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HANDBOOK 


OF   THE 


BOMBAY    PRESIDENCY. 


LONDON  : 
BRADEURV,  AQNEW,   &    CO.,   PRINTERS,  WHITEFRIARS. 


HANDBOOK 


OF   THB 


BOMBAY    PEESIDENCY, 


WITH  AN   ACCOUNT  OP 


BOMBAY     CITY. 


SECOND    EDITION. 

ICOST    CARGFUIXT    BXVISED    ON    THE    SPOT,     AKD    FOS    THE 

HOST    FABT    BEWXITTEN. 


WITH     MAPS    AND     PLAKS. 


LONDON : 

JOHN    MURRAY,  ALBEMARLE   STREET. 

1881. 

[AU  RighU  reserved  J] 


THE   ENGLISH   EDITIONS    OF    MURRAY'S"  HANDBOOKS   MAT    BE    OBTAINED 

OF   THE  FOLLOWING  AGENTS. 

Belgium^  Ilollandy  aiid  Germany, 

BROCKHAUS.— rvriETMEYEB. 
BENDER  &  FONTAINE.— LOFFLER 

—  KOTTER. 
ALCAN. 

HANZ.— ACKKRICANN. — KAISER. 
SCHRAG.— ZEI8ER. 
HABTLEBEN.  —  O.    HECKENAST 

— OSTEATAMM.— BATH. 
CALVE. 

KRAMERS.  — PETBI.--R0BBER8. 
GBUCKEB. — TBVBNEB. 
HETZLER. — NEFF. 
COEN. — SCHIMPFF. 
OEROLD. — ^BRAUMULLER. 
KREIDEL. 


AIX-LA- 

I  MATER. 

LEIPZIG     .... 

CHAPELLE 

MANNHEIM  . . 

AMSTERDAM 

MULLER.— KIRBEROER. 

ANTWERP     . . 

MERTENU. 

METZ 

BADEN-BADEN 

MARX. 

MUNICH    .... 

BERLIN     .... 

ASHER.— MITSCHER  &  ROSTELL. 

KtfRNBERG  .. 

BRUSSELS     . . 

KIESSLING. 

PESTH 

CABLSRUHE   . 

A.  BIELEFELD. 

COLOGNE  .... 

GREVEN.  — DUMONT.—  EISEN. 

PRAGUE    .... 

DRESDEN.... 

BURDACH. — PIEBSON. 

RO'rir.KDAM  . 

FRANKFURT  . 

JtfGEL. 

STRASSBURG  . 

GBATZ 

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STUTTGART  . . 

THE  HAGUE.. 

NIJHOFF. 

TRIESTE    .... 

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MAUKE  SOHNE. 

VIENNA     .    .. 

HEIDELBERG . 

MOHR. 

WIESBADEN. . 

Switzerland, 

bIle    

GEORG.  — AMBERGER. 

NEUCHATEL 

BEBNE 

DALP.— JENT  &  REINERT. 

SCHAFF- 

COIRE 

GRUfiENMANN. 

HA1TSEN    .. 

CONSTANCE    . 

MECK.                            f— H.  GEORG. 

SOLEURE .... 

GENEVA    .... 

MONROE   (mETFORD).— 8AND0Z. 

ST.  GALLEN 

LAUSANNE  .. 

ROUSSY. 

ZURICH     .... 

LUCERNE      . . 

KAISER. 

Jla 

ly- 

BOLOGNA      . . 

ZANICHELLI. 

PARMA      .... 

FLORENCE    .. 

OOODBAN.  — LOEBCHER. 

PISA 

GENOA  

GRONDONA.— ANTOINE  BEUF. 

PERUGIA  .... 

LEGHORN     . . 

MAZZAJOLI. 

ROME     

LUCCA  

BARON. 

MANTUA    

NEGRETTI. 

SIENA    

MILAN 

8ACCHL— DUMOLARD.— HOEPLI. 

TURIN 

MODENA   

VINCENZT  A  ROSSI.         [HOEPLI. 

NAPLES     

BRITISH  LIBRARY  (UORANT).— 

VENICE     

PALERMO     . . 

PEDONE. 

VERONA    .... 

Fi-a 

ivce. 

AMIENS     .  I . . 

CARON.                                      _                  ' 

MARSEILLES  . 

ANGERS    .... 

BARASSl 

NANTES     .... 

AVIGNON 

CLEMENT  ST.  JUST. 

AVRANCHES    . 

ANFRAY.                             [ — FERET. 

NICE 

BORDEAUX  . . 

CHAUMAS.— MtfLLER.— SAUVAT. 

BOULOGNE    .. 

MERRIDEVY. 

ORLEANS  

CAEN     

BOISARD.  — LEGOST.  —  CLERISSti. 

PARIS    

CALAIS 

RIGAUX  CAUX. 

PAU    

CANNES     

ROBAUDY. . 

RHEIMS     

CHI<JEtBOUBG  . 

LECOUFFLET. 

ROUEN 

DIEPPE 

MARAIS. 

ST.  iiTIENNE  . 

DINANT     

008TE. 

ST.  MALO 

DOUAI 

JACQUART.— LEMIlE. 

ST.  QUENTIN  . 

GRENOBLE   .. 

VBLLOT  ET  COMP.                 [BUYS. 

TOULON     .... 

HAVRE 

BOURDIGNON.    —   FOUCHER.  — 

TOULOUSE    .. 

LILLE 

BlkSHIN. 

TOURS  

LYONS  

AYN^.— SCHEURING.— mUra. 

TROYES     

GER8TER.i  ..  ; 

Jhubter.  \2  - 


I  i  p 


JENT.  ^V. , 

HUBEK. 

ORELL  FUESSLI  &   CO.— MEYER 
h  ZELLER.— LEUTHOLD. 


ZANGHIERI. 

NISTBL— JOS.  VANNUCCHI. 
VINCENZ  — BARTELLL 
SPITHOVER.  — PIALE.—  MONAL- 
DINI. — LOE8CHER.— MtfLLER. 
ONORATO  PORRI. 
MAGGI.  —   L.      BEUF.  —   BOCCA 

FR&RES.  — L0E8CHER. 
ONO  ANIA.  — OOEN.— MEINERS. 
MtfNSTSB.  —MEINERS. 

CAMOTN  FRfiRES. — MEUNIER. 

fetipas.— poirier  legros.— 
andrA. 

barbery  fr&rbs.  —  jouola. 
— galignani. 

gatineau. — pesty. 

galignani. — boyveau. 

lafon.  [— giret. 

brissart  binet.  —  geoffroy. 

lebrument. — haulabd. 

DELABUE. 

HUE. 

DOLOY. 

MONGE  ET  VILLAMU8. 

GIMET  ET  COTELLE. 

GEOBGET. 

LALOY.— DUFEY  ROBERT. 

S^in  arid  'Portugal, 

GIBRALTAR    .      R0W8WELL.  I  MADRID    ....      DURAN.— BAILU^BE. 

LISBON     ....      LEWTAS.  1  MALAGA   ....      DE  MOYA. 

Mtissiaf  Stvederif  Denmark^  and,  Norway, 

ODESSA     ...      CAMOIN. 

CHRI8TIANIA       BENNETT. 

STOCKHOLM  SAMSON  &  WALLIN.— FRITZ. 

Ionian  Islands, 

CORFU.. J.   W.  TAYLOR. 


}' 


^^BU™^'         J-WATKINS.— WOLFF. 

MOSCOW  ......      OAUTIKR.— DEUBNER.— LANG. 

Malta, 

CRITIEN.— WATSON.— <5ALLEJA, 

Greece, 

ATHENS KARL  WILDB£RG.  | 


CoTistantiruyplc, 

WICK  &  WEISS. 

Alexandria  and  Cairo, 

ALEXANDRIA  BOOK  CO. 


India, 

CALCUTTA....      IHACKER,  SPINK   &  CO.  )       BOMBAY THACKER  &  CO.  j  LIMITED. 


\ 


TO 


THE    GREAT   INDIAN    STATESMAN    AND   TRIED    FRIEND    OF 

THE    BRITISH    GOVERNMENT, 


HIS     EXCELLENCY     THE 


NtWAB  MUKHTARU'D  DAULAH  SIR  SAlAR  JANG  BAHADUR, 

G.CtS.L) 


BY  THE  AUTHOR, 


EDWARD   B.  EASTWIC^-: 

Loudon,  Avgitst,  1880. 


PREFACE  TO  THE  SECOND  EDITION. 


In  this  Second  Edition  the  Bombay  Handbook  has  been 
so  completely  re-written  that  it  might  fairly  be  called  a  new 
book  rather  than  a  new  edition.  All  the  most  important 
places  in  the  Bombay  Presidency  have  been  recently  visited 
by  the  Author,  and  in  particular  the  province  of  K&thiaw&d, 
"which  is  very  difficult  of  access  at  present  to  the  ordinary 
traveller,  has  been  thoroughly  examined.  When  the  Branch 
Railways  now  in  course  of  construction  in  K&thiaw&d  are 
completed,  the  traveller  will  be  able  to  visit  the  temples  of 
Shatrunjay  and  Qim&r  with  comparative  facility,  but,  till  then, 
it  would  require  more  time  than  the  ordinary  traveller  could 
afford  to  reach  those  remarkable  edifices,  and,  as  matters  at 
present  stand,  it  would  be  necessary  to  carry  provisions  and 
wine,  as  there  are  no  hotels  and  but  few  travellers'  bangl&s 
where  a  mess-man  is  to  be  found. 

The  Author  has  to  express  his  thanks  for  hospitality  and 
valuable  assistance  rendered  by  H.E.  the  late  Governor,  Sir 
Richard  Temple;  the  Acting-Governor,  Mr.  Lionel  Ashbumer ; 
Mr.  G.  Hart,  Private  Secretary  to  the  Governor;  Colonel 
"Westropp,  Political  Agent  in  S&wantwddi;  Mr.  Arthur 
Crawford,  C.S.,  late  Envoy  at  Goa,  and  Mr.  Norman  Oliver ; 
Mr.  Waddington,  C.S.,  Collector  ofBelg&on;  Mr.  Elphinston, 
C.S.,  Collector  of  Dh&rwdd;  Mr.  Robert  Chrystall,  residing  at 
Gadak ;  Mr.  Gurshidapa  Virbasapa,  Mdmlatdar  of  Gadak ; 


VI  PRKPACB. 

Mr.  C.  Eamchandra  Bhaviya,  M&mlatd^r  of  Eon ;  Colonel 
Parr,  Political  Agent  at  Kolh&ptir ;  Mr.  W.  Ferris,  Assistant 
Political  Agent  at  Kolh&pur,  whose  accurate  knowledge  of 
Persian  enabled  him  to  decipher  the  inscriptions  at  that  place; 
Mr.  MacTier,  C.S.,  Collector  of  S&t&a ;  Mr.  Nuneham,  C.S., 
Judge  of  Pund;  Mr.  P.  S.  MelviU,  C.S.I.,  Eesident  at 
Baroda;  H.H.  the  G^ekw&d  and  Sir  M^hava  R&o,  K.C.S.I., 
Diw&n  of  Baroda ;  Dr.  Johnston,  civil  surgeon  at  Bharuch ; 
General  Schneider,  C.S.I.,  Commanding  at  Ahmad  &b&d,  and 
his  son  Mr.  C.  Schneider ;  Mr.  Prendergast  Walsh,  Assistant 
Political  Agent  in  Kdthiawad ;  H.H.  the  Thakor  of  Rajkot ; 
Colonel  Barton,  Political  Agent  in  Kathiaw^d;  Mr.  DhanjI 
Shdh,  Magistrate  at  Rajkot ;  H.H.  the  Thdkor  of  Gondal ; 
H.H.  the  N6wdb  of  Jun^arh ;  Mr.  H^ji  'Abdu  'I  Latif,  Wahi(s 
wad£r  of  Viriwal ;  Major  Scott,  Assistant  Resident  at  Dw&ka; 
Colonel  Reeves,  Political  Agent  in  Kachh ;  H.H.  the  R^o  of 
Kachh ;  the  Diwdn  of  Kachh ;  H.H.  the  J6m  of  Nowanagar ; 
Mr.  McCleland,  engineer  to  H.H.  the  Jdm,  the  Diwin  of 
Nowanagar ;  Major  Wodehouse,  Assistant  Political  Agent  in 
Kithiawdd;  H.H.  the  Th^kor  of  P^lit&ia;  H.H.  the  Thsikor 
of  Bhaunagar;  the  Diw^n  of  Bhaunagar;  Mr.  Birdwood, 
C.S.,  Judge  of  Surat ;  Mr.  Theodore  Hope,  C.S.,  Collector  of 
Surat ;  Mr.  Waliu  *llah,  of  the  Translator's  Office,  Bombay ; 
Mr.  Lestock  Reid,  C.S.,  Revenue  Commissioner,  N.  Division, 
Bombay. 

The  Author's  especial  thanks  are  due  also  to  Mr.  Mathew, 
Agent,  and  Mr.  Duxbury,  Traffic  Manager  of  the  B.B.C.I. 
Railway,  and  Mr.  Bamett,  Agent  for  the  G.I.P.  Railway. 
Also  to  Mr.  Naurozji  Faridunji,  of  Bombay. 


CONTENTS. 


Section  I. 
INTRODUCTORY   INFORMATION. 


§  a.  Season  fob  yisiting 
Bombay 

§  h.  Outfit         .... 

§  c.  Hints  as  to  Dbess,  Diet, 
Health  and  ^om- 
FOBT     .... 

§  d.  Routes  to  Bombay   .    . 

1.  Voyage    from    South- 

ampton through   the 
Suez  Canal 

2.  Route      Overland      by 

Venice  or  Brindisi 

§  e.  Ebas  .... 

Table    of    Festivals    and 
Fasts      .... 
§/.  Chbonological  Tables 
Hindii  Chronology  before 

the  Christian  Era    .    , 
Governors  of  Bombay  and 
dates  of  their  acces- 
sion   .... 
Mar^tha  Dynasties       .     . 
Anhaiwdda     Dynasty    of 

Gujar&t 
Solankhi  Dynasty  .       .    . 
Bhigela  Dynasty 


PAQB 

2 
2 


3 
4 


9 
10 

II 
15 

16 


16 
17 

19 
19 
20 


Farruldif  Dynasty  of 
Khdndesh        .        .    . 

Kings  of  Gujardt 

'Adil  Shdhi  Dynasty  of 
BijApilr    .        .        .    . 

Ni;;dm  Shdhl  Dynasty  of 
Al^madnagar 

Governors  and  Viceroys 
of  Goa 

Archbishops  of  Goa      .    . 

Remarkable  Events  con- 
necting India  with 
Europe 

Captains  of  Bassin        .    . 
§  g.  Tables  of  Money    . 

Tables    of     Weights     and 

Measures         .        .    . 

§  /{.  Castes   and  Tbibes  in 

THE  Bombay  Pbesi- 

dency 

Skeleton  Routes  .        .    . 
§  /.  Languages  of  the  Bom- 
bay Pbesidency   .    . 

Vocabularies  and  Dia- 
logues     .        .        .    . 

Indian  Words  used  in  this 
Volume 


PAOK 


20 
20 

20 

21 

21 
24 


2o 

39 
40 

40 


42 
48 

49 

51 

HI 


Section  II. 

BOMBAY  CITY. 


PAGE 

113 
113 

113 
114 
114 
123 


\8t  Bay. 
Harbour  of  Bombay. 
Landing  Places 
Hotels  and  Clubs 
Conveyances . 
Public  Offices     . 
The  Cathedral 

2'nd  Day, 
The  Town  Hall  and  Mint      .    .  121 
Custom  House  and  Docks  .  126 

Cotton  Screws      ,         .        .    .  128 
Bassoon  Dock     ....  128 
Koli&ba      Memorial       Church, 
Cemetery  and  Lighthouses    .  129 


Catholic  Chapel 
St.  Andrew's  Kirk 


PAOS 

.    .  132 
.  132 

Zrd  Day. 
Alexandra  Native  Girls'  College  132 
Police  Court     .        .        .        .132 
Sir  Jamshldji  Jijibhdi's    Pdrsi 

Benevolent  Institution  .  .132 
School  of  Design  .  ,  .  .  133 
St.  Xavier's  School  .  .  .133 
New  Elphinstone  High  School .  133 
Gokald^  Hospital  .  .  .134 
Dw^kan^th's  Temple  .  .  .  134 
House  of  Correction  .  .  .134 
The  Workhouse     .        .        .    .  134 


TUl 

Section  II.— 

ith  Day, 
Elphinstone  College 
Victoria  Gardens  and  Museum 
Christ's  Church,  Bykallah 
Grant  Medical  College 
Jamshfdjl  Hospital 
Jamshidji  DharmsdU 
Scotch  Mission  School 
Nul  Market 
Girgdon  Cemeteries 


CONTENTS. 


Bombay  Qm—contlmed, 

6th  Day,  page 

Government  House  at  Malabar 

HiU 139 

Valkeshwar 140 

Towers  of  Silence       .        .        .  141 
Parsi  Dhannsdld    .        .        .    .  143 

Shooting 143 

Railways  and  Steamers         .    .144 


FAGB 

134 
135 
135 
136 
136 
136 
137 
137 
137 


Wi  Day. 

Elphinstone  Dock       .        .  .  137 

Mazagdoii 138 

St.  Peter's  Church,  Mazagdou  .  138 

Government  House  at  Parell  .  138 

European  Cemetery  at  Parell  .  139 

Kurla  Cotton  Mills    .        .  .139 


Sights  in  the  Vicinity  of  Bom- 
bay          144 

Elephanta 144 

Vihdr  Waterworks  .  .152 
Montpezir  Caves  .  .  .  153 
Kdnhari  Caves  .  .154 
Bassin 158 


ROUTES. 


Route  PAGE 

1  Bombay  to  Mdtherdn   .        .  162 

2  Bombay  to  Thdnd,  Kalydn 

and  Amarndth    .        .    .  166 

3  Bombay  to  Khanddld    and 

Kdrli        .        .  .  .170 

4  Kdrli  to  Pund       .  .  .177 

5  Pund  to  Mahdbaleshwar  .  .194 

6  Pund  to  Sholdpiir  .  .  205 

7  Sholdpiir  to  Bijdpiir  .  .  208 

8  Bombay  to  Goa    .  .  .217 

9  Goa  to  Vingorleii      .  .  .  230 

10  Sdwantwddi  by  the  Amboli 

Ghdt  to  Belgdon  .     .  230 

11  Belgdon     to     Kittiir     and 

Dhdrw^dd    .        .        .     .  237 

12  Dhdrwdd  to  Hubli,  Gadak, 

and  Lakkundi     .        .     .  241 

13  Gadak  to  Bdddml  .        .248 

14  Belgdon  to  Gotiir  and  the 

Falls  of  Gokdk        .        .  253 

15  Gotiir     to     Kolhdpiir    and 

Panhdld  .        .        .  .258 

16  Kolhdpiir  to  Sdtdrd .        .  .  269 

17  Sdtdrd  to  Mahdbaleshwar  .  275 

18  Bombay  to  Ndshik  .        .  .  276 

19  Ndshik  to  J^balpiir      .  .  286 

20  Ndndgdon  to  Eliira .        .  .  290 

21  Ndndgdoii  to  Al^madnagar, 

Junnar,  and  Pund      .    .  290 


and 


PA  OB 


Route 

22  Khandwah    to    Indiir 

Mdhu  (Mhow)     .        .     .  305 

23  Bombay  to  Surat  .  309 

24  Surat  to  Baroda        .        .    .  320 

25  Baroda  to  Champanir    and 

Pawaga^h        .        .        .  324 

26  Bhanich  to  Dabhoi  .        .     .  327 

27  Baroda  to  A^maddbad  .  332 

28  A^jmaddbdd  to  Wadhwdn     .  346 

29  Wadhwdn  to  Rdjkot     .        .  348 

30  Bajkot    to     Jiindgadh    and 

Giradr     .        .     '  ,        .351 

31  Jiindgadh    to    Virdwal  and 

Somndth  .        .        .359 

32  Virdwal  to  Dwdrka  .        .     .  365 

33  Dwdrka  to  B6t      .        .        .  368 

34  Dwdrka  to  Mdndavl  and  Bhuj  370 

35  Mdndavi  to  Nowanagar  .    .  373 

36  Nowanagar  to  Bdjkot)  Son- 

gadh,       Pdlitdna       and 
Shatrunjay      .        .        .376 

37  Songadh    to    Wallah     and 

Bhaunagar      .        .        .  379 

38  Bhaunagar  to  Surat         .    .  384 

39  Bombay  to  Kardchl  and  Kotri  384 

40  A^maddbdd  to  Mount  Abii 

Road       .        .        .        .400 
40a  Bombay    and  Ahmedabad 
to  Mount    Aboo    (Abu), 
Rajputana-Malwa  line .  iOOa 


LIST   OF    MAPS   AND    PLANS.. 


Plan  of  Bombay    .              .113 
Map  of  Environs  of  Bom- 
BAIL 144 


Plan  op  BijApiJr 
Map    of    India 
Presidency) 


.    .  209 
(Bombay 
. .  at  the  end 


I 


HANDBOOK  FOR  TRAVELLERS 

IN  THK 

BOMBAY    PBESIDENCY. 


SECTION  L 

INTRODUCTOEY  INFORMATION. 

CONTENTS.  PAGE 

§  a.  Season  for  visiting  Bombay 2 

6  6.  Outfit 2 

$  e.  Hints  as  to  Dress,  Diet,  Health,  and  Comfort       .  3 
^d.  Routes  to  Bombay: 

1.  Voyage  from  Southampton  through  Suez  Canal  4 

2.  Route  Overland  by  Venice  or  Brindisi        .    .  9 
§  e.  Eras 10 

Table  of  Festivals  and  Fasts 11 

§/.  Chronological  Tables .15 

H1ND1&  Chronology  before  the  Christian  Era      .  15 

Governors  of  Bombay  and  Dates  of  accession     .  16 

MarXtha  Dynasties 17 

AnhalwXdX  Dynasty  of  GujarXt     .  .19 

Sol ANKHf  Dynasty ID 

BhAgela  Dynasty 20 

Parrukhi  Dynasty  of  KhAndesh         .        .        .    .  20 

Kings  of  GujarXt .20 

'Adil  Snlnf  Dynasty  of  BfjXpijR         .        .        .     .  20 

Nizam  Sninf  Dynasty  of  Ahmadnagar    ...  21 

Governors  and  Viceroys  of'Goa         .        ,        .     .  21 

Archbishops  op  Goa 24 

Remarkable  Events  connecting  India  with  Europe  25 

Captains  of  BassIn 39 

§  g.  Tables  of  Money :  40 

Tables  op  Weights  and  Measures  ....  40 

§  h.  Castes  in  the  Bombay  Presidency          .        .        .     .  42 

Skeleton  Routes 48 

§  i.  Languages  op  the  Bombay  Presidency   .        .        .    .  49 

Vocabularies  and  Dialogues 51 

Indian  Words  used  in  this  Volume   .        .        .    .  Ill 

[^<w»6a2^— 1880.1                                                                         ^  / 


INTBODUCTION :  SEASON  FOR  visiTixG  bomdAy.      Sect.  L 


§  a.   SEASON   FOR  VISITING   BOMBAY. 

It  is  as  yet  undecided  whether  the  Province  of  Sindh  is  to  be  in- 
cluded in  the  Bombay  Presidency, .  or  to  be  assigned  to  the  Lieu- 
tenant Governorship  of  the  Panjdb.  In  the  former  case  the  Bombay 
Presidency  extends  from  N.  lat.  28°  42'  to  about  N.  lat.  J  4®,  where 
is  the  S.  extremity  of  the  Collectorate  of  Dhdrwdd,  and  from  E. 
long.  66°  43'  to  W.  long.  76°  20',  the  E.  extremity  of  'Khdndesh,  and 
over  this  wide  territory  the  climate  varies  very  considerably.  Even 
if  Sindh  should  be  annexed  to  the  Panj&b  as  regards  its  civil  and 
political  administration,  it  is  almost  certain  that  it  will  still  be 
occupied  by  Bombay  troops,  and  for  this  reason  it  wiU  be  regarded 
in  these  "ptnges  as  belonging  to  Bombay.  We  have,  then,  in  Sindh 
a  climate  ot  intense  heat  from  March  to  November,  a  climate  re- 
sembling that  of  the  sultry  deserts  of  Africa.  The  temperature 
decreases  as  the  sea  is  approached,  so  that  at  Kardchi  the  heat  is 
never  unbearable.  At  Haidardbdd  during  the  6  hottest  months  of 
the  year  the  mean  maximum  of  temperature  in  the  shade  is  given 
at  98°  5',  but  in  Upper  Sindh  the  thermometer  sometimes  registers 
130°  in  the  shade.  But  in  the  winter  months  the  cold  is  such  in 
Upper  Sindh  that  thin  ice  is  sometimes  seen.  In  Kachh  and 
Gujardt  the  heat  is  less,  but  still  very  great ;  in  the  other  Collec- 
torates,  and  especially  the  2  most  to  the  S.,  Belgdon  and  Dharwdd, 
the  climate  is  much  more  moderate,  and  at  Puna  and  Ndshik  and 
other  places  above  the  Gha^s,  except  Shol&pdr,  the  heat  is  never 
very  oppressive.  At  Mahdbaleshwar,  again,  rawagadh,  Gimdr,  and 
other  mountain  peaks,  the  cold  is  often  severe.  It  will  be  neces- 
sary, therefore,  for  the  traveller  to  take  warm  clothing  with  him,  as 
well  as  the  lightest  possible.  So  provided,  he  may  visit  Bombay  at 
any  period  of  the  year,  but  the  best  time  for  proceeding  there  is  the 
end  of  October,  when,  if  he  is  not  very  delicate,  he  may  stop  quite 
well  till  May,  employing  April  in  visiting  places  above  the  Ghats. 
The  rain  at  Bombay  itself  and  in  the  Konkan  or  low  country  below 
the  Gh&^s,  and  at  Mahdbaleshwar,  amounts  to  between  200  and  300 
inches,  and  travelling,  except  on  the  railways,  is  there  nearly  impos- 
sible in  the  rainy  season.  Above  the  Ghdts,  and  in  Kachli  and 
Edthiawdd,  where  the  rainfall  is  much  less,  travelling  is  far  from 
being  difficult  or  even  disagreeable. 

§  h,   OUTFIT. 

Chills  in  India  are  most  dangerous,  and  the  traveller  must  there- 
fore provide  himself  with  warm  underclothing.  He  will  also  do  well 
to  taKe  mosquito  curtains  with  him,  wherever  he  goes,  with  a  light 
Cyprus  bed,  which  weighs  only  28lbs.,  but  should  the  bedstead  be 
thought  inconveniently  heavy,  the  curtains  at  all  events  are  indispens- 
able, as,  to  say  nothing  of  escaping  the  being  annoyed  by  mosquitoes, 
flies,  rats,  scorpions,  and  snakes,  the  traveller  will  be  defended  by 
the  curtains  from  wind-strokes  and  malaria.  A  list  of  things  for  an 
<>utfit  will  be  found  in  the  "  Handbook  of  Madras,*'  at  page  3,  but 
to  it  may  be  added  white  shoes  and  high  boots  of  savwar  skin 


Sect.  I.  HrxTS  as  to  dresa,  etc.  3 

or  other  light- coloured  material  for  use  in  the  scorching  glare  of 
the  sun.  Si^ectaclef,  of  neutral  tint,  and  a  veil  to  protect  the 
eyes  from  dust  and  from  the  attacks  of  bees,  are  also  very  necessar)'. 
These  troublesome  insects  have  caused  severe  injuries  and  even 
death  to  travellers  at  the  Marble  Bocks,  Eltira,  Ajanta,  and  the 
Nilgiris.  To  be  quite  safe  from  their  attacks,  leather  gauntlets 
reacliing  half-way  to  the  elbow,  and  a  light  wire  mask  to  protect  the 
back  of  the  head  and  neck,  are  recjuired.  As  the  excessive  perspim- 
tion  destroys  kid  gloves  in  a  smgle  wearing,  it  will  be  wise  to 
provide  oneself  with  cotton,  silk,  or  Swedish  gloves,  and  those  who 
wish  to  shoot  on  the  W.  Coast  should  have  gaiters  steeped  in 
tobacco  juice  to  keep  off  leeches.  Sleeping  drawers  should  be  made 
to  cover  the  feet,  and  as  the  washermen  break  off  or  destroy  buttons 
on  underclothing,  it  will  be  well  to  use  studs.  All  clothing  sent 
in  advance  of  the  owner  to  India  will  have  to  pay  duty,  as  will 
firearms  that  have  not  been  in  India  before,  or  which  nave  been 
removed  from  India  for  more  than  a  year.  In  any  case  the  owner 
will  have  to  sign  a  certificate  regarding  them  before  they  can  be 
removed  from  the  Custom  House.  There  is  a  sort  of  counterpane 
called  a  nzdif  which  can  be  bought  anywhere  in  India,  and  is  cheap, 
warm,  and  extremely  comfortable. 

§  C.   HINTS  AS   TO   DRESS,   DIET,   HEALTH,    AND   COMPORT. 

There  are  certain  localities  in  India  which  are  highly  malarious 
at  all  seasons,  and  should  the  traveller  find  it  necessary  to  pass 
through  them,  he  must  arrange  matters  so  as  to  traverse  them  in 
the  dav  time,  and  must  on  no  account  pass  the  night  there.  Neg- 
lect ot  this  precaution  caused  the  death  of  Lord  Hastings,  who  ia 
buried  at  Tanjur.  On  amving  at  such  places  the  traveller  should 
inquire  what  is  the  best  season  for  traversing  them,  and  he  liad 
better  defer  his  passage  to  a  favourable  time  of  year  rather  than 
risk  a  fever  which  has  on  too  many  occasions  provedfatal.  The 
temptation  to  wade  through  swampy  ground  in  pursuit  of  snipe  and 
ducks  is  very  great,  but  almost  certainly  results  in  fever. 

The  season  for  shooting  tigers  and  other  wild  beasts  is  in  the 
hottest  time  of  the  year,  when  these  animals  resort  to  any  place 
where  they  can  procure  water.  On  such  occasions  the  sports- 
man must  provide  himself  with  a  solar  hat  of  the  best  description. 
A  pith  hat  shaped  like  a  coalheaver's,  with  a  ventilator,  and  a 
turban  so  twisted  as  not  to  prevent  the  ventilation,  with  an 
umbrella  thickly  covered  with  white  cloth,  may  prevent  a  coup 
de  soldi.  Whisky  and  water  is  the  safest  drinK,  or  the  juice  of 
the  cocoa  nut,  which  is  extremely  refreshing,  and  is  a  favourite 
beverage  with  old  Indian  sportsmen.  Rice,  or  Kdnjl,  or  the  juice 
of  fresh  limes,  with  water  that  has  been  boiled  and  filtered,  is 
also  a  safe  drink.  Oysters  and  prawn  curry  should  be  avoided, 
as  also  in  general  tinned  provisions,  particularly  lobster  and  salmon. 
To  Hindus  the  eating  ot  beef  is  an  abomination,  as  the  eating  of 
pork,  ham,  and  bacon  is  to  the  Muhammadans,  and  whatever  they 
may  say,   Indian  servants  will  certainly  resent  their  being  obliged 

B  2 


4  INTRODUCTION  :    ROUTES  TO   BOMBAY.  Sect.  I. 

to  preppre  those  meats  or  to  carry  them  about.  Bathinj^  in  cold 
water,  particularly  wheu  fatigued  or  heated  by  exercise,  is  highly 
dangerous,  as  is  £uso  to  sit  in  a  draught  after  a  bath.  The  deaths 
of  Bishop  Heber  and  Lord  Hobart,  and  of  many  others,  are  decisive 
proofs  of  this  fact.  Cotton  shirts  and  sheets  are  preferable  to  linen, 
being  less  likely  to  give  chills. 

§  d.    ROUTES  TO   BOMBAY. 

1.  Voyage  from  Southampton  through  the  Suez  Canal. 

The  comfort  of  the  voyage  depends  very  much  on  the  size 
and  build  of  the  ship.  As  a  general  rule  the  largest  ships  are 
best,  and  amongst  these  the  "  Deccan "  may  be  pointed  out  as  the 
most  comfortable,  being  unusually  steady  in  heavy  weather,  and 
having  a  poop,  so  that  the  saloons  have  their  ports  always  open,  even 
during  gales.  In  going  through  the  Red  Sea  to  India  the  starboard 
cabins  are  best,  and  those  on  the  port  side  on  the  return  voyage. 
On  embarking  it  will  be  well  to  secure  a  seat  at  table  as  near  tlie 
captain's  as  possible.  This  is  done  hj  placing  a  card  in  a  plate. 
The  fare  by  this  route  is  £68,  exclusive  of  charges  for  all  drink- 
ables except  tea,  coffee,  lime  juice,  and  water.  It  is  usual  to  give 
£\  as  a  fee  to  the  cabin  steward,  and  lOs.  to  the  one  that  waits  on 
you  at  table.  The  doctor  also  is  paid  by  those  that  put  themselves 
under  his  care.  To  those  who  have  not  seen  Gibraltar,  Malta,  and 
the  Suez  Canal,  the  voyage  is  not  without  objects  of  interest.  Be- 
tween the  Channel  and  these  places  there  is  seldom  much  to  be 
seen.  The  first  place  sighted  is  Cape  La  Hogue  in  the  Island  of 
Ouessant,  on  the  W.  coast  of  Cotentin  in  France,  off  which,  on 
May  19,  1692,  Admiral  Bossell,  afterwards  Earl  of  Orford,  defeated 
De  Tourville  and  sank  or  burned  16  men  of  war.  There  is  a 
lighthouse  on  Cape  La  Hogue,  but  as  the  coast  is  very  dangerous, 
and  fogs  often  prevail,  many  vessels  have  been  wrecked  here.  Here 
begins  the  Bay  of  Biscay,  which  stretches  for  360  m.  to  Cape  Finis- 
terre  (finis  terra;),  a  promontory  on  the  W.  coast  of  Galicia  m  Spain, 
in  N.  lat.  42°  54'  and  W.  long.  9°  20',  off  which  Anson  defeatecl  the 
French  fleet  in  174?.  North  wind  usually  prevails  on  this  coast, 
which  is  favourable  for  the  outward  voyage.  The  next  land  sighted 
will  probably  be  the  Berlingas,  or  Berlings  as  English  sailors  usually 
call  these  dangerous  rocky  islands,  on  one  of  which  is  a  lighthouse. 
These  lie  40  m.  N.  of  Lisbon,  and  after  them  Cape  Roca  will  probably 
be  seen  a  few  m.  N.  of  Lisbon.  Next  Cape  St.  Vincent  will  be  made 
in  N.  lat.  37°  3'  and  W.  long.  8°  59',  at  the  S.W.  comer  of  the  Por- 
tuguese province  Algarve,  off  which  Sir  G.  Rodney,  on  January  16th, 
1780,  defeated  the  Spanish  fleet,  and  Sir  J.  Jervis,  on  February  14th, 
1797,  won  his  earldom  and  Nelson  the  Bath  by  again  defeating 
the  Spaniards.  On  this  occasion  Nelson's  ship  captured  the  "S. 
Josef  and  the  "  S.  Nicholas,"  of  112  guns  each.  This  Cape  has  a 
fort  upon  it,  and  the  white  cliffs,  more  than  100  ft.  high,  are  honey- 
combed bv  the  waves.  Just  before  entering  the  Straits  of  Gibraltar 
Cape  Trafalgar  will  also  probably  be  seen  in  N.  lat.  36°  9',  W.  long. 


Sect.  I, 


VOYAGE  FROM  SOUTHAMPTON. 


6°  1',  immortalized  by  Nelson's  victory  of  October  21st,  1805. 
Gibraltar  comes  next  in  sight,  and  the  distance  between  it  and 
the  remaining  halting  places  will  be  seen  in  the  following  table  : — 


Names  of  Places. 


Southampton  to  Gibraltar 
Gibraltar  to  Malta 
Malta  to  Port  Said     . 
Port  Said  to  Suez,  about 
Suez  to  Aden 
Aden  to  Bombay    . 


Miles. 

Totals. 

1151  ) 

981  V 

3050  ^ 

918) 

100) 

> 

1306  > 

3069' 

1664) 

General  Total. 


6119 


The  time  occupied  between  Southampton  and  Gibraltar  averages 
5  days,  from  Gibraltar  to  Malta  4^,  from  Malta  to  Port  Said  4. 
In  the  Suez  Canal  everything  depends  on  the  vessels  not  grounding. 
Large  steamers  draw  23  or  24  ft.,  and  as  the  Canal  is  only  25  ft. 
deep  there  is  great  risk  of  detention.  Thus  the  "  Kaisar  i  Hind  "  was 
detained  5  days  in  1879,  and  had  to  unload  700  tons  of  cargo  before 
a  tug  could  pull  her  off;  however,  if  the  channel  were  properly 
buoyed,  and  if  other  careful  arrangements  were  made,  such  accidents 
would  be  avoided. 

The  steamer  stops  so  short  a  time  at  Gibraltar,  Malta,  and  Aden, 
that  those  places  cannot  be  properly  inspected.  In  the  Handbook  of 
the  Madras  Presidency,  Section  I.,  ^nll  be  found  a  full  account  of 
them,  to  which  reference  may  be  made.  It  is  here  only  necessary  to 
say  that  Gibraltar  was  taken  by  the  Arabs  in  711  a.d.,  and  the  place 
got  its  name  from  their  general,  Tdrik,  from  whom  it  was  called  Jabal 
al  Tdrik=Gibraltar,  the  Mountain  of  Tdrik.  In  1309  it  was  captured 
by  Ferdinand  IV.  of  Spain,  and  recaptured  in  1334  by  the  Moors, 
and  by  the  Spaniards  in  1462.  In  1704  the  English,  aided  by  the 
Austrians  ana  Dutch,  and  commanded  by  Sir  G.  Rooke,  stormed  tlie 
place  on  July  24th.  Since  then  it  has  repulsed  3  attacks,  the  first  by 
the  French  and  Spaniards  under  Marshal  Tess^,  who  lost  10,000  men  ; 
the  next  by  the  Spaniards  in  1727,  when  they  lost  5000  men ;  and 
the  last  on  July  11th,  1779,  when  the  Spaniards  besieged  it.  This 
siege  lasted  till  March  12th,  1783.  The  highest  point  of  the  Rock  of 
Gibraltar  is  O'Hara's  Tower,  which  rises  to  1408  ft.  The  short  stay 
of  the  steamer  will  not  permit  a  passenger  to  do  more  than  drive  to 
Europa  Point.  He  will  land  at  the  new  Mole  and  drive  up  Main 
Street  as  far  as  the  Alameda,  where  the  band  plays.  In  1814,  Governor 
Sir  George  Don  made  it  from  a  parade  ground  into  a  garden,  and  it 
is  now  lovely  with  flowers  and  shrubs.  There  is  a  column  with  a 
bust  of  the  Duke  of  Wellington.  Observe  also  a  bust  of  General 
Elliott,  the  hero  of  the  great  siege.  In  the  Main  Street  excellent 
gloves  and  silk  ties,  as  well  as  lace,  may  be  bought  cheap.  At  the 
Garrison  Librarj'  is  a  model  of  the  Rock,  which  shows  every  house  in 
Gibraltai'.  Half  a  m.  from  the  landing-place  the  Cathedral  will  be 
passed.  It  is  worth  a  visit.  The  Governor's  house,  called  the  Convent, 
because  it  once  belonged  to  the  Franciscans,  is  in  South  Port  Street. 

On  the  way  to  Maltn,  Algiers  is  sometimes  seen  stretching  in  the 


6  INTRODUCTION  :    ROUTES  TO   BOMBAY.  Sect.  I. 

pliape  uf  a  triangle  fi'om  its  base  on  the  sea  to  its  a^jex  on  the  higher 
ground.  Probably  also  Cape  Fez  will  be  sighted,  as  also  the  jjromon- 
tory  of  the  Seven  Capes,  (5ape  Bon,  the  most  N.  part  of  Africa,  and 
the  island  of  PanteUaria,  the  ancient  Cossyra.  It  is  8  m.  long,  vol- 
canic, and  rises  to  more  than  2000  ft.  The  Maltese  group  of  islands 
consists  of  Gozo  to  the  W.,  Malta  to  the  E.,  and  Cumino  in  the  Straits 
of  Freghi  between  the  other  two.  St.  Paul's  Bay  is  in  Malta  island, 
3  m.  E.  of  the  Straits,  and  thought  to  be  the  place  where  the  ship- 
wreck mentioned  in  the  Acts  tooK  place.  The  harbour  of  Malta  is 
9^  m.  E.  of  the  Straits  of  Freghi,  and  consists  of  2  principal  ports, 
Marsamuscet  on  the  W.  and  the  Great  Port  on  the  E.  The  entrance 
to  Marsamuscet  is  protected  by  Fort  Tigne  on  the  W.  and  Fort  St. 
Elmo  on  the  E.  The  harbour  is  not  quite  1  j  m.  long  from  N. 
to  S.,  and  J  of  a  m.  broad  where  broadest  from  E.  to  W.  On  the  W. 
side,  at  about  300  yds.  from  Fort  Tigne,  is  a  peninsula,  on  the  S.  side 
of  which  is  the  Lazaretto,  protected  by  Fort  ManoeL  Then  follows 
a  bay,  then  anotherpeninsula,  and  then  another  bay,  in  which  is  the 
Hydraulic  Dock.  The  E.  shore  of  Marsamuscet  is  a  peninsula  forti- 
fied on  all  sides,  and  containing  the  town  of  Valetta  on  the  N.  and 
Floriana  on  the  S.  The  town  is  a  parallelogram,  traversed  from  N. 
to  S.  by  the  following  streets : — Marsamuscetto  on  the  extreme  W., 
and  then  as  one  goes  to  the  E.  by  Ponente,  Zecca,  Fomi,  Stretta, 
Reale,  Federico,  Mercanti,  St.  Paolo,  St.  Ursula,  and  LevantL 
Steamers  generally  lie  at  the  S.  end  of  the  harbour,  for  the  conve- 
nience of  coaling.  All  passengers  desire  to  escape  from  the  dust  of 
this  necessary  but  most  disagreeable  operation.  A  boat  costs  !«., 
and  a  row  of  a  few  hundred  yds.  will  take  one  to  the  landing-place 
at  Valetta,  commonly  known  as  the  Nix  Mangiare  Stairs — "  nothing 
to  eat," — so  styled  from  the  beggars  that  wayLiy  one  on  the  steps. 
These  steps  are  rather  fatiguing,  and  the  task  is  rendered  the  more 
disagreeable  by  the  odours  that  accompany  the  ascent.  Those  who 
dislike  walking  may  get  a  cab  at  the  top  of  the  steps.  It  must  be 
said  that  the  cabs  are  not  altogether  safe,  as  the  back  sometimes  falls 
out  and  wheels  come  off ;  and  as  the  coachmen  drive  at  a  great  rate 
over  the  hard  stones,  down  steep  pitches,  and  round  turnings  at  right 
angles,  accidents  are  not  unfrequent.  The  traveller  will  perhaps  like 
to  go  first  to  the  P.  and  O.'s  Agent  in  Strada  Mercanti.  Between 
that  street  and  Strada  Keale,  almost  exactly  in  the  centre  of  the 
town,  is  the  Palace,  and  close  to  it  the  Treasury,  the  Armoury,  and 
just  to  the  S.,  St.  John's  Church,  which  are  the  principal  things  to  be 
seen.  Dumsford's  Hotel  is  opposite  to  part  of  St.  John's  Cathedral. 
Other  hotels  are  the  Imperial,  Cambridge,  Croce  di  Malta,  and  Angle- 
terre.  Close  to  Dumsford's  is  the  statue  of  Antone  Vilhena,  a  Por- 
tuguese Grand  Master  of  the  Knights  of  St.  John.  The  floor  of  St 
John's  Church  is  paved  with  slabs  bearing  the  arms  of  knights  in- 
ten-ed  in  the  church.  The  Ist  chapel  on  the  rt.  has  a  picture  by 
Caravaggio  of  the  beheading  of  John  the  Baptist.  The  next  chapel 
belongea  to  the  Portuguese,  and  has  a  bronze  monument  to  Grand 
Master  Manoel  dc  Vilhena.  The  3ixl  is  the  Spanish  Chapel,  the  4th 
that  of  the  Provengtils.  In  the  5th,  sacred  to  the  Virgin,  are  kept 
the  to>vn  keys,  taken  from  the  Turks.      Tlie  Ist  chapel  on  the  1.  is 


Sect.  I.  MALTA — THE  GREAT   PORT — SUEZ  CANAL.  T 

I. 

the  saciisty,  the  2nd  that  of  the  Austrians,  the  3id  that  of  the  Italians. 
In  the  4th  or  French  Chapel  is  the  tomb  of  a  son  of  Louis  Philippe, 
deceased  in  1808.  The  5th  chapel  belonged  to  the  Bavarians,  and 
from  it  a  staircase  descends  to  the  crypt,  vmere  is  the  tomb  of  L'Isle 
Adam,  the  first  Qrand  Master  who  ruled  in  Malta.  The  tomb  of  La 
Valette,  from  whom  the  town  is  called,  is  also  in  this  crypt.  The 
Palace  contains  pictures  of  Queen  Victoria,  George  IIL,  George  IV., 
Louis  XIV.  by  L'Etrec,  Louis  XV.,  the  Duke  of  Bavaria,  L'Isle 
Adam,  and  La  Valette.  The  Armoury  is  full  of  interesting  relics ; 
in  it  are  the  original  deed  granted  to  the  Knights  of  St.  John  by 
Pascal  II.  in  1126,  and  the  deed  when  they  left  &odes  in  1522 ;  and 
also  the  sword  and  axe  of  Dragut  or  Dragart,  the  Turkish  general 
killed  in  the  siege  of  1565.  The  3  silver  trumpets  which  sounded 
the  retreat  from  Bhodes,  and  the  armour  of  a  Spanish  knight  7  ft. 
4  in.  high,  are  also  shown.  The  Library  close  to  the  Palace  contains 
40,000  volumes,  and  some  Phoenician  and  Boman  antiquities.  The 
Opera  House,  the  Bourse,  the  Auberge  d'Auvergne  (now  the  Courts 
of^  Justice),  the  Clubs  (the  Union  Club  was  the  Auberge  de  Provence), 
all  in  the  Strada  Beale,  should  be  looked  at.  After  this  ascend  the 
liighest  battery,  whence  is  a  fine  view  of  both  harbours  and  of  the 
fortifications.  If  a  carriage  with  2  horses  be  hired  for  6«.,  a  visit  may 
be  paid  to  the  Monastery  St.  Francis  d'Assise,  2  m.  from  the  landing 
stairs,  where  are  many  bodies  of  dried  monks.  Beyond  this,  2j  m., 
is  the  Governor's  country  Palace  of  San  Antonio,  where  is  a  lovely 
garden  with  cypresses  40  ft  high.  S.W.  of  this  about  2  nu  is  Citta 
V  ecchia  pn  a  ndge  about  300  ft.  high,  affording  a  view  over  a  greater 
part  of  the  island.  Here  is  a  church  with  a  dome  not  much  smaller 
than  that  of  St.  Paul's.  There  are  some  curious  Carthagenian  or 
Phcenician  ruins  at  Hajjar  Kaim,  but  they  are  too  distant  to  be  visited. 

TJie  Gh'eat  Port,  which  lies  on  the  E.  of  Valetta,  is  not  visited  by 
the  mail  steamers.  It  is  2  m.  long,  and  is  defended  at  its  entrance 
by  Fort  St.  Elmo  on  the  W.  and  Fort  Kicasoli  on  the  E.  Then  follow 
Binella,  Calcarra,  and  Senglea  Bays,  French  Creek,  and  at  the  S.  ex- 
tremitjr  Porto  Nuovo.  In  the  towns  of  Senglea  and  Burmola  and 
Vittonosa,  which  surround  the  bay  to  the  iN.E.  and  S.,  are  various 
barracks  and  factories  protected  on  the  W.  by  Fort  St.  Angelo,  and 
on  the  E.  by  the  Coto  Nera  lines.  On  the  E.  side  of  Vittoriosa  is 
the  Inquisitor's  Palace.    The  men-of-war  lie  in  the  Great  Port. 

TJie  mez  Canal, — For  a  history  of  this  canal  refer  to  the  "  Handbook 
of  Egypt,"  John  Murray,  1873.  The  land  about  Port  S'ald  is  low,  but 
the  Hghthouse,  160  ft.  high,  shows  the  approach  to  the  harbour,  which 
is  formed  by  2  breakwaters.  A  red  light  is  shown  at  the  end  of  the 
W.  mole  and  a  green  at  the  end  of  the  E.  The  lighthouse  shows  an 
electric  light  flashing  every  3  seconds  and  visible  20  m.  Opposite 
the  ainchorase  on  the  Marina  is  the  French  office  where  pilots  are  got, 
and  where  they  note  the  ship's  draught,  breadth,  length,  and  tonnage. 
There  is  here  a  wooden  plan  of  the  canal,  along  which  pe^s  with  flags 
show  the  position  of  every  vessel  passing  through  the  canal.  Steamers 
generally  coal  here,  so  there  is  time  to  see  the  place.  In  the  Place  de 
Lesseps,  in  the  centre  of  the  European  quarter,  are  the  H6tel  du 
Louvre  to  the  S.  opposite  the  P.  and  0.  office,  the  H6tel  de  France  to 


8      INTRODUCTION  :  SUEZ  CANAL — SUEZ — RED  SEA.   Scot.  I. 

the  W.  The  Arab  quarter  lies  to  the  W.  and  contains  nearly  7000 
inhabitants  and  a  mosqne.  The  dimensions  of  the  canal  (see  Hand- 
book of  Egjrptj)  are  as  follows : — 

Width  at  water-line,  where  banks  are  liw     .        .        .  328  ft. 

Ditto              in  deep  ciitlir^^s         .        .        ,     .  190   ., 

Ditto              at  base 72   ^, 

Depth 2G   „ 

Slope  of  bank  at  water-line,  1  in  5 ;  near  base,  1  in  2. 

For  about  42  ni.  the  canal  runs  due  N.  and  S.,  it  then  bends  to  the  E. 
for  about  30  m.  and  again  runs  straight  for  the  rest  of  its  course.  On 
the  W.  of  the  canal  as  far  as  Al  Kantarah  (the  bridge),  that  is  about  18 
m.,  there  is  a  broad  shallow  expanse  of  water  called  Lake  Manzalah, 
and  for  the  rest  of  the  way  on  the  W.  and  the  whole  way  on  the  E.  is 
a  sandy  desert.  At  10  m.  from  Port  S'ald  the  old  Pelusiac  branch  of 
the  Nile  is  crossed,  and  8  m.  to  the  N.E.  are  the  ruins  of  Pelusium. 
At  42  m.  from  Port  S'ald  is  the  town  of  Ismd'ilia,  divided  by  a  broad 
road  lined  with  trees,  which  leads  from  the  landing-place  across  the 
freshwater  canal  to  the  Quai  Mehemet.  In  the  W.  quarter  of  the 
town  are  the  Hotel  des  Voyageurs,  the  Railway  Station,  the  Quays  of 
the  freshwater  canal,  and  large  warehouses.  In  the  E.  quarter  the 
KhediVs  palace  and  the  waterworks  which  supply  Port  S*aid  from 
the  freshwater  canal.  About  5  m.  from  Ismd  liia  the  canal  enters 
Lake  Timsah,  where  the  course  is  marked  by  buoys.  About  10  m. 
further  to  the  S.  the  canal  enters  the  Bitter  Lakes,  where  the  course 
is  again  buoyed. 

Suez, — ^At  Suez  the  mail  steamers  frequently  lie  at  a  distance  of 
3  m.,  as  the  captains  prefer  to  be  where  they  can  get  off  at  once  as 
»oon  as  the  Brindisi  mail  arrives.  The  office  of  the  P.  and  O.  is 
marked  by  a  bust  of  Lieut.  Waghom  in  front  of  it. 

The  Red  Sea, — A  strong  N.  wind  generally  prevails  in  the  Red  Sea 
for  half  the  voyage,  and  is  succeeded  by  a  strong  wind  from  the  S.  for 
the  rest  of  the  way.  The  Sinaitic  Bange  is  the  first  remarkable  land 
viewed  to  the  E.,  but  Sinai  itself,  distant  37  geo.  m.,  is  hid  bv  interven- 
ing mountains  of  equal  height.  Shddwan  Island  is  a  little  S.  of  the 
land  that  intervenes  between  the  Gulfs  of  Suez  and  Akabah ;  about 
10  m.  from  it  is  the  reef  on  which  the  "  Camatic  "  was  lost  in  1866. 
The  next  danger  is  "The  Brothers,"  2  circular  rocks  rising  30  ft.  above 
the  sea.  In  the  S.  part  of  the  Red  Sea  islets  are  numerous,  and 
among  them  is  the  group  called  "  the  Twelve  Aj)ostles."  There  is 
one  pmce  where  a  light  is  particularly  wanted,  it  is  the  rock  of  Abil 
Ail ;  it  is  not  easily  seen  on  account  of  its  grey  colour.  It  is  2J  m.  to 
the  E.  of  High  Island  or  Jabal  Suhaya,  wmch  is  in  N,  lat.  14°'4'  and 
E.  long.  42**  44'.  In  the  monsoon  the  weather  is  generally  misty 
here,  and  a  lighthouse  is  much  needed.  On  Jabal  Tir,  also  in  N.  lat. 
15°  38'  and  E.  long.  41°  54',  a  light  is  required,  as  vessels  coming  from 
the  N.  have  a  run  of  400  m.  to  this  island  without  seeing  land,  and  it 
is  very  desirable  that  the  ctiptaius  should  make  sure  of  their  position, 
{18  there  are  reefs  to  the  W.  and  E.,  the  latter  at  only  20  m,  distant. 
Jabal  Til-  is  110  m.  N.  of  Abu  AiL  At  Perini  island  there  is  an 
officer  stationed  with  80  men.    There  is  also  a  lighthouse,  but  in  spite 


Sect.  I.  OVERLAND   ROUTE   BY   VENICE   OR   BRINDISI.  9 

of  it  the  Cunard  steamer  "Batavia"  got  ashore  on  the  N.  part  of  the 
island.  On  the  African  shore  there  is  a  kige  square  house  built  by 
the  French,  now  deserted.  From  Perim  to  the  Arabian  coast  the 
strait  is  only  1  m.  broad.    From  Perim  to  Aden  is  90  m.  due  E. 

Adm, — Most  people  land  at  Aden  to  escape  the  dust  and  heat  in 
coaling.  AH  boats  must  have  a  licence  from  the  conservator  of  the 
port,  and  the  number  of  the  licence  must  be  painted  on  the  bow  and 
stem.  Each  of  the  crew  must  wear  the  number  on  his  left  breast  in 
figures  2^  in.  long.  When  asking  payment  the  crew  must  show  the 
table  of  tares  and  rules,  and  any  one  of  them  asking  pre-payment  is 
liable  to  fine  or  imprisonment  In  case  of  dispute,  recourse  must  be 
had  to  the  nearest  European  police-officer.  A  Doat  inspector  attends 
at  the  Gun  Wharf  from  6  a.m.. to  11  p.m.  to  call  boats  and  to  give  in- 
formation to  passengers.  After  sunset  passengers  can  be  landed  only 
at  the  Gun  Whar£  It  takes  about  J  of  an  hour  to  land  at  the  Post 
Office  Pier,  which  is  broad  and  sheltered.  About  1  m.  to  the  left  are 
the  H6tel  de  I'Europe  and  the  H6tel  de  PUnivers.  There  is  also  a 
large  shopkept  by  a  Pdrei,  To  the  right  about  1  m.  is  Government 
House.  The  hour  of  departure  is  always  posted  up  on  board  the 
steamer,  and  should  there  be  4  hrs.  or  more  of  daylight,  a  drive  may 
be  taken  to  the  Tanks,  which  are  5  m.  from  the  landing-place.  These 
were  begun  in  600  a.d.,  and  13  have  been  restored,  holdmg  8  million 
gallons  of  water. 

The  vessels  of  the  Messageries  Maritimes  do  not  ran  to  Bombay. 

2.  Route  Overland  by  Venice  or  Brindisi. 

Through  tickets  from  London  to  Brindisi  may  be  bought  at  the 
P.  and  O.  Offices,  122  Leadenhall  Street,  and  25  Cockspur  Street, 
and  cost,  Ist  class  £11  17s.  3d,,  and  2nd  class  £8  12s.  6^.,  being 
the  same  amount  as  tickets  from  station  to  station.  If  a  through 
ticket  or  a  part  of  it  is  lost,  a  fresh  payment  must  be  made.  With 
through  tickets  the  journey  may  be  broken  at  Dover,  Calais,  Folke- 
stone, Boulogne,  Amiens,  and  Paris,  and  at  3  principal  stations 
between  Paris  and  Bologna.  Also  at  Ancona  ancl  Foggia,  between 
Bologna  and  Brindisi.  Between  London  and  Paris  60  lbs.  of  bag- 
gage are  allowed  free  vid  Newhaven  and  Dieppe,  and  56  lbs.  via 
Dover  and  Folkestone.  Between  Paris  and  Modane  66  lbs.  are 
allowed,  but  on  the  Italian  rlys.  all  baggage  is  charged  at  Ifr.  TJc. 
for  every  22  lbs.  between  Modane  and  Bologna,  and  2frs.  51c.  be- 
tween Bologna  and  Brindisi.  The  London,  Chatham,  and  Dover 
trains  leave  victoria  St.,  1st  and  2nd  class  at  7*40  a.m.,  and  1st  class 
only  at  8*20  p.m.  Passengers  by  the  through  mail  train  must  not 
start  later  than  7*40  a.m.  on  Thursday.  Turin  is  reached  at  6*40 
P.M.  by  the  train  that  leaves  Paris  at  8*40  p.m.  and  Modane  at  2*50 
p.m.  This  train  arrives  at  Bologna  at  5  p.m.  Here  the  Hotel 
Brun  can  be  recommended.  Brindisi  is  reached  at  1037  p.m.,  and 
here  the  Grand  Hotel  des  Indes  Oricntalcs  faces  the  quay  where  the 
P.  and  0.  steamers  lie. 

Alexandria. — This  port  cannot  be  entered  at  night.  The  land  is 
low,  but  the  lighthouse  is  seen  at  about  15  iik  off.    A  breakwater 


10 


INTBODUCTION  :    ERAS. 


Sect.  I» 


1  m.  long  projects  from  the  S.  side  of  the  harbour.  On  landing  a 
walk  of  10  minutes  brings  one  to  the  Great  Square  or  Place  Mo- 
hammed Ali,  where  is  the  H6tel  de  TEurope.  Close  by,  in  the 
Place  de  I'Eglise,  is  H6tel  Abbat.  At  the  right-hand  comer  of  the 
Square  is  the  P.  and  0.  Office.  For  the  sights  of  Alexandria  sec 
Murray's  "  Handbook  of  Egypt."  A  vehicle  costs  2«.  an  hour  in 
day  and  3«.  at  night.  The  train  for  Suez  starts  at  6  p.m.  Time- 
tables are  furnished. 

By  Venice.— The  H6tel  de  TEurope  is  the  best  at  Venice.  From 
the  15th  of  April  till  the  15th  of  October  pleasant  weather  may  be 
looked  for  in  the  Adriatic.  In  the  other  months  strong  breezes  are 
frequent. 

§  €.   ERAS. 

The  Hindiis  call  this  the  4th  Age  of  the  Earth,  which 
they  term  Kdliyug,  the  commencement  of  which  they  reckon  from 
the  18th  of  February,  3102  B.c.  The  Era  of  Vikram,  King  of 
tJjjain,  is  reckoned  from  57  B.C.,  and  the  years  are  called  Samwat. 
The  Era  of  Shalivahana  dates  from  March  14,  a.d.  78,  and  the  years 
are  called  Shaka.  The  Muhammadan  Era  is  called  the  Hijrah,  or 
Flight,  and  is  reckoned  from  July  16th,  a.d.  622.  The  months  are 
called — 


1. 

DAYS. 

Muljarram  .        .        .        .30 

7. 

Rajab 
Sh^aban 

DAYS. 

.     30 

2. 

§afar 

29 

8. 

.     .    29 

3. 

Kabi'u  '1  avval,  or  Rabi'a  I. 

30 

9. 

Ramaz4n  . 

.    30 

4. 

Rabi'u  '1  dkhir,  or  Rabi'ii's 

10. 

Shawwdl 

.     .     29 

sanl,  or  II. 

20 

11. 

Zd'l  K'adah       . 

.     30 

JumMa   '1  avval,    or   Ju- 

12. 

Zii'lljijjah    . 

.     .     29 

mad  I.          .... 

30 

and  in  leap  years     . 

.    30 

6. 

Jumada  '1  AVTiir,  or  Jumad  II. 

29 

• 

The  year  of  the  Hijrah  being  lunar,  has  354  d.  8h.  48  m.  To 
bring  the  Hijrah  year  into  accordance  with  the  Christian  year,  ex- 
press the  former  in  years  and  decimals  of  a  year  and  multiply  by 
•970225,  add  621*54,  and  the  total  will  correspond  exactly  to  the 
Christian  year.  Or  to  effect  the  same  correspondence  roughly,  deduct 
3  per  cent,  from  the  Hijrah  year,  add  621*54,  and  the  result  will 
be  the  period  of  the  Christian  year  when  the  Muhammadan  year 
begins.  All  trouble,  however,  of  comparison  is  saved  by  Dr.  Ferdi- 
nand Wiistenfeld's  Comparative  Tables,  Leipzig,  1854. 

Era  of  the  Parsis. — This  is  reckoned  from  the  accession  of  Yez- 
dajird,  on  the  16th  of  June,  632  a.d.  There  are  12  months,  of  3C 
days  each,  and  5  days  are  added  at  the  end. 


Pdrst  Months, 


1.  Farvai'dln. 

2.  Ardibihisht. 

3.  Khui-dad. 

4.  Tir. 

5.  Amardad. 
G.  Sharivar. 


7.  Mihr. 

8.  Aban. 

9.  Addr. 

10.  Deh. 

11.  Bahmaii. 

12.  Asfandiyur. 


Sect.  I. 


TABLE   OF    FESTIVALS    AND   FASTS. 


11 


Tarikh  Ildhi,  aiid  Fasli  Era. — These  eiiw  both  begin  with  the  com- 
mencement of  Akbar's  reign,  on  Friday,  the  5th  of  RabiVs-sdnl, 
A.H.  963= 19th  of  February,  1556.  To  make  tliis  era  correspond 
with  the  Christian,  963  must  be  added  to  it. 


Year  of  the 

HUrah 
year. 

Hijrah 
begins. 

Sidereal  years. 

1 

Christiaii  era. 

K&liyug. 

Shaka. 

Begin. 

Saiuwat. 

1880 

1298 

4 

4,981 

1802 

11 

1987 

1 

Beginning. 


11th  April 


Table  of  Festivals  and  Farts, 
hindu  festivals. 

Mdkar  SattkrantL-^On  the  Ist  of  the  month  Miigh,  the  sun  entei*s 
the  sign  Capricorn  or  Makar.  From  this  day  till  the  arrival  of  the 
sun  at  the  N.  point  of  the  Zodiac  the  i)eriod  is  called  Uttardyana, 
and  from  that  time  till  he  returns  to  Makar  is  Dakshindjy^ana,  the 
i'ormer  period  being  lucky  and  the  latter  unlucky.  At  the  festival  of 
Makar  Sankr4nti  the  Hindus  bathe,  accompanied  by  a  BnUunan,  and 
rub  themselves  with  sesamum  seed.  They  also  invite  Brahmans  and 
give  them  pots  full  of  sesammn  seed  and  other  things.  They  wear 
new  clothes  with  ornaments,  and  distribute  sesamum  seed  mixed  "\ntli 
sugar. 

Vasant  Panchami  is  on  the  5th  day  of  the  light  half  of  Mugh,  and 
is  a  festival  in  honour  of  Spring,  which  is  person ific.'d  under  the  name 
of  Vasanta  or  Spring. 

Rathsaptami.—  From  Hatha,  a  car,  and  Saptami,  seventh,  when  a 
new  sun  mounts  his  chariot. 

Shivardt,  the  night  of  Shiva,  held  on  the  14th  of  the  dark  half  of 
the  month  Mdgha,  when  Shiva  is  worshipped  with  flowers  during  the 
whole  night. 

Holi,  A  festival  in  honour  of  Kyishna,  held  fifteen  days  before  the 
moon  is  at  its  full,  in  the  month  Phalgun,  celebrated  with  swinging 
and  squirting  red  powder  over  everyone.  All  sorts  of  licence  are  in- 
dulged in. 

Gudhi  Pddavd,  on  the  Ist  of  Chaitra.  The  leaves  of  the  Melia  Azadi- 
rachta  are  eaten.  On  this  day  the  New  Year  commences,  and  the 
Almanac  for  that  year  is  worshipped. 

Rdmanavamiy  held  on  the  9th  of  Chaitra,  in  honour  of  Ramdchan- 
dra,  who  was  bom  on  this  day  at  Ayodhya.  A  small  image  of  Rdmd 
is  put  into  a  cradle  and  worshipped,  and  red  powder  called  guldl  is 
thrown  about. 

Vada  Savitfi,  held  on  the  15th  of  Jyeshth,  when  women  worship 
the  Indian  fig-tree. 

Ashddhi  EtcddasM,  the  11th  of  the  month  Ashadh,  sacred  to  Vishnu, 
when  tnat  deity  i-eposes  for  4  months. 

Ndg  Pancliamt,  held  on  the  5th  of  Shiiivan,  when  the  seri:)cnt  Kali 
is  said  to  have  been  killed  by  Krishna.  Ceremonies  are  performed 
to  aveit  the  bite  of  snakes. 


12  INTRODUCTION  :   HINDlJ   FESTIVALS.  Sect.  I. 

Ndrali  PumiTiut,  held  on  the  15th  of  Shravan.  The  stormy  season 
is  then  considered  over,  and  ofierings  of  cocoa  nuts  are  thrown  into 
the  sea. 

Gokul  AsMcmii,  held  on  flie  8th  of  the  dark  half  of  Shrdvan,  when 
Krishna  is  said  to  have  been  born  at  Gokul.  Kice  may  not  be  eaten 
on  this  day,  but  fruits  and  other  grains.  At  night  Hindus  bathe  and 
worship  an  image  of  Krishna,  adorning  it  with  the  Ocymum  sanctwm. 
The  chief  votary  of  the  temple  of  Kdnhobd  dances  in  an  ecstatic 
fashion,  and  is  worshipped  and  receives  large  presents.  He  after- 
wards scourges  the  spectators. 

Pitri  ATndvdsya,  neld  on  the  30th  of  Shravan,  when  Hindiis  go 
to  Valkeshwar  in  Bombay  and  bathe  in  the  tank  called  the  Bangan^, 
which  is  said  to  have  been  produced  by  Bdmd,  who  pierced  tlie 
ground  with  an  arrow  and  brought  up  the  water.  Shraddas  or  cere- 
monies in  honour  of  departed  ancestors  are  performed  on  the  side  of 
the  tank. 

Ganesh  Chaturthi,  held  on  the  4th  of  Bhadrapad,  in  honour  ot 
Qanesh,  a  clay  image  of  whom  is  worshipped  and  Brdhmans  are  en- 
tertained. The  Hindus  are  prohibited  from  looking  at  the  moon  on 
this  day,  and  if  by  accident  they  should  «ee  it,  they  get  themselves 
abused  by  their  neighbours  in  the  hope  that  this  will  remove  the  curse. 

Rishi  Panchami,  held  on  the  day  following  Ganesh  Chaturthi,  in 
honour  of  the  7  Eishis. 

Gaiirt  Vaharty  held  on  the  7tli  of  Bhddrapad,  in  honour  of  Shiva's 
wife,  called  Gauri  or  the  Fair.  Cakes  in  the  shape  of  pebbles  are 
eaten  by  women. 

TFdman  Dwddashiy  on  the  12th  of  Bhadrapad,  in  honour  of  the  5th 
incarnation  of  Vishnu,  who  assumed  the  shape  of  a  dwarf  to  destroy 
Bali. 

Anant  ChaturdasM,  held  on  the  14th  of  Bhadrapad,  in  honour  of 
Ananta,  the  endless  serpent. 

Pit?'i  Paksh,  held  on  the  last  day  of  Bhadrapad,  in  honour  of  the 
Pitras  or  Ancestors,  when  offerings  of  lire  and  water  are  made  to 
them. 

Dasara,  held  on  the  lOtli  of  Asliwin,  in  honour  of  Durga,  who  on 
this  day  slew  the  buffalo-headed  demon  Maheshdsur.  On  this  day 
Rama  marched  against  Ravana,  and  for  this  reason  the  Marathas 
chose  it  for  their  expeditions.  Branches  of  the  Butea  frondosa  are 
offered  at  the  temples.  This  is  an  auspicious  day  for  sending  children 
to  school.  The  9  preceding  days  are  called  Navaratra,  when  Brdh- 
mans are  paid  to  recite  hymns  to  Durga. 

JDlwdli,  "feast  of  lamps,"  from  Diwd,  "alamp,"and  Ali,"a  row,"held 
on  the  new  moon  of  Kartik,  in  honour  of  Kdli  or  Bhawani,  and  more 
particularly  of  Lakshmi,  when  merchants  and  bankers  count  tht5Tr 
wealth  and  worship  it.  It  is  said  that  Vishnu  killed  a  giant  on  that 
day,  and  the  women  went  to  meet  him  with  lighted  lamps.  In 
memory  of  this  lighted  lamps  are  set  afloat  in  rivers  and  in  the  sea, 
and  auguries  are  drawn  from  them  according  as  they  shine  on  or  are 
extinguished. 

Bali  Pratipada  is  held  on  the  1st  day  of  Kartik,  when  Hindus  fill 
a  basket  with  rubbisli,  put  a  lighted  lamj)  on  it,  and  throw  it  away 


Sect.  I.  MUHAMMADAX    FESTIVALS.  13 

outside  the  house,  saying,  "  Let  troubles  go  anil  the  kingdom  of  Bali 
come." 

Kdrtik  Ekddashl,  held  on  the  11th  of  Kdrtik,  in  honour  of  Vishnu, 
who  is  said  then  to  rise  from  a  slumber  of  4  months. 

Kdrtik  Pumima,  held  on  the  full  moon,  of  Kdrtik,  in  honour  of 
Shiva,  who  destroyed  on  that  day  the  demon  Tripurdsura.  On  this 
day  a  great  fair  is  held  in  Bombay  at  Valkeshwar,  where  Hindiia 
worship  Sliiva  and  buy  sweetmeats  and  toys  for  their  children. 

MUHAMMADAN  FESTIVALS. 

Bakari  'Id  or  'td-i-Kurhdn,  held  on  the  10th  of  Zu  1  hijjah  in 
memory  of  Abraham^s  offering  Ism'All  or  Ishniael.  See  Sale's 
"  Koran,"  page  337.  Tliis  festival  is  also  called  'Idu  'z  Zuhd  or  the 
festival  of  lunch,  when  camels,  cows,  sheep,  goats,  kids,  or  lambs,  ai*e 
sacrificed. 

Muharram,  a  fast  in  remembrance  of  the  death  of  Hasan  and 
Husain,  the  sons  of  'All  and  Fdtimah  the  daughter  of  Muhammad. 
Hasan  was  poisoned  by  Yezld  in  a.h.  49,  and  Husiiin  was  murdered 
at  Karbald  on  the  10th  of  Muharram,  a.h.  61  =  9th  October,  a.d. 
680.  The  fast  begins  on  the  Ist  of  Muharram  and  lasts  10  days. 
Muslims  of  the  Slii'ah  persuasion  assemble  in  the  T'aziyah 
Khdnah,  house  of  mourning.  On  the  night  of  the  7th  an  image  of 
Surdk,  the  animal  on  which  Muhammad  ascended  to  heaven,  is 
carried  in  procession,  and  on  the  10th  a  Tdbiit  or  bier.  The  Tdbi'its 
are  thrown  into  the  sea.  The  mourners  move  in  a  circle,  beating 
their  breasts  with  cries  of  "Alas !  Hasan,  Alas  !  Husain."  At  this 
time  the  fanatical  spirit  is  at  its  height,  and  serious  disturbances  often 
take  place. 

A'Eiiri  Chahdr  ShamhaJi,  held  on  the  last  Wednesday  of  Safar, 
when  Muhammad  recovered  a  little  in  his  last  illness  and  bathed  for 
the  last  time.  It  is  proper  to  write  out  7  blessings,  wash  off  the  ink 
and  drink  it,  as  also  to  bathe  and  repeat  prayei"s. 

Bari  Wafdty  held  on  the  13th  of  Ral:)i'u  1  avval  in  memory  of 
Muhammad's  death,  A.H.  11. 

Pir-i-Dastgir,  held  on  the  10th  of  Eabi'u  1  dkhir  in  honour  of  Saiyid 
'Abdul  Kddir  Gildni,  called  Plr  Pirdn  or  Saint  of  Saints,  who  taught 
and  died  at  Baghddd.  During  epidemics  a  green  flag  is  carried  in  his 
name. 

Chirdghdn-i-Zindali  Shdh  MaddVy  held  on  the  l7th  of  Jumada  '1 
avval  in  honour  of  a  saint  who  lived  at  Makkhanpur  and  who  is 
thought  to  be  still  alive,  whence  he  is  called  Zindah,  "  living." 

'Urs'i-Kddir  Wali^  held  on  the  11th  of  Jumdda  1  dkhir,  in  honour 
of  Khwdjah  Mu'inu  'd  din  Chishtl,  who  was  buried  at  Ajmir  in 
A.H.  628. 

Muraj-i-Muhammady  held  on  the  25th  of  Rajab,  when  the  Prophet 
ascended  to  heaven. 

Shah-i-hardty  night  of  record,  held  on  the  16th  of  Sh'abdn,  when 
they  say  men's  actions  for  next  year  are  recorded.  The  Kur'an 
ought  to  be  read  all  night,  and  the  next  day  a  fast  should  le 
observed. 


14  INTRODUCTION  :  PARRI    FESTIVALS.  Sect.  I. 

Ramazdn,  the  month  long  fast  of  the  Muhamniadanp.  The  night 
of  the  27th  is  called  Lailatu  '1-Kadr,  "  night  of  power,"  becxiuse  the 
Kur^iin  ctime  down  from  heaven  on  tliat  night 

*Idu  *l-ftr,  the  festival  when  the  fast  of  the  Bamazan  is  broken. 
The  evening  is  spent  in  rejoicing  and  in  exhibitions  of  the  Nach 
girls. 

Chirdghdn-irBaiidah  NawdZy  held  on  the  16th  of  Zii  1  K'adah  in 
honour  of  a  saint  of  the  Chishti  family,  who  is  buried  at  Kalbarga 
and  is  also  called  Glsii  Dardz, "  long  ringlets." 

THE  PABSi  FESTIVALS. 

Patati,  New  Year's  day.  The  1st  of  Farvardin.  The  Parsis  rise 
earlier  than  usual,  put  on  new  clothes,  and  pray  at  the  Fire  Temples. 
They  then  visit  friends  and  join  hands,  distribute  alms  and  give 
clothes  to  servants  and  othew.  This  day  is  celebrated  in  honour  of 
the  accession  of  Yezdajird  to  the  throne  of  Peraia,  a.d.  632. 

Khurddd-sdl,  the  birthday  of  Zoroaster,  who  is  said  to  have  been 
bom  1200  B.C.  at  the  city  of  Rai  or  Rhages  near  Tehran. 

Farvardtn-Jasan,  on  the  19th  of  Farvardin,  on  which  ceremonies 
are  performed  in  honor  of  the  dead  called  Frohai*s  or  "  protectoi-s.'' 
There  are  11  other  Jasans  in  honour  of  various  angels. 

Jamshidi  Nauroz,  held  on  the  2l8t  of  March.  It  dates  from  the 
time  of  Jamshid,  and  the  Pdrsis  ought  to  commence  their  New  Year 
from  it. 

ZartasJUe  Biso,  held  on  the  11th  of  Deh  in  remembrance  of  the 
death  of  Zartasht  or  Zoroaster. 

Mvktad,  held  on  the  25th  of  Aspenddd.  A  clean  place  in  the 
house  is  adorned  with  fruits  and  flowers,  and  silver  or  brass  vessels 
filled  with  water  are  placed  there.  Cei*emonies  are  performed  in 
honour  of  the  souls  of  the  dead. 

According  to  the  Kissah-i-Sanjan,  translated  by  E.  B.  Eastwick 
in  the  Journal  of  the  fiombay  Asiatic  Society  for  1842,  the  ancient 
books  of  the  fire- worshippers  ^^ere  destroyed  by  Alexander  the  Great, 
and  for  3  centuries  the  sect  was  persecuted,  but  AKleshir  Bdbegan, 
229-243  A.D.,  restored  fire  worship.  After  the  defeat  of  Yezdajird 
in  640  A.D.,  the  Fire- Worshippers  migrated  to  Hurmaz  (the  island  of 
OiTuuz),  where  they  remained  15  years,  and  being  warned  by  their 
ancient  prophecies,  then  fled  thence  to  Hindustan.  They  anchored 
at  Deb  or  Diva,  an  island  a  little  to  the  S.W.  of  the  peninsula  of 
Kdthiawad.  There  they  disembarked,  and  resided  19  years  and  then 
migrated  to  Sanjdn,  24  m.  S.  of  Damdn  and  5  m.  inland.  Damdn  is 
101  m.  N.  of  Bombay  and  about  30  m.  S.  from  Surat.  The  neigh- 
bouring chief  was  Rand  Jddi  or  Jayadeva,  a  feudatory  of  the  Rajput 
King  of  Champanlr,  who  granted  an  asylum  to  the  fugitives  on 
condition  that  they  explained  their  faith,  adopted  the  language  of 
Hind  in  place  of  that  of  Persia,  assimilated  the  dress  of  their  "women 
to  that  of  India,  laid  aside  their  arms  and  armour,  and  agreed  that 
their  marriage  processions  should  be  at  night.  They  told  the  Raja 
that  they  worshipped  Yazddn,  and  revered  the  moon  and  the  sun,  the 
cow  and  water  ana  fire,  that  they  wore  as  a  sacred  cincture  a  belt  of 
72  threadB  (called  the  Kusti)  ;  that  their  women  at  certain  periods 


Sect.  I.  CHRONOLOGICAL   TABLES.  l'"^ 

forbore  to  look  on  the  sun,  the  moon,  and  water,  and  kept  at  a  dif»tance 
from  water  and  fire ;  and  that  they  had  various  other  observances, 
which  will  be  found  in  Dr.  Wilson's  "  The  Doctrine  of  Jehovah 
addressed  to  the  PArsis."  They  then  took  up  their  abode  in  the 
B4j4's  territory  and  called  their  place  of  residence  Sanjdn.  Three 
hundred  years  passed  away,  and  though  the  Fire-Worshippers  held 
their  head-quarters  at  Sanjan,  many  of  them  were  dispersed  through 
Gujardt.  Some  went  to  Nausdri,  some  to  Bdnkanir,  some  to 
Bhanich,  othei*6  to  Anklisar,  and  others  again  to  Khambayat.  Five 
hundred  years  after  the  settlement  at  Sanjan  had  been  founded, 
the  Muslims  conquered  Ghampanir,  and  Mall^miid  Shah  Begada  began 
to  reign  there,  and  sent  Alif  thdn  to  conquer  Sanjdn.  This  leader 
was  defeated  by  the  Hindu  Rdjd  chiefly  through  the  aid  of  the  Fire- 
Worshippers  under  their  chief,  Ardashir.  In  a  second  action 
Ma^mud  Shdh's  army  was  victorious,  and  Ardashir  and  the  Bdid 
were  slain.  For  12  years  after  this  the  settlement  of  Sanjan 
lay  waste,  and  the  Fire- Worshippers  then  moved  to  Bansda,  or 
Bdnsadah;  and  not  many  years  after  to  Nausdri,  whence  they 
migrated  to  Bombay  and  other  places. 

§  /.    CHRONOLOGICAL   TABLES. 

Hindu  Clirmuilogy  "before  the  CJtrUtian  JSra.  -^  ^ 

ArraDgement  of  first  nine  Books  of  the  Rig  Veda  .        .    (about)    1400 
Composition  of  parts  of  the  tenth  Book      .        .        .  (about)    1100 

SAma}^®^ (about)  1000-802 

Sutras  Vaidik,  comprising  laws 1000 

Siitras  of  Philosophical  system       ....  (about)  1200-800 

AtharraVeda 800 

Sakya  Muni,  birth 638 

Death  and  JRn 543 

First  Buddhist  Convocation  at  Hdjagpha o43 

Voyage  of  Skylax  down  the  Indus  by  order  of  Darcius  Ilystaspcs.  490 

Second  Buddhist  Convocation  at  Vesali 443 

Alexander  crossed  the  Indus,  April 327 

Chandragupta  or  Sandrakottus 315 

Mission  of  Megasthenes  to  the  Court  of  Sankradotlus    .        .        .  302 

Rdm^yana 300 

Ashoka 270 

Third  Buddhist  Convocation 249 

Mahdbhdrata 240 

Laws  of  Manu 200 

Menander        .        .        * 126 

Ceylon  Buddhistical  Books 104-76 

J5ra  of  Vikramdditya  and  of  the  Shakuntaln          ....  57 

A.D. 

Cave  temples  at  Salsettc 50-100 

^ra  of  ShAlivdhan 78 

Sdh  dynasty  of  Gujardt 100 

Travels  of  Fa-Hian 399 

Mahawanso 459-477 

Travels  of  Hiuan  Tsang  .        • 629-645 

Purdnas .         800-1400 


IC  introduction:  governors  of  bombat.  Sect.  I. 


Governors  of  Bombay  and  the  Dates  of  their  Acoesglon, 

DATES. 

Mr.  Gerald  Aungier          .        .        . 1667 

„    Thomas  Rolt 1667 

Sir  John  Child,  Bart 1680 

Mr.JohnVaux 1690 

„    Bartholomew  Harris 1690 

„    Samuel  Annesley 1692 

Sir  John  Gayer 1698 

Sir  Nicolas  Waite • 1702 

Sir  H.  Oxenden,  Bart 1707 

Mr.  William  Aislabie 1709 

„    Charles  Boone 1724 

„    William  Phipps 1731 

„    Robert  Cowan 1734 

„    John  Home 1734 

„    Stephen  Law 1739 

„    William  Wake .  1742 

„    JohnGcekie 1742 

„    Richard  Bouchier 1750 

„    Charles  Crommelin    .        .                 ....                 .  .  1760 

„    Thomas  Hodges 1767 

.,    William  Hornby 1776 

„    Rawson  Horr  Bodham 1784 

„    Andrew  Ramsay 1788 

SirW.  Medows,  K.B ....  1790 

Sir  Robert  Abercrombie.  K. P. .  1790 

Mr.  George  Dick 1794 

„    John  Griffiths    ......                                  .  1795 

„    Jonathan  Duncan          ....                 ....  1795 

„    George  Brown 1811 

Sir  Evan  Nepean,  Bart.        .                 1812 

The  Hon.  Mountstuart  Elphinstone 1815 

Sir  John  Malcolm,  K.C.B 1817 

SirT.  S.  Beckwith,  K.C.B 1830 

Mr.  John  Romer 1831 

Earl  of  Clare 1831 

Sir  Robert  Grant,  Bart 1835 

Mr.  James  Farish 1838 

Sir  James  Rivett-Carnac,  Bart 1839 

Sir  W.  H.  MacDaghten,  Bart 1841 

The  Hon.  G.  W.  Anderson 1841 

Sir  George  Arthur,  Bart 1842 

The  Hon.  L.  R.  Reid 1846 

Sir  George  Russell  Clerk 1847 

Viscount  Falkland 1848 

Right  Hon.  Jn.  Lord  Elphinstone,  G.C.H 1853 

Sir  George  Russell  Clerk,  K.C.B I860 

Sir  Bartle  Frere 1862 

Sir  Seymour  Fitzgerald 1867 

Sir  Philip  Wodehouse 1872 

Sir  Richard  Temple,  Bart 1877 

Sir  James  Fergusson,  Bart 1880 


Sect.  I.                                MARATHA   DYNASTIES.  17 

■ 

Mardfha  DynastleM. 

PATES. 

Shdhji  Bhonsl^,  bom  at  the  village  of  Yerol,  near  the  caycs  of  EMra  1594 
Enters  the  service  of  the  Emperor  Sh&h  Jah4n  as  the  chief  of 

SOOOhorae 1629 

Dies  at  Baswapatan  near  Bedniir          ....      January,  1664 
Sbivajl,  founder  of  the  Mard^ha  empire,  born  at  Junnar,  50  miles 

N.ofPuni May,  1627 

Murders  Afzal  Khdn,  the  Bijdpur  General  at  Pratdpgarh  .        .    ,  1659 

Assumes  the  title  of  Rdjd 1664 

Bepairs  to  Dilli  ♦ 1666 

Ascends  the  throne 1674 

Dies,  and  is  succeeded  by  his  son  Shambuji 1680 

Shambuji  executed  by  Aurangzib 1689 

Baj4  Rdm,  son  of  Shivaji,  by  his  second  wife 1690 

Shdo  or  SAhu  RdjA,  or  ShivajlIL,  son  of  Shambuji                 .        .  1708 
Dies,  and  the  Peshwds  get  possession  of  the  whole  iK)wer 

27th  December,  1749 

Ram  Rdj A,  son  of  Shivaji  II. 1778 

SAhu  n.,  adopted  son  of  Rdm  RAjA         ....  4th  May,  1808 

PratAp  Singh,  eldest  son  of  SAhu  II.,  entlironed  by  the  English     .  1818 

Deposisd  by  the  English  and  sent  prisoner  to  Ban&ras        •        .    .  1839 

Ap4  Sd^b,  brother  of  PratAp  Singh 1839 

Dies,  and  his  territories  are  annexed  by  the  English          .        .    .  1848 

Pcishwas. 

ShAmraj  Pant    {See  Grant  Duff,  vol.  i.  i)age  150)  .        .        .        .1656 

Deposed  by  Shivaji,  and  his  office  given  to  Moro  Trimmal  Piiiglc  .  1659 

Nilu  Pant  Moreshwar 1690 

Bhairu  Pant  Pinglc 1708 

BAlAjl  WishwanAth 1714 

BAjl  RAo  BalAl,  son  of  BAlAjl 1720 

BAlAjl  BAji  RAo,  eldest  son  of  Bajl  RAo  Baldl 1740 

MhAdu  RAo,  second  sbn  of  BAlAjl .  1761 

Died  November  18th 1772 

NarAyan  RAo,  brother  of  MhAdu  RAo 1772 

RaghunAth  RAo  usurps 1773 

MhAdu  RAo  NArAyan,  son  of  KArAyan  llAo 1774 

KUls  himself        .    '    .        .        .       * 1795 

BAjl  RAo  RaghunAth 1796 

Chimnaji 2()thofMay  1796 

BAjl  RAo  publicly  proclaimed          .        .        .      4th  of  December,  1796 

Surrenders  to  tiie  English,  and  his  dominions  annexed  ...  3rd  June  1818 

BhonsU  Mdjds  of  JVdffpiir. 

KAnhojl  BhoiisU  SenA  SA^ib  SubA. 

Raghujl  Bhousl^ 1734 

Receives  the  province  of  BlrAr  from  the  Peshwa     ....  1750 

Dies,  and  is  succeeded  by  JAnujl 1753 

RAghuil,  eldest  son  of  MAdhujl 1772 

Sabajl,  killed  in  battle  by  Mudajl  (Apd  SAljib)           ....  1774 

Passajl,  son  of  Raghujl 1816 

Dcpose4^ 1817—1818 

'^  The. name  of  this  city  is  spelled  in  2  ways  in  Urdu,  Dilli  and  Dihli.    Both  are  right, 
but  in  this  book  the  form  Dilli  has  been  adoi>te<l. 

IBonibay—lSSO.]  c 


18         INTRODUCTION  :   SINDHIA  AND  HOLKAR  DYNASTIES.     Sect.  I. 

DATES. 

Gajar,  pfrandpon  of  Raghuji,  and  assumeB  his  name        .        .        .  1818 

ApA  §al^lb  dies  at  Jodhpiir 1840 

Raghuji  dies 11th  of  December,  1853 

Territory  of  N^gpiir  annexed  to  British  India         ....  1864 

Sindhia  Dynasty, 

B&nuji  Sindhia  of  Eanerkher  near  S&tdr^ 1724 

Jyapa,  eldest  son  of  Rdnujl  (Grant  Duff,  vol.  ii.  page  40)  .  .  1760 
Murdered  by  two  assassins  sent  by  Bijya  Singh  of  Jodhpi^r. 

(Grant  Duff,  vol.  ii.  page  144) 1759 

Mahdddjl,  third  son  of  RAnujl         . 1759 

Defeated  near  DiUl  by  Al^mad  ShAh,  when  Dataji  Sindhia  and 

two-thirds  of  the  MariLtha  army  were  killed        .        .        .    .  1769 

MahMAji  dies  ..." 1794 

Daulat  Kdo,  grand-nephew  of  Mah4ddjf      ....    1794  to  1803 

Daulat  Rdo  defeated  at  Assye Sept.  23rd,  1803 

Baiza  £di,  Daulat  Rdo's  widow,  regent 1825 

Jankojl 1833 

Jyaji  succeeds 1843 

His  army  defeated  by  Sir  Hugh  Gough  .        .         29th  December,  1843 

Gwdliar  fort  permanently  occupied  by  the  English        .        .        .  1844 

5%€  Holkar  Dynasty, 

Malhar  Rao  Holkar.    A  Dhangar  and  famous  geneml  of  horse. 

(Grant  Duff,  vol.  i.  page  479) 1724 

Obtains  the  larger  half  of  Mdlwa  with  a  revenue  of  J£750,000  a 

vear .        .  1750 

Retires  from  the  Battle  of  Pdnipat.    (Grant  Duff,  vol.  ii.  p.  153) 

6th  January,  1761 

Malhar  RAo  dies ' 1767 

Mali  Rdo,  grandson  of  Malhdr,  succeeds  under  Regency  of  Ahalya 
Bdi,  who  makes  Tukoji  Holkar,  no  relation  of  Malh&r  B&o, 

general 1767 

Tukoji  dies 15th  Aug.,  1797 

Tukoji's  eldest  son  Khaiide  Rao  nominally  succeeds,  but  is  con- 
fined at  Fund    .        .' 1797 

Rise  of  Jeswant  RAo,  illegitimate  brother  of  Khande  .  .  .  1800 
Jeswant  defeats  Sindhia's  army  at  Fund,  and  takes  his  guns  and 

baggage 25th  October,  1802 

Bouts  General  Monson's  army  near  Bidna  .        .         28th  August,  1804 

Jeswant  dies 20th  October,  1811 

Tulsi  Bdi,  mistress  of  Jeswant,  adopts  his  illegitimate  son  Malhdr 

Rdo 1811 

Malhdr's  army  defeated  by  the  English  at  Mehidpiir  ,     21st  Dec.  1818 

Martand  Rdo,  son  of  Bdpu  Holkar 1833 

HariRdo 1833 

Khand^Rdo .  1833 

Malkarji  under  the  Regency  of  the  Mdi  Sdhibah  until  his  majority 

in February,  1852 

H.H.  Mahdrdjd  Tukoji  Rao        " 1852 

Tlie  Gdekwdd  Dynasty, 

Ddmajl  appointed  by  Sdhu  Rdjd  second  in  command  to  Khande 

Rdo  Dhdbddd  with  the  title  of  Shamshir  Bahddur   .        .      ' ,  1720 


Sect  I.                            THE  GAEKWAD  DYNASTY.  1^ 

Pilajl,  son  of  Jankojl  GiekwAd 1721 

PiUjl  defeated  and  wounded  at  the  battle  of  Dabhoi    .    Ist  April,  1731 

Obtains  the  title  of  Send  KhAs  Khail 1731 

Pildji  is  assassinated  at  Ddkiir  by  an  emissary  of  Abhai  Singh       .  1732 

P&maji,  eldest  ^n  of  PUdjl 1732 

D&miji  II.  imprisoned  at  Pand  by  the  Peshwd       ....  1751 

Eeddrji  is  named  Gdekwdd 1751 

Damdjl  is  restored 1753 

He  returns  from  Pdnipat 1761 

Makes  Patan  his  capital 1763 

His  eldest  son  Govind  Rdo  is  defeated  and  taken  prisoner  by 
Mddhu  Rdo  Peshwd,  and  Ddmdji  is  severely  mulcted  for  his 

rebellion 1768 

Ddmdji  II.  dies 1768 

Govind  Rdo  attains  the  succession  by  paying  five  millions  and  fifty 

thousand  rupees 1768 

SaydjlRdo 1771 

Fath  Singh February  17th,  1778 

Fath  Singh  dies  and  is  succeeded  by  Mdudji  as  regent  for  Saydji, 

December  21st,  1789 

Mdndjldies August  1st,  1793 

Govind  Rdo  restored December  li)th,  1793 

Govind  Rdo  dies September  19th,  1800 

Succeeded  by  Anand  Kdo 1800 

Fath  Singh,  younger  brother  of  Auand  Rdo,  regent         April  3rd,  1816 

Fath  Singh  dies June  23rd,  1818 

Succeeded  by  his  younger  brother  Saydjl 1818 

Dies December  28th,  1847 

Succeeded  by  his  eldest  son  G^npat  Rao 1847 

Ganpat  Rdo  dies November  19th,  1866 

Succeeded  by  Khand6  Rdo 1866 

Khahd6  Rdo  dies November  28th,  1870 

Malhdi*  Rdo,  brother  of  Khande  Rdo   .        .        .      December  1st,  1870 

Deposed  and  deported  to  Madras    ....        April  22nd  1875 
Saydjl  Rdo  adopted  by  Jamnd  Bdi  and  declared  Gdekwdd 

May  27th,  1875 

Anhalwddd  Dynasty  of  Gujarat, 

Saila-deva,  living  in  retirement  at  Ujjain,  found  and  educated      .  696 
Banardja,  son  of  Samanta  Sinh  (Ohohdn),  who  founded  Anhalpiir, 

(Nerwdleh  or  Patau,)  called  after  Anala  Chohdn        .        .     .  745 

Jogardja 806 

BhimaRdjA 841 

Bheur 866 

Behirsinh 895 

Reshadat 920 

Samduta 935 

.*         '        '  Solanlthi  Dyna»t)j. 

Mula  Rdjd  usurped  the  throne 910 

Chamund,  invaded  by  SuUdn  MahmM 1025 

Vallabba  (Beyser  or  Bisela)  ancient  line  restored   ....  1038 

Durlabba  usurped  the  throne 1039 

c  2 

A 


20  INTRODUCTION  :    KINGS   OP   GUJARAT.  ScCt.  L 

DATES. 

Bhima  Tdjd. 

KAladeva,  Kama-rAjendra,  or  Visaladeva,  who  became  Paramount 

Sovereign  of  Dilll 1060 

Hiddha,  or  Jayasinh,  an  usurper 1094 

KumArap&la  poisoned 1094 

AjayapAla,  son  of  Jayasinha 1094 

Tlie  BMgela  DynaHty. 

Bhlma  Dcva  or  Bhala  Bhlma  Deva         ...                 .        .  1209 

Arjun  deva 1250 

Saranga  deva 1260 

Karan 1281 

GujarAt  was  annexed  to  Dilll  by  'AlAu'd-din  Mu\jamniad  Shiili     .  1309 

Ihrrnhb*  Dynasty  of  XJidndesh, 

Malik  RAji  Farrukhi  receives  the  j&gir  of  TAlnlr  from  Flroz          .  1370 

Malik  Naslr  or  NasirKhAn  Famikhl  builds  BurhAnpiir     .        .    .  1399 

Mlr&n  'Ada  Khdn  Farrukhi  expels  Dakhanls  from  KhAndesh        .  1437 

Miran  MubArik  Khan  Farrukhi ;  peaceful  reign       ,        .        .    .  1441 

Mir  An  Ghani,  or  A'dil  KhAn  Farrukhi  I. ;  tributary  to  GujarAt      .  1457 

DAM  KhAn  Farrukhi,  tributary  to  MAlwa 1503 

'A'nm  HumAyiin,  or 'Adil  KhAn  Farrukhi  II 1510 

MlrAn  Muhammad  KhAn  Farrul[>il ;  succeeds  to  Gujai'At  throua    .  1520 

Mir  An  MubArik  KhAn  Farrukhi,  brother ;  war  with  Mughuls         .  1535 

MlrAn  Muhammad  KhAn  Farrukhi ;  attack  from  Dakhan          .    .  1560 

RAjA  A'll  KhAn  Farrukhi ;  acknowledges  Akbar's  supremacy         .  1 576 

BahAdur  KhAn  Farrukhi ;  defies  Akbar,  imprisoned  at  GwAliar    .  1596 

Kings  of  Gujarat. 

Mu^affar  ShAh  I. ;   appointed  Viceroy  by  Firoz  Tughlak,   1391, 

A.H.  793  ;  assumes  independence  in  A.H.  799  .        •        .  A.D.  1396 

Al^mad  ShAh  I.,  grandson,  builds  A^madAbAd  and  Al^madnagar    .  1411 

.  Muhammad  ShAh,  sumamed  Karlm,  the  merciful   ....  1443 

Kutb  ShAh ;  opposes  MAlwa  King,  and  Chitor  rAjA  Kombha      .    .  1451 

"                   -  1459 

.  1459 

.  1511 

.  1526 

.  1526 

.  1526 

.  1536 

.  1538 

.  1553 

.  1561 


DAiid  ShAh,  his  imcle  deposed  in  favour  of 

MahmM  ShAh  I.  BegadA ;  two  expeditions  to  Dakhan 

Muj;affar  ShAh  II. ;  war  with  RAna  Sanga 

Sikandar  ShAh  assassinated 

Nasir  ElhAn,  or  Ma^mM  ShAh  II.  displaced  by 
BahAdur  ShAh,  invades  MAlwa,  murdered  by  Portuguese   . 
MlrAn  Muhammad  ShAh  Farrukhi,  nephew  of  MAlwa    . 
MabmTid  ShAh,  son  of  La^lf  KhAn ;  released  from  prison  . 
Al^mad  ShAh  II.,  a  spurious  heir  set  up  by  minister 
Muj^affar  ShAh  III.  Habbii,  a  supposititious  son  of  Mahmiid 
MugaSar  ShAh  submits  to  Akbar,  and  in  1583  GujarAt  finally  be- 
comes a  province  of  Akbar's  empire 1572 


^  A'dil  SlMi  JDyftasty  of  B^jdpur, 

Abii'l  Mugaffar  Yiisuf ' Adil  ShAh,  son  of  Ai^A  MurAd  or  Amurath  II. 

of  Anatolia        ..•...••  •        •    1489 


Sect.  I.                  GOYEBNOBS  AND    VICBBOYS   OF   GO  A.  21 

DATFS 

IsmA'il 'Adil  Shdh       ^ IMl 

Malii 'Ml  Shdh 1534 

Ibrahim  'Adil  Shdh  1 1636 

'All 'Adil  ShAh 1567 

Ibrahim 'A'dil  ShAh  II 1579 

Muhammad  'Adil  Shdh    ....                ....  1626 

SuUto  Sikandar  (or 'Ali 'Adil  Sh^  II.) 1660 

NizAin  Shdhi  Dynasty  of  Ahmadnagar, 

A^mad  Nigto  Sh^h 1490 

Bm-hAn  NizAm  Shdh  1 1508 

9usaiQ  Nij:Am  Shdh     . 1663 

Murtasd  Ni;;dm  Sh4h  I ...  1566 

Mir4n  Qusdin  Nij:Am  Shah         ...                         ...  1688 

IsmA'il  Nij{Am  ShAh 1689 

Burh4n  Niztei  ShAh  II 1590 

Ibrahim  Nig  Am  Shih 1594 

Ahmad  ibn  Shdh  TAhir 1694 

Bahddur  NijjAm  ShAh 1595 

MurtazA  Nisjim  Shdh  II.      .        .                         1598 

Malik  Ambar            .                                                ....  1007 

(ravcrnors  and  Viceroys  of  Goa, 

J.  Dom    Francisco  de   Almeida    (1st   Viceroy),    Maich    26th ; 

murdered  on  return  at  Cape  of  Good  Hope      .        .        .    .  1505 

2.  Affonso  de  Albuquerque,  October,  1509  ;   died  in  Harbour  of 

Goa,  December  16tih      .        .        .        .                .        ,        .  1515 

3.  Lopo  Spares  de  Albergaria,  September  8th,   1515  ;   went  to 

Portugal,  January  2^ 1519 

4.  Dipgo  Lopes  de  Siqueira,  September  8th 1518 

.5.  Dom  Duarte  de  Menezes,  January,  1522 ;  left  for  Portugal, 

December 1524 

6.  Dom  Vasco  da  Gama,  Count  of  Vidigueira  (2nd  Viceroy) 

September,  1524  ;  died  at  Cochin,  December  24th        .        .  1524 

7.  Dom  Henrique  de  Menezes,  January  17th,  1526  ;  died,  Feb- 

ruary 21st      1526 

8.  Lopo  Vaz  de  Sampaio,  February  21st,  1526  ;  sent  in  chains  to 

Portugal,  November  18th 1529 

9.  Nuno  da  Cunha,  November  18th,  1529— September  14th      .    .  1538 

10.  Dom  Garcia  de  Noronha  (3rd  Viceroy),  September  14th,  1538  ; 

died  April  3rd 1540 

11.  Dom  EstevSo  da  Gama,  son  of  Vasco  da  Gama,  April  3rd,  1540  ; 

returned  to  Portugal,  May  6th 1542 

12.  Martim  Aftonso  de  Souza,  7th  May,  1642,  to  September  10th    .  1546 

13.  Dom  Jofto  de  Castro,  Governor,  September  lOth,  1545  (4th 

Viceroy),  1547 ;  died,  June  6th    .        .        .        .        .        .  1548 

14.  Garcia  de  SA,  June  6th,  1548  ;  died,  June  13th    .        .        .    .  1549 

15.  Jorge  Caberal,  June  13th,  1549,  to  November  .        .        .        .  1550 

16.  Dom  Affonso  da  Noronha  (5th  Viceroy),  November,  1550,  to 

September  23rd 1554 

17.  Dom  Pedro  Mascarenhas  (6th  Viceroy),  September  23rd,  1554; 

jliedj^June  16th    • 1655 


2  INTRODUCTION.  Scct.  I. 

DATES* 

18.  Francisco  Barreto,  Jane  16th,  1555,  to  September  8th  .    .    1658 

19.  Dom  Constantino  da  Bragan^a  (7th  Viceroy),  September  8th, 

1658,  to  September  7th 1661 

20.  Dom  Francisco  Coutinho,  Count  of  Redondo  (8th  Viceroy), 

September  7th,  1561 ;  died,  Febmary  19th      ....    1564 

21.  JoSo  de  Mendon9a,  February  19th,  1664,  to  September  3rd      .    1664 

22.  Dom  AntSo  de  Noronha  (9th  Viceroy),  September  3rd,  1564, 

to  September  10th  ....  ...    1568 

23.  Dom  Luis  de  Athaide  (10th  Viceroy),  September,  1568,  to 

September  6th 1571 

24.  Dom  Antonio  de  Noronha  (11th  Viceroy),   September   6th, 

1571,  to  December  9th 1573 

25.  Antonio  Moniz  Barreto,  December  9th,  1673,  to  September     .  1576 

26.  Dom  Diogo  de  Menezes,  September,  1576,  to  August  Slst        .  1578 

27.  Dom  Luis  de  Athaide  {12th  Viceroy),  August  31st,  1578 ;  died, 

March  10th 1681 

28.  FemSo  Telles  de  Menezes,  March  13th,  1581,  to  September 

17th 1581 

29.  Dom  Francisco  Mascarenhas,  Count  of  Villa  de  Horta  (13th 

Viceroy),  September  16th,  1581,  to  November      .        .        .    1584 

30.  Dom  Duarte  de  Menezes,  Count  of  Tarouca  (14th  Viceroy), 

October26th,  1684;  died.  May  4th  .        .        .        .    .    1588 

31.  Manoel  de  Souza  Coutinho,  May  4th,  1588,  to  May  16th  .        .    1691 

32.  Mathias  de  Albuquerque  (15th  Viceroy),  May  16th,  1691 ;  re- 

turned to  Portugal,  May  25th       .       ■ 1597 

33.  Dom  Francisco  da  Gama,  Count  of  Vidigueira,  grandson  of 

Vasco  da  Gama  (16th  Viceroy),  May  26th,  1697,  to  Decem- 
ber 25th 1600 

34.  Aires  de  Saldanha  (17th  Viceroy),  December  26th,  1600,  to 

January  16th 1605 

35.  Martim  AflEonso  de  Castro  (18th  Viceroy),  January,  1606 ;  died 

at  Malacca,  June  3rd 1607 

36.  Dom  Fr.  Aleixo  de  Menezes,  Archbishop  of  Goa,  June  3rd, 

1607,  to  May  27th 1609 

37.  Andr6  Furtado  de  Mcndon9a,  May  27th,  1609;   recalled  to 

Portugal,  September  5th 1609 

38.  Buy  LoureuQo  de  Tavora  (19th  Viceroy),  September  5th,  1609, 

to  December  15th 1612 

39.  Dom  Jeronimo  de  Azevedo  (20th  Viceroy),  December  16th, 

1612,  to  November  18th        ....  .        .     1617 

40.  Dom  JoSo  Coutinho,  Count  of  Bedondo  (2l8t  Viceroy),  No- 

vember 18th,  1617  ;  died,  November  10th        ....    1619 

41.  Femao  de  Albuquerque,  November  11th,  1619,  to  December 

19th 1622 

42.  Dom  Francisco  da  Gama,  Count  of  Vidigueira  (22nd  Vice- 

roy), November  19th,  1622,  to  January  31st     ....     1627 

43.  Dom  Francisco  Luis  de  Brito,  January,  1627 ;  died,  July  29th    1628 

44.  Dom  Miguel  de  Noronha,  Count  of  Linhares  (23rd  Viceroy), 

December  21st,  1629,  to  December  8th 1635 

45.  Pero  da  Silva  (24th  Viceroy),  December  8th,  1635,  to  June  24th    1639 

46.  Antonio  Telles  de  Menezes,  October  4th,  1639,  to  September 

21st 1640 

47.  JoSo  da  Silva  Tello  de  Menezes,  Count  of  Aveiras  (25th  Vice- 

roy), 21st  September,  1640,  to  30th  December     .        ;        .    1646 


Sect  I.  OOVEBXOHS   AND   VICEROYS   OF   QOA.  23 

DATES 

48.  Dom   Felippe  Mascarenhas  (25th  Viceroy),  December  30tb, 

1646,  to  May  3l8t 1661 

49.  Dom  Vasco  Mascarenhas,  Count  of   Obidos  (27th  Viceroy), 

September  6th,  1652;  deposed  by  Dom  Bi*az  de  Castro, 
October  22nd 1668 

50.  Dom  Rodrigo  Lobo  da  Silveira,  Count  of  Sarzedas  (28th  Vice- 

roy), August  19th,  1635 ;  died,  January  3rd ....    1656 

51.  Antonio  de  Mello  e  Castro  (29th  Viceroy),  January  3rd,  1656,  to    1666 

52.  JoSo  Nunes  da  Cunha,  Count  of  St.  Vincent  (30th  Viceroy) 

ITthOctober,  1666;  died,  November  6th.        .        .        .    .     1668 
63.  Luis  de  Mendonga  Furtado  D'Albuquerque,  Count  of  Lavra- 

dio  (31st  Viceroy),  May  22nd,  1671,  to  October  30th        .     .    167T 

54.  Dom  Pedro  de  Almeida,  Count  of  Assumar  (32ud  Viceroy), 

October  30th,  1677 ;  died  at  Mozambique,  March    .        .     .     1678 

55.  Francisco  de  Tavora,  Count  of  Alvor  (33rd  Viceroy),  Septem- 

ber 12th,  1681,  to  3rd  December 1686 

56.  Dom  Rodrigo  da  Costa,  26th  March,  1686,  to  23rd  June       .    .  1690 

57.  Dom  Miguel  de  Almeida,  June,  1690 ;  died  9th  January  .        .  1691 

58.  Dom  Pedro  Antonio  de  Noronha,  Count  of  Villa  Verde  (34th 

Viceroy),  May  28th,  1693,  to  September  20th       .        .        .     1698 

59.  Antonio  Luiz  GonQalves  da  Camai-a  Coutinho  (35th  Viceroy), 

September  20th,  1693,  to  September  17th    .         .        .        .1701 

60.  Caetano  de  Mello   de  Castro  (36th  Viceroy),  October  2nd, 

1702  ;  returned  to  Portugal,  October  29th    .        .        .        .1707 

61.  Dom  Rodrigo  da  Castro  (37th  Viceroy),  28th  October,  1707,  to 

September  2l8t 1712 

62.  Vasco  Fernandez  Cesar  de  Menezes  (38th  Viceroy).  September 

2l8t,  1712,  to  January  13th 1717 

63.  Dom    SebastiSo    d'Andrade  Passanha,  Archbishop  of  Goa, 

January  13th,  1717,  to  October  16th 1717 

64.  Dom  Luiz  de  Menezes,  Count  of  Ericeira  (39th  Viceroy),  Octo- 

ber 16th,  1717,  to  September  14th 1720 

65.  Francisco  Jos6  de  Sampaio  e  Castro  (40th  Viceroy),  Septem- 

ber 14th,  1720;  died,  July  13  tli    1723 

66.  Dom  Christovao  de  Mello,  July  13th,  1723,  to  September  3rd  .     1723 

67.  JoSo  de  Saldanha  da  Gama  (41st  Viceroy),  October  28th,  1725, 

to  January  23rd     .        .        .        •. 1732 

68.  Dom  Pedro  Mascarenhas,  Count  of  Sandomil  (42nd  Viceroy), 

7th  October,  1732,  to  May  18th 1741 

69.  Dom  Luiz  de  Menezes,  Count  of  Ericeira  (43rd  Viceroy),  May 

18th,  1741 ;  died,  June  12th 1742 

70.  Dom  Pedro  Miguel  de  Almeida  e  Portugal,  Count  of  Assumar 

(44th  Viceroy),  September  24th,  1744,  to  September  27th    .    1750 

71.  Francisco  D'Assis,  Marquis  of  Tavora  (45th  Viceroy),  Septem- 

ber 27th,  1750,  to  September  18th 1754 

72.  Dom   Luiz    Mascarenhas,  Count   of   Alva    (46th   Viceroy), 

September  20th,  1754 ;  killed  by  the  Mardthas,  June  28th  .    1766 

73.  Manoel   de    Saldanha  D'Albuquerque,  Count  of  Ega    (47th 

Viceroy),  September  23rd,  1756,  to  19th  October  .        .        .     1765 

74.  Dom  JoSf)  Jos6  de  Mello,  14th  April,  1767;  died,  January 

10th 1774 

75.  Filippe  de  Valladores  Sou  to  Maior,  January  13th,  1774,  to 

September  24th 1774 

76.  Dom  Jose  Pedro  da  Camara,  September  24th,  1 774,  to  May  26th    1779 


34  INTRODUCTION.  Sect.  I. 

DATES. 

77.  Dom  Frederico  Guilhenne  de  Souza,  May  26th,  1779,  to  No- 

vember 3rd    .        .         . 1780 

78.  Francisco  da  Cnnha  e  Menezes,  November  3rd,  1786,  to  May 

22nd •  17^4 

79.  Francisco  Antonio  da  Veiga  Cabral,  22nd  May,  1794,  to  May 

30th       ,,...•; 1807 

80.  Bernardo  Jose  de  Lorena,  Count  of  Sarzedas  ('t8th  Viceroy), 

May  30th,  1807,  to  November  29th 1816 

81.  Dom  Diogo  de  Souza,  Count  of  Rio  Pardo  (49th  Viceroy), 

November,  1816 ;  deposed  in  the  rebellion,  September  16th  1821 

82.  Dom  Manoel  da  Camara  (50th  Viceroy),  November  18th,  1822; 

died  November  16th 1825 

83.  Dom  Manoel  de  Portugal  e  Castro  (51st  and  last  Viceroy), 

October  9th,  1827,  to  January  14th 1835 

84.  Bernardo  Peres  de  Silva,  native  of  Goa,  Prefect,  January  14th, 

1835  ;  deposed  in  February 1835 

86.  SimSo  Infante  de  Lucerda,  Baron  of  Sabroso,  November  23rd, 

1837  ;  died,  October  14th 1838 

86.  Job6  Antonio  Vieira  da  Fonseca,  March   5th,  1839,  to  No- 

vember 14th      . 1839 

87.  Manoel  Jos6  Mendes,  Baron  de  Candal,  November  15th,  1839  ; 

died,  April  18th 1840 

88.  Jos6  Joaquim  Lopes  de  Lima,  September  24th,  1840;  April  27th  1842 

89.  Francisco  Xavier  da  Silva  Pereira,  Count  of  Antas,  September 

19th,  1842,  to  April  25th 1843 

90.  Joaquim  MourSo  Garoez  PaJha,  April  25th,  1843,  to  May  20th.  1844 

91.  Jos6  Ferreira  Pestana,  May  20th,  1844,  to  January  loth      .    .  1851 

92.  Jos6  Joaquim  Januario  Lapa,  Vt.  of  Villa  Nova  d'Ourem, 

January  15th,  1851,  to  May  6th 1855 

93.  Antonio  Cesar  de  Vasconcellos  Correa,  Viscount  of  Torres  Novas, 

November  3rd,  1855,  to  December  18th    .        .        .        •    .  1864 

94.  Jo86  Ferreira  Pestana,  December  25th,  1864,  to  May  7th         .  1870 
96.  Januario  Corrua  de  Almeida,  Vt.  of  St.  Januario,  May  7th. 

1870,  to  December  12th '.  1871 

96.  Joaquim  Jos6  Macfedo  eConto,  December  12th,l 871,  to  May  10th  1875 

97.  Joao  Tavares  de  Almeida,  May  10th,  1875,  to  July  24th  .        .  1877 

98.  Antonio  Serges  de  Souza,  November  12th,  1877;  died.  May  2rd  1878 

99.  Caetano  Alexandre  de  Almeida  e  Albuquerque,  May  9th,  1878, 

present  Governor. 

ArcJihisJiops  of  Goa, 

1.  Dom  Fr.  JoSo  de  Albuquerque 1538 — 1653 

2.  Dom  Gaspar  de  LeSo  Pereira,  1st  Archbishop  1560;  resigned  1567 

3.  Dom  Fr.  Jorge  Themudo,  Bishop  of  Cochin  1567  to  April  29th,  1571 

4.  Dom  Gaspar  de  LeSo  Pereira,  2nd  time  ;  died  15th  August      .  1576 
6.  Dom  Fr.  Henrique  de  Tavora,  Bp.  of  Cochin  .        .        .    1578 — 1580 

6.  Dom  Fr.  Vicente  da  Fonseca 1580—1686 

7.  Dom  Fr.  Matheus  de  Medina,  transferi-ed  from  Cochin  1688  ; 

resigned 1692 

8.  Dom  Fr.  Andr6  de  Santa  Maria,  Bp.  of  Cochin      .        .     1693 — 1595 

9.  Dom  Fr.  Alejxo  de  Menezes,  1st  Primate  of  the  East .        1696—1610 

Went  then  to  Portugal. 

10.  Dom  Fr.  Christovao  de  Sd  e  Lisboa,  1616  ;  died  31st  March    .  1622 

11.  Dom  Fr,  Sebastigo  de  S,  Pedro,  1626  ;  died  7tli  November      .  162^ 


Sect.  I,  EVENTS    CONNECTING    INDIA   WITH    EUROPE.  25 

DATl-S. 

12.  Dom  Fr.  Miguel  Uongel,  succeeded  Dom  Manoel  Telles  de 

Brito,  who  died  on  the  passage  out  from  Portugal        .        .    1C34 

13.  Dom  Fr.  Francisco  dos  Martyres,  21st  Oct.  163(;  ;  died  25th 

November 1G52 

The  See  was  now  vacant  22  years. 

14.  Dom  Fr.  Antonio  de  BrandSo,  24th  Sept.,  1675  ;  died  Gth  July  1678 

15.  Dom  Manoel  de  Souza  e  Menezes,  20tn  Sept.,  1681 — Slst  Jan.  1684 

16.  Dom  Alberto  de  Silva,  24th  Sept.,  1687— 18th  April         .        .  1688 

17.  Dom  Fr.  Pedro  de  Silva,  1689— loth  March         ....  1691 

18.  Dom  Fr.  Agostinho  de  Annuncia^So,  1691 — 6th  July        .         .  1713 

19.  Dom  Sebasti&o  de  Andrade  Pessanha,  24th  S^pt.,  1716^25th 

Jan 1721 

20.  Dom  Ignacio  de  Santa  Thereza,  1721—1739  ;  translated  to 

Bishopric  of  AJgarve  in  Portugal. 

21.  Dom  Clemento  Jo86        . 1739—1742 

22.  Dom  Francisco  VasconceUes,    20th  December,  1742  ;    died 

March  30th 1743 

23.  Dom  Ft.  Louren^o  de  Santa  Maria        ....     1744—1750 

24.  Dom  Antonio  Taveira  da  Neiva  Brun  da  Silveira,  September 

23rd,  1750,  to  March  4th 1775 

25.  Dom  Francisco  de  Assump^ao  e  Brito,  March,  1775,  to  Feb.  5th  1780 

26.  Dom  Fr.  Manoel  de  S.  Catharina,  Febniary  1780— February    .  1812 

27.  Dom  Fr.  Manoel  de  Sfto  Galdino,  Feb.  18th,  1812  to  July  15th  1831 

28.  Dom  Jos6  Maria  de  Silva  Tones,  March  7th,  1844,  to  26th 

March,  1849,  when  he  returned  to  Portugal. 

29.  Dom  Jofio  Chrysostomo  d'Amorin  e  Pessoa,  3rd  of  January      .    1863 

Returned  to  Portugal,  February  5th,  1869  ;  resigned       .    .    1874 

30.  Dom  Ayres  de  Omebas  e  VaRconcellos,  arrived  Dccemljer  27th    1875 

Meniarkahle  JScenfjf  oonmcthig  India  with  Evrojte, 

Odoricus,  an  Italian  Friar,  visits  ThAnd 1300 

Vasco  da  Gama  reaches  KAlikod  (Calicut)  by  sea  .  .  .  .1498 
Albuquerque,  the  Portuguese  admiral,  bums  Kdlikod,  but  is  at  last 

driven  off 1510 

Goa  captured  by  the  Portuguese  ;  retaken  by  the  natives ;  ceded 

to  the  Portuguese 1510 

The  Zamorin  permits  the  Portuguese  to  build  a  fort  at  KAlikod     .    1613 

Bombay  occupied  by  the  Portuguese 1532 

Bassin,  Salsette,  and  Bombay  ceded  to  the  Portuguese  by  Sultdn 

BahAdur,  King  of  Gujarat 1534 

The  Venetian  merchant,  Caesar  Frederick,  reaches  A^maddbAd  .  1563 
Thomas  Stephens,  of  New  College,  Oxford,  reaches  Goa  in  October, 

and  Sir  Francis  Drake  lands  at  Temate,  and  subsequently  at 

Java 1579 

A  land  expedition,  organized  by  the  Levant  Company,  reaches 

India 1589 

Petition  presented  by  101  merchants  and  others  to  Elizabeth  for  a 

charter  to  trade  with  India 1599 

John  Mildenhall  sent  as  Ambassador  to  Agra,  which  he  reaches  in  1603 
Charter  for  15  years  to  "  The  Governor  and  Company  of  Merchants 

of  London  trading  to  the  East  Indies  " 1600 

A  fleet  from  Torbay  reaches  Acheen  in  Sumatra,  and  Bantam  in 

Java,eBtablishing  factories  in  each  place 1601 


2(5  ixTRODucTiox.  Sect.  I. 

DATKS. 

Second  Charter,  by  which  the  East  India  Company  is  made  a  cor- 
porate body,  with  the  retention  of  a  power  to  dissolve  them  at 
three  years'  notice.     Captain  Hawkins  of  the  Hector  reaches 
Agra  with  a  letter  to  Jahdnglr.    The  Dutch  occupy  Palikat       .    1609 
The  Mughul  Emperor  issues  2kfarmAn^  permitting  the  English  to 

establish  factories  at  Surat,  Al^mad^b^d,  Ehambdyat,  and  Gogo    1611 
Captain  Best,  with  the  Dragon  and  Hosiander^  defeats  the  Portu- 
guese squadron  at  Sarat,  and  receives  a  farman^  authorising  an 
English  Envoy  to  reside  at  Agra,  and  the  English  to  trade  with 

Surat 1612 

Sir  Thomas  Koe,  Ambassador  to  Jahdnglr,  reaches  India  .  .  1615 
The  Danish  settlement  of  Tallangamb^  (Tranquebar)  founded  .  1617 
The  Dutch  and  English  Companies  contend  for  the  exclusive  trade 

with  the  Spice  Islands 1618 

The  Dutch  assign  to  the  English  a  share  of  the  pepper  trade  with 

Java  and  with  Palikat 1619 

Sir  Robert  Shirley  courteously  received  by  Jahdngir  at  Agra  .  1619 
The  East  India  Company  receive  permission  to  exercise  martial 

law  in  India 1624 

The  English  open  trade  with  DurgarazApatnam 1625 

Treaty  with  Portugal,  by  which  the  English  are  allowed  to  trade 

with  Portuguese  ports  in  India 1635 

Gabriel  Boughton,  surgeon  of  the  Company's  ship  Hopewclly  cures 
the  daughter  of  Shdh  Jahdn  and  the  favourite  mistress  of  the 
Niiwdb  of  Beagal,  and  so  obtains  for  the  Company  the  right  to 
trade  throughout  the  dominions  of  the  Great  Mughul      .        .     .     1636 
The  English  remove  from  I)jirgarAzdpatnam  to  Madras  .        .        .     1639 
Fort  St.  George  built  at  Madras  .        .  " "    .        .        .        ...    1641 

Fort  St.  George  constituted  a  Presidency 1654 

New  Charter  for  seven  years 1657 

Forts  on  Malabar  coasts  placed  under  Surat,  Bengal  under  Madras  1658 
The  Dutch  take  Ndgapatnam  from  the  Portuguese,  and  make  it 

their  capital  on  that  coast    .        . 1660 

Bombay  ceded  to  England  by  the  Portuguese  as  part  of  the  Infanta 
Catherina's  dower  on  her  marriage  with  Charles  II.,  the  Xlth 
Article  of  which  states  "  ceded  for  better  improvement  of  Eng- 
lish interest  and  commerce  in  the  East  Indies,"  June  23rd  .  1661 
A  New  Charter  confirms  former  privileges,  with  the  right  to  make 
peace  and  war,  to  exercise  civil  and  criminal  jurisdiction,  and  . 

send  unlicensed  persons  to  England 1661 

Marriage  of  Charles  IL  with  Catherine  of  Braganza,  May  21st        .     1662 
Earl  of  Marlborough  and  Sir  Abraham  Shipman  with  5  men-of-war 
and  500  soldiers  arrive  at  Bombay,  <o  occupy  the  island  in  fulfil- 
ment of  the  Treaty,  September 1662 

Sir  Abraham  Shipman  having  died  with  most  of  his  men  at  Anja- 
deva,  his  secretary  Cooke  makes  a  convention  with  the  Portu- 
guese, which  Charles  II.  refuses  to  ratify.  Sir  Gervase  Lucas 
succeeds  Cooke,  and  estimates  the  population  of  Bombay  at 

10,000,  and  the  revenue  at  £6,490  17*.  id 1663 

French  East  India  Company  established.  Defence  of  Surat  by  the 
English  against  Shivaji,  for  which  they  are  rewarded  with  fresh 

privileges  by  Aurangzib 1664 

Island  of  Bombay  granted  by  Charles  II.  to  the  East  India  Com- 
pany       ....  .        .        .        .    ,    1668 


Sect.  I.  EVENTS  CONNECTING   INDIA  WITH   EUROPE.  27 

Dates, 

The  natives  destroy  the  English  factory  at  HonAwar,  and  murder 
every  Englishman 1670 

St.  Helena  granted  by  Royal  Charter  to  the  Company        .       .    .    1673 

Dr.  John  Fryer  visits  Bombay,  and  reckons  population  at  60,000  .    1675 

Bombay  revolts  under  Captain  Keigwin  .        .        .        .        .    1683 

Admiral  Sir  Thomas  Grantham  arrives  in  Bombay,  and  Keigwin 
submits  to  his  authority 1684 

Bombay  made  a  Regency,  with  sway  over  all  the  Company's  estab- 
lishments. Puducheri  (Pondicherry)  colonized  by  the  French. 
English  driven  from  Hugli,  and  allowed  to  return      .        .        .     1687 

Fort  St.  David  built.    Y'akiib  Khdn  Sldl,  the  Imperial  Admiral, 

lands  in  Bombay  with  25,000  men,  and  takes  MazagAon         .    .    1689 

Chaplain  Ovington's  visit  to  Bombay  described  in  "  Voyage  to 
Surat" 1689 

Charter  forfeited  for  non-payment  of  5  per  cent,  levied  on  all  Joint 
Stock  Companies,  but  on  October  1st  a  new  charter  granted  by 
the  King 1693 

New  Company  incorporated  under  the  name  of  "  The  English 
Company."  The  old  Company,  called  **  The  London  Company," 
ordered  to  cease  trading  in  three  years.  Calcutta  purchased  by 
the  old  Company,  and  Fort  William  built 1698 

The  old  Company  obtain  an  Act  authorizing  them  to  trade  under 
the  charter  of  the  new  Company 1700 

Lord  Godolphin's  Award,  by  which  the  two  Companies  are  united 
under  the  title  of  "  The  United  Company  of  Merchants  of  Eng- 
land trading  to  the  East  Indies."  Three  Presidencies  estab- 
lished, and  a  Governor,  with  the  title  of  General,  and  a  Council 
appointed  for  Bombay,  29th  of  Sept 1708 

An  Act  passed  (9  Anne,  c.  7)  that  no  person  shall  be  a  Director  of 
the  East  India  Company  and  a  Director  of  the  Bank  of  England 
at  the  same  time 1711 

July.  Deputies  from  the  Company  arrive  at  DilU,  and  on  the 
6th  of  January,  1717,  ohtaXn  a  farmdn  exempting  their  trade 
from  duties,  and  allowing  them  to  possess  land  round  their  fac- 
tories            ,        .        .        .     1715 

Ostend  East  India  Company  formed 1717 

The  Emperor  of  Germany  grants  a  charter  to  the  Ostend  Company, 
under  which  they  carry  on  a  successful  trade  .        .        .    .     1723 

Charter  renewed  till  Lady-day,  17G9.  The  Company  accept  4  per 
cent,  interest  for  £3,200,000  lent  to  Government,  and  pay  a  pre- 
mium of  £200,000         1730 

Swedish  India  Company  formed 1731 

Malhdr  Rdo  Holkar  takes  Thdnd  from  the  Portuguese,  his  loss 
being  5,000  men  and  that  of  the  Portuguese  800.    May  16th       \    1739 

The  Company  lend  £1,000,000  to  Government,  and  obtain  an  ex- 
tension of  privileges  to  1783.  Commencement  of  the  contest 
between  England  and  France  in  India 1744 

War  declared  between  England  and  France.  A  French  fleet 
anchors  12  miles  S.  of  Madras,  and  lands  a  force  under  Labour- 
donnais.  Madras  capitulates  after  a  bombardment  of  five  days. 
Labourdonniais  signs  a  treaty  to  restore  the  town  on  a  ransom 
being  paid.  This  treaty  violated  by  Dupleix,  Governor  of  Pudu- 
cheri       174G 

December  19th.    Dupleix  fails  in  an  attach  on  Fort  St.  David  .    .    1717 


28  ixTBODUCTiox.  Sect.  I. 

DATES. 

The  English  lay  siege  to  Puducheri,  but  without  success.  Treaty 
of  Aix-la-Chapelle,  by  which  Madras  is  restored  to  the 
English 1748 

Sdhuji  RAjA  of  Tanjiir,  dethroned  by  his  cousin,  calls  in  the  aid  of 
the  English,  who,  after  one  repulse,  take  Devlkota,  which  was 
to  be  the  guerdon  of  their  assistance.  They  then  desert  their 
ally,  and  conclude  a  treaty  with  PratAp  Sing.  Clive  leads  the 
storming  party  at  Devikota.    The  war  in  the  Karndtak  begins  .    1749 

Pun  A  made  capital  of  the  Mardthas 1750 

Mul^ammad  'All,  claimant  of  the  Niiw^bship  of  the  Eamdtak, 
whose  cause  is  espoused  by  the  English,  takes  refuge  in  Trichi- 
ndpalli,  which  is  besieged  by  the  French,  under  M.  Lally  and 
Chanda  Sdhib.  The  siege  ends  in  their  utter  discomfiture. 
Clive  takes  Arcot,  and  defends  it  against  overwhelming  odds     .    1751 

Dupleix  superseded.  December  26th.  Treaty  of  peace  signed  at 
Puducheri — the  French  and  English  withdraw  from  interference 
in  the  afEairs  of  the  Native  Pi'inces 1754 

Commodore  James  takes  Suwamdurg  and  Bankot  from  Angria, 
the  Mardtha  piratical  chief 1756 

February  11th.  Angria  taken  prisoner,  and  his  forts  destroyed,  by 
Admiral  Watson  and  Colonel  Clive,  assisted  by  the  troops  of  the 
Peshwd.  June  18th.  Calcutta  attacked  by  Sir^jA'd-daulah.  The 
tragedy  of  the  Black  Hole 175C 

January  2nd.  Calcutta  retaken.   June  23rd.  Battle  of  Plassy.    Mir 

,    J'afar  made  §iibal?dAr  of  Bengal  in  room  of  Sirdju'd-daulah. 

War  renewed  in  the  B[am6.tak.    English  take  Madura       .        .     1757 

April  28th.  Count  de  Lally  arrives  at  Fort  St.  David  with  a  French 
fleet,  and  an  indecisive  action  is  fought  next  day.  June  1st. 
Lally  takes  Fort  St.  David,  and  razes  the  fortifications.  June 
11th.  A  commission  arrives  in  Bengal  from  the  Directors,  ap- 
pointing a  Council  of  ten,  with  a  Governor  for  each  three 
months.  All  invite  Clive  to  assume  the  Government.  October 
4th.  Lally  takes  Arcot;  and  on  December  11th  lays  siege  to 
Madras 1758 

February  19th.  Lally  retires  from  before  Madras.  April  6th.  The 
English  take  Machhlipatnam.  The  Nizdm  engages  not  to  permit 
the  French  to  settle  in  his  dominions.  November  9th.  Wande- 
wash  taken 1759 

February  9th.  Arcot  taken  by  the  English.  July.  Vansittart  suc- 
ceeds Clive  as  Governor  of  Bengal.  Clive  sails  for  England  ui 
February.  Mir  KAsim  succeeds  Mir  J'afar  as  Siibal^dAr  of  Ben- 
gal. Sept.  27th.  Revenues  of  Vardhawdn  (Burdwdn),  Midnapiir, 
and  ChittagAon  ceded  to  the  English  by  Mir  Edsim        .        .    .     1760 

January  7th.  Battle  of  Pdnipat.  14th.  Puducheri  taken  by  the 
English.  Fall  of  the  French  power  in  the  Dakhan.  Shdh  'Alam 
IL  defeated  at  Patna  by  Major  Camac.  Treaty  with  Shdh 
'Alam,  who  acknowledges  Mir  Kdsim  on  payment  of  £240,000 
per  annum 17G1 

February  10..  Puducheri  and  other  forts  restored  to  the  French  by 
the  treaty  of  Paris.  June  25th.  Mr.  Ellis,  with  a  body  of  troops, 
attacked  and  made  prisoners  by  Mir  Kdsim  at  Patna.  July. 
The  English  agree  to  restore  Mir  J'afar.  Nov.  6th.  Patna  taken 
by  the  English :  Mir  Kdsim  seeks  shelter  with  the  Niiwdb  of 
AVadh  (Oude)    .      .     '   .        .         .        .        .        .        .        .    .     1763 


Sect.  I.  EVENTS   CONNECTING   INDIA   WITH   EUROPE.  29 

DATES 

Mr.  Ellig,  chief  of  the  Factory  at  Patna,  and  200  English,  murdered 
at  Patna  by  Sumroo,  an  officer  in  the  service  of  Mir  Kdsim, 

October    1763 

October  23rd.  Battle  of  Buxar 1764 

Death  of  Mir  J'afar  at  Calcutta.  His  son,  Najmu'd-daulah,  suc- 
ceeds him.  May  3rd.  Lord  Olive  arrives  at  Calcutta  as  Governor- 
General.  August  12th.  The  DiwAnl,  or  Revenue  of  Bengal, 
Bahdr,  and  (Srissa  granted  to  the  Company  by  Shdh  'Alam 
IL •        .        .     1765 

May  8th.  N&jmu'd-daulah  dies,  and  is  succeeded  by  his  brother, 
§aifu'd-daulah.  The  NiajAm  (Nigdm  'AH)  cedes  the  N.  SarkAi-s 
to  the  English  for  5  Idkhs  per  annum 1766 

January.  Lord  Olive  sails  for  England.  September.  The  troops  of 
the  NiJ^Am  and  Haidar  'All  attack  the  English        .        .        .    .    1767 

Treaty  with  the  Nig^m,  who  cedes  the  Kam&tak,  Bdldghdt,  and 
reduces  the  tribute  for  the  Barkers.  The  English  attack  Gaidar 
'AH 1768 

April  4th.  Qaidar,  at  the  gates  of  Madras,  forces  the  English  to 
conclude  a  peace 1769 

March  10th.  §aifu'd-daulah  dies,  and  is  succeeded  by  his  brother, 
MubAraku'd-daulah 1770 

War  between  Etaidar  and  the  Mardthas.  Shdh  'Alam  II.  enters 
Dim  with  the  Mardthas  .        .       * 1771 

July.  Mardthas  make  peace  with  ^aidar 1772 

AUdhdbdd  and  Korah  sold  to  the  Niiwdb  of  AJwadh  (Oude)  for  50 
Idkhs  ;  the  Niiwdb  agrees  with  Warren  Hastings  to  pay  40  Idkhs 
for  the  reduction  of  Rohilkhand.  Tanjiir  taken  by  the  English 
on  the  16th  of  Sept.,  at  the  instigation  of  the  Niiwdb  of  the 
Kanidtak,  and  the  Rdjd  handed  over  to  the  Niiwdb.  The  Dutch 
expelled  by  the  English  from  Ndgapatnam.  June.  Act  to  lend 
the  Company  £1,400,000  at  4  per  cent.  Act  to  regulate  the 
votes  of  Proprietors  of  East  India  Stock,  giving  one  vote  to 
holders  from  £500  to  £1000,  two  votes  from  £1000  to  £3000, 
three  from  £3000  to  £6000,  four  from  £6000  to  £10,000.  Six 
Directors  to'  go  out  by  rotation.  The  other  Presidencies  sub- 
ordinated to  Bengal.    Supreme  Court  established  at  Calcutta    .    1773 

April  23rd.  The  RohiUas  defeated  by  the  EngUsh.  Dec.  28th. 
Salsette  and  Bassln  taken  by  the  Bombay  troops         .        .        .    1774 

March  6th,  Treaty  between  the  Bombay  Government  and  Raghubd, 
the  deposed  Peshwd,  who  cedes  Salsette  and  Bassln,  and  the 
revenues  of  Bhanich.  May.  The  Bombay  army  march  to  the 
aid  of  Raghubd,  and  gain  several  successes.  The  Supreme 
Government  disapprove  of  the  proceedings  of  the  Bombay  Go- 
vernment, who  are  compelled  to  withdraw  their  troops,  where- 
upon Raghubd  retreats  to  Surat.  A^afu'd-daulah,  Niiwdb  of 
Awadh,  cedes  Bandras  to  the  Company,  who  guarantee  to  him 
by  treaty  AUdhdbdd  and  Korah.  Deceml)er  11th.  Lord  Pigot 
succeeds  to  the  Government  of  Madras 1775 

April  11th.  Rdjd  of  Tanjiir  restored.  August  5th.  Nand  Kumdr 
hanged  for  forgery.  Lord  Pigot  (August  24th)  aiTCsted  by 
two  suspended  members  of  Council  and  their  faction,  and  im- 
prisoned         1776 

July.  Ohandran^ar  (Chandemagore),  Machhlipatnam,  and  Ka- 
rikal  taken  from  the  French,    August  10th.  The  French  fleet 


30  INTRODUCTION.  Sect.  I. 

DATES. 

defeated  off  Puducheri,  and  driven  from  the  coast  by  the  English. 
October,  ruducheri  sun-enders.  Hastings  tenders  his  resigna- 
tion to  the  Court  of  Dii-ectors,  who  accept  it,  but  he  subse- 
quently disowns  it 1777 

January  4th.  Expedition  to  PunA  to  support  Raghubd.  It  fails, 
however,  and  the  English  are  compelled  to  sign  a  treaty,  by 
which  they  give  up  RaghubA  and  all  their  acquisitions  since  1756. 
January  30th.  General  Goddard's  celebrated  march  across  India. 
He  reaches  Burhdnpiir  in  the  Ni?:.dm's  country,  leaves  it  on  the 
6th  of  February,  and  reaches  Surat  on  the  26th  ....     1779 

January  15th.  Convention  of  Wargdoii,  by  which  everything  taken 
from  the  Mardthas  since  1773  was  restored  to  them  January  15th    1779 

January  2nd.  General  Goddard  crosses  the  Taptl,  and  takes  Dabhoi 
(Jan.  20th),  and  A^maddbM  (Feb.  15th),  and  April  5th  he 
defeats  Sindhia.  August  25th.  Sir  Hector  Munro  arrives  from 
Madras  to  oppose  Gaidar.  September  10th.  BaiUie's  defeat  and 
surrender.  11th.  The  English  retreat,  and  reach  Madras  on  the 
13th.  October  31st.  IJaidar  takes  Arcot.  November  5tlL  Sir 
Eyre  Coote  arrives  at  Madi'as  with  reinforcements  .        .    .    1780 

January  17th.  Advance  of  Sir  E.  Coote.  July  1st.  He  defeats 
Gaidar  near  Porto  Novo,  and  returns  to  Madras  in  November. 
June  22nd.  Lord  Macartney  arrives  at  Madras  as  Governor. 
Sadras,  Palikat,  and  Ndgapatnam  taken  from  the  Dutch.  Octo- 
ber 24th.  Judgeship  of  §a!dr  DlwAni  given  by  W.  Hastings  to 
Sir  Elijah  Impey,  already  Chief  Judge  of  the  Supreme  Court. 
The  Commons  recall  Impey  in  May  following.  The  Company's 
Charter  renewed  by  21  Geo.  III.,  c.  65,  till  March,  1794  ;  tlie 
Company  to  pay  £400,000,  and  to  be  allowed  a  dividend  of 
8  per  cent 1781 

General  Goddard  retreats  from  Kampuli  to  Panwell  with  the  loss 
of  438  rank  and  file,  and  18  European  officers  killed  and 
wounded,  pursued  by  the  Marathas  under  Hari  Paiit  and 
Parshurdm  BhAo  and  Tukoji  Holkar,  April  23rd         .        .        .     1781 

February  18th.  Colonel  Brathwaite,  with  100  Europeans,  300 
cavalry,  and  1,500  Sipdhls,  after  a  gallant  defence  of  two  days, 
overpowered  by  Tlp\i,  and  his  whole  force  cut  to  pieces  or  made 
prisoners.  The  battle  took  place  about  40  miles  from  Tanjiir, 
on  the  Koleriin  river.  19th.  The  French  land  2000  men  to  aid 
Tlpii.  April  12th.  Indecisive  action  between  the  fleets  of  Ad- 
miral Hughes  and  the  French  Admiral  Suffrein.  August  31st. 
The  French  take  Trinkomali.  September  8th.  Action  between 
the  fleets,  in  which  the  English  have  the  advantage.  Dec.  7th, 
Death  of  Gaidar 'AH 1782 

General  Matthews  takes  Bedniir.  March.  M.  Bussy  lands  at 
Gudaliir  (Cuddalore).  General  Stuart,  who  had  succeeded  Sir 
Eyre  Coote,  being  ordered  to  march  on  Gudaliir,  refuses,  but 
sets  out  on  the  21st  of  April  at  the  rate  of  2^  miles  a  day.  He 
attacks  Gudaliir  on  the  13th  of  June,  and  is  repulsed  with  the 
loss  of  62  officers  and  920  men,  nearly  all  Europeans,  kiUed  or 
mortally  wounded.  Indecisive  action  between  Hughes  and 
Suffrein.  General  Stuart's  army  saved  by  the  peace  between 
the  English  and  the  French  :  he  is  arrested  and  sent  to  England. 
The  French  possessions  in  India  restored  in  pursuance  of  the 
treaty  of  Versailles.    Trinkomali  restored  to  the  Dutch.    Tipii 


Sect.  I.  EVENTS   CONNECTING   INDIA   WITH   EUROPE  31 

DATES. 

retakes  Bedniir,  where  Colonel  Macleod  had  superseded  General 
Matthews.  The  English  army  made  prisoners,  and  treated 
with  great  cruelty  by  Tlpii 1783 

January  24th.  The  Englisn  garrison  of  Mangali!Lr,  which  had  been 
besieged  by  Tipii  since  May  23rd,  1783,  capitulates,  and  marches 
out  with  all  the  honours  of  war.  March  11th.  Peace  with 
Tipii ;  conquests  on  both  sides  restored.  August  13th.  Mr. 
Pitt's  Bill,  24  Geo.  in.,  c.  25,  estabUshes  Board  of  Control     .    .     1784 

Pulo  Penang,  or  Prince  of  Wales'  Island,  purchased  by  the  Com- 
pany, and  occupied  July  6th.  26  Geo.  III.,  c.  16,  empowers 
Govemor-Genei^  to  act  in  opposition  to  his  Council ;  c.  25 
grants  the  power  of  recall  of  the  Governor-General  to  the  Crown    1786 

February  13tii.  Trial  of  Warren  Hastings  began.  Defence  began 
June  2nd,  1791 ;  acquitted  April  23rd,  1795.  The  Court  grant 
him  an  annuity  of  £4,000  for  28|  years  from  the  24th  of  June, 
1785.     September.  Guntiir  ceded  by  the  Ni?;&m  ....    1788 

Decennial  land  settlement  in  Bengal  began ;  the  same  in  Bah&r 
next  year  :  the  whole  completed  in  1793,  when  it  was  declared 
perpetuaL  This  is  the  permanent  settlement  of.  Lord  Corn- 
wallis,  by  which  the  Zamind^rs  were  declared  landowners,  they 
having  been  only  the  revenue  agents  of  the  Mughul  Government, 
December  24th.  Tipii  attacks  the  lines  of  Travankor      .        .    .    1789 

May  7th.  Tipii  ravages  part  of  Travankor.  June.  Alliance  be- 
tween the  English,  Mar^thas,  and  &g  Nigdm  against  him  : 
signed  by  the  Mar^t^As  on  the  1st  of  June,  by  the  Ni^^m  on  the 
4th  of  July.    June  13th.   General  Meadows  opens  the  campaign    1790 

February  5th.  Lord  Comwallis  marches  to  V^lilr.  March  21st. 
Takes  Bengaliir.  May  26th.  The  English,  on  their  retreat  owing 
to  disease,  are  joined  by  the  Mar^thas.  July.  The  allies  reach 
Bengaliir 1791 

February  6th.  The  allies  storm  the  redoubts  at  Shrlrangpatnam 
(Seringapatam).  March  9th.  Tipii  signs  treaty,  by  which  he 
agrees  to  pay  £3,300,900,  and  to  give  his  two  eldest  sons  as 
hostages 1792 

Zila  or  District  Courts  for  Civil  Causes  established  in  Bengal ; 
Courts  of  Appeal  at  Calcutta,  Patna,  Dhdka  (Dacca)  and  Mur- 
shidAbdd  ;  ^adr  DlwAni  'AdAlat  (Final  Civil  Appeal)  at  Cal- 
cutta, and  §adr  Nis;4mat  'Adalat  (Final  Criminal  Appeal).  Pu- 
ducheri  and  other  French  settlements  taken  for  the  third  time. 
New  Charter  for  20  years  ;  salaries  of  Commissioners  of  Board 
of  Control  to  be  paid  by  the  Company  ;  the  Commissioners  not 
necessarily  to  be  Privy  Councillors.  Company  to  provide  300 
tons  of  shipping  for  private  traders 1793 

Sons  of  Tlpii  restored  to  him 1794 

The  Mardthas  defeat  the  Ni^dm  and  compel  him  to  cede  territory. 
The  Dutch  settlements  in  Ceylon,  at  Banda,  Amboyna,  Malacca, 
and  the  Cape  taken.     Cochin  surrenders  after  a  gallant  defence    1795 

September  1st.  Treaty  with  the  Ni^dm,  by  which  he  agrees  to  dis- 
band his  French  Contingent  and  receive  four  battalions  of 
English 1798 

May  4th.  Seringapatam  stormed,  and  Tipii  slain.  Partition  Treaty 
of  Maistir  between  the  Ni|;dm  and  the  English.  October  25th. 
Treaty  with  the  RAj4  of  Tanjiir,  "  by  which  he  surrenders  his 
power  to  the  £ngli£^,  receiving  a  Idkh  of  pagodas  as  pension, 


32  INTRODUCTION.  Sect.  I. 

DATES. 

and  one-fifth  of  the  net  revenue."     December  29th.  Sir  J.  Mal- 
colm sails  fi'om  Bombay  as  Ambassador  to  Persia   .        .        .     .    1799 

May  l.Sth.  The  Niiw^b  of  Burat  compelled  to  sign  away  his  go- 
vernment for  a  pension  of  £10,000  per  annum.  October  12th. 
Subsidiary  Treaty  with  the  Ni?;dm,  who  gives  up  his  share  of 
Maisilir  in  consideration  of  English  protection     ....     1800 

July  16th.  On  the  death  of  the  NiiwAb  of  the  Karnatak  the 
English  demand  that  his  heir,  *A11  Qusain,  shall  sign  away  his 
power,  and  on  his  refusal  raise  'Azimu'd-daulah,  his  nephew,  to 
the  throne  on  that  condition.  October  14th.  Jeswant  RAo  Holkar 
defeated  at  the  battle  of  Indi!ir  (Jndore)  by  Daulat  Rdo  Sindhia. 
November  14th.  The  NiiwAb  of  Awadh  compelled  to  cede  Rohil- 
khand  and  the  Do4b  to  the  company.  Puducheri  restored  to 
the  French  in  pursuance  of  the  treaty  of  Amiens    .        .        .    .    1801 

June  4th.  The  NiiwAb  of  Farrukh^bM  compelled  to  cede  his  ter- 
ritory to  the  English  for  a  pension  of  108,000  rupees  per  annum. 
October  25th.  Jeswant  RAo  Holkar  defeats  Sindhia  near  PunA, 
whereupon  the  PeshwA  flies  to  Bassin,  leaving  with  the  English 
Resident  an  engaigement  to  subsidize  a  body  of  English  troops. 
The  Governor-General  ratifies  the  engagement,  and  agrees  to 
restore  the  PeshwA.  December  31st.  Treaty  of  Bassin,  by  which 
the  PeshwA  agreed  not  to  hold  intercourse  with  any  State  except 
in  concert  with  the  English  Government,  and  to  cede  territory 
for  the  support  of  the  contingent  furnished  by  the  Company      .    1802 

March.  The  Madras  army,  under  General  Wellesley,  march  on 
Puna,  which  they  reach  on  the  20th  of  April.  May  13th.  The 
l*eshw4  is  escorted  back  to  Pun  A  by  British  troops.  August  12th. 
General  Wellesley  takes  Al^madnagar ;  September  23rd,  gains 
the  victory  of  Assaye  over  Sindhia  and  the  RAjA  of  NAgpur  ; 
taked  BurhAnplir  October  13th,  and  Asirgarh  October  2lst ;  de- 
feats Sindhia  at  Argaum  November  28th,  and  takes  GAvelgai*h 
December  15th.  General  Lake  takes  *Aliga]*h  on  the  30th  of 
August,  defeats  the  MarAthas  near  Dilli,  i^ptember  12th,  and 
enters  Dilll,*  where  he  captures  the  Emperor  and  his  family ; 
enters  Agra  October  17th,  and  gains  the  victoiy  of  LaswAdi 
November  Ist.  December  17th.  The  RAjA  of  NAgpiir  cedes 
Katak  (Cuttack)  and  agrees  to  admit  no  Europeans  but  the 
English  into  his  dominions.  December  29th.  Sindhia  cedes 
A^madnagar,  Bhariich,  and  his  forts  in  the  DoAb,  with  a  like 
clause  about  the  exclusion  of  Europeans.  Puducheri  taken 
again 1803 

February  27th.  Treaty  of  BurhAnpiir  with  Sindhia,  who  agrees  to 
receive  and  support  a  British  contingent.  April  16th.  "War 
declared  against  Holkar.  August  24th.  Colonel  Murray  takes 
Indilb*.  October  8th.  Holkar  attacks  Dilli,  but  after  a  nine  days' 
siege  is  repulsed  by  Lieut.-Colonel8  Bum  and  Ochterlony. 
November  13th.  General  Frazer  defeats  Holkar  at  the  battle  of 
Dig  (Deeg)  and  takes  87  guns.    December  4th.  The  Fort  of  Dig 

taken 1804 

January  3rd.  Siege  of  Bhartpiir  (Bhurtpore)  began,  and  lasted 
till  the  22nd  of  February,  when  Lord  Lake  determined  to  retreat, 
having  lost  2334  men  in  killed  and  wounded  before  the  place. 
April  10th.  The  Bharatpiir  RAjA  signs  a  treaty,  by  which  he 
agrees  to  pay  20  lakhs,  cede  ccTtain  districts,  and  deliver  his 


Sect.  I.  EVENTS  CONNECTING   INDIA  WITH  EUROPE.  33 

DATES. 

eldest  son  as  hostage.  October  5tli.  Marquis  Comwallis  dies. 
November  23rd.  Treaty  with  Sindhia.  December  24th.  Treaty 
with  Holkar,  who  renounces  all  territory  N.  of  the  Chambal  and 
in  Bandalkhand,  and  agrees  to  exclude  all  Europeans  but  English 
from  his  dominions 1805 

July  10th.  The  mutiny  of  V61iir,  in  which  Colonel  Fancourt  and 
13  other  officers  and  99. Europeans  were  massacred     .        .        .     1806 

WarwiththeEajAof  Travankor         .        .        .        .        .        .    .    1807 

Colonel  Hamilton  defeats  the  Travankor  army  at  Anjuricha, 
December  3rd 1808 

January  15th.  Travankor  army  again  defeated.  February  10th. 
The  lines  stormed  and  entirely  in  possession  of  the  English  on 
February  21st,  which  ends  the  war.  August  6th.  The  Madras 
troops  at  Chitradurg  (Chittledroog)  mutiny  and  seize  the  trea- 
sure, and  march  to  join  other  mutineers  at  Seringapatam,  but  are 
routed  by  Colonel  Gibbs.  August  23rd.  The  mutineers  at  Serin- 
gapatam  surrender  at  discretion 1809 

February  17th.  Island  of  Amboyna  taken  by  the  English.  July 
9th.  Isle  of  Bourbon  taken.  August  9th.  Banda  ;  29th,  Tcr- 
nate  ;  December  9th,  Mauritius  taken 1810 

July  21st.  Charter  renewed,  but  trade  "•^vith  India  thrown  open  by 

53rd  Geo.  III.,  c.  155 1813 

May  29th.  The  Nipdlese  attack  the  Police  Station  at  Bhutwal. 
November  1st.  War  declared  against  Nipal  ....     1814 

April  27th.  Nipal  cedes  Kumdon  by  the  convention  of  Almora  .    .     1815 

June  13th.  Bdjl  KAo  cedes  A^^madnagar  and  other  places.  October 
18th.  The  Governor-General  takes  the  field  against  the  Pindaris. 
November  6th.  The  GAekwM  cedes  AhmaddbM.  November  5th. 
Battle  of  Khiykl,  in  which  BAjl  RAo  PeshwA  is  defeated  by  Col. 
Burr,  the  Mardthas  being  12  to  1.  November  26th.  Battle  of 
Sitabaldl,  in  which  Colonel  Hopeton  Scott  defeats  the  Rdj4  of 
Ndgpiir,  the  Mar&thas  being  twelve  times  more  numerous  than 
the  English.  December  28th.  Sir  T.  Hislop  gains  the  battle  of 
Mehidpiir  against  Holkar 1817 

January  6th.  Holkar  makes  peace.  May.  Pin^Arl  war  ended  by 
the  destruction  of  the  principal  hordes  and  their  chiefs.  June 
3rd.  BAjl  RAo,  the  last  of  the  PeshwAs,  surrenders,  and  is  sent 
to  Bandras 1818 

The  Niiwdb  of  Awadh  (Oude)  at  the  suggestion  of  Lord  Hastings, 
Govemor-Genei*al,  assumes  the  title  of  king,  and  renounces  his 
nominal  fealty  to  the  Emperor  of  Dilll 1819 

Malacca  ceded  to  the  British  by  the  Dutch.  Singapiir  purchased. 
War  with  Barmah.  April  12th,  17th.  The  Bengal  army  embark 
for  Rangiin,  which  is  taken  May  11th.  August.  Mergui,  Tavoy, 
and  Tcnasserim  surrendered.  October.  Martaban  and  Yeh  taken. 
November  1st.  Mutiny  at  Barrackpiir  of  the  47th  Bengal  Native 
Infantry,  with  part  of  the  26th  and  62nd  Native  Infantry.  The 
47th  erased  from  the  army  list,  and  many  Sipdhis  of  that  corps 
killed 1824 

February  13th.  A  rebellion  at  Bhartpiir  on  the  death  of  the  Rdja 
Baldev  Sing.  A  strong  faction  support  Durjan  SAl,  his  brother  ; 
the  English  declare  in  favour  of  Baldev  Sing,  infant  son  of  the 
late  Rdjd.     December  9th.  British  troops  march  for  Ava    .        .1825 

January  18th.  English,  under  Lord  Combermere,  take  Bhartpiir, 

[^owiay— 1880.]  D 


34  iXTRODUCTiox.  Sect.  I. 

DATFS. 

with  the  loss  of  578  men  killed  and  wounded.    February  24th. 
Treaty  of  Yandabu,  by  which  the  Barmese  cede  Assam,  Arakan, 
Tavoy,  Mergui,  and  Tenasserim,  and  pay  £1,000,000      .        .    .     182(i 
February.  Europeans  allowed  to  hold  lands  in  India  in  their  own 
names  on  lease  for  60  years.    December.  The  abolition  of  Sati, 
or  "  widow  burning,"  decreed      .......     1829 

June  18th.    By  2  Wm.  IV.,  c.  117,  natives  of  India  allowed  to  sit 
as  jurymen  and  justices  of  the  peace    .        /      .        .        .        .     1832 

August  18th.  Royal  assent  given  to  3  &  4  Wm.  IV.,  c.  85,  by 
which  the  Charter  is  renewed  till  April  30th,  1854,  the  property 
of  the  Company  being  held  in  trust  for  the  Crown  for  the  ser- 
vice of  India.  From  April  22nd,  1834,  the  China  trade  of  the 
Company  to  cease,  and  all  their  commercial  transactions  to 

close.     St.  Helena  to  revert  to  the  Crown 1833 

April  6th.  Mark^ra,  capital  of  Kurg,  taken.     10th.  Baja  deposed, 

and  Kurg  annexed 1834 

October  1st.  The  Simla  Proclamation.     Lord  Auckland  declares 
war  against  Dost  Muhammad      .        .        .        .        .        .        .    1838 

February  20th.  Bengal  army  begins  to  march  towards  Afgh^is- 
tAn  from  Flnizpiir.  March  6th.  Enters  the  Boldn  Pass.  April 
12th.  The  Bombay  army  enters  the  BoUn  ;  and  May  4th,  joins 
the  Bengal  army  at  Kandahir.  July  22nd.  Fall  of  Ghaziil. 
August  7th.  Shdh  Shuj'a  enters  KdbuL  Aden  taken  .  .  .  1839 
November  3rd.  Dost  Muliammad  gives  himself  up  to  Sir  W.  Mac- 

naghten 18:10 

November  2nd.  Sir  A.  Burnes,  Lieut  C.  Bumes,  and  Lieut.  Broad- 
foot,  murdered  at  Kdbul.  The  Afghans  rise  en  masse  against 
the  English  and  Shsih  Shuj'a.  ^  December  23rd.  Sir  W.  Mac- 
naghten  shot  by  Akbar  IChdn.    December  26th.   The  English 

army  at  Kdbul  capitulate 1841 

January  6th.  Betreat  of  the  English  fram  K^bul  commences. 
January  13th.  The  massacre  of  the  British  forces  consummated 
at  Gandamak.  18th.  Akbar  besieges  Jaldldbdd.  March  6th. 
Colonel  Palmer  surrenders  at  Ghazni.  September  6th.  General 
Nott  retakes  Ghazni.  15th.  General  Pollock  enters  Kdbul. 
17th.  Bescue  of  Lady  Sale  and  the  Kdbul  prisoners.    October 

12th.  The  army  begins  to  return  to  India 1842 

February  17th.  Sir  C.  Napier  gains  the  battle  of  Midnl ;  and 
March  24th,  the  battle  of  Dabba  or  Qaidar&bM.  December 
29th.  Sir  H.  Gough  gains  the  victory  of  MahArdjpiir  (15  miles 
N.W.  of  Gwdlidr)  over  the  Gwdlidr  army,  in  the  interest  of  the 
widow  of  Jankojl  Rdo  ^indhia;  and  on  the  same  day.  General 
Grey  wins  the  battle  of  Panidr  (a  place  12  miles  S.W.  of 
Gw41i4r)  over  another  division  of  the  same  army  .  .  .  1843 
December  18th.  Battle  of  Miidkl,  in  which  Sir  H.  Hardinge  and 
Sir  H.  Gough  capture  17  guns  from  the  Sikhs.  21st,  22nd. 
Battle  of  Flnizshahr  ;  the  Sikhs  lose  74  guns,  the  English  killed 

and  wounded  amount  to  2,415 1845 

January  28th.  Battle  of  Aliwal.  Sir  H.  Smith  takes  48  guns  from 
the  Sikhs.  British  killed  and  wounded,  589.  February  18th. 
Battle  of  Sobrdon ;  the  Sikhs  lose  13,000  men  and  67  guns,  the 
English  2,383  killed  and  wounded.  March  9th.  l^aty  of 
LdhtLi;  the  Jalandar  Dodb  annexed,  the  Sikhs  to  pay  £1,500,000, 
and  Dhallp  Singh  placed  on  the  throne  of  Ldhiir  under  the 


1 


« 


Sect.  I.  EVENTS-  CONNECTING    INDIA   WITH   EUROrE,  35 

nXTEfl. 

protection  of  the  British.  March  16th.  Kashmir  given  to  GulAb 
Sing  by  the  treaty  of  Amntsar.  Guldb  Sing  pays  £1,000,000 
of  the  Sikh  fine 184G 

April  20th.  Murder  of  Mr.  Vans  Agnew  and  Lieut.  Anderson  by 
Mulrdj,  the  Governor  of  Multdn.  July.  Lieut.  Edwardes  and 
the  NAwAb  of  Bhdwalpiir's  army,  under  Fat^  Mu][^ammad  Ghorl, 
the  former  Vazlr  of  Mir  Rustam  of  Sindh,  lay  siege  to  Mult4n. 
August  18th.  Gen.  Whlsh  arrives,  and  batteries  open  on  the 
12th  of  September;  on  the  22nd  of  which  month  General  Whish 
is  obliged  to  raise  the  siege  in  consequence  of  the  desertion  of 
Shir  Singh  with  5000  Sikhs.  December  27th.  Siege  of  Multdn 
renewed 1848 

January  2nd.  Multdn  taken  by  storm  ;  13th.  Battle  of  Chilian- 
wdla.  Lord  Gough's  army  repulsed  by  the  Sikhs,  with  the 
loss  of  2,357  killed  and  wounded ;  22nd.  Mulrdj  surrenders. 
February  21st.  Victory  of  Gujardt  over  the  Sikhs,  who  lose  53 
guns  and  all  their  stores.  The  British  killed  and  wounded 
amount  to  807.  March  14th.  The  Sikh  army,  16,000  strong,  lay 
down  their  arms;  29th.  The  Panj4b  annexed.  May  6th.  Sir  C. 
Napier  arrives  in  Calcutta  as  Commander-in-Chief.  September. 
Mulraj  sentenced  to  be  transported  for  life         ....    1849 

February  27th.  Sir  C.  Napier  disbands  the  66th  Bengal  Native 
Infantry  for  mutiny.  May  25th.  Jang  Bah&dur,  the  Nipdlese 
Ambassador,  arrives  in  England.  July  2nd.  Sir  C.  Napier  re- 
signs. October  31st.  The  first  sod  of  the  Bombay  Railway 
turned 1850 

January  28th.  Death  of  the  ex-Peshwa  Bajl  Rdo  at  Bithiir,  near 
Kdnhptir  (Cawnpore).  September  2l8t.  Prince  of  Wales's 
Island,  Singapi!ir,  and  Malacca  formed  into  a  separate  govern- 
ment independent  of  Bengal.  October  29th.  British  squadron 
arrives  from  Rangi!in  to  demand  redress  of  injuries    .        .        .1851 

April  14th.  Rangiin  taken  by  General  Goodwin.  June  4th.  Pegu 
taken  and  evacuated  ;  9th.  Prome  taken  and  evacuated.  Octo- 
ber 9th.  Prome  retaken.  Nov.  21st.  Pegu  retaken.  Dec.  20th. 
Pegu  annexed 1852 

June  20th.  Proclamation  announcing  the  2nd  Barmese  war  at  an 
end.  Aug.  20.  By  16th  &  17th  Vict,  c.  96,  Charter  renewed, 
until  Parliament  shall  otherwise  provide.  After  April,  1854,  the 
Directors  to  be  reduced  from  24  to  18,  the  Crown  to  nominate 
six.  Dec.  11th.  Raghuji,  the  Rdj&  of  Ndgpiir^  having  died 
without  issue,  his  dominions  were  annexed         ....    1853 

February  7th.  The  King  of  Awadh  (Oude)  deposed  and  his  king- 
dom annexed 1856 

January.  Great  excitement  and  discontent  apparent  among  the 
Bengal  Army.  18th.  The  subject  of  the  greased  cartridges  dis- 
cussed amongst  them.  24th.  The  Telegraph  Office  at  Barrack- 
piir  burnt  down  by  the  Sipdhis.  February  16th.  General 
Hearsey  harangues  the  Barrackpi!ir  Brigade,  consisting  of  the 
2nd  Grenadiers,  the  34th  Native  Infantry,  the  43^  Light 
Infantry,  and  the  70th  Native  Infantry,  on  the  groundlessness 
of  their  suspicions.  Colonel  Birch  telegraphs  to  the  Schools  of 
Musketry  at  SiyAlk6t  and  AmbAla,  in  the  PanjAb,  to  prohibit 
the  use  of  the  obnoxious  cartridge.  February  24th.  A  detach- 
ment of  the  34th  Native  Infantry  communicate  their  grievances 

D  2 


36  iN'THODrcTiox.  Sect.  I. 

DATKS. 

to  the  19th  Xative  Infantry  at  Burhanpiir  (Berhampore).    26th.    1857 
The  19th  Native  Infantry  mutiny  ;  but  after  treaty  with  Colonel 
Mitchell  give  up  their  arms.     27th.  Distribution  of  ehapdtig 
from  KAnhptir,  being  the  signal  for  a  general  revolt.    March 
6th.    The  Bentinch,  sent  to  Rangiin  to  bring  Her  Majesty's 
84th  Regiment  to  Calcutta,  returns  with  that  corps  on  the  20th. 
29th.  Mangal  P^ndi,  of  the  34th  Native  Infantry,  wounds  Lieut. 
Baugh,  the  Adjutant  of  the  regiment.    31  st.  The  19th  Native 
Infantry  disbanded  at  Barrackpib*.     April  3rd.  Execution  of 
Mangal  Pandi.     21  st.  Execution  of  the  Jam'adar  of  the  34th, 
who  commanded  the  guard  on  the  day  that  Lieut.  Faugh  was 
wounded.     May  3rd.  Sir  H.  Lawrence  suppresses  a  mutiny  of 
the  7th  -A[wadh  Irregulars  at  Lakhnau  (Lucknow).    6th.  The 
34th  Native  Infantry  disbanded  at  Barrackpiir.  9th.  85  troopers 
of  the  3rd  Bengal  Cavalry  placed  in  irons  for  refusing  the  cart- 
ridges.   10th.  The  3rd  Cavalry  and  the  11th  and  20th  Native 
Infantry  rise  and  set  fire  to  the  cantonments  at  Mlrat,  set  at 
liberty  the  prisoners,  murder  many  Europeans,  and  march  for 
DilU.     11th.  The  mutineers  reach  Dilli,  and  are  joined  by  the 
whole  garrison,  the  38th,  the  54th.  and  74th  Native  Infantry, 
and  a  battery  of  Native  Artillery.    The  restoration  of  the  Em- 
peror of  Dilli  to  the  throne  of  his  ancestors  proclaimed  at  Dilli. 
1 3th.  The  45th  and  57th  Native  Infantry  mutiny  at  Finizpur, 
but  the  mutiny  is  quickly  quelled  ;   other  mutinies  at  various 
places  ;  the  16th,  26th,  and  49th  Native  Infantry  disarmed  at 
Miydn  Mir,  the  cantonment  of  Ldhiir.     16th.  The  Sappers  and 
Miners  mutiny  at  Mlrat,  and  kill  their  commanding  officer, 
Captain  Eraser.    22nd.  The  24th,  27th,  and  51st  disarmed  at 
Peshdwar ;  the  55th  Native  Infantry  dispersed  or  destroyed  at 
Marddn  ;  General  Anson  dies  of  cholera  at  Kamul,  and  is  suc- 
ceeded by  Sir  H.  Barnard.    30th.  The  Mlrat  Brigade  defeat  the 
mutineers  of  Dilli  at  Ghdzlu'd-din  nagar.    5lst.  The  48th,  71st,  . 
and  part  of  the  13th  Native  Infantry,  and  two  troops  of  the  7th 
Cavalry,  mutiny  at  liakhnau.     June  Ist.  The  44th  and  67th 
Native  Infantry  disarmed  at  A'gra.    4th.  Mutiny  of  the  37th 
Native  Infantry,  a  Sikh   Regiment,  and   Irregular  Horse  at 
Bandras,  and  of  the  6th  Native  Infantry  at  Alldhdbad,  with 
great  slaughter  of  Europeans.    5th.  Mutiny  of  the  12th  Native 
Infantry  at  Jhdnsl  and  massacre  of  all  the  i^uropeans.    6th. 
NdnA  Sdhib  attacl^s  Sir  H.  Wheeler's  entrenchments  at  Eanh- 
piir  ;  the  revolt  general  throughout  the  Bengal  army.    8th.  Sir 
H.  Barnard  takes  up  a  position  before  Dilli,  £^r  a  sharp  action 
at  Badli  Sardl,  in  which  Colonel  Chester,  the  Adjutant-General, 
is  killed.    June  27th.  Ndhd  §dhib  massacres  the  Europeans  at 
Kdnhpiir.    July  1st.    General  Havelock's  victorious  advance. 
4th.  Sir  H.  Lawrence  killed  by  a  shell  at  Lakhnau.    6th.  Sir  H. 
Barnard  dies  of  cholera,  and  is  succeeded  by  General  Reid. 
17th.  General  Havelock  retakes  Kdnhpiir.    22nd.  General  Reid 
succeeded  by  General  Wilson.    August  2nd.    Death  of  Gulib 
Sing.    10th.   General  Nicholson  joins  the  camp  at  Dilli  with 
a  strong  column.    September  14th-20th.   Storm  and  capture  of 
Dilli,  with  the  loss  to  the  British  of  1178  killed  and  wounded. 
25th.  General  Havelock  and  Sir  J.  Outram  tight  their  way  to 
the  Residency  at  Lakhnau,  where  the  British  garrison  had  been 


Sect.  I.  EVENTS   COXNECTIXG    INDIA   WITU   EUROPE.  37 

DATE8. 

besieged  since  the  beginning  of  June.  Nov.  3rd.  Sir  C.  Camp-  1857 
bell  reaches  Kinhptir.  11th.  Advances  against  Lakhnau.  13th. 
Defeats  the  enemy  and  reaches  the  Canal.  15th.  Takes  the 
Dilkosh^  Palace  and  the  La  Martini6re.  16th.  Storms  the 
Sikandar  bdgh.  17th.  Opens  communication  with  General 
Oatram.  22nd.  The  garrison  of  Lakhnau  evacuate  their  posi- 
tion, and  the  retreat  on  Ednhpdr  commences.  25th.  Death  of 
General  Havelock.  26th.  General  Windham  defeats  the  van 
of  the  Gwdlidr  Contingent.  27.  He  is  defeated  and  driven  into 
his  entrenchments  by  the  GwAlidr  rebels  and  NAn4  §d^ib,  who 
take  and  plunder  Kanhpiir.  December  6th.  Sir  C.  Campbell 
defeats  the  Gwdli&r  rebels  with  great  slaughter  and  the  loss  of 

nearly  all  their  guns 1857 

January  2nd.  Sir  C.  Campbell  takes  FarrukhabM.  Jang  Bahd- 
dur,  the  Nipdlese  General,  advancing  with  10,000  Gorkhas  to  the 
aid  of  the  British,  takes  Gorakhpib*.    12th,  16th.    General  Ontrani 

defeats  the  rebels  at  'Alambdgh 1858 

Kanara  assigned  to  Madras  in  1797;  restored  to  Bombay  in      .     .    1862 
The  walls  of  the  Fort  of  Bombay  pulled  down        ....     1863 

Elphinstone's  Circle  built  in  Bombay 1863 

Three  British  columns  enter  Afghdnistdn  by  the  Khaibai*,  Khur- 

ram,  and  Bolan  Passes 21st  November,    1878 

Fort  of  'All  Masjid  evacuated ;  Shir  *Ali  leaves  Kdbul, 

22nd  November,    1878 
Major-General  Roberts  defeats  the  Afghans  at  the  Paiwar  Pass, 

21st  December,    1878 
General  Roberts  announces  that  the  territory  he  had  occupied 

would  not  be  restored  ....        26th  December,     1878 

Mangals  defeated    by  General    Roberts   in   the   Khost  Valley, 

7th  January,  1879 
Sir  D.  Stewart's  column  reaches  Kandahdr        .  8th  January,    1870 

Shdhz^ah  Muhammad  Jambar  left  as  Governor  at  Mdtun, 

29th  January,     1879 
He  is  menaced  by  the  Mangals,  relieved  by  Roberts,  and  Khost 

evacuated January,     1879 

The  Governor,  Mir  Af^al  Khdn,  father  of  the  mother  of  'Abdu'lldh 
Jan,  fled  ;  Wall  Muhammad,  son  of  the  Amir  Dost  Muhammad, 
left  Kdbnl  and  joined  the  British  at  Jaldldbdd       .        Januaiy,     1879 
Y'akiib  Khdn  writes  that  he  desires  peace      .  20th  Februaiy,     1879 

Shir  'All  dies  of  gangrene  at  Mazdr  i  Sharif,  12  m.  from  Balkh, 

21st  Febmary,     1879 
Cavagnari  replies  first  that  the  Amir  must  renounce  authority  over  the 
Khaibar  and  Michni  Passes,  and  the  tribes  near  to  Khurram  and 
the  crest  of  the  Shutur  Gardan  Pass ;  Peshin  and  Sibi  must  remain 
under  the  authority  of  the  British  Government      .    7th  March,     1879 
European  Residents  must,  with  suitable  guards,  be  placed  where 
deemed  necessary  by  the  British,  and  KdbuPs  foreign  relations 
must  be  controlled  by  the  British. 
Y'akiib  agrees  to  the  rest,  but  protests  against  cession  of  territory, 

12th  March,    1879 
T'akiib  is  informed  that  the  demands  cannot  be  withdrawn, 

23rd  March,    1879 
Y'akiib  repeats  his  protest  in  an  able  letter,  but  agrees  to  receive 
aBritish  Resident  at  Kdbul         ....      29th  March,    1879 


38  IXTRODUCTIOK.  Sect.  1. 

DATES. 

The  Ebaibar  column  advances  to  Gandamak,  63  m.  from  Kabul, 

March,    1879 

The  Secretary  of  State  telegraphs  that  if  Y'akilb  is  to  have  his 
foreign  policy  controlled,  the  British  Government  will  support 
him  with  money,  troops,  and  arms  against  foreign  aggression, 

13th  April,    1879 

Y'a^b  arrives  at  Gandamak  on  8th  May,  and  the  Treaty  is  signed 

26th  May,    1879 

Telegraph  to  be  constructed  to  KAbul,  Amnesty  for  Afghans  who 
aided  English,  Traders  to  be  protected,  and  an  annual  subsidy 
of  £60,000  to  be  paid  to  the  Amir        ....      May,    1879 

Sir  Louis  Cavagnari,  Mr.  Jenkyns,  C.S.,  Dr.  Kelly,  with  an  escort 
from  the  Guides  Corps  of  25  horse  and  60  infantry  under  Lieut. 
W.  Hamilton,  V.C,  left  the  frontier  at  *Ali  Khel  on  18th  July 
and  arrived  at  KAbul 24th  July,    1879 

The  Residency  stormed,  British  oflBicers  all  killed,  and  nearly  all 

the  escort 3rd  September,    1879 

Brigadier-General  Massey  occupies  the  Shutur  Gardan, 

11th  September,    1879 

Proclamation  of  Gen.  Roberts  as  to  his  advance,    16th  September,    1879 

Y'al^iib  arrives  in  Brigadier-General  Baker's  camp  at  Khushl, 

27th  September,    1879 

Sir  Frederick  Roberts  collects  his  force  at  Khushi,  38  m.  beyond 

'AH  Khel,  which  is  82  m.  from  KAbul      .  "      .      1st  October,    1879 

2nd  Proclamation  of  General  Roberts         .        .  3rd  October,    1879 

He  reaches  Chdrasidb,  12  m.  from  Kabul        .        .     5th  October,    1879 

The  heights  carried  and  20  guns  taken       .        .        .  6th  October,     1879 

The  fortified  cantonment  of  Shlrpiir  with  76  guns  taken, 

9th  October,     1879 

3rd  Proclamation  of  General  Roberts      .        .        .    12th  October,    1879 

Roberts  encamps  on  the  heights  of  Siah  Sahg,  E.  of  KAbul ;  enters 
the  Bdl^  Qis^  and  traverses  the  city,  12th  and  13th 
October 1879 

Shutur  Gardan  attacked,  defended  by  Colonel  Noel  Money,  who 
repulses  the  AfghAus  ;  British  garrison  advances  to  KAbul, 

14th  to  19th  October,    1879 

M.-General  Hills  appointed  Governor  of  Kdbul,  and  Commission 
to  investigate  cause  of  the  late  outbreak  ;  Colonel  Macgregor, 
Dr.  Bellew,  and  Mul|;iammad  Haidt  Khan  members  ;  Military 
Commission,  Brig.-General  Massey,Major  Moriarty,and  Captain 
Guinness  members,  who  execute  5  Afghdns  .    .  20th  October,    1879 

4th  Proclamation  of  General  Roberts,  announciug  the  abdication 
of  Y'akiib  and  assuming  the  Government  of  Kdbul. 

28th  October,    1879 

Supplementary  Proclamation  of  Roberts  ordered  by  Government 

of  India 29th  October,    1879 

Col.  C.  Gough  reaches  Gandamak  on  the  22nd  gf  October,  and 

junction  with  Macpherson    ....     7th  November,    1879 

5th  Proclamation  of  General  Roberts,  granting  amnesty  tc^  rebels 
who  give  up  arms  and  retire  to  their  houses,  except  those  con- 
cerned in  the  murder  of  Sir  L.  Cavagnari    .    12th  November,    1879 

General  Roberts  reports  that  28  persons  had  been  executed  in  ac- 
cordance with  the  finding  of  the  Military  Commission, 

15th  November,    1879 


r 


Sect.  L  CAPTAINS  OF  basbIn.  39 

DATKS. 

Y'akiib  sent  prisoner  to  India        .        .        .        .    Ist  Becember,    1871) 

Koberts  reviews  British  force  at  Kabul,  when  4,700  officers  and 
men  paraded  ;  total  force  at  Shirpiir,  5,000 — 6,000  men, 

8th  December,    1879 

Macpherson  drives  back  the  Kohistdnis  at  Sonth  Kotal, 

10th  Decembei-,    1879 

Massey,  with  4  H.  A.  guns,  2  sqnadrons  of  14th  Bengal  Cavalry, 
9th  Lancers  and  19th,  sharply  engaged  with  enemy  advancing 
from  Arghandi,  who  captured  his  guns,  but  these  are  recovered 
by  Col.  Macgregor  same  day ;  critical  state  of  Shlrpilir  can- 
tonment ;  Afgh£is  occupy  the  Talcht  i  Sh&h  heights, 

11th  December,    1879 

Colonel  Noel  Money  is  sent  to  recover  Takht  i  Sh^h,  but  carries 

only  the  lower  range         ....        12th  December,    1879 

Brig.-General  Baker  attacks  Takht  i  Sh&h  from  E.  and  Money  from 
W. ;  Baker  returns  to  Shirpiir,  but  Macpherson  remains  at 
Dih  Mogang  ;  Afghdns  threaten  Takht  i  Shdh  in  great  force  ; 
Macpherson  leaves  Dih  Mogang  .        .        .    13th  December,    1879 

Afghans  enter  K4bul  and  Dih  Afgh&n,  and  occupy  Eoh  Asmai ; 
Baker,  with  the  72nd,  92nd,  Guides,  and  5th  P.  I.,  attack  the 
Afghans  and  carry  the  heights,  but  the  enemy  retake  a  conical 
hiU  and  capture  2  mountain  guns ;  Robeits  retires  into  Shirpiir, 

14th  December,    1879 

Afgh^s  plunder  the  Hindil  and  Kizalbdsh  houses  in  Kdbul, 

16th— 22nd  December,    1879 

They  attack  Shirpiir  on  the  23rd,  but  are  repulsed ;  loss  of  the 
British  force  from  10th  to  23rd,  110  killed  and  252  wounded ; 
force  at  Khurram  remained  inactive 1879 

Gth  Proclamation  of  Roberts,  offering  amnesty  to  all  but  Muham- 
mad J4n  of  Wai*dak,  Mir  Bachchah  Kohistani,  Samundar 
Khdn  Logarh,  Ghuldm  Gaidar  of  Charkh,  and  the  murderers 
of  Sard^  Muhammad  Ijrasan  Khdn      .        .    23rd  December,    1879 

Captains  of  Baadn* 

1.  Garcia  de  Sa 1535 

2.  Rui  Vaz  Pereira 1536 

Antonio  de  Silveira 1536 

3.  Manuel  de  Macedo 1537 

4.  Rui  Louren^o  de  Tavora 1538 

Garcia  de  SA 1538 

5.  Dom  Francisco  de  Menczes 1541 

().  Dom  Jeronimo  de  Menezes  o  Baccctlmo 1545 

7.  Jorge  Cabral 1548 

8.  Francisco  Barreto 1549 

\).  Francipco  de  SA 1554 

10.  Nuno  Vas  de  Castello  Branco 1611 

11.  Gaspar  Pereira 1620—1623 

12.  Gaspar  de  Mello  de  Miranda 1630 

13.  Rui  Dias  da  Cunha 1635 

14.  Andr6  Salema 1639 

15.  Dom  Alvaro  d' Almeida 1650 

16.  Manuel  Corte  Real  Sempail 1653 

17.  JoSo  de  Siguiera  de  Faria 1661 — 1664 


\ 


40  INTRODUCTION.  Sect  1. 

DATES. 

18.  Dom  Antonio  de  Souto  Maior 1667 

19.  Manuel  Teixeira  Franco 1670 

20.  Jeronimo  Manuel  Albuquerque  1671 

21.  Henrique  da  Silva  de  E9a 1672 

22.  Andr6  Pereira  dos  Reis 1675 

23.  Fernando  Antonio  Souto  Maior 1677 — 1678 

24.  Manuel  Tavares  da  Gama 1693 

26.  Dom  Antonio  Vasco  de  Mello 1712—1717 

26.  Francisco  Pereira  Pinto         .../....  1728 

27.  Jofio  Barbosa  Barros 1738 

Jofto  Xavier  Pereira  Pinto 1738 

28.  Caetano  de  Souza  Pereira 1739 

§  g.    TABLES   OF   MONEY,   ETC. 

The  value  of  a  rupee  has  been  assumed  till  the  last  few  years  as 
equal  to  2«.  It  weighs  180  grs.  troy  =  to  1  told,  and  consists  of  11 
parts  silver  and  one  alloy.  The  gold  rupee  is  of  the  same  weight 
and  standard.  The  copper  coins  are  the  §  ana,  weighing  200  gi*s. ; 
the  i  dnd,  or  paisd,  100  gre.  ;  the  ^  paisil,  50  grs.,  and  tne  pie,  33j^ 
grs. 

TABLES.  £        ^       ^; 

.   1  Pie U  U  0-4 

1  Paisd,  or  J  una 0  0  Of 

1  And 0  0  14 

1  Rupee 0  2  0 

1  Gold  Rupee 1  10  0 

1  Gold  Muhr 1  12  0 

iLakh 100,000  0  0 

1  Karor 10,000,000  0  0 

Bombay  Local  Weiglits. 

4  Dbdn,  or  yav  (grain)  =  1  Rati    .         .  .  2-1207  gr.  Ir. 

8  Rati        .        .        .        .  =  1  Mdshah  .        .  .  8-6069   ,,  ., 

4  Mdshah               .         .     .  --  1  ^dnk  .        .  .  68*055   .,  ., 

72  Tdnk,  or  30  psTs     .         .  =  1  Ser     =     4900  gr.  tr. 

=s  27  Tolds  4  grains  =  11 J  oz.  av. 

40  Sers =  1  Man       .        .  =  28    lb.  .. 

20  Mans       .        .         .        .  =  1  Khaiidi      .     .  —  560    „  ,, 

^J.      ,,      .         a         •         .     .     =S      .1         .,        .         .      ^       OOO     ,,    .« 
*l£  „  •         •         •         .      ^      J.         .,  .     ,     ^       OlO     ,,    .. 

22  „  9  lb -     \         .,   .    .   =   625  ,,  !, 

28  „     .    .       .  =s  1    „     .  .  =   784'  „  „ 

30  ., =  1    ...    .  =   840  „  ., 

Surat  KhaucU 821i  .,    „ 

Khaiidl  for  iron 746  J  „    „ 

Besides  the  above,  various  articles  are  bought  and  sold  by  special 
weight.  The  Pakd  ber  is  \\\  lbs.  av.,  or  72-59  tolds.  At  Panwel  the  Ser 
weighs  72-83  tolds. 

Ahmadnagar  and  SJwldpiir. 

At  Alljimadnagar  the  Palla  is  2  4  Mans.     At  Sholdptir  1  manki  »  4  tha^as 
=  12  Sers. 


Sect.  I.  I'ABLES   OF  WEIGHTS   AKD   MEASURES.  41 

Sdtdrd, 

The  Ser  varies  from  92*75  tolds  at  Kolah  to  115  toUs  at  Mandapiir. 
In  SAtAra  city  is  93-25  tolds. 

Sural. 

Tlie  Surat  Ser  of  35  Surat  tolas  varies  fron  36-4683  to  37  tolds.  The 
Khandf  for  cotton  is  21  Mans,  or  7  cwt.  3 J  lbs. 

Bharfieh. 
At  Bhardch  the  Ser  is  40  tolas. 

Native  Jexcellers  Weujht. 

1  Dhan  .        .        .        .        p  gr.  troy. 

4  Dhan  =     1  Rati ll"  »    f, 

8  Bati  =     1  Mdshali     .        .        .        .     15      .,    ., 

12  Mdshah       =     1  Tola 180      „     .. 

A  Dhdn  is  0*46875  gr.  troy,  0*0303745  French  grammes. 

Goldsm iths''  Wei/jli  t. 

2  Gunj  =     1  Wal      .        .         =         3*8282  gr.  troy. 

4  Wal  =     1  Mashah  .     .     .     ^       15*3128   „      „ 

12  MAshah       =     1  Tola  .        .     ^     183*7536  ,,      „ 

Mashas,  ratls,  dhAns  ai*e  employed  in  the  native  valuation  of  assay  of 
the  precious  metals  ;  thus,  "  10  mashahs  fine  "  signifies  10-12th8  pure,  or 
the  same  as  10  oz.  touch. 


Measures  of  Length. 

3  Jau 

.     = 

1  Ungli     . 

^  ill. 

4  Ungli 

,        zz: 

1  Muthi 

•J 

12Ungli    . 

= 

1  Bilisht    . 

.         ./       «« 

2  Bilisht  . 

,        mz 

1  HAth  or  Cubit    . 

.       18       ., 

2  Hdth 

,        ^^ 

1  Gaz  or  yaixl    . 

3  ft. 

4.H4th     . 

,            ZIS 

1  Danda  or  Bam   . 

2  yds. 

2000  Danda      . 

= 

1  Kos 

4000    ., 

4Kos 

=: 

1  Yojan        .        .     . 

9-li  ill. 

• 

Bombay  Cloth  Measure, 

2  Ungli       . 

1  J 

1  Tassii      . 

IJ  in. 

24Tassu  .        .     . 

^= 

1  Gaz    . 

07 

In  Pun^the  Gaz  is  34|-tli  in.,  but  English  cloth  is  sold  by  the  yard. 


MEASUEES    OF    SURFACE.       , 

Bombay,  Fund,  etc. 

34^  Square,  Hdths.        .        .  =  1  KAthi. 

20    Kdthi =  1  Band,  or  Vaso. 

20    Band =  1  Bigha. 

6    Bigh4 =  1  Rukah. 

120    Blghd =  1  Chahur. 

In  some  places  the  survey  chain  of  33  feet  is  used,  and 

16    Ands,  or  links       .         .        .    .  «  1  Gatthd,  or  chain. 

40    Gatthd =  1  Acre 


42  INTRODUCTION.  Sect.  I. 

Gujarat, 

20  Khunt        .        .        .    .  =  1  Padtal. 

20  Padtal    .        .        .        .  =  1  Padat. 

20Padat         .        .        .     .  «  1  Vishwashi. 

20Vishwashi       .        .        .  =  1  VasA. 

20  VasA =  1  Vingho,  BighA  or  Don. 


36  Tanks 

2  Tipari    . 

4  Sers  . 
11  Payale    . 

8  Pharas,  or  Faras 
25Phara8    . 


Bombay  Dry  Measure. 

=  1  Tipari    ....  llj  oz.  av. 

=     1  Ser 1  lb.  6  oz.  av. 

=  1  Payale,  or  Adhalo  .        .  1   „    9  „  „ 

=  1  Phara,  or  Fara .         .     .  89   „  11  „  „ 

=  1  Khandi          .                  .712  „  11  „    „ 

=  1  Muda         .         .        .     .  59  qrs.  bushel. 


A  Bombay  gallon'of  water  =  5  Sers  dry  measure,  which  gives  8*125  lbs. 
weight.  The  Ser  of  oil  only  contains  30  tolas  weight.  As  a  measure  of 
Time  it  is  only  necessary  to  mention  Ghari,  which  =  24  min. 

§  h.    CASTES   AND   TRIBES    IN   THE   BOMBAY   PRESIDENCY. 

The  most  important  tribe  in  the  Bombay  Presidency  is  the  Ma- 
ratha.  According  to  the  Tatwa  (part  of  the  Jyotish  Shdstra)  Maha- 
rashtra, the  land  of  the  Mardthas  extends  N.  to  the  Chdndod  Hills  in 
about  N.  lat.  20°  30'  and  W.  along  those  mountains  to  the  Wain 
Gangd,  E.  of  Nagpur  and  S.  to  about  Qoa.  The  Marathas  are  to  be 
found,  to  the  number  of  several  millions,  scattered  over  this  tract. 
But  the  part  which  is  more  especially  Maratha  is  the  Kohkan-Ghat- 
Mathd,  "the  top  of  the  Konkan  Ghats,"  a  tract  25  m.  broad, 
divided  into  the  Mdwals,  the  Khords,  and  the  Murrhens.  The  people 
of  these  places  were  the  soldiers  of  Shivaji,  who  conquered  for  nim  a 
large  portion  of  the  Dakhan.  It  is  said  by  Grant  Duff  that  they 
are  remarkable  for  their  simple,  inoffensive  demeanour,  but  are 
hardy  and  patient,  and  have  been,  and  may  still  be,  led  to  daring 
enterprises.  In  many  respects  thev  resemble  the  Rdjpiits,  but  are 
far  more  temperate  and  frugal.  The  Peshwds  were  Maratha  Brdh- 
mans  of  the  fconkan,  and  Konkanists,  hence  pretend  to  superiority 
in  caste.  The  Brdhmans  of  this  tract  are  possessed  of  great  intelli- 
gence, and  a  capacity  for  intrigue  not  to  be  surpassed. 

The  Pdrsis. — The  Pdrsls,  so  called  from  their  original  country, 
Pdrs,  Persia.  They  migrated  to  India  in  the  7th  century,  and  are  of 
larger  stature  than  the  other  peoples  of  Bombay.  They  are  fire- 
worshippers,  but  endeavour  to  maintain  the  purity  of  all  the 
elements,  whence  their  dead  bodies  are  placed  in  towers  to  be  de- 
voured by  vultures  and  then  dissolve  into  dust.  In  this  way  they 
fancy  that  none  of  the  elements  are  polluted.  They  are  easily  dis- 
tinguishable by  their  hats,  which  have  a  square  front  but  sink  down 
towards  the  back  of  the  head,  so  as  to  form  a  hollow  in  which  they 
often  put  flowers.  Their  numbers  do  not  reach  200,000,  of  which 
the  greater  part  reside  in  or  near  Bombay.     They  eat  meat  and 


Sect.  I.  CASTES  AND   TRIBES  — THE   PARSfs.  43 

drink  wine,  and  many  of  them  wear  European  clothes.  Their 
women  are  remarkable  for  their  morality,  and,  taken  as  a  body,  they 
are  the  most  molized  people  in  India. 

After  their  arrival  in  India,  the  Parsis  were  governed  by  Pan- 
chdyats  »  lit.  councils  of  5,  consisting  in  Bombay  of  12  members, 
and  in  the  districts  of  such  a  nuniber  as  circumstances  allowed. 
Up  to  about  60  years  ago,  Surat  was  looked  upon  as  the  head- 
quarters of  the  Pdrsls.    There,  and  generally  in  the  districts,  the 
Panchdyats  acted  more  or  less  independently  of  Bombay.   About  20 
years  ago  the  Bombajr  Panchayat  began  to  lose  authority,  and  a 
movement  began  outside  it   for  drawing  up  regulations  as  to  in- 
heritances, marriage,  and  divorce,  and  the  Panchayat  now  acts  only 
as  trustee  for  Pdrsi  charities,  and  as  ctistos  of  places  of  worship  and 
of  the  Towers  of  Silence.     No  compulsory  contributions  are  levied, 
except  a  small  fee  for  registration  of  marriages.    There  is  a  fund 
for  support  of  the  poor  in  charge  of  the  Panchdyat,  and  another 
managed  by  Sir  Jamshidjfs  Pdrsi  Benevolent  Institution.      Dis- 
bursements are  made  from  interest,  and  capital  is  untouched.     Part 
of  the  fund  is  devoted  to  educational  purposes,  both  in  Bombay  and 
in  the  districts.     There  is  a  Dharam  Said  for  the  Pdrsi  poor  at  the 
foot  of  the  Towers  of  Silence  in  Chaupatti.     No  Pdrsi  is  ever  seen 
begging.     There  is  also  a  fund  for  parymg  the  Jaziyah,  or  capitation 
tax  levied  on  the  Parsis  in  Persia.     Manikji  Limji  Atdriya  is  still 
agent  for  the  Pdrsis  in  Persia,  and  resides  at  Tehran.     In  spite  of 
the  petition  to  the  Shdh  respecting  the  wrongs  inflicted  on  his  Pdrsi 
subjects,  no  redress  of  grievances  has  been  vouchsafed.    There  are  no 
statistics  as  to  the  increase  of  numbers  of  the  Pdrsis,  and  the  census 
before  last  is  not  reliable.     The  two  most  prominent  conversions  to 
Christianity  are  those  of  the  Rev.  Dhanjlbhdi  Naurozji,  who  resides 
in  Bombay,  and  the  Rev.  Hormazdjl,  who  lives  at  Pund  ;  there  are 
other  conversions,  but  none  to  Isldm.     The  Pdrsis  would  willingly 
enter  the  army  as  officers,  and  Mdnikjl  Khurshidjl  applied  for  a 
commission  for  his  son,  but  it  was  refused.     The  pay  of  privates  is 
too  small  to  induce  Parsis  to  enlist,  but  they  have  no  other  objection. 
There  is  a  Pdrsi  in  the  military  service  of  a  Native  State.     The  most 
learned  Pdrsis  at  present  are  Klhurshldjl  Rustamjl  Kdma,  who  knows 
Zand  and  Pahlavt    Two  Dastiirs  (the  highest  rank  of  Pdrsi  priests) 
are  very  learned.     One  is  Pesliotanji  Bahramjl  Sanjdna,  who  is  head 
of  the  Zand  College,  which  is  located  in  one  of  the  3   large  fire- 
temples  in  Girgdoh  Road.     Another  temple  is  in  Chandanwadi ;  and 
the  3rd  in  Aggdri,  into  which  temples  none  but  Pdrsis  may  enter. 
If  illegitimate  children  are  brought  up  as  Pdrsis,  they  are  received  into 
the  community.     A  Pdrsi  gentleman  married  an  English  lady,  and 
after  her  death  married  her  sister  in  Switzerland.     There  is  no  in- 
stance of  an  Englishman  marrying  a  Pdrsi  woman.     Bigamy  is  not 
allowed.     Widows  may  marry  again,  and  do  so.     There  are  no 
Pdrsi  women  of  disreputable  character. 

Bhils,  orBdmosis. — "  These,  although  their  office  is  the  same  when 
employed  on  the  village  establishment,  are  different  castes  of  people, 
but  they  resemble  each  other  in  many  of  their  habits  ;  both  are  pro- 
fessed thieves.      The  Rdmosls  belong  more  particularly  to  Mahd- 


44  INTRODUCTION.  Sect.  I. 

rdslitra.  The  BkQs  in  the  Mardtha  country  are  only  found  in 
Khandesh,  and  along  the  Sahyddri  range  N.  of  Junnar.  In  villages 
they  generally  hold  the  office  of  watchman  ;  and  when  a  country  is 
settled,  they  become  useful  auxiliaries  in  the  police  ;  but,  under  a 
weak  government,  or  when  anarchy  prevails,  they  quit  their  habi- 
tations, and  become  thieves  and  robbers.  The  Edmosis  use  the  sword 
and  matchlock,  the  Bhils  more  commonly  the  bow  and  arrow  ;  the 
latter  are  less  domesticated  than  the  former.  Bhils  abound  to  the 
N.  of  the  Nirbada  and  over  the  greater  part  of  Gujardt.  When 
employed  on  the  -vdllage  establishment  they  are  in  that  province 
called  Burtinneas"    (Grant  Duff,  vol.  i.,  j).  34.) 

Bohrahs, — "  These  are  a  well-to-do  class  of  Muslims  who  venerate 
the  representative  of  Hasan  Sabdh,  who  died  1124  a.d.,  the  prince 
of  the  assassins.  His  representative,  Saiyad  Muhammad  Husain, 
oJlias  A'gha  Khan  Muhulati,  after  a  struggle  with  the  Shah,  fled  from 
Kermdn  to  India,  and  is  now  residing  in  Bombay.  There  are  in  the 
Surat  Collectorate  4,57*7  trading  Bohrahs,  who  have  their  head  quar- 
ters in  the  city  of  Surat,  where  their  chief  priest,  the  MuUtl  Sahib, 
resides.  They  go  great  distances  to  trade  and  visit,  and  some- 
times settle  in  China  and  Siam."  {Bombay  Gazetteer,  vol.  ii. 
p.  38.) 

After  the  death  of  'Alf  s  two  sons,  murdered  a.d.  660,  the  family 
of  'All  fell  into  obscurity.  The  followers  of  'Ali  assumed  the  title 
of  Imamis,  regarding  the  Imdm  as  semi-divine.  After  the  death  of 
Imam  J'atir  Sddik,  a.d.  769,  the  Ism'ailis  arose,  who  traced  the 
Imdmi  succession  through  Ism'ail  J'afir^s  son,  who  died  in  his 
father's  lifetime.  The  other  'Aliites  traced  it  through  another  son 
of  J'afir  to  Muhammad  Mahdi,  w^ho  disappeared,  but  is  supposed  to 
be  still  living.  The  Shi'a*  doctrines  were  adopted  by  the  Persians 
on  the  foundation  of  the  Safavi  dynasty  in  a.h.  905  z=  a.d.  1499,  and 
from  that  period  till  the  present  time  have  prevailed  as  the  national 
religion  and  law  of  Persia,  notwithstanding  the  efforts  made  by 
Ashraf  and  Nadir  to  substitute  the  Sunny  creed.  According  to  Sir 
H.  Rawlinson,  A'ghd  Khdn,  whose  real  name  is  Muhammad  Husain, 
is  a  lineal  descendant  of  the  6th  Imdm,  and  he  is  the  Pir,  or  Saint 
of  the  Khojahs.  Irf  a  celebrated  case,  tried  at  Bombay  in  June, 
1866,  a  body  of  the  Khojahs,  headed  by  Ahmad  Habfb  Bhai,  sup- 
ported by  700  to  800  adult  followers,  petitioned  that  A'gha  Kjigin 
should  be  removed  from  being  the  head  of  the  sect.  They  con- 
tended that  the  Khojahs  had  been  Sunnis  from  the  time  when 
they  had  been  converted  from  Hinduism.  This  diWsion  of  the  sect 
began  in  1830,  and  the  seceders  moved  to  Chinch  Bandar  in  1861, 
and  built  a  Mosque  there.  The  Khojahs  do  not  perform  the  Hajj 
or  pilgrimage  to  Mecca,  but  they  go  to  Kerbela.  The  Shi'as  pray 
with  their  hands  open,  and  pray  3  times  a  day,  not  5  ;  the  Sunnis 
pray  with  their  arms  folded,  the  Shi'as  with  their  arms  straight  down 
at  their  sides.  A'ghd  Khdn  rebelled  in  Persia  in  1838,  and  in  1840 
fled  to  Sindh.    The  Khojahs  gave  him  so  much  money  that  he  was 

*■  See  Morley's  "  Administration  of  Justice  in  India,"  page  250. 


Sect.  I.  CASTES   AND   TRIBES— HALIS — WARALIS.  45 

able  to  levy  and  maintain  a  body  of  horse,  which  aided  us  in  1841- 
1842,  for  which  he  got  a  pension  in  1843.  He  came  to  Bombay 
in  1845.  There  are  2,810  families  of  Khojahs  in  Sindh;  in 
Kathiawad,  5,000 ;  in  Bombay,  1,400 ;  in  Zanzibai^,  450 ;  in 
Maskat,  4do. 

Halls,  lit.  "  ploughmen,"  are  hereditary  servants,  or  serfs,  and  are 
of  various  tribes — Chodhras,  Ndikds,  Dhondias,  and  Kolls.  They 
live  in  groups,  forming  distinct  hamlets.  Their  dwelling  is  a  hut 
with  a  single  room,  made  of  cane,  plastered  with  mud,  and  thatched. 
A  piece  of  matting  to  sleep  on,  and  a  few  earthenware  cooking 
vessels,  are  all  their  fumitui'e.  The  men  wear  a  scanty  and  coarse 
cloth  called  a  dhot,  with  one  for  the  head  called  fdlin.  The  women, 
a  sheet  called  sdlio.  Their  master  gives  them  these  once  a  year,  or 
more  generally  they  buy  them  out  of  their  extra  earnings.  They 
are  fed  in  the  public  room  of  their  master's  house  on  millet,  bread, 
pulse,  and  a  jug  of  whey.  They  work  from  6  a.m.  to  sunset.  When 
there  is  no  work  in  the  fields,  the  Hdli  cuts  faggots  and  takes 
them  to  market.  On  the  price  of  this  he  subsists,  as  he  gets  no 
grain  from  his  master  at  such  timp.  When  the  serfs  of  different 
masters  marry,  the  man  continues  to  work  for  his  master  and  the 
woman  for  hers.  The  children  are  divided,  or  if  there  is  only  one 
son  his  seiTices  are  shared.  A  Avidow  may  marry  again,  but  her 
son  by  the  first  marriage  is  bound  to  the  service  of  her  first  hus- 
band's master.  Treated  with  kindness,  the  Halis  are  contented,  and 
from  their  extreme  ignorance  are  happier  and  perliaps  better  fed 
than  if  they  depended  on  themselves. 

Depressed  Castes. — Hindus  consider  the  touch  of  these  castes  pol- 
lution. They  are  Dhers,  Bhangias,  and  Mhdrs.  They  are  generally 
employed  as  sweepers.  A  few,  however,  have  been  educated,  and 
there  is  one  in  a  government  office  at  Bombay. 

Kolis. — These  in  the  Ahmaddbdd  Collectorate  alone  number 
208,053,  and  are  divided  into  Talahda,  numbering  146,517,  and 
Chuvalia,  57,750.  Under  the  Marathas  they  were  in  a  chronic  state 
of  revolt,  were  treated  as  outcasts,  and  called  Mehvds,  or  "  faithless." 
Some  of  them  are  now  village  watchmen,  trackers,  and  labourers, 
but  most  are  well-to-do  husbandmen.  They  are  undoubtedly 
aborigines,  and  belong  to  the  dark  races. 

The  Wdralis. — The  following  is  the  account  of  this  tribe  given  by 
Dr.  Wilson  in  the  7th  vol.  of  the  "  Trans,  of  the  Roy.  As.  Soc.j" 
p.  14  :— 


"  When  Dr.  Smyttan  and  I  went  out  to  view  the  village  of  Umargaupa, 
we  found  three  or  four  WAralls,  who  bad  come  down  from  the  jungles 
with  the  view  of  disposing  of  bamboos  which  they  had  cut.  Their  hair 
was  black  and  lank ;  their  bodies  were  oiled ;  and  altogether  they  had  a 
very  wild  appearance.  They  spoke  MarAthi,  and  seemed  to  be  highly 
amused  at  having  a  European  to  speak  with  them.  On  questioning  them, 
we  found  that  they  have  no  connection  either  with  the  Brdhman  or  the 
Hindii  religion,  that  they  have  priests  of  their  own,  and  very  few  re- 
ligious rites  of  any  kind,  and  that  these  rites  principally  refer  to  mar- 


4G  INTRODUCTION,  Scct.  I. 

riages  and  deaths.  They  move  about  in  the  jungles  according  to  their 
wants,  many  of  their  villages  being  merely  temporary.  Their  condition 
is  well  worthy  of  being  inquired  into.  In  an  old  book  of  tr-'ivels,  I  find 
their  tribe  represented  as  much  addicted  to  thieving.  In  the  Pur^as, 
they  are  spoken  of  as  the  Kdlaprajd,  in  contradistinction  to  the  common 
Hindiis,  who  are  denominated  the  SubhrAprajd.  There  are  other  tribes 
in  the  jungles  whose  state  is  similar  to  theirs,  and  should  be  investigated. 
The  wildness  of  their  country  and  the  difficulties  and  dangers  of  moving 
in  it  are  obstacles  in  the  way  of  research. 

"  They  were  the  most  ignorant  persons  I  have  ever  met  with.  They 
answered  all  my  questions  with  the  exclamation,  *  How  is  it  possible  for 
Its  to  know  such  matters  ?  *  and  laughed  most  immoderately  at  my  inquiries, 
both  as  to  their  novelty  and  the  idea  of  my  expecting  them  to  know  any- 
thing about  them.  Two  days  afterwards,  at  a  neighbouring  village,  I  sat 
down  beside  a  small  company  with  the  view  of  examining  them  at  length 
respecting  their  tenets  and  habits.  Amongst  other  questions,  I  asked 
them  if  Siey  expected  to  go  to  God  after  death.  *  How  can  we  get  to 
God  after  death  ? '  said  they ;  *  men  even  banish  us  from  their  abodes ;  how 
will  God  allow  us  to  approach  him  ?  * 

**  After  leaving  Kakholl,  two  marches  from  Ddman,  we  visited  a  con- 
siderable number  of  other  htctteries  belonging  to  the  Wdralis,  and 
situated  in  the  Company's  territories.  The  principal  of  them  were  those 
of  Kuddd,  Parjl,  Dhabdrl,  Phalsunl,  Kinhauli,  Thaldsarl,  and  Pirn  purl. 
The  boundaries  of  the  country  of  the  Waralls  it  is  difficult  to 
specify.  Their  principal  locations  are  Nehar,  Sanjdn,  Udwach,  BAharach, 
Asharl,  Thaldsarl,  and  Gambirgad.  They  are  also  found  near  the 
coast,  but  less  frequently  the  farther  south.  Their  total  number  may  bo 
about  10,000. 

"  The  Wdralis  are  more  slender  in  their  form  than  the  common  agri- 
culturists in  the  Mardtha  country,  and  they  are  somewhat  darker  in  their 
complexion.  They  seldom  cut  either  the  hair  on  their  heads  or  beards  ; 
and  on  ordinary  occasions  they  are  but  slightly  clothed.  Their  huts  are 
sometimes  quadrangular  and  sometimes  circular,  and  on  the  whole  are 
very  convenient,  being  formed  by  bamboos  and  bramble  twisted  into  a 
framework  of  wood,  and  so  thickly  covered  with  dried  grass  as  to  be  im- 
pervious both  to  heat  and  rain.  They  do  not  rear  many  cattle  ;  but  they 
have  a  supei-fluity  of  domestic  fowls.  The  wood  which  they  fell  near  the 
banks  of  some  of  the  principal  streams  brings  them  some  profit;  and 
altogether  they  appear  to  be  in  comfortable  circumstances.  It  is  pro- 
bable, from  tneir  consciousness  of  this  fact  and  their  desire  to  preserve 
themselves  from  the  intrusion  of  other  tribes,  that  many  of  them  are  not 
unwilling  to  be  esteemed  sorcerers.  They  are  immoderately  addicted  to 
the  use  of  tobacco,  which  they  purchase  on  the  coast ;  and  almost  every 
man  amongst  them  carries  the  materials  for  striking  a  light  for  smoking, 
in  a  hollow  cocoa  nut.  They  are,  unfortunately,  fond  of  ardent  spirits, 
and  the  Pdrsis  have  many  shops  in  the  wilderness,  placed  under  Hlndi!L 
servants,  for  their  accommodation.  The  scarcity  of  money  is  no  obstacle 
to  their  indulgence,  as  liquor  can  be  procured  for  grain,  gi-ass,  wood,  or 
any  other  article  which  may  be  at  their  disposal. 

"  There  are  many  ImU,  or  family  divisions  amongst  the  Wdralis,  such 
as  the  RAvatiA,  Bh&ngard  (that  of  the  chief),  Bhdvar,  Sankar,  Hleyand, 
Meria,  Wdngad,  Thakarid,  Jhadavd,  Karbat,  Bhanddr,  Konddrid,  &c. 
The  clans  indeed  are  so  numerous,  that  we  are  forced  to  come  to  the 
conclusion  that  they  must  at  one  time  have  been  a  very  powerful  people. 
The  population  appears  to  be  at  present  neai'ly  stationary.    On  account 


Sect.  I.  CASirs  and  tribkh-  the  katodis.  47 

of  the  tmlieolthincss  of  the  jungles,  many  of  the  children  are  cut  ofP  at  a 
very  early  age.    No  person  marries  in  his  own  clan. 

'*  The  Wdralt  villages  have  not  the  common  officers  found  in  similar 
places  among  the  Max&thas.  They  have,  generally  speaking,  a  head  maii, 
who  is  in  some  degree  responsible  to  the  government  for  their  behaviour. 
The  W^ralis  are  not  particularly  noted  for  crime.  Unless  when  calamities 
overtake  them,  they  are  not  frequent  in  their  visits  to  the  images  of 
W&ghid,  their  deity,  which,  at  the  best,  are  only  rude  forms  of  a  tiger. 
They  have  an  annual  service  for  the  dead,  when  their  hhagaU,  or 
elders,  repeat  incantations,  kindle  lights,  and  strew  flowers  at  the 
place  where  the  ashes  of  the  dead  have  been  scattered.  They  par- 
tially observe  the  two  festivals  of  the  Shimgd  and  Dird/i,  which  arc 
connected  \7ith  the  vernal  and  autumnal  equinoxes,  and  which,  though 
celebrated  by  the  Hindiis  in  general,  are  often  supposed  to  be  ante- 
Brdhmanical." 

The  KdtodU, — The  Kdtodis  receive  their  name  from  the  occupation  on 
which  they  are  principally  dependent  for  support,  the  manufacture  of  the 
Kat,  or  terra  japonica,  from  the  Khair  tree,  or  Acacia  catechu.    They 
principally  inhabit  the  part  of  the  northern  Eonkan,  which  lies  along 
the  base  of  the  Sahyddri  range,  and  is  intermediate  between  the  N&e^ik 
and  Fund  roads.    A  few  of  them  may  be  occasionally  found  on  the  £. 
face  of  the  Ghdts,  in  the  same   latitude  as  the  district  above   men- 
tioned.   Major  Mackintosh,  who  has  written  an  interesting  notice  of  the 
manner  in  which  they  prepare  the  catechu,  and  of  some  of  their  peculiar 
habits,  speaks  of  them  as  also  inhabiting  the  jungles  of  the  Ath^visi  be- 
tween the  Ddman  Gangd  and  Tapti  Bivers.     *'  They  may  be  considered 
as  nomades  to  a  certain  extent,^'  he  says,  "for,  notwithstanding  they 
always  reside  in  the  same  countiy,  they  frequently  change  their  phice  of 
residence.   If  we  are  to  believe  their  own  account,  they  have  been  settled 
in  the  Athdvlsl  from  time  immemorial.    They  have  the  tradition  among 
them  that  they  are  descendants  of  the  demon  lUvana,  the  tyrant  monarch 
of  Lank&,  and  the  same  whom  the  God  Rdma  vanquished,  and  whose 
exploits  are  related  by  the  distinguished  poet  Valmlki."    They  have  not 
settlements  of  their  own,  like  the  W^a)is,  but  they  live  as  outcasts  near 
villages  inhabited  by  other  classes  of  the  community.    They  are  held  in 
great  abhorrence  by  the  common  agriculturists,  and  particularly  by  the 
Br^hmans,  and  their  residences  are  wretched  beyond  belief.    Among 
other  things,  they  eat  rats,  lizards,  squirrels,  blood-suckers,  the  black- 
faced  monkey,  swine,  and  serpents.   They  will  not  touch  the  brown-faced 
monkey,  which  they  say  has  a  human  soul.  They  will  pawn  the  last  rags 
on  their  bodies  for  a  dram.    The  natives  have  a  great  dread  of  their 
magical  powers.    Their  names,  like  those  of  the  Wdralls,  are  entirely 
dikerent  from  those  of  the  Hindiis.   Of  a  future  state  they  know  nothing. 
When  a  death  takes  place,  they  give  food  to  crows,  and  call  out  M/va  I 
Mva  I  crow  1  crow  1    They  say  it  is  an  old  custom,  but  do  not  know  the 
reason.    The  cost  of  a  wife  is  fixed  at  2  rs.    Marriage  is  performed  by 
placing  a  chaplet  of  leaves  on  the  bride's  head,  and  then  on  the  bride- 
groom's ;  after  which  both  are  smeared  with  turmeric.    When  they  go  to 
tiie  jungle  to  prepare  Kdt,  they  hold  their  encampments  sacred,  and  will 
suffer  no  one  of  another  caste  to  approach  without  giving  warning.    The 
K6t  is  prepared  from  the  inner  portion  of  the  khair  tree,  by  boilLig  and 
then  inspissating  the  juice.    Before  felling  a  tree,  they  select  one,  which 
they  worship  by  offering  to  it  a  cocoa-nut,  burning  frankincense,  and 
applying  a  red  pigment.    Then  they  pray  to  it  to  bless  their  under- 
taking. 


48 


INTRODUCTIOX, 


Rect.  I, 


SKELETON  ROUTES. 


1.  Tour  to  Hie  Pnncipal  Caves  in  (lie  Homhay  Presidency.  — 
Bombay  to  Eleplianta,  Thdna,  Bhdiidtip,  Kdnhari,  Kalydn,  the 
Temple  of  Amamath,  Nashik,  Ahmadnagar,  Jimnar,  Fund,  Sholapiir, 
Tuljapiir,  Bljapiir,  Kaladgl,  Bddamf,  Dharwad,  Bel^h,  Gadak 
and  Lakkuiidi,  Kolliupur,  Panhala,  Sdtara,  MahdbaleSiwar,  Fund, 
Bombay. 


From 


Bombay 
Elephauta 
Thdua    . 
Bhanddp  . 

Ednhaxi 

Kalydn    (to 

back)     . 
Kalydii  . 
Karli 
Ndshik  . 


and 


Railway  or 

To 

OTHER  Carriage, 

Miles. 

Time.   Expense. 

Boat. 

d.  h.  m. 

rs.  an. 

Eleplianta     . 

Boat 

5 

0    10 

3    5 

Thana                .    . 

Boat  .        .        .    . 

12 

0    4    0 

10    0 

Bhandup 

G  I.  F.  Ry.   . 

4 

0    0  12 

0    0 

Kdnhari    .        .    . 

Bullock  cart,  pony, 

or  palanquin  .    . 

*» 
i 

0    2    0 

5    0 

Kalydn  . 

Cart  or   palki  for 
5  m.,  then  12  ni. 

in  G.  I.  P.  Ry.   . 

17 

0    3    0 

6    8 

Amarndth         .    . 

Cart  .       . 

9 

0    2    0 

8    0 

Karlf     . 

G.  I.  F.  Ry.  . 

51 

0    3  31 

4  13 

Nashik      .        .    . 

G.  I.  F.  Ry.      .    . 

:52 

0    4  14 

7  13 

Ahnin<lnn:^'nr . 

61  m.  to  Nandgdoii ) 
by  G.  I.  F.  Ry.,  [ 
02  m.  by  tonga  .  ) 

G.  I. 

F.  Rv. 

12'I 

0  12  28 

6  11 

Tonga  23    0 

=  28  11 

.Tunnar      .        .    . 

Tonga 

•JO 

0    8    0 

22    0 

Puna 

Tonga                .     . 

(H) 

0    8    0 

22    0 

Sholapur  ,        .    . 

G.  I.  P.  Ry.   . 

144 

0    K  2.'> 

26     0 

Bijapur . 

Tonga       .        .    . 

00 

0    i>    0 

22    0 

Tuljapiii-  .        .    . 

Tonga    . 

:>0 

0    8    0 

20    0 

Kaladgi . 

Tonga    . 

•>4f 

0    9    0 

20    0 

lid^ldim     .        .    . 

Tonga       .        .     . 

20 

0    5    0 

10    0 

Gadak    . 

Tonga    . 

:!($ 

0    7     0 

18     5 

liakkun^i  .       •    • 

Tonga 

12 

0    3    0 

9    0 

Dhdrwd4 

Tonga    . 

.47 

0    7    0 

30    0 

Belgdon    .        .    . 

Tonga        .        .     . 

48 

0    7    0 

30    0 

Yelamma 

Tonga    . 

70 

0  10    0 

.35    0 

Gotiir  and   Mahdr 

baleshwar      .    . 

Tonga       .       .    . 

213^ 

6    0    0 

68    0 

Gokak(toand  back) 

Tonga    . 

36 

0    7  30 

27    0 

Fund.        .        .    . 

Tonga               .    . 

77 

0    9  80 

30    0 

Bombay 

G.  I.  P.  Ry.  . 

119 

0    7    0 

11    3 

Ahmadnagar     .    . 
Junnar  . 
Puna. 
SholdpAr 
Sholdpilr  (to   and 

bock)  .    . 

B^dpiir . 

Kaladgi  .    . 

Bdddmi  . 
Gadak     (to      and 

back)     .        .     . 
Gadak    . 

I)hdrwd4  .        .    . 
Belgdoil   (to    and 

back) . 
Belgdoil    . 

Gotiir    . 

Mahdbaleshwar     . 
Puna.       .       .    . 


The  charge  for  Tongas  varies  very  considerably  in  different  locali- 
ties. As  soon  as  the  traveller  gets  off  the  Mail  Road,  he  may  have 
to  pay  a  rupee  a  mile,  or  even  more.  In  fact  he  is  entirely  at  the 
mercy  of  the  proprietors  of  the  Tongas,  and  it  is  very  much  to  their 
credit  that  they  seldom  or  never  attempt  to  charge  more  than  what 
is  reasonable.  The  charges  of  course  do  not  include  food  and  potables, 
which  the  traveller  must  provide  for  himself  at  large  stations,  and 
carry  with  him  in  a  tiffin  basket.  Wherever  there  is  a  mess-man  he 
Avill  be  able  to  get  curry  and  rice  always,  and  sometimes  fowl  and 
soda-water. 

2.  To  visit  tlie  Temples  and  Mosques  in  Kdthiawdd. — Bombay  to 
Surat,  Bhaunagar,  Wallah,  Songadh,  Palitand,  Shatrunjay,  Rdjkot, 
Nowaiiagar,    Dwdrka,     Bet,   Virawal,    Somndth,    Jiindgddh    and 


Sect  I. 


ROUTES  TO  CAVES — LAKGUAGES. 


49 


Gim^,  Jaitpur,  Gondal,  Rdjkot,  WadhwAn,  Ahmaddbad,  Bhardch, 
Bombay. 


From  To 


Railway  or 
OTHER  Carriage,   Miles.  Time.   Expekhe. 
Boat. 


Bombay . 

Sonit 

Bhaunagar 

Wallah 

Songa^h 

Palitdni    . 

Songadli 
R^Jkoi 
Nowaiiagar 
Dwirka 
Dw&rka . 
Virdwal     . 

Viriwal . 
Jundga^h . 
Jim&ga4h 
RiUkot  . 
Wadhwan . 
Al^maddbacl 
Bhanich    . 


8urat     . 

Bhaunagar        .    . 
Wallah  . 

Songadh  .        .     . 
Palitdiia 
8hatraiijay       und 

back  to  So]ig>i4h 
Rcgkot  . 

Nowanagar       .    . 
Dwarka . 

B^t  And  back    .    . 
Virawal . 
Somndthand  back, 

and  stay  1  day  . 
Jimdga4h 
Girnar  and  back    . 
imkof  . 

Wadhwan .        .    . 
Abniadabdd  . 
Bhanich    .        .    . 
Bombay 


d.  h.  m. 

n.  in. 

B.  B.  and  C.  I.  Ry. 

164 

0  11  45 

12  IS 

Steamer    .       .    . 

90 

0  12    0 

6    0 

Tonga    . 

22 

0    3    0 

l4    0 

Tonga               .     . 

12 

0    2    8 

7    0 

Tonga    . 

14 

0    2    0 

8    0 

Tonga  and  cai-t    . 

20 

0    4    0 

8  14 

Cart  or  tonga 

78 

12    0 

15    0 

Cart  .... 

58 

0  20    0 

10    8 

Steamer. 

90 

0  12    0 

20    0 

Cart  and  boat   .    . 

40 

0    4  15 

20    0 

Steamer 

138 

0  18    0 

25    0 

Cart  .... 

4 

2    0    0 

5    0 

Cart 

53 

3    0    0 

9  15 

Chair         .        .    . 

10 

10    0 

8    0 

Cart 

60 

3    0    0 

11    4 

Cart  .... 

72 

10    0 

14    8 

B.  B.  and  C.  I.  Ry. 

80 

0    6    0 

6    4 

B.  B.  and  C.  I.  Ry. 

105 

0    3  40 

8    3 

B.  B.  and  C.  I.  Ry. 

203 

0  10    0 

15  13 

§  U  LANGUAGES   OF   THE   BOMBAY  PRESIDENCY. 

Amongst  the  Bhils  and  Kolis  and  other  wild  tribes  there  are  many 
dialects,  but  the  3  principal  languages  are  Hindustan!.  Mardthi,  and 
Gujardtl,  as  given  m  the  vocabulary  and  dialogues.  The  Hindi!uit^ 
spoken  in  the  Bombay  Presidency  is  fer  from  being  as  pure  as  that 
in  use  at  Dilli  and  LaMmau,  and  is  mixed  with  Mtu^^hi  and  Portu- 
guese words.  Nevertheless,  in  the  families  of  high-class  Mu^am- 
madans,  such  as  those  of  the  descendants  of  the  Niiwdb  of  Surat, 
of  LiUfullali,  and  of  the  Nuwdb  of  Nashik,  the  true  Urdii  will  be 
heard. 

The  Marathi  language  has  two  distinct  lingual  elements,  the 
Scythian  or  Turanian  and  the  Sanskrit.  Almost  all  the  words  with 
initial  cerebral  letters,  and  those  with  the  double  letter  ih,  are  Scy- 
thian. But  the  proportion  of  Sanskrit  words  in  Mardtnl  is  much 
larger,  and  may  amount  perhaps  to  almost  ^ths  of  all  the  words  in  the 
language.  The  earliest  mention  of  the  Mardtha  country  is  in  the 
Mdndvanso,  where  it  is  said  that  Ashoka,  in  the  i7th  year  of  his  reign, 
A.C.  246,  deputed  the  patriarch  Mdha  Dhammarakkito  to  Mahdratta, 
which  is  the  Pdll  form  of  Mahdrdsh^ra.  From  that  time,  if  not  earlier, 
Sanskrit  words  began  to  be  introduced  into  Mard^hl  But  it  must  be 
remembered  that  tnough  these  words  were  more  or  less  assimilated  to 
the  Scythian  element,  they  are  used  by  the  Mard^hl  people  in  a  purer 
form  than  that  which  they  have  retained  in  any  of  the  other  pro- 
vincial languages  in  India.  Even  the  ^ammar  of  Mardthl  is  much 
influenced  by  Sanskrit,  and  the  declension  of  the  nouns  is  effected 
by  Sanskrit  words  used  as  post-positions.  The  Mard^ha  numerals 
and  pronouns  are  borrowed  from  tne  Sanskyit,  from  which  also  come 
all  tne  technical  words  in  theology,  literature,  and  science.  The 
ancient  inscriptions  in  the  Cave  Temples  of  Mahanish^ra  are  in  Sans* 


IBomhay'-lSSO,] 


£ 


50  INTRODUCTION.  Sect.  1. 

krit  aiid  Pali.  The  oldest  specimen  of  Maratlii  is  an  inscription  on 
a  stone  found  near  Government  House  at  Parell,  which  relates  to  a 
grant  of  land,  and  is  of  the  date  of  1181  a.d.  The  literature  of 
Marathi  consists  of  poems,  founded  on  the  Sanskrit  epics  and  Purdruis, 
and  of  love  songs  and  Balcliars  or  Memoirs  of  Native  Princes. 

The  Gujardti  is  a  more  unformed  language  than  the  Mardthi,  and 
its  literature  is  more  scanty.  Authors  in  Gujardti  are  now  beginning 
to  appear,  such  as  Bahrdmji  Merwanjl  Malabar!  and  Ardasir  Dosabhdi 
and  others. 

A  few  words  may  be  required  as  to  the  system  of  transliteration 
adopted  in  this  book.  It  is  the  same  as  that  of  Prof.  D.  Forbes, 
author  of  the  "  Urdd  Dictionary,"  and  was  used  in  the  former  edition 
of  the  Handbooks  in  1859.  The  vowels  are  the  same  as  the  Italian, 
a,  dy  i,  iy  u,  A  The  diphthongs  are  e  compounded  of  a  and  i  ;  ai, 
compounded  of  a  and  i ;  o,  compounded  of  a  and  u  ;  and  au  com- 
pounded of  d  and  u. 

Taking  the  consonants  as  they  stand  in  the  English  alphabet,  c  is 
not  used  at  all,  k  being  used  for  it. 

J)  may  be  either  dental  or  cerebral.  In  the  latter  case  it  is  marked 
by  four  dots  over  it  in  Hindiistdni,  which  is  represented  by  d  here. 

H  has  two  forms  in  Arabic,  Persian,  and  Hindustani,  the  strong 
aspirate  is  represented  by  A. 

K  has  two  forms  in  Hindustdni  taken  from  the  Arabic,  the  gut- 
tural k  is  here  k. 

L  has  two  forms  in  Martithl  and  Gujardti,  the  second  and  peculiar 
form  is  here  /. 

N  lias  in  Marathi  a  peculiarly  nasal  and  also  a  cerebral  sound  as 
well  as  the  common  sound.  The  former  is  represented  here  by  ?/, 
and  the  latter  by  «. 

Ry  besides  the  common  sound,  has  a  cerebral  one  in  Hindustani, 
which  is  here  j\ 

S  has  three  forms  in  Hindustdni.  The  two  derived  from  the 
Arabic  are  denoted  here  by  ?  and  *. 

T  has  two  other  forms  in  Hindustdni  besides  the  common,  denoted 
here  by  t  and  t, 

Z  has  four  forms  in  Hindustdni,  the  three  borrowed  from  Arabic 
are  denoted  here  by  z,  z,  and  z. 


Sect.  I. 


VOCABULARY. 


51 


VOCABULARY  AND  DIALOGUES. 


English. 
One 
Two 
Three 
Four 
Five 
Six 
Seven 
Eight 
Nine 
Ten 
Eleven 
Twelve 
Thirteen 
Fourteen 
Fifteen 
Sixteen 
Seventeen 
Eighteen 
Nineteen 
Twenty 
Twenty-one 
Twenty-two 
Twenty-three 
Twenty-four 
Twenty-five 
Twenty-six 
Twenty-seven 
Twenty -eight 
Twenty-nine 
Thirty 
Thirty-one 
Thirty-two 
Thirty-three 
Thirty-four 
Thirty-five 
Thirty-six 
Thirty-seven 
Thirty-eight 
Thirty-nine 
Forty 
Forty-one 
Forty-two 
Forty-three 
Forty-four 

Forty-five 

Forty-six 

Forty-seven 

For^-eight 

Forty-nine 


Hindustani. 

MabathI. 

GUJAKAXi. 

Ek 

Ek 

Ek 

Do 

Don 

Be 

Tin 

Tin 

Trail 

Chai- 

OhAr 

Char 

PAnch 

Pdnch 

Pdiich 

Chhah 

S4h4 

Chha 

S&t 

Sdt 

Sdt 

Ath 

Ath 

A'th 

Nau 

Naw,  Nau 

Naw 

Das 

Dihd 

Das 

Igdrah 

AkrA 

Agidr 

Bdrah 

Bir& 

Bdr 

Terah 

TerA 

Ter 

Chaudah 

Chawadii 

Chaud 

Pandrah 

Pandh&rd 

Pandar 

Solah 

Sou 

Sol 

Satrah 

Satra 

Sattai* 

Ath^rali 

Athra 

Arddh 

Unis 

Ekunis 

• 

Oganls 

Bis 

Vis 

Wis' 

Ikis 

Ekvis  • 

Ekwis 

Bd'is 

BAwls,  Bewis 

Bdwis 

Te'is 

Tewis 

'J'ewls  or  Trcwia 

Ohaubis 

Chowis 

Chowis 

Pachis 

Panchwis 

Pachchis 

Chhabbis 

Tawis 

ChhaWwis 

Sata'is 

SattAvls 

Sattdwls 

Atha'is 

Aththdvis 

Aththawis 

Untis 

Ekuntis 

Ogantls 

Tls 

Tis  * 

Trls  ■ 

Iktis 

Ektis 

Ektris 

Battis 

Battis 

Batrls 

Tetis 

Tehtis 

Tetrls 

Chautis 

Chautis 

Chotris 

Paintis 

Pjwtls 

Pdiitrls 

Chhattis 

Chhattis 

Chhatrls 

Saintls 

Sadtls 

Sddtiis 

Athtis 

AthtlR 

Adtris 

Unchalis 

EkiinchdUs 

Oganchdlis 

Chdlis 

Chdlls 

Chdlls 

Iktilis 

Ektdlls 

Ekatdlls 

Be'Alls 

Betdlls 

Behet4i1fs 

TetAlis 

Tretdlls 

Tehetdlls 

Chau'dlls 

Chavvetdlis 

Chumdlls  m*  Ohau 
dlls 

Paintdlis 

Panchetalls 

Plstdlls 

ChhiydUs 

Shetdlls 

Chhentdlis. 

SaintdUs 

Sattetalls 

.     Sudtdlls  CT  Sadtdl 

Athtdlis 

AththeUlls 

Adltdlis  or  Udtalis 

Unchds 

Ekunpaunas 

Oganpachas 

£2 


52 


INTRODUCTION. 


Sect.  I. 


Ekglish. 

Fifty 

Fifty-one 

Fifty-two 

Fifty-three 

Fifty-four 

Fifty-five 

Fifty-six 

Fifty-seven 

Fifty-eight 

Fifty-nine 

Sixty 

Sixty-one 

Sixty-two 

Sixty-three 

Sixty-four 

Sixty-five 

Sixty-six 

Sixty-seven 

Sixty-eight 

Sixty-nine 

Seventy 

Seventy-one 

Seventy-two 

Seventy-three 

Seventy-four 

Seventy-five 

Seventy-six 

Seventy-seven 

Seventy-eight 

Seventy-nine 

Kighty 

Kighty-one 

Eighty-two 

Eighty-three 

Eighty-four 

Eighty-five 

Eighty-six 

Eighty-seven 

Eighty -eight 

Eighty-nine 

Ninety 

Ninety-one 

Ninety-two 

Ninety-three 

Ninety-four 

Ninety-five 

Ninety-six 

Ninety-seven 
Ninety-eight 
Ninety-nine 
A  hundred 


HlND^STANi. 

Pachds 

Ikdwan 

Bdwan 

Tirpan 

Chauwan 

Pachpan 

Chhapan 

Satawan 

Ath&wan 

Unsath 

Sdth  * 

Iksath 

Bdsath 

Tirsaith 

Chousath 

Painsdth 

Chhiydsath 

Satsath 

Athsath 

Unhattar 

Sattar 

Ikhattar 

Bahattar 

Tihattar 

Chauhattar 

Pachyattar 

Chhihattar 

Sathattar 

Athhattar 

• 

Unas! 

Assi 

Ik^sl 

Be'Asl 

TirAsi 

Ghaurasi 

Panchasl 

ChhiAsi 

Satdsi 

Athasi 

Naudsi 

Nauwe,  Nawad 

Ik&nawe 

B4nawe 

Tirdnawe 

Chaurdnawe 

Pach&nawe 

Chiyduawe    . 

Satdnawe 
Athanawc 
Nindnawc 
San 


MAKi-THf. 

Pannds 

Ekawan 

B&wan 

Trepan 

Chaupan 

Panchawan 

Chhappan 

Sattdwan 

Aththdwan 

Ekunsdth 

Sdth 

Eksa^ht 

Bdsa^ht 

Tresa^ht 

Chausa^ht 

Pansai^ht 

Tdhdsd^ht 

Satsa^ht 

Adsa^ht 

Ekunhattar 

• 

Sattar 

Ekdhattar 

Bdhdttar 

Trydhdttar 

Chaurydhattar 

Pafichydhdttar 

Shdhdttar 

Satydhattar 

Aththydhdttar 

Ekunaishiii 

Aishln 

Ekdnyshin 

Bydnysyhiii 

Trydiiyshin 

Chdurydnyshln 

Paiichdyshiii 

Shdnyshin 

Satydnyshlfi 

Aththydnyshln 

Ekunnawad     or 

Navydnyshln 
Nawdd 
Ekydnnav 
Bydnnav 
Tradnnav 

•   ■ 

Chaurydnnav 

Panehdnnav 

Shannav 

Satydnnav 
Athyannav 
Navyannav 
Shambhar 


GUJAKATI. 

Pachds 

Ekdwau 

Bdwan 

Trepan 

Choppan 

Panchdwan 

Chhappan 

Sattdwan 

Aththdwan 

Ogansdth 

Sdth 

Eksat 

• 

Bdsat 
Tresat 
Chosat 
Pdnsat 
Chhdsat 
Sadsat 
Adsdt 
Aganoter 
Sitter 
Ekoter 
Bohoter 
Tohoter 
Chumoter 
Panchot^er 
Chhoter 
Sittoter 

Iththoter  or  Aththo- 
ter 

• 

Oganyahesi 
Hensi 
Ekydsi 
Bydsl 

Trydsl 

Chordsl 

Parichdsl 

Chhdsi 

Satydsi 

Athydsi 

Nevyasi 

Newuii 
Ekdnnun 

• 

Bdnnun 
Trdnnun 
Chordnnun 
Panchdnnun 

* 

Chhdnnun  or  Chha 
newu;  ChhannuA 
Sattdnuu 
Afhthd^un 
Nuwd&nun 
So 


feect.  1. 

VOCABULARY. 

ExausH. 

Hindustani. 

Mabathi. 

GUJABATt 

Two  hundred 

Dosau 

Don  sheii 

Raro  or  Basen 

Three  hundred 

Tinsau 

Tin  shen 

Tran  seii 

Four  hundred 

Chdrsau 

ChAr  shen 

ChAr  sen 

Five  hundred 

Pdnch  sau 

Panch  shen 

PAnch  sen 

Six  hundred 

Chhah  sau 

SAhA  sheu 

Chhasen 

Seven  hundred 

S4t  sau 

SAt  sheii 

SAt  sen 

Eight  hundred 

Ath  sau 

Ath  shen 

Ath  sen 

Nine  hundred 

Nau  sau 

Naw  shen 

Naw  sen 

A  thousand 

Hazdr 

HajAr 

Ek  hajAr 

Ten  thousand 

Das  hazdr 

DahAhajAr 

Das  hajAr 

A      hundred 

Tiikh 

Laksh 

Ek  lAkh 

thousand 

A  million 

Daslikh 

DAhA  laksh 

Das  lAkh 

Ten  millions 

Krof 

Kot 

Karod 

Fractions. 

Ajmrndnk, 

Ajfurnank. 

A  quarter 

Pdo 

PAw 

PA 

A  half 

A'dhA 

ArdhA 

Ardho 

Three-qua.rters 

Pauni,  Paun 

PAwiin 

Pono 

One-and-a- 

Saw^ 

SawA 

SawA 

quarter 

One-and-a-half 

Deyh 

Dlr 

Dod 

One-and-three- 

PAune  do 

PAwne  don 

PonAbe 

quarters 

• 

« 

Two-and-a- 

Sawd  do 

SawA  don 

SawA  be 

quarter 

Two-and-a-half 

Ai-hdl 

Adits 

Adl 

Two-and-three- 

PAune  tin 

Pawne  tin 

PonA  tran 

quarters 

Three-and-a- 

SawA  tin 

SawA  tin 

SawA  tran 

quarter 

- 

Three-and-a- 

SAre  or  sArhe  tin  Sade  tin 

SAdAtran 

half 

Three-and- 

PAune  chAr 

Pawne  chAr 

PonA  chAr 

three-quarters 

• 

• 

Four-and-a 

SawA  chAr 

SawA  chAr 

SAwA  chAr 

quarter 

Four-and-a- 

SAye  chAr 

SAde  chAr 

SAdA  chAr 

half 

• 

Four-and-three- 

quarters 
A  third 

PAune  pAnch 

Pawne  pAnch 

PonA&  pA&ch 

TisrA  l^i^sah 

Ek  tritlyAns 

Ek  tritiyAnsh 

Two-thirds 

Do  tisrA  i^i^sah 

Don  tyitlyAns 

Be  tritiyAnsh 

A  fourth 

ChauthA  ^isAah 

Chautho  bhAg 

Chotho  hisso 

A  fifth 

PAnchwAn 
hi^^ 

Ek  panchumAiish 

Ek  panchamAnsh 

A  sixth 

Chhatha  hi^sah 

Ek  Sha^htha- 
mAiish 

Ek  sashtAnsh 

A  seventh 

SAtwAn  hi^^ah 

Ek  SaptAmAnsh 

Ek  saptamAnsh 

An  eighth 

*AthwAn  hi§Bah  Ek  a§htaniAnsh 

Ek  ashtamAiish 

A  tenth 

DaswAn  hissah 

Ek  dashAnsh 

Ek  dasAnsh 

53 


54 

INTRODUeTIOX. 

hect.  1. 

E^^GLISH. 

Hindustani. 

Marathi. 

GUJABATi. 

MantJix. 

Mahiiw. 

MaJiine. 

Makinna. 

Jamifliy 

Muharram 

Pausli 

Po§h 

February 

Snfar 

Mdgh 

MAgh  or  Mdha 

March 

Rab'lu  '1  awwal 

Phalgun 

Fagan 

April 

Rab'iu  '1  mm 

Chaitr 

Chaitr 

May 

Jamada 
'1  awwal 

Yatshakh 

Vaishakh  or  Vaisakh 

June 

Jamdda '1  akhir  Jyeshth 

Jeth 

July 

Bajab 

A^adh 

Ashdd  or  Asdd 

August 

Sh'abAn 

Shrdwan 

Shrdwan 

September 

Eamazdn 

Bhddrapad 

Bhadarwo 

October 

Shawwdl 

Ashmn 

Ashwan  or  Asho  or 
Ashwin 

November 

Zi  K'adah 

KdrtiV 

Kartak  or  Kartik 

December 

Zi  '1  hajj 

MdrgashirBh 

Mdgashar  or  Mdr- 
gashirih 

Days, 


War, 


War, 


War. 


Sunday 

Monday 

Tuesday 

Wednesday 

Thursday 

Friday 
Saturday 


East 
West 
North 
South 

Spring 
Summer 

Autumn 
Winter 


Itwar 
Plr 

Man  gal 
P>udh 
Jum'a  rdt 

Jum'aah 
Sanichar 


Mashrik 
Maghrab 
Shimdl 
Jamib 

Bahdr 
Garmd 

Khlzdn 
SarmA 


Abyss 
Air 
Atom 
Asheu 


PAtal 
Hawd 
Zarah 
Rdkh 


Raviwdr,  Aditwdr 

Somwar 

Mangalwdr 

Budhwdr 

Guruwar,  Brihas- 
patwdr 

Shuki'wdr 

Shaniwdr,  Mand- 
wdr 

Purr 
Pashchim 
Uttar 
Dakshin 

Vasant  jritu 
Unhdld,    Grlshm 

ritu 
Sharad  ritu 
Hinwdld, 

Hemant  ritu 

Doh,  Agddh  jal 
Hawd,  Vdyu 
Parmdnii,  Kan 
Bdkh 


Rawiwar  or  Aditwdr 
{in  writing)  Raweu 

Somwdr  (in  writ- 
ififf)  Some 

Mangalwdr  (i/i  writ- 
ing) Bhome 

Budhwdr  {in  writing) 
Budhe 

Bphaspatwdr  or  Gu- 
ruwdr  (in  writing) 
Gureu 

Hhukai-war  (in  writ- 
ing) Shukre 

Shaniwdr  (m  writing ) 
Saneu 

Purv,  Ugaman 
Paschim,  Athaman 
Uttar,  Ottar 
Dakshan,  Dakhkhan 

Vasant  ritu 
Undlo,  Hundlo 

Sard  fitu 
Shidlo 


Doh,  Dahro,  Pdtdl 
Hawd,  Vdyu 
Parmdnncn,  Kan,  Raj 
Rdkh 


r               Sect.  J. 

VOCABULARY. 

do 

ENGTilSH. 

HiNDlJSTANi. 

Marathi. 

GUJABATI. 

Bank  of  river 

jS'adikd 

Naditsd      kdnth, 

NadinoKdnthof;/'Tir 

kindrah 

Nadichentir 

Bay 

Kol,  Kh&ri 

Kol 

Akhdt 

Beach 

Kinarah 

Samudr  Kindrd 

Samudr  kdntho 

Bridge 

Pul 

Piil 

Pul 

Bubble 

Papoth 

Budbudd 

Parpoto 

Burning 

Sozish 

Jalnc 

Balwuii 

ChalV 

Khari 

Khadii,Sitadhdtu  Chdk,  Khadl 

Channel 

Nahar,  Khdrl 

Khddl 

Khddi,  Samudrdhuni 

Clay 

Mat! 

Chikana  mdti 

Chiknl  mdti 

Cloud 

Abr,  BAdal 

Abhr,  Dhag 

Wddal 

Charcoal 

EoUah 

Kolsd  ' 

Koelo 

Cold 

Thand 

Shltal,  Thand 

Tdhdd,  Tdhddun 

Continent 

Ehand,  Iklim 

Mahd  dwlp 

Khand,  Mahddwlp 

Darkness 

AndherA, 

Andhdr  Andhak  dr 

Timir 

^ulmdt 

Kdlokh 

Deluge 

Tiif  An  i  ntih 

Jal  pralay 

Jal  pralay 
Unddl 

Depth 

'Amak,  Onden 

Ondl 

Dew 

Shabnam,  6s 

Daiiw 

Jhdkal 

Drop 

KatrAh 

Thipkd,  Thenb 

Chhdnto 

Dust 

Dhiil 

Dhiil,  Raj 

Dhiil 

Earth 

Zamin,  Dunyd, 

Prithwi 

Mdti,  Jam  in, 

Mittl 

Prithwi 

Earthquake 

Zikilali 

Bhiikamp 

Dharti  kamp,  Kam- 
paro,    Bhu  kamp, 
Dharni  kamp 

Ebb-tide 

Ot 

Ohat,  Ohtl 

Ot 

Ferry 

Hoi-l 

Tar 

Tar 

Flame 

HVulah 

Jwdld,  Jal 

Jhdl,  Baltun  bhadko 

Jot 
Chamkdro,  AjwdUiu 

Flash 

Jhalak,  Ujala 

Tsamak,  Jhalak 

Fire 

A'g,  Atash 

Agnl,  Ag 

Dewtd,  Ag,  Agni 

Flood-tide 

Bhartl 

Bhartl 

Bhartl 

Fog 

Dhudn 

Dhuken 

Dhiiwai' 

Ford 

Utdr 

Utdr 

Pdr 

Fountain 

Chashmah 

Jhard 

Jharo 

Frost 

Him,  PdU 

Him 

HfAm 

Fuel 

Jaldne  ki  chlz 

Sarpan,  Phdiitln 

Sarpan 

Gravel 

Kankar,  Eeti 

Reiir,  Kankar 

Kdkrd  reti,  Jddi  reti 

Hail 

Zhdlah,  Old 

Gdrd 

Old 

^                    Heat 

Garmi 

Garmi,  Uahnatd 

Garmi 

Highway 

Shdh  rdh,  Sarak  Kdjmdrg 

Rdj  mdrg,  Dhori  rasto, 

J 

Mhoto  rdhd 

Hillock 

Tekri 

Tenk 

Diingrl,  Tekrl 

Ice  . 

Barf 

Barph,  Thidzale 
len  pdni 

-  Baraf,  Thljelun  pdnl 

Island 

Jazlrah,  Tdpii 

Bet,  Tdpi 

Tdpu,  Bet 

Inundation 

Bel 

Jal  pralay 

■Rel,  Piir ' 

liake 

Tdldb,  Sarowar  Sarowar 

Sarowar 

Lightning 

Bijli 

Vij 

Bijli 

Marsh 

Daldal 

Pdnthal  dzdgd 

Anjan 

Mountain 

Pahdr 

Parvat,  Dongar 

Parwat,  Dungar 

Ocean 

Samundar, 
Sdgar 

Sdgar,  Sindhu 

Mahd  samudr,  Sdgar 

r>6 


INTRODUCTIOX. 


Sect.  I. 


English. 
Path 
Plain 
Pond 

Promontory 
Quicksand 
Bain 
River 
Sand 
Sea 

Shower 
Smoke 

Snow 

Spark 

Soot 

Stone 

Stream 

Tempest 

Thunder 

Valley 


Water 

Well 

Whirlpool 

Whirlwind 

Wave 


Hindustani. 
Kastah 
Maiddn 
Tdldb 

Chorbalu 

Barish,  Bai'sat 

Nadl 

Ret 

Darya 

Jharl 

Dhiidn 

P414barf 

Chingl 

Kdjal 

Patthar 

Jhar4 

Tiifdn 

Garaj 

Khiil 

Paul 

Kii^n 

Bhanwar 

Bagiila 

Mauj 


Mabathi. 
Mdrg,  Wdt 
Maiddn,  Pdta 
Talen 

Bhiilnechi  touk 
Rutan 
PdTis' 

Nadl,  Sdiita 
Retl,  Walii 
Samudr 
Pawasdchi  sar 
Bhiir 

Barph,  Him 
Thingll,  Thingl 
Edjal)  Mas 
Dhondd  dagad 
Odhd,  Jhard 
Wkdal,  TuphAn 
GAjnen,    Megh 

garjnd 
Khoren,  Dard 


PAni 

Vihir 

Bhonwrd,  Jala 

bhram 
Wawatal,  Tsakra 

wdt 
Lahar,  Ldt 


GUJABATi. 

Rasto,  Wdt,  Marg 

Meddn 

Taldw 

Bhiishlr 

Garkijdy  tewi  reti 

Warsdt 

Nadl 

Reti 

Dariyo,  Dario 

Warsdtnun    jhdptun 

Dhunmddo  or  Dhun- 

wddo 
Baraf 

Changl,  Kdjll 
Dhons,  Mes 
Paththar 
Jharo 
Topdn 
Gadgaddt,    Megh 

garjnd* 
Oriin,    Dungrou 

wachchemun 

meddn,  Khln 
Pdni,  Jal 
Kuwo 
Wamal 

Watoliyo  wd 

Moje,  Daridni  lahar 


Kinship, 

Ancestors 
Aunt 


Boy 

Bride 

Bridegroom 

Brother 
Bachelor 


Childhood 
Children 


Sagdi, 

Ajddd 

Phuphl,Khdlah, 
Chachdnl, 
Mamdni 


Chhokrd,  Larkd 

Dulhan 

Diilah 

Bhdi,  Birddar 
Kii'drd, 
Mujarrad 

Bachpan 
Bachche 


Samhandh,         Sagpam^  Sambandh. 


Piirvaj,  Wadll 

Kdki  (paternal), 
Mdmi  (wife  of 
maternal  uncle). 
At     (father's 
sister),  Mdwasi 
(mother's  sister) 

Mulgd 

1^'awari 

War,  Nawaradev 
naward 

Bhdii,  Bandhu 

Kumdr,  Brahma- 
chdri,Lagnana 
ghdleld 

Bdlakpan,  Porpan 

Muleii,  Lekreii 


Piirwaj,  Waddwa, 

Wadilo,  Bdpdddd 
Kdki,  Mdmi,  Mdsi 


Chhokro 
Kanyd,  Wahu 
War  rdjd 

Bhdi 

Kunmdro,  Kunwdro 


Bdlpan 
Chhokrdn 


Nect.  1. 

VOCABULARA'. 

kU 

English. 

Hindustani. 

Marathi. 

GUJABATi. 

Cousin 

Chicherd, 

Tsulat  bhdii  (son 

Pitrdi,  Moldlbhdi 

Suserd, 

of  paternal 

Mamard, 

uncle),  Mdmc 

Khalera, 

bhdii  (maternal 

Bhdi 

uncle's  son),  Ate 
bhdii  (paternal 
aunt's     son), 
Mdi^s    hhkd 
'  (maternal 
aunt's  son) 

Daughter 

Larkl 

Mulgl,  Lek,  Ean- 
yd 

Dlkrl 

Dower 

Jahlz 

Andan.  Stri  dhan  Strl  dhan 

Dwarf 

Bilishtl  ddmi 

Thengnd,    Khujd  Wdmanjl,  ThlAgnnn 

manushya, 

mdnas 

Wdman 

Father 

Bdp 

Bdp 

Bdp,  Pitd 

Father-in-law 

Susard 

Sdsrd 

Sasaro 

Female 

'Aurat 

Stii,  Bdyako 

Ktrl,  Bdyadf,  Bdi 

mdniliK 

mdnas 

Girl 

Ohhokrl 

Mulgl 

Chhokrl 

Grandfather 

Dddd 

Ackd 

Dddo,  Bapdwo,  Ma- 
mdwo 

Grandmother 

Dddi 

^ii 

Ajl,  Dddl 

Heir 

"Wdris 

Wdrls 

Wdras 

Husband 

Khdwind, 

NawardjGharkarl  War,  Pati 

^ 

Khasam, 
Shanhar 

pati,  Dddld 

Infant 

Bachchd    dudh  Tdnheii  miU 

Dhdwamun  chhoka- 

pltd 

run 

Inheritance 

Wars 

Wdrafld 

Wdraso 

Kinsman 

Saga 

Bhdiiband 

Kutumbl,  Gotri 

Male 

Mard 

Purush 

Purush 

Man 

Adml 

Manushya, 
Mdniis 

Mdnas 

Manhood 

Admlpand 

Mdnuspan, 
Praudhpand 

Mdnasdl 

Marriage 

Shddl 

Lagn,  Wiwdh 

Lagn                  [shri 

Mother 

Mdii 

Ai,  Mdtd 

Md,    Mdtd,    Mdtd 

Mother-in-law 

Sdns 

Sdsii 

SdHU 

Mortal 

Mareaisd,Mauti 

Martya,Marandd- 

Mfitiyu  tulya 

(deadly),KdtU 

hin 

Nephew 

Bhatijd,  Bhdnjd  Putanyd       (bro- 

Bhatrijo,  Bhdn^j 

ther  88on),Bhd- 

» 

chd       (sister's 
son) 

Niece 

Bhatiji,  Bhdnji 

Putanl,  Bhdchi 

Bhatrijl,  Bhdnji 
Bhdnejl 

Nurse 

Ddi,  Diidh, 
Hldni 

Ddl 

Dhdw 

Old  Age 

Bufhdpd 

Mhdtdrpan,    Vri- 

Ghadpan,  Wridhdw- 

ddhatwa 

asthd 

Old  Man 

Budh^,  Zdlf 

Mhdtdra,Vridhdh  Doso 

manushya 


^H 

INTRODUCTION. 

«ect.  !. 

English. 

Hindustani. 

MarathI. 

GUJARATI. 

Old  Woman 

Budhi,  Zdlfah 

Mhdt&ri 

Dosi 

Orphan 

Yatim  ' 

Porka 

Wagarmd  bdpun,  Na 
bdpun  na  mdyun, 
or  Namdelun  chho- 
krun 

Posterity 

Nasi,  Aulad 

Wansh,  Santati 

Wansh,  Santati 

Sister 

Bahln 

Bahln 

Behen 

Son 

Bet4 

• 

Mulga,  Patr,  Lek 

Dikro 

Step-mother 

Sautell-mai 

Sdvatr  dl 

SdwakI  md 

Twins 

Towiim 

Juld 

Jol 

Uncle 

Chachd,  Kdkd, 

Kakd,  Mdma, 

(Paternal)  Kdkd, 

PhupherA 

(maternal)  Mds6, 

(paternal), 

Mdmo,  Kno 

Mdmii,  Khdlii 

(maternal) 

Widow 

BewA,  Kdnd 

Widhwd,  Rdnd 

Widhwd,  Rdndirdnd 

Wife 

Jorii 

Strl,  Bdyako 

Bdirl,  Wahn  dhanl- 
ydnnl  bayadl 

Woman 

'Aurat 

Strl,  BAyako  ma- 
nias 

Stri,  Bdi  mdnas 

Young  Man 

Jawdn  Adml 

Tarund  manu- 

• 

shya,  JawAn 
manushya 

Jawdn,  Juwdn  mdnas 

Youth 

Jawani,  Shal)ab  Jwdni,  Tdrunya 

Juwani,  Joban 

Pai'tx  of  tlir 

Badan  he 

Shariruchn  hhdg. 

,     Sluirirnd  hhig.  or, 

Body. 

'azu. 

avayara. 

Ankle 

Takhna.  Ohiitf, 

Ghotii 

Ghunti 

K'ab 

[haduH 

Arm 

BtizAi 

Bdhu,  Bhuj 

Bdhu,  Bhuj  pank- 

Back 

Pith 

Pdth 

Wdnso,  Pith 

Back-bone 

Kli-h 

Kand,  Kdnta 

Wdnsdnl  wachchc- 
nun  hdd 

Bile 

mt,  Safni 

Pitt 

Pitt 

Blood 

LoM,  Khun 

Rakt 

Lohi,  Rakt 

Beard 

DArhl 

Dkxhi 

Ddhaai 

Body 

Badan 

Sharir,  Aiig 

Sharir 

Bone 

Haddi 

Had 

Hdd 

Brain 

Magphz 

Magaj 

Bhejuii 

Breast 

Chhati 

Chhdtl,  Ur 

Chhdtl 

Breath 

Dam 

Dam,  Shwds 

Dam,  Swds 

Cheek 

Gdl 

Gdl 

Gdl 

Chin 

Thuddi 

Hanawatl 

Thudi 

Ear 

Kan' 

Kan 

kdn,  Karn 

Elbow 

Kuhni 

Kopar 

Kopriyuii 

Eye 

Ankh 

Dold,  Netr, 
Lochan 

Aukh,  Netr 

Eye-brow 

Bhauii,  Abrii 

Bhrii,  Bhunwdi 

Bhawuii 

Eye-lash 

Palak 

Papanltsd  Kesh 

Ankhnl  pdmpan 

Face 

Chihrah,  Munh 

Tond,'  Mukh 

Chfthero 

Fat 

Mota,  Farbih 

Pusht,  Tsarbi 

Jddo  (adj.),  Chai-bi 

(adj.),  Charl)! 

(subs.) 

(subs.) 

;sect.  1. 

VOCABULARY. 

oy 

English. 

HlNT>USTANi. 

MARATHi. 

GUJAHATi. 

Finger 

UngU,  Angusht  Bot; 

Angli 

Fist 

Miith 

Miith 

Muth 

Flesh 

Gosht 

Mds 

Mdns 

Foot 

Panw 

PAy 

Pag 

Forehead 

Peshani 

Kapdl 

KapAl,  LeUt 

Gland 

Giltl 

Pind,  Mans 
granthi 

Pind,  MAs  granthi 

Gum 

Gond 

Of    the    teeth) 

Ddntanu  thad 

Hiradi,  (exuda- 

■ 

tion  fi'om  a  tree] 

Dlk,  Goiid 

Hair 

BA\ 

Kesh 

Bdl,WAl,Mowdla,Kes 

Hand 

Hath 

HAt,  Kar 

Hath 

Head 

Sar 

Shir,  Doken 

Mdthuii 

Heart 

Dil 

Hfid,  Hridya 

Hfid,  Haiyun,  Dil 

Heel 

Erl 

Tdiich,  khoiit 

Edl 

Hip 

Chutar 

KamaretsA    kha- 
w&td 

Jhangno  thdpo 

Jaw 

Jabj-d 

Jabdd 

Jadbun 

Joint 

Sdndha 

Sdndha 

Sdndho 

Kidney 

Gurdl 

Miitra  piiid,  Gurd  Mutra  pind,  Gurdi 

Knee 

Zdnil,  Ghotau 

GudghA,  DophA 

Ghiitan 

Knuckle 

Girih 

Per'en,  Salidli 

Bedkun,Periyuii,  Per 

Leg 

Tang 

Tiingadl 

TaAg 

lip 

Month,  Lab 

(Inth 

Ot,  0th,  Ohot 

■  7               •         ^                            • 

Liver 

Kaleja  or  Kale- 
jah 

.  Kailj 

Kalejuii 

Loin 

Kamar 

Kamar 

Kamar,  Ked 

Lnngs 

Shush 

Phupphiis 

F^fasun,  Fufus 

MaiTow 

Clodii 

Asthisdr,  Hiidan- 

Asthi  sar,  Hadkan- 

talii  mendu 

manhcno  mcdo 

Mousta<^;hcs 

Mucliheu 

:\Iighi 

Muchh 

Mouth 

Muiih 

Toiid,  Mukh 

Mukh 

Nail 

NAkhuii 

Nakii 

Nakh 

Neck 

Gardan 

Mdn,  Grlwa 

Gardan,  Bochi 

Nose 

Nak 

Ndk 

NAkh 

Palate 

Tdlil 

Tdlii 

TAlwun 

Pulse 

Nabz 

• 

NMlchen  udnen 

Ndd,  Nadl 

Ribs 

Phdnsli 

PhdsH 

Pdnsli 

Side 

BA7,t 

Kiis* 

Kuksh 

Skin 

Chamra 

KAtadl,      Tsarm, 
Tsamdeii 

Twacha,  Chdmdl 

Sinew- 

Patthii 

Sndyu 

Sndyu 

Skull 

Khopri 

Mastakdchi   kan- 
wanchi 

Khopri 

Shoulder 

Khdnda 

Khdnda  Skandh 

Khando 

Spittle 

Thiik 

Thunki 

Thuk 

Sweat 

Paslna 

(iham 

Parsevo 

Stomach 

Pet 

Pot,  Jathar 

Jathragni,  Pet 

Tear 

Ansu 

A'siin,  Ashru 

Ashru 

Temples 

Kanpati. 
ShaVlkah 

Kanpattl 

Ankhnl  bajun. 

Thigh 

Rdn,  Jdngh 

MAndl,  Jangh 

Jiing,  Ran 

Throat 

Gala 

Gala" 

Galun 

ou 

INTBODUCTIOX. 

♦Sect,  i. 

English. 

Hindustani. 

Mabath!. 

GUJABATf. 

Thumb 

Angi!itha 

A'ngatha,  An- 
gushth 

HAthno  angotho 

Toe 

PAiiu  ka 
angutha 

PAydchen  bot 

Pagnun  Anglun 

ToDgue 

Zabdn,  Jlbh 

Jlbh 

Jlbh 

Tooth 

Ddnt 

Dant 

DAnt 

Waist 

Kamar 

Kamar,  Kati 

Ked 

Windpipe 

Nail 

Naraden,  NaU 

GalAni  najl,  Nardl 

Wrist 

Pahuncha 

Mangat 

Poncho,  KAndAu 

Vein 

Hag,  Nas 

Shir,  Nas 

Nes,  or  Nas 

Beauty 

Khiibsiiratl 

Saundarya,    Sun- 
darpanA 

Swanip,  Blip 

diseases. 

Amrdz, 

Bog, 

Bog, 

Ague 

Tap-i-naubat 

AntaryA  tdp,  Jwar 

TAhAdlyo  tAw 

Bald 

Ganjd 

TakalyA,     (bald- 
ness) Takkal 

TAlkun  upar  kesh 
nahln  te 

\ 

Blind 

AndhA,  NiblnA  A'ndhla 

Andhlo 

Bruise 

("hot,  KuchUl 

ThentsA,  KhontsA  ChhundAurin,  Kach- 

i*awaurm 

Cholera 

Wabd,  Haizah, 

Dzarl  marl,  Pat- 

Aghok,  WAkho,  Kog- 

Hag  ok 

ki 

liyo 

Cold 

Sardi,  Zukdm 

HiAw,       ThAAdl 

,  Thandl 

(catarrh) 

Sardl 

Cough 

Ehdiis 

KhoklA,  KhAnsi 

KAswAs,  KhAnsi, 
Khoklo,  Udharas 

Consumption 

Kshay 

Kshaj' 

Kshay,  Khai 

Deaf 

BahrA 

BahirA 

Bihiro 

Death 

Maut 

Mrityu,  Maran 

Mot,  Maran 

Digestion 

Hazm 

Jime,  PAchan 

PAchan,  Jarwun 

Dream 

KhwAb 

Swapn 

Swapn,  Sapnun 

Drowsiness 

Nind 

Gungi,  Susti 

Ghen,  Sustl 

Dumb 

Giingd 

MukA,  MonA 

Gungo,  Mungo 

Fainting 

Ghash 

Murchchha 

MurchhA,  Behosh 

Fever 

Tap 

TAp 

TAw,  Jwar 

Fracture 

Tiit 

Asthi  bhang 

Hastl  bhang,  HAdkuii 
bhAge  chhe  te 

Gout 

Ni^cfis 

WAtaroga 

Najlo 

Hunger 

Bhi'ik 

Bhiik,  KshudhA 

Bhilkh,  KshudA 

1 

Indigestion 

Bad  hazml 

Apachan.  Ajlru 

Ajiran,  Apacho 

Inflammation 

Sozish 

Bakta     dosha 
SantApan 

Lohi  wikAr 

Jaundice 

Kanwal 

KAmalA 

Kamalo 

Tiame 

Langrd 

LangdA 

Tjangdo 

Madness 

Diw&nagl 

Wed,  Khiil 

GAndopanun 

Measles 

PansA,    Gowart  Gowar 

Gowar 

1 

Numbness 

Sunsatd, 
Thithur 

Mehrl,  SunepanA 

BehermAri  jawun 

Ophthalmia 

Ankh  dukhnd 

Dole   yene,  Netr  Ankh  dukhwA  Awawl 

r6g 

Pain 

Dukh,  Dard 

PidA 

ShVil,  PidA 

beet.  1. 

VOCABULARY. 

61 

English. 

HiNDUSTAKI. 

MarAthi. 

GUJARATI. 

Kanh 

UbhAr,    Garmi 
ddnah 

GhAmolen,  Pural 

Ar&i 

Rheumatism 

B&i 

Sandlii  wdyu 

Sandhi  wAyu,  Wut 

Sickness 

Bimarl 

Bog 

Mandagl,  Jiw  chuno 
thay  chhe  te  chun- 
thddo 

Sleep 

Nlnd 

Nij,  Nidra 

tJngh.  Nidrd 

Smallpox 

Sitald 

Devi 

Sell,  Sitia  devl 

Spasm 

Khinch 

Petka  wal 

Tin,  Khench 

Sore 

(adj.)  Dukhtii 

Khat,Kshat,Bhag 

ChAdu,  Ojhdo,  Ogh- 

hii4,(8.)Pakla, 

wado 

GhAo 

Squint-eyed 

TirchhA  dekhne 
wdlA,  TerA 

Tirpd  pAhne 

UndM  pultino 

Stammering 

Larhar 

Totaren  bolne 

Bokduu,  or,  Toladuu 
bolwuu 

Swelling 

Siijd 

Siij 

Sojo 

Symptoms 

Nishdnen 

Chlnh,  Lakshau 

CMnh,  Lakshan 

Thirst 

PiyAs 

Tdhau 

Taras 

Voice 

Aw&z 

Swar,  Awdj 

Swar,  Awaj 

Watching 

Jdgnd 

Jdgtd 

Pohoro  bharwo,  Jiig- 
wau,  (protecting) 
R&khwun 

Weakness 

Z'aifi 

Ashaktatd 

NabaUi 

Wound 

Zakhm 

Ghdy,  Khat 

Gh&,  Jaklun 

Wrinkle 

Chin,  Kalchar 

Surakuti,  Chirmi 

Kachll,Karchll  kack- 
lun 

QiiadrujjL'ds, 

CMrpd'e. 

CJiatufJijxid, 

Chojmgan  janawar. 

Alligator 

Magar,  Ghajiyal  Magar,  Susar 

Magar,  Susar 

Animal 

Janwar,9aiwdi] 

L  Jiw,  Prani,  Jana^ 

Janwar,  PrAiii 

Antelope 

Chltal,  Haran 

W<11 

Haran,  M^ig 

Haran 

Ass 

Gada 

Gadhav 

Gadhediin 

Bat 

Chamgldar 

Wdgiit 

WdgluA  (yr  Wagol 

Bear 

Richh 

Aswal,  BhAlii 

Rlchh 

Beast 

Taiwan 

Chatu^hpad, 

Pashu 
BAn  dukar 

Pashu 

Boar 

Jangli  siir 

Suwar,  Rdni  dukar 

Brute 

Halwfin 

HaiwAn,  Pashu 

HewAn 

Buck 

Hamd 

KAlwit 

Hamo 

Buffalo 

Bhains 

Mhais 

Bhens,  PAdo 

Bull 

Nargdo 

Pol,  Sdnd 

SAnd 

Calf 

Bachera 

WAnsariin 

WAchhardun 

Camel 

tJnt 

TJiit 

tJnt 

Chameleon 

Girgit 

Saradd 

Sarado 

Cat 

Billl 

MAnj'dr,  Billf 

BilAdi 

Cattle 

Mawdshf, 

Guren 

Dhor 

Dawdh.  Dhoi 

t 

Colt 

Bacherd 

Shingaruii 

Wachher 

Cow 

GAe 

GAy 

GAy,  Gai 

Peer 

Haran 

Haran 

Haran 

Doc 

Hinii 

Harni 

Harani 

t}2 

l^TRoDUCTIo^^ 

sect,  i 

English. 

Hindustani. 

Makathi. 

GUJAKATi. 

Dog 

Kutta 

Kutrd,     Shwdu, 
Kukkur 

Kutro 

Elephant 

Hatlil 

Hattl,  Gaj 

Hdthl 

Elk 

8Ambar 

Sdrhbar 

Sdmbar 

Ermine 

KaJ^um 

Sinjydb,  Kdkum 

Sinjydb.  Kdkumii 

Ewe 

Bheri 

Mendhi 

Mendhi,  Gheti 

Foal 

Bachhcri 

Hhinganiii,  Bach- 

Wachherun 

hero 

"* 

Flock 

Gallah 

Kalap,  Jhufid 

Jhuiid 

Fox 

Lomri 

Khonkad, 
Konkad 

Lomdi 

Frog 

Mendak 

BedT^ik 

Dedko 

Goat 

Bakr'd 

Bakrd,  Bokad 

Bakrun 

Hare 

Khargosh 

Sasd 

Saso,  Saslo 

Horse 

Ghojra 

Ghoda,  Wdrd 

Ghodo 

Hound 

SbikAr  kd  kutta  ParadhltsA  kutrd  Shlkdri  kutro 

Hyena 

Tars,  Kaftar 

Taras 

Dipdun 

Jackal 

Siydl 

Kolha 

Shiydl 

Kid 

Halwan,   Bakri 

L  Bakrun,  Karadiin  Bakrinun  bachchuA 

kd  bachcha 

Lamb 

Mendlic  kd 

• 

bacha 

Koukruu 

Ghetfnnuii  bachchui 

Leopard 

Chitd,  Tenduji 

Chittd 

Dipdo 

Lion 

Sher,  Sinh 

Sinh 

Sinh,  Sahln,  Sdwaj 

Lizaixl 

Chhipkali 

Pal 

Pdl 

Mai-e 

Ghori 

Ghodi 

(4hocli 

Monke}' 

Bdndar,  Laiigui 

Wdnar,  Makud 

Wdnar 

Mouse 

(^huhi 

Uhdir,  Miishaiv 

tJndar 

Mule 

Khachar 

Khenchar 

•  Khachar 

Muskdeer 

Mushk  havaii 

Kastiiritsa  mrig 

Kastiirl  mpji' 

Muskrat 

Chichundari 

Chichundari 

Chachundra 

Otter 

Ud-bllAs 

Pdn  mdiijar 

Daiidi  kutniii 

Ox 

Bail 

Bail 

Balad 

Panther 

Chitd,  Tendiid 

Bibali'i 

Chitto 

Pig 

Siir 

Dukar 

Dukai' 

Porcupine 

Sahi,  Shalya 

Salu 

Sdbudi 

• 

Rabbit 

Khargosh 

Sasd 

Safialo,  Saso 

Ram 

Mendhd 

Mendhd 

Mendho 

Rat 

Chiilid 

Ghus,  Mushak 

Miish,  Ghiis 

Rhinoceros 

Gainda 

Geiida 

Gendo 

8able 

Samiir 

Samiir 

Samiir 

Sheep 

Bher 

Mendhd 

Ghetuii,  Mendhuii 

Squirrel 

Gilahri 

Khdr" 

Khaierl,  Khiskoli 

Tiger 

Bdgh 

Wdgh 

Wdgh 

Wolf 

Bheriyd 

Ldudgd 

Warn 

Birds, 

PaHndah. 

PalisM. 

PaMii. 

Adjutant 

Khages 

Khagendra 

Baglo 

Brood 

Pote,  Bachche 

Win,  Wet 

Murghi  wagere,  Pak 
shindn  bachcbun 

Chicken 

Murghi  kd 

Kombadichen  pi- 

Murghi  wager6  pak 

bachah 

liiu 

,  ehindn  bachchun 

fcect.  1. 

VOCABULAKY. 

b«J 

English. 

Hindustani. 

Mabathi. 

(JUJABATi. 

Cock 

Murgh,  Khuriis 

Kombada. 
Knkkut 

Margho 

Crane 

BagU 

Karkocha,  Sdras 

Baglo 

Crow 

Kauwii 

Kawala 

Kagdo,  Kdff 

Dove 

FAkhtah 

PdrwA  (Columba  Khabutar  pdrewuu 

(Enas),  Kabutar 

Duck 

Batak 

Badak 

Batak 

Eagle 

HumA,  'Ukab 

Garud 

Garud  pakshi 

Falcon 

ShAhin 

SasAnA 

Bdj,  Sakro 

Fowl 

Murgh 

Kombadeii 

• 

Marguii 

Game 

ShikAr 

Paradh,  Shikar 

Shikar 

Goooe 

Hans 

Hans 

Hans 

Hawk 

BAz 

Bahirl,  Sasand 

Bdj,  Sakro 

Hen 

Murghi 

Kombadi 

Marghl 

Heron 

BaglA 

Kraunch 

Baglo 

Hoopoe 

Hudhud 

Hudhud 

Hudhud 

Jungle  fowl 

Jangll  murgh 

Ban  kombadeu 

Rdnl  kukdo 

Kite 

Chll 

Ghdr 

Chll 

Nightingale 

Bulbul 

Bulbiil 

Bulbul 

Ostrich 

Shutur  murgh 

Shdhd  mric? 

Shdhdmrig 

Owl 

Ulii,  Chughd 

Ghubad 

• 

Ghuwad 

Parrot 

nm 

Popat 

Popat,  kiroto 

Partridge 

Tltar 

Titar,  Kawadd 

Titar' 

Peacock 

Mor,  Xaiis 

Mor,  Mayih- 

Mor 

Peahen 

Momi 

Ldiidor,  Mayuri 

l)hel,  Momi  mddd 

Pheasant 

Tadarw 

Kukke  kombada, 
Knkkud  kumbhu 

,  Kukkut  kumbdo 

Pigeon 

Kabiitar 

Kabutar 

Khabutar 

Quail 

Lawa 

Ldwd 

Ldwri 

Sparrow 

Chirya 

Chimanl,  ChicU 

Challi 

Spur-fowl 

Jangli  murgh 

Rdn  kombadd 

Rdni  kukdo 

Wagtail 

Dhobi  chiriya, 

Khanjan,  Khanj- 

•  Dhobi    chiryo,    Ma 

Mamola 

rit 

molo 

Fulws, 

Machhliijan. 

M(Ut'. 

Jldchhlio. 

Bombelo 

Bobila 

Bohbil 

Boubilo 

Crab 

Kenkra 

Khenkadeu 

Karchalun 

Eel 

BAm 

Niwatd,  Bam 

Bdm 

Hilfla  (the  Clu 

-  HilsA 

Hilsd' 

Hilsd 

pea  aloM) 

Mahasir 

Masir 

Mahasir 

Mahdsir 

Mango-fish 

Amb  machhll 

Tapshi 

Bhing 

Oyster 

KAlii 

Kdlav 

Kdlu 

Pomfret 

Chhamma 

Sarangd,  Halwd 

Chhamanuii 

Porpoise 

Siis,  PAur  ma- 

Gddd 

Darial  dukar 

chhll 

Sepia,  or  J  cuttle  Suphen 

MhdkiU 

• 

Gddo 

fish 

Carp,  orf  Cj/jm 

.  Rohi,  Rohu 

Rohi 

Roh 

nag    dc7iticu 

■ 

latux 

Shark 

Magar  machhll 
Nihang 

:,  Grdh,  Muahl 

Mushi 

64 


INTRODUCTION. 


Sect.  I. 


English. 
Shrimp 
Skate 
i^le 
Turtle 
Whale 


Ifueots. 

Ant 

Bee 

Beetle 

Bug 

Butterfly- 
Caterpillar 

Centipede 

Cochineal  worm 

Fire-fly 

Fly 

Gnat 

Grasshopper 

Leech 

Locust 

Louse 

Maggot 

Millepede 

Moth 

Scorpion 

Silk-worm 

Snail 

Snake 

Spider 

Swarm 

Tick 

Vermin 

Wasp 

White  ant 


HiNDIJSTANi. 
Chingirl 
Ldkad 
Jhlpl 
Kachhwa 

Wal     machhll,  Timi 
Hiit. 


Mabathi.  Gujarati. 

Kolambi/jhiiiga    Kolabhi,  Kolanl 
Bh^as  L&kad 

Jhipatl,  Leph         Jhipdi 
Kdsava  Eachchhap 

Magarmachh 


Hasliar&tn'l'       Kitak  or  Kide. 

•  •  • 

arz,  Kire. 

MungijCheiinti,  Mungi 
(white)  Dlmak 
Shahd  ki  makhi  Madhu  mashi 


Xi(ako, 


Kldi 


Gubrauta  (cop- 

ris) 
Kha^al 
Tltrl 
Jhdnjhd 

Kankhajur& 

Eirm  kl]*a 

Shabtdb 

Makkhl 

T>&hs 

Tidi 

Jonkh 

Tiddl,  Malakh 

Jii 

Kirm 

Kankhdjiira 

Parwanah 

Bichhii 

Resham  kd  kir^ 

GhonghA 

Sdmp 

Makfl/Ankabiit 

Jhand  (of  bees) 

Chamiikan 
Klye  makore 
Bar,  Zambdr 

Dimak 


Mogar  (a  mallet) 

Dhenkiin 
Patang,  PAkoll 
Surwant,  Kusa- 
nid,  Kusarin 
Ghon,  Shatpadi 
KirmijAche  kiden 
Kddzaw4 
M^hi 

Machchhar,  dans 
Tol,  Gawatya  tol 
Dzdlii 
Tol* 

KidA,  AH 
Kanakhdjiira 
Patag,  Tasar 
Winchii 

Beshmdtsa  Kida 
Gogal  gdy 
Sap,  sarp 
Sutera,  Koli 
Ghongat  (of  bees) 

mohal 
Gochid,  Gochadl 
Kide,  Kid,  Muugi 
Gdiidhil  inasi, 

Kumbhdrin 
Wdlwl,  Udai 


Madh  mdkh, 
Bhamro 


Makan 
Patahgiyuii 
Kaiimlo,  Kdnmliyo 

Kido 
Kdnsalo 

Kirmajno  jiwado 
A'giyo 
Mdkh 

Machchhar,  Ddns 
Tid 

Jdlo  or  Jaro 
Tld 

■       ■ 

Jii 

Kldo 

Kankhajuro 

Tiio 

Wichhii 

Keshamno  Kido 

Gokalgdy 

Sdp,  sarp 

Karoliyo 

Mdkhno  dhaglo  or 

Sanmddy 
Chiino,  Chlmodi 
Kldl  makodl 
Dili!in  pddi!iari  makh 

Udhal 


Stones,  etc,  Pattliarivaghaira,  Daga4  wagaire,       PatJiaro  ivagerc. 

Agate  Aklk  Aklk  Aklk 

Alum  Phitkarl  Turti,  Phatki  Fatkl,  Fa^a^idi 

Amethyst  Marjls  Yakut  Ydkut 

Antimony  Surmah  Surmydchl  dhdtii  Surmo 

(CoUyrium  of)  Ku^al  Surmd 

Brass  Pltal  Htal  Pital 

Cat's-eye  'Ainu  1-hirrali  Lasani  Lasanio 

Crystal  Billaur  Bilori  Kautt  Kdch,  Bilor 


beet.  1. 

VOCABULARY. 

(^C^ 

English. 

Hindustani. 

Mabathi. 

GujabAti. 

Copper 

TAmba 

Tdmbeu 

Trdmbnn,Tardmbua 
Tdmbun 

Coral 

Murjdn 

Powaleii,  Prawdl 

Parwdtuii 

Carnclian 

'AW: 

Tdmbrd,  nr 

Ldl,  Dholo  Akfk 

Pdndhrd  Akik 

Diamonl 

Almas,  Hira 

Hird 

Hire 

Dross 

Mail,  Kit 

Mai,  Kit 

Mel,  Kit 

Emerald 

Zamarrud 

Pdts,  Markat 

Pdnuii 

Flint 

Abrak 

Chakhmakh 

Chakmak 

Gold 

Sond 

Soneii 

Sonun,  Sunuii 

Iron 

Lohd 

Lokhaiid,  Loh 

Lohodlun,  Lodhuii 

Jet 

Sang-i-miisa 

Kdr 

Sange  mushd 

Jewel 

Jauhar 

Batn 

Katn 

Lapis  lazuli 

Ldjaward 

Ldjaward 

Ldjaward 

Lead 

Sisd,  Surb 

Slseii 

Sisuii 

Loadstone 

Sang-i-ma^na- 
tis,  Ahanruba 

•  Loh  chumbak 

Loh  chuTTibak 

Marble 

Sangi  marmar 

Sang  marmar 

A'raspdhdn 

Metal 

Dhdt 

Dhdtn 

Dhdtu 

Mine 

Khdn 

Dhdtuchi  khdn 

Dhdtunf  khdn 

Mineral 

M'adanl 

Khanij 

Khanij  (i./?,  what 
comes  out  of  a 
mine,  Khdndmdn- 
thi  je  nikle  te), 
Dhdtu 

Pearl 

Moti 

Motiu,  Muktd 

Moti 

Quicksilver 

Simdb,  Pard 

Pdrd 

Pdro 

Ruby 

Yd^t 

Mdnik,  Ldl 

Mdnek,  Ldl 

Sapphire 

Nllam 

Shani,  Nil 

Nil 

Silver 

Chdndi 

Kupeii 

Rupuii,  Chd 

Steel 

Pauldd 

Tikheii 

Tlkhuii 

Sulphur 

Gandhak 

Gandhak 

Gandhak 

Talc 

Abrak 

Abhrak 

Abarak 

Tin 

Kalai 

Kathll 

Kalai 

Topaz 

Pukhrdj,      Za- 
barjad 

Pushkardj 

Pokhrdj 

Touchstone 

Kasauti 

Kasoti 

Kasotl 

Turquoise 

Flrozaii 

Perodzd 

Piroj 

Apparel, 

PoHhak^  Zihds. 

Poshdk, 

Poshdh. 

Boot 

Jiitl,  Mozah 

Charmi  payamojd 

Jodo 

Bracelets 

Pahunchi 

Chudd,  Kar 

PohoAchi,  Chudt 

bhi!i$han 

Brocade 

Kimkhvdb 

Kinkhdb 

Kinkhdb 

Button 

Ghundi 

Gundi 

Borlyun 

Cap 

Kutdh 

Topi* 

Topi 

Chain 

Zanjir,Lubddah  SdnkhU 

Sdnkli,  Sdnkal 

Cloak 

Jubbah,     Ang- 

Ghougadi,  Motd 

Ghughadi,  Mhoto 

arkhd 

dagld 

daglo 

Clothing 

Llbds 

Wastren,  Pang- 
hrunen 

Lugddn,  Wastrc 

Coat  (of  an 

Pagld 

Pagleii 

Aiigrakho,  Daglo 

European) 

(of  an  Indian)  Kurtl,  Kabd 

Angarkha 

[Bomfxiy- 

-1880.1 

p 

66 


li^TnODUCTION. 


Sect.  I. 


English. 
Cotton 
Drawers 
Ear-rings 

Embroidery 

Fan 
Girdle 

Glove 

Gown 

Handkerchief 
Linen 

Lining 

Loop 

Kecklace 

Needle 

Pocket 

Pin 

Ribbon 

Ring 


Seam 
Shirt 
Shoe 

Silk 

Skii-t 

Sleeve 

Stocking 

Thimble 

Thread 
Turban 

Veil 

Velvet 
"Woollen 

Food. 

Asparagus 
Appetite 

Barley 
Boiled 


HiNDUSTAKi. 

Rt:ii,  Kap&s 
Pdi  jamah 
Jhumkd,    Kun- 

dal,  Awezah 
Chikan-dozi, 

Gulkari 
Pankhd 
Kamarband 

Dastdnah 

Peshwdz 

Riimdl 
San 

Astar 
Phdnsd 
Har,  Kanthi 

Siii 

Khisd 

Tanchni 

Pattl,  Kor,  Fit 

Angushtarl,  (for 
nose)  Nath, 
(for  toes) 
Bichwa 

Dokhtj  Joj* 

Kamis 

Juti,(hom)Ndl 

Rishm 
Ddmau 
Afitin 
Mozah 
Angusht  pandh 

Dorl,  DhAg6 
Pagri 

BurV:'a 

Makhmal 
tJn  kd  kapi:d 

Khurdii,   Andjj 
Tfi'dm., 

Ndgdaun 
Bhiikh,  Ishtihd 

Jau 
Ubald  hiid 


MABlfHi. 
Kdpiis 

Ijdr,  Pdyjdmd 
Kundal,  l^air^- 

bhii^han 
Kashldd,  Bnti 

Pankhd,  Vijhund 
Pattd,  Kamar- 
band 
Hdtdtsd  mojd 

Gaun,  Dzhagd, 

Peshwdj 
Rumdl 
Tdgdchen  or  Sa^- 

dchen  kdpad 
Astar 

Mudan,  Phdsd 
Mdl,    Hdr,   GaM 

pattd 
Sui,  Sii 
Khisd 
Tdntsni 
Phit 
Angathi,  Mudrd, 

Mudi,    Kad^n, 

Mandal 

• 

Shiwan,  Dun 

Kamlj 

Jodd,  Pdyposh, 

Motsd 
Reshim 
Gher,  Ghol 
Bdhi,  Astani 
Pdymodzd 
Angustdn,  Bot 

Slit,  Dord 
Pdgoteii,  Mundd* 

sen 
Burkha,  Ofhnl 

Ghuugat 
MakhmaJ 
Lonkarlchen 

A'sparagas 
Bhuk,  Ki^hudhd 

Jau 

Ukadleld,  Rdiid- 

hcia 


GUJABlxi. 

Rii 

Ijdr,  Leiigo,  Payjdmo 

Chokdun,  Eimdal, 

Kadi 
Bharat,  Chikan 

Pankho,  Winjno 
Kamarbandh 

Hathnun  mojun, 
Dastdnd 

Gawan,  Jdmo,  Pesh- 
wdj 

Romdl 

Shannun  kdpad 

Astar 

Fd&do,  Fdnso 
Galiyuii  Kanthi, 

Hdr,  Gop-mdld 
Soi,  Soy 

Gajwun,  Khisuii 
Tdnchnl 
Pdto,  Fit 
Wintl 


Shiwan 
Khamis 
Jodo,  Paposh 

Resham 

Gher 

Bdnhi 

Pagnnji  moju 

Angusthnl,  Aiigothl, 

Angothadi 
Doro 
Pdghdl 

Burkho,  Ghuughat 

Makhmal 
tJnnun  kdpad 

Blwjan, 

Kdgdan 
Ruchi,  Bhukh) 

K^hudhd 
Jav 
Pakiiwclun,  Rdndhc- 

luu 


Sect.  I. 

VOCABULARY. 

©7 

English. 

Hindustani. 

Marathi. 

GUJA&iTi. 

Beef 

Gde  k&  Gosht 

Go  mdns 

Go  mds 

Bean 

BA\\&y  Lob4 

Ghewdd,  Warwa 

Walor 

Bread 

Rotl 

Bhdkar,  Poll, 
PAnw 

RotU,  Poll,  Pdiiuii 

Breakfast 

Ndshtah 

Nyahdri 

Hdjarl,  Kdshto 

Brinjal  (or  egg- 

' Baingan 

Wdngen 

Wengan 

plant) 

Bottle 

Shishah 

Shisd,  Eupd 

Shishf 

Broth 

Shorbd 

Mdsdchi  karhi, 
Rasd 

Sherwo 

Batter 

M^kah 

Loni 

Mdnkhan 

Cabbage 

Kobl 

Kobl 

Kobi 

Cauliflower 

PhiU  karam 

Phiilkobi 

Phrtlkobi 

Cheese 

Panlr 

Panir 

Panlr 

Cork 

Biij,  DattA 

Biij 

BAch 

Cream 

Mal^' 

Malai,  Sdi 

Malal 

Curds 

Dahl 

Dahin,  Chakkd, 
Dadhi 

Dahl 

Dainty 

Laziz 

Pakwdnn,  God 

Mi^htdn,  Pakwdn, 
Swddi^hth  ann, 
Lejatddr 

Dinner 

Khand 

Jewan,  Bhojan 

Jaman,  Bhojan 

Drink 

Shurb,  Pine  ka 

k  Pey,  Pdnly,  Piny- 

■  Pliiiin,  Piwdno  pa- 

chiz 

dtsd  paddrth 

ddrth 

Feast 

Ziy^at 

Jewandwal,  San^ 
Meiwdni 

Ujdnf,  Mehmdni 

Flesh 

Gosht 

Mds 

Mdns,  Gost 

Flour 

Kt& 

Pith,  Kanik 

Lot,  Medo,  K\o 

Fried 

BhunneU  hud 

Talaleleii 

Talelun 

Glass 

Edch 

Kdnts,  Kdnchc- 
chen 

Kdch,    Edchnun 

Gravy 

Ab-gosht 

Mdiis  ras 

Madsuo  ras 

Greens 

Tarkdrl 

Bhdji 

Tarkdrl,Shdk  bhdji, 
Shdk  tarkdrl 

Guest 

Mihmdn 

Pahnnd 

Parona 

Host 

Mezb4n 

Yajmdn,  Ghard- 

hani 
Murambd,  Mu- 

Ghar  dhani,  Yajmdn 

Jam 

Murabbd 

Murabbo 

rabbd 

Jelly 

Rubb 

J61i,  PhalpAk 

Chiknun 

Knife 

(pen)      ChAkii 

,  Tsdkii,     Surf, 

Chdkii 

ChhuTi 

Chhiirikd 

Milk 

DiWh 

Diidh,  K^hlr 

Diidh 

Millet 

BAjri 

Barag 

Bdjri 

Minced 

Koft,ah 

Chhindleleii 

Ehimo  karwo 

Mustard 

R4i 

Rdyl,  Mohri 

B.df 

Mutton 

Bher  kd  gosht 

Mendhrdchl 

Ghetannu,  or  Bhednu 

sdguti 

mdiiS 

Napkin 

Dastmdl 

Pus^en 

Mhodun,  Luchhwdno 
rumdl 

Oil 

Tel 

Tel 

Tel 

Pickle 

Achii* 

Lonchen 

Athdnu 

Pepper 

Mirch 

Kdiln  mircu 

Marl' 

V  2 

68 

INTRODUCTIOX. 

dcC V*  X  • 

English. 

HindiistAni. 

MabIthi. 

GUJARATI. 

Plate 

B&san 

(silver  or  gold) 

(silver)  Ruperl  sA- 

BupjAchen  bA- 

man,  (a  plate)  Ki- 

mAn,  (a  plate) 

kabi,  Thai! 

/ 

BAsan 

RoaHt 

Bhi^na 

BhAian 

KabAb 

Bice 

Chdwal,(boiled)  TAndiil,  BhAt 

BhAt,  ChokhA 

Bhat,  Dhdn 

Bait 

Nimak 

Mith,  Lon,  Lavan  Mithun,  Ldn 

Sauce 

Chatni 

Olavan 

Chatni 

Spoon 

Chamchah 

ChamchA 

Chamch6 

Stewed 

Dampukht  kiyA  Mand  agnita  pAk 

Dhime,  dhlme  tApc 

■ 

rAndhelu 

Sagar 

Shakar,  Mi^ 

SAkar,  Chini 

EhAnd 

Supper 

'AshA,  Bit  hiid  RAtrichen  bho- 

SandhyAkAlnuii  bho- 

khdnd 

jan 

jan 

Sweetmeats 

Mlthdi 

MlthAi 

MlthAl,  Halwo 

Tablecloth 

Dastar  KhwAn 

MedzAchi  ChAdar  PAntharan                                        | 

Tray 

ThAH 

Tabak 

ThAli,  Khumcho 

VpaI 

Bachhre    kd 

WAnsarAchl  sa- 

Wachchhno  mAs 

gosht 

gutl 

Vinegar 

SirkAh 

SirkA 

Sharko 

Wheat 

Gehiiii 

Gahtiii 

Gahiiii 

Wme 

SharAb 

DrakshAchi  diird 

DarAkhno  dAru 

House,  Furni- 

GJuir Sdmdn 

GJiar  Oluirdnta- 

Gluir  ane  g1iarn§ 

ture,  <Jr. 

len  sdnuln, 
wagaire 

sdman  ityddL 

Arch 

KamAn 

KamAn,  Mehrab 

KamAn,  Mehnib 

Bag 

Thaill 

Pishwi,  Thalli 

Kothll.  Theli 

Basket 

TokrA,  Pitai-A 

TopM,  PAnti,  Pe- 
thArA,  Karand 

Topli,  Toplo 

Barber 

QajjAm 

HajAm,  NhAwi, 

HajAm,    Walaiid 

Bearer 

i^ammAl 

A'nnArA,  or  VAh- 
iiArA  (of  pAlkl) 
Bhoin,  KahAr 

Bhoi,  AnnAr,  LAwnAr 

Bath 

QammAm 

Hami),m  khAnA, 

NAhawAni  or  snAn- 

NhAnlchidzAgA, 

karwAni  jagA, 

SnAii 

HamAm 

Bed-room 

Eh^Ab  gAh 

NidzAwyAchl 
kholi 

SuwAno  ordo 

Beam 

ShAhtlr 

BahAl,  Tulal 

BhArwatiyo 

Bench 

Chaukl 

BAnk 

BAjat 

Bell 

GhantA 

GhantA 

Ghatit 

Bedstead 

Palang 

KhAt;  Palang 

KhAtlo,  Palang, 
PalaAgdi 

Bedding 

BichhAnA 

BiclihAnA,  Shej 

Goddun,    PathAri, 
BichhAnun 

Box 

Sandiil:,  Pcti 

Peti,  Dabbl 

Peti,  DAbdl 

Board 

Takhtah 

Phali,  TakhtA 

PAtlyun 

Bolt 

HurkA,  Belna 

Khii,  Adkan 

Atkan,  Adgro 

Brick 

Tnt 

rt,  Wit ' 

Tilt   ' 

Bucket 

Doi 

Dol,  Pohrd,  BAldl  Dol,  BAldi 

Building 

'imarat 

ImAi-at,  Baiidist 

ImArat 

Candle 

Mom  batti 

Men  batti 

Men  or  Min  batl 

Sect.  1. 

VOCABULARY. 

ey 

English. 

Hindustani. 

MAnATHi. 

GujabAtI. 

Carriage 

Gdri 

Wddan,  Gddi 

Gddi,  Wdhan 

Carpet 

Shatranjl 

Hatranji,  Gdlitsd 
bichhdyat 

SetraAji,  Galicho 

Casket 

pibbA 

Dabbd 

Ddbdo 

Cellar 

Bhaunra 

talghar,  Bhuydr 

Bhoiiyrun 

Chink 

Chhed,  Chir 

Phkt,  Chir 

Fdt,  Chir,  Chlro 

Chamber 

Kothri 

Ehoii,  Kothadi 

Ordl,  Kothadi 

Chimney 

Diidddn 

Dhurddeii 

Dhumddiyun 

Chair 

Kursl 

Ehursl 

Kursl 

Chest 

Petl 

Petl,  Hadpd 

Petl 

Cistern 

Hauz 

Tdkl,  Ku'nd 

Tdnkt,  KuAd.  Ho] 

Cook 

Bdwarchi 

(ABrdhmancook)  Kasoiyo 

A'tsdrljSwayaih- 

pdki,  Babarchi 

Corner 

Kond 

Kon,  Eoprd 

Kon 

Connting-house 

Daftar-khdnah 

Pedhi  (of  Indian 

bankers) 
Phanl,    Vin- 

Pedhl,  Dukdn 

Comb 

Kanghi 

Kduskl 

charnl 

Cover 

Ghildf,  DhiiknA  Dzhdnkan 

Dhauknuii,  Padbidaii 

Coverlet 

Palang  posh, 

Palan?  posh,  Pd- 

Chddar 

Razdl 

sodd,  Chddar 

Cup 

PiyAl'ah 

Pydld,  Katord 

Pydlun 

Cupola 

Gumbaz 

Ghumat 

Ghunmat 

Cradle 

PAlnA 

Pdlnd,  Tdrleft 

Pdlnun,  '  GhodlAii, 
jhodi 

Curtains 

Parde  (musqui- 
to)     machch- 

Padda 

• 

Paddo 

• 

harddni 

« 

Discharge 

Ilizd,  Rukhsat 

Nirop,  Bajd 

Rajd  (dismissal),  (of 

Baitarafi 

(dismissal) 

a  gun)  Bdr 

Door 

Darwdzah 

Darwddzd 

Bdr,  Kamdd 

Drain 

Mori 

Nal,  Ndld,  (of  a 
house)  Mori 

Mori,  Nal 

Expenses 

Kharch, 
Akhrajdt 

Kharts 

Kharach 

Floor 

Zamin 

Dzamin,  Bhui 

Jamin,  Bhoy 

Footman 

Paidal,  Piyddah 

,  Pdddtsd  manu- 
shya,  Pyddd 

Pyddo 

Foundation 

Paydh 

Pdyd 

Pdyo 

Furniture 

Sdmdn 

Sdmdn,  Saraii- 
jdm 

Sdman,   Sarr.njdm 

Gardener 

Bdghbdn,  Mdli 

Mdli 

Mdli 

Groom 

Ghorewdld,  Sdis  Ghodewdld,    Mo- 

Ghodawdlo,  Charwd- 

tadddr 

ddr 

Hall 

Diwdn  khdnah 

Diwdn  khdnd 

Ewdn 

Handle 

Dastah 

Dastd,    Miith, 
Ddndd 

Hdtho,  Dasto 

Hire 

Kirdyah 

Hel,  Bhdden 

Bhdduii,  Majuri 

Hole 

Siirdkh,  Chhed 

Bhonkil,  Bil, 
Kholgd 

Bil,  Chhidr 

Jar 

Ghard,  Khum 

Baranl,  Ghadi, 
Madken 

Ghado 

• 

Kettle 

Batiid 

peg,  Haudl 

peg,  Taplluii 

70 

INTRODUCTIOK. 

sect.  i. 

Enolisu. 

HiNDlJSTANi. 

MarAthL 

1 

GUJARATt 

Key 

ChAbl 

TsAwi,  KilU 

Kunchl 

Kitchen 

Bdwarchi 

Swayampdk  ghar, 
Babarcnikhdn4, 

RasoduA,  Babarchi 

Ehdnah 

khdnun 

Mutbakh  khdn4 

Labourer 

Mazdiir 

Madztir 

Majiir 

Lamp 

ChirAch,  Dip 

Diwd 

Diwo,  Dlpak 
Pustak  khdnun 

Library 

Eitdb  kh4nah 

Pustak&laya,  Pus- 

tak  kh^d 

Tiime 

Chiind 

TsunA 

Chuno 

Lock 

Kufl 

Tdld,  Kuliip 

Tdlun 

Looking-glass 

'Afnah 

A'rsi,  Darpan 

Darpan,  Arsl, 
Chdtlun 

Mat 

Chatil 

BoryA,  Anthrl 

Hashlr,  Chatdl 

Oven 

Tanir 

Bhattl 

Bhaththl,  Tandiir 

PAlki 

Pdlki 

PAlkl,  MydnA 

Pdlkhl 

Pillar 

Sutiin,  Thamb 

Ehdmb,  Stambh 

Thdmbhlo,  Sthambh 

Pillow 

Takiyah 

Ushl,    Takyd, 
Girdl 

Takyo,  Oslsun 

Porch 

Dewj-hl 

Dewyhl 

Dewdl,  Osarl 

Porter 

Mazdi!ir,  (at  the 
door   of    a 
house)  DarbAn 

Helkarl 

Helkarl 

Plaster 

Lep  (med.) 

EaphlM,  gildwd. 

Lep 

malham  and 

Lep  (med.) 

Marham 

Pot 

Deg 

Bhdnden 

Tapili,  Handl 
Chndpruu 

Hoof 

Chhappar 

Chhappar 

Scissors 

Kainchl 

Kdtar,  Kainchl 

Kdtar 

Servant 

Naukar 

TsAkaa-,  Dds, 
Sewak 

Chdkar 

Sheet 

ChMar 

ChAdar,  (of  paper) 

Chddar,Pichhodl,(of 

TAu 

paper)  Tdw 

Slave 

Ghuldm 

GuUm,  Dds 

Guldm,  Chelo 

Snuffers 

Gul-tardsh 

Diwydchl  kdtar 

Gul  Kdtar 

Soot 

KAjal 

Mas 

Kdjal,  Mes 

Stair 

Darjah,  Slyhi 

Jina,  Shidl,Dddar  Dddar,  Nlsami 

Step 

Payah 

Pdyrl 

Pagthiyuii 

Storey 

Manzil 

Majld 

Mdl,  Medo,  Majlo 

Sweeper 

Jh4ri!i  kash  (low 
caste  servant), 
Mihtar,Bhangi, 

HaUlkhor 

Dzhddndrd 

Jhddu  korndr 

Table 

Mej 

Mej 

Mej 

Tailor 

Darjl,  KhiyAt; 

Shiiiipi 

Darjl 

Terrace 

Agist,     Chabil- 

Gachchl,  Chau- 

Agdsf 

tarah 

thard 

Tile 

Nariya 

Kaiil,  Khdpar 

Nallyuii 

Top 

(Summit)     Sar 

,  Shendd,  Shikhd, 

ToAch,  Shikhar 

Sikhar,  (play- 

(plaything) 

0 

thing)  Latti 

Bhaurd 

Tongs 

Chimt4 

Gdwo 

Chipiyo,  Chimto 

Torch 

MasVal 

Mashdl,  Diwatl 

Masdl 

Torch-bearer 

Mash'alchi 

DiwatydjMashdl' 

•  Masdlchi 

chl 


Sect.  I. 


VOCABULARY* 


71 


Enqlish. 

Wages 

WaU 

Washerman 

Water-carrier 


Window 
Wood 

Bit 

Bridle 

Curry-comb 

Girth 

Martingale 

Saddle 

Spur 

Spectacles 

Stable 

Stirrup 


HlNDdSTiNf.  MABATHI. 

HawAjib,  Pagdr  Bozmnn&,  PagAr, 

MushAharA 
DlwAr  BhiAt,  DiwAr 

Dhobl  Dhobi,  Parl^ 

Bihishti  PAnakyA 


Ehirkf 
Lalqrfi    (firC'A 

wood)  Hezam 
LagAm 
BAg 

Eharahrah 
Tang 
Zerband 
Zin 
Mahmez 

Chashmah 

Tawllah 

RikAb 


Khidkl,  Jharoko 
LAAkilid,  Lakdl 

Lagdm 

LagAm 

Ehardrd 

TaAg 

Jerband 

Jin.  Khoglr 

PAyAAche  kAnte 

'Ar, 
Chashmi,  Arasi, 

Upanetr 
TabelA,   Ghod- 

shAlA,  PAgA 
Rikebl 


GUJABATI. 
PagAr 

BhlAt,  DiwAl 

Dhobhi 

Bhisti,    P4n{    bhar- 

nAr,    or    LAwnAr, 

PakhAli 
BAri,  Jharoko 
LAkduft,  Sarpan 

LagAm 

LagAm 

Kharero 

Tang 

Jer  band 

Jia,  PAlAn 

KAuto 

Chasmo,  Upanetra 

Tabelo,  GhodshAl  or 

PAgA 
PAwdun,  RikAb,  trr 

RikAb 


A  Garden, 

Fruit 

Husk 

Kernel 

Stone  or  seed 

Almond 

Apple 

Apricot 

Cherry 

Betel  nut 

Cocoa  nut 

Citron 

Custard-apple 

Date 

Fig 

Grapes 

Guava 

Lemon 

Lime 

Mango 

Mangosteen 
(fruit  of  the 
GiMTcinia 
purpurea) 

Melon 


Bdgh, 

Mewali 

ChhUkA 

Mafhz,  Giidd 

Blj,  Tukhm 

BAiiAm 

Seb 

ZardAlA 

ShAhAlA 

SApiyArl 

NAryal 

Chakotard, 

Turanj 
SitA  phal 
KhajAr 
Anjlr 
AngAr 
JAm 
LlmA 
LimA 
A'm 
Kokam 


Eharbiisah 


Bdffj  BagUid.  Wddiy  Bdg, 

Phal  Mewo,  Fal 

SAl '  ChhAl 

Mokh  Gar 

BAAthA,Bi,Anthil  Gotlo,  GotH,  Blj 

BadAm  BadAm 

Seb  Seb 

DzhardAlii  JardAlu 


SupArl,  Phopha} 
NAral 

_  * 

Toraujan,  MAhA- 

Jung 
SitA  phal 
KhajAr 
Anjlr 
DrAk^h 
PerA 
NimbA 
NlmbA 
AmbA 
Kokamb 


SopArl,  Fofal 
NAi-ival,  Shri  fal 
TuraAj 

SitAfal 

KhAreky  Ehajur 

Anjlr 

DrAksh,  DarAkh 

Jamrukh 

Limbu 

KAgadi  limbu 

Keri,  A'mbo 

Kokamb 


KharbAj,  (water  Tai'buch,  Tarbuchiin, 
melon)  TarbAj,  Khadbuj,  Kaling- 
KAllAgad  dAn  ' 


72 

INTRODUCTION. 

Sect.  I. 

English. 

Hindustani. 

MabAthi. 

GujarAti. 

Mulberry 

Rh^httit 

Tuten 

Shetut 

OUve 

Zaiti!in 

Aliv 

Jalpdf,  Jctun 

Orange 

NArangl 

Ndrangi 

Ndrangi 

Peach 

8haft,iilii 

SbaphtdM 

Sheftdlu 

Pear 

Ndshpati 

Ndshp&ti 

Per 

Pine-apple 
Plantain 

Anann^ 

Anands 

Anendsh 

KeU 

Keleii 

Keld,  Keluu 

Plum 

A'lii  bukharA 

Aid  bukhar 

Alu,  Amrd 

Pomegranate 

An&r 

Dd^imb,  andr 

Dddam,  or,  Ddlam 

Quince 

.^afarjal,  Bihi 

bhriphal 

Safarjal,  (seed) 
Beddnd 

Baisins 

Kishmish 

Manukd,  Kismis 

Kdlidrdkh 

Sugar-cane 

Gandd,  Paun^^ 

,  U'ns,  Ikshu 

Shemdi 

Tamarind 

Tamar  i  Hindi, 
rmlf 

ChiAch 

A'mli' 

Walnut 

Akrot:,orAkhro1 

;  Akhrot,  Akhrod 

Akhrot)  or  Akhod 

Tree9   and 

Jliar  aur  PMh 

DzM4en     dm 

Jhddo,  WriJt-aho, 

Flowers. 

phalen. 

nc  Pliulen, 

Anemone 

Sha^4i^'n 
num^n 

Guleldla 

Gul  Idld 

Bambii 

Bdns 

Bdmbii 

Wdiis 

Blackwood 

Shisham 

^\sa,\{Dalhergia 
Sum) 

.  Shisam 

Coffee 

Kahwah,  (the 

Bund  (the  berry) 

BuAd 

berry)  Bun 

Kawd  (the  in- 
fusion) 

Cypress 

Sarv 

Sanl 

Sarowar 

Figtree 

Darakht  i  anjlr 

Anjir,       Anjfrd-  Aiijiruiijhdd 

chen  dzhdr 

Mallows 

Gul  khaini 

ShakaxtelijDllpa- 

Gole-Kheru,    Dil- 

sant 

pasand 

Myrtle 

WilAyati 

MatU 

MatU,    Khoshboddr, 

Mihdi,Menhdf 

Mendm 

Pine 

Sanaubar 

Raral 

Shanobar 

Tamarisk 

JhAii,  TAgh, 
Babin 

Kesari 

ChlnnI 

Teak 

SiSg 

Sdg 

Sdg,  Sdgwdn 

Vine 

AngtirkA 
darakht,  TAk 

Drdkshachl  wel 

Drdkh 

Anise 

Sau&f 

Shepu   or   Badl- 

shep 
Kobl 

Suwd 

Cabbage 

Kobi 

Kobi 

Capsicum 

MughUi  mirch 

Mirchi,        Mogli  Marchu& 

mirchl 

Caraway 

Ajmiid 

Ajmodd 

Ajmod,  Warydli 

Cardamom 

IlAchi 

Eldodd,      Elchl- 
chen  jhdr 

Elchi 

Carrot 

G&jar 

Gddzar 

Gdjar 

Chamomile 

B&bi^nah 

Bdbund 

Bdbi!ineh 

Coriander 

DhaniyA 

Dhand 

Kothmi 

Cresses 

HAlim 

Hdli'nw,  A'hllnw 

Hdlem 

Jasmine 

CharobeU 

Jdl,  Mogri 

Champell.  Jal 

K^ect.  1. 

VOCABULARY. 

73 

English. 

HimJUSTANi. 

Mabathi. 

GUJARATf. 

lily  (water) 

Kama],  Sosan 

Bhui  kamal,  Nag- 
champak 

•  Kamkl 

Nosegay 

Guldastah 

Tura,    Phiildi'itsA  Fulno  dado,  or  toro, 

guchoJih 

or  goto 

Poppy 

Khash  khash 

Aphlncheii  dzhar  Ehaskasnun, /»?% 

Post 

Aflnnuii  jbdd 

Bosc 

GuUb 

Guldb 

Goldb,  or,  Guldb 

Tomato 

WilAyati  bain- 
gan 

■  Wildyatl  wdiigl 

Tnlip-tree 

Ldlah 

Ldld 

Ldld,  Gulldld 

Violet 

Banafshah 

Banaphshd 

Banafsd 

Wreath 

Sihrd 

Mdld,    Gajrd, 
Weni 

Fiilni  mdld,  or  Hdr 

Bark 

Chhdl 

Sdl 

Chhdl 

Berry 

DAnah 

Ldhan  phal 

Ddno 

BloBsom 

Kalf 

Mohr,  Pushp 

Phiilnl  kail 

Branch 

D&li,  Sh^kh 

Khdndi 

Pdll,  Ddiikhri 

FlOflB 

Reshah 

(ThrPAcl)    Tantu, 
Siitr,  (of  wood 
Hirkd,  Shird 

Re^ho 

Flower 

Phiil 

Phiil 

Fiil,  Pushp 

Gnm 

Gond 

Gond,  Dlk 

Gundar 

Tieaf 

Patta 

Pdu 

Pdn 

Plant 

BiitA 

Ropd,  Aushadhi 

Ropo,  Chhodwo 

Root 

Jar,  (origin)  ArI 

Miil 

Miil,  Jad 

Trunk 

Tanah 

Khod.  Kdnd 

Jhddnun  thad 

Cucnmber 

Khlrd,  Kakri 

Kdkdi 

Kdk'adi 

Fennel 

Sod 

Wadishop 

Warydll 

Fenugreek 

Methi 

Methl 

Methl  ' 

FlaL 

San 

Dzawas,  Atsi 

San 

Garlic 

Lasan 

LflAiin 

Lasan 

Gourd 

Kadu 

Bhompld,  Ddiigar 

Kadu,  Dodhl 

Hemp 

San 

Tdg,  San 

San 

• 

Indigo 

Nil 

Nil  (the  colour) 
Kdllgull 

Gull 

Ivy 

'Ishk  pechd 

Latd,  Wei 

Ashak  pecho 

Leek 

Kdndd 

Kdndd 

Kdndo 

Lentil 

Masiir 

Masi!ir 

Masiir,  Masiiml  ddl 

Lettuce 

Edhti 

Kdhu 

{                Linseed 

Alsi 

Alshl 

Alsi 

Mint 

Podlnah 

Pudind 

Fudno 

Nettle 

Gaznah 

Khdj  Koltl 

Kdkchd 

Nightshade 

MakOy  Inabu  \s 
salab 

Ringnl 

Riiignu 

Onion 

Piydz 

Kdiidd 

Ediido 

Parsley 

Ajmiid 

Ajmodd 

Ajmud 

Peas 

Matar,  Miing, 
Mdsh 

Wdtdnd 

Mag,  Tuwar 

Rue 

Ispand,  Suddb 

Satdp 

Sihetdb 

Saffron 

Z'afardu 

Keshar 

Kesar 

Sorrel 

Ohiikd.Turshah, 
Chukr 

Tsukd 

Chuko,  Khatum 

Spinach 

Pulak 

Pdlak 

Pdlakh,     Choldni 
bhdjl 

74 


INTRODUCTION. 


k)cCX«  x* 


English. 

Squill 

Turnip 

Jet-d'eau 

Aqueduct 


HlNDI^TgTANI.  MABAtHI. 

Iskll  Kdndd 

Shalgham  Bhalgam 

Fauwdrah,  KdraAjeii 

Chashmali 

Nal  Nal,  pdt 


GUJAltlTf. 

Kdndo 

Salgam 

Cliasmo 

Pdunino  nal 


Aradle  Land, 

Barley 

Bam 

Bran 

Cart 

Chaff 

Com 

Fami 

Farmer 

Field 
Grass 
Harrow 
Harvest 

Hay 

Hedge 

Husbandry 

Labourer 
Landlord 

Meadow 

Plough 
Reaper 
Reaping-hook 

Sower 
Spade 
Straw 

Stack 

Tenant 


Wheat 
Wild 


Kdhil  i  zird'at 

Zamin. 
Jau 
Kothd 
Chokar 
Chhakrd,  Gdrl 
Bhiisd 
Andj 
Chak 


Jlrdlti  dzamin         Khedwdjog  bhoi. 


Jav 
Kothdr 
Koiidd 
Gddd 
Bhiis 
Dhdnya 

Dhdnydne  ghet- 
leli  dzamin 
Kisdn,  Khetddr  Dhdrekarl 


Yoke 


Khet 
Ghdns 
Hengd 
Fasal,  Dirau 

Siikd  ghdns 

Bdr 

Kheti 

Mazdilr 
Zamin      ka 

Malik 
Murghzdr 

Hal 

Dirogar 

Ddsd 

Bonewdld 
Bel,  Kndali 
Pardl,  Karbi 

Tal,Todah,Ganj 

Pattdddr 


Gohviii 

(adj.)  Jangall, 
(subs.)  Jan- 
gal,  Baydbdn 

J  lid 


Shet 

Gawat,  Tsar 
Kulav,  Ddntalefi 
Hangdm,      Kdp- 

niche  divas 
Wdjalelengawat 
Kupan 
Shet  kdm,  Kpshi 

karm 
Madziir,  Bigdrl 
Phajinddr,     Dza- 

minddr, 
Kuran 

• 

Ndiigar 

Edpandrd 

lid 

• 

Pernard 
Dali,  Khoreii 
Kdd,  Pendhd 


Jav 

Kothdr,  Bhauddr 

Thulun 

Gdduu 

Bhusuii,  Bhuso 

Andj 

Ijdre  lidheli  jamln, 

Ijdro 
Ijdraddr,  Zaminddr, 

Khedut 
Khetar 
Ghds,  Ehad 
Ddnto 
Mosam,      Kdpnino 

Wakhat,  Bhamuii 
Sdkun  ghds 
Wdd 
Khetiwddi 

Majdr 
Jaminddr 

Meddn,      Ghdsno 

ugawdni  bid 
Ndngar 

Khetar  karndrd 
Dardnti    or   Kdtar- 

wdnun  hathiydr 
Wdwnaxo,  Bopndro 
Pdwado 
Pardl,    Pendo    (rice 

straw)  ;  Kadab 
Bhag,  Kudhwo 


Gani,    Udwl, 

Kumbherl 
(Of   a  building)  Ganotiyo,  Khedut 

Bhddekari, 

Dhdrekarl, 

Sdrekari,  Kiil 
Gahiin 
(adj.)  Rdndtsd, 

(subs.)  Jangal, 

Osdd  dzdgd 
Dzukad,(ofoxen)  (Of  oxen)  Jhusri 

Jodi' 


Godhdm 

Jangal,    Padtd     ja- 
mln,  Werdn 


Sect.  I. 


VOCABULARY. 


75 


English.        Hindustani.         MarathI. 


Of    Banking 
andAcoounts. 

Account 

Acquittance 

Address 

Advance 

Advertisement 

Agent 

Agreement 

Answer 

Apprentice 

Asset 

Auction 

Balance 

Banker 

Bankrupt 

BiU 

Bond 

Broker 

Business 

Buyer 

Capital 

Charges 

Commerce 

Constituent 

Contract 

Credit 

Creditor 

Custom-house 

Date 

Day-book 

Debit 

Debt 

Debtor 

Delay 

Demand 

Evasion 

Excuse 

Export 


Factor 
Famine 


Sahuk&H  avr 
jama  Itlmrch. 

yisAb 

Farigh  KJiatti 
Pata 

Ta^dwi 

25ahir  Vhabar, 

IshtihAr 
Gumdshtah, 

Vakil 
Kabiiliyat, 
*  Kar4r 

• 

Jawab 
Sh4gird 
MaujMdt,  Mdl 

milkat 
Harrdj 
Bdkl 

Sdhiikdr,  Sarnif 
Dewdliya 
Hundi,  Chithi 
DastAwez 
DaUdl 

Kdm,  DhandhA 
KharldAr 
Piinjl 
Kharch 
Saudd,  Baipjir 
Munib 

IjArah,  Thlka 
Jam'a 

Karz  khwAh 
SAir* 
Tdrlkh 
Bozndmchah, 

Daftar 
Udhdr 
Karz 

•  • 

KarzdAr 

Muhlat 
Khwdhish 

Bahdnah 

Nikdsl 


Gumdshtah 
Dukdl,  Kaht 


SdrvaJtdrl     wa 
thavid  klvartz 
yd  jyTaJtarni, 

Khdten 

Phdrakhtl 

Pattd 

Agdii  paikd, 

Tagdl 
Dzdhirdt 

Adtyd 


GuJABATf. 

SdhuMrl  anejame 
Mu7'chn6  hiidb, 

Hisdb,  Khdtai\ 

Fdragati 

Eagalnun 

shamdmuii,  Patto 
Aug  udhdr 

Jdher  khabar 

Adtiyo 


Kardr,  Kardr-  Kabiildt,  Kardr 

ndmd 

Dzawdb,  Uttar  Jawdb,  Jabdp 

Shdgird,  Shishya  Shdgird 

Punjl  Awej 


Lilaiiw,  Nildm 
Bdkl 
Sdwakdr 
Diwdliya 
Hundi,  Chiththi 
Khat 
Daldl 

Kdm,  Udyog 
Wikat  ghendra 
Bhdndwal,' Punjl 
Kharts 
Vydpdr 
Adatyd 
Maktd 
Pat,  Dzamd 
Rinkarl 
Mdndwi 
Tdrlkh 
Bodzkhardd, 
Rodzndmd 
Udhdr 
Rin 
Rinl 
Ushlr 
Mdgnen 
Tdlno 

•  •  

Nimltya,  Bdhdnd, 

Sabab 
Mdl  dilsre  baii- 

darl  rawdnd 

karne 
Gumdstd,    Kdrb- 

hdrl 
Dukdl 


Lildm,  Hard] 

Bdkl 

Sardf 

Dlwdliyo 

Hundi,  Aukdo 

Khat,  Khdtun,  Lekh 

Daldl,  Gumdsto 

Wepdr 

Kharld  ddr 

Bhaudol,  PuAji 

Kharach 

Wepdr 

Adtlo 

Ijdro 

Jamd,  Jame 

Mdiigndr 

Furjd,  Mdndawl 

Tarlkh,  Mitl 

Rojmel,    RojndmuA, 

Nodh 
(to)  Udhdrwun 
Karaj 

Karajddr,  Denddr 
Dhll,  Wilamb;  Wdr 
Tagddo 
Andkdnl 
Bahdiiun,  Nimitt 

Rawdnagl,  Mdl  blje 
baudare    rawdne 
karwo 

Adatyo,    Kdrbhdrl, 
Gomdshto 

Dukdl,  Kdl 


7() 

INTRODUCTION. 

beet.  1. 

English. 

FTlNDUSTANI. 

MaeAthi. 

GUJARATI. 

Goods 

MAI,  Jing 

Mdl,  Jinnas 

Mdl,  Sdman 

Grain 

An^i,  Ghallah 

Dhdnya 

Dhdnya 

Handicraft 

IJirfat 

Hdtkdm,  Kald 

Hdthekdm,  Karwdno 
dhaAdho,  Pesho 

Import 

Bdhir  mal 

Bandar!  jinnas 

Bandarmdii    mdl 
Idwawo 

Interest 

(Of  money) 

Bydj, 

(  Of'money)By&i  vidj : 

Biydj,    (influ- 

(influence) Wag, 

ence)  Wasllah 

Wasilo 

Lease 

Patta 

Pattd 

Pato 

Leisure 

Fursat 

Wei,  Phursat, 
Awkdsh 

Fui'sat,  Chhutl 

Letter 

Khat,  Cliithl 

Patr,  ChithtM 
kdgad 

Kdgal,  Patar 

Loan 

Udhar 

Usanen 

Uchhlnun 

Loss 

Nuk^dn 

Totd,  Nuksdn 

Toto,  Nuksdn 

Manufacture 

Edrkhdnah 

Kdrkhdnd 

Kdrkhdnuu 

Market 

Bdzdr 

Bddzdr 

Bajdr,  Ghaut 

Memorandum 

YM  ddsht 

Yddl 

Iddl 

Merchant 

Sauddgar, 
Baip4ri 
SaudA,  Mdl 

Vydpdrl,  Udaml 

Wepdrl 

Merchandize 

Mal 

Mdl 

Message 

PaighAm 

Nirop 

Nirop 

Money- 

Paisa 

Paikd 

Ndnu,  Paisd 

Mortgage 

Giro 

Gahdn 

Gharene,  Girwi.  Giro 

Note 

Chithl,  Pati 

Chitti,  Patr 

Chitthi,  Patr 

Overplus 

Fuzlah 

Jydstl,  Phdjil 

BdkY,  Fdjal 

Packet 

Lifdfah,  Gathri 

Lakhotd,  Tablak 

Lakhoto 

Partner 

Sharlk 

Bhdglddr,  Sara- 
katl,  Hissedar 

Bhdgiyo 

Passport 

ParwAnah 

Parwdnd,  Dastak 

Parvvdno 

Payment 

DinAr  bhamd, 

Dene,  Bhame, 

Bhdrnun,  A'pnuii 

Add  kama 

Jhddbdki  * 

Pedler 

Bisdtl 

Pheriwdld 

Feriyo 

Penalty 

DAnd 

• 

Gunhegdrl,  Dand 

.  Gunhegdrl,  Dand 

Plenty 

ZiyAdagl,  Tfrdf. 

Pughkalpand 

Pushkal,  Ghanuii 

Pledge 

Giro 

Gahdn,  Tdian 

Giro 

Post 

Ddk,  Tappal 

Tappdl,  Ddk 

Ddk,  Tapdl 

Poverty 

Gharlbi,  Iflas 

Garibl,    Darldra- 
pand,  Eaiigdli 

(iaribdi,  Daridr 

Price 

Kimat 

Kimmat,  Mol 

Kimmat 

Principal 

Miil,  Asl 

Muddal,         Miil  Multatw,    Nivam 

(principle,  mo- 

(principle), Kdran , 

tive),  Hetii 

Hetii 

Profit 

Naf 'a,  Fdidah 

Naphd 

Nafo,   Ldbh,  Facdo, 
Hdsil 

Property 

Milkat 

Mdlmilkat 

Mdl,  Milkat 

Bate 

Bhao 

Dar,  Bhdw 

Bhdw,  Nirakh" 

Beceipt 

Basid,  Pahunch  Pdwatl,  Pohonch, 

PonhoAch,       Kabaj, 

Ba^d 

Basit 

Bent 

Kirdyah 

Bhddefi 

• 

Bhdduu 

• 

Sample 

Namtinah 

Namund,  Mdsld 

Namuno,  Maslo 

Scarcity 

Kami,  Killat, 

Kamtlpand 

Taiigl,  Achhat 

Kahti 


Sect,  I. 


VOCABULARY. 


77 


English. 
SeUer 
Shop 
Signature 

Sum-total 
Trade 

Trustee 

Usage 

Wages 

Warehouse 

Wealth 

Wharf 


Hindustani. 
BAi' 
Diikan 
Dast     khaU, 

Kull  jam'a 
Baip4r,  Saudd 

Ziminahddr 

Sarrishtah, 
Kdidah 
Pagdr 

Kothi 

Daulat 

Ghdt 


Of  Sliipping,     Jalidz  hi  hdhat. 


Anchor 
Boat 

Cable 
Cargo 

Commander  of 

boat 
Compass 
Ferry-boat 
Flag 
Mast 
Mate 
Oar 

PaGsenger 
Prow 

Kope 

Budder 

Sail 

Sailor 

Stem 

Twine 
Voyage 

Yard 

Of  Law  and  Ju- 
dicial Matters. 

Abuse 


Langar 
Ndo 

Zanjir  langar  kl 
Bhartl,    BAr    i 

jahdz 
Ndkhudd 

Ku|;b  numd 

Guxdre  ki  ndo 

BAotd 

Dol 

Mu'allim 

Bind,  Chappii 

'Abii^ 

Mdng 

Bassi,  Dor 
Sukkdii 
P41,  Bddbdn, 

S^rh 
Khala9l,MalU^, 

D&ndi 
Dabiisd 

Stitli 
Jahdzi  safar 

Kdthi 

• 

Shir' a  avr 
faujddH. 

Gall  (to  abuse) 
bar&bar,'Amal 
na  kamd 


MASAfHi. 

WiknArA 

Dukdn 

Sahi,  or,  Sal,  Has- 

tdk^har 
Ekandar  beri  j 
VydpAr,  Udim 

Jimmeddr 

Tsdl,  Wahlwdt 

llojmurd,      Dar- 

mdhd,  Pagdr 
Wakhdr 
Daulat 
Dhakkd,  Ghdt 

Galhatcn  Sam* 
handk, 

Ndngar 
Machwd,  Ndw, 

Taraii 
Langar  dor 
Bhargat 

Tdudel 

« 

Hokd 

Tar 

Bdwtd,  Nishdn 

Dol 

Mdllm 

Waleii 

Utdni 

Ndl 

• 

Dor 

Sukdn 

Shld* 

Ehaldshi,  Ndwd- 

di 
(Stem)  Wardm 

SutH 

Jal    prawds,    Sa- 

})har 
Parwdn,  Kdthl 

Kdyadd  it  a  nydya 
jyraltarnl, 

Shiwl,  Gali  (bad 
use),  Gair  up- 

yog 


GUJABATI. 
Wechndro 
Dukan 
Sahi,  Matuu 

Kul,  Ekaudar  berij 
Wepdr,    Udyog, 

Dhaiidho 
Jimmeddr,  Jimmo 

lendr 
Wahiwat,      Dhdro. 

Bit 
Pagdr 

Wakhdr 
Dolat 
Danko,  Ghdt 

Walidtf,hdhat, 

Ndngar 
Machwo,  Hodi 

Langainu  dordun 
Wdhan    upar   chaf* 

hawelo  mdl 
Tandel 

Wdhd^no  huko 
Hodi 

• 

Wdwa^ 
Dol 

• 

Mdlam 

Halsun 

Utdru 

Ndl,  Wahdnnuii 

mdthuu 
Dordun 
Sukdn 
Sahado 

Khdrwo,  Khaldsi 

Wdhdnnun  pachh- 

wddun 
Dorl  ' 
Darivdnl  shafar 

Paiwdn,  Kdthi 

Kdyadd  tathd  addlat 
jrrakarni. 

Gal :  (to  misuse)  Ger 
rite  niimal  karwuii 


78 


INTRODUCTION. 


Sect.  I. 


English. 

Acquittal 


Adultery 
Amputation 


Arbitration 
Arbitrator 
Attorney 
Award 


Bail 
Bribery 

Civil  Court 

Chain 

Clause 

Clerk 

Confession 

Convict 


Conviction 

Copy 
Crime 

Criminal  Court 
Decree 

Defendant 

Deed 

Denial 

Divorce 

Evidence 

Executioner 

Executor 

Ex-partc 
Fee 

Fine 
Forgeiy 

Gaol 


Hindustani. 
ChhiithnA,    Be- 

gunah      tha- 

hrdn4 

ChhindU,  ZinA 
Kdt  d&lnd 


Panchdyat 
Panch 
Vakil 
Thardw 


Zdmin 
Kis^wat    dend, 

Ldnch  dend 
Diwani  'addlat 
Zanjlr 
Ba^am 
Kdfkun 
I]p:dr 
Gundhgar, 

Kaidi  jig  par 

gundh     sdbit 

hiii 
^abiit  i  gundh 

Nallfl 
Gundh 

Faujddrl  'addlat 
J^ukmnamah, 

Fai^alah 
Muddi  'alaihi 
Dastdwez 
Inkdr 

Xim,  Fdrigh 
khat 

Shahddat, 
Gawdhl 

Jalldd,  Phdnsi 
denewdld 

Wa§iyat  cha- 
Idne  wdla 

Ek  tarf  i 

Dastiiri, 
M'amiil 

Dand 

Jhiitd       dastd- 
wez bandnd 

Kaidklianah 


MABlTHi. 

Sutne,  Muktatd 


Vyabhichdr 
Edpne,  Angchhed 


Paiitsdit 

Pauts,  Lawdd 

Wakll 

Paiitsdsa  niwddd, 
Huki!im  ndmd, 
Pantsdit  ndmd 

Dzdmin 

Ldnts 

Diwdni  addlat 
Bidi 
Kaiam 

Kdrkiin,  Parbhii 
Potukal 

Aparddhi  t^ar- 
waleld 


Gunhydchi  sdbiti 

Nakal,  Prat 
Ganhd)  Aparddh 
Faudzddrl  addlat 
Hukiim       ndmd, 

Niwddd 
Pratiwddl 
Khat,  Patr 
Nakdr,  Ni§hedh 

Wiwdh  sambandh 

mochan 
Sdksh,  (Proof) 
Purwarl,Pramdn 
Aiitak 


GujaratI 
Chhutak  jawun,  (to 

pronounce)    Nira- 

parddhi    ^harawa- 

wuii 
Vyabhichdr,        Bad- 

karm,  Chhindlun 
Angchhed,   Angkdp- 

wun,  Sharlmo  kol 

awayaw  kdpwun 
Pauchdt,  Lawddi 
Panch,  Lawdd 
Wakll 
Pauchdt    ndmun, 

Panchno     t^^erdw 

or  Chukddo 
Jdmin 
Ldnch,      Kushwat 

khori 
Diwdni  addlat 
Bedf 
Hakam 
Kdrkiin 

Mdnwun,  Kabiildt 
Aparddhi     ^hareluii 

mdnas 


Gunhani       sdbitino 

thardw 
Nakal 

Aparddh,  Gunho 
Fojddri  addlat 
Hukmndmun,Fesalo. 

Niwddo 
Pratiwddl 
EJiat,  Dastdwej 
Nakdr,       Inkdr, 

Ni^hedh 
Taldk 

Purwdri,  Pramdn 

Fdnslkhor 


Mfitlekh  tsdla-  Mjityu   patr   chald- 

wandra  wandr 

Ek-tarphi  Ek  tarafl 

Dasturi  Dasturi 

Dand  Dand 

Bandwaleld  Khoto       bandwatno 

kdgad  dastdwej 

Tuning,    Baudis-  Turaug,  Kcdkhdnua 

hdla 


Sect.  !• 

VOCABULARY. 

7d 

EK6LISH. 

HlND^STANf. 

Mauathi. 

GujarAti. 

Gallows 

Phdu8i  ke  lakre  Phdnsl   dciiydts4 

Fanslndn       Idkdan, 

khAmb 

Fdiisi 

Highwayman 

Kazza^:, 

R4hzan 
Phdiisi  dend 

WAtmAryA 

Wdtpddo 

Hanging 

TAngne,  Phdushl  FAusl  dewuii,  Trfitkd- 

dene 

wawun,  Tdngwun 

Judge 

Mun^if,  K&zi 

NydyAdhlsh 

Nydyddhikdrl 

Legacy- 

Hibah,Tarikah 

Mritlekhddu 

Wdrsho 

Legatee 

Tarkah  w41a 

MritlekhdAnAdhi- 

Mritlekhddnddhi- 

kdri 

kdrl,  Wdras 

Murder 

Khiin 

Khi^n 

Khun 

Murderer 

Khrtni 

Khunl,     Khi^n 
karndrA 

Khdni 

Nonsuit 

N&  manziir 

Harne, 

Ndmaiidziir 

Ddwo  rad  thdi  te 

Notice 

Khabar 

Siichan,    Dzdhir- 

Jdher  khabar,  Suchnd 

Oath 

Kasam 

AiUxUal 

Shapath,  An 

Sam,  Sogand 

Pardon 

Mu'Afi 

Mdphi,  Kshamd 

K^hamA^  Mdfi 

Perjury 

Jhiithi  Icasam 

Khoti  shapath 

Khotd  sam 

PlaintifE 

Mudda'l 

WAdi 

Wddi,  Fariyddi 

Prison 

Kaid  khiinah 

Kaid  khdnd, 

Bandhi  khdnun 

Turung 

Prisoner 

Kaidi 

Kaidi 

Kedi 

Proof 

Dalil 

Pramdn,  Purdwd 

Purdwo,  Pramdn 

Punishment 

Saz4 

Shikshd 

Shik^d,Sajd,Na8ihat 

Quarrel 

Ka?iyah 

Jhagdd,      Tantd, 

Kajiyo,  Kankds, 

Bhdiidan 

Kalah 

Beader 

Parhnewala 

Wdtsndrd 

Wanchndfo 

Respite 

Muhlat 

Shik^hechl     tah- 

Mehtal 

kubl 

^ 

Right 

HakH^ 

Hakk 

Hak,  Kharun 

Scourge 

Chdbuk,  Kord 

Tsdbrtk,  Kordd 

Kordo 

Sentence 

ThahrAo 

Shik^etsd     tha- 

rdw 
Mukaddama, 

Shajddewdno  hukam 

Suit 

Mul^addamah, 

Mukadamo,  Khatlo 

D'awA 

Khatld, 

Summons 

alab  khat. 

Awdhan,  Jortalab  Hdkam  nctdnun 

Sammdn 

boldwun.  Tedun 

Testator 

Wa^iyat  karne- 

Myitlekh  karndrd  Mrityu  pati-  karndro 

Theft 

WHilai 

Chorl,  Duzdi 

Tsori 

Chorl 

Thief 

Chor,  Duzd 

Tsor 

Chor 

Tribunal 

'AdAlat 

Addlat,  Nydya 
sabhd 

Addlat,  Nydya  sabhd 

Trial 

Tajwiz,  TapAs 

Insdph,    Tsau- 
kashi 

Tajwlj,  Tapds 

Will 

Wa^iyat  ndmali 

I  Mrityu  patr 

Wasiyat  ndmun 

Witness 

Sh4hid 

Sd£9hi 

Sdhedl,  Sdkahi 

Of  Oovevii- 

Sarkdr  darhdr 

Rajya  jjvakarni. 

MAj  prakarnL 

ments. 

H  bdbat. 

Ally 

Dost 

Dost 

Dost 

Ambas^dor 

Elchl 

Wakil 

Wakil,  Elclii 

80 

INTRODUCTION. 

Sect,  i 

English. 

Hindustani. 

Mabathi. 

GujarAti. 

Authority 

yukm 

Sattd,  Adhikdr 

Battd,  Adhikdr 

Alliance 

Dosti 

Sangan     mat, 
Milan 

Dostl 

Boundary 

Hadd 

SlmA 

Simd 

Canopy 

Chhat 

Chhat 

Chhat 

Capital 

Pae  takht,  Dd- 
ru's    salf.anat 

Bdj  dhdnl 

1 

Bdjdhdnl 

City 

Shahr 

Shahar,  Xagar, 
Piir 

Shehar,  Nagar 

Coin 

Sikkah 

Ndneii 

Sikko.  Ndnu 

Courier 

Kd§id 

Jdsiid 

Jdsud,  Jdsiis 

Crown 

TAj 

Mukut 

« 

Mugat,  Tdj 

Dynasty 

8il8ilah  i  salatln 

VVdnsh 

Waiish 

Deputy 

Ndib 

Wakil,  Karbhdrl, 

,  Wakll,    Kdrbhdri, 

Duyam 

Ndyab 

Duty 

Far?  (excise), 

Dharm,     (excise 

1  (Excise)      Jakdt, 

Zsik&t 

Sdyar 

Dharm 

KcUct 

Farmdn 

Rdjdgyd 

Bdjdgyd,  Bdjdno 
hukm,  Farmdn 

Emperor 

B&dshih, 

Kaisar 

Bddfihdhd,      Bajesh 

Shdhansh4h, 

war 

Chakrawartti 

Empress 

SuUdnah, 

Pddshahdchl  stri 

Bddshdhanl     stri, 

Bddshdh, 

Bdnnl 

Excellency 

NuwdbiMusta- 
tdb,  NiiwAb 

Rdjd  shri,  'A'lijd 

Alijd,  Bdje  shri 

Exchequer 

Khazanah 

Djaradbandlchl 

Jamd  bandlnl 

kacherl 

kacheri 

Foreigner 

Pardesi 

Pardeshl  man- 

Pardeshl,     Parayd 

shya 

rdjnu  mdnas 

Faction 

Toll 

Tat,  Phall,  Pak^h 

Toll 

Gentleman 

Marde       adml, 
SAhib,  'Aghi 

Grihaflth 

Gfihasth 

Granary 

Amb&r,  Kothd. 

Kothdr 

Kothdr,  Ddundimu 
pdlun 

Inhabitant 

Desl 

Rahiwdsl 

Kehwdsl 

Journey 

Musdfiri 

Prawds 

Mushdfari,  Prawds 

King 

Pddshdh 

Kddzd 

Rdjd 

Tiane 

Gall 

All,  Gain 

Gall 

Levee 

Darbdr 

Darbdr 

Darbdr 

Majesty      (ad- 

• Jahdn  pandh 

Shrlmaiit  rdje 

Shrimant,  Rdjeshri 

dress     to     a 

I 

shri 

king) 

Mint 

Taksdl 

Tanksdl 

Tanksal 

Monarch 

Pddshdh 

Rddzd  * 

Pddshahd,  Rdjd 

Native 

Bdshindah 

Mulkl 

Asalno  rehewdsi 

Night-watch 

Rdt  kl  chauki 

Bdtri  idgaran 

Rdtiil  chokl 

News 

Khabar,Akhbsir  Khobar,  Wartta- 

Khabar,  8amdchdr 

mdn 

Nobleman 

Amlr 

Amir,  umi'dw 

Amir,  Umrdw 

Patent 

8anad 

ISanad 

Sanad 

Pomp 

Damdamah 

Daul,  Damdau- 
Idchi  swdri 

Dhiimdhdm,  Dol 

Populace 

Log,  Khalk 

Lok 

Wastl  Lok 

Sect.  T. 


VOCABULARY. 


81 


English. 
Port 
Province 
Queen 
Quarter 

Rebellion 

Register 

Republic 

Retinue 
Riot 

Secretary 
Signet 

Spy 

stage 


State 

Street 
Successor 

Subject 
Throne 
Titles 

Town 
Traitor 


Treaty 

Treasurer 

Tribute 
Tyrant 
Usurper 
Umbrella  of 

state 
Viceroy 


Hindustani. 
Bandar 
Zira 

Malikah,  Rdni 
Hi^sah,  Mahal- 

lah 
Balwd,  Dan^d 
Daftar 
Saltanatlkbalk 

Jilau 

Hullar,  Hangd- 

mah 
Munshi 
Sikkah,  Muhr 
Jdsiis 
Manzil 


Qdlat,  (govern- 
ment) Raj 
Mal^allah 
Jde  nishin 

Ra*aiyat 

Takht 

Khitab 

Kabbah 
Da^^dbdz 


Sul^  ndmah 

Wisd]^ 
Khazdnohi 

Khardj  bdj 
Zalim 
(Jhd^ib 
ChatrSultdni 

Niiwdb 


Marathi. 
Baiidar 
Prdiit 
Rdni 
Mahaldy   Purd, 

Peth 
Band 

Uaphtar,  Bchdd 
Prajdsattdka- 

rdjya 
Pariwdr,  Swdrl 
Gardl,  Daiigd 

Chitnis 

Mudrdi  Mudrikd 

Her 

(day*s    journey) 
Madzal,  Tappd, 
(scaffolding) 
Mdld 

Sthiti" 

Rastd,  Galli 
Jaynishin,    Anu- 

gat  yendra 
Prajd,  Raiyat 
Sinhdsan 
Mardtab,  Kitab 


GUJABATJ. 
BaAdar 
Prdnt 
Rdnni 
Mohio,  ThekdnnuA 

DaAgo 

Nodh 

Prajd  sattdrajya 

Khatlo,  Pariwdr 
HulUd 

Munshi 
Mudrd,  Mohar 
Guptdut,  JdsiU 
Majal 


Safisthdn,  (power) 

Rdj,  Awasthd,  Sthiti 
Rasto,  Gali 
Jdya  nashin 


Raiyat,  Prajd 
Gddf,  Sinhdsan 
Khetdb,  Alkdb,  Ma- 
rdtab 
Kasbo 

Fitiiri,  Fitiir  kamdr, 
Wishwdsghdtki, 
Rdjdrohi 

Tahndmd,  Niyam  Tah,  Kolkardr,  Tab* 

ndmuA 
Khajdnchi 


Kasbd,  Shahar 
Wishwds  ghdtaki, 
Rdjdrohi 


Ehajinaddr, 
BhdA^dri 
Khaft4Anl 
Pzulmi 
Rdjyapahdri 
Ghhatr 


Choth 
Julamgdr 
Chhlnwl  lendr 
Chhatr 


Rddza  pratinidhi  Rdj  pratinidhi 


ProffSithnft  arid       DJmfidJiey 

Xajfb, 


Trades, 
Armourer 

Artificer 

Artist 

Baker 

Beggar 
Blacksmith 


Hathiydr 

bandnewdld 
Edrigar 
Musauwir 
Roti  bandnc* 

wdld 
Fa^ir 
Lohdr 


[Bom6a7/— 1880.] 


DJiande  wa  kamh,     Dha lide  ne  haaa  h. 


Shastra  kdr 


Hathiydr  bandwandr 


Edrigar,  Kasbi,     Kdrigar 
Shilpi,  Edrigar      Easabi 
Bhdjndrd,     Roti-  Rofi  bandwandr 

virdld 
Bhikdrf,  Ydtsak     Bhikhdrl,  Bhikshu 
liOhdr  Lohdr,  Lohd^o 

G 


82 


INTRODUCTION. 


Sect.  I. 


Ingush. 

Bookseller 
BTasie; 


Bricklayer 

Butober 

Carpenter 

Confectioner 

Cook 
Pancing-girl 

Druggist 
Pyer 
Farrier 
Greengrocer 

Grocer 

Goldsmith 

Horse-breaker 

Hunter 

Jeweller 

Juggler 

Linen-draper 

Musician 

Fainter 

physician 

ploughman 

Porter 


Bopomaker 

Saddler 
Sculptor 


Shepherd 

Shopkeeper 

Sa^n^er 

Shoemaker 
Singer 

Surgeon 

Tailor 

Turner 


HiNDIJSTANi. 

Eitdb  f arosh 

Thather^    Ka- 


B4j,  Mistari 
j^asdi,  Kas^b 
Sutdr,  Najjar, 

Barhal 
0alw4i 

Bdwarchi 
Kanchini,  R4m- 

janl 
PansAri,  'At.tAr 
RangArA 
N'alband 
Tark^lwdld 


HABATHi. 

Pnstaken  wik- 

ndrd 
EdnsAr,    Pita- 

lecheu      kdm 

karndrd,  KAd' 

sya-kdr 
Gawandi 
Khdtak 
Sutdr 

MithdlwdlA 

Swayampdkl 
Ealdwantin, 
Eanchani 
Gandhi 
Bangdrl 
Ndlband 
Edchhi,  Eunjard 


GAndhl,  PasArl    Pasdri,  EirAnyd 


Sondr 

Chdbnksawdr 

ShikAri 

Jauhari 

Sh'ubadah-bdz 

Bazzdz 

EaUwant 

Na^d^h, 

Musawwlr 
Hakim,  Tl&hih 
Jotiy&,Halwdh& 
TdBzdtTf  (house 

servant)  Dar- 

Un 
Bassi     bandne- 

wdlA 
Zln  bandnewdld 
§uratgar,  Na^^- 


Sondr 

Chdbnk  swar 

Pdradhi 

Johari 

Gdrodl 

Edpadkari 

Wdjaiitri 

Chitdri 

Waidya 
Ndftgaryd 
(of  a  house)  Bar- 
wdn,  Helkari 

Dor     karfidrd, 

Eaiijdrl 
Jingar 
Mi!irtikdr 


Gop,  Pdsbdn 

Diikdnddr 

Arrah-kash, 

Eardnti 
Mochi 
G  d  n  e  w  d  1  d, 

Eawwdl 
9ajjdm,  jard(i 
Darzi 
Eharddi 


Dhangar 

Dukdnddr 

EarwatAdrd 

Mochi 
Gawayi,  Gdndrd 

Shastra  waidya 

Shimpf 

Edntdri 


GVJABATi. 

Pustak,   or    chopadi 

wechndro 
Edusiyo 


Eadiyo 

Ehdtaki 

Suthdr 

Halwdi,      Mithdi 

wd}o 
Rasoyo 
Kdyakan,  Kdmjanl 

Gdndhi 

Bangrej,  Baiigdri 
Ndlbaiidh 

• 

Tdi'kdri  bechndro, 

Pastdgiyo 
Gdndhi,  Eariydiui- 

wdlo,  Wanik 
Sonl 

Chdbuk  sawdr 
Pdradhi 
Jaw6rl 
Gdrodl 
Bajdj 
Wdjantri,  Sdranp:i- 

wdlo 
Chitdri 

Waidya 
Ehedut 
Wdhik,  Majdr 


Doraddu  wanndr 

•  • 

Jingar 

Pathhar  upar  naksh 
athwd  ak^har 
khodndro,  Mnrti 
kamdro 

Bharwdd 

Dukdnddr 

Eardi 

Mochi 
Gawaiyo 

Shastrawaidya 

Darjl 

Eharddi,  Sanghddio 


Sect.  I. 


VOCABULARY. 


83 


ExaUBH. 

Hindustani. 

Marathi. 

GUJABATI. 

Vintner 

Shardb  farosh 

Drdksh&tsd  r^s 
wikndrd 

Ddru  wechndr,  Kaldl 

Waterman 

PAnlwdlA,   Bih- 

Pdnakyd 

Pdnl  wdlo,  Bhisti, 

ishtl 

(boatman)  Ehdrwo 

Weaver 

Shdll,  Juldhd 

Ko9htl,  Winndrd 

Wankar 

Workshop 

KAikhinnh 

Shilpshdld 

Kdrkhdnuii 

Anvil 

Sind^n,  Ghan 

Airan 

Jjohdrnun  hathidr 

Awl 

Naharnl 

Ari  * 

A'ri 

Axe 

Kulh&rl 

Kiirh&d,  Parashu 

Kuhddi 

• 

Brush 

Kiinchl 

Kuiichi,  Mdrjani 

Jbdduu 

Chisel 

Tdnkl 

Vindhhanen 

Widhnuu 

Compasses 

Parkdr 

Earkat 

Gol    chakdun  kdd- 
hwdnun  hathiyar 

Enamel 

Mlndkdrl 

Mind 

Mlndkdrl 

File 

Sohan 

Kdnas 

Kdnas,  Retadi 

Fish-hook 

Gal 

Mdse  dharany- 

Mdchhldn  pakadwd- 

dtsd  gal 

noankodo  athwd  ga- 

Furnace 

Bhatthl 

Bhattl 

Bhaththl* 

Gilding 

TildicAri,    Mu- 

(to    gild)    Rasa- 

Dhor  chaddwuu 

• 

lamm'a  sonti- 

wine,   Muldmd 

kdr 

dene 

Glue 

Saresh 

Saras 

Saresh 

Hammer 

Hathaurd 

Hatodd 

Hathodi 

Hand-mill 

Chakki 

Dzatii'i,  Gharat 

Pdnlnl,  Ghaftti 

Inlay  (to) 

Jarnd 

Dzadan  kdm 

•       • 

Jadwuii 

• 

Line 

Doro 

Dorl 

Dor 

Loom 

tant 

Mag 

Wan  karni  sdl 

Leather 

Chamra 

Tsdmad.  Kdtadeu 

Chdmdun,  Chdmdi 

Mallet 

Mogrl 

Mekhchii,  Mogar 

Mogar 

Mould 

Sdnchl 

Sdntsd 

Blbun,  Sdncho 

Nail 

KUd,  Mekh 

Khild 

Chunk,  Khilo 

Net 

JAl 

Dzdiefi 

Jdl,  Jdluu 

Paint 

Rang 

Rang 

Rang 

Plane 

Randah 

Raiidd,  Roukhnl 

Randho 

Press 

Shikanjah, 

Chhdp,  Chhdpny- 

Chdp 

(Printing) 

dcheii  yantra 

Chhapklianali 

Ruler 

Mistar 

Ankni 

Ankni 

Saw 

Arrah,  Karwat 

Karwat 

Karwat,  Karwatl 

Sieve 

Chalnl 

Tsdlan 

Chdlni 

Screen 

Pardah 

Paddd 

Paddo 

Shuttle 

Mdkhii 

Dhoteii 

Kdiitlo 

Tool 

Hathiyar 

Hatydr,  Adt 

Hathidr,  Yantra 

Water-mill 

Panchakki 

Pdn  tsakki 

Pdnlnl  chakki 

Wind-mill 

Pdwanchakkt 

Pawan  tsakki 

Pawan  chakki 

Wedge 

Pachcliar 

Pdtsar 

Fdchar,  Khunti 

Wire 

Tdr 

Tdr 

Tdr 

School  and 

Maktahf 

Sh^ld  wa  vldyd- 

]Sl»hdl  ane  rvidyd- 

CoUefjc, 

Madrasah, 

laya. 

laya. 

Author 

Musannif 

Graiitlia  kdr 

Granthkdr 

Ball 

GencM 

Chendd 

Dado 

Bat 

Chaugdn 

Ddiidi:i 

• 

Daiidiyui'i 

Blot 

DdgU 

PAg 

^^'^-^                              r.      w 

Book 

Kitab 

Pustak 

Ch()pudi,Pustak,rotlii 
a  2 

64 

INTRODUCTION. 

feect.  1.                1 

English. 

Hindustani. 

Mabathi. 

GUJABATf. 

Chapter 

Rdb 

Adhydya 

Adhydya,  Bdb 

Column 

Saflie  kd  ek 
khand 

Asaii,  Rakdnd 

Asan 

Conclasion 

Khdtimah 

Shewat 

Samdpti,  Chhedo 

Copy 

"Nakl 

Prat 

Prat,  Nakal                                  , 

Dictionaiy 

Lughat 

Kosh 

Kosh,    Shabda    saii- 
graha 

Dance 

Bewulfiif 

Akshar  shatru 

Bewaki!if,    Ak.^har 
shatru 

Education 

T'allm 

Shik§ha 

Kelawanl,  "Widyd, 
Shikshd 

Exercise 

Mashk 

Abhyds 

Abhyds                                         / 

Fable 

Nakl  * 

Go§ht,  Kathd 

Wdt 

History 

Tawdrikh 

Itihds,  Bakhar 

Itihds,  Bakhar 

Index 

Fihrist 

Anukramauikd 

Anukramanikd 

Ink 

Siydhl 

Shdl 

Shdl 

Leaf 

War,  Pattd,Ak 

Patr,  Pdn 

Pdn,  Patr 

Lecture 

Bars,  W'd}? 

Vvdkhydn 

Bhdshan                                         i 

Lesson 

Saba]^ 

Dhadd,  Path 

Sabak.  Pdth 

Line 

Satar 

Regh,01 

Lik,  01,  Paiikti 

Margin 

Hdshiyah 

Kdnth,  Pusta- 
kdchl  kad 

Hasiyo 

Maxim 

Masl 

Mhan,  Wachan 

Kehewat,  Wachan 

Page 

Safiiah 

Prishth 

Pri§hth,  Safo 

Paper 

Kdghag 

Kdgad 

Kdgad 

Pen 

Kalam 

Lekhni 

Kalam 

Pencil 

Saldi,  Surme  kd 
Icalam 

Shishdtsd  kalam 

Shishdnuii  kalam 

Pen-Vnife 

Chdku,  Kalam 
tardsh* 

Tsdkii 

Chdkii 

Pasteboard 

Dafti 

Jdddkdga^l 

Dopl§thdn 

Play 

Khel 

Khel 

Bamat,  Khel 

Play-fellow 

Hamjiif 

Khelgadi 

Bhillu 

Play-ground 

Khelne  ki  jai 

Khelnydchi 
dzdgd 

Ramdwani  jagd 

Poet 

Shd'ir 

Kawi 

Kawi 

Preface 

Dlbdjah 

Prastdwand 

Prastdwand,  Dibdcho 

Professor 

Mu*alIim,Ustdd, 
Mudarris 

Widyd  guru 

Widyd  guru 

Prose 

Nasr 

Gadya 

Bakhar 

Proverb 

Kaiidwat 

Mhaii 

Kehewat                                       i 

Rule 

Kdniin 

Rlti,  Kdnii 

Ritl 

Rhyme 

Bal^r,  Nagm 

Yamak 

Yamak 

Rod 

Chharl 

Chhadl,  Kdthl 

Chhadl 

Scholar 

Tdlib  i  'ilm 

Shishya 

Nisdliyo,  Shishya 

School 

Maktab 

Shdld 

Nishdl 

School-hours 

Maktab  kd  wakt  Shdletsa  wel 

Nishdlni  wakhat 

School-master 

Mudarris, 

Pantojl,  (of  Mus- 

Mehtdji 

A'khiin 

liTn3)  Mulld 

Section 

Kalam,  Fasal 

Warg  {of  a  booh] 
Prakai-n,  Adhy- 
dya 

Warg,  Khaud 

Student 

T  dllb  1  'ilm 

Wdydrthl 

Widydrthl 

Teaching 

Dai's 

Shikawine 

Sikawawaii,   Bhand- 
wawun 

Sect.  1. 

VOCABULARY. 

b 

English. 

Hindustani. 

MABi-THI. 

GUJAEATf. 

Tutor 

AWik. 

Shikawindrd, 
Shik§hak 

Guru 

Verse 

Na^jm,  Sh'ir 

Padya,  Kawitd 

Kawitd,  Charan 

Writing 

Lekh 

Lihine,  l^astdk- 
shar 

Lekh,  Dastdwej 

Word 

Shabd,  Laf  ^ 

Shabd 

Shabd,  Bol 

Colours, 

Banff. 

Manff. 

Baiig, 

Black 

EiUd 

Kdld 

Edld 

Blue 

A'smdnl 

Nil,  Shydm, 
Krifihn 

Nil 

Brown 

Bhiira 

Udi,Baddmi,Tap- 
kiri 

Baddmi 

Dun 

Zard 

Dzardd 

Jardo 

Green 

Sabz 

Hirwd 

Lilu 

Indigo 

Nil 

Nild 

Gull,  Nile 

Lilac 

Jam  kd  rang 

Dzdmbud 

Jdmblun 

Orange 

NArangl  Rang 

Ndraiigl 

Ndrangl  rang 

Purple 

ArghawAni 

LdlTSurkli 

Baiiigani 

Weiigani 

Red 

Tambada,  Ldl 

Ldl,  Ratu 

Scarlet 

LAI 

Rakt,  Ldl 

Ldl,  Rdtu 

Spotted 

CliitU,Ddghddr 

Bibatd,  Chitra 

Ddgel 

Striped 

Dhdiiddr 

Pattit 

Pattiddr 

Vermilion 

Shangarfi 

Hinguli 

Hingldkiyuii 

White 

Sufid 

Pdndhi-d 

Bholuu 

Yellow 

PllA 

Piwald 

Jard 

!l7ie  Senses, 

Jlawdif, 

Indriyeti. 

Indriyo, 

Hearing 

Sunnd 

Shravan,  Shruti 

Shrotra,  Sdmbhal- 

Seeing 

Dekhnd 

Dri^bti 

WUIl 

Dfi^hti 

Smelling 

Siinghna 

Ghrdn 

Ghrdn 

Tasting 

ZaiVah  lend 

Swdd,  Ruchi 

Swdd,  Rasnd 

Touching 

Lagdna 

Sparsh  pratyak§h  Sparsh,  Ldgwuii 

Element 

'Un?ur 

Tatwa 

Tattwa 

Figure 

»Siirat,  Shakl, 
Blip 

Akjiti 

Akriti,  Akdr 

Fragrance 

Khushbii 

Suwds,  Sugandb 

Sugandh,  Suwds 

Hardness 

Sakhtl 

Kathinpand 

Kathanpanu 

Beflection 

Fikr,   (shadow) 

Pardwarttan, 

l*ardwrittan 

'Aks 

Pratibirhl) 

Relish 

Mazah 

Swdd,  Ruchi 

Swdd 

Speech 

Bol' 

Wdni,  Wdcha 

Sambhd§han,  Wdni, 
Bha^han 

Silence 

Sukiit 

Maun,  (be  silent) 

Chup 
Chhdyd 

Maun,  Chup 

Shade 

Sdyah,  Chhdiiw 

Chhdyo 

Size 

Kad 

Akdniidn 

Kad 

Softness 

Narml 

Mjidutd,  Maii- 
pand 

Narmi 

Sound 

Awdz 

A'wdf,  Shabd 

Awdj 

View 

Nazar,  (pro- 

Darshan, Alokan 

Darsaw,  Dekhaw, 

spect)  Madd  i 

{purpose)  Mat 

uai^ar 

86 

INTRODUCTION. 

feect.  1. 

English. 

Hindustani. 

MabIthi. 

GUJABATf. 

Admiration 

Acharj 

Sdnanddshcharya  Wakhdn,  Sdnanddsh- 

chaiya 

Anger 

Ghu§§ah 

Rag,  Krodh 

Rls,  Krodh,  Guso 

Awe 

Khauf 

Dhdk 

Dhdk,  Bhay,  Bhitl 

Belief 

BAwar,  'Al^ldah  WishwAs 

Wishwds 

Choice 

Khwdhish 

Pasafitl,  Marjl 

Pasandagi 

Ck)mpassion 

Ra\^m 

Dayd 

Dayd 

Curiosity 

Rdzjoi 

Jijndsd 

Jijndsd 

Dislike 

I'rA? 

Ndwad,  Aprlti 

Aprlti 

Doubt 

Shak 

Sanshay,  Safideh 

Shak,  Saiishay 

Emulation 

Bardbariki 
Kh-^^^sh 

l*ratispardhd 

Pratispardhd 

Envy 

Qasad 

Hewd,  Iri^hd 

fr^hd 

Enjoyment 

Mazah  lend, 
9a^z  lend 

Upabhog 

Upabhog 

Error 

Rhiil,  Chiik 

Tsiik 

Bhiil,  Chrtk,  Khot 

Fear 

Dar,  Khauf 

Bhay 

Bhay 

Friendship 

Dostl 

Maitri,  Dosti 

Dostl,  Sneh,  Maitrl 

Guilt 

Gundh 

Aparddh 

Aparddh 

Happiness 

Rd^at 

fciukh 

Sukh 

Hatred 

'Addwat 

Dwe?h 

Dwe^h 

Hope 

Ummed 

Ashd 

Ashd,  Umed 

Honour 

A'bni,  'Izzat 

Prati^hthd 

I'ratii^hthd,  Mdn,  Ijat 

Ignominy 

Fazltat 

Aprati^htd,  Apa- 

Gerdbru,  Apratish- 

mdn 

thd,      Apamdn, 
Fajetl 

Ignorance 

BewuViifl, 
Ndddni,    An- 
jdnpand 

Adnyaii 

Ajdnpanun,  Ndddni 

Jealousy 

^asad,  Jaldpd; 
Rashk 

Matsfir 

Matsar,  Adekhdi 

Joy 

Khushi 

Auaiid 

Anand,  Khushi 

Knowledge 

'Ilm 

Gydn 

Ddndl 

Love 

'Ishk 

Priti 

Prlti,  Het 

Mercy 

Ra^m 

Kshamd  buddhi, 

Kshamd  buddhi, 

Daydlupand 

Dayd 

Misery 

Dukh,    Kangal- 
pan,  Santdp 

Dainya,  Garlbi 

Garlbi,  Dukh 

Memory 

Tdd 

Ydd,  Smaran 

Ydd 

Opinion 

Mat,  Khiydl 

Mat,  Abhiprdya 

Mat,  Anumat 

Pain 

Dukh 

Pid'a,  Vyathd 

Dukh,  Wedand 

Pleasure 

Sukh 

Sukh,  Santosh 

Sukh,  Majd 

Season 

'A^l,     (motive)  (intellect)Buddhi, 

Buddhi,  Kdran 

Sabab 

(cause)  Kdran 

Refusal 

Inkdr 

Nakdr 

Nakdr,  Inkdr 

Shame 

Sharm 

Ldj,   Lajjd,  Sha- 

Sharam,  Ldj 

Sorrow 

Gham 

ram 
Dilgirl,  Duhkh 

Uddsl,  Santdp 

Temper 

Mizdj 

Swabhdw 

Swabhdw 

Understanding 

Samajh 

Samaz,  Buddhi 

Samjan,  Buddhi 

Vanity 

Ghuriir,     hiydl  Pokalpand 

Dhambhpanuii 

i  bdt;il,  Abhi- 

mdn 

. 

Wisdom 

'Aklmandi 

Shahdnpa^ 

Buddh 

Zeal 

Ghalrat,  Garmi 

Asthd ' 

Asthd,  Dilsoji                             i 

Sect.  I.  DIALOGUtS. 

3  I 


1  S  i  iiiill 


ii  III  i  |3  P 
I  mtijl      ||lf!l1l|i|  l| 

5       1         -     I 


I     1     ^    ■   •  =1 
3  sS  I  5^  III  It  t4 

1   I?  S.  i|l|  I  11  i^i  ill     .St.  4» 

I  j^liiil  ii  ii  if  ii  i 


88 


INTRODUCTION. 


Sect  I. 


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ill    .    5   I    f  s   -g   -a  2^3^   3„   II; 

If  11--:^  1^1'  r  °l^5^  I  a  I 

III  III  :i  iy     1 1   |il|l|    |i 

s  i  1 11 1  I  i  I   II  .  i  ,  f 

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It 


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INTRODUCTION. 


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li  !■    s        i    .„•;;  S   s«|.a  |  las  ^1 

I  i  I  fill  I!  I  111  mi  il 


INTHODUCTIOK. 


J  s  .i  sti  I  t  I  '  t  "eI*^!  i 

J      2^3^  ^3-"u'*§  ^j  C  3  «  =  «  ts-a,!  (J 

i  ligtil    Jltiill  111-  |l!l!lllti 


S-S 


g   -a 


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i.i  ^lll-i  -s^slS  ll'^l  1  ^^n|  as 

I    I    I    1    I  5=1  ll    I'-  s    I    11  1 

I  I  s  ?■  *  I  |l^  -|as|  I  ^  Is  I 


UIALOGUEB. 


1 1       I    4   I    I    ||^    i!    |S  J    I    "S     to    J 

•8.11  ■■  ■"  .=  1=!^       e|  li  t  tsl  5"  ^* 

III  ■riii.lli    l!iifl!|iit  i-i.|i 

*il  I  s  ^  I  ill  «|  i    j  I        ^  i 

^-S-   I   5   ^   15.  ^1?3   ^j-   "5      a   -  eZ^ 

1-1  I  !      1  t'i-  'i-'S     I  I.     Jll 
^^1   I   f  JK   jllS     I.  i'i   Sist, 

l||J  i     ,|l!|.ljpt  I  |i|  i!l°| 

iStsI   !        Ilailillljl   I  III   53?Si 

III  1! |i it  II    II 1  ^ J 

i|!  1 1    5  ft  31.J  I  ^  I  4J 

!i!  j  1 1  i-iti  r;il  I  iHmpj 

J53    f   -sSI    ^as2^     =■^■3:3  3     i    ^''S^.f 5^-3»" 

ass>;        2^b5-         3_4      si  -i   S 

=11    a    ^    B    i    I'       s=    ?      I  j|    ? 

t?!  .1   ^    I    lei's      il   -aj  I   •§  1    ss."| 

^s-l^i  ?  I  "lis.  :s-si  !  i  :-  i.S-l 

!li1l  i  I  Jim  Uni  1 1  !  isiil 

(S  g    ^    3    3    a  5^    oS    M    a.  ^    So    o 


94  IXTRODLCTIOS.  Scct.  I. 

J   I   I  I  S     ^1      -      .S|    a    I!    ° 

si  J I  I  i  1    1-  iil|  i  li  .? 

li!*^  it  I  4   llilllllllllsp 

3  3  c  r  B  c-3.  ■=■5         •S-S-5  35a-gat>53-So2:=« 


ii 


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sa  I  a  ^ 


3l!ii   1.     1   5   H^ 
iJ|||    f|      *    a   III 


II 


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II 


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S  J  J  I  i     I       ..     -sf  i  !  S    I 


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gsl'"^'"8 


-Bags    -«!;*-°*=SBS'*5'^Sut. 


Sect.  I. 

il  1^  I 

it  l^  ?.i|  l!  iil..t-.-l|  i  °||  rl? 

3i;       .9  ■50'  =.a2S=.g"toS 

Sa    °-i   I      s  E      3   I  .3   II   •=   '   i    °'2.» 

I  ?i  •?   11^  *  h  1  lil  -III 


llft*l  t  -33    =-  Il 
II^IJ.    7-  5=   5j    -Mi 


IS^f   1  ^?.  ^   8-«         "tg^-5|li|.sl-ss5:i 

,II|S    I.  gS  ■a.s   aS         sla-=S"|.=  ill|-; 

*'!   *3  .a  '  •     siJs  2  t    I,  4  .§  41  _ 

3:    »      ^  5  Is    a»s    5    3      *  -S    a     1-3 

=  .3.1^1  la  ii as. 3=513153  Ijii-lll  ;; 


■a:|||  I  II  f   IJ  :  i    g  !ill^ 
111 


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HI'S    j  leSgs    s«l|3s«-£  I  IfllaseS 


96  I.XTRODUCTIOX. 

§       1       I!     g         II 
«  _  ?       i'     •„■      II 

vf  i  I  -i-^l  liti    it 

^1    9  1  l-sl-s  -'is    --a  »2     ;:;  -a  -3  I 

™^      -s^    'S    St  &  p 


S-l 


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S  s 


•  Et 


III  i  .s  iiiii.»u     1 51  I   I  m 

s  o  s  --txS     HP?  ^           «  ^     a  saiS 

I   i   I        t.|     i  I      I      I J  ^ 

-■t  s'  I  i^ii   iii  •«   «  ii,-      J 

^■^  ^  l~.    It  iFs.-^        1^  H't  1=1 

Silt   1        |i--l|s           S|  ^J  f  3|| 

n    o    o          M       hq    ^               cg  h    bwm 

•i^    i    •?    -    -^1    -§    ^    -al-s.   .-si  t      :;    J£* 

SH'.  I  l|ii=s||i^«|  11  f  I  III 

I   iS   I   il  4^!   ^  .   I    .11 

^    S-l    -alls    tBI    I  i|    I    Sgl 


lllll 
S  its 


II 


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iiifiilii  j 
I  i|Hi!pilii|ilii 

111!  I  J  1  =  ill 


98  ISTROOUCTION.  ScCt.  I- 

I  III  111.4  S  s  S  ^  ^ft  il     I  I 

ii  h'  yn  111    t!l  |i  J  S  I 

3Ml3'9.|lll|;il  lUlllI  sM|  -J  I 

I  111         i  I 

H    45 
1   2 


s  ^l3  lit    I  I  gj|  i-s.s 


iiiiliiti&ii  II I  Ii 


H      H 


ill  ill  1  .■!  ^  c  I  3 

llill!  ai  sill  5  it*i  s  ?  1  5 

sgl         !l3.  s|||  J  |s||.  1  I  J  I 

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,llf!ii!P|J  .|tl    III 

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|l|lis!iallgt|l?  Itslll^l  «.1^ 


3  2       -i    %  ys.    -a-  £     ^  -2  ■!.  :S 


d   kin  i:i|f!  I?  illl  *  I  |i 
ill  IHiHIIilll  f  tt|1  i  i  111 


H        U 


II  I  ;|l  |f  13  I?  I     i  I  J 

*3       i-   iJ-     »       -"I  -r^  al      fi    a  ^ 

3?    ill!    "i.lt  -S-I    Jl  «  I  it 

il-a  lafs    (3tSti  Is  fa'  3  I  il-a 

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J.|S  I  ill  1=  it  a  l-I  I.  a  1^ 

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■:s.-i  htii  ^-iS-s^s^i.  J  I'lais  3  il^ 

j-gfl    4   sei   It   °-  °  •*      i    S  ■« 

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Ell    •S-S^.'l    |°I3"  -ss-  t^^?    =    I  ^' 

Si  PP!  !l  I  .i^  ffii ;  I  H 


IXTRODUCnOS. 


i!  1  li|l  il  III!    ?l;ll    14  ll 
■395  |a-a4l|-a3sJ|-ii3a§-s=-a 


=llf 


■a1«l 


IIS       a  |s     2-S 
1  Is    S    lid?    1      1*2.        ^    °=       - 


I.- 


S    Is  f   Si       3     pjs     I  -ai  .  11 


I 


1^1     s    S'll 

Sii      ^    ^  !-.     ^-„jJ     ^^S^    Z"^^         a     ilS      SI? 


F!-i 


Sect.  I.  DIALOGUES, 

I    M  I    !  I  i  ~    t 

1.  I  f  !    i  -  1  ^-  f: 

in  S  i  II  til     !i  II  i! 

:§s  liti  lia;    I1       Si  II  ill 


i.4  ■51 


So  S      HHs  S  p.  !5  O  6-ifH 

I II  I  J 1 1  Jl  !l  t  H  11 
I  ft  ^  2?  I  -  ti  !M    il    is 


si    a   |s 


W  .  1  I  s  111  '  II  ;  I    III 

|i  *i  I  III    Jili! Jl  ^t  J 

(.eft's    ^&   ^  oJ|S  "-s^ '^1'°  "^a  =■   ^  =■   Ss"-* 

11 1  il :  t^l!|i  1  ^f,^!   J  lip 


'■5°    3i    s 
af  -si   S 


Sect  I. 

11      Ells-     I 


a^'    T-    ^^    stag    -g  g-S    l-s  o    S 

SS.   Al    iJ    13-1    I  9,3  .Isl  T   I 

=  i  II  i|  :^|.S  s  |!i||!j  !. 

^  I&    S'  ^  •3-  I  ^  i 


i  1^  if  ^  sf 

1% 


3     S.^-;;        -s     S 


^1  Hill  2-1!  I  ""  i  1S|  rii  s  J 

<   JiSSel-   Sl^l   1   1^"    l^ss-s    all   s   I 

I  ssisl  !2il  f  111  h:L-|i|  !-i-1 


5  1 


ll  •=• 


|.l'   =1   s   ^      „   sis   S   II 

3|   I J  III  |t|5|.  J|||55^   I  i 


"PI 


=  1. 

S    w    ^    P    « 


aSa3|4|53S| 


Mm  iS  I  J'  'ii  I  i  i  I 
mmMiMMM  m  III 


Sect.  I.  biAtoQCfeS.  10  • 

fj   i  lit  I.,   I   3   I  I  >  la  |S 

t 


111  ii  i  III  li  I  i  I  r|i  ll  II 

ill  P  i  lit  |l  t  i  I  pi  ^1  Ii 

►ssi  ll  S  »a|   II  4  |i|  111  s^  Is 

!v§5  |i  I  .^tlil  il:li2il!5i?.  Ill 

HE-  H  HH  a-  fHHt-MHO  O 

l|«  1  I  11  f  I  I  3   S  *l  il 

^s"    •"  s        c3  I  2  I  ►.  -  ■^1  ai 

■s-  t  S^      .a  1  -g  3  -B^  -^3 

a4i  i         ii  «  I       :  «  :?  I" 

ll  I  *•?  ii  }       ..-I  I?.  il£ 


1 1 1 1 3  i  |Mi 


lo-al     1=     i'^-S'SS    M     B    I    I     .=  6|    -^l    II 

ityiiii!iii?y.i!teii 

-11  III »    S-iii°=j°.   tsJ-   alif^Sl'sSJ's 


104  IKTBODUCTION. 

it  I  ^1  alii    1^ 

•*8>  5  Is  ?  I  3  1      s    ; 

S^gS«a^3  *        Tea         .„„^ 

ilifill  U  iifi   - 

<  <"S      ^'-'3      5-^:Se)^        fetSrt^ 

8s|   '  ja  i  B.  Ili-s-   t~  2  ;|  J 

!  I  P  ^  I  ^  1 

I     I  -,  I  I  I     5 
«a5  i  to~f  a  Ills- 


3,-  *  Jl  S  I   li 

^■~-    "}    8 


n     ^  B      s   s   K   f? 

%  I  =n  1 1 1 

•slai  f  »^-  a  I  ^  3     I 
iU  ^  si  i  ^  s  I     ■! 

p3  I  is  -Ssi  a-^      I 


^3       i1 

■  i  ?i  t- 

It  3  la    fcS 


1^  1 1  = 

Istf  |||a 


1  1   §a 
a  idB- 


|i  i  I 

fl-S    |-=„ 


«  ?  s 


5=        eS    a 


■S 


ji  li  Is 

1^  s=  !l- 

?*-      o-S  =i^ 
I  3 


^1    -aa^^         b  2      -Sags 

■^    .ill      dl   I    3«lt--3=  -S    5 


ill 


.1  lis  jr|=«'l  tits  3s  =3 

i'  I    I     s.  I   |.       .  !  Ill 

^1  ^tl  ^«  I  il     i  Ig  -^'- 

as  -sP-s    1^°    iSaJS-H^    *  sb  •^i=°'§ 


sl 


!  ^1 


106 


IXTItODUCTIOS. 


I    *    s    -I         S    S 


IBI      I   •*   I 

1^1 1|  ll-l '  l^^i  il  1^       His 
ti  83-  lis     ■;§'"  J.  11       f  =  Sg 


S3|i   |ai        ^1   |s 


III         ="1111  ftjll 


^  3^    s«-aji   3  1 


I 


=1  11      Jd|lt|t  tl  ,.J|I  |i|J| 
•s     Isl  i    I  'ai     i  I  i         III 


■ii  «d  ^Si  ^  I  jl  •  I       a        °  i  :i= 
Si  al   i|l  ;  -s  3iil  •!  s  I        3  I  1^ 

I  si  1144 iJiiilf its itisll  lill^l 
if.  S'^  11:  =  IjiIII'  sil'Slf  sii-sl 

1!  1^  lit  s  iiiii|ir:iP'=!#5s/^ii 

i   II    llHlliil?  !  iltllfK  if 

L^      cQ  _      r^      a      ^      J:  ££.      n      i_i  F-i      X      c 


Sect..  I.  DiALoQuea. 

II  Sis  i   i^   ■=    15 


S  t 


„|l  |,f=  iiXiil 


■^      S     '3     "^  a         ■="      "■■■■«- 


!i  ~  i|  I  I  1 .1    i  II       i  III 

sr=iii|   |i  ilflSlla   sill  illlgil 

J3     I    3    si  J^I'S       ■■S:!!^  «•    ail, 

■"i^al    .Sll  Ml    2  5,-1  isS'S-i^sii 

ta   S   S   X  Kl^av;  as 

I  f  S'  I  I  g  I  ;i  I  Is  .'I  ills 

*!!■ '  i  s  •III'  ^-S  l-°l-  «l  i^'Si 

sails      f.  si-S|IS|^     i-tp-i  l^     l^si 

■sliliill  iii||8|l  flill  --inisl 


108                                  ISTBoDt'OTioK.  Seot.  I. 

itfi     ii  1 11 1 '""I  I  jjl|  li 

s^s^l        la  ^  :^|  -I  K-.  5-1  la-  jf 

I||li.|llitllflll3  III  t^l-l-1^' 


I     IMM    pilip 

jliitlffiliil.  ilii 

■|   MS    iS   ts    I   ^i    IMSSII    i    Si*    S^ 

I  's^_   |i    |l   J   -Sg-   s.-|||fl|   llp;   ■;! 

II  iPKp  |tM||.:l|i||f  iili  sl||l| 


Sect  I. 


DIALOGUES. 


109 


ISTKODUCTIOK. 


11  *f  |i    ^       At    I   ^  - 

Ifi  III  i|   sS|t  l^pa     I  Jl  ■§ 

ill  laj.  I-  hii  «si-i.  J..|!  - 

O-3-a  S.S^  ^-c  .;3      2  3     -3  S5  4  *•      -  *  b  B  H      ^  ^ 

01 5*  SSJS  -E  3 -OS'S  .=.■?!       -9  »T,  tS  P       3  S-'i-^'D-      "^  S 

li  lis  -slss^il  5.-l||  IHia  ,3 

i|  W  i!   1      ^  |S   I.    I  I 


3|a 


■all  ||*    la.        .    -j-y  ,1  II  I 

stills      ^&2«l=        Ills.!|lift  ,.«■ 

fe^-S     I'?'"        i^     li     :3     II     ^-a     d"'     ^«     ^ 

it  ilsg  i:  JpI  iI^es  Is'ffJ  ii 
if  till  !l|iir:  llPl  lull  il 


*l    ^l|t  :iS      I    1    ,       li    II    .=13    •s 
aiii.:3«  sl»ss    °  tt    sis*    si'  M~ 


INDIAN   WOKDS    USED    IN    THIS    VOLUME, 


AmIb,  a  "  commander,"  a  title  of  princes  and  nobles,  as  the  Amira  of 
Sindh. 

Ana  (Anna),  the  16th  part  of  a  rupee,  or  about  three  half-pence, 

BahIdub,  brave,  a  title  of  honour  among  Mu^^ammadans, 

Bandab,  a  port,  or  harbour. 

BanglA  (Bungalow),  a  thatched  house,  the  name  usually  applied  to 
the  houses  of  the  English  in  India,  and  to  the  houses  built  bv 
Government  for  travellers  on  the  public  roads,  whatever  their 
construction. 

Baobi,  a  well. 

BiGAM  (Begum),  a  lady  of  rank,  a  queen  or  princess. 

BbAhman,  a  Hindii  of  the  first  or  priestly  caste. 

Buddhist,  a  worshipper  of  Buddh,  or  Sakya  Muni,  who  died  B.C.  543. 

Caste,  class,  sect,  corruption  of  the  Portuguese  ca^ta^  "  race." 

ChakbA,  a  discus,  the  quoit  of  Vishnu. 

Chunam,  an  English   corruption  of  chUnd,  lime,  a  plaster  of  mortar 

made  of  shells  of  a  remarkable  whiteness  and  brilliance. 
Compound,  an  enclosed  piece  of  ground  round  a  bangld ;  a  corruption 

of  the  Malay  Eam^^ong, 

Daghopa  or  Dahgop,  from  de\  "the  body,"  and  ^t/y,  "to  hide"  a 
circular  structure  in  Buddhistic  temples,  supposed  to  contain*  the 
ashes  or  relicts  of  Buddha,  and  occupying  the  place  of  our  altars. 

DabbXb  (Durbar),  a  royal  court.    In  KAthiawAd,  a  palace. 

DhabmsalA,  alms-house,  or  rest«house  for  travellers. 

DiwAN,  a  minister ;  a  prime  minister. 

0ANA,  an  attendant  of  Shiva. 

GhAt,  steps  on  a  river-side,    A  mountain  leading  like  a  step  to  table- 

^abIm  (Haram),  a  sanctuary  j  ladies'  apartments. 
LAkh,  the  number  100,000. 

MANpAP,  or  Mandib,  a  pavilion  in  front  of  a  temple  ;  an  open  shed. 

SABAf ,  a  caravanser&i. 

"Wiv,  a  well  with  steps  down  to  the  water. 


SECTION  11. 

— f— 

BOMBAY  CITY. 

Bombay  City — Harbour  of  Bombay — Landing  Places — HateU  and  Clvbt 
— Conveyances — Public  Offices — The  Cathedral^The  Town  HaU  a^nd  Mint — 
Custom  Souse  and  Docks — Cotton  Screws — Sassoon  Dock^Kol&ba  Memorial 
Churchy  Cemetery,  and  Liffhthouses — Jtoman  Catholic  Chapelr^St,  Andrew's 
Kirh^  Alexandra  Native  6Hrls*  Institution — Police  Courts  Sir  Jamshidjl 
JtjibhcSs  Pd7'si  Benevolent  Institution  ^Sc/u>ol  of  Design — St.  Xavier's  School 
— New  Mphinstonc  High  School — Ookaldds  Hospital — Dwdrkandth's  Temple 
— House  of  Correction — The  Worklumse — Elphinstone  College — VlctoHa 
Gardens  and  Museum — Christ  Church,  BykaUah — Chant  Medical  CoUege — 
Jamshidji  Hospital  and  DharmscUd — Scotch  Mission  Schools — Nul  Market — 
Giradon  Cemetei'ies — Elphinstone  Dock — Mazagdon — St,  Peter's  Church,  Ma- 
zagaon — Government  House  at  Parell — European  Cemetery  at  Parell — 
Kurld  Cotton  Mills — Government  House  at  Malabar  HUl—Valkeshwar — 
Towers  of  Silence — Pdrsi  Dharmsdld — Shooting — Railways  and  Steamers — 
Sights  in  the  vicinity  of  Bombay — Elcphanta —  Vilidr  Waterwoi'ks — Montpezir 
Caves — KdnhaH  Caves — Ba^sin, 


The  island  of  Bombay  is  situated  in 
lat.  18'  53'  45",  long.  72**  52'.  It  is  one 
of  a  group  of  islands  (perhaps  that 
called  Heptanesia  by  Arrian)  of  which 
the  following  are  the  principal,  pro- 
ceeding from  N.  to  S. :— 1.  Bassln ;  2. 
Dravl;  3.  Versova;  4.  Salsette ;  5. 
Trombay,  in  which  the  hill  called  the 
Neat's  Tongue,  900  ft.  high,  is  a  con- 
spicuous mark;  6.  Bombay;  7.  Old 
Woman's  Island ;  8.  Koldba ;  9.  Ele- 
phanta;  10.  Butcher's  Island;  11.  Gib- 
bet Island ;  12.  Karanjd.  Bombay 
Island  is  in  shape  a  trapezoid,  and  a 
very  fanciful  person  might  see  some 
resemblance  in  it  to  a  withered  leg 
with  a  very  high  heel  and  pointed  toe ; 
the  heel  being  Malabar  Hill,  and  the 
toe  Kol&ba.  It  is  11^  m.  long  from 
the  S.  extremity  of  Kol&ba  to  Zion 
Causeway,  over  which  the  railway 
passes  to  the  larger  island  of  Salsette, 
and  from  3  to  4  m.  broad  in  that  por- 
tion which  lies  to  the  N.  of  the  Espla- 
nade. It  is  difficult  to  estimate  its 
area,  as  the  port  S.  of  the  Esplanade 
is  very  narrow;  but  it  may  be  put 
down  as  about  22  sq.  m.    The  pop.  of 


the  City  according  to  the  census  of 
1872  was  644,406,  but  there  is  good 
reason  for  thinking  this  an  under-esti- 
mate,  for  in  1864  the  census  return  was 
816,562.  It  would  therefore  not  be 
incorrect  to  say  that  the  number  of 
inhabitants  does  not  fall  short  of 
700,000.  When  it  is  remembered  that 
the  greater  bulk  of  this  number  of 
people  is  contained  in  the  quarters  en- 
titled Dhobi  TalAo,  Market,  MAndvl, 
Umarkhdrl,  Bholeshwar,  Khetwddl, 
K4m4tipura^  Kh4r4  Tal&o,  Bykalla, 
Td^wdri,  Mazagdon,  GirgdoA,  Chau- 
patti,  and  Tdrdeo,  which  cover  only 
4  sq.  m.,  it  will  be  seen  how  astonish- 
ingly dense  the  pop.  over  that  area  is, 
and  it  speaks  well  for  the  climate  and 
the  sanitation  of  the  Municipality  that 
there  should  be  comparatively  so  little 
disease  there. 

The  word  Bombay  is  written  by 
Indians  Mamb6,  and  sometimes  Bam- 
b^,  from  a  goddess  called  Mamba 
Devi,  to  whom  there  was  a  temple 
120  years  ago  on  what  is  now 
called  the  Esplanade.  It  was  pulled 
down   and  rebuilt  near  the  Bhendt 


113 


I-  T 

(.  i 

I.  ! 

P 

^'  ; 

J  . 

I-  I 

,d  : 

le 


inshore 
iland,  a 
100  yds 
.8.  from 
part  of 
Pirn  and 

ual   for 
at  what 
in  offi- 
|VBt  the 
d  name 
pposed 
bIi  sold 
Apollo 
yards 
!  Wat- 
conve- 
ot  for 
e  con- 
lustom 
nd  0. 
ul  at 
m.N. 
ebag- 
:hing8 
Souse 
jrhich 
ble  is 
^n  in 
Cndia 
ity  is 
>e  re- 
nntil 
l^ven 
since 
tra- 
will 
ould 
pre- 
lock 
the 
late 
are 

rof 

bay 

ary 

ich 

ed 

lis 

the 

^he 

mt 

ETS, 


s 


Sect.  II.         Bomhay  Harbour — Landing  Plaices — Hotels, 


113 


Bdzdr.  The  Mardtha  name  of  Bombaj 
is  Mumbai,  from  Mahlma,  '<  Great 
Mother,"  a  title  of  Devi,  still  trace- 
able in  Mahim,  a  tower  on  the  W.  coast 
of  Bombay  Island.  Some  people  de- 
rive the  name  from  Buon  Bahia,  *'  fair 
haven,"  and  in  support  of  that  ety- 
mology it  may  be  said  that  it  is  un- 
doubtedly one  of  the  finest  harbours  in 
the  world. 

JBombaj/  Ifarhour, — On  approach- 
ing Bombay  from  the  W.  there  is  little 
to  strike  the  eye.  The  coast  is  low, 
the  highest  point,  Malabar  Hill,  beiug 
only  180  ft.  above  the  sea.  But  on 
entering  the  harbour  a  stranger  must 
be  impressed  with  the  picturesqueness 
of  the  scene.  To  the  W.  the  shore  is 
crowded  with  buildings,  some  of  them, 
as  Koldba  Church  and  the  Tower  of 
the  University,  very  lofty  and  well 
proportioned.  To  the  N.  and  B.  are 
numerous  islands,  and  on  the  main- 
land hills  rising  to  an  altitude  of  from 
1000  to  2000  ft.  Pre-eminent  amongst 
these  is  the  remarkable  hill  of  Bdwd 
Malang,  otherwise  called  Mallangadh, 
on  the  top  of  which  is  an  enormous 
mass  of  perpendicular  rock>  crowned 
with  a  Fort  now  in  ruins.  On  the  pla- 
teau below  the  scarp  was  a  strong 
fortress  which,  in  1780,  was  captured 
by  Captain  Abington,  who  however 
found  the  upper  fort  quite  impregnable. 
(See  Grant  Duff,  vol.  ii.  p.  41.)  Views 
of  this  hill  will  be  found  in  Captain 
Mackenzie's  "  Pen  Sketches,"  1842.  The 
port  is  always  crowded  with  vessels  of 
all  nations,  and  conspicuous  amongst 
them  are  2  monitors,  which  constitute 
one  of  the  important  defences  of  the 
Harbour.  These  are  called  the  "Abys- 
sinia" and  the  "Magdala,"  and  are 
armed  with  10-inch  guns  in  2  turrets. 
A  commission  is  still  sitting  to  con- 
sider the  erection  of  further  defences. 

But  the  existing  defences  of  Bom- 
bay Harbour  are  batteries  on  rocks, 
which  stud  the  sea  from  about  oppo- 
site the  Memorial  Church  at  Koldba  to 
the  Elphinstone  Keclamation.  The  one 
most  to  the  ^  is  called  the  Oyster 
Rock,  which  isVjOOO  yds.  from  the 
shore,  and  8400  ft.  S.W.  of  the  Middle 
Ground  Battery.  The  Fort  on  the 
Middle  Ground  shoal  is  in  the  middle  I 

[i^mJfly— 1880.] 


of  the  anchorage,  1800  yds.  from  shore 
The  3rd  defence  is  on  Cross  Island,  a 
the  N.  end  of  the  anchorage,  100  yds 
from  the  shore,  and  4000  yds.  from 
Middle  Ground.  The  higher  part  of 
the  island  has  been  cut  down  and 
armed  with  a  battery. 

Landing  Places. — It  is  usual    for 
steamers  to  stop  for  J  an  hour  at  what 
is  now  called  Wellington  Pier  in  offi- 
cial papers,  but  which  amongst  the 
public  obstinately  retains  its  old  name 
of  Apollo  Bandar,  which  is  supposed 
to  be  derived  from  the  Palla  fish  sold 
at  this  spot  in  old  times.    The  Apollo 
Bandar  is  within  a  few  hundred  yards 
of  the  public  buildings  and  of  Wat- 
son's Hotel,  and  it  would  be  conve- 
nient to  land  there  were  it  not  for 
baggage,  which  perhaps  is  more  con- 
veniently passed  through  the  Custom 
House  at  Mazagdon.    The  P.  and  0. 
steamer,  after  landing   the  -mail   at 
Apollo  Bandar,  proceeds  about  3  m.  N. 
up  the  harbour  to  Mazagdon.  The  bag- 
gage is  then  all  landed,  and  the  things 
are  passed  through  the  Custom  House 
ex|)editiously.    The  only  article  which 
l^ays  a  high  duty  and  gives  trouble  is 
firearms.    If  these  have  not  been  in 
India  before,  or  have  not  been  in  India 
for  a  year,  a  high  ad  valorem,  duty  is 
levied  on  them,  and  they  cannot  be  re- 
moved from  the  Custom  House  until 
the  duty  is  paid,  or  a  certificate  given 
that  a  full  year  has  not  elapsed  since 
the  owner  left  India.    Unless  the  tra- 
veller has  a  friend  in  Bombay  who  will 
send  a  carriage  to  meet  him,  it  would 
be  well  to  have  ordered  by  the  pre- 
vious mail  a  carriage  and  a  bullock 
cart  for  his  luggage  from  one  of  the 
hotels  to  meet  him.    This  will  obviate 
a  considerable  delay  where  there  are 
many  desagremcns. 

Hotels  and  Clubs, — The  best  way  of 
locating  oneself  on  arrival  at  Bombay 
is  to  obtain  admission  as  an  honorary 
member  of  the  Bykallnh  Club,  which 
is  however  inconveniently  situated 
very  exclusive,  and  subject  to  dis 
agreeable  odours  from  the  Flats,  as  the 
low  ground  round  it  is  called.  The 
Bombay  Club  is  in  a  very  convenient 
locality,  close  to  the  public  buildings, 
and    in    a    better    atmosphere ;    the 


lU 


Bonnhay  Cky, 


Sect.  11. 


cuisine  ii  also  excellent  The  best 
hotels  axe  Watson's  Esplanade  Hotel, 
a  large  building  on  the  Esplanade,  and 
open  to  the  refreshing  sea  breeze ;  and 
the  Victoria  Hotel,  kept  by  Palanji, 
ahoat  ^  of  m.  to  the  N.  of  Watson's, 
which  18  small,  but  comfortable.  At 
Bykallah,  also,  there  are  2  hotels,  of 
which  Palanjfs  Family  Hotel  can  be 
recommended.  The  Waverley  Hotel 
in  the  Fort  is  also  well  spoken  of,  and 
belongs  to  the  same  proprietor  as  the 
Ohauk  Hotel  at  Hdtherdn.  The  terms 
are  5  rupees  a  day.  The  hotel  expenses 
altogether  will  be  from  7  to  10  rs.  a 
day.  There  is  also  a  comfortable  hotcd 
at  Khambdla. 

Conveyance. —  Having  secured  a 
pied  a  terre,  it  will  be  necessary  to 
hire  a  carriage,  which,  with  a  single 
horse,  will  cost  5  rs.  a  day;  with  2 
horses  10  rs.  Carriages  can  be  got 
from  the  stables  of  Ludda  Abram, 
Pedroz,  and  others.  There  is  a  very 
convenient,  but  not  aristocratic  mode 
of  travelling  by  the  tramway,  which 
was  opened  in  1 873.  It  starts  from  near 
Grant's  Buildings  in  Koldba,  and  runs 
by  Hornby  Bow  and  Oriental  Bank 
Bead  to  the  Money  School,  on  a  double 
track.  It  proceeds  with  a  single  track 
by  Kalba  Devi  Boad  and  Parell  Boad 
to  Jail  Boad,  and  then  along  Parell 
Boad  by  a  double  track,  passing  over 
a  bridge  to  Bykallah.  There  is  a  double 
line  from  the  comer  of  Cruikshank 
Boad  to  the  Markets,  and  a  single 
through' Abdu'r  Bal^imdn  Street  toPAyd- 
honl,  where  it  joins  the  Parell  line. 
The  latest  addition  is  from  the  corner 
of  Cruikshank  Boad  by  Bampart  Bow 
East  to  Elphinstone  Circle,  and  by 
Marina  Street  to  Wellington  Foun- 
tain. Pdlkis  now  are  little  used, 
and  the  buggies,  which  are  the  cabs 
of  Bombay,  are  most  unsatisfactory 
vehicles. 

Puhli/j  OJicet.-^The  public  Build- 
ings succeed  one  another  in  the  fol- 
lowing order,  from  N.  to  S.,  in  a  line 
close  to  Wat69n's  Hotel  on  the  Espla- 
nade :— Telegraph  Offices,  Post  Office, 
Public  Works  Ctece,  Law  Courts,  Uni- 
versity library  and  Dock  Jower,  Uni- 
versity Hall,  Secretariate,  Sailors* 
Hotne.    There  is  a  building   to  the 


N.E.  of  the  Telegraph  Offices  which 
is  used  for  the  accommodation  of  the 
employes  of  the  telegraph  department. 

It  must  be  confessed  that  on  enter- 
ing the  harbour  the  back  view  of  these 
buildings  is  not  impoBing.  Their  grey 
colour,  though  far  less  beautiful  to  the 
eye  than  the  dazzling  white  of  stone 
or  marble  buildings,  is  at  aU  events 
free  from  glare,  and  the  traveller  on 
reaching  the  Esplanade  and  approach- 
ing them  closely  will  be  astonished 
to  see  what  fine  edifices  they  are, 
and  how  admirably  the  details  are 
finished. 

Ike  Telegraph  Qffieei,'-'Th\&  build- 
ing  is  in  the  Modem  Gothic  style,  and 
182  ft.  long  by  55  ft.  broad.  The  facing 
is  of  coursed  rubble  stone  from  Kurla 
in  Salsette,  and  the  columns  are  of 
bla6  basalt.  The  ground  floor  is 
paved  with  Minton  tiles.  A  tablet  is 
placed  here  with  the  following  in- 
,  scription  :— 

This  buildinc  for  the  Bombay  Dlviaion  of 
Telegraphs  and  British  Indian  Bub-Marine 
Telegraph,  was  erected  from  designs  by  W. 
Paris,  A. R.I. B.  A.,  Architect  to  Government, 
and  sanctioned  by  the  Government  of  India  ou 
the  22nd  of  September,  1871. 

The  work  was  commenced  on  the  2nd  of 
November,  1871,  H.E.  the  Right  Honorable 
Sir  Seymour  Vesey  Fitzgerald,  G.C.S.I.,  Go- 
vernor and  President  in  Council,  and  was 
completed  on  the  20th  April,  1874 ;  H.E.  the 
Honorable  Sir  Philip  Edmond  Wodehouse, 
K.C.B.,  Governor  and  President  in  Council. 

The  work  was  carried  out  under  the  imme- 
diate orders  of  J.  H.  E.  Hart,  M.InstC.E., 
from  November  1871  to  November  1872; 
Colonel  J.  A.  Fuller,  R.E.,  from  November 
1872  to  April  1874.  Manchaiji  K4\:i^i 
(Cowasjee)  Marzbdn  being  Assistant-Engineer 
in  chai*ge. 

Estimate  as  sanctioned,  Rs.  2,45,840 ;  actual 
cost,  Rs.  2.44,697. 

Colonel  M.  K.  Kennedy,  R.E., 

Secretary  to  Government  F.  "W.  D. 

The  Post  Office  has  3  floors,  and  is 
242  ft.  long  and  71  ft.  broad,  with 
wings  on  the  N.  side  41  ft.  broad.  It 
is  in  the  Mediaeval  style,  and  was  de- 
signed by  Mr.  Triibshawe.  The  stone 
used  is  the  same  as  that  of  the  Tele- 
graph Oflices ;  the  arrangement  is  ex- 
cellent in  point  of  convenience,  and 
large  brass  plates  give  the  most  de- 
tai&d  information  as  to  the  bnsineBs 
carried  on  in  each  portion  of  the 
building.    A  tablet  with  the  following 


Sect.  11. 


The  Public  Woi'ks  Offii^e — Law  Couiis, 


115 


inscripfiolt  near  the  main  entrance 
gives  the  particulars  of  the  erection  of 
the  building : — 

The  General  Post  Office,  erected  from  deaigiis 
by  J.  Triibshawe,  Architect  to  Government, 
and  W.  Paris,  A.R.I.B.A.,  Architect  to  Go- 
vernment, and  sanctioned  by  the  Government 
of  India  on  the  2l8t  of  February,  1870.  This 
work  was  commenced  on  11th  April,  1869, 
H.B.  the  Bight  Honorable  Sir  Seymour  Vesey 
Fitzgerald,  G.C.S.I.,  Governor  and  President 
in  Council,  and  was  completed  on  the  1st  of 
December,  1872;  H.E.  the  Honorable  Sir 
Philip  Edmond  Wodehouse,  K.C.B.,  Governor 
and  President  in  Council. 

The  work  was  curried  out  under  the  im- 
mediate orders  of  Lieut. -Col.  J.  A.  Fuller,  B.  E. , 
fh>m  April  1869  to  Hay  1871 ;  J.  H.  E.  Hart, 
H.In8l.C.E.',  firom  May  1871  to  November 
1872 ;  C6L  J.  A.  Fuller,  B.B.,  f!rom  Jfovember 
1872  to  December  1872 ;  Manchaijl  Kdili^i 
(Cowasjee)  Marzbto  being  Assistant  -  Engi- 
neer in  charge.  Estimate  as  sanctioned,  Bs. 
5,09,992 ;  actual  cost,  Bs.  5,94,200. 

There  are  in  Bombay  daily  6  deli- 
veries of  letters,  at  8,  10,  and  11.30 
AJf . ;  12.30,  2,  and  5  P.M.  The  post 
for  all  places  on  the  N.E.  of  the 
G.  I.  P.  Railway  leaves  at  4.50  p.m.  ;  for 
Fund,  Madras,  and  AVmadnagar,  at 
1.20  P.M.;  for  Sindh  and  Kachh  at 
7.30  P.M.  The  mail  for  England  closes 
every  Monday  for  letters  at  6.30  p.m., 
and  for  papers  and  books  at  3  p.m. 
Late  packets  are  received  at  Apollo 
Bandar  till  6.30  P.M.  on  extra  payment. 

The  Public  Works  Office  comes  next, 
and  is  separated  from  the  Post  Office 
by  a  broad  road  which  leads  E.  to  the 
Fort  by  Church  Gate  Road  and  W.  to 
a  railway  station.  The  P.  W.  Office  is 
288 J  ft.  long  and  60i  ft.  broad  and  1 IG 
ft.  high,  inie  central  buUding  has  G 
stories,  and  the  other  part  3  stories. 
Near  the  main  entrance  is  a  tablet  with 
the  following  inscription : — 

This  building  for  the  Offices  of  the  Public 
Works  Department  was  erected  firom  designs 
by  Colonel  (then  Captain)  H.  St.  Clair  Wil- 
kms,  B.E.,  A.D.O.  to  the  Queen,  and  sanc- 
tioned by  the  Oovenm^ent  of  Bombay  on  the 
4th  of  May.  1869. 

The  work  was  commenced  on  the  1st  of 
May,  1869 ;  H.E.  the  Right  Honorable  Sir 
Seymour  Vesey  Fitzgenud,  O.C.S.I.,  Go- 
vernor and  President  in  Council,  and  was 
completed  on  the  1st  of  April,  1872;  H.E. 
the  Honorable  Sir  Philip  Edmoud  Wode- 
house, K.C.B.,  Governor  and  President  in 
Council. 

The  work  was  carried  out  under  the  imQie^ 
diate  orders 'of  Lieut. -Col.  J.  A.  Fuller,  K.E., 
flfom  May  1;jOI>  to  May  1871 ;   J.  H.  E.  Hatt, 


M.InstC.E.,  from  May  1871  to  April  1872, 
Wasudew  B4puji  Kanitker  being  Assistant 
Engineer  in  charge. 

Estimate  an  Kauctioned,  Bs.  4,38,937;  actual 
cost,  Rs.  4,14,481. 

Colonel  M.  K.  Kenncly,  R.E., 

Secretaiy  to  Government  P.  W.  D. 

The  Railway  Department  is  in  this 
office. 

Law  Courts, — This  immense  build- 
ing is  662  ft.  long  and  187  ft.  broad. 
The  height  to  the  eaves  is  90  f  t. ,  and 
to  the  top  of  the  Tower  176  ft.  The 
Judges  first  took  their  seats  here  on  the 
27th  of  January,  1S79.  The  structure 
runs  almost  N.  and  S.  The  style  is 
Early  English  Gothic.  The  pnncipal 
entrance  is  under  a  large  arched  porch 
in  the  W.  facade,  oa  either  side  of 
which  is  an  octagon  tower  120  ft.  high, 
crowned  with  spirelets  of  white  Por- 
bandar  stone,  and  surmounted  with 
statues  of  Justice  and  Mercy. 
Through  these  towers  are  2  private 
staircases  for  the  Judges ;  that  on  the 
left  or  S.  side  l)eing  for  the  Appellate 
Judges,  and  that  on  the  N.  for  the 
Judges  of  the  Original  side.  The  main 
staircase  is  on  the  E.  side,  and  is  ap- 
proached by  a  noble  groined  corridor, 
10  ft.  wide,  in  Porbandar  stone,  which 
runs  through  the  building  from  the 
porch,  the  floor  being  paved  vdth 
Minton  tiles.  On  either  side  of  the 
corridor  are  2  rooms  49  ft.  by  22 J  ft., 
one  for  prisoners  and  the  other  for 
printing-presses.  On  the  E.  side  2 
elliptical  staircases  give  access  from 
the  1st  floor  upwards.  There  are  on 
the  ground-floor  4  rooms  44  ft.  by  34 
ft.,  and  4  others  2.3  ft.  by  214  ^^-j  ^^ 
three  44  ft.  by  34  ft.,  besides  a  library 
of  the  same  size,  and  retiring  rooms. 
The  offices  of  the  High  Court  are  on 
the  Ist  and  3rd  upper  floors.  The 
Appellate  and  Original  Courts  are  on 
the  2nd  floor.  There  are  9  spiral  stone 
staircases  from  the  ground-floor,  and 
13  from  the  1st  floor.  On  the  N.  side 
are  2  Original  Courts,  and  on  the  8. 
side  1  Original  Court  and  2  Appellate 
Courts.  The  Judges'  Chambers  at  the 
respective  courts  arc  handsome,  and 
over  each  entrance  there  is  a  brass 
plate  with  the  name  of  the  Judge.  The 
Criminal  Court  is  in  the  centre  oi  the 
building  above  the  main  colrridor,  and 

I  2 


116 


Bombay  City. 


Sect.  II. 


is  44  ft.  high.  It  is  50  x  CO  ft.,  with 
angles  cut  off,  and  has  a  carved  teak 
gaUery  running  round  3  sides,  where 
the  public  are  allowed  to  sit.  The 
ceiling  is  of  dark  polished  teak  in 
panels,  with  a  carved  centre-piece. 
The  floor  is  Italian  mosaic,  the  wall 
being  coloured  light  blue  picked  out 
with  white.  Under  the  Judge  sit  the 
Clerk  of  the  Crown  and  other  officers, 
and  opposite  are  the  counsel.  Behind 
are  railed  places  for  the  prisoners  and 
police,  and  on  either  side  of  the  bar- 
risters' table  the  jury-boxes.  The 
witness-box  is  at  the  right-hand  comer 
of  the  table.  All  these  are  on  a  raised 
platform  of  wood  in  the  centre  of  the 
room,  leaving  the  2  sides  of  the  Court 
clear.  On  the  elliptical  staircase  roofs 
are  large  reservoirs  for  water  with 
pipes  to  the  ground-floor,  with  4-inch 
hose  taps  fixed  in  each  floor,  and  the 
hose  coiled  beside  them.  In  case  of 
fire  the  hose  can  be  coupled  to  the  tap, 
and  a  powerful  volume  of  water  di- 
rected against  any  spot  near.  The 
walls  are  of  rubble  and  chunam,  faced 
with  blue  basalt  roughly  dressed.  The 
bases  are  of  Sewrl  blue  basalt,  the 
columns  of  Kurla  basalt,  with  capitals 
of  Porbandar  stone.  The  arches  of 
the  ground  floor  are  of  Kurla  stone, 
and  those  of  the  upper  floors  of  Por- 
bandar stone.  The  corridors  and  para- 
pets are  of  Kurla  basalt  with  columns 
of  red  basalt  and  capitals  of  Porbandar 
stone,  with  a  coping  of  blue  Sewri 
stone.  The  roof  parapets  are  per- 
forated with  quatrefoils  and  trefoils. 
ITie  spirelets  of  the  octagon  towers  are 
of  Porbandar  stone.  The  roofs  are 
covered  in  vrith  Taylor's  tiles  over 
6-inch  planks  of  teak,  tongued  and 
grooved  with  Gothic  teak  trusses. 
From  the  windows  of  the  tower  fine 
views  are  obtained.  On  the  E.  are  the 
harbour  fringed  with  islands,  Modi 
Bay,  and  the  Fort ;  and  to  the  W. 
are  Malabar  Hill,  Back  Bay,  and 
Koldba  Point.  The  whole  building 
does  much  credit  to  General  J.  A. 
Fuller,  R.E.,  who  designed  it.  This 
vast  building  is  said  to  have  cost 
£100,000. 

University  Xfi^^o^ry  and  ClocTc  Tower, 
— The  Library  is  a  long   low  room 


adorned  with  handsome  carving,  llie 
flying  or  open  staircases  attached  to 
the  outside  of  the  building  are  very 
elegant.  The  Great  University  or 
RAjd  Bdl  Tower  is  annexed  to  the 
Library  on  the  W.  side,  and  is  from 
its  vast  height  the  most  remarkable  of 
the  many  remarkable  buildings  in 
Bombay.  It  is  260  ft.  high,  and  there- 
fore 8  ft.  higher  than  the  Kujb  Mindr 
at  Dilli,  and  was  founded  at  the  ex- 
pense of  Mr.  Premchand  Baichand, 
who  assigned  for  its  erection  300,000 
rs.,  being  a  gift  in  memory  of  his 
mother,  RAja  Bdl.  He  also  gave 
100,000  rs.  for  the  Library,  and  these 
sums  with  accumulations  more  than 
sufficed  to  complete  the  2  buildings. 
The  Tower  is  divided  into  8  parts,  the 
porch,  the  1st,  2nd,  3rd,  4th,  5th,  and 
6th  floors,  and  the  portion  above  them. 
The  ceilings  of  the  porch  and  of  the 
1st  floor  are  of  Porbandar  stone  gi'oined 
and  supported  on  ribs.  Access  to  the 
Tower  is  gained  by  a  solid  stone  spiral 
staircase,  which  is  only  21  inches  wide. 
The  1st  floor  is  25  ft.  from  the  ground, 
and  forms  part  of  the  upper  room  of 
the  Library.  From  the  1st  to  the  2nd 
floor  is  42  ft.,  with  62  steps.  The  2nd 
floor  contains  a  study  for  the  Registrar, 
23  ft.  sq.  There  is  an  opening  several 
feet  square  in  the  centre  of  the  floor, 
and  over  it  are  other  openings  in  the 
ceilings  above,  so  that  one  can  look  up 
115  ft.  to  the  ceiling  of  the  Dial  Room. 
The  3rd  floor  is  26  ft.  above  the  2nd, 
and  has  a  room  23  ft.  sq.  and  20  ft.  high. 
Tlie  4th  floor  is  for  the  great  clock, 
and  has  in  each  of  its  4  sides  a  dial 
opening  12  ft.  6  in.  in  diameter.  Under 
the  dials  outside  are  4  small  galleries, 
each  approached  by  a  small  door  and 
protected  by  ornamental  stone  balus- 
trades. Above  the  dials  the  chamber 
changes  from  a  square  to  an  octagon, 
the  projection  being  supported  on  large 
cut  stone  corbels.  Above  the  dial 
chamber  the  staircase  ascends  only 
one  more  flight,  and  stops  at  a  height 
of  184  ft.  from  the  ground.  At  a  height 
of  15  ft.  above  the  gallery,  in  niches  cut 
in  the  pillars  which  form  the  comers  of 
the  octagon,  are  figures  8  ft.  high,  repre- 
senting the  Castes  of  W.  India ;  and 
I  above  them,  where  the  octagon  ceases 


Sect.  II. 


University  Hall — The  SecretaricUe. 


117 


and  the  cupola  commences,  is  another 
set  of  figures,  all  modelled  by  RAo 
BahMur  Makund  R^mchandra.  There 
are  also  8  more  statues  in  niches  about 
80  ft.  above  the  ground  level,  making 
in  all  24  statues  representing  the  Castes 
of  W.  India.  From  the  cupola  a  copper 
tube  of  2^  in.  diameter,  forming  the 
lightning  conductor,  descends  to  the 
ground,  and  is  carried  to  a  distance  of 
60  ft.,  and  imbedded  12  ft.  below  the 
surface.  A  tablet  with  the  following 
inscription  will  be  seen  in  the  Uni- 
versity Library : — 

The  University  Library  and  R^d  Bdi  Clock 
Tower  was  erected  from  designs  by  Sir  Gilbert 
Scott,  B.A.,  F.S.A.,  F.R.I. A.,  and  sanctioned 
by  the  Government  of  Bombay  on  the  16th 
January,  1869. 

The  work  was  commenced  on  the  Ist  of 
March,  1869.  His  Excellency  the  Right 
Honorable  Sir  Seymour  Vesey  Pltzgerald, 
G.C.S.I.,  Cliancellor;  Rev.  John  Wilson, 
F.  R.  S. ,  Vice-chancellor. 

The  work  was  completed  in  November,  1878. 
His  Excellency  the  Honorable  Sir  Richard 
Temple,  Bart.,  G.C.S.I.,  Chancellor;  the 
Honorable  James  Gibbs,  C.S.,  F.R.O.S,,  Vice- 
Chan  cellor. 

Tliis  work  was  carried  out  under  the  imme- 
diate orders  of  Lieut. -Col.  J.  A.  Fuller,  R.E., 
from  March  1869  to  May  1871 ;  J.  H.  E.  Hart, 
M.Inst. C.E.,  from  May  1871  to  November 
1872;  Lieut -Col.  J.  A.  Fuller,  R.E,,  ftam 
December  1872  to  November  1878 ;  Rio  Ba- 
hadur Makund  Ramchandra  being  Assistant- 
Engineer  in  charge. 

The  entire  cost  of  the  building,  together 
with  the  Clock  and  Chimes,  was  contributed 
by  Premchand  Raichand,  Esq.,  J. P. 

Lieut. -General  Sir  Michael  Kennedy,  Kt, 
C.S.I.,  R.E.,  Secretary  to  Government  Public 
Works  Department. 

Uhirersitj/  UaU. — This  fine  building 
is  in  the  decorated  early  French  style 
of  the  loth  century.  The  hall  is  104  ft. 
long,  44  ft.  broad,  and  68  ft.  high  to  the 
apex  of  the  groined  ceiling,  wil^  a  semi- 
circular apse  of  38  ft.  diameter,  sepa- 
rated from  the  Hall  by  a  grand  arch. 
The  front  corridor  is  11  ft.  broad,  the 
side  corridors  are  8  ft.  A  gallery,  8  ft. 
1)i*oad,  on  handsome  cast-iron  brackets, 
passes  round  three  sides  of  the  Hall. 
There  are  painted  glass  windows, 
which  have  an  excellent '  effect,  and 
are  also  most  useful  in  tempering 
the  fierceness  of  the  Indian  sun.  At 
first  the  hall  was  found  to  be  defec- 
tive ^in  point  of  acoustics,  but  im- 
provements liave  since  been  made,    A 


tablet  with  the  following  inscription 
is  placed  behind  the  Chancellor's 
Throne  : — 

The  Sir  K&u^ji  (Cowasjee)  Jaluingir  Hall  of 
the  Universitv  of  Bombay,  was  erected  trom 
designs  by  Sir  Gilbert  Scott,  R.A.,  F.S.A., 
F.R.I.B.A.,  and  sanctioned  by  the  Govern- 
ment of  Bomlmy  on  the  10th  January,  1869. 

The  work  was  commenced  on  ^e  Ist  of 
March.  1869.  H.E.  the  Right  Honorable  Sir 
Seymour  Vesey  Fitzgerald,  G.C.8.I.,  Chan- 
cellor; the  Rev.  John  Wilson,  D.D.,  F.R.8., 
Vice-Chancellor,  and  was  completed  on  the 
:Ust  of  December,  1874  ;  H.E.  the  Honorable 
Sir  Philip  Edmond  Wodehouse,  K.G.B.,  Chan- 
cellor; the  Honorable  James  Gibbs,  C.S.,  Vice- 
Chancellor. 

The  work  was  carried  out  under  the  imme- 
diate orders  of  Lieut.-Col.  J.  A.  Fuller,  R.E., 
ftom  March  1869  to  May  1871 ;  J.  H.  E.  Hart, 
M.Inst.C.E.,  Irom  May  1871  to  November 
1872 ;  Col.  J.  A.  Fuller,  R.E.,  from  Novem- 
ber 1872  to  December  1874;  Rio  Sd^ib 
Makund  Ramchandra  being  Assistant-En^- 
ncer  in  charge.  Sir  K&u^i  (Cowai^ee)  Jahdngir, 
K.C.S.I.,  contributed  Rs.  100,000.  Estimate 
as  sanctioned,  Rs.  4,15,S04;  actual  cost, 
Rs.  3,791,389. 

Colonel  M.  K.  Kennedy,  R.E., 

Secretary  to  Government  P.W.D. 

The  Secretariate  is  443J  ft.  long, 
with  two  wings  81  ft.  long,  the  ends 
of  which  form  three  sides  of  an  oc- 
tagon. The  basement  contains  the 
printing-rooms,  and  is  16  ft.  high. 
The  first  fioor  is  20  ft.  high,  and  here 
are  the<  Council  Hall,  Committee 
Rooms,  Private  Rooms  for  the  Go- 
vernor and  Members  of  Council,  and 
the  Offices  of  the  Revenue  Depart- 
ment. The  2nd  floor  is  15  ft.  high, 
and  contains  the  Offices  of  the 
Judicial  and  Military  Departments. 
On  the  third  floor,  which  is  14  ft. 
high,  are  the  Offices  of  the  Public 
Works  and  Railway  Departments. 
The  style  is  Venetian  Gothic,  and 
the  designer  was  Col.  Wilkins,  R.E. 
The  pillars  are  moulded  Kurla  cut 
stone.  The  small  corridor  shafts,  the 
capitals,  and  cornices  are  of  Hem- 
nagar  stone,  a  superior  silicious  white 
sandstone.  The  corridor  arches  on 
the  ground  floor  are  alternately  of 
blue  basalt  and  Porbandar  stone. 
Those  on  the  flrst  floor  are  of  red 
basalt  and  Porbandar  stone  alter- 
nately. The  carving  is  by  native 
ariists,  and  is  excellent.  The  en- 
trance-hall and  principal  staircase  are 
very  fine.    The  staircase  is  lighted  by 


118 


Bomhfiy  City. 


Sect.  II. 


the  great  window  in  a  single  arcb, 
90  ft.  high,  over  which  is  the  tower, 
which  rises  to  170  ft.  At  the  entrance 
are  the  arms  of  Sir  B.  Frere  and  Sir 
S.  Fitzgerald.  There  is  also  a  very 
handsome  armoire  made  of  teak,  in- 
laid with  black  wood,  aU  done  by 
natives.  The  Council  Chamber  is 
50  ft.  long  by  40  ft.  broad,  and  the 
table  is  very  handsome.  There  are 
chairs  for  the  fourteen  members  of 
the  Legislative  Council.  The  Go- 
vernor's chair  is  distinguished  by  a 
high  back.  The  Library  is  a  fine 
room,  and  the  retiring  rooms  are  re- 
plete with  every  comfort.  In  the  hall 
is  a  tablet  with  the  following  inscrip- 
tion :— 

This  building  for  the  Offices  of  the  Oovem- 
ment  of  Bombay  was  erected  from  the  designs 
submitted  on  the  29th  of  September,  1865,  by 
Colonel  (then  C5aptain)  H.  S.  Clair  Wilkius, 
R.E.,  A.D.C.  to  the  Queen;  H.E.  the  Honor- 
able Sir  Bartle  Frere,  G.C.S.I.,  K.C.B., 
Governor  and  President  in  Council,  and 
sanctioned  by  the  Right  Honorable  Sir 
Charles  Wood,  Bart.,  G.C.B.,  Her  Ma^jesty's 
Secretary  of  State  in  Council,  on  the  10th  of 
June,  1866. 

The  work  was  commenced  on  the  16th  of 
April,  1867.  H.E.  the  Right  Honorable  Sir 
William  Robert  Seymour  Vesey  Fitzgerald, 
G.C.B.L,  Governor  and  President  in  Council; 
and  was  completed  on  the  20th  of  March,  1874. 
H.E.  the  Honorable  Sir  Philip  Edmond  Wode- 
house,  E.C.B.,  Governor  and  President  in 
Council. 

Tlie  work  was  carried  out  under  the  imme- 
diate orders  of  Capt.  C.  W.  Pinch,  R.E.,  from 
April  1867  to  November  1867;  Lieut. -Col.  J. 
A.  Fuller,  R.E.,  from  November  1867  to  May 
1871;  J.  H.  E.  Hart,  M.Iust.C.E.,  from  May 
1871  to  November  1872;  CoL  J.  A.  Fuller, 
R.E.,  from  November  1872  to  March  1874; 
Mr.  Wasudew  Bdpujl  Kanitker,  Assistant- 
Engineer,  being  in  charge. 

Estimate  as  sanctioned,  Rs.  12,80,731;  actual 
cost,  Rs.  12,60,844. 

Colonel  M.  K.  Kennedy,  R.E., 
Secretary  to  Government  in  the  P.W.D.  ' 

Leaving  the  Secretariate,  and  turn- ; 
ing  to  the  left  for  about  250  yds.,  the 
traveller  will  arrive  at  the  Sailorx' 
Ilomej  which  is  270  ft.  long,  and  55  ft. 
broad.  It  has  two  wings,  that  on  the 
N.  side  being  114  ft.  long  and  58  ft. 
broad,  and  that  on  the  S.  side  58  ft. 
square.  There  is  accommodation  for 
20  officers,  58  seamen,  a  superinten- 
dent and  assistant  superintendent, 
and  20  servants.  It  is  stated  tliat  in 
case  of  emergency  the  building  could 


contain  100  inmates.  Officers  have 
separate  and  superior  quarters.  Each 
man  pays  14  dn4s  a  day,  for  which  he 
gets  brejEiikfast  at  8*30  A.M.,  dinner  at 
1*30  P.M.,  tea,  with  hot  meat,  at  6  p.m., 
and  supper.  If  men  fall  sick  they  are 
sent  to  the  Hospital,  as  there  is  no 
sick  room.  There  is  a  reading  room, 
35  ft.  by  30  ft.  ;  the  books  are  chiefly 
religious.  The  subscriptions  amount 
to  about  Ks.  3,600.  The  superinten- 
dent gets  Bs.  170  and  free  quarters, 
with  an  allowance  for  his  food.  There 
is  a  bar,  where  the  men  can  purchase 
liquor,  beer  or  wine.  The  walls  are 
thick  enough  to  bear  another  story. 
The  entrance-hall  and  principal  stair- 
case are  in  the  centre  of  the  building. 
The  hall  has  a  paneled  teak  ceiling. 
The  staircase  is  of  blue  stone,  with  an 
iron  railing  on  groined  arches.  The 
building  is  faced  with  blue  basalt,  and 
the  carved  cornices,  bands,  mouldings, 
&c.,  are  of  Porbandar  stone.  The 
caps  and  finely  carved  work  are  of 
Hemnagar  stone.  The  arching  is  of 
Kurla  stone,  blue  basalt,  and  Hemna- 
gar stone,  and  the  flooring  is  of  as- 
phalte.  The  roof  is  of  Taylor's  tiles 
over  teak  planking.  The  sculpture  in 
the  front  gable  representing  Neptune 
with  nymphs  and  sea-horses,  was  exe- 
cuted in  Bath  stone  by  Mr.  Bolton,  of 
Cheltenham.  His  late  Highness 
Khaiid6  Rdo  GAekwdd  gave  Rs.  200,000 
towards  the  cost  of  the  building,  to 
commemorate  the  Duke  of  Edin- 
burgh's visit,  and  the  foundation 
stone  was  laid  on  the  17th  of  March, 
1870,  by  the  Duke.  There  are  tablets 
in  the  Hall  vrith  the  following  inscrip- 
tions : — 

The  Sailors'  Home  was  erected  from  designs 
by  F.  W.  Stevens,  Assoc.  Inst.  C.E.,  and 
sanctioned  by  the  Government  of  23ombfty  on 
the  5tii  December,  1871. 

The  work  was  commenced  on  the  28th  of 
February,  1872,  and  was  completed  on  the  29th 
February  1876;  H.  R  the  Honorable  Sir  Ed- 
mond Philip  Wodehouse,  K.C.B.,  Governor 
and  President  in  Council. 

The  work  lyas  carried  out  under  tlie  imme- 
diate orders  of  J.  H.  E.  Hart,  M.I.C.E.,  from 
February  1872  to  November  1872;  Col.  J.  A. 
Fuller,  R.E.,  firom  November  1872  to  Feb- 
ruarj'  1876;  P.  W.  Stevens,  A.I.C.E.,  Execu- 
tive-Engineer in  charge.  Sftiram  Kharide" 
R4o,  overseer. 

H,H,  liliah^e  lUo  Gaekwd^,  G.C.SJ,,  con- 


Sect.  II. 


Tlie  Sailors^  Homey  etc. 


119 


tributed  Rs.  200,000.   Estimate  as  sanctioned, 
Kh.  3,68,565 ;  actual  cost,  Rs.  366,629. 
M^Jor-General  Kennedy,  R.E., 

Secretaiy  to  Oovemmeut  P.W.D. 

The  First  Stone 

of  this   building, 

erected  as  a  Home  for  the  Seamen  of  this 

Fort,  and  dedicated  by 

'His  Highness  Khaiid^  Rao  Oiekw&a 

as  a  perpetual  token  of  his  loyal  attachment 

To  H.   M.   QUEKN  ViCTOBIA, 

and  in  commemoration  of  the  auspicious 

arrival  in  Bombay  of 

H.R.H.  the  Duke  or  Edinburgh,  K.G., 

K.T.,G.C.M.G.,  G.C.S.I.,  P.N., 

Master  of  the  Corporation  of  Trinity  House, 

was  laid  by  His  Royal  Highness 

this  17th  day  of  March,  1870, 

The  Right  Honorable  W.  R.  Seymour 

V.  Fitzgerald 

being  Governor  of  Bombay. 

The  Sailors'  Home  adjoins  the 
Apollo  Bandar,  where  on  certain  days 
the  band  plays,  'and  where  the  UiU 
of  Bombay  resort  on  such  occasions. 
Should  it  be  evening  when  the  tra- 
veller has  finished  his  tour  of  the 
Public  Offices,  he  may  drive  to  the  end 
of  the  Bandar  and  enjoy  the  music 
and  the  breeze.  On  the  right-hand 
side,  near  the  end  of  the  Pier,  is  an 
excellent  Kestaurant.  Should  the 
band  be  playing  on  the  Esplanade,  a 
drive  of  a  few  hundred  yards  will 
take  him  to  the  Stand,  which  can  be 
seen  at  a  distance,  and  where  many 
carriages,  riders,  and  pedestrians  con- 
gregate. Where  the  Stand  has  been 
erected  there  was  in  the  old  time  the 


high,  led  np  to  by  steps.    The  Queen's 
dress  is  admirably  carved.  The  canopy 
above  makes  the  total   height  that 
given  above.    The  Eoyal  Arms  are  in 
&ont  of    the   pedestal,    and  in  the 
centre  of  the  canopy  is  the  Star  of 
India,  and  above  the  Rose  of  England 
and  Lotus  of  India,  with  the  mottoes, 
"  God  and  my  Right "  and  "  Heaven's 
Light  our  Guide."     The  capitals  of 
the  columns  and  the  plinths  are  orna- 
mented with  oak  and  ivy  leaves.    The 
panels  are  inscribed  in  4  languages. 
There  is  also  an  equestrian  statue  of 
the  Prince  of  Wales  in  bronze,  on  a 
gray  granite  pedestal,  just  at  the  back 
of  the  Secretariate.    It  was  cast  by 
Mr.  Behm,  and  cost  £11,000,  which 
was  paid  by  Sir  A.  Sassoon,  who  pre- 
sented  the    statue   to  the    city   of 
Bombay.     In  reaching   it  from  the 
Queen's   statue    the  Frere   Fountain 
will  be  passed.    For  this  fine  work 
the  Agri  -  horticultural   Society  sub- 
scribed   £2,700,  which    was  supple- 
mented  &om  the    Esplanade   Frere 
Fund,  so  as  to  defray  the  total  cost, 
of  £9000.    In  the  double  line  of  fine 
houses  which  extends  from  this  foun- 
tain to  the  S.  are   several  buildings 
of  interest  to  the  traveller.     On  the 
right  are  the  Sassoon  Mechanics'  In- 
stitute, the  Bombay  Club,   the   Na- 
tional Bank,  the  Comptoir  d  Escompte 
de  Paris,  Treacher's  Buildings.    The 


first  European  cemetery  established  in   Mechanics'  Institute  was  founded  by 


Bombay,  and  called  Mendham's  Point, 
from  the  first  individual  who  was 
buried  there.  A  drive  along  the  road 
to  where  the  road  to  the  Fort  and  that 
to  the  Public  Offices  bifurcate  will 
take  the  stranger  to  the  statue  of 
Queen  Victoria,  which  is  always  an 
object  of  great  interest  to  the  Indians. 
It  is  of  white  marble,  by  Noble,  and 
cost  Bs.  182,443,  including  part  cost  of 
erection  and  railing,  paid  by  Govern- 
ment, of  which  large  sum  Bs.  165,000 
was  given  by  H.  H.  the  late  Khaud^ 
Kdo  G&ekw&d.  The  statue  was  first 
uncovered  by  Lord  Northbrook  in  1872. 
This  fine  piece  of  sculpture  is  42  ft. 
high,  and  Her  Majesty  is  represented 
seated,  and  her  statue  in  that  position 
is  8  ft.  high.  Her  State  chair  is  placed  on 
an  octagonal  marble  platform  7  ft.  10  in« 


David  Sassoon  and  his  son  Sir  Albert, 
in  1870,  and  cost  £15,000.  Lec- 
tures are  delivered  and  prize  medals 
awarded.  Life  members  pay  Bs.  150, 
and  members  Bs.  6  per  quarter.  In 
the  entrance-ball  is  a  statue  of  David 
Sassoon,  a  remarkably  handsome  man, 
by  Woolner.  There  is  also  a  good 
Library.  Treacher's  Store  is  replete 
with  articles  of  all  kinds,  and  the 
wine  can  be  recommended.  The 
Bombay  Club  is  also  here.  The  en- 
trance subscription  is  Bs.  100,  and  the 
monthly  subscription  Bs.  6.  Sleeping 
rooms  may  be  had  for  Bs.  30  a  month. 
The  food  is  excellent,  and  equal  to  that 
supplied  by  the  Bykallah  Club.  On 
the  left  hand,  at  No.  3,  Bampart  Bow, 
is  the  office  of  the  P.  and  O.  Steam 
Navigation  Company.    On  the  same 


120 


Bombay  GUy, 


Sect.  II. 


side  are  also  Watson's  Store,  the  shop 
of  Favrc  Leubas,  the  best  watchmaker 
in  Bombay,  Bourne  and  Shepherd's 
excellent  Photographic  Office,  the 
Oriental  Bank  ;  and  farther  on,  the 
office  of  Messrs.  Sir  C.  Forbes  and 
Ca,  which  represents  the  oldest  and 
best  established  agency  in  Bombay. 

When  the  traveller  has  finished  this 
round,  he  will  probably  think  he  has 
done  enough  for  one  day.  On  the 
visit  of  the  Prince  of  Wales,  the 
buildings  which  have  been  described 
above  were  brilliantly  illuminated,  and 
it  was  universally  acknowledged  that 
even  at  the  most  superb  f^tes  on  the 
Continent  of  Europe  nothing  so  mag- 
nificent  had  been  witnessed. 

Second  Day. — The  next  day  will  be 
well  spent  in  visiting  the  Cathedral, 
Arthur  Crawford  Markets,  Elphinstone 
Circle,  the  Town  Hall  and  Mint,  the 
Custom  House  and  Dockyards,  the 
Cotton  Screws,  the  Sassoon  Dock,  the 
Memorial  Church  at  Koldba,  and  the 
Lighthouse. 

Tke  Markets, — The  best  time  for 
visiting  the  Markets  is  before  break- 
fast, when  the  meat  and  fish  markets 
are  thronged.  The  buildings  stand  in 
Market  Boad,  which  is  approached 
from  Hornby  Row.  The  first  thing 
to  be  done  is  to  ascend  the  Clock 
Tower,,  128  ft.  high,  whence  there  is  a 
magnificent  view.  These  Markets,  the 
finest  in  the  world,  were  founded  by 
Mr.  Arthur  Crawford,  C.S.,  who  was 
Municipal  Codimissioner  from  July, 
1865,  to  Nov.  1871.  This  able  officer 
got  the  Slaughter  Housesj  which  at 
the  commencement  of  his  term  of 
office  were  near  the  market,  removed 
to  Bandora  in  Salsette,  where  are  large 
sheds  well  supplied  with  water,  the 
sheep  sheds  being  separated  from  those 
for  cattle.  The  meat  is  sent  oft  by 
special  trains,  which  reach  Bori  Ban- 
dar station  at  4  a.m.  The  markets 
cover  a  site  of  72,000  yards,  which 
was  given  by  Groyemment.  Mr.  W. 
Emerson,  who  designed  Treacher's 
Buildings,  planned  the  fVuit  and  Vege- 
table Markets.  There  is  a  Central 
Hall,  surmounted  by  the  Clock  Tower, 
with  3  principal  arched  gateways.  A 
cplumn    of   polished    granite,   o|i    a 


pediment  of  blue  basalt,  divides  each 
gateway.  In  the  Central  Hall  is  a 
drinking-fountain,  given  by  Sir  K&iisji 
Jahdngir  Readymoney.  To  the  right 
is  a  wing,  150  ft.  by  100  ft,,  in  which 
are  fruit  and  flowers,  and  on  the  left 
is  another  wing,  350  ft.  by  100  ft.,  for 
spices  and  vegetables.  The  central 
part,  with  the  gateway,  covers  16,000 
sq.  ft.  The  whole  area  occupied  is 
56,000  sq.  ft.,  with  a  double  iron  roof 
of  50  ft.  span,  resting  on  iron  pillai*6. 
The  height  is  51^  ft.,  and  the  ground 
is  paved  with  fiag-stones  from  Caith- 
ness. The  stalls  in  which  the  leaves 
of  the  Piper  betel  are  sold  should  be 
looked  at.  These  leaves  are  called 
pdn^  and  the  betel-nut  is  called 
*updri.  The  leaves  are  spread  with 
lime,  and  the  fruit  of  the  Areca  palm 
is  wrapped  in  them.  These  leaves  are 
chewed  by  the  natives,  and  make  the 
lips  and  the  saliva  red  and  the  teeth 
black.  The  chief  plantations  of  betel 
are  at  Jabalptir.  There  are  many 
kinds  oi  plantains,  but  the  best  arc 
short,  thick,  and  yellow.  The  best 
oranges  are  those  from  Nagpi!ir,  and 
the  best  grapes  are  from  Auran- 
g&b4d.  The  black  grape,  called 
Habshi,  is  the  most  delicious,  and  the 
best  white  grape  is  the  SdhibL  The 
mangoes  come  in  in  May,  and  arc 
amongst  the  finest  fruit  in  the  world. 
The  l^  are  from  Mazag&on,  and  2  or 
3  iced  form  a  delicious  adjunct  for 
breakfast.  The  Pompelmooie,  as  the 
English  call  it,  but  properly  Papar- 
mdtf  or,  in  Mard^hi,  PapoMos^  the 
Citrtts  deeu7nana,ia  particularly  fine  iu 
Bombay,  very  cooling  and  wholesome, 
but  somewhat  astringent.  The  Bom- 
bay onions  are  famous.  The  Beef 
Market  is  of  iron.  The  paving-stones 
were  brought  from  Yorkshire.  The 
Fish  Market  ought  to  be  separate,  but 
is  at  present  at  the  end  of  the  Mutton 
Market.  The  turtles  come  from  Ka- 
r^hl  in  Sindh.  The  oysters  ai*e  of 
moderate  size  and  well  flavoured. 
The  Palla  fish,  generally  about  2  ft. 
long,  the  salmon  of  India,  though  its 
flesh  is  light  coloured,  is  excellent, 
but  has  many  troublesome  bones, 
and  sometimes  does  not  agree  with 
strangers.    The  best  f|sh  of  all  |s  the 


Sect.  11. 


The  Town  Hall. 


121 


Pomflet,  or  Pomfret,  called  Sargutali^ 
the  black  kind  being  called  Haltvd. 
This  is  a  flat  fish,  about  the  size 
of  a  large  flounder,  but  better  than 
the  turbot.  The  best  pomflet  are 
caught  at  VirAwal,  and  are  very  cheap 
and  wholesome.  The  flounders,  Surma  ^ 
with  projecting  knobs,  are  not  equal 
to  the  English  fish  of  the  same  name. 
The  Bhui  Machchhiy  or  mullet,  are 
fairly  good.  The  Guard-fish,  Ddtah^ 
long  and  very  thin,  are  excellent,  but 
the  flesh  has  a  greenish  colour.  The 
B&mHl,  called  by  the  English  JBovi- 
melo,  is  a  glutinous  fish,  very  nice 
when  fresh,  and  much  used  by  the 
natives  when  salted.  Besides  these, 
there  are  the  Singdrdj  or  cat-fish,  the 
Tarwdi'f  or  sword-fish,  the  Gol^  a  large 
coarse  fish,  and  many  others  ;  but,  ex- 
cept those  mentioned  above,  there  are 
none  desemng  commendation.  Near 
the  fountain  with  its  beautiful  shrubs, 
are  seats  for  loungers,  which  are  gene- 
rally filled.  There  is  also  a  Coffee 
House,  where  servants  congregate,  and 
which  clears  Es.  1,200  a  year.  On 
the  S.  side  is  the  Poultry  Market, 
where  fowls,  ducks,  turkeys,  snipes, 
curlew,  teal,  and  fiorican  may  be 
purchased  ;  the  last  excellent.  This 
market  cost  over  eleven  hundred  thou- 
sand rupees.  The  crowd  in  the  Meat 
and  Fish  Markets  is  dense,  and  the 
hubbub  deafening.  There  is  another 
market,  called  the  Nul  Bdz&r,  between 
Parell  and  Duncan  Hoad,  which  cost 
Ks.  137,000.  There  are  also  the  Pedder 
Markets  at  Mazagdon,  in  the  middle 
of  a  garden. 

The  ToTvn  Halt — Turning  back 
from  the  Markets,  the  traveller  will 
go  next  to  the  Town  Hall.  Just  to 
the  N.  of  it  is  the  Mint,  and  to  the  "W. 
is  the  Cathedral.  The  Town  Hall  is 
a  handsome  building,  with  a  fine 
colonnade  in  front,  and  does  credit 
to  the  taste  of  its  designer.  Colonel 
Thomas  Cowper,  of  the  Bombay  En- 
gineers, afterwards  Chief  Engineer. 
It  was  commenced  in  1820,  took  15 
years  in  building,  and  cost  about 
£60,000,  an  expense  of  which  by  far 
the  larger  portion  was  defrayed  by 
the  E.  L  Company,  and  the  remamder 
/cleared  off  by  subscription,  and  a  for- 


tunate lottery  ticket,  taken  by  the  com- 
mittee for  the  erection  of  the  building, 
which  came  up  a  prize  of  £10,000.  The 
building  is  260  ft.  long  by  100  ft.  deep. 
The  pillars  in  front,  and  the  external 
character  of  the  edifice,  are  Doric ; 
the  character  of  the  interior  is  Corin- 
thian. It  is  a  curious  circumstance 
respecting  the  pillars,  that  it  was 
Colonel  Cowper's  intention  to  have 
them  in  pairs,  a  design  which  was 
opposed  on  the  ground  that  the 
crowded  appearance  would  mar  the 
effect.  The  pillars  were  prepared  in 
England,  at  the  expense  of  the  Com- 
pany, and  were  further  delivered  free 
of  charge  for  freight.  On  being 
landed  they  turned  out  so  much  more 
massive  than  Colonel  Cowper  in- 
tended, that  the  plan  of  having  them 
in  pairs  was,  by  what  all  must  now 
admit  to  have  been  a  fortunate  con- 
tretemps, necessarily  abandoned.  The 
supernumerary  columns  were,  by  com- 
mand of  the  then  Governor,  Lord 
Clare,  made  over  to  Bykallah  Church, 
then  in  course  of  erection. 

The  building  consists  of  a  ground 
floor,  in  which  the  rooms  are  rather 
low,  and  a  story  above  with  lofty 
apartments.  On  the  ground  floor  are 
various  public  offices  :  the  Medical 
Board,  in  which  are  four  very  hand- 
some Ionic  pillars,  copied  from  those 
of  an  admired  temple  on  the  banks 
of  the  Hyssus,  and  set  up  by  Col. 
Waddington,  formerly  chief  engineer  ; 
the  office  of  the  Military  Auditor 
General ;  the  meeting  room  of  H.  M. 
Justices  of  the  Peace  for  Bombay,  at 
the  S.  end  ;  the  Geographical  Society's 
Boom  ;  and  some  of  the  weightier 
curiosities  of  the  Asiatic  Society.  In 
the  upper  story  is  the  grand  As- 
sembly Room,  100  ft.  square,  in  which 
public  meetings  and  balls  are  held. 
The  organ  here  is  inscribed  : — 

Tliis  Organ, 

Built  by  Messrs.  Christopher  and  Stone, 

London, 

Was  the  gift  of 

The  Hon.  Sir  Albert  David  Sassoon,  Kt, 

C.S.I.,  Member  of  the  Legislative 

Council  of  Bombay, 

To  the  Town  Hall,  Bombay, 

As  a  Memorial  of  the  Visit  of 

H.R.H.  THE  Duke  of  Edinbubgif, 

March,  1870.    Erected  1S72. 


122 


Bombay  City* 


Sect  II. 


Leading  from  this  on  the  N.  are  the 
Library  and  Assembly  Boom  of  the 
Bombay  Asiatic  Society  ;  the  subscrip- 
tion to  which  is  Bs.  75  a  year.    The 
Library,  which  was   founded  by  Sir 
James  Mackintosh,   is  well  selected, 
and  contains  about  100.000  volumes. 
A  stranger  can  have  gratuitous  access 
to  the  rooms  for  a  month,  by  an  order 
from  one  of  the  members  of  the  So- 
ciety.    On  this   side,  also,  is  a  room 
used  by  the  authorities  of  the  Edu- 
cational   Department.      On    the   S., 
from  the  Grand  Assembly  Boom,  are 
the  Levee  Booms  of  the  Governor  and. 
the  Commander-in-Chief  ;  the  Council 
Boom,  and   private    rooms  for  each 
Member  of  Council,  all  now  disused. 
In  the  S.  vestibule,  near  the  Council 
Boom,  is  the  statue  of  Mr.  Norris,  for 
many  years  a  distinguished  Secretary 
and  Member  of  Council,  whose  labours 
in  the  Judicial  Department  were  most 
useful  to  Government.     There  are  five 
other  statues  in  the  edifice,  of  men 
whose  memory  is  held  in  high  esteem 
by  the  inhabitants  of  Bombay.       Of 
these,  the  statue  of  Mountstuart  El- 
phiustone  occupies ^a;'  excellence  the 
place  of  honour  in  the  Grand  Assembly 
Boom.     The  statue  of  Sir  J.  Malcolm 
is  on  a  pedestal  at  the  head  of  the 
staircase  in  the  grand  vestibule,  and 
that  of  Sir  C.  Forbes  in  a  comer  near 
it^     At  the  bottom  of   the  staircase, 
which  is  of  stone  and  8  ft.  broad,  is 


the  fine  statue  of  Jagann&th  Shankar- 
seth — ^that  of  Sir  Jamshidji  Jijibh4i 
is  placed  on  the  opposite  side.  The 
«tatues  of  Elphingtone,  Malcolm,  and 
Sir  C.  Forbes,  are  all  by  Chantrey, 
and  in  his  best  style,  lliat  of  Lord 
Comwallis*  is  in  the  garden  of  the 
Elphinstone  Circle,  as  is  that  of  Mar- 
quess Wellesley,  by  Bacon,  which  cost 
5000  gs.,  under  a  cupola  ;  but  the 
Town  Hall  Committee  have  recom- 
mended its  removal  to  the  Town  Hall. 
It  deserves  especial  notice  that,  owing 
to  the  cupola,  which  protected  it  from 
the  weather,  the  statue  of  Lord  Com- 
wallis is  quite  uninjured,  and  almost 
as  fresh  as  when  it  left  tiie  sculptor's 
hands,  while  the  far  finer  statue  of  Lord 
Wellesley,  which  has  no  defence  against 
rain  and  storm,  is  greatly  disfigiued — 
the  features  being  almost  obliterated. 
This  ought  to  be  a  warning  against 
placing  marble  statues  in  future  at  the 
mercy  of  the  weather  in  India. 

The  Council  Boom  contains  pictures 
of  B^ji  B4o  Peshw^,  whose  adopted 
son,  Njin4  Dhundu  Pant,  will  be  ever 
infamous  as  the  author  of  the  massacre 
at  Kinhpiir  (Cawnpore) ;  of  BAji  BAo's 
celebrated  minister,  Nan4  Farnavls  ; 
and  of  Mahdddjl  Sindhia.  All  three 
paintings  are  by  Mr.  Wales,  whose 
daughter  married  Sir  C.  Malet,  some 
time  Besident  at  Pun4.  In  the 
Asiatic  Society's  Library  are  busts  of 
Sir  James  Carnac  and  Sir  J.  Mackin- 


"'  Tlie  following  Is  the  inscriiition  on  the 
pedestal  of  this  statue : — 

This  Memorial  is  consecrated 

By  the  British  inhabitants  of  the  Fi*esideucy  of 

Bombay, 

To  the  Name  and  Character  of 

CHARLES  MARQUIS  CORNWALLIS,  K.G., 

Governor-General  of  India; 
Wlio  resigned  iu  Qh^zipilr,  in  the  Province  of 

Banaras, 

On  the  5th  October,  1805, 

A  life  dedicated  to  the  service  of  his  King  and 

Country; 

But  more  especially  devoted. 

In  its  regretted  close. 

To  the  restoration  of  peace  in  India, 

And  to  the  promotion  of  the  best  interests 

Of  the  East  India  Company. 

Inflexible  and  steady  courage, 
A  sacred  fidelity  in  Political  trust, 

Purity  and  singleness  of  heart, 
A  temper  tiie  mirror  of  that  purity. 


A  reflective  and  well  disciplined  Judgment 

In  the  most  arduous  couflicts, 

A  dignified  simplicity  ot  manners. 

And  the  most  elevated  sense  of  honor. 

Every  public  Virtue  and  Spirit, 

Every  gentle  and  graceful  aifection. 

Made  him  universally 

Admired, 

Revered, 

And  beloved ; 

The  omameut  of  his  country  and  of  the  age, 

A  model  to  posterity. 

John  Bacon,  Junior,  F.A.S.,  Scalptor,LoiLdon. 

MDCCCXI. 

This  Inscription  was  probably  written  by 
Sir  J.  Mackintosh,  who  took  an  active  x>art  in 
the  arrangements  for  the  erection  of  the  statue. 
A  letter  from  him  to  Flaxman  on  the  subject 
will  be  found  in  his  Life,  voL  i.  p.  265.  Sir 
James  wrote  the  sermon  which  was  preached 
by  the  Senior  Chaplain  on  the  occasion  of  Lord 
Comwallis'  death. 


Sect.  II. 


Tlie  Mint— -The  Cathedral. 


123 


toRh,  that  of  Sir  James  Camac  by 
Chantrey.  The  Geographical  So- 
ciety's Room  contains  pictures  of  Sir 
A.  Bumes,  and  Sir  C.  Malcolm  and 
rjiptain  Boss,  the  two  first  Presidents 
of  the  Society;  as  also  a  very  fine 
collection  of  maps.  Asnong  details, 
that  part  of  the  Town  Hall  which 
deserves  the  greatest  praise  is  the 
elliptical  staircase  on  the  K.  side, 
with  the  tesselated  floor  in  the  yesti- 
bule  adjoining.  The  execution  of 
these  is  admirable,  and  reflects  great 
credit  on  Major-General  Wadding- 
ton,  the  officer  of  engineers  under 
whose  directions  they  were  executed. 
There  is  another  name  which  must 
not  be  passed  over  in  noticing  the 
Town  Hall.  Augustino,  of  Portuguese 
descent,  showed  extraordinary  talent 
in  the  plans  he  submitted ;  and 
played  an  important  though  a  subordi- 
nate rdle  in  the  erection  of  the  edifice. 
Tlw  Mint  is  contiguous  to  the 
Town  Hall,  but  stands  further  back, 
having  a  tank  in  front  of  it.  On  the 
stairs  is  a  stone  with  this  inscription  :— 

The  Hint  was  designed  and  constructed 
by  Major  John  Hawkins,  Bombay  Engineers. 
It  was  commenced  in  1824  and  completed 
1829. 

The  foundation  stone  was  laid  on  the 
Ist  of  January,  1824,  and  it  was  in 
working  order  in  December,  1827.  It 
is  a  plain  building,  with  an  Ionic  por- 
tico. It  has  been  erected,  however, 
on  a  spot  which  was  for  many  years 
the  place  where  all  the  refuse  of  the 
Fort  was  cast.  It  was  then  called 
Modi  Bay,  and  the  object  in  casting 
the  rubbish  there  was  to  recover  the 
ground  from  the  sea.  But  when  it 
was  decided  that  the  Mint  should  be 
built  upon  it,  it  became  necessary  to 
clear  away  masses  which  had  been  for 
years  accumulating,  in  order  to  lay 
the  foundations.  The  sum  expended 
in  this  work  was  large,  and  the  cost 
of  the  Mint  fell  but  little  short  of  the 
more  splendid  building  adjoining,  the 
Town  Hall.  The  architect.  Major 
Hawkins,  a  Bombay  officer,  with 
Colonel  Forbes,  of  the  Bengal  Engi- 
neers, was  sent  to  England  by  Go- 
vernment to  study  in  the  office  of  Boul- 
ton  and  Watt.    At  this  Mint,  150,000 


rupees  can  be  coined  in  one  day.  Eight 
hrori  of  rupees  were  coined  in  1879,  and 
about  35  Idkhs  a  month  have  been  coined 
in  1880.  We  read  that  authority  was 
granted  to  the  Company  by  the  Crown 
to  establish  a  mint  so  early  as  1676  ; 
but  it  does  not  appear  when  first,  or 
to  what  extent,  the  Company  availed 
themselves  of  this  privilege.  In  the 
Bullion  Boom  there  are  sometimes 
from  £100,000  to  £200,000  silver  in 
London  bars,  weighing  80  lbs.  each,  and 
S.  Francisco  bars,  weighing  100  lbs. 
Gold  is  not  coined,  the  metal  not 
being  obtainable.  But  there  are  Mints 
at  Calcutta,  Baroda,  Haidardb&d  in  the 
Dakhan,  Travankor,  Srinagar,  Kachh» 
and  Indik.  In  June,  1875,  a  Kachh 
coin  was  struck  worth  about  13  Bs. 
Observe  a  fine  balance  here,  which 
can  weigh  700  lbs.  at  a  time  and  indi- 
cate a  \  grain  weight.  It  was  made 
by  Graves,  and  cost  £176.  Copper 
and  silver  are  coined  in  alternate 
months.  The  copper-plates,  after  tho 
pice  have  been  punched  out  of  them, 
are  called  Seissile,  and  are  full  of 
round  holes.  They  are  kept  for  alloy- 
ing silver.  Gold  and  silver  melt  at 
1800'  Fahrenheit,  lead  at  600^  The 
sweepings  are  crushed  by  stone  rollers 
weighing  4  tons,  and  the  silver  is  got 
by  litharge.  A  tile  of  copper  weighs 
60  lbs.  There  are  2  steam  engines  of 
40-horse  power,  with  wheels  of  24  ft. 
diameter.  Forty  specimens  of  false 
coins,  are  exhibited,  one  of  which  has 
been  a  good  coin,  but  all  the  silver 
has  been  scooped  out  and  lead  sub- 
stituted. These  coins  have  been  col- 
lected since  Sept.,  1872. 

TJve  Cathedral  church  of  St.  Thomas^ 
stands  in  the  Ifort,  close  to  the  Green. 
It  was  built  as  a  garrison  church  in 
1718,  and  made  a  cathedral  on  the 
establishment  of  the  See  of  Bombay, 
in  1833,  on  which  occasion  the  only 
change  in  the  structure  was  the  con- 
version of  the  low  belfry  into  a  high 
tower,  which  was  done  at  the  expense 
of  the  E.I.C.  The  plan  is  simple  ;  the 
columns  approach  the  Tusca,n,  the  roof 
is  vaulted,  and  the  whole  building  is 
of  stone.  The  body  of  the  church  is 
roomy,  but  there  is  no  gallery.  There 
are  some  monuments  here  which  deserve 


124 


Bombay  City, 


Sect  11. 


attention.  Of  these  the  one  of  greatest 
interest  is  by  Bacon  to  Goyemor  Jona- 
than Duncan,*  who  held  his  office  for 
the  unprecedented  period  of  16  years. 
The  monument  was  raised  by  public 
subscription,  and  represents  Mr.  Dun- 
can receiving  the  blessings  of  young 
Hindiis.  This  has  reference  to  his  glori- 
ous and  successful  efforts  in  suppress- 
ing infanticide  in  certain  districts  near 
Bandras,  and  afterwards  in  K^thiawdd, 
through  the  zealous  and  able  agency  of 
Colonel  Walker.  Mr.  Duncan  was  a 
warm  friend  of  the  natives  of  India, 
and  a  true  philanthropist ;  but  his  ser- 
vices were  butinadequately  appreciated 
by  Government. 

There  is  another  inscription  to  Mr. 
Duncan  under  the  Cathedral  pavement, 
as  follows  : — 

Underneath  are  deposited  the  Remains 
of  the 

HONORABLE    JONATHAN    DUNCAN, 

a  native  of  Montrose,  in  Scotland,  and 

Member  of  the  Civil  Establishment  of  Bengal, 

Who,  after  having  filled  with  distinguished 

merit  many  important  situations  under  that 

Presidency,  was  selected,  in  the  year  1795, 

for  the  ofilce  of  Governor  of  Bombay, 

which  he  held  until  the  11th  of  Au^st,  1811, 

when  Death  terminated  a  life  which  had 

been  devoted  to  the  P^motion  of  the  Public 

Good  and  the  Happiness  of  the  People 

placed  under  his  authority. 

Ob.  Ktat  57. 

His  body  is  buried  in  i)eace,  and  his  name 

liveth  for  evermore. 

There  is  also  a  slab  to  Elizabeth 
Bourchier,  wife  of  Bichard  Bourchier, 
Governor  of  Bombay.  She  died  22nd 
of  August,  1756.  Other  inscriptions  are 


to  Sir  James  Dewar,  Chief  Justice,  who 
died  A.D.  1830 ;  and  to  James  Joseph 
Sparrow,  Esq.,  Member  of  Council, 
died  October  2nd,  1829  ;  to  the  Hon. 
Sir  Charles  Harcourt  Chambers,  Senior 
Puisne  Judge,  died  October  13th,  1828. 
There  is  a  tablet  to  George  Dick, 
Governor  of  Bombay,  who  died  1828, 
aged  78.  There  is  (dso  a  tablet  to  the 
E.I.C.'s  frigate  Cleopatra,  supposed 
to  have  foundered  off  the  coast  of  Ma- 
labar on  the  15th  of  April,  1847,  when 
nine  officers  and  1 42  men  perished :  and 
one  to  Sir  David  Pollock,  Chief  Justice 
of  Bombay,  who  died  May  22nd,  1847  ; 
and  another  to  Bear-Admiral  Ingle- 
field,  C.B.,  Naval  C.C,  who  died  Feb- 
ruary 23rd,  1848  ;  and  one  to  John 
Hutchings  Bellasis,  Esq.,  C.S.,  Collec- 
tor of  Bhanich,  and  son  of  Major 
General  John  Bellasis,  Commander  of 
the  Forces  at  Bombay,  who  died  May, 
1828.  At  the  8.B.  comer  of  the  Cathe- 
dral is  a  very  fine  white  marble  monu- 
ment to  the  Bight  Beverend  ITiomas 
Carr,  D.D.,  firat  bishop  of  Bombay. 
The  figure  of  the  bishop  lies  at  full 
length  with  his  face  upward.  He  died 
on  the  6th  of  September,  1859.  The 
monument  is  by  Noble.  Next  to  this 
is  a  slab  to  the  memory  of  Sir  William 
Syer,  Ist  Recorder  of  Bombay,  who 
died  October  7th,  1802  ;  and  near  the 
pulpit  is  a  slab  to  the  wife  of  Bear 
Admiral  Sir  Bichard  King,  Bart.  K.C.B., 
who  died  March  24th,  1819.  There  are 
also  monuments  to  Catharine  Kirk- 
patrick,  who  died  January  27th,  1766 ; 


*  The  following  is  the  inscription  on  the 
handsome  and  tastaful  monument  to  Mr.  Dun- 
can in  the  Bombay  Cathedral  :— 

In  memory  of 

THE  HON'BLB  JONATHAN  DUNCAN, 

Oovemor  of  Bombay,  from  1795  to  1811. 

Recommended  to  that  high  office  by  his  talents 

and  integrity, 
In  the  discharge  of  various  important  duties 

in  Bengal  and  Baniras, 
His  purity  and  zeal  for  the  pubhc  good  were 

equally  conspicuous 
During  his  long  and  upright  administration  at 

this  Presidency. 
With  a  generous  disregard  of  personal  interest. 

His  private  life  was  adorned 

By  the  most  munificent  acts  of  charity  and 

friendship 

To  all  classes  of  the  community. 

To  the  natives  in  particular  he  was  a  friend  and 

protector. 


To  whom  they  looked  with  unbounded 

Confidence  and  never  appealed  in  vain. 

He  was  bom  at  Wardhouse,  in  the  county  of 

Foriar  in  Scotland, 

On  the  Ist  of  May,  1766, 

Came  to  India  at  tlie  age  of  l<i :  and,  after  39 

years  of  uninterrupted  service. 

Died  at  this  place  on  11th  August,  ISll. 

Infanticide 

abolished 

in 

Baniiras  and  K&thiawd^. 

Several  of  tlie  British  inhabitants  of  Bombay, 

Justly  appreciating  his  distinguished  merits 

In  public  and  private  life. 

Have  raised  this  monument 

As  a  tribute  of  respect  and  esteem, 

MPccrxviT, 


Sect.  II. 


TJie  Cathedral, 


125 


and  to  Daniel  Seton,  Ideut.-Govemor 
of  Surat  Castle,  who  died  there  April 
17th,  1803  ;  and  to  Lieut.-Col.  Richard 
Cay,  wounded  by  a  rocket,  4th  of 
January,  1779,  in  the  expedition 
against  Fund.  Near  the  end  door  is  a 
slab  inscribed  to  Captain.  Sir  Bobert 
Oliver,  R.N.,  C.C.  of  the  Indian  Navy, 
who  died  August  5th,  1848.  Also  may 
be  mentioned  the  monument  to  Major 
General  John  Bellasis,  Colonel  of  the 
regiment  of  Artillery  and  Command- 
ing Officer  of  the  Forces,  who  died 
February  10th,  1808.  OvertheN.dooris 
a  Latin  inscription  to  Sir  Charles  Har- 
conrt  Chambers,  which  cannot  be  read 
without  an  opera  glass.  The  English 
inscription  to  the  same  Judge  has  been 
mentioned  above.  Admii*al  Sir  F. 
Maitland,  K.C.B.,  who  conveyed  Na- 
poleon I.  to  St.  Helena,  is  also  buried 
here.  His  monument  was  erected  by 
the  officers  of  the  Indian  Navy,  of 
which  he  was  C.C.  He  died  November 
r»Oth,  1839.  Under  the  figure  of  an 
angel  weeping  over  a  broken  wall  with 
a  cannon  projecting  from  the  left-hand 
corner,  is  the  following  inscription  : — 

POTTINQER. 
This  Monument,  erected  by  Public  Subscrip- 
tion, to  the  Memory  of 

MAJOR   ELDBED   POTTINGER,  C.B., 

of  the  Bombay  Regt  of  Artillery',  is  placed  in 
the  Cathedral  Church  of  Bombay  in  token  of 
the  Admiration  and  Re8])ect  in  which  his 
character  as  a  Soldier  and  conduct  as  a  Man 
are  held  by  his  Friends  in  this  Presidency. 

Mi^or  Pottinger's  successful  defence  of  Hirtf t, 
his  gallant  bearing  and  judicious  counsel 
throughout  the  eventful  period  of  the  British 
reverses  in  Afghanistan,  are  recorded  in  the 
Annals  of  his  Country,  and  need  no  eulogium 
here,  but  the  recollection  of  those  Services 
must  add  to  the  r^:ret  universally  felt,  that 
one  whose  early  course  gave  such  promise  of 
ftiture  eminence  and  distinction,  should  have 
found  a  premature  grave.  Compelled  by  long 
continued  exertion,  anxiety,  and  fatigue  in 
the  discharge  of  his  Public  Duty,  to  seek  a 
change  of  climate  for  the  recovery  of  his 
health,  Mt^or  Pottinger  was  returning  to 
England,  vift  China,  when  he  was  attacked  by 
a  malignant  Fever  at  Hong-Kong,  where  he 
died  on  the  IStli  of  Novemlier,  1843,  aged  32 
years. 

Another  very  interesting  monument 
is  the  one,  also  by  Bacon,  of  Captain 
Hardinge,  R.N.,  younger  brother  of 
Lord  Hardinge,  who  fell  in  capturing 
the  Piedm4)ittetej  a  ship  of  far  superior 
size.      The    Picdmontesc    had    been 


eminently  successful  in  taking  Eng- 
lish  merchant  ships,  and  on  one  occa- 
sion, when  she  made  a  prize  of  the 
Warren  Haatingt^  commanded  by 
Captain  Larkins,  the  French  first 
lieutenant,  M.  Moreau,  rendered  him- 
self infamously  notorious  by  stabbing 
the  captain  and  several  of  the  officers 
of  the  English  ship.  This  man,  when 
the  Piedinontese  struck  her  colours, 
blew  out  his  brains,  anticipating,  pro- 
bably, no  very  gentle  usage  from  the 
captors.  Captain  Hardinge's  ship, 
the  St,  Fiorenzo,  a  frigate  of  38  guns, 
miserably  undermanned,  sailed  from 
Point  de  Galle  on  Friday,  the  4th  of 
March,  1805,  and  sighted  on  that  day 
the  Piedmontcjtef  Captain  Epher,  of 
50  guns,  and  566  men,  of  whom,  how- 
ever, 200  were  Lascars.  He  gave 
chase,  and  exchanged  the  first  broad- 
side about  half -past  eleven  at  night. 
The  French  ship  then  got  away,  but 
next  day  the  action  was  renewed,  and 
the  English  frigate  being  terribly 
crippled  in  her  rigging,  the  French- 
man, though  a  worse  sailer,  got  away 
again.  Next  day,  the  Fioi'cnzo  camo 
up  with  her,  when,  after  a  contest  of 
one  hour  and  40  minutes,  the  Pied- 
montese  struck  her  colours.  The  French 
had  48  killed  and  112  wounded  ;  and 
the  English  but  13  killed  and  25 
wounded.  The  merchants  and  prin- 
cipal inhabitants  of  Bombay  presented 
a  vase,  worth  300  guineas,  to  the  father 
of  Captain  Hardinge,  a  sword  worth 
100  guineas  to  the  1st  Lieutenant, 
Dawson,  £500  to  the  crew  of  the 
Piorenzoj  and  erected  this  monument 
in  the  Cathedral,  at  a  cost  of  £2000. 

Opposite  Governor  Duncan's  monu- 
ment is  one  to  Stephen  Babington,  of 
the  Bombay  C.S.,  who  was  chosen  by 
Mr.  Elphinstone  to  revise  the  Judicial 
Code,  having  as  colleagues  Mr.  Ers- 
kine,  the  translator  of  ^'  Baber's  Me- 
moirs," and  Mr.  Norris.  The  figure 
is  by  Chahtrcy,  in  his  best  style.  Mr. 
Babington  is  represented  in  a  sitting 
posture,  holding  in  his  hands  a  book, 
the  "  Judicial  Code,"  which  he  revised. 
The  inscription  on  this  monument  is 
by  Sir  J.  Mackintosh,  and  is  justly 
reckoned  one  of  the  most  classical 
pieces  of  English  composition.    On  the 


126 


Bombay  City. 


Sect.  II. 


left,  going  up  to  the  chancel,  are  two 
monuments  erected  by  the  E.  I.  Com- 
pany,— one  to  Colonel  Dow,  killed  by 
a  rocket  at  the  capture  of  Thdna, 
and  the  other  to  Colonel  Campbell, 
who,  in  1783,  with  less  than  700 
Europeans,  and  with  only  2300 
native  soldiers,  defended  Mangalilir  for 
many  months  against  Tlpii,  who  had 
with  him  an  army  of  30,000  regular 
infantry,  an  immense  body  of  horse, 
said  to  have  been  60,000,  100  guns, 
and  upwards  of  1000  French.  Man- 
galik  was  in  the  end  surrendered,  but 
not  till  the  garrison  had  fed  on  rats, 
jackals,  and  every  sort  of  loathsome 
and  unwholesome  food,  and  till  Tipii 
had  sacrificed  half  his  army  (Mill, 
vol.  iv.,  p.  246).  In  the  chancel,  on 
the  left-hand  side,  is  the  tomb  of 
General  Camac,  who  was  Clive's 
second  in  command  at  the  battle  of 
Plassy,  and  who  won  independent 
laurels  in  many  other  fields.  He  died 
.at  a  very  advanced  age,  at  Mangaliir, 
having  retired  from  the  service,  and 
this  monument  was  erected  to  his 
memory  by  his  nephew,  Mr.  Rivett, 
Member  of  Council,  to  whom  he  be- 
queathed his  fortune,  and  who  was 
the  father  of  the  late  Sir  James  Rivett 
Camac,  Governor  of  Bombay.  There 
are  also  monuments  to  General  Bel- 
lasis.  Captain  Warden,  Mr.  Seton, 
Chief  of  Surat,  and  others.  To  General 
Bellasis,  Bombay  is  indebted  for  the 
Apollo  Bandar  and  the  road  through 
the  Flats,  called  after  his  name,  which 
useful  works  were  executed  under  his 
orders  by  a  multitude  of  the  people 
of  Surat,  driven  from  that  city  during 
a  famine.  The  fountain  in  front  of  the 
Cathedral  was  erected  by  Sir  Kdiisji 
Jahdnglr  Readymoney,  at  a  cost  of 
Rs.  7000.  A  large  chalice  and  cover, 
presented  by  Governor  Gerald  Aun- 
gier,  are  still  preserved.  They  have 
the  following  inscription  : — 

Hanc  Calicem 

£ucliarists&  sacram  esse  voluit 

Honorabilis  Giraldns 

Aungierus,  insulee  BombaiiB 

Gubcmator  ac  pro  rebus  Honombilis 

Anglonun  bocietatis  Indiois 

Orientalibus  Mercatorum  a^ntium  prai-ses 

niuBtris. 

Mttt  ChriBttanaa 

Anno  1676. 


Hie  Custom  Umae  is  a  large,  ugly 
old  building,  a  little  to  the  S.  of  the 
Town  Hall  and  Cathedral.  It  was  a 
Portuguese  barrack  in  1665,  and  then 
a  quarter  for  civilians.  Forbes  in  his 
"  Oriental  Memoirs  "  says  that  in  1770 
he  was  there  and  could  get  no  supper 
or  candles,  so  he  sat  on  the  roof 
reading  Shakespeare  by  moonlight. 
It  became  a  Custom  House  in  1802. 
Over  the  portico  of  the  entrance  is  a 
coat  of  arms,  with  the  arms  of  the 
E.  I.  C,  and  the  inscription  :  "Hon.  W. 
Ainslabie,  1714."  The  entrance  is 
always  thronged  with  natives.  The 
landing-place  E.  of  the  entrance  is 
called  the  Town  Bandar.  The  Dock- 
yard extends  hence  to  the  ApoUo 
Gate,  with  a  sea-face  of  nearly  700  yds. 
Between  the  Custom  House  and  the 
Mint  are  the  remains  of  the  Castle, 
covering  300  sq.  ft.  Only  the  walls 
facing  the  harbom*  remain.  A  flag- 
staff also  is  here,  from  which  signals 
are  made  to  ships.  There  is  also  a 
clock-tower,  where  a  time  signal  ball, 
connected  by  an  electric  wii*e  with  the 
Observatory,  falls  at  1  p.m. 

Tlie  Bochjard.^So  early  as  1673, 
the  East  India  Company  had  been 
compelled  to  build  ships  of  war  to 
protect  their  merchantmen  from  the 
attacks  of  the  Mardtha  and  Malabar 
pirates.  Surat,  however,  was  the 
chief  station  for  building  vessels,  and 
up  to  1735  there  were  no  docks  in 
existence  at  Bombay.  In  that  year  a 
vessel  was  built  at  Surat  for  the  Com- 
pany, and  an  oflScer  being  despatched 
from  Bombay  to  mspect  it,  he  was 
much  pleased  with  the  skill  and  in- 
telligence of  the  Pdrsi  foreman,  Lowjl 
NaushlrwAnji ;  and,  knowing  that  the 
Government  was  desirous  of  esta- 
blishing a  building-yard  at  Bombay, 
endeavoured  to  persuade  him  to  leave 
Surat  and  take  charge  of  it.  The 
Pars!,  however,  had  too  much  honesty 
to  accept  this  advantageous  offer  with- 
out permission  from  his  master  to 
whom  he  was  engaged.  On  its  being 
granted,  he  proceeded  to  Bombay, 
with  a  few  artificers,  and  selected  a 
site  for  the  Docks.  Next  year,  Lowji 
was  sent  to  the  N.  to  procure  timber, 
and   on    his  return    he    brought  his 


Sect.  II* 


The  Dockyard, 


127 


family  "with  him.  Prom  that  day  to 
this,  the  superintendence  of  the  Docks 
has  been  wholly  in  I/owji's  family,  or, 
as  it  is  veil  expressed  by  a  well-known 
writer,  "  The  history  of  the  Dockyard 
is  that  of  the  rise  of  a  respectable, 
honest,  and  hard-working  P4rsl 
family."  Up  to  this  time  uit  king*s 
ships  had  been  hove  down  for  repairs 
at  Hog  Island  ;  but  now  they  were  so 
frequently  brought  for  that  purpose  to 
the  Docks  that  it  became  necessary  to 
enlarge  the  yard.  This  was  done 
ibout  1767.  In  the  year  1771,  two 
grandsons  of  Lowjl — Framji  Mdnikjl 
and  Jamshldji  Balunanji — entered  the 
Dockyard ;  but  were  compelled  by 
their  grandfather  to  learn  their  pro 


74,  of  1767  tons,  at  an  expense,  in- 
cluding lower  masts  and  bowsprit,  of 
£60,762 ;  and  in  1812,  the  WelU^ley, 
74,  of  1745  tons,  at  a  cost  of  £56,003. 
In  1818,  the  Malabar^  74,  and  the 
SeHngapatam,  a  frigate  of  38  guns, 
were  built,  and  subsequently  many 
other  ships  of  war,  among  which  the 
Ocmges,  84,  the  Calcutta^  86,  and  the 
Midni,  of  86  guns,  may  be  particularly 
noticed.    All  these  vessels  were  made 
of  teak,  and  have  sufficiently  proved 
the  lasting  quality  of  that  wood.    It 
has  been  pronounced  by  persons  in- 
timately acquainted  with  the  subject, 
that  a  teak  ship  will  last  from  four  to 
five  times  as  long  as  one  of  English  oak. 
The  worm  will  not  eat  it,  and  the  oil  it 


fession  practically,  working  as  common   contains  protects  the  iron  clamps  and 


carpenters  at  12  rupees  a  month.    In 
1774,  Lowjl  died,  leaving  only  a  house 
and  a  sum  of  money  under   £3000. 
He  bequeathed,  however,  to  his  family, 
a  more  precious  legacy, — ^the  remem- 
brance and  prestige  of  his  character 
for  spotless  integrity.    MAnikji  suc- 
ceeded him   as   master-builder,  and 
Bahmanji  was  appointed  his  assistant, 
and  the  two  managed  the  Docks  with 
increased  success.   They  built  two  fine 
ships  of  900  tons,  and  the  men  of  war 
crippled  in  the  severe  actions  between 
Sir   Edward    Hughes   and   Admiral 
Suffrein   were   docked   at    Bombay. 
Bahmanji  died  in  1790,  in  debt,  and 
MAnikji  two  years  afterwards,  leaving 
but  a  scanty  sum  to  his  family.    Their 
sons    of    the   same    names — Framji 
Mdnikjl   and  Jamshidji  Bahmanji — 
succeeded  them.     Jamshidji  in  1802 
built  the  Crrnwallis  frigate  for  the 
East  India  Company,  and  his  success 
determined  the  Home  Government  to 
order  the  construction  of  ships  for  the 
royal  navy  at   Bombay.     At  first  it 
was  proposed  to  send  out  a  European 
builder ;  but  Jamshldji's  talents  being 
properly   represented,   he    was  per- 
mitted to  have  the  sole  supervision  as 
master  builder.     In  1805  the  Dock- 
yard was  enlarged ;  and  the  thorough- 
fare, which  till  then  had  been  open 
through  it,  was  closed.    On  the  23rd 
o£  June,  1810,  the- Mviidmy  74,  built 
entirely  by  F&ibIs,  was    launched, 
and   not  long  after  the  CormvatUs, 


bolts  from  rusting.    Thus  we  are  told 
that,  while  ships  in  the  Britidi  navy 
are  replaced  every  12  years,  teak  ships 
last  50  years  and  upwards.     Indeed, 
the  old  LoTvjl  Castle^  a  merchantman 
of  about  1000  tons,  is  known  to  have 
made  voyages  for  nearly  three-quarters 
of  a  century.    The  Dockyard  has  been 
of  late  years  much   enlarged.     The 
enclosure    contains  about  200  acres. 
There  are  five   Graving  Docks,  3  of 
which  together  make  one  large  dock, 
the  Bombay  Dock,  648  ft.  long,  67  ft! 
broad  at  top,  and.  34  ft.  at  bottom, 
and  with  21  ft.  perpendicular  depth  ; 
the  other  2  Graving  Docks  make  a 
single  dock,  550  ft.  long,  68  ft.  broad 
at  top,  and  46  at  bottom,  and  with 
26  ft.   perpendicular  depth.      There 
are    also    four    building    slips    op- 
posite the  Apollo  Pier,  and  on  the 
S.E.  side  of  the  enclosure.    The  work 
is    greatly  facilitated    by    a   steam 
engine,  which  pumps  out  the  water  in 
a  few  hours.    At  Bombay  alone,  two 
ships  of  the  line,  or  one  ship  and  two 
frigates,  can  be  finished  for  the  Eng- 
lish navy  every  18  months.    Bombay 
is  also  the  only  principal  settlement  iii 
India  where  the  rise  of  the  tide  is  suffi- 
cient to  permit  docks  on  a  large  scale. 
At  Bombay,  the  highest  spring  tides 
reach  to  17  ft. ;  but  the  usual  height  is 
14  ft.  From  the  Dockyard  the  traveller 
may  proceed  to  the  Cotton  Screws  at 
Koliba,  and  the  Sas^oon  Dock,  which 
has  been  purchased  by  Government. 


128 


Bombay  City. 


Sect.  II. 


TJts  Or-iginal  Cotton  Screws  were 
worked  by  West's  patent.  West  came 
to  India  in  1798,  to  set  up  the  hj- 
drostatic  presses  of  which  Mr.  Hen- 
Bhaw  was  promietor.  Through  the 
bigoted  opposition  of  the  merchants 
these  presses  failed,  and  were  broken 
up  and  sold  for  ballast,  though  thej 
cost  upwards  of  £20,000.  After  this, 
the  iron  screw  was  gradually  improved 
till  1806,  which  is  the  time  Hamilton 
speaks  of  when  he  says,  *'  At  Bombay, 
1500  lbs.  of  cotton  are  screwed  into 
50  ft.  or  one  ton ;  but  at  Calcutta,  7 
per  cent,  more  are  put.'*  He  adds, 
"The  cotton  screw  is  worked  by  a 
capstan,  to  each  bar  of  which  there 
are  30  men,  amounting,  in  the  whole, 
to  about  240  to  each  screw.  Hemp  is 
packed  in  the  same  manner ;  but  it 
requires  to  be  carefully  laid  in  the 
press,  for  the  fibres  are  liable  to  be 
broken  if  they  are  bent."  In  1819, 
Mr.  West  brought  his  geometrical 
press  into  work.  The  machine,  in  ap- 
pearance, resembles  in  some  measure 
a  pile  engine.  Like  it,  the  rammer 
slides  in  a  mortice  up  and  down  two 
strong  uprights,  which  are  laid  hold 
of  by  two  strong  iron  rods  attached  to 
the  capstan,  which  is  easily  worked 
by  a  man  to  each  bar.  The  process 
of  packing  is  completed  at  once,  and 
when  the  cotton  is  pressed  down  to 
the  proper  size,  the  machine,  by  an 
ingenious  contrivance,  stops,  the  doors 
fly  open,  and  the  lashing  of  the  bale 
commences.  The  bale  is  taken  out 
completely  finished,  and  the  press 
being  relieved  without  the  tedious 
process  attendant  on  a  screw,  the 
rammer  flies  up,  and  the  press  is 
ready  to  receive  cotton  for  another 
bale.  West's  press  effected  a  diminu- 
tion of  labour  and  expense,  in  com- 
parison with  the  old  screw,  in  the 
ratio  of  20  to  60.  For  a  history  of 
cotton  packing  in  Bombay,  see  the 
Asiatic  Jowmal  of  1819.  West's 
press  was,  till  lately,  close  to  the 
Apollo  Bandar  in  the  Fort,  and  is  now 
at  Eol4ba.  It  screws  bales  at  the  rate 
of  7^  minutes  per  bale,  from  the  time 
of  putting  in  cotton  until  the  men  stop 
turning,  and  half  a  minute  more  for. 
lashing  the  bale,  averaging  about  7  \ 


bales  ijer  hour.  There  axe  now  new 
screws  erected  by  a  company  at  Ko- 
Uba,  on  ground  recovered  from  the 
sea.  There  is  at  Eol4ba  also  a  new 
Wharfs  the  only  one  in  India  where 
a  ship  of  moderate  size  can  lie  along- 
side to  receive  cargo.  Between  the 
Apollo  Cotton  Screws  and  the  Post 
Office,  stands  the  office  of  the  Hydraulic 
Press  Cotton  Packing  Company.  It 
is  a  handsome  building  and  contains 
a  Brahma  Press,  with  eight  presses, 
each  worked  by  three  force  pumps, 
the  whole  moved  by  a  steam  engine  of 
60-horse  power. 

The  Sassoon  Dock, — ^This  is  a  wet 
dock  for  the  discharge  of  cargo,  which 
has  been  purchased  by  Grovemment. 
The  traveller  will  drive  straight  from 
the  Dockyard  to  Kol&ba,  where  the 
Sassoon  Dock  is.  This  is  the  first  wet 
dock  made  in  India,  and  has  the  ad- 
vantage that  the  goods  are  landed 
direct  on  the  quay  with  only  one  hand- 
ling, instead  of  being  put  into  barges 
and  so  carried  on  shore.  The  expense 
of  boats  and  claims  for  damage  are 
thus  avoided.  The  Bombay,  Baroda, 
and  C.  I.  Railway  runs  to  the  S.  of  the 
dock,  and  a  siding  is  carried  under  the 
very  warehouses,  so  that  in  the  mon- 
soon the  goods  are  not  wetted.  There 
is  also,  S.  of  the  dock,  a  warehouse  to 
keep  goods  from  the  rain,  350  ft.  long 
and  26  ft.  broad.  The  Bombay,  Baroda, 
and  C.  I.  Eailway  joins  the  G.  I.  P.  at 
Dadar,  so  that,  practically,  both  rail- 
ways join  the  docks.  The  Sassoon 
Dock  is  650  ft.  long  from  N.N.W.  to 
S.S.E.,  with  an  average  breadth  of  250 
ft.,  but  near  the  entrance  it  is  300  ft. 
broad.  The  depth  is  19  ft.  when  it  is 
high  water  at  neap  tides,  and  22  ft. 
when  it  is  high  water  at  spring  tides. 
The  Sill  is  the  place  where  the  gates 
shut,  and  a  channel  300  ft.  long  has 
been  dredged  out  up  to  it,  but  the 
water  falls  many  feet  at  low  tide.  To 
the  N.  of  the  dock  the  land  belongs  to 
the  Kol&ba  Press  and  Land  Company 
and  other  proprietors  ;  this  Sir  Albert 
Sassoon  intended  to  have  included  in 
his  dock,  which  would  have  given  it  8 
acres  instead  of  3i  ;  but  the  Eol4ba 
Company  would  not  join,  and  have  - 
built  2  cotton  mills  instead.   Grahame 


Sect.  II.     The  MemorUd  Church  of  St,  John  tlie  Evangelist.  129 


and  Co.  built  warehouses  of  brick  and 
iron,  without  any  wood,  on  the  ground 
belonging  to  the  dock,  and  paid  rent  for 
them.  These  buildings  can  hold  10,000 
bales  of  piece  goods.  To  the  S.  the 
land  belongs  to  the  Port  Trust,  and  is 
mere  fore-shore.  At  the  W.  end  of  the 
dock  are  5  warehouses,  of  which  the  3 
largest  measure  160  ft.  by  40,  and  the 
2  others  100  ft.  by  40  and  60  ft.  by  40 
respectively.  In  one  of  these  ware- 
houses are  6  cotton  presses,  which  are 
hydraulic,  and  exert  a  pressure  of  800 
tons  on  each  bale.  They  can  press 
from  125  to  150  bales  a  day.  A  bale 
contains  9}  cubic  ft.  and  weighs  441b8. 
per  cubic  ft.  A  bale  weighs  more  than 
deal,  but  less  than  teak,  of  the  same 
dimensions.  Government  made  Sir  A. 
Sassoon  pay  £10,000  for  the  land 
through  which  the  siding  passes,  and 
£8,000  for  land  taken  over  from  the 
Back  Bay  Beclamation  Company. 
The  rock  was  blasted  out  to  the  depth 
of  15  ft.,  and  1500  labourers  were  em- 
ployed each  day  for  3  years. 

It  may  be  mentioned  here  that  a 
bridge  is  crossed  between  the  main 
island  of  Bombay  and  KoUba,  and  has 
the  following  inscription  : — 

Bombay,  Baroda  and  Central  Railway. 

Wodehouse  Bridge. 

Erected  1875. 

His  Excellency  the  Honorable  Sir  Philip 

Edmond  Wodehouse,  K.C.B.,  G.C.S.I., 

Governor  of  Bombay. 

A  short  way  further  on,  on  the  right- 
hand  side  going  to  Koldba,  there  is  a 
convalescent  home  established  by  Mr. 
Marwangi  FrAmjl,  a  benevolent  PArsl 
gentleman,  whose  name  is  inscribed  on 
every  pillar  of  the  building. 

The  Memorial  Chv/rch  of  St.  John 
the  Uvangelist  at  Xoldba. — This  beau- 
tiful edifice  is  so  placed  as  to  attract 
the  eyes  of  all  who  approach  Bombay 
from  the  sea.  The  church  consists  of 
a  nave  and  aisles  138  ft.  long,  58  broad, 
and  65  high,  with  a  chancel  50  ft.  long 
and  27  wide,  and  a  tower  and  spire 
198  ft.  high.  As  in  the  great  church 
of  Antioch  in  early  ages,  and  in  St. 
Peter's  at  Bome,  the  altar  is  at  the  W. 
end.  The  effect  on  entering  is  good, 
owing  to  the  length  and  height  of  the 
building,  the  simplicity  of  the  archi- 

[^om&ay— 1880.J 


tecture,  and  the  *'  dim  religious  light" 
diffused  through  the  stained-glass  win- 
dows. The  roof  is  open,  of  varnished 
teak,  with  a  pitch  of  50  degrees.  The 
first  object  remarked  on  entering  is  the 
illuminated  metal  screen,  light,  and 
elegantly  designed,  and  surmounted  by 
a  gilt  cross.  It  stands  at  the  second 
bay  up  the  nave,  and  is  22  ft.  wide 
and  14  high.  Over  the  great  door  is  a 
triple  lancet  window  of  stained  glass, 
presented  by  a  lady  in  memory  of  her 
husband.  The  subject  of  the  centre 
window,  which  consists  of  medallions, 
is  the  earlier  incidents  in  the  life  of 
Our  Lord.  The  outer  windows  display 
the  Prophets  holding  scrolls  with  texts 
referring  to  the  Messiah.  Under  this 
window  and  on  either  side  of  the  door 
are  appropriate  texts.  S.  of  the  main  en- 
trance is  the  Baptistery,  with  a  triplet 
window  and  large  font.  This  beautiful 
window  was  erected  by  the  congrega- 
tion in  memory  of  their  Pastor,  the 
Rev.  Philip  Anderson.  Over  the  en- 
trance into  the  Baptistery  is  a  marblo 
slab,  inscribed : — 

la  Memory  of 

PHILIP    ANDERSON,    M.A., 

Chaplain  of  Colaba  for  Seven  Yeai's, 

Who  departed  this  life  on  the  13th  December, 

1857. 
In  the  42nd  year  of  his  age. 

In  life  his  people  loved  him, 
In  death  they  bless  his  memory,  and  pray 
That  they  together  with  him  may  attain 
The  Resurrection  unto  Eternal  Life. 

At  the  W.  end  of  the  N.  aisle  is  a 
triplet  window  of  stained  glass,  erected 
to  the  memory  of  General  David  Barr. 
In  the  W.  end  of  the  S.  aisle  is  the  fine 
organ  built  by  Holditch.  On  either 
side  are  21  lancet  windows,  the  upper 
part  of  which  is  filled  with  stained 
glass,  but  the  rest  with  Venetians.  All 
were  presented,  and  12  by  Mr.  Wailes, 
the  famed  stained  glass  manufacturer. 
In  either  aisle  are  the  following  de- 
signs, which  form  a  "  Via  Crucis  "  to 
the  altar : — 

South  aide. 

A  Lantern,  Sword,  Staves,  Hammer,  and 

Pincers. 

The  Cup. 

A  Bunch  of  Grapes. 

A  Sheaf  of  Wheat, 

Pelican  feeding  her  young. 


130 


Bombay  City, 


Sect.  11. 


North  aisle. 

I.  H.  S. 

The  Gannent,  Dice,  30  pieces  of  Silver. 

Scourges. 

Ladder  and  Cross. 

Sponge  and  Sp<Mr. 

The  Crown  of  Thorns. 

Agnus  Dei  I 

In  the  clerestory  are  30  lancet  win- 
dows, glazed  with  coloured  quarries. 
The  arch  of  the  chancel  is  65  ft.  high, 
and  at  its  base  a  stone  pulpit  and 
prayer  desk.  The  pulpit  given  by  a 
member  of  the  congregation,  the  desk 
a  memorial  with  the  following  inscrip- 
tion : — 

Erected  by  the  Officers  H.M.'s  28th  Regt., 
on  leaving  the  Country,  a.d.  1864. 
-f      In  Memory  of     -|- 
Lieut.  Higman.  Lieut.  Steward. 

Lieut.  McCormack.      Lieut.  Vaughan. 
Lieut.  Wade.  Assist. -Surg.  Brice. 

Lieut.  Irwin. 

Their  Brother  Officers,  who  have  died  since 
the  Regt.  landed  in  India,  a.d.  1857. 

The  handsome  brass  lectern  between 
the  pulpit  and  prayer  desk  was  also  a 
gift.  Other  gifts  were  a  crimson  velvet 
altar-cloth,  a  pair  of  handsome  brass 
altar  candlesticks,  made  in  the  School 
of  Art  at  Bombay,  and  a  library  of  Sa- 
cred Music  worth  £100.  Behind  the 
lectern  is  the  Litany  stool,  inscribed  in 
gold  letters,  "  A  Thank  Offering  from 
the  R.  W.  FusiUers,  A.D.  1869."  The 
choir  desks  are  supported  by  wrought- 
iron  stands,  illuminated,  and  made  in 
the  School  of  Art.  The  chancel  floor 
is  of  encaustic  tiles,  imported  from 
England.  On  either  side  the  chancel 
are  3  lancet  windows,  made  to  open 
and  close,  filled  with  glass  similar  to 
tiiat  in  the  clerestory  windows.  Be- 
neath them  are  placed  the  "  memorial 
marbles,"  of  alternate  colors  of  white, 
red,  yellow,  and  blue  ;  and  beneath 
them  there  runs  the  following  inscrip- 
tion, painted  in  mediseval  characters, 
on  a  blue  ground  : — 

This  Church  was  built  in  SCemory  of  the 
Officers  whose  names  are  written  above,  and 
of  the  Non-Commissioned  Officers  and  Private 
Soldiers,  too  many  to  be  recorded,  who  fell, 
mindful  of  their  duty,  by  sickness  or  by  the 
swoixl,  in  the  Campaigns  of  Sind  and  Afghan- 
istan, A.D.  1835-43. 

The  large  panels  between  the  mar- 
bles and  the  chancel  floor,  diapered 


and  gilt  with  gtars  and  fleurs-de-lis  on 
a  dark  chocolate  ground,  have  a  pleas- 
ing effect.  The  great  window  is  one 
of  Wailes'  best  works.  At  the  foot  of 
the  central  compartment  is  the  Offer- 
ing of  Isaac,  above  it  the  Crucifixion, 
and  above  that  again  Our  Lord  seated 
in  Majesty.  In  the  rest  of  the  window 
the  lowest  compartments  represent 
Joshua  passing  Jordan,  the  Fall  of 
Jericho,  Caleb  taking  possession  of 
Hebron,  and  David  returning  from 
the  defeat  of  Goliath.  Above  are  the 
writers  of  the  New  Testament.  The 
Rev.  George  Pigott,  when  chaplain 
of  KolAba,  first  proposed  to  build  a 
church  in  memory  of  those  that  fell  in 
the  first  Afghan  war.  On  the  25th  of 
March,  1843,  a  meeting  was  held  in 
the  Town  Hall,  with  the  Right  Rev. 
Daniel  Wilson,  Bishop  of  Calcutta,  in 
the  chair.  Mr.  Pigott's  proposal  was 
agreed  to,  and  it  was  resolved  that  a 
church  should  be  erected  at  KoUba,  in 
which  the  names  of  the  officers  and 
men  who  had  perished  in  the  Afghan 
campaign  should  be  recorded.  A  plan 
by  H.  Conybeare,  son  of  the  Dean  of 
Llandaff,  having  been  approved,  the 
first  stone  of  the  church  was  laid  on 
the  4th  of  December,  1847,  by  Sir  G. 
Clerk,  Governor.  In  February,  1850, 
Mr.  Pigott  died,  when  the  walls  had 
risen  only  16  ft.  He  was  chaplain  with 
the  Bombay  column  under  Lord  Keane 
in  the  advance  on  Edbul  in  1838.  He 
returned  in  1842,  and  was  made  chap- 
lain of  Koldba.  He  died  at  sea  on  his 
way  home  on  the  24th  of  February, 
1850.  On  the  chancel  pavement  in 
front  of  the  altar  is  an  illuminated 
metal  cross  let  into  a  polished  black 
marble  slab,  with  the  following  in- 
scription to  his  memory  : — 

In  Memoriam. 
REVDI.  GEORGII   PIGOTT,    M.A., 

Hi^jusce  Ecclesiaj  Conditoris ; 

Obdormivit  in  Jesu,  Febii.  a.d.  1860. 

Angliam  repetens  sub  undis  sepultus. 

^tatis  45. 

Mr.  Pigott's  successor  was  the  Rev. 
Philip  Aiiderson,  whose  "English  in 
Western  India"  is  well  known.  He 
exerted  himself  to  promote  the  build- 
ing of  the  Memorial  Church,  but,  like 
his  predecessor,  did  not  live  to  see  its 


Sect.  II. 


Koldba  Cemetery — Tlie  Ligkilumae. 


131 


completion.  He  died  on  the  13th  of 
December,  1857,  and  was  buried  in 
KoUba  cemetery.  The  Church  was 
consecrated  on  the  7th  of  January, 
1868,  by  the  Right  Rev.  John  Hard- 
ing, Bishop  of  Bombay.  H.M/s  28th 
regt.,  which  had  10  years  before  fur- 
nished the  Guard  of  Honour  at  the 
laying  of  the  foundation  stone,  again 
furnished  the  Guard  on  this  occasion. 
Up  to  1857,  Rs.  127,000  had  been  ex- 
pended on  the  building,  and  Rs.  66,000 
more  were  added  for  the  tower  and 
spire,  the  porch  and  the  memorial 
marble.  Besides  iJie  above  sums.  Sir 
KAiisji  Jahangir  Readymoney  sub- 
scribed Rs.  7500,  and  the  Government 
gave  Rs.  10,000  for  walling  in  the 
church  compound  and  adorning  it 
with  shrubs  and  trees.  In  the  com- 
pound is  a  Memorial  Cross,  erected  by 
the  officers  and  soldiers  of  H.M.'s  45th 
regt.,  in  memory  of  8  sergeants,  5  cor- 
porals, and  74  privates  belonging  to 
the  corps,  with  14  women  and  37  chil- 
dren, who  died  in  Kimach  and  Eo- 
l&ba  between  March,  1865,  and  Jan. 
1866.  The  style  of  the  church  is  Early 
English ;  the  walls  are  of  rabble,  faced 
with  coursed  KurU  stone,  which  is 
buif -coloured  basalt.  The  piers,  arches, 
coigns,  and  dressings  are  of  Porbandar 
stone,  very  like  the  Caen  stone  of  our 
English  churches.  The  names  on  the 
memorial  marbles  have  been  a  good 
deal  obliterated,  but  they  will  be  found 
correctly  given  in  a  work  that  is  to  be 
published  shortly,  called  *'  Churches 
and  Cemeteries  of  India."  The  chap- 
lain, the  Rev.  —  Maule,  has  printed  an 
interesting  pamphlet  at  the  Tirnet  of 
India  office,  Bombay,  respecting  this 
church,  from  which  this  account  has 
been  chiefly  extracted.  He  says : 
"  Such  then,  is  the  history  of  the  Co- 
lAba  church,— a  church  which  stands 
unrivalled  among  the  churches  of  the 
East — a  beacon  to  guide  men  haven- 
wards  and  heavenwards — a  church  es- 
sentially military  in  its  associations, 
a  national  monument  raised  to  the 
memory  of  thousands  of  brave  men 
who  have  died  in  their  country's 
cause." 

Koldba  Cemetery, — The  Cemetery  is 
beyond  the  church,  at  the  extreme 


point  of  EoMba,  It  is  tolerably  well 
kept,  but  rendered  dismal  by  having 
a  lunatic  asylum  adjoining  it  to  the 
W.,  and  in  walking  about  to  examine 
the  tombs,  the  cries  of  the  unhappy 
inmates  are  constantly  heard.  What 
the  effect  upon  the  lunatics  may  be  of 
their  close  propinquity  to  a  graveyard 
can  only  be  conjectured  I  In  this 
cemetery  a  very  great  number  of  offi- 
cers of  the  Royal  Navy  and  Merchant 
Service  are  buried.  The  Rev.  Philip 
Anderson  was  buried  here.  There  is 
also  a  large  squai*e  tomb  with  the 
names  of  2  officers,  which  marks  the 
centre  of  the  spot  where  the  bodies  of 
184  persons  drowned  in  the  wreck  of 
the  Cattlerea^h  were  buried.  The  road 
for  the  last  50  yards  down  to  the  door 
of  the  cemetery  is  extremely  steep  and 
difficult  for  a  heavy  carriage  to  ascend. 
The  following  notice  is  put  up  at  the 
gate  :  "  It  is  requested  that  all  per- 
sons who  visit  the  Cemetery  will  take 
care  not  to  tread  on  the  graves  of  the 
Christian  Dead."        ^ 

The  IA{ihthmise, — A  ridge,  or  cause- 
way, which  commences  a  little  S.  of 
the  cemetery,  and  is  3500  ft.  long, 
leads  to  the  Kew  or  Prong  Lighthouse 
from  the  Old  Lighthouse  extinguished 
1874.  This  ridge  is  dry  for  4  days 
before  and  4  days  after  full  moon.  A 
little  W.  of  the  old  lighthouse  is  a 
battery  of  9-in.  guns,  and  N.  of  it  are 
the  Lines  of  the  Artillery  and  a  Euro- 
pean regiment.  The  Prong  Light- 
house is  150  ft.  high,  with  w^s  17  ft. 
thick  at  the  lowest  story  and  2  ft.  at 
top.  The  internal  diameter  is  12  ft. 
all  the  way  up.  There  are  11  steps 
from  the  water  to  the  platform,  and 
then  26  steps,  1  foot  high,  to  the  1st 
room,  and  then  6  flights  of  18  steps 
each,  about  8  in.  high,  and  then  11 
steps  to  the  top.  The  revolving  gear 
has  to  be  wound  up  every  45  minutes, 
which  employs  2  men.  The  plain 
surface  of  the  dioptric  glass  alone 
shows  the  light.  The  wick  must  be 
fed  with  6  times  the  supply  of  oil. 
In  storms  the  waves  rise  50  ft.  up  the 
sides,  and  the  tower  vibrates.  Before 
this  lighthouse  was  built  dreadful 
shipwrecks  took  place  here,  and  many 
of  the  bodies  of  those  drowned  aro 

K  2 


132 


Bombay  City. 


Sect.  II. 


1 


interred  in  Koldba  Cemetery.  It  is 
interesting  to  watch  the  light  from 
the  shore  of  Back  Bay  as  it  flashes 
into  full  splendour  and  then  in  a  few 
seconds  fades  into  darkness.  The 
light  can  be  seen  to  the  distance  of 
18  m.,  and  beyond  the  lighthouse  the 
shoal  water  extends  for  a  mile.  It 
flashes  every  10  seconds.  It  cost 
£60,000.  There  are  in  the  lighthouse 
one  European  and  five  Indians.  There 
is  also  an  Observatory  at  KoUba.  It 
may  be  as  well  to  mention  here  the 
Kennery  Lighthouse,  which  is  12  m. 
to  the  S.  of  Bombay,  and  has  a  fixed 
first-class  cata-dioptric  light  in  a 
tower  161  ft.  above  high-water  mark. 
It  cost  about  2  lAkhs.  There  are  2 
32-pounders  on  the  island  for  signal- 
ing. The  word  is  a  corruption  of  a 
Mardtha  word.  The  foundation-stone 
was  laid  by  Sir  Bartle  Frere,  on  the 
19th  of  September,  1867,  and  the 
light  was  first  shown  on  June  Ist  fol- 
lowing. 

Catliollc  Cluipel. — On  the  next  day 
the  Catholic  Chapel  in  Meadows  Street 
may  be  visited.  It  is  the  first  that 
was  built  in  the  Fort,  and  dates  from 
the  beginning  of  last  century.  It  is 
worth  a  visit  in  order  to  see  the  Bread 
Fruit  Tree,  the  only  one  in  India, 
which  will  be  found  in  the  inner  quad- 
rangle. 

St.  Andrew's  Kirlt.  —  Not  far  off 
from  the  Catholic  Chapel  is  St.  An- 
drew's Kirk  in  Marine  Street.  It 
was  begun  in  1816,  and  finished  in 
1818.  In  1826  the  steeple  was  thrown 
down  by  lightning,  and  rebuilt  by 
John  Caldecott,  F.R.S.,  Astronomer  of 
Trivandaram  University. 

Alexandra  College  for  Pdrsi  Ladies. 

This  institution  is  in  KAiisjl  Patel 

Street  in  the  Fort.  It  was  founded  by 
Mr.  M&nikji  Khurshidjl,  who  is  well 
known  for  his  travels  in  Europe  and 
for  his  excellent  knowledge  of  Eng- 
lish. It  was  opened  in  1863,  and  for 
a  time  amalgamated  with  the  Female 
Normal  School,  when  Government 
made  a  grant  to  it  of  Rs.  3120  annu- 
ally. The  institutions  are  now  again 
separated,  and  Grovernment  has  with- 
drawn its  grant.  The  young  ladies 
lemain,  in  some  cases,  to  the  age  of 


24,  and  are  extremely  well  instructed 
in  history  and  geography,  and  the 
English  and  Gujar&ti  languages.  They 
also  embroider  and  do  needle-work 
exceedingly  well.  Persons  desirous  of 
visiting  the  institution  could  no  doubt 
obtain  permission  from  Mr.  Manikjl 
Khurshidjl,  who  lives  at  Kambhdla 
Hill. 

Police  Court. — This  is  in  Hornby 
Row,  facing  the  Esplanade.  The 
chief  magistrate  sits  in  rooms  on  the 
3rd  floor,  and  below  him,  on  the  2nd 
floor,  is  the  court  of  the  second  magis- 
trate, an  Indian  gentleman.  Visitors 
who  take  an  interest  in  such  matters 
may  hear  cases  tried  here.  The  3rd 
magistrate,  who  is  also  an  Indian  gen- 
tleman, holds  his  court  at  GirgAon. 

Sir  Jamshidji  Jijihhdi's  Pdrsi 
IJenrrolent  Institution  is  in  Ram- 
j  part  Road,  facing  the  Esplanade.  This 
institution  was  founded  in  1849,  by 
Sir  Jamshidji,  who,  with  Lady  Ava- 
bdl,  his  wife,  set  apart  for  the  purpose 

3  Idkhs  of  rupees  and  25  shares  in  the 
Bank  of  Bengal,  to  which  the  PArsl 
PanchAyat  added  35  shares  more. 
The  Government  of  India  are  the 
trustees,  and  pay  interest  at  6  per 
cent,  on  the  3  Idkhs.  The  income  is 
divided  into  400  shares,  of  which  180 
go  for  the  Boys'  and  Girls'  Schools  in 
Bombay,  70  for  those  in  Surat,  &c., 
and  150  for  charities  for  the  poor. 
There  are  14  classes  of  bovs  and  7 
classes  of  girls  in  Hornby  Row,  and 

4  classes  of  boys  and  7  classes  of  girls 
at  Dhobi  Taldo.  There  are  also  6 
classes  of  girls  in  Mamba  Devi.  In 
June,  1842,  a  number  of  European  and 
Indian  gentlemen  presented  an  ad- 
dress to  Sir  Jamshidji,  with  a  testi- 
monial of  the  value  of  £1500.  This 
address  was  signed  by  937  PArsl 
gentlemen.  Sir  Jamshidji,  in  reply, 
announced  his  intention  of  devoting 
the  whole  testimonial  and  a  dona- 
tion of  3  Idkhs  from  himself,  for 
educational  and  charitable  purposes. 
A  second  meeting  was  held  on  the 
24th  of  Jime,  1866,  to  present  Sir 
Jamshidji  with  a  testimonial  in  the 
form  of  a  statue  of  himself ;  and  in 
February,  1871,  it  was  determined  to 
erect  a  new  building  for  the  institu- 


Sect.  II.     Scliool  of  Design — New  Elphinstone  High  Sclvod,  133 


tion.     On  the  foundation-stone   was 
inscribed : — 

This  Chief  Comer-Stone  of  the 
Sir  Jamshidji  Jijibhdi  Piirsi  Benevolent 
Institution,  was  laid  by 
His  Excellency  the  Bight  Honourable 
Sir  William  Robert  Seymour  Vesey  Fitz- 
gerald, G.C.S. I.,  Governor  of  Bombay. 
21st  of  February,  1871.  Yezdijirdi,  1240. 

Happy  is  he  that  has  mercy  on  the  poor, 
And  he  that  giveth  to  the  poor  shall  not  lack. 

The  same  inscription  will  afterwards 
be  put  upon  the  stone  in  Pehlavl.  In 
the  cavity  of  the  stone  was  placed  a 
glass  jar,  containing  a  portrait  of  Sir 
Jamshidji  JijibhAi,  the  first  Baronet ; 
the  elevation  and  plan  of  the  new 
building,  a  history  of  the  institution, 
abridged, "  Times  of  India  Calendar," 
"The  PArsl  Calendar"  (A.Y.  1240), 
"The  GujarAti  Almanack,"  "The 
Bombay  Gazette,"  "The  Times  of 
India,"  Jam-1-Jamshid,  and  the  cur- 
rent coins — a  sovereign,  a  rupee,  \ 
rupee,  \  rupee,  2-dnd  piece,  1  And, 
4  ^nd,  ^  dnd,  and  a  pie.  The  build- 
ing has  3  lofty  stories,  and  7  class- 
rooms on  the  first  2  stories.  The  3rd 
story  has  a  grand  committee-room, 
80  ft.  from  N.  to  S.,  and  33  ft.  from  E. 
to  W. ,  with  a  verandah  of  the  same 
length  and  12  ft.  broad.  In  this  room 
is  a  portrait  of  Sir  Jamshidji  seated, 
with  a  letter  in  his  hand,  and  the  in- 
scription "  B.  Montclar,  1863."  This 
room  commands  a  fine  view  over  the 
Esplanade  and  Back  Bay.  To  the  S., 
close  by,  is  the  old  house  in  which 
Sir  Jamshidji  lived.  There  are  4  other 
rooms  in  the  3rd  story  used  for  storing 
books,  &c.  In  the  2nd  story,  besides 
the  class-rooms,  is  the  library.  The 
girls  are  in  a  separate  story  from  the 
boys — there  being  about  500  girls  and 
400  boys.  Mr.  Burgess,  the  late 
master,  who  is  now  Archaeologist  for 
Government,  got  Rs.  728  a  month  as 
principal ;  but  the  present  principal, 
who  has  14  assistants,  gets  only  Rs.  400. 
School  of  Design. — This  was  for  a 
long  time  carried  on  in  mere  sheds  on 
the  E.  side  of  the  Esplanade.  It  was  first 
opened  for  pupils  in  September,  1857, 
and  in  1877  a  handsome  new  building 
was  erected  near  the  Gokaldds  Hospital. 
Excellent  drawings  and  pictures  may 


be  seen  here.  In  1875,  a  picture  by  Mr. 
Griffiths,  of  a  native  woman  carrying  a 
water-pot,  was  exhibited,  the  price  of 
which  was  £400.  Good  pottery  is  made 
here,  and  also  arms,  such  as  axes,  daggers 
and  swords,  at  prices  from  16  to  60  rs. 
There  are  now  190  pupils,  who  pay  1 
rupee  monthly.  Those  who  wish  to 
obtain  the  art  certificate  qualifying 
them  as  teachers,  pay  Rs.  5. 

St,  Xavier's  College. — This  institu- 
tion grew  out  of  the  development  of  St. 
Mary's  Institution  and  the  European 
Roman  Catholic  Orphanage.  A  site 
for  the  College  near  the  W.  end  of 
Esplanade  Cross  Road  was  granted  by 
Government  in  1867.  The  funds  were 
supplied  chiefly  from  private  sources, 
but  Government  contributed  Rs.  61 ,368. 

Ke^v  Mphinstone  High  School. — This 
building  shuts  out  the  W.  face  of  St. 
Xavier's  College.  Sir  Albert  Sassoou 
was  the  founder,  as  mentioned  in  the 
following  inscription : — 

This  the  First  Stone  of  the 
Sassoon  Buildings  for  the  Elphiiuitone  High 

School, 
Towards  the  erection  of  which  one  lakh  and 

a  half  of  Ra.  was  contributed  by  the 

Honorable  Sir  Albert  Sassoon,  Kt.,  C.S.I. , 

was  laid  by 

H.E.  the  Right  Hon. 

Sir  W.  R.  Seymour  Vesey  Fitzoerali», 

G.C.S.I.,  P.C,  Governor  of  Bombay, 

on  the  3rd  day  of  May,  a.d.  1872. 

This  is  the  great  public  school  of 
Bombay.  It  is  the  school  department 
of  the  old  "  Elphinstone  Institution," 
and  retained  possession  of  the  original 
buildings  on  the  Esplanade  when  the 
College  department  was  separated  to 
form  the  Elphinstone  College. 

'•  The  object  of  this  school  is  to  fur- 
nish a  high-class  and  liberal  educa- 
tion up  to  the  standard  of  the  Uni- 
versity entrance  examination,  at  fees 
within  the  reach  of  the  middle-class 
people  of  Bombay  and  the  Mafa§§il. 
It  has  classes  for  the  study  of  English, 
Mardthl,  Gujardti,  Sanskrit,  Latin  and 
Persian.  It  is  divided  into  two  sideSy 
the  Hindii  and  PdrsI,  containing  about 
300  pupils  each.  The  staff  consists  of 
a  Principal,  Vice-Principal,  and  26 
Assistant-Masters  and  Tutors."  The 
length  of  the  building  is  452  ft.  There 
are  28  class-rooms,  measuring  30  in*^ 


134 


]ioml)ay  Citp. 


Sect  II. 


25  ft.,  and  4  masters'  rooms  of  smaller 
dimensions.  There  is  a  hall  on  the 
Ist  floor  measuring  62  x  36  ft.  and  35  ft. 
high.  Above  the  hall  is  the  Library 
53  X  23  ft.  The  building  was  designed 
by  G.  T.  Molecey.  In  flie  place  oppo- 
site the  St.  Mary  Schools  close  by  is  a 
Gas  Tower  with  fountains,  a  work  given 
by  the  late  Rustamji  Jamshid,  Esq. 

Goltaldds  Ifosjntul. — The  next  place 
to  visit  as  being  adjacent,  is  the  Go- 
kaldds  Hospital,  which  can  contain 
126  patients,  and  is  generally  full. 
Fault  is  found  with  the  style  of  the 
building,  the  outside  of  which  is,  never- 
theless, handsome  ;  but  internally  the 
arrangement  is  not  so  judicious  as  it 
might  have  been.  The  history  of  this 
hospital  is  rather  curious.  Mr.  Bus- 
tamjl  Jamshldjl  had  offered  to  give 
£15,000,  if  Government  would  give  a 
site  for  a  native  hospital,  and  contri- 
bute £10,000  more,  and  if  the  Munici- 
pally would  undertake  to  support  the 
Institution.  Then  came  the  monetary 
crisis  in  Bombay,  and  the  affair  would 
probably  have  been  suspended  indefi- 
nitely, had  not  Mr.  Arthur  Crawford, 
C.S.,  obtained  from  GokaldAs,  then  in 
his  last  illness,  a  cheque  for  £15,000, 
and  induced  Government  to  adhere  to 
their  former  intention.  The  value  of 
the  institution  is  now  acknowledged. 

JDfvdrltandth'g  Temple, — Close  to  the 
Esplanade  on  the  right-hand  side  of 
the  road  that  leads  to  Parell  and  a 
little  N.  of  the  Framjl  Katisji  Insti- 
tute, which  is  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  road,  is  a  new  temple  to  DwAr- 
kandth  in  Kalka  Devi.  It  bears  this 
inscription : — 

This  Temple  is  built  by  Sundardas,  son  of 
Thakur  Midha^U  Jathr^,  and  dedicated  to 

God   DwARKANATHjf, 

in  the  Year  of  Samvat,  1981,  Jeth  Sudh  8th, 

Friday,  June  10th,  1876. 

Entering  by  a  side  door  on  the  N. 
the  visitor  finds  himself  in  a  room  40  ft. 
sq.  with  a  silver  door  at  the  end  7  ft. 
high,  which  hides  from  view  the  prin- 
cipal idol.  There  are  many  images 
and  paintings  of  Kfi^l^n  and  B4dh4, 
his  favourite  mistress.  After  this  the 
traveller  may  proceed  through  the  im- 
mensely crowded,  bustling  and  noisy 
BsizAr  to  the  Pinjra  Pol. 


Pinjrd  Pol^  or  Infirmary  for  ani- 
mals. This  curious  institution  covers 
several  acres.  In  the  1st  division  are 
diseased  and  aged  cattle  on  the  right, 
and  horses,  monkeys,  and  a  porcupine 
on  the  left.  In  the  2nd  division  are 
goats,  sheep  and  asses.  In  the  3rd 
are  buffaloes,  and  in  the  4th  dogs, 
some  of  which  are  in  a  horrid  state  of 
mange.  The  animals  are  all  quiet 
enough  except  the  dogs,  who  keep  up 
a  considerable  noise.  This  place  is  in 
the  quarter  called  Bholeshwar,  "  Lord 
of  the  Simple,"  and  the  temple  of 
the  Deity  so  called,  a  form  of  Shiva, 
is  within  the  inclosure.  The  head 
Guru,  whose  name  is  Sawejl  Shri 
Charitarpradhdn,  is  a  learned  scholar, 
who  speaks  Sanskrit  well.  He  is  also 
the  author  of  several  works.  Among 
them  is  a  Prdk^it  Grammar.  It  is 
remarkable  that  the  Hindiis,  who  sup- 
port this  institution,  are  not  pecu- 
liarly humane  in  their  treatment  of 
animals. 

Hovse  of  Correction. — After  this, 
should  the  traveller  be  interested  in 
such  matters,  he  may  visit  the  House 
of  Correction,  which  is  the  principal 
prison  in  Bombay.  It  is  in  the  Clare 
Boad,  BykaUah,  and  contains  a  number 
of  Europeans,  sailors  who  refuse  to 
work  on  board  their  ships,  and  soldiers 
who  have  to  work  at  shot  drill.  They 
raise  a  12  lb.  shot  and  put  it  down  on 
the  ground,  to  be  raised  again,  and 
again  put  down,  without  resting. 
There  are  sometimes  between  80  and 
90  Europeans  in  the  jail,  and  there  is 
very  little  sickness  among  them. 

Tlw  WorlfJwuse  adjoins  the  jail, 
and  there  are  sometimes  as  many  as 
20  Europeans  in  it,  some  of  respectable 
families.  They  sleep  in  an  open  shed, 
and  are  permitted  to  go  out  and  try  to 
obtain  places.  It  may  be  mentioned 
that  in  the  jail  there  are  shower-baths 
for  the  prisoners.  There  is  a  Black 
Hole,  but  confinement  in  it  is  not  much 
dreaded,  for.  as  the  jailer  says,  it  is  the 
coolest  room  in  the  building. 

This  will  be  a  sufficient  tour  for  the 
3rd  day.  On  the  4th  day  the  traveller 
may  drive  to  the 

Elphinstone  College  in  BykaUah. 
This  Institution  arose  out  of  a  separa- 


Sect.  IL         Victoria  Gardens — Christ  Church,  Byhillah. 


135 


tion  in  the  year  1856  of  the  profes- 
sorial element  from  the  Elphinstone 
Institution,  which  then  became  a  high 
school.  The  Elphinstone  Institution 
was  founded  in  consequence  of  a  meet- 
ing on  the  22nd  of  August,  1827,  to 
consider  what  should  be  a  memorial 
to  the  Hon.  Mountstuart  Elphinstone 
on  resigning  the  Government  of  Bom- 
bay. Upwards  of  2  lAkhs  were  then 
collected  to  endow  professorships  in 
English,  and  the  Arts,  Sciences  and 
Literature  of  Europe.  This  sum  accu- 
mulated to  about  4  14khs  and  a  half, 
and  Grovernment  augments  the  interest 
by  an  annual  subscription  of  Bs. 
22,000.  In  1863  Sir  Kiliisjl  JahAnglr 
Beadymoney  gave  a  Ukh  to  build  the 
Elphinstone  College,  and  in  1864  added 
another  14kh.  On  the  20th  of  February, 
1871,  the  new  building  in  the  Parell 
Boad  was  opened.  There  are  16  senior 
scholarships,  and  29  junior  are  com- 
peted for  annually.  A  certain  number 
of  under-graduates  who  cannot  pay 
the  College  fee  are  admitted  free.  In 
1862  Sir  Alexander  Grant,  Bart.,  was 
Principal  of  the  College,  and  many 
distinguished  scholars  have  filled  Pro- 
fessorships, as,  for  instance,  Mirzd 
Qairat,  who  translated  Malcolm*s 
*'  History  of  Persia  "  into  Persian.  The 
grounds  of  the  College  are  not  well 
kept,  but  the  building,  which  is  in  the 
Mcdissval  style,  is  handsome.  In  front 
of  the  side  which  passes  E.S.E.  is  a 
tablet  with  this  inscription  : — 

The  Kili^if  Jah&ngfr  Buildings, 

for  the  use  of 

Elphinstone  College, 

were  erected  at  the  cost  of*  rupees,  of  which 

2  lakhs  were  contributed  by 

Mr.  KAtfsjf  JAHAsafR  Readvmoney,  C.S.I. 

Completed  March,  1870. 

It  would  have  been  better  had  this 

tablet  been  placed  over  the  principal 

entrance,  or  in  the  Library.    On  the 

ground-floor  are  lecture  rooms,  and  on 

the  1st  floor  the  library,  to  which  one 

ascends  by  40  steps.    Here,  too,  is  a 

room  for  the  Principal,  with  one  for 

the  Professors.    In  the  2nd  floor  are 

dormitories  for  the  resident  students, 

each  bed-room  being  shared  by  two 

persons.    The  E.  front  looks  partly  on 

the  Victoria  Gardens,  partly  on  an  un- 

*  Blank  in  the  inscription. 


sightly  piece  of  ground  where  grass  is 
stored.  The  W.  front  looks  on  the 
G.  I.  P.  Bailway,  and  beyond  it  on  the 
Flats.  The  following  places  may  then 
be  visited  in  succession. 

Victoria  Gardens  and  Museum. — 
In  front  of  this  handsome  building, 
which  stands  about  100  yds.  back  from 
the  road,  is  a  Clock  Tower,  erected  by 
Sir  Albert  Sassoon.  The  Museum  was 
first  in  the  Fort  Barracks,  Dr.  Buist 
being  the  first  Curator.  When  the 
Mutiny  of  1857  broke  out,  the  Com- 
mandant of  the  garrison  ordered  the 
collection  to  be  ejected,  but  Dr.  Bird- 
wood,  who  had  been  appointed  curator 
by  Lord  Elphinstone,  raised  a  sub- 
scription of  a  l&kh  and  built  this  Mu- 
seum. Sir  B.  Frere  laid  the  first  stone 
in  1862,  but  the  works  were  stopped 
in  1865.  Government  in  1868  under- 
took to  complete  the  edifice,  and  it 
was  opened  in  1871.  There  is  a  fine 
statue  of  Prince  Albert  here  by  Noble. 
The  Gardens  have  an  area  of  34  acres. 
On  the  W.  side  is  a  handsome  Tailing 
with  ornamental  gates;  on  the  other 
sides  the  Gardens  are  walled  in.  The 
grounds  are  prettily  laid  out  with 
lakes,  rustic  bridges,  and  mounds. 
On  the  E.  is  a  Deer  Park  with  black 
buck,  spotted  deer,  elks,  and  the  ante- 
lope picta.  The  beautiful  Bougaim 
villea  is  very  conspicuous  in  the  gar« 
dens.  On  the  extreme  E.  is  a  mena- 
gerie, with  tigers,  bears,  panthers,  and 
hundreds  of  guinea  pigs,  quails,  and 
other  birds.  The  band  plays  here  twice 
a  week,  and  it  is  a  great  resort  for  the 
citizens.  The  Municipality  keep  up 
the  gardens  at  a  cost  of  Bs.  10,000 
yearly,  and  employ  75  gardeners  and 
others. 

Christ  Church,  Byhallah.  —  This 
Church  was  consecrated  by  Bishop 
Wilson  in  1835.  It  holds  600  people. 
A  stained  glass  window  was  set  up  in 
1870,  to  the  memory  of  Mr.  Spencer 
Compton,  eldest  son  of  Sir  Herbert 
Compton,  Chief  Justice  of  Bombay, 
and  there  is  a  handsome  monument 
to  Sir  Bobert  Grant,  G.C.B.,  Governor 
of  Bombay,  who  died  at  Dapurl  near 
PunA,  on  the  9th  of  July,  1838.  There 
are  also  other  tombs  of  interest  and 
some  monumental  brasses. 


136 


Bombay  City* 


Sect.  II. 


Grant  Medical  College^  in  Parell 
Koad,  was  established  in  1845,  in  me- 
mory of  Sir  Robert  Grant,  Governor  of 
Bombay.  One  half  the  cost  was  paid 
by  Sir  Robert  Grant's  friends,  the  other 
half  by  Government.  The  Principal 
is  subordinate  to  the  Director  of  Public 
Instruction.  There  are  8  European 
Professors  and  1  Indian,  besides  4 
teachers,  who  lecture  in  MarAthl  and 
GujarAtl.  There  are  10  scholarships, 
besides  funds  for  medals.  In  the  class 
of  the  Professor  of  Materia  Medica 
there  are  sometimes  as  many  as  130 
students.  In  the  laboratory  Dr.  Gray 
analysed  the  poison  that  was  given 
to  Colonel  Phayro  at  Baroda.  The 
Museum  is  fuU  of  curious  things,  Ittsi 
naturcB,  snakes  and  other  reptiles. 
The  grounds  cover  2  acres,  and  are 
being  made  instructive  by  planting  in 
them  all  kinds  of  useful  trees  and 
shrubs.  There  are  some  seedlings  of 
the  Eucalyptus  which  promise  well. 
Observe  also  the  Babiil,  Mimosa  ara- 
hicaj  with  its  soft  yellow  flowers  ;  the 
Bhehdi  or  hibUomt,  with  a  bell-like 
yellow  flower,  introduced  by  the  Por- 
tuguese, which  is  useful  for  shade,  as 
it  grows  quickly  ;  the  gum-tree,  which 
bears  a  round  glutinous  fruit  the  size 
of  a  large  black  currant ;  also  the 
Causilana  Moricata,  a  resinous  tree  of 
the  fir  kind.  This  College  turns  out  a 
number  of  Indian  Physicians  and  Sur- 
geons not  inferior  to  European,  who 
are  gradually  overspreading  India,  and 
find  lucrative  employment  in  the  na- 
tive States.  The  knowledge  of  medi- 
cine thus  diflfused  is  one  of  the  greatest 
blessings  India  has  derived  from  Eng- 
land. 

Jamshidji  Hospital. — This  institu- 
tion adjoins  the  one  just  mentioned. 
It  has  Parell  Road  to  the  W.,  and  Ba- 
biila  Tank  Road  to  the  S.  The  build- 
ing consists  of  a  Middle  Row,  1  story 
high,  400  ft.  from  N.  to  S.,  and  2 
wings,  2  stories  high,  which  extend 
200  ft.  from  E.  to  W.  In  the  middle 
building  are  14  wards,  holding  14  to 
16  patients  each.  The  5e  ought  all  to 
be  paved  with  Minton  tiles,  as  earth 
absorbs  miasma.  The  Duke  of  Edin- 
burgh, at  Dr.  Hunter's  request,  de- 
frayed the  cost  of  paving  one,  which 


is  now  called  the  Edinbui'gh  Ward; 
and  H.H.  the  MahdrAjd  Holkar  volun- 
teered to  pay  for  paving  another.  The 
pavement  of  each  ward  cost  £120.  At 
Sir  Jamshidji's  request,  1  ward  has 
been  assigned  to  PArsls ;  in  the  others 
all  castes,  Br^hmans,  Dherhs,  and  Mu- 
^ammadans  are  found  together.  They 
get  their  food  from  separate  cooks  ; 
but  Pdrsls  and  Muhammadans  will 
take  it  from  a  Christian  cook,  pro- 
vided that  fowls,  &c.,  are  not  stran- 
gled, but  killed  in  the  Mu^ammadan 
fashion.  In  the  hall  is  a  statue  of  Sir 
Jamshidji,  a  copy  of  the  stone  one  in 
the  Town  Hall,  but  of  bronze.  The 
name  of  the  sculptor  is  not  on  the 
statue.  The  2nd  story  can  be  as- 
cended to  by  a  hydraulic  lift,  but  the 
pressure  is  so  slight  that  the  ascent 
takes  a  long  time.  Patients  are  taken 
up  in  this  way.  The  wards  in  the 
wings  are  all  tiled.  To  the  W.  of  this 
hospital  are  the  Ophthalmic  Hospital, 
the  Grant  College,  the  Hospital  for 
Incurables,  and  huts  for  contagious 
diseases,  such  as  small-pox  and  cholera. 
Disease  is  said  to  be  more  prevalent  in 
the  cold  weather  than  in  the  hot. 
There  are  46  in-door  patients,  and  166 
out-door.  About  150  cases  of  accidents 
from  machinery  in  the  mills  are 
brought  to  the  Jamshidji  Hospital 
every  year.  In  the  Obstetric  Hospital 
there  are  40  patients,  but  many  out- 
door patients.  This  building  is  incon- 
veniently small,  and  so  is  the  quarter 
for  infectious  diseases.  There  ought 
to  be  a  separate  hospital  for  such  cases 
on  high  ground,  with  cottages  of  refuge 
below  for  the  families  of  the  patients. 
This  is  one  of  the  greatest  wants  in 
Bombay. 

Jarnshidji  DJiarmsdld.  —  This  may 
be  next  visited,  as  it  is  not  very  far 
off.  There  are  about  200  small  rooms 
which  families  or  individuals  may 
occupy.  There  is  no  light  or  ventila- 
tion, except  by  tbe  door  and  a  square 
hole  in  the  roof  about  6  in.  sq.  In  a 
3rd  row  in  the  same  line,  but  separated 
by  a  path,  are  about  200  lepers, 
covered  with  blotches,  and  many  with 
their  toes  and  fingers  gone.  When  a 
room  is  vacated  by  these  unfortunates, 
it  is  very  often  occupied  forthwith  by 


Sect.  IL 


Girgdm  Cemeteries — Elphinstone  Doch 


137 


a  person  who  is  not  a  leper.  It  is  no 
wonder,  therefore,  that  there  are 
between  200  and  300  people  afldicted 
with  this  dreadful  disease  in  Bombay. 
Dr.  Vandyke  Carter,  who  had  charge 
of  this  Dharmsdla  in  1875,  is  the 
great  authority  on  the  subject  of  this 
disease,  and  could  give  any  informa- 
tion respecting  it.  He  is  for  stamping 
it  out  by  seclusion ;  but  at  present 
there  are,  according  to  the  census  of 
1872,  p.  215,  no  less  than  13,842  lepers 
in  the  Presidency.  Europeans  are 
subject  to  it,  and  there  are  generally 
one  or  two  such  cases  in  Bombay. 

The  Nul  Marltct. — This  supplies  a 
large  part  of  Bombay,  and  is  gene- 
rally immensely  crowded.  Men  and 
women  may  be  seen  purchasing  opium, 
and  the  women  admit  that  they  give 
it  to  their  infants. 

Scotch  Mhifion  Scliool. — On  return- 
ing from  these  places,  the  Mission 
School  at  Ambroli  may  be  visited.  It, 
and  the  church,  cost  £6000.  There  is 
a  tablet  to  the  memory  of  Mrs.  Wilson, 
wife  of  the  Rev.  Dr.  Wilson,  the  well- 
known  linguist  and  missionary,  in  the 
church,  with  an  inscription  in  English 
and  Marathl.  There  is  also  adjacent 
a  college  for  youths,  where  Sanskpt 
and  Persian  are  well  taught.  On  the 
way  back  to  the  Esplanade,  the  Gir- 
gdon  cemeteries  may  be  visited. 

Glrgdon  Cemeteries. — The  English 
cemetery,  which  is  to  the  W.,  is  very 
badly  kept.  Amongst  the  most  dis- 
tinguished persons  buried  here  is 
General  Kennedy.  His  tablet  is  thus 
inscribed  :- 

MAJOR-GENERAL  VANS    KENNEDY 

Died  on  the  29th  of  December,  1846, 

aged  63  years. 

Erected  to  his  Memory  in  token  of  regaixi 
for  his  Great  Talents  and  Attainments  and 
distinguished  Oriental  Scholarship  by  the 
Bombay  Branch  of  tlie  Royal  Asiatic  Society, 
of  which  he  was  successively  the  Secretary, 
President,  and  Honorary  President,  and  in 
the  inquiries  and  researches  of  which  he  ever 
manifested  the  deepest  interest. 

In  the  N.E.  corner  is  the  tomb  of 
Colonel  Foi"d,  who  commanded  the 
last  Peshwd's  Brigade,  which  mainly 
decided  the  defeat  of  that  Prince  at 
the  battle  of  Khirkl.  The  Peshwd  sent 
his  general,  Moro  Dikshat,  to  entreat 


Colonel  Ford  to  side  with  him  or  re- 
main neutral.  Colonel  Ford  refused  ; 
on  which  the  Mardthd  general  said 
that  he  would  take  care  of  the 
Englishman's  family  should  he  fall  in 
the  battle,  and  asked  that  he  would 
do  the  same  thing  for  him,  suppos- 
ing the  English  were  victors.  By  a 
curious  coincidence,  the  first  fire  of 
Colonel  Ford's  troops  killed  Moro 
Dikshat,  who  was  charging,  with  the 
Golden  Pennon  of  the  MarAthas  in 
his  hand,  at  the  head  of  15,000 
cavalry.  The  inscription  is  as  follows, 
on  the  N.  face  of  the  tall  white  tomb  : 

Sdcred  to  the  Memory  of 

LIEUTENANT-COLONEL  JOHN  FORD, 

C.B.,  of  tlie  Madras  Establishment, 

Who  departed  this  life  at  Bombay, 

on  the  2nd  day  of  Januarj',  1826, 

aged  46  years. 

About  the  oldest  epitaph  is  that  of 
Mrs.  Jane  Macquarie,  wife  of  Major 
Macquarie,  of  H.M.'s  77th,  daughter 
of  the  Chief  Justice  of  Antigua.  She 
died  July  loth,  1796.  To  the  E.  of 
this  cemetery  is  the  SmashAn,  where 
the  Hindii  corpses  are  burned.  Euro- 
peans who  desire  to  see  the  operation 
are  allowed  to  enter.  To  the  S.E.  is 
the  Scotch  Cemetery,  now  closed, 
where  is  the  tomb  of  the  *  Rev,  Dr. 
Wilson,  mentioned  above. 

The  5th  day  may  be  spent  in  visit- 
ing the  vast  reclamation  works  on  the 
E.  shore  of  Bombay  Island,  from  the 
Custom  House  to  Sewrl  on  the  N. 
On  these  works  and  on  those  at  Ko- 
Idba  and  Back  Bay  5  millions  sterling 
have  been  expended.  The  traveller 
will  drive  along  Frere  Road  to  the 
Elphinstone  Dock. 

Eljihinstone  Boclt. — This  was  com- 
menced during  the  Prince  of  "Wales' 
visit  in  1875-6.  In  excavating  the 
ground  the  remains  of  a  submerged 
forest  were  found  at  a  depth  of 
about  10  ft.  About  100  trees,  from 
10  to  20  ft.  long,  were  exhumed  ;  the 
wood  is  red  and  veiy  hard.  Many 
shells  of  the  teredo  were  also  found 
imbedded  iu  the  wood.  Within  the 
shell  the  wood  was  entirely  gone. 
This  barnacle  is  veiy  destructive  in 
Bombay  Harbour,  and  sometimes  at- 
taches itself  in  such  numbers  to  the 


138 


'  Bomhay  City, 


Sect.  11. 


bottoms  of  Tcssels  as  to  take  off  more 
than  a  knot  from  their  speed.  The 
excavations  extend  over  30  acres, 
from  which  more  than  a  million  cubic 
yards  of  earth  have  been  removed. 
7,000  Kulis  were  employed  every  day 
at  the  works ;  the  men  getting  6  Ands 
a  day,  and  the  women  3.  Adjacent  to 
the  Docks  whole  streets  of  warehouses 
and  offices  have  sprung  up.  Continu- 
ing N.,  the  visitor  will  arrive,  after  a 
drive  of  3  m.,  at 

Mdzagdon^  where  are  tJie  Office  and 
Bochyard  of  the  P.  and  0,  Company. 
The  office  is  situated  in  the  Mazagdoii 
Dock  Road,  in  a  beautiful  garden  with 
a  profusion  of  flowering  shrubs.  The 
gent's  office  is  fitted  up  with  polished 
wood,  and  handsomely  furnished,  and 
looks  out  upon  beds  of  flowers.  The 
works  were  finished  in  1866.  The 
walls  of  the  enclosure  are  strongly 
built  of  rubble  stone,  faced  with  cut 
stone.  The  dockyard  covers  12  acres. 
There  are  iron  sheds  for  18,000  tons 
of  coal ;  but  sometimes  these  are  quite 
full,  and  several  thousand  more  tons 
are  stored  uncovered.  The  Dock,  which 
is  the  largest  in  Bombay,  except  the 
Elphinstone,  is  420  ft.  long,  and 
capable  of  receiving  vessels  drawing 
20  ft.  of  water.  On  its  left,  looking 
towards  the  pier,  is  the  Ice  Manufac- 
tory, where  are  2  machines  which  can 
make  31  tons  a  day.  There  is  a  hand- 
some tomb  here  to  the  late  Captain 
Henry,  who  was  killed  by  a  fall  from 
his  carriage.  He  was  agent  for  the 
P.  and  0.  Company,  and  universally 
respected.  Commodore  Hawkins,  who 
is  buried  in  the  Girgdon.  Cemetery, 
was  killed  by  a  similar  accident  near 
the  Dockyard  in  the  Fort.    Close  by  is 

St.  Peter'' s  Churchj 3IazagdonyWhich 
seats  about  300  people.  Here  is  a 
memorial  window  to  the  officers  and 
men  drowned  in  the  S.S.  Caniatw. 
Continuing  the  drive,  and  passing  Sir 
Albert  Sassoon's  fine  house,  the  tra- 
veller will  arrive  at  Parell. 

Oovernment  House  at  Parell  was  a 
Portuguese  place  of  worship  and  mo- 
nastery, confiscated  by  the  English 
Government,  on  account  of  the  traitor- 
ous conduct  of  the  Jesuits  in  1720. 
Governor  Hornby  was  the  first  who 


took  up  his  residence  there,  between 
1771-1780.  One  of  the  stones  of  the 
buUding  is  inscribed  :— 

This  built  by  the  direction  of 

Honourable  Hornby, 

1771. 

It  remained  in  statu  quo  till  the  ex- 
piration of  Sir  Evan  Nepean's  govern- 
ment.    When  that   Governor  quitted 
Bombay  in  1819,  he  left  a  minute  re- 
gretting that  he  had  been  compelled 
by  the  necessities  of  Government  to 
neglect  the  house  at  Parell.  To  supply 
the  required  accommodation,  Mr.  El- 
phinstone   built   the    right  and  left 
wings.     In  the  right  wing  are  the 
apartments  belonging  to  the  Governor 
and  his  family,  in  the  left  are  those 
appropriated  to  the  aides-de-camp  and 
staff.     The  public  rooms  are  in  the 
centre  facing  the  W.  The  dining  room 
below,  where  also  the  Governor  holds 
his  public  breakfasts,  is  86  ft.  long  by 
30  broad,  with  a  fine  verandah  on  three 
sides,  about  10  ft.  broad.    Above  the 
dining  room  is  a  drawing  room,  or  ball 
room,  of  corresponding    dimensions, 
with  a  similar  verandah.    The  veran- 
dah below  is  open,  and  that  above  is 
closed.    These  rooms  occupy  the  place 
of  the  old  Portuguese  chapel.    The 
altar  was  where  the  billiard  table  is 
now,  in  the  recess  at  the  end  of  the 
hall.    In  the  ball  room  is  a  full  length 
portrait  of  the  Marquess  Wellesley,  by 
Home,  an  artist  of  Calcutta.  The  like- 
ness is  good  and  the  painting  excel- 
lent. On  the  landing  place  of  the  very 
handsome  stone  staircase  is  a  valuable 
marble  bust  of  the  Great  Duke,  vTith. 
"P.Turnerelli  fecit,  181  o."    In  the  side 
room  or  corridor  to  the  ball  room,  are 
2  full-length  marble  figures  of  Lucretia 
and  Cleopatra.    For  the  memorials  of 
the  Duke  of  Wellington  and  his  bro- 
ther, under  the  former  of  whom  Mr, 
Elphinstone  served  as  Political  Assist- 
ant throughout  the  brilliant  campaign 
of  1803-4,  it  has  been  asserted  his  suc- 
cessors are  indebted  to  the    private 
liberality  of  Mr.   Elphinstone.     The 
garden  of  Parell  is  pretty,  and  has  at 
its  W.  extremity  a  tank,  and  on  its 
margin  a  noble  terrace,  which  rises 
about  10  ft.  above  the  water  and  the 
grounds.    It  is  here  that  visitors  of 


Sect.  II.         £afoped7t  Cemetery — Kurla  Cotton  Mill. 


139 


distinction  are  entertained  on  royal 
birthdays  and  other  festivals,  and  from 
this  spot  they  witness  the  display  of 
fireworks.  Toe  Prince  of  Wales  was 
received  by  Governor  Sir  Philip  Wode- 
house  at  Parell,  in  November,  1875  ;  Sir 
Richard  Temple  moved  to  the  Govern- 
ment House  at  Malabar  Hill,  where  the 
sea-breeze  blows  refreshingly.  Beyond 
the  corridor  in  which  are  the  marble 
statues  is  a  good  suite  of  rooms  for  a 
guest  of  distinction,  with  an  excellent 
bath  room.  In  fact,  all  the  bath  rooms 
in  the  house  are  good,  being  of  white 
stone  or  chunam,  with  pavements  of 
coloured  tiles  at  the  side.  At  the  end 
of  the  ball  room  is  what  is  called  the 
Darbdr  room.  Beyond  is  a  broad 
chunam  platform,  with  a  pretty  look- 
out on  the  garden.  Next  to  the  Dar- 
bAr  room  is  't  sitting  room,  with  a  por- 
trait of  Moantstuart  Elphinstone.  A 
bangld  in  the  garden  is  usually  occu- 
pied by  the  Governor's  doctor  when 
the  Governor  is  here.  From  the  S. 
corridor  one  can  descend  by  steps  out- 
side the  building  to  a  platform  in  the 
garden,  where  the  band  plays.  The 
ball  room  is  82  ft.  6  in.  long,  32  ft.  10 
broad,  and  27  ft.  high.  It  is  a  hand- 
some room  and  suitable  for  a  Govern- 
ment House.  In  it  is  a  fine  full-length 
portrait  of  the  Queen,  by  Sir  George 
Hayter,  inscribed  London,  1864.  On 
the  E.  of  the  ball  room  is  a  refresh- 
ment room,  sometimes  used  as  a  din- 
ing room.  Lord  Mayo  dined  there.  On 
the  next  story  are  bed  rooms  and  sit- 
ting rooms  for  the  military  secretary 
and  private  secretary,  and  on  the 
story  above  that  are  3  bed  rooms  and 
dressing  rooms,  and  a  sitting  room.  In 
all,  19  bed  rooms  can  be  made  avail- 
able. Below  the  drawing  room,  but 
not  on  the  ground  floor,  are  the  Go- 
vernor's bed  room  and  his  office  room, 
the  latter  very  good,  and  between 
them  is  the  private  secretary's  office. 
The  dining  room  ends  in  a  billiard 
room  looking  W.  towards  the  garden. 
In  the  garden  are  2  iron  arches 
with  a  creeper,  which  has  a  beauti- 
ful white  flower.  One  arch  fell  in 
1875,  and  the  creeper  was  cut  down 
almost  to  the  ground,  but  soon  reco- 
vered itself.    Just  before  the  2nd  arch 


is  a  circular  basin  with  a  small  foun- 
tain, in  which  is  a  plated  tube  imitat- 
ing a  flower  and  other  devices.  Beyond 
this  is  a  flight  of  steps  and  a  terrace, 
where  the  Governor  receives  at  his 
garden  parties.  The  grounds  are  pretty, 
but  there  are  numerous  snakes  of  the 
phursen  kind,  most  poisonous.  There 
are  also  many  damans^  a  serpent  which 
grows  to  9  ft.  and  is  incredibly  swift. 
The  mango  trees  are  particularly  fine, 
and  there  is  a  lovely  jessamine  with 
flowers  as  large  as  the  palm  of  one's 
hand. 

European  Cemetery  at  Parell, — ^This 
cemetery  was  formerly  a  Botanical 
Garden,  which  was  opened  by  Mr. 
Farish,  Member  of  Council,  in  1830. 
It  is  a  sheltered  spot  under  Flag  StaflE 
Hill,  with  pine  trees  on  either  side, 
and  was  turned  into  a  cemetery  about 
1867.  Remark  here  the  magnificent 
crimson  poinciana. 

Kurla  Cotton  Mill, — Should  the  tra- 
veller have  a  couple  of  hours  free,  and 
have  obtained  permission  to  visit  the 
Kurla  mill,  which  is  on  the  causeway 
between  Bombay  and  Salsette,  and  6 
m.  from  Parell,  he  may  now  drive  to 
the  Parell  Railway  Station,  which  is 
6  m.  from  KolAba,  and  close  to  Pa- 
rell Government  House,  from  which 
trains  go  to  Kurla  at  6.12  and  6.52 
A.M.,  and  1.22,  3.58,  and  5.22  P.M., 
arriving  in  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour. 
This  is  one  of  the  largest  cotton  mills 
in  the  world,  and  employs  3000  hands, 
of  whom  700  are  women  and  300  boys. 
The  rooms  are  760  ft.  long,  and  the 
temperature  is  about  90  deg.  There  is  a 
tower  80  ft.  high,  to  which  one  may 
ascend  for  the  view.  The  mill  opened 
about  1863  on  a  smaller  scale,  and  in 
1869  on  its  present  footing.  There  are 
large  lodging-houses  adjoining,  which 
can  accommodate  400  persons.  There 
are  also  salt  pans  close  by,  and  owing 
to  these,  the  spot  is  said  to  be  un- 
healthy in  November.  They  have  a 
fire  engine,  which  the  hands  work  very 
well.  The  management  is  good,  and 
the  mill  will  serve  as  a  specimen  of 
the  mill  industry  in  Bombay.  Re- 
mark to  the  S.E.  Sion  Hill,  a  place 
once  fortified  by  the  Portuguese. 

GovernmentHmise  atMalabarHill.  — 


140 


Bombay  City, 


Sect.  II. 


On  the  6th  day  the  traveller  may  drive 
from  his  hotel  to  Malabar  Hill.  If  he 
be  located  in  Watson's  Hotel,  or  any 
other  hotel  in  or  near  the  Fort,  his 
drive  will  be  a  pleasant  one  along  the 
sea-side  skirting  Back  Bay,  which,  on 
account  of  the  sea  breeze,  is  a  prefer- 
able road  to  that  through  the  hot  and 
crowded  bdzars.  At  about  3^  m.  from 
the  Cathedral,  the  road  begins  to  as- 
cend a  long  steep  hill,  whence  Govern- 
ment House  may  be  reached  by  one  of 
2  turnings  to  the  left.  The  S.  turning 
leads  through  iron  gates  down  a  rather 
steep  pitch  to  the  house  of  the  Gover- 
nor. At  the  iron  gate  there  is  a  notice 
that  no  person  will  be  admitted  except 
on  business.  The  Governor's  bangld 
consists  of  a  suite  of  rooms  only  one 
story  high,  and  of  moderate  dimen- 
sions. The  principal  banglA  to  which 
visitors  must  go  to  enter  their  names, 
is  also  only  of  one  story,  but  contains 
two  rooms,  a  dining  room  and  a  draw- 
ing room,  each  about  90  ft.  long  and 
40  broad,  with  a  verandah  surrounding 
them  16  ft.  broad.  You  ascend  to  these 
rooms  by  a  flight  of  20  steps,  and,  pass- 
ing through  the  verandah  where  the  vi- 
sitor's book  is  placed  on  the  left  hand, 
find  yourself  in  a  middle  room,  sepa- 
rated from  the  other  2  rooms  by  ex- 
tremely handsome  carved  black  wood 
doors,  ornamented  with  gilt  work  in  a 
very  tasteful  fashion.  The  verandah 
on  the  E.  side  commands  a  fine  view 
over  Back  Bay  to  Koldba  and  the  Es- 
planade, where  the  Government  Offices 
are  an  imposing  feature.  At  night,  all 
this  part  is  lighted  up  with  myriads  of 
lamps,  and  the  effect  is  extremely 
pleasing.  There  are  several  detached 
banglAs  for  the  Governor's  staff  and 
for  guests,  all  being  from  80  to  100  ft. 
above  the  sea.  Below  them  is  a  bat- 
tery, which  would  sweep  the  sea  ap- 
proach. The  water,  however,  is  too 
shallow  for  anything  but  boats,  and  is 
besides  full  of  rocks.  Not  far  off  to 
the  N.  a  large  ship,  the  Diamond^  was 
wrecked,  and  80  passengers  were 
drowned.  The  stables  of  the  Governor 
are  very  commodious,  and  generally 
contain  from  20  to  30  fine  horses. 
They  are  to  the  N.  of  the  other  build- 
ings, and  in  front  of  them  is  a  very 


curious  row  of  trees,  the  branches  of 
which  have  been  turned  by  the  mon- 
soon winds  to  the  B.  at  about  10  ft. 
from  the  ground,  as  if  they  had  been 
carefully  trained  in  that  direction.  A 
few  words  may  be  said  as  to  the  his- 
tory of  the  Governor's  residence  here. 
Up  to  the  time  of  Sir  Evan  Nepean, 
the  Governor  had  resided  either  at  the 
Fort  or  at  Parell.  At  Malabar  Point 
there  were  only  Sergeants'  quarters 
near  the  Flagstaff.  In  1813,  Sir  Evan, 
feeling  the  cool  sea  breeze  to  be  indis- 
pensable to  his  health,  built  an  addi- 
tional room  to  the  Sergeants'  quarters. 
He  also  somewhat  improved  the  ac- 
cess by  the  back  road  then  in  exist- 
ence. In  1819-20,  Mr.  Elphinstone 
added  a  public  breakfast  room,  and  a 
detached  sleeping  baogla  on  a  small 
scale.  At  that  time  there  was  not  a 
single  house  on  the  Malabar  Hill  and 
Breach  Candy,  now  so  covered  with 
villas,  except  that  called  Tlw  Retreat^ 
and  one  other.  But  the  presence  of 
the  Governor  soon  attracted  various 
individuals  to  settle  in  villas  near  the 
spot ;  and  the  colonization  of  this  part 
of  the  island  of  Bombay  may  be  said 
to  date  from  1820.  In  1828  Sir  John 
Malcolm  gave  up  for  public  offices  the 
Government  House  in  the  Fort  and 
the  Secretary's  office  in  Apollo  Street, 
and  considerably  enlarging  the  resi- 
dence at  Malabar  Point,  regularly  con- 
stituted it  a  Government  House.  He 
also  converted  a  footpath,  so  steep  and 
rugged  as  to  be  almost  impracticable, 
into  a  carriage  road.  The  Governor's 
residence  at  the  Point  is  elevated  about 
80  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  stands  close 
to  the  edge  of  the  steep  cliff,  in  which 
Malabar  Hill  on  this  side  terminates. 
The  drive  to  Malabar  Point,  and  thence 
along  the  sea  by  Breach  Candy,  is  one 
of  the  most  beautiful  in  the  island,  and 
is  well  thronged  with  carriages  and 
equestrians.  A  traveller  (Grant)  says 
that  he  was  reminded  of  Naples  by 
this  promenade. 

Valkeshwar. — The  temple  of  Val- 
keshwar,  "  Sand  Lord,"  is  on  the  W. 
side  of  Malabar  Hill,  and  close  to  Ma- 
labar Point.  Throngs  of  Hindiis  will 
be  met  coming  from  it,  their  foreheads 
newly   coloured   with    the    sectarial 


Sect.  TI. 


Towers  of  Silence, 


141 


mark.  The  legend  says  that  Kama,  on 
his  way  from  Ayodhya  (Oadh)  to 
Lankd  (Ceylon),  to  recover  his  bride 
SltA,  carried  off  by  RAvana,  halted 
here  for  the  night.  Lakshman  pro- 
vided his  brother  Bdma  with  a  new 
Lingam  direct  from  Bandras  every 
night.  This  night  he  failed  to  arrive 
at  the  expected  time,  and  the  impa- 
tient Rdma  made  for  himself  a  Lin- 
gam of  the  sand  at  the  spot.  When 
the  one  from  Bandras  arrived,  it  was 
set  up  in  the  temple,  while  the  one 
which  Bdma  had  made,  in  after  ages, 
on  the  arrival  of  the  Portuguese, 
sprang  into  the  sea  from  horror  of  the 
barbarians.  There  is  also  a  very  fine, 
but  small,  tank  here,  adorned  with 
noble  flights  of  steps,  which,  too,  is  not 
without  its  legend.  Rdma  thii-sted, 
and  there  being  no  water  here,  he  shot 
an  arrow  into  the  earth,  and  forthwith 
appeai'ed  the  tank,  hence  called  F<4im^- 
tirtJuif  "  Arrow-Tank."  The  tank  is 
shaded  by  fine  trees,  and  encircled  by 
snow-white  pagodas  and  neat  houses 
of  Brdhmans.  On  the  sea- shore  is  a 
rock  with  a  cleft  in  it,  through  which 
the  Hindiis  pass  as  a  sign  of  regenera- 
tion or  new  birth.  The  legend  says 
Shivajl  passed  through  this  cleft. 

Towers  of  Silence, — After  visiting 
Valkeshwar,  the  traveller  will  drive 
along  a  fine  road  to  Breach  Candy, 
where  he  will  see,  on  the  left  hand, 
the  swimming  bath,  which  is  60  ft.  by 
30,  and  from  4 J  ft.  to  10  ft.  deep.  The 
subscription  is  a  rupee  a  month,  and 
those  who  do  not  subscribe  pay  2  «^nAs 
for  each  bath.  Bathers  can  have  coffee 
and  cigarettes.  The  baths  are  open 
for  subscribers  on  Sundays  to  8  A.M. ; 
on  Tuesday  and  Friday  to  10  A.M.  ; 
and  for  ladies  on  Monday  and  Thurs- 
day to  10  A.M.  At  other  hours  non- 
subscribers  may  bathe.  In  order  to  see 
the  Towers  of  Silence,  permission  must 
be  obtained  from  the  Secretary  to  the 
Pdrsl  Panchdyat.  There  are  2  ways 
of  approaching  the  Towers,  one  is 
from  the  N.  side  by  turning  to  the 
right  from  the  Breach  Candy  road  as 
you  come  from  Malabar  HiU.  This 
was  the  road  taken  by  the  Prince  of 
Wales.  Sir  Jamshidjl  Jijlbhdl,  at  his 
own  expanse,  made  the  splendid  road 


which  loiids  to  the  Towers  on  this  side. 
Sir  Jamshldjf  further  gave  100,000  sq. 
yds.  of  land  on  the  N.  and  E.  sides  of 
the  Towers.  Ascending  by  his  road 
you  can  drive  nearly  to  the  top  of  the 
hill  on  which  the  Towers  are,  which  is 
over  100  ft,  high,  and  whence  there  is 
a  charming  view  over  the  E.  part  of 
the  island.  Over  the  N.  entrance  there 
is  this  inscription  : — 

This  Road,  leading  to  the  Parai  Towers  of 
Silence,  was  constructed  in  Memory  of  the 
lato  JAMSHfDjf  JiJiBHAf,  the  First  Barcnet, 
by  his  Son,  and  has  been  given  in  charge  of 
the  Trustees  of  the  Parsi  Panchdyat  Fund,  for 
the  use  of  PJlrsis  only.  19th  December,  1888. 
A.c.  1238  Yezd. 

After  driving  in  the  carriage  as  far 
as  possible,  the  traveller  will  come  to 
a  fiight  of  80  steps,  at  the  end  of  which 
he  will  find  a  notice  facing  him, 
"  None  but  Pdrsls  may  enter."  Accom- 
panied by  the  Secretary  of  the  Pan- 
chaydt,  the  stranger  will  pass  in,  and 
turning  to  the  right  come  to  a  stone 
building,  where,  during  funerals, 
prayer  is  offered.  Between  this  and 
the  enclosing  wall  is  a  little  space 
where  the  traveller  may  take  a  chair 
and  enjoy  one  of  the  finest  views  ob- 
tainable in  Bombay.  To  the  left  he 
will  see  Sion,  Sewrl,  and  Mazagdoii 
Hills,  and  between  them  some  20  lofty 
chimneys  of  cotton  mills  and  other 
high  buildings.  From  the  foot  of  the 
hill  on  which  are  the  Towers  stretches 
a  vast  grove  of  palms,  in  which  no  hu- 
man habitation  is  visible,  though  many 
are  concealed  by  the  broad  palm 
leaves.  On  the  right  are  seen  in  suc- 
cession the  Cathedral,  the  Government 
Offices,  the  Memorial  Church  of  St. 
John  at  Koldba,  and  the  Prong  Light- 
house. Probably  while  the  traveller  is 
looking  at  the  view,  a  funeral  will 
take  place.  A  bier  will  be  seen  carried 
up  the  steps  by  4  Nasr  Salars  or  "  car- 
riers of  the  dead,"  with  2  bearded  men 
following  them  closely,  and  perhaps 
100  Pdrsls  in  white  robes  walking  2 
and  2  in  procession.  The  bearded  men 
who  come  next  the  corpse  are  the  only 
persons  who  enter  the  Tower.  They 
wear  gloves,  and  when  they  touch  the 
bones  it  is  with  tongs.  On  leaving  the 
Tower  after  depositing  the  corpse  on 


142 


Bombay  City. 


Sect.  II. 


the  grating  within,  they  proceed  to 
the  purifying  place,  where  they  wash 
and  leave  the  clothes  they  have  worn 
in  a  tower  built  for  that  express  pur- 
pose. In  1875  the  tower  was  so  full 
that  the  garments  at  the  top  were 
blown  about  by  the  wind.  It  should 
be  said,  that  the  Parsls  who  walk  in 
procession  after  the  bier,  have  their 
clothes  linked,  in  which  there  is  a 
mystic  meaning.  There  is  a  model  of 
the  Tdwer  which  was  exhibited  to  the 
Prince  of  Wales,  and  would  probably 
be  produced  to  any  visitor  on  his  ask- 
ing permission  to  see  it.  There  are  6 
towers,  the  largest  of  which  cost 
£30,000,  while  the  other  4  on  an  aver- 
age cost  £20,000  each.  The  largest 
tower  is  276  ft.  round  and  25  high.  At 
8  ft.  from  the  ground  is  an  aperture  in 
the  encircling  wall  about  5^  ft.  sq., 
to  which  the  carriers  of  the  dead  as- 
cend by  a  flight  of  steps.  Inside,  there 
is  a  circular  platform  or  grating  gra- 
dually  depressed  towards  the  centre, 
in  which  is  a  well  5  ft.  in  diameter. 
The  bodies  are  deposited  in  fluted 
grooves  in  3  series,  with  a  circular  path, 
3  ft.  broad,  round  each,  and  a  straight 
path  to  the  well  from  the  aperture  in 
the  wall,  which  straight  path  commu- 
nicates with  the  3  circular  ones.  The 
adult  males  are  laid  in  the  outer  series, 
the  women  in  the  middle  series,  and  the 
children  in  that  nearest  the  well.  The 
bodies  are  placed  in  the  grooves  quite 
naked,  and  in  half  an  hour  the  flesh  is 
so  completely  devoured  by  the  numer- 
ous vultures  that  inhabit  the  trees 
around,  that  nothing  but  the  skeleton 
remains.  This  is  left  to  bleach  in  sun 
and  wind  tiU  it  becomes  perfectly  dry. 
Then  the  carriers  of  the  dead,  gloved 
and  with  tongs,  remove  the  bones  from 
the  grooves  and  cast  them  into  the 
weU.  Here  they  crumble  into  dust. 
Bound  the  well  are  perforations  which 
allow  the  rain-water  or  other  moisture 
to  escape  into  2  deep  drains  at  the 
bottom  of  the  Tower,  and  the  fluid  then 
passes  through  charcoal  and  becomes 
disinfected  and  inodorous  before  it 
passes  into  the  sea.  There  is  a  ladder 
in  the  well  by  which  the  carriers  of 
the  dead  descend  if  it  be  requisite  to 
remove  obstructions  fi-om  the  perfora- 


tions.   The  dust  in  the  well  accumu- 
lates so  slowly  that  in  40  years  it  'rose 
only  5  ft.    This  method  of  interment 
originates  from  the  veneration  the  Pdr- 
sls  pay  to  the  elements  and  their  zeal- 
ous endeavours  not  to  pollute  them. 
Pdrsls  respect  the  dead,  but  consider 
corpses  most  unclean,  and  the  carriers 
are  a  separate  and  peculiar  class  who 
are  not  allowed  to  mix  in  social  inter- 
course with  other  Pdrsls.    Yet  even 
these  men  wear  gloves  and  use  tongs 
in  touching  the  remains  of  a  deceased 
person,  and  purify  themselves  and  cast 
away  their  garments  after  every  visit 
to  a  tower.  Fire  is  too  much  venerated 
by  Ptels  for  them  to  allow  it  to  be 
polluted  by  burning  the  dead.    Water 
is  almost  equally  respected,  and  so  is 
earth  ;  hence  this  singular  mode  of  in- 
terment has  been  devised.    There  is, 
however,   another   reason.      Zartasht 
said,  that  rich  and  poor  must  meet  in 
death  ;  and  this  saying  has  been  liter- 
ally"  interpreted  and  carried  out  by 
the  contrivance  of  the  well,  which  is  a 
common  receptacle  for  the  dust  of  all 
PArsls,  of  Sir  Jamshidji  and  other  mil- 
lionaires, and  of  the  poor  inmates  of 
the  Pdrsi  Asylum.     In  the  arrange- 
ments of  the  vast  area  which  surrounds 
the  Towers,  nothing  has  been  omitted 
which  could  foster  calm  and  pleasing 
meditation.   You  at  once  arrive  at  the 
house  of  prayer,  and  around  is  a  beau- 
tiful garden  full  of  flowers  and  flower- 
ing shrubs.   Here,  under  the  shade  of 
fine  trees,  relatives  of  the  deceased  can 
sit  and  meditate.    The  height  of  the 
hill  and  the  proximity  of  the  sea  en- 
sures always  a  cool  breeze ;  and  the 
view  to  the  W.  and  S.  over  the  waters, 
and  to   the  E.  and  N.  over  the  city, 
the  islands  in  the  harbour  and  the  dis- 
tant mountains  beyond,  is  really  en- 
chanting and  perhaps  unrivalled.  The 
massive  grey  towers  and   the  thick 
woods  about  them  are  very  picturesque. 
Even  the  cypresses,  as  the  PArsis  them- 
selves say,  tapering  upwards,  point  the 
way  to  heaven  ;  and  it  is  certain  that 
the  PArsis  follow  out  that  thought  and 
are  firm  believers  in  the  resurrection 
and  the  re-assemblage  of  the  atoms, 
here  dispersed,  in  a  glorified  and  incor« 
I  ruptible  body. 


Sect.  IL 


Pdrfi  Dharmsdld — Slwoting. 


143 


PdrH  Wiarrnsdld,  —  If  the   ascent 

to  the  towers  be  made  from  the  S.  side, 

the  traveller  will  drive  to  the  Grdm 

Devi  Road,  in  which  is  the  Dharms&ld 

for  poor  Persian  PArsis.    The  building, 

which  is  a  good  and  clean  one,  stands 

in  an  extensive  garden  in  which  is  a 

tank.    Over  the  door  is  ^vritten — 

In  the  Name  of  God  !  Amen ! 
Khorshidjf  Ardeshir  Dddy  Sefs  Dhannsil&, 

Under  trast 

For  the  Destitute  Irdni  Pdrai  Zoroastrians. 

Year  Yezdajird  1222— Vikram,  1929— a.c.  1853. 

In  this  Irinl  Dharms^U  are  some- 
times as  many  as  200  men,  women, 
and  children.    In  the  morning  they 


of  fruit.  There  is  also  a  large  upper 
room  which  looks  over  the  garden,  and 
at  the  end  of  it  is  the  conmiittee  room. 
There  are  also  four  side  rooms.  In 
the  room  below  is  the  dispensary,  and 
on  the  far  side  of  the  quadrangle  the 
store  room.  The  ghi  and  other  comes- 
tibles are  kept  in  gigantic  Chinese  jars, 
big  enough  to  hold  'Ali  Bdbd's  thieves. 
These  jars  cost  2000  rs.  The  whole 
charity  does  much  credit  to  the  muni- 
ficence of  the  Parsls. 

There  are  two  leading  papers  in  Bom- 
bay, the  Timrs  of  India  and  theBmnbay 
Gazette.    There  is  also  a  theatre,  "  the 


have  tea  and  bread,  at  11  a.m.  rice  and  I  Gaiety,"  near  the  G.I.P.  Railway  Ter 


curry,  and  at  B.fiO  P.M.  a  dinner  of 
meat  and  vegetables  gratis.  The  chil- 
dren are  taught  by  a  Persian  Munshi. 
A  register  is  kept  in  Gujardti  of  things 
supplied  to  the  inmates.  Close  to  the 
dining-room  is  a  well  of  clear  water, 
and  a  large  airy  sleeping-room  for  men. 
Close  to  the  Irini  Dharms^^  is  an- 
other for  the  use  of  the  same  persons, 
over  the  door  of  which  is  written  : — 

Ehurshldjf  Ardeshir  DharmsiUl. 
Erected  at  the  expense  of 

Sir  KltJsjf  JahAnoIr  Beadymoney,  C.S.I., 

in  Commemoration  of  his  Maternal 

Grandfather, 

for  the  nse  of  Poor  Persian  Zoroastrians. 

Yezdi^ird,  1241.       a.c.  1812. 

At  the  S.E.  foot  of  the  hUl  on  which 
are  the  Towers  of  Silence  is  an  alms- 
house for  decayed  P4rsis  of  both  sexes. 
Over  the  door  is  written . — 

This  Asylum, 
for  the  Reception  of  Blind  and  I>i8abled  Poor 

Pdrsfs, 
was  erected  at  the  expense  of  the 
Sons  of  the  late  FardtiA)!  Sorabjl  Parak,  Esq., 
in  Commemoration  of  the  Death  of 

PIRUZ   BAI, 

the  Wife  of  the  late 

Jamshfdjf  Fardiinji  Parak,  Esq., 

in  the  Yezd  year  1214— a.c.  1845,  and  given  in 

cliaige  of  the  Tmstees  of  the  PusiPanchiyat. 

The  Upper  Floor  of  this  Building  was  built  at 
the  expense  of 

KHURSHfDji  FARDtJNjf  Pabak,  Esq., 
in  the  Yezd  year  1233— a.c.  1864. 

There  are  6  rooms  on  the  ground  floor, 
in  which  are  generally  about  8  fe- 
males and  3  or  4  times  the  number  of 
men  ;  some  are  blind.  In  the  centre 
of  the  quadrangle  are  flowering  shrubs, 
and  outside  is  a  very  large  garden  full 


minus,  at  the  S.  end  of  Esplanade  Mar- 
ket Boad,  and  one  in  the  Grant  Eoad. 
On  the  Eidge  is  a  gymnasium  called 
GymJihdnahj  where  lawn  tennis  is 
played  ;  attached  is  a  skating  rink. 

Shooting. — Tigers  and  panthers  are 
rather  numerous  in  the  Koukan,  and 
may  be  found  occasionally  in  Salsette. 
At  the  hill  fort  of   Tungafh,   about 
20  m.  from  Bombay,  tigers  are  sure  to 
be  found,  but  it  is  difficult  to  get  ac- 
commodation there,  as  there  are  only 
one  or  two  huts,  and  horses  picqueted 
outside  are  very  likely  to  be  killed 
during  the  night.    The  monthly  pay  of 
a  huntsman  or  thikdri  is  about  Bs.  15  ; 
but  shooting  tigers  is  very  expensive, 
as  a  great  number  of  beaters  is  required 
at  about  6  4nds  each.    New  comers 
should  endeavour  to  go  with  some  ex- 
perienced sportsman,  by  whom  all  the 
arrangements  should  be  made.    If  the 
traveller  can  give  a  week  to  sport,  he 
might  go  by  steamer  to  Edrwdr,  270  m., 
occupying  36  hours,  and  would  find  on 
landing  that  panthers  abound  in  the 
jungles  all  round  the  harbour,  and  are 
bold  enough  to  come  even  to  the  tra- 
veller's bangld.    A  few  miles  up  the 
river,  royal  tigers  are  sure  to  be  met 
with,     fc^nipe  are  so  numerous  on  the 
E.  side  of  Bombay  Harbour  in  Panwell 
Creek,  that  more  than  50  brace  have 
been  killed  by  a  single  sportsman  in  a 
day.    At  the  Yihdr  Lake  and  Thdnd 
and  close  to  Ndrel  wild  duck,  snipe, 
hares  and  partridges  are  to  be  found. 
At  places  in  Gujardt,  easily  reached 
by  the  railway,  such  as  Nariad,  quail 
and  florican  can  be  got. 


144 


Bombay  City. 


Sect.  II. 


Ra'dn^aAjsi  and  Sfcamfrst.  —  Tho  sta- 
tions of  the  tramways,  and  of  the 
Bombay,  Baroda  and  Central  India 
Railway  are  at  EolAba,  ^  m.  S.  of 
"Watson's  Hotel  and  of  the  hotels  in 
the  Fort,  but  there  is  a  station  much 
closer,  and  nearly  due  W.  of  Watson's 
Hotel,  called  Church-gate  Station, 
whence  passengers  can  start  for  any 
places  reached  by  the  B.  B.  and  C.  I. 
line.  Those  who  are  living  at  the 
Bykallah  hotels  will  go  of  course  from 
the  Bykallah  Station,  and  those  living 
at  Malabar  Hill  and  its  vicinity  will 
go  from  the  Grant  Koad  Station.  Pas- 
sengers for  the  Great  Indian  Penin- 
sula Line  will  start  from  the  Bori 
Bandar  Station.  The  office  of  the  Bri- 
tish India  Steam  Navigation  Company 
is  that  of  Messrs.  Mackinnon,  Mac- 
kenzie and  Co.,  in  the  Fort  in  Elphin- 
stone  Circle,  inner  circle,  S.  side.  The 
office  of  the  B.  B.  and  C.  I.  Ry.  is  in 
Church-gate  Street,  in  a  detached 
block  of  buildings  facing  the  N.  side  of 
the  Cathedral ;  that  of  the  Rubattino 
Steam  Navigation  Company  in  Hamdm 
Street,  N.  side.  The  office  of  the  G.  I.  P. 
Ry.  is  in  Elphinstone  Circle,  Fort. 

SIGHTS  IN  THE  VICINITY  OP  BOMBAY. 

ElepJianta.  —  For  visiting  this  re- 
markable place  steam  launches  can  be 
hired  at  Apollo  Bandar,  and  make  the 
passage  in  an  hour,  or  a  bandar-boat 
may  be  hired  at  from  3  to  6  rs.  In 
this  case  the  length  of  the  passage  will 
depend  on  wind  and  tide.  Or,  if  living 
near  Mazagaon,  the  traveller  may  hire 
a  boat  or  engage  a  steam  launch  from 
the  pier  there.  He  will  then  cross  close 
to  Butcher's  Island,  which  is  3  m. 
nearly  due  E.  from  Mazagdon  Dock. 
Persons  coming  from  sea  with  infec- 
tious diseases,  such  as  small-pox,  are 
placed  in  quarantine  at  Butcher's 
Island,  which  was  at  first  intended  for 
Madras  troops  coming  to  Bombay. 
From  this  island  to  the  landing  place 
at  Elephanta  is  IJ  m.  due  E.  The 
view  in  this  part  of  the  harbour  is 
beautiful.  To  the  N.  one  sees  Salsette 
Hill,otherwise  called  the  Neat's  Tongue, 
atTrombay,  which  is  100  ft.  high  above 
high  water  spring  tides.  The  ruins  of 
an  old  Portuguese  chapel  at  Trubah  in 


Trombay  are  at  a  height  of  324  ft.  The 
I  highest  point  of  Elephanta  is  568  ft. 
There  is  another  hill  400  ft.  high  to  tho 
left  of  the  Caves  as  you  approach  them, 
and  here  are  3  tanks,  and  further  to  the 
left  the  ruins  of  a  tower.  A  pleasant 
trip  may  be  made  by  water  from  Ele- 
phanta to  Thdnd,  a  distance  of  16  m. 

Elephanta^  called  by  the  natives 
GluirapuH  (*'  the  town  of  the  rock," 
or  "  of  purification,"  according  to  Dr. 
Wilson)-— according  to  the  Rev.  J.  Ste- 
venson, Journal  of  the  Bombay  Asiatio 
Society^  for  July,  1852,  Art.  iv.,  Gara^ 
purl,  •'  the  town  of  excavations," — is 
a  small  island,  distant  about  6  miles 
from  the  Fort  of  Bombay.  The  caves 
are  called  Lenen  (Lend)  by  the  na- 
tives, a  word  used  throughout  India 
and  Ceylon  for  these  excavations,  most 
probably  on  account  of  the  first  of 
them  being  intended  for  hermitages 
of  Buddhist  ascetics.  The  walk  to  the 
caves  is  first  of  all  over  a  slippery  pier 
formed  of  blocks  of  concrete,  which 
rise  about  5  ft.  from  the  water  and 
have  an  interval  of  some  6  or  8  inches 
between  every  two.  The  total  dis- 
tance to  the  caves  is  about  a  J  of  a  m. 
After  passing  the  pier  the  ascent  is  by 
flights  of  steps,  118  in  all,  with  plat- 
forms or  standing-places  between  each 
flight  and  the  next.  The  island  is  co- 
vered with  low  corinda  bushes.  It 
consists  of  two  long  hills,  with  a  narrow 
valley  between  them.  The  usual  land- 
ing-place "was  formerly  towards  the 
S.W.,  where  the  valley  is  broadest.  It 
is  now  on  the  N.W.  About  250  yards 
to  the  right  of  the  landing-place,  on 
the  rise  of  one  of  the  hills,  and  not  far 
from  the  ruins  of  the  Portuguese  build- 
ing, was  a  mass  of  rock,  which  was 
cut  into  the  shape  of  an  elephant  of  the 
following  dimensions,  which  we  give 
as  a  specimen  of  native  knowledge  of 
proportion  at  the  remote  age  when  the 
figure  was  sculptured,  which  was  pro- 
bably the  10th  century  : — 

rr.  IN. 
Length  from  the  forehead  to  the  root 

of  the  tail 13    2 

Height  at  head 7    4 

Whole  circumference  at  shoulders  .  35  6 
Ditto  round  four  legs  .  .  .  .  32  0 
Breadth  of  back  across  rump  .  .80 
Girth  of  body  about  the  middle  .  .  20  2 
Height  of  left  hind  foot        .       .       .56 


Sect.  II. 


Eleplumta» 


U5 


FT.  IN. 

Circamference  of  right  fore  foot      .    .    6    7| 
„  „  hind  foot  .       .63 

Circiunference  of  left  hind  foot       ..77 
„  ,,  forefoot     .       .73 

Height  of  stone  support  to   sustain 

belly 2    2 

Length  of  tail 7    9 

Circumference  of  tail  .  .  .  .  2  10 
From  top  of  brow  to  curve  of  trunk  .  6  3 
Length  of  trunk  flrom  between  tusks  .    7  10 

Right  tusk 0  11 

Left  ditto 0    6 

Pyke  in  1712,  and  Anquetil  in  1760, 
represented  the  elephant  as  having 
another  smaller  one  on  its  back.  In 
1764,  Niebuhr  reported  that  there  were 
the  remains  of  something  on  the  back, 
but  that  it  was  impossible  to  distin- 
guish what  it  was.  Basil  Hall,  how- 
ever, conjectured,  and  no  doubt  cor- 
rectly, that  the  smaller  animal  was  a 
tiger.  Mr.  Erskine  {Transactiong  of 
tins  Bombay  Literary  Society,  vol.  i.) 
gives  the  following  dimensions :  length, 
4  ft.  7  in. ;  distance  of  two  hind  paws, 
3  ft.  6  in.  ;  breadth  of  body,  1  ft.  2  in. 
In  September,  1814,  the  head  and  neck 
of  the  elephant  dropped  off,  and  the 
body,  which  had  a  huge  crack  down 
the  back,  sank  down,  and  threatened 
to  fall.  In  1864  the  then  shapeless 
mass  of  stones  was  removed  to  the 
Victoria  Gardens  in  Bombay. 

Advancing  up  the  valley,  which 
grows  more  and  more  narrow,-  at  a 
place  where  the  two  hUls  approach  'so 
close  as  to  leave  only  a  steep  gulley 
between  them,  is  the  spot  where  Fryer, 
ill  1673,  found  a  stone  horse,  which 
had  sunk  into  the  earth  up  to  the  belly. 
It  still  remained  in  1712,  but  disap- 
peared in  1784.  There  is,  however, 
now  a  staircase  leading  directly  to  the 
excavations  from  the  W.  The  follow- 
ing description  is  extracted  chiefly 
from  Mr.  Erskine's  paper  in  the  TranS' 
actions  of  tlie  Bombay  Literary  Society 
above  alluded  to  : — 

"  Ascending  the  narrow  path  where 
the  two  hills  are  knit  together,  we  at 
length  come  to  a  beautiful  and  rich 
prospect  of  the  northern  part  of  the 
island,  of  the  sea,  and  the  opposite 
shores  of  3alsette.  Advancing  forward, 
and  keeping  to  the  left  along  the  bend 
of  the  hill,  we  gradually  mount  to  an 
open  space,  and  come  suddenly  on  the 

[5o7»5ay— 1880.1 


grand  entrance  of  a  magnificent  temple, 
whose  huge  massy  columns  seem  to 
give  support  to  the  whole  mountain 
which  rises  above  it. 

The  time  when  these  caves  were  e:^- 
cavated  can  only  yet  be  guessed  at, 
but  it  is  supposed  that  it  must  have 
been  some  time  between  the  eighth  and 
twelfth  centuries  of  the  Christian  era. 
The  main  reason  for  this  supposition 
is,  that  from  inscriptions  and  tablets 
found  in  various  parts  of  Southern 
India,  and  architectural  structures 
whose  age  is  known,  it  seems  that  the 
religious  system  to  which  the  carved 
images  and  architectural  embellish- 
ments belong,  had  not  gained  much 
currency  before  the  first  mentioned  of 
those  eras ;  and,  owing  to  their  conflicts 
with  the  Mul;^ammadans,  the  Hindii 
Bdjds,  it  is  surmised,  would  not  be 
able  to  give  attention  to  such  works 
after  the  last  mentioned  period.  The 
rock,  also,  out  of  which  tne  caves  are 
excavated,  being  full  of  rents,  the 
water  penetrates  through  it,  and  de- 
taches piece  after  piece  from  the  figures, 
so  as  to  threaten  to  destroy  them  one 
day  altogether.  This  process,  then,  it 
is  conjectured,  if  the  caves  had  been  of 
very  ancient  date,  would  by  this  time 
have  occasioned  a  greater  degree  of 
damage  than  we  find  has  actually  taken 
place.  This  damage,  since  the  caves 
were  first  described  by  Niebuhr,  has 
been  very  considerable,  and  several 
Europeans  in  Bombay  can  testify  that 
even  during  the  last  quarter  of  a  cen- 
tuiy  it  has  been  by  no  means  imma- 
terial. 

The  entrance  into  the  temple,  which 
is  entirely  hewn  out  of  a  stone  resem- 
bling porphyry,  is  by  a  spacious  front 
supported  by  two  massy  pillars  and  two 
pilasters  forming  three  openings,  under 
a  thick  and  steep  rock  overhung  by 
brushwood  and  wild  shrubs.  The  whole 
excavation  consists  of  three  principal 
parts  :  the  great  temple  itself,  which  is 
in  the  centre,  and  two  smaller  chapels, 
one  on  each  side  of  the  great  temple. 
These  two  chapels  do  not  come  forward 
into  a  straight  line  with  the  front  of 
the  chief  temple,  are  not  perceived  on 
approaching  the  temple,  and  are  con- 
siderably in  recess,  being  approached 


146 


Bombay  City. 


Sect.  Ik 


by  two  narrow  passes  in  the  hill,  one 
on  each  side  of  the  grand  entrance, 
■bat  at  some  distance  from  it.  After 
advancing  to  some  distance  up  these 
confined  passes,  we  find  each  of  them 
conduct  to  another  front  of  the  grand 
excavation,  exactly  like  the  principal 
front  which  is  first  seen,  all  the  three 
fronts  being  hollowed  out  of  the  solid 
rock,  and  each  consisting  of  two  huge 
pillars  with  two  pilasters.  The  two 
side  fronts  are  precisely  opposite  to 
each  other  on  the  E.  and  W.,  the 
grand  entrance  facing  the  X.  The 
two  wings  of  the  temple  are  at  the 
upper  end  of  these  passages,  and  are 
close  by  the  grand  excavation,  but 
have  no  covered  passage  to  connect 
them  with  it. 

The  left  side  of  the  cave,  that  is  the 
side  on  which  the  square  temple  is 
situated, is  130  ft.  Sin.  in  length,  while 
the  right  side  is  only  128  ft.  J  in.  Va- 
rieties of  this  kind  are  observable  in 
every  other  part ; — ^some  of  the  pillars 
are  situated  from  each  other  at  a  dis- 
tance only  of  12  ft.  10 in.,  others  are 
separated  by  16  ft.  4^  in. ;  some  of  them 
are  at  15  ft.  3  in.,  others  at  13  ft.  2  in., 
others  at  14  ft.  3  in.  from  each  other, 
and  so  on  ;  nor  is  the  size  of  the  pillars 
themselves  less  various  ;  the  side  of  the 
pedestals  being  some  of  them  3  ft.  3  in. ; 
others  3  ft.  4  in.,  others  3  ft.  5  in.,  and 
others  3  ft.  6  in. 

The  great  temple  is  about  130)  feet 
long,  measuring  from  the  chief  en- 
trance to  the  furthest  end  of  the  cave, 
and  130  ft.  broad  from  the  eastern  to 
the  western  entrance.  It  rests  on  26 
pillars  (eight  of  them  now  broken) 
and  16  pilasters  ;  and  neither  the  floor 
nor  the  roof  being  in  one  plane,  it 
varies  in  height  from  17J  to  15  ft. 
The  plan  is  regfular,  there  being  eight 
.pillars  and  pilasters  in  a  line  from 
the  N.  entrance  to  the  S.  extreme  of 
the  temple,  and  the  same  number 
from  the  E.  to  the  W.  entrances.  The 
only  striking  deviation  from  this 
regularity  in  the  chief  temple,  is  the 
small  square  excavation,  that  is  seen 
as  we  go  up  the  temple  on  the 
right :  it  occupies  the  place  of  four 
pillars  and  of  the  intermediate  space 
inclosed  between  them,  as  if  a  veil 


had  been  drawn  around  them,  and 
the  spot  so  enclosed  divided  from  the 
rest  of  the  temple.  At  the  furthest 
extremity  there  are  two  small  exca- 
vations facing  each  other,  the  one  on 
the  r.  the  other  on  the  L  ;  their  use 
is  not  well  ascertained :  they  were 
probably  employed  for  keeping  the 
holy  utensils  and  offerings.  The  exca- 
vation presents  to  the  .eye  the  ap- 
pearance of  perfect  regularity,  which 
it  is  not  found  to  possess  when  accu- 
rately examined.  The  pillars,  which 
all  appear  to  run  in  straight  lines 
parallel  to  each  other,  and  at  equal 
distances,  are  crossed  by  other  ranges 
running  at  right  angles  in  the  oppo- 
site direction ;  they  are  strong  and 
massive,  of  an  order  remarkablv  well 
adapted  to  their  situation  and  the  pur- 
pose wliich  they  are  to  serve,  and  liave 
an  appearance  of  very  considerable 
elegance.  They  are  not  all  of  the  same 
form,  but  differ  both  in  their  size  and 
ornaments,  though  this  difference  also 
does  not  at  first  strike  the  eye.  They 
rise  to  upwards  of  half  their  height 
from  a  square  pedestal,  generally 
about  3  feet  5  each  way,  crowned 
on  the  top  by  a  broad  bandage  of  the 
same  shape :  above  this,  but  divided 
from  it  by  a  circular  astragal  and  two 
polygonic  fillets,  rises  a  short  round 
fluted  shaft,  forming  about  a  fourth  of 
the  column  and  diminishing  with  a 
curve  towards  the  top,  where  a  circular 
cincture  of  beads  binds  round  it  a  fillet 
composed  of  an  ornament  resembling 
leaves,  or  rather  cusps,  the  lower  ex- 
tremity of  which  appears  below  the 
cincture,  while  the  superior  extremity 
rises  above,  projecting  and  terminating 
gracefully  in  a  circle  of  over-hanging 
leaves  or  cusps.  A  narrow  band  divides 
this  ornament  from  the  round  fluted 
compressed  cushion,  which  may  be  re- 
garded as  the  capital  of  the  column, 
and  as  giving  it  its  character  :  its  fluted 
form  coalesces  beautifully  with  the 
fluted  shaft  below.  This  cushion  has 
its  circumference  bound  by  a  thin  flat 
band  or  fillet,  as  if  to  retain  it ;  and 
above  supports  a  square  plinth,  on 
which  rests  the  architrave  that  slopes 
away  on  each  side  in  scrolls  connected 
by  a  band  or  riband,  till  it  meets  the 


Sect.  II. 


JElephanta, 


147 


large  transverse  beam  of  rock  which 
connects  the  range  of  pillars. 

77ie  TJ/nga  Chapel, — ^The  great  cave 
at  Elephanta  is  what  the  Hindiis 
call  a  Shiva  Linga  Temple,  a  class 
of  sacred  buildings  very  common  in 
S.  and  Central  India.  Many  of  the 
Brahmans  in  Bombay  will  not  ac- 
knowledge its  claim  to  this  honour, 
and  the  place  is  now  nearly  desei-ted. 
They,  with  other  natives,  maintain  that 
this  and  all  the  rest  of  the  excava- 
tions around  are  the  works  of  the  sons 
of  Pdndu,  who  constructed  them  while 
wandering  about  the  country  in  banish- 
ment from  their  native  land.  They  ima- 
gine these  excavations  are  works  far 
too  mighty  for  the  degenerate  mortals 
of  our  day.  The  reason  why  this  temple 
lias  been  deserted  may  have  been  the 
nnhealthiness  of  the  island,  which, 
during  certain  seasons  of  the  year, 
is  very  prolific  of  ague  ;  or  perhaps 
the  first  Europeans  may  have  dese- 
crated the  images,  and  led  the  Hindtis 
to  abandon  them.  Although  the  cur- 
rent tradition  that  the  Portuguese  fired 
into  the  cave  from  the  offing,  and 
hauled  guns  up  the  hill  to  its  mouth 
to  destroy  the  idols,  is  absurd,  and 
could  never,  even  if  true,  account  for 
the  actual  damage  done,  as  every  visitor 
may  easily  satisfy  himself ;  still  it  is 
not  improbable  that  they  desecrated 
the  place,  and  that  hence  arose  those 
popular  stories.  The  great  cave  is 
nevertheless  still  visited  by  Hindiis, 
especially  of  the  Banyan  caste,  on  the 
p:reat  festivals  of  Shiva,  and  the  great 
Ling  is  worshipped  on  these  occasions 
by  crowds  of  devotees. 

After  entering  the  great  cave  from 
the  usual  entrance  on  the  N.,  the 
popular  object  of  worship,  which  more 
particularly  attracts  the  devotees 
above  mentioned,  is  seen  about  half- way 
up  on  the  r.,  or  towards  theW.  of  the 
cave.  It  is  a  conical  stone  2  ft.  10  in 
diameter,  called  the  Ijiiig,  and  is  en- 
closed in  a  chapel  19^  ft.  square, 
with  four  doorn,  facing  the  four 
principal  directions.  The  Ling  is  in- 
tended to  represent  Shiva  in  his  cha- 
racter of  the  prolific  power  of  nature. 
Around  this  chapel  on  the  outside  are 
a  number  of  la^e  figures,  representing 


door-keepers,  who  arc  supposed  to  be 
high  caste  Hindiis.  They  lean  on 
dwarfs,  intended  for  low  caste  men, 
but  called  by  the  Hindiis  pishich, 
or  demons.  This  Ling,  then,  is  the 
principal  object  of  popular  worship. 
All  the  other  figures  in  this  exca- 
vated temple  are  to  be  considered 
merely  as  subsidiary  to  this,  and  might 
rather  be  compared  to  our  historical 
frescoes  in  Europe  than  to  anything 
else.  At  most  they  can  but  be  con- 
sidered analogous  to  the  pictures  in 
churches  in  S.  Europe,  additional  to 
the  altar-piece,  which  receive  a  degree 
of  homage  far  inferior  to  that  reserved 
for  the  patron  saint. 

Three-faced  Bmt,  or  TrimurtL — The 
chief  of  the  mural  figures  is  the  im- 
mense three-faced  bust,-19  ft.  in  height, 
which  faces  the  northern  entrance. 
It  is  the  representation  of  Shiva  in 
his  three-fold  character  of  Brahmd, 
Vishnu,  and  Rudra.  The  Hindti  notion 
of  the  deity  is,  that  God  is  essentially 
one,  but  that,  when  the  time  for  the 
renewal  of  the  world  arrives,  he  causes 
to  emanate  from  his  essence  three 
impersonations  of  the  divinity,  one 
who  creates,  a  second  who  preserves, 
and  a  third  who  destroys.  The 
three-feced  figure,  then,  called  by 
the  Hindiis  a  Trimurti,  is  intended  to 
represent  these  three  gods,  who  eman- 
ate from  the  one  divinity,  and  still 
continue  united  in  him.  According 
to  the  system  of  Hindiiism  followed 
in  these  sculptures,  the  eternal  divin- 
ity is  Shiva,  in  another  system  it  is 
Vishnu,  and  in  a  third  the  principal 
goddess  of  the  Hindiis.  Shiva  is  some- 
times represented  with  five  faces,  and 
it  has  been  surmised  that  this  three- 
faced  bust  is  intended  to  represent 
him  in  that  form,  one  of  the  heads 
being  hid  behind,  and  another  above ; 
but  in  those  figures  part  of  all  the  five 
faces  are  visible,  four  arranged  round 
the  head,  and  one  peeping  out  from 
the  crown  before  the  knot  of  twisted 
hair.  In  the  other  figures,  especially 
that  of  Brahmd,  as  carved  in  these 
caves,  a  portion  of  all  the  faces  any 
being  is  supposed  to  have  are  always 
represented.  We  do  not,  then  need 
to  go  to  the  Greek  and  Boman  repre- 

l2 


148 


B<ynd)ay  City, 


Sect.  11. 


sentations  of  the  three-faced  Hecate 
as  preserved  in  ancient  sculptures, 
for  an  illustration  of  the  theory  for 
which  we  contend,  when  we  find  it 
universally  adopted  by  Hindii  artists, 
and  even  in  these  very  caves.  The  bust, 
then,  represents  a  three-faced  god. 

The  central  face — ^the  one  tiiat  im- 
mediately fronts  the  spectator  in  this 
triple  bust — ^is  intended  for  Shiva  in 
the  character  of  Brahmd,  the  Creator. 
Brahm^,  again,  is,  perhaps,  the  imper- 
sonation of  the  Brdhman  caste, — the 
originator  of  the  sacred  rites  of  the 
Hindi^  Eemark  the  jewel  on  the 
breast,  which  is  one  of  the  finest  speci- 
mens of  Hindii  taste  extant.  He  is  re- 
presented as  an  ascetic  Brdhman,  with 
his  characteristic  gourd  in  one  hand, 
to  serve  for  a  drinking  vessel.  The 
face  to  the  spectator's  right,  and  to  the 
-left  of  the  bust,  is  Shiva  in  the  form 
of  Vi§hnu  the  Preserver  ;  he  has  here 
his  uid^ailing  mark,  a  full-blown  lotus, 
in  his  right  hand.  To  the  right  of  the 
bust,  again,  or  to  the  spectator's  left, 
Shiva  appears  as  Budra,  t.^.,  the  De- 
stroyer, which  is  generally  considered 
to  be  his  proper  character.  He  is 
smiling  on  a  cobra  capeUa-,  which  is 
twisted  round  his  arm,  and  with  ex- 
panded hood  looking  him  full  in  the 
face.  A  swelling  on  his  forehead  is 
liis  third  eye,  from  which  is  to  burst 
the  flame  that  will  consume  at  last 
the  world.  Among  the  ornaments  of 
his  cap  are  a  skull,  a  leaf  of  the 
nirgvdi,  and  a  branch  of  the  hilva 
tree,  all  peculiar  characteristics  of  this 
god.  The  figures  at  the  portals,  1 3  ft.  6 
and  12  ft.  9  high,  are  Hind^  door- 
keepers, and  they  lean,  as  before,  on 
dwar&,  called  by  the  natives  pish^ch,  or 
demons,  probably  caricaturesof  the  rude 
aborigines  or  hill  tribes  of  the  country. 

ArddhandrUh/rtar,  or  Half  Male  Half 
Female  Divinity, —  In  the  first  com- 
partment to  the  right  of  the  central 
figure,  or  to  the  spectator's  left,  there  is 
an  exhibition  of  Shiva  16  ft.  9  high  in 
his  character  of  Arddhan^rishwar .  The 
right  half  of  the  figure  is  intended  to  be 
that  of  a  male,  and  the  left  that  of  a 
female,  and  thus  to  represent  Shiva  as 
uniting  the  two  sexes  in  his  one  per- 
son.   The  first  European  visitors  sup^ 


posed  this  figure  to  be  intended  for  an 
Amazon,  trajosferring  the  traditions  of 
Greece  to  India.  No  such  being  is 
known,  however,  to  Indian  mythology, 
while  such  a  manifestation  of  Shiva  as 
we  have  mentioned  is  described  in  the 
Purdnas.  The  buU  on  which  two  of 
the  hands  of  the  figure  lean,  and  on 
which  it  is  supposed  to  ride,  is  called 
Nandi,  a  constant  attendant  on  Shiva. 
Brahmd,  on  his  lotus  throne,  supported 
by  five  swans,  and  with  his  four  faces, 
is  exhibited  on  the  right  of  the  figure. 
He  has  a  portion  of  all  these  faces 
visible.  On  the  left,  Vishnu  is  seen 
riding  on  what  is  now  a  headless 
Garuda,  a  fabulous  creature,  half  man 
half  eagle.  Above  and  in  the  back- 
ground are  found  a  number  of  inferior 
gods  and  sages  of  the  Hindi!is.  Indra, 
king  of  the  old  gods — ^tfaose  worshipped 
in  ancient  times  —  appears  mounted 
on  an  elephant. 

Shiva  and  Parvati. — In  the  com- 
partment next  on  the  left  of  the  Ttn- 
murti  are  two  gigantic  figures  of  Shiva 
and  PArvati,  the  former  16  ft.  high, 
the  latter  12  ft.  4  in.  Shiva  has  a 
very  carious  cap,  on  which  the  crescent 
and  other  ornaments  are  sculptured, 
and  from  the  top  of  which  issues  some- 
thing which  looks  like  a  foam-crested 
wave,  from  which  arise  three  female 
heads,  to  represent  the  Gang4  Proper, 
the  YamunA,  and  Saraswatf,  which 
three  streams  unite  at  Praydg,  or 
A114hAbAd,  and  form  the  Ganges. 
According  to  a  well-known  Hindii 
legend,  the  Ganges  flowed  from  the 
head  of  Shiva.  The  god  is  standing, 
and  has  four  arms,  of  which  the  outer 
left  rests  on  a  pishdchah,  who  seems 
to  bend  under  the  weight.  Niebuhr 
mistook  the  twisted  hair  of  this  dwarf 
for  a  turban,  whereas,  as  is  worthy  of 
remark,  there  is  no  such  head-dress  on 
any  figure  at  Elephanta,  and  it  is 
altogether  ignored  in  ancient  Hindii 
books.  In  the  dwarfs  right  hand  is  a 
cobra,  in  his  left  a  clmuiiri;  from  his 
neck  hangs  a  necklace,  the  ornament 
of  which  is  a  tortoise.  On  Shiva's 
right  are  several  attendants,  and  above 
them  Brahmd,  sculptured  much  as  in 
the  compartment  on  the  right  of  the 
Trimurti.  Between  BrahmA  and  Shiva 


Sect.  II. 


EUphanta. 


149 


is  Indra  on  his  elephant  Airdvatah, 
which  appears  to  be  kneeling.  Pik- 
vati  leans  slightly  from  left  to  right, 
towards  Shiva,  and  is  represented  with 
very  full  breasts.  Her  left  hand  rests 
on  a  female  jmM^7Wf,  above  whom  is 
Vishnu  on  Gamda,  with  the  sectarial 
mark  and  a  snake  tied  like  a  neck- 
cloth. Above  is  a  group  of  six  figures, 
two  of  which  are  females. 

Marriage  of  Shiva  and  Pdrvati. — 
Proceeding  still  to  the  left  of  the  5H- 
murti,  and  in  a  westerly  direction,  the 
visitor  comes  to  the  compartment  re- 
presenting Bhiva's  marriage,  as  Pyke 
and  Moor  were  the  first  to  discover. 
Mr.  Erskine,  however,  in  mentioning 
iheir  conjecture,  adds,  '^  though,  from 
the  most  careful  inspection  of  the 
sculpture,  I  can  perceive  nothing  to 
favour  the  supposition."  This  remark 
from  so  learned  an  Orientalist,  is  the 
more  singular,  as  the  position  of  P^- 
vatt  on  the  right  of  Shiva  would  alone 
go  far  to  prove  it  to  be  the  delineation 
of  her  bridal ;  it  being  well  known 
that  to  stand  on  the  right  of  her 
husband,  and  to  eat  with  him  are 
privileges  vouchsafed  to  a  Hindii  wife 
only  on  her  wedding-day.  In  the 
comer,  at  the  right  of  P^vati,  is 
Brahmd,  known  by  his  four  faces, 
sitting  and  reading  the  sacred  texts 
suited  to  the  occasion.  Above,  on 
Shiva's  left,  is  Vishnu.  Among  the 
attendants  on  the  right  of  Pirvatl  is 
one  bearing  a  vessel,  supposed  to  be 
filled  with  sugar-plums,  as  is  the  cus- 
tom still  in  Bombay  on  such  occasions. 
Behind  the  goddess  is  a  priest,  who  is 
pushing  her  forward  to  overcome  her 
bashfulness. 

Birth  of  Oanesliah,  Shiva's  eldest 
son, — In  the  corresponding  compart- 
ment, to  the  east  and  right  of  the 
Trimurti,  Shiva  and  Pdrvati  are  seated 
together,  with  groups  of  male  and 
female  inferior  divinities  showering 
down  flowers  from  above,  the  rock 
being  cut  into  various  shapes  to  repre- 
sent the  clouds  of  Kailds,  Shiva's 
heaven.  At  Shiva's  feet  is  the  skeleton 
figure  of  Bhringi,  one  of  his  favourites ; 
and  behind  Pdrvati  is  a  female  with  a 
child  a-straddle  on  her  left  hip.  This 
child,  according  to  Sterenson^  is  Yin^- 


yaka,  or  Ganesh,  though  Erskine  su]^- 
poses  it  to  be  Ei^rtikej^.  Beneath  is 
Nandi  and  the  tiger  on  which  Pdr- 
vati rides,  with  Apishdcluih  lifting  up 
its  leg.  Two  skeleton  Ri^his,  the  one 
on  the  left  holding  a  basket,  may  be 
remarked  in  the  clouds. 

Mdvanah  attempting  to  remove  Xai^ 
Ids. — ^The  visitor  must  now  face  com- 
pletely round,  and  look  to  the  N. 
instead  of  the  S.,  and,  advancing  a 
few  paces,  he  wiU  come  in  front  of  the 
sixth  compartment,  which  is  to  the 
right  of  the  eastern  entrance.  Here 
Rdvan,  the  demon  king  of  Lankd,  or 
Ceylon,  is  attempting  to  remove  Kailds, 
the  heavenly  hill  of  Sliiva,  to  his  own 
kingdom,  in  order  that  he  may  have 
his  tutelary  deity  always  with  him,  for 
Bdvan  was  ever  a  worshipper  of  Shi- 
va. Rdvan  has  ten  heads  and  arms, 
and  is  with  his  back  to  the  spectator. 
Shiva  is  seen  in  Kailds,  with  Pdrvati 
on  his  right,  and  votaries  and  Rishis 
in  the  background.  On  the  left  of 
Shiva,  who  is  represented  with  eight 
arms,  his  third  eye,  and  the  crescent 
on  his  cap,  is  Vishnu  on  Garuda,  Ga- 
nesh,  and  Bh]*ingi,  and  in  the  recess  is 
the  VdJiana^  or  vehicle  of  Pdrvati,  a 
tiger  crouched  on  its  paws.  Two  of 
Shiva's  attendants,  on  opposite  sides 
of  the  compartment,  have  the  eye  on 
the  forehead,  and  one  has  a  death's 
head  on  his  cap,  "  for,"  says  the  Shiv- 
Gltd,  "he  who  worships  me  disinte- 
restedly, by  knowing  me  gains  my 
form."  The  legend  runs  that  Rdvan 
shook  Kailds  so  much,  that  Pdrvati 
was  alarmed,  whereupon  Shiva  pressed 
down  the  hiU  with  one  of  his  toes  on 
the  head  of  Rdvan,  who  remained  im- 
movable for  10,000  years,  till  his  grand- 
father, Pulasti,  the  son  of  Brahma, 
taught  him  how  to  propitiate  Shiva, 
and  thus  effected  his  release.  Rdvan 
afterwards  ever  remained  a  worshipper 
of  Shiva.  In  this  tale  is  depicted  the 
devotion  of  the  aboriginal  races  to  the 
worship  of  the  destroying  god. 

Dakfkd's  sacrifice  destroyed. — The 
visitor  must  now  cross  over  to  the  op- 
posite side,  passing  the  Linga  chapel, 
in  order  to  arrive  at  the  correspond- 
ing compartment  on  the  W.  to  that 
just  described    on  the  E,     Jlere  ie 


150 


Bombay  City. 


Sect.  II. 


represented  the  sacrifice  of  Dak^ha,  a 
legend  very  famous  in  Hindii  mytho- 
logy, which  is  twice  depicted  at  Eliira, 
and  more  than  once  at  the  Amboll 
caves  in  Salsette.  Daik^ha,  a  son  of 
Brahmd,  bom  from  the  thumb  of  his 
right  hand  for  the  purpose  of  peopling 
the  world,  had  60  daughters,  of  whom 
27  are  the  nymphs  of  the  lunar  aster- 
isms.  Another  of  them,  named  Satl 
or  Duigd,  married  Shiva,  and  17  were 
maiTied  to  Kasyapa,  and  were  the 
mothers  of  all  created  beings.  On  one 
occasion,  Daksha  began  a  sacrifice  ac- 
cording to  the  ancient  Vaidik  ritual, 
and  as  the  gods  of  the  Vedas  alone 
were  invited,  Shiva  and  his  wife  were 
not  asked  to  attend.  Satl  went,  never- 
theless, unbid,  and  being  badly  re- 
ceived, threw  herself  into  the  fire, 
whereupon  Shiva  made  his  appear- 
ance in  his  most  terrific  form  as  Vim 
Bhadra,  which  manifestation  of  the 
god  here  forms  the  principal  figure  of 
the  tableau.  He  dispersed  the  gods 
and  other  attendants  of  the  sacrifice, 
and  seizing  Daksha  with  one  hand, 
decapitated  him  with  another,  while 
in  a  third  he  held  a  cup,  into  which 
spouted  the  blood.  The  head  was 
hacked  to  pieces ;  but  when  Shiva's 
wrath  was  appeased,  he  put  the  head 
of  a  ram  on  Daksha's  body,  thus  keep- 
ing him  ever  in  mind  of  the  power  of 
his  decapitator.  Vlra  Bhadra  has  here 
eight  arms,  three  of  which  are  occu- 
pied in  slaughtering  Daksha,  two  are 
stretched  up,  and  tlu^e  are  broken  off. 
The  face  of  the  god  is  distorted  with 
rage,  long  tusks  project  on  either  side 
of  his  mouth,  and  a  necklace  of  human 
heads  passes  over  his  left  shoulder  and 
thigh,  and  returns  by  his  right  thigh. 
On  the  right  of  V&a  Bhadra  is  an 
elephant,  around  are  the  gods  in  atti- 
tudes expressive  of  fear,  and  above  are 
ten  figures,  two  of  which  are  children. 
They  are  seated  in  devotion  round  a 
curious  bottle-shaped  figure,  which  is 
the  Lingam,  or  Phallus,  and  is  exactly 
over  the  head  of  Vlra  Bhadra.  On  it 
is  a  curious  character,  which  Erskine 
and  Stevenson  suppose  to  be  the  mys- 
tic 0-m^  a  monosyllable  which  contains 
letters  from  the  names  of  Mahddeo, 
Yishnn,  nn:l  Brahma.  T^e  whole  gro^p 


refers  to  the  contest  between  the  fol- 
lowers of  the  ancient  Hindil  ritual  and 
the  worshippers  of  Shiva,  which  latter 
prevailed. 

Bluiirava, — ^Advancing  to  the  en- 
trance of  the  cave,  and  still  on  the 
same  side,  the  visitor  comes  to  another 
compartment.  Here  Shiva  appears  in 
his  terrific  form  of  Bhairava,  which  he 
assumed  to  outdo  the  incarnation  of 
Vishnu  as  Narsinha,  the  man-lion. 
Above  is  a  very  perfect  Ganesh  ^vith 
elephant  head.  Bhairava  has  eight 
arms,  which  are  all  broken  but  one. 
Beneath  is  Bhfingi  with  his  skeleton 
form,  and  on  the  right  is  an  attendant 
with  the  crescent  on  his  cap,  and  a 
skull,  from  the  right  eye  of  which  a 
eohra  issues.  The  appearance  of  con- 
flict is  avoided,  perhaps  in  deference 
to  the  numerous  worshippers  of  Vishnu. 

Shiva  as  an  Anoetic, — If  the  visitor 
now  turns  and  advances  a  little,  he 
will  come  in  front  of  the  last  group, 
which  is  to  the  left  of  the  grand  en- 
trance. Here  Shiva  appears  as  a  Yogi, 
and  the  figure  so  much  resembles 
Buddha,  that  many  describers  of  the 
cave  before  Erskine  thought  it  to  be 
that  personage.  The  figure  has  the 
remains  of  two  arms,  which  appear  to 
have  rested  on  his  lap.  It  is  seated  on 
a  lotus,  the  stalk  of  which  is  supported 
by  two  figures  below.  The  Brdhmans 
detest  Buddhism,  so  it  is  hardly  pos- 
sible that  this  can  be  a  figure  of  the 
genuine  Buddh;  but  perhaps  it  is 
Shiva  under  the  form  of  Buddh,  for 
there  appears  to  have  been  some  at- 
tempt to  reconcile  the  two  religions. 
At  the  two  wings  of  the  Eltira  Caves 
are  Buddhistic  excavations,  a  fact 
which  favors  the  supposition  of  an  at- 
tempt to  unite  the  creeds. 

So,  too,  Vishnu  is  said  to  have  be- 
come incarnate  in  Buddh,  to  deceive 
mankind.  Brahmd  is  seen  on  the  right 
of  the  principal  figure,  and  Vishnu,  on 
Garuda,  on  the  left.  There  is  also  a 
figure  riding  on  an  animal,  which 
Erskine  conjectures  to  be  a  horse.  It 
has  lost  the  head,  but  has  a  saddle, 
saddle  cloth,  and  girth,  like  those  used 
in  Europe.  If  it  be  a  horse,  it  is 
unique  in  these  sculptures. 

SuppUinentartj  Mvca^athm, — Oppo  ^ 


Sect  11. 


ElepJiaiUa, 


151 


site  the  Xing  chapel  first  described 
m  the  face  of  the  hill  to  the  W., 
is  a  small  excavation  dedicated  to 
Ganeshy  who  is  seate<l  at  the  S.  ex- 
tremity with  a  company  of  Shiva's 
attendants.  At  the  £.  opening  is 
a  stair  with  a  few  steps,  on  either 
side  of  which  is  a  sculptured  lion, 
leading  to  a  small  Ling  chapel,  in 
which  are  no  figures.  Round  the  hill, 
a  little  to  the  S.,  are  two  other  ex- 
cavations fronting  the  £.  These  are 
also  Ling  chapels,  with  DwdrpdU 
sculptured  outside.  On  a  hill  opposite 
to  the  Great  Cave,  an  excavation  has 
been  commenced,  but  without  much 
progress  having  been  made.  Diogo 
de  Couto,  the  Portuguese  annalist,  in 
his  8th  Decade,  Book  iii.,  chap,  xi., 
mentions  that  "a  famous  stone  over 
the  gate  (of  the  Pagoda,  as  he  calls 
the  cave  of  Elephanta),  which  had  an 
inscription  of  large  and  well- written 
characters,  was  sent  to  the  King  D. 
John  IIL,"  and  that  it  was  lost  in 
Portugal.  He  also  asserts  that,  in 
another  hill  towards  the  E.  of  the 
great  Pagoda,  there  was  another  Pa- 
goda, which  had  "  a  marble  porch  very 
curiously  executed,"  as  also  another  in 
the  same  hill  as  the  great  Pagoda, 
**  about  two  stone  throws  to  the  E.," 
*•  the  most  stupendous  work  of  its 
size."  He  adds,  that  these  Pagodas 
were  constructed  by  a  King  of  Ka- 
iiada,  named  Bandsur,  and  that  the 
Portuguese  soldiers  did  all  in  their 
power  to  destroy  them. 

Dr.  Wilson  traces  a  resemblance  be- 
tween some  of  the  compartments  at 
Elephanta  and  those  at  Elilira,  particu- 
lai'ly  in  that  which  represents  the 
marriage  of  Shiva  and  Pdrvati,  and 
considers  the  Elephanta  cave  as  of 
later  construction  than  that  at  Eliira. 
He  adds  that  the  image  of  Devi,  in 
the  form  of  a  tiger,  on  the  hill  above 
the  caves,  which  is  called  Unid-  Wdgesh' 
fearif  is  mentioned  in  the  29th  chap, 
of  the  1st  sec.  of  the  Sahyddrl  Khwiid 
of  tlie  Skanda  Purdna,  In  1851,  a 
subscription  of  2000  Rs.  having  been 
raised  at  Bombay,  the  earth  was  cleared 
from  the  front  of  the  N.  aisle,  when 
two  remarkably  well-executed  leogrififa 
of  porphyritic  basalt  were  discovered. 


Their  counterpart  may  be  seen  in  the 
*'  DhiimAr  or  Dumar  Ijend  "  at  Eliira, 
and  the  reddish  basalt  of  which  they 
are  formed  is  not  found  at  Elephanta, 
but  is  of  the  same  material  as  that  of 
which  the  temple  of  Ahalyi  B41,  at 
the  village  of  Eliira,  has  been  built. 
In  a  notice  of  these  caves  one  is  natu- 
rally reminded  of  Goethe's  lines  :— 

Auch  diese  will  ich  nicht  verschonen. 
Die  tollen  Hdhlexcavationen, 
DaB  dUiitere  Troglodytengewtlhl, 
Mit  Schnauz'  und  Rttsael  ein  albem  Spiel 
Verriickte  Zierath  brauerei, 
Es  ist  eine  saubere  Baaerei. 
Nehme  sie  Nleiuand  zum  Exempel, 
Die  Elephanten— und  Fratzen— Terapel ! 
Mit  heifigen  Gi-illen  trieben  sie  Spott, 
Man  fUhlt  weder  Natur  noch  Gott — 
In  Indien  niocht  'ich  aelber  leben, 
Hiitt'  es  nur  keine  Steinlmuer  gegeben. 

Mr.  Burgess'  account,  which  is  the 
best,  was  published  in  Bombay,  1871. 
There  are  5  caves  in  another  part  of 
the  island,  but  the  great  cave  alone  is 
much  visited.  It  is  in  the  W.  hill, 
250  ft.  above  high  water  level.  It  is 
hewn  out  of  a  hard  compact  trap  rock, 
which  has  also  been  cut  away  on  either 
side,  affording  entrances  from  the  E. 
and  W.  It  bears  a  strong  resemblance 
in  size,  plan,  and  detail  to  the  Dhii- 
mar  Len4  at  Elilira.  The  entrance 
faces  the  N.,  and  over  it  is  a  mass  of 
rock  overhung  by  trees  and  shrubs. 
The  view  from  the  front  of  the  caves, 
says  Mr.  Burgess,  is  one  of  exceeding 
beauty.  "Any  true  lover  of  Nature 
will  feel  himself  amply  rewarded  for 
his  trouble  by  the  magnificent  views 
to  be  here  enjoyed."  From  the  front 
entrance  to  the  back  the  cave  measures 
130  ft.,  and  its  length  from  E.  to  W. 
is  the  same.  The  portions  on  the  3 
open  sides  are  54  ft.  long  and  16^  ft. 
deep ;  omitting  these  and  the  back 
aisle,  the  body  of  the  cave  is  a  square 
of  91  ft.,  supported  by  6  rows  of 
columns  with  6  columns  in  a  row.  The 
columns  are  very  massive,  and  were 
26  in  number,  with  16  half  columns ; 
but  8  of  the  separate  pillars  have 
perished,  and  others  are  much  injured. 
Neither  the  floor  nor  the  roof  is  quite 
level,  so  the  columns  vary  from  7  ft, 
to  15  ft.  in  height.  The  principal  ar- 
chitectural feature  of  the  caves  is 
the  pillars,    Mr.  Burgess  has  given  a 


152 


Bombay  City. 


Sect.  II. 


drawlDg  of  one  of  the  columns,  and 
thus  describes  it : — "  First,  a  square 
shaft,  about  3  ft.  4  in.  each  way,  rising 
to  nearly  half  the  total  height  or  8  ft., 
the  upper  16  inches  of  which  is  bound 
about,  as  it  were,  by  a  band  of  very 
slight  projection;  the  next  2  inches 
is  octagonal,  and  on  the  shoulders  thus 
formed,  on  all  the  columns  within  the 
square  of  the  temple,  and  on  those 
.of  the  W.  porch,  mt  male  figures  of 
Qat}esha  or  some  other  d^a.  Above 
this  7  in.  have  shallow  flutes,  32  in. 
in  the  circumference,  and  the  next  6  in. 
in  height  is  octagonal.  From  this 
springs  the  fluted  neck  of  the  column, 
3  ft.  in  length,  and  diminishing  from 
3  ft.  1  in.  to  2  ft.  9  in.,  the  flutes  end- 
ing in  projecting  cusps  under  a  thin 
beaded  torus,  and  over  this  a  second 
line  of  cusps  project  and  curve  out- 
wards under  a  thin  fillet.  On  this 
again  rests  the  compressed  cushion- 
shaped  capital,  1  ft.  9^  in.  thick,  and 
projecting  about  16  in.  beyond  the 
face  of  the  pillar ;  the  middle  of  this 
capital  is  bound  by  a  narrow  flat  band 
breaking  its  64  flutes.  Above  is  a 
circular  neck  3  in.  deep,  and  then  a 
square  plinth  of  the  same  width  as  the 
base,  and  about  8  in.  deep.  This  last 
and  the  abacus  or  bracket  it  supports 
are  plainly  enough  imitations  of  wooden 
details.  The  bracket  slopes  away  up- 
wards on  each  side  to  the  architrave 
in  a  series  of  fanciful  scrolls,  divided  or 
connected  by  aband  over  their  middle." 
(Bock  Temples  of  Elephanta,  p.  5.) 

Hydraulic  Dock, — From  Elephanta 
to  the  Hydraulic  Lift  Dock  at  Hog 
Island  is  IJ  m.  Hog  Island  is  in  re- 
ality joined  to  the  main  land  by 
swampy  ground.  Here  Captain  She- 
rard  Osborne  proposed  to  bring  the 
G.  I.  P.  Railway  from  Fund,  and  pas- 
sengers and  goods  were  to  be  landed 
in  Bombay  by  a  steam  ferry.  The 
object  was  to  save  the  circuit  by  Kal- 
y6ii.  There  is  deep  water,  about  8 
fathoms,  close  to  the  Dock.  Water  is 
forced  by  steam  power  into  the  hy- 
draulic pillars,  and  this  lifts  the  girder. 
There  are  36  pillars  and  72  lifts.  The 
pressure  on  a  cubic  inch  is  1  ton  3  cwt 
Altogether,  23,000  tons  can  be  lifted. 
There  are  sluices  in  the  pontoon  by 


which  the  water  is  let  out  rapidly. 
The  length  of  the  pontoon  is  380  ft., 
inside  measurement,  and  the  breadth 
86  ft.  The  pontoon  weighs  1600  tons. 
The  engine  is  of  ISO-horse  power.  The 
pipes  of  the  engine  are  covered  with 
Gilroy's  patent  coating,  which  is  a 
non-conductor.  The  Lift  Dock  was 
constructed  in  1868,  by  Mr.  Edwin 
Clark,  and  the  cost  was  £350,000,  and 
the  money  expended  has  been,  up  to 
the  present  time,  uselessly  thrown  away. 
Hence  to  Thdn^  is  16  m.,  and  the  trip 
may  be  made  by  water,  and  at  fuU 
moon  in  fine  weather  the  distance  can 
be  crossed  most  agreeably. 

Yih6,r  Lake  is  15  m.  from  Bombay, 
and  the  journey  can  be  made  in  a  car- 
riage, or  the  traveller  may  go  by  the 
G.  L  P.  Railway  to  Bhdndiip,  16f  m., 
leaving  Bombay  at  8.30  A.M.  and  reach- 
ing Bhdndi:ip  at  9.33  A.M.  At  Bh&ndilip 
he  must  take  care  to  have  a  pony 
ready,  and  he  can  canter  to  the  Lake 
in  J  an  hour.  He  will  turn  to  the 
right  after  leaving  Bhtodi!ip  at  a  sign- 
post, which  is  marked  3  m.  to  Paw^. 
This  Paw^  is  a  village  belonging  to  a 
P^lrsf ,  on  the  ground  around  which  are 
16,000  mango  trees,  which  bring  in 
from  \\  Rs.  to  2  Rs.  yearly.  The  estate 
however  has  been  the  subject  of  a  law- 
suit, and  is  in  much  disoixler ;  and  the 
jungle  is  very  thick  after  leaving  PAwe 
a  m.  or  so.  From  the  gateway  called 
the  Darwdzah  of  Paw^,  it  is  2  m.  to 
the  lake,  part  of  which  is  along  a  steep 
height,  and  in  one  place  is  a  chasm 
with  only  just  room  for  the  bullocks 
of  a  native  gd^i  to  pass.  On  reaching 
the  lake  you  cross  an  embankment 
800  ft.  long;  you  then  come  to  the 
outhouses  where  the  labourers  lodge ; 
and  beyond  that  is  a  curious  embank- 
ment about  200  ft.  long.  The  great 
embankment  is  30  ft.  broad  and  30  ft. 
above  the  water,  to  which  it  slopes 
down.  The  water  is  75  ft.  deep,  of 
which  50  ft.  are  available  for  the  sup- 
ply of  Bombay  and  25  ft.  are  kept  for 
settling f  that  is,  for  allowing  the  mud 
to  be  deposited.  Fish  are  numerous, 
particularly  singara  or  "cat-fish.** 
There  are  also  many  conger-eels,  which 
grow  to  8  or  9  ft.  long.  At  the  end 
of  the  embankment  there  is  a  notice 


Sect.  II. 


Montpezir  Caves. 


153 


that  after  March,  1875,  no  person  is  to 
enter  the  Municipal  bangli  without 
showing  a  permission  from  the  exe- 
cntive  engineer  of  the  municipality. 
The  lake  is  2f  m.  long  from  N.  to  S.,  and 
2 J  m.  broad  from  E.  to  W.  A  delicious 
cool  breeze  blows  over  the  lake  from 
the  N.  It  is  however  a  dreadful 
place  for  fever,  and  out  of  76  labourers 
all  but  10  died  in  a  few  months. 
There  are  many  teal  on  the  lake,  but 
it  is  very  difficult  to  get  within  shot  of 
them,  unless  it  be  in  the  very  early 
morning.  Tigers  are  scarce  now,  but 
many  have  been  killed  there.  One 
that  was  shot  by  Mr.  Robertson,  C.S., 
had  killed  16  persons.  The  lake  covers 
1400  acres,  and  was  made  by  Mr. 
Conybeare,  C.E.,  by  damming  up  the 
Garptir  river.  It  cost  £373,660,  and 
can  supply  eight  million  gallons  of 
water  a  day.  As  fears  had  been  en- 
tertained of  a  scarcity  of  water  should 
the  supply  of  rain  in  any  year  be  un- 
usually small,  it  was  determined  to 
clam  up  the  Tulsi  Lake  also,  which 
lies  to  the  N.  This  was  done  in  1872, 
at  a  cost  of  £40,000,  and  a  pipe  has  been 
carried  tlience  to  the  top  of  Malabar  HUl. 
Montpezir  Caret.  —  These  caves, 
properly  Mandapethwar,  are  so  near 
to  the  K&nhari  Caves  that  it  will 
be  well  to  take  them  in  the  morn- 
ing and  the  Kdnharl  Caves  in  the 
afternoon.  The  traveller  will  go  to 
the  Grant  Boad  Station  and  start  by 
the  7.16  AM.  train,  local  time,  for  Bor- 
wali  Station,  224  ^^  which  he  will 
reach  about  8.30  A.M.  He  will  be  care- 
ful to  write  beforehand  to  the  station- 
master  to  have  6  Kulls  ready  for  him 
to  carry  a  chair  resting  on  bambi!is,  in 
which  he  will  sit,  and  it  would  be 
better  to  have  1  Kuli  to  carry  his  tiffin- 
basket.  .  He  will  take  an  umbrella 
with  a  thickly  padded  white  cover,  as 
the  sun  is  very  hot  even  in  the  winter 
months.  If  he  would  prefer  to  ride, 
he  must  write  beforehand  to  the  sta- 
tion-master for  a  pony.  There  is  a 
good  clean  waiting-room  at  Borwall. 
After  leaving  the  station,  proceeding 
N.,  the  road  turns  off,  at  about  200 
yds.,  into  the  fields  to  the  left.  Deep 
ruts  make  it  rather  difficult  for  the 
bearers.    In  about  an  hour  he  will 


reach  a  ruined  Portuguese  church, 
which  is  roofless,  but  is  substantially 
built,  chiefly  of  stone.  The  nave  is 
100  ft.  long  from  the  portal  to  the 
steps  of  the  altar,  and  17  ft.  more  from 
the  steps  to  the  rock  against  which  the 
E.  side  is  built,  and  34  ft.  broad.  There 
are  no  aisles.  The  arch  in  front  of  the 
altar  is  now  30  ft.  high,  and  when  the 
roof  existed  must  have  been  about 
45  ft.  W.  of  the  church,  at  a  distance 
of  182  ft.,  is  a  cross,  inscribed  at  top 
with  I.  N.  R.  I.,  which  stands  for  Jesus 
Nazareus  Rex  Judeae.  Turning  round 
the  comer  of  the  church  to  the  N.E. 
and  descending  a  little,  you  come  to  3 
caves  hewn  out  of  the  rock,  which, 
judging  from  the  pillars,  may  be  of  the 
9th  century.  The  cave  on  the  E.  is 
57  ft.  8  in.  from  N.  to  S.,  and  18J  ft. 
from  E.  to  W.  There  is  no  carving  in- 
side, but  there  are  2  pillars  in  the 
f  a9ade  shaped  somewhat  like  the  Ionic. 
Adjoining  this  cave  to  the  W.  is  a  stone 
basin  for  water,  of  which  there  is  a 
good  supply,  said  never  to  fail,  and  this 
may  be  one  reason  why  the  Portuguese 
built  here.  The  cave  which  adjoins  is 
27  ft.  3  in.  from  E.  to  W.,  and  14  ft. 
9  in.  from  N.  to  S.  In  the  W.  wall  is 
a  group  of  figures  very  much  muti- 
lated. The  principal  figure  has  4  arms, 
and  is  said  to  be  Bhim,  but  is  probably 
Shiva,  with  26  Ganas.  In  the  comer 
of  the  outside  wall  is  half  a  door  of  the 
church,  of  teak,  with  2  saints  carved  on 
it.  The  3rd  or  W.  cave  is  to  the  N.  of 
the  other  2,  and  is  49  ft.  7  in.  from  N. 
to  S.,  and  57  ft.  2  in.  from  E.  to  W. 
At  the  N.  end  is  a  partition  with  pil- 
lars leading  to  3  cells,  and  to  the  W. 
are  also  similar  partitions  with  cells. 
This  cave  was  converted  into  a  chapel 
in  A.D.  1555.  The  stone  on  which  the 
date  is  inscribed  was  originally  over 
the  entrance  door,  but  has  been  re- 
moved and  stuck  in  the  N.  part  of  the 
E.  wall,  upside  down.  The  inscription 


IS,— 


Esta  Ecclesia  fabrico  no  anno 
Mil  quinientoa  ciDcueute  cinco. 

At  the  S.  end  of  the  chapel  is  a  figure 
of  the  Virgin,  and  W.  of  it  a  confes- 
sional, on  which  some  recent  visitors 
have  scrawled  their  names.  The  chapel 
is  kept  locked,  but  the  key  can  be  ob- 


154 


Bombay  City. 


Seet»  !!• 


tamed  from  the  priest,  who  lives  J  of 
a  m.  off.  On  the  W.  side  of  this  cave 
are  4  pillars  and  2  pilasters.  The  pe- 
destal of  one  of  the  pilasters  appears 
to  liave  been  painted.  The  pillars  have 
a  taperinj?  shaft  and  an  anj^ular  capital, 
which  reaches  the  ceiling,  and  they  and 
the  room  are  12  ft.  2  in.  high.  This 
cave  was  probably  a  VihAra  cave  in 
which  10  or  12  hermits  lived.  At  200 
vds.  to  the  S.,  on  an  eminence  80  ft. 
high,  is  a  round  tower,  which  the  priest 
says  was  a  Calvarium.  It  is  40  ft.  high, 
and  has  a  place  for  a  bell  at  the  top. 
In  the  lower  part  are  rooms,  now 
choked  with  rubbish  and  bushes,  and 
the  tower  itself  is  surrounded  by  such 
a  thicket  as  makes  it  difficult  to 
reach.  The  staircase  is  on  the  out- 
side, and  in  places  there  are  apparently 
embrasures  for  guns.  The  people  about 
say  it  was  used  as  a  tower  of  defence. 
There  is  a  good  view  from  the  top  over 
the  plain,  and  about  3  m.  off  to  the  E. 
is  the  hill  in  which  are  the  KAnhari 
C'aves.  There  is  a  platform  at  about 
25  ft.  from  the  ground,  on  aline  with  the 
entrance  into  a  room  14^  ft.  diameter, 
which  forms  the  top  of  the  tower. 

T/w  Cave  Templeg  of  Kdnh-ari  {Kan- 
narl  or  Ketierif). — These  caves  are  all 
excavated  in  the  face  of  a  single  hill 
in  the  centre  of  the  island,  and  about 
5  m.  from  the  traveller's  bangld  at 
Thand,  which  is  situate  to  the  N.  of  the 
town.  Thand  is  on  the  E.  coast  of  the 
island,  opposite  the  main  land,  and  the 
caves  lie  due  W.  of  it.  There  are  109  of 
them  ;  but  though  more  numerous,  they 
are  pronounced  by  Mr.  Fergusson  *  to  be 
much  less  interesting  than  those  at 
Ajanta,  Eliir  (Ellora),  or  KArli.  The 
same  authority  considers  this  series  of 
caves  to  be  •'  one  of  the  most  modem 
of  the  Buddhist  series  in  India,  and 
that  the  greater  part  of  them  were 
executed  by  a  colony  of  Buddhists, 
who  may  have  taken  refuge  here  after 
being  expelled  from  the  continent,  and 
who  tried  to  reproduce  the  lost  Kdi'li 
in  their  insular  retreat."  He  ranks 
them  as  follows : — "  Those  in  the  ra- 
vine, in  the  4th  and  5th  century  A.D. ; 
those  on  the  S,  side,  under  the  brow 


of  the  hill,  with  those  on  each  side  of 
the  great  cave,  a  century  later ;  then 
the  great  cave ;  and  lastly,  the  un- 
finished one,  which  is  the  first  the  tra- 
veller approaches  by  the  usual  route, 
and  which  dates  about  the  9th  or  lOtb. 
century  A.D.,  or  is  even  still  more  re- 
cent." Heber  conjectures  that  the 
Kdnhori  caves  are  older  than  those  of 
Elephanta,  to  which  he  is  **not  dis- 
posed to  assign  any  great  degree  of 
antiquity  ; "  but  Caunter  ♦  speaks  of 
"sixteen  or  eighteen  hundred  years, 
the  latest  probable  date  aflsigned  even 
by  Bishop  Heber  himself  to  these  ex- 
cavations." However  this  may  be,  it 
is  at  least  certain,  to  use  Heber's 
words,  "the  beautiful  situation  of  these 
caves,  their  elaborate  carving,  and 
their  marked  connection  with  Buddk 
and  his  religion,  render  them  every 
way  remarkable." 

A  good  account  of  the  Kanhari  caves 
is  given  by  Salt,  p.  47,  vol.  i.,  Transac- 
tions of  the  Literary  Society  of  Bombay  y 
which  is  here  followed,  corrected  by  Mr. 
Burgess's  account  in  "  Cave  Temples  of 
India"  just  published.  This  writer 
speaks  of  there  being  no  regular  road  to 
them,  and  of  its  being  requisite  to  clear  a 
way  to  them  thi*ough  the  jungle,  the 
whole  of  the  part  of  the  island  where 
they  lie  being  covered  with  a  thick  and 
almost  impenetrable  jungle.  Most  of 
this  jungle,  however,  has  now  disap- 
peared. The  path  is  naiTow,  and  winds 
along  the  sides  of  rocks,  but  it  is 
quite  possible  to  proceed  along  it  in. 
pdlkls  or  on  horseback.  Most  of  the 
surrounding  hills  are  covered  with, 
jungle,  but  the  one  in  which  are  the 
caves  is  nearly  bare,  its  summit  being 
formed  by  one  large  rounded  mass  of 
compact  rock,  under  which  a  softer 
stratum  has  been  washed  out  by  the 
rains,  forming  natural  caves,  which, 
slightly  improved  by  art,  were  appro- 
priated as  cells.  The  road  which 
ascends  the  hiU  leads  to  a  platform  in 
front  of  the  great  ai'ched  cave,  where 
are  several  mounds  of  masomy.  The 
largest  of  them  was  opened  by  Dr. 
Bird,  and  many  relics  and  inscriptions 
on  copper  were  foimd.   This  is  the  first 


r-  (( 


RofU-Piit  Tei]ij»les  of  India,"  p,  34. 


"  Oriental  Animal,"  p,  373, 


Sect  IL 


The  Cave  Temples  of  Kdnlmri, 


155 


stage  of  ascent  to  the  caves,  which  con- 
sist of  six  stories,  on  the  ledges  of  the 
mountains,  connected  witli  each  other 
hj  footsteps  cut  in  the  rock.  The 
ascent  is  gradual  until  withm  a  few 
hundred  yards  of  the  southernmost, 
when  the  path  becomes  steep  and 
ragged,  and  so  closely  shaded  with 
shrubs  and  lofty  trees  as  to  conceal 
every  appearance  of  the  caves  until 
actually  in  front  of  them.  This  gives 
a  striking  effect  to  the  first  which 
comes  in  view.  Two  massive  columns, 
of  the  same  order  as  those  at  Ele- 
phanta,  support  a  plain  solid  entabla- 
ture, above  which  an  oblong  square  is 
hollowed  out.  Within  are  two  ante- 
rooms, each  about  35  ft.  broad  and 
12  ft.  deep ;  and  beyond,  an  unfinished 
chamber  26  ft.  deep.  Thei  front  screen 
has  three  doors,  and  three  windows 
over  them,  and  the  partition  between 
the  second  ante-room  and  the  inner 
chamber  has  likewise  three  doors,  and 
over  the  centre  one  a  large  open  arch, 
rising  nearly  to  the  roof.  Salt  thinks 
that  the  workmen  began  this  cave 
from  the  top,  and  worked  downwards. 
There  are  here  no  figures  or  carvings, 
and  the  details  are  of  little  interest. 
Fergusson  supposes  it  to  be  the  latest  ex- 
cavation in  the  hill,  and  to  date  in  the 
9th  or  10th  century  A.D.,  or  even  later. 
From  this  a  viliAra^  consisting  of  a 
long  irr^ular  verandah  with  cells  at 
the  back,  extends  in  a  direction  from 
south-west  to  north-east  to  the  great 
cave,  from  which  it  is  divided  by  a 
partition,  so  thin  that  it  has  been 
broken  through  by  some  accident.  It 
contains,  and  this  is  the  chief  point  of 
interest,  two  sanctuaries,  in  which  are 
dahgopas^  or  solid  masses  of  stone  or 
earth,  in  the  form  of  a  cupola.  The 
most  southern  of  these  stands  in  a 
recess,  the  thi'ee  sides  of  which  are  di- 
vided into  panels,  on  which  are  carved 
one,  two,  or  more  figures  of  Buddha 
and  of  Bodhisatwas  in  various  atti- 
tudes. Behind  the  northern  dahgopa 
Buddha  is  represented  on  a  lion-throne, 
which  rests  on  a  lotus,  whose  stalk  is 
supported  by  two  boys  with  hoods  like 
that  of  the  cobra.  From  the  main 
stem  spring  two  othera,  on  which  are 
two  youths  with  the  fans  called  clmuri^ 


and  one  with  a  lotus-head  in  his  hand. 
Above  are  two  flying  figures,  and  two 
of  priests  below,  and  a  group  is  thus 
formed,  the  fac-simile  of  which  is  seen 
at  K4rli  and  Ajayanti  (Ajunta).  One 
of  the  dahgopas  was  opened  by  Dr. 
Bird,  but  no  relics  were  found.  In 
digging  round  the  foundation,  how- 
ever, a  small  earthen  pot  was  dis- 
covered, in  which  was  a  bi-ass  serpent 
and  an  image  of  Buddha  of  baked 
earth,  inscribed  with  very  minute  cha- 
racters. 

The  Great  Cliaitya  6lif«.— Joining 
this  verandah,  in  the  manner  just  men- 
tioned, is  the  Greut  Clmitya  Caccy 
which  resembles  the  great  cave  at 
K^rli ;  but  it  is  here  even  still  more 
evident  that  the  centre  at  least  must 
have  been  roofed,  though  the  roof 
could  not  have  extended  to  the  ends, 
for  then  it  would  have  cut  across  the 
figures  of  Buddh,  23  ft.  high,  which  oc- 
cupy both  extremities.  On  the  jamb 
of  the  entrance  to  the  verandah  is  an 
inscription  of  Gautamiputra  II.,  in 
the  4th  centurv  A.D.  The  dimeu- 
sions  of  the  interior  are  somewhat  less 
than  those  of  Karli,  the  length  being 
86  ft.  6  in.,  breadth  39  ft.  10  in. ;  the 
length  and  breadth  of  the  nave,  74  ft. 
2  in.  and  39  ft.  10  in. ;  but  in  front  of 
the  cave  itself  is  a  poi*tal,  and  after 
that  a  vestibule.  In  going  fi-om  the 
verandah  to  the  Great  CavCy  you  pass  a 
small  tank.  An  ascent  of  five  steps  leads 
to  the  portal,  which  was  once  arched 
or  much  higher  than  at  present,  as  is 
proved  by  the  broken  figures  on  either 
side.  The  portal  opens  into  a  court,  in 
which  are  two  lofty  columns,  that  on 
the  right  surmounted  by  4  lions 
couchant.  Its  pedestal  is  cut  into 
panels  and  supports  an  image  of  Bud- 
dha, whose  head  is  canopied  by  five 
heads  of  the  hooded  snake.  The  left 
column  has  3  dwarf  figures  on  the  top, 
which  once,  perhaps,  supported  awheel. 
The  whole  space  at  the  further  end  of 
the  portico  is  occupied  by  the  front  face 
of  the  cave,  which  is  divided  by  plain 
columns  into  three  square  portials  be- 
neath and  five  open  windows  above, 
beyond  which  is  the  vestibule.  On  the 
right  and  left  of  the  vestibule,  in  re- 
cesses, arc  gigantic  statues  of  Buddlia, 


156 


Bombay  City. 


Sect*  II. 


23  ft.  high.  On  the  leg  of  the  left- 
hand  image  are  a  cross  and  an  inscrip- 
tion in  Boman  letters,  which,  accord- 
ing to  Dr.  Bird,  is  shown  to  be  more 
ancient  than  the  times  of  the  Portu- 
guese by  the  -Slthiopic  or  Arabic  term, 
Abuk^  "the  father,"  and  which,  ac- 
companied by  the  date  78,  with  a  re- 
semblance of  the  cross,  and  the  letters 
for  Kal  Buddha^  Buddha  Sakya^  may 
indicate  its  connection  with  primitive 
Christianity,  whose  spurious  doctrines, 
introduced  into  India,  are  supposed  by 
Wilford  to  have  given  rise  to  the  aera 
of  Sh^livdhana,  which  dates  78  years 
after  Christ.  The  court  is  parted  by  a 
screen,  over  which  was  once  a  music 
gallery,  from  a  vestibule.  The  interior 
temple  again  is  parted  from  the  vesti- 
bule by  a  second  screen,  the  figures  of 
which  are  only  remarkable  for  their 
miserable  execution.  Indeed,  all  the 
carving  and  the  general  execution  of 
this  cave  are  declared  by  Fergusson  to 
be  most  slovenly.  The  pillars  that  sur- 
round the  nave  are  of  the  same  order 
as  those  at  Kdrll,  but  much  inferior 
in  execution.  fcJix  on  one  side  and 
eleven  on  the  other  have  capitals  orna- 
mented with  figures  of  elephants  pour- 
ing water  from  jars  on  the  sacred  bo- 
tree  or  on  dahgopas,  and  boys  with 
snake  heads  are  also  introduced.  The 
remaining  fifteen  columns  are  finished 
as  plain  octagons.  These  columns 
stand  at  about  5  ft.  distance  from  the 
sides  of  the  cave,  and  thus  form  a 
narrow  aisle  on  each  side  of  the  nave, 
which  terminates  in  a  semicircle ;  and 
at  this  end  is  a  dahgopa  49  ft.  in  cir- 
cumference. 

Mr.  Fergusson  is  of  opinion  that  this 
great  Chaitya  Cave  was  excavated  after 
the  vihdra,  and  that  the  three  dahgo- 
pas  existing  at  its  threshold  are  more 
ancient  than  the  cave  itself.  As  the  spot 
had  been  regarded  as  sacred,  owing  to 
them,  some  devotee,  he  thinks,  deter- 
mined on  excavating  a  great  temple 
behind  and  between  them.  There 
being,  however,  but  thirty  feet  be- 
tween them,  the  court  in  front  of  the 
great  cave  could  only  be  made  of  that 
width,  while  the  great  cave  itself,  in 
the  rear  of  them,  swells  to  40  ft.  This 
way  of  accounting  for  dimensions  that 


are  contraiy  to  all  rules  of  architec- 
ture, seems  preferable  to  Mr.  Salt's 
supposition,  that  the  form  of  the  hill 
occasioned  such  a  plan  of  construction. 

The  Barhdr  Chve,  —  Proceeding  a 
little  to  the  N.E.  from  the  cave  just 
described,  and  turning  to  the  right, 
round  an  angle  of  the  rock,  is  a  long 
winding  ascent  by  steps  cut  in  the 
rock,  leading  to  many  smaller  caves 
in  a  ravine,  through  which  a  strong 
mountain  torrent  pours  in  the  rainy 
season.  There  are  ranges  of  caves  at 
different  heights  on  ^th  sides  the 
ravine,  communicating  by  steps  with 
one  another,  and  above  are  the  re- 
mains of  a  dam  erected  across  the 
ravine,  by  which  a  capacious  reser- 
voir was  once  formed.  The  first  cave 
on  the  right  hand  is  the  so-called 
Darh&r  Cdve^  or  "  Cave  of  Audience," 
the  finest  vih^bra  of  the  series,  and  the 
only  one  that  can  compete  in  size  with 
those  at  Ajayanti.  It  is  96  ft.  6  in. 
long,  and  42  ft.  3  in.  deep,  exclusive  of 
the  cells.  The  colonnade  goes  round 
only  tliree  sides,  and  the  sanctuary 
occupies  one  intercolunmiation  of  the 
inner  range.  It  is  scarce  9  ft.  high,  and 
therefore  too  low  for  its  other  dimen- 
sions. The  pillars  and  plan  are  similar 
to  those  of  the  Viswakarma  at  EUora. 
The  verandah  has  a  range  of  eight 
plain  octagon  piUars,  with  pilasters. 
Below  is  another  cave,  which  gives  to 
the  DarbAr  Cave  the  appearance  of 
having  two  stories.  Immediately  op- 
posite is  a  vast  excavation,  in  which 
are  a  few  fragments  of  columns  hang- 
ing to  the  roof. 

Up;per  Caves, — ^Ascending  still  higher 
from  the  platform  of  the  Great  Cave, 
the  traveller  comes  to  20  or  30  exca- 
vations, containing  nothing  of  note. 
Above  these  again  is  another  series  of 
mhdraSj  of  which  three  are  very  in- 
teresting, their  walls  being  entirely 
covered  with  figures,  finely  executed. 
The  general  design  is  Buddha  seated 
on  a  lotus.  Bemains  of  plaster  and 
painting  are  seen  here  and  there.  Mr. 
Fergusson  remarks  on  the  peculiar 
head-dress  of  the  principal  figure  in 
some  of  the  groups,  which  he  had  not 
noticed  elsewhere,  and  observes,  also, 
that  this  figure  is  attended  by  two 


Sect.  IL 


The  Gave  Temples  of  Kdhhart 


157 


female  fignres,  whereas  the  tme  Bud- 
dha is  always  attended  by  men.  On 
the  east  side  of  the  hill  is  a  broad,  long, 
and  level  terrace,  commanding  a  very 
fine  view  of  the  surrounding  country. 

The  inscriptions  at  Kduhari  have 
been  translated  and  explained  to  some 
extent,  and  Mrith  much  learning,  by 
the  Rev.  Dr.  J.  Stevenson  in  the 
"Journal  of  the  Bombay  Asiatic  So- 
ciety," vol.  v.,  No.  XVIIL,  Art.  I., 
for  July,  1853.  In  Bird's  "  Caves  of 
Western  India,"  also  will  be  found 
some  translations  furnished  to  the 
author  by  persons  acquainted  with 
Sanskrit ;  but  the  most  valuable  part 
of  the  work  lajst  named  is  the  notice 
of  discoveries  made  on  opening  the 
dahgopas,  etc.  The  following  passage 
refers  to  a  discovery  of  great  impor- 
tance made  by  Dr.  Bird  : — 

"The   tope   at    KAnhari    (Kanari) 
which  was  opened  by  me  in  1839,  ap- 
peared to  have  been  originally  twelve 
or    sixteen    feet  in  height,  and  of  a 
pyramidal  shape  ;    but    being   much 
dilapidated,  formed  exteriorly  a  heap 
of  stones  and  rubbish.    The  largest  of 
several,  being  selected  for  examina- 
tion, was  penetrated  from  above   to 
the  base,  which  was  built  of  cut  stone. 
After  digging  to    a    level  with   the 
ground  and  clearing  away  the   loose 
materials,   the  workmen   came   to   a 
circular  stone,  hollow  in  the   centre 
and  covered  at  the  top  by  a  piece  of 
gypsum.     This  contained  two  small 
copper  urns,  in  one  of  which  were  a 
ruby,  a  pearl,  and  small  piece  of  gold 
mixed  with  ashes.    In  this  urn  there 
was  also  a  smaU  gold  box,  containing 
a  piece  of  cloth,  and  in  the  other,  ashes 
and  a  silver  box  were  found.    Outside 
the    circular    stone    there  were  two 
copper  plates,  on  which  were  legible 
inscriptions  in  the  Lath  or  Cave  cha- 
racter.   The  smaller  of  the  plates  had 
two  lines  of  writing   in  a  character 
similar  to  that  met  with  at  the  en- 
trance of  the  Ajanta  caves  ;  the  larger 
one  was  inscribed  with  letters  of  an 
earlier  date.   The  last  part  of  the  first- 
mentioned  inscription  contained .  the 
Buddhist  creed,  as  found  on  the  base 
of  the  Bauddha  image  from  Tirhut, 
and  on  the  stone  taken  from  the  tope 


of  Samdthj  near  Banai'as ;  an  excel- 
lent commentary  on  which  will  be 
found  in  Mr.  Prinsep's  journal  for 
March  and  April,  1835.  The  original 
of  the  Kinhari  (Kanari)  inscription 
reads, 

"  '  Ye  dharma  hetu  prabhava 
hetuii,  tesh^n  Tathagata  hyavadat 
— t^hAncha  yo  nirodha  evam  vAdi 
Maha  Shramana.' 

"  And  may  be  translated, 

"  *  Whatever  meritorious  acts  pro- 
ceed from  cause,  of  these  the  source 
Tathagata  (Buddha)  has  declared ; 
the  opposing  principle  of  these,  the 
great  one  of  golden  origin  has  also 
demonstrated.' 

"  This  discovery  at  KAnhari  of  the 
Buddhist  confessio  Jldci  establishes  the 
Buddha  origin  of  the  cave  temples  of 
Western  India." 

The  most  curious  fact  of  all  con- 
nected with  KAnhari  is  the  existence 
there  in  ancient  times  of  a  tooth  of 
Buddha.  The  cave  over  which  in- 
scription VII.  of  those  mentioned  by 
Stevenson  is  engraved,  is  called  SAka- 
datya-lena,  the  *'  Buddha-tooth  Cave," 
probably  because  the  relic  was  there 
temporarily  deposited,  while  the  tope, 
there  compared  to  the  pole  of  the 
heavens,  in  which  it  was  finally 
lodged,  was  being  prepared.  The 
final  lodgment  (says  Dr.  Stevenson) 
of  the  tooth  was  doubtless  in  the  tope 
opened  by  Dr.  Bird,  opposite  the  great 
temple  cave,  as  appears  from  the  im- 
portant copper-plate  inscription,  of 
which  there  is  a  fac-simile  in  his 
work.  At  the  foot  of  this  inscription, 
in  very  large  letters,  is  written 
DAdhA,  "  Canine  tooth."  There  was 
no  tooth  among  the  valuables  brought 
to  light  by  Dr.  Bird  ;  but  Dr.  Steven- 
son thinks  there  was  a  secret  door  or 
passage  to  the  adytum  in  which  it 
was  contained,  for  a  plate,  in  a  cha- 
racter more  modern  than  that  above 
referred  to  by  five  or  six  centuries, 
was  found  with  it  in  the  same  mound. 
The  same  authority  therefore  supposes 
that  when  Buddhists  began  to  be  per- 
secuted in  India,  their  priests  con- 
veyed the  tooth  to  a  place  of  safety, 
and  he  is  even  of  opinion,  "  that  it  is 
not  beyond  the  bounds  of  probability 


158 


Bombay  City. 


Sect  IL 


that  the  Ceylonese  tooth,  said  to  have 
)>een  brought  from  the  other  side  of 
India,  A.D.  810,  may  be  the  identical 
Kdnhari  relic." 

Besides  the  name  of  ChAnakya,  the 
Kanhari  inscriptions  record  that  of 
Buddaghosha,  who  is  claimed  by  the 
inhabitants  of  Siam  and  Barmah  as 
their  apostle,  and  who,  the  Ceylonese 
affirm,  translated  into  PAli  or  com- 
piled the  AtthakathA  or  commentary 
on  the  sayings  of  Buddha.  There  are 
also  the  names  of  Gautamiputra  and 
Yadnya  Shrl-Sdt-Kami,  two  famous 
sovereigns  of  the  Andhra  dynasty 
mentioned  by  Pliny,  and  perhaps  that 
of  a  third,  Balin,  first  sovereign  of  the 
race.  Lastly,  there  has  been  the 
name,  now  obliterated,  of  one  of  the 
MahAkshatrapas,  kings,  who  in  the 
beginning  of  the  Christian  era  reigned 
over  the  country  on  the  Indus  and 
GujarAt,  at  first  as  satraps  of  the  Bac- 
trian  or  Parthian  monarchs,  but  after- 
wards as  independent  princes.  Di*. 
Stevenson  thinks  that  in  Dltannka- 
Kata,  who  is  mentioned  in  No.  7  in- 
scription as  an  artist,  and  in  No.  11 
of  Bird's  Kdrleii  inscriptions  as  a 
Yavan  or  Greek,  we  have  the  name  of 
the  principal  architect  of  the  excava- 
tions, whose  Greek  name  was  Xeno- 
crates.  The  whole  subject  is  worthy 
the  study  of  orientalists  and  the  con- 
tinued research  of  travellers. 

Mr.  Salt  remarks  that  "there  is, 
perhaps,  no  spot  in  the  world  where 
the  catholic  and  heathen  imagery 
come  so  closely  in  contact  as  here." 

Magathana  Caves. — Two  miles  south 
by  east  from  Montpczir  are  the  caves 
of  Magathana,  which  are)  in  a  most 
decayed  state,  and  the  entrance  over- 
grown with  thick  bushes.  It  seems 
doubtful  whether  it  would  be  worth  any 
traveller's  while  to  explore  them,  a  task 
from  which  Mr.  Salt  excused  himself. 

Jogeslirvar  Cave. — Six  miles  to  the 
south  of  Magathana  Caves  is  that  of 
Jogeshwar.  which  is  two  miles  N.E. 
of  the  village  of  Jogeshwar,  and  this 
again  is  eight  miles  to  the  N.  of 
Mahim,  the  town  at  the  N.W.  point 
of  the  island  of  Bombay.  The  W.  en- 
trance is  that  now  used ;  but  the  de- 
corations on   the  E.    side  are  more 


carefully  executed,  and  the  prin- 
cipal entrance  was  probably  there. 
Over  the  sloping  path  that  leads  to 
the  W.  entrance,  a  natural  arch  is 
formed  by  the  branches  of  a  banyan 
tree,  which,  shooting  across,  have 
taken  root  on  the  other  side,  and 
render  the  approach  singulai'ly  pic- 
turesque. Eight  steps  lead  down  to 
a  small  ante-room,  in  which  the  figures 
are  greatly  decayed.  A  door  leads  into 
the  great  cave,  and  above  this  are  two 
figures  in  the  attitude  in  which  Bdmah 
and  Sitd  are  often  represented.  The 
great  cave  is  120  feet  square,  and  18 
feet  from  the  door  are  20  pillars  of  the 
same  order  as  at  Elephanta,  forming 
an  inner  square.  Within,  there  is  a 
chamber  24  feet  square,  with  doors 
corresponding  to  each  other  on  the 
four  sides.  This  is  a  temple  sacred 
to  Mahddeo.  On  the  walls  are  the 
vestiges  of  many  figures.  Over  the 
door  at  the  east  entrance  is  a  curious 
design  of  a  monster,  with  the  mouth 
of  a  hippopotamus,  trunk  of  an  ele- 
phant, and  a  dragon's  tail,  which 
appears  to  vomit  forth  a  sculptured 
group,  representing  Kdmah  and  Sita, 
supported  by  RAvan.  From  this  en- 
trance two  vestibules  lead  to  three 
doorways,  which  again  open  into  the 
great  cave.  Over  the  doorways  are 
some  curious  designs,  as,  c.g.^  over  the 
centre  one  a  figure  resembling  Buddha, 
and  on  one  side  a  hero  leaning  on  a 
dwarf,  who  grasps  in  his  hands  two 
enormous  snakes  that  are  closely 
twined  round  his  body.  Adjoining 
the  principal  cave  are  several  vihdras. 
The  whole  locality  used  to  be  much 
infested  by  tigers,  and  Mr.  Salt  saw 
the  footprints  of  many  of  these  ani- 
mals. Mr.  Burgess  thinks  the  date  of 
this  cave  may  be  the  latter  half  of  the 
8th  century  A.D. 

BasHn. — To  visit  this  interesting 
place,  which  is  about  30  m.  N,  of 
Bombay,  the  traveller  will  leave  the 
Grant  Koad  Station  by  the  B.  B.  and 
C.  I.  Ry.  at  7.16  A.M.,  and  will  reach 
Bhaindar  Station,  284  ™v  ^^  ^-48  A.M. 
Therd  is  no  waiting-room  at  this 
station,  and  the  traveller  will  walk  j 
of  a  m.  over  heavy  sand  to  what  is 
called  the  han4ai\    This  bandar  is  so 


Sect.  II. 


BoMtn. 


159 


built  that  at  high  water  one  has  to 
scramble  on  to  the  wall  of  rough 
stones,  instead  of  being  able  to  step 
into  the  boat  at  once.  On  getting 
into  the  boat,  for  which  application 
must  be  made  beforehand  to  the 
station-master,  the  water  is  very 
shoaly  in  places,  and  unless  one  has 
a  steam  launch  it  will  take  pro- 
bably 40  minutes  to  reach  the  bandar 
at  Bassin,  which,  as  the  crow  flies,  is 
about  2  m.  off.  A  lai'ge  fishing  village 
of  huts  extends  due  S.  from  the  Fort. 
The  landing  is  at  a  jetty,  from  which 
the  road  goes  due  W.  to  the  Govern- 
ment bangla.  The  walls  of  the  Fort  are 
even  now  strong,  and  are  32J  ft.  high 
in  some  places,  and  26  ft.  in  others. 

The  fijst  notice  we  have  of  Bassin 
is  in  1532,  when  the  Portuguese 
ravaged  the  neighbourhood  and 
burned  all  the  towns  between  it  and 
Chikli  TArdpur.  In  1534  they  took 
Daman,  and  obliged  Sult&n  Bahadur 
of  Gujardt,  then  hard  pressed  by  the 
Emperor  Humdydn,  to  cede  Bassin  in 
perpetuity,  on  the  17th  of  February, 
1765.  Chimnaji  ApA,  brother  of  the 
Peshwa  B4ji  RAo  I.,  invested  Bassin, 
and  the  town  surrendered  on  the  16th 
of  May,  after  a  most  desperate  resist- 
ance, in  which  the  commandant,  Sil- 
veira  de  Mineyes,  was  killed,  and  800 
of  the  garrison  killed  and  wounded, 
while  the  Mardtha  loss  was  upwards 
of  5000.  The  capitulation  was  made 
by  Captain  de  Souza  Pereira,  and  the 
historian  of  the  Mardthas  declares 
that  it  was  the  most  vigorous  siege 
ever  prosecuted  by  that  people,  while 
another  authority  *  says  that  "  no 
contest  bad  been  so  glorious  for  the 
Indo-Portuguese."  By  the  terms  of 
capitulation,  "  all  the  garrison,  as  well 
regulars  as  auxiliaries,"  were  allowed 
free  passage  out  of  the  town,  "  with 
their  arms  in  order,  drums  beating 
and  colours  flying,  also  with  four 
pieces  of  cannon  and  two  mortars." 
The  seventh  article  declared,  "that 
the  Christians  who  remain  voluntarily 
in  the  place  shall  enjoy  the  liberty  of 
.worshipping  God  in  the  faith  they 
profess."      The   English,  who  might 

*  **'  Bombay  Quarterly  Review  "  for  July, 
1866,  No.  Aii.  p.  84. 


easily  have  saved  the  i)lace,  but,  out 
of  a  miserable  jealousy,  had  refused  all 
aid,  except  16,000  Rs.,  for  which  they 
took  the  security  of  the  church  plate 
and  some  brass  guns,  which  were  for 
the  purpose  removed  fi*om  the  de- 
fences, now  made  some  amends  for 
their  gross  indiflEerence  to  the  interests 
of  an  allied  nation.  They  sent  boats 
with  a  strong  escort  to  bring  off  the 
garrison,  permitted  them,  800  in 
number,  to  remain  in  Bombay  during 
the  monsoon,  and  advanced  4000 
rupees  monthly  for  their  support. 
But  the  disasters  of  the  gallant  Por- 
tuguese were  not  over.  On  the  29tli 
of  September  they  left  Bombay,  but, 
taking  the  overland  route  from  ChA- 
wal  (Choul)  to  Goa.  were  attacked  by 
Khem  Sdwant  with  300  horse  and  5000 
foot,  and,  after  a  furious  contest  of 
two  hours,  routed,  with  the  loss  of 
200  of  their  best  men.*  The  remnant 
escaped  to  Goa,  where  the  English 
commodore  saw  them  arrive  "with 
care  and  grief  in  their  faces."  The 
Portuguese  never  recovered  this  blow, 
and  soon  afterwards  ceded  the  forts 
of  Chdwal  and  Maira  to  the  Mardthas. 
On  the  13th  of  November,  1780, 
General  Goddard  arrived  before  Bas- 
sin, and  on  the  28th  his  first  batteiy 
opened  against  it.  He  had  very 
powerful  artillery,  and  one  battery  of 
20  mortars,  which  was  shortly  after 
opened  at  the  distance  of  500  yards, 
did  great  execution.  The  place  sur- 
rendered on  the  11th  December,  on 
which  day  Colonel  Hartley,  with  a 
covering  army  of  2000  men  defeated 
the  Maratha  relieving  army  of  up- 
wards of  24,000  men,  and  killed  its 
distinguished  General,  RAmchandra 
Ganesh. 

Before  reaching  the  bangla,  it  will 
be  advisable  to  turn  off  S.  to  a  bastion, 
which  has  an  iron  gate  with  knobs, 
16  ft.  high.  From  this  a  path  pro- 
ceeds through  a  thick  jungle  of  cus- 
tard apple  trees,  mangoes,  and  the 
creeper  which  bears  the  ganja  seed 
used  for  weights  (the  Abrus  j)7'€cato- 
riu^).  After  150  yds.  the  ruined  ca- 
thedral of   Baint  Joseph  is  reached. 

^  "Bombay  Quarterly  Kcview"  for  July, 
1856,  No.  vii.  p.  84. 


160 


Bombay  City. 


Sect.  n. 


There  is  no  roof,  but  the  walls  are 
apparently  in  good  preservation.  It 
is  not  safe,  however,  to  ascend,  as  a 
serious  accident  happened  here  some 
years  ago  to  a  climber.  The  tower  is 
60  ft.  high,  and  has  the  following  in- 
scription, 2  ft.  sq.,  over  the  door  : — 
"  No  Anno  de  1601,  sendo  Arcebispo 
Primar  o  Ill"<»  Dom  Frei  Aleixo  de 
Menezes,  e  vigario  o  Pe.  Pedro  Galao 
Pereira,  se  reformou  esta  Matriz." 
"  In  the  year  1601,  in  the  time  of  the 
most  illustrious  Primate  Archbishop 
Sr.  Dom  Frei  Aleixo  de  Menezes,  and 
the  Rev.  Pedro  Gtilao  being  Vicar, 
this  Cathedral  was  rebuilt."  In  the 
body  of  the  church,  left  of  the  en- 
trance, over  which  the  above  inscrip- 
tion is  placed,  is  a  large  slab  with  the 
following  inscription  in  Portuguese  : — 
**  To  this  grave  are  transferred  the 
bones  of  Pedro  Galao,  servant  of  the 
Lord,  who  governed  and  enlarged  this 
church.  He  died  at  Goa  on  the  19th 
of  March,,  in  the  year  1618."  This 
cathedral  was  built  about  1546,  when 
Dom  JoSo  De  Castro  was  governor,  its 
erection  being  ordered  by  Dom 
Joilo  III.,  King  of  Portugal.  It  is 
referred  to  by  the  traveller  Gemelli 
Careri.  (See  Churchill's  "Voyages," 
p.  192.)  The  learned  J.  Gerso  da 
Cunha,  in  his  notes  on  the  history 
and  antiquities  of  Bassin,  caUs  the 
slab  an  oblong  black  tomb-stone,  but 
there  seems  some  mistake  here  about 
the  colour.  He  mentions  another 
tomb-stone,  half  buried,  with  the 
name  Antonio  de  Almeida  de  Sam- 
pano  e  Sa,  at  the  W.  extremity  of  the 
uave.  At  the  end  of  the  street,  to  the 
left  of  the  Sea  Gate,  is  the  ruined 
doorway  of  the  castle,  with  the  date 
1606.  There  is  also  a  ruined  bastion 
with  an  inscription,  the  English  of 
which  is,  "  The  1st  Captain  who  built 
this  fortress  was  Garcia  de  Sa,  by  com- 
mand of  the  Governor,  Nunc  da  Cunha, 
1636."  This  is  the  oldest  inscription 
in  Bassin.  Bocarro  ("  Chronista," 
vol.  iii.  p.  243)  says  the  captain  re- 
sided in  this  bastion,  and  that  in  front 
of  the  portal  was  a  market,  which  was 
the  busiest  thoroughfare  in  the  city. 
Behind  it  are  the  ruined  palaces  of 
the  General  of  the  Korth  and  the  Cap- 


tain of  Bassin.  At  the  end  of  the  street 
leading  from  the  Sea  Gate  to  the  Pillory 
Yard  are  the  ruins  of  a  large  bmlding, 
thought  to  be  the  church  and  convent 
of  the  Augustines.  In  front  is  a  sty- 
lobate  witib.  5  steps,  and  a  portico  with 
4  pillars,  at  the  back  of  wMch  appear 
the  roy^  arms  of  Portugal.  On  the 
entablature  and  pediment  were  2  in- 
scriptions, now  removed.  Translation 
of  the  Ist : — 

While  the  Viceroy  Dom  Migael  de  Noronha, 
Count  of  Linhares,  was  governing  tiie  State  of 
India,  this  Portal  was  built,  on  which  was 
placed  St  Francis  Xavier  as  Patron  of  this 
City,  on  the  10th  of  May,  1631. 

Translation  of  the  2nd  : — 

When  Gaspar  de  Mello  de  Miranda  was 
Captain  of  this  City,  and  Goncalo  Coeila  da 
Silva,  Fero  Ferreira,  and  Jo&o  Bolo  Machado, 
were  aldermen  with  other  officers,  this  (in- 
scription) was  placed  in  this  Portal  to  St. 
Xavier,  who  was  chosen  Patron  in  1681. 

The  ruins  of  the  factory  come  next, 
and  then  those  of  the  Ambdr  or  Store- 
house, and  in  the  garden  of  the  General 
of  the  North's  Palace  are  the  ruins  of 
the  Misericordia,  a  church  with  a  hos- 
pital attached.  First  comes  a  large 
square  cloister,  the  walls  of  which  are 
most  curiously  intermixed  with  mas- 
sive shoots  and  roots  of  the  Fmut 
Indica  and  other  trees.  The  church 
has  a  stone  front  with  pillars,  and  a 
Maltese  cross  in  the  centre.  Within 
are  2  tombstones.  On  the  large  one  is 
an  inscription,  of  which  the  following 
is  the  translation : — 

The  Grave  of  Po  Cabral  de  Navais  and  of 
his  son  P.  Hieronimo  Po  Cabral  and  his  heirs. 

On  the  second  tombstone  is — 

Sa 
Da  L.  H. 
E.  D.  E. 

Opposite  the  entrance  of  the  church  is 
a  mound  of  stones,  on  which  probably 
stood  a  cross,  and  to  the  W.  is  a  temple 
of  Shiva  with  a  circular  top.  The  Bull 
or  Nandi  is  well  carved  in  stone,  and 
was  remarked  on  by  Mrs.  Heber.  Here 
is  a  fosse  60  ft.  broad  and  25  ft.  deep, 
in  which  is  water  a  few  feet  deep. 
Parallel  with  the  temple  is  the  chmxdi 
of  N.  S.  da  Vida,  one  of  the  oldest  in 
Bassin.    Here  a  sugar   rcfinery  was 


Sect.  IT. 


Basstn, 


161 


established  by  Mr.  Littlewood,  which 
is  now  abandoned.  All  the  ecclesias- 
tical buildings  are  near  this  and  be- 
tween the  Citadel  and  Land  gateway. 
To  ^e  right  of  the  chnrch  of  N.  S.  da 
Yida  is  another  church,  which  was 
made  into  a  warehouse  for  the  sugar 
factory.  This  latter  church  is  pro- 
bably that  of  the  Hospitallers,  and 
near  it  are  the  ruins  of  a  monastery. 
Further  on  are  seen  the  ruins  of  the 
monastery  and  church  of  the  Jesuits. 
The  church  has  a  fine  arch  with  co- 
lumns, of  which  the  shafts  are  fluted 
and  ^e  capitals  Corinthian.  Near  it 
are  the  ruins  of  a  college  with  the  date 
1636  over  the  door.  The  Jesuits' 
church  and  monastery  were  founded 
in  1548.  St.  Xayier  visited  Bassin  3 
times — ^in  1544, 1548,  and  again  in  the 
same  year,  when  he  founded  the  Jesuit 
Mission.  The  Jail  is  thought  to  have 
been  near  the  Captain's  palace,  but  all 
that  remains  of  it  is  a  slab  near  the 
T.  B.,  with  an  inscription  which  may 
be  thus  translated : — 

Pero  dA  Silva  being  Viceroy, 

and  Bui  Diaz  da  Cunha,  Captain  of  this 

fortress  at  the  City  of  Busm,  Dom  Luiz 

d'Athaide,  Fitmcesco  Perrelra 

and  Alvaro  Caelho  caused  this  Jail 

to  be  bnilt,  which  was  completed, 

while  Andrt  Saleme  was  Captain, 

and  Antonio  Teleo,  Tristram  .... 

Aldermen. 

The  date  is  gone,  but  Pero  da  Silva 
was  Viceroy  in  1635  to  1639,  during 
which  period  the  Jail  must  have  been 
built.  The  architecture  is  essentially 
appropriate  to  the  climate,  in  marked 
contrast  to  the  buildings  in  Bombay. 
In  the  nave  of  the  church  of  the  Jesuits 
are  2  gravestones  with  these  inscrip- 
tions:— 

Grave  of  Isabel  de  Agniar,   widow  and 
notable  benefactress  of  this  College. 

Died  24  January,  1591. 

and 

Grave  of  Dona  Filipa  da 

Fonseca,  widow  and  famous 

benefactress  of  this  church,  to  which 

she  gave,  during  her  lifetime,  all  she 

possessed.    Died  on  the  20tb  of  July,  1628. 

Beyond  is  the  church  of  S.  Antonio, 
the  oldest  and  one  of  the  largest  in 
Bassin.  ••  It  dates  from  the  time  of 
Yt.  Antonio  do  Porto,  who  built  11 

[jBoroiay— 1880.] 


churches,  conveiied  10,150  heathen, 
and  destroyed  200  Pagodas.  The 
ruins  of  the  Franciscan  church  or 
monastery  are  remarkable.  It  was  the 
largest  and  most  important  Portu- 
guese church  after  that  of  S.  Francis 
at  Goa.  To  it  were  affiliated  the 
churches  of  Espirito  Santo,  Monte 
Calvario,  Madre  de  Deva,  and  N.  S. 
da  Luz  at  Agasi  in  Salsette.  The 
arched  ceiling  of  the  principal  chapel 
is  tolerably  well  preserved.  The 
church  has  4  lateral  chapels,  in  which 
are  tombstones  inscribed  as  follows : — 

ITrantlation.J 

I. 

H.  M.  Counsellor,  died  on  the  24th  of 

August,  1568,  and  of  his  wife.  Dona 

Luiza  da  Silva  and  of  his  heirs. 

II. 

Here  lies  Dona  Francisca  da 

Miranda,  wife  of  Manoel  de 

Helo  Perreira,  founder  of  this 

Chapel,  and  her  dau£;hter  Dona  Ines  de 

Melo,  and  her  grandson  Luis  de  Melo. 

She  died  on  the  10th  of  November,  1606. 

IIL 
Grave  of  Dona  Giomar  da  Aguiar,  widow  of 
Alvaro  de  Lemos.  May  he  be  with  God !  Died 
on  tlie  11th  of  March  of  W  (1596).    Hera  and 
her  son's. 

In  the  third  chapel  right  of  the 
chancel  are  two  tombstones  inscribed 
as  folloYTs: — 

I. 

This  tombstone  was  placed  by 

Dona  Sra  de  Barredo  for  her 

Interment  in  the  grave  of  her  husband 

Antonio  Tello  de  Menezes,  who 

died  on  the  26th  of  October,  1676.    This 

Grave  was  purchased  by  Mimoel  de 

Carvalhar  Pereira  and  his  heirs.     Our  Father. 

IL 
In  the  reign  of  the  most  high  and  puissaut 

King 

D.  JoSo  de  Portugal,  III.  of  the  name. 

When  the  Viceroy  D.  Affonso  de  Noronha  was 

governing  India, 
Son  of  the  Huquls  of  Villa  Real,  and  when 

Francisco 
De  S&  was  captain  of  this  fortress  and  of  the 

city 

of  Bassin.    This  bastion  was  founded  under 

tiie  name  of  San 

Sebastian  on  the  22nd  of  February 

In  the  year  1554. 

A  few  yards  from  this  bastion  is  a 
tombstone  inscribed, — 

Here  lies  the  body  of  .  .  .  Durban,  wife 
of  Andrew  Durban,  Surgeon,  who  departed 
this  life  in 

M 


162 


licnUe  1. — Bombay  to  Mdtherdn. 


Sect.  II. 


There  is  a  cayemoiu  passage  towards 
the  riyerside,  where  the  air  is  so  me- 
phitic  as  to  extinguish  a  light.  An 
ancient  street,  almost  parallel  to  the 
new  high  road,  leads  through  the 
middle  of  the  Fort  to  the  Sea  gate- 
way. Fryer,  in  1675,  says,  here  were 
"stately  dwellings,  graced  with  co- 
Tered  balconies  and  large  windows 
two  storeys  high,  with  panes  of  oyster 
shell,  which  is  the  nsoal  glazing  among 
them  (the  Portuguese)  in  £dia,  or 
else  latticed.*'  In  a  waU  to  the  left 
of  the  street,  near  the  newly-built  cot- 
tages for  the  men  who  worked  at  the 
Sugar  Factoiy,  is  a  slab  5}  ft.  long  and 
2  ft.  broad,  inscribed  as  follows : — 

[Traihflation.'] 

These  cottages 

were  built  by 

SamEafoe 

Sae  *  *  in  the  year 

1617. 


The  rest  of  the  inscription  is  much 
obliterated.  Close  by  these  buildings 
is  the  chapel  of  N.  S.  da  Annunciada, 
which  was  under  the  care  of  the  Augus- 
tines.  The  altar  faces  the  N.  There 
.is also  an  ornamented  bath-house  built 
of  hard  cement.  The  churches  at  Bas- 
sin,  of  which  the  principal  have  been 
mentioned,  have  square  towers  without 
spires.  The  roofs,  now  fallen,  were 
very  steep  and  covered  with  tiles.  In 
the  Jesuit  church  there  were  remains  of 
a  handsome  ceiling  of  teak,  carved  and 
gilded.  The  tombs  of  Don  Lorenzo, 
who  encountered  the  Turkish  Armada 
near  Din,  and  of  Alfonso  Albuquerque, 
who  first  took  Qoa,  are  said  to  have 
been  here.  Heber  notices  the  monu- 
ment of  Dona  de  Souza,  dated  1606. 
The  learned  Doctor  da  Cunha  of  Bom- 
bay has  lately  published  a  valuable 
account  of  Bassln. 


ROUTE  1. 

BOMBAY  TO  MATHBBAN. 

Mdtherdn, — This  word  is  derived 
from  M&thd,  ''crest  of  a  hill,"  and 
Rdn,  "  wood  or  forest,"  it  being  a 
jungly  hill  on  the  crest  of  the  Ghdts. 
The  traveller  will  proceed  to  this  place 
by  the  G.  I.  P.  Railway,  S.E.  division. 
ThJB  line,  which  starts  from  the  Fort 
of  Bombay,  approaches  the  B.  B.  and 
C.  L  By.  very  closely  at  Parell  Station, 
and  continues  in  near  proximity  to 
Dddar  Station,  and  then  begins  to  di- 
verge and  crosses  from  Bombay  into 
Salsette  by  the  causeway  at  Sion  and 
Eurla,  while  the  B.  B.  and  C.  I.  crosses 
to  Salsette  from  Mahim  to  Bandora. 
The  railways  continue  to  diverge,  and 
from  Kalydn  Junction  Station  the 
G.  I.  P.  turns  to  the  S.E.  to  go  to  Pun4 
and  Madras,  whilst  its  K.£.  division 
goes  on  to  Ndshik  and  Jabalpiir.  On 
this  line  1st  and  2nd  class  return  tick- 
ets, available  forretum  any  day  witiiin 
2  calendar  months,  are  issued  at  all 
stations  to  all  stations  throughout  the 
Une.  Holders  of  such  tickets  can  break 
their  journey  either  way  as  often  and 
as  long  08  they  like  within  the  two 
months,  provided  they  do  not  travel 
more  than  once  in  the  same  direction. 
Coupon  or  special  tickets,  1st  and  2nd 
class,  are  issued  from  Bombay  or  Byk- 
allah  Station  to  Khand414  or  N^cl 
from  1st  October  to  31st  May,  and  to 
Pun4  or  Ehirki  from  1st  June  to 
30th  Sept.  for  use  up  or  down  any  time 
within  two  months,  so  that  the  holders 
may  make  4  journeys  each  way.  These 
tickets  are  chargeable  as  follows : — 

Bombay,  or  Bvkallah,  to  N&rel,  Ist  class, 

Bs.  24 ;  2nd  class,  Rs.  13. 
Bombay,  or  Bykallah,  to  KhandAl^,  1st  class, 

Rs.  40 ;  2nd  class,  Bs.  20. 
Bombay,  or  Bykallab,  to  Puni  or  Khirki,  1st 

class,  Bs.  60 ;  2nd  class,  Bs.  30. 

Holders  of  single  journey  tickets  of 
all  classes  are  allowed  one  day  for 
every  100  m.  or  part  of  100  m.  to  break 
their  journey,  but  the  tune  must  not 
exceed  the  time  occupied  by  the  train 
plus  the  1  day  for  each  100  m.    The 


RoiUe  1. — .Vdl/unlii. 


164 


Rovie  1. — Bombay  to  Mdtlierdn, 


Sect.  IT. 


traveller  having  taken  his  ticket  to 
N4rel,  or  Neral,  will  not  have  occafiion 
to  stop  anywhere  before  reaching  that 
station.    He  will  take  care  to  have 
written  to  the  station  master  to  have  a 
pony  or  a  tonjan  with  6  men  to  carry 
him  up  the  hill.    The  ascent  will  take 
about  1}  hr.      The  Ist  m.  is  mostly 
over  level  ground,  which  extends  fi'om 
NArel  to  low  hills  at  the  foot  of  the 
higher  hill   of    M4ther4n.      The  1st 
milestone  marks   an  ascent  of  only 
126*70  ft.     The  tonjon  is  a  sort  of  long 
chair  with  poles  to  carry  it  by,  and 
seated  in  it,  the  traveller  is  much  above 
the  bearers'  heads.     In  the  next  mile, 
which  rises  to  576'13  ft.,  the  road  be- 
gins to  skirt  precipices.    The  3rd  m. 
brings  the  altitude  to  975*38  ft.,  and  the 
4th  rises  to  1526-07  ft.    At  the  end  of 
the  5th  m.  the  height  of  2138*49  ft.  is 
reached.  The  6th  m.  brings  the  traveller 
to  the  plateau  on  the  top  of  Mdther^n 
Hill,  which  is  2283*95  ft.  above  the  sea 
level.    The  7th  m.  reaches  2375*71  ft., 
and  the  8th  m.  descends  to  2109*30  ft. 
From  the  3rd  m.  the  ascent  is  very 
steep  indeed,  but  the  greater  part  of 
the  way  luxuriant  trees  clothe  the  side 
of  the  hill,  and  cloak  the  precipice. 
The  Alexandra    Hotel    is    near   this 
point  where  the  road  first  descends. 
It  must  be  said  that  the  food  is  not 
very  appetizing.     There  is  an  account 
of  the  hills  by  Dr.  J.  Y.  Smith,  which 
may  be  read  by  the  traveller  before 
proceeding  to  a  personal  inspection. 
The  church  is  200  yds.  from  the  Alex- 
andra Hotel,  and  is  a  neat  structure, 
capable  of  holding  240  people.    Over 
the  Communion-table  is  a  handsome 
stained-glass  window,  given  by  Michael 
Scott,  merchant  of  Bombay,  who  ob- 
tained great  wealth  during  the  cotton 
famine,  but  speedily  lost  it.  The  church 
is  called  St.  Paul's,  and  is  in  charge  of 
the  junior  chaplain  of  Bombay  Cathe- 
dral, and  there  is  service  regularly 
during  the  season  and  at  Christmas  at 
7.30  A.M.  and  5.30  PJi.    There  is  a 
library,  the  subscription  to  which  is 
Rs.  5  for  the  1st  month,  8  for  the  2nd, 
2  for  the  3rd,  and  so  on.    There  are 
also  grounds  for  croquet,  badminton, 
and  lawn  tennis.    The  charge  for  con- 
yeyance  is  as  f oUowb  :  for  a  p&lkl  or 


tonjon  with  12  bearers  between  Ndrel 
and  Mdther^n,  including  the  carriage 
back  of  the  empty  pAlki,  Rs.  8  ;  but  at 
night,  Rs.  8. 6  4s.  For  a  p&lki  or  tonjon 
for  a  day  on  the  hill,  Rs.  3^.    Three 
hours  are  reckoned  for  a  half  day,  and 
the  charge  is  R.  1. 12  a. ;  for  2  hrs.  the 
charge  is  R.  1. 8  ds.  and  for  1  hr.  R.  1 . 1  a. 
A  pony  between  Ndrel  and  M&therdn 
costs  Rs.  2,  and  the  same  for  a  day  on 
the  hilL    A  kuU  between  NArel  and 
Mdtherdn  costs  Bis,  A  pony  for  a  ser- 
vant between  N4rel  and  Mdtherdn,  or 
for  a  day  on  the  hill,  costs  R.  1.  4  As, 
One  of  the  first  points  to  visit  is  Alex- 
andra Point,  which  is  8100  ft.  or  about 
IJ  m.  from  the  church  to  the  N.E. 
The  view  is  very  beautiful,  resembling 
those  from  Sydney  and  Elphinstone 
Points    at    Mahdbaleshwar.     To    the 
right  of  the  traveller  as  he  looks  down 
from  Alexandra  Point  will  be  seen  the 
old  road  to  Chauk,  by  which  Hugh 
Poyntz  Malet  ascended  when  he  dis- 
covered M&ther&n  in  1850.   There  is  a 
thick  belt  of  primeval  forest  half  way 
up  the  mountain  through  which  the  road 
passes.    This  old  road  is  most  difficult 
and  steep.    Chauk  is  a  stiflingly  hot 
village  about  14  m.  N.  of  Panwell,  on  the 
road  to  PunA,  and  about  5  m.  S.S.W.  of 
Alexandra  Point.    About  1  j  m.  to  the 
left  the  traveller  will   see    Gharbat 
Point,  from  which  a  long  narrow  ridge 
runs  tapering  down  into  the  low  coun- 
try, and  this  ridge  bounds  the  view  in 
that  direction.    The  next  day  should 
be  spent  in  a  visit  to  Panorama  Point, 
which  is  to  the  N.  W.  of  the  hotel.  The 
distance  is  21,600  ft.  or  a  little  over  4 
m.  The  road  leads  through  a  thick  jun- 
gle of  beautiful  trees,  in  the  branches 
of  which,  about  8  or  10  ft.  from  the 
ground,   will  be   observed    globular 
masses  like  fungi  about  1  ft.  in  diame- 
ter with  leafy  projections.    These  are 
the  nests  of  black  ants,  which  bite  ve- 
nomously, and  their  nests  are  conse- 
quently seldom  disturbed.  About  J  m. 
from  Panorama  Point  the  road  comes 
to  a  point  parallel  with  a  place  called 
Porcupine  Point.    Here  the  traveller 
may,  if  he  pleases,  dismount,  as  there 
is  a  precipice  to  the  left  of  1000  ft. 
At  100  yds.  from  its  termination  the 
road  goes  quite  round  the  brow  of  the 


Sect.  11. 


jRoute  1. — MdtJierdn. 


165 


peak,  and  here  there  is  a  truly  beauti- 
ful panoramic  view  of  the  country 
from  which  the  point  gets  its  name.  The 
traveller  will  have  to  his  left  Hart 
Point  and  Porcupine  Point,  the  latter 
called  from  the  number  of  porcupines 
which  are  found  there.  Far  in  the  dis- 
tance is  Prabal  Point,  where  there  is  a 
fort  of  the  same  name,  which  signifies 
"  Mighty."  Between  M4ther4n  and 
Prabal  the  mountain  sinks  down 
abruptly  to  the  plain,  forming  a  huge 
chasm.  Below  and  in  a  line  with 
Panorama  Point  is  the  Bhdo  Mallin 
(or  B&W&  Malang)  Range,  10  m. 
long,  with  strange  cylindrical  or 
bottle-shaped  peaks.  Captain  George 
Mackenzie,  of  the  Queen's  Royal  regt., 
in  his  Series  of  Pen  Sketches  of  the 
scenery  in  the  Presidency  of  Bombay, 
has  given  views  of  Chauk,  Pi'abal,  and 
the  Bh4o  Mallin  Range.*  The  huts  of 
NArel  village  lie  directly  below,  and 
beyond  them,  due  N.  is  the  curving 
line  of  the  G.  I.  P.  Ry. ;  thus  Ndrel  is 
seen  to  be  S.  of  the  railway,  and  Md- 
therdn  S.  of  Ndrel.  M&therdn  is  28  m. 
due  E.  of  the  Fort  of  Bombay,  and 
Ndrel  is  30)  m.  £.  of  Mazagdon  and 
9  m.  N.N.E.  of  Chauk,  which  again  is 
4  m.  S.  of  Koldba  Lighthouse.  In  the 
evening  a  ride  may  be  taken  to  the 
new  Band  or  embankment,  which  is 
about  IJ  m.  N.  of  the  hotel.  It  is  of 
very  hard  blue  stone,  which  is  quarried 
on  the  spot.  The  embankment  is  100  ft. 
long  and  6  ft.  broad  at  top.  There  are 
other  points  which  may  be  visited  in 
the  hills,  but  none  equal  to  those  al- 
ready mentioned.  A  whole  day  may 
be  well  spent,  or  even  2  days,  in  visit- 
ing Prabal.  The  traveller  will  start 
from  Louisa  Point ;  this  point  over- 
looks a  majestic  cliff,  whence,  in  the 
rainy  season,  descends  a  cataract  100 
ft.  in  width,  which  bounds  into  the 

*  Bh&o  Hallln  has  its  name  from  a  Mu^am- 
madan  saint,  who  chose  it  for  his  residence. 
On  the  summit  are  the  remains  of  a  fort,  to 
which  the  only  means  of  access  was  a  flight  of 
narrow  steps  cut,  or  rather  notched,  in  the 
rock,  with  a  miserable,  shaky  wooden  banis- 
ter, quite  insecure.  This  frightftil  ascent  of 
200  ft.,  perpendicular,  at  the  top  of  a  moun- 
tain, wfa«re  a  gust  might  sweep  the  climber  in 
a  moment  to  destruction,  was  destroyed  by 
Captain  Dickinson,  about  60  years  ago,  by 
order  of  Government. 


valley  below  by  a  single  leap  of  1000 
ft.  Here  at  times  the  wind  is  so  strong 
and  gusty,  that  the  cataract  seems  to 
struggle  against  it  in  dubious  conflict, 
and  the  water  with  difficulty  seems  to 
force  its  way  through  the  troubled  air. 
Hence  descend  H  m.  to  a  Thikilr  vil- 
lage on  the  middle  plateau.  Here 
guides  must  be  procured.  A  descent 
will  then  be  made  to  the  low  country 
by  a  deep  valley  or  ravine  shaped  like 
a  V  ;  after  2  m.  a  watercourse  will  be 
reached,  and  after  that  several  spurs 
of  the  mountain  must  be  crossed  about 
100  ft.  high,  and  so  steep  as  to  require 
great  care  in  crossing  them.  They 
taper  up  to  summits  which  are  only  a 
few  feet  wide.  You  then  come  to  an- 
other middle  ground  which  is  very 
steep  and  1600  ft.  high  ;  traces  of 
tigers  will  be  seen  here.  This  plateau 
is  13:^  m.  from  MAtherAn,  and  must  be 
crossed  in  a  S.  direction  for  1 J  m.  to  a 
watercourse  which  runs  at  right  angles 
to  the  first  watercourse.  You  then  as- 
cend 2  m.  to  Prabal  plateau,  from 
which  precipitous  rocks  rise  to  from 
600  to  1000  ft.  Prabal  Fort  is  2400  ft. 
above  the  sea,  but  the  highest  part  of 
the  mountain  on  which  it  is  situated 
is  4000  ft.  From  the  fort  there  is  a 
fine  view  of  the  Cathedral  Rock  near 
BhAo  Mallin.  At  a  mile  from  Prabal 
Fort  is  a  tank  cut  in  the  solid  rock, 
10  ft.  deep,  30  ft.  long,  and  15  broad. 
There  arc  other  forts  and  buildings, 
and  the  locality  has  been  very  little 
explored.  If  the  traveller  has  time  to 
stop  a  few  days,  he  would  be  sure  to 
have  sport  with  tigers  and  panthers. 


166     JRoiUe  2,— Bombay  to  Tlidnd,  Kalydn,  and  Amamdth.    Sect.  II. 


ROUTE  2. 

BOMBAY  TO   THANA,  KALTAn,  AND 
AMAENATH. 

TTulnd. — It  will  be  seen  from  the  Time 
Table  given  in  the  preceding  route 
that  ThAnA  is  20f  m.  from  Bombay, 
and  starting  by  the  train  which  leaves 
Bykallah  at  6.2  A.M.  the  traveller  will 
reach  Thdnd  at  7.15  A.M.  The  town 
itself  presents  little  attraction  to  the 
tourist.  The  railway  to  it  was  first 
opened  on  the  16th  of  April,  1853.  In 
1320  A.D..  4  Christian  companions  of 
the  Italian  friar,  Odoricus,  here  suf- 
fered martyrdom.  In  April,  1737,  it 
was  taken  from  the  Portuguese  by  the 
Mard^has  under  the  first  B4jl  RAo 
PeahwA,  after  a  gallant  defence.  At 
this  time  the  country  round  ThAn4 
was  highly  cultivated,  and  the  travel- 
ler's eye  (see  Anderson's  "Western 
India ")  rested  at  every  half  mile  on 
elegant  mansions,  2  of  which  deserve 
special  mention  :  one,  the  property  of 
John  de  Melos,  was  3  m.  from  Thdnd  ; 
it  stood  on  a  sloping  eminence,  deco- 
rated with  terraced  walks  and  gardens, 
and  terminating  at  the  water  side  with 
a  banqueting-house,  which  was  ap- 
proached by  a  flight  of  stone  steps.  A 
mile  further  was  Grebondel,  the  pro- 
perty of  Martin  Alphonso,  said  to  be 
"the  richest  Don  on  this  side  Goa." 
Above  rose  his  fortified  mansion 
and  a  church  of  stately  architecture. 
This  prosperity  was  ruined  by  the 
Mar4tha  irruption  and  occupation 
of  the  island  of  SA^hti  or  Salsette, 
of  which  they  retained  possession 
till  1774.  In  that  year  (see  Grant 
Duff's  "History  of  the  MarAthas," 
vol.  ii.  p.  276)  the  Portuguese  sent 
a  formidable  armament  from  Eu- 
rope, for  the  avowed  purpose  of  reco- 
vering their  lost  possessions.  This 
circumstance  becoming  known  to  the 
Government  of  Bombay,  Mr.  William 
Hornby,  the  Governor,  determined  to 
anticipate  their  enterprise,  and  seize 
upon  the  island  for  the  English.  In 
the  beginning  of  December  a  force  of 
620  Europeans,  1000  Sipahts,  and  200 


gun  laskars,  was  prepared  under  Gene- 
ral Robert  Gordon  for  the  reduction  of 
ThAnA.  The  batteries  opened  on  the 
26th  of  December,  and  on  the  night  of 
the  27th  an  attempt  to  storm  was  re- 
pulsed, with  the  loss  of  100  Europeans 
killed  and  wounded  ;  but  next  even- 
ing a  second  assault  was  more  suc- 
cessful, when  almost  all  the  garrison 
was  put  to  the  sword.  The  3rd  day 
of  the  siege  was  marked  by  the  loss  of 
Commodore  J.  Watson,  the  manner  of 
whose  death  was  most  singular.  A. 
cannon  shot  struck  the  ground  close  to 
him  and  drove  the  particles  into  his 
body.  On  March  6th,  the  PeshwA 
RaghubA,  by  the  treaty  of  Wasal  (Bas- 
sln)  ceded  the  island  of  SAshti  (Sal- 
sette) in  perpetuity.  By  the  conven- 
tion of  Wargdbn,  concluded  in  January, 
1779,  this  acquisition  with  all  others 
was  to  be  restored  to  the  Mar&thas, 
but  Mr.  Hornby  disavowed  the  treaty, 
and  determined  at  all  risks  to  resist  the 
cession.  Whether  ThdnA  was  ever  really 
given  up  does  not  appear  ;  but  if  so,  it 
was  recovered  the  next  year,  when 
General  Goddard  captured  Bassin.  In 
1816,  Trimbakji  D4ngUa,  the  cele- 
brated minister  of  Bdjl  Il&o,  the  last 
PeshwA,  effected  his  escape  from  the 
fort  of  Th&nA,  though  guarded  by  a 
strong  body  of  European  soldiers.  The 
difficulties  of  this  escape  were  greatly 
exaggerated  all  over  the  Mar^t^  coun- 
try, and  it  was  compared  to  that  of 
Shivaji  from  the  power  of  Aurangzlb. 
The  principal  agent  in  this  exploit  was 
the  Mar&tha  horse-keeper  in  the  ser- 
vice of  one  of  the  English  officers  of 
the  garrison,  who,  passing  and  re-pass- 
ing Trimbakjf  s  cell,  as  if  to  exercise 
his  master's  horse,  sang  the  informa- 
tion he  wished  to  convey  in  a  careless 
manner,  which  disarmed  suspicion. 
Heber,*  who  had  seen  Trimbakji  im- 
prisoned in  the  fort  of  ChunAr,  was 
much  interested  in  this  escape,  and 
speaks  of  it  thus — 

"  The  groom's  singing  was  made  up 
of  verses  like  the  following  : — 

Behind  the  bash  the  bowmen  hide, 

The  horse  beneath  the  tree, 
Where  shall  I  find  a  knight  will  ride 

The  Jangle  paths  with  me  ? 


Vol.  ii.  p.  8. 


i 


Sect.  II. 


Houte  2. — Kalydn, 


167 


There  are  five-and-fifty  coursers  there. 

And  four-and-flfty  men ; 
When  the  fifty-fifth  shall  mount  his  steed, 

The  Deckan  thrives  d^m. 

This  might  have  been  a  stratagem  of 
he  Scottish  border,  so  complete  a 
imilarity  of  character  and  incident 
oes  a  resemblance  of  habit  and  cir- 
jumstance  produce  among  mankind." 
The  same  writer  comments  on  the 
*  neglected  and  uncivilized  state  of 
Salsette  *'  after  it  had  been  so  long  in 
;he  hands  of  the  English.  Heber 
ds  that  Thdnd  is  chiefly  inhabited 
y  Roman  Catholic  Christians,  either 
converted  Hindtis  or  Portuguese,  v^ho 
have  become  as  black  as  &e  natives 
and  assume  all  their  habits  ;  he  also 
describes  the  place  as  neat  and  flourish- 
ing, and  famous  for  its  breed  of  hogs, 
and  the  manner  in  v^hich  the  Portu- 
guese inhabitants  cure  bacon.  The 
church,  v^hich  he  describes  as  small, 
but  extremely  elegant  and  convenient, 
was  being  built  when  he  arrived,  and 
on  July  the  10th,  1825,  it  was  conse- 
crated by  him.  The  neighbourhood 
was,  from  the  time  of  the  Bishop's 
visit  till  1844,  notorious  for  its  rob- 
beries ;  but  rigorous  measures  being 
then  taken,  these  disorders  were  sup- 
pressed. Shortly  before  that  date,  the 
Knglish  judge  having  incautiously  en- 
tered yntYi  too  few  attendants  among 
he  large  number  of  prisoners  confined 
the  jail  there,  was  seized,  and  was 
thin  a  hair's  breadth  of  being  exe- 
crted  by  them.  The  rope  was  already 
roS^d  his  neck  when  help  arrived.  The 
f  Thdni  is  now  a  jail ;  the  wall 
ft.  high ;  it  has  contained  850 
perhaps,  but  in  1876  there  were  only 
608,  «  whom  73  were  women,  who  re- 
ceive^o  instruction  except  in  weaving. 
After  the  age  of  45  they  are  not  sent 
to  the  Andamans,  and  a  woman  above 
that  age  in  order  to  go  to  her  son  con- 
fessed to  a  crime  which  she  had  not 
committed,  and  was  much  distressed  to 
find  that  she  would  not  be  sent  there. 
In  the  centre  are  the  remains  of  BAjl 
Bdo's  office,  which  is  to  be  removed,  in 
order  that  a  centrjil  tower  may  be 
built. 

The  23rd  milestone  from  Bombay  is 
close  to  the  Collector's  office  at  Th&nd, 


and  the  Yih&r  Lak^  is  5^  m.  off,  so 
that  if  the  traveller  chooses,  he  may 
visit  that  lake  from  this  town.  A  good 
view  is  obtained  from  the  church, 
which  is  ascended  by  69  steps,  and  is 
J  m.  W.  of  the  fort,  and  about  the 
same  distance  from  the  Collector's 
house.  On  the  E.  side  of  the  church  is 
a  garden,  well  kept,  and  on  the  W.  the 
cemetery.  There  are  one  or  two  rather 
old  tombs  in  the  cemetery,  as,  for  in- 
stance, that  of  John  Halsey,  chief  of 
Scdsette,  who  died  March  3rd,  1785 ; 
Gregory  Page,  chief  of  Salsette,  who 
died  in  November,  1794,  is  also  buried 
here,  as  is  Stephen  Babington,  who 
died  from  injuries  received  at  a  fire  at 
Wasauli,  a  neighbouring  viUage.  His 
monument  in  Bombay  Cathedral  has 
been  mentioned,  the  statue  being  by 
Chantrey. 

Kaly&i^,  33J  m.  from  Bombay,  This 
is  a  very  ancient  town,  and  in  early 
times,  no  doubt,  was  the  capital  of  an 
extensive  province.  There  is  good  rea- 
son to  think  that  a  Christian  Bishop 
resided  at  Kalydn  In  the  beginning  of 
the  6th  century  a.d.  Thus  when  Cos- 
mos Indicopleustes  sailed  down  theW. 
coast  of  India,  he  found  at  "  Male, 
where  the  pepper  grows,  a  regulaiiy 
ordained  clergy,  and  at  Kalhana,  a 
Persian  bishop. '  When  the  Mu^am- 
madan  power  extended  itself  over  the 
Dakhan,  the  province  of  Ealy&ni  fell 
to  All^madnagar,  but  was  ceded  by  that 
state  to  BijEpiir  in  1636,  and  being 
divided  into  two,  the  N.  part  extend- 
ing from  Bhiwadi  to  N^athdnah,  was 
placed  under  a  new  Governor,  who  re- 
sided at  Ealydn.  In  1648,  Abbaji 
Sondeo,  a  Brdhman  general  under  Shi- 
vaji,  surprised  Kalydn,  and  was  ap- 
pointed by  Shivaji  §AbahdAr  of  the 
province.  In  1780,  the  Mard^has  hav- 
ing cut  off  the  supplies  from  Bombay 
and  Salsette,  wMch  were  usually 
brought  to  those  places  from  the 
mainland,  and  were  so  necessary 
to  the  inhabitants  of  Bombay,  the 
Government  of  that  place  determined 
to  occupy  the  Koiikan  opposite  Thdn4 
as  far  as  the  Gh&ts.  Accordingly, 
several  posts  were  seized,  and  Kalydn 
amongst  them  ;  and  here  Captain 
Richard  Campbell  was  placed  with  a 


168    Eoute  2. — Bombay  to  Thdnd,  Kalydn,  arid  Amamdth,    Sect.  II. 


garrison.  N4n4  Farnayls  forthwith  as- 
sembled a  large  force  to  recover  Eal- 
j&a,  on  which  he  set  a  high  value,  and 
his  first  operations  were  very  success- 
ful. He  attacked  the  English  ad- 
vanced post  at  the  Gh^t^,  consisting 
of  4  European  officers,  2  companies  of 
Sip&hls,  and  some  European  artillery- 
men with  3  guns,  captured  the  guns, 
and  killed  or  made  prisoners  the  whole 
detachment.  He  tnen  compelled  En- 
sign Fyf e,  the  only  surviving  officer, 
to  write  to  Captain  Campl^ll  that, 
unless  he  surrendered,  he  would  put 
all  his  prisoners,  26  in  number,  to 
death,  storm  Kalydn,  and  put  all  the 
garrison  to  the  sword.  To  this  Camp- 
bell replied  (see  Grant  Duff,  vol.  i. 
pp.  139,  141,  and  vol.  ii.  p.  414)  that, 
"  the  Ndnd  was  welcome  to  the  town 
if  he  could  take  it,"  and,  after  a  spi- 
rited defence,  was  relieved  by  Colonel 
Hartley,  on  the  24th  of  May,  just  as 
the  Mar&thas  were  about  to  storm. 
The  remains  of  buildings  round  Kal- 
j&a  are  very  extensive,  and  Fryer, 
who  visited  the  place  in  1673,  "  gazed 
with  astonishment  on  ruins  of  stately 
fabrics,  and  many  traces  of  departed 
magnificence." 

It  is  especially  deserving  of  notice 
that  the  inscriptions  at  K&nhari,  which 
are  marked  XIV.  and  XV.  by  Dr. 
Stevenson  in  his  paper  in  the  Bombay 
Asiatic  Society's  Journal  for  July,  1853, 
establish  the  fact  that  Chdnakya,  the 
famous  preceptor  and  prime  minister 
of  Chandra-gupta  or  Sandrocottus,  was 
a  native  of  Ksdydn.  He  is  called  in 
the  inscriptions  Dimila,  which  signi- 
fies Malabarian.  The  XV.  inscription 
runs  thus : — **  To  the  Perfect  One.  To 
D4mila,  inhabitant  of  Kalydn,  famed 
throughout  the  world,  and  purified, 
the  religious  assignation  of  a  cave  and 
cistern  in  the  Kanha  Hill."  It  is 
shown  by  Wilford  in  "  Asiatic  Re- 
searches," vol.  ix.,  that  ChAnakya 
finished  his  life  as  a  penitent  or  reli- 
gious recluse,  and,  being  a  native  of 
Kalydn,  he  probably  retired  to  the 
neighbourhood  of  the  K^nhari  caves. 
It  may  be  fairly  conjectured  that  one 
of  his  descendants,  becoming  a  convert 
ot  Buddhism,  devoted  his  property  to 
the  excavation  of  a  monument  to  his 


great  progenitor,  and  hence  the  in- 
scriptions. Several  other  inscriptions 
will  be  found  in  Dr.  Stevenson's  paper, 
commemorating  the  names  of  natives 
of  Kaly^n.  Thus  the  first  Prikiit  in- 
scription is  by  Samiddbha,  a  goldsmith 
of  Kalydn,  and  the  fifth  is  by  Ri$hi- 
hala  of  the  same  city.  Dr.  Stevenson 
infers  from  the  appearance  of  the  let- 
ters, that  the  15th  inscription  was  en- 
graved shortly  after  the  commence- 
ment of  the  Christian  era. 

Further  testimony  to  the  ancient 
splendour  of  Ealydn  is  found  in  the 
Katan  Mdld,  or  *'  Garland  of  Jewels," 
in  which  the  Brdhman  Kji^hnajl  cele- 
brates the  glories  of  the  Solankhl 
princes.  The  scene  is  Ealydn,  where 
R4j4  Bhuwar,  the  Solankhl,  reigns,  and 
the  time  is  the  year  of  Vlkram  752, 
A.D.  696.*  "  The  capital  city,  KalyAn, 
is  filled  with  the  spoils  of  conquered 
foes,  with  camels,  horses,  cars,  ele- 
phants. Jewellers,  cloth-makers,  cha- 
riot builders,  makers  of  ornamental 
vessels,  reside  there,  and  the  walls  of 
the  houses  are  covered  with  coloured 
pictures.  Physicians  and  professors  of 
the  mechanical  arts  abound,  as  well  as 
those  of  music,  and  schools  are  pro- 
vided for  public  education.  It  is  for 
the  sole  purpose  of  comparing  the  ca- 
pital city  of  Ceylon  with  Kalydn,  that 
the  sun  remains  half  the  year  in  the 
north,  and  half  in  the  south." 

Amarndthy  ov  Ambarndthy  "  Immor- 
tal Lord,"  is  a  village  of  about  300  in- 
habitants, which  gives  name  to  the 
district  in  which  the  town  of  Ealydn 
is  situated.  The  temple  of  Ambamdth 
is  in  a  pretty  valley  f  less  than  a  m.  E. 
of  the  village  of  the  same  name,  and 
4^  m.  S.E.  of  Kalydn.  It  stands  on 
the  edge  of  the  little  jdver  WadhwAn, 
which,  rising  near  the  base  of  the  Ma- 
langad  or  Bdwd  Malang  mountain 
(cafied  by  others  BhAo  Mallin),  fiows 
N.  into  the  UlAs,  near  Ealydn.  That 
strangely  peaked  hill  rises  very  near, 
and  every  furrow  of  it  is  distinct, 
whUe  its  summit  seems  as  thin  as  a 
wedge.  There  is  no  written  or  tradi- 
tional history  of  the  temple.    At  a 

*  "RAsMilfifc"  vol.i.  p.  26. 
t  See  the  "Indian  Antiquary"   for  1878 
vol.  iv.  p.  316. 


Sect.  II. 


lioute  2. — Amamdth, 


169 


meeting  of  the  Bombay  Asiatic  Society 
in  1850,  Dr.  J.  Wilson  said  that  his 
attention  had  been  called  to  it  by  Mr. 
J.  S.  Law,  C.S.,  to  whom  its  existence 
had  been  reported  by  Vishnu  Shdstri, 
its  first  discoverer.    Dr.  Wilson  said 
it  was  decidedly  a  Shaivite  temple  (see 
Journal    Bombay  As.    Soc,  vol.    iii. 
pt.  2,  p.  349).    The  temple  is  87J  ft. 
long  from  E.  to  W.,  and  68  ft.  from  N., 
to  B.    In  a  niche  on  the  N.  side  of  the 
adytum  is  a  Trimurti,  or  "  three-headed 
Shiva."    The  figure,  from  its  multi- 
plex and  fictitious  heads  and  skeleton 
legs,  is  as  deformed  as  can  be  imagined. 
It  is  an  object  of  considerable  interest 
as  a  specimen  of  genuine  Hindii  archi- 
tecture.   The  acting-superintendent  of 
the  School  of  Art  at  Bombay,  with  a 
head-moulder  and  draughtsman,  and  8 
assistants,  visited  Ambarnath  on  the 
14th  of  November,  1868.    They  pro- 
duced 24  drawings,  36  photographs, 
and  76  moulds,  at  a  cost  of  Rs.  10,714, 
and  a  further  sum  was  required  to  com- 
plete the  drawings,  copies  of  which  will 
be  found  in  the  "  Indian  Antiquary." 
The  temple  faces  W.,  but  the  Mandap 
or  Hall  in  front  of  the  shrine  has  doors 
to  the  N.  and  S.    Each  door  has  a 
porch  approached  by  4  or  6  steps,  and 
supported  by  4  nearly  square  pillars, 
of  which  2  are  attached  to  the  wall. 
These  are  most  elegant  in  their  pro- 
portion and  design.    The  roofs  of  the 
porticoes  between  the  lintels  are  co- 
vered by  carved  slabs  with  beautiful 
designs,  in  which  birds  and  the  heads 
of  the  lion  of  the  south  are  introduced. 
The  door  from  the  portico  into  the 
temple  is  richly  carved.     The  body  of 
the  temple  is  224  ft.  sq.,  with  a  lobby 
inside  each  door  lOJ  ft.  wide  and  5^ 
deep.  The  roof  of  the  hall  is  supported 
by  4  elaborately  carved  columns  nearly 
square  at  base  but  changing  to  octa- 
gons at  about  1  third  of  the  height. 
The  capitals  are  circular  and  under 
square  abaci,  which  are  surmounted  by 
square  dwarf  columns,  ending  in  the 
usual  bracket  capitals  of   the  older 
Hindii  works.    So  rich  and  varied  is 
the  sculpture  on  these  pillars,  that  no 
description  could  give  an   adequate 
idea  of  it.    The  peSment  of  the  door- 
way leading  into  the  Vimdnah  is  orna- 


mented above  with  elephants  and 
lions,  and  in  the  centre  with  figures  of 
iShiva,  ascetics,  &c. ;  the  jambs  have  a 
neat  pilaster  and  3  figures  below,  the 
central  one  having  a  big  cap  and  4 
arms  and  holding  up  a  skull.  By  the 
door  at  the  E.  end  of  the  hall  one  de- 
scends 9  steps  into  the  shrine,  which 
is  13i  ft.  sq.  Very  few  fragments  of 
the  original  surface  of  the  wall  are 
left  The  spire  has  been  ruined,  and 
the  light  comes  in  from  the  roof.  The 
interior  of  the  shrine  shows  how  care- 
fully the  long  stones  of  dark  basalt 
were  jointed  and  bedded,  mortar  not 
being  in  use  among  the  Hindiis  until 
the  Mutiammadan  conquest.  Like  all 
Hindii  temples  of  the  N.  style  the  out- 
side of  the  building  is  a  series  of  pro- 
jecting comers.  The  base  is  a  series  of 
projecting  and  receding  members,  one 
of  the  upper  ones  representing  a  string 
of  curious  homed  and  bat-like  faces  ; 
then  comes  a  band  with  elephants' 
heads  and  small  human  figures  ;  then 
comes  a  band  with  half -goat,  half -bat- 
like faces ;  then  a  deeper  course  with 
innumerable  human  figures.  A  curious 
belt  of  beautiful  carving  runs  up  each 
face  of  the  Vimdnah.  On  the  inside 
of  the  lintel  over  the  N.  door  of  the 
Mandap  an  inscription  was  found  in  6 
lines  with  characters  of  the  IXth  cen- 
tury, which  have  been  translated  by 
Dr.  Bhdu  DAji  (see  Jour.  Bomb.  As. 
Soc.,  vol.  ix.  p.  220).  This  inscription 
gives  the  date  of  the  building  of  the 
temple  as  Samwat  782=A.D.  860,  in 
the  reign  of  Mah4mandal6shvara  Shri 
Mahavftnirdjadwa. 


170 


HotUe  3. — Bombay  to  KJiaiuMld  and  Kdrli,       Sect.  II. 


1 


ROUTE   3. 

BOMBAY  TO   KHAKDIlI  AND  KABLi. 

Xlianddld.  —  This  pretty  station  is 
77  m.  from  Bombay.  After  Badldptlir, 
42  m.,  the  scenery  becomes  pictnresqae. 
At  Karjat,  62  m.  the  engine  is  changed 
for  one  much  more  powerful  to  ascend' 
the  Bohr  Gh4t.*  The  GhA^  begins  1  m. 
from  Karjat.  The  ascent  is  1  in  42, 
and  to  prevent  destruction  in  case  of 
the  couplings  snapping,  there  are  such 
powerful  breaks  that  a  descending 
train  could  be  soon  stopped,  with  sur- 
plus power  to  spare.  The  ascent  of 
the  Ghdt  to  Lanaull  is  17  m.  by  rail, 
and  about  15  m.  as  the  crow  flies.  It 
is  a  succession  of  short  tunnels  and 
open  spaces,  with  beautiful  views  of 
green  valleys  and  rocky  wooded  moun- 
tain sides,  down  which  in  the  rains 
innumerable  waterfalls  descend.  After 
ascending  about  1000  ft.  the  Flag  Staff 
and  T.  B.  at  EhaQd414  are  seen  far  up 
on  the  left,  and  on  the  right  the  level 
valley  from  Panwell  to  Eamtipiill.  This 
is  a  large  and  very  pretty  village,  with 
a  fine  tank  and  t^ple  to  Mahddeo, 
built  by  the  celebrated  Mar^t^a  Minis- 
ter, Ndn4Farnavls,  whose  real  name  was 
Baidjl  Jan&Tdhan  Bhdnu,  and  who  was 
a  Konkanl  Brdhman  of  the  Chitpdwan 
tribe,  a  tribe  which  gave  rulers  to  the 
Mardtha  empire  in  the  Peshwds,  and 
not  improbably  produced  the  celetaited 
Cbdnakya.  KampiUi  is  23^  m.  from 
Panwell.  The  scenery  is  beautiful.  At 
the  back  of  Ndnd's  Pagoda,  the  Gh&t 
rises  perpendicularly  and  seems  to  over- 
hang it ;  over  the  lake  spreads  a  mag- 
nificent .banyan  tree,  and  near  it  is  a 
grove  of  mango  trees. 

Kampiill  is  not  200  ft.  above  the 
sea,  while  the  Government  hangldy  at 
Khanddld,  the  lowest  point  on  the  table- 
land reached  by  the  railway,  is  .1 800. 
At  Lanaull,  the  GhAt  is  2037  ft.  above 

*  Several  derivations  have  been  given  for 
this  word  :  first,  from  the  word  Bor,  Zizyphus 
Jujiiiba ;  second,  Dnimmond  (Illustrations  of 
Gram.)  derives  it  from  the  Bhor  River,  but 
gives  no  etymology  for  the  river's  name. 
There  is  also  Bhor, "dawn,"  which  might  refer 
to  sunrise  over  the  mountain. 


the  sea,  and  is  naturally  an  abrupt  and 
volcanic  scarp,  which  is  the  general 
character  of  tne  SahyAdri  Range.  The 
heights  of  the  Kasiir,  the  M&ej,  and 
the  Tal  GhAts,  are  2149  ft.,  2062  ft. 
and  1912  ft.  respectively.  The  im- 
portance of  the  Bhor  and  the  Tal  Gh&t 
may  be  understood  from  the  feet  that, 
along  a  range  of  220  miles  of  the  Sa- 
hy^ri  Mountains,  there  are  no  passes 
for  wheel  traffic  from  Bombay  to  the 
interior  of  the  country,  but  these  two. 
The  many  so-called  GhA,^  are  merely 
precipitous  footpaths  for  natives,  or 
steep,  winding,  rugged  tracks  for  pack- 
bullocks.  The  Pun&  and  Calcutta 
road  crosses  the  Bhor  Gh&ty  ftnd  the 
Agra  road  the  Tal  Ghd^.  The  present 
road  over  the  Bhor  Ghdt  was  con- 
structed 25  years  ago,  is  three  miles 
long,  has  in  that  distance  about  40 
well  defined  turns,  besides  curvatures, 
and  leads  to  a  point  150  ft.  higher  than 
the  Railway  arrives  at.  The  first  in- 
cline for  the  G.  I.  Peninsular  Railway 
over  this  Gh&t  was  laid  in  1852,  and 
at  its  base  crossed  some  low  ground 
on  the  left  of  the  Ulasa  valley,  near 
the  village  of  P&dasdarl,and  proceeded 
along  the  N.  flank  of  the  spur,  which 
projects  from  the  main  escarpment 
near  Ehanddld.  It  ascended  this  moan- 
tain  side,  crossing  several  spurs  of  the 
Songirl  Hill,  above  the  village  of 
Newali,  and  rose  along  the  upper  edge 
of  a  basaltic  dyke,  above  the  village  of 
Bhlr  to  the  Khind,  or  Pass,  called 
Mhau  ki  Mali.  It  then  curved  through 
the  Khamnl  Hill,  and  reached  a  na- 
tural terrace  near  the  hamlet  of  Tlid- 
ki!irw&d&.  Thence  it  ran  for  two  miles 
to  Gambhlmith,  where  it  crossed  two 
ravines,  and  ascended  to  a  height 
called  N&th  k&  Doiigar,  and,  passing  a 
deep  chasm,  entered  upon  a  long  level 
depression  in  the  crest  of  the  ridge. 
From  this  an  inclined  plain  of  1  in  20, 
and  1  mile  and  |  long  for  stationary 
engines,  was  laid  along  the  east  of  the 
Shibi  Hill,  passing  under  the  mail  road 
below  the  old  temple,  and  up  the  mural 
precipice  of  the  main  GhAt  to  its  crest 
on  the  rice  ground,  to  the  N.  of  Sir 
Jamshldjl's  hangld.  Thence  the  line 
passed  by  a  tunnel  under  the  said 
ground  to  the  rice  fields  on  the  S.  of 


Sect.  II. 


Houte  3. — KhanddldL 


171 


the  Khand^d  Tank,  whence  it  turned 
into  its  proper  direction,  and  crossing 
the  mail  road  about  half  a  mile  above 
Khand41d,  ran  to  the  summit  of  the 
incline  near  the  village  of  Tungarli. 
Its  total  length  was  13^  miles  ;  its  rise 
was  1796  feet ;  and  its  estimated  cost 
£483,900.  The  difficulties  in  this  plan 
induced  Lord  Dalhousie,  in  1853,  to 
call  for  further  investigation,  and  this 
led  to  the  examination  by  Mr.  Berkley, 
the  Chief  Engineer,  of  the  Easilir,  Saoll, 
Kuraunda,  S^wa,  W&gi,  Sawasnl, 
Kaunl,  Bhun!ip,  Gdrdolet,  Pimpri, 
Kumbha,  and  Tiptdti  Gh&fs,  none  of 
which  were  found  so  eligible  as  the  Bhor 
Gh&t.  It  was  proved,  for  example,  that 
the  Kasiir  Ghat,  on  the  Biver  Andhru, 
with  1728  feet  to  be  ascended,  would 
require  a  gradient  of  I  in  33  instead  of 
I  in  40,  as  at  the  Bbor  Gh^ti  ^^^  ^c, 
in  other  respects,  greatly  more  difficult. 
A  new  incline  up  the  Bhor  GhA^  was 
now  adopted,  and  as  the  works  in  pro- 
gress along  it  are  the  most  stupendous 
of  the  kind  in  the  world,  they  deserve  a 
somewhat  detailed  notice  here.  For 
the  first  four  miles  from  Pddasdari  to 
Mhau  kl  Mali,  the  route  was  entirely 
changed.  It  now  skirted  the  foot  of 
the  spur,  and  turned  its  S.W.  angle 
below  Songirl  Hill  to  it«  8.  flank,  up 
which  it  ascends  to  Mhau  ki  Mali.  By 
this  the  gradient  was  reduced  from  1 
in  35  to  1  in  50  and  1  in  40.  From 
Khamni  Hill  to  the  Ehind,  the  course 
was  very  slightly  altered,  but  from  that 
point  it  was  entirely  changed.  This 
was  accomplished  by  adhering  to  the 
side  of  the  great  ravine  below  Khan- 
dAlA,  by  sweeping  round  the  W.  slope 
of  Shlbl  Hill,  and  by  perforating  by  a 
long  tunnel  the  lofty  projection  on 
which  Mr.  Adamson's  house  now  stands. 
Emerging  from  this  tunnel,  the  altered 
incUne  ascends  the  precipitous  escarp- 
ment on  the  left  margin  of  the  great 
Khanddl4  Ravine.  It  rises  to  a  new 
summit  near  the  village  and  beautiful 
wood  of  Lanaull.  ,  Thus  the  stationary 
engine  plane  was  dispensed  with,  but 
the  works  in  the  upper  portion  were 
much  increased.  In  1854-5,  improve- 
ments were  introduced.  A  reversing 
station  was  then  carried  down  across 
the  mail  road  to  the  hill  opposite  to 


Toll  House,  and  thence  ascended  along 
the  Battery  Hill,  recrossed  the  mail 
road  a  second  time,  traversed  the  head 
of  the  large  ravine  under  the  mountain 
called  "  the  Duke's  Nose,"  entered  the 
tunnel,  through  the  same  hill  as  before, 
swept  round  the  side  of  a  lateral  ravine 
through  Khandald  village,  and  bisect- 
ing the  Tank,  struck  nearly  into  the 
originaJ  line.  The  incline,  as  it  is  now 
constructed,  is  15  miles  68  chains 
long  ;  the  level  of  its  base  is  196  feet 
above  high  water  mark  in  Bombay, 
and  of  its  summit  2027  feet,  so  that 
the  total  elevation  surmounted  in  one 
lift  is  1831  feet.  Its  avei'age  gradient 
is  1  in  48. 

The  total  length  of  tunneling  is 
2535  yards.  Short  additional  tunnels 
will  probably  be  substituted  for  the 
deepest  parts  of  some  of  the  cuttings. 
There  are  eight  viaducts,  of  which  the 
dimensions  are  given  in  the  following 
list : — 

Viaduct  Yds.  long.  Ft  high. 

No.  1,  eight  50  ft.  arches  .    168  127 

2,  six      50        „        .  .     128  95 

S,  four    50        „  .85  74 

4,  four    50        „        .  .      85  94 

5,  eight  50        „  .168  139 

6,  six      40        „        .  ,    101  85 

7,  four   80        „  .52  45 
8 101  56 

The  total  quantity  of  cuttings 
amounts  to  1 ,623,102  cubic  yards.  The 
largest  cuttings  contain  respectively : — 


IIS.OOO 

cuhic  yards 

72,000 

1* 

96,000 

ti 

77,000 

it 

75,000 

tt 

The  greatest  depth  of  cutting  is  80 
feet.  The  embankments  amount  to 
1,849,934  cubic  yards.  The  heaviest 
embankments  contain,  respectively, — 

159,000  cubic  yards. 
128,000  „ 

189,000  „ 

268,000  „ 

125,000  „ 

209,000  „ 

Their  maximum  height  is  74  ft. 
There  are  18  bridges  of  various 
spans,  from  7  to  30  ft.,  and  58  culverts 
from  2  to  6  ft.  span.  The  estimated 
cost  of  this  incline  was  £597,222,  or 
£41,188  a  mile,  and  its  completion  was 


172 


JRoiUe  3. — Bombay  to  Khanddld  and  Kdrlu         Sect.  II. 


contracted  for  in  five  years  from  the 
date  of  commencement,  which  expired 
in  February,  1861. 


A  comparison  between  the  Bhor  Qt\ik% 
and  the  two  most  remarkable  mountain 
inclines  in  Europe  is  given  below : — 


Name  of  Incline. 

Length. 

Total 
Ascent. 

Average 
Gradient 

Mazlmnm 
Qradient. 

Sharpest  Cnrves. 

Total 
length  of 
Tunneling 

Miles. 

Feet  1 

Miles. 

Giovi  Incline  . 

6 

889 

linStf 

Iin29 

20  chains  radius. 

2.55 

Semmering  Incline. 

Ascent  from  Fayerback 

to  Semmering 

13} 

1325 

lin47 

lin40 

/SO  curves  of  10) 
J  chains    radius,  f 

2.66 

Descent  from  Semmering 

J  and   38   curves  ( 

to  Mtlrzzaschlag     .    . 

8i 

705 

linSO 

lin50 

(ofl4C.  R.         ; 
(l  of  15,  and  2) 

Bhob  Gha't  Incline 

^H 

1831 

lin48 

linsr 

•<  of     20     chains  v 
radius.                 } 

1.44 

The  Giovi  incline  is  upon  the  Turin 
and  Genoa  Kail  way,  and  commences 
7}  miles  from  Ctenoa,  at  a  point  295  ft. 
above  the  level  of  the  Mediterranean, 
and  ascends  the  Apennines. 

The  Semmering  incline  is  upon  the 
Vienna  and  Trieste  Railway,  and  crosses 
the  Noric  Alps  at  the  Pass  of  that 
name.  It  is  replete  with  extensive  and 
extraordinary  works.  The  preliminary 
operations  and  study  of  this  incline 
occupied  from  1842  to  1848,  a  period 
of  six  years ;  it  was  opened  in  May, 
1854,  its  construction  having  taken 
five  and  a  half  years.  Upon  the  Bhor 
Ghdt,  about  four  years  were  spent  in 
preliminaries,  and  the  works  were 
completed  in  five  years  from  the  date 
of  their  commencement. 

The  beautiful  scenery  of  the  moun- 
tains, and  the  remarkable  character  of 
the  incline,  make  the  passage  of  the 
Bhor  Gh&t  one  of  the  most  remarkable 
stages  in  Indian  travel.  In  conse- 
quence of  the  reversing  station,  one 
portion  of  the  incline  is  nearly  parallel 
to  and  much  above  the  other,  both 
being,  as  it  were,  terraced  1400  ft. 
directly  over  the  Konkan.  In  some 
parts  the  line  is  one  half  on  rock 
benching,  while  the  other  half  consists 
of  a  very  lofty  embankment,  some- 
times retained  by  a  wall  of  masonry. 
In  other  places,  on  account  of  the 
enormous  height,  embankment  is  im- 
possible, and  while  half  the  width  of 
the  railway  is  on  rock  benching,  the 
other  half  rests  on   vaulted   arches. 


The  viaduct  that  crosses  the  Mhau  ki 
Mall  Khind  is  163  ft.  high  above  the 
footing,  and  consists  of  eight  semi- 
circular arches  of  50  ft.  span.  On  the 
whole  the  traveller  will  here  find  much 
to  astonish  and  delight  him. 

At  1350  ft.  above  the  sea  the  train 
halts  for  10  minutes  at  the  reversing 
station  ;  goods  trains  halt  20  min. ;  the 
halt  in  both  cases  being  for  the  engine 
to  go  to  the  other  end. 

KhanddlA.  —  This  beautiful  village 
has  for  more  than  20  years  been  a 
favourite  retreat  for  the  wealthy  inha- 
bitants of  Bombay  from  the  distressing 
heat  of  the  summer  months.  It  pre- 
sents so  many  attractions  to  the  tourist 
and  tiie  sportsman  that  as  many  days 
as  can  be  spared  may  well  be  given  to 
it.  The  village  itself  is  large,  and, 
now  that  the  railway  is  open,  must 
extend  rapidly.  The  second  bangld 
reached  is  one  on  the  left  of  the  road, 
built  by  Greneral  Dickenson,  of  the 
Bombay  Engineers,  who  did  much  to 
make  the  place  known,  and  to  improve 
the  roads.  The  site  of  this  bangld  is 
well  chosen.  It  overlooks  a  tremen- 
dous ravine,  the  sheer  depth  of  which 
is  in  great  part  concealed  by  luxuriant 
trees.  At  the  bottom  winds  a  small 
silvery  stream.  This  ravine  harbours 
many  wild  beasts,  and  at  night  tigers, 
leopards,  and  bears  ascend  the  steep 
sides,  and  are  often  seen  even  under 
the  vrindows  of  the  bangl&s.  The 
natives,  when  they  get  sight  of  them, 
raise  wild  shouts  to  scare  them  away  ; 


Sect.  II. 


Baute  3.— The  Waterfall— Kdrlt 


173 


and  these  cries,  echoing  among  the 
hills,  and  a  knowledge  of  the  purpose 
for  which  they  are  raised,  have  a  not 
very  encouraging  effect  on  the  lonely 
wayfarer.  About  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
from  this  stands  the  traveller's  bangla, 
also  on  the  edge  of  the  ravine  ;  and 
on  the  right  is  a  large  tank,  adjoining 
which  is  the  bangld  of  Sir  Jamshidji 
JijibhAl.  Leading  past  this,  to  the 
East,  is  a  road  to  a  magnificent  hill 
called  the  Duke's  Nose,  whence  is  a 
fine  view  over  the  Konkan,  similar  to 
those  at  Mdther^,  already  described. 
Beyond  the  tank  is  the  village  of 
Khanddld ;  and  stiU  further  on  the 
Kdrli  road  is  the  beautiful  wood  of 
Lanauli,  where  wild  boar  and  othey 
game  may  be  found.  A  gentleman 
riding  in  this  direction  some  years 
ago  came  upon  a  party  of  seven  large 
wolves,  who,  however,  did  not  attack 
or  pursue  him. 

The  Tr«^^//aZZ.  —  Distant  from  the 
traveller's  bangld  about  half  a  mile  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  ravine,  is  a 
much  admired  waterfall.  To  reach  it 
it  is  necessary  to  go  about  a  mile  and 
a  half  in  order  to  get  round  the  head 
of  a  watercourse.  In  doing  this  the 
site  of  a  bangld  is  passed,  once  the 
residence  of  Mountstuart  Elphinstone, 
Governor  of  Bombay.  The  foundation 
alone  remains.  In  the  monsoon  the 
distant  view  of  the  Fall  from  the  top 
of  the  GhAt  is  very  fine.  There  are 
then  two  cataracts,  divided  into  upper 
and  lower  by  a  short  interval.  The 
upper  cataract  has  a  sheer  fall  of  300  ft. 

The  European  burial  ground  is 
beside  the  tank,  and  is  rather  thickly 
tenanted.  Here  is  buried  Mr.  Graham, 
who  was  the  principal  founder  of  the 
Botanical  Garden  at  Bombay,  and 
whose  researches  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  the  EhanddU  Gh^t  were  marked 
with  much  success. 

At  the  beginning  of  the  present  cen- 
tury, the  road  to  EhanddU  was  very 
steep  and  difficult,  and  infested  vTith 
wild  beasts.  Up  this  road  the  Duke 
of  Wellington  got  his  reinforcements 
and  supplies  when  marching  on  Fund. 
At  Lanauli,  79J  m.  from  Bombay, 
20  min.  are  allowed  for  dinner,  for 
which  the  charge  is  Rs.  2  without 


drinkables.  Here  is  the  G.  I.  P.  Rail- 
way Company's  School  and  Church, 
and  from  this  place  or  from  Ehandala 
the  tall  precipice  called  the  Duke's 
Nose,  which  is  about  4  m.  off,  may 
be  visited.  The  ascent  is  by  the  S. 
shoulder,  and  is  very  steep. 

K&rli,* — The  traveller's  next  halting 
place  must  be  Edrli,  where  is  a  tra- 
veller's bangl4  and  a  barrack  for  200 
men,  v^th  a  small  village  to  the  right, 
hid  among  trees.  The  celebrated  caves 
are  on  a  UU  about  two  miles  to  the  N. 
of  the  bangld. 

The  following  is  from  Mr.  Fergusson's 
description  of  the  KArli  cave  f: — "  The 
great  cave  of  Kdrll  is,  without  excep- 
tion, the  largest  and  finest  chaitya 
cave  in  India,  and  was  excavated  at  a 
time  when  the  style  was  in  its  greatest 
purity,  and  is  fortunately  the  best 
preserved.  Its  interior  dimensions 
are  124  ft.  3  in.  in  total  length,  81  ft. 

3  in.  length  of  nave.  Its  breadth  from 
wall  to  wall  is  45  ft.  6  in.,  while  the 
width  of  the  central  aisle  is  25  ft.  7 
in.  The  height  is  only  46  ft.  from  the 
floor  to  the  apex.  The  same  writer  says, 
"  The  building  resembles  an  early  Chris- 
tian church  in  its  arrangements,  while 
all  the  dimensions  are  similar  to  those 
of  the  choir  of  Norwich  Cathedral." 
The  nave  is  separated  from  the  side  aisles 
by  15  columns  with  octagonal  shafts  on 
each  side,  of  good  design  and  workman- 
ship. On  the  abacus  which  crowns  the 
capital  of  each  of  these  are  two  kneeling 
elephants,  and  on  each  elephant  are 
two  seated  figures,  generally  a  male  and 
female,  with  their  arms  over  each 
other's  shoulders ;  but  sometimes  two 
female  figures  in  the  same  attitude. 
The  sculpture  of  these  is  very  good, 
and  the  effect  particularly  rich  and 
pleasing.  Behind  the  altar  are  7  plain 
octagonal  piers  without  sculpture, 
making  thus  37  pillars  altogether,  ex- 
clusive of  the  Lion-pillar  in  front, 
which  is  16-sided,  and  is  crowned  with 

4  lions  with  their  hinder  parts  joined. 
The  chaitya  is  plain  and  very  similar 
to  that  in  the  large  cave  at  Ajayanti 


*  Mr.    Burgess  writes  KarlS  and  KArle  (see 
Cave  Temples  of  India,"  pp.  218,  219). 
t  "  Roek-cut  Temples  ol  India,"  page  27. 


174 


JRoute  3. — Boinhay  to  Khanddld  and  Kdrli,         Sect  II. 


(Ajiinta),  but  here,  fortunately,  a  part 
of  the  wooden  umbrella  which  sur- 
mounted it  remains.  The  wooden  ribs 
of  the  roof,  too,  remain  nearly  entire, 
proving  beyond  doubt  that  the  roof  is 
not  a  copy  of  a  masonry  arch  ;  and 
the  framed  screen,  filling  up  a  portion 
of  the  great  arch  in  front,  lie  the 
centering  of  the  arch  of  a  bridge  (which 
it  much  resembles),  still  retains  the 
place  in  which  it  was  originally  placed. 
At  some  distance  in  advance  of  the 
arched  front  of  this  cave  is  placed  a 
second  screen,  which  exists  only  here 
and  at  the  great  cave  at  Salsette, 
though  it  might  have  existed  in  front 
of  the  oldest  chaitya  caves  at  Ajayanti 
(Ajunta).  It  consists  of  two  plam  oc- 
tagonal columns  with  pilasters.  Over 
these  is  a  deep  plain  mass  of  wall,  oc- 
cupying the  place  of  an  entablature, 
and  over  this  again  a  superstructure 
of  four  dwarf  pillars.  Except  the 
lower  piers,  the  whole  of  this  has  been 
covered  with  wooden  ornaments  ;  and, 
by  a  careful  examination  and  measure- 
ment of  the  various  mortices  and  foot- 
ings, it  might  still  be  possible  to  make 
out  the  greater  part  of  the  design.  It 
appears,  however,  to  have  consisted 
of  a  broad  balcony  in  front  of  the 

Elain  wall,  supported  by  bold  wooden 
rackets  from  the  two  piers,  and  either 
roofed  or  having  a  second  balcony 
above  it.  No  part  of  the  wood,  how- 
ever, exists  now,  either  here  or  at 
Salsette.  It  is  more  than  probable, 
however,  that  this  was  the  music  gal- 
lery or  Na^dra  E^^nah,  which  we  still 
find  existing  in  front  of  almost  all 
Jain  temples,  down  even  to  the  present 
day.  Whether  the  space  between  this 
outer  and  the  inner  screen  was  roofed 
over  or  not  is  extremely  difficult  to 
decide.  To  judge  from  the  mortices 
at  Salsette,  the  space  there  would  seem 
to  have  had  a  roof ;  but  here  the  evi- 
dence is  by  no  means  so  distinct, 
though  there  is  certainly  nothing  to 
contradict  the  supposition.  There  are 
no  traces  of  painting  in  this  cave, 
though  the  inner  wall  has  been  plas- 
tered, and  may  have  been  painted; 
but  the  cave  is  inhabited,  and  the  con- 
tinued smoke  of  cookings  fires  has  so 
blackened  its  walls  that  it  is  impos- 


sible to  decide  the  question.  Its  inha- 
bitants ate  Shivites,  and  the  cave  is 
considered  a  temple  dedicated  to  Shiva, 
the  Dahgopa  performing  the  part  of  a 
gigantic  lingam,  which  it  resembles  a 
g(X)d  deal.  The  outer  porch  is  52  ft. 
wide  and  16  deep.  Here  originally  the 
fronts  of  3  elephants  in  each  end  wall 
supported  a  frieze  ornamented  with  the 
rail,  but  at  both  ends  this  2nd  rail  has 
been  cut  away  to  introduce  figures. 
Above  was  a  thick  quadrantal  mould- 
ing, and  then  a  rail  with  small  fa9ades  of 
temples,  and  pairs  of  figures  like  those 
at  Kudd  45  m.  S.  of  Bombay,  for 
which  see  "  Cave  Temples  of  India,*' 
p.  207.  The  figures  are  a  man,  a 
woman,  and  a  dwarf. 

"  It  would  be  of  great  importance  if 
the  age  of  this  cave  could  be  positively 
fixed ;  but  though  that  cannot  quite  be 
done,  it  is  probably  antecedent  to  the 
Christian  era  ;  and  at  the  same  time  it 
cannot  possibly  have  been  excavated 
more  than  two  hundred  years  before 
that  era.  From  the  Silasthamba  (pil- 
lar) on  the  left  of  the  entrance,  Colonel 
Sykes  copied  an  inscription,  which  Mr. 
Mnsep  deciphered  in  the  sixth  volume 
of  the  Journal  of  the  Asiatic  Society. 
It  merely  says, '  This  lion  pillar  is  the 
gift  of  Ajmitra  Ukas,  the  son  of  Saha 
Ravisabhoti  ; '  the  character  Prinsep 
thinks  that  of  the  first  or  second  cen- 
tury B.C.  From  its  position  and  im- 
port, the  inscription  appears  to  bo 
integral,  and  the  column  is  certainly  a 
part  of  the  original  design." 

According  to  a  letter  from  Dr.  Bird 
to  Mr.  Fergusson,  one  inscription  at 
Kdrli  is  "  of  the  20th  year  of  Datthama 
Hara,  otherwise  called  Dattagamini, 
king  of  Ceylon,  B.C.  163."  Mr.  Fer- 
gusson did  not  see  this  inscription  ; 
and  could  not  tell  therefore  whether  it 
is  integral  or  not,  nor  in  what  cha- 
racter it  is  written ;  but  thinks  that 
unless  other  circumstances  confirm  the 
identity,  dependence  ought  not  to  be 
placed  upon  the  nominal  similarity  of 
a  king  at  so  great  a  distance.  In  his 
work  on  "  The  Caves  of  Western  India," 
Dr.  Bird  makes  no  mention  of  this 
inscription.  Dr.  Stevenson  (Bombay 
Asiatic  Society's  Journal,  vol.  5)  gives 
70  B.C.  as  the  date  of  the  great  cave 


Sect.  IT. 


Emite  3. — Kdrli, 


175 


temple  at  Kdrlen  *  executed  according  ;  above  date  to  be  at  all  near  the  truth, 
to  this  writer  by  the  Emperor  Devab- 
hiiti,  under  the  care  of  Xeaocrates 
(DhanukAkatA  or  Dhenukakati).  The 
same  authority  says  that  in  326  A.D. 
the  village  of  Karanja  on  the  Gh&ts 
was  made  over  to  the  monks  at  K4rlen 
by  the  two  great  military  commanders, 
who  in  the  struggles  between  the  regal 
Satraps  and  Magadh  emperors,  had 
most  likely  wrested  the  adjacent  ter- 
ritory from  the  former,  and  resigned 
it  to  the  latter.  About  the  same  time 
the  Buddha  on  the  left  of  the  entrance, 
where  these  inscriptions  are  found, 
was  probably  executed.  Dr.  Steven- 
son adds  that  in  A.D.  342  the  monastery 
cave  at  E&rlen  was  excavated  by  a 
mendicant  devotee.  But  Mr.  Thomas 
(««  Prinsep  Papers,"  vol.  ii.  p.  254) 
doubts  the  accuracy  of  these  dates.f 

"  In  disposition  and  size,  and  also 
in  detail  as  far  as  similarity  can  be 
traced  between  a  cave  entirely  covered 
with  stucco  and  painted,  and  one  which 
either  never  had,  or  has  lost  both  these 
ornaments,  this  cave,"  says  Mr.  Fer- 
gusson,  "is  so  similar  to  the  two  at 
Ajanta,  which  I  had  before  placed 
about  this  age,  and  on  the  front  of  it 
there  is  also  the  reeded  ornament, 
which  is  so  common  at  Ehandagiri, 
and  only  exists  there,  and  in  the  oldest 
caves  at  Ajanta ;  that  from  all  these 
circumstances  I  am  inclined  to  think 
the  above  date,  163  B.C.  is  at  least  ex- 
tremely probable,  though  by  no  means 
as  a  date  to  be  implicitly  relied  upon," 
"  It  is  to  this  cave  more  especially," 
says  the  same  writer, "  that  the  remark 

applies  that  I  made  (p.  6)  that  the 

chaitya  caves  seem  at  once  to  have 

sprung  to  perfection  ;  for  whether  we 

adopt  the  Mahawanso  for  our  guide, 

or  Ashoka's  inscriptions,  it'  is  evident 

that  this  country,  under  the  name  of 

Haharatthan  in  the  former,  and  Pite- 

nika  in  the  other,  is  one  of  the  uncon- 
verted countries  to  which  missionaries 

were  sent  in  the  tenth  year  of  Ashoka's 

reign ;  and  if,  therefore,  we  assume  the 

*  This  is  the  form  of  8i)elliiig  Kirli  adopted 
always  by  Dr.  Stevenson. 

t  Mr.  Burgess  ("  Cave  Temples  of  India," 
p.  2SS),  says :  "  We  shall  probably  not  be  far 
wrong  in  placing  the  excavation  of  these  caves 
uutenor  to  the  Uhnstian  era." 


a  century  had  scarcely  elapsed  between 
the  conversion  of  the  country  and  the 
execution  of  this  splendid  monument. 
There  is  nothing  in  the  Vihdras  here 
or   elsewhere,   which  I  have   placed 
about  the  same  date,  that  might  not 
have  been  elaborated  from  a  natural 
cavern  in  that  period ;  but  there  is  a 
complication  of  design  in  this  that  quite 
forbids  the  supposition  ;  and  it  must 
either  be  brought  down  to  a  much  more 
modern  epoch,  or  it  must  be  admitted 
to  be  a  copy  of  a  structural  building ; 
and  even  then  but  half  the  difficulty  is 
got  over.    Was  that  structural  building 
a  temple  of  the  Brihmans  or  Buddh- 
ists?   was  it   designed   or   invented 
since  the  death  of  Sakya  Sinha?   or 
did  it  belong  to  a  former  religion  ?  and 
lastly,  if  we  are  correct  in  supposing 
cave-digging  to  have  commenced  only 
subsequent   to  Ashoka's  reign,  why, 
while  the  vih^ras  were  still  so  small 
and  so  insignificant,  was  so  great  a 
work  undertaken  in  the  rock  1 

"It  would  be  a  subject  of  curious 
inquiry  to  know  whether  the  wood 
work  now  existing  in  this  cave  is  that 
originally  put  up  or  not.    Accustomed 
as  I  had  long  been  to  the  rapid  de- 
struction  of   everything    wooden   in 
India,  I  was  half  inclined  to  be  angry 
when  the  idea  first  suggested  itself  to 
me  ;  but  a  calmer  survey  of  the  matter 
has  convinced  me  that  it  is.    Certain 
it  is  that  it  is  the  original  design,  for 
we  find  it  repeated  in  stone  in  all  the 
niches  of  the  front,  and  there  is  no 
appearance  of  change  or  alteration  in 
any  part  of  the  roof.    Every  part  of  it 
is  the  same  as  is  seen  so  often  repeated 
in  stone  in  other  and  more  modem 
caves,  and  it  must,  therefore,  have  been 
put  up  by  the  Buddhists  before  they 
were  expelled ;  and  if  we  allow  that 
it  has  existed  800  or  1000  years,  which 
it  certainly  has,  there  is  not  much 
greater  improbability  in   its  having 
existed  near  2000  years,  as  I  believe  to 
be  the  case.    As  far  as  I  could  ascer- 
tain the  wood  is  teak.     Though  ex- 
posed to  the  atmosphere,  it  is  pro- 
tected from  the  rain,  and  has  no  strain 
upon  it  but  its  own  weight,  as  it  does 
not  support  the  roof,  though  it  appears 


176 


Eoute  3. — Bombay  to  KJutnddld  and  Kdrh, 


Sect.  II. 


to  do  so ;  and  the  rock  seems  to  have 
defied  the  industry  of  the  white  ants." 

Mr.  Fergnsson  appends  to  his  notice 
of  this  "  decidedly  the  finest  chaitya 
cave  in  India,"  a  general  description 
of  the  arrangement  of  such  caves.  He 
observes  that  the  disposition  of  parts 
is  exactly  the  same  as  those  of  the 
choir  of  a  Gothic  round,  or  polygonal 
apse  cathedral.  Across  the  front  there 
is  always  a  screen  with  a  gallery  over 
it,  occupying  the  place  of  the  rood-loft, 
on  which  we  now  place  our  organs. 
In  this  there  are  3  doors ;  one,  the 
largest,  opening  to  the  nave,  and  one 
to  each  of  the  side  aisles.  Over  the 
screen  the  whole  front  of  the  cave  is 
open  to  the  air,  being  one  vast  win- 
dow, stilted  so  as  to  be  more  than  a 
semicircle  in  height,  or,  generally,  of 
a  horse-shoe  form.  The  whole  light 
falls  on  the  dahgopa,  which  is  exactly 
opposite,  in  the  place  of  the  altar, 
while  the  colonnade  around  and  behind 
is  less  perfectly  lit,  the  pillars  being 
veiy  close  together.  To  a  person 
standing  near  the  door  there  appeared 
nothing  behind  the  dahgopa  but  "  il- 
limitable gloom."  The  writer  above- 
mentioned  thinks  that  a  votary  was 
never  admitted  beyond  the  colonnade 
under  the  front,  -the  rest  of  the  temple 
being  devoted  to  the  priests  and  the 
ceremonies,  as  in  China,  and  in  Catho- 
lic churches,  and  he  therefore  never 
could  see  whence  the  light  came,  and 
stood  in  comparative  shade  himself,  so 
that  the  effect  was  greatly  heightened. 
To  the  description  above  given  it  is 
only  requisite  to  add  that  the  hill  in 
which  the  caves  are  is  very  steep,  and 
about  600  ft.  high  from  the  plain.  A 
huge  round  cliff  like  a  tower  shuts  in 
the  view  in  one  direction.  The  guides 
call  the  male  and  female  figures  in  the 
portico,  hairdgiSy  or  devotees.  The 
figure  on  the  dahgopa  they  call  Dhar- 
ma  Bdj&,  the  Hindii  Minos. 

Besides  the  great  cave  at  Kdrll, 
there  are  a  number  of  vihdras,  hut 
small  and  very  insignificant  compared 
with  it ;  and  this,  Mr.  Fergusson 
thinks,  is  a  proof  of  their  antiquity. 
For  at  first  the  vihdras  were  mere 
cells,  where,  as  Fa-hian  says,  "  the  Ar- 
hats  sat  to  meditate,"  and  as  the  reli- 


gion was  corrupted,  became  magnifi- 
cent halls  and  temples.  Such  are  the 
vihdras  at  Ajayantl.  The  principal 
vihdra  at  E&rli  is  3  tiers  in  height. 
They  are  plain  halls  with  cells,  but 
without  any  internal  colonnades,  and 
the  upper  one  alone  possesses  a  veran- 
dah. The  lower  fronts  have  been 
swept  away  by  great  masses  of  rock 
which  have  rolled  from  above.  Near 
this  is  a  small  temple  to  Bhav&ni,  with 
the  figure  of  a  tortoise  in  front  of  the 
murti,  or  "  image,"  which  is  that  of  a 
moon-faced  female  with  huge  eyes. 
There  is  a  small  village  at  the  foot  of 
the  hUl,  in  which  the  caves  arej  caUed 
Ekvlra,  and  from  this  the  great  cave 
is  sometimes  called  the  Cave  of  Ekvfra. 

Besides  the  caves,  the  traveller, 
while  at  Earli,  may  also  visit  the  hill 
forts  of  Logarh  and  'Isdptir  (see  Grant 
Duff,  pp.  13,  14),  which  are  at  an 
elevation  of  1200  ft.  above  the  plain, 
with  a  sheer  scarp  of  200  ft.  Logarh 
was  taken  by  Malik  Ahmad  from  the 
Mardthas  in  1485  A.D.,  and  by  Shivaji 
in  1648,  and  again  by  the  same  chief  in 
1670.  It  was  here  that  the  widow  qt 
NAnd  Famavls  took  refuge  from  the 
time  of  Amfit  Rdo's  coming  to  Fund 
on  the  12th  November,  1802,  to  March 
15th,  1804,  when  General  Wellesley, 
according  to  the  proposal  of  Dhondd 
BalaJ  Kil'ad^,  of  Loga^h,  guaranteed 
to  her  her  safety,  and  an  annual  pen- 
sion of  12,000  rupees.  Loga^h  was 
twice  taken  by  the  English  with  little 
difficulty. 

Caves  of  Bhdjcb  and  Bedsd, — Bhdj4 
is  a  village  2  m.  S.  of  Kdrll,  and  Beds4 
is  5^  m.  E.  of  Bhdjd.  A  full  account 
of  tiiese  places  will  be  found  in  "  Cave 
Temples  of  India,"  pp.  223,  228.  The 
Bhdjd  Cave  dates  from  200  B.C.  There 
are  18  excavations,  and  No.  12  is  one 
of  the  most  interesting  in  India. 
Bedsd  dates  a  little  later  than  Bhdjd. 

In  the  Journal  of  the  Bombay  Asiat. 
Soc.  for  May,  1844,  Art.  vi.,  some  ac- 
count is  given  of  these  caves  by  Mr. 
Westergaard,  who  writes  to  Dr.  Bird 
as  follows  :  "  I  have  just  returned  from 
a  visit  to  the  caves  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  E4rl{,  and  I  am  led  to  suppose 
that  the  minor  caves  at  Bedsd  and  Bhdjd 
might    possibly   have  escaped    your 


Sect.  II» 


Horde  4. — Kdrli  to  Fund. 


177 


notice.  I  take  the  liberty  to  send  yon 
a  short  description  with  copies  of  the 
few  inscriptions  there ;  hoping  that 
you  will  not  refuse  this  small  contri- 
bution to  your  most  important  and  in- 
teresting work  on  the  Caves  of  West- 
ern India.  The  caves  at  Bedsa  are 
situated  about  6  m.  S.W.  from  War- 
g^n.  The  plan  of  the  temple  resem- 
bles K&rll,  but  is  neither  of  so  great 
extent,  nor  so  well  executed,  and  ap- 
pears more  modem.  It  contains  a 
dahgop  ;  and  its  roof,  which  is  ribbed 
and  supported  by  26  octagonal  pillars 
10  ft.  high,  seems  to  have  been  covered 
with  paintings,  which  are  now,  how- 
ever, 80  indistinct  that  nothing  can  be 
made  out  of  them.  There  are  4  pillars 
about  25  ft.  high  in  front,  surmounted 
by  a  group  of  horses,  bulls,  and  ele- 
phants. The  first  pillar  supports  a 
horse  and  a  bull,  with  a  male  and 
female  rider  ;  the  next,  3  elephants 
and  1  horse,  2  of  the  elephants  having 
a  male  and  female  rider ;  the  3rd,  3 
horses  and  1  elephant,  a  male  and  fe- 
male rider  being  placed  on  2  of  the 
horses  ;  and  the  4th  pillar  is  sur- 
mounted by  2  horses  bearing  a  male 
and  female  rider.  The  hall  of  instruc- 
tion, which  is  of  an  oval  shape,  has  a 
vaulted  roof,  and  is  situated  close  to 
the  temple.  It  contains  11  small  cells, 
and  over  the  door  of  one  of  them 
there  is  an  indistinct  and  partly  de- 
faced inscription,  which  will  be  imme- 
diately noticed. 

<*  The  caves  of  Bhdji  are  situated  3 
m.  S.B.  from  the  village  of  KArli.  The 
principal  temple  contains  a  dahgop, 
but  no  sculptures,  and  has  its  roof  sup- 
ported by  27  plain  pillars.  Outside 
there  is  a  group  executed  in  has  reliefs 
now  much  defaced.  On  both  sides  of 
the  chapel  the  hill  has  been  excavated 
into  two  stories,  corresponding  with 
the  height  of  the  temple,  and  contain- 
ing the  usual  ludls  of  instruction,  with 
cells.  But  the  most  curious  of  the 
sculptures  is  a  collection  of  14  dahgops, 
5  of  which  are  inside  and  the  others 
outside  the  cave.  On  the  first  of  the 
latter  there  is  an  inscription.  The 
group  of  horses,  bulls,  and  elephants, 
on  the  4  pillars  in  front  of  the  arched 
cave    at    Qedsd   resembles  what  we 

IBombay—lSSO,] 


find  on  the  Indo-Mithraic  coins  of 
the  N.,  and  is  evidence,  were  no  other 
proofs  procurable,  that  such  belongs 
to  the  worship  of  the  sun. 

*'  The  first  inscription  from  the  BedsA 
cave,  described  as  executed  over  the 
door  of  a  small  cell,  may  be  translated 
— 'By  an  ascetic  of  N&shika,  resembling 
the  purified  Saint  (Buddha),  the  pri* 
mssval  heavenly  great  one.' 

"The  second  inscription  from  the 
same  caves,  said  to  be  over  a  well, 
may  be  translated — '  A  righteous  gift 
of  a  small  offering  to  the  moving  power 
(body),  the  intellectual  principle,  the 
cherishing  material  body,  the  offspring 
of  Manu,  the  precious  jewel,  the  su- 
preme heavenly  one  here." 

**  The  inscription  on  the  first  of  the 
9  dahgopas  outside  the  cave,  may  be 
translated — *  The  resting-places  of  th^ 
preserver  dwelling  in  the  elements.* 
The  next  inscription  from  the  Bh&jd 
caves  is  said  to  be  over  a  well,  and 
may  be  translated  —  *The  righteous 
gift  of  a  symbol  and  vehicle  of  the  pu- 
rified Saka  SaJka,  the  resting-place  of 
the  giver.'  The  last  inscription  which 
is  given  is  not  quite  so  distinct  as  the 
others.  It  may  be  translated — *  A  gift 
to  the  vehicle  of  Bdddha  (the  perfect 
one),  the[Sugata  (Buddha)  eternally 
gone.' " 


ROUTE  4. 

kAeli  to  punA. 

Wargdon,—l&igh.t  m.  to  the  N.B. 
of  Taleg&on,  which  is  98  m.  from 
Bombay,  is  the  very  large  and  flour- 
ishing village  of  Wai^don,  celebrated 
for  the  defeat  of  a  British  force 
under  Lieut.-Col.  Cockbum,  on  the 
12th  and  13th  of  January,  1779,  and 
for  a  disgraceful  convention  concluded 

IT 


178 


JRoiUe  4. — £arli  to  Fund, 


Sect.  II. 


there  by  Mr.  Camac  with  the  Mard- 
thas.  The  history  of  the  affair  is  briefly 
thus :  The  Governor  of  Bombay,  Mr. 
Hornby,  had  agreed  with  the  Ex- 
Feshw4  Raghon^th  B4o  to  place  him 
at  PaD4  (Qrant  Duff's  "^Uar^has," 
vol.  ii.  p.  363)  as  regent,  and  sent  a  force 
of  3900  men,  of  whom  591  were  Euro- 
peans, to  carry  out  the  agreement. 
With  this  little  army  went  a  trium- 
virate of  2  civil  officers  and  Col.  Eger- 
ton  to  direct  operations.  One  of  the 
civilians,  Mr.  Mostyn,  was  sent  back 
sick,  and  died  on  the  1st  of  Jan.  at 
Bombay,  without  ever  attending  the 
committiee.  Mr.  Camac,  as  president 
with  the  casting  vote,  had  now  the  full 
power.  The  force  advanced  from  Pan- 
well  to  EhanddU,  where  Lieut.-Col. 
Cay  was  killed  by  a  rocket,  the  ene- 
my's advanced  guard  having  com- 
menced an  attack  as  soon  as  the  troops 
surmounted  the  Ghdt.  At  K4rli,  Cap- 
tain Btewart,  a  most  gallant  officer, 
who,  by  his  conspicuous  courage  on 
many  occasions,  had  won  from  the 
Mardthas  the  soubriquet  of  Stewart 
PhAkr6,  or  Stewart  the  Hero,  was 
killed  by  a  cannon  ball.  The  Mard- 
tha  main  army,  which  was  commanded 
by  N^n&  Famavis  and  Mahiddji  Sind- 
hia,  Hari  Pant  Pharke,  and  Tukoji 
Holkar,  advanced  to  Taleg^n,  but 
retired  on  the  advance  of  the  British, 
having  first  destroyed  the  village.  Col. 
Egerton  now  resigned  the  command 
to  Lieut. -Col.  Cockbum,  and  shortly 
after,  Mr.  Camac  becoming  alarmed, 
proposed  to  retreat.  On  the  night  of 
the  11th  of  January  the  heavy  guns 
were  thrown  into  a  tank,  a  quantity  of 
stores  were  burned,  and  the  retreat 
commenced.  At  2  a.m.  the  Mard^has 
began  an  attack,  plundered  part  of  the 
baggage,  and  shortly  after  completely 
surrounded  the  army.  The  fiercest 
onset  was  made  upon  the  rear-guard, 
which,  but  for  the  heroism  of  its  com- 
mander. Captain  James  Hartley,  would 
have  been  cut  to  pieces.  Animated  by 
his  harangues,  the  Sipdhis  repulsed  the 
enemy  till  10  A.M.,  when  Col.  Cock- 
bom  sent  peremptory  orders  to  retreat 
— orders  which  would  have  been  fatal 
had  they  been  obeyed.  But  they  were 
disregarded,   and   the   troops   main- 


tained the  contest  until  a  favourable 
opportunity  presented  itself  of  falling 
l>ack  on  Wargdon.  The  total  loss  on 
this  day  was  352,  among  whom  were 
15  European  officers,  killed  and 
wounded.  Col.  Cockbum  now  declared 
that  further  retreat  was  impracti- 
cable, and  that  the  army  was  at  the 
mercy  of  the  Mardthas ;  and  this  pu- 
sillanimous conduct  was  vainly  com- 
bated by  the  gallant  Hartley.  Mr. 
Camac  sent  Mr.  Holmes  to  make  terms 
with  the  enemy,  and  was  not  ashamed 
afterwards  to  declare  that  he  granted 
the  powers  to  that  gentleman,  under  a 
mental  reservation  that  they  were  of 
no  validity.  The  terms  agi^eed  upon 
were  that  everything  should  be  restored 
to  the  Mard^has  as  held  by  them  in 
1773  ;  that  the  committee  should  send 
an  order  to  the  Bengal  column,  ad- 
vancing to  their  support,  to  halt ;  that 
the  English  share  of  Bhardch  should 
be  given  to  Sindhia  ;  and  41,000  rs.  to 
his  servants.  However,  as  soon  as  the 
committee  were  safe  down  the  Ghdts, 
they  broke  faith,  by  countermanding 
the  order  to  the  Bengal  troops,  though 
the  Mardthas  held  2  hostages,  Mr.  Far- 
mer and  Lt.  Stewart,  for  the  due  per- 
formance of  the  treaty.  For  this  dis- 
graceful convention  and  retreat  Col. 
Egerton,  Col.  Cockbum,  and  Mr.  Car- 
nac  were  dismissed  the  service.  It 
was  at  Wargdoii  that  Captain  Vaugh- 
an  of  the  15th  Madras  N.  I.  and  his 
brother,  a  cadet,  were  intercepted  by 
the  Mardthas  after  the  battle  of  Khir- 
ki,  and,  having  been  ^'  driven  forward 
in  the  most  insulting  manner  "  *  to  Ta- 
legdon,  were  there  craelly  hanged  on 
a  tree  on  the  Pund  side  of  the  road. 

Ckinc?m-adf*^  Chinchore." — This  vil- 
lage is  109  m.  from  Bombay,  where  re- 
sides a  Brdhman  who  is  worshipped 
as  an  incarnate  god.  The  village  has 
a  picturesque  appearance  from  the 
river  side.t  Above  the  handsome  flight 
of  stone  steps  which  leads  to  the  river 
Miild,  are  many  fine  trees,  but  the 
temple  is  low  and  devoid  of  ornament. 
LordValentia  has  given  an  account 
of  his  visit  to  this  place  in  1804,  and 
Mrs.  Grahame  of  hers  on  December 

*  BUcker's  "  Mardtha  War,"  p.  71,  ed.  1821. 
t  "  Chow-Chow,"  vol  L  p.  292. 


Sect.  II. 


Route  4. — Khirkt 


179 


19th,  1809,*  when  she  saw  the  boy 
who  was  then  Deo  or  god,  *'not  anyway 
distinguished  from  other  children,  but 
by  an  anxious  wildness  of  the  eyes, 
said  to  be  occasioned  by  the  quantity 
of  opium  which  he  is  daily  made  to 
swallow."  Lady  Falkhmd  in  1848 
▼isited  the  place,  but  did  not  see  the 
god,  who  was  out  on  a  tour.  An  ac- 
count of  the  origin  of  this  ^*  exti*aordi- 
nary  imposture  "  is  given  by  Col.  Sykes 
in  vol.  iii.  ^'  Trans.  Lit.  Soc.  of  Bom- 
bay," art.  iv.  p.  64.  About  two  cen- 
turies and  a  half  ago  a  poor  couple 
obtained  the  promise  of  a  son  to  soothe 
their  declining  years,  from  Gai^pati, 
the  Hindii  god  of  wisdom.  The  boy 
was  named  MorobA,  in  honour  of  the 
god,  this  being  one  of  his  titles. 
Shortly  after  ^  birth  the  parents 
moved  to  Pippalg^A,  about  4  m.  from 
Ohinchwad,  where  they  died  ;  and 
Morobd  then  came  to  T&ti!ir  close  to 
Ghinchwad,  and  spent  22  years  in 
prayer  and  pilgrimage.  At  the  end 
of  this  time  he  restor^  a  blind  girl  to 
sight,  and  Shivaji,  whose  career  was 
then  commencing,  was  induced  by  the 
fame  of  this  miracle  to  seek  a  cure  for 
a  disorder  of  his  eyes  from  the  new 
saint.  The  cure  was  effected,  and 
Morobd's  name  became  widely  cele- 
brated. He  then  quitted  Tdtdr,  and 
took  up  his  residence  in  a  jungle  which 
then  covered  the  site  of  Chinchwad. 
Here  Ganpati  appeared  to  him,  and 
promised  him  as  a  reward  for  his  piety 
to  be  incarnate  in  him  and  his  de- 
scendants for  seven  generations.  Va- 
rious miraculous  circumstances  fol- 
lowed, such  as  the  emerging  of  a 
sacred  conical  stone  from  the  earth 
close  to  Morobi,  and  ended  in  his  be- 
ing revered  as  a 'god.  After  a  long 
career  he  buried  himself  alive  in  a  sit- 
ting posture,  with  a  holy  book  in  his 
hand,  and  with  a  strict  command  that 
his  resting  place  should  never  be  dis- 
turbed. Morob4  was  succeeded  by  his 
son  Chintdman  Deo,  in  attestation  of 
whose  divinity  a  second  conical  stone 
emerged  from  the  earth.  He  had  8 
wives  and  8  sons,  and  was  succeeded 
by  Ndriyaoi  Deo,  whose  fame  having 


«  If 


Joamal  of  Residence  in  India,"  jf.  70. 


reached  Dilli,  the  Emperor  'Alamglr, 
to  test  his  godship,  sent  him  as  an 
offering  a  piece  of  cow's  flesh  wrapped 
up  in  many  cloths.  On  being  opened, 
after  Ndrdyan  bad  sprinkled  it  with 
holy  water,  it  was  found  changed  to  a 
bouquet  of  jessamine  flowers  ;  and 
'Alamg^  was  so  pleased  with  the  mi- 
racle that  he  presented  8  villages  in 
perpetuity  to  the  god  for  his  support. 
To  Ndrdyan  succeeded  Chintdtnan 
Deo  II. ;  to  him  Dharmadhar,  and  to 
him  Chintiman  Deo  III.,  who  was  fol- 
lowed by  Ndr4y  an  U.  This  last  brought 
down  a  curse  upon  the  family  by  open- 
ing the  grave  of  Morobd,  who  impre- 
cated childlessness  upon  the  intruder ; 
and,  in  consequence,  Dharmadhar,  the 
son  of  N&rdyan  IL ,  died  without  issue. 
The  Brdhmans,  however,  were  deter- 
mined to  keep  alive  the  deceit,  and 
adopted  for  the  god  a  distant  relative 
named  Sdkhdri ;  and  as  long  as  the 
contributions  of  votaries  supply  the 
means  of  giving  monthly  dinners  to 
select  parties,  and  annual  entertain- 
ments to  unlimited  numbers,  as  is  now 
the  case,  the  imposture  will  flourish. 

Xliirki  (Kirkee). — The  next  place  tq 
stop  at  is  Khifkl,  115  J  m.from  Bombay, 
and  only  3}  m.  from  Fund.  The  word 
Khirki  signifles  ^'a  window,"  but  also 
a  sally-port.  It  is  interesting  as  being 
the  scene  of  a  splendid  victory  over 
Bdji  Rdo,  the  last  Peshwd.  On  the  Ist 
of  November,  1817,  the  dispositions  of 
that  prince  had  become  so  threaten- 
ing, that  Mr.  Elphinstonc,  then  Besi- 
dent  at  Fund,  determined  to  remove 
the  troops  from  the  cantonment  of 
that  place  to  Khij*kl,  where,  on  the  5th, 
they  took  up  a  good  |X)sition  to  the 
east  of  an  eminence,  on  which  stands 
the  village  of  Khiykl,  and  where  the 
stores  and  ammunition  were  stationed, 
under  the  protection  of  the  battalion 
companies  of  the  2nd  battalion  of  the 
6th  Begiment.  In  the  rear  of  the 
troops  was  the  river  Muld,  and  from 
the  S.  and  W.  advanced  the  masses  of 
the  Peshwd's  army,  amounting  to  8000 
foot,  18,000  horse,  and  14  guns,*  be- 
sides a  reserve  of  5000  horse  and  2000 
foot  with  the  Peshwd,  at  the  sacred 

*  Grant  Duff,  voL  iii.  p.  427. 

n2 


180 


Houte  4. — Karli  to  Fund. 


Sect.  II.- 


hill  of  P^bati.  The  cantonments  at 
Puni  and  the  Residency  at  the  San- 
pram,  on  the  site  of  which  now  stands 
the  Judicial  Commissioner's  office,  had 
been  plundered  and  burnt  on  the  1st, 
as  soon  as  the  English  troops  quitted 
them.  One  regiment  of  Major  Ford's 
brigade  was  at  DApdri,  and  the  total 
Rtrength  of  the  English,  even  when 
ihat  joined,  was,  according  to  Grant 
Duff,  but  2800  rank  and  file,  of  which 
800  were  Europeans.  Colonel  Burr,  a 
good  and  gallant  officer,  but  almost 
disabled  by  paralysis,  commanded  this 
little  army,  and  formed  them,  with  the 
Bombay  European  regiment,  a  detach- 
ment of  H.M.  65th,  Sie  Resident's  es- 
cort, and  part  of  the  2nd  battalion  of 
the  6tii  N.  L,  in  the  centre  ;  on  the 
right  flank,  the  2nd  battalion  of  the 
1st  K.  I. ;  and  on  the  left  the  1st  bat- 
talion of  the  7th  N.  I.  Gokl&  com- 
manded the  Peshwd's  army,  and  its 
advance  is  compared  by  Grant  Duff, 
who  was  an  eye-witness,  to  the  rush- 
ing tide  called  the  Bhor  in  the  Gulf  of 
Khambdyat.  It  swept  all  before  it, 
tramplii^  down  the  hedges,  and  fields 
of  standing  corn  which  then  covered 
the  plain.  Colonel  Burr  was  now  in- 
formed that  Major  Ford  was  advanc- 
ing with  his  regiment,  the  PeshwA's 
own,  from  DApdrl  on  the  W.,  to  join 
him ;  and  in  order  to  facilitate  the 
junction,  he  moved  the  main  force  to 
a  position  about  a  mile  in  advance, 
and  to  the  S.W.  of  the  village  of 
Khirki.  The  Mardtha  leaders  had  been 
tampering  for  some  time  with  the  re- 
pfiment  that  was  moving  from  Ddpiirl, 
and  they  fully  expected  it  would  come 
over,  as  it  was  paid  by  the  Peshwd. 
A  strong  body  of  horse,  therefore, 
under  Moro  Dikshat,  the  prime  minis- 
ter of  the  PeshwA,  advanced  about  4 
P.M.  upon  the  Ddpilirl  battalion,  but 
Major  Ford,  throwing  back  his  right 
wing,  opened  a  heavy  fire  upon  the 
Mar&t^as,  both  of  musketry  and  from 
3  small  guns  commanded  by  Captain 
Thew.  A  good  many  Mardthas  fell, 
and  among  them  Moro  Dikshat,  who 
was  struck  by  a  cannon  shot  in  the 
mouth.  It  is  remarkable  that  this 
chief,  who  was  an  excellent  man  and 
a&dthfnl  servant  of  his  prince,  had 


several  times  endeavoured  to  persuade 
Major  Ford  of  the  hopeless  nature  of 
the  contest  for  the  British  ;  and,  find- 
ing that  officer  determined  to  side  with 
his  countrymen,  had  asked  for  and  ob- 
tained a  promise  of  protection  to  his 
family  in  case  he  should  fall,  engaging 
to  do  the  same  for  Major  Ford's  family 
in  case  the  Peshw4  triumphed.  It  need 
scarcely  be  added  thatMajor  Ford  faith- 
folly  performed  his  agreement  to  the 
children  of  the  gallant  Mardthd  leader. 
In  the  meantime,  Gokld  had  organised 
an  attack  on  the  left  flank  of  the  Eng- 
lish main  force,  and  this  was  led  by  a 
regular  battalion  commanded  by  a 
Portuguese  named  De  Pento ;  and, 
after  his  discomfiture,  a  select  body  of 
6000  horse,  with  the  Jari  PatkA,  or 
golden  pennon,  flying  at  their  head, 
charged  the  7th  N.I.  as  they  were 
pursuing  De  Pento's  men.  Gokld's 
horse  was  wounded  in  this  charge,  and 
his  advance  was  stopped ;  but  there 
were  other  gallant  leaders,  such  as 
NAni  Pant  Apt6  and  Mahadeo  RAo 
Rdstia  ;  and  it  was  well  for  the  Sipd- 
hls  that  a  swamp  in  their  front  checked 
the  charge  of  the  Mardthas,  whose 
horsemen  rolled  headlong  over  one 
another  in  the  deep  slough.  As  it  was, 
some  cut  their  way  tlm>ugh  the  Si- 
pAhi  battalion ;  but,  instead  of  tom- 
mg  back,  when  they  might  have  de- 
stroyed the  regiment,  they  rode  off  to 
plunder  the  village  of  Khirki,  whence 
they  were  repulsed  by  a  fire  of  grape. 
After  this  charge,  the  MarA^has  drew 
off  with  a  total  loss  of  about  500  men, 
while  that  of  the  English  was  but  86. 
On  the  13th,  General  Smith's  army 
arrived  from  Sinir,  and  the  PeshwA, 
after  a  slight  resistance,  put  his  army 
in  full  retreat.  The  most  remarkable 
point  in  the  battle  of  Ehirkl  is,  per- 
haps, the  extraordinary  steadiness  of 
Major  Ford's  regiment  under  great 
temptation.  In  it  were  upwards  of  70 
Mai&thas,  yet  not  a  man  deserted  on 
the  day  of  battle,  though  promised 
vast  sums  to  join  their  countrymen. 
After  the  action,  the  Marathas,  but 
only  the  Mardthas,  joined  the  enemy, 
and  many  of  them  being  subsequently 
captured,  their  culpability,  such  as  it 
was,  was  very  properly  ignored,  and 


Sect.  II. 


Route  4. — KhirJcu 


181 


■they  were  set  free.  A  further  proof  of 
the  fidelity  of  this  corps  to  its  officers 
must  not  be  overlooked.  On  crossing 
the  river  from  Dapiirl  it  waa  found 
impossible  to  get  the  guns  to  move,  as 
the  bullocks  could  not  draw  them  out 
of  the  bed  of  the  stream.  Captain 
Thew,  commanding  the  guns,  an- 
nounced this  to  Captain  Lodwick,  the 
brigade  major,  who  immediately  or- 
dered the  light  battalion  to  t^e  the 
drag  ropes  and  extricate  the  guns. 
The  Sipdhis,  though  men  of  the  highest 
caste,  obeyed  this  order  with  the  ut- 
most alacrity,  much  to  the  surprise  of 
the  artillery  officer,  who  fully  expected 
them  to  mutiny.  Upon  the  whole,  it 
must  be  admitted  that  the  Ddpiiri 
regiment  decided  the  fate  of  the  day. 
The  officers  with  it  were  Major  Ford, 
conomanding  ;  Capt.  afterwards  Gene- 
ral Lodwick,  brigade  major ;  Lieut, 
afterwards  Colonel  Sykes,  adjutant ; 
and  Captain  Thew,  commanding  the 
guns. 

The  railway  station  at  Khijrkl  is  881 
yds.  N.W.  of  the  church,  and  the 
church  is  625  yds.  N.W.  of  the  Artil- 
lery  Mess,  which  has  the  barracks  of 
the  soldiers  close  by  to  the  N.  Ehirki 
is  in  fact  the  head-quarters  of  the  Ar- 
tillery. 800  yds.  to  the  N.E.  of  the  bar- 
racks is  the  Small  Arms  Ammunition 
Factory,  the  enclosure  of  which  is  about 
600  yds.  sq.  At  220  yds.  to  the  N.E.  of 
the  Factory  are  the  Powder  Works, 
the  enclosure  of  which  is  820  yds.  long 
from  N.  to  S.  and  410  from  B.  to  W. 
The  existence  of  this  great  store  of 
powder  so  near  the  barracks  of  the  Ar- 
tillery is  a  serious  matter,  for  it  is  said 
that  if  an  explosion  took  place,  not 
a  building  would  be  left  standing  in 
Khirki  ;  still  the  traveller  may  like  to 
visit  the  Factory  and  the  Works,  and 
if  so,  he  must  obtain  permission  from 
the  Commandant  of  the  Artillery. 
Christ  Church,  Khirkl,  which  is  in  the 
Artillery  lines,  was  consecrated  by 
Bishop  Carr,  in  1841,  and  has  seats  for 
600  persons.  It  is  150  ft.  long  from 
E.  toW.,  and  75  ft.  broad  at  the  chan- 
cel. There  is  a  brass  let  into  the  floor 
in  front  of  the  W,  entrance,  and  over 
it  are  2  Colours.  On  the  brass  is  in- 
scribed ; — 


In  Commemoration  of  the  Past  History  of 
The  23bd  Regiment  Bombay  Native  Light 

hWANTBY, 

The  above  Coloors  are,  by  permission, 

Placed  in  this  Chiu*ch. 

1870. 

There  is  another  handsome  brass  in 
front  of  the  reading-desk,  to  the  me- 
mory of  Captain  Arthur  Carey,  of  the 
R.  H.  A.  This  church  is  remarkable  for 
the  handsome  tablets  erected  by  regi- 
ments to  officers  and  men  of  their 
corps,  who  died  during  service  in  In- 
dia. Thus  there  is  a  tablet  to  3  officers 
of  the  4th  Queen's  Own  Light  Dra- 
goons, who  died  in  Sindh  in  the  Afghan 
campaign  of  1838,  and  one  to  30  offi- 
cers of  the  14th  King^s  Light  Dra- 
goons, who  died  between  1841  and 
1869,  26  of  whom  were  killed  in  ac- 
tion ;  and  another  to  90  non-commis- 
sioned officers  of  the  same  regiment, 
who  died  or  were  killed  during  the 
same  time.  Of  these,  3  were  killed  in 
action  at  Rdmnagar.  There  are  2  other 
tablets  to  officers  of  the  same  regiment , 
in  which,  strangely  enough,  the  names 
are  differently  spelt.  At  120  yds.  to 
the  N.E.  of  the  Artillery  Mess  is  St. 
Vincent  de  Paul's  Roman  Catholic 
Chapel,  as  it  is  called  in  the  maps,  but 
which  was  the  Protestant  Church  un- 
til Government  gave  it  over  to  the 
Catholics.  It  is  107^  ft.  long  and  42  ft. 
3  in.  broad.  One  of  the  most  interest- 
ing spots  at  Khifkl  is  Holkar's  bridge 
over  the  Muld  river,  a  stream  which 
surrounds  Khi]:ki  to  the  S.E.  and  N. 
The  river  is  200  yds.  broad  at  this  spot. 
On  the  right-hand  side  as  you  go  to 
Pun4  from  Ehirki  is  an  old  English 
cemetery,  and,  on  the  left  of  the  road, 
about  300  yds.  to  the  N,  is  the  New 
Burial  Ground.  After  crossing  the 
Mul4,  the  road  passes  on  the  right,  the 
tomb  of  Kha&de  R&o  Holkar,  and  on 
the  left  are  the  Sappers  and  Miners' 
Lines,  and  to  the  S.  the  Dakhan  Col- 
lege. In  this  vicinity  the  Jamshldji 
Band  and  the  Fitzgerald  Bridge  may 
be  visited.  The  Band  is  thrown  across 
the  Muld  river,  and  on  the  S.  side  of 
it  are  pretty  gardens,  in  which  the  band 
plays.  In  the  New  Burial  Ground,  as 
yet  there  are  scarcely  any  tombs.  In 
the  Old  Cemetery  there  are  not  many 
tombSy  though  ^eat  nun^bers  o|  Eng- 


182 


EoiUe  4. — Karli  to  Fund, 


Sect.  IT. 


lishmen  have  been  buried  there  without 
any  record ;  but  some  inscriptions  show 
the  ravages  of  cholera  in  1865.  There 
are  also  the  tombs  of  seyeral  officers  of 
the  14th  Boyal  Hussars  and  18th  Hus- 
sars, 10th  Hussars,  and  olher  cavalry 
regiments,  and  that  of  Lieut.-Col.  Sus- 
sex Vane  Stephenson  of  the  Scots  Fusi- 
lier Guards,  erected  by  the  officers  of 
the  Staff  of  the  C.  C.  Col.  Stephenson 
died  of  cholera  in  1872. 

Ddpuri  (Dapoorie).  —  Before  leav- 
ing Khifkl,  a  visit  may  be  paid  to 
Ddpiiri.    The  road,  which  is  the  great 
road  to  Bombay,  leads  for  2  m.  to  the 
N.W.,  running  parallel  with  the  rail- 
way.   You  cross  the  MulA  river  by  a 
long  narrow  bridge,  and  see  on  your 
left  the  Fitzgerald   Bridge.     DdpAri 
was  for  years  the  residence  of   the 
governor,  but  is  now  in  a  wretched 
state  of  decay.    The  name  is  perhaps 
a  corruption  of   IndrApilr,  "City   of 
Indra,"  and  may  be  connected  with 
the  worship  of  the  God  at  Chinchwad. 
It  was  here  that  on  the  banks  of  the 
little   river  PdwanA,  "  pure  stream," 
a    tributary    of   the    Muld,    Captain, 
afterwards    Col.  Ford,   C.B.,  built    a 
handsome  residence,  and  expended  on 
it,  and  on  the  beautiful  gardens  sur- 
rounding it,    no    less    a    sum    than 
110,000  rs.    This  officer  had  long  been 
the  assistant  of  Sir  Barry  Close,  and 
was,  by  his  interest,  appointed  to  raise 
and  command  a  brigade  of  troops,  dis- 
ciplined after  the  English  fashion,  for 
the  PeshwA  Bdjl  Rdo.    This  was  in 
1812,  and  the  new  levies  were  can- 
toned at  DApiiri  till  1817,  when  they 
marched  to  the  aid  of  Colonel  Burr's 
army  at  the  battle  of  Ehirki,  and  took 
a  prominent  part  in  the  engagement. 
During  his  residence  at  DApSrl,  Major 
Ford  was  conspicuous  for  his  hospi- 
tality, his  house  being    open  to  all 
strangers,  and  his  table  maintained  in 
a  princely  style.    He  was   also  the 
liberal  supporter  of  all  charities,  and 
was  beloved  and    respected    by  the 
natives  as  much  as  any  European  who 
ever  visited  India.   It  was  the  declared 
intention  of  the  Peshwi  to  spare  Major 
Ford,  had  he  succeeded  at  the  battle  of 
Khiykl.    Some  time  after  that  victorj', 
hftvin^  fttt^ii^ed  his  Lt,-CQlpnelcy,  h^ 


was  attacked  with  fever  and  died  at 
Bombay.  His  beautiful  residence  at 
D&piM  was  purchased  by  Sir  J.  Mal- 
colm for  Government  for  the  paltry 
sum  of  10,000  rs.  Near  it  are  nowiJie 
Botanical  Gardens.  The  principal  ban- 
gle contains  some  fine  reception  rooms, 
and  one,  in  which  the  Government 
balls  so  amusingly  described  by  Lady 
Falkland  •  were  held,  is  upwards  of  80 
ft.  long  and  well  proportioned.  There 
are  besides  several  detached  banglds. 

PuJid.—ThiB  capital  of  the  Mardthas 
is  119  m.  from  Bombay,  and  lies  to 
the  S.W.  of  Khifkl.    PunA  has  a  pop. 
according  to  the  census  of   1872,  of 
90,436  persons,  and  there  is  generally 
a  large  force  cantoned  there,  consist- 
ing of  three  regiments  of    European 
infantry,  two  N.L,  and  one  of  light 
cavalry.    The  first  mention  we  have  of 
Pun&  is  in  the  Mardtha  annals  of  1599 
A.D.,  when  the  parganahs  of  Pund  and 
Stipa  were  made  over  to  Maldji  Bhoilislc 
(grandfather  of  Shivaji)  by  the  Nigam 
ShAhl  Government.  In  1750  it  became 
the  Mar&tba  capital  under  B&ldji  Bdji 
BAo.    In  1763  it  was  plundered  and 
destroyed   by  NigAm  'All,  with    the 
Mughul  army  of  QaidarAb&d  in  the 
Dakhan.  Here,  on  the  25th  of  October, 
Jeswant    B&o    Holkar   defeated   the 
combined  armies  of  the  PeshwA  and 
Sindhia,  and  captured  all  the  guns, 
baggage,  and  stores  of  the  latter.   The 
city    stands   in  a  somewhat  treeless 
plain  on  the  right  of  the  MiitA  river,  a 
little  before  it  joins  the  Muld.    At  its 
extreme  S.  limit  is  the  hill  of  PArbati, 
so  called  from  a  celebrated  temple  to 
the  goddess  DurgA  or  PArvatl.    A  few 
miles  to  the  E.  and  N.E.  are  the  hills 
which  lead  up  to  the  still  higher  table- 
land in  the  direction  of  S&tdrd.    The 
station  is  the  principal  one  under  the 
British  Government  in  the  Dakhan, 
and  is  justly  a  favourite  for  its  salu- 
brity and  pleasant  climate.    There  is 
an    aqueduct   built    by  one    of    the 
RAstias,  a  family  of  great  distinction 
amongst  the    Mar&thas.     There    are 
also  extensive  waterworks,  constructed 
by  Sir  Jamshidji  Jijibhdi,  which  cost 
upwards  of  £20,000.     Of  this  sum  the 

*  "  Chow-Chow,'*  vol.  i.  p.  228, 


Sect  II. 


Route  4. — Fund, 


185 


Pdrsi   baronet   contributed    £17,500. 
Lady  FiUkland*  pronounces  the  view 
of  Fund  from  the  Sangam,  or  junction 
of  the  rivers  Muld  and  Miitd,  to  be 
*' perfectly   enchanting."     Supposing 
the  traveller  to  arrive  at  Puna  by  the 
railway,  he  will  find  the  Royal  Family 
Hotel  almost  touching  the  S.E.  side 
of  the  station.    The  PunA  Hotel,  at 
the   comer   of    Band    Gardens   and 
Lothian  Road,  is  about  800  yds.  further 
to  the  B.,  in  close  proximity  to  the 
Post-office   and   St.   Paul's    Church. 
The  Napier  Hotel  is  in  Arsenal  Road, 
and   is  400  yds.  farther  to  the  S.E. 
This  hotel  may  be   strongly  recom- 
mended.   There  is  a  very  good  Club 
at  Pnn^  to  which  strangers  are  ad- 
mitted.   It  is  between  the  Ordnance 
Lines  and  Wodehouse  Road,  and  is 
called  the  Club  of  W.  Indin.    Admis- 
sion is  by  ballot,  and  the  entrance  fee 
is  Rs.  200.    There  are  billiard  rooms 
and  a  good  racquet  court.    There  are 
also  a  few  apartments  which  are  let  to 
members  for   residence.      Supposing 
the  traveller  to  be  located  at  any  of 
these  hotels,  his  first  visit  may  be  to 
the  Council  Hall,  which  is  200  yds.  to 
the  N.  of  the  PunA  Hotel.    It  is  63  ft. 
long  and  20  broad,  and  is  hung  with 
pictures.    In  the  middle  of  the  left 
end  as  you  enter  is  a  f  nll-leng^h  por- 
trait of  Sir  B.  Frere,  with  one  of  KhAn 
Bah&dur    Padamil    Pestanji    on   his 
right.    Above  is  |ChAn  BahAdur  Nau- 
shirwAnjl.    Above  that  again  is  Lord 
Napier  of  Magdala,  and  on  his  left 
KhAn     Bahddur     Pestanji     SorAbjl. 
These    are  followed  by  portraits    of 
FrAmji  Patel,  the  Crown  Prince  of 
Travankor,   Sir    MangaldAs    NAthub- 
hAi,   Dr.    Bhau    D&jl,   the    RAjA   of 
Kochin,  Sir  S&lAr  Jang,  the  ThAkors 
of  Bhaunagar  and  Morvl,  and  at  the 
end  Ehand^  RAo  GAekwAd  and  Lady 
Frere.     Opposite  the  Council  Hall  is 
the  office  of  the  DaJih^in  Herald^  pub- 
lished three  times  a  week.    There  is 
one  other  paper,  the  Puna  Observer, 
published  every  other  day  alternately 
with  the  Dakhan  Herald,    The  office 
for  it  is  close  to  Treacher's  Store,  and 
the  PArsi  Fire  Temple.  The  next  visit 

*  "  dlow-Chow,"  vol.  I  p.  265. 


will  be  first  to  the  Sassoon  Hospital 
and  then  to  St.  Paul's  Church,  which 
is  200  yds.  S.W.  of  the  PunA  Hotel, 
and  is  plain  inside,  but  has  4  very 
handsome  stained  glass  windows  over 
the  Communion  Table.    It  was  conse- 
crated    by  Bishop  Harding  in  1867 
There  are  seats  for  230  persons.    The 
number  of  communicants  is  unusually 
large,  and  among  them  may  be  seen 
In£an  women  in  their  native  dresses. 
The  Sassoon  Hospital  is  at  tlie  end  of 
the   Arsenal    Road,    and   is   in   the 
English  Gothic  style.  There  is  accom- 
modation   for    150  patients.    It  was 
opened  in  the  year  1867.  Opposite  the 
hospital  are  the  Collector's  Kacheri,  the 
Government  Treasury,  and  the  Branch 
Bank  of  Bombay.    About  260  yds.  S. 
of  St.  Paul's  Church  is  the  Jews'  Syna- 
gogue.  It  is  a  red-brick  building  with 
a  tower  90  ft.  high.    It  is  90  ft.  9  in. 
long    from    the     entrance    to    the 
Sanctum,  which  is  semicircular,  and 
10  ft.    wide.    Here   is    a  handsome 
curtain  with  a   Bible  and   2  hands 
pointing  to  it.    The  hall  is  44  ft.  10  in. 
broad  and  stands  E.  and  W.    On  the 
left,  as  you  enter,  is  a  tablet  with  this 
inscription : — 

This  is  the  Oate  of  the  Lord, 

Into  which  the  Righteous  shall  enter, 

and 

This  Stone 

Is  set  as  a  Honnment  to  he  a  sign 

of  this 

House  of  Prayer, 

called 

The  Tent  of  David. 

The  foundation  of  which  was  laid 

on  the 

2nd  of  November,  1863, 

by  the  late 

DAVID   SASSOON,  ESQ., 

and  which  was  completed  under  we  auspices 

of  his  Sons. 

Consecrated,  29th  September,  1867. 

David  Sassoon*s  tomb  adjoins  the  sjma- 

gogue,  which  was  built  by  him.    The 

Mausoleum  is  16  ft.  7  in.  sq.  inside 

measure,  and  28  ft.  high.    On  the  W. 

side  is  a  Hebrew  inscription  and  the 

Sassoon  arms.    On  the  E.  side  is — 

Sacred  to  the  Memory  of 

DAVID    SASSOON, 

Bom  at  Baghdad, 

Heshwan,  6,  553: 

Died  at  Punii, 

Heshwan,  5,  625. 

May  his  soul  rest  in  peace. 


184 


Houte  4. — Karli  to  Fund, 


Sect.  ir. 


On  the  S.  and  N.  sides  are  long  He- 
brew inscriptions.  Close  here,  adjoin- 
ing, is  Treacher*B  shop,  where  all  stores 
can  be  pnichased« 

A  drive  of  1}  to  the  S.E.  will  take 
the  traveller  to  St.  Mary's  Chnrch,  and 
on  the  way  he  may  stop  at  the  Arsenal 
if  he  wonld  like  to  see  it,  which  is 
about  }  m.  from  St.  Paul's  Chnrch. 
St  Mary*B  Chnrch  is  118  ft  long  and 
85  ft.  1  in.  broad  at  the  chanceL    Here 
arebnried  many  officers  of  distinction, 
sach  as  CoL  Morris,  C.B.,  of  Balaklava 
celebrity,  who  died  1858,  Lieut  C.  A. 
Stuart,  of  the  Madras  Aimy,  who  fell 
mortally  wounded  28th  of  January, 
1858,  while  leading  the  men  of  the 
4th  Kij^to's  infantry  for  the  3rd  time 
against  a  body  of  insurgent  Bhils, 
strongly  posted  at  Mandwddd  Malle- 
g^n.      ^ere  are  tablets  also  to   5 
officers  of  the  27th  Bombay  K.I.  and  5 
officers  of  the  8th  Royal  regt.  of  Foot, 
also  to  Captain  Thomas  Ramon,  who 
died  Nov.  5th,  1816.    This  tablet  says, 
"  That  it  is  to  perpetuate  his  memory 
in  this  Christian  Temple,  designed  by 
his  genius  and  reared  by  his  hand  ; " 
but,  strange  to  say,  he  died  and  was 
buried  at  Mandeir  in  Eachh,  and  the 
tablet  was  intended  for  the  church  at 
Kaira,  of  which  he  was  the  architect. 
There  is  also  a  tablet  to  Lieut.  J.  W. 
M'Cormack,  of  H.M.'s  28th,  killed  at 
the  storming  of  Bet,  with  4  N.C.  officers 
and  8  men,  Oct  6th,  1859.    Another 
tablet  is  to  Major  Henry  C.  Teesdale, 
who  fell  in  front  of  the  Colours  of  the 
25th  regt.  N.I.,  when  commanding  it 
at  the  battle  of  Midnf,  on  the  17th 
of  February,  1843.    With  him  are  as- 
sociated the  names  of  Lieut  C.  Lodge, 
killed  in  action  at  Kotru  in  Eja(£h 
Gand&va,  on  the    Ist   of   December, 
1840  ;  of  Capt  C.  Rebenac  ;  of  Ensign 
Browne,  killed  by  accident  at  Karachi, 
and  of  18  other  officers  of  the  same 
regt,  one  of  whom,  Col.  Robertson, 
was  C.B.  and  A.D.C.  to  the  Queen. 
There  are  also  tablets  to  Lieut.  Mal- 
colm   G.   Shaw,    of   the   3rd    Light 
Cavalry,  who  died  of  sunstroke  at  the 
battle    of    Beawra,    and    to    Lieut. 
Augustus  Charles  Frankland,  who  was 
killed  in  Persia  at  the  battle  of  Khus- 
h^b,on  the  8th  of  February,  1857,  while 


gallantly  chaiging  the  enemy.     Re- 
mark  his    motto,    "Fnmke   Lande, 
Franke  Mynde,"  and  another  to  Cap- 
tains Seton  and  PeUe  and  81  K.C. 
officers  and  privates  of  the  1st  Bombay 
Fuslleers,  who    died   of   cholera    at 
EariUshi  in  a  very  brief  period ;  (also 
on  the  same  t^let)  to  Capt.  Rawlin- 
son,  Lieut  A.  P.  Hunt,  and  140  N.  C. 
officers  and  privates,  who  died  before 
the  return  of  the  regt.  to  its   Resi- 
dency ;  also  (on  the  same  tablet)  1st 
Lieut.  W.  A.  Anderson,  who  was  bar- 
barously murdered  at  Multdn,  and  to 
22   N.C.  officers  and  privates  killed 
during  that  siege.     In   this   church 
there  are  6  tall  round  pilli»s  and  2 
shorter,  faced  with  polished  chunam. 
There  are  also  2  sq.  pillars  on  which 
are  tablets.    The  Baptismal  Font  is  in 
the  S.W.  comer  of  the  church,  and  is 
surrounded  by  handsome  stained  glass 
windows.     St  Mary's  was  consecratctl 
by  Bishop  Heber  in    1825,  and  has 
seats  for  900   persons.     Close   to  the 
church  is  the  United  Service  Library, 
in  which  are  about  9000  volumes,  of 
which  800  are  biographical  works,  700 
hi8torical,rand  800  works  of  reference. 
The  monthly  subscription  is  4  rs.    To 
the  E.  of  St.  Mary's  Church  are  the 
General    Parade    Ground    and    Race 
Course,    the    latter    included    in  the 
former,  and  about  1  m.  long.      The 
races  are  generally  run  in  September, 
The  band-stand  is  at  the  S.W.  comer, 
and  close  to  it  are  the  Gymnasium,  St. 
Andrew's  Church,  and  the  Masonic 
Lodge,  and  to  the  N.  are  the  Ghorpiirl 
European  Barracks.    To  the  S.  are  the 
Wanawrl  Barracks.    While  in  this  di- 
rection, the  old  cemetery  in  East  Street 
may  be  visited,  it  not  being  far  from 
St  Paul's  Church.    This  cemetery  is 
not  well  kept.    Observe,  first,  a  hand- 
some stone  building  with  a  dome,  sup- 
ported by  6   pillars,  and  a  platform 
10  ft.  sq.    This  is  evidently  the  tomb 
of  some  one  of  importance,  but  there 
is  no  inscription.    From  7  other  tombs 
in  the  vicinity  the  tablets  have  been 
removed.    Here  is  the  tomb  of  Major 
John  Snodgrass,  of  the  16th  regt.  N.I., 
who  died  on  the  28th  of  Dec.,  1828. 
Having  been  arrested  for  malpractices 
in  his  department,   he  was  said  to 


Sect.  II. 


Eoute  4. — Fund, 


185 


have  shot  himself,  and  an  inquest 
wag  held  on  the  body  of  an  Euro- 
pean whose  head  was  too  much  shat- 
tered to  admit  of  recognition.  It 
has  beeii  strongly  assert^,  in  more 
than  one  quarter,  that  this  officer 
has  since  been  seen  in  Europe.  Here 
also  is  interi*ed  Maria  Jane  Jews- 
bury,  wife  of  the  Rev.  W.  K.  Flet- 
cher. She  died  Oct.  4th,  1833.  The 
epitaph  says,  "Endued  with  genius, 
her  name  lives  in  the  literature  of 
Britain," 

Another  day  may  be  spent  in 
visiting,  first  of  all  the  Sangam,  which 
has  already  been  referred  to.  Here  is 
the  confluence  of  the  Miitd  river 
flowing  from  the  S.  with  the  Mul& 
river  coming  from  the  N.W.  The 
Sangam  is  due  N.  of  the  old  city,  and 
is  reached  from  Ehirkl  by  the  Wel- 
leslej  Bridge,  which  is  482  ft.  long  and 
28}  ft.  broad.  It  crosses  the  IdMd 
river  just  S.  of  the  Sangam.  There  is 
the  following  inscription — "  The  ori- 
ginal wooden  structure  named  in 
honour  of  the  victories  obtained  in 
the  Dakhan  by  Major-General  Arthur 
Wellesley  (afterwards  F.M.  the  Duke 
of  Wellington,  K.G.),  constructed  by 
Captain  Kobert  Foster,  Bombay  Engi- 
neers, at  a  cost  of  Rs.  91,892,  and 
opened  in  1830  by  the  Honourable 
Major  -  General  Sir  John  Malcolm, 
G.C.B.,  Grovemor  of  Bombay,  having 
become  decayed  and  unsafe  for  traffic, 
was  removed,  and  the  present  bridge, 
designed  and  constructed  by  Colonel 
A.  U.  H.  Finch,  R.B.,  at  a  cost  of 
Bs.  110,932,  was  opened  to  the  public 
in  May,  1876  ;  His  Excellency  the 
Honourable  Sir  Philip  Wodehouse, 
K.O.B.,  Governor  and  President  in 
Council." 

On  the  right  hand,  going  to  Pund 
from  Kbi]*ki,  just  before  you  reach 
the  Wellesley  Bridge,  are  the  Pund 
Engineering  College  and  the  Judges' 
Chambers,  the  latter  a  long,  low  build- 
ing, quite  plain  inside.  Here  stood 
the  Presidency  of  the  British  Agent, 
Mountstuart  Elphinstone,  at  the  time 
of  the  rupture  with  the  last  Pesliwd, 
Bdji  R&o.  Mr.  Elphinstone  retired 
from  it  to  Khipkl  before  the  battle, 
and  the    Mar^thas    plundered    the  I 


building  anji  pulled  it  down.  The 
Indians  still  identify  this  spot  with 
the  Peshw&'s  rule,  and  say  Bdji  Rio's 
throne  was  here,  though  the  Peshw&'s 
actual  residence  was  in  the  Fort  of 
Pund.  The  Pund  Engineering  College 
is  to  the  W.  In  front  of  it,  but 
hidden  by  some  houses,  is  an  old 
cemetery,  the  very  existence  of  which 
had  been  lost  sight  of  by  the  Euro- 
peans at  Pun&.  It  is  enclosed  by  a 
ruinous  wall,  broken  considerably  in 
one  place,  the  whole  enclosure  being 
about  70  ft.  into  50  ft.  The  ground  is 
filthy,  and  of  all  the  21  tombs  en- 
closed there,  one  only  has  an  inscrip- 
tion. It  is  to  Mrs.  Caroline  Lodwick, 
who  died  Jan.  29th,  1819.  One  or 
two  of  the  tombs  are  very  large,  with 
domes  supported  by  pillars,  and  no 
doubt  belonged  to  persons  of  distinc- 
tion. At  the  W.  end  of  Wellesley 
Bridge  is  a  path  to  the  left,  which 
leads  dovm  to  a  pretty  garden  in  which 
there  are  several  temples.  The  first 
is  22  ft.  8  broad  at  base,  built  of  stones 
averaging  1  yd.  long  and  1  ft.  5  high, 
most  carefully  joined  together  without 
mortar.  There  are  stall's  to  the  top  of 
the  tower,  which  is  40  ft.  high.  The 
garden  is  filled  with  fruit  trees,  the 
produce  of  which  goes  to  some 
Oosains  who  do  not  live  on  the  spot. 
In  the  middle  of  the  garden  is  a  2nd 
temple,  nearly  as  broad  but  not  so 
high.  A  3rd  temple  at  the  end  of  the 
garden  was  built  by  Holkar,  who  de- 
stroyed %  old  temples  to  build  it.  All 
the  temples  are  to  Mah4deo,  and, 
though  small,  are  extremely  hand- 
some. At  300  yds.  from  the  Engi- 
neering College  is  Sir  Albert  Sassoon's 
house,  called  Garden  Reach.  It  was 
begun  by  Col.  Wilkins,  and  carried  on 
by  Mr.  Rustamjl  Jamshldji  JijibhAi, 
who  failed,  and  then  Sir  Albert  bought 
it.  It  was  built  between  1862  and 
1864,  and  cost  £80,000.  The  gardens 
are  beautiful  and  stretch  almost  to  the 
river :  15  gardeners  and  many  la- 
bourers are  employed  in  these  gardens, 
in  which,  besides  the  principal  house, 
are  detached  bangle  for  3  families. 
The  rooms  in  the  principal  house  are 
floored  with  marble.  The  floor  of  the 
ante-cbamber  to  the  dining-room  is 


186 


Boute  4. — Karli  to  Fund, 


Sect.  IL 


of  Carrara  marble,  and  that  of   the 
dining-room   is    of   Chinese  marble. 
The  dining-room  is    connected  with 
the  house  bj  a  long,  open  galloy,  and 
is  55  ft.  long  and  20  broad,  with  a 
verandah  10  ft.  broad  on  either  side. 
Beside  it  is  an  open  room,  the  sides  of 
which  are  of  carved  wood,  where  the 
family    dine    during   the     Feast    of 
Tabernacles.      Steps    lead   from    the 
dining-room  into  a  billiard-room  34  ft. 
long  and  21  broad.    You  ascend  to  the 
drawing-room  by  stairs,  and  here  is 
a  good  marble  bust  of  Garibaldi,  with 
copies  in  marble  of  the  best  Italian 
statues.    In  the  window  are  the  arms 
of  Rustamjl  Jijibh^i  in  stained  glass. 
The  drawing-room  is  50  ft.  long,  and 
has  a  vestibule,  forming  part  of   it, 
14  ft.  long,  so  that  the  total  length  is 
64  ft.,  and  at  either  end  is  a  terrace 
paved  with  marble  31  ft.  long  by  25 
broad.    The  ceiling  is  beautifully  de- 
corated by  Fund  artists,  in  imitation 
of  the  ceiling  of   the  ball-room    at 
Government    House,    called    Ganesh 
Xhind.    In  the  drawing-room  is  a  fine 
full-length  portrait  of  David  Sassoon, 
Sir  Albert's  father,  who  must  have 
been  strikingly  handsome.  A  fountain 
in  the  garden  cost  Rs.  40,000,  and  the 
water  tower,  which  is  125  ft.   high, 
cost  Bs.  100,000.    There  is  a  flag-staff 
tower  100  ft.  high.    Altogether  it  is  a 
noble   residence,  and    permission  to 
view  it  would  no  doubt  be  granted  on 
application.     From  this  a  drive  may 
be  taken  of  1}  m.  to  the  Jamshidjl 
Band  and  the  Fitzgerald  Bridge.    The 
Band  is  of  stone  thrown  across  the 
Mul&  river,  and  on  the  S.  side  of  it 
are  pretty  gardens  of  6  acres,  called 
the  Victoria  Gardens,  in  which  the 
band  plays,  and  many  Indian  ladies 
promenade.      There  are  2  flights  of 
steps,   1  of  13  and  1  of  11,  down  to 
the  water,  and  at  them  is  the  fol- 
lowing inscription : — 


The  Jamshldji  Band  Water-works, 

Cnnstructed  at  the  suggestion,  and  carried  out 

under  the  auspices  of 

Sir  Jamshidjl  JijibMi,  Knight, 

of  Bombay, 

Wlio  munificently  contributed  the  sum  of 

Rs.  173,050  towanls  the  undertaking, 

In  which  the  eminent  individual  whose  name 

it  bears  had  in  view  the  noble  and  philan* 


thropic  design  of  fbmtshing  the  inhabitant* 
of  I^n&, 
A  nerer-lkiling  supply  of  pure  water. 
The  work  was  commenoed  in  the  Christian 

year  1844, 
Corresponding   with  the  Shanshal  Tezd^ird 

Era  1214-15,  and 

Completed  in  1850,  under  the  superintendenco 

Of  Captain  Thomas,  of  the  Bombay 

Engineers. 

The  total  amount  of  expenses  incurred  on  this 

useful  and  charitable  undertaking  was 

Rs.  257,499» 

The  view  of  the  Fitzgerald  Bridge, 
with  its  27  arches,  from  the  Band  ;  of 
the  Cascade  at  the  Band,  which  has  a 
fall  of  about  8  ft.  ;  and  of  the  broad 
stream,  350  yds.  wide,  above  it,  on 
which  rowing  matches  take  place, 
chiefly  in  August,  starting  from  the 
Club  boat-house  on  the  Pnii4  side  of 
the  Band,  is  very  pretty. 

Hie  City,  during  the  flourishing  times 
of  the  Peshw&s,  probably  contained, 
inclusive  of  troops,  twice  as  many  in- 
habitants as  now.    For  a  native  town 
the  streets  are  wide,  and  some  of  the 
older  houses  are  substantial  buildings. 
It  is  divided  into  7  quarters,  named 
after  the  days  of  the  week.    In  the 
Shanwdr  qua^r,  or  Saturday  division, 
are  the  remains  of  the  Peshw4's  Castle, 
called  Ji!in4w&d&,  or  "old  palace,"  a 
large  enclosure  about  180  yds.  sq.     It 
was  built  by  the  grandfather  of  the 
last  Peshw4,  and  was  a  grand  building 
till  burned  down  to  the  first  stoiy  in 
1827.    Mrs.  Graham,  in  1809,  speaks 
of  it  as  surrounded  by  "  high,  thick 
walls,  with  four  large  towers  "  (Joum. 
p.  78),  there  being  but  one  entrance 
through  a  high  pointed  arch,  on  each 
side  of  which  is  a  tower.    The  massive 
walls  still  remain.      In  front  is  an 
open  space,  where  a  market  for  ve- 
getables is  held.    About  110  yds.  to 
the  N.  is  a  stone  bridge,  over  which  a 
road  leads  to  the  village  of  Bamburda 
and  the  Sangam.    The  doors  are  very 
large,  and  covered  with  iron  spikes. 
Above  the  gateway  is  a  small  bcdcony 
supported  on  pillars.    Here  is  the  ter- 
race from  which,  on  the  morning  of 
the  25th  October,  1795,*  the  young 
Peshwd,   Mhddu  R&o,  threw  himself, 
and  died  two  days  afterwards  of  the 

*  Grant  Duff,  vol.  iil,  p.  126. 


Sect.  11. 


Boute  4. — Fund — Fdrvati, 


187 


njuries  he  received  in  the  fall.  On 
the  22nd  he  had  shown  himself  to 
his  troops,  who  passed  before  him  in 
thousands,  a  sea  of  horsemen.  It 
was  the  festival  of  the  Dasahr^.  and 
en  this  occasion  that  national  fete  of 
the  Mardthas  was  conducted  with 
nnusnal  splendonr.  In  the  evening 
the  young  PeshwA  received  his  great 
chiefs,  and  the  ambassadors  of  foreign 
courts,  in  his  accustomed  manner ; 
but  the  restraints  imposed  upon  him 
by  his  minister,  Ndn4  Famavls,  had 
stung  him  to  the  quick,  and  he  was 
then  meditating  the  act  of  self-de- 
struction, which,  three  days  after,  he 
accomplished.  Here,  too,  on  the  80th 
of  August,  1773,  NArdyan  RAo,  at  the 
age  of  eighteen,  after  he  had  been 
but  nine  months  PeshwA,  was  savagely 
murdered,  by  Somar  Singh  and  Tra- 
liyA  Powar,  two  of  his  guard.  The 
unfortunate  youth  had  confined  his 
uncle,  RaghunAth  RAo,  in  an  apart- 
ment of  the  palace,  and  RaghunAth 
had  commissioned  these  two  assassins 
to  seize  the  young  PeshwA,  and  thus 
bring  about  his  own  release.  But  the 
vindictive  Anandi  BAl,  the  wife  of 
BaghunAth,  secretly  altered  the  word 
"  seize "  to  "  kill,"  and,  in  obedience 
to  the  mandate,  Somar  Sing  forced 
his  victim  even  &om  his  nucleus  arms, 
to  which  he  had  fled  for  refuge,  and 
stabbed  him,  killing  with  the  same 
blow  a  faithful  servant  who  had  cast 
himself  on  his  body. 

Not  far  from  this  castle  is  a  street 
in  which,  under  the  PeshwAs,  offenders 
were  executed  by  being  trampled  to 
death  by  elephants.  One  of  the  most 
memorable  of  these  executions,  on 
account  of  the  princely  rank  of  the 
sufferer,  was  that  of  Wittojl  Holkar, 
brother  of  that  Jeswant  RAo  Holkar 
who,  the  same  year,  won  the  battle  of 
PunA.  The  last  of  the  PeshwAs,  BAji 
BAo,  beheld  the  agonies  of  the  victim 
from  a  window  of  his  palace,  where, 
on  the  morning  of  the  1st  of  April, 
1800,  he  took  his  seat  with  his  favourite 
BAlaji  Kunjar,  in  order  to  glut  his 
eyes  with  the  revolting  sight.  In  the 
"  Wednesday "  quarter  of  the  city,  in 
the  WishrAm  BA^  to  the  S.,  is  another 
palace  called  the  BudhwAr,  or  "  Wed- 


nesday." Here  are  now  public  offices 
and  an  English  school  for  the  natives. 
This  school  has  been  amalgamated 
with  the  Sanskrit  CoUege,  which  was, 
in  1821,  established  for  the  study  of 
the  ancient  literature  of  the  country. 
This  also  has  been  injured  by  fiie.  Jn 
the  same  quai'ter  is  the  quondam  re- 
sidence of  NAnA  Farnavis,  a  shabby 
mansion  with  a  small  court-yard  and 
fountain,  and  many  small  dark  rooms 
and  dingy  passages.  On  the  outskirts 
of  the  town  is  a  very  large  Jain 
temple  with  Chinese-looking  orna- 
ments. "In  a  small  room,*  with  a 
ceiling,  walls,  and  pillars  painted  red 
and  green,  and  all  the  quaint  orna- 
ments carved  and  painted  the  same 
colour,  there  is  a  small  square  cage 
with  bars  in  which  are  two  marble 
elephants,  and  on  each  side  a  little 
white  marble  goat." 

PdrvatL — ^A  visit  to  PArvatl  is  in- 
dispensable. The  hill,  with  its  temples, 
is  situated  at  the  extreme  S.  of  the 
town,  and  the  road  to  Sinhgarh  passes 
a  little  to  the  N.  of  it.  On  the  way 
to  it,  at  no  great  distance,  is  the  little 
village  of  Bambiira,  where,  in  former 
times,  a  huge  gon  was  fired  every 
evening  as  a  MarAtha  Curfew,  to  warn 
honest  folk  to  keep  within  their  houses. 
On  one  occasion  several  BrAhmans, 
disregarding  this  warning,  remained 
out  till  late  and  were  locked  up  by  the 
police,  on  which  the  people  insisted  on 
the  superintendent  of  police  being 
given  up  to  them,  and  stoned  him  to 
death,  though  he  had  not  even  been 
informed  that  the  BrAhmans  had  been 
arrested  by  his  satellites.  The  HirA 
BAgh,  or  "  Diamond  Garden,"  is  also 
passed  on  the  road.  There  is  a  ceihe- 
tery  here,  very  well  kept  and  shaded 
with  trees.  Here  is  interred  the  cele- 
brated African  traveller,  Sir  William 
Comwallis  Harris,  Major  in  the  Bom- 
bay Engineers,  who  died  October  9th, 
1848.  He  was  the  author  of  "Wild 
Sports  in  the  West,"  and  the  "  High- 
lands of  Ethiopia."  In  the  Presby- 
terian cemetery,  which  adjoins  to  the 
E.,  are  2  very  handsome  monuments 
of  beautiful  polished  granite,  brought 

*  Lady  Falkland's  "  Chow-Chow,"  vol.  I 
p.  276. 


J88 


EotUe  4. — Karli  to  Fund. 


Sect.  II. 


from  Scotland  :  one  is  to  the  wife  of 
Thomas  Blaney ;  it  is  an  obelisk,  the 
shaft  of  which  is  11  ft.  high ;  the  other 
is  to  the  wife  of  Mr.  Jollej,  Harbour- 
master of  Bombay,  and  is  a  granite 
column  8  ft.  8  in.  high.  The  HlrA 
Bdgh,  with  its  lake  and  island,  and 
the  Villa  of  the  Peshwto,  Mosque,  and 
temples,  is  a  charming  place  for  a  pic- 
nic. Lord  Yalentia  mentions  it  in  his 
account  of  a  visit  to  the  Peshwd  in 
1804.  ThetempleatP^rvati  was  built 
by  the  Peshwd  B41aji  Bdji  R4o,  who 
reigned  from  1740  A.D.  to  June,  1761. 
He  never  recovered  the  shock  of  the 
fatal  Mar4tha  defeat  at  P4nipat.  "  He 
slowly  retraced  his  steps  towards  Pun4 
from  the  Nirbadd,  but  his  faculties 
were  much  impaired.  A  rapid  decay 
of  the  constitution  ensued,  and  he  ex- 
pired in  the  end  of  June  at  the  temple 
of  P&rvati,  a  conspicuous  building 
erected  by  him  in  the  S.  environs  of 
PunA."  (Grant  Duff,  vol.  ii.  p.  157.) 
The  temple  is  said  to  have  been  built 
in  honour  of  the  BAjd  of  SdtArA.  In 
order  ^o  reach  the  place  of  ascent, 
which  is  on  the  E.  side,  the  Khadak- 
wasla  canal  must  be  passed.  This 
canal  comes  from  the  great  reservoir 
10  m.  to  the  8.  of  Pund.  Here  the 
water  runs  from  the  top  of  an  aque- 
duct, which  forms  a  bridge  here,  under 
which  you  must  pass,  though  the 
ground  is  excessively  filthy  all  around. 
You  then  ascend  62  steps,  each  of 
which  has  a  long  slant  h^yond  it  of 
from  10  to  35  fit.,  and  this  brings 
you  to  a  flight  of  34  small  steps, 
which  lead  to  the  Court  of  the  temple. 
At  each  comer  of  this  court  are  smaller 
shrines  to  Surya,  *the  Sun,'  Vishnu, 
Eartikeya,  the  Hindii  Mars,  and  Dur- 
g&.  The  principal  temple  is  to  P^- 
vatl,  the  wife  of  Shiva,  so  called  from 
Parvat,  '*  a  mountain."  She  is  said  to 
be  the  daughter  of  the  Him&lya.  As- 
cending 16  narrow  steps  you  mount 
on  the  wall,  from  which  is  a  fine  and 
extensive  view  over  PunA  and  Khifki. 
From  the  bastion  on  which  you  sit  to 
the  ground  outside  is  41  ft.,  but  this 
ground  is  a  considerable  height  above 
the  plain.  The  view  ranges  over  PAr- 
vati  Tank  to  the  E.  by  N.,  and  PArvati 
village  S,  of  the  tank  over  the  HirA 


B^ij^h  to  St.  Mary's  Church  and  the 
Jews'  Synagogue  far  to  the  N.E.  A 
small  bangU  on  the  bank  of  the  tank 
is  noted  as  the  place  where  a  civilian 
shot  himself.  The  chief  Brdhman  at 
PArvati  speaks  English  quite  fluently. 
He  will  expect  a  donation  of  2  rs.  or 
so  for  the  bi^efit  of  the  temple,  and 
the  numerous  blind  persons  who  fre- 
quent the  hill  will  not  be  satisfied 
without  receiving  alms.  To  the  W.  of 
the  hill  is  a  ruined  palace  of  the  Pesh- 
wAs,  which  was  struck  by  lightning  in 
1817,  the  year  of  BAjl  RAo*s  overthrow 
by  the  British,  and  destroyed  as  a  re- 
sidence. In  the  temple,  it  should  be 
said,  is  a  silver  image  of  Shiva,  with 
images  of  P4rvati  and  Ganesh,  said  to 
be  of  gold,  seated  on  his  knees.  The 
temple  was  built  in  1749,  and  cost 
£100,000.  During  the  Diw&li  the 
temple  is  lighted  up  in  a  beautiful 
manner.  On  the  N.W.  side  is  a  pic- 
turesque Moorish -looking  window, 
whence  it  is  said  Bdji  B&o  watched 
the  defeat  of  his  troops  at  Ehi^kl.  At 
the  foot  of  the  hill  is  a  square  field, 
which,  in  the  time  of  the  Peshwds,  was 
inclosed  by  high  brick  walls.  Here  at 
the  end  of  the  rains,  about  the  time  of 
the  Dasahra,  gifts  in  money  were  pre- 
sented to  all  Brihmans.  In  order  to 
prevent  the  holy  men  from  receiving 
more  than  their  share,  they  were  passed 
into  this  inclosure,  at  the  gate  of  which 
stood  a  vast  cauldron  filled  with  red 
pigment.  Each  as  he  entered  was 
marked  with  this,  and  nothing  was 
given  tUl  all  had  gone  in.  They  were 
then  let  out  one  by  one,  and  3,  4,  or 
5  rs.  were  given  to  each.  On  one  occa- 
sion the  PeshwA  is  said  to  have  lavished 
away  £60,000  in  this  manner. 

Ganesh  Khin4» — Another  indispens- 
able and  pleasant  drive  is  to  the  Go- 
vernment House  at  Pund,  called  Ganesh 
Khind.  Khliid  6i°:nifies  a  cleft  or  nar- 
row  pass  between  hills,  and  Ganesh  is 
the  God  of  Wisdom  and  Son  of  Shiva. 
To  arrive  at  it  you  pass  along  a  road 
which  leads  from  the  city  across  the 
Miit^  and  enters  the  Ganesh  Khiiid 
road  S.  of  the  Engineer  College  and 
close  to  it.  The  house  is  to  the  N.W. 
of  Pdrvati,  stands  on  slightly  rising 
gronnd,  and  is  c^bont  3  m,  from  Fund 


Sect.  11. 


Route  4:,'^^Sikhaarh. 


189 


City,  which  is  shut  out  from  view  by 
hills,  though  PArvatl  is  very  distinctly 
seen.  At  present  the  grounds  sur- 
rounding the  house,  although  planted 
with  young  trees,  are  too  bare;  but 
some  years  hence,  when  the  trees  are 
grown,  the  approach  will  be  pretty 
enough.  The  house  looks  like  a  modem 
French  chateau.  There  is  a  tall  slim 
tower  80  ft.  high  and  a  facade  with  2 
porches,  which  do  not  correspond.  To 
describe  the  residence  in  a  single  line, 
it  is  an  English  gentleman's  country 
house  with  exceptionally  fine  recep- 
tion rooms.  The  lines  for  the  Body- 
guard are  within  the  grounds,  1  m. 
from  the  house  to  the  S.W.  There  is 
a  tank  also  in  the  same  direction  be- 
tween the  lines  and  the  house.  The 
rooms  on  the  ground-floor  are  as  fol- 
lows : — ^from  W.  to  E.  a  hall,  which  is 
entered  through  a  small  porch,  and 
which  leads  to  a  drawing-room  81  ft. 
from  W.  to  E.  and  30  ft.  from  S.  to  N. 
There  are  2  magnificent  chandeliers 
here,  and  a  gallery  for  the  orchestra. 
E.  of  the  hall  is  the  Darbdr  room, 
which  is  31  ft.  9  in.  from  W.  to  E., 
and  23  ft.  from  S.  to  N.  N.  of  this 
and  £.  of  the  drawing-room  is  a  flower 
gallery  or  garden  corridor  90  ft.  long 
from  W.  to  E.,  and  E.  of  the  darbdr 
room  is,  first  of  all,  a  dining-room  59 
ft.  from  W.  to  E.  by  29  ft.  from  S.  to  N. 
This  forms  the  W.  division  of  the 
house.  The  central  division  comes 
next,  and  is  entered  by  a  carriage 
porch  30  ft.  6  in.  from  W.  to  E.  and 
19  ft.  3  in.  from  N.  to  S.  By  this  a 
loggia  is  entered  17  ft.  8  in.  from  W. 
to  B.,  and  10  ft.  6  in.  from  S.  to  N. 
This  opens  into  a  cortile  27  ft.  8  in. 
from  W.  to  E.,  and  beyond  this  to  the 
N.  is  the  billiard-room,  with  a  pave- 
ment of  encaustic  tiles  and  lighted 
with  6  elegant  chandeliers.  Thus  sa- 
loon is  the  same  length  from  W.  to  E. 
as  the  cortile,  but  is  broader ;  beyond  it 
to  the  N.  are  several  small  rooms.  E. 
of  the  centre  division  is,  first  of  all, 
a  dark  room,  then  a  corridor  49  ft.  4  in. 
by  29  ft.  8  in.,  and  beyond  that  again 
to  the  E.  is  a  drawing-room  39  ft.  6  in. 
from  8.  to  N.  Above  are  the  bed- 
rooms, reached  by  a  very  handsome 
staircase,  the  woodwork  of  which  is 


very  beautiful.  Outside  the  building, 
to  the  N.,  are  the  stables  and  servants' 
rooms.  From  the  top  of  the  tower 
there  is  a  fine  view.  Khirki,  with  its 
powder- works,  and  the  Dakhan  College 
are  seen  to  the  N.,  and  Pdrvati  to  the 
S.E. 

SIGHTS   IN  THE    VICINITY  OF  PUNA. 

Sinhgarh. — This  is  a  place  very 
famous  in  Mar^t^a  annals,  and  very 
interesting  on  account  of  scenery  as 
well  as  historic  recollections.  It  is 
distant  from  Fund  about  12  m.  S.W. 
and  is  thus  described  by  Grant  Duff, 
voL  i.  p.  241,  where  he  speaks  of  its 
astonishing  capture  by  the  renowned 
Tdnajl  MAlusrd,  in  February,  1670  :— 
"  Sinhga^h  is  situated  on  the  E.  side  of 
the  great  Sahy  Mri  range,  near  the  point 
at  which  the  Purandar  Hills  branch 
off  into  the  Dakhan.  With  these  hills 
it  communicates  only  on  the  E.  and 
W.  by  very  high  narrow  ridges,  while 
on  the  S.  and  N.  it  has  the  appearance 
of  a  rugged  isolated  mountain,  with 
an  ascent  of  i  m.,  in  many  parts  nearly 
perpendicular.  After  arriving  at  this 
height  there  is  an  immense  craggy 
precipice  of  black  rock  upwards  of 
40  ft.  nigh,  and  surmounting  the  whole 
there  is  a  strong  stone  wall  with  towers. 
The  fort  is  of  a  triangular  shape,  its 
interior  upwards  of  2  m.  in  circum- 
ference, and  the  exterior  presents,  on 
all  sides,  the  stupendous  barrier  al- 
ready mentioned,  so  that,  except  by 
the  gates,  entrance  seems  impossible. 
From  the  summit,  when  the  atmos- 
phere is  clear,  is  seen  to  the  E.  the 
narrow  and  beautiful  valley  of  the 
Nird ;  to  the  N.  a  great  plain,  in  the 
forepart  of  which  Fund,  where  Shivaji 
passed  his  youth,  is  a  conspicuous  ob- 
ject. To  the  S.  and  W.  appear  bound- 
less masses  of  mountains  lost  in  the 
blue  clouds,  or  mingled  by  distance 
with  the  sky.  In  that  quarter  lies 
Raigarh,  from  which  place,  directed 
by  Tdnaji  Mdlusr^,  the  thousand  Md- 
walis,  prepared  for  the  attempt  on 
Sinhgafh,  set  out  by  different  paths, 
known  only  to  themselves,  which  led 
them  to  unite  near  the  fortress,  ac- 
cording to  the  words  of  the  Mardtha 


190 


HotUe  4. — Karli  to  Fund. 


Sect  11. 


MS.,  'on  the  9th  night  of  the  dark 
half  of  the  moon,  in  the  month  M4gh.' 
Tdnaji  divided  his  men ;  one  half  re- 
mained at  a  little  distance,  with  orders 
to  advance  if  necessary,  and  the  other 
'half  lodged  themselves  undiscovered 
at  the  foot  of  the  rock.  Choosing  a 
part  most  difficult  of  access,  as  being 
the  least  liable  to  discovery,  one  of 
their  number  mounted  the  rock  and 
made  fast  a  ladder  of  ropes,  by  which 
they  ascended  one  by  one  and  lay 
down  as  they  gained  the  inside. 
Scarce  300  had  entered  the  fort,  when 
somethiug  occasioned  an  alarm  among 
the  garrison  that  attracted  their  at- 
tention to  the  quarter  by  which  the 
M^walis  were  ascending.  A  man  ad- 
vanced to  ascertain  what  was  the 
matter.  A  deadly  arrow  from  a  bow- 
man silently  answered  his  inquiries ; 
but  a  noise  of  voices  and  a  running  to 
arms  induced  Tdnaji  to  push  forward, 
in  hopes  of  still  surprising  them.  The 
bowmen  plied  their  arrows  in  the  di- 
rection of  the  voices,  till  a  blaze  of 
blue  lights  and  a  number  of  torches 
kindled  by  the  garrison  showed  the 
B&jpiits  armed  or  arming,  and  dis- 
covered their  assailants.  A  desperate 
conflict  ensued.  The  Mdwa|ls,  though 
thus  prematurely  discovered,  and  op- 
posed by  very  superior  numbers,  were 
gaining  ground  when  Tdnajl  M41usr^ 
fell.  They  then  lost  confidence,  and 
were  running  to  the  place  where  they 
had  escaladed ;  but  by  that  time  the 
reserve,  led  by  Tanajl's  brother,  Su- 
lyaji,  had  entered.  On  learning  what 
}iad  happened,  Suryaji  rallied  the 
fugitives,  asked  '  Who  amongst  them 
would  leave  their  father's  (commanders) 
remains  to  be  tossed  into  a  pit  by 
Mah&rs?'  told  them  the  ropes  were 
destroyed,  and  now  was  the  time  to 
prove  themselves  Shivajl's  Mdwalfs. 
This  address,  the  loss  of  T&najl,  the 
;irrival  of  their  companions,  and  the 
presence  of  a  leader,  made  them  turn 
with  a  resolution  which  nothing  could 
withstand.  *HarlHar!  MahA  Deo  I' 
their  usual  ciy  on  desperate  onsets, 
resounded  as  they  closed,  and  they 
soon  found  themselves  in  possession  of 
the  fort.  Their  total  loss  was  esti- 
mated at  one-third  their  number,  or 


upwards  of  300  killed  or  disabled.  In 
the  morning  500  gallant  R4jpiits,  toge- 
ther with  their  commander,  were  found 
dead  or  wounded ;  a  few  had  con- 
cealed themselves  and  submitted ;  but 
several  hundreds  had  chosen  the  des- 
perate alternative  of  venturing  over 
the  rock,  and  many  were  dashed  to 
pieces  in  the  attempt.  The  precon- 
certed signal  of  success  was  setting  on 
fire  a  thatched  house  in  the  fort,  a 
joyful  intimation  to  Shivaji  ;  but  when 
he  heard  that  Tdnaji  M41usr6  was 
killed,  he  was  deeply  concerned,  and 
afterwards,  on  being  congratulated, 
mournfully  replied,  in  allusion  to  the 
name  he  had  given  the  fort,*  *  The  den 
is  taken,  but  the  lion  is  slain :  we  have 
gained  a  fort,  but  alas!  I  have  lost 
Tanaji  Mdlusrd.'  Shivaji,  though  he 
seldom  bestowed  pecuniary  gifts  on  the 
Mdwalis,  on  this  occasion  gave  every 
private  soldier  a  sUver  bracelet  or 
bangle,  and  proportionate  rewards  to 
the  officers."  The  surprising  character 
of  the  night  escalade  above  recorded 
will  be  appreciated  by  those  who  now 
ascend  peacefully  in  their  pdlkls,  and 
in  the  daytime.  The  ascent  is  in  part 
almost  perpendicular,  and  one  is  as- 
tonished that  the  pdlki  bearers  never 
slip  back  and  roU  down  into  the  plain. 
In  1665,  Shivaji  had  surrendered  Siuh- 
garh  to  Aurangzlb,  but  retook  it,  as 
described,  in  1670.  In  1701,  Aurang- 
zlb recovered  it ;  but  ShanJkarji  NA- 
rdyan  Sachiva  again  captured  it  in 
1705.*  On  the  1st  of  March,  1818,  it 
was  taken  by  the  English  without  loss. 
The  garrison,  1100  men,  of  whom  400 
were  Arabs,  capitulated,  after  being 
shelled  for  3  days,  in  which  time  1400 
shells  and  upwards  of  2000  shot  were 
fired  into  the  place.  Lady  Falkland  f 
notices  the  splendid  balsam  trees, 
which  completely  cover  the  sides  of 
the  path  that  leads  up  to  the  fort,  and 
are  many  of  them  nearly  10  ft.  high.  In 
the  old  ruined  gateways  hang  festoons 
of  leaves  apd  fiowers,  almost  touching 
the  traveller's  head  as  he  enters.  Being 
4162  ft.  above  the  sea,  Sinhgarh  is  a 

'^  It  was  originally  called  Kond&nah,  bat 
Shlvi^i  himself  changed  its  name  to  Siiihgaf  h. 
See  Grant  Dnff,  vol.  I  p.  134. 

t  "  Chow-Chow,"  vol  i.  p.  303. 


Sect.  IL 


Itoute  4. — Sihhgarh, 


191 


delightful  retreat  for  Europeans  from 
the  heat  of  the  plains.  The  air  is  cool 
and  the  views  beautiful.  Here,  for 
some  time,  was  confined,  in  a  wooden 
cage,  the  Brihman  Bdbji  Pant  GokU, 
the  murderer  of  the  Vaughans. 

It  will  be  desirable  to  leave  Fund 
very  early,  in  order  to  reach  Sinhgarh 
before  the  heat  becomes  excessive,  and 
to  start  as  early  as  4  a.m.  in  a  carriage 
which  Mr.  Framji  Ardasir,  mail  con- 
tractor, will  supply  according  to  rates, 
which  hereafter  will  be  given.     PAr- 
vatl  will  be  reached  in  half-an-hour, 
and  the  7th  milestone  on  the  Sinh- 
garb  road  will  be  reached  in  half-an- 
hour  more,  about  5  o'clock.    Near  this 
milestone  horses  will  be  changed,  and 
between  the  10th  and  11th  mile  the 
lake  of  Ehadakwasla  will  be  reached. 
The  word  signifies  "  stone  junction," 
from  Ehadak,  "a  rock,"  and  Wasla, 
"  a  junction."    This  place  is  not  8  m. 
as  the  crow  flies  from  Fund,  but  10^  m. 
by  the  road.    Here  a  stone  embank- 
ment has  been  thrown  across  a  stream, 
and  a  lake  has  been  formed,  which 
supplies  Pund  with  water.    The  em- 
bankment is  1  m.  long,  and  the  lake 
formed  by  it  is  from  10  to  12  ,or  13  m. 
long,  according  to  the    season.      At 
the  end  of  March  the  top  of  the  em- 
bankment is  30  ft.  above  the  water, 
but  during  the  rains  the  water  rises 
very   considerably.     There    is    some 
shooting  about  this  spot.    There  are 
2  canals  branching  off  from  the  lake, 
one  on  each  side,  for  irrigation ;  that 
on  the  N.  side  is  16  m.  long.    Before 
reaching  the   foot   of   the   Sinhgarh 
MountsSnthe  13th  milestone  is  passed, 
and  just  before  the  14th  the  carriage 
is  exchanged  for  a  chair,  in  which  the 
active  people  of  the  locality  will  carry 
the  traveller  to  the  summit  of   the 
motmtain.     After  300  yds.  the  ascent 
becomes  very  steep;  the  total  length 
of  the  ascent  is  2^  m. ;  a  much  easier 
route  being  now  taken  than  that  men- 
tioned by  Grant  Duff,  though  it  is 
quite  steep  enough  even  now.     The 
summit  of  Sinhga^h  is,  as  has  been 
said,  4162  ft.  above  the  sea ;  but  from 
this  must  be  deducted  1825  ft.,  the 
height  of  the  spot  where  you  begin  to 
mount  in  the  chair,  so  that  2337  ft.  is 


the    hejght    actually   ascended    from 
thence.  The  Kulls  who  carry  the  chair 
are  very  careless,  and  though   they 
stoutly    assert  that  they  never  fall, 
they  sometimes  stumble  so  badly  that 
the   traveller   incurs   risk    of    being 
pitched   over   the    precipice.     After 
reaching  the  scarp  of  the  hill,  you 
pass  through  8  gateways  into  the  fort, 
the  area  inside  being  about  40  acres. . 
There  are  several  bangles  on  this  pla- 
teau.   For  one  of  these,  according  to 
time  of  the  year  and  size  of  the  bangld, 
from  200  to  600  rs.  rent  a  month  will 
be  asked.    At  one  of  these  banglds  not 
far  from  the  gateway  are  stables  hewn 
out  of  the  solid  rock,  and  used  by  the 
Mar&tha  freebootew  in  Shivaji's  time. 
There  is  a  very  nice  banglA  with  a 
pretty  garden  belonging  to  Pestanjl 
Ehdn  Bah&dur.    The  air  is  cool  even 
in  the  hot  weather ;  but  the  chief  dis- 
tadvantage  is  the  isolation  in  a  narrow 
space,  for  the  sides  of  the  mountain 
are  too  steep  for  any  but  Mardtha 
mountaineers  to   descend  except   at 
the  one  path   by  which  the  fort  is 
entered.    About  \  m.  from  the  gate- 
way to  the  E.  is  a  temple  to  Rdm 
R4jd,  and  near  it  are  wells  and  a  tank 
hewn  out  of  the  solid  rock.   The  views 
over  the  low  country  are  charming. 
Almost  due  S.  is  seen  the  lake  of  Kha- 
dakwasl4;  and  to  the  S.E.,  about  7  m. 
as  the  crow  flies,  but  11  m.  by  the 
road,  is   the    mountain    and  fort  of 
Purandar.    This  mountain  is  rather 
lower    than    Sinhgayh,    the    highest 
point,  according  to  Grant  Duff  (vol.  i. 
p.  206),  being  only  1700  ft.  above  the 
plain,  and  therefore  more  than  600  ft. 
lower  than   Sinhgayh.    There  are  at 
Furandar  2  forts,  an  upper  and  lower, 
situated  more  than  300ft.  below  the  sum- 
mit. These  forts  are  protected  by  a  per- 
pendicular scjirp,  which  is  weakened 
rather  than  strengthened  by  curtains 
and  bastions  of  masonry.    In  1665, 
R&jA  Jay  Sing,    the  famous  Rdjpiit 
prince  and  general  of  Aurangzlb,  as- 
sisted by  the  Afghan  Diler  lOiAn.  be- 
sieged both  Sihhgarh  and  Furandar. 
Shivajl  was  then  under  superstitious 
apprehensions,  but  his  general,  Bdji 
Piirvoe  or  Frabhu,  a  DeshpAndya  of 
MhAr,  who  was  havalddr  of  the  fort 


192 


BotUe  4. — Karli  to  Fund, 


Sect.  II. 


of  Parandar,  maintained  his  post  with 
bravery  and  ability.  He  had  a  gar- 
rison under  him  of  the  heroic  M&walis 
and  Hetkaris,  and  he  disputed  every 
point  of  the  approaches;  at  last  the 
Afgh&ns  succeeded  in  shattering  the 
scarp  and  entered  the  lower  fort,  but 
were  driven  out  again  by  the  havalddr, 
who  pursued  the  Afghans,  until  Diler 
Khdn  pierced  the  gall^mt  B4ji  with  an 
arrow  and  killed  him  on  the  spot.  The 
Afghans  then  retook  the  fort,  but  were 
again  obliged  to  relinquish  it.  Diler 
Khiin  then  attacked  Budra  Ma^all,  a 
small  detached  fort  at  the  N.E.  angle 
of  Purandar,  which  commands  a  great 
part  of  its  works.  After  taking  this, 
Diler  brought  up  guns  to  breach  the 
upper  fort ;  and  after  firing  for  weeks 
reduced  the  garrison  to  such  a  state 
that  they  proposed  to  surrender.  How- 
ever in  July,  Shivaji  himself  arrived  in 
Jay  Sing's  camp,  and  concluded  a  con-, 
ventiou  with  him  by  which  he  sur- 
rendered 20  forts,  and  among  them 
Purandar  and  Sinhgarh.  In  1670, 
Shivaji  recaptured  Purandar  with  but 
little  difficulty,  probably  from  his  local 
knowledge,  it  having  been  one  of 
the  first  places  he  acquired  so  long 
before  as  1647.  In  1714,  Yesu  BAi, 
mother  of  the  Pant  Sachiva,  gave  up 
Purandar  to  Bdldji  Wi^wandth, 
founder  of  the  Peshwa  dynasty,  as 
a  place  of  refuge  for  his  family  then 
residing  in  S^swad.  On  the  same  pre- 
tence (Grant  Duff,  vol.  i.  p.  437),  BA- 
laji  obtained  a  grant  of  Purandar 
from  S4hu  Rdja  of  SAtdr4,  "  by  which 
concession  that  prince  forged  the  first 
link  in  the  chain  which  afterwards 
fettered  his  own  power,  and  reduced 
his  successors  to  empty  pageants  of 
Br4hman  policy."  On  the  1st  of 
March,  1776,  a  treaty  of  18  articles 
was  signed  at  Parandar  by  Col.  Upton, 
agent  for  Warren  Hastings,  and  by 
Ndn4  Famavls,  by  which  Salsette  was 
to  be  retained  by  the  English,  or  ex- 
changed for  territory  of  £30,000  annual 
revenue,  as  the  Govemor-Greneral 
might  decide ;  the  revenue  of  Bha- 
nich  was  ceded  to  the  English,  and 
£120,000  guaranteed  to  the  Bombay 
Government  in  payment  of  expenses 
incurred,  and  the  treaty  between  that 


Government  and  Raghubd  PeshwA  was 
formally  annulled.  On  the  14th  of 
March,  1818,  Purandar  was  attacked 
by  the  English  column  under  General 
Pritzla.  (Blacker'8"MardthaWar,"p. 
241.)  The  British  advanced  by  way 
of  Jijiiri,  and  at  S&swad  had  had  some 
little  trouble  in  capturing  a  strong 
stone  building,  in  which  200  Arabs 
Sindhls,  and  Hindustanis  had  shut 
themselves  up  with  some  small  guns  ; 
"the  walls  were  so  substantial  that 
6-pounders  were  found  incapable  of 
affecting  them.  18-pounders  were  then 
brought  up;  but  though  these  also 
appe^ired  to  nuike  as  little  impression 
on  the  walls,  they  had  sufficient  effect 
on  the  minds  of  the  garrison  to  induce 
their  surrender  at  discretion."  The 
British  at  once  opened  a  mortar  bat- 
tery on  Purandar,  and  on  the  15th, 
Wajragayh,  wrongly  called  Wuzwer 
Ghur  by  Blacker,  surrendered ;  and  as 
it  commanded  Purandar,  the  KiPaddr 
of  that  place  was  compelled  to  capi- 
tulate on  the  16th.*  Purandar  has 
been  used  as  a  convalescent  station, 
but  as  there  is  no  T.  B.  there,  it  will 
be  necessary  to  make  some  arrange- 
ment with  a  friend  before  visiting  the 
place.  The  sportsman  may  find  pan- 
thers in  the  hills,  and  deer  and  other 
game  in  the  neighbourhood. 

Chdkan. — This  place  is  15  m.  as  the 
crow  files  due  N.  of  Pund.  There  is  a 
very  fair  road  to  it,  though  the  ascent 
to  the  fort  itself  is  difficult.  It  is  thus 
described  by  Grant  Duff,  vol.  i.  p.  61 : 
— "  Chdkan  is  a  small  fort  18  m.  N.  of 
Pund.  It  is  nearly  square,  with  towers 
at  the  angles  and  centres  of  the  faces* 
It  has  a  good  diteh  about  30  ft.  wide 
and  16  ft.  deep,  but  wet  on  the  N.  side 
only.  The  walls  are  high,  the  parapet 
and  rampart  narrow,  and  the  towers 
confined.  There  is  but  one  entrance 
into  the  body  of  the  place,  through  5 
or  6  gateways;  and  there  is  a  mud 
outwork,  wluch  also  has  a  diteh,  I 
mention  it  particularly,  on  account  of 

*  All  the  adjacent  forts  stirrendered  in  the 
same  easy  way.  In  feet  the  only  one  which 
made  anything  like  a  defence  was  Wasola, 
where  Comets  Hunter  and  Morrison  were 
rescued,  haying  been  confined  for  many  weeks 
in  a  dark  dungeon,  where  they  had  never  be- 
held the  light  of  day* 


Sect.  IL 


Route  4 — Sdswad, 


193 


its  reputed  antiquity ;  for  although  it 
probably  is  the  first  built  by  Maliku't- 
tujjAr,  yet,  according  to  occurring 
Hindii  legends,  it  was  constructed  by 
an  Abyssian  Pdligdr,  inA.D.  1295.  As 
to  how  he  got  there  they  do  not  pre- 
tend to  account."  This  fort  was.  given 
to  Milaji  Bhonsl^,  grandfather  of  Shi- 
vajl,  in  1604,  by  the  Nizam  Shahi, 
King  of  Alt^madnagar.  In  1662  it  sur- 
rendered, after  a  siege  of  2  months, 
in  which  Shdistah  Kh^n,  Aurangzib's 
general,  lost  900  men;  but  it  was 
afterwards  restored  to  SMvaji.  In  1671 
it  was  taken  again  by  Djler  Khdn, 
with  less  difficulty.  In  1818  it  was 
easily  captured  by  the  British.  Over 
the  gates  are  3  inscriptions,  announc- 
ing the  successes  of  the  Mughuls. 
There  are  also  2  guns  inscribed  with 
Mardtha  Inscriptions. 

Sdswad  (Sassoor). — ^As  this  place  is 
only  5  m.  from  Purandar  to  the  N.  by 
E.,  and  as  a  good  road  leads  from  it 
to  Jijtiri,  which  is  only  8J  m.  to  the 
S.E.,  the  traveller  may  like  to  visit 
both  places.  The  road  from  Fund  to 
Saswad  is  lined  with  fine  mango  trees, 
.planted  by  the  Peshw^s.  Sdswad  is  a 
large  market  town  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  Eard  river.  An  old  palace  of  the 
Peshwas  beyond  the  town  and  across 
the  river,  which,  in  the  rainy  season, 
is  difficult  to  cross,  is  used  as  a  Kacheri 
or  collector's  office  and  traveller's 
bangle.  The  rooms  are  good,  but  low 
and  unfurnished,  so  that  it  would  be 
well  to  make  interest  with  the  civil 
officers  of  the  district  and  obtain  re- 
quisite articles,  such  as  a  bed,  table, 
and  chair ;  it  is  also  necessary  to  ask 
permission  to  stay  at  the  palace.  There 
is  fair  quail  shooting  to  be  had  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  this  town ;  but  for 
hog -hunting  the  sportsman  must  go  to 
Pdrgdon  or  to  Kdmg&on,  on  the  road 
from  Pun4  to  Sholdpiir,  in  the  adjoin- 
ing Bhim&tadi  district.  In  an  island  in 
the  river  as  you  cross  to  the  bangla 
are  some  temples  of  black  basalt.  The 
Peshwd's  palace  still  bears  marks  of 
the  English  shot.  At  this  place  the 
Amirs  of  Sindh  were  confined  for  some 
time.  Though  prisoners,  they  wei-e 
permitted  to  amuse  themselves  with 
their  favourite  pursuit,  shooting,  and 

[5om&ay— 1880.] 


the  hogs  in  the  vicinity  were  much 
reduced  in  numbers  by  their  battues. 

•/y wrt.--This  place  is  famous  for  a 
temple  of  a  considerable  size,  and  built 
in  a  picturesque  situation  on  the  sum- 
mit of  a  hill,  about  250  ft.  high.  The 
temple  was  built  by  Holkar,  about  2 
centuries  ago,  and  is  dedicated  to 
Khandobd  or  Ehanderdo,  an  incar- 
nation of  Shiva,  but  dimly  distin- 
guished from  Bhairava,  a  terrific  form 
of  the  above-named  deity.  The  whole 
of  the  ascent  of  the  hill  is  covered 
with  pillars  and  gateways  set  up  by 
various  votaries,  and  there  are  many 
stone  images  of  animals,  which  are 
also  the  record  of  vows.  The  huge 
drum  in  the  Jiakdr  khdnah  or  music 
room,  at  the  top,  is  heard  to  a  great 
distance  round,  and  has  a  remarkable 
effect  when,  breaking  the  stillness  of 
the  night,  it  arrests  the  traveller's  at- 
tention, and  he  beholds  a  huge  mass 
of  pillars  and  buildings  faintly  lit  up 
by  the  moon  or  the  light  of  torches. 
The  revenues  of  the  temple  are  appor- 
tioned thus  :* — the  Government  has 
the  offerings  of  2  months  and  18  days, 
being  the  Saturdays,  Sundays,  and 
Mondays  of  Ashwin ;  the  first  6  days 
of  Mdrgashir^h ;  and  the  whole  of 
Paush  and  Mdgh.  Of  the  remaining 
months,  the  offerings  of  one-half  are 
given  to  certain  Shudras  employed  in 
the  service  of  the  temple,  cialled  Gu- 
ravs;  and  the  other  half  realized  is 
apportioned  equally  between  the  Gar- 
gives  and  Virs^  Tare  and  cJiufe,  Gar- 
lands and  bracelets  are  also  offered  for 
the  Government  throughout  the  year. 
It  is  estimated  that  there  are  from  125 
to  150  girls  attached  to  the  temple, 
who  lead  an  infamous  life.  Of  these 
about  80  are  present  at  the  place,  and  the 
rest  are  scattered  through  the  villages 
within  20  m.  These  girls  are  formsdly 
married  to  the  god,  and  they  and  the 
male  servants  of  the  temple  are  con- 
tinually recruited  in  the  following 
way : — when  a  man  or  woman,  being 
childless,  is  anxious  for  offspring,  such 
a  person  vows  that  if  the  child  be 
granted  it  shall  be  devoted  to  the  god. 
Accordingly,  whether  male  or  female, 

*  "Oriental  Christian  Spectator," for  1837, 
p.  204. 


1D4 


SoiUe  5. — Fund  to  JIahdbaleshwar, 


Sect.  II. 


it  is,  on  its  birth,  made  over  to  tlie 
care  of  the  servants  of  the  temple,  and 
is  brought  up  in  habits  of  shameful 
profligacy.  Among  the  noticeable 
things  at  this  shrine  is  a  long  pole 
covered  with  red  and  blue  cloth,  and 
liaving  a  crown  of  peacock's  feathers 
at  the  end;  this  is  carried  round  on 
pilgrimage  to  other  shrines,  and  is,  as 
it  were,  the  banner  of  Xhandobd. 

Carriages  and  horses  are  obtainable 
at  PunA  of  Mr.  Framji  Ardaslr,  whose 
office  is  at  No.  28,  Civil  Lines,  Band 
Gardens  Road.  His  office  at  Mahdba- 
leshwar  is  opposite  the  Post  Office  ; 
and  at  Sdtdr^  Eolh&pur,  and  Belgdon 
his  offices  are  similarly  situated. 

TaJ)le  of  Mates,  inchtding  Tolls,  Kulis  and 
Ferries. 


From 

To 

a 

1  Tonga. 

III- 

1 

.2 

ingle 
Mail 

I 

en 

r.  a. 

02 

r.  a. 

s- 

r.    a. 

©^^5^ 

Pima. 

Mahdbalesh- 

2|'g'< 

war.    .    . 

47    0 

30  0 

10  0 

Phae 
cial 
b   in 
b. 

n 

S&tixi.     .    . 

47    0 

26  0 

10  0 

*y 

Kolh4p\\r    . 

104  12 

52  8' 20  0 

t^oS- 

ft 

Belgdon  .    . 

156  12 

78  8;30  0 

>» 

A^madna- 

gar  .    .    . 

52    8 

35  0 

10  0 

-,«"  tj 

Satdrd 

Mah&balesh- 

Hoc* 

war.    .    . 

26    0 

15  s;  7  0     »g" 

25  0  10  0     !?  * 

PiinA. 

Panchganni. 

42    0 

If  orders  are  cancelled  or  convey- 
ances not  taken  on  the  dates  fixed,  the 
parties  will  forfeit  half  fare.  The 
charge  per  mile  for  intermediate  sta- 
tions is,  for  a  seat  in  the  Mail  Tonga, 
2^  dnds,  and  for  a  special  tonga  8 
dnds,  and  for  a  phaeton  12  dnds.  The 
same,  or  but  little  more,  will  be 
charged  for  going  to  Sinhgarh,  or  to 
any  place  off  the  main  road.  The 
traveller  will  be  very  careful  to  re- 
member that  tolls  and  ferries  are  paid 
for  before  starting  in  the  lump  sum, 
as  attempts  are  often  made  by  the 
drivers  to  get  the  traveller  to  pay 
them,  under  pretence  of  not  having 
money  with  him.  The  phaetons  are 
far  more  comfoi*table  than  the  tongas, 
and  can  take  more  luggfige,  but  do  not 
go  so  fast. 


ROUTE  5. 

PUNA  TO  MAHABALESHWAB. 

The  stages  are  as  follows  : — 


1.  Puna  to  Kakrej 

2.  Kakrej  to  8indewa4i      .... 

3.  Sindewii4i  to  Wadwa  .... 

4.  WadwA  to  KafurwJl        .        .        .    . 

5.  Kafurwi  to  Shlrwal 

(The  T.  B.  at  SWrwal  is  on  the  left 

about  80  yds.  off  the  road.  It  is 
prettily  situated  near  the  Niiu 
river.) 

6.  Shirwal  to  Khandala     .        .        .    . 

7.  KhandalA  to  Kamdkshi 

8.  Kamakshi  to  Sirol         .        .        .    . 

9.  Sirol  to  Wii 

(T.  B.  at  W41,  close  to  the  river.) 

10.  Wdi  to  Panchganni        .... 
(T.  B.  at  Panchganni,  300  yds.  to  the 

left  of  road.) 

11.  Panchganni  to  the  Hotel  at  Mahd- 

baleshwar 


Miles 

I 

6 
6 
6 
6 


6 
6 
6 
6 

10 


12 


Total    .    .    77 

Kakrej  Ghat  is  3  m.  long,  with  a 
steep  pitch  on  the  left,  from  falling 
down  which  carriages  are  protected 
by  a  good  wall  3  ft.  high.  There  is  a 
police  station  at  the  top  of  this  Grhdt, 
not  far  from  which  you  enter  a  tunnel 
825  ft.  long.  There  is  a  toll  at  Ka- 
makshi of  4  dnds.  The  Ghdt  is  long, 
steep,  and  rocky,  with  a  precipice  on 
the  right.  Shirwal  village  formerly  be- 
longed to  the  Pant  Sacheo,  a  Mar^tha 
chief  of  high  rank.  The  55th  mile- 
stone is  close  to  Wdl,  and  the  ascent 
of  the  Ghat  commences  just  beyond 
this  milestone,  and  extends  about  8  m. 
Wdi  (Wye),  pop.  11,062.— This  is  one 
of  the  most  beautiful  rustic  towns  in 
the  Dakhan.  Lady  Falkland  says  of  it, 
with  justice :  *  "I  know  nowhere  a 
more  lovely  spot  than  Wdl,  and,  al- 
though 1  often  visited  it  during  my 
stay  in  India,  I  saw  new  beauties 
every  time.  Here  there  is  grand 
scenery,  as  well  as  pleasing,  quiet 
spots,  and  charming  bits.  The  view 
from  the  traveller's  bangli  is  per- 
fectly beautiful.  Behind  the  city  rise 
hills  of  all  the  shapes  which  are  pecu- 
liar to  the  mountains  in  the  Dakhan. 

*  "  Chow-Cbow,"  vol.  i.  p.  188. 


Sect.  II.     EoiUe  5. — Wdl — Bovi — Banyan-tree  of  Wair&tgarh,     195 


There  are  round,  peaked,  flat-topped 
hills  ;  some  cover»l  with  rocks,  look- 
ing, at  a  distance,  like  forts  and 
castles.  One  hill,  near  the  city,  rises 
very  abruptly,  and  has  a  hill-fort  on 
the  top.  ItiscaUedPdndugarh."  WAl 
is  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Kp^hnd,  which  is  lined  with  beautiful 
pippai  and  mango  trees,  and  withhand- 
some  flights  of  stone  steps,  ornamented 
with  graceful  figures  of  lovely  Brdhman 
women,  for  which  this  place  is  re- 
nowned. The  traveller's  bangld  is  on 
the  side  nearest  to  the  Mahdbaleshwar 
Hills.  The  neai-est  temple  to  it,  and  the 
river  is  lined  with  beautiful  temples, 
is  dedicated  to  Ganpati ;  the  next  to 
Mahadeo ;  and  one  at  some  distance,  to 
Lak^hmi.  These  were  built  about  80 
years  ago,  by  the  father  of  B^U  ^dhib 
Bastia,  of  whom  Lady  Falkland 
speaks.'*'  They  are  exceedingly  ele- 
gant, and  form  the  great  beauty  of 
this  most  picturesque  spot.  The  man- 
dap  or  canopy  in  front  of  MahMeo's 
temple  is  very  light,  and  a  fine  speci- 
men of  carving  in  stone.  The  roof,  as 
also  that  of  Ganpati's  temple,  is  like  a 
pavement  reversed.  Stones  cut  into 
three  cubes  are  joined  at  the  comers, 
and  are  then  so  locked  that  each  locks 
into  six  others.  When  the  roof  is 
finished,  the  support,  which  is  gene- 
rally of  earth,  is  dug  out  from  the 
inside  of  the  temple,  and  from  below 
only  the  flat  under-surface  of  the 
lowest  cube  is  seen.  The  fortune  of 
the  Rdstias  was  much  impaired  by  the 
expenses  incurred  in  erecting  these 
temples,  and  by  their  munificence  to 
the  Brdhmans.  To  avoid  the  imputa- 
tion of  abandoning  a  generosity  which 
they  are  no  longer  able  to  sustain, 
they  have  discontinued  their  custom 
of  visiting  Wai,  except  at  very  gi-eat 
intervals.  They  have  an  excellent 
mansion  at  no  gi*eat  distance  from  the 
town,  called  the  Moti  BAgh,  or  "  Pearl 
garden."  The  road  thither  is  beauti- 
fully shaded  by  splendid  bambiis, 
mangos,  and  tamarinds.  The  house 
was  built  nearly  a  century  ago,  and  is 
a  good  specimen  of  the  Muhammadan 
style.     It  is  open  on  one  side  from 

*  "Chow-chow," p.  200. 


top  to  bottom,  and  shaded  by  huge 
curtains.  The  decorations  are  still 
fresh,  but  one  of  the  mirrors  has  been 
broken  by  a  monkey  which  got  in, 
"  and  imagined  he  beheld  an  opponent 
in  the  reflection  of  himself."  In  the 
garden  are  fountains  with  curious 
primitive  works,  which  are  now  sel- 
dom used.  Bdl4  Sdhib  commanded 
the  PeshwA's  horse  at  the  siege  of 
Shrirangpatnam  (Seringapatam).  At 
WAi  is  also  the  villa  of  the  widow 
of  NAnA  Famavls.  Lady  Falkland  * 
describes  her  as  very  old,  but  pos- 
sessing the  traces  of  great  beauty. 
When  Lord  Valentia  saw  her  in  1804, 
at  Panwell,  she  was  "  a  very  pretty 
girl-— fair,  round-faced,  with  beautiful 
eyes,  and  apparently  seventeen  years 
of  age."  t  She  possessed  a  portrait  of 
MahMeo  RAo  PeshwA,  and  of  his 
famous  minister  NAnA  Famavls,  and 
several  letters  from  the  Duke  of 
Wellington,  who,  in  1804,  obtained 
for  her  leave  to  settle  where  she  chose 
in  the  PeshwA's  dominions,  with  an 
annual  pension  of  14,000  rupees.  A 
life  of  NAnA,  written  by  himself,  and 
fuU  of  extraordinary  incidents,  was, 
at  the  request  of  Colonel  Lodwick, 
given  by  this  lady  to  an  official  at 
iSAtArA,  and  passed  into  the  hands  of 
the  late  General  Briggs. 

DortK — About  5  m.  from  WAI  is  the 
village  of  Dom,  where  is  a  very  hand- 
some temple,  in  the  middle  of  the 
court  of  which  is  a  gigantic  basin  of 
white  marble,  the  edges  carved  with 
lotus  leaves.  There  is  also  a  pillar 
about  5  ft.  high,  on  the  top  of  which 
are  the  five  heads  of  Shiva,  with 
cobras  twisting  round  them,  all  in 
white  marble. 

The  Banyan-tree  of  Wairdtgarh.-^ 
But  the  most  curious  thing  to  be  seen 
near  WAi  is  a  gigantic  tree,  at  the  foot 
of  a  mountain  called  WairAtgayh, 
about  8  m.  from  WAi.  The  exact  area 
shaded  by  it  is  three-quarters  of  an 
acre.  The  space  covered. is  a  very 
symmetrical  oval.  There  is  no  brash- 
wood  underneath,  nor  aught  to  im- 
pede the  view  save  the  stems  of  the 
shoots  from  the  parent  tree.    Lady 

*  Vol.  i.,  p.  203. 

t  "Voyages  and  Travels,"  p.  173. 

o  2 


196 


jRoute  5. — Fund  to  Mahdhcdeshwar. 


Sect.  II. 


Falkland  says,  "  The  shade  was  so  com- 
plete, I  could  sit  in  the  middle  of  the 
day  without  any  covering  on  my  head. 
The  tree  was  of  such  a  size,  that  sepa- 
rate picnic  parties  might  take  place 
under  it,  and  not  interfere  with  each 
other.  There  were  countless  arenues 
or  rather  aisles,  like  those  of  a  church, 
the  pale  grey  stiems  being  the  columns, 
which,  as  the  sun  fell  on  them,  glis- 
tened in  parts  like  silver ;  and  here 
and  there  were  little  recesses  like 
chapels,  where  the  roots  from  the 
boughs  formed  themselves  into  delicate 
clustering  pillars,  up  and  down  which 
little  squirrels  were  chasing  each 
other,  while  large  monkeys  were 
jumping  from  bough  to  bough,  the 
branches  cracking  and  creaking  as  if 
both  they  and  the  monkeys  would  fall 
on  my  head."  Wdi  is  a  spot  much 
famed  in  Hindd  legend.  Here,  ac- 
cording to  old  tradition,  the  Fundus 
spent  part  of  their  banishment,  and 
performed  many  wonderful  works. 
On  this  account,  as  because  of  its 
proximity  to  the  Kji^nA  river  so 
near  its  source,  W4i  is  viewed  as  a 
place  of  great  sanctity  ;  and  there  is  a 
college  of  Brdhmans  established  at  it, 
once  in  much  repute. 

PaTUihganniis  a  very  large  village 
with  many  bangUs  belonging  to  Euro- 
pean genUemen,  with  nice  plantations 
about  them.  In  fact,  many  gentlemen 
who  come  to  Mah^baleshwarf or  thehot 
weather  prefer  to  stop  at  Pdnchganni, 
where  the  view  is  very  beautiful.  The 
Ghdt  from  it  to  Fund  descends  at  a 
moderate  gradient,  but  has  a  precipice 
on  the  left  as  you  go  to  Bombay.  The 
worst  places,  however,  are  protected  by 
a  wall  2  ft.  6  high,  which,  it  is  said, 
has  saved  more  than  one  carriage 
from  going  over.  People  are  fond  of 
joking  about  descending  this  road  at 
night  at  the  rate  of  10  m.  an  hour, 
while  the  stertorous  breathing  of  the 
coachman  warns  you  that  he  is  fast 
asleep;  the  Ghdktt  however,  is  much 
less  dangerous  than  that  at  Simla. 
From  P^nchganni  the  road  descends  a 
little  for  I  of  a  m.  ;  the  country  round 
is  covered  with  low  jungle,  with 
patches  of  cultivation.  About  1  m. 
from  Mahdbaleshwar  village  the  lake 


made  by  the  Bdj&  of  Sdtard  is  passed 
on  the  right.  It  winds  in  a  pic- 
turesque way,  and  is  about  810  yds. 
long  from  N.E.  to  S.W.,  and  not  quite 
200  yds.  broad  at  broadest  There  is 
a  Sanatorium  at  Mahdbaleshwar  with 
8  set«  of  quarters.  Booms  for  one 
person  are  charged  at  the  rate  of 
Bs.  40  per  month. 

Hotels. — The  nearest  hotel  to  a 
traveller  coming  from  Sdt&r^  is 
called  Langholm  Lodge  and  Lang- 
holm House,  or  the  Mahdbaleshwar 
Hotel,  kept  by  Mr.  Doriibjl  Soribji. 
The  Fountain  Hall  Hotel,  kept  by  Mr. 
C.  Kddsji  (Cowasjee),  is  400  yds.  to 
the  S.W.  of  Mahdbaleshwar  Hotel, 
and  is  better  situated,  having  a  most 
beautiful  view  to  the  S.  to  Sassoon 
Point,  and  as  far  as  Babington  Point 
and  Makrangarh.  The  proprietor  of 
this  hotel  deserves  strong  recommen- 
dation for  his  extreme  civility  and 
attention.  The  charges  are  as  fol- 
lows : —  B.  A. 
Boaxd  and  lodging  for  a  lady  or  gentle- 
man. Meals  at  the  Table  d'hdte  at  a 
fixed  hour,  per  diem  .  .  .  .60 
At  separate  table,  extra  charge  per  diem  1  0 
Children  above  18  months  and  under  5 

years 18 

Above  5  years  and  under  12  .  .  .28 
Guests  invited  by  i)ersons  living  at  the 

hotel,  dinner 1  12 

Bed  for  ditto 18 

Breakfast  or  tiffin 10 

European  or  East  Indian  sen'ants,  male 
or  female,  i^er  diem  .       .        .18 

Accounts  are  settled  weekly.  When 
carriages  are  required,  notice  should 
be  given  the  day  previous.  Lodgers 
are  requested  to  lock  their  rooms  on 
going  out;  and  the  proprietor  will  not 
be  responsible  for  anything  missing 
unless  given  into  his  charge.  The  tra- 
veller will  remember  that  vegetables, 
particularly  potatoes,  are  remarkably 
good  at  Mahdbaleshwar.  He  will  also 
ask  for  strawberries,  which  are  sold  at 
from  8  to  12  dozen  for  the  rupee. 
The  village  of  Mahdbaleshwar  is  3  m. 
to  the  N.  of  Malcolm  Peth,  which  is  the 
centre  of  the  European  quarter,  and 
the  principal  station  on  the  hills.  It 
was  called  Malcolm  Peth  by  the 
Bij^  of  S&tdr^  in  honour  of  Sir  John 
Malcolm,  who  resided  much  on  these 
hills   when    Governor.     These   hills 


Sect.  II. 


Houte  5. — Hotels, 


197 


are  in  N.  lat.  17°  56',  E.  long.  73''  30'. 
The  extreme  length  to  which  the  hills 
extend  from  N.E.  to  S.W.  is  17  m., 
but  only  5  m.  [from  N.  to  S.  At  the 
N.  end  they  are  15  m.  broad,  and  at 
the  S.  end  8.  The  general  elevation 
is  4500  ft.  above  the  sea,  but  the 
Sindola  ridge  is  4700  ft.,  and  2300 
above  the  general  level  of  the  Dakhan 
plateau.  The  hills  are  only  25  m. 
due  E.  from  the  sea,  but  125  m.  from 
Bombay,  which  bears  N.  29*  W.  The 
principal  roads  communicating  with 
the  low  country  are,  1st,  that  from 
PunA,  which  has  been  already  de- 
scribed, and,  2nd,  that  from  S4tdr^, 
which  will  be  described  in  Route  17, 
and  also  that  to  NAgotna  and  Mhdr, 
which  ascends  the  W.  part  of  the 
hills.  From  Bombay  to  Ndgotna, 
which  is  on  the  Ambar  River,  in  the 
Koldba  CoUectorate,  is  40  m.,  and  from 
Ndgotna  to  the  hills  is  76  m.  From 
Bombay  to  Bankot  by  sea  is  70  m.,  and 
from  Bankot  to  Mhdr  up  the  Sdvitri 
river  is  30  m. ;  from  Mh&r  to  the  hills 
is  35  m.  Both  these  routes  are  hot  and 
feverish,  and  are  now  little  used.  No 
further  allusion  will  therefore  be 
•  made  to  them.  A  large  part  of  the 
surface  on  the  hills  is  indurated  iron- 
clay  or  laterite,  which  overlies  basalt 
and  other  members  of  the  secondary 
trap-formation.  The  Pterh  aquilina^ 
or  common  brake,  grows  very  plenti- 
fully on  the  hills,  as  do  the  willow, 
the  Eugenm  Jamhos  and  Gardenia 
montana.  There  are  a  few  oaks.  The 
Tetranthera  and  Cortilania  flower  in 
November,  also  the  Anjunl,  or  iron-» 
wood,  which  has  purple  flowers. 
There  are  30  species  of  ferns,  of 
which  the  principal  are  the  Acrosti' 
cJimn  atirenm,  the  Actiniopteris  ra- 
diata,  the  Adiantum,  Umdatum^  the 
Aitpidium  cochleatnm,  the  A^lenium 
ereetum  and  falcatvm^  the  Pteins 
lucida  and  qvadrianrita.  The  geo- 
graphical position  of  this  range  secures 
to  it  a  redundant  supply  of  moisture 
during  the  S.W.  monsoon,and  has  ren- 
dered it  a  fruitful  parent  of  rivers 
that  fertilize  the  Dakhan.  To  the  site 
of  the  temple  of  Mahddeo  at  Mahdba- 
leshwar  village  mentioned  above, 
Br^hmans  assign  the  honour  of  giving 


birth  to  the  KyishnA  (here  spoken  of 
as  female),  the  EoinA,  which  falls 
into  the  Kp^nA  at  Eardd,  the  Ten  A 
and  SAwitri  and  GAwitri,  which, 
falling  down  the  W.  face  of  the  Ghdt, 
unite  with  other  neighbouring  streams 
to  form  the  river  at  the  mouth  of 
which  stands  Bankot  or  Fort  Victoria. 
The  YenA  falls  into  the  Ep^nd  at 
MAholi  Sangam,  about  4  m.  to  the  £. 
of  SAtArA. 

The  real  sources  and  feeders  of  these 
rivers  are  of  course  to  be  sought  in  the 
numerous  ravines  and  rocky  dells 
that  intersect  the  table-land  of  the 
hills  in  various  directions,  and  in  most 
of  which  are  found  at  all  seasons 
streamlets  of  the  purest  water,  pur- 
suing their  devious  ways  through 
huge  rugged  blocks  that  obstruct  the 
passage.  Thus  a  supply  of  excellent 
water  is  everywhere  procurable,  though 
none  meets  the  eye  in  the  landscape 
but  that  of  the  lake  and  of  the  Yend, 
which,  in  its  gentle  winding  course 
towards  its  final  fall  into  the  Dakhan, 
forms  many  picturesque  little  cascades 
and  pools,  skirted  by  their  native 
willows.  The  annual  mean  tempera- 
ture of  Malcohn  Peth  is  65**  Fah.  For 
9  months,  from  June  to  February  in- 
clusive, so  equable  is  the  climate,  that 
the  mean  heat  of  any  month  does  not 
differ  4°,  and  for  more  than  half  the 
time  not  2°  from  the  annual  mean ; 
whilst  the  mean  of  the  hottest  month 
only  exceeds  it  by  7^°.  The  average 
daily  range  of  the  thermometer  in  the 
open  air  throughout  the  year  is  only 
8°,  and  in  a  house  but  4°  or  6°.  The 
season  for  visiting  the  hills  commences 
in  the  beginning  of  October,  the  time 
at  which  the  transition  from  the  low 
country  can  be  made  with  the  greatest 
advantage.  The  atmosphere  is  then 
still  very  moist,  but,  in  general,  clear 
and  fair  during  the  day,  with  gentle 
showers  in  the  evening.  By  these  and 
the  prevailing  light  E.  winds,  the  air 
is  delightfully  cooled,  the  mean  tem- 
perature ranging  below  66°,  with  a 
daily  variation  of  only  7°  in  the  open 
air  ;  yet  the  difference  of  temperature 
which  the  new  comer  experiences 
between  the  hills  and  low  country, 
though  equal  to  20*  at  noonday,   is 


198 


Eoiite  5, — Fund  to  Mahdbaleshwar. 


Sect.  11. 


even  less  striking  than  the  change 
from  the  sultry  closeness  below  to  the 
invigorating  freshness  of  the  mountain 
air.  November  brings  a  drier  and 
colder  climate,  a  more  uniformly 
clear  sky,  and  stronger  E.  winds,  and 
the  cold  season  extends  from  the 
middle  of  this  month  to  the  end  of 
February.  During  this  period  the 
weather  is  almost  always  clear, 
serene  and  fair,  with  gentle  winds, 
chiefly  from  the  E. ;  but,  as  the  sea- 
son advances,  increasingly  from  the 
"W.  and  N.W.,  constituting  a  faint  sea 
breeze.  The  mean  temperature  aver- 
ages 62  4°,  and  the  greatest  cold  in  the 
open  air  is  about  45^  Throughout 
the  day  the  temperature  is  mild  and 
genial,  with  somewhat  of  an  autiminal 
sharpness  in  the  nights  and  mornings. 
Hoar  frost  may  occasionally  be  seen 
in  situations  favourable  to  its  produc- 
tion. But  the  stillness  of  the  weather, 
and  the  nights  especially,  of  this  sea- 
son is  very  favourable  to  the  preserva- 
tion of  a  comfortable  temperature  with- 
in doors,  even  without  fires,  the  ther- 
mometer so  placed  ranging  between 
58°  and  66°.  A  fire-place  will  always 
be  found,  however,  a  desirable  ad- 
junct to  houses  at  the  hills.  The 
warm  season  commences  with  March, 
and  lasts  till  the  beginning  of  June. 
Its  mean  temperature  may  be  taken 
at  71°,  with  a  daily  range  of  9°.  The 
mean  of  the  hottest  month  is  less  than 
73°,  and  at  the  hottest  time  of  day 
but  76°.  Any  transient  feeling  of 
heat  is  soon  relieved  by  the  strong  sea 
breeze,  which  now  sets  in  daily,  and 
blows  fresh,  cool,  and  moist,  from  the 
N.W.,  increasing  in  strength  with  the 
heat  of  the  season.  From  the  end  of 
April  squalls  and  thunder-storms  are 
not  unusual ;  and  in  May  the  atmos- 
phere becomes  moist er,  and  clouds 
and  mist  hang  over  the  hills  in  the 
nights  and  mornings.  In  the  beginning 
of  June  the  monsoon  sets  steadily  in, 
and  to  this  period  visitors  may  in 
general  prolong  their  stay.  While 
the  S.W.  monsoon  prevails,  fog  and 
heavy  rain  envelope  this  exposed  face 
of  the  mountains ;  but  to  the  E.  the 
table-land  enjoys  a  less  trying  climate. 
The  winds  arc  high  and  stormy  in  the 


early  part  of  the  season,  but  gradu- 
ally almte  as  the  rains  cease  ;  and  in 
September  the  sky  begins  to  clear, 
and  calms  and  variable  winds,  with 
passing  showers,  usher  in  again  the 
desirable  weather  of  October.  The 
range  of  the  thermometer  during  the 
rains  does  not  exceed  2  J°  in  the  open 
air,  day  and  night ;  and  the  mean 
temperature  is  about  63^°.  The  total 
fall  of  rain  is  from  200  to  220  in. 
The  elevation  and  geographical  posi- 
tion of  this  table-land,  which  bestow 
on  it  so  delightful  a  climate,  place  it 
also  beyond  the  sphere  of  malaria. 
The  station,  accordingly,  is  entirely 
free  from  endemical  disease,  even 
during  the  excessive  and  continued 
moisture  of  the  rainy  season,  nor  are 
fevers  known  on  its  cessation,  or  at 
any  other  period.  No  case  of  cholera 
has  ever  occurred. 

The  discoverer  and  first  visitor  of 
the  Mah4baleshwar  Hills,  for  change 
of  climate,  was  the  late  General  P. 
Lodwick,  who,  being  stationed  with 
his  regiment  at  S4tdr4  during  the  hot 
season  of  1824,  determined  on  ex- 
ploring these  mountains.  He  was  the 
very  first  European  who  ever  set  foot 
on  the  since  celebrated  promontory  of 
Sydney  Point,  which  has  now  been 
officially  called  after  him.  He  made 
his  way,  with  a  walking-stick  in  his 
hand,  through  the  dense  and  tigerish 
jungle,  to  the  edge  of  that  gi-and  pre- 
cipice, without  any  encounter  with 
the  wild  beasts  that  then  infested 
the  place  in  numbers ;  but  a  day  or 
two  after  his  dog,  when  close  to  him, 
was  carried  ofE  by  a  panther.  To  him 
also  belongs  the  merit  of  first  bringing 
the  subject  before  the  public  through 
the  medium  of  the  newspapers.  He 
was  followed  by  the  late  General 
Briggs,  Besident  of  SAtdrd,  who  in 
1826  built  a  cottage,  and  prevailed  on 
the  BdjA  to  construct  an  excellent 
caniage-road  from  his  capital  to  the 
present  station.  Little  further  was 
done,  till  Sir  J.  Malcolm,  Governor  of 
Bombay,  zealously  took  up  the  matter, 
established  an  experimental  conva- 
lescent hospital  for  European  soldiers, 
and  by  his  personal  residence  at  the 
Hills  in  the  hot  season  of  X828,  at- 


Sect.  II. 


Houte  5. — Malcolm  Feth. 


199 


tracted  a  crowd  of  visitors.  In  the 
same  season,  Colonel  Robertson,  the 
successor  of  Colonel  Briggs,  built  a 
house  at  the  station.  In  November, 
1828,  Sir  J.  Malcolm  returned  to  the 
Hills,  bringing  with  him  Dr.  William- 
son, specially  appointed  to  the  duty  of 
reportiug  on  the  climate,  and  the  fit- 
ness of  the  locality  for  a  sanatorium, 
who  died  not  long  afterwards.  Sites 
were  now  selected  for  some  public 
buildings;  the  Governor's  residence 
on  Mount  Charlotte,  called  after 
Lady  Malcolm,  was  commenced  ;  and 
a  proclamation  was  soon  afterwards 
issued  by  the  Rdjd  of  SAtdrd,  inviting 
settlers  to  his  newly-founded  village 
of  Malcolm  Peth,  or  "  Malcolm-ville." 
His  Highness  also  uudertook  to  con- 
tinue the  high  road  onward  over  the 
hill  and  down  the  Rartondya  *  or  Ro- 
tunda Ghat  to  the  boundaiy  of  the 
British  territory  in  the  Konkan,  from 
which  point  the  Eoglish  Government 
agreed  to  construct  a  similar  road 
down  the  P6r  f  GhAt,  through  Mahir 
to  Disgdoii, '  the  most  convenient 
harbour  on  the  Bankot  river.  These 
works  were  completed  in  1830.  Next 
season  Pdrsl  shopkeepers  made  their 
appearance,  and  Government  em- 
ployed a  number  of  Chinese  convicts 
in  cultivating  an  extensive  garden, 
whence  supplies  of  the  finest  vegeta- 
bles, especially  potatoes,  were  speedily 
drawn.  The  convicts,  about  12  in 
number,  came  from  the  English  settle- 
ments to  the  E.,  and  after  working 
out  their  time  in  chains,  remained  at 
the  place,  married  and  improved  their 
condition,  with  the  proverbial  fru- 
gality and  industry  of  their  race.  A 
public  subscription  was  now  raised  to 
make  bridle  roads  to  the  most  pic- 
turesque points,  and  in  a  few  years 
the  station  reaiched  the  flourishing 
condition  in  which  it  now  is. 

The  old  road  from  Wdl,  now  disused, 
after surmountingthe Tai  Ghdt, enters 

*  The  orthography  of  this  word  is  uncer- 
tain. It  may,  perhaps,  be  an  English  word, 
but  no  dependence  whatever  can  be  placed  on 
Anglican  spelling  of  Indian  words.  If  a  Ma- 
rAt-ha  word,  it  may  be  used  with  reference  to 
the  steepness  of  the  ascent,  as  we  might  say  in 
English,  "Whimper  hill." 

t  /*«?•  signifies  "limit;"  jilsp  " beyond," 


a  valley  formed  by  heights  of  very 
varied  form,  among  which  the  most 
remarkable  are  the  striking*  crowned 
summit  of  Mount  Olympia  on  the 
right  hand,  and  the  bold  rocky  pro- 
montory of  Kate's  Point,  with  its 
natural  tunnel,  on  the  left.  Both 
these  heights  are  named  from  Sir  J. 
Malcolm's  daughters.  Kate's  Point 
commands  a  magnificent  view  of  the 
valley  of  Wdl,  and  is  about  8  miles 
from  Malcolm  Peth.  The  traveller 
now  comes  to  a  high  ridge,  and  cross- 
ing that,  enters  a  hollow,  the  scenery 
of  which  is  very  attractive.  The  road 
passes  for  some  distance  by  the  side 
of  the  YenA,  and,  crossing  that  river, 
enters  Amelia  Vale,  called  from 
another  daughter  of  Sir  J.  Malcolm. 
The  Falls  of  the  YenA  are  situate  in 
the  valley  of  that  name  on  the  left  of 
the  road  from  the  Tdi  Gh^t,  and  are 
reached  by  a  by-path  from  a  point  on 
the  SdtArdi  road  into  the  station.  The 
stream  is  here  precipitated  over  the 
face  of  a  steep  cliff  with  a  sheer 
descent  of  500  ft.,  unbroken  when 
the  torrent  is  swollen  by  rain,  but  or- 
dinarily divided  by  projecting  rocks 
about  one-third  of  the  way  down,  and 
scattered  below  into  thin  white  streaks 
and  spray,  which  are  often  circled  by 
rainbows  from  the  oblique  rays  of  the 
sun.  The  headlong  rush  and  roar  of 
the  falling  river ;  the  many  other 
streams  lining  with  silver  the  steep 
dark  sides  ef  the  chasm,  as  they 
hasten  to  join  the  foaming  torrent, 
which  far  below  is  dashing  on  through 
masses  of  rock ;  the  grandeur  of  the 
sceneiy,  now  wreathed  in  floating 
mists,  now  bright  in  sunshine— com- 
bine to  form  a  scene  of  the  most  ab- 
sorbing beauty.  From  this  point  the 
road  winds  along  the  top  of  the  cliff, 
crosses  the  river  (now  flowing  through 
overhanging  woods  and  rocks)  above 
the  waterfall,  ascends  to  a  sweetly- 
situated  village  on  the  opposite  bank, 
where  the  dog-rose  is  found  growing 
wild,  and  enters  a  closely-wooded 
avenue,  skirted  by  a  most  picturesque 
forest  dingle.  Thence  it  opens  on 
smooth  green  meadows,  and  luxuriant 
willows,  through  which  the  YenA  is 
again  seen  sluggishly  winding.    Thg 


205 


; 


Rotite  5. — Fund  to  MahdbaletJiwar, 


Sect.  II, 


first  expedition  the  traveller  should 
make  will  be  to  Elphinstone  Point  and 
Arthur's  Seat,  as  being  almost  the 
longest  and  certainly  the  most  in- 
teresting. On  the  right  of  the  road, 
and  on  the  way  to  Elphinstone  Point, 
is  the  ancient  village  of  Mah^balesh- 
war.  It  is  a  small  place,  but  of 
great  sanctity  in  the  eyes  of  the 
Hindi^,  as  being  the  spot  where  the 
Kp9hn&  and  four  other  rivers  have 
their  source.  There  are  several  tem- 
ples, one  very  old,  of  black  stone,  said 
to  have  been  built  by  a  Gauli  B^j^.* 
Another  built  by  the  same  chief,  and 
called  Koteshwar,  commands  a  grand 
view  over  the  W4I  valley.  The  prin- 
cipal temple,  however,  is  called  Mah4- 
baleshwar.  This  stands  close  under  a 
hill,  where  there  is  the  stone  image  of 
a  cow,  from  whose  mouth  the  five 
rivers  are  said  to  spring.  These  rivers 
fill  a  tank,  round  which  is  a  raised 
walk,  and  near  it  are  several  recesses, 
where  various  saints,  famous  in  Hindii 
legends,  are  supposed  to  have  their 
retreat.  No  European  is  allowed  to 
enter  this  holy  place.  At  the  temple 
they  show  a  bed,  which  the  priests 
assert  is  visited  by  the  god  Kfii^hna 
every  night.  At  a  certain  hour  they 
ring  a  bell,  and  then  the  deity,  though 
invisible  to  mortal  eye,  enters  the  bed 
and  rests  till  morning.  The  wretched 
garniture  and  stifling  atmosphere  of 
the  room,  however,]  dispel  all  classic 
recollections,  and  prevent  any  com- 
parisons with  the  superstitions  of  old 
Babylon  recorded  by  Herodotus.  The 
Hindii  legend  about  the  place  is  re- 
lated by  Lady  Falkland,f  and  is 
simply  that  two  demons,  named  Ante- 
ball  and  Mahdbali,  were  destroyed 
here  by  Mah^eo,  and  the  younger, 
Mah&baU,  obtained,  as  his  dying  re- 
quest, that  rivers  should  spring  from 
the  bodies  of  the  slain.  Tliree  of 
these  temples  were  rebuilt  about  a 
century  ago,  by  ParshurAm  NArdyan 
Angal,  a  wealthy  banker  of  Sdtdrd. 
The  sixth  temple,  called  Kudreshwar, 

*  The  Gaulis  are  herdsmen,  and  are  thought 
by  some  to  be  an  aboriginal  race.  An  account 
of  them  will  be  found  in  Lady  Falkland's 
"  Chow-chow,"  vol  1.  p.  164. 

t  "  Chow-Chow,"  vol,  i.  p.  169. 


was  built  about  75  years  ago  by 
AhalyA  BAi,  Bdni  of  Indiir. 

Elplmistone  Point  is  the  grandest 
of  all  the  precipitous  scarps  which 
front  the  low  country,    This  is  about 

2  m.  as  the  crow  flies,  but  4  by  the 
road,  to  the  E.  of  Mahdbaleshwar 
Temple.  There  is  a  sheer  descent  of 
above  2000  ft.,  though  not  so  steep  at 
the  summit  but  that  wild  bison  have 
been  seen  to  gallop  down  some  part. 
A  rock  rolled  from  the  top  thunders 
down  and  crashes  into  the  forests 
below  with  a  noise  and  commotion 
which  is  really  grand  to  witness,  and 
it  is  a  common  amusement  of  visitors 
to  throw  over  huge  masses.  The  view 
extends  to  the  mountains,  among 
which  is  the  hill-fort  of  Toma,  over 
an  apparently  uninhabited  jungle.  To 
the  right  of  the  Point  is  "Arthur's 
Seat,"  ahother  fine  view  which  must 
by  no  means  be  omitted.  It  has  its 
name  from  Mr.  Arthur  Malet,  C.S., 
who  first  built  a  house  here.  The 
distance  from  Malcolm  Peth  is  about 
10  miles. 

The  next  expedition  will  be  to 
Lodwick  Point,  visiting,  en  route, 
the  village  of  Malcolm  Peth,  the 
Library,  the  Church,  •  Sir  Sydney 
Beckwith's  Monument,  and  the  Ceme- 
tery. 

Malcolm  Pefh. — The  pop.  of  MahA- 
baleshwar  is  put  down  at  2759  persons, 
and  the  gross  municipal  income  is 
Bs.  15,226,  the  expenditure  being 
about  Bs.  120  more  than  the  income. 
The  taxation  per  head  being  Bs.  5 
8  dn&s  3  p.  (See  "  Census'of  Bombay 
Presidency  "  of  1872,  p.  284).  There 
are  some  tolerable  shops.  The  village 
and  adjoining  land,  to  the  extent  of 

3  sq.  m.  10  furlongs,  was  ceded  by 
the  Bdj&  of  Sdtdrd  on  the  16th  of  May, 
1827,  and  the  village  was  founded 
in  1828.  It  lies  E.  of  the  Foun- 
tain Hotel,  and  the  Library  is  to  the 
E.  by  N.,  with  the  mail-contractor's 
stables  to  the  E.  of  that  again.  The 
Church  and  the  Beckwith  Monument 
are  100  yds.  to  the  N.  There  is  a  good 
reading-room  at  the  Library,  the  sub- 
scription to  which  is  Bs.  5  per  month. 
In  the  Library  is  a  copy  of  the  "  Ma- 
h^baleshwar    Guide,"   with    a    map 


Sect.  II. 


Route  5. — Malcolm  Peth. 


201 


printed  at  the  Education  Society's 
Press,  Bykallah,  in  1876,  price  Rs.  1^. 
There  are  Badminton  grounds  here, 
open  to  subscribers.  Proceeding  to 
the  N.  from  the  Library,  and  turning 
to  the  right,  you  come  to  the  church, 
Christchurch.  It  stands  high,  and  is 
91  ft.  long  from  E.  to  W.  and  374 
broad  from  N.  to  S.  It  was  con- 
secrated by  Bishop  Carr,  in  1842,  and 
enlarged  in  1867.  It  can  seat  210 
persons  ;  there  are  no  tablets.  Turn- 
ing to  the  W.  about  60  yds.  you  come 
to  the  Beckwith  Monument.  It  is  a 
plain  obelisk,  about  30  ft.  high;  and 
was  erected  at  a  cost  of  Rs.  3000, 
which  was  obtained  by  public  sub- 
scription. Sir  Sydney  Beckwith  died 
here  in  1831,  while  C.-in-C.  The  sub- 
scribers put  up  an  inscription  which 
did  not  satisfy  Lady  Beckwith,  who 
sent  out  another  on  a  marble  tablet. 
Such,  however,  is  the  action  of  the 
weather  on  marble  in  India  that  this 
inscription  became  almost  illegible  in 
1843,  while  the  original  inscription 
remains  comparatively  uninjured.  Sir 
Sydney  was  amongst  the  renowned 
leaders  in  the  Peninsular  War,  and  has 
a  prouder  epitaph  in  the  narrative  of 
his  deeds  in  Napier's  "  History." 
Until  lately  Sydney  Point  was  called 
after  him.    The  inscriptions  are  : — 

No.  1  on  the  W.  face  : — 

Sacred 
To  the  memory  of 

Lieut.-Gen.  sir  T.  SYDNEY  BECKWITH, 

K.C.B.y 

Governor  and  Commander-in-chief  of  Bombay, 

And  Colonel  of  H.M.'s  Rifle  Brigade, 

Who  after  a  long  course  of 

Distinguished  Service, 

Expired  at  his  residence  on  these  Hills 

,     On  the  15th  day  of  January,  1831, 

Aged  60  years. 

Erected  by  a  small  circle  of  his  Friends 
In  testimony  of  their  admiration 

For  his  noble  character. 

And  to  perpetuate  the  name  of 

So  good  and  amiable  a  man. 

No.  2  on  the  E.  face : — 

This  tablet  is  placed 

By  Mary,  Lady  Beckwith, 

Daughter  of  the  late  Sir  William  Douglas, 

of  Kilhead,  Bart., 

As  a  Memorial 

Of  the  most  devoted  affection  for  her 

{.wnent^d  Husband, 


By  whose  sudden  death  she  has  been  deprived 

of  a  most  attached  partner  and  friend 

And  guide,  in  whom  combined  every  amiable 

quality  illustrated. in  the  Christian 

character,  *  *  *  and  the  intercourse  of 

domestic  life  has  endeared. 

A  loss 

Which  can  only  be  alleviated  by  the  hope  that 

looks  beyond  the  grave. 

The  Sympathy  of  friends  who 

Erected  this  Monument 

Has  kindly  permitted  a  sorrowing  widow 

To  add  her  heartfelt  tribute  to  theirs. 

The  writing  of  No.  1  is  much  oblite- 
rated and  blackened,  and  can  only  be 
read  with  the  greatest  di&culty  by 
help  of  an  opera  glass.  The  path  to 
the  obelisk  is  fvery  bad  and  stony. 
The  Cemetery  is  700  yds.  from  the 
obelisk,  to  the  S.E.,  on  the  left-hand 
side  of  the  road  as  you  go  to  Lodwick 
Point.  It  is  canopied  by  the  shade  of 
many  trees,  and  is  well  kept  and 
watered.  Here  is  buried  Lieut.  Hinde, 
of  the  4th  Dragoons,  who  was  killed 
on  these  Hills  by  a  bison  on  the  19th 
of  April,  1834.  He  was  a  fine  athletic 
man,  upwards  of  6  ft.  high,  but  was 
transfixed  by  the  horns  of  the  infuriated 
beast,  and  so  carried  for  some  distance. 
Here  also  is  interred  Dr.  James  Fraser 
Heddle,  sometime  Master  of  the  Mint 
at  Bombay.  He  was  a  man  of  great 
scientific  acquirements,  and  founder 
of  the  Bombay  Geogra;phical  Society. 
The  monument  of  Major  William 
Miller,  Judge  Advocate-General  of 
the  Bombay  Army,  may  also  be  re- 
marked. It  is  a  pillar  supporting  an 
urn  on  a  very  large  base.  He  died  on 
May  14th,  1836.  Another  distin- 
guished officer  buried  here  is  Captain 
Thomas  John  Newbold,  of  the  23rd 
Regiment  Madras  Army,  Assistant 
Hesident  at  Hdidardbad,  who  died 
May  29th,  1860.  From  the  Cemetery 
to  Lodwick  Point  is  2900ft.  due  E.  The 
road  descends  considerably  aU  the 
way.  At  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
before  reaching  the  monument  to 
General  Lodwick  the  carriage  stops, 
and  the  rest  of  the  way  must  be  done 
on  foot  or  on  a  pony.  The  column  is 
about  25  ft.  high  from  the  ground  to 
the  top  of  the  urn  which  surmounts 
the  pillar.  The  spot  comands  a  noble 
view  over  Pratdpgayh  to  the  W.  and 
Makrangafh  to  the  S.W.,  and  the  hills 


202 


Houte  5. — Fund  to  JfaJidbalesInvar, 


Sect  II. 


about  it.  The  bangld  and  offices  at 
the  foot  of  Pratdpgarb  are  clearly 
seen.  At  that  bangld  travellers  stop 
and  are  carried  up  in  chairs  to  the 
fort  of  PratApgarh,  the  ascent  being 
2  m.  This  bangld  from  Lodwick 
Point  is  12  m.  distant.  On  the  W. 
side  of  the  base  of  the  monument  is 
the  head  of  the  General,  sculptured  in 
alto-rilievo  in  white  marble,  pro- 
tected by  stout  tin  wire,  in  an  iron 
frame.  The  iron  has  rusted  and 
stained  the  face,  which  some  one  has 
scratched,  but  not  so  as  to  disfigure 
it.    On  the  S.  side  is  inscribed : — 

In  Memory  of 
GENERAL  PETER  LODWICK, 

Second  son  of 

John  Lodwick,  Esq.,  of  H.  Bhoebury,  Essex, 

Who  entered  the  Hon.  E.  I.  Co.'s  service  in 

1799, 

And  died  at  Bagnires  de  Bigorre,  France, 

August  28tli,  1873, 

Aged  90. 

Senior  Officer  of  U.M.'s.  forces  in  India. 

On  the  east  side  is  written: — 

In  1803  he  saw  service  as  a  subaltern 

In  connection  with  the  operations  of  tlie  army 

under  Sir  Arthur  Wellesley 

He  was  Brigade- Major  of  Colonel  Ford's 

subsidiary  force 

At  the  battle  of  Khirkl,  November  5th,  1817, 

When  2,800  British  troops  defeated  the 

Peshwd's  anny, 

And  was  present  at  the  taking  of  Purandhar, 

and  other  Hill  Forts. 

He  commanded  a  regiment  at  Kittiir  in  1824. 

He  subsequently  became  Town-Miyor  of 

Bombay, 

And  closed  his  career  in  India  as 

Resident  of  Sdtdrl 

The  first  European  who  set  foot  on  these  hills, 

He  made  known  the  salubrity  of  the  climate. 

And  led  to  the  establishment  of  the 

Mahdbaleshwar  Sanatorium, 

Thus  conferring  an  inestimable  benefit 

on  the 

Bombay  Presidency. 

On  the  N.  side  is  written  : — 

Tliis  Point, 

Now,  by  order  of  Government, 

Designated  Lodwick  Point  in  honour  of  his 

name, 

He  reached  alone  in  1827, 

After  hours  of  toil  through  the  dense  forests. 

Here,  thei  efore,  as  the  most  appropriate  spot, 

This  Monument  has,  with  the  permission  of 

Government, 

Been  erected  by  his  omIv  son, 

R.  W.  Lodwick,  of  H.M.'s.  Bombay  Ci\il 

Service, 

Accomitant-Geiiemi  of  Madras, 

Jii  15)74. 


A  few  yds.  to  the  N.  or  right  of  the 
column  is  a  path  which  leads  to  the 
precipice  at  the  Point,  whence  it  is 
seen  that  between  Lodwick  Point  and 
Elphinstone  Point  is  a  vast  glen,  down 
to  the  bottom  of  which  the  mountains 
descend  apparently  as  steeply  as  a 
wall.  There  is  a  path,  however,  a 
little  to  the  right  of  that  which  goes 
to  the  Point,  by  which  one  who  is  not 
troubled  with  giddiness  can  make  his 
way  down  to  a  village  (see  Darra)  in 
the  plain,  and  the  Indians  constantly 
ascend  and  descend  by  this  path, 
bringing  up  wood  and  grass.  The 
jungle  is  rather  thick  below,  and  ti- 
gers and  panthers  sometimes  hai'bour 
there.  A  panther  was  shot  some  time 
ago  at  the  bangld  nearest  to  the 
Point,  and  in  that  vicinity  is  a  small 
pool  where  the  print  of  the  feet 
of  wild  beasts  may  occasionally  be 
seen. 

Pratapgafh, — The  next  expedition 
should  be  to  Pratdpgaj'h,  and  there  is  no 
spot  which,  for  historic  recollections  or 
natural  beauty,  is  more  deserving  of  a 
visit.  The  road  presents  magnificent 
views  at  every  turn.  A  bold  rider 
might,  perhaps,  ride  the  whole  way 
into  the  fort,  but  the  entrance  is  very 
rugged  and  steep,  and  it  would  be, 
perhaps,  safer  and  more  convenient  to 
walk  or  to  be  carried  in  a  chair.  From 
the  walls  of  the  fort  are  seen  to  the 
S.E.  Lodwick  Point  and  Elphinstone 
Point,  and  the  Maiii  Mahal,  as  the 
Mahdbaleshwar  Hills  are  called  by 
the  natives.  Beyond  Elphinstone 
Point  towers  Raieshwar,  a  cluster 
of  black  and  abrupt  precipices  which 
no  human  foot  has  ever  trod.  To  the 
N.  rises  the  majestic  Torna  and  Baj- 
gafh,  and  in  the  far  distance  KaigaCrh. 
On  the  S.  is  Makrangaph,  or  Dhdbar, 
to  use  the  native  name.  On  the  W. 
the  creek  of  Mhdr  and  Polddpiir  are 
distinctly  visible.  In  the  fort  are  2 
temples  to  Bhawdni  and  Mahddeo, 
and  several  tanks  for  rain  water.  The 
old  tower  under  which  Shivaji,  in  Oct., 
1659,  buried  the  head  of  Afzal  Khan, 
the  Bijapiir  general,  is  crumbling  to 
decay,  and  is  overgrown  with  weeds. 
This  celebrated  exploit,  the  murder 
of  Afzal  Khdn,  laid  the  foundation  of 


Sect.  II. 


Houte  5. — Pratdpgarh, 


203 


Shivaji*B  greatness,  and  is  thus  ad- 
mirably described  by  Grant  Duff  *  : — 
"  Shivajl  provided  accommodation  for 
the  envoy  and  his  suite,  but  assigned 
a  place  for  the  Brdhman  at  some  dis- 
tance from  the  rest.  In  the  middle  of 
the  night  Shivajl  secretly  introduced 
himseS  to  Paiitoji  Goplndth.  He  ad- 
dressed him  as  a  Brahman,  his  supe- 
rior. He  represented  that  *  all  he  had 
done  was  for  the  sake  of  Hindi!is  and  the 
Hindti  faith  ;  that  he  was  called  on  by 
Bhawdnl  herself  to  protect  Brdhmans 
and  kine,  to  punish  the  violators  of 
their  temples  and  their  gods,  and  to 
resist  the  enemies  of  ther  religion  ; 
that  it  became  him  as  a  Brahman  to 
assist  in  what  was  already  declared  by 
the  deity  ;  and  that  here  amongst  his 
caste  and  countrymen  he  should  here- 
after live  in  comfort  and  affluence.' 
Shivajl  seconded  his  arguments  with 
presents,  and  a  solemn  promise  of 
bestowing  the  village  of  Hewra  in 
In'4m  on  him  and  his  posterity  for 
ever.  No  Brdhman  could  resist  such 
an  appeal,  seconded  by  such  tempta- 
tion. The  envoy  swore  fidelity  to 
Shivajl,  declared  he  was  his  for  ever, 
and  called  on  the  god  to  punish  him 
if  he  swerved  from  any  task  he  might 
impose.  They  accordingly  consulted 
on  the  fittest  means  for  averting 
the  present  danger.  The  Brdhman, 
fully  acquainted  with  Af^al  Khan's 
character,  suggested  the  practicability 
of  seducing  him  to  a  conference,  and 
Shivajl  at  once  determined  on  his 
scheme.  He  sent  for  a  confidential 
Brdhman,  already  mentioned,  Kfi^h- 
najl  Bhdskar,  informed  him  of  what 
had  just  passed,  and  of  the  resolu- 
tion which  he  had,  in  consequence, 
adopted.  After  fully  consulting  on 
the  subject,  they  separated  as  secretly 
as  they  had  met. 

"  Some  interviews  and  discussions 
having  taken  place,  merely  for  the 
purpose  of  masking  their  design,  Krish- 
najl  Bhdskar,  as  Shivajl's  vakil,  was 
despatched  with  Pantojl  Gopln^th,  to 
the  camp  of  Afzal  Khdn.  The  latter 
represented  Shivajl  as  in  great  alarm  ; 
but  if  his  fears  could  be  overcome  by 

■^  VqI.  i.  p.  IGO. 


the  personal  assurances  of  the  Khdn, 
he  was  convinced  that  he  might 
easily  be  prevailed  upon  to  give  him- 
self up.  With  a  blind  confidence, 
Afzal  Kh4n  trusted  himself  to  Pan- 
tojl's  guidance.  An  interview  was 
agreed  upon,  and  the  Bljaptir  troops 
with  great  labour  moved  to  Jdoll. 
Shivajl  prepared  aplacefor  themeeting 
below  the  fort  of  PratApgarh ;  he  cut 
down  the  jungle  and  cleared  a  road  for 
the  Khan's  approach ;  but  every  other 
avenue  to  the  place  was  carefully  closed. 
He  ordered  up  Moro  Pant  and  Netaji 
P^lkar  from  the  Konkan.  with  many 
thousands  of  the  Mdwall  infantry. 
He  communicated  his  whole  plan  to 
these  two,  and  to  Tdnajl  Mdlusr^. 
Netaji  was  stationed  in  the  thickets  a 
little  to  the  E.  of  the  fort,  where  it 
was  expected  that  a  part  of  the  Khdn*8 
retinue  would  advance,  and  Moro 
Trimmal,  with  the  old  and  tried  men, 
was  sent  to  conceal  himself  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  the  main  body  of 
the  Bljapiir  troops,  which  remained, 
as  had  been  agreed  upon,  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Jioll.  The  precon- 
certed signal  for  Netaji  was  the  blast 
of  a  horn,  and  the  distant  attack,  by 
Moro  Trimmal,  was  to  commence  on 
hearing  the  fire  of  five  guns  from 
Pratdpgarh,  which  were  also  to  an- 
nounce Shivajl's  safety.  1500  of  Afzal 
Khdn's  troops  accompanied  him  to 
within  a  few  hundred  yards  of  Pra- 
tdpgayh,  where,  for  fear  of  alarming 
Shivajl,  they  were,  at  Pantojl  Gopi- 
ndth's  suggestion,  desired  to  halt. 
Af^al  Khdn,  dressed  in  a  thin  muslin 
garment,  armed  only  with  his  sword, 
and  attended,  as  had  been  agreed,  by 
a  single  armed  follower,  advanced  in 
his  pdlkl  to  an  open  bangld  prepared 
for  the  occasion. 

"  Shivajl  had  made  preparations  for 
his  purpose,  not  as  if  conscious  that 
he  meditated  a  criminal  and  treacher- 
ous deed,  but  as  if  resolved  on  some 
meritorious,  though  desperate  action. 
Having  performed  his  ablutions  with 
much  earnestness,  he  laid  his  bead  at 
his  mother's  feet  and  besought  her 
blessing.  He  then  arose,  put  on  a 
steel  chain  cap  and  chain  armour 
under  his  turban  and  cotton  gown. 


204 


Boute  5. — Ptind  to  Malidbaleshwar, 


Sect.  II. 


concealed  a  crooked  dagger,  or  hicJiwd, 
in  his  right  sieve,  and  on  the  fingers 
of  his  left  hand  he  fixed  a  wdghnaJth, 
a  treacherous  weapon,  well  known 
among  Mardthas.  Thus  accoutred,  he 
slowly  descended  the  fort.  The  Khdn 
had  arrived  at  the  place  of  meeting 
before  him,  and  was  expressing  his 
impatience  at  the  delay,  when  Shivajl 
was  seen  advancing,  apparently  un- 
armed, and,  like  the  Khdn,  attended 
by  only  one  armed  follower,  his  tried 
fnend  Tdnaji  MAlusr6.  Shivajl,  in 
view  of  Afzal  Khdn,  frequently 
stopped,  which  was  represented  as 
the  effects  of  alarm,  a  supposition 
more  likely  to  be  admitted  from  his 
diminutive  size.  Under  pretence  of 
assuring  Shivajl,  the  armed  attendant, 
by  the  contrivance  of  the  Brdhman, 
stood  atafew  paces  distant.  Afzal  Kh  An 
made  no  objection  to  Shivaji'sfollower, 
although  he  carried  two  swords  in  his 
waistband, — a  circumstance  which 
might  pass  unnoticed,  being  common 
among  MarAthas  ;  he  advanced  two 
or  three  paces  to  meet  Shivaji ;  they 
were  introduced,  and,  in  the  midst  of 
the  customary  embrace,  the  treacher- 
ous MarAtha  struck  the  TvdgJinaTth  into 
the  bowels  of  Afzal  KhAn,  who  quickly 
disengaged  himself,  clapped  his  hand 
on  his  sword,  exclaiming,  'Trea- 
chery and  murder  I '  But  Shivajl  in- 
stantly followed  up  the  blow  with  his 
dagger.  The  KhAn  had  drawn  his 
sword,  and  made  a  cut  at  Shivajl,  but 
the  concealed  armour  was  proof 
against  the  blow :  the  whole  was  the 
work  of  a  moment,  and  Shivaji  was 
wresting  the  weapon  from  the  hand 
of  his  victim  before  their  attendants 
could  run  towards  them.  Saiyid 
Bandii,  the  follower  of  the  KhAn, 
whose  name  deserves  to  be  recorded, 
refused  his  life  on  condition  of  sur- 
render ;  and,  against  two  such  swords- 
men as  Shivaji  and  his  companion, 
maintained  an  unequal  combat  before 
he  fell.  The  bearers  had  lifted  the 
KhAn  into  his  pAlkl  during  the  scuflle  ; 
but,  by  the  time  it  was  over,  Ehaiidu 
Mall6,  and  some  other  followers  of 
Shivaji,  had  come  up,  when  they  cut 
off  the  head  of  the  dying  man,  and 
earned  it  to  PratApgayh.    The  signals 


agreed  on  were  now  made  ;  the  M4- 
walls  rushed  from  their  concealment, 
and  beset  the  nearest  part  of  the  Bi- 
jApdr  troops  on  all  sides,  few  of  whom 
had  time  to  mount  their  horses  or 
stand  to  their  arms.  Netaji  PAlkar 
gave  no  quarter ;  but  orders  were  sent 
to  Moro  Pafit  to  spare  all  who  sub- 
mitted ;  and  Shivajl's  humanity  to  his 
prisoners  was  conspicuous  on  this  as 
well  as  on  most  occasions.  This  success 
among  a  people  who  cared  little  for 
the  means  by  which  it  was  attainedi 
greatly  raised  the  reputation  of 
Shivajl;  and  the  immediate  fruits  of 
it  were  4000  horses,  several  elephants, 
a  number  of  camels,  a  considerable 
treasure,  and  the  whole  train  of 
equipment  which  had  been  sent 
against  him." 

JDarra, — The  sportsman  vdll  find 
excellent  shiMris  or  native  huntsmen 
at  the  Hills  waiting  to  be  employed, 
and  many  places  all  routed  where  he 
may  ply  his  rifle  and  gun.  Jungle 
fowl  and  spur  fowl  are  to  be  had  in 
most  directions,  and  there  is  always  a 
chance  of  coming  upon  a  panther,  a 
cliitdf  a  bear,  or  a  tiger.  Bison,  once 
numerous  on  the  hills,  are  now  only 
to  be  found  at  considerable  distances, 
and  are  excessively  shy.  For  a  first 
attempt  the  visitor  in  search  of  game 
may  descend  between  Sydney  and 
Elphinstone  Points  to  the  village  of 
Darra,  which  is  situated  about  2000  ft. 
down.  The  descent  is  rather  fatiguing 
on  account  of  the  long  grass,  low  jun- 
gle, and  broken  masses  of  rocks,  where 
snakes  are  plentiful.  Besides  the 
cobra,  and  rock  snake,  there  are  great 
numbers  of  a  most  deadly  little  snake, 
called  by  the  natives  phurscn^  the 
Kaju  TatA  of  Russell.  It  is  requi- 
site, therefore,  to  be  careful,  though 
no  European  has  yet  been  killed  by 
the  bite  of  these  reptiles.  Instances, 
however,  of  deaths  among  the  natives 
owing  to  the  bites  of  snakes  are 
not  uncommon.  Enormous  mon- 
keys inhabit  the  trees  which  clothe 
the  sides  of  the  mountains,  and  there 
are  a  few  peacocks,  which  two  kinds 
of  animals  are  said]  to  be  always  in 
spots  where  the  tiger  is  found.  The 
monkeys,   by  their  cries  and  excit 


Sect.  11. 


Eoute  6. — Pimd  to  SlwldpUr, 


205 


ment,  will  generally  make  known  the 
whereabouts  of  the  monster.  After 
reaching  Darra  there  is  a  path  beside 
a  clear  stream  to  another  village,  and 
thence  the  return  may  be  made  up 
Lodwick  Point.  As  the  climber  ad- 
vances, the  ascent  grows  more  steep, 
until  near,  the  top  there  is  a  sheet  of 
grass  without  any  jungle,  so  extremely 
slippery,  that  it  is  almost  impossible  to 
cross  it  with  unspiked  shoes,  next  to 
which  bare  feet  are  safest.  To  those 
who  are  accustomed  to  climb  moun- 
tains, the  ascent  will  be  very  enjoyable, 
commanding  as  it  does  the  most  mag- 
nificent scenery  on  either  side.  To  per- 
sons subject  to  giddiness  this  path  can 
hardly  be  recommended,  as  a  slip 
might  cany  them  down  many  hundred 
feet  into  the  forests  below.  After 
passing  the  grass,  a  narrow  path  about 
three  feet  broad  is  reached,  which  winds 
along  under  Sydney  Point  on  the  brink 
of  a  tremendous  precipice,  and  at  last 
leads  to  the  road.  So  great  is  the 
height  that  if  the  visitor  has  nerve 
to  look  down  he  will  see  the  most 
gigantic  trees  dwarfed  to  tiny  shrubs. 
Indeed  the  forest  looks  almost  like  a 
carpet  of  moss. 

Makrangafh, — Another  place  where 
game  is  to  be  found  is  the  forest  near 
Makranga^h.  A  ride  of  about  13  miles 
leads  through  beautiful  scenery  to  the 
village  of  Dewli,  where  the  sportsman 
may  halt  in  an  old  temple,  under 
some  of  the  tallest  trees  to  be  found 
in  these  parts.  In  the  early  morning 
the  jungle  fowl  and  partridges  will 
be  heard  crying  in  all  directions  on 
the  road  hither,  from  the  Hills'  side  ; 
while  as  evening  comes  on,  shouts 
may  be  occasionally  heard  &om  the 
herdsmen  calling  to  one  another  to  be 
on  the  look  out,  as  some  one  among 
them  has  from  the  mountain  top 
descried  a  prowling  tiger  near  the 
herds.  A  fine  river  flows  through  the 
valleys  in  this  direction,  and  the  jun- 
gles are  adorned  with  magnificent 
timber.  Bears  and  chitaly  the  spotted 
antelope,  are  obtainable  here,  and 
occasionally  tigers  ;  but  the  jungle  is 
so  thick  that  it  is  exceedingly  difficult 
to  follow  up  or  secure  a  wounded 
animal. 


There  are  many  other  beautiful  spots 
aroimd  the  hills  which  the  traveller 
can  explore,  taldng  with  him  an  In- 
dian guide;  but  the  most  important 
have  been  described.  A  month  may 
be  delightfully  passed  on  the  hills. 
The  rent  of  houses  for  the  season  is 
from  Rs.  300  to  1600. 


Table  of  Fares  for  Phaetons,  Dog-cariSj  Twigas, 
Shigrams,  and  Bullock-carts. 

R.  A. 

Morning  or  evening  drive  for  3  hrs.,  or 
under,  within  municipal  limits  :— 
Phaeton  with  2  horses  .  .  .30 
„  1  horse  .  .  ..20 
Tonga,  with  2  horses  .  .  .  .20 
Dog-cart  or  Shigram,  with  1  horse  .  1 J  0 
Bullock-cart 10 

On  the  hill  the  whole  day  within  muni- 
cipal limits : — 
Phaetons,  with  2  horses  .  .  .60 
„  „  1  horse  .  .  ..40 
Tonga,  with  2  horses  .  .  .  .50 
Dog-cart  or  Shigram  .  .  ..30 
BoUock-cart 2    0 


ROUTE  6, 

PUNA  TO  SHOLAPUE. 

For  the  stations  and  distances  on 
this  route  refer  to  Time  Table,  Route  I. 
The  whole  distance  to  Sholdpiir,  163| 
m.,  is  passed  through  a  level  and,  in 
general,  treeless  country,  with  but  few 
villages,  and  no  town  of  importance. 
The  hills  on  either  hand  nowhere  rise 
above  700  ft.,  and  are  at  3  to  5  m. 
distance,  except  in  a  veiy  few  places. 
A  road  runs  parallel  to  the  line.  The 
station-houses  are  small  but  neat,  with 
pretty  gardens  and  palings  covered 
with  creepers  with  white  flowers.  The 
first  station  is  Loni,  but  the  name  is 


^ 


206 


Houte  6. — Fund  to  Slwldiy&r, 


Sect.  II. 


not  written  up.  It  is  to  the  right  of 
the  line.  The  line  is  single  all  the 
way.  The  next  station,  Urll,  is  a  mid- 
dling-sized* village.  The  station  is  on 
the  right,  as  is  the  next  station,  Khed- 
gaoii,  where  the  train  stops  for  a  few 
minutes ;  Patds,  the  next  station,  is 
also  on  the  right,  and  Dhond  is  on  the 
left.  Diksal,  on  the  right,  is  a  small 
village,  where  there  is  time  to  take  a 
cup  of  tea.  Two  m.  beyond  Diksal 
you  cross  the  Bhima  river.  PumAlwddl 
station  is  on  the  right,  and  Jaiir  is  on 
the  left.  Here  mimosa  trees  are  very 
thick.  The  line  passes  between  banks 
of  earth,  which  are  so  close  as 
almost  to  touch  the  train.  Kem,  the 
next  station,  is  a  large  and  flourishing 
village,  the  largest  place  between  PunS 
and  Sholdpi^r.  There  is  a  fine  clump 
of  trees  on  the  right.  Bdrsi  Road  is 
a  nice  station  on  the  right,  near  a  large 
village.  This  place  is  the  station  from 
which,  in  the  rains,  travellers  who  in- 
tend to  visit  Pandharpi!ir  must  turn  off 
to  the  S.,  the  distance  being  about  30 
m.  In  dry  weather  they  will  proceed 
to  Mohal,  28  m.  farther ;  but  the  dis- 
tance is  only  24  m.  from  Pandharpiir. 
Pandharpiir  is  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Bhima  river,  39  m.  W.  of  ShoUpilir. 
There  is  here  a  very  celebrated  temple 
to  Witthobd,  or  Withthal.  The  name 
is  said  to  be  derived  from  "W?i,'* 
knowledge,  Jlia,  privation,  and  La, 
"  who  take8,"=receiver  of  the  ignorant. 
The  people  in  charge  of  this  idol,  his 
clothes,  etc.,  are  the  Badwars.  The 
temple  is  said  to  have  been  built  in 
A.D.  80,  and  was  rented  by  certain 
Br^hmans  till  1081,  then  by  Badwfirs. 
The  idol  wears  a  high  cap,  and  has  a 
most  ludicrous  appearance.  The  le- 
gend is  that  a  Brdhman  named  Pan- 
delli,  going  on  a  pilgrimage  to  Banaras, 
neglected  his  parents  and  stopped  in 
a  Brdhman*s  house  at  Pandharpiir,  and 
saw  Gang^,  Yamuna,  and  Saraswati 
acting  as  handmaids  to  his  host  on 
account  of  his  filial  piety.  Pandelli 
then  gave  up  his  pilgrimage  to  Band- 
ras,  stopped  at  Pandharpiir,  and  treated 
his  pai'ents  with  great  respect  and 
honour,  whereupon  Vishnu  became  in- 
carnate in  him  as  Witthobd.  The  idol 
is  4  ft.  high,  and  the  pedestal  on  which 


it  stands  is  covered  with  4  silver  plates. 
I  The  first  chamber  in  the  temple  has 
16  pillars,  and  is  a  room  40  ft.  sq.  and 
10  ft.  high,  without  windows  and  ven- 
tilation.   The  2nd  pillar  on  the  left  is 
covered  with  silver  plates,  and  pil- 
grims embrace  it.     The  next  room  is 
called  the  Chdrkhamb,  and  is  20  ft.  sq. 
and  10  ft.  high.    The  idol  chamber  is 
8  ft.  sq.    Immense  crowds  of  pilgrims 
visit  this  temple  at  certain  times,  par- 
ticularly on  the  11th  day  from  the 
new  moon  and  the  11th  from  the  full 
moon  in  A^hddh  and  K^tik,  July  and 
October,  and  suffer  greatly  from  the 
crush  and  the   want  of  ventilation. 
The  pop.  of  Pandharpiir  is  16,275,  of 
which  the  Hindiis  are  16,267.  Between 
Bdrsl  and  Pandharpiir  there  is  a  good 
T.  B.  at  Shetphal,  13^  m.  from  Bdrsl. 
SJwldp€kr   is   a  city  of  53,403  in- 
habitants, the  capital  of  a  coUectorate, 
and  protected  by  a  strong  fort.    The 
T.  B.  is  350  yards  E.  of  the  station. 
The  fort  is  1^  m.  N.W.  of  the  station. 
It  is  built  on  level  ground,  with  a  very 
slight  fall  to  the  N.    The  ramparts  are 
of  mud,  with  a  fausse-braie.    It  has 
flanking  semicircular  bastions,  with  4 
high  towers.    It  has  the  Tank  of  Sa- 
deshwar  to  the  E.,  and  a  broad  and 
deep  ditch  on  the  other  3  sides.    The 
first  gate  is  called  the  Edntd  Dar- 
wdzah  or  Spike  Gate,  from  the  iron 
spikes  with  which  the  huge  massive 
wooden  doors  are  garnished.    These 
are  to  keep  off  elephants,  which  used 
to  be  trained  to  break  in  gates  by  push- 
ing with  their  foreheads.    It  has  a 
Persian  inscription,  of  which  the  fol- 
lowing   is   the    translation  :  —  "  The 
building  and  repairs  of  the  Spike  Gate 
with  iron,  and  of  the  sallyport  of  the 
Fort  Sholdpiir  in  the  fortunate  Province 
of  AurangabM,  took  place  in  the  reign 
of  Bdja  Sdhii,   King  of  Sdtdra,  and 
by  order  of  the    Peshwa    BAji   Rdo 
(may  his  good  fortune  be  perpetuated  I) 
and  under  the  advice  of  Saddseo  Pan- 
dit, Governor  of  the  said  Fort,  by  the 
hands  of  Special  Councillor  Abdjl  Ba- 
lAr,  Secretary  and  Deputy  of  the  said 
Governor.  The  building  was  completed 
on  the  1st  of  Muliarram,  in  the  year 
1225  of  the  holy  Hijrah  (A.D.  1806)." 
The  second  gate  is  at  an  angle  to  the 


Sect.  II. 


Houte  6. — Slioldpur. 


207 


first,  and  is  called  the  Mahang  Gate. 
The  1st  gate  has  2  rhinoceroses  carved 
above  it,  and  the  2nd  two  lions.  The 
walls  are  about  40  ft.  high.  Observe  in 
the  revetments  many  stones  taken  from 
Hindii  temples,  on  which  figures  of 
A^ishnUjMahadeo,  and  of  elephants  and 
peacocks  are  seen.  The  walls  are  not 
solid  enough  when  heavy  guns  are 
being  fired  on  them,  and  there  is  now 
no  communication  between  the  ditch 
and  the  interior  of  the  B'ort.  To  make 
it  really  strong  there  should  be  bomb- 
proofs.  There  is  in  the  city,  which  lies 
N.  of  the  Fort,  a  good  high  school  for 
boys  and  young  men,  and  a  school  for 
girls,  which  may  be  visited  by  those 
interested  in  educational  matters. 
There  are  between  50  and  60  girls, 
taught  by  a  BrAhmanl  lady,  but 
none  of  the  scholars  are  over  12  years 
of  age,  and  some  of  them  are  already 
married.  The  cantonment  at  Sholdpili-, 
which  lies  S.E.  of  the  station,  has  a 
deserted  look  and  many  houses  are 
falling  down.  There  was  once  a  strong 
force  here,  but  nearly  all  the  troops 
have  been  withdrawn.  In  April,  1818, 
General  Munro  marched  against  a 
body  of  BAji  RAo's  infantry,  4500  in 
number,  who  had  with  them  13  guns, 
and  were  commanded  by  Ganpat  Rdo 
Phdns6.  On  hearing  of  General  Mun- 
ro's  approach,  they  retreated  under  the 
walls  of  the  strong  fort  of  ShoUpiir, 
where  they  were  followed  up,  attacked, 
routed,  and  pursued  with  great 
slaughter.  The  P6ta  of  SholApiir  had 
been  previously  carried  by  escalade, 
and  the  Fort,  after  a  short  siege,  sur- 
rendered. (Grant  Duff,  vol.  iii.  p.  484.) 
There  is  a  fine  cotton-mill  at  SholApiir. 
It  is  near  the  Police  Station,  close  to 
the  Railway,  and  4  m.  S.W.  of  the 
Fort.  The  principal  owner  is  Murdrjl 
Gokaldds,  a  well-known  wealthy  mer- 
chant of  Bombay,  whose  family  have 
been  famous  for  their  liberality.  It 
is  278  ft.  long  by  84  ft.  wide,  and 
works  16,000  spindles.  The  lower 
story  is  16  ft.  high,  and  is  the  carding- 
room ;  and  the  story  above,  16  ft.  high, 
is  the  spinning-room.  The  chimney 
is  130  ft.  high.  The  weaving  shed  is 
138  ft.  long  by  78  ft.  wide.  The  en- 
gine-house is  48  ft.  by  30  ft.    This  Mill 


cost  £60,000.  Observe  that  in  Sho- 
lapi!ir  from  4 J  to  6  bales,  containing 
784  lbs.  of  cotton  each,  make  one 
khandi ;  but  in  Gujarat  only  \\  bales. 
The  railway  charge  for  carrying  a 
khandi  of  cotton  to  Bombay  is  Rs.  14, 
or  Rs.  3J  to  3i  per  bale.  Out  of  a 
khandi  of  cotton  2.  bales  of  yarn  are 
got  of  300  lbs.  each,  and  25  per  cent, 
is  waste.  Each  bale  pays  10  dnds  for 
municipal  tax,  and  Rs.  1^  brokerage. 
In  some  respects  the  mill  at  SholApiir 
is  worked  more  cheaply  than  those  in 
Bombay,  where  a  khandi  of  firewood 
weighs  800  lbs.  and  costs  Rs.  4 J  ;  but 
in  SholApilr  a  khandi  of  wood  weighs 
1600  lbs.  and  costs  Rs.  6.  Water  for 
the  mill  in  Bombay  costs  R.  1  for 
1000  gallons,  and  in  Sholdpiir  R.  1 
for  25,000  gallons. 

At  about  3  m.  N.  of  the  city  of  Sho- 
ldpiir is  the  Eki-ilkh  Tank.  This  tank 
has  been  formed  by  an  embankment 
of  earth  and  rough  stones  1 J  m.  long, 
which  has  been  carried  across  the  Ad- 
hin  river.  The  Indians  call  this  river 
the  Balen  Ndlah,  but  this  Ndlah  is  a 
smaller  rivulet  to  the  W.  The  lake  is 
10  m.  in  its  extreme  length,  and  4  m. 
at  its  greatest  breadth.  The  area  is 
about  6i  sq.  m.  at  full  supply  level. 
To  speak  with  precision,  the  embank- 
ment is  6980  ft.  long,  and  from  8  to 
18  ft.  broad  at  top.  There  are  2  towers, 
from  one  of  which  there  is  an  escape 
sluice  raised  by  a  capstan.  Three 
canals,  2  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river 
and  1  on  the  right,  are  carried  fi-om 
the  tank  to  irrigate  the  surrounding 
country.  The  High-level  canal  on  the 
left  bank  waters  2.40  sq.  m.  The 
Low-level  canal  from  the  left  bank 
waters  16.32  sq.  m.  The  High-level 
waters  10.12  sq.  m.  The  greatest 
height  of  the  embankment  is  76^  ft., 
and  the  greatest  depth  of  water  60  ft. 
There  are  thousands  of  trees  along  the 
course  of  the  canals,  but  no  great  plan- 
tation near  the  lake,  as  the  soil  is  rock, 
which  gets  harder  the  lower  you  go. 
In  such  ground  a  hole  must  be  dug  10 
ft.  deep  and  filled  with  earth  for  a 
tree  to  grow  in  it.  There  are  a  few 
alligators  in  the  lake,  and  plenty  of 
fish.  The  fishery  lets  for  450  rs.  a 
year.    But  for  this  lake,  which  ha« 


208 


Eoute  7. — Sholdpur  to  Bi;dpiir, 


Sect.  II. 


only  lately  been  finished,  the  whole 
district  near,  and  even  the  city  of  Sho- 
lapiir  itself,  must  havo  been  deserted 
daring^  the  late  famine.  The  road  to 
the  la^e  is  impassable  in  the  rains ;  it 
crosses  2  canals,  the  first  of  which  is 
so  deep  even  in  the  dry  weather  that 
the  water  flows  into  a  back  seat  of  a 
Tonga.  There  is,  besides,  the  broad 
bed  of  a  river  to  be  crossed,  which 
would  be  quite  impassable  in  the  rains. 
This  lake  affords  a  signal  example  of 
the  advantage  of  embanking  streams 
in  India. 


ROUTE  7. 

SHOLAPUB  TO  BLTAPUB. 

The  stages  are  as  follows  : — 

Miles. 
From  the  judges'  bangU  at  ShoUpiir  to 

Dholkeir 20 

Dholkeir  to  Gundwan 12 

Gundwan  to  Horti 8 

Horti  to  Jadgnndi 8 

Jadgun41  to  JBydpiir         .        .        .       .  12 

Total    .  .     eo 

After  2  m.  the  Motl  TalAo  or  Pearl 
Tank,  at  the  extremity  of  the  can- 
tonment, is  reached.  It  is  usual  to 
change  horses  at  the  5th  milestone, 
and  here  for  4  m.  the  road  is  shaded 
by  low  tamarisk  trees,  which  grow  on 
either  side  as  far  as  the  river  Bhlma. 
This  river  would  scarcely  be  passable 
ill  the  rains  except  in  a  boat,  but  it  is 
not  more  than  3  ft.  deep  in  the  warm 
weather,  and  has  a  rocky  bed.  After 
passing  the  19th  milestone  the  Bhlma 
river  must  be  crossed  again  to  reach 
the  banglA,  which  is  150  yds.  off  the 
road  to  the  right,  and  is  a  mere  dharm- 
sdla,  with  no  comfort  or  conveni- 
ence, and   open  to  the  public  view. 


This  place  ijs  200  ft.  lower  than  the 
£kn!ikh  Tank.    There  are  2  villages, 
Yarji  and  Jalkl,  between  Dholkeir  and 
GundwAn.    The  T.  B.  at  GundwAn  is 
more  wretched  than  that  at  Dholkeir. 
The  bugs  here  are  very  numerous.    At 
Horti  the  domes  of  the  buildings  at 
Bij&piiir  are  visible  from  the  rising 
ground.    At  the  43rd  m.  low  hills  be- 
gin, and  at  the  45th  the  white  tomb 
of  one  D&iid  Malik  is  passed  on  the 
right.    It  is  on  a  hill  a  mile  or  more 
off.    At  the  50th  m.  there  is  a  thick 
clump  of  trees,  and  before  reaching  it 
observe  some  small  tombs  and  temples, 
with  a  red  image  and  a  stone  with 
curious  drawings  like  ships.    The  road 
for  the  last  5  m.  is  through  a  stony  and 
desolate  tract,  and  though  the  appear- 
ance of  some  of  the  domed  buildings 
in  the  city  is  striking,  no  one  would 
imagine  that  here  stood  a  city,  the 
capital  of  the  Dakhan,  the  walls  of 
wnich  '^  were  of  immense  extent,  and 
its  fort  6  m.  in  circumference  "  (Grant 
Duff,  vol.  i.  p.  339),  while  its  sovereign 
maintained  an  army  of  80,000  horse 
and  200,000  infantry.    A  description 
of  Bij4pi!ir  has  been  given  by  Oapt. 
Sydenham  in  the  Asiatic  Besearches, 
vol.  xiii.  p.  432,  4th  ed. ;  and  also  by 
Colonel  Sykes  in  the  Trans,  of  the  Lit. 
Soc.  of  Bombay,  vol.  iii.  p.  55;  and 
by  Dr.  James  Bird  in  the  Jour,  of 
the  Bom.  As.  Soc.  for  May,  1844.  The 
description  which  follows  represents 
the  state  of  the  city  and  buildings  as 
they  now  are.  The  city  is  said  to  have 
extended,  at  its  most  flourishing  pe- 
riod, to  a  circumference  of  30  m. ;  but 
this  must  have  included  the  suburbs, 
which   were   formerly    divided    into 
Piiralis,  of  which  that  on  the  W.  was 
called  Sh4hpi!irah,  which  was  joined 
by  the  Ydkiitpiirah,  and  by  the  \Zuhrah 
or  Ibrah^pilirah  to  the  S.  of  these  2. 
All  3  seem  to  have  been  called  Tor- 
wah,  and  in  themselves  formed  a  new 
city,  which  was  fortified  by  Ibrahim 
»Adil  Shah  II.  the  24th  year  of  his 
reign,  A.H.  1011=AD.  1604.    The  as- 
trologers having  declared  that  to  re- 
main in  the  cittidel  would  be  unlucky, 
Ibrahim  removed  his  seat  of  govern- 
ment from  that  place  to  Torwah.    The 
new  capital,  however,  was  plundered 


Sect.  II. 


Boute  7. — Bij'dpiir, 


209 


bj  Malik  Ambar  o£  A^madnagar  in 
A.H.  1031===A.D.  1621.  On  this  the 
Court  returned  from  Torwah  to  the 
citadel ;  and  when  Aurangzib  took 
Bij&pi!ir,  Torwah  Was  "quite  depopu- 
lated, its  ruined  palaces  only  remain- 
ing, with  a  thick  wall  surrounding  it, 
whose  stately  gateways  were  falling 
to  decay."  This  suburb  then,  whose 
walls  extended  3  m.  from  the  W.  gate 
of  the  fort,  and  probably  other  suburbs 
which  have  now  utterly  perished,  must 
have  been  included  in  the  30  m.  What 
is  called  the  city  now  is  the  fort,  of 
which  Grant  Duff  says  that  it  was  6 
m.  in  circumference.  It  is  more  pre- 
cisely 28,760  ft.  round,  or  about  6i  m. 
The  total  pop.  according  to  the  Census 
of  1872  is  12,938.  Within  the  walls  of 
the  fort  is  the  citadel,  the  walls  of 
which  extend  1660  ft.  from  N.  to  S., 
and  1900  ft  from  W.  to  E.  The  tra- 
Tcller  coming  from  Sholdpiir  will  enter 
BijApiir  fort  or  city  by  the  ^Ahpiir 
gate,  which  is  on  the  N.W.  of  the  cita- 
del in  the  city  wall.  "When  he  comes 
to  examine  the  buildings,  he  will  then 
see  a  proof  of  the  former  riches  and 
magnificence  of  this  ruined  capital. 
He  will  see  a  dome  127^  ft.  in  dia- 
meter, while  that  of  St.  Peter's  is  only 
139,  and  that  of  St.  Paul's  108.*  But 
before  examining  the  edifices  he  must 
locate  himself  in  Khawds  KhAn's 
tomb,  which  is  now  used  as  a  T.  B. 
This  buUding  is  3600  ft.  S.  by  E.  of 
the  Sh4hpiir  Qate.  It  is  well  built 
and  handsome,  but  unfortunately 
swarms  with  bugs.  Snakes  also  are 
pretty  numerous,  and  a  tic  polongai 
4J  ft.  long,  which  had  just  swallowed 
a  large  rat,  was  killed  a  short  time 
since  close  to  the  bangld.  Bij&pilir, 
like  all  ruined  cities,  is  also  very  un- 
healthy during  tiie  rains,  and  for  some 
time  after  them.  During  the  late  fa- 
mine it  suffered  very  severely,  and 
about  60,000  persons  died  in  the  city 
and  surrounding  country.  Before 
making  excursions  the  traveller  will 
do  well  to  fix  in  his  memory  the  names 
of  the  gates  of  the  foi*t  or  city,  and 
their  locality.    The  Shdhpiir  Gate  on 

*  See  "Trans,  of  Arch.  Inst,"  Kovember, 
1854. 

[i?om6ay— 1880.] 


the  N.W.  has  already  been  mentioned. 
2400  ft.  to  the  8.  of  it  is  the  Paddea 
Gate,  and  600  ft.  to  the  S.  of  that  is 
the  Makkah  Gate.  Almost  exactly 
opposite  to  it  on  tiie  other  or  B.  side 
of  the  fort  is  'AUpiir  Gate  or  High 
Gate,  wrongly  called  in  maps  and 
elsewhere  the  Allahpoor  Gate.  1200 
ft.  to  the  N.  of  it  is  the  PadshAhpiir 
Gate,  and  6400  ft.  to  the  N.  of  that, 
and  in  the  centre  of  the  N.  wall  of  the 
fort,  is  the  Bdhmani  Gate.  The  first 
expedition  will  be  to  the  Ibrahim 
Bo^ah,  which  is  outside  the  Paddea 
Gate ;  and  returning  thence  the  Mau- 
soleum of  'Abdu'r  Baz&^  and  that  of 
Bigam  ^d^ibah  and  Kishwar  Ehdn's 
Mosque  may  be  visited.  Of  the  Ibra- 
him Ko?ah,  Dr.  Bird  says  truly,  "this 
tomb  is  decidedly  the  most  chaste  in 
design  and  classical  in  execution  of  all 
the  works  which  the  Bijdpiir  sove- 
reigns have  left  behind  them.'*  The 
traveller  will  proceed  first  to  the  Mak- 
kah Gate,  which  is  300  yds.  almost  due 
W.  of  the  T.  B.  The  Ibrahim  Ro?ah 
is  400  yds.  W.  by  N.  of  this  gate.  This 
magnificent  buUding  is  said  to  have 
been  erected  by  a  Persian  architect. 
It  is  inclosed  by  a  strong  wall  with  a 
lofty  gateway.  The  inclosure  is  600 
ft.  from  N.  to  S.,  and  240  ft  from  E. 
to  W.  The  tomb  has  to  the  W.  a  very 
beautiful  mosque  106  ft  long  from 
N.  to  S.,  and  66  ft  deep  from  E.  to  W., 
which  presents  to  the  E.  a  front  of  7 
graceful  arches.  In  the  open  space 
between  it  is  a  ruined  fountain  with 
a  reservoir.  On  each  of  the  4  sides  of 
the  Bof  ah  or  tomb  is  a  tasteful  colon- 
nade open  at  the  side  by  7  arches,  and 
forming  a  verandah  of  16  ft.  broad 
round  the  whole  edifice.  The  pave- 
ment of  this  colonnade  is  slightly  ele- 
vated, and  its  ceiling  is  exquisitely 
carved  with  verses  of  the  Kur*dn,  in- 
closed in  compartments  and  inter- 
spersed with  wreaths  of  flowers.  The 
letters  were  originally  gilt,  and  the 
ground  is  still  a  most  brilliant  azure. 
In  some  places  the  gilding  is  also  still 
remaining.  The  border  of  every  com- 
partment is  different  from  that  of  the 
one  adjoining.  The  windows  are 
formed  of  lattice-work  of  Arabic  sen- 
tences, cut  out  of  stone  slabs,  the  space 


210 


Boute  7. — Slioldpur  to  Bijajytir, 


Sect.  IT. 


between   each   letter   admitting  the 
light.    This  work  }8  so  admirably  exe- 
cuted that  Colonel  Sykes  declares  there 
is   nothing  to  surpass   it   in  India. 
Above  the  colonnade  outside  the  build- 
ing is  a  magnificent  cornice  with  a 
graceful  and  lofty  minaret  4  stories 
high    at   each  comer,  and  between 
every  2  such  minarets  are  6  smaller. 
From  a  2nd  inclosure,  with  4  mina- 
rets on  each  side,  rises  the  dome,  the 
plan  of  the  building  resembling  that 
of  the  tombs  at  Golkondah.    The  ceil- 
ing of  the  Rozah  is  quite  flat,  being 
made  of  square  slabs  without  apparent 
support;  and  it  is  remarkable  that 
this  tomb  and  its  adjoining  mosque 
are  the  only  stone  edifices  in  Bij&pilir 
of  this  description.    Under  this  roof 
is  a  cove  projecting  10  ft.  from  the 
walls  on  every  side.    Mr.  Fergusson 
says  in  his  "Hist,  of  Arch."  p.  562, 
"  how  the  roof  is  supported  is  a  mystery 
which  can  only  be  understood  by  those 
who  are  familiar  with  the  use  the  In- 
dians  make  of   masses  of   concrete, 
which,  with  good  mortar,  seems  ca- 
pable of  infinite  applications  unknown 
in  Europe."  The  apartment  so  covered 
in  is  40  ft.  sq.,  and  above  it  "  is  an- 
other in  the  dome  as  ornamental  as 
the  one  below  it,  though  its  only  ob- 
ject is  to  obtain  externally  the  height 
required  for  architectural  effect,  and 
access  to  its  interior  can  only  be  ob- 
tained by  a  dark,  narrow  staircase  in 
the  thiclmess  of  the  wall."  *    Over  the 
N.  door  is  an  inscription  in  Persian, 
which  may  be  translated  as  follows : — 
"  Heaven  remained  amazed  at  the  ele- 
vation of   this   building;  it  was  as 
though  another  heaven  arose  from  the 
earth.    From  this  Garden  the  Garden 
of  Paradise  derived  its  verdure.   Every 
pillar  in  it  is  as  graceful  as  a  cypress 
tree  in  the  Garden  of  Purity.    From 
the  apex  of  the  Sky  came  a  voice 
declaring  its  date.   This  heart-delight- 
ing building  is  the  Monument  of  Tdj  i 
SuU.dn."  The  last  line  is  a  chronogram, 

*  Mr.  Fergusson  says,  at  p.  561,  "that  Tb- 
xahim  warned  by  the  fate  of  his  predecessor's 
tomb,  commenced  his  own  on  so  small  a 
plan,  116  ft.  sq.,  that  it  was  only  by  oma- 
ment  that  he  could  render  it  worthy  of  him- 
self." 


which  gives  the  date  A.H.  1036=a.d. 
1626.  In  the  Persian,  as  given  by  Dr. 
Bird,  there  are  one  or  two  mistakes,  as 
Magar  for  digar.  Over  the  S.  door  is 
the  following : — 

In  pomp  like  Zubaidah,  and  in  dignity  like 

BaUlis, 
She  gave  lustre  to  the  throne  and  was  the 

crown  of  chastity. 
When  from  this  terrestrial  halting-place  of 

dust 
She  passed  to  tibe  capital  of  Paradise, 
I  asked  the  Sage  the  date. 
He  said,  Til^  i  Sul$4n  has  become  an  inhabit 

taut  of  Eden. 

The  last  line  is  a  chronogram,  and 
gives  the  date  A.H.  1083«=a.d.  1633. 
Over  the  same  door  is  inscribed, — 

[Translation,'] 

To  the  beauty  of  completion  this  work  of  the 

Mausoleum  was  brought  by  Malik  Sandal.* 
T^j  i  SulUn  issued  orders  for  this  Rozah, 
At  the  beauty  of  which  Paradise  stood  amazed. 
He  expended  over  it  l^  Ukhs  of  huns, 
And  900  more. 

Here  too  are  2  mistakes  in  Dr.  Bird'd 
Persian.  The  Hiin  being  3J  rs.,  the 
total  expense  was  Rs.  627,250.  When 
Aurangzib  besieged  Bljdpilr  in  1686, 
he  took  up  his  quarters  in  the  Ibrahim 
Bo^ah,  which  received  some  damage 
from  the  BljApilr  guns.  These  injuries 
were  partially  repaired  by  the  RdjA  of 
Sdtdrd,  but  the  edifice  was  more  com- 
pletely restored  by  the  English  Go- 
vernment. For  further  information 
respecting  this  exquisitely  beautiful 
building,  refer  to  Mr.  Fergusson's 
"History  of  Architecture."  It  need 
only  be  added,  that  the  double  arcade 
of  the  Mausoleum,  which  is  the  finer 
building  of  the  two,  surpasses  aU  de- 
scription; and  especially  when  seen 
by  moonlight  it  will  make  an  impres-^ 
sion  on  the  beholder  that  will  never 
be  forgotten.  Next  to  the  Bozah 
1050  ft.  to  the  N.,  is  an  Tdgdh, 
and  600  ft.  N.  of  that  is  a  building 
called  Samshabi  Ashas,  and  1700  ft. 
to  the  N.W.  of  that  again  is  the  Mau- 
soleum of  Amin  Sd^ib.  These  build- 
ings are  all  in  decay,  and  will  not  re- 
pay the  trouble  of  a  visit.    KhawAs 

*  The  tomb  of  this  personage  is  at  Tikota, 
13  m.  W.  of  the  Makksili  Gate. 


Sect.  II. 


Jioiite  7. — Bijdpilr. 


211 


Khan's  tomb,  which  is  now  used  as 
the  T.  B.y  is  that  of  the  traitor  who 
admitted  Auraogzlb.  It  is  74  ft.  3  in. 
high  from  the  inside  floor  line  to  the 
top  of  the  dome  inside.  The  lower 
story  is  octagonal.  The  descendant 
of  KhawAs  Kh^n  is  an  illiterate  old 
man,  who  is  hereditary  deshmukh  of 
Bijdpilr.  He  lives  at  the  Tillage  of 
Gankl.  The  tomb  of  the  Pir  or  Saint 
of  Khawds  Khdn,  whose  name  was 
*Abdu'rBaz4k,  is  likeKhawds  Ehdn's, 
only  that  the  lowest  story  is  square. 
It  is  45  ft.  in  diameter,  Interior  mea- 
surement ;  and  from  the  clerestory 
pHU-apet  to  the  floor  is  36^  ft. 
The  dome  is  nearly  complete,  not 
stunted,  and  springs  from  a  band  of 
lozenge-shaped  leaves.  The  passage  of 
the  clerestory  is  2  ft.  10  m.  broad, 
and  at  that  point  the  diameter  of  the 
dome  is  35  ft.  Bigam  Sdhibah,  whose 
tomb  is  near  it,  was  one  of  Anrangzib's 
wives.  The  remains  of  this  tomb  are 
in  an  inclosure  250  ft.  sq.,  with  places 
to  lodge  travellers  on  each  side,  and 
the  ruins  of  a  platform.  According  to 
Ghuldm  I^usain  Sd^ib  Bdngi,  who  is 
one  of  the  oldest  inhabitants  of  Bljd- 
piir,  there  used  to  be  a  marble  screen 
here,  which  was  destroyed  by  the  Ma- 
rdthas  somewhat  less  than  100  years 
ago.  The  position  of  the  Bigam's 
tomb  is  rather  doubtful,  and  the  de- 
scription of  it  given  in  a  former  ac- 
count of  Bljdpur  corresponds  rather 
to  the  tomb  of  I^dji  Hasan,  which 
is  near  the  'Alipiir  Gate.  The  tomb 
of  'Abdu^r  Bazdk  is  a  large  build- 
ing, now  much  decayed ;  near  it 
to  the  S.  is  that  of  Kishwar  Kh4n, 
whose  father,  Asad  Ehdn,  is  repeatedly 
mentioned  by  the  Portuguese.  He 
founded  the  fort  of  Dhdnir,  in  the  time 
of  'All  'Adil  Shdh  I.,  and  was  taken 
and  put  to  death  by  one  of  the  Nip^dm 
ShdM  kings.  All  these  minor  places 
may  be  visited  by  the  traveller  in  the 
morning  that  he  returns  from  Ibrahim 
Bozah.  In  the  evening  he  may  visit 
the  JSurj  i  Sharxah  or  "Lion  Bastion," 
so  called  from  being  ornamented  by 
2  lions'  heads  in  stone.  This  bastion 
is  1500  ft.  S.  of  the  Shdhpiir  Gate.  On 
the  right-hand  side  as  you  ascend  the 
steps  of  the  bastion  there  is  an  inscrip- 


tion, which  may  be  translated  as  fol- 
lows : — 

In  the  time  of  the  King  'All  'A'dil,  victorious 
over  infldels. 

To  whom  God  granted  a  splendid  victory  for 
the  sake  of  Murtazi, 

Through  the  fortunate  endeavours  of  Maivi> 
hall  Shih  in  5  months, 

This  bastion,  such  as  you  see  it,  was  built 
with  strong  foundations  like  a  solid  moun- 
tain, 

An  unseen  voice  from  heaven,  said  with  i>er- 
fect  gladness,  the  date  of  the  year  of  the 
unequalled  Lion  Mocque  was  "ft'om  high 
heaven,"  a.h.  1079= a.  d.  1668. 

On  the  top  of  this  bastion  is  a  huge 
gun,  called  the  Malik  i  Maiddn,  <*  Lord 
of  the  Plain."  *  It  is  14  ft.  long,  of 
blue  metal ;  but  the  circumference  the 
whole  way,  from  breech  to  muzzle,  is 
15  ft.  1  in.  The  diameter  of  the  bore 
is  2  ft.  4  in.  Just  above  the  touch- 
hole  is  the  following  inscription : — 

The  work  of  Muhammad  Bin  Husain  Rumi. 

At  the  muzzle  is  the  following  : — 

The  servant  of  the  family  of  the  Prophet  of 
God,  Abii'l  Olidzi  mi^xxi  Shlih,  956. 

At  the  muzzle  is  also— - 

In  the  SOth  year  of  the  exalted  reign, 

A.H.  1097,  ShAh  'A'lamgir,  conqueror  of  infi- 
dels. King,  Defender  of  the  Faith, 

Conquered  B^jdpi^,  and  for  the  date  of  his 
triumph. 

He  falfilled  what  justice  required,  and  an- 
nexed the  territory  of  the  ShAhs, 

Success  showed  itself,  and  he  took  the*  Malik 
i  MaidAn. 

The  metal  of  the  gun  takes  a  very 
high  polish,  and  is  said  to  be  the  same 
as  that  of  Gongs,  which,  in  the  "Annals 
of  Philosophy"  for  Sept.,  1813,  p.  208, 
is  declared  to  be  an  alloy  of  80*427 
parts  of  copper  to  19'573  parts  of  tin. 
On  the  5th  of  Jan.,  1829,  the  gun  was, 
by  the  Kdj4  of  S&t^4's  orders,  charged 
with  80  lbs.  of  coarse  powder  and  fired. 
The  inhabitants  of  the  city  deserted 
their  houses  in  alarm,  but  the  result 
of  the  explosion  did  not  justify  their 
terror.  The  report  was  loud,  but 
nothing  came  of  it.  400  ft.  to  the  E, 
of  the  Sharzah  Burj  is  a  strange  build- 
ing, called  the  Uparl  Burj,  or  Upper 
Bastion.    You  ascend  by  an  outside 

*  The  muzzle  of  this  gun  is  wrought  in  the 
shape  of  a  dragon's  mouth. 

P  2 


212 


Route  7. — Slwldpur  to  Bijdpdr, 


Sect.  IT. 


staircase,  52  steps,  when  you  come  to 
a  Persian  inscription. 

\Tra7islatUm,'\ 

In  the  time  of  Ibrahim  ShAh '  A'dU  Shih,  Protec- 
tor of  the  World,  ^  ,  ^.  . 

This  bastion  was  built  as  Fate  directed,  bemg 
constructed  by  HAidar  Khin. 

O  God  I  May  the  King  of  the  World  and  his 
Deputy  be  fortunate  I 

Tlie  Moon  which  is  in  the  bastion  of  exaltation 
is  like  the  Sun,  ^    ^    ^,      ,      „  , 

Its  date  comes  txom  this.  The  Ixastlon  is  called 
by  the  name  of  Q^dar. 

The  lion's  bastion  rises  to  the  sky  to  the  re- 
splendent sun. 

The  Upari  Burj  is  61  ft.  3  in.  high ; 
18  more  steps  lead  to  the  summit, 
which  is  round  ;  and  here  are  2  guns 
made  ol  bars  welded  together  with 
iron  bands.  The  larger  is  30  ft.  3  in. 
long,  and  has  a  diameter  of  2  ft.  5  in. 
at  the  muzzle,  and  3  ft.  at  the  bi-eech  ; 
the  bore  is  12  in.  in  diameter.  The 
other  gun  is  19  ft.  8  in.  long,  with  1  ft. 
diameter  at  the  muzzle,  and  1  ft.  6  in. 
diameter  at  breech ;  the  bore  is  8J  in. 
in  diameter.  On  returning  from  the 
Uparl  Burj,  the  Tdj  BAoli  or  "  Crown 
Well "  may  be  visited,  adjoining  which 
is  the  principal  bAzir.  This  well  is 
100  yds.  E.  of  the  Makkah  Gate.  The 
E.  wing  of  the  faQade  of  the  well  is 
partly  ruined.  Two  flights  of  4  and  8 
steps  lead  down  to  an  arch  of  34  ft. 
2  in.  span,  and  about  the  same  height. 
In  the  centre,  under  the  front  of  the 
arch,  is  a  vase  with  a  Tulsl  plant  grow- 
ing in  it  with  the  emblem  of  MahAdeo. 
The  tank  at  the  water's  edge  is  231  ft. 
2  in.  sq.  The  water  comes  partly  from 
springs  and  partly  from  drainage,  and 
is  30  ft.  deep  in  the  dry  weather.  The 
level  of  course  sinks  during  the  hot 
season,  and  is  then  approached  by 
side  stairs.  There  are  many  fish  in  it. 
During  the  famine  the  people  lived  on 
the  ground  around  it  for  the  sake  of 
the  water.  There  is  no  inscription, 
and  no  great  beauty  of  design.  Colonel 
Sykes  states  that  it  was  built  by  Malik 
Sandal  in  SultAn  Muliammad's  reign ; 
but  according  to  Dr.  Bird  it  was  the 
work  of  the  V4zir  of  Sul^An  Muham- 
mad, who  is  called  by  that  writer 
Senid-iil  Miilk,  in  which  name  there 
are  several  mistakes.  In  the  arcade 
to  the  right  of  the  well  remark  the 


curious  roof,  the  rafters  of  which  are 
of  stone.  The  W.  wing  of  the  arcade 
is  now  the  office  of  the  Civil  autho- 
rities. The  Makkah  Gate  to  the  W.  is 
now  the  Mdmlatd^r's  Kacheri,  and  is 
generally  kept  closed.  Here  are  the 
police  lines  and  the  prison.  A  gnn 
10  ft.  long,  of  blue  metal,  with  a  dra- 
gon's head,  lies  outside,  and  inside  is  a 
10-inch  mortar,  with  the  weight  of  the 
shot  inscribed  in  Mar^thi.  On  either 
side  of  the  gate  there  is  a  representa- 
tion of  2  lions  trampling  on  an  ele- 
phant. 

Hitherto  the  traveller  has  been  ex- 
amining the  W.  part  of  the  city  and 
suburbs  ;  on  the  next  day  he  will  pro- 
ceed to  the  E.,  as  &r  as  the  'Alipiir 
gate,  and  then  turn  N.  past  the  P^d- 
$hdpi!ir  gate  for  500  ft.,  when  he  will 
come  to  the  mausoleum  of  Sultan 
Muhammad,  7th  King.  The  total  dis- 
tance from  the  T.  B.  is  about  1|  m. 
This  magnificent  structure  is  generally 
called  the  Grol  Gumbaz,or  Round  Dome, 
but  it  is  also  called  Bol  Gumbaz,  which 
is  said  to  mean  "  Topless  Dome,"  and  by 
some  it  is  styled  Gul  Gumbaz,  or  "  Rose 
Dome."  Mr.  Fergusson,  in  his  "  Hist, 
of  Arch.,"  p.  662,  says  of  this  building  : 
"  The  tomb  of  his  successor,  Ma^miid,* 
was  in  design  as  complete  a  contrast 
to  that  just  described  as  can  well  be 
imagined,  and  is  as  remarkable  for 
simple  grandeur  and  constructive  bold- 
ness as  that  of  Ibrahim  was  for  exces- 
sive richness  and  contempt  of  con- 
structive proprieties.  It  is  constructed 
on  the  same  principle  as  that  employed 
in  the  design  of  the  dome  of  the  great 
mosque,  but  on  so  much  larger  a  scale 
as  to  convert  into  a  wonder  of  con- 
structive skill  what,  in  that  instance, 
was  only  an  elegant  architectural 
design."  This  structure  is  built  on  a 
platform  600  ft.  sq.  and  2  high.  In 
front  is  a  Nakdr  Kh&nah,  94  ft.  from 
S.  to  N.  and  88  ft.  from  E.  to  W.  The 
Mujdwir,  or  keeper,  gets  4  Rs.  a 
month,  and  lives  in  the  second  inclo- 

*  This  king  is  called  at  B^jdpi^r  itself  Mu- 
hammad, but  the  ATord  Mahmi^d,  which  signi- 
^  "  praiseworthy,"  occurs  in  the  2nd  inscrip- 
tion, q.  V.  He  is  called  Ma^mM  in  a  paper 
mentioned  in  the  "  Indian  Antiquary,"  vol.  ii. 
p.  2282.  His  name  was  Muhammad  Mahi- 
miid. 


Sect.  11. 


Boute  7. — Bijdp^r. 


213 


sure,  which  is  deformed  with  unsightly 
mud  huts.  At  each  comer  of  the 
mausoleum  is  a  tower  7  stories  high, 
besides  the  dome.  Mr.  Molecey  thinks 
these  towers  were  added  as  supports. 
They  are  very  much  cracked  in  places. 
Each  side  of  the  building  is  196  ft. 
long,  outside  measurement.  The 
square  room  over  which  the  dome  is 
raised  is  the  largest  domed  room  in 
the  world,  being  136  ft.  sq.  Briggs' 
book  of  Feb.,  1866,  makes  it  134  ft. 
3  in.,  which  is  an  error.  Over  the  en- 
trance are  three  inscriptions.  The  1st 
is  '*  Sul];4n  Mnl^ammad,  inhabitant  of 
Paradise,  1067."  The  next  is,  "  Mu- 
hammad, whose  end  was  commend- 
able, 1067,"  and  the  3rd  inscription 
is,  "  Muhammad,  became  a  particle 
of  heaven,"  (lit.  House  of  Salvation), 
1067."  The  date,  3  times  repeated, 
is  A.D.  1656.  The  fa9ade  presents 
3  lofty  arches,  springing  from  the 
pavement,  and  supporting  several  feet 
of  plain  lime- work  and  plaster,  above 
which  is  a  cornice  of  grey  basalt  and 
a  TOW  of  small  arches  supporting  a 
second  line  of  plain  work,  surmounted 
by  a  balustrade  6  ft.  high.  The  base 
of  the  middle  arch  is  of  grey  basalt, 
the  others  are  of  stonework  and 
plaster.  The  comer  towers  or  minarets 
are  12  ft.  broad,  and  are  entered  by 
winding  staircases  and  terminate  in 
cupolas.  Each  story  has  7  small 
arched  windows,  opening  outwardly 
and  looking  into  the  court  below, 
while  the  8th  admits  a  passage  for  the 
circular  stair.  From  this  there  is  an  en- 
trance to  a  broad  ledge  surrounding 
the  dome,  which  is  so  large  that  a 
carriage  might  pass  round  it.  This 
passage  rests  on  supports,  inclining 
inwards  in  curves  like  half  arches. 
The  internal  area  of  the  tomb  is  18,226 
sq.  ft.,  while  that  of  the  Pantheon  at 
Rome  is  only  15,833.  "  At  the  height 
of  57  ft.  from  the  floor  line,"  says  Mr. 
Fergusson,  "the  hall  begins  to  con- 
tract by  a  series  of  pendentives  as  in- 
genious as  they  are  beautiful,  to  a 
circular  opening  97  ft.  in  diameter. 
On  these  pendentives  the  dome  is 
erected,  124  ft.  in  diameter."  "  In- 
temally,  the  dome  is  175  ft.  high  ;  ex- 
ternally, 198  ft.,  its  general  thickness 


being  about  10  ft."  Inside  the  dome, 
and  outside  too,  are  iron  rings,  and 
two  brothers  named  'Umr  and  ^asan, 
ascended  inside  to  the  ring  in  the 
centre,  whence  they  dropped  a  line. 
Outside  on  the  parapet  is  a  fine  view 
over  Bijdpiir.  On  your  left  as  you 
turn  your  back  to  the  dome,  you  see 
*Allpiir  to  the  E.,  and  on  the  other 
side,  to  the  W.,  Ibrahim  Ko^ah  and 
the  fjpari  Burj  and  the  Sharzah  or  Lion 
Bastion  are  distinctly  visible,  and 
beyond  them,  at  4  m.  to  the  W.,  is 
the  wall  of  a  new  city,  which  the 
ministers  of  Ibrahim  II.,  father  of 
Sul];4n  Muhammad,  began  to  build,  but 
the  attempt  was  abandoned  as  un- 
lucky. Had  it  been  continued,  the 
legendary  demensions  of  the  city,  30 
m.  circumference,  might  have  been 
justified  by  fact.  About  1  m.  W.  of 
the  Gol  Gumbaz  one  sees  the  ruins 
of  what  were  the  villages  of  the 
masons  and  painters  employed  on  the 
mausoleum.  There  is  a  small  annex 
to  the  N.  without  a  roof,  built  by 
ISult^n  Muhammad  for  his  mother, 
Zuhrd  §A^ibah,  from  whom  one  of  the 
suburbs  was  called  Zuhrdpiir.  This 
building  is  defaced  by  a  low  ugly 
wall,  built  by  the  MarA^has,  which 
ought  to  be  removed.  The  cemenn 
covering  of  the  dome,  which  is  a  foot 
thick,  has  fallen  on  the  N.  side  and 
carried  away  the  ornamental  coping. 
The  rain  now  comes  in. 

Below  the  dome  is  the  tomb  of  Sul- 
f.An  Muhammad  in  the  centre.  To  the 
left,  facing  the  spectator,  are  the  graves 
of  his  youngest  wife  and  of  the  son  of 
'Ali  'A'dU  Shdh  II. ;  on  the  right,  are 
those  of  his  favourite  dancing  girl 
Rhambd,  his  daughter,  and  his  eldest 
wife  mentioned  by  Bemier,  vol.  ii.  p. 
22 1 .  The  ascent  at  the  left-hand  comer 
to  the  parapet  and  gallery  is  by  160 
steps.  If  a  person  whisper  softly  at 
one  point  of  the  gallery,  he  will  be 
heard  most  distinctly  at  the  opposite 
point.  There  is  also  a  good  triple 
echo. 

The  JAm'i  Masjid,  about  2,200  ft.  W. 
of  the  Gol  Gumbaz,  is  the  J4m'i  Mas- 
jid or  Cathedral  Mosque  of  BijApiir. 
The  N.  side  of  the  quadrangle  is  323 
ft.  3  in.  from  the  inner  wall  of  the  W. 


214 


Boute  7. — Sholdp'dr  to  Bijdpur. 


Sect.  11. 


side  to  the  edge  of  the  platfonn  on  the  ' 
K.  The  E.  side  has  a  wall  and  a  gate- 
way, but  is  unfinished ;  Mr.  Fergusson 
says,  p.  659,  *^  Even  as  it  is,  it  is  one  of 
tJie  finest  mosqaes  in  India."  In  the 
centre  is  a  hauz  or  reservoir,  now  dry. 
The  arcades  on  the  N.  and  S.  sides  of 
the  quadrangle  are  31  ft.  3  in.  broad. 
Including  arcades,  the  court  is  237^ 
ft.  broad  from  N.  to  S.  Over  the  W. 
arch  is, — 

Allah 
Mul^ammad 

.  aiclar 
Abii  Bakr 

•Umr 
'Usman. 
« 
The  Mil^rdb,  which  marks  the  place 

on  the  W.  to  which  the  people  turn 
in  prayer,  is  gilt  and  ornamented 
with  much  Arabic  writing,  but  there 
is  also  a  Persian  quatrain,  which  may 
thus  be  translated — 

Rest  not  in  the  Palace  of  Life,  for  it  is  not 
secure, 

None  can  rest  in  a  building,  which  is  not 
meant  to  endure, 

Fair  in  my  sight  seems  the  World's  halting- 
place, 

A  sweet  treasure  is  Life,  but  'tis  gone  without 
leaving  a  trace. 

This  Arch  was  built  in  the  time  of  the  reign  of 
Sultdn  Muljiammad  ShAh. 

The  date  1045  is  in  the  inner  centre 
of  the  arch  -  A.D.  1635.  Dr.  Bird 
gives  the  date,  of  the  structure  as 
A.H.  943=A.D.  1536,  according  to  the 
following  chronogram — 

Enter  the  Mosque  of  the  Sultan,  whose  end 
was  happy, 


which  would  be  in  the  reign  of  *A11 
'Adil  Shdh.  Mr.  Fergusson  says  that 
the  building  was  commenced  by  'All 
'Adil  Shdh  (1557—1579),  and  though 
continued  by  his  successors  was  never 
completely  finished.  If  it  had  been 
completed  it  would  have  covered  from 
50,000  to  55,000  sq.  ft.,  and  would 
have  been  the  size  of  a  mediaeval  ca- 
thedral. Each  of  the  squares  into 
which  it  is  divided  has  a  domed  roof, 
beautiful,  but  so  flat  as  to  be  concealed 
externally.  12  of  these  squares  are 
occupied  by  the  great  dome,  which  is 
57  ft.  in  diameter,  but  stands  on  a 
square  of  70  ft.    There  is  another  in- 


scription, which  translated  says,  "  Ya- 
kilt  DAbiUi  was  the  servant  of  the 

• 

shrine,  and  the  slave  of  Sult;4n  Ma- 
bammad  Sh4h.  May  God  perpetuate 
his  sublime  shadow  1  a.h.  1045= A.D. 
1 635.' '  The  pavement  below  the  dome 
is  of  chunam,  divided  by  black  lines 
into  numerous  squares  called  mumUds 
or  compartments  for  persons  to  pray 
on,  imitating  the  mufalld  or  prayer- 
carpet  which  the  faithful  carry  with 
them  to  the  mosques.  These  were 
made  by  order  of  Aurangzib  when  he 
carried  away  the  velvet  carpets,  the 
large  golden  chain  and  other  valu- 
ables belonging  to  the  Mosque.  Mr. 
Molecey ,  the  architect  who  has  been  in 
charge  of  the  buildings  here,  states 
that  the  sJdltr  or  ornament  at  the  top 
of  the  mosque  was  filled  with  a  sort  of 
grain  called  rurd  to  give  it  weight. 
N.  of  the  JAm'i  Masjid  700  ft.  is  Kha- 
wds  KhAn's  home,  and  about  1100  ft. 
W.  of  that  and  parallel  with  it  is  Yd- 
]fM  Ddbiill's  mosque,  500  ft.  to  the  S. 
of  which  is  NiiwAb  Mu§t;afa  KhAn's 
mosque,  all  of  which  places  may  be 
visited,  though  they  do  not  call  for 
special  description.  Mu^t^fa  KhAn 
iGrdistdnl  was  a  distinguished  noble- 
man at  the  court  of  'All  'Adil  Sh&h, 
and  was  murdered  in  A.D.  1581  by 
Eishwar  KhAn,  who  usurped  the  re- 
gency in  the  time  of  Ibrahim  'ildil 
ShAh  II.  700  ft.  to  the  N.W.  of  his 
mosque  is  the  palace  of  the  AsAr  i 
Sharif,  "illustrious  relics,  which  are 
hairs  of  the  Prophet's  beard."  It  is 
a  large  heavy  looking  building  of  brick 
and  lime,  and  is  close  to  the  moat  of 
the  inner  fort  and  in  the  centre  of  its 
E.  rampart.  One  enters  first  a  veran- 
dah or  portico  60  ft.  high,  supported  by 
the  trunks  of  gigantic  trees,  now  pro- 
tected with  planks.  This  portico  is 
36  ft.  broad,  and  looks  upon  a  tank 
250  ft.  sq.,  the  mud  of  which  was 
cleared  out  by  labourers  as  one  of  the 
works  during  the  famine,  and  the 
water  now  looks  clear.  Passing  througjh 
the  verandah  you  come  out  into  an  open 
space,  and  see  at  100  ft.  to  the  W.  a 
row  of  subordinate  buildings.  From 
this  is  the  best  view  of  the  Gol  Gum- 
baz,  as  the  distance  diminishes  the 
impression  of  its  excessive  bulk.    The 


Sect.  11. 


Itoute  7. — JBiJdpur, 


215 


ceiling  of  the  verandah  or  portico  has 
been  very  handsomely  painted.      On 
the  right  of  the  staircase  by  which  you 
ascend  to  the  upper  rooms,  is  a  suite 
of  apartments,  in  the  first  of  which 
are  cases  for  books.    They  contained 
MSS.  of  some  value,  which  were  sent 
by  Sir  B.  Frere  to  Bombay.     He  also 
preserved  the  portico  by  building  a 
gigantic  square  prop  and  also  an  arch 
with  a  sharp  point,  which  has  an  in- 
congruous look  beside  the  old  arches, 
which  are  broad    and    but    slightly 
curved.     Bemark  here    a  very  fine 
piece  of  ruddy  marble  with  shells  im- 
bedded in  it,  which  is  in  one  of  the 
arches  of  the  portico.    The  main  flight 
of  steps  ascended  here  is  broad,  and 
leads  to  a  hall  81  ft.  4  long  and  27  ft. 
4  broad.    After  mounting,  you  pass 
into  an  upper  verandah  or  ante-cham- 
ber to  the  right,  the  ceilings  and  walls 
of  which  have  been  gilt.    The  doors 
are  inlaid  with  ivory,  and  in  the  palmy 
days  of  BijApiir  the  effect  must  have 
been  very  striking.    In  the  N.  wall  is 
a  cabinet  in  which  the  sacred  hair  is 
kept,  and  this  is  opened  only  once  a 
year.    You  now  pass  to  the  S.  into  2 
rooms  beautifully  painted  with  vases 
of  flowers.    All  these  rooms  were  de- 
faced and  spoiled  by  the  Mardthas. 
The  Edjd  himself  is  said  to  have  set 
the  example  in  scraping  off  the  gilding, 
and  his  followers  imitated  him  only 
too  well.    They  picked  out  the  ivory 
that  inlaid  the  doors,  and  otherwise  so 
injured  the  rooms  as  to  reduce  this 
once  splendid  palace  to  the  state  of  an 
unsightly  bam.  This  happened  partly 
under  the  Peshwds,  and  partly  when 
the  English  transferred  BijApiir  to  the 
Raja  of   Satdrd.     The  A§dr  i  Sharif 
formerly  communicated  with  the  cita- 
del by  means  of  a  bridge,  of  which 
nothing  now  remains  excepting  the 
pillars,  and  succeeded  to  the  honour 
of  holding  the  precious  relics  of  the 
Prophet  aSter  a  similar  building  within 
the  citadel  had  been  burned  down. 
Following  the  edge  of  the  ditch  to  the 
S.W.  the  traveller  will  come  to  a  mas- 
sive square  tower  called  the  CJuitra 
Ganj,  which  is  one  of  14  such  built  by 
Afzal  Khdn,  who  met  his  death  at  the 
hands  of  Shivajl,  the  founder  of  the 


Mardtha  empire.     These,  which  are 
contrivances  for  giving  impetus  to  the 
water  of  an  aqueduct,  were  built  in 
the  time  of  Mu1;^ammad  Shdh  to  supply 
the  city.    There  is  an  inscription  on 
this  tower  as  follows: — "  Be  it  known 
to  the  executors  of  ornamental  arts, 
the  architects  of  important  works,  and 
to  celebrated   living  workmen,  that 
Af^al    Khdn    Muhammad    Shdhf,   a 
nobleman  of  good  fortune,  the  present 
commander-in-chief,  the  first  in  rank 
of  the  Dakhan    lords,   the   religious 
destroyer  of  infidelity,  on  whom  de- 
scends  Qod's  favour,  whom  heaven 
pronounces  to  be   the   most  accom- 
plished  and    excellent^    and   whose 
name,  like  God's  praise,  is  resounded 
from  every  quarter,  saying,  it  is  ex- 
cellence, did,  after  much  labour,  and 
by  order  of  Mul|^ammad  Shdh  Ghdzi 
(the  exalted  in  dignity,  whose  C09rt  is 
like  that  of  Sulaimdn,  and  whose  gloiy 
is  as  the  sun),  render  this  aqueduct 
conspicuous  (calling  it  by  the  name 
of  Muhammad  Nidd,)  for   the  con- 
venience of  God's  people,  so  that  who- 
soever should  have  a  thirsty  lip  might 
have  his  heart  filled  and  satisfied  at 
this  water,  whilst  his  tongue  would  be 
moist  in  praying  that  this  sovereignty 
of  the  king,  the  asylum  of  the  uni- 
verse, may  abide  for  ever,"    A.H.  1063 
s=A.D.  1652.    The  unfinished  tomb  of 
'AH  'Adil  Shdh  H.  is  to  be  seen  to  the 
W.  of  the  Agdr  i  Sharif,  and  on  the  N. 
of  the  citadel.    It  is  a  noble  ruin  of  7 
large  Gothic-looking  arches,  construc- 
ted on  a  terrace  15  ft.  high  and  more 
than  200  ft.  sq.    Had  not  the  death  of 
the  Sultdn  put  a  stop  to  its  progress 
and  prevented  the    addition   of   an 
upper  story,  in  conformity  vnth  the 
original  design,  it  would   have  sur- 
passed every  other  building  at  Bijdpi!ir, 
both  in  magnificence  and  beauty. 

The  Ark  or  atadeh—Aboxit  1,400  ft 
to  the  S.W.  of  the  Asdr  Ma^all  is  the 
citadel  gate,  and.  here  the  walls  are 
thick  with  pillars  and  sculptured 
stones,  taken  from  Jain,  temples  which 
probably  stood  on  this  spot  when  the 
Mul^ammadans  stormed  the  citadel. 
Having  demolished  these  idol  temples, 
the  conquerors  used  many  of  the 
stones  in  rebuilding  the  walls.     The 


216 


JRoute  7. — Sholdpur  to  Mjdpur, 


Sect.  IL 


rest  they  carried  75  yds.  to  the  N.W. 
and  put  them  together  again  in  dis- 
orderly combination  so  as  to  form  a 
new  temple,  which  by  the  Mil^rdb  or 
arch  towards  the  Kiblah  or  point  of 
prayer  is  shown  to  have  been  used  as 
a  mosque.  At  the  distance  of  70  yds. 
from  the  gateway,  you  pass  to  the  left 
under  a  low  roof,  and  have  on  your 
left  a  small  mound  called  the  Ganj  i 
Shahiddn,  or  "  Store  of  Martyrs,"  in 
which  the  Muslims  who  fell  in  the 
assault  were  buried.  You  are  now  in 
front  of  the  first  Jain  temple,  conver- 
ted into  a  mosque,  with  12  pillars,  9  ft. 
6  high,  in  a  row,  the  rows  being  7  deep, 
the  total  number  of  pillars  being  there- 
fore 84.  There  is  a  central  Mandap 
or  Hall,  2  stories  high,  the  inner  room 
being  8  ft.  8  sq.,  and  the  outer  or  sur- 
rounding room  25  ft.  2  sq.,  inclusive  of 
the  inner.  At  the  N.  side,  about  the 
centre  row,  notice  a  wonderfully  hand- 
some and  elaborately  carved  black 
pillar,  and  to  the  N.E.  of  it  an  ancient 
Kanarese  inscription.  On  several  of 
the  pillars  around  are  inscriptions,  some 
in  Sanskrit  and  some  in  Kanarese. 
Pass  now  about  200  yds.  to  the  N.  and 
you  come  to  the  Anand  Ma1;iall  or 
"  palace  of  joy,"  where  the  ladies  of 
the  seraglio  lived.  In  a  line  with  it 
to  the  W.  is  the  Gagan  Mal|;iall  or 
"  heavenly  palace,"  the  N.  face  of 
which  has  3  magnificent  arches.  The 
span  of  the  central  arch  is  66  ft.  6, 
and  that  of  each  of  the  side  arches 
17  ft.  lOi.  The  height  of  all  3  is  the 
same,  about  50  ft.  The  ruins  of  these 
palaces  are  extremely  picturesque,  but 
the  ground  is  thickly  clothed  with 
coarse  grass  and  shrubs,  1  yd.  or  so 
high,  where  one  might  easily  step  on  a 
cobra  or  a  tic  prolonga.  The  buildings 
have  cellars,  the  ab(Se  of  porcupines, 
which  are  very  numerous  here,  and  are 
caUed  Sdrgd.  Holes  scraped  by  these 
animals,  and  their  fallen  quills,  are  to 
be  found  everywhere.  Dogs  are  some- 
times killed  by  being  transfixed  with 
the  quills.  About  150  yds.  to  the  N.E. 
is  the  second  Jain  temple,  and  the 
same  distance  to  the  N.W.  is  the  un- 
finished tomb  of  'AH  'Adil  Shdh,  men- 
tioned above,  which  is  little  more  than 
a  series  of  ruined  arches.    The  second 


Jain  temple  has  10  rows  of  pillars  7 
deep.  The  Mi^rdb  in  it  shows  the 
Mu^ammadans  used  it  as  a  mosque. 
At  200  yds.  to  the  S.W.  of  this  is 
a  building  called  the  S&t  Ehandi  or 
"  Seven  Stories,"  a  pleasure  palace 
for  the  ladies,  from  the  top  of  which 
thej'  could  overlook  the  whole  city, 
being  themselves  unseen.  It  formed 
the  N.E.  corner  of  a  vast  building 
called'  the  Granary,  which  was  proba- 
bly the  public  palace  of  the  kings, 
where  their  public  and  private  au- 
diences were  held.  From  this  the 
moat  of  the  citadel  is  crossed  by  a 
causeway  140  ft.  long,  but  the  average 
breadth  of  the  moat  may  be  taken  as 
150  ft. 

Mihtar*8  Mosque.-^IOOO  ft.  to  the 
S.E.  of  the  entrance  into  the  citadel 
is  the  MihtarMaliall.  Observe  in  going 
to  it,  2  gigantic  stone  posts  of  a  gate- 
way with  a  carved  beading.  Each 
post  is  10  ft.  long  and  3  thick.  This 
small  but  elegant  structure  is  3  stories 
high,  and  has  minarets  at  the  comers 
and  ornamental  carving  in  soft  clay 
stone  about  its  windows.  Dr.  Bird,  in 
his  paper  in  the  Bom.  As.  Soc.  Joum., 
vol.  i.,  p.  376,  has  given  a  lithographic 
view  of  this  mosque.  It  may  be  ob- 
served in  explanal^on  of  its  name,  that 
when  the  Hindiistanl  language  arose 
in  the  Urdii,  or  camp,  of  the  Mughul 
emperors,  the  Persian  soldiers  gave 
nicknames  to  various  persons,  which 
took  their  place  in  the  language  :  thus, 
a  tailor  was  called  Khalifa,  "  Caliph ; " 
a  waterman  was  called  Bihishtl,  "  an 
inhabitant  of  Paradise  ; "  and  a 
sweeper,  the  lowest  of  the  low,  was 
called  Mihtar,  "  a  prince."  The  story 
is  that  Ibrahim  Shdh  had  a  disease 
which  his  physicians  could  not  cure, 
and  the  astrologers  told  him  that  his 
only  chance  was  to  give  a  large  sum 
to  the  first  person  he  saw  next  morn- 
ing. The  king  looked  out  of  the 
window  very  early  and  saw  a  sweeper, 
on  whom  he  bestowed  a  vast  sum,  and 
the  poor  fellow,  not  knowing  what  to 
do  with  it,  built  this  mosque.  Mr. 
Fergusson  says  of  this  structure — 
"Perhaps  the  most  remarkable  civil 
edifice  is  a  little  gateway,  known  as 
the  Mihtar*s  Mahall,  'the  gate  of  thA 


Sect.  II. 


Soute  8. — Bombay  to  Goa, 


217 


sweeper,'  with  a  legend  attached  to  it ' 
too  long  to  quote.    It  is  in  a  mixed  { 
Hindii  and  Muhammadan  style,  every  ' 
part  and  every   detail  covered  with  > 
ornament,  but  always  equally  appro- : 
priate  and  elegant.     Of  its  class  it  is  , 
perhaps    the    best    example    in  the 
country,  though  this  class  may  not  be 
the    highest."     With  regard  to  this 
passage    it  must  be  remarked    that 
the     Arabic    word    Mahall    cannot 
signify  gateivay,  it  signifies  building, 
seraglio,  palace;     however,  in   maps 
drawn  on  the  spot,  the  structure  is 
called   the   Mihtar's  Mosque,  though 
there  is  nothing  to  make  one  think 
that  it  was  built  for  religious  purposes.  | 
Observe  in  returning  to  the  T.  B.,  to 
the  left  as  you  turn  from  it  to  the 
Mihtar's  Mosque,  2  enormous  tamarind 
trees.    The  larger  is  47  ft.  9  in.  in  cir- 
cumference, the  lesser,  36 ft.  6  in.  The 
Fatlji  Gate  in  the  centre  of  the  S.  wall 
of  the  city  is  that  by  which  Aurangzlb 
is  said  to  have  entered.    It  must  be 
said  that  an  idea  has  been  entertained 
of  making  BijApiir  the  capital  of  the 
Collectorate  instead  of  Kaladgi,  and 
of  using  the  abundant  water  in  the 
moat  round  the  citadel  to  irrigate  the 
neighbouring   grounds,  turning  them 
into  a  garden  or  a  park. 

Routs  to  Kcdadgi  and  Bdddmi. — It 
might  so  happen  that  the  traveller 
would  wish  to  visit  Bdddmi  from  Ka- 
ladgl,  instead  of  going  round  by , 
Belgdon  and  Dhdrwdd.  A  full  de-  \ 
scription  of  Bdddmi  will  be  found  in 
a  {rnbsequent  Route,  and  therefore  a 
veiy  brief  account  only  is  here  given 
of  the  route  by  Kaladgi. 


From 


From 

To 

Distance. 

M.      F. 

1 

Brought  forward 

38      0 

'  ^usain  Sahib's 

Sonagii     . 

3       i 

Darg^h 

Sonaga        .    . 

Baulatti      .    . 

4      4 

iBaulatti  . 

Kiindragi. 

2      1 

Kuudragi     .    . 

Kaladgi       .    . 

6      5 

Kaladgi    . 

Kattikeri . 

14      5 

Kattikeri     .    . 

BMdmi       .    . 
Total     . 

11      2 

81       3 

itei»Mirfc».-The  road  is  good,  but  water  Ijad 
and  scarce  to  Mulwar,  where  there  are  4  good 
wells.  The  3  stations  mentioned  after  the 
Futhi  Gate  are  very  small  villages. 

At  Baril  Garsingi  water  is  plentiftil.  Kol.ir 
is  a  large  village  on  the  N.  bank  of  the 
Krifflipa  river.  Two  basket  boats  ply  on  the 
terry  here.  The  other  places  are  small  vil- 
lages, and  Kaladgi  is  a  small  town  and  canton- 
ment on  the  Gatparba  River,  which  is  120  yds. 
wide,  and  2  ft  deep  in  December. 

The  road  at  Kaladgi  is  very  ba<l  and  heavy, 
with  sand  in  the  latter  part.  6  small  villages 
are  passed  ou  the  way. 


Shahpur  Suburb 
Fat^  Gate 
Jumnal       .    . 
Wandkar  . 
Mulwar       .    . 
Ronial 

Chhojii  Garsingi 
Ba]*d  Garsingi 
Kolar  .        .    . 
Baloti      . 
Bargaudi     . 


L 


To 

Distance. 

M. 

F. 

Fat^^  Gate 
Jumnal       .    . 

1 

4 

0 
0 

Wandkar  Halll 

6 

2 

Mulwar    . 

6 

3 

Ronial         .    . 

6 

3 

Chho^A  Garsingi 
Bani  Garsingi  . 
KoUr 

0 
0 
3 

6 

Baloti  .        .    . 

4 

0 

Bargandl . 
Husain  Sd^ib's 

5 
1 

4 
0 

Dargih 
Carry  forward 

38 

6 

ROUTE  8. 

BOMBAY  TO  GOA. 

The  best  and  easiest  way  of  visiting 
Goa  is  to  embark  at  Bombay  on  board 
one  of  the  British  India  Steam  Naviga- 
tion Company's  steamers,  and,  leaving 
Bombay  Harbour  about  6  p.m.,  the  tra- 
veller will  reach  Ratnagiri,  123  m.,  at 
11.40  next  morning.  The  bay  here  is 
tolerably  sheltered  from  the  N.E.  and 
S.,  but  to  the  "W.  and  S.W.  it  is  quite 
open.  It  is  possible  that  the  traveller 
might  like  to  stop  at  Ratnagiri,  a  de- 
scription of  which  is  appended.  Rdjd- 
piir  and  Vijayadurg  are  also  places 
worth  a  visit,  as  is  Mdlwan,  and  the 


218 


Boute  8. — Bombay  to  Goct. 


S6Ct  II. 


overland  route  to  them  is  accordingly 
here  given  : — 


Names  of  Places. 

Distances 
in  Miles. 

1 
Stages. 

K. 

F. 

M.    r. 

Ratnagiri,  b.p.o.  . 

1 

3i 

Rajw441    .       .       .    . 

0 

5 

X  KaUndA  r. 

0 

3 

Bh&tea      .        .        .     . 

0 

»i 

A  well  and  dh. 

2 

H 

A  well  and  dh. . 

1 

6 

A  well  and  dh. 

;    0 

4 

Paved  descent .        .    , 

2 

u 

X  r.  to  Golai) 

0 

5 

X  n 

1 

^ 

. 

X  r.       ,        .        ,        , 

0 

2 

Panwas     .... 

0 

1 

11    7i 

X  n.  and  r.  to  Maulanga 

3 

0 

^ 

X  n 

2 

4i 

X  r.  to  Bhar 

0 

n 

Binl 

5 

6i 

11    4^ 

X  MuchVmdi  r.     . 

0 

H 

m 

Asoll         .        .        .    . 

0 

2* 

Ascend  hill  to  a  temple 

1 

8 

X  r.  to  Kotapur   . 

1 

6 

X  n 

0 

4 

Gliotna. 

8 

3 

X  n.          .        .       .    . 

1' 

2 

X  r.  to  Raijapur    . 
X  Suknadir.    .       .    . 

8 

3 

12    1 

0 

H 

Satidli   .... 

8 

3} 

Judtl         .... 

8 

4 

X  Kaiiwir.   . 

4 

0 

Kabiirli  (hence  visit  Vi- 

jayadurg,  Viziadroog) 

0 

^ 

X  n 

2 

3 

PAtagAon  .... 

0 

5i 

15    1 

JambhAu 

5 

6 

X  8eo  r.  110  yds.  broad 

0 

^ 

Bdgk      .        .        .        . 

0 

4 

Chandosi  .        ... 

1 

H 

Walandi 

2 

H 

SirgAon  Wadi    .        .    . 

1 

6 

X  Mithbasr. 

1 

H 

SAlsi 

1 

n 

15    0 

X  n 

0 

H 

X  Banii  r. 

1 

6 

Barni     .... 

0 

44 

X  n 

0 

4i 

X  n 

o 

5 

X  n.  with  steep  banks . 

1 

H 

X  n.  to  Wai-oni     . 

0 

H 

X  Harnf  r.        ... 

1 

'4 

X  Gadr. 

1 

0 

Santnil     .       .        .    . 

0 

^h 

10    4} 

X  n.  rd.  to  MAlwan     . 

0 

6 

Ratnagiri  {Rutnaglierry  *). —  This 
place  is  the  principal  civil  station  in 
the  S.  Konkan.  A  small  detachment  of 
troops  is  usually  stationed  at  it.  The 
town  is  large  and  open,  facing  the  sea. 
There  are  two  small  bays  formed  by  a 
rock  on  which  the  fort  is  built.  There 
is  neither  shelter  nor  good  anchorage, 

*  Ratuaguiry  of  Grant  Duff. 


as  the  bay  is  completely  exposed,  and 
the  bottom  is  hard  sand  with  rock.  With 
any  breeze  from  the  W.  there  are  heavy 
breakers  on  the  bar  at  the  entrance  of 
the  river,  and  boats  cross  it  only  at  the 
top  of  high  water.  The  landing  place 
for  boats  is  on  the  S.  of  the  fort,  near  a 
small  tank,  close  to  high- water  mark. 
The  cantonment  lies  on  the  N.  of  the 
town.  Batnagiri  has  its  name  from  a 
demon  named  Batndsur,  who  was  killed 
by  an  incarnation  of  Shiva  called  Ndth, 
or  Jotibd,  who  is  worshipped  at  a  fa- 
mous temple  near  Eolhdpilir.  There  is 
probably  some  historical  foundation  for 
this  legend,  and  Ratnagur  may  be  re- 
garded as  a  king  of  the  aborigines 
killed  by  some  .^^an  leader.  Other- 
wise the  word  might  be  translated 
"  Hill  of  Gems,"  from  Skr.  ratjuini,  '^a 
jewel,"  and  giHh,  «  hill."  This  is  a 
pretty  town  hid  in  palm  trees,  with  a 
hill  fort  to  the  N.  on  a  hill  which  juts 
into  the  sea,  once  a  stronghold  of  the 
Mar&thas.  The  principal  thing  of  in- 
terest here  to  the  tourist,  however,  is 
the  Tdrli,  or  "  Sardine  "  fishing,  which 
is  pretty  to  witness,  independently  of 
epicurean  considerations.  Fleets  of 
canoes  may  be  seen  putting  out  for 
these  fish  in  January  and  February. 
Three  men  are  required  in  each  canoe, 
two  to  paddle  and  one  to  cast  the  net. 
The  attitudes  of  the  men  engaged  in 
casting  the  nets  are  beautiful,  and  dis- 
play their  fine  athletic  figures  to  ad- 
vantage. They  stand  in  the  bows  of 
the  canoes,  leaning  slightly  forward, 
with  the  nets  gathered  up,  the  head 
turned  back  over  the  shoulders,  and 
with  eyes  glancing  keenly  around  in 
search  of  the  shoal.  The  fish,  which  is 
most  delicious,  is  caught  in  such  num- 
bers that  a  single  net-caster  will  fill  his 
canoe  in  the  course  of  the  morning,  as 
many  as  50  fish  being  taken  at  a  single 
cast,  and  quantities  of  the  fish  are  used 
to  manure  the  rice  fields.  At  these 
times  the  deep-sea  fishing  is  entirely 
neglected.  The  fishing  is  within  a 
short  distance  of  the  shore,  just  outside 
the  breakers,  and  can  be  carried  on 
only  when  the  water  is  sufficiently 
clear  to  admit  of  the  fish  being  readily 
seen.  In  calm  weather  the  water  is  as 
clear  as  crystal ;  and  it  is  a  beautiful 


Sect.  II. 


SoiUe  8. — Rdjdpur — Vijayadurg. 


219 


sight  at  such  times  to  watch  the  waves 
breaking  on  the  sands,  which  seem 
literally  of  pearls,  while  the  fleet  of 
canoes  is  shooting  hither  and  thither 
among  the  bright  waters,  with  a  fisher- 
man standing  in  the  bow  of  each 
boat  in  a  picturesque  attitude,  like  a 
piece  of  Grecian  sculpture.  The  back- 
ground of  this  picture  is  formed  by 
a  fishing  Tillage,  with  many  boats 
drawn  up  on  the  beach,  nets  drying 
on  the  sand,  huts  nestled  among  groves 
of  cocoa-nut  and  other  trees,  and  the 
old  fort  of  Batnagiri  frowning  over 
them. 

•  The  KaXiTida  r.,  just  beyond  Ratna- 
giri,  is  never  fordable  except  at  neap 
tides,  but  is  crossed  in  boats.  The  r. 
and  n,  at  Golap  are  likewise  unfordable 
at  high  water.  P&nwas  is  a  small 
straggling  village,  with  a  few  temples ; 
Maulangd  a  good  sized  village  ;  Bhar 
and  JBifii  mere  hamlets.  Not  far  from 
Bini  is  a  pretty  fishing  village  called 
Sangameshwar,  where  2  rivers  meet, 
with  steep  hills  all  round,  and  scenery 
as  attractive  as  can  be  found  in  the  S. 
Konkan.  There  is,  also,  at  no  great 
distance  a  tirth.oT place  of  pilgrimage, 
of  some  celebrity,  called  wSdawddL 
Here  is  a  shrine  of  Ganpati,  which 
draws  from  Government  a  revenue  of 
1,200  rupees  per  annum.  A  spring  of 
fine  water  oozes  from  the  rock. 

Jldjdjmr, — This  is  a  very  flourishing 
place,  and  a  great  emporium,  there 
being  good  roads  to  Kolhdpiir  and 
Belgdon,  and  the  Suknadi  river,  on 
which  the  town  is  situated,  being  navig- 
able for  vessels  of  450  khandis.  The 
exports  are  cloth,  ^7*t,  and  pepper,*  and 
the  imports  dates,  dried  fruits,  and  iron. 
There  are  about  1000  families  resident, 
exclusive  of  strangers,  who  are  very 
numerous.  A  considerable  quantity 
of  oil  is  made  here  from  the  sesamum 
and  the  cocoa-nut.  The  manner  of 
extraction  is  somewhat  primitive.  The 
trunk  of  a  large  tree  forms  the  mortar, 
and  a  branch  the  pestle,  which  is  made 
to  revolve  by  a  buffalo,  driven  by  a 
man.  One  such  apparatus  extracts  20 
sirs  of  oil  from  sesamum,  or  40  from 
cocoa-nut,  daily.  The  town  of  Rajdpiir 

•  "  Oriental  Christian  Spectator,"  April,  1834. 


is  some  miles  up  the  first  creek  met 
with  to  the  N.  of  Vijayadurg,  Still 
higher  up  the  creek,  and  about  1  m. 
above  the  town,  on  the  L  b.  of  the  r.,  is 
a  hot  spring,  which  gushes  from  a  cow's 
head  carvS  in  stone,  at  the  base  of  a 
hill  about  100  ft.  high,  which  joins  with 
the  general  range  of  the  Eonkan.  The 
mouth  of  the  spring  is  8  in.  in  diameter. 
The  colour  of  the  water  is  dark,  and  it  is 
strongly  mineral.  According  to  the 
natives  its  temperature  never  varies. 
Major  Wingate  on  the  morning  of  the 
21st  of  July,  1860,  found  it  to  be  109  % 
and  Dr.  Wilson  states  that  it  boils  an 
egg  easily,  and  that  the  water  is  too 
hot  for  bathing.  It  appears  to  be  a 
similar  spring  to  those  at  M^h^r,  Dd- 
bhul,  and  other  places  in  this  direction. 
On  the  hUl  above,  about  half  a  mile 
further  on,  are  14  singular  intermittent 
springs,  which  are  reported  to  flow  only 
during  a  part  of  the  year.  They  com- 
mence in  December  and  Januaiy,  but 
not  simultaneously,  and  continue  flow- 
ing for  several  months,  when  the  water 
diminishes,  and  at  last  disappears. 
This,  however,  does  not  appear  to  be 
the  invariable  course,  as  in  1849  they 
did  not  flow  at  all,  and  at  other  times 
all  or  some  of  them  have  flowed  at  un- 
certain intervals.  A  small  well  or 
cistern  has  been  built  around  each 
spring,  but  when  the  spring  is  in  full 
flow  die  water  passes  this  barrier.  The 
temperature  of  the  water  in  one  of 
these  wells  was  found  by  Major  Win- 
gate  to  be  84  *. 

Vfjayadurg  (Viziadroog).  —  From 
KaMrli  or  Mdjapur  it  is  an  easy  jour- 
ney of  some  12  m.  to  visit  the  ancient 
fort  of  Vijayadurg,  "  fort  of  victory  ; " 
or  Gheriah  as  it  is  called  by  some 
English  writers,  the  word  being  merely 
a  corruption  of  garki^  "  fort."  This 
place  has  some  historical  interest  at- 
taching to  it.  having  been  captured  by 
the  great  Olive  (then  Oolonel  Olive)  and 
Admiral  Watson,  on  the  13th  of  Feb., 
1756.  The  whole  affair  was  extremely 
characteristic  of  those  times,  when  the 
ideas  of  honourable  procedure  were  al- 
most as  lax  among  the  English  as 
among  the  Mardthas.  A  British  arma- 
ment, consisting  of  8  ships  of  the 
line,  one  of  50,  and  another  of  44  guns, 


220 


Eoute  8. — Bomhay  to  Ooa, 


Sect  II. 


with  several  armed  vessels  belonging 
to  the  Bombay  marine,  having  on  board 
800  English  soldiers  and  1000  Sipdhls, 
sailed  from  Bombay  early  in  February, 
to  reduce  Vijayadurg,  the  stronghold  of 
the  piratical  chief  Tiilajt  Angria.  They 
were  to  co-operate  with  the  PeshwA's 
troops  under  Khandaji  M4nkar,and  the 
fruits  of  success  were  of  course  to  be 
shared.  But  a  committee  of  10  officers, 
of  which  Admirals  Watson  and  Po- 
cocke,  Mr.  Hough  and  Colonel  Clive 
were  members,  had,  before  leaving 
Bombay  harbour,  agreed  to  share  all 
the  prize  property  taken,  without  any 
recognition  of  the  Mardtha  claims  to  a 
portion.  When  the  English  fleet  ap- 
peared, Angria  repaired  to  the  Ma- 
ra^ha  camp  to  negotiate  for  a  surrender. 
The  English  pronounced  this  an  in- 
fraction of  the  terms  of  alliance, 
though  on  what  grounds  it  is  difficult 
to  see.  Admiral  Watson  attacked  the 
sea-face  of  the  fort  on  the  12th  of 
February,  while  Clive,  the  same  night, 
landed  with  the  troops,  so  as  to  cut  ofl: 
any  communication  between  the  Ma- 
rd^as.and  the  garrison.  The  Mardtha 
general  endeavoured  to  bribe  Mr. 
Hough  to  get  the  Admiral  to  suspend 
operations ;  and,  failing  in  that,  he 
olfered  to  Captain  Andrew  Buchanan, 
commanding  the  picquets,  a  bill  on 
Bombay  for  80,000  rupees,  to  permit 
him  with  a  few  men  to  pass  into  the 
fort.  The  bribe  was  rejected  ;  but  the 
Bombay  Government  were  so  struck 
with  the  singular  honesty  of  their  offi- 
cer, that  they  presented  him  with  a 
gold  medal  in  consideration  of  his  ex- 
traordinarily good  behaviour.  The  fort 
surrendered  on  the  13th,  when  the 
captors  decided  that  the  Mardthas  had 
no  right  to  share,  and  divided  the  prize 
property,  amounting  to  £100,000, 
among  themselves.  Tiilajl  Angria  was 
taken,  put  in  irons,  and  imprisoned  in 
one  of  the  Peshwd's  hill  foits  near 
Rdigaj-h.  A  few  months  after  the  fort 
was  given  up  to  the  Peshwd,  and  did 
not  revert  to  the  English  till  1818. 
Vijayadurg  is  one  of  the  few  good  har- 
bours on  the  W.  coast  of  India.  The 
anchorage  is  landlocked,  and  sheltered 
from  all  winds.  There  is  no  bar  at  the 
entrance,  the  depth  being  fi'om  7  to  6 


fathoms,  and  from  4  to  3  inside  at  low 
water.  The  rise  of  the  tide  is  about 
7  ft.  The  fort  is  in  good  preservation, 
and  is  one  of  the  finest  specimens  of  an 
Indian  fortress  to  be  seen  in  the  W. 
Presidency.  It  has  a  double  wall,  with 
flanking  towers,  protected  by  ditches. 
There  is  a  well  of  sweet  water  inside, 
and  also  a  large  tank,  the  bottom  of 
which  is  said  to  have  been  lined  with 
lead.  The  English  batteries  were  on 
the  N.  side  of  the  creek  about  1200  yds. 
oif,  too  distant  to  have  done  much 
damage.  The  wall  on  that  side  has 
many  shot  marks,  but  there  is  no  indi- 
cation of  a  breach  or  other  sefiou» 
injury.  There  is  a  large  temple  within 
a  mile  of  Vijayadurg,  which  is  very 
picturesquely  situated  at  the  bottom  of 
a  ravine,  and  is  worth  a  visit.  Angria's 
dock  is  2  m.  to  the  E.  of  Vijayadurg, 
and  is  merely  a  wet  dock  with  a  ma- 
sonry entrance.  It  has  no  gates.  The 
entrance  was  probably  built  up  on 
the  admission  of  a  vessel,  and  the 
water  afterwards  drained  off  to  the 
level  of  low  tide,  when  the  re- 
mainder was  pumped  out,  or  allowed 
to  evaporate. 

Pdtg&on  is  a  village  of  moderate  size, 
with  a  large  temple,  near  which  is  good 
ground  for  encamping.  After  leaving 
this  place  other  temples  will  be  passed 
at  Tamltdn,  Beyond  this  is  the  Seo 
river,  which  is  fordable  at  low  water. 
Three  small  boats  are  kept  for  crossing 
at  other  times.  The  bed  of  the  r.  is 
sand  and  mud.  The  places  between  it 
and  JScUsi  are  small  hamlets.  SdlH  it- 
self is  a  village  of  moderate  size,  with 
two  temples  so  large  as  to  be  capable 
of  accommodating  a  regiment.  The 
Mithbds,  or  "  sweet-smeUing  "  river, 
has  bad,  stony,  and  difficult  banks. 
Beyond  Barni  the  country  becomes 
very  jungly.  The  Harni  and  Gad 
rivers  are  crossed  in  boats,  but  the 
latter  is  fordable  in  the  fair  season. 
Santrul  is  a  small  village  with  some 
temples,  near  which  is  good  encamping 
ground.  At  the  first  n.  after  passing 
it,  is  a  very  small  hamlet,  and  here  a 
road  branches  off  to  Mdlwan,  which 
is  a  large  place,  with  a  population  of 
10,000.  Good  iron  ore  is  found  here, 
an  account  of  which,  and  of  the  smelt- 


Sect.  TI. 


Route  8. — Old  Goa. 


221 


ing  process  will  be  found  in  the  Bom. 
As.  Jour,  for  1844,  p.  436.  The  fort, 
called  also  Sindidurg^  was  built  by 
Shivaji  in  1662.  In  1756  it  was  taken 
by  Major  Gordon  and  Commodore 
Watson,  and  called  Fort  Aujipistus,* 
but  was  next  year  restored  to  the  Bdjd 
of  Kolhdpi!ir,  and  finally  ceded  to  the 
English  in  1812.  It  stands  on  an 
island,  which  is  low,  and  at  a  little 
distance  not  distinguishable  from  the 
mainland. 

Supposing  the  traveller  not  to  land 
at  Ratnagiri,  but  to  go  on  at  once  in 
the  steamer  to  Goa,  he  will  reach  Vin- 
gorlen,  199  m.  from  Bombay,  about 
9  P.U.,  and  here  the  steamer  will  stop  ^ 
an  hour.  Goa  roadstead  will  be  reached 
at  2  A.M.,  the  whole  voyage  taking 
32  hours.  The  port  of  Goa  is  formed 
by  the  high  headland  point  of  Aguado 
to  the  N.,  and  Marmagdon  Point  to 
the  S.  The  steamer  anchors  just  to  the 
S.  of  Aguado  Point,  and  thence  to  Goa 
the  traveller  must  proceed  in  a  boat. 
If  he  should  have  interest  sufficient  to 
obtain  the  use  of  the  Governor's  barge 
with  14  rowers  and  a  coxswain,  he  will 
go  up  with  comparative  ease  and 
rapidity.  Otherwise,  should  there  be 
a  strong  wind  or  a  high  swell,  it  will 
not  be  so  pleasant.  Supposing  that  he 
leaves  the  steamer  at  3  A.M.  he  will 
come  abreast  of  the  hospital  at  Nova 
Qoa  in  an  hour,  and  in  )  hour  more  he 
will  be  at  the  hotel.  Should  he,  how- 
ever, proceed  to  Kaibandar,  he  will 
probably  not  disembark  before  5  A.M.  ; 
for,  although  Raibandar  is  not  more 
than  6  m.  from  Aguado  Point,  it  takes 
2  hours  to  do  the  distance,  as  the  cur- 
rent is  very  strong.  There  is  no  hotel  at 
Baibandar,  but  there  are  one  or  two 
good  houses,  such  as  that  of  the  Ba- 
ronne  de  Combargna,  where  a  tra- 
veller might,  perhaps,  be  introduced. 
A  carriage  will  be  found  indispensable, 
as  Old  Goa  is  3  m.  E.  of  Raibandar, 
and  there  is  some  stagnant  water  on 
the  road,  the  smell  of  which  is  most 
fetid  and  very  likely  to  give  fever,  so 

*  Grant  Duff,  vol.  iii.  p.  99.  In  the 
"Selections  from  the  Records  of  Bombay," 
vol.  X.  N.S.,  p.  3,  it  is  stated  that  it  was  the 
Fort  of  R6ri  (Rairee),  the  name  of  which  was 
so  changed. 


that  it  will  be  as  well  to  pass  the  spot 
with  all  speed. 

Old  Goa.  —  The  first  expedition 
should  be  to  the  church  of  Bom  Jesus, 
where  S.  Francois  Xavier  is  buried  ; 
and  his  tomb  is  the  thing  most 
worth  seeing  in  Goa.  The  road  is  ex- 
cellent, and  leads  along  the  water's 
edge  first  through  Raibandar,  and  then 
along  the  ruined  gardens  of  Old  Goa, 
whose  mouldering  buildings  are  de- 
serted by  all  but  priests.  The  facade 
of  the  church  of  Bom  Jesus  is  hand- 
some, and  is  93  ft.  4  in.  high,  and  77  ft. 
broad,  from  N.  to  S.  You  turn  a  little 
to  the  right  to  reach  it.  It  is  decorated 
with  8  columnar  pilasters,  2  close  toge- 
ther on  either  side  being  in  the  centre, 
and  2  wide  apart  on  either  side  of 
these.  This  facade  is  of  the  natural 
dark  colour  of  the  laterite,  while  the 
sides  are  whitewashed.  Near  the  top 
of  the  facade  is  a  coat-of-arras,  and  the 
letters  I.H.S.  Internally  the  church 
is  199  ft.  10  in.  long  from  W.  to  E. 
Fonseca  says  *  that  the  facade  is  78  ft. 
high,  and  75  ft.  g  in.  broad.  He 
makes  it  internally  55^  ft.  broad,  and 
61  ft.  \  in.  high,  and  182  ft.  long.  The 
church  was  finished  on  the  24th  of 
Nov.,  1594,  and  consecrated  on  the 
15th  of  May,  1605.  On  one  of  the  pil- 
lars supporting  -the  choir  is  in- 
scribed :— 

Hanc  Ecclesiam  Jesu  solemni  ritu  conse- 
cravlt  reverendissimus  et  illustrissimns 
Dom  D.  Alexius  Menesius,  Archiepiscopus 
Goensus  Indi»  Primus,  a.d.  HDCV.  Id.  Ma. 
(15th  of  May,  1605). 

On  a  wall  near  the  side  door  on  the 
N.  is  inscribed  : 

Sepultura  de  Dom  Hieronimo  Masuarenhes, 

'Capita©  Quefre  de  Cochin  e  Onnuz  e  a  cuja 

custa  se  fez  esta  Igreja;  em  gratificaQ&o  a 

Companhia  de  Jesu  che  dedicilo  este  logar. 

Falecio  no  anno  de  1593. 

At  the  S.  end  of  the  transept  of 
the  church  is  an  exquisite  screen, 
and    under  the  principal   arch   is  a 

*  "An  Historical  and  Archeeological  Sketch 
of  the  City  of  Goa,  preceded  by  a  short  Statis- 
tic^ Account  of  the  Territory  of  Goa,  written 
with  the  authorization  of  Government,  by 
Jo86  Nicolau  da  Fonseca,  Pres.  of  the  So- 
ciedad  dos  Amigos  das  Literas."  Bombay-: 
Thacker  and  Co.,  1876. 


222 


Eoute  8. — Bombay  to  Goa, 


Sect.  II. 


silver  image  4]  ft.  high,  value 
£300,  given  by  the  relict  of  Urban 
Darezo.  The  pedesti^  is  inscribed  as 
follows : — 

Sanctissimo  Indiarum  Apostolo 

Francisca  de  Sopranio  Patritia  Genuenses 

Urbani  Daritii  olim  uxor 

Nunc  Maria  Francisca  Xavieria 

In  celeberrimo  Incamationis  Monasterio 

Christi  Sponsa 

Peregrino  Celesti, 

Peregrin!  Amoris  votum  et  monumentum. 

P.P.  Anno  Domini  1670. 

Over  the  S.  door  is  a  picture  5  ft. 
4j  in.  by  4  ft.  ^  in.,  v^ith  the  inscrip- 
tion : — 

Dimidium  cemis  quern 

Magnum  suspicit  orbis 

Xavierest;  lotum 

Nulla  tabella  capit. 

It  is  a  picture  of  S.  Francis  Xavier. 
The  face  is  of  a  vigorous  and  rather 
handsome  man,  taken  at  the  time  he 
left  Europe,  at  the  age  of  41.  The 
tomb,  which  is  all  of  the  finest  marble, 
was  given  by  the  Grand  Duke  of  Tus- 
cany. It  is  so  very  dark  at  this  spot, 
that  the  bronze  tableaux  on  the  tomb 
can  be  made  out  only  vnth  great  diffi- 
culty. There  are  2  lithographs  of  it, 
and  one  of  the  Saint  himself,  in  the 
"  Resumo  Historico  de  S.  Francisco  Xa- 
vier," por  Jos^  Manuel  Braz  de  Sa. 
Nova  Goa.  Imprensa  Nacional,  1878. 
The  tomb  is  divided  into  3  oblong  com- 
partments, the  last  of  which  supports 
the  silver  coffin  that  contains  the  body. 
The  lowest  plinth  is  of  jasper  4|  ft. 
high,  19^  ft.  long,  9^  ft.  broad  ;  the 
second  plinth  is  also  of  jasper,  h\  ft. 
Mgh,  114  ft.  long,  and  5^  ft.  wide. 
This  plinth  has  in  the  centre  of  each 
side  a  bronze  plate  with  angels  in  ala- 
baster. The  plate  on  the  W.  side  re- 
presents the  saint  baptizing  in  the 
Moluccas  ;  that  on  the  N.  side  repre- 
sents him  preaching  to  the  natives — 
"  Ut  vitam  habeant."  The  plate  on  the 
S.  side  represents  the  saint  crossing  a 
river  on  a  raft,  to  escape  savages — 
**  Nihil  horum  vereor."  On  the  E. 
side,  which  is  at  his  head,  the  apostle 
is  represented  expiring  among  his  dis- 
ciples, and  surrounded  by  angels,  and 
the  sun  is  setting,  with  the  motto, 
"  Major  in  occasu."  The  3rd  plinth 
is  placed  to  receive  the  silver  coffin ; 


it  is  9|  ft.  long,  ^  ft.  broad,  and  2  ft. 
high.  The  railing  is  of  red  jasper.  On 
the  top  is  the  coffin  of  silver,  6|  ft. 
long,  2^  ft.  broad,  and  3^  ft.  high,  ex- 
clusive of  the  lid,  which  is  1^  ft. 
Above  is  the  cross,  2^  ft.  high.  Two 
angels  :  one  near  the  head,  holds  the 
heart,  with  a  halo  over  it ;  the  other 
says,  "Satis  est  Domine,  satis  est." 
The  coffin  weighs  600  silver  marks, 
each  of  the  value  of  £1.  13«.  ^d. 
Total  equal  £600,  but  now  worth 
£788.  On  the  sides  of  the  coffin  are 
32  pictures,  referring  to  various  pas- 
sages in  the  life  and  death  of  the 
saint. 

The  pictures  on  the  coffin  are : — 
1st,  The  saint  vrith  bare  head  and 
feet;  2nd,  not  visible  ;  3rd,  Visited 
by  Jerome  in  hospital  of  Vicentia; 
4th,  Vision  in  hospital  at  Rome ; 
6th,  Vision  seen  by  his  sister ;  6th, 
The  saint  saving  the  son  of  D.  Pe- 
dro Mascarenhes  ;  7th,  The  saint  rais- 
ing a  rich  man ;  8th,  He  baptises 
idolaters ;  9th,  He  restores  a  drowned 
boy  at  Cape  Kum^ri ;  10th,  He  cures 
a  sick  man ;  11th,  He  frightens  the 
Badajas  in  Travankor;  12th,  He  re- 
stores to  life  2  boys  ;  13th,  He  is  shown 
a  treasure  at  Meliapib: ;  14th,  He  effects 
2  cures  in  Malacca ;  16th,  He  restores 
a  crucifix  dropped  into  the  sea  ;  16th, 
Is  shovim  preaching  to  the  natives ; 
17th,  While  preaching  at  Malacca  on 
the  6th  of  December,  1647,  announces 
victory  over  the  King  of  Acheen ; 
18th,  Bestores  2  persons  in  Eh&repa- 
lan ;  19th,  He  aids  a  dying  man  ; 
20th,  He  is  carrying  an  infant  on  his 
shoulders  ;  21st,  He  is  travelling  from 
Amangueli  to  Macao ;  22nd,  Cures  a 
dumb  man  at  Amangueli  ;  23rd,  Cures 
a  deaf  Japanese  ;  24th,  Prays  in  a 
storm  in  the  ship  of  Duiui:e  da  Gama  ; 
26th,  Baptising  3  persons ;  26th,  not 
visible  ;  27th,  not  visible ;  28th,  He  is 
shown  expiring  at  Sanchia;  29th,  He 
appears  to  Catherine  da  Chamez ; 
30th,  His  body  is  shovm  working 
miracles  ;  31st,  not  visible ;  32nd,  not 
visible. 

The  body  is  well  preserved,  but 
shrunk  to  4^  ft. ;  the  4th  and  5th  toes 
are  wanting,  having  been  bitten  off 
by  Isabel  de  Caron,  who  wanted  them 


Sect.  II. 


Route  S.—Old  Goa, 


223 


as  relics.  The  vestments  studded  with 
pearls  were  giyen  by  DoSia  Maria  Sofia, 
wife  of  Pedro  II.  of  Portugal.  On  the 
right  side  is  his  staff,  with  194  eme- 
ralds, and  a  medallion  inscribed  :  **  D. 
Francisc.  Xayier,  Indies  Apost.  et  in 
Orienti,  An.  MDCXCIX."  On  the  re- 
verse is  the  eflSgy  of  Pedro  II.  Near 
the  tomb  are  several  offerings  made  by 
persons  cured  of  diseases.  There  is  a 
silver  leg,  presented  by  Maria  Antonia 
Francisca  Xavier  da  Costa  Campos, 
whose  leg  was  cured  and  straightened, 
26th  Dec.  1859.  The  vestry  is  a  room 
60  ft.  long  by  40  ft.  broad  and  30  ft. 
high,  with  armoires  all  round,  topped 
with  pictures  of  saints.  The  vestments 
are  very  rich,  with  gold  embroidery. 
At  the  tomb  are  4  silver  lamps,  weigh- 
ing 1524  ^^B.  The  body  of  the  saint  has 
usually  been  exhibited  once  a  year, 
but  it  is  said  that  this  exhibition  will 
not  take  place  in  future,  as  the  body  is 
now  so  slmvelled  and  decomposed.  In 
the  vestry  is  the  following  inscrip- 
tion : — 

Sepultura  de  Balthazar  da  Viegas,  a  cuja 
custa  se  fez  esta  Sachrista,  a  Compaiihia  de  J. 
em  gratiAcaQ&o  desta  bom  obra,  e  cle  outras  que 
fez  k  esta  caza,  che  dedicam  este  logar  para 
seu  Jazigo.    Faledo  a  14  de  Janeiro  de  1659. 

On  returning  from  the  church  just 
described,  the  traveller  may  stop  at 
the  Powder  Factory,  which  will  be  on 
his  left  as  he  comes  back  to  Bai- 
bandar. 

Over  the  door  is  the  following  in- 
scription : — 

Reinado  Portugal  o  Gatholico 

Rei  Dom  Felipe  8^  mandou 

a  Cidade  fazor  toda  a 

Fahrica  desta  Caza  da 

Polvera  do  Dinheiro  de 

hum  por  cento  sendo  Vizo- 

Rei  deste  Estado,  Dom 

Francisco  da  Gama,  Conde 

Almirante,  o  qual  a  prin- 

cipio  adcabou  aposni 

perfercare  em  que  ora 

estfto  Vizorei  Dom  Miguel  de  Noronha, 

Conde  de  Llnhares,  a.d.  1030. 

There  is  a  fine  spring  of  water  here, 
and  a  pretty  garden.  There  is  also  a 
warehouse  with  a  few  pounds  of  pow- 
der, over  which  a  sentinel  keeps  wateh. 
The  next  visit  will  be  to  the  church  of 
6.  Cajetan,  which  is  ^  of  a  m.  to  the 


N.N.B.  of  Bom  Jesus.  The  facade  is 
of  red  laterite,  whitewashed.  The 
church  is  the  best  preserved  in  Old 
Goa.  It  stands  near  the  ruins  of  the 
Viceroy's  Palace,  and  was  built  by  the 
Friars  of  the  iTheatines,  and  finished 
22nd  Maxch,  1655.  It  is  121  ft.  long, 
and  81  ft.  broad.  The  facade  looks  to 
the  W.,  and  has  5  bastard  Corinthian 
pilasters  on  either  side  of  the  portal. 
It  has  2  low  towers,  and  in  the  centre 
of  the  church  is  a  cupola.  Gemelli 
Careri  says,  it  is  in  imitation  of  S.  An- 
drea de  la  Vella  at  Rome.  According 
to  others,  it  is  a  copy  of  the  Basilica 
of  St.  Peter's  at  Rome.  Over  the 
threshold  is  "  Domus  mea,  domus  ora- 
tionis."  The  nave  and  2  aisles  have 
each  3  altars.  Under  the  beautiful 
cupola  is  a  well  (see  "  Or.  Christian 
Spectator,"  vol.  5,  p.  119).  The  Baron 
de  Candol,  Tavaras  de  Almeida,  and 
Viscount  Sergio  de  Souza,  Governors  of 
Goa  in  1840, 1877,  and  1878,  are  buried 
in  this  church.  The  facade  is  98  ft. 
3  in.  broad  from  N,  to  S.,  and  80  ft. 
high.  The  towers,  which  are  20  ft. 
higher,  are  100  ft.  high.  To  speak  with 
precision,  the  interior  of  the  church 
from  the  W.  entrance  to  the  high  altar 
is  123  ft.  long,  to  which  add  8  ft.  for 
the  altar,  and  the  total  length  is  131  ft. 
The  transept  is  from  N.  to  S.  89  ft. 
The  roof  is  supported  by  4  vastly 
massive  columns,  which,  as  it  were, 
divide  the  interior  into  chapels.  There 
are  here  large  pictures  of  the  Bap- 
tism of  Christ  by  John  the  Baptist,  the 
Descent  from  the  Cross,  the  Death 
of  S.  Theresa,  who  is  being  trans- 
fixed with  an  arrow  by  a  boy. 
There  are  some  old  tombs,  one  of 
1709. 

To  the  N.N.W.  of  S.  Cajetan  is  the 
so-called  Arch  of  the  Viceroys,  on  the 
site  of  what  was  in  1510  the  principal 
gate  of  the  city.  The  arch  is  about 
38  ft.  high,  and  the  passage  beneath  is 
16  ft.  high.  Above  this  is  a  row  of 
alternate  globes  and  deer.  The  deer 
refers  to  Vasco  da  Gama,  Gama  in 
Portuguese  meaning  •*deer."  Above 
this  is  a  figure  of  Vasco  in  a  sailor's 
hat  with  the  brim  turned  up.  He 
wears  a  large  fur  cloak,  trunk  hose, 
and  black  bx)ts,  and  is  veiy  squarely 


224 


Route  8.—  Bomhay  to  Goa, 


Sect.  II. 


built.  Above  him  is  S.  Catherina. 
Patroness  of  Goa.  The  arch  faces  the 
N.  and  is  about  100  ft.  S.  of  the  river. 
Over  the  figure  of  Vasoo  da  Gama  is 
inscribed  : — 

Reinado  de  El  Rei  D.  Felipe  1", 

Posa  Cidade  de  aqui  Dom 

Vasco   da   Oama,  V*   Conde, 

Almirante,  descobrador 

e  reconquestador  da 

India  sendo  Vizo  Rei  O  Conde  Dom  Francisco 

Da  Gama  seu  bisneto. 

O  anno  D.  97. 

This  arch  was  built  of  black  stone 
in  honour  of  Vasco  da  Gama.  The 
statue  of  S.  Catharine  is  of  bronze  gilt. 
There  is  also  this  inscription  in  the 
passage  under  the  arch  on  the  left 
hand  as  you  go  to  the  river  on  the 
N.  :— 

Legitime   e   verdadeiro  Rei  D.  Jofto  lY., 
ristoridor  da  Liberdade  Portugueza,  1656. 

Above  the  inscription  is  the  half- 
length  figure  of  a  warrior,  over  whose 
left  shoulder  is  the  Immaculate  Con- 
ception, that  is  the  Virgin  with  the 
half  moon  at  her  feet,  and  to  his  right 
the  crown  and  arms  of  Portugal.  At 
a  little  distance  is  also  the  following 
Latin  inscription : — 

SanctissimsB  conception!  Ma- 

rittt  Joannes  IV.,  Portugalise  Rex 

una  cum  generalibus  comi- 

tiis  se  et  regna  sua  sub 

annuo  censu  tributaria 

publice  dlcavit  atque  dei- 

param  in  imperii  tutela- 

rem  electain  a  labe  origi- 

nali  preservatam  i)erpe- 

tuo  defensurum  jura- 

mento  firmavit  et  ut  vive- 

ret  pietas  Lusitante  hoc 

vivo  lapide  in  memoriale 

perenne  exorari  jussit 
Anno  Christo  MDCLVI  im- 
perii sui  VI. — Esta  escriptura 
por  muito  apagada 
mandou  o  Senado  gravar 
de  novo  e  reparou  este 
Arco  em  1831. 

From  this  place  commenced  tlie  Rua 
Direita,  which  led  from  the  Palace  of 
the  Viceroys  to  the  church  of  Miseri- 
cordia  (see  Linchoten,  Hist,  de  la  Na- 
vegacion,  p.  57,  and  Pyrard,  Voyage, 
part  ii.  p.  30).  Neai*  the  arch  was  the 
Ribeira  des  Gales,  "  Key  of  the  Vice- 
roys," 700  paces  long,  and  200  broad, 


and  covered  with  palm  trees.     Here 
were  the  Bangacal  for  storing  cargo, 
the  Peso  and  Alfondega,  or  Custom 
House,  which  Pyrard  compares  to  the 
Palais  Royal,   The  Palace  of  the  Vice- 
roys, of  which  only  one  small  gate,  10 
ft.  high,  remains,  was  situated  a  little 
S.  of  the  arch  (see  Tavernier,  Les  Six 
Voyages,  vol.  ii.  p.  116).     Here  was  a 
hall  with  pictures  of  ships  since  the 
time  of  Vasco.    This  hall  opened  into 
another,  with  portraits  of  the  Viceroys, 
some  of  whom  returned  to  Portugal 
with  fortunes  of  £300,000.     In  front 
stood  the  High  Court  and  the  Jail, 
which  was  called  Tronco.    The  Cathe- 
dral stands  to  the  S.W.  of  S.  Cajetan, 
in  the  middle  of  the  Rua  Direita.     It 
was  made  a  cathedral  by  a  bull  of 
Paul  III.,  dated  November  3rd,  1534. 
The  body  of  the  church  was  finished  in 
1519.    The  height  of  the  fagade  to  the 
top  of  the  cross  is  llof  ft.,  and  the 
breadth  100*  ft.    The  length  of  the 
cathedral  itself    is  250  ft.,  and  the 
breadth  181|  ft.  external  measurement. 
There  is  one  lateral  tower,  that  to  the 
N.  having  fallen  down  on  the  25th  of 
July,  1776.    There  are  5  bells;   the 
great  bell  was  tolled  at  the  auto  dafL 
The  cathedral  was  called  the  "  Church 
of   S.   Caterina."    It   must   be    said 
that,  though  Fonseca  gives  the  breadth 
of  the  facade  at  lOOf  ft.,  recent  mea- 
surement,  carefully  taken,  makes  ■  it 
108  ft.   8  in.    Externally,  the  style 
of  this  church  is  Tusco-Doric,  and  in- 
ternally, Mosaic-Corinthian.  It  is  said 
to  have  been  begun  in  1511,  but  that 
it  was  rebuilt,  and  that  the  body  was 
finished  in  1619,  and  the  whole  struc- 
ture was  finished  in  1631.    The  inside 
is  divided  into  a  nave  and  2  aisles  by 
6  in-egularly  shaped  massive  pillars, 
which  form  6  arches,  of  which  that 
nearest  the  entrance  is  comparatively 
low,  and  the  furthest  off  very  lofty. 
The  nave  is  72  ft.  high,  and  the  aisles 
574  ft.    The  nave  is  142|  ft.  long,  and 
69|    ft.    broad.      Although    Fonseca 
m^es  the  total  length  of  the  cathedral 
250  ft.,  and  the  breadth  181^  ft.,  re- 
cent measurement  makes  it  273  ft. 
long,  and  137  ft.  9  in.  broad,  but  at  the 
transept  144  ft.    The  entrance  is  by  a 
triple  portal,  and  over  the  central  one 


Sect.  II. 


Rovte  S.—Old  Goa. 


226 


is  a  slab  with  the  following,  in  places 
illegible,  inscription  :— 

Rein**®  o  Mni  Cat"  A  mandaram  ronti- 

Rey  D.  Seb»"  m*<»"  nuar  a  custa 

fazer  esta  S.  se  de  sua  Real  Fa- 

.    .    .    .    o  anno  do  Z^  ate  o  prosente 

8^  de  562  sedo  Q'he  o  Arcebpo  Pri- 

Administradores  niaz  D.  Frey  Fran«<» 

della  OS  ArcebP"  dos  Martyres  e 

Primares  Vizo  Rey  deste 

OS  Catolicos  Reis  seus  Estado 

successores. 

At  the  entrance  are  2  marble  basins 
for  holy  water,  and  a  baptismal  font 
of  blac&  stone,  which  was  in  the  ori- 
ginal edifice.    It  is  inscribed : — 

Esta  pia  mandou  faser  Jorge  Gomez,  e  a 
deo  a  esta  86  em  onra  e  lo  amor  do  Senhor  Deos 
em  1532. 

The  ceiling  is  vaulted,  and  in  the 
chapels  adorned  with  mosaics.  The 
4  chapels  on  the  right  of  the  entrance 
are  dedicated  to  S.  Anthony,  S.  Ber- 
nard, the  Cruz  dos  Milagros,  and  the 
S.  Spirito.  The  cross  of  the  Srdcbapel 
is  20f  ft.  long,  and  is  said  to  have 
grown  to  that  bulk  from  a  small  size. 
In  the  second  chapel  is  a  handsome 
tomb,  with  the  following  inscription : — 

Nesta  Sepultura  estao  os 

Ossos  de  Dona  Leonor,  Mas 

carenhas  segundo  mulher 

De  Francisco  de  Mello  de  Castro, 

Govemador  que  foi  do  Estado 

da  India  tres  vezes  e  a 

terceira  vez  que  govemou 

mandou  fazer  esta 
sepultura  pera  nella  se 
depositorem  os  ossos  da 
data  sua  mulher  a  qual 
fallecio  em  8  de  Maio  de 
684  a  tern  nesta  Capella 
huma  messa  quotidlana. 

The  transept  is  90J  ft.   by  36  ft. 

There  are  3  altars  to  the  right,  1  to 

Nossa  Senhora,  and  2  to  S.  Jos^fo  ;  on 

the  N.  side  is  the  following  inscription 

surmounted    by    an   escutcheon,    in 

which  is  a  skeleton  holding  a  scythe 

and  trampling    on    an   archbishop's 

mitre  : — 

Neste  Mausoleo  estfto  os 
ossos  de  D.  Lefto,  1  Arcebispo* 

de  Goa,  e  de  D.  Fre  Andre 

de  S.  Haria,  Bispo  da  Cochim, 

para  aqui  solemnemente 

trasladadas  do  Conyento 

da  Madre  de  Deos  em 

5  de  Octubre  de  1864. 

Requiescant  in  pace. 

*  Dom  Gaspar  de  Le&o  Fereira,  died  1576. 
IBomhay—lSSO.] 


The  chapels  on  the  left  are — 1.  N. 
Senhora  de  Necessidades ;  2.  S.  Sebas- 
tian ;  3.  Blessed  Sacrament ;  4.  K. 
Senhora  de  Bom  Vida.  According  to 
Fonseca,  Don  Antonio  de  Noronha, 
nephew  of  Albuquerque,  was  buried  in 
the  Cathedral,  but  his  tomb  is  not  now 
to  be  found.  There  is,  however,  an 
epitaph  to  Garcia  de  Noronha.  Under 
a  casque,  and  surrounded  by  foliage,  is 
inscribed  : — 

A  qui  fajs.  D.  Garcia  de  Noronha, 

Vicerei  que  foi  da  Indite.  Falleceo 

Nesta  cidade  de  Goa  aos  3  d'Aviil 

da  Era  1540  annos. 

In  the  centre  of  the  transept  is  an 
epitaph  to  Julius  SimSo   Quavaliro, 
engineer  and  architect,  and  to  the  left 
of  it  is  that  of  Henrique  Jaques  de 
Magalhaens,  who  was  Governor  of  An- 
gola, and  his  son  G^eral  Pedro  Jaques 
de  Magalhaens,  who  died  SOtJi  April, 
1700.    On  the  right  of  the  architect's 
tomb  is  that  of  Gomez  da  Silva,  with 
the  date  22nd  Sept.  1663.    On  looking 
from  the  terraced  roof  of  the  Cathedrid 
one  cannot  but  think  of  the  solemn 
and  terrible  sights  that  have  been  seen 
in  the  Square  below.    To  the  S.  is  the 
Palace  of  the  Inquisition,  which  is  now 
utterly  demolished.    The  walls  (see 
Pinkerton's  "  Travels,"  vol.  ix.  p.  234) 
were  5  ft.  thick,  and  the  windows  so 
high,  that  it  was  impossible  for  the 
prisoners  to  look  out  from  them.  From 
this  building  the  processions  of  the 
auto  da  fi  were  seen  advancing  to 
the  place  of  execution,  and  specta- 
tors at  the  windows  of  the  Cathedral 
could  see  the  miserable  fate  of  the  con- 
demned.   The  number  of  the  execu- 
tions has  no  doubt  been  greatly  exag- 
gerated ;  it  is  certain,  however,  (see 
Buchanan's  Ch.  Besearches,  p.  152,) 
that  at  least  105  men  and  16  women 
were  consigned  to  the  flames.    How 
many  perished  in  the  dark  dungeons 
of  the  palace   itself   can   never  be 
known,  but  we  may  be  sure  that  a 
much  greater  number  died  there  than 
those  who  were  publicly  immolated. 
The  Inquisition  was  abolished  by  royal 
letter,  on  the  10th  of  Feb.,  1774,  re-es- 
tablished under  Dona  Maria  I.  in  1779, 
and  finally  abolished  in   1812.    The 
site  is  now  covered  with  buslies,  the 


226 


Houte  8. — BoTnhay  to  Goa. 


Sect.  II. 


liarboar  of  poisonous  snakes,  n  fitting 
conclusion  for  this  execrable  institu- 
tion.  To  the  N.W.  of  the  Cathedral  is 
the    Archbishop*iS    Palace,    2  stories 
high,  230  ft.  long,  and  108  ft.  broad. 
Dr.  Gemelli  Careri,  who  saw  it  in  1695 
(see    Churchill's    Voy.,    vol.    iv.    p. 
205),  speaks  of  its  beauty,  and  no 
doubt  it  was  a  rery  magnificent  resi- 
dence, but  it  is  now  in  a  ruinous  state. 
The  doors  of  the  facade  are  yery  hand- 
some ;  enter  to  the  left  of  these,  and 
pass  through  a  hall  of  3  pillars  into 
cloisters,  on  the  walls  of  which  are 
pictures,    representing    martyrdoms. 
They  are  much  injured.    Then  ascend 
31  very  steep  stairs  to  the  left,    lliis 
leads  to  a  landing,  the  windows  of 
which  overlook  a  mng  of  the  palace, 
now  in  ruins.    To  the  right  is  a  gal- 
lery, in  which  are  many  pictures,  in  a 
very  damaged  state.    Ascend  12  more 
steps  to  the  church  of  S.  Francis  d'As- 
sisi,   of  which  a  description  follows. 
W.  of  the  cathedral  are  the  convent  and 
church  of   S.  Francis    d'Assisi.     The 
convent  was  built  in  1517  by  Antonio 
de  Louro,  a  Franciscan  friar,  at  a  cost 
of  £6000.    Pyrard,  pt.  ii.  p.  31,  calls 
it  "  the  richest  and  most  beautiful  edi- 
fice in  the  world."    In  the  cloisters 
were  depicted,  in  blue  and  gold,  the 
life  of  S.  Francis  d'Assisi.   The  church 
was  finished  in  1521,  and  dedicated  in 
1603,  by  Archbishop  Menezes,  to  the 
Spirito  Santo.    It  was  rebuilt  in  1661, 
but  the  gate  of  the  old  edifice,  "exqui- 
sitely carved,"    remains.     Here   are 
buried  Christovfto  Britto,  Dom  Jo5o  da 
Castro,  and  Dom  Manoel  de  Camora. 
It  is  190  ft.  long,  and  60  ft.  broad.     It 
is  referred  to  in  Fryer's  "  A  New  Ac- 
count of  E.  India  and  Persia,"  p.  150. 
The  altar  in  the  chief  chapel  is  an  ex- 
quisite work  of  art.    At  the  W.  end  is 
a  galleiy,  in  which  are  seats  for  the 
bishop  and  monks.  It  appears  to  have 
been  used  as  our  chapter-houses  were. 
The  scenes  from  the  life  of  8.  Francis 
d'Assisi,  mentioned  above,  are  visible 
from  this  at  the  E.  end,  but  are  much 
damaged.    This  has  been  a  gorgeous 
church,  but  is  now  terribly  decayed. 
Kemark  the  view  from  the  side  win- 
dows over  the  great  square.    Fonseca 
says,  "  in  one  of  the  corridors  are  hung 


the  portraits  of  all  the  archbishops." 
Of  these  but  few  are  left,  and  are  much 
decayed.  This  church  was  closed  in 
1835,  when  the  effects,  valued  at 
£13,350  14*.  Qd.,  were  confiscated.  In 
front  of  the  church  of  S.  Francis  runs 
a  steep  narrow  road  to  the  chapel  of 
S.  Catharine.  It  was  built  in  1510,  on 
the  site  of  the  gate  of  the  city  by  which 
the  Portuguese  entered  when  Albu- 
querque took  Goa.  It  was  here  that 
the  most  desperate  struggle  with  the 
Mu^ammadan  garrison  took  place,  and 
here  some  of  the  bravest  Portuguese 
soldiers  fell.  Over  the  door  is  the  fol- 
lowing : — 

Aqui  neste  Ingar  estava  2i  porta  porque 
entrou  o  Governador  Affonso  d' Albuquerque 
li  tomar  esta  cidade  a  os  Mouros  em  dia  de  S. 
Catharina  anno  1510,  em  cujo  honnor  e  me- 
moria  o  governador  Jorge  Cabral  mandon 
faser  esta  caza,  anno  1590,  It  custa  de  S.A. 

The  next  visit  may  be  to  Xavier's 
well.    At  J  m.  to  the  S.E.  of  the  Arch 
of  the  Viceroys  is  a  narrow  lane  run- 
ning to  the  E.,  after  proceeding  along 
which  for  a  short  distance,  turn  to  the 
left,  and  after  150  yds.  come  to  a  well. 
It  is  40  ft.  down  to  the  surface  of  the 
water,  over  which  is  an  arch  of  brick, 
covered  now  with  shrubs  and  creepers. 
Descending  34  steps  you  will  nearly 
reach  the  water,  and  will  see  that  there 
are  other  steps  below  the  water  which 
are  now  broken.  About  40  yds.  N.  of  this 
well  is  S.  Xavier's  chapel,  the  facade 
of  which  is  22  ft.  high.  The  building  is 
roofiess,  and  is  built  of  laterite,  wMch 
looks  very  coarse,  as  the  rains  have 
washed  away  the  plaster  which  once 
covered  it,  and  also  all  but  the  iron- 
stone itself.     There  are  3  chambers. 
The  first  is  38i  ft.  long  from  8.  to  N., 
and  has  3  arches  on  either  side  ;  the  2 
first  being  13  ft.  high,  and  the  3rd  12^ 
ft.    This  chamber  is  14  ft.  broad ;  the 
2nd  chamber  is  37  ft.  long  and  16  ft. 
broad,  and  has  2  windows  on  either 
side.    The  3rd  chamber  is  18  ft.  long, 
and  12^  ft  broad.    In  the  right  wcdl 
of  this  chamber  is  a  door,  now  blocked 
up  ;  to  the  E.  of  this  door,  at  the  dis- 
tance of  28^  ft.,  is  a  well,  in  which  8. 
Xavier  is  said  to  have  performed  his 
ablutions.    It  is  believed  that  there  is 
a  miraculous  double  reflection  of  the 


Sect.  11. 


Bouie  8. — Old  Goo. 


227 


light  in  the  water,  one  large  light  and 
one  small,  the  second  being  miracu- 
lous. The  traveller  may  easily  satisfy 
himself  that  there  is  no  miracle.  If, 
after  looking  at  the  doable  light,  he 
will  go  23  ft.  from  the  N.  end  of  the 
well  and  stop  up  a  crack  which  he  will 
find  there  in  the  brick  covering  of  the 
well — after  doing  this,  he  will  find 
that  the  second  light  in  the  water  has 
vanished.  Although  there  is  nothing 
remarkable  in  the  spot,  the  details  of 
the  building  have  been  minutely  given, 
as  next  to  S.  Xavier's  tomb  and  coffin, 
this  is  the  greatest  object  of  venera- 
tion and  pilgrimage  in  Goa.  The  pro- 
prietor of  the  ground  on  which  Xa- 
vier's  chapel  stands,  lives  in  Bombay. 
He  admits  that  there  are  a  great  many 
cobras  and  other  poisonous  snakes  at 
this  spot,  so  that  it  will  be  well  to  be 
careful. 

The   next  visit  should    be  to  the 
church  of  S.  John  of  God  and  the  con- 
vent of  S.  Monica,  which  are  to  the 
S.W.  of  the  church  of  Bom  Jesus.    To 
reach  these  places  you  must  turn  to 
the  right  before   you  arrive  at   the 
latter  church.    You  will  proceed  some 
100  yds.  from  the  tall  cross  you  will 
see  at  the  turning   along  a  narrow 
lane    overgrown  with    herbage    and 
sprinkled  here  and  there  with  great 
stones,  which  make  it  both  disagree- 
able and  dangerous  to  pass  along  in  a 
carriage.     The  first   building  is  the 
church  of  S.  John,  which  is  on  the  left 
hand.    It  is  a  roofless  ruin,  of  which 
the  doors  have  been  blocked  up,  as  it 
is  dangerous  to  enter.    The  wall  of  the 
enclosure  is  considerably  out  of  the 
perpendicular  and  might  fall  at  any 
moment,  in  which  case  persons  passing 
alongthe  lane  could  hardly  escape  being 
crushed.  Just  beyond  S.John's  Church 
on  the  right  are  the  vast  convent  and 
the  chui-ch  of  S.  Monica.     The  fa9ade 
of  the  church  is  supported  by  3  im- 
mense flying  buttresses.     At  a  few 
hundred  yds.  beyond  these  buildings, 
and  to  the  W.  of  them,  is  the  chui^h 
of  S.  Augustine,  of  which  the  fa9ade 
alone  is  standing,  and  is  about  80  ft. 
high.     On  its  S.W.  side  is  a  tower, 
but  the  corresponding  one  has  fallen. 
Still   more    to  the  W»  are  a  brick 


column  and  part  of  a  wall,  and  be- 
yond these  again  on  an  eminence  is 
the  chnrch  of  S.  Anthony.  Opposite 
this,  but  on  the  right  of  the  road,  is 
the  church  of  S.  Rosario,  commonly 
called  N.  8.  da  Rosario.  Ko  admis- 
sion is  granted  to  the  convent  of  S. 
Monica,  though  there  is  only  1  aged 
nun  left  there.  The  building  is  vast, 
but  according  to  all  accounts  there  is 
nothing  particularly  worth  seeing,  and 
at  all  events  it  is  quite  in  vain  to  sue 
for  leave  to  enter.  The  church,  how- 
ever, of  S.  Monica  can  be  seen,  but  a 
fee  is  expected.  The  stone  doors  in 
the  fa9ade  of  the  church  are  very 
handsome  ;  above  them  is  a  medallion 
with  the  head  of  Our  Saviour,  and  be- 
low is  the  head  of  a  griffin,  and  below 
this  again  the  royal  arms  of  Portugal, 
that  is,  6  castles  with  a  tablet  in  the 
centre  containing  5  smaller  tablets,  in 
each  of  which  are  6  things  that  look 
like  buttons  but  are  meant  for  coins. 
These  are  intended  to  represent  the  25 
pieces  of  silver  for  which  Our  Saviour 
was  sold.  Over  the  first  door  are  2 
inscriptions,  below  the  figure  of  a 
ship,  round  which  is  a  legend  of 
which  only  the  word  "Navio"  can 
now  be  read. 
The  Ist  inscription  is : — 

Jesu  Christo  Eterno  Deus 

Filho  do  Eterno  Padre,  lux 

£  Salvador  do  mimdo. 

Below  the  arms  is  inscribed  : — 

O  Catolico  Felippo  IIII.  Rel 

XX.  de  Portugal,  Monarcha 

da  Espanhas  agragou  a 

Sen  podrado  ester  en 

Signe  mosteiro  em 

XXVII.  de  Marco,  MDCXXXVI. 

The  2nd  inscription  is  : — 

Fundor  e  defensor  e  con- 

summor  esta  sua  Nova  Caza 

E  a  encher  de  gloria. 

This  church  is  115  ft.  long  from  E. 
to  W,  and  50  ft.  broad,  including  the 
wall  which  is  11  ft.  thick.  There  is  a 
latticed  gallery  at  the  W.  end  in- 
tended for  the  nuns.  There  are  also 
some  confessionals.  The  pulpit  is  in 
the  S.  wall,  and  is  very  rich  with 
carving  and  gilding.  Opposite  to  it 
is  an  altar,  but  the  main  altar  is  on 

Q2 


228 


HoiUe  8. — Bombay  to  Goa. 


Sect  II. 


the  E.  and  is  reached  bj  a  flight  of 
gteps.  On  either  side  of  the  lowest 
step  is  the  figure  of  an  angeL  On  the 
rit^ht  of  the  chancel  arch  is  a  picture 
of  a  procession  of  nuns  in  black  cloth- 
inc^,  strangely  contrasting  with  their 
white  faces.  On  the  right  of  the  altar, 
opposite  the  pulpit,  is  the  following  in- 
scription : — 

A  Sep.  a  questa  janta  deste 
epftafio  e  do  P.  Fr.  Diogo  de 

Sta  Anna  da  Ordem  dos 
Erem*  da  N.P.S.G.  e  o  sendo 

Prior  na  Persia  redu2io  a 

obediencia  da  Sta  Egreja  Bo- 

manae  David  Patriarca 

doe  Armeniofl  e  com  ille 

seiflbispos  Ereg. :  e  sacerdotes 

qne  todos  jurarfto  obcd"  a  ata 

Igr.  Bomana  exercen  todos 

OS  lugares  authorizados  na 

Cong,  athe  ser  della  Provin. 

Visitador  apostolico — Foy 

deput.  dos  off.  e  junz.  dos 

ordes  na  se^.  instan- 

cia  e  um  o  pnmeiro  Adm. 

deste  real  Convento  sea  re- 

ediflcador  e  foy  espiritual 

das  Pelig.  por  todo  o  tem^o  de 

sua  vida  pelo  que  nfto  aceitou 

a  mitra  de  Bispo  em 

Cochim.  Foy  natural  de 

Brag,  da  Caza  e  fami- 

lia  dos  Condes  de  Beva- 

vente,  dos  nobilissimos 

Morels,  Pimenteis,  Preiras 

de  quern  procedem  os 

Senhores  de  Barcellona 

illustre  por  obras  virtuosas 

*  *  ^^  e  escbrecido  por  esmolar 

e  Benefeitor  deste  real 

Convento  no  temjwral 

e  espiritual.  Ainstan- 

cia  dos  Madris  e  Beli- 

giozas  delle  foy  aqui 

sepultado  e  onde  flcfto 

sens  ossos  para  i)erpetua 

memoria.    Falleceo  sendo 

de  edade  de  setento  e  tres 

annos  em  uma  quinta 
fera  as  nove  lioras  de  noete 
aos  26  de  Octubro  de  1644. 

The  first  stone  of  the  Convent  of  S. 
Monica  was  laid  on  the  2nd  of  July, 
1706,  by  D.  Fr.  Aleixo  de  Menezes, 
Archbishop  of  Goa.  It  took  21  years 
to  finish  the  building,  which  cost 
200,000  crusados. 

Having  seen  the  most  remarkable 
buildings  in  Old  Goa,  the  traveller 
may  pay  a  visit  to  the  palace  of  the 
governor  at  Pat0im,  which  town, 
otherwise  Nova  Goa,  is  joined  to  Kai- 
bandar    by   a    causeway,   which    is 


9800  ft.  long.  The  present  governor, 
who  is  an  admiral  in  the  Portuguese 
Navy,  and  was  educated  in  England, 
has  been  governor  of  Angola,  and  has 
introduced  the  coffee  plant  from  that 
part  of  Africa,  in  the  belief  that  it  is 
superior  to  that  now  grown  in  India. 
He  has  made  aboulevard  in  front  of  the 
palace  towards  the  river,  and  planted 
it  with  flowers  and  shrubs,  which  is  a 
great  improvement  on  the  mud  bank 
over  which  the  palace  formerly  looked 
out.  There  is  a  fine  saloon  in  the 
palace,  hung  with  the  portraits  of 
former  viceroys  and  governors.  In 
the  principal  hall  is  a  portrait  of  the 
king.  There  is  also  in  the  building  a 
chapel,  with  an  image  of  Christ  which 
belonged  to  the  Liquisition.  The 
Viceroy  has  a  guard  of  12  soldiers, 
dressed  in  the  old  style  as  the  first 
viceroys  had  iJiem.  Opposite  the 
palace  is  the  Accountant  -  General's 
Office,  249  ft.  long  and  128  broad. 
Beyond  are  the  Jail,  Telegraph  Office, 
and  High  Court,  88  ft.  long  and  82 
broad.  To  the  8.  is  the  most  populous 
quarter.  S.W.  from  the  palace  is  N.S. 
da  Concei9&o,  situated  half  down  a 
hill  behind  the  town,  plain  but  beauti- 
fully situated.  There  is  a  cemeteiy 
with  pictures  from  convents.  The 
Municipal  Hall  is  72  ft.  x  105,  with 
portraits  of  Vasco  da  Gama  and  Albu- 
querque. In  one  room  is  a  portrait 
of  Bernardo  Peres  da  Silva,  the  only 
native  of  Gba  who  has  been  governor. 
To  the  E.  is  the  Archbishop's  Palace, 
and  W.  of  that  is  a  barrack  498  ft.  long 
and  54  broad,  which  cost  £13,000. 
Facing  the  barracks  is  a  statue  of  Al- 
buquerque, set  up  on  the  24th  October, 
1847,  with  this  inscription : — 

Nfto  vos  hade  falteu,  gente  amosa 

Honra  valor  e  fama  gloriosa. 

No  bona  e  feliz  govemo  do 

Hlmo  e  Bx««»  Sr.  D.  Manoel  de  Portugal  e 

Castro  V"**  da  India. 

Anno  de  1832. 

In  this  barrack  were  confined  the  Sd- 
wantwddl  rebels,  Phond  Sdwant  and 
his  8  stalwart  sons.  On  the  extreme 
W.  of  the  city  is  the  esplanade,  called 
since  1838  Campo  de  D.  Manoel. 
There  are  2  bridges,  that  of  Minerva 
and  tiiat  of  S.  Ignez.  This  town  being 


Sect.  II. 


Route  8. — Old  Goa, 


229 


nearer  the  sea  is  much  cooler  and  more 
healtiiy  than  either  Baibandar  or  Old 
Goa.  A  visit  may  also  be  paid  to 
Aguado  Point,  which  is  260  ft.  above 
the  sea.  The  passage  must,  of  course, 
be  made  in  a  boat.  There  is  a  circular 
tower  at  the  Point  .36 J  ft.  in  diameter 
and  42  ft.  high,  showing  a  light  revolv- 
ing in  7  minutes.  Here  is  the  largest 
clock  bell  in  Goa.  In  the  fort  is  a  cis- 
tern 115  ft.  in  diameter,  and  holding 
2,376,000  gallons.  There  are  4  barracks 
and  a  chapel  to  Our  Lady  of  Good 
Voyages.  In  1808  British  troops  held 
thef  ort.  The  place  has  its  name,  Aguado 
or  Agoado,  from  aguay  "water,'*  be- 
cause ships  were  supplied  here  with 
water  for  their  voyages.  Overa  fountain 
is  an  inscription  which  may  be  thus 
translated — "  In  the  reign  of  the  very 
Catholic  king  Dom  Felipo  III.  of  Por- 
tugal, the  Count  of  Vidigueira,  Dom 
Francisco  da  Gama,  the  viceroy,  ordered 
the  city  to  build  this  fountain  with 
money  received  from  ships  which 
watered  at?this  port.  It  was  done  in 
the  year  1624."  The  fort  has  79  guns 
and  some  soldiers  with  4  officers.  Close 
by  on  a  hill  is  the  Church  of  S.  Lau- 
rence, begun  1630  and  finished  1643. 
Within  is  an  inscription  of  which  the 
following  is  a  translation — "In  the 
reign  of  the  Catholic  King  of  Portu- 
gal, Dom  Philip  III.,  the  Viceroy,  D. 
Miguel  de  Noronha,  Count  of  Linhares, 
ordered  this  hermitage  of  S.  Laurence 
to  be  built  with  the  money  of  this 
Senate  in  the  year  1630."  S.  of  the 
port  is  the  Fort  Marmagao,  which  was 
also  built  in  the  reign  of  Dom  Phi- 
lip III.,  when  Dom  Francisco  da  Gama 
was  for  the  second  time  viceroy,  in  the 
year  1624.  This  fort  is  2  leagues  in 
circumference.  It  has  63  guns.  Fort 
Beis  Magos  is  2  m.  E.  by  N.  of  Agoada. 
It  was  built  in  1561,  and  has  33  guns. 
It  was  rebuilt  in  1707,  when  Caetano 
de  Mello  e  Castro  was  viceroy.  To 
the  E.  is  the  church,  with  the  tomb  of 
Don  Luis  da  Athai'de,  viceroy.  Fort 
Gaspar  Dios  faces  Beis  Magos,  and 
was  built  in  1598.  There  is  a  fine 
view  over  the  harbour  from  Fort  Beis 
Magos.  The  Alfondega,  or  Custom 
House,  at  Goa  is  108  ft.  long  and  72 
broad. 


Observe  in  Goa,  the  oyster-shells 
used  in  windows  instead  of  panes  of 
glass,  and  the  manchU  or  litter  very 
much  used  by  the  better  classes.  It 
consists  of  a  cloth  or  curtained  frame 
slung  on  a  bambii  and  carried  by  2 
men.  It  is  convenient  and  light,  but 
thereas  little  protection  from  the  sun. 

The  island  of  Goa  is  9  m.  long  and 
3  broad.  It  was  called  by  the  na- 
tives Tls  WAdi.  Panjim  is  5  m. 
from  the  harbour's  mouth,  and  Bai- 
bandar, joined  by  the  causeway,  is 
about  2  m.  further.  There  are  2J  f . 
of  water  in  the  harbour  at  low  water. 
The  territory  belonging  to  Goa  is  60  m. 
long  by  30  broad,  and  the  area  is  1060 
sq.  m.  It  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by  the 
Tirakol  or  Arandem  river,  which 
separates  it  from  S^wantwddi,  on  the 
E.  by  the  W.  GhAts,  on  the  W.  by  the 
sea,  and  on  the  S.  by  N.  Eanara.  It  is 
divided  into  the  old  and  new  conquests. 
There  are  three  provinces  in  the  old 
conquests,  viz.,  IlhSo,  which  has  48  sq. 
m.,  Salsette  with  102,  and  Badez  with 
72  sq,  m..  The  new  conquests  contain 
Pamem,  73  sq.  m. ;  Batagrama,  67  sq. 
m.  ;  Sdtari,  144  sq.m. ;  Ponda,  or  An- 
tr^y,  79  sq.  m.  :  Kanakona,  113,  and 
Embarbarcem,  186 ;  EAkoran,  5  sq.  m. ; 
Chandravadi,  37  sq.  m.  ;  Balli,  67  ; 
Astograr,  77 ;  Anjadiva,  1  sq.  m. ; 
Tirakol,  1.  In  the  Sahiyddri  range, 
which  bounds  Goa  to  the  E.,  the 
highest  peaks  are  Sonsagor,  3827  ft. 
high  ;  Kattanchimanti,  3633  ;  Vag- 
narim,  3600  ;  and  Morlemchogar,  3400. 
The  principal  streams  are  the  Tirakol, 
which  has  a  course  of  14  m.,  the 
Chapera,  which  runs  18  m.,  the  Mdn- 
davl  with  38J  m,,  and  the  Tuari  with 
39  m.  The  pop.  in  1851  was  363,788, 
there  being  then  3308  more  females 
than  males.  In  1879  the  pop.  had  in- 
creased to  392,234.  Goa  was  con- 
quered by  Alfonzo  de  Albuquerque  in 
1610.  He  found  village  communities 
existing.  The  village  council  consisted 
of  the  tax-collector,  the  clerk,  carpen- 
ter, barber,  shoemaker,  washerman, 
crier,  and  inahdr,  or  sweeper.  The 
revenue  is  now  £77,111  6*.  The  ex- 
penditure is  £26,436.  There  have  been 
famines  in  1653, 1670,  and  1682.  The 
late  treaty  with  the  Government  of 


230 


Boute  10. — SdwarUwddi  to  Belgdoh. 


Sect.  11. 


British  India  in  which  the  salt  trade 
has  been  settled  and  a  railway  from 
Hubli  to  Marmagao  sanctioned  cannot 
but  greatly  increase  the  prosperity  of 
Goa. 


ROUTE  9. 

GOA  TO  VINGOBLBJr. 

The  distance  between  these  2  places 
is  28  m.,  and  can  be  crossed  in  a 
steamer  or,  in  fine  weather,  in  a  native 
boat.  After  leaving  the  harbour  the 
first  place  seen  '^l  be  Tirakol,  a 
white  fort  crowning  a  hill  about  150  ft. 
high ;  after  that  Beri  Fort  will  be  seen. 

Vingorlen  is  not  a  harbour  but  a 
roadstead,  protected  only  on  the  N. 
The  T.  B.  is  3  m.  S.E.  of  the  landing- 
place.  There  is  a  small  pier  at  Vin- 
gorlen, with  2  cranes  for  landing  heavy 
cargo.  On  a  hill  overlooking  the  pier 
is  an  unfurnished  bangl4  belonging  to 
the  Custom  House.  A  shigram  with 
bullocks  for  the  traveller  himself,  and 
a  bullock  cart  for  his  luggage  to  go  to 
S^wantwddi,  can  be  obtained  for  3  rs. 
The  T.  B.  and  the  town  cannot  be  seen 
from  the  landing-place,  being  hidden 
by  palm  trees.  The  town  extends  in 
a  straggling  fashion  for  about  2  m. 
along  the  road  to  S&wantwddl.  There 
is  a  good  ToYim  Hall,  with  a  clock 
tower.  A  vast  amount  of  cotton  and 
timber  is  shipped  at  Vingorlen.  The 
pop,  of  Vingorlen  is  very  incorrectly 
given  by  Thornton  at  5000,  but  it  ap- 
l^ears  from  the  census  papers  of  1872, 
p.  176,  to  be  14,996.  VingorleA  was  a 
retreat  for  the  numerous  pirates  who 
infested  the  coast  until  1812,  when  it 
was  ceded  by  the  Chief  of  Sdwant- 
w4dl  to  the  East  India  Company.  It 
is  the  place  of  embarkation  for  troops 
and  officers,  both  civil  and  military, 
coming  from  Sdwantwddl  and  Bel- 
gdou. 


ROUTE    10. 

SlWAKTWADl  AJSJ}  BY    THE  AMBOLI 
ghIt  to  BELGAON. 

From  VingorleA  to  Sdwantw&di  is 
about  13  m.  along  a  very  fair  road, 
which  leads  through  a  tolerably 
wooded  country,  with  low  hills  and 
small  streams.  At  a  place  called  Kir- 
nil,  about  the  7th  m.,  it  is  usual  to 
change  horses,  and  the  road  then 
turns  off  a  little  to  the  N.  to  Sdwant- 
wAdl. 

Sdwantwddi, — ^This  place  belongs  to 
the  Sir  Desdi,  a  chief  of  good  family. 
The  name  of  the  present  Sir  Desdl  is 
Raghon^th  Sdwant  Bhonsle,  or  Bdba 
S^^ib,  who  is  18  years  of  age  and  has 
just  married  Tdi^  B&l,  daughter  of 
Jamn&  Bdi,  the  adopted  mother  of  the 
G&ekw&d,  He  is  a  bold  rider  and 
sportsman.  His  full  title  is  Sir  Desai 
Baj^  Bah&dur.  He  was  born  in  Sep- 
tember, 1862,  and  is  entitled  to  a 
salute  of  9  guns.  The  country  of 
which  he  is  cMef  has  an  area  of  900 
sq.  m.,  and,  according  to  the  census  of 
1872,  a  population  of  190,814,  chiefly 
Hindi!is.  The  revenue  is  a  little  under 
Rs.  300,000,  and  is  derived  chiefly  from 
land.  It  is  increasing.  The  chief 
traces  his  ancestry  back  to  Phond 
Sdwant,  the  father  of  Eem  Sdwant, 
who  reigned  from  A.D.  1627to  A.D.  1640. 
Very  little  is  known  of  the  early  his- 
tory of  the  family.  The  country  was 
conquered  by  the  Kings  of  Bijdpiir, 
but  one  of  the  chiefs,  named  Mdng 
S&want,  resisted  fiercely.  His  capital 
was  at  Hodaw4d&,  on  the  Tirakol 
river,  where  he  died.  His  residence 
there  is  much  resorted  to  as  a  shrine 
by  the  Bhonsle  faraUy  of  WAdl. 
About  1646  Lakam  S4want  made  a 
treaty  with  Shivaji,  but  soon  resumed 
his  allegiance  to  BijdpTlir.  After  several 
conflicts  Lakam  was  obliged  to  renew 
his  engagements  to  Shivaji,  and  thence- 
forth became  subject  to  the  Mardtbas. 
The  chiefs  of  S&wantwddi  were,  how- 
ever, attacked  by  the  Angrias  of 
Koldba,  who  were  at  first  admirals  of 
Shivujl's  fleet  and  afterwards  became 


Sect.  11. 


Houte  10. — Sdwantwddi — Wddi, 


231 


formidable  pirates.    At  last,  about  the 
middle  of  the  18th  century,  in  RAm- 
chandra  SAwant's  reign,  1737 — 1755, 
they  were  finally  overthrown  by  Jay- 
T&m  S4want  at  Lanja.    Kem  S&want 
reigned  from  1755  to  1803.    He  mar- 
ried the  daughter  of  Jayaji  Sindhia, 
and,  owing  to   this    great  marriage, 
obtained  from  the  Emperor  of   Dilll 
the  title  of  RAj6  BahAdur,  the  IlAj6  of 
which    probably    means    the    distin- 
guished Rdj^.    He,  like  the  A'ngrias, 
indulged  in  piracy,  which  brought  on 
a  conflict  with  the  British  Govern- 
ment, in  which  Kem  Sdwant  defended 
himself    successfully.      On  Kem   S4- 
want's  death  in  1803  a  struggle  took 
place  between  his  imcles,  Jayrdm  and 
Shrlrdm,  which  was  ended  by  Som 
Sdwant,  the  father  of  Jayrdm,  who, 
being  beleaguered  in  the  fort  of  Wddl, 
blew  up  the  palace  and  destroyed  his 
whole  family  except  one  son,  Phond 
iSdwant,  who  being  then  a  prisoner 
in  the  fort  at  Redl,  escaped.    Lak^hmi 
Bii,  widow    of    Kem  Sdwant,  then 
adopted  Kdmchandra,  or  Bbau  ^dl^ib, 
who  was  strangled,  and  the  army  of 
the  NipAni  chief  took  possession  of  the 
country,  but  he  was  expelled  by  Phond 
S4want,  the  chief  who  had  escaped 
when  the  palace  was  destroyed.  Phond 
Sdwant    made    a    treaty    with    the 
British,  and  ceded  Vingorleii  to  them. 
He  died  in    1812,  and   DurgA    Bdl, 
second  widow  of  Kem  Sdwant,  became 
regent.     She  died  in  1819,  when  such 
disorders  arose  that  the  British  again 
interfered.     A  treaty  was  concluded 
lietween  them  and  the  W4di  State  on 
the  17th  February,  1819,  by  which 
the    latter  ceded  all  their  seaboard, 
including  the  forts  of  Redl  and  Niwli. 
In  1822  the  British  placed  Kem  Si- 
want,  the  son  of  Phond  Sdwant,  on 
the  throne,   but    in  1838  they  were 
obliged    to  take    the   administration 
into  their  own   hands.      In  1844    a 
rebellion  broke  out  in  the  neighbour- 
ing state  of  Kolh&pi!ir,  and  in  January, 
1845,  extended  ^1  over  Sdwantwddi. 
Phond  Sdwant,  a  man  of    some  in- 
fluence, with  his  8  sons,  joined    the 
rebels,  and  Annd  $d^ib,  the  eldest  son 
of  the  late  Sir  Dcsdi  Kem  Sdwant, 
liaving  joined  them  qn  the  I6th  pf 


November,  1834,  several  engagements 
with  the  British  took  place.    Ensign 
Faure,  of   the   2nd  European   regt., 
who  was  coming  from  BelgdoA  to  Vin- 
gorlen  with  a  cavalry  escort,  was  mor- 
tally  wounded   and   died  the    same 
evening.    On  the  16th  of  Jan.,  1846, 
Colonel  Outram  moved   against   the 
rebels  with  a  strong  force.    On  the 
27th  General  de  la  Motte  took  posses- 
sion  of   the  forts  of    Manohar  and 
Mansanto^,  which  had  been  evacu- 
ated by  the  enemy  during  the  night, 
on  which  the  rebels  escaped  into  the 
Goa  territory.    At  last  a  convention 
was  arranged  with  the  Government  of 
Gkta,  the    refugees  were  allowed   to 
return,  and  Annd  ^a^ib  came  back  to 
Wddi    on    August   2l8t,    1849.     The 
British   force   employed   during   the 
rebellion  consisted  of  the  left  wing  of 
the  2nd  Queen's,  or  Royals,  a  company 
of    H.M.'s  17th  Foot,  the   7th  regt. 
Bom.  N.I.,  and  the  3rd  Madras  N.I., 
and  detachments  of  7  other  regts.,  and 
these  troops  were  much  harassed  in 
hunting  the  insurgents   through   the 
dense  and  dangerous  jungles  of   the 
country.    The  people  of  Wddl  are  a 
fine,  athletic,  and  martial  race,  and 
for  a  long  time  supplied  many  good 
soldiers  to  the  Bombay  army.    The 
present  Sir  Desdi  is  the  son  of  that 
Annd  $dl>ib  who  played  such  a  con- 
spicuous part  in  the  rebellion,  and, 
being  a  minor,  the  State  is  still  go- 
verned by  the  English,  under  whose 
rule  the  people  have  settled  down  into 
quiet  and  orderly  habits.    A  well  dis- 
ciplined local  corps  has  been  estab- 
lished, new  roads  have  been  made,  and 
the  chief  having  been  educated  at  tho 
Rdjkumdr  College,  shows  every  dispo- 
sition to  govern  his  country  in  accord- 
ance with  British  views. 

Wddi. — At  this  town  there  are  some 
peculiar  manufactures :  stuffs  em- 
broidered with  gold  and  silver  are 
well  made  here,  also  bison  horns, 
polished  and  mounted  with  silver,  and 
native  packs  of  playing  cards  divided 
into  suits  named  after  the  10  incar- 
nations of  Vishnu.  Each  suit  has 
a  king,  vazir,  and  10  plain  cards, 
in  all  120 ;  they  are  dealt  to  4 
players,  4  at  £^  time,  an4  tlie  hig^hcs^ 


232 


JioiUe  10. — Sdwanttoddi  to  Belgdon. 


Sect.  11. 


wins.  Also  boxes  ornamented  with 
the  wings  of  the  diamond  beetle,  &c., 
are  well  made  here.  The  Moti  taldo, 
or  "pearl  tank,"  which  borders  the 
town,  covers  37  acres,  and  is  fall 
of  fi^,  but  has  no  alligators.  Every 
year  the  water  is  let  off  and  the 
mud   cleared    out,  but  the   fi^   are 

Preserved  in   a   deep  pit.      E.    and 
f  J!,  of  the  tank  is  the  old  wdd^,  or 
palace,  where  are  the  public  offices, 
which  are  to  be  rebuilt  with  a  hand- 
some facade  and  clock  tower.     The 
walls  of  the  fort  have  been  cleared 
away,  but  there  is  a  bastion  to  the  N. 
of  the  tank,  where  the  post-office  is  to 
be  placed.    The  b^zir  is  long,  but  has 
notning   remarkable.    About  70  yds. 
to  the  W.  and  by  N.W.  of  the  tank  are 
the  lines  of  the  local  corps.    There  is 
a    handsome    gateway    to    the    N.E. 
North  of  the  tank  there  is  a  Boman 
Catholic   chapel,  which  is  well  sup- 
ported, as  there  are  5000  Roman  Ca- 
tholics in  the  vicinity.  The  Library  is 
close  to  the  tank,  and  there  is  a  fine 
view  over  it.    There  are  1500  volumes 
and  a  good  reading-room.    There  is  a 
small   People's  Park,  the  railings  of 
which  are  made  of  the  muskets  taken 
from  the  people  when  the  country  was 
disarmed.    This  is  good  head-quarters 
for    sportsmen,    as    the    road,    after 
leaving  the  N.  side  of  the  lake,  lies 
through  a  jungle,  which  is  in  many 
places  dense.   Tigers  wander  from  hill 
to  hill  in  these  woods,  and  panthers 
are  always  there.    The  bears  are  large 
and    fierce,  but  keep   to  the  Ghdts, 
where   they  sometimes   kill   solitary 
travellers. 

The  stages  to  the  Amboli  Gh&t  are 
as  follows : — 


From 

To 

MUes. 

W4dl       . 

.    Danoli 

.    9 

Danoli 

.    Amboli  . 

.    .  lOJ 

Between  Wddl  and  Danoli,  3 
streams  are  crossed  by  neat  and  quite 
level  bridges,  which  have  inscriptions 
on  them,  with  the  date  of  construction. 
The  streams  are — 1,  the  Burdl ;  2,  the 
Pugd ;  3,  the  Warkond.  In  the  largest 
of  these  there  are  alligators.  The  T.B. 
at  Danoli  stands  on  a  slight  eminence 
to  the  left  of  the  road  as  you  go  to 


Amboli.    It  has  one  very  good  room 
with  2  beds,  one  of  which  has  mus- 
quito-curtains.      Another   room,    not 
quite  so  good,  has  only  1  bed  without 
curtains.    In  the  best  room  there  are 
4  tables,  shelves,  pegs,  and  a  framed 
list  of    furniture,  with  the  rates  at 
which  compensation  will  be  demanded 
for  breakages.    There  are  a  dressing- 
room  and  bath-room.     The  man  in 
charge  of  the  banglA  will  supply  a 
good  curry  for  12  dnAs.    The  windows 
have  Venetians  and  the  doors  chiks,  so 
there  are  no  flies.    You  pay  1  r.  for  24 
hrs.  and  8  kn&s  for  less  time.    The 
road  ascends  the    whole   way   from 
Danoli,  and  is  so  steep  in  some  places 
that  the  horses  can  only  walk.    The 
hills   are    thickly  wooded,  and    the 
scenery  resembles  that  of  MahAbalesh- 
war,  though  it  is  far  less  picturesque, 
the  hills  being  not  nearly  so    high. 
The  road  is  generally  thronged  with 
carts,  which  impede  progress.    About 
half  way  is  the  hamlet  of  NhAne  Ka 
Pdnl.    The  police  here  say  that  they 
often  hear  the  roaring  of  wild  beasts 
at  night,  and  that  the  panthers  come 
down  after  the  bullocks  and  frighten 
the  cart-men.    Higher  up  there  are 
tigers  and  bears.    The  53rd  milestone 
from    Belgdon    is    passed    near   the 
T.   B.  at    Danoli,  and  the  T.   B.   at 
Amboli  is  reached  just  at   the  43rd 
milestone.    The  bangli  stands  a  little 
off  the  road  to  the  left  as  you  go  to 
Belg^ofi,  and  has  a  clean  bed  with 
musquito  curtains  and  plenty  of  tables 
and  chairs.    Usually  at  this  GhAt  a 
strong  wind  sets  in  at  sunset,  and  rises 
almost  to  a  tempest.    Observe  to  the 
right  of  the  bangU  the  hill  of  Mahd- 
deogajrh,  which  was  one  of  the  strong- 
holds of  the  rebels  in  1844.    There  is 
now  not  a  vestige  of  a  fort  upon  it. 
7  m.  to  the  N.  of    Mahddeogaj-h  is 
Manohargafh,  which  is    a   hill    fort 
2600  ft.  above  the  sea.    The  fort  is 
440  yds.  from  B.  to  W.  and  350  from 
N.  to  S.  where  broadest.    To  the  W. 
of  it  is  the  much  smaller  fort  of  Man- 
santo^h,  or  "  mind  at  peace,"  on  part 
of   the   same  ridge  separated  by    a 
chasm.    Manohar  has  2  strong  gates 
to  a  single    entrance,  which  is  ap- 
proached by  a  flight  of  steps  hewn  in 


Sect.  II. 


BotUe  10. — Belgdoh, 


233 


the  solid  rock.  These  forts  in  skilfal 
hands  would  be  almost  im^gnable. 
Until  1845  they  belonged  to  Kolhdpiir, 
but  after  the  rebellion  of  that  year 
were  annexed  to  S4wantw4dl.  The 
Gh^ts  all  along  between  these  forts 
from  Amboli,  swarm  with  wild  beasts, 
but  the  jungle  is  so  dense  that  it  is 
almost  impossible  to  drive  them  from 
their  lairs.  The  Sir  Desii  has  a 
bangld  at  Amboli,  and  so  has  the  Poli- 
tical Superintendent.  The  man  in 
charge  of  the  Sir  Des4i*s  bangld 
haying  gone  out  early  one  morning, 
found  a  veiy  large  tiger  sitting  close 
to  the  door,  which  made  off  without 
attempting  to  hurt  him.  On  leaving 
the  T.  ^,  at  Amboli  there  is  rather  a 
steep  descent,  and  the  road  then 
turns  to  the  right,  and  after  150  yds. 
passes  on  the  left  a  white  tomb  with  a 
tablet,  on  which  is  inscribed,  ^'  Sacred 
to  the  memory  of  Ensign  Wilmott, 
14th  Regt.  Bombay  N.  I.,  who  fell  at 
the  taking  of  the  Fort  of  Mah4deogairh 
by  escalade  on  the  15th  of  September, 
1832."  Beyond  this  tomb  is  a  village, 
which  is  rapidly  increasing.  A  road 
here  turns  off  to  the  right,  which  leads 
to  the  Bdm  Ghdt,  and  the  old  road  to 
Vingorlen,  which  is  disused  on  account 
of  the  great  Steepness  of  the  Ghdt. 
There  is,  however,  a  banglA  here  much 
used  by  shooting  parties.  The  next 
stage  to  Amboli  is  Kanilr,  10  m.  dis- 
tant. There  is  a  very  tolerable  T.  B., 
and  the  road  is  excellent,  as  it  is  be- 
tween E4ni^r  and  the  next  stage, 
Tandulw^di,  which  is  14  m.  distant. 
There  is  much  rice  cultivation  along 
the  road,  whence  Tandulwidl  gets 
its  name.  The  T.  B.  here  is  a  little 
way  off  the  road  to  the  right, 
and  has  some  fine  trees  near  it.  At 
^  m.  beyond  it  is  a  toll  of  4  dni^. 
Wdsl,  the  next  stage,  is  about  9  m., 
and  Belg&on,  which  comes  next,  is 
9  more.  The  T.  B.  at  Belgjioii  is 
close  to  the  fort,  the  arrangements  are 
bad. 

Belgaon  is  the  capital  of  a  collec- 
torate,  which  has  a  pop.  of  483,928, 
the  town  of  Belg^ii  itself  having 
26,947.  A  very  large  garrison  has  been 
usually  kept  in  the  cantonment,  but 
is  now  greatly  reduced,    According  to 


Mr.  Stokes,  Madras  C.  S.,*  the  original 
name  of  Belgdoii  was  Venu-grAma= 
Bambii  village;  the  Sanskrit  Yenu 
having  become  Vel.  Copies  of  the 
Veda  at  Belgion  are  superscribed 
Venu-grama.  The  town  by  the  natives 
is  called  ShAhpilir  Belgdou,  from  the 
neighbouring  jAgir  of  Shdhpiir,  which 
lies  to  the  S.  It  is  situated  in  a  plain 
about  2600  ft.  above  the  sea,  with  low 
hills  in  the  distance.  The  fort  being 
at  the  E.  extremity,  the  town  lies  in 
the  centre,  and  the  cantonment  to 
theW. 

Tlie  Ihrt  is  strong  against  natives, 
built  of  stone,  with  earthen  ramparts. 
It  is  of  an  oval  shape,  1000  yds.  in 
length  by  800  in  breadth,  with  a  broad 
and  deep  wet  ditch  cut  in  very  hard 
ground  ;  the  wall  is  30  ft.  high.  To 
the  N.  is  a  large  tank,  and  to  the  S. 
rice  fields.  The  entrance  is  to  the  N. W. 
Within  the  fort  is  an  arsenal,  a  bar- 
rack for  European  soldiers,  and  some 
bangl&s  of  civilians  and  others.  This 
fort  was  taken  by  Brig. -General  after- 
wards Sir  T.  Munro,  on  the  10th  of 
April,  1818,  having  been  besieged  from 
the  20th  of  March.  The  English  bat- 
teries were  erected  on  the  N.W.  of  the 
fort,  and  between  the  tank  and  the  na^ 
tive  town.  The  enemy  had  1600  men 
and  36  guns,  besides  60  small  brass 
guns  and  wall  pieces.  They  lost  20 
killed  and  60  wounded,  and  the  Eng- 
lish 11  killed  and  12  wounded.  On  the 
right  of  the  gateway  is  a  Persian  in- 
scription, a  lithograph  copy  of  which 
is  given  by  Mr.  Burgess  in  his  Re- 
port of  the  first  season's  operations 
in  Belgdon,  of  which  this  is  the  trans- 
lation : — 

The  glorious  God  I 
Under  the  Government  of  Kh&n  Muhammad, 

of  fortunate  issue, 

The  wall  of  the  Fort  was  entirely  restored, 

On  this  day  Pir  Mu^aminad,  sou  of  Zi\A\ 

Kh4n, 

Superintended  this  excellent  work. 

This  said  the  sage,  is  the  date  of  the  structure. 

The  wall  became  strong  and  solid  exceedingly. 

The  last  line  is  the  chronogram,  and 
gives  the  date  1648.  The  slab  is  built 
into  the  front  wall  of  the  library, 
which    was   formerly  the    Kil'addr's 

*  Records   of  Bombay  Government,  New 
Series,  No,  116,  p.  18, 


234 


EoiUe  10. — SawarUwddi  to  Belgdm, 


Sect.  IL 


house.*  On  the  left  of  the  gateway, 
in  a  recess  in  the  parapet,  is  another 
Persian  inscription,  which  maybe  thus 
translated : 

Y'akiib  'Ali  KhAn,  the  gladdener  of  hearts, 
Whose   mercy   makes   the  house  of  life  to 

abound, 
Strengthened  the  foundations  of  the  ramparts 

of  the  Fort, 
And  made  its  base,  strong  as  the  wall  of 

Alexander, 
The  sage  said,  the  date  of  its  restoration 
Is,  the  wall  became  stronger  than  the  spirit 

of  the  desperate. 

This  chronogram  gives  A.H.  937  = 
A.D.  1530.  In  the  passage,  through  the 
gateway  which  curves  to  a  second  gate, 
is  a  row  of  arches  with  some  neat 
carving.  At  120  yds,  distance  you 
come  straight  to  the  ruined  Naubat 
Khdnah  or  music  gallery.  Before  reach- 
ing this,  is  the  Executive  Engineer's 
Office  on  the  right,  and  the  CoUector's 
house  is  just  beyond  the  Naubat 
KtiAnah,  also  on  the  right.  On  the  left 
is  the  fort  church,  St.  Thomas.  It  is 
112  ft.  7  long.  There  are  7  tablets  ; 
the  first  has  this  inscription  : — 

This  Tablet  was  erected 

by  Government 

in  recognition  of  the  able 

and  devoted]  public  services  of 

CHARLES     JAMES     MANSON, 

of  the  Bombay  Civil  Service, 

Who,  when  Acting  Political  Agent, 

Southern  Maratha  country, 

was  barbarously  murdered 

by  a  Band  of  Rebels 

in  the  night  of  the  29th  May,  1858, 

at  the  village  of  Suraban. 

The  Apse  and  Memorial  Window  at  the  E.  end 

of  the  Church  were  erected  by  his  Friends 
In  affectionate  remembrance  of  his   public 

worth. 

Another  tablet  is  to  Lieut.  "W.  P. 
Shakespeare,  and  A.  P.  Campbell,  and 
Ensign  W.  Caldwell,  who  all  fell  in 
the  insurrection  of  Kolhipilr  and  Sd- 
wantwddl.  Beyond  the  Naubat  Khdnah 
to  the  E.  is  a  neat  but  plain  mosque, 
with  no  inscription,  and  with  one 
large  tomb  and  3  smaller  ones  inside. 
A  little  further  to  the  S.  is  a  plain 
temple,  built  of  laterite.  It  is  oblong, 
and  is  55  ft.  from  N.  to  S.,  and  42  ft. 
from  E.  to  W.  There  is  a  low  wall  at  the 


entrance, 


along 


which    are    carved 


*  So  stated  in  Mr.  Burgess'  Report;  but, 
according  to  infonnation  received  ou  the  sj^ot, 
that  hou»<;  has  perished, 


figures  of  musicians.  Then  comes  the 
real  facade,  with  4  pillars  and  2  pilas- 
ters, 2  of  the  pillars  being  on  either 
side  of  the  entrance ;  all  of  them  are 
of  very  complicated  character.  There 
was  an  inscription  in  this  temple,  as  in 
one  of  the  otner  2,  in  the  old  Kanada 
language,  beautifully  cut  on  a  slab  of 
black  porphyry,  which  is  now  broken 
across.  It  is  now  in  the  Museum  of 
the  Bombay  Asiatic  Society.  It  states 
that  Malik^rjuna,  whose  descent  for  3 
generations  is  given,  built  the  temple  to 
Sh4ntin4th,  the  16th  Tirthankar.  The 
date  is  Shaka  1127=A.D.  1206.  Mr. 
Burgess,  p.  2,  gives  part  of  the  inscrip- 
tion, and  thinks  it  may  belong  to  the 
Ratta  dynasty  ;  he  also  gives  a  photo- 
graph of  the  temple  and  a  plan.  After 
the  facade  comes  a  passage  6  ft.  10  In. 
broad,  then  a  wall  with  6  pilasters, 
from  the  capitals  of  which  hang  down 
representations  of  cobras.  The  inner 
chamber  is  quite  plain,  and  is  about 
.32  ft.  sq.  Tents  are  now  kept  in  it, 
and  the  door  is  locked. 

The  second  Jain  Temple  is  within  the 
Commissariat  Store  Yard,  and  is  very 
much  handsomer  than  that  outside. 
The  roof  is  a  most  complicated  piece 
of  carving,  with  eaves  about  2  ft. 
broad,  which  seem  to  rest  on  the  bar- 
like  projections  from  the  pillars.  The 
roof  outside  rises  in  tiers,  but  the  in- 
side is  circular.  The  principal  entrance 
faces  the  N.W.,  and  has  one  elephant 
remaining  at  the  side,  much  mutilated. 
To  the  top  of  the  domed  roof  inside  is 
16|  ft.  There  is  a  quadruple  pendant 
in  the  centre.  At  the  lowest  circle 
there  are  figures  of  Jain  deities,  then 
5  rows  of  niches  with  small  figures, 
but  the  lowest  row  is  empty.  The 
niches  are  shell-shaped.  There  are  4 
portals,  7  ft.  sq.  each,  and  each  with  4 
black  basalt  pillars,  7  ft.  8  in.  high,  3 
ft.  of  which  is  the  base  forming  part 
of  the  stylobate,  which  is  also  3  ft. 
high.  These  pillars  are  4  ft.  6  in.  round. 
This  leads  to  an  inner  chamber,  the 
roof  of  which  is  open  in  the  centre, 
and  supported  by  4  pillars,  between 
which  and  the  wall  is  a  passage  4  ft.  6 
in.  broad.  The  breadth  of  the  pillars  is 
2  ft.  3  in.  The  wall  is  ornamented  with 
8  pilasters  £ind  4  denii-pil^sters.    The 


Sect.  II. 


HoiUe  10. — Belgdon. 


235 


height  of  the  inner  chamber  to  the 
opening  in  the  roof  is  12  ft.  9  in.,  and 
that  of  the  pillars  8  ft.  5  in.  This  cham- 
ber leads  to  a  2nd  inner  chamber  8  ft. 
8  in.  from  E.  to  W.,  and  8  ft.  from  N. 
to  S.  This  leads  to  a  3rd  inner  cham- 
ber, which  is  very  dark ;  it  is  8  ft.  5  in. 
from  E.  to  W.,  and  7  ft.  1  in.  from  N. 
to  S.  The  image  was  here,  but  there 
is  now  merely  a  place  for  it,  with  an 
elephant  and  lion  in  relief.  Mr.  Bur- 
gess says,  "  The  pillars  of  the  temple 
are  square  and  massive,  but  relieved 
by  having  all  the  principal  facets,  the 
triangles  on  the  base  and  neck  carved 
with  floral  ornamentations.  In  the 
front  wall  of  this  chamber,  which  is 
3  ft.  7  in.  thick,  are  2  small  recesses, 
closed  by  sliding  stones  1  ft.  9  in.  high. 
The  door  leading  from  the  Mandap  to 
the  temple  has  been  carved  with  un- 
common care.  On  the  centre  of  the 
lintel  is  a  Tlrthankar,  and  above  the 
cornice  are  4  squat  human  figures.  On 
tlie  neat  colonettes  of  the  jambs  are  5 
bands  with  human  groups,  in  some  of 
which  the  figures  are  little  more  than 
an  inch  high,  yet  in  high  relief  ;  in- 
side this  is  a  band  of  rampant  SinlutSj 
with  a  sort  of  high  frill  round  the  neck 
of  each.  Outside  the  colonettes  is  a 
band  of  chahvas  or  sacred  geese,  an- 
other of  Sitihag,  and  then  one  of  hu- 
man figures,  mostly  on  bended  knees." 
To  the  N.W.  of  this  temple  is  the  Jdm'i 
Masjid.  The  faQade  measures  81  ft.  5 
in.  in  length,  and  the  mosque  is  58  ft.  7 
in.  deep.  In  the  S.  wall  is  a  well  with 
water  at  the  depth  of  16  ft.  This 
mosque  is  called  the  Masjid  i  Safd. 
Over  the  entrance  is  a  Persian  inscrip- 
tion, very  difficult  to  read  ;  it  may  be 
translated  as  follows  : — 

By  the  auspices  of  the  Lord  of  happy  con- 

jonctures, 
Whose  Court  is  exalted,  whose  throne  is  like 

heaven,  and  whose  place  is  that  of  Jibrail, 
Was  built  this  Mosque,  whose   door  is  the 

point  to  which  the  Faithful  turn  in  prayer. 
It  became  the  Defence  and  Refuge  to  Isldin, 
And  on  a  happy  day^  by  the  auspices  of  As'ad 

(Most  Happy)  EhaUt 
The  foundation  was  laid  and  the  work  brought 

to  completion. 
The  princes  and  nobles  of  the  Dakhau,  from 

their  good  fortune. 
Mom  and  eve,  offer  their  salutations  in  His 

Court, 
In  the  year  a.h.  924. 


There  is  a  round  seat,  very  solid  and 
heavy,  and  about  4  ft.  high,  in  front  of 
the  mosque,  on  which  As'ad  Kh4n  is 
said  to  have  often  sprung  when  dressed 
in  full  armour.  This  As'ad  Khdn  Suri, 
otherwise  called  Khurram  Turk,  was  a 
gigantic  warrior,  who  held  Belgdou 
against  all  assail|ints  for  a  numl^r  of 
years  in  the  beginning  of  the  16th  cen- 
tury. Belgdon  was  taken  by  Khwa- 
jah  Ma^mM  Gaw&n,  the  general  of 
Muhammad  Sh^,  in  1472.  The  dis- 
trict jail  at  Belgdon  has  only  about 
130  prisoners  with  short  sentences. 
The  others  are  sent  to  Gokdk.  There 
is  no  place  for  women  in  the  hospital 
of  this  jail,  and  neither  females  nor 
boys  are  taught  anything.  The  prison- 
ers are  not  employed  in  manufactures, 
nor  in  anything  but  breaking  stones  and 
gardening.  There  are  no  cells  for  so- 
litary confinement  except  those  for 
condemned  criminals.  There  are  2 
cemeteries,  the  new  one,  which  is  well 
kept  and  planted  with  flowers,  being 
IJ  m.  W.  of  the  fort.  The  old  ceme- 
t«y  is  at  the  N.  end  of  the  bdzAr.  It 
is  shaded  with  many  trees,  and  sur- 
rounded by  a  high  wall.  It  was  closed 
in  January,  1874.  Lieut.  Pawlet 
Shakespeare,  who  was  mortally 
wounded  at  Samangarh  on  the  29th  of 
Sept.  1844,  is  buried  here,  as  is  Lieut. 
E.  M.  Irvine,  of  the  Madras  Artillery, 
killed  at  the  same  place.  St.  Mary's 
Church  at  Belgdon  is  dedicated  to  St. 
Mary  the  Virgin.  It  stands  in  the 
cantonment  N.W.  of  the  town,  is  130 
ft.  long  from  B.  to  W.,  40  ft.  wide 
from  N.  to  S.,  and  60  ft.  high.  It  was 
consecrated  in  1869.  There  is  a  hand- 
some Memorial  Cross  in  the  compound 
to  23  sergeants  of  H.M.'s  64th,  who 
died  during  the  Persian  and  Indian 
campaigns,  1856  to  1858.  After  seeing 
this  church,  the  tomb  of  As'ad  Khdn 
may  be  visited.  It  is  at  the  N.  end  of 
the  Sadar  bdzdr,  100  yds.  to  the  S.  of 
the  Roman  Catholic  Church.  It  is  a 
plain  square  building  of  stone,  with  a 
dome.  There  is  no  inscription.  A 
number  of  ostrich  eggs  are  suspended 
in  the  inner  room  where  the  actual 
tomb  is.  This  place  had  a  revenue  of 
6000  rs.,  which  has  all  been  seized  by 
Government.    The  Race  Course  lies  to 


236 


Eottte  10. — Sdwantwddi  to  Belgdoh, 


Sect.  II. 


the  N.W.  of  this  building,  and  it  is  a 
pleasant  drive  to  it.  The  town  has 
nothing  remarkable  about  it.  It  was 
greatly  improved  in  1848  by  a  sub- 
scription of  the  inhabitants.  Govern- 
ment, in  acknowledgment  of  their  li- 
berality, made  an  annual  grant  of  £600 
for  the  same  purpose  At  Sutgati,  14 
m.  from  Belg^n,  and  the  first  stage 
on  the  road  to  Fund,  there  are  2  In- 
dian fig-trees  of  very  great  size.  The 
first  is  near  the  T.  B. ;  the  stem  forms 
a  wall  of  timber  extending  40  ft.  The 
tree  rises  to  a  great  height,  and  the 
branches  spread  out  100  ft.  round  the 
trunk.  The  other  tree  is  about  1  m. 
from  the  banglA,  and  though  not  re- 
markable for  height,  covers  a  larger 
surface  of  ground.  Belgdon  is  usually 
considered  a  very  healthy  place.  There 
is  good  shooting  within  12  m.,  and  al- 
together it  is  a  very  popular  station. 

sights  in  the  vicinity  op 
belgAo^. 

Xddarojiy  anciently  called  E^dara- 
valli,  a  village  on  the  river  Malparba, 
is  3  m.  from  Mugut  Ehdn  Hubll, 
which  is  the  2nd  stage  on  the  Dhdr- 
w4d  road  from  Belgdon.  There  is 
a  temple  to  Shankar  Deva,  of  black 
stone,  in  the  bed  of  the  river,  and  in- 
accessible during  floods.  The  distance 
as  the  crow  flies  from  the  fort  of  Bel- 
gdon  is  about  18  m.  The  central 
shrine  is  8  ft.  3^  in.  sq.,  and  each  of 
the  2  side  ones  5  ft.  64  in.  The  pillars 
of  the  Mandap  and  portico  to  the  cen- 
tral temple  remain  ;  but  the  roofs  and 
the  capitals  of  all  the  columns  have 
been  carried  off  by  the  river.  A  stone 
tablet  3J  ft.  high,  and  1  ft.  8  broad, 
was  removed  by  Mr.  Fleet,  C.S.,  from 
the  front  of  the  temple  to  the  village 
of  |K4daroli,  where  it  now  is.  It  is 
written  in  old  Kanarese,  and  mentions 
a  gift  of  5  golden  Gady&nas  to  this 
temple  by  Dandandyaka  in  the  year 
of  the  Shaka  era  997= A.D.  1076.  This 
Dandan^yaka,  whose  proper  name 
seems  to  have  been  KeshavAdityadeva, 
was  the  general  of  the  Kalydni  sove- 
reign Someshvara  Deva  II.,  known  as 
Bhuvanaikanakadeva.  As  this  temple 
is  interesting  from  its  antiquity  and 
its  singular  position  in  the  bed  of  the 


river,  the  traveller  may  like  to  visit 
it,  particularly  as  it  is  the  first  march 
in  a  tour  of  some  interest.  The  temple 
is  57  ft.  long  from  E.  to  W.,  and  25  ft. 
broad  from  N.  to  S. 

Sdmpgdon.  —  From  Eidaroli  to 
S4mpgdoii  is  7|  m.  N.  by  £.  At  Sdmp- 
g&on  is  a  mosque,  38  ft.  from  E.  to  W., 
and  about  the  same  from  N.  to  S.  It 
is  a  well  proportioned  and  pleasing 
structure.  Over  the  Mihrdb  is  a  hand- 
some Tughri  inscription,  containing 
parts  of  the  6th,  12th,  and  61st  SiiraJis 
of  the  Kur'&n.  About  7  m.  E.  of  Sdmp- 
gdo&  is  the  village  of  Bail-Hangal, 
where  is  a  temple  which  dates  from 
about  A.D.  1200.  This  temple  is  about 
64  ft.  long,  and  33  ft.  broad.  There  is 
an  inscription  on  a  large  stone  slab  in 
front  of  it,  and  also  on  another  in  a 
ditch  close  by.  These  ought  to  be 
translated. 

Saundati. — About  18  m.  to  the  E. 
of  Bail-Hangal  is  the  town  of  Saun- 
dati. There  is  a  temple  here  to  Bha- 
vdnl  It  is  in  the  fort,  and  was  buUt 
by  the  Desdi  of  Nargund.  In  the 
Kacheri  are  2  inscriptions  in  E^anarese 
and  Sanskrit.  The  first  refers  to  Mal- 
likdrjuna  and  Lak^hmi  -  Deva,  who 
lived  in  Venu-grama  or  Belgaou.  The 
date  is  Shaka  1151  =A,D.  1229.  The 
inscriptions  probably  refer  to  the  Ratta 
dynasty.  A  critical  version  of  both  is 
much  required.  About  1  m.  due  S.  of 
Saundati  is  the  celebrated  temple  of 
Yellamd  at  Pdrasgad.  It  is  built  in 
the  bed  of  the  Sarasvati,  a  small  stream 
which  runs  E.  from  the  hills  above 
Saundati.  The  temple  is  said  to  be 
2000  years  old,  but  was  rebuilt  in  the 
beginning  of  the  13th  century,  and 
again,  except  perhaps  the  shrine,  with- 
in the  last  200  years.  It  stands  in  the 
middle  of  a  court,  surrounded  by  ar- 
cades with  pointed  arches.  In  the  W. 
gate  are  some  pillars  like  those  of  the 
Jain  temples  at  Belgdon,  and  on  the 
base  of  one  is  an  inscription  covered 
with  whitewash.  To  this  temple  mar- 
ried people  desirous  of  offspring  re- 
pair ;  if  their  wish  be  granted,  the 
children  are  dedicated  to  the  service 
of  the  goddess  Yellamd,  a  circumstance 
which  leads  to  the  most  atrocious  im- 
morality.   Processions  of  hundreds  of 


Sect.  II. 


Route  11. — Belgdoh  to  Dhdrwdd. 


237 


naked  women  used  to  be  made  to  this 
temple,  but  these  have  now  been 
stopped  by  the  (Government.  Great 
numbers  of  people,  however,  stiU  re- 
sort to  the  place,  which  is  a  hot-bed  of 
infamy. 

Suli, — 9  m.  to  the  N.E.  of  Saundatl 
is  the  village  of  Hull,  where  is  a 
temple  of  Panchalinga  Deva,  of  which 
Mr.  Burgess,  in  his  admirable  Report 
of  the  first  season's  operations  in  the 
Belg&on  and  Ealadgi  Districts,  has 
given  a  photograph.  The  temple  is 
91  ft  long,  and  71  ft.  broad.  It  was 
built  by  the  Jains,  who  have  hewn  off 
all  the  lintels  except  that  over  the  en- 
trance to  the  shrine  at  the  S.  end, 
which  has  the  finest  door.  The  temple 
faces  the  E.  On  2  pillars  of  the  outer 
Mandap  are  2  Eanarese  inscriptions. 
The  temple  probably  dates  from  1100 
A.D.  At  the  foot  of  the  hill  to  the  N. 
of  the  village  is  a  group  of  ruined 
temples ;  one  built  of  hard  compact 
bluish  stone  has  a  Mandap  43  ft.  from 
N.  to  S.  The  4  central  pillars  are 
similar  to  those  at  Belg4on,  only  the 
snake  is  wanting  on  the  bracket.  The 
short  pillars  on  the  screen  are  very  va- 
ried, hexagonal,  octagonal,  and  circu- 
lar. The  door  of  the  shrine  is  of  por- 
phyry, richly  carved,  and  on  the  lintel 
is  Shri  or  Lak^hmi,  with  elephants 
pouring  water  over  her.  Near  the 
ruins  of  an  old  temple  close  by  is  a 
large  inscription,  and  all  around  are 
fragments  of  buildings,  slabs  of  gra- 
nite and  porphyry,  and  pieces  of  in- 
scriptions. *•  There  are  carved  stones 
enough  to  furnish  a  museum  or  illus- 
trate a  mythology."  At  6  m.  to  the 
N.W.  from  Huli  is  the  village  of  Ma- 
nauli,  where  are  8  temples  to  Pancha- 
linga Deva,  of  coarse-grained  stone, 
no  way  remarkable  for  carving.  The 
snake  head  on  the  bracket  and  their 
general  style  would  lead  us  to  assign 
these  temples  to  the  same  age  as  those 
at  Belgdon,  that  is,  to  the  end  of  the 
12th  century.  From  Manauli  to  BA- 
dAmi  is  2  marches,  but  BddAmi  will 
be  described  in  a  different  Route. 


ROUTE    11. 

BELGAON  TO  KITTtrE  AND  DHIRWAD. 

The  stages  to  DhArwAd  are  as  fol- 
lows : — 


Prom 


Belgdon 
Halaga      .    , 
Bagalwadf 
M.  K.  Hubli, 
Hnlikatta 
Kittilr      .    , 
Tegiir    . 
Yanketpiir    , 
Mominkatta . 


To 


Halaga  . 
Bagalwa^i         i 
MugutKhdiiHuLli 
Hulikatta 
Kittdr       . 
Tegur     . 
Yanketpur 
Mominkattii  . 
Dharwii^  . 

Total     . 


Miles. 


6 

a 

6 

0 
(5 
4 
2 
G 
6 


48 


At  1  m.  beyond  the  village  of 
Mugut  KhAn  ki  Hubll  the  Malparba 
river  must  be  crossed,  with  very  deep 
sand  on  the  W.  bank,  and  in  the  dry 
season  about  1^  ft.  of  water.  After 
this  the  road  becomes  more  hilly  and 
woody,  with  large  trees  and  tufts  of 
bambii  by  the  river  side,  where  there 
is  a  short  but  steep  ascent.  Before 
reaching  Kittiir,  at  \  m.  from  the 
Tappa,  there  is  a  temple  on  the  right- 
hand  side  of  the  road. 

Xittiir.— To  see  the  fort  of  Kittiir 
the  traveller  will  turn  down  to  the 
left  for  about  1  m.  He  wiU  proceed 
along  JumWAt  BAzAr,  passing  the 
post-office,  school,  and  police-station. 
He  will  then  come  to  a  gate-way, 
and  turning  to  the  right  beneath 
it,  will  see  a  Mafh,  or  religious  house, 
and  the  cemetery  where  the  DesAl 
Mall  Shivaji  and  his  wives  are  buried. 
About  100  yds.  beyond  this  he  will 
come  to  another  gateway,  and  about 
160  yds.  from  that  will  turn  to  the 
left  and  find  the  ruins  of  the  fort. 
Kittiir  was  the  fief  of  a  DesAf  who 
received  investiture  from  the  RAjA  of 
KolhApiir.    When  Col.  Wellesley  was 


238 


Houte  11. — Belgdoh  to  DMnodd, 


Sect.  XL 


marching  on  Fund  in  1803,  this  chief, 
Mall  Shivaji,  was  of  great  service  to 
him  (see  Wellington's  Despatches, 
vol.  iii.,  p.  252),  but  the  PeshwA  was 
anxious  to  obtain  the  fort,  and  Col. 
Wellesley  wm  obliged  to  remonstrate 
with  our  Government  to  save  the 
Desdf  from  being  dispossessed.  In 
September,  1824,  Shivajl  died  without 
children,  and  the  British  Government 
having  annexed  the  Peshwd's  do- 
minions claimed  the  reversion  of  the 
lief.  The  family  applied  for  per- 
mission to  adopt,  which  Mr.  Thacke- 
ray, the  Collector,  refused  to  grant 
without  the  sanction  of  the  Bombay 
Government.  He  assumed  charge  of 
the  district,  and  was  directed  to  retain 
it  pending  inquiry.  On  the  morning 
of  the  23rd  of  October,  1824,  he  was 
encamped  without  the  walls  of  the 
fort  with  a  company  of  N.  Artillery 
and  one  of  N.  I.,  when  the  gates  of  the 
fort  were  shut,  and  on  his  attempting 
to  force  an  entrance  the  garrison  sal- 
lied out  and  overwhelmed  his  party. 
Mr.  Thackeray,  Capt.  Black,  and 
Lieut.  Dighton,  commanding  the  es- 
cort, were  killed,  Capt.  Sewell  mor- 
tally wounded,  and  Messrs.  Stevenson 
and  Elliot,  assistants  to  the  Collector, 
carried  prisoners  into  the  fort,  where 
they  were  threatened  with  death  in 
case  of  an  assault.  On  this,  a  force 
consisting  of  H.M.'s  46th  regt.,  1 
Bombay  European  regt.,  the  3rd,  6th, 
14th,  and  23rd  N.  L,  a  brigade  of  Ma- 
dras and  Bombay  artillery,  and  the 
4th  and  8th  L.  C,  under  Lieut.-CoL 
Beacon,  were  sent  to  reduce  the  place. 
On  the  3rd  of  December  an  attempt 
was  made  to  storm,  when  John  Col- 
lins Munro,  C.S.,  nephew  of  Sir  T. 
Munro,  was  mortally  wounded.  On 
the  evening  of  the  4th,  the  walls  having 
been  breached,  the  garrison  sur- 
rendered on  condition  that  their  lives 
should  be  spared.  In  1832  another 
formidable  insurrection  occun-ed, 
which  was  suppressed  by  the  zeal  and 
courage  of  2  Patels,  named  Linga 
Gowah  and  Krishna  Rdo,  who  were 
rewarded  with  grants  of  land.  A  line 
of  stones  shows  where  the  gateway  was 
and  where  Thackeray  fell.  There  is  a 
ditch  here  about  16  ft.  deep,  partly 


filled  up  with  herbage.  About  80  yds. 
beyond  this  is  a  2nd  ditch  and  re- 
mains of  the  fort  walls,  and  part  of  a 
stone  gateway,  solidly  built ;  pro- 
ceeding E.  you  pass  a  temple  very 
recently  built,  a  very  shabby  struc- 
ture, and  you  come  to  a  stone  cJui- 
butrahf  or  terrace,  under  2  magni- 
ficent trees,  a  tamarind  and  a  pipal 
tree.  About  150  yds.  E.  of  this  are 
the  ruins  of  the  fort  palace,  and 
the  fort  extends  some  way  beyond 
them,  and  is  at  this  point  defended  by 
a  wet  ditch.  Although  so  completely 
ruined,  it  may  still  be  seen  that  it  was 
a  strong  place  ;  the  reason  of  its  utter 
demolition  in  so  short  a  time  is  that 
the  people  of  the  town  carried  away 
the  stones  and  building  materials  to 
construct  new  houses.  About  100  yds, 
beyond  the  fort  is  a  place  where  the 
R&nls  are  said  to  have  had  a  palace, 
where  the  disturbance  began.  Beyond 
this,  going  S.,  is  a  most  curious  build- 
ing, a  temple  built  by  Dharamapa, 
an  oilman,  a  subject  of  the  last  Bdja 
of  Kittiir.  There  is  a  sort  of  gallery 
about  20  ft.  from  the  ground,  which 
passes  along  the  centre  of  the  building 
and  projects  2  wings  which  come  to- 
wards the  road.  In  this  gallery  are  a 
number  of  figures.  In  the  centre  is 
the  Bdja,  and  on  his  left  his  2  wives, 
Chinnawa  and  Trawa,  who  caused  the 
death  of  Thackeray  and  the  other 
officers.  On  the  RdjA's  right  are  the 
statues*  of  his  ministers.  At  the  end 
of  each  group  is  the  statue  of  an 
English  officer  in  knee-breeches  and  a 
round  hat.  Beyond  this  is  the  police- 
station,  and  at  a  Uttle  distance  the  S. 
gate  of  the  town.  The  pop.  of  the 
town  is  7166.  Beyond  the  S.  gate  is  a 
very  extensive  tank,  and  beyond  it 
the  road  turns  W.  and  joins  the  main 
road  to  DhtovAd.  There  is  a  very 
good  T.  B.  at  Tegiir.  The  red  dust 
along  this  road  is  very  trying. 

Bhdrwdd. — The  T.  B.  here  is  1  m. 
W.  of  the  fort,  and  is  a  well-built,  red 
house,  with  nice  grounds  around  it.  To 
the  N.,  50  yds.  off,  is  an  obelisk  to  Mr. 
Thackeray,  28  ft.  high.  There  is  a 
Persian  inscription  on  the  S.  side,  a 
Kanarese  on  the  W.  side,  one  in  the 
Sanskrit  on  the  N. ,  and  one  in  Eng- 


Sect.  IJ. 


Eoute  11. — DMrwdd. 


239 


lish    on    the 
follows  : — 


E.,  which    last    is    as 


Erected  by  their  Friends 
to  the  Memory  of 

ST.   JOHN   THACKERAY,   ESQ., 

Principal  Collector  and  Political  Agent, 

S.  Mardtha  Dodb, 

Killed  in  the  Inaorrection  at 

Kittur,  October  23rd,  1824, 

and  of 

JOHN   COLLINS   MUNBO,  ESQ., 

■    Sub-Collector, 
Who  died  December  16th,  of  a  wound 
received  at  the  reduction 
of  that  place. 

DhdrwAd  is  a  large  open  town,  with  a 
pop.  of  27,136.  It  is  in  a  plain  and  was 
once  defended  by  a  low  mad  wall  and  a 
ditch  of  no  strength.*    On  the  N.  is 
the  fort,  which  is  strong,  though  the 
defences  are  of   mud  and  irregular. 
It  has  a  double  wall,  and  an  outer  and 
inner  ditch  from  26  to  30  ft.  wide,  and 
nearly  as  many  ft.  deep.    It  was  taken 
from  the  Mar^thas  by  Gaidar  'All  in 
1778,  and  stood  a  siege  in  1789  from  a 
British  force  co-operating   with  the 
Mardtha  army  under  Parshurdm  Bhdo. 
It  then  belonged  to  Tlpii,  and  one  of 
his    ablest   generals,    Badru*z-zam4n, 
with  7000  regulars  and  3000  irregulars, 
having    thrown  himself  into  it,  de- 
fended it  with  great  spirit.    The  first 
operation  took  place  on  October  30th, 
when  an  attack  was  made  on  a  party 
of  the  garrison  that  had  advanced  out- 
side the  town.    They  were  driven  in, 
with   the  loss  of  3  guns  and  many 
killed  and  wounded.   The  native  town 
was  then  taken  by  storm,  in  which 
Capt.  Little  and  Lieut.  Forster,  who 
first  mounted  the  wall,  were  wounded, 
the   latter    mortally.     Besides   these, 
the  British  lost  62  killed  and  wounded. 
Iliey  made  over  the  place  to  the  Ma- 
rathas,  and  returned  to  camp,  and  had 
no  sooner  done  so  than  the  garrison 
rallied,  and,  after  a  severe  conflict,  in 
which  600  Mardthas  were  killed,  and 
at  least  as  many  of  their  own  party, 
re-occupied  the  town.    After  a  truce 
to  bum  and  bury  the  dead,  the  fight 
was   renewed,  and  the  Mardthas  re- 
took the  place.    The  English  had  no 
battering  guns,  and  the  fort  was  too 
strong  to  be  taken  by  assault,  but  a 

*  Grant  Duff,  vol.  iii.  p.  48. 


regt.  of  Europeans  and  a  native  corps 
were  sent  under  Lieut.-Col.  Frederick, 
of  the  Bombay  Army,  to  reinforce  the 
besiegers.  Col.  Frederick  reached 
Dhdrwdd  on  Bee.  28th,  and  immedi- 
ately took  command  and  commenced 
operations.  As  fast  as  the  Mardtha 
guns,  which  were  now  manned  b^  the 
English,  made  a  breach,  the  enemy 
repaired  it ;  and  when  the  Briti^ 
troops  advanced  to  the  assault  on  Feb. 
7th,  they  were  repulsed  with  the  loss 
of  86  men.  Col.  Frederick  died  of 
chagrin  at  the  failure,  and  was  suc- 
ceeded by  Major  Sartorius,  and  at 
length,  after  a  protracted  siege  of  29 
weeks,  the  brave  Badru'z-zamdn  sur- 
rendered on  condition  of  being  allowed 
to  march  out  with  all  the  honours  of 
war.  The  alHes  took  possession  of  the 
fort  on  April  4th,  and  the  Mar^thas 
then  attacked  Badru'z-zamdn  as  he 
was  marching  away,  wounded  him, 
and  made  him  prisoner,  with  many 
others,  and  dispersed  the  rest  of  his 
forces  on  pretext  of  his  having  de- 
stroyed some  of  his  stores  after  he  had 
suiTcndered.  In  September,  1801,* 
Col.  Wellesley,  afterwards  Buke  of 
Wellington,  expressed  his  opinion  that 
Dh^w^d  could  be  taken  by  a  coup  de 
main,  and  he  drew  up  a  plan  of  attack 
on  the  S.W.  side.  In  1803  Col.  Wel- 
lesley gave  a  very  remarkable  proof  of 
his  confidence  in  Bdbiiji  §indhia,  who 
then  held  the  fort  with  very  dubious 
iiitentions  as  regarded  the  British. 
He  invited  Col.  Wellesley  to  an  enter- 
tainment in  the  fort,  and  his  invita- 
tion was  accepted,  to  the  surprise  even 
of  BAbiijl  himself,  who,  in  remarking 
afterwards  that  he  had  not  taken  ad- 
vantage of  it,  said,  "  For  I  am  still  a 
MarAtha."t  In  1814  the  same  Kiladdr, 
having  come  to  pay  his  respects  to 
Bdjl  Rdo  PeshwA,  was  told  to  give  up 
the  fort  to  Trimbakjl  DAnglia.  His 
answer  was  worthy  a  chivalrous  baron 
of  feudal  times.  "If  your  Highness 
will  send  a  gentleman  to  relieve  me  in 
the  command,  or  if  you  will  send 
my  secretary,  in  your  own  name, 
I  will  deliver  the  keys  to  him,  but  I 
will  never  give  over  the  fort  to  such 

*  Despatches,  vol.  I.  p.  860. 
t  Despatches,  vol.  iii.  p.  405. 


240 


Eoute  11. — Bdgdoh  to  Dhdrtodd, 


Sect.  II. 


a  person  as  Trimbakjl  DAnglia."  For 
this  speech  he  was  seized  as  soon  as  he 
left  the  PeshwA's  tent,  bound  and 
tortured  by  Trimbakjl,  until  a  promise 
of  surrender  was  extorted.  He  then 
gave  the  keys  to  his  secretary,  a  Br&h- 
man,  on  whom  he  could  rely,  and  the 
latter,  accompanied  by  a  body  of 
troops,  proceeded  to  Dhdrwdd.  No 
sooner,  however,  had  he  reached  the 
gate  than  he  asked  leave  to  go  a  little 
in  advance,  and  as  soon  as  he  had 
entered  he  oaused  all  the  gates  to  be 
closed,  and  opened  such  a  fire  upon 
Trimbakjl  and  his  men  as  compelled 
them  to  retire  with  precipitation.  In 
1837  DhirwM  was  the  scene  of  such 
violent  feuds  between  the  Brdhmans 
and  Ling^yats  that  Government  was 
compelled  to  interfere.  The  cemetery 
at  Dhdrwid  is  a  little  to  the  S.W.  of 
the  fort.  Here  are  buried  Capt.  Black 
and  Lieuts.  SeweU  and  Dighton,  of  the 
Madras  H.  Artillery,  *•  who  lost  their 
lives  in  gallantly  attempting  to  quell 
the  insurrection  at  Kittiir,  on  the  23rd 
of  October,  1824."  Their  monument 
was  erected  "by  their  tliree  friends 
who  witnessed  their  devoted  conduct 
at  that  unfortunate  affair."  The  tablet 
to  the  nephew  of  Sir  T.  Munro  is  thus 
inscribed  : — 

To  the  Memory  of 

JOHN   COLLINS    MUNllO,    ESQ., 

of  the  Madras  Civil  Service, 

Who,  being  present  with  the  force 

assembled  for  the  reduction  of  Kittiir, 

was  unfortunately  carried  by  his 

ardent  temper  to  share  in  the  storm  of 

the  enemies'  works, 

on  the  3rd  of  December,  1824, 

when  he  received  a  mortal  wound, 

of  which  he  died  on  the  11th  of  December, 

1824. 
At  the  early  age  of  26  years. 


This  Monument  was  erected  by  his  Uncle, 
Major-Qeneral  Sir  Thomas  Munro. 

The  church  at  BhirwAd  is  about  1  m. 
to  the  S.  of  the  T.  B.  It  belongs  to 
the  Basle  German  Evangelical  Mission, 
was  built  in  1844-45,  and  dedicated 
Bee.  14th,  1845.  It  is  76  ft  long,  42 
broad,  and  24  high.  The  tower  is 
40  ft.  high.  The  service  by  the  mis- 
sionaries is  in  Kanarese,  and  once  on 
Sunday  in  English.  There  is  a  small 
cemetery  att<v»hed,  in  which  several  of 


the  missionaries  and  their  wires  and 
children  are  buried.  The  cantonments 
for  the  native  infantry,  to  the  N.W. 
of  the  fort,  are  quite  2  m.  off.  The 
fort  itself  looks  very  desolate  and 
wretched,  and  there  is  nothing  re- 
markable to  be  seen  either  there  or  in 
the  town. 

Ddndilli, — 3  stages  on  the  road  to 
Goa,  in  N.  Eanara,  and  34  m.  S.W.  of 
Dh^i^rwAd,  are  the  jungles  of  Dindilli, 
teeming  with  every  sort  of  game  the 
pursuit  of  which  can  amuse  and  ex- 
cite the  sportsman.  Here  tigers  and 
wild  buffaloes  are  to  be  found  in 
plenty,  and  elephants  are  said  to  come 
up  from  the  S.  after  the  rains.  Here 
the  most  renowned  sportsman  in  W. 
India,  Col.  Peyton,  resides,  and. has  for 
many  years  killed  with  his  own  gun  15 
to  20  tigers  annually.  The  traveller 
may  proceed  to  Goa  this  way,  and 
then  by  Bombay  to  sea.  The  stages 
are : — 


Dh4rwa4  Fort 

Gate 
Ealkerra 
Hallihdl     .    . 

D&ndiUi  . 
Jagalpet.h  (no 

supplies) 
X  KondAptir  r. 
Kond&piir 
Funda        .    . 

S.  Jago   . 


Ealkerra 

HaUihil     .    . 
Ddndilli      (no 

supplies) 
Jagalpeth 
CMndaw&4i  . 


Fundi    . 

S.  Jago  on  the 

island  of  Goa 
Faiyim,        or 

New  Goa 

Total      . 


X. 

F. 

10 

U 

11 

12 

? 

12 
18 

6 

1 

15 
10 
11 

1 
6 
6 

8 

4 

110 

5i 

Sect.  II. 


Route  12. — UaUi, 


211 


ROUTE   12. 
dhAbwad  to  hubli,  gadak,  Am) 

LAKKUNDi. 

•      ■ 

The  stages  are  as  follows : — 


From 


lUyapiJLr 

Hubli 

Silgupa 

NeUiirl 

A'nikeri 

Halkofa 


To 


R&yapiir . 
Hubli 
Silgupd  . 
Nelluri 
A'nikerl  . 
Halko^     . 
Gadak     . 

Total 


Miles. 


6 
6 
8 
6 
7 
6 
8 


47 


The  road  as  far  as  Huhlf  R4ydn,  or 
Boyal  Hahli,  is  very  good. 

Hitbli. — ^This  is  a  most  flourishing 
and  increasing  town,  with  a  pop.  of 
37,961.    The  Pdrsl  mail  contractor  has 
a  house  |  of  m.  from  the  outskirts  of 
the  town  and  from  the  road  to  Gadak. 
The  post-oflBice  is  within  a  few  yds. 
of  this  house,  and  here  the  traveller 
will  change  horses.    Near  Hubli  and 
for  the  rest  of  this  route  the  most  re- 
markable objects  are  the  Jain  temples. 
A  full  account  of  this  curious  sect  will 
be  found  in  Prof.  H.  H.  Wilson's  paper 
in  the  "Asiatic  Researches,"  vol.  xvii., 
and  Mr.  Erskine's  **  Literary  Trans,  of 
Bombay,"  vol.  iii.,  p.  494.    It  is  suffi- 
cient here  to  say  they  hold  an  inter- 
mediate place  between  the  Buddhists 
and  the  Brahmanists,  but  approach 
more  closely  to  the  Buddhists.    Like 
the  Brdhmans,  they  have  castes,  their 
priests  never  eat  flesh,  and  do  not 
venerate  the  relics  of  saints.    On  the 
other  hand,  like  the  Buddhists,  they 
disavow  the  Yedas  and  the    Hindii 
deities,  and   in   place  of   them    the 
Jains  worship  the  24  Tirthankars  or 
Jinas,  i.e.,   sanctified  teachers.     The 
Jains,  like  the  Buddhists,  lived  origi- 
nally in  celibacy  in  monasteries.  They 
select  their  priests  from  the  children 
of  all  classes  of  the  community,  pre- 
serve as  their  sacred  language  the  PAll 
or  Prdkfit,  a  dialect  closely  resembling  I 

[^owiSay— 1880.] 


the  Magadhl  or  vernacular  tongue  of 
S.  Bahdr,  have  nearly  the  same  tradi- 
tional  chronology,  do   not  eat  after 
sunset,  and  sweep  the  spot*  on  which 
they  sit  down,  for  fear  of  destroying 
animal  life.    Both  sects,  too,  maintain 
in  common  with  the  school  of  Ean4da 
the  doctrine  of  eternal  atoms  or  ele- 
ments.   The  Buddhists  have  entirely 
disappeared  from  India,  but  the  Jains 
remain   in  considerable   numbers   in 
Mdrwdd,  Gujar&t,  the  S.  Eonkan,  and 
S.  Mar&tha  coimtry,  Kanida,  and  Ma- 
labar.   Their   priests  may  be  known 
by  a  covering  over  the  mouth  to  pre- 
vent them  destroying   insect  life  in 
breathing,  and  by  carrying  a  broom 
to  sweep  their  path  and  i)lace  where 
they  sit,  with  the  same  object.     It  is 
remarkable  that,  though  so  absurdly 
chary  of  animal  and  insect  life,  they 
regarded    the  infanticide  once    pre- 
valent in  E4thiawdd,  where  they  are 
very  numerous,  with  complete  indif- 
ference.!   The  T.  B.  at  HubU  is  on  the 
Gadak  road,  just  as  you  turn  off  to  the 
right  to  go  to  the  mail-contractor's. 
Hubli  is  one  of  the  principal  cotton 
marts  of  the  S.  Mardtha  country,  and 
is  also  interesting  as  having  been  the 
seat  of  one  of  the  earliest  English  fac- 
tories, which  in  1763  was  plundered  by 
Shivajl    of    goods    to    the  value    of 
27,629  rs.    In  the  old  fort  is  a  curi- 
ous   well  SO  ft.  deep,  the  water  of 
which  has  a  strong  mineral  taste.  The 
water  of  all  the  other  wells  is  excel- 
lent.    The  old  town  of   Hubli   was 
built  some   centuries  ago,   the   new 
town  by  Chintdman  Rdo  Patwardan 
of  Sdngli,  about  the  beginning  of  this 
century. 

SIGHTS  IN  THE  VICINITY  OP  HUBLf 

• 

If  the  traveller  is  curious  about 
temples,  he  may  spend  a  few  days  in 
going  from  Hubli  to  BankAptir,  Sa- 
vaniir,  Hangal,  Dewgiri,  Moti  Benniir, 
Chatr  and  Rdni  Benniir.  From  Hubli 
to  BankdpilLr  is  30  m.,  almost  due  S. 
along  an  excellent  road.  Bankapiir 
was  a  very  flourishing  place,  under  the 
Muljiammadan  Kings  of  the  Bakhan. 
It  is  now  desolate,  but  there  are  beau- 

*  Jour.  As.  Soc.  Bomb.,  1844,  vol.  ii.  p.  81. 
t  WilBon  on  InfiEuiticide,  p.  71. 


242 


EotUe  12. — Dhdrwdd   to  Iliihlt,  etc. 


Sect.  IT. 


t  if  111  temples  and  mosqnes  which  have 
never  been  described.*  At  Savaniir, 
0  m.  to  the  N.E.  of  Bankdptir,  there 
are  6  temples,  also  midescribed.  At 
HAngal,t  14  m.  to  the  S.W.  of  Bankiptir, 
there  is  a  large  and  yery  ancient  tem- 
ple dedicated  to  Jarkeshwara.  The 
carving  is  remarkable.  Opposite  the 
idol  is  a  place  c^ed  by  the  natives 
the  Katnal  or  "  lotus  of  Hdngal."  It 
is  an  octagonal  building,  and  the 
ceiling  is  formed  by  one  immense 
stone  20  ft.  in  diameter,  cut  into  the 
shape  of  a  lotus  and  resting  on  8 
pillars.  On  8  stones  adjoining  the 
pillars  are  sculptured  the  afh^adik- 
pdlaiiUf  or  guardians  of  the  eight  cardi- 
nal points.  Thousands  of  other  figures, 
some  seated,  some  standing,  are  sculp- 
tured in  various  parts  of  the  temple. 
According  to  Paur^nik  legend,  the 
B4kj^has,  or  demon,  E^chaka,  was 
destroyed  at  this  place.  Bengal  is 
surrounded  by  extensive  gardens  of 
betel  and  cocoa-nut  trees.  The  sugar 
cane  is  also  very  largely  cultivated. 
The  method  of  betel  culture  is  as  fol- 
lows : — ^When  the  betel  nuts  are  quite 
ripe  they  are  gathered  and  planted, 
with  the  husks  on,  at  intervals  of  4  ft. 
from  each  other,  and  in  square  patches. 
In  6  months  the  stem  begins  to  appear, 
and  in  about  12  years  it  reaches  the 
height  of  20  ft.,  when  it  throws  out 
branches  with  nuts.  In  its  full  growth 
it  is  60  ft.  high,  but  never  thicker 
than  5  or  6  inches  in  diameter.  In 
February  and  March  a  thick  green 
cover,  called  by  the  natives  adkihaliy 
forms  at  the  top  of  tiie  tree.  This  dries 
and  falls  off,  and  is  then  4  feet  long 
and  2  J  broad,  brown  outside  and  white 
in.  It  is  very  strong,  particularly 
after  having  been  soaked  in  water,  and 
is  used  by  the  natives  for  bags.  In  this 
cover  is  a  shell,  at  first  2  or  3  inches, 
and,  when  full  grown,  2  ft.  long.  As 
the  nuts  in  the  shell  get  ripe  it  gives 
way  and  falls  down.  Out  of  it  bursts 
a  large  bunch  of  nuts  divided  into  3 

*  For  the  inscriptions,  which  date  as  far  back 
as  1066  A.D.,  see  Mr.  Fleet's  Paper,  Ind.  Aiiti- 
quai^  vol.  iv„  p.  203. 

t  Hi&ngal  is  one  of  the  most  ancient  places 
In  the  I)h&rw^4  districts.  It  is  mentioned  in 
the  Purdnas,  under  the  name  of  "  Virdtnagara," 
the  city  of  King  Yizita. 


branches.  Each  bunch  contains  from 
3  to  4  sers  of  nuts.  The  tree  bears 
fruit  once  a  year,  and  shoots  out  two 
or  three  branches  at  a  time.  Each  of 
the  nuts  is  covered  with  a  shell  like 
that  of  a  cocoa-nut,  which  is  easily  re- 
moved by  the  gardeners.  When  fully 
ripe  the  nut  is  fit  for  seed,  bu^  not  to 
eat.  When  three-fourths  ripe  it  is  only 
eaten  by  the  poor,  and  is  then  called, 
in  Eanarese,  hettedike.  When  half 
ripe  it  is  the  chikni  adki,  and  is  then 
at  its  best  flavour,  and  sells  from  6 
to  8  rupees  per  man.  It  is  cut  into 
wafers  or  small  pieces,  and  is  then 
boiled  and  dried,  after  which  it  is 
called  the  Mfad  adki.  The  trees  live 
about  60  years. 

The  sugar  cane  is  of  four  kinds — 
white,  black  or  red,  the  raJtiiUif  s-nd 
the  huchch  or  mad.  There  are  two 
species  of  the  white  cane,  the  huls  and 
the  het.  The  huU  is  about  half  an 
inch  in  diameter,  and  contains  little 
juice,  but  the  best  gul  or  molasses  is 
made  from  it.  Bet  is  the  hardest  of 
all  the  canes,  and  grows  10  ft.  high ; 
its  juice  is  superior  to  that  of  the  pre- 
ceding kind.  The  black  or  red  sugar 
cane  is  three  times  as  thick  as  the 
white,  and  gives  more  juice,  but  of  a 
difEerent  flavour.  It  grows  to  12  ft. 
The  rastdli  is  divided  into  white  or 
guHf  and  striped.  The  white  raatdli 
is  much  thicker  than  the  red,  and 
contains  more  juice  than  any  cane. 
Its  juice  is  a  delicious  drink,  but  when 
inspissated  makes  the  worst  gul.  It 
is  BO  soft  as  to  be  easily  eaten.  The 
striped  sort  is  exactly  the  same  as  the 
other  species,  except  in  color.  It 
grows  to  15  ft.  The  hvchch  is  good 
only  for  cattle,  and  elephants  are  very 
fond  of  it.  The  other  sorts,  when  fuU 
grown,  are  cut  up,  and  have  the  juice 
expressed  by  two  rollers,  and  this  is 
then  inspissated  by  boiling  it  in  large 
iron  basins,  when  it  is  called  gul,  Ee- 
duced  to  powder,  this  is  the  native 
sugar,  and  is  sold  in  this  district  at 
8  dn&s  per  Tnan, 

Chik  Nargwnd  or  Little  Nargund, — 
Here  the  traveller  may  halt  for  a  day 
in  order  to  see  a  very  remarkable  pass 
about  7  m.  off,  and  about  3  m.  &om 
a  place  called  Saundatti,    Here  the 


Sect.  II. 


Boute  12. — Nargund — Anikeri, 


243 


MalparM  (MAlaprabhd,  Ind.  Ant..yol. 
iv.  p.  139)  rashes  through  a  narrow 
precipitous  gorge  in  the  range  of 
sandstone  hUls  between  the  towns  of 
SaundatU  and  Manaull.  This  gorge 
is  about  1^  m.  in  length,  and  is  most 
wild  and  picturesque.  The  sides  of  the 
rayine  are  precipitous,  and  the  bottom 
is  strewed  with  huge  blocks  of  sand- 
stone, which  have  fallen  away  from 
the  cliffs  on  either  side,  and  among 
these  the  river  dashes  furiously  forward. 
This  singular  passage  was  probably 
cut  by  the  river  worldng  back  through 
the  hills  by  such  a  waterfall  as  is  now 
seen  at  Gok^k.  The  course  of  the 
ravine  is  winding,  or,  at  least,  irregu- 
lar, and  not  in  a  direct  line,  as  would 
have  been  the  case  had  it  originated 
in  a  split  in  the  strata  occasioned  by 
an  earthquake.  The  ravine  is  called 
the  JViavil  TLrth,  or  "  Peacock  shrine," 
and  the  legend  is  that  when  first  the 
Malparbd  came  rushing  through  the 
plain  above  the  hill  it  turned  this  way 
and  that  to  look  for  an  outlet.  Sud- 
denly a  peacock  from  the  summit  of 
a  hill  caUed,  "  Come  hither  I  come 
hither  1"  when  the  hill  split  in  two, 
and  the  river  ran  joyously  down  the 
wild  passage  that  had  thus  miracu- 
lously been  made  for  its  escape. 

From  Chill  Narg'tmd  a  visit  may  be 
paid  to  Nargund,  lately  the  capital  of 
a  petty  B^jd,  and  the  scene  of  a  bar- 
barous massacre  during  his  revolt. 
The  chief  of  Nargund  had  long  been 
plunged  in  pecuniary  difficulties,  and 
his  estates  were  all  heavily  mortgaged. 
In  this  desperate  state  of  his  circum- 
stances he  imagined  he  saw  a  means 
of  escape  by  joining  the  insurrection 
against  tlie  English  ;  and,  on  the  30th 
of  May,  Mr.  C.  Manson,  the  Political 
Agent  in  the  S.  Mardtha  country, 
having  proceeded  to  Nargund  to  dis- 
arm the  inhabitants  with  a  few  horse- 
men, was  set  upon  by  the  Kajd's 
orders,  and  he  and  all  his  escort  were 
murdered.  Their  deaths  were  soon 
avenged.  On  the  31st  a  body  of  the 
S.  Mardtha  horse,  under  Colonel  Mal- 
colm,* and  two  companies  of  the  74th 

•  See  the  HoToevxird  Mail  for  July  the  19th, 
1S58,  where  a  fall  account  of  the  whole  affoir 
will  he  found. 


Highlanders,  with  a  company  of  the 
283i  N.  I.  and  two  guns,  under 
Capt.  Paget,  marched  from  Dhdrwdd, 
and  on  the  1st  of  June  advanced 
against  Nargund.  The  fort  is  on  a 
rock  about  800  ft.  high,  and  was  for- 
merly famous  for  its  strength,  having 
on  more  than  one  occasion  defied  the 
armies  of  Tipii.  The  town  lies  at  the 
base  of  the  rock,  and  the  enemy,  about 
1 500  in  number,  were  encamped  outside 
it.  The  advance  of  the  English  troops 
was  very  feebly  opposed,  and  by  7  A.M. 
of  the  2nd  the  town  and  fort  were  in  their 
possession.  They  had  but  six  wounded, 
while  the  rebels'suffered  very  severely. 
On  the  evening  of  the  same  day,  the 
chief,  with  six  of  his  principal  fol- 
lowers, were  captured  in  the  jungle ; 
and  on  the  12th  he  was  hanged,  and 
the  neighbouring  Rdjd  of  Dambal  was 
blown  from  a  gun,  and  six  of  his 
accomplices  hanged.  On  the  2nd  of 
June  the  strong  fort  of  KopAl  also 
was  taken  by  Major  Hughes,  who  had 
but  eight  of  his  men  wounded.  These 
operations  entirely  crushed  the  insur- 
rection in  this  district. 

At  Dewgiri,  9  m.  S.B.  of  BankApiir, 
are  6  temples  ;  at  Moti  B^nni!ir,  10  m. 
S.E.  of  Dewgiri,  are  5  temples ;  and 
at  Rdnl  B6nmlr,  12  m.  S.E.  of  Motl 
B6nniir,  are  several ;  and  between  the 
two  last  places  is  Chatr,  where  are  3 
temples ;  and  none  of  all  these  have 
been  described. 

At  3  m.  from  Hublf ,  the  road  changes 
from  red  to  white,  and  on  either  side 
of  it,  instead  of  the  Indian  fig-tree, 
are  rows  of  the  mimosa.  The  soil,  ofE 
the  road,  is  black,  and  there  is  much 
cultivation,  chiefly  of  cotton.  Strings 
of  carts,  laden  with  bales  of  cotton, 
are  met  all  along  this  road,  and  greatly 
impede  progress,  as  they  are  always  on 
the  wrong  side. 

AnilterU — There  is  a  very  good  T.  B. 
at  this  place,  a  little  oS.  the  road  to  the 
right.  The  principal  temple  is  1  m. 
from  the  T.B.,  and  to  reach  it  you 
have  to  pass  a  tank  on  the  left  witii  a 
most  mephitic  smell.  It  is  sacred  to 
Amriteshwar  or  Shiva.  The  usual 
entrance  has  been  blocked  up  with 
a  fragment  of  a  pillar  and  another 
huge  stone,  and  it  is  difficult  to  squeeze 


2i:i:    RoiUel2. — Dhdrwad  to  IIuhlL  Gadak,  and  LaJchumii.    Sect.  IT. 


past.  The  principal  entrance,  now 
disused,  is  by  a  colonnade  of  6  pil- 
lars on  either  side,  8  ft.  10  high, 
t  Ending  on  a  stjlobate,  2 J  ft.  high. 
There  is  a  large  tasteless  Bath,  or  idol 
car,  outside.  Goyemment  allows  this 
temple  201^  rs.  a  year,  and  it  has  170 
acres  of  In'^m  land.  At  about  70  yds. 
fi*om  the  entrance  outside,  is  a  gate- 
way of  two  stories,  with  18  pillars,  and 
beyond  it  a  small  Mandap  with  pillars 
of  black  basalt.  The  temple  itself  is 
122  ft.  long  from  B.  to  W.  It  is 
massively  built,  and  decorated  with 
pilasters.  There  is  a  porch  opposite 
the  colonnade,  the  roof  of  which  is 
pyramidal  and  supported  by  6  pillars. 
This  porch  is  12  ft.  from  N.  to  S.  and 
8  ft.  10  from  E.  to  W.  The  tower  over 
the  VimAnah  is  60  ft.  high.  This  ap- 
pears to  be  a  very  old  temple,  probably 
of  the  12***  century,  but,  as  regards 
architecture,  it  is  scarcely  worth  a 
visit.  The  milestones  on  this  road  are 
reckoned  from  K^rwdr,  the  131st  being 
at  Amkeri. 

Gadak,  anciently  Kratuka,  is  a  town 
of  10,319  inhabitants.  The  assistant 
collector's  bangU  serves  as  the  T.B., 
and  is  to  the  E.  of  the  town.  Some 
account  of  the  temples  here  will  be 
found  in  "Oriental  Christian  Spec- 
tator" for  July,  1839,  p.  306.  In  the 
N.W.  comer  of  the  town  is  a  Vai^hna- 
vite  temple.  The  entrance  is  under  a 
Gopurah  with  4  stories  and  50  ft.  high. 
The  door  is  handsomely  carved  with 
16  rows  of  figures  in  relief  on  either 
side.  It  opens  into  a  paved  inclosure 
in  which  is  the  temple,  a  quite  plain 
building,  with  a  well.  S.W.  of  this, 
800  yds.  off,  is  a  LingAyat  temple  to 
Kdri  Dev,  "  Black  God."  The  doors 
are  handsomely  carved,  as  is  the  out- 
side of  the  Adytum.  This  temple 
resembles  the  principal  temple  at 
Lakkundl,  and  is  built  of  the  same 
bluish  stone.  At  30  yds.  S.  of  this,  is 
another  small  Jain  temple.  At  the 
S.W.  corner  of  the  town  is  the  Kdrwdr 
company's  cotton  press  and  factory. 
Close  to  this  is  the  Government  Te- 
legraph Office  and  the  MAmlatdAr's 
Kacheri.  In  the  S.  quarter  of  the 
town  is  the  principal  temple,  the  only 
one  worth  coming  from  a  long  distance 


to  see.     It  is  dedicated  to  Trimba- 
keshwar  or  Trikuteshwar,  "the  Lord 
of  the  thi'ee  peaks."     Entering  from, 
the    N.    you    approach    the    temple 
along  a  narrow  street,  on  either  side 
of  which  are  remains  of  old  buildings, 
and    carved    stones   which   once  be- 
longed  to  them   protrude  here   and 
there  from  the  existing  houses.     At 
the  entrance  to  this  street  is  a  covered 
gateway,  and  250  ft.  beyond  it  is  the 
porch  of  the  temple  court,  which  pro- 
jects outside  from  the  wall  of  the  court 
27  ft.      The   breadth    throughout    is 
16  ft.,  and  it  extends  into  the  court 
12  ft.    The  court  has  originally  been 
surrounded  by  a  wall,  forming  an  in- 
closure 316  feet  from  E.  to  W.  and  200 
ft.  from  N.  to  S.     The  wall  is  still 
almost  entire,  and  is  very  massive.    On 
the  right  as  you  enter  the  court  is  a 
tall  stone  like  a  tombstone,  with  an 
inscription  in  old  Eanarese.     There 
are  9  inscriptions  at  this  temple,  one 
of  which,  translated  by  Mr.  Fleet,  Ind. 
Ant.  vol.  ii.  p.  298,  gives  the  date  Shaka 
984=A.D.  1062.     On  the  right,  also, 
is  a  dharmsdld,  a  low  stone  building 
without  ornament,  in  which  the  Hindil 
employes   of    Government   sometimes 
lodge.    The  first  door  of  the  principal 
temple  faces  the  visitor  at  a  distance 
of  36  ft.  from  the  porch.    There  is  first 
of  all  an  antechamber  25  ft.  deep,  then 
comes  the  main  part  of  the  temple, 
measuring  64  ft.  from  E.  to  W.  and  68 
from  N.  to  S.    The  outside  is  one  mass 
of  most  elaborate  carving.  Two  rows  of 
figures  run  along  the  entire  front  and 
back  ;  those  of  the  lower  row  are  2  ft.  9 
high,  including  their  canopy,  and  are 
166  in  number.    In  the  upper  row  are 
104  figures,  13  inches  high,  62  in  the 
front,  and  the  same  in  the  back  ;  the 
rest  of  the  wall  is  also  ornamented. 
Bound  the  outside  of  the  E.  ante- 
chamber are  niches  for  figures,  but 
only  1  figure  remains  whole.      It  is 
delicately  carved  and  2  ft.  2  high,  and 
represents  Ndrdyan.    It  has  a  beauti- 
fully designed  canopy.    The  front  of 
the  temple  to  the  spectator's  right  is 
hidden  by  a  modem  addition,  which  is 
quite  out  of  keeping  with  it.    The  roof 
of  the  temple  is  flat.     Standing  at  the 
entrance,  the  visitor  can  look  right 


Sect.  II. 


Boute  12. — Gadah — Lakkundu 


245 


through   the    temple,    between    two 
rows  of  pillars,  6  on  either  side,  in  a 
line  with  2  pilasters.    The  four  pillars 
nearest  the  centre  are  massiye  and 
ornamented,  bat  not  carved.   They  are 
8  ft.  9  high  and  5^  in  girth.    Towards 
the  E.  and  W.  are  6  other  pillars,  4  in 
one  row,  2  in  the  other,  their  height  to 
the  roof  in  the  centre  is  12J  ft.    Be- 
tween the  4  pillars  on  the  E.  is  a 
colossal  bull.      The  visitor  will  also 
observe  two  circular  carved  ornamental 
pillars  which  are  placed  on  the  right 
of  the  doorway.    They  touch  the  wall, 
but  support  nothing.     The  building 
extends  towards  the  W.,  but,  from  the 
plain  and  unadorned  style  of  this  part, 
both  outside  and  inside,  one  is  led  to 
think  that  this  is  no  part  of  the  original 
building.      Passing  through   a   large 
doorway,  the  visitor  enters  this  exten- 
sion, and  finds  himself  in  a  chamber 
19  X  21  ft.    The  roof  is  supported  by  4 
plain  massive  pillars  with  4  pilasters, 
1  at  each  comer.    In  the  centre  of  this 
chamber  is  a  small  stone  bull.  Beyond 
this  room  is  the  adytum,  a  building  of 
peculiar  construction.    The  Lingam  is 
in   a   most  elaborately  carved  star- 
shaped  sanctuary,  which  is  surrounded 
on  the  N.,  S.  and  W.  sides  by  a  high 
wall,  which   forms   a   wide   covered 
passage  and  is  almost  totally  dark. 
The  roof  is  supported  by  10  pillars, 
*'  the  gradual  tapering  of  the  Sanc- 
tum to  a  truncated  top,"  says  Colonel 
Meadows   Taylor,    "  being    managed 
in  a  peculiar  but  ingenious  fashion 
by  a  beautifully  arranged  series  of 
courses  and  gradations.    It  is  at  this 
temple  that  Yira  Ballata  commemo- 
rated by  an  inscription  the  victory 
obtained  by  his  general  Bomma  over 
Ballamadeva  Y4dava  of  Devagiri,  cap- 
turing  60  elephants  and  destroying 
the  ships  of  the  S.  country.    Another 
inscription  in  the  temple  records  its 
restoration  in  Shaka  900=A.D.  978  by 
a  prince  of  the  Ch^lukyas  ;  but  the 
Brdhmans  claim  for  it  a  far  greater 
antiquity,   extending  back  into  the 
silver  age,  the  edifice  having,  as  they 
allege,  been  originally  constructed  of 
precious  metals."     None  but  Hindi!is 
are  allowed  to  enter  this  part  of  the 
temple.  The  conical  roof  appears  above 


the  flat  roof  of  the  passage,  and  is 
beautifully  carved  and  ornamented. 
Immediately  behind  the  main  portion 
of  the  first  temple,  in  the  right-hand 
part  of  the  inclosure,  is  a  temple  to 
Saraswatl.  The  porch  is  the  finest 
part  of  it ;  it  contains  18  pillars  and 
6  pilasters.  The  3  first  of  the  2  centre 
rows  of  pillars  are  of  black  basalt, 
and  deserve  particular  notice  for  their 
elegance  of  design  and  exquisite  carv- 
ing.* This  porch  is  27  ft.  broad 
and  25  deep.  Beyond  it  is  a  deep 
recess  27  ft.  long  by  10  broad,  at  the 
end  of  which  is  the  image  of  the 
goddess,  8  ft.  4  high,  and  3  feet  across 
the  knees.  The  porch  is  14  ft.  3  high 
in  the  centre.  The  capitals  of  some  of 
the  pillars  are  exquisitely  carved.  On 
the  facade  is  one  row  of  figures  similar 
to  those  in  the  other  temple.  The  walls 
of  the  inner  recess  are  of  great  thick- 
ness, and  suggest  the  idea  that  other 
recesses  at  the  sides  may  have  been 
built  up.  These  walls  are  also  finely 
carved,  but  all  the  niches  are  empty. 
Around  are  chambers  for  priests,  and 
stalls  for  visitors  and  pilgrims.  There 
are  one  or  two  small  shrines  in  the  open 
court.  To  the  W.  is  another  entrance, 
with  a  porch  similar  to  that  on  the  N. 
There  is  also  in  the  inclosure  a  fine 
well,  faced  with  solid  stone,  and  with 
steps  leading  down  to  the  water.  There 
are  numerous  inscriptions  at  this  place, 
one  of  which  has  the  date  Shaka  790 « 
A.D.  868. 

Lakkuf^di  (anciently  Lokkikandi). 
— The  road  to  this  town  passes  first 
through  fields  and  then  along  the 
main  road  to  Balldri.  At  about  3  m. 
from  Gadak  you  turn  off  to  the  left, 

*  Col.  M.  Taylor  says,  "  It  is  impossible  to 
describe  the  exquisite  finish  of  the  pillars  of 
the  interior  of  this  temple,  which  are  of  black 
hornblende,  nor  to  estimate  how  they  were 
completed  in  their  present  condition,  without 
they  were  turned  in  a  latibe ;  yet  there  can  be 
little  doubt  that  they  were  set  up  originally 
as  rough  masses  of  rock,  and  afterwards  carved 
into  their  present  forms.  The  carving  on 
some  of  the  pillars  and  of  the  lintels  and 
architraves  of  the  doors  is  quite  beyond  de- 
scription. No  chased  work  in  silver  or  gold 
could  possibly  be  finer,  and  tlie  patterns  to 
this  day  are  copied  by  goldsmiths,  who  take 
casts  and  moulds  from  them,  but  fail  in 
representing  the  sharpness  and  finish  of  the 
original." 


24G 


Houte  12. — Dhdrwdd  to  Lakkundi, 


Sect.  11. 


into  a  stony  and  difficult  path,  fall  of 
deep  ruts,  holes,  and  huge  stones,  and 
this  continues  for  about  4  m.  more. 
Tongas  have  passed  along  this  road, 
but  not  without  much  risk  of  breaking 
down.  Entering  the  town  from  the 
W.,  jou  come  at  once  upon  a  temple. 
There  is  a  very  neat  Mandir  here,  with 
2  pillars  Q^ft.  high  at  each  comer. 
It  has  brond  eaves  made  of  granite, 
and  from  their  edges  to  the  top  of  the 
roof  is  4J  ft.  A  few  yds.  fiim  this 
Mandir  is  a  temple,  in  the  door  of 
which  is  a  huge  bar  of  black  basalt 
2  ft.  10  round,  built  into  the  walls  on 
either  side.  This  bar  is  to  preyent 
animals  from  entering,  and  is  yery 
much  worn,  showing  the  great  anti- 
quity of  the  temple.  Just  beyond  is 
another  temple,  now  disused  for  wor- 
ship. The  granite  of  which  these 
temples  are  built,  is  brought  from  a 
hill  called  Tirappagudi,  3  m.  to  the  S. 
The  traveller  will  now  proceed  100 
yds.  to  the  E.,  and  come  to  a  temple, 
in  the  inner  chamber  of  which  is  a 
figure  of  Ndrdyan,  canopied  by  a  figure 
of  Narsingh.  The  length  of  this  temple 
from  N.  to  S.  is  25  ft.  5,  and  from  E.  to 
W.  24  ft.  6.  The  ceiling  is  divided 
into  9  compartments,  besides  the 
centre,  and  each  of  the  9  has  a  square 
inscribed  in  a  square,  so  that  the 
angles  of  the  inner  square  touch  the 
middle  of  the  sides  of  the  outer  square. 
The  centrepiece  has  4  rows  of  similar 
squares,  and  is  11  ft.  high.  There  are 
6  pillars  and  2  pilasters  7  ft.  2  high. 
On  cither  side  of  the  door  of  the  inner 
chamber  is  an  empty,  handsomely 
carved  niche  for  a  DwArp^.  The 
next  chamber  is  SJft.  from  E.  to  W., 
and  8. ft.  from  N.  to  S.  The  second 
inner  chamber  is  8  ft.  9  from  E.  to  W., 
and  10  ft.  from  N.  to  S.  Here  is  a 
Lingam,  which  they  call  Ishwara. 
At  100  yds.  to  the  E.  of  this  temple  is 
another  to  Gokameshwar,  a  form  of 
Kiri^hna.  There  is  nothing  remark- 
able here.  Further  on,  about  10  yds., 
is  a  temple  to  Mahdbaleshwar,  a  name 
of  Shiva.  Over  the  door  of  this 
temple,  and  all  the  other  temples 
here,  is  a  rude  sculpture  in  relief,  of  2 
elephants  pouring  water  over  Lak- 
§hml.    S.  of  this,  about  200  yds.  ofP, 


is  Kdshl  Vishwandth's  temple.-  The 
facade  has  been  supported  by  4  pil- 
lars, of  which  that  to  the  N.  has  gone. 
This  faQade  is  26  ft.  3  long  from  N.  to 
S.     The  door  is  elaborately  carved, 
and   has   2   flat   pieces   of   carving, 
divided  into  rectangular  portions,  with 
headings  in  the  centre.    Then  comes 
a  pilaster,  followed  by  2  more  flat 
pieces,    and    then    another   pilaster. 
Most  of  these  oblongs  have  figures, 
also  in  relief,  but  only  the  lowest  are 
distinct.    The  roof  of  the  portal  to 
this  temple  is  10  ft.  8  from  the  ground. 
The  pointed  roof  above  the  portol  may 
have    been  16  ft.  high,  but   is  now 
ruined.    On  either  side  the  entrance 
is  a  figure,  very  indistinct,  but  pro- 
bably meant  for  Narsingh  trampling 
on  snakes.    The  first  chiunber  is  21  ft. 
from  N.  to  S.,  and  29  ft.  2  from  E.  to 
W.    There  are  3  pillars  of  black  basalt 
7  ft.  7  high  on  either  side.    The  roof 
is  9  ft.  above  the  floor.    The  inner 
chamber  is  12  ft.  10  from  E.  to  W.,  and 
12  ft.  from  N.  to  S.,  and  is  9ft.  7  high. 
It  is  full  of  bats,  and  the  odour  is 
almost  insupportable.    Observe  in  the 
first  chamber,  on  the  left-hand  side, 
figures  like  those  of  men,  which  re- 
present the  Naw  Grahd,  or  9  constel- 
lations.    There  is  an  inscription  in 
old  Kanarese  on  the  ledge  of  the  2nd 
division  of  the  ceiling.     On  the  E. 
side  is  a  finely-carved  door,  but  it  has 
been  blocked  up,  probably  to  keep  it 
from  falling.     It  has  4  flat  sidings, 
then   a   pilaster,  and   then  4    more 
carved  flat  sidings.    With  these  carv- 
ings, the  door  is  8  ft.  9  wide,  and  9  ft. 
10  high,  but  the  actual  entrance  is 
only  6  ft.  9  high,  and  2  ft.  8  wide. 
Five  steps  lead  up  to  the  platform  on 
which    the    temple    stands,    and    on 
either  side  is  a  wall  with  a  lion  in 
relief.    The  temple  consists  of  3  parts, 
an  oblong  faQade  placed  breadthways, 
an  oblong   body  lengthways,  and  a 
slightly  curving   terminus,  which  is 
the  Adytum.  The  roof  is  quite  ruined. 
The  carving  outside  is  very  elaborate, 
and  altogether  this  temple  is  by  far 
the  handsomest  in  Lakkundi,  and  well 
worth    seeing ;    but    being    built    of 
coarse  granite,  the  carving  is  not  so 
clear  and  shaiply  defined  as,  for  in- 


Sect.  II. 


Soute  12. — ZakkundL 


247 


stance,  in  the  Abii  temples.  To  the 
W.,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  road,  is 
a  temple  to  Nandeshwar,  or  "  Shiva, 
lord  of  the  bull  Nandi."  In  front  of 
it  is  a  sort  of  colonnade  20  ft.  4  long, 
formed  of  4  rows  of  2  pillars  each  6  ft. 
10  high.  The  chamber  to  which  this 
colonnade  leads  is  12  ft.  6  from  E.  to 
W.,  and  12  ft.  8  from  N.  to  S.  The 
next  chamber  is  7  ft.  10  from  E.  to  W., 
and  6  ft.  6  from  N.  to  S.  Beyond  it  is 
a  chamber  8  ft.  2  from  E.  to  W.,  and 
7  ft.  3  from  N.  to  S.,  and  8  ft.  high. 
In  the  2nd  chamber  are  4  pillars  and 
2  pilasters.  There  is  a  Kanarese  in- 
scription on  the  ledge  of  the  W.  divi- 
sion of  the  roof,  between  the  4  pillars. 
This  temple  stands  on  the  N.  side  of  a 
tank,  which  it  overlooks.  At  200  yds. 
to  the  S.  is  a  temple  to  Basava.  The 
inside  is  28  ft.  broad  from  N.  to  S., 
and  34 J  ft.  from  E.  to  W.,  but  only 

7  ft.  high.  It  is  a  plain  building,  but 
prettily  situated  on  the  E.  side  of  the 
tank,  which  is  a  well-known  place  for 
wild  ducks  and  other  water-fowl,  in- 
cluding snipe.    The  inner  chamber  is 

8  ft.  sq.  Inside  the  town,  200  yds.  to 
the  W.,  is  a  temple  to  MallikArjuna,  a 
deity  of  the  LingAyats,  but  the  people 
at  Lakkundi  say  it  is  the  name  of  a 
mountain  at  Tlrupatl.  There  is  a 
portal,  supported  by  2  rows  of  pillars, 
8  without  and  4  within.  Further  to 
the  W.  100  yds.  is  a  temple  to  Ish- 
wara,  the  roof  of  which  has  fallen  in. 
This  is  a  very  old  temple  ;  the  exterior 
is  handsomely  carved,  and,  as  usual,  is 
said  to  be  the  work  of  Jakanachdrya. 
The  traveller  will  now  pass  along  a 
narrow  path,  thickly  shaded  for  about 
100  yds.,  to  what  is  called  a  BAorl,  or 
"  well,"  but  it  is  in  fact  a  small  tank, 
the  sides  of  which  are  faced  with 
stone.  There  are  flights  of  steps  to 
the  water  on  3  sides,  consisting  of  10 
steps  each,  and  on  either  side  of  the 
first  step  is  an  elephant,  so  well  carved, 
that  the  natives  may  be  believed  when 
they  say  that  it  is  the  work  of  Jaka- 
nacharya.  There  is  one  small  alli- 
gator in  the  tank,  which,  of  course, 
must  on  no  account  be  touched.  About 
200  yds.  from  this,  on  the  W.  side  of 
the  tower,  is  a  temple  to  Minikeshwar, 
a  name  of  Krishna,  so  callod  because 


every  day  he  gave  to  Rddhd.  a  jewel 
called  a  Mdnik,  that  is  a  ruby.    A 
very  pretty  small  tank  adjoins  the 
temple  to  the  -S.    It  is  faced  with 
stone,  and  there  are  several  handsome 
buttresses  projecting  into  the  water, 
said  to  be  carved  by  Jakan&charya. 
The  entrance  into  the  temple  is  by  a 
portal  on  the  S.  side,  which  on  either 
side  has  4  pillars  of  black  basalt.    The 
E.  face  is  58  ft.  long,  and  from  E.  to 
W.  it  is  35 J  ft.    The  interior  is  only 
9  ft.  4  high.    There  is  nothing  in  the 
inner   chamber,  but  it  is  decorated 
outside  with  2  pillars,  and  the  roof  iB 
pyramidal.    Part  of  the  outer  wall  is 
falling.    This  temple  is  surrounded  by 
beautiful   trees  of   great  size.     The 
traveller  may  return  to  Gadak  by  a 
road   more   to  the   E.,  through   the 
village  of  Betagari,  and  this  perhaps 
is  better  than  the  one  already  men- 
tioned.   Should  the  traveller  return 
to  Belg^oii  from  Gadak,  the  cost  of  a 
special  tonga  from  Belg^n  to  Gadak 
and  back  ^1  be  Rs.  100,  but  he  may 
perhaps  like  to  go  on  from  Gadak  to 
Hamp^  to  see  the  wonderful  temples 
there,  and  the  ruined  city  of  Blj^nagar, 
which  are  fully  described  in  the  Madras 
Handbook,  p.  349.    In  that  case  the 
stages  will  be  as  follows  : — 


Prom 


Gadak  .  . 
Dambal 
Hesanir  .  . 
Hampesagar. 
Balahansi  . 
Hospef. 


To 


Dambal     . 
Hesan^ 
Hampesagar     . 
BalahanBl     . 
Hospet     . 
Hamp^,  or  B^&nagar 

Total    . 


Miles. 


13 

18 

7J 
15 
11 

8 


72^ 


There  is  a  T.  B.  at  Dambal,  but  no 
furniture.  At  Hesan!ir  there  is  a  bangle 
with  furniture.  From  Hesanir  the 
road  is  very  bad,  rocky,  and  sandy ; 
between  it  and  Hampesagar  you  cross 
the  TungabhadrA  river  by  a  ford  in 
dry  weather,  and  by  a  ferry  when  the 
river  is  full.  There  are  large  alli- 
gators in  this  river.  There  is  a  T.  B. 
at  Hampesagar,  and  the  road  from 
thence  is  good.  There  are  banglds  at 
the   other    stations,    except    Hospe^. 


248 


l^oute  13. — Gadak  to  Bdddmi, 


Sect.  11. 


Nothing  need  be  added  to  the  descrip- 
tion of  Bij^nagar  in  the  Madras  Hand- 
book, except  that  the  oldest  part  is 
that  called  H41&  Patna,  which  is 
furtiiest  to  the  W. 


ROUTE    13. 

GADAK  TO   bAdAmI. 

This  expedition  cannot  be  a  com- 
fortable one,  whatever  road  is  taken. 
Europeans  so  seldom  travel  to  Bdddmi, 
Ihat  supplies  are  dijQicult  to  procure, 
find  the  roads  are  bad.  It  will  be  well 
to  leave  Gadak  very  early  in  the 
morning,  and  horses  should  be  changed, 
if  relays  can  be  got,  at  the  village  of 
Ndndpi!ir,  just  beyond  the  12th  mile- 
stone. At  13^  m.  you  pass  the  fort  of 
Umarjf.  Just  beyond  that,  the  road 
branches  E.  to  Ndrikal,  a  town  with  a 
ruined  fort  and  a  large  tank.  This  is 
a  much  longer  way  than  if  the  road  to 
the  N.  is  taken,  which  passes  through 
Abegiri.  Close  to  the  24th  milestone 
is  the  town  of  Ron.  There  is  a  toler- 
able bangld  here,  to  reach  which  you 
must  turn  off  to  the  left  about  300  yds. 
At  Ron  horses  are  not  procurable,  and 
the  traveller  will  probably  have  to 
proceed  in  a  domni.  The  first  change 
of  bullocks  will  be  at  Eottabal,  which 
is  about  3  m. ;  the  next  place  is  the 
small  village  of  Hariar,  also  3  m., 
where  it  will  be  as  well  to  change 
bullocks  again  if  possible.  This  is  the 
frontier  village  of  the  Dhdrwdd  Col- 
lectorate,  and  the  traveller  now  passes 
into  the  Kaladgl  ZlFa.  From  this  to 
Bdddmi  is  12  m.,  and  is  a  very  severe 
journey  for  bullocks,  so  that  the  utmost 
exertion  should  be  made  to  obtain  a 
relay  on  the  other  side  of  the  Malparbd 
river,  which  is  about  7  m.    The  col- 


lector of  Kaladgl  should  be  written  to 
for  bullocks.  In  the  rains  the  Mal- 
parbd is  over  100  yds.  wide,  and  is  not 
f ordable  ;  but  in  the  dry  weather  it  is 
little  more  than  25  yds.  wide,  with  a 
depth  of  2  ft.  6.  The  road  down  the 
bank  to  the  water  is,  however,  very 
steep,  and  on  the  N.  shore  there  are 
many  large  pieces  of  rock  in  the  water, 
which,  particularly  at  night,  render 
an  upset  quite  probable.  There  are  a 
few  alligators,  but  accidents  do  not 
occur.  The  ascent  on  the  N.  bank  is 
also  steep,  but  not  so  bad  as  on  the  S. 
side.  There  is  a  small  village  on  the 
N.  side,  but  neither  bullocks  nor  sup- 
plies are  obtainable.  From  the  Mal- 
parbd to  Bdddmi  is  nearly  4  m.  There 
is  a  large  dharmsdld  at  Bdddmi,  off 
the  road  about  ^  of  m.  to  the  right. 
The  whole  journey  from  Gadak  to 
Bdddmi  with  bullocks  will  take  about 
6hrs. 

Bdddmi.— Th^  N.  fort  of  Bdddmi  is 
to  the  N.E.  of  the  town,  and  on  the 
heights  above  are  some  picturesque 
temples.  To  the  S.  is  another  rocky 
hill,  in  the  face  of  which  are  4  cave- 
temples.  The  2  hills  approach  so  close 
to  each  other  as  to  leave  only  a  gorge, 
into  which  the  town  extends  from  the 
N.W.,  and  is  bounded  also  to  the  B. 
by  a  fine  tank.  The  hills  are  not  less 
than  400  ft.  high,  and  are  very  steep, 
in  places  perpendicular.  They  form 
the  W.  end  of  a  ridge  which  extends 
E.  from  them  about  5  m.,  but  is 
nowhere  so  high  as  these  hills.  The 
forts  are  no  doubt  of  extreme  anti- 
quity, and  in  some  shape  or  other 
probably  existed  as  long  back  as  the 
Christian  Era,  Little  or  nothing  is 
known  of  the  ancient  history.  3  m. 
to  the  E.  of  Bdddmi  is  a  place  called 
Mahdktit,  where  is  a  fine  tank  faced 
with  stone  ;  in  it  is  a  very  old  lingam 
with  5  heads,  3  of  which  are  Bralund, 
Yi$hnu,  and  Mahddeo.  It  is  called 
the  Panchmukha,  "6-faced."  There 
is  also  a  large  fallen  column,  a  mono- 
lith, with  3  long  inscriptions.  One, 
probably  the  most  modem,  is  Chd- 
lukyan,  of  about  A.D.  600 ;  another  is 
of  dubious  meaning  and  date,  and  a 
third  is  in  an  altogether  unknown 
language,  of  which  Mr.  Fleet,  C.S.,  the 


Sect.  II. 


Sfnite  13. — Bdddmi. 


249 


distinguished  Sanskrit  and  Kanarese 
scholar,  could  not  read  a  word.  This 
is  alone  enough  to  prove  the  remote- 
ness of  the  period  at  which  this  locality 
was  first  peopled.  In  1786  BAddmi 
was  in  the  possession  of  Tipii  ^d^ib, 
and  was  attacked  by  the  armies  of 
Niz&m  'All  and  the  PeshwAMhddu  RAo. 
"  Operations  began  on  May  1st.  After 
battering  the  walls  of  the  town  for  3 
weeks,  they  were  very  little  injured  ; 
but  it  was  determined  to  try  the  effect 
of  an  escalade.  On  the  morning  of 
the  20th  of  May,  20,000  infantry  of 
the  confederate  armies  were  drawn 
up  for  that  service.  The  garrison, 
consisting  of  upwards  of  3,500  men, 
manned  the  works  to  oppose  them ; 
and  when  the  assailants  advanced, 
which  they  did  with  great  resolution, 
they  found  the  ditch  and  covered  way 
full  of  mines,  which  were  fired,  and 
proved  exceedingly  destructive ;  but 
the  Mardthas  and  Mughuls,  vicing 
with  each  other,  rushed  forward  in  a 
most  impetuous  though  tumultuous 
manner,  applied  ladders,  mounted  the 
walls  in  various  places,  and,  except  a 
slight  check  sustained  at  the  citadel, 
carried  all  before  them  within  the 
town.  The  garrison  fled  to  the  forts 
above,  closely  followed  by  the  assail- 
ants ;  but  the  pursuers  did  not  succeed 
in  entering  with  the  fugitives.  They, 
however,  continued  to  crowd  up  the 
face  of  the  hills,  though  huge  stones 
were  rolled  down,  and  a  heavy  fire  of 
musketry  opened  upon  them.  Their 
casualties  were  numerous,  but  the  gar- 
rison, becoming  intimidated  at  their 
furious  and  persevering  attack,  offered 
to  surrender  if  their  lives  were  spared, 
a  condition  which  was  immediately  ! 
granted."  (See  Gnmt  Duff,  vol.  iii.,  | 
p.  10.)  The  fort  was  taken  by  the  : 
British  under  Sir  Thomas  Munro  in 
1818.  To  view  the  forts  the  traveller  ' 
will  start  very  early  in  the  morning  i 
and  proceed  to  the  gate  of  the  lower  i 
fort,  which  faces  to  the  S.W. ;  and 
soon  after  passing  it,  and  leaving  i 
on  the  left  a  temple  of  Hanumdn, 
will  ascend  120  ft.  to  a  temple  of 
Mahadeo,  Avhence  he  will  have  an 
excellent  view  over  the  town  and 
hills.      He   will    then    see   that   the  I 


hills  which  loomed  before  him  in  a 
dark  blue  line  as  he  came  from  Hon 
are  separated  by  the  Malparbd  river, 
and  that  the  ridge  on  the  N.  side 
divides  at  its  W.  end  into  the  2  hills 
between  which  lies  the  town  of  Bd- 
ddmi. The  temple  is  very  massively 
built  of  hard  sandstone.  There  is  a 
portal  in  front  of  it,  with  4  sq.  pillars 
8  ft.  8  in  periphery,  and  9  ft.  5  high  to 
the  top  of  the  capital.  The  chamber 
within  the  temple  has  also  4  pillars, 
and  measures  20  ft.  from  N.  to  S.,  and 
22  ft.  from  E.  to  W.  The  chamber  is 
vacant,  but  in  the  faQade  are  2  dw&r- 
pals.  The  fort  is  a  little  to  the  N.  of 
the  dharmsdla,  and  in  its  lower  part 
much  of  the  town  is  included,  and  this 
part  is  defended  by  a  ditch  50  ft.  deep. 
Above  the  temple  of  Mahddeo  rises  a 
scarped  rock  90  ft.  high,  round  the 
edge  of  which  runs  part  of  the  wall  of 
the  upper  fort,  which  is  now  quite 
deserted,  and  only  1  iron  gun,  about 
10  ft.  long,  remains.  There  are  2  or  3 
other  temples,  mostly  in  the  upper 
fort,  which  have  a  very  picturesque 
appearance.  The  S.  hill  is  also  crowned 
with  a  fort,  and  contains  in  its  W.  face 
4  cave-temples,  which  have  rendered 
Bdddmi  celebrated,  though  the  natural 
beauties  of  the  scenery  might  well 
have  done  so  without  assistance  from 
Art.  Descend  now  from  the  temple 
of  Mahddeo,  and  pass  along  to  the  E. 
portion  of  the  town,  and  close  to  the 
S.  hill  will  be  seen  2  tombs  of  Muslims 
and  a  mosque.  There  are  several  in- 
scriptions in  the  Tughrd  character 
about  2  centuries  old.  There  is  another 
gate  in  this  quarter  through  which  the 
traveller  will  pass,  and  ascend  the  S. 
hill.  The  1st  cave  is  about  30  ft.  from 
the  ground,  and  faces  W.  Mr.  Burgess 
has  given  views  of  these  caves,  and  an 
excellent  account  of  them ;  he  says, 
"  they  stand  as  to  arrangement  of 
parts  between  the  Buddhist  Vihdras 
and  the  later  Brdhmanical  examples 
at  Eliira,  Elephanta,  and  Salsette. 
The  front  wall  of  the  Buddhist  Vihdra, 
with  its  small  windows  and  doors, 
admitted  too  little  light ;  and  so  here, 
while  retaining  the  verandah  in  front, 
and  further  protecting  the  cave  from 
rain  and  sun  by  projecting  eaves,  the 


250 


Houte  13, — Gadak  to  Bdddnd, 


Sect.  11. 


front  of  the  ShAla,  or  "hall,"  was 
made  quite  open,  except  the  spaces 
between  the  walls  and  the  Ist  pillars 
from  each  end.  In  the  sculptures,  at 
least  of  the  2nd  and  3rd  caves,  Vi§hnu 
oecupies  the  most  prominent  place, 
but  the  shrines  of  all  3  contain,  or 
have  once  contained,  the  Linga  of 
Shiva:  this,  however,  is  probably  a 
later  substitution  in  the  3rd  cave,  and 
in  the  2nd  there  is  only  a  Chavarangay 
or  altar  pedestal.  In  style  they  vary 
much  in  details,  but  can  scarcely  differ 
much  in  age ;  and  as  the  3rd  contains 
an  inscription  of  Mangaleshvara,  dated 
Shaka  500=A.D.  578,  we  cannot  be 
far  wrong  in  attributing  them  all  to 
the  6th  century.  The  importance  of 
this  date  can  scarcely  be  over  esti- 
mated, as  it  is  the  first  of  the  kind  yet 
discovered  in  a  BrAhmanical  cave," 
In  the  faQade  of  the  1st  cave  are  4 
pillars  and  2  pilasters.  The  2  pillars 
to  the  S.  have  been  broken  by  light- 
ning, and  are  now  supported  by 
wooden  blocks.  The  pillars  are  square, 
8  ft.  8  high,  and  6  ft.  7  in  circumfer- 
ence. They  are  slightly  carved  in 
relief,  to  about  half  way  from  the  top. 
On  the  left  of  the  cave  is  a  dwdrpAl, 
with  a  Nandi  over  him.  Opposite  this 
dwdrpdl  is  a  figure  of  Shiva,  6  ft. 
high,  with  18  arms.  There  is  a  head 
of  a  bull  to  his  left,  and  to  the  right 
are  Ganpati  and  musicians.  Beyond 
the  facade  is  a  passage,  or  verandah, 
41ift.  from  N.  to  S.,  7  ft.  10  broad, 
and  11 J  ft.  high.  On  the  left  is 
Vi§hnu  or  Harihara,  7  ft.  9  high,  with 
4  hands,  holding  the  usual  symbols. 
On  the  right  is  Lakshml,  with  an  at- 
tendant. The  whole  rests  on  a  stylo- 
bate,  along  the  front  of  which  are 
Ganas  (dwarf  attendants  of  Shiva)  in 
all  sorts  of  attitudes.  On  a  platform 
to  the  right  is  Shiva  with  Pdrvati  and 
Nandi.  On  the  back  wall  is  a  figure 
of  MaheshAsurl  or  Durg4  destroying 
the  buffalo-demon  Mahesh^ur.  She 
is  4  ft.  7  high,  has  4  arms,  and  holds 
up  the  buffalo  by  the  tail  while  her 
spear  head  transfixes  its  neck.  In  one 
hand  she  holds  the  discus  or  Chakra, 
in  another  the  spear,  in  the  3rd  a 
conch,  and  in  the  4th  the  buffalo's 
tail.    In  the  air  above  are  2  floating 


figures  of  attendants.  On  the  right 
wall  is  Gkinpati,  3  ft.  4  high,  and  on 
the  left  Skanda,  2  ft.  11  high.  Other 
figures  are  mentioned  in  Mr.  Burgess's 
account.  Beyond  the  passage  is  a 
chamber,  with  2  pillars  carved  from 
the  capitals  to  the  middle.  Inside  are 
2  rows  of  4  sq.  pillars.  This  chamber 
is  41}  ft  from  N.  to  S.,  and  25  ft.  5 
from  B.  to  W,  The  ceiling  of  the 
passage,  as  weU  as  that  of  the  chamber, 
is  carved  in  relief.  There  is  a  small 
recess  in  the  centre  of  the  inner  wall, 
containing  the  Lingam,  From  this 
temple  a  staircase,  very  much  broken 
at  one  end,  and  containing  45  steps, 
leads  to  a  flight  of  6  more  steps,  by 
which  you  arrive  at  the  2nd  cave- 
temple.  From  the  platform,  thus 
reached,  is  a  fine  view  over  the  tank, 
and  to  the  N.  fort.  The  facade  of  the 
2nd  temple  has  4  pillars  8  ft,  10  high, 
and  1  ft.  7}  square,  carved  from  the 
middle  upwards,  and  4  scalloped 
arches.  It  faces  N.  In  front  of  it 
are  3  pinnacles  of  perpendicular  rock. 
The  first  chamber  is  24  ft,  from  B.  to 
W.,  and  32  ft.  ^  from  N.  to  S.  The 
facade  is  about  3  ft.  above  the  level, 
and  is  entered  by  3  steps.  There  are 
2  dwdrpdls  5  ft.  10  high,  each  with  a 
female  attendant.  At  the  B.  end  of 
the  verandah,  to  the  left  of  the  spec- 
tator, is  the  Yardha,  or  3rd  Incar- 
nation of  Vishnu,  in  which  he  assumed 
the  form  of  a  boar.  He  holds  in  his 
hand  a  pedestal,  on  which  is  the  figure 
of  Lakshml.  .  Below  are  She^ha,  the 
1,000-headed  snake,  depicted  with  a 
human  head,  and  a  female  figure,  pro- 
bably meant  for  the  wife  of  She^ha. 
At  the  other  end  of  the  verandah  is  a 
figure  5  ft.  1  high,  with  4  arms,  and 
his  foot  raised,  which  Mr.  Burgess 
takes  to  be  Virdtriipa,  the  demiurge 
of  Vishnu,  but  which  perhaps  may  be 
Shiva  dancing  the  T^ndev.  On  the 
base  of  this  sculpture,  and  on  that  of 
the  facade,  are  a  row  of  Ganas.  In  a 
compartment  above  is  a  10-armed 
figure.  On  the  ceiling,  in  front  of 
this,  is  Ghatur  Bhuj,  that  is  Vishnu 
with  4  arms,  riding  on  Garuda.  On 
the  top  of  the  wall,  in  a  frieze,  Vi§hnu 
is  sleeping  on  Shesha,  with  figures  at 
his  feet.     In  the  central  square  of  the 


Sect.  II. 


Saute  13. — Bdddmi, 


251 


ceiling  is  a  lotus  with  16  fishes  round 
it.  Bound  them  is  a  circle  inscribed 
in  a  square  held  by  12  small  figures 
in  an  outer  square.  The  brackets  sup- 
porting the  beams  of  the  yerandah  are 
strange  vampire-like  figures.  The 
frieze  of  the  cornice  all  round  is  carved 
with  groups  of  figures.  The  entrance 
to  the  inner  chamber  from  the  verandah 
is  like  that  of  cave  1,  with  2  pillars 

8  ft.  6J  in.  high.  The  roof  of  this 
chamber  is  supported  bj  8  pillars  9  ft. 
6i  high,  in  4  rows  of  2  each  from  front 
to  back,  with  corresponding  pilasters. 
The  chamber  measures  33  ft.  4  wide 
by  23ft.  7  deep,  and  is  lift.  4  high. 
The  brackets  are  lions,  human  figures, 
vampires,  elephants,  &c.  The  adytum 
measures  8  ft.  9  by  7  ft.  5 J,  and  has 
only  a  square  Chavaranga  or  altar. 
The  verandah  is  30  ft.  4  by  6  ft.  7,  and 
is  9  ft.  11  high.  On  the  architrave,  in 
the  middle  compartment,  are  several 
groups,  such  as  a  woman  on  a  couch 
nursing  a  child.  The  figures  that  sup- 
port the  cross  beams  are  some  of  them 
very  spirited. 

A  sloping  ascent  of  ruined  steps 
60  ft.  long  leads  to  another  flight 
of  14  steps,  in  tolerable  preserva- 
tion, and  from  9  to  10  inches  high. 
These  steps  lead  to  a  platform,  and 
have  on  their  right,  concealed  in  the 
rock,  a  flight  of  exceedingly  steep 
steps  which  lead  to  the  fort  at  the  top 
of  the  hill.  Following  the  main  line, 
you  ascend  another  flight  of  13  steps 
which  lead  to  a  doorway.  On  the 
right  of  the  door  is  an  inscription  in 
old  Kanarese.  Then  comes  another 
flight  of  13  steps  which  lead  to  a  plat- 
form in  front  of  the  3rd  cave.  Above 
the  fa9ade  of  this  cave  is  a  scarp  of 
100  ft.  of  perpendicular  rock.  This 
cave,  says  Mr.  Burgess,  is  *'  by  far  the 
finest  of  the  series,  and,  in  some  re- 
spects, one  of  the  most  interesting 
Brahmanical  works  in  India."  The 
facade  is  72  ft.  from  N.  to  S.  and  has 
6  pillars  and  2  pilasters  12j^  ft.  high. 
They  are  square,  and  their  periphery  is 

9  ft.  Eleven  steps  lead  from  the  plat- 
form to  the  floor  of  the  cave,  and  thus 
a  stylobate  is  formed  on  which  Ganas 
are  represented  in  relief.  Each  pillar 
has  3  brackets,  one  on  either  side  and 


one  to  the  inside  of  the  verandah.  The 
side  brackets  represent  male  and 
female  figures,  and  the  inside  bracket 
is  a  tall  female  figure.  The  shoulders  of 
the  columns,  as  in  the  other  caves,  are 
carved  with  elaborate  festoons,  and  on 
each  side  of  the  lower  portions  of  the 
shafts  are  medallions  with  groups  of 
figures.  Traces  of  painting  are  visible 
on  the  under-side  of  the  eaves  and  the 
roof  of  the  verandah.  Mr.  Burgess 
has  given  photographs  of  the  brackets: 
that  on  the  E.  side  of  the  second 
column  represents  Arddhandrishvara, 
the  male-female  deity,  the  right  side 
being  male,  the  left  female.  Shiva, 
the  male,  has  a  skull  and  crescent- 
moon  in  his  cap,  and  P4rvati,  the 
female,  holds  a  mirror  in  her  upper 
hand,  and  has  rings  on  her  wrist,  arm, 
and  ankle.  At  the  W.  end  of  the 
verandah  is  a  statue  of  Narsingh, 
the  4th  incarnation  of  Vi§hnu,  a  very 
spirited  figure,  11  ft.  high.  At  his 
right  is  a  Pishdcha  or  demon,  3  ft.  6 
high,  with  thick  lips  and  a  tortoise  as 
a  brooch.  Left  of  Narsingh  is  a  figure 
4  ft.  9  high,  with  a  turban  and  jewelled 
girdle.  Beside  this  figure,  on  the  back 
wall,  is  Shiva,  of  the  same  height.  At 
the  E.  end  is  Ndrdyan,  seated  under 
She^hndg.  The  carving  of  the  upper 
part  of  NdrAyan,  particularly  the  face, 
is  of  unusual  excellence.  The  features 
are  very  good  and  have  an  excellent 
expression  of  repose,  but  the  legs  are 
clumsy  and  seem  to  be  unfinished. 
On  the  left  of  this  figure  is  the  VarAha 
incarnation.  To  the  right  of  this  figure 
is  an  inscription  in  Kanarese.  The 
chamber  is  35  ft.  from  E.  to  W.  and 
38  from  N.  to  S.  and  16J  ft.  high.  It 
has  4  fluted  pUlars  and  2  pilasters  in 
front,  and  then  a  row  of  6  pillars,  and 
then  2  rows  of  2  pillars  each,  carved 
half  way  down  ;  a  very  deep  eave  pro- 
jects in  front  of  the  verandah,  with  an 
alto-rilievo  carving  of  Garuda.  On  the 
rock  to  the  left  of  the  cave  is  an  inscrip- 
tion, and  there  are  some  others  in  other 
places.  E.  of  this  cave  is  a  wall  7  ft. 
high,  which  separates  the  4th,  or  Jain 
cave,  from  the  other  3,  which  arc 
BrAhmanical.  A  ladder  is  required  to 
cross  this  wall,  after  which  proceed 
20  yards  to  a  platform,  from  which  9 


252 


Route  13. — Gaddk  to  Bdddmt 


Sect.  II. 


steps  lead  to  the  4th  care.  The  plat- 
form overlooks  the  lake  or  tank,  the 
descent  being  very  steep  and  covered 
with  bushes.  A  broad  overhanging 
cave  about  1  yd.  in  dip  has  been  cut 
out  of  the  rode  in  front  of  this  cave. 
It  has  Garuda  as  its  central  ornament 
in  the  inside.  In  the  faQade  are  4 
pillars  and  2  pilasters,  carved  all  the 
way  down,  square  and  8  ft.  4  high, 
with  a  periphery  of  6  ft.  2.  Between 
these  pillars  are  scalloped  arches.  On 
the  left  of  the  verandah  is  a  Jain  divi- 
nity, with  bands  round  his  thighs,  and 
cobras  coming  out  below  his  feet.  On 
the  right  of  the  verandah  is  a  Buddha, 
with  the  She§h  NAg  over  his  head. 
The  verandah  is  32  ft.  from  N.  to  S., 
and  6  ft.  9  from  E.  to  W.  The  cham- 
ber is  26  ft.  from  N.  to  S.  and  6  ft.  2 
from  E.  to  W.  There  are  2  pillars  in 
front,  and  2  richly  ornamented  pilas- 
ters. There  are  «dso  4  rows  of  figures, 
with  Buddha  in  the  centre.  Beyond 
is  the  Adytum,  a  recess  in  which  is 
Buddha,  4  ft.  6  high  and  3  ft.  8  broad 
across  the  knees.  In  the  verandah  is 
a  flight  of  64  steps,  leading  up  to  the 
door  of  the  fort,  and  there  are  25  more 
steps  beyond.  Visitors  iu  descending 
will  not  fail  to  be  amused  with  the 
monkeys,  which  come  out  on  the 
scarped  face  of  the  rock,  and  sometimes 
endeavour  to  push  one  another  down 
the  precipice.  At  the  head  of  the  lake 
a  large  mass  of  the  rock  has  fallen, 
and  forms  what  may  be  called  a 
5th  cave.  The  entrance  is  by  a 
hole,  through  which  one  must  crawl. 
Against  the  rock  at  the  back  are  a 
large  and  a  small  figure  of  Jain  execu- 
tion. A  little  to  the  N.W.  of  this  is  a 
small  shrine  built  against  the  rock,  on 
which  is  carved  Vi§hnu  resposing  on 
Shc§ha  and  surrounded  by  deities.  To 
the  N.W.  and  N.  are  numerous  other 
shrines.  N.E.  of  the  dharmsAld  is  an 
old  temple  with  massive  square  pillars, 
and  on  the  right  of  the  door  is  a 
Eanarese  inscription.  It  faces  E.  by 
S.  There  are  some  carvings  about  it. 
This  temple  is  quite  deserted,  and  is 
infested  both  by  bats  and  panthers. 

Returning  from  B&ddmi  the  traveller 
will  do  well  to  visit  Banshankar,  where 
Is  a  temple  to  PArvatl,  the  wife  of 


Shiva,  or  Shankar,  which  means  *•  con- 
ferring happiness."  PArvatl  is  here 
called  Banshankari  or  "  wife  of  Shan- 
kar of  the  woods."  It  is  about  2  m. 
from  BMdmi,  or  half-way  between 
Bdddmi  and  the  Malparbd  river.  The 
first  thing  come  to  is  a  small  stone 
pavilion,  and  200  yds.  further  is  a  tank 
faced  with  stone,  and  364J  ft.  square, 
having  on  3  sides  a  colonnade,  roofed 
over.  On  the  W.  side  there  is  only  a  pa- 
vilion with  4  rows  of  pillars,  the  first  row 
having  7  pillars,  and  the  other  3  six, 
all  being  7  ft.  high.  Opposite  to  this 
pavilion  on  the  E.  side  is  a  Gh&t  with 
stone  steps  going  down  to  the  water. 
On  the  B.,  S.,  and  N.  sides  is  the 
colonnade.  There  are  65  double  pil- 
lars on  the  N.  side,  65  on  the  S.,  and 
63  on  the  E.,  making  in  all  386.  The 
pillars  have  square  bases  and  shafts, 
and  the  passage  between  them  is  4  ft. 
2  wide.  The  tank  is  full  of  fish,  which 
are  constantly  springing  out  of  the 
water,  and  there  are  said  to  be  alliga- 
tors. There  are  also  many  large  mon- 
keys, who  bound  along  the  roof  of  the 
colonnade  with  surprising  agility.  At 
the  N.W.  comer  of  the  colonnade  is 
the  Bath  or  chariot  of  the  deity,  26  ft. 

5  high  and  37  ft.  8  in  periphery.  The 
chamber  of  the  Rath  is  13  ft.  9  sq. 
and  the  larger  wheels  are  7  ft.  in 
diameter.  At  the  comers  are  repre- 
sentations of  Kyii^hna  slaying  the  ser- 
pent Ealinga,  and  of  Garuda,  and  of 
the  Tortoise  and  Fish  Incarnations. 
The  pillars  of  the-  colonnade  are  only 

6  ft.  2  high.  Pdrvati's  temple  is  on 
the  W.  side,  and  is  said  to  be  200  years 
old.  It  has  a  Government  grant  of 
Rs.  672  a  year,  besides  15  rs.  monthly 
for  daily  expenses.  It  has  besides 
lands  of  its  own.  There  is  also  a  lofty 
tower  for  lamps,  which  has  several 
tiers  of  apartments.  Beyond  the  tem- 
ple to  the  E.  is  a  fine  stream  of  clear 
water  25  ft.  broad,  fiowing  amongst 
tall  trees  and  shrubs,  and  dammed  by 
a  stone  embankment,  over  which  the 
surplus  waters  fiow. 

SIGHTS  IN  THE  VICINITY  OP  BADAMf. 

PattadaTiaL  9  m.  E.  of  BAdtoil. 
Here  are  several  temples,  both  BrAh- 
manical  and  Jain,  dating  from  the 


Sect.  II. 


Route  13. — Pattadalcal — AiwallL 


253 


7th  or  8th  century.  Several  of  the 
temples  at  Pat^adakal,  says  Mr.  Bur- 
gess, "are  very  pure  examples  of 
the  Dravidian  style  of  architec- 
ture ;  they  are  ail  square  pyramids 
divided  into  distinct  stories,  and  each 
story  ornamented  with  cells  alter- 
nately oblong  and  square.  Their  style 
of  ornamen^tion  is  also  very  much 
coarser  than  that  of  the  Chdlukya 
style,  and  differs  very  much  in  cha- 
racter. The  domical  termination  of 
the  spires  is  also  different,  and  much 
less  graceful,  and  the  overhanging 
cornices  of  double  curvature  are  much 
more  prominent  and  important."  Be- 
sides these,  the  village  possesses  a 
group  of  temples  not  remarkable  for 
tiieir  size  or  architectural  beauty,  but 
interesting  because  they  exhibit  the 
two  principal  styles  of  Indian  archi- 
tecture, in  absolute  juxtaposition  (see 
*•  Arch.of  DhArwddand  Maisiir,"  pp.  63, 
64).  The  temple  of  PApndth  is  of  the 
N.  style,  and  is  probably  rather  older 
than  that  of  Yiriipdk^ha,  which  dates 
from  the  early  part  of  the  8th  century. 
Patt^dakal  is  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Malparbd  river.  The  name  of  this 
river  is  said  to  be  derived  from 
Mal^  "  dirt,"  i,e,y  "  sin,"  and  Pra/mdh^ 
"stream,"  i.e.,  "sin- washer;"  Mr. Bur- 
gess writes  the  word  Mdlaprahlia. 
He  has  given  a  view  of  the  great  Shiva 
temple,  which  is  120  ft.  long  and  78 
broad,  including  the  porches.  There 
are  18  pillars  in  the  interior.  It  is 
the  only  ancient  temple  still  used  for 
worship.  Against  the  wall  and  in 
line  with  the  columns  are  16  pilasters, 
and  on  the  lower  part  of  the  shaft  of 
each  are  pairs  of  figures  fi*om  3  to  4} 
ft.  high.  There  are  photographs  of 
the  temples  in  the  "  Arch,  of  Dhdr.  and 
M.,"  published  in  1866.  The  temple 
of  Pdpndth  here  is  90  ft.  long. 
Including  the  porch,  and  40  broad. 
There  are  16  pillars  in  the  hall  and  4 
in  the  inner  chamber,  exclusive  of 
those  in  the  porches. 

AiTvalli  is  8  m.  to  the  N.E.  of  Patta- 
dakal.  There  is  a  Jaina  cave  here, 
which  has  been  described  by  Mr.  Bur- 
gess at  p.  37  of  his  Report  of  1874. 
There  is  also  a  BrAbmanical  cave,  de- 
scribed by  him,  which  id  to  the  N.W. 


of  the  village  of  Aiwalli.  The  Durga 
temple  also  has  some  very  remark- 
able carving.  Here,  too,  are  many 
dolmens. 


ROUTE   14. 

BELGAON  TO  GOTUR  AND  THE  FALL3 
OP  GOKAK. 

The  stages    on  this   route    are  as 
follows : — 


From 

To 

Tdki'i      . 

Buttrammatti  .    . 
SutgaUi 

Hallagi      .        .    . 
Gukkalgu^i  . 
Gotiir        .       .    . 

Total    . 

Time 

in 
Hours. 

Belgdo 

Takii .        .    . 
Buttrammatti 
Sutgatti    .    . 
Hallagi  . 
Gukkalgu4i  . 

6 

5.J 

0 

5 

5 

3 

3)i 

After  leaving  Belgdon,  you  pass  on 
a  hill  to  the  right,  a  small  fort,  and 
from  Buttrammatti  you  descend  a  long 
Ghdt  to  Sutgatti,  at  which  latter  place 
the  T.  B.  is  1  m.  beyond  the  place 
where  you  change  horses  and  a  little 
off  the  road  to  the  left.  There  is  a 
thick  but  not  high  jungle  here,  which 
comes  down  close  to  the  waUs  of  the 
T.  B.,  and  hares,  partridges,  peacocks, 
and  spotted  deer  are  plentiful.  A  few 
years  ago  a  panther  or  tiger  carried  off 
a  cow  which  was  tied  up  in  the  inclo- 
sure  of  the  T.  B.,  between  the  bangld 
and  the  kitchen.  Water  here  must  be 
paid  for.  The  GatparbA  river  runs 
close  by,  but  the  water  is  said  to  give 
fever  ;  good  water,  however,  may  be 
had  from  the  well.  The  Gotir  bangl4 
is  very  comfortable,  and  a  sportsman 
might  spend  a  few  days  ver^r  plea- 


254 


JRoute  14. — Belgdoh  to  the  Falls  of  Golcdk.        Sect.  11. 


santly  at  it.  Between  Sutgatti  and 
6oti!iT  is  a  toll  of  4  dnds.  The  road 
from  Gotti  to  Gok^  at  2  m.  from 
Gotiir  turns  ofE  to  the  right,  and  is 
nothing  but  a  village  road,  impraotic- 
able  except  in  dry  weather.  It  is 
made  of  earth,  the  streams  are  un- 
bridged,  and  there  are  deep  ruts  and 
holes  everywhere.  The  stages  from 
Gotiir  to  GokAk  are  : — 


From 


Gotiir  ; 
Hukeri    .    . 

Small  village 
Dhiipddl .    . 


To 


Hukeri 

Small  village  off  the 

road    .        .        .    . 

Dhupd41     .        .       • 

Falls  of  Gokik      .    . 

Total    .    . 


Miles. 


6 

6 

11 

2 


25 


At  1^  m.  after  leaving  the  main 
road  from  Gotiir  you  come  to  a 
deep  watercourse,  where,  owing  to  the 
mud,  it  is  very  possible  to  be  upset. 
This  Nilah  or  stream  Is  called  the  Ka- 
pardeva,  and  the  water  is  10  ft.  deep  in 
the  rains.  Sir  K.  Temple  got  through  it 
in  May,  but  only  by  the  aid  of  the  vil- 
lagers. At  Hukeri  there  is  a  ruined 
palace  and  3  domed  mausoleums  of  Mu- 
^ammadan  nobles  of  Bijdpiir,  about  2^ 
centuries  old.  English  travellers  stop 
in  one  of  the  mausoleums,  which  is 
clean,  but  there  are  no  conveniences 
of  any  kind.  The  town  of  Hukeri  ex- 
tends 3  m.  to  the  tomb  of  Plr  Girdhar, 
a  white-domed  building.  On  the  left 
of  the  road  is  a  fort  belonging  to  the 
chief  of  Nirli.  There  is  no  inscription 
at  Hukeri.  There  are  some  bad 
pitches  along  the  road  with  Ndlahs  at 
the  bottom,  and  pieces  of  rocky  ground 
where  carriage-wheels  may  easily  be 
broken.  Along  the  road  to  the  left 
are  Isolated  Mils,  and  on  one  is  a 
temple.  About  the  10th  m.  from  the 
last  stage  you  turn  off  the  road  to  the 
right  to  go  to  Dhiipddl,  and  pass  over 
a  rocky  heath.  After  1 J  m.  you  come 
to  the  huts  of  the  prisoners  sent  from 
Belgdon,  from  600  to  700  in  num- 
ber, all  for  short  terms,  the  longest 
being  7  years.  They  are  under  the 
efl&cient  control  of  Mr.  Mc  Carter,  for- 
merly, in  the  Dragoons.    He  has  80 


warders  and  peons.  The  prisoners 
work  solely  at  the  Madhol  Canal. 
They  are  chained  together  at  night. 
There  is  no  classification.  There  have 
been  escapes  here,  but  no  violence.  A 
p&lki  with  8  bearers  can  be  hired  to 
go  to  the  Falls  for  Ks.  3.  The  l^al 
claim  is  only  2  dnds  per  man.  The 
Falls  are  called  Dabdabd  by  the  na- 
tives, and  are  2  m.  direct  distance 
from  the  village  of  Dhiipddl,  but  the 
path  lies  among  thick  bushes  of  prickly 
pear,  through  which  there  is  no  pass- 
ing, so  you  must  go  round  them. 

Falls  of  Gokdk. — The  following  ac- 
count of  the  Falls  is  from  the  pen  of 
that  keen  observer  and  distinguished 
officer,  the  late  Captain  Newbold,  who 
died  at  Mahdbaleshwar  on  the  29th  of 
May,  1850 — "The  subordinate  ranges 
of  Gok4k  and  Kotabangi  form  the  E. 
flank  of  the  W.  Ghdts,  and  run  in  a 
paiallel  direction  here  about  S.  by  E. 
At  Gokdk,  the  upper  portions  of  this 
range  present  mural  precipices  with 
either  fliat  tabular  summits  or  running 
in  narrow  crested  ridges.  They  are 
enclosed  from  the  E.  by  a  picturesque 
gorge,  through  which  the  Gatparba 
hurries  from  its  mountain  sources  into 
the  elevated  plains  of  the  Dakhan 
near  the  town  of  Gokdk,  which  is 
about  3^  m.  E.  of  the  Falls.  The  road 
lay  along  the  bottom  and  side  of  this 
defile,  on  the  r.  b.  of  the  river,  which 
was  now  (July)  swollen  by  the  mon- 
soon freshes  from  the  W.  Ghd^ts.  It 
varied  in  breadth  from  90 -to  300  yds., 
presenting  a  rapid  muddy  stream, 
brawling  and  rushing  from  the  alter- 
nate confinement  and  opening  out  of  its 
rocky  channel.  It  is  unf ordable  from 
the  middle  of  May  to  the  middle  of 
Sept.  The  water  at  the  dry  season 
ford,  a  little  below  the  town,  is  now 
15  ft.  deep.  The  sources  are  said  to  be 
near  Bandar  or  Gandar  Ga^h  a  little 
N.  of  the  main  Ghdt.  After  a  course 
of  about  100  m.,  watering  the  plains  of 
Kaladgl  and  Bdgalkot,  it  finds  its  way 
through  the  gaps  in  the  Sltddongar 
hills  to  the  Kri^in4,  which  it  joins  at 
the  Kudli  Sangam.  After  an  hour 
spent  in  winding  up  this  rugged  defile, 
the  Falls,  the  roar  of  which  we  dis- 
tinctly heaid  during  the  silence  of  the 


Sect.  II. 


Roitte  14. — Falls  of  GolcdL 


255 


night  at  the  town  of  Gokjik,  at  a  sud- 
den angle  of  the  road  became  partly 
visible,  presenting  the  magnificent 
spectacle  of  a  mass  of  water  contain- 
ing upwards  of  16,000  cubic  ft.  preci- 
pitated from  the  tabular  surface  of  the 
sandstone  into  a  gorge  forming  the 
head  of  the  defile,  the  bottom  of  which 
is  about  178  ft.  below  the  lip  of  the 
cataract.  The  Gatparbd,  a  little  above 
the  fall,  is  apparently  about  250  yds. 
across,  but  contracts  to  80  as  the  brink 
of  the  chasm  is  approached  ;  conse- 
quently the  density  and  velocity  of  the 
watery  mass  is  much  increased,  and  it 
hurries  down  the  shelving  tables  of 
rock  with  frightful  rapidity  to  its  faU. 
The  fall  over  the  face  of  the  precipice 
seems  slow  and  sullen  from  the  ve- 
locity of  the  surface  water  of  the  rapid, 
and  from  the  great  denseness  of  the 
body ;  and  it  plunges  heavily  down, 
with  a  deep  thundering  sound,  which 
we  heard  during  the  previous  night  at 
our  encampment,  3J  m.  farther  down 
the  river.  This  ponderous  descent  and 
the  heavy  muddy  colour  of  the  water 
conveys  a  feeling  of  weight  through 
the  eye  to  the  senses,  which  is  relieved 
by  the  brightness  and  airiness  of  thin 
clouds  of  white  vapour  and  amber- 
coloured  spray  which  ascend  from  the 
basin  at  the  bottom  of  the  gorge  in 
curling  wreaths,  curtaining  the  lower 
portions  of  the  fall,  and  through  which 
the  basin  was  only  seen  at  intervals, 
when  its  surface  was  swept  by  the 
fitful  gusts  that  swept  up  the  glen. 
Bising  above  the  cliffs  that  confine  the 
falls,  the  watery  particles  vanish  as 
they  ascend ;  but,  again  condensing, 
descend  in  gentle  showers,  which  are 
felt  at  a  short  distance  round  the  head 
of  the  Falls.  Spray  bows,  varying  in 
brightness,  distinctness,  and  extent, 
according  to  the  quantity  of  light  re- 
fracted, and  the  modification  of  the 
vapour,  lent  their  prismatic  tints  to  the 
ever  ascending  wreaths;  the  largest 
(observed  about  4  P.M.),  formed  an 
arch  completely  across  the  river, 
rose,  and,  receding  as  the  sun  sank, 
gradually  disappeared  with  it.  Like 
the  rainbow,  they  are  only  produced 
on  the  surface  of  the  cloud  opposed  to 
the  snn*s  rays.    The  size  and  distance 


from  each  other  of  the  drops  compos- 
ing the  different  portions  of  the  spray 
cloud  evidently  influenced  the  bril- 
liancy of  the  refracted  colours,  the  tints 
being  brightest  in  those  portions  where 
the  drops  were  of  medium  size  and 
density,  and  dullest  where  the  watery 
particles  were  smallest  and  closest 
together.  The  velocity  of  the  surface 
water  of  the  rapid  was  about  9  ft.  per 
second,  and  its  depth  10  ft.  About 
2J  m.  farther  up  the  river,  near  the 
village  of  Kunir,  beyond  the  rapids, 
is  a  ford  in  the  dry  season,  and  a  safe 
ferry  during  the  monsoon.  A  tumbler- 
full  of  the  turbid  water  deposited 
l-50th  of  its  bulk,  of  a  fine  i-eddish 
clay,  not  calcareous, — a  fact  show- 
ing that  the  lime  which  exists  in 
the  sediment  of  this  river  at  its  con- 
fluence with  the  Kji^hnA  must  have 
been  derived  from  the  intermediate 
plains.  The  pebbles  brought  down 
are  chiefly  quartz  granitic,  and  from 
the  hypogene  schists,  with  a  few  of 
chalcedony ;  the  sands  containing 
grains  of  magnetic  iron.  The  boiling 
point  of  water  at  the  plateau  of  sand- 
stone from  which  the  cataract  falls 
gives  2,817  ft.  above  the  level  of  the 
sea.  The  mean  temperature  of  the 
place,  approximated  by  Boussingault's 
method,  is  78°,  which  I  should  think 
rather  too  high,  as  the  temperature  of 
a  spring  close  by  was  only  76°.  The 
temperature  of  the  air  in  the  shade  at 
the  time  was  78°.  The  mean  tempe- 
rature of  Dh^rwdd,  which  stands 
much  lower,  is  calculated  by  Christie 
at  75°.  The  head  of  the  fissure,  which 
is  elliptical  in  form,  with  mural  sides 
of  sandstone,  has  much  the  appearance 
of  having  been  cut  back,  like  Niagara, 
by  the  absorbing  action  of  the  water, 
for  the  space  of  about  100  yds.  Large 
rocks,  with  angular  and  worn  surfaces, 
evidently  dislodged  from  the  rocks  on 
the  spot,  are  seen  in  the  bed  and  on 
the  sides  of  the  river  below  the  deep 
basin,  the  receptacle  of  the  fallen 
waters,  and  on  its  margin.  The  great 
hardness  and  compact  structure  of  the 
sandstone  above  the  Falls  offers  great 
obstacles  to  their  rapid  recession.  The 
cliffs,  however,  flanking  the  right'  side 
of  the  river  below,  are  rent  by  nearly 


256 


Route  14. — Belgdon  to  the  Falls  of  Gohdh         Sect.  11. 


vertical  fissures  from  summit  to  base, 
by  one  of  which  I  descended  to  the 
bed.  The  direction  of  two  of  the 
largest  was  about  E.S.E.  They  are 
crossed  nearly  at  right  angles  by 
minor  cracks,  which  thus  insulate  por- 
tions of  the  rock.  The  bases  of  these 
tottering  pinnacles  are  often  under- 
mined by  the  action  of  the  water,  and 
the  mass  tumbles  headlong  into  the 
stream.  The  sandstone,  in  its  lower 
portions,  is  interstratified  with  layers 
of  shale,  the  softness  of  which  facili- 
tates this  process  of  undermining. 
These  shales  are  of  a  purplish-brown 
and  yellowish-brown  colour,  with  mi- 
nute spangles  of  mica  disseminated, 
and  between  the  lamina  contain  in- 
crustations of  common  alum  (sulphate 
of  alumina).  The  alum  is  earthy  and 
impure,  and  sometimes  has  a  mammil- 
lated  surface,  resembling  the  alum  in- 
crustations in  the  ferruginous  shales 
cresting  the  copper  mountain  near 
Balldri.  It  is  found  in  considerable 
quantities  in  a  small  cave  near  the 
foot  of  the  Falls.  The  ripple  mark,  so 
often  seen  on  the  sandstones  of  Europe, 
is  observed  in  great  distinctness  on 
the  tabular  surfaces  of  the  cliffs,  and 
in  exposed  layers  of  the  subjacent 
beds,  at  least  100  ft.  below  the  surface. 
Its  longitudinal  direction  is  various, 
but  generally  S.  25°  W.,  indicating  the 
E.S.E.  and  W.N.W.  direction  ot  the 
current  which  caused  them.  The  rip- 
ple marks  on  the  sandstones  of  Ka- 
dapa  and  Karniil  have  a  generally 
similar  direction.  At  the  bottom  of 
the  deep  fissures  in  the  sandstone 
cliffs  already  described,  accumulations 
have  formed  of  fallen  fragments  of 
rocks,  sticks  and  leaves,  etc.,  from 
above,  intermingled  with  the  dung  and 
bones  of  bats,  rats,  and  wild  pigeons, 
with  a  few  sheep  and  goat  bones. 
Some  of  the  latter  have  the  appearance 
of  having  been  gnawed  by  hyenas, 
jackals,  or  other  beasts  of  prey ;  many, 
however,  are  evidently  the  remains  of 
animals  that  have  fallen  from  above, 
as  the  bones  are  fractured.  The  upper 
portions  of  these  fissures  have  some- 
times been  choked  by  rock  and  rubbish 
from  above.  Their  sides,  though  gene- 
rally smooth,  are  marked  with  shallow 


polished  grooves.    I  made  two  exca- 
vations through  the  floor  of  the  prin- 
cipal fissure,  in  the  hope  of  meeting 
with  organic  remains,  but    in  vain. 
After  penetrating  the  surface  layer  of 
loose  stones  and  bats*  dung,  a  fine  red 
earth  was  met  with,  imbedding  angu- 
lar fragments  of  sandstone,  and  a  few 
roundS  pebbles  of  it  and  quartz.  After 
digging  for  about  4  or  5  ft.  through 
th&,  farther  progress  was  prevented 
by  great  blocks  of  solid  rock.    The 
seed!  of  creepers  and  other  plants  ve- 
getate on  this  soil,  and  shoot  rapidly 
towards  the  surface,  shading  the  fis- 
sures with  their  leaves.    On  the  cliffs 
near  the  Falls,  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
river,  stands  a  small  group  of  Hindii 
temples  dedicated  to  Shiva.  The  prin- 
cipal shrine  is  a  massive  and  elabo- 
rately carved  structure  of  sandstone, 
elevated  on  a  high,  well-built  pediment 
above  the  reach  of  the  ordinary  floods, 
Seven  years  ago  three  of  the  steps  of 
the  N.  flight  ascending  this  terrace 
were  submerged  by  an  extraordinary 
rise  of  the  river.    The  VimAna  of  this 
temple  contains  the  Phallitic  emblem 
of  Shiva,  the  Linga,  guarded  by  the 
sacred  bull.    Here  we  passed  the  heat 
of  the  day.    On  the  opposite  bank  of 
the  river    rises  a  well  wooded  hill, 
about  100  ft.  above  the  brink  of  the 
rapid  on  which  stand  a  few  ruins  of 
other  Hindii  religious  structures.    The 
table-land  to  the  S.  of  the  Falls  is  co- 
vered with    low    jungle  of   Mimosa, 
Euphorbia,   Cassia  and  Bunder,  the 
Mend  Bundati  with  its  lilac  sweet- 
pea-like  blossom,  the  Ca/ntsa  spmanmi, 
Wehera  Tetrcmdra  and  other  thorny 
shrubs.    The  EwplwrUa  antiqua  and 
tortilis  were  in  flower  (July)." 

In  July  the  spectacle  of  the  Falls  is 
even  more  grand  than  would  appear 
from  the  above  description.  The  Gat- 
parba  is  then  between  1000  and  1500 
ft.  broad,  and  as  it  drains  an  area  of 
2000  sq.  m.  it  accumulates  so  much 
water  as  to  discharge  100,000  cubic  ft. 
of  water  every  second.  The  fall  of 
such  a  prodigious  mass  of  water  from 
a  height  of  176  ft.  into  the  rocky 
chasm  below,  the  stunning  roar  and 
the  thick  mist,  which  invests  the 
scene  with  still  greater  awe,  may  be 


Sect.  II. 


Falls  of  Gokdk. 


257 


imagined  but  not  described,  but  in  the 
6ij  weather,  even  so  early  after  the 
raifis  as  December,  the  grandeur  of  the 
scene  has  in  great  part  vanished.  The 
discharge  sinks  from  100,000  tons  a 
second  to  300  tons,  and  before  the  rains 
commence  even  this  amount  diminishes 
to  almost  nothing.  The  heat  of  the 
place,  even  in  December,  is  very  great. 
The  first  view  of  the  river  must  be 
taken  from  a  rock  which  overhangs 
the  stream.  The  traveller  will  stand 
on  a  vast  pile  of  broken  rocks  about 
70  ft.  above  and  to  the  E.  of  the  place 
where  the  water  passes  over  the  preci- 
pice. The  huge  fissures  in  the  rocks 
on  which  the  traveller  stands  will  not 
impress  him  with  any  exaggerated 
view  of  his  safety,  and  in  fact  it  is 
quite  probable  that  some  day  the  over- 
hanging mass  will  topple  down  into 
the  guli  below.  The  height  at  which 
the  visitor  is  above  the  stream  rather 
diminishes  the  effect,  and  the  fall  does 
not  appear  more  than  100  ft.  high,  but 
it  has  been  well  ascertained  that  the 
real  height  is  176  ft.,  and  the  pool  at 
the  bottom  is  said  to  be  200  ft.  deep, 
but  as  there  are  very  large  and  fierce 
alligators  in  it,  it  has  never  been 
accurately  sounded.  On  the  right 
bank  of  the  river  to  the  S.  of  the  tra- 
veller he  will  see  a  group  of  old  temples 
550  yds.  off,  and  in  great  floods  the 
river  extends  all  this  distance,  but  the 
usual  breadth  in  the  rains  is  500  yds. 
Even  in  December  the  Falls  are  re- 
stricted to  the  N.  side,  and  at  some 
distance  above  them,  people  can  ford 
the  stream.  At  this  time  the  river  is 
divided  into  2  streams  41  ft.  and  55  ft. 
)>road,  while  at  the  bottom  of  the  fall 
the  united  stream  is  120  broad,  but 
much  of  the  water  does  not  go  over 
the  fall,  but  sinks  through  the  rocks. 
After  satisfying  himself  with  looking 
at  the  Falls  from  above,  the  traveller 
will  descend  132  steps,  cut  in  the  rock 
to  the  river-bed  before  it  flows  over 
the  fall.  On  a  steady  pony  there  is 
no  difficulty  in  riding  down  these 
steps.  At  the  bottom  of  them  there  is 
a  little  temple  to  Basava,  of  which 
only  the  shrine  and  entrance  to  it  have 
escaped  complete  ruin.  Over  the 
porch  is  a  carved  slab,  in  the  centre  of 

[i?o?»6ay— 1880.] 


which  is  Kdll,  with  a  crooked  sword. 
In  her  8  hands  she  holds  a  shield,  a 
human  head,  a  mace,  etc.  At  her  left 
foot  is  a  figure  on  a  dog,  at  her  right 
another  beating  a  drum.  The  next 
compartment  nearer  the  shrine  has  a 
dancing  female  and  smaller  figures. 
In  the  corner  compartment  to  the 
right  is  Ganpati,  in  another  is  a  female 
with  a  strap  across  the  bosom,  seizing 
a  smaller  female  by  the  hair.  In  the 
compartment  on  the  E.  side  is  the 
Vardha  incarnation.  Higher  up  the 
hill  are  fragments  of  4  other  temples, 
and  a  much  larger  one  surrounded  by 
prickly  pear,  partly  filled  with  earth 
and  infested  by  bats.  On  the  S.  side 
of  the  river  are  6  temples,  of  which 
that  to  Mahdlingeshvara  is  the  prin- 
cipal. It  is  a  plain  structure  with  8 
porches,  each  of  which  has  3  pillars, 
and  there  is  a  row  of  single  pillars 
inside.  The  temple  is  built  of  large 
stones,  with  flat  ceilings.  The  pUl^ 
in  the  centre  of  the  temple  are  8  ft.  9 
high,  exclusive  of  the  brackets,  and 
have  square  bases,  octagon  mouldings, 
then  a  square  plain  block,  round  neck 
and  capital,  and  a  square  abacus.  The 
pillars  of  the  porches  have  round 
smooth  shafts.  In  the  E.  porch  is  a 
long  inscription,  in  ancient  characters, 
so  besmeared  with  paint  as  to  be  ille- 
gible. It  appears  to  be  much  older 
thaA  the  temple.  There  are  Shiva 
dwdrpdls  on  the  jambs  of  the  door, 
with  4  hands,  and  holding  the  trident 
and  small  drum  of  Shiva.  On  the 
wall  behind  on  the  right  is  Edrtikeya, 
and  on  the  left  a  deity  with  a  mace. 
The  brackets  of  the  pillar  capitals  have 
the  cobra  ornament  as  at  Belgdoii. 
The  outside  of  the  roof  is  much  ruined, 
but  the  style  has  been  Dravidian.  This 
temple  is  70J  ft.  long  and  42  broad. 
It  is  ascended  to  by  a  flight  of  15  steps. 
On  the  E.  opposite  the  shrine  is  ano- 
ther temple  with  4  square  columns  in 
front.  The  door  to  the  shrine  is  some- 
what elaborately  carved  with  2  male 
and  2  female  figures  below  on  the 
jambs.  On  the  step  are  2  conch  shells 
forming  the  buds  of  a  flower,  as  in  the 
Jain  temples  of  Nemndth  and  Yaish- 
nava  temples.  Behind  this  temple  is 
a  small  one  facing  E.  with  an  ante- 

B 


258 


Haute  15. — Gotdr  to  Panlidld. 


Sect.  II. 


chamber  and  porch,  abont  6  ft.  high 
inside.  The  door  of  the  shrine  is 
tastefully  carved,  and  has  a  Ganpati, 
the  mark  of  a  Shiva  temple,  on  the 
lintel.  S.  of  this  and  facing  N.  is 
another  shrine  which  appears  to  be 
very  old.  It  is  copied  &om  a  Bud- 
dhist cave,  and  is  perhaps  one  of  the 
oldest  temples  here.  To  the^.W.  of 
this  is  a  neat  little  temple  witii  4 
columns  inside.  On  the  screen  are  4 
square  columns  and  2  pilasters.  The 
snake  is  represented  on  the  brackets  of 
the  pillars.  The  floors  have  been  re- 
cently dug  up  in  search  of  treasure. 
To  the  "W.  of  the  great  temple  are  the 
remains  of  another  on  a  smaller  scale. 
To  the  S.E.  of  the  village  of  Koniir, 
which  is  1  m.  from  the  Falls,  are  the 
remains  of  many  dolmens.  The  canal, 
which  is  being  dug  from  this  place,  is 
a  most  important  public  work,  and  it 
is  estimated  that  its  total  cost  will  be 
one  million  four  hundred  thousand 
pounds.  It  will  be  200  m.  long,  and 
it  will  irrigate  600  sq.  m.  It  is  10  ft. 
deep  and  100  broad,  and  will  be  car- 
ried 60  m.  to  the  frontier  of  Madhol, 
a  small  state  with  IJ  l&khs  revenue. 
It  will  pass  through  that  state  and 
through  Jamkhandi  to  B^alkot  in  the 
Kaladgi  Collectorate,  and  15  m.  due 
E.  of  Kaladgi  itself.  Madhol  and 
Jamkhandi  are  in  the  zone  which  the 
rains  pass  over,  though  they  are  heavy 
near  the  Ghdts,  and  sufficient  in  the 
districts  to  the  E.  of  those  states. 


ROUTE    15. 

GOT^rB  TO  KOLHAPUB  AND  PANHALA. 

The   stages   on   this  route   are  as 
follows : — 


From 

To 

Miles 

Gotiir  . 

Bhankhesbwar.    . 
Kingala 

NlpSii     .       .    . 
Bondalgarh  . 
Kigfd      .        .    . 
Bhiiga  . 

Shankheshwar 
Kjingala      .    . 
Nip4ni     . 
Sondalga^h.    . 
K^      . 
Shiiga .       .    . 
Kolh^piir 

Total    . 

6 
5 
5 
6 

42 

Halfway  to  Shankheshwar,  there  is  a 
toll  of  the  usual  4  dnds.  At  Shan- 
kheshwar there  is  an  old  temple  about 
i  of  m.  off  the  road  to  the  left.  The 
word  means,  "Lord  of  the  Conch 
Shell,"  a  name  of  Vishnu.  There  is 
a  long  up-hill  pull  to  K4ngala,  and 
then  an  equally  long  descent  of  the 
steep  Tondi  Ghd^. 

Mpdni, — ^The  bangU  at  Nip&ni  is 
very  neat,  and  surrounded  with  trellis 
work,  on  which  flowering  creepers  are 
trained.  It  is  a  little  way  off  the  road 
to  the  left.  The  fort  and  town  are  on 
the  other  side  of  the  road.  Before 
i^cs^^^^u^S  %  you  come  to  a  ruined  wall 
of  the  fort,  which  was  much  more  ex- 
tensive once  than  it  is  now.  The  Fort, 
vnthin  which  is  the  palace,  is  300  yds. 
to  the  N.E.  of  the  T.B.  It  is  strongly 
built  of  stone,  and  there  is  a  wet  ditch. 
The  gateway  is  handsome.  Close  to 
the  gateway  is  the  palace,  built  80 
years  ago  by  Siddoji  Nimb4Ikar,  to 
whom  the  £)uke  of  Wellington,  then 
Colonel  Wellesley,  in  1804  gave  the 
following  certiflcate : — 

"  Siddoji  B4o  Nimbdlkar  joined  me 
with  the  body  of  Mardtha  troops  under 
his  command,  in  the  month  of  March, 
1803,  when  I  was  on  my  march  to  Fund, 
with  the  British  troops  to  restore  the 
PeshwA  to  the  exercise  of  the  powers 
of  H.  H.'s  Government.  This  service 
having  been  effected  by  the  arrival  oi 


Sect.  II. 


Boute  15. — Nipdni — Kolh&pHr. 


259 


H.  H.  at  Fund,  Siddoji  Rio  Nimbilkar 
accompanied  the  British  army  on  ite 
march  from  Pnni  in  the  month  of  June 
following  to  oppose  the  confederacy 
then  forming  bj  the  K.  Mari^  chiefe 
against  the  British  GoYemment  and 
their  allies,  Rio  Pandit  Pradhin  and 
the  Kij;im.  He  served  dming  the 
war  which  ensued  in  a  manner  satis- 
factory to  me.  His  troops  were  en- 
gaged with  the  enemy  repeatedly,  and 
always  conducted  themselves  well,  and 
Siddoji  Rio  Nimbilkar  distiaguished 
himself  and  them  in  a  late  action 
against  a  formidable  band  of  free- 
booters who  had  assembled  upon  the 
frontiers  of  the  Peshwi's  territories, 
and  cut  ofi  the  supplies  of  the  city  of 
Puni. 

'*I  have  given  him  this  paper  in 
testimony  of  my  appirobation  of  his 
conduct  and  that  of  his  troops  ;  and  I 
request  that  all  British  officers  and 
others  to  whom  this  paper  may  at  an^ 
time  be  shown,  will  consider  Siddoji 
Rio  Nimbilkar  as  the  &iend  of  the 
British  Government. 

^*  (Signed)   Abthub  Wellesley, 

"  Major- General* 


i< 


PuvA,  MaMi  ^th,  1804.' 


The  title  of  the  chief  is  Desil,  and 
the  present  Desil  was  educated  at  the 
Rijkumir  College  at  Rijkot,  and  being 
still  a  minor  his  mother  conducts  affairs. 
There  is  nothing  in  the  interior  of  the 
palace  very  remarkable.  The  pillars 
in  the  court  are  of  teak,  and  neatly 
carved.  At  4  m.  past  Sondalgafh  there 
is  a  toll  of  four  inis.  At  Sondal- 
garh  there  is  a  fort  to  the  right  of 
the  road.  The  country  is  very  well 
cultivated  till  after  Eigal,  which  is 
a  populous,  handsome  town,  with  3 
palaces  of  the  Riji  of  Eolhipiir.  The 
Jiglr  of  Eigal  was  divided  between 
the  3  principal  branches  of  the  Ghi^ke 
family,  who  bear  the  title  of  Vazirat 
Ma'ib,  "  Seat  of  Ministiy."  The  pre- 
sent chief  of  Eigal  is  Sirjl  Rio  Ghi^ke, 
who,  had  he  not  been  adopted  at  Eigal, 
would  have  been  Riji  of  Eolhipiir. 
This  family  has  intermarried  with  that 
of  the  Riji  of  Eolhipiir.  The  esti- 
mated gi-oBS  revenue  is  about  Rs. 
70,000. 


KolMpilir,—Th!Q  T.  B.  at  Eolhipiir 
lies  at  the  S.  end  of  the  cantonment, 
and  1800  yds.  to  the  S.  by  E.  of  the 
Political  Agent's  house,  which  is  a  very 
handsome  well-built  mansion.  800  yds. 
S.  of  the  T.  B.  is  the  cemetery,  and 
nearly  the  same  distance  to  the  W.  of 
the  T.  B.  is  the  church.  The  mission 
house  is  300  yds.  to  the  W.  by  S.  of  the 
church.  About }  of  m.  to  the  S.W.  of 
the  Political  Agent's  house  is  a  hand- 
some, modem  house  belonginfi:  to  the 
Chief  of  Inchalkarunjl  Vangaliir.  In- 
chalkiminjl  is  18  m.  E.  of  Eolhipiir, 
but  the  chief  often  resides  in  his  town 
house.  The  jiglr  was  given  in  1713 
to  Kiro  Mah&eo  for  distinguished 
conduct  in  the  field  by  Santajl  Rio 
Ghorpade,  and  Niro's  family  have  as- 
sumed the  name  of  Ghorpade,  the 
latter  family  being  one  of  the  oldest  in 
the  Maritha  empire.  This  jiglr  has 
an  area  of  800  sq.  m.  and  brings  in 
rather  more  than  a  l^h  a  year.  Its 
chief  is  really  the  head  of  the  Pat- 
wardans,  but  a  feudal  retainer  of  Eol- 
hipiir. At  \  of  m.  S.W.  of  his  house  is 
the  Judge's  Court,  the  Town  Hall,  and 
People's  Park,  in  which  is  a  house ; 
all  three  are  neat  modem  buildings. 
The  traveller  will  enter  the  fort  from 
the  N.  by  the  Shanwir  or  "  Saturday" 
gate,  built  by  'All  'Adil  Shih  of  Blji- 
piir,  who  reigned  1557  to  1579.  It  has 
2  buttresses  like  pilasters,  one  on  either 
side.  At  300  yds.  S.  of  this  is  the 
Nal^ir  EhAnah  or  "  Music  Gallery," 
which  is  the  entrance  to  the  palace 
square.  To  the  right  as  you  enter  is 
the  Rijwidi  or  palace,  with  a  stone 
gateway  in  the  centre  and  woodeb 

gillars.  The  Rinls  live  in  the  rooms 
.  of  the  gateway.  Adjoining  their 
rooms,  in  the  S.  face  of  the  square,  is 
the  Treasury.  It  was  the  scene  of  a 
remarkable  event  in  1857.  It  was 
guarded  by  a  Niik  and  5  men  of  the 
Eolhipiir  in&ntry.  A  man  of  noto- 
riously bad  character,  named  Feringo 
Shinde,  brought  down  from  Panhili  a 
body  of  Gadkuls,  and  formed  a  junc- 
tion with  the  mutineers  of  the  271h 
N.  I.,  who  had  killed  three  of  their 
officers.  The  whole  body  of  rebels 
entered  the  square  and  called  on  the 
Niik  to  open  the  Treasury.  This  officer, 

8  2 


260 


Route  15. — Gotiir  to  Panhdld. 


Sect.  II- 


named  K&shi  Ubarl,  refused,  though 
threatened  with  death,  and  being  called 
oh  a  second  time  to  open,  with  threats 
of  being  blown  in  with  the  door  by  a 
cannon  which  the  rebels  pointed  at 
him,  he  looked  up  to  the  2  Rdjas, 
Bdb^  $^^ib  and  Chimma  §&^ib,  who 
were  at  a  window  above  him,  and 
asked  for  their  orders.  They  replied, 
"  Don't  ask  us,'*  on  which  the  NAik 
rnised  his  musket  and  shot  Feringo 
Shinde,  who  was  just  about  to  fire  the 
gun,  dead,  the  ball  going  through  his 
right  groin.  On  hearing  the  shot,  some 
of  the  Bombay  103rd  Fusileers  and  the 
Kolhdptir  Infantry,  who  were  outside 
the  ShanwAr  gate,  burst  it  open,  and 
took  the  rebels,  who  were  already  re- 
treating, in  the  rear.  They  killed  many 
on  the  spot,  and,  collecting  about  60, 
put  them  in  a  row  in  the  palace  square, 
and  shot  them  at  once.  The  gallant 
Ndik  is  now  §iibahddr-major  of  his 
regiment.  Adjoining  the  Treasury,  in 
the  S.  face  of  the  square,  are  other 
Governmejit  offices,  and  behind  them 
the  shrine  of  AmbA  B41,  the  tutelary 
deity  of  Kolhdpiir.  The  main  portion 
of  the  building  is  built  of  black  stone 
from  local  quarries.  The  dome  is  said 
to  have  been  put  up  by  ShankardchArya 
of  Shankeshwar,  and  does  not  harmonise 
with  the  carved  woodwork  below,  which 
resembles  the  style  of  Jain  temples  of 
the  12th  century  in  Kanara.  The  Jains 
claim  this  temple,  but  say  it  was  dedi- 
cated to  Padmdvatl.  The  walls  are 
covered  outside  with  mouldings  and 
with  figures  in  niches,  along  the  upper 
portion  of  the  lower  story.  The  whole 
length  of  the  building  from  E.  to  W.is 
144  ft.,  and  from  N.  to  S.  167  ft.,  and 
the  height  to  the  top  of  the  Shikhar 
is  82J  ft.  To  the  left  of  the  entrance 
on  the  left  side  of  the  porch,  in  Devd- 
nii;?iri  characters,  is  the  date  Shaka 
1140=A.D.  1218.  On  a  pillar  on  the 
left  hand,  after  entering  the  courtyard, 
in Devan^ari,  is  Shaka  1168.  Although 
the  dimensions  of  the  edifice  are  as 
^iven  above,  including,  as  they  do, 
sundry  other  accessory  buildings,  and 
3  shrines,  that  of  AmbA  BAi,  with  that 
of  Mahd  K411  on  the  left  and  of  Mahd 
Saraswatl  on  the  right,  the  shrine  of 
Ambd  Bai  alone  is  only  80  ft.  from  E. 


to  W.  and  79  from  N.  to  S.  It  has  a 
raised  passage  round  it  4  ft.  high,  with 
21  pillars  outside  and  36  inside.  Be- 
sides these,  there  rise  from  the  ground 
floor  and  10  ft.  from  the  stylobate,  4 
large  pillars  going  almost  to  the  roof. 
Their  bases,  14  ft.  high,  are  of  black 
basalt  brought  from  Jotebd's  hills, 
and  above  them  are  wooden  pillars 
12  ft.  high,  and  then  carved  wooden 
scalloped  arches  of  teak.  The  roof  is 
of  tin,  painted  white  and  ornamented 
with  wood  carving  designed  by  Major 
Mant.  Below,  in  the  centre  of  the  E. 
side  of  the  court,  is  the  adytum,  where 
is  the  image  of  Ambd  Bdi.  A  brazen 
image  of  the  goddess  is  carried  round 
the  town,  in  a  triumphal  car,  on  the 
16th  of  Vaishdkh= April  May.  The 
image  is  then  carried  to  the  small 
temple  of  TemblAl,  where  an  offering 
is  made  to  it  by  a  virgin  daughter  of 
the  Patel  of  Baura.  The  great  bell  of 
the  temple  is  inscribed,  "Ave  Maria 
Gratis  Plena  Dominus  Tecum,"  and 
must  have  been  obtained  from  the 
Portuguese  about  the  year  1739.  The 
roof  was  unfinished  at  the  beginning  of 
the  present  year.  On  the  2nd  story  is 
a  DarbAr  room,  with  portraits  of  AkA 
B&i,  mother  of  the  chief  of  KAgal,  and 
of  the  late  Ahalyd  Bdl,  adoptive  mother 
of  the  late  Rdjd,  RAjA  BAm.  There  is 
also  a  picture  by  Mdlle.  Frls  (so  the 
name  is  spelt  in  Mardthl)  of  the  mau- 
soleum at  Florence,  erected  over  the 
spot  where  Rdj  AR4m's  body  was  burned. 
The  mausoleum  is  surrounded  by  an 
ornamental  railing,  within  which  is  a 
marble  plinth,  supporting  a  pedestal,  on 
which  is  the  bust  of  the  Bd]a,  coloured 
so  as  to  represent  an  Indian.  Over 
this  pedestal  and  bust  is  a  cupola, 
resting  on  scalloped  arches,  in  the  Indo- 
Saracenic  style,  designed  by  Major 
Mant,  B.E.  This  building  stands 
amongst  parterres  of  fiowers,  and  the 
Arno  fiowB  close  below.  The  lad/ 
sent  this  picture  as  a  present,  and  the 
Eolhdpiir  Government  sent  in  return 
gold  ornaments  of  the  Swami  pattern. 
In  the  same  room  is  a  handsome  chair, 
with  a  gilt  frame  and  the  royal  arms 
of  England  embroidered  on  the  back, 
said  to  have  been  given  by  the  Queen 
to  Rdjd  Rdm  when  he  visited  England* 


Sect.  II. 


£oute  15. — Kolhdp'dr. 


261 


In  a  small  side  room  is  a  state  bed 
with  a  white  satin  mattress  and  crimson 
satin  hangings.  The  sofa  and  chairs 
are  of  white  marble.  Opposite  is  a 
room  called  She^h  Maljall  or  "  room  of 
mirrors,"  with  a  number  of  pictures. 
In  the  3rd  story  is  an  armoury,  in 
which  are  many  curious  swords,  one 
which  must  have  belonged  to  Aurang- 
zlb,  for  it  has  in  Persian  the  name 
l^lamglr  and  the  date  A.H.  1021.  There 
is  also  a  Persian  sword,  given  by  Sir 
John  Malcolm  to  the  RAjd  of  his  time. 
The  E.  side  of  the  palace  square  is 
taken  up  with  the  Gymnasium,  and 
the  N.  side  by  the  Na]^Ar  KhAnah  and 
the  High  School,  a  very  handsome 
stone  building  to  the  E.  of  it.  The  gate 
itself  of  the  Nakdr  Khdnah  is  47  ft.  7 
high.  It  has  3  scalloped  arches,  a 
tall  one  in  the  centre,  and  a  smaller  on 
either  side.  Over  the  central  arch  is 
the  figure  of  a  tiger  inside  the  square, 
with  elephants  at  the  sides.  There  is 
a  turret  10  ft.  high  at  either  end  of  the 
rooms  above  the  arch.  The  building 
over  the  outside  gate  is  20  ft.  higher 
than  that  over  the  inside,  and  has  at 
each  comer  a  turret  ascended  to  by 
steps  12^  ft.  above  that  again,  so  that 
the  total  height  is  47  ft.  7  +  20  + 12  ft.  6 
=  80  ft.  1.  To  the  top  of  these  turrets 
they  used  to  ascend  in  former  days  and 
ring  a  bell  or  beat  a  drum  to  call 
public  meetings  or  to  sound  an  alarm. 
The  town  of  Kolhdpiir,  which  is  cir- 
cular, is  surrounded  by  a  stone  wall 
extending  If  m.  The  walls  average  in 
height  30  ft.  and  from  10  to  26  ft.  in 
thickness ;  and  a  wide  and  deep  ditch, 
with  a  rough  glacis,  encircles  the  whole. 
At  regular  distances  are  fortified  bas- 
tions, with  battlements  and  loop-holes. 
There  are  6  gates,  the  Shanw^,  Man- 
galwdr,  Rankala,  Gangd,  Aditwdr,  and 
Warun  Tirth.  All  these  gateways  are 
strongly  defended,  having  stout  wooden 
gates,  studded  with  long  projecting 
iron  spikes.  The  entrances  are  over 
drawbridges.  From  the  palace  the 
streets  diverge  as  radii  and  join  con- 
centric lanes  running  parallel  to  the 
outer  walls.  Kolhdpilir  has  a  pop.  of 
39,621,  and  is  the  capital  of  a  territory 
80  m.  long  from  N.  to  S.  and  68  from 
E.  to  W.,  with  a,  total  area  of  about 


3,184  sq.  m.  and  a  pop.  of  802,691. 
N.  of  the  town  is  a  sacx^  spot  called 
the  Brdhmapuri  Hill,  where  all  the 
Brdhmans  undergo  cremation.  About 
100  yds.  N.  of  this  is  what  is  called  the 
Rdnl's  Garden,  where  the  bodies  of  the 
ruling  family  are  burned.  It  is  close 
to  the  Pdnch  Gangd  river,  and  there 
are  2  sq.  tombs.  One  is  to  the  Senhor 
Clementi  de  Avila,  a  Spaniard  Lieut. 
Col.  of  the  infantry  of  Goa,  who  died 
Jan.  22nd,  1809.  The  other  is  to  Jules 
Komeu,  bom  in  1768  in  Languedoc, 
and  commanding  one  of  Sindhia's  regts. , 
who  was  killed  in  the  trenches  of  Kol- 
hapiir  on  the  23d  of  March,  1800.  From 
this  spot  is  seen  the  new  bridge  over 
the  PAnch  Gangd,  with  5  arches, 
begun  in  1874  and  finished  in  1878 
at  a  cost  of  £14,000.  Beyond  Rdni's 
Garden  is  a  massive  stone  gateway, 
20  ft.  high,  which  leads  to  the  ceno- 
taphs of  RAjA  Sambhdjl,  just  oppo- 
site the  door,  to  that  of  Sliivaji,  and 
more  to  the  left  those  of  TArd  BAl  and 
'Ai  BAl,  built  by  Rdjd  BawA.  ITie 
cantonment  at  Kolhdpi^r  is  almost  de- 
serted. The  KolhApir  infantry  lines 
are  to  the  N.,  with  the  race  course  to 
the  E.,  the  artillery  barracks  due  S., 
and  the  N.  I.  lines  to  the  S.E.  It 
appears  that  in  ancient  times  Kolhdpi^r 
was  subject  to  earthquakes ;  and,  in 
making  extensive  excavations,  many 
temples  and  other  buildings  are  dis- 
covered which  have  been  in  the  old 
time  overwhelmed  with  earth.  The 
rock  caves,  Mahtas.  or  Grihan,  are 
found  in  various  places,  one  in  the 
PanhAIA  fort,  and  another  at  the  PAndu 
Darah,  6  m.  W.  of  PanhAlA,  which  is 
at  the  head  of  a  wooded  chasm  en 
a  hill  1000  ft.  above  the  plain,  where 
one  apartment  is  27  ft.  4  in.  by  12 
ft.  8,  and  2  others  a  little  larger,  but 
none  of  these  places  are  worth  seeing 
after  visiting  Elephanta,  KArlf,  or 
Eliira. 

In  the  elaborate  report  on  the  Prin- 
cipality of  KolhApiir,  compiled  by 
Major  D.  C.  Graham,  of  the  28th  Bom- 
bay N.  I.,*  will  be  found  various  in- 
scriptions and  their  translations,  which 

*  "  Selections  from  the  Records  of  the  Boiu- 
"bay  Government"  No,  viU.  New  Series. 
Bombay,  1S54, 


262 


Boute  15. — Gotur  to  Fanhdld. 


Sect.  11. 


refer  to  dynasties  of  the  12th  and  13th 
centuries  a.d.  Before  that  date  tra- 
dition is  the  only  guide,  and  from  it, 
it  would  seem  that  in  the  heginning  of 
Uie  6th  century  A.D.  R4j4  B&m  ruled 
iver  all  the  countries  between  the 
N^irbad4  and  the  sea.  In  A.D.  789  a 
prince  of    J^nagar  overran  the    S. 

grovinces.  His  minister,  Him^  Pa&t. 
I  said  to  have  invented  the  Mof  or 
written  character  of  the  Mardthi  lan- 
guage. A  blank  follows  till  A.D.  1028, 
when  the  light  of  the  inscriptions  is 
first  reached.  An  inscription  found 
in  a  Jain  temple  at  Baibif^,  dated 
1202,  in  the  Sanskrit  language,  but  old 
Kanadl  character,  gives  the  genealogy 
of  a  conquering  prince  named  Lak^hmi 
Deo,  which  goes  back  about  174  years, 
and  shows  that,  in  1028,  a  dynasty  had 
been  established  which  ruled  over  the 
W.  part  of  KolhApiir.  The  founder 
was  Jlmiitawdhana  Shilahiir,  who  was 
a  branch  of  the  B&jds  who  reigned  for 
centuries  previous  at  Tagara.  At  the 
same  time,  in  the  13th  century,  there 
ruled  another  dynasty,  8  m.  from 
Kolh&piir,  at  Berad,  which  included 
Eolhdptir  itself  and  Panh^d ;  and 
another  at  Vish&lgarh,  where  tradition 
says  that  a  R4j&  Bhoj  reigned  in  A.D. 
688  ;  and,  finally,  a  fourth  at  Shan- 
keshwar.  There  are  still  remains  of  a 
palace  and  a  very  ancient  temple  at 
Berad,  and  it  is  said  that  the  seat  of 
government  was  transferred  thence  to 
Eolhdpi!ir  in  conser|uence  of  a  great 
earthquake  that  took  place  between 
the  13th  and  14th  centuries.  The 
Jimtitawdhan  dynasty  appears  to  have 
been  overthrown*  by  Shfingan  Deo, 
who  was  probably  a  T^ava  B&jptit. 
Inscriptions  in  the  Sanskrit  character 
of  the  Ch&lukya  dynasty  also  have 
been  dug  up  at  the  temple  of  Amb& 
B4i  at  Kolh4pi!ir,  but  unfortunately 
without  date.  There  is  reason  to  think, 
however,  that  they  are  the  oldest  that 
have  been  discovered.  The  earliest 
Persian  inscription  found  at  Vish^- 
garh  shews  that  the  J^fu^ammadans 
took  that  fort  in  A.D.  1234.  Malik 
Balj^lm,  who  led  the  invaders,  was 
canonized  after  death,  and  miracles 

♦  Grant  Duff,  vol.  1.  p.  29. 


were  pretended  to  be  wrought  at  his 
shrine.  This  is  all  that  can  be  ascer- 
tained at  present  regarding  the  his- 
tory of  the  division  before  the  Mu^am- 
madan  conquest ;  but  the  caves  and 
other  remains  shew  that  the  Buddhists 
were  numerous  and  powerful  here, 
probably  in  the  first  centuries  of  the 
Uhristian  sera.  It  is  to  be  anticipated 
that  many  discoveries  of  inscriptions 
will  yet  be  made  at  Bdnebe&niir, 
Hubll,  Ath^l,  and  other  ancient 
towns;  and,  when  all  these  are 
deciphered  and  compared,  much  of 
the  annals  of  the  early  Hindii  princes 
who  reigned  in  this  quarter  may  yet  be 
recovered. 

The  conquest  of  these  territories, 
which,  lor  some  years  previous  to  the 
battle  of  Talikot,  in  1565,  were  subject 
to  Bljdnagar,  was  not  entirely  com- 
pleted by  the  Mu^ammadans  till  the 
close  of  the  15th  century  A.D.,  and  in 
the  middle  of  the  next  the  country 
passed  into  Shivaji's  hands.  In  1690 
A.D.  Kolhiptb*,  as  a  province  of  the 
kingdom  of  Bijipi!ir,  was  reckoned  the 
5th  ^libah  of  Aurangzib*s  conquests  in 
the  Dakhan.  But  the  people  resisted 
the  Mughul  yoke,  and  at  Aurangzlb's 
death  the  Mardthas  became  possessed 
of  the  whole  province,  which  remained 
an  integral  part  of  the  Hardtha  em- 

Eire  until  1729,  when  it  was  formed 
ito  an  independent  principality,  un- 
der a  prince  of  the  house  of  SMvaji, 
whose  descent  is  as  follows  : — Shivaji 
left  two  sons,  Shambuji  or  Sambhaji 
and  B4j&  Bdm,  by  different  wives. 
B4j4  Bdm  was,  in  1689,  declared  Be- 
gent  after  Sambhaji's  execution  by 
Aurangzlb,  during  the  minority  of 
Sambhaji's  son  S&u,  who  was  shortly 
after  made  prisoner  by  the  Mughuls. 
In  1700,  B4j4  Bdm  died,  leaving,  by 
different  wives,  two  sons,  Shivaji  and 
Sambhaji,  of  whom  Shivaji  was  placed 
on  the  throne  by  his  mother,  Tdr4  B^, 
but  in  1708,  Sdhu,  being  released, 
seized  S4tdr&,  and  became  tiie  acknow- 
ledged head  of  the  Mardtha  nation. 
On  this,  Shivaji,  whose  adherents  were 
strong  in  the  S.,  fixed  himself  at  Pan- 
hdl&  and  Kolhdpiir.  This  prince  died 
of  small-pox  in  1712,  when  Bdmchan- 
dra  Pant  Amatya  placed  T&r&  B^  and 


Sect.  11. 


Bovte  15. — Kolhdpur. 


263 


ShiTajl'a   widow,  BhawAnl   BAl,*  in 
confinement,  and  raised  Sambhaji  to 
the  throne  of  Eolhdpiir.    Sarje  Bdo 
GhAtke,t  the  powerful  chief  of  K4gal, 
now  joined  Sambhaji,  and,  the  Mugful 
viceroj  of  the  Dakhan  also  assisting 
him,  the  struggle  for  supremacy  con- 
tinued for  13  years   with   alternate 
success.    In  1727  Sambhaji  made  great 
preparations  for  a  final  campaign,  but 
the  PeshwA,  Bdji  B^  Balil,  gained 
such  advantages  over  him,  that  after 
being  deserted  by  his  allies,  Kdnhoji 
A'ngria,  aod  the  Nisj^m,  he  was  obliged, 
in  1 729,  to  yield  his  claim  on  the  Mar^tha 
sovereignty  to  S4hu,  and  content  him- 
self  with    Kolhdpilr,   as   a   distinct 
principality.    Its  boundaries  were  the 
Wam&  and  Efi^hn^  on  the  X.  and  E., 
and  the  Tungabhadra  on  the  S.    From 
this  date,  then,  the  separation  between 
the  S4t4r4  and  Kolh^piir  families  be- 
came complete.    In  imitation  of  the 
elder  kingdom,  the  Bajd  of  Kolh^piir 
appointed  eight  grand  officers  of  State. 
Bhagwant  R&o  had  Yishdlga]:h  with 
the  office  of  Pratinidhi ;  Bdmchandra 
Nil  Kan^h  had  Bdord,  with  the  office 
of  PaAt  Amdtya ;  the  office  of  Seni- 
pati  or  General,  fell  to  Shidojl,  nephew 
of  Saiitaji  Ghodpade,  and  other  chiefs 
were    made    Pant    Sachiva,    Mantri, 
Dabir,  Ny&y&dhish,  and  Ny&yash&stri, 
In  December,  1760,  Sambhaji,  the 
last  lineal  descendant  of  Shivajl,  dying 
without  issue,  the  son  of  Shdhjl  Bhon- 
b16j  of  Kdiihwat,  a  descendant  of  the 
10th  son  of  Bhosaji,  of  the  line  of  Bdpa 
Bdwal,  of  Chitiir,  who  reigned  in  134 
A.D.,  was  carried  off  and  adopted,  and 
the  Queen,  with  5,000  followers,  set 
out  with  him  for  Ban&ras.    Her  party 
was  met  at  Jljiirl  by  the  PeshwA,  who, 
after  great  entreaty,  agreed   to   the 
adoption,  and   presented   the  young 
BAjd   with   a   magnificent    diamond 
ring.    In  October,  1762,  the  youth  was 
en&roned  at  PanAli  or  Panhdld,  under 
the  name  of  Shivajl,  and  rich  presents 
were  sent  to  him  by  the  Ni^dm,  Gaidar 

*  She  was  then  pregnant,  and,  in  1760,  her 
son,  Rdm  R^jd,  became  R^d  of  fi&t&ri, 

t  The  founder  of  this  family,  Kdm  Deo,  ac- 
qioiied  the  name  of  Oh&tke  by  suppressing  a 
famous  brigand  named  Oh&t,  B^  Graham's 
Jleport,  p.  604,  noU. 


*Ali,  and  all  the  neighbouring  chiefs. 
For  some  years  the  Queen  acted  as 
Begent,  and,  under  her  rule,  piracy 
grew  to  such  a  height  that  the  English, 
in    1765,    despatched   an   armament, 
which  captured  the  fort  of  Mdlwan, 
and  the  PeshwA  wrested  the  districts 
of  Chikori  and  Manoli  from  Kolh&pdr, 
and  gave  them  to  the    Patwardans. 
This  latter  circumstance  led  to  a  petty 
warfare  with  the  Patwardans,  which 
was  rancorously  carried  on  for  many 
years.    Mdlwan,  however,  was  subse- 
quently restored  by  the  British,  on 
their  receiving   payment  of   382,890 
rupees ;  and  Chikori  and  Manoli  were 
given  back  by  the  Peshwi  in  his  last 
illness.    In  February,  1772,  the  Queen 
Jlj4  B41  died.    She  had  encouraged 
human  sacrifices  to  a  fearful  extent, 
and  parties  scoured  the  plains  at  night 
for  victims  to  be  offered  at  the  Black 
Tower  of  Panh^li,  within  a  few  hun- 
dred yards  of  her  palace.    This  tower 
was  a  temple  to  Durgd,  the  Hindi\ 
Hecate,    in   the   inner   fort,  and  so 
thickly  over-canopied  with  trees,  that 
not  a  ray  of  liglit  could   break  the 
gloom.   Inl773,KunharBAoTrimbak, 
Patwardan  of  Kurandw4r,  overran  the 
country,  laid  siege  to  Kolh4pi!ir,  and 
burned  a  famous  Mat^  or  monastery 
in  the  suburbs,  whence  he  carried  off 
an  immense  treasure.    The  Chief  Priest 
buried  himself  alive  at  ShengdoA,  in- 
voking curses  on  the  sacrilegious  spoiler, 
who  nevertheless  returned  happily  to 
his  own  district.    In  1777  the  chiefe  of 
KAgal,  B4or4,  and  Yishdlgafh,  aided 
by  the  Pun4    troops,   attacked  Kol- 
hdpiir,  but  were  signally  defeated,  as 
was  also  the  Peshw^'s  general,  Jiwajl 
GopAl  Joshl.     In  revenge   for  this, 
Mah4ddjl  Sindhia  was  despatched  from 
Pun4   with    an  overwhelming   force, 
and  ravaged  the  whole  province,  nor 
did  he  withdraw  till  he  had  exacted 
from  the  Bdj&  an  agreement  to  pay 
16,000,000  rupees  for  losses  sustained 
by  the  PeshwA.    In  1777,  Gaidar  'All 
visited  Kolh&ptir,  presented  1,000,000 
rupees,  and  offered  the  support  of  his 
troops.    In  1777  the  Patwardan  Par- 
shurdm  B&mchandra,  of  Miraj,  took 
Akewat,  and  2  years  after  Sher^  and 
in  1780  got  possession  of  the  strong 


264 


Rovie  15. — Gotur  to  Panhdld. 


Sect.  II. 


fort  of    Badargarh.     Katndkar  Paul 
Apd  now  became  prime  minister,  and 
under  his  guidance  the  B^jd  made  a 
Buccessfal  expedition  to  Sdwantwddi, 
and  soon  after  transferred  the  seat  of 
government   from    Panhdld    to  Kol- 
hdpiir.     In  1786    the    BdjA    Shivajl 
again     invaded     S&wantwddi     with 
complete  success.    In  1792  the  Eng- 
lish fitted  out  a  force  at  Bombay  to 
attack  WAdl  and  Kolhdpiir  in  conse- 
quence of  the  piracies  of  those  powers, 
but  an  apology  was  made  by  the  Bdjd, 
and    a  treaty    concluded,  by  which 
permission  was  conceded  for  the  es- 
tablishment   of    British    factories    at 
Mdlwan  and  Kolhdpiir.    In  1793  Par- 
shurdm  Bdmchandra,  who  had    just 
returned  from  aiding  the  British  in 
Maisiir,  invaded  the  Kolhdpiir  territo- 
ries, but  in  1794  his  son  Bdmchandra 
was  defeated  before  the  walls  of  Alte 
by  Shivaji,  and  made  prisoner  with  all 
his  principal  officers.  They  were  treated 
generously  and  released,  but  the  elder 
Parwardan,  unsoftened  by  this  kind- 
ness to  his  son,  immediately  recrossed 
the  frontier,  and  laid  siege  to  Kol- 
hdpiir,  from  which  city  he  exacted 
3,000,000  rupees.  Soon  after  this  NAnd 
Famavls  encouraged  the  Bdjd  of  Kol- 
hdpiir  to  attack  the  Patwardans.    Up- 
on this  Shivajl  called  out  the  whole 
force  of  his  State,  and    by  a  well- 
managed  surprise,  recovered  the  strong 
fort  of  Budargaj-h,  which  had  been  10 
years  in  the  Patwardan's  possession. 
Chikori  and  Manoli  were  recovered 
from  Bhdskar  Bdo  Trimbak,  the  chief 
of  jNlpdnl.     In  October,  1796,  Shivaji 
marched  from  KolhApiir,  and,  after 
plundering  several  towns,  completely 
sacked  Tdsgdnw,  and  burnt  the  palace 
of  the  Patwardan.    In  1798  the  Kol- 
hdpiir  Bdjd  aided  the  Bdjd  of  Sdtdrd 
in  his  attempt  to  recover  his  independ- 
ence, and  received  the  gallant  Chatur 
0ingh,  the   Rdjd's  brother,  when  he 
escaped  from   SdtArA.     This   prince, 
being  pursued  by  the  Peshwd's  troops, 
turned  back  upon  them  with  the  rein- 
forcements he  had  received  from  Kol- 
hdpiir,  and  cut  them  off  almost  to  a 
man,  and  then,  marching  on  Kardd, 
surprised  the  Patwardan's  troops  and 
totally   routed    them.      During    this 


march  an  unsuccessful  attempt  was 
made  to  assassinate   Shivaji,  who  re- 
turned in  triumph  to  Pai^dld:    Soon 
after,  a  detachment  of  the  kolhdpilr 
troops  was  despatched  on  a  foray,  and, 
falling  in  with  a  band  of  400  Thags, 
hanged  or  beheaded  them  all.    After 
this  punishment,  other  hordes  of  that 
fraternity  of  miscreants  avoided  the 
province  of  KolhdpTir.     At  Savaniir 
the  Kolhdpiir  troops  were,   however, 
totally  defeated,  and  driven  back  by 
Dhondu  Pant  Gokle  ;  but,  being  rein- 
forced   by    Shivajl    in    person,  took 
Koniir,  killed  the  Desdi,  and  laid  the 
whole  country  round  under  contribu- 
tion.    In  1799  Ndnd  Famavls,  being 
reconciled  to  Parshurdm  Patwardan, 
directed  him  to  restrain  the  forays  of 
the   Kolhdpiir   Rdjd.     This  led  to  a 
pitched  battle  at  Chikori,  where  Shi- 
vajl,   surrounded   by    a    body-guard 
glittering  in  chain  armour,  appeared 
at  the  head  of  16,000  men,  and  com- 
pletely  defeated    Parshurdm,  killing 
him,  and  putting  his  whole  army  to 
flight.    Rdmchandra,  Parshurdm's  son, 
repaired  to  Pund,  and  obtained  power- 
ful   reinforcements,      among    which 
were  6  battalions  of  Sindhia's  regular 
troops,  under  Major  Brownrigg.   With 
this  army,  in  1799,  he  besieged  Kol- 
hdpiir.     Shivajl  himself  retired  into 
the  fort  of  Panhdld,  but  was  attacked 
on  the  way  and  suffered  heavy  loss. 
On  the  4th  of  Jan.,  1800,  the  enemy's 
batteries   opened  against  Kolhdpiir ; 
and  on  the  12th  of  March,  a  wide 
breach  having  been  made,  the  enemy's 
columns  advanced  to  the  assault,  but 
were  driven  back  with  the    loss  of 
3,000  killed  and  wounded,  including 
several  of  Sindhia's  European  officers,* 
whose  graves  may  still  be  seen  near 
the    ramparts.      The    next    day    the 
enemy  raised  the  siege.    A  peace  of 
some  years  followed,  and  during  the 
campaign  of  1804  the  Kolhdpiir  Rdjd 
observed  a  strict  neutrality  between 
the  English  and  Mardthas.    In  1806, 
Shivaji  besieged    the    fort  of  Wddl, 
whereupon  the  Peshwd  sent  assistance 

*  Jules  Romeu,  n6  1768,  un  citoyen  de  Lan- 

faedoc,  coimnant*  du  battn.   de  Tarm^e  de 
indhia.    Tu^  aux  trenches  de  Koltfptb*,  23>"« 
Mars,  1800,- is  one  of  the  inscriptions. 


Sect.  II. 


Roide  15. — KolhdpUr, 


265 


to  the  Sdwant.    This  led  to  a  war  be- 
tween the  Peshwd  and  Shivaji,  and  in 
1808  the  Peshwd's  general,  the  chief 
of  NlpAni,  totally  defeated  the  Kol- 
hdpiir  army  at  Songdon,  with  the  loss 
of  5,000  men,  and  all  their  cannon, 
colours,  and  elephants.  Shivaji  himself, 
severely  wounded,  with  difficulty  es- 
caped.    A  peace  followed,    and    on 
the  21st  of   June,  1809,  a    princess 
of  Kolhdpiir  was  given  in  marriage  to 
the'Nlpdnl  chief,  who,  suspicious  of 
treachery,  suddenly  decamped  in  the 
night  with  his  bride,  and  two  years 
after  made  a  further  irruption  into 
Kolhdpiir,     and     defeated     Shivajl's 
troops  at  Hewra,   capturing  5  guns 
and  1,200  prisoners.    In  1812,  a  Bri- 
tish force  assembled  at  Pandharpiir, 
and  peace  was  made  between  the  con- 
tending parties,  through  the  interven- 
tion of  Mr.  Elphinstone.    The  fort  of 
.M&lwan  was,  on  that  occasion,  ceded 
to  the    Bombay  Government,  which 
guaranteed  KolhApdr  from  further  ag- 
gression.   The  same  year  the  palace 
and  state  records  were  partly  destroyed 
at  Kolhdpiir,  during  a  tumult,  by  some 
Pathdns.    Shivaji  died  on  the  24th  of 
April,  1812,  after  a  reign  of  53  years. 
He  left  two  sons,  by  different  mothers, 
Shambhu  and  Shdhjl,  better  known  as 
Abd  Sdhib  and  Bdwd   Sdliib.      Abd 
Sdljib  quietly  succeeded.    During  the 
war  with  the  Peshwd,   in    1818,  he 
heartily  espoused  the  British  cause ; 
and,  by  a  new  treaty,   Chikori  and 
Manoll  were  taken  from  the  Nipdnl 
chief,  and  restored  to  Kolhdpiir.     On 
the  2nd  of  July,  1821,  AM  Sahib  was 
murdered    in   his    palace    by  Sdhaji 
Mohit6,  and  Bdwd  §Ahib  succeeded. 
He  was  a  prince  of   a  daring    and 
ferocious    character,    and,    in    1824, 
during  the  disturbances  at  Kittiir,  his 
behaviour   led    to    grave    suspicions. 
Next  year  his  intrigues  had  proceeded 
so  far,  that  the  British  resolved  to 
interfere.      A    force    of    6,000   men 
marched  on    Kolhdpiir.   and  arrived 
there  in  December.     The  Rdjd  had 
assembled  20,000  men  :  but,  as  the 
British  troops  crowned   the  heights 
above  the  city,  his  heart  failed  him, 
and  he  submitted  to  the  terms  offered 
to  him.    In  October,  1826,  he  visited 


the  Governor  of    Bombay  at   Pund. 
He  came  with  a  splendid  body-guard 
of  1,000  horse,  16  elephants,  a  bat- 
talion of  Arabs,  and  1,600  irregular 
infantry.    His  conduct  was  most  ii*- 
ritating  ;  and  at  last,  having  wounded 
a  trooper  in  the  Pun^  horse,  he  made 
a  precipitate   retreat.     Troops  were 
now  put  in  motion  against  him  from 
Belgdon,  and  he  again  tendered   his 
submission ;  but  not  keeping  to  his 
promises,  a  British  force  was,  in  1827, 
for  the  third  time  assembled  at  Kol- 
hdpiir.    The  town,  though  garrisoned 
by  3,000  Arabs,  immediately  suitcii- 
dered,  and,  on  the  23rd  of  October,  a 
new  treaty  was  imposed.     The  Rdjd 
was  compelled  to  reduce  his  troops  to 
400  horse,  and  800  foot ;  to  discharge 
his  Arabs  ;  to  cede  Chikorl  and  Ma- 
noll, and  the  forts  of  Panhdld  and 
Pawangaj-h;  and  to  permit  a  British 
regiment  to  be  quartered  at  Kolhdpiir. 
Bdwd  Sdhib  died  on  the  29th  of  No- 
vember, 1837,  at  Yeoti,  near  Pandhar- 
piir, whither  he  had  gone  on  a  pre- 
tended pilgrimage,  but  really  with  the 
design    of    plundering    some  of   the 
towns  on  the  Kfishnd.    He  left  two 
sons  and  two  daughters.    His  eldest 
son,  Shivaji,  succeeded  him.     A  re- 
gency was  formed  of  the  young  prince's 
mother,  his  aunt,  and  four  ministers, 
but  the  aunt  soon  got  possession  of 
the  whole  power.    As  she  ruled  most 
oppressively,  the  English  Government 
resolved  to  appoint  a  minister,  and,  in 
1843,  nominated  Ddjl  Rrishnah  to  the 
office.    This  officer  conscientiously  en- 
deavoured to  introduce  reforms,  but 
was  resolutely  opposed  by  the  Regent, 
who  encouraged  a  spirit  of  discontent, 
until  a  regular  conspiracy  was  organ- 
ized against  the  British  Government. 
In  July,  the  forts  of  Sdmdngairh  and 
Budargarh  closed  their  gates,and  Lieut  .- 
Col.  Wallace,  of  the  Madras  army,  was 
sent   from  Belgdon,  with  1,200  men, 
4  mortars,  and  2  nine-pounders,  to 
captui-e  them.    He  arrived  before  Sa- 
mdngarh  on  the  19th  of  September, 
and  on  the  24th  carried  the  Peta,  but 
was  obliged  to  turn  the  siege  of  the 
fort  into  a  blockade,  and  to  send  to 
Belgdon  for  battering-guns.      On  the 
22nd  of  September,  the  garrison  of 


266 


Eoute  15. — Gotur  to  Panhd  d. 


Sect.  II. 


Badargarh  ^'sallied  out  on  the  Kolh4- 
piir  troops  sent  against  them,  and  dis- 
persed them  with  loss,  and  this  success 
greatly  encouraged  the  rebels.  Rein- 
forcements of  English  troops  were  now 
ordered  up.  On  the  8th  of  October, 
General  Delamotte  took  command,  and 
on  the  11th,  4  battering-guns  reached 
8am&ngarh.  They  were  immediately 
placed  in  position,  and  by  the  next 
evening  a  breach  was  effected.  The 
Commissioner,  Mr.  Reeves,  allowed 
the  garrison  to  parley,  but  found  they 
were  confident  of  support  from  Kol- 
h^piir,  where  the  troops  had  risen  and 
confined  Diji  Kp^hnah.  Affairs,  there- 
fore, took  their  course,  and  on  the 
morning  of  the  13th  the  place  was 
stormed  and  carried  with  little  oppo- 
sition, and  a  wing  at  the  5th  Madras 
Cavali7  cut  up  a  large  body  of  rebels, 
who  had  assembled  in  the  neighbour- 
hood. 

On  the  day  before  the  storm.  Colonel 
Outram  joined  the  camp  to  act  with 
Mr.  Reeves,  and  was  the  first  man  in 
at  the  assault,  and,  indeed,  for  several 
minutes,  alone  among  the  enemy.  On 
the  place  being  captured,  the  Joint 
Commissioners  offered  an  amnesty  to 
all  who  would  return  to  their  allegi- 
ance. This  proclamation,  however, 
produced  no  effect.  Colonel  Outram 
then,  with  characteristic  energy,  set 
off  for  Kdgal,  taking  with  him  Lieut.- 
Colonel  Wallace  and  500  of  his  bri- 
gade, in  order  that,  by  his  near  proxi- 
mity, he  might  be  the  better  able  to 
support  the  Rdjd  against  his  rebellious 
troops,  and  effect  the  release  of  the 
minister,  DAji  Ep^hnah,  who  was  now 
imprisoned  in  the  fort  of  Pawangajrh. 
On  the  24th  of  October,  after  much 
negotiation,  the  Minister  was  released, 
and  the  young  RAjd  of  Kolh^piir,  with 
his  aunt  and  mother,  and  a  majority 
of  the  chiefs,  left  the  city  and  joined 
the  British  camp.  This  movement 
was  strongly  opposed  by  the  soldiery, 
of  whom  500,  under  B&bdjl  Ahirdkar, 
went  off  to  join  the  malcontents  at 
Budargarh.  On  the  20th  of  October, 
General  Delamotte  moved  from  Sa- 
mangafh  against  Budargarh,  the  gar- 
rison of  which  place  had,  ten  days 
previously,  plundered  the  British  Par- 


ganah  of  Chikori  and  robbed  the  trea- 
sury of  the  principal  station.  On  ar- 
riving at  Budargarh,  General  Dela- 
motte admitted  the  garrison  to  sur- 
render; but,  while  he  was  parleying 
at  one  gate,  B4b&ji  and  his  followers 
escaped  at  the  other,  and  threw  them- 
selves into  the  still  stronger  fortress  of 
PanhAJA.  On  the  17th  of  November, 
Colonel  Ovans,  the  Resident  at  SAtdrA, 
who  had  just  been  appointed  Special 
Commissioner  in  the  S.  Mar&tha  coun- 
try, was  seized  by  the  rebels  while  in- 
cautiously travelling  with  a  very  slight 
escort  from  Sdt^4,  and  carried  prisoner 
into  PanhAld.  The  Joint  Commis- 
sioners exerted  themselves  to  procure 
his  release,  and  succeeded,  but  the  gar- 
rison of  Panh&lA  still  kept  their  gates 
closed,  and  rejected  the  terms  offered 
to  them.  On  the  27th  the  Peta  was 
captured.  On  the  morning  of  the  Ist 
of  December  the  batteries  opened ; 
the  same  afternoon,  the  breach,  being 
reported  practicable,  was  stormed  in 
gallant  style ;  and  a  portion  of  the 
garrison,  endeavouring  to  escape  to  the 
adjoining  fort  of  Pawangarh,  were  so 
closely  followed  by  the  British  troops, 
that  this  second  fortress  also  fell  on 
the  same  day.  B&b&jl  Ahlrekar,  and 
about  70  other  ringleaders  of  the  mal- 
contents, were  killed  in  the  storm  of 
PanhAU,  and  many  prisoners  were 
captured  by  troops  judiciously  posted 
in  the  surrounding  plain.  On  the  5th 
of  December,  Colonel  Wallace,  with  a 
light  force,  proceeded  against  Rdngnd, 
70  m.  distant,  and  reached  it  on  the 
9th.  He  carried  the  Peta  the  same 
day;  and,  having  got  two  guns  and 
two  mortars  into  position  during  the 
night,  kept  up  so  heavy  a  fire  from 
them  next  day  that  the  enemy,  after 
dark,  evacuated  the  fort,  and  fied  into 
the  jungles  of  the  S4wantwddi  coun- 
try. To  this  quarter  many  of  the 
fugitives  from  Vi^Algarh  and  other 
forts  in  the  Kolh&piir  province  betook 
themselves.  Colonel  Outram  was  ap- 
pointed to  the  command  of  a  light 
field  force  for  the  reduction  of  these 
rebels.  The  7th  Regiment  Bombay 
N.I.,  the  left  wing  of  the  2nd  Queen's 
Royals,  a  company  of  H.  M.  17  th  Re- 
giment,  the   3rd   Regiment   Ma4r^ 


Sect.  IL 


S<mte  15. — FanJk^d. 


267 


K.  L,  detachments  of  the  10th,  2l8t, 
and  23rd  Bombay  N.  I.,  and  of  the  8th 
and  16th  Madras  N.  I.,  of  the  5th 
Madras  L.  C,  and  the  Pun&  Horse, 
and  a  few  light  guns,  were  the  troops 
destined  for  the  service,  and  they 
arrived  at  Ylngorleu  about  the  middle 
of  December,  1846.  Their  first  opera- 
tion was  the  reduction  of  the  hill  forts 
called  ManohaVf  "  Mind-ravishing/' 
and  MaTuaiitofhf  **Mind*s  delight," 
situated  on  two  lofty  rocks,  about  a 
mile  from  the  fort  of  the  Gh^ts,  and 
35  m.  from  VingorleA,  E.  by  N.  In  the 
first  march  from  VingorleA,  Colonel 
Outram  had  a  narrow  escape.  Biding 
at  the  head  of  the  column  with  Capt. 
Battye,  of  the  21st  N.  I.,  he  was 
observed  by  a  party  of  rebels  posted 
in  trees,  and  was  known  by  his  blue 
coat  to  be  the  bard  fdhib  or  officer  of 
the  highest  rank.  A  volley  was  fired 
at  him,  but  the  bullets  intended  for 
him  struck  Capt.  Battye's  horse,  which 
fell  dead,  shot  through  in  three  places. 
On  arriving  at  the  forts  it  was  found 
that,  though  close  to  one  another,  there 
was  no  communication  between  them, 
but  that  they  were  separated  by  a  pro- 
found chasm.  It  was  resolved  to  at- 
tack Afanohar,  and  as  it  was  impos- 
sible to  carry  up  heavy  guns  into  that 
difficult  fortress,  the  only  course  was 
to  storm.  The  scarp  was  about  60  ft. 
high,  and  the  only  access  was  by  steps 
cut  in  the  rock.  The  height  of  the 
forts  above  the  plain  was  about  2,600  ft. 
About  noon,  the  company  of  the  17th 
and  some  Sipdhis,  led  by  Lieut.  Mun- 
bee  of  the  Engineers,  advanced  gal- 
lantly up  the  rocky  steps,  but  the  gar- 
rison rolled  down  on  them  heaps  of 
large  stones,  which  swept  away  "several 
of  the  Europeans,  and  struck  the  officer 
leading  them  on  the  head.  Lieut. 
Munbee  was  shot  through  the  hand, 
and  the  storm  failed.  It  was  then 
determined  to  renew  the  attack  at 
night,  but,  under  cover  of  the  dark- 
ness, the  garrison,  who  did  not  amount 
to  more  than  80  or  40  men,  let  them- 
selves down  over  the  wall  with  ropes 
and  escaped.  The  troops  now  moved 
through  the  jungles  in  the  direction  of 
Goa,  clearing  them  of  the  rebels.  They 
found  many  stockades,  and  there  was 


considerable  danger  in  straying  from 
the  column,  but  they  did  not  meet 
with  any  serious  resistance,  and,  after 
a  harassing  campaign  of  tli^e  months, 
the  rebellion  was  completely  put  down. 
The  rebels  were  driven  into  the  terri- 
tories of  Goa,  where  they  received 
shelter.  After  the  lapse  of  some  years 
an  amnesty  was  granted  to  them,  but 
some  desperate  characters  were  ex- 
pressly excluded  from  terms. 

In  January,  1846,  a  British  officer 
was  appointed  Political  Superintend- 
ent of  the  Eolh&piir  State,  a  brigade 
was  stationed  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
town,  and  various  measures  of  reform 
were  introduced  into  the  government 
with  the  happiest  results.  Eolh^ptir, 
however,  was  one  of  the  few  places 
which,  during  the  disastrous  rebellion 
of  1857,  furnished  proofs  that  the 
fidelity  of  even  the  Bombay  army  was 
not  altogether  incorruptible.  On  the 
night  of  the  31st  of  July  a  sudden 
uproar  and  firing  was  heard  in  the 
lines  of  the  27th  Bombay  N.  I.,  sta- 
tioned at  Kolhdpiir.  The  night  was 
dark,  and  heavy  rain  was  falling. 
The  mutineers  at  first  induced  by 
threats  several  sipdhis  who  were  not 
in  the  plot  to  join  them.  They  broke 
open  the  store  guard,  and  carried  off 
spare  arms  and  ammunition.  They 
then  proceeded  to  the  quarter  guard, 
released  some  prisoners,  and  carried 
off  public  treasure  to  the  amount  of 
46,000  rupees.  They  then  plundered 
the  h&z&r  and  the  house  of  the  Jam'a- 
ddr  Adjutant,  whose  mother  they  shot, 
and  but  for  the  firmness  of  the  local 
corps  already  mentioned,  might  have 
caused  very  serious  trouble. 

JHU  forts  of  Panh&]a  and  Pawan- 
gadh. — Before  leaving  KolhApiir, '  the 
traveller  must  pay  a  visit  to  PanhdU, 
which  lies  10  m.  to  the  N.W.  of  the 
capital.  After  about  \  m.  he  will  cross 
the  P4nch  Gangd  river  by  a  ford  where 
the  water  is  about  2  ft.  6  deep  in  the 
dry  weather.  He  will  then  proceed 
about  6  m.  along  the  foot  of  tfotebd's 
hill,  and  will  come  to  the  foot  of 
Pawangadh.  Jotebi's  hiU  is  covered 
by  a  labyrinth  of  sacred  temples 
and  gateways.  None  of  the  present 
temples  are  of  great  age.    The  three 


268 


Boute  15. — Gotur  to  PanMld. 


Sect.  11. 


principal  ones  are  dedicated  to  Shiva, 
and  built  of  fine  blue  basalt.  The 
revenue  amounts  to  Rs.  12,000,  of 
which  Sindhia  pays  Rs.  7500.  In  the 
fiame  hill  are  some  old  rock-cut  cells. 
Paw414  Caves,  near  Jotebd's  hill,  con- 
sist of  one  large  one  34  ft.  sq.  with  14 
pillars  arranged  parallel  to  the  three 
inner  walls,  in  which  have  been  18  or 
19  cells ;  several  on  the  left  are  entirely 
destroyed,  and  outside  to  the  left  is  a 
very  irregular  Chaitya  cave,  31  ft.  deep 
and  16^  wide  in  front,  with  remains  of 
a  dalufopa.  In  the  centre  of  the  hill  is 
a  line  of  trees,  and  here  steps  are  hewn 
in  the  rock  which  lead  to  the  temples, 
the  whole  distance  being  about  4  m., 
for  JotebA  is  about  2600  ft.  above  the 
sea.  On  reaching  the  foot  of  Pawan- 
gadh,  one  can  drive  up  the  hill  for 
about  1  m.,  beyond  which  a  carriage 
cannot  go,  but  a  visitor  may  walk, 
ride,  or  be  taken  in  a  pAlkl.  The 
traveller  will  pass  under  the  scarp  of 
Pawangadh,  a  fort  which  is  about  1500 
yds.  from  the  E.  gate  of  PanhdlA; 
which  is  called  the  Fath  k4  Burj, 
'*  gate  of  victory."  The  whole  length 
of  the  *fort  of  PanhdlA  fi'om  E.  to  W. 
is  about  1500  yds.,  and  it  is  995  ft.  above 
Kolhdpiir,  and  this  again  1997  ft.  above 
the  sea,  so  that  Panhdld  is  2992  ft.  above 
sea  level,  and,  though  not  so  high  as 
MahAbaleshwar,  the  climate  is  cooler, 
for  the  thermometer  does  not  rise  above 
70°.  At  the  Fath  Gate  is  a  temple  to 
Mdruti.  On  the  face  of  the  gateway 
are  written  8  lines  in  Persian,  the 
translation  of  which  is  as  follows  : — 

Gate  of  Victory. 
In  the  name  of  God,  besides  whom  in  no  place 
Ne'er  was  nor  is  any  other  God. 
In  the  reign  of  the  King  of  Kings,  Shdh  'Ali, 
This  powerful  tower  was,  by  the  grace  of  God, 
Founded  and  made  strong  by  Shamsu'd  din, 
"Who  was  his  fortunate  deputy. 
A  bastion  is  a  treasure  in  this  fort. 
Which  dates  from  985  a.h. 

You  then  pass  on  the  left  a  Muham- 
madantomb  of  granite,  which  has  been 
converted  into  a  school.  Then  comes 
a  temple  of  Sambhaji  on  the  same  side 
of  the  road.  There  is  here  a  Sanskrit 
inscription  with  the  date  Shaka  1683. 
It  is  too  long  to  be  here  translated. 
At  some  distance  beyond  this  is  Shi- 
vajl's  Tower,  which  is  used  by  the 


Political  Agent  for  summer  quarters. 
It  faces  the  E.  and  stands  on  the  brink 
of  the  scarp,  which  is  here  very  deep. 
The  lower  room  has  a  balcony,  and 
in  the  W.  wall  is  an  inscription  in 
Persian,  of  which  the  follo>\'ing  is  a 
translation : — 

In  the  reign  of  Ibrahim  'Adil  Shah  of  happy 

memory 
This  delightful  palace  was  built,  at  the  edge 

of  the  platform  of  the  fort, 
*  *  *  In  the  year  1008  a.h.  this  palace 
Was  finished. 
O  God,  protect  this  castle. 

You  ascend  14  +  7+2  +  3  steps  to  a  2nd 
story,  which  looks  over  a  tolerably 
level  piece  of  gi'ound,  where  is  the 
bangl^  of  the  American  Mission  on 
the  right,  and  the  T.  B.  with  3  sets  of 
rooms  on  the  left,  and  near  it  a  ruined 
pavilion.  Ascend  now,  9  +  5+1  steps 
to  the  roof  of  the  tower,  whence  is  a 
fine  and  extensive  view.  You  see  to 
the  right  the  S.  end  of  PanhAld  fort  and 
Pawangadh,  beyond  which  is  Joteb&'s 
Hill  and  the  road  leading  to  Malkapiir. 
The  tower  itself  is  42  ft.  high,  and 
stands  on  a  scarp  of  65  ft.  ;  total, 
107  ft.  It  is  said  that  it  has  been 
struck  by  lightning  2  or  3  times  a 
year  at  the  setting  in  of  the  monsoon, 
but  it  is  so  solid  that  no  harm  has 
been  done.  Long  before  the  time  of 
Shivaji,  and  before  this  tower  was 
built,  a  Hindii  RdjA  resided  here.  A 
copper  plate  found  at  SAt^rd  proves 
that  in  A.D.  1192,  the  Rdj4  of  Panhala 
reigned  over  the  territory  from  the 
Mahddeo  Hills  N.  of  SdtarA  to  the 
Hernkasi  river,  and  claimed  descent 
from  the  RdjAs  of  Tdgara.  The  Kings 
of  BijApiir  then  became  possessed  of 
Panhdld.  Shivaji  got  possession  of  it 
in  1658,  but  it  was  suiTcndered  to  the 
Mughuls  in  1 690.  The  English  stormed 
the  fort  in  1844.  About  \  of  m.  S.W. 
of  the  tower  are  the  stone  granaries, 
which  enabled  Shivaji  to  stand  a  siege 
of  5  months.  They  are  30  ft.  high,  57 
broad,  and  130  long.  At  the  W.  side 
of  the  fort  is  the  Tin  Darwdza  gate, 
which,  as  the  name  implies,  is  a  triple 
gate.  Over  the  W.  part  of  it  is  a 
Persian  inscription,  which  says  that 
the  fort  was  repaired  in  the  reign  of 
Ibrahim  'Adil  ShAh  in  the  year  954  A,h, 


Sect.  11. 


Route  l^.—KolhdpUr  to  Sdtdrd. 


269 


by  Malik  Ddiid '  A^i,  son  of  the  Minister 
A^mad.  There  are  two  shorter  inscrip- 
tions to  the  right  and  left,  of  similar 
purport.  The  gate  is  handsomely 
sculptured.  To  the  right  of  the  gate, 
at  about  40  yds.  distance,  is  the 
place  where  the  English  breached  and 
stormed  the  fort  in  1844.  Any  one 
who  examines  this  spot  will  admire 
the  courage  and  vigour  of  the  soldiers 
who  could  ascend,  under  the  fire  of 
the  enemy,  so  steep  a  place.  About 
parallel  with  this  is  the  old  pavilion, 
which  was  a  Rang  Ma^all  for  the 
Mu^iammadan  ladies;  when  Panhild 
belonged  to  Bljdpiir.  It  is  on  the 
verge  of  the  scarp  and  bulges  over  it. 
It  is  43  ft.  high,  and  is  now  called 
Sadobd's  temple.  Going  S.  from  this, 
to  the  building  which  is  now  a  school, 
18  a  stone  with  a  Persian  inscription, 
which  may  be  translated  thus  : — 

I  have  not  seen  its  like  in  the  world, 

In  the  reign  of  the  King  of  Kings»  of  pure 

faith, 
A  king  like  'Ali,  a  choice  ruler. 

Further  on  is  a  square  domed  build- 
ing, said  to  be  the  tomb  of  Shekh 
S'adu'd  din  KattAl.  Near  the  same 
spot  is  an  old  tank,  and  on  a  stone  in 
the  centre  of  the  S.  wall  of  it,  is  a 
line  the  English  of  which  is  : — 

In  the  time  of  King  'Adil  Mal^miid  Sultin 
Bahmani  ShA, 

May  God  Most  High  perpetuate  his  territory 
and  his  rule  during  the  time  of  the  adminis- 
tration 

Of  'Adil  £h4n,  champion  against  infidels,  may 
the  time  of  his  power  be  prolonged,  and 
by  the  direction  of  Malik  Sikandar  Gaidar 
Bahadur,  may  his  prosperity  be  continued. 

The  building  of  this  reservoir  took  place. 

If  you  ask  the  date  of  the  tank  and  who 
was  its  builder,  then  ask  of  me  in  a  kind 
manner, 

The  date  of  the  tank  of  Fanhil&is  Iskandar 
and  its  builder  Malik. 

The  date  is  917  a.h.  =  1497  a  .d. 

Into  this  tank  scores  of  Br4hmani 
women  threw  themselves  when  our 
soldiers  stormed  the  fort.  On  the 
whole,.  Panhdla  is  one  of  the  most 
interesting  forts  in  W.  India.  From 
it  Shivaji  made  some  of  his  most 
successful  expeditions ;  and  if  we  ad- 
mire the  courage  of  the  British,  who 
stormed  the  fort,  we  cannot  but  equally 
admire  the  hardihood  of  the  Mardtha 


chief,  who  used  to  descend  on  horse- 
back the  dangerous  and  almost  pre- 
cipitous mountain,  before  the  present 
road  and  path  to  the  fort  were  made, 
in  order  to  gallop  with  his  wild  fol- 
lowers to  some  far-off  district  in  pursuit 
of  plunder. 


ROUTE  16. 

KOLHiLPiJB  TO  aATlaX. 

The  stages  on  this  route  are  as  fol- 
lows : — 


Prom 

To 

Miles. 

KolhApiir 

TopKdTappd    . 

6 

Top  KA  TappA . 

KinI       .        .    . 

6 

Kini 

TandulwA4i 

5 

Tandulw44i      . 

Kamheri     . 

6 

Kamheri  . 

Nerla     .        .    . 

6 

Nerla   .        .    . 

Kiishlgdon . 

6 

Kashig4on 

NArAyanwa4f     . 

6 

XAriyai^wa^i   . 

Karad 

6 

Kardd 

Tilura    .       .    . 

7 

Tih'ira       . 

Terl6  . 

6 

Terl6    .       .    . 

Atil        .        .    . 

7 

Atil 

Baradgiou . 

G 

Baradg&ou  .    . 

S&Ura    .       .    . 
Total  .  . 

0 

78 

lu  the  first  stage  the  Panch  Ganga 
river  is  crossed,  and  between  the 
2nd  and  3rd,  the  Varna,  which  is  a 
bad  and  sandy  crossing.  N.  of  it  1  m. 
a  toll  is  paid.  The  road  lies  between 
hills  500  to  800  ft.  high,  with  abun- 
dance   of    cultivation    and    thriving 


270 


Route  16. — Kolhdpur  to  Sdtdrd. 


Sect.  II. 


viUages  in  the  vaUey.  The  T.  B.  at 
Ear&d,  which  is  about  half  way,  is 
bat  an  indifferent  one,  bat  there  are 
many  Ma]|^ammadan  remains  in  the 
town,  which  might  induce  a  traveller 
to  stop.  After  leaving  Ear^,  the 
road  turns  to  the  right,  over  the  very 
deep  bed  of  the  Koini  river,  which 
here  falls  into  the  Efi^hnd,  coming 
from  the  W.  The  bed  of  the  river  is 
crossed  by  a  fine  bridge,  at  least  70  ft. 
above  it.  Terl6  is  just  beyond  the 
river  of  the  same  name,  and  is  broad 
and  "very  sandy.  2  miles  beyond 
Terl6  is  Umarj,  a  large  village  where 
horses  are  sometimes  changed,  but 
there  is  no  T.  B. 

Satdrd. — The  road  from  Eolhdpi!ir 
bends  a  little  to  the  right,  just  before 
entering  the  cantonment  of  S&t&rd, 
and  after  passing  on  the  right  a  tank 
much  used  by  washermen,  crosses 
the  road  to  M^huli,  and  800  yds. 
beyond  it,  turns  to  the  left,  and 
goes  for  f  m.  to  the  N.W.  to  the 
T.  B.  The  road  from  Pun4  enters 
the  cantonment  from  the  N.W. 
The  cantonment  is  about  1}  m.  from 
N.  to  S.  and  nearly  the  same  from  £. 
to  W.  In  the  centre  of  the  S.  side  is 
the  old  Eesidency  compound,  but  the 
collector,  who  is  now  the  chief  civil 
authority,  lives  at  the  N.  end  of  the 
cantonment.  The  lines  for  the  Euro- 
pean soldiers  are  in  the  centre  of  the 
E.  side,  and  the  native  lines  and  §adr 
bdzar  to  the  N.  of  them.  The  church 
is  700  yds.  to  the  W.  of  the  native 
lines.  It  is  named  St.  Thomas,  and  was 
opened  in  1850.  It  is  63  ft.  from  E. 
to  W.  and  16  ft.  from  N.tto  S.  At  the  E. 
end  is  a  handsome  stained  glass  win- 
dow, and  here  also  is  a  carved  screen 
of  teak.  The  Gothic  roof  is  of  teak, 
and  the  pulpit  of  polished  grey  stone. 
The  old  colours  of  the  6th  N.  L  are 
crossed  over  the  W.  entrance.  A 
Bench  mark  of  the  G.  Trig.  Survey  is 
on  the  door-step  ,  and  another  just 
opposite  between  the  pillars  of  the 
verandah,  with  these  words,  "  136  ft. 
above  YenA  bridge,'*  which  was  built 
by  the  Bdjd,  and  is  2  m.  from  S4t&rd. 
In  the  road,  before  coming  to  the 
church,  is  a  large  tree  with  a  stone 
bench    round    it,    ascended    to    by 


6  steps,  with  the  following  inscrip- 
tion : — 

This  Testimonial, 

in 

CoiHunetion  with  Charitable  Institations, 

Has  been  erected  in  the  year  1855 

By  subscriptions  of  the 

Jagirdira  and  others, 

As  a  respectftil  tribute  of  gratitude 

'  To  the  memoir  of  his  late 

Highness  BuAHjf  (Bhabjee)  RAjA, 

ofSdtArd, 

and  of 

H.  B.  E.  Frere,  Esq.. 

The  late  British  Commissioner 

ofSat&ri. 

On  the  left  is  the  same  in  Mar&thl. 
In  this  direction,  too,  is  the  old  ceme- 
tery, a  little  off  to  the  right  of  the 
road  going  to  the  fort.  The  enclosure 
in  which  it  is,  is  kept  locked,  and  no 
further  interments  take  place.  The 
oldest  tomb  here  is  to  Major  Bromley, 
who  died  July  16th,  1822.  The  new 
cemetery  is  half  a  mile  to  the  N.E.  of 
the  European  barracks,  and  is  planted 
with  flowers  and  cypresses  and  other 
fine  trees.  It  is  most  creditably  kept. 
There  is  a  remarkable  tomb  here,  with 
a  white  marble  cross,  to  the  wife  of 
Thomas  H.  Leach,  who  died  August, 
1870,  and  to  her  husband,  who  died 
Jan.  3l8t,  1876,  who  was  out  with  the 
police  after  a  criminal,  and  was  shot  by 
one  of  his  own  policemen,  as  it  was  al- 
leged, by  accident.  At  the  S.E.  comer 
is  the  grave,unmarked  by  a  stone,  of  the 
wife  of  a  sub-judge,  shot  by  her  hus- 
band by  accident.  Proceeding  from 
the  old  cemetery  along  the  road  which 
leads  W.  to  the  fort,  the  traveUer  will 
pass  first  though  a  very  neat  hiz&r  for 
about  half  a  mile.  He  will  leave  ^e 
Jdm'i  Kasjid  on  the  left,  and  then 
come  to  the  new  palace  built  by  Ap4 
§&^ib,  which  is  near  the  centre  of  me 
city,  and  adjoins  the  old  palace.  On 
the  facade  of  the  new  palace  are  a 
number  of  mythological  pictures, 
much  de&ced  l^  the  weather.  The 
first  door  opens  into  a  court  104  ft. 
from  B.  to  W.  and  79  from  K.  to  S. 
On  the  W.  side  is  a  gallery,  the  inner 
side  of  which  is  supported  by  14  teak 
pillars,  well  carved.  On  the  £.  side  are 
only  3  pillars.  On  the  N.  side  of  the 
court  is  a  vast  hall,  one  of  the  largest 
in  India,  being  164  ft.  from  N.to  S.  and 


Sect.  IL 


RcnUe  16. — Sdtdrd, 


271 


484  fro™  -E-  to  W.,  and  30  ft.  high. 
In  the  front  court  are  the  offices  of 
the  collector  and  his  assistants,  and  W. 
of  the  hall  are  those  of  the  judge. 
The  hall  was  a  place  of  prayer  in  the 
time  of  ApA  §Aliib.    The  roof  is  sup- 
ported by  64  teak  pillars,  besides  4  in 
front.    The  old  palace  is  very  shabby, 
and  quite  deserted.    Such  is  now  the 
state  of  a  palace  whose  prince  claimed 
to  rule  as  far  as  the  Atak.     About 
200  yds.  beyond  this,  to  the  B.  by  N., 
is  a  pretty  garden  and  villa  belonging 
to  EAjA  KAm,  who  was  adopted  by  the 
late    B4nl.      He  is  a  Bhonsl^  from 
NAgpiir,  but  not  connected  with  the 
late  reigning  family  of  that  country. 
This  prince  is  about  6  ft.  7  in.  high,  and 
stout,  with  a  pleasing  face  and  bright 
eyes.    He  is  in  possession  of  Jay  Bha- 
wdnl,  the  feunous  sword  of  Shivajl,  and 
of  the  crown  jewelsof  the  Sdtdrdfamily, 
and  would  no  doubt  show  them  if  ap- 
plication be  made  to  his  E^b&rf,  or 
'*  man  of  business."    The  sword  is  3  ft. 
9  in.  long  in  the  blade,  and  the  handle 
is   8  in.   long,  but   so  small  that  a 
European   can  hardly  get  his  hand 
into  it.    On  the  blade  is  the  stamp 
Genoa,  and  written  in  Balbod  charac- 
ters, "  SarkAr  BAjA  ShAhu  Chhatrpati 
Kadim    Awal,"  His  Highness  BAjA 
ShAhu  Supreme  Lord,  the  First.    The 
WAghnahk,  or  tiger's  claw,',with  which 
Shivajl  wounded  Af^al  Eh  An,  consists 
of  4  steel  claws,  with  a  ring  which 
passes  over  the  first  and  fourth  finger, 
and  is  too  small  for  a  European  hand. 
The  shield  is  of  rhinoceros  hide,  and  has 
4  stars  or  bosses  of  diamonds.  The  gold 
casket  for  holding  the  seal  is  orna- 
mented with  diamonds,  rubies,  pearls, 
and  emeralds,  and  there  is  an  inkstand 
and  penholder  of  gold   similarly  be- 
gemmed.     The    quilted   coat  which 
Khivaji  wore  when  he  murdered  Afij^al 
KhAn,  may  also  be  seen.    It  is  lined 
with  chain  armour,  which  is  hidden 
by  thick  masses  of  padding  and  silk, 
embroidered  with  gold.     It  is  very 
heavy,   and  as  Shivajl  also  wore    a 
steel  helmet,  it  is  surprising  that  the 
suspicions  of  the  BljAptir  general  were 
not  roused.    The  dagger  is  very  hand- 
some, and  is  18  inches  long,  of  which 
the  steel  blade  is  10  inches  and  the 


jewelled  handle  8.  The  diamonds, 
emeralds,  and  rubies  in  the  handle 
are  very  fine.  The  city  has  many  his- 
toric recollections,  and  the  station  is 
one  of  the  most  salubrious  and  plea- 
sant in  the  Bakhan,  being  close  to  the 
foot  of  the  MahAbaleshwar  hills.  SA- 
tArA  is  situated  in  a  hollow  between 
two  ranges  of  hills,  which  rise  above  it 
on  the  E.  and  W.,  and  partly  overlap 
it  on  the  S.  The  hill  on  the  W.  is  the 
termination  of  a  spur  from  the  MahA- 
baleshwar hills.  It  is  called  Utesh- 
war,  and  there  are  some  temples  on 
the  top,  with  a  colony  of  BrAh- 
mans  and  the  largest  monkeys  to  be 
seen  in  th^se  parts.  From  this  hill 
to  the  city  there  is  an  aqueduct  4  m, 
long,  and  there  are  also  two  fine  tanks. 

The  Fort— The  gate  of  the  Fort  is 
on  the  E.  side,  and  a  very  steep  zig- 
zag path  leads  up  to  it.  The  traveller 
may  ride  up  or  be  carried  in  a 
chair,  supported  on  bambiis,  by  8 
bearers.  The  ascent  lies  at  first  along 
the  foot  of  a  ridge,  on  which  the  RAjA 
had  a  house,  where  he  slept  in  hot 
weather.  It  is  now  ruined,  and  the 
woodwork  has  been  carried  away. 
After  half  a  mile  or  so,  the  ridge  is 
crossed,  and  the  path  proceeds  along 
the  brink  of  a  precipice  which  is  to 
the  right,  the  fort  being  to  the  left. 
Looking  up  at  the  scarp,  one  is  as- 
tonished to  hear  that  several  of  our 
soldiers  have  been  killed  in  attempting 
to  descend  it  to  buy  liquor.  It  looks 
80  utterly  impracticable.  The  gate  on 
the  B.  side  is  of  stone,  and  very 
strongly  built,  with  buttresses  40  ft. 
high.  The  interior  of  the  Fort  is  now 
quite  desolate.  There  are  only  a  few 
wretched  ruinous  buildings,  with  1 
small  Pagoda  and  a  brick  barrack 
for  6  soldiers.  The  old  (palace  in 
which  the  Besident  used  to  have  his 
summer  quarters  has  been  swept 
away. 

The  Fort  is  said  to  have  been  built 
by  a  BAjA  of  PanhA}A,  who,  as  testified 
by  a  copper  plate  found  at  SAtArA,* 
reigned  in  A.D.  1192.  By  him,  too, 
were  erected  the  forts  of  BairAtga^h 

*  Grant  Buff,  vol.      p.  28.     Transactions 
I  of  Bombay  Lit.  Society,  'ol.  iii. 


272 


Route  16. — Kolhdpur  to  Sdtdrd. 


Sect.  11. 


and  Pdiidugarh,  near  Wal,  and  Chan- 
dan  and  Wandan,  near  Sdtdra.    Long 
before  the  time  of  the  'ildil  Shdhi 
dynasty  at  Bijapiir,  the  fort  of  Sdtdrd  * 
was  used  as  a  state  prison,  and  Shivaji, 
who  captured  it  in  1673,  after  a  siege 
of  several  months,   unwittingly  fur- 
nished for  his  descendants  a  prison  in 
which  they  were  for  years  confined. 
In  1698,  at  the  suggestion  of  Bdm- 
chandra  Pant,  Sdtdrd  was  made  the 
capital  of  the  Mardtha  Government. 
Next  year  Aurangzlb,  with  a  great 
army,  arrived  before  the  city.    His 
own  tents  were  pitched  on  the  N.  side 
of  the  fort;  on  the  site  of  the  present 
village  of  Karanjd.    'iJsjlm  Shdh  was 
stationed  at  a  village  on  the  W.  side, 
which  has  since  retained  the  name  of 
Shdhpilr,    or    "the     Shdh's    Town." 
Shirzi  Khdn  invested  the  S.  and  Tar- 
blyat  Khdn  occupied  the  E.  quarter. 
Chains  of  posts  between  the  diflEerent 
camps  effectually  secured  the  blockade. 
The  fort  occupies  the  summit  of  a  hill, 
which  is  about  800  ft.  high,  and  ex- 
tends 1100  yds.  in  length  and  500  in 
breadth.    The    sides  are  very  steep, 
and  even  the  ascent  from  the  city  by 
a  somewhat  winding  path  on  the  W. 
is  difficult.    The  defences  consist  of  a 
scarp  of  upwards  of  40  ft.  in  perpen- 
dicular  black    rock,  on    the  top  of 
which  is  a  stone  wall.      It  was  de- 
fended against  Auraiigzib  by  Tiydgji 
Prabhii,     l^awdlddr,    who   had    been 
reared  in  the  service  of  Shivaji.      As 
soon  as  the  Mughuls  began  to  gain 
any  part  of  the  hill  he  withdrew  his 
troops  into  the  fort,  and  rolled  down 
huge    stones   from   the   rock    above, 
which  did  great  execution,  and,  until 
cover  could  be  thrown  up,   were  as 
destructive  as  artillery.    The  blockade, 
however,  was  complete,  no  communi- 
cation could  be  held  with  the  country, 
and  as  the  small  stock  of  grain  in  the 
garrison  was  soon  exhausted,  the  be- 
sieged must  have  been   compelled  to 
surrender;   but  Parshurdm  Trimbak, 
who  had  thrown  himself  into  the  fort 
of  Prall,  pui-chased  the  connivance  of 
'>A!j{im  Shdh,  and  conveyed  stores  to 
the  besieged.    The  Mughul  troops  on 

*  Grant  Duff,  vol.  i.,  p.  260. 


the  W.  and  S.  faces  erected  batteries  ; 
but  the  grand  attack  was  directed 
against  the  N.E.  angle,  which  stands 
up  like  a  tower,  and  is  one  of  the 
strongest  points,  the  rock  being  42  ft. 
high,  and  the  bastion  on  the  top  con- 
sisting of  25  ft.  of  masonry,  making  a 
total  height  of  67  ft.  Tarblyat  Khdn 
undertook  to  mine  this  angle,  and  at 
the  end  of  4}  months  had  completed 
two  mines  So  confident  were  the 
Mughuls  of  success,  that  the  storming 
party  was  formed  under  the  brow  of 
the  hill.  Aurangzlb  moved  out  in 
grand  procession  to  view  the  attack, 
and  the  garrison,  and  among  them 
Prydgji,  attracted  by  the  splendour  of 
his  retinue,  crowded  to  the  rampart. 
The  first  mine  burst  several  fissures 
in  the  rock,  aud  so  violent  was  the 
concussion,  that  a  great  part  of  the 
masonry  was  thrown  inwards,  and 
crushed  many  of  the  garrison  to  death. 
The  storming  party  advanced  with 
eagerness,  and  at  that  time  the  second 
and  larger  mine  burst  outwards  with 
a  terrible  explosion,  and  destroyed  up- 
wards of  2000  Mughuls.  Prydgji  was 
buried  by  the  first  explosion  close  to 
a  temple  to  Bhavdnl,  but  was  dug  out 
alive.  This  was  regarded  by  the  Ma- 
rdthas  as  a  happy  omen,  and,  ani- 
mated by  it,  the  garrison  would  have 
made  a  prolonged  and  desperate  de- 
fence, but  provisions  fell  short,  and 
'A^im  Shdh  would  no  longer  connive 
at  their  introduction.  Proposals  of 
surrender  were,  therefore,  made 
through  him,  and  the  honour  of  the 
capture,  which  he  so  ill-merited,  was 
not  only  assigned  to  him,  but  the  very 
name  of  the  place,  in  compliment  to 
him,  was  changed  by  the  Emperor  to 
'As{im  Tdrd. 

In  1705  the  fort  was  retaken  by 
the  Mardthas,  through  the  artifice  of  a 
Brdhman  named  Anajl  Pant.  He  in- 
gratiated himself  with  the  Mughuls 
under  the  character  of  a  mendicant 
devotee,  amusing  them  with  stories 
and  songs,  and,  being  allowed  to 
reside  in  the  fort,  introduced  a  body 
of  Mdwalls,  and  put  every  man  of  the 
garrison  to  the  sword.  To  this  place 
on  the  surrender  of  Trichindpalli  (Tri- 
chiaopoly)  on  the  26th  of  March,  1741, 


Sect  II. 


Route   1 6.  —  Sdtdrd — Mdliuli, 


273 


Chanda  S4\]db,  the  well-known  as- 
pirant to  the  Niiw&bshlp  of  the  Ear- 
n^tak,  was  brought  a  prisoner,  and 
remained  under  surveillance  7  years. 
In  1798  Kdm  Bdjd,  son  of  Shivajl  IL, 
got  jwssession  of  the  fort,  and  col- 
lected troops  with  a  view  of  regaining 
his  independence  from  the  Peshw^ 
BAjl  RAo ;  but  his  forces  were  sur- 
prised by  Parshurdm  Bh4o,  and 
driven  out  of  the  town  in  spite  of  the 
heroism  of  Yelojl  Mohit6  and  Lenaji 
Mohit4,  who  charged  singly  into  a 
host  of  enemies  and  were  killed, 
After  the  rupture  with  BAjl  Rdo,  the 
English  troops  marched  to  Sdtdrd, 
which  surrendered,  after  little  or  no 
resistance,  on  the  10th  of  February, 
1818,  and  Pratdp  Sing,  eldest  son  of 
Sdhu  XL,  was  installed  as  Bdjd.  He 
held  the  principality  21  years,  and 
was  sent  prisoner  to  Bandras  in  1839, 
being  succeeded  by  his  brother,  Apd 
Sdhib,  on  whose  death,  in  1848,  the 
territory  was  annexed. 

There  were  here  16  temples,  of 
which  11  were  to  Shiva  and  5  to 
Bhavdnl,  the  especial  patroness  of 
Shivaji  and  his  family.  All  but  one 
have  perished.  Panthers  are  occa- 
sionally seen,  from  the  walls  of  the 
fort,  basking  on  the  rocks,  a  few  score 
feet  below  the  ramparts.  The  view 
from  the  fort  is  very  beautiful,  over 
hills  rising  in  every  direction  of  varied 
form,  and  some  of  them  crowned  with 
old  forts  now  crumbling  to  decay. 
Such  are  the  hills  of  Chandan  and 
Wandan  on  the  W.,  and  the  lofty  hill 
of  AmboH,  which,  according  to  Hindii 
legend,  was  a  pebble  that  slipped 
from  a  mountain  which  Hanumdn 
was  carrying  to  help  in  making  a 
bridge  from  Lidia  to  Lankd,  in  Ramd's 
war  with  Rdvan.  A  wide  plain  ex- 
tends to  the  S.,  opening  out  from  the 
town  and  comprehending  the  canton- 
meja't  on  the  B.,  the  Residency  with 
its  fine  garden  on  the  W.,  and  beyond, 
many  gardens  and  groves.  Through 
this  plain  runs  a  broad  excellent  road, 
shaded  by  an  avpnue  of  trees  to  the 
Sangam,  or  junction  of  the  rivers 
Krishnd  and  Yend  at  the  beautiful 
village  of  Mdhull. 

There  are  many  beautiful  rides  at 

[jB<wi6ay— 1880.] 


Sdtdrd,  and  good  sport  to  be  had. 
QuaU  and  florican  are  plentiful  in  the 
neighbouring  villages,  and  foxes  are 
very  numerous.  These  are  coursed 
with  greyhounds,  and  afford  excellent 
sport.  Bears,  panthers,  and  chitas 
may  occasionally  be  found.  In  1836 
a  large  bear  came  down  to  plunder 
the  Residency  garden,  and  sUpped 
into  the  big  wedl  there.  When  the 
gardener  went  to  draw  water  he  be- 
held the  animal  swimming  round  and 
round,  there  being  no  possibility  of 
its  escape,  and  it  was  many  hours  be- 
fore it  sank.  A  mango  tree  in  this 
garden  is  worth  a  visit,  being  a  very 
fine  specimen,  and  nearly  30  ft.  in 
circuniference.  At  a  village  a  few 
miles  off  is  a  still  larger  tree  of  the 
same  species,  and  nearly  40  ft.  round. 
Those  who  take  an  interest  in  old  tra- 
ditions will  find  Sdtdrd  a  good  place 
for  inquiry  into  such  legends.  There 
is  one,  and  most  probably  founded  on 
fact,  that  when  the  fort  was  erected 
the  son  and  daughter  of  the  chief 
Mahdr  in  the  place  were  buried  alive 
at  the  principal  entrance,  which,  as 
already  noticed,  is  on  the  E.,  and 
may  be  known  by  two  large  fish,  the 
ensigns  of  nobility,  sculptured  upon 
it.  These  living  sacrifices  are  part  of 
the  aboriginal  worship  of  the  country, 
and  the  legend  tends  to  show  that  the 
Mahdrs  are  no  other  than  the  abo- 
rigines, as,  indeed,  is  believed  on 
many  other  accounts.  During  the 
Dasahrd  the  Mahdrs  of  Sdtdrd  sacri- 
fice a  male  buffalo  at  the  temple  of 
Bhavdnl,  which  stands  at  the  N.E. 
angle  of  the  fort  where  the  mine,  so 
fatal  to  theIMu|jhul  troops,  was  sprung. 
The  animal  is  buffeted,  wounded, 
and  driven  furiously  about,  in  the 
very  way  in  which  the  Tudas  beat 
the  buffaloes  they  sacrifice  at  their 
funeral  rites.  In  this,  then,  there  is 
an  undoubted  relic  of  most  ancient 
aboriginal  worship. 

MalmlL — This  pretty  place,  at  the 
confluence  of  the  Kp^hnd  and  Yend 
rivers,  is  about  3  m.  E.  of  Sdtdrd,  and 
thoroughly  deserves  a  visit.  It  is  con- 
sidered a  place  of  great  sanctity,  and 
the  dead  from  Sdtdrd  and  the  sur- 
rounding villages  are  brought  there  to 


274 


Eoute  16. — KoIIidpur  to  Sdtdrd, 


Sect.  II. 


be  bumed ;  and  here  accordicgly  the 
Envoy  of  the  Rdnd  of  Udepiir,  who 
came  to  Pratdp  Singh  in  1836  and  died 
on  his  arrival,  was  burned.    On  the  E. 
bank  of  the  Kri^hn^  is  Kfhetra  Mdhuliy 
on  the  W.  bank  WmH  Mdhuli,  which 
belongs  to  the  Paiit  Pratinidhi.*    De- 
scending the  river,  the  first  temple  is 
K^hetra  M&hull,  dedicated  to  Bddh^ 
Shankar.     It  was  built  in  1825  A.D. 
by  B4i  §&hib  Sachlv,  the  great-grand- 
mother of  the  present  Bor-Pant.    It 
stands  on  the  Giri  Ghdt,  a  long  hand- 
some stone  platform,  built  by  B&pu 
Bl^at  in  1780  A.D.    The  temple  is  of 
basalt,  and  consists  of  a  shrine  and 
verandah,  supported  by  3  small  scal- 
loped arches;  the  dome  is  of  brick, 
and  conical,  but  broken  up  into  gra- 
dually diminishing  rows  of  stucco  or- 
namentation, in  which  are  niches  filled 
with  images.    On  the  same  side  of  the 
river  is  the  temple  of  Bholeshwar  Ma- 
hAdeo,  built  in  1742  A.D.  by  Shrlpat 
BAo  PaAt  Pratinidhi.    It  consists  of  a 
vestibule  and  shrine.    The  vestibule  is 
square,  and  has  no  opening  but  a  low 
door.     The  front  is  30  ft.  long,  and 
plain.    The  sides  gradually  contract 
by  a  series  of  offsets,  which  run  up 
nearly  to  the  top  of  the  dome,  so  that 
the  back  wall  is  only  5  or  6  ft.  long. 
In  front  are  a  few  tombs  of  holy  men. 
The  GhAt  was  built  4  years  before  the 
temple,  by  ^nand  RAo  Bhiv  Rdo  Desh- 
muMi  Angaparkar.    The  next  temple 
is  on  the  same  bank,  dedicated  to  Rd- 
meshwar,  and  was  built  by  Parshurdm 
NArdyana  Angal  of  Dehgdon,  in  1700 
A.D.       Looking    from    the    opposite 
bank,  one  is  struck  with  the  veiy  fine 
flight  of  steps  leading  up  to  it  from 
the  river-bed.      One  flight,  with  its 
broad  platform,  was  conmienced  by 
Bdjl  Rdo  11.,  but  never  finished  ;  the 
other  flight  begins  very  nearly  where 
the  other  leaves  off,  and  is  said  to  be 
the  work  of  Parshurdm  Angal.    Half- 
way up  it  is  a  small  cloister  of  arches 
on  either  side.  The  roof  is  domed,  and 
formed  by  concentric  layers  of  stone, 
each  diminishing  in  circumference.  In 
front  is  a  bull  very  richly  ornamented 

*  This  nobleman  was  the  locum  tenens  of  the 
Kajd,and  was  entitled  to  2  umbrellas  of  state, 
and  the  hust  or  figure  of  Maiuti  and  of  Ganid. 


with  chains  and  beUs,  with  his  face 
towards   the   door  of   the  vestibule. 
There  are  3  domes,  the  lowest  being 
over  the  vestibule.   A  small  door  leads 
into  a  shrine,  with  o  small  figures  in 
black  basalt,  8hiva  and  Pdrvati  being 
in  the  centre.    Close  to  the  junction  of 
the  rivers,  on  the  W.  bank  of   the 
Blri^hnd  and  the  N.  of  the  Yena,  is  the 
temple  of    Sangameshwar   Mahddeo. 
Two  flights  of  steps  lead  up  to  the 
courtyard  wall  from  the  bank  of  the 
Kri^hnd.    A  door  in  the  wall  opens 
into  a  quadrangular  court,  in  which  is 
the  temple.    The  temple  consists  of  a 
small  open  verandah,  in  which  is  a 
painting  of  Lak§hml,  of  a  vestibule 
and  shmie.   In  front  is  the  sacred  bull 
under  a  canopy,  supported  by  4  pillars. 
The  breadth  at  the  back  is  gradually 
diminished  by  offsets.    The  architec- 
ture is  pure  Hindti.    The  pillars  are 
round,  octagonal  or  square,  in  alter- 
nate courses,  and  the  roof  is  formed  of 
long  stones,  which  stretch  diagonally 
from  pillar  to  pillar,  so  as  to  form  a 
series  of  lozenge-shaped  spaces  filled 
in  square  stones.   The  flying  buttresses 
to  the  platform  of  the  sacred  bull  and 
the  top  of  the  dome  deserve  notice. 
As  usual  the  body  of  the  building  is 
of  basalt,  and  the  dome  of  brick  and 
stucco.    This   temple    was   built    by 
Shrlpat  Rdo  Pant  Pratinidhi  in  1679 
A.D.     Below  this  temple  and  at  the 
junction  of  the  rivers  is  a  triangular 
plot  of  ground,  with  the  tombs  of  the 
Gosain  named    Banshapuri,  and   his 
disciples.     That  of  the  Gosain  is  an 
octagonal  building  of  grey  basalt,  sur- 
mounted by  a  low  dome.    The  sides 
are  open,  and  the  triangular  heads  of 
the  openings  are  scalloped  and  richly 
carved  above ;  a  broad  ledge  is  carried 
round,  supported  on  elegant  scrolls. 
There  are  4  other  tombs.    The  largest 
of  the  temples  is  on  the  S.  side  of  the 
Yend,  and  at  its  confluence  with  the 
Kp^hnd.     It  is  sacred  to  Vishveshvar 
Mahddeo,  and  was  built  in  1735  A.D. 
by  Shrlpat  Rdo.    It  is  of  basalt,  and 
inclosed  by  an  irregular-shaped  court- 
yard open  on  the  side  of  the  river, 
from  which  it  is  approached  by  steps. 
The   high    platform  on  which  it    is 
raised ;  the  low  colonnade  which  runs 


Sect.  II. 


Haute  17. — Sdtdrd  to  Mahdhaleshwar. 


275 


ronnd  the  greater  part  of  it ;  the  short, 
thick  pillars  in  alternate  courses  of 
round,   octagonal,    and    square;    the 
lozenge-figurod  stone  roof,  the  breadth 
increasing  from  the  front  by  ofE-sets 
and  then  similarly  decreasing  behind, 
E^ow  that  it  is  a  building  of  pure 
Hindii  architecture.     The  length  &om 
back  to  front  is  60  ft.    The  greatest 
breadth  is  20  ft.,  and  the  least  5  ft. 
The  interior  consists  of  a  vestibule  and 
shrine.    In  the  wall  of  the  vestibule 
are  images  of  Ganpatl  and  Lak^hml, 
the  latter  of  marble.  The  animal  forms 
carved  in  the  capitals  of  the  pillars 
and  the  cornices  deserve  notice.    On 
2  sides  of  the  courtyard  are  cloisters 
with  broad,  low  pointed  arches.    On 
another  side  is  a  similar  building,  un- 
finished.   At  the  entrance  of  the  ves- 
tibule is  a  fine  bell,  with  the  date  1744 
in  English  figures.      The  temple  of 
Bdmchandra  K4o  at  the  back  of  the 
above  is  very  inferior.    It  consists  of 
a  verandah  and  shrine.    In  the  latter 
are  figures  in  brass  of  K4van,  Laksh- 
man,  and  Sitd.    This  temple  was  built 
by  Trimbak  VishvanAth  P6t6,  in  1772. 
Besides  the  above  temples  there  is  one 
to  Withobd,  built  by  J6t6pant  Bhagwat 
of  Chinchnera,  in  1730  A.D.;  one  to 
Kri^ndbdi,  built  by  Krishna  Dikshit 
Chiplunkar  in  1754  ;  one  built  by  the 
same  man  in  1790  to .  Krishneshvara 
Mah&deo ;  and  one  to  Bhairava,  built 
by  Krishna  Bhat  Talke  in  1770.  There 
are  several  others  of  less  note.    In  one 
observe  a  dog  sitting,  which  marks  the 
burial  place  of  a  favorite  dog  of  RAjd 
Shdhu,    called    VedarAjA,    or    *'  Mad 
King.'*    It  was  a  black   greyhound, 
and  saved  the  Bdjd's  life  by  its  furious 
barking,  which  called  the  prince's  at- 
tention to  a  tiger  which  was  in  the  act 
of  springing  on  him.  (See  Grant  Duff, 
vol.  ii.  p.  30.)    The  BdjA  dressed  out 
the  dog  in  gold  brocade  covered  with 
jewels,  and  put  his  own  turban  on  his 
head  when  he  was  about  to  receive  2 
Mardtha  chiefs  in. full  court.    He  also 
kept  a  palanquin  establishment  for  the 
dog.    Mdhull  is  the  scandal  point  of 
the    station.     There  are    also   some 
tombs  here  to  widows  who  performed 
mti.     The    last  mti    took  place  on 
August  12lli,  lt36,    LutfuUah  in  his 


"Autobiography,"  p.  221,  refers  to 
one.  There  are  many  foxes  at 
SdtdrA,  which,  if  coursed,  afford  good 
sport. 


KOUTE   17. 

SATAEA  TO  MAHABALKSHWAE. 

The  stages  by  this  route  are — 


From 

To 

Miles. 

Sat^r4       . 
Khinzir        .    . 
Me<}a 

Kilgarh        .    . 
Irmal        • 

Khinzir      .       . 
Me4a      .        .    . 
Kilgarh      .       . 
Irmal     .       .    . 
Fountain  Hotel, 
MahdbalftBhwar 

Total    .    . 

9 
4 
6 

7 
5 

31 

After  leaving  Sdtdrd  the  Yend  river  is 
crossed,  close  to  the  village  of  Ankle, 
by  a  bridge  of  9  arches.  Just  here,  at 
the  village  of  Kuner,  there  is  a  toll  of 
4  dnds.  There  is  a  comfortable  T.  B. 
at  Meda,  where  the  traveller  may  break 
his  journey.  After  leaving  Meda  the 
road  is  very  heavy  and  dusty,  and  full 
of  ups  and  downs,  but  well  shaded 
with  fine  trees.  There  are  lofty  hills 
on  the  left,  being  the  range  of  which 
Uteshwar  is  the  termination .  The  1 5th 
milestone  is  passed  very  soon  after 
leaving  Meda,  and  the  21st  is  at  200 
yds.  beyond  Kilgarh.  At  this  village 
a  horde  of  Kulis  rush  out  to  join  the 
traveller ;  and  just  before  reaching  the 
21st  milestone  from  Sdtdrd,  the  horses 
are  taken  out  and  the  Tonga  is  drawn 
by  the  KuUs.  It  generally  happens 
that  a  tremendous  hubbub  o£  voices 
then  springs  up,  and  a  furious  wrang  - 

T  2 


Route  18. — Somlat/  to  Ndthii. 


ling  takes  place  between  the  KuliE  and 
their  Mu^addam  or  "headman,"  who 
triea  to  cheat  them  ont  of  their  money. 
The  traveller  will  be  fortauate  if  be 

Kta  ofi  without  a  delaj  of  h^f  an 
nr.  When  they  do  st^t  they  go  at 
a  great  rate,  pulling  the  Tongfa  up  a 
■teep  incline  tor  7  m.  There  is  a  pre- 
cipice on  the  right  which  rises  nom 
10  to  1000  ft.  The  road  is  hroad 
enough  for  2  Tongas  to  pass  one 
another ;  but  in  eome  places  the  edge 
will  have  given  way,  and  the  newly 
thrown  up  earth  at  these  places  ia  not 
at  all  trustworthy.  The  Knlls  from 
time  to  time  encourage  themselvee 
wiOi  yella,  which  show  the  astonish- 
ing power  of  their  lungs,  and  they  then 
make  surprising  apurts  for  short  dis- 
tances. The  sMent  of  the  Kilgafh 
Gbk%  is  ended  half  an  hour  befuw 
reaching  Irmal,  where  is  the  28tb 
milestone,  and  which  commands  a  flue 
view.  The  Kulls  will  expect  12  iaia 
aa  a  preaent,'and  but  for  their  noiae 
they  well  deserve  it. 

For  ft  full  deacription  of  Mahi- 
bale^war,eee  Route  C.  If  the  traveller 

Eroceed  thither  from  Vaai.  and  return 
J  Ibb  Route  he  cannot  fail  to  see  the 
most  picturesque  portiona  of  the  hills. 
But  to  eihanst  all  there  ii  to  be  seen 
would  require  a  residence  of  weeks 
and  demand  the  energy  of  a  Bportaman 
and  a  practdaed  pedestrian. 


ave  time  the  stations 
rision  o(  tiie  G.  I.  P. 
re  given,  onoa  for  alt, 
Jabalpdr. 


1 

1 

1 

d^ 
dS 

1 

i.ti 
a.i9 

S.  1 
IL  9 

12!  c 

3  12  1 

la  0  1 
isisi 

iii 

IK  IB 
2»    *0 

1  10  0 

s  so 
4ia« 

6  140 
12  10  0 

ScnUe  18. — Bombay  to  Nddtik. 


277 

allowed  in  it  is,  in  the  fail  season, 
11  Tehicles  and  4  incline  brakes  foi 
1  large  engine;  16  TehinleB  and  4 
incline  Iv^ea  for  3  large  engines. 
The  line  risea  from  the  Botanda 
NSlah,  wMch  it  ctobscb  by  a  via- 
dnct  6C  yds.  long  and  90  ft.  high. 
It  tlien  pasaea  tnrougli  a  rock  by 
a  tnniiel  130  yds.  long  to  Mtuida 
Set  NSlali,  which  it  croases  by  a  via- 
duct 143  yds.  long  and  84  ft.  high,  and 
another  G6  yds.  long  and  87  ft.  high. 
Close  to  the  Manda  Set  torrent  aie 
two  tunnels  1490  yda.  long  and  80 
yds.  Then  comes,  at  3^  m.,  KAs4ri, 
where,  by  double  track  at  an  acnte 
angle,  called  a  rcTcrsing  station,  a 
shiup  curve  is  avoided,  the  direction 
of  the  line  altered,  and  the  railway 
taken  throngh  a  low  pasa  at  the  Mas- 
solah  Khind  to  the  N.  flank  ot  the 
great  spur  on  the  Waitum  side  of  the 
hill  Beyond  K4sdr4,  at  the  1th  m., 
are  3  tunnels,  236,  113,  and  123  yds. 
long  respectively,  and  a  viaduet  66 
yds.  long  and  MO  ft.  high.  Between 
the  Blh  and  6th  m.  is  a  viaduct  over 
the  EhglkoA  N&lah  260  yds.  long  and 
200  ft.  high,  and  4  tunnels,  490,  412, 
70,  and  50  yds.  long.  Between  the  7th 
and  9th  m.  there  is  a  viaduct  150  yds. 
long  and  80  ft.  high.  There  are  3  tun- 
nels, 261,140,  and  68  yds.  long.  There 
are  besideB  16  bridges  and  62  culverts. 
The  total  cutting  amonnts  to  1,241,000 
CBbio  yards.  The  embankment  i  ■ 
1,215,000  cubic  yds.  The  steepest  gra- 
dient is  i,  in.  for  4  m.  29  chs.,  and  ^  in. 
forl3chs.;andfortherestlinE0or  1 
in  18.  Ibe  Handa  Set  tunnel  was  made 
through  the  hardest  basalt  with  steel 
drills,  and  2  shafts  had  to  be  sank. 
All  the  viaducts  are  of  masonry,  ex- 
cept that  over  the  Bhg^il  N&lah, 
which  is  crossed  by  3  spans  of  tri- 
angular iron  girders,  on  Warren's 
principle,  with  semicircular  arches  of 
40  ft.  at  each  end.  These  large  girders 
had  to  be  raised  200  ft.  The  Tal  GhAt 
was  opened  for  traffic  in  18fi5.  From 
Igatpilra  to  NAahik  was  opened  on 
Jan.  22nd,  1861.  The  viaduct  over 
the  OodAvari  ia  145  yds.  long,  and 
consists  ot  9  arches  of  10  ft.  each. 
The  fonndations  are  on  the  rock.  The 
river,  daring  floods,  is  36  ft.  deep.  The 


278 


Route  18. — Bombay  to  Ndsliik, 


Sect.  II. 


line  fiom  Manmdd  to  Jalgdoii,  99^  m., 
is  through  a  rich  cotton  country,  and 
has  4  bridges  over  streams  flowing  into 
the  Gima  river.  They  have  30  ft. 
openings.  The  Manm^  river  is  40 
yds.  wide ;  the  Tetiir  90  yds. ;  the  Bola 
90 ;  the  Eoranda  40.  Near  JsJgiou 
and  Na^lrdbdd  the  Wangib*  stream  is 
crossed,  a  tributary  of  the  Taptl  river. 
The  Wangiir  is  300  yds.  wide,  and  it  is 
crossed  by  a  bridge  with  10  openings, 
spanned  by  iron  girders  on  Warren's 
principle.  The  NAgpi\r  branch  line, 
which  turns  off  from  Bhosdwal,  is  214 
m.  long.  It  is  guided  by  the  course 
of  the  Fund,  a  tributary  of  the  Tapti, 
along  a  valley  to  Amrawati.  At  this 
pHQint  the  country  is  hilly,  and  tiie 
rivers  Mand  and  Wardah  are  crossed. 
Between  Bhos&wal  and  Amr&wati 
there  is  a  viaduct  over  the  Mand,  with 
15  openings  of  60  ft.  each,  and  piers 
70  ft.  high ;  and  a  bridge  over  the 
K&tl  Kanrah  with  21  iron  girders  of 
30  ft.  each,  and  piers  37  ft.  high.  The 
Wardah  is  crossed  by  a  viaduct  of  12 
openings  of  60  ft.  each.  There  are 
viaducts  over  the  Hara  and  Wara  rivers 
between  Akola  and  Ndgpiir  with  8  and 
6  spans  of  60  ft.  each.  On  the  Ndg- 
pdr  branch  there  are  351  bridges  and 
viaducts,  with  950  spans.  From  Bho- 
sdwal  to  Khandwa  is  77  m. ;  here  the 
Tapti,  591  yds.  wide,  is  crossed.  The 
river  is  subject  to  sudden  floods,  when 
it  reaches  a  depth  of  78  ft.  It  is 
spanned  by  a  viaduot  875  yds.  long, 
with  5  openings  of  138  ft.  and  14  of 
60  ft.,  covered  by  iron  girders,  and  20 
arches  of  40  ft.  each.  Near  Burhdnpi!ir 
there  are  3  small  bridges  over  affluents 
of  the  Tapti.  At  3  m.  from  Burhdnpiir 
the  line  reaches  the  S&tpurah  range, 
and  ascends  for  12  m.  The  top  of  the 
ascent  is  at  Aslr,  23  m.  from  Burhdn- 
piir.  There  is  a  bridge  over  the  Pan- 
ddv,  an  affluent  of  the  Taptl,  550  yds. 
broad.  From  Khandwd  to  Suhdgpiir 
is  143  m.  Some  miles  beyond  Chdr- 
wah  the  line  enters  the  valley  of  the 
Nirbadd,  and  is  traced  along  its  left 
bank  for  200  m.,  nearly  to  Jabalpiir. 
The  country  is  flat,  with  heavy  bridge 
works.  The  Ganjal  river  is  crossed  by 
a  viaduct  of  8  iron  girders  of  84  ft. 
each,  on  masonry  abutments  of  from 


40  to  61  ft.  high.  In  floods  the  Ganjal 
river  rises  to  40  ft.  Some  miles  farther 
the  Towah  river,  an  affluent  of  the 
Nirbadd  river,  is  crossed.  In  the  hot 
season  it  is  nearly  dry,  but  in  floods 
1276  yds.  wide.  There  is  a  large  bridge 
and  2  viaducts,  with  7  openings  of  30 
ft.  each,  and  4  viaducts  with  5  open- 
ings of  30  ft.  each,  and  61  other  open- 
ings, making  in  all  95  openings  of  30 
ft.  each.  About  the  centre  of  this  dis- 
trict are  the  iron  mines  of  Fandsa, 
where  iron  ore,  limestone,  and  coal 
are  found  together.  At  many  points 
on  this  line,  especially  to  the  N.  of  the 
Nirbadd,  iron  and  coal  exist.  From 
Suh^piir  to  Jabalpiir  is  119  m.  The 
Dudhi,  a  tributary  of  the  Nirbadd,  is 
crossed  by  a  viaduct  170  yds.  long ; 
the  Sakar  with  one  of  the  same  length, 
and  tiie  8her  with  one  213  yds.  long. 
The  highest  flood  on  record  above  the 
bed  of  the  Sher  was  60  ft.  The  Une 
turns  N.,  and  crosses  the  Nirbadd  at 
Jhdnsi  The  total  width  of  the  river 
is  414  yds.,  with  high  and  steep  banks. 
In  dry  weather  the  river  is  70  yds. 
wide  and  5  ft.  deep ;  in  floods  414  yds. 
wide  and  74  to  90  ft.  deep.  There  is 
a  viaduct  over  the  Nirbadd  387  yds. 
long  and  100  ft.  high.  Beyond  this 
point  the  line  passes  over  a  flat  coun- 
try to  Jabalpiir,  614J  m.  from  Bombay, 
where  there  is  the  junction  with  the 
East  India  Bailway. 

The  ascent  of  the  Tal  Ghdt  is  at  all 
seasons  interesting ;  but  during  the 
rains  it  is  most  beautiful.  The  leaves 
are  then  bright  green,  and  the  country 
below  the  Ghdts  is  all  streams,  pools, 
and  inundations ;  the  Ghdts  themselves 
all  cascades  and  torrents.  Igatpiira, 
properly  Wigatpiira,  "  the  town  of  dif- 
ficulties," so  called  on  account  of  the 
precipitous  road  that  preceded  the 
railway,  is  not  a  bad  place  for  a  sports- 
man to  halt  at.  There  are  several 
European  banglds  belonging  to  rail- 
way officials,  and  some  places  near 
very  sacred  in  the  eyes  of  the 
Hindiis,  such  as  Sarva  Tirth,  where 
Jatoyu,  the  bird  who  fought  with  Rd- 
vana,  was  killed.  There  are  panthers 
in  the  vicinity  of  Igatpiira.  From 
that  place  to  Deoldli  the  line  passes 
through    a    level  country,  with  low 


Sect.  II. 


Route  18. — Xdshih. 


279 


mountains  on  either  side,  at  about  5  m. 
distance.  At  Deolali  are  barracks  for 
6000  men.  When  the  trooping  season 
is  over,  the  girls  from  a  large  school  at 
Bykallah  are  sent  to  Deol^. 

Ndshik  is  the  capital  of  a  collecto- 
rate,  containing  a  pop.  of  734,386.  The 
town  itself  contains  22,436  inhabitants. 
The  station  to  alight  at  for  it  is  Ndshik 
Road,  and  the  town  is  quite  4  m.  as  the 
crow  flies  to  the  N.W.  of  the  railway. 
The  peculiarity  of  the  N^hik  houses  is 
that  the  foundation  and  base,  up  to  5 
or  6  ft.  above  the  street,  are  of  granite, 
while  the  superstructure  is  of  wood  or 
brick.  Some  of  the  houses  are  hand- 
some. The  Niiwdb  of  N^shik,  whose 
ancestor  was  the  Plr  or  "spiritual 
guide "  of  Aurangzlb,  has  a  house  in 
Ndshik,  but  is  employed  in  Birdr  under 
the  supreme  government.  In  Aurang- 
zlb's  time  the  family  had  a  very  large 
estate,  of  which  we  have  confiscated 
all  but  a  small  portion.  This  is  the 
only  Muhammadan  family  of  import- 
ance, but  Br&hmans  are  very  numerous, 
and  their  women  are  remarkable  for 
their  beauty,  their  large  eyes,  and 
graceful  figures.  The  town  is  one  of 
the  most  sacred  to  the  Hindiis;  and 
here  it  is  said  that  Lak^hman,  the 
elder  brother  of  R&ma,  cut  off  the  nose 
of  Sarpnakha,  R&van's  sister  ;  and  as 
JVdsika  in  Sanskrit  is  "a  nose,"  the 
place  hence  got  its  name.  The  real 
cause  of  the  sanctity  of  Ndshik,  how- 
ever, is  owing  to  its  being  only  18  m. 
from  the  source  of  the  Goddvarl  at 
Trimbak,  and  from  its  being  built  on 
that  fine  stream.  The  first  thing  to  be 
done  after  locating  oneself  at  theT.  B., 
which  is  i  m.  S.W.  of  the  town,  is  to 
visit  the  temples.  The  traveller  will 
cross  the  river  to  the  W.  of  the  Sundar 
Nariyan  temple.  This  is  a  most  beau- 
tiful temple,  built  by  one  of  Holkars 
Sarddrs  155  years  ago.  It  is  smaller 
than  that  of  the  Black  Kdma,  but  a 
miracle  of  art.  Below  it  may  be  seen 
the  temples  of  B^Uji  and  of  the  White 
R&ma,  and  the  Memorial  erected  to 
the  BlapurtiiAla  RijA,  who  died  in  1870 
near  Aden,  on  his  way  to  Europe.  The 
river  is  80  yds.  broad,  and  near  the  N. 
bank  3  ft.  9  deep  in  the  dry  weather. 
After  reaching  the  other  bank,  he  will 


drive  ^  m.  to  the  W.  past  a  very  fine, 
solidly  built  house  belonging  to  the 
R^tia  family.  One  must  alight  then 
and  walk  a  few  hundred  yards  up  a  lane 
to  5  very  old  and  large  trees  of  the 
Ficvs  indwa  species,  from  which  this 
side  of  N&shik  is  called  Panchdwatif 
Panch  being  "  five  "  and  Wat  "  Indian 
fig."  Thisquarter  has  4000  inhabitants. 
Under  the  shade  of  the  largest  tree 
is  a  small  building.  None  but  Hindtis 
may  pass  the  vesti  oule  ;  but  when  that 
is  done  a  low  room  is  entered,  at  the 
S.  end  of  which  is  an  arch  3  ft.  high, 
which  must  be  crept  under,  and  then 
9  steps  of  6  inches  each  are  descended 
in  order  to  reach  2  rooms  5  ft.  sq.  and 
4  ft.  high.  In  the  first  room  are  images 
of  R&ma,  Sitd,  and  Lak^hman.  In  the 
second  is  an  image  of  Mah4deo,  6  in. 
high,  which  those  three  personages  are 
said  to  have  worshipped ;  hence  arises 
the  extreme  sanctity  of  the  place, 
which  is  quite  one  of  the  holiest  in 
Ndshik.  This  hole  is  Site's  Guph4  or 
Cave,  where  she  found  an  asylum  until 
lured  away  by  Rdvana  and  carried  to 
Ceylon.  Among  other  matters  not  easy 
of  explanation  is  how  persons  of  the 
heroic  size  got  into  this  hole  and  lived 
there,  when  it  is  so  small  that  ordi- 
nary men  are  almost  suffocated  in  it. 
The  traveller  will  then  walk  down  to 
the  river,  past  a  large  house  on  the 
right  belonging  to  R^ia,  which  he 
lets  at  a  cheap  rate  to  poor  people, 
and  a  small  temple  built  by  him  to 
Pdtdleshwar,  "Lord  of  the  Infernal 
Regions,"  a  name  of  Shiva.  Just  be- 
fore reaching  the  riverside,  on  the 
left,  is  the  oldest  temple  in  the  place, 
to  KapAleshwar,  "  God  of  the  Skull," 
a  name  of  Shiva.  The  ascent  to  it  is 
by  50  stone  steps.  It  is  said  to  be  600 
years  old,  and  is  the  most  holy  and 
frequented  of  all  the  temples,  but  is 
quite  plain  and  unattractive.  Opposite 
to  it  the  river  foams  and  rushes  in  a 
rocky  bed  surrounded  hjXunds,  which 
are  stone  terraces  made  in  the  river, 
or  at  its  side,  for  bathers  and  washers 
to  stand  on.  The  nearest  on  the  Pdnch- 
awatl  side  is  called  Rama's  Kund, 
and  there  the  god  is  said  to  have 
bathed ;  hence  it  is  very  sacred,  and 
bones  of  the  dead  are  taken  there  to 


280 


Houte  18. — Bombay  to  NdshVc, 


Sect.  11. 


be  washed  away.  Opposite  to  it  and 
in  the  riTer  itself  is  a  stone  dharm- 
8^4,  with  seyeral  arches,  roofed  oyer, 
in  which  ascetics  lodge  when  the  water 
is  low.  A  little  lower  down  the  stream 
is  another  low  bnilding  for  bathers, 
and  Sondar  N4r&yan's  temple  is  oppo- 
site to  it.  Down  the  stream,  about 
20  yds.,  are  3  temples  erected  by  Ahalya 
BAi.  The  first  is  only  a  few  feet  high 
and  long,  but  the  next  is  a  large  square 
building,  with  a  stone  foundation  and 
brick  superstructure,  dedicated  to  RA- 
ma.  N.  of  it  is  a  long  dharms41A,  and 
a  little  down  the  stream  is  the  third 
temple,  very  handsome,  all  of  stone, 
and  built  in  the  approved  form.  About 
20()  ft.  down  the  stream  is  N&ru  Shan- 
kar's  temple,  with  an  elaborately 
carved  portico  and  a  large  stone  in- 
closure.  This  ends  the  temples  imme- 
diately on  the  water  on  the  PAncha- 
wati  side.  Proceed  then  a  J  m.  by 
a  back  way  through  streets  of  well-built 
houses  to  the  great  temple  of  Bdma, 
which  cost  £70,000.  It  stands  in  an 
oblong  stone  inclosure,  with  96  arches, 
there  being  15  arches  on  the  £.  and  W. 
sides,  33  on  the  N.,  and  33  on  the  S. 
side.  These  arches  are  each  8  ft.  wide, 
so  the  inclosure  is  260  ft.  long  and  120 
ft.  broad.  The  inclosure  is  a  corridor 
25  ft.  high  and  11  ft.  broad,  where 
people  can  lodge.  But  there  is  a 
covered  dharms&Id  in  the  inclbsuiHe, 
with  9  arches  on  the  N.  side,  9  on  the 
S.,  3  on  the  E.,  and  3  on  the  W.  The 
temple  is  93  ft.  long  from  E.  to  W., 
and  65  ft.  broad  from  N.  to  S.  It  is 
60  ft.  high,  and  has  a  copper  ornament 
at  the  top  4  ft.  high.  It  is  dedicated 
to  K&la  KAma,  or  "  Black  R&ma,*'  and 
is  built  of  stone  from  R&msej,  a  neigh- 
bouring mountain.  It  is  100  years 
old,  and  was  erected  at  the  cost  of  a 
chief  called  Bang  Bdo  Odhekar.  This 
fane  consists  of  a  flying  portico,  a 
middle  building  with  a  dome  at  top, 
and  a  cone-shaped  adytum,  with 
a  fluting  of  pillars,  which  end  in  a 
broad  buttress.  It  is  possible  to  cross 
from  the  P4nchawatl  side  to  the  main 
town  on  a  stone  dyke  which  crosses 
the  river ;  but  the  water,  though  not  a 
foot  deep,  that  passes  over  it,  flows 
with  such  rapidity  that  one   might 


easily  be  swept  off.  It  is  therefore 
safer  to  go  down  ^  m.  to  the  ferry, 
which  is  farther  down  the  stream,  and 
consists  of  a  double  boat  with  planks 
in  the  centre  moved  by  ropes  and  pul- 
leys fastened  to  a  wire  cable  stretched 
from  shore  to  shore  at  a  height  of  40 
ft.  Beyond  the  ferry,  to  the  W.,  is  a 
hill  called  Sunar  *Ali,  which  is  200  ft. 
high,  and  has  on  it  a  good  house  built 
by  an  Indian  called  Raghuji.  The  view 
from  this  hill  over  the  river,  temples, 
and  part  of  the  city,  is  very  fine ;  but 
the  walk  to  it  is  anything  but  pleasant, 
on  account  of  the  filth  and  stench. 
There  is  another  hill  close  by,  called 
JiinAgarh,  or  Old  Fort,  on  which  is  a 
square  building,  in  which  Aurangzlb's 
chief  oflicials  used  to  reside.  The  view 
along  the  river  when  hundreds  of  men 
and  women  are  bathing  is  extremely 
pretty.  The  next  expedition  should  be 
to  the  LenA  Caves,  which  are  in  a  hill 
about  6  m.  S.  of  N^hik.  To  the  W. 
is  another  hill,  steeper,  but  not  quite 
so  high.  Ascending  the  first  hill  by  a 
narrow  path  to  the  height  of  about  450 
ft.,  you  come  to  a  broad  black  line  in 
the  N.  face  of  the  hill,  which  extends 
about  ^  m.  in  length,  which  marks  the 
excavations.  In  the  centre  is  a  cave, 
just  opposite  the  spot  where  the  path 
ends.  This  cave  has  a  corridor  5  ft. 
4  in.  in  front,  and  the  room  beyond  it 
is  37  ft.  7  in.  from  N.  to  S.,  and  29  ft. 
9  in.  from  E.  to  W.  It  is  10  ft.  high, 
with  a  perfectly  fiat  roof,  and  has  been 
hewn  but  of  the  solid  rock.  Round  the 
room  are  18  cells,  each  6  ft.  sq.,  with 
a  recess,  hewn  so  as  to  make  a  couch 
for  the  inmate.  In  the  centre  of  the 
room  is  a  figure  of  Bhairu  with  a  mace, 
on  which  he  leans  with  his  left  hand. 
On  either  side  of  him  is  a  female  figure. 
That  on  the  right  is  represented  Winc- 
ing, and  is  fairly  well  carved.  The 
corridor  in  front  of  the  cave  has  4  pil- 
lars and  2  pilasters  in  the  faQade.  The 
E.  pilaster  has  a  single  lion  on  its 
capital,  and  one  of  the  pillars  has  2 
lions,  with  a  human  figure  looking  over 
each.  The  other  pillars  and  1  pUaster 
have  2  elephants  for  capitals.  On  the 
inside  face  of  the  corridor,  and  on  one 
side,  is  a  long  inscription  in  old  De- 
vandgari  characters.    To  the  W.  is  a 


Sect.  11. 


Route  \^,-'Ndshih 


281 


small  cave  with  2  pillars  with  ele- 
phants on  their  capitals,  the  heads 
turned  away  from  each  other,  and  a 
cell.  Then  comes  a  ruined  cell  with 
a  written  tablet  broken,  and  then  2 
pools  of  water,  each  10  ft.  long.  Next 
is  a  fine  cave  with  6  pillars,  of  which 
2  are  broken,  and  the  heads  and  busts 
of  6  giants  supporting  the  basement  of 
the  corridor.  Inside  the  gallery,  on 
the  left  of  the  entrance,  are  2  long  in- 
scriptions. The  door  has  a  figure  about 
4  ft.  high  on  either  side,  which  the 
guides  call  a  Gopl,  and  all  round  the 
door  are  small  figures  much  defaced. 
Then  there  is  a  large  room,  nearly  the 
same  size  as  that  in  the  first  cave,  with 
18  cells  surrounding  it.  At  the  end  is 
a  Dahgopa  with  figures  on  the  sides,  a 
carved  belt  half  way  up,  and  a  double 
ornament  at  top.  Proceeding  to  the 
W.  you  come  to  a  low  cave  with 
12  figures.  On  the  left  is  Vishwakarma, 
seated,  with  female  figures  on  either 
side,  and  opposite  are  Vishwakarma's 
brother  and  father.  To  the  W.  in  a  line 
with  them  is  a  figure  3  ft.  6  high,  called 
by  the  guides  Gautama.  Then  there 
is  a  large  excavation,  about  20  ft.  long, 
called  Sitd's  tank,  which  is  carried 
under  the  rock.  There  are  4  pillars  in 
front,  2  of  them  broken.  Above  is  a 
frieze  6  inches  broad,  with  figures  of 
horses,  bulls,  deer,  and  elephants. 
Beyond  is  a  tank.  To  the  E.  is  a  cave 
with  7  pillars  and  a  Dahgopa,  which 
the  guides  say  is  Bhlm's  mace.  Beside 
it  is  a  room,  ascended  to  by  6  steps. 
It  has  7  cells  round  it,  and  at  the  N. 
end  a  defaced  figure  of  Pdrvatl.  Fur- 
ther E.  is  the  large  cave  of  the  5  PAn- 
dus,  which  gives  its  name  to  the  hill, 
it  is  40  ft.  deep  from  N.  to  S.,  and  27 
ft.  bi-oad  from  E.  to  W.  There  are  22 
cells  round  it.  The  adytum  is  at  the 
8.  end,  and  consists  of  a  gallery  and 
vestibule  about  9  ft.  broad,  with  a  deep 
gloomy  recess  in  the  centre.  On  the 
right  of  the  spectator  as  he  enters  is 
BMm,  7  ft.  high,  with  Draupadi  on  his 
right,  2  ft.  9  in.  high.  On  the  left  is 
Arjun,  about  5  ft.  8  in.  high,  and 
Krishna,  much  smaller,  seated  by  him. 
In  the  recess  is  a  seated  figure  of 
Dharraa  RAjd,  8  ft.  high,  as  he  sits 
with   Sahadcva   and    Nakula    on  his 


right  ;  Tudhishthir  has  bands  of  gild- 
ing on  his  arms  and  legs.  There  is  a 
wall  3  ft.  high  in  front  of  the  recess, 
which  is  BO  dark  that  you  can  see 
nothing  without  a  torch.  The  figures 
are  badly  executed,  and  appear  to  be 
of  much  later  date  than  the  cave. 
There  are  several  other  smaller  cells, 
one  of  which  has  an  image  of  Kdma, 
and  another  is  ascended  to  by  a  ladder 
of  15  steps.  There  is  also  an  upper 
room,  mounted  to  by  6  steps  Over  the 
cave  in  which  is  the  Dahgopa.  These 
caves  were  first  described  by  Colonel 
James  Delamaine,*  who  is  called  by 
Flitter,  vol.  iv.  1st  Div.  p.  682,  their 
discoverer.  He  visited  them  in  May, 
1823.  The  first  thing  to  be  remarked 
regarding  them  is  the  rudeness  of  the 
execution,  which  is  thought  by  Bitter, 
Bird,  and  others  to  be  an  indication 
of  their  great  antiquity.  They  are 
situated  in  a  conical  hill  rather  more 
than  100  yds.  from  its  base,  and  face 
N.E.  In  a  small  recess  f  near  the  ex- 
treme excavations  on  the  right,  says  Dr. 
Bird,  which  are  intended  for  tanks,  are 
3  figures  of  Buddha,  of  the  same  char- 
acter as  those  in  the  Vishwakarma  cave 
at  Eliira.  The  entrance  to  the  next  cave 
is  by  a  verandah,  raised  on  six  colossi 
in  relief,  and  each  })earing  on  his 
shoulder  a  beam.  This  cave  is  about 
45  ft.  sq.,  and  its  fiat  roof  is  entirely 
unsupported.  Small  cells  are  exca- 
vated on  both  sides  at  the  further  end, 
where  a  dahgop  projects  from  the 
wall.  Next  to  this  cave  is  another  of 
similar  dimensions  and  form.  The 
next  is  also  similar,  but  has  a  raised 
platform  at  the  further  end,  in  the 
centre  of  which  is  a  lingam.  The  next 
cave  in  the  series  has  a  vaulted  roof 
with  pillars  on  either  side,  the  dahgop 
at  the  end,  and  a  large  arched  window 
in  the  front  face.  It  is  45  ft.  long  by 
25  ft.  broad.  The  outside  is  orna- 
mented with  small  dahgops  cut  in  re- 
lief. A  fiat-roofed  excavation  of  60  ft. 
by  40  ft.  follows,  with  cells  to  the  right 
and  left.  At  the  further  end  is  a  ve- 
randah, the  pillars  of  which  have  their 
capitals     ornamented    with    various 

*  "  Asiatic  Journal,"  N.  S.,  1830,  vol.  iii. 
pp.  275-288. 
t  Bird's  "  Caves  of  W.  India,"  p.  11. 


282 


Route  18. — Bombay  to  NdsMk, 


Sect.  II. 


animals.  Beyond  this  is  a  recess  with 
a  colossal  figure  of  Buddh.  There  are 
also  two  other  figures  holding  up  in' 
their  right  hands  the  mAlA^  or  neck- 
lace, an<l  in  their  left  a  flower  and 
stem.  The  principal  idol  is  called 
Dharma  Rdja,  a  name  of  Yudhi^hthir, 
the  eldest  Pdudu,  who  is  much  wor- 
shipped in  these  parts,  and  to  whom 
there  is  a  temple  at  Penth  be- 
tween Ndshik  and  Fund.  In  front 
of  this  range  of  caves  is  a  good  plat- 
form, at  the  left  end  of  which  are 
stairs  or  rather  notches  in  the  rock, 
which  lead  to  the  Sntdr'^s  or  Carpenter's 
Cave.  Here  is  a  recumbent  Buddha, 
near  a  group  of  smaller  figures.  Se- 
veral inscriptions  in  a  large  character, 
rudely  executed,  are  on  the  pillars  and 
other  parts  of  the  excavation. 

The  following  description  is  ex- 
tracted from  the  '*  Journal  of  the 
Bombay  Asiatic  Society  "  for  January, 
1850,  vol.  iii.  p.  65,  and  is  from  the 
pen  of  the  late  Dr.  John  Wilson,  Pre- 
sident of  the  above  Society.  It  adds 
to  what  has  been  given  above  some 
particulars  of  importance  : — "NAshik* 
is  an  important  place  in  the  Hindii 
traditions,  particularly  those  connected 
with  the  i)rogrcss  of  RAma,  and  there 
can  be  little  doubt  of  its  antiquity,  as 
it  is  mentioned  by  the  name  which  it 
now  bears  in  Ptolemy's  '  Geography.'! 
The  principal  excavations  of  the  place 
are  situated  on  a  hill,  named  from 
them  Pandu  Lend,  about  5  miles  to  the 
S.S.W.  of  the  town,  and  overhanging 
the  Bombay  road.  When  we  first  had 
an  opportunity  of  seeing  them — on  the 
loth  of  March,  1831 — we  wrote  thus 
respecting  them : — '  They  are  decidedly 
Buddhist,  and  are  very  extensive. 
They  scarcely  fall  short  in  interest, 
taking  them  as  a  whole,  of  those  of 
Elephanta  and  Edrll.  The  view  from 
them  in  the  direction  of  the  E.  and 
S.E.  extends  for  many  miles,  and  com- 
mands the  range  of  some  very  sublime 
mountains  of  the  trap  or  basaltic  for- 
mation. The  figures  in  the  caves  are 
in  a  state  of  good  preservation.  They 
are  those  of  Buddha.    The  principal 

*  NasMk  is  the  Mara^lia  form,  and  is  there- 
fore used  in  this  book, 
t  Ptolemy's  *'  Geography,"  lib.  vii. 


ones  have  been  newly  painted  and 
oiled,  preparatory  to  an  approaching 
Jdtrd.  There  is  nothing  Brdhmanical 
about  them ;  but  as  there  are  no  Budd- 
hists in  this  part  of  India  to  come  near 
them,  the  Brihmans.  for  the  sake  of. 
their  own  gain,  encourage  the  J4tr&. 
When  we  next  visited  them — on  the 
5th  of  June,  1840 — we  were  particu- 
larly struck,  without  altering  alto- 
gether our  opinion  of  their  Buddhist 
origin,  with  the  comparatively  modem 
character  of  their  architectural  forms, 
which,  though  of  inferior  execution 
and  less  ornate,  resemble  those  which 
have  been  called  the  Indrasabhd  group 
at  Elilira.  They  awakened  witlmi  us 
a  sort  of  mysterious  feeling,  which  we 
have  only  got  solved  to  a  certain  ex- 
tent by  the  following  notice  of  the 
Indrasabhd  group  in  Mr.  Fergusson's 
interesting  paper : — *  The  sculptures  to 
this  group  have  hitherto  proved  a 
stumbling-block  to  antiquaries,  and 
no  fixed  opinion  seems  to  have  been 
arrived  at  regarding  them.  Buddhist 
they  certainly  are  not,  or  at  all  events 
of  so  degenerate  a  type  as  scarce  to 
deserve  that  name.  Nor  are  they 
Br4hmanical ;  and  though  they  cer- 
tainly resemble  Jaina  sculpture  more 
than  any  other,  I  do  not  think  they 
can  be  correctly  ascribed  to  that  sect 
either,  at  least  as  we  know  it.  In  no 
place  in  these  caves  do  the  24  Tirthan' 
hirs  appear,  nor  have  the  cross-legged 
figures  the  symbols  which  almost  in- 
variably accompany  these  worthies, 
and  are  the  only  means  of  distinguish- 
ing one  from  another.  If,  however,  I 
am  correct  in  supposing  Jainism  to  be 
a  sort  of  compromise  between  the  other 
two  religions,  which  did  not  acquire 
its  present  form  and  consistency  till 
after  the  downfall  of  the  Buddhists, 
when  they  were  joined  by  most  of  that 
sect  who  had  not  embraced  the  do- 
minant religion ;  these  caves  are  doubly 
interesting  as  showing  us  the  religion 
in  a  state  of  transition  from  one  set  of 
tenets  to  another.'  Of  the  age  of  the 
Jaina  faith  we  here  say  nothing  ;  but 
that  the  Nishik  caves  must  have  ori- 
ginated after  some  revival  of  Buddh- 
ism following  the  great  victory  of  the 
Brahmans  over  that  faith,  and  that 


Sect.  11. 


RovUe  18. — Ndahih 


283 


thcj  belong  to  some  system  of  transi- 
tion and  compromise,  we  think  evi- 
dent, not  only  from  their  architectural 
character  resembling  those  at  Eli!ira 
here  referred  to  by  Mr.  Fergusson, 
but  from  one  of  those  inscriptions  for- 
warded to  us  by  Dr.  Gibson  in  1836, 
and  also  given,  by  Dr.  Bird,  from 
a  transcript  by  Mr.  H.  W.  Reeyes, 
C.S.  «That  inscription  is  in  Sanskrit, 
'  though  not  of  the  purest  character, 
and  though  Dr.  Stevenson,  who  has 
correctly  given  the  scope  of  it  to  Dr. 
Bird,  thinks  from  his  interpretation  of 
its  general  astronomical  date,  it  points 
to  a  construction  about  B.C.  453,  it 
yet  seems  evident,  from  its  contents  as 
noticed  by  Dr.  Bird,  that  it  indicates 
such  a  state  of  matters  as  may  be  sup- 
posed to  have  existed  when  Buddhism 
was  becoming  somewhat  assimilated  to 
the  rites  of  the  Shaiva  Mdrgls.*  It 
refers  very  distinctly  to  the  BrAhmans, 
and  several  of  their  distant  and  proxi- 
mate holy  places,  and  to  several  of 
their  customs  and  legends.  The  fol- 
lowing notes  refer  to  the  details  of  the 
Ndshik  caves,  which  hare  not  jet  been 
fully  enumerated.  They  commence 
with  the  N.  extremity,  or  that  on  the 
right  hand  as  the  visitor  ascends  the 
hill : — 1.  Unfinished  compartment, 
with  a  few  steps,  but  without  figures. 
Workmanship  modern  in  appearance. 
2.  Chamber  with  three  4  ft.  figures  of 
Buddha  seated  with  attendants,  with 
cIvaunrU  (fans  made  of  the  Tibet  cow*s 
tail),  and  giving  their  blessing.  3.  A 
square  hall  of  about  17  by  19  paces, 
with  a  dahgop  of  about  13  ft.  project- 
ing from  the  wall  opposite  the  door, 
and  with  18  monks'  cells  at  the  sides. 
At  the  corners  of  the  dahgop  are  two 
figures  with  chaunris.  In  the  front  of 
this  excavation  are  three  doors  and 
pillars,  one  of  which  is  broken.  They 
are  supported  by  six  giants  (from  the 
breast  upwards) ;  and  on  their  capitals 
are  the  figures  of  the  heads  of  bulls, 
elephants,  lions,  owls,  goats,  and  of  a 
man  and  woman.  There  are  two  cells 
in  the  verandah.  4.  A  tank  (?)  6. 
Four  cells  of  monks,  with  two  pillars, 
and  two  pilasters  in  front,  on  the  ca- 

*  BirtVs  "  Historical  Researches,"  p.  61. 


pitals  of  which  are  elephants,  cows, 
lions,  and  antelopes.  6.  Square  hall 
like  No.  3,  with  16  cells,  and  a  dahgop 
projecting  from  the  wall  opposite  the 
entrance.  In  the  middle  of  the  dah- 
gop there  is  a  Buddha  wearing  a  sliMd^ 
about  6^  ft  high,  and  two  female  at- 
tendants like  &ncing  girls,  frequently 
carved  within  and  without  Hindii 
temples.  On  the  capitals  of  the  six 
pillars  at  the  entrance  are  figures  of 
elephants,  lions,  bulls,  and  owls*  heads. 
Above  the  three  doors  are  large  in- 
scriptions. There  are  two  cells  in  the 
verandah,  with  inscriptions  above  the 
doors.  7.  An  apartment  communi- 
cating with  that  last  mentioned,  with 
three  figures  of  Buddha,  one  of  which 
is  on  an  elephant,  one  on  a  lion,  with 
two  small  figures,  and  one  squatted, 
with  lion's  head  with  curious  ears  be- 
low. 8.  Six  cells.  9.  A  small  room, 
with  Buddha  seated  in  the  centre,  and 
with  two  attendants,  one  of  which  is 
destroyed.  On  the  S.  side  are  two 
small  squatted  Buddha  figures,  sup- 
ported by  two  men  bearing  a  lotus. 
Above  there  is  a  room  nearly  inacces- 
sible, with  three  figures  of  Buddha, 
coarsely  painted  by  the  Brdhmans. 
10.  Boom  of  about  14  paces  by  9,  with 
a  dahgop  near  the  further  end.  The 
roof  is  carved,  as  if  arched.  There  are 
17  pillars,  and  two  of  them  have  in- 
scriptions. There  is  a  cJuinnri  bearer 
near  the  door.  11.  This  is  a  room  of 
about  16  by  9^  paces.  It  is  reached 
by  an  ascent  of  a  few  steps,  leading 
from  No.  10  to  the  right.  It  has  six 
cells  ;  at  the  entrance  of  one  the  Brdh- 
mans  have  constructed  apocryphal 
imag^  of  Ganeslia  and  Hanum&n. 
This  cell  also  contains  a  seat  cut  in 
the  rock  of  about  eight  paces  in  length. 
It  has  two  piUars,  and  two  pilasters, 
with  figures,  like  some  of  those  already 
mentioned  in  the  front.  12.  Large  col- 
legiate hall  of  29  by  17  paces,  with  a 
platform,  4  in.  high,  for  the  teacher, 
and  a  seat  for  the  pupils  running  along 
the  excavation,  except  in  front.  There 
are  21  cells  off  this  room,  but  without 
couches.  One  of  them  has  a  small  in- 
scription. Behind  there  is  a  compart- 
ment, having  an  inscription  in  front, 
with  two  elegant  pillars,  and  two  pi- 


284 


Rovie  18. — Bombay  to  Ndsldh 


Sect.  II. 


lasters,  with  a  Buddha  seated  as  if  lec- 
turing his  disciples,  and  two  chohdars 
with  cluiunrisy  and  two  pages  or 
dwarfs.  There  are  six  pillars  in  the 
entrance  to  this  hall;  but  some  of 
them  are  completely  worn  away  by 
the  action  of  water.  There  are  two 
cells  in  the  verandah,  and  an  empty 
chamber  above  to  the  left.  ]  3.  A  large 
unfinished  semicircular  hall,  with  nu- 
merous figures  of  Buddha,  with  atten- 
dants bearing  channria.     On  the  sides 

are  cells  with  Buddhas In  the 

front  are  five  tanks.  For  bathing  ?  Is 
this  a  place  for  morning  ablutions? 
These  excavations  may  not  be  all  of 
the  same  age.  2.  There  is  another 
series  of  excavated  temples  near  Nd- 
shik.  They  are  on  the  hill  called 
RAmshej,  but  according  to  Dr.  Gibson, 
they  are  comparatively  'of  little  con- 
sequence. 3.  There  are  one  or  two 
small  chambers  in  a  pass  on  the  road 
leading  between  Ndshik  and  ChAnd- 
wad." 

The  following  is  a  translation  by 
Dr.  Stevenson  of  the  only  one  of  the 
inscriptions  that  has  as  yet  been  satis- 
factorily made  out : — 

"  To  the  Perfect  Being.  May  this 
prove  auspicious  1  By  the  son  of  King 
KshapArdta,  ruler  of  the  K§hatriya 
tribe  and  protector  of  men,  the  Lord 
Dinika,  resplendent  as  the  mom,  a  gift 
of  a  hundred  thousand  cows  along  with 
the  river  BanAsd,  and  also  a  gift  of 
gold,  even  by  him  the  constructor  of 
this  holy  place  for  the  gods,  and  for 
the  Brdhmans  to  mortify  the  passions. 
There  is  not  so  desirable  a  place  even 
at  PrabhAsa,  where  hundreds  of  thou- 
sands of  BrAhmans  go  on  pilgrimage 
to  repeat  sacred  verses,  nor  at  the  pure 
city  of  Gaya,  where  Brdhmans  go,  nor 
at  the  steep  hill  at  Ddsapura,  nor  the 
serpents'  field  at  Govardhana,  nor  at 
the  city  of  Pratisraya,  where  there  is 
a  Buddhistical  monastery,  nor  even  at 
the  edifice  built  by  Depanakara  on  the 
shore  of  the  freshwater  sea.  This  is 
a  place  which  confers  incomparable 
benefits,  wholly  pleasing,  well  fitted 
for  the  spotted  deer-skin  of  the  ascetic. 
A  safe  boat  has  been  provided  by  him, 
the  maker  also  of  a  free  ferry,  which 
daily  plies  to  the  well  supported  bank. 


By  him  also,  the  constructor  of  a  house 
for  travellers,  and  a  public  reservoir  of 
water,  a  gilded  lion  (deer  ?)  has  been 
set  up  at  the  crowded  gate  of  this 
Govardhana,  another  also  .at  the  ferry, 
and  another  at  Bdmatlrtha.  For  lean 
cattle  within  the  bounds  of  the  village 
there  are  various  kinds  of  food,  for 
such  cattle  more  than  a  hundred  kinds 
of  grass,  and  a  thousand  mountain 
roots,  given  by  this  bounteous  donor. 
In  this  very  Govardhana,  in  the  radiant 
mountains,  this  excavation  was  ordered 
to  be  made  by  the  same  charitable  per- 
son. And  these  venerated  by  men, 
namely,  the  8im^  Sukra^  and  Rdhu 
were  in  their  exultation  in  that  year 
when  the  gift  was  bestowed.  Lali^kmi^ 
Indra^  and  Yama  also  consecrated  it 
(in  Vaishdkha),  and  the  couch  was  set 
up  on  the  most  fortunate  day  of  the 
month,  BhMrapad.  Thereafter,  these, 
Lnltfhmi,  Indra,  and  Yama  departed 
with  a  shout  of  triumph  for  their  ex- 
cellent  easy  car,  sustained  by  the  force 
of  incantatory  verses,  on  the  unbroken 
road.  When  all  their  retinue  had  de- 
parted and  was  gone,  there  fell  a 
shower  of  water  before  the  army, 
which,  being  purified  and  having  de- 
parted and  having  passed  over  with 
the  thousand  cows,  approaches  the 
village.*' 

In  the  Trans,  of ,  the  2nd  session  of 
the  International  Congress  of  Orien- 
talists held  in  London,  1874,  at  p.  306 
is  a  paper  on  the  NAshik  Cave  Inscrip- 
tions by  Prof.  Kdmkrishna  GopAl 
Bhandarkar,  which  should  be  consulted. 
From  his  translations  he  infers  that  in 
the  early  centuries  of  the  Christian 
era  Buddhism  was  fiourishing  in  this 
part  of  India  (NAshik).  He  also 
argues  that  the  date  for  Gautamiputra 
who  overthrew  the  Sdh  dynasty,  is 
319-340  A.D.  The  inscriptions  refer  to 
charitable  gifts  of  land,  &c.,  and  some 
of  the  dates  are  118, 119  and  120  A.D. 

Ib'imbak.  —  The  third  expedition 
should  be  to  Trimbak  and  the  sources 
of  the  GodAvarl  river.  The  villages 
on  the  road  are  as  follows : — 1.  Sha- 
ranpiir,  2}  m. ;  2.  Sdtpi!ir,  li^  m. ;  3. 
PipalgAoii,  2  m.;  4.  Mahirawani,  2^ 
m. ;  5.  Khambali,  3}  m. ;  6.  Unjawari, 
2\  m. ;  7.  PengalwAdl,  2  m.;  8.  Trim- 


Sect.  IT. 


RoiUe  18. — Ndshih 


285 


bak,  3  m. ;  total,  191  m.  This  is  a 
very  bad  road,  and  impracticable  in 
wet  weather.  There  is,  before  reach- 
ing Pipalg4oii,aN41ah  with  deep  mud 
impassable  in  the  rains,  which  will 
perhaps  tak^  half  an  hour  to  cross, 
where  the  assistance  of  2  or  3  strong 
men  will  be  required  to  push  the 
wheels,  as  the  horses  cannot  struggle 
through  unaided.  There  is  another 
Ndlah,  with  a  rocky  bed,  200  yds.  be- 
yond this  one.  The  road  is  yery  bad 
all  the  way  from  Pipalg&o&.  Just 
before  Mafalrawani  there  is  a  stream 
with  a  rocky  bed,  to  cross  which  you 
must  go  off  the  road  and  get  the  help 
of  at  least  3  strong  men.  The  change 
of  horses  will  be  a  little  beyond  Kham- 
bal^,  where  there  is  a  large  tree  under 
which  breakfast  may  be  taken.  Lofty 
hills  rise  on  the  left  over  Unjaneri, 
where  tigers,  panthers,  and  'bears  may 
be  found.  The  black  partridge  will  be 
here  heard  crying  on  all  sides,  and 
gigantic  adjutants  may  be  seen  stand- 
ing over  the  fields  and  swallowing  frogs 
and  occasionally  a  snake.  There  are 
several  stone-faced  wells  on  this  route, 
andatNirw4di,on  the  rightof  the  road, 
is  a  beautiful  tank  lined  with  stone, 
and  with  stone  steps  and  2  small  pa- 
godas buUt  by  Ahalya  B4i.  It  is  17  ft. 
deep,  and  about  4  acres  in  area.  On 
a  hUl  opposite  is  a  large  brick  house. 
Near  W^di  2  conical  hills,  about  900 
ft.  high,  face  each  other  on  either  side 
of  the  road.  From  these  the  hills  run 
in  fantastic  shapes  to  Trimbak,  where 
they  form  a  gigantic  crescent  from 
1200  to  1500  ft.  high.  Below  this  wall, 
which  has  near  the  top  a  scarp  of 
nearly  100  ft,  is  Trimbak.  The  road 
runs  W.  and  by  S.  the  whole  way,  and 
Trimbc^  is  only  2  m.  from  the  Gh^^s. 
It  is  a  small  town  of  about  3000  in- 
habitants. The  Goddvari  rises  in  the 
N.  comer  of  the  mountains,  at  a  place 
called  Gang4  Dwdr,  where  is  a  temple 
to  Shiva,  and  is  said  to  disappear  and 
to  rise  again  about  200  ft.  down.  The 
ascent  to  the  temple  is  by  a  precipitous 
path,  at  the  worst  part  of  which  there 
are  some  stone  steps  2  ft.  broad.  Here 
you  look  down  600  ft.,  and  altogether 
it  is  a  dangerous  route ;  but  the  In- 
dians of  the  place  think  nothing  of  it, 


and  a  man  goes  every  12  hours  to  do 
the  service  at  the  Shiva  temple.  The 
actual  source  of  the  Goddvari  is  a  dis- 
puted matter,  as  some  allege  that  it 
rises  on  the  other  side  of  the  mountain, 
4  m.  off.  Trimbak  has  its  name  from 
Tri,  "three,"  and  AvihaJc,  "eye;" 
three-eyed  being  a  name  of  Shiva. 
The  temple  of  Trimbakeshwar,  which 
is  on  the  £.  side  of  the  town,  not  far 
from  where  the  Ndshik  road  enters  the 
town,  was  built  by  the  great  B&ji  Rdo 
Peshwk,  who  died  April  28,  1740.  It 
cost  £90,000.  It  stands  in  a  stone  in- 
closure,  which  has  no  corridor,  but  a 
portico,  which  is  the  Music  Gallery, 
and  is  40  ft.  high.  The  ascent  is  by 
steps  outside,  and  strangers  are  per- 
mitted to  mount  in  order  to  see  the 
temple,  which  none  but  Hindiis  may 
enter.  The  inclosure  is  267  ft.  long 
from  B.  to  W.,  and  214  ft.  broad  from 
N.  to  S.  The  temple  itself  is  102  ft. 
long  from  E.  to  W.,and  66  ft.  from  K. 
to  S.  It  consists  of  the  same  parts  as 
that  of  Sundar  Ndr^yan  at  Ndshik,  but 
is  built  of  a  darker  stone,  and  the  ady- 
tum has  13  flutes  on  either  side.  On 
the  top  are  4  cones  of  copper-gilt.  The 
spire  is  84  ft.  high.  At  the  W.  end  of 
the  inclosure  is  a  tank  25  ft.  long  an.d 
two  trees,  and  at  the  E.  end  a  sn^fdl 
temple  to  Nandi,  with  several  trees. 
Nearer  the  hUls  is  a  larger  tank,  with 
a  temple  to  Ksheti  Adipadi  or  Trisan- 
deshwar.  N.  of  the  temple  and  out- 
side the  town  is  a  hill  called  Nir 
Parwat,  and  between  is  a  temple  to 
Indra,  called  Indratirt;h,  and  another 
to  Kedareshwar  or  Kusawati.  The 
Goddvari  here  for  J-  of  m.  from  the 
large  temple  towards  the  hills,  is  15  ft. 
broad,  with  stone  sidings.  The  water 
is  dirty.  After  that  distance  you  come 
to  a  fine  stone  tank,  120  ft.  sq.,  sur- 
rounded on  3  sides  by  a  portico  25  ft. 
high,  with  a  pagoda  at  each  comer. 
Close  to  it  is  a  stone  inclosure  full  of 
filthy  water,  into  which  the  leaves 
offered  to  the  deities  are  thrown  and 
there  decompose.  At  the  S.  end  is  a 
temple  to  Shiva.  There  used  to  be  a 
fort  on  the  top  of  the  mountain,  but 
no  Bigns  of  it  are  visible  now. 

Tlie  traveller  should  not  leave  NAphik 
without  visiting  Sharampilir,  which  is 


286 


Houte  19. — Ndshil-  to  JahalpHr. 


Sect.  TI. 


in  the  missioiiary  quarter.  The  mission 
was  founded  by  the  Church  Missionary 
Society  in  1885,  in  the  Jtindwddi  port 
of  Ndshik,  and  was  moved  to  Sharam- 
piir  by  Mr.  W.  S.  Price  in  1865.  Since 
the  establishment  of  the  Government 
High  School  at  N^Wiik  in  1872,  the 
missionary  school  has  fallen  off.  There 
was  an  African  Asylum,  which  closed 
in  1875,  and  Mr.  Mce  took  the  boys 
to  the  E.  coast  of  Africa  opposite  Mom- 
baz,  where  a  colony  is  established  for 
redeemed  slaves.  The  large  school- 
room, well  built  of  brick,  is  used  as  a 
church.  There  are  upwards  of  30  boys 
in  the  school.  In  the  second  room  are 
upwards  of  20  boys,  from  7  to  11, 
chiefly  of  the  Dhe):  caste ;  in  another 
room  are  about  20  girls,  from  9  to  13, 
who  can  read  the  6th  Mardthl  book 
fluently  and  parse  correctly.  They 
can  write  in  Mardthi  very  tolerably. 
There  is  a  4th  room  with  about  20  little 
girls,  all  Mhdrs,  the  lowest  caste. 
There  is  a  workshop  where  smiths'  and 
carpenters'  works  are  done,  and  even 
tongas  are  built  there. 

Ndshik  may  be  called  theW.  Ba- 
ndras,  as  the  God^vari  is  termed  the 
GangA— "Ganges."  All  HindTis  of 
rank  on  visiting  it  leave  a  record  of 
their  visit  with  their  Up&dhyd,  or 
*'  family  priest,"  for  each  noble  family 
has  such  a  priest  at  each  celebrated 
place  of  pilgrimage.  In  this  record 
are  entered  the  names  of  the  visitor's 
ancestors,  and  thus  the  pedigree  of 
every  Hindii  chief  is  to  be  found  in 
the  keeping  of  these  Upddhyds.  Even 
Jang  Bahadur,  the  late  ruler  of  Nip&l, 
had  his  Up^hy^  at  Ndshik,  and  it  is 
easy  to  see  what  a  means  this  forms 
of  procuring  information  in  a  way 
utterly  unknown  to  the  European 
officials.  The  present  Gdekwdd  owes 
his  seat  on  the  throne  to  this  custom, 
for  when  the  G4ekwdd  of  Baroda  was 
deposed  and  an  heir  sought  for,  the 
family  Upddhyd  at  Ndshlk  supplied 
proofs  of  the  young  prince's  legitimate 
descent  from  Pratdp  B&o,  brother  of 
Dum^ji,  the  Srd  Gdekwdd. 


ROUTE    19. 

Ki.SHIK  TO  JABALPT^B. 

Although  Jabalptir  is  in  Central  In- 
dia, yet  as  it  forms  the  terminus  of 
the  G.  I.  P.  Bailway,  which  is  essen- 
tially a  Bombay  railway,  an  account 
of  it  will  be  given  here.  Those  who 
have  time  to  stop  a  couple  of  days  at 
Manmdd,  may  pay  a  visit  to  Chandiir 
to  the  N.,  which  is  13  m.  distant,  and 
to  Ankai  Tankai,  6  m.  to  the  S.  Ar- 
rangements must  be  made  with  the 
collector  of  Ndshik  for  a  conveyance 
previously.  Chandwad  or  Chandtir, 
is  a  flourishing  town  containing  a  pop. 
of  5662.  On  the  E.  is  a  range  of  hills, 
on  the  W.'a  cultivated  plain.  Accord- 
ing to  the  Tatwa,  a  Hindii  book,  the 
country  of  the  Mar&^has  terminates 
with  the  Chandwad  Hills ;  and  beyond 
is  Khindesh.  One  of  the  grandest 
peaks  of  this  range  is  that  which, 
overlooking  the  town  of  Chdndwad,  is 
crowned  with  an  ancient  fort,  much 
mentioned  in  Mul^ammadan  and  Ma- 
rdtha  wars.  This  fort  was  captured, 
after  slight  resistance,  by  Colonel 
Wallace,  in  1804,  who  thus  describes 
it:  "The  hill  on  which  it  stands,  or 
rather  whichforms the  fort,  is  naturally 
the  strongest  I  ever  saw,  being  quite  in- 
accessible everywhere  but  at  the  gate- 
way, where  alone  it  is  fortified  by  art, 
and  where  it  is  by  no  means  weak. 
There  is  but  one  entrance  of  any  kind." 
It  was  subsequently  restored  to  Hol- 
kar,  but  in  1818  surrendered  to  a 
detachment  of  Sir  Thomas  Hislop's 
army.  It  is  remarkable  that  Holkar 
is  the  Pdtll  of  this  place ;  and  there  is 
a  fine  building  in  the  centre  of  the 
town,  called  the  Raftg  Ma^al,  where 
his  family  resided. 

Anitai  Tankai. — Twelve  m.  S.E.  of 
Chdndwad  are  the  Hill-forts  and  Cavei 
of  Ankai  Tanka%  which  are  in  the 
Patodd  T'alu|:,  and  are  thus  described 
by  Major  (afterwards  Sir  George) 
Wingate.  Ankai  is  a  small  deserted 
viUage,  under  the  Hill-fort  of  the  same 
name..  The  former  inhabitants  wei'e 


Sect  IT. 


Itoute  19. — AnJcai  Tanl-ai. 


287 


mostly  on  the  fort  establishment,  and 
on  this  being  broken  up,  had  to  pro- 
ceed elsewhere  in  search  of  a  subsis- 
tence.     Behind  the  village,  about  100 
ft.  higher  on  the  hill,  is  a  small  series 
of  seven  or  eight  cave  temples,  all 
evidently  Buddhist,  and  belonging  to  a 
late  age,  like  the    Indra    Sabhd    at 
Eli!ira.     These  caves  all  adjoin  each 
other,  and  beginning  from  the  W.  end 
of  the  series  are  as  follows.      1.  A 
small  cave,  in  the  style  of  a  Hindii 
temple,  having  the  top  supported  by 
four    square,  carved    columns.      The 
shrine  is  empty,  but  the  doorway  is 
sculptured   with   male    and    female 
figures,  most  of  them  having  some- 
thing like  a  human  head  in  one  hand, 
and  the  palm  of  the  other  hand  turned 
outwards.    The  outer  doorway  of  the 
cave,  communicating  with  the  front 
verandah,    is    sculptured    over    with 
small  naked  figures    of  Buddha  in  a 
sitting  posture,  like  those  of  the  Indra 
SabhA  at  Eliira.     There  is  an  upper 
apartment  to  this  cave,  but  without 
sculptures.      2.    A  small  but  rather 
e^borately  carved  cave.    At  each  end 
of  the  front  verandah  is  a  colossal 
figure,  but  so  covered  up  with  rubbish 
as  to  be  only  partly  visible.    That  to 
the  W.  is  apparently  a  figure  of  Buddha, 
with  a  pyramidical  cap,  or  tiara,  on  his 
head.     Hie  figure  at  the  opposite  end 
is  a  female  with  curly  hair,  and  Nubian 
countenance.    The  male  figure  is  sculp- 
tured on  a  slab,  which  has  been  let 
into  the  rock,  possibly  in  consequence 
of  the  rock  itself  not  having  been  well 
suited  for  sculpture.    The  inner  cave 
and  shrine  are  very  like  a  Hindii  tem- 
ple, but  without  sculpture.    3.  Similar 
in  arrangement  to  the  two  preceding 
caves,  i,e.,  consisting  of  a  front  veran- 
dah, an  inner  temple,  and  an  inmost 
shrine.    At  the  end  of  the  front  ve- 
randah are  a  male  and  female  figure 
similar  to  those  of  No.  2.     Both  have 
thick-lipped  Nubian  countenances,  and 
the  female  has  immense  circular  pen- 
dants in  her  e.'urs,  like  the  wooden  discs 
worn  by  some  of  the  South  Sea  Is- 
landers.    The  inner  apartments  are 
exactly  like  a  Hindii  temple,  the  cen- 
tral ornament  on  the  roof  is  formed  of 
small  figures  of  musicians  playing  on 


various  kinds  of  instruments,  and  in 
another  circle  outside  of  the  former,  are 
figures  mounted  on  various  sorts  of 
animals.  On  each  side  of  the  doorway 
to  the  shrine  are  upright  naked  figures 
with  hands  hanging  down  by  their 
sides  like  those  in  the  Indra  Sabhd 
group  at  Eliira.  4.  Similar  in  ar- 
rangement to  the  preceding  caves,  but 
without  sculptures.  ;  There  is  an  in- 
scription in  the  Devandgari  character 
on  one  of  the  columns  of  the  front  ve- 
randah, but  apparently  of  a  later  date 
than  the  cave  itself.  6.  Similar  in 
arrangement  to  the  others,  but  without 
sculptures  in  the  temple.  In  the  tank 
excavated  underneath  are  two  figures 
of  Buddha,  naked  and  seated  in  the 
cross-legged  position,  with  hands  on 
lap  and  soles  of  feet  turned  upwards. 
The  features  are  Nubian.  6.  Similar 
to  preceding,  but  with  doorway  sculp- 
tured. 7.  The  same  without  sculp- 
tures. 

Most  of  these  cave  temples  have  an 
upper  apartment,  probably  for  the  ac- 
conmiodation  of  the  officiating  priest, 
and  a  tank  for  water  excavated  under- 
neath.    They  are  nearly  all  on  the 
same  plan,  and  apparently  belong  to 
one  period.    The  African  type  of  the 
faces  of  the  sculptured  figures  is. very 
remarkable ;  though  as  in  the  caves  of 
Eliira,  the  noses  and  mouths  have  all 
been  more  or  less  defaced.  After  visit- 
ing the  caves,  the  traveller  may  ascend 
to  the  hill-fort  of  Tankai.    The  twin 
fort  immediately  E.   of  it    is  called 
AUa-Palka^  and    the  village   below 
Ankai,      Both   forts,    however,    are 
known  to  us  as  AnJuii  Tankai,    The 
top  of  the  hill  of  Tankai  must  be  about 
1000  ft.  above  the  plain,  and  the  ascent 
is  very  steep,  great  part  of  it  being  by 
steps  cut  in  the  rock.    From  the  sum- 
mit is  a  magnificent  view  over  a  wide 
extent  of  country.    Bears  and  panthers 
may  be  found  by  the  sportsman.    Ma- 
jor Wingate  saw,  from  this   hill,  a 
large  chitd  stealing  after  a  herd  of 
cattle  which  were  grazing  below,  but 
the  cattle  were  startled,  and  evidently 
conscious  of  his  proximity,  and  did 
not  give  him  an  opportunity  of  making 
his  spring,  though  he  followed  them 
up  closely  for  about  half  a  mile  to  tLo 


288 


Route  19. — Ndshih  to  Jabaly^r. 


Sect.  11. 


very  verge  of  the  bush  jangle.  The 
watershed  of  the  Tapti  and  God^vari 
systems  of  drainage  occurs  at  the  pass 
of  Ankai-Tankaiy  but  there  is  no  per- 
ceptible ridge,  the  plain  being  con- 
tinued through  the  pass  to  the  other 
side  of  the  hills.  Almost  10  m.  further 
N.  is  a  ridge,  which  divides  the  Dak- 
han  from  Ehdndesh,  and  four  or  five 
m.  of  rather  rough  country  sloping 
down  to  the  plain  of  Kh^ndesh.  The 
difference  of  level  between  the  plain 
of  Khdndesh  under  the  hills,  and  that 
above,  is  not  great,  and  Major  Win- 
gate  does  not  estimate  it  at  more  than 
150  ft.  The  plain  of  KhAndesh  ap- 
pears to  be  everywhere  covered  with 
low  bush  jungle,  which  is  not  really 
the  case,  however,  as  a  great  deal  of 
it  is  cleared.  The  appearance  is  oc- 
casioned by  belts  of  bushes  lining  the 
fields,  roads,  and  water-courses,  as  well 
as  by  the  continuous  bush-jungle  of 
the  uncultivated  lands. 

At  the  first  station  out  of  Ndshik 
you  lose  sight  of  the  NAshik  Hills.  At 
Manmdd  there  is  a  remarkable  pyra- 
midal hill  about  750  ft.  high,  with  a 
tall  obelisk-like  rock  at  least  60  ft. 
high  at  the  top  of  it.  At  the  back  of 
this  hill  are  Ankai  and  Tankai.  After 
this  the  hills  sink  down  until  they  dis- 
appear. Near  ChiilisgAon  the  water- 
shed changes,  and  a  stream  is  crossed, 
flowing  from  S.  to  N.  There  is  a  thick, 
low  jungle  in  this  part  of  the  journey. 
At  Bhosdwal  there  is  very  good  ac- 
commodation in  the  railway  officers' 
rooms,  which  are  60  yds.  in  rear  of  the 
station.  Beyond  Bhos&wal,  the  coun- 
try is  flat,  with  abundant  cultivation. 
At  Chdndin  commences  a  beautiful 
jungle,  with  long  grass  permeated  by 
fine  streams  of  water.  There  are  tigers 
in  this  jungle ;  deer  often  come  within 
30  yds.  of  the  line.  At  ChandwA, 
Holkar's  State  Railway  joins.  From 
HdrdA  there  is  an  ascent  all  the  way 
to  Jabalpdr.  At  SuhAgpiir  there  is  a 
tolerable  restaurant,  and  ice  may  be 
obtained. 

Jahalpur. — ^Laurie's  Great  Northern 
Hotel  is  the  place  to  stop  at.  It  is 
about  1  m.  to  the  E.  by  S.  from  the 
station.  There  are  pankhAs  in  every 
room.    The   table   d'hdte  meals   are 


Chhota  H4zari,  that  is  tea  or  coffee^ 
before  breakfast,  breakfast,  tiffin  and 
dinner.  The  3  last  at  9*30  AJi.,  1*30 
P.M.,  and  7*30  P.M.  No  meals  will 
be  served  in  bedrooms  unless  charged 
for  extra.  The  proprietors  strictly 
object  to  the  use  of  drinkables  other 
than  those  supplied  by  the  hotel. 
The  general  sitting  room  is  upstairs, 
the  dining  room  on  the  ground  fioor. 
Visitors  are  earnestly  requested  not  to 
ill-treat  tJ^e  hotel  servants,  and  par- 
rots, &c.,  are  not  allowed  in  the  house. 
Special  accommodation  is  provided  for 
them.  For  lodging  and  board  per 
diem  the  charge  is  5  rupees  ;  a  private 
table  for  one  person  is  charged  8  rs. 
European  servants  are  charged  3  rs. 
a  day,  and  Portuguese  2  rs.  Each 
person  is  charged  8  dnds  a  day  for  ice, 
when  it  is  procurable.  A  man  who 
pulls  the  pai^4  is  paid  3  4n&s  during 
the  day  and  3  in4s  more  for  the  night. 
The  washerman  is  paid  4  rs.  for  each 
hundred  pieces.  The  first  thing  to  be 
seen  is  the  Marble  Kocks,  which  are 
11  m.  off.  The  charge  for  visiting 
them  is  for  one  person  Rs.  10,  for  2 
persons  12,  for  3  persons  14,  and  for  4 
persons  16.  The  road  to  the  Marble 
Rocks  is  heavy  and  dusty  in  places, 
but  generally  good.  You  go  through 
the  cantonments  by  the  N4gpi!ir  Road, 
and  after  2  miles  turn  up  the  Nar- 
slnghpur  Road.  There  are  trees  on 
both  sides  all  the  way,  chiefiy  mango 
trees.  At  9^  m.  turn  left  to  the  rocks, 
by  a  branch  road,  which  fpr  the  last 
half  mile  has  steep  pitches  distressing 
to  horses,  and  not  practicable  in 
the  rains.  Stop  at  what  is  caUed  the 
old  bangle.  There  is  a  new  banglA 
called  the  District,  200  yds.  beyond, 
but  you  must  apply  to  the  munici- 
pality of  Jabalpik  for  leave  to  stop  at 
it,  and  you  pay  Rs.  2  a  day  instead  of 
1,  and  cannot  stop  longer  than  three 
days.  Descend  70  ft.  to  the  river  side, 
and  there  embark  in  a  neat  6-oar  boat 
with  cushions.  Four  men  to  row  and 
1  to  steer  are  quite  enough.  Each 
visitor  who  goes  in  the  boat  pays  8 
An4s,  and  each  man  has  2  im^  besides, 
and  4  dnds  are  charged  for  the  boat. 
The  river  in  the  dry  season  is  a  series 
of  deep  pools  without  current,  and  of 


Sect.  11. 


Eoute  19. — JahcUpiir. 


289 


a  dark  green,  and  fall  of  fish  and  alli- 
gators. The  latter  do  not  come  out  on 
the  rocks  tDl  the  sun  is  high,  when 
they  bask,  and  might  be  shot  at,  were 
it  not  for  the  bees.  There  are  masses 
of  pigeons,  too,  and  water  fowl,  but 
shooting  has  its  perils,  for  there  are 
hornets'  nests  and  bees'  nests.  These 
quickly  attack  sportsmen  who  fire 
guns  and  make  a  noise.  Just  at  the 
end  of  the  pools,  at  a  place  called  the 
Monkey's  Leap,  2  young  railway  engi- 
neers were  attacked  by  bees  as  they 
were  shooting.  One  got  ashore  and 
ran  ofE  with  the  natives  into  the 
jungle,  and  though  much  stung,  es- 
caped death.  The  other  jumped  into 
the  water  and  dived,  and  though  a 
good  swimmer,  was  drowned,  for  when 
he  came  up  the  bees  attacked  him 
again,  and  would  not  leave  him  till  he 
sank.  The  nests  are  quite  black,  and 
more  than  a  yard  long.  The  cliffs 
are  of  white  marble,  which,  when 
broken,  is  bright  and  sparkling,  but 
the  outside  is  discoloured  by  the  wea- 
ther. You  pass  first  under  the  new 
bangld  and  several  white  temples,  the 
cliffs  being  80  ft.  high.  The  water  is 
said  by  the  people  of  the  place  to  be 
here  150  ft.  deep.  You  then  turn  at 
right  angles  to  the  right  up  a  narrow 
gorge,  and  row  about  1  m.,  when  you 
come  to  barrier  rocks,  which  intercept 
the  stream,  and  no  boat  can  pass 
further  in  the  dry  season.  In  the  rains 
the  river  rises  30ft.,  and  is  then  a 
mighty  toijent,  and  very  dangerous. 
About  a  quarter  of  a  mile  up,  on  the 
left,  is  an  inscription  in  the  Ndgarl 
character.  The  temples  were  built  by 
M^hu  KAo  PeshwA.  Three  quarters 
of  a  mile  on  the  left  are  curious  rocks 
called  HAthi  k&  Pdiiw,  "elephant's 
legs,"  from  a  fancied  resemblance. 
Besides  the  bees'  and  hornets'  nests, 
there  are  many  of  the  Ababll,  or 
"  swallow,"  and  there  are  '  peacocks 
and  hundreds  of  baboons ;  panthers 
are  very  numerous.  The  height  of 
the  rocks  nowhere  exceeds  90. ft.,  and 
though  the  scenery  is  picturesque,  it  is 
not  grand.  There  is  a  cascade  j  m.  be- 
yond the  barrier  rocks  called  the  Dhii- 
4ndhAr  or  '*  Smoke  Sheet.' '  Returning 
from  the  barrier  rocks,  it  will  be  well  to 

[Bombay— IS^O,] 


land  at  the  new  bangl4  and  climb  the 
cliff,  which  is  very  steep  but  practica- 
ble. Beyond  this,  80  yds.,  is  a  flight 
of  107  stone  steps,  some  of  them 
carved,  which  leads  to  the  Madanpiir 
temple,  which  is  surrounded  by  a  cir- 
cular stone  enclosure.  All  round  it 
are  figures  of  Parvatl,  with  1  leg  in 
her  lap.  These  figures  are  much  mu- 
tilated. He-descend  the  steps,  and 
walk  200  yards  to  the  tomb  of  the  en- 
gineer who  was  drowned  by  the  bees. 
The  epitaph  says,  **  Here  lie  the  re- 
mains of  Richard  Bagster,  Esq.,  C.E., 
in  the  service  of  the  &.  I.  P.  Railway 
Co.,  who  was  attacked  by  bees  and 
drowned  in  the  river  NirbadA,  near 
this  spot,  on  the  1st  of  May,  1859, 
aged  29  years." 

If  the  traveller  desire  to  see  the 
Jail  at  Jabalpi!ir  and  the  Thag  School, 
he  must  apply  to  the  collector  for  a 
pass.  The  Jail  stands  in  the  lines,  and 
contains  from  900  to  1000  prisoners, 
of  whom  about  60  are  women.  There 
are  excellent  workshops  here.  The 
prisoners  learn  to  make  daris,  or 
striped  cotton  cloths,  in  6  weeks.  A 
darl  costs  4  rs.,  and  is  made  by  2  men 
in  3  days.  The  oil  pressing  is  very 
hard  labour.  The  prisoners  turn  a 
huge  pestle  by  a  sort  of  capstan  and 
crush  the  seed,  from  which  oil,  thatlooks 
like  soap  and  water,  flows  out.  The  drop 
here  is  only  4  ft.  from,  the  ground,  and 
the  fall  is  only  2J  ft.,  so  that  the 
criminal  is  said  to  be  sometimes  G 
minutes  in  dying.  The  School  of  In- 
dustry was  founded  in  1835  to  reclaim 
Thags.  The  Goindahs,  or  "  Informers," 
were  placed  here.  Almost  all  the  old 
hands  have  died  out,  but  the  widows 
and  children  remain.  Originally  there 
were  2600,  but  there  are  now  only 
1000,  chiefly  women  and  children. 
Tent  making,  thread  and  rope  making, 
smith's  and  carpenter's  work  are  the 
chief  employments.  The  work  people 
live  in  villages,  but  come  daily  to 
work  from  7  till  six.  The  building  is 
in  a  vast  enclosure,  and  the  people  work 
in  sheds  all  round.  It  is  doubtful 
whether  Government  can  ever  release 
even  the  descendantsof  these  people  lest 
the  fearful  traditions  of  their  former 
trade  of  murder  should  be  revived. 


290 


Houte  20,—^\ind^doii  to  Elura, 


Sect.  II. 


ROUTK  20. 

NANDGAOir   TO  ELiJBA. 

The  journey  fromKdndgdon  to  Eliira 
bj  mail  toDga  for  a  gentleman  costs 
Bs.  10,  and  for  a  servant  Rs.  4  ;  for  a 
special  tonga  to  oneself  the  charge  is 
lis.  20,  and  for  a  bullock  cart  to  carry 
the  heavy  luggage  Rs.  5.  The  station  at 
Ndndgdon  is  very  comfortable.  There 
is  a  good  refreshment  room,  with  a 
lavatory,  and  the  T.  B.,  with  three 
rooms,  is  75  yds.  in  rear  of  the  station. 
The  stages  are  as  follows  : — 


From          i              To 

1 

Miles. 

Nindgaon 
Tarora     . 
Deogion      .    . 
Fat^ibad 
Mitmatlia   .    . 

Tarora  . 

Deogaofi  .        .    . 
Fat^dbad     . 
Mitmatlia        .    . 
Aurangabad 

Total  .    .    . 

13 
22 

8 
10 

3 

56 

A  little  beyond  the  4th  milestone 
from  Ndndgaon  is  the  bed  of  a  torrent 
60  ft.  broad,  with  steep  banks,  where 
the  traveller  will  have  to  alight,  as  it 
is  very  difficult  for  the  horses  to  get 
up  the  steep  incline.  At  the  12th  m. 
is  a  large  circular  pile  of  stones,  about 
7  ft.  high,  which  shows  where  English 
territory  marches  with  the  Ni^lm's. 
From  this  pile  one  can  see  Tarora,  but 
the  road  winds  very  much  to  it.  The 
bangla  stands  outside  the  wall  of  the 
village,  but  within  a  wall  of  its  own, 
upwards  of  5  ft.  high,  with  steps  to 
ascend  it  and  descend  it  on  the 
other  side.  This  enclosure  is  not 
without  its  advantages,  as  tigers  some- 
times walk  along  the  road  at  night. 
Horses  are  changed  at  the  12th  mile- 
stone before  reaching  Tarora.  llicre 
are  several  changes  of  horses  in  the 
next  long  stage,  and  the  5th  takes 
place  at  Sindhiwald,  a  small  village, 
and  the  6th  at  a  deserted  bangld 
where  the  civil  engineer  used  to  live. 
Tliere  is  a  very  good  bridge  here  over 
the  Derkoh  river,  with  the  names  of 


Armstrong,  Green,  and  Pope  upon  it, 
and  the  <£ite  1874.  Deogdoii  is  6  m. 
beyond  this,  and  just  before  reaching 
it  is  a  stream,  which  is  easily  passed. 
Tliere  is  a  T.  B.  at  Deogdon.  llie  8th 
change  takes  place  at  Fatl^dbdd, 
where,  250  J^ds.  to  the  right  of  the 
road  is  a  Dargdh,  or  "  shrine,"  with  2 
old  tombs  about  38  ft.  high.  A  stream 
flows  between  the  road  and  these 
buildings,  and  waters  a  garden  full  of 
beautiful  trees.  In  the  tombs  the 
chain  and  bell  are  carved.  At  about 
IG^  m.  from  Aurangdbdd  a  road  turns 
oi¥  to  the  left  to  Ro^ah.  The  T.  B.  at 
Aurangdbdd  is  close  to  the  church. 
From  this  city  Eliira,  Daulatdbdd  and 
Ajanta  may  be  visited.  For  a  descrip- 
tion of  them,  and  the  routes  to  them, 
see  Murray's  "  Madras  Handbook.' 


»» 


ROUTE  21. 

NANDQAoit    TO     AHMADXAGAB, 
JUNNAB,  AND  PUNA. 

From  Ndndgdon  to  Aurangabdd, 
the  stages  have  already  been  given  in 
the  preceding  Route.  The  stages  to 
Aljimadnagar  are  as  follows  : — 


From           '               To 

Miles. 

Aurangiibnd    . 
Baliid         .    . 
Deygdon . 
Tok     .        .    . 
Wonddl  . 
Im&mpur   .  . . 

Balud  . 
Deygaou  .        .    . 

XOK         ■           •           • 

Wondal    .        .    . 
Iinanipur     . 
A^madnagar  .    . 

Total    .    . 

• 

8 

5} 

lU 
15 

14 

12 

66 

For  the  first  6  m.  the  ,road  is  very 
heavy  and  dusty.    Strings  of  buUodk 


Sect.  II. 


Route  21. — Ahmadiiagar. 


291 


carts  are  met,  which  greatly  impede  , 
progress,  as  the  cartmen  are  always  I 
on  the  wrong  side  and  will  not  get  \ 
out  of  the  way.  The  first  change  of  \ 
horses  is  at  Baliid,  where  is  the  tomb  l 
of  a  saint  named  Saiyid  S^ldr,  and 
the  remains  of  a  fine  gateway,  leading 
to  buildings  among  trees.  After  this, 
pass  on  the  right  the  small  fort  of 
Dewalg^ii  and  the  large  Tillage  of 
Acudari,  2  m.  to  the  right.  The  T.  B. 
at  Deyg&on  is  200  yds.  off  the  road 
to  the  left.  After  leaving  this,  pass 
the  Tillage  of  Soldgdon  on  the  left, 
and  come  to  the  Seoul  river,  where 
change  horses.  There  is  a  steep  pitch 
going  down  to  the  rlTer.  The  stream 
is  shallow  during  the  dry  weather.  At 
Tok,  which  is  upon  the  Sangam,  or 
confluence  of  the  PraTra  and  God&Tari 
riTers,  there  is  a  comfortable  T.  B. 
This  place  is  on  the  S.  side  of  the 
QoddTari  riTcr.  The  natiTes  call  the 
riTcr  the  Qang4,  "  Ganges."  It  is  a 
great  riTer  in  the  rains,  but  in  the  dry 
weather  it  is  only  30  yds.  broad,  with 
1  foot  of  water.  A  few  hundred  yards 
to  the  E.  of  the  bangle  is  the  hand- 
some granite  monument  of  James 
Gordon,  of  the  Madras  Medical  Esta- 
blishment, 20  years  surgeon  to  the 
Residency  at  Ndgpiir,  who  died  at 
Tok  on  the  19th  of  NoTcmber,  1821. 
His  widow  purchased  7  acres  of  land, 
and  assigned  them  for  the  perpetual 
support  of  the  tomb.  One  Saiyid 
'Usman  has  now  the  care  of  the  tomb, 
and  gets  the  produce  of  the  land,  but 
as  the  ciTil  authority  does  not  look 
after  him,  the  place  is  utterly  neg- 
lected. The  tomb  has  a  fine  mar- 
ble tablet,  and  is  surrounded  -with  a 
stone  enclosure  S^ft.  high,  which 
again  is  enclosed  in  a  milk  bush 
hedge,  that  the  cattle  haTe  destroyed 
in  places,  and  rubbish  has  accumu- 
lated within.  There  is  a  small  stone 
monument  besides  Mr.  Gordon's,  but 
there  is  no  inscription,  and  no  one 
knows  whose  it  is.  There  are  2  towers 
on  the  riTer's  banks,  with  a  hawser 
between  them  by  which  a  feny-boat 
is  worked  in  the  rains,  at  which  season 
the  water  reaches  the  towers,  which  in 
the  dry  weather  are  40  yds.  aboTe  the 
stream.    There  are  3  Shivite  temples 


near  the  river— -one  at  Tok,  one  at 
Eaigion,  a  village  on  the  opposite 
bank,  and  one  at  Phera  kd  sangam. 
Aurangzib  destroyed  all  the  temples  in 
this  locality,  and  these  were  subse- 
quently built  by  Mar&thas  ;  but  on  the 
23rd  of  Rabl'u  '1  Akhir,  A.H.  1175  = 
1761  A.D.,  the  Nijsdm's  army  reached 
Tok,  set  fire  to  the  town,  and  again 
IcTclled  the  temples.  At  12  m.  from 
Tok  there  is  a  toll  of  4  iuds.  At  6  m. 
beyond  Wonddl  there  is  a  deep  riTer 
bed,  with  Tery  heavy  sand  and  steep 
banks.  Befor  reaching  Imdmpiir  you 
ascend  a  Ghdt  of  the  same  name,  at 
the  summit  of  which,  about  300  ft. 
above  the  plain,  there  is  a  tine  view. 
At  the  top  there  is  a  toll  of  4  dnAs. 
The  T.  B.  at  ImAmpi!ir  has  been  a 
mosque,  it  has  3  rooms,  and  is  very 
comfortable.  The  road  thence  to 
Alt^madnagar  is  excellent.  For  the 
last  3  m.  you  pass  hills  and  through  a 
well-wooded  country,  though  up  to 
that  point  it  is  very  bare.  As  regards 
baggage  in  these  parts,  it  may  be 
noticed  that  the  authorized  load  at 
Aljimadnagar  for  a  bullock  cart  to  draw 
is  10  mans,  or  823  lbs.  A  single  mule 
or  bullock  carries  200  lbs.,  a  camel 
411,  and  an  elephant  1000  to  1200 
lbs. 

Ahmad^wgar^QS^jLBllj  called  Nagar.  — 
The  cantonment  at  Alj^madnagar  is  on 
the  left  of  the  load  coming  from  Tok. 
The  church,  which  is  called  Christ- 
church,  occupies  a  central  position  in 
the  cantonment,  with  a  Boman  Catholic 
Church  close  to  it.  There  are  two 
tablets  in  the  church,  one  on  either  side 
of  the  Communion  table ;  one  is  to  En- 
sign Robert  Hyde  Colebrooke,  who  was 
drowned  in  attempting  to  cross  tlie 
Jamshidjl  Band  near  Fund  on  the 
2l8t  of  October,  1847,  the  other  is  to  1 
officer  and  25  sergeants  and  men  of  the 
3rd  or  King's  Own  Hussars,  who  died 
at  this  station  between  1869  and  1872. 
In  the  Roman  Catholic  Church  is  a 
tablet  to  the  Rev.  Father  Moor,  bom 
in  Tuscany,  who  died  June  13th,  1851, 
of  cholera,  caught  by  attending  on  the 
sick.  The  N.  I.  lines  are  close  to 
where  the  road  from*  Aurangdb^ 
enters  the  cantonment,  and  400  yds.  to 
the  S.E.  of  them  is  the  fort,  which  is 

u  2 


292 


Haute  21. — Ndndgdon  to  Ahmadnagar.  Sect.  II. 


500  yds.  from  E.  to  W.  and  680  from 
N.  to  S.  There  is  a  NAlah  between  it 
and  the  church,  which  is  450  yds.  to 
the  E.  A^madns^ar  was  the  seat  of  a 
MuJI^ammadan  dynasty,  which  began 
in  1490,  under  A^mad  Ni^4m  Shdh 
Bnhri,  according  to  Grant  Dnff,  son 
of  a  BrAhman  of  Vijyanagar.  The 
country  of  this  king,  who  possessed 
Chaul  (Choule)  near  Bombay,  was  the 
only  one  to  which  the  ravages  of  Por- 
tuguese piracy  did  not  extend.  They 
maintained  a  friendly  intercourse  for 
many  years  with  Al^madnagar.  The 
power  of  AH^madnagar  extended  over 
the  greater  part  of  BlrAr  and  the  pro- 
vince of  AurangibAd  and  some  dis- 
tricts in  Khtodesh,  Kalydn,  and  from 
Bankot  to  Bassln  in  the  Konkan.  The 
Mar&tha  chiefs  Rio  Jndava  and  B&jA 
Bhoiisl^  were  under  this  State.  The 
fort  fell  into  Akbar's  hands  in  1605, 
after  sustaining  a  celebrated  siege 
under  ChAnd  Blbl,  widow  of  'All  Adil 
ShAh  of  BijApiir.  It  was  taken  from 
the  NiR&m  by  the  Mardthas  in  1760, 
after  desperate  fighting,  in  which  the 
corps  of  Ibrahim  Kh  An,  who  supported 
the  MarAthas,  was  completely  broken 
and  11  of  his  standards  taken,  while 
the  right  wing  of  the  Ni?;Am's  army 
was  charged  by  the  MarAthas  and  lost 
3000  killed.  (Grant  Duff,  vol.  ii.  p. 
224. )  In  1 797  the  fort  was  made  over 
to  Sindhia  by  the  PeshwA,  from  whom 
it  was  taken  by  General  Wellesley, 
afterwards  Duke  of  Wellington,  on  the 
12th  of  August,  1803.  The  gate  of  the 
fort  which  opens  on  the  Pun  A  road  is 
called  the  Malle  DarwAzah.  On  the 
left  as  you  go  out,  at  25  yds.  off,  is 
an  oblong  tomb  enclosed  in  a 
wooden  palisade,  with  this  inscrip- 
tion : — 

This  Tomb  was  erected 

by  the  Officers  of  the 

Ist  Battalion,  11th  Regiment  Madras  X.I., 

as  a  tribute  of  their  respect 

for  the  Memory  of 

LIEUT.  WILLIAM  PENDERLEATH, 

of  that  Corps,  who  fell  at  the  Assault 

of  the  ?eta  of  A^madziagar, 

on  the  8th  of  August,  1803. 

Let  into  the  wall  on  the  right  as 
you  go  out  at  20  yds.  distance,  is  a 


tablet    with    the    following    inscrip- 
tion : — 

Ciudeadhd  Righ.  Capper  Feadh. 

On  this  spot 

fell   at  the    storm 

of  Ahmadnagar, 

on  the  8th  of  August,  1803, 

THOS.  HUMBERSTONE    McKENZIE, 

Captain  H.M.'s  78th  Regiment 

of  Rosshire  Highlanders, 

son  of 

Colonel  Humberstone  McKenrie, 

who  was  killed  at  the  close  of 

tiie  Mariitha  War 

in  1783. 


This  Tomb 

is  also  consecrated  to 

the  Memory  of 

CAPTAIN    GRANT, 

LIEUTENANT    ANDERSON, 

and  the  Non-Coramissioned 

Officers  and  Privates 

of  the  same  Regiment, 

who  fell  on  that  occasion. 

The  wall  is  about  25  ft.  high  here,  and 
the  marks  of  bullets  are  still  very  ap- 
parent. A  tamarind  tree,  under  which 
the  Duke  of  Wellington  is  said  to  have 
lunched,  is  pointed  out,  on  the  S.W. 
side  of  the  fort.  A  cannon  has  been 
placed  at  each  comer.  After  seeing 
the  fort,  the  traveller  may  drive  2  m. 
past  the  artillery  upper-storied  bar- 
racks, built  after  Miss  Nightingale's 
plan,  and  called  by  her  name.  They 
are  very  dark  and  dirty,  and  it  is  said 
the  men  do  not  like  them,  on  account 
of  the  trouble  in  going  up  stairs. 
Leaving  these  to  the  left  and  passing 
a  dry  NAlah,  which  serves  as  a  sewer 
to  the  cantonments,  you  will  turn  up 
a  few  hundred  yds.  to  the  right  and 
come  to  a  magnificent  old  tamarind 
tree,  under  which  is  a  large  oblong 
tomb,  8  ft.  high,  to  Major  W.  Nixon, 
of  the  19th  regt.  N.I.,  who  died  on 
November  7th,  1831.  At  450  yds.  to 
the  S.W.  of  this  tomb  is  the  Paria 
Bdgh,  or  "  fedry  garden,"  an  old  palace 
of  the  Nagar  kings,  which  has  nothing 
attractive  beyond  historical  associa- 
tions. The  principal  sight  at  A^^mad- 
nagar  is  the  tomb  of  Cbdnd  Bibi,  or 
Saldbat  Khdn,  for  it  is  doubtful  to 
which  of  these  two  personages  it  be- 
longs. The  road  to  it  runs  from  the 
N.  corner  of  the  fort  in  a  N.E.  direc. 


Sect.  II. 


Eoute  21. — Ahmadfiagar. 


293 


tion  for  6  m.  You  can  drive  up  the 
hill  to  the  building,  though  the  incline 
is  long  and  steep.  The  road,  however, 
is  good.  The  building  is  octagonal,  3 
stories  high  ;  below  is  the  crypt,  in 
which  are  two  tombs,  one  of  which 
has  a  smaller  sarcophagus  on  the  top 
of  the  other.  There  is  no  inscription. 
Each  side  of  the  octagon  measures 
36  ft.  You  ascend  28  steps,  each  about 
1  ft.  high,  to  the  1st  story,  which  is 
used  as  a  dormitory  for  the  sick.  As- 
cend then  24  steps,  each  13  in.  high, 
to  the  2nd  story.  There  is  a  fine 
view  from  this  place,  as  the  hill  on 
which  the  building  stands  rises  to 
about  500  ft.  One  sees  to  the  E.  by  N. 
a  very  large  tank.  To  the  N.N.W.  is 
Dongar  Ganj,  10  m.  off,  where  there  is 
a  bangld,  which  was  a  hunting  seat  of 
the  old  kings,  and  is  now  a  place  to 
which  the  English  from  Nagar  go  for 
pic>nics.  It  is  impossible  to  say  whose 
the  tomb  really  was.  Chdnd  Bibl  was 
the  daughter  of  ^usain  Ni^dm  Shdh 
of  Ahmadnagar,  who  reigned  from  1553 
to  1565.  In  1564  she  was  given  in 
marriage  to  'AH  'Adil  Shdh  of  BijApiir. 
and  the  fort  of  SholApilr  was  her  dower. 
After  the  death  of  her 'husband  she 
returned  to  Ahmadnagar.  She  de- 
fended her  native  city  against  the 
Emperor  Akbar's  troops  successfully 
in  the  fii*st  siege,  but  was  assassinated 
during  the  second,  and  the  city  then 
fell  to  the  Mughuls.  Little  i^  known 
of  the  history  of  Saldbat  Khdn.  At 
the  foot  of  the  hill  are  some  irrigation 
works  of  Aurangzlb's  time,  which 
have  been  cleared  from  the  earth  with 
which  they  had  been  silted  up  by  em- 
ploying a  great  body  of  labourers, 
during  the  late  famine.  Mr.  Gost,  the 
superintendent  of  this  work,  thinks 
that  a  landslip  must  have  occurred, 
as  boulders  are  mixed  with  the  super- 
incumbent earth.  The  labourers  under 
his  charge  cleared  away  the  ground 
from  a  fine  stone  embankment  15  ft. 
high,  and  also  a  shaft  with  an  escape 
pipe.  Close  by  to  these  a  stone  reser- 
voir, with  5  ft.  of  water  in  it,  was  laid 
bare,  and  at  200  yds.  to  the  S.  of  it  2 
fine  wells  were  discovered  ;  one  had  5 
ft.  of  water  in  it,  and  when  it  had  been 
cleared^  all  the  people  on  the  spot  took 


to  drinking  this  water.  There  is  also 
a  conduit  which  carries  water  6  m.  to 
the  city,  vrith  a  larger  reservoir  built 
of  stone  to  the  S.E.  The  whole  forms 
a  most  elaborate  system  of  water- 
works, which,  if  kept  in  good  order, 
would  be  of  incalculable  benefit  to  the 
city  of  Nagar  and  adjacent  district. 
For  this  work  the  men  received  1  &n4 
9  pies  a  day  each,  and  the  women  1 
dnd  and  3  pies  each.  They  were  paid 
on  Sunday,  on  which  day  no  work  was 
done.  In  all  970  men,  women,  and 
children  were  employed. 

The  stages,  on  the  way  from  A\y 
madnagar  to  Junnar,  are  as  fol- 
lows : — 


M.  F.  Stages 


From 

To 

Ahmadnagar . 

Seena  River  . 

Sina  River      . 

Kaivaoii . 

Kargaoii    .    . 

Tds     . 

Tis 

KambargAoh  . 

Kambargauu  . 

Sui»a  .        .    . 

8upa .        .    . 

Hauga    . 

Hauga    . 

Pamer       .    . 

Pariier       .    . 

Punawd4i 

Punawatji 

Warjara  . 

Warjara     .    . 

Loui  .        .     . 

Loin 

Alkuti     . 

Alkutl       .    . 

Padll.        .    . 

Padli      . 

Bhela      . 

Bhela         .    . 

Rjyiiri       .     . 

Rajiirl    . 

Pimpalwddi  . 

Pimiialwiidl  . 

Kalwaji . 

Kalwdri .  '     . 

Umruz       .     . 

Uuiruz       .     . 

Wazai-     . 

Wazar     . 

Tejwari      .    . 

Tejwari      .    . 

Siroli      . 

Siroli      . 

Jumiar      .    . 

Total    .    . 

0 

5 

1 

0 

4 

3 

4 

5 

4 

(i= 

1(3  1 

2 

5 

1 

5 

2 

(5 

4 

1= 

11  1 

a 

7 

3 

5 

1 

7 

3 

4= 

12  7 

3 

5 

5 

6= 

92 

1  2    3 

1    7 

2    3 

1    7 

0    2 

2    7= 

11  5 

61    0 

As  far  as  Supd  the  road  is  good  for 
carriages,  after  that  it  becomes  indif- 
ferent. At  2  m.  from  T4s  is  an  ascent, 
and  before  reaching  Kambargdou,  cross 
the  Wallambi  river  and  6  Ndlahs ;  then 
follows  a  descent  of  2  furlongs  towards 
Supd.  Parner  is  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  Parasari  river.  The  Hanga  river 
is  crossed  beyond  the  village  of  that 
name,  and  at  2  m.  4  f.  from  Warjara 
the  Ganesh  Khind  GhAt,  5  furlongs  long, 
is  descended.  Bhela  is  a  market  town . 
PimpalwMi  is  on  the  Kjri^hnawandi 
river,  which  is  crossed  again  before 
Wazar.    Wazar  is  on  the  Kiikri  river 


294 


MorUe  ^\,^^NdndgaQk  to  Ahmadnagar,  Sect.  11. 


and  Juniiar  is  on  the  confluence  of  the 
Mina  and  Kiikrl  rivers. 

Jv/nnar  has  a  pop.  of  10,298.  Mr. 
Sinclair,  C.S.,  says  there  is  perhaps  no 
other  tract  in  the  Bombay  Presidency 
of  the  same  extent,  which  offers  so 
many  points  of  interest.  Junnar  T'a- 
lu^a,  called  formerly  Shivaneri,  after 
the  famous  fort  of  that  name,  lies 
on  a  series  of  mountain  rivers  which 
fall  into  the  Ghod.  The  S.  stream,  the 
Mind  rising  in  the  deep  glen  of  Am- 
boU,  flows  E.  through  a  fertile  valley 
called  the  Minaner,  where  it  is  sweep- 
ing away  the  village  of  Nirgude,  where 
there  is  a  fine  temple  of  Mdruti,  re- 
markable for  its  cloisters,  built  by  one 
of  the  Kulkarnis  family,  who  grew  rich 
in  the  service  of  Mahdddjl  Sindhia. 
Here  is  the  ford  by  which  Shiva jl 
crossed  to  surprise  Junnar  in  May, 
1667,  when  he  carried  off  plunder 
worth  £100,000.  Thepass  is  caUed  the 
Crow's  Gap,  as  being  fitter  for  a  crow 
than  for  a  man.  Two  m.  below  Nir- 
gude is  a  fine  Mughul  dam,  whence  a 
canal  irrigated  Bdglohor,  the  garden 
of  the  fort  of  Shivaneri.  The  Mind 
passes  under  a  good  modem  bridge 
past  Ndrdyangdon,  and  falls  into  the 
Ghod  near  PimpalkherA.  The  Kiikrl 
springs  from  a  cow's  mouth  carved  in 
the  rock,  and  flows  into  a  natural  basin 
near  the  Koli  village  of  Piir,  then  it 
flows  N.  2  m.,  and  turns  again  S.E., 
into  a  valley  which  ends  at  the  Ndnd 
Ghdt.  This  famous  pass  is  a  huge 
staircase  in  a  crack  of  the  precipice 
that  overlooks  the  Konkan,  a  wall  of 
rock  1500  ft.  sheer  up  and  down. 
There  are  several  caves  about  the  head 
of  the  Ghdt.  The  modern  village  of 
GhAtgayh  is  2  m.  off  on  the  flank  of  the 
fort  of  Jiwdhan.  This  is  a  huge  crag 
accessible  by  only  one  path,  which  was 
nearly  destroyed  by  the  English  in 
1818,  but  a  single  man  can  still  climb 
up.  There  is  a  curious  vaulted  maga- 
zine at  the  top.  Jiwdhan  is  one  of 
the  7  forts  of  Junnar,  and  with  ChA- 
wand,  which  was  more  like  a  huge 
broken  pillar  than  a  hill,  Shivaneri 
and  N&rdyangarh  formed  the  S.  line  of 
defence,  while  Nimgorl  and  Harichan- 
dragayh  front  W.  over  the  Konkan. 
^^T.  Sinclair  does  not  mention  the  3rd 


river,  unless  it  be  the  Dudari,  over  the 
head  waters  of  which  he  says  is  the 
Nimgori  fort.  See  the  "  Indian  Anti- 
quary," vol.  it  pp,  10, 12.  In  vol.  vi. 
of  the  "Antiquary,"  p.  33,  is  a  paper  on 
the  Buddhist  caves  at  Jnnnar,  by  Mr. 
Burgess.  He  says  that,  like  those  of 
BhAj4,  Bedsd,  Taldjd,  ShdnA,  and 
Knda,  these  caves  are  remarkably  de- 
void of  figure,  ornament,  or  imagery. 
The  Dahgopa  alone  is  common  to  all. 
The  Ganesha  Fahdr  group  of  caves  is 
about  3  m.  N.E.  of  the  town  and  about 
360  ft.  above  it.  The  ascent  is  partly 
by  a  built  staii*,  which  leads  up  to  the 
front  of  the  Chaitya  which  faces  S., 
and  measures  inside  40  ft.  long  by 
22  ft.  5  wide,  and  24  ft.  2  high.  It 
has  a  verandah  20  ft.  6  long  by  4  ft. 
2  wide,  reached  by  six  steps  with  two 
pillars  and  two  demi-pillars  in  front. 
The  capitals  of  the  pillars  consist  of  an 
abacus  of  3,  4,  or  o  thin,  square  tile- 
shaped  members,  each  projecting  a 
little  over  the  one  below.  Tlie  door 
is  perfectly  plain,  6  ft.  9  wide.  Over 
the  entrance  is  a  well-cut  inscription 
in  one  line,  wliich  Dr.  Kern  translates, 
"  A  pious  gift  of  charity,  designed  for 
the  Sanctuary  by  the  pure-hearted 
SulAsacljila,  trader,  son  of  Haranika." 
The  navo  is  12  ft.  9  wide  and  24  ft.  6^ 
long  lip  to  the  Dahgopa,  limited  on 
either  side  by  5  columns  and  1  demi- 
column  10  ft.  10  high,  like  those  in 
front,  with  lions,  tigers,  or  elephants 
over  the  capitals.  In  the  apse  round 
the  Dahgopa  are  6  plain  octagon  shafts, 
without  base  or  capital,  and  16^  in. 
in  diameter.  The  aisle  behind  the 
pillars  is  3  ft.  6  wide,  and  is  ribbed 
over  like  the  roof  of  the  nave,  in  imi- 
tation of  wooden  ribs.  The  Dahgopa 
is  a  plain  circular  drum  8  ft.  9|  in 
diameter  and  6  ft.  4J  high,  with  a 
Buddhist  railed  cornice,  supporting 
the  dome,  on  which  stands  the  Tor^Tut 
or  capital,  a  square  block  representing 
a  box  ornamented  with  the  Buddhist 
rail-pattern,  surmounted  by  an  abacas 
like  those  of  the  pillars,  the  uppermost 
and  widest  slab  being  5  ft.  10  sq.,  with 
a  hole  in  the  centre  to  support  a  wooden 
umbrella,  and  4  shallow  square  ones  for 
relics ;  the  total  height  of  the  Dahgopa 
is  16  ft.  5,    The  next  cave  to  the  E,  is 


Sect.  11. 


Eoute  21. — Junnar, 


295 


a  Vihdra,  25  ft.  wide,  29  ft.  deep  and 
8  ft.  2  high.  At  the  back  are  3  cells, 
and  on  each  side  2.  Over  the  left 
window  is  an  inscription.  The  next 
cave  is  higher  up,  and  is  a  small  square 
one,  and  the  next  two  are  similar. 
W.  of  the  Chaitja,  a  stair  under  the 
rock  ascends  into  the  largest  Yihiira 
cave  here,  now  called  the  Ganesha 
Lend,  from  an  image  of  Ganesha  hav- 
ing been  set  tip  there.    The  hall  is  50  ft. 

6  by  56  ft.  6  and  10  ft.  2  high.    It  has 

7  cells  on  either  side  and  5  at  the  back. 
Outside  is  a  verandah  7  ft.  wide,  with 
(>  pillars  and  2  half  pillars.     Further 
W.  are  2  cells,  then  a  VihAra  31  ft.  3 
wide  by  23  ft.  2  deep.    The  next  cave 
is  difficult  of  access.    Then  comes  a 
Vihdra  21  ft.  wide,  then  2  other  caves, 
and    then    a    rectangular    flat-roofed 
Chaitya  21  ft.  10  deep,  12  ft.  y  wide, 
and  13  ft.  8  high.    There  is  a  Dahgopa 
6  ft,  11  in  diameter.    On  the  left  of 
the  door  outside  is  an  inscription  in 
two  lines.    After  this  follow  a  cell 
with  a  stone  bed  ;  2  small  rooms  en- 
closing cells,  a  Vihdra  with  2  cells  at 
the  back,  and  5  cisterns,  over  the  first 
of  which  is  an  inscription  in  two  lines, 
and  over  the  second,  one  in  three.  Next 
comes  a  Vihdra  29  ft.  5  deep  and  24  ft. 
3  wide.     It  has  no  cells,  but  a  stone 
bench.  Under  the  left  corner  is  a  well 
with  abundance  of  cool  water.    The 
Mdnmodi  Hill  lies  to  the  S.S.W.  of 
Junnar,   1  m.  W.  of  the  main  road. 
The  first  of  the  most  S.  group  of  caves 
is  a  recess  over  a  cell  or  cistern,  with 
an  inscription  to  the  left.    A  little  to 
the  N.  on  the  left  side  of  a  larger  recess, 
is  another  inscription  in  three  lines ;  the 
first  letters  are  obliterated.    Above  a 
precipice  to  the  N.  are  8  cells.    On 
returning  from  these,  by  scrambling 
along  the  precipice  to  the  S.,  a  small 
Vihdra  without  cells  is  reached.    Then 
another,  with  2  octagonal  columns  and 
2  pilasters  in  front  of  the  verandah. 
The  hall  is  33  ft.  deep,  and  from  11  to 
13  wide.    The  verandah  is  4  ft.  7  wide 
and  19  ft.  10  long.    There  is  a  well  of 
excellent  water.    A  few  yards  S.  of  the 
large  cave  is  a  Vihdra,  with  2  pillars 
and  pilasters  in  the  verandah,  and  other 
caves  almost  inaccessible.     Returning 
to  the  J^,  and  winding  round  the  hill 


to  the  N.W.,  you  come  upon  another 
group,  the  front  of  one  of  which  is 
covered  with  inscriptions,  probably  the 
work  of  visitors  only.     Proceeding  a 
long  way  round  to  the  N.W.  is  an  un- 
finished Chaitya,  of  which  an  imperfect 
sketch  by  Prof.  Orlebar  is  given  by 
Dr.  Bird.    The  great  arch  in  the  facade 
is  high,  and  the  space  over  the  window 
is  divided  into  7  petal-shaped  com- 
partments.   In  the  central  one  is  a 
female  figure,  in  the  next  elephants 
standing  on  lotus  and  holding  water- 
jars.    Over  and  outside  the  jamb  of 
the  great  arch  projects,  and  on  either 
side  of  the  finial  of  the  arch  is  a  figure  ; 
that  on  the  left  has  wings  and  holds  a 
c1ui7inri.    Behind  each  shoulder  of  the 
other  one  are  2  cobra  heads,  with  the 
tongues  hanging  out.    Higher  up  the 
rock  on  the  E.  side  of  this  are  9  cells 
and  a  Vihdra  with  2  cells  at  the  back, 
and  2  on  the  £.  side.    In  a  hill  2  m. 
W.  of  Junnar  are  the  l^uljd  Lend  group, 
so  called  because  in  modern  times  the 
Brdhmans    have    dedicated    them  to 
Tuljd  Devi.    They  face  N.E.,  but  all 
the  facades  have  fallen.     Beginning 
from  the  S.E.  you  come  to  two  sides  of 
a  coll,  then  to  a  small  Vihdra  with 
cells,  then  to  a  Chaitya  of  unique  form, 
circular,  25  ft.  6  across,  with  a  Dahgopa 
8  ft.  2  in  the  centre,  surrounded  by  12 
plain  octagonal  shafts,  11  ft.  4  high, 
supporting  a  lofty  dome.    After  1  or 
2  smaller  caves  you  come  to  a  haU  23  ft. 
wide,  with  a  large  cell  at  the  left 
corner  and  a  seat  round  3  sides.    Below 
the  cells,  towards  the  N.W.  end,  is  a 
tank  with  masonry  walls.    To  the  W. 
of  the  town  is  the  Shivaneri  hill  fort, 
and  going  along  the  E.  face  of  the  hill 
you  come  to  a  cave  facing  E.N.E.    At 
the  S.  end  of  the  upper  scarp  is  a  cave 
with  an  inscription  in  one  line,  and 
further  N.  and  higher  is  a  Vihdra. 
The  Bdra  Kothri  group,  called  from  a 
large  Vihdra  with  12  cells,  can  only  be 
reached  from  the  last  group  by  a  diffi- 
cult and  painful  scramble.      The  Bdi*a 
Kothri  is  3fi  ft.  8  wide  and  33  ft.  5  deep, 
with  4  cells  on  each  side  and  a  bench 
round  all   four.     The  next  is  a  fine 
cave,  a  lofty  flat-roofed  Chaitva  about 
18  ft.  high.    The  inner  hall  is*'30  ft.  1 1 
by  20  ft.  6,  with  a  Dahgopa  10  ft,  3  in 


296 


Rovte  21. — Ndndgaxm  to  Ahmadnagar.  Sect.  II. 


diameter.   Outside  is  an  inscriptioii  in 
3  lines,  which  Dr.  Kern  translates, 
*•  A  pious  gift  of  charity,  designed  for 
the  sanctuary  for  the  common  weal 
and  happiness  by  Virasenaka,  a  dis- 
tinguished   householder,  confessor  of 
the  Dharma."    Four  m.  from  this,  in  a 
spur  of  a  hill  to  the  E.  of  Ganesha 
Lend,  are  caves  at  a  height  of  400  feet 
above  Junnar,  reached  by  a  steep  climb. 
They  have  no  special  feature,  and  are 
over  a  precipice  almost  perpendicu- 
lar, are  really  difficult  of  access,  and 
dangerous  for  any  one  not  having  a 
steady  head.    Dr.  Eem  says  that  the 
inscriptions  are  of  different  dates,  but 
perhaps  200  or  300  years  later  than 
Ashoka,  that  is,  they  are  about  the 
Christian  era.    Although  these  caves 
are  devoid  of  ornament,  they  are  inter- 
esting on  account  of  their  antiquity, 
and  the  locality  in  which  they  are 
situated  is  rich  in  beautiful  scenery. 
The  road  from  Alimadnagar  to  Junnar 
is  rather  longer  than  that  from  Puna, 
but  it  passes  over  a  country  little  visited 
by  Europeans,  and  which  consequently 
presents  attractions  to  the  sportsman. 
At  8  m.  to  the  W.  of  Junnar  is  the 
remarkable  hill  fort  of  Harichandra- 
garh.    It  presents  the  most  stupendous 
precipice  and  most  sublime  scenery  in 
the  whole   range  of   the  W.   Ghdts. 
According  to  Col.  Sykes  the  scarp  is 
3000  ft.  perpendicular,  but  another  au- 
thority makes  the  fort  4000  ft.  above 
the  Eonkan,  which  is  seen  stretched 
out  at  its  foot  like  a  map,  with  the  sea 
glittering  in  the  distance.    The  ascent 
is  extremely  steep.    At  every  turn  the 
most  striking  views  are  seen,  and  as 
the  climber  approaches  the  summit 
tremendous  blasts  of  wind  are  often 
experienced,  which  seem  as  if  they 
would  sweep  every  movable  thing  into 
the  abyss.    The  edge  of  the  precipice 
is   rather   shelving,  and   it   requires 
strong  nerves  to  stand  on  its  tremen- 
dous brink.  At  times  immense  volumes 
of  cloud  and  mist  roll  up  from  below, 
and  there  is  no  little  danger  at  such 
moments  of  taking  a  false  step.    But 
to  fearless  climbers  the  scenery  will 
be  an  ample  reward.     At  one  time 
Government  had  it  under  consideration 
to  make  this  place  a  health  station 


from  Bombay  ;  but  the  difficulty  of 
access  rendered  the  scheme  abortive. 
The  climate,  however,  is  delightfully 
cool  and  refreshing.  With  regard  to 
the  height  of  the  precipice^  it  may  be 
noticed  that  a  stone  takes  11  seconds 
before  striking  for  the  first  time.  A 
notice  of  some  caves  and  temples  near 
this  place  will  be  found  in  the  Jour, 
of  the  Bomb.  As.  Soc.  for  Jan.  1850, 
p.  66,  by  Dr.  Wilson.  Col.  Sykes' 
paper  is  in  the  Jour,  of  the  Roy.  As. 
Soc.,  vol.  iv.  pp.  281-291.  Dr.  Bird's 
"  Caves  of  India,"  p.  11,  may  also  be 
consulted.  The  stages  from  Alimad- 
nagar to  Fund  are  as  follows  : — ' 


From 

To 

M.     F. 

A^madnagar     . 

Supa  . 

Sinir     .        .    . 

Kondhapiir 

Talegdon       .    . 

Koregdou  . 

Loni      . 

SupA 

Sirur   .       .    . 

Kondhapiir 

Talegion  . 

Koregaoil    .    . 

Loni 

Puni  .       .    . 

Total       . 

14    0 
18    0 
13    6 

5  0 

6  0 
8    0 

13    6 

73    4 

After  leaving  Al|imadnagar,  you  pass 
the  large  village  of  Chis  on  the 
left  at  6  m.,  and  Kdrdyan,  with  a 
stone  fort,  between  the  lOth  and 
11th  m.,  also  on  the  left.  At  Koma- 
gdon,  12  m.  fi'om  the  Malle  gate  of 
Alimadnagar,  there  is  a  toll  of  4  dnds. 
At  Supd  the  T.B.  is  on  the  right,  and 
there  is  the  first  change  of  horses. 
There  is  a  steep  GhAt  to  descend  be- 
fore entering  Sup4.  There  are  pretty 
temples  at  Sup4,  and  a  brick  fort  with 
a  high  gateway.  There  is  a  2nd  toll 
at  Warigdon,  not  far  from  Sinir.  In 
order  to  reach  Siriir,  pass  a  bridge 
built  by  Capt.  Sellon,  R.E.,  com- 
menced in  January,  1866,  and  com- 
pleted in  December,  1867,  at  a  cost  of 
Rs.  104,000.  The  whole  length  of  the 
bridge  is  772  ft.  It  has  17  arches, 
each  with  a  diameter  of  39  ft.  5  in.  The 
breadth  of  each  pier  is  6  ft.,  the  height 
from  the  water  level  to  lie  parapet 
wall  is  30  ft.,  and  from  the  water  level 
to  the  keystone  25  ft.,  and  from  the 
land  to  the  end  of  the  parapet  wall  39 
ft.  6  in.    There  is  an  inscription  in 


Sect  IL 


RotUe.  21. — Sirur — Loni. 


297 


Mar^t^i.  Sin!ir  is  the  name  of  the  can- 
tonment onlj.    The  town  is  called  by 
the  natives  Ghodnadi,  from  the  river 
Ghod,  on  the  r.  b.  of  which  it  is  situ- 
ated.   Here  are  still  the  head-quarters 
of  the  Pun^  Auxiliary  Horse,  a  most 
distinguished  cavalry  corps,  who,  in 
Sindh,  Kdbul,  and  the  Panj4b,  have 
done  noble  service.    The  Pun4  Horse 
was  raised  in  1817  ;  the  article  of  the 
Bassin  Treaty,  which  compelled  the 
PeshwA  to  keep  up  cavalry,  was  an- 
nulled, and  this  corps  substituted.   At 
Korig^oii    it  lost  46  kiUed    and  26 
wounded ;  Lieut.  Swanston,  who  com- 
manded, being  among  the  latter.    In 
the  Mardtha  war  it  captured  Chimnaji 
Ap4,  the  Peshw&*8  younger   brother, 
and  Apd  Des&i  and  Trimbakji  D^nglia. 
At  that  time  it  mustered  6000  sabres, 
but    was    reduced  in  1830   to    800. 
Major  Spiller  commanded  200  of  them 
at  the  storm  of  Kittiir  in  1804.    Two 
Daf 'ad&rs  and  42  men  went  with  Major 
Macdonald  to  Persia  in  1826.  In  1828 
Capt.  Spiller  got  the  thanks  of  Govern- 
ment for  the  capture  of  Bom  'All.  The 
same  officer  with  100  troopers  marched 
150  m.  in  3  marches,  and  captured  a 
body  of  banditti.    There  used  to  be  a 
large  force  here,  but  after  the  fall  of 
the  Peshw4  it  was  moved  into  Pun4. 
Col.  Wallace,  who  took  Chdndwad  and 
Jdlnalb  in  1804,  was  worshipped  at  this 
place.    His  tomb  became  a  temple  for 
burning  incense  and  making  vows  and 
prayers.    The  Kev.  R.  Nesbit,  in  Dec. 
1840,  was  told  by  an  intelligent  native 
that  he  had  prayed  to  Col.  Wallace, 
and  that  his  request  had  been  heard 
and  granted. 

There  is  a  large  cemetery  at  Sinir. 
In  the  centre  is  a  pillar  20  ft.  high, 
which  marks  the  tomb  of  Col.  W.  Wal- 
lace, of  H.M.'s  74th  Regt.,  commandant 
of  the  force  subsidized  by  H.H.  the 
Peshwd,  who  died  at  Sinir  on  May  1 1th, 
1809.  There  is  also  a  Mardtha  inscrip- 
tion to  Dina  B4i,  daughter  of  Dhon- 
dhibd  B4pi!i  Mis41,  and  several  other 
Mar^tha  inscriptions  to  Indian  Chris- 
tians. Also  to  J.  C.  Pattinson,  who 
died  at  Sinir  on  Jan.  4th,  1818,  of 
wounds  he  received  at  the  "  ever  me- 
morable defence  of  Korig^n;  by  the 
2nd  battalion  1st  regt.  N.I."  This  offi- 


cer was  a  giant  in  stature,  and  when 
a  gun    was    taken    by   tiie    Arabs, 
although  struck  to  the  earth  by  griev- 
ous wounds,  he  started  up,  seized  a 
musket,  and  dashing  out  the  brains  of 
several  of  the  enemy,  retook  the  gun. 
Sinir  is  a  very  hot  dusty  place,  and 
famous  for  its  scorpions.    In  fact  a 
scorpion  hunt  is  one  of  the  few  amuse- 
ments.   The  native  boys  induce  the 
scorpions  to  issue  from  their  holes  by 
rubbing  short  sticks  together  at  the 
orifices,  and  the  scorpions  fancying  it 
to  be  some  insect,  come  out  and  are 
immediately  caught  with  the  sticks. 
Numbers  of  scorpions  are  killed  by  the 
birds  and  by  the  monkeys,  who  nip  off 
their  stings  and  then  swallow  them. 
The  42nd  milestone  to  Pun&  is  near 
the  T.  B.  at  Sinir.    After  6  m.  you 
pass  the  nice  village  of  Kdregdon.    At 
the  10th  m.  there  is  a  toll  of  4  dn^. 
The  T.  B.  at  Kondhapiir  is  350  yds.  off 
the  main  road  to  the  left.    At  Tale- 
gdon  there  are  some  temples  worth  a 
visit.  The  P^t^'s  family  here  are  rich, 
the  head  of  it  has  more  than  a  Idkh 
income.    It  is  a  flourishing  place,  but 
the  revenue  is  collected  wi&  difficulty. 
The  handsome  Jain  temple  has  just 
beenl  finished.    There  is  an  older  one 
to  Siddheshwar,  with  an  inscription 
dated  Shak  1654.    If  the  roof  is  as- 
cended, it  will  be  seen  that  the  Shikra 
is  curiously  carved  with    figures   of 
deities.    The  place  has  its  name  from 
Tale,    "a    halt,"    as    the     PeshwA's 
troops  used    to  halt  there;  some  of 
them  came  thence  to  the  battle  of 
Korigdoii. 

LmL — This  place  derives  interest 
from  an  able  paper  in  the  Trans.  Lit. 
Soc.  Bomb.,  vol.  iii.  p.  172,  by  Mr. 
Thos.  Coats,  in  which  he  describes  the 
village  system  of  the  Dakhan,  taking 
the  Loni  districts  for  his  sample.  The 
following  extract  from  Mr.  T.  Coats' 
admirable  paper  will  give  a  geneitd 
idea  of  Mard^ha  country  towns  and 
country  life,  but  the  whole  paper  de- 
serves to  be  studied  by  all  who  would 
gain  an  insight  into  the  character  and 
customs  of  the  Mard^ha  nation.  The 
paper  was  written  indeed  on  the  29th 
of  February,  1820,  but  it  is  an  endur- 
ing picture  of  the  manners  of  the  cul- 


298 


Bmite  21. — Ndndgaoh  to  Ahmadnagar,  Sect.  II. 


tivating  classes  of  HiiuliistAn  : — "  The 
town  of  Loni  is  situated  on  a  diy  slope, 
overlooking   its   gardens  and  arable 
lands,  which  extend  to  the  eastward, 
and  afford  a  pleasant  prospect  when 
the  crop  is  on  the  ground.    The  lat.  is 
18'  37'  N.,  and  long.  74'  8'  E,,  and  it 
is  about  12  m.  N.£.  of  Puni,  and  70 
m.  in  a  direct  line  from  the  W.  sea- 
coast,  and  about  1470  ft.  above  its 
level.    At  a  distance  the  town  has  the 
appearance  of  a  mass  of  crumbling 
clay  walls,  with  a  few  stunted  trees 
growing  out  amongst  them,  and  here 
and  there  a  building  like  a  bam  or 
stable  covered  with  red  tiles.      The 
whole  is  surrounded  by  a  mud  wbII  of 
a  circular  form  that  measures  5  fur- 
longs, and    is   from  10  to  14  ft.  in 
height,  and  4  or  o  ft.  thick  at  the  bot- 
tom, and  increasing  (jsie)  towards  the 
top.    It  has  2  rude  gates  10  or  12  ft. 
high,  and  as  many  wide,  made  of  2 
pieces  of  thick  planks  of  teak  wood, 
united  by  cross  beams  let  into  an  eye 
cut  in  a  frame  above,  and  resting  on  a 
hollowed  stone  below,  on  which  they 
turn  instead  of  hinges.    On  entering 
the  town,  appearances  are  not  more 
prepossessing  ;  nothing  meets  the  eye 
but  filth  and  misery,  a  total  neglect  of 
all  regularity,  neatness,  and  comfort ; 
what  seemed  crumbling  clay  walls  are 
the  dwelling-houses  of  a  great  body  of 
the    inhabitants,  made  of    sun-dried 
bricks  of  the  white  calcareous  earth 
that  has  been  described,  with  terraced 
tops  of  the  same  material :  some,  how- 
ever, are  uninhabited  ruins ;  and  some 
have  pieces  of  straw  thatch  thrown  up 
against  them,  to  shelter  some  wretched 
people  and  their  cattle  who  have  not  the 
means  of  getting  better  lodging.    The 
inhabited  dwelling-houses  amount  to 
107  ;  and  the  public  buildings  are  the 
chuwddi  or  town-hall ;  3  Hindii  tem- 
ples, one  dedicated  to  Mah^deo,  one  to 
Hanum^n,  and  the  3rd  to  Bhalrava  ; 
and  a  Mul^ammadan  place  of  worship 
at  present  in  ruins.   The  buildings  are 
put  doiRTi  as  if  "by  chance,  without  any 
attention  to  regularity.  Narrow,  dirty, 
crooked  lanes  wind  through  some  of 
them.    Some  are  in  clusters  of  3  or  4, 
and  others  are  entirely  detached.  The 
houses  are  generally  constructed  as  if 


for  defence,  and  have  an  impression  of 
gloom  and  unsociableness.    The  best 
are  surrounded  by  a  square  dead  wall, 
which  is  entered  by  a  low  door.    Two 
or  three  sides  are  occupied  by  sheds 
for  cattle,  husbandry  implements,  &c., 
and  one  only  by  the  dwelling-house. 
If  a  wall  does  not  enclose  the  whole, 
there  is  a  walled  court  in  front,  or  in 
the  rear,  or  both.    The  houses  have  all 
square  gable-ends,  and  a  sort  of  open 
portico  runs  along  the  front  of  the 
dwelling-house;    the  poorer  employ 
this  to  tie  their  cattle  in,  and  the  richer 
as  a  store-room,  or  keep  it  clean  to  sit 
in.    From  the  centre  of  the  portico  a 
small  door  leads  into  the  body  of  the 
house,  which  is  divided  into  2,  3,  or  4 
small  rooms,  without  any  openings  to 
admit  the  air  and  light ;  at  the  back 
of  which  is  another  open  portico  cor- 
responding with  that  in  front,  which 
commonly  opens  into  a  private  court 
used  by  the  women  for  bathing,  &c. 
This  portico  is  sometimes  open,  at  other 
times  divided  into  rooms  more  or  less 
numerous.    The  rooms  in  the  centre  are 
of  a  good  size.     Some  are  3^  cubits 
broad  and  6  cubits  long  ;  they  are  ge- 
nerally used  for  sleeping-rooms,  and 
the  hottest  and  darkest  are  chosen  for 
child-bed  women  and  the  sick  of  the 
family.    A  good  terraced  house,  for  a 
cultivator  and  6  or  8  bullocks,  will  be 
30  cubits  long  and  20  wide.  The  walls, 
built  of  sun-dried  bricks,  are  5  cubits 
high ;  the  doors  are  3  cubits  high  and 
1 J  wide  ;  the  roof  is  formed  by  small 
beams  of  wood,  a  span  asunder,  laid 
across   the  room;    and  across  these 
pieces  of  plank  are  laid,  and  on  this 
chips,  and  the  whole  is  covered  with 
8  or  10  inches  of  terrace,  made  of 
white  earth,  so  as  to  give  a  light  slope, 
which  effectually  keeps  out  ordinary 
rain ;  and,  if  the  wood  is  good,  will 
last  50  or  60  years.  When  grass  grows 
on  this  terrace,  it  must  be  removed 
from  time  to  lime,  otherwise  the  roots 
give  admission  to  the  wet,  and  occa- 
sion it  to  leak.    A  house  of  t^s  de- 
scription will  cost  300  rupees.  Two  or 
three  houses  have  upper  stories,  but 
they  are  the  property  of  some  families 
who  formerly  inherited  a  portion  of 
the  Government  revenues  of  the  vil* 


Sect.  II. 


Route  21. — Lonu 


299 


lage,  and  had  a  horse  in  the  service  of 
GoYemment;   these  houses  probably 
cost  abont  1000  rupees.   The  houses  of 
the  poorest  inhabitants  are  not  more 
than  10  or  12  ft.  long,  4  or  5  ft.  wide, 
and  covered  with  grass,  and  cost  20  or 
30  rupees ;   they  have  square  gable- 
ends,  which  also  is  the  form  of  all  the 
houses.    The  outcasts,  till  lately,  occu- 
pied a  place  by  themselves  outside  the 
wall,  and,  as  usual,  on  the  E. ;  but,  in 
consequence  of  their  houses  having 
been  destroyed  during  the  late  cam- 
paign, they  have  been  permitted  to 
construct  some  temporary  places  with- 
in the  wall.  The  c?iawadi  or  town-hall, 
where  the  public  business  of  the  town- 
ship is  transacted,  is  a  building  30  ft. 
square,  with  square  gable-ends  and  a 
roof  of  tiles  supported  on  a  treble  row 
of  square  wooden  posts  ;  it  cost  about 
250  rupees,  which  was  paid  out  of  the 
Government  revenues  of  the  village. 
Travellers  put  up  here,  and  the  Go- 
vernment messengers ;  a  comer  of  it 
at  present  is  occupied  by  the  koli  or 
water-carrier.  The  temple  of  Mah^eo 
is  built  of  hewn  stone  and  lime,  with 
a  terraced  roof  of  the  same  materials. 
It  is  about  16  ft.  wide  and  10  ft.  long, 
and  is  divided  into  2  parts.  The  front, 
which  is  to  the  E.,  is  a  small  portico, 
entered  by  3  pointed  arches  ;  and  the 
back  part,  which  is  entered  from  the 
portico  by  a  small  door,  is  the  sanc- 
tum, and  contains  the  linff  and  sU- 
vanka.     This  temple  was  built  about 
18  years  ago  by  Eswant  Bdo  Sindhia, 
a  relation  of  the  present  pk^il,  in  the 
hope  probably  of  covering  some  of  his 
sins.  He  was  employed  for  many  years 
as  a  sildd^  in  Sindhia*s  service,  and 
made  a  great  deal  of  money.     The 
temple  of  Hanumdn  is  a  building  26  ft. 
square,  with  a  flat  roof,  terraced  with 
white  earth,  open  in  front,  supported 
on  rows  of  wooden  posts.    The  figure 
of  the  idol  is  placed  against  the  back 
of  the  wall  in  a  little  niche  facing  the 
front :  it  is  a  rude  imitation  of  a  mon- 
key covered  with  cinnabar.   This  tem- 
ple, as  well  as  all  the  others,  is  used  as 
a  lodging  for  travellers.    The  temple 
was  built  at  the  expense  of  the  village, 
and  cost  about  200  rupees.    The  tem- 
ple of  Bhairava  is  a  tiled  building, 


open  in  front,  and  meanly  constructed, 
l^e  idols  are  those  of  Bhairava  and 
his  wife  Joglshwari,  so  disfigured  by 
the  oil  and  cinnabar  that  have  been 
thrown  over  them,  as  to  have  no  traces 
of  features.  This  idol  is  famed  for  pre- 
serving persons  and  cattle  bitten  by 
snakes.    It  is  said  many  such  patients 
have  been  brought  to  this  temple,  and 
have  all  recovered.     The  nlm  tree, 
which  is  used  against  snake  bites,  is 
not  permitted  to  grow  within  the  walls 
of  the  village  by  Bhairava,  as  he  takes 
all  such  patients  under  his  own  care. 
The  building  cost  about  125  rupees. 
The  Mu^ammadan  place  of  worsMp  is 
10  cubits  long  and  5  wide  ;  but  at  pre- 
sent only  the  bare  walls  are  standing. 
The  township  contains  568  inhabitants, 
with  an  extent  of  land  equal  to  abont 
6}  sq.  m.,  which  gives  rather  more  than 
981  persons  to  the  sq.  m.  The  number 
of  houses  is  107,  in  a  few  of  which  are 
more  than  one  family ;  and  the  pro- 
portion of  persons  to  each  house  is  ra- 
ther more  than  5.    There  are  130  mar- 
ried men,  11  or  12  of  whom  have  2 
wives ;  and  the  total  number  of  chil- 
dren is  203,  which  gives  only  1 J  to  each 
family.    The  lands  of  the  township 
embrace  a  circumference  of  nearly  9 
m.,  comprising  3669  acres,  or  about  5} 
sq.  m.,  of  which  1955  acres,  or  2410 
blgas  of  3926|  sq.  yds.  are  arable,  and 
the  rest  is  common,  and  appropriated 
as  pasturage.  The  boundary  is  marked 
merely  by  heaps  of  stones,  unploughed 
ridges,  &c.,  and  is  not  apparent  to  an 
indifferent  person ;  but  it  is  well  known 
to  the  community,  and  watched  with 
the  utmost   jealousy.     The  common 
land  is  situated  to  the  W.N.W.  and 
S.W.;    generally  elevated,  rising   in 
some  places  into  hillocks,  showing  the 
bare  rock  ;  in  others  it  is  undulating, 
with  hollows  opening  to  the  E.,  which 
carry  off  the  water  in  the  rainy  season ; 
and  the  whole  is  more  or  less  thickly 
strewed  with  stones,  from  the  weight 
of  a  few  ounces  to  as  many  hundredr 
weights.    The  soil  here  is  in  no  place 
more  than  a  few  inches  deep,  under 
which  is  generally  a  layer  of  soft  de- 
caying, slimy  substance,  covering  a 
stratum  of  hard  basaltic  rock.  It  yields 
a  scanty  covering  of  grass  in  the  hot 


300 


t 

^bute  21. — Ndndgdon  to  Ahmadnagar,  Sect.  II. 


aad  coicT  season,  and  is  interspersed 
with  stunted  shrubs  and  some  wild 
vines.  The  arable  land  lies  chiefly  to 
the  £.,  the  surface  of  which  is  more 
level,  and  slopes  gentlj  towards  the 
Bhima,  which  it  approaches  within  a 
mile  ;  and  the  soil  is  in  some  places  6 
or  7  cubits  deep,  and  everywhere  suffi- 
ciently so  for  all  the  purposes  of  till- 
age, and  is  rich  and  productive.  A 
highway  leads  through  the  grounds 
from  E.  to  W. ;  and  they  are  besides 
intersected  by  ;roads,  or  rather  foot- 
paths, which  are  not  confined  by  any 
Doundary,  except  where  they  cross 
fields  while  under  cultivation.  At  these 
times  a  few  thorns  are  temporarily 
stuck  in  on  each  side  of  the  paUi ;  and, 
as  there  are  no  regulations  for  making 
or  repairing  roads,  they  are  therefore 
seldom  practicable  for  wheel-carriages, 
and  are  never  straight,  but  wind  to 
avoid  difficult  places,  and  are  often 
only  known  by  the  uncertain  track  of 
cattle  and  travellers.  Some  sm^l 
streams  from  the  high  grounds  unite, 
and  form  a  brook,  which  runs  E.  past 
the  town  and  through  the  arable  land 
to  the  Bhima.  It  generally  ceases  to 
run  for  a  month  or  two  before  the 
commencement  of  the  rains ;  but  wa- 
ter is  always  got  by  digging  a  foot  or 
two  in  a  sandy  bed.  There  are  25 
wells,  said  to  be  3  fathoms  deep,  and 
the  water  within  a  few  feet  of  the  sur- 
face, 10  of  which  are  at  present  in  use, 
and  applied  to  purposes  of  irrigation, 
and  the  others  are  neglected  from  the 
poverty  of  their  owners.  The  water  of 
the  brook  is  alone  used  for  drinking  ; 
that  from  the  wells  is  considered  better 
and  was  formerly  preferred,  but  it  has 
been  disused  for  some  years,  as  it  was 
thought  to  occasion  guinea-worm,  a 
complaint  formerly  common  and  now 
said  not  to  be  so.  A  few  hedges  of 
Euphorbia,  or  evergreen,  partially 
enclose  some  garden  ground  a  little  to 
the  right  and  left  of  the  town,  which 
also  contain  some  fine  trees — mango, 
tamarind,  jujube,  mimosa,  and  Indian 
fig — ^that  give  a  somewhat  picturesque 
appearance  throughout  the  year  to 
those  spots.  The  rest  of  the  lands  are 
wholly  without  enclosures,  so  that  after 
the  crops  have  been  reaped — that  is, 


from  February  till  the  end  of  June — 
the  whole  has  a  most  dreary  aspect, 
and  presents  nothing  to  the  imagina- 
tion but  barrenness  and  neglect.  The 
prospect,  however,  is  different  during 
the  other  months.  In  the  beginning 
of  July  the  young  com,  that  had  been 
sown  by  the  driU,  appears  in  rows  on 
the  level  and  nicely  cleaned  fields. 
The  brown  waste  suddenly  gets  a  tinge 
of  green,  and  the  successive  hot  and 
cold  weather  crops,  and  the  necessary 
operations  of  husbandry,  give  an  ap- 
pearance of  cheerfulness  and  industry, 
until  the  approach  of  the  hot  season  in 
March,  that  is  highly  interesting." 

The  description  given  of  the  village 
economy  by  Mr.  Coats,  may  be  com- 
pared with  that  in  the  Oriental 
Oiristian  Spectator  for  June,  1845,  p. 
183,  and  may  be  condensed  as  follows : 
The  head  man  of  the  village  is  the 
pafil^  who  has  charge  of  the  revenue 
and  police  duties.  Sometimes  two  per- 
sons share  the  p&iiVg  office,  in  which 
case  one  takes  care  of  the  police, 
while  the  other  is  called  away  bv  reve- 
nue matters.  The  police,  pa^il  or 
hdrbhdrif  receives  a  warrant  from  the 
magistrate  of  the  zil'a,  empowering 
him  to  superintend  the  village  watch- 
men, to  prevent  and  trace  robberies,  to 
punish  slight  misdemeanours  by  a  few 
hours*  detention  in  the  village  chd/ivadi, 
and  to  forward  weightier  cases  to  the 
district  police  officer.  The  revenue 
pa  fit  has  no  warrant,  nor  are  his 
duties  specified,  though  they  are  well 
defined  by  immemorial  custom.  He 
has  to  aid  in  bringing  waste  land 
under  cultivation,  in  estimating  the 
value  of  crops  when  remissions  of  rent 
are  applied  for,  and  in  collecting  and 
forwarding  revenue  to  the  mdnUat' 
ddr,  or  district  revenue  officer.  For 
the  discharge  of  the  above  duties,  a 
percentage  on  the  village  revenue  is 
allowed,  and  a  piece  of  land,  rent  free, 
as  also  fees  in  grain  and  straw,  called 
ghujj/riy  from  every  ghatkuli  field,  or 
field  to  the  cultivation  of  which  no 
villager  has  an  exclusive  right.  Under 
native  rule  the  pdfiU  had  fees  called 
bdbi  and  watreal^  the  first  being  betel, 
tobacco,  vegetables,  etc.,  for  their  per- 
sonal requirements,  furnished  by  the 


Sect.  II. 


Soute  21. — Zoni. 


301 


vendors  in  the  village  ;  the  second, 
money  payments  from  merchants  who 
put  up  in  the  village.  These  have  been 
abolisned  by  the  English  Government ; 
but  the  pd(il  still  enjoys  certain  hono- 
rary distinctions.  When  the  yearly 
settlement  of  revenue  takes  place,  on 
presenting  a  rupiyah,  he  receives  a  tur- 
ban and  bstel  txun  the  settlement  offi- 
cer. Every  married  couple  presenthim 
with  betel  and  invite  him  to  dinner.  At 
the  holt  he  sets  fire  to  the  holi ;  he  leads 
the  procession  at  the  festival  of  Siral 
Shetland  his  bullocks  lead  the  cattle  at 
the  feast  of  Pol4  on  the  new  moon  of 
Shrdvan  or  Bh&drpad,  when  all  the 
cattle  are  exempted  from  labour,  deco- 
rated, and  worshipped.  These  distinc- 
tions are  called  manpan^  and  are  most 
highly  valued.  Next  to  the  p&fil,  who 
can  seldom  read  or  write,  is  the  Itu]- 
Jtarni,  or  "  accountant,"  who  assists  the 
patil  in  all  his  duties,  writes  the  police 
and  revenue  reports,  and  keeps  a  day- 
book and  ledger  of  all  monies  received 
on  account  of  rent.  He  is  paid  in  the 
same  way  as  the  pdfilj  but  his  emolu- 
ments are  of  course  less.  The  ImlJtarnii 
are  Br&hmans,  and  though  nominally 
inferior  to  thepd^iU,  arrogate  to  them- 
selves more  imporiance,  as  being  of  a 
superior  caste  to  the  latter,  who  are 
Mardthas  and  Shudras.  The  chaugvla 
is  the  next  village  officer,  and  may  be 
regarded  as  the  pdfiFg  deputy.  He 
carries  the  records,  and  sees  that  the 
pdtiVs  directions  are  carried  out.  He 
has  a  small  payment  from  Government, 
and  ghvffhri^  in  fees,  from  the  cultiva- 
tors. The  hahftaddrs  come  next,  and 
are  generally  12,  divided  into  3  o\i,  or 
*•'  classes."  They  are  remunerated  by  ha- 
hrten,  i.^.,  a  share  of  the  gross  produce 
of  the  village  fields.  In  the  1st  class  are 
the  sntdr  or  "  carpenter,"  tlie  lohdr  or 
"blacksmith,"  the  Udmhdr  or  "cob- 
bler," and  the  mdhAr  or  "  messenger." 
In  the  2nd  class  are  the  mang  or  "  sca- 
venger," the  pari^  or  "  washerman," 
the  ndhdrvi  or  "  barber,"  and  the  hum- 
hhdr  or  "potter."  To  the  3rd  class 
belong  the  gtirav  or  "  verger,"  the  soTidr 
or  "goldsmith,"  the  muld^  or  "school- 
master," and  the  grdmjan  or  "  village 
astrologer."  The  mdihdr  is  the  bearer 
of  all  reports  from  thepdtil  to  the  dis- 


trict officer,  and  of  all  revenue  collec- 
tions, when  the  pdtil  proceeds  with 
them  to  the  district  treasury.  He  as- 
sembles the  cultivators  when  required 
for  payment  of  revenue,  or  to  hear  a 
Government  notice.  He  attends  tra- 
vellers, guides  them  to  the  next  village, 
and  carries  any  loads  for  a  small  sum. 
He  removes  dead  cattle  from  the  stalls 
of  the  cultivators,  and  gives  their  skins 
to  the  owners  if  they  bo  mirdsddrs  or 
"  hereditary  proprietors."  Otherwise, 
he  keeps  the  skins  himself ;  but  in  all 
cases  appropriates  the  flesh.  He  sweeps 
the  spaice  in  front  of  the  village  (rMn'a^t 
every  morning,  and  that  in  tront  of  the 
district  kacheri,  if  there  be  one.  In 
fact,  he  performs  all  the  works  which 
would  prevent  the  cultivators  from  at- 
tending to  their  fields.  Low  cunning 
and  foul  wit  are  the  characteristics  of 
the  mahdr.  He  practises  his  cunning 
on  every  traveller,  but  attempts  to  be 
witty  only  among  his  companions.  He 
prides  himself  on  his  honesty ;  and 
though  he  has  ample  opportunities  of 
absconding  with  money,  when  convey- 
ing therevenue  collections  to  the  district 
Itacherij  no  attempt  to  rob,  much  less  an 
actual  theft  by  a  mahdr,  has  ever  been 
discovered.  He  is  eager  for  knowledge, 
and  is  much  respected  by  his  own  caste, 
if  he  acquire  it.  He  is  passionately 
fond  of  dress,  and  tries  much  to  look 
respectable,  but  is  sure  to  be  detected 
by  his  speech,  if  rot  by  his  appearance. 
He  is  not  generally  anxious  to  conceal 
his  descent,  however,  except  when  ab- 
sent from  his  own  village.  The  mahdr 
women  are  more  ignorant  and  degraded 
than  other  females,  and  polygamy  is 
indulged  in  by  the  males  to  an  extent 
that  would  hardly  be  tolerated  among 
other  castes.  The  huts  of  the  mahdrs 
are  always  without  the  village  walls, 
and  are  disgustingly  filthy  and 
wretched.  They  may  be  known  by  the 
bones  of  animals  strewn  around  them, 
and  the  numbers  of  children  who  swarm 
out  on  the  heaps  of  filth  to  stare  at  a 
stranger.  The  m^ihdrg  use  a  peculiar 
salutation,  which  is  johdr,  Ut.,  "  O 
warrior  ! "  The  principal  duty  of  the 
mAng  is  to  make  ropos  for  the  cultiva- 
tors, who  cannot  touch  the  raw  bide  of 
which  they  are  sometimes  made.     Be- 


302 


Houte  21. — Ndndgdok  to  Ahmadnagar,  Sect.  11. 


Bides  his  halvteiiy  the  indng  has  the 
sweepings  of  the  klmlen  or  **  threshing 
floor.  This  is  a  very  degraded  caste, 
and  one  not  suffered  to  live  within  the 
village  walls.  Even  the  mahar  is  above 
coming  in  contact  with  a  mdng,  and -to 
call  a  person  *'  a  son  of  a  mdng,^''  is  the 
grossest  abase.  The  salutation  uded  by 
the  mdng  is  luiydt  or  "  life,"  ix^  "Live 
long  1 "  The  duty  of  the  gv/rav  is  to 
sweep  the  temples  and  wash  and  anoint 
the  idols  daily.  For  this,  besides  his 
baluten,  he  appropriates  all  the  offer- 
ings made  to  the  idols.  If  the  village 
be  large,  he  usually  attaches  himself  to 
the  most  popular  idol,  leaving  the  care 
of  the  rest  to  volunteers,  who  are  never 
wanting  in  this  service.  The  astro- 
loger prepares  the  Hindii  almanac, 
and  gives  notice  of  fasts,  festivals, 
eclipses,  &;c.,  as  also  of  the  muhurttaj 
or  '*  auspicious  moment "  for  plough- 
ing, sowing,  marrying,  &c.  He  offici- 
ates as  priest  at  marriages  and  all 
religious  ceremonies.  Besides  his  ba- 
luteuf  he  gets  a  fee  for  every  specific 
service.  In  the  month  Shr&van  he 
makes  a  rich  harvest,  for  then  all  per- 
sons perform  the  ceremony  of  tirth 
every  Monday  before  breeding  their 
fast.  This  ceremony  consists  in  drink- 
ing a  little  o£  the  water  in  which  the 
great  toe  of  the  astrologer  has  been 
dipped,  which  is  thought  to  purify 
from  sin.  and  a,2faisd  is  the  least  that 
can  be  offered  as  a  fee.  The  muldnd 
is  the  only  Muhammadan  village  officer. 
He  is  the  butcher,  and  no  animal  is 
eaten  by  the  villagers  unless  slaughtered 
by  him.  Besides  his  hahtten^  he  gets 
a  portion  of  each  animal  slaughtered. 
He  keeps  the  village  moijid  or 
"  mosque  "  clean,  and  makes  the  tdhiU 
ior  the  procession  at  the  Mu]^arram. 
The  next  class  of  village  officers  are  the 
alutaddrgj  a  term  aUiteratively  formed 
from  balutaddr.  These  are  the  rdmosi 
or  "  watchman,"  the  wesha/r  or  "  gate- 
keeper," the  holi  or  "  waterman,"  the 
hyrm  or  Muhammadan  "  messenger," 
and  the  ndihvddi  or  Hindii  "  messen- 
ger," the  tduiboli  or  **  betel-man,"  the 
md]i  mhetri  or  "  head  gardener,"  the 
mafhpati  or  '*  host  of  the  'iangamg^'^ 
the  fJiakar  or  "bard,"  and  the  holdr 
or    *' musician."     The  caste  of    the 


rdnws-U   has    been    already  noticed. 
As  a  professional  thief  the  rdmosi  is 
much  ddspised,  and  is  not  suffered  to 
live  within  the  walls.    He  is  respon- 
sible for  all  thefts  committed  at  night, 
and  must  either  make  good  the  loss  or 
trace  the  thief.    He  receives  from  Gro- 
vemment  a  money  payment,  or  land 
rent  free,  or  both.    Besides  his  baluten 
he  has  a  portion  of  grain  from  every 
grain-pit  that  is  opened.    From  the 
shopkeepers  he  gets  tobacco  and  betel, 
and  wa^wal  from  merchants  who  halt 
at  the  village.      He    is    also  always 
invited  to  take  his  food  at  marriages, 
and  is  sometimes  presented  with  a 
turban.      The  weshar  is  by  caste  a 
malidr.    He  conveys  the  orders  of  the 
pdiil  to  the  mahdrs,  and  is  constantly 
seen  at  the  gate  of  the  village  or  of  the 
chdwadl  with  a  long  stick  in  his  hand, 
and  with  a  coarse  blanket,  his  sole  gar- 
ment, wrapped  around  Mm.  The  ko]i 
or  "  waterman,"  brings  water  when  the 
well  or  stream  is  at  a  distance  from  the 
village,  and  supplies  travellers  with 
water.    He  keeps  the  chdwacll  clean, 
and  lights  the  lamp  in  it  eveiy  evening. 
The  Itorbu  and  ndikwddi  attend  on  the 
pd^il  and  his  assistants,  and  carry  all 
messages  which  cannot  be  conveyed  by 
mahdrs.    The  taMoji  supplies  the  cul- 
tivators with  betel  in  the  fields  during 
threshing  time,  for  which  he  gets  grain 
and  straw,  according  to  mutual  agree- 
ment.   The  nidli  mhetri  supplies  the 
villagers  with  vegetables  during  the 
nine  days'  fast  before  the  Dashar4,  and 
gets  food  in  return.    He  also  supplies 
travellers  with  vegetables  on  their  pay- 
ing for  the  same.    The  m4ifhpatij  lit. 
"  lord  of  the  hermitage,"  entei'tains  all 
Jangams  who  visit  the  village  in  his 
m^ifh,  or  "  hut."    In  consideration  of 
this,  he  is  allowed  to  go  about  begging 
with  a  yellow  bag  under  his  arm,  re- 
ceiving alms  in  the  sliape  of  grain  from 
every  housewife.    The  Jangams  adore 
Shiva,  worship  the  lingam,  and  abhor 
Br&hmans.  The  (hdkar  is  a  go-between 
for  families  desirous  of  inter-marriage. 
During  marriages  he  repeats  poetry, 
into  which  the  names  of  the  bride  and 
bridegroom  are  introduced.    The  holdr 
is  of  the  lowest  caste  of  all.    He  is 
cobbler  to  the  mahdrs,  and  performs 


Sect.  II. 


Route  2 1 . — Loni — Korigdoii , 


303 


on  some  instrument  at  marriages,  and 
at  the  threshing-floor  during  t^shing 
time.  His  saJutation  is  pharmdn, 
*^  command  me."  The  balutaddrg  and 
alutaddrs  are  required  to  amuse  the 
people  at  the  Holi,  by  getting  up  what 
is  called  the  Rddha,  The  best-looking 
of  them  is  richly  dressed  as  a  woman, 
and  dances  and  sings  to  another,  who 
represents  her  lover.  This  is  a  repre- 
sentation of  the  loves  of  Kyi^hna  and 
his  favourite  mistress  B4dh&.  They 
also  assist  at  surveys.  The  goldsmith 
carries  the  inkstand,  the  cobbler  pro- 
vides a  pot  of  chv/iuim,  and  plasters 
the  boundary  marks,  the  mamrs  drag 
the  chain,  the  mAngs  dig  holes  where 
the  boundary  stones  are  to  be  placed, 
and  the  rest  place  signals  to  guide  the 
surveyor.  Such  is  the  village  system 
in  its  integrity,  but  it  is  fast  crumbling 
to  pieces,  and  interlopers  are  being  ad- 
mitted on  reduced  payments  to  do  the 
work  of  the  old  officers. 

The  himhU  or  peasants  are  a  frugal 
and  patient  race,  just  in  their  dealings 
vnth  one  another,  but  not  scrupulous 
about   over-reaching  Government    or 
strangers.     They  are  disposed  to  be 
hospitable,  but  extreme  poverty  pre- 
vents their  being  so.  No  one,  however, 
would  be  in  want  of  a  meal  among 
them,  and  they  are  kind  and  polite  to 
strangers  whose  manners  are  not  offen- 
sive.    Only  the  children  of  the  Br  Ah- 
mans  and  richer  kunibis  attend  school, 
so  that  the  majority  cannot  read  or 
write  ;  but  they  are  minutely  informed 
of  everything  that  relates  to  their  own 
calling,  and  many  of  them  have  a  fair 
knowledge  of  the  history  of  their  own 
country.  They  are  low  in  stature,  lean, 
and  small,  the  average  height  being 
5  ft.  4  in.,  and  weight  7  stone  10}  lbs. 
Their  features  are  often  harsh,  and  the 
expression  is  rather  sedate  and  good- 
humoured  than  sharp,  and  is  quite  de- 
void of  any  trace  of  ferocity.    In  a  list 
of  the  oldest  men  and  women,  6  men 
are  stated  to  be  upwards  of  90  and  one 
96,  and  7  females  above  this  age,  one 
beiDg  99.  Their  ordinary  food  is  grain, 
pulse,  greens,  pods,  roots,  and  fruits, 
hot  spices,  oil,  milk,  curds,  and  clarified 
butter  ;  but  they  are  fond  of  the  flesh 
of  wild  hogs  and  of  sheep.    They  are 


not  prohibited  from  drinking  spirits, 
but  it  is  thought  disreputable,  and  ' 
when  they  indulge  they  do  it  by 
stealth.  The  value  of  a  householder's 
whole  furniture  is  about  £2  ;  of  his 
wardrobe, about  £1.18«.  Ingeneralthey 
make  a  wretched  appearance,  wearing 
a  scanty  rag  or  pair  of  drawers,  and 
another  rag  tied  round  the  head.  For 
their  numerous  superstitions  and  ordi- 
nary mode  of  life,  the  paper  above  re- 
ferred to  must  be  consulted. 

Korigdon,  —  This  is  but  a  small 
place,  and  would  be  undeserving  of 
notice,  but  for  the  famous  battle  fought 
at  it.  It  is  situated  on  the  N.  side  of 
the  Bhimi.  On  the  S.  side,  before 
reaching  the  river,  on  the  right  of  the 
road,  is  an  obelisk,  which  marks  the 
spot  where  the  officers  who  fell  in  the 
action  were  buried.  It  was  here  that 
the  PeshwA's  army  encamped,  and 
they  crossed  the  river  to  attack  Capt. 
Staunton's  battalion. 

The  following  is  the  description  of 
this   famous  battle    given  by  Grant 
DufE,  vol.  iii.,  p.  432 :— "  But  when  the 
Peshwd  commenced  his  flight  to  the 
southward,  Colonel  Burr,  hearing  that 
he  meditated  an  attack  on  PunS,  sent 
off  an  express  for  the  2nd  battalion  of 
the  1st  regiment  to  reinforce  himself. 
The  battalion,  on  the  receipt  of  this 
application,  commenced  its  march  from 
Senii'  on  the  last  day  of  the  year,  at  8 
o'clock  in  the  evening.    It  consisted  of 
little  more  than  500  rank  and  file,  and 
was  supported  by  two  6-pottnders,  well 
manned  by  24  Europeans  of  the  Madras 
Artillery,  under  a  sergeant  and  a  lieu- 
tenant.   It  was  also  accompanied  by 
300  of  the  newly  raised  irregular  horse, 
and  the  whole  were  under  the  command 
of  Capt.  Francis  Staunton.    Having 
marched  all  night,  by  10  o'clock  on  the 
morning  of  New  Year's  Day,   1818, 
Capt.    Staunton    reached    the    high 
ground  above  the  village  of  Korig&oii 
on  the  Bhimi,  where  he  beheld  the 
whole  of  the  Mardtha  horse,  consisting 
of  about  25,000,  on  the  opposite  bank 
of  the  river.    He  continued  his  march 
towards  the  bank,  and  the  Peshw4's 
troops  believed  that  he  intended  to 
ford,  but  as  soon  as  he  had  gained 
the  neighbourhood  of  the  village,  he 


304 


Eoute  21. — N^dndff&o'  to  Almadnagar.  Sect.  11. 


immediately  took  post  in  it.   KorigioA 
is  a  moderate  sized    village,  imme- 
diately overhanging   the  steep  bank 
of  the  Bhlmi,  but  owing  to  the  immense 
beds  of  the  Indian  rivers,  which  are 
never  filled,  except  during  the  rains, 
the  channel  occupied  but  a  small  part 
of  the  space  between  the  banks,  so 
that  the  village  was  60  or  60  yards 
from  the  water.    There  is  a  mud  wall 
which,   at   one    time,    probably    sur- 
rounded the  village,  but  is  now  full  of 
large  breaches  on  the  side  next  the 
river,  and  on  the  E.  it  is  completely 
open.    Most  of  the  Peshwa's  infantry, 
in  number  about  5000,  had  gone  on  in 
advance  to  the  Bhor  Gh4t  E.  of  Pun  A ; 
but  on  first  descrying  the  battalion, 
immediate  orders  were  sent  to  recall 
them.  As  soon  as  they  arrived,  3  bodies 
of  600  choice  men  each,  Arabs,  GosAlns, 
and  regular  infantry  mixed  together, 
advanced  on  ^  different  points,  under 
cover  of  the  bank  of  the  river,  sup- 
ported by  two  guns,  to  storm  the  vil- 
lage.   A  continued  shower  of  rockets 
was  at  the  same  time  poured  into  it, 
and  many  of  the  houses  were  set  on 
fire.    Captain  Staunton  had  selected  a 
commanding  position  for  the  guns ; 
but,  unfortunately,  the  interior  of  the 
village  was    not    sufficiently  recon- 
noitered,  as  there  was  a  strong  square 
inclosurc    commanding  most   of   the 
streets,  of  which  the  enemy  obtained 
possession,  and  whence  they  could  not 
be  dislodged.    The  village  was  imme- 
diately surrounded  by  horse  and  foot, 
and  the  storming  party  was  supported 
by  fresh  troops.     All  access  to  the 
river  was  speedily  cut  off,   Captain 
Staunton  was  destitute  of  provisions, 
and  this  detachment,  already  fatigued 
from  want  of  rest  and  a  long  night 
march,  now  under  a  burning  sun  with- 
out food  or  water,  began  a  struggle  as 
trying  as  ever  was  maintained  by  the 
British    in    India.        Every    foot  of 
ground  was  disputed,  several  streets 
were  taken   and    retaken,  but  moi-e 
than  half  the  European  officers  being 
wounded,  the  Arabs  drove  in  our  out- 
post,   and  attacked   the    dhannsdld, 
and  after  an  obstinate  stru^le  cap- 
tured it,  killing  Assist.- Surg.  Wingate, 
but  were  driven  out  again  by  Captain 


Staunton  and  Lieut.  Jones.    N.  of  the 
dharmsdld  and  160  yds.  from  it  were 
2  eminences,  one  close  to  the  river  and 
one  70  yds.  east  of  it.  These  have  been 
cut  down  by  the  villagers  since  the 
battle,  but  were  then  much  higher. 
On  each  of  these  Capt.  Staunton,  our 
commandant,  placed  a   gun.    Lieut. 
Chisholm,  the  artillery  officer,  being 
killed,  the  Arabs  captured  the  gun  to 
the  E.,  and  it  was  then  that  Lieut.  Pat- 
tinson,*  adjutant    of    the    battalion, 
lying  mortally  wounded,  being  shot 
through  the  body,  no  sooner  heaM  that 
the  gun  was  taken  than  he  started  up 
and  called  to  the  Grenadiers  once  more 
to  follow  him,  and  seizing  a  musket  by 
the  muzzle  rushed  into  the  middle  of 
the  Arabs,  striking  them  down  right 
and  left  until  a  second  ball  through  his 
body  completely  disabled  him.  He  was 
nobly  seconded  by  the  SlpAhls,  and  the 
gun  was  recaptured,  the  dead  Arabs 
literally  lying  above  each  other,  prov- 
ing how  desperately  it  had  been  de- 
fended.   At  this  time  Capt.  Staunton, 
Lieut.  Jones,  and  Assist.-SurgeonWyUie 
were  the  only  officers  left  unwounded, 
and  the  soldiers  were    frantic  with 
thirst,  as  the  enemy  kept  them  from 
getting  water.    The  defence,  however 
was  heroically  maintained,  and  at  9 
o'clock  the  firing  ceased,  and  the  Pesh- 
wA*s   troops  evacuated  the  village." 
The  PeshwA's  army  consisted  of  26,000 
men,  but  they  were  repulsed  with  the 
loss  of  as  many  men  as  those  who 
formed  the  whole  English  force.    For 
this  glorious  battle  the  native  regt. 
was  made  grenadiers,  and  have  ever 
since  carried  Korigaoii  on  their  flag. 
At  the  eminence  near  the  river  is  a 
round  stone  tomb,  where  the  artillery- 
men killed  in  the  action  were  buried. 
At  this  point  the  river  is  crossed,  and 
300  yds.  to  the  left  of  the  PunA  road 
on  the  opposite  bank  is  an  obelisk 
65  ft.  high,  of  which  25  ft.  is  pediment, 


*  Lieut.  Pattinson  was  a  very  powerftil 
man,  and  6  feet  7  inches  in  height ;  nothing 
could  exceed  his  heroic  conduct  on  the 
memorable  occasion  where  he  received  his 
wounds ;  he  did  not  expire  until  the  regiment 
reached  Senir,  but  unfortunately,  in  his  last 
moments,  he  laboured  under  an  impression 
that  his  corps  had  been  defeated,  which 
caused  him  great  distress. 


Sect.  11.        Eoute  22. — KhandwaU  to  Indur  and  Mdim, 


305 


and  this  pediment  is  12  ft.  8  in.  sq.  It 
stands  on  a  stone  platform  32  ft.  4  in. 
sq.  The  obelisk  is  of  polished  hard 
stone,  and  is  Inclosed  with  a  stone  wall 
6  ft.  high  on  3  sides,  and  an  iron  rail- 
ing with  a  handsome  iron  gate  and  2 
lamps  on  the  W.  side.  The  inscription 
on  the  W.  side  is  given  below,  that  on 
the  S.  side  is  in  Mardthl,  as  is  that  on 
the  N.  side.  The  inscription  on  the  N. 
and  E.  sides  gives  the  names  of  the 
English  killed  and  wounded,  and  of  4 
Indians  who  were  attached  to  the  ar- 
tillery and  were  killed,  from  which  it 
appears  that  of  the  8  officers  engaged 
3  were  killed  and  2  wounded,  and  of 
the  20  English  artillerymen  11  were 
killed. 

INSCBIPTION  ON  OBELISK. 

This  Column 

is  erected  to  commemorate  the  defence  of 

(Coregaum)  Korigion, 

by  a  Detachment   commanded  by   Captain 

Staunton  of  the  Bombay  Establishment, 
which  was  surrounded  on  the  Ist  of  January, 

1818, 

by  the  Peshw&'s  whole  army  under  his 

personal  command, 

and  withstood  throughout  tlie  day  a  series  of 

.  most  obstinate 

and  sanguinary  assaults  of  his  best  troops. 

CAPTAIN    STAUNTON, 
under  the  most  appalling  circumstances, 

persevered  in  his  desperate  resistance, 
and,  seconded  by  the  unconquerable  spirit  of 

his  Detachment. 

at  length  achieved  the  signal  discomfiture  of 

the  Enemy, 

and  accomplished  one  of  the  proudest 

triumphs 

of  the  British  Army  in  the  East. 

To  peii>etuate 

the  Memory  of  the  brave  troops 

to  whose  heroic  firmness  and  devotion  it  owes 

the  glory  of  that  day, 

the  British  Crovemment 

has  directed  the  names  of  their  Corps  and  of 

the  killed  and  wounded 

to  be  inscribed  on  this  Monument 

MDOCCXXII. 


ROUTE    22. 

KHANDWAH  TO  INDUB  AND  MAHU. 

The  Holkar  State  Railway  was  made 
at  the  expense  of  H.H.  the  Mah&rdjd, 
G.C.S.I.  The  gauge  is  the  French 
metre  of  3ft.  3g. 


«>  O  C! 


stations. 


At  Ajanti 
the  station 
is  on  the 
left,  and  at 
A'tar  on 
the  right. 
At  Choral 
C  h  a  u  k  1 
also  the 
station  is 
on      the 

right.     There  ai-e  tigers  in  the  jungle  alon 
this  road,  and  bears  are  very  numerous. 


Khandwah . 
Ajanti    . 
A'tar  . 

Khe4i     . 
Sonawad    . 
Ba4wdi  . 
Balwada    . 
Choral  Chauki 
Indur 


. 

«5 

1 

+a 

H 

SO 

1-1 

H.  M.  R.A. 

10.10 

10.40 

0  8 

11.26  1  0 

12.  8  1  8 

12.39  2  0 

1.13  2  8 

1.56  3  0 

2.26,  3  8 

t 

Remarks. 


The  line  runs  through  low  jungle 
and  long  spear-grass,  which  is  very 
troublesome  to  pedestrians,  the  sharp 
blades  running  into  the  flesh  like  steel. 
At  Mortakka,  between  Sond.wad  and 
Badwdi,  and  at  3f  m.  from  the  former 
place,  is  the  Holkar  NirbadA  bridge, 
2800  ft.  long,  with  14  spans  of  200  ft. 
each.  The  height  of  the  roadway  from 
the  water  in  the  dry  season  is'  8.5  ft. 
The  river  rises  in  the  rains  ^  ft.  The 
bridge  was  commenced  in  November, 
1872,  and  opened  by  H.H.  the  Mahd- 
rdjA  Holkar  on  the  5th  of  October, 
1876.  The  piers  rest  on  rock.  The 
total  rise  from  Choral  to  the  plateau 
on  which  Indiir  is  situated  is  1200  ft., 
and  the  steepest  gradient  is  1  in  40. 
Its  cost  was  £170,000.  From  Choral 
to  Indi!ir  there  is  an  excellent  road. 
There  is  a  small  stream  at  Choral 
about  20  yds.  broad.  If  you  go  by 
road  from  thence  you  ascend  a  Ghdt 
5  m.  long.  There  is  a  Chauki,  and  J  m. 
on  the  village  of  Simrol.  From  Simrol 
it  is  14  m.  to  Indiir,  and  there  are 
stones  at  every  J  m.  The  road  is 
broad,  and  dusty.  A  long,  high  hill 
nearest  Indiir  is  called  Kdld  Mandil, 


[Somhay—lSSO. 


306 


EoiUe  22,'^EhandtmIh  to  IndUr  and  Mdhu.       Sect.  II. 


and  here  H.H.  has  a  tiger  park  and 
a  shooting-boXy  but  only  4  or  6  tigers 
are  killed  a  year. 

Indur  is  a  city  of  nearly  100,000  in- 
habitants. It  is  6  m.  in  circumference. 
The  T.  B.  is  on  the  E.  side  of  the 
town.,  not  quite  )  m.  from  its  outskirts. 
The  palace  of  the  Mah^aj4  is  situated 
almost  in  the  centre  of  the  city.  It  faces 
E.  and  is  in  a  small  square,  with  the  Go- 
pAl  Manddr  to  the  S.,which  was  built  by 
kri^hn^  B&i,  H.H.'s  mother.  Under 
the  wall  is  a  cage  with  a  very  large 
tiger,  which  was  caught  as  a  cub  here 
17  ^ears  ago.  He  is  so  tame  that, 
having  one  day  escaped,  his  attendant 
led  him  back  to  the  cage  by  his  chain. 
To  the  W.  of  the  palace  is  the  Saxdf  a 
Street,  where  the  money-lenders, 
chiefly  Mdrwddis,  live.  Close  by  is 
the  Haldi  Bdzdr,  where  the  dealers  in 
opium  live,  and  the  Itw4r,  or  Sunday 
Street,  where  a  market  is  held  on  Sun- 
days. At  the  end  of  this  is  the  old 
jaU,  where  are  over  300  male  priso- 
ners. Female  convicts  are  kept  in  a 
separate  jail  a  long  way  off.  There 
are  only  about  30  of  these.  The  jail  is 
very  healthy,  and  when  the  cholera 
was  severe  in  the  town,  no  case  oc- 
curred in  the  jail.  A  new  jail  is  to  be 
built  in  the  E.  part  of  the  town.  The 
palace  is  a  very  lofty  building,  coloured 
blue.  H.H.  sometimes  receives  guests 
in  the  Ldl  Bdgh,  which  is  on  the 
banks  of  the  nver,  and  contains  a 
handsome  villa  called  the  Bdrahdari. 
At  one  end  is  a  house  where  several 
lions  are  kept,  and  there  is  also  an 
aviary.  This  garden  was  laid  out  by 
a  Mr.  Harvey,  who  died  in  H.H.'s 
service.  In  an  upper  room  in  the 
Bdrahdari  are  portraits  of  H.H.  Hol- 
kar,  of  Shambar  Singh  and  Swarup 
Singh  of  Udepiir,  of  Mahdddji  Sin- 
dhia,  Banjit,  and  many  other  Hindii 
B^jds.  In  the  lower  story  is  a  hand- 
some hall  of  audience,  which  looks 
out  on  a  Ghdt  and  on  the  Eahan  river, 
across  which  is  an  embankment,  so 
that  there  is  plenty  of  water.  From 
the  terraced  roof  is  a  fine  view 
over  the  country.  The  Kahan,  or 
Kahna,  river  divides  the  city.  The 
old  capital  of  the  Holkar  family  was 
Maheshvara  in  Nemada,  or  NimAr,  on 


the  banks  of  the  Nirbad^,  where  is 
the  magnificent  ohattri  of  Ahaly^  B&l, 
an  ancestress  of  H.H.  Mahdrdjd  Hol- 
kar. Sir  John  Malcolm  says  of  this 
lady  : — "  The  character  of  her  ad- 
ministration was  for  more  than  30 
years  the  basis  of  the  prosperity 
which  attended  the  dynasty  to  which 
she  belonged.  She  sat  every  day  for 
a  considerable  period  in  open  Darbdr 
transacting  business.  Her  fii^t  principle 
of  government  appears  to  have  been 
moderate  [assessment  and  an  almost 
sacred  respect  for  the  native  rights  of 
village  officers  and  proprietors  of  lands. 
She  heard  every  complaint  in  person, 
and,  although  she  continually  referred 
causes  to  courts  of  equity  and  arbitra- 
tion and  to  her  ministers  for  settle- 
ment, she  was  always  accessible,  and 
so  strong  was  her  sense  of  duty  on  all 
points  connected  vtrith  the  distribution 
of  justice,  that  she  is  represented  as 
not  only  patient  but  unwearied  in  the 
investigation  of  the  most  insignificant 
causes  when  appeals  were  made  to  her 
decision.  It  appears  above  all  extra- 
ordinary how  Ghe  had  mental  and 
bodily  powers  to  go  through  the 
labour  she  imposed  upon  herself,  and 
which  from  the  age  of  30  to  that  of  60, 
when  she  died,  was  unremitted.  The 
hours  gained  from  the  affairs  of  the 
State  were  all  given  to  acts  of  devotion 
and  charity,  and  a  deep  sense  of  re- 
ligion appears  to  have  strengthened 
her  mind  in  performance  of  her 
worldly  duties.  Her  charitable  foun- 
dations extend  all  over  India,  from  the 
Himilyas  to  Cape  Kum^i,  and  from 
Somndth  to  the  Temple  of  Jagannith 
in  the  E."  For  a  further  description 
of  Maheshvara,  see  a  paper  in  the 
"  Indian  Antiquary,"  vol.  iv.,  p.  346. 
Ahalyd  Bdi  is  certainly  the  most  dis- 
tinguished female  character  in  Indian 
history.  She  was  the  vdfe  of  Ehandi 
R4o,  the  son  of  Malh&r  B4o,  founder 
of  the  dynasty.  The  present  Mahd- 
r^jd,  Tukojl  Holkar,  is  tall  and  power- 
fully made  and  used  to  be  a  famous 
rider.  He  has  2  sons,  Shivaji  Bdo  and 
Ediwant  Edo,  the  former  being  6  ft. 
high  and  strongly  made.  The  State 
of  Indiir  has  an  area  of  8,076  sq.  m., 
and  a  pop.  of  635,450.    The  revenue 


Sect.  11. 


Houte  22. — Indiir — MdJm, 


307 


is  2,469,408  rs.  The  anny  consists  of 
3073  troopers  and  5,256  infantry,  with 
24  guns.  There  is  a  very  excellent 
college  at  Lidiir,  where  English, 
Mar^thi,  Hindi,  Persian,  and  Sanskrit 
are  taught.  There  are  also  2  female 
schools  in  the  centre  of  the  city.  The 
city  is  kept  very  clean,  and  the  streets 
are  broad  and  well  drained. 

Lord  -Northbrook,  in  his  speech  of 
November,  1875,  said,  ^'  It  was  a  plea- 
sure to  me  in  passing  through  the  city 
to<lay  to  observe  the  wide  streets  and 
the  attention  which  has  evidently  been 
paid  to  their  drainage."  There  are  no 
very  remarkable  buildings  except  the 
palace,  which  was  built  soon  after  the 
battle  of  Mahidpiir  in  1816.  In  the 
plain  round  the  city  deer  are  to  be 
met  with,  and  dose  to  the  village  of 
Piplya,  about  2  m.  to  the  S.  of  Indur, 
where  H.H.  has  embanked  the  river 
Kahan,  are  waterfowl  and  partridges. 
The  river  here  is  shaded,  with  fine 
trees  on  its  N.  bank  for  about  1  m. 
The  water  is  23  ft.  deep  near  the  em- 
bankment, and  an  aqueduct  from  the 
stream  supplies  the  city.  At  the  em- 
bankment a  sheet  of  water  is  formed 
of  about  3  acres,  and  the  stream  is 
from  100  to  300  ft.  broad  for  at  least 
^m.  Indiir  is  the  best  place  for 
visiting  some  of  the  most  interesting 
spots  in  India.  The  description  of 
those  places  belongs  to  another  vo- 
lume, but  a  skeleton  tour  is  here 
appended  which  may  be  found  use- 
ful:— 


From 

To 

Miles. 

Indur 

Betwa    . 

15 

Betwa         .       .    . 

Dhar .        .    . 

21 

Dhar 

Bhopiwar     . 

24 

Bhopawar  .        .    . 
Return  tu 

Dhir      .       . 

28 
52 

DhAr  .... 

Nalchah    .    . 

20 

Nalchah  . 

Mdndu  . 

6 

Return  to  Nalchah 

Guzri        .    . 

20 

Guzri 

Maheshwar   . 

15 

Maheshwar        .    . 

Mandaleshwar 

6 

Mandaleahwar    .    . 

Ba4wai . 

24 

Ba^wii,  to  and  back 

Ankarji     .    . 

12 

£dgh  is  famous  for  its  caves,  and 
the  ruins  of  Mandu  city  are  said  to  be 
the  finest  in  the  world. 


Mdhu.  (Mhow)  has  a  pop.  of  7962. 
This  town  is  on  the  Gambher  river, 
on  rising  ground,  IJ  m.  N.W.  of  the 
cantonment,  and  13  m.  S.W.  of  Indiir. 
By  article  7  of  the  Treaty  of  Mandesh- 
war,  which  was  concluded  in  January, 
1818,  between  the  British  Government 
and  Malhar  Hao  Holkar,  it  was  agreed 
that  a  British  force  should  be  stationed 
at  Mihu,  and  a  considerable  body  of 
troops  have  constantly  ever  since  been 
located  there.  The  cantonments  are 
2019  ft.  above  the  sea.  The  climate  is 
considered  good,  though  the  jungles 
on  the  road  from  Malegdoii  used  to  be 
considered  quite  a  barrier  from  their 
unhealthiness.  Here  on  the  1st  of 
July,  1857,  the  23rd  regt.  Beng.  N.  I. 
mutinied  and  murdered  their  com- 
manding officer,  Colonel  Flatt,  and  his 
adjutant,  Capt.  Fagan,  and  Major 
Harris,  of  the  1st  L.  C. ,  was  killed  at 
the  same  time  by  his  own  troopers. 
The  mutineers  then  proceeded  to 
Indiir  and  plundered  the  Treasury  of 
£100,000.  They  were  then  joined  by 
the  5th  ragt.  of  the  GwAlidr  Contin- 
gent, marched  to  Agra,  and  took  a 
leading  part  in  the  subsequent  opera- 
tions of  the  rebels.  The  road  to 
Mahu  from  Indiir  runs  nearly  due 
S.  through  a  rather  uninteresting 
country,  particularly  as  far  as  Kim, 
7  m.,  where  horses  should  be  changed. 
On  reaching  Mdhu  one  passes  down  the 
old  bazar,  w^hich  runs  N.  and  S.,  leav- 
ing the  Montgomery  bdzAr  on  the 
left.  The  best  house  in  the  town, 
with  pillars  in  front,  belongs  to  a 
wealthy  PArsi,  who  has  much  house 
property  here.  The  cantonment  may 
be  described  as  follows :  the  Race 
Course  is  on  the  extreme  N.,  the 
Gambher  river  is  the  boundary  on  the 
W. ;  S.  of  the  Race  Course  are  the 
Cavalry  Horse-keeper's  lines,  then  the 
new  Cavalry  Hospital,  then,  running 
N.W.  to  S.K.,  the  new  road  for  Ni- 
mach.  S.  of  this  is  the  fort,  in  shape 
an  oblong  of  200  by  300  ft.  The 
magazine  is  in  the  centre,  where  about 
240,000  lbs.  of  powder  ought  to  be 
stored.  To  the  N.W.  of  this  is  a  new 
well  70  ft.  deep,  but  with  only  about 
10  ft.  of  water.  The  water  is  good,  and 
is  used  by  all  in  the  fort.    A  guard 

X  2 


308 


Houte  22. — KlmndwaJi  to  Indiir  and  Mdhu,        Sect.  II. 


of  10  European  soldiers  and  6  Sipdhis 
is  kept  here.    Some  serviceable  guns 
are  mounted  at  the  angles,  and  on  the 
W.  side  are  works  which  were  thrown 
up  by   Capt.  Hungerford,  during  the 
Mutiny,  to  protect  parties  going  for 
water.    Since  then,   the  w^l  and  a 
tank  close  to  the  works  have  been 
dug.    When  the  Mutiny  took  place, 
about  18  Europeans  took  refuge  here, 
but  no  attack  on  them  was  made.  The 
entrance  is  on  the  N.,  and  near  it  are 
2  brass  guns,  on  one  of  which  is  a 
Persian  inscription,  which  says  that  it 
was  made    by    command  of    MahA- 
r^jd  Jasvant  Edo  Holkar  at  Bhdopiir, 
in  the  year  1218  A.H.    On  the  extreme 
S.  of  the  cantonment  are  the  infantry 
barracks,  on  the  E.  of  the  road  from 
Mandaleshwar,  with  the  officers'  houses 
to  the  left.     N.  of  the  infantry  bar- 
racks are  the  artillery  barracks,  then 
the  old  and  new  cemetery,  then  the 
church    and    the    cavalry    barracks, 
bounded  on  the  W.  by  the  road  to 
Mankeshwar.     The  church  is  called 
CHristchurch,  and  is    a  plain,  small 
building,  and  the  register  commences 
July  1st,  1857,  with  a  note  that  the  old 
register  ended  on  the  day  of  the  mu- 
tiny at  Mdhu,  and  a  copy  was  sent  to 
the  registrar  of  the  diocese  the  day 
previous,  June  30, 1857.    On  the  right 
of  the  entrance  is  a  tablet  to  Lieut. 
J.  K.    Kildale,    of    the   72nd    High- 
landers,  who  died  July  30th,  1863,  and 
on   the  left  is  one  to  Lieut.  H.  F. 
Campbell,  of    the  same  regt.    Then 
follow  tablets  to  2  other  officers,  and 
then  1  to  Lieut.   Brodie  of  the  21st 
N.  I.,  and  Lieut.  C.  J.  Hunter,   4th 
Beng.  Cavalry,  killed  by  the  troopers 
they  commanded  at  Mahargadh,  7th  of 
June,  1857  ;  then  a  tablet  to  2  more 
officers  and  2  sergeants  killed  at  Me- 
hidpiir  on  the  29th  of  October,  1867  ; 
then    follow    several    other    tablets, 
among  which  is  one  to  Lieut.  Septi- 
mus Beck,  63rd  N.  I.,  drowned  at  the 
waterfalls,  August  23rd,  1835,  and  one 
to  Capt.  Lawrence  St.  Patrick  Gowan, 
of  the  InniskHlen  Dragoons,  killed  by 
a  tiger  at  the  village  of  Main,  near 
Mdhu,  on  the  24th  of  April,  1865.  The 
Governor-General's  agent  for  Rdjpi\- 
tdna  resides  here  in  a  very  moderate  [ 


house,  to  the  S.  of  which  is  the  ceme- 
tery.   The  oldest  of  the  epitaphs  here 
is  dated  Dec.  6, 1828,  and  beyond  it, 
under  a  magnificent  mango  tree,  lies 
Richmond  Campbell  Shakespeare,  who 
died  at  the  Residency,  October  23rd, 
1 86 1 .  Returning  by  the  E.wall,  at  about 
f's  of  its  length,  is  a  large  slab  in- 
scribed "  Sacred  to  the  memory  of  the 
undermentioned,    who     were  •  killed 
during  the  outbreak  at  Indtir,  on  the 
1st  of  July,  1857,  and  here  buried  on 
the  30th  of  December,  1857."     Here 
follow  21  names,  among  which  are 
Mr.  Sc  Mrs.  David  Macbeth  and  5  chil- 
dren.   On  the  W.  wall  opposite^  in  the 
comer  near  the  door,  is  a  tablet  to 
Lieuts.  Brodie  and  Hunt  of  the  Malwa 
Contingent,  who  were  murdered  by 
their  own  troopers.    N.  of  the  ceme 
tery  and  a  little  N.  and  ^  m.  £.  of  the 
Residency  is  a  church.     In  the  vestry 
is  a  tablet  with  this  inscription,  *'  St. 
Anne's  Church  was  built  at  the  sole 
expense  of  R.  N.  C.  Hamilton,  and 
made  over  to  the  Governor-General's 
agent,  9th  of  August,  1858.'*    Entering 
the    church  from  the  cemetery  side, 
the  first  tablet  is  to  "  George  Longley 
Mills,  Lieut.  14th  Bomb.  N.  L,  com- 
manding the  infantry  of  the  Malwa 
Contingent,  who,  after  being  severely 
wounded  in  leading  a  charge  on  Sun- 
day, Nov.  8th,  1867,  against  the  rebels 
when  they  attacked  the  station  of  Me- 
hidpiir,  died  when  being  carried  by 
his  own  men,  who  had  remained  faith- 
ful, to  a  place  of  refuge."    There  is 
also  a  tablet  erected  by  Sir  Robert 
Hamilton  to   Ross  MacMabon,   C.E., 
who  made    the  first  survey  for  the 
railway  from  Surat  to  Agra,  and  con- 
structed the  aqueduct  to  Indtir,  that 
was  made  by  order  of  H.  H.  Holkar. 
Near  the  altar  on  the  right  is  a  very 
handsome    tablet   to    Sir    Richmond 
Campbell  Shakespeare,  K.C.B.,  agent 
of  the  Governor-General,  who  died  on 
October  23rd,  1861.    Opposite,  on  the 
left  of  the  altar,  is  a  tablet  to  Caro- 
line, wife   of    Robert   North    Colley 
Hamilton  and  daughter  of    General  , 
Sir  George  Anson,  who  died  at  Cham- 
bri,  near  Sabdtu,  29th  of  November, 
1842. 


Sect.  II. 


Route  23. — Bombay  to  Surat. 


309 


EOUTE   23. 

BOMBAY  TO  SUBAT. 

Time  Table  of  the  Bombay^  Baroda^ 
and  Central  India  Baibvay. 


Distance 

from 

Koldba. 


Stations. 


Time. 

H.  M. 


Miles. 


u 

2 
2 

10| 
33i 

38^ 


571 
70* 
78 

1081 

118 
124^ 

135| 

139 

148} 

158 

167 


Eoldba . 

Church  Gate  Street 

Marine  Lines  . 

Chami  Road 

Grant  Road     . 

Bandora 

Bassin  Road    . 

VirAr    , 

Virdr 

PAlgarh 

Wan^aon 

Ddhanu  Road 

Dih&na  Road 

Dam4n  Road   . 


arr. 
dep. 


,  arr. 
dep. 


Pardi    . 
Balsdr 
Balsdr  . 
Bliimora 
Amalsdd 
Nausdri 
Sachin  . 
Surat 


arr. 
dep. 


A.      iim 

7.  0 
7.  8 
7.13 
7.19 
7.30 
7.47 
8.49 
9.  1 
9.  6 
9.53 

10.37 

10.47 

11.57 

P.  M. 

12.21 

12.35 

12.40 

1.14 

1.25 

1.50 

2.  5 

2.35 


The  charge  on  this  railroad  is  18 
pies  a  m.,  first  class,  between  Koldba 
and  Bandora,  and  15  between  Ban- 
dora and  WadhwAn.  Madras  time, 
J  an  h.  later  than  Bombay  time,  is 
kept.  After  WangAon,  the  Karud 
or  DAh&nu  river  is  crossed  before 
reaching  the  station  of  Ddhanu,  by  a 
bridge  of  6  spans  of  60  ft.  each.  Before 
reaching  Sanjdn,  90  m.,  the  San j An 
river  is  crossed  by  a  bridge  of  6  spans 
of  60  ft.  each.  The  Dam  An  river,  be- 
fore reaching  DamAn  station,  is  crossed 
by  a  bridge  of  14  spans  of  60  ft.  each. 
Before  reaching  UdwAda  the  Kolak  is 
crossed  by  a  bridge  of  7  spans.  Be- 
tween PArdl  and  BalsAr  2  rivers  are 
crossed,  the  PAr  river  by  a  bridge  of 
14  spans  of  60  ft.  each,  and  the  next 
river  by  a  bridge  of  2  spans  ;  then 
the  Oranga  river  by  a  bridge  of  15 
spans  of  60  ft.  each,  then  the  Koll 
Creek  by  a  bridge  of  2  spans  of  60  ft. 
each,  and  the  Kapri  Creek  by  a  bridge 
of  2  spans  of  60  ft.  each,  and  the 
Banni  Creek  by  a  bridge  of  2  spans 


of  60  ft.  Before  reaching  Bilimora 
Station  the  Ambika  river  is  crossed  by 
a  bridge  of  10  spans  of  50  ft.,  and  the 
Kuverl  river  by  a  bridge  of  11  spans 
of  60  ft.,  and  before  reaching  AmalsAd 
Station  the  Ambika  is  again  crossed 
by  a  bridge  of  14  spans  of  60  ft.  each, 
and  before  reaching  Maroli,  the  station 
before  Sachin,  the  PumA  river  is  crossed 
by  2  bridges,  the  first  of  6  spans,  and 
the  second  of  13  spans  of  60  ft.  each. 
Before  reaching  Sachin  the  Mendola  is 
crossed  by  a  bridge  of.  12  spans,  of  60  ft. 
ejich,  and  the  Meatl  Creek  by  a  bridge 
of  1  span  of  60  ft.  Before  reaching 
Surat,  the  Porbatni  Creek  is  crossed  by 
a  bridge  of  2  spans  of  60  ft.  each,  and 
Kankra  Creek  by  a  similar  bridge. 

Surat ^  is  the  capital  of  a  coUectorate, 
with  an  area  of  1553  sq.  m.  and  a 
pop.  of  492,684.  The  city  itself  has 
107,149  inhabitants.  The  Station  here 
cost  £25,000,  and  has  first-class  offices 
and  refreshment-rooms.  The  porters 
who  carry  the  luggage  of  passengers 
are  all  women. 

Uutory  of  Surat, — This  place  un- 
doubtedly derives  its  name  from  the 
Sanskrit  Surd^htra,*  from  su, "  good," 
and  rd^htra,  "  country."  In  spite  of 
the  assertions  of  Ovington,  who  speaks 
of  Surat  as  the  Musiris  of  Ptolemy, 
and  of  Hamilton,  who  declares  it  to  be 
one  of  the  most  ancient  cities  of  Hin- 
diistAn,f  there  is  every  reason  to  be- 
lieve with  the  Abbe  Kaynal,  that  in 
the  13th  century  Surat  was  no  more 
than  a  fishing  village.  The  SurA§htra 
of  the  BAmAyanah,  and  the  Syrastrena 
regio  of  Arrian  are  to  be  understood 
of  the  whole  country  of  Gujai'At,  which 
received  its  present  appellation  from 
the  Gujars,  a  tribe  driven  by  some  in- 
vasion far  to  the  E.,  and  now  J  spread 

*  Wilson's  "  Sanskrit  Dictionary."  Tod,  in 
his  *'  Travels  in  W.  India,"  p.  252,  derives  the 
word  Surdflitira  from  a  j^eople  of  sun  wor- 
shippers, called  Sauras.  Heber,  Avho,  in 
Indian  etymologies,  steps  beyond  his  mitiery 
wrongly  iilentittes  Surat^  the  name  of  the 
city,  with  the  Arabic  word  anratf  *'form," 
"beauty,"  a  gross  mistake,  which  it  is  painful 
to  see  perpetuated  by  Ritter,  vol.  iv.  div.  ii. 
part  vi.  b.  ii.  p.  629.  An  interesting  article 
on  Surat — its  past  and  present — will  be  found 
in  the  '*  Calcutta  Review,"  vol.  ix.  p.  103. 

t  Vol.  i.  p.  270. 

t  Elliot's  "  Supplement  to  the  Glossary  of 
Indian  Terms." 


310 


SouU  23. — Bombay  to  SurcU. 


Sect  IT. 


over  the  Dilli  territory,  the  Upper 
DoAb,  and  Upper  Rohilkhand.  Kham- 
bdyat  (Cambay)  was  the  seaport  of  the 
Hindii  monarchs,  who  ruled  in  this 
part  of  India,  and  Surat  rose  into  im- 
portance as  being  the  place  at  which 
the  pilgrims  to  Makkah  embarked  from 
all  parts  of  Hindi^stdn,  insomuch  that 
Surat  was  called  by  the  Muljamma- 
dans  of  India,  "the  Gate  of  Makkah." 
The  castle  of  Surat,  the  oldest  building 
in  the  Parganah,  is  about  300  years 
old ;  but  there  are  some  far  more  an- 
cient ruins  on  the  other  side  of  the 
river,  which  are  said  to  be  the  remains 
of  the  HindA  city  of  Render.  These 
remains,  the  legends  attaching  to  them, 
and  the  advantages  of  the  site  for  a 
commercial  emporium,  would  show 
that  in  the  vicinity  of  the  present 
Surat  there  was  anciently  a  Hindii 
town  ;  and  it  may  be  concluded  that, 
about  five  centuries  ago,  the  Mn^am- 
madans  began  to  colonize  Surat,  and 
that,  in  the  16th  century,  the  place 
attained  such 'importance  as  to  lead  to 
the  erection  of  fortifications,*  it  being 
then  a  possession  of  the  tings  of  A^- 
maddbid.  The  Portuguese  found  their 
way  to  the  place  soon  after  their  arrival 
in  India,  and  in  1512  sacked  the  then 
open  town.  On  the  19th  of  January, 
1573,  it  surrendered  to  Akbar  after  a 
siege  of  1  month  and  17  days.  In  the 
beginning  of  the  17th  century  the  Eng- 
lish began  to  visit  it.  Among  the  first 
Englishmen  who  came  to  Surat  was 
Captain   Hawkins  of  the   Hector^  in 

1608,  who  was  kindly  received  by  the 
natives,  "after  their  barbarous  man- 
ner."   On  his  ari'ival  at  Agra,  in  May, 

1609,  he  was  assured  of  permission  to 
establish  a  factory  at  Surat,  but  quitted 
India  without  effecting  this  object.  He 
left,  however,  at  Surat  one  William 
Finch,  who  writes  that,  siuce  Captain 
Hawkins  obtained  the /rtrwidw  for  esta- 
blishing the  factory  (which  was  never 
acted  upon),  "we  have  lived  at  our 
heart's  ease."  Finch,  therefore,  may 
justly  be  regarded  as  the  first  Com- 

*  For  a  very  ftill  notice  of  Surat,  see  Biiggs' 
''Cities  of  O^jardshtra;"  and  compare  Ander- 
son's W.  India  and  the  "  Bombay  Quarterly 
Review,"  Nos.  7  and  8.  But  consult  chiefly  the 
Govemm$nt  Gazetteer. 


pany's  Agent  at  Surat,  and  two  others 
intervened  before  Kerridge,  wrongly 
designated  the  first  by  Anderson  in  his 
"  Western  India."  Next  year,  the  Aseen- 
siony  Captain  A.  Sharpey,  having  been 
wrecked  at  Gronda,  on  the  o^ist  of 
Gujar&t,  75  of  the  crew  escaped  to 
Surat,  among  whom  was  the  Captain, 
who  was  employed  by  the  Mughal 
Emperor  to  build  a  ship  at  the  port. 
On  the  26th  of  September,  1611,  Sir 
Henry  Middleton  arrived  with  the 
Peppercorn  and  three  other  ships,  and 
engaged  in  a  series  of  conflicts  with 
the  Portuguese,  and  finally,  having 
disgusted  the  native  authorities  by  con- 
fining on  board  ship  the  ex-Governor 
Khwajah  Ndtfir^  was  obliged  to  depart. 
The  foundation  of  the  English  trade 
at  Surat  was  next  year  laid  by  Captain 
Best,  who  reached  the  coast  on  the 
28th  of  October,  1612,  with  the  Dragon 
and  the  Uosiander,  and  fought  his  way 
through  two  Portuguese  armaments 
into  the  mouth  of  the  river.  The 
Mu|^ul  Emperor  then  sent  down  a 
firmdn^  authorising  an  English  mi- 
nister to  reside  at  his  Court,  and  open- 
ing to  English  subjects  the  trade  at 
Surat.  In  1615,  Captain  Bownton, 
with  four  ships,  mounting  80  guns, 
defeated  the  Portuguese  fleet,  consist- 
ing of  4  galleons,  3  other  large  ships, 
and  60  smaller  vessels,  mounting  in 
all  134  guns.  This  victory  established 
the  reputation  of  the  English  for  war, 
and  their  superiority  over  the  Portu- 
guese. The  year  1615  was  marked  by 
the  arrival,  on  the  24th  of  September, 
of  Sir  Thomas  Roe,  English  Ambas- 
sador to  the  Court  of  Jahdngir,  who 
was  well  received  by  the  Emperor, 
and  obtained  permission  to  establish  a 
factory  at  Bhari^ch  (Broach),  which 
in  1683  was  so  flourishing  that  in  that 
single  year  an  investment  of  55,000 
pieces  of  cloth  was  sent  from  it  to 
England.  The  Dutch  trade  with  Surat 
commenced  on  the  2nd  of  August,  1616, 
when  Vanden  Broeck  was  courteously 
received  and  allowed  to  sell  his  goods, 
and  for  some  years  the  Dutch  Factory 
competed  successfully  with  the  Eng- 
lish at  Surat.  The  French  Factory  was 
not  founded  till  1668  when  the  agents 
of  the  French  East  India  Company, 


Sect  11. 


BotUe  23. — Surat. 


311 


which  Colbert  had  established  in  1664, 
settled  at  Surat,  with  Caron  as  their 
chief,  a  man  of  French  extraction,  but 
who  had  grown  old  in  the  service  of  the 
Dutch  Company  at  Japan.  On  Janu- 
ary the  5  th,  of  the  same  year,  the 
prosperity  of  Surat  received  a  dreadful 
blow  from  Shivajl,  who,  with  4000 
horse,  surprised  the  city,  and  plundered 
it  for  six  days,  but  was  beaten  off  from 
the  English  and  Dutch  Factories.  This 
so  pleased  Aurangzib  that  he  sent  Sir 
Q-.  Oxindon  a  robe  of  honour,  and 
granted  the  English  an  exemption 
from  customs.  The  walls  of  Surat  up 
to  this  time  were  of  mud,  but  they 
were  now  ordered  to  be  built  of  brick  ; 
and  Thevenot,  who  was  at  Surat  in 
1666,  mentions  they  were  then  pro- 
gressing. Surat  was  again  partially 
pillaged  by  the  Mardthas  in  1670,  and 
also  in  1702.  On  the  3rd  of  May,  1706, 
the  Mardthas,  a  fourth  time,  laid  siege 
to  Surat,  but  were  compelled  to  retire. 
Towards  the  close  of  this  century  the 
pirates,  and  especially  the  English 
under  Avory  and  others,  became  ex- 
ceedingly daring,  and  in  1696  Avory 
took  the  largest  of  the  Mughul  ships 
on  her  passage  to  Arabia  with  pilgrims. 
This  raised  such  an  excitement  at 
Surat  that  the  Governor  was  compelled 
to  imprison  Vaux,  the  President,  and 
others,  53  Englishmen  in  all,  besides 
10  at  Sivdlya  (Swally),  the  harbour  of 
Surat,  and  several  at  Bhari^ch.  About 
this  time  commenced  the  disputes  of 
the  rival  London  and  English  Com- 
panies ;  and  on  the  19th  of  January, 
1700,  Sir  Nicholas  Waite,  Consul  for 
the  King,  and  President  for  the  New 
Company,  arrived  at  Surat.  Sir  John 
Gayer,  the  Governor  of  the  Old  Com- 
pany, now  imprudently  quitted  Bom- 
bay, and  located  himself  at  SivAlya 
(Swally).  On  the  10th  of  Jan.  1700, 
Sir  William  Norris,  Ambassador  to  the 
Mughul  Emperor,  arrived  at  Surat,  and 
attempted  to  reconcile  the  representa- 
tives of  the  rival  Companies,  but  in 
vain.  In  February,  1701,  the  son  of 
the  native  Governor  of  Surat  parched 
with  50  soldiers  to  SivAlya  and  seized 
Sir  J.  Gayer,  his  wife,  and  several 
factors  and  others,  in  all  109  persons, 
and  confined  them  in  their  factory  for 


three  years.  The  struggle  of  the  Com- 
panies continued  till  1708,  when  they 
were  united  after  Lord  Godolphin's 
award,  and  in  that  year  Sir  N.  Waite 
was  dismissed  from  the  service.  He 
was  succeeded  by  William  Aislabie,  a 
brother  of  that  John  Aislabie  who  was 
removed  from  his  office  as  Chancellor 
of  the  Exchequer  for  his  share  in  the 
South  Sea  Bubble,  and  who  purchased 
and  laid  out  the  magnificent  estate  of 
Studeley,  near  Ripon.  W.  Aislabie  ob- 
tained from  Ghaftei'd  din  and  others 
at  Surat  the  enormous  sum  of  three 
millions  and  several  hundred  thousand 
rupees,  due  to  the  Company.  A  new 
aera  now  began  to  dawn  upon  the 
English  at  Surat.  They  were  fast 
approaching  the  period  when  they 
were  to  acquire  political  influence  in 
this  city,  still  to  that  day  regarded  as 
the  greatest  emporium  of  W.  India. 
In  1712  they  had  left  Surat,  and  were 
without  a  factory  there  for  three  years  ; 
but  the  surgical  skill  of  Mr.  Hamilton 
80  pleased  the  Emperor  that  he  granted 
a  new  farmdn  to  the  Company,  and 
issued  orders  to  the  NiiwAb  of  GujarAt 
and  the  Siibahddr  of  the  Dakhan  to 
throw  no  impediment  in  the  way  of 
the  English  trade.  On  the  receipt  of 
this  imperial  rescript  the  English  re- 
turned to  their  factory  at  Surat.  They 
were,  however,  exposed  to  many  an- 
noyances from  the  Governors  of  the 
city,  and  especially  from  Rustam 
Khdn,  who  soon  after  this  time  suc- 
ceeded to  the  government.  Having 
espoused  the  cause  of  Sirbuland  Kb  An, 
Niwdb  of  GujarAt,  in  opposition  to 
Hamld  Kh^n,  uncle  and  deputy  of 
NijjAmu'l-mulk,  this  Rustam  was  de- 
feated at  Aras,  mainly  through  the 
treachery  of  Pillajl  GAekwAd.  He  then, 
with  great  difficulty,  made  his  way  to 
the  vicinity  of  AhmadAbAd,  where, 
being  deserted  by  all  but  150  men,* 
he  stabbed  himself  with  his  dagger,  and 
expired  on  the  10th  of  February,  1725. 
He  was  succeeded  in  the  Government 
of  Surat,  on  the  21st  of  June,  by  his 

*  This  part  of  Surat  affairs  is  not  given 
quite  correctly  in  the  "  Bombay  Quarterly " 
for  Jan.  1866,  p.  73.  It  wa.s  not  for  some  days 
after  the  battle  of  Aras  that  Rustam  killed 
himself. 


312 


Houte  23. — Boinhay  to  SuraL 


Sect.  II. 


son  Suhrdb  ;  on  the  5th  of  April,  1728, 
Tegh  Beg  Khdn,  who,  with  the  aid  of 
Mnuldn^  MalimM  *Ali,  had  deposed 
SuhrAb,  was  confirmed  in  the  govern- 
ment by  the  Emperor.  The  English 
lent  their  aid  to  Tegh  Beg  in  this 
revolution,  having  in  view  as  a  reward 
a  portion  of  the  revenues  which  had 
been  set  apart  by  the  Emperor  for  the 
payment  of  his  Admirals.  This,  after 
lengthened  negotiations  with  the  new 
(Jovemor,  they  were  unable  to  obtain. 
On  the  28th  of  August,  1746,  Tegh  Beg 
KhAn  died,  having  previously  entrusted 
all  the  executive  powers  of  the  govern- 
ment to  Ghuldm  Mal>mi!id,  sumamed 
Safdar  Khdn.  This  chief  placed  his 
son  in  command  of  the  castle,  but  he 
was  shortly  after  expelled  by  Miydn 
Akhund,  a  connection  of  the  family, 
who,  after  a  struggle,  obtained  the 
NiiwAbship,  but  lost  the  castle,  to  the 
Sidi  or  Admiral.  In  order  to  dispos- 
sess him,  Miy&n  Akhund  came  to 
terms  with  the  English,  and  a  treaty 
was  signed  on  the  4th  of  March,  1759, 
by  which  the  castle  and  fleet  were 
made  over  to  them,  with  two  l^hs  of 
rupees  yeai'ly  stipend.  This  was  con- 
firmed by  a  sanad  or  grant  from  Dilli. 
Miyah  A^khund  died  in  17()3,  and  the 
Niiwabship  descended  in  his  family 
until,  on  the  13th  of  May,  1800,  Mir 
Ndj?iru'd  din,  the  then  Niiwdb,  was 
pensioned  and  deposed.  From  that 
time  the  government  of  Surat  vested 
entirely  in  the  Company.  On  account 
of  the  great  interest  attaching  to  the 
English  Factory  at  this  place,  the 
names  of  the  Presidents  arc  subjoined, 
with  the  dates  of  their  accession  : — 

Date  of  Ap- 

Naiues  of  the  Chief  Factors    ^Tiy'TniJ'' 
or  Presidents  of  Surat.         ^^  Pabii" 

Disi>atch. 

Will.  Finch,  left  in  cliaige  l)y 
Captain  Hawkins, writes  that, 
* "  since  Captain  Hawkins  ob- 
tained the  farmdn,  we  have 
lived  at  our  heart's  ease." 
The  farmdn,  however,  was 
afterwards  revoked        .        .   July  12,  1609 

Alex.  Bharpiteigh  .    .    Out.  11,  1611 

Thomas  Aldworth.  This  chief 
refused  to  leave  Surat  when 
desired  by  Capt.  Best,  and  by 
this  flrniness  a  stable  settle- 
ment was  effected  in  the  place, 
ftfter    several    previous    at- 


Names  of  the  Chief  Factors 
or  Presidents  of  Surat. 


Date  of  Ap- 
pointment, or 
of  their  first 

PubUc 
Despatch, 
tempts  had  failed.     On  the 
14th  of  July,  1612,  Aldworth 
received  h farmdn,  permitting 
the  factory  to  be  established  .  Jan.  25, 1612 
Thomas  Kerridge,  who  writes 
that,  on  the  20th  F-b.,  1612, 
a  second/h  rmdn  was  i  oceived, 
addressed   directly    to    the 
English,    the   other    having 
been   sent  to  the  Governor 

only Mar.  12, 1612 

Thomas  Kerridge  (styled  Presi- 
dent, April  1,  1620)        .        .  Oct.    2,   1616 
Thomas  Rastell     ....  Nov.   9,  1622 
Kerridge  returns  from  England, 
Nov.  15.  1624,  but  does  not 
resume  his  Presidentship  till  April   9, 1625 
Richard  Wyld    ....  Dec.  12,  1628 
Thomas  Rastell    ....  Sept.  29,  1630 
Joseph  Hopkinson   .        .        .  Jan.  23,  1631 
William  Metliwold       .        .    .  Feb.  21,  1633 
William  Fremlen       .        .       .  Oct.  20,  1638 
BYancis  Breton     ....  Feb.    7,  1643 
Thomas  Merry  ....  Jan.  25,  1649 
Captain  Jeremy  Blackmau  .    .  Jan.  12,  1651 
Edward  Pearce  .        .        .  Mar.  15,  1654 

John  Spiller Jan.  10,  1656 

Henry  Kevington  .  .  .  Jan.  30,  1656 
Henry  Greenhill  ....  Oct  16,  1658 
Edward  Pearr;e  ....  Oct  20,  1658 
Nathaniel  Wyche  .  ...  Jan.  11,  1658 
Matthew  Andrews  .  .  .  Mar.  1658 
Sir  George  Oxindon  (this  is  the 
way  he  signs  his  name,  not 
Oxenden)  ....  Sept.  18, 1662 
Gerald  Aungier  ....  Oct  26,  1669 
Charles  James  ....  Aug.  31,  1677 
Thomas  Rolt  ....  Feb.  5,  1677 
John  Child  ....  Jan.  23,  1681 
Bartholomew  Harris  .  .  .  April  28, 1690 
Samuel  Annesley  .  .  .  Jan.  13,  1694 
Stephen  Colt,  for  the  older  "j 

London  Coniiiany       .        .  f    «„^    ,,   ,^ofi 
BeiUamin  Newse,  for  the  E.  f  ^^^'  "»  ^®^* 

Company    .        .       .        ,) 
SirNichohisWaite    .        .        .  Nov.  27, 1698 
The  last  dispatch  of  Stephen 

Colt Jan.  10,  1700 

Disputes  of  tlie  rival  Com- 
panies, violent  measures  of 
Sir  N.  Waite  and  imprison- 
ment of  Sir  John  Gayer  .  1700-1712 
The  factory  abandoned  in  con- 
sequence of  the  menaces  of 
the  native  Government .  .  1712-1716 
President  Charles  Boone,  Go- 
vernor of  Bombay,  comes  to 
Surat  to  examine  into  affairs, 
in  which  the  late  President 
Annesley  is  desired  to  lend 

his  aid Feb.  22,  1718 

John  Courtney  ....  Aug.  1,  1724 
Henry  Lowther  ,  .  .  .  Aug.  1,  1729 
John  Lambton  ....  Mar.  16,  1736 
James  Hope  ....  Apr.  13,  1739 

Thomas   Marsh  (died  Oct  0, 
1748]  ....  Aug.    4,  1747 


Sect.  II. 


Houte  23. — Surat, 


313 


Names  of  the  Chief  Factors 
or  Presidents  of  Simit. 


Thomas  Dorrill     .       .       .    . 

James  Henry  Lambc 

Charles  Crommelin      .        .    . 

Brabazon  Ellis  .... 

John  Spencer       .        .        .    . 

William  Andrew  Price 

Thomas  Hodges    .... 

William  Andrew  Price      . 

Robert  Gambler   .        .        .    . 

Daniel  Draper   .... 

William  Andrew  Price  (died 
March  10, 1774)      . 

Robert  Oambier  (in  Dec.  of  this 
year  suspended  on  chai^ge  of 
gambling  away  the  Company's 
property)        .       .        .        . 

Rawson  Hart  Boddam  .       ,    . 

Thomas  Day      .       .       .       . 

Andrew  Ramsay   .... 

John  Griffith      .        .        .        . 

William  Gamuel  Farmer       .    . 

John  Spencer     .... 

Daniel  Seton         .       .       .    . 


Date  of 

Ap- 

pointment,  or 

of  their  first 

Public 

Despatch. 

Oct. 

10, 

1748 

Nov. 

10, 

1749 

Mar. 

23, 

1752 

Jan. 

17, 

1755 

Nov. 

21, 

1758 

Dec. 

6, 

1759 

Oct. 

1, 

1762 

Nov. 

1768 

Sept. 

4, 

1769 

Jan. 

1. 

1771 

Dec.   6,  1771 


Mar.  11,  1774 
May  21,  1776 
Dec.  15, 1783 
Dec.  11,  1785 
April  2,  1787 
Mar.  4,  1795 
Jan.  13,  170(5 
Feb.  18,  1796 


With  Mr.  Seton  ended  the  series  of 
Presidents  at  Smat,  and  on  the  15th 
of  May,  18(X),  Edward  Galley  was 
appointed  collector  of  the  Parganahs 
belonging  to  that  city,  by  Mr.  Duncan, 
Governor  of  Bombay,  whose  proclama- 
tion of  that  date  announced  that  the 
rule  of  the  Niiwdbs  had  passed  away. 
In  1802,  by  the  treaty  of  Bassln,  the 
Peshwd  surrendered  his  interest  in  the 
two  gates  of  the  city,  and  the  Chmith, 
or  fourth  part,  of  the  revenue  of  the 
y.iVa^  which  was  what  the  Mardthas 
usually  collected.  In  1842,  the  last 
titular  NiiwAb  died,  and  the  flag  of 
Dilll  was  removed  from  the  citadel. 
The  Englhli  Factory  was  first  used  as 
a  hospital,  then  as  &  lunatic  asylum, 
and  is  now  a  private  dwelling.  It 
was  a  noble  pile,  of  great  strength  and 
solidity;  as  was  also  the  Portuguese 
Factory. 

.  Sfurat  City.— The  Taptl,  after  run- 
ning for  a  considerable  distance  in 
almost  a  direct  W.  course,  turns,  about 
20  m.  from  its  mouth,  in  a  S.S.W. 
direction .  Twelve  miles  after  it  makes 
this  bend,  it  flows  past  the  walls  of 
Surat,  and  a  few  miles  below  passes  a 
small  island,  and  just  at  its  mouth  a 
second  island.  Opposite  this  island, 
on  the  S.  bank,  is  Doma^f  8  m.  from 
Surat,  a  small  town,  which  is  a  fa- 


vourite resort  of  the  residents  of  Surat 
during  the  summer  heats.    Facing  it, 
on  the  N.  side  of  the  river,  is  Vaux's 
tomb.    Mr.  Vaux,  according  to  Hamil- 
ton, was  drowned  in  the  Taptl,  toge- 
ther with  his  Avife,  by  a  pinnace  over- 
setting in  which  he  was  sailing  for 
pleasure.     This   took  place  in  1697. 
He  was  for  a  short  time  Governor  of 
Bombay,  and   President  of  Surat  in 
succession  to  Sir  John  Child,  who  died 
at  Bombay  in  1690.    Not  far  from  the 
tomb  is  the  Bay  of  Sivdlya  (Swally), 
where,  too,  there  used  to  be  a  village 
in  the  palmy  days  of  the  Surat  Presi- 
dency.   The  Taptl  at  Surat  is  said  to 
be  fordable  at  low  water,  while  at  high 
tides  it  can  float  vessels  of  50  tons 
burthen.    From  the  river  side  to  the 
city  gates*  is  a  distance    of    44  m. 
through  gardens  and  suburbs.  A  brick 
wall,  called  the  ^ Alavtpan&h,  or  *  pro- 
tection of   the  world,*  encircles   the 
suburbs  in  the  form  of  a  bow,+  the 
string  of  which,  depressed  in  the  mid- 
dle,  is  the  river.    The  city  extends 
about  6  m.    in    circumference.    The 
wall  is  flanked  by  bastions  of  small 
size  at  irregular  distances.    Its  height 
varies  from  13  to  18  ft.    It  was  not 
originally  strong,  and,  having   never 
been  repaired  from  the  time  it  was 
built  in  1530  by  Iii!m[ii  Kb  An,  it  is  now 
in  a  deplorable  conditiun.     It  has  12 
gates,  with  heavy  wooden  leaves  turn- 
ing on  tenons.    There  is  also  an  inner 
wall  called  the  SJuihrjmndh,  or  *  City 
rampart,'  with  the  like  number  of  gates. 
It  extends  about  3  m.  in  an  irregular 
oval  form.    Its  date  and  structure  are 
the  same  as  the  outer  wall;  but  its 
condition  is  even  worse,  for  in  many 
places  it  is  level  with    the  ground. 
Near  the  centre  of  a  line  drawn  from 
the  point  where  one  extremity  of  the 
outer  wall  touches  the  river  to  the 
other  extremity  of  the  wall,  stands  the 
castle,  which  makes  such  a  figure  in 
the  early  annals  of  the  English  factory. 
It  has  round  bastions,  a  glacis,  and  a 
covered  way.    According  to  Mill,J  it 
was  erected  in  1543.    Here,  in  Bishop 
Heber*s  time,  floated  together  with  the 

*  Heber,  vol.  ii.,  p.  122. 

t  Autobiography  of  LutfuUah,  p.  191. 

X  Vol.  vi.,  p.  28y. 


314 


JRoiUe  23, — Bombay  to  Surat, 


Sect.  II. 


Union  Jack  of  England  and  the  plain 
red  flag,  the  ancient  ensign  of  the  Em- 

Eerors  of  Dilll.    Of  the  many  guxlens 
etween  the  outer  and  inner  walls  of 
Surat,  Mahmudi  Bdgh  was  the  finest. 
Forbes*  gives  a  glowing  description 
of  its  walks  and  parterres,  and  of  the 
pavilion  in  which  the  ladies  of  the 
NiiwAb  used  to  reside.    Ruin  has  de- 
scended on  this  as  on  all  other  pa^rts 
of  Surat.    In  its  flourishing  time,  in 
1796,  the  city  is  said  to  have  con- 
tained 800.000  inhabitants,  and  though 
Mill  regards  this  as  an  exaggeration, 
he  is  inclined  to  consider  Surat  as,  at 
that  time,  the  largest  city  in  India. 
In  1838  the  population  was  133,544, 
and  in  1847  was  reckoned  by  Briggs 
at  95,000.  f    Surat  has  suffered  much  at 
various   times  from   the   destructive 
floods  of  the  Taptl.    When  heavy  rains 
fall  in  Eh&ndesh,  the  river  swells  to  a 
formidable  height,  and  in  1727,  ac- 
cording to  Stavorinus,  the  flood  was 
so    great  that  the   people  sailed    in 
boats  over  the  dty  walls  as  far  as  the 
DarbAr.    In  July,  1776,  the  river  rose 
10  ft.  in  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  and  was 
in  a  short  time  on  a  level  with  the  city 
walls.    About  the  same  time  of  the 
year,  in  1781,$  a  dreadful  storm  raised 
the    river    to   a   prodigious    height. 
Forbes,  who  was  then  at  Surat,  gives 
an  awful,  but   perhaps  exaggerated, 
account  of  its  ravages.    According  to 
him,  3000  persons  who  had  taken  refuge 
in  an  island  of  the  Tapti  from  the 
Mar&thas,  were  all  swept  away  by  the 
stream,  and  every  soul  perished.    Ex- 
tensive parts  of  the  widls  and  fortifi- 
cations, numbers  of  houses  and  edifices 
fell,  and  in  the  adjacent  districts,  whole 
villages,  with  all  their    inhabitants, 
were  swept  away.    Every  ship  at  the 
bar  and  all  the  boats  and  other  vessels 
in  the  river  foundered  or  were  driven 
ashore,  with  terrible  loss  of  Ufe.    The 
Revenge,  the   finest  cruiser   on   the 
Bombay  station,  went  down  with  all 
on  board,  and  the  Terrible,  Dolphin, 
and  other  armed  vessels  were  lost  in 

*  •'Oriental  Memoirs,"  vol.  i.,  p.  162. 

t  "Cities  of  G^Jarishtra,'*  p.  139. 

X  "Oriental  Memoirs/'  vol.  ii.,  p.  156,  com- 
pared with  pp.  887 and  867.  Briggs,  p.  85,  makes 
Forbes's  account  apply  to  the  storm  of  1776. 


the  same  way.  In  1810,  1822,  and 
again  in  1827,  there  were  similar  visi- 
tations. In  the  last-named  year  the 
inundation  was  preceded  by  a  cala- 
mitous fire.  This  occurred  on  Monday, 
the  24th  of  April,  and  destroyed  6000 
houses,  500  human  beings,  and  so 
much  property  as  to  reduce  70,000  of 
the  inhabitants  to  beggary.  The  danger 
of  inundations  has  been  much  dimi- 
nished by  a  canal  made  by  the  late 
Capt.  Watlrins  Wenn,  from  Bariwshl  to 
the  Creek  of  Udandi. 

The  Taptl.  or  more  properly  Tapl 
river,  after  approaching  Surat  on  the 
KE.  to  within  2  m.,  bends  away  from 
the  city  to  the  N.  for  nearly  4  m.,  and 
then  returns  and  washes  the  W.  face 
of  the  town  where  the  fort  is.  It  then 
continues  its  course  for  10  m.,  and 
empties  itself  into  the  sea  between 
Vaux's  tomb  on  the  N.  W.  and  the  land 
S.  of  Dumas  or  Domas  on  the  S.E.  The 
T.B.  is  close  to  the  river  bank,  about 
\  m.  S.  of  the  fort.  The  first  drive  the 
traveller  should  take  is  to  the  fort, 
adjoining  which  is  the  People's  Park, 
or  Victoria  Guxlens,  a  very  nicely  laid 
out  ground.  There  is  a  slab  in  the 
wall  of  the  fort  inscribed — 

This  Promenade 

was  constructed 

for  the  use  of  the  inhabitants  of  Surat 

by  their  fellow  citizen 

BARQORJI  MARWlNJI  FRASEB,  Esq., 
at  a  cost  of  Rs.  8,000. 
A.D.  1869. 

These  Gardens  cover  8^  acres,  and 
are  kept  up  at  a  cost  of  Bs.  1200  a 
year,  including  receipts  for  the  sale  of 
fruit  and  grass.  There  are  seats  for 
the  public  provided  by  benevolent 
persons,  whose  names  are  inscribed,  as 
e,g,  Bahrdmji  Kaushirwdnjl,  of  the 
Bombay  Foundry.  The  late  Ntiwdb  of 
Sachin  gave  Rs.  6200  for  an  engine  to 
raise  water  for  the  garden.  There  are 
2  fountains,  on  one  of  which  is  the 
figure  of  a  mermaid  coloured  black  ; 
on  the  other  is  inscribed — 

These  Fountains 
were  erected  by 

FATIMAHU'N  NISA   BIGAM 

at  a  cost  of  Rs.  8,000. 

1869. 

At  250  yds.  to  the  S.  of  these 
gardens  is  the  Makkah  bridge,  which 


Sect  II. 


Bonte  23. — Surat. 


315 


crosses  the  Makkah  Creek,  leading 
from  the  Tapti  to  the  Gropi  Taldo,  and 
then  through  the  centre  of  the  city. 
Floods  in  the  river  sent  a  rash  of 
water  np  this  creek  and  inundated  the 
lower  parts  of  the  city,  to  prevent 
which  a  dam  of  brick  was  constructed 
here  with  6  sluices,  the  2  upper  of 
which  are  opened  and  let  out  the 
overflow.  The  ground  parallel  with 
the  creek  is  raised  to  96*50  ft.  above 
the  level  of  the  river,  and  forms  a 
rampart  against  the  floods.  Once  in  a 
century  the  water  is  said  to  rise  2  ft. 
higher  than  this,  but  so  slowly  that 
time  would  be  given  to  throw  up  fresh 
works.  There  are  2  places  here  where 
there  are  remains  of  the  '  Alam  pan4h, 
or  outer  city  wall.  These  remains  are 
level  with  the  ground,  but  descend 
several  ft.  below  the  surface.  They 
are  of  red  brick,  and  very  thick. 
From  the  promenade  of  the  gardens  is 
seen  to  the  right  the  fine  bridge  which 
crosses  the  Tapti.  The  breadth  of  the 
river  at  the  place  where  the  bridge  is, 
is  1,700  ft.  The  bank  on  the  «urat 
side  is  high,  above  ordinary  floods ; 
on  the  Rdnder  side  the  bank  is  low, 
and  the  land  beyond  it  is  usually 
flooded  to  the  distance  of  2  m.  during 
the  rains.  The  bridge  consists  of  17 
spans  of  wrought-iron  Warren  lattice 
girders,  carried  upon  piers  formed  of 
iron  cylinders.  Each  pier  is  composed 
of  2  columns  of  cast-iron  cylinders 
placed  20  ft.  apart  from  centre  to 
centre,  and  strongly  joined  together 
by  lattice  bracings.  The  main  girders 
are  each  10  ft.  high,  and  103  ft.  long. 
The  roadway  consists  of  2  planked 
footpaths  5  ft.  wide  for  passengers, 
and  a  macadamized  roadway  caiTied 
on  buckled  plates  of  wrought-iron  for 
cart  trafiic.  On  the  N.  bank  of  the 
river  ramps  of  earth  are  carried  down 
to  the  r.  and  1.  of  the  bridge  in  the 
shape  of  the  letter  T.  These  ramps 
are  pitched  with  stone  on  the  side 
slopes,  and  paved  with  stone  on  the 
upper  surface  up  to  the  level  of  the 
highest  known  flood.  On  the  S.  bank, 
or  Surat  side  of  the  river,  the  ap- 
proaches run  through  the  end  of  the  old 
castle,  crossing  the  castle  moat  by  a 
small  iron  bridge  of  2  30-ft.  spans 


caiTied  on  cast-iron  screw  piles  2  ft.  6 
in  diameter.  The  average  depth  of 
sand,  mud,  and  clay,  through  which 
each  column  had  to  be  sunk,  was  48  ft. 
The  cost  of  the  work  was  £70,451,  of 
which  £8,000  was  paid  by  the  Surat 
Municipality,  and  £2,000  by  the  Render 
Municipality.  (Surat  and  Bhardch 
Gazetteer^  p.  161.)  R4nder  is  built 
on  the  site  of  a  very  ancient  Hindii 
city,  destroyed  by  the  Mul^ammadans 
in  the  12th  century.  The  Jdm'i  Mas- 
jid  stands  on  the  site  of  the  i)rincipal 
Jain  temple.  In  the  f a9ade  the  bases 
of  the  Jain  columns  are  still  visible, 
and  the  great  idol  is  placed  head 
downwards  as  a  doorstep  for  the  faith- 
ful to  tread  on  in  entering  the  mosque. 
In  another  mosque  are  the  wooden 
columns  and  domes  belonging  to  the 
Jain  Temple,  and  they  are  the  only 
wooden  remains  of  the  kind  in  Gujardt. 
Surat  city  forms  nearly  the  arc  of  a 
circle,  being  about  IJ  m.  broad  from  the 
castle  on  the  W.  to  the  Sard  gate,  which 
leads  to  the  railway  on  the  E.,  and  about 
1 4  m.  N.  from  the  J'af ar  'All  gate  on  the 
S.  to  the  Katargion  gate  on  the  N. 
The  gates  are  the  PhAtSc,  on  the  N.W. ; 
the  Vari^v  on  the  N.  side,  but  going  E. ; 
the  Elatargdoii,  still  E.,  in  the  same 
direction;  the  Dilli  gate  on  the  N.E., 
the  Sard  gate  due  E.,  the  Sal&bat  gate, 
Mdn  gate,  Nawdri  gate,  J'afar  'All, 
Majiiri.  and  AthawS  gates,  all  in  the 
S.  face  of  the  city,  proceeding  from 
E.  to  W.  The  castle  was  built  between 
1540  and  1546  by  a  Turkish  soldier,  who 
was  granted  the  title  of  Khud&wand 
Ehdn  by  Mal;^mi!id  Begada,  king  of 
GujarAt.  It  is  now  a  strong  brick 
building,  with  walls  8  ft.  thick,  cover- 
ing about  an  acre.  The  tower  is  80  ft. 
high,  and  there  arc  2  32-pounder  guns 
at  the  top,  with  the  dates  1798  and 
1799.  On  the  N.  bastion  there  ai-e  3 
or  4  other  guns  of  the  same  calibre. 
There  is  a  good  well  of  water  within 
the  walls,  and  the  offices  of  the  col- 
lector and  his  assistant  and  clerks 
are  there.  The  traveller  will  drive 
from  the  castle  E.  along  the  station 
road,  which  was  made  at  a  cost  of 
£40,000,  but  deducting  building  mate- 
rials, &c.,  which  were  sold,  only 
£25,000.     About  J's  of  the  way  is  the 


316 


RotUe  23. — Bombay  to  Surat. 


Sect.  II. 


Clock  Tower,  100  ft.  high,  with  the 
following  Inscription  : — 

This  dock  Tower  was  erected 
In  Memory  of 

HARWXNJI   HORMAZJI   eraser,  Esq., 
and  for  tlie  convenience  of  the  inhabitants  of 

Bnrat, 

By  his  Son, 

Khan  Bahddnr  fiargoiji  Marwii\ji  Eraser, 

At  a  cost  of  Rs.  14,000,  in  1871. 

On  the  other  side  of  the  road  to  the 
Tower  and  N.  of  it  is  a  Dispensary, 
maintained  by  Government  and  the 
Municipality,  to  which  Khurshldji 
Faridunji  contributed  Rs.  6,000.  The 
Clock  Tower  has  on  each  of  its  4  faces, 
at  a  height  of  80  ft.,  a  clock.  For  a 
view  of  the  town,  it  will  be  well  to 
ascend  this  tower.  85  steps  bring 
you  to  an  open  place  guarded  by  a 
bar,  from  which  you  can  see  the  view. 
To  the  "W.  are  seen  the  Castle,  People's 
Park,  Hospital,  High  School,  Dutch 
bandar,  and  French  bandar.  To  the 
S.  are  the  Majiiri  and  J'afar  'All  gates, 
and  to  the  E.  of  them  the  Nawarl  and 
Mdn  gates ;  and  J  of  m.  to  the  N,  of 
them  the  Gopl  Talao ;  the  railway- 
station  to  the  £.,  and  Dharms41&  for 
Europeans  and  others  are  also  seen. 
On  the  N.E.,  close  to  the  railway- 
station,  is  the  Cotton  Factory,  and 
another  a  little  to  the  S.  of  the  NilwAb's 
road,  near  the  Sard  gate  ;  and  on  the 
other  side  of  the  road  the  Niiwdb's 
palace.  The  remains  of  the  English 
factory  are  near  the  Eatargdoii  gate, 
close  to  the  river ;  and  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  road  is  the  English  racquet 
court,  and  a  little  to  the  N.  the  Portu- 
guese Factory,  where  are  still  some 
records,  and  a  tall  wooden  cross, 
marking  the  site  of  the  church,  which 
is  still  Portuguese  property.  It  has 
a  copper  tablet  with  the  following 
Inscription  : — 

Hie  exstabat 

Unicuni  Altiire 
Veteris  ecclesi»e 

Capuithensium 
et  contra  }>orta. 

This  inscription  is  incorrectly  given  at 
p.  304  of  the  Gazetteer,  Behind  the 
Portuguese  Factory  was  the  French 
lodge  ;  the  site  is  open,  but  all  traces 
of  building  have  disappeared.  The 
Persian  Factory  once  b&xkI  next,  and 


the  French  are  said  to  have  saved 
themselves  ^^  from  plunder  at  Shivaji's 
hands  by  allowing  his  troops  to  pass 
through  their  house  to  rob  the  Persian 
Factory."  (Bruce's  Annals,  ii.,  p.  286.) 
Further  on  is  the  Armenian  church, 
disused  for  37  years,  but  still  in  repair. 
In  the  I7th  and  Isth  centuries  the 
foreign  merchants  lived  in  this  quarter 
of  the  city.  About  half  way  between 
the  castle  and  Katarg&on  gate  is  the 
municip^  office.  This  office  was  ori- 
ginally a  Musdfir  Ehdnah,  or  T.  B., 
founded  by';]^a)p4:at  Kh4n  about  1638. 
It  is  a  very  handsome  building,  a 
quadrangle  with  rooms  all  round,  but 
only  of  1  story  originally.  It  is 
nearly  op})osite  the  Bakhshl's  house, 
but  a  little  to  the  N.  of  it,  on  the 
other  side  of  the  Eatargdon  road.  It 
was  sold  by  Eamaru'n  Nisd,  the  cura- 
tor, in  A.H.  il96=A.D.  1781,  on  ac- 
count of  dilapidation,  to  T4ju'd-din, 
uncle  of  Fd^imah  Blgam,  the  heiress 
of  the  Bakhshl,  who  made  the  English 
her  heir,  and  Governor  Jonathan  Dun- 
can granted  a  pension  to  Hiiru'n  Nis4 
and  Fakh'ru'n  Nisd,  descendants  of  ^a- 
^ikat.  Mr.  T.  Hope,  who,  while  col- 
lector at  Surat,  improved  the  city  more 
than  anyone  else  had  done  before  or 
has  since,  applied  to  Government  for  this 
building,  and  by  a  Government  reso- 
lution of  the  11th  November,  1867,  it 
was  made  over  to  the  Municipality, 
and  Mr.  Hope  built  an  upper  room 
over  the  left  of  the  facade  as  you  enter 
for  meetings.  This  room  is  60  ft.  long, 
30  broad,  and  18  high.  Over  the 
portal  are  rooms  for  the  secretaries. 
The  room  cost  Bs.  29,000,  and  was 
opened  by  a  public  entertainment  on 
Oct.  12th,  1868.  The  Municipal  Re- 
cord says  that  Saiyid  ^usain  Idnis, 
C.S.I.,  is  Ki?!  of  Surat.  The  Re- 
cord also  mentions  that  Bargorji 
Eraser  gave  Rs.  7,600  towards  build- 
ing the  Clock  Tower  17th  August, 
1868,  when  the  station  road  from  the. 
castle  to  the  Dilli  gate  was  completed. 
This  road  is  }  of  a  m.  long.  The  car- 
riageway is  30  ft.  broad,  and  the  foot- 
way on  either  side  7  ft.  Total  44  ft. 
The  City  Survey  was  beg^un  on  the 
17th  of  June,  1866.  Every  tenement 
is  numbered  and  drawn  in  the  plan 


Sect.  IL 


ItoiUe  23. — SuraU 


317 


and  all  particulars  are  kept  in  a  regis- 
ter, and  the  owner  is  furnished  with  a 
deed  of  possession,  which  costs  Bs.  2. 
The  Municipal  office  is  in  the  Mughul 
Sardi,  and  is  the  highest  ground  in  the 
city,  being  111*88  ft.  above  datum, 
the  castle  well  being  the  datum.  Not 
far  from  the  riyer,  and  close  on  the 
river's  bank,  are  the  Mission  House 
and  Chapel.  To  the  S.  of  the  Mission 
Chapel  IS  the  English  Church,  the 
foundation-stone  of  which  was  laid  on 
the  6th  of  February,  1820,  by  Mr. 
Elphinstone.  The  church  was  opened 
in  1822,  and  was  consecrated  by  Bishop 
Heber  April  17th,  1825.  It  seats  100 
persons,  and  cost  £5,800.  The  Mission 
Chapel  waa  built  in  1835  by  Mr.  Fyvie, 
of  the  London  Missionary  Society,  and 
can  hold  about  500  persons.  Close  to 
the  Municipal  office,  on  the  £.,  is  the 
Machhlipeth  Quarter,  where  'the  ter- 
rible fire  of  1837  originated.  "  The 
conflagration,  within  a  few  hours, 
covered  an  area  of  3  m.  So  fierce  was 
the  fire,  that  when  night  closed  in, 
from  a  distance  of  20  to  30  m.  across 
the  Surat  plain  heavy  masses  of  smoke, 
lit  up  by  flashes  of  flame,  were  seen 
hanging  over  the  city.  At  daybreak 
on  Tuesday,  April  25th,  a  breeze  sprang 
up  from  the  S.  \V.  Before  it  the  flames 
speedily  forced  their  way  to  parts  of 
the  city  hitherto  deemed  safe.  Dash- 
ing suddenly  across  the  only  entrance 
to  the  Jh&mpa  while  the  men  were 
away  helping  in  another  part  of  the 
town,  the  flames  destroyed  the  hand- 
some dwellings  and  mosque  of  the 
BohorAs.  At  2  P.M.  on  Tuesday  the 
fire  was  at  its  height.  From  that  time 
it  declined.  When  it  was  over,  the 
bodies  of  49  dead  were  found,  but 
.many  others  perished  in  the  ruins. 
In  the  city  6,262  houses  were  burned, 
and  in  the  suburbs  3,123."  On  the 
29th  of  August  the  Taptl  flooded  the 
whole  city,  and  for  miles  covered  the 
country  like  a  sea.  In  December,  1838, 
Surat  was  the  shadow  of  what  it  had 
been,  |'s  of  the  city  having  been  anni- 
hilated. After  seeing  the  factories, 
the  traveller  will  drive  to  the  English 
Cemetery,  passing  a  minaret  58  ft.  high, 
erected  by  Saiyid  Idnis.  The  old 
tombs  are  huge,  di*eary,  gloomy  build- 


ings, too  crowded  to  look  well,  but  at 
the  far  end  the  ground  is  more  open, 
and  there  are  some  beautiful  trees. 
In  this  part  there  are  some  interesting 
epitaphs,  as  e,  g. : — 

In  Memory  of  the  Officers,  Non-commissioned 

Oillcers  and  Men, 

2nd  battalion  56th  West  Elssex  regiment 

Pompadours. 

Who  fell  in  Action  and  died  by  disease 

In  Gujarat  and  Surat, 

From  A.D.  1809  to  1815. 

Also  of 

329  Non-commissioned  Officers  and  Men 

Who  fell  victims  to  epidemic  fever 

At  Donias,  a.d.  1813  to  1824. 

Far  from  their  Native  Land 

They  rest  in  jieace. 

This  Monument  was  erected 

A.D.  1865, 

By  the  Officers,  Non-commissioned  Officers, 

and  Men, 

After  the  lapse  of  many  years, 

On  their  return  to  India. 

The  EnglUth  Cemetery  is  situated 
about  a  furlong  from  the  Variav  Gate, 
which  is  to  the  N.  of  the  city  and  on 
the  direct  road  to  Bhanich.  A  mean 
wooden  doorway  opens  upon  a  large 
expanse  of  broken  ground  covered  with 
weeds,  trees,  and  mouldering  tombs. 
On  the  right  is  the  superb  mausoleum 
of  Sir  Geoi-ge  Oxindon,*  or  Oxinden. 
The  tomb  of  his  brother  Christopher  is 
close  by,  and  a  small  tablet  of  white 
marble  in  a  niche  on  the  W.  wall  bears 
the  following  inscription,  according  to 
Briggst  :— 

Hie  situs  est  Christopherus  Oxinden,  probi- 

tatis 
Exemplum  vita,  sed  vitffi  morte  caducffi, 
Intrat  et  exit  hie  incepta  animamque  fluivit 
Ille  dies  tantum  numerare  lo^sta  valebat, 
Non  annos,  nam  raptim  excKit  mors  rationem. 
Quseritis,  O  Domini  I  quid  damni  vel  quid  ha- 

betis 
Lucri  vos  servum,  socium  nos,  perdidit  ille 
Vitam,  sed  per  contra  scribat  MOBS  MIH] 

LUCBUM. 

Exiit  e  vita  Aprilis  18, 1759. 

The  mausoleum  is  a  square  pile  40  ft. 
highij:  and  25  ft.  in  diameter,  with 
columns  at  each  angle.  At  the  E.  side 
are  stairs  which  lead  to  a  terrace  at  the 
top.     "Over  this  springs  a  skeleton 

*  The  former  mode  of  spelling  the  name  is 
that  used  by  sir  George  himself,  as  may  be 
seen  in  the  Becords  at  the  India  Office. 

t  The  copyist  has  made  some  gross  errors. 
One  or  two  of  these  have  been  corrected  in 
the  transcript. 

♦  *•  Calcutta  Beview,"  vol.  Ix.,  p.  125. 


318 


RoiUe  23. — Bombay  to  Surat. 


Sect  II. 


dome  of  masonr}',*  in  the  form  of  a 
Maltese  cross  rendered  convex,"  which 
is  intended  to  commemorate  Sir  Geoige, 
and  r  lower  dome  is  to  the  memory  of 
his  brother.  There  is  here  a  tablet 
formed  of  two  separate  pieces  of 
marble,  on  which'  is  the  following 
inscription  to  Sir  George  : — 

Interrogas,  Amice  liector ! 
Quid  sibi  vult  grandior  hsBc  structura  ?    Re- 

sponsuiu  habe. 
Ill  hoc  gloriatur  satis  quod  alteram  illam  gran- 

dem  continet. 

Superbit  iiisuper  quod  una  cum  ill&  tegit  gene- 

rosos  duos  fratres 

Fraterrimos 

Qui  et  in  vivis  fuerint  et  etiam  in  mortuis  sunt 

(luam  coigunctissimi. 

Alterum  velis  intelligas?  lege  alibi. 

Intelligas  velis  alterum  ?  lege  liic. 

Dominus  Georgius  Ozinden  Cantianus 

Filius  natu  tertius  D.  Jacobi  Oxinden  Equitis, 

Ipse  equestri  dignitate  omatus 

Anglorum  in  India,  Persia,  ArabiA,  Pra'^ses, 

Insulffi  Bombayensis  Gubemator, 

Ab  Dlustrl  Bocletate  pro  qua  preesidebat  et 

gubernabat 

Ob  maxima  sua  et  repetita  in  earn  meiita 

Singular!  lavori  et  gratitudinis  specimiue 

honestatus. 

Vir 

Sanguinis  splendore,  rerum  usu, 

Fortitudine,  prudentift,  probitate 

Peremmentissimus 

Cum  plurimorum  luctu,  obijt  Julvj  14° 

Cum  plurimorum  frequentiil  sepultus  est 

Julij  15' 

Anno  Domini  1069, 

Anno  ^tatis  50, 

Heus  Lector ! 

Ex  magiio  hoc  viro,  vel  mortuo  aliquid 

l»rotifias. 

It  has  been  well  remarked  that  this 
pompous  epitaph  and  grand  mausoleum 
contrast  strangely  with  the  paltry 
allowances  of  the  Governor  whose 
memory  they  record.  His  pay  was 
£300  a-year,  with  £200  as  a  compensa- 
tion for  foregoing  the  privilege  of 
private  trade.  A  less  ostentatious 
tomb  marks  the  resting-place  of  Pre- 
sident Breton.  It  bears  a  Latin  in- 
scription, which  may  be  thus  trans- 
lated : — "  Stranger,  pause  (if,  at  least, 
you  are  a  Christian),  pause,  I  say,  for 
a  little  while,  nor  will  it  be  in  vain. 
For  you  will  know  that  here  lieth 
Francis  Breton,  Chief  for  the  Honor- 
able Company  of  English  merchants 
trading  to  the  East,  who,  when  for 

•  "  Cities  of  Qi^arashtra,"  p.  36. 


five  years  he  had,  with  the  greatest 
diligence  and  strictest  integrity,  com- 
pleted his  duties,  complete  his  life. 
He  went  unmarried  to  the  heavenly 
nuptials,  in  the  year  of  Christ,  1649, 
on  the  21st  of  July.  It  'is  enough, 
stranger,  for  you  to  know  this,  expend 
but  one  tear,  and  depart."  Other 
inscriptions  on  various  tombs  are 
as  follows : — Stephen  Colt,*  late  Pre- 
sident r»f  Surat.  Died  2d  May,  1708. 
^t.  45.— Bernard  Wyche,  Esq.,  Chief 
of  Surat.  Died  a.d.  1736. — ^James 
Hope,  Esq.,  Chief  for  affairs  of  the 
British  nation  in  Surat.  Died  6th  Joly . 
1747.  JEt.  47.— William  Andrew 
Price,  Esq.,  late  Chief  of  Surat.  Died 
11th  March,  1774.— Mary  Ellis,  wife 
of  Brabazon  Ellis,  Esq.,  Chief  of  the 
English  Factory  in  Surat.  Died  4th 
October,  1756.  Mi.  .S6.  And,  Frances 
Jones,  wife  to  William  Jones,  Esq., 
Conmiodore  of  the  East  India  Com- 
pany's Marine,  at  Bombay.  Died  13tlL 
November,  1756.  ^Et.  34.  The  tomb 
of  Mr.  W.  A.  Price  is  very  elegant,  as 
is  that  of  his  wife,  on  which  is  the 
following  inscription : — 

"  In  memory  of  Mary  Price,  wife  of  William 
Andrew  Price,  esq.,  Chief  for  Afiairs  of  the 
British  Nation,  and  Governor  of  the  Mughal 
Castle  and  fleet  of  Surat,  who,  through  tlie 
spotted  veil  of  the  small-pox,  rendered  a  pure 
and  unspotted  soul  to  God,  experiencing  death, 
which  ended  her  days  April  the  13th,  Anno 
Domini  17G1.    iGtatis  suai  23." 

The  virtues  wliich  in  her  short  life  were  shewn 
Have  equal'd  been  by  few,  surimss'd  by  none. 

Over  Mr.  Annesley's  children  is  a 
monument,  with  the  following  inscrip- 
tions : — 

Hicjacit 

Samuel  Evance  Annesley, 

Honorabilis  Viri 

Samuelis  Annesley,  Angli — 

Et  Susanntt  Uxoris  ejus,  Ulius ; 

Natus  Mart  18  a.d.  1097-8. 

Variolis  corruptus  eodam  die  An.  1702. 

Mortuus  die  21. 

Hie  etiam  Jacit 

Frater  ejus  Cuesar  Aimesley, 

Natus  8vo.  Maij,  1700, 

Morbo  spasmi  30  July  sequentis 

Mortuus 

Cum  Deobus  abortivis. 


•  According  to  Briggs,  p.  00,  President  Colt 
added  IxiU  to  his  name ;  but  this  does  not 
appear  from  his  signatures.  Perlmps  late  has 
been  mistaken  for  au  additional  name. 


Sect.  II. 


BorUe  23. — Surat, 


319 


There  arc  also  monuments  to  the 
memory  of  Captain  A.  Forbes,  of  the 
Bengal  Army,  who  died  on  the  16th  of 
February,  1780,  and  Mr.  W.  Wilkins, 
Collector  of  Bhanich,  nephew  of  Sir  C. 
Wilkins,  the  celebrated  Orientalist,  and 
himself  no  mean  scholar.  He  died  oa 
the  30th  of  November,  1820. 

To  visit  the  Dutch  Cemetery,  turn 
off  to  the  right,  just  before  the  minaret 
erected  by  Saiyid  Idriis.  This  ceme- 
tery is  in  a  terrible  state  of  decay. 
The  paved  entrance  has  been  broken 
np,  which  makes  access  difficult.  The 
gardener's  hut  is  on  the  left  of  the 
entrance ;  he  gets  no  pay,  and  sup- 
ports himself  by  selling  the  fruit  of 
the  trees  that  grow  amongst  the  tombs. 
The  most  striking  monument  is  that 
of  Baron  Van  Heede,  called  the 
Maecenas  of  Malabar.  He  made  valu- 
able collections  of  books  and  curiosi- 
ties, which  he  sent  to  Holland,  and  is 
the  author  of  the  *■'■  Hortus  Indus  Ma- 
labaricus,"  in  12  vols,  folio.  His  tomb 
was  built  with  the  intention  of  eclips- 
ing that  of  Sir  George  Oxindon's,  and 
is  in  shape  a  decagon,  with  a  double 
cupola  of  great  dimensions,  and  a 
gallery  above  and  below,  supported  on 
handsome  columns.  It  was  formerly 
adorned  with  frescoes,  escutcheons, 
and  passages  from  Scripture,  and  the 
windows  were  filled  with  much  beau- 
tiful wood  carving.  The  cost  is  not 
known,  but  a  bill  exists  in  which  the 
Butch  Company  are  charged  Bs.  6,000 
for  mere  repairs.  In  the  centre  of  the 
chamber  is  a  vault  with  a  tombstone. 
2  of  the  niches  round  this  chamber  have 
wooden  tablets,  and  one  inscribed  on 
the  wall  is  the  Dutch  epitaph  of  Van 
Beede,  who  died,  aged  56,  on  the  15th 
of  December,  1691. 

To  the  S.E.  of  the  Dutch  cemetery 
is  the  Armenian,  a  field  of  6  acres, 
with  a  cluster  of  graves  at  the  W.  end. 
The  slabs  have  Armenian  epitaphs, 
with  carvings  of  2  cherubs,  and  a 
candlestick.  Near  the  doorway  is  an 
open  cesspool,  and  it  is  difficult  to 
fancy  a  more  painful  sight  than  these 
2  cemeteries  in  their  neglected  state. 

The  chief  places  of  Muslim  worship 
are — 1.  KhwAjah  Diwdn  SAhib's 
mosque,  built  about  1530.    The  said 


personage  is  said  to  have  come  to 
Surat  from  Bukhdrd,  and  to  have 
lived  to  the  age  of  116.  He  is  buried 
in  the  mosque,  and  a  large  fair  is  held 
to  his  honor  once  a  year.  2.  The  Nau 
Saiyid  Mosque,  "  Mosque  of  the  Nine 
Saiyids,"  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  Gopl 
Lake.  3.  The  Saiyid  Idnlis  Mosque, 
in  Saiyidpiira,  with  a  minaret,  one  of 
the  most  conspicuous  objects  in  Surat, 
was  built  in  1639,  in  honor  of  the 
ancestor  of  the  present  Kdzl  of  Surat. 
This  ancestor  is  said  to  have  come  to 
Surat  in  1564,  and  died  in  1622.  4. 
The  MirzA  S4mi  Mosque,  buUt  1540, 
by  Khuddwand  Khdn,  who  built  the 
castle.  There  is  a  handsome  carved 
tomb.  There  are  2  chief  Parsi  fire- 
temples,  one  built  by  the  Shdhanshdhi 
P4rsls,  in  Nov.,  1823,  and  the  other  by 
the  Kadmis,  in  Dec.  of  that  year.  The 
Hindii  sect  of  the  Walabhachdris  has 
3  temples.  The  Sw^uul  Ndr^yan 
temple,  with  3  white  domes,  is  visible 
all  over  the  city.  In  the  2  old  temples 
in  the  Ambaji  ward  the  shrines  are 
15  ft.  underground,  a  relic  of  Muham- 
madan  persecution.  The  Shrdvaks,  or 
Jains,  have  42  temples,  the  chief  of 
which  are  from  150  to  200  years  old. 
The  2  chief  hospitals  are  that  on  the 
Castle  Green,  for  80  in- door  patients, 
built  at  the  sole  cost  of  Sir  Kdiisji 
Jahdngir,  who  gave  for  it  Bs.  71,900, 
and  that  on  the  N.  side  of  the  Dilli 
gate  road  for  12  indoor  patients.  In 
or  near  Surat  are  4  hospitals  for  ani- 
mals, where  1000  head  of  cattle  can  be 
taken  in.  The  sick  are  treated  with 
medicine,  the  feeble  are  sent  to  graze, 
the  healthy  and  those  born  in  the  hos- 
pital bring  grass  and  do  other  light 
work.  Of  Ovington's  Hospital  for  In- 
sects, where  "  a  poor  man  was  now 
and  then  hired  to  rest  all  night  upon 
a  cot  and  let  the  animals  feed  on  his 
carcass,"  the  only  trace  is  a  loft  where 
vermin  are  collected  and  fed  on  grain. 
The  average  daily  consumption  is  2100 
bundles  of  grass  and  124  lbs.  of  grain. 
Dogs,  kc.  are  fed  with  milk  and  bread. 
On  the  12th  of  January  all  are  feasted 
on  millet  flour,  molasses,  clarified  but- 
ter, and  milk. 

Sport, — Surat  used  to  be  a  renowned 
place  for  hog-hunting,  but  the  hog  have 


320 


Boute  24. — Surat  to  Baroda, 


Sect.  11. 


disappeared,  and  there  is  very  little 
shooting  to  be  got  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  the  city.  For  tiger-shooting, 
parties  have  to  proceed  a  considerable 
distance  to  the  hills  on  the  E.  and  S.E. ; 
but  a  few  years  ago  a  tiger  was  killed 
by  Mr.  Rogers,  late  Member  of  Council, 
in  a  house  in  the  suburbs  of  Surat, 
where  it  was  about  to  make  a  meal  on 
a  woman.  There  are  very  large  fish  in 
the  river,  and  numerous  alligators ;  one 
someway  up  the  river  was  killed  not 
long  ago,  18  ft.  long,  which  had  a  large 
monkey  in  his  stomach. 


ROUTE   24. 

SUEAT  TO  BABODA. 


Dist.  from 
Kol&ba. 


Stations. 


Time. 


Miles. 
167 
169] 
175) 
18lj 
191} 
198 
203^ 

211 

219i 
229 

236 
247i 


Surat . 

Amroli  . 

Sdyan . 

Kim 

Fanoli 

Ankleshwar  . 

Bhanlich  (BroaehX 


Chamai^on  . 
P&leJ  . 
Miyagiou 
Miyagaoii  . 
ItoU      . 
Baroda 


arr, 
dep 


A.  H. 

8.55 

9.  7 

9.33 

9.58 

10.38 

11.  8 

11.45 

P.M. 

12.15 

12.55 

1.30 

1.40 

2.10 

2.50 


Baroda  itself  has  a  population  of 
112,067.  It  is  the  capital  of  a  very  im- 
portant Mardtha  state,  which  has  an 
area  of  4399  sq.  m.,  and  a  pop.  of 
2,000,225,  being  454*70  persons  to  the 
sq.  m.  There  are  now  4  principal  pro- 
vinces or  JPrdnts,  each  governed  by  a 
Subhd,  under  whom  are  10  deputies,  to 
whom    arc    entnisted     subdivisions. 


There  are  31  Taluks  or  districts,  each 
presided  over  by  a  Tal^slldir  ;  10  of 
these  are  so  large  that  they  are  formed 
into  subdivisions,  each  under  a  deputy 
Ta^sfldir.    The  origin  of  this  state 
dates  from  A.D.  1720,  when  Pildji Gdek- 
wdd,  a  captain  of  Mar^t^a  horse,  in- 
vaded N.  Gujardt,  and  obtained  part  of 
the  Chauth  there.    In  1731  PilAjl  was 
defeated  and  grievously  wounded  by 
B4j4  B&o  Peshwd,  and  his  eldest  son 
Saydjf  was  killed,  but  Pildji  was  sub- 
sequently appointed  guardian  to  Yesh- 
want  R4o  D^bhdde,  with  the  duty  of 
collecting  the  Chauth  of  Gujar&t,  and 
had  the  title  of  Send  Khds  Khail,  or 
"  commander-in-chief,"   bestowed   on 
I  him.    In  1732  Pildji  was  assassinated 
I  by  a  Mdrwddi  sent  by  Abhy  Sing  Ma- 
hdrdjd  of  Jodbpiir.  He  was  succeeded 
by  his  eldest  son  Ddmdjf ,  who  not  only 
I  took  many  important  places  in  Guja- 
'  r4t,  but  pushed  on  to  Jodhpi!ir,  and  so 
obliged  Abhy  Sing  to  return  to  his 
own  capital.    Miimin  Khdn,  Viceroy 
of  Gujardt,  who  succeeded  Abhy  Sing 
in  1737,  purchased  Ddmdji's  alliance 
by  ceding  to  him  nearly  one  half  of 
the   produce  of    Gujarat.    In   1751, 
Ddm^jl  led  an  army  of  15,000  men  to 
assist  T4rd  Bdl,  who  was  at  war  with 
the  Peshwd.     D&mdji  was,  however, 
treacherously  seized  by  the  Peshwii 
and  imprisoned  at  Pun^  He  succeeded 
however  after  a  time  in  making  terms 
and  returned  to  Gujarat.  He  was  pre- 
sent at  the  battle  of  Pdnipat,  and  his 
troops,  with  those  of  Ibrahim  Khdn, 
destroyed  8000  Bohillas  on  that  day. 
Ddmdjl  returned  safe  from  the  battle. 
He  subsequently  made  many  import- 
ant conquests,  but  having  joined  Ra- 
ghundth  Rdo   and   sent   a   body  of 
cavalry  to  assist  him  under  Govind 
£&o,  his  eldest  son,  his  troops  were 
defeated,  and  Raghundth  and  Govind 
R&o  were  both    taken    prisoners    to 
Pund.    For  this  rebellion  Ddmdji  was 
fined  Hs.  2,325,000,  and  his  arrears  of 
tribute  were  fixed  at  Rs.  1,576,000.  In 
1768  D4m&ji  died  frOm  an  accident 
which  happened  to  him  while  making 
chemical  experiments.  A  struggle  then 
ensued  amongst  his  sons  Govind  R&o, 
Sdydji  Rdo,  Fat^  Sing,  and  Mdndji. 
In  1778,  1779,  and  1782,  agreements 


I 


Sect  11. 


Etyute  24. — Baroda, 


321 


were  made  between  Fat^  Bing  and 
the  Pe8hw4 ;  bat  on  the  26th  of  Janu- 
ary, 1780,  he  made  a  treaty  with  Col. 
Gkiddard,  by  which  he  was  to  be  inde- 
pendent of  the  Peshw^,  and  Gtoddard 
having  taken  A^mad^b^  on  the  1 5th 
of  Feb.,  1780,  handed  it  oyer  to  Fat^ 
Sing,  who  aided  the  British  with  5000 
caTalry  commanded  by  his  brother 
M^n^jl.  Fat^  Sing  died  Dec.  21st, 
1789,  and  M&ndjl  was  made  regent  by 
the  Pan4  Darb^.  He  died  on  August 
Ist,  1793,  and  N^nAFamdvis  resolved 
to  ruin  the  Gdekwdd  family,  and  would 
have  done  so,  but  for  the  intervention 
of  the  British,  who  obliged  him  to 
leave  their  possessions  intact.  Govind 
Kdo  then  succeeded  and  was  made 
Send  Khds  Khali  on  the  19th  of  Dec., 
1793.  Fat^  Sing  had  introduced  mer- 
cenary troops,  but  Govind  Bdo  in- 
creased them  until  they  numbered 
13,126  infantry  and  3781  cavalry,  and 
was  becoming  much  embarrassed  by 
them,  when  he  died  on  Sept.  19th, 
1800.  Anand  R4o,  Govind's  eldest  son, 
succeeded,  with  Fatb  Sing  as  regent. 
Meantime,  the  mercenaries,  particu- 
larly the  Arabs,  had  raised  such  trou- 
bles, that  the  Bombay  Government 
was  obliged  to  send  up  Major  Walker 
with  20W)  troops.  These  were  subse- 
quently increased  to  6000,  under  Sir 
W.  Clarke,  who  captured  the  camp  of 
the  opposing  party  on  the  30th  April, 
1802.  On  the  29th  of  July  in  that  year 
a  treaty  was  made,  by  which  it  was 
agreed  that  the  Arabs  should  be  dis- 
banded, and  replaced  by  2000  British 
Sipdhis  and  a  battery  of  European  artil- 
lery, to  be  paid  by  the  GdekwAd.  This 
treaty  deprived  the  Peshwa  of  all  but 
nominal  suzerainty  over  the  Gdekwdd. 
Major  Walker  was  installed  as  Resident 
at  Baroda  on  the  11th  of  July,  1802. 
The  Arabs  now  broke  out  into  open 
mutiny,  and  on  Dec.  18th  were  at- 
tacked by  the  British  troops,  but  after 
some  fighting,  in  which  the  British 
lost  7  officers  and  150  men  killed  and 
wounded,  the  Arabs  evacuated  the 
fort.  Some  other  fighting  took  place 
outside  the  city,  but  Col.  Walker  gra- 
dually quieted  the  country,  and,  on 
the  16th  of  May,  1808,  settled  the 
Gdekwdd's   revenue    in    KAthiawAd. 

[^omJay— 1880.] 


The  regent,  Fatb  Sing,  died  on  June 
23rd,  1818,  and  was  succeeded  by 
Saydjl,  his  younger  brother.  On  the 
2nd  of  October,  1819,  Anand  Mo 
died,  and  Sdydji  became  Gdekwdd. 
Under  this  Prince  great  differences 
arose  between  him  and  the  Bombay 
Government,  and  for  some  years,  por- 
tions of  the  GdekwAd's  territories  were 
sequestrated,  but  the  points  of  dis- 
agreement were  all  settled  on  the  1st 
of  February,  1841,  Sir  James  Camac 
having  come  up  for  the  express  pur- 
pose of  bringing  about  a  satisfactory 
arrangement,  Sdydji  died  on  the  28th 
of  Dec,  1847,  and  was  succeeded  by 
Ganpat  Rdo,  his  eldest  son.  Ganpat 
RAo  died  on  the  19  th  of  November, 
1856,  and  was  succeeded  by  his  brother 
Khand^  Rdo,  who  was  a  man  of  great 
bodily  strength,  and  passionately  fond 
of  hunting.  In  the  Mutiny  of  1857, 
no  Prince  showed  himself  more  loyal 
and  more  zealous  to  co-operate  with 
the  English  than  this  GAekwdd,  in 
consideration  of  whose  services  the 
payment  of  3  Idkhs  for  the  mainte- 
nance of  the  Gujardt  Irregular  Horse 
was  remitted.  A  present  of  fans  made 
of  peacocks'  feathers,  a  mark  of  royal- 
ty, was  also  given  to  him.  and  in  a 
Sanad  dated  March  11, 1862,  the  right 
of  adoption  was  conferred  upon  him. 
In  1857  the  chiefs  of  Okhamandal  re- 
belled against  the  GdekwA^,  but  were 
put  down  by  the  British  after  a  tedious 
war,  which  lasted  till  1868.  Khand6 
RAo  died  suddenly  on  the  20th  Nov., 

1870,  and  was  succeeded  by  his  brother 
MaUiArR^.  This  Prince  had  been  im- 
plicated in  an  attempt  to  plunder  Al?- 
maddbdd  and  to  depose  Khand6  Rao, 
and  in  1863  he  conspired  to  kill  his 
brother  by  poison.  For  this  he  was 
imprisoned  in  PAdrd,  near  Baroda.  In 
1867,  a  fresh  conspiracy  against 
Khand^R&o  was  detected.  Some  of  the 
conspirators  were  trampled  to  death 
by  elephants,  but  the  Bntish  extracted 
a  promise  that  this  should  be  the  last 
execution  of  the  kind.  The  widow  of 
Ehaiid^  RAo,  Jamnd  B4f ,  gave  birth  to 
a  posthumous  child  on  the  5th  of  July, 

1871.  This  child  was  TdrA  Bdl,  who 
was  married  this  year  to  the  chief  of 
SAwantwAdl.    On  the  18th  of  March, 


322 


JRoiUe  24. — Surat  to  Baroda, 


Sect.  IL 


1873,  Col.  Phayi'C  arrived  at  Barodaas 
Besident,  and  an  attempt  was  made  to 
poison  him  in  1874,  on  which  Malhir 
Rdo  was  tried,  deposed,  and  on  the 
22nd  of  April,  1875,  deported  to  Ma- 
dras,  where  he  now  is.    Onthe2ndof 
May,  1875,  Jamn4  B^,  who  had  been 
terrified  into  leaving  Baroda,  returned, 
and  on  the  27th,  adopted  the  present 
Gdekwdd  Sdjdji  fi^,  and  on  the  1st 
of  January,  1877,  the  title  of  Farzand 
i  Khds  i  Daulat  i  Inglesia,  "  own  fa> 
voured  son  of  the  British  Empire," 
was  conferred  upon  liim.   On  the  16th 
of  May,  1875,   Sir  T.  MAdava  R4o, 
K.C.S.I.,  was  installed  as  minister.  He 
had  acted  as  professor  of  mathematics 
and  natural  philosophy  at  the  Madras 
University,  and  had  subsequently  been 
DiwAn  to  the  Mah^djd  of  Travankor. 
H.H.  Sdydji  RAo  had  been  proved  to 
be  of  the  64ekwdd's  family  by  records 
left  with  the  family  Upddhya  at  NA- 
shik.     The  Residency   at  Baroda  is 
situated  at  the  S.  extremity  of  the  can- 
tonment, 300  yds.  to  the  E.  of  the  Rewa 
Kdnthd.    The  T.B.  is  250  yds.  E.  by  N. 
of  the  Residency  Compound.   Just  be- 
fore reaching  the  T.B.  there  is  an  open 
spot  where  4  roads  meet ;  here  there 
is  an  elegant  piUar  28 J  ft.  high,  on 
which  it  was  intended  to  place  a  sta- 
tue of  Mr.  Williams,  a  former  Resi- 
dent.   The  statue  arrived  at  the  Bom- 
bay Custom  House,  but  as  no    one 
enquired  about  it  for  years,  it  was 
made  away  with  by  some  one  and  dis- 
appeared altogether.    The  pillar  is  of 
Songadh  stone,  of  which  the  Gdek- 
wAd's  new  palace  is  being  built ;  Son- 
gadh is  in  the  hills  S.E.  of  Baroda,  and 
was  the   stronghold   of   the  earliest 
Pesh  wds.  The  European  lines  are  to  the 
E.  of  the  pillar  ;  tbe  N.I.  lines  to  the 
K.E.  at  a  distance  of  about  1200  yds. 
The  church  is  700  yds.  to  the  E.  by  N. 
of  the  T.B. ;  the  cemetery  is  a  few 
hundred  yds.  to  the  W.  of  the  Resi- 
dency. The  city  of  Baroda  is  to  the  E. 
by  S.  of  the  cantonments,  about  1  m. 
off.  The  Wiswdmintri,  properly  Wish- 
wamitri,  river  forms  the  E.  boundary 
of  the  cantonment.    The  church  is  a 
plain   building,  nearly  opposite  the 
Magistrate's  office,  in  which  Malhdr 
Rdo  was  tried.  Tablets  to  the  memory 


of  Col.  J.  Tumly  Barr,  Political  Resi- 
dent at  Baroda ;  to  Col.  W.  K.  Lester, 
of  the  Artillery ;  and  to  James  Suther- 
land, Resident  at  the  court  of  H.H.  the 
Giekw4d,  who  died  June  10th,  1840, 
are  on  the  church  walls.    The  church 
can  seat  400  persons,  cost  Rs.  12,000, 
and  was  consecrated  by  Heber  (see  his 
Ti-avels,  vol.  ii.  p.  98),  March  20, 1824. 
In  the  cemetery  are  several  interesting 
epitaphs  :  one  is  to  Algernon  Langton, 
Esq.,  of  Langton,  in  Lincolnshire,  who 
died  at  Baroda,  June  15th,  1835,  aged 
31,  from  wounds  received  in  an  en- 
counter with  a  royal  tiger  at  the  neigh- 
bouring village  of  Jinilir;  another  is 
to  Major  Lewis  Brown,  5th  Bombay 
Light  Infantry, ''  the  Defender  of  Ed- 
han,"  who  died  July  16th,  1851.  There 
is  also  one  to  Lt.-Col.  D.  A.  Malcolm, 
Resident  at  Baroda,  who  died  October 
1st,  1855.    H.H.  the  Gdekwdd  main- 
tains the  state  due  to  his  rank,  but  his 
palaces  are  not  worthy  of  his  position. 
A  new  palace  is  in  process  of  erection. 
It  is  to  cost  £200,000,  and  is  to  be 
built  in  the  Indo- Saracenic  style,  by 
Col.  Mant,  R.E.     It  will  be  a  vast 
building,  500  ft.  long,  with  a  tower  200 
ft.  high.    The  site  is  not  far  from  the 
Race  Course,  and  to  the  E.  of  the  Re- 
sidency.   H.H.  married  in  the  begin- 
ning of  this  year  a  Princess  of  the 
Tanjiir  family,  and  is  thus  allied  to 
the  house  of  Shivaji.  At  the  marriage 
many  chiefs  and  the  Governor  and 
magnates  of  Bombay  were  entertained 
in  princely  style,  and  combats  of  ele- 
phants and  buffaloes  were  exhibited, 
with  many  other  games.  There  is  good 
black  buck  shooting  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  Baroda,  and  tigers  and  pan- 
thers are  to  be  found  a  few  m.  off  near 
the  bed  of  the  Mahl  river. 

The  Garden  Residence  at  the  Najjar 
Bd{^  and  also  the  Menagerie  may  be 
visited.  The  road  to  the  Cantonment 
from  the  city  of  Baroda  is  very  good, 
has  been  widened,  and  is  kept  in  good 
order.  The  land  being  low  the  whole 
way  from  the  city,  and  liable  to  inun- 
dations from  the  river,  it  has  been  ne- 
cessary to  carry  the  road  on  an  em- 
bankment, which  is  in  some  places  8 
ft.  above  the  land  on  either  side.  The 
river,  and  a  large  n&ld  leading  into  it, 


Sect;  IL 


EmUe  24. — Baro 


are  crossed  by  strong  substantial 
bridges  of  stone  and  brick.  That  over 
the  Tidld  is  a  very  beautiful  bridge  of 
oBeamfa,  with  a  large  circular  opening 
on  either  side.  It  was  erected  in  1826 
by  the  late  General  Waddington,  C.B., 
at  the  expense  of  SayAji  K4o  GAek- 
w4d.  It  is  faced  with  a  handsome  yel- 
low sandstone  brought  from  a  range  of 
hills  30  m.  to  the  S.E.  The  interior  is 
of  brick.  Not  many  yards  further  up 
the  ndld  is  another  stone  and  brick 
bridge,  similar  to  the  old  native  bridge 
which  crosses  the  river  300  yds.  nearer 
the  city,  having  two  ranges  of  arches 
one  over  the  other,  which  Forbes* 
mentions  as  the  only  bridge  of  the 
kind  he  ever  saw  in  India.  The  main 
road  from  the  city  to  the  Cantonment 
passes  through  the  officers' lines,  while 
another  to  the  left  branches  off  to  the 
Residency.  There  is  a  drive  of  3  m. 
round  the  Cantonment. 

The  Bdoris,  in  Gujardtl    Vdva^is 
(Bowrees),  Large  Wells  near  Baroda, 
are  the  principal  sights  of  the  place. 
The  following  account  of  these  struc- 
tures   is   given    by  Mr.  A.  Kinlocjh 
Forbes,  in  his  interesting  work  on  Gu- 
jarat, the  Bag  Maid  :  f— "  Of  the  wells 
of  this  period  there  remain  in  different 
parts  of  the  countiy  examples  of  two 
kinds.     Some  are  lai'ge  circular  wells 
of  ordinary  construction,  but  contain- 
ing galleried  apartments  ;  others  are 
more  properly  described  as  "  7vdvs*'  or 
"  hdolis."     The  wdv  is  a  large  edifice, 
of  a  picturesque  and  stately,  as  well 
as  peculiar,  character.  Above  the  level 
of  the  ground  a  row  of  4  or  5  open  pa- 
vilions, at  regular  distances  from  each 
other,  usaally  square  on  the  interior, 
but  sometimes,  in  the  larger  examples, 
passing  into  the  octagonal  form  with- 
in, is  alone  visible  ;  the  roofs  are  sup- 
ported on  colu nins,  and  are,  in  the  struc- 
tures of  the  Hindii  times,  pyramidal  in 
form.    The  entrance  to  the  wdv  is  by 
one  of  the  end  jjavilions  ;   thence  a 
flight  of  steps  descends  to  a  landing 
immediately  under  the  second  dome, 
which  is  now  seen  to  be  supported  by 
two  rows  of  columns,  one  over  the 

'^  "  Oriental  Memoirs,"  vol.  ii.  p.  287. 
.      t  Vol.  i.  p.  266. 


Other.  A  second  flight  of  steps  con- 
tinues the  descent  to  a  similar  landing 
under  the  third  pavilion,  where  the 
screen  is  found  to  be  three  columns  iii 
height.  In  this  manner  the  descent 
continues  stage  by  stage,  the  number 
of  the  columns  increasing  at  each  pa- 
vilion, until  the  level  of  the  water  is  at 
last  reaehed.  The  last  flight  of  steps 
frequently  conducts  to  an  octagonal 
structure,  in  this  position  necessarily 
several  stories  high,  and  containing  a 
gaUery  at  each  story.  It  is  covered 
by  the  terminating  dome,  and  is  the 
most  adorned  portion  of  the  wdv.  The 
structure,  which  is  somelimes  80  yds. 
in  length,  invariably  terminates  in  a 
circular  well." 

The  largest  of  these  wells  near  Ba- 
roda is  a  magnificent  work,  and  from 
having  cost  9  lakhs  of  niplyahs  is 
called  Aauldkhi.  There  is  the  followiuff 
inscnption  over  the  portal  :— 

In  the  name  of  the  most  merciful  God. 
Ihere  is  no  God  but  God, 

J  afar  K!:,i„  ^  leeroy  of  Gnjarat,  was  great, 
successful,  and  mighty  in  battle.  BarodiTas 
under  Ins  rule;  he  was  the  most  noble  of 
nobles  and  honoui-ed  with  the  most  honour- 

mt  ^'h'i'"  ^^-^^^  ^^^*-  By  his  favor  Sulai. 
niAn,  his  chief  miuist€r,  was  appointed 
Governor  of  Banxia;  where,  by  the  blessing 
of  God,  he  amassed  great  riches,  and  employed 
them  111  works  of  charity  and  beneflcenck  By 
luiu  this  work  of  admirable  beauty  and 
strength  was,  by  the  Divine  permission,  com- 
pleted on  the  first  of  the  month  Riyab  a.h. 

The  water  of  this  well  is  excellent,  and 
is  ill  much  request. 


324      ItotUe  25. — Baroda  to  Champanir  and  Paioangadh.    Sect.  II. 


ROUTE  26. 

BABODA  TO  GHAMPANiB  AND 
PAWANGADH. 

The  mountain  of  Pawangadh,  or, 
Pawaga^h,  one  of  the  most  remark- 
able in  Gujar&t,i8  seen  quite  dis- 
tinctly from  Baroda  to  the  N.E. 
The  ruined  city  of  Champanir  lies 
2  m.  to  the  N.E.  of  Pawangadh. 
The  distance  from  Baroda  as  the  crow 
flies  is  30  m.,  but  the  distance  tra- 
velled to  reach  Champanir  is  38  m., 
and  it  takes  from  6  to  8  hours  with  the 
best  bullocks  to  make  the  journey.  Of 
course,  on  horseback  with  relays,  the 
expedition  would  occupy  much  less 
time,  but  the  sun  is  too  powerful  for 
ordinary  travellers  to  go  in  any  way 
but  a  covered  conveyance,  and  horses 
could  with  difficulty  be  procured.  The 
mountain  has  a  singular  appearance 
from  Baroda,  rising  up  as  it  does  iso- 
lated from  a  level  plain.  Seen  at  that 
distance  it  is  a  vast  blue  mass  ascend- 
ing from  the  horizon,  and  it  is  not  till 
between  the  2nd  and  3rd  stages  that 
its  features  become  clear.  One  sees 
then  that  there  are  3  well  xnarked  and 
distinct  scarps  one  above  another,  and 
above  these,  what  appears  to  be  a  cita- 
del. This  is  a  platform  about  100  yds. 
long,  and  70  broad,  with  a  scarp  of  £rom 
200  to  300  ft.  on  which  is  the  temple  of 
M&h&  Kdli,  the  Hecate  of  the  Hindiis. 
The  stages  are  as  follows  : — 


From 

To 

MUes. 

Baroda         .    . 
AmliyAra . 
Jerol    .       .    . 
Kangari    . 
Pairanga4h .    . 

Amliyara     .    . 

Jerol 

Kangari       .    . 

Pawangadh 

Champanir  .    . 

Total    .    . 

10 

10 

10 

6 

2 

88 

Leaving  the  Residency,  or  the  T.  B., 
the  road  at  first  goes  B.  past  the  sol- 
diers* quarters,  and  then  past  the  lines 
of  the  N.  I.  After  this  the  road  be- 
comes a  mere  village  track,  full  of 
ruts  a  foot  or  more  deep,  and  holes, 


and  so  narrow  that  the  bullock-cart 
rubs  against  the  thorns  on  either  side. 
At  about  2  m.  pass  the  village  of  Se- 
man,  and  then  by  a  bridge  across  t^e 
Mi^  river.     Before  reaching  Jerol, 
pass  the  large  village  of  Amrol,  with 
a  weedy  tank  on  the  right    Cultiva- 
tion is  abundant  up  to  the  3rd  stage, 
where  jungle  commences,  and  is  thick 
2  m.  from  Champanir.     For  the  last 
m.  before  this  you  pass  several  rained 
pavilions,  with  domes  supported  by  4: 
pillars.    On  the  left  hand  pass  the 
shrine  of  a  saint  with  large  trees  near 
it.     At  2  m.  from  Champanir  pass 
through  an  archway  with  a  ruined 
wall  on  either  side,  on  to  a  road  paved 
with  large,  jagged  stones.    On  the  left 
hand  is  the  wall  of  the  fortification, 
with  ruined  bastions  at  intervals.    A 
short  way  after  this  turn  to  the  left  and 
pass  through  the  double  gate  of  the 
fortification,  built  of  stone  up  to  20  ft. 
and  then  of  red  bricks  much  worn  by 
time.     The  arch  of   the  gateway  is 
18  ft  high,  and  has   ornaments  on 
either  side  of  squares  containing  the 
lotus  flower.    There  is  an  Arabic  in- 
scription  in  alto  -  rilievo.       Passing 
through  this  gateway,  and  proceeding 
N.E.  about  100  yds.  you  come  to  the 
camping-ground  under  some  very  fine 
trees,  with  a  large  rectangular  dharm- 
84U  a    little   to   the   N..    The  tra- 
veller should  be  provided  with  a  tent, 
as   the  dharms^lA  is   the  reverse  of 
clean,  and  generally  filled  with  up- 
roarious natives.    The  first  day  will 
have  been  spent  in  the  journey,  on  the 
next  morning  the  traveller  may  go  to 
the  J4m'i  Masjid,  which  has  b^en  a 
Hindii  temple.     To  reach   this   one 
goes  N.W.  about  ^  m.     The  building 
is  of  white  stone,  which  has  probably 
been  brought  from  a  distance.    On  the 
right  as  you  enter  the  enclosure  is  a 
very   handsome    dharms^ld,  with   4 
small  cupolas   like  those   in   Upper 
India,  one  at  each  comer.    The  dharm- 
sdl4    is   18    ft    high    to   the    base 
whence  the  dome  springs,  which  is 
supported  by  a  jutting  cornice.    The 
baise  is  6  ft.  high,  and  the  dome  and 
cupolas  about  15  ft  more.  Total,  38  ft. 
The  outer  or  front  court  of  the  mosque 
is  separated  ^m  the  dharms^A  by  a 


Sect.  II. 


SotUe  25. — Pawangadh, 


825 


wall  which  has  8  arches,  a  large  one 
8  ft.  broad,  and  a  small  one  5  ft.  5  in. 
alternately.  The  outer  court  is  187  ft. 
from  N.  to  S.,  and  122  ft.  from  E.  to  W. 
The  principal  entrance  to  the  mosque 
is  in  the  E.  face,  and  has  2  stone  mina- 
rets, one  on  either  side  of  the  door. 
Each  minaret  has  7  stories,  the  highest 
being  the  conical  top,  which  is  orna- 
mented with  a  series  of  bands.  The 
lowest  story  is  handsomely  carved 
with  patterns  of  flowers.  The  2nd, 
3rd,  and  4th  stories  have  projecting 
rims  at  top,  that  in  the  4th  story 
being  much  the  widest.  The  5th  and 
6th  have  their  rims  supported  by  a 
bracket  resembling  that  so  common  at 
Bij&nagar,  but  here  it  has  a  double 
curve.  To  the  top  of  the  5th  story  is 
76 J  ft.  The  6th  story  is  12  ft.,  and 
the  7th,  7  ft,,  making  in  all  964  ft-  The 
base  of  the  minarets  swells  out  from 
the  wall  in  an  arc  of  21  ft.  The  en- 
trance arch  is  14  ft.  10  in.  wide.  The 
hall  of  the  mosque  has  88  pillars  of 
Hindii  architecture  on  either  side,  and 
7  large  cupolas,  besides  several  smaller 
ones.  It  IS,  without  doubt,  the  hall  of 
1000  pillars  so  common  in  Hindd 
temples.  In  the  W.  face  of  the  mosque 
are  7  alcoves  handsomely  carved.  The 
centre  one  is  of  white  marble,  the 
others  of  masonry.  There  is  no  pulpit, 
and  the  lotiis  ornament  is  carved  in 
the  alcoves.  This  hall  measures  169  ft. 
from  N.  to  S.,  and  79  ft.  10  in.  from  B. 
to  W.  Innumerable  bats  roost  in  the 
cupolas.  The  hall  very  much  re- 
sembles that  of  the  Temple  of  Edl 
Chand  at  Kalbargah,  but  is  smaller. 
There  is  no  inscription.  In  the  en- 
closure outside  is  the  tomb  of  a  Pir. 
The  central  cupola  has  3  stories,  which 
lead  to  terraces  on  the  roof.  The 
ascent  of  the  mountain  of  Pawangadh 
may  next  be  made.*    Ascend  by  the 

*  For  a  sketch  of  the  hill  of  Pawangadh,  see 
the  "Gazetteer  of  Kaira  and  Pdnch  Ma^&ls ;" 
and  also  for  the  history  of  the  sieges,  see 
Major  J.'  W.  Watson's  Historical  Sketch  in  the 
"  Indian  Antiquary,"  vol.  vi.  p.  1.  The  first 
mention  of  Pawangadh  is  by  Ch&nd,  who 
refers  to  it  in  his  account  of  fihim  Dev  I.  of 
Anhalwi(^,  1022-1072.  It  then  belonged  to  a 
Tnar  chief,  it  was  then  taken  by  the  Oboh&ns 
who  fled  from  Banthdmbor  in  1209,  and  fh>m 
them  by  Ha^tid  Bega^  in  1484.  It  then 
fell,  it  is  said,  owing  to  a  curse  of  the  goddess 


E.  side  and  pass  first  through  a  dense 
jungle,  over  a  path  like  the  bed  ol  a 
mountain  torrent,  consisting  entirely 
of  jagged  rocks.  A  succession  of 
ridges  is  first  crossed,  and  after  about 
J  m.  gateway  No,  1,  called  the  Atak 
&ate,  is  reached.  Inside  this  gate  are 
the  ruins  of  the  Medi  or  Hinna  Palace 
and  lank  of  the  same  name,  deep  and 
square,  and  still  holding  water  even 
in  the  dry  seasons.  Here,  in  1803, 
the  English  battery  was  placed.  In 
half  an  hour  more  a  natural  scarp 
20  ft.  high  is  come  to,  with  a  wall 
12  ft.  high  on  the  top,  and  crene- 
lated battlements.  The  trees  and 
long  grass  grow  on  this  wall  in  the 
most  picturesque  manner.  In  one 
place  a  broad  cluster  of  silvery  grass 
hangs  down  8  ft.,  in  shape  like  the 
tuft  on  a  man's  chin.  Here  is  gate  No. 
2,  called  the  Moti  or  Great  Gate,  the 
first  part  being  called  the  Burhiya,*  a 
quadruple  one,  crossing  and  ascending 
the  scarp.  There  is  a  small  pool  of  good 
water  on  the  left,  formed  by  drop- 
pings from  the  rock.  Above  on  the  left 
are  2  semi-circular  bastions  of  about  70 
ft.  diameter  and  12  ft.  high,  not  covered 
in,  but  simply  ramps.  55  steps  cut  in 
the  rock,  and  gtill  in  good  order,  lead 
to  this  gate,  and  above  it  44  more  lead 
to  gate  No.  3,  above  which  a  rocky 
curve  of  80  yds.  more  leads  up  to  gate 
No.  4,t  and  here  the  jungle  ends  for  a 
short  space,  but  begins  again  some* 
what  higher  up.  Pass  then  between 
2  walls,  that  on  the  left  being  quite 
30  ft.  high.  After  100  yds  come  to 
gate  No.  5,  %  and  about  the  same  dis- 
tance beyond  it,  to  gate  No.  6.  Then , 
after  \  of  m.,  come  to  gate  No.  7,  be- 
yond which,  on  the  left,  is  a  ruined 

K&li.  Ma^mM  added  to  the  fortification.  It 
was  then  taken  by  Hdmdyun  in  August,  1535. 
It  was  held  by  the  Mugbuls  till  surprised  by 
Kri^hnaji,  the  foster  son  of  Kiint^i  Kadani 
Bande.  It  was  taken  by  Sindhia  between  1761 
and  1770,  and  held  by  him  till  it  was  taken 
by  the  English  under  Col.  Waddington,  on 
August  17tn,  1808;  restored  to  Sindhia  in 
1804,  and  made  over  by  him  to  the  British  on 
August  1st,  1858. 

*  The  Gazetteer  translates  this  *'  spear-butt 
gate." 

t  This  must  be  the  Bhdldpul  gate  of  the 
Gazetteer. 

X    The  Sadan  Sh4h  gate  of  the  GajxUur, 


326 


Rovie  25, — Baroda  to  Pawaiigadh, 


Sect.  II. 


house   of  Sindbia's   time,  called   the 
Mdchi  ^avell,  in  which  3  policemen 
and  their  families  reside.    They  say 
they  never  see  or  hear  wild  beasts, 
though  it  has  been  stated  by  English 
officers  that  they  have  seen  enormoas 
tigers  here.    Beyond  this  a  pdlki  can 
haidly  ascend,  and  the  traveller  who 
cannot  walk  must  take  a  mAchi,  which 
is  simply  a  cushion    supported  by  2 
bambds,  with  a  bit  of  cloth  suspended 
from  it,  on  which  to  rest  one's  feet. 
There  is  no  support  for  the  back,  and 
consequently  one   must  cling  to  the 
bambiis,  or  risk  falling  out  backward. 
The  path  now  becomes  more  difficult, 
and  it  is   almost  incredible  how  the 
monkey-like  Bhlls,  who  carry  you,  step 
from  rock  to  rock  without  stumbling. 
In  some  places  the  side  of  the  moun- 
tain is  very  precipitous,  and  a  slip  of 
the  Bhils  might  send  you  down  a  long 
way ;  but  there  arc  trees  and  jungle 
to  break  a  fall,  and  at  all  events  it 
does  not  look  so  dangerous  as  where 
the  ascent  is  bare.    Above  No.  7  gate- 
way are   3   granaries,  called   M^ai 
Eothdr,  built,  it  is  said,  by  a  former 
Rajd  of  Champanir.    They  are  domed, 
and  measure  30  ft.  6  in.  sq.    The  walls 
are  5  ft.  thick  ;  they  are  used  as  offices 
by  the  English  employes.    On  the  top 
side  of  the  S.E.  spur,  with  a  scarp  of 
1000  ft.,  and  joined  to  the  hill  by  a 
narrow  neck,  are  the    ruins   of  Jai 
Sing's  palace,  the  last  of  the  PAvA- 
pati  Bdvals.     Much  above  them,  to 
the    right  of   the    road,  on   the  W. 
side    of  the    hill,   are    smaller   gra- 
^  naries,  called  Naulakkhas.     They  are 
*  the  same  as  the  lower  3,  except  in  size. 
Under  these  KothArs  are  reservoirs  of 
rain-water    covered  with    planks,  on 
which  you  step  as  you  enter.    Nearly 
at  this  point,  to  the  right,  is  the  Cham- 
p&vati  Palace,  which  consists  of  a  series 
of  apartments  on   different  terraces, 
descending   a   long    way,   and   com- 
manding fine  views.     Major  Watson 
thinks  this  wa«  built  for  the  ladies  of 
the  Zandnah  to  see  hunts  from.    Mr. 
Ackworth  adds,  "  It  is  said  to  have 
been  built  by  2  brothers  of  one  of  the 
P4t&i  RAvals,  'robbers,'  who  had  an 
underground  passage  from  the  Sadan 
Shih   Gate   to   the  Khund   river   at 


Mcrliipur,  in  Halol."    Of  its  7  stories 
4  were  above  ground  and  are  now  in 
ruins,  and  3,  one  below  the  other,  are 
cut  in  the  face  of  the  cliff.    Here  runs 
a  covered  stone  staircase,  and  inside 
it,  one  below  the  other,  are  3  cham- 
bers 20  ft.  sq.,  with  3  pillars  on  either 
side,  the  roof  domed,  and  the  cornice 
slightly    ornamented.      The     lowest 
hangs  over  the  cliff  where  2  scarps 
meet  at  right  angles.    Before  reaching 
the   palace  is  a  strong,  round  stone 
wall,  with  1  narrow  opening  enclosing 
a  small  cruciform  stone-cut  chamber, 
where  a  Rajput  princess  was  buried 
alive.     Gateway  No.  8  is  called  the 
MAkai     Koth4r,     from    the    giuna- 
ries.    A    short   way   beyond   this    a 
wooden  bridge  is    reached,  close    to 
gateway  No.  9,  which  is  called  the 
Pdti&pul,   "  plank-bridge "  gate,  and 
here  frds  of  the  ascent  end.    Two  m. 
remain.  In  about  25  minutes  gate  No. 
10.  called  the  Nakdr  Kh  &nah,  is  reached, 
beyond  it  in  J  an  hour  the  Dodhiya 
Taldo  is  reached.  It  is  in  a  plateau,  in 
the  centre  of  which  rises  the  topmost 
scarped  hill,  on  which  is  Edli's  temple. 
The  tank  is  100  x  80,  and  has  some 
temples  on  its  banks,  mostly  ruined. 
Only  one  is  roofed  over,  having  been 
lately  rebuilt  by  rich  merchants.  From 
this  the  ascent  of  the  scarp  is  made  by 
very  steep  stone  steps,  built  by  Ma- 
hdddji  Sindhia,  in  the  following  flights 
—113  +  8  +  6  +  12  +  10  +  19  +  3  +  14  +  3 
+  3  +  3  +  4  +  11  +  11  +  3+7  =  230.    The 
first  great  flight  has  a  stone  siding  2^ 
ft.  broad.   At  the  top  of  the  last  flight 
is  gateway  No.  11,  passing  through 
which  you  turn  left  to  the  temple  of 
KAll.    This  temple  is  644  ^t-  ^^^  E. 
to  W.,  18  ft.  4  from  N.  to  «.,  and  17  ft. 
2  high.    Over  the  sanctum  is  a  sort  of 
chamber  7  ft.   high,  said  to  be  the 
shrineof  aMu^ammadanPir.  This  Pir 
is  called  Sajjan, which  signifies  "good," 
or  "  well  born,"  and  he  is  also  named 
Maula  Saldm.     He  was  a  converted 
Rdjpiit.  There  is  one  female  attendant 
at  this  shrine,  a  Muslim  woman.    Ir. 
K&ll's  sanctum  2  Brdhmans  officiate, 
break  up  the  cocoa  nuts  offered,  and 
receive  the  pice.      These    Br&hmans 
have  some  small  huts  at  the  £.  of  the 
sanctum.    Tlie  sanctum  is  a  sort  of 


Sect.  II. 


£oute  26. — BharUch  to  DahhafL 


327 


sittiDg-room  with  8  pillars,  floored 
with  marble,  called  here  Aras  pihin, 
given  by  the  Diwto  of  Limdi.  To 
the  left  is  a  small  room,  but  no  image. 
To  the  W.  of  the  temple  is  a  Dip 
Jttambhj  or  "  pillar  for  lamps,*'  close  to 
a  precipice  of  1000  ft.  There  is  a  mag- 
nificent view  here  over  the  Jevel  coun- 
try. The  Brahman 8  say  that  tigers 
come  as  far  as  the  Dodhiya  Taldo,  but 
do  not  ascend  to  the  plateau  on  which 
M&h&  Kill's  temple  is.  Tliere  is  a  vil- 
lage at  Champanir  consisting  of  5 
houses  of  Brihmans  and  20  of  other 
castes.  The  fort  of  Pawangadh  may 
have  its  name  from  Paivati,  "  wind," 
as  in  the  hot  months  there  are  furious 
blasts  of  wind,  against  which  a  man 
can  hardly  stand.  Many  native  autho- 
rities, however,  are  in  favour  of  writing 
the  word  Pawagadh  without  the  n» 
The  point  can  1^  decided  only  by  a 
careful  reference  to  Qujardtl  and 
Hindii  MSS.  The  fort  must  have 
been  formidable  in  the  old  day,  but  it 
was  taken  by  Muhammad  Begada, 
King  of  Gnjardt,  and  in  the  present 
century  by  the  English. 


ROUTE  26. 

BHABdCH  TO  DABHOi. 

After  leaving  Surat  about  2  m.  the 
Taptl  river  is  crossed  by  the  B.  B.  and 
C.  T.  railway  bridge,  with  30  spans  of 
(iO  ft.  each.  The  water  way  covered 
by  the  bridge  is  1875  ft.  long.  The 
average  height  of  the  bridge  from  the 
foundation  to  the  roadway  is  68  ft. 
The  depth  of  the  river  in  the  dry 
season  is  13  ft.,  and  in  the  rains  39. 
At  Kim  station,  181f  m.  from  Bombay, 
the  Kim   river,  the  N.  boundary  of 


Surat  district,  is  crossed  by  a  bridge 
of  3  spans  of  60  ft.  each.  Again  at 
Ankleear,  198  m.  from  Bombay,  the 
Amra  river  is  crossed  by  a  bridge  with 
4  spans  of  60  ft.  each,  and  at  Bhari!ich 
the  Nirbadd  river  is  crossed  by  a 
bridge  of  67  spans  of  60  ft.  each.  The 
water  way  is  3912  ft.  The  average 
height  of  the  bridge  from  the  founda- 
tion to  the  roadway  is  78  ft.  The 
depth  of  the  river  in  the  dry  season  is 
33  ft.,  and  in  the  rains  66  ft.  There 
are  4  railway  bridges  between  Bhanich 
and  Baroda,  each  with  3  spans  of  60  ft. 
each,  over  the  Bangui  river,  the 
Dhadar,  the  Jambua,  and  the  Wish- 
wamitri  rivers. 

Bharuch  (Broach). — The  old  name 
of  this  place  in  theGirndr,  Ndshik,  and 
other  inscriptions,  and  as  used  by  Vard- 
hamihira,  in  tlie  6th  century  A.D.,  is 
Bharukachha,  a  corruption  of  Bhrigu- 
kachha,  "the  field  of  Bhyigu,"  a 
Ri^hi.  Shukaltlrth,  10  m.  N.E.  of 
Bhanich,  was  the  last  residence  of 
Chandragupta,  B.C.  316.  Bhariichwas 
under  the  Maurya  dynasty  till  B.C. 
178,  and  about  the  Christian  era 
passed  under  the  Parthian  princes,  as 
mentioned  in  the  Gimar  inscription, 
and  proved  by  the  occurrence  of  Par- 
thian coins  in  the  district.  The  author 
of  the  "  Periplus,"  A.D.  60—210,  men- 
tions Bhanich  under  the  name  of 
Barugaza.  It  was  then  ruled  by  an 
independent  Rdjput  chief,  a  Jain  by 
religion.  It  then  fell  under  the  rule 
of  the  ChAlukyas.  In  629  A.D.  it  was 
visited  by  the  Chinese  pilgrim  Hiueu 
Tsang.  The  Muslims  began  to  ap- 
pear in  the  8th  century,  and  Bhanich 
was  niled  by  them  from  1297  to  1772. 
In  1613  A.D.  it  was  first  visited  by 
Aldworth  and  Withington,  English 
merchants,  and  in  1614,  a  house  was 
hired  for  a  factory,  permission  to  es- 
tablish which  was  granted  to  Sir 
Thomas  Roe,  by  Jahdnglr  in  1616. 
The  Dutch  set  up  a  factory  in  1617. 
In  1686  Shambujl,  son  of  Shivaji, 
plundered  Bhanich.  On  the  18th  of 
November,  1772,  the  British  troops 
stormed  Bhanich  with  the  loss  of  their 
commander,  General  Wedderbum,  5 
officers,  16  Sipdhls  and  30  Europeans 
killed,  and  91  wounded  and  missing. 


328 


Route  26. — Wiardch  to  Dabhoi, 


Sect.  II. 


For  some  time  tribute  was  exacted  by 
the  Mardthas.  On  the  29th  of  August, 
1803,  Bhariich  was  again  taken  by- 
storm  by  the  British.  Since  then 
there  have  only  been  2  disturbances, 
one  in  1823  by  a  rising  of  the  Kolls, 
and  in  1857,  by  a  struggle  between 
the  Bohords  and  the  Pdrsls.  Bhariich 
is  situated  on  the  N.  or  right  bank  of 
the  Nirbadd  river.  It  is  the  capital 
of  a  collectorate,  with  an  area  of  1458 
sq.  m. ,  and  a  pop.  of  350,322  souls,  or 
240  to  the  sq.  m.  The  town  itself  has 
36,932  inhabitants.  The  Nirbadd  here 
is  a  noble  river,  1  m.  in  breadth,  and 
discharging  in  times  of  maximum 
flood  two  and  a  half  million  ft.  of 
water  per  second.  The  river  is  also 
called  the  RewA,  and  hence  the  country 
between  the  Sahyadri  Hills,  and  the 
E.  boundary  of  the  Baroda  territory  is 


suburb  covers  a  strip  of  land  2^  m. 
long    and  three-quarters    of    a  mile 
broad,  hence  by  its  inhabitants  it  is 
called  Jibh,  or  "  the  tongue."    The  fort 
stands  on  a  hill  more  than  100  ft. 
above  the  river,  and  a  massive  stone 
wall  lines  the  river  bank  for  about  1 
m.   To  the  N.E.  rows  of  tamarind  trees 
show  where,  one  hundred  years  ago, 
was  the  NdwAb's  garden,  "with  sum- 
mer pavilions,  fountains,  and  canals, 
and  abundance  of  Oriental  fruits  and 
flowers."    To  the  E.  are  the  places  of 
Hindii  pilgrimage,  the  temple  of  the 
Ri§hi  Bhrigu,   and   the    place  where 
King  Bali  sacrificed.    The  streets  are 
narrow,  and  some  of  them  steep.    The 
houses  are  of  plain  brick,   2  stories 
high,  with  tiled  roofs.    The  house  of 
Lallu  Bhdi,  who  farmed  the  revenue, 
is  the  finest,  with  a  facade  of  richly- 
carved  wood.     The  suburbs  cover  an 
area  of  2 J  sq.  m.,   and  consist  of  6 
villages — Vejalpiir  to  the  W.,  Dungrl  to 
the  N.W.,  'AH  to  the  N.,  Kambiwaga 
and  Kasak  to  the  N.E.,  and  Mojanp^r 
to  the  E.    In  Vejalpiir  is  the  'Idgah. 
In  the  fort  are  the  collector's  office, 
the  Civil  Courts,  the  Dutch  Factory, 
the  Jail,  the  Civil  Hospital,  the  Eng- 
lish Church  and  School,  the  Municipal 
Office,  and  the  Library.    The  Railway 
Station  and  T,  B.  are  to  the  N.E.  of 
the  town.  Having  located  himself,  the 


traveller  may  spend  his  first  day  in 
driving  10  m.  to  the  E.  of  Bhanich,  to 
the  celebrated  place  of  Hindii  pilgrim- 
age, Shukltirth,  from  Shukl,  "  white," 
and  Tlrth, "  place  of  pilgrimage."  It  is 
on  the  N.  or  right  bank  of  the  Nirbada, 
and  here  Chdnakya,  King  of  Ujjain,  was 
purified  of  his  sins,  having  arrived  at 
this  holy  spot  by  sailing  down  the  Nir- 
badd  in  a  boat  with  black  8ails,which. 
turned  white  on  his  reaching  Shukltirth. 
Here,  too,  Chandragupta  and  his 
minister,  Chdnakya,  were  cleansed 
from  the  guilt  of  murdering  Chan- 
dragupta's  8  brothers,  and  here  Cha- 
mund.  King  of  Anhalwddd,  in  the 
11th  century,  ended  his  life  as  a  peni- 
tent. There  are  3  sacred  waters — ^the 
K4vi,  the  Hunkdreshwar,  and  the 
Shukl.  At  the  2nd  of  these  is  a 
temple  with  an  image  of  Vishnu,  of 


called  RewdkdnthA.    The  city  with  its   white  stone,  5  ft.  high.     The  temple 


IS  not  remarkable.     It  has  an  outer 
room  23  f.  by  7,  an  inner  room  11^  ft. 
sq.,  and  a  sanctum  10  ft.  6  in.  long 
and  7  ft.  wide.     There  is  a  fair  here 
in  November,  at  which  25,000  people 
assemble.    Opposite  Shukltirth,  in  the 
Nirbadd,  is  a  small  island  in  which  is 
the  famous  tree  called  the  ^bir  vat, 
or  '*the  fig-tree  of  Kabir."      It  has 
suffered  much  from  floods.     Forbes, 
who  visited  Bhariich  1776—1783,  says 
in  his  "  Oriental  Memoirs,"  i.,  p.  26, 
it  enclosed  a  space  within  its  principal 
stems  2000  ft.  in  circumference.     It 
had  350  large  and  3000  small  trunks, 
and  had  been   known  to  shelter  7000 
men.     Bishop  Heber,  in  April,  1826, 
says  though  much  had  been  washed 
away,  enough  remained   to  make  it 
one  of  the  most  noble  groves  in  the 
world.    A  writer  in  the  Trans.  Bomb. 
Lit.  Soc.  says  that  in  1819  "  its  lofty 
ai'ches  and   colonnades,   its  immense 
festoons  of  roots,  and  the  extent  of 
ground  it  covered,  and  its  enormous 
trunks,  proclaimed  its  great  antiquity, 
and  struck  me  with  an  awe  similar  to 
what  is    inspired  by  a   fine  Gothic 
cathedral.     I  should  guess  it  to  cover 
from  three  to  four  acres,  and  the  fresh 
green  of  its  thick  foliage  shows  that  it  is 
still  in  the  vigour  of  lijfe.    Its  branches 
rise  so  high  that  many  miles  off  it  is  a 
conspicuous  object,  standing  out  Uke 


Sect.  II. 


B&itte  26. — BharHch. 


329 


a  hill  on  the  end  of  the  island.*'  Of 
the  central  trunk  scarcely  a  trace  re- 
mains. A  small  temple,  the  shrine  of 
the  saint  Kablr,  marks  the  spot  where 
it  once  stood.  The  appearance  of  this 
tree  will  remind  the  visitor  of  those 
lines  of  Milton — 

So  counselled  he,  aiid  both  together  went 
Into  the  thickest  wood ;  there  soon  they  chose 
The  fig-tree,  not  that  kind  for  food  renowned, 
But  such  as  at  this  day,  to  Indians  known 
In  Malabar  or  Deccan,  spreads  her  arms 
Branching  so  broad  and  long,  that  in  the 
•    ground 
The  tender  twigs  take  root,  and  daughters 

grow 
About  the  mother  tree,  a  pillai'd  shade, 
High  overarched,  and  echoing  walks  between ; 
There  oft  the  Indian  herdsman  shunning  heat. 
Shelters  in  cool,  and  tends  his  pasturing  herds. 
At  loop-holes  cut  through  thickest  shade,  those 

leaves 
They  gathered,  broad  as  Amazonian  targe. 
And  witii  what  skill  they  had,  together  sew'd 
To  gird  their  waist;  vain  covering,  if  to  hide 
Their  guilt  and  dreaded  shame. 

•    Paradite  Lo$t,  book  ix.  p.  195. 

The  next  day  a  visit  may  be  paid  to 
the  Dntch  tombs,  which  are  2  m.  to 
the  W.  of  the  fort,  and  some  liundred 
yds.  off  the  road  to  the  left.  There 
are  2  large  tombs  from  16  to  20  ft. 
high  ;  the  one  to  the  N.  has  2  square 
bases,  with  a  small  dome  and  a  fluted 
cone  at  top,  the  other  has  only  1  square 
base,  with  a  dome  and  cone.  To  the 
E.  of  them  is  the  finest  tomb.  It  has 
a  circular  base  and  dome,  surmounted 
by  a  fluted  cone.  It  is  the  tomb  of 
Jan  Groenvelt,  who  died  January  9th, 
1704.  Another  tomb  has  the  date 
1666.  N.  of  the  road  are  5  Towers  of 
Silence,  1  of  them  about  15  ft.  high, 
just  opposite  the  Dutch  tombs.  The 
2nd  Tower  is  stall  in  use.  They  are 
all  in  a  straight  line,  and  the  5th  is 
6  m.  from  the  1st.  On  returning  to 
the  fort,  observe  on  the  right  a  large 
'fdg&h,  tawdrily  ornamented.  To  the 
£.  of  it  is  a  tomb  with  a  dmall  marble 
slab,  and  a  Portuguese  inscription, 
which  may  be  translated — 

MB.  FRANCIS  MONTREAUX, 

Captain  and  Commander  of  the  battalion  of 

the  Peshw^,  in  Fund, 

Son  of  Agostino  Bossin  Montreaux,  Major, 

Was  buried  here  14th  October,  1808. 

Pass  next  the  collector's  house,  and 


beyond  it  is  a  tomb  freshly  repaired. 
The  epitaph  is— 

Beneath  this  stone 
Are  deposited  the  renudns  of 

CAPTAIN  WILLIAM  SEMPIE, 

Of  His  Majesty's  86th  Regiment,      . 

Who  was  killed  by  a 

Cannon  shot 

At  the  Siege  of  Bhan^ch, 

On  the  26th  of  August,  1803. 

At  the  N.W.  comer  of  the  fort  is  the 
tomb  of  Brigadier  David  Wedderbum, 
who  was  killed  at  the  siege  of  Bhardch 
on  Nov.  14th,  1772.  At  p.  657  of  the 
Surat  and  Bhair&ch  Gazetteer,  the 
inscription  on  the  tomb  is  given  with 
some  serious  mistakes,  such  as  the 
date  1861  for  1761,  Supreme  Highness 
for  Serene  Highness,  and  iMxemhourg 
for  LuTieriburg,  The  English  cemetery 
is  in  the  suburb  'All,  on  an  eminence. 
The  oldest  tomb  is  to  Charles  Reily, 
surgeon,  deceased  10th  of  January, 
1776.  IJ  m.  N.  of  the  city  is  the 
mausoleum  of  B4w^  Eay^dn,  built 
about  the  end  of  the  11th  century. 
This  saint  came  from  Baghdad,  and  is 
said  to  have  converted  KAl  Earan,  the 
son  of  the  Hindi!  R4j4,  who  took  up 
arms  against  his  father,  and  was  killed 
with  a  number  of  other  converts,  at 
the  spot  where  the  mausoleum  is.  The 
road  to  the  building  is  a  very  bad  one. 
According  to  the  local  guides,  there 
were  2  holy  men,  B4bd  Bay]|^4n  and 
B4bA  Ganj  Baylij^^n,  who  were  buried 
here.  The  mausoleum  consists  of  2 
buildings  joined  together ;  that  to  the 
W.  and  S.  W.  has  a  flat  roof,  on  the 
W.  side  of  which  are  the  tombs  of  the 
2  brothers,  plain  white  sarcophagi,  2 
ft.  high,  with  pillars  at  their  headfl. 
This  building  is  73  ft.  from  N.  to  S. 
and  71  from  E.  to  W.  There  are  3 
staircases  to  ascend  to  the  roof ;  one 
comes  almost  from  the  road  to  the  S. 
side  of  the  roof,  and  is  109  ft.  long. 
Facing  this  staircase,  on  the  N.  side  of 
the  roof,  is  a  ruined  brick  mosque. 
The  other  two  staircases  are,  1  on 
either  side  of  the  E.  face,  which  was 
the  front  of  the  mausoleum.  The 
other  building  is  said  by  the  descend- 
ants of  the  saints  8aiyid  GhuUm  A^- 
mad  and  Saiyid  GhuUm  Qusain  to 
be  the  tomb  of  a  niiwdb  of  Changiss 


330 


HotUe  26. — Bhardch  to  Dahhoi. 


•Sect.  It. 


.Khdn*8  army.  It  is  58  ft.  6  in.  from 
K.  to  W.  and  66  ft.  from  N.  to  S.  On 
the  N.W.  side  is  a  tank,  which  might 
be  made  very  ornamental.  The  dome 
is  20  ft.  high  and  18  in  diameter.  It 
has  a  Kala^  or  ornament  at  the  top 
4  ft.  high.  On  the  E.  side  is  a  lofty 
colonnade,  67  ft.  long  from  N.  to  S. 
and  9  ft.  6  in.  broad,  inside  measure- 
ment, with  6  pillars  in  front,  and  the 
same  number  of  arches  of  11  ft.  3  in. 
span.  The  building  and  its  grounds 
might  be  made  a  b^utiful  promenade 
for  the  citizens  of  Bhanich.  About 
three-quarters  of  a  mile  to  the  B.  of 
this  is  another  shrine,  sacred  to  Plr 
Chatar.  It  is  a  simple  enclosure,  46 
ft.  from  B.  to  W.  and  35  from  N.  to  S. 
The  wall  is  4  ft.  high,  and  full  of 
small  niches.  The  tomb  of  the  Plr  is 
in  the  centre,  in  a  low  platform.  It 
is  only  3  ft.  long  and  1  ft.  broad,  and  is 
surrounded  by  a  fosse  in  the  masonry, 
4  ft.  long  by  IJ  broad  and  IJ  deep. 
Plr  Chatar  is  said  to  have  been  mar- 
tyred here,  and  this  fosse  was  miracu- 
lously supplied  with  water,  which 
nothing  could  exhaust.  The  army  of 
the  lUjd  of  Bhardch  and  all  his  ele- 
phants drank  of  it,  and  nothing  could 
exhaust  it.  B&bd  Bayl^dn  was  sister's 
son  to  Plr  Chatar.  His  descendants 
have  a  Sanad  from  Aurangzlb  dated 
the  11th  of  Jumada's  sAnl,  in  the  Uth 
year  of  his  reign.  It  is  attested  as 
fiuthentic  by  Monier  Williams,  April 
13th,  1812.  In  this  deed  the  name  of 
the  city  is  written  Bharuch,  Outside 
the  E.  gate,  on  the  river's  bank,  is  the 
temple  of  Bhrigu  Ri§hi,  said.to  be  older 
than  the  foundation  of  the  town.  Near 
the  Jdh^deshwar  gate  is  the  temple 
of  SomnAth,  where  King  Bali  is  said 
to  have  performed  the  10-horse  sacri- 
fice. His  success  alarmed  the  gods  so 
much  that  Vishnu  became  incarnate 
as  Y4man  the  dwarf,  and  forced  Bali 
underground.  This  is  the  Hindiis' 
most  sacred  burning  ground.  The 
Jdm'i  Masjid  is  about  250  yds.  from 
the  Blgam  Bdori,  to  the  B.  The  road 
to  it  is  through  filthy  streets.  When 
close  to  it  you  turn  up  a  very  narrow 
dii-ty  lane  and  enter  an  enclosure. 
The  mosque  is  127  ft  long  from  N.  to 
S.,  and  64  ft.   6  in.  from  E.  to  W. 


From  the  floor  to  the  roof  inside  is  18 
ft.  The  roof  is  supported  by  Jain 
pillars,  all  differing  in  style,  and  14  ft  4 
high.  There  are  2  front  rows  of  12 
pillars  each,  with  pilasters  at  either 
end.  The  3rd  and  4th  rows  have  6 
pillars  each,  and  the  6th  row  11, 
making  in  all  47.  There  is  a  large 
central  dome,  and  6  on  either  side.  It 
is  clearly  an  old  Hindii  temple,  like 
that  of  K41  Chand  at  Kalbaigah,  but 
very  inferior ;  and  although  it  is  styled 
in  the  Gazetteer  "  a  magnificent  speci- 
men of  an  early  mosque,"  it  is  really, 
except  for  its  age,  hardly  worth  a 
visit.  After  the  capture  of  Bhariich  in 
1803,  English  soldiers  were  quartered 
here.  Chie  or  two  of  their  names, 
scratched  in  the  marble  doorway,  are 
still  legible.  About  300  yds.  E.  of  this 
mosque  is  that  of  Saiyid  A|^mad  Idnis, 
an  ancestor  of  Saiyid  Qusain  Idrds 
of  Surat.  It  is  a  plain,  apparently 
modem  building,  and  has  inscribed  in 
Persian  over  the  door — 

Whoever  comes  to  this  tomb  with  a  sincere 
heart  shall  have  all  his  wishes  granted  him. 

JDablwi, — This  place  will  be  reached 
by  the  Gdekw4d's  State  Bailway  from 
Miyag&oii.  Thie  stages  to  Miyagdon 
are  those  already  mentioned  in  the 
Time  Table  from  Surat  to  Baroda. 
They  are  Chamdrgioii,  7^  m.  from  Bha- 
in!ich ;  Palej,  8^  from  Chamdrgdon,  and 
Miyagdoii,  9}  m.  fi'om  Palej.  From 
Mij^agdou  to  Earwdn  is  8}  m.,  and  by 
the  train  which  leaves  Miyagdoii  at 
1.46  P.M.,  Karwdn  is  reached  at  2.65, 
Mandald,  4}  m.,  is  reached  at  3.25 ;  and 
Dabhoi,  6  j  m.,  is  reached  at  4.45.  P.M. 
The  railway  is  of  only  2  ft.  6  gauge, 
and  the  speed  seldom  exceeds  10  m.  an 
hour,  but  the  line  is  nevertheless  a 
great  convenience.  As  the  train  starts 
in  the  middle  of  the  intense  heat,  and 
as  the  terminus  is  at  a  little  distance 
from  the  Miyagdon  station,  there  ought 
to  be  there,  but  is  not,  a  covered  place 
for  passengers  to  wait.  The  T.B.  at 
Dabhoi  is  close  to  a  beautiful  clump  of 
trees  about  300  yds.  from  the  fort.  The 
fort  is  said  to  have  been  built  by  the 
Bdjd  of  Patan,  for  his  son  Visal  Dev, 
who  was  born  here  in  1261  A.D.  He  ruled 
till  1321  A.D.,  and  then  Bahddur  Shah 


Sect.  II. 


Houte  26. —  Dahhoi, 


331 


took  the  fort,  and  it  was  desolate  for 
100  years.    In  1 435  it  was  re-colonized 
by  T4tar  Khdn,  but  in  .365  years  more 
his  family  became  extinct.     In  that 
year  the  Peshwd  took  it,  and  then  the 
English,  who  gave  it  to  the  G&ekwdd, 
instead  of  A^maddbiid.     This  is  the 
account  given  by  the  local    people. 
The  trayeller  will  enter  the  fort  by  the 
Baroda  Gate,  which  is  31  ft.  I  high, 
with  2  elaborately  carved  pilasters  on 
either  side,  both  at  the  entrance  and 
egress,  making    8    altogether.      The 
width  of  the  gateway  is  16  ft.  9,  but 
the  pilasters  project  so  much  at  the 
top  that  there  they  leave  only  about 
8  ft.    The  carvings  represent  the  in- 
carnations of  Vishnu,    and    nymphs 
sporting  with  heavenly  alligators.  Pass 
then  through  dusty  streets,  in  which 
the  houses  are  of  immense  solidity,, 
and  built  of  burnt  brick  much  worn  by 
the  weather,  to  the  S.  or  Nandod  gate, 
which  is  29  ft.  2  high  and  16  ft.  4 
wide.    Trees  have  grown  in  the  walls 
and  fractured  them  with  their  thick 
roots.    A  look  may  then  be  taken  at 
the  district  jail,  which  has  recently 
been  built  at  a  cost  of  Bs.  64,000.  and 
opened  in  August  1879.    It  is  of  burnt 
brick  with  a  tower  at  each  of  the  4 
comers,  whence  a  policeman  overlooks 
the  prisoners,  of  whom  there  are  only 
about  50.    The  building  is  a  square  of 
270  ft.     The  traveller  may  now  pro- 
ceed to  the  Hiri  Gate  in  the  E.  face 
of  the  town.    It  is  37  ft.  high,  and  is  a 
marvel  of  minute  carving.    This  gate 
has  only  1  pilaster  on  either  side,  and 
where  thickest,  its  swell  from  the  wall 
is  only  3  ft.  7.      On  the  spectator's 
left  as  he  looks  out  from  inside  the 
tower,  is  the  temple  of  M&hd  KAli, 
and  on  his  right,  beyond  the  gate  and 
inside  it,  is  a  smaller  temple,  now 
quite  ruined.     The  2  sides  of  the  gate 
are  wholly  different.     That  inside  the 
town  on  the  spectator's  right  as  he 
looks  outward,  has  a  plain  jharoltA  or 
"window  with  a  balcony"  at  the  top 
of  the  gate.    Below  is  a  richly  carved 
cornice  of  lions  and  elephants,  sur- 
mounting   a   border  of   birds.     The 
buttress  on  the  spectator's  left  is  carved 
with  infinite  ricnness.     At  its  top  is  a 
balcony  window  supported  by  2  small 


Pinal's.    Below  is  a  picture  of  a  battle, 
in  which  an  elephant  is   trampling 
down  armed  warriors,  while  horsemen 
advance  behind  and  with  it.    This  is 
set  in  a  sort  of  framework  of  carved 
balusters  which  project  3  ft.  from  the 
wall.    Below  is  a  larger  window  than 
on  the  right  side.    A  pretty  ornament 
is  used  of  2  birds  with  the  twined 
stem  of  a  lotus  between  them.     The 
temple  of  M4hd  Edli  is  a  wondrous 
example  of  carving,  which  when  new 
must  have  been  very  beautiful,  but  is 
now  much  worn  by  the  weather.    Its 
inner   facade,    looking    towards    the 
town,  has  2  buttresses  and  a  centre. 
The  right  buttress  is  14  ft.  10  long 
and  the  left  15  ft.  4.    The  centre  with 
its  projection  measures  23  ft.  10  in 
length.    The  temple,  or  rather  the  old 
part,  extends  from  the  left  buttress, 
without  counting  the  projection  32  ft.  4, 
and  then  there   is   a  plain  modern 
addition.    The  carving  of  the  wall  is 
in  10  rows  or  scrolls.    Lowest  of  all  is 
a  scroll  of  birds,  above  it  lions  and 
human  figures,  above  these  elephants, 
then    dancing-girls,    then   girls    and 
deities,  then  2  plain  bands,  then  figures 
of  deities  3  ft.  high,  then  an  orna- 
ment of  straight  lines,  then  lozenges, 
and   then    a    plain   band.      Outside 
the  town,  the  carving  of  the  gate  is 
equally  elaborate.     About  10  ft.  up  in 
the  N.  face  of  the  centre,  a  man  and 
woman  are  carved  4  ft.  high,  standing 
with  a  tree  between  them,   like  the 
old  representations  of  Adam  and  Eve. 
To  the  left  is  the  tall  figure  of  a  devil, 
with  a  ghastly  leer.      High  in  the 
centre    face   is   an    elephant,    under 
which  the  builder  of  the  gate  is  said 
to  have  been  interred.     Altogether, 
this  gate  is  one  of  the  finest  pieces 
of  carving  in  India.    On  the  N.  side 
of  the  town  is  what  was  the  palace,  in 
which  the  law  courts  now  sit.    There 
is  a  fine  tank  on  this  side  and  the 
Mori  gate.  The  fort  is  about  1000  yds. 
in  length,  and  800  in  breadth.     At 
each  comer  (see  Bds  Mdld,  vol.  i.  p. 
251)  is  a  tower,   square,  but  broken 
into  the  peculiar  form  in  which  the 
Hindii  architect  delights.    Four  rect- 
angular bastions   intervene   between 
each  tower  and  the  gateway  in  the 


332 


BotUe  27. — Baroda  to  Ahmaddbdd. 


Sect.  II. 


'Centre.  According  to  native  tradition, 
the  fort  witii  its  carvings  cost  10  mil- 
lions sterling.  Forbes,  in  his  "  Oriental 
Memoirs,"  extols  this  place,  and  speaks 
of  its  interior  colonnade  (it  is  donbtful 
to  what  he  refers,)  as  like  the  porti- 
coes in  Pompeii.  The  crocodile  is 
found  in  this  spot.  The  body  of  one 
12  ft  long,  with  most  formidable 
teeth,  was  lying  at  the  station  in  Jan- 
naary  1880,  having  just  been  shot.  It 
had  a  round  snout,  quite  different 
from  that  of  the  alligator. 


ROUTE  27. 

BABODA  TO  AHMADAbAD. 

The  stages  are  as  follows  by  the  B. 
B.  and  C.  I.  Bailway. 


Distance 

Time. 

from 

Stations. 

KoUiba. 

H.       M. 

HUes. 

p.    M. 

247i 

Baroda  . 

3      0 

262 
259f 

B&iwA              .    . 
W&ad   .       .       . 

3    22 
8    68 

966 

Nanli                .    . 

4    20 

mi 

A'nand  .          arr. 

4    36 

A'nand      .      dep. 

4    46 

274 

Boriivl          .       . 

6      6 

280} 

Xa4iiid     .       .    . 

6    86 

291} 

Ma^miid4b4d 

0    28 

298} 

Bdr^^Jari    .       .    . 

0    62 

809^ 

A1]imadib6d  . 

7    36 

The  bridges  on  this  part  of  the  line 
are  as  follows,  over  the  Mani  river  and 
the  Mahl,  between  Bdjw4  and  W^sad 
stations  : — ^The  first  of  3  spans  of  60  ft. 
and  the  second  of  27  spans  of  60  ft. 
The  width  of  the  channel  of  the 
Mahl  is  1687  ft.,  height  from  founda- 
tion to  roadway  96  ft.,  depth  in  dry 


8cn8on  3  ft.,  in  rains,  55.  Between 
the  Nadi^d  and  Ma^miidabdd  station 
the  Sri  is  crossed  by  a  bridge  of  6 
spans  of  60  ft.  each,  and  between  Ma^- 
miid4b4d  and  BAi^jari  stations  are  2 
bridges,  one  over  the  W&trak  river, 
with  12  spans  of  60  ft.  each,  and  1  of 
10  ft.,  and  the  Meshwa  river  is  crossed 
by  one  of  .11  spans  of  60  ft.  eadti. 
Before  reaching  A^mad4b4d,  the 
Kauri  river  is  crossed  by  a  bridge  of  3 
spans  of  60  ft.,  1  of  10  ft.,  and  1  of 
45  ft.  At  Mall^miiddbid  the  traveller 
must  alight  if  he  wishes  to  see  Kaira, 
which  is  6  m.  to  the  S.W.,  and  near 
which  there  is  excellent  shooting. 
The  pop.  of  Kaira  is  12,681.  The 
town  consists  of  2  parts,  the  town 
proper  and  the  suburbs.  Outside  the 
town  are  7  suburbs,  3  to  the  S.,  2  to 
the  E.,  1  to  the  N.,  and  1  to  the  W. 
It  is  the  capital  of  a  coUectorate  which 
has  an  area  of  1600  sq.  m.,  with  a  pop. 
of  782,733,  or  489  to  the  sq.  m.  It  is 
one  of  the  best  wooded  parts  in  the 
Bombay  Presidency  ;  the  trees  stand- 
ing singly  or  in  small  groves.  Wild 
hog  are  very  common,  and  the  Kilg^, 
Pwrtax  pictus,  are  met  with  in  the 
Kapadwanj,  A'nand  and  Ma^mMdb^ 
sub-divisions  in  herds  of  8  or  10.  The 
antelope,  "  Antilope  bezoartica"  and 
the  Indian  gazelle,  *'  Qnzella  Ben- 
nettii,"  are  very  common.  Wild  fowl, 
bustard,  JEv-podotis  EdfvardHi^  and 
florican,  SypheotidesaurituSy  partridges 
and  quails,  sand-grouse,  plovers  and 
bitterns,  pearfowl  and  green  pigeon 
are  found  everywhere.  The  Mdlisir 
Barbu*  Matal,  little  inferior  to  the 
salmon,  are  found  in  the  Mahl,  Vdtrak, 
Meshwa  and  SAbarmati,  and  afford  ex- 
cellent sport  with  the  rod  and  fly. 
Kaira  is  said  to  be  as  old  as  1400  B.c. 
Copper-plate  grants  show  that  the 
city  was  in  existence  in  the  6th  cen- 
tury A.D.  In  1825  the  European 
troops  suffered  dreadfully  at  this 
station.  There  are  now  only  5  Euro- 
pean officers,  the  collector,  his  as- 
sistant, the  superintendent  of  police, 
the  executive  engineer,  ^nd  the  dvil 
servant.  In  the  centre  of  the  town  is 
the  Court  House,  a  handsome  building 
with  Greek  pillars.  Near  it  is  the  old 
Jail,  where,  in  1814,  the   prisoners 


Sect  11. 


EotUe  27. — Ahmaddhdd. 


338 


tried  to  break  oat,  and  the  riot  was 
not  quelled  till  19  were  killed  and  12 
wounded.  Not  far  from  the  Court 
House  is  a  Jain  Temple,  with  beautiful 
dark  wood  earring.  Outside  the  E. 
gate  is  the  new  Jail.  Outside  the  S. 
gate  are  the  Reading  Boom  and  Li- 
brary and  a  Clock  tower,  built  in  1868. 
100  yds.  beyond  on  the  Ydtrak  is  the 
collector's  house,  and  1}  m.  to  the  8.E. 
is  th«^  cantonment,  now  deserted,  ex- 
cept by  the  police.  The  church,  built 
in  1825,  cost  rs.  80,000,  and  is  described 
by  Heber  as  *' large  and  solid  but 
clumsy."  Ma^mi!idAb4d  was  founded 
by  Mahmtid  Begada  in  1479.  There 
are  two  tombs  1}  m.  E.  of  the  town, 
built  in  1484  in  honour  of  Mubdrak 
Saiyid,  a  minister  of  Ma^^mtid.  Ex- 
clusive of  the  porch,  it  is  94  ft.  sq. 
and  60  high,  with  52  pillars  and  a 
marble  floor.  For  simplicity  of  plan, 
and  solidity  and  balance  of  parts,  it 
stands  almost  first  among  Indian  Mau- 
soleums. Begada  also  constructed  the 
Bhamaria  well.  It  has  2  stone  arches, 
on  which  it  was  said  the  king*8  swing 
was  hung.  It  is  74  ft.  long  by  24 
broad,  is  entered  by  4  winding  stairs, 
and  has  8  underground  chaml^rs.  At 
A'nand  a  branch  railway  runs  to  PAll, 
32^  m.  At  18}  m.  is  Ddkiir,  where 
Pildjl  G^kwad  was  assassinated. 
Here  is  a  famous  image  of  Krishna, 
brought  from  Dw4rka  in  Edthiawi&d 
in  the  12th  century.  The  Temple  was 
built  in  1772  by  GopAl  Jagann^th 
Tdmbekar  of  S4t4r4,  the  Peshw^'s 
banker.  It  measures  168  ft.  from  E. 
to  W.  and  151  from  N.  to  S.  It  has 
8  domes  and  24  turrets,  the  highest 
90  ft.  high.  The  idol's  throne,  a  beau- 
tiful piece  of  wood  carving,  has  lately 
heeaa.  covered  with  gold  and  silver  by 
H.  H.  the  Q4ekw4d.  The  chief 
gatherings  are  at  the  full  moon  in 
October  and  November,  when  from 
50,000  to  100,000  pilgrims  assemble. 

Ahmaddbdd, — This  city,  once  the 
greatest  in  Western  India,  and  said  in 
the  Oazetteer  lately  published  by  Gro- 
vemment  to  have  been  from  1573  to 
1600  the  **  handsomest  town  in  Hindi!is- 
tin,  perhaps  in  the  world.'*  In  Sir 
Thomas  Bcne's  time,  we  are  told,  "  it 
was  a  goodly  city  as  lai^e  as  London." 


It  is  still  the  capital  of  a  coUectorate 
which  has  an  area  of  3854  sq.  m.,  and 
a  pop.  of  829,637  souls,  or  215*82  to 
the  sq.  m.  It  is  situated  on  the  1.  b. 
of  the  Sdbarmati  Biver,  173  ft.  above 
mean  sea  level,  50  m.  N.  of  the  head 
of  the  Khambdyat  Gulf.  It  covers  an 
area  of  2  sq.  m.,  and  is  therefore  about 
the  60th  part  of  the  size  of  London. 
It  was  founded  on  March  4, 1411,  by 
Sultan  A^mad  L,  who  made  Asaval 
his  capital.  It  passed  through  two 
periods  of  greatness,  two  of  decay, 
and  one  of  revival    From  1411   to 

1511  it  grew  in  size  and  wealth  ;  from 

1512  to  1572  it  declined  with  the 
decay  of  the  dynasty  of  Gujardt. 
From  1572  to  1709  it  renewed  its 
greatness  under  the  Mu|^ul  Emperors, 
and  from  1709  to  1809  it  dwindled 
with  their  decline,  and  from  1818  to 
1878  it  again  increased  under  British 
rule.  It  should  be  added  that  Earan 
B4j4  of  AnhalvAdd  (1072—1094)  made 
Asdval  his  capital,  and  called  it  Eara- 
ndvati  (Bis  M&U,  pp.  79, 80, 89).  Be- 
fore that  As&val  had  been  one  of  the 
chief  places  in  Gujarit  (Al  Bimni, 
970—1039).  The  B.  B.  and  C.  L 
Bailway  runs  all  along  the  E.  side  of 
the  city,  the  railway  station  being  264 
yds.  to  the  S.E.  of  the  EAlupiir  Gate. 
The  other  gates  of  the  city  are  the 
Pinchkuva  Gate  on  the  E.  side, 
720  yds.  to  the  S.  of  the  Eilupiir ; 
the  Sdrangpiir,  260  yds.  S.  of  the 
Pdnchkuva  ;  the  BAypiir  and  Astodiva 
Gates,  814  and  1232  yds.  W.  of  thft  Sd- 
rangpilir  Gate;  the  Makudha  and 
Jamilpdr  Gates  on  the  S.  side  of  the 
city,  710  yds.  and  355  yds.  E.  of  the 
river's  bank ;  the  Ehdn  Jah4n,  also 
on  the  S.  side  and  close  to  the  river  ; 
the  Bdykhad  Gate  on  the  river,  900 
yds.  N.  of  EhAn  JahAn  ;  the  BAm, 
Bdrddari  and  EhAnpAr  Gates,  all  on 
the  W.  side  near  the  river,  470,  880, 
and  1320  yds.  respectively  from  the 
Biykhad  Gate.  On  the  N.  side  is  the 
Shih&pi!ir  Gate,  264  yds.  from  the  river 
to  the  E.  ;  the  Dilli  Gate,  968  yds.  to 
the  E.  of  the  ShAhipiir ;  the  Darydptir, 
616  yds.  to  the  E.  of  the  Dilli  ;  and 
the  Premdbhdi,  at  the  same  distance 
from  the  DaryApiir.  According  to 
the  Swrvey  BegiHer  of  1824  the  city 


384 


Boute  27. — JSaroda  to  Ahmaddbdd. 


Sect.  II. 


was  divided  into  19  wards.  9  of 
these  were  to  the  N.,  and  beginning 
from  the  N.W.  followed  in  Sie  fpl- 
J owing  order  eastwai*d  : — KhAnp&r, 
Sh^hapih',  Mirz^ptb:,  Idaiya,  Darjd- 
piir,  Jauhariv^da,  Denknva,  Tinlimbdi, 
Bhanderipi!ir.  Those  on  the  S.,  in  the 
same  order,  are  the  Bbadr,  Kha^  Bdzdr, 
Kdykhad,  Jamdlpitr,  P^nkor,  Mauik 
('hok,  Astodiya,  K^yapiir,  ISarangpiir, 
and  Khadiya.  The  city  walln,  ex- 
lending  on  the  W.  along  the  Sabar- 
mati  IJm.,  and  stretchiug  E.  about  \\ 
m.,  comprise  an  area  of  2  ei\.  ni.,  of 
which  the  cjuartere  of  the  N.  and  E. 
jirc  the  most  thickly  i)eopled.  The 
Mirdt-i-Alimadi  (1748—1762)  gives 
ihe  names  of  110  subm-bs,  but  at 
I)resent  there  are  only  16,  with 
a  pop.  of  11,741,  while  the  city 
within  the  walls  has  116,873.  The 
suburbs  on  the  N.  are  7  :  K^gadapeth, 
Uttampi^a,  M^dhavpdra,  H^tlpiira, 
Borradailepi!ira,  Fulpiira,  and  Fateh- 
pi^ra  ;  on  the  E.  4  :  Saraspiir  Railway 
^)uburb,  Rdjpiir,  and  Gomtipi^ ;  and 
on  the  S.E.  6  :  B^avdnlpiira,  Raghu- 
ndthpiira,  Kagadapeth,  Vaghrivddd, 
and  KaDgdlpiira.  With  regard  to  these, 
it  may  be  said  that  most  of  the  houses 
in  Madhavpi^ra  are  warehouses,  and  it 
is  the  great  business  suburb.  The 
Borradailepiii'a  was  founded  in  1871, 
by  the  Collector,  Mr.  A.  Borradaile, 
C.S.,  who  did  for  A1]imaddbdd  what 
Mr.  T.  Hope  did  for  ^'urat.  Saraspiir 
is  a  distinct  walled  town,  the  larj^cst 
of  the  suburbs,  with  an  area  of  2«> 
acres.  In  this  suburb  is  the  Jain 
Temple  of  Chintdman,  finished  in 
1868  by  Shdntidds,  a  rich  merchant, 
at  a  cost  of  Rs.  900,000.  Aurangzib 
defiled  it  by  having  a  cow's  throat  cut 
in  it,  and,breaking  the  images,  changed 
it  into  a  mosque.  The  Jains  petitioned 
the  Emperor  Sh4h  Jah4n,who  ordered 
his  son  to  repair  and  restore  the  tem- 
i)le.  But  in  1666  Thevenot  speaks 
of  it  as  a  mosque  ("Voyages."  v.  28). 
2S.E.  of  this  suburb  is  the  Malik  Sh'abdn 
lake,  with  an  area  of  35  acres.  The 
Railway  Suburb  was  founded  in  1863 ; 
the  station  cost  £11,000.  In  this 
suburb  are  two  cotton  mills,  two  gin- 
ning factories,  a  sugar  factory,  and 
two  rast-houses,  Imili  by  Rao  Bahddur 


Bechard^  Ambiid^,  C.S.I.,  and  Ma- 
ganbhdi,  local  merchants.  In  Kdgada- 
peth  is  the  leper  hospital.    The  can- 
tonment lies  N.£.  of  the  city,  at  the 
distance  of  2  m.,  and  is  reached  by"  a 
well-watered  road  in  an  avenne   of 
splendid  trees.    The  site  was  chosen 
by  Sir  J.  Malcolm  in  1830.    The  camp 
faces  the  E.  bank  of  the  river,  ¥rith 
lines  for  two  regs.  N.  I.  in  front,  an*l 
those  for  the  English  soldiers  on  the 
1.  bank  and  rear.    This  is  the  head- 
quai'ter  station  of  the  N.  division  of 
the  Bombay  army,  and  is  commanded 
by  a  major-general.     The  troops  ai*e 
now  reduced  to  one  half -battery  R.  A., 
1  company  Eur.  Inf.,  1  N.  I.  battalion, 
and  a  Depot.    The  English  church  is 
in  the  Idariya  quarter,  628  yds.  nearly 
due  S.  of  the  Dilli  Gate,  on  the  1. 
hand  side  of  the  road.      On  the  r. 
hand  side  of  the  road,  232  yds.  S.  by 
W.  of  the  church,  is  the  T.  B.,  and 
having  located  himself  here,  the  tra- 
veller may  pi*oceed  to  see  the  sights, 
first  of  all  of  the  city,  and  then  of  the 
surrounding    plain.      His    first    visit 
should  be  to  the  Bhadr,  which  is  the 
citadel.     In  the  E.  face  is  the  Jail, 
which  was  built  by  'As;am  Kh4n,  the 
23rd  Viceroy  (1636-1642),  "who  was 

'  called  Udai,"  the  white  ant,"  from  his 

,  love  of  building.  Over  the  entrance  is 
a  Pei-sian  chronogium,  which  may  be 
translated,  "  Echo  was  asked  to  give  a 
date ;  a  Voice  said.  The  house  of  favor 
conceals  the  year  1046  A.H."=1636 
A.D.  Originally  a  Sardl,  or  palace 
set  apart  for  nobles  who  came  from 
Dilli,  it  then  became  a  college,  and 
then  the  PeshwA's  Arsenal.  The  walls 
are  very  thick,  and  there  is  a  tower 

!  56  ft.  high,  which  overlooks  the  wards 
of  the  male  prisoners.    The  women's 

,  separate  ward  is  removed  from  view. 

i  Tliere  are  about  520  prisoners,  of 
whom  40  are  females.  Boys  are 
punished  with  the  cane  or  sent  to  the 
Reformatory  at  Puna.  There  are  six 
solitary  cells,  not  much  used,  as  Indian 
prisoners  rather  prefer  them.  The 
men  arc  employed  in  carpentering, 
carpet  making,  etc. ;  they  make  blan- 
kets, for  which  the  chio^e  is  R.  1 
14  as.  each.  The  carpets  are  not 
cheap,  costing  Rs.  50  for  a  very  mid- 


Sect  II. 


Route  27, -^Ahmaddbdd. 


335 


dling  one.  Refractory  women  are  put 
in  stocks  for  the  hands,  which  are 
passed  through  holes  in  a  sliding 
board;  this  is  raised  till  the  culprit 
stands  on  her  tip-toes,  and  the  punish- 
ment is  so  severe  that  it  is  not  pro- 
longed more  than  5  minutes.  A 
prisoner  costs  about  58.  a  month  after 
deducting  his  earnings.  The  en- 
trance to  the  Bhadr  is  veiy  hand- 
some. The  gate  is  18  ft.  high,  under 
an  archway,  and  opening  into  a  re- 
gular octagonal  hall  of  great  ele- 
gance, 374  ft.  in  diameter,  each  side 
containing,  in  the  upper  story,  an 
arched  gSlery,  having  in  front  a  low 
wall  of  open-cut  stone,  each  gallery 
surmounted  by  a  cupola.  Underneath 
this  hall  is  a  fine  vaulted  chamber, 
entered  by  a  flight  of  steps  at  each 
side,  and  having  in  the  middle  a  re- 
servoir and  fountain.  The  name  Bhadr 
is  taken  from  the  citadel  of  Anhal- 
vada,  which  was  dedicated  to  the 
goddess  Bhadra,  the  propitious  form 
of  Kdll.  The  A^madAbM  citadel  was 
built  by  the  Sul};An  Ahmad  in  1411. 
It  is  square,  has  an  area  of  43  acres, 
and  contains  162  houses.  It  has  8 
gates,  2  in  the  £.  and  1  in  the  S.W., 
which  are  large ;  3  smaller,  of  which 
2  are  in  the  N.  and  1  in  the  S. ;  and  2 
small  gates  in  the  W.  The  gate  in  the 
S.W.  comer  is  called  the  Ganesh,  and 
was  opened  in  1779.  Close  to  the  Jail 
is  a  temple  to  Bhadra  K^i  M4td. 
At  the  N.W.  end  are  the  collector's 
offices.  At  the  N.E.  comer  is  Sidi 
S'dld's  Mosque,  which  forms  part  of 
the  wall.  This  mosque  has  been  made 
the  Mdmlatd^r's  office,  and  to  prevent 
a  draught  from  the  windows,  they 
were  walled  up.  This  has  preserved 
the  most  beautiful  specimen  of  marble 
lattice  carved  work  that  exists.  The 
windows  were  originally  five,  but  the 
centre  one  has  been  built  up.  The 
windows  are  7  ft.  9  from  the  apex  of 
tbeir  arch  to  the  bottom  of  the  plain 
base,  which  is  10  inches  deep,  so  that 
the  carving  is  7  ft.  high  and  11  ft.  5 
broad,  not  10  ft.,  as  stated  by  Mr. 
Hope.  The  entrance  to  the  mosque  is 
on  the  E.  side,  where  the  walls  are 
24  ft.  10  high,  while  on  the  W.  they 
are  29;  the  difference  being  occasioned 


by  the  raising  of  the  ground  by  dibri*. 
The  building  is  71  ft.  7  from  N.  to  S. 
and  39  ft.  7  from  E.  to  W.     Mr.  Hope 
has  given  views  of  the  2nd  and  4tli 
windows.    No.  2  is  distinguished  by 
having  a  tree  worked  in  the  centre, 
the  shape  being  represented  by  the 
manner  in  which  the  marble  is  per- 
forated.    On  either  side  of  the  central 
tree  is  a  smaller  one  of  the  same  kind, 
and  two  palm  trees.    Mr.  Fergussou 
has  given  a  view  of  this  window  in 
his  "  Hist,  of  Arch.,"  p.  r>33,  and  says, 
"  It  would  be  difficult  to  excel  the 
skill  with  which  the  vegetable  forms 
are  conventionalised  just  to  the  extent 
required  for  the  purpose.    The  equal 
spacing  also  of  the  subject    by   the 
three  ordinary  trees  and  four  palms, 
takes  it  out  of  the  category  of  direct 
imitation  of   nature,  and  renders  it 
sufficiently   stractural   for  its  situa- 
tion ;  but  perhaps  the  greatest  skill  is 
shown  in  the  even  manner  in  which 
the  pattern  is  spread  over  the  whole 
surface.     There    are    some  exquisite 
specimens  of  tracery  in  precious  mar- 
bles at  Agra  and  DilU,  but  none  quite 
equal  to  this."   In  the  S.W.  comer  of  the 
Bhadr  is  A^mad  Shdh's  Mosque,  which 
is  perhaps  the  oldest  here,  being  built 
in  1414.     It  is  said  to  have  been  used 
as  the  king's  private  chapel ;  it  is  by 
no  means  well  kept,  and  the  enclosure 
in  which  it  stands  is  dirty  and  neg- 
lected.    On  your  1.,  as  you  advance 
towards  the  mosque,  is    the  Ganj-i- 
Shahld,  or  Store  of  Martyrs,  where 
were  buried  the  Muslims  who  were 
killed  in    storming  the  town.      The 
mosque  measures  155  ft.  10  from  N. 
to  S.  and  58  ft.  6  from  E.  to  W.    The 
faQade  is  almost  bare  of  ornament, 
with  ill-designed  pointed  arches.    The 
centre  arch  is  22  ft.  9  high,  and  the 
span  is  16  ft.  4.    It  has  two  smaller 
arches  on  either  side  ,•  the  two  mina- 
rets are  evidently  unfinished,  being 
only  26  ft.   10  high.    The  pulpit  is 
adorned  with  what  looks  like  laurel 
leaves,  and  has  nine  steps.    There  are 
24  rows  of  arches,  not  one  row  having 
more  than  8  or  less  than  4  pillars  ;  in 
all  there  are  156  pillars.     There  are  9 
domes  in  the  roof,  and  in  the  r.  hand 
corner,  as    you   eater,  is    a  gallery,- 


336 


Eoute  27. — Baroda  to  Ahmaddbdd. 


Sect.  IL 


which  was  probably  used  for  the 
ladies  of  the  royal  fiunil j.  The  ar- 
chitecture shows  the  first  attempts  at 
building  a  Muslim  edifice  in  what  had 
been  a  Hindii  city.  The  pillars  still 
bear  Hindti  figures  and  emblems. 

The  N.  pordi,  leading  into  the  lat- 
ticed ladies*  gallery,  is  Hindti  through- 
out, and  may  be  part  of  a  temple. 
The  pavement  is  of  white  marble ;  the 
pulpit  has  a  yellow  marble  balus^de 
and  white  marble  steps.  W.  of  this 
mosque  is  the  M&nik  Bnrj  or  Buby 
Bastion,  built  round  the  foundation 
stone  of  the  city.  It  is  53  ft.  high, 
and  used  to  contain  a  well  77  ft.  round, 
which  was  filled  up  in  1866.  There  is 
a  small  round  tomb  in  the  yard  near 
the  collector's  office,  which  is  said  to  be 
that  of  Ibrahim  Eull  Khdn,  a  Persian 
warrior.  After  this  the  traveller  may 
drive  to  the  old  cemetery,  which  is 
just  outside  the  Eh^n  Jah^n  Gate  in 
the  extreme  S.  of  the  city.  The  en- 
trance is  to  the  left.  Here  is  the  tomb 
of  *Abdu'r  Ba^mdn,  canal  surveyor, 
born  at  Porbandar,  May,  1839 ;  bap- 
tised 18th  May,  1845  ;  "  fell  asleep  in 
Jesus  3rd  April.  1876."  Here  also  is 
buried  Bulkley  John  Mackworth  Praed, 
son  of  the  banker  of  Fleet  Street,  Lon- 
don, and  near  him  Edward  Charles 
Watkins,  principal  Sadr  Amin  of  Ah- 
maddbdd, his  two  wives  and  five  chil- 
dren ;  also  Major  J.  D.  Morris,  author 
of  the  famous  hunting  songs  of  India, 
who  died  13th  April,  1835  ;  also  erected, 
by  order  of  General  Goddard,  the  tomb 
of  Captain  Thomas  (rough,  who  died 
of  the  wounds  he  received  in  the 
storming  of  Al^maddbdd  on  the  10th 
February,  1780.  This  cemetery  has 
long  been  closed,  and  there  is  a  new 
one  in  the  N.  part  of  the  cantonment. 
On  returning  the  Gdekwdd's  Palace, 
the  2nd  citi^el  of  Al^maddbid,  may 
be  visited.  It  is  a  vast  inclosure,  be- 
tween the  Bdykhad  and  Kh&n  JahAn 
Gates.  It  was  built  in  1738,  and 
strengthened  by  Ddmdji  G&ekwdd  in 
1757 ;  for  some  time  it  was  used  by 
the  English  as  barracks,  and  then  as 
an  arsenal,  but  is  now  only  an  ord- 
nance depot. 

The  traveller  may  then  drive  to  the 
mosquei  tomb,  and  college  of  BhujA'at 


Eh&n.  This  mosque  has  2  slender 
minarets  and  a  marble  floor,  divided 
by  piers  into  5  bays.  The  pulpit  steps 
are  of  yellow  marble,  and  over  the  ^- 
cove  are  written  the  creed  and  the 
date,  1107  AH.=1695  A.D.  The  walls, 
up  to  6  ft.,  are  lined  with  nuurble.  On 
a  small  slab  let  into  the  back  wall  are 
carved  the  words,  "Y4  Fatta|>,"  "O 
Opener  I "  The  tomb  is  of  brick,  with 
a  marble  floor,  much  destroyed.  It  is 
called  both  the  Marble  and  the  Ivory 
Mosque,  and  Forbes  in  his  Or.  Menu, 
A.D.  1781,  describes  it  as  being  *^  finely 
proportioned  and  proverbially  beauti- 
ful, with  a  handsome  tomb  and  a  once 
sumptuous  ruined  college."  After 
that  the  J&m*i  Masjid,  or  princi- 
pal mosque,  .may  be  visited,  of  which 
Mr.  Fergusson  says,  *^  though  not  re- 
markable for  its  size,  it  is  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  mosques  in  the  East.*' 
It  is  near  the  centre  of  the  city,  in 
M4nik  Chauk  or  Chok.  It  has  an 
Arabic  inscription,  which  gives  the 
date  827  A.H.,  and  was  finished  on  the 
4th  Jan.  1424,  by  SuUdn  A^^mad  I.  It 
stands  on  the  S.  side  of  the  main, 
street,  a  little  E.  of  the  3  gateways, 
once  the  centre  of  a  great  square. 
Passing  through  the  3  gates  you  turn 
to  the  left  up  a  fiight  of  8  steps,  very 
filthily  kept,  and  enter  the  court  of 
the  mosque.  On  the  N.  and  S.  porches 
lead  into  the  street,  and  on  the  E.  is 
an  inclosure,  in  which  is  the  tomb  of 
the  founder,  A^^mad  Shdh.  Inside 
measurement,  and  excluding  the 
mosque  itself,  the  court  is  275  ft.  from 
E.  to  W.,  and  218  from  N.  to  S.  There 
is  a  corridor  on  the  N.,  S.,  and  E. 
sides,  and  the  mosque  forms  the  W. 
side  and  faces  E.  On  the  N,  waJl  is 
written,  in  Arabic,  what  may  be  trans- 
lated into  English  thus:— '<0  God! 
may  thy  blessing  rest  on  Muhammad 
and  on  his  family,  and  may  the  bless- 
ing and  peace  of  God  be  on  Mul^ammad, 
Abiibakr,  'Umar,  'Usm&n  and  *A11." 
Then  follow  several  unconnected  words. 
On  the  S.  side  is  written,  *^  The  great 
Imim  is  Mu^^ammad,  O  Reviver  of  the 
Faith."  The  corridor  in  the  N.  and  S. 
sides  has  72  pillars,  36  on  each  side. 
The  E.  side  has  30  ;  in  all  102.  The 
pillars  are  square  and  plain,  except 


Sect  II. 


JRoute  27. — Ahmaddhdd, 


337 


that  oblongs  are  traced  in  relief  on 
their  sides;  they  are  all  10  ft.  8  in. 
high,  and  support  the  roof  of  the  cor- 
ridor. Pillars  and  mosque  are  of  white 
sandstone.  The  date  of  the  commence- 
ment of  the  mosque  is  given  by  the 
word  Bidchair,  thus  :  B=2  ;  Wi=«600  ; 
ai=10 ;  r=200 :  total,  812  A.H.  Khair 
gives  the  date  of  the  city,  being,  as 
shown  before,  810  a.h.  Thefa9ade  of 
the  mosque  consists  of  a  centre  arch 
34  ft.  high,  with  a  span  of  22  ft,  a 
smaller  arch,  and  then  5  small  arches 
on  either  side.  At  the  main  arch  lies 
a  black  slab  brought  from  Chintd- 
man's  Temple,  which,  according  to 
Mr.  Hope,  is  a  Jain  idol  turned  upside 
down  for  the  faithful  to  tread  on  ;  and 
touching  it  on  the  E.  is  a  white  marble 
crescent,  where  the  Im&m  stands  to 
pray.  There  are  15  cupolas  in  the 
roof,  which  is  of  three  stories,  with 
galleries  round  the  cupolas.  The  centre 
cupola  is  lirger  and  much  higher  than 
the  others.  The  mosque  itself  is  210 
ft.  from  N.  to  S.,  and  96  ft.  from  E.  to 
W.  The  2  minarets  lost  half  their 
height  in  the  earthquake  of  June  16th, 
1819;  but  according  to  the  curator  in 
that  of  1019  A.H.  They  are  now  43  ft. 
high.*  There  are  264  pillars  support- 
ing the  roof ;  but  according  to  Mr. 
Fergusson,  260.  They  are  in  26  rows, 
as  follows,  beginning  on  the  S.  side  : — 
12,  13,  7,  7,  1.3,  12,  12,  6,  6,  12,  12,  12, 
6,  6,  12,  12,  12,  6,  6,  12, 12, 13,  9, 9, 13, 
12.  All  these  rows  of  pillars  have  pi- 
lasters at  the  W.  end.  The  8  pillars 
in  the  facade  which  form  the  arches 
have  not  been  included.  On  a  marble 
slab  above  the  centre  of  the  3  prayer 
niches  are  these  words  in  Arabic : — 
"  This  high  and  far-stretching  mosque 
was  raised  by  the  slave  who  trusts  in 
the  mercy  of  God,  the  compassionate, 
the  alone  to  be  worshipped."  The 
Kur'4n  says,  "  Truly  mosques  belong 
to  God,  worship  no  one  else  with  Him." 
"  The  alave  who  trusts  in  God  the  Aider, 
NAsiru'd   dunyA  va  din  Abti'l  Fat^ 

*  In  1781,  Mr.  Forbes  in  his  "  Oriental  Me- 
moirs," said  of  them,  *'  a  circular  flight  of  steps 
led  to  a  gallery  near  the  top  of  each.  A  little 
force  at  the  arch  of  the  upper  gallery  made 
both  minarets  shake,  though  the  roof  of  the 
mosque  remained  unmoved. ' 

[i?0mday— 1880.] 


A]>mad  ShAh,eonof  Muhammad  Shah, 
son  of  SultAn  Mu^affar;  the  date  of 
the  building  is  1st  §afar,  a.h.  827." 
This  year  is  probably  the  year  of  the 
completion. 

Passing  through  the  gate  in  the  £. 
side  of  the  inclosure,  you  enter  the 
ground  in  which  is  the  mausoleum  of 
Ahmad  Shdh.  This  building  has  a 
portico  to  the  S.  with  18  pillais.  The 
room  in  which  are  the  sarcophagi  is 
35  ft.  10  in.  sq.  It  is  paved  with  marble 
of  different  colours.  The  sarcophagi 
are  under  the  dome,  and  are  8  ft.  4  in. 
from  N.  to  S.,  5  ft.  broad  from  E.  to  W., 
and  4  ft.  7  in.  high.  They  are  of  white 
marble,  richly  ornamented  with  carv- 
ings of  flowers.  The  centre  sarcopha- 
gus is  that  of  Ahmad  Shah,  the  one  to 
the  N.  is  that  of  his  son,  Muhammad 
Sh&h,  and  that  on  the  S.  is  that  of  his 
grandson,  Ku^b  Shdh.  Mr.  Hope,  p, 
47,  says,  "as  also  of  Ahmad  Shdh  II.; " 
but  this  appears  to  be  a  mistake,  as 
there  are  only  3  sarcophagi.  Over  the 
door  on  the  8.  side  is  an  inscription, 
which  may  be  translated  thus,  "  The 
lofty  tomb  of  Ahmad  Shdh,  the  King, 
whose  dome  rivals  the  vault  of  heaven 
in  height ;  though  it  had  many  at- 
tendants who  strove  to  keep  it  in 
order,  no  one  has  repaired  it  so  splen- 
didly as  that  respected  and  exalted 
man,  the  benefactor  of  the  present 
generation,  Farhatu'l  Mulk,  who  is 
pious,  generous,  and  faithful.  The 
date  of  his  office  is  given  by  the  poet 
Yahaya,  in  the  words  Farhat-i-mulk, 
A.H.  944=A.D.  1537.  This  writing  is 
the  work  of  Ahmad  Chhajju." 

Proceeding  50  yds.  to  the  E.  the 
traveller  will  arrive  at  the  tombs  of 
the  queens  of  Ahmad  Shah.  The  ap- 
proach is  so  bad  as  entirely  to  destroy 
the  effect  of  the  building.  You  turn 
from  the  main  street  to  the  1.  into  a 
narrow,  dusty  gully,  where  the  houses 
are  so  close  that  they  quite  shut  out 
the  facade  of  the  mansoleum.  You 
ascend  14  steps  to  the  platform  on 
which  the  edifice  is  built ;  you  then 
enter  a  portico  with  4  pillars,  but  at 
their  back,  in  the  fagade,  are  8.  All 
these  pillars  and  all  others  in  the  build- 
ing are  11  ft.  3  in.  high  to  the  top  of 
the  architrave.    In  the  fcyade  itself, 


338 


Houte  27. — Baroda  to  Ahmaddbdd. 


Sect.  11. 


at  the  back  of  the  8  pillars,  are  12 
more,  and  the  same  number  of  pi- 
lasters, and  8  highly  ornamented 
carved  receHses.  The  door  is  kept 
locked,  and  the  attendant  is  very  often 
absent,  but  a  smith  has  no  difficulty  in 
picking  the  lock.  The  building  is  121 
ft.  sq.,  outside  measurement.  Inside 
is  a  rectangular  court,  with  a  coiridor 
running  round  it,  the  roof  of  which  is 
supported  by  36  pillars.  In  the  centre 
are  8  large  sarcophagi  and  several 
small  ones.  The  centre  sarcophagus 
has  the  Ayat  i  Makmat  carved  round 
its  sides.  Mr.  Hope  says  there  is  a 
Persian  inscription,  but  this  appears 
to  be  a  mistake.  This  sarcophagus  is 
8  ft.  from  N.  to  S.,  4  ft.  6  in.  from  E. 
to  W.,  and  4  ft.  2  in.  high.  It  is  of 
white  marble,  finely  carved,  and  is  the 
tomb  of  MughlAl  Blbl.  One  to  the  N. 
is  that  of  Morkhl  Blbl ;  it  is  of  black 
stone  or  marble,  inlaid  with  white. 
One  or  two  of  the  sarcophagi  are 
ruined,  and  the  whole  place  bears  the 
marks  of  scandalous  neglect.  It  is 
stated  that  Al;[mad  Shdh  intended 
this  for  his  mausoleum,  but  on  being 
told  by  the  holy  personage,  Shdh 
Ganj,  that  those  who  should  be 
interred  within  a  certain  distance  of 
his  shrine  would  be  saved,  and  that 
this  was  just  outside  the  distance,  the 
SultAn  chose  the. nearer  spot  where 
his  tomb  now  is.  Were  this  building 
cleared  and  repaired,  and  the  unsightly 
houses  near  it  taken  away,  it  would  be 
one  of  the  finest  edifices  in  Aljmadd- 
bdd.  On  his  return  the  traveller  may 
look  at  the  Tin  Darwdzah,  or  Three 
Gateways,  built  by  Sal^dn  Ahmad  I., 
a  magnificent  stone  structure  with  rich 
carving,  which  crosses  the  main  street 
a  little  to  the  N.  of  the  J^m'i  mosque. 
The  roadway  of  the  centre  gate  is  20 
ft.  wide,  and  that  of  each  side  gate  17 
ft.  The  height  of  the  arches  is  25  ft. 
The  terrace  on  the  top  of  the  gateway 
"was  formerly  roofed  over,  but  was 
thrown  open  in  1877.  This  gatev^ay 
led  into  the  outer  court  of  the  Bhadr, 
known  as  the  Koyal  Square,  which  was 
1600  ft.  long  and  800  ft.  broad,  and 
was  surrounded,  in  1638,  by  two  rows 
of  palm  trees  and  tamarinds  (Man- 
delslo's  "  Voyages,"  76).    When  The- 


venot  saw  it,  in  1666,  there  was  a  veiy 
high  tree  in  the  centre,  with  a  target 
at  the  top  for  archery  practice.  Op- 
posite the  middle  of  the  Three  Gate- 
ways is  a  building  called  the  K4ranj, 
or  Fountain,  where  was  a  well  which, 
when  Delia  VaJle  visited  Al^maddbM 
in  1623,  supplied  the  whole  city  with 
water.  It  now  belongs  to  a  dealer  in 
European  goods.  In  front  of  it  and 
facing  the  Bhadr  Gate  is  a  municipal 
garden,  laid  out  in  1876-7  at  a  cost  of 
Ba.  10,000.  North  of  the  garden  is  the 
High  School,  and  to  the  W.  the  He- 
m&bhdl  Institute,  with  a  good  library 
and  newspapers  and  periodicals.  Near 
it  is  the  mosque  of  M^lik  Sh*abdn,  with 
an  inscription  that  says  that  it  was 
built  in  the  reign  of  Ku^bu'ddin,  by 
Sh'ab^n,  son  of  'Ln&du'l  mulk,  on  the 
2nd  of  Jumdd  I.,  856  A.H.s=21st  May, 
1452.  This  will  probably  be  sufficient 
work  for  one  day. 

On  returning  to  the  T.  -&  the 
traveller  may  look  at  the  English 
church,  Christ  Church,  which  is  71  ft. 
from  E.  to  W.  and  42  ft.  from 
N.  to  S.,  and  will  hold  180  persons. 
It  was  built  in  1848,  in  accordance 
with  the  petition  to  the  bishop,  dated 
Jan.  5th  of  that  year.  Its  style  is 
Elizabethan,  with  lancet  windows, 
pointed  tiled  roof,  and  western  belfry. 
There  is  a  dilapidated  Bangld  in 
the  cantonment,  which  is  used  for 
church  service,  but  is  totally  unfit  for 
that  purpose.  The  next  day  will  suffice 
to  see  the  chief  remaining  sights  in 
the  city.  The  first  building  to  visit 
will  be  the  Queen's  Mosque  in  Mirzd- 
piir,  which  is  132  yds.  to  the  S.  of  the 
T.  B.  It  was  built  probably  in  Sul^^n 
Ahmad  L's  reign.  Ascend  from  the 
road  13  steps  to  the  platform  on  which 
the  mosque  stands.  There  are  2  mi- 
narets unfinished  or  partly  destroyed 
by  an  earthquake,  and  now  33  ftw  4  in. 
high.  The  facade  consists  of  3  pieces, 
a  central  high  piece  and  2  wings.  The 
centre  is  as  high  as  the  minarets,  and 
is  46  ft.  from  N.  to  S.,  and  42  ft.  9  in. 
from  E.  to  W.  The  side  pieces  are  of 
the  same  breadth  from  E.  to  W.,  but 
only  28  ft.  from  N.  to  S.  and  23  ft. 
high.  Inside,  from  the  pavem^it  to 
the  gallery,  is  12  ft.  9  in. ;  the  root 


Sect  IL 


Houte  27. -^AhTnaddbdd. 


839 


has  3  domes,  and  is  sapported  by  36 
plain  pillars.  On  the  S.  wall  the  letters 
Jim  and  Sim  are  written.  The  dimen- 
sions here  given  differ  slightly  from 
those  in  the  Chvemment  Gazetteer, 
but  will  be  found  coirect.  To  the  N.E. 
of  the  mosque  is  the  Bo^ah  or  Tomb, 
which  is  38  ft.  6  in.  square.  There  are 
20  pillars  in  the  first  line,  a  pillar  at 
each  angle,  and  4  between  each  2  at 
the  angles.  In  the  second  or  inside 
row  are  12  pillars.  All  the  pillu^  are 
9  ft.  9  in.  high,  their  bases  are  2  ft.  4 
in.,  and  their  architraves  1  ft.  6  in. 
Under  the  dome  are  two  sarcophagi  of 
white  marble ;  the  central  one  is  the 
tomb  of  Rupdvati,  a  princess  of  Tdar. 
It  is  7 ft.  fromN. to  S.,  8  ft.  lOin. from 
£.  to  W.,  and  3  ft.  8  in.  high  from  the 
plinth.  It  is  in  good  preservation, 
while  that  on  the  W.  side  is  much  in- 
jured ;  both  are  ornamented  with  the 
chain  and  censer,  a  Hindii  device. 
This  Bo^ahis  25  ft.  6  in.  high  from  the 
pavement  to  the  top  of  the  dome  in- 
side. At  each  comer  is  a  smaU  cupola, 
prettily  carved  inside.  The  mosque  is 
now  claimed  by  the  butchers,  who 
have  possessed  tnemselves  of  it.  The 
Bof  ah  is  being  restored  at  a  cost  of 
Bs.  3000.  Mr.  Fergusson  has  given  a 
plan  of  this  mosque,  and  says,  at  p. 
533,  "  the  lower  part  of  the  minaret 
is  of  pure  Hindti  architecture.  We 
•can  follow  the  progress  of  the  develop- 
ment of  this  form,  from  the  first  rude 
•attempt  in  the  Jdm'i  Masjid  through 
•all  its  stages  to  the  exquisite  patterns 
of  the  Queen's  Mosque  at  Mirzdptir." 
From  this  the  traveller  will  go  to  the 
Mosque  of  Shekh  ^asan  (not  Hussain, 
:a8  the  Oovermnefni  Gazetteer  wrongly 
.'gives  it),  Mul^ammad.  Ghishti  in  Shih- 
ptir,  in  the  N.W.  angle  of  the  city,  not 
far  from  the  Sdbarmati,  and  880  yds. 
N.W.  of  the  Queen's  Mosque.  The 
lieight  of  the  central  piece  is  31  ft  5 
in.,  and  this  part  is  3/  ft.  10  in.  from 
K.  to  S.,  and  40  ft.  4  iu.  from  B.  to  W. 
The  wings  are  of  the  same  dimensions 
^rom  E.  to  W.,  and  18  ft.  from  N.  to  S. 
The  minarets  are  unfinished  ;  that  on 
the  N.  is  22  ft.  3  in.  hieh,  and  tl^t  on 
the  S.  17  ft.  5  in.  The  roof  is  snp- 
ported  by  36  piUara.  (^  w  S.  or  left 
4dde  of  the  central  arch  is  a  Persian 


quatrain,  which  may  be  translated 
thus : — 

The  Pole  of  the  Period,  Shekh  Hasan  built  the 

Mosque 
That  uiere  leligioos  people  might  pray  for 

him. 
When  the  Shekh  fomided  this  lofty  edifice 
Fbte  decreed  that  the  date  of  its  foundation 

should  be  found  from   "founded  by  the 

Shekh." 

This  chronogram  gives  the  date  973 
A.H.thus  :  B«2;  N=50;  A=l;  r=10; 
8h=300 ;  r=10 ;  Kh=600. 

The  10th  descendant  of  this  holy 
man  is  named  Mal^mM  Miy^  ;  he  is 
a  fine-looking  man  of  sixty-two,  \nth. 
Arab  features.  The  Government  Ga- 
zetteer says  that  if  finished  this  mosque 
would  have  been  one  of  the  most  beau- 
tiful in  A^madab^.  **The  body, 
simple  and  graceful,  arched  in  the 
under  story,  and  except  the  central 
window  fiat  in  the  upper,  is  a  happy 
attempt  to  combine  the  pillared  and 
arched  styles.  The  minarets,  perhaps 
in  too  great  contrast  to  the  plain- 
ness of  the  body  of  the  building,  are, 
for  richness  of  ornament  and  delicacy 
of  tracery,  equal  to  any  work  in 
A|^mad&b4d."  At  968  yds.  8.  of  the 
Sh&hpi!ir  Mosque  is  Saiyid  'Alam's 
Mosque,  built  about  1420  by  Abiibakr 
Qusaini.  The  inner  details  are  as  rich 
as  Hindii  art  could  make  them.  8.  of 
this,  170  yds.,  is  ShAh  Wajihu'ddln's 
tomb,  built  by  Saiyid  MurtafA  KhAn 
BukhArl,  11th  Viceroy,  1606-1609. 
This  is  a  very  beautiful  monument. 
The  traveller  will  now  drive  near  to  the 
JamAlptir  Gate,  in  the  extreme  S.W. 
of  the  city.  A  little  to  the  N.E.  of  the 
gate  is  Haibat  KhAn*s  Mosque,  which 
is  interesting  as  one  of  the  earliest 
attempts  to  combine  Mu^ammadan 
and  Uindilt  elements.  Haibat  KbAu 
was  one  of  the  noblemen  of  Al^imad 
8hAh*8  court.  The  mosooe  is  very 
plain,  78  ft.  9  in.  from  K.  to  S.,  and 
35  ft.  5  in.  from  S.  to  W.  The  front 
wall  is  plain,  pierced  by  3  small 
pointed  arches.  !rhe  minarets  are 
small  and  vdthout  ornament,  and  rise 
like  chimneys  from  the  vo^  With  a 
dwarfed  and  unUghted  clerestory,  the 
centre  is  barely  raised  fl^ve  ih»  side 
domes.    In  the  oentie  is  a  Hindii  dome 

z  2 


340 


Eoute  27. — Baroda  to  Ahinaddbdd. 


Sect.  II. 


of  great  beauty,  and  pillai's  taken  from 
different  temples,  with  every  variety 
of  rich  ornament.  Except  for  the  form 
of  its  dome,  the  outer  porch  would  suit 
a  Hindii  temple.  About  950  yds.  to 
the  N.E.  of  this  mosque  is  Dastiir 
Khan's,  built  in  1486  by  one  of  Mah- 
miid  Begada's  ministers.  Bemark  the 
open  cut-stone  screen  that  shuts  in  the 
cloister  round  the  courtyard.  In  the 
gateway  the  marks  of  shot  may  be  seen. 
A  few  yds.  to  the  E.  of  Dastiir  Khdn's 
Mosque  is  Asd  Bhll's  Mound,  the  site 
of  the  fort  of  the  Bhll  chief,  from 
whom  the  town  of  AsAval  had  its 
name.  S.  of  this,  70  yds.,  is  RAni 
Sipri's  Mosque.  This  mosque  has  been 
styled  in  the  Oovernment  Gazetteer, 
and  by  Mr.  Burgess,  R4ni  Asni's 
Mosque,  owing  to  the  Arabic  inscrip- 
tion having,  after  the  stereotyped  ex- 
tract from  the  Kur*^n  about  mosques, 
given  the  words  Al  musamm^t  ba 
RAnl  Asna.  If  this  be  the  correct 
reading,  Asna  must  mean  second  wife, 
and  is  not  a'  proper  name  ;  but  Ghu- 
l&m  *Ali,  who  has  charge  of  the  Jdm'i 
Masjid,  reads  the  words  Rani  Sapri. 
The  inscription  is  so  illegible  that  it 
is  difficult  to  make  out  the  letters ; 
but  as  all  the  local  authorities  are  in 
favour  of  the  mosque  being  called  that 
of  RAni  SaprA  or  Slpri,  it  would  be 
perhaps  better  to  assent  to  their  opi- 
nion. Mr.  Hope  says,  p.  45,  "  Rdnl 
8ipri  was  the  wife  of  a  son  of  AVmad 
Sh&h,  and  her  mosque  and  tomb  were 
completed  in  1431,  probably  by  her- 
self. They  are  the  first  of  a  series  of 
buildings  more  delicately  ornate  than 
any  that  preceded."  The  mosque  is 
64  ft,  from  N.  to  S.,  and  19  ft.  from  B. 
to  W.  Thei'e  are  6  double  pillars  in 
front  and  6  single  behind,  and  they 
are  all  10  ft  4  in.  high.  There  are  2 
minarets,  about  60  ft.  high,  having  4 
compartments  tapering  up  to  the  top. 
llie  Ro?ah,  or  Tomb,  is  36  ft.  square. 
The  roof  is  supported  by  12  pillai-s. 
There  are  2  sarcoi)hagi.  This  tomb, 
though  beautiful,  is  inferior  to  the 
tomb  and  mosque  of  Rupdvati  at  Mir- 
7api!ir.  On  returning  the  traveller  may 
yisit  the  mosque  of  Mu^dfig  Khan, 
which  is  350  yds.  to  the  E.  of  the  T.  B., 
and  was  built  in  1465  by  Jamdlu'ddin 


Mul^afi^  Khan,  governor  of  the  city 
in  1471  under  Ma|^miid  Begada,  It 
is  51  ft.  by  36,  with  minarets  55  ft. 
high.  It  is  the  best  preserved  of  all 
the  mosques ;  but  in  Mr.  Fergusson's 
opinion  the  design  is  faulty,  and  it  is 
inferior  to  the  Rdni  Slpri  Mosque.  S. 
of  this  mosque  is  the  Swami  N^dyan 
Temple,  finished  in  1850.  It  has  an 
octagonal  dome,  supported  on  12  pil- 
lars, and  is  a  fine  building.  Close  to 
it  is  the  Pdnjrdpol,  or  Asylum  for 
Animals.  The  inclosure  contains 
12,538  sq.  yds.,  surrounded  by  sheds, 
where  about  800  animals  are  lodged. 
There  is  albo  a  room  where  insects  are 
fed.  Close  to  the  S.  of  it  are  9  tombs, 
each  18  ft  3  in.  long,  called  the  Nau 
Gaz  Pirs,  "the  Nine  Yard  Saints." 
They  are  thought  to  be  twice  as  old 
as  the  city,  and  are  most  likely  the 
tombs  of  a  number  of  men  killed  in 
a  battle.  Having  now  visited  the  ob- 
jects of  interest  within  the  walls,  the 
traveller  may  next  visit  the  sights  in 
the  plain  outside.  For  12  m.  round 
A^maddb&d  the  country  is  full  of  in- 
teresting ruins ;  but  here  only  tlie 
principal  can  be  mentioned.  The  tra- 
veller will  first  drive  to  the  Dilll  Gate, 
and  just  outside  it,  on  the  right  of  the 
road,  he  wUl  find  Hdthi  Sing's  Temple. 
This,  together  with  a  rest-house  and 
mansion  close  by,  was  finished  in  1848, 
at  a  cost  of  Rs.  1,000,000.  In  front  is  a 
long  and  handsome  facade  of  a  man- 
sion, in  which  the  family  live.  Per- 
mission to  enter  should  be  asked  of 
the  family  before  the  visit.  The  en- 
trances, lobbies,  staircases,  and  rooms 
of  the  mansion  have  all  the  finish  and 
correctness  of  those  in  Europe.  You 
drive  under  an  archway,  turn  to  the 
left,  and  enter  a  cour^ard,  where 
chairs  are  placed  in  which  visitors  sit 
and  have  woollen  slippers  put  over 
their  shoes.  You  then  ascend  by  7 
steps  into  a  portico  38  ft.  high, 
richly  carved  and  supported  by  pil- 
lars. On  the  roof  on  either  side  of 
the  portico  arc  5  pagoda  domes.  Li 
all  there  are  53  of  these  domes,  one 
large  and  62  small.  A  Sansl^rit  in- 
scription on  the  left  of  the  door- 
way tells  the  story  of  the  construction. 
A   corridor  surrounds   the  court    in 


Sect.  II. 


Boute  27. — Ahmaddbdd, 


341 


which  the  Temple  stands.  This  corri- 
dor is  106  ft.  from  N.  to  S.  and  150 
from  E.  to  W.  Its  roof  is  supported 
by  56  pillars,  each  6  ft.  high,  to  where 
the  arch  springs  ;  the  arch  is  10  ft.  6 
high,  and  ii  ft.  2  broad.  Ascend  now  to 
the  Temple  from  the  portico  by  8  more 
steps.  Here  the  pillars  are  7  ft.  high. 
There  are  2  rooms,  an  onter  and  an 
inner,  in  which  latter  is  the  image  of 
Dharmn4th,  who  is  represented  as  a 
beautiful  youth,  with  a  sparkling  tiara 
of  imitation  diamonds.  Both  rooms  are 
paved  with  coloured  marbles,  chiefly 
from  Makr&m  in  Rdjpi!it&n^.  The 
ceiling  of  the  outer  room  is  dome- 
shaped,  but  is  covered  with  wire  to  keep 
off  birds.  There  are  16  stone  figures 
in  it,  about  3^  ft.  high,  representing 
musicians  and  dancing  women,  then  8 
figures,  and  then  4.  The  inner  room 
iH  20  ft.  diameter,  circular,  and  all 
of  marble.  Below  are  rooms  with 
Tirthankars,  and  all  round  the  corri- 
dor are  similar  rooms.  The  flies  in 
Ahmaddbdd  are  most  troublesome, 
but  in  this  Temple  they  are  quite  un- 
endurable. Mr.  Fergusson  says,  "  The 
form  is  very  perfect.  Each  part  in- 
creases in  dignity  to  the  sanctuary. 
The  exterior  expresses  the  interior 
more  completely  than  even  a  Gothic 
design,  and,  whether  looked  at  from 
its  courts  or  from  the  outside,  it  pos- 
sesses variety  without  confusion,  and 
an  appropriateness  of  every  part  to 
the  purpose  intended."  ("Hist,  of 
Arch."  iii.  258.)  It  must  be  owned, 
however,  that  the  carving  is  very  in- 
ferior to  that  of  Abii,  Lakkundi  and 
other  old  temples.  From  this  the 
traveller  will  drive  along  the  fine 
avenue  to  the  cantonment,  and  visit 
Dary&  Khdn*s  tomb.  He  was  a 
minister  of  Ma^mM  Sh^h  Begada, 
and  built  this  mausoleum  in  1453 
during  his  lifetime.  The  dome  is  9  ft. 
thick,  and  the  largest  in  Gujardt.  Not 
far  beyond  it  is  the  Chhot&  Sh^hi 
Bd|^,  where  it  is  said  the  ladies  of 
the  royal  l^arim  lived.  To  the  N.  of  it 
is  the  Shdhi  B&gh.  and  a  subterranean 
passage  is  said  to  communicate  be- 
tween the  two  places.  The  building 
was  erected  in  1622  by  Shdh  Jah4n, 
when  Viceroy  of  Al,imad4b4d,  to  give 


work  to  the  poor  during  a  season  of 
scarcity.  In  the  16th  century  this 
was  the  great  resort  for  the  people  of 
the  city.  The  ShAhi  Bdgh  is  close  to 
the  railway  bridge  over  the  SAbarmatl, 
on  which  river  it  looks.  A  mile  8.W. 
of  the  Sh&hi  Bdgh  is  Miydn  Khdn 
Chishtl's  Mosque,  built  in  1465  by 
Malik  Mak?iid  Vazlr  and  half  a  mile 
more  to  'the  S.W.  is  Achut  Bibl's 
Mosque,  built  in  1469,  by  'Im^u'l 
mulk,  one  of  Begad&'s  ministers, 
for  his  wife  Bibl  Achut  Kukl,  whose 
tomb  is  close  by.  There  were  seven 
minarets  here,  all  of  which  were 
thrown  down  and  destroyed  in  the 
earthquake  of  1819.  lietuming  from 
this  point,  the  traveller  will  drive  to 
the  N.E.  side  of  the  city,  to  Asdrva, 
which  is  about  half  a  mile  N.E.  of  the 
DaiyApiir  Gate,  where  are  the  wells  of 
Ddda  Harlr  and  MAtA  BhawAni.  Tlie 
real  name  of  DddA  is  said  by  the  local 
people  to  have  been  Hallm,  " mild.' 
and  they  call  him  Dddd  Hari,  and  not 
Harlr,  which  is  the  form  in  the  Cfo- 
vernmmt  Gazetteer.  He  is  said  to 
have  been  the  husband  of  the  DAi,  or 
Nurse  of  one  of  the  Kings.  You 
ascend  9  steps  from  the  road  to  the 
platform  in  which  the  well  is.  It 
commences  with  a  portico  of  hewn 
,  stone,  18  ft.  long,  from  N.  to  S.,  in- 
eluding  the  pillars,  and  15  from  E.  to 
W.  The  roof  of  the  portico  is  sup- 
ported bv  12  pillars,  10  ft.  high.  The 
length  of  the  wall  from  E.  to  W., 
reckoning  from  the  step  beyond  the 
fX)rtic(>,  is  157  ft.,  to  which  must  be 
added  the  circular  shaft,  27  ft.  6. 
in.  Plants  and  grass  are  growing 
all  over  the  stone  walls,  and  must . 
loosen  them  in  time.  You  descend 
two  flights  of  10  and  9  steps  to  the 
2nd  portico,  which  has  8  pillars 
and  8  pilasters.  On  either  side  are 
3  finely-carved  ornamental  niches. 
On  the  right  side  is  an  Arabic*  in- 

*  This  is  translated  thus:  "This  holy  and 
wholesome  wat<^r,  the  splendid  traveller's  rest- 
house,  enclosed  on  four  sides  by  can-ed  walls, 
with  a  grove  of  fruit  trees,  and  a  well,  were 
built  in  the  reign  of  Abii'l  Fat^  Ma^jniiid  Shdh, 
I  son  of  Muhammad  Sh&h,  son  of  A^mad  Bh4b, 
son  of  Muzaffar  Shdh  Bultdn.  Dated  th«* 
Metropolis  of  the  kingdom,  2d  of  Jumdda'l 
avvnl  in  the  Mh  year  of  his  reign."     See 


342 


Rovte  27. — Baroda  to  Ahmaddhdd. 


Sect.  II» 


scription,  and  on  the  left  one  in  Sans- 
krit. In  the  S^r.  are  the  dates  Samwat, 
1656,  and  Shaka,  1421  »  499,  and  the 
cost  is  stated  at  329,000  ma^iidifl  or 
half  rupees.  Yon  now  descend  19 
steps  to  the  3rd  portico,  which  has  4 
pillars  and  4  pilasters,  and  one  orna- 
mented niche  on  either  side.  Steps 
lead  down  from  this,  and  at  the  3rd 
water  is  reached.  On  a  level  with  it 
is  the  4th  portico,  with  8  pillars  and  8 
pilasters,  and  beyond,  bat  on  the  same 
level,  a  6th  portico,  with  2  pillars  and 
2  pilasters,  then  a  6th  portico,  with  8 
pillars  and  8  pilasters,  and  then  a  7th, 
with  2  pillars  and  2  pilasters,  and 
then  an  8th,  with  6  pUlars  and  6  pilas- 
ters. After  this  comes  the  circular 
well,  with  8  pillars  round  it,  and  a 
fence  wall,  2^  ft.  high.  The  shaft 
down  to  the  water  has  2  stories,  and 
from  the  top  of  the  upper  fence  wall 
to  the  water  is  26^  ft.  The  diameter 
of  the  gallery  is  14  ft.  10.  Beyond 
this  circular  well  is  another  for  irriga- 
tion, with  a  huge  leathern  bucket. 
This  latter  well  is  10  ft.  10  in  dia- 
meter. A  very  narrow  staircase  with 
2  flights  of  16  steps  each  leads  to  the 
level  ground,  where  by  the  side  of  the 
well  to  K.  and  S.  are  2  stone  Mandaps. 
About  60  yds.  to  the  W.  is  D^d  Hari's 
Mosque,  one  of  the  best  decorated 
buildings  at  A^mad&bM,  though 
there  is  no  marble,  and  the  stone  is  of 
a  dull  reddish-grey  colour.  The  bases 
of  the  2  minarets  to  the  height  of  17  ft. 
are  richly  carved.  They  have  4  stories. 
The  S.  minaret  is  41  ft.  9  high  to  the 
topmost  gallery,  and  thence  to  the  top 
of  the  cupola,  inside,  is  7  ft.  7  ;  total, 
49  ft.  4.  The  K.  minaret  Is  31  ft.  5 
high.  A  portion  of  this,  and  perhaps 
p^  of  the  other,  was  thrown  down 
by  the  earthquake  of  1819.  The  gal- 
leries of  these  minarets,  and  the  roof 
of  the  central  part  of  the  mosque  are 
supported  by  the  brackets  so  common 
at  Bljdnagar.  The  facade  has  a  cen- 
tral piece,  with  a  wing  of  lower  height 
on  either  side.  The  centre  piece  is  26 
ft.  7  high,  from  the  ground  to  the  roof. 

Government  OazetteeTf  p.  282.  The  diffi- 
culty about  the  dates  referred  to  there  is 
solved  by  the  one  being  tliat  of  Vikram,  the 
other  that  of  Sh&liv&hana. 


From  the  roof  to  the  top  of  the  central 
arch  is  8  ft.  6,  and  consequently  the 
central  arch  is  17  ft  1  high.  The 
central  dome  is  46  ft.  round  and  11  ft» 
high,  measuring  it  as  an  arc.  The  wings 
are  16  ft.  high.  On  either  side  of  the 
central  arch  is  a  very  small  arch. 
Then  comes  an  ornamental  carved 
window,  followed  by  4  pillars.  The 
total  length  of  the  facade,  which  runs 
N.  and  S.,  is  87  ft,  and  the  mosque 
from  E.  to  W.  is  20}  ft  deep.  The 
swell  of  the  carved  bases  of  the 
minarets  is  14  ft.  2.  Inside,  the  roof 
of  the  mosque  is  supported  by  16 
pillars,  10  ft.  high.  The  pulpit  has  7 
steps.  To  the  N.  is  the  Bozah  of 
Dddd  Harf ,  or  ffallm.  It  is  B^  ft.  sq.,. 
and  is  surrounded  by  a  corridor  8  ft.  2 
broad,  including  the  pillars,  which  are 
20  in  number.  The  building  inside 
the  corridors  is  23  ft.  6  sq.  The 
Bo^ah  has  2  stories,  and  at  the  top  a 
dome.  The  Ist  story  is  16  ft  high  ; 
the  2nd,  which  can  be  ascended  only 
with  a  ladder,  is  12  ft.  4  high.  The 
dome  is  89  ft.  in  periphery.  The  N. 
door  is  exquisitely  carved,  but  the 
inside  is  quite  plain.  There  are  5 
sarcophagi. 

Matd  BhoAcdni. — ^Thls  well  is  about 
100  yds.  N.  of  Didd  Harl's,  but  is 
much  older,  and  is  thought  to  be  of 
the  time  of  Karan,  when  A1^mad4b4d 
was  called  Earan&vatl.  You  ascend 
9  steps  to  the  platform  on  which  the 
well  is  built.  There  is  no  portico 
on  the  level  ground,  as  at  Dida 
Hari*s.  The  well  is  99  ft  long  from 
E.  to  W.,  but  33  ft.  must  be  added  to 
the  length  for  the  circular  shaft,  in 
which  is  a  temple  of  Bhaw&ni.  The 
breadth  is  17  ft.  The  descent  to  the 
water  is  by  62  steps.  The  porticos 
are  quite  plain,  and  the  well  is  alto* 
gether  inferior  to  that  of  D&d4  Harl. 

From  Asdrva  the  drive  may  be  pro- 
longed to  the  Bailway  Station,  where 
is  a  mosque,  with  handsome  lofty 
minarets,  which  alone  with  the  arched 
central  gateway  remain.  The  rest 
was  destroyed  in  the  struggle  with  the 
Mar4thas  in  1768.  Nearer  the  Station 
is  another  mosque,  of  which  nothings 
is  known,  and  which  does  not  require 
any  particular  notice.    Proceedtog  on* 


J 


Sect.  11. 


Route  27. — Ahmaddhdd, 


343 


wards  three-quarters  of  a  m.  S.  E.  of 
the  BAypiir  Gate,  you  come  to  the 
Qauz  i  KuJtb,  generally  called  the 
;Kdnkariya  Lake,  or  Lime  Pebble 
Lake.  This  reservoir,  one  of  the  largest 
of  its  kind  in  India,  is  a  regular  poly- 
gon of  34  sides,  each  side  190  ft.  long, 
the  whole  being  more  than  a  mile 
round.  The  area  is  72  acres.  It  was 
constructed  by  Sultdn  Kutbu'd-dln  in 
1451,  and  was  then  surrounded  by 
many  tiers  of  cut  stone  steps,  with 
6  sloping  approaches,  flanked  by  cu- 
polas and  an  exquisitely  carved  water- 
sluice.  In  the  centre  was  an  island, 
with  a  garden  called  Nagina  or  the 
Gem,  and  a  pavilion  called  Ghatta- 
mandal.  In  1781  the  approaches  and 
cupolas  were  in  ruins,  the  sides  of  the 
lake  in  bad  repair,  and  a  viaduct  with 
48  arches,  which  ran  from  the  side  of 
the  lake  to  the  island,  had  fallen  in.  In 
1872  Mr.  Borrodaile,  the  Collector, 
repaired  the  building,  and  made  a 
road  6600  ft.  long  to  the  RAypilr  Gate. 
It  is  proposed  by  a  canal  11m.  long 
to  connect  the  lake  with  the  KhAri 
River,  and  from  its  waters  to  supply 
the  Chandola  Lake,  N.E.  of  Batwa. 
On  the  E.  bank  of  the  lake  are  some 
Duteh  and  Armenian  tombs,  Saracenic 
in  style,  with  domes  and  pillars.  You 
ascend  a  slight  eminence  to  reach 
them ;  they  are  a  good  deal  ruined. 
The  dates  range  from  1641  to  1689 ; 
the  following  may  be  taken  as  speci- 
mens : — Wilhelm  Huysman.  Died  28th 
October,  1699. — Johann  Millissen,  On- 
der  Chirurgy.  Died  5th  August,  1679. 
— David  Boedyk. — Begraven  Cornelius 
Weyus  van  Banda.  Died  12th  Janu- 
ary^ 1699.  A  tombstone  plastered  with 
lime  in  a  peculiar  watered  style,  is 
inscribed  : — Begraven  Dalniel  Aima, 
obijt  28th  April,  anno  1664.  The 
epitaph  on  a  stone  with  the  date  1641 
is  illegible.  The  next  visit  will  be  to 
Sarkhej,  which  is  5  m.  to  the  S.W.  of 
the  Jamdlpiir  Gate.  A  bullock  cart 
for  this  expedition  will  cost  about 
Rs.  4,  and  the  whole  day  will  be  con- 
sumed in  the  journey.  The  road  is 
through  the  Jamalpiir  Gate,  and  across 
the  Sibarmati  River,  the  channel  of 
which  is  about  half  a  mile  broad,  but 
the  water  h\  the  dry  wgathcr  is  little 


more  than  a  foot  deep.  The  remains 
of  the  Railway  Bridge  will  be  seen 
about  100  yds.  to  the  S.*  Near  the 
bridge  the  city  wall  is  from  40  to  60  ft. 
high.  The  road  from  the  river's  bank 
is  a  very  dusty,  heavy  one,  with  rich 
fields  on  either  side,  and  at  If  m.  is 
the  massive  brick  mausoleum  of '  Azam, 
and  Mu'a?izam  (called  Mozam  in  the 
Gazetteer),  built  probably  in  1457. 
These  brothers  are  said  to  have  been  the 
architects  of  Sarkhej,  and  to  have  come 
from  KhurAsAn.  The  immense  struc- 
ture which  contains  their  tombs  is 
raised  on  a  platform  3  ft.  6  high. 
The  inner  room,  in  which  are  4  ruined 
tombs,  is  M  ft.  10  sq.    The  walls  are 

12  ft.  thick.  The  facade  looking  on 
the  road  is  72  ft.  long  from  E.  to  W., 
including  the  towers  at  either  end. 
There  are  4  such  towers,  1  at  each 
comer,  34  ft.  high  to  the  gallery, 
whence  to  the  top  of  the  cupola  is 
8  ft.  9,  and  adding  the  plinth,  3  ft.  6, 
the  total  height  is  42  ft.  7.  The  cen- 
tral dome  is  129  ft.  round.  In  the 
square  inner  chamber  in  the  centre  of 
the  building  there  is  a  window,   at 

13  ft.  11  from  the  ground,  which  is 
5  ft.  7  high  and  5  ft.  3  broad.  Thence 
to  where  the  dome  springs  is  5  ft.  6, 
so  that  the  dome  begins  to  spring  at 
25  ft.  from  the  ground.  After  passing 
this,  the  road  becomes  rather  stony. 
About  300  yds.  from  the  principal 
buildings  at  Sarkhej  there  are  2  brick 
towers  about  30  ft.  high,  the  bases  of 
which,  close  to  the  ground,  have  been 
so  dug  away  that  it  seems  a  miracle 
they  do  not  fall.  After  another  200 
yds.  the  road  passes  under  2  arches, 
which  brings  you  to  the  courtyard  of 
Sarkhej.  On  entering  you  have  the 
tomb  of  Mal?miid  Begadd  and  that  of 
his  queen  on  the  1. ;  a  pavilion  in  the 
centre  ;  and  the  tomb  of  Shekh  Ahmad 
Khattu  Ganj  Balchsh,  called  also 
Maghrabi,  on  the  r.    To  the  W.  of  all 

*  In  the  Government  Gazetteer,  page  83, 
speaking  of  the  present  railway  bridge  over 
the  Sdbarmatl,  we  find  this,  "  It  stands  on  the 
site  of  the  fonner  bridge  destroyed  in  the 
1875  flood."  This  appears  to  be  a  mistake,  as 
the  present  bridge  crosses  the  river  between  3 
and  4  m.  to  the  N.  of  AhmaddMd,  whereas 
these  remains  are  to  the  S,  of  the  soutjieru 
jiart  of  the  city, 


344 


Route  27. — Baroda  to  Ahmaddhdd. 


Sect.  II. 


is  a  vast  mosque,  said  to  have  been 
built  bj  6anj  Baldish.  Beyond  this 
is  a  fine  lake,  with  2  ruin^  palaces 
on  the  further  shore.  Over  the  cen- 
tral door  of  the  saint's  tomb  is  a  Per- 
sian quatrain,  which  may  be  thus 
translated  : — 

When  the  ocean  of  A^nuul's  hand  pours  forth 

its  pearls 
The  lap  of  Hope  is  fortunately  enriched  with 

the  store ; 
It  is  no  wonder  if  for  the  obeisances  at  his 

shrine 
The  surfiioe  of  the  earth  should  all  rise  up. 


The   word   translated   rise    up   is 
Sarkhej,  the  name  of  the  place.    It 
gives  the  date  877  A.H.  as  follows  : — 
S  -  60,  R-200,  Kh  600,  E  =  10,  J  or 
Z  s7.    This  mausoleum  is  the  largest 
of  its  kind  in  Gujarat,  and  haa  through 
its  whole  length  stone  trellis   work, 
and  round  the  tomb  a  beautifully  cut 
metallic  screen.    Ganj  Bakhsh  was  a 
resident  in  Anhalw&dd,  and  was  the 
spiritual  guide  of  Sul^dn  Ahmad  I.  ; 
he  retired  to  Sarkhej  and  died  there 
in  1445.      His  tomb  was   begun  in 
1445,  by  Muhammad  IL,  and  finished 
by  his  son  Eu1;bu'd-din  in  1451.   Mal^- 
miid  Begad&  constructed  the  lake  built 
at  its  S.  W.  comer,  and  a  splendid  palace, 
and  raised  opposite  the  saint's  tomb  a 
mausoleum  in  which  he,  his   queen 
Edjbdi,  and  his  son  Mu^afEar  II.  were 
buried.    Ganj  Bakhsh  died  at  the  age 
of  111,  and  the  chronogram  is  Ku^.b, 
as  follows:  K=:100,  t=9,  b-=2,'total 
111,  his  age.    There  are  14  pillars  in 
the  front  row  in  Ganj  Bakhsh's  tomb, 
and  there  are  12  rows,  and  every  4th 
pillar  is  a  double  one,  thus  there  are 
168  pillars    in    all.      There    are    52 
cupolas  besides  the  large  central  one. 
The  pillars  are  15  ft.  11  high,  and  from 
the  floor  to  the  ceiling  is  7  ft.  6.  From 
the  floor  to  the  top  of  the  cupolas  in- 
side is  20  ft.  5.     At  the   S.  of  the 
Saint's  tomb  is  that  of    his  disciple 
and  deputy,  SheWi  SaW^^u  'd-dln.    The 
surroundings  of   the   door   into  the 
shrine  are    inlaid  with   glass.      The 
dome  inside  is  covered  with  gold  and 
silver  leaf,  and  looks  rich.     A  silver 
chain  hangs  from  the  ceiling,  but  half 
its    length     was     stolen     50    years 
ago.     The   pavement  is   of   colored 


marble,  and  the  beautiful  stone  called 
Sang  i  Maij&n,  which  has  the  appear- 
ance of  being  powdered  with  gold. 
The  building  inside  is  octagonal,  and 
is  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  brass 
lattices.  The  whole  edifice  is  150  ft.  7 
from  N.  to  S.,  and  168  from  E.  to 
W.  The  corridors,  including  the  pil- 
lars, are  10  ft.  8  broad,  and  the  pillars 
of  the  corridors  are  10  ft.  7  high.  Jn 
the  3  sides  there  are  altogether  54 
pillars.  This  tomb  receives  Bs.  230 
yearly  from  the  adjacent  village  of  Ma^- 
barah,  which  signifies  "  tomb."  The 
pavilion  in  the  centre  of  the  court  has 
3  cupolas,  and  4  rows  of  4  pilliGrs  each. 
The  present  Sdl^ib  i  Sajj^dah,  literally 
occupier  of  the  prayer-carpet,  chief 
manager  of  the  building,  is  Ahmad 
'All  BAbA  Sal^ib,  a  Saiyid  of  Tarmuz. 
The  mosque  adjacent  to  the  tomb  is 
said  to  have  been  built  by  the  saint ; 
it  has  10  large  domes  and  31  cupolas. 
The  conidors  have  34  cupolas ;  the 
pillars  in  the  mosque  are  15  ft.  7  high, 
and  are  thus  arranged : — 


8 
4 
4 
9 
9 
5 
5 
9 
9 
& 


1st  row  to  tlie  south 

2nd 

it 

II 

3rd 

M 

II 

4tli 

l> 

II 

6th 

It 

II 

6th 

tt 

II 

7tli 

If 

11            • 

8th 

f  f 

II             ■ 

9th 

i> 

II             • 

10th 

ft 

II            ■ 

11th 

II 

II             • 

12th 

II 

II             ■ 

13th 

II 

II 

14th 

II 

II            • 

15th 

II 

II            * 

16th 

II 

ft            ' 

17th 

II 

)i            * 

18th 

II 

)i            * 

19th 

II             1 

1           • 

20th 

II             > 

1 

5 

9 

9 

5 

5 

9 

9 

I 

6 

8 


Going  on  to  the  1.  is  Rdjbdi's  tomb, 
which  is  23  ft.  from  E.  to  W.,  and  21 
ft.  7  from  N.  to  S.  There  are  three 
sarcophagi  measuring  7  ft.  7  from  N. 
to  S.,  4  ft.  from  E.  to  W.,  and  3  ft.  9 
in  height.  They  are  of  white  marble, 
ornamented  witJi  carvings  of  incense 
cups  and  chains.  Next  to  this  is  the 
tomb  of  Mal^miid  Begada,  which  is 
72  ft.  3  from  N.  to  S.,  and  69  ft  from 
E.  to  W. ;  the  inner  room  is  37  ft.  10 
sq.  The  sarcophagus  is  8ft.  7  from 
N.  to  S.,  6  ft.  from  E.  to  W..  and  4  ft. 


Sect.  IL 


BoiUe  27. — Ahmaddbdd. 


845 


3  high.  There  are  28  pillars  inside, 
and  32  outside,  10  ft.  9  high.  The 
lake  covers  17^  acres,  and  is  a  work  of 
gi^at  beauty ;  it  is  oblong,  and  sur- 
rounded by  flights  of  stone  steps.  The 
supply  sluice  is  richly  decorated.  "With 
the  lake,  the  Sarkhej  buildings  form 
the  most  beautiful  group  in  A^ma- 
ddbid.  They  belong  to  the  best  period 
of  the  style,  and  hays  the  special  in- 
terest of  being  almost  purely  Hindii, 
with  only  the  faintest  trace  of  the 
Mu};iammadan  style.  Numbers  of  men 
and  women  bathe  in  the  tank,  eyen 
though  a  fat  alligator  is  lying  beside 
them  on  the  steps.  A  little  S.  of  the 
lake  is  the  tomb  of  B&bd  'All  Sher,  a 
saint  even  more  venerated  than  Ganj 
Bakhsh.  It  is  small,  ugly,  and  white- 
washed. Close  by  are  the  remains  of 
Mirzd  Khan  Kh&n&n's  Qarden  of 
Victory,  laid  out  in  1584  after  his 
defeat  of  Muzaffar  III.,  the  last  Ahma- 
ddbdd  king.  In  the  17th  century 
Sarkhej  was  so  famous  for  indigo,  that 
in  1620  the  Dutch  established  a  factory 
there. 

Another  expedition  may  be  made  to 
Batwa,  which  is  almost  due  S.  of  the 
Rdypiir  Gate  and  about  3  m.  from  it. 
Here  BurhAnu'd-din  Kujbu  '1  'Alam, 
the  grandson  of  a  famous  saint  buried 
at  Uch  on  the  Satlej,  is  interred.    He 
came  to  the  Court  of  Sul(dn  Ahmad  I. 
settled  at  Batwa,  and  died  there  in 
1452.    The  nobles  of  SuU.4n  Ahmad's 
court  and  of  his  two  successors  built  a 
mosque  and  a  vast  mausoleum  there. 
The  other  buildings  are  like  those  at 
Sarkhej.  in  the  flat  Hindii  style  without 
arches  or  minarets,  but  at  Batwa  the 
arch  takes  the  place  of  the  beam  in 
the  large  mausoleum,  and  the  dome  is 
raised  by  a  second  tier  of  arches.    The 
tomb  is  of  the  most  elaborate  work-  j 
manship,  but  the  building  is  incom- 
plete.   Returning  from  this  visit  the 
traveller  may  go  to  Shdh  'A'lam,  which 
is  about  1  m.  to  the  S.E.  of  the  Rdypiir 
Gate.    Before  reaching  the  tomb  you 
pass  under  2  plain  gateways,  and  then 
through  one  with  rooms   above  the 
archway,  and  which  was  the  Nak4r 
KhAnah.    You  then  enter  a  vast  court. 
To  the  W.  is  the  mosque,  which  has 
2  minarets  of  7  stories,  handsomely 


carved  and  about  90  ft.  high.     The 
galleries  are  supported  with  brackets 
like  those  at  BijAnagar.    The  facade  of 
the  mosque  has  3  large  arches  and  4 
smaller  ones;  the  larger  arches  have 
17  ft.  9  spans,  the  smaller  12  ft  9. 
There  are  6  rows  of  3  pillars  each  in 
the  mosque.  The  tomb  of  Shdh  *Alam, 
who  was  the  son  of  the  saint  buried  at 
Batwa,  is  to  the  E.,  and  is  protected 
by  metal  lattices  which  keep  out  the 
birds.     Shdh  'Alam  was  the  spiritual 
guide  of  Ma^mtid  Begada,  and  died  in 
1495.    To  the  S.  is  an  assembly  hall 
built  by  Mugaffar  III.   (1561-1572), 
and  partly  destroyed  by  the  British  in 
1780  to  furnish  materials  for  the  siege 
of  the  city.    The  tomb  is  said  to  have 
been  built  by  TAj  KhAn  NariAll,  one 
of  Mal^mM's  courtiers.    Early  in  the 
17th  centuiy  A§4f  Khdn,  brother  of 
the  Empress  Niir  Jaban,  adorned  the 
dome  with  gold  and  precious  stones. 
The  floor  of  the  tomb  is  inlaid  with 
black  and  white  marble,  the  doors  arc 
of  open  brass  work,  and  the  frame  in 
which  they  are  set,  as  well  as  what 
shows  between  the  door-frame  and  the 
2  stone  pillars  to  the  r.  and  1.  is  of 
pure  white  marble  beautifully  carved 
and  pierced.    The  tomb  itself  is  en- 
closed by  an  inner  wall  of  pierced 
stone.    The  outer  wall  in  the  N.  is  of 
stone  trellis-work  of  the  most  varied 
design,   and   here    Shekh   Kabir,  re- 
nowned for  his  learning,  who  died  in 
1618,  is  buried.    The  mosque  was  built 
by  Mu};iammad  Sdlih  Badakhshl.    The 
minarets  were  begun  by  Nizdbat  Khdn 
and   finished    by   Saif  Khdn.     They 
were  much  damaged  by  the  earthquake 
of  1819,  but  have  been  repaired,  and 
are  now  in  good  order.    To  the  S.  of 
the  mosque  is  a  tomb  like  that  of  the 
chief  mausoleum  where  the  family  of 
ShAh  *  A'lam  are  buried.    Outside  the 
wall  to  the  W.  is  a  reservoir,  built  bv 
the  wife  of  Tdj  KhAnNariAli.    Another 
day  may  be  spent  in  visiting  the  mo- 
nastery of  Pirdna,  which  is  at  the  vil- 
lage of  Giramtha,  9  m.   S.  of  Aljimn- 
dAbdd.    The  mausoleums  are  those  of 
Im4m  ShAh,  Ki^shdh,  Surdbh&i,  Bdld 
Muhammad   and    BAkir   *Ali.      The 
legend  is  that  Imdm  Sh&h  came  from 
Persia  in  1449,  and  pei-formed  certain 


346 


Umite  28. — Ahmaddbdd  to  Wadhtodn. 


Sect.  II. 


miracles,  which  induced  Bf  u^ammad  II. 
to  give  him  his  daughter  in  marriage  ; 
by  her  he  had  4  scms,  ancestors  of  the 
present  Saiyids  of  Flrina.  On  the 
anniversary  of  Imdm  Sh4h*8  death  a 
fair  is  held,  attended  by  many  Hindiis. 
His  disciples  are  chiefly  Br^hmans  and 
Hindil  snopkeepers  and  caltivators  ; 
none  of  them  are  Muslims.  Aboat 
^m.  outside  the  Jam41piir  Gate  are 
B&bd  LiilM's  Mosque  and  Abii  Tur&b's 
tomb.  The  former  was  built  by  a 
pearl  merchant  in  1560,  and  is  a 
pleasing  building.  The  latter  was  built 
by  one  of  Akbar's  courtiers,  who  was 
made  by  the  emperor  in  1579  chief  of 
the  Makkah  caravan,  and  brought  back 
a  stone  with  the  print  of  the  Prophet's 
foot.  The  tomb  is  simple  and  graceful, 
41  ft.  sq.,  with  a  double  colonnade  of 
pillars.  There  are  many  other  inter- 
esting ruins  near  A^mad&b^,  but 
these  are  the  principal,  and  to  see  all 
would  take  months. 


ROUTE    28. 

ahmadabAd  to  wadhwAk. 

The  following  are  the  ttagen  by  the 
B.  B,  and  C,  I,  BaHmay, 


Dist.  from 
Bombay. 


Miles. 
300^ 
312X 
819} 
827 
834 
3421 
3491 


359!^ 
368: 
875: 
389i 


Names  of  Stations. 


Al}Lmad4bdd 
Sdbarmati 
A'mbli  Road 
Bdnand 
Chhdrori . 

Jakhw44&  . 
Viramgion      arr, 
Viramgioii  .  dep, 
Lakhpa  Road 
Lilap^r  Rood  . 
Lakntar 
Wadhwdn 


Time. 


6.80 

6.44 

7.14 

7.50 

8.23 

9.  0 

9.80 

9.45 

10.27 

11.  3 

11.88 

12.30 


The  charge  for  Ist  class  passengers, 
it  should  ba  remembered,  is  15  pies  9, 


nule.    At  intermediate  stations  tickets 
wUl  be  furnished  only  on  condition 
that  there  be  room  in  the  train ;  in 
case  of  there  not  being  room  for  all 
the  passengers,  those  who  have  tickets 
for  the  longest  distance  should  have 
the  preference.    At  Viramgaon  there 
is  a  branch  rail  of  22  |m.  to  Kh&r4 
Ghora.      The  pop.   of    ViramgAoii  is 
19,66]  ;  it  is  surrounded  by  a  tower- 
flanked  brick  and  stone  wall  2^  m.  in 
periphery.    There  are  5  gates,  the  Gol- 
vadi  on  the  N.,  leading  to  Patau ;  the 
Bhavadi,  leading  to  the  Railway  Sta- 
tion ;  the  Rdipdri  on  the  E.,  leading  to 
A^maddbM ;  the  Gang&sar  on  the  S.W., 
and  the  Mdnsar  on  the  W.    "  At  the 
close  of  the  11th  century  Minal  Devi, 
the  mother  of  Sidh  Rdj  Jai   Singh, 
adorned  Yiramg4on  by  building  the 
M^nsar  lake,  and,  during  his  reign 
(1094-1143)  Sidh  R4j  added  several 
shrines  and  temples."    There  is  a  rest- 
house  outside  the  Mdnsar  Gate.    The 
M^nsar  lake  is  220  yds.  round,  shaped 
like  a  conch,  and  surrounded  by  flights 
of  stone  steps.    Round  the  top  of  the 
steps  runs  a  row  of  small  temples  with 
spires.    The  water   passes   from  the 
W.  into  a  stone   octagonal  hind  or 
well,  with  a  figure  cut  in  bold  relief  in 
a  niche  on  either  side  ;  from  the  well 
the  water  passes  into  the  lake  through 
a  channel  lined  with  stone,  and  atunnel 
over  which  is  a  large  pavilion  with  a 
pyramidal  roof  sacr^  to  M&nsar  M4t^ 
The  stations  are  on  the  1.  hand  all  the 
way  till  Wadhwin,  but  there  the  sta- 
tion is  on  the  r.    There  is  no  station 
at  Sdbarmati  at  present.    The  bridge  to 
it  is  crossed  in  two  minutes.    The  line 
passes  due  W.  as  far  as  Yiramgdon,  and 
then   S.W.  through  a  well-cultivated 
country  with  plenty  of  cotton.    Black 
buck  and  deer  are  occasionally  seen, 
monkeys   are  most   numerous.     The 
Assist.  Pol.  Agent's  house  is  2  m.  from 
the  Wadhwdn  Station,  and  is  a  fine 
new  building.    The  T.  B.  is  about  1  m. 
nearer  the  station  than  the  A.  P.  A.'8 
hohse.    The  cemetery  is  close  to  the 
T.  B.    There  is  only  one  epitaph  in  it, 
that  of  Mr.  A.  F.  Morley,  who  died 
13th  April,  1872.    The  town  of  Wadh- 
wAn  lies  to  the  S.  of  the  T.  B.,  and 

before  Teaching  it  the  BUog-4>Ya  Hiv^r 


Seot  II. 


Route  28. — Wadhtodn, 


347 


Ib  crossed  by  a  good  but  too  narrow 
bridge  with  27  arches.    The  road  enters 
the  Sol^pol  Gate,  turn  then  to  the  r., 
and  drive  ^  m.  to  the  temples,  where, 
after  the  bodies  of  the  chief sjare  burned, 
the  ashes  are  kept.    In  lUce  manner 
the  ashes  of  the  ladies  who  perform 
sati  here  are  preserved.    In  the  1st 
conrt  there  are  23  p41ias,  which  are 
flat  stones  with  images  in  relief  of 
warriors  with  swords  and  shields,  on 
horseback  or  on  elephants.    There  is 
often   also  a   lozenge-shaped   vessel, 
which  is  intended  for  the  hn-sumJfa 
cup,  from  which  Bdjpiits  drink   an 
infusion    of    hemp,    or    of    opium. 
Other  stones  have  on  them  in  relief  a 
woman's  arm  and  hand ;  these  are  me- 
morials  of  ladies  who  have  performed 
Jiati,  One  of  the  stones  is  dated  Samvat, 
1829,  which  would  correspond  to  1750. 
In  the  next  court  are  49  p^lids,  one 
of  them  166  yrs.  old.    There  are  2  en- 
closures protected  by  iron  wire,  where 
are  the  ashes  of  2  princesses  who  com- 
mitted sati.    Inscriptions  on  tall  stones 
tell  when  they  died.    The  lady  Rah- 
torm4  was  burned  in  1689,  and  Harimd 
in  1797.    There  are  also  some  small 
temples   here   on   a   high    platform. 
Towards  the  centre  of  the  N.  wall  of 
the   town,    which    is   of   stone,    and 
strongly  built,  and  from  20  to  26  ft 
high,  is  the  ancient  temple  of  R4nik 
Devi.    She  was  a  beautiful  girl,  bom 
in  the  Jiindgadh  territory  when  Sidh 
lUljd  was  reigning  at  Pdtan,  and  was 
betrothed  to  him.    But  Rd  Eheng4r, 
who  then  ruled  Jiindgadh,  carried  her 
off  and  married  her,  which  caused  a 
deadly  feud  between  him  and  Sidh 
B4ja,  whose  troops  marched  to  Jtind- 
ga4h.    Khengdr  was  betrayed  by  2  of 
his  kinsmen,  and  was  slain  by  Sidh 
Rdj4  and  his  fortress  taken.    The  con- 
queror wanted  to  marry  B&nik  Devi, 
but  she  performed  sati,  and  8idh  Bdj& 
raised  this  temple  to  her  memory.   The 
whole  story  is  told  by  Mr.  Forbes  in 
his  B^  M4U.    The  temple  bears  the 
marks  of  extreme  old  age,  the  stone 
being  much  worn  and  corroded,  and 
all  but  the  tower  is  gone.    The  door 
has  been  richly  carved,  but  the  figures 
are  defaced  and  broken.    Inside  is  a 
Btoae  with  the  effigy  in  relief  of  B^nik 


Devi,  and  a  smaller  one  with  a  repre- 
sentation of  Ambaji.    N.  of  this  temple 
and  close  to  the  city  wall  is  a  sati  stone 
dated  1519.    The  traveller  will  now 
drive  to  the  Sa&dipoj  gate  in  the  W. 
face  of  the  city.    Pass  out  and  re-enter 
by  the  L4khupo|  gate,  close  to  which 
is  a  wdv  or  w^  with  steps,  ascribed  to 
one  M4dhava,  who  lived  in  Samvat, 
1350,  which  is  172  ft.  long  from  E.  to 
W.  and  20ft.  3  broad  from  N.  to  8. 
The  water  is  34  ft.  below  the  ground, 
and  is  reached  by  59  steps.    There  are 
6  porticoes,  and  in  the  3rd  are  2  inscrip- 
tions under  the  figures  of  a  man  and 
woman  which  represent  M4dhava  and 
his  wife,  and  give  the  date  Samvat, 
1350.    The  palace,  here  called  Darb^r, 
may  next  be  visited.    It  is  near  the 
centre  of  the  town,  has  4  stories  and 
is  72  ft.  high.    It  stands  in  a  court 
facing  the  entrance,  on  the  r.  of  which 
is    a   baUding   called   the   M4ndwa, 
where  assemblies   at  marriages  take 
place.    The  palace  has  a  tower  at  each 
comer,  and  a  very  beautiful   lower 
story  with  9  arches  lift,  high,  sup- 
ported by  pillars  7  ft.  10  high.    The 
arches  are  scalloped,  and  the  entabla- 
tures   are  decorated  with  figures  of 
dancing  women.    It  is  of  stone  and 
painted  white,  though  the  natural  grey 
of  the  stone  which  may  be  seen  in  the 
gateway   looks   far   better.     In   the 
M4ndwa  are  4  immense  grain  pits, 
each  holding  7000  mans.    The  revenue 
is  taken  in  Idnd,  and  the  grain  is  stored 
here  and  then  sold.    The  central  hall 
of  the  Palace  is  55  ft.  long  and  28  broad, 
but  only  13  high,  whereas  that  in  the 
M&ndwa  is  59  ft.  long,  29  broad,  and 
20  ft.  high.    The  Bdj4  has  married  2 
wives,  but  has  no  children.    The  tra- 
veller should  pass  out  by  the  Shy&ni 
or  W.  gate,  so  called  from  the  viUage 
of  Shy4n,  and  will  see  outside  this  gate 
to  the  r.  the  oldest  well  in  this  locality. 
It  is  called  the  Gang&wa,  and  dates 
from  Samvat  1225=a.d.  1168,  but  ex- 
cepting its  antiquity  it  has  nothing 
very  remarkable  to  notice.    Wadhwto 
is  a  2nd  class  State  in  Jh41aw4r,  so 
called  from  the  Jh41a  B&jpiits.    The 
capital  Wadhwdn  has  a  pop.  of  18,000 ; 
the  area  of  the  whole  State  is  300  sq.  m. 
.  and  the  total  pop.  50,000.    The  reliable 


346 


Route  29. — Wadhwdn  to  Rdjkot. 


Sect.  II. 


history  begins  in  A.D.  1604,  when  Prl- 
thir&j,  eldest  son  of  B4j  Chandra 
8ing,  of  Halwad  in  Jh&law&r,  quar- 
relled with  his  father  and  left  him  and 
established  the  separate  chiefdom  of 
Wadhwdn.  He  left  2  sons,  one  of 
whom  founded  Wankanlr.  The  other  re- 
mained  at  Wadhw&n,  and  his  son  Bhdo 
Sing  settled  at  Savargad  in  B4jpi!itdnd. 
His  son  M4dha  Sing  served  the  Kdj4s  of 
Kotah  and  Bundl,  and  made  conquests 
for  them.  Bj  influence  thus  acquired 
Bhio  Sing's  descendants  became  Bdj^ 
of  Jh^rapatan  in  B4j  ptit&nd.  In  1 707 
A.D.,  M4dhu  Sing's  2  sons  returned  to 
WadhwAn,  one  of  them,  Arjun  Sing, 
stopped  at  Wadhwdn,  and  Abhj  Sing, 
the  other,  became  R&jd  of  Churd. 
Arjun  Sing's  son,  Sabal  Sing,  took 
Rdnpiir,  belonging  to  the  G^kwdd. 
Ddmdji  G&ekw&d  then  came  with  a 
large  force  against  Sabal  Sing,  and 
having  taken  him  prisoner  at  Ndgnesh, 
and  just  then  hearing  of  the  birth  of  a 
son,  called  the  child  Fate  Sing,  in 
honour  of  the  victory.  Arjun  Sing 
died  in  1739,  and  Sabal  Sing  having 
got  his  release  succeeded  him.  Sabal 
Sing  died  in  1765,  and  was  succeeded 
by  his  eldest  son  Chandra  Sing,  who 
died  in  1772,  and  was  succeeded  by 
his  only  son  Prithirdj.  The  forces 
of  the  GdekwM  and  of  the  Rdjds  of 
Dhrdngdrd,  Limrl,  Churd,  and  Tdeld, 
then  invaded  Wadhwdn,  but  after  a 
hard  struggle  were  repulsed  by  Pri- 
thirdj.  Prithirdj  died  1806,  and  was 
succeeded  by  his  only  son  Jdlam  Sing, 
then  only  1 5  months  old ;  a  long  regency 
followed  under  his  mother  Bdlrdj. 
Jdlam  Sing  died  in  1827,  leaving  an 
only  son  Rdj  Sing,  then  13  months 
old,  Bdirdj  became  regent,  and  re- 
mained so  till  her  death  in  1851.  She 
was  not  on  good  terms  with  her  grand- 
son Rdj  Sing,  who  died  in  1875,  his 
eldest  son  Chandra  having  died  before 
him  in  1862.  His  son  Ddjirdj,  grand- 
son of  Rdj  Sing,  succeeded,  and  is 
now  the  Rdjd.  He  is  entitled  to  a 
salute  of  9  guns,  has  studied  in  the 
Rdjkumdr  College  in  Rdjkot,  and  has 
travelled  in  India.  His  title  is  Thdkor 
Sdhib. 


ROUTE   29. 

wadhwAn  to  bajkot. 

The  traveller  being  now  launched  in 
Kdthiawdd,  where  European  travellers 
are  rare,  must  hire  or  buy  horses  and 
a  tonga  or  a  bullock-cart  for  his  whole 
journey.  If  he  goes  by  bullock-cart 
the  charge  will  be  3  dnds  a  kos  of 
2  m.,  but  his  progress  will  be  very 
slow,  not  more  than  12  or  15  m.  a  day. 
He  must  keep  his  baggage  and  servant 
with  him,  for  even  on  the  most  fre- 
quented i-outes  the  things  required  by 
a  European  are  seldom  to  be  got. 
Wine,  beer,  mosquito  curtains,  and  a 
bath,  must  be  taken  with  him.  The 
princes  of  Kdthiawdd  do  indeed  lend, 
their  carriages  to  travellers  who  are 
particularly  recommended  to  them, 
but  it  cannot  be  expected  that  they 
should  do  so  except  on  rare  occasions. 
The  stages  to  Rdjkot  are  as  fol- 
lows : — 


Wadhwdn 
Mala 
Doria  .  . 
Chotila  . 
Bamanbar 
Kwarloa  . 


I    K 

Mula        .  I  8 
Doria  . 
Chotila 
B&manbar    0 
Kwarloa  . 
Rajkof    . 


M.  ; 
or  16  I  The  kos  are- 


Total 


5  , 
7    J 

6  . 

.  10 
,14 

,  12 
,  10 
,  10 

short,     8t) 
that      the 
distance 
to  Chotila 
is  not  more 
than    .  3t> 
miles. 

72 

There  is  a  T.  B.  at  Mula,  and  a  Thdkor, 
or  chief,  resides  there.  The  countiy 
gradually  becomes  wilder,  till  at  the 
hills  of  Chotila  it  is  a  barren  heath. 
Panthers  are  to  be  found  in  the  hills, 
and  deer  and  other  game,  but  there 
are  no  tigers  in  Kdthiawdd,  and  the 
lions,  once  very  numerous,  are  now 


Sect.  II. 


Eouie  29. — Rdjkot. 


349 


restricted  to  the  Qir  Forest  near  Jiind- 
gadlh.  The  T.  B.  at  Chotlla  is  on  the  1. 
of  the  road,  and  there  is  a  messman. 
It  would  be  well  to  be  careful  of  scor- 
pions and  snakes,  which  are  not  un- 
frequent  visitors  to  the  sleeping-rooms. 
At  Bamanbar  there  is  a  T.  B.  on  the  r. 
on  a  high  hill,  a  veiy  inconvenient 
place  to  reach.  On  the  r.  before  reach- 
ing the  village  there  is  a  group  of  25 
pdJia  stones.  About  1  m.  beyond  Ba- 
manbar cross  the  Beti  River  by  a  fine 
bridge  with  8  arches,  and  2  m.  further 
on  cross  it  again  by  a  long  bridge. 
The  Pol.  Agent  of  E&thiaw&d  has  his 
head-quarters  at  lUjkot,  in  a  house 
which  is  termed  the  Kothi.  This  resi- 
dence and  the  garden  adjoining  it  are 
on  the  N.E.  side  of  the  cantonment ; 
The  T.  B.  is  on  the  S.  side,  about  1300 
yds.  S.  of  the  Pol.  Agent's  house  and 
200  yds.  to  the  E.  of  the  racecourse. 
The  Native  Inf.  Unes  are  at  the  N.W. 
comer  of  the  cantonment ;  the  canton- 
ment church  is  about  500  yds.  S.  of 
the  Kothl.  The  cemetery  is  900  yds. 
E.  of  the  T.  B.  The  cantonment  is  now 
almost  entirely  deserted  by  troops.  Its 
whole  extent  is  1800  yds.  from  E.  to 
W.,  and  about  the  same  where  widest 
from  N.  to  S.  The  church  is  called 
Christ  Church,  it  was  built  in  1843,  is 
44  ft.  3  from  E.  to  W.  and  21  ft.  7  from 
N.  to  S.  It  can  seat  70  people.  There 
are  several  tablets,  one  to  the  memory 
of  Capt.  H.  T.  Hibbert,  and  Capt.  C.  B. 
La  Touche,  3rd  and  4th  A.  P.  A.  in 
Kdthiawdd,  who  both  fell  in  action 
with  WAghars  at  the  Tobai-  Hill  near 
Machuda  on  29th  Dec.  1 867.  Another 
tablet  is  to  G.  G.  B.  Coulson,  C.S.,  who 
was  1st  Asst.  to  the  Pol.  Agent.  In 
the  cemetery,  which  is  small  and  not 
well  kept,  is  interred  Ensign  J.  M. 
Dickinson,  A. P. A.,  who  died  on  10th 
July,  1836,  of  cholera,  and  was  an 
excellent  liuguist.  There  is  an- 
other to  Lieut.  A.  Mole,  whose  tablet 
is  fast  becoming  illegible,  but  from 
which  it  appears  that  he  was  killed 
at  the  assault  of  some  ))lace.  From 
the  number  of  the  epitaphs  it  will  be 
seen  that  the  climate  of  Bdjkot  is  not 
a  healthy  one.  Before  entering  Rajkot 
the  Aji  RiVer  must  be  crossed,  which 
is  done  by  the  Kai§ai-  i  Hind  Bridge, 


which  has  14  arches.    There  is  the 
followping  inscription : — 

The  Kaiqar  i  Hind  Bridge. 

Built  at  the  expense  of 
His  Highness  Rayal  ShrI  Takht  SiNGjf, 

lliakor  9&hib  of  Bhaunagar, 

To  commemorate  tiie  Proclamation  at  Dilli 

On  the   Ist  January,   1877, 

By  Her  Imperial  Ma|esty 
Victoria,  Empress  of  India. 

Designed  and  constructed  by  S.  R.  Booth, 

Esq.,  C.E.  Agency  Engineer, 

and  was  opened  by 

Col.  L.  C.  Barton,  Political  Agent,  on  the  19th 

August,  1879. 

This  bridge  was  commenced  at  the 
close  of  1877,  completed  in  July,  1879, 
and  opened  on  the  19th  August  of  that 
year,  when  an  assembly  was  held  at 
the  Rdjkumdr  College  to  celebrate  the 
event.  Hie  total  cost  of  the  bridge 
was  Bs.  117,500,  of  which  the  B4j&  of 
Bhaunagar  paid  all  but  Bs.  7500.  The 
length  of  die  bridge  is  760  ft. ;  the 
arches  have  spans  of  45  ft. ;  the  width 
of  the  bridge  is  23  ft.  3  in. ;  the  height 
above  low  water  36  ft.  The  Bdjd  of 
Bhaunagar,  the  munificent  donor  of 
this  bridge,  was  educated  at  the  Hdj- 
kumdr  College,  on  which  he  bestowed 
Bs.  100,000  to  build  a  wing  and  a  re- 
sidence for  the  principal,  and  further 
contributed  Rs.  50,000  to  the  Endow- 
ment Fund.  The  College  lies  about 
300  yds.  to  the  S.E.  of  the  Cemetery, 
and  specially  deserves  a  visit,  as  being 
where  the  youug  princes  of  K&thia- 
wM  and  other  countries  arc  being 
educated,  and  being  presided  over  by 
Mr.  Chester  Macnaghten,  who  has 
done  so  much  for  education  in  India. 
His  paper  in  the  "  Calcutta  Review," 
April,  1879,  may  be  consulted.  H.  H. 
the  Th&^or  of  Rajkot  is  tall  and  power- 
fully built,  25  years  of  age,  and  pos- 
sessed of  administrative  ability.  He 
is  a  Jhareja  Bajpi^t,  descended  from 
Jam  Vlbhdljl,  younger  brother  of  JAm 
Ldkhajl  of  Nowanagar.  When  Ylbhdji 
left  Nowanagar  he  got  Kal&wad  Par- 
ganah,  with  12  villages ;  and  in  A.D. 
1609  he  got  from  his  maternal  uncle, 
the  Waghela  cUef  of  Sardhar,  the  vil- 
lage of  Chibra.  On  this  VibhAji  went 
to  Dilli,  and  obtained  from  the  Em- 
peror a  grant  of  700  villages  for  the 


350 


Boute  29. — WcudhM&n  to  Rdjkot. 


Sect.  II. 


Sardhdr  State  ;  subsequently  VibhAji 
invited   all   the  Wdghel4   chiefs   to 
dinner  at  Chibrd,  and  when  they  were 
intoxicated  slaughtered  them  all,  and 
80  got  the  throne  of  Sardh4r.    After 
this  conquest  Yibh&ji  defeated  a  Sindhi 
chief  who  was  ruling  Rdjkot,  and  took 
the  town  and  built  a  temple  to  B41- 
kri^hn  there.    Yibhajl  was  succeeded 
by  his  son,  Mehr&manji,  who  gave  the 
Parganas  of  BhddlA,  Jasddn,  Anand- 
pdr,  Mewdsi,  Bairld,  and  others,  to  the 
Kdthi  chiefs.    The  two  sons  of  Meh- 
rdmanji,  Saibji  and  Khumbhaji,  strug- 
gled for  the  throne ;  but  Khumbhaji 
was  at  last  obliged  to  leave  B4jkot, 
and  got  84  villages  to  the  W.    Saibji, 
having  been  assisted  by  Nowanagar, 
restoiid  to  that  State  the  E&ldw^ 
district.  Hehrdmanji  died  in  1665,  and 
about  that  time  Kumbhajl  got  Gond^. 
Saibji  was  succeeded  by  his  son  Ba- 
maniyaji,  who  was  attacked  by  the 
Mughul  forces  in  1683  ;  but,  being  as- 
sisted by  PorbandaT)  killed  the  Muj^ul 
general  Bdkir,  at  a  place  near  Bdjkbt, 
now   called   Bdkir  Ghuna,  in  1687. 
Bamaniyajf  was  succeeded  by  his  son 
Hehrdmanji,  and  he  by  Bhabh4ji  I., 
who  had  six  younger  brothers,  each 
of  whom  had  six  villages  assigned  to 
him ;  and  their  descendants  are  the 
T'alukd^  of  Gavaridar,  Shdpiir,  P41, 
Kothdriyd,  and  Lodhika.    The  third 
descendant  of    Bh4bdji   was  Mehri- 
manji  III.,  who  wrote  a  well-known 
book,  the  "Pravin  SAgar,'*  in  the  Braj 
language.    He  died  in  1794,  and  his 
son  Bhdbhdjf ,  who  succeeded  him,  died 
in  1825,  and  was  succeeded  by  his  son 
Suraji,  whose  sister  married  the  late 
B4j  Sdbib  of  Dbrdngdrd,  Rdnd  Mai 
Sing,  who  was  a  K. C.S.I.    Suraji  died 
in  1843,  and  was  succeeded  by  Meh- 
rAmaiiji  IV.,  who  died  on  the  27th  of 
October,  1862,  and  was  succeeded  by 
his  son  B4wdjl,  the  present  chief  of 
Edjkot,  who  wa8>edncated  at  the  B&j- 
kumdr  College,  and  speaks  Englii^ 
perfectly.    The  palace  at  E&jkotwas 
built  by  the  father  of   the  present 
7h&kor;   there   are   some  handsome 
rooms,  and  a  good  view  from  the  top 
over  the  town. 

The  School  of  Art  at  Bijkot  is  in  a 
tmall  building  near  the  Pol.  Agent's 


house.  It  is  too  small,  and  very  inse- 
curely built.  There  is  a  good  collec- 
tion of  the  marbles  and  stones  of 
Kdthiaw^. 

The  area  of  K&thiawM  is  30,000  sq. 
m.,  the  rize  of  Scotland.    The  pop.  Ib 
2,300,000,  or  200,000  short  of  that  of 
Switzerland,  though  the  area  is  twice 
as  large.  There  are  186  States,  of  which 
4,  Bluiunagar,  Nowanagar,  Ji&ndgadb, 
are  1st  cl. ;  9, 2nd  cL ;  7, 3rd  cL ,  and  the 
rest  4th  cl.    The  foundation  stone  of 
the  B&jkumdr  College  was  laid  on  the 
28th  of  April,  1868,  the  College  was 
opened  on  the  6th  of  December,  1870, 
by  Sir  S.  Fitzgerald.     The  centre  of 
the  Coll^^e  is  280  ft.  long,  and    2 
stories  high.     In  the  ground  floor  is  a 
hall  with  an  area  of  1815  sq.  ft.,  which 
gives  access  to  4  class  rooms,  measuring 
each  30  ft.  X  20ft,  with  at  either  side 
3  smaller  rooms  of  17  ft.    x   15  ft. 
Along  both  fronts  is  a  massive  arcaded 
verandah,  10ft.  wide.     Over  the  B. 
entrance  is  a  rectangular  tower  55  ft. 
high,  of  which  the  lower  part  is  a 
porch,  and  the  upper  consists  of  rooms. 
The  tower  has  three  stories,  and  at 
the  top  is  a  flagstaff,  30  ft.  high.     At 
the  W.  entrance  is  a  portico  flanked 
by  two  circular  towers,  which  contain 
staircases.    The  N.  and  S.  wings  are 
260  ft.  in  length,  and  contain  32  suites 
of  bedrooms  and  sitting-rooms,  bath- 
rooms, and  lavatories,  with  separate 
stairs.    To  the  W.  of  the  N.  wing  is  a 
chemical  laboratory,  and  on  the  oppo- 
site side  a  gymnasium  and  racquet 
court.    N.  of  the  laboratory  are  stables 
for  69  horses.    At  40  ft.  to  the  rear  of 
the  K.  and  S.  wings  are  2  ranges  of 
offices,  each  280  ft.  in  length.    In  the 
centre  of  the  quadrangle  is  a  basin  of 
water  40  ft.  in  diameter.    W.  of  the 
quadrangle   are   the   houses   of   t^e 
Principal  and  Vice  Principal,  with  ex- 
tensive gardens.  S.  of  the  buildings  is 
the  cricket  field  of  19  acres.     The 
stone  6f  which  the  College  is  built 
is  a  fine  buff  oolitic  limestone.    The 
High  School,  which  was  opened  in 
January,  1875,  by  Sir  F.  Wodehouse, 
cost  Bs.  70,000,  which  was  given  by 
the  Kiiwdb   ot  Jun^adh.     In  the 
centre  is  a  hall  measuring  66  ft  x 
36  ft,  and  35  ft.  high.    Thtire  are  1^ 


Sect.  IT.         HoHte  SO.^^SdJkot  to  JUndgadh  atid  Gimdr, 


361 


classrooms,  C  on  either  flloois measuring 
20  ft.  X  26  ft  In  the  lower  story, 
they  are  20  ft.  high,  and  17  ft  in  the 
upper,  with  yerancU^s  10  ft.  wide. 
The  College  was  founded  by  Col. 
Eeatinge.  The  Tank  of  Sand&sur, 
20  m.  N.E.  of  Rdjkot,  is  5  m.  round. 
The  dam  is  300  ft.  long,  by  40  ft, 
high. 


HOUTE  30. 

^ijKOT  TO  JUNAGADH  AND 

gibkAb. 


The  stages  are  as  follows : — 

From 

To 

1 

K.M. 

6  12 
6  12 
6  10 
5  10 
5  10 
5  10 

64 

Bemaaks. 

R^ko^    . 
Reboa     . 
Gondal    . 
Biipiir    . 
Jaitpiir   . 
Chauki    . 

Reboa 
Gondal     . 
Birpiir      . 
Jaitpur    . 
Chauki 
Jdn&ga4h. 

Total    . 

At  Reboa  is   a 
Dharms41&  with 
3  stories  used  as 
a  T.  B.    Gondal 
territory  begins 
here.     At  Gon- 
dal  there  is  a 
T.  B. 

The  road  from  Bdjkot  is  through  a 
flat,  dusty  country,  covered  in  the  dry 
weather  with  brown  grass.  On  the  1. 
are  low  hills,  and  on  the  r.  the  moun- 
tain of  Gimdr  rises  ^ike  a  great  cloud 
on  the  horizon.  The  A.  P.  A.*s  house 
at  Gondal  is  handsome  and  convenient, 
and  the  garden  is  remarkably  good. 
The  village  of  Birpiir  is  on  the  r. ; 
there  is  no  T.  B.,  but  a  Bangld  belong- 
ing to  the  State,  which  might  be  used. 
At  Jaitpiir,  which  is  a  town  of  15,000 
inhabitants,  the  head-quarters  of  the 
Kdthl  tribe,  there  is  a  good  bangl4  on 


the  r.  The  town  is  on  the  1.  of  the 
road ;  there  are  no  old  buildings,  but 
some  fine  new  houses  of  the  chiefs. 
The  BhMar  River  is  crossed  about  |  m. 
below  the  town  by  a  fine  bridge,  which 
was  opened  by  Mr.  Peel,  the  Pol. 
Agent,  on  the  17th  June,  1877.  It 
consists  of  12  main  arches  of  50  ft. 
span,  and  8  subordinate  arches  of  20 
ft.  span ;  besides  which,  in  the  ap- 
proaches, there  is  1  bridge  of  4  arches 
and  1  of  3  arches,  each  of  20  ft.  span, 
over  back  waters.  The  piers  of  the 
bridge  are  35  ft.  from  the  river  bed  to 
the  spring  of  the  arches,  and  the  road- 
way is  54  ft.  above  the  river.  The 
cost  of  the  bridge  was  provided  by  the 
Jtin^adh,  Gondal,  and  Jaitpilir  States ; 
that  of  the  approaches  by  the  road 
fund  of  Kdthiawad.  This  bridge  is  a 
most  important  work,  as  it  connects- 
N.  and  8.  Kdthiawad,  hitherto  sepa* 
rated  by  a  river  liable  to  sudden  and 
violent  fioods,  which  sometimes  rise 
30  ft.  above  the  river  bed.  The  last 
part  of  the  road,  about  2  m.,  into  J^- 
n^adh,  is  very  rough.  You  enter  the 
town  by  the  S.  gate,  and  drive  through 
it  about  1  m.,  passing  out  at  the  £. 
gate,  at  J  m.  beyond  which  you  come 
to  a  tall  and  handsome  bangld  to  the 
1.  of  the  road.  This  is  where  the  Nii- 
wdb  of  Jiindgadh  receives  guests  of 
distinction.  There  is  a  prinl^d  notice 
at  the  door  to  this  effect:  —  "This- 
Bangld  is  not  a  Traveller's  Bangld,. 
but  H.  H.  the  Niiwdb*s  private  resi- 
dence. Any  person  found  trespassing: 
in  these  premises  will  be  prosecuted.** 
The  T.  B.  is  a  few  hundred  yards  be- 
yond this  to  the  r.  of  the  road,  and  is 
not  a  very  nice  residence,  having  no 
upper  story.  In  the  other  bangU  there 
is  a  very  good  upper  story,  with  two 
large  rooms  and  two  small  ones.  The 
first  thing  to  be  seen  is  the  shrine  of 
Jamil  Shih  or  Ddtir,  as  he  is  called. 
At  200  yds.  to  the  £.  of  the  bangU  in 
going  to  the  shrine,  2  stones,  about 
9  ft.  high,  are  passed ;  this  is  where 
the  scaffold  for  executions  is  put  up. 
Tou  neist  pass  the  Viriwal  Gate  and 
turn  to  the  r.  along  the  dry,  stony 
bed  of  the  Kalka,  which  is  quite  dry  in 
the  hot  weather.  After  about  200  yds. 
more  you  come  to  a  low  arch  on  the  1., 


352 


BotUe  30. — Rdjkot  to  JUndgadh  and  Oimdr,        Sect.  II. 


under  which  you  pass,  and  find  your- 
self facing  the  house  of  the  Muj4wir 
or  attendant  of  the  shrine.  To  the  r. 
is  a  stone  platform  surrounding  an 
unusually  fine  mango  tree,  and  be- 
yond that  is  the  shnne  of  DAtdr,  a 
building  30  ft.  high,  with  a  fluted  cone 
at  top  and  a  staircase  of  stone  under 
4  pillars.  Here  it  is  necessary  to  take 
off  your  shoes.  There  is  a  tank  just 
beyond  the  mango  tree,  and  the  shrine 
and  the  whole  place  is  very  attractive. 
Opposite  to  the  shrine,  on  the  r.,  are  5 
steps,  which  lead  to  an  inclosure  in 
which  are  several  Muhammadan  tombs 
and  a  mosque  of  small  size.  In  the 
centre  is  a  very  Oriental-looking  build- 
ing, about  10  ft.  high,  with  12  pillars, 
3  at  each  comer,  supporting  the  roof 
of  a  corridor  4  ft.  oroad.  Within  is 
a  building  nicely  carved  over  a  small 
marble  tomb,  inscribed — 

ri820. 

Sacred 

To  the  Memory 

of 

JOSEPH  DYKES, 

Infant  son  of 

Major  F.  P.  Ballantine. 

Here,  then,  is  the  unique  instance  of  a 
Christian  tomb  erected  between  the 
shrine  of  a  Muslim  saint  and  a  mosque. 
The  erection  of  this  building  caused 
much  discontent  at  first,  but  Major 
Ballantine  paid  through  Mr.  Warden, 
Secretary  to  Government,  Rs.  100  a 
year  for  35  years  to  the  shrine,  and 
thus  quieted  complaints.  Payment  has 
now  been  discontinued  for  25  years. 
The  mosque  and  shrine  are  said  to  be 
of  Ra  KhengAr's  time,  but  are  pro- 
bably much  more  modern.  There  are 
several  gardens  belonging  to  Govern- 
ment which  may  next  be  visited. 
There  is  the  Moti  Bagh,  J  m.  to  the  S. 
of  the  T.  B.  and  on  the  road  to  Bantli. 
It  belonged  to  the  late  Dlwan  Anandji, 
and  as  he  had  no  childi-en  was  left  by 
him  to  the  Nilwdb.  In  the  town  is 
the  Hammdm  of  the  Vazlr,  where  there 
is  a  nice  garden  and  a  fountain,  with 
supari  and  papaw  trees.  Another 
garden  is  about  J-  m.  beyond  the  Mo- 
ganri  Gate,  through  which  you  pass 
on  entering  Jtindgadh.  The  garden  is 
called  the  Sh&kir  Bi|^,  and  belongs 


to  the  NiiwAb.    Between  it  and  the 
Moganrf  Gate  is  a  stone  bridge  with 
3  arches,  over  the  Sundar  Rekhd  river. 
The  old  bridge  was  swept  away  in 
1878,  but  the  channel  has  no  water 
2  or  3  months  after  the  rains,  and  the 
entire  rainfall  is  only  35  inches.     The 
Shdkir  Bigh  is  well  laid  out.    There 
is  a  two-storied  villa  surrounded  by  a 
moat  of  masonry  8  ft.  broad,  full  of 
water.    Ascend  40  steps  to  the  upper 
story,  where  there  is  a  large  portrait 
of  H.  H.  Ma^abbat  Khdn,  the  present 
NiiwAb,  and  pictures  of  the   Prince 
and  Princess  of  Wales.    About  50  yds. 
to  the  N.  of  the  house  is  a  menagerie, 
in  which  are  4  lions  and  2  lionesses 
from  the  Gimdr  Forest.    There  are 
also  several  leopards,  a  lynx,  a  came- 
lopard,  and  other  beasts.     On  return- 
ing from  the  garden  a  visit  may  be 
paid  to  the  Jail,  which  is  in  the  centre 
of  the  W.  quarter  of  the  city.    There 
are  generally  about  220  prisoners,  of 
whom  8  per  cent,  are  women  ;  2  men  of 
each  caste  cook  for  their  caste ;  carpet 
making  and  other  trades  are  taught. 
By  good  conduct  prisoners  can  obtain 
remission  of  their  sentence.     The  hos- 
pital and  dispensary  are  just  opposite 
the  prison.     In  1879  no  fewer  than 
15,511   patients  received  out-door  or 
in-door  relief ;  there  are  beds  for  25 
patients.      Dr.  Amid^,  a  regularly- 
trained  doctor  of  Bombay,  has  charge 
of  the  hospital,  and  lives  in  the  upper 
rooms.  As  Jiin&gadh  is  a  very  feverish 
place,  travellers  may  require  his  ser- 
vices.   It  will  be  satisfactory  to  know 
that  he  is  a  man  of  first-rate  abilities. 
The  palaces  of  the  Niiwab  and  of  the 
heir  apparent  are  fine  buildings,  as  is 
the  residence  of  the  DiwAn.    There  is 
also  a  very  handsome  semicirculaj  row 
of  buildings  close  to  the  palaces.    The 
tombs  of  the  Niiwabs  must  especially 
be  visited  ;  they  are  not  far  from  the 
palaces.    They  are  square  stone  build- 
ings with  verandahs,  the  roofs  of  which 
are  supported  by  scalloped  arches.  The 
roofs  of   the  principal    portions  are 
adorned  with  minarets  and  cupolas. 
Of  their  kind  they  are  perhaps  the 
handsomest  in  India.      Entering  by 
the  N.  gate  you  have  in  front  the 
tomb  of  Bahddur  ^h4n  II.    It  stands 


Sect.  11. 


Eoute  30. — Jundgadh. 


363 


on  a  masonry  platform,  3ft.  8  in.  high| 
and,  inclnding  the  verandah,  is  82  ft. 
8  in.  sq.  The  verandah  is  6  ft.  5  in. 
broad.  On  each  of  the  4  sides  of  the 
verandah  there  are  5  scalloped  arches, 
11  ft.  9  in.  high  from  the  platform, 
and  3  ft.  9  in.  broad.  From  the  plat- 
form to  the  eaves  of  the  roof  is  14  ft. 
2  in.  The  roof  is  much  decorated,  and 
has  24  minarets  about  8  ft.  high,  and 
5  cupolas,  fluted  and  carved.  It  is  not 
quite  finished.  Looking  toward  Baha- 
dur II.*s  tomb,  you  have  on  your  1. 
next  to  it  the  tomb  of  Hdmid  KhAn 
IL,  elder  brother  of  the  present  NiiwAb. 
It  is  built  on  a  platform  4  ft  9  in.  high, 
and  is  34  ft.  10  in.  sq.  In  each  side  of 
the  verandah  there  are  5  scalloped 
arches  12  ft.  high  from  the  platform  ; 
m  the  centre  of  each  is  a  pendant. 
One  of  the  minarets  was  blown  down 
by  a  tempest  in  the  present  year. 
Looking  towards  this  tomb  you  see 
on  its  1.  the  tomb  of  Lddli  Bti,  mother 
of  the  present  Ntiwdb  and  sister  of 
Bah&u*d-din,  the  Vazlr.  A  girls*  school 
has  been  founded  in  her  honour.  The 
platform  is  4  ft.  8  in.  high,  and  the 
tomb  on  it  26)  ft.  sq.  The  verandah 
and  arches  resemble  those  of  Bah&dur 
Khdn's  tomb.  Fronting  it  is  a  small 
mosque.  To  the  S.E.  of  the  tomb  of 
Bahddur  Eh4n  II.  is  the  tomb  of 
Hdmid  Khdn  I.,  which  is  nearly  32  ft. 
sq.  The  platform  is  1  ft.  10  in.  high, 
and  the  wall  of  the  tomb  above  it  is 
1 4  ft.  10  in.  high.  Beyond  is  the  tomb 
of  Bahddur  Khdn  I.,  which  measures 
20  ft.  by  18 ;  the  platform  on  which 
it  is  built  is  4  ft.  10  in.  high,  and  the 
tomb  itself  14  ft.  2  in.  above  the  plat- 
form. Adjacent  is  the  tomb  of  Ma- 
^abbat  Eb4nl.,  which  has  no  platform, 
is  15  ft.  5  in.  high,  and  measures  18  ft. 
4  in,  into  18  ft.  6  in.  The  3  tombs 
just  mentioned  have  no  verandahs. 
There  are  14  other  tombs,  but  the 
above  are  the  principal.  There  are 
chronograms  for  most  of  these  tombs. 
That  of  Bahddur  Eh&n  III.  gives  the 
date  A.H.  1256  for  his  death,  and  1257 
for  the  building  of  the  tomb.  The 
date  of  Q&mid  Kh4n  IL's  death  is 
1267  A.H.,  and  that  of  his  tomb  1270. 
The  Mnj&wir  or  Gustos  of  the  tombs 
is  Shekh  Ndnd  Miydn,  whose  family 

[Bombay— ISSO. 


came  from  Ajmir  originally  to  Dilli, 
and  were  brought  by  the  Niiwdbs  of 
Ji!inigadh  to  their  fortress.  There  is 
one  more  garden,  called  the  Sird^ 
B^s^,  which  belongs  to  the  heir-ap- 
parent ;  it  is  I  m.  outside  the  Bantii 
Gkite.  In  it  is  a  very  handsome  villa 
on  the  brink  of  a  fine  tank  of  beautifal 
water.  There  are  a  menagerie  and 
aviary ;  among  the  beasts  are  2  lions 
and  2  lionesses ;  1  of  the  lions  is  a  fine 
animal,  but  only  4  years  old,  and  has 
not  come  to  his  full  size  and  strength, 
having  been  defeated  this  year  by  a 
male  buffalo.  The  next  visit  should 
be  to  the  tjpari  Kot,  which  is  on  the 
E.  side  of  the  city.  This  was  the 
citadel  of  the  old  city,  where  the  lieu- 
tenants of  the  great  Ashoka  (270  B.C.), 
and  later  of  the  Gupta  kings,  lived. 
The  Chuddsamd  kings  held  their  court 
in  the  Opari  Kot ;  but  we  do  not  know 
when  tiieir  dynasty  arose.  You  pass 
through  the  town  until  you  reach  an 
archway  with  a  small  Muslim  cemetery 
on  the  r.,  and  then  you  turn  to  the  r. 
and  pass  under  another  gateway,  then 
turn  to  the  1.  under  a  third  gateway, 
very  handsomely  carved  with  the  Bl- 
jdnagar  bracket,  lotus  flower,  and  rows 
of  lozenge-shaped  ornaments.  The 
fort  walls  here  are  from  60  to  70  ft. 
high,  and  the  three  gateways  form  a 
grandly  massive  cluster  of  buildings. 
You  then  proceed  150  yds.  to  the  1., 
through  a  grove  of  Htdphal  trees  (cus- 
tard apples),  which  bring  in  a  good 
revenue.  At  this  point  there  is  a  huge 
cannon  of  bell-metal,  17  ft.  long  and 
4  ft.  7  in.  round  at  the  mouth,  with  a 
bore  of  10  in.  diameter.  There  is  an 
Arabic  inscription  at  the  muzzle,  which 
may  be  translated  : — **  The  order  to 
make  this  cannon,  to  be  used  in  the 
service  of  the  Almighty,  was  given  by 
the  Sult&nof  Arabia  and  Persia,  Sult^ 
Bulaim^,  son  of  Salim  Kh4n,  may 
his  triumph  be  glorified,  to  punish  the 
enemies  of  the  State  and  of  the  Faith, 
in  the  capital  of  Egypt,  a.h.  937." 
At  the  breech  is  inscribed,  "  The  work 
of  Mul^ammad,  the  son  of  Hamzah." 
Near  the  laige  gun  is  a  small  one,  an 
ordinary  18-pounder.  E.  by  N.  of  this, 
100  yards,  is  the  J&m'i  Masjid,  which 
was  evidently  a  Hindii  temple,  though 

A  A 


354  Route  30. — Rdjhot  to  Jitndgadh  and  Gimdr.        Sect.  II. 


Mr.  Burgess  says  it  was  built  by  Ma^- 
mi^d  Begada.  It  is  134^  ft.  long  from 
N.  to  S.,  and  98  ft.  from  B.  to  W. 
There  was  a  plain,  slim  minaret  at 
each  comer  of  the  roof,  but  that  to  the 
S.  has  fallen;  there  are  10  rows  of 
pillars,  15  ft.  high,  with  entablatures 
measuring  1  ft.  6  in.,  so  that  the  total 
height  from  the  floor  to  the  ceiling  is 

164  ^<    ^^^  P^^  ^^  ^^  pillars  is 
slightly  carved  with  fillets  of  lotus 
leaves  and  a  lozenge-shaped  ornament. 
In  the  Ist  row  from  the  N.W.  there 
are  14  pillars  and  2  pilasters,  and  also 
in  the  2nd,  3rd,  and  4th  row ;  the  6th 
row  had  the  same  number  of  pillars, 
but  2  are  broken.   In  the  centre  of  the 
building,  after  the  5th  row,  there  have 
been  3  large  domes  ;  the  central  dome 
was  supported  by  4  black  pillars,  27  ft. 
9  in.  high,  each  consisting  of  3  blocks. 
On  these  were  beams  of  wood,  of  which 
fragments  remain ;  and  from  them,  or 
rather  from  a  second  story  of  pUlars, 
8  ft.  3  in.  high,  resting  on  them,  the 
dome  sprang,  with  a  sort  of  battle- 
ment round  its  base.   One  of  these  pil- 
lars has  fallen,  and  it  can  be  seen  that 
the  3  pieces  of  which  it  was  composed 
were  joined  to  the  base  with  rods  of 
iron.    The  other  domes  were  probably 
supported  in  the  same  way;  but  the 
pillars  are  fallen  and  the  domes  have 
disappeared.    The  spaces  covered  by 
them  are  octagonal.    In  the  6th  row 
1  pillar  is  standing  and  then  2  are 
broken ;  then  3  standing,  followed  by 
1  broken ;  then  4  are  standing,  then  1 
is  broken;  and  then  1  standing.    In 
the  other  rows  all  14  pillars  are  stand- 
ing.    There  were  therefore  144  pillars 
in  all,  of  which  8  are  broken.    The 
stone  is  very  hard,  and  was  brought 
from  a  village  called  Sheriaj,  36  m. 
distant.  There  are  3  alcoves  in  the  W. 
side  of  the  mosque,  of  marble,  hand- 
somely carved  in  relief  with  patterns 
of  bells  and  chains  and  censers  and 
the  lotus  flower.    The  shafts  of  the 
pillars  are  4^  ft.  round,  and  their  bases 
at  bottom  7  ft.     The  arches  are  14  ft. 
high.    The  pulpit  has  10  steps.    Thxi 
ascent  to  the  terraced  roof  is  by  a 
ruined  staircase,  difficult  to  ascend. 
About  50  yds.  N.  of  the  mosque  is  a 
Gupha,  or  underground  temple,  very 


ancient  and  quite  plain.    It  is  closed 
with  an  iron  gate,  which  is  kept  locked. 
The  shaft  by  which  you  descend  is 
18  ft.  10  in.  deep,  though  the  chambers 
below  are  only  7  ft.  3  in.  high.    There 
are  2  stories  of  rooms,  the  upper  story 
being  20  ft.  8  in.  from  E.  to  W.,  and 
17  ft.  7  in.  from  N.  to  S.    The  pUlars 
are  7  ft.  high,  and  4  ft.  5  in.  round. 
There  is  a  2nd  compartment,  37  ft. 
7  in.  long,  27  ft.  6  in.  broad,  and  7  ft. 
3  in.  high.    The  pillars  are  7  ft.  1  in. 
high,  and  5  ft.  3  in.  round.  The  lower 
story  is  11  ft.  3  in.  high.,  37  ft.  8  in. 
long,  and  30  ft.  9  in.  broad.    The  pil- 
lars are  8  ft.  8  in.  high,  and  6  ft.  3  in. 
round.    They  are  6  in  number;  and 
Mr.  Burgess,  who  has  given  a  photo- 
graph of  them,  says  of  them,  "  Few 
bases  could    be  found  anywhere  to 
excel  in  beauty  of  design  and  richness 
of  carving  those  of  these  six  pillars." 
There  is  a  deep  bath  about  11  ft.  sq., 
with  a  coV-ered  verandah  round  3  sides 
of  it.    The  water-pipes  come  down  the 
wall  from  the  surface,  and  enter  a 
small  cistern  near  the  S.W.  comer. 
Over  the  bath  the  room  is  open,  and 
round  the  opening  there  has  been  a 
wall,    of  which   part   remains.    For 
further  particulars  see  Mr.   Burgess's 
"Arch.  Report   for    1874-76."      The 
inner  gate  of  the  fort  is  a  genuine 
fragment  of  the  old  Rdjpiit  citadel. 
On  the  ramparts  above  is  an  inscrip- 
tion of  Mandalika  Y.,  dated  Samwat, 
1507 =A.D.  lisO.    To  avoid   the   23 
ruinous  steps  which  ascend  to  the  roof 
from  the  inside  of  the  mosque,  there 
is.  it  may  be  added,  a  flight  of  26  steps 
outside  the  front,  by  which  the  tra- 
veller may  descend  and  then  look  at 
the  tomb  of  Niirl  Shdh,  which  is  close 
to  the  mosque,  and  9  ft.  sq.  and  about 
20  ft.  high,  and  very  elegantly  carved, 
with  fluted  cupolas  and  a  most  peculiar 
carving  over  the  door.    There  are  two 
wells  in  the  tJparl  Kot,the  Adl  Chadl 
and  Naughan,  cut  to  a  great  depth  in 
the  soft  rock ;  the  former  is  descended 
by  a  long  flight  of  steps.    The  sides  of 
the  descent  show  the  most  remarkable 
overlappings  and  changes  of  lie  in  the 
strata,  for  which  alone  it  is  worth  a 
visit  to  anyone  with  geological  tastes. 
The  Buddhist  Caves  at  Jiinigadh  are 


Sect.  II. 


Route  30, — Jundgadh — Girndr, 


355 


referred  to  by  Hiouen  Thsang  in  the 
7tli  century,  who  says  there  were  3000 
recluses  of  the  Sthavira  sect  belong- 
ing to  the  greater  translation,  and  60 
convents.  The  Muslims  have  oblite- 
rated every  trace  of  the  convents ;  but 
in  the  E.  part  of  Jihidgadh,  between 
the  houses  and  the  walls,  and  near  the 
modern  monastery  of  Bdw4  PydrA,  are 
a  number  of  monastic  caves,  arranged 
in  3  lines,  of  which  Mr.  Burgess  in  his 
Eeport  of  1874,  at  p.  139,  has  given  a 
plmi  and  a  description.  In  front  was 
found  a  slab  with  a  Sdh  inscription, ! 
which  Dr.  Biihler  declares  to  be  Jain. 
He  thinks  the  caves  were  probably 
excavated  about  the  end  of  the  2nd 
century  of  the  Christian  era,  but  may 
be  much  older.  In  the  jungle  within 
the  N.  wall  of  Jiindgadh,  at  Mdi  Ga- 
dechi,  under  an  old  Jaina  temple  con- 
verted into  a  mosque,  is  a  cave  28  ft. 
6  in.  wide  by  13  ft.  deep,  and  to  the 
W.  of  it  is  an  ancient  rock-hewn  dwell- 
ing, known  as  Kdpar4  Kbodi,  still 
locally  known  as  Khengdr's  Palace ; 
it  is  260  ft.  long  and  80  ft.  broad.  It 
is  being  quarried  away.  There  is  a 
doubtful  inscription  in  Persian,  which 
gives  the  date  700  A.H.,  and  the  name 
Q^ji  Muhammad. 

The  great  sight  at  Jiindgadh  is  the 
sacred  mountain  of  Girndr,  which  is 
3G66  ft.  high,  and  is  one  of  the  most 
remarkable  places  in  India.  From 
the  city  of  Jiindgadh  only  the  top  of 
this  mountain  can  be  seen,  as  it  has  in 
front  of  it  a  line  of  mountains  of 
which  Jogniya,  or  Laso  Pawadi,  2627 
ft.  Lak^hman  Tekri,  Bensla,  2290  ft. 
high,  and  DdtAr,  2779  ft.  high,  are  the 
principal.  Girnar  was  anciently 
called  Kaivata  or  Ujjayanta,  sacred 
amongst  the  Jains  toNimndth,  the  22nd 
Tirthaukai",  and  doubtless  a  place  of 
pilgrimage  before  the  days  of  Ashoka, 
270  B.C.  The  Girndr  BrAhmans  reckon 
themselves  among  the  Pancha  Gandas, 
and  have  fabricated  a  book  called  the 
Gimdra  Mahdtmya,  in  which  it  is  said 
that  Girndr,  or  Vastrdpadha,  is  a  little 
holier  than  the  holiest  of  all  places  of 
Hindii  sanctity.  The  traveller,  in 
order  to  reach  Girndr,  will  pass 
through  the  Wdgeshwar  Gate  of  Jii- 
nagadh,  which  is  close  to  the  tJ pari 


Kot.    Before  passing  the  gate  he  will 
notice  the  fine  Dharmsdld  belonging 
to  the  goldsmiths.    At  about  200  yds. 
from  the  gate,  to  the  r.  of  the  road,  is 
the  temple  of  Wdgeshwar,  which  is 
joined  to  the   road  by  a    causeway 
about  160  yds.  long.    In  front  of  the 
temple  is  a  modern  building,  3  stories 
high,  very  ugly,  flat-roofed,  and  quite 
plain.     There  is  an  archway  in  this 
building    through  which  one  passes 
into  a  small  court,  with  a  pagoda  to 
the  E.,  the  dome .  of  which  is  about 
20  ft.  high  from  the  ground  to  the 
top.     There  are  8  scalloped  arches, 
with  a  pendant  in  the  centre  of  each, 
and  8  pillars,  10  ft.  2  high  ;  to  the  top 
of  each  arch  is  only  8  ft.  10.     In  the 
sanctum  is  a  hideous  figure  of  Wdgesh- 
war, a  form  of  Devi,  the  wife  of  Shiva. 
She  is  represented  Q£,  a  red  hag,  with 
stanng   black  eyes  and  large  white 
teeth  ;    she  bestrides  a  creature  that 
the  local  people  say  is  a  Sdwaj,  or 
lion,    but  which  looks   more   like  a 
Wdg,  or  tiger.    It  is  green,  with  red 
stripes,  and  is  a  most  wretched  daub, 
but  the  people  think  it  very  handsome. 
About  a  furlong  beyond  this  is  a  stone 
bridge,  and  just  beyond  it  the  famous 
Ashoka  Stone.    It  is  now  covered  over 
by  a  good  shed,  built  4  yrs.  ago,  the 
walls  of  which  are  of  stone  and  the 
roof  of  wood  and  tiles.    The  Stone  is 
20  ft.  in  the  curve  from  N.E.  to  S.W., 
and  29  ft.  2  from  N.  to  S.     On  the  E. 
side  the  letters  are  very  distinct.    It 
was  first  noticed  by  Major  James  Tod 
in   Dec,   1822   (see    "Travels  in   W. 
India,"  p.  369),  who  gives  an  account 
of  a  paved  causeway  made  to  it,  with 
a  bridge  of  3  arches  over  the  Sonai'ekha, 
made  by  Sundarjl,  the  horse  merchant. 
He  says  the  large  granite  block  or 
boulder  is  just  at  the  entrance  of  the 
causeway,  on  its  r.  or  E.  side,  and 
besides  14  edicts  which  cover  nearly 
the  whole  of  the  N.E.  face,  it  bears  on 
the  top    a    long  Sdh    inscription  of 
Eudra   Ddmd,   and  on   the  W.    face 
one  of  Skandagupta.   Ashoka's  inscrip- 
tion was  probably  almost  perfect  when 
Tod  saw  it.    Sundarjl's  people,  when 
making  the  causeway,  seem  to  have 
broken  a  large  piece  from  the  stone, 
carrying  away  part  of   the  6th    ami 

A  X  2 


366  Route  30. — Rdjkot  to  Jundgadh  and  Gimdr,       Sect.  II. 


a  large  portion  of  the  13th  edict.  The 
1st  transcript  of  the  Ashoka  inscrip- 
tion was  made  by  the  Rev.  Dr.  John 
Wilson,  who  sent  it  in  1837  to  James 
Prinsep.  Lieut.  Kitto  had  discovered 
a  long  inscription  at  Dhauli  in  Katak, 
which  proved  to  be  identical,  but 
omitting  the  last  ]three  edicts.  In 
March,  1838,  Lieut  Postans  and  Capt. 
Lang  copied  the  inscriptions,  which 
were  sent  to  the  R.  A.  S.  In  1842  Gen. 
Legrand  Jacob  and  Prof.  Westergaard 
of  Copenhagen  made  what  has  proved 
the  most  faithful  transcript  of  all.  In 
1838  IJurnes  discovered  an  inscription 
at  Shdh-baz-gadhi,  36  m.  N.E.  of 
PeshAwar,  which  was  deciphered  by 
Mr.  Norris  and  Mr.  Dowson  in  1845, 
and  turned  out  to  be  the  §ame  as 
those  of  Gimdr  and  Dhauli.  Inscrip- 
tions have  since  been  published  by 
H.  H.  Wilson,  Bournouf,  and  H.  Kern, 
of  Leyden  ;  the  character  is  Pdli.  In 
Mr.  Burgess's  Report  of  1874  will  be 
found  photographs  of  the  inscriptions, 
with  the  translations  by  Prof.  Kern 
and  the  text  of  the  3  inscriptions,  and 
an  exhaustive  account  of  them.  After 
leaving  Ashoka's  Stone  the  traveller 
will  cross  the  handsome  bridge  over 
the  Sundarekha,  which  here  forms  a 
fine  piece  of  water  ;  he  will  then  pass 
a  number  of  temples,  at  first  on  the  1. 
bank  and  then  on  tlie  r.  bank  of  the 
river.  Here  there  are  a  number  of 
ascetics,  who  go  about  entirely  naked. 
There  used  to  be  a  horrible  sect  called 
Aghoris,  who  lived  in  the  caves  of  the 
mountain,  and  fed,  it  is  said,  on 
corpses,  but  they  have  disappeared. 
The  largest  temple  is  to  Damodar,  a 
name  of  Kri?hna,  from  Ddm,  a  rope,  be- 
cause his  mother  in  vain  attempted  to 
confine  him  with  a  rope  when  a  child. 
The  path  is  now  through  a  wooded 
valley,  with  some  fine  Indian  fig-trees. 
Near  a  cluster  of  them  is  an  old  shrine 
called  BhavanAth,  a  name  of  Shiva. 
Here  there  are  a  number  of  large  mon- 
keys who  come  on  being  called,  and 
from  this  spot  there  is  often  a  continu- 
ous line  of  pilgrims  ascending  and  de- 
scending, many  of  them  females  gau- 
dily dressed.  Unless  the  traveller 
be  a  very  good  climber,  he  will  do 
well  to  get  into  a  deli  here,  for  which 


he  will  pay  4  or  5  Rs.  This  mode  of 
conveyance  is  not  very  comfortable, 
consisting  only  of  a  board  or  cushion 
suspended  from  2  stout  bambiis,  and 
carried  by  4  men.  There  is  a  small 
open  pai?ilion  here  with  4  pillars, 
whence  the  shape  of  the  mountain  can 
be  distinctly  seen.  A  long  ridge  runs 
up  from  the  W.,  and  culminates  in  a 
frightfully  scarped  rock,  on  the  top  of 
which  are  the  temples.  Close  to  the 
Mandir  is  a  well  called  the  ChAr- 
bAori  Wav.  The  paved  way  begins 
just  beyond  this  and  continues  for 
f  the  ascent,  and  so  far  there  is 
nothing  very  trying  to  anyone  with 
an  ordinarily  steady  brain.  But  after 
that  the  path  turns  to  the  r.  along  the 
edge  of  a  precipice,  and  consists  of 
steps  cut  in  the  rock,  and  so  narrow 
that  the  doli  grazes  the  scarp,  which 
rises  perpendicularly  200  ft.  above  the 
traveller.  On  the  r.  is  seen  the  lofty 
mountain  of  Ddtdr  covered  with  low 
jungle,  in  which  are  panthers  and  any 
number  of  serpents.  At  about  1500  ft. 
there  is  a  stone  dharmsAld,  and  from 
this  there  is  a  fine  view  of  the  rock 
called  Bhairava  Jap,  or  Adoration  of 
Bhairava  the  Terrific  One,  a  name  of 
Shiva.  It  was  so  called  because  devo- 
tees used  to  least  themselves  from  its 
top,  falling  1000  ft.  or  more ;  the  legend 
was  that  if  anyone  survived  he  would 
be  king  of  the  world.  The  paved 
ascent  may  be  divided  into  3  parts ; 
at  the  end  of  the  1st  the  1st  rest-house, 
Chodia-paraba,  is  reached,  480  ft. 
above  the  plain.  The  2nd  halting- 
place  is  Dholl-deri,  1000  ft.  above  the 
plain.  There  the  ascent  becomes 
more  difficult,  winding  under  the  face 
of  the  precipice  to  the  3rd  rest-house, 
1400  ft.  up.  The  stairs  of  sandstone 
then  commence,  and  taking  advantage 
of  every  ledge  on  the  almost  vertical 
scarp,  wind  up  its  face  ;  the  doli 
frequently  grating  against  the  rock 
on  one  side  of  the  narrow  path,  whilst 
its  occupant  looks  down  into  an  abyss 
on  the  other.  At  between  2000  and 
2100  ft.  up  there  is  an  inscription 
dated  either  1258  or  1158  A.D.  At 
2370  ft.  above  Ji!in&gadh  the  gate 
of  the  enclosure  at  the  top  is  reached. 
On    entering    the    gate,    the    large 


Sect.  ir. 


RoiUe  30. — Gimdr, 


357 


enclosure  of  the  temples  is  on  the  1., 
while  to  the  r.  is  the  temple  of  Man 
Sing  Bhoja  B&ja,  and  further  on  the 
much  larger  one  of  VastupAla,    The 
door   into  the  Devakota,   or  Sacred 
Fort,  is  part  of  an  old  building  which 
goes  by  the  name  of  Ra  Khengdr's 
Palace.    Built  into  the  wall  on  the  1. 
of  the  entrance  is  an  inscription  in 
Sky.,  the  facsimile  of  which  has  been 
given  by  Mr.  Burgess,  with  a  transla- 
tion by  Dr.  Buhler.    The  verses  begin 
with  the  praise  of  Ambika,  one  oi  the 
guardian  deities  of  Girndr,  who  has  a 
temple  there.      It  then  goes    on  to 
mention    the    Chuddsamd    Rdjds    of 
Ji^ndgadh,  whose  names  were  as  fol- 
lows : — Navaghana,  lit.  Strongsword, 
937   A.D. ;  Khengdr,   959  ;   Mularaja, 
968  ;  Navaghana  II.,  992  ;  Maiidalaka, 
1011  ;  Hamir  Deva,  1038  ;  Vijayapdla, 
1051  ;  Navaghana  III.,  1085  ;  Khengdr 
II.,  slain  by  Siddhdrdja  Jayasinha  of 
AnhdlwA(ia,1107;MandalikaII.,*1127; 
Alansinha,  1138  :  Ganesha,  1152  ;  Na- 
vaghana   rV.,    1157 ;    Khengdr   III., 
1167  ;  Mandalika  III.,  1213  ;    Nava- 
ghana v.,  1235  ;  Mahlpdladeva,  1245  ; 
Khengdr  IV.,   1279  ;   Jayasinhadeva, 
1333  ;  Mugatsinha,  1345  ;  Melagadeva, 
1359  ;  MahipAladeva  IL,  1376  ;  Man- 
dalika IV.,  1376  ;  Jayasinhadeva  IL, 
1393;    KhengAr    V.,    1412;    Manda- 
lika v.,   1432,  subdued  by  Mahmiid 
Begada  in  1469  A.D.     The  list  in  the 
inscription  ends  with  Mandalika  IV., 
son  of  Mahipdladeva  II.    The  Jaina 
temples  here  form  a  sort  of  fort  on  the 
ledge  at  the  top  of  the  great  cliff,  but 
still  600  ft.  belbw  the  summit ;  they 
are  about  16  in  all,  and  neither  larger 
nor  finer  than  many  at  Shatrunjay, 
while  the  priests  are  most  ignorant. 
The  largest  temple  is  that  of  Nemndth, 
standing  in  a  quadrangular  court  190 
ft.  by  130.    An  inscription  on  one  of 
the  pillars  of  the  Mandapa  states  it  was 
repaired  in  A.D.  1278.    It  consists  of  2 
halls  and  the  shrine,  which  contains 
a  large  black  image  of  Nemndth,  the 
22nd  Tirthankar,  with  massive  gold 
ornaments  and  jewels.    The  principal 
hall  in  front  of  this  measures  41  ft.  7 
by  44  ft.  7,  inside.    The  roof  is  sup- 
ported by  22  square  columns  of  granite 
coated  with  lime,  while  the  floor  is  of 


tesselated  marble.  Round  the  shrine 
is  a  passage  with  many  images  in 
white  marble.  Between  the  outer 
and  inner  halls  are  2  small  shrines. 
The  outer  hall  measures  33  ft.  by  21  ft. 
3,  and  has  2  raised  platforms  paved 
with  slabs  of  yellow  stone,  covered 
with  representations  of  feet  in  pairs, 
which  represent  the  2452  feet  of  the 
first  disciples.  On  the  W.  of  this 
is  a  porch  overhanging  the  perpen- 
dicular scarp.  On  2  of  the  pillars  of 
the  Mandap  are  inscriptions  dated 
1275,  128i,  and  1278.  The  enclosure 
is  nearly  surrounded  inside  by  70  cells, 
each  enshrining  a  marble  image  on  a 
bench,  with  a  closed  passage  in  front 
of  them  lighted  by  a  perforated  stone 
screen.  The  principal  entrance  was 
originally  on  the  E.  side  of  the  court, 
but  it  ia  now  closed,  and  the  entrance 
on  the  S.  side  from  the  court,  in 
KhengAr'  sPalace,  is  that  now  used.  On 
the  S.  side  there  is  a  passage  leading 
into  a  low  dark  temple,  with  granite 
'  pillars  in  lines.  Opposite  the  entrance 
is  a  recess  containing  2  large  black 
images  :  in  the  back  of  the  recess  is  a 
lion  rampant,  and  over  it  a  crocodile 
in  bas-relief.  The  same  figures  are 
found  on  Buddhist  images,  but  rarely, 
if  at  all,  on  a  Jain  image.  Behind 
these  figures  is  a  room  from  which  is 
a  descent  into  a  cave,  in  which  is  a 
large  white  marble  image,  an  object 
of  the  most  superstitious  veneration 
by  the  Jains,  and  to  conceal  which 
the  priests  will  tell  any  number  of  lies. 
It  has  a  slight  hollow  in  the  shoulder, 
said  to  be  caused  by  water  dropping 
from  the  ear,  whence  it  was  called 
Ainijliera, "  nectar  drop."  On  the  r.  of 
the  S.  entrance  of  the  temple  is  a  small 
shrine  of  Ambika,  and  parallel  with  it 
to  the  W.  is  an  amha  or  mango  tree, 
the  Bo  tree  of  that  goddess.  In  the 
N.  porch  are  inscriptions  which  state 
that  in  Ham  vat,  1215,  certain  Thdkora 
completed  the  shrine,  and  built  the 
Temple  of  Ambika.  After  leaving 
this  there  are  3  temples  to  the  1. ;  that 
on  the  S.  side  contains  a  colossal  image 
of  Rishabha  Deva,  the  Ist  Tirthankar, 
exactly  like  that  at  Shatrunjay  called 
Bhlm-PAdam.  On  the  throne  of  this 
image  is  a  slab  of  yellow  stone  carved 


358 


Moiite  30. — Rdjlot  to  Jnndgadh  and  Girndr.      Sect.  II. 


in  A.D.  1442,  with  figures  of  the  24 
Tirthankars.    Opposite  this  temple  is 
one  to  PanchaMi,  built  50  years  ago. 
W.  of  it  is  a  large  temple  called  Mal.'i- 
kavisi,   sacred    to  PArshwanath.      N. 
again  of   this   is  another  temple  of 
Pdrshwanath,  which  contains  a  large 
white  marble  im.nge  canopied  by  a 
cobra,  whence  it  is  called  Sheshpluini. 
It  bears  the  date  1 803  A.D.   This  temple 
and  the  other  of  the  same  Tirthankar 
faced  the  E.,  while  the  other  temples 
face  the  W.    The  next  and  last  temple 
to  the  N.  is  Kumdrapalds.    It  has  a 
long  open  portico  on  theW.  supported 
by  24  columns ;   it   appears  to  hare 
been  destroyed  by  the  Mu^iammadans, 
and  restored  in    1824    by  HansrdjA 
Jetha.    These  temples  are  along  the 
W.  face  of  the  hill,  and  are  all  enclosed. 
Outside  to  the  N.  is  the  Bhima  Kunda, 
a  tank  70  ft.  by  50,  in  which  Hindiis 
bathe.     Below  it,  on  the  verge  of  the 
cliff,  is  a  smaller  tank  of  good  water, 
and  near  it  a  canopy  supported  by  3 
pillars,  and  a  piece  of  rock  containing 
a   short   octagonal    stone   called  the 
Elephant's  Foot.     To  the  E.   of  the 
enclosed  group  of  temples  are  several 
others,  the  principal  being    that  of 
Man  Singh  Bhoja  RAjA  of  Kachh,  an 
old  granite  temple  near  the  entrance. 
Next  is  VastupAla's,  which  is  triple. 
Tho.  central  fane  measures  53  ft.  by 
29i,  and  has  2  domes,  finely  carved  but 
much  mutilated.    The  shrine  is  13  ft. 
sq.,  wilh  an  image  of  Malliudth,  the 
19th    Tirtahnkar,   with    inscriptions 
which  say,   "The  wife  of  the  great 
minister  Vastupdla— Shrl  Lalitadevi's 
image."    This  temple  appears  to  have 
been  built  A.D.  1231.    There  are  also 
long  inscriptions,  which  wiil  be  found 
in  Mr.  Burgess's   Report,  pp.  171  to 
173.      Further  N.  is   the  temple  of 
Samprati  RdjA,  called  on  Tod's  plate 
the  Palace  of  KhengAr.    This  temple 
is  probably  one  of  the  oldest  on  the 
hill,  and  an  inscription  in  it  dates 
from  A.D.  1158.     Samprati  is  said  to 
have  ruled  at  Ujjain  in  the  end  of  the 
3rd  century  B.C.,  and  to  have  been  the 
son  of  Kunala,  Ashoka's  3rd  son.     On 
the  verge  of  the  hill  N.  of  the  Jain 
temples  is  a  huge  isolated  rock  called 
the  Bhairava-Jap,  already  mentioned. 


Suicides  liavcj  been    long  forbidden, 
but   about  16  yeai*s  ^ago  3  peasants 
made  the  fatal  leap^     S.  of  this,  and 
200  ft.  above  the  Jain  temples,  is  the 
Gaumukha    shrine,   near  a  plentiful 
spring  of  water.    From  it  the  crest  of 
the  mountain  is  reached  by  a  long 
steep  flight  of   stairs.      This  is  3330 
ft.    above     sea   level.     Here    is    an 
ancient  temple  of  Amba  Mdtd.    The 
Jain  temples  are  all  clean;    this  is 
filthy.     This  summit  has  but  a  small 
plateau.     To  the  E.,  not  far  ofli,  is 
a  still  higher  rocky  spire,  and  beyond 
it  another,  still  steeper,  and  without 
a  blade  of  grass  on  its  granite  sides. 
Still  further  off  is  a  third  but  lower 
summit.     These  are  the  GoraknAth, 
the  Nemn4th,  and  the  KAlika  Peaks. 
Descending  from  the  Amba  MAta  70 
ft.,  the  traveller  must  climb  thrice 
that  height  to  the    top  of  Gorakh- 
ndth,  where  is  a  shrine  3  ft.  sq.     De- 
scend again  400  ft.  to  a  reservoir  called 
the  Kamandalakunda.   Then  climb  the 
Guru   Dattdtraya,  or  Nemndth  Peak. 
This  ascent  will  be  made  on  all  fours. 
There  is  a  small  open  shrine  over  the 
footmarks  of  Nemndth  cut  in  the  rock, 
and  here  lives  a  naked  ascetic.    Nem- 
ndth  is    the    favourite  deity  of   the 
Digambara,    or    naked    Jains.      His 
paternal  uncle  was  Vasudev,  father  of 
Kp^hna.    He  left  D wdrka  when  he  was 
300  yrs.  old  and  spent  his  last  700  yrs. 
at  Girndr.    Here  the  pilgrims  leave 
their  sticks.     This  peak  is  3450  ft. 
high.      Gorakndth  is    20  ft.  higher. 
Kdlika  was  the  residence  of  the  ex- 
tinct Aghorls.    Tlie  view  from  these 
peaks  is  truly  magnificent. 


Sect.  II.     lioute  31. — JUndgadh  to  Virdwal  and  Somndth,         359 


ROUTE  31. 

jtJnagadh  to  vibAwal  AlO) 
*  somnAth. 

To  reach  Somndth  the  traveller  will 
make  the  following  stages  : — 


From 

To 

• 

Remabks. 

Jun&ga4h 

BantilU,  or 

M. 

A  little  Iwyond 

Bantu     . 

« 

the    5th    mile- 

Bantu      . 

Agatrai 

10 

stone  is  a  tine 

Agatrai     . 

KoiWna     . 

9 

well  on  the  r., 

Koildna    . 

Banduri     . 

10 

called  Rd  Khen- 

Banduri    . 

Kerera 

6 

g&r's,andonthe 
1.  ShAhp\ir  vil- 

Kerera 

Virdwal 

10 



;age,  which 
yields   Rs.  6000 

Total .    . 

53 

a  year  to  the 

heir-apparent. 

At  Bantu  is  the  NilwAb's  palace, 
where   travellers   may     obtain    per- 
mission to  stop.     The  town  is  very 
ancient,  surrounded  by  a  fortification. 
A  havalddr,  anAik,  and  14  policemen  are 
stationed  here.    The  road  after  Bantll 
is  bad  and  full  of  nits.     After  1  m. 
cross  the  Ogat   river,  a  clear    swift 
stream,  which  here  makes  a  wide  pool 
of  water.    At  3  m.  cross  the  Bidri  ;  at 
8  m.  cross  the  Sdbll.      At  Agatrai 
there  is  a  fine  grove  of  tamarind  trees 
on  the  1.,  under  the  shade  of  which 
change  horses.    The  village  belongs  to 
Bah&u'd  din,  the  Niiwdb's  minister. 
At  Banduri  there  is  a  good  upper- 
storied  bangld  which  belongs  to  the 
NiiwAb,  and  is  160  yds.  to  the  1.  of 
the  road.      There  is  a  fine  view  from 
the  upper  windows,  and  GimAr  can  be 
seen  in  the  dim  distance.      The  Glr 
forest  lies  a  few  m.  to  the  E.,  in  which 
are  many  lions  and  wild  beasts.    Just 
before  reaching  Kerera  cross  a  stream. 
There  is  no  village  here  ;  the  road  is 
very  good  beyond  this.    An  ancient 
Mandir  is  passed,  and  then  the  villages 
Chandroa,  Kindora,  and  Chiltruri,  all 
on  the  1.    At  2  m.  from  Virdwal  you 
see  to  the  r.  the  old  temple  of  Dhuni- 


b&rah,  where  the  DevkA  river  falls 
into  t^e  sea.  Then  the  white  buildings 
of  VirAwal  are  seen,  and  the  DevkA  is 
crossed  by  a  bridge  of  3  arches.  The 
road  then  approaches  to  within  200  yds. 
of  the  N.  gate  of  Virdwal  and  turns  to 
the  r.  to  the  very  handsome  and  com- 
fortable banglA  of  the  Pol.  Agent, 
close  to  the  sea,  where  travellers  may- 
obtain  permission  to  stop.  Before 
reaching  it  a  house  belonging  to  the 
DlwAn  of  JiinAgadh  is  passed,  and 
also  the  office  bangld  of  the  A.  P.  A. 
The  Wahiwatdar  is  IIAjl  'Abdu'l  Latlf , 
who  is  a  most  respectable  and  courteous 
gentleman.  His  sons  reside  at  Aden, 
and  are  well  known  to  the  English. 
The  fish  at  Virdwal  are  excellent,  par- 
ticularly the  pomfret,  which  is  the 
finest  fish  in  India,  and  most  abundant 
here.  The  famous  and  ancient  city  of 
Somndth,  from  which  Mal^mM  of 
Ghaznl  took  incalculable  treasures,  is 
2  m.  to  the  E.  of  Virdwal.  A  vehicle 
will  be  easily  procured  from  the  Wahi- 
watddr  to  visit  Patau,  or  the  City,  as 
Somndth  is  called.  The  road  passes 
along  a  vast  burial-ground,  with  thou- 
sands of  tombs,  to  the  r.  Some  of 
them  have  figures  of  horses,  said 
to  have  been  killed  when  Mahmiid 
took  the  city,  but  perhaps  they  only 
represent  mounted  warriors.  There 
are  also  buildings  which  well  deserve 
examination  after  the  traveller  has 
seen  the  city.  The  Jiindgadh,  or  W. 
gate,  by  which  Somndth  is  entered  is 
a  triple  gate,  and  the  road  turns  to 
the  r.  in  it  and  then  to  the  1.  It  may 
be  1200  yrs.  old,  and  is  clearly  of 
Hindi!  architecture.  Before  reaching 
it,  at  about  20  yds.  W.  of  it,  there 
are  2  slabs  with  Arabic  inscrip- 
tions, which  have  the  usual  extract 
from  the  Kurdn  about  mosques. 
The  centre  part  of  the  1st  division  of 
the  gateway  is  very  ancient,  and  built 
of  stones  2  ft.  long ;  it  is  shown  to  be 
flindii  by  the  carving  of  2  elephants 
on  either  side  pouring  water  over 
Lakshmi,  but  the  figure  of  the  god- 
dess is  almost  obliterated,  either  by 
the  Muslims  or  by  time.  In  the 
recesses  of  the  gateway  are  carvings 
in  relief  of  lotuses  and  censers.  Tho 
arch  under  which  the  road  passes  is 


360        SoiUe  31. — Jiindgadh  to  Virdwal  and  Somndth.    Sect.  II. 


23  ft.  4  high  and  12  ft.  6  broad.     The 
projecting  window  above  it  is  sap- 

?orted  by  the  common  Hindii  bracket, 
o  the  eaves  of  this  window  is  32  ft., 
and  thence  to  the  top  of  the  wall  14  ft, 
total  46  ;  bat  there  is  a  narrow  piece 
of  wall  which  rises  10  ft.  above  this. 
As  the  gateway  now  stands  the  wall, 
which  projects  2  ft.  from  the  general 
wall  of  the  city,  is  52  ft  broad,  but 
only  32  ft.  of  this  is  of  Ma^miid's  time. 
Some  3b  ft  of  the  dty  waJl,  on  the  r. 
of  the  gateway,  has  fallen  into  a 
minoos  heap ;  ,there  is  some  appear- 
ance of  writing  abont  5  ft.  from  the 
j^und  on  the  1.  of  the  gateway,  which 
IS  probably  Arabic  from  the  dots,  but 
not  a  single  letter  can  be  distin- 
guished. After  passing  the  2nd  gate 
there  is  on  the  r.  a  carving  of  birds 
and  leaves,  round  a  door  on  a  stylo- 
bate  which  led  to  a  storehouse  called 
Wandarkot,  but  is  now  blocked  up. 
On  the  1.  is  the  W.  wall  of  a  mosque 
of  the  time  of  Ma^^mtid.  There  isno 
inscription  in  it,  but  its  antiquity  is  so 
certain  that  the  Niiwdb  has  assigned 
the  revenue  of  3  villages  for  keeping  it 
in  order.  After  passing  the  3rd  gate 
of  the  Jiin^adh  Gateway,  there 
are  4  stones  on  the  r.  hand,  of  which 
2  have  Gujarat!  inscriptions,  and  2 
which  are  black  with  streaks,  have 
Sanskrit  inscriptions.  The  1st  stone 
has  the  date  Samvat  1624.  Driving 
on  straight  through  the  bdz4r,  which 
is  very  narrow,  and  has  quaint  old 
houses  on  either  side,  you  come  to  the 
Jdm^i  Masjid.  Ascend  7  steps  of 
yellow  marble  into  a  most  ancient 
poreh,  which  has  been  a  mandir  in 
front  of  a  Hindii  temple.  The  porch 
is  paved  with  yellow  marble,  and  is 
18  ft  8  from  N.  to  S.,  and  19  ft  6 
from  E.  to  W.,  and  to  the  top  of  the 
dome  inside  is  14  ft  There  is  a  long 
pendant  in  the  centre  of  the  dome. 
The  porch  has  2  pillars  in  front,  1  on 
either  side  of  the  door,  and  10  pilasters 
round  the  room.  There  is  a  stylobate 
2  ft.  4  high,  from  which  the  pillars 
spring.  They  are  6  ft  6  high,  and 
support  a  thick  entablature,  above 
which  is  an  opening  all  round  14  inches 
high.  The  dome  inside  has  8  rows  of 
carving,  including  the  pendant. 


The  most  interesting  part  of  this 
very  ancient  building  is,  that  in  each 
of  the  four  comers  is  a  carving  of  two 
human  figures,  with  the  Bo-tree  be- 
tween them.  On  the  same  line  with 
them  are  lions*  heads.  The  capitals 
of  the  pillars  have  been  adorned  with 
figures,  now  broken.  You  now  pass 
through  a  low  door  in  the  W.  side  of 
the  porch  into  the  court  of  the  moeque, 
which  is  much  ruined ;  it  has  been  de- 
serted for  25  years,  and  inhabited  by 
Muslim  fishermen,  who  dried  their 
fish  in  it.  A  Muslim  gentleman,  Sai- 
yid  'Abdu*114h  bin  ^usain,  got  them 
removed.  In  the  centre  of  the  mosque 
stands  a  fine  tamarind  tree,  under 
which  are  2  tombs,  an  old  and  a  new  ; 
and  on  the  right  is  a  small  tank  for  ab- 
lutions. The  court  of  the  mosque  is 
102  ft  3  in.  from  E.  to  W.,  and  84  ft. 
3  in.  from  N.  to  S.,  and  is  surrounded 
by  a  corridor  14  ft.  broad,  the  roof  of 
which  is  supported  by  two  rows  of  17 
pillars  each  on  the  K.  and  S.  sides, 
and  15  pillars  on  the  E.  side.  The 
pillars  are  8  ft.  6  in.  high,  and  are 
richly  carved.  The  mosque  itself  is 
43  ft  8  in.  high  from  B.  to  W.,  and 
112  ft  from  N.  to  S.  It  has  five  low 
domes,  and  the  roof  is  supported  by 
17  rows  of  six  pillars  each  ;  total,  112. 
The  space  unacr  the  central  dome  is 
made  octagonal  by  eight  pillars.  This 
dome,  inside  measurement,  is  18  ft. 
high,  and  has  10  rows  of  carvings,  in- 
cluding the  pendant,  which  is  very 
rich.  The  pavement  is  of  marble,  ori- 
ginally yellow,  but  in  many  places 
blackened  by  the  fires  of  the  fisher- 
men. The  pulpit  was  of  stone,  but 
only  the  top  remains.  Five  new  steps 
of  masonry  and  chunam  have  been 
added.  In  the  W.  wall  are  5  alcoves, 
which  have  only  a  lotus  carved  in  the 
centre.  From  the  flat  roof  to  the 
ground  is  12  ft  It  may  be  useful  to 
mention  here  the  names  of  the  gates 
of  the  city.  1.  The  W.  gate,  by  which 
you  enter  from  Virdwal,  is  the  Jiind- 
gadh Gate.  2.  The  E.  gate,  called 
Ndni,  or  **  small,"  and  also  the  San- 
gam  or  Confluence  Gate.  The  next 
place  to  be  visited  is  the  old  temple 
of  Somn&th.  To  reach  this  you  must 
drive  through  the  bizdr,  where  there 


Sect.  11. 


Route  31. — Somndth, 


361 


is  hardly  room  for  a  carriage  to  pass, 
and  turn  to  the  right.  The  temple  is 
close  to  the  sea.  There  is  a  full  ac- 
count of  it  in.  the  Bkanda  Purdna. 
It  was  built,  according  to  that  ac- 
count, of  gold,  in  the  Satya  Yug,  or 
Golden  Age,  by  Eum^r  F&l,  a  Pram&r 
B^jpiit ;  rebuUt  by  R&van,  of  Lanka, 
of  suver ;  and  built  again  by  Krishna  of 
gems.  When  taken  by  MahmM  it  was 
surrounded  by  a  strong  wall,  and  was  a 
fortress,  in  which  were  gardens  and 
many  buildings.  A  long  portico  ex- 
tended 100  ft.  or  more  in  front  of  it. 
Now  the  temple  stands  alone,  stripped 
even  of  its  marble.  Even  in  its  pre- 
sent state  it  is  perhaps  the  finest  speci- 
men of  stone  carving  in  India ;  like,  but 
superior  to,  the  temples  at  Dabhoi  and 
Lakkundi.  The  E.  door,  opposite  the 
adytum,  is  probably  the  place  from 
which  the  famous  gates  of  Somndth, 
brought  from  Ghaznl  to  A'gra  in  Lord 
EUenborough's  ume,  were  taken ;  but 
no  one  in  Somndth  can  tell.  The 
present  WahitwadAr  thinks  they  were 
taken  from  the  W.  arch.  There  are 
no  signs  of  fastenings  to  which  gates 
could  have  been  attached ;  but  the 
stone  which  stood  at  the  top  of  the  E. 
portil  in  the  ancient  time  has  been 
removed.  As  the  entrance  now  is,  the 
height  is  15  ft.,  and  the  breadth  7  ft. 
9  in.  Outside  the  entrance,  on  the  N. 
side,  are  two  pillars  20  ft.  high  and 
8  ft.  in  circumference  at  the  middle. 
The  corresponding  pillars  on  the  S. 
side  have  fallen.  These  pillars  were, 
perhaps,  only  part  of  a  series  belong- 
ing to  the  corridor  at  the  entrance. 
There  are  three  entrances,  E.,  N.,  and 
8. ;  and  at  either  side  of  the  E.  portal 
are  nine  perpendicular  borders  of 
carving,  six  of  leaves  and  three  of 
figures  ;  the  first  or  outside  row  being 
of  leaves,  and  the  figures  being  inter- 
posed one  between  each  two  of  leaves. 
There  is  a  corridor  round  the  central 

Elace  which  is  octagonal,  and  covered 
y  the  dome.  This  corridor  is  16  ft. 
4  in.  broad,  and  has  two  rows  of  pil- 
lars. Besides  the  central  dome  there 
are  four  others,  the  fourth  being  over 
the  adytum  ;  the  other  three  are  on 
the  E.,  N.,  and  S.  The  dome  in  the 
centre  is  supported  by  8  pillars  and  8 


arches,  and  no  wood  seems  to  have 
been  used.  It  appears  that  all  the 
arches  were  originally  square  at 
top.  Now  only  the  E.  and  W.  have 
square  tops,  and  the  others  are  semi- 
circular. These  semicircular  tops  have 
clearly  been  inserted  into  the  square 
ones  at  a  time  long  posterior.  The 
square-topped  arches  are  14  ft  9  in. 
high,  19  ft.  broad  at  bottom,  and  6  ft. 
3  in.  broad  at  top.  The  arches  with 
semicircular  tops  are  some  broad, 
others  narrow ;  the  broad  are  13  ft. 
3  in.  high,  and  11  ft.  9  in.  broad  at 
bottom.  The  narrow  are  of  the  same 
height,  but  only  9  ft.  broad.  Prom  the 
ground  to  a  rim  projecting  a  few  inches 
whence  the  dome  springs  is  19  ft.  The 
height  of  the  central  dome,  measuring 
it  as  an  arc,  is  26  ft.,  and  the  circum- 
ference 1 1 1  ft.  To  the  top  of  the  dome 
inside  is  32  ft.  7  in.  There  is  a  email 
pendant,  and  the  inside  of  the  dome  is 
very  plain.  The  pillar  on  the  right- 
hand  looking  from  the  E.,  next  but  one 
before  reaching  the  adytum,  has  an 
inscription,  which  is  all  illegible  but 
the  date,  Samwat,  1697=1640  A.D. 
You  ascend  to  the  door  of  the  adytum 
by  3  steps,  and  descend  to  its  pave- 
ment by  5  more.  The  pavement  has 
been  of  black  granite,  and  was  dug  up 
by  an  oflicer  named,  it  is  said.  Lister, 
in  search  of  coins  and  copper  grants, 
but  he  found  nothing  ;  and  it  is  to  be 
regretted  that  he  did  not  restore  the 
floor  to  its  original  state,  instead  of 
leaving  it  in  utter  ruin.  The  adytum 
is  19  ft.  square.  From  the  top  of  the 
dome  to  the  floor,  outside  measure- 
ment, is  now  26  ft. ;  but  the  top  of  the 
cupola  has  been  removed,  and  an 
aperture  made  of  5  ft.  diameter. 
Some  of  the  stones  used  in  paving  the 
adytum  are  very  large,  as  much  as 
3  ft.  11  in.  long,  3  ft.  7  in.  broad, 
and  1  ft.  6  in.  thick.  The  inside  of 
the  adytum  was,  no  doubt,  originally 
handsome.  The  walls  on  the  N.,  S., 
and  W.  sides  have  each  two  hand- 
somely carved  niches,  in  which  there 
have  been  idols.  Above  them  is  a 
ledge  1  ft.  7  in.  broad,  supported  by 
the  common  Hindii  bracket ;  and  be- 
tween them  and  this  ledge  are  ele- 
phants pouring  water  over  Lakfhmi, 


3G2         Boute  31. — Jundgadh  to  Virdwcd  and  Somndth,     Sect.  II. 


much  obliterated.  Above  the  ledge 
are  pillars  3  ft.  G  in.  high.  A  stone, 
with  the  figure  of  a  goddess  brought 
from  some  other  place,  lies  here.  The 
carving  outside  the  adytum  and  gene- 
rally on  the  sides  of  the  mosque  is 
truly  wonderful.  It  must  be  observed 
that  the  N.  side  of  the  temple  is  com- 
pletely ruined,  while  the  S.  side  is  in 
fair  preservation.  The  beads  of  carving 
are  as  follows  : — First,  there  is  a  base 
4  ft.  high,  with  very  slight  ornament. 
Then  comes  a  band  of  dancing  figures 
or  lovers ;  then  a  band  of  elephants, 
1  ft.  high ;  then  a  band  of  fighting 
horsemen;  then  one  of  dancing  women; 
then  one  of  lotuses ;  then  one  of  two 
figure  groups,  with  trees  between  every 
two.  Then  three  cornices ;  then  a  frieze 
of  figures,  3  ft.  high.  The  next  place 
of  importance  is  the  confluence  of  the 
three  rivers,  or  Triveni.  This  is  a 
name  of  the  Ganges,  especially  where 
it  receives  the  Yamund,  and,  as  it  is 
supposed,  the  Saraswati,  but  here 
where  a  smaller  stream,  another  Sa- 
raswatl,  on  the  right  is  joined  by  the 
Kiranya,  into  which  the  Kapila  falls. 
To  reach  this  the  traveller  will  pro- 
ceed through  the  E.  gate,  before  arriv- 
ing at  which,  and  about  100  yards 
from  it,  you  will  pass,  on  the  right,  a 
white  marble  pillar,  with  an  alto-ri- 
lievo  of  figures.  It  stands  where  there 
was  an  old  tank.  The  E.  gate  has  3 
pilasters  on  either  side,  the  capitals  of 
which  represent  figures  issuing  out  of 
the  mouths  of  Makars,  a  fabulous  cro- 
codile, which,  in  Hindii  mythology,  is 
the  emblem  of  the  God  of  Love.  On 
the  right-hand  wall  as  you  go  out  is  a 
black  stone  with  a  Sanskrit  inscription 
and  a  date,  in  which  only  the  word 
Samwat  can  be  read.  About  a  quarter 
of  a  mile  E.  of  the  gate  outside  it  you 
come  to  a  pool  on  the  right  hand,  called 
a  Kund,  and  a  small  building  on  the 
left  called  the  Adi  Tlrth,  and  then  to 
a  temple  and  the  Tlrth  of  Triveni, 
where  many  people  are  always  bath- 
ing. The  stream  here  is  from  200  to 
300  yds.  broad,  and  runs  into  the  sea. 
N.  of  this,  about  200  yds.  off,  is  a 
temple  to  the  sun,  half  broken  down 
by  Ma^miid,  standing  on  high  ground, 
and  wondrously  old  and  curious.    The 


roof  is  supported  by  6  pillars,  3  on 
either  side,  11  ft.  3  in.  high  to  the  enta- 
blature, which  is  15  in.  more.  Besides 
these  there  are  two  pillars  on  either 
side  of  the  door  of  the  adytum,  with 
corresponding  pilasters.  Over  the  door 
of  the  adytum  are  5  groups  of  2  figures 
each,  with  a  tree  between  each  2.  In- 
side the  adytum  is  a  round  red  mark 
for  the  sun,  not  ancient ;  and  below  is 
a  figure  of  a  goddess,  also  coloured 
red.  The  pillars  are  ail  of  one  piece 
of  stone,  without  joining.  On  the  W. 
and  S.  outer  walls  are  masses  of  carving 
much  worn.  The  Brdhmans  point  out 
a  C/iaturhhvJ  figure  in  the  centre  of 
each  group,  which  they  say  represents 
the  sun;  but  it  has  over  the  right 
shoulder  what  looks  like  a  discus,  and 
may  perhaps  be  Vighnu.  At  the  bottom 
there  is  a  &ieze  of  Keshnri  lions,  that 
is,  lions  with  elephants'  trunks.  There 
are  rows  of  Apsaras,  and  here  and  there 
men  and  women.  This  temple  is  pro- 
bably of  the  same  age  as  that  of  Som- 
ndth.  About  250  yds.  to  the  W.  is  a 
vast  tomb,  quite  plain ;  and  below,  in 
a  sort  of  quarry,  is  a  subterraneous 
temple,  which  is  called  Ahdi  Shah's. 
The  same  name  is  given  to  a  mosque 
with  6  cupolas  to  the  N.,  which  has 
been  a  Hindil  temple.  It  would  seem 
as  if  a  number  of  those  killed  in  Mah- 
miid's  siege  were  buried  here,  for  there 
are  many  old  tombs  scattered  about. 
Returning  from  this  and  re-entering 
the  NdnA  Gate,  proceed  200  yards  to 
the  N.W.,  where  is  the  temple  built 
by  Ahalya  Bdi,  which  also  is  called 
Somndth.  Below  the  temple  is  another, 
reached  by  descending  22  steps.  The 
dome  of  this  subterraneous  building  is 
supported  by  16  pillars,  7  ft.  4  in. 
high ;  and  the  rim  from  which  the 
dome  springs  is  1  ft.  above  the  pillars. 
The  temple  itself  is  13  ft.  sq.  There 
is  nothing  interesting  about  the  build- 
ing, except  that  it  was  built  by  Ahalya 
Bdi.  Returning  from  this  the  traveller 
may  stop  at  the  small  mosque  on  the 
left  as  you  enter  the  third  part  of  the 
Jiindgadh  Gate.  The  custodian's  name 
is  Saiyid  Mul^ammad,  and  he  is  the 
second  son  of  Saiyid  'Abdu'Udh-bin 
Husain  Idnisl,  who  cleared  the  chief 
mosque,  and  is  buried  a  little  to  the  E. 


Sect.  IT. 


Emite  31. — Somndth. 


363 


of  this  small  mosque  in  a  very  hand- 
somely carved  tomb,  llie  roof  of  this 
mosque  is  supported  by  4  rows  of  4 
pillars  each.  Each  pillar  has  two  di- 
visions, and  looks  as  if  one  pillar  had 
l)een  put  on  another.  The  pulpit  has 
3  steps.  There  are  carvings  of  lotuses 
and  lions'  heads  on  the  stone  roof. 
Over  the  alcove,  which  forms  the  Point 
of  Prayer,  is  inscribed, — 

In  the  name  of  the  Merclftil  and  Compas- 
sionate God,  assuredly  God  is  one,  there  is  no 
]Nirtner  with  God. 

Muzaifar  BhAh,  king  of  countries,  champion 
of  God,  Alimad  prepared  this  holy  building  for 
the  advantage  of  men. 

Under  the  inscription  are  two  branches 
of  trees  carved  in  relief  by  the  Hindtis 
before  the  Muslim  invasion.  Pass  now 
through  the  Jilndgadh  Gate,  and  after 
about  i  m.  come  to  the  MAI  Piirl,  which 
in  ancient  times  was  a  temple  to  the 
sun.  The  carving  of  this  building  is 
exquisite,  and  in  better  preservation 
than  that  of  the  temple  of  SomnAth. 
In  the  centre  of  the  building  is  an  in- 
closure  6  ft.  sq.,  in  which  MAI  Piirl, 
"the  Perfect  Mother,"  Is  buried.  A 
tiresome  legend  is  told  about  her, 
which  alleges  that  she  brought  about 
the  siege  of  Somndth  by  Mahmiid. 
The  temple  or  mosque,  as  the  Muslims 
made  it,  has  6  pillars  on  the  E.  and  W. 
sides,  and  4  on  the  N.  and  8.  sides  ; 
in  all  20.  They  are  7  ft.  high,  to  an 
entablature  of  12  in.,  above  which  are 
pillars  3  ft.  7  in.  high,  with  openings 
c»f  that  width,  and  then  a  plinth,  from 
the  top  of  wiiich  to  the  pavement  is 
13  ft.  Above  the  plinth  is  a  rim,  from 
which  the  dome  springs.  The  height 
of  the  dome  is  20  ft.  The  pavement  is 
of  yellow  marble.  Remark  on  the  E. 
side  one  pillar  broken,  and  patched 
with  a  piece  of  plain  white  stone.  This 
pillar  has  two  rows  of  figures,  the  lower 
row  Apsaras,  the  upper  Deities.  There 
are  several  carvings  in  relief  of  the  Bo- 
tree  between  two  figures.  Most  of 
these  are  broken ;  but  one,  on  the  E. 
side,  has  most  distinctly  a  man  and  a 
woman,  with  a  tree  between  them,  like 
the  pictures  of  Adam  and  Eve.  The 
inside  of  the  dome  is  adorned  with  8 
rows  of  carvings,  with  a  pendant  in 
the  centre  3  ft,  long,  on  which  also  are 


8  rows  of  carvings,  terminating  with 
what  is  said  to  he  the  flower  of  the 
plantain  tree.  The  entablatures  are 
finely  carved  in  relief  with  deities  and 
temples.  In  the  centre  of  the  W.  side 
is  an  alcove  handsomely  carved  with 
lotus  flowers,  and  looking  as  fresh  as 
if  done  yesterday,  but  said  to  be  older 
than  the  time  of  Ma]|imTid.  Opposite 
to  this,  in  the  third  row  of  carvings  on 
the  inside  of  the  dome,  is  a  quite  per- 
fect Lak^hml,  with  elephants  pouring 
water  over  her.  There  is  a  whole  row 
of  these,  but  the  others  are  more  or 
less  smashed.  This  temple  is  a  perfect 
gem,  and  ought  to  be  visited  by  every 
traveller.  About  300  yds.  to  the  E.  is 
a  plain  stone  inclosure  on  the  right  of 
the  road,  in  which  are  the  tombs  of 
J'afar  and  Mui;affar  quite  plain,  but 
with  pillars  3  ft.  high  at  the  head- 
stone. Not  far  from  the  Mdi  Piirl  is 
the  tomb  of  Sildh  Shdh,  which  is  the 
first  large  tomb  as  you  come  from  Vi- 
rdwal.  There  is  a  curious  stand  for 
lamps  here  carved  in  stone,  in  the 
shape  of  a  crown.  The  tomb  is  ruined. 
A  few  yards  to  the  W.  is  a  quaiTy,  in 
which  are  two  wells  faced  with  stone 
as  old  as  the  time  of  Mal^miid.  That 
to  the  E.  is  25  ft.  deep,  and  has  1  ft. 
of  water;  the  other  is  dry.  To  the 
S.E.,  about  50  yds.,  is  the  tomb  of 
Mangroll  Shdh,  which  has  been  re- 
stored by  the  present  Wahitwaddr. 
He  brought  to  it  and  set  up  at  each 
comer  four  handsome  white  minarets, 
which  had  fallen  from  some  other 
building.  His  internal  improvements 
were  not  so  happy,  for  he  coloured 
the  ceiling  of  the  rooms  and  the  lat- 
tice in  front  of  the  shrine  with  red 
and  green,  and  set  up  four  wooden 
pillars  stained  a  reddish  brown.  Before 
reaching  the  shrine  you  pass  through 
the  porch  of  an  ancient  Hindii  temple, 
8  ft.  10  in.  high,  with  a  stylobate  3  ft. 
high,  above  which  are  four  pillars 
4  ft.  9  in.  high,  well  carved. 

Passing  through  this  and  along  a 
dead  wall,  you  come  to  a  plain  room 
used  for  cooking  by  female  pilgrims, 
adjoining  which  on  the  W.  is  the  house 
of  the  custodian,  and  W.  of  that  a  well. 
After  this  comes  the  room  with  the 
coloured  ceiling,  and  to  the  right  of  it 


364        Boute  31. — Jiindgadh  to  Virdwal  and  Somndth,    Sect.  IL 


IB  the  shrine,  protected  by  a  lattice. 
Within  are  two  rooms,  in  the  first  of 
which  is  the  tomb  of  an  ancestor  of  the 
present  Castos,  and  a  piece  of  white 
marble  4  ft.  9  high,  on  which  is 
written  the  Muslim  creed,  then  a  long 
piece  of  Arabic  in  fughrA.  This  is  on 
liie  r.  of  the  2nd  doorway.  On  the  L, 
at  5  ft.  8  from  the  ground,  is  a  slab  of 
white  marble  with  an  Arabic  inscrip- 
tion, saying  it  was  put  up  in  A.H.  1003 
=  1694  A.D.  by  'Abd'ulUh  Kh^n  bin 
'All  Kh4n.  The  Arabic  is  beautifully 
written.  As  the  attendantsat  the  shrine 
will  not  suffer  an  infidel  to  sit  down,it  is 
too  wearisome  to  copy  or  even  to  read 
the  inscriptions.  Thetombof  MangroH 
Sh&h  in  tne  2nd  room  is  covered  with 
a  cloth,  which  they  will  not  remove. 
This  saint  came  from  Mangrol  to 
Somn^th  8  years  before  the  arrival  of 
Ma^mM  of  Ghazni.  His  real  name 
was  Hdji  Muljianunad,  and  the  legend 
is  that  he  told  Mal^miid  that  he  would 
take  Somnith  if  he  put  the  two 
brothers,  J'afar  and  Mu;;affar,  at  the 
head  of  his  troops.  He  did  so,  and 
the  elephant  which  carried  them 
broke  down  one  ot  the  gates,  and  the 
Muslims  stormed  the  city,  and  both 
brothers  were  killed. 

Not  far  from  this  spot  is  the  Plr 
Panjah  Pagoda  on  the  sea-shore.     A 
few  yards  to  the  S.  of  it  is  a  group  of 
20  Pdlea  stones,  in  which  the  size  of  the 
horses  is  absurdly  large  as  compared 
with  that  of  the  men.    There  are  also 
several  small  Chattris  where  monks 
have  been  burned  or  buried.     This 
pagoda  is  very  old,  perhaps  of  the  14th 
century.    It  is  60  ft.  high,  and  forms 
a  good  mark  for  sailors.    About  10  ft. 
from  the  top  are  the  face  and  neck 
of  a  Yoginl,  with  a  red  mark  on  her 
forehead,  and  a  necklace  and  earrings. 
In  the   comer  story,  on  the  S.  face, 
is  a  seated  Yoginl  in  a  Buddhistic 
attitude,  with  her  legs  tucked  under 
her.    The  walls  are  greatly  worn  by 
the  weather.    In  the  court  of  entrance 
are  some  new  buildings.    On  the  r.  is 
a  small  temple  to  Mdtd  Devi,  and  on 
the  1.  the  house  of  the  priest.     On  the 
right  door-post  are  a  few  words  in 
Skr.,  now  illegible.     In  the  temple 
is  a  Lingam.    To  the  £.  of  the  pag^a 


is   a  clear  space  where  Englishmen 
coming  from  R&jkot  pitch  their  tents. 
Across  the  road  to  the  N.  is  the  new 
tomb  of  a  Jewess.    The  town  of  Vira- 
wal  is  very  flourishing.    The  gates  are 
on  the  N.  the  Jiindgadh,  on  the  £.  the 
Patan  and   another,  on   the    S.  the 
BangU  Gate,  the  Dilll  orKheru  (Hus- 
bandman's) Gate,  the  Bh&L  bdrl,  the 
Lokanda,  aud  the  Pdyinpal.    Before 
entering  the  Jiin&gadh  Gate  21  P^eas, 
all  in  a  line  on  the  r.,  are  passed.    One 
is  dated  Samwat,  1885   =  A.D.  1828. 
The  city  walls  were  restored  in  1872. 
On  the  S.W.  face  of  the  city  is  the 
Pier.    Near  its  end  is  the  Lighthouse. 
It  has  an  octagonal  lanthom  and  a  re- 
volving light.    The  lanthom  is  8  ft. 
high  and  20  ft.  round.    It  was  made 
by   Wilkinson    of    Long   Acre.    The 
ascent  to  the  light  is  by  54  steps  ;  the 
height  to  the  1st  gallery  being  46  ft, 
and  thence  to  the  floor  of  the  top 
gallery  10  ft.  4 ;  so  that   the    tot^ 
height  may  be  taken  at  66  ft.,  but 
there  is  also  the  base  from  the  water  to 
the  level  of  the  pier.    It  is  intended  to 
carry  the  pier  out  into  8  fathoms  water. 
The  Custom  House  is  a  fine  building 
to  the  N.  of  the  pier.    It  was  built  in 
1875.    There  are  5  large  rooms  in  the 
lower  story,  and  4  in  that  above.    The 
sea  front  is  155^  ft.  long  from  N.  to  S., 
and  the  building  is  38  ft.  6  deep  from 
E.  to  W.    There  is  a  verandah  8  ft. 
broad,  with  13  arches.    The  Pagoda 
to  the  N.  of  the  A.  Pol.  A.'s  bangle,  on 
the  sea-shore,  and  N.W.  of  the  city  of 
Virdwal,  is  also  worth  a  visit.    It  is 
called  the  Dhunlbdrah  Pagoda,  and  the 
word    DhunUdrah  is   said    to  mean 
"  Lord  of  the  Confluence  ;  "  it  is  at  the 
point  where  the  Devkd  river  falls  into 
the  sea.    In  February  the  river  does 
not  reach  the  sea,  but  ends  in  a  wide 
pool.     In  the  rains  a  strong  stream 
pours  into  the  se&    At  about  half  a 
mile  from  the  sea  the  river  is  crossed 
by  a  bridge,  and  here  there  are  alliga- 
tors, but  not  large.    The  road  from  the 
bangl4  to  the  pagoda  is  over  heavy 
sand,  the  distance  1^  m.    For  400  yds. 
near  the  Pagoda,  and  beyond  it,  there 
is  a  curious  outcrop  of  rock,  all  the 
other  part  being  fine  sand.    This  rock 
is  honeycombed  by  the  waves.    The 


Sect.  II. 


Boute  32. —  Virdwal  to  Dwdrka, 


365 


Pagoda  is  perhaps  one  of  the 
oldest  in  IndiA,  and  is  mentioned  in 
the  Prak&sh  Purina,  which,  how- 
ever, is  not  in  the  list  of  acknow- 
ledged old  Pur^nas.  The  Devkd 
is  about  50  yds  S.  of  the  Pagoda,  and 
half  way  there  is  a  small  Chattrl 
where  an  ascetic  was  burnt  or  buried. 
The  Pagoda  measures  16  ft.  2  from 
N.  to  S.  and  12  ft.  4  from  E.  to  W. 
Outside  are  Dw^rpdls  and  Nandi,  and 
inside  is  the  Lingam.  Over  the  door 
is  a  white  marble  tablet  with  a  Sans- 
krit inscription,  which  has  become 
illegible.  The  spire  of  the  Pagoda  is 
marked  with  10  rims,  and  on  the 
second  from  the  top  is  the  face  of  a 
Togini,  with  projecting  ears  and  a  red 
spot  on  the  forehead.  The  black  rock 
here  when  broken  is  white  inside. 


ROUTE  32. 

VIBAWAL  TO  DWABKA. 

The  land  journey  from  Virdwal  to 
Dw&rka  is  difficult  and  uninteresting, 
and  as  steamers  call  at  Virdwal,  it  will 
be  best  to  proceed  by  one  of  them  to 
Dw&rka.  The  steamers,  however,  lie 
2  miles  or  more  off  shore,  and  it  very 
often  blows  hard,  so  that  there  is  con- 
siderable inconvenience  in  getting  on 
board.  Thero  ought  to  be  a  steam- 
launch  for  passengers  at  Vir&wal  and 
Dw&rka,  and  it  is  surprising  that  the 
steam  companies  do  not  provide  one. 
From  Yirdwal  to  Dw^ka  is  about  110 
miles,  and  the  voyage,  including  a 
detention  of  about  }  of  an  hour  at 
Porbandar,  occupies  from  Ifi  to  18 
hours.    The  Thdkor  of  Porbandar  was 


in  the  first  class  of  E&thiawdd  chiefs, 
but  has  been  reduced  to  the  drd  cl. 
for  not  contributing  to  Public  Works. 
Travellers  would  probably  not  meet 
with  much  assistance  from  this  chief, 
and  as  there  is  nothing  very  interest- 
ing to  be  seen  at  his  capital,  a  visit  to 
it  could  not  be  recommended.  At 
Dwirka  a  pier  is  much  required. 
Though  the  water  is  shallow  the  surf 
breaks  with  some  force,  and  the  visitor 
will  have  to  be  carried  ashore  by  the 
boatmen.'*'  The  Assist.  Resident's  house 
is  about  J  of  a  m.  from  the  landing- 
place  to  the  N.W.  There  is  a  pillar  close 
to  it  on  the  S.  which  was  put  up  to  com- 
memorate the  services  of  the  officer 
who  took  Dwdrka  in  1820.  There  is, 
however,  no  inscription.  The  pillar 
is  51  ft.  6  in.  high,  of  which  4  steps  to 
ascend  to  the  plinth  are  4  ft.  The  base 
is  12ft.  Sin.  high,  and  8ft.  9 in.  sq. 
The  plinth  or  platform  on  which  the 
pillar  stands  is  27  ft.  sq. 

The  great  sight  at  Dwdrka  is  the 
temple  of  Dwdrkandth,  "  Lord  of 
Dwdrka,"  a  name  of  Krishna,  who  is 
said  to  have  reigned  in  this  locality 
3000  years  ago,  in  a  city  now  sub- 
merged under  the  sea.  According  to 
the  best  accounts  the  temple  was  built 
in  480  A.D.  by  Gupta  Rdjd,  who 
ruled  the  territory  bordering  the 
Ganges  at  that  date,  and  conquered 
Oka  Mandal.  The  Brdhmans,  how- 
ever,ascribe  itsfoundation  to  Vajmdth, 
"  Lord  of  the  thunderbolt,"  the  grand- 
son of  Krishna.  It  stands  in  the  Fort 
on  the  N.  bank  of  the  Gromti  creek, 
about  100  yards  E.  of  its  termination, 
and} of  a  m.  from  the  Assist.  Resident's 
house  and  8.E.  of  it.  In  going  to  it 
the  traveller  may  stop  at  thcj  tomb  of 
Lt.  Marriott,  which  is  under  the  E. 
wall  of  the  Fort.  This  wall  is  about 
20  ft.  high,  and  is  scarred  with  bullets 
and  cannon-balls.  It  is  of  stone,  and 
about  4  ft.  from  the  top  appears  to 
have  been  beaten  down  and  built  up 
again.  The  tomb  is  6  ft.  10  in.  from 
E.  to  W.,  3  ft.  2  in.  from  N.  to  S.,  and 
3  ft.  9  in.  high.  The  platform  on  which 

*  Sharks  are  very  numerous  and  dangerous 
at  Dwdrka,  and  come  into  the  very  shallow 
water,  where  they  are  often  seen  close  to  the 
shore 


366 


EotUe  32. — Virdwal  to  Dwdrka, 


Sect.  II. 


it  stands  is  7  in.  high.     The  inscrip- 
tion is : — 

Here  lies 

the  body  of 

WILLIAH  HENRY  MARRIOTT, 

Lieutenant 

in  H.M.'s  67th  Regiment  of  Foot, 

and 

Aid  (»ic)  de  Cainp 

to    the    Honourable 

Hountstuart  Elphiustone, 

Governor  of  Bombay ; 

Died  8th  of  December,  1820, 

Aged  2tf  years. 

Tliis  gallant  officer  was  the  first 

Itei-son  who  mounted  to  the 

aMHault  of  the  Fort  of  Dwdrka, 

on  the  20th  November,  lb.20, 

and  died  of  the  wounds  he  received 

on  that  occasion. 


His  friends,  in  token  of  their 

admiration  of  his  gallantry, 

respect  of  his  virtues,  and  esteem 

of  his  amiable  qualities, 

have  erected  this  stone  on  tlie 

spot  where  the  ladder 

was  planted. 


Brief,  brave,  and  glorious 
was  his  young  career. 

No  European  has  ever  been  allowed 
to  enter  the  temple  of  DwArkandth, 
which,  externally  at  all  events,  is  the 
most  beautiful  of  its  kind  in  India. 
Only  favoured  visitors  are  allowed  to 
enter  the  N.  portal  of  the  enclosure, 
but  from  that  point  a  fine  view  of  the 
edifice  is  obtained.  The  temple  is 
built  of  sandstone,  which  is  plastered 
with  chunam.  This; '  originally  of  a 
brilliant  white,  is  now  tinted  with 
dark  shades  by  time  and  weather,  and 
thus  the  surface  resembles  that  of  the 
ancient  stone  cathedrals  of  Europe. 
The  body  of  the  temple  has  5  storieF, 
the  highest  being  100  ft.  from  the 
ground.  The  conical  spire  Ikis  6 
stories,  and  the  finial  is  reached  by 
a  spiral  stone  staircase.  The  height 
has  been  reckoned  by  some  at  170  ft., 
but  careful  measurement  makes  it  150 
ft.  only.  It  is  adorned  with  IjaroMds 
or  ornamental  projecting  windows, 
one  above  another.  From  the  top 
step  of  the  spiral  staircase  to  the  4th 
jarokJid  is  100  ft.,  and  thence  to  the 
ground  is  33  ft.,  but  the  Kalas  of  the 
spire,  which  is  the  gilt  ornament  at 
the  top  of  all,  is  17  ft.  above  the  top- 
most step.     The  whole  temple  is  said 


to  be  built  on  a  platform  IK)  ft.  long 
and  20  broad,  but  this  is  the   state- 
ment of  the  Brdhmans,  and  it  is  impos- 
sible to  test  it,  as  no  European  may 
enter,  but    it  does  certainly  appear 
to  be  less  than  the  truth.    There  are 
4  sets  of  jarokhds  of  7  each,  making 
in   all   49.      Between    eveiy    2  sets 
of  jaroJiMg    there    are    7    tiers    of 
spires,  each  tier  consisting  of  7,  one 
above  the  other,  making  a  total  of  lOG 
spires,  besides  the  grand  central  spire. 
These  masses  of  spires,  and  the  very 
numerous  indentations  of  the  grand 
spire,  or  flutings  as  they  might  be 
called,  have  a  wonderfully  fine  effect, 
and  the  eye  is  never  satiated  with 
gazing  on  such  a  profusion  of  details. 
Besides  these  the  roof  of  the  Mandap 
or  body  of  the  temple  is  covered  with 
short  pillars  1^  ft.  high  and  9  inches 
in  diameter.    These  pillars  are  aids  to 
those  who  climb  up  to  light  the  lamps 
on  the  Gumat  or  "  dome,"  on  festivals. 
The   jarokhdn    arc    surmounted    by 
images  of  Ke^huri  Sings  as  they  are 
called,  that    is,    "winged    lions   with 
trunks  like  those  of  elephants.     On 
the  top  of  the  7th  jarokhd  on  the  N. 
side  are  three  figures.      The  centre 
figure  has  the  face  of  a  woman  with 
the  hinder  quarters  of  a  lion.     This 
is  called   Ajahfjulmedi*     The  figuie 
on  the  right  is  that  of  a  lion,  and 
on  the  left  is  a  Keshuri  Sing.     The  N. 
portal  is  called  the  Mohsh  JDwdra  or 
•'  Door  of  Salvation."      On  the  right, 
inside,  is  a  small  temple  to  Kuslieshwar, 
'*  the  god  of  Kush.'     The  Brdhmans, 
in  their   usual  foolish  way,  explain 
this  name  by  saying  that  Vishnu  here 
destroyed  the  demon  Kush,    Beyond 
this  on  the  r.  is  a  modern  temple  tu 
Ambajl,    built     by    the     Thdkor    of 
WadhwAn  at  a  cost  of  E?.  3000.     On 
the  left  is  an  old  temple  to  Kalydnji, 
or  the  "  lord  of  prosperity."     Part  of 
the  body  of  the  temple  is  built  over 
an  archway,  all  the  arches  of  w^hich 
are    scalloped.      On    the   projecting 
corners    of    this  part    are    carvings 
of  elephants.    There  are  4  red  circles 

*  Ajah  is  in  Arabic  "  wonderful,"  gul  is 
"flower,"  and  Tiiedi  is  Hindi  for  ixilace,  su 
that  tlie  whole  word  would  mean,  *'  wonderful 
pnlure  flower  or  ornament.'' 


Sect,  11.      Haute  32, — Dwdrka — Temple  of  Dwdrkandth. 


367 


under  the  Kalas  which  are  said  to  be 
the  heads  of  Yoginis,  but  time  and 
weather  haye  deprived  them  of  all 
resemblance  of  features.  At  the  foot 
below  these  there  are  4  more  heads  of 
Yoginis,  which  have  not  yet  had  their 
features  obliterated.  The  Kalas  or 
topmost  ornament  is  of  brass  blackened 
b  J  the  weather.  The  spiral  stone  stair- 
case has  112  steps  of  from  1  ft.  to  2  ft. 
high  each.  In  the  Mandap  is  a  hall 
with  60  pillars,  once  carved  but  now 
worn  quite  smooth.  This  hall  is 
called  ^vwj^  and  in  it  the  Br^hmans 
read  the  Pur^nas  to  the  pilgrims.  It 
is  21  ft.  sq.  and  the  pillars  are  built  in 
a  circle  round  it.  According  to  a 
measurement  made  this  year,  the 
temple  is  71  ft.  fi'om  N.  to  S.,  and  78 
ft.  from  E.  to  W.  If  this  be  correct  the 
measurement  of  the  platform  given 
above  is  palpably  understated. 

The  S.  gate  of  the  temple  is  called 
the  Swa/rga  Zhvara,  or  heavenly  door ; 
and  is  close  to  the  Gomti  Creek.  The 
ascent  to  it  is  by  6  flights  of  7  + 13  + 12 
•4-12  +  11  +  1=56  steps.  At  about  50 
yards  S.  of  the  gateway  is  a  building 
called  Shdradd  math,  or  Saraswati's 
Convent.  It  is  square  and  low,  with  a 
number  of  cells,  and  a  little  chapel 
^th  an  image  of  the  goddess,  erected, 
it  is  said,  by  Shankarachdrya.  Jogls 
perform  their  painful  devotions  in  the 
cells,  which  are  dark,  and  miserably 
small.  A  temple  to  Shiva  adjoins  on 
the  N.,  and  outside  the  enclosure,  to 
the  S.,  is  one  to  Damodarjl,  a  name  of 
Kp^hna.  A  tem  pie  to  the  S.E.  is  to  the 
Gomti  creek,  personified  as  a  female. 
Gomti  is  a  word  compounded  of  Go,  "a 
cow,"  and  muti,  "  urine."  This  creek 
is  said  to  begin  at  a  village  6  m.  to  the  E. 
called  MulgovrUi,  '*  source  of  Gomti." 
The  water  flows  due  W.  from  this 
village,  till  near  Dwdrka  it  turns  a 
little  to  the  N.  and  divides  into  two 
branches,  between  which  is  a  small 
island  of  sand,  on  which  is  a  dharmsdld. 
The  branches  are  from  100  to  150  yards 
broad.  To  the  N.  of  the  N.  branch, 
and  about  the  centre  of  it,  is  a  circular 
platform  of  masonry,  with  a  small 
hut  in  the  centre  for  an  idol.  The 
phers,  a  low  caste,  may  not  come  to 
the  W.  of  this  platform,  but  all  other  I 


castes  may  bathe  to  the  W.  of  it.  At 
about  100  yards  to  the  W.  of  the  plat- 
form, is  a  temple  with  a  wall  enclosing 
a  piece  of  water.  This  wall  is  for  the 
safety  of  bathers,  as  the  current  is  very 
strong  here,  and  when  the  Gomti 
joined  the  sea,  sharks  probably  infested 
the  bathing-place.  But  the  mouth  of 
the  Gomti  is  now  silted  up,  and  the 
water,  except  in  very  high  floods,  does 
not  pass  into  the  sea.  To  bathe  in  the 
Gomti  is  one  of  the  chief  objects  of 
pilgrimage,  and  Rs.  20.000  are  collected 
annually  from  the  pilgrims  for  this 
privilege.  In  the  enclosure  at  the 
temple  just  mentioned  there  is  a 
separate  place  for  women.  The  total 
height  of  the  Swarga  gateway  is  34  ft. 
It  has  a  Jarokha,  on  either  side  of 
which  are  carvings  of  elephants  stand- 
ing on  ledges,  very  spiritedly  done. 
To  the  top  of  the  Jarehltd  is  24  ft.  6  in. 
On  entering  the  gateway  one  sees  on 
either  side  two  hands  carved  in  relief, 
and  coloured  red,  which  are  supposed 
to  represent  the  hands  of  Shaktl,  the 
consort  of  Vishnu.  Beyond  them  on 
either  side  is  a  painted  Wsul  or 
"  Trident,"  the  emblem  of  Shiva.  You 
turn  to  the  right  and  ascend  15  steps 
to  the  top  of  the  wall  which  encloses 
the  Temple,  and  from  this  there  is  a 
good  view  over  the  Gomti.  The  top 
of  the  wall  is  very  filthy,  and  the 
stench  is  dreadful,  but  no  one  but 
Hindiis  may  view  the  Temple  on  this 
side  from  any  other  spot.  The  old 
Jail  is  a  little  to  the  E.  ;  and  the  jail 
garden,  60  ft.  long  by  30  broad,  is 
close  to  this  spot.  This  part  of  the 
wall  was  escaladed  by  the  WAghers  iu 
1859.  In  this  quafrter  the  1st  small 
temple  to  the  rt.,  within  the  enclosui'c 
of  the  great  temple,  is  to  Trivikrama, 
that  is,  to  Vishnu,  in  his  6th  incarna- 
tion of  the  dwarf  taking:  the  3  steps, 
with  the  3rd  of  which  he  thrust  King 
Bali  down  to  the  infernal  regions.  A 
temple  to  the  1.  is  to  Mddhuji,  a  name 
of  Krishna,  from  Timdha,  "  honey."  A 
Warghoda  or  procession  takes  place 
eveiy  fortnight,  on  the  11th  day  of 
the  moon.  The  great  procession  is  iu 
Shrdvan,  on  the  11th  day  of  the  light 
half  of  the  moon.  A  figure  of  Gopdljl, 
a  name  of  Kfif^hna.  is  llieii  carried  i 


368 


EotUe  33. — Dwdrka  to  Bet. 


Sect.  11. 


1 


a  pAlki  to  bathe  in  a  tank  !  To  the  N. 
is  a  small  temple  to  Parshotamjl,  a 
name  of  Vishnu  as  the  best  male. 

After  having  seen  the  temple  of 
Dw&rkandth,  the  traveller  should 
proceed  to  the  Library,  at  the  N. 
comer  of  which,  in  the  road,  is  a 
stone  7  ft.  high,  called  the  Mulesh&sa 
stone,  and  said  to  be  2000  years  old. 
It  was  found  at  a  tank  constructed  by 
Jay  Sing  Chdwadil,  and  has  an  in- 
scription in  Devan^gari,  so  worn  by 
age  as  to  be  illegible.  A  copy  was 
sent  to  the  Royal  Asiatic  Society  of 
Bombay,  but  they  could  make  nothing 
of  it  Next  in  size  to  DwArkanith's 
temple  is  that  to  SiddhnAth,  which 
stands  due  N.  of  the  Library,  at  the 
comer  of  the  road  leading  to  the 
Assistant  Resident's  house.  It  has 
recently  been  re-built. 

Opposite  to  it,  but  a  few  hundred 
yards  to  the  S.W.,  are  two  deserted 
temples,  and  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Gomti  creek  is  one  to  SwAml  Nar4- 
yan.  N.  of  the  town,  and  about  1  m. 
off,  is  a  temple  to  Rukmini,  one  of 
Krishna's  wives.  It  has  an  air  of 
solitary  bygone  grandeur  which  is 
impressive,  and  must  have  been  a  fine 
building  when  whole.  There  are 
several  stone  pavilions  near  it.  It 
stands  on  rising  ground,  and  has  a 
propylaeum  with  pillars  in  front.  The 
Shikr  and  part  of  the  Mandap  are  old, 
but  the  rest  has  been  lately  re-built. 
The  other  90  temples  in  and  about  the 
town  are  not  worth  a  visit.  There  are 
good  schools,  particulaiiy  a  girls' 
school,  which  is  well  attended,  and 
the  children  are  clever  and  well  ad- 
vanced. The  Lighthouse  is  a  very 
poor  one.  It  is  built  at  the  back  of 
the  Assist.  Resident's  house,  and  is 
31  ft.  5  high,  and  adding  the  light 
about  34  ft  6.  The  light  is  simply  3 
large  wicks  fed  with  kerosine  oil. 


ROUTE  33. 

DWABEA  TO  BBT. 

The  island  of  Bet,  called  Shank- 
hod^r,  either  from  the  number  of 
gJutnklUj  or  conchs,  found  there,  or 
from  its  fancied  resemblance  in  form 
to  a  conch,  is  situated  about  14  m. 
to  the  N.E.  of  Dwdrka.  The  island  is 
one  of  the  most  sacred  places  to 
Hindtis,  as,  according  to  their  legends, 
a  demon  called  Shankhdsur  here  swal- 
lowed the  Vedas,  which  could  not  be 
recovered  until  Vishnu  became  in- 
carnate in  a  monstrous  lish,  and  pur- 
sued Shankhdsur  into  the  depth  of  the 
sea,  whence  he  brought  back  the  sacred 
books.  This  was  the  Machohh  Fish 
incarnation,  and  the  first  of  the  series 
of  10  incarnations  ascribed  to  Yii^hnu. 
It  is  also  said  that  when  Ma^miid 
Begada  attacked  Dwirka  in  1455,  the 
image  of  Krishna  was  removed  for 
greater  safety  to  Bet,  where  it  now  is  ; 
but  as  the  temples  cannot  be  entered 
by  Europeans,  it  is  impossible  to  verify 
the  fact  There  are,  according  to 
some,  7  sacred  temples  at  Bet,  of 
which  the  chief  are  an  old  and  a  new 
one  to  Ndr&yan,  who  is  the  same  as 
Yi^u,  of  whom  Ep^hi^ia  was  the  8t& 
incarnation.  The  other  5  are  to  the  4 
wives  of  Krishna:  1.  Lak^hml,  2.  Satya- 
bhdma,  3.  Jdmbuvatf,  4.  R4dhd,  and 
to  his  mother  Derkl.  They  were 
built  after  1460  A.D.,  and  were  blown 
up  by  Colonel  Barton  in  the  war  with 
the  W^hers  in  1859,  and  re-built  by 
Kh&nd^  R4o  Gdekwid,  at  a  cost  of 
Rs.  15,000. 

The  road  to  Bet  lies  through  a  level 
coimtry,  but  is  rocky,  full  of  ruts  and 
holes,  and  quite  unshaded,  the  country 
being  covered  with  patches  of  Tiir  or 
'<  milk-bush,"  an  unsightly  plant,  the 
milk  of  which  is  poisonous.  There  are 
several  tanks  on  which  ducks  and  other 
waterfowl  are  to  be  found,  and  part- 
ridges and  other  game  are  met  with 
among  the  jungle,  as  also  a  few  deer. 
As  the  traveller  must  carry  everything 
with  him,  and  as  there  is  no  rest-hoase, 
the  only  mode  of  conveyance  is  a  bul- 


Sect.  IL 


R(ntte  33.— Bet. 


369 


lock-cart,  which  will  travel  from  2  to 
3  m.  an  hour.  The  jolting,  however, 
is  excessive,  and  the  hiEUids  are  strained 
with  holding  on.  The  road  lies  to  the 
rt.  of  Rokmini's  temple,  and  at  the 
2nd  m.  the  village  and  Shivite  temple 
of  Nidreshwar  are  passed,  the  road 
being  about  2  m.  to  the  W.  of  them.  In 
about  an  hour  the  3rd  milestone  will  be 
passed.  Major  Scott,  the  Assistant  Resi- 
dent, a  most  zealous  officer,  has  planted 
trees  of  the  IHous  indica  and  religiosa 
kind  along  the  road,  but  many  of  them 
have  died,  and  the  others  are  too  young 
to  give  shade.  Between  the  3rd  and 
4th  milestone  is  the  walled  town  of 
Bharwdld  on  the  1.  Just  beyond  it  on 
the  rt.  is  a  fine  garden  belonging  to 
H.H.  the  G&ekwdd,  which  extends 
about  I  of  a  m.  About  the  5th  m. 
there  is  a  Wdv  on  the  rt.  where  water 
for  the  bullocks  can  be  got.  At  Muj jin, 
1\  m.  from  Dw&rka,  it  is  usual  to  change 
bullocks.  Here  milk  is  procurable. 
Shortly  after  this  salt-marshes  are  seen 
on  the  1.  with  a  good  many  waterfowl. 
At  the  11th  m.  a  deserted  village  is 
passed  on  the  rt.  The  inhabitants 
were  notorious  robbers,  and  used  to 
plunder  the  pilgi'ims,  so  they  were 
forcibly  expelled.  At  the  14th  m.  is 
the  walled  town  of  Ar&mrah,  near  the 
sea  shore.  There  is  no  shelter  for 
Europeans,  and  if  they  wish  to  halt 
they  must  send  on  tents  from  Dwirka. 
The  place  where  the  sea  is  crossed  to 
Bet  is  a  m.  from  the  W.  gate  of  the 
tovni.  There  is  a  roughly-built  pier 
and  several  pattymars,  country  boats, 
of  from  5  to  30  tons,  for  pilgrims. 
Bullocks  sometimes  break  away  here, 
as  the  road  is  rough  and  difficult,  in 
which  case  travellers  must  walk  to  the 
boat,  or  get  men  to  pull  the  bullock 
cart,  which  they  will  do  for  a  few 
knijR  apiece.  Unless  the  wind  is  very 
favourable,  the  2  m.  of  sea  from  Ardm- 
rah  to  Bet  will  not  b©  crossed  under 
2  hours.  The  water  is  very  shallow 
near  Arimrah,  and  unless  at  high  tide 
a  boat  will  probably  stick  fast,  and 
passengers  may  have  to  wade  a  long 
way.  There  are  many  pdleas  and 
Hindii  monuments  near  Ar&mrah, 
where  much  fighting  has  taken  place, 
and  where  the  English  did  not  suc- 

[-Bowiftay— -1880. 


ceed  in  establishing  order  till  after  a 
struggle  of  years.  The  boat  will  pro- 
bably have  to  sail  several  m.  to  the 
S.E..  to  the  S.  extremity  of  Bet  Island, 
and  then  tack  to  the  N.  in  order  to 
gain  the  anchorage  off  the  town  of 
Bet.  The  coast  of  Bet  is  nowhere 
higher  than  50  ft.  There  is  some 
shooting  to  be  had.  The  temples  are 
200  yds.  from  the  Bandar^  and  as  the 
streets  are  dusty  and  dirty,  and  the 
sun  is  very  powerful,  it  is  a  good  plan 
to  be  carried  in  a  chair  by  Kulls,  and 
then  sit  to  examine  the  outsides  of  the 
temples,  to  enter  which  is  not  allowed. 
As  Englishmen  cannot  ascertain  for 
themselves  how  the  temples  are  inter- 
'  nally  arranged,  there  is  great  uncer- 
tainty about  their  numl«r  and  the 
deities  to  whom  they  are  dedicated. 
The  Br4hmans  say  the  principal  temple 
is  that  to  Ranchorjl,  a  name  of  Krishna, 
who  was  so  called  from  raw,  "  a  battle- 
field," and  chhofndj  to  leave,  because 
he  fled  from  a  battle  with  JardsindJm, 
This  building  is  an  oblong  that  mea- 
sures 34  ft.  8  in.  from  E.  to  W.,  and 
48  ft.  6  in.  from  N.  to  S.  In  front  of 
it  the  traveller  will  find  himself  in  a 
narrow  lane  shut  in  on  3  sides  by 
buildings.  Before  reaching  it  he  will 
pass  a  vast  heap  of  bricks,  the  ruins 
of  the  strong  wall  which  enclosed  the 
temples  and  formed  the  refuge  of  the 
Pirates  of  Bet,  t^^e  WAghers,  and  other 
marauders.  When  this  was  blown  u]) 
it  is  said  the  old  temples  also  were 
thrown  down,  and  if  they  were  not 
superior  edifices  to  those  now  seen,  the 
architectural  loss  was  not  great.  The 
idol  in  Kanchorjl's  temple  is  in  the 
central  part.  In  all  there  are  (> 
temples  to  Krishna,  1  to  Kanchorji, 
1  to  Dwarkan^th,  1  to  Trivikram,  1 
to  Ealydnjl  or  Ptadyumn, .  1  to  Pur- 
^hottam,  and  1  to  M4dhujl,  all  being 
titles  of  the  same  deity.  A  little  to 
his  rt.  the  traveller  will  see  an  arch- 
way about  12  ft.  high  leading  to  the 
houses  of  the  priests,  at  the  end  of 
a  lane  5  ft.  broad,  on  the  1.  of  which 
is  Banchorji's  temple,  and  on  the 
rt.  are  Satyabh&md*s  temple  and 
Jdmwatl's.  These  are  to  the  S.  of 
Ranchorji's,  while  Lak^hral's  and 
R^dhd's  are  to  the  N..  and  so  vao 

B  B 


370 


Route  34. — Dwdrha  to  Mandavi  and  Bhuj,         Sect.  II. 


M4dhuji*s  and  Por^hottam's.  To  the 
S.  again  are  Trivikram's  and  Kal- 
yinji's.  To  the  N.  of  the  archway  is 
a  Sahhd  Ma/ndir,  or  Assembly  Hall, 
which  measures  97  ft.  6  in.  from  E.  to 
W.,  and  27  ft.  9  in.  from  N.  to  S.  It 
has  6  wooden  pillars  in  the  centre, 
and  is  paved  with  stones  of  various 
colours.  From  the  archway  issue  very 
often  pretty  women,  who  are  said  to 
visit  the  shrines  in  the  interior.  They 
are  pilgrims,  and  curious  stories  are  told 
of  them.  Here  the  traveller  may  pur- 
chase conch  shells,  which  the  S&dhus 
who  sell  them  blow  with  a  loud  noise. 
The  closed  ends  are  generally  cut  off. 
They  cost  4  dn&s  each.  The  new 
temple  to  Ndrdyan  is  outside  the  town, 
and  was  built  by  the  R4o  of  Eachh 
80  years  ago,  and  is  500  yds.  to  the 
N.E.  of  the  town.  It  is  36  ft.  into  15 
and  18  ft  high. 


ROUTE  34. 

DWABEA   TO  MANDAVI   AND   BHUJ. 

The  British  India  S.  N.  Compalny^s 
steamers  do  not  stop  at  Dwdrka 
except  on  special  occasions,  and  the 
steamers  of  U  private  firms  at  Bombay, 
although  they  do  generally  call,  are 
not  quite  to  be  depended  upon.  There 
is  no  way  of  ascertaining  at  what  hour 
they  will  arrive,  and  if  it  should  hap- 
den  to  be  in  the  night,  the,  getting  on 
board  them  will  be  a  matter  of  great 
inconvenience  and  some  risk.  The 
alternative  is  to  apply  to  the  Assistant 
Resident  for  the  loan  of  his  yacht,  or 
the  yacht  belonging  to  H.H.  the 
GAekwAd,  but  placed  at  the  disposal 
of  the  Assistant  Resident  This  is 
rather  an  old  vessel,  and  leaks  a  good 


deal,  and  the  sea  is  often  extremely 
rough  between  DwArka  and  MAndavl. 
The  distance  is  48  m.,  but  a  landing 
at  MAndavl  cannot  be  effected  at 
night,  except  it  should  be  high  tide 
and  moonlight.  In  running  along  the 
coast,  one  sees  first  the  pagoda  at 
BharwAIA,  which  is  4  m.  from  DwArka. 
At  6  m.  the  village  of  Kacha  is  passed, 
and  then  the  lighthouse  on  the  N.W. 
extremity  of  the  island  comes  in  sight. 
This  lighthouse  is  on  a  sea-girt  rock 
about  50  ft.  high.  The  coast  is  here 
low,  sandy,  and  uninteresting.  The 
lighthouse  is  24  m.  from  DwArka,  and 
24  m.  remain  to  MAndavl.  Should 
night  come  on,  and  should  it  not  be 
high  tide  on  reaching  MAndavl,  there 
is  nothing  for  it  but  to  anchor,  and 
the  vessel  wiU  roll  so  that  sleep  is 
impossible.  Should  it  come  on  to 
blow,  there  is  danger  of  being  wrecked. 
Steamers  lie  off  shore  more  than  a 
mile.  A  pier  is  being  built  which 
will  add  much  to  the  safety  and  com- 
fort of  the  so-called  harbour  of  MAn- 
davl. At  present  the  vessel,  yacht  or 
pattj'mAr  will  enter  a  creek  to  the  W. 
of  the  lighthouse,  and  after  passing 
through  a  crowd  of  small  craft,  will 
anchor  close  to  the  W.  shore.  The  T.B. 
is  about  1^  m.  from  the  place  of  land- 
ing to  the  S.E.  of  the  town  of  MAndavi. 
To  reach  it  a  filthy,  muddy  creek 
must  be  crossed,  so  that  it  is  better  to 
sit  in  a  chair  and  be  carried  by  4 
strong  KuHs,  which  will  cost  1  r. 
There  is  amessman  at  the  banglA,  who 
will  provide  very  tolerable  food,  but 
at  a  high  price.  No  bread  is  obtain- 
able, only  aps,  or  baked  cakes.  At 
J  m.  to  the  S.E.  of  the  T.  B.  is  the 
English  cemetery.  Within,  to  the  r. 
of  the  entrance,  is  an  inscription  on  a 
tablet  of  white  marble  as  follows  : 
"  This  was  enclosed  by  order  of  H.H. 
the  HAo  of  Kachh,  RAo  Desalji,  1853, 
as  a  token  of  his  respect  for  the 
European  community."  Only  10 
tablets  remain  in  this  cemetery,  and 
one  of  these,  to  the  memoiy  of  Patrick 
Macdonell,  M.D.,  who  died  11  Nov., 
1826,  is  said  to  have  been  renewed 
for  the  3rd  time,  two  former  tablets 
having  perished.  There  is  a  temple 
to  Sundarvar,  a  name  of  Eri^hiaa,  in 


Sect.  11. 


JRotUe  34. — BhuJ. 


371 


the  bdzdr,  which  is  mentioned  in  the 
Keports  to  Goyemment  as  a  place  of 
some  interest.    It  was  built  bj  Bdo 
Bharmalji    in    Samwat  1631  =  A.D. 
1574.     It    is    25  ft.  high  and  about 
20  ft.  sq.  inside   measurement.    The 
image  of  the  god  is  coloured  dark 
blue.    The  old  palace  of  the  Bdos  is 
close  by  to  the  r.  on  the  way  to  the 
Bandar.      The   facade    is    curiously 
ornamented  with  figures  of  Europeans. 
The  oflSce  of  the  Overseer  of  l^ublic 
Works,  Mr.  Shivajl  Qovind,  may  next 
be  visited,  to  reach  which,  the  S.  gate 
of  the  town  is  passed,  where  there  is 
a  Gujarat!  inscription  dated  Samwat 
1756.    It  is  to  the  W.  of  the  Bandar,  at 
which  about  400  men  are  employed. 
Materials   are   made    there   for   the 
breakwater,  which  is  1250  ft.  long. 
A  brick  of  cement  breaks  at  a  strain 
of  700  lbs.,  whereas   in    England   it 
breaks  at  a  strain  of  lOGO  lbs.    The 
Lighthouse  is  not  far  to  the  N.  of  this, 
at  i  a  m.  from  the  sea.    It  is  built  on 
a  bastion  of  the  town  wall,  which  is 
41  ft.  high,  and  the  lighthouse  itself 
is  45  ft.  high.    The  height  therefore 
is  86  ft.  6,  to  which  must  be  added  the 
lanthom  10  ft.  high,  so  that  the  total 
height  is  96  ft.  6.    On  his  return  the 
traveller  may  visit  the  shrine  of  SheUi 
Mnl^ammad  Ibrahim,  which  is  ^  a  m. 
to  the  N.W.  of  the  T.B.    This  saint 
came  from  Thath^  in  Sindh  about  a 
century  ago.    In  the  enclosure  are  2 
fine  trees  and  a  well  of  water.    The 
tomb  itself  is  in  a  low  building,  and 
is    surrounded  by  a  wooden  screen, 
but    there   is  a  neat  mosque  with  3 
arches   in   the   facade,  and  a  dome 
about  30  ft.  high.    8.  of  it  is  the  tomb 
of  one  Abii  Miydn,  a  saint,  who  died 
15    years  ago.    These   are  the  chief 
places  of  Muslim  worship  at  Mdndavl. 
Bhuj,  the  capital  of  Kachh,  is  40  m. 
to  the  N.E.  of  Mondavi,  and  the  stages 
are  as  follows : 

1.  Asimlya. 

2.  Dhundl 

3.  Meghpiir 

4.  Bhiu  . 


The  road  is  very  dusty,  and  but  little 
shaded.    It  passes  through  a  flat  coun- 


• 

• 

12  miles. 

•  • 

•  • 

• 
• 
• 

6    » 

6    „ 

18    „ 

TotAl  , 

• 

40  miles. 

try  as  far  as  Meghpiir,  when  low  hills 
hegm.  The  city  of  Bhuj,  which  has  a 
population  of  20,000,  and  is  the  capital 
of  a  country  with,  including  the  Grand 
Ran,  15,500  sq.  m.,  and  about  500,000 
inhabitants,  1b  surrounded  by  a  good 
wall,  20  ft.  high,  with  5  gates,  which  aje 
here  called  Ndku»  The  gate  on  the  S.W. 
is  the  Mahddev,  The  P&twddi,  "  plat- 
form garden,"  is  on  the  W. ;  the  Sarpaf 
on  the  N.  j  the  Bkid  on  the  N.E. ;  the 
Wdndya  wad,  "shop-keepers'  mar- 
ket," on  the  S.E.  The  road  which 
leads  from  the  Polit. -Agent's  house  to 
the  W.  gate  of  the  city,  has  a  small 
turret  at  either  end,  with  this  in- 
scription : 

The  Madam  Sahibs' 

Boad, 

so  named  by 

H.H.  Rio  PTagnu4ji, 

in  Memoiy  of 

ANNE, 

loved  wife  of  Colonel  S.  C.  Law, 

Political  Agent  in  Kachh. 

who  projected  this  roaa, 

A.D.  30th  July,  1871. 

Permission  should  be  obtained  to 
visit  the  new  palace  of  the  RAo,  which 
is  a  very  handsome  building,  and  not 
far  from  the  gate  next  the  Law  Boad. 
The  palace  lies  E.  and  W.,  and  has  a 
tower  150  ft.  high  at  the  E.  end,  and 
the  ladies'  apartments  on  the  W.  side. 
It  has  three  stories.  The  ground  floor 
contains  various  offices.  The  largest 
room  is  on  the  S.  side,  and  measures 
80  ft.  X  40  ft.,  divided  into  two  by  6 
open  arches.  The  ascent  to  the  Ist 
floor  is  by  a  staircase,  which  is  un- 
finished, but  is  to  be  of  white  marble, 
and  to  have  4  fiights  of  7  +  10+9  +  8 
steps,  total  34.  These  lead  to  a  gal- 
lery paved  with  white  and  black 
marble,  14  ft  9  in.  broad ;  open  at 
one  side,  with  the  inner  wall  painted 
in  fresco,  and  6  scalloped  arches. 
Within  is  the  audience-room,  80  ft. 
long,  40  ft.  broad,  and  45  ft.  high.  At 
25  ft.  from  the  floor  is  a  gallery,  rest- 
ing on  gilt  brackets  supported  by 
figures.  The  furniture  is  gilt^  with 
sUk  cushions.  At  the  E.  end  is  a  f  nU- 
length  portrait  ot  the  late  lUo  PriHg- 
malji.  There  are  3  large  and  8  small 
chandeliers.  The  walls  and  ceiling 
are  painted  with  fancy  figures.  Above 

B  B  2 


372 


Bovte  34. — Dwdrka  to  Mdndd^  and  Bhuj,        Sect.  H. 


the  gallery  are  double  wiudows  on  the 
N.  and  S.  sides,  and  single  on  the  E. 
and  W.  In  the  outer  gallery  three 
sorts  of  marbles  are  used,  taken  from 
Kachh  quarries ;  black  marble  from 
Habd,  yellowish  white  from  Khdwada, 
and  streaked  from  Dewaliya.  The 
clock  in  the  great  tower  cost  £600, 
and  has  a  fine  tone.  It  was  made  by 
Bmith  &  Sons,  of  Clerkenwell.  There 
are  4  smaller  towers  87J  ft.  high. 
Adjoining  the  clock  tower  to  the  S.  is 
a  chapel,  in  which  H.H.  the  RAo  wor- 
ships. On  the  2nd  floor,  on  the  N. 
side,  is  the  library,  in  which  is  some 
handsome  blackwood  furniture,  made 
by  Frdmjl  Ndthu,  who  resides  in 
Bhuj.  On  the  same  floor  are  the  ladies' 
apartments.  Their  drawing  -  room, 
30  X  24  ft.,  is  very  prettily  decorated. 
The  old  palace  is  in  the  same  inclo- 
sure  with  the  new,  and  H.H.  the  Rdo 
still  resides  there.  The  facade  is  beau- 
tifully carved,  but  the  internal  ar- 
rangements are  far  inferior  to  those  of 
the  new  building.  There  is  a  very 
handsome  JShish  Mali^all,  or  Chamber 
of  Mirrors,  in  which  the  RAo  Lakpatji 
used  to  sleep.  It  is  intensely  hot,  and 
there  is  no  ventilation.  The  swords, 
shields,  and  other  arms  of  the  RAos 
are  richly  ornamented  with  jewels, 
and  are  very  valuable.  This  palace  is 
said  to  have  been  built  by  one  Rdm 
Sing,  who  was  taken  prisoner  by  the 
Dutch  as  a  pirate,  and  carried  to 
Holland,  where  he  travelled,  and 
brought  back  much  information  to 
Kachh.  The  RAo's  stables  are  worth 
visiting,  as  there  are  260  horses, 
among  which  are  some  fine  specimens 
of  the  Kdthiawdd  breed.  There  is 
also  a  wild  ass  from  the  Ran  of  £achh. 
It  is  10  hands  high,  and  is  quite 
young.  There  is  also  a  black  lemur 
from  Africa.  In  the  S.W.  comer  of 
the  city  is  a  mosque,  built  in  176.^  on 
the  model  of  the  great  mosque  at 
Makka.  On  the  rt.  of  it  are  2  small 
tombs,  7  ft.  sq.  and  10  ft.  high  to  the 
place  whence  the  cupola  springs.  The 
I  cupolas  are  covered  with  coloured  tiles 
1  from  Sindh.  The  one  in  front  is  the 
I  tomb  of  Mul;iammad  Fandh,  a  J^usain 
'  Haiyid,  who  came  from  Dilll  a  century 
ago.    The  other  is  that  of  Rdl  Raid- 


j  han,  who  was  a  Rajpiit  by  birth,  but 
adopted  the  Muslim  faith.  After  his 
death  there  was  a  dispute  between  the 
Muslims  and  the  Hindi\s  as  to  how  he 
was  to  be  buried.  It  was  settled  by 
giving  his  head  to  the  Muslims  and 
burning  his  body.  His  head  is  buried 
in  his  tomb  here. 

The  Chattris  or  Cenotaphs  of  the 
Rdo's  ancestors  should  be  visited. 
They  contain  the  ashes  of  the  bodies 
after  they  have  been  burned.  They 
are  grouped  together  to  the  S.W.  of 
the  city,  and  are  not  far  from  a  pretty 
garden  called  the  Sard  Bdgh,  and  the 
Race-course.  No.  1.  facing  the  E.,  is 
that  of  the  late  RAo  Prdgmaljl.  This 
cenotaph  is  a  white  marble  Mandir  or 
pavilion,  open  at  the  sides  and  with 
4  scalloped  arches.  It  stands  on  a 
slight  eminence,  and  is  ascended  to  by 
a  flight  of  22  steps  of  Khdwada  and 
Habd  marble.  At  the  top  a  Falea 
stone  coloured  red  has  been  set  up. 
No.  2  is  a  small  pavilion  to  BAo 
Desaljl.  No,  3  is  that  of  Rao  Bhar- 
malji,  father  of  Desaljl.  No.  4  is  that 
of  4  Rajpiit  ladies.  No.  6  is  the 
cenotaph  of  a  Solankhl  R&jpiit.  No.  6 
is  the  Chattrl  of  RAo  Lakhpatji.  On 
either  side  of  the  door  is  the  figure  of 
a  ChobdAr,  or  attendant  beaming  a 
mace,  in  the  ancient  dress,  a  long  robe 
belted  round  the  body.  The  roof  is 
supported  by  12  pillars,  and  there 
are  figures  of  Apsaras  or  dancing 
nymphs  and  musicians  placed  in  a 
circle.  A  Pdlea  stone  faces  the  E. 
door.  This  is  the  largest  Chattrl  of 
all,  and  the  periphery  is  116  ft.  10  in. 
There  are  altogether  84  pillars.  It 
was  built  in  1761.  The  walls  are 
niuch  rent  by  the  earthquake  of  1829. 
No.  7  is  the  Chattri  of  Motl  BAl, 
daughter  of  Rao  Lakhpatji.  No.  8 
is  that  of  Mdn  Singjl,  elder  brother  of 
Bharmalji.  No.  9  is  that  of  aChdran 
or  Bard.  It  has  a  Pdlea.  No.  10  is 
the  Chattri  of  a  PramAr  RAjpiit.  To 
the  N.  is  a  small  temple  to  Mahadeo. 
No.  11  is  the  Chattri  of  R^o  Pragmaljl 
built  in  1712,  and  much  ruined.  No. 
12  is  that  of  Bharmalji  the  1st,  who 
died  in  1632— Samwat  1688  Mdgh, 
mdh.  No.  13  is  the  Chattrl  of  Rupali 
Bdl,  wife  of  Desaljl.    Nos.  14  to  18 


Sect  II. 


Jioiite  35. — Mdndavi  to  Nowanagar, 


373 


are  Chattrls  of  RAjpiit  servants  of  the 
State.  No.  19  is  that  of  the  wife  of  a 
RAo,  name  now  unknown.  No.  20  is 
that  of  RAo  Khengarjl  the  Ist.  No. 
21  is  that  of  a  Jain  Priest.  The  name 
of  the  present  curator  is  Sejglr  Gusain, 
from  whom,  perhaps,  some  further 
particulars  might  be  obtained. 

The  English  Cemetery  is  |  m.  from 
the  city,  and  the  cantonment  is  1  m.  E. 
of  that.     The  Cemetery  is  enclosed 
with  a  wall  12  ft.  high,  and  there  are 
Rome  fine  large  trees  but  no  water,  so 
that  the  trees  that  have  been  planted 
lately  are  withering  away.     It  is  to  Ixi 
regretted  that  application  is  not  made 
to  H.  H.  the  Rdo  for  a  well,  when  no 
doubt  orders  would  be  issued  to  the 
able  Chief  Engineer,  Mr.  Jaganndth, 
to  have  one  dug.    There  are  32  tombs 
with    epitaphs,    but    none    of    veiy 
distinguished  persons.    One  to  W.  11. 
Deacon,  Civil  Surgeon  in  Kachh,  who 
died  10th  September,  1839,  was  erected 
by  RAo  Desalji,  "as  a  token  of  his 
regard  and  esteem."    The  tablet  to 
Lieut.  E.  Holme  of  the  8th  King's 
Royal  Irish  Hussars,  dated  4th  Feb- 
ruary, 1858,  states  that  he  was  killed 
by  the  accidental  dischai'ge  of  his  gun. 
He  was  in  his  19th  year.   St.  Andrew's 
Church  is  not  far  from  the  Cemetery. 
It  is  suiTounded.by  line  trees,  and  is 
71  ft.  8  in.  from  E.  to  W.,  22  ft.  3  in. 
from  N.  to  S.    There  are  seats  for  100 
persons.    It  was  consecrated  on  Advent 
Sunday,    Dec.   1st,  1872.     The    only 
tablet  is  a  brass  on  the  right-hand  wall,  : 
inscribed. 

In  Memoriam 

ANNIE, 

loved  Wife  of 

Lt.-Colonel  8.  C.  Law, 

departed  Slst  July, 

1871. 

She  was  a  crown 

to  her  husband. 

The  same  inscription  is  on  her  tomb 
adjoining  the  E.  side  of  the  church. 
This  was  the  lady  in  memory  of  whom 
H.  H.  R^o  Prdgmiilji  made  the  road 
from  the  Political  Agent's  house  to  the 
city  gate.  The  rac  js  take  place  in  the 
beginning  of  March,  when  H.  H.  the 
Rdo  goes  in  state  with  all  his  courtiers. 
The  sight  is  very  pretty.  The  towers 
of  the  Palace  and  the  Hill  of  Bhujlyd  to 


the  N.  a  mile  or  two  beyond  the  city, 
crowned  with  an  old  fort,  look  well. 
About  10,000  people  assemble. 


ROUTE    35. 

mAndavi  to  nowanagae. 

At  present  there  is  some  little  diffi- 
culty in  getting  to  Katliiaw&d  from 
Kachh.  The  shortest  way  would  be 
to  cross  fi'om  Jtiria  Bandar  to  No- 
wanagar, and  were  the  road  a  good  one 
and  there  were  at  Juria  a  T.  B.  with  a 
messman,  and  a  steam  launch  to  cross 
the  Gulf  of  Kachh,  no  one  would 
think  of  going  any  other  way.  In  the 
absence  of  these  advantages  the  pas- 
sage must  be  made  from  Mdndavi, 
where  the  advent  of  steamers  is  un- 
certain, and  where  when  they  do  come 
they  lie  out  a  long  way,  so  that  em- 
barking in  them  is  a  very  disagreeable 
affair.  H.H.  the  Jdm  of  Nowanagar 
would,  however,  no  doubt,  with  that 
courtesy  for  which  he  is  celebrated, 
send  a  steam  yacht  for  any  traveller 
specially  recommended  to  him.  Other- 
wise the  traveller  may  be  asked  80  to 
1.00  Rs.  for  a  passage  of  only  48  m. 

On  the  return  journey  from  Bhuj  there 
is  shade  for  3  m.  from  trees  planted  on 
either  side  of  the  road.  At  the  5th  m. 
is  the  Tank  of  Wdld.  Khds  with  a  fine 
clump  of  trees,  where  some  shooting 
might  be  got.  On  leaving  Mdndavi 
in  a  native  boat  or  yacht,  the  course 
for  the  first  24  ni.  is  due  E.  along  the 
shore  to  M4dra,  which  is  half  way.  The 
water  is  very  shallow  in  places,  and 
when  the  high  tide  comes  in,  breakers 
are  seen  around  the  vessel,  so  tliat  local 
knowledge  and  skilful  steering  arc 
required.  Whales  and  other  large  G.kh. 
ai'o  not  unfrequcntly  met  with,  and  a 


374 


RotUe  35. — Mdndavi  to  Nowanagar. 


Sect.  II. 


whale  60  ft.  long  was  cast  ashore  at 
pwdrka  last  year.  At  M4(lra  the  course 
is  shaped  S.  to  the  port  of  Kowanagar, 
the  passage  up  which  must  be  made 
in  the  daytime,  as  there  are  rocks  be- 
fore the  creek,  which  leads  up  to  the 
harbour,  is  entered.  An  island  lies  to 
the  N.  W.  of  the  entrance,  and  the  shore 
in  that  direction  stretches  out  8  m. 
into  the  Gulf  of  Eachh.  As  soon  as 
one  arrives  within  that  distance  the 
vessel  is  secure  from  storms  and  high 
seas.  The  rocks  are  marked  by  the 
trunks  of  cocoa  trees  40  ft.  high.  To 
the  E.  of  the  deep  bay  so  formed  is  seen 
the  lighthouse,  a  square  building  with 
a  lantern  at  the  top.  The  fort  of  No- 
wanagar  or  Kagar,  as  it  is  popularly 
called,  is  seen  in  that  direction.  At 
the  W.  entrance  of  the  bay  begins  a 
winding  creek  6  m.  long,  which  ap- 
pears to  be  likely  to  increase  rather 
than  lessen  the  distance  from  the  city, 
but  which  really  bends  towards  it. 
The  shores  of  this  creek  are  low  and 
densely  covered  with  mangrove  trees. 
The  mangrove  is  here  called  Char,  and 
it  is  eaten  by  camels  and  cattle  and  is 
said  to  fatten  them.  Steamers  lie  out 
6J  m.  from  this  creek,  and  passengers 
land  in  boats.  At  the  end  of  the  creek 
there  is  a  Bandar  or  landing  place 
with  a  pier  and  a  long  causeway 
raised  10  ft.  above  the  swampy 
ground.  At  about  Jam.  the  house 
of  Mr.  MacClelland,  engineer  to  H.  H. 
the  JAm,  is  reached.  The  Fort  lies 
2J  m.  to  the  E.  Entering  the  gate, 
the  traveller  will  turn  to  the  r.,  and 
after  J  m.  come  to  a  large  tank, 
made  by  the  first  JAm  when  he  founded 
Nowanagar.  It  touches  the  wall  of  the 
city,  and  inside  it  covers  100  acres  and 
as  much  outside  ;  but  during  the  rains 
the  outside  part  extends  to  300  acres. 
Here,  just  at  the  W.  end  of  the  tank,  is 
a  small  house  called  the  LiU  BanglA. 
It  has  an  upper  room  adorned  with 
mirrors.  From  this  an  embankment 
extends  through  the  water  760  ft.  to 
the  I/dkhotdf  a  large  mansion  in  which 
the  JAm  lodges  guests  of  distinction. 
The  embankment  or  wall  which  leads 
to  it  is  about  6  ft.  broad,  and  is 
in  March  16  ft.  above  the  water, 
which  is  here  15  ft,  deep.    There  are 


2  masonry  wells  in  the  tank,  on  the 
inner  side  of  the  wall,  whicli  were 
constructed  for  use  when  the  water 
sank  low  in  the  hot  weather.  But 
Mr.  MacCleUand  has  brought  an  aque- 
duct to  the  tank  from  the  Bangmatl 
river,  and  the  water  of  the  tank  sinks 
but  little.  At  800  ft.  beyond  -the 
LAkhotA  is  a  3rd  building,  called  the 
Eothi,  which  is  very  lofty.  After 
entering  the  LAkhota  you  ascend  29 
steps  to  a  court,  where  there  are  12 
old  cannon  used  for  saluting.  To  the 
r.  is  a  small  room  used  by  travellers. 
It  has  a  painted  ceiling  representing 
R4o  EhangAr  killing  a  Uon,  which  has 
seized  one  of  his  aUendants.  On  the 
2nd  cannon  to  the  r.  is  inscribed: 
"  The  Government  of  H.  H.  the  MahA- 
rdjA  Sindia  BahAdur,  a  State  gun — 
Mlrat."  The  weight  of  the  charge  is 
also  marked  on  the  gun.  On  the  4th 
gun  is  a  crown,  and  underneath,  III. 
G.R.  The  3rd  and  5th  guns  are 
marked  24  and  23  cwt.,  and  the  3rd 
is  marked  1796,  W.C.  The  view  from 
the  bastion  here  is  extensive.  To  the 
r.  of  the  3rd  gun  the  SipAhls'  Unes  are 
seen,  and  beyond  them  in  the  far  dis- 
tance, at  more  than  20  m.,  is  the  Hill 
of  Gopad.  A  little  further  are  the 
mountains  of  Bardah, — wild  hills,  in 
which  were  many  lions,  till  the  troops 
in  pursuit  of  rebels  and  outlaws  kept 
up  such  incessant  firing  that  the  wild 
beasts  decamped,  and  retired  into  the 
forest  of  Giro  dr.  The  walls  of  the 
LAkho^A  ai'e  ornamented  with  carvings 
of  the  Keshurl  lion.  The  Kothi  is  a 
circular  tower  rising  above  the  city 
walls  and  8  stories  high,  the  7th 
looking  like  a  pedestal  to  the  8th,  and 
sloping  up  to  it.  The  8th  is  shaped 
like  a  lanthom,  and  commands  fine 
views  on  all  sides.  There  are  5  in- 
scriptions, of  which  the  lowest  is  in 
the  7th  story  on  a  black  tablet,  on 
the  left  hand  as  you  enter. 

From  the  Kothi  the  return  will  be 
through  a  gate  begun  by  the  JAm*s 
father,  and  which  is  now  being  finished 
by  Mr.  MacClelland,  under  the  orders  of 
H.  H.  the  JAm.  The  High  School  is  to 
be  located  in  the  rooms  oyer  this  gate- 
way, which  will  be  a  very  handsome 
building.    The  JAm's  palace  is  a  re- 


Sect.  11. 


JRoiUe  35. — Ncnmnagar, 


375 


markably  beautiful  building.  It  stands 
in  the  centre  of  the  city,  and  was  built 
by  JAm  Bibarji  in  Samwat  1920  = 
A.D.  1864.  The  facade  was  executed 
by  Bhoropati,  a  builder  of  Nowanagar, 
and  the  interior  by  Gachri,  also  of 
Nagar.  The  facade  is  40  ft.  high,  and 
has  at  each  end  a  tower,  which  rises 
15  ft.  higher.  It  is  192  ft.  long  frofti 
N.W.  to  S.E.  The  tower  at  the  S.E. 
has  a  white  marble  balcony,  or  GoJih^ 
which  differs  from  a  JdroTih&y  in  that 
one  can  walk  along  inside  it  to  any 
ix)int,  and  it  is  therefore  adapted  for 
seeing  a  procession.  The  J&rokha  is  a 
window  at  which  one  may  sit  and 
enjoy  the  cool  air.  Both  project  from 
the  main  wall,  and  are  adorned  with 
carving.  In  the  centre  of  the  facade 
are  4  richly  carved  Gokhs  or  balconies, 
supported  by  figures  here  called  CoU' 
sals,  &nd  j)atis  or  brackets.  These 
Gokhs  belong  to  the  Darb&r  room, 
here  called  A'mi  Kfids,  which  is  82  ft. 
8  in.  long  from  E.  to  W.,  and  32  ft.  11 
in.  broad  from  N.  to  S.,  but.  only  16  ft. 
high.  It  is  lighted  by  19  chandeliers 
and  150  smaller  lights.  In  the  N.E. 
part  of  the  palace,  on  the  ground  floor, 
is  the  Mint,  where  the  Koris  are 
coined,  of  which  4  go  to  a  rupee. 
They  are  silver.  They  are  stamped 
with  a  hammer,  and  moulded  in  the 
primitive  fashion.  In  the  anteroom 
to  the  Treasury  are  portraits  of  the 
Jdms  facing  the  door.  To  the  right 
of  them  is  a  picture  in  the  Hogarth 
style,  of  the  Rdjpiits  of  the  Gohel  tribe, 
drinking  Kusumbha.  This  beverage 
consists  of  opium  steeped  in  water. 
One  man  is  so  intoxicated  that  a  dog  is 
running  away  with  his  turban  with- 
out his  making  any  effort  to  retain  it. 
Another  is  plying  a  beggar  with  the 
drink.  On  the  left  is  Ranmaljl,  an 
ancestor  of  the  J4m,  killing  a  large 
lion  at  Chhdttar,  a  village  14  m.  dis- 
tant from  the  Hill  of  Gopad,and  25  m. 
8.  of  Jiindgadh.  The  lion  has  one  man 
under  his  paws,  and  others  have  been 
thrown  by  their  horses,  which  are 
galloping  off.  This  is  said  to  have 
taken  place  in  1863.  Beyond  this 
room  is  the  Armoury,  which  opens  into 
the  Jewel  Office.  Among  the  valu- 
ables is  a  fine  sword,  once  belonging 


to  the  Amirs  of  Sindh.  It  is  in- 
scribedy  H.  H.  Mir  Muhammad  KhAn 
Na^ir  Kh&n  T^pur.  There  is  also 
a  sword  with  a  miniature  of  Lord 
Lytton,  presented  to  the  Jdm  by  his 
lordship.  A  3rd  sword,  given  by  Sir 
S.  Fitzgerald,  is  a  really  formidable 
weapon.  There  ai'e  many  valuable 
guns  with  gilt  barrels,  and  daggers  of 
every  description.  There  are  2  large 
gold  vessels  worth  Us.  20,000,  and  a 
gold  salver  and  4  bowls  of  gold  worth 
Rs.  10,000  more.  There  are  also  neck- 
laces of  diamonds  and  emeralds, 
jewelled  trappings  for  horses, 
called  in  India  HaUir,  JHc^d,  Dumielu, 
Sdkalf  Mor^Ot  and  Kotiya.  There  is 
also  a  golden  throne,  and  a  seat  for 
riding  on  an  elephant  worth  Rs.  15,000. 
Altogether  these  precious  things  are 
worth  from  £100,000  to  £200,000. 
The  Jdm  has  many  fine  horses,  of  the 
Kdthi  breed,  which  is  distinguished 
by  twisted  ears,  which  turn  inward 
so  as  to  meet.  Among  the  curiosities 
is  a  goat  which  is  unmistakeably  of 
both  sexes. 

At  the  court  of  the  JAm  the  old  style 
of  Rdjpiit  living  may  be  seen  in  per- 
fection. H.H.  is  famed  for  his  liberal- 
ity and  courtesy.  He  has  been  a 
gallant  sportsman,  and  has  killed  many 
lions,  tigers  and  panthers.  Lions  now 
are  seldom  or  never  found  in  his  ter- 
ritories, but  in  his  younger  days  they 
were  probably  numerous.  The  tiger 
is  said  not  to  exist  in  K&thiawdd,  but 
formerly  in  the  N.  part  it  seems  to  have 
been  found.  H.H.  is  fond  of  exhibiting 
wrestling  matches  and  buffalo  fights. 
The  chief  wrestler  is  said  to  have  no 
match  in  the  W.  of  India.  There  is  an 
exceedingly  clever  comic  actor  and  a 
troupe  of  NAch  girls,  one  of  whom, 
Qusain  Bakliah.  is  very  celebrated. 
She  was  famous  for  her  beauty,  and, 
though  now  she  has  a  son  20  years 
old,  is  still  very  handsome.  H.H. 
maintains  a  good  band,  which  is  said 
to  cost  £10,(W0  a  year,  and  he  gives 
dinners  in  the  European  fashion,  at 
which  he  sits,  but  at  a  table  apart 
from  his  English  guests.  The  health 
of  H.M,  the  Queen  is  never  forgotten. 


376 


Boute  36. — Nowanagar  to  Shatrunjay. 


Sect.  IL 


ROUTE   36. 

NOWANAGAB  TO  BAJKOT,  80N0ADH, 
PALITANA,  AND  SH ATBUKJAY.  * 

The  stages  on  this  Boute  are  the 
following  : — 


^i 

Prom 

To 

RsaCARKS. 

Nowaoa- 

Kliaw48 

6 

Half  way  is  the  fine 

garor 
Jamuagar 

ki 

village  of  Barangi, 

Badrl 

and   Just   outside 

Nagar  to  the  left 

Khawds 

Palla     . 

12 

are  the  chattris  of 

klBadrf 

the  Jim's  ancestors. 

Palla   .    . 

Dharol . 

6 

This  is  a  vailed 
town.    The  T.R  is 

Dharol 

Lewra  . 

6 

beyond  a  broad 
clear  stream. 

Lewri.    . 

Pardom- 

9 

X  Dondi  or  Do  Nadi 

ya 

to  the  T.  B. 

Pardomya 

WAvri.. 

t 

R&jko(  territory  be- 

WAvri.   . 

RiUJkot. 

gins. 

Total. 

l^ 

The  road  is  bad  near  Dharol,  and 
the  deep  sand  at  the  river  is  so  heavy 
that  5  men  are  required  to  help  the 
horses  through  it  and  up  the  bank. 
At  WAvrl  deer  are  numerous,  and  so 
tame  that  they  will  run  beside  a 
carriage  for  some  distance. 

The  stages  from  R^jko^  to  Songadh 
are  as  follows : 


.d.- 

From 

To 

.  4> 

IS 

Remarks. 

mjkot 

Sard&r 

T.B.  is  dirty,  small. 

and  shabby. 

Rardar 

A'thkot   . 

16 

T.B.  is  dirty,  small, 
and  shabby. 

'  Afhkot 

BAbra 

14 

T.B.  new,  spacious, 
comfortable,    on 

the  r.  of  road. 

BAbra  . 

Ddssa  .    . 

14 

T.B.  indifferent. 

D&ssa    . 

Savauri   . 

6 

T.B.  clean  ^  good. 

Panauri 

Rangoli    . 

12 

Sanauri 

Songa4h  . 

10 

Total    . 

90 

The  road  passes  the  Aji  r.  by  the 
K.  i  Hind  bridge  to  the  E.  of  RAjkot, 
and  then  turns  S.  through  a  rather 
barren  country^  with  low  hills  sprinkled 


with  patches  of  milk-bush,  and 
covered  with  long  brown  grass.  At 
3  J  m.  pass  the  fine  village  of  Eor^d 
on  the  r.,  and  at  10  m.  pass  on  the  1. 
the  village  of  KArumb^,  where  there 
ought  to  be  a  relay  of  horses  or  bul- 
locks. SardAr  is  a  walled  town.  The 
traveller  should  endeavour  to  push  on, 
as  the  T.B.  is  so  bad.  The  same  may 
be  said  of  Athkot.  At  BAbra  it  will 
be  convenient  to  halt  and  pass  the 
night,  as  the  banglA  is  one  of  the  best  in 
India.  The  rooms  are  large  and  lofty, 
and  a  wide  and  noble  verandah  keeps 
them  cool.  The  dining-room  is  in 
the  centre  of  the  building.  The  town 
is  walled.  Some  shooting  could  pro- 
bably be  got.  The  first  few  m.  from 
BAbra  the  road  is  bad,  with  deep  de- 
scents and  watercourses.  It  is  thronged 
with  carts  carrying  cotton,  and  the 
carmen  make  a  point  of  being  in  the 
centre  of  the  road  or  on  the  wrong 
side,  which  causes  much  delay.  Many 
peacocks  are  seen  near  the  villages, 
but  they  cannot  be  shot  without  causing 
much  ill-feeling.  Horses  should  be 
changed  at  Rangoli,  but  there  is  no 
banglA.  An  Assistant  Political  Agent 
resides  at  Songadh,  and  if  the  traveller 
be  desirous  of  seeing  the  temples  at 
Shatrunjay,  he  should,  if  possible, 
obtain  an  introduction  to  him  iu 
order  that  he  may  procure  a  letter  to 
the  T^Akor  of  PAlitana,  in  whose 
territory  Shatrunjay  is.  The  railroad 
passes  a  little  to  the  W.  of  Songadh, 
and  about  7  m.  to  the  W.  of  it  is  Kihor, 
one  of  the  oldest  BAjpiit  towns.  It  is 
in  the  hills,  and  there  one  of  the  officers 
attached  to  the  Agency  killed  2  fine 
panthers  this  year.  The  distance  from 
Songadh  to  PAlitAna  is  14  m.  N.E.  The 
village  of  Sdrad,  half-way,  is  where 
horses  are  changed.  The  road  is  bad 
and  terribly  dusty,  passing  between 
hills  from  200  to  400  ft.  high.  The 
19th  milestone  from  Bhaunagar  is  close 
to  the  Assistant  Political  Agent's  house 
at  Songadh ;  the  26th  is  just  beyond 
Sdrad.  About  1  m.  beyond  SArad  the 
road  passes  into  a  vast  plain,  with  the 
mountain  of  Shatrunjay  rising  grandly 
on  the  horizon  to  the  N.E.  On  arriv- 
ing at  FAlitAna,  should  the  traveller 
have  an  introduction  to  the  ThAkor  he 


Sect.  II. 


R(yide  S6,^ShcUrunjai/, 


377 


will  be  perhaps  allowed  to  take  up 
his  quarters  at  a  fine  mansion  which 
that  chief  has  on  the  outskirts  of  the 
town,  or  if  that  should  be  occupiedi 
a  tent  will  be  pitched  for  him  under 
some  fine  trees  ^  m.  nearer  the  moun- 
tain of  Shatrunjay.  The  ascent  of 
the  mountain  should  be  commenced 
about  5  A.M.,  as  there  are  no  trees, 
and  the  heat  is  very  great.  The  usual 
mode  of  ascent  is  in  a  manohU,  which 
is  a  sort  of  chair  with  a  cushion  at 
the  back,  and  a  cloth  in  &ont  of  it, 
suspended  in  such  a  way  that  the  feet 
may  rest  on  it.  The  ascent  commences 
very  abruptly  at  a  place  marked  by  2 
figures  of  elephants,  one  on  either 
side  of  the  road.  Here  steps  begin, 
and  on  either  side  are  stone  pavilions 
for  the  pilgrims  to  rest  in.  There  are 
also  rows  of  small  mandirs,  one  for 
each  of  the  84  Tirthankars,  A  paved 
way  on  the  W.  of  the  mountain  leads 
lip  to  its  crest,  a  distance  of  2  to  3  m. 
This  paved  way  is  divided  into  nume- 
rous steep  ascents  and  level  crossings, 
along  which  there  is  an  almost  un- 
broken stream  of  pilgrims,  the  women 
of  all  ages,  from  7  to  70,  dressed  in 
"bright  red  and  yellow  garments,  and 
as  it  were  painting  the  mountain  with 
one  long  parti-coloured  streak.  Some 
of  the  pilgrims  are  so  old  and  feeble 
that  they  plod  on  slowly,  supported 
by  staves  ;  others,  young  and  active, 
skip  along  the  ascent  with  the  greatest 
ease.  The  mountain  and  the  temples 
are  regarded  as  so  sacred  that  they 
must  not  be  polluted  in  any  way. 
Consequently  the  pilgrims  neither  eat 
nor  drink  until  they  have  descended, 
which  they  always  do  before  4  P.M. 
There  are  numerous  mandirs  of  a  glit- 
tering white,  where  the  pilgrims  may 
rest,  but  after  the  sun  has  risen  a  few 
hours,  the  buildings  become  heated 
through.  There  is  not  a  well  on  the 
mountain,  nor  any  water  but  what  is 
collected  from  the  rain  in  reservoirs, 
where  it  is  allowable  to  bathe,  but 
not  to  drink.  At  about  1300  ft.  high 
is  the  small  temple  of  Hingldj,  a 
name  of  Durg&,  and  here  the  ascent 
is  almost  perpendicular.  The  fane  is 
on  the  r.  as  you  descend,  and  the 
image  is  that  of  a  savage  hag  dressed 


in  gold  and  red.  The  people  here, 
even  the  most  learned  of  them,  do  not 
know  what  Hingldj  means,  and  are 
quite  unaware  that  the  most  famous 
temple  to  this  deity  is  near  Sonmiydni 
in  the  S.W.  comer  of  Sindh.  In  all 
6  tanks  are  passed,  but  in  the  dry 
weather  only  the  3  highest  have  water, 
and  that  of  the  most  repulsive  appear- 
ance. The  tank  called  Sdl4  Eund  is 
about  1550  ft.  above  sea  level,  and  at 
this  point  is  seen  the  not  formidable 
scarp  around  and  above  which  the 
temples  are  clustered.  F^m  the  plain 
these  are  not  visible,  but  only  a  sort  of 
grove  with  a  solitary  white  building  in 
the  centre.  This  crest  of  the  mountain, 
or  highest  platform,  is  reached  at  a 
bifurcation  of  the  road,  one  branch 
circling  N.,  and  the  other  S.,  the 
latter  being  not  so  steep  as  the  other. 
Supposing  the  traveller  to  have  started 
about  5.15  A.M.,  he  will  reach  about  7 
a  closed  door,  which  is  about  2,000  ft. 
above  sea  level.  On  application  this 
door  will  be  unlocked,  and  the  traveller 
will  find  himself  in  that  quarter  of  the 
building  which  is  called  the  Ghad- 
tarwis  Thuk.  There  is  an  open  pas- 
sage to  the  rt.  of  the  door,  but  it  is 
better  to  go  through  the  door.  On 
the  wall  are  painted  figures  of  soldiers 
in  blue  dresses.  This  gate  is  called 
the  R4m  Pol,  and  is  one  of  the  E. 
gates.  Othera  in  this  quarter  are  the 
Tiger,  Elephant,  and  Gem  ;  the  Gate  of 
the  Motl  Sdni  Thuk,  the  Gate  of  the 
B611  BhAi  Piuk,  the  Gate  of  the 
Khemchand  Modi  Thuk,  the  Gate  of  the 
HemA  Bhdl  Thuk,  &c.  In  all  there  are 
19  gates.  Not  far  from  the  RAm  Pol 
gate  is  a  bangU,  used  by  rich 
merchants  or  travellers  of  distinction. 
There  is  a  tolerable  room,  the  open 
arches  of  which  are  usually  closed 
with  rags.  The  retirado  is  to  the  N.E. 
and  is  reached  by  descending  to  acourt- 
yard,  and  then  again  descending  some 
steps  into  a  2nd  court  below  ground, 
at  the  end  of  which,  on  the  1.,  is  a 
covered  recess.  The  Guide-book 
published  by  Mr.  Burgess  will  be 
found  of  great  use.  But  the  great 
difficulty  is  to  understand  the  group- 
ing of  the  temples,  and  without  a 
map  this  is  almost  impossible.    Un- 


378 


Houte  36. — Nowanagar  to  Shatrunjay, 


Sect.  II. 


f ortunatelj,  the  Thdkor  of  Palitina  is 
at  fead  with  the  Shrdwaks  or  Jains, 
who  are  the  worshippers  at  these 
temples,  and  their  sacred  language  is 
MagadM,  which  is  not  intelligible  to 
anj  one  but  themselves,  so  that  it  is 
no  easy  matter  to  get  a  map  made. 
There  is  one  division  which  must  be 
kept  in  mind,  and  that  is,  that  there 
are  2  ridges,'  a  N.  and  a  S.  ridge,  and 
the  temples  on  each  must  be  visited 
separately.  The  1st  temple  to  visit  is 
the  Motl  Shdh,  to  the  W.  of  the  RAm 
Pol  Gate.  The  image  is  of  white 
marble,  and  represents  Adi  DewrA. 
There  is  this  grand  distinction  between 
BrAhmanical  idols  and  Jain,  that  the 
former  represent  unmistakeable  devils, 
j^u7'e^^m^Z«,features,  if  human,  blazing 
with  fiendish  cruelty  and  hate ; 
monstrous  bodies  with  heads  of  lions, 
hogs,  or  snakes,  adorned  with  skulls, 
cobra  headS  or  other  reptiles  ;  while 
the  Jain  idols  represent  handsome 
youths  with  mild  features.  Moti 
Sh&h  was  a  Bombay  merchant,  who 
died  in  Samwat  1892 = 1835  A.D.  His 
temple  is  like  all  the  rest  here,  in  form 
and  arrangement.  There  is  an  oc- 
tflgonal  room,  and  beyond  it  the 
chamber  in  which  the  idol  is  placed. 
There  is  no  pretence  at  beauty  of 
architecture  or  carving.  The  octagon 
room  is  furnished  with  paltry  English 
mirrors  and  chandeliers.  On  the  rt. 
is  the  sacred  word  Om,intheMagadhl 
character,  and  on  the  1.  Rili,  The 
room  measures  27  ft.  3  from  N.  to 
8.,  and  31  ft.  6  from  E.  to  W.  The 
adytum  is  10  ft.  deep.  On  the  rt.  of 
the  door  is  an  image  of  the  mother  of 
Moti  Shdh,  and  on  the  1.  one  of  Motl 
ShAh  himself,  and  one  of  his  wife.  To 
the  W.  is  the  temple  of  BAlAbhAl,  who 
was  a  merchant  of  Surat,  and  died 
in  1835.  The  image  and  figure  of 
the  elephant  are  of  white  marble. 
The  arches  are  painted  red.  The 
octagon  room  is  26  ft.  2  from  N.  to  S. 
and  28  ft.  6  from  E.  to  W.  After 
seeing  this  temple,  ascend  75  steps  to 
the  W.,  to  a  recess  where  is  a  figure 
of  Adibandhn^th.  The  porch  commands 
a  view  of  the  mountain  of  Hostigiri, 
which  is  to  the  S.W.  The  image  of 
Adibandhndth  is  18  feet,  high,  and 


measures  14  ft.  6  from  knee  to  knee. 
It  is  carved  out  of  the  rock,  and  is 
covered  with  coloured  plaster.  The 
view  over  the  temples  from  this  is 
curious.  On  the  rt  is  the  roof  of  a 
temple  covered  with  short  pillars 
like  those  on  the  roof  of  Dwdrkandth 
Pagoda.  Ascend  now  39  +  10  +  4  steps 
to  the  temple  of  Moti  Premchand  of 
Al^mad&b&d.  On  this  site  stood  the 
temple  of  Samplti  RAjA,  which  was  de- 
stroyed by  'AlAu*d-din.  The  image  is  of 
Adeshwar,  and  is  of  white  marble  with 
glass  eyes.  Adeshwar  is  the  first  of 
the  Tirthankars.  It  measures  77^  ft. 
from  E.  to  W.,  with  an  adytum  10 
ft.  deep  and  24  ft.  6  from  N.  to  S. 
It  is  paved  with  marble  from  Jodhpiir, 
white,  black  and  yellow.  To  theS.E. 
is  the  temple  of  P4rasndth.  On 
the  pedestal  are  carvings  of  cobras 
and  dancing  nymphs  and  elephants. 
On  the  rt.  and  1.  of  the  door  is  a 
handsomely  carved  Qokh  or  pro- 
jecting balcony,  with  a  figure  of 
Pdrasndth' inside.  There  are  6  pillars 
which  measure  6  ft.  to  the  top  of 
their  capitals,  and  3  ft.  thence  to 
the  rool  From  this,  the  next  place 
to  be  visited  will  be  the  Chaumukhi 
temple  to  the  W.,  in  the  Kartaravasi 
^huk.  An  inscription  in  Magadhi 
states  that  in  Samwat  1675 =a.d.  1597, 
in  the  time  of  SultAn  Niiru'ddln 
Jah&ngir,  SiwAl  Vijaya  B&jA,  and 
Sultdns  Khusrau  and  Khurram  on 
Saturday,  Baishdkh  Sudh  13th 
Bavardjd  and  his  family,  of  whom 
were  Shivajl  and  his  wife,  erected 
the  temple  of  the  four-faced  Adindth. 
W.  of  the  temple  is  a  Mandap, 
adorned  with  figures  of  Apsaras.  It 
was  built  in  Samwat  1675  or  A.D. 
1597,  by  Dewrdj  Hirjl  of  RAjnagar 
or  Ahmaddbdd.  In  the  faQade  are 
12  pillars  8  ft.  high  with  scalloped 
arches.  Next  to  it  is  a  similar 
Mandap,  also  built  in  Samwat  1675, 
by  Somji  Khemchand  of  BAjnagar. 
It  is  paved  with  marble,  and 
measures  31  ft.  from  N.  to  S.,  and 
23  ft.  from  E.  to  W.  The  image  is 
of  white  marble,  and  consists  of  4 
crowned  figures  back  to  back,  with 
bracelets  of  silver  gilt.  The  dome  is 
painted  inside,  and  the  spire  or  sMJtr 


Sect  II. 


BotUe  37. — Songadh  to  Bhaunagar. 


379 


is  96  ft.  high.  There  is  a  cmious 
circular  drawing  in  the  centre  of  the 
ceiling  opposite  the  door,  called  Sidh 
chahra,  with  a  figure  of  Tshnfor^  or 
"  the  Deity,"  in  the  centre.  On  thert.  is 
a  Bij4  coming  to  worship,  and  on  the  1. 
Indra  leading  a  piDoession  to  worship 
I'shwar,  Indra's  elephants  hsie  7 
trunks  each.  The  legend  says  that  the 
Bdjd  was  so  alarmed  at  the  sight  that 
he  abandoned  his  kingdom  and  be- 
came an  ascetic.  The  platform  on 
which  this  temple  is  built  measures  80 
ft.  from  B.  to  W.  and  64  ft  from  N.  to  S., 
but  according  to  the  Guide-book  it  is  67 
X  57.  The  next  place  to  visit  will  be 
Adeshwar's  temple  on  the  extreme  E. 
It  is  the  largest  of  all,  and  measures  49) 
ft.  from  E.  to  W.,  and  52  ft.  9  in.  from 
N.  to  S.  The  inner  room  is  octagonal 
and  has  two  stories,  and  is  spoiled,  not 
adorned,  with  English  mirrors  and 
chandeliers.  The  image  is  as  usual  of 
white  marble,  and  represents  Rishab- 
ndth.  The  jewels  of  this  idol  are  said 
to  be  worth  Rs,  100,000,  and  beyond 
the  temple  is  a  room  in  which  are 
Kishabndth's  chariot  and  elephant  of 
silver.  The  temples  are  surrounded  by 
high  walls,  and  look  like  forts  outside. 
The  general  effect  is  very  fine,  and  their 
position  on  the  top  of  a  lofty  mountain 
])roduce6  a  magical  impression;  but 
were  they  in  the  plain,  they  would 
be  hardly  worth  a  visit.  The  7h4kor 
Sursingji  Prat^psingji  is  a  noble  look- 
ing chief,  and  his  2  sons,  who  speak 
English  perfectly,  are  all  fond  of  horses, 
and  the  Th^kor's  stud  is  one  of  the 
best  on  the  W.  side  of  India.  One  of 
the  horses,  a  bay  Arab,  named  '(Anstey,* 
has  won  many  races.  The  view  &om 
the  top  of  the  mountain  is  very  fine, 
and  the  scenery,  though  not  nearly  so 
grand  as  that  at  Gim&r,  is  at  all  events 
remarkable  for  quiet  beauty,  and  the 
heights  can  be  visited  without  risk  or 
inconvenience. 


ROUTE    37. 

SOKOADH  TO  WALLAH  AJID  BHAU- 
NAGAB. 

The  modem  town  of  Wallah  stands 
on  the  site  of  a  city  perhaps  as  old  as 
that  of  Rome.  Coins  and  other  curious 
things  are  dug  up  from  time  [to  time, 
and  as  the  place  is  not  far  from 
Songadh  and  Bhaunagar,  it  would  be 
a  pity  not  to  visit  it.  The  distance 
from  Songadh  to  Wallah  is  12  m.  and 
from  Wallah  to  Bhaunagar  22.  The 
road  to  Wallah  for  about  half  the 
distance  is  little  better  than  a  path 
across  country.  Instead  of  taking  the 
high  road  from  Songadh  to  Bhaunagar, 
one  turns  off  to  the  left  along  the  bank 
of  a  river,  and  then  along  its  bed, 
where  it  is  hard  work  for  horses,  and 
where  bullocks  would  perhaps  stick 
altogether.  At  about  4}  m.  a  small 
village  called  Ndrva  is  reached,  and 
there  one  must  turn  more  to  the  E.  £o 
a  village  called  Odngli,  the  route 
being  over  a  dreary  plain  until  the 
telegraph  poles  and  wires  along  the 
high  road  between  Wallah  and  Bhau- 
nagar come  in  sight.  They  are  on  a 
road  which  is  elevated  10  ft.  or  more 
above  the  plain,  and  on  to  this  road 
the  traveller  must  get.  It  must  be 
confessed  that  this  road  for  6  m.  to 
Wallah  is  in  a  wretchedly  neglected 
state  and  very  unsafe.  It  belongs  to 
the  English  Govt.,  who  seem  to  care 
but  little  for  the  interests  of  the 
Wallah  State,  which  is  small  and  poor, 
but  not  otherwise  deserving  of  neglect. 
The  young  Thdkor  is  at  the  Rdjkum^ 
College,  and  is  a  very  promising  boy, 
and  the  Diw^  or  Minister  is  clever 
and  assiduous,  but  without  the  assis- 
tance of  the  English  Government  the 
road  cannot  be  kept  in  good  order  in 
the  Wallah  territory,  the  Government 
of  which  little  principality  offered 
most  spiritedly  to  pay  half  the  costs  of 
the  repairs,  but  avowed  its  utter  in- 
ability to  do  more,  as  there  are  several 
rather  liirge  bridges  to  be  kept  up. 

Just   Where    the    traveller   comes 


380  Baute  37. — Songadh  to  Wallah  and  Bhaunagar,      Sect,  II. 


upon  the  high  road  there  is  a  range 
of  low  hills,  called  from  the  tallest 
of  them  the  Chumdrdah  hills.  On 
the  top  of  this  hill  is  a  small  tem- 
ple, and  at  its  foot  a  village  of  low- 
caste  people,  chmn^rs  or  tanners.  The 
legend  is  that  the  city  of  Wallah  ex- 
tended as  far  as  this  village  in  the 
old  days.  After  this  the  road  leads 
across  two  bridges  which  are  very  un- 
safe, and  might  fall  at  any  time.  The 
T.  B.  at  Wallah  is  on  the  S.  or  Bhau- 
nagar side  of  the  town.  It  is  very 
small  and  intensely  hot,  but  there  is  a 
pankhd  and  mosquito  curtains.  N. 
of  the  T.B.,  at  }  mile  distance,  is  a  bro- 
ken Nandi,  which  has  been  5  feet  6  long, 
and  W.  of  it  is  a  very  ancient  temple  to 
Siddheshwar,  from  which  it  was  pro- 
bably brought.  All  that  is  left  of  the 
temple  is  a  platform  of  earth,  and  alarge 
Lingam  now  covered  with  a  rude  shed. 
A  few  hundred  yards  to  the  S.  of  this  is 
an  excavation  which  shews  the  founda- 
tion of  a  building,  75  ft.  long  from  N. 
to  S.  and  30  ft.  from  E.  to  W.  The 
rooms  appear  to  have  been  small,  and  it 
was  probably  only  a  tradesman's  house. 
It  is  quite  clear  however  that  the  ground 
here  has  been  raised  several  feet,  so 
that  the  lower  story  of  the  house  was 
in  great  part  covered.  N.  of  this 
excavation,  at  about  |^  m.  distance,  is 
a  tank  400  ft.  long,  and  260  broad, 
which  has  been  faced  with  masonry, 
but  the  tank  itself  has  long  since  been 
filled  up  with  earth,  which  has  only 
recently  been  removed.  Over  the 
N.W.  comer  of  this  tank  the  minaret 
of  Loly&la,  6  m.  off,  is  very  distinctly 
seen.  The  present  town  of  Wallah  is 
a  poor  place,  with  4500  inhabitants. 
This  is  all  that  remains  of  the  famous 
city  of  Vallabhi,  but  copper  grants  of 
land,  and  silver  and  copper  coins,  ai'e 
continually  being  dug  up.  At  8  m. 
from  Wallah,  on  the  road  to  Bhau- 
nagar, horses  are  changed  at  a  small 
village.  4  m.  beyond  this  the  sand  is 
so  deep,  that  men  are  required  to 
assist  in  pushing  the  wheels. 

Bhaunagar  is  a  city  with  35,871 
inhabitants,  and  as  regards  population, 
stands  first  in  the  list  of  towns  in 
E&thiawad.  It  is  the  capital  of  a  State 
which  lies'bctween  21'*  18'  and  22*  18' 


N.  lat.,  and  71*  15'  and  72»  18',  E.  long., 
with  an  area  of  2,784  sq.  m.,  and  a 
population,  according  to  census  of 
1872,  of  428,500  souls.  This  State  is 
divided  into  10  provinces:  1,  Bask- 
rohi ;  2,  Sihor  ;  3,  UmrAlA ;  4,  Gad- 
har4  ;  5,  Bot4d  ;  6,  Lilid  ;  7,  Eundld  ; 
8,  TalijA;  9,  MahuwA;  10,  Bhal ; 
taking  them  from  E.  to  W.  and  N.W., 
and  then  from  W.  to  S.W.  The 
revenue  is  Rs.  2,681,215,  and  the 
average  expenditure  does  not  exceed 
Rs.  2,500,000.  The  State  pays  as 
tribute  to  the  Gdekwdd  and  the  British 
Government  Rs.  160,917.  The  rulers 
of  the  country  have  been  for  centuries 
Rdjpilits  of  the  Gohel  clan,  who  claim 
to  be  descended  from  Shdlivdhana, 
thought  by  Wilford  to  be  the  same  as 
Christ,  but  probably  a  king  who  first 
introduced  the  Christian  religion  into 
India,  78  years  after  the  Christian 
era.  These  Gohels  were  expelled  from 
Jodhpur  territory  about  1260  A.D.  by 
the  Rathods.  Sejakji,  their  chief,  mar- 
ried his  daughter  to  Prince  Khengar, 
son  of  the  Rd  of  Jiindgadh,  and  got  a 
grant  of  Shdhpiir  and  12  villages.  On 
this  he  built  a  village  on  the  temtory 
and  called  it  Sejakpur.  Rdnojl,  son 
of  Sejakji,  moved  the  capital  to  Ran- 
pur,  but  was  expelled  by  the  Muslims 
in  1309  A.D.  His  son  Mokherdji  con- 
quered several  districts,  and  amongst 
them  Umrdld,  which  he  made  his 
capital.  He  was  conquered  and 
killed  by  the  Emperor  Muhammad 
Tughlak  of  Dilli.  His  descendants 
recovered  their  dominions  and  ex- 
tended them,  and  one  of  them,  Visoji, 
who  reigned  from  1570  to  1600,  con- 
quered Sihor  and  made  it  his  capital. 
In  1683  Bhausingjl  was  born,  and 
succeeded  his  father  Ratanji  in  1703. 
In  1722  he  repulsed  the  Mardthas 
under  Kdntajl  Eadam  B&nde  and 
Pildji  Gdekwdd,  but  was  so  alarmed 
at  the  prospect  of  another  invasion 
that  he  moved  his  capital  to  the 
village  of  Wadwa  on  the  Kotla  Khdri 
creek,  in  which  the  Halubhar  river 
ends,  and  here  founded  the  city  of 
Bhaunagar  in  1723  A.D.  One  of  his 
objects  was  to  secure  the  trade  with 
Ehdmbdyat  and  Surat,  then  mo- 
nopolized by  Gogha,  which  is  11  m.  to 


Sect.  II. 


RotUe  37. — Bhminagar  and  Vicinitif, 


381 


the  S.  of  Bhaunagar.  Major  Watson, 
in  his  statistical  account  of  Bhaunagar, 
says  of  Bhausingji,  •*  Few  chiefs  in 
India  have  accomplished  more  than 
Bhausingji  did  during  his  long  life, 
and  few  have  displayed  such  a  happy 
mixture  of  caution  and  audacity  as  he. 
Out  of  the  petty  chief  dom  of  Sihor  he 
erected  the  principality  of  Bhaunagar, 
and  the  work  he  so  ably  commenced 
was  carried  on  in  an  equally  prosper- 
ous manner  by  his  grandson  Wakht- 
singji  in  after  times.  Bhausingji  was 
succeeded  by  his  eldest  son  AkherAjji 
in  1764  A.D."  In  1771  AkherAjjl  as- 
sisted the  English  in  expelling  the 
Koli  pirates  from  Taldji,  which  the 
English  offered  to  him,  and  on  his 
declining  it  gave  it  to  the  Ntiw&b 
of  Ehambdyat.  Akher^jji  died  in 
1772  and  was  succeeded  by  his  son 
Wakhtsingjl,  who  in  1780,  with  the 
sanction  of  the  English,  conquered 
Taldjd.  In  1781  he  conquered  Jhdnjh- 
mer,  and  in  1784  MahiiwA;  in  1790 
he  conquered  KiindlA,  and  in  1793 
Chital  and  the  whole  of  the  Bot^  pro- 
vince. In  1796  he  fought  a  bloody 
and  dubious  battle  with  Hamid  Khdn, 
Ntiw^b  of  Jiin^adh.  He  died  in 
1816  and  was  succeeded  by  his  son 
Wijesingjl,  whose  daughter  in  1829 
married  the  Jdm  of  Nowanagar.  In 
1852  W^jesingjl  died  and  was  sue- 
ceeded  by  his  son  AkherAjji,  who  died 
in  1854  and  was  succeeded  by  his  bro- 
ther Jaswantsingji,  whose  niece  mar- 
ried Vibhajl,  the  present  JAm  of  No- 
wanagar. In  1864  Jaswantsing  built 
the  Jaswanath  temple  at  Bhauna- 
gar and  other  edifices,  and  in  1867  was 
made  a  K.C.S.I.  In  1868  he  went  on 
a  pilgrimage  to  BanAras,  and  died  on 
April  11th,  1870,  when  his  son  Takt- 
glngji,  bom  on  January  6th,  1868,  suc- 
ceeded. This  young  prince  being  a 
minor  was  sent  in  1871  to  the  Rdjku- 
mar  College  at  Bdjkot)  where  he  re- 
mained till  1874,  when  he  returned  to 
his  capital,,  and  continued  his  studies 
under  Captain  Nutt.  In  the  same  year 
he  married  four  ladies  of  the  iG^ondal, 
Wdnkanir,  Wadhwdn  and  TalAjA 
families.  On  the  Istof  January,  1877, 
this  Prince,  accompanied  by  his  minis- 
ter AzamOdvarishankarUdayashankar, 


was  present  at  the  Impcrisd  Assem- 
blage at  Dilli,  where  he  received  a 
banner  from  H.  E.  the  Viceroy,  and 
his  salute  was  increased  from  11  to  15 
guns.  His  old  and  faithful  minister 
was  made  a  C.S.I.  The  munificence 
of  this  chief  is  unexampled;  he  be- 
stowed Rs.  117,000  for  the  erection  of 
the  Kai^r-i-Hind  bridge  at  RAjkot, 
and  his  contributions  to  the  Rdjkum&r 
College  have  been  so  large  that  he  may 
be  almost  said  to  have  founded  it.  He 
has  also  given  large  sums  to  other 
public  works,  and  the  railway  between 
his  capital  and  BAjko^  is  being  exe- 
cuted entirely  at  his  cost.  The  T^i^or 
has  several  villas  in  which  he  can 
receive  guests,  but  the  T.B.  is  to  the  B. 
of  the  town.  The  Bandar  is  con- 
venient, as  it  is  easy  to  go  on  board 
the  steamer  which  plies  between 
Bhaunagar  and  Surat^ 

Sights  near  Bhaunagar, — Kham- 
b^yat  (Cambay)  is  only  48  m.  to  the 
N.  of  Bhaunagar.  An  adventurous 
traveller  might  like  to  cross  to  it  in  a 
native  sailing  vessel.  The  T.  B.  is  a 
spacious  building,  once  the  Engluh 
Factory  ;  sold  in  1836  to  Khurshidjl 
Pestan]!  Modi  of  Bombay  for  40,000 
rupees,  and  now  rented  by  Government, 
a  condition  of  the  purchase,  for  1800 
rupees  per  annum.  It  is  substantial, 
and  the  apartments  are  roomy.  The 
upper  story  is  the  part  occupied  by 
travellers,  the  ground  floor  is  the  office 
of  the  MAmlatdAr,  who  is  placed 
under  the  Collector  of  Kheda.  A  high 
brick  waU  surrounds  the  edifice,  and 
this  enclosure  is  the  only  portion  of 
British  ground  within  the  city.  On 
the  stone  staircase  are  viestiges  of 
heraldic  designs.  The  site  is  elevated, 
and  from  the  terraced  roof  there  is  an 
agreeable  prospect  over  the  waters  of 
the  Gulf  and  the  surrounding  country. 
Those  who  arrive  at  Khamb&yat  by 
water  land  at  a  pier  from  which  a 
long  bank  of  black  earth  projects. 
The  Gulf  is  a  remarkable  inlet,  and 
has  rather  an  evil  reputation  from  the 
violence  of  its  tides,  which  rise  .30  ft. 
The  roar  of  the  coming  water  is  heard 
long  before  it  approaches,  and  such  is 
its  force  and  velocity  that  a  vessel 
which  takes  the  ground  heels  over  and 


382  EauU  37. — Songadh  to  Wallah  and  Bhaunagar.     Sect  II. 


is  lost  in  a  moment.  The  high  banks 
all  round  are  continually  undermined, 
and  fall  with  craeAi  after  crash  into 
the  sea. 

History. ^Khambayat  is  a  city  of 
great    antiquity,    and    according    to 
Forbes,*  is   built   on  the  site  of  a 
Hindii  city,  which  was  itself  founded 
1,280  years  ago,  on  the  site  of  the 
Camanes   of    Ptolemy.     Todf  states 
that  it  is  mentioned  in  the  old  Jain 
books  as  haying  been  Tisited  in  1084 
A.D.  by  Eom4rp41  in  his  wanderings, 
and  60  years  previous  it  was  plundered 
by  Mali^mM  of  Ghazni.    It  was  again 
taken  and  sacked  by  the  Mu^ammadans 
in  the  reign  of    'Aldu'd-din  in  A.D. 
1297,    and   then   passed   under    the 
SuUdns  of  A^mad^b&d.     In  1572  it 
capitulated  to  Akbar,  and  formed  the 
parganak  called  the  cluiur&si,  or  84 
districts  under  the  yiceroy  of  A^mad4- 
bdd.    The  Niiwdb  Mirzi  Multiammad 
J*afar,  sumamed  Mi!imin  KhAn.  gave 
it  as  a  dowry  with  his  daughter  Bti 
Eh^nam,  to  Mirz4  Muhammad  Amir, 
a  Persian  nobleman  of  high  descent. 
Their  son,  Mirz&  Mn]|^ammad  Kuli, 
succeeded  to  the  goyemment  of  Eham- 
bdyat,  a.h.  1199,  under  the  title  of 
Kajum  Kh&n,  and  married  his  cousin, 
heiress  of  the  Niiwdb  of  Al^maddb^, 
by  whom  he  had  Fat^  'All  Eh4n,  sur- 
named,  as  Niiw&b,  Mi!unin  KhAn,  who 
ascended  the  throne  A.H.  1204,  and 
died  A.H.   1236 =A.D.  1823,  without 
issue.  He  was  succeeded  by  his  brother, 
Bandah    'All    Kh&n,    sumamed,    as 
NiiwAb,  Mtimin  KhAn  II.,  who  died 
A.H.  1257,  leaying  by  a  slaye  girl,  one 
daughter,  married  to  Qusain  Ydyar 
Eh^,  sumamed,  as  Ntiw4b,  Mtimin 
Khdn  III.,  son  of  Ydyar  'All  KhAn, 
third  brother  of  Fat^  'All,  and  who 
resigned  the  right  to  succeed  to  the 
NiiwAbship  in  fayour  of  his  son  Qusain. 
The  son  of  this  last  Ntiwdb,  called 
Fat^i  'Ali,  was  bom  in  November,  1848. 
Khambdyat  has  be^i  much  visited  by 
European  travellers,  as  Fietro  delle 
Valle,    Gaosar    Fredericke,     Francis 
d'Almeyda,  Osario.    In  1543,  a  mission 
from  Elizabeth  was  ordered  to  proceed 

*  "  Oriental  Memoirs,"  voL  1,  p.  819. 
t  "Western  India." 


by  EhambAyat  to  China.    In  1583, 
Halph  Fitch,  a  merchant  of  London, 
came  hither  from  Basrah,  and  describes 
*' Cambaietta "  as  "great   and   very 
populous,  and  fairly  built  for  a  town 
of  the  Gtentiles. "    The  name  is  derived 
from  Khambahf "  pillar,"  from  a  copper 
pillar  set  up  by  a  R&j&  before  the 
11th  century  A.D.,  on  which  was  an 
inscription  dedicating  the  city  with 
84  villages  to  Devi.     (See  "Western 
India,"  p.  248).    The  city,  built  on 
slightly  rising  ground,  is  now  only 
3    m.    in   circumference,   but   ruins 
extend  a  long  way  in  every  direction. 
The  pop.,  by  the  census  of  1872,  was 
33,709.    It  is  the  capital  of  a  district 
with  an  area  of  350  sq.  m..  containing 
87    townships    and    villages,    29,505 
houses,  and  83,494  persons,  thus  having 
238  persons  to  the  sq.  m.     The  wall  is 
of  brick,  and  appears  to  have  been 
perforated  for  musketry,  and  flanked 
by  52  towers.     Making  a  circuit  to 
the  £.  the  gates  are  as  follows : — ^the 
Furj&  or  Customs  Ghite ;  the  Makkah  ; 
the  Bh6i  ki  b^ri  Gate ;  the  Madia  kX 
bdri  Gate ;    the  Gowdd4  Gate ;   the 
Bohori   b&rl  Gate ;   the  T^j  Gate  ; 
the  Fat^  Gate ;  the  Mu^ammaidi  Gate ; 
and  the  Chdk  Gate.    The  walls  have 
never  been  properly  prepared  since 
the   time   of   Akbar.     The   English 
Factory  here  was  established  about 
the  same  time  as  that  at  Surat.    The 
principal  mosque  is  situated  about  ^ 
m.  from  the  English  Factory.    Accord- 
ing to  Tod  and  Forbes,  it  is  built  on 
the  site  of  a  Hindii  or  Jain  temple, 
and  the  idols  there  worshipped  were 
interred  by  the  conquering  Muslims 
under  the  pavement,  once  composed 
of  white  marble  slabs,  removed,  per- 
haps by  the  Mar4th^,  and  replaced 
by   stone.      It   forms   a   square    of 
210  ft,  and  a  succession  of  domes  of 
different  sizes,  supported  by  piUars, 
compose  a  grand  colonnade  round  ihe 
interior  area.    On  the  S.  entrance  is  a 
handsome  minaret,  the  companion  to 
which  .  having   been    destroyed    by 
lightning,  was  never  restored.  Briggs, 
who  in  general  is  not  an  impassioned 
observer,  remarks  that  it  is  **  impos- 
sible not  to  be  lost  in  raptoxe  at  the 
elegant  frieze,  the  elaborate  ceiling, 


Sect.  II. 


Soiite  37. — Bhaunagar  and  Vicinity. 


383 


the  costly  accuracy  in  great  propor- 
tions, and  minute  detail  in  the  trellised 
windows  and  fretted  domes."  It  is  to 
be  regretted  that  this  grand  structure 
should  haye  fallen  to  ruin.  In  the 
centre  of  the  courtyard  is  a  tomb  with 
a  mean  cupola,  under  which  one 
Maliku't-tujj4r,  a  rich  merchant  who  is 
said  to  haye  been  the  founder  of  the 
mosque,  is  interred.  Oyer  the  centre 
arch  is  a  marble  slab  with  the  name 
and  date  in  Persian.  On  the  broken 
shaft  of  a  column  is  rudely  sculptured 
what  the  natiyes  call  "the  curse."  It 
is  supposed  to  imply  a  malediction  on 
any  destroyer  of  tiie  building.  Not 
fsx  from  tins  mosque  is  the  Darbir  or 
Niiwdb's  Palace.  It  is  a  poor  and 
patched  building,  its  archway  daubed 
with  yellow  wash  and  grotesque  figures. 
It  is  the  only  place,Ihoweyer,  besides 
the  English  Factory,  and  the  broad 
street  of  the  bdzdr,  where  it  is  possible 
to  step  without  coming  in  contact  with 
huge  stones  and  rubbish  that  are 
strewn  all  oyer  the  town.  DiUkushd, 
**  heart-expanding,"  the  Niiwdb's  gar- 
den, is  about  2  m.  from  the  Factory. 
There  are  a  large  tank  and  a  ratiier 
pretty  summer-house.  The  place  was 
laid  out  by  Col.  Charles  Keynolds, 
Suryeyor-General  of  W.  India,  and  was 
subsequently  purchased  by  the  Nilwdb. 
The  English  Cemetery  is  close  to  the 
seaward  gate  of  the  city.  It  is  a  small 
plot  of  ground  surrounded  by  a  low 
brick  wall,  with  an  iron  railing  on  the 
top.  There  are  about  25  monuments, 
and  among  them  one  to  Captain 
Francis  Outram,  of  the  Bombay  Engi- 
neers, brother  of  Sir  J.  Outram,  who 
died  at  the  Factory.  One  also  to 
Byrom  Rowle,  Collector  of  Ehe^a,  de- 
seryes  notice  on  account  of  the  great 
ability  and!promise  of  him  oyer  whom 
it  is  reared.  The  SuhterrajieotLs  Jain 
Ibmjfles  must  on  no  account  be  un- 
yisited.  One  of  them  is  in  the  quarter 
of  the  city  called  the  PdrH-wiidd,  a 
ratiier  filthy  locality.  In  outward 
appearance  there  is  nothing  to  distin- 
guiG^  the  shrine  from  the  adjacent 
houses.  The  interior  of  the  chapel  is 
narrow.  The  altar  stands  towards  the 
E.,  and  near  it  is  a  large  and  magnifi- 
cent image  of  P&rshwan^th  in  white 


marble,  supported  on  cither  side  by 
smaller  and  similar  figures,  while  a 
host  of  miniature  facsimiles  occupy 
the  whole  length  of  the  room,  which 
are  sold  to  yotaries.  The  eyes  of  the 
images  are  of  crystal,  and  seyeral  are 
ornamented  with  earrings  of  emeralds 
and  rubies.  A  side  door  leads  by  a 
narrow  flight  of  steps  into  the  under- 
ground temple  resorted  to  on  account 
of  the  persecutions  of  the  Mu^amma- 
dans,  and  resembling  the  similar  places 
of  worship  used  by  the  primitive 
Christians  under  like  circumstances. 
There  are  seyeral  white  marble 
figures,  but  nothing  yery  striking. 
The  Jain  temple  in  the  Hindu- 
wd4d  is  much  more  worth  seeing. 
The  figure  of  Pdrshwan^th  is  in 
execution  and  finish  far  superior  to 
that  in  the  Parsl-w&dd.  A  fanciful 
and  not  inelegant  canopy  affords  a 
liberal  supply  of  light,  and  the  wooden 
pillars  are  curiously  wrought.  The 
clay  wall  in  front  of  the  altar  is  coyered 
with  figures  of  warriors,  dancing  girls, 
etc.  Besides  these  temples  there  are 
innumerable  remains  worth  examin- 
ing, and  the  antiquarian  and  linguist 
might  spend  a  life  in  deciphering  the 
inscriptions  of  the  place.  A  few  miles 
from  KhambAyat  is  a  celebrated  well 
built  in  A,D.  1482.  It  is  called  the 
well  of  Yaday^,  and  is  well  worth  a 
yisit.  Ehambdyat  is  remarkable  for 
its  lapidaries,  and  a  specimen  of  agate, 
jasper,  onyx,  cat's  eye,  or  camelian 
should  be  purchased  as  a  memento. 


384 


EouU  38. — Bhcainagar  to  SuraL 


Sect.  n. 


ROUTE  38. 

BHAUNAGAB  TO  SUBAT. 

The  Kotia  Ehdrl  is  about  6  m.  long, 
and  from  the  mouth  of  it  to  Surat  is 
not  more  than  60  nu  as  the  crow  flies, 
bat  making  allowance  for  currents  and 
other  difficulties  the  whole  journey 
may  be  reckoned  at  between  80  and 
90  m.,  which  the  steamer  ¥dll  accom- 
plish in  11^  hours.  The  steamer  is 
about  200  tons  burden,  and  is  com- 
manded by  a  Mu^ammadan  Captain, 
who  has  had  considerable  experience, 
and  is  a  yery  cautious  commander. 
The  passage,  first  class,  is  Rs.  12,  and 
food  extra.  There  is  a  light  at  the 
end  of  the  creek,  and  no  danger  in  the 
passage.  The  steamer  will  seldom  be 
able  to  make  its  way  up  the  Taptl 
r.  as  far  as  Surat  on  account  of  the 
numerous  shoals,  but  its  passengers 
will  get  into  boats  and  be  landed  close 
to  the  T.  B.  at  Surat.  The  women 
porters,  for  which  Surat  is  famous, 
will  crowd  into  the  water  more  than 
waist-deep  and  carry  the  passenger 
and  his  luggage  to  the  T.  B. 


ROUTE  39. 

BOMBAY  TO  KASACHi  AND  KOTBI. 

The  distance  from  Bombay  to 
Kardchl  is  808  m.,  and  the  voyage  by 
a  British  India  S.  N.  C.  Steamer  oc- 
cupies about  4  days.  A  first-class  pas- 
sage costs  rs.  90.  All  the  requisite 
information  as  to  the  time  of  sailing, 
etc.,  will  be  obtained  from  the  Com- 
pany's office  in  the  Fort. 


It  may  be  desirable  to  gire  here  very 
briefly  the  principal  statistics  with  re- 
gard to  Smdh.  Sindh  lies  between 
the  2.3rd  and  28th  parallel  of  N.  lat. 
and  the  66th  and  tlst  meridians  of 
£.  long.,  and  is  between  360  m.  from 
N.  to  S.  and  170  m.  from  B.  to  W. 
The  area  is  estimated  (^Gaz.  p.  2)  at 
between  66,000  and  67,000  sq.  m.,  but 
the  CoUectorates  of  Karachi,  Qaida- 
r4b4d  and  Shik&rpiirhave  respectively 
the  areas  16,109,  9,218,  and  10,242  sq. 
m.,  making  altogether  36,669  sq.  m. 
The  census  of  1872  gives  the  total 
area  at  46,698  sq.  m.,  and  the  pop. 
2,192,416,  of  which  Karachi  has 
423,496  ;  ^aidarAbAd,  721,947  ;  Ghur 
and  Parkar,  180,761  ;  ShikArpiir, 
766,227  ;  Upper  Sindh  frontier, 
89,986. 

PhyHcal  Geography, — Sindh,  with 
the  exception  of  the  hilly  range  on  its 
extreme  W.  which  occasionally  throws 
out  spurs  even  as  far  as  the  Indus,  is  a 
flat  country  divided  by  the  great  river 
Indus,  which,  after  a  course  of  1700  m. 
from  its  source  in  Thibet,  flows  into 
the  Arabian  Sea  by  several  mouths. 
The  river  begins  to  rise  in  March,  at- 
tains its  maximum  in  August,  and 
falls  in  September.  The  hills  which 
bound  Sindh  on  the  W.  are  known  by 
the  name  of  the  Hal4  range,  but  are 
more  properly  called  the  Khirtar  ( Guz, 
p.  3)  until  they  reach  the  26th  pa- 
rallel, when  they  merge  into  the  Pabb 
HiUs,  which  run  90  m.  in  a  S.  direction 
and  meet  the  sea  at  Cape  Mudri 
(Monze).  Some  of  the  Khirtar  peaks 
rise  to  7000  ft.,  but  the  Pabb  HUls  do 
not  exceed  2000  ft.  Amongst  their 
valleys  flows  the  Habb,  which  for 
some  distance  forms  the  W.  frontier 
of  Sindh. 

Htjftory,  —  The  Muslims  .invaded 
Sindh  under  Muhammad  Kdsim  ik 
94  A.H.=713  A.D.  Before  that  date 
Sindh  was  governed  by  Hindii  R&}is 
who  ruled  at  Alor,  a  little  to  the  N.  of 
Rohri.  Shortly  after  871  A.D.  Sindh 
was  divided  into  two  Muslim  king- 
doms, Multdn  and  Mansiira,  of  which 
the  former  extended  from  the  N.  to  Alor, 
while  Mansiira  stretched  from  Alor  to 
the  sea.  In  1032  A.D.  Ibn  Sumarfoundcd 
the  Sumra  dynasty,  which  lasted  till 


Sect.  II. 


JRoiUe  39. — Kardchu 


385 


1351  A.D.  when  the  Samma  dynasty, 
who  were  originally  Yidava  B&jpiits, 
and  were  converted  to  Isl^m  abont 
1391  A.D.,  succeeded.  The  Arghiin 
dynasty  followed  in  1521  A.D.,  called 
from  a  descendant  of  Changhiz  KhAn, 
and  continued  till  1554,  when  the 
Tarkhan  dynasty  succeeded,  which 
lasted  only  till  1592,  when  Sindh  was 
incorporated  into  the  Mughul  empire. 
In  1658  Nazir  Muhammad  Kalhora 
rebelled  against  the  Mughul s,  and 
founded  the  dynasty  of  the  Kalhoras, 
which  reigned  from  1701  to  1782.  In 
1783  the  Tdlpurs  succeeded  under  Mir 
Fatl;  'AH,  and  ruled  until  the  17th 
February,  1843,  when  Sir  C.  Napier 
with  2,800  men  and  12  guns  defeated 
the  forces  of  the  TAlpurs,  and  over- 
turned their  Groyemment.  Since  then 
Sindh  has  been  ruled  by  the  British,  Sir 
C.  Napier  having  been  the  first  commis- 
sioner or  governor.  He  resigned  in 
October,  1847,  and  was  succeeded  by 
Mr.  Pringle,  Bombay  C.  S.,  from 
which  time  Sindh  was  made  subject 
to  the  Bombay  Government.  In  De- 
cember, 1850,  Mr.  Pringle  resigned, 
and  was  succeeded  in  January,  1851, 
by  Mr.,  now  Sir  B.  Frere.  In  January, 
1852,  Mir  'AH  Murdd  of  Khairpiir  was 
declared  guilty  of  forgery,  when  the 
Parganas  of  Kandidro,  Naushahro, 
and  the  Biirdika,  Shdhbela,  Chak, 
SaidabM,  Ubanro,  Mirpiir,  and  Ladho 
Gdgan  districts  with  the  Alor,  Bakkar, 
and  Bamburki  Tapas,  were  taken 
from  him  and  annexed  to  the  British 
territory.  The  area  so  confiscated 
amounted  to  5,412  sq.  m.  In  1853 
the  ex-Amlrs  of  Sindh  were  permitted 
to  return  to  their  country,  and  in 
April,  1854,  Shir  Muhammad,  Khdn 
Muhammad  and  Sh4h  Muhammad  did 
return.  In  1856  Mr.  Frere  went  on 
furlough,  and  Col.  John  Jacob  acted 
for  him  till  his  return.  On  the  14th 
September,  1857,  the  21st  Regt.  Bom. 
N.  I.  mutinied  at  KarAchi,  for  which 
five  were  blown  from  guns,  eleven 
hanged,  and  many  transported.  In 
April,  1858,  Mr.  Frere  turned  the  first 
sod  of  the  Sindh  Railway,  and  the 
Oriental  Inland  Steam  Company  began 
its  operations.  In  1859  a  rebellion 
in    the    Nagar    Parkar    district    was 

[^OTO^y— 1880.] 


suppressed,  and  the  RAna  was  trans- 
ported for  14  years,  and  his  minister 
for  10  years.  In  May,  1859,  Mr.  Frere 
was  made  a  K.C.B.,  and  in  August  of 
that  year  a  member  of  the  Supreme 
Council,  when  Mr.  T.  D.  Inverarity 
succeeded  him  as  Commissioner  of 
Sindh.  In  1862  Mr.  S.  Mansfield,  C.S., 
succeeded  Mr.  Inverarity,  and  on  the 
12th  June,  1867,  Sir  W.  L.  Merewether 
was  appointed  his  successor ;  but  as 
he  was  engaged  in  the  Abyssinian 
War,  he  did  not  enter  on  his  duties 
tm  the  10th  July,  1868,  Mr.  Havelock 
acting  for  him. 

Karachi,  in  24'*  51'  N.  lat.,  and 
67°  2'  E.  lat.,  is  the  capital  of  a 
coUcctorate  with  a  pop.  of  53,526, 
of  whom  27,934  are  Muslims.  The 
harbour  is  formed  by  the  projecting 
headland  of  Manora  on  the  "W.,  at  the 
end  of  which  is  a  lighthouse  shewing 
a  fixed  light  120  ft.  above  sea-level, 
visible  in  clear  weather  17  m.,  but  only 
7  m.  in  the  monsoon.  Manora  is  a 
quarter  of  the  Karachi  municipaUty  ; 
the  master-attendant  of  the  port 
lives  at  the  fort,  which  was  built  in 
1797,  as  does  the  superintendent  of  the 
harbour  works.  There  are  also  many 
pilots  and  persons  connected  with  the 
telegraph  department.  There  are  also 
a  church,  St.  Paul's,  built  in  1864,  and 
consecrated  in  1865  ;  the  nave  is  43  ft. 
long  and  20  ft.  wide,  with  a  height  to 
the  tie-beam  of  20  ft. ;  a  library,  bil- 
liard-room, and  school.  Manora  hill 
is  100  ft.  high  at  its  E.  end,  and  40  ft. 
at  its  W.  end.  At  the  distance  of 
2310  ft.  to  the  E.  of  Manora  is  a  break- 
water, which  forms  the  protection  of 
the  entrance  to  the  harbour  in  that 
direction,  and  is  If  m.  long.  At  the 
N.  end  of  this  breakwater  is  the  land- 
ing-place with  three  jetties  on  the 
island  of  Kiamdri,  the  Commissariat, 
the  Passenger,  and  the  Customs  jetty. 
Hack  carriages  and  carts  are  here  at  ^1 
times  procurable.  From  this  terminus 
of  the  ry.  to  the  Frere  Stat.,  which 
is  the  S.E.  end  of  the  cantonments,  is 
reckoned  5  m.,  though  it  is  not  quite 
so  much  ;  to  the  McLeod  Stat.,  which 
is  nearly  2  m.  to  the  N.W.  of  the  Frere 
Stat.,  is  reckoned  6J  m.  About  3  m. 
from  the  jetties,  towai'ds  the  Frere 

c  c 


386 


HoiUe  ^^.— Bombay  to  Kardctii  and  Kotri.        Beet.  II. 


Stat,  on  the  rt.  of  the  line,  is  an  island, 
on  which  is  the  Observatory.  Eiam&ri 
is  connected  with  the  old  town  of 
Karachi  by  the  Napier  Mole  Rd., 
made  in  1854,  and  said  in  the  Gaz, 
to  be  3  m.  long,  though  the  actual 
Mole  itself  is  less  than  2  m.  At  the  N. 
end  of  the  Mole  Road  stands  the  Custom 
House,  crossing  the  road  with  6  arches, 
through  which  the  traffic  passes.  The 
B.  wing  was  added  in  1869.  W.  of  the 
Custom  House  is  the  Cotton  Press 
House,  which  can  press  300  bales  a 
day.  Two  roads  lead  from  the  Cus- 
tom House  to  the  Cantonment ;  that  to 
the  S.  is  the  McLeod  Road,  with  2 
branches,  the  Ingle  and  Kacherl ;  the 
road  to  the  K.  is  the  Bandar  Road, 
which  is  nearly  2}  m.  long,  and  ends 
in  the  Depot  Lines.  On  the  left  of 
the  Bandar  Road  is  the  old  town  and 
the  quarters  termed  Bandar,  Market, 
and  Napier,  which  are  bounded  on  the 
N.W.  by  the  so-called  Laydri  river, 
which  ^  is  a  mere  channel,  having 
water  in  it  only  once  or  twice  a  year. 
On  the  right  of  the  Bandar  Road  are 
the  quarters  called  Sardi  and  Railway, 
and  through  them  runs  the  McLeod 
Road.  In  these  quarters  are  the 
Court  House,  built  in  1866,  at  a  cost 
of  £12,000,  and  containing  the  Judicial 
Ministers,  District  Judges,  and  Town 
Magistrate's  offices  ;  a  Uttle  to  the  N. 
Finlay  &  Co's.  Office  ;  400  yds.  to 
the  E.  the  New  Bank  of  Bombay, 
built  in  1866  ;  150  yds.  to  the  S.E.  the 
McLeod  station ;  800  yds.  to  the  E. 
the  Post  Office  and  MekrAn  Telegraph 
Office.  Here  are  also  the  Agra  Bank, 
built  in  1866,  which  cost  Rs.  78,000 ; 
close  to  Finlay  &  Co.'s  and  the 
Chamber  of  Commerce,  built  in  1864  ; 
the  Dispensary  and  the  l^abjl  and 
Albert  Presses.  Further  to  the  N.B. 
are  the  Jail,  the  Mission  Church,  the 
Government  High  School,  the  Civil 
Hospital,  the  Native  General  library, 
the  Small  Cause  Court,  and  a  few 
yards  beyond  it  the  T.  B.  Govern- 
ment House  is  to  the  E.  of  the  Mc 
Leod  Road,  and  on  a  line  with  it.  It 
stands  in  a  large  walled  enclosure, 
and  its  front  faces  the  "W. ;  it  was 
built  by  Sir  C.  Napier,  and  bought  of 
him    by    Government   in    1847    for 


Rs.  48,273.  It  consists  of  a  central 
building  with  two  wings ;  the  upper 
story  was  added  by  General  Jacob,  in 
1856.  300  yds.  to  the  E.  of  the 
Government  House  is  Trinity  Church, 
the  largest  in  Karachi ;  it  stands  in 
the  centre  of  a  ground  15  acres  in 
extent,  enclosed  in  1868  ;  it  was  built 
by  Captain  Hill,  R.E.,  at  a  cost  of 
Rs.  56,612  in  1862,  and  consecrated  in 
1855.  It  consists  of  a  nave  116  ft. 
long,  58J  ft.  broad,  and  44J  ft.  high  ; 
two  side  aisles,  apsidal  chancel,  and 
square  tower,  150  ft.  high  ;  one  of  the 
aisle'  stained-glass  winnows  was  put 
up  in  honour  of  Sir  C.  Napier  and  the 
victors  of  MiAnl.  St.  Andrew's  Scotch 
church  stands  W.  of  the  Post  Office 
Square  ;  its  style  is  Gothic  of  the  14th 
century.  It  was  opened  for  service 
on  the  last  day  of  1868  ;  the  nave  is 
100  ft.  long,  56  ft  wide,  and  66  ft. 
high  to  ridge  of  roof ;  there  are  two 
side  aisles,  with  an  octagonal  porch 
at  the  S.  comer,  and  a  tower  and 
steeple  135  ft.  high ;  it  cost  Rs.  66,000 
and  can  seat  400  persons.  The 
Mission  Church  at  the  junction  of 
the  Lawrence  and  Mission  Roads 
is  in  the  Early  English  style,  has  a 
nave  93  ft.  long  and  20  ft.  broad,  and 
stands  in  a  walled  enclosure  of  3^ 
acres;  the  first  stone  was  laid  in 
January  1865,  and  it  was  opened  in 
January  next.  At  650  yds.  to  the  S.B. 
of  Trinity  Church  is  the  Frere  Hall, 
built  in  honour  of  Su-  H.  B.  Frere ;  it 
was  begun  in  1863  and  opened  by 
Commissioner  Mansfield  in  October 
1865,  to  which  date  it  cost  Rs.  173,912. 
This' hall  was  designed  by  Capt.  St. 
Clair  Wilkins,  R.B.  in  the  Venetian 
Gothic  style;  the  principal  room  is 
70  ft.  long,  36  ft  wide,  and  38  ft  high, 
with  an  orchestral  gallery,  and  is  used 
for  balls  and  public  meetings.  On 
two  sides  are  wide  verandahs  70  by  13 
ft  and  36  ft.  by  13  ft  supported  by 
pilhurs  of  Porbandar  stone,  and  the 
two  largest  rooms  on  the  ground  floor 
are  the  KarAchi  General  Library  and 
Museum.  The  climate  of  Karachi  is 
by  fxa  the  best  in  Sindh,  the  mean 
temperature  being  77°.  The  hottest 
months  are  April,  May,  and  June; 
the  cold  weather  begins  in  November, 


Sect  II. 


MoiUe  39. — Kardchi  and  Vicinity. 


387 


In  1873-4  the  total  value  of  the  im- 
ports and  exportsat  this  port  amounted 
to  Bs.  35,076,844.  There  is  a  bathing 
place  at  Clifton,  1 J  m.  to  the  E.  of  the 
Bailwaj,  at  the  point  where  after 
running  E.  from  Kiam4rl  it  begins 
to  turn  N.  The  village  of  Gisri  is 
about  1  m.  to  the  E.  of  Clifton,  and 
gives  its  name  to  a  creek  about  1  m. 
to  the  E.  of  it.  There  is  a  sanatorium 
here  for  European  soldiers,  which  can 
hold  6  officers  and  103  men ;  it  is  in 
connection  with  the  Napier  Barracks, 
which  are  on  the  E.  of  the  canton- 
ment and  consist  of  10  blocks,  6  in 
front  and  4  in  rear,  capable  of  hous- 
ing a  whole  regiment  of  Infantry. 
The  Race  Course  is  close  to  the  Frere 
station,  and  due  S.  of  it.  Let  the 
traveller  while  at  Karachi  not  forget 
that  most  excellent  fish  is  to  be  pro- 
cured, especially  pomfret. 

Sights  near  Kardchi, — At  7  m.  to 
the  N-  of  Karachi  is  the  valley  of  Pir 
M&ngo,  commonly  called  Magar  Pir. 
This  should  be  visited  by  the  traveller. 
The  valley  is  surrounded  by  hills  700  ft. 
high,  to  the  foot  of  which  is  a  ride  of 
an  hour.  From  the  roots  of  a  clump 
of  date  trees  gushes  out  a  stream  of 
hot  water,  the  temperature  of  which 
is  133°.  Alligators  12  ft.  long  are 
found  here.  On  the  W.  side  of  the 
valley  is  a  temple  surrounded  by  a 
thick  grove,  and  close  by  is  a  swamp 
caused  by  the  superfluous  waters  of 
the  spring.  In  this  swamp  are  a 
number  of  small  islets,  separated  by 
channels  of  water,  and  the  whole  place 
swarms  with  alligators.  For  a  detailed 
account  of  this  curious  place  see  **  Dry 
Leaves  from  Young  Egypt,"  p.  218,  and 
Burton's  "  Bind,"  vol.  i.  p.  48.  The  place 
is  considered  sacred,  and  dedicated 
to  one  Hdji  Mdngo.  There  is  a 
Government  Bharmsdld  at  Magarplr, 
and  also  a  small  Bangld  built  by  a 
Parsi,  where  visitors  can  put  up. 
The  so-called  alligators  are  really 
crocodiles,  and  have  a  round  head 
and  not  the  long  snout  of  the  Indus 
Ghaxiah 

Uingldj. — Another  very  curious 
place  ought  to  be  visiteil,  nutwithstaud- 
ing  its  distance.  This  is  Hingldj  near 
Sonmiy^ni. 


The  stages  are  as  follows  : — 


Places. 


From  Ear&chi  and  x  bed  of  Kara- 
chi r 

X  shallow  Inlet  of  sea       .       .    . 

Patali  tank,  dry      .... 

Pattii  tank,  dry 

X  rocky  ridge 

X  ditto 

X  muddy  n 

Puss  thin  Jungle  to  Eab  r.  400  yds. 
wide,  with  sandy  i)ebbly  channel 

Enter  Ganddba  Lakk,  a  narrow 
stony  pass  in  the  Pab  mountains 

Pass  small  tank  and  tombs    . 

X  Bhawdni  r.,  with  sandy  bed, 
and  well,  65  ft.  deep       .       .    . 

X  Bhagal  ravine,  steep  and  deep  . 

Bidok 

Pass  well  of  good  water,  80  .  deep, 
400  yds.  to  r.,  up  Burldah  avine 

Brackish  well,  called  Khdii      .    . 

2  wells,  40  ft.  deep,  800  yds.  to  r., 
up  Ghabheii  ravine 

Du& 

Pass  3  brackish  wells     . 

S  good  wells,  400  yds.  to  I.  called 
OkA 

X  sandy  bed  of  Indra,  or  Vindur  r. 

Bonmiy&ni 


Stages. 


M.F. 

M.F. 

1  6 

0  6 

2  0 

5  1 

0  6 

2  0 

1  6 

1  1 

15 

30 

2  0 

07 

6  1 

27 

14 

1  5i 
1  6 

1  5 
Hi 

1  1 

6  0 
4  3 

2  2 


6  2 


13  0 


50  1 


The  character  of  the  country  to 
the  Hab  Eiver  is  the  same  as  that  de- 
scribed on  the  way  to  the  Alligator 
Tank.  Abelt  of  tamarisk  jungle  extends 
a  few  hundred  yds.  on  each  side  of  the 
river,  which,  according  to  Captain 
Hart,*  ceases  to  be  a  stream  in  Febru- 
ary, though  water  is  always  found  in 
pools.  The  tombs  near  the  Ganddba 
Lakk,  called  by  Hindiis,  AngdkJie7d 
JBJieram  Lakk,  are  those  of  some  sol- 
diers of  the  Jdm  of  Beld  and  of  Kumria 
plunderers,  who  were  killed  in  mutual 
conflict  about  30  years  ago.  The  Burl- 
dah ravine,  called  by  Captain  Hart  the 
Bareed  Luk,  presents  a  most  singular 
appearance,  and  is  formed  by  a  hill 
having  been  detached  by  some  convul- 
sions of  nature  from  the  range,  which 
is  here  about  200  ft.  in  perpendicular 
height.    The  path  leads  along  the  edge 

*  "Bombay  Selections," p.  323.  The  account 
of  this  officer's  journey  is  the  one  here  followed. 
It  will  bo  found  in  the  place  referred  to  above, 
and  somewhat  differently  given  in  the  Pro- 
ceedings of  the  Bomb.  Geo.  Soc.  for  1839, 
under  tlie  title  of  '*  A  Pilgrimage  to  Hingljy." 

c  c  2 


388 


Rovte  39. — Bombay  to  Kardckt  and  Kotrt,  Sect/ 11. 


of  a  deep  ravine,  where  the  rush  of 
the  stream  has  cut  a  channel  as  even 
as  if  done  by  art.  The  sea  is  not  far 
off  at  this  spot ;  but  further  on,  the 
distance  widens  into  a  flat  a  mile  in 
breadth,  covered  with  low  tamarisk 
jungle  and  caper  bushes.  On  this,  in 
February,  is  a  crop  of  grass,  affording 
excellent  pasturage  for  the  horses  of 
the  traveller.  To  the  left  of  the  road, 
before  reaching  the  Vindiir  river,  are 
the  ruins  of  a  small  building,  called  Plr 
Patta  by  Mu1;iammadans,  and  Gopl- 
chand  RAj4  by  Hindiis.  Thence  the 
road  lies  over  a  barren  plain  and  a 
range  of  sand-hills,  from  the  top  of 
which  SonmiyAnl  is  seen,  "remarkable 
only  from  the  absence  of  all  verdure 
around  it."  The  town  is  situated  at 
the  head  of  a  large  shallow  bay,  like  a 
horse-shoe,  into  which  vessels  of  any 
draught  cannot  enter  except  at  spring 
tides.  The  entrance  js  narrow,  and 
the  low  sand-banks  bordering  the 
harbour  afford  little  shelter.  All  boats 
but  coasting  craft  anchor  outside  the 
bar,  2  m.  from  the  town.  The  an- 
cestors of  the  Jdm  of  Beld,  in  whose 
territory  the  fort  is,  are  said  to  have 
been  Hindil  Rdjas  converted  by  the 
first  Muslim  invaders  of  Sindh.  Many 
Hindil  festivals  are  still  observed  in 
his  family.  Sonmiydnl  has  a  popula- 
tion of  about  2,000,  chiefly  Numrias. 
The  water  is  brackish.  In  1808,  the 
place  was  burned  by  Arab  pirates. 
There  are  the  remains  of  a  small  fort, 
which,  since  the  British  army  des- 
troyed the  pirates  of  the  Persian  Gulf, 
has  never  been  repaired.  The  stages 
from  Sonmiydnl  to  Hingldj  are,  1st,  to 
a  pool  of  fresh  water  at  the  edge  of 
the  sand-hills  which  border  the  man- 
grove swamp,  called  6hiru  chela  Ita 
JRan  ;  2nd,  a  range  of  sand-hills,  with 
a  small  well  of  brackish  water  beyond 
the  Purdll  river.  3rd,  Ddmbo;  4th, 
Kdttewdrd  ;  6th,  the  Tilak  Piiri  wells. 
Two  m.  to  the  W.  of  this  are  .S  hills 
of  very  light  coloured  earth  rising  ab- 
ruptly from  the  plain.  That  in  the 
centre  is  400  ft.  high,  conical,  with  the 
apex  flattened  and  discolored.  It  joins 
one  half  the  size  by  a  causeway  about 
60  paces  long.  A  basin  of  liqiiid  mud, 
100  paces  round,  occupies  the  centre 


of  the  highest.  Jets  of  liquid  mud 
rise  here  Incessantly  to  about  1  ft.  At 
times  the  rise  is  so  high  that  the  mud 
overflows  the  hill,  the  entire  coat  of 
which  is  slime  baked  hard  by  the  sun. 
The  mud  and  water  of  all  the  pools  are 
salt.  These  basins  are  called  ^^Mdma 
Chandra  hi  hup"  "Kama's  wells." 
The  legend  is  that  Mahadeo,  who  had 
been  12  years  searching  for  Sitd  in 
vain,  here  dashed  down  his  vihhut^  the 
mark  of  ashes  on  his  forehead,  and  it 
split  into  18  pieces,  and  formed  as 
many  hdpSj  when  Sltd  appeared  in  the 
form  of  ShH  mdtd,  "the  divine 
mother,"  and  informed  him  that  she 
had  been  with  him  in  all  his  wander- 
ings in  the  shape  of  a  fly  seated  on  his' 
vibhut,  and  that,  in  gratitude  for  his 
exertions,  these  hups  should  ever  be 
the  object  of  pilgrimage.  Of  the  18 
hqjn  7  are  here  and  11  are  spread 
over  the  mainland  of  Makrdn,  near  the 
barren  island  called  Sltd  Dwip,  which 
is  the  farthest  limit  of  Hindii  worship. 
The  Hindii  ascetic,  commencing  with 
this  island  and  the  temple  of  Hingldj, 
should  proceed  N.  to  the  fire  temples 
of  Jwdla  Mukhl,  near  Ldhiir  (Lahore) ; 
thence  to  Haridwdr  and  to  Kuru 
K§hetr,  the  plain  round  Dill! ;  thence 
to  Bandras,  and  to  the  temple  at  the 
supposed  confluence  of  the  Gangd  and 
the  Goddvari  in  the  heart  of  the  Gond 
country,  and  close  the  circle  at  Rdmesh- 
waram,  at  the  extreme  S.  of  India. 
He  will  then  have  completed  the 
entire  round  of  Hindii  pilgrimage ; 
and  having  begun  with  Sltd  and  Bha- 
vdnl  at  Sltd  Dwlp  and  Hingldj,  will  end 
with  Bdmah  and  Bhavdni  at  Rdmesh- 
waram  and  Cape  Kumdri  (Comorin). 
The  Hindii  pilgrim  to  Hingldj  secures 
first  an  Agwd,  or  spiritual  guide,  to 
instruct  him  where  and  how  to  worship 
on  the  journey.  The  oflice  of  the  KgwA 
is  hereditary,  and  even  Brdhmans  must 
follow  their  directions.  The  Agwds 
alone  officiate  in  the  temple,  and 
divide  the  offerings  at  Hingldj ;  but 
they  are  subject  to  a  chief,  who  is 
called  the  Pir,  or  saint  of  the  Hindiis 
in  Sindh,  and  who  furnishes  each  with 
a  chhari,  or  "wand  of  office,"  which 
he  gives  back  on  his  return.  It  is  2  ft. 
long,  forked  at  one  end,  and  painted 


Sect.  11. 


Route  39. — Hingldj. 


389 


with  red  ochre.    The  A'gwd  carries  it 
in  his  waistband^  fixes  it  in  the  ground 
as  a  signal  for  a  halt,  and  lights  a  fire 
round  it,  with  the  ashes  of  which  each 
pilgrim  smears  his  forehead.    The  pil- 
grims, as  soon  as  they  have  placed 
themselves  under  an  A'gwd,  put  on 
clothes  of  a  brickdust  colour.     They 
then  start  from  the  lUm  Bdgh,  or  the 
temple  of  Kallkot,  on  the  r.  b.  of  the 
r.  beyond  it,  the  A'gwi  on  all  occa- 
sions going  first.     The  first  halt  is 
made  at  the  Imli  or  Gorakh  Tank, 
where  Rdmah  and  Sltd,  having  started 
from  the  RAm  Bdgh  with  their  AgwA, 
LAllu    Jasrdj,  a  hermit  of   the    hot 
springs  at    Magar    Plr,  first  halted. 
Tong^  Bheru  is  the  next  halt,  marked 
by  a  few  pointed  stones,  the  site  of  a 
ruined  temple,  and  here  offerings  are 
made  and  prayers  recited.    The  fourth 
halt  is  at  a  place  where  R4mah  is  said 
to  have  been  defeated  when  attempting 
to  reach  Hingldj  with  an  army.    He 
then  turned  back  and  set  out  a  second 
time,  in  the  humble  guise  of  a  pilgrim, 
as  above  mentioned.    Near  this  is  a 
range  of  mountains  called  Mor.    The 
next  place  for  special  ceremonies  is 
the  Ktips,  where  a  cake  of  fine  fiour, 
almonds  and  raisins,  sugar,  spices,  etc., 
called  a  rot,  is  offered  to  Bi&mah,  and 
cocoa-nuts  are  thrown  into  the  heav- 
ing mud.    Some  fanatics  have  here 
drowned  themselves,  and  the  body  of 
one  of  them  is  said  to  have  been  found 
floating  in  the  sea,  which  is  supposed  to 
communicate  with  the  Ki!ips.    Twelve 
miles  from  the  Eiips  is  a  hill  called 
"the  Sulphur  Mountain,"  abounding 
in  that  mineral,  and  the  hills  between 
Lyari  and  Bel^  are  reported  to  be  a 
mass  of  copper  ore.    W.  of  the  Kiips 
is  a  low  quadrangular  range  of  hills 
called    the    S&t^  Darw^ah,  or  **60 
doors,"  leading  to  the  sanctuaries  of 
Shfi  Mdtd,  esteemed  very  holy  ground. 
Here  is  a  rock  called  the  Ghurdb-i 
gang,  or  "  stone  ship,"  where  the  vessel 
of  an  impious  merchant  was  turned 
into  stone.    After  leaving  the  Ki!ips 
the  road  lies  through  a  tract  called  the 
Siingal,  in  which   are   many  Tialds, 
their  beds  liued  with  tamarisk  and 
hahul  jungle.    Here  the  pilgrims  are 
paired  off;  and  told  to  regard  each 


other  as  brothers  and  sisters.    They 
eat  from  each  others'  hiands,  and  then 
roll  down  a  sandbank  together.    The 
road  then  runs  nearly  parallel  to  the 
Hdrd  or  H&U  mountains,  and  a  range 
towering  far  above  them  is  now  seen, 
in  which  is  the  far-famed  temple  of 
Hingldj.      Before  reaching    this  the 
Aghor  river  is  crossed,  to  drink  of 
which  is  esteemed  a  blessing.     The 
view  here  is  magnificent.    The  river 
flows    through  a  gorge  200   yds.  in 
width,    overhung    by    broken    crags. 
Beyond   is  a  i*ange  of   light-colored 
sandhills,  and  towering  over  them  the 
blue  mountains  of  Hingldj,  precipitous 
and  wild.    A  square  peak  like  a  pillar 
among   them  is  pointed  out  as   the 
A'mn,  or  seat  of  the  goddess,  where 
she  dries  her  hair  after  her  ablutions  ; 
and  two  other  hills  are  called  Jay  and 
Vijay,  fabled  to  be  the  janitors  of 
Indra's    heaven,  metamorphosed    for 
neglect  of  their  duties.     Under  the 
hiU  of    Vijay  is  the  usual  place  of 
encampment,  and  here  the  Aghor  river 
is  about  60  yds.  broad,  and  6  m.  from 
this  it  enters  the  sea.    At  this  halt 
the  pilgrims  shave  off  every  hair  on 
the  body  except  a  single  tuft  on  the 
crown  of  the  head.    The  road  then 
lies  along  the  1.  b.  of  the  Aghor,  which, 
after  leaving  the  hill  of  Vijay,  is  called 
the  HiTigul,  "vermilion,"  for  a  mile, 
and  then  turns  off  to  a  range  of  sand- 
hills called  Dewalgafh  (Dowlagarh). 
These  are  400  ft.  high,  and  are  covered 
with  numberless  conical,  ribbed,  light 
brown  peaks.    Before  reaching  them 
worship  is  performed  to  Gancsh,  the 
infant.     The  path  then  leads  up  a 
ravine  and  over  several  hills,  where 
offerings  of  needles  and  thread  are 
made    in    front   of    a   stone    called 
"  Bhera*s  needle,"  and  of  betel  before 
other  two  called  Man^ha  and  Mamgd 
Devi,    A  plain  to  the  N.E.  is  then 
crossed,  alx)ut  a  mile  in  length,  when 
the  river  is  again  reached  and  crossed 
at  a  spot  where  it  flows  on  each  side 
of  a  small  island.    Here  is  a  mountain 
whose  face  towards  the  stream  rises 
1000  ft.  in  one  sheer  precipice.    To  its 
right  the  path  turns  up  a  n&ldy  in 
which  is  a  rock  split  in  two,  beyond 
which  Gancsh,  the  adult,  is  worship- 


390 


•       _ 

Haute  39. — Bombay  to  Kardchi  and  Kotri.  Sect.  II. 


ped ;  and  2  m.  farther  a  stone  marks 
the  cell  of  the  goddess  here  called 
A'sMpurA^  "wish  fulfiller,'*  through 
which  flows  a  stream.  Not  far  from 
this,  along  the  course  of  the  stream,  is 
a  gorge  only  20  ft.  broad  and  half  a 
mile  long.  On  each  side  huge  per- 
pendicular cliffs  almost  exclude  the 
light  of  day.  A  short  distance  from 
its  entrance  is  a  low  natural  cave 
30  ft.  in  width  and  10  deep,  where 
male  goats,  without  blemish,  are 
offered  to  Edll,  and  the  blood  and 
ardent  spirits  are  dashed  upon  the 
rock.  Beyond  this,  a  quarter  of  a 
mile,  is  the  cave  of  HingUj,  It  is 
larger  but  of  similar  shape  to  that  of 
K^i.  At  its  W.  end  a  mud  temple 
20  ft.  long  and  12  deep,  under  a  pro- 
jecting rock,  contains  the  effigy  of 
Hingl&j.  On  the  E.  side,  a  few  steps 
lead  to  two  rooms,  where  singing  and 
music  go  on.  Between  them  and  the 
rock  is  a  doorway  leading  to  the 
effigy,  an  oblong  stone  within  a  railed 
space,  in  size  and  shape  like  a  small 
Mul^ammadan  tombstone,  raised  and 
hollowed  at  each  end  to  hold  the 
sacred  fire.  At  its  foot  a  conical  stone 
12  in.  high  is  called  Sad&shiva.  Both 
are  colored  with  red  ochre,  as  is  the 
arch  of  the  rock  above.  From  this, 
perhaps,  the  place  has  its  name  from 
the  Skj".  Mnguly  "vermilion,"  and 
lakfhj  "to  paint."  The  whole  stands 
on  an  earthen  platform,  between 
which  and  the  rock  is  a  narrow  arched 
passage,  through  which  a  man  can 
scarcely  crawl.  This  is  called  the 
S/iara,  and  every  pilgrim  must  pass 
it  on  his  hands  and  knees.  In  front 
of  the  cave  the  stream  forms  a  pool, 
opposite  which  is  a  large  rock  called 
the  Chhofi  CIuiurdH,  Near  the  sum- 
mit of  the  opposite  mountain  in  a 
small  cave,  circular  patches  of  red 
ochre  represent  the  sun,  moon,  and 
stars,  said  to  have  been  painted  by 
Edmah.  No  one  is  permitted  to  re- 
main at  the  temple  more  than  one 
night.  At  midnight  all  the  women 
and  children  are  made  to  bathe  in  the 
pool,  and  with  scarce  any  clothes  on 
go  into  the  building,  from  which  all 
men  but  the  Agwds  are  excluded.  All 
their  ornaments  are  then  taken  off, 


and  they  are  sent  two  by  two,  the 
right  hand  of  one  sister  being  placed 
on  the  leg  of  the  other,  on  their  hands 
and  knees  into  the  narrow  opening  of 
the  rock  under  the  platform.  On 
coming  out  on  the  opposite  side  they 
again  bathe  and  then  resume  their 
clothes.  The  men  in  pairs  then  fol- 
low. This  is  called  the  SJuira  JUn^- 
Idj,  and  is  a  sort  of  baptism.  At  day- 
light the  pilgrims  crowd  into  the 
temple  and  repeat  certain  prayers, 
after  which  necklaces  of  Tumr4  beads, 
made  of  a  small  white  stone,  found  at 
the  hill  of  Makdlla,  near  ^hatthd,  are 
hung  round  their  necks.  An  ascent 
into  the  mountains  to  the  Great 
CIuiurdH  concludes  the  pilgrimage. 
A  narrow  path  leads  up  a  defile  to  the 
right,  and  ascends  the  difficult  bed  of 
a  torrent.  It  passes  a  cave  called 
Gorakh  hi  Gvplid,  where  a  famous 
ascetic  resided,  and  in  it  every  pilgrim 
leaves  a  stick.  About  2  m.  from  this 
is  a  low  building  called  the  Dharm- 
8414  of  N4nak,  and  half  a  mile  from 
this  is  "the  pilgrim's  well,"  15  yds.  in 
diameter,  formed  by  a  cascade,  and 
divided  by  a  wall  of  rock,  in  which  is 
a  natursil  archway.  The  sides  are 
perpendicular,  and  the  level  of  the 
water  about  20  ft.  below  the  edge  of 
the  fall.  The  well  is  very  cold,  and 
said  to  be  unfathomable,  and  into  this 
all  pilgrims  must  jump.  A  small 
plant  growing  in  the  crevices  of  the 
rock,  called  the  Rdj  Hans^  is  much 
sought  for  here.  Its  leaves  taiust  be 
gathered  with  the  lips,  or,  if  possible, 
with  the  eyelids.  A  bed  of  rushes 
hides  the  stream  after  it  leaves  the 
basin,  and  a  short  distance  beyond  a 
perpendicular  wall  of  sandstone  marks 
the  limit  of  the  pilgrimage. 

The  traveller  must  leave  Karachi  by 
the  S.  P.  and  D.  Railway,  should  he 
desire  to  see  Thatthd  (Tatta)  and 
^aidardbdd.  The  same  would  be  his 
route  should  he  desire  to  go  to  Sakkar  ; 
but  as  Sindh  is  unhealthy,  and  as  there 
is  really  nothing  of  very  great  im- 
portance to  be  seen  above  Qaidar4b4d, 
it  is  probable  that  travellers  will  limit 
their  journey  to  that  place. 


Seot.  II. 


Boute  39. — Bambura — HutifM. 


391 


BaUway  between  Kar&ohi  and  KotrL 


•*8 

.betw. 
tions. 

Names 

Trains 

St  Class. 

:S| 

Ss! 

of  Stations. 

DaUy. 

a" 

j3«i 

1    ^ 

A.  M. 

P.  M.  n.A.p 

Karachi  City.    . 

8.  8 

5.58,'           1 

2 

2 

„    Cantonment 

8.28 

0.18  0  8  0 

14 

12 

Landi     .       .    .     0.57 

7.40; 1  0  0 

34 

20 

Dorbi^i       .        .   11.  0 

8.41I2  0  0 

fiS 

19 

Juneshal        arr.  1 11.51 

9.31I3  8  0 

Juugshai    .  (lep. 

12.  6 
P.  M. 

9.40 

78 

20  iJimpfr   .       .    . 

1.12 

10.42  4  8  0 

85 

12  'Meting 

12  iBolArf    .        .    . 

1.51 

11.18  5  0  0 

97 

. 

t 

105 

8   Kotii  .        .       .1.53 

11.15  7  0  0 

1 
1 

Remarks.  —  Landi  is  called  in  the  map 
Malir.  The  r.  is  crossed  by  a  bridge  of  21 
spans,  78  ft.  each. 

DorbfvJi  is  the  station  for  Bambura,  6  m. 
distant. 

Jungshai  is  the  station  for  Tha^^l^,  which 
is  12  m.  distant.  There  is  a  refreshment-room 
at  Jungshai. 

Kotn  is  the  station  for  Haidar&bdd,  4  m. 
distant.  There  is  a  refireshment-room  at 
Kotri. 

N.B.— Madras  time,  which  is  62  minutes  in 
advance  of  Kardchi  mean-time,  is  kept  at  all 
stations. 

Jhrbafi  and  Bambura, — Bambura  is 
supposed  by  the  natives  to  be  tlie  site 
of  the  most  ancient  seaport  in  Sindli. 
It  may  have  been  the  ancient  Debal, 
the  first  city  captured  by  Mui^ammad 
K^im,  having  its  name  from  a  temple 
in  the  fort  of  great  celebrity.  It  is 
unquestionably  a  place  of  great  anti- 
quity, and  the  remains  of  ramparts, 
bastions,  towers,  etc.,  prove  its  former 
importance.  Many  coins  also  have  at 
different  times  been  found  among  its 
ruins.  It  is  in  H.  lat.  24'  4(r  and  E. 
long.  67"  41'.  The  town  of  Gharo  is 
about  3  m.  to  the  E. 

ThaUhd*^(TAiia.)  is  a  town  of  7951 
inhab.,  of  whom  3874  are  Muslims, 
and  amongst  them  are  some  Saiyids 

*  The  Government  Gcusetteer  of  Sivdh,  pub- 
lished in  1874,  has  many  shortcomings. 
Amongst  other  things  the  spelling  is  incor- 
rect. This  city  is  called  TattOf  or  Thato,  but 
this  form  is  not  Justified  by  inscriptions.  But 
the  Gcuxtteer  also  writes  Jama  Maa^jid,  Of 
what  use  is  it  to  reform  the  spelling  if  Oovem- 
ment  allows  snch  words  to  be  printed  ?  The 
Index  is  very  defective. 


of  great  respectability,  whose  families 
have  been  settled  hero  for  upwards 
of  3  centuries,  as  that  of  §abr  All 
Sh&h,  whose  ancestor  *A11    Shir  set- 
tled in  1520  A.D.    ^'  It  is  known  (says 
the  Gaaetteer)    amongst  the  inhabi- 
tants  as  Nagar   Thato,  and   is   the 
chief  town  of  a  T'aluka  of  the  same 
name.    It  is  situated  4  m.  to  the  W.  of 
the  right  or  W.  bank  of  the  Indus,  and 
built  on  ground  slightly  raised  by  the 
ruins  of  former  houses.     Fever  is  very 
common,    and   a  dreadful    mortality 
took  place  in  1839  in  the  British  Can- 
tonment.   According  to  Macmurdo,  it 
was  built  in  1522,  and  was  destroyed 
by  one  of  Akbar's  generals  in  1591. 
Hamilton,  who  visited  it  in  1699,  calls 
it  a  very  large  and  rich  city,  about  3  m. 
long  and  IJ  m.  broad.    He  states  that 
80,000  persons  had  just  before  his  visit 
died  of  the  plague,  and  that  it  was 
half  depopulated.     Fottinger    states 
that  when  N&dir  entered  at  the  head 
of  his  army  in  1742,  there  were  40,000 
weavers,    20,000  other  artisans,  and 
60,000  dealers  in  various  departments. 
In  1840  Capt.  Wood,  I.  N.,  estimated 
the  pop.  at  10,000.    In  1854  a  muni- 
cipality was  established,  which  has  an 
income  of  from  Bs.  8000  to  Bs.  9000. 
This  institution  has  much  improved 
the  town,  and  supports  a  Dispensary 
established  in  1866.    The  present  trade 
of  Thatthd  mostly  consists  of  silk  and 
cotton  manufactures.    The  Jjungis  or 
scarves  are  much  admired.    In  1758  a 
factory  was  established  here  by  the 
E.  I.  Company  and  withdra\vn  in  1775 ; 
i*e-established  in  1799,  and  again  given 
up.    There  is  a  tomb  on  the  ChikU 
hills  near  Thattha  not  far  from  the 
large  tombs  of  the  old  rulers  of  Sindh, 
erected  over  the  remains  of  a  gentle- 
man who  was  probably  connected  with 
the  factory.    The  epitaph  is  as  fol- 
lows : — 

Here  Lyes  the  Manes 

of  Edward  Cooke,  who 

was  talcen  out  of  the 

World  in  the  Flower  of 
his  age,  a  Person  of  Great 
Merit,  and  in  Great  Esteem 
and  much  Lamented  by  all 

his  Mends,  learned  in 
many  languages,  of  great 
Humanity,  a  soimd  judg- 
ment, and  of  a  Generous 


392 


EoiUe  39»--'Bomhay  to  Karachi  and  Kotri,        Sect.  II. 


Disposition,  who  depart- 
ed this  Life  the  8th  May, 
1743. 
^tatis  sutti  21. 

As  blooming  lilies  Grace  the  Field, 

So  for  a  day  they  shine, 
Like  him  to  Ood  they  yield 

Their  lives,  bat  not  Uieir  Names  resign. 

To  whose  memory  his  Servant 
Erected  tiiis  Tomb. 

This  inscription  had  suffercMl  much 
from  weather,  and  would  perhaps  by 
this  time  have  wholly  perished,  but  Sir 
"W.  Merewether,  when  Commissioner  of 
Bindh,  had  it  completely  and  well  re- 
stored, and  it  will  probably  now  last 
another  century  at  least.  The  affec- 
tionate fidelity  of  the  servant  who 
erected  the  tomb,  but  would  not  parade 
his  own  name,  is  deserving  of  lasting 
remembrance. 

The  most  remarkable  sights  at  That- 
th&  are  the  Jdm*i  Maitjid,  or  Grand 
Mosque ;  the  manufactures  of  silk 
lungU  and  stamped  cottons  ;  the  Besi- 
dency  where  Mr.  John  Crowe  resided, 
and  his  tomb  ;  the  tombs  at  the  Mak- 
kAU  Hill ;  Pir  Pattan  and  KalyAn  Kot. 
The  Grand  Moaquc  is  situated  near 
the  centre  of  the  town.  It  was  begun 
by  Shdh  Jahdn,  in  1067  A.H.  =  1647 
A.D.,  and  was  finished  by  Aurangzib 
in  1072  A.H.  =  1661  A.D.*  It  has  been  a 
magnificent  edifice,  but  is  now  much 
decayed.  It  is  315  ft.  long  by  190  ft. 
broad,  and  is  built  of  baked  bricks  and 
mortar.  The  inner  plaster  is  glazed  in 
blue  and  white,  which  has  a  beautiful 
appearance  when  fresh.  The  roof  is 
suimounted  by  100  domes,  each  painted 
in  a  different  way.  The  Inscriptions 
carved  round  the  great  stone  arch,  and 
those  upon  the  two  stones  on  which 
the  date  of  the  edifice  is  given,  are 
adniirably  executed  in  large  letters. 
Not  far  from  this  is  the  old  house  in- 
habited by  Mr.  Crowe,  the  first  Besi- 
dent  in  Sindh  deputed  by  the  British 
Government.  His  tomb  may  also  be 
seen  outside  the  walls.  The  Makalli 
Hill  Cemetery  is  situated  about  a  mile 
and  a  half  to  the  W.  of  the  town.  The 
range  runs  fi*om  W.  to  N.,  being  8  m. 
long  and  under  a  mile  broad.  Its 
average  height  is  55  ft.    According  to 

'^     Autobiography  of  Lutftillah,"  p.  283. 


Lutf ullah,  the  name  is  derived  from  a 
fishwoman,  whose  shop  was  there  in 
days  of  yore  ;  but  Captain  Burton  sup- 
poses it  to  mean  Makkah-like,  and  to 
be  so  termed  to  denote  its  peculiar 
sanctity.  The  area  of  this  vast  ceme- 
tery is  said  to  be  6  sq.  m. ,  and  to  con- 
tain a  million  graves,  the  custom  of 
Muhammadans  requiring  that  all  tombs 
shall  be  single,  and  that  none  be  re- 
opened to  receive  more  than  one  body. 
This  place  began  to  be  used  for  inter- 
ment about  1500  A.D.,  when  Jdm  Ta- 
mdchi,  of  the  Samm^  tribe,  builfc  a 
mosque  upon  the  hills,  and  directed 
that  Pir  Panjah,  which  was,  up  to  that 
time,  the  great  burial  ground  of  xhe 
city,  should  be  forsaken.  The  summit 
of  the  rocky  ridge  looking  towards 
Thatthd  is  crowned  by  an  immense 
^rdgdhf  or  place  where  public  prayers 
are  recited  on  the  two  great  Mu^am- 
madan  festivals  called  'I'd  or  Easter. 
The  building  consists  of  a  long  wall, 
with  a  low  flight  of  steps  leading  to 
the  central  niche,  where  the  preacher 
stands,  and  tall  slender  minarets  of 
elegant  form  springing  from  either 
extremity.  Here  all  true  believers 
gather  twice  a-year.  This  Tdgdh  was 
built  by  Yiisuf  Khdn,  Governor  of 
Sindh.  The  inscription  is  in  beautiful 
large  Nasfalik  characters,  and  is  as 
follows  : — 

"Yiisuf  Khdn,  the  powerful  lord, 
erected  this  place  of  worship  as  high 
as  his  fortune.  The  year  of  its  com- 
pletion is  found  by  the  chronogram 

the  temple  of  Makkah  for  the 

virtuous,  1043  A.H."( -1633  A.D.). 

Behind  this  building  vaulted  domes, 
arches  and  towers,  porticoes,  gateways, 
and  vast  colonnades.rise  in  apparently 
endless  succession  above  sliapeless 
mounds  of  ruins.  Many  of  the  edifices 
must  have  been  the  protracted  labour 
of  years.  In  some  the  cupola  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  ring  of  smaller  domes, 
with  a  single  or  double  colonnade, 
enclosing  a  gallery  and  platform, 
broken  by  pointed  arches  in  each  of 
the  4  fronts.  Others  are  girt  by  lofty 
stone  walls,  forming  square  court- 
yards, with  entrance  gates  leading  to 
the  different  doorways.  Some  consist 
of  hea^^  marble  canopies,  on  fantastic 


Sect.  II.        Rmte  Z^.—TliaUM—Kalydn  Kot—Jirh 


393 


columns.  Many  are  built  of  coloured 
and  glazed  tiles  and  bricks,  the  work 
probably  of  Persian  bricklayers,  who 
are  renowned  for  their  skill.  So  skil- 
fully and  carefully  made  are  these 
brides,  that  each  rings  like  metal,  and 
breaks  as  clear  as  glass.  Nothing  can 
be  richer  than  the  appearance  of  the 
inscriptions  on  the  bricks,  in  large 
white  lettere,  upon  a  dark  purple 
ground.  The  most  remarkable  of  these 
tombs  are  the  following:  —  1.  The 
tombs  of  the  two  Vazlrs — Mlrza  Jdul 
and  Mlrz^  Gh^i,  his  son— 1095  A.H.» 
1683  A.D.  2.  A  JAm'i  Masjid,  built  by 
Tughral  — 1090  A.H.  =  1679  A.D.  3. 
Tombs  of  Mirz^  Tsd  and  Mirzd  'Indya- 
tu'llah,  Grovemors  of  the  place.  These 
are  magnificent  edifices  of  yellow 
marble,  beautifully  carved  with  flowers 
in  bas-relief,  and  surpassing  all  the 
buildings  of  the  place.  The  inscrip- 
tion gives  the  date  1058  A.H.=:1648 
A.D.  4.  The  tomb  of  a  Minister — 
1048  A.H.  =  1638  A.D.  5.  The  tomb  of 
NiiwAb  Amir  Khalll  Khan— 966  A.H. 
=  1658  A.D.  6.  The  tomb  of  Plr 
Asad,  the  Kd^i,  9  ft.  long,  date  il- 
legible. 7.  The  tomb  of  Saiyid  'Abd- 
'uUah,  son  of  Saiyid  'Abd'ul  KMir 
Gildni,  the  great  saint  of  Bagh- 
dad. 8.  The  tomb  of  Mirak  Mul^am- 
mad,  1059  A.H.  =  1649  A.D.  9.  The 
tomb  of  Shaikh  Ziya  — 1129  A.H.= 
1619  A.D.  10.  The  tomb  of  a  king, 
name  illegible— 1109  a,h. — 1697  A.D. 

11.  The  tomb  of  JdmNinda  andTamd- 
chl,  the  governors  of  the  Samm&  tribe, 
of  yellow  marble.  The  building  con- 
tains three  tombs — 925  A.H.==1519  A.D. 

12.  The  tomb  of  BAbd  Tsd  Langotl- 
band— 920  A.H.=1514  A.D.  13.  The 
tomb  of  Saiyid  'All  Shlrdzl,  the  saint 
of  the  Jokhia  Sindhl  tribe  —  1190 
A.H.=1776  A.D.  The  saint  died  in 
1672  A.D. 

Kalyan  Koi^  "Fort  Prosperous," — 
not  as  Sir  A.  Bumes  and  Lieut.  Wood 
write  it,  Kalan  Kot,  "  Great  Fort,"— 
is  called  by  the  Muslims  Tughlak&bdd. 
It  is  a  ruin,  somewhat  less  than  2  m. 
S.  of  Thatth^,  and  according  to  some  it 
was  erected  by  Alexander  the  Great, 
However  that  may  be,  its  antiquity 
cannot  be  doubted.  The  name  is  Sans- 
krit, and  from  its  plan  it  may  be  fairly 


inferred  that  it  was  built  before  the 
use  of  cannon.  The  round  towers*  of 
mud,  revetted  with  kiln-burnt  brick, 
which  break  the  line  of  the  outer  cur- 
tain, are  within  easy  bow-shot  of  one 
another.  The  eneeiwte  contains  a  vast 
ten'cpleinej  in  the  form  of  a  parallelo- 
gram, in  obtaining  earth  for  which 
the  large  tank  below  the  ruins  was 
probably  excavated.  Within  are  masses 
of  masonry  shaken  by  time  or  earth- 
quakes into  fantastic  shapes,  resem- 
bling at  a  distance  huge  red  rocks ; 
mounds  of  clay  and  chopped  straw 
used  in  this  country  as  plaster ;  a  few 
ruined  walls  and  a  domed  tomb,  in 
which  many  pigeons  make  their  nests. 
The  old  cemetery  near  Thatthd,  called 
Pir  Pan j  ah,  has  never  been  worthily 
described.  Some  account  of  the  re- 
presentatives of  the  ancient  families  at 
^hatthd  is  also  a  desideratum.  Thus 
Sdbir  'All  Sh6h  is  the  hereditary  Saiyid 
of  the  Grand  Mosque,  and  holds  a 
grant  from  Akbar  for  the  support  of 
this  building,  which  grant  has  been 
confiimed  by  Mr.  Frere. 

Jirk— This  place  is  12  m.  S.E.  of  the 
Meting  Station.  Those  who  steam  up 
the  river  from  Thatthd  to  Jirk  when 
the  Indus  is  in  flood,  behold  a  magni- 
ficent sight.  The  monarch  of  Indian 
rivers  then  pours  down  with  a  strength 
and  velocity  which  it  is  truly  grand 
to  witness.  The  large  native  barges 
which  are  tracked  up  against  the  cur- 
rent sometimes  break  adrift,  and  are 
whirled  like  feathers  down  the  stream, 
perhaps  to  be  wrecked  on  some  shoal, 
or  dashed  on  the  opposite  bank.  In 
some  places  violent  eddies  are  formed, 
in  others  lalvars  or  rapids,  with  which 
nothing  but  steam  can  contend.  The 
banks  are  lined  with  the  dense  woods, 
which  were  once  the  SiiiltcLrgdlis,  or 
hunting  preserves  of  the  Amirs,  and 
which,  b^g  a  barrier  to  the  encroach- 
ments of  the  desert  sand,  and  pro- 
ductive and  retentive  of  moisture, 
were  of  infinite  service  to  the  country. 
The  land  route  presents  nothing 
remarkable.  Jirit  itself  is  the  first 
town  the  traveller  in  Sindh  encounters 
not  built  on  the  alluvial  flat  formed 

*.  Burton's  "Sindh,"  vol.  i.,  p.  106. 


394 


Eoute  39. — Bombay  to  Kardchi  and  Kotri*        Sect.  II. 


by  the  Indus.  It  occupies  the  summit 
of  an  irregular  height,  which  projects 
into  the  river  and  forms  a  bfurier  to 
it  against  its  encroachments  west- 
ward. This  was  the  station  of  the 
Camel  eorpt  raised  by  Sir  C.  Napier, 
and  subsequently  disbanded  by  Go- 
vernment, on  account  of  its  enormous 
expense.  Here  A'ghd  Kh&n,  a  Persian 
nobleman  and  lineal  descendant  of  the 
Ism'ailiyah  chiefs,  was  placed  as  com- 
mandant after  the  battle  of  Miy&nl  by 
the  conqueror,  and  after  giving  exces- 
sive umbrage  to  the  surrounding  popu- 
lation, was  attacked  by  the  Biliichis 
and  driven  out  of  the  place.*  At 
Jirk,  Lower  Sindh  terminates,  and 
Wichelo,  or  Middle  Sindh,  commences. 
Some  ruins  may  be  seen  here,  and 
have  not  been  as  yet  properly  de- 
scribed. 

JBdidardbdd  (Hydrabad),  formerly 
called  Mrankof,  "Water-fort,"  or  "  the 
fort  of  Nlran,"  is  the  capital  of  Sindh, 
and  has  a  population  (census  of  1872) 
of  35,272  inhabitants.  It  is  situated 
4  m.  E.  of  the  E.  bank  of  the  Indus, 
on  a  high  part  of  the  rocky  ridge 
called  the  Ganjah  Hills,  in  an  island 
formed  by  the  Indus  and  the  Fulell,  a 
branch  which,  leaving  the  main  stream 
12  m.  above  the  town,  rejoins  it  15  m. 
below.  The  modern  city  of  Qaidari- 
bid  was  founded  by  Ghuldm  Sh&h 
Kalhora  in  1768.  His  tomb  is  at  the 
N.  W.  of  the  plateau  on  which  the  town 
stands. 

There  is  a  steam  ferry  at  Kotrf  and 
Gidii  Bandar,  which  is  the  place  op- 
posite on  the  1.  b.  of  the  Indus. 

The  routes  from  Kotrl  to  £[aidar&- 
bAd  are  two.  The  more  direct  is  to 
cross  to  Gidii  Bandar,  where  there  is 
a  jetty,  and  then  proceed  to  Qaidard- 
hid,  3  m.,  by  the  Bellasis  road.  On 
this  road  is  the  Lunatic  Asylum,  which 
can  hold  138  patients.  It  owes  its 
origin  to  the  munificence  of  Sir  Kdtisji 
Jah&nglr  Beadymoney,  who  gave 
Bs.  50,000  towards  its  erection,  and 
Government  added  Bs.  8000.  There  is  a 
T.  B.  at  Gidii  Bandar.  The  other  route 
is  to  drop  down  the  river  to  the  Ih^ 
trenoJied    Camp,  now  called  Mir  jo 

*  Burton's  •*  Sindh/'  vol.  i.,  p.  196. 


Tdndo,  from* the  circumstance  that  one 
of  the  ex-Amirs  resides  there,  where, 
on  the  15th  of  February,  1843,  Major 
Outram,  with  the  Light  Company  of 
H.  M.  22nd  Begt.,  commanded  by 
Capt.  Conway,  gsdlantly  defended 
himself  for  4  hours  against  the  attacks 
of  a  large  body  of  Biliichis,  and,  on 
his  ammunition  failing,  retired  in  good 
order  to  the  Planet  and  Satellite 
steamers,  which  covered  the  retreat 
by  the  fire  of  some  small  cannon.  The 
entrenchment,  which  is  still  visible, 
though  much  overgrown  with  jungle, 
was  so  weak  as  to  afford  little  cover, 
and  the  trifling  loss  with  which  a 
single  company  maintained  so  long  a 
struggle  against  a  strong  division  of 
the  Amir's  army,  convincingly  shows 
how  utterly  unable  that  army  was  to 
resist  disciplined  troops.  The  En- 
trenched] Camp  contains  "  a  humble 
building,  somewhat  in  the  form  of  a 
six-dozen  claret  chest,  magnified  and 
whitewashed,"*  which  was  once  the 
Agency,  where  the  Besident  in  Sindh, 
before  the  appearance  of  Sir  C.  Napier, 
resided.  From  this  to  the  fort  of  ^ai- 
dar&bdd  is  about  3  m.  by  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  park-like  avenues  in 
India,  and  the  distant  appearance  of 
the  town  is  very  picturesque.  On  the 
left  is  a  hill  crowned  by  a  native  forti- 
fication, with  the  gaudy  shrine  of  Sh&h 
Makkdl,  and  a  cluster  of  houses  at  its 
foot  On  the  right  is  the  burial  ground, 
a  square  enclosure,  above  the  walls  of 
which  appear  the  tops  of  many  tombs. 
In  front,  the  road  that  separates  the 
town  from  its  protecting  fort,  winds 
up  a  steep  and  stony  hill.  The  tomb 
of  Sh4h  Makk&l,  so  called  from  his 
having  madef  several  pilgrimages  to 
Makkah,  is  one  of  the  most  celebrated 
Ziy&ratg&hSy  or  objects  of  pilgrimage, 
in  Sindh.  One-third  of  the  plateaa  on 
which  j^aidardbdd  stands,  which  is 
half  a  mile  long  and  700  yds.  broad,  is 
occupied  by  the  fort,  one-third  by  tiie 
native  town,  and  the  rest  is  waste. 
The  houses  in  the  native  town  are  built 
of  mud,  with  flat  roofs,  which  have  a 


*  Bnrton's  "  Sindh,"  p.  210. 
t  Capt.  Burton  famishes  a  Indicrous  oud 
apocryphal  legond  ahout  this  worthy. 


Sect.  II. 


Jioute  S9.'^ffaidardbdd. 


395 


very  mean  appearance,  but  are  at  least 
cooler  than  stone.  There  are  about 
2500  houses  outside  the  fortress,  and  a 
like  number  within  the  walls. 

I%e  Ibrt  of  Ilaidar&bdd  is  of  a 
very  irregular  form,  corresponding 
with  the  natural  shape  of  the  rock,  on 
which  a  wall  of  burnt  brick  from  15 
to  30  ft.  high,  thick  at  the  base,  but 
tapering  upwards,  has  been  built.  It 
supports  a  quantity  of  earth  which 
has  been  piled  against  it  inside, 
and  is  pierced  with  numerous  loop- 
holes, many  of  which  serve  as  drains. 
Embrasures  for  large  guns  there  are 
scarce  any,  and  though  the  bastions  at 
the  salient  angles  give  the  fortress  an 
appearance  of  strength,  a  few  well- 
directed  shots  would  demolish  any 
part ;  and  a  most  competent  judge  hza 
pronounced  that  it  is  *'one  of  the 
weakest  of  the  strong-seeming  for- 
tresses of  this  part  of  Asia."*  In  ap- 
pearance, however,  this  castle  is  very 
picturesque.!  The  spear-head  battle- 
ment of  Persia  runs  along  the  crest, 
to  shelter  matchlock-men,  and  the 
ornamental  star  of  stone  above  each 
loop-hole  is  highly  decorative.  The 
whole  enceinte  is  about  three-quarters 
of  a  mile  in  circumference,  and  is  to- 
wards the  S.  of  the  plateau ;  and  at 
the  8.  extremity  of  all  is  the  huge 
round  tower,  erroneously  supposed  to 
have  been  the  treasury  of  the  Amirs. 
On  the  N.  side,  a  trench  separates  the 
citadel  from  the  town.  It  is  crossed 
by  a  bridge  leading  to  one  of  these 
intricate  gateways  which  have  so  often 
yielded  to  a  coup  de  main.  Every- 
where else  is  level  ground.  Where 
the  walls  do  not  rise  immediately  from 
the  edge  of  the  declivity,  the  defence 
is  strengthened  by  a  ditch  10  ft.  wide 
and  8  ft.  deep.  The  rock  is  too  soft  to 
admit  of  being  scarped,  and  slopes  so 
gently,  that  if  the  wall  were  breached, 
the  rubbish  would  rest  on  the  face  of 
the  hill  and  afford  footing  for  a  storm- 
ing party.  Within  the  walls  of  the 
fort  were  formerly  the  residences  of 
the   principal  Amirs,  with   those  of 

*  Burton's  "Sindh/*  p.  218. 
t  A  very  accurate  yievr  of  the  Sindhlan 
capital  will  be  found  in  Bumes'  "  Bukhdri." 


their  families  and  numerous  depend- 
ants. The  area,  which  is  considerable, 
had  its  streets,  its  mosques,  and  public 
buildings,  and  was  quite  a  town,  with 
a  dense  population.  These  buildings 
have  now  almost  disappeared,  and  the 
Commissary  of  Ordnance  and  the  Ex- 
ecutive Engineer  divide  the  fort  be- 
tween them,  as  an  arisenal  and  store- 
house. Mir  Na^lr  Kh4n's  palace  alone 
is  kept  up,  and  is  occupied  by  the 
Commissioner  in  Sindh,  on  his  annual 
tour,  and  by  other  officers  of  rank, 
when  visiting  Haidar&b4d.  Sir  C. 
Napier  frequently  resided  in  this 
palace,  and  in  it  he  held  his  Grand 
Darbdr  on  May  24th  and  25th,  1844, 
when  every  chief  in  Sindh  came  from 
far  and  near  to  submit  himself  to  the 
conqueror.  Most  of  the  buildings  in 
the  fort  were  painted  within  and  with<* 
out  in  fresco.  The  mosques  were  faced 
with  H^U  tiles  of  the  gayest  colours, 
so  that  the  whole  had  a  most  goreeous 
appearance.  Time  and  neglect  nave 
made  sad  changes ;  but  there  is  one 
room  in  Mir  Na^ir  Kh&n*s  palace, 
styled  the  Painted  Chamber,  which  is 
still  tolerably  perfect,  and  gives  some 
idea  of  what  the  effect  must  have  been 
when  all  was  uninjured.  There  is  not 
a  square  inch  in  this  chamber  that  is 
not  illuminated  in  the  richest  colour- 
ing, and  yet  so  well  are  the  colours 
harmonized,  that  the  general  effect  is 
excellent.  In  the  recesses,  various 
historical  subjects  connected  with  the 
T^pur  family  are  delineated.  In  one 
recess  is  a  very  indifferently  executed 
picture  of  an  English  lady  and  gentle- 
man sipping  claret  out  of  tumblers, 
the  work  of  a  native  artist,  who  obli- 
terated one  of  the  least  popular  sub- 
jects, and  introduced  these  figures, 
which  are  intended  for  Colonel  Outram 
and  his  wife.  Bound  the  chamber  is 
a  balcony  commanding  a  fine  pano- 
ramic view,  and  on  the  wooden  b^us- 
trade  are  two  sockets,  cut  by  order  of 
Sir  C.  Napier.  A  telescope  placed  in 
one  i)oints  to  the  battle-field  of  Mi^i, 
and  if  moved  to  the  other  shows  the 
place  where  the  victory  of  Dabo  or 
IjEaidardbdd  was  gained.  Above  the 
gateway  of  the  fort  is  a  room  which 
looks  down  on  the  principal  bdzdr. 


396 


Route  Z^.-rBombay  to  KardcM  and  Kotri.        Sect.  II: 


From  this  room,  in  the  afternoon,  it  is 
worthwhile  to  watch  the  motley  crowds 
of  all  nations,  in  various  costumes, 
which  throng  the  mart  below.  The 
visit  to  the  fort  should  conclude  with 
a  walk  round  the  ramparts  and  an 
ascent  to  the  top  of  the  circular  tower, 
whence  a  fine  view  of  the  suiTounding 
country  with  the  Fuleli,  on  one  side, 
winding  through  the  dusty  plain,  and 
on  the  other  side,  of  the  rapid  Indus, 
with  its  buttress  of  rock  in  the  back- 
groimd,  will  be  obtainecL 

Leaving  the  fort,  the  traveller  should 
pass  through  the  b^dr  to  liie  market- 
place, around  which  new  I^aidardbdd 
)8  fast  rising  up.  As  the  old  town  was 
crowded  and  difficult  to  improve,  the 
municipality  laid  out  new  streets,  and 
erected  a  market-place,  a  school,  and 
other  public  buildings,  and  a  new  town 
has  sprung  up  and  is  rapidly  increas- 
ing in  this  locality.  Beyond  the 
market-place  are  the  tombs  of  the 
Tdlpurs  ;  beyond  these,  the  Jail ;  and 
further  still,  the  tombs  of  the  Kalhoras. 
The  tombs  of  the  Tdlpurs  are  very 
beautiful,  but  are  not  in  such  exquisite 
taste  as  that  of  Ghvldm  Shd?i  Kalhora, 
the  description  of  which  may  serve 
for  all.  On  entering  the  enclosure  by 
a  small  but  richly  carved  door,  the 
visitor  is  impressed  by  the  beautiful 
symmetry  of  the  mausoleum,  and  the 
religious  feeling  breathed  in  the  deco- 
rations. Latticed  windows  in  the  lofty 
dome  sparingly  admit  the  light,  and 
shed  a  subdued  lustre  over  an  exqui- 
sitely carved  marble  tomb,  at  the  same 
time  revealing  the  rich  fresco  paint- 
ings on  the  walls,  without  giving  them 
too  much  prominence.  The  walls  have 
in  many  places  cracked,  and  bulge 
out;  but  Government  hais  granted  a 
sum  of  money  to  arrest  further  decay, 
and  to  repair  if  possible  the  injury 
already  done  to  this  noble  work  of  art. 
The  building  is  quadrangular,  with  a 
dome  in  the  centre  resembling  in 
miniature  that  which  has  already  been 
described  in  the  account  of  the  Muslim 
tombs  of  Bljdpiir.  In  decoration  it 
is  not  inferior  to  any  edifice  of  the 
sort  in  India,  the  TAj  alone  excepted. 
Over  one  of  the  archways  is  an  in- 
scription  in  Persian,  which  is  thus 


translated.      {Gaz,   of    Sindh^  page 
203)  :— 

Ah  !  the  uukindness  of  the  ignoble  heavens ! 

Ah  !  the  ft^aks  of  the  azure  tirmament ! 

The  valiant  cavalier  of  the  race -course  of 

fame ; 
The  monarch  of  the  capital  of  the  Empire  : 
The  Lights  of  the  Sun  of  the  zodiac  of  honor. 
Both  worlds  paid  allegiance  to  him  ; 
By  Divine  grace  his  mandates 
Went  forth  in  heaven  and  on  earth  ; 
Kings  entreated  at  his  doors, 
Crowned  heads  prostrated  themselves  before 

him ; 
Tlie  emperor  of  the  world,  Ghulam  Shah ; 
The  sky  kissed  the  earth  before  him. 
He  passed  away  ttom  the  world  into  Paradise, 
He  received  his  guerdon  at  the  door  of  God, 
A  dome  over  the  tomb  of  that  monarch 
Was  erected  like  the  vault  of  tiie  starry  skies. 
It  was  as  bright  as  the  palace  of  paradise, 
As  delightful  as  Eden. 
For  tlie  date  of  his  death  the  imagination  of 

SarafMiz 
Was  busily  engaged  in  search. 
Meanwhile-the  Divine  Messenger  exclaimed 
•  For  ever  in  heaven ! " 

The  above  verses  were  written  by, 
or  under  the  orders  of,  his  son  &irafr4z, 
whose  tomb  adjoins,  and  was  built  in 
1785  A.D.  It  is  painted  inside,  and  is 
in  good  repair.  There  are  also  4  tombs 
of  the  Tdlpur  famUy  ;  that  of  Mir 
Karam  'All,  a  domed  rectangular  build- 
ing, with  a  turret  at  each  comer,  built 
in  1812,  with  marble  fretwork,  and 
roofed  with  coloui-ed  tiles ;  that  of 
Mirs  Murdd  All,  Ni!ir  Muhammad, 
Na^r  Khdn  and  Shdhddd  Kh'an,  built 
in  1847,  with  white  marble  tombs 
inside  ;  those  of  Mir  GhulAm  Sh^  and 
Fa?l  *A11,  erected  in  1865  ;  and  that 
of  Mir  Muhammad,  built  in  1857.  All 
the  Tdlpur  tombs  are  kept  in  good 
order,  except  Earam  'All's,  at  the  cost 
of  surviving  members  of  the  family. 

The  Cantonment  lies  to  the  N.W.  of 
the  town.  There  is  a  fine  range  of  bar- 
racks for  Europeans,  built  in  1850-51, 
consisting  of  12  blocks,  each  241  ft. 
long  and  73  broad.  Not  far  off,  over- 
looking the  Gidd  Bandar  road,  is  the 
church  of  St.  Thomas,  built  in  1860,  at 
a  cost  of  Rs.  45,000.  It  is  118  ft.  long 
and  58  broad,  and  its  tower  is  75  ft. 
high  to  the  top  of  the  belfry.  It  can 
hold  600  persons.  It  has  several  me- 
morial windows,  and  on  the  N.  side  of 
the  Communion  table  is  a  brass  show- 
ing the  number  of  officera  and  men 


Sect.  IL 


BotUe  39. — Haiddrdhdd. 


397 


who  fell  at  Miydnl  and  Dabo.  Two 
other  tombs  of  the  Kalhoras  are  al- 
ready in  riiins  and  beyond  all  hope  of 
restoration. 

The  Jail  is  worth  a  visit  to  those 
who  are  curions  in  prison  discipline. 
It  can  contain  about  400  prisoners. 
The  Persian  carpets  and  rags  made  by 
the  convicts  are  very  handsome  and 
good.  Mats,  also,  capital  table  cloths, 
towels,  napkins,  and  a  great  variety  of 
cotton  cloths  are  manufactured  in  the 
prison,  the  discipline  of  which  is  much 
to  be  commended. 

Manufactures. — Qaidardb^d  is  fa- 
mous for  its  embroideries  in  silk  and 
gold  and  its  silver  tissues.  The  fabric 
of  Khair  Muhammad  is  the  most  cele- 
brated. He  gained  a  medal  at  the 
London  Exhibition  of  1861,  and  ano- 
ther at  the  Paris  Exhibition  of  1856. 
There  are  four  or  five  other  famous 
fabricants,  each  working  with  a  differ- 
ent stitch.  A  table-cover  costs  from  50 
to  100  rupees,  according  to  size  ;  chair- 
covers  from  25  to  40  rupees.  Book- 
covers,  slippers,  etc.,  are  made  of  end- 
less varieties.  All  these  are  worked  on 
a  simple  wood  frame,  similar  to  that 
used  by  ladies  for  worsted  work.  JEna- 
mding, — In  the  Amirs*  time  there  was 
a  great  demand  for  this  manufacture, 
the  principal  Sard&rs  vying  with  each 
other  ia  the  beauty  and  costliness  of 
their  swords,  matchlocks  and  horse- 
trappings,  which  were  profusely  de- 
corated with  enamelled  ornaments.  In 
enameling  on  gold,  the  colours  red 
and  crimson  are  chiefly  used,  and  blue 
and  green  are  the  favourite  colours 
with  silver.  This  titide  is  now  on  the 
decline,  as  is  also  that  of  manufoctur- 
inganns.  Haidaribid  was  renowned 
for  its;  sword-blades  and  matchlock 
barrels,  but  there  are  now  only  one  or 
two  families  who  work  in  this  line. 
Seal  Engraving  is  a  business  of  great 
importance  in  the  East,  where  the  Per- 
sians and  the  artizans  of  Dilli  are 
celebrated  for  their  skill  in  this  craft. 
At  Qaidardbdd,  Fazl  ^Ali  Vingur  is 
the  best  engraver.  He  works  on  car- 
nelian,  silver  and  other  metals,  gene- 
rally in  the  Persian  or  Arabic  charac- 
ter. He  obtained  a  modal  for  his  seals 
at  the  Exhibition  of  1851.    A  small 


seal,  with  the  purchaser's  name  in  Per- 
sian, mounted  on  a  handle  of  enamel- 
work,  is  a  good  memento  of  j^aidard- 
b&d,  as  combining  two  of  its  most  noted 
manufactures.  iMcquered-work  is  ad- 
mirably executed  at  j^aidardb&d.  The 
Hospital  is  a  palace  in  appearance  and 
size,  but  so  ill  adapted  to  the  climate, 
that  the  medical  officer  in  charge,  with 
pankhns  and  every  appliance  for  re- 
ducing the  heat,  is  unable  to  keep  the 
temperature  below  100"  for  the  greater 
part  of  the  hot  season.  In  short  this 
magnificent  and  costly  structure  is 
worse  than  useless,  and  is  justly  enti- 
tled to  the  name  of  Sir  C.  Napier's 
Folly.  The  Roman  Catholics  have  had 
a  church  at  Qaidar^b&d  from  the  time 
of  the  conquest ;  but  12  years  elapsed 
without  the  foundation-stone  of  a  place 
of  Protestant  worship  being  laid  by  the 
Government  of  Sindh.  If  the  traveller 
has  time,  he  should  drive  or  ride  down 
the  Bella^^  Road,  along  the  bank  of 
the  river,  and  up  by  the  entrenched 
camp  to  the  Bandar  Road  Avenue, 
which  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  ave- 
nues in  India.  The  JBellagijt  Road  was 
made  and  planted  by  Mr.  A.  F.  Bella- 
sis,  late  Collector  and  Magistrate  of 
l^aidar&bdd. 

The  climate  of  ^aidardbdd  is  very 
hot  and  unhealthy.  The  average  rain- 
fall is  only  6  inches,  while  that  of  Ka- 
rachi is  5. 

Before  leaving  ^aidar&bdd  the  tra- 
veller would  doubtless  wish  to  visit 
the  famous  battle  fields  of  Mi&ni  and 
Dabo  which  decided  the  fate  of  Sindh. 
The  three  places  Qaidaribid,  Mi^ni, 
and  Dabo  form  a  triangle ;  Midni 
being  4i  m.  to  the  N.W.  of  ^aidard- 
bM  and  Dabo,  4^  m.  to  the  S.E.  ol 
Midni,  and  5^  m.  to  the  E.  of  l^aidar- 
dbdd.  The  whole  journey,  therefore, 
might  be  made  in  a  day,  starting  very 
early  in  the  morning.  The  account  of 
the  battles  had  perhaps  best  be  given 
in  the  words  of  the  victor,  Sir  C.  Na- 
pier, whose  despatch,  dated  February 
1843,  is  as  follows  :  *'  Battle  of  Mianl. 
— The  forces  under  my  command  have 
gained  a  decisive  victory  over  the 
army  of  the  Mlrs  of  Upper  and  Lower 
Sindh.  A  detailed  account  of  the  va- 
rious circumstances  which  led  to  this 


398 


SotUe  39.— >A>m&ay  to  Kardchi  and  Kotri.        Sect.  II. 


action  does  not  belong  to  the  limited 
space  of  a  hasty  dispatch ;  I  therefoie 
begin  with  the  transactions  belonging 
to  the  battle.  On  the  14th  instant  the 
whole  body  of  the  Mlrs,  assembled  in 
full  darbdr,  formally  affixed  their  seals 
to  the  draft  treaty.  On  leaving  the 
darbdr  Major  Outram  and  his  compa- 
nions were  in  great  peril ;  a  plot  had 
been  laid  to  murder  them  all.  They 
were  saved.by  the  guards  of  the  Mlrs ; 
but  the  next  day  (the  15th)  the  resi- 
dence of  Major  Outram  was  attacked 
by  8000  of  the  Mlrs*  troops,  headed  by 
one  or  more  of  the  Mlrs.  The  report 
of  this  nefarious  transaction  I  have  the 
honour  to  enclose.  I  heard  of  it  at 
H41&,  at  which  place  the  fearless  and 
distinguished  Major  Outram  joined  me, 
with  his  brave  companions,  in  the 
stem  and  extraordinary  defence  of  his 
residence  against  so  overwhelming  a 
force,  accompanied  by  six  pieces  of 
cannon.  On  the  16th  I  marched  to 
Mat^ri.  Having  there  ascertained  that 
the  Mirs  were  in  position  at  Mi4ni, 
ten  miles  distant,  to  the  number  of 
22,000  men,  and  well  knowing  that  a 
delay  for  reinforcements  would  both 
strengthen  their  confidence  and  add  to 
their  numbers,  already  seven  times 
that  which  I  commanded,  I  resolved 
to  attack  them,  and  we  marched  at  4 
A.M.  on  the  morning  of  the  17th.  At 
eight  o'clock  the  advanced  guard  dis- 
covered their  camp ;  at  nine  we  formed 
in  order  of  battle,  about  2800  men  of 
all  arms,  and  12  pieces  of  artillery. 
We  were  now  within  range  of  the  ene- 
my's guns,  and  fifteen  pieces  of  artil- 
lery opened  upon  us  and  were  answered 
by  our  cannon.  The  enemy  were  very 
strongly  posted  ;  woods  were  on  their 
flanks,  which  I  did  not  think  could  be 
turned.  These  two  woods  were  joined 
by  the  dry  bed  of  the  Fuleli,  which 
had  a  high  bank.  The  bed  of  the  river 
was  nearly  straight  and  about  1200 
yards  in  length.  Behind  this  and  in 
both  woods  were  the  enemy  posted.  In 
front  of  their  extreme  right  and  on  the 
edge  of  the  wood  was  a  village.  Hav- 
ing made  the  best  examination  of  their 
position  which  so  short  a  time  per- 
mitted, the  artillery  were  posted  on 
the  right  of  the  line,  and  some  skir- 


mishers of  infantry,  with  the  Sindh 
Irregular  Horse,  were  sent  in  front  to 
try  and  make  the  enemy  show  his  face 
more  distinctly ;  we  then  advanced 
from  the  right  in  Echelon  of  battalions, 
refusing  the  left,  to  save  it  from  the 
fire  of  the  village.  The  9th  Bengal 
Light  Cavalry  formed  the  reserve  in 
the  rear  of  tlie  left  wing,  and  the 
Pun4  Horse,  together  with  four  com- 
panies of  infantry,  guarded  the  bag- 
gage. In  this  order  of  battle  we  ad- 
vanced, as  at  a  review,  across  a  fine 
plain  swept  by  the  cannon  of  the  ene- 
my. The  artillery  and  Her  Majesty's 
22nd  regiment  of  line  formed  the  lead- 
ing ^cheloftf  the  25th  Native  Infantry 
the  second,  the  12th  Native  Infantry 
the  third,  and  the  1st  Grenadier  Native 
Infantry  the  fourth.  The  enemy  was 
1000  yards  from  our  line,  which  soon 
traversed  the  intervening  space.  Our 
fire  of  musketry  opened  at  about  100 
yds.  from  the  bank,  in  reply  to  that  of 
the  enemy,  and  in  a  few  minutes  the 
engagement  became  general  along  the 
bank  of  the  river,  on  which  the  com- 
batants fought  for  about  three  hours  or 
more  with  great  fury,  man  to  man. 
Then,  my  Lord,  was  seen  the  supe- 
riority of  the  musket  and  bayonet  over 
the  sword  and  shield  and  matchlock. 
The  brave  Biluchis,  first  dischai'ging 
their  matchlocks  and  pistols,  dadied 
over  the  bank  with  desperate  resolu- 
tion ;  but  down  went  these  bold  and 
skilful  swordsmen  under  the  superior 
power  of  the  musket  and  bayonet.  At 
one  time,  my  Lord,  the  courage  and 
numbers  of  the  enemy  against  the 
22nd,  the  25th,  and  the  12th  regiments 
bore  heavily  in  that  part  of  the  battle. 
There  was  no  time  to  be  lost,  and  I 
sent  orders  to  the  cavalry  to  force  the 
right  of  the  enemy's  line.  This  order 
was  very  gallantly  executed  by  the 
9th  Bengal  Cavalry  and  the  Sindh 
Horse,  the  details  of  which  shall  be 
afterwards  stated  to  your  Lordship, 
for  the  struggle  on  our  right  and  cen- 
tre was  at  that  moment  so  fierce,  that 
I  could  not  go  to  the  left.  In  this 
charge  the  9th  Light  Cavalry  took  a 
standard  and  several  pieces  of  artil- 
lery, and  the  Sindh  Horse  took  the 
enemy's  camp,  from  which  a  vast  body 


Sect.  II. 


BatUe  S9. -^Ilaidardbdd. 


399 


of  their  cavalry  slowly  retired,  fight- 
ing. Lieutenant  Fitzgenild  gallantly 
pursued  them  for  two  miles,  and  1  un- 
derstand slew  three  of  the  enemy  in 
single  combat.  The  brilliant  conduct 
of  these  two  cavalry  regiments  decided, 
in  my  opinion,  the  crisis  of  the  action ; 
for,  from  the  moment  the  cavalry  was 
seen  in  the  rear  of  their  right  flank, 
the  resistance  of  our  opponents  slack- 
ened ;  the  22nd  regiment  forced  the 
bank,  the  25th  and  12th  did  the  same ; 
the  latter  regiment  capturing  several 
guns,  and  the  victory  was  decided. 
The  artillery  made  great  havoc  among 
the  dense  masses  of  the  enemy,  and 
diraaounted  several  of  their  guns.  The 
whole  of  the  enemy's  artillery,  ammu- 
nition, standards,  and  camp,  with  con- 
siderable stores  and  some  treasure,  were 
taken.''  The  British  force  having  been 
reinforced  by  troops  from  Sakkar  on 
the  22nd  March,  Sir  Charles  Napier, 
with  6000  men,  went  in  quest  of  the 
enemy  under  the  command  of  Shir  Mu- 
l^ammad  of  Mlrpur.  The  following  is  an 
extract  taken  from  Sir  Charles  Napier's 
report  of  the  battle  of  Dabo  :— **  The 
forces  under  my  command  marched 
from  Qaidar4b4d  this  morning  at  day- 
break. About  half -past  eight  o'clock 
we  discovered  and  attacked  the  army 
under  the  personal  command  of  the 
Mir  Sher  Muhammad,  consisting  of 
20,000  men  of  all  arms,  stronglv  posted 
behind  one  of  those  large  ncUahs  by 
which  the  country  is  intersected  in  all 
directions.  After  a  combat  of  about 
three  hours,  the  enemy  was  wholly  de- 
feated with  considerable  slaughter  and 
the  loss  of  all  his  standards  and  cannon. 
His  position  was  nearly  a  straight  Une ; 
the  ndlaU  was  formed  by  two  deep 
parallel  ditches,  one  20  ft.  wide  and  8 
ft.  deep,  the  other  42  ft.  wide  and  17 
ft.  deep,  which  had  been  for  a  long  dis- 
tance freshly  scarped,  and  a  banquette 
made  behind  the  bank  expressly  for 
the  occasion.  To  ascertain  the  extent 
of  his  line  was  extremely  difficult,  as 
his  left  did  not  appear  to  be  satisfac- 
torily defined,  but  he  began  moving  to 
his  right  when  he  perceived  that  the 
Briti^  force  outflanked  him  in  that 
direction.  Believing  that  this  move- 
ment had  drawn  him  from  that  part  of 


the  ndlah  which  had  been  prepared 
for  defence,  1  hoped  to  attack  his  right 
with  less  difficulty,  and  Major  Leslie's 
troop  of  Horse  Artillery  was  ordered 
to  move  forward  and  endeavour  to 
rake  the  ndlah;  the  9th  Light  Cavalry 
and  Pun4  Horse  advancing  in  line  on 
the  left  of  the  artillery,  which  was 
supported  on  the  right  by  Her  Majes- 
ty^s  22nd  regiment,  the  latter  being, 
however,  at  first  considerably  retired 
to  admit  of  the  oblique  fire  of  Leslie's 
troop.  The  whole  of  the  artillery  now 
opened  upon  the  enemy's  position,  and 
the  British  line  advanced  in  iohelon 
from  the  left.  Her  Majesty's  22nd 
regiment  leading  the  attack.  The 
enemy  was  now  perceived  to  move 
from  his  centre  in  considerable  bodies 
to  his  left,  apparently  retreating,  un- 
able to  sustain  the  cross  fire  of  the 
British  artilleiy;  on  seeing  which 
Major  Stack,  at  the  head  of  the  3rd 
cavalry,  under  command  of  Captain 
Delamain,  and  the  Sindh  Horse  under 
command  of  Captain  Jacob,  made  a 
brilliant  chaige  upon  the  enemy's  left 
flank,  crossing  the  riMah,  and  cutting 
down  the  retreating  enemy  for  several 
miles.  While  this  was  passing  on  the 
right.  Her  Majesty's  22nd  regiment, 
gallantly  led  by  Major  Poole,  who 
commanded  the  brigade,  and  Captain 
Gteorge,  who  commanded  the  corps, 
attacked  the  ndlah  on  the  left  with 
great  gallantry,  and,  I  regret  to  add, 
with  considerable  loss.  This  brave 
battalion  marched  up  to  the  ndlah 
under  a  heavy  fire  of  matchlocks,  with- 
out returning  a  shot  till  within  forty 
paces  of  the  entrenchment,  and  then 
stormed  it  like  British  soldiers.  The 
intrepidLieutenant  Coote first  mounted 
the  rampart,  seized  one  of  the  enemy's 
standards,  and  was  severely  wounded 
while  waving  it  and  cheering  on  his 
men.  Meanwhile,  the  Fund  Horse 
under  Capt.  Tait,  and  the  9th  caralir 
under  Major  Stoiy,  turned  the  enemy^s 
right  flank,  pursuing  and  cutting  down 
the  fugitives  for  several  miles.  Her 
Majesty's  22nd  regiment  was  well 
supported  by  the  batteries  conunanded 
by  Captains  Willoughby  and  Hutt, 
which  crossed  their  fire  with  that  of 
Major  Leslie.     Then  came  the  2nd 


400 


SotUe  iO.^'Ahmaddbdd  to  Mount  Ahu  Road.      Sect.  II. 


brigade  nnder  command  of  Major 
Woodbum,  bearing  down  into  action 
with  excellent  coolness.  It  consisted 
of  the  25th,  21st,  and  12th  regiments, 
under  the  command  of  Captains  Jack- 
son, Stevens,  and  Fisher,  respectively. 
These  regiments  were  strongly  sus- 
tained by  the  fire  of  Captain  Whiltie's 
battery,  on  the  right  of  which  were 
the  8th  and  6th  regiments  under  Majors 
Brown  and  ClibtSm.  These  two  corps 
advanced  with  the  regularity  of  a  re- 
view up  to  the  entrenchments,  their 
commanders,  mth  considerable  exer- 
tion, stopping  their  fire  on  seeing  that 
a  portion  of  the  SSindh  Horse  and  3rd 
cavalry  in  charging  the  enemy  had 
got  in  front  of  the  brigade.  The  battle 
was  decided  by  the  troop  of  Horse 
Artillery  and  Her  Majesty's  22nd 
regimenti" 


ROUTE    40. 

AHMADABAD  TO  MOUNT  ABU  BOAD. 

Although  the  important  railway 
connecting  Ahmad&bM,  and  therefore 
Bombay,  with  Ajmir  is  incomplete,  and 
much  remains  to  be  done  even  on  the 
part  on  which  trains  with  passengers 
are  actually  running,  viz.,  tvom.  A^mad- 
^b4d  to  P&lanpi!ir,  yet,  as  it  is  hoped 
that  in  December  next  the  line  will  be 
open  to  the  public  as  far  as  Mount 
Abii  Boad,  that  is,  to  the  full  limit  of 
the  Bombay  Pre»ddency,  in  a  N.E. 
direction,  the  stations  are  here  given. 


ill 


as 


31 
16 


I     26^ 
!  I     36 


~^ — TiA 
2  C  ^  ■ 

.2  pug 


!    I 


42i 


I     444 
!     55} 
64 


72 
82^ 


8i 
6 

6} 


Names  of 
Stations. 


Remabks. 


A]!)imaddb4d 

Sdlmnnati   . 
Khotliar 
Kalol      .    . 


\Q}t   Dangunva    . 
9* 


^ 


11 
lis 


8 
lOj 


Jagodan  .    . 
Maisaiia 


Bhandu 
Anjah  . 
Sidhpur 


aidpf  . 
Palatipiir 


Chitrasni     . 
Roll 
Sarotra 
Mount  A'bu 
Road 


T.B.lm.toN.W. 

fh>in  station. 
Sta.  on  r.)of  line. 
Sta.  on  r.  ot  line. 
T.B.  i  m.  N.W. 

f^om    station. 

Sta.  on  1.  of  1. 
Sta.  on  r.  of  line. 
Sta.  on  r.  of  line. 
T.B.  I  m.   8.E. 

from    station. 

Sta.  on  r.  of  1. 
Sta.  on  1.  of  line. 
Sta.  on  r.  of  line. 
T.  B.  \  m.  S.E. 
I  from  station. 
\  Sta.  on  r.  of  1. 
Sta.  on  r.  of  line. 
T.B.  \  m.  8.W. 

from    station. 

Hts^.  on  r.  of  1. 

el 


T.B.      .. 


\. 


Sect.  11.       Houte  40a. — Bombay  to  Mount  Ahoo  {Ahti). 


400a 


ROUTE   40a.* 

BOMBAY  AKD  AHMEDABAD  TO  MOUNT  ABOO  (ABU). 


BAJPUTANA-MALWA   LINK. 

1 

Stations. 

Trains. 

Fares  from  Ahmedabad. 

SdCLby 

3d  CI.  by 

Mail. 

Mix. 

Ist 

2nd 

Mail 

ottier 

1^ 

Class. 

Class. 

trains. 

trains. 

A.M. 

A.M. 

us.   L.    RS.  ji. 

BS.  L 

BS.     L. 

Ahmedabad  B.  B.  .                  arr. 

7.20 

„          B.  R.     R             dep. 

9.  0 

10.  0 

4 

SalMtnnati  Junction 

9.21 

10.23 

0    6 

0    3 

0    1 

0    1 

10 

Khodiar 

9.43 

10.56 

0  15 

0    8 

0    2 

0    2 

16 

Kalal       ... 

10.  4 

11.24 

P.M. 

1    8 

0  12 

0    4 

0    3 

27 

Dangarwa 

10.40 

12.12 

2    8  114 

0    6 

0    5 

86 

Jagudan  

— 

12.53 

3    6 

1  11 

0    8 

0    6 

43 

Mehaana 

11.33 

1.24 

4    0 

2    0 

0  10 

0    7 

49 

Bhandu  

11.53 

P.M. 

1.52 

4  10 

2    4 

0  11 

0    8 

56 

Unjha 

12.14 

2.20 

5    4  '  2  10 

0  12 

0    9 

64 

Siddhpur 

12.46 

3.  4 

6    0     3    0 

0  14 

0  11 

72 

Chhapi 

3.41 

6  12     8    6 

1    0 

0  12 

83 

PalanpuT        .       B       .        .        . 

2.20 

4.53 

7  12     3  14 

1    2 

0  14 

90 

Cbitrasni 

_- 

5.31 

8    8 

4    4 

1    4 

0  15 

96  .  Barotri 

6.  2 

9    0 

4    8 

1    5 

1    0 

104 

Roho 

3.30 

6.38 

9  12 

4  14 

1    7 

1    1 

115 

Aboo  Road      .       R       .        .        . 

4.  9 

7.46 

11    0.5    0 

1    9 

1    3 

Passengers  for  Aboo  should  leave 
Bombay  by  the  night  mail  train,  taking 
through-tickets  to  Aboo  Road  Station. 
Attention  should  be  paid  to  the  regu- 
lations for  obtaining  reserved  accom- 
modation and  to  the  rates  for  servants 
and  limits  for  return  tickets,  which 
differ  on  the  two  lines  of  railway  to  be 
traversed,  and  information  regarding 
which  will  be  found  in  the  B,  B.  and 
C.  I.  Guif  . 

Visitoi  to  hill  stations  should  take 
plenty  c  .  rugs  and  other  warm  kit  with 
them,  1  ut  it  will  be  found  when  travel- 
ling by  the  B.  B.  and  C.  I.  that  the 
changes  of  temperature  are  very  ex- 
treme, and  in  Guzerat  it  is  often  very 
chilly  at  4  in  the  morning,  even  during 
the  hottest  period  of  the  year.  Another 
unpleasant  feature  in  the  journey  is 
the  dust.  This,  from  Broach  to  Ahmed- 
abad especially,  is  simply  stifling, 
and  there  is  a  thick  coating  of  it  on 
everything  in  the  carriage,  penetrating 

*  From  the  "  Times  of  India,"  April  3rd, 
1883. 


the  wicker-work  of  the  tiffin  basket 
and  making  everything  filthy.  Beyond 
Ahmedabad  there  is  little  or  no  dust, 
the  B.  M.  line  being  ballasted  with 
stone  and  gravel  instead  of  the  sand 
which  was  the  only  material  the  B.  B. 
and  C.  I.  could  obtain  until  the  Pall 
quarries  came  to  be  worked.  The 
question  of  refreshnwnts  is  an  import- 
ant one,  and  must  be  treated  candidly 
if  not  in  a  manner  very  flattering  to 
the  various  refreshment  pui-veyors 
along  the  line.  After  leaving  Bombay 
(it  is  advisable  to  have  a  good  dinner 
before  leaving,  and  to  bring  plentiful 
supplies  of  ice  and  soda  water  with 
one)  tea  can  be  had  at  Basscin  and  at 
D^uinu,  but  it  may  be  laid  down  as 
an  axiom  that  coffee  and  not  tea 
should  be  drunk  where  the  provider  is 
a  Mussulman. 

No  Mussulman  touches  tea :  they 
all  drink  coffee,  and  know  how  to 
make  it  well. 

Surat  is  reached  at  1 .10  A.M.,  and  any 
one  who  has  not  dined  may  do  so  then. 


4006 


Jioute  40a. — Boinhay  to  Mount  Ahoo  {Abu),       Sect.  II. 


The  refreshment-room  is  now  wider 
much  improved  management.  On 
arriving  at  uihmeddbad  (7.20  A.M.), 
passengers  have  the  choice  of  taking 
either  chota  hazree  or  breakfast.  The 
refreshment  rooms  here  are  not  all  that 
could  be  desired.  At  Palanpur  (2  p.m.) 
t£e  arrangements  on  the  Bajputana 
line  are  far  superior,  and  a  really  well- 
served  tiffin  maybe  had  there,  though 
the  time  allowed  (about  25  minutes) 
leaves  very  little  leisure  for  conversa- 
tion if  justice  is  to  be  done  to  the 
meal. 

At  Ahoo  Road  fit  at  ion  there  is  a 
refreshment  room  and  mcssman,  who 
may  be  trusted  to  provide  a  "  mess  " 
for  the  unwary  passenger.  If  it  is  in- 
tended to  stop  for  the  night  at  the 
travellers'  bungalow  near  Aboo  Koad 
Station,  a  day's  notice  should  be  given 
to  this  purveyor  to  secure  any  "  eat- 
able" that  shall  be  deserving  the 
name. 

As  the  first  part  of  the  journey  takes 
place  at  night,  the  scenery  along  the 
line  calls  for  no  notice  until  Ahmed- 
abad  is  passed,  and  even  then  it  is  mo- 
notonous enough,  the  only  striking 
objects  in  the  landscape  being  the 
queer  white  domes  on  the  stations, 
out-offices,  and  other  railway  buildings 
along  the  Bajputana  line,  which  from 
a  little  distance  look  as  if  Sindbad's 
Moe  had  been  laying  its  gigantic  eggs 
all  over  the  place,  the  junction  at 
Sabarmutti  looking  in  particular  as  if 
a  colony  of  those  birds  had  established 
their  eyries  there.  From  Palanpur 
the  landscape  (as  if  in  harmony  with 
the  refreshed  passengers)  assumes  a 
more  smiling  appearance.  The  Aboo 
range,  with  its  "  thunder-splitting 
pinnacles"  rising  abruptly  from  the 
plain,  is  now  seen  ahead,  and  the  train 
speeds  on  (if  13  miles  an  hour  may  be 
called  "  speeding  ")  through  jungles  of 
richly  varying  hues. 

Ahoo  Road  Statwn  is  reached  about 
4.30  P.M.,  and  no  time  should  be  lost 
in  summoning  the  *' coolie  contrac- 
tor," who  is  generally  in  waiting  to 
meet  the  train,  if  it  is  intended  to 
make  the  ascent  the  same  night.  The 
ascent  from  the  station  to  Aboo  is 
about  16  miles,  and  circumstances 
must  deteimine  whether  it  can  be 


made  the  same  evening.  The  road  up 
winds  along  fearful  precipices,  and 
has  no  wall  or  fence  of  any  kind,  so 
that  a  single  false  step  on  the  part  of 
the  pony  may  lead  to  an  inquest  being 
held  next  day.  The  journey  on  a 
bazaar  tat  takes  at  least  three  hours,  so 
(starting  at  five)  the  last  and  most 
dangerous  part  of  the  ascent  must  be 
ridden  by  moonlight  or  in  the  dark. 
These  ponies  are  wonderfully  sure- 
footed, it  is  true,  and  know  the  road 
so  well  that  they  may  be  trusted  to 
take  the  right  turn  in  case  of  doubt, 
but  if  there  is  no  moonlight  it  is  not 
advisable  for  any  one  to  try  the 
ascent  by  night.  And  the  coolies 
often  object  to  making  the  journey  at 
night  if  there  is  no  moon  visible. 

The  arrangements  for  stayingi  at 
Aboo  Road  for  the  night  are  not  very 
comfortable,  but,  if  previous  notice 
has  been  given,  some  sort  of  a  dinner 
may  be  had  at  the  station,  and  pas- 
sengers may  sleep  at  the  travellers* 
bungalow  about  half-a-mile  up  the 
road,  where  beds  are  to  be  had.  The 
means  of  ascent  are  of  two  kinds  :  on 
pony-back,  or  in  tonjons.  The  Aboo 
ponies  are  divided  into  first-class 
tatoos,  second-class  tatoos,  and  third- 
class  tatoos,  costing  rupees  four,  two, 
and  one  and  a-quarter  respectively  for 
the  journey  either  up  or  down.  When, 
there  are  ladies,  especially  with  young 
children,  it  is  useless  to  think  of  going 
up  the  same  night,  as  tonjons  take 
from  five  to  six  hours  to  perform  the 
journey.  The  coolies  cost  nine  annas 
each,  but  the  promise  of  a  little  extra 
huksJicM  has  a  wonderful  effect  in  ac- 
celerating their  movements.  The 
first  three  miles  from  the  station  are 
level,  and  then  the  road  begins  to 
wind  up  the  sides  of  ravines  and 
across  ridges,  amid  dense  jungles 
of  khakra  and  kambir  trees,  and 
higher,  bamboos  and  date-palms,  until 
within  six  miles  of  the  cantonment, 
where  a  sort  of  rest-house  is  reached, 
and  the  ascent  becomes  less  steep. 
The  unprotected  state  of  the  road,  in 
some  parts  along  sheer  precipices, 
makes  it  exceedingly  dangerous,  and  it 
requires  very  little  prescience  to  foresee 
that  there  will  be  an  awful  smash 
some  day,  when  a  shying  pony  will 


Sect.  II.       Boute  40a. — Aboo :  tlie  DUwarra  Temples, 


400c 


take  itself  and  rider  down  a  few  hun- 
dred feet  at  one  bound. 

Tigers  and  panthers  arc  not  unfre- 
quently  seen  on  Aboo,  even  coming 
out  to  stare  at  passengers  along  the 
road  ;  and  timid  voyagers  may  be  glad 
to  learn  that  the  best  way  to  make  a 
tiger  stand  aside  is  to  pelt  him 
vigorously  with  stones  until  you  suc- 
ceed in  dumping  him  in  the  ribs  with 
a  young  rock.  This  generally  causes 
the  insulted  animal  to  withdraw  from 
the  road,  but.it  may  be  taken  for 
granted  that  he  is  calmly  stalking  you 
fi:om  near  the  roadside  for  a  few  miles 
further  on,  until  he  finally  decides 
that  you  are  really  not  welUflavoured 
Bhikar. 

Or  a  bear  may  vary  the  monotony 
of  the  journey  occasionally  ;  but  these 
occurrences  are  infrequent. 

Laige  game  may  be  had  on  Aboo, 
but  the  local  shikarries  are  all  in  the 
pay  of  the  permanent  residents,  and 
the  best  khubher  goes  to  them  ;  at  the 
bottom  of  the  hills,  however,  good 
sport  may  be  had  by  anyone  who  can 
afford  to  camp  out  in  the  feverish 
jungles  during  the  two  hottest  months 
and  work  hard  for  sport. 

The  natives  of  Aboo  are  Bhils,  and 
are  well-known  for  their  cleverness 
in  tracking  and  marking-down  wild 
animals.  They  are  very  trusty  fellows, 
and  a  little  kindness  will  not  be  wasted 
on  them,  if  tempered  with  firmness. 

Aboo. — House  accommodation  on 
Aboo  is  bad,with  a  veryfew  exceptions; 
and  without  exception  it  is  very  expen- 
sive. Putting  aside  the  houses  of  the 
permanent  residents  (the  political 
officials  of  the  Rajputana  States),  the 
best  bungalows  cost  furnished  about  a 
thousand  rupees  for  the  season  (March 
to  June)  and  the  worst  as  much  as  five 
hundred.  Except  one  or  two  undesir- 
able summer  residences,  which  are  still 
in  the  market,  all  the  houses  are  taken 
by  the  end  of  February,  and  visitors 
have  to  choose  between  pitching  tents 
(a  very  pleasant  arrangement,  though 
a  camping  place  is  not  easily  found 
owing  to  the  rocky  nature  of  the 
ground)  and  going  to  the  hotel  or  the 
travellers'  bungalow.  The  travellers' 
bungalow  contains  two  rooms,  and  is 
under  the  management  of  the  hotel  1 


proprietor,  Mr.  Da  Costa.  The  ropms 
are  airy  and  cool,  but  residence  at  a 
travellers'  bungalow  is  always  rather  a 
Damoclean  sort  of  existence,  as  one  is 
liable  to  be  turned  out  by  any  new- 
comer after  twentj'-f our  hours  of  indis- 
,  putable  possession. 

The  Hotel  contains  accommodation 
for  about  four  families.  The  bungalow 
is  very  small,  and  is  inconvenient  in 
several  ways.  It  is,  in  fact,  quite 
unsuited  for  an  hotel ;  but  the  pro- 
prietor is  very  anxious  to  do  his  best 
for  his  visitors,  and  the  cookery  is 
really  very  fair,  perhaps  superior  to 
that  at  the  Matheran  and  Kbandalla 
hotels.  This  hotel  is  a  great  convenience 
to  travellers ;  it  will  doubtless  in  tin^e 
be  greatly  extended  and  improved. 

Life  on  Aboo  is  rather  dull,  unless 
one  is  easily  satisfied.    The  roads  ave 
very  hUly,  and  unprotected  by  shady 
trees,  except  in  a  few  parts  ;  the  glare 
from  the  white  roads  is  almost  blind- 
ing, and  the  heat  radiated  from  the 
surfaces  of  the  black  weathered  granite 
is  very  great ;  and  whatever  the  ther- 
mometer may  say  to  the  contrary,  one 
does  not  feel  cool  at  Aboo  out  of  doors 
during  the  day  time.    There  are  a  good 
gymkhana,  a  small  library,  and  a  club ; 
and  a  lake,  upon  which  visitors  can 
paddle  their  own  or  somebody  else's 
canoes  if  so  disposed.    The  most  pleas- 
ing local  feature  is  the  roses,  which 
are  really  splendid,  the  hedges  to  many 
compounds  being  formed  exclusively 
of  them.    And  the  forest  trees  in  parts 
are  also  very  fine.  But  to  one  familiar 
with  Matheran  and  the  other  stations 
on  the  terraced  traprock  of  the  Western 
Ghauts,  the  general  impression  derived 
from  the  granitic  Aboo  range  is  that 
the  scenery  is  bleaker  and  less  verdant 
than  on  the  Ghauts,  though  the  super- 
ficial outline  is  much  the  same,  despite 
the  differences  of  geological  formation. 

Besides  the  scenery,  the  sights  of 
Aboo  are  the  famous  Jain  Temples  at 
Dilwarra,  which  can  only  be  viewed 
after  obtaining  a  pass  from  the  resi- 
dent Magistrate.* 

*  A  full  account  of  these  temples  may  be 
found  in  Fergusson's  "  Handbook  of  Archi- 
tecture," and  his  "  Picturesque  Illustrations 
of  Ancient  Architecture  in  Hindustan  ; "  and 
Tod's  **  Travels  in  Western  India"  and  Forbca'a 
"  Basmala  '*  may  also  be  referred  to. 


400^ 


Boute  40a. — Bombay  to  Mount  Ahoo  {Abu),      Sect.  II. 


The  DiLWARRA  Temples  are 
about  a  mile  from  the  cantonment, 
and  it  is  hard  to  say  whether  one  is 
more  filled  with  admiration  for  those 
ancients  who  would  raise  such  shrines 
to  God  in  a  time  of  persecution,  or 
with  disgust  at  the  modem  Hindus 
who  can  deface  and  defile  these  splen- 
did monuments  with  daubings  of  red 
lead  and  ochre  and  oil,  and  hang  up 
tawdry  votive  garlands  and  banners 
of  tinsel,  and  scrawl  over  the  fair 
marble  surfaces  long  inscriptions  set- 
ting forth  the  piety  and  charity  of 
Mahajun  this  or  that.  And  the  resto- 
ration and  pointing  of  the  stone-work 
has  been  done  as  coarsely  as  it  was 
possible  to  do  it.  But  with  all  these 
impediments  to  an  appreciation  of  the 
temples,  when  we  behold  the  exquisite, 
variety  of  the  forms,  the  delicacy  and 
symmetry  of  the  tracery,  the  accurate 
proportion  and  correct  delineation  of 
the  figures,  the  perspective  of  the 
colonnades  and  the  endless  iteration 
of  the  central  idea  of  the  whole  edifice, 
we  are  filled  with  wonder.  The  Dil- 
warra  temples  are  indeed  marvellous, 
and  find  a  fitting  framework  in  their 
nest  of  mango  trees,  with  green  fields 
of  barley  waving  at  their  feet,  and 
surrounded  on  all  sides  by  the  ever- 
lasting hills. 

"The  more  modem  of  the  two 
temples  was  built  by  the  same 
brothers,  Tejpala  and  Vastupala,  who 
erected  the  triple  temple  at  Gimar. 
This  one,  we  learn  from  inscriptions, 
was  erected  between  1197  and  1247, 
and  for  minute  delicacy  of  carving 
and  beauty  of  detail  stands  almost 
unrivalled  even  in  the  land  of  patient 
and  lavish  labour. 

*'  The  other,  built  by  another  mer- 
chant prince,  Vimala  Sah,  apparently 
about  A.D.  1032,  is  simpler  and  bolder, 
though  still  as  elaborate  as  good  taste 
would  allow  in  any  purely  archi- 
tectural object.  Being  one  of  the 
oldest  as  well  as  one  of  the  most 
complete  examples  known  of  a  Jaina 
temple,  its  peculiarities  form  a  con- 
venient introduction  to  the  style,  and 
serve  to  illustrate  how  complete  and 
perfect  it  had  already  become  when 
we  first  meet  with  it  in  India. 


"  The  principal  object  here,  as  else- 
where, is  a  cell  lighted  only  from  the 
door,  containing  a  cross-legged  seated 
figure  of  the  saint  to  whom  the  temple 
is  dedicated,  in  this  instance  Pars- 
wanatha.  The  cell  terminates  up- 
wards in  a  sikra,  or  pyramidal  spire- 
like roof,  which  is  common  to  all 
Hindu  and  Jaina  temples  of  the  age 
in  the  north  of  India.  To  this  is 
attached  a  portico  composed  of  48 
free-standing  pillars ;  and  the  whole 
is  enclosed  in  an  oblong  courtyard, 
about  140  ft.  by  90  ft.,  surrounded  by 
a  double  colonnade  of  smaller  pillars, 
forming  porticos  to  a  range  of  56  cells, 
which  enclose  it  on  all  sides,  exactly 
as  they  do  in  Buddhist  viharas.  In 
this  case,  however,  each  cell,  instead 
of  being  the  residence  of  a  monk,  is 
occupied  by  one  of  those  cross-legged 
images  which  belong  alike  to  Budd- 
hism and  Jainism.  Here  they  are, 
according  to  the  Jaina  practice,  all 
repetitions  of  the  same  image  of  Pars- 
wanatha,  and  over  the  door  of  each 
cell,  or  on  its  jambs,  are  sculptured 
scenes  from  his  life.  The  long  beams, 
stretching  from  pillar  to  pillar,  sup- 
porting the  roof,  are  relieved  by 
curious  angular  struts  of  white  marble, 
sprin^g  from  the  middle  of  the 
pillar  up  to  the  middle  of  the  beam." 
— Fergtisson, 

There  are  no  other  architecturally 
interesting  buildings,  at  Aboo,  but 
the  Lawrence  ScJwt  I  ?  for  the  orphan 
children  of  soldiers  are  also  well 
worth  a  visit.  Here  may  be  seen 
about  70  boys  and  50  girls,  all  under 
16  years  of  age.  The  schools  are  ex- 
cellently managed,  and  it  is  very 
pleasant  to  see  the  children,  whether 
at  work  or  play.  The  boys  play  cricket 
and  football. 

Aboo  is  on  the  whole  not  to  be  com- 
pared with  Matheran  or  Khandalla 
for  accessibility,  coolness,  or  variety. 
It  is  of  course  a  great  change  from 
the  hot  plains  of  Rajputana,  and  must 
always  form  a  welcome  resort  for  the 
people  of  the  districts  around,  but  it 
offers  no  attractions  sufficiently  great 
to  tempt  ease-loving  Bombayites  from 
their  old  familiar  haunts  of  the  Western 
Ghauts. — H.  L. 


INDEX. 

1 


ABEGIRI. 


A. 


Abegiri,  348 
Actidari,  391 
Aden,  9 

'A'dil  Shah,  213,  314 
Afzal  Khto,  209,  3x5,  37Z 
Agnado  Point,  sax 
A%imadabAd,    333;    history, 
333 ;  citadel,  334;  mosques, 

335—337,  33«--34«;  old 
cemetery,  336 ;  High  School 
and  Library,  338  ;  English 
chorch,  338;  M&t^  Bha- 
wini,343;  Ktokariya  lake, 
343;  SarlLhej,  343;  Shah 
'Alam's  tomb,  345 

Ahmadab&d  to  WadhwAn,  346 

— —  to  Mount  Abii  Road,  400 

Ahmad  ShAh,  336 

A^madnagar      (Ahmednng- 
gur),  39X 

Al^mad  Sultan,  333 

Ahmednuggnr,  391 

Aiwalji,  353 

AJanta,  390 

Aji,  river,  349 

Alexandria,  9 

Amals&d,  309 

Amam&th,  168 

Ambika,  river,  309 

Amboli,  233 

Amri,  river,  327 

Amrol,  324 

A'nand,  333 

A'nikeri,  243 

Ankai  Tankai,  386 

Ankle,  275 

Ariklesar,  337 

Apa  Sdhib,  371 

Ar^mrah,  369 

AsArva,  343 

<Asoli,  8x8 

At'hkot,  vj6 

zVurangzib  recovers  Siiihgairh, 
J90 ;  besieges  Bitdra,  373 


B. 

Babington,  Mr.,  125 
Babta,  376 

[Bombay— ISSO.] 


BHAUVAQAB. 

Bddami;,  348 ;  caves  of,  249 

Badwdi,  305 

Bagb,  caves  of,  307 

B^wa  stat.,  333 

Bail-Hangal,  236 

B6ji  lUo,  166,  x86,   188,  285 

Bilk  9&^ib  lUstia,  195 

Balsu*,  river,  309 

Ba  i^d,  29X 

BAmanbar,  349 

Bambura,  187,  391 

Bank&ptu*,  241 

Banyan,  Bar,  or  Bur  tree  at 

Wairatgarh,  195 
Banduri,  359 
Banni  Creek,  309 
Bantli,  359 
BAoris,  '323 
Bdr^ari  stEit,  332 
Bami,  220 
Baroda,  history,  320 ;  Bdoris, 

323 
to  Champanir  and  Paw- 

anga4h.  324 

to  A^mad&Uld,  332 

Bdrsi,  206 

Bassin,    158—162 ;    Captains 

of,  39 
Batwa,  345 
Beckwith,  Sir  T.  S.,  tomb  of, 

20X 
BedsA,  caves  of,  176 
Be^apore,  208,  see  Bijdpilr 
Belgaon      (Belgaum),     233 ; 

fort,    233;    temples,    234; 

cemeteries,  235;  environs, 

236 
to  Kittiir  and  Dh&rwad, 

237 
to  Gotiir  and  the  Falls 

of  Gokak,  253 
Bellasis,  Gen.,  126 
Bet,  island  of,  368 
Betel,  culture  of,  24a 
Betl  river,  ^49 
Bhaindar  suit.,  158 
Bhadar,  river,  351 
Bh^ja,  caves  of,  176 
Bhar,  219 
Bhari^ch  (Broach),  327   . 

to  Dabhoi,  325 

Bharwald,  370 

Bhaunagar,  380^  sights  near, 

381 


BOJIBAT. 

Bhaunagar  to  Surat,  384 

Bhela,  293 

Bhima,  river,  206,  208 

Bhog&wa.  river,  346 

Bhor  Gh4t,  172 

BhosAwal,  288 

Bhi:^,  371 

Bidok,  387 

Bidri,^59 

BIjApur,  308 ;  Ibrahim 
Rozah's  tomb,  309;  Lion 
Bastion,  2x1 ;  mausoleum 
of  SuIUn  Muhammad,  212 ; 
the  JAm'i  Ma^id,  219 ;  Ark 
or  citadel,  215 ;  Hihtar's 
mosque,  216 ;  route  to  Ka- 
ladgi  and  BMAmi,  2x7 

Bilimora  stat.,  309 

Bini,  219 

Bird,  Dr.,  283 

Birpur,  351 

Bohrahs,  the,  44 

Bombay,  City,  X12;  Alexan- 
dra native  girls'  Institution, 
133 ;  St.  Andrew's  Kirk, 
X32 ;  Cathedral,  123 ;  R. 
Catholic  Chapel,  132 ; 
Christ  Church,  Bykallah, 
135 ;  Clubs,  113  ;  Convey- 
ances, X14;  Cotton  screws, 
126  :  Custom  house,  126  ; 
docks,  X36 ;  Dw&rkandth's 
temple,  134;  Elphinstone 
College,  134 ;  High  School, 
X33 ;  docks,  X37  ;  environs, 
144— x63 ;  European  Ceme- 
tery at  Parell,  139;  Gir- 
^oh  Cemeteries,  137 ; 
Gokald&s  hospital,  X34 ; 
Government  House  at  Mala- 
bar Hill,  X34;  at  Parell, 
X38 ;  Grant  Medical 
Cktllege,  136 ;  harbour 
and  landing  places,  1x3; 
hotels,  ZX3  ;  House  of  Cor- 
rection, X34 ;  Jamshidjf 
Dharms&l&  and  hospital, 
X36 ;  Kol&ba  cemetery,  X3X ; 
memorial  church,  129 ; 
Kurla  cotton  mill,  X39; 
lighthouse,  X3X ;  markets, 
120  ;  Mazagdon,  X38  ;  mint, 
123  ;  Nul  market,  137  ; 
Pars!   Benevolent  Institu- 

D  D 


402 


INDEX. 


BOMBAY. 

tion,  X33 ;  DharmsdU,  143; 
St.  Peter's  Church,  Maz- 
agAon,  xa8;  Pii\jrA  Pol, 
X34 ;  Police  court,  233 : 
public  offices,  1x4— zx8 : 
railways,  x^ ;  Bailors^ 
Home,  xx8 ;  Bassoon  dock, 
138;  School  of  Design, 
133 ;  Scotch  Mismon 
Bcnools,  137;  Season  for 
visiting,  a ;  shooting,  143 ; 
steamers,  X44;  Towers  of 
Silence,  141 :  Town  Hall, 
Z3X ;  Valkeshwar,  temple 
of,  140;  Victoria  gardens 
and  museum,  X35 ;  Work- 
house, Z34;  St.  Xavier's 
College,  X37. 

Bombay,  routes  to,  4 

to  M4therdn,  x63 

to   Th&n&,  Ealy&9  and 

AmamAth,  x66 

to  Khanddld  and  Karli, 

X70 

to  Qoa,  2x7 

toNAshik,  276 

—  to  Surat.  309 

-—to    Karachi  and  Kotri, 

384 
Broach  (see  Bhan\ch),  337 
Budaxga^h,  366 
Burdi,  river,  333 
Buridah  ravine,  the,  387 
Buttrammatti,  353 
Bykallah  club,  xx3 


C. 

Cambay,  381 
Campbell,  Colonel,  X36 
Campoolee,  or  Kampiili,  X70 
Camac,  Bilg.'Gen.,  tomb  of, 

X36 

Camac,  Sir  J.,  X36,  33X 
Castes  and  Tribes,  43—47 
Chaitya  Cave,  the  great,  X55 
Chdkan,  xo3    ■ 
Chdlisgaon,  388 
Champanlr,  334 
ChAnakya,  168 
ChAnd  Bibi,  tomb  of,  393 
Ch&ndin.  388 
Chaiidwa,  388 
Chandw&4,  386 
Ch&s,  396 
Chatr,  343 
Chik  Naigxmd,  342 
Chinchore,  X78 
Chinchwa4>  178 
Choral,  305 
Chotila,  3A9 

Chronological  Tables,  15-40 
Chum&rdah  hills,  380 
Coats',  Mr.  Thos.,  paper  on 

Lonf,"  308-300 
ComwalUs,  Lord,  123, 187 


FERGUSSON. 

Cowper,  CoL,  X2x 
Crowe,  Mr.  393 

D. 

Dabhoi,  330 

D4h&na,  309 

Dakilir,  333 

D&m^ji  GaekW&4,  930 

DamAU}  river,  309  (Demaun) 

Dambal,  347 

D&ndilli,  340 

DanoU,  933 

Dapoorie,  183 

D&ptiri  (Dapoorie),  182 

Darra,  304 

Ddtir,  mt.,  3563 

Daulat&b&d,  300 

Dawson,  Lieut.,  X25 

Delamotte,  Gen.,  366 

Deog&ou,  390 

Deolali,  378 

Derkoh,  river,  390 

Dewalgaoiifort,  390 

Dewalgarh  (Dowlagarh),  398 

Dewgiri,  343 

Deygaod, 39X 

Dharol,  976 

Dh&rw&4  (Darwar),  338 

to  Hubli,  Gadak,  and 

LakkuQ41>  341 
Dholkeir,  30^ 
DhApdAl,  354 
Dialogues,  87-xxo 
Diet,  directions  for,  3 
Diksal,  306 
Dom,  X95 
Dongar  Ganj,  393 
DorbE^i,  39X 
Dow,  Colonel,  x36 
Dress,  directions  for,  3 
DudA,  387 
Duncan,  Jonathan,  tomb  of, 

X24 
DwArldL  365 ;  temple,  366 

to  Bet,  368 

to  Mandavi  and  Bhqj, 

370 

B. 

EknUdi  tank,  907 
Elephanta  Cave,  144 — 153 
Elphinstone,     Mountstuart, 

statue  of,  XS3 
Eli^ra  (EUora),  390 
Eras,  the,  of  the  ^ndtis,  xo 
Events,     remarkable,     con- 
necting India  with  Europe, 
35—39 

P. 

Falkland,  Lady,  x83|  194 
FatMbAd,  390 
IVit^  'Ali  Kh&n,  383 
Fat9  Singh,  ^so 
Fergusson,  Mr.,  X73,  3to»  3X3 


HABDINOE. 

Festivals  and  Fasts,  Table 

of,  XX— x5 
Fitzgerald,  Captain,  399 
Food,  hints  regarding  3 
Forbes,  Sir  Charles,  xas 
Ford,  Colonel,  x8o,  x83 


G. 

Gad,  river,  220 
Gadak,  344 

toBadAmi,  S48 

G&mbher,  river,  307    . 

Gand&ba  Lakk.  387 

Gdijiesh  Khin4,  x88;    Gh&t, 

393 
Gapesha  Fahdr  caves,  394 
GangA  Dwar,  385 
GAng[l,379 

Gal^Murba,  river,  353^  356 
GMtgach,  394 
Ghog,  river,  397 
Gibraltar,  5 
Gim&r  mountain,  355 
Gisri,  387 
Goa,  Governors  and  Viceroys, 

XX ;  described,  328 
,  old,  33X  ;  tomb  of  S. 

Francis      Xavler,       asx ; 

churches,  333 — 338 

,  island  of,  339 

to  VingorleA,  330 

Godtfvari  river,  391 ;  source, 

384 
Godaard,  Gen.,   takes  Bas- 

sin,  X59 
Gokik,  354 ;  Falls  of,  354 
Golap.  3x9 
Gomti  Creek,  368 
Gondal,  35X 
Gordon,     General,    reduces 

ThAna,  166 
-^' ,  James,  monument  to, 

at  Tok,  39X 
Gottir,  354 
to  E.olhdpi!ir  and  Pan- 

h&l&,  358 
Governors  of  Bombay,  x6 
Govind  Bio,  330 
Grant  Duflf,  303 


H. 


Hab,  river,  387 
"AidarAbad,  in 

fort,  395;   tombs  of' 

Wlpurs,   396;   Jatt,   397; 

manufoctures,   397 ;     di' 

Jnate,  397 
Qaidar'Ali, 
HiU,  384 
H&lls,  the,  45 
Hampes&gBT,  3^7 
Hdngal  (Hungul),  341, 243 
Hardinge,  Captain,  X35 


Haidar&bad,  in  Sindh,  394; 


339 


INDEX. 


403 


HABIAB. 

Harior,  948 
Hanil,riTer,9ao 
Health,  hints  regarding,  3 
Heber,  Bishop,  317,  338 
HesarAr,  347 
Hingl^,  387 :  cave,  390 
Hiia  BfMD,  187 
Holkar  KlrbacU  Bridge,  30s 
Hooblee,  me  Habli,  341 

Hukeri,  354 

Huli,  337 

HydeBatiad,  in  Bindh,  394 

HydraQUo  dock  at  Bombay, 


X53 


I. 


Ibrahim  Boxah,  309 
Igatpilira,  378 
Imixajaia,  391 
ImliTiank,  389 
Indtir,  306 
Indus,  liver,  384, 393 
Irmal,  376. 


J. 


Jabalp&r,  388. 
Jaitpur,  35X. 
Jagalnefn,  340 
Jagesnwar  Cave,  158 
Jamkhandi,  358 
Jamshi^JiJ^ibhii,  Sir,  statue 

Ct,  Z33 

Ja^,  906 

Jerol,  334 

Jh^wAr,  347 

Jirk,  393 

Jiwdnan  fort,  294 

JotebA's  hiU,  367 

Ji!ini^4h,  351 

Juniigarh,  359 

to  Yiiawal  and  Somn&th, 

359 
Jtinnar  (Jooneer),  894 ;  Caves, 

894 


K. 

Kabir  Tat,  the,  338 

Kacha,32o 

Kacbh  (Catch),  371 ;  gtilf  of, 

Kadaioli,  336 

Ktol,359 
KAnan,  river,  307 

Kaigion,  391 
Kaira,  333 
Kakrej  Gh&(,  194 
KilindA,  liver,  3x9 
Kalkerra,  340' 
Kaly&n  Koi,  393 


KUYKBf. 

Kalyin  (Callian),  167 

KambargAon,  393 

KampiUl,  X70 

KAngala,  358 

KAuiail  Caves  (Kenneiy),  154 

KAnkaiiya  lake,  343 

Kankn  Creek,  309 

KAniir,  333 

Kapadwuj,  33a 

Kapila  river,  363 

Kapri  Creek,  309 

KuAchi   (Kurrachee),    385; 

sights  nesr,  387 
Kand,370 

EUupe^on,  297 

Karijat,  170 

KAru  Caves,  173 

—  to  FunA,  177 

KAmmba,  376 

KAthiawAd  (Kattywar),  390 ; 

area,  350 
KAtodis,  the,  47 
Kauri,  river,  333 
Rem,  9o6 
KerenL  359 

Khadakwasla  lake,  191 
KhambalA,  38< 
KhambAyat  (CambayX  381; 

history,  383 ;  subterranean 

Jain  temples,  383 
KhandAla,  170 ;    described, 

X79 
Khandesh,  plain  of,  388 
Khandwah    to    Indi^    and 

MAhu,  305 
KhArA,  346 
Khed^&ion,  906 
Khirki,  179 
Kotia  KhAri,  the,  384 
KiamArl,  island  of,  31)5 
Kilgarh,  975 
Kim,  river,  337 
Kiranya  river,  369 
Kirkee,  or  Khipki,  179 
KittAr,  937 
Kolna,  river,  970 
KolAba  cemetery,  x3z 
Kolak,  river,  309 
Kolhi4>iir,  959 

to  SAtArt^  969 

Koli  Creek,  309 

Kolis,  the,  45 

KomgAoii,  396 

Koii(fliApi!ir,  997 

Kontir,  958 

KorArA,376 

KorigAoA,  303 ;  battle,  303 

Kotia  KhAri,  384 

Kotri,  304 

Kottabal,  948 

Kri^h^  river,  105,  970,  973 

Krishnawandi,  river,  993 

Kulcri,  river,  994 

Kumbis,  the,  303 

Kuner,  975 

Kups,  the,  389 

Kurrachee,  385,  see  KarAohl 

Kuveri,  river,  309 


MOHAL. 


L. 


Lakhpa,  346 
Lakkan4i(  945 
Lanauli,  173 
Languages,  49 
Lena  Caves,  980 
Lodwick,  G«n.,  909 
Loni,  905,  9p7 
Lovrji  NausmrwAi^i,  X36 


M. 

Madhol,  958 

MAdra,  373 

Hagar  rfr,  387 

MahAbaleshwar  Hills,  — 
hoteht,  X96;  geology  and 
topography  of,  197 ;  flora 
and  climate  of,  197;  dis- 
covery of,  X98 :  principal 
GhA^  to,  199;  cemetery, 
90I ;  environs  of,  302 ;  sport 
at,  304 

MahAdeogarl^  hill,  333 

MahAr,  the,  30Z 

Mahi  river,  324,  339 

Mahirawani,  985 

Ma^miidAbAd  stat.,  339 

MAhu  (M how),  307 

MAhuli  (Mowlee),  973 ;  tem- 
ples, 974 

Maitland,  Adm.,  X95 

Makranga  h,  905 

Malcolm,  Sir  J.,  182,  306 

Malcolm  Pefh,  197,  900 

MalhAr  RAo,  329 

Malik  Sh'abAn  lake,  334 

Malparba,  river,  936, 937, 943, 
953 

Malta,  6 

MAlwan,  990,  963 

Manauli.  237 

MAndavl,  370 

— —  to  Nowanagar,  373 

MAndu  ruins,  307 

Mani  river,  339 

ManmA4,  988 

Hanohar,  storming  of,  967 

Manohargafh,  fort,  232 

Manora  headland,  385 

Maroli  stat.,  309 

MatA  BhawAni  at  A^madA- 
bAd,  342 

MAtheran,  x69 

MaulangA,  9x9 

Me4a,  975 
Meghpur,  37X 
Mendola,  nver.  309 
Meshwa,  river,  332 
Mhow,  «>7,  see  MAhu 
MiAni,  battle  of,  397 
Mina,  river,  994 
MithbAs,  river,  s9o 
Mohal,  9o6 


404 


JNDEX. 


HOMEY. 

3Ioney,  40 

Montpezir  Cares,  153 

Morm,  Me^or  J.  D.,  336 

Mortakka,  305 

Moti  Benndr,  243 

Mugttt  KMn  Id  Hubli,  237 

Muqammiul  Shih's  tomb,  2x3 

Mujjin,  369 

MuU,  348 ;  river,  182 

Munro,  Gen.,  307 


Na4i4d,  333 

Nagar,  291,  m^  A^madnagar 

NMidpiir,  248 

Nandgioii.290 

to  Elara,  290 

to  Abmadnagar,  Junnar 

and  Pan&,  3^ 
Napier,  Sir  C,  on  the  battle 

of  Mi&ni,  397 
N&rayan,  396 
Nargun'd,  343 
Nirikal,  348 
Narva,  379 
Ndshik,  379;  temples,  280; 

caves,  282 

to  Jabalpdr,  286 

Nh&ne  Ki  P&ni,  232 
Ni&reshwar,  369 
Nipdni,  258 
Nir4,  189 
Nirbadd  river,  327 
Nirgude,  294 
N orris,  Mr.,  122 
Norris,  Sir  W.,  311 
Nowanagar,  375 
—  to  B^kof,  tc.f  376 


O. 

Ogat,  river,  359 
Oranga,  river,  309 
Outfit,  3 

Outram,  Col.,  266,  398 
Ovans,  Col.,  366 
Overland  Bonte    by  Venice 
or  Brindisi,  9 


P. 

PdlitAna,  376 

Panch  Ganga,  river,  261,  367 

P^chganni,  196 

Panhdla,  367 

Panjim  or  New  Goa,  238 

Panwas,  319 

PAr,  river,  309 

Parasari,  river,  393 

Panier,  293 

Parsis,  the,  43 

Pirvati,  187 

Patas,  306 

PatgdoA,  330 

P&t^Tl,  or  head  man,  300 


sAtAaA. 

Patt&dakal,  253 
Pattinson,  Lieut,  304 
Pawanga4h,  367,  324 
Paw6,  X53 

Pilgrimage,  Hindu,  388-  390 
PilLiji  Gaekwa4,  330 

Pimpalwd4i»  293 
Pipalgdon,  385 
Piplya,  307 
Pir  Mango,  387 
Poona  or  Poonah,  zSa 
Porbandar,  365 
Porbatni  Creek,  309 
Pottinger,  Major,  monument 

to,  135 
Prabal,  165 
Pratapgavh,  sos 
Pravra,  river,  391 
Puga.  river,  333 

Pumalw&4if  906 

PunA  (PoonaX  first  mention 
and  history  of,  183 ;  de- 
scription of,  183 ;  Parvati 
hill  at,  187 

to  Mahdbaleshwar,  294 

to  Sholapur,  205 

Pi^r,  394 

Purandar  (Poorundhar),  19X 

PumA,  river,  309 


R. 

Raghunath  RAo,  187 

R4}Apiir,  3x9 

RAjkot,  349 

to  JiinAga^hand  fiimar. 

Ram,  307 
RAma's  Wells,  388 
RAmosis,  the,  43 
Rangoli,  376 
RAnl  Benni!ir,  243 
Ratnagiri  (Rutnagherry),  3x8 
Red  Sea,  the,  8 
RewA,  river,  338 
RewukAntha,  338 
Ron,  348 

Routes  to  Bombay,  4 
Rustam  KhAn,  3x1 


S 


Sachin,  309 
Sahyadn  hills,  328 
SAlsi,  3SO 
SanlpgAon,  336 
Sangam,  river,  291 
San^meshwar,  2x9 
SauijAn,  309 
Santnil,  220 
SArad,  376 
Saraswati  river,  363 
SardAr,  376 
SAswa4  (Sasoor),  193 
SAtAra,  370 ;  fort,  37  x ;  siege, 
272 


thAg, 

SataratoMahAbaleshwar,  275 
Sati,  the  last,  275 
Saundati,  236 
Saundatti  pass,  243 
gavauur,  242 
SAwantwA4i)p  3^ 

to  Belgaon,  230 

Season  for  visiting,  2 
Seo,  river,  330 
Seoni,  river,  89X 
Seman,  334 
ShAh  JahAn,  334 
Shankheshwar,  358 
Shatrunjay,  temples  at,  377 
Shivaji,  190,  303,  364,  371 
Shirwal,  X94 
SholApiir,  306 

to  ByApiir,  308 

Sihor,  376 
Simrol,  303 

Sindh,  384 ;  physical  geogra- 
phy, 384;  history,  384 
SindhiwalA,  290 

Siiihgarh,  X89 

Sinir,  297 

Sivalya,  31  x 

Skeleton  routes,  48 

SolAgAon,  29X 

SoranAth,  359 

SondAlgarh,  259 

Songa^h,  376 

to  Wallah  and  Bliauna- 

gar,  379 

SonmiyAni,  388 

Southampton  to  Bombay,  4 

Sri  river,  3« 

Staunton,  Captain,  305 

Stevenson,  Dr.,  284 

Suez,  8 ;  canal,  7 

Sugar  cane,  343 

SuhAgpi!ir,  388 

Sdndarekha,  356 

Siipa,  293,  296 

Surat,  history  of,  309  ;  names 
of  Chief  Factors,  3x2  ;  city, 
3x3;  fire,  3x7;  English 
cemetery,  317 ;  sport,  3x9 

Sutgatti,  336,  353 

to  Baroda,  320 


T. 

Tal  GhAf,  278 
Talegaon,  397 
TAlpurs,  the,  395 
TamhAn,  330 
TandulwA4i,  333 
Tapti  river,  313,  314,  337 
TArli  or  Sardine  fishing,  3x8 
Tarora,  390 
TAs,  393 
Tatta,  39X 

Tegh  Beg  Khan,  3x3 
Tegdr,  338 
Terle,  270 

Thag    School    at    Jabalptir, 
289 


INDEX. 


405 


thAkA. 

Tbdii&  (Tanna),  i66 

ThaUM,  35X 
Tok,  39Z 
Tondi  Ohit,  358 
Tong&  Bhera,  389 
Trimbak,  384 
Trimbakji,  166,  939 
Trivenl,  36a 
TungabhAdrd,  river,  247 

U. 

Udw&4<^  309 
Umaij  village,  370 
Umarji  fort,  248 
Unjaneri,  285 
Urli,3o6 

V. 

Varna,  river,  369 

YihAr,  lake,  152 

Vijd,  389 

Vvjayadorg  (Viiiadroog),  219 

Vindiir  river,  388 


wAtrak. 

Vingorlen,  230,  367 
Viramgion,  346 


VirAwal,_3S9 

rarka,  v  _ 
Vocabularies  and  Dialogues, 


to  Dwarka,  365 


51—1x0 


W. 


WidAw&4i,  219 

W44i,  231 
Wadhwan,  346 

to  B^jkot,  ^48 

Wdi  (Wye).  194  ' 
Walker,  Col.,  321 
Wallah,  379 
Wallambi,  river,  295 
Waralis,  the,  45—47 
WargdOh,  177 
Wangiou,  296 
Waijara,  29^ 
Warkoni,  nver,  232 
Waaad  slat.,  332 
WAsi,  233 
WAtrak,  river,  332 


Y<?8UF.  • 

WAvri,  376 
I  Wazar,  993 
!  WedderLume,  Gen.,  327 

Weights  and  measures,  40— 

43 
Wells,  or  BAofis,  near  Baro- 

da,  ^23 

Wellesiey,   Marquis,    statud 

of,  Z22 

WiswAmintri,  river,  333 
WitthobA,  temple  to,  206 
WondAl,  29X 


Xavier,  St.  Francis,   tomb, 
221 — 223 


Y. 

YamunA,  river,  362 
VeuA,  river,  199,  273 
Yusuf  KhAn,  393 


THE   END. 


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BBEMBN      ....     14 

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LYNT9N        .        . 

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MADRID       . 

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TBIBEBQ     . 

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CHRTRTIANIA     ...     19 

MARIENBAD 

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MENTONB    . 

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NANTES       . 

.    47 

VIENNA       . 

.     66 

DUON  .                         .29,28 

NAPLES 

.     48 

VtLLENEI>VB 

,     67 

DINARD        ....    23 

NERYI 

.    26 

WIESBADEN 

.        .     68 

DOVER          ....     22 

NEUOHATEL 

.    4» 

WILDBAD    . 

.     6» 

DRESDEN     .                 .S2.28.S4 

NICE     .        .        .        , 

.    48 

WURZBUBO 

.        .     €8 

ENGELBERG         .                24,26 

NUREMBUn 

.    49 

ZARAGOZA  . 

.     68 

FRANKIORT        ...    26 

OSTSND 

.         .     4» 

ZURICH 

.     69 

FREIBURG  IN  BADEN       .     26 

OXFOBI>'       • 

.       49,60 

A     ■ 

MURRArS  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER.  May, 


MEssRa  J-  ik  R.  m«c;ra<)kei^; 

88,  QUEEN  STKEET,  OAMOS  STBEET,  E.G., 

▲GIEITTB,  BT  AFPOIimEXHT,  TO  TRK  BOTAt  AOJLDEKf^,  MATIOVAL  OAUiEBT, 
AVD  OOTEBHIIXHT  DSI^ABTIEEKT  OT  MIKKCiB  AND  ABT, 

enrsBAL  aitd  lOBsiev  Aesns, 

WINE  MEROHANTS, 

Assents  for  Boavier's  Nencliatel  CHamiMifne, 


FOB  THB  BBOBFTION  AND  SHXFMKNT  OF  W0BK8  OF  ABT,  BAG6AGB,  &0., 

raox  JLVP  TO  aui  fahts  or  t^k  woua»b 

Avmil  tbemMlrefl  of  ttri*  oi^porflintisr  tst  IMim  tbete  tineen  titcnks  to  tfab  Nobtlity  and 
Qentry  for  the  patronage  hitherto  conferred  on  them,  and  hope  tp  be  honoured  witii  a  con* 
t!nnanoe  of  their  fayonrs.  Their  charges  are  framed  wi^th  a  doe  regard  to  econpm^,  and  the 
same  care  and  attention  will  he  bestowed  as  heietalbfe  upon  all  packages  passing  throngii 
their  hands.  —  ^^ 

DRY  AND    SPACIOUS    WAREHOUSES, 

Where  Works  of  Art  and  all  descriptions  of  Property  oan  be  kept  during  the  Owner's 

•absenoe;  at  most  roodeMM  rates  of  rent. 
Purties  faymnrlng  J.  and  R.  M^.  with  their  CoiislgnBoeiiU  are  requested  to  be  particalar 
in  haying  the  Bills  of  Lading  sent  to  them,  tobbcx  1^  PMt,  and  also  to  forward  taetr  Keys 
with  the  Padcages,  as,  although  the  contents  may  be  ft»  of  Duty,  all  Packages  are  still 
■XAMnntD  by  the  Gnstoms  immediately  on  arriyat  Auinges  sent  by  Steamers  or  otherwise 
to  Southampton  and  Uyerpool  alsoattended  to ;  b^t  all  JLetters  of  Adytee  and  Bills  of  iodkig 
to  be  addressed  to  jJBi  <)oxbn  Strut,  as  aboye. 

AOENTS  IN  ENGLAND  OF  MR.  J.  M.  FARINA, 
Ol&aBN0BEB  DEM  JuLIOB'B  PLATZ,  COLOGNB, 

VOB  HIS 

CELEBRATED  EAU  DE  COLOGNE. 


MiSSSRS.  J.  AND  R.  MCCRACKEN'S 

PRINCIPAL   COBRCSPONOENTB. 

ALGIERS Mr.  P.  DiaspaNi, 

ALEXANDRIA Mr.  A.  Mokfsbrato. 

ALICANTE Mr.  P.  B.  Dahulitdsb. 

ANCX>NA    ,,  Messrs.  MooBB,  MOBKLLR,  ft  Oo. 

ANTWERP Messrs.  F.  MoKHXiH  k  Go. 

BAD  EMS Mr.  H.  W.  THtKL. 

BASLE Mr.  Obts.  DB  J.  PmawSBK.    Mr.  J.  J.Fbbt. 

BERLIN Mr.  Lion  M.  OoHB,  Comm**.  BatpMlteuT. 

BERNE Messrs.  A.  BauBB  A  Go. 

BETROUT Messrs.  HbvbtHbald  ft  Co. 

BOLOGNA Messrs.  Rbroli.  BvGOie^  ft  Oa 

BOMBAY Messrs.  Knro,  Knra,  ft  Go. 

BORDEAUX Messrs.  AXABBOHT  ft  Ftu. 

BOULOGNE  8.  M. . . .  Messrs.  MoBT.ft  Go. 

BRUSSELS •  Messrs.  VBBSTBABTOr  Db  Mbubs  ft  Fns. 

CALAIS.. ^«  Mes8ri.L.J.  YoouBftCo. 

CALCUTTA. »...*«•  Messrs.  EiHO,  Hamilton  ft  Go. 

CAIRO* Mr.  A.  MomrBBBATa 

CANNES Messr&J.TATiOBftRiDDBR.'.  ^ 

CARLSBAD Mr.  Tboxas  Wolv,  Glass  Manolsotinw. 

CARRARA Sig.  F.  BiBNADif ,  Sonlplor. 

CHRISTIANIA  ....  Mr.  H.  HBvrkABN. 

COLOGNB Mt.  J.  M.FABiirA,  gegenllber  dfm  JOlich's  Plats. 

CONSTANTINOPLE  Mr.  Altbbd  C.  Lauohtos. 


18834  MUBRIT^  HA9DB0OE  AB VSKTfiBIfti  3  • 

xoaBAcooEM's  LUX  or.ixiBBsnon)i]rT0--«MMMMi. 

(X)PENHAaSN....r9tMB«V]K'J^«firo|^«^  1  '< 

OOBFU Mr.J.  wTTatlok. 

I    8e  Go.     Slff.  Tixo  Qaguamdj^  Dealer  in  Antiquities.    Meesre. 

FLOBENGl {    Maquat,  Hooku,  &  Go.    Mr.  £.  QoodbaVi^  Printseller.    Mr.  T. 

t'  IBkifMBan,   MMido  W(DriMr.     ICeeim.   ^.'  Baxeavti   ft   Fig., 

F^^Kil^l^O^M.     Ht!ffi^*!^^^^kr.'0.K^  *      \ 


aENEVA HCA^LyvsisBftPiuuiBB. 

awn  A  i  MeMti  O.  ft  £.  H4Bom  Bbotbibs. 

^*^"'* \Mf.  0:  A.  WiLSttBr.    MiE.  H.  A.  Moe«A,  GFniide  Albei|to  d'ltalia. 

QimwmM^ Umm^JmrBt^mBik  Co, 

HAMBuBo MeflVB.  J.  P.  JKNss^  ft  Go.    Meearfi*  Sohobmsb  ft  TKroHXAmr. 

ilEIDELBEBG Mr.  Ph.  ZnaanitAinr. 

HEmnygre^i.;.    Mesani.  LuTHn ft  RuooKPH. 
INTEBLAGKEn  . » . .    Mr.  J.  <3^K)isxAia(.. 

JERUSALEM MeesM.  S.  F.  SravLBB  ft  Go.    Mr.  M.  BEMioaiE,  Jtm. 

KISSINQEK Mr.  David  KuOBLMAinr.    Mr.  H.  F.  Kugklmavk. 

LiCnHiKirE Mr.I>OBOt8BaiDn.ftEn8. 

LB^gORN ^ . , . .....    Meesr8,Aux.  Maomaw  ft  Go.    Meein. MAqirAT, Hooxbb,  ft  Po. 

LUGEBNE  .: MessTB.  t.  EnOrb  ft  file. 

MADRAS Measrs.  Bnnrr  ft  Co. 

MALAQA.:/. .    Mt.Gsonci^Ho^li.  i    \  T  '7 

(Messrs.  Jd0k.  DABVAKm  ft  Som,  40,  Strada  Levante,  Mdealc 
MALTA <     Worken«  •  Mr.  Fobtwaio  Tm^.Sa,  Strada  Sta  Lada.    Mesars. 

(    TuBnBnfi  Jim.  ft  6(mhRTn.L& 

MARIENBAD Mr.  J.  T.  Adlu.  GlasB  Mannfacturer. 

MARSEILLES  .......    Messrs.  E.  Caullql  «nd  H..  Sahtxhsiibil  , ,, , . 

MENTONE Mr.  pAtiCA»a.  ^r.  Jba»  Oittlfdo  FUs.  '  * 

MEBSQ9A>,.^. .«...;  ' Metsn. Ctau«B,  Walkpb,  ft  Oq. 

MILAN Meters.  OLitrdti  8c  Co.    Messrs.  O.  Boko  ft  Oo. 

MUNICB. V .    Messrs,  Wiitnx;ft  Co.,  Printsellers.  Brlein«r.  atwwee. 

NAPLES  i  Messrs.*  I W.,  J./TintHj^n-  ft  (jo.    Mci  6.  Sqala,  Wine  Merchant. 

^^      JV 1    Mesars.  ^.  Qdesta  ft  Co.    Messrs.  Cshulu  i^  Co.. 

*^^^^y^^^       ;  I  Messrs.  BbuvrtB  PafiiMM,Wiiie  Merchants^ 

NEW  YORK.V.V.V.    Messrs.  Baldwih  Bros,  ft  Co. 
NIGB .  a  .^.  • .;««.. .  /Madame  Vn.  AvoLvsa  LAOSoct,  Mbja  ft  Oo.        i . .  . 
NlTREMBEB^j...^,.    Mr.  A.  PxanRT,  Dealer  in  Antifl^itlec^ 
08TEND...........    Messrs.  R.OT.  AMOtfR  ft  Son. 

PALERMO Messrs.  Inosak.  Win»Alk<«,  ft  Ob. 

PAK13... Mr. L. C^BifUB. Packer, Rue Croi^f  des Ffitits Ghainps, No. 34. 

PAO. ,..^...    Mr.  Mtoo^vb  CiAT.  . 

pro.  (Messrs.  fiuouKT  ft  Vas  Lnit»  Sculptors  in  Alaoaster  and  Marl/te 

^^^ \  Mr.  G.  Andrboni,  Sculptor  In  Alabaster. 

PRAOnBr. . .; Mr.  W.' Mwmakh/OYsss  Mannfaetnrer,  BlaHern  Stert. 

(Messrs.  Piowdbn  ft  Go.    Messrs.  A.  Magbban  ft  Co.     Meisn.- 
RQMB..k«....^-«..y  Maqvat,  Hoovib,  ft  Go.    Messrs.  Spada  ft  FvAimri.    Mr. 

\      A.  TOK BZNU 

ROTTERDAM. .....    Messrs.  Prbstor  ft  Ob. 

SAN  REMO Messrs.  Fratblli  Asquabgoati. 

ST.  PETERSBURG  .    Messrs.  Thomson,  Bonar,  ft  Go.    Mr.  G.  Kruokr. 
STOCKHOLM..*  ..    Messni. OtaMT arWki«B« 

THOUNE  ; Mr.  Jbak  Ebhblt-Stbborl 

T^IPSTE  4 Messrs.  Fiu.  Ghibsa. 

TOBIN Mflssm.  RoDBAS,  Pdre  ft  FHs.' . 

Trvwrnv  J  Mr.  L.  BoVARpl,  Ponte  alie  Ballo^te. 

VAaxvA   .» ..•  ^Messw-  S,  ft  A.  BLXJMBNtHAL  ft  Co.    Mr.  Garu>  Ponti 

VEVEY Mr.  JuLBB  G<TA2  Fas. 

!Mr.'H.  XSixMbBi  Glass  ManaflBotarer.  1<  Kanitbner  StrMse. 
Messrs.  J.  ft  L.  LoBUBtRR*  Glass  MantHwinMrsL  18,  KiniihnjBr 
Stiaise.    Ms.  Pbibb  Compiaisb. 
ZlJRIGH....«.«.^f,.    Mr.ORRuSwiS.  \  . 


B  2 


4  MVnurB  HAHDIOQK  ADWKTI8ER  Itaj," 

GLASGOW  AND   SOUTH-WESTERN    RAILWAY. 
I  DIRECT  ROUTE  BXTWBXN 

SCOTLANB  &  EirOLAND. 

TBBOUOB  TBAINS  ASS  BfTS  BKTWBBN 

GLASGOW  (St.  Eaooh)  and  LONDON  (St  Paoeras}, 

rid  the  GLASGOW  ft  SOUTH-WESTBBN  and  MIDLAKD  RAILWAYS; 
Gl¥iog  *  Direoft  and  Szpeditiooa  Serrloe  between 

OLABGOW,  GEESNOGK,  PAISLEY,  AYB,  ABBBOBtAH,  XILlCASmOK, 

BtTMmSS,  fto.,  ASP 

UVXBPOOL,  MAVCHX8TEB,    BBASTOSD,    LBSDB,  BKJSfjflKLD, 

BBISTOLi  BATH,  BnaCJrOHAM,  lOBBOK,  fto. 

PULLMAN    DRAWING-ROOM  AND   SLEEPING   CARS 

Are  rnn  by  the  Mondng  cod  Evening  fizprees  Trains  between  GLASGOW  and  LONDON. 


FIRTH    OF   CLYDE    and    WEST   HIGHLANDS, 

via  GREENOCK. 


EXPRESS  and  FAST  TEAtliS  are  ran  at  oodyeolent  hfmri  between  . 

OLASGO^V^     «D     GUfcEElVOCK: 

(St  EBSCh  Station)  ClUTBBdoeh  St^  aad  Prlnoei  Pier  StMiona) 

IN  D311CT  ODNinBCTION  WITH  THE 

"  COLUMBA,"    "  lONA," ,  "  LORD    OP    THE    ISLES/' 

And  other  Steamers  sailing  to  and  ftxnn  , 

Xim,  Dunoon,  Tnnftllan,  Bofheeay,  KylM  of  Bute,  Ardriahaig,  Obaiii 
InYorary,  tugg,  XUlport,  Slereggan,  ZHmnn,  Loohgoillieady 

OareloglilMadi  Ao. 

Through  Cflri^i^ges  are  ran  by  certain  Trains  between  (^RSENOCK  (Princes  Pier),  and 
►IDINBUBQH  CWaverl«*y),  and  by  the  Mornmg  and  Evening  ICxpreea  Trains  between 
GKEKNOCK  (Princies  PTer)  and  London  (St.  Pancras). 

RETURN  TIOKBTSiMaedto  COAST  TOWNS  are  avsllahle  «br  RETURN  AT  ANY 
TIME. 

Passengers  are  landed  at  Prfnoee  Pier  Station,  tmm  irhencSe  there  i^a  Owered  Way  fo  the 
Pier  where  the  Steamers  call ;  and  Passengeris'  Lnggajj^e  is  conveyed  ysbk  of  gbulbox 
between  the  Station  and  the  Steamers. 


ARRAN  AND  AYRSHIRE  COAST. 

An  Express  and  Fast  Train  Service  is  given  between  GLASGOW  (St.  Bnooh),  PAISLEY, 
and  TROON,  PRE8TWICK,  AYR,  ARCROBSAN,  FAIRLIG,  te. 

From  ARDR0S8AN  the  Splendid  Saloon  Steamer  **  BRODICK  CASTLE  **  sails  jdafly  to 
and  ftom  the  ISLAND  OF  ARRAN.  in  connection  With  the  Ejcpress  Train  Service. 

Fast  Trains  prov^Aed  withThroat^  Osoiagea  mn  between  AYR,  fcc,  and  GLASGOW, 
(St.  Ehedk),  and  EDtNSURGH  (Waverley). 

.Fbr  Particulari  at  to  Traint  and  Steamen  tee  Oomjpawg't  Ttmt  Jiablet. 
May,  1883.  W.  J.  WAINWRIGHT,  General  Manager. 


188d.  MUfUUT'S  HANDBOOK  ADVfiKTISfiR*  5 

LONDON  AND  SOUTH  -  WESTERN  RAILWAY, 

LONDON  STATION,  WATERLOO   BRIDGE. 

The  Ch^ap  and  Picturesqua  Boute  to  Pairis,  HavrcL  Bpuw, 
Honfleur;  \nx>uvllle,  and  Cfaen,  vid  Southampton  ana  Havre, 
eyery,MoQ4ay9  Weduevday,  and  Friday.  The  last  Train  fram,  l^ondonat 
9  p.m.  goes  into  Southampton  BocIdb  alongside  the  Steamer.  Fabes 
thiougbotit  (London  to  Paris^,  Single  Joiorney,  First  Qlass,  83«. ;  Seeond 
CkMM»  240.  Doable  Journey  (ayailabje  for  One  Monik),  bi)i  mfny  ba  ex- 
tended for  an  extra  payment),  PiirBi  Olais,  d5«. ;  Seoond  Glass,  39«. 

Jexsey,  auems^y,  OraifLVlUB,  and  Bt.  HiUo.  Daily  Mail  gervice 
ia  Ohanuel  Isles,  vid  Southampton  (the  favGurite  nratt»),  erary  WvelHlay. 
The  last  Train  from  I<ondon  goes  mto  Bonthampton  Dooks^  alon^de  the 
Steamer,  leaving  Waterloo  eaoh  Week-day  at  9  p.m.  (except  on  Saturdays, 
on  which  day  the  last  Train  leaves  at  5A5  p.m.«  and  the  Steamer  gpes  to 
Jersey  only).  Fabis  throughout  (London  and  Jersey. or  Guernsey),  Single 
Journey,  First  Glass,  88f . ;  Seoond  CJlaos,  28& ;  Tliird  Glass,  SOt.  Double 
Journey  (avisilable  for  One  Month  during  the  whiter,  and  for  Two  Months 
in  summer),  First  Glass,  48*. ;  Second  Glass,  SSs. ;  Third  Glass,  30|.  Direct 
8eifmic€i  BtnUhamtfUm  to  8t.  JdalOi  every  Monday^  WedimtcUMff  tuid  Friday, 
aeeording  to  Tide,  The  best  Route  for  Dinard,  Dinan,  Bennet,  Brest, 
Nantes,  Laral,  Le  IMtens,  Angers,  Avran'oheB,  ftc 

Southampton  to  Gherbourg  every  Monday  and  Thursdav*    Lasjt  strain 
from  the  Waterloo  8tatiop»  London,  at  90  a-m*     The  best  Bonte  f^r 
Valognes,  Oarentan,  St.  Lo,  Bayeaux,  and  Ooutanoes. 
eieufnevi  r«n  between  Jersey  and  SI*  Halo,  and  Jersey  and  fSjr«nTt)V^) 

two  or  three  times  Weelcly  eacli  way. 
Vm  fiirtb«r  iuformatioii  apply  to  Mr.  B££¥N£TTt  S53.  Boe  St.  HpiKve,  ^ris ;  Jlr..I^|«}- 
STAPF,  6»,  Grand  QwO,  Bavre;  Mr.  BNAULT,  Honflfur:  Mr.  E.  SPURRIER,  Jeraev ; 
Mr.  SPENCEBy  Qaemsav^  Mr.  £.  D.  LE  COUT£UB>  SI.  Malo ;  M«iBn- ^MAHI£U, 
ChertwvrR :  or  tf 'Mr.  K  K.  COBKE,  Steam  Packer,  Saperinterdent,  Souttiampton. 

QHEAT    EASTERN    RAILWAY. 

TflB.TOIIRI$TS:JOntE  TO  THE  COIlTmEi^T 

This  GontiBental  Bxpreas  Train  leaves  Liverpool  Street  Station,  London, 
for  Botteidam  and  Antwerp  oTery  eTeoine  (Sundays  excepted),  in  dlnect 
connection  with  the  Fast  and  elegl^ntly  fitted-np  jrassenger  Steamers  of 
the  Gompany. 

The  Steamers  are  large  powerftd  yessels^  ranging  from  800  to  1100  tons 
burden,  with  ample  sleeping  aocomniodation ;  and  oonsequently  Passengers 
wfteA  less  iirom  mo^  de  mer  than  by  any  of  the  shorter  Sea  B<mtes. 

The  PfOYisions  o^  Bpard  are  supplied  from  the  Gompany 's  oyrn  Hotel 
at  Harwich,  and  are  unequalled  in  quality.  Luggage  can  be  registered 
through  to  all  prlnc^raj  Towns  on  the  Continent  ttcm  Liverpooi  Q^et 
Station.  G^hwHigh  Tiakats  are  issued  at — 44,  Begent  Street  ^^  48,  Lime 
Street;  and  Blossom's  Inn,  Lawrence  Ll^le,  Gheap9ide,  I4«P*#  axid.tjie 
Continental  Booking  Office,  Liyerpool  St.  Station,  Loudon,  £).G« 

New  direct  BO(Aing  between  the  North  of  England  and  %^  Gontlhent, 
vift  Doncaster,  March,  and  Harwich. 

The  Gontinental  Boat  Express  leaves  Doncaster  at  4.48  p.m.  every 
week-day.  Thlpugh  Tickets  can  b^  obtained  at  the  Great  iTortheco 
stations  at  Bradford,  Halifax,  Leeds,  and  at  Doncaster,  SpahUng,  Steaford, 
Lincoln,  and  Gainsboro'.  For  further  particnl,ars,  .Time  jSooks,  ^c.,Jivpply 
to  Mr.  W.  Bbiggs,  Great  Northern  Station,  Doncaster,  or  to  the-  Gon- 
tineiittail  Traflfe  Mani^gar,  Liverpool  Street  Sti^tion.  Lottdooi  1«Q» 


•  6  MURRAY'S  HANI>B00K  ADVEMlSEft.  May, 

DUBLIN    AND    QLASG0W'9T£AM   PACKET   COMPANV. 


The  ^ninEU)y*B  Firtt'cUM  Salpon  Paddle  Steamiprs, 

Dtik^, of  Argyll,  Btike  oif  Iieinstervliord  Clyde,  Xiord  Gk>tigli, 

'    ,  OR     OTHER     STEAMERS, 

Am  fntended  to  6«ll  u  per  Monthfy  Safltng  biU<  vnleee  prevented  by  itoy  niiforefleeti 

oocartinoe,  from 

Every  MONDAY,  WEDNESDAY  and  FRIDAY,    tttd  every  Altidiiite  TUESDAV, 

THURSDAY  Awl  SATUHDAY.    From 


--4. 

B^nBrT"'  MONDAY,  WEDNESDAY  and  FRIDAY,  and  every  aUemaKe  TUE60AY, 
THURSDAY  andSATUIiOAY,  oottiag  at  aseenook  both  -wayB,  except  Saturday  BokX 
1!][QI9  I>abUn,  which  prpce^  direct  to  filaegoff  . 


£  i»  d, 
Oabift  Fare,  (Inclodlng  Steward's 

Ftoa)      . 0  16  0 

KetiiraTiQket0(f Mouths).    .     J  2  6 


gteesa^P «     Q    6    0       Betom  Tk^    to  fidinburgh 

Ketnrn  Tickets  (6  Months) .    .     0  10    0  -—-.-.- 

"fliiq^e  Ticket  to  Edlubnrgh      .10    0 


Betom    Ticket  to  Edinburgh  £   i.  d. 

(2  Months)  ........  I    10  0 

Single    Ticket    to    Edlnbiirgh 

(Srd  Class  and  Ded^  ...  0   Jl  6 


(2   Mouths)   (3rd  Class  and 


O  14    d 


Fassengers  can  travel  betwen  <SMeenock  and  XkUnborgh  DIteet,  witbotft  diangb  of 

,  eaiTtege^  1^  eithfei'  CalBdoniBa  oe  Itorlli  Brltiah  Bailway,  accordkig  to  the  Tidket  they  htrilil. 

The  Caledonian  Railway  Sutions  are  .Cath^art  Street, «GmMiajk;   fmd,  Prince's  jSti^vc, 

Edlnhorgb.  r  North  British-  Company*8--t^aoch  Street,  Ureenock ;  and  Haymarket  /md 

WavSifMtioai.  BdittbSiih.  •  '-  '  . 

§!^fiatbng6n  arti  also  Booked  Through  between  Dnbtln  and"the  principal  BallW^ 

Stations  in' Sooti^nd.  ' 

'JtC^Birrs.— HlMitT  Lakost,  93,  Hope  Street,  Glasgow.    jImes  Ltttuf  &  Co.,tikclJJb 

.   ^^  Bnildld^  Qreenock. 

ntfBMjtfS    Ol^incSiS.— Booking  Office  Ibr  Passengers^t  Eden  Qoay ;  where  Beftbs 
'         canbeeecarednpto2d'clock.p.in.,  ondaypf  Sbtllni^ 

'    'CHXSF    OMICig    AKlt»    «VORS!|S.-^7l,  KOBTH  WALL. 

FwlherptrticphOT,Montiilymito,&a.onaro^^  yAJOT/Jl^'mSlfo^ 

GtHERAL  STEAM  NAVI6ATWN  COMPANY^ 

ildNOOM  ANP'SOULOOfeHE.'^^or  d«pM««n8  «M  Dailn  ¥$9tn.  'F^U-LimdoKitoBddloaBei 

lO«.,orTt. ;  Q«tni7Ei Ifif ,  M.  or  0«.  ,         ,  •  -, 

'     L0Nt)Of*l  to  PAfilS    diireot  from  lioxidon,  via  Botdogne.-FiBES-Sbiou  (aTailaiile  for 
Three  Daya).  Moon,  Ut  Claas  BaU,  II.  6«.  6d. ;  Saloon,  iod  COas   BaQ,  U.  1«. :  Fore  OaUn,  Sad  iiUm  Ball. 
19t.  I  ^  Gliua  BafU  16^    Betvm  (f rallaUe  for  Fonrtceni I>i^,.$(2.  9*.  fii^i  Ik  Vff^  {  12. 13«.  i  IL  U- . 
'  '  LONDON  AMD  HAVRE.— BToiTThandaT;    From  ^^srte-^ifvrr  fiwadkj.     I'AltBdVllndeC 
4Mli&,Ui^,-jiraOiAfai.»fc;Btttyn.l»^  )'    J  < 


LO^bON    aNO  ANtW£RP.-->VBhrTSieMayKnd«ahinlky.    j^roni' lAHWexlH-BTtaT  TtiMay 
pfoAWOmr^.^iSm  Obl«r<Mitai,  l(«.  :  FoffCaUivUt.   tMatniiWt->fwi41^  .  I     .  7 

LONDdN  Af4D  'BdRDS AliX^-^Bra^ThttnttT-     V»om  Aoydeanuti  Jwr  IWdaju .  FJOl^ 

GUerqi^V-rf^OWiSt.    Ba*ap'Hctat^OhIefOabln.N*  ~      "    "* 

^  tONOON  ANt)  1TALY.7^n6ajijBghom.llrapleis. 


eaaiuat'and '  ^^i^^mo-— Breryt^zi 


LONDON  AHO; QPpRTQl^^BnnF  (hrio  we^fa.  F^BBS,  8A«'. qiief.Oiiib«a,on^  r  XadiiBV,  l(ta.,^atra. 

LONDON   ANb    EDINBURGH    (QaAiiwm  Pmaf-BvwT  W<4Miday  jgd  Ait^ 
Bmnburgh  (Granton  Pier)— Every  Wedneedajand  Batarday.   lUOtSd,  Chief  diU^aSfci  iWOatta.  m8 
Bft|i|rn.84a,aBd9«i^M.  j;^.(|^Qldi«»wt4  8ail«oi,^y)^10t.   ,  ,  .    j 

J  il^QfNDON  AMO<  YAJtM6UTMj>4FinBitLoad<«L  BzUb  Wbkkir.  2  i>iitfiir  ibarsia&ttir^liBM  Hai^ 
o^nioath.,    (,t    i-,    .      ;    ,   •■     •  ■ii;;,j''     •  •.,,... 


1888.  mrRRATS  HANDBOOK  ADTfiRTISBR. 


SUMMER   TOURS    IN    SCOTLAND. 

GLASGOW    &   THE    HIGHLANDS. 

(Boyal  Rttote  irjfi  Crinan  and  Caledonian  Calials.) 

NEW    SCREW    STEAM    SHIP    CAVALIER. 

The  B<^  Mail  8teamer»-oiaymore,  Columba,  lona,  HotLntaineer,  GlaiiBman, 

Glenooei  Cheyalier,  Pioneer,   Olydeidale^  Glen; airy,   Gondolier,  Staffit, 

Linnet  Fingal*  Loehiel,  Islay,  and  IhVerary  Castle.  Sail  during  the  Season 

tor  ISLAT,  LOCHAWE,  OBAN,  FORT-WILLIAM,  Df VBRNB8B.  STAFFA,  lONA, 
GLENOOE.  TOBERMORY,  PORTREE,  8TR0ME-FERRY,  GAIRLOCH,  ULLAPOOL, 
LOCHINVER,  AeSXORNOWAY;  affording  Tourists  an  opportmiity  of  visiting  the  mag- 
nifkwnt  Scenery  of  Lochawe,  Glei^ooe,  the  OadinUin  HillSk  Looh  Seavaig,  Loob  Cemisk, 
Looh  Maree,  ana  the  famed  Islands  of  Stoffa  and  lona. 

Official  Guide  Bode,  Sd.  lUoaCBated.ed. ;  clothgilt,  1«.  Time-Bills,  with  Map  and  Tourist 
Fares,  tne,  of  Measrt.  Goatto  and  WnrouB«  PnhUshera^  214,  Piocadilly,  London;  or  by  post 
fhim  the  owner.  DAVID  MACBRAYNE,  119,  Hope  Street,  Glasgow. 

GLASaOW,  BELFAST,  BRISTOL.  OARDIFF,  AND  SWANSEA. 

OioryiDg  gMAi  iw.Ntwporl  (Hon.)  lattar,  OUmoMicr,  (Aeltanham,  Ae.,  *e. 
TbB  Sovew  Steamshipe  **Sohoay,'*   **  Awn,"  "Sl^vsm,**  PrinoesB  Alexandrcit"  or  other 
SteoDMSB  an  intended  to  sail  (xmless  prevMited  by  drcmnstances)  from  Glasgow, 

>•  >■  calling  at  Grctenock. 

To  BibMk  vid  fielSstst  eveiy  Ifonday  and  Thursday  at  2  p.m. 
To  [Swansea  every  Friday     •        .        .        ;        .        „  a  pjn. 
To  Cardiff  every  Friday       ...,,,,  2  pjn. 
.  z^     BilsioA  to  Glasgow  vA  Belfast  every  Monday  and  Tnursoay. 
SwraseatoGla^w    „       „  „     Wednesday. 

Cndur  to  Glasgow    ;,    Swansea  and  Belfast  every  Monday. 
Hmss  fMaannai  Inva  wit  mfrltae  aBODolMtettoil  vnr  paaMngen.  and  alford  a  fimmraUa  opportuoUf  for 
_     .  <  making  dUenwloiK-ftqrii'^wtof  Kngiand  to  Ireland  and  Scotland. 

Fares  from  Glaagow  ^Kiabin,  ilOa.       Steerage.  ISs.  6d.     Soldiers  and  Bailors,  lOs. 
Tares  from  B«IJQMt^~       „       17b.  6d.  »         lOs. 

>    ..;B^tiinui :— Cabin  aad  Stfwase,  Tare  and  Half,  avulliible  ibr  Two  Months, 
gar  ratea  of  freight  and  ftirtbgr  partionlaiB,  apfply  to 

•■ WILLIAM  BLOAW  &  Co.,  140,  Hope  Street,  Glasgow. 

Gt&m)  HOTEL  DE  L'EUROPE. 

Proprietor,  J.  BUBNASCON. 

FIBST-OLASS  House,  admirably  situated  near  the  Oasiuos, 
the  Bath%  and  <&e  Ekigli^h  Ohureh.  Thi^  H5tel  'is 
strongly  recpmfiaended  to  'Tr&v,ellerfil  for  the  eajffdoxt  o£  its 
ajwurigemeTita,  >  The  largest  and  moi^t  beautiful  Garden  in  the 
town.  Large  and  small  Apartment^  and  a  Clkh^let  in  the 
Gttpdon^  f(M»-  Families  who  may  prefer  4)exttg^  out  of  ilier'Hdtel. 
Two  vast  Villas,  built  in  the  garden  in  1882,  will  give  140 
additional  Bopmifi  and  Salopne.  Excellent  Tab^e  d'Hdte.  Open 
aU  the  YeMtX  LAW  TENNIS.  '         ' 

OlzinlbtiiB  to  meet  every  Train.' 

ADt  -  LA  -  CHAPELLEm 

:  «]|AH]>  XOHASqini  HOTEL.  KAISEBBAB  HOTEL  (InUt  it  1M6\ 

QqaQbytheBwawayStatioBAandthABattw.       The  principal  Spring  riassinithe  Hotel  itself. 

NTTELLEK'S  HOTEL.  ItfSVBAD    fiOTBIh 

Opposite  the  Fountain  "  Eliza."  (Renovated  In  1879.) 

Mr.  G.  F.  DBEMBL  is  thii  Etoptietot  of  theie  foar  hotels  ef  linropeaa  reputatkin.  The  oombtaaUom  In 
one  hand  of  Four  BBtablidunents  of  such  magnitude,  enables  Mr.  Dremel  to  allord  saitable  aooommedattom 
to  all  oomen ;  to  visitors  to  whom  nuoegr  is  saol^ecl^  aa>«ija  as  to  fartiafideslKnu  of  UTinc  at  a  moderate 
rate  of  expense.     "  Bxoellent  Hotels,^  vid*  Horray. 


f 


MCBBAT'S  HANDBOOK  ADyBRTlSBB. 


M«y, 


AIX-LES"  PAINS. 

HOTEL  VENAT  and  BRISTOL. 

OPEN    ALL    THB    T21AB    BOUND. 

EUROPEAN  BEPUTATION. 

8  P  LENDID    HOT  E  L, 

200  Booms  and  Slttug  Koonuh  with  Lift  and  all  dodrable  OomfortB. 
Sngliih  Ohapel,  Oonyeyaneo-  by  (hnnibnt  to  the  Baths  and  Oasinos. 

OPSN  the  Ist  of  Mareh,  1834. 

G.  BOSSIGNOLT,  Proprietor  and  Manager, 


AIX-LA-CHAPELLE,  . 
UOYBB'S  IftC^BlAL  GROWK  BOrEL, 
^^  near  the  Kurbaa§  and  Batia-houMa,  with 
large  Garden.  Very  oomfortabte  Aput- 
menU.  Single  Booxna.  Ezc^llant  Oookiog, 
And  attentive  attendance.  Very  Iklodecate 
Chargea,  and  adyftntageon*  arrangeoMotsfor 
Winter.  OrrOHOYIfiR. 


AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. 

H OYER'S  UNION  HOTEL.  Ftrs^GlaBB 
Hotel,  immediiEtety  opposite  the  RlieniBli 
BaUway  Station,  and  admirably  tltuted  In 
the  beat  port  of  tho  dty.  Woilrkao vn  fw 
its  deanlhiefla,  comfortable  apartmenta, 
oxoeUent  cooking,  and  Modeilte  Gharaea. 

GHABLBS  HOYEK. 


ALA88IO  (Riviera  di  Ponente,  Italy.)  ' 
Magnilioent  winter  resort.     Finest  shore  for 
yv  SeaFbathijig. 

BOTEL  SUISSE  iliSSH). 


l&gudi  d&tlroh  and  the  B«ilro< 


>Vai)d 


oom/orteUe  tut 


tionnMr  the 
^tstlou.     Moet 
Wodenta  pcioee. 
lOKBLBSSaSU,  Proprietor. 


AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. 
XX7BBAT'9  :pA£n)BOOK. 

NORTH  GERMANY  AND  THE  RHINE. 

Post  8V0.    10<. 

John  Mttbrat,  Albemarle  Street. 


:«> 


^  AMIENS. 

TTOTEL    DE    L'UNIVBB6.—Fint-01aS8    Hotel,   facing   St  Denis 
•^•*'    Allure,  ;ie%r  the  BaiL^ay  Station.  Three  minatw'  ^alk,tQ  the  Gat^ial. ,  Dfvring 
and  Bath  looms.    EhgUah  Interpreter. 


Oxnnibua  of  the  Hotel  at  every  Tr^in. 


•  AMIENS. 

H0T1E:hJ>M  FKANQE,  P'ANaLE'l^ERBB,  mad  PS  L'ECOtOPE. 
BRULE,  Proprietor .—First^laas  HoteL  oneof  the  oldest  on  thf>  Contiijieiit.  Sitnated 
ih  the  oeAtre  and  the  flndrt  part  of  the  town.  Having  reoentfy  been  newly  fttmlafaed,  ft  offers 
me^  coiftfQfft,  Fa^li«s  and  Single  Qf»^lenien  aooommodated  with  ootamkmi  BxOtitB  of 
Apartments  and  Sij^e  Booms. 

OMNIBUS  AT  STATION.       BNOLXSH  SPOKEN. 


!'•' 


'yppi>< 


M*M«4««»irf 


. » 


ANTWERP. 

h6TEL  ST.  ANTOINE. 

PLACE    VERTE,    Opposite  the   Cathedral 

THIS  ezoellent  FIBST-0LA8S  HOTEL,  vhioh  enjoys  the  well- 
merited  favoar  of  Families  and  Tonrtsts,  has  been  re-purchased  m  its  old  and  well- 
known  Pk-ot)rieto^»  SCr.  SCHMTIT  SPAENHOVEN,  who,  with  his  f  artaer.  Will  do  «v«ry- 
tbltig  in  their  power  to  rander  the  Yisit  of  $11  persona  who  may  honour  than  with  fhelr 
patronage  at  agreeriOle  and  oam6>rtaUe  aa  poeijfble. 

BATHS    IN    THE    HOTEL. 

HODBKATa     PKICSg. 


Ill  *  up 


i8dd. 


MdRftArS  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


AHTWEBF. 


^**- 


HOTEL  DD  GKAP  UBOnEEUB. 

■  . '  I 

rpHIS  Hotel  oooupies  the  first  rank  in  Antwerp,  and  itd 
^     posiiiion  is  most  deUg^tftil.    The  testimomals  giTeii  by  >  PamiHes 
1^  th0  best  ^surance  of  its 

COMFORT   AND    MODERATE    CHARGES. 


AHCO. 
Near  Biw  €hrda  Xtiee^  S&u^  Tyrol,  Awtria. 

HOTEL    OLIVO   AND    PENSION   BELLBVUE 

Situated  in  tli€i,.ceiitr©  of  the  Promenades,  with  Southern  aspect 

AUGUST  BRACHER,  iVopriflfor. 

■'     '"     '"^  ARNHEM,    HOLLAND.      '  •'*    "■ 

A.  AOEHA,  Proprietor. 
n^HE^abovo  Firtti-elaiw  Hotel,  deli^tfuily  situated  on  theBhi2»e,aontaias 

•^,*  Skfty.laxa^  1^  Small  Apartments  aod  Booms^     CarrUirea.     Tplcnhnniia      n»^ 
Attendance  and  eve^  Comfort.    Modbbatb  CkABOss, 
the  present  Owner.    Highly  recommended  to  "JnngiiMh  Tc 


to 


M0RRA.TrS  HiiLNDB00K/AI>VSim8SB. 


>««»y!» 


ATHENE. 
THE      ]M:i3^EIt,^^J^., 

27,  HermoB  Street  %t 

TTISITORS  to  Athens  will  find  an  Aparianent  of  Antique 
^      Ooins  and  all  other  objects  of  ArchsBologioal  interest,  as  well  as 

Modem  and  Medittral  Oricttital^prddtiots,  Photogra»fas  of  Lltheiis,  &Ci,)&|fe.' 
.jEyerjr  Object  sold^lnire  is  Guaranteed,  and  will  oe  t^ken  back  and  toe 

money  returned  if  declared  not  to  be  genuine  by  a  recognised  authority. 

The  prices  will  be  found  considerably  lower  than  for  similar'  objects  at 

any  other  ^taNiehment  in  Athens.  . 

O.  POLYOiRONOPOXTLtTS  *  CO. 

'  AVIGHOr^.        7-  " 

HOTEL     DE  U«0  BE.      ^  • 

HIGHLY  recommended  to  English  Travellers  on  their  journey  to  Nice, 
.«Ita]y^  kc  Flrsi-GUss  and  Moderate  Prices.  Thcr  TttipeiStm  and  his  Wife  having 
livM  ia  Xbgland,  ire  aware  of  the  wants  of  English  Travellers;  and  he  assures  them  that 
their  oomfortsriuOl  be  studied.    Omnibus  a|  all  TrsAp& 

— ^^i— iM^— i^W  W        — Ai^  111  ■      ■       I      <l         I    I  »  I      <  III     l«     ■  1^     .      II   I 


AVRANChlkk 

MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK^OR.  FRINGE. 
HORUANDY,  BRITTANY,  PYRENEES, 

Jtc.    Poet  8vo.    Is.  0ci. 
JOQUT  HUBBAT,  Albemarle  StxeeU,^ 


AVRANOH^. 
Grand   H6tel   d'jMxgleterre 

DEOOMMENQS  itself  by  SjCcelleflb  Ar- 
*^  rangements,  its  Table,  and  its  Cbmiiort. 
Apartments  for  Ji'amUles.  English  Papers. 
Moderate   Prieei).      Omnibus   at    ail  the 

Trafais.       HOULLIXJATE,  Proprietor. 


Ibemai 


BADEN-BADEN. 

HOLtTAND    HOTEL 

iMiLll.PXFENDANCE   AIT   BEAtJ  c^EJOUR. 

OPEN  ALL  THE  VCAft  ROUND. 

THIS  favonrite  Firstrflass  Establishment,  it^tli  a  beantiM  ,0ard< 
•'-  situated  dose  to  the  Conversation  House,  nearest  to  the  Fte4^c  6a^(new  vapoi 
and  adjoining  the  Duchess  of  Hamilton's  Park.  It  is  prindpatly  patromaed  by  £$i 
American  Travellers  for  its  Comfort,  moderate  and  fixed  charges.  exceUlfiBtooo^lg^  and 
choictt(\Vinee(  :  9mda|ig' wid  I^ftpcUos  ^Bxtovfa  wi^  Piano,  and  Library.  Baths.  Prise 
Medals  for  Wines,  Vienna,  18Y3,  Philadelphia,  1876,  ftc.,  ftc  Pension  in  ths  sajilt 
AND  LATSK  FART  OF  Tqs  @ij;9Qi&  Booms  from  2s.  and  upwards.  Conducted  undte  the 
immediate  Superintendence  of  tEe  F^oprietor,  A.  B0E8SLER.  _       _      _ 

— • ?"i^iA    — ' "         ' 

•■^^  <^i-  BAQEN<-^'BADEMrr..v  i-.;/i 


vie  T  O  R,  I  A 


I '    ••  I 


_  ^^^.-^  -  —     "H.O  T  E  L 
'fvo^^BUft^  H^.ti^BAlfZ  oiiosHOik' 


commands  the  most  charming  vii^^  a&d  is  reptrted  to  be  one  of  the  best 
BMbs  i&  €liehnatiy.  <''^t«ipai]^f&<^i^iilied'  by  IBnglisli-i&d/Aiaidtiiixi 


^aVeUets. ;  HigUy  reconlmended /itt  ^verjr;  respect.'    Ptic^iiidctetfate.. 
Biiglish  andt  othejj  JQWnaJs.  '  '  '*     '         ' 


1    !(t  . 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


AMIENS. 

GRAND  HOTEL  DU  RHIN, 

PLACE  ST.  DENIS. 

"piKST-CLASS  HOTEL,  highly  recommended,  near  to  the 
Cathedral  and  Bailway  StatioD.  Affords  every  acoommodation. 
Spacious  Apartments  and  airy  Bed  Booms.  Private  and  Public  Saloons. 
Warm  Baths.  Large  Garden.  Stabling  and  Coach  Houses.  Omnibus 
to  and  from  each  Train.  English  Interpreter.  The  house  is  newly 
furnished. 

CH.   FICHBUX,  Proprietor. 


BOULOGNE  -  SUR  -  MER. 

GRAND  HOTEL  CHRI8T0L  &  BRISTOL 


F'ir  St- class      Hotel. 

Best  Situation  in  the  Town.     Highly  recommended 

for  Families  and  Gentlemen. 

Carriage  in  Attendance  on  Arrival  of  all  Trains  and  Boats. 
F.  CHBISTOL,  Proprietor  and  Manager. 


BOURBOULE    LES    BAINS. 

6RAHD   HOTEL  DE  LUNIVERS. 

Open  from  the  16th  of  May  till  the  end  of  Oetoher. 

vyELL-EECOMMENDED  HOUSE     situated    near     the 
Etablissements.    The  Principal  Journals  and  Bourse  quotations 
every  evening  at  4  o'clock. 

ODOT,  Proprietor, 

8uc€e98or  of  DULIEOE. 


laas. 


MUBRArS  HANDBOOK  ADVEBTISBR. 


U 


BADEN-BADEN. 

h6tsl  de  la  oour  de  bads. 

Badischer  Hof. 

(Not  to  he  otrnfimnddi  wUh  the  Hdtel  de  la  VtUe  de  Bade^  opposite  the 

Railway  Station,) 

AFIBST-BATE  and  large  Establishment  near  the  Promenade  and 
th«  CoiiTersatfoii  House,  with  extensive  Oardeos,  Wann,  l^^ral*  and  other  Baths, 
enjoying k well-merited renyntatiofl forits great o(«iA>rt and  attenuoik.  It  is  patroDised  by 
the  most  distinguished  Families. 


Kanagrer,  Wr,  Fr.  ZIEd^LEB. 


I  li  ■  I  I  I 


p^-r 


BADEN-BADEN. 

CMfcA3Vr>     M^TEIL.     BELX.E  -  VtTlS. 

THIS  excellent  First-class  Hotel,  delighifdlly  situated  in  the  centre  of  a 
fine  Park  near  the  English  Churcji,  close  to  the  lawn  Tennis  grounds,  wUl  be  found 
a  most  agreeable  residence.    Esceptionol  poslti6n,  witu'  superb  view.    Beally  well-kept, 
and  Moderate  Charges.    Arrangements  made  for  a  longer  stay.    Well  recommended. 
RIOTTB,  Proprietor. 

BADEN  -  BADEN. 

h6tEL     STADT     BADEN. 

On  fto  righi-'hand  tide  and  nearest  the  Station, 

COBQff  JtNDiNG  a  delidoas  view  of  the  Old  Ot^Mte  and  high  rocks.    Known  for  its  Olean- 
lineae»  ttttelteiit  Obokiog,  good  Attendance,  and  fixed  Moderate  Caiatgea. 

E.  B0E88LEB,  Landlord. 


BAQN^RES   DE  BIGORRIE. 

Qrand  Hdtel  Bean-Sejonr. 

FlB8T-0liA88. 
The  mostoomfbrtable  and  the  best  situated. 


BADEN-BADEN. 

tftrBBATcrBAfniBpoK  fob 
iroBTfi^askAKt. 

Post  8vo.    10m. 
John  Murbat,  Albenr^krle  Street. 


BAGN^RES    DE    LUOHON.    PYRENEES. 

GRAND    HOTEL    RICHELIEU. 

iffotel  de&M,le  r^.de  SolUijnde,) 

200  Boom^  10  3aloiU9.    Splencud  view. 

LOtTIS  EStRABS,  Proprietor. 


BAVENO. 

GRAND    HOTEL    BAVEN6 

(Farmerly  VILLA  DURAZZO). 

PIRBT-GLASS  Hotel;  Sewly  Constructed,  with  every 
^  Modem  Comfort,  and  enjoying  an  exceptional  position,  facing  the 
Borromean  Islands.    Arrangements  lyiade  for- Families.. 

,     OPfiN  In  APRIL  1883. 

iO,  BOSSZ,  Fropirietor.: 

L&ltely  Qo-^^rop^ietor  oft^Hbiel  BeUe-me,  Bavend, 


12 


innffiAr&  handbook  Ai>vKirndeR. 


May, 


BAQNERE8  DE  LUCHON.  PYRENEES. 

H6tel  Bonnema^teon  et  de  Xj^ondres^ 

OppoMte  the  Springs. 
First-Glafls  HoteL    Beoommended  to  Families. 

HT2,.  VIDAL  Filiv  Fropxietar. 

BAVENO. 

ORAND    HOTEL    BELLE -VUE, 

TAEGE    First-olafifl  .  Hotel,    sijrrouuded    by    a     splendid 
~"^    Gkoden,  faoing  the  Borromean  Islee.    English  Servioe.    lift. 

No  Omnibus  requteed,  the  Garden  of  the  Hotel  hetag  oonneoted 

with  the  Pier,  j 

OPEN  ALL  TEE  YEAB. 

T.  PEDItETTI,  Proprietor. 

BELFAST.'      ' 

Jutt  Be-decorated  and  Enlarged.        Fint-Clasa.       Bes^  Siimwl^. 
Omnibuses  meet  all   Trains  and  Steamers. 

W.  J.  J17BY,  Proprietor. 
•   •    .     •  BIARBITZ. 

h6TEL    DES    PRINCES* 

ALABGB  and  beautiful  Hotel  wilih  a  fine  view  of  the  Sea.    This  Hotel 
will  be  fooDd  most  suitable  icft  EDglish;  Families  and  GsntlemtB.    BzfieUent  cooking. 
£xoe|»tibonAl  arrangements  can  be  made  for  pension.    English  spoken. 


spoi 

El.  00tT2AlN,  Proprietor. 


E. 


BERLI  N. 

$,  flCBnnOSL-PlLACS,  2; 

SnUATED  IN  XBS  WXSMr  AND  HOST  ISLEGANT  PAST  OF  THE  TOWK. 

Hau  to  tha  Ceatral  Statioa,  Friedrifih-straaaei*  ud  to  tba&irAl  Bdaoe^  Miueimia^  and 

Theatres. 

SINGLE  TraTellen  am)  large  Families  can  be  accommodated  with  entire  Suites  of  Apart- 
ments, opqfllting  or  sfteiold  Saloans*  a%  Bedrooms,  M,  all  fomisbfld  and  carpeted 
in  the  best  English  style.  Ffrst-rate  liable  d^dte,  Baths,  Eqtripages,  QvMes.  Approved 
Hydraulic  Lifts  for  Pa8$«n8ei:4  A^dTLnggage.  TbM^  aq4  (M<(l«Mim"«  MuMengtr  taken  m. 
Residence  of  Her  British  MsJesl^s  Messengers. 

B*  SXEBSIiIBTt  Proprietqr.  < 


BERLIN. 


1 


T  H  E     K  A  I  S  E  R  H  O  F. 

Wilhelmspflatz.  Zietenplatz. 


OiHE  Ittrikteetimd  most  bondiinoffious  First-Olass  Hotel  in  Berlin.    Situated 
^     in  an  elegant)  qni^  axid  m^giUficent  part  of  the  oity. 


leea.  Mtmiur's  handbook  ADTBRnsRK'  is 


BERLIN. 

HOTEL   DE   RUSSIE. 

FntST-OLABS,  Family  Hotel,  fkoing  the  Crown  Prince's 
Pakoe,  and  flttnated  in  the  finest  and  most  aristocratic 
part  of  the  titj.  Oan  be  confidently  recommended  to  English 
and  Ajnerican  Families  for  its  comfort  and  moderate  charges. 

C.  P.  KiTHRT,  Proprietor. 


BBBLIH. 

ST.  PETER8BUBG  HOTEL 

TJVSM^  DVr  LXipn  Sic 

CLOSE  \o  the  GeDtiial  SlatioA,  fVtedridi- 
stnCdBe.  Old  reputed  flrat-claqs  Hotel, 
ExQellent'  IVible  d  HMe  four  o'clock.  Near 
to  th»  iflnperUl  PalAce,  Unlvflnl^*  MnMQm, 
QraAd  Qpera,  lie.  .fVqp.  JuLipft  HBKDtLAsa. 


BORDEAUX. 

MXTBRAY'S  HANDBOOK 

FOB  FRANOB. 

Parti.    Poetevo.     1t.9d.    l^ewEdltioD. 
Retleed  to  dattt. 

JOHN  MURRAY.  Albemarle  Street. 


BOLOGNA. 

HOTEIi  D'EUBOPE.  10  VIA  INDEPENDENZA  10.  Highly 
recommended  to  Families  and  Single  Gentlemen  fur  its  central  situation  and  its 
comforts,  having  been  bnilt  expressly  for  a  Hotel,  witb  Bath  Boom,  Heating  Apparatus,  fto. 
100  Bedrooms  and  Salons,  Reading  Room,  Piano,  Smoking  Room.  Newspapers  of  ail 
countries.  Full  South.  Moderate  charges.  Pension.  Omnibus  to  all  trains.  The  four 
languages  are  spoken. 

E.  BAROQQI  and  Q.  QUATTRI,  Manasers  and  Proprietors. 

BONN.  ~~" 

GRAND  H6TEL  ROYAL. 

ON  the  Banks  of  the  Bhine.  European  repute.  200  Booms  and  Salons. 
Situation  without  equal,  fieu:ing  the  Rhine,  Seven  Mountains  and  Park.  Near  the 
Landing-place  and  Railway  Station.  Extensive  English  Gardens.  Reading  and  Smoking 
Rooms.  Ladies'  Salonn  Arrangements  on  the  most  moderate  terms  for  the  Winter 
Pension.    Warm  and  Gold  Baths  in  the  Hotel. 

THE  GOLDEN  "star  HOTEL. 

THIS  First-rate  and  unrivalled  Hotel,  patronised  by  the 
English  Royal  Family,  Nobility,  and  Gentry,  is  the 
nearest  Hotel  to  the  Railway  Station,  and  to  the  Landings 
places  of  the  Rhine  Steamers.  The  Proprietor,  Mr.  J. 
SOHMITZ,  begs  leave  to  recommend  his  Hotel  to  Tourists. 
The  Apartments  are  comfortably  famished  and  carpeted  in 
the  best  style,  and  the  charges  are  moderate.  Arrangements 
jGar  the.  Winter  may  be  made,  on  the  most  moderate  terms. 

BORDEAUX. 

h5TEL  DES  PEINCES  ET  DE  LA  PAIX. 

QTJEUUjJUE  and  PARIC,  Proprietors. 

.    ummti'tORs  OP  the  hotel  de  parib. 

First-dass  Hbttse.      Tdegraiph  €md  PoBi  Qfioes.      Money  Changers. 


u  HinaiT's  EJimxuxx  xtyvtSTma.  Mtin 

BOUM4qNS-eU9-fllER. 

FAHILT  SOTEL  AM  mASmm  .RGU^ 

67   ft   B9,   RtKB  Ua   UEIOBS.  *■ 

EtIitNU/iifl  1845.      Star  tht  Fort,      ■  Tern  tioafiiiiiMp.       IfoirtlU,  (Rarffi. 
"  R-opriator,  "L.  BOtTTOIU.B.       ' 

_,_,  'La  BoyRBbu'LE-LES- bains.      ■ 

GKAND  HOTEL  F:  BELLON. 

J.  DONIfllAITSt  FropriMor. 
Firtt-^Uut  EttabidhmenL     fboIuA  apob«n.     Opened  from  Ote  Pint  of  Maj/ 

HU  the  end  0/ Oetdber. 
ari.EHDIDLT  aiTTTATBP. 


h6TEL  DB   L'BUEOPB. 

Vtrtt-Oa**  OigUA  HotO.     Sntirriy  BmunaUd.     SiglUy  B«aomiMmd»d. 

LUBCHE-BAUIU  FroraiotDr. 
■  I  hotbiTbadb  ad  i^c  ztmicSl 


HOTEL  DB  BtraalB.  BERLIM. 


GBANB  HOTEL.    Boom*  ftom  3  franca.    Arrangetoent  for  a  loog, 
slar.     Magniflcent  DinlDB  KoQm,  Dranfng  Room,  Smnklne  Room,  ind  OalS, 
i  Room      (My  Bottl  w<M  a  lAft.     Hallway  and  Telegraph  Office  In  tba  SoM. 


L 


IMS.  .  lHnnU.T«  HANDBOOK  AiyTXBrnSBll  16 

H  6  T E  L     MB  N  G E  L  L  E 

(BX7B  BOYAIiE). 

npHIS  large  and  beantifai  First-OlasB  Hotel  is  ritoated  in  the  finest  and 
J-  most  heft^bj  pariiOf  Uta-Town,  near  to  the  Promenades  the  moet  freqi^Qted,  and  ia 
BQpplied  |i|ta  pyett  Aodenr  aiooom]|Mi04tlon  andl  «<««%%  "^f^  fl'^PHj^t  I  and  1,15, 
five  francs.  Restawant  k  la  carte,  m  at  fixed  fiilcea,  at  any  lioor.  Ezceuent'^*  Coisine  " 
«^C!hdoe lYines.     -       .:        ,j  ,-,  • »    .^    '     •  •      •  ■  ' 

Baths,  Smoking  Boom,,  Beaoizig  Boom,  Billiard  Boom. 
ArrangemenU  made  wUh   FamiHes  duHng  the  Winter  Seawn, 

■      ^  *  '        BRUSSEUS.' 

HOTEL  DE.  LA  POSTE. 

28,  RUE  ¥0^'J4^  ^OUFSi  NMR  THE  PWCJ£.  la  |A  MONNAIE. 

FAMILY  HOTEL  8PECIALLT  RECOMMENDED  TO  ENGLISH  TRA  TELLERS. 

OttilinmB  to  the  Hotel  lift  tlie  StBtiojE.        Ensrlish  n^Plceir.  * 

HYAOINTHE  TILMANS,  Proprtetor. 

-1    ■  ;  :       '      aRUSSELS.  :    >      ;  ' 

aRAND    HOTEL    GERNAY. 

Moderate  Chtargee,    Anden  Pr&prUfaire  de  tBdid  de  Pot^ai  h  Spa, 
This  Hotel  is  close  to  the  Railway  Station  for  Ostend,  Germany,  Holland,  Antwerp, 
'     Mid  i|^,'  fbrmkig  the  ^s^ner  o£ihe  Boulevards  Botanique  et  da  Nord. 

'         """  BRUSSELS, 

H6TEL    de    SUiiDE. 

FIRST-GLASS  HOTEL,  in  a  thoroughly  centiral  position  near  the  New  Boulevards. 
EXCELLENT-  TABLR   D'HOT^E,  CHOICE    WINES. 

VAN  OtrrSEM,  Proprietor;     '" 

J    ,    ?i  CANNES.-  -  , 

WINDSOR  -flOTEL 

THIS'  Fir8t-Qlas8  Taxmly  Hotel  is  beautifully  situated,  not 
too  fietr  from  the  Town  and  the  Sea,  of  which,  however,  it  enjoys  an 
extensive  view.  Baths.  Smoking  and  Billiard  Boom.  Large  and 
shelt^ed  garden. 

Most    Comfortable   Apartments   and    Careftil 

Attendance. 

ED.  SCHMID,  Prufprietor. 

~'  [        CANNES. 

Situated  rouie  d»  Ca/met. 

l^ULL  SOUTH,  with  every  advantage  of  a  sheltered  position,  away  from 
^     the  Sea,  and  near  to  St.  Panl's  English  Church.    Good  and  careful  attendance. 


*•••..»♦ 


AD.  VAN  OARKtlH,  Proprietress. 


16  MOKHArS  HAUBSOOK  ilDTKRTlSaH.  Mtiy; 


CAEN 


JiLJi 


HOTEL     a^  O'ANGLETERRE, 


Rue  St.  Jean,  Nos.  77,  70,  81. 

Situated  in  the  Centre  of  the  Town,    Kendezvons  of  the 

best  Society. 

100  Elegandy    Fwnmhed    and    Con^forttible  Bed  Boomt  and 

Sittit^  Boom$. 

BREAKFASTS   A    liA   CARTE. 

BIHHEE  AT  TABIE  ©'HdTE^  4  PE&HCSo 

SUITKS     OF     APARTMENTS     FOR     FAMILIKS. 
ENGLISH  AND   SPANISH   SPOKEN. 


L.  MANGEL,  Proprietor. 


CAIRO  (Egypt). 


FRIEDMANN'S 

HOTEL   DU    NIL. 

Situated  on  the  Moosky  (Frank  Qnarter)  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  .all  the  onriosities  of  the  Town. 

Cheap,    Clean,    Good   Cookery,    free   from    Dust. 

ALL  APARTMENTS  FAGIII8: 8(HJTH  ROUND  A  SPACIOUS  GARDEN. 

BATH  ROOMS,  LIBRARY,  SALOONS. 

ENGLISH  AND  FOBEIGN  NEWSFAPEBS  .TAKEN  IN, 
Omnibus  and  Dragdman  at  each  Train. 


.1 


IiBANDSR  SQHABFNAQEL,  Managing  Partner. 


p(V(RO,   EOYPT. 

OMENTAL   HOTE/L. 

THIS  First^OlwH  BotxA  is   sitaate  oB  the  &rand  Place 
of  the  LesbebtM  Giardbn,  In  IIm  oenb«  of  the  town.    Hear  the  Pott  uid 
TelcKmph  Office*,  and  the  Gnuid  Opera.     Contains  all  the  comforte  of 
the  best  Xhirop«^a  Hotela.     Large  and  amall  Aputmenta ;  reoonuticnll 
itself  to  tiaTePw»for  jta  gqod  Ouuine  and  esceltenoe  of  tt»  Mirieet 
PENSION  FBOU  10  TO  12  SHILLINGS  PBR  DAT, 

'    IHOLDDUro 
Mominff—Ca/i  au  lait.  Tea,  or  CHweoUUe.    Egg$,  CM  Meat,  Batter,  " 
and  Oonfitmtt, 
'  MiMOft-rBrtaifatt  i  la  t^rchette.         Dinn«r  at  7  o'cioek. 

OMNIBUS    AT    ALL    THE    TRAINS.' 
Xn4«rpr«t«rB  for  all  XAnVDagie*.' 

BEADING   BOOSE.      SHOEING    BOOM. 

kaWP^  anh  poBsiaif  ioiwsfafebs. 

MOT,  COLD,  AND  DOUCHE  BATHS. 
mnt^rtbnA  ■SRSira,  BCftnager. 

TH.  ZIGACA,  Proprietor. 


CAIRO  (Egypt). 

BQYAL    HQTEL. 

'BOULEVARD     E5BEKI±H:         ■       ' 


BXADHrO^  ABIOEIKa,  AKD  BIT.T.TARD   B001I& 
BATH8,  AND    HYDROPATHIC    DOUCHE. 
Fine  Oaiden  leading'  np  to  Uie  Hotel,    An  Omnllraa  to  meet  all  Trains. 
J.  ROMAND,  Proprietor. 


'O'  JUW4MW1.A   O    MJJL^.-y±/a\jnjM3k    AX/T  XiAAAOfiiA*  -ulAJ) 

CALLANDER 

HYDROPATHIC  ESTABLISHMENT, 

CALLANDER,  PERTHSHIRE. 

. .... '  ■  '■  ■  ■ — I — - 

rpHIS  Establiflhrneiit  ifi  sitnftted  in  one  of  the  moat  interesting  parts 
X  of  the  Highlands,  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Ben  Ledi,  the  far- 
famed  Tvonaachp,  and  Loch  Ea/triiie.  .  '<  < 

The  Table  d  Hote  is  amply  provided,  and  for  the  convenience  of  Visitors 
making  excuraiona,. Dinner  is  at  6.30  r.ic 

The  TuBKiSH,  Russian,  Sfbat,  and  other  Baths  are  of  the  most 
modern  aod  improved  description.  Th\&re  is  a  weli-teatihAeid  Billiard 
and  Smoeino  !koou. 

Salmoit  and  TEOxh  Fishing  ovet  4  miles  of  the  river  Teith  adjoining 
the  Estahliskmoal.  Boats  6n  Locd  Ybnitachisb.  TenniB  and  Croquet 
Greens. 

Carriages,  Waggonetjtes,  and  Drags  can  be  o^descd  at  the 

Establishment. 

Omnibus  to  and  from  every  train  at  Callander  Station. 
,.  Jjr^f  T^rm«,  FtQItpechfSy  Ac.f  address  The  Manager, 


CAN  NJE.S.  > 


Htet  BEAU  SITE  &  HSTJEI  DE 


.r    ■      <"T' 


BOTH  situated  at   the  West  End  of  OanneSi  in  the  midst 
of  a  most  splendid  Garden,  and  adjoining  Lord  Brongham's 
property ;  the  healthiest  part  of  the  Town. 

300  Bedrooms  and  Private  Sitting  Rooms. 

Be^ding^  SmoMng  and  BiUiard  Booms,  with  English  BilUard 

Tables,     Bath  Booms, 

LIFT  WITH  SAFETY  APPARATUS. 

LAWN     TENNIS     GROUND     CONSIDERED     THE     FINSST 

AND   LARGEST   IN   CANNES. 


AftBANGXiMSirTB    MABS. 


>  I 


GBOBGES   GOUGOLTZ,   Proprietor. 


HIIRIU.T-3  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISES. 


JO 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVSRTIflUB. 


Man 


COBLENTZ. 

OIAN7  HOTEL— h6tSIi  DU  aSANT. 

THE  best  situated  First-Glass  Hotel,  just  opposite  the  landin^-plaoe  of 
the   Ste4in4K)At8   and  Fortress  EhrcnbreitftteliL      Btiyilkstit  Ctdeilie   Atii  Cellar. 
Moderate  Gbfurgee.    Bednctltm  ftxr  « long  reeidenoe. 

Pbopbietobb,  EISfiNfifANN  Bbob. 


COLOfiNE- 

hqteL  biscB. 

FInt-ClAse  Botel  newW  refitted ;  near  Uxe 
Cathedral,  and  Ceutral  Sta:tioQ.  Omnihuses 
meet  every  Train.  Lvge  stock  of  ChoM 
Wines  for  Wholesale.    E^dtaoUc  Lift. 

V,  pa;  CaiUSTOFM,  Pr«pri«Ufr, 


^.    coLqoNe.^     • 

fiOTEL    PXJ   DOME. 

tagmmdy  Mtuated  ia  the  MBtreof  the  Ottjrt  nflw  tb4 
OMbednl  and  Ufa  Cwtaral  3«ilirav  BMkax»  ha« 
imd«rgone  inparbnt  improTmamts'  tbAt  'W^io  it 
Tery  comfortable.  Table  d'HOie  1  o'clock.  Oalii  &d 
Ikmi  ad  joining^  tto  BoteL '  BaoommenddA  to  tng-* 
Udi  TonrlstB.    TBrnv  If oderate.' 


COPENHAGEN. 

HOTEL   KONGEN   OF  DENMARK. 

THIS  First-OlasB  Hotel,  much  frequented  by  the  highest 
class  of  English  and  American  Traveliers,  affords  first-rate  accom- 
modation for  Families  and  Single  Gentlemen.  Splendid  situation,  close 
to  the  Bojal  Palace,  oyerlooking  the  King's  Square.  Excellent  Table 
d'Hdte.  Private  Dinners.  Best  attenduioe.  Blading  Boom.  Hot 
Baths,  Lift,  fhiglish,  French,  German,  and  American  Newspapers. 
All  Languages  spoken.    Very  Moderate  Charges. 

The  ciiy  Vienna  Coffee  Some  with  Restaurant  and  Confectionery, 

R.  KLUM,  Proprietor. 

CORFU. 

HdTEL    ST.    GEOBGEa 

THIS  FIRST-CLASS  HOTEL,  very  weU  situated  on  the  best  aide  of 
tiM  fiiplaaade,  dose  to  the  Royal  Paiaoe,  Is  fitted  ap  after  the  English  style,  allbfdtog 
first-rate  ^ooommodatiQii|  for  Fansiliee  asd  ^nfl»  Gei^lemev.  SzcelleiitrPexisieDv  and 
prices  vei^  o^ehite. '  A  large  addttiov  to  the  Hot«  jost  now^biah^  mak^aaj  it|  ope  of  the 
most  comrortabl^  of  thetDdntlnent,  vrith  splendid  Apajtmeats,  Obnversation  S&loon,  Reading 
Sa)##n  and  UUarv,  Smoking  And  Billiaitl  Rooms;  and  Bath  Roott;  Jfagniflosut  CattU^ 
and  Horses,  the  whole  imw»  neat,  and  elegant.  All  Langtiages  vg^Haau  LaflleS  tnvelling 
aAone  ^wlU  ifi^d  here  the  greatest  comfort  and  bedt  attendanoe.  ThefHoflel  >ls<  nader  the 
patronage  of  King  George  L,  the  Btnperor  of  Aturtria,  and  the  Grand  Dnte  of  Meeklenhtirgh. 

Madan^  V^«-  S.  P.  MA^0OHY  &  PllfS, ,  iPyioprietora. 

CO,WES,  Isle  of  Wight. 

DROYEE'S  MARINE  HOTEI,. 

PARADE. 

Oil  1        •         ■  '  •  . 

VIRST-GLABS    FAMILY    HOTSL. 

»  *  *  •  '  1  • 

The  Conafort  of  Visitoi^s  carefully  studied.  •  Board  on  very* 
L6w'  T^rrps  during  the  Winter  Molnths. 


1888.  UUmU.T'S  HANDBOOK  AOVERTISEB.  21 


COLOONE    ON    THE    RHINE. 

JOHAM  MARU  FARINA, 
tJE&EinJBER  DEM  JUUCffS  PLAT2 

(O^Melte  the  JiUlch's  FUkoe), 

PUBV1»T0B    TO    H.M.    QUBBN    VICTORIA; 

TO  H.  R.  a  THB  PBIVCB  OF  WALES; 

TO  H.  M^^nnjUJAV  Kl^Q^  OF  PRUSSIA;  THE  EMPEROR  OJP  RUSSIA 

.,    ....  THE  EMPEROR  OF  AUSTRIA; 

THE  KING  OP  DENMARK,  ETC.  ETO^ 


Of 

ONLt  aSNUINE  EAU  DE  COLOGNE, 

Which  oUained  ftie  only  Prize  MedaZ  avtarded  to  Eau  de  Cologne  at  the  Fctrii  JSahiMium 


rPHE  fnqttausf  of  miBtakes,  which  are  ■ometimes  aooidental^  but  for  the  most 
-^  part  the  resnlt  of  deoepti(m  praotiied  by  ixttenstod  IndividiiAla,  indaoee  me  to  reqneai 
the  attention  of  English  travellen  to  the  following  stat^ent :— 

The  fitvooBatife  nfrntatloa  whftb  my  Eaa  de  Ooloffie  baa  aoc[iilred,'elilce  Sa  feventlon  by 
my  ancestor  In  the  year  1709,  has  induced  maity  people  to  imiti^te  it ;  and  in  order  .to  be  able 
to  sell  tiieir  spartons  article  metre  easily,  and  imder  pretext  that  It  was  genuine,  they  pro* 
eiued  thanftetoneaa  firm  of  Carina,  by  entering  into  partnership  with  pfrsoos  of  my  nfme, 
which  Is  a  very  common  one  In  Italy. 

PtfBOBS  who  wish  to  porchase  tike  gemdm  emd  erii^inal  Bou  de  CMogne  oof^t  to  be  parti- 
CQlar  to  see  that  the  labels  and  the  bottles  have  not  only  my  name,  Jokemn  MaiHa  f^urinat 
but  also  the  additionil  words,  gegeniSbeTdem  Jmcih*t  Plate  (that  Is,  opposite  the  Jnlich' 
Place),  witbont  addition  of  any  number. 

TfayeHen  tlsitlng  OeloglM,  aad  intendhig  to  boy  my  genuine  article,  are  cautioned  agahist 
being  ^  astray  by  cabmen,  guides,  commissioners,  and  other  partiei^  who  offor  their  services 
to  them.  I  there&we  beg  to  state  that  my  mannfM^ure  and  shop  are  in  the  same  house, 
situated  oppotiU  the  Julich's  Place,  sod  nowhere  e^.  It  happens  too,  flnequently,  that  the 
said  persops  conduct, the  uninstructed  strangers  to  shops  of  one  of  the  fictitious  Aims,  where, 
notwithstandlDg  as^rtifpn  tn  the  contrary,  thiy  are  remunerated  with  nearlv  the  half  part  of 
the>pviee  pail  hf  th^  purehaier^  who,  of  eenne,  maet  pay  Indlrsetly  this  ifcmnnaraiioii  by  a 
high  price  and  a  bad  article. 

.^  Another  .l^nd.  of  Inipoeition  Is  practised  In  almost  every  hotel  in  Cologne,  where  waiters, 
commission's,'  &c  offer  to  strangers  Eau  de  Cologne,  pretending  that  it  11  the  genuine  oie, 
f!Ad  that  I  d^tfvei^  It  to  them  fbr  the  purpose  of  selling  it  for  my  account 

The  only'  oeVta)^  Way  to  get  bi  Cologne  my  genuine  arthde  is  to  buy  it  persoDaliy  at  my 
house.-  eppiHt^'^  ^tiUcik^  Fkue,  forming  the  corner  of  the  two  streekik  Unter  GoUsabmldt 
and  Oben  Marspforten,  No.  33,  and  havlag  in  the  front  aix  balCDnlBB,  of  wtaidi  Hm  three 
l|fW  pynawfijuid  pm,  Johe»m,Maarin  Farina,  Qegeniiber  dem  JtUich's  Plata. 

The  excellence  of  my  manufacture  has  been  put  beyond  all  doubt  \3f  the  Uacst  that  the 
Tnrara  nf'thi*  Gteeat-Exhibitiona  in  London,  1861  and.  1892,  awarded  to  me  the  Prise  Medal ; 
that  I  obtahied  honourable  mention  at  the  Great  Exhibition  in  Paris*  1865 ;  and  received 
the  only  ^riie  Medal  awarded  to  Eau  de  Cologne  at.  the  Paris  Exhibition  of  1867,  and  in 
Oporto  1866. 

GoLoaNB,  January,  1883.  JOHAKN  MARU  FAR£NA» 

GEGENUBER  DEM  JULICH'S  PLATZ. 

*^*  ME8SB&  J.  &   R.  M*Cbackbn,  88,  Queen  Street j  Cannon  Street,  E.G., 
af^  my  Sole  Agente  for  Oreat  MntaiiSk  and  Ireland, 


22 


MaRRArS  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISHR. 


May, 


CREUZNACH  (BAD). 
PRIVATE  HOTEL  BAUM. 

FIBST-OLASS  FamUy  Hotel,  best  utantecU   Groat  cleanlmess.    Com- 
fortable Baths.    Beautiful  Gkurden.  Ezoellent  Cooking,  Ohoioe  Wines. 
Pension  moderate  charges.    BeeommeDded. 
JEAJ  BAPTIgCT  BATOI,  ftepitotor. 

DAY08-PLATZ. 

HOTEL    BUOL. 

FIEST-CLASS  HOTEL,  unrivaUed  in  its  Situation,  and 
especially  patronized  by  English  and  American  Visitors. 

C.  BUOL,  Proprietor. 

"  Z  DAVOS- PLATZ. 

HOTEL   and    PENSION    BELVEDERE. 

LABG£  Fir8K31a«  H6tel  (open  the  whole  year),  partlcnlarly  recommended  to  English 
Travellera.  Beantifni  views,  close  to  the  Pine  Forests.  Lawn  Tennis  Qronnd  and 
Skating  Rink.  Splendid  gnlte  of  PabUc  Booms,  fuU-sized  English  BilUsrd  Table.  English 
Library.  Bank  Agency  in  the  Udtel.  English  Comforts  and  English  Sanitary  arrangements. 
English  Church  100  yards  disUnt.    Pension  for  a  Week's  stay. 

For  further  information  apply  to  F.  C.  OOESTEB!,  Propridvr. 

DIEPPE. 
H  ^  T  E  L      ItO^K'AL. 


'B^a/f^nQ  the  Beach,  dote  to  Ihe  BcUhing  EdablUhment  and  the  Parade, 

TT  IS  ONE  OF  THE  MOST  PLEASANTLY  SITUATED  HOTELS 
i-  IN  DIEPPE,  commanding  a  beautiful  and  extensive  View  of  the  Sea.  Families  and 
Gentlemen  vUtittg  Dieppe  win  find  at  this  Establishment  elegant  Large  and  Small  Apart- 
mtntsi  and  (be  beat  of  aooommodation,  at  very  reasonakde  prices.  Lurge  Reading  Boom, 
with  French  and  English  Newqtaperg.  The  Befreshments,  &c.,  are  of  the  best  quality.  In 
fact,  this  Hotel  ftally  bears  out  and  deserves  the  favourable  opinion  expressed  of  it  ta 
Murray's  and  other  Guide  Books. 

LABSONNEUX,  Proprietor. 

Table  SB6te  and  PritxUe  Dinners.  \*  Tkit  Hotel  U  open  att  the  Tear. 

DIJON. 

HOTEL  DE  LA   CLOCHE. 

Mr.  GOISSBT,  Proprietor. 

QUITE  near  the  Bailway  Station,  at  the  entrance  of  the 
Town.  Eirst-Class  House  of  old  reputation.  Enlarged  in  1870. 
Apf^rtm^nts  for  Families.  Carriages  for  drives.  Table  d*H6te  and 
Serviee  in  private.    Beading  Boom.    Smoking  Boom.    English  iq>Qken. 

Ezportation  of  Bnrg^ondy  Wines. 

The  new  OBAND  HdrXL  DX  LA  CLOCHE  will  be  opened  at  the  «ttd  of  1888. 

Hotel  Enlarged  and  entirely  Restored  and  netioly  Furnished, 


DOVER. 
ESPLANADE  HOTEL. 

FOR  Families,  Qentlemen,  and  Tourists. 
Pleasantly  situated  on  the  Marine 
Promenade,  and  near  the  Railway  Stations 
and  Steam-Pftckets.  Well-appointed  C^eneral 
CoflTee  Rooms.  W.  OESSFORD. 


DRESDEN. 
HOTSLi  DE  MOSOOU. 

THIS  HOTEL,  situated  m  the  very  quiet 
and  fashionable  English  quarter,  and  near  Am 
Theatres  and  Mnseams,  aflare  roonie  and  — ^~^i. 
fttnii  S  marks  upward*,  to  Travellen  destrovu  of 
making  a  comfortable  stay  in  Dresden.  Table  d'Hofia 
at  2  o'clock,  and  Dinners  from  1  to  0  o'clock.  Good 
attendance  and  moderate  diargea.  Advantageous 
anangaaMnts  offaved  to  fkmUias  wishing  to  nuuke  a 
longer  stay. 


■^■1 


.14SS.  MURRirS  HANDBOOK  ADVEDTISBR.  23 

DIJON. 

HdTBL    DU    jura: 

M.  LOUIS  MEBCIB&  Proprietor. 

THIS  Hotel  is  the  ^eare8t  to  the  Bailway  Station,  the  Gathe* 
dnl,  and  the  Public  Garden  Saloons,  Apartments  and  Rooms  for  Families. 
Table  d'Hdte.  Baths  to  all  the  floors.  Private  Carriages  for  hire  by  the 
bofor.  finish  Newspapers,  OnmibBS  to  earrf  passengers  to  and  from  each 
train.  English  spoken.  The  greatest  attention  is  paid  to  English  yisitors. 
Barean  de  Change  in  the  Hotel.  Considerably  enlarged  and  newly  famished, 
1875.    The  best  Buivimdy  Wines  diipped  at  wholesale  prices. 

DINARO,    ILLE    ET  VILAINE   (Brittany). 

GRAiSri)   HOTEL  DU  CASINO. 

THIS  Firstr^lass  Hotel  is  the  nearest  to  the  Casino  and 
Bathing  Estahlishment.  Splendid  View  of  the  Sea  from 
tiie  ApMrtnfents;  and  from  the  Terrace  adjoining  the  Oarden  of 
the  Hotel.  Private  Dining  Saloons  and  Smoking  Rooms. 
Table  d*Hdte  at  11  o'clock  a.m.  and  6  o'clock  p.m.  Terms 
ftbm  Ifi  to  15  francs  per  day.  Excellent  Oooking.  Choice 
Wines.    English  Newspapers.     Stabling. 

L.  BIARBOT^  Pboprietob.     BOUDIN  FILS,  SuGCfiaSEUfi. 

DRESDEN. 


VICTORIA^HOTEL. 

THIS  First-rate  Establishment,  situated  near  the  great  public 
Promenade^  and  fiye  minutes  ttom  the  Central  Station  for 
Pragi;ie»  Yiidnn*,  Berlin,  Mnnieh^  Frankfort,  Breslau,  combines 
comfort  with  elegance,  and  has  the  advantage  of  possessing  a 
spacious  and' beautiful  Gardien.. 

.     T^O  SUFEEIOB  TABLES  D'HCtE  DAILY. 

PBIVATS  DINNERS  AT  ANT  HOUR 

During  the  Wintery  Board  and  Lodging  at  very  moderate  rates. 

Mr.  Wbuh  has  an  extensive  Stock  of  the  best  BkenUhf 
BordeauoDy  Burgtmdy^  and  Spanieh  Winesy  and  will  be  most 
hapi^  to  0tea«ta  Orders  at  Wholesale  Prices. 


24  U0BBAJ9  HANDBOOK  AD^^RTIBGK.'  IMy, 


DRESDEN. 

HOTEL    BELLiEVWE. 

Sitnated  on  tlie  ibrer  Blbe,  facing  Aie  new'd'bera,  the  Gal« 
leiiai,  ihe  Qteen  YMilto,  Oathednd,  and  BraliVB  Terrace. 
Well-known  First-ClasB  Establishment,  with  ISO  ,£oouik. 
FamilieB  desirous  of  ^king  Apartments  for  thd  Winter  oan 
make  arrangements  at  very  moderate  prices. 

LOXXIS   I'SISTEL,  BCanager* 

DRESDEN.  ■     ■.  . ' 

WEBEB'S    HOTEL. 

ENGLISH  and  Avnerican  visitors  desiring  a  con^^Qriiable  resi- 
dence are  respeotfollj  invited  to  giye  this  Hot^la.trial. 
It  is  situated  in  a  delightful,  part,  of  ^e  citj^*  (»rfkrlooking  tbe 
Promenades,  G^ens^  and  GaQeries.  Hands<)i](ie  *Dining.t(ooiii. 
Heading  Boom  well  furnished .  with  American,  ^jrench,  .ikiid 
EfigUfiih  Newspapers.  During  the  Winter,  pen^iou  |tt  ver^r 
advantageous  terms.     Elevator  to  aU  Floors. 

BEBNH ABD  WEBEB,  Prapyietor . 

,   DRESDEN. 

GRAND  UNION  HdTEL. 

FlIEfil'^-OJ^AipS,  bQTEL,  /^alaronite^  )>k  ^n|;ljsh/and 
*'•  American  families,  situated' in  thd  nnest'  part  or  the 
town,  dose  to  the  English  and  American  churches.  Very 
f f^T^^urarU^  terans.  on  Feiosionu  '  >• 

1.  HffdirauUc   Elevaior.      Tdopkone* 

Riai^AUD  SBTD:^, 'Proprietor. 

ENGELBERQ,     SWlTZERLANDi 

KURHAUS  H6TEL  ET  PEmtOU  TITUS. 


THIS  J^mbr-OLASS  hotel  \u  the  heBt  sitnatioYi'  orUe  Valley, 
in  the  middle  of  an  extensiFe  goxden^  has  been.feocmtly  xap^ 
eiAat^ed  and  improved.  JS^6w  lofty  'Dinmg  Saloon  for  200  per^ns. 
Drawing  Boom.  Large  Beading  Koom,  with  English  and  American 
D^apajj^rs.    Billiadd  ood  SmokibgBoam.    Bath  in  thfe  Hotolv ' 

,  !      ;  ^9glUh  O^Qf$l  inviheCt^rden-  of. Hha^, Motel, 

'•..-'     :.    BD.. 0A«: Afillk 


i^aa.  laiBRjLrs  hanhdook  ADVBirrisBR.  25 


ENGCLBERQ. 

.'  TBB  VALLET  OF  ENGE^LBEBQ  (3M0  ft.  U|^)  wlti\.lte! 

kURHAUS   AND    h6tEL    SONNENBERG, 

THE  pcoperty  of  Mr.  H.  HUG.  Summdr  stay  unrivalled  by  its  grand 
Alpine  Kenety,  as  well  as  Jby  tbe  cantlve  efBosey  or<the  climate  against  Inng  and  chest 
diseases,  oonghs,  nervous  ailments,  Ace,  te:.  Clear  brscing  air,  equable  temperature.  Recom- 
meadsd  hf  the  Ughest  medical  authorities.  The  HOTEL  SONNENBERG  in  the  finest 
and  beattfaiest  sttoatlon  ftdng  the  TltUs  and  the  Glaciers  is  one  of  the  most  comfortable 
and  best  managed  hotels  in  SwitKrland.  Lawn  Tennis  Ground,  ibcoellent  and  central 
plaee  for  akeftdrtqg*  botanlslag,  and  the  most  variM  and  intereiitliig  exeuri^ons.  1^ 
ase«nt  or  ne  %t\b  is  beet  made  fK»n  here.  Shady  Woods.  Vapour  and  Sbbwer  Baths. 
WatersprlDg  6°  R. ;  200  Rooms;  Pension  firomtir.  a  day  upwards.  Because  of  its  so  sheltered 
situation  specially  adi^ted  f^r  a  etay  In  May  and  Ju4e.  Resident  EngH^h  Physician. 
English  Btvine  Service. 

FRANKFORT     ON     MAIN. 

P.   A.    TACCHI'8    8UCCESS0ES, 

9KMtj,    So.' 44. 

BOHEMIAN  FANCY  GLASS  AND  CRYSTAL  WAREHOUSE. 

C^kindeUenfof  iSm  and  Ocmdlei  in  Gkut  and  Bnut. 
OswespondBat  in  England,  Me.  LOUIS  HENL&,8.  Badge  How,  CaanenSt,  Lopdan,  B.a 

FRANKFORT    ON   THE    MAIN. 

Pension  Yorster.  Faiily  Boarding  Honse. 

HIGHLY    BEGOMMENDED. 

HEALTHT  AND  AOSEEABLE  SITTTATIOl). 

LINDENSTRASSE  17. 

FBEIBTJBGh  IN  BADEN. 

THIS  new  and  comfortaUe  House  is  in  the  most  beantifcil 
' ;  pitqc^^a-and  healthiest  part  of  the  Town,  near  the  Bailway  Station. 
Opposite  the  Pqst  and  Telegrkph  OAces.  Beoommended  fyr  its  eisoelleat 
Cooking,  good  attendance,  and  Modei^te  Charges. 

HOTEL  pension''  BELLEVUE. 

W^llb^kej^  BfltabHshment,  in  the  midst  of  a  lar|;e  well-shaded  Qarden. 

50  Bed  Rooms.    Pension  5  f .  a  day. 

^ ■  J.  SUTTEBLtN,  Proprietor. 

-  RICHMOND  FAMILY  HOTEL.' 

ON~^ke  border  of  the  Lake,  and  opposite  the  Jardin  des 
Alpes.  ,  Breakfast,  1  franc  26  centimes ;  Lnncheoi^s, 
2  francs  50'  centimes ;  Dinners,  8  francs.  Eooms  from 
2  franog.  Attendance  60  centimes.  Pension  from  7,  8,  and 
9  francs  per  day. 

B.  ABMLEDEB^  Proprietor. 


26 


MUBRArS  HANDBOOK  ADVESTISEB. 


May, 


;P^ENEVA, 

GRAND    HOTEL    NATIONAL. 

SOOBOOMflL    2  VJLSVATOTLB. 

Moat  agreeable  eltaation  for  a  longer  stay. 

FINEST  view  on  Mont-BLanc     ftanlenw.     Border  of  the  Lake.    Ooncetts.     Denoei. 
Hydropathic  treatmente.    Three  Baths  oa  every  floor.    Milk,  Whey,  and  Orape  Cure. 
Free  Omnibos  for  guests  through  the  town  every  quarter  of  an  hour. 


GENEVA. 

GRAND  HOTEL  BEAU  RIVAGE. 

THE  LARGEST  AND  BEST  IN  GENEVA. 

MAYER  ft  KUNZ.  ProprietorB, 

QENOA. 

GRAND  HOTEL  DE  G£nES. 

Messrs.  L.  BONEBA  AND  BBOTHilBS. 
PliAOX  OABIjO  FBUOS,  the  most  beautiful  situation  in  the  Olty. 

(FULL  SOUTH.) 

This  Hotel,  formerly  the  Palaaso  liarehese  Splnola,  was  newly  opened  and  eatixely 
rc^'fomidifid  about  two  years  ago.  Its  situation,  opposite  the  celebrated  Theatre  C^Ie 
Felice,  on  the  Piazsa  de  Ferrari,  the  healthiest  part  of  the  town,  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
English  Church,  the  Telegraph,  the  Post  Office,  the  principal  Public  Buildings,  and  near 
all  the  cnrlosiUes  in  tlie  town ;  free  from  the  noise  of  tne  Railway  and  the  Haibour.  Large 
and  small  Apartments.  Table  d'HAte.  Restaurant.  Reading  and  Smoking  Saloon.  Bath 
Rooms.    Omnibus  from  the  Hotel  meets  eveiy  Train.    Moderate  Charges. 


GENOA. 
HOTEL  LONDRES 

ST 

PENSION  ANOLAISE. 

The  Thearest  to  the  Central 
Station. 

First  Glass.     FuU  South. 
Moderate  Prices. 


NERVI. 

WINTER  BBKDEZVOUS, 
SHELTERED  FROM  THE  N., 

N.E.,  AND  N.W.  WINDS  BY 
MOUNTAINS. 

HOTEL 

AND 

PENSION  VICTORIA. 

GOOD,  WITS  LARGE  GARDEN. 


QMUNDEN,    AUSTRIA. 


FACING  the  Steamboat  Iaiidmg;-plaoe.  OQiiif(Artable  Flnt*  Class 
Hotel.  Higbly  recommended.  Mr.  BRACHER,  the  Proprietor,  has  been  in  England 
and  America,  and  knows  the  wants  of  English  and  American  Travellers.  Charges  mode- 
rate.   Omnibus  at  the  Station.    Baths  in  the  Hotel. 


^  GOTHA. 

HOTEL  DEUT80HEE  HOP. 

Proprietor,  L.  8TAEBL2B, 

First-rate  Hotel,  situated  dose  to  the 
Promenades  and  near  the  Railway  Station ; 
comUnes  comfort  with  elegance.  Baths  in 
the  Boose.    Carriages. 


QMUNDEN. 
SnrBBAT'S  HAKDBOOK. 

SOUTH    GERMANY  AND   AUSTRIA, 
TYROL,  HUNGARY,  Ao. 

Post  870.     lOS. 

John  Mubrat,  Albemarle  Street 


..•^w«.^.w^m 


■WW* 


BT^ 


liimw 


1W9.  HURRArS  RAMDBOOR  ADTKRTISeR.  T, 

GENEVA. 

HOTEL  OE  LA  METROPOLE. 

FACING  THE  BKGLISH   OARDBN. 


mfartable  ac^ 
tloons,  aa  wall  tfb 
;  eontiina  no  lets 
uuTenMUT  koow* 
1  QU>«r  hotels  oai 
U  thepKHneiiadGii, 
edereoftliaBoUl 
niug  oountrr,  W 
i6l«  at  6  o'clock. 
disbeB.  Oboiaeat 
IB  oao  be  obtaiiMd 
I5tb  of  June  tbe 
arista  who  engage 


L  the  oondnotor  of 
no  ii  EngliaL 
S,  IDuut^er. 


MDRBAT'S,  H^WBOOR  ABVaRTl^K., 


THE   GRAND   HOTEL, 

'  CHARm'G'CROSSjGBSGOK     " 


Apartmenlfl.     Pronoimud  b;  fell  ita 
-'?  Hotel  in  gigggow. 

W.  G.  DAVISBOir.  Huugar. 

'Boa  b«m  Hotel  to  "Ctalnmbfe'SteamaTniiObfen,  kc„  every  Momiiig, 

GRENOBLE. 

tHIB  spleadMIy-fdtilateij  FiiBt-OIasa'Ho^l,  Wiblch  ia-tba  himt  In  the 
Town,  and  enjoys  the  ireD-merlted  telvoai  at  Familiea  and  TcmxM^ 
bM  been  enlbrf^ed'and  Neirlf  Fnrniehed.  The  Aparbnenta,  Isigo  and 
autj}].  coirtilne  eleganoe  and  oomfort.  itadever^  attention  haabeeir^aid 
to'  nMbs  tMi  bae  «f  the  best  Frovinoial  Hotels.  Public  and  FrivKte 
IMvln^nonie ;  'Englis'b  and  Trenoh  Papere.  Tabled'HStoat  11  and  6: 
Private  DiimeTd  at  any  hoof.  Bicelleot  Oiliglne,  Maddrate'tniargoa. 
The  OUtnlbnses  of  the  Hotel  meet  all  TrtilnB. 

Ii.    T.IIIIjLAT,    FroprietoE. 

Fbtirf^uB  Ganiages  can  be  had  at  the  Hptel  for  EsonniotiH  to  Qu 
Grande  ObartreuBe,itJiiage,  and  afl  placoB  of  interest  amongat'  the  Altia 
of  Dauphin^.  !.^_.__ 

URIAGE-LES -BAINS'.: 

^GITEIu    ICBSTA.XJK1AJVT,    B«OPrNK3\. 

FonnKd  fu  18«6.  EngUA  VMtotB  «iU  And  erer;  oomfiHltiand  Iniary 
in-ttiii  V^nrt-OlMa  EstabUdnnent  Private  Boons  fbr  FunlUes,  BnwUaut 
Oairfne and  Wines.  Table  d'HUa,  11  aiid'6.  Cftrriages 'and  Honw  oan 
be  hsdiB  OaSiMciia  Snandont  and  Promenadei. 


1888.  MimRAT^  HAIifDBOOK  ADrBRTlSB^-  2^ 


GRENOBLE. 


} 


•1 


PLACE  aBENETTE. 

AFIB8T-0LASS  HOTEL  in  every  respect.  Patronised  by  English 
Families.  Ck>mfortable  Booms  and  good  Table.  Information  for  Alpinists  and 
Tourists.  Carriages  for  Excursions.  Knglish  Papers.  Omnibus  at  Station.  English 
spoken. BESSON,  Proprietor. 

7  HAMBURG.  " 

h6tEL  ST.  PETERSBURG. 

rvLD-RENOWN£D  FIBST-GLtASS  FAMILY  HOTEL,  situated  on  the  Alster  Bassin, 
\J  the  most  ftshlonable  quarter  of  the  town.  Superior  comfort  and  accommodation. 
Table  d'H6te  and  Bestaurant  &  la  carte,    (^target  Hoderate.   New  Safety  Lift.    TOeplume 

Gh.  BETTTEB,  Proprietor. 

.  HAMBURG. 

HOTEL    DE    L'EUROPE. 

OLD -RENOWNED  FIB8T-0LASS  HOUSE,  patronised  by  the 
Imperial  and  Royal  Families.  Delifi^tful  situation,  ovwloolting  the  Alster.  180 
elegantly  furnished  Booms  and  Apartments.  Bath,  Beading,  and  Smoking  Rooms.  Table 
d'Hdte.    Hydraulic  Lifts.    Special  atrangements  made  at  a  longer  stay, 

BRETTSCHNEIDjyR  Ahp  BAMDU,  Proprietor*. 

HARROGATE. 

"THE    GRAKBY." 

FIli^ST-OLASS  F^Uy  Hotel,  facing  the  Stn^. :.  Bvery.fMsoommodalooii. 
for,  Visitors  and  Toudsta.    Ganriages  to  Wells  and  Baths  e^ery  morning  free- of 
ohafge.    Qood  Stabling.    Carriages  oo  mre. 

'W,  H.  WUiiniBn  Proprietor. 


iAmJh 


HAVRE. 

<  r        i.'.i  t   li%^<CbiMie«-  <!es!tTe  hi  If' 

^5t  U,5    fi  ^    ^  A R 1  3,,  Ipfe,',^, .10^,^  >    , . 

Excliaa;)^,  Fier,.  ^&9*    Oionil^us  ^  a^ ,  C4rr&iff^\at  t^9^  \^^^ 

Table  d'Hote  and  Restaurant. . 

./    ,fe,NGI^ISH    ^I>OKEN,.  .;      . 
HAVRE* 

h6TBL   COKTIipjISrTAL. 

Quai  des  Etats  Unia   et  Boulevard    Franfois    I^^* 

Pacing  the  Sea,    ,    '  ,  . 

FIRST-CLASS  HOTBL^  beftutifully  situated ;  newly-built 
and  furnished,  with  every  modem  comfbrt;  LlM'ge  and  small 
Apartments.  Booms  from  3  francs.  TaMd  d^Hdie.  Bestauratit 
'*ija  Oftrtc).?  S^oon.  Smoking  Bootti.  Charges  moderate. 
English  spoken.    Open  all  the  yeat.  . 

lili!dN  SOUCBABD^  Proprietor. 


O      .J        1 


MOttRAT'S  HANDBOOK  ADVEtmSBR. 


16S3, 


MURRArS  HANDBOOK  ADVBRTISElt 


31 


^  HOMBURQ. 

HOTBL  BEXJiE  YXnC^Fint-Glass  Hotels  6i;oeedi]igl7  well  situated, 
oppMHe  the  Puk  of  the  EiinaaU  and  doee  to  the  Springe.  Familiee,  and  Single 
Gtollfmeny  will  And  this  Hotel  one  of  the  moek  oomfortabK  oombining  exeeHent  aooomiiio- 
dation  with  cleanliness  and  moderate  Ghargea.  Beet  French  and  English  floolring.  Ekoellent 
Wines.    Hare  and  Partridge  Shooting  firee. 

H.  SIjIJCNBEBGEB,  Proprietor. 

'  HOMBURG. 

ROYAL  VICTORIA  HOTEL.— Patrtmiaed  by  H.B.H.  the  Prince  of 
Wales  and  seTeral  other  Royal  Personages.  Highest  PosiUon.  Flrst-Class  Hotel, 
close  to  the  Springs  and  the  Knissal,  with  fine  view  of  the  Tamras  Monntalns.  Quiet 
Apartments.  Has  been  newly  enlarged  by  Three  separated  Villas.  At  the  early  and 
later  part  of  the  Season  arranftemfnts  are  made  on  terj  reaaonable  terms.  Best  Staj;  and 
Roebuck  Shooting,  as  well  as  Trent  Fishing,  free  tor  the  guests  of  the  Hotel. 
QXTSl?AVB  WBIQAND,  Proprietor. 

HOMBURQ.    * 

H6tBL  DBS  QUATEE  SAI80NS,  and  VILLA,  with  the  fiDest  views 
of  the  Taiuros,  kept  by  Mr.  W.  SGHLOTTERBECK.— This  first-rate  House  is 
exceedingly  w^ll  situated  near  the  Sources  and  the  Kursaal.  It  combines  every  comfort 
desirable  with  moderate  cbasfgeB,  Large  and  small  apartments.  It  has  a  beautlClal  Garden 
fw  the  use  of  Ylsitors.  Hare  and  Partridge  Shooting  at  the  free  disposal  of  Visitors. 
Arrangements  at  Moderate  Prices  at  the  early  and  later  part  of  the  Season. 

HYERES-LES-PALMiERS. 

GBAND  HOTEL  DES  ILES  D'OR. 

THIS  FIBST-CffiASS  HOTEL  is  situated  in  the  middle 
of  a  most  beautifol  Garden  and  near  the  new  English  Church. 
Lawn  Tennis  Ground.  Dining  and  Drawing  Booms  full  South,  oon- 
tainiog  a  Golleotlon  of  PictnreB  by  a  celebrated  French  artist. 

Smoking  Room,  Billiards,  and  Baths. 
Pmuion  from  10  francs  a  day  and  upwards, 

B.  WBBBB,  Proprietor. 

HY^RES    (VAR). 

GRAND   HOTEL   D'ORIENT. 

T1HI8  Hotel  is  situated  in  the  most  salubrious  and  shcdterad  nart  of 
Hy)(res,  and  is  the  Resort  of  the  iUte  of  Enf^lish  and  French  Society.    Drawing 
Boom  fhll  Sonth.    BUUatds. 


H^te«s,  andis  the  Resort  of  the  elite  of  En^^lish  and  French  Socie^. 

ENGLISH  NEWSPAPERS. 


HvfeRES  (VAR). 

eBANB  HOTEL  BES  HESP]BRIDE8 

AND  PENSION. 

ONE  of  the  most  comfortable  Hotels  in  the  South  of 
France.  English  House,  highly  recommended.  Situated  in  one 
of  the  healthiest  parts  of  Hy^ree.  First-class  accommodation.  Apart- 
ments, with  Boards  from  8  to  12  francs  per  day,  Wine  included. 
Drawing,  Beading,  and  Smoking  Boom.  Full  South.  Billiards,  Baths, 
long  Gfoden  with  Lawn  Tennis  Ground.    Omnibus  at  the  Station. 

MARTIN  vidaIj,  Proprietor-Manager. 


sa 


MDKBAT'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


M»( 


HY^RES  (VAfi). 

BEA.XJ 


./!{ 


SITUATED  in  the  new  and  most  select  quarter  of  the  Tcrtm*    Open,' 
high,  sheltaiad,  aod  fUl  South.    Excellent  Bed^RooniB,  dieerfol  jSalofns,  and  petfecft 
sanitary  arrangements.    Moderate  Charges.    Omnibos  at  the  Station. 

Ch.  G-AygBON,  Proprietor. 


"A  Mod«i  of  Swilto  BwrilmcwL"  t  ."     ■ 

TBE  ILFRAOOlf BE  HOTEL  is  on  tbe  Tetge  of  the  AUmitic,  in  its  ovn  Ittetmeaqoa  Qronnids  of  Itvfli 
Aaras,  idth  Tennis  Lawn,  kc  It  ootrtalns  280  Booms.  The  Charges  are  fixed  and  moderate,  and 
than  Is  a  TaUe  d'H6te  daily. .  St ery  infonnation  will  be  aitnded  by  the  ManaMr,  IlffiUxitnbe,  Defon. 
The  attraotions  of  Ufraoombe,  and  the  plaoas  of  interest  in  the  neightwnrlMod,  pdbt  to  it  as  the  natatM 
oentre  to  be  chosen  by  the  Tonrist  who  desires  to  see  with  comliort  all  tbe  beautiiss  <}f  Coast. and  Inland 
Soeneiy  wtaioh  North  i>eTon  al&wds.  There  is  also  easy  aooess  into  South  Deron  and  Oomwall.  Th(f 
means  ofoommnnleatlon  with  IlAraoombe  by  Bailread  ana  Steanfboat  are  moat  oomplete.  Toonst  Tiokeis 
to  Ilftanomho  Inr  Two  Months  are  issued  at  all  principal  Wtations.  There  is  attached  to  the  Hotel  one  of 
the  Lai988tSwinuBlafr  Baths  in  Aigland ;  also  Hoi  and  Cold  Sea  WMar  Private  ^Baths,  Douche,  Shower,  SS. 


JLFRACOMBE. 


[■ 


FAMILY  AND  COMMERCIAL  HOTEL. 

HAS  veoentljbeen  rebuilt  with  extra  Bed  Boom  aooommodatiOn  aiid 
Ladles'  Drawing  V^ovm,    Gommodkm^  Ooffee  Soom.    BandMoie  Cemmerda]  Boom 
and  Good  Stook  Room.    BtiyaidB. 

.  OmiubuB  m^ts  every  TraixL  x 

TAMtFF  ON  Ap^liGATlOJSf.      SPECIAL  TERMS  FOB  BOAnDlUfd 

CHAS.  E.  CLEMOWi  Proprietor.  - 


'  ^  INNSBRUCK. 

HOTEL  DB  L'EUBOPE. 

MB.  J.  BKINHA]tV.-tA '  new  Fint-Olaas  Hotel, 
situated  facLnc  sfkodld  valley  of  the  Inn, 
opposite  Station.  •■ySBnent  TaMe  d'Hbte'  and 
pnvate  Dinners.  Amaumneats  at  «e(y.xe«nnaUe 
prices.  WeU-fnmibMd  Ap£teieiitl.  Kncrlish 
Newspapers.  Splendid  dtuMiont  asanmsiHng 
YlewWMownia^.'  IngUiispolwa; 


INN3BRUCK.aYR0U. 

H8TEL  60LDENE  SONNC. 


p.  HORAJDTHEB,  Proprietor, 


INT€ALACKEN. 

:  J..  (SkRO.SiSMANN,/..    ; 

SoyilpMr  in  Wpodiland  Mailttfaottlr^r;of  b^^'F 

Wood  Models  and  Om^jnexits.   ■  '      ^  ' 
Ca/iFwA  -emd  Ifdaid  Furniture  Mcmuftxctured  to  amy  Desngn^ 

AT     INTX:tU.ACKBN. 

HtS"  WJSftmOVSB  to  flitaatea  between  tbe  Belvedere  Hotel  ttid  9(^i^^<<|>^pV^%^ 
.  bt  k«e|tfi.tba>*Iaxge8t  and  btat  assortment  of  l^  abo^  objects  to  be  lotuidu  ImiM 
land.    He  undertakes  to  forward  Oooda  to  l^glwyl  and  elwwhere. 

Correspondents  in  England,  MeBsrs.  J.  ft  B,  MoCftAipsjarir  88,  Qaeen  Street,  Caonoii 
Street,  E.G.,  London. 


-^T- 


T 


INTERLAKEN. 

SCHWEIZBRHOF- HOTEL  SUISSE. 

J,  ^  E.  STB17BIN  ife  WIBTiH,  Fsoprietora. 

THIS  Fir8t-€i«eB  Family  Hotel  •of  old  reputation  is  bitoated  fn'  thb  bei^ 
position  ^  tbe  HSb^Tr^  i^^v  the  jKlirspMtl  <|hiidttQh    Every  modem  comfort. 


1^83.  .  MUBRArS  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISEll.  08 


INTERLAKEN. 

GRAND  HOTEL  VICTORIA. 


■  *■» 


Magnificent  First-class  Family  Hotel;  the  best  i 
situated  at  Interlaken. 

400  BEDS. 

E  LEVATOR. 

•  <  « 

Special  arraogsments  made  for  a  stay  of  some  time. 
ter>.  RIJCHTI,  Proprietor. 


GRAND  HOTEL  ET  PENSION 


•       .'.■..      . 


■♦«»- 


Situated  in  the  Centre  of  the  Principal  Promenade. 

i250  BEDS. 

E  L,  E  VATOR. 

Pension. '  from  frs.  8- 


34  MURRAY'S  HAIiI>BOOK  ADVEBinSSR.  Hay, 


INTERLAKEN. 


I  i 


F.  SEILER-STEBGHI,  Proprietor. 

T^HIS  Establifihrnent,  with  ^^two.  Branch  Hoose^,  is  situated 

'^  in  the  centre  of  the  Hdheweg,  and  enjoys  a  splendid  yiew  of  the 
Jungfrau  and  the  entire  range  of  the  Alpi^  It  Ke^ommends  itself  for  its 
delightful  position,  as  well  as  for  its  comfortable  accommodation. 

TABLE  D'H6tE  AT  2  AND  6.30  O'CLOCK. 

D/JWMJR,^  i   lA    CARTE. 

CARRIAGES,  GUIDES,  AND  koRSES  FOR 
-MOUISTAIN  EXCURSIONS. 

OMNipUS  WAITING  AT  AUL.THE  SJfTJONS. 

KILLARNEY. 

TttE  AoYAitrcToWA  HO^itii, 

F^tnmlied  bj  H.B. V.  t^  t^}$^  t>F  WAliW  f  ^fLlf^  ifclNOB  ABTHUB, 
Mul  "bf  the  Eoyal  Families  of  fSrance  am  Belgium,  Ac. 

THIS  HOTEL  is  situated  oo  the  Lower  liake,  close  to  the  water's  edge,  within 
■'-  ten  minntes'  <!iive  of  the  Hallway  Station,  and  a  short  distanoe  from  the  for-£Bmed  Gap  of 
Danloe.  It  is  lighted  with  gas  made  on  the  premises;  and  is  the  Largest  Hotel  hi  the 
distinct.  A  magnt^oent  Ooffee-room.  a  pnbite  Drawivg-itkom  tor  Uaim  M  fmaX^«»' 
Btinatd  and  SmokiHg-iroomb;;' and  several  suiies  of  ntvate  Aputtneuts  inAig  Ihte  Lbke, 
have  been  recently  added. 

TABLE    D'HOT^   DURIJfG   THE    SEASON. 

Car$y  Ccmriage8y  Bo<U9,  Ponies,  and  Omies  at  fixed  moderate  ehargee. 

Drivers,  Boatmen,  and  Guides  are  paid  by  the  Proprietor,  and  are  not  allowed  to  solicit 

gratultiesu    The  ^oraL  Wasqfa^i  ^d  torwep  attfnd  the  Trains. 

THERE   IS  A    POSTAL  TELEGRAPH   OFFICE  IN   THE   HOUSE. 

Boardhig  Termi  from  Oetob«r  to  June,  inolnilvo. 

It  is  neceesary  to  in-form  Tonrbts  thM  the  Railway  0>mpany,  Ptx>pHetor8  of  the  Railway 
Hotel  in  the  Town,  seiid  upon  the  platform,  at  Toutertfor  their  BoUL^  the  Porters,  Oar-drivers, 
Boatmen,  and  Guides  in  their  employment,  and  exclude  the  servants  of  the  Hotels  on  the 
Lake,  who  will/howeVef^  fwTo^f  in  ^4ti|g'aVthe  Station-door. 

JOHN  O'lillABY,  Proprtf tor.  | 


}fi»  MUBiUnrS  H^DBOOK  ADYWmSSBL.  » 


KARLajRUHE.  ^    ,     , 

'  HOTEt    GERlMANiA. 

CJITj^ATlSD  a  few  miniitee  ttom  ihi  tUif way  Station,  on  tlto  pabllc  Qardedfl.  T&ift 
n  ,Fint-CU68  Hotel  is  farnished  witheverjf  modern  oomfort.  100  Booms  mtd  Suites  «l 
Ap^lnents.  Bed  and.  attendance  from  2  Matfka.  The  whole  of  the  hoaM  heated  •»  aa  to 
enrare  Oomfort  to  Winter  Visitorp,  for  whoinulaofipedal  AmuigeiBenli  are  made.  Baths. 
Lift    Omnibuses  at  the  Station.  iJOSaV    I^WWi*.   Vroprt^tOr. 

KI88INQEN  (BATHS)  GERMANY.   " 

njH&IS  wel^HawiiL  ^iicsi-cIaBS  Soase,  with  100  Beardom4 
^:'^i80l(fliiltellg•ii9Q(nl8,  89^:20  Balconies;  all  the  rooms  have  an  op^n 
▼tew, Borrcmndedbyvbeanttfal  la|g6gfU!4eia. 

*•••'''   ■■     •  MboeRAW  df^ARQEi .       .,.■,:„■, 

'       ^  ROBERT  8K?HMIT^j  Proprieter. 


>«4- 


ROiAL   CtrftHAt^^   HOTEL.' 

1:d[EGJjST  and  beslj situated.  First-OIass  Ho^l  in  "town. 
I  ij&Op^^  Booms  .^t)i  80  biWiig'Sooyis,^^  witiiiiiftiM 
oppn  yiew..  rension  in  t^e  e^]j7  and  latdi'  pO^  of  f^i  ^oasoip. 
The  oidy  Hotel  with  Mineral  Ejath  in  the  House.  ' 

F.  JOS.  MtTLIiSB,  Manager. 


^  ■  ' 


xHxirj.  HE  MS&I£y 

•    »••;.      <,■  .  ■     .  ■ .    ■      '    '  ■■■■ 

Xhe  oldest  egiabliahed  First^etoM  Sotel  in  Kisatngen^  cppoaite  the 

i^pnngs-ttnd  tJte.I^tfrgartenT  --  —- 

.'•lii^iai  tp'bkestiSkiiita^improVS^j^^ 

M.  PANIZZA;  Proprietor. 

.i|ii|ii      li    i     I    II  I.I    I      II.      'II    i  >      '■!  I      I  ' ')    B'  iilVmi      < 

jKiaSINOEN,  .•     I       .,:     I     /■ 

;      hOtEL    FANGLBTBRIIE. 

rjrlHlS  !^Bt-01afi9  Hotel  is  situated  thif^e  minnt^^  frdo;i.the,9pppf8  and, , 

JL     the  Kursarteiu    Kx^lW  Taple^d^^.    Pension  , from -^r-Maiw  eadi  Person. 
Omnibus  at  eve^'TSfti-  .  '  '  o  I    i;^.  r 

D  2 


n 


UXmKKTS  HAKNOOK  ADViniTESSR. 


M«f» 


KI8SINQEN. 
J  KAI8EBHOF. 

(CMie»miHOtEL  KAItlB). 
T7Uit8T-0{«Afi8  HOTtL  of  «U  rapatatlon,  aewly 
17  lUitfed.  The  ne*rwt  to  tha  Spriiifs  $x>A  the 
mihR  ittimtod  In  the  mU^le  of  vie  Onrgarieii 
TiblB  d'Hdte  Mid*  OiMta  ii  |Mrt.  Peorion  in  the 
•'•rly  And  thm  later  put  «(  the  Beeaon.  Bnflfah 
w  c  aud  water.  a|>|>U*aoas      , 

WiUiTirBE,  Pnojrletor, 


LAUSANNE. 
OftAHB  HOTU  PX  BICEEXOHT. 

FINKST  wd  best  sitoaied  quiet  Firat-GUas 
Hotel   of  LauBAnne.    Amongst  lapg^ 
gardens.    In  an  exceedingly  beaatiful  and 
ealthy   position.    BigUly    reoommended. 
Moderate  Charges.    Pension. 

CaiTTJBBrWOXiBOIiD. 


LAUBANNE.     . 

^       HOTEL   GIBBON. 

tj1lbl9l^-CiXiA^S  ]^otel,  situated  in  the  ^nest  part  of  the  town,  and  m^ 
I;  iiguy  teoommended.  fiplendM  ttew  of  (he  Lake.  LargATernkoe  and  C^ardei. 
l^tQsion  daring  Winter.  gMILK  BITttB^  PwpritOT.' 


I  * 


LAU8ANNE. 

h6tel  pension  victoria. 

BEAUTIFUL  SITUAT^ON^  large  garden.     Most  excellent 
house  and  reasonable  fenns.  XjS.  PESPLAND,  Proprietor. 


■»«^  to  yii  I  II  tmn  I  > 


i^— ^ 


■M^ 


LE  MANS. 

GhHAlsrD      HOTEHi. 

FORMERLY  HOTEL  DIOT  et  de  la  BOULB  d'OB.     JMaenificent 
siiia^ipn.    |D,  B|ie  Duma^-   CoiifortaMe  Ifedroo^s  aid  S1tcin|-r0om«  fuf  f  amiUes 
andJKo|rft|.  JBaV>db,t3|ths.    ipeoUlO^uiiitU  t«thadUU(to.    £iH(isli  apoien!   ' 

J.  CHAVIIB,  Proprietor. 


•''  ■     '     '      LffeQE. 
HiOTtLl    DE    SUEDC 

^         ^CQfiatr*  StMT^* 
nmK  BEST  HOTEL.    Gfreat  Cpmfort. 
-*-     In  the  Centre  6t  the  towifi.     Boott, 
with  Light,  3i  francs. 

T4W»  Miftt*  3i-.friuifc& 


I 


LOCH  LOMOND. 

f  ABBET  BOTEL 

IS  the  most  commodious  on  the 
Lake.     Parties  Bj«d4d  on  the  moot 
Moderate  Terms. 

A.  H.  MACPHIB80H,  Proprietor. 


(Switnrland)  L-\^WA%niHV  (Switzerland) 

'  Terminos  of  St.  Uothard  Railway  and  lake  steamers.  Be«t  intermediate  stopBing  place  on  the 
lUUan  Lalte  i^th'toda^Clri^  «ui9lions  and  walfttin  the  rAtySJKJMMnJfTeTnBcti. 

GRAND  HOTEL  LOCAKNO. 

Masnifl<»nt  Establishment,  one  of  the  finest  in  Switserlapd.  Two  Hundred  Booms. 
Pepfeloiifirum  Uftaacskinstadbk  Boo^  ikigliikatuitaitv. Baths.  BttUuda  Large Oar«Hu 
Open  all  the  year.         .  O.  SJBTOHAB  A  Oo. 


LONDON. 


■■    11 


PHOTOS  ^PRESENTS 


LETO. 


ALABGffi  €^eeti(m  of  Views  of  the  United  Kingdom, 
Franoe,  It^,  Spain  and  Portugal,  IfTorway,  Switzerland,  Egypt^ 
Palestine^  Ih^  Uillled^  SCslest  Bi%lish  Gathedrals,  Abbeys  and  Castles, 
from  Is. 'each,  any  dtiantity  sent,  on  approval,' to  double  amount  of  oa^ 
sent.    Listii  on  i^oobl  of  stamped  addressed  envelope  to  \ 

i  LETTS,    SON,   &  CO.,    LIMITED, 

83,  g3W0^:WTTiT«AiMI  STBBET,  IiONDON  BRIDGE,  E.C. 


■^"■W 


■«p 


mmmtmmmim' 


198&  M(Ht]UT9  HANDBOOK  tanrWBTUKR  37 


LOIVDON. 

LAW  tFFP  ASSURANCE  SOCIETY, 

FLEET  STREET,    LONDOW. 

.        .  JST^BWSHED  1823.  .  ..  ,        *    - 


TRUSTEES. 

Tha  Bl|^t  Hononmble  lUvoar  Caupbbll. 

The  Right  Honourable  Visoodnt  Obambbook.  .    / 

The  Honourable  Mil  Jusxiqb  Mahistt. 
•  The  Honourable  Mr.  Jvsttck  PsABBair. 

-  The  fionoBFable  Alf»r]>  R.  Gay Hownt  Ha«dv. 
WixjUAX  Fbxdbbick  Hioqiks,  Esq. 
Emrapo  BoBsn  Tpbvb^,  Oiq. 

X>IRECTOSa 

Edwabd  Bailkt.  Eiq.,  Bemeis  Street,  W. 

Fbavcis  Thob.  BiitCHAic.  Eeq.,  Parliament  Street. 

The  Honourable  Hamtburoii  GH  CaUvbbU,  Vanl^utttB^Gardens. 

JoBN  Clbbx.  EiMi.)  Q.C.»  King's  Bench  Walk,  Temple. 

Frbdbbick  Geobok  DAViDaoK,  Ksq.,  a  Tating  Master  of  the  Supreme  Oourt, 

JoHK  Dbbdeb,  E6q.,  Inner  Temple. 

RiCHASD  pu  Canil  £aq.,  Grygr's  Inn  Square. 

Wkltam  Jambs  fabbbb,  Bsq.,  Llnoobi^s  Inn  Ffelds. 

HssaT  Rat  Fbbbbkibld,  Ciq.»  Bank  BfdkUqgB. 

Hbnbt  J.  L.  Gbaham,  Em.,  a  Master  in  Lunai^. 

<rt)e  Hooourable  Alibep  b.  GATqoBini  Habd^,  Ten^jpAt'    '  j 

Sir  PAltBBk  HsBSCHBLL,  Q.C.»  M.P.,  Seyr  Court,  Carey  Sire  %. 

Wy.  FBBDfCRipK  HiGanrs,  Xsq.,  Cbealir  Plaoe,  Belgrave  Sqi|«R^ 

Sir  Henbt  T.  Holland.  Bart.,  M,P/ 

Jon  JAVBtf'jToaKsoii,  Esq.,  Q.C.,  King's  Bench  Walk,  Temple. 

William  Rolls  Malooui,  E«q^,  Hercfqn)  Ganlens,  Park  liine. 

RiCHABD  Nicholson,  Esq.,  Spring  Gardens. 

Chablbs  Manlbt  Smith,  Esq.,  a  Master  of  the  Supreme  Court. 

John  Swirr,  Esq,,  Great  CnnAerland  Place. 

John  Mabmadukb  Teesdalb,  Esq.,  Fnderick's  Plaoe,  Old  Jewry. 

Edwabd  Tompson,  Esq.,  Stone  Buildings,  Lincoln's  Inn.  \ 

Abnolo  William  Writb,  liisq..  Great  Marlboron^th  Street. 

Chablbs  Norbis  Wilde,  Esq.,  College  Hill,  Cannon  Street. 

Basil  Thomas  Woodd,  Esq.,  QsafBgham  Hall,  YorksUre.  /  ^^Okv     w 

itfMs^b  tlitflDlffCimbar,  1882  .  .  .'  '.    14P,439,'^6 

AmoomtpaidinClaims  to  31st  Dcoember,    1882     ^      13,419,050 
Total  Amount  of  Bonuses  hitherto  allotted  6,198,901 

T^  Expenses  of  Management  are  aibont  4f  per  e^t.  ef  |he  bi^eiDfli 

FpK^^  «tre  fiittiM'tinder  tt»  terms  of  Uie  **  Mamed  Wetien'b  I^Foptoty 
Aet;  1882,"  fox  tte  bevefit  of  the  Wifb  and  Children  of  the  A^iSTured. 
'  Ijeana  are  |;ra«ted  on  seonritj  of  Life  Interests  and  BeversioiiB  in  con- 
nection viith  Policies  of  Assurance,  as  well  as  on  the  other  ordinary 
securities;  also  on  unencumberad  PoUoies  of  the  Society,,  nearly  to  the 
extent  of  their  surrender  value. 

Claims  are  paid  at  the  expiration  of  one  month  after  the  ite^uisiie 
evidence  of  death,  upon  aatisfitototy  proof  of  title  being'  fiomiAbed  m  the 
meantime. 

Commission  is  allowed  to  Solicitors,  and  others,  on  Policies  introduced 
by  them.         » 

Prospectus  and  Form  of  Proposal  will  be  sent  on  application  to  the 
Actuary. 

I. ■    mil.  11       ■ 

1883. 


96  MUBRirv  HMniBOOK;  <Mmss!mmL:  nsy; 


tliOVDHMBT* 


qww  AgSljategt  ^5s.yj» J 


.Yi 

ITore  than  One  ^m«^  ai«<2  l^(/i^  Tk»»$tm^  Vdjm^Qjijke Best  Boohs  of 
the  'rati  and  Present  Seasons  are  in  thrctdaiion  at  I 


MUEME'S  SELECT  LIBRARY. 

ThA  OoUeotion,  oomprisiDgMd}  41116  Qiqpf  Hodem  Works  of  every  shade 
of  opinion  on  all  subjects  of  general  inte>est;tez!oeBdiyiONE  MILLION 
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1 


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some  preparation  of  Cocoa.'*— i>r.  BdssaW. 

...        "...         "  •  .  ,        .  •   ".       "      ■    ••' 

<^B1ndfilftjcpi2i»y  and-^i^U niiiD^ 
.  r.F^  9pf^^i  ^?^  y^P^^?^  a  P9ii;^pn^c^  i^.piljr  pigr^dfeijits 

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1..  ,•         .■■■■■.,    :» L-j : L!__ l_i   J      .  .       .'-      ; 

16  Prize  Medals  awarded  to  I.  S.  FRY  &  Sons,  Bristol  &  london. 


i^aiMMitlHMHArfMMai 


l> 


1889.  mmRATS  HANDBOOK  AimtBTISER.  39 

LOMDON. 
THE 

GRAND  HOTEL, 

TRAFALOAB   SQUARE, 
LONDON. 

Hth  Magnificent  Hotel  oecttpiea  the  Finest  Site  in  the 

O'ENTR'E    OF   THS  METIlOPOLISy 

And  combines  the  Xlegance  and  Luxury  of  the 
most  important  and  attractive  Hotels  in  Europe  and 
America,  with  the  Repose  and  Domestic  domfort 
vhioh  are  essentially  Unglish.  .1 


'J 


THE  RBOENT  EXTENSIONS  "OF  ^THe'  BUILDING 

'  BAV^  ADDED  TO 

THE  GRAND  HOTEL ' 


4.  4* 


UPWARDS  OF  A  HUNDRED  BEp  AND 

SITTING  ROOMS. 

Foii  Apartment),  addrett  THE  SGCBETABY. 

— — — — ^^  <«  P ■       >       ■  ^— — M^— ■— ^— 

(He  itf  th4  SighU  and  mi$  of  the  <JomforU  of  lAtt^cUm^ 

THE 

HOLBOIIN  fiESTAURAUT, 

,  ;/  2ip,  HIGH  HOLBORN.,      ,;„   .  ,,, 

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48  MOBBArS  HANDBOOK- iJ»VnriBI!&:  Ihy, 


LUOERNC. 


wmmmi   immsm 


HAtJSBB  BEOTHBRS,  ^roprihtobb. 


BEST   SITUATION    ON   THE  ^UAX-! 

■  ^  1 

t 

With  splendid  View  of  the  Oelebrated  Panorama  of  the 
.    LAKE  Am)  MOUNTAINS. 

~  ;   LUCERNE. 

GRAND    hOtEL     NATIONAL. 

BSaSSSEB  BRCXTHSBfii  and  CTB^  .Proyftotowu 


■  ^'  ■   *  ^  ■  !■ 


npHIS   krge  and  splendid  HOTEL  ia  oi^e  of   ibe   i^mM 

-*-     comfortable  in  Eiurope.    Situated  in  front  of  the  Lake,  with  the 
finest  Views.    Every  attention  paid  to  Tourists. 

A   LIFT    FOB    THE    ifSK    OF   VISITORS. 

—  —  --  -  '  -,-— ■ — — ^--j — ' —  '  ■  —^ ...ii.    ■   .--  ■    ^ 

LUCERNE. 

SWAN  HOTEL. 

TBI8<  faotfEL,  fn^he  very  b&t  sitimtidn,  enjoys  a  high  bharsM^ei. 
•Mr.  HiKFGIil,  tins  Peopristor,  has  'imde  InMbe  Uteor  years  a  grieai  nmiji'ittprovJ- 
meats,  and  does  his  utmost  to  offer  to  his  Visitors  a  con^fortable  home. ,  4a  ^l^^t  new 
Ladies'  Drawing  Room,*be6ides  a  Reading  Hoom  and  Smoking'Room.  l.C9ld«  mino,  a^d, 
dfaower  Baths. 

LYONS. 

GEAND  HOTEL  DE  LYON. 

PLACE  DJS  LA  BOVBBK 

FIRST-CLASS     HOTEL. 

ilMLoclex-a.'te   Oliajr^es.  I 


mritm 


1968. 


ifDRRA'TS  nAKDBOOK  At)Ymm«m. 


43 


LYNTI 


Taw..  NORTH   «>ftVON. 

ROlTAXi,  CASTLE    FAMILY    HOTEL. 

Paircnit^  fy  ^.fi.H  me  ^ndk  of  t^cd^  und  other  Mfti>eri<>f  A«  i?o^a|  Family. 

.|      .  Th«, Finest  Sea  and  Land  Views  in  the  Worid.  . 

fTmlB  )BaML,  standing  in  its  own  omAinanUl  gronnds  o^  more  than  12  acres.  600  feet  abore  the  lerel  of  thi 
JL     lea,  oTwIodkiafir  the  Briitol  Gbaanel,  eomnands  nnlnfermpted  vi«in  of  the  VaUeje  of  theJBaet  ana 
Lvim,  Lyan  Gllfl^'BBaMtoa  and  QmntM>iiiy  HT' 
»Ui  Ouiat.  and  |ha  fuwCuned  VaUey  of  Bockh 


Lvim, Lyan Gllfl^BBaMtoa  and  QmntM>iiiy  Hflli,  the Tbn.  the  TUIage  of  LjniMmth,  the  9onimai, 
the  Weuh  Ooaat.  and  |ha  fuwCuned  Valley  of  Bocki.  Having  been  under  the  nanagenifWit  of  the  praaent 
proorletor  nearly  00  yean,  the  Hotel  has  been  recently  and  eitendTely  enlarged  to  meet  the  requirements  of 
mooem  Ekxdety,  and  oottibines  the  comfort  of  a  prir  ate  hooae  witb  the  oonrenlenoeii  of  a  Fir«t-o1a«  Hotel. 

Begnnt  Snitea  ol  Private  Apartmentt.  New  and  oommodiona  Table  d'Bftte,  (MAe  Boom,  and  ladfea' 
Drawing  Boom,  fkelng  the  km.    Xxcellent  Ouisine.    Moderate  Charges. 

In  connection  with  tida  Hettl ,  aai  In  the  Mune  d^htfal  grounds,  is  a  PRITATB  HOTKL  and  BOABDINQ 
HOUSK,  which  oflbn  excellent  aocommodatlon  for  Families  Tisitiag  this  ofaarming  neighbourhood. 

'■  Po9t  Sot  set  (vnd  Carriagei  of  every  description.    Coaches  in  tJie  season  to  Barnstaple, 
Hfiraeoti/ibet  and  Minehead.     First-class  JCxmoor  Ponies  for  Sale. 

THOMAS  BAKSB,  Proprietor. 


kn^i* 


I K  >  *    >  rf  ■  ei  ^ 


■*««iW«i«l«> 


rtlW 


■»^IP" 


LYNTON  (NORTH   DEVON). 
THE    VALLEY    OP    ROCKS  HOTEL. 

THIS  riv^nteind''lfcd«fifully'^sittiate'Pirsi(3la8s  Hotel  is 
- .  bnilt  on  ond  of  the  Itawst  sttes  in  tile  iieigtabMirhobcU  and  largetj^  pabonised  by  IiUb 
'  ba/L  S^miliea.  It  has  be«n  doaslilsnbly  enUurgad,  lOnodeUcd,  and  impcoTed ;  and  oombinat, 
;  with  Moderate  GhargeBp  all  neoeaaary  meana  for  the  aooommodation  and  comfort  of  Fankillea 

and  ,Tofriftf ..  ^  The  splADdid  Ta^ie  dlldte  and  Ooffee  Boom,  Beading  Booms,  Ladles' 
DraVnn^Koom.  ana. Several  !Private  Sitting  Booms,  replete  with  every  comfort,  range  in  a 
lorig  front,  overlooking  the  Sea,  and  looking  into  the  extensive  Private  Gronnds  of  the 
Hotel.  It  is  moat  oonveniently  sitaitte  l^«a  cantve  for  visiting  all  the  places  of  Interest  in 
the  district.  Handsomely-fitted  BiUlAM^Bdom  op^n  doHhg  the  Season  for  Besidents  In  the 
Hotel  only. 

Pod'Eortet  and  Oarriaget;  alto  fhH  very  hett  hind  of  Modem  SUabling. 
JOHN  CROOK,  Pbopsietob. 


ROTAL    EDINliURGH    HOTEL. 

By  Appointment  kf  H.jR%Bi  Thfi  9u1te' 

<lf  £dit&furffk'.'  •*«■'• 

Every  comfort  for  Visitors. 
Near  the  Sea.     Oaitf  ein. 

Address  WILLIAM  Bt:U).'' 
Steamers    boarded   on   Arrival. 


jyiArDEIRA. 


SANTA    CLAHA    HOTEIi. 

Admirably  ^ite^ed,  averlooking  Fnnchal. 
JOln'e  view'  of  Momitiins  and  Sea.     Vide 
Bendell's  **  Guide  to  Madeira."     Tennis 
Ground  an4  Garden. 

A4dret«  Proprietor. 
Steamers  met  on  Arrival. 


MHiES     CABMO    HOTEIi. 

Every  comfort  for  Families  and  Single 
Travellers.  Tennis  Ground.  Billiards. 
Beading  and  Smoking^  Booins.  Large 
Garden. 

...    .  JLddrets  Proprietor. 

All  Steamers  met  on  Arrival. 


Hortas  (German)  Hotel. 

FIRST-CLASS  HOTEL. 

SPLEITDXDLY  SITUATED. 

Bea  ind  Mountain  Views. 
German,  French,  and  EnsUah  spoken. 
Address  F.  NUNES,  Manager. 


»t-r 


<m  » 


MADRID. 


GRAND  HOTEL  DE  LA  PAIX. 

FIltST-OLASS  H6tel,  Boarding-House,  in  the  finest  part  of  the  Ptiefta 
dlel  SolfW^th  nu^i^oent  views  and  full  southern  aspect.  Table  d'Hdte.  Private' 
service'.' liarge  and  small  apartments.  Batb.  Beading-room,  with  Piano.  Foreign  lfew«> 
wva^.! . '  Gteu <  cemibrt  and  cleanliness.  French  Ouitine,  Omnibus  at  Ballway  Stationi. 
lolerpf^ters,.    .•                                                 '      ,     •  •      .  •    • 

Graaid  Kdtjol  4a  Londrei.    Family  HoteL    Annex  of  the  Edta  de  ^  Pai»,  nnd^. 
the  same  management.     Moderate  Prices.  

T.'  OAPDEVTBLIiB  &  Co., 

Proprietort  qf  1)oth  Boutes. 


UWta 


•Adaah 


44  wnuurs  handbook  MmKnen.  tuj. 


MARIENBAO. 

HOTEL    KLINGER. 

FntST  and  Largest  Hotel,  with  private  houses,  HALBH AYR'S  HOUSK 
MAXHOF  No.  100,  and  the  recently  opened  HOTEL  KLINGER,  late  Stadt  Dre«lei( 
**  oonneoted  with  tbe  Old  Houae,"  moat  beauUfal  aitnation  of  the  Spa,  situate  at  the  oorner 
of  tbe  Promeoade  on  the  Krenzbrnnnen  and  the  Park,  commanding  a  charming  ylew. 
Newly  and  elegantly  furnished.  350  Rooms  and  Saloons.  Reading,  Conversation,  and 
Smoking  Booms.    Lift.    Table  d'hute  and  4  la  carte.    Meals  sent  out  into  private  houses. 

Carriage*  at  the  Hotel,     Omnibus  at  the  Station. 

In  answer  to  several  Inquiries,  the  Proprietor  hegs  to  intinuite  that  he  does  not  keen 
Touters,  and  therefore  b^  to  warn  Travellers  against  anjr  fiUse  statements  respecting  hb 
Hotel  being  ftOl,  etc 

J.  A.  HAT.BMAYa,  ProprMtinr. 

MARTI6NY,(VALAI8), 

THIS  Firsi>«la0a  Hotel  is  situated  in  a  ^ae  pontioD,  enjoying  a  verf 
extended  view  of  the  Valley  of  the  Rhone  and  the  Ckd  de  la  Forclaz  (Route  far 
Ohamminix).    Moderate  Prioes.    Carriages  for  drives.  .  Onmibos  at  all  Trains. 

J.  CIilEtRO,  Proprietor. 

MAYENCE. 


Firit'Clofs  HateU. 

HOTEL  DE  HOLLANDS. 
HdTEL  D'ANGLETEBBE. 
HOTEL    DU    BHIir. 


Beat  Seeond-Clau  HoUi. 

HdTEL   BE    LA    CARPE. 


MENTONE.    (Alpea  Maritimeo.) 


HOTEL    DES    ANGLAIS. 

THIS  well-known  Establishment,  the  only  Hotel  having  a 
Lift  (in  the  East  Bay),  has  been  newly  improved,  and  oombines 
every  modern  comfort  with  moderate  and  fixe<l  prices.    Sitnated  in  the   I 
East  Bay,  near  the  favourite  residence  of  Her  Majesty  Qaeen  Vlctcnria. 

£.  ARBOQAST,  Proprietor. 


1893.  wmkVS  fiAKMOOK  ADVERTBBR.  45 

h6tel  Westminster: 

pENTRAL  FIRST-CLASS  ESTABLISHMENT,  in  a 
Vy  Southern  aspect,  oTerlookin^  the  sea,  'vrith  a  beautiful  Garden  giving 
(U)ce88  to  the  "  Promenade  du  Midi."  The-  new  proprietor,  an  Englieh- 
mftii,  has  greatly  enlarged  and  improved  the  Hotel,  adding  a  Lift,  aiyl 
re-stocking  the  cellars  with  excellent  Wine.  English  cleanliness  and 
coknfort.    Pension  arrangements. 

SEYERAIj    FOBEIGK    LAKOnAGEB    SPOKEN. 

.    .  Onmibut  to  and  from  the  Station. 

^  MENTONE. 

h6tel    de    belle    vue. 

'PHB  W0^-k]^o\m  ]|BTABL1IBHMS)KT  is  heaiitifnlly  sitaated  in  ,the 

-Lr     Best  ffajMar  of  the  Ta%Di  frftta  n  ^ast  O^Hetr,  ant-  aflbrds  every  E^glldt  eomlbi^. 

Laysn, Tennis  Court. 

'  G.'ISNAItD,  Proprietor. 

wr  E  T  z. 

GRAND   HOTEL  DE  M 


Well  known  for  its  Comfort  and  Cleanliness. 

SXCEIiLENT     AOCOMMODATIOM. 
IMEoderate    OhajTsres. 

. .  LONDON  TIMES. 

(JRAIH)  HOTEL  i)E  IflLAH. 

200  Booms  and  Saloons,  wiibh  every  comfort  and  r^q^oiremiBiit 

of  the  present  day. 

THE  ONLY  HOUfeE  AT  MILAN  WHICH  HAS  A  TELEGRAPH, 

POST,  AND  RAILWAY  OFFICE. 

Hydraulic  Lift. 

J.  SPATZ, 

Co^roprietor  of  the  Qrcmd  Hdtet  at  LoeaMno^  and 
of  the  Grand  H6td  at  Venice. 

MILAN. 

THE     ENGLrlSH    AND    GERMAN     PHARMACY. 

0.  ^TAXIVI,  Cbettlai  to  Hk  Mi^Mty  the  EiiKr  «r  Italf. 

VIA   HANZONI,   MILAN   (opposite  the  Grand  Hotel  de  Milan). 

ENGLISH,    FRENCH,   GERMAN.   AND   AMERICAN    SPECIALITIES. 

PrtKriptiOM  prepared  hy  qualified  English  and  German  AssuUi'nts,  according  tQ  thtir 

respective  Pharmacopatas.        . 

Me*sifcAK  Watbr  naPOT. 


waia*— M— ■      \iii^m^mmmm*»m 


46  ^vm^v9,iJ^»mH»ii^^ymwm.  m^t* 


HOm  BE  tA  GRAM  W^if 

E   REICH  MANN. 

"PIEST-OL  ASS  HOTEL.   The  best  situated  and  most  centiral 

-'-     of  the  town*    Is  entirely  tmnaform^ .  and  ,reDoyated  thipogbout. 
Offers  to  Travellers  the  greatest  Comfort  with  all  iiodqrn.  Imppv^ep^ 

BOi^SI  &  AMBHOSETTI. 


T'  I'M 


7,  FW  MANZOm. 

J^IKST-CLASS     HOTECi,     poijjjining    200    Roomfl,     and 
Salons.    The  nearest  to  the  bathedral,  Post  Office,  and  Theatre  de 
1»»SH^-    FiiljSonth  a^F^ct        t  ./.  "r,    ^  [  •       ^  ^A  J,  q  f 

•        Hydrattttc  iift.  With  Safety 'Apparaiite.' '  ^'  ■  ^^ 

*  HABINI,  LEONANI,  &  CO. 


MONT    ^.    MiOHtL'  ^tttftiiihe$j. ''  ^ 

liTElFU  WOrD'OR.  ^ 

RIDBL.  Proprietor.     1b»  fOMi -aMnifiliidalle 
from  its  PodtioA  and  OBttfort;     Bedroom 
haTing  a  Sea  View.    PrioM  partloaUrly  modmale. 
Ourriagea at  aU  the  Tixiiu at Fontascm Mikbfer 
MantStMicheL 


I  :.THE''M(teMM%. , 

^ A  Series  of  B^o/fjr  Hstftiihg^    fty 
.    .£sK^7j(^|aB.     2   vols,    Im- 
perial 4(0.    4z<.  each. 

^  ^(W^  MVtbbat,  Albemarle  Street. 


MULHCKl^Cf  i(ALSACD. 


j[]!r  1?o W  the  Only  Tirsf rClass  EetaiiisTinient  for  Merchants 
and  Families.    .This'Hou3e  has  he^n  entiTely  redecorated.    Bal;h& 


Ordtild  Caf^  Smoking,  and  Biliianl. Booms,  and  lar^^a^dl^n.'  %^  £^1^ 
is  in  Telephonic  oonhecdbn  "with  th6  'MbV^hanti"  Offices  in  Town  and 
Keighbourhood. 

MulhouBS  is  t&e  best  resting-place  between  Fiance,  Belgiam,  Holland, 
J,^j^  a^d  Switzerland; 

'  E.  GRAEUB,  Proprietor. 

~    \  MUNICH.  .    ^.  .  .    .   ,      -.,.. 

THIS  Excellent  and  well-known  First-class  fiotql  is  situated  near  the 
Railways,  and  wKhin  a  short  distance  of  the  Boyal  Galleries  and  other  promin^t 
BaiMiDgB..  Personal  management  by  the  Proprietor;   Modit^ite' Charges. 

<. ,     :   i  .  ft  *»Egg6a«SBaSlP.  ProprietOT. 


■^ 


HVHUrs  aAMDBOOK  AJDVBKTiaKfc 


ABOU 


MUNICH,  1883.  ■  - 
From  tha  let  of  JULT  to  tbe  ISth  of  oalrOBBK. 

IlfTEMTIIW^EXHIBmOR 
;DrifflE.ARTSt 


MUNICH. 

:.WIMMER  &  CO., 

CIAX.I.JBBir        OFFINB         aJb  T  B, 

S,   BBIENMKEt   STREET, 

the  KobUlQr  ind  Oentrf  la  '  tIiII  their  G^uXiT  or  Fin  Ana,  mnitinli.-  m 
EriemlnCoDBctloii  of 

MODERN    PAINTINGS 

1^  the  bHtUimldi  AitUtt. 
PAXNTINOS  OUT  POBOBLAIN  AND   OH  OIiASB. 

Kd^VA  Hmn.  J.  k  B.  W>Cmcuk.  St.  (^bh*  Gtcwt,  Ciuioa  BtnM, 
mpoDdeDla-'ls  ths  CnlWd  atel«,  Hoen.  Bauivu  Bio*,  k  Oo, 


NANTES. , 

H6tEL    DE    FBANOk 

PLACE  QBA£LIN.     VEBT  FINE. 

FIBST-CLABS   Hold.    Entirely  teDorated.    I«W  tmd  iSnialt  lApavt- 

"     laaiiU  for  FuhUIol   Suing  Kooiiu.    BedioamB  from  3  tr.  Ttble  d'btu^    Batuinuit. 

OmiMut  and  Otrriaea.     engUA  tpohtn. 

DOUKT,  PropMstor. 


4d  HITBRAT'S  fiAKDBOOK  da>yEITKir«  Ms^, 

•    yy  I 

StilBse.  KEVCHATEti.  SulBse. 

GRAND   HOTEL  DE   LAC. 

W.  HAFBN,  Proprietor. 

FIRST-CLASS  HOTEL,  opposite  the  Steamen,  ^th  dunning  Ylews  of  tbe  Lake  and 
Alps.    Specially  fkcqaenled  by  English  Families.    A  rvj  Oomf<Hrtable  House,  with 
most  reasonable  Prices.    N.B.— The  Pn^rietor  speaks  EugUsh. 

NICE  (GARABACEU.  "^  NICe! 

TliiWT   TTTTTTW         HOTEL  Diss  princes. 

nUlJilL  JUiililJSlIls      T1IBST.0LAS8      Family     Hotel. 
HIGHLY  RECOMMENDED.  J-     situated  on  the  Qusidn  Midi.   Sheltered 

ModerttU  Charget,  \  dtnatlon,   with  a  fine  view  of  the  Sea. 
JBAJ  JPLLH J  et  FIL8,  AIb^  Proprietors,      ^^'^^^g"  Moderate.         J.  B.  ISJABD. 

S0GI£TE  AHOHTHE  DE  LA 
GRARDE  JPTAGKE. 

HOTEL  DE  LA  GRANDE  PRETAGNE. 

Best  Position  in  the  Town,  facing  the  Public  Gardens,  where 
.  Gomserts  are  given  Daily,  and  overlooking  the 

PROMERADE  DES  ANGLAIS  AND  THE'  SEA. 

.  "A^W  Biflftdlng  and  ftSLOkkig  Bo<tiniB.    BoatlL  . 

COSMOPOLITAN    HOTEL 

(late  Otaauirain's)* 

Enlargedy  Restored,  and  eniireiy  He/urnished  by  the  New  Manager. 
Beading,  Iiadies*  Drawing,  Billiard,  Und  Smoking  Booms. 

SPLEXrtDID    6alI-5:RIE     PROMENOlR* 

FOUR     LIFTS. 

J.  LAVITi  Directeur-OSrant. 


■ii#  ■  1 1  I  I   1 1 1        I  1 1  111  1 1   I  < I 


NICE. 

HOTEL  DE  FRANOE-^Qaai  MaBB^na* 

M~«  S.  ZUNDEL,  Proprietress.         .    . 

FIBST-GLAS8  FAMII4Y  HOTEL,  of  wiyeraal  J»putation, 
oommanding  a  find  ^iew  of  the  Sea,  and  in  beet  ocnkal  position, 
close  to  the  Publio  Garden  and  the  Promenade.  House  Patronised 
eapeoiAlly  by  English  and  Ameriean  families.    Lift. 

TakiU  d^HdU,  havittg  the  BeptUcUion  of  being  the  beH  in  Nice,    Charges 

very  moderate. 


1988. 


mBRUrS  BAMOBOOK  ADTWiaWB. 


4» 


;.  -   i 


NUREMBERG. 

H6t£L    DE    BAVIJ^BE. 

Pbopbiktmsb,  Mbs.  G.  P,  AUINGEE. 

THIS  First-Cfatt  Hotel  Is  situated  in  the  middle  of  the  Town,  close  to  the  ' 
.  fiirer.    It  M  ikigjnif  patronised  by  Gngti^h  and  American  Families.     Every  ' 
comfort  and  Moderate  Charges.    Hot  and  Oold  Baths  in  the  Hotel. 

pmMfbfmto  and  from,  ecu^  Train,    Carriqge$  iif^u  BtM,  > 

ENGLISH  CHURCH  SfiRVICK  HELD  EVERT  SUNDAY  IN  THE     BOTEl 

NUREMBERQ. 

RED  H0B8E  HOTEL  (ROTHES  ROSS). 

FIRST-CLASS  HOTEL,  highly  patronised  by  English  aud  American  Families.    Situated 
fn  theniicMleoftlieTuwn.    Moderate  Terms. 

GAIiEMBERTI  and  SON»  Proprietors. 


NAPLES. 
HdTEL  DE  ROME. 

Vdtarr.BATK  BOTEL. 
IncompatafbM  citnation  Au*ing  the  Sea  and 
oyerlooking  the  Bmt  awl  M»f»^4  Veaavtes. 
Great  Bath  EOamikw^it. 
A.  BRUSCHETTI.  Manaobe. 


08TEND. 
MERTIAN'S 

FIBST-QLa^    . 

FAMrtjT    ROn^EOi   AKD 
PEUBiaON. 

Close  to^he  Kursaal. 


OSTEKD.  ^""^^ 

H6TEL    DE    LA    PLAGE. 

FIRST-CLAaS  HOTEL  PACING  THE  BATHING  PLACE. 
Hi^f  reoommskd^ 

J.  and  O.  THOMA»  Proprietors. 

08TBNB.  ''      '        ' 

HOTEL   DE    RUSSIE. 

DIOUE  DU  MSB. 
Fktt-Olass  £b>tel  next  the  OarautI,  and  opposite  the  Bftths. 

.  AUf3^.  gQBQ33K'S^  Proprietor. 

OXFORD. 

MIT3EIB    BCOTBXj. 

Is  patroniaed  by  Boyalty,  Nobility,  Distinguished    Foreigners  and 
FamllieB.    Affords  every  Comfort  and  Accommodation.    Charges  Moderate.    Ladies' 
Coffee  Room.-   BJltlarda.    Enablished  UOO.        

OXFORD. 

Il^3VI>OLtPH[      HOTEL. 

,  ^    :  Ttii  ONLY  if0DMBN  HOtlSL.    FIIi£a^c£d38.  '' 
Every  Oomfort.      Close  to  the*  OoUeges.      Prices  Moderate. 

HISS  I'AKSGN,  Hana^erMs. . 


mmmKm^t^ 


E 


so  JtWUrfr  HAXMOOK  iDtlBVaiK  mfi 

Priooen^ndflrrovCntrlKoffnJK, Hi  Pri^^Loflfil LacillrB(Rm  the 

mott  central  part'«f  tbftOltF,  And  neir  to^ttie  DrUKll>alJ^4IMr4l4  bNm  of  Interest  to 
▼kiton.   FamiUed  and  iG[&tlef&6iwmfidaUb  Hotel  i«^teM^  Spadona 

00|reepnd.tmU«nlBopin#4  Pi^vMfi  Sitting  and  Bfd  fioons  en  aoltn.  Ladlea*,Oolfee^fQB> 
QoUkp  alwajt  id  attendance.  FaahionaHe  Open  and  Cloae  Carnagei.,  Job  i^a  Poat  BorMi. 
Qoott  Stabling  and  t>m>modloaaOoacbHoaaes.-'l()^}ry.  ATfWOOB.  Proprietor. 

II* I  '■  I  I    tilm   I   iMif,    mfr        iijii    I  iiTi  in Iif^    iiM  ■     II     I  III 

PABIS. 

h6TEL    BELLE    VUE. 

.  '  :  59.  AVUi^B  DE  L'OPEli  A;    : 

FINEST  SITUATION  IN  TBE^  FBENCB  CAPITAL. 

JL      Smokmg   Kooms.     Hydraulic  l<iit.     ^atns.     Teiepnone. 
Ehtrance  Hall^  Staircases,  aud  Corridors  are  Heated.    .Arrangexuieata  if 
the  Winter  Season; 

-.    L  BaLUSEE^JProprietor. 

.0  >>;  j3  r*    » ' •'   'i.fli"     

•-^'W  A  r:  '..]    .       PARIS*.    -         >■•..■•■;  '^  f 

.B6T«fe   PSJSI    DEUX    MONDES 
,      JBT  p'ANGLETERRBi 

22,   AVENH,?;..I)E   L'oiPERA. 

.;,     jyCr.LSA^EU,  Proprietor. 
Splendid  Situation  betwded  ihe  Toileiries  .i^nd  the  New  Grand  Opera. 


JJ  . 


«fiADl«t6^'8M0Kilil'&y  AN&  BllLMRD  ROOMS.    B»TH& 

o  J 1  [  <  •<  y,  J 

THE  HOUSE  IS  HEATED  AIili  OVBB. 


PLYMOUTH. 

•  ^  ^-  ^i_i'  ^'  -^   '^y  ^*^  *^*  *f  ^4^  c  1  y   /v  J^  f 

Facing  Sound,  Breakwater^  b^ ,  Mail  SteamexB  anchor  in  sight    Public  Boonia.  and  SittlnK 
Bofvn*  iritk  Jiftlolliiea. .  '.  ..  i  JAMES  BOHN.  Proprietor. 


m^ 


tfDBKAt^  BANDBtME  iDVQtTIBIIR. 


59  MUBRArS  HANPBOC^  ADTIIBTISER.  Mmf, 


PARIS. 


Second  Edition,  with  350  IHustrations,  8yo,  ISs. 

THE  PARKS   AND    GARDENS    OF    PARIS,  oon- 

Bideyed  in  Belaiimi  to  the  Wants  of  other  Cities  and  of  Public  and 
PriTate  Gardens :  bein|(  Notes  on  a  Study  of  Paris  Cku'dens.  By 
W.  BOBXHSON,  FX.B. 

*'  The  French  parica,  iMweaadea,  gardenfl.  and  sqiures  are  all  better  kept  tbaii  owra.  We 
Inut  that  the  example  they  hare  set  ns  In  improving  both  the  artistic  appearance  aaicanitary 
condition  of  their  dty  will  not  be  lost  on  those  who  have  grand  opportunities  to  do  as 
much  for  London  and  the  Londoners.  Many  nsefdl  bints  may  be  obtained  from  Mr.  Robin- 
son's book."— AtOdsr. 

"  The  ttlnttrations  which  are  scattered  over  the  volume  assist  in  maklnf  fiaUir  clear 
the  lessons  of  this  dearly  and  cleverly-written  work." — Saturday  Beview, 

'*  With  reference  to  the  especial  sutjecfca  of  which  H  treats,  Paris  has  never  before  been 
so  thorongh^  laid  c^u.**—Aihetmum. 

**  The  author  examines  the  various  parks  and  public  gardens  of  Paris  in  reference  to  the 
particulars  fai  which  they  diffir  Arom  our  own.  He  describes  the  operations  in  tbe  immense 
and  admirably-oondaGted  establishments  belonging  to  the  state  or  city  for  the  supply  of 
the  parks,  gardens,  and  public  buildings,  and  altogether  the  work  is  one  of  great  value.'* — 
Standard,  ,.,      ;  . 

**  While  one  part  may  be  sidd  to  be  devoted  to  the  public  health,  the  other  treats  of  t|ie 
no  less  important  questicm  of  the  supply  of  food,  and  Mr.  Robinson's  detailed  meouit  of 
the  more  unportant  fruits  and  vegetudis  for  the  Paris  markets  will  be  read'%Uib  tr^ 
interest  by  consumers,  and  no  little  praftt  by  the  producers  of  sudi  neoessailetf  of  lift.*'— 
Jfotet  and  Queriei. 


Works  by  the  Mone  Author. 
AIiPINE  FLOWERS  FOR  ENGLISH  GARDENS. 

How  they  may  be  Grown  in  all  parts  of  the  British  Islandir;    With 
Woodouts,  Crown  8to.  7c.  Qd, 

THE    SUB-TROPICAL  GARDEN;    or,   Beatrty   of 

Form  in  the  Flower  Garden.    With  Illustrations.    Small  8ro.  * 

THE  WILD  GARDEN ;  or,  Our  Groves  and  Gardens 

made  Beautiful  by  the  Naturalieatioii  of  HJardy  Ezotio  Plants.    With 
90  niustratioDB.    $m. 

HARDT  FLOWERS.  Deseriptions  of  upwards  of  1300 
of  the  most  Ornamental  Bpecies;  with  directions  for  their  Arrange- 
ment, Culture,  &c.    Post  8yo. 


JOHN  MURRAY,  ATiBEMARLE  STREET. 


MUBRArS  HANDBOOK  ADVERTI8ER. 


P  A  U. 

WINTER  BE80BT,  lenowaed  for  the  uuneroaB  omes 
L     wbich  a  residence  haa  efiboted,  pBrtfanlaH;  in  ca»t  b  of  AfibcUoiu  of 
tbe  Chest,  Heart,  Laryai,  and  Tbroat. 

Pact  posae«aes  (t  mild  and  aalnbTunis  climate,  Ijinv  in  the  midat  of 
.  KeueiT  of  great  grandeur ;  on  three  dayi  in  each  vteek  Fox-hunting  and 
Poli>  Uatoheg  ta£e  place,  and  during  the  vinter  and  (<priiig  (here  a~ 
Hone  BaceB  twice  eTcry  month. 
In  addition  to  these  attinotioDBi  there  kie  Good  Olnba,  a  Theatre,  Opera, 
,  two  OaainoB,  Balls,  Pigeon  Bhootinf  Hatches,  Grioket  Hatohe?,  Skfttbg 
Bioks,  Englith  Boardiog  and  Day  School,  &a,,  &c 

riBHT-OIiASB    HOTEL    AND   QOOD   BOARDINQ    HOUBXS. 

Villas,  Honsn,  and  ramiahed  ApartmentB  to  Let, 

AT  VARIOUS  PBIOSS. 


GRAND  HdTEL^BEAO  StJOUR 


UUKRAT'S  HANDBOOK  ADFBBTiaEA: 


1989.  MITRBArS  HANDBOOK'  AD^RTIBBX.  M 


'T'JD-Lr   -M  IE  ABE  A©,;- 

&^  llElvte  de  1^'  "P^iA^l 

PcOronised^  Hie  Sayk  PhmiKd  'of^seifefU^Vhhiriivf  Europe. 

iy55X]&iriPtrt.]PX  Bitu^ted  b^twf  en  the  t\ioe  Veni^5me  and 
J-'  the  New  Opera|  ihia  Hotel  poeeeaaeB  the  prettiest  Court-^ard  in 
Paris.  TMb  d'Hote  at  qeparate  Tables.  All  languages  spoken.  Lih 
to  each  ItoOkl    ArMuigem^ts'msde  doting  the  WM%r; 

."'  '^'i  K,r  .  1   .    .    .    POffiSKT  .(Uncle  and  Nephew),  Proprietors. 


.A 


.;  >-.'.v 


Hom  torn  e£AiiDE  bbeushe 

ET  B'AIGLETEEBE. 


..J 


'Tip  j^^T  HOli'ElL  tl^'  PlfSA  (see.Mttffft^'i  Handbook  of 
,:^i  iCentri^  It^y),  opiposite  th^,lireLr  Bridge,  ^'  Point  SolfezinOr^  |eadi«|f 
difl^i  t9i  thet  hbamag  To^en  Battonised  by  Henry  HT^c^worth  Ixmgr 
fen5w:~B^lo^P^ffi^.  ^n<l  if aAlmo  "i!rj?egiio,  whose  recommemlation  is 


Fifty  years  established,  and  known  for  its  great  oomfort.  Splendid 
Terraoe,  with  view  of  the  Sarrounding  Oonntry  and  Cathedral.  Full 
South  OQ  the  Amo,  with  a  nice  Garden. 

.  Next  to  the  English  Church. 

OAPOCGHI  AND  MEX^tSINI, 

Spedttl  Terms  at  Moderate  Prices  for  the  Winter  ^aaton. 


.  ''      .PISA. 

ItOYA^  VIOVOBIA  HOTJDL. 

Attorn.    OrttA  oMmHon.    atemmmOBd. 

M^BfnT'llAaVAy  B6Qs)|tf»  Banking  OfB^ 
MiUkflieBoleU 


RAPHAEL :  His  Life  and 

Works.    By  J.  A.  Owwm 
and   Gi,  B.  Oayalcabblui.  ' 
Vol.  it    8vo,  15«. 


HOT  EL   V I G  TOR  I  A. 

'•••"■'  iFintMCliuas  !^aiiuiy  Hotel*,./ 


H  inTRRirs  HAHDBODK  ADV£KnBEB.  Ha;, 

FJbllCRTX. 

HOTEL  «(rLj)|ff  meu  zum  goldinin^^ibl 

HOTEL  DE  UNfiE;.^0'OfL. 

Zeltner  Street,   Old   Xo-wm. 

,  Situated  at  ap  eaiy  dktance  from  the  Bsilwaf  to  Itoe^eu  aiu}  VienoA, 
Post  and  Telegnph  Offlcea,  tLe  CiiBtom  House,  ,tlid  Heatre,  ftnd  CtW 
pnblic  Ibuildings.  ' ' 

Englieh  aiid  Fteaeh  Nemtgapert.     Cold  ond  Warm  Batkt,  , 

•  •  -  P.  BTOCKBl/,  Proprietor. 


PYRMONT.  W«ld«ek. 

ypfaaii  BjjtTqgBB,  ProprtWim. 


r»»'str." 


RAGATZ. 

SOHWEIZBBHOF  HOTEL   ft 

.'     PSHSZOH,  ' 

Bgsr  illuUuD,  Dttt  to  uie  Billu,  afcrdt 
psnihn.  Ii«lU).  ruvn.  Oo^m.  Nole'iU 
™™'-  a.  yiiliB.  Proprietor. 


REIMS. 

GRA,ND   HOTEL 

Beat  BstablUbmenf  in  the  1*0141. 
Oppoetto  Qm  CatbbdmL  Under 
BuglMk  Ud  AmoiIcUi  pBtgrtnUge. 


RHEINFALL      N£UHAU6eN,  SOHAFFHAySEN^ 


HOTEL  SCliWJflZEBHOE'.'  ^bofbirob,  Hb.  VBGENSTBIN. 

part  uil  tviln.    Tb«iimHfcni't«WUriMl.lHTitmlt»»lnJlJJj  dfilioTi  m  niflw  ii|»w»mli 


1883. 


MtTRRArs  BANDBOOK  ADtVKRTISKR. 


57 


fiOTEL  AND  PENSION  BIQH-SOHEIISBGK. 

Tierminus  Station  of  the  Bigi  KaltbadUSoheideok  Bailway. 

ExcdUntly  suited  for  Twrisfs  and  PentioMra.     View  on  the  Atps 

aa  beautiful  as  at  Bigi'Kulm, 

MODERATE   CHARGES.  LIBERAL   TREATMENT. 

Bg^  •  tUj  of  iM>t  hsf  thtn  foor  (toys,  lumngemeiit  by  pention  otn  1m  BMdf  at  t  to  12  tfsass 
par  cUy  per  pertoB.    For  fartlier  infonnatiifti  apply  to  the  ^^ 

Proprietors,  HATT8SB  ft  STIXBtilN. 

N.B.*^Toailite  hftviog  Tkketa  from  ViteaMi  to  Rigi-Kulm  can  iatornipt  the  jjttmey  at 
Rlgl  Kaltbad,  take  advantoge  of  iSio  beauUfttl  Exonralon  to  Scheideck  and  back,  and  then 
eontbmfr  the>nft«y  to  Kma  fey  a  Mlowing  Train. 


RIQI-KAUTBAD. 


i«Ma 


A  LPINE  OLIMATB.    1500  metres  above  ^e 

•^^    to  October.  First-daaa  HoteL  w!th  300  Booms  comforl 


sea.  Opened  from  Jnne 
Hotel,  with  300  Booms  comforUbly  ftinmbed.  Finest  sitaa- 
ttdn.  The  only  EstabUdunent  on  the  Bi^  sheltered  ftxHn  the  eold  winds,  liarge  Park  and 
Gardens,  Teltaeiis,  YeranOaha,  eepeefally  far  the  nse  of  Viaitora.  Level  Walks  and  fasilitieB 
for  Exearsiona. 

-  B«l)w»y  StafMoB.    Post  and  Telegraph  OflBkia.   Physieian.   Baths.   Divine  Service.    Good. 
Orcheatral  Band. 


2rEW8PAPJSB8,J3JLlIARD6\  ic„  IN  THE  HOU^E. 

tension   Arrangements. 

Ftiriher  information  will  be  given  by 

r  X  SS^SSSSSTE  TAADIBXJ,  Proprietor. 

'  ROME.  ^ 


H6TEL    MINERVA. 

THIS  largQ  Ji^tfklbU^hmdutj  Whqse  dire<?t!|otL  has  lately  been 
taken  up  «g&in  by  the  Proprietor,  IlL.Js^Beph.  Sauvj^^has  been 
oonsiderably  ain^iorqled  both  as  regards  Kie  perfeol  servioel  afid  Die 
m^t  elaborate  consfort.  Large  Apartments  as  wel).  a»  small,  aiid  Booms 
for  Parties  with  more  modest  tastes,  both  very  carefully  furnished,  are  to 
be  found  here. 

Hs  posHi^  is  one  of  the  most  advant|»geo^«.  It  .is  situated  iiv  tha 
very  centre  of  the  ^own,  and  close  to  the  hiost  remarkable  IHonvmenlift, 
the  Post  and  Telegraph  Offices,  the  House  of  .Parliament,  and  the  Senate. 

The  Ladies'   Drawing  Boom,  the    l^mokin^  Boom,  .  and 
1   Beading  Booms,  -where  the  principal   Newspapers  of  every  country 
are  to  be  found,  and  the  Bathing  Booms,  are  always  carefully  warmed. 

TWO  OMNIBUSES   BELONGING  TO  THE   HOTEL  MEET 

EVEIjlV   TRAIN. 

THE  WAlTEMif  AND  CHAMBERMAIDS  8PEAK  ALL   THE 

PRINCIPAL   LANQUAOm. 

VERY    MODERATE    TERMS. 


■Bfa 


58  MiriiBAf'^  HANWOOK'  ADVJBfKTSSmr  V^^ff 


foil  South,  latbe  moiit  healthy  part,  of  Uo  Town.    Large  and  tmaXX  Apartments.    Table 

and  Billiard  Boom.  BaUi  &9om.  Pendon,  and  arrangementa  for  Families.  JCoderatepbargee. 
Omniboa  at  the  Station  to  meet*  every  Train.    The  pf  indpal  languages  are  spokeii.  - 
■•    ''  '       VISetOTTi  A  MERLI,  Proprietor. 

■  '  ROME.  ..... 

GJEAK0  h8tEL  DE  RUBate.  ET  DES  ILE8  BBItANfTOIJ?!S. 
*>,  •  Tl)i»Fiff|t-C^aM  Krtahliabnient  possesses  the  advantage  of  a  beantihil  Gior^eB,  abd  la 
aittuttra  near  the^Evglttlr  imd  JLmenean  Gfanrchea;  the  principal  Apartments  foce  the 
flontb,  the  entire'  Hotel  being  warmed  by  two  cakMidraa,  and  th^  mbole  atwmggneots  and 
iiioderileprl0Mgtve'«nl<v«ml«atiBfaoltonw    BydnaiiieLitt. 

M[AgZBSI>  Pyot)rietori 

H.    A.    KHAM-EURS    &    SON, 
-    -     nnoiiTJwa.-oir  vqsmmwv  |i»oaq%    h  •    .  f  . 

Mr.  MnniAT'a  •BamllNoks  jfor  XrwreUen,'  B^DfiM.Vf  Ifpnthlf  fliOlWajr  Paw> 
BabovkbaV  *  BeiaehMNlbQabei/  and  fiU«l^>aaiIIBI.'0'IWegrapll,^ always  ia. Stocks  •  Bookf 
in  alLJjngiiagM  isip<»te4  ey^rr  day.aada  0rea^  varied  of  New  Books/kjopt  In  S^rer 

86,  GXLDE]EUBCHE  SADS,  S6. 

ROUEN.    ,         J 
GRAND  HOTBIa  D'AXTOXtBT^RI^  .^On  tlie  Quay). 

Mr.  AUGUSTS  MONNIEK,  Proprietor.  Snooesspr,  of  Mr.  l^lf^N  aOt^C^BP^ 

rpHI9  HOTEI/  if  dlpithw»t*M  *y  tliftiftli^hcHy^  i^  sitvation,  &(x ;  and  the  new  Pro- 
X  prietor  has  dnttrelt  raWnd  It,  anV  'added  tt  Vbnr'' bomfortable  SmoUng-Boom.  It  is 
sltnated  on  the  Quay  fikcing  the  Bridges,  and  oommauds  the  fineit  view  oT  Uie  SellM,1nd 
the  magnifioent  Scenery  encircling  Boneii  IfMI  iils  ^ioealble  to  imagine.  Travellers  will 
find  at  this  first-rate  BstabUahihent  every  comfwt^-Hury  Booms,  good  Beds,  Befreshments 
and  Wines  of  the  best  quality  at  moderate  FHttft     An  exoelleat  TaUe  d'Q6to  at  Six 

.  !3ifr^Nptt  Jljfelisk,  and  hu  Ji)^'  Ip^watT:'' 

An  exoeUmU  Descriptive  Guide  of  Bouen  can  be  had  cf  Mr.  MoNimsB. 

R0YAT-LES-BA1-N8.         < 

GRAND    H 

L.  SEEVAKT,   Proprietor. 

nitST*CLA^S  mfVfS'E.       SNGLISB  Bl^OKIfl?. 

LAWN    TENNIS. 

Opened  frpm   the  First  of  May  till  the  tnd  i>fy 


October. 


<  I 


A  Buperior  flnt-cl«H  Bbtd,  nnmrpaned  ii^  the       'nuTfcL       M LI  RO PU Ll,     AN N LA 


^msi  ^3ttsziii,m^  %^smsii. 


Bathi.  A  large  doaUe  BHUAraloom.  <  CHaixkaeB  r 
tor  Stonaiienge,  Old  Benun,  WINoii  CbmiA,'  mi  ^ 
other  pUoee  of  intereit 

GBor — 


• .   ► 


VILlAi  M£TJi6R(N.bu, 

jnB8p\€US9  .BOTBL.    Fine '  ffltaaUon.  In  the 
GBOBGp=!TOWI»T^P*Wf.H  J 1    ;  \T«*»T/0.  mmt^^.  proprietor. 


188S.  UVKRAVSi  HUrD'B(k>R:  ADV^lTISER.'  M 


8AL:ZtiOfr<3. 


HOTEL    DE    L'EUROPE. 

OPPOSITE  the  Station,     First-Olasa  Hotel,  Burronnded  by  a  large 
Park,  and  ofifering  the  beit  yievn  9)Ei4be  Mountaina. 


,      PENSION^  ^  ,        , 

O,  .Jtyj(?G,,  Proprietor. 


SAN    REMO,   IT/VLY. 

WEST-END  HOTEL. 

A  LABGE  Building,  expressly  built  for  an  Hotel,  with  all 
-^  the  latest  appliances  to  iontte  petCaotion  in  sanitary  arrangements 
— its>01eiiets(  be1«9  on  the  mcyt  appt<>xe|i  English/ principle; :  B«mti|!^lly 
sitttayi  tit ^tbe  West  J^nd  of  the  To^wn,  a  ^oocl  olstande  froA  file  Bea, 
commanding  an  extensive  Yiew  of  the  Bay. 

UFT.    READING,  mLUAFip,  and  SMOKING  SALOONS. 

IlAJ^IEB'  DBiyViJNU  BOOM. 

ENGLISH  AND   fOBlll^'N  NEWSPAPERS. 

;E2xoelleiit     Onisine     a,iid     Olioioe     liViiies. 

Omnibus  of  {lie  Hotel  meets  all  Trains. 

All  Languages  spoken. 

:  '       :'  •  •    P^6^¥^X»r,  BOBEBT  WtfLFINCK 


T^- 


8CHWALBACH. 

THE  PUKE   OP   NAg3AU.  HOTEL. 

This  f  irst^ksflf  fiote^,  ¥^th  privefti  Hot^  adjdnittg,  ii  beantlftilly 
Bltuated  in  the  healthiest  and  best  part  of  the  town,  facing  the  Public  Promenadea.  and 
in  dose  proximity  to  the  Royal  Baiha,  the  New  Onrhonae,  the  Drinking  Hall,  and  the 

ftfV^tSr£id  £^?^aemeb,  ^^comU^bomfonSmFMoSme  ClitflSi.  tS 
Hotel  is  patronised  by  nu^iy  distlngaiahed  familieg  of  England  uid  tl^e  Oontinent,  Favour- 
able **Bai8tMi"^amnigeoient«  ai^  made ti'iOi^iid  6f ttie SMitm.  A-caadotttmii Omnibus 
belonging  to  the  Hotel  starts  from  Schwalbach  to  Wiesbaden  at  eight  o'clock  in  the  morning, 
and  leaves  Wiesbaden  at  five  o'clock  bi  the  afl^rnQoiL  oppgslt^  .the  Bailway  Station,  fhmi 
theTannus  HoteL  Gaft  Bk(ltfunta(t,'FktfIlnettferg,  Wbe}^  tod!  Milk  Estobllshment.  ten 
I  minutes*  walk  from  the  Nassau  Hotel,  with  whidi  there  is  commtmicatlon  by  Telephone, 


68  MUBB/irS.  HANDBOOK  ADVEBTISflR.  V4if, 

GRAND    h6tEL   DE    L'EtiltOPE. 

FI6ST-CLAS8  HOT£L.    Splendid  Sltoation.    Fine  Apartmenta.    Drawing  and  Beading 
Room.    Every  Oomfort.    Spadons  and  handsome  alterations  have  been  lately  made. 

Owmibut  qf  Hu  HoM  at  the  Arrival  of  every  Jnraim. 

SPA. 

H6TEL   DE8    PAYS-BA8. 

Vre.  I.  DX  COCK,  FlroprtetreB& 

Xj^IBSTrOLASB.  Exoepttdnal  situation  at  the  top  of  the  Town.  Large 
J-  Oarden  oppoelle  llie  Pouzian,  close  to  the  Casino  and  Balbs.  Omnibu  tt  the  Station. 
Huc^  recommended. 

ST.  PCTERSBURO. 

xxGx Ela  DE  !k RAjnCEj 

GRANDE  MORSKAIA,  No.  6, 
And  RmkM  DE  LA  MOlKA,  No.  53. 

E.  RENAULT,  Proprietor. 

THIS  Mag|)ifi<^ni  Hotel ,  is  rebuilt  on  Ae  eime  site  as  it 
,  previously  occupied,  and  is  situated  near  the  Imperial 
Palace,  the  Minister's  Offices,  the  Exchange  de  ]&,  itTeya,  tlje 
Park  AlexaodeTt  ihe  Admiralty^.. Police  Office^  and  News^y 
Perspektive.  It  contains  200  Rooms,  also  Reception  a&d 
RelMliiig  Boomfl^  Baths,  <&o.  r 


OMNtBUS  i^tTSf  TItA:tN8  AT  AIL  RAILWAY  STATIOM  . 

ALL  LANGUAGES  SPOKEN, 
,  Fit^CW  CVI^XNE.     itENOWNED  WINE  C^LLaH,     ; 

Mr.  BBNAULT,  the  new  Proprietor  of  this  Hdtel  (wliJiiU 
has  b,een  establfsliiBd  over  20  ye&rs),  ^11  spare  no  pain^to 

give  evetysatiitfiEictioitto'his^.nuineroiite.Visitbrs,  /' 

STUTTGArtT. 


18  situated-  in  th6  finb^tpaii  of  Ihe'lWn;  itt  the  beautiftil  Place  Boyal, 
A  a4ioining  the  Balli^iy  Station,  tiBar  ibe  Poet  OfPne,  the  Tb^atr^  the  Soyel  Oardens> 
opposite  the  Palace,  and  facing  rhe  Koaigsbau.  This  Hotel  will  be  found  most  comfortable 
in  every  respect ;  the  ABaatments  are  elegantly  furnisti^,  #»d  suitable  f<m  families  or 
Single  GkntlUen;    'Piblk  I'lldte  at  1  and  5  d'ddbtd  ^enclAand  l!n|lfcl  Nlkrspapers. 

.  GME;  MARQUARDT,  Proprietor. 


^  TOULOUSE. 

HOTEL  SOUyiLLB  (Place  du  Capitole). 

RfiPt  by  M.  DA:EtDIGN AC,  Restaurateur.  A  First-class  Honse,  one  of  the  best^tuated 
in  the  Town,  elose  to  ifh^Orand  Theatre;  Post  and  Telegtaph  Office.  Is  to  be  reeorii- 
mended  from  Its  good  Attendance,  ttost  cpnifortable  A|>artments,  Salonfi,  and  Bedrooms. 
Restaurant  at  fixed  Prices,  or,^  td  tartt.  Pbtft^  Servibe  for  Famil^e^.  Baths  and  PriTate 
Carriages  in  tbe  Hotsl.  '  Oitmges  and  Omnibtas  enter  thie  OonrtSrird  of  ti|e  Hotel. 


1-885'  MTTlflRArS  flANteOOK'  ADVKRtfeER.  63 


.1. 


THlfN    (Switrerlknd). 

GORiidj^b  h:<)tel  de  thwnh 

(THUNERHOFX 

proprietor,  ^  BIABBXB,  formerlf  |Caafw«r  »t  the  Hotel  Bim^  au  Id|o,. 

Znnoh.  i 

FiBST-GLASS  HOTEL,  the  largest  and  most  comfortable  in  the  place, 
beautlfolly  situated  at  the  Lake,  with  a  splmdid  view  of  the  Alps,  and  stinontided 
hj  a  Urge  Qardeli.  A  Terrace  fomid  the  wbole  Uag^  of  the  Honae ;  no  equal  in  Swltser- 
laod.    'Jliere  la  also  a  Lift; 

MNGLISS  LIBRARY. 

Pension  the  whole  Season,  by  staying  Five  Bays. 
'   '"^   "'  "^^  fOiJUOUSE. 

ailAKD  HOTEL  DtT  MIDI 

Patronised  by  the   Duke  of  Norfblk  a,iul  Duo  d*AUnla(fe. 
BEAUriFffLLT  SITUATED  ON  THE  PLAGE  DU  CAPITOLE, 

FIRST-CLASS    ESTABLISHMENT, 

Offerhig   the   same    oomforta  as   the   largest  Hotels  in  France. 

^xSmqpfB^jyfUh^  Mglmh-QUMfi  of  E^g}ml^^'hi  dtnericaw  fRmv^flefm  > 
E^impqlrexl.  :j  I^taurant  afid  Tf^lSle  id'pate.  ^  BichvBeadi|]|pJ|o^ 
and  Conversation  Salon.      *'The  "nmes  **  Newspaper. ' 

.  /  l-mna.  FOURQUIBB,  Prcprielor. 


\    ;      • 


TOURS. 


T^ 


GRAND    HOTEL, 

DE   L'UNIVERS. 

ON  THE   BOULEVARD,  NEAR  THE 

STATION. 

.£lai*opeaii  S.eptitiji,tiOix. 


» •    «•     — 


Highly  recdi^ertded  ?ri  air  th^  Prfench 
and  Forefgn 'Guide  Books< 

EVGSHB  GUILLAUME,  Proprietor 


64 


MURIUrS  HANDBOOK  ADV£BTIS£R. 


Maj, 


TRIBERQ, 

In  the  middle  of  the  celebrated  Railroad  of  the  Black  Forest. 

BIERINGER'S   BLACK  FOREST    HOIJEL 

FIB8T  ClaASS.    Opened  ftom  the.  let  of  May,  1877. 

SITUATED  on  a  dharming  Hill,  at  fbe  moet  magaifloent  point  of  the 
Town,  overlooking  from  all  parts  the  highly  celebrated  Cascade.    It  in  tbe  finest  and 
most  elegant  Hote.l  at  Trlberg,  fitted  up  with  all  tbe  comforts  of  the  present  time. 

Surrounded  with  a  large  terrace,  a  very  handsome  park  and  pleasanC  promenades ;  and 
containing  80  very  comfortable  Bedrooms  and  Saloons,  26  Balconies,  splendid  Brealcfast  and 
Dining  Rooms,  Smoking,  Reading,  and  Conversation  Rooms;  it  offers  a  very  agreeable 
Resklenoe,  at  ten  minutes'  distance  from  the  Railway  Station.  Two  elegant  Stage  Coaches 
and  a  Landau  me^t  all  Trains.  Every  Sunday,  English  0ivhie  Service.  Reduced  prices 
during  tiie  Spring  and  Autumn. 


TUNIS. 


GRAND  HOTEL  DE  PARIS 

Bit  BLOTSLi  BBBTRANB. 

JVLSS    AX7DSMABB,  Snooesseor. 


WINTERS    ABROAD. 

By  B.  N.  Otteb,  M.A.  Inieuded 
for  the  use  of  Ibyi^s.  Citown 
8vo.  7s,  ed. 

John  Mubbat,  Albemarle  Street. 


TURIN. 


fiRAHD   HOTEL  DE  L'EUROPE. 

PBOPBIET0R8— 

Messrs.  BORGO  afld  GAGLIAEDL 

Situatecl  Place  de  OH&teaii,  opposite  tlie 

King^iS  Palaoe. 

(Fimminiges  from  the  BmkoamSkiiionA  > 

THIS  unriTaled  And  admirably-oondiicted  Hotel  reoommefid^  iMf  to 
the  notioe  of  English  travellers.  The  Hotel  had'  been  entirdyand 
newly  decorated  with  handsome  paintings  by  the  best  modem  painters,  and 
there  is  a  patent  hydrauHo  I^ft  fi>r  6  f  ertons  aft  the  semoe'  of  all  yisitorB. 

■ — ■ ■ — » 

EXCELLENT  TABLE   D'H&TE  AT  6  O'CLOCK. 

BATHS    IN    THE    HOTEL. 


Interpreters  ^peakinf^  aU  the  Ewropean  Languages. 

Charges  Moderate.    The  Times  Newspaper.    An  Omnibus 
from  ^hB  Hotel  will  be  found  at  every  7ra|^• 

TURIN. 

GRAND     HdTEL     LXGURJE, 

Bodoni  Square,  and  Andrea  Dpria  and  Charles  Albert  Stneefs. 

MAGNIFIPSNT»  Ttry  good  and  dotafortaUe.  Reilkior^O  to  a*  lurge  vnd  sumptuous 
Palaoe,  expressly  built.  First-Olass  Family  Hotel.  The  only  one  of  Turin  isolated 
in  a  large  beautiful  square,  splendidly  exposed  to  tb^  south.  Hlfrbly  patronised  by  the 
best  IBf^^  and,  Atterifisu  AomUes.  ALKMQ  O-UIDx,  Proprietor. 


?j-^»' 


1883. 


MUfiEAY'S  HAI^DBOOK  ADVfiRTISSa 


65 


Mamta 


Kept  hu  Mr.  CARLOS  OANTOVA  d*HT08. 

THIS  Fint-rate  BBtablishment,  dtoated  on  the  ViUarrosa  SqiiAre,  No.  0,  has  been  entirely  re-fnmlsbed 
with  every  modeiii  comfort. a]|d  loktarj,  and  now  oflhn  thb  moAt  deslMble  raiidenoe  to  Bnglish 
Travellen  viiiting  this  Fine  Climate.  SoitBe  «f  ApaHmenti  for  Famlliee  tnaa^iat  lowest  prioee  to  flO  it.  a 
day.  EseaUent  OmMm  and  good  Aiteiidanoa  Foreign  Newspipera.  Btwlisl^  JTitDeh,  and  Italian  qwkoL 
Bubs,  to.  The  Hotel  is  close  by  the  Poet  Offloe,  the  Theatras,  and  the  best  iSromenades.  Board  and 
Lod^ng,  with  Light  and  Serrioe  inolnded,  SO  Beaux  per  day  for  fflngle  Travellers ;  bat  with  Bitting  BoooM 
for  Familiesi  ttom  60,  80  to  100  Baals  per  day.  . 

VARESE.   (Lombardy.) 

GRAND  HOTEL  VARESE. 

Id  direct  coopiTiiuCation  by  Ball  with 
MILJiN^   LAKE   MAGGIOBE,    COMO,    and    LUdA^O.' 

FmST-OLASS  HOTEL,   sDrrounded  with  an   extensive  GABDEN 
and  PARK,  sltaated  in  the  best  and  healthiest  part  of  LombardykrlBlft  feet  above  the 
Sea,  commanding  a  most  extendye  view  of  the  Alps,  Monte  Rosa  Ghabis,  and  containing 

SOO    Rooni^    And    Saloons. 

PRNSIOH.   BatfaBoneichioar.  SngUshCbitfch.  llngUsh  Pbysiciicp  tttach^  to.tfae  Hotel. 

E.   lEABINI,   DCanager. 


T 


VENICE. 


«IRAND  HOTEL  D'lTALIE, 

BAUER    GRUNWALD. 

FIEST-CLASS  HOTEL,  near  St.  Mark's  Square,  on  the 
Grand  Oimal,  facing  tiie  Chorch  of  St.  Maria  della  Salute. 
Fresh  and  Salt  Water  Baths  ready  at  all  hours. 

(kMirffEted  fpr  Us  **  Gfnd  BestajrcuU**  and  Viefma  Beer. 

JULKS  ORUNWALD,  Proprietor. 
VENICE. 


GRANi)   HOTEL  DE  L'EUROPE. 

QLD-ESTABLISHED    FIEST-CLASS  HOTEL,  mtuated 
on  the  Grand  Canal.    Large  and  small  Apartments  for  Families  and 
Gtotlemen.    Visitors  will  find  this  Hotel  very  comfortable,  well-sitnated, 
and  reasoniable  in  its  Ohaiges. 

Marseille    BRO^-  Proprietors. 

.    VERONA. 

GRAND  h6TEL  DE  LONDRES. 

FORMBRLT  BOTEL  DE  LA  TOUR  DE  LOKDRBS.       A.  CBRESAi  New  Proprietor. 

THBlargaitaiidfliMst  Hotel  tn  Ter(ma,iMar  tha  Bottutn  AJtipfaltheatre.  Bi^isl^  COumb  Sowiow  in  the 
Hotel.    Most  central  posittoi,    Qreat  comfoit^    AH  Languages  spok^T^mdras  to  aafl  from  the 
Stotlons:   HiglilyteooinnMndea.  .  ^      • 

0.  0AY£8TB.I,  .Manager. 


66  Uvs.Rkt'S  BAKi)B0OK  ADVEATISEtL  May, 


VIENNA. 


KASMTHNEBBIMO  No.  9, 

SITIJAT^Df  o»  the  modt  elegant  and  frequented  Square  of 
•  the  City. '  Miree  hnndred  Booms,  from  1  florin  npwaids. 
ApartmeiiLts,  from  6  florins  upwards.  Beautiful  Dining 
Saloon,  .Bestaurant  Saloons,  Conversation,  Smoking,  and 
Beading  Booms. 

BATHS  &  TELEGRAPH  OFFICE  IN  THE  HOUSE. 

Lifts  for  Gommiiiiicatioii  with  each  Storey. 

DINItERS^  aUPPEES  A  LA  CABTK       TABLE  D^EtrS. 
OMNIBin9£|B    AT    THE    BATLWAY    OTATZOira 

VIENNA. 

J.    &   L.    LOBMEYR, 

GLASS   MANUFAOTUBEBS, 

Appointed  Purveyors  to  the  Imperial  Court  of  Austria, 

No.  13,  EABKTHKEHSTBASSE. 

The  mo$i  jBXimaive  EstMiehment  for  Bohemiam.  CrysUd^  Farusy 

Olcus,  a/nd  Chcmdeliers, 

Eyery  variety  of  Glass  for  Household  iise»  Omament,  and  in  Art 
Workmanship.  Specialities  in  Engraved  Glass  and  Looking-Glasses. 
Chandeliers,  Gandelabras,  in  Crystal  and  Bron2se. 

IiABiSE    SHOW-BOOMS    UPSTAIBS. 

The  prices  are  fixed,  and  are  very  moderate. — English  is  spoken. 

Their  Correspondents  in  England,  Messrs.  J.  A  B.  MHDbaokbn,  No.  88, 
Queen  Street,  Cannon  Street,  E.G.,  London^  -vrill  transmit  all  orders  with 
the  greatest  care  and  attention.  I 


B.»maiaat. 


HUBfiirs  HANIAOOK  ADTKRTISER. 


/I  BAND  HOTEL  DBS  AMBA^SASEUBS,  Sitnated  in  the  Fuk.- 

VT    ^iliHMBbLAHBtHoultoHwtbBAmln  Om  lovn.    It  ii  idiihivA  Ln  Uw  lui*  tfjia  m  tb*  !■» 

I>nnliil  ■«■.      ^cMTiriri  pilnc  turn  (Jl  (>p«lm3u»a*  jiXUt  mmmM  iS^-  Bualll 
Tnliu,  'rln  Houi  Is  Dpn  Iran  tba  IMi  of  ipilT  PmlmJ  WwnffoaMi  lajotolHt  aJSiim. 

SOUBBATT-PLAOB,  Promrlator. 


VI  CHY. 

GRAND    HOTEL   DU   PARC. 

THE  LARGEST  AND  MOST  COMFORTABLE  IN  VICHY. 

A  FIRST-CLASS  HOTEL,   sitiuted  in  the  Puk,  faoing  the  Batha, 
Spring!,  and  Caaino. 

PHIVATC  PAVim/t'FOII  FAMILIES. 
OERMOT,  Proprietor. 


VILLENEUVE,  LAKE  LEMAN. 

h:6tb3:j  byeon. 

ONE  of  the  fineet  Eatabliabinents,  with  a  large  Park  and 
Forest,  Lawn  Tennis  and  Cricket  Onrand.    Tcrma  for  a 
long  stay  &om  6  to  10  frs.  per  day. 


68 


KOBBArS  BAKOBOOK  AOTIBTISIB; 


af«^. 


VEVEY. 

HOTEL  MONKET  AM)  TROIS 


OOURONNES. 


F.  SCHOTT. 


WIESBADEN. 

HOTEL  ET  BAINS  DE  NASSAU. 

(KA88AU1B  H(»r) 

Messrs.   OOSTZ   BBOTHEBS,   Proprietors. 

FIEIST-CLASS  HOTEL  of  old  and   good  repntf^ion,  opposite    the 
Carhaus,  Golonnades,  Parkfl,  and  next  the  l^e&tre.     Splendid  Dining  and  Bea^i^f 
Booms.    Table  d'Hdte  at  One  and  Five  o'clock.    Mineral  Bathg  of  Own  Hot  Spring. 

h6tEL   villa   NASSAU. 

Annexe  of  the  Horl  db  Nassau.       Proprietors  also  Messrs.  Gortz  Bbothsbs. 

FINEST  FAHILT  HOT^EL  in  Town,  wjth  al}  Modem  Comfort,  in 
beautiful  situation  next  the  Hot  Springs,  Theatre,  Curhane,  Colonnades,  etc' 

W.  ZAId,  WIESBADEN.  Proprietor. 

''FOUR  SEASONS"  (Vler  Jabreszeiten)    HOTEL. 

T^HIS  Firat-Class  Honse  enjoys  the  finest  position  in  the  Great  Sqnare, 
-*•  fftdias  the  Knnasl,  the  Park,  aad  being  dtee  to  the  Springs.  Numerous  Saloons  wiUi 
BAlcontes  and  comfortable  Sleeping  Booms.  Fine  Dining  and  Assembly  Booms.  Laige 
Mineral  Bathing  Establishment.    Chygee  Mod^r%te« 

WIE8BADEN.-ROSE  HOTEL  AND. BATH  HOUSE. 

QPlBNblD'First-Olass  Establishment  oloie  tothe  CursaiA,  qbp^slte  the 
O  Trinkhalle,  and  a4)oining  the  Ftomenade.  No  other  Hotel  ezeept  this*  is  sarronnded 
by  a  Gardoi  of  its  owq,  or  snppUed  with  Baths  dlreot  iron  the  hoi  springs  (Kochbmnnen). 
Quiet  and  -fliiy  sitnaitioa.  with  Knglisb  comfort  and  reasonable  Charges.  Utawisg.  Beading, 
and  Sknol^g  Booms,  and  Billiard  Boom,  ^containinR  a  foll-aized  Billiard  Table.  Table 
(fHOte  at  One  and  five  o'clodk.    Lawn  Tennis  Grounds.  v 

HAEFFNEB  FBBBES,  Proprietoya. 

'  WURZaURQ. 

KRONPRINZ     HOTEL, 

HOKOTJBED  by  the  preflenoe  of  His  Imperial  Majesty  the  Emperor 
of  Germany,  on  the  oeoaslon  of  his  recent  visit  to  this  Town.  This  First-Class  Hotel 
is  particularly  recommended  for  its  Large  and  Airy  Apartments^  haying  the  finest  situation 
near  the  Sution,  facing  the  Palace,  and  aA^oining  a  fine  Garden.  Beading  Booms.  OoHL  and 
Warm  Baths,  &c.    Moderate  Charges. 

J.  AJnCON. 


ZARAGOZA,  SPAIN. 

Grand  Hdtel  de  TEurope. 

jSaaeeihnt  Cooking  and  ModenU 
Charges. 

VIUDA  DE  ZOPPETTI  Y  HUGS, 

Proprietors. 


The  Art  of  Dining; 

or/(^A8TBOK0Vr  AND  ftASTEOirOMIBl. 

By  A.  HATWARD. 

New  Edition,  post  8to.,  2s. 

John  Mubkay,  Albemarle  Street. 


rpHE  PABT?HENON.  '*An  Essay  on  the  mode  in  ^hi^h  Light  was 
introdv^ed  Into  Greek  onL^msii'TempleB.   fiy  Jambs  Fbboussgn.    4to.,  2ls. 

John  Mubbay,  Albemarle  Street. 


. 


isas.  MVRKArS  HANDBOOK  ADYSMiaBB.  60 


HOTEL    k  L  U  M  P  P, 

Mr.  W,  ELUICPP,  JPftOBBiBTOB. 


THIS  Fint-ClaM  Hotel,  oontaining  45  Saloons  and  235  Bed  Rooms,  with  a  separate 
Break^  an^'  ii«w  talJte  «•<)  ^^Tersftk»  Booms,  as  weU  as  a  Smoking 
Saloon,  and  a  Tery  eztensiT^  )M).d  «le|^  Dining  fipgm ;  an  artifidal  Garden  over  the 
river ;  is  beautifiilly  sitaated  in  connection  with  tiie  old  and  new  Bath  Buildings 
and  Conversation  House,  and  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  Promenade  and  the 
Kew  Colonnade.  It  is  oelebrated  foi;  its  elegant  and  comfortable  apartments,  good 
Ouitine  and  Cellar,  and  deserves  its  widespread  reputation  as  an  excellent  Hotel. 
Table  d'Hdte  at  One  and  Five  o'do«l|.  Bhreaktasts  and  Suppers  it  la  carte. 
Exchange  Office.  Coirespondent  of  the  principal  Banking-houses  of  London  for 
th«  payment  of  Cinfular  Kbtis  and  Letters  of  Credit.  OmnHmsei  of  tbo  Hotel  to 
and  fivm  each  Tndh.  -Elevators  to  every  floor.  Pise  Pr^Nito  Cafriages  when 
requested.    Warm  and  Cold  Baths  in  the  Hotel. 


EXOELLSNT    ACCOMMODATION. 


ZURICH. 


■^i*- 


HOTEL  ZURICHERHOF 

AU  LAC. 

MAGNIFICENT  position,  with  view  on  the  Lake  and 
MountaiBB,  close  to  the  National  Exhibition  of  Fine  Arts,  the  Town 
Hall,  and  the  new  Bridge  of  the  Quai  and  the  landing-place  of  the 
Steamboats.    Comfort  of  the  first  order. 

19*  Omn&ms  at  the  Station^  gratis. 

IiB.  IiANQ,  Proprietor. 

ZUAICH* 

SWISS    NATIONAL    EXHIBITION, 

MAY— SEPTEMBER, 

Close  to  Station.  ZU  RICH.  80,  Rue  de  la  Qare. 

WANNER'S  h6tEL  GARNI.  Sitaated  upon  the  finest  Square  of 
the  Town.  Bedrooms,  oomforfably  furnished  with  exoellent  beds,  ttom  fr.  1*60  to 
tn.  2-60  per  day.  Apartments  for  Families.  The  same  comfort  as  in  a  First-Glass  Hotel. 
Reduced  prices  for  a  long  stay,  with  or  without  Board.  B«staurant  at  moderate  prices  on 
same  Floor.    German  Bear  on  dvapgbt.    Perter  at  the  Station. 

H.  WAKHEB.  Proprietor. 


70  M17UAr9  RAimBOOK  Ml>n«TISm.  Mm% 


TH£  HANDBOQIL  CO^TIONABY. 


Now  readpf  a  tmaU  Otlong  Volume^  16mo.,  6«.  howadt 
A  FOEtAGTlOAL  AND  GONYABSATldNAt.     1    ■ 

DICTIONARY  OF  THE   ENGLISH,  fRENGH,  AND 

GERMAN  UNGUAGE8. 

FOR  TEE  USE  OF  TRAVELLERS  AND  STUDENTS. 

By  OEOBGE  V.  CHAMBBR8,  F.B.A.B., 

Of  the  Imer  Temple,  Barrirter-fli-Ltw. 

Sixteenth  Edition.    Foap.    8«.  Od. 

MURRAY'S 

HANDBOOK    OF   TRAVEL    TALK. 

DIALOGUES -QUESTIONS -VOCABULARIES. 

IN   ENGLISH,  GERMAN,  F*RENCH,   ANl)   ITALIAN. 
Prepared  evpreMly/or  J2^Ii«/i  SVutwUetv  ^broyi^,  And  foreiffnen  VUiting  England, 

The  ''Handbook  of  Travel  Talk'*'  is  not  a  reprint  of  old  manuals  of 
conversatian  "  drawn  xsp  towards  ih&  end  of  the  litst  centuiy/'  bdt  a 
modem  traveller's  phrase  bo(£k,  compiled  expressly  to  meet  the  wants  of 
the  present  day.  Ample  spaoe  is  given  to  sncn  matters  as  Bailway 
(Taking  Tickets— In  the  Train— The  Statiob,  &o.),  Post  Office,  Telegraph, 
Luggage  Office,  and  to  the.  multitude  of  technical  words  and  phrases 
which  the  progress  of  modern  travel  hss  developed. 

During  the  Fifteen  Editions  which  it  has  passed  through,  it  has 
undergone  constant  improvement;  the  consequeboe  is,  that  it  contains 
many  words  of  modem  invention  not  to  be  found  in  dictionaries. 

Fifth  Edition,  with  Woodcate.  small  8vo.    U.  6(1. 

THE  ART  OF  TRAVSL;  or,  Hints  on  the  Shifts  and 
Contrivances  available  in  Wild  Countries.  Bv.  Fraikss  GuUiToar, 
F.B.G.8.,  Author  of  ^«  The  Explorer  in  South  Africa." ' 

•*....  The  soldier  fSiould  5e  Ukught  aU.  »uck  practicaJL  expedientt  and  their  pkUo- 
9ophyf  oM  laid  down  in  Mr.  Oaltom'«  ussful  livtls  book."— Minute  ly  the  UUe  Sir 
Jaxks  Outram. 

*<  Mr.  Galton  pablishes  this  little  yolmne  fi>r  the  tise  of  tonrtste  who  travel  ftr  and 
*  rou|;h  it.'    It  would  also  put  some  useful  Ideas  into  the  heads  of  men  who  stay  at  home.'* 

*'  A  handbook  (uoh  as  this  might  prove  a  fiijend  in  need  even  to  an  old  traveller,  white 
to  a  yoang  one  who  Intends  to  ventoie  heyoud  railways  it  most  be  invaluable."— >Jf&n4Bum. 


JOHN  MURRAY,  ALBEMARtfi  STREET. 


1883.  HITERArS  llASDBOOiK.  ADYERTISSR.  71 

KOW  TO  LEARK   MObERN   LANGUAGES. 


'  The  success  attending  Dr.  Wm.  Smith's  •*  Principia  Latika  **  and  "  IwrriA 
GRiECA,"  which  practical  teachers  hare  fonnd  the  easiest  books  for  learning 
Latin  and  Oreeky  has  led  to  the  ajmlication  of  the  same  method  to  the  French, 
German,  and  Italian  Langnages.  There  is  an  obvious  advantage  in  a  beginner 
learning  a  new  hmgwrge  on  the^  pl^  with  which  ke  is  already  familiar. 
These  books  combine  tht  advantage  of  the  older  and  more  modern  methods  of 
instractien. 

FRENCH     COURSE. 

Edited  by  Dr.  Wm.  Smith. 
FRENCH  PRINCIPIA,  Part  I.    A  First  French  Conrse, 

oootaining  Orunmor,  Delectus,  Exercises,  Vocabnlarles,  &c.    12mo.    3«.  M. 

APPENDIX    TO    FRENCH    PRINCIPIA,    Part    I. 

Oonteining  A/dditionftl  Exercises,  with  Examination  Papers.    l2mo.    2t.  6d. 

FRENCH    PRINCIPIA,    Part  II.      A  Beading  Book, 

containing  Fables,  Stories,  and  Anecdotes,  Natural  History,  and  Scenes  from  the 
History  or  FAoce. ,  With  Grammatical  Questions,  Notes,  and  Oopions  Etymological 
Dictionary.    12mo.    4m.  M. 

THE   STUDENT'S  FRENCH  GRAMMAR:   a  Frac- 

Ucal  and  Hiafevrical  Grammar  of  the  French  Laagnage.  By  C.  Hbsoh-Wall.  With 
Introduction  by  M.  Lnrrai.    Post  8yo.    Y<.  6<l. 

A    SMALLER    GRAMMAR    OF    THE    FRENCH 

LANGUAGE.    Alvidge4  from  the  above.    12mo.    3s,  $d, 

GERMAN     COURSE. 

Edited  by  Dr.  Wm.  Smith. 
GERMAN     PRINCIPIA,    Part    L      A  First   German 

Course,  containing  a  Grammar,  Delectus,  Exercises,  Vocabularies,  Ac.   lamo.   8s.  6d. 

GERIIAN  PRINCXFIA,  Part  n.      A   Bei^Ung  Book, 

contotofng  FablK  Stories,  aibd  Anecdotes,  Nainval  History,  and  Soenes  from  the 
History  of  Germany.  With  Grammatical  Questions,  Notes,  and  Dictionary. 
12mo.    3«.  9d. 

PRACTICAL  GERMAN  GRAMMAR.    With  a  Sketch 

of  the.  Hittofleal  Development  of  the  Langnage  and  its  Principal  Dialects.  Post 
8vo.    3s,  6d. 

ITALIAN     COURSE. 

Edited  by  Dr.  Wm.  Smitb. 
ITALIAN  PRINCIPIA,  Part  I.    A  First  Italian  Course, 

oontainipg  a  Gteammai,  Delectus,  Exwoise  Book,  with  Vocabularies,  and  Materials 
tor  Italten  Comrenation.    ilf  Signor  Ricci.    lamo.    St.  M. 

ITALIAN    PRINCIPIA,    Part   n.      A    First   IteUan 

Beading  Book,  containing  Fables,  Anecdotes.  History,  and  Passages  fiwu  the  best 
Italian  Authors,  with  Grammatical  Questions,  Notes,  and  a  coploas  Etymotoe^cal 
Dictionary.    l2mo.    39. 6d. 


JOHN  MUfiBAT,  ALBEHABLE  STBEET. 


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