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HANDBOOK FOE TEAVELLEES
IN
RUSSIA,
POLAND, AND FINLAND.
Digitized by VjOOQLC
Digitized by VjOOQLC
HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS '
IN
RUSSIA,
POLAND, AND FINLAND.
• ;A5.:i- ■•■■•■. .^■-s-
SECOND BEVISED EDITION.
WITH MAP AND PLANS.
LONDON:
JOHN MUEBAY, ALBEMABLE STBEET.
PARIS: A. W. GAUGNANl b CO. ; AKD A. XAVIER, 22, RUE DE LA BANQUE.
ST. PETERSBURG: Mbs. WATKIKS. NEW YORK: WaET.
1868.
liU»*«^»«»l«««<.««r«i^"^^"'^^°Sle
TH6 ENGLISH EDITIONS OF MUBRAY'S HANDBOOKS MAT BE OBTAINED OF THE
FOLLOWING AGENTS : — J? ; ^\^ f .
Germany^ HoUandy and Belgium, /v/ >
AIX-LA. 1
CHAPRLLR /
I. A. MATER.
KISSINGEN . C. JUGEL.
LEIPZIG . BR0CKHAU8.-DURR.
AMSTERDAM .
J. MULLER.~W. KIRBERGER.
LUXEMBOURG BOCK.
ANTWERP .
MAX. KORNICKER.
MANNHEIM . ARTARIA A FONTAINE.^
BADEN.BADEN
D. R. MARX.
LOFFLBR.— ROTTER.
BERLIN .
ASHER.
BRUSSELS
MUQUARDT.— KIES8LING
--ANSTALT.^1. PALM.
ft CO.
NURNBBRO • SCHRAG.— ZEISER.
CARLSRUHE .
A. BIELEFELD.
PEST • • HARTLEBEN.~G.HECKBNA8T.
COLOGNE. .
GUEVEN.— NELTE A CO.
— OSTERLAMM.— RATH .
DRESDEN .
ARNOLD.
PRAGUE . . CALVE.
FRANKFURT .
C. JUGEL.
ROTTERDAM . KRAMERS.-PErRL
GRATZ . .
LEUSCHNER ft LUBENSKT.
STUTTGART . P. NEFF.
THE HAGUE .
NIJHOFF A CO.
TRIESTE . . MUNSTER.-COEN.
HAMBURG .
MAUKE. SOHNE.
VIENNA . • C. GEROLD.-BRAUMtTLLEK.
HEIDELBERG.
MOUR.
wibsbaden ».KREIDEL.
Switzerland.
BASLE . .
H. GEORG.-H. AMBERGER.
NEUCHATEL . 0ER8TER.
BERNE • •
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SCHAFFHAUSBN HURTER.
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SOLEURE. • JENT.
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CHERBULIEZ.-MONROE.-.
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GHISLEITY.
H. F. LEUTHOLD, POST-
LAUSANNE .
T. ROCSSY.
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PERUGIA. . VINCENZ. BARTELLI.
LEGHORN
BEUF.
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ROME . . SPITHOVER— PIALE.-
MONALDINI.
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F. BARON.
SIENA . • ONORATO PORRI.
MANTUA . .
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ARTARIA. - DUHOLARD
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FR"teRES.-G. BRIGOLA.
L. RONCHI.
VINCENZI A ROSSI.
DORANT. - DUFRESNE.
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MEINERS.
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MULH0U8E . RISLER.
AVRANCUES .
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VELLOT ET COMP.
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BOUKDIGNON.— FOUCHBR.—
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Mmb. buys.
TOULON . . MONGE ET VILLAMUS.
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TOULOUSE . GIMET A COTELLE
LYONS . •
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TOURS • . GEORGET.
ME'RA.
TROYES . . LALOY.~DUFEY ROBERT.
MARSEILLES .
CAMOIN FRERES.-LE
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Spain and
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LISBON <• .
MATT. LEWTAS.
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Malta.
Imiam Islands.
, jTized Dy v_T
icniB.
CORFU . J. W. TAYLOR.
WICK. ATHENS . A. NA8T.
PEEFACE.
Tee present Handbook for Bnssia, Poland, and Finland will be
fonnd to vary materially from the edition corrected in 1849.
The Bussian empire has since passed through a memorable
struggle on the shores of the Black Sea, and the Emperor Nicholas
has been succeeded by Alexander II., the Emancipator. The
changes evolved by Ihese two events have been so much in
favour of travellers, and have made Bussia a country so highly
interesting to those who study the political progress of nations
and the consequent increase of their well-being, that a new
edition of the Handbook has become a matter of urgent necessity.
Becent travellers ii^ Bussia will attest that there is now no
country on the Continent where foreigners are more free from
the vexatious proceedings of custom-house and police officers.
The passport-system of Bussia, once so strictly enforced, at
present only demands that the traveller should be provided with
a national passport bearing the visa that will be readily given by
any Bussian diplomatic or consular authority ; and even during
his residence and his travels within the empire the stranger is
subject to no farther police regulations than the exhibition of
his passport at the hotel or house where he resides. He may
converse on politics as freely as in his own country, and study
the social condition of the empire in all its interesting phases of
transition without let or hindrance, and without any fear of the
liabilities described by writers on Bussia ten years ago.
The introduction of railways is among the most important
changes that the traveller will find in Bussia. The fact is not
sufficiently known or appreciated that the journey to St. Peters-
burg may be performed throughout the entire distance by rail
in three and a half to four days. Nor is there any longer the
necessity of posting through a country of which the language to
a Western traveller is incomprehensible, and of which the roads
were, perhaps, the worst in Europe. A railway connects Moscow
Digitized Dy v^vgv^v iv^
VI PREFACE.
with St. Petersburg ; and express-trains convey the European
to meet the Asiatic at the fair of Nijni-Novgorod. A few other
short lines already run between places of commercial and histo-
rical interest, and are described in this work ; many others are
either commenced or projected. The great trunk line in course of
construction between Moscow and the Southern, most productive
provinces of Bussia, and the line that will unite it with the Baltic
Provinces by way of Witepsk, will open several new routes of
much importance. There is no doubt that the complete intersection
of the empire by railroads will attract, in addition to the travel-
lers for pleasure and instruction, numerous commercial and
financial agents, who will eagerly seek their profit in developing
the resources of such a new and fertile country. The adoption
of a liberal tariff, obviously impending in the interest both of
the Bussian people and of the Imperial revenue, will still further
promote individual and commercial intercourse with England,
to the immeasurable advantage of the agricultural interest of the
one country, and the manufacturing industry of the other.
A Handbook for such a vast empire as Bussia must neces-
sarily be a compilation; and the text of 1849 having been almost
entirely abandoned, the difficulty and tediousness of preparing
this edition have been much aggravated by the want of recent
guide-books for St. Petersburg and Moscow even in the Bussian
language. For the new materials which constitute the present
edition I am indebted to many kind contributors. Mr. J. Savile
Lumley, Secretary of Embassy, has given the Handbook the
advantage of his artistic knowledge in the description of the
Picture Galleries of the Hermitage. To the Diiectors and
Curators of the Hermitage I owe much assistance in pre-
paring the guide to the Sculpture Gallery and Painted Vases,
the index to its Art collections, and the catalogue of the prin-
cipal objects in the Museum of Greek Antiquities from Kertch.
The Boute through the Crimea is by Mr. Nicholas Bowe, who
visited it in 1864. Mr. Sutherland Edwards, whose works on
Bussia and Poland are well known for their correctness, has
supplied the Historical Notice on Poland; while Mr. B. G.
Watson, late Attache to H.M.'s Legation at Teheran, has afforded
the greater part of the information contained in the Boutes to
Digitized Dy vJV.'Vv'Vlv^
PEEPACE. vii
Persia. My grateful acknowledgments are also due to several
other literary coadjutors at St. Petersburg and Moscow; and
beyond all this assistance I have consulted many Eussian works
descriptive of local interests and curiosities. The remainder
is tiie result of personal travel and observation diiring a resi-
dence of many years in Kussia.
T. MicHELL, F.R.G.S.,
Attache to Her Majesty* 8 Ernbassy at
the Court of Bussia,
London, May, 1865,
PEEFACE TO SECOND NEW EDITION.
The exhaustion of the previous editions affords an opportunity
of msiking considerable additions to the Handbook for Eussia,
and of altering such parts of it as were no longer applicable
to existing circumstances. At the same time, the sudden and
rapid extension of railways in Eussia, particularly in the more
Southern parts of the Empire, renders it impossible to present to
the public a work which shall give a faultless description of the
several routes, liable as they are to almost daily modifications.
In the present edition the traveller will, however, fiind more
detailed reference to the History of Eussia in connection with
the towns through which the lines in construction or already
completed will enable him to pass, as well as a less imperfect
sketch of the routes through the Crimea.
In re-arranging and amplifying these, no unsparing use has
been madB of Mr. H. D. Seymour's excellent work, ' Eussia on
the Shores of the Black Sea.'
It is also right to acknowledge that the ' Geographical
Dictionary of Eussia,' edited by Mr. P. Semenoff, Director of
the Statistical Department of the Imperial Home Office, has
contributed much useful information.
T. M.
St. Petersburg, July, 1868.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
( viii )
CONTENTS.
Sect. L— EUSSIA.
iNTBCTDirCnON
Pagel
ROUTES.
[The names of places are printed In itaiUes only in those routes where the places are deteribed]
ROUTE PAGE
1. London to St, Peter^rg^ over-
land, yiH Berlin, Kowno^
WtVna, and Ps*o/ 65
2. London to St. Peteraburg, by
Sea, via Crows^oc?* 157
3. London to St. Petersburg, vift
Archangel 157
4. Berlin to Reoal, by Riga, Dct'
paty&c 163
5. St. Petersburg to Novgorod the
Great 173
ROUTE PAGE
6. St. Petersburg to ifoaoow .. 176
7. Moscow to the TroUsa Monaa~
tery (Troitskaya - Ser^eva
Lavra) 217
8. Moscow to Nijni Novgorod, with
branch line to Shuya and Ivan-
ovo, and excursion up the Oka
to Murom, Elatma, and Ka-
simof 220
9. Volga: Tver to -45<ra*Aa» .. 228
Sect. n.--SOUTH EUSSIA AND CBIMEA, CAUCASUS
AND SIBEEIA.
Introduction Page 235
ROUTE PAGE
10. Berlin or Vienna to Odessa, by
Lembeig, Czemowitz, and Eish-
enef 236
11. Berlin or Vienna to Odessa, by
Lemberg, Brody, Volochisk,
Bar, and Balta 237
12. Riga or St. Petersburg to Odessa,
by Diinaburg, Witehsk, Orel,
and Kief—ihe South of
Russia 238
13. Moscow to Odessa, by Ttila,
Orel, Kursk, Kharkoff, Pol-
tava, KremenchvJi, Elizavet'
grad, and Balta 253
14. Moscow to Voronej, by Biazan,
Biajsk, and Kozlof, Branch
lines to Morshansk and Elets 264
15. St Petersburg, Moscow, or Riga,
to Taganrog and Rostof (Sea
of Azof), by Kharkof .. ..270
ROUTE PAGE
16. Odessa to the Crimea overland,
by ^i^ofo^ and JE^erson .. 273
17. Odessa to the Crimea by sea:
Eupatoria to Kertch, and ex-
cursions through the Crimea,, 277
Eertch to Tsaritsin on the Volga,
hjBostof 317
Rostof to ^ooocAtfr^osA .. ..318
London to Tifiis, by Constanti-
nople — ^The Caucasus .. .. 319
21. Tiflis to Teheran, hj Ararat and
Tabreez 323
Tiflis to Teheran, by Baku or
Lenkoran, and Resht or Astra-
bad, on the Caspian .. .. 325
Lenkoran to Teheran, by land,
ri§LBesht 326
London to Persia, by way of St.
Petersburg 328
25. London to Pekin, vift St. Peters-
borg, Kiakhta, and Mongolia 328
18.
19.
20.
22,
23.
24,
( ix )
Sbot. IIL— POLAND.
Introduction Page 333
ROUTES.
BOUTE PAGE
34. Berlin to Warsaw, Ti& Brom-
berg and Thorn 351
35. St. Petersburg to Warsaw, viA
Wilna 360
36. Vienna to Warsaw .. ;. .. 361
37. Warsaw to Lodz 362
38. Warsaw to Sandomir, up the
• Vistula .. ' ., .. .. .. 362
39. Warsaw to Prussian Frontier,
down the Vistula ' . . .... 362
BOUTE PAGE
40. Warsaw to Cracow, Yi& Radom
mdKieltse 363
41. Warsaw to Kovogeorgieysk .. 364
42. Warsaw to St. Petersburg, via
Pultuskf Ostrolenka^ and
Eowno 364
43. Warsaw to Moscow, vift Brest-
' Litevski and Bobruisk . . . . 364
44. Warsaw to Kief, vift Brest . . 365
45. Warsaw to Lemberg, yil Lvhlin 366
Sbot. IV.— FINLAND.
iNTBODUCrnON 369
ROUTE.
55. Stockholm to Wyhorg, by Abo and ITelsmgfors
385
Index
393
Digitized by VjOOQLC
( X )
PLANS.
PAGE
St. Pbteesbdbq ., .. to face 71
PlOFUBE GaLLEBIBS AT THE HEBMITAaB 88
Mofioow 180,181
OaTHBDBAL OF THE AfiSUHFTION AT MOSOOW 192
TRAYELLma AND Glue Map OS* BuBSiA at ike end.
Digitized by VjOOQLC
HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS
IN
EUSSIA, POLAND, AND FINLAND.
SECTION L— RUSSIA.
INTEODUCTION.
PAGE
1. Historical Notice - - - 1
2. Stotistics - - - - 30
3. Language - - - - 32
4. Literature - - - - 39
5. Measures, Weights, and Coins - 44
6. Passport Regulations - - 51
7. Custom-houses - - - 51
8. Posting 52
PAGE
9. Cuisine and Restaurants - - 53
10. Climate, Clothing, &c. - - 56
11. Sanitary Peculiaiities - - 57
12. Sport 58
13. Society 62
14. Seasons for Travelling - - 63
15. Railways and Principal Routes - 64
1. — Historical Notice.
The space allotted to this sketch being sufficient only to furnish the
traveller with a few historical memoranda of the remarkable events in
Russian history and of the most celebrated sovereigns who have swayed the
destinies of that empire, renders it impossible to give any descriptive details,
more particularly of those monarchs who lived nearer to our own times, and
who have figured conspicuously in European politics. The more salient
and important points will, therefore, alone be mentioned. Further historical
data will be found scattered through this Handbook.
History and tradition concur in showing that Europe was peopled by
three great families of the human race, who emigrated westward, at distinct
periods ; the last of these migrations was that of the Slavonians, who esta-
blished themselves on the Don about 400 years before Christ. In the days
of Herodotus their mode of life was exceedingly rude and barbarous ; they
^tfMiCt— 1868. Digitized DyVJV^v^pAv^
2 1. — Sistorical Notice. Sect. I.
had no houses, and lived a nomadic and pastoral life, journeying from one
verdant spot to another, and stopping at each only so long as they found
sufficient pasture for their flocks and herds. Like all the other aboriginal
races of Europe, the Slavonians dwelt together in more or less numerous
colonies governed by elected or hereditary Elders of a patriarchal type.
They held their councils of wise men, who administered Laws very similar
to those of the Germanic races. Their principal occupations were the
rearing of cattle, the chase and the management of bees, while their chief
characteristics seem to have been in a degree analogous to those of their
descendants, the modem Russians : — they were hospitable, courageous, good-
humoured, contented, and immoderately fond of spirituous liquors ; like
most barbarous nations, however, the courage of the Slaves frequently
degenerated into cruelty, and murder was no uncommon crime amongst
them. The law of vengeance or retaliation was acted upon until the intro-
duction of the penalties or compensation in money known as weregeld in
German, and vira in Slavonian. Their religion was idolatrous, and their
mode of worship resembled the gross and degraded forms of the ancient
Druids ; they not only offered up their prisoners as a holocaust to their
chief deity, Perune, the Zeus of the Greeks and the Jupiter of the Romans,
but would sometimes even immolate their own children to his honour.
It was not till the fifth century that the wild Slavonians, who had over-
run a large portion of European Russia, foimded any remarkable settle-
ments ; these were Novgorod, on the Ilmen, and Kief, or Kiow, on the
Dnieper ; where they afterwards became distinguished for their commerce,
their riches, and incipient civilization. The tribal groups of the North
began, about the middle of the 9th century, to feel a want of unity and of a
system of government better adapted to the civilization which their inter-
course with the Germans and the Greeks was introducing. Embroiled in
dissensions, and subject on the S.E. to the exactions of Asiatic races
encamped on the Volga and the Don, and on the N.W. to the depredations
of the sea-kings, the Slavonians, according to an old chronicle, sent a depu-
tation to the Variags, or Normans, with the message and the invitation,
" Our land is great and bountiful, but there is no order in it ; come and
rule over us." In 864 Rurik, a Norman prince, took up his residence at
Novgorod, and there founded the Russian monarchy, the sceptre of which
continued to be held by his descendants for upwards of 700 years. Two of
Rurik's followers subsequently left him to seek their fortunes in the south,,
and on their journey to Constantinople they attacked the town of Kief,
gained possession of it, and it thus became the capital of a second Slavonian
kingdom.
I Six sovereigns succeeded Rurik, who, with their military comrades or
drujina, were constantly making war upon neighbouring tribes or fighting
for the right of succession to the throne of Kief, then the capital of Russia.
These princes all followed the pagan worship of their fathers ; but Vladimir,
the seventh in descent, who possessed himself of the throne in 981, was
converted to Christianity, originally introduced, although not established,
by Olga, who embraced the Greek religion at Constantinopte about the
year 955. His nature became changed, the cruelty of his disposition gave
way to clemency and humility, and when awarding punishments for crime
he is said to have exclaimed, " What am I, that I should condenm a fellow-
uigitized Dy \^kjkjw^i\^
JSussia. V 1. — Sidortcal ifotice. 3
creature to death ? " He also endeavoured to overcome the violent preju-
dices and superstitions of his subjects by founding seminaries, with professors
from Greece ; and from that classic land he likewise procured architects and
other artisans to instruct his people in their several crafts. His military
conquests embraced the whole of Poland. Vladimir deserved well of his
country, and the Russian Church has enrolled him among the number of
her saints. His son Yaroslaf, who reigned thirty-five years, and died
at the age of seventy-seven years, was a prince of considerable attain-
ments and a great patron of the arts; the church of St. Sophia, at
Kovgorod, was by his order decorated with pictures and mosaics, portions of
which remain to the present time. His wars with Boleslas of Poland, as
well as his acquirements and the splendour in which he lived, made his
name known and respected throughout Europe. Three of his daughters
were married to the Kings of France, Norway, and Hungary ; and his
eldest son, Vladimir, who died before him, espoused a daughter of the
unfortunate Harold, the last of our Saxon kings. Yaroslaf died in 1054,
and, like his father, divided his territories among his sons. Vladimir
Monomachus, his grandson, who died in the early part of the next century,
did the same ; and as the princely house multiplied, the country was con-
tinually a prey to internal dissensions and strife. In the year preceding
the death of Monomachus, Kief was nearly destroyed by fire, and from the
great number of churches and houses that fell a prey to the flames that city
must have been of great opulence and extent. This calamity was followed
in the succeeding reign by a still greater one, when the sister capital,
Novgorod, was desolated by a famine so awful that the survivors were not
sufficiently numerous to bury the dead, and the streets were blocked up by
the putrid corpses of the inhabitants.
The reigns which followed this period of Bussian history are distinguished
by little else than continual civil wars, with this exception, that the town
of Vladimir, built by Yury I., in 1158, became in that year the capital
instead of Kief. But a formi<kble enemy drew near in the person of Tushi,
the son of Zenghis Khan, who, emigrating with his Tartars westward, led
tl^my about the year 1223, from the shores of the Sea of Aral and the
Caspian, to those of the Dnieper. The Circassians and Polovtzes having
endeavoured in vain to arrest the prc^ess of the horde, were at length con-
strained to apply to their hitherto inveterate foes for assistance, and, the
cause being now equally dear to all parties, the Russians made an intrepid
stand on the banks of the Khalka. The impetuous attack, however, of the
invaders was not to be withstood ; and, the Prince of Kief treacherously
abstaining from taking part in the battle, the Russians were completely
routed, and scarcely a tenth part of an army composed of 100,000 men
escaped. The enemy then pursued his way immolested to the capital,
which he took, and put 50,000 of the inhabitants of the principality of Kief
to the sword. The further progress of the Tartars northward was marked by
fire and bloodshed; but, having reached Novgorod Severski, they faced about
and retreated to the camp of Zenghis Khan, who was at this time in Buk-
haria. Thirteen years after, Baati Khan, his grandson, desolated Russia
again, committing every species of cruelty and man^^ breachesj^ fakh with
4 1. — Historical Notice, Sect. I*
the towns which submitted to his arms. In this manner the provinces
of Hiazan, Periaslavl, Eostof, and several others fell into his hands : for
with incredible apathy, and contrary to their usually warlike inclinations,
the Russian jmnces neglected to raise any troops to dispute the jJrogress of
the Tartars ; and the attention of Yury IL, Prince of Vladimir, was at that
important juncture engrossed in celebrating the marriage of one of his boyars.
Boused, at length, to a sense of his desperate position, he placed himself at
the head of some troops hastily called together, and left his family under the
protection of one of his nobles, trusting ths^this capital would be able to sus-
tain a long siege. He was^ mistaken T the Tartars soon made themselves
masters of Vladimir, and fihe'T)rincesses, as well as other persons of distinction,
were burnt alive in the church in which they had taken shelter. On hearing
of this tragical event, Yury marched with his adherents to meet the foe :
the contest was sanguinary and short ; but, after performing prodigies of valour
the Russians were borne down by overpowering numbers, and the prince was
left amongst the slain. There was now nothing to arrest the march of
the ruthless Tartars, and they pushed forward to within sixty miles of
Novgorod, when they again turned round without any ostensible motive
and evacuated the Russian territory. The wretched condition into which
the southern and central parts of the empire were thrown by these invasions
afforded a most advantageous opportunity for other enemies to attack it ;
and, accordingly, in 1242, and during the reign of Yaroslaf II., the Swedes,
Danes, and Livonians, sent a numerous and well-disciplined army to demand
the submission of Novgorod ; this, Alexander, the son of the reigning prince,
refused, and, leaving his capital, he advanced, unaided by any allies, to
meet his opponents, and fought the celebrated battle of the NevA, which
gained him the surname of Nevski and a place in the Russian calendar.
The personal courage of Alexander in this battle was of the highest order,
and mainly contributed to secure the victory.
A cruel and constantly fluctuating war with the Tartars, various incur-
sions by the Livonians, Lithuanians, Swedes, and Poles, and the most
frightful civil discord amongst the several, almost regal, provinces of Russia,
occupied fourteen successive reigns, between Yury II., who died in 1237,
and Ivan I., who succeeded his father in the principality of Vladimir in
1328. At times, during this period, the Tartars arrogated to themselves
the power of protectors of this or that interest ; and in the case of Ivan I.,
Uzbek Khan secured to him the possession of Novgorod, as well as of
Vladimir and Moscow. Ivan's father had greatly beautified and improved
the latter town, and Ivan followed his example and made it his residence.
Here also resided the Metropolitan, and it therefore rapidly advanced in
importance. Ivan's reign of thirteen years was remarkable as improving
and peaceful ; and he exercised a sound discretion by building a wall of
wood round the city, which supported a rampart of earth and stone. At
the close of his life he took monastic vows, and died in 1341. In the
reign of Ivan II., second son of the previous Tsar of that name, Moscow
established its pre-eminence as a city, and became the capital of the empire.
Ivan died in 1358.
Towards the close of this century the Russians, under Dmitri IV., raised
an army of 400,000 men, and met the Tartars near the Don, and defeated
uigitized Dy vj^^Vv'v i>^
Snflfiia. 1. — Historical Notice. 5
them with great loss; the victors, however, suffered greatly, and when
Dmitri reviewed his army after the hattle he found it reduced to 40,000
men : this success obtained for him the surname of Donski. Subsequently,
however,* to this victory the Tartars again advanced, and Dmitri, betrayed
by his allies, the princes of the neighbouring states, deserted Moscow, which
fell by capitulation into the hands of the Tartars, who devastated it with
fire and sword until it was utterly destroyed, no building being permitted
to remain except those which happened to have been constructed of stone
by the Grand Prince. The character of Dmitri is thus given by the Metro-
politan Cyprian : — *^ He knew," says that ecclesiastic, " how to soften the
kingly office by condescension ; he was impartial in the administration of
justice, and delighted to promote the peace and happiness of his subjects ;
his learning was small, but the rectitude of his disposition and the kindness
of his heart supplied the defects of education, and entitle him to a dis-
tinguished place amongst Kussian sovereigns.** His son, Basil II., wha
SQcoeeded him in 1389, was destined to see his country invaded by the
Tartars under Tamerlane, but they never reached the capital, for he pre-
pared to give them battle on the river Oka, when they suddenly turned
round and retired, as their countrymen had previously done on two other
occasions. The Russians attributed this to a miracle performed by a picture
of the Virgin Mary, painted by St. Luke. The horde, however, joined by
the Lithuanians, afterwards laid siege to Moscow, but were repulsed by the
inhabitants, the Grand Prince having retired with his family to Kostroma ;
exasperated at this defeat, the Tartars in their retreat pillaged the sur-
rounding country and slaughtered the defenceless peasantry. Money was
first coined in Novgorod during this reign : hitherto its place had been
supplied with skins and pieces of leather ; twenty skins of the marten
were considered as equivalent to a grivna, the value of which was a real
pound of gold or silver, of nine and a quarter ounces in Kief, and thirteen
in Novgorod.
During the reign of Basil Russia was thrice visited with the plague and
famine, while the ancient city of Novgorod was shaken by an earthquake
after the greater part of its buildings had been consumed by fire. Internal
dissensions broke out on the death of Basil, a dispute having arisen
respecting the succession to the throne between the son of that monarch
and his uncle George : this was, by the consent of both parties, left to the
decision of the Khan of Tartary, who determined in favour of the former ;
nevertheless, a civil war followed, and George was for a short time in pos-
session of the thYone, when, finding himself abandoned by his party and his
family, he restored it to his nephew, and returned to his principality of
Galitch. Complicated wars, Russian and Tartar, followed; the principal
incident of which was that Ivan, the Prince of Mojaisk, in the interest of the
traitor Sh^miaka, induced Basil to stop at the monastery of the Troitsa to
return thanks on his arrival from the horde, and, having seized him there,
he took him to Moscow and put out his eyes. A few years after the Princo
of Mojaisk had committed this savage act Basil was restored to the throne,
and died in 1462.
The first exploit which BasiFs successor, Ivan III., attempted ^va3 the
uigitized by VjOOQ Iv^
6 1, — Eistoncal Notice. Sect. I.
reduction of Kazan, in which he succeeded after two severe campaigns ;
the next was the suhjection of Novgorod, in which he also succeeded,
incorporating that city and province with his own dominions, and, having
received the oaths of the inhahitants, he carried off with him to Moscow
their celebrated Vechd bell.* The next and most arduous undertaking was
the destruction of the Golden Horde under Akhmet, which he effected in
revenge for the insult offered him by that Khan in demanding the homage
which he had received from his predecessors. Ivan spat on the edict and
on Akhmet*s seal, and put his ambassadors to death, sparing one only to
convey the intelligence to his master, who prepared in the following year
to take his revenge ; but, awed by the preparations made to receive him on
the Oka, he retired for a time, and subsequently took the more circuitous
route through Lithuania, from which country he expected support; the
Kussians, however, met and defeated a part of his horde, and were returning
home, when the Khan was met on a different route by the Nogay Tartars,
"who routed his army and slew him in the battle. His ally, Casimir IV.,
algo brought himself under Ivan's indignation, not only for this war, but
because he attempted to poison him, and a raid that he made into the
territories of the Polish king was eminently successful. This powerful and
ambitious prince also made treaties of alliance with,- and received ambas-
sadors from, the Pope, the Sultan, the Kings of Denmark and Poland, and
from the Republic of Venice ; it was he who assumed the title of Grand Prince
of Novgorod, Vladimir, Moscow, and all Russia, and changed the arms of
St. George on horseback for the Black Eagle with two heads, after his
marriage with Sophia, a princess of the imperial blood of Constantinople.
In fact, Ivan IH. may be called the true founder of the modem Russian
empire. The Russian historian Karamsin thus describes him : — " Without
being a tyrant like his grandson, he had received from nature a certain
harshness of character which he knew how to moderate by the strength of
his reason. It is, however, said that a single glance of Ivan, when he was
excited with anger, would make a timid woman swoon, that petitioners
dreaded to approach his throne, and that even at his table the boyars, his
grandees, trembled before him;" which portrait does not belie his own
declaration, when the same boyars demanded that he should give the crown
to his grandson Ivan, whom he had dispossessed in favour of a son by his
second wife, "I will give to Russia whomsoever I please.*' He died, very
infirm, in 1505, having reigned forty-three years. Wars between the
Russians, the Poles, the Tartars, and the Novgorodians again arose on the
death of Ivan ; and it was not till the death of Basil IV., his successor, and
a minority of twelve years had elapsed in the reign of Ivan IV., that internal
cabals and intrigues were for a time suppressed. This monarch, the first
to take the title of Tsar^lf married Anastasia, the daughter of Roman Yury-
vitch, who in the early part of his reign had the happiest ascendency over a
character naturally violent and cruel. Ivan was at this period affable and
condescending, accessible to both rich and poor, and his mental powers,
* For the history of that ancient Republic, vide Boute 5.
t The sovereigns of Russia had hitherto been called Grand Princes. Tsar is derived ftx>Qi the
Greek Kaimr. Czar is a corrupt orthography of the title, and in Polish reads Char,
:^00^
gle
Eussia. 1. — Historical Notice, 7
under her guidance, were employed in advancing the interests and happi-
ness of his subjects. Ivan soon perceived that to preserve his own power
he must annihilate the Tartar dominion ; to this he felt his uninstructed
army was unequal : he therefore established, in 1545, the militia of the
Streltsi, and armed them with muskets instead of bows, — ^hitherto their
arms, as their name imports, from Strekb^ an arrow. He then laid siege
to and captured Kazan, taking the Khan prisoner. He likewise defeated
Grufitavus Wasa in a pitched battle near Wyborg, ravaged Livonia, taking
Dorpat, Narva, and thirty fortified towns, and made war on the King of
Poland because he had refused him his daughter in marriage. An unsuc-
cessful campaign against this potentate, attributed by the boyars to the
unskilful arrangements of the foreign generals, as well as the death of
his wife Anastasia, whose controlling influence was no longer felt, led to
the unlimited indulgence of his) naturally ferocious disposition ; and the
remaining acts of his life, which this short sketch will not permit us to
dilate upon, gained for him in the history of his country the surname of
** The Terrible." Independently of the many and dreadful acts of barbarity
of which he was guilty, he killed his^own son in a paroxysm of rage, but
died a prey to the grief and remorse which this fearful crime occasioned,
after having endeavoured to atone for it by giving large sums of money
to different monasteries : he received the tonsure in his last moments. As
a legislator he was superior to his predecessors, having, with the assistance
of his nobles, compil^ a code of laws called Sudehnik, In his reign an
English ship, conamanded by Richard Chancellor, on a voyage of discovery in
the Arctic Sea, anchored in the mouth of the Dwina.* Ivan controlled his
religious prejudices, and tolerated the Lutheran churches of the German
merchants at Moscow ; but he never shook hands with a foreign ambas-
sador without Washing his own immediately after the visitor had taken his
leave. With a character so strongly marked by cruelty, superstition, and
caprice, it is remarkable to find not only that he was enterprising and
intelligent^ but that he should have entertained the idea of placing the
Scriptures in the hands of his subjects in the mother-tongue : he ordered
a translation to be made of the Acts and Epistles, and had it disseminated
over his dominions. " In the memory of the people,^ observes Karamzin,
"the brilliant renown of Ivan survived the recollection of his bad
qualities. The groans had ceased, the victims were reduced to dust;
new events caused cmcient traditions to be forgotten, and the memory of
this prince reminded people only of the conquest of three Mogul kingdoms.
The proofs of his atrocious actions were buried in the public archives, whilst
Kazan, Astrakhan, and Siberia remained in the eyes of the nation as im-
perishable monuments of his glory. The Russians, who saw in him the
illustrioas author of their power and civilization, rejected or forgot the sur-
name of tyrant given him by his contemporaries. Under the influence of
some confused recollections of his cruelty they still call him Ivan * The
Terrible,' without distinguishing him from his grandfather Ivan III., to
whom Russia had given the same epithet rather in praise than in reproach.
History does not pardon wicked princes so easily as do people." Ivan IV.
• For history of intercourse between Russia and England, vide ' British Factory and Chapel.' '■
uigitized Dy ^^jkjkjs/i\^
8 1. — Historical Notice. Sect. I.
died in 1584, having governed the Russian nation for a longer period than
any other sovereign, namely, fifty-one years.*
Theodore I., who ascended the throne after his death, and was a feeble
and vacillating prince, died in 1598. His successor was Boris Godunof, his
wife's brother, who, like our own Richard, compassed the death of his nephew
Dmitri, sgn of John the Temble ; and therefore in Theodore ended the
dynasty of Rurik, which during seven centuries had wielded the Russian
sceptre. Consequent upon this deed came all kinds of civil calamities,
and in 1604 a pretender to the throne arose in the person of a Russian
monk. This man assumed the character of the murdered Dmitri, and after
having drawn to his standard the Poles and the Cossacks of the Don, met
Boris in the field, remained master of it, and in the space of one year seated
himself on the throne. Nor was this civil war the only calamity which,
befell the Russians during the reign of Boris; Moscow was, in 1600,
visited by the most appalling famine that ever devastated the capital of a
country. It is related that, driven by the pangs of hunger, instances oc-
curred of mothers having first slain and then eaten their own children ; and
it is recorded that a woman, in her extremity, seized with her teeth the
flesh of her son, whom she carried in her arms. Others confessed that they
had entrapped into their dwellings, and subsequently killed and eaten,
three men successively. One hundred and twenty-seven thousand corpses
remained for some days in the streets unburied, and were afterwards in-
terred in the fields, exclusive of those which had been previously buried in
the four hundred churches of the city. An eyewitness relates that this
awful visitation carried off 500,000 persons from the densely-peopled
capital, the population of which was at the time augmented by the influx
of strangers. During this dreadful calamity, Boris, with justifiable violence,
broke open the granaries which avarice had closed, and had the corn sold at
half its value.
Serfdom was instituted during the reign of Boris Godunof. By his advice
a decree was issued, on the 24th Nov. 1597, a year previous to the death
of Theodore, forbidding peasants to leave the lands on which that date
should find them. This was the first enactment that bound the peasantry
firmly to the soil. Earlier traces of their attachment are, it is true, to be
found in the middle of the 13th cent., during the Tartar dominion, when a
census was taken, in 1257, in order to secure the regular collection of
taxes. The inhabitants of towns and villages were then forbidden to leave
them without permission, and the custom sprang up by degrees of restricting
the migrations of the rural population to the commencement or termina-
tion of the agricultural season. The custom was legalized in 1497, and
confirmed by John IV. in 1550 ; but the full and final attachment of the
husbandman to the soil was not consummated until the close of the 16th
century.
Interminable and inexplicable troubles, a second false Dmitri, and other
* For an account of the OpritchnikB and other acts of the reign of John the Terrible, vide the
'iescription of Moscow. ^r^r^]r>
Uigitized Dy vjvJOv IV^
Eossia. 1. — Historiccd Notice. 9
impostors, led, after the abort reign of Shuiski (1605-1606), to the occupa-
tion of Moscow by the Poles, in 1610, who entered the city with Vladislaus,
son of Sigismund King of Poland, elected to the throne by the boyars, on
condition that he should embrace the Greek religion. This gave great
offence to the national feeling, and Minin, a citizen of Nijni-Novgorod, called
his comitrymen to arms, and entreated the boyar Pojarski to take the com-
mand. This he did without reluctance, and his army was quickly increr^sod
by the arrival of troops and money from various towns, and by the Coawicks
and Streltsi, who flocked to his banner. Thus strengthened, they marched
to Yaroslaf, and afterwards to Moscow, to which they laid siege, carried the
Kitai Gorod by assault, and made a fearful slaughter of the Poles ; when
the occupants of the Kremlin, driven to the last extremity by famine,
surrendered, and Vladislaus abandoned the country.
In 1613, after the flight of Vladislaus, the States-General, convoked by
the boyars and military chiefs, proceeded to elect as their Tsar Michael
Romanoff, the son of the Metropolitan of Rostof, who was at the time only
sixteen years of age. He was proclaimed Tsar of all the Russias, without
the title of Autocrat, enjoyed by the Sovereigns after John III., and
the Act of Election stipulated many important rights to the people.
Civil strife and foreign wars continued after the accession of Michael ;
and that in which the Tsar was involved with Gustavus Adolphus was
terminated, not much to the advantage of Russia, through the mediation
of England, France, and Holland. A treaty was signed by the belligerent
parties on the 26th of January, 1616, which gave to Sweden Ingria,
Carelia, Livonia, and Esthonia, the Russians retaining Novgorod.
The Poles were at that time masters of Smolensk, and ravaged the
country up to the walls of Moscow, against which they made a night
attack, but were repulsed ; they remained, however, in possession of
Smolensk, after sustaining a siege of two years. Dragoons are mentioned
for the first time in this reign, as forming part of a Russian army, and the
Tsar was assisted in his wars by both German and French troops ; these
regiments served him as models for the organization of the Russian army,
which was further improved by the discipline introduced by Scottish
officers. After a reign distinguished by an enlightened policy and virtuous
habits, the Tsar died in July, 1645, at the age of forty-nine years. His son
Alexis, who was a prince of a mild and benevolent disposition, succeeded
him. The chief events of his reign were the marauding expeditions of the
Cossacks of the Bon, led by Stenka Razin, a rebellion in the city of Astra-
khan, and the appearance of another Pretender, who was brought captive
to Moscow, and put to a violent and cruel death. In this reign shipwrights
came over from Holland and England, and a Dutchman named Butler built
a vessel called the Eagle, at Dedinova, a village on the Oka river, near the
mouth of the Moskva. This was the first ship that the Russians had seen
built on scientific principles. The Tsar Alexis directed his attention to
legal reforms, and his reign is most remarkable for the improvements which
he introduced. The States-General, a body composed of delegates from all
classes, and first summoned in 1550, after the suppression of the old Vech6
or Wittenagemotes, were convoked in 1648, for the compilation of a new
uigitized Dy vjv^'v^^gv^
10 1. — Historical Notice. Sect. I.
code of laws. Little Eussia and Bed Eussia (Galicia), conquered by Ca-
simir the Great in the 14th century, submitted to Alexis. An account of
his quarrel with the Patriarch Nicon, and of .the origin of dissent in the
Eussian Church, will be read in Route 6. Alexis di^ in 1676, and was
succeeded by his son Theodore III., who died young in 16S2. During the
short period allotted him for the exercise of power he evinced every dispo-
sition to carry out his fiather*s plans ; he directed his attention to the im-
provement of the laws, and rendered justice accessible to all, and, in the
words of a Russian historian, " lived the joy and delight of his people, and
died amidst their sighs and tears. On the day of his death Moscow was in
the same distress that Eome was on the death of Titus." The sovereignty
of the Cossacks was secured to Eussia in this reign. Theodore left no chil-
dren, and named no successor, expecting, no doubt, that his own brother
Ivan would succeed him. That prince, however, was both mentally and
physically incapable of holding the reins of government, and, in conse-
quence, his sister Sophia was intrusted with the affairs of state by the
Streltsi, who had arrogated to themselves the power of the Prsstorian bands,
and decided that the Tsar's half-brother, Peter, afterwards the Great, the
son of Natalia, Alexis's second wife, should share the throne with him.
The two boys were therefore crowned together by the Patriarch on the
15th of June, 1682, but Sophia actually reigned. Subsequently to this
the Prince Khovanski, leader of the Streltsi, not only neglecting to cultivate
the princess's friendship, but allowing her to perceive that he and his men
watched her proceedings, she determined upon his ruin, which was further
hastened by the intrigue of his known enemy, Miloslavski. This boyar
accused him, in a public placard, of having, with his son and his Streltsi,
conspired to effect the death of the two Tsars and the destruction of the
family of Romanoff ; and, under this accusation, Khovanski and his son
were seized and beheaded. Their followers, at first furious at B^hovanski's
death, afterwards becoming disheartened at the preparations made to resist
and punish them, proceeded to the monastery of the T'roitsa, and made
their submission to Natalia and the Tsars, who had fled there for refuge.
Subsequently Sophia still contrived, with the assistance of her Minister,
Galitzin, to govern Russia, until she affronted Peter, who retired to the
town of Kolomna, to which place he was followed by a large party ; and
soon after this, being informed that the Streltsi were again in revolt, under
Sophia's influence, Natalia once more removed him to the fortified walls
of the Troitsa. It was in vain that Sophia disclaimed this accusation.
Peter neither believed her nor forgave her ; and, failing in her attempt to
reach Poland, she was incarcerated in a monastery for the rest of her life.
This princess was, considering the times in which she lived, a woman of
extraordinary taste and literary acquirements. A tragedy, written by her
when she was involved in state intrigues, and apparently absorbed in poli-
tical turmoil, is still preserved. On Peter's return from the Troitsa to
Moscow, his brother resigned to him his share in the government, and in
1689 he became sole Tsar, being, at this time, only seventeen years of age.
Ivan survived till 1696.
The ruling passion of Peter the Great was a desire to extend his empire
and consolidate his power ; and accordingly, his first act was to make war
uigitized Dy \^kjkjs/i\^
EtLssia. 1. — Historical Notice. 11
on the Turks, an undertaking which was at the outset imprudently con-
ducted, and consequently unsuccessful ; he lost 30,000 men hefore Azoff,
and did not obtain permanent possession of the town till the year 1699, and
then by an armistice. In the followiog year he was defeated at Narva by
an inferior force, under Charles XII., then only a boy of seventeen ; and on
many other occasions the Eussians suffered severe checks and reverses. But
at length the indomitable perseverance of Peter prevailed. St. Petersburg
was founded in 1703, imder the circumstances detailed in the description of
the city. In 1705 he carried Narva, the scene of his former defeat, by
assault ; and two years after, by the crowning victory of Poltava, where he
showed the qualities of an able general, he sealed the fate of his gallant and
eccentric adversary, and that of the nation over which he ruled. In 1711
Peter once more took the field against the Turks ; but his troops were badly
provisioned, and, having led them into a very disadvantageous position near
the Pruth, he was reduced to propose a peace, one of the conditions of which
was that the King of Sweden should be permitted to return to his own
country. From this period to 1718 he was constantly occupied in pur-
suing with vigour the plans which he had originated for extending the
frontiers of his kingdom towards the sea ; and in 1718 he drove the Swedes
out of Finland, made several descents upon the coast near Stockholm,
destroyed whole towns, and finally, in 1721, by the peace of Nystadt, re-
tained Esthonia, Livonia, Ingria, a part of Carelia and Finland, as well as
the islands of Dago, Moen, Oesel, &c. Having now no enemy on this side,
he turned his arms eastward, and took Derbend, on the Caspian, in 1724 —
an inglorious conquest, for only 6000 men were opposed to his veteran army
of 11,000, besides Cossacks and Kalmucks. This was his last military
achievement, for he died in 1725, in the fifty-second year of his age.
"We have said that the Tsar's ruling passion was to extend his empire
and consolidate his power, but he likewise possessed in an eminent
degree a persevering mind and a resolute will, which bid defiance to
all difficulties. By the assistance of his foreign officers he succeeded
in [forming and bringing into a high state of discipline a large army ;
he found Eussia without a fishing-smack, and bequeathed to her a
navy, to which that of Sweden, long established and highly efficient,
lowered her flag ; he built Petersburg, which may be said to float upon the
waters of the Neva ; he caused canals and other works of public utility to
be constructed in various parts of the empire, endowed colleges and univer-
sities, and established commercial relations with China and almost every
other nation on the globe. The Tsar likewise possessed the capability of
enduring privation and bodily fatigue to an almost incredible extent, and
seemed to act upon the idea that by his own personal exertions and the
versatility of his genius he could accomplish for Eussia that which it had
taken centuries to effect in other countries, and fancied he could infuse into
her citizens an immediate appreciation of the mechanical and polite arts,
as well as a taste for those things which are seen only in an advanced stage
of civilization. Peter devoted his whole attention and energies to this
theory, and, though he could not compass impossibilities, he was enabled,
by the uncontrolled exercise of the imperial will and inexhaustible re-
sources, to effect a most extraordinary and rapid change in the political and
Digitized Dy vjv^v^v iv^
12 1. — nistorical Notice, Sect. I.
physical condition of his country. The States-General were no more
summoned. The Tsar now reigned alone, without even the old Chamber
or Council of Boyars, that had existed through so many previous reigns.
In their place he founded the Senate, or High Court of Justice, which is
preserved to this day. His system of administration was founded on the
Swedish Collegiate Institutions. Dissent from the Church was very much
increased by his reforms, which even included the shaving of beards. The
opponents of the ritual of Nicon styled him the Antichrist.
The manual dexterity and mechanical knowledge of Peter were great.
Against the expressed wish of his boyars and the clergy, who thought it
an irreligious act, he left Russia to make himself acquainted with the arts
and inventions of other European nations, and worked with an adze in
their principal dockyards — ^he not only built, but sailed his own boat, which
is still to be seen in St. Petersburg, as are specimens of his engraving,
turning, and carpenter's work. He rose at four, at six he was either in the
senate or the admiralty, and his subjects must have believed that he had
the gift of ubiquity, so many and various were his occupations. He had
also the virtue of economy, a quality rarely seen in a sovereign. He even
found time for literature, and translated several works into Russian ;
amongst these was the * Architecture ' of Leclerc, and the * Art of Con-
structing Dams and Mills ' by Sturm ; these MSS. are preserved. During
the Tsar's visit to London he was much gazed at by the populace, and on
one occasion was upset by a porter who pushed against him with his load,
when Lord Carmarthen, fearing there would be a pugilistic encounter,
turned angrily to the man, and said, " Don't you know that this is the
Tsar ? " " Tsar ! " replied the man, with his tongue in his cheek, " we
are all Tsars here." Sauntering one day into Westminster Hall with the
same nobleman, when it was, as usual, alive with wigs and gowns, Peter
asked who these people might be, and, when informed that they were
lawyers, nothing could exceed his astonishment. "Lawyers!" he said;
" why, I have but two in all my dominions, and I beheve I shall hang one
of them the moment I get home." His vices were such as to have been
expected in a man of his violent temperament, despotic in a barbarous
country, and who in early life had been surrounded by flatterers and dis-
solute associates. But it would be foreign to the purpose of this work to
enter into a discussion of this nature. The Russians date their civilization
from his reign; but a slight glance at the histoiy of some of the early
Tsars will show that, in many of the points on which the greatness of his
reputation rests, he was anticipated by his predecessors. Dark and savage
as the history of the country is, an attempt at public education had been
made, religious toleration and an anxiety to promote commerce existed, and
the institution of a code of laws had already occupied attention. The
untimely deaths of some of these princes deprived Russia of monarchs far
more benevolent than Peter, men of finer and more generous minds, and,
though not so ambitious, quite as anxious for her welfare. Under their
sway no such rush at improvement would have been made ; no such influx
of foreigners would have taken place ; but, if not so rapidly, at least as
surely these sovereigns would have effected quite as much real good.
Peter left no code of laws established on the broad principles of justice ; he
Digitized Dy vj^^v^viv^
Bussia. 1. — Historical Notice. 13
trayelled in England and Holland, but thought only of their navies, and
wholly overlooked the great principles of their government, by which he
might have ameliorated the condition of his own. Trial by jury never
appears to have attracted his attention. The Tsar, it is true, reigned over
a nation of serfs— so did Alfred, and iu the 9th, instead of the 18th
century. The death of his son Alexis, in the fortress of St. Petersburg,
whether by violence or from the effects of torture, is an indelible blot on
his character. The unhappy Tsarevitch was opposed to his father's
reforms, and fled his dominions. Induced by Peter to return to Russia,
he was thrown into a dungeon, where he suddenly died, after a cross
examination, conducted by the Tsar in person, and a frequent application of
torture. The Empress Catherine survived Peter only two years, dying at
the age of thii*ty-nine. The reduction of the capitation tax was the most
popular act of her short reign, and Delille, Baer, and the Bemouillis were
the most distinguished members of the Academy of Sciences which Peter
had left her to open. Peter, the son of Alexis, and grandson of Peter the
Great (by his first wife Eudoxia, who survived Catherine), died of the
smallpox at the age of fifteen ; in him the male line of the Eomanoffs
became extinct. His intellect was good, and, though so young, he gave
great promise of being an honour and a blessing to his country. Ajane,
Duchess of Courland, who succeeded this youthful sovereign, was daughter
of Ivan, half-brother of Peter the Great ; she died in 1740, after reign-
ing ten years. Her chief 'merit was in. advancing the commerce of the
country, and establishing silk and woollen manufactories — her chief folly,
the building of a palace of ice, to which she sent one of her buffoons and
his wife to pass the night of their wedding-day, the nuptial couch being
also constructed of that cold material, as well as all the furniture, and the
four cannons which fired several rounds.
The Duchess of Courland was elected to the throne by the nobles, who
caused her to subscribe to a constitution or charter, of which the principal
points were that — "Without the advice of the council, rendered irre-
movable, the sovereign could neither declare war nor make peace ; nor
could he choose a successor, appoint to the higher offices of state, or impose
new taxes. The sovereign .was not to punish the gentry, either corporally
or by the infliction of fines, without ''submitting their offences to the or-
dinary courts of justice." The empress availed herself of the discord
which soon reigned in her council to re-establish the absolutism she had
surrendered. A sham revolution was organized by exciting the jealousy of
the inferior nobility, and by acting on the ignorance of the lower classes.
A populace having assembled in front of the palace, and asked to see the
empress, she pointed out to Prince Dolgomkof, the High Chancellor, that
the ])eople were desirous that she should govern like her ancestors.
" What," she asked, " have you said in your Constitution ? " Taking the
, Charter from the trembling hand of the prince, she tore it into pieces
before the applauding multitude. Her favourite, I3iren, Duke of Courland,
caused all the members of the Dolgoruki faction to be either broken on the
wheel or banished to the mines of Siberia for ever.
A war which was prosecuted against the Turks in this^eimended to
Digitized by VjOOQIv^
14 1. — Historical Notice, Sect. I.
the'disadvantage of Russia, and, as the price of peace, Azoff, Otchakof, and
Moldavia were given up to the Porte. Intrigues drove Ivan VI., the
infant son of the Princess o£ Brunswick, niece of the Empress Anne, from
the throne, and in 1741, Elizabeth, daughter of Peter the Great, took
possession of it. Ivan was first imprisoned in a monastery, but, having
attempted to escape, was removed to the Castle of SchlUsselburg, where he
was put to death.
The reign of Elizabeth was one series of wars and intrigues, and wholly
unfavourable to the intellectual improvement and progress of the people.
The Swedes thought this a favourable moment to recover their ancient
possessions, but were obliged to agree to a peace on the basis of that of
Nystadt. Detesting Frederic for some coarse remark levelled at her mother,
Elizabeth made war with Prussia, which lasted from 1753 to 1762, the
year of her death. The taste of this empress for architecture greatly con-
tributed to embellish St. Petersburg, and the Academy of Fine Arts in
that capital was instituted by her ; but she was a model of hypocrisy, and,
while from feelings of pretended humanity she abolished capital punish-
ments and deplored the miseries her troops suffered in the war with
Prussia, she established a kind of Star Chamber, in which justice and
mercy were unknown. Peter III., son of the Princess Anne, eldest
daughter of Peter the Great, succeeded Elizabeth, and, being a great friend
of Frederic, he immediately made peace with Prussia ; he also suppressed
the secret council established for the examination of political offenders,
softened the rigour of militaiy discipline, permitted his nobles to travel,
lowered the duties in the Livonian ports, reduced the price of salt, and
abated the pressure of usury by the establishment of a loan bank, and
instituted other salutary and wise measures. He was, however, of a weak
and vacillating disposition, and his tastes were entirely German, which
amounted to a crime in the eyes of the nobility ; this and the intrigues of
his wife, afterwards the Empress Catherine II., whom he grossly neglected,
led to his downfall, and he died by suffocation at Hopsha in 1762.
The reign of Catherine 11. is one of the most remarkable in Russian
history. In the early part of it she interfered in the affairs of Poland,
which produced a civil war, and ended in the conquest of that country.
In 1769 the Turks declared war, which was at first favourable to their
arms ; they were afterwards defeated with great slaughter on the Dniester,
and abandoned Khotin. At this period was fought the celebrated action
before Tchesm^, in which the Turkish fleet was completely destroyed,
an achievement that was mainly owing to the gallant conduct of Admirals
Elphinstone and Greig, and Lieutenant Dugdale, Englishmen in the
Russian service. In another campaign the Russians carried the lines of
Perecop, defended by 57,000 Turks and Tartars, and thus obtained pos-
session of the Crimea, while Rumiantsoff gained several victories in the
Danubian provinces. These conquests were, however, dearly purchased ;
the plague passed from the Turks into the Russian armies, and the frightful
malady was carried by the troops into the very heart of the country"; 800
i:>ersons died daily at Moscow, and the disease subsided only with the
uigitized Dy vjiv^v>»v iv^
Eossia. 1. — Higtorical Notice. 16
severity of the winter. It was in this year that the Kahnuck Tartars, who
had been upwards of half a century settled near the steppes of the Volga,
north of Astraldian, suddenly, and to the number of 350,000 souls, left
the Russian territory for their old haunts on the Chinese border — ^an
affront offered to them by the empress is said to have been the cause ^of
this extraordinary flight. Every attempt at negotiation having failed, tibe
contest with the Turks was renewed in 1773 ; and though the Russians
again suffered severe losses, Rumiantsoff brought the war to a successful
termination ; and, by the treaty of peace concluded in 1774, his country
obtained the fi*ee navigation of the Euzine, the cession of Einbum,
Yenikal^, with a tract between the Bug, the Dnieper, and Taganrog. Russia
restored her other conquests, and the Turks paid into the Russian Treasury
4,000,000 of rubles towards the expenses of the war ; they also acknow-
ledged tbe independence of the Crimea, which in the year 1784 fell alto-
gether into the hands of Russia, as well as the island of Taman and part
of the Kuban. Shortly after this, Catherine and the northern courts, with
France, jealous of British maritime power, brought about a combination
against England, which was hastened by the following singular incident.
The British minister, fearing that this intrigue was going on, desired
Fotemkin tolay before the empress a memorial that he had drawn up, which
the prince promised to do. Of this memorial the French governess of his
nieces contrived to possess herself, and, after allowing the French minister
to make his notes in refutation of it in the margin, replaced it in Po-
temkin's pocket, who, ignorant of the circumstance, laid it before
Catherine ; when the empress, conceiving the notes to have been made by
her favourite, formed a league with Sweden and Denmark, and announced
her intention of supporting it with her navy. In 1787 she made, in com-
pany with Potemkin and an immense suite, her famous progress to the
Crimea, and the following year found her once more at war with the Turks.
Finland was invaded by Gustavus III. soon after. This contest was
settled by a pacification in 1790. In the close of that year Constantinople
trembled at the forward movement of the Russians, and the fall of Ismail
under Suwaroff, after the ninth assault, closed the war on the 22nd of
December. In this extremity Europe combined to save the Porte from
destruction, and in 1791 Russia relinquished all the territory she had
acquired, excepting that guaranteed by the treaty of 1784. In these wars
with the Ottoman Empire there were destroyed 130,000 Austrians, 200,000
Russians, and 370,000 1 urks, in all 660,000 men. About this time the
intrigues of Russia, Austria, and Prussia, for the partition of Poland, com-
menced, and, carried on for several years, were brought to a conclusion by
two sieges of Warsaw ; in the first Kosciusko was made prisoner, and in
the second the Poles, unassisted by his genius, gave way in that fearful
assault which, on the 9th November, 1794, consummated the ruin of
Poland as a nation. Catherine's subsequent plans of aggrandisement in
Daghestan and on the shores of the Caspian were cut short by her death,
on the 9th November, 1796. The great talents for governing which the
empress possessed are universally admitted ; and, though her energies were
principally displayed in carrying out her schemes of foreign conquest, she
by no means neglected the interior economy of her empire. Her views on
uigitized Dy \^kjkjsii\^
16 .1. — Historical Notice. Sect. I.
all subjects were far more enlai^ed than those of her predecessors, and
upwards of 6800 children were educated at St. Petersburg at the public
expense. She invited Pallas, Eiiler, and Gmelin to survey her terri-
tories and describe their characteristics, and requested D'Alembert to
undertake the education of her grandson, the Grand Duke Alexander,
which he declined. The empress also confirmed the abolition of the secret
state inquisition, and, by dividing the administrative colleges of the empire
into separate departments, facilitated the despatch of business, and rendered
the administration in each more efficient. With a view to check corrup-
tion, she raised the salaries of the government officers, put down many
monopolies of the crown, and issued an ukaz, which prevented any pro-
prietor from sending his serfs to the mines, or to any distant part of the
empire, except for agricultural purposes. She purchased the praises of
the French philosophers, corresponded with Voltaire and D'Alembert, and
complimented Fox by asking him for his.' bust, which she placed between
those of Cicero and Demosthenes.
Catherine came to the throne eager for fame and anxious to put into
practice the philosophic doctrines of the age. It may even be said that
she was desirous of reigning constitutionally as far as serfage would permit
her. But she was most anxious to be a lawgiver, and her more liberal
advisers took advantage of her ambition and promoted the cause of representa-
tive government, such as had existed in Russia under the form, first of
Vech^, then of meetings of the States-General. AConamission was composed
of 565 deputies from the nobility, the inhabitants of towns, the military
colonies, and the foreign races subject to the empire, as well as from
the senate, the synod, and other public offices. This Commission — a Par-
liament all but in name — met on the 31st July, 1767, at Moscow, and,
after listening to the representations made by the seveml interests, drew
up the drafts of laws which Catherine subsequently enacted, and which
contributed greatly to the glory of her reign. But the Assembly having
commenced an inquiry into the evil of serfdom, the empress dissolved it
on the 29th December of the same year.
The Empress Catherine introduced important changes into the condition
of the nobility and clergy. The history of these may be here epitomized.
The comrades, or drujina, of the early princes of Russia long retained a
nomadic character. They passed from one prince to another as those
princes ascended in the scale of primogeniture and passed on to the throne
of Kief. They acquired no lands, and lived on the contributions which
they levied on the Zemstvo, or " people of the land," as distinguished from
the servants of the sovereign. On the. establishment of the throne of
Muscovy, the drujina of the deposed princes repaired to Moscow for em-
ployment in the service of the State, and styled themselves bondsmen of
the Tsar. At his court they quarrelled perpetually about the right of pre-
cedence. Each family guarded jealously its position in relation to other
families ; and each individual above the condition of a labourer had an
hereditary right, most intricately regulated, to a certain social position, which
he spent his whole life in asserting. The nobles having become unruly during
the reign of John the Terrible, that sovereign put to death a considerable
number'of his servants, and kept the rest in subordination with a new class
uigitized Dy vjv.'V^v iv^
Eussia. 1,— Historical Notice. 17
of nobles, the Opritchna, who carried out his instructions with unflparing
brutality. They murdered their victims openly in the streets, and, fed by
the Tsar, visited villages during the night and razed them to the ground.
It was with the assistance of these servants that John lY. subjected all his
lieges to despotic government. The old boyars deserted to the Prince of
Lithuania, and many were caught and punished. After that reign the
older families succeeded in causing Shiuski, one of their order, to be elected
Tsar : but on the accession of Michael Bomanoff all their privileges were
abolished, and the code of 1649, drawn up by the States-General, or Zemstvo,
rendered all subjects equal before the law. The nobles, however, now
b^an to acquire lands, which they at first held as feudatories under the
Crown, liable to military service. Peter the Great converted those lands
into freeholds, and at the same time bound the proprietors to perpetual
service. The Senate called up the young boyars from the country, and
allotted civil and military functions to them. In 1736 the period of service
was reduced to 25 years, and in 1761 the nobles were allowed the discretion
of serving the State or not. As every nobleman had been obliged to serve,
so every man that served the Crown acquired nobiUty through his chin, or
official rank. The nobility are still styled '' courtiers " in the Russian lan-
guage, and a chinovnik is always a nobleman.
An important feature in the social life of Russia is that the right of
primogeniture does not exist, except in a few great families. By an
ukaz of 1713, Peter I. desired to introduce an inheritance in fee of the
eldest son, but this was so much opposed to the customs and traditions
of the people that it was abandoned. Peter IL cancelled the ukaz in
1728.
Under the predecessors of Catherine the courtiers had assumed a con-
siderable amount of power, and now demanded a better position in the
State. Catherine II. granted them a charter in 1785, by which the nobles
of each province were fonned into a corporation, with the power of electing
judges and various rural officers. They moreover acquired the right of
meeting triennially for the discussion of their wants and interests. A
property qualification and official rank were required of the members of
these assemblies, who were exempted from corporal punishment, com-
pulsory service, and personal taxation. They had already acquired in
1754 the exclusive right of holding serfs. The Emperor Paul annulled this
charter, but it was restored by Alexander I.
The vicissitudes of the clergy have been as follows. In ancient Russia
they enjoyed many special privileges and the right of administering justice
on all Church lands. John IV. prohibited the attachment of land to
churches, and sought to make the Metropolitan dependent on his will. The
patriarchate was established under his son, but abolished by Peter,
who, warned by the example of Nicon, substituted the Holy Synod. The
present metropolitans have ecclesiastical jurisdiction only within their
several bishoprics or provinces, and are subject to the Synod. Peter the
Great considerably limited the power of the clersry. He converted the
monasteries into hospitals, and filled them with soldiers. Monks were not
Digitized Dy vjiv^v>»v iv^
18 1. — Historical Notice. Sect. I.
allowed the use of ink in order that they might not publish libels, and the
clergy generally were made amenable to the civil law. Peter the Great
also established a scale of fees, to which, in the reign of Nicholas were
added regular salaries, the village priest receiving 70 mbles per annum
(lOZ.), and his clerk 30 rubles (4Z. 10s.), in addition to a glebe of 33 dessi-
atinas (about 85 acres). The churches in towns likewise possess houses and
other real property, which pay no taxes, but their priests receive no salaries
from the State. Catherine II. took away the serfs and lands held by the
monasteries. They had acquired no fewer thani 900,000 male serfs ; the
Troitsa monastery alone possessing 100,000. In return, she freed the monks
from the liability of quartering troops, from corporal punishment, and from
compulsory service. Some of the monasteries were placed in direct de-
pendence on the Holy Synod, and others were left under the control of the
several bishops, who were, however, disqualified from depriving a priest of
his holy office without the decision of the Synod.
The inhabitants of towns were much improved in their condition under
Catherine II. They were not anciently distinct from the agricultural popu-
lation, and the town lands were held by private individuals. The Tsar
Alexis however declared that those lands belonged to the Crown. Peter the
Great gave them special courts of law, and generally promoted the welfare
of the mercantile classes ; the Empress Catherine gave them a charter in
1785, on the model of the nobility charter, with the right of electing
mayors and magistrates. The merchants were divided into guilds, and
obtained an exclusive privilege of trade. Nothing was, however, done
during her reign to remove the evils of serfdom ; on the contrary, alarmed
at the readiness with which the peasantry joined a formidable insurrection
under Pugatchef, the empress placed them still more under the control of
the landed proprietors, who were then invested with judicial and executive
powers.
Catherine, possessed of great beauty in her youth, preserved the traces of
it to the end of her life ; in matters of religion she was tolerant from
political motives, extravagant in an extraordinary degree, and, with a
woman's liberality, paid well those who served her ; and, though there are
many acts in her reign which cannot be defended, she did more for the
civilization of Russia than any of her predecessors. She was succeeded by
her son Paul, whose short reign, to 1801, was not of any great historical
importance. At his coronation he decreed a law of hereditary succession
to the crown in the male line, and afterwards in the female, instead of
leaving it to the caprice of the reigning Tsar. The emperor declared war
against the French in 1799, sent an army into Italy to oppose the repu-
blican generals, and through the intervention of England, Suwaroff, wlio
had been banished from the capital by Paul, was recalled, and placed at the
head of it. But the campaign in Italy, successful at first, ended un-
favourably to the Russian arms — when the emperor suddenly became a
great admirer of Bonaparte ; and, with the same inconsistency that exiled
Suwaroff, he liberated Kosciusko; subsequently the eccentricity of liis
actions led to the conclusion that he was of unsound mind. Amongst his
ukazes was one against the use of shoe-gtrings and round hats ; and in the
Digitized Dy ^^jkjkjw^ik^
Buflsio, 1. — Historical NoUce. 19
number of his eccentricities was a rage for painting, with the most glaring
colours, the watch-boxes, bridges, and gates throughout the empire. The
career of Paul was closed in March, 1801, in a similar manner to that of
Peter III., at the castle of St. Petersburg, where he then resided.
Alexander, his eldest son, succeeded to the throne, being then 24
years of age. In the same year he recalled the Siberian exiles, sup-
pressed the secret inquisition, re-established the power of the senate,
founded in 1804 the University of Kharkoff, and emancipated the
Jews. In 1805 the emperor joined the Northern Powers against France,
and on the 2nd December the Austro-Hussian army was defeated at
Austerlitz. In 1806, Mr. Fox having failed in negotiating a peace between
France and Russia, Napoleon overran Prussia, and, Benningsen having
evacuated Warsaw, Murat entered that city on the 28th November. On
the 26th December the French were beaten at Pultowsk, and in February,
1807, the severely contested battle of Eylau was fought, each side having
three times lost and won, the deciding move being made by Benningsen,
who took KSnigsberg by assault. On the 28th of May Dantzig capitulated
to the French, and on the 14th of June they won the battle of Friedland;
ten days after, Napoleon and Alexander met on a raft moored in the
middle of the Niemen, and concluded an armistice, which was a prelude to
the treaty of Tilsit, concluded on the 27tt July of the same year. Alex-
ander by this act became the ally of France, which enabled the French to
carry on their aggressive policy in Spain. But the* injury inflicted on
Russian commerce by Napoleon's continental system against England, and
his interference with Alexander's conquests in Finland in 1809, roused that
sovereign to a sense of his true interests. He broke with France, and the
invasion of Russia by the French was the consequence. To prepare for
and carry on his defence against this, the emperor made peace with the
Porte, and re-established his alliance with Great Britain. The operations
which took place during this memorable struggle are so well known that
they will only be briefly adverted to here.
On the 23rd of June, 1812, the French crossed the Niemen and pushed
on to Wilna, the Russians carefully retreating, and leaving Napoleon to
pass that river on the 28th, and enter the town unopposed. Here the
French emperor remained 18 days, and then, after considerable ma-
noeuvring, marched on Vitepsk, where he fully expected to bring the Rus-
sians, under Barclay de Tolly, to action. The Russian general, however,
declined ; and Napoleon, instead of following the advice of his marshals,
and wintering on the Dwina, crossed the Dnieper and marched on Smolensk.
On the 16th of August he was once more in front of the Russian grand army
near that town ; but the wary and intelligent De ToUy had occupied it
only to cover the flight of its inhabitants, and carry off or destroy its
magazines; and on the following morning Napoleon, to his great mortifica-
tion, learnt that the enemy, in pursuance of his- Fabian tactics, was again
off. Smolensk was now taken by assault, the last inhabitants that remained
having set fire to it before they left. Up to this time the Russian Com-
mander-in-Chief had been able to adhere to his plan of drawing the
Digitized Dy vjv^v^v iv^
20 1. — Historical Notice. Sect. I.
French into the country without risking a general engagement until a
favourable opportunity should occur — tactics which were not liked by his
army ; and Alexander, yielding to the clamour, appointed Kutusoff to the
command. The battle of Borodino, sometimes called that of the Moskva,
fought on the 1st of September, was the result of this change of leaders.
The combatants amounted on either side to about 120,000, and the killed
and wounded in both to about 80,000. On the 12th Bonaparte again
moved forward, his troops by this time nearly famished, and heartily tired
of the war, for the day of Borodino Kad given them a clear idea that the
enemy would yield only after a desperate struggle. On Sunday the 13th
the Russian army marched out of the old capital, with silent drums and
colours furled, by the Kolomna Gate, and left the city to its fate. In the
afternoon of Monday the advanced guard of the French army caught the
first view of her golden minarets and starry domes, and the Kremlin burst
upon their sight. ** All this is yours," cried Kapoleon, when he first gazed
upon the goal of his ambition, and a shout of ** Moscow ! Moscow ! " was
taken up by the foremost ranks, and carried to the rear of his army. In
Moscow they bivouacked the same evening. Ere the night had closed in,
their leader arrived at the Smolensko Gate, and then learnt, to his
astonishment, that 300,000 inhabitants had fled, and that the only Russians
who remained in the city were the convicts who had been liberated from
the gaols, a few of the rabble, and those who were unable to leave it. On
Tuesday, the 15th September, the mortified victor entered Moscow, and
took up his residence in the Kremlin ; but here his stay was destined to
be short indeed, for on the morning of the 16th it was discovered that a
fire, which had at first given but little cause for alarm, could not be re-
strained — fanned by the wind, it spread rapidly, and consumed the best
portion of the city. " The churches," says Labaume, " though covered
with iron and lead, were destroyed, and with them those graceful steeples
which we had seen the night before resplendent in the setting sun ; the
hospitals, too, which contained more than 20,000 wounded, soon began to
burn — a harrowing and dreadful spectacle — and almost all these poor
wretches perished ! " A few who still survived were seen crawling, half-
burnt, amongst the smoking ruins, while others were groaning under heaps
of dead bodies, endeavouring in vain to extricate themselves. The con-
fusion and tumult which ensued when the work of pillage commenced
cannot be conceived. Soldiers, sutlers, galley-slaves, and prostitutes, were
seen running through the streets, penetrating into the deserted palaces, and
carrying away everything that could gratify their avarice. Some clothed
themselves in rich stufiTs, silks, and costly furs ; others dressed themselves
in women's pelisses ; and even the galley-slaves concealed their rags under
the most splendid court dresses ; the rest crowded to the cellars, and,
forcing open the doors, drank the wine and carried off an immense booty.
This horrible pillage was not confined to the deserted houses alone, but
extended to the few which were inhabited, and soon the eagerness and
wantonness of the plunderers caused devastations which almost equalled
those occasioned by the conflagration. " Palaces and temples,'* writes
Karamzin, " monuments of art and miracles of luxury, the remains of past
ages and those which had l^en the ci*eation of yesterday, the tombs of
Digitized Dy ^^jkjkjwi\^
Eussia. 1. — Historical Notice, 21
ancestors and the nursery cradles of the present generation, were indiscri-
minately destroyed ; nothing was left of Moscow save the remembrance of
the city, and the deep resolution to avenge its fate."
On the 20th Napoleon returned to the Kremlin from the Palace of
Petrofski, to which he had retired, and soon tried to negotiate with Kutusoff,
who replied that no treaty could be entered into so long as a foreigner re-
mained within the frontier. The Emperor then requested that he would
forward a letter to Alexander. " I will do that," said the Russian general,
" provided the word peace is not in the letter." To a third proposition,
Kutusoff replied that it was not the time to treat or enter into an armistice,
as the Russians were just about to open the campaign. At length, on the
19th of October, after a stay of 34 days, Napoleon left Moscow with his
army, consisting of 120,000 men and 560 pieces of cannon, a vast amount
of plunder, and a countless host of camp followers. And now the picture
of the advance was to be reversed. Murat was defeated at Malo-Yaro-
slavets on the 24th, and an unsuccessful stand was made at Yiasma on the
3rd of November. On the 6th a winter peculiarly early and severe, even
for Russia, set in — the thermometer sank 18° — ^the wind blew furiously —
and the soldiers, vainly struggling with the eddying snow, which drove
against them with the violence of a whirlwind, could no longer distinguish
their road, and, falling into the ditches by the side, there found a grave.
Others crawled on, badly clothed, with nothing to eat or drink, frost-bitten,
and groaning with pain. Discipline disappeared — the soldier no longer
obeyed his officer ; disbanded, the troops spread themselves right and left
in search of food, and as the horses fell, fought for their mangled carcases,
and devoured them raw ; many remained by the dying embers of the
bivouac fires, and, as these expired, an insensibility crept over them which
soon became the sleep of death. On the 9th of November Napoleon
reached Smolensk, and remained till the 15th, when he set out for Krasno^.
From this time to the 26th and 27th, when the French crossed the Beresina,
all was utter and hopeless confusion ; and in the passage of that river the
wretched remnant of their once-powerful army was nearly annihilated —
the exact extent of their loss was never known, but a Russian account
states that 36,000 bodies were found in the river alone, and burnt after the
thaw. On the 5th of December Napoleon deserted the survivors. On the
10th he reached Warsaw, and on the night of the 18th his capital and the
Tuileries. The army that had so well and enthusiastically served him was
disposed of as follows : —
Slain in fight 125,000
Died from fatigue, hunger, and the severity of the climate 132,000
Prisonei-s 193,000
460,000
The remains of the grand army which escaped the general wreck (inde-
pendently of the two auxiliary armies of Austria and Prussia, which knew
little of the horrors of the retreat) was about 40,000 men, of whom it is
said scarcely 10,000 were Frenchmen. Thus ended the greatest military
uigitized Dy s^jkjkjw^ik-
22 L-^Bistoncdl ifoUce. Sect. 1.
catastrophe that ever "befell an army in either ancient or modem times.
To return to Napoleon. Europe was now exasperated, and comhined
against him ; and though in the following spring he gained the battles of
Lut2en and Bautzen, and on the 27th of AliguSt that of Dresden, fortune
deserted him on the 18th of October of the same year on the field of
Leipsic. On the Rhine the Allies offered him peace atid the etnpire of
France, which he refused, and on the 31st of March, 1814, Alexander had
the satisfaction of marching into Paris at the head of his troops. After
the general peace in 1815 the Emperor devoted himself to the internal im-
provement of his country, making many judicious alterations in the
government, in which he evinced much liberality of feeling. He had good
abilities, but not brilliant talent, and his greatness of mind was not fully
developed till the invasion of his country by the French ; this aroused all
his energies, and exhibited him to the world conducting himself with con-
summate discretion and unflinching steadiness of purpose in that alarming
crisis. His disposition was kind and generous, his manners mild and
amiable, and his moderation prevented him from ever abusing his Tin-
limited power. Under the influence of his mother and the empress, the
levity and extravagance of the court were materially repressed. Attended
to the last by his wife, he died of erysipelas, in a small.and humble dwell-
ing near Taganrog, when on a tour of inspection through the southern
provinces of his empire. When the news of his death spread over his
vast dominions, he was universally deplored, and the murmiu of regret
in other countries responded to the grief of Russia.
The subsequent history of Russia is within the memory of the present
generation, and we need, therefore, only give a summary of the principal
events in chronological order.
Alexander I. was succeeded by the Emperor Nicholas on the 25th
December, 1825 ; Constantine, his elder brother, having married a Polish
lady and resigned the crown. The natural order of succession having been
broken and Nicholas proclaimed, St. Petersburg became the scene of a military
revolution, which was suppressed by the Emperor in person. The troops
had been excited to revolt by the members of a wide-spread conspiracy
for introducing a constitutional form of government. When the leadere
cheered their men on with the cry of Constitutsia ! the soldiery believed
they were fighting for Gonstantine*s wife. This outbreak made a deep im-
pression on the mind of the Emperor, and had great influence on the system
of government by which his reign is best known. Nicholas declared war
against Persia, which terminated in 1828 by the payment of a large in-
denmity on the part of the Shah. A war with Turkey followed, and was
closed by the Treaty of Adrianople, 1829, by which Russia acquired a con-
siderable augmentation in territory on the coast of the Black Sea and other
advantages, in addition to a certain amount of influence in the Danubian
principalities. An insurrection broke out in Poland in 1830, and was sup-
iressed, after a hard struggle, in 1831 (vide Poland). The territory ceded
y the Treaty of Adrianople having included the Caucasus, the Emperor
Nicholas had recourse to arms in order to bring the independent races of
that mountainous region to submission. By a treaty signed at Constanti-
I
Ki
.nsBia.
1. — Historical Notice*
23
nople on the 8tli July, 1833, between Russia and Turkey, the Porte
engaged, in return for the military aid of Russia against the Pasha of
Egypt, to close the Dardanelles against all foreign vessels of war. The
I^eace between the Sultan and the Pasha having again been disturbed in
1839, the Ottoman empire was placed, on the 27th July, 1839, under the
common safeguard of the five great European Powers, instead of exclusively
under the protection of Russia. This was followed by a convention,
signed at London on the 15th July, 1840, " for maintaining the integrity
and independence of the Ottoman empire, as a security for the peace of
Europe." In 1844 the Emperor Nicholas visited England. In 1849 Russia
assisted Austria in repressing the Hungarian insurrection. A dispute
between the Greek and Latin Churches relative to the guardianship of the
Holy Places produced demands on the part of Russia which the Porte refused
to admit. Thereupon the Russian troops, amounting to 80,000, entered the
Moldo-Wallachian provinces in July, 1853. The combined fleets of Eng-
land and France entered the Dardanelles on the 14th October, at the request
of the Sultan, and on the 1st November Russia declared war against Turkey.
The Turks then crossed the Danube, and conducted a campaign against the
Russians with much bravery and success. On the 30th November the
Turkish fleet was destroyed while at anchor in the harbour of Sinope, not-
withstanding the declaration on the part of Russia that she intended only
to act on the defensive, and to repel the advance of the Turks into the
Principalities. The combined fleet was immediately ordered into the Black
Sea, and hopes of a peaceful termination of the difficulty were abandoned.
The Russian ambassador quitted London on the 4th February, 1854.
France and England declared war against Russia respectively on the 27th
and 28th March. Odessa was bombarded on the 22nd April, after an
English flag of truce had been fired upon. The * Tiger* steam^frigate
stranded near Odessa, and was captured after an attack by the artillery on
land ; the flag of one of her boats fell into the possession of the Russians.
The allied squadron anchored off Eupatoria on the 13th September, and
next day landed their troops at about 12 miles below that town. The
battle of the Alma was fought on the 20th September.
The following account of the battle of the Alma is condensed from
Lient.-Col. Hamley*s * Story of the Campaign of Sebastopol :* —
The allied army, having landed, on
the 14th Sept., at a place about 12 m.
below the town of Eupatoria, com-
menced its march on the 19th at 7 in
the moniing. In all, the British mus-
tered 26,000 men and 54 guns ; the
French 24,000 men and about 70 guns ;
and the Turks 4500 men, with neither
ravahry nor guns. At night the Allies
bivouacked on the Bulganak. The
next moniing, between 9 and 10 o'clock,
the army marched onward for about
2 hoozs under a bright sun. The front
of the Allies was oblique, the Turks on
the right being about 2 m. in advance
of the British left. Surmounting the
grassy ridges which formed their hori-
zon, the scene of the coming struggle
disclosed itself to them. The plain,
level for about a mile, sloped gently
down to a village, beyond which was
a valley sprinkled with trees, and
watered by the river Alma. On the
opposite side of the stream the bank
rises abruptly into steep knolls, termi-
nating in plateaux, behind which rises
another and higher range of heights.
Both these ranges were occupied by
masses of Russian troops, numbering
altogether, according toGen.Todleben.
24
1.— ^fl««fo)icaZ Notice,
Sect. I.
33,600 men of all arms and 96 guns.
Such was the position in front of the
British. In fit)nt of the French, who
formed the centre of the line, the first
range of knolls grew more and more
abrupt. These were defended by in-
fantry, and field-artillery were posted,
with more infantry, on the plains at
the top of the heights.
The French advanced steadily and
incessantly, and attacked a small tele-
graph station on the plain at the top
of the heights, and succeeded in plant-
ing their fiag upon it. During the
attack on it, the right of the British
had gradually come under the fire of
the heavy artillery on the knolls.
Pennefather's brigade of the 2nd divi-
sion, advancing in line along the slope
of the plain, lay down near the walls
of the village for shelter from the de-
structive fixe of the enemy, and then
moved onward to the river ; while the
light division, passing into the valley,
on the left of the second, pressed on
until they passed the river, nearly up
to their necks, and then began to
ascend the slopes beyond, which were
held by the Russian battalions.
The battery now in front of them,
covered with a thick low bank of earth,
swept the whole front of the British,
and its fire was crossed by that of the
guns from the knolls, which searched
the village and ploughed up the plain
beyond it. A wide road, bounded by
low stone walls, leading to a bridge
and a ford, intervened between the
1st and 2nd divisions ; and the latter
point, being nearly intermediate be-
tween the principal lines of fire, was
probably the hottest of the cannonade.
Many of the 55th fell there, before
advancing into the villages. To oppose
the Russian fire, some guns were at
last brought into action on the OT)posite
bank, and their fire took the Kussian
centre and guns in reverse, while the
French, pressing up the heights, had
driven back the left. The Russian
artillery now began to retire, soon after
followed by covering masses of in-
fantry. It was at this moment that a
brigade of the light division, consist-
ing of the 7th, 23rd, and 33rd regts.,
very gallantly led by Gen. Codrington,
advancing up the slope, under a terrible
fire of musketry, took a gun from the
epaulement or low wall of earth al-
ready mentioned ; but, with a loss of
600 killed and wounded, the brigade
was forced to retire down the slope
and re-form under cover of the attack
of the first division, which had been
led across the river by^the Duke of
Cambridge to support them. The 7th
Fusileers, going up to the breast-
work with a cheer, retook and kept
possession of the Russian gun; the
33rd and 95th came to the support of
the 7th ; the 19th and 47th also ad-
vanced ; and after a terrible slaughter
the Russians were driven back. Sir
George Brown rode gallantly in front
of his light division and fell in front
of the battery. The 55th. and 30th
regts., coming up on the right of the
95th, drove ^k the enemy on their
own front, and the 3 British brigades
formed line on the ground they had
won.
The battle had thus rolled back to
the right rear of the Russians. On
the extreme right of their original
position, at the top of the heights, was
a battery behind an epaulement, with a
flank for 7 guns, thrown back to pre-
vent the right being turned. The
brigade of Highlanders, under Sir
Colin Campbell, being on the left of
the British line, formed themselves,
when the 1st division crossed the river,
directly in front of this battery, which,
before it followed the other guns in
their retreat, poured upon them during
their gallant advance a heavy but
ill-directed fire, doing them but little
damage. At the top of the hill they
met some battalions of the enemy still
showing a front, and compelled them
to retreat with the loss of a good many
men ; and two troops of horse-artillery,
which had crossed the river higher up,
coming into action, played upon the
retreating masses with great effect.
Thus ended, after a contest of 3 hours^
the battle of the Alma.
The retreat was effiected in good
order, with the loss of 2 gims and
Prince MenschikofiTs carriage with hia
Digitized Dyvj WW viCO *•"***«
Bussia.
1. — Htdancal Notice.
25
papers. The loss of the Allies was
about 3000 in killed and wounded.
Gen.Todleben attributes the loss of
the battle mainly to the superior dis-
cipline and arms of the Allies.
Prince Menschikof^ having made
good his retreat to Sevastopol, caused
its fortifications to be strengthened by
Todleben, and ordered Admiral Kor-
nilo£f to sink his sauadron in the road-
stead. On the 23rd the Allies reached
the Katcha and encamped there, with-
out finding the enemy as they had
expected. On the 24th they bivouacked
near Belbek. Meanwhile Prince Men-
schikoffhad quitted Sevastopol in the
night, to proceed with his aimy to
Bakhchisarai by the Mackenzie road,
leaving only 16,569 fighting men in
garrison, and losing some carriages
with baggage and ammimition on the
plain. Gen. Todleben is of opinion
that neither the exaUation of the
Bussian troops, nor their resolution to
fight to the last, would have been able
to save Sevastopol if the Allies had
attacked it immediately after the pas-
sage of the Tchemaya. However that
may be, the AlUes moved on the 26th
September towards the east, in the
direction of Mackenzie's farm, and suc-
cessfully accomplished the manoeuvre
of transferring the army from the N.
to the S. side of Sevastopol.
On the 26th Balaclava harbour was occupied. Sevastopol was attacked
by sea and by land on the 17th October. The Light Cavalry charge of
^laclava was made on the 25th October ; out of 607 men only 198 re-
turned. While the siege was progressing large reinforcements were pour-
ing iqto the Bussian camp. The Bussians attacked Uie English positions
in front of Inkermann on the 5th November, but were compelled to
letreat.
' The following account of the battle of Inkermann is likewise condensed
from Lieut.-Col. Hamley's « Story of the Campaign of Sebastopol :* —
During the night of the i-5th of
November the Bussians had assembled
in force in the valley of the Tchemaya
between Inkermann and the harbour.
The olnect of their enterprise, accord-
ing to General Todleben, was to drive
back the right wing of the besiegers
and take firm possession of the ground
occupied by tibem between the town
and the shore. A force of 18,929
men and 38 guns was to start at six
in the morning for ' Careening Bay,'
and to be joined by another body of
15,806 men and 96 guns passing over
the bridge of Inkermann. On their
junction they were to be under the
command of General Dannenberg;
while Prince Gortschakoii; with 22,444
men and 88 guns, was to support the
attack and endeavour to efiect a di-
version. This plan was not entirely
carried out, for the body of 18,929
men proceeded to a different side of
the ravine from that originally con-
templated, and thus prevented the
mecutated junction.
lttifnd-.1868.
At dawn they made their rush upon
the advanced posts of the second di-
vision posted on the crest looking down
into the valley, and which fell back
fighting. upon the camp behind the
crest, 1200 yards in rear. The out-
posts being driven in, the hill was
occupied by the enemy's artillery and
guns of position, which commenced a
heavy fiie down the face of the gentle
declivity, crashing through the tents
left standing below. Captain Allix,
of General Evans's staff, * was dashed
firom his saddle, not far from his own
tent, by a round shot, and fell dead.
The plan of the Bussians was, after
sweeping the ridge clear by their
heavy concentrated fire, to launch
some of their columns over it, while
others, diverging to their left after
crossing the marsh, were to have
passed round the edge of the cliffs
opposite Inkermann, and turned the
rfritish right. The artillery fire had
not continued long before the rush
of infantry was made. Crowds o*'
26
1. — Historical Notice^
Sect. 1.
skinnishers advancing through the
Coppice came on in spite of the case-
shot) and passed within the British
line, forcing the artillery to limber up
and retire down the slope. Two com-
panies of the 55th, lying down behind
a small bank of earth, retreated as the
Russians leapt over it, firing as thev
went back, and halted on a French
Regiment that was marching up the
hifl. The Russians retreated in their
turn, and the French, with General
Pennefather riding in front, went gal-
lantly down the slope under the tremei^-
dous fire, driving the enemy before
them. Almost simultaneously with
this attack on the centre, a body of
Russians had passed round the edge of
the clii!^ and met the Guards there,
who had thrown themselves into a two-
gun battery on the edge of the slope
opposite the ruins of the old castle,
with the Grenadiers extending to the
right, the Fusiliers to the left, of the
battery, and the Coldstreams across
the slope towards the British centre.
The Russians came on in great num-
bers with extraordinary determination.
The Guards, having exhausted their
ammunition, attacked the Russians
with the bayonet, and, after losing
nearly half their number, were com-
pellea to retire, but, being reinforced,
returned and drove the enemy out of
tl^e battery.
Four or the guns of Towns^nd's bat-
tery of the fourth division, which
came up at the left of the position,
were taken by the Russians almost as
soon as unlimbered, but some of the
88th and 49th retook them before they
had been many seconds in the enemy's
hands. In all these attacks on the
!^ritish right, the Russians were pre-
yented from turning that flank by
Oodrington's brigade of the light di-
vision jested on the further bank of
the ravine. When the Russian infan-
try was driven back, a cannonade re-
commenced along their whole line, to
which the British guns replied warm-
ly, though overmatched in metal and
numbers. The ships in the harbour,
«nd the battery at the Round Tower,
threw shot and shell on the slope,
is cannonade was tiie preface to
another infantry attack, which now
again threatened the British right, at
that moment absolutely without de-
fence. By advancing resolutely the
enemy would have turned it, but the
men who had retreated- from the low
entrenchment already spoken of ral-
lied and lay down under it. Then
reinforcements arrived for the support
of the remnant of the defenders of the
2-gun battery. These fresh troops at
once charged the enemy, routed them,
and pursued them to the very verge of
the heights, When, returning victori-
ous, they found the battery, as they
repassed it, again occupied by Rus-
sians, a fresh force of whom had
mounted the cliff from the valley. It
was while collecting his men to meet
this new and unexpected foe that Sir
George Cathcart was shot dead.
At this juncture the remainder of
Bosquet's division came up on the right,
and, passing at once over the crest,
threw themselves into the combat,'
and, fighting side by side with the
British troops, pressed the Russians
back. A tremendous cannonade was
now again opened by the Russians, and
replied to by English and French bat-
teries of artillery and two I8-pounder8
ordered up by Lord Raglan. Between
these two opposing fires of artillery, a
fierce desultory combat of skirmishers
-went on in the coppice. Regiments and
divisions, French and Engli^, we:^
here mixed, and fought hand to hand
with the common enemy. About noon
the fire of the Russians slackened, and
further French reinforcements took up
a position on the hill. The battle was
now prolonged only by the efforts of
the Russian artillery |o coyer the ?e«
treat of their foiled and broken bat<
talions. At three o'clock tiae French
and English generals, with tiieir staffs,
passed along the crest of the disputed
hill, and half an hour after the whole
force of the enemy retired across tiiie
Tchemaya.
Until the arrival of the fourth
division and the French, the ground
was held by about 5000 British troops,
presenting a thin and scattered line,
while the body of Russians immedi-
ately opposed to them was, according
Russia.
1. — Historical Notice.
27
to General Todleben, 15,000 strong.
In all, 8000 English and 6000 French
were engaged. The total Bnssian force,
estimated hj Lord Raglan at 60,000,
is put down by General Todleben at
34,835, of whom 6 generals, 256 offi-
cers, and 10,467 rank and file were
pnt hors de combat — more than double
the loss of the Allies. The loss of the
battle is attributed by General Todle-
ben to the want of simultaneity in the
advance of the Bussians (owing to
conflicting arrangements in starting
from Sevastopol), the superiority of
the French and English small-arms,
and the omission of the Russian ar-
tillery to follow and support their
infantry.
Lar^e trenches were dug on the
ground for the dead; the Russians
lay apart, the French and English
were ranged side by side.
A- hurricane destroyed a great amount of shipping in the Black Sea
on the 14th November, causing the Allies to suffer considerably from
the want of supplies. General Todleben now assumed with much
success the direction of the defences of Sevastopol, and soon gained
great renown ; the Allies in the mean while were repulsed in a naval
attack on Petropavlofski, in the Pacific. In 1855 Sardinia joined the
Allies with a contingent of 15,000 men. On the 17th February the
Russians made a formidable attack on Eupatoria, defended by the
Turks imder Omer Pasha and by a French detachment, but were
obliged to retire with great loss ; the intelligence of the repulse reached
the Emperor Nicholas but a few days before his death, which took place
very unexpectedly on the 2nd March. A conference was soon after opened
at Vienna with the object of concluding peace, but after sitting six weeks
it was dissolved without any satisfactory result. The war, however, was
being actively prosecuted. The second bombardment of Sevastopol was
opened at daybreak of the 9th April, 1855, and produced no decisive result.
The third bombardment commenced on the 6th June, and was followed
next day by successful attacks on the Mamelon and Quarries. General
Liprandi having attempted to raise the siege, the battle of the Tchemaya
was fought on the 16th August, and resulted in the complete success of
the French and Sardinian troops engaged in it. On the 5th September an
"infernal fire" was opened .by the AlSes and kept up until the 8th, when
the French stormed the Malakoff and the English the Redan, which was,
however, abandoned after an unequal contest of nearly two hours. The
French loss on that day amounted to 1489 killed, 4259 wounded, and 1400
missing ; and the English to 385 killed, 1886 wounded, and 176 missing ;
the Russians, according to their own account, losing 2684 killed, 7243
wounded, and 1763 missing. The south side of Sevastopol being no longer
tenable, the town was evacuated during ihe night; the magazines were
exploded, the fortifications blown up, and the ships in the harbour sunk.
The Allies took possession of the ruins next day. The operations of the
Anglo-French squadron in the Baltic consisted, in 1854, of a reconnaissance
off Cronstadt by Sir Charles Napier, and a boat action at Gaml^ Karbely, in
the Gulf of Finland, when the paddlebox-boat of the 'Vulture' drifted on
shore and became a prize. The flag of this boat is shown at St. Petersburg,
being, together with that of the * Tiger's ' boat, the only English colours
preserved in Russia as military trophies. ITie forts of Bomarsund, on the
Aland Islands, were captured on the 15th July, 1854, by a French force of
10,000 men and a small contingent of English marines and seamen. In
1855 the Baltic fleet bombarded Sveaborg and cruised off Cronstadt, under
c 2
28 h— Historical Notice. Sect. I.
the command of Admiral Dundas and Admiral Penan d. The war in Asia
terminated with the surrender of Kars to General Mouravieff. By the
intervention of Austria, preliminaries of peace were agreed upon at a
meeting of pleni|)otentiaries at Paris on the 26th February, 1856, and peace
was signed on the 30th March and ratified on the 27th April following.
By that treaty the territorial integrity and the independence of the Ottoman
empire were recognised and guaranteed. Hussia and Turkey mutually
agreed not to keep in the Black Sea more than six steam-vessels, of 800
tons at the maximum, and four light steam or sailing vessels, not exceeding
200 tons. The navigation of the Danube was opened to the vessels of all
nations, and the Russian frontier in Bessarabia was rectified. No exclusive
protection over the principalities of Moldavia and Wallachia was in future
to be admitted ; and in case of the internal tranquillity of the principalities
being menaced, no armed intervention can take place without the general
sanction of the contracting Powers.
The Emperor Alexander II. was crowned at Moscow on the 7th September,
1856. His accession was marked by the introduction of vast reforms in
the administration. Corruption was prosecuted and punished. The army
waa reduced to the lowest limits compatible with the dignity and safety of
the country, and the term of military service was shortened. Railways were
projected and commenced, and commercial and industrial enterprise of every
kind was liberally promoted in view of restoring the prosperity of the empire,
much impaired by the war. Overtrading, however, induced by an artificial
encouragement, added its disastrous effects to financial embarrassment, and
assisted in depreciating the currency of the country, no longer metallic.
New loans were made, and a system of financial publicity was adopted. But
the most gloiious monument of the reign of the Emperor Alexander II.
will ever be the emancipation of the serfs. Their manumission had been
frequently contemplated. The delegates in Catherine II. *s parliament had
suggested it ; Alexander I. had counsellors who ardently desired to see
its abolition, and even the Emperor Nicholas had contemplated a more
mitigated form of personal bondage. In 1838 a section of the nobility
petitioned for its entire abolition. In 1852 the Minister of the Interior
actually drew up a plan of gradual emancipation, which was to hay« beea
carried into execution in the spring of 1854. In 1859, the nobility of the
province of Lithuania having ofi'ered to free their serfs, the Emperor
Alexander II. convoked a commission at St. Petersburg, which was charged
with the preparation of an act of general emancipation. This was pro-
claimed on the 3rd March, 1861, when all the serfs (about 23 millions)
acquired personal liberty and civil rights. A period of two years was
allowed for the appropriation of land to the peasants, who have acquired
the ''perpetual usufruct" of the houses and plots of ground which they
occupied at the time of emancipation ; the allotments of land being, how-
ever, circumscribed by a scale which varied according to the locality and
quality of the soil. The compulsory appropriation to each peasant varied
from a minimum of 1 dessiatina (2^ acres) to a maximum of 12 dessiatinas
in the steppe districts. In the central parts of Russia the extent of the
allotments was, on an average, about 4 dessiatinas (10 acres) to each pea-
sant. Beyond this, the enfranchised serf is permitted to acquire additional
ands on terms of mutual agreement with the landed proprietors. Those
Eossia. 1. — Historical Notice. 29
terms were r^ulated by a body of officials, called '' Arbitrators of the
Peace,", who drew up and registered the deeds of sale or lease. The
Government in such cases advanced the purchase-money to the peasant
by the issue of redemption-bonds, bearing 5 per cent, interest, and is
refunded by a series of payments extending over a certain number of years.
The communes being responsible, as corporations, to the State for such
repayments, their members are circumscribed in their liberty of locomo-
tion until they have paid their share of the heavy liability incurred. It
is calculated fiiat the Government will have advanced 300 millions of
rubles in these transactions, by which each peasant is enabled to become
an independent and considerable landed proprietor. The larger estates of
the nobles are in the mean while to a great extent deprived of agricultural
labour, and are being very generally thrown out of cultivation or partially
farmed out to the peasantry. In the ancient provinces of Poland, since
the insurrection which broke out in Poland and Lithuania in 1863, the
proprietors are forced by ukaz to cede such portions of additional lands as
the peasants may desire to purchase ; but the measure has not been applied
to Itussia Proper, llie emancipation was carried out peaceably, with
only a few partial agrarian outbreaks, produced chiefly by erroneous
interpretations of the law.
Among the many other important reforms which followed the Act of
Emancipation we may signalise the introduction- of new courts of law on
the basis of open trial by jury, which came into operation at Moscow and
St. Petersburg during the course of 1865, and in other parts of the empire
later. Corporal punishment was abolished in 1863, and the penalty of death
is now only inflicted on the sentences of courts-martial in cases of incen-
diarism and other crimes requiring special measures of repression. The
Jenvi has entirely disappeared as an instrument of punishment. The dis-
abilities of the Jews have been removed ; the commerce of the country,
although still retarded in its development by one of the worst Customs
Tariffs in Europe, has been relieved of many oppressive regulations, and
thrown open to natives and foreigners alike ; municipal charters have been
conferred on St. Petersburg and Moscow ; the liberty of speech and thought
denied under the previous reign may now be fully exercised, except in the
form of public meetings for political purposes ; and the censorahip of the press
has been reduced to a mitigated form. Public instruction is being vigor-
ously pursued, and education brought within the reach of the humblest.
The Universities and superior schools have been remodelled and deprived of
their once semi-military character. A classical system of education is being
promoted, and the clergy are being raised socially and intellectually. These,
and many other wise reforms of the Emperor Alexander II., too numerous
and complex here to be specified, form, as it were, the basis of those Repre-
sentative Institutions with which the edifice of government will sooner cr
later be crowned.
Among the events in Russian history that have occurred since 1865 may
be mentioned the attempt on the life of the Emperor by Karakozoff on the
4-l6th April, 1866 ; the marriage of the Tsesarevitch Alexander with the
Princess Dagmar, sister of the Princess of Wales, and the visit to Russia of
H.R.H. the Prince of Wales, on the occasion of the marriage, in November,
1866 ; and th§ second dastai-dly attack on the Emperor at Paris, by Bere*
30
2.Stati8tic8.
Sect. I.
zowski, in June, 1867. His Imperial Majesty was invested with the Order
of the Garter by Earl Vane on the 16-28th July, 1867. In 1866 a squadron
was sent out by the Government of the U. S. of America, with Mr. Fox as
envoy, to convey to H. I. M. the congratulations of the people of the United
States on his escape from assassination. This complimentary mission v^as
preceded by the visit of Mr. Atkinson, Mayor of Hull, who delivered to
H. I. M. an address on the same occasion, from the Town Council and
Chamber of Commerce of Kingston-upon-Hull.
2.— STATIBTICa.
The Area and Population of the Hussian Empire are shown in the foU
lowing Table taken from the Beport of the Central Statistical Committee
for 1858.
Sq.Geog.
Mllea
Male.
Female.
Total.
Bussia in Europe . . . .
CaucRfliis
Bussia in Asia
Kingdom of Poland . . . .
Grand Duchy of Finland . .
90,134
8,034
262,746
2,258
6,870
29,367,422
2,247.172
2,163,099
2,298,113
818,274
29.963,330
2,061,348
2,067.839
2,466,333
818,275
59.330,752
4.308,520
4,230,938
4,764,446
1.636,549
Total .. ..
370,042
or
7,770,882
Eng. sq. m.
36.894.080
37,377,125
74,271,205
It will be seen that the population of Russia is veiy unequally distri-
buted, being at the rate of 706 inhab. to the sq. m. in European Russia,
524 inhab. in the Lieutenancy of the Caucasus, 16 in Asiatic Russia ;
while Poland has 2110 inhab. to the sq. m., and Finland 238.
In Russia Proper (about 59 millions) the population professing the Busso-
Greek religion numbers about 51 millions ; the Dissenters are estimated
at about 802,000. The Roman Catholics form a total of 3 millions, the
Protestants 2 millions, the Jews If million, the Mahomedans 2 millions,
and Idolaters about 200,000. The class of nobles, including Government
functionaries, is estimated at nearly 900,000 ; the clergy at 611,000 ; the
inhab. of towns at 4,700,000; the military (including families) at 4 mil-
lions ; and the peasantry at 49i millions. The foreigners residing in Rus-
sia, irrespective of those who have taken the^ (>a|J^ qf^^J^^^ce to the
'i:mperor, number 86,611. '^ '' ^ ^
Eussia.
2.— Statistics.
81
The Budget for 1867 anticipated the following revenue and expendi-
ture : —
1. Bevenue :
Direct taxes .. '.. 52} million rouhles.
Indirect taxes 174f „
Duties and stamps 12f „
Boyalties (post and telegraph , &c.) 17| „
Btate domains 63 „
Miscellaneous receipts 46| „
Bevenue of the Traiiscaucasus .. 3} ,,
Portion of Budget of Poland .. 16} „
Total ordinary revenue
Extraordinary revenue (loans)
Special receipts
Grand total of revenue
387 millions (53}^. mill at 88J.).
40i
16
i43i milUons (612. mill.).
This Revenue was to have been expended as follows in 1867 : —
Public debt, repayment of, and interest
Superior State Departments
Church, pay of Clergy, &c
Imperial Household (Civil List) .. ..
Foreign Affairs
Army
Navy
Finance Department — Cost of collecting
taxes ; pensions, &c 65}
State domains 7
Home Office 15f
Public Instruction 7|
Public Works 22}
73| million roubles,
li
9
2i
120}
16i
Posts and telegraphs
Justice
Audit Office
Imperial studs
Poland
Transcaucasus
14i
8J
If
0}
20
4i
Total ordinary expenditure .. 398 J million roubles (54 JZ. mill.)*
Extraordinary expenditure —
Construction of railways 25} „ „
Special expenditure 16 „ „
Ajitioipated deficit in receipts .... 4 „ „
Grand total of expenditure . . 443f million roubles,
From an account of the actual appropriation of the votes taken on the
Budgets, published in 1866, for the period between 1832 and 1861, it is
apparent that the yearly deficits between the revenue and the expendi*
32 ^,— Language, Sect. I.
ture of tlie Russian Empire are very considerable. The following are tlie
deficits officially shown since 1853 : —
1853 51 million roubles.
1854 123J „
1855 261| „
1856 265f „
1857 38J „
1858 5 „
1859 5i „
1860 .. .. • 51i „
1861 2J „
Bui the financial expedients to which the Russian Goyemment have bad
recourse between 1862 and 1866, in order to cover the difference between
the ordinary revenue and the gross expenditure, show that the actual
deficits for the last five years have not been much under 100 million
roubles per annum (about 14 millions sterling).
Russia is divided in matters of education into six districts, with gym-
nasia and schools, frequented by 1,155,773 scholars. In 1866 the number
of scholars in village, parochial, and national schools amounted to 928,000.
3. — ^Language.
The Russian language belongs to the south-east group of Slavic languages,
to which belong also the Bulgarian language (with its obsolete dialect^
the ancient or ecclesiastical Slavonian, now the liturgic language of all the
Slavonian-speaking followers of the Eastern Church) and the Serbian or
Illyric, with its numerous dialects spoken throughout a great part of Turkey,
and to a considerable extent in the empire of Austria ; while the north-west
group of the same family comprehends the Polish, Bohemian, and Lusatian
languages, with their dialects. The Russian language presents three
dialects — the Little Russian, which is spoken in the south-west provinces
of Russia (Volhynia, Kief, Chernigov, Poltava, Kharkof, part of Voronej,
Ekaterinoslaf, Kherson, the Taurida, Podolia, and part of Bessarabia) ; the
"White Russian dialect, spoken in the provinces of Mohilef and Minsk, ia
the greater part of those of Vitejisk, Grodno, and Bialostok, and in a small
part of the province of Vilna ; finally, the Great Russian or Russian proper,
'which is the official and literary language, as also that of a large majority
of the population. The total of the Slavonian-speaking population amounts
to 55,600,000, of which more than 35,000,000 use the Great Russian dialect,
llie difference between these three dialects, however, is not so great as to
prevent the people s[jeaking the Little Russian or the 'White Russian from
understanding the Great Russian, so that it may be said that the Russian
language is spoken from one end of Russia proper to the other. Even the
Pole and the Russian can understand each other to a certain extent.
The Russian language is extremely copious and flexible ; its grammatical
construction is somewhat complex, and offers many difficulties to a foreigner,
owing to the great variety of inflections peculiar to some parts of speech,
and to the absence of such other elements of speech as are in other Euro*
ean languages considered quite essential in ordeF to^attain precision.
Buflsia.
3. — Language.
33
Thus nouns, pronouns, and adjectives, are declinable in seven caaes ;
adjectives have a full and contracted termination ; the diminutive, aug-
mentative, and deprecative terminations are next in expression, strength,
and grace only to the Italian ; but there is no article, — a deficiency which
causes great perplexity to a foreigner. Again, the Russian verbs are to a
foreigner most difficult of comprehension, for they are quite different in
system from anything that exists in the Western languages :— namely, the
verb, while denoting in its inflections the numbers, persons, and in some
cases even the genders, has only three tenses, and the deficiency of the
other tenses is partly made good by so-called modes, which determine
the frequent or unfrequent, precise or unprecise mode of an action, partly
redeemed by an almost unlimited freedom of inversion, which, however,
can afford but little help to one not perfectly conversant with the language.
The Eussians have an alphabet different from that used in the rest of
Europe. The invention of this alphabet (which is called KirUlitsa) is attri-
buted to St. Cyril and Methodius, who lived in the 9th centy., and are con-
sidered as the principal apostles of the Christian faith among the Slavonian
tribes, and who translated the Holy Scriptures, or at least some parts of
them, into their native language ; for which purpose they are said to have
compased an alphabet, or rather to have adapted the Greek alphabet, with
the addition of a certain number of new characters for such sounds as were
peculiar to the Slavonian language, and for such as they found no signs in
the Greek alphabet. These characters are now only used in printing
devotional books. The characters in general use were introduced by Peter
the Great ; they are the same Cyrillian alphabet, with the omission of a
few unnecessary letters, and somewhat remodelled so as to resemble more
closely the forms of the Latin characters.
The sounds of the thirty-six letters of which the Russian alphabet is
composed are given below in English characters. Throughout this work
Russian sounds, absent in the English language, have been rendered by a
simple combination of English letters, to be pronounced as in the Italian
language : d^ as in far, 6 as a, i as ee, u as oo.
A a a, has the sound of a in £etr.
6 d
b^
b
bay.
B B
ve
V
vale.
r r
i\ A
S :
1
day.
E e
e „
e
met.
m m
je
z
azure.
3 8
ze
z
zeal.
H R
i
e
me.
tt 11
i
y
coy.
I i
i
e
me.
R K
ka
k
keen.
A I
1
1
lay.
11 M
m „
m
may.
II II
n „
n
nay.
o
o
open.
U n
P
P
pay.
P p
r
r
ray.
C c
S n
s
say. .git
T T,m
t
t
tay. '
dbyGoOgl^
c 3
84
3. — Language,
Sect. I*
y y
X X
^ ^
in m
m m
!> I
bl u
B h
■B
a
K)
e
V
h „ oo book,
f „ f fat.
khi, „ h aspirated,
ts^ „ ts in its.
ch^ n ^^ chaio,
sha „ sh shade,
stcha ,t sch discharge,
yer has no sound — a semi-vowel,
yery has something like the sound of e in ble, die.
yer has no sound — a semi-vowel used to soften
consonants.
^ \ have the sound of a in any,
yil ;, u unit,
ya „ ya yam.
f<6 „ I feet.
i „ 6 me (seldom used).
The following are a few words and phrases which the traveller may find
uiioful, if pronounced according to the sounds given above.'*'
The Emperor
The Krapress
The Crown Prince
A Grand Dake
A prince
A count
A noble
J>ir or Mr.
The head of a village
An employ^
A peasant
Ditto
The police
A blacksmith
A drosky or sledge-^
driver J
A coachman
A postilion
A waiter
A porter
A water-caiTier
A foreigner
Chief city /
A town I
A street
A cross-street
A square
A market
A row of shops
A shop
A quay
A gateway
Outer door
Tsar,
Tsaritsa,
Tsesarewtch,
Veliki Kniaz,
Kniaz.
Gr&f,
Dvoryomin,
Gospodin,
Starosta,
Chinovnik.
Krestianin,
Mujik,
Politsia,
Kusnets.
Iswstchik,
Kutscher,
Yamschik,
Chelovek,
Dvomik.
Vodovos.
Inostranets,
Stolitsa,
Gorod,
Ulitsa.
Pereuhk,
Plosckad,
Rinok.
Biad.
Zafka,
Naberejnaya,
Vorota,
Fodyezd,
An island
A garden
Afield
A cathedral
A church
A belfry
A cemetery
Altar-screen
A monastery
A palace
An hotel
A i^taurant |
A i-oom at an inn
A dressing room
A ladies' room
A house
A courtyard
A villa
A room
A chemist's
The parade-ground
A barrack
A fort
A bridge
A river
A village
A road
A hill
The bath-house
A post or railway'i
station /
The Great Bazaar
Ostrof.
Sad.
Pole.
Sobor.
Kolokolnia.
KladbishcM,
Ikonostaa,
MoncLstir,
Dvorets.
Gostirmtaa.
" Pestoran " or
Trakiir.
NomeTf
Ubomaya,
Barm.
Dvor,
Dacha,
Komnaia,
Aptika,
PlatZ'parad,
Kazarma.
Krepost or " Fort:
Most.
Eeka.
Deremia.
Doroga,
Gora,
Pania.
Stantsia.
GosttJinoi-Dvor.
• The best Russian vocabulary is CJornet's. Reirs • Manual of the Russian Language » and
i'a * Russian Grammar/ may likewise be consulted. The best dictionary is ReifrsT^ *
Bussia.
3.
^Language.
The Exchange
Bifja,
Wine
Vino.
The Embassy Posolstvo,
English Ambassador Angliski Fosol
Com brandy
Beer .
Vodka.
Pico. ,
English Consul
Angliski Consul. Coffee
Koffi.,
American Minister
; Americansky
lannik.
Pos- Tea
Sugar
Chai.
Sahar.
American Consul
j Americansky
\ sul.
Con- Water
A glass of water
Vodd.
Stakan vodi.
To write
Pissat,
Hot water
Goriatchei vodi.
Paper
Bvanaga,
Cold water
Bblodnoi vodi.
Ink
ChemUa,
Salt
Sol.
Pen
P€ro,
Pepper
Pereta.
PencU
Karandash.
Vinegar
Uksus.
To eat
Kusshat,
Mustard
Gorchitaa.
To diink
Pit.
Atnink
Sunduk.
To break&st
Zavtrakat.
Portmanteau
Chemodan.
Breakfast
Zavtrak.
Travelling-bag
Meshoh.
To dine
Obedat.
Box or case
Yaschik. '
Dinner
Obed.
A tea-um
Samovar,
To sup
Ujinat.
A tea-pot
Chainik.
Sapper
Ujin.
A pail
Vedro.
A poi-tion
Portsia.
A bottle
ButUka.
Soup
Sup.
A glass
Stakan.
An ice
Morqjenwye,
A cup
Chaahka.
Cabbage soup
Stchi.
A wine-glass
Biumka.
Pie
Pirog.
A plate
Tarelka.
A roast
Jarkoe.
A knife
Nojik.
Beef
Goviadina.
A fork
Vilka.
Veal
Teliatma,
A spoon
Loshka.
Alutton
JSarantnci,
A table
Stol.
Cutlets
« Cotekttes."
Abed
Postal.
Beefsteak
'^Bifstek."
Sheets
Prostiny.
Fish
Ryha.
Pillow case
Navolotohka,
Ham
Vetchina.
An utensil
Gorshok.
A fowl
Kwitsa.
A stove
Petchka.
A chicken
Tseplenok.
Fire
Ogon.
Ahare
Zaiets.
A candle
Svetchka.
A partridge
Kurapatka,
Matches
Spitchki.
Hazel -grouse (^Te
'\ Biabchik.
A napkin
Salfetka.
A duster
Triapka.
Blackcock
Teterka.
A hat
Shliapa.
Capercailzie
Glukhar.
A fur cloak
Shuba.
Potatoes
Kartoffel.
An overcoat
Paletot.
Peas
Gorokh.
A coat
Surtiik.
Cucumbers
Ogurtsi.
Trousers
Pantahny,
Peans
Grushi.
A pair of boots
Sapogi.
Apples
Tabloki.
A bath
Vanna.
Nuts
Orekhi.
A basin
Umivalnik.
White bread
Bely-khleb.
A towel
Polotenzo.
Black bread
Chomi-khleb.
Soap
Mylo.
Pancakes
Blinni.
A dressing-gown
Khalat.
Cheese
Syr.
Washerwoman
Pratchka.
Butter
Maslo.
A boat
Lodha.
Efi:gs
Tditsi.
A caniage
Kareta.
Cream
Milk
Slifki.
Mohko.
iree. -«--^4&e
S5
36
3.-
-Xan^iio^e.
Sect. I, 1
The pole Dishio,
Ice
Liod, 1
The wooden arch|
Half
Poforina. '
over the horse's 1 r»..^,
head in a drojky ■^"^*-
A quarter
Chetvert.
Great
Bohhoi,
or sledge, J
Little
Maloi.
A cord Ven'ovka,
An axe 2'opor,
Beautiful
( Prekrassnoi (fem,
\ -aya).
A ship Korah,
Old
Staroi (fem, -aijd).
A steamer Parohod,
New
Aocot (fem. -aya).
A»'>-«y {'"^:^^'
Father
Mother
Otets.
Mat.
Pospe8hny,ovPotch-
Brother
Brat.
Fast or express ti-ain
tooy (Post)
Po-
Sister
Sestra.
yezd.
Wife
Jena.
A horse Loshad,
Husband
Mij.
Horses Loshadu
Ooitch, or evitc)
, son of-^as Pavel (Paul),
Hay 8em,
Pcnhvitch.
Straw Solbma.
Ovna, or evna.
daughter of— as Feodor,
A hook ^ni/ii.
Feodorovna.
A snow-stoiin
Viiigay or Jfe^e/.
Dialogues.
I am an Englishman
I am an American.
I do not speak Russ.
VVhei-e does the j^grijjan ^'onsul reside ?
Where is the English Church?
Good day.
Good night.
Good bye.
Yes
Ko
Good, yery well
Not good, not well
Bring
For
More
Less
That
Enough
Not enough
Too long
Give
Give me
Give us
Now
It cannot be done
Do better
If you please.
Thank you.
-» is there ?
Vee, sir.
Ya AngUdianin. '
Ya Americanets.
Ne govoriu po rttsski,
<^<^^ i^* -^^ (^<^^^
Gd€ Anglxshaya Tserhofi
Sdravstvuite,^
Dobraya notch.
Prostchaite,
Da.
Net.
Horoslio.
Ne horosho,
Prinesi.
Dlia.
Estcho.
Menshe,
Etto.
Dovolno.
Ntfdotolno.
Otchen Dolgo.
Dai.
Dai mne.
Daite namm
Tipper.
Nelzia.
Zdelai Jutche.
Pojalusta.
Blagodariu — Spas8ibo.
Khto tarn i
Sdess.
Uigitized Dy VJ
OO'
gle
Bnssia.
d.-^Language. 3^
Come here.
Padisudi.
Hollo! here.
Poslwhi.
I come directly.
Seichas pridu.
1 hear and obev.
Slus/Miu.
Directly.
^eichas.
" 1 clothes ?
Give soap.
Dal mi/lo.
Let as go Ton foot).
Let us go (in a cairiage).
Poidem,
PMem,
Goon.
Poshol.
Drive gently.
Tfslie.
Never mind, or nothing.
Nichiho.
HuiTy quick.
Skorei,
Drive &ster.
Poshol skorei.
Have a care.
Beregiss,
Give room, give place.
Padi, padi.
To the right.
Na pravo.
To the left.
Na levo.
Go further on.
Poshol dakhe. •
Drive home.
Domoi.
I'T
Stoi,
Tell me.
SkajUe'Tnne,
What is it?
Ckto takoei
How do they call it?
Kak zavutf
Whatdoesitcost?
Chtostoiti SkolkostoU.
How much the ai-shin ?
Potchom arshin ?
How much the pound ?
Potolumfufdi
It is dear.
Eto dorogo.
It is much.
Eto mnogo.
It is cheap.
Dechevo (dioslievo).
Can you give change ?
Sdachi yest f
Ne znayu.
Xot wanted. '
Nenado,
1 won't have.
Ne hochu.
Is it ready?
Gotovolif
i^theioirnm.
Postav samovar.
Give us a spoon.
Dai loshku.
What's to be done.
Cktodelati
What's o'clock?
Katori chass i
It is 1 o'clock.
Tepper chas.
!!"! "
Tepper dva chasd.
It IS 3 „
Tepper tri chasd.
It IS 4 ^
ItisS „
Tepper chetyr€ chasd.
Tepper piat chasof.
(The latter termination is us^d fcr the re<
mainder of the hours).
Haveyouaroom?
Yest-linomerf
Empty thrt.
Oporojni,
Oeanthat.
Chisti.
Dry that
Prosushi,
Inhowmany honn?
Cheres skolko ohasajf
» Intpoaaible?
Mojnolii
Where is the inn?
Qde Traktirf
How many vei-sts?
Where is the landlord?
Skolko verst ? , ^ ^ Cooalp
Gd^hoziain, g'-dby^OOgie
88
Where is my servant?
Where is the waiter ?
Waiter!
I will pass the night here.
When do you stait?
To-day.
To-morrow.
In an hour.
It is time to be o£f.
Bring the bill.
The bill is too heavy.
It must be reduced.
T, . cold
Bring ^ water.
Which is the way to ?
Pray show me the way.
What kind of a road is it ?
Are the horses to ?
What is to pay for them ?
Drink money.
Tea money.
I will give you drink money.
I will not give you drink money.
What will you charge ? (To a droshkyl
or sledge driver).* J
No, I shall only give 20c., &c.
What station is it ?
How long do we stop ?
Where is the refreshment-room ?
Where is the W. C. ?
Where is the telegraph-office ?
Where is the luggage ?
The luggage is lost.
Give me a ticket.
First class.
Second class.
Smoking compartment.
Is smoking allowed ?
Can hon>es be obtained at the station to
go to — ?
How far is from the station ?
How far can I book ?
I wish to telegraph.
To the station master.
3. — Language,
Sect. L
Gd^ moi chelovekf
Gd€ cheUmekt
Chehvek 1
Zdess nochuyit.
Kogda wy uyedete ?
Segodnia:
Zavtra.
Cheres chass,
Pora yehat,
Prinesst schot
Schat alishkom velik,
Nado sbavit,
^ . . ..holodnoL
Pnnesn vodt
goriachai,
Katoroi darogoi mne itti — ?
Proshu pokasat mne darogu,
Kakova daroga f
Zapriajini'li-loshadi ?
Skolko progon ?
Na vodka.
Na Choi.
Dam na vodH,
Nedam na vodkit,
Za skolko ?
Net, Dvadsat kopeck, 4c,
Kakaya Stantsia ?
Skolko minuti
GdeBuffetf
Gde Otk/iojie mesto ?
Gde telegraph ?
Gde bagaj f
Bagaj pottfrian.
Dait€mn^ billet,
Pervi class,
Vtoroi class,
Kur%telnoy€ Otd^l^niif, '
Kw'it mojno ?
Mojno-li loshddH dostat na Stantsii
chtob yehat v ?
Daleko-li ot Stantsii f
Do kotoroi Stantsii mogii poluchit billet f
Sochu telegraphirovat,
Nachalniku Stantsii,
Names of the Months, Days op the Week, &c.
Januaiy
Janvar.
February
Fevrail,
Maich
Mart.
April
Aprel.
May
Mai.
Juue
Ian.
July
m. '
August
Avgvst,
• In engaging a droshky or sledge driver, it is merely necessary to mention the name of the
street, square, &c., Tvith the addition of tlie question skolko— how much? A baivain then
•nsiies, wljich generally terminates in the driver running afM'We°^&feller with the worts
fiU%y pajaluit^~~f* Very well, come in."
Eussia.
4.-
"Literalure. 39
September
Sentiabr,
October
Oktiabr.
Winter Zima,
November
Noiabr.
Summer X^o.
December
Dekabr.
A year God,
Monday-
Ponedelmk.
A month MesiaU.
Tuesday
Vtomik.
A week Nedelia.
Wednesday
8ir€da.
A day Den,
Thursday
Chetverg,
An hour Chasa,
Friday
Fiatnitaa.
Half an hour Polchassa,
Sfttorday
Subota.
The Numebals.
one, odm.
twenty-one, dvatzat-odm.
two, dca.
twenty-two, doatzat'dv& ;
three, tri.
And so on, always adding the unit up
four, chetiri.
•
to ten, and then
^vejpiat.
thirty, tritaat.
six, shest.
forty, joro^.
seven, sem.
fifty, pia^swi.
eight, vosem.
sixty, ahesdesiat.
nine, deviat.
seventy, semdesiat.
ten, dedat.
eighty, vosemdeaiaU
eleven, odinrnatzat.
ninety, devianosto.
twelve, dvi-natzat ;
one hundred, «^o.
And so on, always adding
natzat to
five hundred, piatt sot.
each number up 1
to
one thousand, ^»5ia^(^.
twenty, doatzat»
•
4.-
-LiTERATUBE.
The modem literature of Russia dates, as almost everything else in
modem Russia, from the political and intellectual reforms effected by Peter
the Great. After the liberation of Eussia from the Mongol yoke, which
had for several centuries completely arrested the intellectual development
of the Russian nation, the Muscovite Government and the mdre enlightened
citizens became conscious of the necessity of restoring science and art.
The task was a difficult one. They could no longer look to Constantinople,
from whence at an earlier epoch Russia had received the first rudiments
of Christian civilization ; science and art had fled from Byzantium to the
West of Europe ; and from immediate intercourse with tnese, Russia was
shut out by her geographical position, and still more perhaps by difference
of religion and by the animosity of powerful neighbours. Polish letters
were the only channel through which Western civilization exercised some
amount of influence on Muscovy. Indeed, at Kief and in several other
cities in the Russian provinces then incorporated with Poland, schools were
established, where classical studies were conducted on the same plan as in
the West. In these schools were formed most of the writers of the sixteenth
and seventeenth centuries, and even later, many of the contemporaries of
Peter the Great, among whom we will only name the most zealous partizan
of reform, the Archbishop Theophanes Procopovitch. These schools were
also taken as a model for the tirst classical school established at Moscow,
40 4. — Literature. Sect. I.
under the name of the Latino - Greco - Slavonian Academy. It is
from Poland also that the first essays of a drama were introduced
into Russia, in the form of miracle plays, which, from the ecclesiastical
schools of Kief, Wilna, and Moscow, penetrated into the houses of some
rich boyars, and even into the palace of the Tsar. But although the
influence of Poland and of Polish letters on the literature of Bussia
cannot be denied, there were two circumstances which did not allow it to be
so great or so beneficial as might have been expected : firstly, Polish letters
were then in a complete decline, owing to the lifeless scholasticism intro>
duoed by the Jesuits, under whose sway society had fallen; secondly,
the obstinate efforts made by the Roman Catholic aristocracy and clei^y
to bring the Russian subjects of the republic within the pale of the Church
of Rome, produced a violent struggle and engaged all the best intellects of
the country in religious controversy. The printing offices of Kief, Wilna,
Lemberg, &c., on which the reading public of Muscovy chiefly depended
for books (the printing office established at Moscow being appropriated
almost exclusively to the use of the Church and the Government), produced
scarcely anything except devotional books and controversial tracts. Thus
Polish influence not only failed to free the literature of Russia from its
most exclusively devotional and ecclesiastical character, but, on the con-
trary, strengthened it in that direction. A more direct communication
with the civilised world alone could have put an end to that state of things,
and have roused the nation from its secular intellectual slumber. This was
felt by some of the Tsars of Moscow, and they tried to undertake the task.
Boris Godunof sent young noblemen to study abroad ; he is even said to have
contemplated the establishment of a university at Moscow. In general,
however, these efforts of the Tsars were of a veiy timorous nature,
and they were frequently frustrated by the animosity of jealous neigh-
bours. Many instances are recorded of professional] men, engaged for the
service of the Tsar, having been prevented by the Polish or Livonian
authorities from proceeding on their way to Moscow. At length Peter the
Great did in a violent way what his predecessors had been unable to do by
milder means. He broke through the wall which had hitherto separated
Russia from Western Europe, and forced his nation into the main diannel
of European civilization. In the execution of this plan he exhibited the
same restless activity, the same faculty of taking an interest in the nriost
minute details of a scheme, which he showed in his other acts. Not con-
tent with issuing general measures for the diffusion of knowledge among
his subjects, with erecting new schools and reforming old ones, with pre-
paring the plan of an academy of sciences (which was however opened only
after his death), he also found leisure to choose the books that were to be
translated (generally elementary books of science), and sometimes to revise
translations and to inspect their printing. It is even related that he
corrected the proofs of early numbers of the first newspaper published by
his ordera at Moscow in 1703.
The first classical writer and reformer of letters in Russia was Lomo-
nossof, the son of a fishei*man at Archangel, who flourished in the reign of
the Empress Elizabeth, a man remarkable lor the universality of his genius
and acquirements. Having left his home as a boy of seventeen, he studied
first at Moscow and Petersburg, and finally at the universities of Germany ;
m his return to Petersburg he was appointed professor of chemistry to the
Bufifiia. 4. — Literature. 41
Academy of Sciences, and devoted his whole life to the promotion of
science and letters in his country. He was not a poet in the modem and
stricter acceptation of the word; and his odes, his tragedies, and his
unfinished epic poem are little more than clever and well-written imita-
tions of German and French models. However, he is not quite un-
deservedly considered as the creator of the modem poetry of Russia, for
it is he who banished the clumsy syllabic verse which had been introduced
from Poland, and replaced it by the tonical prosody which is used until
now, and which has proved so congenial to the Russian language. He
also rendered great services to the language by rejecting from it, although
not completely, numerous ecclesiastical Slavonian expressions and forms
which had crept in under the influence of ecclesiastical writers, and by
tracing a line of separation between the two languages. But his most
important right to the gratitude of his country is his having been an
indefatigable champion of science ; he was alternately grammarian, philo-
logist, lustorian, chemist, natural philosopher, metallurgist, statistician, and
worker in mosaic ; his name appears in the beginning of ahnost every
branch of knowledge and art ; he was, to use the words of a great writer of
more recent date, *' the only promoter of science in Russia in the period
between Peter the Great and Catherine II."
At a time when the whole of Europe was under the influence of the
artificial pseudo-classical school of France it is not surprising that Lomo-
nossof submitted to the same sway, and that his example engaged in the
same direction a host of less gifted writers, with whom literature became a
mere rhetorical exercise, a childish aping of French models. A profusion
of epics, tragedies, odes, &c., appeared eveiy day, and Russia in the
raptui-es of her newly won civilisation, boasted alr^y of possessing her
own Comeilles and Racines, Yirgils and Yoltaires, whose works, however,
can now scarcely be got through, even by those who devote themselves to
the historical study of literature, if we except Derjavin, the first Russian
poet of eminence, whose odes and other lyrics, although not free from the
rhetorical bombast which was then held to be poetry, present many flashes
of a genius i)owerful and truly poetic, and which will save his works from
oblivion, notwithstanding their many defects. Satire and comedy were the
only kinds of literature at that time, and these, although strictly imitative
in their forms, were of some originality as to their content*. The comedies
of Von-Wisin, those of the Empress Catherine II., the satirical essays of
Novikof and his imitators, the fables of Khemnitzer, are until now read
with pleasure as interesting illustrations of the manners and ideas of their
epoch. Von-Wisins comedy of *The Minor' still appears on the stage
from time to time.
A new period in the literature of Russia begins with Karamzin. In one
sense he may be called the continuator of Lomonossof s reforms, for, while
he still more strictly separated the vernacular Russian from the Slavonian
language, he also banished the heavy Latin phraseology introduced by
Lomonossof, and replaced it by the more simple and natural construction
of modem languages. He thus created in Russia an elegant literary style
adapted to the wants of modem civilization. On the other hand, he
abandoned the pompous rhetoric of his predecessors, and introduced the
sentimentality which was in such vogue in Europe at the end of the
eighteenth and in the beginning of the present century. By his periodicals,
42 4. — Literature. Sect. I.
in which he published his * Letters of a Traveller ' (a lively and brilliant
description of his tour through Europe), sentimental tales, original as well
as translations, and popular scientific and critical essays, he more than any
other writer contributed to spread a taste for reading among the public. In
the task of popularising literature he was much assisted by Dimitrief, who
did for the language of poetry what Karamzin had done for prose writing.
A further step in this direction was taken by Krylof, whose fables are
equal to any similar productions in other countries, and are justly
considered as most perfect models of elegant and idiomatical language.
A similar style is met with in Griboyedof's comedy * Sorrow comes from
Wit/ a most telling satire on the society of Moscow, which was greedily read
and learnt by heart many years before it was allowed by the censor
to appear on the stage or in print. Great influence on the literature of
Russia was exercised by Jukovski, who, by his masterly translations of some
contemporary English and German poets, introduced into Russia the then
arising romantic school of poetry. At the same time Martinof, by his
translations of Greek classics, and especially Guaditch, by his able transla-
tion of the * Iliad,' gave to their countrymen a more correct idea of the true
character of classical poetry.
But the great national poet of Russia is Pushkin. His works are very
numerous and varied. After having been an imitator of Byron in some of
his earlier poetical tales (* The Prisoner of the Caucasus,' * The Fountain
of Bakhchisarai,' *The Gipsies'), he exhibited in his more mature works a
truly original and national genius, which fully justified the admiration
which is paid to him by his countrymen. His poetical novel (* Evgheni
Oneghin '), a tale of a Russian homme hlme, ofiers lively and interesting
pictures of provincial and metropolitan life in Russia. His * Boris Godunof '
is a magnificent historical drama, after the model of Shakspere's plays, repre-
senting Russia at the highly interesting time of the appearance of the first
false Demetrius. Among his other works we shall only tx)int out his poem
* Poltava,' some fine dramatic sketches (* The Stone Guest,* * Mozart and
Salieri,' * The Covetous Knight'), and a delicious story in prose, * The Cap-
tain's Daughter,' presenting a pictm-e of provincial life in Russia at the time
of the Pugatchef rebellion. A great number of Pushldn's lyric pieces re-
commend themselves as well by vigour of thought and deep feeling as by
elegance of style and melody of verse. Lermantof holds the next place after
Pushkin in the consideration of his countrymen, and, indeed, although he
died before his talent had come to full maturity, the vigour of thought and
passion, and the strength of expression, which unite in his poetry with an
exquisite harmony of versification, would undoubtedly have gained him a
prominent position in any literature.
Of other modern poets, the most remarkable are Baratinski, Yazikof,
Khomiakof, Countess Rostopchin, the peasant poets Koltsof and Nikitin.
Among living poets we may mention Maikof, Stcherbina, Nekrassof (a most
bitter satirist), Polonski, and Count A. Tolstoi, author of an historical drama,
* The Death of John the Terrible,' which has had a great success on the
stage.
A writer whose popularity and whose influence on the literature of his
country are equal, if not even superior, to those of Pushkin, is Gogol, tbe
reat humourist of Russia, a man who possessed to a high degree the art, to
ehis own expression, of " laughing a laugh under which are bitter tears;'*
Eussia, 4. — Literature. iS
to analyse " the mud of trifliDg things with which life is shackled ; to ex-
pose the triviality and meanness of life and of man," — ^such is the usual
theme of his works, and this theme he realizes with striking truth and
inexhaustihle humour. His chief works are a comedy, * The Reviser,' which
holds permanent possession of the stage, and is considered as the b^t
comedy in the Russian langui^e, and a tale entitled * The Dead Souls/ of
which an English translation has been published*
As almost all the modem poets of Bussia are more or less indebted to
Pushkin, so the influence of Gogol may be traced in a greater or smaller
degree in almost all the branches of Russian novel- writing. The modem
novel-writers who hold the highest place are Turguenief, Gontcharof,
Fisemski, Dostoievski, and Count A. Tolstoi.
The writing of historical novels, which had been quite abandoned for
some years, has been resumed by Count A. Tolstoi, who has published an
historical romance describing the epoch of John the Terrible, and by Count
L. Tolstoi, whose romance entitled ' War and Peace' purports to represent
the social life of Russia during the first quarter of the present century.
Of modem comedies those of Ostrovski alone deserve to be mentioned.
Scientific literature can be but poor in a country where science has been
introduced so recently, and where, until of late years, literature has been
imder the control of rigorous censors. The history of Russia is almost the
only branch of science in which some remarkable original works are to be
found. The first, most celebrated historian in Russia is Karamzin, who, in
his * History of the Russian State,' gave for the first time a trae work of
science and art, and not, as his predecessors Tatischef and Prince Stcher-
batof, a crude and clumsy digest of the old chronicles and annals. Not-
withstanding the progress made by historical investigation since it was first
published, his work is until now not only widely read by the general public,
but even studied and considered as a book of reference by every writer on
national history. Among the numerous more modern historical writers, we
shall only name.Polevoi JSolovief (Professor at Moscow, whose work is now
considered the best history of Russia), Ustrialof (author of a very detailed
history of Peter the Great, of which only a few volumes have as yet been
published), Kostomarof (author of several historical works on Little Russia
before its incorporation with Russia, on the ancient municipal constitutions
of Novgorod and Pskof, on the false Demetrius, &c.), Beliayef, Stohapof
(author of a good work on the Russian dissenters) ; Miliutin, Minister of
War, author of a work on the Italian campaign of Suwarof, and Bogdano-
witch (a history of the war of 1812).
Until a very recent period, all the other branches of scientific literature
were almost exclusively (and even now are to a great extent) supplied by
translations from foreign languages. It was in the reign of Catherine 11.^
whose influence on the intellectual development of the Russian people was
very marked, that translations began to be cultivated. They continued
with great activity during the first jjart of the reign of Alexander I. ; but in
the last years of his reign this activity was arrested by a sudden increase of
the severity of the censorship, which, far from abating in the reign of
Nicholas, grew at last to such a system of censorial terror, that not even the
most innocent novel could be translated without considerable mutilations.
Under the more liberal system which has been inau|umted during the
present reign translations are again published with gi-eat activity. The
44 6. — Measures^ Weights, and Coins. Sect. I.
works of Macanlay, Buckle, Adam Smith, J. Staart Mill, and many other
standard English works, may now be read in the Russian langus^e.
The present period is marked by a cultivation of political writing, most of
the intellect of the country being absorbed in administrative reforms. The
political economists and statists form a comparatively small school, but are
nevertheless well known to the scientific societies of Europe. The news-
papers employ a very considerable number of writers. The foremost journal
is the * Moscow Gazette,' with a circulation of about 15,000. The only
other newspaper of any note at Moscow is the * Moscow,' supported by the
Panslavist and Protectionist parties. At St. Petersburg each minister of
state has his organ. The * Journal de St. Petersbourg' is the mouthpiece
of the Imperial Foreign Office. Of the monthly magazines the most im- '
portant are the * Moscow Herald,' conducted by Mr. Katkef, and the
* Hemld of Europe,' conducted by Mr. Stassulevitch. The scientific pub-
lications of the War Office and Admiralty, and the Reports of the Minister
of Public Instruction, are of high interest. The several scientific societies of
Russia publish jouruals, whose valuable contents are almost entirely lost to
Western Europe, owing to the language in which they are edited.
Although the periodical press is no longer subject to a preventive censor-
ship, yet it is far from being free: it is under the control of the Minister of
the Interior, and the system of avertisftements and suspensions^ which haa
been borrowed from France, weighs somewhat heavily upon it.
5.— Measures, Weights, and Coins.
Measures op Length.
dium = 1 inch Eng. = 0*0254 metre.
12 dium = 1 foot „ = 0-3048 „
versliok = 1*75 inch Eng.
16 vershoks = 1 aj-shin = 28 inches Eng.
3 ai"shins = 1 sajen or fathom = 7 fget Eng. = 2' 1336 metres,
(N.B. a nautical sajen has 6 feet).
500 sajens = 1 verst = 0*66 or } mile Eng. = I "06 68 kilom.
2400 sq. sajens s 1 desiatina = 2*86 acres Eng.
Measures of Capacitv,
shtof = 1 vedro.
8 shtofs = 1 vedro = 3*25 galls, wine, and 2*66 galls, beer measure Eng. =
0.1230 hectolitre.
Dry Measure.
gaitieis = 0*34 peck Eng.
8 garaels = 1 chetverik = 2*73 pecks or 68 bushel Eng.
8 chetveriks = 1 chetvei-t or quaiier = 5*46 bushels Eng.
Weights.*
1 zolotnik = 2*41 drams avoirdupois = 4265 milligrammes.
96 zolotniks = 1 funt = 14*43 ozs. arordupois, or 0.40952 kilo.
40 pounds = 1 ptid = 36*08 lbs. „ „ 19 kilo. 372.
10 puds = 1 berkovets = 360*80 lbs. „ „ 163 „ 720.
• The principal weights and measures will probahly soon iM'^^^B&S^ll^e^'orf^e basis of the
metrical system.
Eussia. 5. — MeoBures^ Weights, and Coins, 45
(7o*w«.— The coinage of Russia is decimal; thus — 100 copecks- make
1 rable. The ruble, of which the standard is silver, contains about
18 grs. of pure silver, and an alloy of about 13 per cent., or 83^ in 96. Its
IMir value in English money is 38^, but the rate of exchange has occa-
sionally lowered it to 25<^.
The only silver money in circulation are pieces of 20, 15, 10, and 5
copecks. The intrinsic value of these coins was reduced by 12 per cent, in
1860. The copper tokens range between 1 and 5 cops.
The lower classes, particularly in the interior of Russia, still speak of the
" Grivna," an old coin of the value of 10 cop. Thus, " Grivennik " is 10
cop., and " Dvugrivinny " 20 cop.
Taken at par the sovereign is worth 6 rs. 28 cops., and the shilling
31 cops ; but the rate of exchange enhances their nominal value in paper
currency.
The paper-money in circulation is inconvertible, but has a forced cur-
rency. Tribe notes represent 100 rubles ; 50 rs., 25 rs., 10 rs., 5 rs., 3 rs.,
and 1 ruble, and are plainly stamped with their value. Those recently
issued are very elaborate in design, and bear portraits of Russian sove-
reigns.
The Treasury Bonds are for 50 rs., and bear 4J per cent, interest.
Hussian paper-money may now be freely exported and imported.*
Example to find the value of 50 rubles Russian money in British
sterling, at the rate, say, of Z2d, to the ruble ; —
Bable. Fence. Rubles.
1 = 32 X 50
50
12)1600
20)133 4
Aiwwer £6 13 4
or 60/. in Russian rubles at the same rate : —
Pence. Copecks. Pence.
32 = 100 X 12,000 =
100
£50
32)1,200,000(375.00
96
240
224
160
160
000 Ansujer R. 375.00 Cop.
* Travellers will receive the current value of their money in Russian mbles, and vice versft,
at the frontier staUons at Wirballen and Eydlcuhnen. It is, however, best to cany only the
«UDoaut strictly requisite, and to keep the rest in circular notes, or with a twnker at St
Petersburg or Moscow.
46 5. — Measures, Weights^ and Coins, Sect. I«
The value of a sovereign in Russian tnotiey^ at the exchange of 32(^., will
be found thus : —
i*eiloe; dtfpecks. i^encet
32 = 100 X 240 s 20i.
240
d2)24,000(7»So
224
160
160
AnsiJoer Rs. 7.50.
Digitized by VjOOQLC
Bussin. . 5. — Meagures, Weights, and Coins.
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48
5. — Measures, Weights, and Coins.
Sect. I.
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5
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5. — Measures, Weights, and Coins.
19
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50
5. — Measures^ Weights^ and Coins.
Sect. I.
^
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r— t
ai
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Cr"
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i^QOO^OOO'^QOO'^i^OOO^QOO'^OOO'^OO
ao'COOeOCOOCOCOOeOCOTHfHOOCOeOOOOlACQ
r-l fH rH rHf-<i-li-<
^i-Hi-lr-l
'^00 0'^QOO'«OOO^OOCO!44C4 0QO;OtHO<I
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Russia. 7. — Custom-Tiousea.
6. — Passport Regulations.
By an ukaz of the 31st December, 1864, foreigners arriving in Russia,
either by sea or by land, with passports duly vised at one of the imperial
Embassies, Legations, or Consulates (in London, 32, Great Winchester-
street, City), may reside in any part of Russia, and travel throughout the
empire, with the same passport for the term of 6 months. The passport
must be exhibited on arrival to the local authorities (through the hotel-
keeper, to avoid inconvenience), who will register it. Should the traveller
desire to stay longer than 6 months, a regular passport for residence
must be applied for at the Alien OfiBce. Travellers who have not
stayed in Russia beyond the term of 6 months may leave the empire, by
sea or by land, with their national passports, after a second visa by the
authorities to the effect that there is no impediment to their leaving the
countrj'. The latt-er regulation is intended to prevent the absconding of
debtore, or of parties in a criminal or civil suit, before the verdict of the
Com-t.
Obs, — The principal formality which the traveller has therefore to observe
is, to have his passport vised by a Russian diplomatic or consular ofiBcial.
The rule applies equally to Finland and. Poland. The passport regulations
are now more strictly applied than ever, particularly at St. Petersburg,
notwithstanding that in every other country on the Continent the passport
system, so obnoxious to the modern traveller, is almost entirely abolished.
Tourists should keep this in mind, for any neglect of the Russian regula-
tions is visited with severe discomfort, if with nothing more.
7. — CuSTOM-HoUSES,
Travellers will meet with every civility at the hands of the Russian
Custom-house ofiBcers. Although the tariff is still highly protective, persons
evidently travelling for pleasure, and not for the purposes of trade, are very
little molested by the search for articles liable to duty. There has hitherto
been some difficulty in passing books, maps, guides, and other products of
the press, but a recent regulation permits the introduction of all such
printed works as Continental travellers are in the habit of carrying with
them, excluding the publications of the Russian revolutionary press in
London and elsewhere. Travellers are cautioned against introducing the
latter works. Bibles and Prayer-Books are not touched, nor need the
Handbook be any longer concealed. When the books are in large parcels,
they will be forwarded by the frontier authorities to the Censorship Com-
mittee at St. Petersburg, by which they are examined, and ultimately
restored to the owner. Engfish and foreign newspapers are not seized, as
formerly, when used as wrappers. Scaled letters, lottery- tickets, playing-
cards, and books of an immoral or irreligious tendency, are liable to seizure.
Pire-arms cannot be introduced into Russia and Poland without special
licence.' Travellers coming to Russia for the purpose of shooting should
deliver up their guns to the Customs' authorities, by whom they will be
forwarded to the place of destination, there to be applied for^g^jj^val. The
proper office will be indicated, and a receipt will be given. ^
«twia,— 1868. ^ '
52 8.— Postage. Sect 1.
The proceedings of Government officials are far stricter in Poland than
elsewhere in the Russian dominions, andtheir searchings are tedious, both
at the frontier and the entrance to Warsaw. The oflScers are, however,
civil and courteous as long as the traveller is so, and a Custom-house
officer cannot have much to say to a person whose baggage is confined to
his own personal requisites.
N,B. — Any well-founded complaints against officers of Customs will be
strictly inquired into and redressed by His Excellency the Director of
Customs at St. Petersburg, to whom representations should be addressed.
8.— -Posting,
In order to travel post in Russia, it is necessary to have a podorqfna, or
order for horses, in which is inserted the name of the place to which the
traveller is going, the distance in versts, and the number of horses required.
The cost of the podorojna depends on the number of versts and horses, at a
rate which varies from IJ cops, to 5 cops, per horse, according to the
locality. This document is obtained from the governor of the town which
the traveller is leaving, or at an office specially appointed for the purpose. On
making the application it is necessary to produce a passport. The greatest
care must be taken of the podorojna, and it should be kept at hand, for it
will be required at each post-station as an authority for the postrmasters to
furnish horses; and, if mislaid or lost, the unfortunate owner will be
obliged to continue his journey with a peasant's horses, subject to all his
caprices as to charge, hour of starting, and distance of each day's journey.
A table showing the distance from one station to another is hung up in
every post-house, frequently a mere hut ; also the charge for each, horse is
stated. A book is likewise kept in which travellers may enter their com-
plaints. Should any difficulties arise, a request to see this book m^ have
some effect upon tibe dilatory and extortionate post-n>aster. This oflacial is
bound to furnish at least the number of horses ordered in the podorojna ;
but he may oblige the traveller to take more if the roads require it, and this
he does sometimes to the extent of making him journey with 6, and in very
bad roads 9 horses ; he may also, and often does, on the cros&-roads, affirm
there ai-e no horses left but those which he is bound to keep for the mail
or Government courier. A little persuasion will however generally secure
the requisite number of quadrupeds. The drivers expect a fee of 10 to
20 cops, for the stage, according to its length. This varies greatly, viz.
from 12 to 30 versts. Many of the post-masters in the South of Russia are
Polish Jews, and, though not more rapacious than their Christian brethren
of the same trade, are quite as bad.
The traveller should take especial care never to travel post just before, or
immediately after, a courier or other man in authority. The saving in
time and temper will be considerable if an avant courier is employed when
travelling in the steppe. The speed when posting is sometimes great, the
horses going ventre a terre ; but so much time is lost at the post-houses in
changing, that, including stoppages, the traveller will not clear much beyond
8 or 9 miles an hour. If the traveller is not provided with his own carriage,
-* should he not bonow or hire one at the place of starting^ he must content
Bussia. 9. — Cuisine and Bestaurants. 63
himself with the accommodation afforded by a telega, a small open wajrpjon
without springs, but strongly constructed, so as to withstand the roads of
the country. The jolting is most painful ; straw, and not unfrequently a
bed, is placed in the cart by Eussian travellers. Gathering up his 6 or 8
reins, for there are 2 to each horse, and grasping his short severe whip, tho
yamstchik leaves the post-house at a furious gallop, and keeping the horses
at this pace nearly the whole stage, not xmfrequently retnms to his station
with one less than he set out wiSi. The kibitka in winter is an improve-
ment on the telega, as it has a hood and an apron.
In the winter sledges will be found even as far South as Odessa, and in
this season from 10 to 12 miles an hour may be accomplished. The price
of posting in the Finnish provinces is, perhaps, rather less than in Kussia.
In the provinces of Esthonia, Livonia, and Courland, a considerable dif-
ference exists, the charges in the latter district being much higher than in
any other part of Bussia. In Poland the charge is 1 zlot (9(^. English^ per
Polish mile of 7 versts for each horse, and about half a zlot for the driver ;
but it is customary to give them 1 zlot per mile. The whole system is
much inferior to that established in Russia, or in the provinces of Livonia
and Courland ; even where the roads are as good as any in Europe, as in
the neighbourhood of Warsaw, the traveller is unable to make much speed,
and the constant delays from the horses not being ready are vexatious in
the extreme. As alterations are frequently made in the post-stations,
and sometimes in the roads, it wiU be desirable for the traveller, should he
purpose visiting the more distant provinces of the empire, to purchase the
printed routes published on authority for the year, and have the names of
the stations read over to him, so that he can write them down in English —
this will preserve him from the idea that he is imposed upon, sometimes as
great a vexation as the reality. The post-maps are very accurate. The
price of the posting is always paid before starting.
9. — CUISINB AND EeSTAUBANTS.
The Btner-k-la-Russe, as known in England, differs widely in substance,
though not in form, from its prototype of Moscow.
The following is the itienu * of a Russian dinner, which the traveller is
invited to read in Russian accents to the proprietor of the " Palkin Traktir "
at St. Petersburg, or to the landlord of the " Novo-Troitski," or the
** Mosoovski Traktir," at Moscow,
J, — Zakuska,
This is the vorschmack (dinette) of most northern nations. It consists
of various relishes, such as fresh caviar, raw herrings, smoked salmon, halyk
(sturgeon dried in the sun), raw smoked goose, radishes, cheese, butter,
and other comestibles. These need not be specified, the word " Zakuska "
comprehending everything of the kind in season. A glass of Kiimmel
(Alasch), or of " Listofka," an excellent spirit flavoured with the young
* It to Kftroely necessair to point ont that this is not the menu of a recherOie dinner, bui
eimply of a repsuat composed excluBivdy of national ptatt.
£ 2
64 9. — Cuisine and Bestaurant$, Sect. I.
leaves of the black currant, is highly recommended. The curious may-
try the other liquors, or vodkas, which will be served up.
//, — The Ohed, or Dinner.
1. Soups: —
Okroshka ; a cold iced soup of kvas (a beverage made of fermented rye),
with pieces of herring, cucumber, and meat floating in it,
Batvenia : another cold soup of green colour, scarcely more palatable.
Stchi : a very go^jd cabbage soup ; the sour cream served round should
be added.
Ukha, or fish soup : this is rather expensive if made of sterlet, but is
very good of ershi, or stone-perch.
Travellers would do well to order small quantities of each description of
potage, in the ratio of one portion for three or four. A mere taste will
suffice in the case of the two cold soups.
2. Rastigai : patties of the isinglass and flesh of the sturgeon. Very
much like mufiins with fish.
3. Solianka, Krasny Ferets: a dish composed of fish and cabbage.
Recommended. Use cayenne.
4. Pojarski^ kotlety : cutlets of chicken k la Pojarski, the patriot. Very
good. Veal cutlets are also a speciality of Moscow.
5. Porosenok pod khrenbm : cold boiled sucking pig with horse-radish
sauce. Not a pretty dish, but very eatable.
6. Barany-bok s-kashoi: roast mutton stuffed with buckwheat. Au
excellent opportunity of tasting the buckwheat, the staple food of tho
country.
7. Jarko^ : the roast, consisting of melody^ t^tei'eva, or young capercailzie
Tup to September) ; riabchik, a kind of grouse (all the year round) ; and
dupelia, or double snipe (in September). Salted cucumbers as salad. Vege-
tables will not be served unless ordered.
8. Pirojno^ ? sweet dishes, Gurief pudding, made principally of buck-
wheat, is not a bad dish.
Order Nesselrode pudding, an excellent combination of plum-pudding
and ices, and Moscovite, something between mi ice and a jelly, flavoured
with the fruit of the season.
. Should digestion require it, the Syr, or cheese from the Zakuska, and
even the caviar, may be served up again, though it is not customary at a
Russian table.
With reference to wines and drinks, it is indispensable, for the sake of
harmony and comparison, to order nothing but what is produced on Russian
soil. The sherry of the Crimea is a very tolerable brown sherry ; the
imitations of Bordeaux and Champagne, provided they are really of the
Crimean grape, not of the manufactories at Yaroslaf, are better tham many
inferior marks of the genuine article. Prince Woronzoff's wines are highly
recommended. The wine of the Caucasus comes in very appropriately as a
Burgundy. Be sure to ask for Kahdtinsko^, a very sound and pure wine.
The ladies will be pleased with Gumbrinskod, a pleasant sweet wine grown
in the Gumbri district of the Caucasus. The champagne of the Don,
Donsko^ Champansko^, very often appears on Russian tables disguised as
'^Ucquot, and is really a very potable wine ; all the sparkling wines of the
Eussia. 9. — Cuisine and JHestaurania, 55
Crimea have a slight taste of apples, and the others have the goiit du
ttrroir.
But besides the wines, there are several delicious beverages, under the
denomination of Kvas. Order lablochni kvas, or cider ; Grushevoi kvas,
or perry ; Malinovoi, or raspberry kvas. The best, however, of all, is per-
haps the goblet of cool Lompopo, the recipe of which is supposed to have
travelled from the Baltic provinces. There is excellent beer to be had at
St. Petersburg. ** Cazalet's or Kalinkinski Pale Ale " is almost equal to
English draught ale. At Moscow " Danielson's " beer is alone drunk.
Mead is likewise very pleasant to the taste. All these drinks are served
in old silver tankards and beakers of German work. Coffee, liqueurs,
and cigarettes complete the feast. Fruits can be had if demanded ;
excellent in season.
The service is very good; the slightest want is quietly and promptly
supplied by the most civil of waiters, attired in bright-coloured silk shirts,
worn over another garment of equal effect and neatness.
The cost of a dinner like that described above, exclusive of the zakuska,
sterlet soup, wines, kvas, coffee, and fruit, will not be less than 2 rs. 50 cop.
per head (7s. 66?:),- and perhaps 5 rs: (15s.) in a dear season. The charf;e
for a plate of sterlet soup is from 1*50 to 3 rs (4s. 6d. to 9s.) according to
the size of the fish ordered.
The wines are very cheap compared with those of France or Spain.
The dinner should, if possible, be ordered a day beforehand, although a
few hours will suffice to secure most of the dishes named. In ordering it,
special mention should be made of the wines of the Crimea, of the Don,
and the Caucasus, as well as of the Kvas, as the former are not generally
kept on the premises. If the party be numerous, two or three rubles
should be distributed among the waiters.
Having finished dinner, the visitor to Moscow should proceed to inspect
the rooms devoted to tea-drinking. A seat close to the barrel-organ is the
best point of observation. While sipping Joltoi Chat, or yellow tea,
observe the bearded natives refilling their small teapot ^vith a never-failing
supply of hot water, soon converted into the palest beverage, sweetened
with the piece of sugar kept in the mouth. The conversations carried
on over the Chai relate to the transfer of rubles for value received or to be
given. Events of a more festive character are celebrated at establishments
where the bottle and the glass replace the more steady teapot, especially
since the price of Vodka has been made very low. Those establishments
need not be inspected ; their effect will be painfully seen in the tottering
moujik and the oblivious woman jolting home in a drojky, or waiting to
be picked up from the g^utter.
The climate must to a great extent be responsible for the habit of
drunkenness unfortunately so prevalent in Russia, for it is older than the
reforms in the excise to which much of it is now attributed. Master George
Turberville, secretary to an English embassy to Moscow in the year 1568,
says of the Russians that they are —
•* Foike fit to be of Baccbiis' train, so quaffing is their Idnde.
Drink Is their whole desire, the pot is all their pride.
The sob'rest head doth once a day stand needful of a K^ej^OQ P
If he to banket Wd his friends, he will not shrinke 5
Ou them at dinner to bestow a dosen kinds of drinke ;
56 10. — Climate, Clothing^ dte. Sect. I.
Such liquor as they have, and aa the oonntnr gives ;
But chiefly two, one called Kwas, whereby the Mousike lives.
Small ware and waterlike, but somewhat tart in taste.
The rest is mead of home-made, wherewith their lips they baste.
And if he goe unto his neighbour as a guest,
He cares for little meat, if so his drinke be of the b^st"
Hospitality is still, as then, one of the chief virtues of the Russian
people.
10.— Climate, Clothino, &c.
The subjoined Table of the mean temperature at various places in Russia,
by Fahrenheit, will give the traveller an idea of the climate of Russia :— -
Annual Winter. Summer.
Mean Temperature. Dec. Jan. Feb. June. July. August
St. Peterebui^ .. + 38*7 .... +18-3 ..•. +60*6
Moscow .. .. +39-6 .... + 14:*7 .... +64*9
Helsingfors.. .. + 38-7 .. .. + 20-5 .. .. + 59-0
Kief +44-4 .... +22-5 .... +65-3
Odessa .. .. +49-3 .... + 25'2 .... + 70*7
Tiflis +55*2 .... + 35»6 .... +73*9
Archangel.. .. +33*3 + 9*3 .... +57*7
Irkutsk .. .. +31'1 .... - 1'3 .... + 61*5
Yakutsk .. .. +11-1 .... -37-9 .... +57-9
The winter season sets in at St. Petersburg about the banning of Novem-
ber, when the Neva freezes, to open again about the end of April. In summer
the prevalent winds are ftom the W., S.W., and N.E., and in winter those
from the S.W., S., and S.E. Paradoxical as it may appear, the cold is in
reality much less felt in Russia than in southern countries. The houses
are adapted to resist the greatest amount of frost, and are even too warm.
It is fallacious to suppose that the cold is ever so intense at Moscow or St.
Petersburg as to prevent people from issuing out into the open air. Twenty-
five degrees below zero of R^umur * is a very pleasant and exhilarating con-
dition of the atmosphere when not accompanied by wind. Even the cold
at Yakutsk, which is sometimes twice as intense as that of St. Petersburg
or Moscow, is quite bearable, for it is seldom accompanied by wind.
Frostbites may be avoided by taking the most ordinary precautions. The
ears are liable to freeze if long exposed. In very cold weather they should
be occasionally rubbed, in order to promote the circulation of the blood.
Snow is the best application in cases of frostbite.
The climate of St. Petersburg is more variable than that of Moscow,
owing to its proximity to the Gulf of Finland. Rain and a complete thaw
will sometimes suddenly succeed 18° of Fahrenheit. Travellers in winter
should, however, take no notice of such variations, but continue to wear
their fur clothing. Any change of dress in winter is sure to produce a
violent cold. Cloaks of the racoon (Shuba) are mostly worn. They may
be purchased in Germany for about 100 thalers, but their quality will be
found inferior to those of Russia. A walking coat thickly wadded, and
with a fur collar, will be found very useful. Ladies wear cloaks or jackets
wadded ^vith eiderdown or lined with fox-skins. A sable collar and muff,
A degree of BtomnTilr is equivalent to about 2J degrees of Fahrenheit, or rather 9° l\=49 R.
Kussia.
11. — Sanitary Peculiaritiea.
67
and a small round hat of sable, complete the winter costume of a lady.
These furs should be purchased at St. Petersburg (at Efimofs, Gostinnoi
Dvor), where they will be found much cheaper, and far better than in
England or in Germany. The journey to St. Petersburg may very well be
made by ladies throughout winter in tnickly wadded coats or cloaks without
fur collars or cuffs, which will only be found requisite in driving or walking.
Boots lined with fur or long boots of felt are indispensable to both sexes
for this journey in winter.
The following table (taken from the Academical Almanach of St. Peters-
burg) will assist the traveller to convert degrees of R^umur into their
equivalents by Fahrenheit : —
¥•
B.
F.
R.
F.
fi.
F.
R.
F.
R.
-40
-32-0
- 6
-16-9
+28
- 1-8
+62
+18-3
+ 96
+28-4
38
31-1
4
16-0
30
0-9
64
14-2
98
29-3
36
30'2
2
15-1
32
0-0
66
15-1
100
30-2
34
29-3
14-2
34
+ 0-9
68
160
102
31-1
32
28-4
+ 2
13-3
36
1-8
70
16-9
104
32-0
30
27-6
4
12*4
38
2-7
72
17-8
106
32 -g*
28
26-7
6
11-6
40
3-6
74
18-7
108
33-8
26
25-8
8
10-7
42
4-4
76
19-6
110
34-7
24
24-9
10
9-8
44
53
78
20-4
120
391
22
24-0
12
8-9
46
6-2
80
21-3
130
43-6
20
23-1
14
8-0
48
71
82
22-2
150
52-4
18
22*2
16
71
50
8-0
84
281
170
61-3
16
21-3
18
6-2
52
8-9
86
24-0
190
70-2
14
20-4
20
5-3
54
9-8
88
24-9
210
79-1
12
19-6
22
4-4
56
10-7
90
25-8
212
80-0
10
18-7
24
3-6
58
11-6
92
26-7
8
17-8
26
2-7
60
12-4
94
27-6
.* The freeEiug-point of Fahrenheit is 32^, and the tx>iliiig-point is represented by 212^.
11. — Sakitaby Peculiarities.
The most common disease among the higher and middle classes in Kussia,
and one, indeed, from which few families are exempt, is scrofula. Con-
sumption, on the other hand, is far less prevalent than in Great Britain,
although most of the causes which are supposed to favour the development
of tubercle may be detected in Russian life ; such causes, for instance, as
wretched ventilation, and sometimes even no ventilation at all, and frequent
changes in the weather, from hot to cold, and from dry to damp; and,
among the lower classes, an insufficient quantity of food, and an excessive
indulgence in intoxicating drinks. Scurvy and rickets are very common
diseases among the lower class of Russians who live in towns. Both com-
plaints are the results, no doubt, of want of Jbod, and of strict observance
of the Church fasts, the sum total of which covers nearly five months out
of the twelve. Not only is meat forbidden, but all products of the anima]
68 U.—SpmL Sect. L
kingdom, such as e^s, milk, cheese, &c., as well. The poor, therefore,
have a very small diet- table to choose from, aud it is these who observe
the fast most strictly. If it were not for the acid rye-bread which they
eat, and the sour kvas which they drink, scurvy would perhaps be more
common even than it is now. Diarrhoea and dysentery are very prevalent,
I I It n I nr r i i i MMiiiaMMMBBMhiMMMMMB
In the immediate neighbourhood of St. Petersburg the ground is all
strictly preserved, either by private clubs or by the Crown ; but a
drive of a few hours, or a short trip by rail, will give the sportsman aii.
unlimited extent of moor and forest, where he can range at will. He miAat
not, however, ex|)ect to make large " bags ;** from 5 to 10 brace of woo^-
game, or from 10 to 15 couple of snipe, in a good snipe season, is about -^lie
average of a fair day's shooting.
The shooting season commences on the 15th (27th) of July, and the
f];ame to be found in all tlte northern forests comprises the foUo^wing
"rds: — capercailzie, black game, willow-grouse, and hazel-grouse, or -ye^f-
««e i„,?«?8 Of
-•-o,i°^;?^rii«n,i,,.
H<3
Cci
T^is
^-&X?^."-ez^-
P«no„
^u,
«nts
tiU
'**" out fh"*'?L'"''"ftl>H
^Cft
*ȣ
S;.AiS'&:C!S?5^2?^
"^ ^';^^^^:;.Srs^JrS2L-v?«..>^
^07.
^^^3^^
-^^/)
•^,
^'JJoii
•eft
''*^-
^
the
««'«,
^^^.x,^^
«^.V4
9iki
'o^its
'^^c
^^JXs'
'^c,
^iS^^
*^
^^zs
«>>
«S.^.&o,.,„
*^^^'
>»»i^
»a2ac^
-fiv
^J"aZ23;
ilt
^embej
^> a/2Q
int
Vaiie
'^ ail
faine
^^^ hia^C^^Lt^ootin^
Uigitized Dy '^
■^^
^^
58 12 JSpoi't. Sect. I.
kingdom, such as eggs, milt, cheese, &c., as well. The poor, therefore,
have a very small diet-table to choose from, and it ia these who observe
the fast most strictly. ^L^j.^^y^ not for the Rcid rye-bread which they
eat, aiiiJlBnflHlilflHHHMlriril^^HUSKJBSilfaLEeriiA^^ be more
oon
«fc.ndj
^iirictly preserved, either by private clubs or by the GrovJn^.^^ \f ^^^
I, rive of a few hours, or a short trip by rail, will give the rtv^A^ *
^rive of a few hours, or a short trip by rail, will give the st^^'
^^-nlimited extent of moor and forest, where he can range at ^n?^ t^^^
^^^t, however, ex^iect to make large '*bags;'* from 5 to IQ bra ^^
aw
j^-n limited extent of moor and lorest, where he can
^^^t, however, ex^iect to make large '*bags;'* from 5 to IQ br^**^' ^etawst
r^me, or from 10 to 15 couple of snipe, in a good snipe seaanrT^ ^^ ^ood
-^reraerfi nf a foii. A^.jr, aV^nntincr »*«»vm^ Ig about
the
^-^eruge of a fair day's shooting. " ' ^^* is aboul
The shooting season commences on the 15th (27th) of j
^^^,me to be found in all tlte northern forests comprises i-v ^* ^^ ^^^
-|-^irds:— capercailzie, black game, willow-gi-ouse, and hazeUoJ^ foUowiutr
srouse, or ^/,:
^^me
i
Russia. 12.— Spor/. 59
notie ; and on many of the tracts of cultivated land the grey or common
English partridge. These last, however, are not, strictly speaking, indi-
genous in the northern provinces, and their presence in the neighhour-
hood of St, Petersbui^ may be attributed to the fact that many of the
clubs are in the habit of procuring these birds in considerable numbers
from Courland and elsewhere, and turning them out in the spring.
South of Moscow the quail abounds, and the bustard is still found on
many of the Steppes. In the Caucasus the sportsman will find plenty of
pheasants. Of migratory birds, besides innumerable kinds of wild-fowl, we
may mention the woodcock, great or double snipe, single and jack snipe,
golden plover, curlew, corncrake, &c. &c.
The woodcock arrives early in spring, and considerable numbers remain
and breed in the vicinity; the autumn flights arrive about the end of
August, or first days of September. Legends of by-gone days tell of
wonderful cock-shooting at no great distance from St. Petersburg ; but four
or five cocks are now considered a very good day's shooting. Of the three
species of snipe, an inconsiderable number stop on their passage northwards
in the spring, and breed ; their reappearance in the autumn is very uncer-
tain. Some seasons there is capital snipe-shooting, and from 15 to 30
couple of snipe to a single gun is by no means a rare occurrence ; while
sometimes you may walk all day without a shot. The double snipe arrives
about the 12th (24th) of August, and the flights continue till about
the 7th of September. These birds are very shy of the cold, and a night's
frost drives them all to the southward. The single and the jack are rather
later in their arrival, and the last-named little fellow remains until the
frost is sufficiently severe to freeze the bogs and pools.
Dogs, — The best dogs for the rough and varied shooting in Russia are setters,
English-bred, but broken in the country. If first-rate, they should be close
rangers in the woods, and wide on the moors. Many dogs will leave their
" point " and return to the sportsman, showing by their movements that they
have found game, and then bring him quietly up to the point. This is an
invaluable quality, as much of the shooting is in thick cover, where it is
impossible to See your dog farther than a few paces. By the middle of
August the capercailzie and black-game are very difficult of approach, and
run long distances before they rise, generally out of shot. A clever dog
will sometimes make a round and head the game back to the sportsman.
A pointer, as a less hardy animal than the setter, will often not face the
cold water on the moors and marshes, while his legs, unprotected, like
those of the setter, by the long feathering hair, are more liable to injury in
ranoring over the rough broken ground.
The best way for a stranger to see sport is — having first ascertained from
some fellow-sportsman the most likely localities for game — to put himself
imder the guidance of one of the peasant Nimrods of the district. They
are all capital walkers, and generally amusing companions, and by no means
despicable shots.
Matttie-Shooting, — ^By the end of September all shooting with dogs is
over for the season, the capercailzie and black-«:ame have retired to the
thickest woods, the willow-grouse are packed and defy the most wary dog,
and the snipe and woodcock have all left for warmer climes. Battue-shooting
now commences, and although a large head of game is seldom bagged, there
U a pleasant variety in the game driven forward, M^^^aNvildness in the
B 8
GO 12.^Sport. Sect. L
vast woods and moorland, whicli possesses a charm for the true sports-
man. Besides the birds already enumerated, there are plenty of
hares, — the white hare, which frequents the woods and moors, and weighs
from 7 to 10 lbs. ; the red hare of the plains and cultivated lands, weighing
from 10 to 15 lbs. Vulpecidism is not here considered a crime, and many
is the gallant fox who has fallen before the deadly barrel in a battue. The
visitor will have little difficulty in procuring an invitation to one of these
shooting parties, which are organized at most of the clubs once a week.
The number of beaters generally employed is from 80 to 100, according to
the extent of the ground to be beaten. Fifty head of game to ten guns is
considered a very good day's sport. These battues continue until the winter
regularly sets in, when the deep snow renders it impossible for the beaters
to get over the ground.
The winter shooting comprises bear, wolf, elk, and lynx.
Bears, — Bears are to be found in considerable numbers in all the ex-
tensive forests in the North, and of late years their number has rather been
on the increase. The general way in which this sport is followed is this : —
as soon as the first snow falls, peasants start from their villages in search
of bear-tracks ; as soon as they come upon traces they follow the track
until they know by the numerous turns and twists which Bruin has made
that he is thinking of choosing some snug corner for his winter quarters ;
they then proceed with greater caution, and, when they consider that the
bear is not very far ofif, they leave the track and make a circle, returning to
their starting-place. If they have not again crossed the track, they know
that the bear must be within the circle ; they then advance a little further,
when they again make a detour as before ; and thus they proceed, giTdually
narrowing the circle until they have enclosed the bear within a compara-
tively small circumference. They then set off to town and offer the bear to
any sportsman whom they happen to know ; if he decides upon taking the
bear at the price offered, he invites some of his friends to join him in the
hunt, and they set out, either by rail or in sleighs, as the case may be, to
the village nearest the spot where the bear is. Beaters are then collected, the
number varying according to the extent of the circle ; they are placed in a
semicircle, while the sportsmen stand in a line at distances of from fifty to
eighty yards from one another, according to the number of guns and the
nature of the ground. The bear, roused from his slumbers by the shonts
and cries of the peasants, makes a bolt for it, and generally comes within
shot of one or other of the guns, which either wounds, kills, or misses him,
although it but seldom happens that a single shot suffices to put an end to
Bruin's existence. When wounded, the bear, more especially if it is a
mother with cubs, is a dangerous customer, and it requires both nerve and
courage to deal successfully with so formidable an antagonist. The sports-
man, however, is generally provided with two guns, and a spear as a dernier
ressort, and most of the accidents which have happened have arisen either
from foolhardiness or a want of nerve. When " ringing '* a bear, as it is
termed, should the peasant when making his ring again cross the track of
the bear, he knows that he has gone out of the circle, and accordingly,
instead of returning to his starting-point, he follows the fresh track, and
nrooeeds as before described. Many sportsmen are not satisfied with tho
ncertain prospect of a shot at a bear held out by a joint battue, and adopt
lother plan, for the success of which it is necessary that the peasant who
Russia. 12.— 'fi^port. 61
has " ringed ** a bear should wait until he has settled himself for the winter,
and then discover the spot where he has made his den; this accom-
plished, he gives information to the sportsman, who goes to the place,
either alone with the peasant, or accompanied by a friend, generally taking
with him three or four rough dogs, who answer the double purpose of
rousing the bear from his lair, and distracting his attention from the sports-
man. In this way the hunter is almost sure of a shot, and has generally
only himself to blame if he returns empty-handed. Some of the most
noted and successful bear-hunters make a regular campaign against Bruin
for several weeks together, camping out at night in the forest, and often
pursuing for days together a bear who has escaped the bullet when started
from his lair. The best season of the year for this sport is January and
February, at which time the snow is in a favourable condition for running
on snow-shoes, without which accessories the hunter, sinking at every step
to the middle in the deep snow, would be powerless. The snow-shoes are
about 7 feet long and 6 inches broad, slightly curved at the point, with a
foot-piece in the middle, to which are attached thongs or straps for securing
the snow-shoe to the foot. Some of them are covered underneath with the
skin of the reindeer, which is of great assistance to the hunter in ascending
hills. In the absence of this under-covering of skin, the hunter provides
himself with a pole about 8 feet in lengthy with a curved point of
horn or bone, with which he guides himself in descending, or prevents
his feet from slipping backwards in ascending any rising ground. It
requires considerable practice to become an adept in the art of running on
snow-shoes, but without them it is quite impossible to attempt to follow
game in the winter time.
An Englishman, who for many years was a mighty bear-hunter in Russia,
was in the habit of attacking and pursuing these animals armed only with a
spear ; and although many were the deadly struggles that he had face to face
with his grim opponent, he never met with any accident. To use the spear
with any certainty requires great dexterity and strength of arm, with
nerves of iron, and should on no account be attempted by a novice.
The Emperor Alexander II. is a keen and experienced sportsman, and pas-
sionately fond of bear-shooting, and every winter adds several skins to his
already numerous trophies. Bears, as well as elk and wolves, are often
shot within 40 miles of St. Petersburg.
Elk, — Elk-shooting is conducted much in the same way as the ordinary
battue for bear. The peasants, however, will sometimes follow them for
days for the chance of a shot.
Wolves, — ^Wolves are shot by hunting with dogs, by an ordinary battue,
and sometimes by riding down ; but this requires a peculiar condition of
the snow, as well as rideable ground. They are to be found in consider-
able numbers in the immediate neighbourhood of St. Petersburg, as well ae
all over Eussia, and, unless hard pressed by hunger and in packs, are
seldom dangerous.
Lynx, — ^The lynx is occasionally shot in the vicinity of St. Petersburg,
and the species most generally found is the Felis virgata of Nilssen. They
are a very wary animal, and even when " ringed " are very difficult to drive
from their lurking-place.
There are no reindeer in the immediate neighbourhood of St. Petersburg,
"but they abound in the provinces of Archangel, Olonetz, &c. &c.
62 13.— Society. Sect. I.
Fox 'hunting, — A subscription pack of foxhounds is kept up by the
Enghsh community at St. Petersburg. The kennels are about 12 m. out
of town, and are well worth seeing, even out of the hunting season, which
begins towards the end of August and ends about the middle of October,
when the ground begins to get haixi and slippery. Many a good run has
been had with the "Gor^loe hounds," notwithstanding the marshy and
wooded nature of the country. A fox-hunting traveller will be most
cordially welcomed and even mounted, provided he have no objection to
bestride a Cossack pony — an animal which is however well adapted to the
sort of work expected of him at Gor^lo^.
Fishing, — Finland is famous for its streams and lakes stocked with the
finest fish, and it will no doubt be one day as much visited as Norway for
the purposes of sport ; for descriptions of which vide " Grand Duchy of
Finland."
13. — Society.
Winter is the season for gaieties in Russia. Travellers w:ith letters of
introduction will find salons of St. Petersburg as brilliant as those of
Paris, but they are unfortunately not many. During a good season
dinner parties, receptions, soirfe, and balls, occur in such rapid suc-
cession, that the man of fashion will find the winter too short, rather
than too long. There is no dancing during the forty days that precede
Easter. Christmas and the Carnival are the gayest periods. Two or three
court balls are then given, and ** distinguished strangers*' who have been
presented at home will sometimes receive invitations. . Travellers wishing
to be presented to H. I. M. must apply for an audience through H. M.'s
Embassy.
It is necessary to wear a uniform at court. French is the language
spoken in society, but English is generally understood. Strangers are
expected to make the first call, which is returned either in person or by
card. In leaving cards on persons who are not at home, one of the edges of
the card should be turned up. It is necessary to leave a card next day on
any person to whom the stranger may have been introduced at a party.
Those who are introduced to the stranger will observe the same politeness.
Great punctuality is exacted at St. Petersburg in the matter of leaving
cards after entertainments and introductions. Visiting on New Year's Day
may be avoided by giving a small contribution to the charitable institutions
of the city, which will be duly acknowledged in the newspapers.
No presents are given to servants, except at New Year and Easter, when
the porters of much-frequented houses will offer their congratulations in
anticipation of a donation of 1 to 5 rubles, according to the number of visits
paid. The hours for calling are 3 to 5 p.m. ; dinner parties are generally
convened for 6 or 6*30; and receptions commence at about 10 p.m., and
last very late. Guests are expected to be punctual where members of the
Imperial Family are invited. Ladies wishing to pass a " season " at St.
Petersburg should recollect that Russian ladies dress very richly, though in
great tast«. The charges of dress-makers at St. Petersburg being exorbitant,
it is advisable to come provided with all the necessary toilettes. At balls,
the only dance in which the stranger will not at first be able to join is the
zurka, a kind of cotillon imported from Poland. It is also necessary to
Eussia, 14. — Seasons for Travelling, 63
observe that partners are not engaged for the whole of a waltz or polka, but
only for a turn.
In summer there are generally two or three salon% out of town open for
evening receptions. Ladies can wear rrjbes rmntantes, and f;entlemen light
trousers and white waistcoats, with dress coats. The same costume for
dinner parties in summer.
Travellers should not forget that a Russian invariably takes off his hat
whenever be enters an apartment, however humble ; and an omission to
pay this respect to the holy image suspended in the corner of every room
will immediately be noticed, and hurt the feelings of the host or hostess.
Top coats must always be removed on entering Russian houses, as a point
of etiquette and politeness.
14. — Seasons fob Travelling.
Winter is naturally the most appropriate season for travelling in Russia ;
for the prevalence of ice and snow during a great portion of the year is the
characteristic feature of the country. The mode of life which the long dark
nights of winter induce, the contrivances of man to overcome the obstacles
presented by the climate, the dormant aspect of nature, with its thick
covering of dazzling snow, and its ice-bound lakes and rivers, now bearing
horses and the heaviest burdens where ships floated and waves rolled,
perhaps only a fortnight before : — all these scenes and peculiar i)hases of
life render a journey to Russia very interesting and desirable in winter.
But we cannot expect many tourists to submit to the hardships of travel-
ling very far at such a season ; nor do we recommend it beyond a visit to
St. Petersburg, where a very good idea of a Russian winter may be obtained,
and where sight-seeing and amusements of a social character entail no dis-
comfort. Moscow might, indeed, in winter disappoint the traveller who
seeks the picturesque, and should therefore be visited in summer, when the
sun lights up with an extraordinary brilliancy the striking panorama of that
city of churches and gilded cupolas.
As, moreover, the great mass of tourists only visit the Continent during
the months of summer, our counsel in the matter of travelling in Russia
is scarcely needed ; but as, on the other hand, there are many who can dis-
pose of their time at all seasons, we may as well summarise our advice and
our experience as follows.
1. Summer. — Proceed by steamer or yacht to the Baltic, and visit the
towns on the coast of Finland. Spend a week at St. Petersburg, in seeing
the churches, art collections, and other sights. Go to Moscow for a week,
which will be fully occupied in viewing thoroughly all the places and
objects described in Route 6. Novgorod the Great and the monastery of
the New Jerusalem may be visited on the way by those who can spare
three more days. If at the proper season (middle of August), the fair of
Nijni should be seen. The voyage down the Volga and across the Caspian,
the tour in the Crimea, the journeys to Pekin and Teheran, should also
only be performed in summer. From St. Petersburg return overland, by
way of Poland.
Travellers are attracted to Warsaw principally b^^^pol^itol sympathies,
or by a desire to see a country which has occupied so much oitne^ttention
64: 16.-^Bailway8 and Princvpal Boutes. Sect. I.
of the statesmen of Europe, It may be visited indififerently, either in
winter or summer, on the way to or from St. Petersburg.
2. WiNTBB. — Travellers should visit St. Petersburg specially in winter,
with the object of seeing Russia in her natural garb. The collections of the
Hermitage, the exhilarating sports, the rapid sleighing, and the gay life of
the great capital of the North, will afford much enjoyment, and amply re-
compense the time spent> and the somewhat heavy expenses which such a
trip will entail,
16.— Railways and Prikcipal Routes.
Railways are being so rapidly pushed on in Russia in various directions
that it is as yet impossible to reduce travelling in that country to any
system. The tourist*s course must for some time continue to be zigzag and
erratic, for a methodic route traced to-day would probably not be available
for more than six months after. The accompanying map will show the prin-
cipal directions which the railways are taking, the line of most importance
to tourists being that which will connect the Crimea with Moscow and
St. Petersburg. Until that line is opened throughout its entire length,
few travellers for pleasure will go beyond Moscow or Nijni. Two years
hence (when a new edition of this Handbook will probably become neces-
sary) Moscow will not be, as at present, the Ultima Thule of the great
majority of travellers. It will only be visited en route from or to the
Crimea. In the mean while it may be stated generally, for the encourage-
ment of travellers, that the Russian railways are the most comfortable in
Europe. On the line between St. Petersburg and Moscow the traveller
may regularly go to bed in a sleeping compartment; he may ask for a
table and play at cards; and he may even naake his morning ablutions in
the train. The stoppages are rather too frequent to please the impatient
traveller, but on such long journeys it is frequently very refreshing to be
able to stretch one's legs even for five minutes at a station.
Railway travelling being somewhat new to the Russian people, the tra-
veller will sometimes be surprised to see a certain amount of disorder in the
taking and keeping of seats. On entering a train all the seats will at first
appear to be occupied, but an application to the station-master will soon
cause a removal of the cloaks, bedding, &c., with which the carriage is
packed. However, these artifices are not peculiar to Russia alone. As a
rule, the traveller will find every comfort and civility on the lines of rail-
way, &c., described in the following pages, where it is to be hoped sufficient
information will be found to render the journey interesting. The words
and dialogues given in the " Vocabulary " have been found amply sufficient
to enable the tourist to reach Astrakhan without any previous knowledge
whatever of the Russian language.
The arrangement of skeleton routes and systematic tours must be re-
served for the next edition.
Notice. — A Railway Guide for Russia, or * Ukazatel Puteshestviya,' is
published at St. Petersburg by Messrs. F, B. Froom and Co., in the
Russian language (with the headings of the Tables in English), and may
be purchased for 25 c, at all the principal stations.
ROUTES.
[The luunefl of places are printed in italics only in those Tontes where the places are daeribed.}
BOUTE PAGE
1. London to 8t, PetersburOfOver-
land, vi4 Berlin, Kovmo,
Wilna, And Pakof. .. .. 65
2. London to St. Petersburg, by
Sea, via Cronstadt . . . . 157
3. London to St. Petersburg, vi^
Archangel 157
4. Berlin to Beval, by Riga, Dor-
pat, &c 163
5. St. Petersburg to Novgorod
me Great 173
B0X3TE PAGE
6. St. Petersburg to Moscow . .
7. Moscow to Troitsa Motms- 176
tery (Troitskaya - Sergieva
Lavra) 217
8. Moscow to Nijni Novgorod,
with branch line to Shuya
and Ivanovo, and excur-
sion up the Oka to Murom,
Elatma, &nd Kasimof .. 220
9. Volga: Tygt to Astrahhan .. 228
EOUTE 1.
LONDOK TO ST. PETER6BUEG, OVERLAND,
VIA BEBLDT, KOWNO, WILNA, AND PSKOF.
By travelling without intermission,
St Petersburg can be reached from
London in 3J days.
Through tickets from Charing-
cros.s to St. Petersburg, available for
30 days, and enabling travellers to
stop at the principal continental
towns on the route, are issued at the
following rates : —
fr. c.
1st class via Ostend 355 10*
I>itto vl& Calais 359 60
Mixed ticket (2nd class between
CologDe and St. Petersburg)—
▼lAOstend 283 30
viaCalais 287 20
* These rates vary slightly every week, ac-
cording to the Use or fall of the exchanges.
Each passenger Is allowed 60 lbs. of luggage
free of charge.
As the Russian 2nd class carriages arc not
equal to those on the German lines, tlie English
or American traveller, with a mixed ticket, is
recommended to pay at Wlerzholow the differ-
ence to St. Petersburg between 1st and 2nd
class.
The route from London to Berlin and
Konigsberg is described in Handbook
of North Germany.
The journey is broken at Berlin,
where travellers may remain 12 hrs.
or go through. In case of fatigue, a
night may be passed at Konigsberg or
at Eydkuhnen, on the Prussian fron-
tier. The carriages throughout are
comfortable and roomy, and present
facilities for sleeping. BuflFets fre-
quent and good. Money can be
changed either at Eydkuhnen (the
last Prussian station), or at Wierzbo-
low, where the exchange of the day is
given.
Digitized by vjv^v^viv^
560 m. from St. Petersburg, at Wir-
66
Boute 1. — Kotono,
Sect. I.
ballen (or Wierzbolow), passports and
luggage are examined. Porters charge
5 copecks for every parcel they carry.
Good bufffet kept by a Frenchman,
and plenty of time for refreshment.
The first 4 stations beyond are, like
Wirballen, in the kingdom of Poland,
and the train only enters Bussia at
506 m. Kowno. Chief town of pro-
vince, at the confluence of the Vilia
and Niemen. Pop. 24,000. On the
23rd June, 1812, the French army
crossed the Niemen, near Kowno, on
their advance to Moscow, and some
rising ground on the opposite bank is
still called " Napoleon's HUl." The
town was occupied by a large corps
d'arm^e, and suffered considerably.
The remnants of the army recrossed
the river at the same spot on the 13th
December, in a very bad state of disci-
pline. In the centre of the market-
place, in front of the town-hall and
barracks (established in an ancient
Polish ch.), is a monument commemo-
rative of the retreat, and bearing the
following inscription in Eussian:—
** In 1812 Bussia was invaded by an
army numbering 700,000 men. The
army recrossed the frontier numbering
70,000."
Kowno formed part of the ancient
Duchy of Lithuania, now called one of
the N.W. provinces of Bussia, whose
history will be read at Wilna. The
scenery around is mountainous and
wooded. In the days of paganism this
site was of great repute as the residence
of several mythological divinities. The
town is supposed to have been founded
in the early part of the 11th centy.
In the 14th and 15th cents, the castle
of Kowno played an important part in
the history of Lithuania. It was fre-
quently attacked by the Teutonic
Knights; but in 1400 Vitovt, Grand
Duke of Lithuania, ordered it to be
blown up, in order that it might not
fall into other hands. After that
event, which took from the town its
military importance, Kowno became
gradually a centre of trade, particu-
larly after 1581, when it was made
the seat of a custom-house for all
goods exported out of Poland. The
establishment of an English Factory
at Kowno in the middle ages is like-
wise a proof of its great commercial
importance. Subsequent religious dis-
sensions reduced the inhabitants to
such extreme poverty that in 1654
they were released from the obligation
of paying taxes. In 1655 Kowno was
burnt and pillaged by the Bussians,
who occupied this part of the country
until 1661, and into whose hands the
town fell definitively in 1795. A
fire destroyed ^ of the town in 1808 ;
and in 1812 it was deva.stated and
pillaged by the French. There are
several old churches still extant ; that
dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul,
in the 15th centy., being the largest
Boman Oath. ch. in Lithuania. The
church of St. George was built in
1471, and the chapel dedicated to St.
Gertrude existed in 1503.
Five small stations beyond is
Wilna Stat., 441 m. from St. P.
Pop. 58.000. ^ofeZ.— Hotel de I'Europe,
recommended. Chief town of the
ancient independent Duchy of Lithu-
ania, connected with Poland in 1386,
when its Duke, Jagellon, espoused
Hedwiga, Queen of Poland. The
dynastic union of the two countries
imparted the strength which they re-
quired in order to repel the invasions
of the Teutonic Knights, to arrest the
incursions of the Tartars, and to keep
the Dukes of Moscow within the
limits of their territory. The Union,
commenced by the Convention of
Wilna, 1401, became organic two cen-
turies later by an Act passed at a
Common Diet held at Lublin in 1569.
The history of Lithuania remained
that of the kingdom of Poland until
the Third Partition in 1795, when it
was incorporated with Bussia. Divided
later into the provinces of Wilna, Grod-
no, Kowno, and Minsk. Lithuania
now constitutes, together with the
provinces of Mohilef and Witebsk (also
called White Bussia, and detached
from Poland in 1772), the N.W. pro-
vinces of the Bussian empire, in-
habited by the following races : —
Eussia. Boute 1,
1. The dominating elements : —
a. Poles, represented by the nobi-
lity, the Catholic clei^^, and
the inhabitants of towns . . 580 , 000
b. Great Russians or Moscovites,
consisting of government oflB-
cials, the Russo-Greek clergy,
and colonies of Dissenters from
the Russo-Greek Church .. 212,000
2. Rural p<^ulation : —
a. White Russians (Slavonians).. 2,157,000
b. Lithuanians, Samogitians, and
Letts 1,556,000
3. Jews 535,000
4. Other elements 6&,000
Total 5,105,000
-WUna,
67
Of these 2J millions belong to the
Russo-Greek, and 2 millions to the
Boman Catholic Confession. A very
large proportion, however, of the popu-
lation, considered orthodox by Russian
statists, were, before their forced con-
version in 1839, Uniats, or worship-
pers in the amalgamated Churches of
the Greek and Roman faith. The
Uniat denomination had been intro-
duced in 1599, under the influence of
the Jesuits, with a view to Romanise
the Lithuanian people, then of the
Greek Church. The converted of
1839, then about 2 millions in num-
ber, preserve to this day a leaning to-
wards the United Church, which is
certainly more Catholic and Polish
than Orthodox and Russian.
The political vicissitudes to which
these provinces have been subjected,
and the mixed nature of their popula-
tion, afford a fertile and disastrous
source of disagreement between the
Russians and the Poles. By the
former they are regarded and governed
as Russians, subject some time to
Poland, but now reincorporated by
conquest and treaties of partition ;
while the Polish element, composed of
the aristocracy, landed gentry, and
educated classes generally, maintain
that the N.W. provinces are Polish,
and, as such, entitled to a national
administration. The imperial Govern
ment ignore the claim, and deny that
the Poles, subjects of the Emperor,
entitled to certain political privileges
by the Treaty of Vienna, are the Poles
of the N.W. provinces. The claim
is, however, unfortunately asserted at
every available opportunity. The in-
surrection of 1831 in the kingdom of
Poland was one of those opportunities ;
the revolution of 1862 at Warsaw was
the latest. The repressive measures
of Gen. Mouravieff in 1863 and 1864
were dated from Wilna. Here the
leaders of the hopeless insurrection
in the provinces were confined, tried,
hung, or shot. The reduction of the
population in the N.W. provinces by
deportation to distant parts of the em-
pire is variously estimated at 50,000
to 100.000 souls. Their landed pro-
perty has since been transferred, by
confiscation and forced sale, to native
Russians.
The town of Wilna lies in a hollow
at the foot of several hills which rise
to some height on the E., S., and W.
The Vilia river runs out at the northern
extremity of the hollow, and, winding
through deep and intricate ravines,
clothed with foliage of the fir, the birch,
and the lime, presents a most pictu-
resque and smiling panorama, little in
keeping with the stem deeds of retri-
bution which have made Wilna so
famous. Wilna is supposed to have
existed in the 12th centy., and was the
capital of Lithuania in the early part
of the 14th centy., when its population
was still pagan. A perpetual fire was
kept burning at the foot of the hill
which Gedemin crowned with a castle
in 1323. The remains of the old
castle, with an octangular tower of
red brick, are still seen commanding
the town, in pleasing contrast with the
verdure around. A famine destroyed
more than 30,000 inhab. in 1710, and
in 1715 the town was almost entirely
burnt down.
The house of the Governor-General
was formerly the Episcopal Palace, and
the present post-office was the resi-
dence of Cardinal Radziwil. The
churches will repay a visit ; the most
ancient being the Cathedral of St.
Stanislaus, built in 1387, and tUo
ch. of the Assumption, founded in
1364. They possess considerable ar-
chitectural merit, and among tlieir
moniunents wi^ze(^^ vS^S^, those of
68
Boute 1. — Bilnaburg — Ostrof,
Sect. I.
several families whose names are fa-
miliar to all readers of Polish history.
The UAiversity, established in 1803,
was suppressea in 1832.
Wilna was occupied by the French
army on the 28th June. 1812. It had
been evacuated by the Russians during
the night. The Emperor Napoleon
occupied in the Episcopal Palace the
rooms which the Emperor Alexander
had left the previous day. Sir Robert
Wilson's Memoirs give interesting de-
tails about Wilna. Tyrconnel, his
aide-de-camp, lies buried here.
The main line runs hence to War-
saw, but a branch turns off at Land-
warowo (the next station after Wilna),
for the Prussian frontier.
366 m. Swentsiany, Buffet. Town
of 4000 Inhab. on the western Dwina.
331 m. Dunahurg, Buf. Town of
27,000 Inhab. in province of Witebsk,
formerly known as White Russia.
Dunaburg has a first-class fortress,
built in 1825, on the site of a fortifi-
cation raised by Stephen Batory in
1582. A t^te-de-pont commands the
floating bridge over the river Dvina.
John the Terrible of Russia took the
town in 1577, after which it was oc-
cupied by the Swedes in 1600. The
Russians retook it in 1656, but re-
turned it two years later to the Poles,
who in their turn were compelled to
cede it finally to the Russians in
1772.
The fortress is now the most im-
portant strategical point on the Dvina
line of defence. As a place of trade,
Diinaburg holds a high position among
the western towns of Russia. Large
quantities of flax, hemp, tallow, and
timber are collected here for shipment
or carriage to Riga. The opening of
the railway to Orel will still further
increase the traffic through Diina-
burg.
As yet there are no hotels at Diina-
burg where travellers bound from
Berlin to Moscow vi& Witebsk and
Orel can find comfortable quarters.
Information respecting the inns of
the country should be obtained from
^he station-master.
There is a branch line from Duna-
burg to Riga (m0 Rte. 4), and another
to Orel (Rte. 12).
330 m. Antonopol, But
230 m. Eorsofka, Buf.
204 m. Ostrof, Buf. Town of 2500
Inhab., in province of Pskof, on river
Veliki. The town takes its name,
whicli signifies ** island," from an
island formed by the Veliki, and on
which a fortress existed in the 14th
centy. Three of the towers, bmlt of
a grey flagstone and red limestone,
are still to be seen, together with the
church of St. Nicholas in the centre
of the island, built in 1582. Ostrof was
burnt by the Lithuanians in 1601, when
4000 inhab. perished ; and in 1581 it
was taken by Stephen Batory. A large
trade is carried on in flax, carried
hence to Riga, Narva, and St. Peters-
burg. Travellers sometimes telegraph
from here to the hotel at St. Peters-
burg for a carriage.
171 m. Pskof, Buf. Chief town of
province of same name, 15,000 Inhab.
This was anciently one of the three
republics of Russia ; the others being
Novgorod the Great, and Khlynof
(now Viatka). Tradition points to the
year 975 as the date of its foundation.
It was, like Novgorod, the seat of a
great trade with Germany in the
earliest times, and formed part of
the Hanseatio League. The wave of
European civilization and commerco
first met the tide of Slavonic barbarism
at this point. CJommercial prosperity
introduced political freedom and much
popular turbulence. The citizens of
Pskof elected their own princes, de-
posed them at pleasure, and held in-
cessant Vech^f or popular councils
almost identical with the Witenage-
motes of the Saxons. The assembly,
convened by a bell, sat on an elevated
moimd, approached by steps, and on
which a club or heavy stick was set
up, emblematical of the majesty ot
the law. There is a record of a Veche*
at Pskof in which the citizens deli-
berated in their shirts, so urgent was
the danger to their privileged city.
Eussia.
This form of government was retained,
ua at Novgorod and some other towns,
even during the Tartar dominion, but
it succumbed at last to the autocracy
established by John III. and John the
Terrible, who incorporatedall thepetty
principalities of Bussia with the Grand
Duchy of Moscow. The liberties of
Pskof survived those of Novgorod
82 years. Taking advantage of some
factions proceedings at the Vech€,
John the Terrible perfidiously impri-
soned the boyars and citizens who had
been sent to do him homage at Nov-
gorod, and sent an envoy to the Veche
demanding the instant submission of
that body. The envoy sat down on
the steps of the Yech^, and long
waited for an answer. The citizens
could not speak for their tears and
sobs, and asked to be allowed imtil
the morrow for reflection. It was a
most dreadfal day and night for Pskof.
'^InfiEoits at the breast,'' continues
the Chronicle, ** were the only ones that
did not cry for grief. The wailings of
the people were heard in the open
street and in every house : they em-
braced each other as if their last hour
had come. So great was the love of
the citizens for their ancient liberties."
But resistance they felt to be useless ;
and the next day, the 13th January,
1510, they took down the bell of the
Veche at the church of the Holy Tri-
nity, and, gazing at it, "long cried
over the past and their lost freedom."
Three himdred of the most distin-
guished families were thereupon re-
moved to Muscovy, and replaced by
Muscovites.
A town with such a glorious history
is well worthy of a visit. It stands
at a distance of 2 m. &om the rly. stat.
and cannot, therefore, be inspected
during the 15 or 20 minutes which
travellers are allowed there for re-
freshment. But to those who will
hazard the discomfort of a native inn
under the protection of a guide, we
point out the following objects of
curiosity : —
The Kremlin, of which the stone
walls were built in 1323, occupies an
Bcmte h— Pskof : TJie Kremlin.
69
elevation 200 fathoms in length, and
80 in breadth. It faces the river
Pskova on the E. and N., and the
Velika on the W. Another wall, called
Dovmont*s Wall, constructed in the
latter part of the 13th centy., springs
from the southern face of the Kremlin
and forms a square, on which once
stood the castle or palace of the Prince.
There is now but one ancient building
in that square,— a house of stone,
built in the early part of the 15th
centy., by Macarius, subsequently
Metropolitan of all Russia, and which
was the residence of the Archbishops
of Novgorod when they visited Pskof,
placed under their ecclesiastical ju-
risdiction. The huge mass of the
Cathedral of the Trinity occupies nearly
the whole of the interior of the Krem-
lin. The original ch. on that site is
supposed to have been built a.d. 957,
by Olga, converted to Christianity at
Constantinople two years previously.
The cathedral became thus early a
centre from which the Christian reli-
gion was dif^ised among the pagan
tribes around. The ancient ch. was
replaced by a stone edifice in 1138.
Dovmont, a Lithuanian chief, was bap-
tized in it, together with his family and
followers, in 1266, prior to his election
as Prince of Pskof, but that building
only lasted till 1363. A third cathe-
dral was built on its foundation in
1368, and lasted long enough to witness
some of the most important events in
the history of the town. Within its
walls, in 1510, John the Terrible
caused the citizens to swear allegiance
to the Grand Duke of Moscow. In
1581 the cathedral was besieged and
stormed by the forces of Stephen Ba-
tory, who was repulsed by the defend-
ers of the city, stimulated to valour
and enthusiasm by the exhibition of
a miraculous image of the Holy Virgin.
ThePskovians had "washed the whole
floor of the ch. with their tears " be-
fore the danger had passed.
The present Cathedral was built on
the site of those ancient edifices in
1682, but has been much restored
since, especiall]^ itt^ a fire which
70
Boute l.—Pslcof: The Cathedral
Sect. I.
took place in 1770. Its style is Russo-
Byzantian, of considerable beauty.
Some of the images of saints are ancient
and curious, and the traveller will be
shown numerous relics. The most in-
teresting of these is the tomb of St.
Vsevolod-Gabriel, the ejected Prince
of Novgorod, and elected ruler of
Pskof, who died a.d. 1138, after leading
a life of great virtue and sancity. The
Novgorodians demanded his relics, but
tlie coffin would not be moved, evi-
dently expressive of the desire of the
departed prince to abide with his faith-
ful Pskovians. Several other miracles
are attributed to his remains. A sword,
with the inscription, " Honorem meum
nemini daho" is shown as having be-
longed to Vsevolod, who was as warlike
as he was godly.
The cross which St. Olga raised at
Pskof, and which was destroyed by fire
in 1509, is represented by a crucifix
suspended against the second pillar on
the right-hand side of the altar-screen.
The lamp which burns in front of it
was presented by the Grand Duke
Constantine Nicolaevitch in comme-
moration of the birth of his daughter.
The tomb of St. Dovmont, in a chapel
to the right of the Ikonostas or altar-
screen, is not of silver, like that of
St. Vsevolod, but of plain oak. It
bears an inscription recording the his-
tory of this Lithuanian prince, who
appears to have assumed the name of
Timothy at his baptism. His sword,
frequently wielded in defence of the
city, hangs near his tomb. It was held
in great reverence by the Pskovians,
who invested their princes with it at
their consecration in this cathedral.
Alongside of this tomb is that of " the
sainted Nicholas Sales the Idiot," who
saved Pskof from the fury of John the
Terrible in the following manner: —
•Having persuaded the citizens to pre-
sent bread and salt to the angry Tsar
immediately after mass, he rode about
on a stick like a child, constantly re-
peating ** Johnny, Johnny, eat the
bread and salt, and not the blood of
Christians." The Tsar ordered him to
be seized, but the saint suddenly
vanished. Struck with awe, John the
Terrible, entered the cathedral with
all meekness, and was met by the
clergy carrying the holy crosses. An-
other version is that Nicholas offered
the Tsar a piece of raw meat. " I am
a Christian," said John the Terrible,
" and do not eat meat in Lent." " But
thou drinkest the blood of Christians,"
replied the saint, while he exhorted
the Tsar to be merciful. The tyrant,
however, only listened to the warning
after the saint had caused his horse to
fall, at the moment the bell of the
cathedral was ordered to be taken
down.
The sacristy contains many ecclesi-
astical antiquities, and some ancient
seals and coins of Pskof.
There are several other churches
worthy of a visit, each with a legend
or traidition of miracles performed to
the discomfiture of foreign foes. The
interposition of saints appears to have
been frequently needed by the good
old city. The small chapel opposite
the market commemorates the victims
of an insurrection which broke out in
1650. •
Some of the houses are of ancient
date ; that occupied by the " Viciuallinrf
Department" once belonged to the
Pogankins, a race of merchant-princes
now extinct. The tiles of the roof are
curious. The Trubinski house is not
as perfect a specimen of ancient Russian
architecture as it was before a fire
which partially consumed it in 1830.
Peter the Great visited it.
Travellers should cross the Pskof
river and examine the churches and old
buildings in the suburbs. Gustavus
Adolphus besieged Pskof from that
side in 1615. There are several mo-
nasteries, rich in ecclesiastical objects
of ancient date, beyond the Velika river,
A village, 8 m. up the latter river, and
called Vybutina, was the birthplace of
St. Olga. The fortified monastery
of Pskof-Pechersk, celebrated for its
catacombs and for the sieges whidi it
has sustained, lies about 20 m. to the
W. of Pskof.
Two stations beyond Pskof is
BeUya, 139 '^VBiMGIi '^
Bussia.
Boute 1. — GatcMna — St, Petersburg,
71
85 m. Lugaj Buff.; chief town of
district in province of St. Petersburg.
53 m. Divenskaya, Buff.
28 m. Gatchina, an imperial resi-
dence, founded by Prince Gregory
Orloff, and purchased on his decease
by Catherine II., who presented it to
her son, the Grand Duke Paul. The
grounds are very extensive and well
laid out, but somewhat neglected, since
the palace is rarely, if ever, inhabited.
It was built by Prince G. Orloff, after
a plan by Einaldi. The emperor keeps a
kennel there, which may be inspected
on application to the Master of the
Hounds. Many of the pictures which
the palace contained have been re-
moval to the Hermitage. The trout
of Gatchina, caught abundantly in the
lakes and streams by which the park
is intersected, appear on every good
Russian table. In the ch. are some
relics brought from Malta, and in a
building, which will be pointed out
as the Priory, the Knights of Malta
were wont to assemble under the pre-
sidency of their Grand Master, the
Emperor Paul. Travellers who have
time to spare should make this a
separate excursion under the guidance
of a commissionaire.
St. PETERfiJBUBG TERMDnJS.
Hotels. — The English or American
traveller who prefers home comforts
and the use of his native tongue to a
foreign mode of life and speech, is
strongly recommended to the board-
ing-house kept by Miss Benson, No. 78,
on the English Quay . {AnglUhaya
Goetinitsa, AngUikaya Ndberejnd). The
apartments are quite English in their
neatness and cleanliness. The table-
d'hote is well loaded with substantial
English fare, varied with dishes taken
from the " Diner a la Russe." The
charges vary from rs. 3*50 to rs. 4*50
per diem for bed and board. The
waiters understand English, and the
worthy and obliging proprietress is
ever ready to assist the helpless travel-
ler with her knowledge of the country
and its language, and particularly
with information respecting the sights
of the capital. A commissionaire in at-
tendance.
The other class of tourists, accus-
tomed to foreign hotels, and who can
make themselves understood in French
or German, should ask for the " Hotel
de Kussie" (or Klee's Hotel) (" Gosti-
nitsa Klay**), on the Place Michel, in
the centre of the town. This is an
old-established house, fashionably fre-
quented. There are about 200 rooms,
at 1 to 15 rs. {Ss. to 458.) per day. A
reduction is made if the rooms are
taken by the month. Cold, warm, and
shower-baths on the premises, as well
as the indispensable tub. The traveller
should ask for the apartments down-
stairs, recently fitted up. Dinners by
a French cook in separate rooms at 1 r.
to 1 r. 50 (3«. to 4«. 6d.). A table-
d*h6te at 5 o*clock, 1 r. (3«.) English,
French, and American newspapers
kept. Commissionaires in attendance.
Another hotel, much to be recom-
mended for its cleanliness and cuisine,
is the " Hotel de France," kept by L.
Croissant, and situated in Great Mor-
skoy-street, near the Winter Palace.
The charge for apartments is from
75 cop. to 15 rs. (2«. 8d to 45«.). All
languages spoken. Baths on the pre-
mises.
The other hotels are : —
Hotel Demouth, near the Police.
Bridge, close to "Nevsky Perspec-
tive," a large and commodious hotel,
with an excellent cuisine.
Grand Hotel, Little Morskoi-street.
Recently established, and therefore
clean.
Hotel Bellevue, on "Nevski Per-
spective." Very good, and well re-
commended.
Hotel d'Angleterre, opposite St.
Isaacs, also very good.
An omnibus from each of the foreign
hotels meets the train.
Vehicles. — A crowd of conveyances
of every descri^tip^ijy^^be^fp^nd at
72
Boute 1. — St Petersburg.
Sect I.
the station. Miss Benson will send a
carriage if telegraphed to, bnt there
is no difficulty in making a Russian
coachman drive to the addresses given
above. Travellers with much luggage,
and unwilling to enter an omnibus,
should secure one of the large four-
seated carriages driven by a coachman
in Bussian dbress, leaving the price to
be settled at the hotel. The small,
uncomfortable drojkies wlU charge
40 to 50 copecks. For sight-seeing
or business, engage a carriage at the
hotel. The charge is 6 to 7 rs, (18«.
to 21«.) a day, to any hour of the
night.
Police Regulations, — ^The principal
police regulation, to which the traveller
must pay careful attention, is that which
relates to passports (vide chapter on
Passports). Smoking in the streets,
which was once absolutely prohibited,
is now permitted, except in the neigh-
bourhood of palaces,on wooden bridges,
&c. Notices to that effect, in four
languages, will be found in several
parts of the town.
History and Topography of St. Peters-
burg» — The region comprised between
Lake Peipus and the Narova river on
the one side, and the lake of Ladoga on
the other. Was anciently called Ingria,
and belonged first to Novgorod, then
to Moscow, until the year 1617, when
it passed to the Swedes, and it was
only reconquered bjT Peter the Great
in 1702, who, desiring to have *'a
window looking out into Europe," laid
the foundation of St Petersburg in
1703, after dispossessing the Swedes of
their fort and townlet of Nyenschanz,
on the Okhta. The Neva, rising in
Ijake Ladoga, flows through the city.
After receiving the waters of the Okhta
river, it disembogues in the Gulf of Fin-
land, separating into many branches
and forming several islands. The first
branch is called the. Great Nevka, and
an arm of the latter the Little Nevka.
From the point where the Nevka rises
the river bears the name of the Great
Neva, in distinction to the second
branch, which it sends off to the N.W.,
called the Little Neva. Thus the Bay
of Gronstadt receives the wators of the
Neva by four channels of considerable
volume and breadth, which are further
distributed through tiie city by 4 canals.
{Vide Plan).
In the spring of 1703 Peter the
Great caused a great number of
Russian and Finnish peasants to be
concentrated on the banks of the Neva
for the construction of St. Petersburg,
and soon aftor 40,000 men were drafted
annually for several years &om the
most distant parte of the empire, the
Tsar superintending the works in per-
son, and dwelling in a small cottege,
still shown. The first private houses
were built in 1704 on the N. side of
the river, in a part of the town now
called Old Petersburg. Elegant houses
began to be erected by foreigners in 1705
in a street still called the Millionaya,
where the Hermitage at present stands.
The large island between the Great
and LitUe Neva was soon after in-
habited by the dependante of Prince
Menschikoff, to whom Peter the Great
gave it It was called Yassili Ostroff,
or Basirs Island, after the name of
the commander of a battery placed at
the E. extremity of the island. Here
Prince Menschikoff erected a palace,
now a military school (at the comer of
the "1st Line ") ; and here also rose the
" French Colony," a group of pret^
houses in which Peter located his
foreign workmen, but of which no
traces remain. The first brick house
was built in 1710, by the chancellor.
Count Golofkin, at the spot where the
Nevka branches off from the Neva.
The Admiralty began to be recon-
structed in brick in 1711. The palaces
of the Nobles, originally of wood, were
soon after replaced by more durable
and elegant buildings. Prince Men-
schikoff erected anotiier residence on
the site of the present Senate House.
The marshy natureof the soil presented
obstacles which were only to be van-
quished by the most indomitable
energy and perseverance. - For many
years, every cart and each vessel enter-
ing the new town was bound to bring
a certain number of stones, which were
Soute 1. — St, Petersburg,
73
uM in paving streets. On the death
of Peter the construction of St Peters-
) burg relaxed in vigour, although
Cayenne I. continued to inhabit &e
city. Peter II. preferred Moscow, and
died there. The Empress Anne fixed
her residence at St Petersburg, and
occupied the palace of Count Apraxin,
on ike site of the present Winter
Palace. Many buildings were erected
In her reign. The elegant spire of the
Admiralty was then added. The soil
was raised in places where the river
threatenai to overwhelm it, and the
streets assumed a more regular aspect
Thenceforward the court of Bussia
sctUed pemianently at St Petersburg.
Bnooessive sovereigns erected monu-
ments, and strove to embellish their
new capital The Empress Catherine
caused a quay of fgranite to be built
alone" the left bank of the rapid Neva,
whidi did not,however, save the capital
from inundations in 1728, 1729, 1735,
1740, 1752, 1777, and 1824. On the
last occasion the waters rose 18 ft 4 in.
above their ordinary leveL
The historical associations of the most
remarkable buildings of St Petersburg
will be mentioned in proper order.
The traveller who wishes to obtain a
Hiore accurate Imowledge of the topo-
;n^phy of the city is recommended to
ascend the dome of St Isaac's. From
^lere, looking N., he will see the Vassili
Ostrof, or Basil Island, and on it the
Exchange, tiie Academy of Sciences,
the Univerai^, the 1st Military School
(or Corps do Cadets), and the Academy
of Arts, aU feeing the river. A little
to the leH is the Citadel, and beyond
it, to the N. and W., are the islands of
Aptekarski (with the College of Sur-
jreonB), Kamennoi, Petrofski, Krestof-
ski, and ElaghinskL To the E. of the
Great Nevka, and the N. bank of
the NewAt are barracks, factories, and
various government establishments.
The csommunication between the main-
land and these islands is limited to
Uixee bridges: the Nicholas Bridge,
on magnificent granite piers, and
i'le^^tkni iron arches (cast at Baird's
vork« at the month of the river) ; the
Ihrorlsovy, or Palace Bridge, of boats,
between the Exchange and the Winter
Palace ; the Troitski Floating Bridge,
between the fortress and the Champs
de Mars, and opposite to the British
Embassy (on the S. side of the river) ;
and lasfly, the Voskresenski Floating
Bridge, also of boats. The islands
themselves are connected by numerous
other bridges: and ferry-boats and
small steamers still further complete
the means of communication between
them.
On the islands, as well as in every
other part of the ci^, may be descried
the wateh-towerSf from which strict
look-out is kept day and night for
fires. They are lofty circular build-
ings, with an iron apparatus projecting
many feet above "tiiem, designed for
making signals to show in what part
of the town the fire has broken out.
This is done by hanging out balls by
day, and lanterns by night, varying
their number and arrangement accord-
ing to the situation of the conflagra-
tion. These towers are the best places
for obtaining views of many parts of
the capital. In a city built so much
of timber as St Petersburg a fire
spreads with the speed of lightning,
and the destruction caused both to life
and properly is frequently fearful.
South of the Admiralty the most
important part of the city presents
itself, stretching along that bank of
the Neva, which for nearly 4 miles pur-
sues a south-westerly course. Hero
reside the court, the nobility, and
more than half tiie population. The
closely built masses of this side of
the river are divided into 3 semi-
circular divisions by the Moika, the
St Catherine, and the Fontanka canals,
and these are intersected by 3 principal
streets radiating &om the Admiralty,
— ^the Neva Perspective (Nevski-Pros-
pekt), the Peas-street (Gorokhovaia-
Ulitsa), and the Ascension Perspec-
tive (Vosnesenski-Prospekt). As these
streets thus diverge from the Ad-
miralty, a person stetioned in the lofty
gallery of that building may, with tho
aid of a telescope, see what is going
on at their remote extremities. The
direction of these 3 great thorough&res
Uigitized Dy ^^JKJKJWiy^
74
Boute 1. — St Petersburg,
Sect. I.
and the canals determino that of most
of the other streets, of which the most
remarkable are the Great and Little
Morskaia, the Millionaya, the Mes-
chanskaya, and the Sadovaya, or
Garden-street. All the streets are,
without exception, broad and con-
venient, blind alleys and narrow lanes
being wholly unknown. They are
classed, indeed, in prospektSt (formerly
streets with 2 rows of trees) iditsi, and
peretdolcs or cross streets, but even
these pereulohs would be thought in
most continental towns quite spacious
enough for main streets. They are,
however, very badly paved. Beyond
the Fontanka, along the banks of which
is ranged a succession of palaces, lie
the more remote portions of the city,
which merge by degrees in the swamps
of Ingermanland, or Ingria. To the
E., on the rt. bank of the Neva, are
the villages of the Great and Little
Okhta, and these, with the suburbs
on the Ligofka and Zagorodni canals,
are peopled by the labouring classes.
The front of the Admiralty, towards
the vast open space of the same name,
is nearly half an Eng. m. in length,
and its 2 sides at rt. angles to it, and
running down to the river, are 650
Eng. ft. long ; one of these sides faces
the Winter Palace, the other the
" Isaac's Place " and the Senate House.
The effect of the light and graceful
spire of the Admiralty is very pleasing,
but the gallery at its base is greatly
disfigured by some emblematical figures
in plaster. Over the principal entrance
are some gigantic frescoes in relief,
emblematical of Russia's power and
strength ; one of the groups is intended
to represent Peter the Great receiving
a trident from the hands of Neptune.
A considerable portion of the Ad-
miralty is devoted to schoolrooms for
naval cadets ; the rest is occupied by
the civil departments of the navy, and
by a naval museum. Only vessels of
very small burden are built at the
dockyard of the Admiralty, the slips
for frigates and ships of that descrip-
tion are lower down the river at the
end of the English Quay.
On the S. front of the Admiralty is
the noble Ploschad, or square, called
after it, round which are grouped the
chief buildings of the capital ; amongst
these is tlie ** Hotel de TEtat Major,"
where the Foreign Office and the De-
partment of Customs are likewise
located. The War Office stands
alongside the Cathedral. The Senate
and the Synod flank the Admiralty
Place on the W. On the rt., and
skirting the river, is the Winter
Palace. The circumference of the
open spaces, bordered by the public
buildings just mentioned, is not muqh
less than an Eng. mile. At one
extremity, near the Senate and the
Synod, stands the colossal equestrian
stetue of Peter the Great, while the
other is gracefully ornamented by the
smooth and polished monolith raised
to the memory of the Emperor Alex-
ander I. The quays and the Neva are
as much animated by shipping as the
streets are by carriages and tlie canals
by passing boats. But, beautiful, re-
gular, and vast as this view of St
Petersburg really is, the traveller will
look in vain for anything approaching
the picturesque. No buildings are
raised above the rest ; masses of archi-
tecture, worthy of mountains for their
pedestals, are ranged side by side in
endless lines, and the eye, nowhere
gratified either by elevation or group-
ing, wanders unsatisfied over a mon-
otonous sea of undulating palaces,
vainly seeking a point of antiquity or
shade on which to repose. This is
particularly obvious in winter, when
streets, river, and houses are all covered
with snow. In spring, when the sun
removes the pale shroud from the
earth and the waters, the lively green
of the painted roofs and the bright
cupolas of the chs. enable the eye again
to revel in the long untasted enjoy-
ment of colour, while the river gaily
mirrors the palaces that grace its
banks.
No one can have a just opinion of
the daring position of St. Petersburg
who has' not mounted one of her arti-
ficial heights, and viewed the immense
body of waters in which she floats like
a bark oyerMen^mth .precious goods,
Russia. Boute 1. — St. Petersburg : Isaac Cathedral,
75
while the waves seem as if, deriding
her false foundations, they would over-
turn in a few hours that which the
will of man had raised with such un-
tiring labour and energy. When a
S.W. wind is lifting the Gulf furiously
towards the city, and the Neva, re-
joicing in its strength, is dashing along
the quays and tossing to and fro the
vessels moored close to them, it requires
no further evidence to show the stranger
what might be the fate of the thousands
who inhabit it.
Presuming, therefore, that the tra-
veller has followed our directions, and
taken a bird's-eye view of this city of
palaces and its suburbs, and made him-
self generally acquainted with their
topograpliical position, he may descend
into the streets, and traverse the bridges,
islands, great thoroughfares, quays, and
squares, with a view of acquiring more
in detail a knowledge of their chief
characteristics — the external appear-
ance of the great pubUc buildings,
shops, and population ; and then take
the sights at leisure as they present
themselves most conveniently, or as
his individual taste may suggest. This
plan of a general survey will in some
degree satisfy the feeling of restless
curiosity consequent upon a recent
arrival in scenes utterly strange, and
better prepare the mind for the quiet
contemplation of the great sights which
have subsequently to be examined — no
small undertaking in a city where there
is so much to see. To a person ac-
customed to the moving crowds of
London or Paris, the frequently quiet
and deserted appearance of the vast
squares and spacious streets of St.
Petersburg is peculiarly striking ; and
this is owing to the insufficiency of
the population to fill the frame allotted
to it Such, however, is not the case
in the Nevski, the Regent-street of St.
Petersburg, 4 versts (3 m.) in extent,
and nearly in a right line. Here all is
life and movement, and no ten yards of
ground are passed that do not present
a scene or a subject that will arrest the
attention of the stranger. It has been
observed that the Nevski might be
called Toleration-street, from the num-
ber of churches of divers persnasions
in it : Greek, Eoman Catholic, Dutch,
and Armenian. Here also will be seen
the Kazan Cathedral, the Gostinnoi
Dvor (the Great Bazaar), and one of
the two great national theatres. The
houses are magnificent, rising to 3
and 4 stories. The most agreeable
hour to promenade the Nevski is the
afternoon, when the ladies do their
shopping, and the men go to look
at the fiskir purchasers. Pedestrians
always prefer the northern side, where
the most fashionable shops are situated.
The favourite promenade, however, in
winter, is the Court Quay.
The pleasure of a walk in the Nevski
is qualified in summer by the dust, for
there are no water-carts ; in winter this
inconvenience is not felt, and during
that season we think no capital in
Europe can present a more singular,
and in its way a more magnificent
spectacle, than the display of sledges
and costumes which crowd this street.
The traveller is referred to the plan
for the names of the streets. The prin-
cipal buildings are also marked on it,
and they may be visited in the order in
which they are here described.
According to a census taken in
1864, the Pop. of St. Petersburg is
547,422.
Sights of St. Pbtebsbueo.
1. Isaac Cathedral (dedicated to Si
Isaac of Dalmatia). — ^This edifice can-
not fail to excite the admiration of
those who appreciate grand propor-
tions, a simple but lofty style of archi-
tecture, and noble porticoes. The
situation also is highly suitable, for it
stands in one of the largest open spaces
in the capital, surrounded by its finest
buildings and monuments, and it will
give the stranger some idea of what
Russian quarries, mines, and workmen
can produce. Nothing can exceed
76
JRoute 1. — SL Petersburg : Isaac Cathedral, Sect. I.
the 8iinplicity''of the model ; no orna-
ment meets the eye; the architect
(Mons. Montferrand) has left aU to
tiie impression to be produced by
stupendous proportions and costli-
ness of material. On the spot where
the Isaac Church stands, the Rus-
sians had been at work upon a place
of worship for the last century. The
original one was in wood, erected
by Peter the Great in 1710, but this
was subsequently destroyed, and the
great Catherine commenced another,
which was finished in 1801. This
edifice vanished, however, in its turn,
and the present magnificent structure
has been erected in the course of three
reigns, having been commenced in
1819, and consecrated 1858. To make
a firm foundation, a whole forest of
piles was sunk in the swampy soil, at
a cost of 2O0,O00Z., and a further outlay
has recently been made in order to
prop up and prevent from sinking that
part of the cathedral which faces the
river. The present building is, as
usual, in the form of a Greek cross,
of four equal sides, and each of the
four grand entrances is approached
from the level of the Phice by three
broad flights of steps, each whole
flight being composed of one entire
piece of granite, formed out of masses
of rock brought from Finland. These
steps lead from the four sides of the
buUding to the four chief entrances,
each of which has a superb peristyle.
The pillars of these peristyles are 60
ft. liigh, and have a diameter of 7 ft.,
all magnificent, round, and highly-
polished granite monoliths, from Fin-
land. They are crowned with Corin-
thian capitals of bronze, and support
the enormous beam of a frieze formed
of six fire-polished blocks. Over the
peristyles, and at twice their height,
rises the chief and central cupola,
higher than it is wide, iu the Byzan-
tine proportion. It is supported also
by thirty pillars of smooiii polished
granite, which, although gigantic in
themselves, look small compared to
those below. The cupola is covered
with copper overlaid with gold, and
Utters like the sun over a mountain,
^m its centre rises a small elegant
rotunda, a miniature repetition of the
whole, looking like a chapel on the
mountain-top. The whole edifice is
surmounted by a far-seen golden cross.*
Four smaller cupolas, resembling the
greater in every particular, stand
around, and complete the harmony
visible in every part The embellish-
ments of the facade and windows have
been intrusted to various artists. The
group of figures on the pediment of
one of the former was designed by a
Frenchman, a Monsieur Le Maire ; the
subject is the Angel at the Tomb, with
the Magdalen and other female figures
on the one side, and the terrified
soldiers in every attitude of consterna-
tion on the other ; these bronze figures
are 8 ft. in height. The great dome ia
of iron, and, as well as the whole of
the bronze-work, was manufactured
at the foundry of Mr. Baird, of St.
Petersburg. In the interior of the ch.
the malachite columns for the ikono-
stas, or screen are more than 30 ft. in
height, and exceed anything that has
yet been done in that beautiful stone.
The pillar of lapis-lazuli on either
side of the door of the screen is very
valuable, 12,000?. the two, but has an
incongruous appearance next the ma-
lachite. The " Royal Door " of the
ikonostas is of bronze, and is 23 ft.
high by about 15 ft in breadth. Both
the malachite and lapis-lazuli pillars
are merely tubes of cast-iron on which
the stone has been laid in mosaic
work.
The inmost shrine is placed in a
small circular temple, the dome sup-
ported by 8 Corinthian pillars of mala-
chite, about 8 ft high, with gilt bases
* We may here correct a popular error re-
specting the significatioii of the Crescent, so fie*'
quently seen in combination with the C^oss on
Russian cupolas. It is not anblematical of the
triumph of the Greek Church over Mahomed-
anism after the expulsion of the Tartars frtm
Russia, for it was a device used in the earliest
Russian churches long before the invasion, and
was imported from Byzantium on the tntrodac-
tion of Christianity. The Holy Virgin is repre-
sented in the most ancient Greek pictures with
her feet resting on a crescent, and the cross sub-
sequently placed over it by the Russian Church
is therefore supposed by the Suffragan Bishop of
Moscow to typify the issuing of the Cross from
the Mother of God.
fiussia. Boule 1. — St. Pekrimrg : Church Ceremonies.
77
and capitals ; the exterior of the dome
} is covered with a profusion of gilding
on a ground of malachite, and the
interior is of lapis-lazuli. The mala-
chite of the 8 pillars weighs about
34,000 lbs. EngUsh, and its cost was
25,000Z. It was worked by Messrs.
KichoUs and Plincke of the " English
Magazine" at St. Petersburg. The
walls and floor are of polished marbles of
various colours, which have been found
in the Russian dominions, and the
whole is raised on steps of polished
porphyry. There is, perhaps, too
much gilding about this very beautiful
work, but this is in accordance with
its position in a Greek church. It was
presented to the Emperor by Prince
Demidoflf, who procured the malachite
from his mines in Siberia, and sent it
to Italy to be worked ; its value is said
to be as much as 1,000,000 of rubles.
All the pictures on liie walls are by
Russian artists. Many of them are
of mosaic work executed at a manu-
fectory close to the Academy of Arts.
It is from the rotunda over the great
dome that the traveller is recom-
mended to view the capital on a bright
and clear day ; and in this ch. also he
should, if so minded, witness some of
the ceremonies of the Greek Church.
The hours of Divine service are from
6to 8 AJL, 10 to 12, and from 4 to 6;
and on Saturdays from 6 to 7*15 p.m.
On holydays of the Church these hours
are advanced by 30 minutes. The
i«inging is the most effective portion of
tlie service, and most of the prayers
are intoned. The choristers of this
cathedral rank in efficiency next after
those of the Court Chapel, whose re-
iicarsals may be attended on applica-
tion to the Director of the School at
the "Singers' Bridge." In the cere-
monies of the Russian Church, boys,
as in OUT cathedrals, take the soprano
parts. Considerable expense is in-
curred for deep basses, the best voices
being everywhere sought for and
liberally remunerated. They are not
^ exactly for the choir, but for certain
half-recitative solos, occasionally re-
quired in the service, and which must
always be delivered by amazingly
strong and deep bass voices, such as
" Gospodi pomilui :" The Lord have
mercy ! or. Lord we pray thee ; Grant
this, O Lord, &c. It has somewhat
the effect of as many double basses all
executing the same short arpeggio
passage, and repeating it without any
variation in the chord, time, or tone ;
it is therefore tedious when frequently
heard. One of the most impressive
portions of the service is towards the
close ; the doors of the Ikonostas are
then shut, the chanting ceases, the
incense-bearers withdraw, and every
one seems breathless with attention ;
at length the "Royal doors" in the
centre are reopened and thrown back,
and the priest, carrying on his head
an enormous voliune, which he steadies
with both hands, comes forward and
commences a long recitative: during
this every one bends low in a humble
attitude of adoration : the large volume
contains the Gospels ; the prayer is for
the Emperor.
In Russia the outward forms of
the Greek Church seem to have taken
as firm and enduring a hold of the
men as of the women, all classes
alike participating in this strong
feeling of external devotion. The
first proceeding of a Russian on
entering a church is to purchase a
wax candle, a supply of which is
generally kept near the door, and the
sale of which constitutes a very lucra-
tive traffic ; bearing this in one hand, he
slowly approaches one of the shrines :
at a short distance from it he sinks on
one knee, bowing his head to the pave-
ment, and crossing his breast re-
peatedly with the thumb and two
forefingers of his right hand ,- having
at length reached the shrine itself, he
lights his votive candle at the holy
lamp, and sets it up in one of the
various holes in a large silver plate
provided for the purpose, and falling
low on his bended knees kisses the
pavement before the altar. His prayers
are few and short, and he retires slowly
with his face to the altar, kneeling and
crossing himself at intervals.
This kindling of lamps and tapers in
Russian churches is a pleasing custom ;
the little flame is so living a symbol of
V 2
78
Boute 1. — SL Petersburg : Clergy,
Sect. I.
the continued life of the soul, and, be-
yond all other material things, flame is
the best representation of the spiritual.
The Russians have so closely adopted
this idea that there is no interment,
no baptism, no betrothing, in short, no
sacred ceremony, without lamp or
taper; fire is for them the pledge of
the presence of the Holy Spirit ; and
hence illuminations play the most im-
portant part in the ceremonies of the
Greek Church.
The following extract from the last
edition of the * Encyclopfedia Britan-
nica,* relative to the rites of the Russo-
Greek Church, may here be read with
advantage.
** The Greco-Russian Church guards
vigilantly against the introduction of
any doctrine open to the slightest
suspicion of heresy, and has its own
censorship and journals. It is also
very observant of hierarchical subor-
dination. Generally, however, the
Russian clergy, although jealous of
their dignity, have not the spiritual
pride or priestcraft of the Roman
Catholic order, attributable no doubt
in part to the kindly national character,
and in part to the humanizing in-
fluence of marriage, which prevents
the overwhelming concentration of
all the human passions into one single
channel. The Greco-Russian Church
is mostly antagonistic to the Roman
Catholic, and diflers from it in the
following essential particulars: — 1. In
not recognizing the primacy of the
Pope. 2. In denying that the Holy
Ghost proceeds from the Son (JUio-
que). 3. In rejecting a purgatory, pre-
destination (except in the omniscience
of the Deity), indulgences, dispensa-
tions, and works of supererogation,
although admitting the intercession
of saints by prayer. 4. It holds^the
necessity of complete submersion of
the body at baptism, unless in urgent
cases, when even laymen and women
may perform it ; but they must immerse
the infant with the baptismal words,
' In the name of the Father, Son, and
Holy Ghost,' if the infant can bear the
immersion ; if not, then sprinkling or
ablution is used. Should the priest
arrive in time, he reads the supple-
mentary prayers, and performs the
mystery of anointing with chrism.
5. Whilst admitting the doctrine of
transubstantiation in regard to the
eucharist, it affirms that the holy
bread (irpoff^opa) must be leavened;
the wine and water being placed in
the chalice; and it is only at the
prayer of transubstantiation that part
of the agntbs is placed in the chalice.
The element of wine with water is
"alone administered to children up to
the age of seven, for fear of the elements
being ejected or falling to the ground.
6. Another important distinction is
that marriage is obligatory on the
secular clergy, although monogamy is
a strict tenet of the Church. A priest
may continue to serve after his wife
dies. 7. No instrumental music is
allowed, but vocal music forms a most
attractive portion of the service.
"This Church rejects all massive
images of the Saviour or saints as
idolatrous ; but pictures, mosaics, bas-
reliefs, and, in short, all that is re-
presented on a flat surface, is not
held a violation of the law which
says, * Thou shalt not make imto
thee any graven image 1' Broadly
stated, and besides some of the pre-
ceding tenets, the Greco-Russian re-
ligion differs from the Anglican, in so
far as the latter Church approaches
to the Lutheran. The general har-
mony, however, with the Anglican is
greater than with any other church;
and several attempts have been made,
but not successfully, to unite them,
particularly in 1723. Addresses still
pass at intervals between the two
Churches ; and independently of the
Irvingites, the ritual of Hatherly*s
new commimity at Liverpool so
strongly resembles the Greek service
that it has attracted the notice of the
Russian synod.
"There are four great fasts: — 1.
Lent, or the great fast, between the
carnival and Easter, of seven weeks*
duration, and of which the first and
last are the most rigidly observed,
being more specially devoted to re-
pentance, confession, and prepariiig
for the sacrament; 2. The Petroff,
Euflsia. Boute 1. — St. Petersburg : Church Service.
79
or Peter's fast, before St. Peter's
day, in June, of two to five weeks'
> duration, accordingly as Easter Sun-
day falls ; 3. The Uspenski, or Con-
ception fast, called by the people
the Gospbzinki, from the 1st to 15th
August. 4. The PhUippoff, or St Phi-
lip's fast, of six weeks before Christmas.
The first fast, or Lent, is the most
rigidly observed. Besides the above,
Ahe Wednesday and Friday of every
■^^Jxffeek are fast-days, and the common
people scrupulously keep them all.
Catechising and preaching are prac-
tised, — ^the latter frequently, the former
at set intervals. Confirmation is not
practised, the chrism used at baptism
being held to comprise a mystery,
rendering that ceremony supereroga-
tory. The Church festivals and saints'
days, kept with Eastern splendour,
are numerous, and consequently form
drawbacks to the business of life,
although they greatly relieve the
labouring classes.
"The venerative feeling of the
people is profound, and they are
zc^ous church-goers, early and late,
being due observers besides of all
the outward forms of religion, in
which the essence is sometimes ab-
sorbed. There is, however, much
genuine piety to be met with; pil-
grimages to monasteries are frequent
among all classes ; donations, free
gifts, offerings, and alms, being liber-
ally bestowed by both rich and poor.
There are no entrance-fees, no distinc-
tions for great and little, no pews, no
reservwi places in Russian churches :
the congregation stand : all are equal
before God. The Sabbath is not much
observed, except as a church-going
day. The shops are shut during the
hoars of worship, but all public places
of amusement are afterwards thrown
open; yisits are made, and business
in bat little affected by obedience to
this salutary ordinance of the supreme
lawgiver.
••The Church service is performed
^ in the ancient Church Slavonic, and
' the lower classes cannot therefore
<^»mpletely follow it, except as a thing
thi-y take for granted, although they
comprehend its general signification. \
The Bible, however, is now partly
translated into the vernacular Russ.
The congregation fervently join in
the choral parts, the responses, and
the ejaculations. This portion of the
service, and the great pomp investing
the whole system of worship, together
with the procession of banners, pic-
tured saints, and relics, have no doubt
been the great means of originally
impressing on a rude people the holy
awe they entertain for Tsar and
Church; which two, with them, are
identical. Church service usually con-
sists of the VdzglasSy or call to wor-
ship; singing of psalms or hymns;
the Ektenid, a series of prayers, mostly
intoned, for the welfare of the Church
and her chiefs, for the peace and union
of the Christian. Churches, and for
every separate member of 4he imperial
family; the reading of the epistles
and evangel ; choral and part singing
of unexampled harmony; a sermon,
always in the common language, ex-
plaining the evangel read; prayers,
preparing for the Communion, and
during which the priest prepares him-
self; the consecration of the elements,
and the administration of the sacra-
ment, which the clergyman takes
every time, and the congregation at
will ; then, thanksgiving for the sacra-
ment, and parting benediction ; the
chanting and incense-burning through-
out being frequent. Asperging with
holy water is also used. The Old
Testament is read only during even-
ing service, which is intended to
prepare for the morning or principal
service, and it therefore has a pro-
phetic tendency, the psalms and hymns
being all appropriate. The morning
service represents the fulfilment of
these prophecies. Service much of
the same kind is often performed —
sometimes exorcisms too — at private
houses, on special occasions ; and the
remembrance-service, or PaminJdj forty
days after a person's death, is a pious
custom ; as is that of the yearly visita-
tion of family graves, although this
often degenerates into revelling. It is
another laudable custom of the Rus-
sians to remove their hats, in the
streets, before all funerals '&^ pass.
80
Boutel, — St, Petersburg: Kazan Cathedral, Sect. I.
Every Russian is obliged to take the
sacrament at- least once a year.
"The calendar i^use is the Julian or
Greek, which is twplye days behind the
Gregorian or Latin. The antagonism
of the two Churches is perhaps the
chief objection to a reform in this
respect. The superstitious belief of
the common people in good and bad
spirits, in house-spectres, forest and
water demons, is fast dying out,
although too much credence is still
given to omens and witchcraft."
2. Kazan Caihedraly dedicated to
Our Lady of Kazan.
This ch. stands in the Nevski Per-
spective, and will be easily recognised
by its colonnade in imitation of St.
Peter*s at Rome. It was founded in
1802, and consecrated in 1811, after
an outlay of about 600,000?. Built
on piles, it has the shape of a cross,
with a length of 238 ft. between its
extremities, and a breadth of 182
ft. The cupola and cross rise more
than 230 ft. above the ground. Inside
the ch. a colonnade extends in 4 rows
from the 4 pillars which support the
cupola towards the altar and the 3
principal doors of the cathedral. It
consists of 56 monoliths of Finland
granite, 35 ft. in height, resting on
bronze bases and terminating in
Corinthian capitals of the same metal.
The ikonostas is of silver, as well as
the balustrade in front. An inscrip-
tion on it states that the silver of
which it is made was a " zealous offer-
ing of the Don Cossacks," after the
campaign of 1812. The name of the
Almighty is rendered in precious
stones, in the centre of the principal
door of the screen ; the glory around
is only gilt. The miraculous image of
the Virgin, brought from Kazan in
1579 and removed to St. Petersburg in
1821, will be seen in the ikonostas,
covered with fine gold and precious
ones valued at more than 15,000?.
The huge sapphire was presented by
the Grand Duchess Catherine Pav-
lovna. The other paintings are by
Russian academicians. Four immense
candelabra of silver stand .before the
principal altar-screen. The pulpit,
the imperial seat, or rather stand, and
the floor are of coloured marble, with,
steps of highly polished jasper.
The tomb of Greneral Kutusoff-Smo-
lenskoi will be seen under the trophies
of wars with France, Turkey, and
Persia. He lies buried on the spot
where he prayed before setting out to
meet the enemy in 1812. The btlton
of Davoust, Prince of Eckmuhl, and
the keys of many fortresses, are sus-
pended against the piUars of this
military-looking cathedral. Among
the keys are those of Hamburg, Leip-
sio, Dresden, Rheims, Breda, and
Utrecht.
In front of the cathedral are two
well-executed statues ; one of Kutuspfif
of Smolensk, the other of General Bar-
clay de Tolly.
3. Winter Palace. — ^Having inspected
the two nearest and principal churches,
the traveller is advised to view the
several palaces and their treasures.
The Winter Palace, the residence of
the Emperor and his court during
winter, stands on the left bank of the
Neva, on the site of a house which in
the reign of Peter the Great belonged
to his High Admiral, Count Apraxin,
who bequeathed it to the Emperor
Peter n. The Empress Anne, after
being crowned at Moscow, took up
her residence in Apraxin's house, but
had it pulled down in 1754 and rebuilt
by Count Rastrelli, by whom it was
completed in 1762, in the reign of the
Empress Catherine. A oonflAgration,
which is supposed to have originated
in some defect in the stoves, consumed
the whole interior of the building
in December, 1837, notwithstanding
every effort made to save it. It soon,
Enssta.
Boute 1. — St» Petersburg : Wilder Palace.
81
however, rose again from its embers.
In 1839 the Winter Palace was en-
tirely restored. The huge pile is now
four stories high, or about 80 ft. The
frontage is 455 feet in' length, and the
breadth 350 feet. The principal en-
trance, or " Perron des Ambassa-
denrs," is from the I^eva, and leads
by a magnificent flight of marble
steps to the state apartments of the
palace. A gateway in the centre of
the building, facing Alexander's Co-
lumn, opens into a large court. Visitors,
after procuring a ticket,* are admitted
by an entrance to the right of that
gateway. One of the Imperial servants
will conduct them through the several
apartments, of which the most magni-
ficent are — the Throne-room of Peter
L, where the diplomatic corps gene-
rally present their congratulations on
New Year's Day; the White HaU;
the Hall of St. George, a parallelo-
gram of 140 ft. by 60 ; the GaUery of
the Field-marshals, with portraits of
those who fought against the French,
including the Duke of Wellington;
and the Alexander Gallery, with the
portraits of the generals who resisted
the French invasion in 1812, executed
by our countryman, George Dawe.
Several rooms will be passed contain-
ing pictures of battles in Poland, in
Italy, in Germany, and the Crimea.
The Englishman may pause at a large
picture of the battle of Balaclava,
placed in a small dark room, and
remember with pride the charge of
the gallant six hundred. The' battle
of Sinope is among the representations
of naval engagements in which the
Russian flag triumphed. The follow-
ing is a list of the principal rooms,
and a summary of the pictures which
they contain ; —
Alexander EaU. — 1. Portrait of Em-
peror Alexander I., by Dawe, 2. Battle
of Kulm, 18th (30th) August, 1813
(Vandamme beaten by Barclay de
Tolly). 3. Battle of Leipzig, 6th
• Tickets to view the Palace may be had at
the entrance to the Council of the Empire, close
to the little canal which rises in the Neva. The
servants who show the several apartments
fihoiUd have DuiaU fees,
(18th) August, 1813. 4. F^re Gham-
penoise, 13th (25th) March. 1814. 5.
Taking of Paris, 18th (30th) March.
1814— tlie last four by Sauertoaid,
Beserve Boom.^I. 1. Battle at Bash-
Eadyk-Lar, defeat of the Turks, 19th
Nov. (Ist Dec.). 1853, by (TT.) WiVs-
walde. 2. Defeat of the Turks at
Kuruk-Dar, 27th July (8th Aug.)»
1854, by Baikov. 3. Taking of a
bastion at Varna, 25th Sept. (7th Oct.),
1828. by Sauenoaid. 4. Taking of
Akaltsykh, 15th (27th) Aug. 1828. by
StJthodohky, 5. Storming of Gunib,
where Shamyl was taken prisoner, 26th
Aug. (7th Sept.), 1859, by Grmimky.
6. Battle of Poltawa, 27th June (9th
July). 1709. by Kotz^me. 7. Battle of
Kersk, 17th (29th) Sept. 1855, by
WiUemdde, 8. Taking of Akhta, by
Baikov,
II. 1. Naval engagement off Revel,
9th (21st) May. 1790. 2, Naval en-
gagement off Krasnaya Gorka (near
Cronstadt), 23rd May (4th June), 1790.
3. Naval engagement at Wiborg, 29th
June (10th July), 1790, all by Aiva-
zovshy. 4. Naval engagement off Mount
Athos, 17th (29th) July, 1807, by
Bogolubov, 5. Battle of Navarino, 20th
Oct. (1st Nov.), 1827. 6. Destruction
of the Turkish fleet at Sinope, 18th
(30th) Nov. 1853.— All by Aivasmjsky.
7. Defeat of the Turkish army at
Tcheleti (Asia), by Prince Makmtov.
III. 1. Battle of Smolensk, 15th
(27th) Aug. 1812. 2. Battle of Va-
lutino, 7th (19th) Aug. 1812. 3.
Battle of Borodino, 26th Aug. (8th
Sept.), 1812. 4. Battle of Klestizy,
19th (31st) July, 1812. 5. Exploit of
General Newerowsky, at Krasnoe', 2nd
(14th) Aug. 1812. 6. Battie of Taru-
tino, 6th (18th) October, 1812. 7.
Battle of Malcf-Yaroslavitz, 12th (24th)
October, 1812. 8. Battle of Polotsk,
7th (19th) Aug. 1812. 9. Battle of
Losmin, 6th (18th) Nov. 1812. 10.
Battle of Viasma, 22nd Oct. (3rd Nov.),
1812. 11. Battle of Krasnoe, 6th
(18th) Nov. 1812. 12. Passage of the
Berezina, 16th (28th) Nov. 1812.— All
82
BotUe 1. — St. Peteri^rg : Winter Palace.
Sect. I.
IV. 1. Taking of Berlin, 28th Sept.
roth Oct), 1760. 2. Capture of Col-
berg (Pomerania), 5th (16th) Dec.
1761. 3. Battle of Trebia, 9tli (21st)
June, 1799. 4. Battle of Novi, 4th
(15th) Aug. 1799. 5. Suvorov at the
DeviFs bridge, 14th (26th) Sept. 1799.
6. Battle of Muttine, 20th Sept. (let
Oct.), 1799. 7. Suvorov crossing the
St Gtothard, 24th Sept. (6th Oct.),
1799.— All by Koizebae,
V. 1. Battie of Narva, 17th (29th)
Nov. 1700. 2. Capture of Noteborg
(Sohliisselburg). 11th (23rd) Oct 1702.
3. Battle of Gross Jagerndorf, 19th
(31st) Aug. 1757. 4. Battle of Zom-
dorflf, 14th (26th) Aug. 1758. 5. En-
fagement at Ziillichau, 12th (24th)
uly, 1759. 6. Battle of Kiinersdorff.
7. Suvorov and the Grand Duke Con-
stantine on the Pannix, 1799. — All by
Koizdme.
(xuard Boom. — 1. Taking of Otchar
kov. 6th (18th) Dec. 1788, by Sukho-
Msky, 2. Battle of Elisavetpol, 13th
(25th) Sept 1826; Abbas Mirza, heir
apparent of Persia, beaten by Paske-
vitch, by the same artist 3. Death
of a young Russian drummer, 18th
(30th) March, 1814, by Bmchlin, 4.
Don Cossacks crossing the Theiss
(Hungary), 16th (28th) June, 1848,
by WiU&ujdde, 5. Taking of Erzerum,
20th June (2nd July), 1829, by &uklio-
doUky. 6. Taking of Ears, 23rd June
(5th July), 1829, by the same.
Dark Boom, near the Guard Eoom. —
1. Death of General Moreau at Dres-
den, by Steuben. 2. Battle of Leipzig,
by Beuchlin. 3. Battle of Balaclava,
13th (25th) Oct 1854, by SukhodoUky.
4. Death of General Slepzov in the
battle near the river Gech, 10th (22nd)
Dec. 1851, by Pririce Maksutoff. 5.
Skirmish of Bussian* and Turkish
tioops near Sevastopol, by Willewalde.
Corridor. — Several battle-pieces by
Bourguignon, T. Parrocel, and others.
Portrait GaXUry.—l. Field-Marshal
Prince Volkonsky, bv Kruger. 2.
General Prince Chemycheff. 3. Field-
Marshal Prince Wittgenstein. 4.
General Prince Orloff. 5. General
Count Riidiger. 6. General Count
Kisseleif. 7. Admiral Prince Menchi-
koff. — All by Kruger. 8. Count Nessel-
rode. Chancellor of the Empire. 9.
General Count Benkendorff. 10.
General Prince Vassilchikoflf. 11.
Field Marshal Prince Bariatinsky. 1 2.
Prince Kotchubey, Chancellor of the
Empire. 13. Prince A. Galitzin. 14.
Prince S. Galitzin. — All hy Bothemann.
15. General Count Adlerberg. 16.
General Count Kleinmichel.— Both by
Kruger. 17. Field-Marshal Count
Berg, by Simmler.
Fidd-MarshaVs Boom.—l. Taking of
Wola, 25th Aug. (6th Sept.), 1831, by
Horace Vemet. 2. Gorgey surrender-
ing the Hungarian army to General
Count Luders, Ist (13th) Aug. 1849,
by WiUewald. 3. Prince Suvoroff, by
Frost. 4. Count Paskevitch, by Kruger.
5. Count Eiunianzoff, by Bies. 6.
Prince Potemkin. 7. Prince Kutuzov,
hjBakhtine. 8. Count'Dibitsch, by the
same.
Hall of Peter the Great.— PQ\Bt at-
tended by the Genius of Russia.
The most elegant and glitterinj^
apartment is the drawing-room of
the Empress, of which the walls
and the ceiling are gilded. The
light of day can however scarcely
do justice to all the magnificence
which will be shown to the visitor.
The art of illuminating at night is
nowhere so well known as in Russia,
and candles are still happily pre-
ferred to gas. No court in Europe
presents such a brilliant appearance
as that of Russia seen in the Winter
Palace. The arrangements are on the
most sumptuous scale, and sit-down
suppers are always supplied at a ball,
whatever the number of the invitcxl
may be. One of the larger halls is
sometimes converted into a garden of
delicious verdure by the inl3t)duction
of exotic plants and fruit-trees. On
such occasions two rows of tables
extend down the room, each over-
shadowed by a beautiful tree in full
leaf, under whichthe dames and tlieir
cavaliers, in groups of eight, partake
Eussia.
Boute 1. — St Petersburg : Crown Jeweht.
83
of an elegant supper after the fatigues
of the waltz and the Mazurka. An
f Imperial table, raised and apart, com-
mands the whole view.
After passing through the state
apartments and galleries the visitor
will be taken to see the Romanoff
Portrait Gallery, which contains tlie
likenesses of all the Sovereigns of
the reigning House since Michael Fe-
dorowitcb, and those of their consorts.
Peter the Great will be seen suspended
in many frames. At the door of this
gallery, to the right on entering, ob-
serve a green curtain drawn over a
tablet It conceals the rules which
Catherine enforced at her conversazioTie
in the Hermitage, which begins here.
The following is a translation of those
rules: —
1. Leave your rank outside, as well as your
hat, and especially your sword.
2. Leave your right of precedence, your pride,
and any similar feeling, outside the door.
3. Be gay, but do not spoil anything ; do not
break or gnaw anything.
4. Sit, stand, walk as you will, without refer-
ence to anybody.
5. Talk moderately and not very loud, so as
not to make the ears and heads of others
ache.
6. Argae without anger and without excite-
ment
7. Neither sigh nor yawn, nor make anybody
doll or heavy.
' ^S. In all innocent games, whatever one pro-
poses, let all join.
, 9. Eat whatever is sweet and savoury, but
drink with moderation, so that each may
find his 1^^ on leaving the room.
10. Tell no tales out of school; whatever goes
in at one ear must go out at the other
before leaving the room.
A transgressor against these rules shall, on
the testimony of two witnesses, for every offence
drink a glass of cold water, not excepting the
ladies, and further read a page of the Telema-
chiade* aloud.
Whoever breaks any three of these rules dur-
ing the same evening shall commit six Hues of
the Telemachiade to memory.
And whoever offends agamst the tenth rule
shall not again be admitted.
Beyond this gallery is another long
narrow room, in which the traveller
will find numerous oil paintings repre-
, senting St. Petersburg at various
stages of construction.
* By Tretiakofeky, an unfortunate native
poety whose muse was thus reviled.
Before going down stairs to see the
room in which Nicholas I. died, ask to
see the Crown Jewels, deposited in a
room on the 2nd floor.
Croum Jewels. — The great Orloff dia-
mond surmounts the Imperial sceptre
of Russia, and is a worthy ornament
for the emblem of a dominion so ex-
tensive. This splendid diamond was
an acquisition made in the reign of
Catherine H. Its previous history has
been represented by stories, not only
different, but contradictory. One tra-
dition rife in Bussia and the neigh-
bouring Asiatic countries has sought
to explain the great difference between
the weight of the Koh-i-noor and the
original weight of a vast diamond
which belonged to Shah Jehaun, with
which it was confounded by Tavemier,
on the supposition that the Koh-i-noor
and a slab now at Kokan are the
severed fragments that once combined
to form that huge diamond of 793
carats, and it has even been suggested
that the Orloff diamond formed once
a part of the same stone. Tavemier,
however, mentions that this stone was
ruined in the process of cutting, while
the true history of the Koh-i-noor goes
back to at least the time of Baber;
whereas Bernier describes the huge
diamond alluded to as having been
found in Golconda in the time of
Shah Jehaun. Furthermore, the Orloff
diamond exhibits to a practised eye a
faint tint of greenish yellow, while
the Koh-i-noor is colourless. The
most authentic of the many stories
about the diamond appears to be this.
It once formed the eye in an idol in a
temple at Seringham, near Trichino-
poly, in India. Into this temple a
French renegade soldier introduced
himself in a menial capacity, and took
his opportunity to despoil the idol of
its precious eye. Escaping to Malabar
with his prize, he sold it to a ship's
captain for a sum of 2000 guineas,
from whom a Jew acquired it for
12,000 guineas. An Armenian mer-
chant, Lazareff (called in one account
Schafras), purchased it from the Jew,
and offered it for sale at the court of
the Russian Ii:ffii)i^k. Catherine II.
p 3
84
Boute 1. — SL Peteri^urg : Crown Jewels,
Sect. I.
did not accept the terms of the Arme-
nian, and he bore it back to Amster-
dam. It was here that the name of
Orloff became associated with that of
the splendid jewel; for the famous
Connt purchased it, and laid it as a
gift at the feet of his Imperial mistress.
The price is stated to have been
450,000 silver rubles, a life annuity
of 2000 rubles, and a patent of no-
bility. Another account makes it a
part of the spoils of Nadir Shah, and
an ornament in the throne he took
from the Mogul Emperor; and the
traditional French grenadier in this
account escaped with it at the death
of that conqueror. This, however, is
evidently only an echo or a tradition
of the authentic story of Achmet Shah
and the Koh-i-noor, and the history
as given above would seem to be the
most authentic. The English jewel-
lers call the diamond the "Effing-
ham." The word is probably a
traditional corruption of the name
Seringham.
This stone weighs 194J carats (the
Koh-i-Noor as it came from India
weighed 186^^. It exhibits a flaw in
the direction probably of a cleavage
plane in its interior, a little way from
one of its edges, and a slight feather
or black stain in another part of its
internal substance. In other respects
it is a stone of the greatest beauty, and
is the largest, as the Pitt diamond, of
France, is the most beautifui, of all
the Crown diamonds of Europe.
The Imperial Crown of all the Rus-
sias is, as might be expected, adorned
with noble jewels. In outline resem-
bling somewhat the dome -formed
patriarchal mitre, it carries on its
summit a cross, formed of five beau-
tiful diamonds, and supported by a
very large uncut but polished spinel
ruby. Eleven great diamonds in a
foliated arch rising from the front and
back of the crown support this ruby
and its cross, and on either side of
this central arch a hoop of 38 vast
and perfect pearls imparts to the
Imperial diadem the mitre-like aspect,
which may be held to typify the
saltation of the Sovereign into the
►here of the ancient superseded patri-
archate. The domed spaces on either
side of these arches of pearls are filled
with leaf-work and ornaments in silver
covered with diamonds, and underlaM
by purple velvet. The band on which
the crown is supported, and which
surrounds the brows of the Emperor,
carries 28 great diamonds. The orb is
surmounted by a large sapphire, of a
rich but slightly greenish blue colour,
with a large diamond of the finest
water, and of elongated form.
The coronet of the Empress is
perhaps the most beautiful mass of
diamonds ever brought together into
a single ornament. Four of the largest
of these stones are of perfect beauty,
and beside these are 16 or 18 similar
to them, but of somewhat smaller
dimensions ; there are 70 or 80 other
diamonds of no less exquisite water,
and the whole are surrounded and set
with a great number of stones, fit in
point of quality to be associated with
them.
Besides these costly emblems of
royalty there are several other speci-
mens of jewellery worthy to bear them
company. One of these is a diamond
necklace, each stone of it worth an
argosy, composed of 22 single vast
diamonds, from which 15 huge pendent
stones are supported.
The plume of Suvoroff, an aigrette
composed entirely of diamonds, was
one of those gifts which the wealthy
but weaker neighbour makes to the
man of strength. It was presented by
the Sultan of Turkey to the conquering
Russian general.
Another of these memorials of the
respect entertained for Russia by her
Mohammedan neighbours is the un-
mounted but beautiful diamond pre-
sented by the younger son of Abbas
Mirza to the Emperor of Russia on
the occasion of his visiting the Im-
perial court. It is named "the Shah."
It is a long crystal of diamond weigh-
ing 36 carats, and but very HUle
altered by cutting from its original
form. It has, moreover, Persian
characters engraved on it, and a small
groove cut round its end to give
attachment probably to the mounting
that once may have supported it
Bttssia.
Bouie 1. — SL Petershurg : The Hermitage.
85
Among ihe many other curiosities
preserved as crown jewels are several
strings of truly Imperial pearls, a fine
spinel ruby, and an order of St. An-
drew, with five pink diamonds and
two large Siberian beryls or aqua-
marines, one of the greenish, and one
of the more blue tint, mounted in
diamonds.
JRoom in which NicJiolas I. died. — ^A
melancholy interest attaches to this
room, which will be shown last to the
visitor. On a narrow iron camp bed-
stead, in the smallest and plainest
apartment of the vast Palace, the
Emperor Nicholas expired on the 2nd
March, 1855. He was suffering &om
influenza, and had just heard of the
unsuccessful attack upon Eupatoria,
and his stem, proud spirit refused to
submit to any further earthly ills.
His gray military cloak lies folded on
the hard bed. His sword and helmet
are where he left them. On the table
* is the report of the Quartermaster-
General on the strength of the House-
hold troops, delivered to the Emperor
on the morning of the day he died.
The simplicity around is that of the
barrack-room. The elegance of art
and the luxury of civilization are alike
absent. The appurtenances of the
toilet, still in their place, are few and
simple. A peculiarity of habit will
be observed in the pocket-handker-
chie&, which lie on every available
article of furniture. A Grenadier of
the Golden Guard of the Palace is
always on duty over these relics of the
*' never-to-be-forgotten Tsar."
4. The Hermitage* — This gallery
and museum was founded by Catherine
the Great, originally in a small
pavilion attached to the Winter Pa-
* Admission gratis. The Hermitage is closed
the whole of July and August (old style) as
well as on all great holydays, but at any other
time is open daily, except on Fridays, between
February and July from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., and
from September to February between 10 a.m.
and 3 p.m. But even on Fridays, or during the
months of July and August, exceptions to the
rule will be made by the Director in favour of
the traveller.
lace, and built by Vallin de la Motte,
a French architect, in 1765. The
Pavilion was intended by the empress
as a refuge from the cares and duties
of government, and hence was called
the Hermitage. Her leisure moments
and her evenings were spent there in
conversation with philosophers, men
of letters, and artists. Ten years later
Catherine caused the second part of
the Hermitage to be built by Velten,
for the reception of pictures. It was
imited to the Pavilion by an arch in
the form of a bridge. The Theatre of
the Hermitage was added in 1780,
and joined to the other parts of the
building by an arch thrown over a
small canal at a point where the Mo'ika
rises in the Neva. But the Hermitage
as it at present stands was entirely
reconstructed by Leo von Klenze, of
Munich, between 1840 and 1850. The
architect selected the Greek style in
preference to that of the Renaissance,
which would have been more in keep-
ing with the buildings in the imme-
diate vicinity ; but for elegance, purity
of architectural forms, and for the
beauty as well as costliness of the
materials employed, this museum has
scarcely any equal in Europe. It
forms a parallelogram 515 ft. by
375, with two large courts, and is
approached by a noble vestibule, sup-
ported by ten figures, of a hard grey
granite, measuring 22 ft. with their
pedestals. Statues of celebrated
painters, sculptors, and other artists,
ancient and modem, fill numerous
niches in the walls, to which an ex-
cellent appearance of stone has been
given. The roof of the hall is sup-
ported by 16 columns, monoliths of
the finest granite from Finland, ter-
minating in capitals of Carrara marble.
The stairs, in three flights, are of
marble, but the walls on eiiiier side
are only scagliola. A gallery runs
round the top of the staircase, adorned
with twenty monoliths of grey granite.
In this stand 16 marble ste.tues : Cain
and Abel, by Dupr^; a Bacchante, by
Bienaime; and others. Two magni-
ficent stands for candelabra of tho
finest violet jasper from Siberia stand
at the dooffe^Eteachendof the gallery.
86 Boute 1. — SL Feteishurg : The Hermitage; Pictures. Sect. I.
It is advisable to begin with the
picture galleries on the first floor,
leaving the museums below for a sub-
sequent visit.
First Floor.
Picture Galleries. — The Hermitage
Gallery is chiefly composed of three
celebrated collections. — 1. That of Mr.
Crozat, Baron de Thiers. 2. TheWal-
pole Collection, purchased in 1779 for
35,0002. The best pictures* in the
gallery are from Houghton Hall ; viz.,
89 Italian, 75 German, 7 Spanish, and
5 English. 3. Eleven pictures from
the Choiseul Gallery, purchased for
107,904 livres. Many other additions
have subsequently been made. Thirty-
eight pictures of the Malmaison
Collection, formed by the Empress
Josephine, were bought in 1814 for
940,000 francs, many of them having
belonged to the Landgraves of Hesse
and Cassel, spoliated by the French in
1806. The Spanish Gallery of Mr.
W. G. Coesvelt, banker at Amsterdam,
was acquired in 1814 for 87002. ; and
Dr. Orichton, an English resident at
St. Petersburg, afterwards knighted,
sold to this gallery seven of the pictures
in his collection. On the death of the
Queen Hortense of Holland, thirty of
the best pictures of the collection passed
over to the Hermitage for the sum of
180,OOOf francs. The Barbarigo Col-
lection was purchased by the Emperor
Nicholas in 1850, as well as some fine
pictures from the celebrated gallery of
the late King William II. of Holland.
From the Soult Collection the Her-
mitage possesses a Sebastian del Piom-
bo (No. 17), a Zurbaran (349), and a
MuriUo (373). The most recent ad-
ditions are the fresco pictures pur-
chased by Mr. Guedeonoff in 1861, at
the same time as part of the Campana
Museum.
The Hermitage Gallery at present
contains 1635 pictures, selected from
' * The letter W. will denote these whenever
iccur In the observations that follow.
amongst more than 4000 specimens,
the remainder being distributed in the
several palaces. The Italian school is
represented in the gallery by 331 pic-
tures, the Spanish by 11 5, the Flemish,
Dutch, and German by 944, the Eng-
lish by 8, the French by 172, while
the specimens of native art are 65 in
niunber. It is more especially rich in
the Spanish and Flemish Collections,
having no less than 20 Murillos and
6 Velasquez, 60 Rubens, 34 Van
Dycks, 40 Teniers, 10 Van der Heists,
41 Rembrandts, 50 Wouwermans, 9
Potters, 40 Jacob Ruysdaels, and an
equal number of Snyders. This is,
moreover, the only gallery on the
Continent that contains a collection of
English pictures.
The Hermitage Collection was care-
fully examined and brought into its
present perfect order in 1861 and 1862
by the learned and celebrated critic
Dr. Waagen, of Berlin, whose work,
' Die Gemaldesammlung in der Kaiser- '
lichen Ermitage zu St. Petersburg *
(Munich, 1864), contains most valu-
able information respecting the pic-
tures of the Hermitage.
The rooms in which the pictures are
placed are described in the order in
which they should be visited.*
The Gallery of Historical Painting
at the top of the staircase need not
arrest much attention. The frescoes
on- the walls represent the progress of
Grecian art. There are eight good
specimens of modern sculpture by
Vitali, Gothe, Houdon (Madame Du
Barri as Diana), Bienaime, and others.
The vases and tables of porphyry and
malachite are as it were an introduc-
tion to the magnificent specimens in-
side.
Room II. — (The numbers are marked
over the inner doors in Roman nu-
merals : vide plan.) Larger pictures
of ItaMan Sdtool. (Beginning opposite
the door leading from the staircase.)
* The ' Catalogue de la Galerie des Tableaux/
by Baron de Koehne, may be had of the porter,
and very good photographs of the best pictures
Enssia. Baide 1. — St. Peterahurg : The Hermitage ; Pictures, 87
No. 69. Holy Yirgin, by Francia.* 73,
St Sebastian, by Luini. 145, Dead
' Christ attended by Angels, one of the
few pictures by Paul Veronese painted
with any sacred feeling. 18, Descent
from the Cross, a rare picture of great
value by Sebastian del Piombo, pur-
chased for 29,000 florins, from collec-
tion of late King of Holland. 59,
Adoration of the Shepherds, by Garo-
falo. 61, Christ carrying his Cross,
by same artist, life-size figures,
witii very fine and characteristic
heads. 89, Portrait of an Artist, by
Dcmenico. 135, Perseus and Andro-
mfida, a very fine Tintoretto; the
figure of Andromeda for colour and
bMLuty of form is equal to the finest
effi)rt of Titian. 121, Jupiter and lo,
by Schiavone, remarkable for its
landscape bcuskg^round. 133, the Ee-
Fnrrection, by ^Kntoretto ; original de-
sdgn, in small proportions, of the
enormoas picture at Venice, and illus-
tratiTe of his later decorative style.
181, David with the head of Goliath,
by Guido Reni, with dark shadows in
style of Caravaggio. Above it, 166,
Christ being anointed for the Sepul-
chre, a fine specimen of Lodovico
Caracci (W.). 187, Dispute of the
Doctors, a capital picture by Guido
Eeni, of which the engraving by
Sharp is so well known fW,). 180,
Cupid, by Domenichino. 184, Repose
in Egypt, and 185, Saint Francis, are
beautiful works of the same period by
Guido : the expression of trvLai and
repose, the harmony, clearness, and
warmth of the colour, render 184 one
'•{ the most attractive of that artist's
jrtctures. 191, the Virgin at School,
slso by Guido, is much admired
for the grace and childlike inno-
rience of the group engaged in needle-
wf»rk. There are 11 pictures by Sal-
Tator Bosa in this room, 5 of which,
220 to 223 and 225, are from the
• It will eaOce in inost cases to mention the
namtiei' of the picture and the x>ainter to whom
ve desire to attract attention. CrlticiBm may
■j« oofukSered ont of place in a handbook ; the
I ;«;AveUer will form his own Judgment of these
•.oiia of art, but at the same time we shall
•"j^tuvoar to point oat the most remarkable
^.tunw. with the addition of any Information
■' -■• BMj make them interesting to EngUbhmen.
Wal. Coll. No. 220, the Prodigal
Son, was one of the treasures of
that gallery. 215, Ecce Homo, by
Caravaggio, painted in a colder tone
than his Young Man singing and
playing the Guitar (217), which is
more transparent in the shades than
usual with that master. 236, Portrait
of an Actor, by Domenico Feti. 319,
Doge of Venice marrying the Adriatic,
by Canaletto. 318 (pendant to 319)
represents the Eeception at Venice of
Count Gergi, Ambassador of Louis
XV.» a magnificent and most interest-
ing work by that master. 307, Por-
trait of Pope Clement IX. by Carlo
Maratta (W.). 317 (above), the Feast
of Cleopatra, who is seen dissolving
the Pearl, by Tiepolo, one of the best
and largest pictures of that artist.
255, St. Cecilia, by Carlo Dolci, in the
style of the famous picture in the
Dresden Gallery, but superior to it
in the pleasing drawing of the head ;
and 254, St. Catherine, also by Carlo
Dolci ; heads very well drawn.
The malachite tables and vases are
very handsome. The 4 candelabra are
of violet jasper.
Eoom UL—Flemuh School The
collections of this School begin appro-
priately with rich and numerous speci-
mens of Rubens and Van Dyck, of
which many of the best come from the
Walpole Collection.
Beginning on the rt. hand: 543,
Mary Magdalene washing the Saviour's
feet, is the principal picture, by
Rubens, in the Hermitage (W.) ; there
is a copy of it by Jordaens in the next
room. 535, the Expulsion of Hagar,
a perfect gem, by Rubens ; a sketch
of this same picture is in the Gros-
venor Gallery. 626 is a portrait that
will interest every Englishman ; it is
that of Inigo Jones, by Van Dyck
(W.). 616, Portrait of Philip Lord
Wharton at the age of 19, by Van
Dyck (W.). 612, Archbishop Laud,
by the same artist (W.). 633 and 634
are portraits of English ladies by the
same great master. 627, Portrait of
the painter Snyders and his Wife. On
the same wall is, 576, Portrait of
Helen Fourment, Rubens' second wife.
88
Boute 1. — St. Peteriburg : The Hermitage.
Sect. I,
PLAN OF THE PICTURE GALLERIES AT THE HERMITAGE.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
EuBsia. Boute 1. — St. Petersburg : The Hermitage; Pictures, 89
by her famous husband. This most
graceful full-length figure is fre-
> quently copied; tiie same head will
► be found in the picture called the
Chapeau de Faille in Sir Kobert
Peel's collection (W.)- Very close to
it on the rt. is, 609, King Charles I.,
signed "p. Sr. Ant. Vandike;** fof
this picture Yan Dyck received 251.
610. Queen Henrietta Maria is the
pendant to it, both being from the
Houghton Collection. 603 is the cele-
brated Vierge aux Perdreaux, by Van
Dyck, so called from the two par-
tridges seen flying away. The beauty
of the group of children is remark-
able (W.) ; 618, above the portrait of
Henrietta Maria are portraits of
the Ladies Elizabeth and Phila-
delphia Wharton, also by Van Dyck
(W.). The grim figure of the Earl
of Danby, painted by the same
master, will be seen in 615 (W.). 617,
Sir Thomas Wharton, by Van Dyck
(W.). 635 is Rubens* Wife and Child,
painted by Van Dyck; compare it
with 575 (near the door on entering),
Rubens* wife at a later period, painted
by Rubens ; the dress and gold chain
are Ihe same in both pictures. 611 is
a pleasing portrait of William II. of
Nassau, ifence of Orange, when a boy.
by Van Dyck (W.). 549, Venus and
Adonis, a repetition by Rubens of the
picture on panel at the Hague. 551.
a Bacchanalian Scene, by the same
artist, is in his most spirited style ; the
satyrs are such as only Rubens could
have imagined (W.). 620, Portrait of
Sir Thomas Chaloner, by Van Dyck
(W.). 632, Portrait of a gentleman,
by Van Dyck, is a fine specimen of his
iw'armest colouring, probably painted
at Genoa. 614 is a sketch by Van
Dyck of the celebrated large picture of
the Pembroke Family at Wilton ; the
Karl of Carnarvon has another sketch
of it 629 is a fine portrait by Van
Dyck.
There are 2 candelabra and 3 tazza
of Tiolet Siberian jasper in this room.
^ Boom I. — Spaniah School, The
"best and most varied collection of
Spanish pictures out of Spain. On the
left-hand wall there are no less than
18 pictures by Murilla Begin with
369, the Holy Family, a perfect little
gem, but obscured by the shadow
which falls from its heavy frame (W.).
375, Celestine and her Daughter in
prison at Seville. 364, Adoration of
the Shepherds ; interesting sketch and
variation of the same subject in the
Gallery at SevUle. 360, Benedic-
tion of Jacob ; Ha pendant, 359, Jacob's
Dream, is perhaps one of the most
picturesque productions of the artist.
372, Angel delivering St. Peter ; from
the Soult Collection. Under it is one
of the most lovely inspirations of this
great artist, the Repose in Egypt
(367). 365, St. Joseph. 379, St. John,
a contemporaneous copy of the cele-
brated picture in the National Gallery
in London. 378, a Peasant Girl, and
377, a young Beggar, are pendUints.
363, Adoration of the Shepherds, a
specimen of the early style of the mas-
ter (W.). 362, the Conception, treated
in the same grand manner as the large
picture at Seville. Leaving the Mu-
rillos for the present, look at 349, St.
Lawrence, a very characteristic speci-
men of Francisco Zurbaran; but a
rarer and more pleasing example of
the master will be seen in 348, repre-
senting the Holy Virgin as a child,
397, a sleeping Child, is by Antolinez.
in the clear tender tones of Murillo.
371, the Assimiption by Murillo (W.).
In this beautiful picture the Virgin
has the same youthful form as in the
celebrated picture of the Sala Isabella
at Madrid, to which for grace and
purity of expression it yields in no-
thing, while the action of floating in
mid-air, and the eifect of immense
depth beneath the buoyant clouds on
which the lovely group of children aie
borne upwards with the Virgin, were
never better rendered. 373, Appari-
tion of the Infant Jesus to St. Francis
of Padua, must conclude our mention
of the pictures by Murillo. The best
of Velasquez's, out of the 6, are 419
and 420, Portraits of Philip IV. of
Spain, and 421 and 422, those of his
Minister, d*OUvares. The full-length
portraits came here from the Hague.
418, Pope Innocent X., is a spirited
portrait, also by Velasquez, from the
90 Boute 1. — St. Fetershirg : The Hermitage; Pictures, Sect. I.
Walp. CoU. 331. Death of St. Sebas-
tain, by Blbeira.
The stands for candelabra of large
masses of rose-coloured porphyry or
rhodonite, and vases, tazza, and tables
of lapis lazuli in this room, are re-
markably handsome.
BapkaePs Frescoes. — The nine fres-
coes in this room (which may be entered
from the gem-room) were until 1856 on
the walls of the ground-floor of the
Villa Mais (Villa Spada) on Mount
Palatine, at Rome. They were pur-
chased with the Campana Museum in
1861. Mr. Gue'deonoff, tlie talented
purchaser of that collection for the
Russian Government, considers these
fine paintings to have been executed
by Raphael and his pupils between
the years 1512 and 1515. The great
master probably made the sketches
and only superintended the painting.
Professor Waagen Kjonsiders that
Nos. 47, 48, 49, 51, and 53 are by the
hand of Giulio Romano. The Abduc-
tion of Helen (No. 55) is a celebrated
composition, frequently repeated on
majolica, as seen in the Campana col-
lection in the Louvre, in the Bernal
collection at the British Museum, and
in Mr. Abingdon's collection. Waagen
says it must have been painted by one
of Raphael's best scholars, for it was a
favourite subject with the great mas-
ter, as evident from the drawings at
Chats worth and Oxford. It was de-
tached from the wall of Raphael's
villa near the Porta Pinciana.
Room IV. — 1, Holy Virgin, by Ve-
rocchio, marks the early epoch of the
Italian School, as also does 2, another
Holy Virgin, by Roselli. No. 8, Infant
Jesus, by Lo Spagna. The most flou-
rishing period of Italian painting is
represented in the following : No. 24,
Holy Family, a very fine picture by
Andrea del Sarto, superior to the du-
plicate in the National Gallery. No.
17, Christ carrying his Cross, by Se-
bastian del Piombo, on slate; one of
the finest pictures from the Soult col-
lection. No. 19, Portrait of Cardinal
Me, by the same artist. The Floren-
e School is well supported by No.
14, the Holy Family, by Leonardo da
Vinci; this bears a striking resem-
blance to Foster's well-known " Vierge
au bas-relief." But the oldest and
finest picture by this master has just
been purchased of the Duke di Litta
of Milan :— 14a, ** The Holy Virgin
suckling the Infant Jesus " (on a stand
near the window). No. 15, Portrait of
a lady, by the same painter (W.). No.
22, Nativity of Jesus, by Granacci;
one of his best works.
One of the most remarkable objects
in this room is an unfinished sketch of
a small crouching figure in marble by
M. Angelo, called the Tour de Force,
evidently rough hewn from the stone,
without model or preparation. That a
figure of this size could be produced
from a small block of marble, not
larger than would be required for
a full-sized bust, is extraordinary
enough ; but the position seems pur-
posely to have been chosen by that
great genius, in sport as it were with
the greatest difficulties; while at the
same time it may have served to dis-
play his knowledge of the Toi-so of tlie
Vatican, or his idea of the original
position of that celebrated fragment.
It is also said to be the result of a
wager.
Room V. is attractive on account of
its Raphaels. On a stand near the
window will be seen a beautiful little
picture (39), by that great master, re-
presenting St. George and the Dragon :
it was painted in 1506 by order of the
Duke d'Urbino, who wished to present
it to Henry VII. of England, in return
for the Order of the Garter. It was
first in the Pembroke Gallery, then in
that of Charles I., and was purcliased
by the Russian Government with the
Crozat Collection. It long served as
an imago in the Hall of St. George, at
the Winter Palace. No. 37, Holy Vir-
gin, painted in Raphael's Florentine
style, and known as the " Ste. Famille
au St. Joseph imberbe," p. in 1507.
No. 38 is the celebrated Virgin de la
Maison d'Albe. No. 40, a remarkable
portmit by Raphael, incorrectly called
that of Sannazaro. No. 74 is the por-
trait by Luini variously termed " the
Eussia. Boute 1, — St. Petersburg : The Hermitage ; Pictures. 91
Columbine," « Flora/* and " Vanity,"
and well known to the lovers of art :
) from the Hague, where it passed as a
» Leonardo da Vinci. No. 82 is a sm^
sketch for the ceiling of the cathedral
at Parma, by Correggio. Another
picture by Correggio will be found
in No. 82a, " Marsyas and Apollo," by
Correggio, one of the four pictures of
the Litte, collection recently purchased.
Koom VI.— 112, Judith, by Moretto
da Brescia, of whom it is one of the
finest specimens. 113, Faith, by the
same artist. 101, Portrait of Pope
Paul III., by Titian.
Room VII. contains the celebrated
Titians, from the Barbarigo collection :
—98, Mary Magdalen. 99, Toilet of
Venus. 100, Danae, from the Crozat
collection. There are also some fine
sketches (Nos. 142, 149, and 150) by
P. Veronese.
Boom VIII. 174, Christ in the
Garden of Olives, by Oaracci. 177, A
young girl sleeping, by the same ; very
carefully painted, and evidently from
nature. 176, Portrait of Annibale
Caracci, by the artist himself, on a
panel which had been destined for
another subject. Through the trans-
parent dark colour of the background
may be seen the outlines of a life-
sized head. 192, Beatrice Cenci, re-
petition after Guide. 224, Portrait of
a poet, by S. Bosa. 218, Portrait by
Oarayaggio. 223, three soldiers play-
ing at dice, very characteristic of S.
Bosa. 264, Betrothal of St. Catherine,
by Procaccini, suggestive of Etty.
The tazzas near the window are of
syenite and aventurine ; the one in the
centre of the room is of jasper.
Room IX. 289, Pretty head of a
boy, by Luti (W.) ; resembles a draw-
ing in pastel, for which this artist is
chiefly known, 257, Holy Virgin, by
SasBoferrato. 260a, Head of the Ma-
I donna, likewise by Sassoferrato. 309,
" St. Sebastian, by Balestra. There
are several pictures by C. Maratta and
Schidone in this room. The small
marble statue of a Cupid, with an arch
look, is by Falconet, whose masterpiece
is the equestrian statue of Peter the
Great in the Isaac's Square.
Boom X. is the last of the Italian
School, and is called the Cabinet of
Luca Giordano, the painter of the large
picture, 293, Bacchus asleep (W.), and
of 294, the Judgment of Paris (W.).
229 and 230 are marine pieces, by
Salvator Bosa. 820, the Bialto, by
Belloti, is quite worthy of his cousin,
Canaletto.
Boom XI. Early German and
Dutch Schods.— The portrait of Sir
Thomas Gresham, the founder of the
Boyal Exchange, by Sir Antony More
(480), will be of interest to the English
visitor ; it is, moreover, one of the best
specimens of that painter. 481 is
Lady Gresham, by the same artist
(W.). 444, the Crucifixion and Last
Judgment, by Christophsen. 445, St
Luke, a very good, though solitary,
specimen of Memling. 449, Corona-
tion of the Holy Virgin, by Quentin
Matsys. 443, the oi3y specimen of
Jan Van Eyck, The Salutation, Waa-
gen says, must have been painted be-
tween 1433 and 1434, for it bears
a greai resemblance to the picture by
the same artist in the National Gal-
lery, and which is known to have
been painted in 1433. 466, a Portrait,
by Holbein. 467, Portrait of Edward
VI. of England, is either a copy or a
repetition of Holbein. It was once in
Charles I.*s collection, and was pur-
chased by Lord Walpole on the death
of that monarch, whose enlightened
judgment and taste for art were so
remarkable, that, if his gallery had
remained the property of the nation,
we should have possessed the finest
museum of pictures in the world.
Nineteen of the best pictures in the
Louvre, 44 of the most valuable in
the Museo at Madrid, three or four in
the Belvedere collection at Vienna,
and the two in the Hermitage, will
give some idea of the treasures we
have lost
Boom XIT. — PotteXprpV'kr^fWoiwer-
mans. Pauf 1^t>1l^>^n055, Watch
92 BmUe 1, — St, Petersburg : The Hermitage; Pictures, Sect. I.
Dog, the perfection of animal por-
traiture ; the brilliancy of the eye, and
the texture of the dog's matted coat,
are admirably rendered; for freedom
of treatment it offers a remarkable con-
trast to the careful finish of 1051, and
the bold large signature on the kennel
shows that tiie artist was not ashamed
of it. 1058, Bull. 1059, a little Boy
looking at a white Horse. 1056, Land-
scape, a beautiful study of trees and
plants, with a charming peep of dis-
tant landscape ; the figures in the sun-
light and those in the shade, equally
good; the latter are fishing, and a
perch can be distinguished in the net.
1051, the Farmyard, considered to be
Potter's masterpiece, signed 1649; a
picture of inestimable beauty and
value, displaying in perfection every
quality for which this great painter
was remarkable. 1052, the Hunter's
Life. This will be found one of the
most amusing pictures in the gallery :
in 12 compartments it represents dif-
ferent sporting subjects, and in 2
others the ultimate revenge of the
animals on the cruelty of* man : 1, St.
Hubert; 2, Coursing; 3, Diana and
ActsBon (painted by C. Poelenburg) ;
4, Chamois-hunter; 5, Ferreting; 6,
Bear-hunt ; 7, Leopard about to spring
into a trap, attracted by his own reflec-
tion in a looking-glass placed within
it ; 8, Catching Monkeys by means of
a dish of gum-water, with which they
glue their eyes in imitation of men
washing ; 9, Wolf-hunting ; 10, Boar-
hunt; 11, Lion-hunt; 12, Bull-baiting.
The upper centre compartment shows
the hunter caught and brought to
judgment before the lion, who presides,
surrounded by his counsellors ; the fox
acting as clerk. The bear performs the
office of head constable, and a wolf on
each side of the huntsman keep him in
safe custody. A bear and a boar are
bringing up two braces of hounds, the
accomplices of man, while the stag
stands proudly waiting to give evi-
dence. The sentence of death is car-
ried out in the lower division, where
the hunter is being roasted over a fire,
and basted by a boar and a goat,
while 2 bears turn the spit. A mon-
key and an elephant are bringing up
faggots; the wolf and the fox mean-
while hanging two of the accomplices.
A monkey on the top of the gallows
a^ts as assistant executioner. The joy
of the animals at their deliverance is
wonderfully portrayed; the goat is
cutting capers, and the wolf roUing on
the ground with laughter and delight.
1053, tiie Hunter's Halt 1054, the
Cows, and 1057, a Landscape. There
are 9 specimens of Paul Potter in the
Hermitage; 1051, 1052, and 1055 are
from the Malmaison Collection.
Teniers. — 699, "Kitchen seized by
Monkeys. 672, the Arquebusiers of
Antwerp. The figures are mostly por-
traits of the period ; Teniers himself is
being admitted member of the corps.
Between these two screens will be
found every description of picture that
Teniers painted — landscapes, cattle,
historical portraits, and even a sea-
piece (710). 669 and 670 are land-
scapes by Teniers the elder. 708 and
709, in circular frames, by the younger
Teniers, are pleasing subjects, charm-
ingly treated. 673, the Guardhouse,
painted 1642 ; 677, the Wedding Ban-
quet; 674, Village Fete, are all by the
same master-hand, as well as the large
picture, 698, Interior of a Kitchen;
the artist appears here as the land-
lord (W.). (679, 688, and 706 are also
from Walp. CoU.).
Wouvermans. — These are too nume-
rous to be particularised. 1031 and
1032 are perfect gems. The pictures
by Wouvermans in the last compart-
ment are equally good. 1017 is one of
the few pictures known of that artist
without a white horse. They are all
well worth exainination.
After inspecting Room XIL the
visitor will do well to relieve the eye
by proceeding to gaze on other objects.
A door in the next room, XIII., opens
on the staircase of the Council of the
Empire. An immense vase of mala-
chite stands at the top of the stairs.
The door to the right leads to the
apartments of the old Hermitage
(French gallery— reached from the
Gem room). The door on the left
opens into a gallery, beyond which is
a small ball-room of white marble,
fitted up in the most exquisite taste.
Russia. Boide 1. — St. Petersburg: The Hermitage; Pictures. 93
This is the original Pavilion built by
Catherine II. Light galleries of gold
I trellis-work, supported by elegant
white columns, run round this beauti-
ful room, which was designed by Mr.
Stakenschneider, court architect. The
style is Renaissance, with an admix-
tare of the Moorish and antique. A
portion of the floor is inlaid with
mosaic. Two marble fountains, after
the model of a celebrated fountain at
Bakhchisarai, in the Crimea, stand at
the further end of the room. The
water, when laid on, falls from one
shell into the other with the most deli-
cious murmur. Glass doors open into
a conservatory of exotic plants. Balls
are given here in winter to a limited
number of guests. The view of the
river from the windows is most charm-
ing. A portrait of Catherine II., by
Lampi, the best ever made, is sus-
(lended in this room, together with
that of the consort of the Emperor
Paul, by Mme. Lebrim.
Boom Xin. Engligh School and
Bembrandfs GaUery. — The first small
compartment is devoted to English
pictures. Conspicuous amongst tiiese
is 1391, the Infant Hercules strangling
the Serpents, painted for the Empress
Catherine II. by Sir Joshua Reynolds.
It is an allegory of Russia vanquish-
ing the difficulties which beset its
youthful state. This picture, finished
two years before his death, was painted
by order of the Empress Cattierine,
whose commission was unlimited both
in subject and in price. The price paid
for it was 1500 guineas. Soon after
the picture arrived at St Petersburg,
Count Woronzow, the Russian ambas-
sador, waited on Sir J. Reynolds to
inform him that the empress had re-
ceived the picture, as well as two sets
of his Discourses, one in English and
one in French, which, at the desire of
H. L M. had been sent with the pic-
ture. This message was accompanied
by a gold snuff-box, with the empress's
portrait encircled with large diamonds.
' The ambassador also left with Sir
Joshua a copy of the following let-
ter : —
" Monsieur le Conite Woronzow— I
have read, and I 'may say with the
greatest avidity, the Discourses pro-
nounced at the Royal Academy of Lon-
don by Sir Joshua Reynolds, which that
illustrious artist sent me with his largo
picture; in both productions a most
elevated genius may easily be traced.
I recommend you to give my thanks to
Sir Joshua, and to remit to him the
box I send as a testimony of the great
satisfaction the perusal of his Dis-
courses has given me, and which I
look upon as perhaps the best work
that ever was written on tlie subject
My portrait, which is on the cover of
the box, is of a composition made at
my Hermitage, where they are now
at work about impressions on the
stones found there.
" I expect you will inform me of the
large picture of the subject of which
I have already spoken to you in an-
another letter. Adieu— I wish you
well. (Signed) Catherine. St Peters-
burg, March 5, 1790."
The large picture here referred to
may be No. 1392, the Continence of
Scipio, which was probably sent to St
Petersburg after his death, as it is still
in an unfinished state. This may be
seen in the arms of Scipio and in tlie
hands of another figure, which show in
an interesting manner Sir Joshua's
mode of painting ; the shadows being
laid on in a green tene, preparatory to
the warm glazing with which he so suc-
cessfully imitated the glowing tones of
the Venetian School. 1393, Dido and
iEneas, in a landscape equal to one of
Wilson's finest, by Thomas Jones
(1730-1790). 1390, Cupid unloosing
the Girdle of Venus. This picture,
painted for Prince Potemkin for 100
guineas, is the portrait of a pretty
Englishwoman, whose obliquity of
vision is artfully concealed by the
position of her hand. There are two
repetitions of this picture in England.
1389 is an interesting portrait of the
sculptor Grinling Gibbons, by Sir
Godfrey Kneller, who also painted
1388, a likeness of Locke ; both from
the Walpole Collection. 1387, Por-
trait of Abraham Van der Dort, by
Dobson (W.) ; and 1386, Oliver Orom-
weU, by Robert Walker (1600-1658).
94 Boute 1. — St Petersburg : The Hermitage; Pictures, Sect. I.
The pictures arranged on the re-
maining screens in Koom XIII. now
claim attention: they are chiefly by
Rembrandt. We particularise some of
the finest, but all are worthy of atten-
tion. Nowhere can this great master
be studied with so much advantage,
since here are found specimens of
every period and subject of his art.
828 and 827, two portraits side by
side, show his earliest and his latest
style, the former bearing the date 1634,
and the latter 1666. 806, 825, 823,
and 821 are a series of equally charac-
teristic heads. 803, the " Benedicite,"
or Grace, a small cabinet picture of
great simplicity, and full of reveren-
tial feeling. 802, Danae : though un-
fortunate in his model, Rembrandt has
produced in this unique picture a chef-
d'oeuvre of execution. 771 and 772
are excellent specimens of Franz Hals.
The following are all by Rembrandt :
— 808, Lieven van Copenol, the cele-
brated calligraphist, a highly-finished
portrait of the same period as that of
the "Lesson of Anatomy" at the
Hague ; 818, one of his noblest por-
traits, very badly hung ; its vis-k-vis,
809, which suffers from the same cause,
is a fine classical head, called indif-
ferently Joan of Arc or Minerva ; 805,
an old woman, an admirable portrait
in his freest style — the hands, exe-
cuted with a freedom which borders
on coarseness, appear highly finished
when viewed at a proper distance;
797, Return of the Prodigal. Son,
though painted in a coarse decorative
manner, tells its story with much
pathos ; beneath it is a bold landscape,
830, and, on the opposite screen, a
marine piece, 831, very warm and
transparent, probably left uncompleted
by Rembrandt, for the foreground
seems, to be finished by an inferior
hand; 817, a beautifully-coloured
small female head; 798, the parable
of the Lord of the Vineyard, a remark-
able sketch in brown glaze, the piin-
cipal figure a highly-finished minia-
ture ; 816, head of an old man in pro-
file, a masterpiece of free handling —
observe the effect produced by the use
'f the sharpened stick of the brush in
e treatment of the beard ; 826, Child
at a Window — this picturesque genre
portrait is a fine study of chiaroscuro ;
796, the Holy Family, was valued by
Smith at 2000 guineas ; 800, Descent
from the Cross by Night, an admirable
composition, replete with sentiment
and mystery; 807, Rembrandt's Mo-
ther, a highly-finished cabinet picture ;
799, Peter denying Christ, another
striking candle-light effect; 811, a
most characteristic portrait in this
master's best style — it was long, but
erroneously, supposed to be that of
Stephen Batory, or John III., Sobieski,
of Poland; the pentimenti or alter-
ations in the position of the baton
held in his hand, are evidence of tlie
care bestowed on this picture; 810
passes for the likeness of old Thomas
Parr — ^it is in his latest style, but
Rembrandt, instead of showing symp-
toms of weakness, appears to have
become more daring with age, to judge
from the impaste and the masterly
treatment of this fine portrait — it
hangs unfortunately too much in the
dark to be seen with advantage (an-
other portrait of Thomas Parr, also by
Rembrandt, may be seen in Prince
Lobanoff's collection). 792, Abra-
liam's Sacrifice, one of Rembrandt's
earliest, signed and dated 1635 (W.) :
there is a copy of this picture by
Eckout in a private collection at Bnis-
sqIs. The Hermitage Gallery is also
very rich in pictures by Ferdinand
Bol : see the excellent portraits by this
artist under Nos. 853. 854 (W.), 849,
848, 856, 851, and 847.
Room XIV. — The principal objects
of attraction in this room are six
sketches by Rubens for the decoration
of the triumphal arches raised at
Antwerp in 1635 to greet the solemn
entrance of the Lifant Cardinal Fer-
dinand, brother of Philip IV. of Spain
(Nos. 561 to 566). The paintings
were executed by Rubens* pupils,
after these sketches. The allegorical
representation of Peace and War eon-
tending at the Temple of Janus (566)
is ingenious and masterly (W.). Nos.
572 and 573 are of interest to English-
men, being sketches by Rubens for
the ceiling of the Palace at Whitehall,
Eufisia. Bouie 1. — SL Fet^shurg ; The Hermitage; Pictures. 95
EaufmanD, represent episodes from
Sterne's * Sentimental Journey.*
made by order of Charles L; the
^ former represents James I. seated on
his throne, with Pallas, Juno, and
Venus accompanied by Cupid, before
him; the Genius of Peace is below,
burning armour. This sketch once
belonged to Sir Godfrey Eneller, but
was purchased of Crozat for the Her-
mitage. No. 573 is the Apotheosis of
James L, formerly in the Walpole Coll.
No. 546, Descent from the Cross, by
the same great master, is a repetition
of his famous picture at Antwerp.
There is a very good copy of it over
the altar of the English church at St
Petersburg. 594 and 595 (opposite to
each other) are excellent specimens of
Eubens's landscape-painting, the for-
mer conveying well the effect of moon-
light (W.) ; the latter, *• the Rainbow,"
is in the great master's best style.
574 is another admirable sketch by
Rubens in grisaiUe, with the exception
of the portrait — it is signed near the
left side of the head. 537, the Adora-
tion of the Magi, on paper, has passed
for a sketch by Rubens, but Prof.
Waagen is inclined to consider it a
copy of a picture of the same subject.
592, a Lioness between two Lions, is
a portrait taken by Rubens at the
Zoological Gardens at Antwerp —
treated in the same masterly manner
as the celebrated picture of Daniel in
the Lions' Den, now at Hamilton
Palace (W.). 605, Christ on the
Cross, most spirited sketch by Van
Dyck; and 658 is the copy, by Jor-
daens, of 543, abeady mentioned. 757,
Repose of the Holy Family, by Poe-
lenburg, is a very unusual subject for
that artist.
Two candelabra of rhodonite, and a
large tazza of violet jasper, will be
noticed in this room.
Room XV. — This small room is de-
voted to a portion of the German school
in its decadence. 1289, an Orgie, and
1290, a Concert, are by Platzer. 1303
is a portrait of Mengs by the artist
himself. 1299, the Descent of the Holy
Ghost, is an exquisite specimen of
Mengs ; imusually fine in colour and
expression. The Denners are 1284 to
1288. 1304 and 1305, by Angelique
Room XVI.— On the eight screens
in this room are numerous specimens
of the Dutch school in its most flou-
rishing period. 777, Presentation of
the Bride, a masterpiece by Van der
Heist, to the left on entering, at once
strikes the eye; very much restored,
especially the head and dress of the
bride (from King of Holland's Collec-
tion). 778 and 779 are fine specimens
of that artist's portrait-painting, rarely
seen out of Holland. 900, Game of
Trictrac, by Jan Steen, who is seen in
the picture playing with a lady ; the
specimens of this artist are numerous,
affording an excellent opportunity of
studying his style. 874, the Musi-
cian, by Terburg; the white satin
dress of the lady is beautifully painted.
903, the Alchymist, is a splendid spe-
cimen of Gerard Dow. 878 is one of
the best pictures by Metzu. 962, a
Winter Landscape, by Ostade, —
signed ; it is painted in his latest and
best s^le.. 1246 and 1247 are the
two well-known pictures, by W. van
Mieris. 1136, a Morass in the middle
of a Forest, is an excellent Ruysdael.
1143 (opposite) is another specimen of
that master. 1211 (on stand VII.), a
Street at Amsterdam, is one of Jan
van der Heyden's best pictures; the
figures were painted by A. van der
Velde. The specimens of this artist
are numerous, and extremely good and
valuable. 1 148, View near Groeningen,
by Jacob Ruysdael — full of sunlight.
1145 is a beautiful and cleai* specimen
of the same artist. 1117, one of the
best efforts of Van der Neer — a View
at Sunset. 1162, Marine View by
Pynacker — one of his best. 1102, a
View of the Meuse, by Cuyp. 1150,
Study, by C. Decker ; a beautiful spe-
cimen of this master, whose pictures
are rare. 895, a large picture by Jan
Steen, Esther before Assuerus ; consi-
dered by Waagen the best of that
artisf s serious pictures. 979 is a good
specimen of Van der Poel. 1081, a
graceful Landscape, by Berchem, in a
warm golden tone. 1262, a Landscape,
in grisaille^ by Begeya. 1076 and
96 HouU 1. — St. Peter^urg : The Bermitage ; Pidures, Sect. 1.
1077 (opposite) are two more excellent
Landscapes, by Berchem. 1 1 35, Mouth
of the Scheldt, by Everdingen ; very
bold: and picturesque. On a stand is
another small picture by Van der
Heyden (1206) ; a little harsh in out-
line and cold in tone, but the figures
beautifully painted by A. van der
Velde; it represents a street at Co-
logne.
Room XVII. is devoted to pictures
of fruit and game by Snyders, Vos,
Weenix, Verendael, and others. 1324,
Concert of Birds, by Snyders, is cu-
rious. (Petef the Greafs Gallery is
reached from here. There is a studio
for painting on porcelain above this
room, and a small collection of old
majolica, not generally open to the
public.)
Room XVIII. contains numerous
paintings of fish, fruit, and game on
the largest canvas, by Snyders, Vos,
and others. 1161, Stag-hunt, is an
excellent specimen of Hackert; and
1323 (on a stand) is an amusing study
of cats* heads by Snyders.
There is a marble statue by Canova
in this room, well known from popular
reproductions.
Room XIX. — This room, like the
next, is set apart for the Bussian
Schoolj founded in 1759 by Lossenko.
1626, Sunrise on the Black Sea ; and
on the other side of the door an extra-
ordinary picture, " the Deluge," by
Aivazofsky, a marine painter. 1622,
a View of Odessa, by the same artist.
1629, View of Wladi-Kavkas, a small
town in the Caucasus, by Willewald.
1630, The Kemmse or Fair at
Amsterdam by moonlight, by Bogo-
luboff ; the double effect of the moon-
light, and that of the variegated
iMups, is beautifully rendered. 1568,
the capture of Kazan by John the
Terrible in 1552 ; the Tsar of Kazan
is kneeling in submission to John
IV. 1569, the election of Michael
Romanoff to the throne of Russia ; the
boyar Sheremetieff is bearing the
crown, the sceptre, and a gold cross ;
ihe mother of Michael Romanoff and
several high ecclesiastics stand near
him. Both these historical pictures
are by Ugrumoff, a pupil of Lossenko.
Near 1568 will be seen one of Avai-
zowski's most extraordinary efforts,
"the Creation of the World."
A marble statue of Paris by Canova
stands in this room.
Room XX. — Russian School conti-
nued. — 1594, a Nymph going to bathe,
by Neff, is an admii*able specimen of
flesh - painting. 1593, by Ivanoft*,
Christ appearing to Mary Magdalene ;
the figure of Sie Magdalene is not
deficient in pathos, while that of
Christ is executed with the cold for-
mality of the pseudo-classic school.
1590 is an immense picture by Bixini
of the Brazen Serpent: a startling
academical picture. The most striking
picture in this room is 1580, the Last
Day of Pompeii, by Briilow; it is
considered to be the most important
work of the Russian School. 1595,
two Nymphs bathing; one of the
figures in this picture is from the same
model as 1594$ which it resembles in
mode of treatment. There are more
copies taken of these two pictures by
Neff than of any other in the Hermit-
age.
Two candelabra and a tazza of very
fine jasper stand in the centre of the
room.
Rooms XXI. and XXH.—Numimna'-
Uc Collection, — This consists of more
than 200,000 specimens, and was com-
menced by Catherine II. The original
collection has been increased by pur-
chases and gifts, principally firom
Baron de Chaudoir, M. Reichel, Count
Perofsky, and M. de Beule.
The coinage of Russia is shown in
more than 7000 specimens, of whicli
the most precious are 4 gold coins of
St Wladimir, 10th centy. (in Case 1).
On a small stand will be found a rich
collection of "Poltinas" or half-
pounds of silver, current throughout
Russia from the reign of Wladimir the
Great to the 15th centy., and of
" roubles," or quarters of a pound of
silver, introduced about the 15th centy.
Those without any stamp are the most
Eussia. Bouteh — St, PeterSmrg : The Hermitage ; Pictures. 97
ancient Some Poltinas of the Golden
Horde of Tartary are under the same
glass. The modem "rouble" takes
its origin from these rude lumps of
metal, the name implying a piece
chopped off. The square copeck and
half-copeck of iron are supposed to have
been used in the payment of miiicrs
in the province of Olonets, near the
White Sea. By some the name " Ko-
peika" (copeck) is assumed to be
derived from the word fcopiV, or lance,
from the eflSgy of St. George and the
Dragon originally stamped on the coin ;
but by others the name is supposed to
be of greater antiquity. The 4-comered
flat rouble of copper cast at Ekaterin-
burg in 1725 will be noticed with
interest in Case 5, as will also the
round rouble of copper cast in 1771.
The coins of countries and provinces
once independent, but now subject to
Russia, are exhibited in a magnificent
series. Thus the coins of Poland
from the 10th centy., and numerous
medals (vide that of Sobieski in Case 4),
form a fine collection in 7 cases. On
a stemd will be seen the medals struck
in Russia since 1702 ; and the visitor
will notice that in the reign of Peter
the Great gold coins bearing the eflBgy
of the sovereign were worn as Orders
of Merit, after the ancient custom of
Byzantium. A case is devoted to a
fine collection of the coins of the Sla-
vonic races, Servian, Bulgarian, &c.
The mints of foreign States are very
richly represented. An English or
American visitor will inspect with in-
terest the valuable collection of English
coins arranged in 3 cases at the lower
part of Room XXII., and consisting of
several hundred specimens of El£el-
(Ired U., Canute, Hardicanute, &c.,
niany of which have been excavated
in Russia. Anglo-Saxon coins have
been found in every part of Russia,
from Oranienbaum (opposite Cron-
stadt) to Chemi^off in the S. They
were largely current in the early
Russian principalities, which then
I supplied Europe with black marten-
skins, and other products of the
chase. The coinage of Jaroslaf, son
of Wladimir the Great, was after an
Anglo-Saxon model, as may be seen
in the numismatic collection at Stock-
holm.
Among the ancient coins is a splen-
did series representing the Greek colo-
nies of Olbia, Chersonesus, Pantica-
psBum, Phanagoria, and many others.
The collection of corns of the kings of
Pontus and Bosporus is particmarly
rich, the specimens ranging between
Leucon and Rhescuporis (the contem-
porary of Constantino the Great), and
ineluding Mithridates VI., Asander,
Cotys, Polemon II., his wife Tryphaena,
and Eupator. As there is unfortu-
nately no printed catalogue of this
collection, it may be as well to give
here a few particulars respecting the
number and character of the coins
from the principal colonies of ancient
Greece : —
1. Olbia (the most important Greek dty N.
of the Eaxine; situated at confluence of
Dnieper and Bug) :— •
Skilurofl, King . . . 4 copper coins.
InLsmeus^ „ ... 1 sUver coin.
Coins of the Emperors . 22 of copper.
Tesseras 41 „
Fishes 34 „
2. Khersonesus (near Sevastopol) :■—•
Silver coins ...... 16 ' ,
Gopper „ ..... 89
3. Panticapcmm (the present Kertch) :—
Gold coins 12
Silver „ 33
Gopper „ .88
4. Phanagoria (on Asiatic coast of Euzine ;
capital in Asia of kings of Boi^nis) :-~
Silver coins 2
Copper „ 20
6. 2Vra« (the present Akennan):—
Copper coin » i
6. Sindi (near Sea of Azof) :—
Silver coins 2 "'j
7. Gorghipia (near the present Taman) :~
bilver coin , i
Copper „ 3
8. Heraclea (on S. shore of Euxlne) : —
Copper coins 2
9. Dioseurias (near the present Poti) :— .
Silver coin (very rare) . . 1
Copper „ 2
10. TAeocZosia (Kaffa) :—
Copper coins 2
11. Cercina:^"
Copper coin 1
(Very rare, heing one of only two known ',
specimens.) r^^]^
12. Of Greek colonies or towns unknown;—
19 pieces.
98 Baute 1. — St Petersburg : The Hermitage ; Pictures. Sect. I.
Among these is a com similar to
that which is mentioned in Harwood's
* Populorum et Urbium selecta Numis-
mata Grseca" (1812), as being of
Tyras, from the monogram on it
There are, however, several pieces at
the Hermitage, with different mono-
grams, but with the same effigy on
one side and a Scythian bow-case on
the other.
The collection representing the
Kings of Pontus includes 16 coins of
two different sovereigns, whose names
are indicated by monograms which
have not been deciphered, but from
which it is apparent that their names
began severally with E and R.
In the galleries above Room XXI.
are more than 15,000 specimens of the
coins of ancient Greece and Rome,
and amongst them more than 40
etatere of Asia Minor. The fine col-
lection of Athenian coins, purchased
from M. De Beule, contfitins more than
400 specimens of Tetradrachmx.
The earliest dated inscription in the
Russian language yet discovered is
preserved in Room XXI. It is called
the Stone of Tmutarakan, whose
Prince, Gleb, caused the distance be-
tween the seat of his sovereignty and
Kertch to be measured over the ice
and recorded on this stone in 1068.
The numismatic collection is not
open to the general public, but an
application to one of the learned cura-
tors will always secure admittance.
CoUecticm of Gems.—Boom XXIII.
(entrance from Room I.) — The collec-
tion of gems is one of the largest in
existence. It has been made up of
various collections, purchased at dif-
ferent times by the sovereigns of Rus-
sia, and conspicuous among which is
the renowned Cabinet of the Duke of
Orleans (Philippe Egalite). The gems
from that collection may be distin-
guished by their rims presenting a
surface of deadened gold. It would
be difficult to criticise in a short notice
so vast an assemblage of engraved
stones and camei, or even to direct
attention to objects in it of especial
interest and beauty, and the more so
as at present the antique gems have
not been separated from the very large
majority of modern and cinquecento
works with which they are mingled,
their arrangement being founded only
on the subjects engraved, irrespective
of the dates of the artists that engraved
them.
In this room is a large clock, re-
markable for the perfection of its
mechanism. A poor widow, to whom
it had fallen in a lottery, sold it for
about 30002. It executes overtures
with the effect and precision of a
band, and is sometimes wound up to
gratify travellers. There are also
3 very curious bureaux along the
walls of this room.
Theatre. — The Hermitage Theatre
is approached through the Gem Room
(XXIII.). It was built by the archi-
tect Quarenghi on the site of an old
palace, but has recently been reno-
vated inside. It is constructed in the
semicircular form of an antique theatre,
and will contain about 500 persons.
The Empress Catherine had comedies
acted there, which were generally
composed by her court, and in some
cases even by her Majesty. The
actors were frequently amateurs, and
sometimes professional, both French
and Russian. The empress sat on one
of the benches of the second row, the
stalls having only been placed in tlie
reign of the Emperor Paul. In front
of her, and at her feet, sat the privi-
leged persons described in M. de Se-
gur's Memoirs. Up to the year 1837
fancy balls used to be given at the
Palace on New Year's Day, to which
as many as 30,000 invitations were
sometimes issued. 600 covers were on
those occasions laid for the sovereign
and the court in this theatre ; a floor-
ing between the stage and the benches
converting it into one immense ban-
queting hall of great beauty. Two such
balls were given, in 1839 on the mar-
riage of the Grand Duchess Marie
Nicolaevna, and in 1841 on that of the
Emperor Alexander II. The Hermit-
age Theatre is thrown open 3 or 4
times during the winter to a very
select circle. \^\jvj% •
Contiguous to the meatre are the
finfisiii. BotUe 1. — 5^. Petersburg : The Hermitage ; Pictures. 99
Room XXXVII.— Mignard and De
Troy. The larger picture in the
centee of this beautiful hall (1450) is
by Mignard, and represents Alexander
and the family of Darius ; it once be-
longed to the Duchess of Kingston.
The other 2 pictures, Susanna and the
Elders, and Lot and his Daughters,
are by De Troy. The columns over
the mantelpiece are of a very beautiful
riband-jasper; the mosaic-work is
Eussian. The doors, made iu Paris,
are of very fine and costly workman-
ship.
barracks of the Transfiguration Regi-
ment, a kind of Praetorian Guard,
which has the privilege of entering
the palace through the Hermitage by
a private door.
Boom XXV. — BaphaeVs Loggie.
(Reached from Room I., Spanish.) —
Catherine II. caused this gallery to
he added to the Hermitage in order
to receive the copies of the famous
frescoes in the Vatican by Raphael.
The originals suffered much neglect
until tlie occupation of Rome in 1813
))y the Neapolitans ; and these copies
have the advantage of representing the
Loggie at a period when they were
better preserved.
In cases in front of the windows in
this gallery is a collection of Oriental
coins, commencing with tlie early
Khalifa, and ending with a Turkish
iL«signat for 20 piasfies. The Persian
war contribution (1828), in Case 12,
contains some interesting specimens.
The Khans of the Golden Horde, the
Khans of Bukhara, and many other
Asiatic rulers, are here represented
in their gold and silver coins. The
collection of Khalife and Djudjids is
particularly fine. Russians never fail
to look at the decoration worn by
Schamyl, which lies in Case 11.
French Gallery. — (Reached from
IlaphaeFs Loggie.)— The paintings of
tlie French School form a separate col-
lection, which is now placed in the old
part of the Hermitage. The view from
the windows of these fine apartments,
occupied by H.R. H. the Prince of
Wales in 1866, embraces a vast and
beautiful panorama of the Neva.
Room XXXIX.* — This contains se-
veral pictures by Vemet. 1550, View
of Palermo; considered to be one of
his best pictures.
B4x>m XXXVIII. has some excel-
lent landscapes by Gaspar Poussin,
several marine pieces by Vemet, and
one of the oft-repeated convent inte-
riors by Granet (1528).
* These nnmbera are not at present over the
doora, bat they are retained here for the pur-
puae of rPDderiog the plan of the Hermitage
£uMta.— 1868.
Room XXXVL (to the left).— 1518,
a fine bold sketch of a head by Greuze,
very like a Gainsborough. 1521 to
1525 are 5 animated and highly-
finished landscapes by Marne; the
Louvre has only 2 pictures by this
artist. The small cabinet pictures by
Chardin, Lancret, and Watteau are
suitable ornaments to this pretty
apartment. 1471, portrait of a young
lady by Santerre i& worthy of notice.
Room XXXV.— 1520, Death of the
Paralytic, the celebrated picture by
Greuze; one of the series in the
Louvre. 1516, by Fragonard, a
charming subject, with . an effect of
chiaroscuro suggestive of a serious
study of Rembrandt. Here are also
2 Lancrets and a pretty little Le
Moine, Cupid asleep, the subject of
his large picture at the Louvre. The
mosaic table in the centre of the room
was made at Rome for the late Em-
press of Russia. It represents views
of the cities visited by H. I. M., and
the statues and pictures which the
empress most admired.
Room XXXIV.— Here are 4 inte-
resting landscapes by Claude Lorraine.
Room XXXIIL (Claude Lon-aine
and Van Loo) contains 6 fine land-
scapes by Claude, representing differ-
ent periods of the day ; 2 mythological
subjects by Van Loo ; and a copy by
Le Moine of Correggio's Jupiter and
lo in the Berlin Gallery.
Room XXXII. (Claude Lorraine,
Van Loo).-— 1433 and 1484, 2 charmiiijr
100
Soute 1. — Si, Petersburg : The MermOage, Sect. 1.
which marks his height does of his
almost gigantic statiu*e. The small
open gilt chariot in which Peter occfi.-
sionally drove has an anomalous ap-
pearance among so many plain and
practical appliances. His effigy, in
the dress of the period, emhroidered
for him by Catherine I. for the cere-
mony of her coronation, is appro-
priately placed in the centre of this
interesting workshop and museum.
The sword which he wears, with a
handle of nephrite, was the gift of
Augustus II. On each side of the
effigy are casts and portraits taken
from the features of Peter after death,
by his painter Tanhauer ; and the por-
trait, in mosaic, over the -chariot, was
executed by the poet Lomonosofll The
victor at Poltava sits opposite to the
horse which he rode at that battle;
but his diminutive charger must have
shrunk considerably in the process of
stuffing, being now not many hands
higher than the wolf-hound which
runs alongside. Two other favourite
dogs are preserved under the same
glass cover. There is also a case con-
taining the medals struck by Peter to
commemorate the more important
events of his reign, while another con-
tains specimens of his coinage, with
a few of a later date. On the top of a
press, near a window, stands a small
effigy of his housekeeper in Holland.
Above the presses the walls are covered
with portraits of his coadjutors in the
work of founding the Russian empire.
Scotchmen observe with satisfaction
the portrait of Count James Brace,
immediately on the right of the door
by which the gallery is entered.
But perhaps one of the most interest-
ing objects in this museum is an addi-
tion which has been recently made to
it : nothing less than a cast of Peter
the Great* s face, made when he was
alive. The cast which is of wax and
furnished with long black hair and
small moustaches, was attached to a
wooden bust and presented by Peter
the Great to his friend Cardinal Va-
lenti at Rome. An engraving taken
from it is preserved at the public
library at St. Petersburg ; but the ori-
ginal had long been missing wheu
landscapes by Claude. 1477, by Su-
bleyras, the Emperor Valens and Saint
Basilius, a small repetition of the cele-
brated picture in the Louvre ; the
mass of light formed by the robes of
the priests in the centre group is ad-
mirably treated. A copy of this pic-
ture, the size of the original, is in the
church of the monastery of St. Alex-
ander Nevski.
Room XXXI. (Poussin, Mignard,
Boucher).— 1486, Repose in Egypt by
Boucher ; an unusual subject for this
painter, whose pencil was chiefly de-
voted to mythological amours, flirta-
tions of fashionable shepherdesses and
their swains, bathing nymphs, and
other nudities. 1399, a powerful and
uncommon picture by Poussin, repre-
senting the body of our Lord at the
foot of the cross.
Room XXX. (Poussin).— 1414 and
1413 are 2 noble classical landscapes,
the first representing Polyphemus, the
second Hercules and Cacus. The
silvery moonlit clouds, and the eftect
of twilight, in the latter, are rendered
with great truth. The centre-piece
(1400), Neptune and Amphitrite, is
remarkable for drawing, composition,
and freshness of colour, as well as for
the beauty of the female figures, which
are evidently studies from life.
Room XXIX. — ^Le Brun, Poussin.
Room XXVIII.— Le Sueur.
Peter the Great's Gallery is en-
tered from Room XVII., although it
forms part of the Winter Palace. It is
devoted to a collection of objects of art
and industry illustrative of the life and
activity of Peter the Great. Here will
be seen the turning-lathes and instru-
ments for carving, with which that mo-
narch worked. Numerous specimens
of his handicraft stand about the room
and in the cases which line the wall.
His telescopes, mathematical instru-
ments, books, and walking-sticks, are
ill objects of curiosity. A heavy iron
^aff" which he carried about tells of
s great strength, as the wooden rod
Russia. Soute 1. — St Peter Aurg: The Hermitage.
101
Mr. Gu«i6)noff, the talented director
of the Hermitage, discovered it at Borne
at the banker Torlonia's, purchased it,
and gave it with generous patriotism
to the gallery, where it now stands.
■ Through a glass door at the end
of this gallery the visitor will proceed
to inspect the wonderful timepiece, in
the shape of a gilded peacock, which
once expanded its brilliant tail, pre-
paratory to a cock of the same hue
flapping his wings and crowing to
announce the hour. The owl also rolled
his eyes, and the grasshopper fed vora-
ciously on the mushroom, in harmony
with the chief actors in this compli-
cated and now broken piece of me-
chanism. It was made by a Prus-
sian in London for a Kussian noble-
man, at whose death Prince Potemkin
bought it for the Empress Catherine.
Around it, in glass cases, is a large
and valuable collection of snuff-boxes,
left by various sovereigns. The one
presented to the Empress Alexandra,
consort of Nicholas I., by Mahmoud
n., Sultan of Turkey, with his por-
trait in miniature on ivory, is resplen-
dent with large diamonds of the first
water. It contained a fine shawl.
The snuff-box, No. 4044, with portraits
of Marie Antoinette and her children,
was presented by Louis XVI. on the
scaffold to his valet-de-chambre Cl^ry.
The miniature on No. 4042 portrays
the Holstein army of Peter III. In-
side the box is a bust of Duke George
of Schleswig-Holsteui, uncle of Peter
III. The beautiful painting on No.
4043 represents the arrival of the first
bride (Natalie of Hesse) of the Em-
jieror Paul at Revel. No. 4023 is a
snuff-box which Frederick the Great
gave to one of his generals, with the
Ibllowing lines written on a piece of
paper inside : —
•• Hier schenk Ich ibm waa,
Heb er es wohl auf
Denn es ist kein Dreck."
In frames against the walls are
numerous historical miniatures of great
interest. Frame J contains very fine
miniatures, by Benner, of sovereigns
of the house of Bomanoff Frame L :
Wallenstein (36), Frederick William
the Great, Elector of Brandenburg (48),
Louis XIV. (45\ Frame M ; Portraits
of Charles I. and his Queen ; Cook (19),
Milton (22), Cromwell (12), George
IV. as Prmce of Wales (20), Moreau
(21), taken after death ; Miss Porter
(24).
Beyond this again is a long gallery,
with presses and glass-cases full of
articles of virtu, curiosities, and his-
torical knicknacks. At each side of
the door is a toilette-case in silver,
made at Augsburg for Sophia, sister of
Peter I. The first press on the right,
numbered 20, contains a valuable col-
lection of jewelled watches and other
costly objects.
Press 19. Two very fine dishes of
Limoges enamel, signed by Pierre Rex-
mon, and six enamel plates by Jehan
Court. No. 2925, the gold cup, in the
form of a snail, belonged to Frederick
William, Elector of Brandenburg. No.
2880, the last cup on the top shelf, in
the form of a shell, is a relic of John
Sobieski
Press 18. Model of a Lapland hut and
household, carved in ivory. The two
ivory vases, on either side, were pre-
sented by Alexander I. to the Emperor
of Japan, who sent them back, on the
ground that he could not accept pre-
sents from an inferior.
Press 17. Toys of Catherine II. and
Marie Feodorowna. A large salver,
with the topography of the province
of Wologda, produced in nieUo-work,
present^ by the province to Alex-
ander I. Potemkin's plume, glittering
with precious stones, presented to him
by the Sultan of Turkey. On the upper
shelf is the golden goblet used at the
marriage ceremonies of the Imperial
family. On the first shelf a cup, sur-
mounted by an eagle holding a balai
ruby, which bears the name of Francis
Drake.
Press 16. No. 2627, magnificent
casket of vermeil^ ornamented witli
pearls, precious stones, and camei, pre-
sented by Sigismund I., King of Po-
land, to his friend Joachim I., Elector
of Brandenburg, 1533. Monster pearls,
mounted in a variety of forms by the
Dinglinger family, jewellers to the
court of Augustus Hj^Jl^presden. No.
" JeromB' Bonaparte
G 2
2682, inkstand of ,
102
Bouie 1. — St. Petersburg : The Hermitage. Sect. I.
(king Lustig), taken at Cassel by
Chemytcheff.
Press 15. Filigree ornaments.— 2594,
Inkstand of IV^urice of Orange, in-
herited by Frederick I. of Prussia, and
containing his seal.
Press 14. Silver objects.— No. 2503,
model of Strasbourg Cathedral ; two
magnificent vermeil goblets; dish, with
arms of Riga, on which the keys of the
town were presented to the Empress
Anne.
Press 13. Japanese and Chinese
articles of gold and silver plate.
Press 12. Crystals.— 2366, small
oval cup, that once belonged to Pope
Clement VIII. Aldobrandini. On 2nd
shelf large crystal cup, mounted in ver-
meil and ornamented with diamonds
and rubies, from the celebrated convent
of Maria Zell, in Austria. Crystal cro-
codile of Italian work. 2377, small
tun, mounted with gold and precious
stones, attributed to Benvenuto Cellini.
On fifth shelf, spoon, with coral
handle, belonged to John Sobieski of
Poland.
Press 11. Japanese and Chinese cu-
riosities, in silver.
Press 10. Kussian curiosities. — Four
small groups, in schistus, by Weneft*.
Several old cups and a casket, in
enamel, called Tsenina, an art learned
from Byzantium. Mosaic head of John
the Baptist, by Siewers.
The inspection of the presses is
here interrupted by an object of some
interest, placed on a stand. It is a
massive silver goblet, by Schlick, of
Copenhagen, on whicii the apotheosis
of the Emperor Nicliolas appears in
high relief.
Press 9. Old Japanese and Chinese
filigree work. — On upper shelf a silver
wig, worn by Narishkin, Grand Mar-
shal of the Court, at a fancy ball given
by Catherine II.
Press 8. Fine collection of old clocks
and jewelled watches. — Two watches,
in the shape of silver ducks. 2034,
watch of an abbess, in form of a cross.
2059 and 2060, two fine clocks of
Augsburg work, early part of 17th
century. 2035, on third shelf, watch,
'~ shape of a Nuremburg egg, by cele-
xl Kussian mechanic Kulybin.
Press 7. Specimens of lapidary's art.
— Handle of walking-stick, represent-
ing a sphynx, in blood jasper, covered
with diamonds ; belonged to Empress
Elizabeth. No. 1904, parrot formed by
a single emerald, presented by King
Pedro II, of Portugal to his bride the
Princess of Savoy. A casket of Flo-
rence mosaic, with arms of Francis I.,
husband of Marie Th^se, destined
for a collection of gems. Two magni-
ficent bouquets, one of fleurs-de-lis^
composed of pearls and diamonds : the
other of several flowers, formed by
splendid topazes, sapphires, rubies,
and other stones.
Press 6. Lapidary's art— No. 1794,
on second shelf, inkstand, in form of
sofa, presented by Stanislas Ponia-
towski to Catherine II. No. 1865, a
large cup of pudding-stone, supported
by St. Christopher, and surmounted
by a figure of the Infant Christ. Two
bouquets of precious stones.
Press 5. Oriental jewellery. — Plume
of Suwaroff, given to him by the Shah
of Persia, and presented by the General
to Catherine IT.
Press 4. China. — Complete tea-ser-
vice of china and enamel ; belonged
to Augustus II. of Poland. A ca^et
of Dresden china, ornamented with
diamonds, and containing the card-
markers still used at the empress*
card-table.
Press 3. No. 1609, glass drinking-
horn, of the time of the last Crusades,
with figures of 4 Evangelists, mounted
in vermeil, of early part of 16th centy.
No. 1612, a tankard of vermeil, orna-
mented with crystals; cover, sur-
mounted by the eagle of the house
of KadziwiU, descending from the old
ecclesiastical princes of Lithuania. On
third shelf, No. 1630, a large cup of
Anglo-Saxon work, found in Russia ;
and at the back of the same shelf a
large silver cover, in the same style,
discovered in Siberia. No. 1629, ewer
and basin, with arms and cipher of John
Cherban III. Kantacuzen, Voevod of
Wallachia.
Press 2. On third shelf small crystal
cup, mounted on vermeil, with the in-
scription " Vsibus Annx CUvens Henr,
VIII. Reg. Angl uxaris, Ao. 1540." On
Russia. Boute 1. — St Fet&i-shurg : The Hermitage.
103
the other shelves will be seen a very
t fine collection of Kubin glass, in-
vented by the celebrated Knnkel, of
Potsdam.
Press I. An Inkstand, made to com-
memorate the battle of Tchesm^ ; be-
longed to Prince Orloflf,
At the end of the room are a few
specimens of ccirving in wood, some of
uhich are by King. Passing by the
{^lass-case with stones and the model
of the monument at Poltava, the visitor
will proceed to inspect the cases on the
other side of the gallery.
Glaas-cas^I. Chinese figures.
Press 26. Head of Madonna, sculp-
tored in mammoth-bone by Scheer, of
Moscow, from model by Prof. Vitali ;
height 23 in., breadth 20 in. Gives
SMne idea of the size of the antediluvian
animal whose tusks are so frequently
fomid in Russia. No. 3394, chess-men,
French work of period of Charles IX.
Xo. 3411, a superb ivory dish, of Ger-
man workmanship, representing hunt-
ing scenes.
Case II. More than 100 ornaments
in gold filigree, from the toilet of a
Japanese lady of quality; equal to
Greek work for fineness, though not
for design. Observe the magnificent
necklace in the shape of a streptoa.
Press 25. Collection of ivory figures,
&c.
Case III. Chinese jade cups.
Press 24. Specimens ot carving in
bone, from Archangel.
Alongside, the visitor will view a
modem work of art, illustrative of a
recent page in history. It is a silver
salver, which, in the allegorical forms
of Hercules and the Hydra, records
the triple alliance against Russia
(1854-56) and its result.' Conceived
and executed by Benjamin Schlick, of
Copenhagen, and offered for sale to the
Emperor.
Press 23. Russian work, in ivory. —
Portrait of Lomonossoff, the poet and
I fisherman, bom at Archangel. Models
' of monument to Minin Kusma Minitch
Sukhomkoff (a butcher from Nijni
I Xo vgoroil) find Prince Pojarsky erected
u% 3U«?ow,
Case V. Carving in ivory, from 14th
centy. — Portrait of Christian V., King
of Denmark, of Duke Augustus of
Brunswick (4415), and of a Duke of
Schleswig-Holstein (4414).
Press 22. Articles which have be-
longed to members of the Imperial
Family. — Set of buttons painted by
the wife and children of Emperor Paul.
Lockets, with hair of Peter the Great,
his father, &c. Dinner and breakfast
services, used by Alexander I. in all
his campaigns.
Case VI. Collection of pocket-books.
— Largest one in centre (7), enamelled
and ornamented with diamonds and
rubies ; belonged to the wife of George
William, Elector of Brandenburg, and
to both wives of Frederick William the
Great, and containing autographs of
Gustavus Adolplius and of most of the
German Princes and Princeses of the
time of the 30 years* war. Memo-
randum-book in morocco ^28), with
gold and enamelled cipher of Sophia
Charlotte, wife of Frederick III., after-
wards first Queen of Prussia ; given by
her to Peter the Great at Konigsberg.
Small book (27), with gold cipher of
Augustus II., King of Poland. Book,
with tortoiseshell cover, studded with
sapphires and rubies; belonged to
Peter III., husband of Catherine II.
Also a few specimens of niello-work.
Press 21. Filigree work. — Silver
peacock, presented to Nicholas I. by
Viceroy of Peru. Model of a Sardi-
nian cannon, with the cross of the
Annunciation.
On small stands near the press are
marble busts of Charles of Anjou, King
of Naples, and his wife, Margaret of
Flanders.
Case VII. A very valuable collection
of rings. — Ring, with portrait of Peter
I. under a pink diamond; another
with likeness of Frederick the Great.
Several betrothal rings of the Imperial
family will be seen in the upper small
case. The ring of greatest interest is
engraved with the arms of E. Fries-
land ; it was given by the Princess of
Frieslnnd to Sophia Ciiarlotto, the un-
happy wife of tiie Toarevitch Alexis,
104
Boute 1.— 5<. Petersburg : the Hermitage. Sect. I.
The jewelled walking-stick handles
belonged to Catherine II. Under the
case will he found an umbrella, made
at Tula for the great empress.
Visitors withdraw through Peter the
Greafs gallery.
Ground-floor,
The ground-floor of the Museum is
occupied by galleries of antique sculp-
ture, by the Kertch and Siberian collec-
tions, by a library, and by a gallery of
original drawings, which should be seen
in the order here given.
Sculpture.— Isi Room. Entering by
a door on the 1. hand, guarded by two
very tall candelabra of rhodonite, the
visitor is introduced to a few Egyptian
and Assyrian fragments of sculpture,
six sarcophagi, and, to some casts from
the bas-reliefs of Nemroud.
2nd Room. Fragments of Greek 'and
Roman sculpture.* On a bracket
against the wall (rt.), bust ofApollonius
Tyaneus, the Pythagorean philosopher,
whose portrait lias hitherto only been
known by a medal. 44. Head of Statue
of Juno ; hair and drapery modern ;
discovered in the Taurida palace;
origin unknown. 87. Panther, from
the Campana collection. f 60. Large
bust of Antinoiis, found at Adrian's
Villa (C).
3rd Room, 147. Omphale with at-
tributes of Hercules (C). 148. Mer-
cury (C). 171. Mars. 152. Colossal
statue of Jupiter ; considered largest in
the world ; found at the Villa Barberinl ;
* For details purchase of the porter • Cata-
logue du Musee de Sculpture Antique.' Price
20 cop. The collection of Egyptian antiquities
has been enriched by the valuable gifts of Kha-
lil Bey, Turkish minister at St Petersburg.
f In 1861 Mr.GuedeonofP, the present Direct-
or of the Hermitage, purchased for the Russian
Government a considerable portion of the col-
lection of the Marquis Campana at Rome, whose
defalcations in connection with the Mont de
Piete, are well known. The French Govern-
ment bought the lessl valuable portion at a
^■eat price. The most important of the objects
^nf^lng to the Campana collection will be
ced and marked with the letter C.
very much repaired (C). 173. Bacchus.
154. Very fine statue of Venus Genetrix,
in best style of Grecian art (C). 175,
Niobe (C.) ; excellent specimen of the
antique. 176. Colossal head of Minerva,
in Parian marble, probably of epoch of
Phidias. The .two marble sarcophagi
at the head of the room are remarkable
for the beauty of the figures in relief
(C).
4th Room. 193. Well-restored statue
of Augustus (C). 194. Beautiful statue
of Marius, found at Otricoli (C). 200.
Arsinoe Philopator ; nose, lower lip, and
lobes of ears restored. 209. Pompey ;
and 210 Julius Csesar (C). 207. Only
existing bust of Sallust (C).
5th Room. In centre immense Tazza
of green jasper from the Altai mount-
ains. It was placed before the windows
were built; diameter 16 J ft. ; more than
8 ft. high. 240. Titus Quinctius.
6th Room. Near door on rt. 274.
Very fine statuette of Silenus. 266,
near the window. Faun and Satyr
(C).
7th Room. Kertch collection, which
see separately.
8th Room. The Nine Muses, from
the collection of the Marquis Campana,
but of various origin. ' 303. Caryatide
Muse, in style of school of Phidias ;
bought at Venice in 1851. 332. Bas-
relief of Ganymede. 337. Niobides ;
very fine fragment (C). 316. A Faun;
best specimen out of lour in the Her-
mitage ; given by Pope Pius IX. in ex-
change for some land on Mount Pala-
tine, purchased by the Emperor Nicho-
las in 1846, for the purpose of making
excavations.
9th Room. Venus of the Hermitage.
343. Very beautiful Greek statue found
in 1859 at Rome, in the Vigna Man-
gani, near the Porta Portese; well pre-
served ; only right hand, fingers of left
hand, and small portion of neck re-
stored; purchased 1859. 347. Venus
from the Taurida Palace; Peter the
Great caused it to be purchased at
Rome in 1719, with some other an-
tiques, and thus laid the foundation of
the present sculpture gallery. There
is another Venus with a Cupid (351)
near the door. Cupid has been added
by the sculptor Bernini (C).
Eussia. Boute 1. — St. Petersburg : The Hermitage.
105
Kertch CoUecUon. — ^7th Boom. An-
tiquities from Cimmenan Bosporus.
Medals and other monuments attest-
ing the existence of Greek colonies,
founded nearly 600 years before the
birth of our Saviour, be^an to be dis-
covered in the early part of this cen-
tury on tlie northern shores of the
Black Sea. The classical names of
PanticapaBum, Theodosia, and Phana-
<;oria, reappeared on the surface.
Many discoveries were made on the
sites of those ancient settlements in
1820, but the earliest prizes of any
value were obtained in 1831, at the
gates of Kertch (Panticapseum), on
opening a tomb concealed-in a mound,
long known to the Tartars as the
" Hillock of the Brave." In a chamber
built of hewn stone were found the
remains of a Scythian prince or ruler,
side by side with his favourite wife, his
equerry, and his war-horse. His crown,
his weapons of gold, his ornaments, and
golden robes, had lain untouched for
more than two thousand years. Nume-
rous vases of bronze, some gilt, others
more simple, and still confining the
remains of provisions which had been
placed in them, were also found, and
carefully conveyed to the Hermi-
tage.
Within the last few years the search
for these treasures has been conducted
at the expense of the crown with
greater method and care, which were
rewarded in 1866 by the discovery at
Taman of the tomb of a Priestess of
Ceres, buried with all her rich orna-
ments, and with her four horses. The
tomb was found within the "Great
Tumulus," or Blimitsa.*
The Kertch antiquities have been
supplemented by many specimens of
ancient jewellery and pottery dis-
covered in other parts of the Crimea,
particularly at Theodosia and Nedvi-
* The traveller is referred for a learned, de-
scription of theae treasures to the valuable works
of the curator of this museum, Mr. I^ Stephani :
' Compte Rendu de la Commission Imp. Arch^
logique pour I'annee 1859; Idem, pour led
annees 1860-6Y.* These 9 volumes may be
pnTx:hased at 5 rs. each at Ej^ers' Library, St.
JPetersburg. They may also be purchased at
Leipzig. A short description of the Museum,
in French, may be obtained at the door of the
Hermitage.
gofka, at the mouth of the Don^ tho
ancient Tanai's.
A study of these treasures will reveal
two species or phases of art, tho one
Greek, the other local. Attracted by
commerce, and by the riches of tlu^
Scythians, the Greeks engrafted their
ancient civilization on them, aud min-
gled their mythology and their classical
forms and legends with the customs,
the emblems, the costumes, and even
the physical types of the barbarians.
The classical scholar will be able to
distinguish in this museum the gems
of art purely Greek, and the scarcely
less b^utiful productions of the Greek
artists and their disciples of the colonies,
which form together the most perfect
and interesting collection of objects of
antique art in the world, immeasurably
superior to the analogous collections of
Naples, 8md other favoured localities in
Italy. The Turks and a few sailors,
quite as many French as English, be-
haved very badly at Kertch, but fortu-
nately only a very few Greek antiqui-
ties were destroyed or carried away by
them. The museum there, founded in
1823, had only been a temporary de-
pository of the antiquities ; and, with
the exception of some duplicates, all
the riches hitherto obtained from tho
classical shores of the Cimmerian
Bosporus had been removed to St.
Petersburg in 1852 ; and even the
more valuable of the duplicates were
taken away at the breaking out of the
Crimean war, and have since been
restored. An Englishman, however,
may always deplore that any repository
of the fine arts should have been plun-
dered in the course of military opera-
tions in which his country was con-
cerned.
In a magnificent room, of which the
roof is supported by twenty monolith
columns of grey granite, the treasures
of the Cimmerian Bosporus are dis-
played under the windows and against
the walls in the following order : —
To the rt. of the door on entering
is a sarcophagus of wood, found in
1860 in a tumulus near Kertch. To
the 1. of the door is the case or coflSn
found inside the sarcophagus, and
which contained the skeleton deposited
106
Boute 1. — St, Petersburg : The Hermitage. Sect. I.
evity (407) ; wheateaxs of beaten gold,
probably worn as ornaments in the
hair.
4th Window. Gold ornaments found
in the " Great Tmnulus " at Taman.
Case rt., vases, 36a and 36&, Paris and
Helena, of magnificent workmanship.
Case 1., vases: 13a, Education of
young Bacchus.
Opposite 4th window, magnificent
vase with figures in relief, coloured
and gilded, representing combats be-
tween the Griffins and Arimaspi ; one
of the principal personages, named
A6rokomas, is on horseback; the other,
Dar^ios, is in a chariot drawn by 2
horses ; one of the griffins has a lion's
head with large horns ; an inscription
says " Xenophantos of Athens has
made it : "—a Greek artist, probably
domiciled in Khersonesus about the
3rd or 4th centy. B.C.
Between the 4th and 5th windows is
a collection of female necklaces in
gold. No. 148, a most perfect gold
filigree necklace or hormos^ found at
Theodosia, in same tomb with 3 other
necklaces alongside. Victories with
quadrigSB will be seen on close inspec-
tion to form the design of the 2 filigree
earrings (84i). Beautiful gold and
enamel necklace withmyosotes (164c);
necklace (160) with pendent charms ;
gold necklace with pendent bull's
head (163), of magnificent workman-
ship; beautiful gold necklace, ter-
minating in head of Medusa, with
pendent amulets against various ills
(161).
5th Window. In the 3 cases are
placed the various objects found in the
tomb of Kul-Ubk
Case rt., ornaments for male attire :
530a, 5306, silver staffs, supposed to
be heralds' ; 432, gold lunbo of shield
weighing 25 oz. ; 456, group of 2 Scy-
thians drinking out of the same horn,
with an intimacy which betrays the in-
fluence of Bacchus ; 433, part of scab-
bard ; 431, handle of sword ; 436, re-
mains of stirrups, iron and gold ; 434,
handle of whip, wood, with thin spiral
gold plate. The other objects wortli
notice are 3 knives, and (447) the
there 400 years B.C. The vermilion
with which some of the ornaments
were coloured is still to be traced, and
the wood itself, supposed to be cypress
and yew, appears almost new.
1st Window. — Under window, terra-
cotta figures. Case rt. terracotta
figures of children playing with vari-
ous animals; a child's doll, with
moveable legs and arms: found in
tombs of children. Case 1., masks
and other objects in pottery. First
from door. Pyramidal Stand I. : do-
mestic utensils of silver, of graceful,
classical form.
Between 1st and 2nd windows.
Pyramidal Stand II. : small objects
in silver, strigils and ampulla; 643
and 515, drinking-cup ; 575, head of
calf, finely chased, 5 centuries B.C. ;
cyathus for wine, and mirror,
2nd Window. Cases on each side
with glass vessels; 796, a painted
glass vase, with " Enrion has made
it." Case under window — glass orna-
ments, chiefly amulets; walnuts, al-
monds, and filberts ; 994, hucklebones
for game of Talus (Astragalos).
Between 2nd and 3rd windows,
Pyram. Stand III., with 6 funereal
crowns of beaten gold.
3rd Window. Under window : 186.
Small ivory box still containing the
red pigment used by the Greek ladies;
3 dice; a wooden small-tooth comb
with Greek inscription, " Present from
sister ; " a splendid bronze cover of a
looking-glass ; small ornaments from
dress ; and remains of a wooden lyre.
Case rt., painted vases ; centre vase in
best style of Greek art ; subject, the
toilet ; a vase alongside, same design.
Opposite 3rd window, iron casque,
with gold and silver ornaments. Be-
tween 3rd and 4th window, octagon
case full of female ornaments of gold ;
buttons, pins, necklaces, gold escallop-
shells, gold filigree wine-strainer
(527a). Bracelets of silver on which
links of gold were once passed ; small
gold chain of exquisite workmanship,
with precious stones inserted between
links ; heads of stag— symbol of long-
Bii8s!a. Bctde 1. — SU Petersburg : The Hermitage,
107
stone for sharpening them; brace-
lets (427), weighing 6 oz. each, and
(426), weighing 3 oz., of gold, bearing
a representation of Thetis defending
herself against Peleus, and Aurora
carrying away the body of her son
Memnon, killed under the walls of
Troy. The streptos or collar (424) of
twisted gold wire, weighing 16 J oz.,
and terminating in two Scythian horse-
men, is of great beauty; the blue
enamel still preserved at the extre-
mities of the ring or collar. 458, small
Scythian figure with bow and arrows.
Under window. Fragments of a lyre,
probably of mammotii tusk, found
abundantly on the Don ; on it is a most
beautiful etching in the highest style
of Greek art, the Judgment of Paris
being one of the subjects ; broken by
the falling in of the tumulus. 451,
electrum vase, with repousse figures of
Scythians mending their weapons, &c.
The principal figm-e appears to have
been woimded in the mouth and leg ;
he is seen a second time submitting
to an operation which looks like tooth-
drawing, and a third time having his
wounds dressed ; the costumes resemble
tho^ of the peasantry in Bussia at the
present day, the shirt being worn out-
tide the trousers, which are tucked
into the boot. 573, a silver rhyton or
drinking-horn ; 574, ditto.
CJase 1. Female ornaments, &c. : 428,
gold bracelets, each weighing 3 oz., of
finest workmanship; fel, earrings,
weighing 2 oz. each. It is necessary
to have a microscope in order to see the
delicate figures concealed in the ex-
quisite ornamentation of tliese jewels.
There are four female figures in each,
representing Thetis, followed by her
Nereides, bringing to Achilles the new
arms forged for him by Vulcan. These
were probably supported by Victories,
detached, perhaps, by accident. Blue
enamel visible in some parts. The
gold collar (425) is inferior to the one
opposite. The use of these ornaments
was Barbarian, not Greek. 439, neck-
lace of plaited gold thread, terminating
in lion's head, not so delicate as the
one in last window ; 450, mirror with
gold handle; the small gold lamina9
proceed from the dress, to which, judg-
ing by the holes in them, they were
attached.
Opposite 5th window is one of the
finest Greek vases in the world, repre-
presenting the Toilet; of beautiful
design. Found near Kertch.
Between 5th and 6th windows, oc-
tagon case with gems. 2 gems re-
presenting a heron flying, signed
" Dexamenos," are the finest and most
important in the Hermitage, or per-
haps anywhere. No. 292^ was found
in a tomb at Kertch, and probably
dates 4 centuries B.C. ; gem 290,
Marsyas and Apollo ; 296a, Medusa ;
329, Ceres ; 295, a griffin ; 296, Venus
at bath; 292, figure of a Scythian.
Two largest known thumb-rings of
gold, with heads of Minerva in cor-
nelian; gold rings, plain and en-
graved; 246, Scythian trying his
arrow, most curious ; 247a, a weU-pre-
served Victory on gold signet-ring.
Bth Window. Case rt., painted vases
with bacchanalian scenes.
In the case under the window are
chiefly objects found in the tomb of a
young woman at the Pavlovsk Battery
at Kertch : 650, looking-glass, necklace,
earrings formed by Victories, and a
ring containing the bone of her finger ;
247/, blue enamel ring, representing
2 Scythian dancers ; 247a, a ring with
Venus at the bath; 2 boots of one
piece, except the soles; fragments of
embroidered dress, partly worked witli
gold thread; 110, painted vase in
terracotta, representing a Scythian
dancing.
Case 1., painted vase with baccha-
nalian subjects.
Opposite the 6th window, on a stand
will be found the painted Greek vase,
which is the second for beauty in the
collection. It was taken from the
tomb at the Pavlovsk Battery near
Kertch. The figures are those of
Triptolemus, Hecate, Ceres, Hercules,
Proserpine, &c.
Between tlie 6th and 7tli windows
is a collection of female ornaments
from dresses, and earrings; five fe-
male heads wearing the stepharuf,
some showing the bull-headed pen-
dants ; enamelled Cupids and Sirera
• G 3
108
Bmiie 1. — St Petersburg : The Hermitage, Sect. I.
The remains of the sandals worn by
the priestess will also be seen with
interest. The splendid ear-ornaments
(84;) were worn suspended from the
crown over the ears, in addition to
earrings. The square gold plates
from the dress of the priestess are
stamped with ^ the head of Medusa,
whose tongue ' protrudes as a charm
against the evil eye. The cases rt.
and 1. are full of the most graceful
little terracotta figures, with subjects
from domestic life ; also^ alabastra
and lamps. On some of the figures
will be seen a head-dress (jmIos),
which was probably the origin of the
nimbus.
On a stand opposite this window are
a vase and basin of gilt bronze, with
handles in form of serpents springing
from the head of Medusa. In the
pyramidal case (No. VI., at the end of
the room) are 7 gold crowns or
wreaths of beaten gold, some with
gems and precious stones. The largest
and finest, with a representation of
combats with grifl&ns, belonged to tlio
Priestess of Ceres.
In a recess beyond this window the
visitor will see some large vessels of
brotize, in the shape of a modern car-
penter's basket, which contained the
mutton with which the corpse at Kul-
Uba was supplied. At the head of
the room are tlie remains of a beautiful
marble tomb with 2 recumbent figures ;
the bas-reliefs evidently represented
Achilles at Syros; work of the 2nd
centy. b.c. Along the wall on the
opposite side of the museum are nume-
rous funereal tablets and sepulchral
monuments bearing inscriptions and
figures of Greeks and Scythians ; 22c
is an unfinished marble bust, found on
Mithridates' Hill; the colunm of a
temple of Venus at Khersonesus ; a
bronze urn, enclosed in the stone,
showing the way in which it was de-
posited, and a votive tablet witli a
figure of Proserpine and other mytho-
logical personages, may be noticed.
On a stand is a beautiful silver helmet
of Grecian work and imusual form.
The sarcophagus of Kul-Uba stands
in a glass case;." the carving of the
wood and the figures in relief are
in various positions; 73a, 2 Bac-
chantes of delicate workmanship.
7th Window. Case rt, painted vases ;
43c, Orestes and Pylades in the Areo-
pagus.
In case under window, silver salver,
with border and centre of niello-work,
and a monogram combining the let-
ters A. N. T. B. ; a gold mask, which
had covered the face of a female ; gold
spindle ; small amphora for perfume,
studded with garnets; gold bracelets
and ornaments from dress ; fragments
of dress.
Case 1., painted vases with human
figures (see 111 and 112). Opposite
tMs window is a fine urn of gilt
bronze.
Between 7th and 8th windows.
Pyramid, stand IV. with funereal
wreaths ; the 2 upper crowns have an
impression from coins of Marc Aure-
lius and of Commodus with Marcia.
8th Window. Case rt, bronze vases ;
2 pairs of greaves.
Under window. Bronze scales from
harness ; arrow-heads (6186, with a
single barb); three ladles for wine;
strigils.
Case 1., fragments of harness and
trappings of bronze and iron, studded
with stones. Opposite the window is
a vase representing a scene evidently
Hymeneal.
Between 8th and 9th windows. Py-
ramid, stand V. with funereal wreaths.
9th Window. The case under this
window contains the richest treasures
in the museum. They were found in
1866 in the ** Great Tumulus" at
Taman, and constitute the ornaments,
&c., of a priestess of Ceres, and the
trappings of the four horses that were
buried with her. Among the orna-
ments, the visitor will be struck with
the extraordinary beauty of the re-
jwusse work — Venus and Cupid — on a
looking-glass cover of bronze-gilt.
The bracelets, diadem, and necklace,
and the buttons of her dress, are all
of exquisite workmanship, as are also
*Ve 4 rings, of which one, the gold
•ab»us (241 F), is quite unique.
fiossia. Boute 1. — St, Petersburg : The Hermitage,
109
very fine ; the gilding and colour are
still partly preserved.
The 2 stataes of a Greek lady and
her husband may well be noticed for
their beauty and perfection, not hav-
ing been in the least restored; pro-
bably of the 1st centy. after Christ.
The other objects on stands, a helmet
and greaves (Knemides) of bronze,
will have the parting glance in this
interesting and unequalled collection.
Scythian Collection,
After leaving the Kertch room, the
visitor shoald return to the Gallery of
tlie Muses, and, admiring once more the
'* Venus of the Hermitage,** pass into a
room devoted to a collection of Scythian,
Siberian, Oriental, and ancient Kussian
objects of antiquity. Here the progress
and influence of Greek art may be
studied in another stage. Although the
Scythian ornaments found near Nicolaef
and the Don, at a comparatively small
distance from the Greek colonies, are of
the most exquisite workmanship, and
might well have come from Athens, yet
the greater part are somewhat inferior
and different in point of art, and were
po-haps manufactured by the Greek art-
istB of Panticapseum or their scholars.
The mythology of the Greeks appears
r^laeed by representations of the do-
mestic usages of the Scythians, or con-
fined to the reproduction of £a.bulous
animals, not persons. Gold was cheaper
inland than on the shores of the
Bosporus, and the jewellery of the Scy-
thians of the Don is consequently more
massive than that of tlie Greek colo-
nists. The gold objects, again, found in
Siberia, perhaps the countoy of the Ari-
maspi, are still more solid and heavy,
and are generally in the lowest style of
art, with scarcely any Greek attributes.
The same may be said of the gold orna-
ments of the oriental Scythians, whom
Strabodescribeswandering between the
Oxos and the Jaxartes, and as wearing
*• in combat girdles of gold, and round
the head bands of gold ; the bits and
plastrons of their horses are of gold."
' Strabo, book xi.)
The most important objects in this
room will be found on the three centre
stands. On the first circular stand will
be found the gold corytos or bow-case of
the king (421). It b^irs a mythological
Greek subject, in repouss6 work, pro-
bably of local interest to a Scythian
ruler. In the next compartment is the
gold scabbard of his sword, representing
a battle-scene between Greeks and Scy-
thians, in which the fate of the battle
appears equally balanced (424) ; the
hilt of the sword, with handle of solid
gold (425); other swords of inferior
workmanship will be seen in Nos. 428
and 436; No. 419 is a sharpening
stone. The other things exhibited in
this case are gold ornaments from the
dresses of the king and the queen,
buried with them, some of them being
evidently of barbarian- origin ; Medusa
heads frequent; the dog engraved on
ring 374 is a good specimen of art. .
On the 2nd stand is the splendid vase
of silver gilt discovered in 1863, with the
dish and ornaments on the remaining
stands, in the tomb of a Scythian king,
on the banks of tlie Dnieper. The vase,
28 in. higli, is in the most perfect style
of Greek art, and cannot be of later date
than the 4th centy. B.C. The magnifi-
cent relief figures round the upper part
represent Scythians taming and other-
wise attending to horses, which pro-
bably belong to the king's stable. The
repousse griffins attacking stags are
mythological allusions to the country
inhabited by the Scythians, in which
the fabulous animal was supposed to
exist. Instead of being poured out with
a cyathus, the wine evidently flowed
out through the heads of the Pegasus
and lion below, after passing through a
fine strainer inside. Probably the work
of an Athenian artist of the period of
Praxiteles.
A large silver dish and ladle, found
with the above objects, is placed on
the 3rd centre stand ; they are of pure
Greek work.
Other specimens of Greek art, with
a considerable admixture of barbarian
imitations, will be seen in some of the
cases in this room. They are numbered
consecutively, but must be described
here according to the groups or collec-
1 tions to which they beloi^^^
110
Boute 1. — St, Petersburg : The Hermitage, Sect. I.
Cases 4 and 6 form an entire collec-
tion of the Scythian objects found in a
tumulus on the banks of the Dnieper.
Case 5, Objects found in the same
tomb as the vase, dish, &c., on the
centre stands (Nos. 1 to 3). On the top
of the case are some gold cups of large
size, found at Serai, the ancient capital
of the Khans of the Golden Horde.
Case 7 contains gold and silver ob-
jects found la a tiunulus near Novo-
cherkask, and which must have be-
longed to some king. From the style
of the diadem and the small Cupid in
gold (13), they must be contempora-
neous with the Emperors of Rome.
Cases 8, 9, 12. Gold and silver ob-
jects removed here from the Academy
of Sciences. They were mostly found
in the Southern Steppe provinces, and
only a small minority in Siberia. The
traveller will notice in the case nearest
the door a Streptos of solid gold, ter-
minating in the bodies of lions and
weighing 3 lbs. Some of the orna-
ments aie studded with turquoises.
Case 12 is under the left window.
Cases 10, 11, and 13. These will be
found near the windows. They contain
objects attributed to the Chud or Fin-
nish race, anciently inhabiting the
confines of Siberia and Russia Proper.
The bronze weapons of the same people,
such as daggers, knives, and mining
implements, will be found in a case
near the window.
Cases 14 and 18 contain a collection
of bronze objects from the Kirghiz
Steppes, such as celts, arrow and spear
heads, &c.
Case IG, imder 2nd window, holds a
collection of Byzantino-Slave objects,
found principally at Kief The gold
earrings with enamelled figures of
Sirens are of the 11th centy., as is
also the large gold medal of Chernigof
seen in the centre of the case. The
inscription round it, in Slavonic, is
** Lord aid thy servant Basil." In the
centre is the head of Medusa and a
dragon being vanquished by a figure
representing Christianity. This was a
kind of amulet worn round the neck by
the early Russian princes and their
•onsorts in the 11th and 12th cents.
s Basil was the name taken by St. Vla-
dimir when he was baptized, it is not
improbable that the amulet belonged
to that sovereign.
Case 17 is full of Mongolian pottery
found in the ruins of Serai.
Case No. 20, under the 3rd window,
contains 2 well-preserved dishes of Per-
sian (Sassanide) work, of the early-
part of the Christian era ; also the re-
mains of a gold sheath, with Assyi-iaii
winged figures. The most remarkable
object in this case is, however, the silver
patera, with a border in bas-relief, re-
presenting crocodiles, pelicans, leopards,
and the lotus-flower. In the bottom of
the dish are the repousse figures of a
man standing on the back of another
and chiselling the first 5 letters of the
Greek alphabet on a tower of 2 stories.
The subject is evidently the Nilome-
ter. Found in the province of Perm,
on the borders of Siberia, and probably
Roman work of the 2nd centy. a.c.
Library, <fec.
The room next the Siberian Gallery
is occupied by a collection of engrav-
ings, the basis of which is formed by
those of the Walpole collection. It is
said to contain 200,000 plates, some of
which are exposed in glass cases ; but
they cannot be particularized, ns they
arc changed several times in the
course of the year.
The Library is contained in the
next room. It was formerly composed
of the libraries of Diderot, d'Alem-
bert, Voltaire, and many others ; but
the greater part of the books and
MSS. have been removed to the
Public Library, leaving only 10,000
vols, on Archajology (some of which,
are of great value and interest), and a
collection of works on art, together
with documents relating to the dif-
ferent museums of the Hermitage.
Only a portion of the Archseological
Library is here; the rebt has been
removed to remote rooms.
Part of the library is railed ol?
and appropriated to a collection of
archffiological curiosities and small
bronzes, many of them being Pom-
l^eian, and dug out of the ground iu
Russia. Boute 1. — St. Petersburg : The Hei^iitage,
111
the presence of members of the Im-
perial family. The spears at the en-
trance are Etruscan. The 1st case at
the window (A 4) contains 3 paterse
and other small objects. Case B, large
silver salver (413) of Eoman work,
foond near the river Pruth, in Mol-
davia. Another dish (446), of re-
pousse' work, representing the chase,
also Soman, found in S. of Kussia;
Mirror; 406, "Venus and Adonis/'
remarkable. Last Case : 14 mirrors,
principally Etruscan, and engraved.
The Etruscan helmet (364), found at
Bolsena, is one of tlie most valuable
objects from the Campana collection.
It is of bronze, with a thin covering
of silver, like the helmet (682) in the
Kertch collection. It is surmounted
by a crest, covered with a thin plate
of gold, on which some ornaments are
engraved. The indentation seen at
the top was made by the stone which
killed the wearer, whose fractured
skull was found inside, and lies under
Case B. Over the helmet are an
Etruscan javelin and shield, and a
pair of greaves. Against the wall on
the other side are 6 bronze helmets,
Etruscan and Roman. There is an-
otlier fine Etruscan hebnet (423) on a
stand by itself, found in the necro-
polis of Vulci by Lucien Bonaparte ;
the 3 gold crowns have been restored
from antique models. Over it a bronze
cuirass and 2 shields. Opposite it,
on a stand, is a large and massive
bilver pail (431), found in Moldavia,
with figures of Leda, Cupid, Hylas,
Daphne and Apollo, &c., in reponsse
work. The vase, 373, with relief
figures of amazons and handled, formed
by Centaurs, was found with it.
Roman work, 3rd centy. a.o.
The cases on the other side, 9 to 12,
are full of statuettes in bronze and
terracotta, lamps, small vases, and
other articles of pottery. On the top
of Case 3 two bronze statuettes, found
in S. Russia (553), with a Cliristian
inscription. In Case 1, a steelyard.
An elegant Etruscan tripod will be
noticed on a stand.
The long gallery alongside, opening
into the library, corresponds with that
upstairs painted in imitation of the
Loggia of Raphael. It is called the
Gallery of Drawings by ancient mas-
ters (about 12,000 numbers). The
drawings exposed on tlio walls and in
the glass cases being clianged period-
ically, it is impossible to indicate the
numbers. Among the most interest-
ing in the collection are the follow-
ing : — Landscai)e and head of an old
man, by Rembrandt. Van Dyck :
portraits of Breughel '* the Velvet,"
Francois de Moncade (whose eques-
trian picture is in the Louvre), and
head of the painter Sebastian Vrancx ;
a sketch for the picture in the collec-
tion of the Duke of Buccleuch. Ru-
bens : Helen Fourment, Cleopatra,
and the sketch for the large picture
in the Hermitage, Magdalen washing
the feet of Christ in tlie house of the
Pharisee. Charming sketches of fe-
male heads, by Lancret ; a nude figui-e
and pretty head, by Boucher ; and an
old woman spinning, by Wntteau.
After leaving the gallery the visitor
passes through 4 rooms, containing a
very large and well-arranged collec-
tion of Greek and Etruscan vases, of
every possible shape and form, and
more than 1300 in number, and the
finest, in point of quality, though not.
in extent, in the world. They be-
longed principally to a collection made
by Dr. Pizzati, and were for some
time deposited at the Academy of Arts ;
but the most valuable specimens are
from the Campana Museum. Anti-
quities of this description being well
known in England, it will sullico to
mention the 3 principal vases in the
collection. In the centre of Room 17
stands the gem in this department.
It is the beautiful and perhaps match-
less vase found at Cumse, purchased
with the Campana Museum, and called
" the king of vases." The beauty of
the relief and the freshness of the
gilding and colours render it one of
the most interesting specimens of ce-
ramic art. The subject represented
is the Mysteries of Eleucis; of 4th
centy. B.C.
The other vase or amphora next to
it in beauty and size is No. 523, to tho
1. of the Cumse vase. Subject, Battle
of the Gods ^i^d ,^yite6wgBL4'^^ ^^
112
Boute 1, — St Peiershurg : Cathedral,
Sect. I.
another fine Apulian amphora, with a
representation of Priam asking Achilles
for the body of Hector .♦
The mosaic floor in this room was
excavated in the Crimea.
The visitor will pass out through a
room in the centre of which is a large
tazza of aventurine. The stands for
candelabra at the door in the hall bear
the date of the birth of the Emperor
Alexander I., to whom they were pre-
sented.
5. Marble Palace^ on the Court Quay.
— This was erected by Catherine,
between 1770 and 1783, as a residence
for Prince Gregory Orloff, who died
before its completion. It was designed
by Quarenghi, and was the residence
of Stanislaus Poniatowski until his
death, when it became the property of
Constantino, brother of the Emperor
Nicholas. At present it is inhabited
by the Grand Duke Constantino Nico-
laevitch. The extraordinarily massive
Walls of this sombre building are built
of blocks of granite ; the supports of
the roof are iron beams, the roof itself
sheet copper, the window-frames gilded
copper. There is very little marble in
its construction to justify its name.
Over the riding-school and stables
alongside is a colossal bas-relief by
Baron Klodt, a Russian sculptor.
This palace is not generally in-
spected by tourists.
6. Fortress and Cathedral of St,
Peter and 8t, Paul, — Peter the Great
laid the foundation of a fortress on the
16th May, 1703, but the present forti-
fications of stone were commenced in
1706 under the superintendence of
Tressini, an Italian architect. The
corner stone of the cathedral was laid
in 1714 on the site of a church built
in 1703. Consecrated in 1733, it was
struck by lightning for the third time
in 1756. The spire fell in and de-
stroyed a Dutch clock which had been
placed in the tower at great expense,
* Vide 'Catalogue des Vases Peints/ 1864.
Price 25 cop. Sold at the door of the Hermitage.
besides doing much, other damage.
The body of the ch. was restored in
1757, and Balles, a Dutch architect,
drew the plan of a new belfry and
spire. The former was finished in
1770, and the latter was put up in
1772. The frame-work was covered
with sheets of copper, as well as the
globe, the angel, and the cross which
surmounts the spire. The gilding of
the copper cost 2814 ducats, or 22
pounds of pure gold. The present
clock, with chimes, was put up in
1774. The angel and cross showing
symptoms of decay, a Eussian peasant
undertook in 1830 to repair them. He
accomplished the feat with extraordi-
nary daring, aided only by a nail and
a rope, and repaired the damage ; but
in 1855 it was found necessary to
erect a scaffolding to the very top of
the spire in order to secure it more
thoroughly.
The cathedral, as it stands at present,
is an oblong building, 210 feet in
length and 98 in breadth. The walls
are 58| feet high. A small lantern-
shaped cupola, painted white, rises over
the altar. The western end is sur-
mounted by a four-cornered belfry,
112 ft. high, above which rises the
pyramidal spire, so conspicuous for its
elegance amidst the many domes and
cupolas of St. Petersburg. The spire
alone is 128 ft. high, the globe 6 ft.,
and the cross 21 ft. The summit of the
cross is therefore 387 ft. above the
level of the ground, or 26 ft. higher
than St. Paul's. It is the tallest spire
in Russia, with the exception of the
ch. tower in Revel.
All the sovereigns of Russia since
the foundation of St. Petersburg lie
buried in the cathedral, e'xcepting only
Peter II., who died and was interred
at Moscow. The bodies are depositeil
under the floor of the ch., the marble
tombs above only marking the sites of
the graves. The tomb of Peter the
Great should be visited first. It Ilea
near the S. door, opposite the image
of St. Peter. The image with its ricli
gold frame gives Peter's stature at his
birth, viz. 19i in., as well as his
breadth, 5J in. His consort, [^Cathe-
Russia. BmUe 1. — SL Petersburg : Academy of Sciences.
113
rine I., lies buried in the same vault.
The tomb of Catherine 11. is the third
to the right of the altar-screen. The
row of tombs on the N. side of the
cathedral begins with that of the
Emperor Paul. The image of St.
Paul, opposite to it, also gives the
height and breadth of that sovereign
at birth. . The diamond wedding-ring
of the Emperor Alexander is attached
to the image near his tomb. The
sarcophagus of the Grand Duke Con-
stantine, brother of Nicholas I., will be
recognised by the keys of the fortresses
of Modlin and Zamoscz, in Poland,
which lie on it. The Emperor Nicho-
las lies in the aisle opposite the tomb
of Peter the Great, while the grave
of his grandson and namesake, the
deeply -lamented Tsesarevitch, who
died at Nice in 1865, will easily be
recognised in the same aisle by the
palm-branches and garland of roses
deposited upon it by those who so
deeply mourn his loss.
The walls are almost concealed by
military trophies, standards, flags,
keys of fortresses, shields and battle-
axes, taken from the Swedes, Turks,
Persians, Poles, and French. The
devices on the flags will be a sufficient
indication of their origin.
The fortress is used as a state
prison. Alexis, the eldest son of
Peter the Great, having been per-
suaded to return from Germany, was
arraigned for treason and imprisoned
in the dreary casemates of this dun-
geon, where his father visited him
immediately previous to his sudden
death. The conspirators of 1825 were
confined and tried, and some executed,
witlun its walls. The cells are not
shown to visitors, but the ch. is open
all day. The Imperial Mint stands
within the walls, and may be viewed
on application.
7. Peter tlie Greafs Cottage.— Thia
was the first house and palace built
. by Peter on the banks of the Neva
f in 1703. It stands to the right of
the fortress, at a little distance from
it, but on the same island. Its
length is- about 55 ft, and its breadth
20 ft. It contains two rooms and a
kitchen ; that on the left was Peter's
bedroom and dining-room, and is now
used as a chapel. A miraculous image
of the Saviour, which accompanied
Peter the Great in his battles and
assisted at Poltava, is suspended there,
and receives the salutations of nume-
rous devotees. Two guardians of the
house were foully murdered by a sol-
dier in 1863, for the sake of the dona-
tion box. Numerous relics of the great
reformer of Russia are kept here : the
boat which he built, the remains of
its sails, and the bench on which he
sat at his door, are all preserved under
the -casing with which the entire
building has been covered to protect
it from decay.
The wooden church between the
fortress and Peter the Great's house,
at the foot of the Troitski bridge of
boats, was .consecrated in 1710, and is
therefore the most ancient sacred edi-
fice in the capital, the cathedral of
St. Peter and St. Paul having been
rebuilt since its foundation.
8. Academy of Sciences, on the Vas-
sili Ostrof, between the University
and Exchange. — By desire of Peter
the Great, Leibnitz drew up the sta-
tutes of this Academy, and it was
founded in 1724. It is now divided
into three departments : Mathematical
Science, Bussian Language and Lite-
rature, and History and Philology.
Many eminent men have been mem-
bers of it, the earliest being Baer,
Euler, Miiller, Pallas, Gmelin, and
Schubert. It is now presided by
Admiral Count Liitke, a circum-
navigator of the globe, whose contri-
butions to science, and particularly to
geography, are well known. There
are 21 ordinary members, 55 honorary,
among whom 7 foreign, and its coiTe-
spondents are above 200 in number.
The State contributes about 41,000/.
per annum towards its support. The
Astronomical Observatory at Wilna is
attached to it.
The Library contains 147,000 books
and MSS. ; among tlie latter may bo
mentioned those of the celebrated
114
Boute 1. — St. Petersburg : Academy of Sciences, Sect. I,
Kepler in 18 volumes. One of its
greatest treasures is the * Code Rrtdzi-
will/ or MS. of the Chronicle of
Nestor, written about a.d. 1280. It is
ornamented with numerous illumina-
tions, which show that the earlier
costumes of the Russians were the
same as those of England, France, or
Germany ; the present Asiatic dress
having been only introduced since the
14th century.
In the Asiatic Musemn is a further
collection of books and MSS., number-
ing nearly 12,000. Of these, 1369 vols,
are in the Chinese language ; tiie re-
mainder are in the various characters
and dialects of the East, and relate to
its history, religion, and literature.
There is likewise a cabinet of Eastern
coins and medals in this museum,
21,536 in number. An interesting
collection of Mongolian idols, in gilt
bronze, illustrating the religion of
Budha, will also arrest the "eye. ,
The Egyptian Museum has surren-
dered its mmnmies to the Hermitage,
and now offers little of interest.
The Ethnographic Museum consists
of the dresses and implements of the
various races that inhabit the Russian
empire : likewise some of Chinese,
Persians, Aleutans, Carelians, and of
the populations of many other regions
little known except to Russian tra-
vellers.
The collection of medals and coins
contains numerous specimens collected
chiefly by Count Suchtelen, and pur-
chased by the Academy. The progress
of the art of coining money in Russia
may be well studied here. There are
long gradations between the leather
tokens of antiquity, the platinum
coins of Catherine, and the gold half-
imperials of the present reign.
The Botanical Collection has been
enriched by the herbarium of the late
academician Meyer.
The Anatomical Cabinet contains
an exhibition of subjects by no means
pleasant to view, although of interest
to the pathological student. The head
of a lady whom Peter the Great loved
is one of the most interesting curiosi-
ties.
TheMineralogical Collection is large
and useful for the purposes of instruc-
tion, and the greater part of its riches
are due to the labours of the learned
Pallas. It is not, however, conspicu-
ous for many very remarkable speci-
mens. One of these is a large and
rich twisted branch of native silver
from Siberia; and another, of much
interest, is the large aerolitic stone
that fell at Smolensk in 1807, present-
ing the usual black crust and pris-
matic form of these remarkable bodies.
There is also one of the largest me-
teorites in Europe, though surpassed
by those in the mineral department of
the British Museum. It was foimd
at Krasnojarsk in Siberia, and is re-
markable for containing the mineral
olivine, in some cases crystallized,
whicli fills the cavities of the great
sponge-like mass of the iron.
A large artificial globe, constructed
by Euler, may be seen in one of the
rooms. It is no longer a curiosity
since Wyld's Great Globe was put up
and taken down in Leicester Square.
Although as yet incomplete, the
Zoological Collection will perhaps be
of greater interest than any other to
the English traveller, for it contains
the unfossilized remains of the great
mammoth and rhinoceros. These are
especially remarkable from their hav-
ing been preserved through countless
ages in the ice of Siberian rivers,
and from their flesh and integuments
having been from this cause so pre-
served from decay, that wolves and
bears came down to feed on them as
soon as they were revealed. The mam-
moth was discovered in 1799, by a
Tungusian fishermen, on the banks
of the Lena in Siberia, in lat, 70°, and
was afterwards brought away by Mr.
Adams in 1806 ; and thus the break-
ing away of a cliff brought the men
of the last generation face to face
with a si)ecies of elephant that had
ceased to exist, as a living creature,
for a period which the modem geolo-
gist carries far back in time, to what
may be called the geological dawn of
human history.
The monster whose remains are
here very in^nei^fes^tj^^^dn^ited was
comparatively biit a small, and per-
Eusfiia. Baute 1. — St, Pelershurg : Academy of Sciences, 115
Besides these, a large assortment is
here seen of the bones of this extinct
species of elephant (EUphas primi*
(j€niti8, Blumbach), some of the indivi-
duals of which seem to have surpassed
this specimen in size as much as the
latter exceeds the elephant by its
side. The remains of an extinct
species of rhinoceros {Ehin. teichoT'
hinw) are scarcely less interesting
than those of the mammoth. A head,
on which the skin is almost entire,
and the feet similarly clothed, and
having even fine hair still on parts
of them, form the most important
portions of these remains. The skull,
owing to its great length and the
arching of the upper jaw, has some
resemblance to that of a bird, and
may, perhaps, have given rise to the
fables which circulate among the
savage tribes on the shores of the Icy
Sea respecting a colossal bird of old
times, the bones of which are said to
be occasionally found. The learned
curator of the museum has analyzed
the remains of food found in the cavi-
ties of the teeth of this huge beast,
and discovered that he fed on young
branches of the fir-tree. There are
about 15 skulls of the animal kept
here. In these remains we probably
see the animals of whom the ancients
had heard from the Arimaspi. It is
at all events certain that the tusks of
the mammoth were well known to the
Greeks, and obtained from their trade
with the Scythians.
Amongst other objects in the Zoolo-
gical Collection are well-stuflfed speci-
mens of the sea otter from the N.
Pacific, one of which is 5 or 6
ft. long, and whose skin alone is
valued at 200Z. The birds from
Kamchatka are also a valuable series,
including some of the duck tribes of
great scarcity. The sturgeons of
every sea may be here seen, including
species from the Amur and the Cas-
pian. The skeleton of a huge Du-
gong {Butya stillagis) is supposed to
represent a species that has become
extinct since 1745, but the claim thus
urged on behalf of this skeleton has
been disputed bf ^^fc^dt^h'^hysiolo-
ffists.
haps a young, individual of his race.
The huge skull of one of his kindred
lying in the same room shows that
the mammoth must have attained a
size one-fourth, if not one-third, larger
than the one here seen ; the skeleton
is also incomplete. The tusks do not
belong to the same individual as the
bones, and some of the bones of the
legs of the left side, which was that
most exposed to the ravages of wild
beasts and to the influence of the
climate, are made up of wood and
plaster, but the bones of the right
side are pretty complete, and the feet,
like the head, are covered by the in-
teguments. Only nine of the ribs
belonged to the animal. A mass of
the skin may be seen alongside ; and
in the glass case is a piece of skin
with some of the reddish-brown hair
still adhering to it. The hair was a
distinguishing feature of this denizen
of northern latitudes.
A small stuffed elephant and its
skeleton stand side by side with the
mammoth, for the purpose of com-
parison, but they look. small when
compared with the mammoth, which
is at least 2 ft. higher and longer in
the same proportion, the latter beiAg
13 ft. long. The difference between
the two skeletons, in the position of
the tusks, immediately attracts notice.
In the mammoth they approach closer
together at the roots than in the ele-
phant, and are in this specimen re-
presented as extending laterally like
two scythes in the same horizontal
plane, and not in two parallel verti-
cal planes as in the elephant. But
this would appear to be an erroneous
restoration of the tusks of the mam-
moth, the true direction of which was
first forwards, and, at some distance
firom the head, inwards, exactly in a
contrary direction to that here repre-
sented. Some of the mammoth-tusks
in this museum are 8^ ft. long. The
mammoth is also distinguished from
the elephant by the greater length
and compression of its skull, as well
as by its superior height, giving the
elephant the advantage of an appa-
rently greater intellectual develop-
ment.
116
Souie 1. — SL Petersburg : University.
Sect. I.
The Academy is open on Mondays
to the public. An introduction to a
member of it is of service in seeing
the different collections at any other
time.
9. The University stands on the
Vassili Ostrof, near the Exchange.
It was founded in 1819. It has, in
addition to the Faculties of History,
Physics, and Jurisprudence, that of
Oriental languages, of which a great
variety are practically taught here.
There is no chair of medicine, which
is banished to a special a^mdemy,
situated a little higher up the river,
and founded in 1800, under the super-
intendence of the late Sir James WyUe,
Bart., a Scotch physician, who did
much towards advancing his science
in Bussia. {Vide "Monuments.*')
This University is attended by about
400 students, the matriculations being
rs. 50 (7Z. lOs.), as at Moscow. The
nobility only began to send their sons
to Russian universities under the reign
of Nicholas, when Count Ouvaroff,
Minister of Public Instruction, set the
fashion by sending his own son to the
University of St Petersburg. In tliat
reign education received a more na-
tional impress, and somewhat of a
military tendency, since abandoned.
The students no longer wear swords
and cocked hats, and are in every way
liberally treated. The policy of the
Emperor Nicholas in reference to edu-
cation was summed up in three words
contained in an instruction to Count
Ouvaroff: *' Orthodoxy, autocracy, na-
tionality."
Tiie library contains 63,000 vols.
The scientific collections are unim-
portant. The remaining universities
of the empire are situated at Moscow,
Kief, Kazan, Kharkof, Dorpat, and
Helsingfors.
10. Academy of ^Aris,* on Vassili
Ostroff.— Peter the Great bestowed
much attention on the introduction of
• Open (Jaily, gratis, from 10 to 4.
the fine arts into Bussia, and sent
many young men to study in Italy and
other countries. Three of those pupils
attained some celebrity in Bussia by
painting images for the Church in the
style of the Italian masters, as, for
instance, those in the Church of the
Fortress. The chamberlain Schouva-
loff, founder of the University of Mos-
cow, induced the Empress Elizabeth in
1757 to establish an Academy of
Fine Arts. Lossenko was one of the
first academicians. In 1764 the Em-
press Catherine II. granted new sta-
tutes, and patronised the productions of
native artists, who had to be checked
in their tendency of painting in a
Byzantine ecclesiastical form for the
ornamentation of chs., by which they
obtained much lucrative employment.
Under the direction of Lossenko, the
Academy produced Ugruimoff, the
painter of two pictures in the Bussiau
department of the Hermitage Gallery.
In the reign of the Emperor Paul the
pupils of the Academy were much given
to fresco-painting in the style of Wat-
teau and Boucher, and it was only in
that of Alexander I. that any great
talent began to be exhibited. The
Ivanoffs, father and son, and Bruloff,
were the most eminent artists of that
period. Then followed Brunni, Stche-
drin, Bogoliuboff, Aivazofski, and
many others. The present curator of
the picture gallery of the Hermitage
is a celebrated Bussian academician,
Mr. Neff, a very successful painter of
nymphs.
The Bussian school has lately pro-
duced 2 pictures of striking merit —
* The Last Supper,'-by Gay, a realistic
conception of great boldness, since it
entirely departs from the conventional
representation of the position of the
Saviour and His Disciples at table, and
portrays them reclining on couches, in
accor(te,nce with Eastern custom ; the
other picture is by Flavitzky, * The
Princess Tarakanova in prison during
an inundation.* She is depicted with
much pathos, struck with terror at the
rising of the water which was soon to
swallow her. The princess was an im-
postor and a state prisoner, and is
erroneously supposed to have met her
Eussia. Boute 1. — SL Petersburg : Academy of Arts,
death in the fortress of St. Petersburg
in the manner depicted {vide Descrip- Picture GaMeries,
tion of NoYospaski Monastery at Mos-
cow). Scnlptnre and architecture have
not as yet inspired and rendered very
famous any pupil of this Academy.
The present building was erected
between 1765 and 1788, by a Russian
architect, partly after designs by La-
motteandVelten. It forms an immense
pile, 1722 ft. in circumference, and 70
ft. in elevation. The facade on the Neva,
about 400 ft. in length, is adorned with
columns and pilasters. The portico
in the centre is ornamented with the
statues of a Famese Hercules and a
Flora, and is surmounted by an elegant
cupola, on which a colossal Minerva is
seated. On the parapet in front of the
Academy are two superb granite
sphynxes, brought from Egypt.
Under the enlightened directorship
of Prince Gagarin, the building has
been entirely transformed, and its
contents rearranged. The lower floor
is now devoted to sculpture, speci-
mens and casts of which are arranged
chronologically in a series of rooms,
beginning with the early Greek and
Boman schools, and terminating with
the sculpture of the present day.
Visitors will recognise casts, of many
familiar and celebrated objects of art.
Above this floor are the galleries ap-
propriated to painting, whfle the upper
story contains a large collection of
drawings, &c., illustrative of the pro-
gress of architectural art. A well-
lighted hall in the same flat is des-
tined for an exhibition of pictures, to
be held annually in September. The
Picture Gallery, once of little interest
except to those who might wish to
study the Bussian school in its earlier
stages, has been made very attractive
by tlie fine collection of French, Bel-
gian, and German pictures, bequeathed
to it by Count Kouchelef, who died in
1864. As the internal arrangement
of the picture gallery is not quite com-
plete, the following description must
necessarily be brief and imperfect.
117
Ascending the handsome staircase
of the Academy, the visitor will enter
by a door on the left of the landing
into the
Ist Boom. — ^Walls covered with copies
of Baphael's cartoons by Bruni, Hof-
man, and other artists of the Bussian
school.
2nd Boom. — Medals and gems in
centre. Cartoons of boar-hunts and
sylvan sports.
3rd Boom. — ^A few pictures by Van
der Heist,* Teniers, aod other Duteh
artists. Portrait of Mosnier, the
painter. Allegorical picture, with
Catherine 11, in the centre, by Torelli.
4th Boom, — ^Marble statue of Count-
ess Ostermann, by Thorwaldsen. A
few small pictures by Greuse, Mosnier,
and Ingres, and a study by Haydon.
5th Boom. — (The Kouchelef collec-
tion begins here.) Cussingen's marble
statue of Sappho. 2 pictures by Ary
Schefter. Very good specimens of
Messonier, particularly '* the Smoker."
A tolerably good collection of Diaz's,
near the door. On the wall to the
left, a startling picture by Horace
Vemet, his daughter being carried
away by the Angel of Death. A pool,
by Daubigny, is a very pretty little
picture. A 'Sea View,' and 'A
Fisherman,* by C. Hoguet, are good
specimens ; and Isabey's * Eetum
from tlie Chase ' will strike the visitor
by its bright and pleasing colouring.
The most remarkable picture in the
collection is, however, Paul Delaroche's
well-known * Cromwell contemplating
the dead body of Charles I.' This is
one of three pictures of that subject
painted by the same artist. Near it
is *The Death of Correggio,' by
Tassaert ; also * Scenes in Morocco,'
by Delacroix. The * Sheep-pen/ by
C. Jacques, is a very happy specimen
of the French school. Brascassat's
Bull is of great merit. The other pic-
tiu*es of note in this room are * Blow-
ing up of a Ship,' by T. Gudin ; a
• As the pictures are destined to receive new
numbers, they can only be designated by the
Danies of the s^rtists.
118 Boute 1. — St. Petersburg : Mining School, Sect. I.
Chestiakoff, 'The Mother of VassUi
the Dark snatching the girdle of
Dimitry of the Don from Vassili the
Squint-eyed, at the marriage of her
son.' The girdle was to be always
worn by the heir to the throne of
Moscow, and "Vassili the Squint-
eyed" had possessed himself of it
wrongfully. Next to this is ' John the
Terrible listening to the Priest Syl-
vester,' his good mentor in the early
part of his reign, by Pleshanof. The
picture of * Sviatopolk the damned,'
who killed hia three brothers and then
fled to the woods pursued by remorse,
is by Sheremetef, a very promising
dilettante. In the next room is the
famous representation of the Last Sup-
per by Gay. There is little to be said
of the remaining specimens of Bussian
art. Two rooms are devoted to the
portraits of members and presidents of
the Academy, while in the 14th room
are some curious, ill-executed like-
nesses of Cossack Ketmans, and a
rather good picture of Shah Murza-
Kula-Khan. The last room contains
portraits of the Emperors Paul, Alex-
ander I., Nicholas, and some early
sketches by members of the imperial
family. Near the door is a portrait of
Peter the Great, taken after death.
* Sea Shore,' with an excellent effect
of distance, by F. Ziem ; a * Young
girl in a wood,' by T. Couture; 2
pictures by Leopold Robert ; 4 by C.
Troyon ; Gerome's well-known picture
of the • Duel after the Masquerade ; *
* View on the banks of the Nile,* by
P. Marilhat; a charming bouquet of
flowers, by S. St. Jean ; and, lastly, a
* Study from nature,' by T. Rous-
seau.
6th Boom, — German and Belgian
schools. 2 pictures by Gallait (see
* The Duke d'Egmont '). 4 pictures by
Leys, and a very toucliing picture by
C. Stevens, *The Organ-grinder and
his dead Monkey.* The *Lady and
Page ' is by C. Becker of Berlin. The
most successful picture in this room is
perhaps *The fire at a farm-house,'
by L. Knaus, one of the earliest pro-
ductions of that artist. Opposite to it
is a good specimen of Hildebrand.
There are also two or three pictures by
Achenbach in this room.
7th Boom.— This will be recognised
by the marble bust of Count Kouchelef
over the door leading into the library
beyond (38,000 vols.). The pictures
here are mostly by ancient masters.
There is a landscape attributed to Rem-
brandt, and therefore rare. * Infant
Jesus with attributes of healing,* by
L. Cranach ; Terburg, * Portrait of a
lady ; ' Mieries, * Boy blowing bub-
bles;* Breughel, * Adoration of the
Magi;* Cuyp, *A gentleman leaving
for the chase ; * and a pleasing Greuse.
From the 5tli Room, or from the
top of the stairs, opposite the door
leading into Room 1, the visitor will
enter the
Russian Gallery, with windows
facing the court. The collection of
pictures by Russian artists is con-
tained in no fewer than 15 rooms, but
the pictures, although of large dimen-
sions, are not numerous. They are
arranged chronologically, and it will
be seen that the first 3 rooms afe de-
voted to very feeble attempts. In the
4th room are pictures by Brulof and
Stchedrin, and a very curious represen-
itioQ of a Calmuck menage. In the
bh room is an interesting picture by
11. Corps des Mines, Mining School,
— This large and important establish-
ment forms a striking object on the
right- bank of the river, near the
western extremity of the Vassili Ostrof.
It is a government college for Min-
ing Engineers on a military basis,
and contains a fine collection of models
and a noble Mineralogical Collection.
The pupils are about 250 in number,
and dresaed in military uniform. The
collection was commenced in the latter
part of the last century, and its ex-
pense was at first defitiyed out of
certain sums paid by wild Bashkir
tribes. The superintendents of mines
were subsequently ordered to contri-
bute all the most remarkable specimens
of minerals that might be discovered.
In 1816 the mineralogical collection of
Eussia. BoiJUe 1. — St. Petershurg : Mining School,
119
the Hermitage was brought here ; and
in 1823 specimens of gold, and later
of platinum, were added.
The models of mines, and of the
machinery used in working them, are
very interesting. Miners are repre-
sented in miniature going through
the several operations of their craft,
underground as well as "to grass."
The illustrations of copper and other
lodes give a very good idea of those
metalliferous deposits; nor are the
models of the processes of auriferous
sand-washings and workings less in-
structive.
The collection of minerals is the
richest perhaps in tlie world, its only
competitor being that in the British
Museum, which, as a scientific collec-
tion, is more complete in its material
and in its arrangement, although it
does not contain such an accumulation
of the most splendid and costly pro-
ductions of the mineral kingdom. The
specimens of gold are alone worth
nearly 10,000Z., and vast sums have
been spent on the beryls, tourmalines,
topazes, and other sumptuous minerals
of Siberia. The enormous mineral
wealth of the great portion of tlie globe
under the Russian sceptre is lavishly,
although perhaps not very completely,
represented in this national collection.
A very cui-sory inspection of some of
the cases will satisfy the visitor of the
extent of this wealth. A large curled
bar of native gold, and several imggets
and some good crystals of that metal,
are exposed to view ; but the greater
number of the specimens of gold are
preserved in an iron safe. The whole
of these are fi-om the Siberian gold-
fields, especially from those on the
eastern slopes of the Ural ; except a
few specimens from the quartz-veins
of the neighbourhood of Ekaterinburg.
One nugget is valued at above 4000Z.
A platinum nugget of ten pounds, and
a smaller one, may be seen by the side
of the gold specimens, and among the
oth^r treasures of the collection may
}ye mentioned the following :—
A mass, weighing 67 Russian pounds,
of the rare mineral petzite, composed of
feilver and the rare element tellurium,
from near Barnaul in the Altai chain.
A very large mass of native copper
from the Kirghiz Steppes.
A monster crystal of topaz of a
yellow brown hue, given by the Em-
peror, and valued at about 5002.
Another magnificent and equally
unique topaz crystal of the blue variety,
found at Murzinsk in Siberia, of a fine
colour, and with its crystalline planes
well developed.
The beryls from Siberia also form a
magnificent suite, worthy of such a
treasure-house as the Griine Gewolbo
of Dresden. Among these are con-
spicuous a flesh-coloured crystal from
Murzinsk, and on a stand by itself a
large crystal of green beryl, with a
weight of about 5 pounds avoirdu-
pois, and valued at 5000L There are
also several other fine transparent
crystals of aquamarine, and of the
most precious variety of the beryl, dis-
tinguished by its colour as the eme-
rald ; the crystals from Ekaterinburg
in this collection are extraordinarily
fine, and although rarely so clear and
limpid as those from New Granada or
Peru, they far excel them in the size
which their crystals attain.
The tourmalines, and especially those
of the rose-coloured variety of this
mineral termed Rubellite; which Si-
beria produces in the greatest beauty,
are also a very rich series.
A crystal of the rare and almost
exclusively Russian mineral Phenakite
(a silicate of glucina) is perhaps the
finest known specimen of that sub-
stance, which may be also said of a
specimen exhibited here of the emerald-
green garnet called Ouvarovite. The
Siberian variety of chrysoberyl (an
alurainate of glucina) termed Alexan-
drite (after the Emperor Alexander II.)
is represented by magnificent speci-
mens. This mineral, which is of an
emerald-green in daylight, presents
a lilac or amethystine colour when
seen by the light of a candle.
Among the larger specimens in tlie
galleries of the Corps des Mines atten-
tion may be drawn to a solid mass of
malachite, weighing 29 cwt. ; to a fine
crystal of semi-opaque greyish quartz,
weighing 19 J cwt. ; and to some very
line crystals of Siberian amethysts.
120
Boute 1. — SL Petersburg: Imperial Library, Sect. I.
Among the minerals less conspicuous
for their size or beauty are many of
high value and scarcity, but they pos-
sess an interest almost exclusively for
the scientific mineralogist.
There is a very curious model of a
mine in the garden of the school, and
through its winding passages the
visitor is led by the guides, provided
with lighted tapers, and initiated into
the general character of mining pro-
cesses. Open daily from 10 to 4.
Ticket on application, gratis, on the
premises.
12. The Imperial Pvblic LUfary. —
One of the richest libraries in Europe :
it occupies a building that adorns one
of the best sites in the city, between
tiie Bazaar and the Alexander Theatre,
a short distance up the Nevski Per-
spective. It is open to readers on
ordinary days from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.,
and on holidays from 12 to 3 ; and for
inspection on Tuesdays and Sundays,
when a librarian accompanies the
visitors and explains the various ar-
rangements. The library now contains
more than 800,000 printed vols., and
about 20,000 MSS., in various lan-
guages, modem and ancient.
Itowes its origin to a collection which
once belonged to Count Zaluski, a
Polish bishop, and numbered 300,000
vols. On tlie capture of Warsaw by
8uwaroff, in 1794, the Zaluski library
was transferred to St. Petersburg, and
deposited in the present building, the
construction of which was then ex-
pressly commenced. As the library
grew in extent the building was en-
larged, until it is now three times the
size of the original depository. The
last addition to the building was made
in 1862, when a reading-room, which
only yields in beauty and magnitude
to that of the British Museum, was
constructed, having been much needed
on accoimt of the increasing number
of students who resorted to the library
for reference. In 1854 the reading-
room was frequented by 20,000 per-
sons, and in 1864 the number had
grown to 73,000. The library owes
luch a remarkable result to the ad-
ministration of the late director, Baron
Modesto Korff, who succeeded in ob-
taining a considerable increase in the
government grant for the purchase of
books and MSS., and for bringing the
catalogues into their present useful
condition.
The collection of MSS. is more
particularly important This, as well
as that of the printed books, was
enlarged by further importations from
Poland, and particularly by the valu-
able books and MSS. of Peter Du-
browski, purchased during the early
troubles of the French Kevolution.
The MSS. of the latter collection
chiefly relate to the history of France,
and form an invaluable series. They
consist of letters from various kings
of France and their ambassadors at
foreign courts, reports, secret state
documents, and correspondence of
European sovereigns. These interest-
ing papers were dragged from the
archives of Paris by an infuriated
populace, and sold to the first bidder.
Dubrowski purchased them ; and thus
some of the most valuable of the state
papers of France adorn the library of
St. Petersburg. A volume of MSS.
letters from English sovereigns is ex-
ceedingly interesting. The library and
MSS. of Count H. Suchtelen have been
added ; and the numerous acquisitions
of MSS. during the wars with Turkey,
Circassia, and Persia, have contributed
to form one of the finest collections in
the world. The printed volumes are
catalogued in MS., according to lan-
guage, names of authors, and matter ;
and there is now a catalogue of the
MSS. A list of tlie most curious may
be useful : The Ostromir MS., the
oldest extant Russian manuscript, was
written for Ostromir, an ancient
governor of Novgorod, and is in the
Slavonian character, which bears much
resemblance to the Greek. It contains
the Evangelistarium, or Evangelists, as
read in the Greek Church, and bears
the date of 1056, about 50 years al'ter
Christianity was introduced into Bussla .
A Codex, containing the 4 Evangelistj*,
on purple vellum, and in letters of
gold, is interesting to the theologian.
M. Edouard de Muralt, minister of the
Enssifl. SoiUe 1. — St. Peterahutg : Imperial Library.
121
Eeformed Church, and the learned
editor of an edition of Minutius Felix,
> has published an account of this MS.,
with a facsimile of the character. It
was taken by the Russian troops under
Field-marshal Count Paakewitch, dur-
ing the Bussian war in Asia Minor,
A.D. 1829. For some centuries it had
remained in the convent of St John,
near the village of Jumish Khan, and
was supposed to be the work of the
Empress Theodora. Several charac-
teristic marks denote it to be of the 9th
or 10th centy.; and, if it be really
from the pen of so illustrious a person-
age, we may conclude that it was
written by the Empress Theodora,
wife of the Emperor Theophilus, who
Uved in the middle of the 9th centy.
The characters are clear and accurately
formed ; nor are the contractions nume-
rous. The marginal notes are in let-
ters of silver. Age has altered the
colour of the parchment, which is now
almost black; the gold still retains
much of its original brightness. There
is too the Codex San Germanensis,
formerly appertaining to the celebrated
convent of St. Germains. It contains
the Epistles of St. Paul, and has been
referred lo the 7th centy. Several
Latin MSS. of tlie 5th centy., among
which may be mentioned the 6 books
De Civitate Dei; one of the most
ancient MSS. of the works of Si
Gregory, copied by Paul of Aquileia ;
in the same volume is a letter of Paul
the Deacon, the historian of the Lom-
Ijards, to Adalhard, abbot of Corbie.
The works of Isidore of Seville, 7th
centy. Historia Ecclesiastica tripar-
tita et CoUecta in unum, ex Socrate,
Sozomeno, et Theodorito, in Latinum,
translata a Cassiodoro, Senatore et
Epiphanio. In the first page we read,
" Hie codex hero insula scriptus fuit
jubente sancto patre Adalhardo dum
exularit ibi." Adalhard was abbot of
Corbie in 774. CoUectiones Cassiani,
from the Abbey of Corbie, of the 7th
centy. The works of St. Ambrose, of
tlie 8th centy. ; of Menspus Felix Ca-
) pKjlla, of Cicero, of Columella, of the
i>th centy. ; several religious composi-
tions, and MSS. of various portions of
the Scriptures, brought from a convent
on Mount Athos, chiefly of the 9th
centy.; and numerous richly illumi^
nated MSS. from Byzantium, adorned
with miniatures. The history of £u«
tropins, which M. de Muralt believes
as ancient as the end of the 9th centy. ^
and consequently one of the oldest
extant of the works of that author.
One of the most important additions
to the MSS. is a copy of the Four
Evangelists, purporting to bo written
in the 11th centy., and presented to
the Emperor by the Zograph Monas-
tery, on Mount Athos.
The collection of MSS. is further
enriched by ancient Hebrew and
Karaite MSS. that once belonged to
the Firkowicz family, well-known
Karaite Jews. It is generally ac-
knowledged to be the most unique
collection in the world. It contains
MSS. more ancient than any co-
dexes of similar contents to be found
in the libraries of Europe. At Lcydeu
and Bologna there is only one MS. of
the kind of the 10th centy. ; in France,
there is no Hebrew MS. older than the
11th, and in England none more
ancient than the 14th centy. The
Firkowicz collection, however, con-
tains 25 MSS. earlier than the 9tli
centy., and 20 "written before the 10th
centy. The MSS. on skins, so rare
that even the British Museum pos-
sesses only a single copy, are decidedly
the most ancient of any known. Nor
can mention be omitted of the extracts
from the Koran in the Cufic character,
originally deposited in a mosquo at
Cairo, and brought thence by M. Mar-
cel, member of a French scientific
expedition in the days of Bonaparte.
One of these extracts belongs to the
earlier period of Islamism, and the
rest, of a later date, were probably
used as specimens of Cufic calligraphy.
They may be of great use in the
interpretation of Cufic inscriptions.
The collection of Oriental MSS., re-
cently enlarged by that of Mr. Khani-
koff, a distinguished Eussian Orient-
alist, is very extensive. Two presses
in the MSS. room are filled with the
spoils of the last war with Persia, and
a collection of MSS. of extraordinary
beauty, presented to the Emperor
122
Boide 1. — St. Petersburg : Imperial Library, Sect. I.
Nicholas by the Shah of Persia, is also
to be seen. Among the works of the
early French writers may be men-
tioned, * Les Amours de Rene, Roy de
Naples et de Sicile, et de Jeanne.
Gille de Guy Oomte de Laval, qu'il
epousa en seconde noces,* rich in de-
signs, which, though extravagant
enough, still retain much brightness
of colour. The book concludes with
the following lines, beneath the arms
of Anjouj Naples, and Laval : —
'* Icy sont les amies dessoubs c€ste couronne
Du Berger dessudit et de la Bergeronne."
It is said to be an autograph work of
Rene ; but this may be doubted. The
* Roman de Troye,' from the library of
Charles V., very rich in miniatures
and arabesques. Breviaire d* Amour ;
Jeu d' Amour, very curious; Roman
de la Rose; and the works of Guil-
laume de Guilleville ; a Seneca and
Cicero, with exquisite miniatures, by
John of Bruges; the Works of St.
Jerome splendidly illuminated; the
Missal of Louisa of Savoy, adorned
with 24 miniatures, said to have been
executed under the direction of Leo-
nardo da Vinci.
Among French historical works in
MS. may be. mentioned, *Histoire
de Godefroy de Bouillon,* of the
13th cent.; *De Origine et Gestis
Francorum,' of the 11th cent.; *Les
Livres Historiaux,* of the 14th cent. ;
* Les Chroniques de Jehan de Courcy,'
2 vols, in folio; the original MS. of
the ' History of France' of Du Tillet,
dedicated to Charles IX., and adorned
with miniatures of the kings of France,
&c. There is also a missal here of
great interest to the Englishman, as it
formerly belonged to Mary Queen of
Scots : it is quite perfect, except that
in the illuminations, with which it is
abundantly ornamented, there have
once been numerous coats of arms,
every one of which, from the beginning
of the book to the end, has been care-
fully erased, and the shields left va»-
cant. It is difficult to guess with
what object this has been done, as no
other mutilation is apparent. The
chief interest of this missal lies in
numerous scraps of the queen's hand-
writing which are to be found in it,
breathing, in general, of her unhappy
fortunes; though, it must be owned,
much cannot be said in favour of her
poetry, the exact meaning of which is
not always very clear. Near the be-
ginning is written across the bottom
of the two pages, " Ce livre est a moi.
Marie Reyne, 1553" — the last figure
is very indistinct.
In another page are written the fol-
lowing lines in the queen's hand : —
•• Un coeur que I'outragte martire
Tar Tin raepris on d'un refus
A le pouvoir de feire dire,
Je ne snis pas ce que je fus.
Marie."
In another place, in the same writing,
are these verses : —
" Qui Jamais davanfage eust contraire le sort
Si la vie mVst moins utile que la mort,
Et plutost que changer de mes maus Tadven-
ture,
Chacun change pour moi d'humear et de
nature.
Ma&ie R."
Below these lines the queen has
scrawled a memorandum — " escrire au
Secretare pour Douglas."
In a collection of original letters is
one from Mary to the King of France,
written during her imprisonment, in
which, addressing the king as Monsieur
mon Frere, and signing herself voire
honne Sosur Marie, she speaks of Doug-
las, recommending him to the future
favour of his most Christian Majesty,
whom she at the same time thanks for
his attention to her former request in
behalf of the same person. In another
letter from Fotheringay Castle the un-
happy queen expresses her too well-
grounded fear of never being released
from prison. This collection includes
autographs of Henry VII., Henry VHI. ,
Elizabeth, James I., Charles I., and
his Queen Henrietta, with those of
many distinguished persons: among
others, Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex,
in whose hand are 2 or 3 letters to the
King of France, expressing the deepest
gratitude and devotion to his most
Christian Majesty, and entreating for su
continuance of his favour. Among the
most interesting letters"^^ long ono
123
illustrated by numerous portraits ; the
specimens of writing materials used
at various periods; and the series of
prints, produced by every known
method from woodcuts of the 15th cent,
to the art of photography, will all
arrest the eye of the visitor. The
features of Peter the Great may like-
wise here be studied in 400 various
lithographic likenesses, and particu-
larly in a Tartar costume of the latter
part of the 17th cent. The traveller
will find occupation for days if he be
inclined to inspect with any degree of
minuteness all these literary treasures,
and others too numerous to mention.
A room is appropriated to the reading
of foreign and Bussian newspapers.
Bussia. Boute 1. — Si, Petershurg : Michael Palace,
dated at St. Germains, from Henrietta,
Queen of Charles I., to the Sieur Grig-
non, begging him, if possible, to procure
from the Speakers of the two Houses
and ihe General a pass for herself and
her attendants to enable her to visit
her husband in England, and to remain
with him as long as can be permitted.
The queen expresses her fears that this
pass will be refused, but she reminds
the Sieur Grignon how much she has
the object at heart, and assures him
of her eternal gratitude if he succeeds.
She then offers to make out for the
inspection of the Speakers and the
General a list of the attendants whom
she proposes to bring with her, in order
that the name of any person to whom
they object may be omitted in the pass.
Amongst the letters of French monarchs
are those of Louis XI., Charles VIII.,
Anne of Bretagne, Louis XII., Fran-
cis I., Henry IV., and Louis XIV. A
writing exercise of the latter prince
consists of this liberal maxim —
"Uhommage est deue aux roys; ils
font ce qu'il leur plait." It is re-
peated 6 times, and, as history has
proved, with considerable effect.
In the collection of printed books,
the volumes most interesting to the
traveller are those which relate to
Russia {Boesicd)f in all languages,
ezeept the Bussian. This collection
was formed by Baron M. Korff, and
now contains more than 30,000 works.
The collection of books in the Russian
language numbers 90,000 vols. ; that
of Russian books in the old character,
printed before Peter the Great, is very
interesting, containing, as it does, the
first printed version of the Acts of the
Apostles, Moscow, 1568. Early Euro-
p^n printing is represented by about
11,000 vols., beginning from Gutten-
berg to the year 1521'. These are
partly deposited in a room fitted up
in the style of the middle ages.
Many literary curiosities are ex-
hibited in glass cases. The series of
printed versions of the Bible in all
the known languages of the world is
most complete. Here the traveller may
Hurvey with pride the amazing acti-
vity of English missionaries. The
autographs of historical celebrities,
Bu88ia,—lS6S,
13. Foundling Hospital.- -This esta-
blishment was originally foupded in
1778, as a branch of that at Moscow.
It was transferred to its present site
on the Moika Canal in 1788. The
buildings occupy a space of 26,325
square fathoms. About 6000 children
are annually admitted on the same
principles as at Moscow, and the
average daily number of infantine in-
mates is about 750. A lying-in hos-
pital and a school of midwifery are
also attached. For particulars respect-
ing the management of such institu-
tions in Russia the traveller is referred
to the description of the ]d'oundling
Hospital at Moscow. Admission daily,
on application to the Governor. This
institution is admirably conducted,
and is very well worth the seeing.
14. Michael Palace. — This Palace, or
rather Castle, as distinguished from
the Palace of the Grand Duchess Helen
Pavlovna, stands on the site of the
old Summer Palace on the Fontanka,
which was pulled down by the Emperor
Paul, who built this of granite in its
stead, fortified it as a place of defence,
and dedicated it to the Archangel
Michael. The castle has a more gloomy
exterior than the other palaces of St.
Petersburg, and'lt^ Wun extraordinary
124
Boute 1. — SL Petersburg : Taurida Palace. Sect. I.
stylo of architecture. It is in the form
of a square, of which the four facades
all differ in style one from the other ; the
ditches which originally surrounded it
are now partly filled up and laid out
in gardens, but the principal entrance
is still over some drawbridges. In the
square before the chief gate stands a
monument which Paul erected to Peter
the Great, with the inscription, " Pro-
dedu Pravnuk " (the Grandson to the
Grandfather). Vide " Monuments. "
Over the principal door, which is over-
loaded with architectural ornaments,
is inscribed in golden letters a passage
from the Bible in the old Slavonian
language: "On thy house will the
blessing of the Lord rest for ever-
more."
This palace was built with extraor-
dinary rapidity, between 17&7 and
1801 ; 5000 men were employed on it
daily till finished; and, the more
quickly to dry the walls, large iron
plates were made hot and fastened to
them for a time ; the result was, that
soon after the Emperor's death it was
abandoned as quite uninhabitable; the
cost of building it is said to have been
18,000,000 rubles ; had sufficient time
been taken, it would not have amounted
to six. The haUs and apartments of
the castle are large and numerous. A
fine marble staircase leads to the first
story, and the vestibules and corridors
are paved with beautiful kinds of
marble. The floorings of the saloons
were taken from the Taurida Palace,
because the new ones were not ready.
They have since been restored to their
old places. The room in which the
Emperor Paul met with his tragical end
is now converted into a chapel, after
having been walled up during the two
preceding reigns. The painted ceilings
have considerable interest. In one is
represented the revival of the order of
Malta, and Ruthenia, a beautiful virgin,
with the features of Paul, seated on a
mountain. Near her, the mighty eagle.
Fame, flying from the south in terror,
announces the injustice done her in
the Mediterranean, and entreats the
mighty eagle to shelter her under his
"'ing. In the distance is seen the
'.nd threatened by the waves and
the hostile fleets. In another hall all
the gods of Greece are assembled,
and their physiognomies are those
of persons of the Court The architect,
whose purse profited considerably by
the building of the castle, appears
among them as a fl3ring Mercury.
When Paul, who was a ready punster,
and who knew very well that aU the
money he paid was not changed into
stone and wood, caused the different
faces to be pointed out to him, he re-
cognised the face of the Mercury
directly, and said laughing to his
courtiers, " Ah ! voilk Tarchitecte, qui
voU."
The palace is now the abode of the
School of Engineers, under the direc-
tion of the famous General Todleben,
to whom application must be made to
view it.
15. Taurida Palace, — This was built
in 1783, by Catherine II., and given
by her to Field-Marshal Potemkin
after he had conquered the Crimea and
received the submission of the King of
Georgia. The Empress subsequently
repurchased it. The palace is famous
for the entertainments given there by
the magnificent Prince. Later it was
tenanted by Louisa, the beautiful but
unfortunate Queen of Prussia ; by the
Persian Envoy, Khozro Mirza; and
lastly, in 1830, by Oscar, Crown Prince
of Sweden. The Emperor Paul turned
the entire palace into a barra<3k for his
guards ; but his successor restored it
to its more befitting purpose of a royal
residence. It is now occupied by super-
annuated ladies of the Imperial Court.
The garden is very extensive and well
laid out. The best pictures have been
removed to other collections, and there
remains but little of interest within to
gratify any curiosity beyond that of
viewing the palace built for the favour-
ite of Catherine the Great
16. Arsenal Museum. — Admission
gratis, daily from 11 ^3^ except on
holidays. Tickets lo oi^ obtained
Eussia. Boute l.^St. Peter shurg : Arsenal Museum,
at the Artillery Department, Sergief-
sky street.
This Museum, which is situated
near the Taurida Palace, and opposite
the new Courts of Law, will well re-
pay a visit. In front of the building,
which is that of the " New Arsenal,"
is a long array of cannon, Russian,
Turkish, Persian, and Swedish. A
brass gun of huge dimensions to the
right of the principal entrance was
reduced in length by the extraordi-
nary process of a piece being taken out
of it, and by the remaining parts bein":
welded together. Peter the Great, in
whose reign this was effected, ordered
the statue of the man who conceived
and carried out the project to be cast
in bronze, and it will accordingly be
seen in a recess of the lobby, which
the visitor will enter, and where also
stands a Russian cannon of the 17th
centy. A winding staircase leads to a
gallery of great length, in which the
Museimi is arranged. The sergeant
who will accompany the visitor will
first take him to the left of the stair-
case, and beginning with the cases on
the right-hand side of the gallery will
point out the principal objects of in-
terest in the following order : —
(1.) Case containing military uni-
forms worn by Alexander I., and in a
small case next to it the uniforms of
Peter ni.
(2.) Next to it the huge standard of
the Streltsi troops, made of pieces of
silk sewe^ together and adorned with
many highly original pictures charac-
teristic of that fanatical Kussian prse-
torian band. In the middle of this
flag is a representation of God the
Father holding the last judgment;
over his head is the azure sky of para-
dise, beneath him blaze the flames of
the infernal gulf; at his right hand
stand the just, that is, a chorus of
Russian priests, a division of Streltsi,
and a number of bearded Russians;
to his left the unbelievers and the
-wicked, that is, a tribe of Jews, Turks,
and Tartars, negroes, and another
crowd in the dresses of Nyemtzi, or
Germans. Under each group the
national name is inscribed; and so
also, by those tormented in the flames
125
of hell:— "a Turk," "a German,*
(or foreigner) "a miser," "a mur-
derer," &c. Many angels, armed with
iron rods, are busied in delivering the
rest of the unbelievers, the shrieking
Jews, Mahomedans, and other in-
fidels, to the custody of the devils.
A number of the accoutrements of
the Streltsi lie in the vicinity of this
extraordinary standard, and imme-
diately under it are some primitive
Russian cannon from Old Novgorod.
(3.) Stenka Razin's Stool. This is
one of the greatest curiosities in the
Museimi. The great robber chief of
the Caspian delivered judgment on
this seat, and with the aid of tlie
eight pistols which are set round it,
he generally carried into immediate
execution the verdicts which he pro-
noimced. His stick, studded with
brass nails, likewise a formidable
weapon, stands behind the stool, as an
emblem, probably, of authority. After
committing many horrible depreda-
tions he was at last captured and
beheaded (vide Hist. Notice).
Behind the stool is another standard
of the Streltsi, of the reign of Peter
and John, with a representation of
St George, and, in the vicinity, hal-
berts, maces, partizans, and battle-
axes of the 17th centy.
(4.) The objects next in importance
are the revolving batteries, mounted
on wheels, like ordnance, all of the
17th centy. The one that moves hori-
zontally is composed of brass mortars,
while the "Organ" (No. 1049) is a
machine for firing off 105 pistols simul-
taneously. In tiie neighbourhood of
the other "organs ".is a collection of
halberds, partizans, etc., of the reign
of Alexis, to which epoch the three
breech-loading culverins likewise be-
long.
(5.) The gun, with a mouth almost
square, will be pointed out as the
" Drobovik," or shot-gun, of Peter
the Great. The inscription on this
curious piece of ordnance shows that
it was cast at Olonetz, near the White
Sea, A.D. 1722.
The array of a:(;tnj5^^ on this side
terminates with a row oJM)ld Russian
culverins.
H 2
126
Boute 1. — SL Petersburg: Arsenal MiiseUm, Sect. I.
* (6.) The vehicle to which the notice
of the visitor will now be directed is
** ShuvaloflTs car." It is of a strange
structure, and besides being profusely
gilded is painted bright red. The
elevated seat is flanked by kettle-
drums, and protected from behind by
an allegorical figure holding a spear.
The artillery trophies with which this
car is decorated on every side indi-
cates the purposes for which it was
constructed. Drawn by eight horses,
it bore the banner or standard of the
artillery, which was fixed in front of
the carriage, while the seat was occu-
pied by a drum major, who played on
the two kettledrums. The car is
called after Shuvaloff, who was Gi and
Master of the Ordnance in the reign of
the Empress Elizabeth. There ap-
pears no foundation for the assertion
that Suwaroff harangued his troops
from it.
(7.) The automaton drummer at the
end of the gallery was brought from
Riga. Probably of the reign of Peter.
History unknown.
^ (8.) At the upper part of the gallery
is a very large collection of the helmets
*nd accoutrements that belonged to
the Holstein troops of Peter III. On
one of the drums will be seen the
inscription —
« QeschickUchkelt und Glflck
Ma^het deii Konig."
In a case near are the military
sashes, Russian and foreign, worn by
Peter III., and the four small cannon
are likewise his.
(9.) The two mounted horsemen
represent the bodyguard of the Em-
press Elizabeth. The man in European
armour is mounted on a Kirghiz
horse, while the other will easily be
recognised as a Chinese cavalier. They
both preceded the carriage of the
Empress on state occasions. Close to
them is a suit of black armour, wora
in the funeral procession of the same
sovereign.
(10.) Stand 1112 holds pistols,
swords, and other weapons of the
j^ign of the Empress Anne. Opposite
a cannon with seven chambers,
dated 1750. Her colours and a brass
howitzer stand near.
(11.) Arms, &c., tempo Peter the
Great,
(12.) On the top of a glass case
near tiie window is the hat worn by
Peter the Great at Poltava; beneath
are his sword and other accoutre-
ments.
(13.) Case 102 contains the white
leather coat which the Tsar wore at
Saardam, and in case 101 is a leather
garment which he sometimes wore
under his military dress. In the same
case are several uniforms.
(14.) Among Peter the Great's relics
will be found Sie cabriolet with which
lie measured roads, the number of
revolutions made by the wheels being
shown by the machinery contained in
the box behind. On the lid of this
box is a curious old picture, represent-
ing Peter's mode of travelling. It is
a drawing of the cabriolet itself,
drawn by one horse, and driven by
Peter. Behind him are newly-built
houses and gardens, laid out ; before
him a forest and a wilderness, to the
annihilation of which he is boldly
proceeding ; behind him the clouds
are serene, before him the clouds are
heaped up like rocks. As tliis picture
was probably designed by the Tsar
himself, it shows what he thought of
himself.
(15.) A curious revolver of large
dimensions, made by order of Peter
the Great. It stands opposite to a
picture on glass of the battle of Pol-
tava.
(16.) A case of uniforms, being
those of the several military ranks
through which Peter passed as private,
captain, and colonel. No. 74, is the
identical coat he wore at Poltava.
(17.) The stand No. 1856 holds the
key of the fortress of Derbent, surren-
dered to Peter's troops. Guns and
colours of the same period will be seeu
in the immediate vicinity.
(18.) The case which will be reached
next, and which will be found close to
the top of the staircase, contains,
among other uniforms and some colours
of the militia of 1812, the uniform iu
which Geneiral Miloradovitch waa
Bodsia. Boiiie 1. — St, Petersburg : Arsenal Museum.
127
shot during the rebellion that broke
out at St. Petersburg, on the 14 th
Dec. 1825. The hole made by the
bullet that pierced his heart is to be
seen.
(19.) In the case at the window
(No. 1850) is a cast from the face of
the great Suwaroff.
The gallery is in this part decorated
with Russian weapons and armour.
(20.) Chinese and Japanese war-
riors. Next to these are accou-
trements, guns, and colours tempo
Catherine II., and her portrait.
(21.). In a small case near (No. 238)
the cross of the Kussian military order
of St. George, presented to tne Em-
peror Francis I. of Austria by Alex-
ander I., in commemoration of the
allied campaign of 181^1815, and
returned after his death.
(22.) Case No. 9. Uniform, &c., of
Frederick the Great. Collection of
foreign swords.
(23.) A row of captured cannon, &c.;
1 , Prussdan ; 2, Swedish (with a saddle
and spurs said to have belonged to
a king of Sweden, and found in Biga) ;
3, Turkish : shields, pasha's tails, and
the brass cupolas of mosques, taken at
Bender and Ismail in 1786; 4, Per-
sian, with a mountain gun on a saddle ;
Persian uniforms taken in 1826. Can-
non from Biga, and French, Portu-
guese, Italian, and Bavarian ordnance ;
and lastly, Polish guns in the comer.
(24.) At this extremity of the gallery
is a bust of Alexander I. Behind it
and on each side are regimental colours
of the reign of Paul.
(25.) 12 brass field guns, presented,
as showtL by the inscriptions on them,
to the Emperor Alexander I. by Gus-
tavus Adolphus, " not as trophies, but
in token of friendship, in the war of
1807." They were cast in 1779.
(26.) " Musket Battery.*' A very
curious park of artillery, consisting of
16 pieces, presented to the Emperor
Nicholas by the King of Denmark in
1853. Eight of these diminutive guns
have 3 clmmbers, and the rest have
only one small bore. .
(27.) The visitor will come next to
the 2 cases containing the military
costumes of the Empress Catherine JI.
Next to these, in 3 cases, are the
uniforms, &c., worn by the Emperor
Nicholas. Behind them are full-length
portraits of Alexander I. and Nicho-
las I., and in the comer the " drojky "
which the Emperor Alexander I. drove
through France and Germany during
the campaign of 1812-1^15. Opposite
is a portrait of Paul I.
(28.) A steam gun, No. '^, in-
vented by General Karelin, in reign
of Nicholas I.
(29.) Two horses of Catherine II.
stuffed. The Empress rode the white
horse astride when die entered Peters-
burg to take the throne on the 28th
June, 1762. {Vide Princess Woron-
zow Dashkoff's Memoirs.)
(30.) Cases containing orders of
knighthood, &c. : 1, orders worn by
Nicholas I.; 2, decorations worn by
Alexander, jewel, star, and garter of
the Order of the Garter ; 3, swords, &c.,
that belonged to Alexander I. The
visitor wiU be struck by the great
number of orders here preserved as
those worn by Alexander I. The broad
ribbon of the Bussian Order of St.
George is not among them. The Em-
peror would not accept it, although it
was decreed to him several times by
the Chapter of the Order and the
senate. This order is only given for a
great battle won, for the preservation
of the empire, or for the restoration of
peace by a series of military exploits ;
and the Emperor, who could not
ascribe any of these deeds to himself
personally, refused the honoiu*, in
order to maintain the credit of the
order and its laws.
(31.) Banner and armour, of which
one black, the other gold, used in the
funeral procession of the Emperors
Alexander I. and Nicholas.
(32.) Having returned to the top of
the staircase, the visitor will tlnd
opposite to it the rocking-horse of the
Emperor Paul; and, lastly, exactly
opposite the top of the staircase, near
the ceiling : —
(33.) A large Bussian eagle, whose
neck, body, and legs are composed
of gun-flints, while the pinions are
sword-blades, and the eyes muzzles
of two black pistols. Having viewed
128 Boute 1. — St. Petersburg : Imperial Caniages, Sect. I.
the rt. on the next floor is another
fine piece of old tapestry depicting
the expulsion of Hcunan from the
Temple, while opposite to it is " Ha-
man imploring pardon of Esther."
The two former are from pictures
painted hy Raphael, and the latter
is the copy of a picture by Le Bruny
painter to Louis XIV., and Director
of the Gobelins manufactory. At the
top of this staircase is the skeleton
of the favourite charger of the Em-
peror Nicholas. The three rooms on
the upper story and their contents will
be seen in the following order; —
this ingenious object, and inscribed
his name in a book which wiU be
handed for the purpose, the visitor
will leave by the same winding stair-
case, not forgetting to give a fee of
50 0. (or 1 rouble if the party be
numerous) to the military cicerone.
17. Museum of Imperial Carriages. —
Admission daily by application on the
premises, end of Stable-street.
The fine collection of carriages con-
tained in this museum should be
visited by every traveller who wishes
to carry* away with him the conviction
that he has seen all the remarkable
sights of St. Petersburg.
Commenced in 1857, the "Historical
Museum of Imperial Carriages" was
finished in 1860. The lower story is
devoted to the travelling and town
equipages of the court, while the upper
flat contains the splendid gala car-
riages of successive sovereigns of
Russia, many of them decorated with
paintings by Watteau, Boucher, and
Gravelot.
The tapestry with which the walls
of the musemn are covered will alone
repay a visit. Most of it is from the
Gobelins manufactory, having been
removed hither from the Taurida
Palace, where the precious webs had
long lain packed up and unused.
There are also a few specimens of
Kussian tapestry made at a manu-
factory founded at St. Petersburg, in
1716, by Peter the Great, but no
longer extant. Around the court-
yard of the musemn are the work-
shops in which the Imperial carriages,
harness, &c., are made and repaired ;
also the stables and offices for the
grooms and other servants attached
to the department of the Master of
the Horse; and altogether the esta-
blishment is on a scale so large and
costly as to be unique of its kind in
Europe.
On ascending the principal stair-
case, the visitor will be struck with
the beauty of the Gobelins tapestry
^presenting the apparition of the
'ross to Constantine the Great ; to
1st Boom. GcbeUns Tapestry. "The
Triiunph of Mordecai," from picture
by Le Brun, and five landscapes, &c.
The furniture is covered with tapestry
bearing the Polish eagle.
Carriages : — Nos. 19 to 27, made at
St, Petersburg by private coach-
builders ; three sedan-chairs, of which
one, surmounted with an imperial
crown, and with small jewelled crowna
at the four comers, was made at the
Imperial Carriage Works for the Em-
press Alexandra Feodorowna in 1856.
Lastly —
2nd Boom. GobeHtis Tapestry, Ara-
besques, vases with flowers, Aurora
(after Guido) ; the Alliance of Love
(also after G. Bent) ; and arabesques
(20 to 22), with border after Baphad.
Carriages : — On rt. (No. 1) : carriage
sent in 1746 by Frederick the Great
to the Empress Elizabeth, restored in
1856. The arms of Bussia are en-
crusted on the panels in imitation
stones, and the imperial crowh which
siurmounts the carriage is similarly
decorated. Seat in &ont for pages.
The Princess Dagmar of Denmark
made her solemn entry into St. Peters-
burg in this carriage, seated next the
empress.
(2.) Four-seated carriage, brought
in 1762 from Paris, restored 1856.
Panels by Boucher. The arms of
Bussia will be seen in the midst of a
group of Naiades. The Princess Dag*
mar rode in this carriage on the occa-
sion of her marriage.
(33.) Phaeton of hiojm gilt, built
Busfiia. Bouie 1. — St. PetertMrg : Invperial Carriages.
129
1856 at the Imperial Works, and used
by high officers of the court at corona-
tions.
(4.) Carriage obtained in 1765 from
Count Orloff, and used by Catherine
II. Panels by Gravelot, a distin-
guished painter of allegories in reign
of Louis XV.
(34.) Caliche brought from Eng-
land in 1795 by Prince Orloff for
Catherine II. Restored 1856. Panels
said to be by Boucher ; on the sides,
Labour, Abundance, Commerce, In-
dustry ; Cupids strewing flowers ; be-
hind, Apollo and the Muses. The
driving-box is upheld by two eagles
richly carved, while the back of the
carriage is guarded by two figures of
St. George and the Dragon. An im-
perial crown, jewelled, on roof.
(30, 31.) Phaetons, like No. 33.
(9.) Carriage purchased 1794. Panels
with cipher of Nicholas I.
(10.) Purchased 1797, and used by
PaulL
On left :—
(8.) Carriage built 1793 by Bouken-
dahl for Catherine II. Restored 1826
and 1856. Arms of Russia on panels
in imitation stones.
(14 to 17.) Carriages made at the
Imperial Works, 1853-1856.
(3.) Carriage purchased 1762.
(12.) Purchased at Paris, 1825, by
Prince Wolkonsky.
(6.) Carriage purchased by Cathe-
rine II. in 1793. Painting by Gravelot.
In front " Venus leaving her bath ;"
on rt. panel, Juno ; on 1., a Shepherd
guarding his flock; and b^nd,
Olympus with Catherine bringing
Peace and Plenty. The interior of
this carriage, and the driving-seat, are
richly decorated with Spanish point.
3rd Boom. rapeg%.— Arabesques
(49 to 51, after Baphael) ; 52, Triumph
of Bacchus {G. Bent) ; 53, Triumph of
Cupid {G. Bent).
Carriages: — On rt. (32). Phaeton
{vide S3),
(5.) Carriage purchased by Cathe-
rine II. in 1796. Panels by Boucher.
Cipher of Catherine with allegories
on doors. On panels, Cupids ; and on
panel behind the carriage, a likeness
of the empress. Two stools in front
for pages.
(13.) Carriage made at the Imperial
Works, 1850.
(11.7 Brought from Paris, 1797.
Panels by Boucher. Allegories with
incrustations of mother of pearl. Paint-
ing remarkably fine.
(7.) Purchased in 1780 by Catherine
II., and used by consort of Nicholas I.
at her coronation. Cipher of the Em-
peror on panels.
On left (41). Sledge for ten people.
(36.) Vis-a-vis presented to Cathe-
rine II. by a Russian general, 1763.
Cupids, very finely painted, attributed
to Boucher.
(47.) Sledge, 1799.
(42.) Sledge for ten persons, pur-
chased of Boukendahl, 1793, for Ca-
therine II. Small sledges for twelve
persons more can be attached to it.
Used by the court in Carnival time,
out of town.
(29.) Phaeton, presented by Count
Bluhm, Danish Minister, to Empress
Marie Feodorowna.
(37.) Vis-a-viSf presented to Cathe-
rine II. by Count P. Tchemisheff, in
1766. Painting and incrustations of
mother of pearl, very fine.
4th Room. Gobelin Tapestry. — Or-
pheus and the Muses (Baphad) ; and
three landscapes.
Carriages :— The greatest curiosity
in this museum is (38) the sledge of
Peter the Great, made entirely with his
own hands. This interesting object is
protected from the influence of time
by a glass case. The trunk behind
the sledge contained the clothes and
provisions of the great Tsar when he
travelled. It will be seen that the
windows are of mica. Alexander I.
caused the sledge to be brought from
Archangel-, where Peter the Great had
left it after a journey from St. Peters-
burg, whither he returned on wheels.
Ajnong the other sledges in this
room, the most remarkable is perhaps
No. 40, "The Masquerade Sledge/'
built in 1764 by Brogantz, an Italian.
It is of very peculiar form, the seat
being composed of a peep-show box
carried by a show-man, A figure ?"
130
Boute 1. — St, Petersburg : Naval Museum. Sect. I.
the dress of a harlequin is placed in the
front ; while another, in the garb of
a Levantine, is between him and the
person driving. Another sledge, pro-
bably likewise used for Carnival pur-
poses, is No. 43, in the form of St.
George and the Dragon, the seat being
formed by the Dragon. The harness
for both these sledges stands close by.
No. 49 is a mechanical Drojky made
in 1801 by a peasant at Nijni-Tagilsk
in Siberia. It has an apparatus behind,
which once recorded both time and
distance, and played a series of airs.
No. 50 is a diminutive brougham pre-
sented by a merchant of Moscow in
1847 to the eldest daughter of the
Emperor Alexander II.*
In rooms leading out of Room 2 is
kept the harness of the State carriages
(No. 1 is the harness for nine horses
of the Consort of Nicholas I., and No.
2, also red and gold, that of the Con-
sort of Alexander II.) ; and in separate
rooms beyond are the State liveries for
about 800 men, and the saddles and
bridles of H. I. M., a set representing
each regimenty used according to the
uniform which the emperor wears at
reviews, &c. In the furthest harness-
room will be seen the lift and the
turn-table by which the carriages are
raised to the second story of the build-
ing, and moved in the direction of
their proper place in the museum.
It should be remembered that these
magnificent carriages and trappings
are used at each coronation at Moscow,
whither they have to be carried care-
fully packed up.
Lastly, the staircase beyond Room
4 (by which the visitor will some-
times leave) is decorated with tapestry
of which only 61, "The School of
Athens," and 62, arabesques, are from
the Gobelins looms; the rest are
Russian, viz. (60) " Juno in her Car,"
(63) "America," and (64) "Asia."
Within the spacious court of the
museum are the Imperial Stables, hold-
ing, in winter, more than 300 horses.
The new stables opposite, built in
1868, contain about 150 saddle-horses,
which, like the carriage-horses, are in
^ For description of other curious and his- I
al c^Iages, viae *• Treasury," Moscow. ]
siunmer dispersed over the various im-
perial residences. The stables may be
seen on application to the officer in
charge. They will give the visitor an
idea of the lavish magnificence of the
Russian Court, as the sum expended
in feeding the horses alone cannot be
far short of 10,000^. per annum.
18. Naval Museum, — (Gpen Tues-
days, Thursdays, and Saturdays from
10 A.M. to 2 P.M.) This will be found
in the Admiralty building, under the
archway, over which rises the con-
spicuous gold spire surmounted by a
ship under full sail. To naval men in
particular the museum will be of great
interest, as it contains a varied collec-
tion of naval models, including also
those of the Russian iron-clad .fleet.
Besides these, there are many naval
curiosities, mineralogical and ethno-
graphical specimens, many portraits
and sea views, carvings of figure-
heads, &c. There are also full-sized
figures of Russian sailors of the time
of Peter the Great, and of the present
Eeriod, and the flag of a British war-
rig taken at Archangel in 1 810. The
collection, replete with interest, occu-
pies two large halls.
19. Agricultural Museum. — Open
on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fri-
days from 12 to 4, and on Sundays
from 1 to 3; admittance, 20 cop.
This is established in a large riding-
school close to the Winter Palace.
It should be visited if the traveller
has time. Here the different pro-
cesses of agriculture employed in Rus-
sia may be studied, as weU as the
produce of its various provinces, very
prettily arranged. It is under the
patronage of the Department of Do-,
mains and of the Agricultural Society.
20. The Smolni Church and School.—
A long ride will bring the traveller
to the '* Institution dea Demoiaelleg
Eussia. Boute 1. — St, Peterd)urg : Nevski Monastery.
131
Nobles," at the end of Voskresenski-
street, situated on a gentle elevation,
round wliich the Neva bends to the
west, and not far from the Taurida
Palace. This structure, originally a
convent, is a vast pile of building, de-
signed by Count Eastrelli in 1748, and
finally opened in 1834. The church is
of white marble, with 5 blue domes
spangled with golden stars; and the
interior is an exception to the sur-
charged style of every other in St.
Petersburg ; its walls of stainless white
being unpolluted by flag, banner, or
trophy that tells of strife and blood.
A high and beautifully designed iron
grating, of which tlie rails, or rather
pillars, are wound round with wreaths
of vine-leaves and flowers in iron-
work, suri-ounds the court-yard, and
above it wave the elegant birch and
lime. This edifice may be seen from
the eastern suburb, from the extremity
of Voskresenski-street, a mile and a
half in length, and from all quarters
of the city, its elevation being 335 ft.
On eitlier side of the ch. is the Insti-
tution des Demoiselles Nobles, a build-
ing dedicated to the education of young
girls of noble and citizen birth, of
whom not fewer than 400 are here
brought up. The Empress Maria, wife
of Paul, the foundress and benefac-
tress of the school, has a simple monu-
ment in the ch. dedicated in her
honour to St. Mary. A home for
widows is attached to this establish-
ment.
21. Monastery of St, Alexander
Nevslit. — This is one of the most cele-
brated monasteries in Russia— a Lavra,
that is, the seat of a Metropolitan, and
inferior only to the Lavra of the
Trinity in Moscow, and to the Lavra
of the Cave in Kief; other monastic
establishments are only ^^monaetirs"
Its proper name is Alexander Nevskaya
Sviato&oitdkaya Lavra (the Alexander
Nevaky's Holy Trinity Lavra). It
stands, as the* traveller will have no-
ticed in his drive, at the extreme end
of the Nevski Prospekt, where it occu-
pies a large space, enclosing within its
walls churches, towers, gardens, and
monks' cells. The ch. and convent
were foundeJ by Peter the Great in
honour of the canonized Grand Duke
Alexander, who, in a great battle
fought on this spot, defeated the
Sw^es and knights of the military
orders, a.d. 1241; his remains were
brought here with much pomp by
Peter from Wladimir. The ch. and
monastery were originally built of
wood, in 1712 ; but stone was substi-
tuted some years after. Peter's suc-
cessors increased the possessions and
buildings of the cloister, and Catherine
built the Cathedral, one of tiie largest
chs. in the capital. For the decoration
of the interior, marble was brought
from Italy, precious stones from Siberia,
and pearls from Persia. It is further
adorned with some good copies after
Guide, Rubens, and Perugino; the
altarpiece, the Annunciation, is by
Raphael Mengs.
On two great pillars opposite th^
altar are portraits of Peter the Great
and Catherine II., larger than life.
The shrine of Alexander Nevski is of
massive silver, and, with the • orna-
ments around it, weighs aboqt 3250 lbs.
of pure metal ; the design is pyramidal,
15 ft. high, surmounted by a cata-
falque, and angels as large as life,
with trumpets and silver flowers ; also
a quantity of bassi-rilievi, representing
the deeds of tlie Saint. The keys of
Adrianople are suspended near the
tomb.
The Nevski cloister has profited by
the presents sent from Persia when the
Russian ambassador Griboyedoff was
murdered in Teheran. The Persian
gifts consisted of a long train of rare
animals, Persian webs, gold stuffs, and
parls. They reached St. Petersbm-g
in the winter. The pearls, and gold-
stuffs, and rich shawls were carried in
large silver and gold dishes by mag-
nificently dressed Persians. The Per-
sian prince, Khosra Mirza, drove in an
imperial state equipage with 6 horses ;
the elephants, bearing on their backs
towers filled with Indian warriors,
had leather boots to protect them from
the cold, and the cages of the tigers and
lions were provided with double skins
of the northern polar bear. A portion of
H 3
132
Boute 1. — St, Petersburg : Churches.
Sect. L
the pearls were given to this monas-
tery, which also has a rich collection of
mitres set in jewels, pontifical robes of
gold brocade, and souvenirs of indi-
vidual metropolitans and princes;
among them an episcopal staff turned
by Peter the Great, and presented by
him to the first metropolitan of St.
Petersburg; another of amber, from
Catherine II. ; and a number of other
valuables which, found elsewhere,
singly, would be admired and described,
but here, in the mass of treasures, are
unnoticed. The crown of St. Alexander,
and the bed on which Peter died, are
among the most interesting objects.
The Library, of about 10,000 volumes,
independently of a number of very
valuable manuscripts, contains many
rare specimens of the antiquities of
Russia.
The small chapel attached to this
convent contains the tombs of several
illustrious Russian families; that of
the Naryshkins bears the following
inscription : — " From their race came
Peter the Great." Here are also the
tombs of Suwaroff (a plain marble
tablet); Rumiantsoff; the chancellor
Bezborodko; Betskoi, the favourite
minister of Catherine II. ; Panin, her
minister for foreign af&iirs, &c. ; and
of numerous members of the imperial
family. In the cemetery attached to
the building many of the great Russian
families bury their dead, and large
sums are paid for permission to repose
in this holy ground. The graves are
consequently very close together, and
the new ones generally covered with
flowers, a pleasing trait of feeling
frequently seen on the Continent.
The anchor at the foot of the cross, a
favourite emblem, is placed above
many of the monuments. There are
between 50] and 60 monks here who
superintend an ecclesiastical academy.
The service is well performed at this
monastery, and, being a fashionable
church, the singing is good. The
Emperor is generally present at a mass
celebrated on the 30th August, O.S.
22. Preohrajemky Church. — This ch.,
\e *' Spass PreobrajensM Sober," be-
longs to one of the oldest regiments of
guards founded by Peter the Great, and
is one of the most considerable of the
city, and more than any other adorned,
both without and within, with trophies
from conquered nations; consecrated
1754 ; rebuilt 1827. The railing that
surrounds the churchyard is formed of
Turkish and French cannon. Around
the cannon chains of different thick-
ness, gracefully twined, are hung like
garlands between the columns ; on the
summit of each is a Russian double
eagle of iron, with expanded wings.
Within the ch. is adorned with flags
and halberds; the pillars look like
palm-trees, of which every leaf is a
lance. Here travellers are also shown a
production of Russian inventive talent,
the work of a common peasant. It is
a large splendid piece of clockwork,
made by him in his native village,
bought for lOOOZ. by his lord, and
presented to the ch. Some baldaquins
— canopies used in the funerals of the
deceased Tsars — are preserved in this
ch. with the veneration with which
Russians delight to hand down to pos-
terity every relic of departed royalty.
23. Church of the Holy Trinity.—
Near the Warsaw rly. stat. Conse-
crated in 1835, and attached to the
Semenoff regiment of Guards. Its
cupola is of a dark blue colour, be-
spangled with stars. Among the
trophies in the interior is a boat flag
of the * Tiger,' wrecked on the coast of
the Crimea, and another which fell
into the hands of the Russian troops
in a boat engagement at Gamle-
Karleby, during the allied naval ope-
rations in the Baltic.
24. Soman Catholic Churches.— The
principal ch., which is in the Nevski, is
a most graceful building, with a finely
proportioned dome and slander Co-
rinthian columns. In the interior is
a tablet of white marble edged vnth
black, which bears the nameof Moreau,
and tells of the brilliant achievements
Enssia. Boute 1. — Si. Petersburg : British Factory.
133
and sad fate of the conqueror of Hohen-
linden.
The second ch., within the building
of the **Page School," opposite the
Bazaar, is of some interest, having
been buQt by Paul when he became
Grand Master of the Order of the
Knights of Malta. It is in the style
of the old churches of the Knights of
St. John, and still contains the chair
on which the Emperor sat as Grand
Master. This ch. is fashionably at-
tended, and the singing is particularly
good.
The Duke of Leuchtenberg, Consort
of the Grand Duchess Marie Kicola-
evna, lies buried there.
25. Eussia C&mpany, British Fao-
lory, and CJuipel, — A brief sketch of
the intercourse between England and
Russia may here prove of Interest. The
earliest mention in history of any
connection between the two countries
is about the year 1070, when Gyda,
the daughter of Harold, was given in
marriage by the King of Denmark to
Wladimir, Grand Ihike of Muscovy.
Embassies between Russia and the
countries of the Continent were first
exchanged in the 15th centy., and
about this time the English Court ap~
pears to have begim to notice Russia.
Henry Stafford, Earl of Wiltshire, and
Baron Fitzwalter appeared in Russian
dresses at a fancy ball given in the
Parliament Hall at Westniinster A j).
1510.
The trade with Russia had long
been in the hands of Flemish and
Lithuanian merchants, when our more
enterprising merchants began to devise
means of getting the furs, wax, hemp,
and flax of Muscovy more cheaply and
expeditiously than by way of the
Hanseatio towns. Adventurous spirits
even contemplated reaching India
through the Russian dominions. Se-
bastian Cabot, bom at Bristol in 1477,
conceivefd the design of reaching India
and China by sailing northwards
round Norway, and by his exertions
was formed " The Mystery, Company,
and Fellowship of Merchant Adven-
turers for the Discovery of Unknown
Lands, &c." In 1553 three ships were
fitted out by this company under the
command of Sir Hugh Willoughby
and Richard Chancellor. Sir Hugh
with two of the vessels entered a bay
on the coast of Lapland, where he
perished miserably with his com-
panions — frozen to death. Richard
Chancellor in the * Edward Bonaven-
ture,' having been separated &om the
other ships in a storm, entered the
White Sea alone, and reached the
mouth of the Dwina. Having ascer-
tained that the country which they
had discovered was " Russia or Mus-
covie," he declared to the astonished
fishermen that they were " English-
men sent into these coasts from the
most excellent King Edward VI.,
having from him in commandment
certain things to deliver to their King,
and seeking nothing else but his
amitie and friendship, and trafiQque
with his people, whereby they doubted
not but that great commoditie and
profit would grow to the subjects of
both kingdoms." The fishermen, hav-
ing understood, it is to be presumed
by signs, the object of the expedition,
" heard those things very gladly, and
promised their aid and furtherance to
acquaint their King out of hand with
so honest and reasonable a request."
John the Terrible was then Tsar, and
in the zenith of his power and glory
as conqueror of Kazan and Siberia.
He received Chancellor, and the two
merchants, Burton and Edwards, who
accompanied him, very graciously, and
entertained them at a feast of great
splendour. In compliance with Chan-
cellor's request that the establishment
of commercial relations might be per-
mitted between England and Russia,
a letter was despatched by the Tsar to
King Edward assuring him that " his
shippes and vessels may come as often
as they please;" "and," wrote the
Tsar, *' send me one of your Majesties
councill to treat with us, whereby
your countrey merchants male with all
kind of wares, and wheare they will,
make their market in our dominions,
and there to have their free market
wil^ all free liberties through my
134
B&uie 1. — St Peter^rg : British Factory, Sect. I.
whole dominions, and goe at their
pleasure, without any lett, damage, or
impediment, acoordmg and by this
our lettre."
This letter found Queen Mary on
the throne : and on the 26th Feb.
1555, a new CJompany was formed in
London by special charter of Philip
and Mary, conveying the exclusive
privilege of trading with Bussia.
Chancellor returned to Moscow in
1555 with a reply from Philip and
Mary. Two merchants, George Kill-
ingworth and Eichard Say, went with
him, and remained there as commer-
cial agents. The Tsar then gave the
Company a charter to trade through-
out his dominions without paying any
taxes ; on the strength of which the
Bay of St. Nicholas, where the English
ships had first anchored, soon became
an important place of trade. In 1556
Chancellor left Russia with 4 heavily-
laden ships and an ambassador from
John the Terrible, Nepeya by name,
with a suite of 16 persons. A storm
scattered the ships, and only one
reached London in safety. The * Ed-
ward Bonaventure' parted from her
anchors on the coast of Aberdeenshire
and was wrecked, by which Bichard
Chancellor with his son and? Bussians
were drowned. The ambassador, saved
almost by a miracle, proceeded to
Edinburgh and thence to London,
where he was received with great
pomp in 1557. Voyages and embassies
now became frequent.
At first the trade was most prosper-
ous, but the English merchants began
to quarrel amongst themselves, and
had many complaints against the
Tsar's officers. In 1567 Queen Eliza-
beth granted a new charter to the Com-
pany, and stipulated with the Tsar that
none but English ships should be em-
ployed in the trade. The Company had
a right to seize any foreigner attempt-
ing to reach India, Persia, or China by
way of Bussia, and to confiscate his
goods. The merchants obtained permis-
sion to smelt down foreign dollars and
to stamp them anew as current coin.
Under such advantages they seized all
'"6 most important commercial centres
Bussia. They had an agency at
Moscow, a factory at Holmogory (at
the mouth of the Dwina), and depots
at Novgorod, Pskof, Jaroslaf, Kazan,
Astrakhan, Kostroma, &c., where they
sold their goods at 200 and 300 per
cent, profit. The people complained
of their proceedings, and the Tsar ex-
pressed his displeasure to Mr. Thomas
Bandolph, ambassador in 1569. The
English, on the other hand, retorted
that they were fast being ruined by
the execution of so many of their
debtors. They had certainly much to
contend with — civil commotions, pesti-
lence, and famine : their house at Mos-
cow was destroyed by the Tartars in
1571, when about 15 English men and
women perished in the flames.
John the Terrible made an over-
ture for the hand of Queen Eliza-
beth, and wished to enter into a
treaty to the effect that "she would
be kind to his friends, but hostile
to his enemies, and he would be the
same to hers." The Queen was to
allow persons skilled in shipbuilding
and navigators to come to Bussia, to
permit a^illery and other warlike
stores to be sent from England; and " it
was to be ratified by oath between her
and himself that either sovereign
might take refuge in the country of
the other in case disturbances in their
own realm should compel them to do
so." Queen Elizabeth merely thanked
John the Terrible for this manifesta-
tion of good-will, and proposed in 1581
that he should marry Lady Mary
Hastings, daughter of the Earl of
Huntingdon. The Tsar*s envoy re-
ported that the lady in question was
30 years old, " tall, well-built, though
thin," that she had " a clear com-
plexion, grey eyes, red hair, a straight
nose, and long fingers." The lady
was at first not averse to themarriage»
but slie soon asked the Queen to spare
her; "for being," Hume says, "in-
formed of the barbarous manner of
the country, she wisely declined pur-
chasing an empire at the expense of
her ease and safety." In return for
the hand of Lady Mary the Tsar
had promised most important privi-
leges to the Company, but the mer-
chants were soon after informed by
Eussia.
BcnUe 1. — St. Peter^rg : British Factory,
185
the boyars that ** their English Tsar
was dead/* .
The Tsar Boris Godunoff (a.d. 1598),
although favourable to the English
trade, refused to renew those exclusive
privilegesr which it had enjoyed, and
other nations were allowed* to partici-
pate in the commerce of the coimtry.
In 1646 the native merchants com-
plained that the English " were ruining
them by their exactions, " and the fol-
lowing year the Tsar took advantage of
the civil wars in England, and, con-
demning the people "who had put
their Charles to death," closed all the
ports against them with the exception of
Archangel. CromwelFs envoy was not
admitted by the Tsar, who subse-
quently corresponded with Charles II.
when the latter was in exile. At the
Restoration the Earl of Carlisle was
sent to ask for a renewal of the ancient
privileges of the Russia Company, but
iiis mission was unsuccessful.
Another class of Englishmen began
to visit Bussia about this period. These
weieofScers, mostly Scottish, who were
then seeking their fortunes in almost
every country in Europe. The most dis-
tinguished of these was Patrick Gor-
don, who, imder Colonel Crawfurd,
assisted in forming the first regu-
lar Foment that Bussia posses^.
About 40 English officers were em-
ployed in drilling the soldiers who
saved Peter the Great by discomfit-
ing the unruly Streltsi. The next
;?reat event in ^e intercourse between
Bussia and England was the visit
of Peter the Great to London, for an
account of which the traveller is re-
fcriBd to History. We may mention
here, as an interesting fact in connec-
tion with Peter the Great's visit, that
his boon companion in London, Lord
Peregrine, Marquis of Carmarthen,
obtained by ukaz dated 16th AprU,
1698, the exclusive right of supplying
Bussia with tobacco. In the reign of
Catherine II. English naval officers
came over in considerable numbers to
I enter the Bussian navy. Many of
their descendants are at present in the
d .'rrice of the Bussian crown. In the
r»ign of the Emperor Paul an em-
bargo was laid on British shippmg in
the expectation of a war with England,
which liappily never arose until in
1854 it became necessary to maintain
by arms the integrity of the dominions
of the Sultan.
The British factory, in the mean
while, originated at Archangel in
1716, when the English merchants at
that place embodied themselves into a
company, and fixed a rate on goods
imported and exported and a port-
charge on British ships. They at the
same time applied for a minister of tlie
Church. Until the trade was removed
to St. Petersburg by Peter the Great
it was the practice of the Factory to
reside at Archangel during the sum-
mer and at Moscow in winter, having
a chapel at both places and taking
their minister with them. The Factory
removed to St. Petersburg in 172ii.
The principal objects which from tho
first engaged the attention of the
Factory were the maintenance of
the Church establishment and tlie
regulation of charges on British ships
and goods. In 1753 the Factory bought
with their own funds, assisted by
voluntary contributions, their present
church premises on the English Quay.
A treaty of commerce, signed betweeij
Great Britain and Bussia in 1766,
having expired in 1787, 6 members
of the Factory left the corporation and
traded separately as '* Foreign Guests,"
a denomination established by the
Bussian Municipal Code of 1785. " The
Factory continued to exist neverthe-
less, but only as a Committee for the
Management of Church Affiiirs, and,
notwithstanding some tedious disputes
with the Bussia Company, succeeded
in establishing their right to elect a
chaplain and to levy port-charges— a
right which the Bussia Company
asserted only belonged to themselves.
The factory charges fall very heavily
upon British ships, which have thus
been forced to support a church for the
almost exclusive use of British resi-
dents at St. Petersburg.
The continuance of the charge of
" church money " is an abuse of ancient
custom much complained of, particu-
liirly since the charge has not the
direct sanction either of the Bussia^
136
Boute 1. — St. Peterihurg : Monuments.
Sect. I.
or British Government. Moreover,
the accumulations of the *' Committee
of the Chapel of the British Factory "
are not far short of 35,0002., invested
in Bussian funds — a sum which, with
proper management, and, if necessary,
supplemented by pew rents, would be
amply sufQcient for the maintenance
of the church establishment and the
relief of the British poor. As far as
Great Britain is concerned, both the
Bussia Company and the British Fac-
tory in Bussia have been abolished
by Act of Parliament. On the strength
of an Ukaz of 1807, the greater part of
the members of the Factory became
" Foreign Guests," and continued to
trade as such imtil recent enlightened
enactments removed all the disabilities
imder which foreign merchants had
laboured, and gave them in respect to
their commerce the privileges of
natural-bom subjects of H. I. M.
The British Ambassador was ordered
to leave St. Petersburg 27th Oct. 1807,
and during the continental war, which
lasted until 1812, the British mer-
chants were not permitted to trade.
In 1813 the Russia Company agreed
to contribute 4000Z. towards the repairs
of the chapel, and in 1814 a grant of
5000Z. was procured from Parliament
for the same object. The chapel, re-
built in 1815, is one of the handsomest
places of English Protestant worship
on iiie Continent. The copy of Ru-
bens's * Descent from the Cross ' over
the altar was presented in 1815 by
Sir James Riddell, Bart. The pews
are free, and will contain a congrega-
tion of about 600.
The total number of British resi-
dents at St. Petersburg and its vicinity
is estimated at nearly 3000. The ser-
vices at the chapel, on Sundays, com-
mence at the hours of 11 and 4. The
chaplain resides on the premises,
where an extensive circulating library
has also been established.
The American or Methodist Chapel,
supported by voluntary contributions,
is situated near the Post-office.
26. Monuments.
1. The Equestrian Statue of Peter the
Great ranks first among the monuments
of St. Petersburg. It stands opposite
the Isaac Cathedral, in the Adnuralty
Square. It was cast by Falconet, a
Frenchman, but the head wa€ modelled
by Marie Callot. The Emperor is
admirably represented reining in his
horse on the brink of a rock, on both
sides of which, as weU as in frcmt,
steep precipices threaten immediate
destruction. His isuce is turned to-
wards the Neva, his outstretched
hand pointing to the result of his
thought and wiU; while a serpent,
emblematical of the difficulties which
Peter encountered, is trodden under
foot by the spirited charger. The
whole is wonderfully balanced on the
hinder legs and the tail of the horse,
into which a weight of 10,000 lbs. has
been thrown.
The hugh block of granite which
forms the pedestal, and weighs 1500
tons, was brought from Lakhta, a
Finnish village, 4 m. from St. Peters-
burg, and may have been torn by the
Deluge from the Swedish mountains ;
it was originally 45 ft long, 30 ft.
high, and 25 ft. in width; but in
cutting it the mass broke in two pieces,
which were subsequently joined. It
is now only 14 ft. high, 20 ft. broad,
and 43 ft. long; the statue is 17^ ft.
in height. On the two long sides are
chiselled the following inscriptions in
Russian and Latin ; " Petru Pervomu,
— ^Ekaterina Vtoraya.'* " Petro Prime,
Cathaxina Secunda.'' sroocLXZxn.
2. The Jleaeander Column. — ^In the
open space between the Etat Major
and the Winter Palace stands the
greatest monolith of modem times,
the column erected, 1832, to the
memory of the Emperor Alexander I. :
—a single shaft of red granite, which,
exclusive of pedestal and capital, is
84 ft. in height. This beautiful monu-
ment is the work of M. Montferrand,
the architect of the Isaae Church.
The shaft originally measured 102 ft.,
but it was subsequently shortened to
Eussia.
Boute !• — St. Feterf^rg : MonumenU,
137
its present dimensions from a fear tliat
its diameter (14 ft.) was insufficient
for so great a length. The base and
pedestal are also composed of one
enormous block of the same red granite,
of the height of about 25 ft., and of
nearly the same length and breadth ;
the capital measures 16 ft., the statue
of the angel on the summit 14 ft., and
the cross 7 ft., in all 154 ft. 9 in.
Turkish cannon were smelted down
for the capital and the ornaments on
the pedestal. As the whole of St.
Petersburg is built on a morass, it
was thought necessary to drive no
fewer than 6 snccessiye rows of piles,
in order to sustain so immense a
weight as this standing upon so con-
fined a base ; the shaft of the column
alone is computed to weigh nearly 400
tons, and the massive pedestal must
materially increase the tremendous
pressure. The statue was raised in its
rough state, and polished after it was
firmly fixed on its present elevation.
On the pedestal — which, like the
capital, is ornamented with bronze —
is the following short and well-chosen
iiiscription ; — "To Alexander the
First, Grateful Russia." The eye
rests with pleasure on this polished
monument ; and in any other city its
enormous size would make a greater
impression. The inclemency of the
climate has considerably injured the
monolith. The frost has produced
several fissures, which have been care-
fully cemented. The polished surface
of the granite exhibits several patches.
3. Mtmdantsoff Obelisk. — On the
VassOi Ostroflf, near the Academy of
Arts, in the middle of a new square.
It was originally erected, in 1799,
on the " Champ de Mars," in honour
of Field-Marshal Bumiantsoff Za-
dunaiski. It was removed to its
present site in 1821, and consists
of an obelisk of black marble on a
pedestal of a reddish marble, orna-
mented with festoons and bas-reliefs.
It is surmounted by the eagle of
Bussia, with extended wings, resting
on a globe, which, together with the
eagle, is gilt. The total height of the
monument is 70 ft. The pedestal bears
the laconic inscription, " To the vic-
tories of Bumiantsoff."
4. Suvjaroff Monument, near the
Marble Palace and facing the Trinity
Bridge. — This is a bronze statue, re-
presenting Prince Suwaroff on foot,
dressed as a Boman, wielding a sword
in the right hand and holding a shield
in the left, in defence, over the crowns
of the Pope, of Naples, and of Sar-
dinia. Erected 1801. The house to
the rt. of the statue is occupied by the
British Embassy.
5. Nicholas Monument, — Between
the Leuchtenberg Palace and St.
Isaac's. An equestrian statue, repre-
senting the Emperor Nicholas in the
uniform of the Horse Guards. The
huge pedestal is formed of granite of
various colours. The bas-reliefs re-
present the principal episodes in the
life of the sovereign, which, together
with the emblematical figures at the
four comers, wQl easily be recognised
by those who have studied the history
of the reign of Nicholas I. The 4 em-
blematical figures have been cast after
portraits of the consort of Nicholas and
of his 3 daughters. ,
6. Equestrian Statue of Peter the
Great, — Erected, as already mentioned,
by the Emperor Paul, with the in-
scription in letters of gold, "The
grandson to the grandfather, 1800."
The pedestal is of marble, and Peter
the Great is represented on it riding
a charger, and dressed as a Boman
general, with a wreath of laurel round
his head, and a baton in his right
hand. It was cast under the reign of
the Empress Elizabeth (whUe Paul
was yet heir-apparent), by Martelli,
an Italian artist. The reliefs on either
side of the pedestal represent the
battle of Poltava, and the taking of
Schliisselburg.
7. Monument to Field-Marshah Bar-
clay de Tolly and Koutovsoff. — Opposite
the Kazan Cathedral. These were
erected in 1836. Barclay de Tolly
beat Vandamme at Culm, contributed
to the victory at Leipsic, and to the
138
Boute 1. — St. Petersburg : Monuments,
Sect. I.
capitulation of Paris ; while Koutou-
Boff was considered the saviour of his
country in 1812. Both statues were
modelled by a Russian sculptor, Boris
Orlofsky.
8. Monument to Sir James Wylie,
Bart. — Erected 1859, in the inner
court of the Imperial Academy . of
Medicine, in recognition of the services
which that distinguished Scotchman
rendered to Russia as President of the
Academy under the reigns of the
Emperors Alexander I. and Nicholas.
The baronet is seated, in full uniform,
holding in his hand the reformed
statutes of the Academy. The square
pedestal is of grey marble, ornamented
at the 4 comers with cariatides of
great size. On three sides of the
pedestal are bas-reliefs representing
various episodes in the life of the
doctor, together with his coat of arms
and those of the Academy.
Respecting the career of Sir James
Wylie, Dr. Lyall says in his ' Travels
in Russia/ " Sir James Wylie, who is
chief of the military division, is one
of the most notorious and most pow-
erful individuals in Russia. ....
Through the interest of the late Dr.
Rogerson he was appointed operator at
the court, and I believe he retained
tliis situation whilst he lived in the
familjr of Count Stroganoff. A new
and important epoch in his life ap-
proached, and the whim of the
Emperor Paul led to his rise in life.
This monarch had raised one of his
lowest attendants to the rank of count,
and had bestowed upon him an ample
fortune in money and property. Count
Kutaisof, for this was the said count's
name, was seized with a violent in-
flammation of the fore part of the neck
that terminated in a large abscess, by
which his excellency endured great
pain and extreme difficulty of respira-
tion. Indeed he was threatened with
suffocation. The patient was attended
by a number of the first medical men
at court, who never thought of the
only means of relief, the opening of
the abscess. In the extremity of the
lisease some friends advised the count
■) send for Dr. Wylie in the middle
of the night. On his arrival this
gentleman opened the tumour, and an
immense quantity of matter was eva-
cuated. In an instant Count Kutaisof
was restored to comparative health.
On the following morning Paul, as
usual, sent to inquire respecting the
count's state, and was astonished at
the above relation. Paul then sent
for Dr. Wylie, and appointed him to
attend the court as physician. After
Count Kutaisofs recovery, and Sir
James Wylie's advancement, it was
jocularly reported that *Dr. Wylie
had made his fortune by cutting
Count Kutaisofs throat* .... After
Paul's death, and Alexander's ascent
to the throne. Sir James Wylie still
preserved his place, and has success-
ively been appointed his majesty's
body surgeon and physician, chief of
the medical military department,
president of the Medico-Chirurgical
Academy, &c., and has had numerous
Russian and foreign orders bestowed
upon him. Besides, he has been
chosen a member of almost all the
learned societies in Russia, and also
of a few in Great Britain and upon
the Continent. In addition to all
these distinctions, after sharing the
dangers and the honours of the cam-
paign of 1812-13, by particular request
of the Emperor Alexander, he was
knighted by the Prince Regent on
board one of his majesty's ships at
Portsmouth, Platofs sword being
used on the occasion. He was also
made a baronet of Great Britain." It
was Sir James Wylie that amputated
Moreau's leg after the battle of Leip-
sic.
27. Markets and Purchases.
The principal market at St. Peters-
burg is called the Gostinnoi-Dvor. It
is situated in the Nevski Perspective,
and was erected between 1755 and
1785.
There is in most Russian cities of
importance, and generally in a central
position, a Gostinnoi Dvor, where all
the more important articles of com-
merce are collectecMfer sale. It is
Eiissia.
Haute 1. — St. Petersburg : Markets,
139
usually a large building, consisting of
a ground floor and an upper floor.
The upper floor is chiefly reserved for
wholesale dealings: the ground-floor
consists of a multitude of shops in
which the various descriptions of mer-
chandise are sold by retail. The
dwellings of the merchants are away
from these markets; and, when the
hours of business are over, each trades-
man locks up his own shop or stall, and
commits the whole building for the
night to the guardianship of l£e watch-
men and their dogs.
The Gostmnoi Dvor of St. Peters-
burg is a colossal building, one side
being in the Nevski Prospekt, and
another in the Bolshaia Sadovaia, or
Great Garden-street, through which,
And some of the adjoining streets,
extend a number of shops and ware-
houses, giving to that part of the town
the appearance of a perpetual fair.
The better description of Bussian
goods will be found in the Gostinnoi
Ihor ; those of an inferior kind in the
adjoining markets, the Apraxin Binok
and the Stchukin Dvor, which lie a
little fiEirther on in the Bolshaia 8a-
dova'ia. Following the last-named
street, which is bordered throughout
its whole length by shops, the stranger
will arrive at an open place, the
Senna'ia Ploschad, or hay-market, the
principal provision-marketofStPeters-
burgh, which is well worth seeing in
winter on account of the odd appear-
ance of the frozen animals and birds
offered for sale.
The lanes and alleys that intersect
these markets are overrun throughout
the day by a crowd of purchasers. In
a city containing half a million of inha-
bitants there must at all times be a
great and urgent demand for a vast
variety of articles ; but there are many
reasons why this should be more the
case in St. Petersburg than in any
other capital. In the flrst place, there
is no other European capital where the
great bulk of the inhabitants, owing
to the system of Customs' protection, if
not prohibition, that prevails, make
use of goods of such inferior quality,
or where, consequently, they have
such frequent occasion to buy new
articles, or to have the old ones re-
paired. Then there is no other capital
where the people are so capricious and
so fond of change. The wealthy Eus-
sians are here one day and gone the
next; now travelling for the benefit
of their health, now repairing to the
country to re-establish their finances
by a temporary retirement, and then
reappearing on the banks of the Neva,
to put their revenues (much dimi-
nished by the Emancipation) into cir-
culation. This consent fluctuation
leads daily to the dissolution and to the
formation of a number of establish-
ments, and makes it necessary that
there should be at all times a greater
stock of all things required for the
outfit of a family than would be
requisite in a town of equal extent,
but with a more settled population.
A Bussian seldom buys anything till
just when he wants to use it, and, as he
cannot then wait, he must have it ready
to his hand. Articles, which in other
countries are generally ordered before-
hand from a tradesman, are here
bought ready for immediate use.
The traveller will resort to these
markets, partly to observe, as he
lounges along the arcades, the cha-
racteristic manners of the dealers, but
principally with the intention of buy-
ing some few articles as presents for
distribution at home. His first object
is commendable, but there is very little
on which he can lay out his money
with advantage and satisfaction in
the markets here described. The only
articles really national and peculiar
to be found there are the embroidered
slippers, cushions, and sashes of Torjok.
These should be purchased at No. GO,
in the centre of the Gostinnoi Dvor,
facing the Sadovaya or Garden-street.
German is spoken, and the prices are
fixed. In other shops a system of
bargaining is pursued which always
leaves the purchaser in doubt whether
he has really paid the minimum value.
Gold brocades are sold in a row of
shops called the Perinny Biad. They
are much used in England for furni-
ture. There are several old curiosity
and picture shops within the Apraxin
Dvor, where old china and many
140
BotUe 1. — St. Peter^rg : Hospitals.
Sect. I.
articles of virtu may be picked up
by those who know the language and
can bargain. Stolen goods of every
description abound in the latter market
Both the Apraxin and the Stchukin
markets were burned down in 1862.
They have since been handsomely re-
built. For purchases of jewellery the
tourist is recommended to the " Eng-
lish Magazine," where by far the best
selection of goods in every depart-
ment wiU be found. The prices are
perhaps a little higher than in other
shops, but the superiority of the
articles and the advantage of speak-
ing English afford full compensation.
Schneegas, jeweller, in Great Morskoy
Street, also keeps a large stock of
malachite and lapis-lazuli ornaments
at moderate prices.
Travellers should visit Sazikof s shop
in tiie Nevsky, famous for silver goods.
Many pretty little articles maybe pur-
chased ^ere for keepsakes.
Circassian belts and ornaments, in
steel and silver, are much in fashion,
as well as Caucasian hoods, of bright-
coloured cloth and handsomely braided.
These are sold in two shops in the Per-
spective, on the left-hand side, a little
beyond the Kazan Cathedral. The
best shop is Hazarof s. Views of St.
Petersburg may be obtained at Daz-
ziaro's, Beggrow's, and at the *• Palette
de Raphael."
28. Hospitals and Medical ADvicne.
The capital is well provided with
hospitals endowed by the State and
supported by contributions. Small
monthly payments are exacted, but
there is a certain number of free beds
in each hospital, to which the poor
have access. The principal hospitals
are: —
1. Obukhoff, founded 1782. This
is a building of 2 stories, with a front-
age of 600 ft, and stands in very spa-
cious grounds of its own. The number
of beds is 450, but there is a special
hospital in connection with it, for pri-
soners, with 200 beds. Fifteen medi-
il men are attached to it
2. Kalinkin, established 1779, and
now appropriated to female syphilitio
3. Marie Hospital, established 1803.
An immense building with 2 wings,
400 beds.
4. " Chemorabochy," or hospital for
workmen. Supported out of a tax of
60 cop. levied on the lower classes in
towns.
In addition to these hospitals, con-
ducted on the most perfect systenis,
are many charitable institutions, such
for instance as the Hospital and Dis-
pensary of the Sisters of Mercy, the
Ophthalmio Hospital, the Hospital of
St. Mary Magdalen, &c.
A medical man will have no diffi-
cfulty in obtaining admission to the
civil and military hospitals of St.
Petersburg.
The average daily number of sick
in the civil hospitals of St. Peters-
burg, during an ordinary season, is
4000. The average mortelity in the
civil hospitals is 1 in 16 or 17. There
is a lunatic asylum, with about 250 '
inmates, a few miles on the road to
Peterhof The practitioners at all these
establishments are mostly German;
and the. mortality, from the weakness
of the constitutions of the patients, and
partly from their imbelief in medical
science, is excessive, compared with
that of other cities. The death-
rate in European Russia is 3*43 per
cent Great mortality has hitherto j
prevailed in the naval and military '
hospitals : at the former the ratio of
deaths to recoveries, in 1857, was 1 in
14}, the surgical operations being more
e3pecially &,tal ,* but a better system
of diet and other improvements have
been introduced with a beneficial
effect. Travellers are warned not to
drink the water of the Neva ; its dis-
agreeable effects are sometimes felt
even when taken in the shape of tea. |
For further medical information, vide
Introduction.
Dr. Carrick, MD., is the physician
to the British Embassy.
DigitizediiiijOOQ IC
Bossia.
Bovie 1, — St. Petersburg : Theatres.
141
29. Theatres.
There are four public Theatres at
St Petersburg: 1, the Great Theatre;
2, the Marie Theatre (both these in
the same square between the Moika
and Catherine Canals) ; 3, Alexander
Theatre, in the Nevski Perspective;
and 4, Michael Theatre, near the
palace of that name : all under the
management of government.
1. The Great Theatre is devoted
during the winter season (with the ex-
ception of Lent) to the Italian opera,
for which one of the best troupes in
Europe is always engaged. The first
gre»t musical work produced inBussia,
Paisiello's * Barbiere di Siviglia,' was
originally performed at St. Peters-
burg in 1780. All the most approved
operas are reproduced here, with much
success. The mise en scene is always
most perfect, and the costumes rich
and true. A very large sum is de-
voted yearly by the government to the
cultivation of the histrionic art in all
its branches, and a large school is
maintained for the education of act-
resses and ballet-dancers. The ballets
liere given ',are very much frequented.
Of these the 'Fille de Pharaon,' the
* Tsar devitsa * or Maiden Tsar, and
the 'Golden Fish' (both the latter
being based on national popular le-
gends), are admirably rendered*. The
best ballets are generally given on
Sundays.
The Great Theatre was originally
built in 1784 ; it was burnt down in
1817, and renovated in 1836. There
are 6 tiers of boxes and 17 rows of
chairs, or room for about 8000 persons.
The prices of the boxes vary from
25 rs. to 5 rs. The pit-staUs of the
first 3 rows are 8 and 6 rs. ; the furthest
are 2 rs. On benefit nights the prices
are considerably raised. Masked balls
on a large scale, frequented by the
£mperor and members of the Imp.
Family, are given here during the
^v-inter season.
2. The Marie Theatre is appropriated
^ tUe Bussian opera and drama. Pro-
fane music has been much cultivated
in Bussia of late years. Bortniansky
was a great reformer of Bussian sacred
music about the year 1780, and Alexis
Lvoff was the first Bussian who com-
posed operatic music. He is the author
of the Bussian National Anthem. The
most remarkable composer, however,
is Glinka,, whose opera of ' Jizn za
Tsaria ' (Life for the Tsar) is admirable
for the correctness of its composition,
and for the beauty of its melodies,
which are all national. The subject
of this very popular opera is the de-
votion of a peasant who saved the Tsar
Michael by leading a detachment of
Poles who were seeking him into a
deep and thick forest, where they all
perished. Verstofsky has written the
music of several vaudevilles, and some
comic operas, of which the best known
is * The Tomb of Askold.' The opera
by Glinka affords an opportunity of
studying Bussian melodies and cos-
tumes, which should be eagerly seized
by the traveller. The " Mazurka," a
Polish dance, much in fashion in
Bussia, is introduced into one of the
acts. Shakspearian tragedies in a
Bussian translation are occasionally
given here. The prices are lower than
at the Great Theatre.
3. Alexander Theatre,' — Here Bus-
sian comedies and dramas are acted.
Griboyedoff*s comedy, * Sorrow comes
from Wit,* a satire on Moscow so-
ciety, and GogoFs ' Bevisor,' in which
the corruption of the old Bussian offi-
cial is weU portrayed, are well worth
seeing for the sake of the acting and
the scenes of Bussian life which they
hold up to view, and which are in
great part intelligible, even in the
absence of a knowledge of the Bussian
language. This theatre was opened
in 1832. It has 6 tiers of boxes and
9 rows of stalls. The prices are very
moderate. It possesses none of the
beauty and magnificence of the two
theatres already mentioned.
4. Michael Theatre, opened in 1833.
French and German plays are per-
formed here in winter by troupes as
good as any on the Continent. A7'
142
Boute 1. — SL Peter f^rg : Clubs; Societies.
Sect. I.
the most popular farces of the Parisian
stage are reproduced here with very
great success.
The Great and Michael Theatres are
generally very numerously attended.
Travellers should apply or send early
for tickets. French spoken at the
box-office. In summer, theatrical re-
presentations are occasionally given
at a theatre on Kamennoi island.
30. Clubs and Beduurants. The
principal club is called the English
Club, because it was founded in 1770
by an English merchant of the name of
Gardener. It is situated on the Fon-
tanka Canal, near the Anitchko£f
Bridge. Admission through a mem-
ber. Very few of the English resi-
dents now belong to it. The club
which is likely to be of most use to
the English traveller is the Commer-
cial Club, on the English Quay, be-
tween the English Chapel and the
Nicholas Bridge. Here travellers can
be inscribed by their bankers or friends
for the whole period of their residence
at St. Petersburg, and enjoy all the
advantages of members. Excellent
dinners and a table-d'hote on *' ex-
change days '* (Tuesdays and Fridays)
are among those advantages. The
'Times* and other English news-
papers are kept in the reading-room.
The Nobility Club, the German or
Schuster Club (so called after the
name of the founder), and the Club of
the Russian Merchants, are large esta-
blishments, where subscription balls
are given during the winter season.
The Agricultural Club, in the No-
bility Assembly-house, combines ad-
vantages of a social and domestic
character with those of a learned so-
ciety, where subjects of rural economy
are formally discussed. The Imperial
Yacht Club, which is the most exclu-
sive, is in Great Morskoy-street.
The summer station of the River
Yacht Club is on Yelaghin Island,
where the large collection of boats and
the building-sheds of the club will
well repay a visit. Vide Drives. The
st Restauranta are Dusaux's, Mar-
tin's, and Borers, in Great Morskoy-
street, and Douon's, at the Singer's
Bridge. Dinners from 1 r. to any
price.
Excellent luncheons may be ob-
tained at Wolft^'s and Dominique's
Restaurants, both in the Nevski Per-
spective,
31. Learned Societies. — Foremost
amongst these is the Imperial Geogra-
phical Society, established in 1845,
and now under the presidency of
H.I.H. the Grand Duke Constantine.
It numbers about 600 fellows, besides
honorary and corresponding members.
Its annual report is published in Rus-
sian. The proceedings of the Society
contain most valuable contributions
to geographical science, especially
with reference to the distant and little-
known countries of Central Asia. The
library is well supplied, and there is
a very interesting ethnological mu-
seum, representing the costumes of the
several races subject to Russia. The
meetings take place only in winter.
Admission on application to the secre-
tary. Among the other societies are
the Imperial Archseological, the Rus-
sian Entomological, the Free Econo-
mical, the Imperial Mineralogical,
and the Historical. There are several
societies of a benevolent character,
and an excellent association called
'* The Society for the Encouragement
of Art," where pictures and other
objects of art, by foreign and native
artists, are exhibited all the year round.
The rooms of this society are at the
Police Bridge, in the Nevsky. Ad"-
mission on payment of 25 copecks.
Very pleasing and characteristic pic-
tures by Russian artists may be bought
there.
32. Private Collections, — Besides the
celebrated Leuchtenberg Gallery, for-
merly at Munich, but now in the palace
of the Duke of Leuchtenberg, which
would require a catalogue by itself
(see Waagen), the private collection of
H. I. H. the Grand Duchess Marie con-
tains several fine pictures by the an-
Sossia. Boule 1. — St. Pet&rtbttrg : Summer Gardens.
143
cient Italian and Spanish masters, as
well as many good specimens by
modem artists. The palaces of the
Russian nobles contain likewise very
valuable €md interesting collections of
art. The Counts Serge and Paul
Stroganoff, who are both distinguished
connoisseurs and lovers of art, possess
pictures which would be considered
valuable acquisitions in any public
gallery. The collection of Count Serge,
which is in the Stroganoff House, a
fine building by Rastrelli, at the Po-
lice Bridge, opposite the " Society for
the Encouragement of Art," contains
amongst other treasures an admirable
head by Leonardo da Vinci, a sketch
by Correggio, 2 excellent portraits by
Tintoretto, 4 Rubens, 2 capital por-
traits by Van Dyck, a beautiful and
highly finished cabinet picture by
Rembrandt, as well as excellent speci-
mens of Teniers, Cuyp, Adrian Van-
develde, Hackert, and Van der Heyden.
The collection of Count Paul Strog-
anoff is worthily lodged in one of the
prettiest houses in St. Petersburg, at
the comer of the Sergiefskaia and the
Mohkovaia, a chef-ni'cevre of elegance
and comfort, built by Monighetti, a
living architect of great taste. The
principal pictures in this small but
choice collection are by Filippino
Liippi (a small but beautiful specimen
of this master), Cima da Conegliano,
HebastiandelPiombo, Rubens, Van der
Heist, Nicolas Maes, Peter de Hoogh,
Adrian Vandevelde, and Ruysdael.
A few doors from Count P. Stroga-
notTa house in the Mokhovaia is the
collection of Mr. Yakuntchikoff, con-
taining some good pictures of the
modem Butch, Flemish, and French
schools ; amongst others, the repetition
of the great picture in the Luxem-
bourg, by Rosa Bonheur. Mr. Dru-
jinin, a wealthy proprietor of mines in
Siberia, who lives in the same street,
has a beautiful sea-piece by Ruysdael,
and some curious specimens of pre-
cious stones and minerals from his
mines. The once celebrated collection
of marbles, bronzes, pictures, and
curiosities of all kinds, which belonged
to Monferrand the architect, is now
dispersed. The collection of Senator
Smirnoff contains some excellent por-
traits: Catherine II., by Lampi; the
painters Largilli^re, Rigaud, and Da-
vid, by themselves; Cosmo I., by
Bronzino; a portrait, by Antonio
Moro ; the Infant Don Fernando, said
to be by Rubens — an excellent por-
trait, most probably by Van Tulden ;
a fine head of a Monk, of the Spanish
school ; and amongst the modem pic-
tures by French artists, a small De-
camp and Gudin.
' The remaining collections of any
note are those of Prince Gortchakotf,
Count Peter Schouvaloff, Count Orlof-
Davydoff, Prince Wladimir, Bariat-
inski, and Doctor Kozlot
33. Summer Crarcfen*.— This is the
Hyde Park of St. Petersburg, and a
favourite lounge of the inhabitants,
especially in spring, before the capital
is deserted for summer residences.
The gardens were laid out in 1711,
and are half a mile in length by a
quarter in breadth. The walks are
well shaded by fine old trees and orna-
mented with marble statues, which
are cased in wooden boxes during
winter to protect them from the action
of the frost. In one comer stands the
Summer Palace in which Peter the
Great dwelt, and for which, in fact,
the gardens were created. It was also
the residence of the Empress Anne ;
and Biren, the tyrannical regent, was
arrested there. A few articles of fur-
niture used by Peter are preserved
inside. Near this house is a hand-
some monument to the memory of
Kryloff, the great Russian fabulist.
The bronze bas-reliefs and ornaments
represent the subjects of his best com-
positions. During the short months
of the Russian summer numerous
groups of prettily dressed children
will be found playing under the
shadow of him who wrote so well for
their instmctioh and amusement. At
the other end of the garden is a
beautiful um of porphyry, presented
by the King of Sweden, and of which
an exact counterpart exists in Her
Majesty's grounds at Balmoral. T^
34. The Exchange and Private
Bankers. — A fine building at the ex-
tremity of VassUi Island, originally
erected 1784, after designs by Qua-
renghi; but entirely rebuilt between
1804 and 1816, by Thomon. The
great hall of the Exchange ia of very
largo dimensions, and is lighted from
above. A colossal bust of Alexander
I. is placed in it. Stately flights of
steps lead from this noble edifice to
the river, and on the open space in
front of it are two massive " Columnse
Rostratffl" above 100 ft. in height,
decorated with the prows of ships, in
honour of Mercury, and each sur-
mounted by three Atlantas that sup-
port hollow globes, in wliich fires are
sometimes lighted. It should be
visited during " change" hours between
3 and 5 p.m. There is an extensive
garden beyond, which is converted in
spring into a market for birds, dogs,
and other early importations on the
opening of the navigation. The Cus-
tom-house is immediately behind.
The bankers' ofiices are situated
near the English Quay. The chief
banking-houses are "St. Petersburg
Joint-stock Commercial Bank ;"
Messrs. Thomson, Bonar, and Co. ,*
and Messrs. Wyneken and Co. Busi-
ness hours, 10 to 4.
144 Boide l.-St. Peieriimrg : Exchange; Post Office. Sect. I.
handsome iron railing fronting the
Neva was put up in 1784, after a
design by Velten, then Director of the
Academy of Arts. In former days
the sons and daughters of Russian
merchants and tradesmen, dressed in
their best apparel, assembled in these
gardens on Whit-Monday to choose
partners for life, but the custom is now
almost obsolete. The large square
alongside is called the ^'Tsaritsin
Lug" or Empress* Field. Reviews are
held there.
At the entrance of the garden,
facing the Quay, a Chapel dedicated
to St. Alexander Nevsl^, marks the
spot where the Emperor Alexander II.
stood when his life was attempted
by Karakozoff, in 1866. The text in
letters of gold over the principal por-
tico is "Touch not mine anointed."
The chapel was raised by public sub-
scription, and is therefore a monu-
ment of the love and sympathy of the
Russian people.
Steamers leave from opposite the
summer gardens for the several islands
of the Neva.
35. Post and Telegraph Offices, —
These are almost contiguous, in Poteh-
tamsky-street which runs off, and is
partly parallel with, the boulevard
that extends from the Nicholas Bridge
to St. Isaac's. Letters for England
and the Continent must be posted
early in the morning. Delivery about
3 P.M. The postage to England is 26
cop. via Belgium, and 29 cop. via
France, or lOd., and 10 cop. te any part
of the interior. The tewn-post goes out
several times a day. Boxes for town
and country letters in all the princi-
pal thoroughfares, and at the chief
hotels. The town postage is 5 copecks.
Stamps only sold at the post-oflSce,
although kept at the hotels. Prepay-
ment of foreign letters is not obliga-
tory. No newspapers are transmitted
by post to Russia that have not been
subscribed for at St. Petersburg. The
charge for a telegram to London is
3 rs. for 20 words, including the ad-
dress. The time of transmission varies
according to the amount of business ;
4 hrs. is about the minimum. Mes-
sages in English taken. Telegrams
may be sent hence to Teheran and to
Kiakhta in Siberia for Pekin.
36. Summary of Buildings, — Al-
though the principal objects of interest
which are to be seen at St. Petersburg
have now been enumerated, a descrip-
tion of the city would not be complete
without a cursory mention of the fol-
lowing buildings and institutions.
1. Leuchteviberg or Marie Palace,
behind St. Isaac^, built in 1844 for
the Grand Duchess Marie ; fitted up
with most exquisite taste, and has a
large winter garden. The picture
gaUery has been described. The pa-
Bossia.
Boute 1. — St. PderAurg : Buddings.
145
lace occupies the site of a house which
once belonged to Prince Czemisheff,
where the Emperor Paul entertained
the Prince de Oonde. On that occa-
sion the apartments were furnished in
exact imitation of those at Ghantilly
when Paul visited him in 1783. The
servants wore the liveries of the Prince,
and over the entrance of the palace
an inscription stated it to be the
"Hotel de Cond^." 2. Palace of the
Grand Duke Nicholas^ at the Nicholas
Bridge, recently constructed. 3. Pa-
lace of Grand Duke Micftael on the
CJourt Quay. 4. Michael Palace, oc-
cupied by the Grand Duchess Helen,
in Michael Square, built by Rossi in
1822; a vast and elegant edifice,
ornamented in front with pillars of
the Corinthian order. A large garden
is attached to it. 5. AnitchJcoff P&laxie,
in the Nevsky, built in 1744, by Count
Baatrelli, for the Empress Elizabeth,
who gave it to Count Sazumofski. It
reverted to the crown in 1791, when it
became the seat of the " Cabinet," or
that of the administration of the Impe-
rial household. The widow of the
Emperor Nicholas resided and died
there, but it is now occupied by the
Tsesarevitch and his consort Marie
Feodorowna, late Princess Dagmar of
Denmark. On the bridge beyond the
palace are the well-known equestrian
statues by Baron Klodt. 6. The large
house over the bridge, on the rt., is
the residence of the princely family of
JBeloselshi' Beloserskif containing the
most beautiful staircase and the rich-
est suite of apartments of any of the
private palaces of St. Petersburg. It
is full of pictures and costly objects
of art. 7. The State Bank in Great
Garden-street, opposite the Stchukin
Dvor. This handsome building is
likewise due to the architect Qua-
renghi. It is a State institution,
ostensibly for the promotion of trade,
but in reality a branch of the treasury
and an agency between the govern-
ment and the pubUc for sundry finan-
cial transactions. 8. The estdbUshment
for printing the notes of this bank and
other government paper will repay
inspection. It lies in the direction of
the Peterhoff Railway Stat. There
is an Artesian well on the premises,
9. The Toton HaU, on the Nevski,
surmounted by a signal tower. The
business of the town corporation is
transacted here. 10. Opposite the
Gostinnoi Dvor is the Pasmge or
arcade in which pedestrians take
refuge in case of rain. The shops
are principally kept by foreigners.
11. Riding Softool of the Horse-guards
and Barra^cks, along the boulevard
near the Grand Duke Nicholas' Palace.
These may be inspected by military
men on application to some of the
officers. 12. The riding - school at
the opposite end of the square, near
the palace, is now converted into a
MiLseum of Agriculture, where the
various processes of agriculture used
in Russia are exhibited. 13. Military
Schools, Technological Institute, &c.
Travellers who desire to study the
system of education pursued in Russia
will probably obtain letters of intro-
duction which will procure for them
the information they seek. 14. Physi-
cal Observatory, alongside the School
of Mines, where the temperature of
the atmosphere and other phenomena
are carefully recorded. 15. TJie Ceme-
teries of Smolensk and Volkova will
afford materials for reflection, especi-
ally on the first Monday after Easter,
or "Recollection Monday." Thou-
sands congregate to the cemeteries
three or four times during the year,
bringing with them provisions of
every kind, which are consiuned over
the graves of departed relatives and
friends. Much taste and feeling are
exhibited in the monumental records
of the dead; they illustrate, better
than words, the kindly and sympa-
thetic temperament of the Russian
people.
87. Spobtb and Amusements.
In summer the tourist can join the
matches of the St. Petersburg Cricket
Club, or the excursions of the English
Boat Club ; he can play at Tennis in
a court adjoining the cricket-ground.
146
Boute l.-r-St. Peiershurg: Drives,
Sect. I,
on Vassili Island, and shoot black-
cock, capercailzie, snipe, and duck,
from July to October. Fishing is not
much cultivated, but there is good
sport to be had a short way out of
town, towards Finland. In winter
there is bear, elk, and wolf hunting
in the neighbourhood of the capital ;
hares are so plentiful as scarcely to
afford any sport. A subscription pack
of fox-hounds has long been kept,
with occasional intermissions, at a
hunting-lodge called Gorelo^, sup-
ported by the English residents. In
winter, skating and going down ice-
hills afford most healthy and mirthful
exercise. Drives in troitas, or sledges
drawn by 3 horses abreast, complete
the amusements to which the traveller
in Russia will be welcomed by any
member of the British community at
8t. Petersburg to whom he may have
been recommended. For further par-
ticulars respecting sport, vide Intro-
duction.
38. Drives. — The first drive the
tourist should take in sunmier is to
the islands of the Neva, a little before
sunset, the hour at which the rank
and fashion still in the neighbourhood
- of St. Petersburg assemble at the
"Point" (Strega) of Yelagin Island.
Crossing the Trinity Bridge, he will
be carried swiftly along the KamennO'
OstrofsJii Prospect^ lined on either side,
first with the houses of the poorer
classes, and further on with sub-
urban retreats of varying attractions.
Beyond Kamennoij or Stone Island, is
Krestofshi, or Cross Island, on which
stands the Beloselski-Belozerski Cha-
teau. Beyond this again is Yelagin
Island, with an imperial residence,
very prettily laid out and charmingly
situated. The view from this chateau
is delightful ; first the gardens, with
their neat English-looking gravel
walks and flower-beds ; then the broad
sheet of the Neva, with its verdant
banks, dotted with picturesque cha-
lets standing out from a background
of sombre pine-trees; and beyond
again, the lofty golden spires of the
capital rising in the distance and
glowing with the last red rays of the
setting sun. There are few above
the condition of tradesmen who do
not afford themselves the luxury
of a cottage or a few rooms be-
yond the precincts of the hot and
dusty city. Men of business retire to
the islands or to Peterhof after the
hours of " change," and set in motion
a great number and variety of con-
veyances that enliven the chaws^es
and make them look somewhat like
the Epsom road on Derby day. Small
river steamers convey great numbers
from a landing-stage opposite the Sum-
mer Garden. The tourist should visit
the extensive establishment of the
Eiver Yacht Club on Yelagin Island.
On his way back to town he should
drive to Isler^s establisliment for Min-
eral Waters at Novaia Derevnia, the
Cremome of St. Petersburg without
the dancing. Several other (places of
entertainment, with dancing, will bo
passed ; but a visit to these we leave
to the tastes and inclinations of the
tourist.
The Botanical Gardens on Apothe-
caries* Island, open to the public, may
interest the horticultiu-ist. The science
of hot-house gardening is here brought
to the utmost perfection, and one of
the finest assortments of tropical plants
has been collected amid the snows of
the north. The collection of Orchi-
daceous plants is one of the best in
Europe.
The more distant drives can only
be undertaken under the guidance of
a resident. Pergola, Murina, and
other places further in Finland, are
strewed with pretty villas, where
merriment and hospitaUty abound.
A very short drive through the
streets of St. Petersburg will brinjij
the visitor to the Moscow Gate or Tri-
umphal Arch, where the old road to
the ancient capital begins. It is in the
Greek style of architecture, and was
finished in 1838, by Stassof, Court
architect. Twelve columns 7 ft. ui
diam. and 68 ft. high, support an
attic ornamented with 12 angels in
bas-relief, while above is the inscrip-
tion: "To the triumphant Kussian
armies, in inlM^l7 of their deeds in
Bussia.
Boute 1. — St Petersburg : Cronstadt.
147
Persia, in Turkey, and in the suppres-
sion of the troubles in Poland, in the
years 1826, 1827, 1828, 1829, 1830,
1831." On the city side the inscrip-
tion is in Latin, on the other in Rus-
sian. This magnificent monument is
well worth seeing. (For description
of Narva Triumphal Arch vide Ex-
cursion 1.)
The Gardens of BezhorodJco, a short
distance up the river beyond the Sum-
mer Gardens, may be reached in one
of the small steamers that ply on the
river. There is an establishment there,
called the Tivoli, where a good dinner
may be obtained, and where balls are
given in autumn. It is also a place
for picnics and skating under shelter
in winter.
The Gardens of Catlterinenhofj in
the direction of the road to Peterhof,
are only visited by the public on the
1st (13th) May, to hail the return of
spring. The j^old palace of Cathe-
rinenhof is shown.
39. EXCUBSIONS.
I. To Cronstadt, Oranienbaum, Pe-
terhof, Strelna, and Monastery of St.
Sergius.
This excursion may be made in one
day, or each place may be visited
separately, according to the time at
the disposal of the tourist. The tra-
veller may even reverse the itinerary
and proceed first to Sergi or Peterhof.
The following is, however, a sketch of
the excursion in its entirety.
Leaving the Quay of Vassili Island
at an early hour (about 9 A.M.), Cron-
stadt is reached by steamer in an hour
and a half.
Cronstadt, the port of St. Peters-
burg, has a Pop. of 37,000 Inhab., in-
cluding the garrison (about 25,000).
The fortifications are extensive, and
were begun by Peter the Great in
1703, when he dispossessed the Swedes.
The first fort that he erected was
Kronschlott, opposite the entrance of
BiiMta.— 1868.
the present harbour. Prince Menschi-
ko£f conducted the works under the
directions of Peter, and one of the
forts still bears his name. Succeeding
governments have strengthened the
fortifications, and secured the ap-
proach from seaward by sinking ships
and erecting batteries, especially after
the visit of the Baltic Squadron in
1854. It has long been the cliief
station in the Baltic for the Bussian
fleet, moored in a harbour in the rear
of the fortifications. The western-
most harbour is appropriated to mer-
chant vessels, of which about 1300
enter the port annually; no fewer
than two thirds being English. The
bar at the mouth of the Neva carries
a depth of only 8 to 10 ft., and pre-
sents a very narrow channel, navigable
by ships of small burthen. The larger
vessels discharge and load at Cron-
stadt, their goods being transported
to and from St. Petersburg in lighters.
The declared value of the imports
cleared at the custom-house at St.
Petersburg amounts annually to about
13,000,000i. ; and the exports (prin-
cipally tallow, com, hemp, and flax)
to about 7,000,OOOZ.
This trade gives rise to considerable
activity at Cronstadt between May
and November, and enlivens the town,
which in the winter season is exceed-
ingly dreary. The only objects to
interest the stranger are the fortifica-
tions and the harbour, which he can
view by taking a walk to the " Mole-
head," or by crossing the " Merchants'
Harbour " in a ferry-boat. The canal
is bordered with granite and an iron
railing, begun by Peter in 1721, and
finished by the Empress Elizabeth.
Another canal, commenced in 1782,
unites the " Italian Pond " with the
Merchants' Harbour. The dry docks
will admit the largest vessels of war,
and a splendid steam factory almost
rivals Keyham in its mechanical ap-
pliances. These can only be viewed
by permission of the military authori-
ties. Strangers may drive to the
extremity of the island, 3 or 4 miles
beyond the citadel-gate, where they
will obtain a better view of the re-
nowned forts of Cronstadt and of the
I
148
Boute 1, — 8l Petersburg : Oranienbaufn. Sect. 1.
South Channel, now dammed up, but
Which Sir Charles Napier ascended
to the parallel of the great Naval
Hospital, near the pier for the boats
to St. Petersburg. The Summer Gar-
den, originally planted by Peter the
Great, contains a restaurant where
refreshments may be obtained. Near
to it and to the governor's residence,
on a square at the back of the middle
harbour, is a statue of Peter the
Great, by Baron BLlodt.
There is a British chapel at Cron-
stadt, frequented by seafarers and by
the English residents, who are about
50 in number. It is also the seat of a
British vice-consulate.
The British Seamen's Hospital op-
posite the English chapel will be
visited by those who take an interest
in such institutions. It was esta-
blished in 1867 by private subscrip-
tion, and is under the patronage of
H:R.H. the Prince of Wales, and of
H.E. the British Ambassador at the
Court of Russia. There is sufficient
accommodation for 50 or 60 patients,
although the nimiber of beds, when
no epidemic prevails, is only 35. An
inspection of the premises will show
that nothing has been neglected to
make the establishment equal to the
best in Europe, or even anywhere, on
the same scale. The purchase of the
ground and the building and furnish-
ing expenses amounted to about
5500Z., of which 2000Z., were ad-
vanced by Mr. Edward Cazalet,
an English merchant at St. Peters-
burg. This debt is to be gradually
paid off out of the prospective con-
tributions of the charitable, as well
as out of the profits of the institu-
tion arising from a compulsory tax
on all British vessels discharging or
loading at Cronstadt, at the rate of
1 rouble per man of the crew of a
sailing vessel, and 50 copecks per man
of the crew of a steamer — a tax that
brings in about 10,000 rs. per annum.
The number of British seamen who
have the advantage of this excellent
institution during the months of
summer is between 13,000 and 14,000,
but indirectly its benefits have been
extended to nearly 10,000 seamen
of other nations, for whom another
hospital has since been established on
a similar basis.
The affairs of the British Seamen's
Hospital are managed by a committee
of which H.B.M. Consul at St. Peters-
burg is ex-officio chairman. Per-
mission to view the institution will
readily be granted by the resident
Medical Officer.
Befreshments may be had at the
British Hotel, in the principal street
of Cronstadt, or at one of the Clubs
(the Naval and the Merchants*) if the
tourist be introduced by a member.
English is spoken in most of the shops,
and even the drojky-drivers are able
to converse in " pigeon-English."
Oranienbaum.—Smoll steamers ply
several times a day between Cron-
stadt and Oranienbaum, about 5 m.
distant. The traveller is recom-
mended to engage a carriage or a
drojky here to take him to Peterhof,
or even to Sergi, with the under-
standing that all the sights between
these places are to be visited. A car-
riage for the day will cost from 7 to
10 rubles. Travellers may, if they
prefer it, proceed from Oranienbaum
to Peterhof by rail, a distance of 6 m.
The palace of Oranienbaum is well
worth seeing. Built on a terrace, it
commands a lovely and extensive
view of Cronstadt and its fortifications,
and of an immense expanse of water,
studded with busy craft under sail
and steam. It was built by Menschi-
koff in 1724, and confiscated on his
attainder. Subsequently it became
the favourite residence of Peter III.,
who surrounded himself there with
his Holstein guard, and raised a
mimic fortification, which is still to
be seen. This imperial residence
now belongs to the Grand Duchess
Helen.
There is an excellent buffet at the
Railway Station in Oranienbaum,
where dinner or refreshments may be
had.
Taking the high road to St. Peters-
burg, the tourist wiU pass numerous
summer residences and a thriving
German colo^^^ ' M^^^^ ch&teau
Bnssia.
Boute 1. — St Pdersburg : Peterhof,
149
beyond Oranienbaum is Sergiefka, the
property of the Grand Duchess Marie
Nicolaevna. The house is most beau-
tifully situated in grounds very taste-
fully ornamented. Beyond this is
Sobstvennaya, or " Mine Own," a most
lovely miniature palace, built for the
Emperor Alexander II. when heir
apparent. Strangers are allowed to
inspect it^ and should not omit doing
so. The several rooms are most taste-
fully and richly ornamented, and the
garden behind, kept with the utmost
care, affords a most charming pros-
pect. The summer residence and the
farm of Prince Peter of Oldenburg
stand between this and Peterhof.
Peterhof, — The construction of this
prettily-situated residence was com-
menced about 1720. The palace, situ-
ated on an elevation of 60 feet, was
built by Leblond, under the directions
of Peter the Great, and is one of the
principal attractions of the place.
Although every emperor and every
empress has made alterations and ad-
ditions, the character of the whole is
the same as that of all the palaces
built by Pete?: ; even the yellow colour,
which was its original hue, is always
renewed, and its architecture, lite
that of the other palaces, is very in-
significant in style.
Inside, however, are to be seen
some beiautifol tapestries, countless
articles of virtu, tazzas of porcelain,
malachite, and marble, and a num-
ber of pictures chieiiy representing
the naval victories of Orloff and other
llussian generals of Catherine II.
There is also one highly interesting
apartment, containing a collection of
368 female portraits executed by a
certain Count Rotari for that Empress
during a journey which he made
through the fifty provinces of Bussia.
They are all beautiful young girls,
whom the count has painted in pic-
turesque attitudes, and in their na-
tional costumes ; and one cannot but
N admire the inventive genius of the
■ artist in giving a different position
and expression to so many faces.
One pretty girl is knitting diligently,
another embroidering; one peeps
archly from behind a curtain, another
gazes expectingly from a window ;
another leans over a chair, as if list-
ening to her lover ; a sixth, reclining
on cushions, seems lost in thought.
One slumbers softly and sweetly ; this
stands before a glass, combing her
beautiful hair; that has buried her-
self up to the ears in fur, leaving
visible only a pair of tender rosy lips,
and soft blue eyes gleaming from
under the wild bear's skin. There
are also some excellent portraits of
old people : two in particular — an
old man with a staff, and an old
woman by the fire. This collection
is unique in its kind, and would be
invaluable for a physiognomist, if he
could be certain that these portraits
were as exact and faithful as they are
pleasing and tasteful. But this is
doubtful, for they all bear, undeni-
ably, rather the stamp of the French
school than of the Bussian, Tartar,
Finnish, or any other nationality
within the Bussian empire. It is also
a suspicious circumstance, that they
were done by a gentleman for a lady ;
and probably behind every graceful
attitude some flattering homage to the
Empress lies concealed. The other
apartments do not contain anything
very remarkable. In one are the little
table and benches with which the
Emperors Alexander I. and Nicholas
played as children ; in another, some
carving and turner's work of Peter
the Great.
From the palace to the sea-shore»
the garden is laid out in terraces
adorned with fountains and water-
falls ; the basins, the Neptunes, storks,
swans, and nymphs, the tritons, dol-
phins, painted rocks, and grottoes, are
copied from the engravings in Hush-
field's * Art of Gardening.'
The water-works are considered but
little inferior to those at Versailles.
The fountain called the Samson, in
front of the palace, is a magnificent
jet-d'eau, 80 feet high, and from it to
the sea, a distance of 500 yards, runs
a canal, wherein are many smaller
fountains. On each side of the Samson
so called from a colossal bronze figure
tearing open the jaws of a lion from
I 2
150
Boute 1. — St, Petersburg : Peterhof.
Sect. 1.
whence the water rushes, are other
jets-d'eau which throw water vertically
and horizontally ; these basins are at
the foot of the elevation on which the
palace stands. In the centre is a
broad flight of steps leading to the
palace, and on each side a continuous
range of marble slabs to the top of the
hill over which the water pours down,
the slabs being placed high and far
apart so as to allow lamps to be
arranged behind the water. This is
done at the Feteihof fetes.
The smaller buildings of Marly and
Montplaisir, in the garden below, re-
mind the spectator of the modest
domestic arrangements of the carpenter
of Saardam, the great reformer of
Eastern Europe.
It was from Marly that Peter the
Great loved to contemplate his infant
fleet, moored beneath the batteries of
Cronstadt. In Montplaisir, a low
Dutch-built summer-house, the Em-
press Elizabeth used to amuse her
royal leisure by cooking her own
dinner. In this lowly abode the great
Peter breathed his last, and his bed
is still preserved imtouched since his
death. It contains a small collection
of pictures of the Flemish and Dutch
schools of the 17th and beginning of
the 18th centy., purchased hj Peter
the Great during his travels in Hol-
land.
The Hermitage is chiefly remarkable
for the contrivance by whicih the dishes
and plates descend from the table
through grooves cut in the floor, and
are replaced by others without any
servant being seen.
The famous Cottage of Catherine is,
without, all plain, even to poverty;
within, all glorious and radiant with
^old, and mirrors reflecting each ob-
ject, giving the tiny dwelling an ap-
pearance of size and magniflcence
quite astonishing.
There is also a low thatched build-
ing, called the Straw Palace, In a
piece of water in the gardens are
a great many tame carp, which are
regularly fed, and come to the visitors
as readily as the swans in St. James's
Park.
The EngUik Park, so called from its
having been laid out by an English
gardener, is on the right-hand side of
the road coming from Oranienbaum.
It contains an old building designed
by Quarenghi, and called the English
Palace, where subscription balls are
given in autumn. Many ornamental
cottages and pieces of water surround
it. A pretty road leads through the
park to a charming cottage belonging
to the Emperor, and call^ Babbigan.
Adjoining the lower garden of the
old palace of Peterhof is Alexandria,
the private grounds of the Emperor,
where he resides while at Peterhof.
There are several imperial cottages
within the grounds (to which visitors
are only admitted by tickets issued by
the governor of the town), and amongst
them is the small house of the Em-
peror Nicholas I., from the roof of
which, with a telescope still shown, he
was wont to watch the movements of
the Anglo-French squadron in front
of Cronstadt. There are several beau-
tiful views of the gulf to be obtained
in these gardens. A little stream
which flows through them sets in
motion a miniature mill, constructed
for the children of the Emperor
Nicholas.
Visitors preferring to dine or take
luncheon at Peterhof will find a good
hotel close to the steamboat pier, on
the shore of the gulf.
Passing out of the private grounds,
the traveller should take the centre
road, or that between the high road
and the road along the coast. The
first Imperial residence on the right
is Znamenskyj belonging to the Grand
Duke Nicholas, and prettily situated
on the top of a high embankment.
His farm, called KretUz, which the
tourist should inspect, and where he
should refresh himself with a draught
of milk, is 1^ m. beyond.
MihaUofsky, the property of the
Grand Duke Michael, is about 1^ m.
further on. It is built in the Italian
style, and is really a princely resi-
dence. If the traveller have a fancy
for viewing palaces, no better oppor-
tunity could possibly occur than during
Eussia.
Baute 1. — SL Peter ^urg : Strelna.
161
th& drive here described. 2 m. be-
yond is
Strdnay a palace of the Grand Duke
Constantine, 12 m. from St. Peters-
burg. It was originally built in 1711,
and presented by Peter the Great to
his daughter Elizabeth, by whom it
was much neglected. In 1797 the
Emperor Paul gave it to his eldest
son Constantino, who resided there in
summer, and considerably improved
the grounds. It was almost entirely
destroyed by fire in 1803, and was
rebuilt by the Emperor Alexander I.
The palace and groxmds were be-
queathed to General Alexandroff, from
whose family they have since been
repurchased. It is a pretty Gothic
building, situated on a commanding
position ; but its iuterior is plain, and,
with the exception of the ball-room,
simply furnished. The gardens are
laid out in the Dutch style. The
marble bath was built for the consort of
the Grand Duke Constantino Nioolae-
vitch.
A drive of about a mile will bring
the traveller to Sergi, or the monastery
of St. Sergius, which will well repay
a visit. The monastery of Troitskaia-
Sergieva was founded in 1734 on the
site of a farm which belonged to the
daughter of John, brother of Peter
the Great. Her sister, the Empress
Anne, bestowed the grounds on War-
laam, the superior of the Troitsa
Monastery, near Moscow, by whom
the first church and cells were built.
Until 1764 this monastery continued
to be attached to the Troitsa. The
principal church stands at the back
of the grounds, on the edge of an
elevation which overlooks the estuary
of the Neva, and is certainly one of
the prettiest in Kussia. Its open roof
and its stalls of oak give it an air of
elegance and comfort that few Russo-
Greek churches possess. It bears
some resemblance to Merton Col-
lege Chapel at Oxford. The granite
monoliths were quarried on the spot.
' Below are numerous mortuary chapels,
open to visitors. These are the sepul-
chral vaults of many great families.
They are full of tokens that the dead
are not forgotten by the living. In
one chapel the visitor will see, over
the tombs of two little boys and their
mother, a picture almost the size of
life, and painted from actual portraits,
representing the mother bringing her
children to the Saviour, who receives
them, saying, '^Suffer little children
to come unto me." The monuments
in the churchyard are very rich and
handsome. On some, small lamps are
kept perpetually burning, as if to in-
dicate that Hope was not to be extin-
guished by Death. Great crowds
resort to this monastery on Sundays,
and wander among the gravestones.
The singing in this monastqfy is very
fine, particularly at vespers on Satur-
days, between the hours of 7 and 9.
Several great Bussian families have
erected handsome mausoleums, which
may be inspected on application to the
obliging Archimandrite, who continues
to spend his private fortime in embel-
lishing the monastery.
From here the traveller is recom-
mended to rejoin the railway, about
1 m. to the rt. of the road. He may
refresh himself at a celebrated restau-
rant called August^Sy which stands
almost at the comer of the road that
leads to the railway station. A run
of half an hour will bring the tourist
to the station at St. Petersburg, where
he will find numerous drojkies in
waiting.
Sometimes a carriage may be pro-
cured at Sergi, and a tourist so in-
clined may continue his journey to
St. Petersburg by the high road (20 v.),
passing many pretty villas, once
tenanted by the nobility of Russia,
but abandoned by them since the
Court commenced to reside for longer
periods at Tsarsko^ Selo.
Twelve versts before reaching St.
Petersburg a lunatic asylum will be
passed. It may be inspected at any
time on am)lication to the medical
superintendent, who speaks English.
It is one of the best establishments of
the kind in Europe, the system pur-
sued being only partly coercive for the
more refractory patients.
The average annual number of iji-
162
BotUe 1, — St Petersburg : Tear shoe Selo,
Sect. I.
mates is 400. The principal form of
malady is dementia, the cases of
melancholy being about 14 per cent.
less than of the fonner, represented by
33 per cent, of the total number. The
cases of mania between 1859-1863
were 13 per cent., and imbecility 15
per cent. The number of cures per-
formed between the above years was
9^ per cent, of the whole. Mechanical
restraint was used in 5*56 per cent, of
cases, principally in those of females.
The capital will be approached
through the Triumphal Arch of Narva,
so called after the road which passes
through it, and which leads to Narva
and the Baltic provinces. This fine
gate commemorates the return of
the Bussian troops in 1815. It is
formed by very high columns of metal
supporting the arch, which is sur-
mounted by a triumphal car drawn
by six horses, and conducted by
victory holding the trophies of glory
and of combats. Below, between the
two columns, are warriors wearing
Slavonian armour, and waiting to re-
ceive their laurel wreaths. The in-
scription above, in Latin and Bussian,
is : " Grateful Bussia to its victorious
legions."
The other triumphal arch of St.
Petersburg has been described under
" Drives."
2. To camp at Krasno^ Selo by
Peterhof line of rail in f of an hour. —
The Guards go imder canvas during
the summer months, and the great
bulk of them are generally encamped
at Krasno^ Selo. The emperor re-
views them about the end of August,
when they engage in mimic warfare,
and attack and defend neighbouring
positions. The exercises of the troops,
and perhaps their gymnastics, will be
of interest to the military traveller,
who should come provided with a
tmiform, which will secure the kindest
attention on the part of the officers of
the staf^ including quarters and a
good mount. Forty to fifty thousand
troops are manoeuvred here.
3. Tsarslco^ S^lo and Favlofdc,-—
"his royal residence and favourite
resort of the Imperial family is distant
about 15 m. from St. Petersburg.
The best and most rapid mode of
proceeding to Tsarskod is by the rail-
road, the first laid down in Bussia,
but it may be reached by road, taking
Pulkova Observatory on the way
{vide Excursion 4). The train will
land the traveller at a little distance
from the palace, but drojkies, or, in
winter, sledges, are in readiness at
the station to carry the passengers on.
At the entrance to the grounds of the
palace are two small towers carved
with Egyptian figures and hierogly-
phics taken from the classical work of
Denon on that country.
The facade of the Palace^ built in
1744, but embelUshed by Caliierine II.,
is 780 ft. in length ; originally every
statue, pedestal, and capital of the
numerous columns, the vases, carvings
and other ornaments in front, were
covered with gold-leaf, and the gold
used for that purpose .amounted to
more than a million of ducats. In a
few years the gildings wore oflF, and
the contractors engaged in repairing
it offered the Empress nearly half a
million of silver roubles for the frag-
ments of gold-leaf; but Catherine
refused, saying, "Je ne suis pas
dans Tusage de vendre mes vieilles
hardes."
The only gilding which now re-
mains is -on the dome and cupolas of
the ch. The front of the palace,
towards the gardens, is stained green,
white, and .yellow. The first portion
of the building generally shown is
the chapel, a spacious room, fitted up
entirely with dark-coloured wood,
most lavishly gilded, even the ceiling
being one bright sheet of gold; on
the walls are some curious old paint-
ings. A key of the city of Adrian-
ople hangs beside the altar. The
royal family have a kind of gallery in
the chapel, communicating with their
various apartments in the palace, and
situated immediately opposite the
screen or Ikonostas.
The walls and floors of the palace
are exceedingly richly decorated : the
former are either simple white and
gold, or hung with rich silks; the
Easaia. BotUe 1. — St Petersburg : Tsarskoe SMo,
153
latter parquetted in the most graceful
designs and tender colours, and still
as fresh as when first laid down. One
of the most elegant rooms is that
called the Lapis-lazuli, ornamented
with encrustations of that stone. The
floor of this apartment is of ebony
inlaid with large flowers of mother-
of-pearl, forming one of the most
splendid contrasts possible. The room
itself is not very large, but the effect
is beautifuL Catherine has been fre-
quently accused of Vandalism in
having the pictures in this room cut
so as to fit the walls. The wall is
certainly covered with pictures without
frames, forming a complete lining, but
their proportions have not been cur-
tailed. The wonder of this palace is
the famous Amber Boom, the walls of
which are literally panelled with that
material in various architectural de-
signs, the arms of Frederick the Great,
by whom the amber was presented to
Catherine II., being moulded in dif-
ferent compartments with the imperial
cipher, the Russian E for Ekaterina.
Accustomed to see only small pieces of
tliis beantiful substance, one can hardly
believe that the large rough fragments
projecting from the walls are really
amber; they are of a pale yellow,
and in several places form groups of
figures with frames composed of larger
portions.
The bed-chamber of Catherine is
adorned with walls of porcelain and
pillars of purple glass.
In the banqueting-room the entire
walls to the height of about 9 ft. are
covered with gold, with which the ceil-
ings of almost all the state apartments
are lavishly covered. The Chinese
room is remarkable for the taste with
which everything is arranged after the
fantastic fashion of the Celestial Em-
pire. Two grand beli-rooms are also
conspicuous, the upper end of each
being occupied by a collection of the
most splendid china vases placed on
circular tiers up to the ceiling, and
marked with the Imperial E. The
whole palace, in fact, breathes recol-
lecticms of the great Catherine; and
here are to be seen her private apart-
ments, and the gentle descent leading
into the garden by which she was
wheeled up and down, when infirmity
had deprived her of the use of her
limbs.
The apartments of Alexander I.
have been kept exactly as he left them
when he staiied for Taganrog. His
study was a small ligiit room with
scagliola walls. Beyond this was his
simple bed-room with a slight camp
bedsteeid in an alcove. On one side
is a small table with a little green
morocco looking-glass, his simple
English shaving apparatus, his brushes,
combs, and a pocket-handkerchief
marked Z. 23.
The Alexander Palace was built by
Catherine for her grandson Alexander
I. It is of a simple, yet lofty style.
The only objects on the plain walls of
the great drawing-room are a small
print of Admiral Sir Edward Codring-
ton, and the busts of seven Imperial
children in infantine beauty. The
Emperor's own room, in point of heavy
writing-tables and bureaux, is that of
a man of business, but ^e military
tastes of Nicholas are apparent in the
glass cases containing models of the
different cavalry regiments, executed^
man and horse, with the greatest
beauty and accuracy. Paintings of
military manoeuvres and stiff squares
of soldiers are also dispersed through
the apartments.
The Arsenah a recent red brick erec-
tion in English Gothic, is a most pic-
turesque object in the noble gardens
of the palace. For several generations
the Russian sovereigns have amassed
a collection of armour and curious
antique instruments. These were in-
creased in the reign of the Emperor
Nicholas, who erected this building
purposely for their reception, and in-
trusted tieir classification and armnge-
ment to an Englishman.
It would be impossible to enumerate
the objects here preserved, consisting
chiefly of ancient armour, weapons,
and accoutrements of every descrip-
tion, for man and horse, from every
warlike nation, both Christian and
Pagan. Figures in armour guaid the
154
Boute 1. — St Peterihurg : Tsarskoe Selo,
Sect. L
entrance and lead the eye along the
winding staircase, whence a lofty cir-
cular vaulted hall is entered, with oak
flooring, and walls hung round with
carbines, lances, &c., in fanciful de-
vices, and where, placed on higli pedes-
tals in a circle round the room, are 8
equestrian figures in full accoutrements
and as large as life, like the kings in
the Tower of London. Between these
the visitor passes on to various little
alcoves or oratories with groined ceiling
and stained window, whose light falls
on the gorgeously wrought silver cross
or precious missal of some early pope,
or on the diamond-and- pearl- woven
trappings of Turkish luxury; or on
the hunting-horn, with ivory handle of
exquisitely carved figures, of some
doughty German Markgraf of the olden
time; or on the jousting instruments
and other playthings of the Amazons
of Catherine II/s court.
In a glass case in the arsenal are
preserved the small silver drum and
trumpet given by Catherine to the
Emperor Paul in his childhood, and
beside them is the autograph letter
of Bessi4res to Davoust, Governor of
Moscow, ordering him to evacuate the
city.
In a recess are placed 2 sets of horse-
trappings presented by the Sultan to
the Emperor — ^the first on concluding
the peace of Adrianople, when the
"yellow-haired Giaours" passed vic-
toriously the mountain barrier of the
Balkan, and were well nigh at the
gates of his capital. This saddle is
superb, with its trappings of purple
velvet studded with diamonds, and its
stirrups of gold ; but the other makes
its glories dim when seen together.
This was given when the Porte sued
as a suppliant to Hussia for an auxi-
liary force to defend a tottering throne
against a rebellious vassal, after the
fatal field of Konieh had witnessed the
overthrow of the only army the Sultan
possessed. The diamonds on the pistol
holsters of this saddle ai'e of unusual
size, and their brightness perfectly
dazzling, while every part of the
saddle and bridle is actually covered
with brilliants. Several swords, stud-
^ "d with diamonds, are also preserved
here ; for the most part presents from
various sovereigns to the present Em-
peror.
But tliis arsenal would require a
volume to itself, and offers inexhaust-
ible interest to the artist in mind,
and a very treasury of beautiful sub-
jects to the artist in profession. They
are minutely described in a French
catalogue which may be purchased
at the door. Visitors should ask to see
the Polish standards, weapons, and
uniforms, taken in the insurrection of
1863, which are kept in an upper
chamber of the Arsenal.
Tlie grounds around the palace are
18 m. in circumference, and contain
plenty of larch, oak, and elm, which
seem to flourish ; the gardens are cer-
tainly the most carefully kept in the
world ; the trees and flowers 9Jte
watched and inspected with the most
anxious minuteness.
The odd caprices exhibited in the
decoration of the grounds are really
extraordinary, and so numerous that
it would be difficult to enumerate them
all. In one corner is the tower of an
ornamental building of several stories,
where Alexander II. resided with his
tutor, when heir apparent ; in another
are the baby-houses of the young Grand
Duchesses, where they carried on a
mimic menage. In front of a Chinese
tower is a high pole, rigged like the
mast of a frigate. On one of the ponds
is a fleet of pigmy vessels, intended
to amuse the Grand Duke Constantine,
now High Admiral, in his professional
studies. In addition to all these
strange objects are a theatre, a Chinese
village, a Dutch and Swiss cow-house,
a Turkish kiosk, a summer-house in
the form of an Ionic colonnade sup-
porting an aerial garden, planted with
flowers, a Gothic building called the
Admiralty, a marble bridge with Corin-
thian columns of polished marble, also
rostral pillars and bronze statues, which
Catherine erected to her favourites;
amongst these is a column to Orloff.
There are likewise some commemora-
tive monuments raised by Alexander I.
to his "companions in arms," inter-
mingled with fields'^ol^'^d^s, hermit-
JRussia. Bovie 1. — St, Petersburg : Pidhova Observatcyry,
ages, artificial ruins, Homan tombs,
grottoes, and waterfalls.
One of the prettiest spots in the
gardens is a Pavilion at fiie end of a
small lake where the Grand Duchess
Alexandrina, the amiable daughter of
Nicholas, used to feed her swans, re-
placed since her premature death by
black ones. Her picture hangs there
with one of her sayings under it : " Je
sais, papa, que vous n'avez pas de plus
grand plaisir que d'en faire a maman."
Her fidl-length marble figure, with a
child in her arms, stands in an alcove,
surrounded by a handsome railing.
The celebrated Statue of our Saviour
by Danneker is shown in the artificial
ruin of a castle in the park.
From Tsarskoe the traveller is re-
commended to drive to Pavhfsk, 3 m.
beyond, in the carriage which conveyed
him to the several sights ; returning
to St. Petersburg by rail. Pavlofsk
was built in 1780 and restored in 1803.
The gardens are very extensive and
well laid out over the most picturesque
accidents of country. They are full of
ch&lets, pavilions, temples, and mor-
tuary chapels. The palace is*of very
simple architiecture, and belongs to the
Grand Duke Constantme. A short
walk in the grounds will afford all the
pleasure and information that are to be
derived firom a visit, not forgetting, of
course, the excellent orchestra which
plays daily at the Rly. Stat or Vaux-
haU, where tourists may dine or take
tea after their long excursion.
4. — PuDcova Ohserpatory, — ^This ex-
cursion may be made by road from
St. Petersburg (20 v.), or by taking
the train by tiie Tsarskoe Selo or
the Warsaw line to Tsarskoe Selo,
and driving thence to the Observatory,
which is open to visitors on Mondays,
Thursdays, and Saturdays from 11 a.m.
to 2 P.1I. Admission in the evening
only by express permission of the
Director. •
The Imperial Observatory of Pul-
kova was founded in 1838, by the
Emperor Nicholas, on a scale of great
magnificence. The splendid instru-
ments which it contains were purchased
from the best makers in Europe for
155
about 38,000Z., while the cost of con-
struction exceeded 300,000Z. It stands
on a considerable eminence, isolated
from other buildings within a circum-
ference of about a mile. Since its
foundation the Observatory has made
many important contributions to the
science of Astronomy ; the name of
Struve, father and son. Directors of the
Observatory, are too well known in
Europe to need any comment here.
Struve's measurement of the arc of
the meridian between the Danube and
the Polar Sea was one of the greatest
achievements of astronomical science.
Another measurement, equally well
known, was made subsequently be-
tween Valencia in Ireland and Orsk
in Siberia, comprising 52 degrees of
latitude.
All these works were executed by
officers of the Imperial Etat Major and
by the corps of Topographers edu-
cated at St. Petersburg. Within the
last 25 years the learned Directors of
the Observatory and their coadjutors
have published nearly 200 works on
Astronomy and Geodesy. The State
contributes a sum of about 5000Z. for
the support of the establishment.
5. For excursion to Gatchina Palace,
see route from Frontier to St. Peters-
burg.
6. To ScUussdhurg and Lake Ladoga,
— Small steamers leave several times a
day from a stage opposite the Summer
Garden, for SchlUsselburg, at the mouth
of the Neva, in Lake Ladoga, a dis-
tance of 40 m., which is made in 4 to
5 hours. This trip affords an oppor-
tunity of viewing the extensive manu-
factories, works, and buUding-slips,
established on the banks of the river,
most of which are under the manage-
ment of English mechanics. At a
place called Alexandrofiki is a large
steam factory. The works are sur-
roimded by a very large village, com-
posed of the dwellings of the artizans
and their masters. About 1 m. further
on are the Imperial Porcelain Worlis
where tiie ceramic art has been fos-
tered since the days of Catherine II.
A great perfection has been attained
I 3
156
B<mte 1. — St, Peter^urg : ScUusseJburg. Sect. I.
here in the manufacture and ornamen-
tation of china. Some splendid vases
are exhibited, and many exquisitely
modelled figures of biscuit. An ex-
cursion to these works alone might be
profitably undertaken. The long line
of cottages beyond are occupied by a
population engaged in the manufac-
ture of porcelain, which is all stamped
in blue witii the Bussian initial of the
reigning sovereign, surmounted by an
Imperial Crown. The Alexandrofski
Manufactory jlhighei up the river, was
once a thriving place, under the super-
intendence of our countryman, Gene-
ral Wilson, where numerous English
cotton-spinners, weavers, and other me-
chanics obtained lucrative employment.
The Government have now abandoned
the manufacture of cotton and linen
fabrics, and the principal buildings
are occupied by a Bussian Iron-works
Company. Higher up, after passing
the large German colony of Saratof^
the banks of the river become prettily
wooded. Many country seats, once
of great splendour, occur at intervals.
The picturesque ruins of an old castle,
called Pella, will be seen at the rapids
of the Neva, 17 m. from St. Petersburg.
SchlHsselhurg is a fortress on an
island at the source of the Neva. It
belonged anciently to Novgorod the
Great In 1324 George, Prince of
Moscow and Novgorod, raised a fort
on it during an expedition against
Wyborg, and a trade with Bevel soon
sprang up. The Lithuanians then took
it, but were driven out by Magnus
King of Sweden, a.d. 1347. The
Novgorodians retook it in 1352, and
raised a stone wall round the island.
From that date to its final occupation
by Peter the Great in 1702, Schlus-
selburg, or, as it was called by the
Swedes, Nateborg, remained a fruitful
subject of contention between the two
countries. The fortress has often served
as a state prison. John VI. met with his
death in it. The town of Schliisselburg,
on the left bank of the Neva, has
4000 Inhab., engaged in navigating
the Ladoga Lake and the famous canal
vhich forms part of the fluviatile
3tem oonnectiug the Boltio with the
Caspian. Tourists should inspect
the locks, and after strolling a little
in the country return to St. Petersburg
by the boat that brought them, and
which will take them down the rapid
current of the Neva in less than 2
hours. (For description of country
beyond Lake Ladoga, vide Bte. 3).
7. The Monastery of WcHaxim^ on
Lake Ladoga, should also be visited if
the traveller have suflScient time, par-
ticularly between the 27th and 30th
June O.S., when an annual fair is held
there. Steamers ply regularly.
This monastery is reputed to have
been founded between a.d. 973 and
980, before the introduction of Chris-
tianity into Bussia, but it is disputed
whether the 2 Greek monks who lie
buried at Walaam, Sergius and Ger-
manicus, flourished in the 10th or in
the 14th centy. In the 12th centy.,
and in 1577 and 1610, the place suf-
fered much from the inroads of the
Swedes, who crossed over from Serdo-
bol, on the mainland of Finland, 40 v.
distant, where an excellent dark gra-
nite is now quarried. The monastery
was destroyed by fire in 1754, and re-
stored to its present condition in 1785.
There are 5 chs. within it, and in one
of these (the Cath.) lie the remains of
the two Greek monks in handsome
shrines of silver.
The situation of the monastery is
very picturesque, and the islana on
which it stands is divided by a pretty
rivulet The traveller will visit with
interest the many cells and subter-
anean caverns in which the more
pious monks pass their lives in great
austerity.
In 1819 the Emperor Alexander
passed two days in prayer and fasting
at this monastery.
Tolerable accommodation will be
found, although, by the exercise of a
small amount of interest, the traveller
will probably be able to induce the
captain of the steamer to allow him to
pass a night on board, which will be
found preferable.
d by Google
Eussia.
Bmte 2,—Boute 3.
157
ROUTE 2.
LONDON TO ST. PETEBSBTJBG, BY SEA,
VIA CBONSTADT.
This route is cheaper than the over-
land journey. Steamers ply constantly
to Cronstadt and St. Petersburg from
London, Hull, and Leitk.
The London steamers charge about
61., exclusive of provisions (about 68.
per day), and make the voyage gene-
rally in 6 or 7 days.
The most popular Hull boat is the
Emperor paddle-steamer. Fares : 1st
cabin, 51.58.; second cabin, 31 3«. Pro-
visions 68. a day. Voyages performed
in 5 or 6 days.
Steamers leave Leith fortnightly for
St Petersburg. Fare 6Z. Provisions,
68. a day. Voyage 5 to 6 days.
All these steamers stop at Copn-
hagen. Some of them proceed direct
to St. Petersburg ; others stop at Cron-
stadt, and forward their passengers by
river boat or by rail via Oranienbaum.
Travellers wishing to avoid the land
journey fix)m Berlin may embark at
Lubeck or Stettin for St. Petersburg,
which may also be reached by way of
Riga, Stockholm, and Finland, for
which see Rte. 4, and " Finland." The
best months for the Baltic are June,
July, and August.
(For description of Cronstadt vids
Rte. 1.)
ROUTE 3.
LONDON TO ST. PBTEBSBUBG, VIA ABCH-
ANGEL.
Steamers loading for Archangel, and
having accommodation for passengers,
may be found in London and in the
North between the months of May and
August. An earlier or later voyage
should alike be avoided. The usual
fare is 6Z. first class, and a charge of
68. to 78. per diem for provisions during
a voyage that lasts 7 or 8 days under
favourable circumstances.
This route should not be under-
taken except by those who are pre-
pared to brave the difficulty and dis-
comfort of posting 750 miles, the
distance between Archangel and St.
Petersburg. Its choice can only bo
justified by a desire to cross the White
Sea, or to visit the interesting monas-
tery of Solovetsk, situated on an is-
land about 150 miles from Arch-
angel, a town which, however, pos-
sesses a certain amount of interest to
the British traveller from its having
been the " cradle " of the trade be-
tween Great Britain and Russia. (For
description of Early Intercourse with
Russia at Archangel, vide Rte. 1 —
" Russia Company.")
ARCHANGEL.
Hotels.— TheTe are no hotels properly
so called at Archangel, but accommo-
dation will be found in the ordinary
hostelries of the country, described
under " Posting."
History of Archangel.— Fo]p. 20,000.
Lat. 64° 33' N. 1104 versts from St.
Petersburg, and 1206 versts N. of
Moscow, on right bank of Northern
Dvina. uigitizedoy vjww^i^
158
BoiUe 3, — Archangel.
Sect. I.
The history of the town is traced
back to the 12th centy., when John,
Archbishop of Novgorod the Great,
founded a monastery on the coast of the
White Sea. In 1419 the Nortlunen
made a descent on that part of the coast,
destroyed the churches which be-
longed to the monasteries of St. Ni-
cholas and St. Michael, then already
existing, and put to death the monks.
It was at the former monastery that
Sir Bichard Chancellor landed in
1553, as related in the history of the
early intercourse of Great Britain with
Kussia. A wall was subsequently
built round the monastery of St.
Michael, and in 1584 the town which
had sprung up within the enclosure
began to be officially named New
Holmogory. In 1637 the town and
the monastery w^re destroyed by fire,
when the monks removed their shrines
to a place then called Niachery, where
they still remain. A church, dedi-
cated to the Archangel Michael, marks
the spot where the old monastery
stood. Fires devastated the town in
1637. 1667, and 1678. In the latter
year two foreign " builders of towns,"
Peter Marselin and William Scharf,
built a new fortress or wall of stone,
which was divided into three parts.
The upper part being called the
** Russian," and the lower the " Ger-
man" (or foreign) enclosure. Peter
the Great visited Archangel in 1693,
and founded a naval wharf on the
island of Solombola, connected with
Archangel by a floating bridge, and
which he peopled with seamen and
artizans, while on a neighbouring
island, called after Moses, he built a
summer residence, which can still be
seen. In 1701 Peter founded the for-
tress of Novodvinsk, 18 v. from Arch-
angel, on the Berezof branch of the
Dvina. The town was again burnt
down seven times between the years
1724 and 1793. Ruins of the old stone
wall are alone to be found, but the
** Russian court," or enclosure, is
partly extant. The custom-house and
harbour-master's offices are contained
within it. Two walls, very much
crumbled, mark the limits of the old
closure for foreigners. Archangel
was made the seat of provincial go-
vernment in 1702, the voe'vodes or
governors having previously resided
at Holmogory, now a district town,
71 V. from Archangel, and celebrated
for its fine cattle.
On the principal square are the
cathedral, the churches of the Arch-
angel and of the Resurrection, the
courts of law, &c. ; and a monument
to I^monosof, the poet fisherman of
Archangel, erected m 1838. On this
square formerly stood the houses of
the early English merchants. The
Archiepiscopal Palace, built in 1784,
is one of the oldest houses in Arch-
angel. Travellers may visit the old
monastery, from which the town takes
its name, and which was removed to
its present site, 2J v. from Archangel,
in 1637. It contains 2 stone chs., of
which one was built in 1685 and the
other in 1705.
The port is visited annually by
about 800 vessels, of which nearly
200 are British. Oats and other grain,
flax, linseed, tar, timber, and blubber
are largely exported (value about one
million sterling) ; but the import trade
is very limited.
An English ch. and a chapel-of-
ease, where divine service is performed
during the months of summer, are
still maintained for the benefit of the
shipping and of the English com-
munity, now reduced to very few
members. A British consul likewise
resides at Archangel.
1. Excursion to SoloveUh Monastery,
A steamer proceeds twice a week to
the monastery of Solovetsk, one of the
holiest places in Russia, founded in
1429 by Saint Sabbatheus, assisted by
Germanicus and Zosimus, two holy
monks. Zosimus having been made
abbot in 1442, the monastery began to
grow in wealth and power. The Arch-
bishop and Possadnik (governor) of
Novgorod made large grants of land,
while the inhabitants of that ancient
city presented the monastery with
gold and silver p^JHiMd^^ch vest-
Bussia.
Bouie 3. — SlovetsJc Monastery,
159
ments. In 1465 the relics of Sab-!
batheus were removed from their place
of sepulchre at the mouth of the
river Vyga, and deposited in the
Cathedral of the Transfiguration,
where St. Zosimus was subsequently
rIbo buried. In 1485 and 1538 the
monastery and its churches were
destroyed by fire ; but in 1552 the
then Abbot Philip (afterwards Metro-
politan of Moscow) began to rebuild
the churches in stone. During tlie
reign of Theodore, between 1590 and
1594, the monks built at their own
expense a wall of granite boulders,
with towers and embrasures, 3 to 4
fms. high and 3 fms. in thickness, and
running along a length of 421 fms.
In 1667 the monks refused to receive
the new books sent by the Patriarch
Nioon (vide description of the " New
Jerusalem"), and broke out into open
rebellion after ejecting their Archi-
mandrite, Joseph, and refusing to
listen to the envoy of the Tsar, the
Archimandrite Sergius of Jaroslaf.
But the leaders of the disaffected
monks, having been carried away to
Moscow, the remainder of the brethren
flew to arms, and shut themselves
up within their walls. The rebel-
lion lasted nine years. After many
ineffectual attacks by the Streltzi,
the Vo^vode, Prince John Mestcher-
ski, besieged the monastery for the
space of two years, and it only
fell by the treachery of one of the
monks, who disclosed to the enemy a
subterranean passage on the 22nd
January, 1676, when many of the
rebellious monks were put to the
sword. A large number of them
were either executed later or sent
into exile. The remainder were kept
in awe and submission during a
whole year by 300 Streltzi, under the
oommand of Prince* Vladimir Vol-
konsky.
In the 16th and 17th cents, the
Solovetsk monastery was the place of
banishment or retirement of many
celebrated men. Sylvester, the monk,
who exercised such a beneficial influ-
ence over the earlier days of John the
Terrible, lies buried there, together
with Abraham Palytsin, the patriotic
monk who roused the people to action
during the Polish occupation of Mos-
cow. Nicon, subsequently the famous
patriarch, took the cowl at Solovetsk.
Simon Bekbulatovitoh, the deposedTsar
of Kasan, and subsequently the friend
of his conqueror, John the Terrible,
was sent here in disgrace by the false
Demetrius, and forced to become a
monk, circa a.d. 1609. He was re-
moved in 1811 to the monastery of St.
Cyril-Beloozersk, in tiie province of
Novgorod. Peter the Great visited
Solovetsk in 1694 and 1702, on the last
occasion accompanied by his ill-fated
son Alexis. A chapel now stands
over the spot where he landed, while
within the gates will be seen the
models of the two vessels in which
Peter crossed over. One of these was
a yacht that had been built in Eng-
land.
The monks will point with pride to
the unexploded shells which were fired
from the British White Sea squad-
ron in 1855. They were summoned
to surrender to the ** squadron of
horse," as the interpreter incorrectly
put it to them; but they refused, and
their only gun having burst and killed
their only artilleryman, the holy
fathers formed themselves in proces-
sion, and walked round the walls, pre-
ceded by the cross, while the shells
were flying over their heads. An
obelisk, next the 2 chapels, commemo-
rates these proceedings.
Churches. — This celebrated fortress-
monastery now contains 6 chs. — 1.
The Cathedral of the Transfiguration,
built of wood in 1438 by Zosimus, but
rebuilt of stone by St. Philip in 1558,
and consecrated 1566. It has 5 altars,
erected contemporaneously, dedicated
as follows : — o, to the Archangel Mi-
chael ; 6, to Saints Zosimus and Sab-
batheus, whose relics are there pre-
served in shrines of silver-gilt, of
which the covers, weighing 180 lbs.
avoird. were made at Amsterdam in
1660, at the expense of tiie Boyar
Boris Morosoff ; c, to the 70 Apostles ;
d, to the 12 Apostles ; e, to Theodore
Stratilatus ; and /, to St. John of the
Ladder. The body of St. Phili^^
160
Boute 3. — Kern,
Sect. I.
Metropolitan of Moscow, having been
removed from the Otrotch monastery
near Tver, where the exiled metro-
politan had been put to death by order
of John the Terrible, was originally
buried under the porch of the Cathe-
dml of the Transfiguration, but in
1652 they were removed to the Cathe-
dral of the Assumption at Moscow. A
part of the relics of the saint were,
however, left in the monastery, where
they lie in the slirine which was made
for them in 1646. The Ikonostas was
put up in 1697, by order of Peter the
Great, as seen from an inscription
above it. Near the catliedral are two
chapels, built in 1753, and containing
the tombs of Germanicus and of other
reverend fathers of local repute. 2.
The Cathedral of the Assumption,
built of stone, together with a refec-
tory by St. Philip, in 1552, and con-
secrated by him in 1557 ; in the upper
part of this church are two altars
which were restored after a fire that
occurred in 1717. 3. The Church
of Nicholas Thormaturgus, built of
stone, and consecrated about 1590.
4. The Church of the Annunciation,
founded 1596, consecrated 1601, and
restored after a fire in 1745. 5. The
Church of the Metropolitan Philip,
built 1687, renovated 1798. And 6.
A church outside the wall of the
monastery, in the cemetery, and dedi-
cated to Onuphrius the Great ; conse-
cmted 1667 ; the belfry, constructed in
1777, is of a height of 20 fms.
The Sacristy is one of the richest in
Kussia, being full of valuable gifts
made by various sovereigns and
nobles. Among other objects of great
price are the vestments, covered with
pearls of unusual size, given in 1550
by John IV. (Terrible), and a gold
cross with relics, adorned with pearls
and precious stones, the gift of the
same Tsar in 1558 ; a silver shrine,
weighing 25 lbs., made in 1766 ; an-
other shrine, presented by the Grand
Duke Constantine in 1845, and a large
copy of the Evangelists, weighing
about 18 lbs., in a binding of silver-
gilt. The following other treasures
will be viewed with interest :— 1. The
white linen chasuble of Zosimus, pre-
sented to him by Archbishop Jonas of
Novgorod, and in which St. Philip had
said mass ; this venerable garment is
still worn on great occasions by the
Archimandrite of the monastery ; 2.
The Psalter of Zosimus, mended by
St. Philip, and an image of the Holy
Virgin, brought to Solovetsk island by
Sabbatheus; 3. The armour of the
followers of Abraham Palytsin, who,
though a monk, wa.s one of the most
active agents in the war that termi-
nated in the expulsion of the Poles
from Moscow in 1613 ; 4. The swords
of Prince Michael Skopin-Shuiski, and
of Prince Pojarski, presented by him-
self, and preserved in a scablmrd of
silver-gilt, and studded with precious
stones — (for the history of those
princes, vide Historical Notic^ ; 5.
Many original charters of the Veche
(or Wittenegamote) of Novgorod and
of Martha the Possadnitsa, or elected
governor of that republic, granting
lands to the monastery ; and 6. A
large collection of ancient Russian
and otlier weapons, and of banners
bearing the emblem of the cross.
Very tolerable accommodation will
be found at the monastery, and the
traveller who comes provided with an
introduction to the archimandrite,
easily obtained through the British
residents at Archangel, will find a
stay of two days at Solovetsk Monas-
tery both pleasant and instructive.
2. Ex^mrnon to Kem,
A tourist who will go as far as
Solovetsk may as well proceed by the
steamer which leaves the monastery
once a week for Kem, an interesting
settlement of the Staroveri or Old-
Believer sect, who pursue the avoca-
tion of fishermen, and to whom indeed
the greater part of the fishing stations
and vessels in the White Sea belong.
Kem.— Lat. 64° 56' N. Pop. 1750.
Distant 280 v. by sea and 521 v. by
land from Archangel.
This town is very prettily situated
Bossia.
Boute 3 . — Onega — Kargopol.
161
on the river Kem, which falls into
the White Sea on its W. shore. In
the 15th centy. it belonged to Martha,
the *• Possadnitsa " of Novgorod, who
in 1450 mfide a gift of it to the Solo-
vetsk monastery. The Finns took it
in 1580, when the Voevode of Solo-
vetsk and many Streltsi were killed.
In 1590 the Swedes took possession
of the entire district. A wooden for-
tress, erected in 1657 by the monks
on Lep island at the niouth of the
Kem, was destroyed by inundations
that occurred in 1749 and 1763.
The inhabitants are almost exclu-
sively occupied in summer in the
herring and cod fisheries, the women
alone remaining in possession of the
town. During the long absence of
their husbands, however, they fre-
quently make pilgrimages to the
shrines of Solovetsk. As the inhabi-
tants of the Kem district principally
consist of Carets and Lopare the
traveller will have an excellent oppor-
tunity of studying the characteristics
of l£o8e northern races; and the
excursion might be made still more
interesting by returning via Onega,
and ascending the Onega river to
Kargopol« instead of posting to the
latter town from Archangel.
3. Sxeurgion from Kem to Onega,
Should the steamer not touch at
Onega on her return from Kem, the
traveller can proceed by the high road
to Archanget the distance between
Kem and Onega being 289 v., and
that to Archangel from Onega 232 v.
Onega is a place of some trade par-
ticularly in timber. An English
company has for m^ny years had a
concession for cutting and exporting
timber fiom this district. The com-
pany has 3 saw-mills — 2 on the river
Ponga and one on the Anda, tribu-
taries of the Onega, which is a very
fine and broad stream, 400 v. in
length from Kargopol, in the vicinity
of which town it takes its rise.
The town is supposed to have been
founded in the 15th centy., but its
existence can only be authentically
traced back to the end of the 17th
centy. It has a Pop. of 2000, and 2
chs. Here the traveller will be able
to get advice and assistance from the
agents of the English Timber Com-
pany, who will gladly put him on his
way up the Onega river, the rapids of
which,combined with very fine scenery,
are well worthy of being visited.
It is almost needless to say that
game of every kind abounds through-
out this part of the country, but the
proper time for killing it is of course
the winter, when only the most enthu-
siastic sportsman would venture to
carry his gun so far and to such a
climate.
Journey to 8t Petersburg,
Having provided himself with a
Podorojna, and attended strictly to
all the injunctions of his countrymen
at Archangel, who will most willingly
give him every assistance in their
power, the traveller bent on posting
to St. Petersburg must resign him-
self to the jolting of a tarantass and
the rapid driving of a yamstchik. A
considerable part of the bad road (or
150 V.) may, however, be avoided by
taking advantage of a steamer which
runs regularly up the Dvina to Siva,
the 7th post station from Archangel.
Thirteen stations beyond Siya, or
445 V. from Archangel, is the tovm of
Kabgopol, where the traveller will
rest.
As regards Hotels, the general rule
in Bussia applies: — There are none
at Kargopol; but the traveller will
find a night's lodging at the post .
station.
History of the Toxon. Situated in
Lat. 61' 30" N., in province of Olonetz,
on left bank of Onega River. Pop.
2000.
Kargopol is one of the most ancient
colonies in the N. of Russia, but tho
first authentic mention of the town
occurs in 1447, when Prince Dmitry
162
Boute 3. — Vytegror — Petrozavodsh
Sect. I.
Shemiajka and Prince John Mojaisky,
sought refuge in it from the persecu-
tion of the Tsar, Basil the Dark.
From a charter, dated 1536, it appears
that Kargopol was at that time a
pUce of considerable traffic, and pos-
sessed of a privilege for trading in
salt. In 1565, John the Terrible
ordered the supplies for his household
to be drawn from Kargopol, and he
left the town by will to his son John.
The Lithuanians and Poles set fire to
the outskirts in 1612, after three in-
effectual attempts to take the town
by assault, and it was again besieged
for a considerable time by Cossacks
and lawless bands from the Volga.
As a place of banishment, Kargopol
received in 1538 the Lady Agrippina
Cheliadnina, the governess of the
young Tsar John IV. At the in-
stance of the Shuiski faction she was
here made to take the veil. Solomonia,
the consort of the Grand Duke Basil
of Moscow, father of John the Terrible,
was imprisoned at Kargopol on ac-
count of her barrenness, in 1525. In
the reign of the Tsar Theodore, Prince
Anthony Shuiski was put to death
here, a.1). 1587. The wall of the old
fortress in which these state prisoners
were confined is still partly visible,
together with the remains of the moat,
on the banks of tlie river Onega.
There are 19 chs. within the town,
and a convent (the Uspenski or the
Assumption); but there is nothing
within them of any great note.
The inhabitants of Kargopol are
principally occupied in the dressing
of skins, of which about 2 millions are
annually sent to Nijni-Novgorod and
St. Petersburg. A market is held
every Sunday, in summer, when the
country people come in with their pro-
duce.
Continttaiion of Journey. Ten sta-
tions beyond is
Vytegra, district town in prov. of
Olonetz, 668 v. from Archangel, Lat.
61°. Pop. 2500.
This town is prettily situated on
both banks of a navigable river bear-
ing the same name. Until the reign
of Peter the Great it was only a station
or wharf for vessels laden with grain,
&c., but the Vytegra river having
later become pcui; of the •* canal sys-
tem " that unites the White Sea with
the Baltic, it was raised from the
rank of a village to that, of a town.
Vytegra has therefore no historical
interest, but to the geologist the
rugged banks of the river will offer
many attractions, being composed of
red sandstone of the Devonian forma-
tion, full' of fossil remains, particularly
of fishes. In the limestone- near
DeviatinsM will be found fossils of
Chaetetes radians, Leptxna hardremiSt
Cidaris romcus^ Natica Marissy &c.,
while in the sandstone specimens of
the Stigmaria ficoides abound.
Travellers are recommended to ter-
minate their land journey at Vyte-
gra, by crossing over in a boat to Vos-
nesenie, on the opposite side of the
lake of Onega (about 50 v.), and thence
taking steam to Lake Ladoga, which
will be reached by means of the river
Svir.
Excursion to Petrozavodsk.
I
After arriving at Vosnesenie the
more enterprising tourist will endea-
vour to reach Petrozavodsk, on the
western shore of Lake Onega, which
is 220 V. in length and about 75 in
breadth. Steamers run regularly
twice a week between St. Petersburg
and Petrozavodsk, touching at Vos-
nesenie. The entire voyage is made
in 2 days.
Petbozavodsk. — This town was
founded by Peter the Great, with the
view of developing the mineral re-
sources of that part of his empire.
The province of Olonetz is rich in
copper, iron, and mica, which were
worked in the earliest ages. It was
anciently called Corelia; and its in-
habitants, the Corels, embraced Chris-
tianity at the beginning of the 13th
centy. Oorelia was annexed to the
republic of Novgorod, which granted
permission to Dutch and other mer-
chants to cut wood and raise iron and
mica in the vicinity of the lake. Later
Enssia.
Boute 4. — Berlin to Beval.
163
the Swedes and Lithuanians made
frequent incursions.
The town of Petrozavodsk dates
from 1701, when Peter the Great es-
tablished there works for casting can-
non, but which were afterwards des-
troyed, and replaced by other works
completed in 1774. Guns continued,
nevertheless, to be imported into Hus-
sia at great expense from the Carron
Works in Scotland, owing probably to
the unsatisfactory state of the esta-
blishment on Lake Onega. In order
to improve the latter, Catherine II.
invited Charles Gascoigne, the ma-
nager of the Carron Works, to come
over and rebuild the gun-foimdry,
which he did in 1794, when the town
that had sprung up around it took
the name of Petrozavodsk. Gascoigne
was accompanied by two English arti-
zans, George Clarke and James Wilson,
who subsequently rose to great emin-
ence in the service of Russia. Guns
for the navy are to this day cast at
Petrozavodsk.
Continuation of Journey,
Returning in the steamer to Vos-
neseni^ the traveller, who does not
wish to go overland from Vytegra,
will continue his voyage down the
river Svir, which connects the lakes
of Ladoga and Onega. The steamer
will stop at Lodeinoe Pole (the Field
of Lodi), more than half way down
the river. This is a place of some
interest as the spot where Peter the
Great built his first galleys m 1702.
He superintended their building in
person, and subsequently employed
them in taking the fortress of Schliis-
selburg from the Swedes. A monu-
ment of cast iron marks the site of a
house in which Peter resided.
Emerging on Ladoga, the largest
lake in Europe, having an area of
336 sq. geog. m., and after a voyage of
some hours, the traveller wiU come in
sight of the grim fortress of Schliis-
selburg, where the river Neva takes
its rise. For a description of this
fortress, and of the course of the Neva,
viile Rte. 1, Excursion 6.
The overland route from Vytegra to
St. Petersburg passes through liodei-
no6 Pol^ (855| V. from Archangel)
and the town of Novaya Ladoga (957J
v.), in which there is nothing of in-
terest, except the canal and locks.
There are 23 stages between Vytegra
and St. Petersburg, the longest being
27^ V. and the shortest 10| v. The
town of Schliisselberg, through which
the traveller will pass during the last
part of his journey, is 60 v. from St.
Petersburg by the post road.
ROUTE 4.
BEBLIN TO BEVAL, BY RIGA, DORrAT, ETC.
8ea Boute. — ^Riga may be reached
by steamers from Hull, Stettiu, and
Lubeck.
Overland Boute. — A branch line from
Diinaburg (vide Rte. 1) places Riga
in direct rly. communication witli
St. Petersburg, Moscow, and the
Southern lines, as well as with the net-
work of European rlys.
Fare from London {via Calais) to
Riga : 1st class, 324 francs 80 c. ; 1st
and 2nd (mixed), 261 fr. 5 c.
164
Boute 4» — Livonia.
Sect. I.
Stations : —
Dunaburg (vide Ete. 1).
Lixna, 9f m. from Dunaburg,
Kreutzburg, 65 m. Train stops 62
min.
Eomershof, 91 m. Train stops 10 min.
'RiGA.—Hotels : Hotel de St. Peters-
burg in the Castle Square ; Stadt
London, in the centre of the old town ;
Hotel du Nord, near the English ch.
There is room for improvement in
the hotels at Biga, but the prices are
lower than those of the best hotels at
St. Petersburg.
Cafd": Kriipsch's, nearthe Exchange.
Biga, the capital of Livonia, with a
Pop. of 100,000, is the chief seat of the
political, milltajy, and administrative
government of the 3 Baltic provinces,
Livonia, Esthonia, and Gourland, as
well as the centre of their commercial
and industrial activity.
Livonia was almost unknown to the
rest of Europe until 1158, when some
Bremen merchants on a trading voyage
to Wisby, on the Swedish island of
Gottland, were wrecked on theLivonian
coast, and soon after formed settle-
ments on it, and established commercial
relations with the inhabitants. Mein-
hardt, an Augustine monk, converted
the Livonians to Christianity in 1168,
and became their first bishop, but it
was not until the time of Albert, the
4th bishop, that the Christian religion
was fully introduced. Albert built
Biga AJD. 1200, and made it the seat
of the bishopric. Towards the end of
that cent, the Baltic provinces were
seized by King Knut VI. of Denmark ;
they were subsequently sold by Wal-
demar IIL, one of his descendants, to
the Order of the Brethren of the Cross
and Sword (Schwert briider) founded
by Bishop Albert.
In the full spirit of the name they
bore, these warlike adventurers speedily
enlarged the territories of the Hanse
Towns. Ignorant of the language, and
despising the habits of the natives,
their principal weapon of conversion to
the true faith was the sword by which
they held their footing on the shores of
'he east sea; though on one occmon
the Bishop of Riga is reported to have
edified the minds of heathen Wends by
a dramatic representation of a variefy
of scenes from the Bible. All writers
concur in describing the cruelties prac-
tised upon the unbelieving natives
by these Christian warriors as of the
most revolting and barbarous descrip-
tion. They were not long permitted
to pursue their career of conquest and
tyranny with impunity. On the north,
they were compelled to recoil before
the arms of the Dane ; while the Rus-
sians, alarmed at the near approach of
such formidable neighbours, roused the
natives to avenge the wi'ongs of half
a century of oppression, and the flame
of insurrection spread far and wide
throughout Livonia and Esthonia.
Many Gemians were cut off by the
insurgents ; but at lenpfth Bishop Bern-
hard, falling upon their tumultuous
forces with Jiis disciplined chivalry,
routed the Wends (the aborigines of
Livonia) and tlieir allies, and slew
them mercilessly. The Russian town
of Dorpat was taken, and a German
colony established there (a.d. 1220).
The capture of the isle of Oesel, to
the rocky &stnesses of which the best
and bravest of the Livonians had re-
tired as a last refuge, and the voluntary
conversion of the Courlanders, esta-
blished the power of the brotherhood.
The Emperor Frederick II. (1230)
conferred the conquered provinces as
an imperial fief on Valquin, the grand
master of the order, and everything
seemed to promise the rapid rise of a
mighty kingdom, when a sudden attack
of the Lithuanians laid low the grand
master and his hopes of conquest, and
nearly annihilated the entire forces of
the brotherhood. The scanty relics
of this powerful body now called for aid
on their brethem the Teutonic knights,
who were anxiously seeking a fairer
field for military achievements than the
East, where they were alike harassed
by the open violence of the Mussulman,
and the jealousy of the rival orders, the
Templars and Hospitallers. The pre-
sence 6f these hardy warriors restored
the Christians to their former superi-
ority in the field, and these new comers
80on riv9.1lGd the knights of the Cross
Bussia.
Boute 4. — Biga.
165
and Sword in craelty, burning whole
villages that had relapsed into idolatry,
and making, in the words of one of
their own bishops, ** out of free-bom
men the most wretched slaves." As
allies of the Poles, they built on the
Yistola the fort of Nassau, and, sal-
lying forth from thence, took by storm
the holy oak of Thorn, the chief sanc-
tuary of the Prussians, and beneath its
far-spreading arms, as in a citadel, the
knights defended themselves against
the frantic attacks of the pagans. A
general rising of the natives, and a war
of extermination, reduced their numer-
ous forces to a few scanty troops, and
their ample domains to 3 strongholds ;
and, after various alternate defeats and
victories, they were rescued from entire
destruction by a crusade, under the
command of the Bohemian monarch,
Ottokar the Great, who founded the
city of Konigsberg (a.d. 1260), and
gave for a time new life and vigour
to the falling fortunes of the nor^em
chivalry.
Internal dissensions, and the conse-
quent establishment of a second grand
master, who held his seat at Mergent-
heim, weakened the growing power of
the reviving brotherhood, and the
fatal battle of Tannenbei^g (1410) gave
a mortal blow to the importance of
this " unnatural institution ;" but the
knights still retained the whole eastern
coast of the Baltic, from the Narova to
the Vistula, and it was not until the
end of the 15th cent, that the arms
of Poland compelled them finally to
relinquish their claims to the district
of eastern and western Prussia. The
ancient spirit of the order awoke once
again in tbe Grand Master Tlettenberg,
who routed the Russians in 1502, and
compelled the Tsar to agree to a truce
for 50 years ; but the stipulated time
had no sooner elapsed than the Rus-
sians again invaded them, and, too
feeble any longer to resist such power-
fid enemies, the knights were glad to
purchase peace and the undisturbed
possession of the province of Gourland
as a fief of the Polish crown by sur-
rendering Esthonia to Sweden, and
Livonia to the Poles, while the districts
of Narva and Dorpat were incorporated
with the empire of Russia. Still the
brotherhood existed. Without import-
ance as an independent power, but
valuable as an ally, its friendship was
sought and courted in the various
intrigues and commotions of the Rus-
sian throne during the early part of
the 18th cent
Esthonia and Livonia were finally
given up by Sweden to Russia in 1721,
at the peace of Nystadt. By the terms
of the capitulation which preceded that
treaty, the Protestant religion and the
German language were guarp,nteed, as
well as all ancient rights and privi-
Courland was incorporated with
Russia in 1795, at the 3rd partition
of Poland ; Peter Biren, the last duke,
son of the favourite of the Empress
Anne of Russia, receiving as compen-
sation the sum of 2,000,000 rubles
pension for life.
The town of Riga has been much
embellished and enlarged since the
removal of the lines of fortification in
1858. It has quite the appearance of
a German town. The majority of the
inhabitants are German Protestants;
Russians are next in numerical im-
portance. There are many Letts and
Poles ; among the foreigners the Eng-
lish are the most numerous. Riga is
the second commercial city of Russia.
During the season 2000 ships load
opposite the town. The principal ex-
ports are grain, linseed, flax, hemp,
and wood; the chief imports, salt,
herrings, coal, iron, machinery, colonial
goods, &c. There are 70 factories, mills,
and other similar establishments in
the town and suburbs.
The principal learned and scientific
societies are the Society of History and
Antiquities of the Baltic Provinces, the
Society of Naturalists, and the Society
of Praictical Literature. There are a
high school for technical science, two
gymnasiums, a school of navigation,
and several other public and private
schools. The town is very richly en-
dowed with charitable institutions,
many of which are of ancient founda-
tion ; amongst the number are an ex-
166
BotUe 4. — Biga,
Sect I.
cellent orphan asylum, and several
asylums for widows of citizens in re-
duced circumstances.
Music is the most cultivated of the
fine arts.
A good operatic company, a musical
society, and 5 singing clubs are among
the amusements of Biga.
The sights of the town are —
The Imperial Castle, a massive build-
ing with 2 crenelated towers, dating
from the time of the grand masters of
the Teutonic Knights. Over an arch-
way in the court is a stone statue of
the Virgin Mary, .protectress of the
German orders; also, the statue of
the celebrated Grand Master Walter
von* Tlettenberg. The castle is now
the residence of the Governor General.
In front of the castle is a monument
raised by the citizens in honour of
Alexander I., to commemorate the
campaign of 1812.
The Citadelj with an arsenal, mili-
tary barracks, and a handsome Busso-
Greek cathedral, dedicated to St. Peter
and St. Paul.
The Mansion House, containing most
interesting archives connected with
the ancient history of the town.
TheB^aZZo/^eJ5ZacfcAeacfo(8chwartz-
hauptem), one of the oldest buildings
in the town, built early in 1200, and
often restored. This is a most interest-
ing building, not only from its peculiar
style, but also from the relics which it
contains, including a curious collection
of silver plate.
The Guildhalls of the great and small
guilds; handsome modern buildings in
the Gothic and medisBval styles, con-
taining many curiosities of the middle
ages.
The Cathedral Church, a large build-
ing of the 13th and 14th centy., con-
taining the tomb of the 1st bishop of
Livonia.
St, Peter*s Church, with a lofty spire
of a peculiarly bold construction, from
the galleries of which extensive views
may be obtained.
The English Churchy a building in
'^e purest style, where service is per-
led by a resident clergyman. Built
and entirely supported by the English
merchants established at Biga.
The Toum Library, containing many
rare manuscripts.
The Museum, containing a fine arch-
iBological and zoological collection.
The Braderlow Gallery of PainHngs,
containing many originals by cele-
brated masters.
The Bitter-house, containing the
knights* hall, and the coats of arms
of all the Livonian nobility, who hold
their parliaments there.
* The Exchange, a handsome new
buildiug, in the Florentine style.
The Theatre, an imposing building
of the handsomest description, open
during nearly the whole year.
There are also Club-houses, where
balls are given during the winter sea-
son, and where the national and foreign
newspapers are to be found for the use
of the members or of visitors, who can
be introduced by a member free of all
payment.
Outside the town are the Imperial
PMic Gardens, with an elm planted
by Peter the Great; and the Wohr-
man Park, with an establishment for
preparing and dispensing mineral
waters, which are taken early on sum-
mer mornings to the music of a good
band.
The communication with the left
bank of the river, on which are the
Mittau suburb, the herring wharf,
&c., is in summer maintained by a
floating bridge, or long raft, about
2000 ft. long, across which goods are
passed from the large flat-bottomed
barges that arrive in spring from the
interior of the country, and which
anchor on the upper side of the bridge.
The ships frequenting this port lie
in rows, head or stem on, at the lower
side of the bridge.
Biga is supplied vrifb. water and gas
by establishments under the manage-
ment of a town committee.
The principal objects of interest in
the neighbourhood are the Fortress of
DUnamunde, 1 hour from Biga by
steamboat, and the mole opposite,
built to maintain deep water at the
mouth of the Dwina; the large Mili-
BusBia.
Boute 4, — Diiheln — Mitiau — Dorpat
167
tary Hospital and House of Correction^
at Alexander's Hohe ; the old Buim of
Kdkenhusen Castle^ on the Dwina,
standing in the midst of peculiarly
striking and beautiful scenery; ana
the Livonian Stoitzerland, with the 3
old castles of Cremon, Tryden, and
Segewold, all in situations of great
beauty. These are about 4 hours'
drive from Biga, along a good road.
Diiheln Stat., a watering-place situ-
ated on the Gourland river Aa, distant
about 15 Eng. m. from Biga, with
which place there is frequent daily
communication by steamboat. Fare |
silver rouble ; length of passage about
2 hrs. Diibeln is much frequented for
sea-bathing during the season, from
July to September inclusive, by visitors
from the neighbouring provinces, as
well as from St. Petersburg and other
parts of Bussia. The village, consist-
ing of small wooden houses, with a
few of* a better class interspersed, is
unfortunately situated in a sandy
hollow on the bank of the river,
and distant I m. from the sea, from
which it is separated by a low hill
covered with pine-trees. No houses
are allowed to be built overlooking
the sea. The hours of bathing for
ladies and gentlemen respectively are
regulated by the ringing of a bell,
and any infringement by the one sex
on the hours sacred to the other is
visited with a severe fine when de-
tected. To those accustomed to wit-
ness the promiscuous bathing of the
sexes in the immediate vicinity of Biga,
this phase of Busso-German modesty
appears somewhat exaggerated.
Diligences run daily from Biga to
Mittau (3 hours), Dorpat (26 hours),
and other towns in Livonia. Steamers
ply twice a week to Beval and St.
Petersburg J and other places. A rail-
way is in course of construction from
Biga to Mittau.
26,000), the capital of Courland, was
founded in 1266, when the Grand
Master, Conrad Medem, built a castle
on the site of the present palace, the
residence in 1798 and 1804 of Louw
XVin., as Count de Lille. This re^
markable building was almost entirely
built by Biren, the favourite of the
Empress Anne, when he was chosen
" chief of the Courish nobility." There
is a museum and a library contain-
ing 7500 vols. ; a gymnasiiun, with a
library of 30,000 vols. ; and many bene-
volent institutions. The carnival is
the gayest period of the year at
Mittau.
2. Dorpat, Hotel de St. Peters-
burg; Hotel de Londres. Pop. 14,000.
The history of this town is a stirring
and a stormy one. The Bussians from
the E., the Teutonic Knights from the
W., the quarrels of both with the
aboriginal Esthonians, and the bloody
wars between the Bussians, Swedes,
and Poles, more than once laid it in
ashes. Its University was founded by
Gustavus Adolphus in 1632, the year
of his death, and, after various vicissi-
tudes, it took refuge in Sweden, to
avoid the Bussian army in 1710. Pro-
fessors, students, libraries, museums —
all departed ; and returned only under
the auspices of the Emperor Alexander
L in 1802.
Among the professors one name may
be cited of great celebrity, that of the
late Otto Struve, whose astronomical
labours have procured him a well-
earned reputation throughout Europe.
The observatory on the Domberg, from
the character of the work done there,
is ranked among the most celebrated
institutions in this branch of science,
and well worthy of being seen. Here
is a great refracting telescope, the
work of Frauenhofer, mounted in such
a manner that the iron roof, revolving
round a vertical line, affords complete
protection from the weather without
hindering the view of any point in
the heavens. This was designed and
constructed by Mr. Parrot, and so
beautifully is it executed that one
hand is enough to impel and guide
the machinery which moves the tele-
scope and roof. The Emperor Alex-
ander I. presented the telescope to the
168
Boute 4. — Eathmta.
Sect I.
University. Some of the apparatus
which was used in measuring a por-
tion of the meridian of Borpat is to be
seen here. The library is curiously
situated in the ruins of the old Dom ;
the views from hence are very fine. The
broad crown of the hill, adorned by
nimierous avenues of trees, is called
Cathedral Place; the ruins of a ch.,
destroyed in 1775, by a fire which con-
sumed nearly thewhole town, explains
the origin of this name. On the
DomWg are likewise the Schools of
Anatomy and Natural History, the
museums, &o. The philosophical in-
struments are remarkable for their hav-
ing been made for the most part by a
Eussian artisan of the name of Samoil-
off. Of all the collections of the Univer-
sity, that of the Botanical Garden is the
most complete ; it contains more than
18,000 plants, some of which are not to
be found in the other botanical gardens
of Europe. Dorpat, like Reval, had
once its corps of Schwarzen Haupter,
or *' association of citizens for the de-
fence of the city ;" it is now merely a
convivial club. Among its treasures
is a magnificent goblet of glass and
gold, 2 ft. high, on the side of which
are engraved a beetle, a hmnming-
bird, and a butterfly. With the ex-
ception of the Dom no vestige remains
at Dorpat of the ancient Gothic nucleus
of the town ; all is new. The fortifi-
cations have been converted into agree-
able promenades. A granite bridge
over the Embach, which is navigable
up to Dorpat, adds not a little to the
appearance of the town.
3. Beoal (Pop. 25,000). SoteU : the
Hotel WittestSrand ; and the Lion
d'Or.
Esthonia, too insignificant a country
to govern itself, but, from its position,
too tempting a prize to be disregarded
by neighbouring states, has been
roughly used by every northern power,
and has exhibited scenes of sufiering
and discord of which the history of the
iwn of Reval, its capital, is siijBficient
give an epitome. The first buildings
recorded as occupying its present site
were erected by Eric XIV., King of
Denmark.
"These consisted of a monastery
dedicated to the archangel Michael,
afterwards transformed into a convent
of Cistercian nuns, the ruins of which
are still standing, and whence the Cis-
tempfortej one of the gates of the town,
derives its name ; and a fortress called
Lindanisse, and by the peasants Dani-
Linna, or Danish town, whence the
contraction Tallina, the Esthonian
name for Beval at the present day.
To these were added other buildings :
but it was not unta 1219 that Walde-
mar II. of Denmark pulled down the
fortress, probably on the Dome Hill,
and set about erecting a regular town.
From this time it appears to have been
called Reval, about the derivation of
which many have disagreed, but which
appears with the most probability to
arise from the Danish word Refwell, a
reef. Reval now became of sufficient
importance to be quarrelled for by
the Danes, the Swedes, the Livonian
Knights, then recently united with
the Grand Order of the Teutonic
Knights, and even by the Pope him-
self, who, however, seems to have
thrown his interest into the scale of
Denmark, by which, in 1240, it was
elevated to the seat of a bishopric.
To this was shortly after added (1284)
the privileges of a Hanseatic town.
Trade now began to flourish, and was
further encouraged during the regency
of the Queen Mother of Denmark,
Margaretta Sambiria, who selected
Esthonia as her WittwensitZy confirmed
and increased the privileges of Reval,
endowed it with the right of coinage,
&c., and enfranchised it from all outer
interference. These privileges, how-
ever, did not extend to the Dome,
where the Stadthalter, or governor,
resided, and which, as it still con-
tinues, was independent of the town,
and not considered Reval. But even
this short age of gold was disturbed
by many bitter quarrels about rights
of boundary, &c., which have by no
means fallen into disuse. This fertile
province of Esthonia, with its wealthy
little capital, from being a widow's
Bussia.
Boute 4. — Beval.
169
dowry, became a bride's portion, and
in right of his wife, a princess of
Sweden, was possessed for some time
by a Markgraf of Brandenburg. After
that it again changed hands, and was
at length formally sold, in 1347, to
the Grand Master of the Teutonic
Order at Marienburg, and given, at
first in trust, and ai^erwards as an
independent possession, to his ally,
the Master of the Order in Livonia."
The luxurious habits of the nobility
fell hard upon the neglected serf
peasant, and an old saying still exists,
that "Esthonia was an Elysimn for
the nobility, a heaven for the clergy,
a mine of gold for the stranger, but a
hell for the peasant," who, agreeably
to the history of most republics, was
ground down to the most abject
poverty. Consequently, in 1560, the
peasants rose in immense numbers,
attacked castles and monasteries, kill-
ing and slaying all before them, and
menaced Beval, where many of their
lords had taken refuge, so seriously,
that with Bussia, always a troublesome
neighbour, invading their frontier, and
unaided by their knights, who were
fettered with debts, and had battles
enough of their own to fight at this
time, the Bevalensers and the rest of
the province formally threw off the
dominion of the Order, and, calling
over the aid of Sweden, took the oaths
of allegiance to King Eric XIV. in
1561.
*• The manner in which the provinces
of Esthonia and Livonia were wrested
from Charles XIL of Sweden, by Peter
the Great, is too well known to need
repetition. The Esthonians esteem
themselves fortunate in being united
to Bussia under so enlightened a Tsar,
who left them all their privileges, and
took much delight in his new ac-
quisition, visiting Beval several times,
and instituting public improvements.
Beval indeed has received visits from
all the sovereigns in turn, who have
paid due homage to its beauty and
salubrity; and also, among similar
events, remembers with pride the visit
of Nelson.
" The province has been allowed to
retain its own jurisdiction, which is ad-
ministered by 12 Landr'athe, a strictly
honorary oflBlce, dating from the 14th
centy. The most distinguished names
which fill the pages of Esthonian
history, either in an episcopal, military,
or civil capacity, are those of the Barons
Meyendorf, Uxkiill (the Esthonian
name for the same, but now a distinct
family), Bosen, and Ungem, all of
which still exist in very flourishing
condition, with many others, of more
recent origin, from Sweden, Bussia,
and all parts of Europe, including
even the names of Douglas, O'Bourke,
and Lewis of Menar, whicli stand hero
in friendly propinquity, their British
origin being overlooked in their esta-
blished Esthonian antiquity.
" I will only add that Beval and
Esthonia — for their histories blend too
much to be separated — were more or
less under the dominion of Denmark
until 1347, under that of the Order of
Schwerdt-brUder until 1561, under
Sweden until 1700, since when they
have proved themselves most loyal sub-
jects to Bussia."
Beval is divided into [2 partsi the
upper and lower town; the former,
perched on the top of a rocky emi-
nence, about a mile in circumference,
encloses within its old Gothic walls
the Dom, the castle, with the residence
of the governor, the commandant*8
house, the gymnasium, and the houses
of the nobility. The whole of this
quarter is called the Dom, and no
plebeian is permitted to possess ground
on this aristocratic reef of rocks. The
lower part, the descent to which is
very steep, at one spot almost danger-
ous for carriages, is of considerable
extent, and in the broad streets,
stretching to the flat sandy shore of
the harbour, are the dweUings and
warehouses of the merchants, the rath-
house, the guild-house, the bank, the
barracks, and the theatre.
The diurches of Beval include 5
Bussian, 1 Swedish, 1 Danish, and 4
German. The Lutheran are of great
antiquity. The Olaikirche, originally
built in 1329, was struck and partially
consumed by lightning no less than 8.
170
Boute 4. — Beval.
Sect. I.
times ; and it was only in 1840 that it
rose from the ashes in which it was laid
in 1820.
" Its archives and library, however,
preserve an unbroken history; and
many of its architectural ornaments,
coeval with its earliest erection, have
been saved from the flames. Among
the former is a piece of sculpture of
great richness, consisting of two wide
niches, the upper one empty, the lower
occupied by a skeleton, with a toad
resting on the body and a serpent
crawling out of the ear— supposed to
typify the destruction of an idol image
recorded to have been filled with these
reptiles ; and with a gorgeous breadth
of stone-work in 8 partitions around,
exhibiting the triumph of Christianity
in the Passion of our Saviour, and
other parts of the New Testament.
This bears date 1513. The tower, re-
built precisely on the former scale and
form, is about 250 ft. high, and serves
as a landmark in navigation. This
edifice, the cathedral church of the
lower town, is in pure early Gothic,
with lancet windows of great beauty,
and dedicated to St. Olai, a canonized
King of Norway, who mounted the
throne at the beginning of the 11th
centy., and first introduced Christian-
ity among the Norwegians.
" The next ch. of importance is that
of 8L Nicholas— q. large, 3-aisled struc-
ture with a massive square tower —
built by Bishop Nicholas in 1317.
This appears to have eluded the zeal
of the iconoclasts of reforming times,
and possesses many relics of Boman
Catholic times. The most interesting
are the pictures of the altar, especially
2 wing paintings containing small
half-length figures of bishops, car-
dinals, priests, and nuns — ^3 on each
side — in Holbein's time and manner,
on a blue ground, and of great beauty.
Also a picture, placed for better light-
ing at the back of the altar— a Cruci-
fixion, including the 2 thieves, with
town and mountains in the back-
ground, and a procession of equestrian
figures entering the gate. This is of
singular beauty of expression and
""rm, though much injured by recent
ovations— of the school of Raphael,
and especially in the manner of An-
drea del Salerno.
" Immediately at the entrance of the
ch., on the right hand, is a representa-
tion of the oft-repeated Dance of Death
—coinciding not only in age and ar-
rangement, but also word for word in
the Plat Deutsch verses beneath, with
the same subject in St. Mary's church
at Liibeck.
" The chapels of some of the chief
nobility, with massive iron gates and
richly adorned with armorial bearings,
are attached to this ch., though all in
a very neglected state. The Eosen
chapel is now occupied by the unburied
body of a prince, who expiates in this
form a life of extravagance. The
Duke de Croy — a prince of the Roman
Empire, Markgraf of Mount Comette,
and of other fiefs, &c., and descended
from the Kings of Hungary — after
serving with distinction under the
Emperor of Austria and King of
Poland, passed over to the service of
Peter the Great, obtained the com-
mand pf the Russian army, and was
defeated by Charles XII. at the battle
of Narva. Fearing the Tsar's resent-
ment, he surrendered to the enemy,
and was sent a prisoner at large to
Reval, at that epoch under the sway
of Sweden. Here, indulging a passion
for ostentation, he managed to spend
so much, that, though only a few
years elapsed between his removal to
Reval and his death, the residue of his
fortune was unequal to meet his debts ;
upon which the numerous creditors,
availing themselves of an old law,
which refuses the rites of sepulture to
insolvent debtors, combined to deny
him a Christian burial, and the body
was placed in a cellar in the precincts
of this ch. It remained in its unoon-
secrated abode until, accident having
discovered it, in 1819, in a state of
perfect preservation owing to the anti-
putrescent properties of the cold, it was
removed into the Rosen chapel, and
now ranks among the lions of this
little capital. The corpse is attired in
a rich suit of black velvet and white
satin, equally uninjured by the tooth •
of time — ^with si& stockings, full
curled wig, and a ruff of the most
Bussia.
Boute 4. — Beval,
171
exquisite point lace, which any mo-
dem grand duchess might also ap-
prove. The remains are those of a
small man, with an aristocratic line of
countenance.
** In respect of antiquity the Estho-
nian chul-ch bears off the palm in
Reval, being mentioned by Jean
Bishop of Reval, when he -granted to
the city the * Jus ecclesiasticum et epis-
copale, after the form of the Liibeck
statute, in 1284, a time when St. Olai
and St. Nicholas did not exist.
" The Russian church, or one adapted
to the Russian service in later times,
is also of great antiquity, but has been
altered to the external type of all
Greek places of worship.
• " The Hdtd de ViUe has been also
renovated with windows of modem
form. AVithin, the magisterial chair is
still held in the empty and worn-out
forms of days of more importance;
and the eflBgy of the burgher who had
his tongue cut out for divulging a
state secret, warns hi^ successors of
less responsible times to be more dis-
creet.
** Several Guildhalls, with groined
roofs, tell of those corporations of mer-
chants who here met for business or
feasting, and are now passed away
with the commerce of Reval : with the
exception, however, of the corps of the
Schwarzen Haupter, les Freres tetes-
noires—so called probably from their
patron saint, St. Mauritius— a military
club of young merchants formed in
1343 for the defence of the city. These
were highly considered— were endowed
by the Masters of the Order with the
rank and privileges of a military body
— wore a peculiar uniform— had par-
ticular inauguration ceremonies and
usages— and bore their banner, ^ aui
vincendum aut nwriendum,* on many
occasions most gallantly against the
numberless foes who coveted the riches
of Reval.
" The chief edifice where they held
their meetings is adorned in front
with a Moor*s head and other armorial
pieces of scidpture ; but within it has
been stripped of all antiquity, except-
ing the archives of the Order, and
portraits of the various crowned heads
J2t«tia.— 1868.
and Masters of the Livonian Order
who have held Esthonia in their sway.
The altarpiece from the convent of St.
Brigitta — a magnificent ruin upon the
sea-coast in full view of Reval — is also
placed here, being a piece in 3 com-
partments, in the Van Eyck manner,
comprising God the Father, with the
Infant Saviour in the centre — the Vir-
gin on the one hand, the Baptist on
the other— and greatly recalling por-
tions of the famous altarpiece painted
for St. Bavon's church at Ghent. On
the back of the two wings, and closing
over the centre-piece, is the subject of
the Annunciation — 2 graceful figures
in grey, of later Italian date."
" This city is further strewn with
the ruined remains of convents and
monasteries of considerable interest,
though too much choked with parasi-
tical buildings to be seen to any ad-
vantage. The outer circumference is
bound in with walls and toujers of
every irregular form, most of which
have significant names, as for instance,
* der lange Serrmann* a singularly
beautiful and lofty circular tower
crowning the Dom; and ''die dicke
Marguerite* a corpulent erection lower
in the town.
"The Dom is equally stored with
traces of olden times, consisting of the
old CastU, which encloses an immense
quadrangle, and is in part appropriated
to the governor's residence ; the Dom
Church, a building of incongruous
architecture, is filled with tombs of
great interest, of the Counts de la
Gardie, Thum, Hom, &c., beneath
which lie the vaults of several cor-
porations of trade, variously indicated
— the shbemakers' company by the
bas-relief of a colossal boot in the
Eavement — the butchers' by an ox's
eady &c. Further on is the Bitter-
schafts Saus, or Hotel de la Noblesse,
where the Landrathe assemble, the
Landtag is held, and all the business
connected with the aristocracy of the
province conducted. Every family of
matriculated nobility has here its
shield of arms and date of patent;
while on tablets of white marble are
inscribed the names of all the noble
Esthonians who served in the French
172
Route 4. — Bevd,^
Sect. I.
campaign, and on tables of black
marble the names of those who fell ;
and truly Esthonia has not been
niggard of her best blood.
*^ Beval Is entered by 7 gates ; they
are all picturesque erections, decorated
with various historical mementos, the
arms of the Danish domination, the
simple cross of the order on the mtmi-
oipal shield of the city«
^* In the summer there is an annual
faiTf called the Jcthrmarhtt which is
held beneath the old ehn-trees before
the church of Sti Nicholas — a most
interesting scene to the stranger — and
forms the morning lounge of the inha-*
bitants during that season of the year.
In the evening Caiherinthal is the
&ivourite promenadei This is an Im-'
perial LustsdfdoiBf or palace, at a little
distance from the town, surrounded
with fine trees and well-kept grounds,
or what is here termed ' ein superber
Park,* which during 6 weeks of the
Buomier months is thronged with
fashionable groups, who eat ices, drink
chocolate, taDc scandal, and make love,
as people do elsewhere.
" This residence^ which is literally
a bower of verdure redeemed from a
waste of sand, is the pleasant legacy
of Peter the Great to the city of Reval.
Being a frequent visitor to Beval, it
was^ here that he first erected a modest
little house beneath the rocks of the
Laaksberg, from the windows of which
he could overlook his infant fleet
riding at anchor in the bay, and which
still exists^ But a few years previous
to his deaths the present palace, within
a stone's throw of his Dutch house, —
for aU Peter the Great's own private
domiciles testify whence he drew his
first ideas of comfort, — was construct-
ed, which he surrounded with plea-
sure-grounds, and presented to his
consort by the name of Gatherinthal.
It has been the temporary sqjoum of
all the crowned heads of Russia in
sudcession ; and the treaty of peace
Concerning Bilesia, between the two
most powerful women of coeval times
whom the world has ever known —
Maria Theresa of Austria and Oathe^
rine 11. of Bussiar— was here ratified
'i^ 1746.
" The population of Reval, which is
18,000 (now 25,000), is greatly swelled
during the summer by hundreds of
Petersburgians that come here to
bathe. The steamers from the capital
are constantly plying, so overloaded
with passengers as greatly to neutral-
ize accommodations otherwise good."
"A day may be profitably and
agreeably spent in driving to Padis
KloBter, distant 13 m. from the town,
one of the finest ruins in Esthonia.
"This monastery is mentioned in
thd beginning of the 14th centy.,
when, owing to starvation without its
walls, and doubtless a very comfort-
able life within, the peasants rose in
numbers around, murdered the abbot
and monks, and so devastated the
place, that in 1448 it received a fur-
ther and fuU consecration at the hands
of Heinrich Baron Uxkiill, Bishop of
Reval ; at which time it was ordained,
that whoever should in any way en-
rich or benefit this Kloster of Padis,
should, for any sins he might commit,
have 40 days of penance struck off!.
Hence, perhaps, arose the peculiar
repute and custom in the sale of in-
didgences which this monastery en-
joyS." — Letters from the BaUic.
Reval has an arsenal, and the fleet
from Oronstadt rendezvous here at
timesi Russian vessels of war are
generally stationed in the harbour.
The duh of the nobility and savans
contains some handsome apartments,
and a collection of portraits of Swedish
sovereigns, arms, and relics of remark-
able persons. The English, French,
and German newspapers are taken in
here, and a stranger may readily pro-
cure admittance. At Reval is the
mausoleum of Admiral Greig, the hero
of Chesme, who was buried here with
great pomp in 1788.
St. Petersburg maybe reached from
Reval by steamer in 24 hours<
Digitized by VjOOQIC
Bussia^
• Route 6. — Novgorod^
173
ROUTE 5.
ST» JPBTEBSfitEG TO NOVGOBOb TfiB
GBBAT.
This is an excursion that eVei'y tra-
veller who wishes to study Russian
antiquities should make.
The journey is performed in summer
by train to Volkh(n>a Stat. (seeRte. 6).
Fare, 6 rs. 15 c. Steamer from Volk-
hova to Novgorod, and vice verBdy to
correspond. Between 4 and 5 hours
by river. In winter, passengers for
Novgorod leave the tram at Chudova
(on Moscow line, 75 m. from St. Peters-
burg), and engage sledges, which are
always in waiting, for Novgorod, about
45 m. distant. In either case the trip
need not occupy more than 2 or 3
days. Stations at Chudova aud Volk^
hova small. Principal Inn at Nov-
gorod, " Berezinskaya Gostinnitsa,"
m the main, or Moscow Street Very
good, clean rooms, opened in 1867;
prices moderate. The inn close to the
steamboat pier not as good. Travellers
are recommended to take a commis-
sioner or servant with them.
Novgorod, Pop. 18,000, on the Volk-
hof river. The glorious history of this
old city may be read in its churches,
the only surviving monimients of its
former greatness. It was the cradle of
the Russian empire, for the Rurik
dynasty first settled there in 862. The
Grandnducal throne having been soon
after removed to Eief^ the citizens of
Novgorod grew in power fts the princes
of the house of Rurik weakened their
dominion by constant wars in dis-
putes relative to the right of succes-
sion. From 1136 the Nov^orodians
acquired the right of calling m princes
to govern them according to the laws
of the city, and of " showing them the
way out of it" when they gave no
satisfaction. Their popular assem-
blies,, or Veoh€, strengthened by the
subdivision of Russia into petty prin-
cipalities, assumed still greater autho-
rity during the Mongol invasion.
They devised in open council common
measures of protection. The dominion
of the intaders once established over
the greater part of Russia, with the
exception of Novgorod, which tho
Tartars never reached, the princes,
who had always sought merely their
own personal advantage, were gained
oyer to the Camps of the Khans by
bribes and offers of support against
their unruly people, who were thus
driven into still stronger union. Re-
lying on the support of his Tartar
protectors and the power of his officers,
y aroslaf. Great Prince of Novgorod in
1270, neglected the conditions on
which he had eiscended the throne,
pursued a despotic course, and became
deaf to the popular voice. The bell of
the Veche soon struck the hour of his
downfall. The citizens assembled at
the Cathedral of St. Sophia, and at
once resolved to depose Yaroslaf, and
to put his ffeivourites to death. The
chief of these was killed, the others
fled to sanctuary, leaving their houses
to be pillaged and razed to the ground
by the angry populaee. An act of
accusation was brought against tho
Prince in the name of Novgorod.
"Why," asked the citizens, "didst
thou take possession of the palace of
Mortkinitch? Why didst thou take
silver from the boyars Nikifor, Robert
and Bartholomew ? Why didst thoU
send away the foreigners (merchants)
who lived peaceably among Us ? Why
do thy birdcatchers (ducks were then
plentiful) deprive us of our river Volk-
hof, and thy huntsmen of our fields?
Let thy oppression now cease! Go
Where thou wiUstj we shall find an-
other prince."
** Wbo can resist God and the Great
Novgorod? " was a proverbial expres-
K 2
174
Boute 6. — Novgorod^
Sect. I.
8 ion of the time, evidently founded on
a consciousness of popular power. The
*' Lord Great Novgorod," as the State
was quaintly styled, exercised all the
rights of sovereignty until John III.
incorporated it with the Grand
Duchy of Moscow in 1478. The an-
cient trade of Novgorod with the Han-
seatic towns had made it a centre
of immense -wealth. It once covered
an area of 40 miles in circimiference.
The first Eussian money was coined
there in the early part of the 15th
centy. John III. was obliged to re-
move more than 8000 boyars and 50
families of merchants to Moscow, be-
fore he could extinguish the spirit of
independence which so many centuries
of freedom and prosperity had fostered.
The Veche bell was likewise carried
away to Moscow, with countless trea-
sures in gold, silver, and precious
stones. However, a still sterner fate
awaited the city. John the Terrible,
informed that the Novgorodians in-
tended to submit to the Prince of
Lithuania, suddenly appeared on the
Volkhof with an army of Opritchniks,
who sacked the churches and monas-
teries, and during an occupation of
six weeks threw hundreds and thou-
sands of the inhabitants into the river.
During the interregnum that followed
the extinction of the Kurik line, Nov-
gorod, and its "younger brother"
Pskof, contemplated a union under a
prince of Sweden. This was the last
ineffectual effort made by the Nov-
gorodians to re-establish their ancient
self-government. It is now the chief
town of a province of the same name.
The principal sights are :—
1. Cathedral of 8t, Sophia, anciently
" the heart and soul of Great Novgo-
rod." Here the princes were crowned,
and in front of it the Vech^s were oc-
casionally held. The firsf cathedral at
Novgorod was built in 989. The pre-
sent edifice was originally erected in
1045, by the grandson of St. Wladimir.
It was constructed by artisans from
Constantinople, after the model of
J'cstinian's Temple. It was pillaged
A.D. 1065 by the Prince of Polotsk,
and again in 1570 by the Opritchniks
of John the Terrible. The Swedes,
under Delagardie, in 1611, after kill-
ing two of the priests, destroyed the
charter granted to the cathedral in
1504. The frescoes were executed in
the 12th centy., but the entire build-
ing, both within and without, was
completely renovated and restored be-
tween 1820 and 1837. As one of the
oldest churches in Bussia, its architec-
ture will afford an interesting study.
The cupola is supported by eight mas-
sive quadrangular pillars. There are
two more similar pillars at the altar.
Five chapels, or altars, stand within the
cathedral, added at various periods
from the 12th to the 16th centuries.
The high-altar is of oak, and is ap-
proached by two stone steps. The
mosaic-work on the wall behind the
altar is considered to be cotemporane-
ous with the building of the cathedral,
and consequently Byzantine work.
The Ikonostas was put up in 1341.
The most remarkable images in it
are : — 1. The Saviour, a copy of an
ancient image attributed to the Greek
Emperor Emanuel, taken to the Cathe-
dral of the Assumption at Moscow in
1570. 2. St. Sophia, a copy, of the
same date as .the church, of a Byzan-
tine image. 3. St. Peter and St. Paul,
brought, according to local tradition,
from Khersonesus, together with some
celebrated crosses now in the Cathedral
of the Assumption, by St. Wladimir.
The remaining images, 15 in number,
are of greater or less antiquity. On
pillars above the choir are fresco re-
presentations of canonized princes and
ecclesiastics.
The chief shrines are:--l. Of St.
Anne, daughter of King Olaf of
Sweden, and consort of Prince Yoro-
slaf I. She was tiie first to set an ex-
ample of taking the veil, according to
the custom of widowed empresses in
Byzantium. She died in 1050. 2. In
a niche of the some wall lie the
remains of St. Vladimir, son of Yaro-
slaf and Anne, and founder of the
cathedral, who died a.d. 1052. These
relics were placed there in 1652. 3.
St. Nikita, Archbishop of Novgorod,
reposes in a silver shrine. He was
canonized for his great piety. His
Bussia.
Bouie 5. — Novgorod.
175
prayers extinguished the flames which
once threatened Novgorod with de-
struction, and hrought down rain on
the parched earth. Ohiit 1108. 4. At
the S. wall of the high-altar stands an
empty reddish slate tomh, and over it
a hronze shrine, in which repose the
remains of St. Mstislaf " the Brave,"
Prince of Novgorod, who obtained
great renown in the war for the succes-
sion, and was prevailed upon by the
Novgorodians to become their prince.
He freed Pskof from its enemies, and
compelled the Cliiids, or Finns, to pay
tribute. In the midst of his greatness
lie was overtaken by disease, and,
having caused himself to be carried
into the Cathedral of St Sophia, took
the Holy Communion before the assem-
bled citizens, and, after commending
his wife and his 3 sons to the care of
his brothers, crossed his once mighty
arms on his breast and expired, 14th
June, 1180. 5. In the N. chapel, in a
rich silver shrine (1856), lies exposed
the body of John Archbishop of Nov-
gorod, who died 1186. There are 10
other shrines of saints who lived be-
tween 1030 and 1653. Nineteen arch-
bishops and Metropolitans, between
1223 and 1818, are also buried within
the cathedral, together with many
princes. Only 2 of the inscriptions on
the tombs of the latter are now legible ;
they record the deaths of Prince Mstis-
laf Rostislavitch m 1178, and of Vasili
Mstislavitch a.d. 1218.
Among other interesting objects
within the ch. may be mentioned : 1.
The throne of the Tsar and Metro-
politan, erected in 1560 ; 2. Large brass
chandeliers, suspended in 1600. The 2
doors which open into the Chapel of the
Nativity are very remarkable. They
are of oak, overlaid witii metaUic
plates half an inch in thickness, and
bearing various devices and scrolls.
Tradition says they were brought from
the ancient town of Siegtoun, in
Sweden, pillaged in 1187 by pirates,
among whom were some Novgorodians.
The Korsun (or Khersonesus) door, at
the W. entrance, is likewise of wood,-
omamented with bronze, bearing 54
inscriptions in Slavonian and Latin.
The former are supposed to be of the
14th centy., and the latter in the
Gothic style of the 13th or 14th
centy. It is in dispute whether
this door came from Khersonesus or
from Magdeburg. Another account
states that the door was carried in-
to Poland by Boleslas II., when it
was placed in a Eoman Catholic
churon, and subsequently transported
to Novgorod.
The Sacristy, which is in a room at
the top of the cathedral, contains
several ecclesiastical objects of interest,
although the more ancient treasures
have been removed, stolen, or burnt at
various periods. There is a printed
copy of the Gospels in a cover of the
16th centy. The mitres, croziers, and
panagias are of the 16th and 17th
cents. Among the antiquities, not
ecclesiastical, are: 1. A cap of main-
tenance, of wood, covered with silk,
supposed to have belonged to the
princes of Novgorod ; 2. Archbishop's
seal ; 3. Silk standard, with a mono-
gram of the Saviour's name — ^tradition
says it was carried before the ancient
Governors of Novgorod ; 4. Large silk
standard of Novgorod, presented by
the Tsars Peter and John in 1693 ; 5.
A collection of small silver coins from
John III. to Peter L ; 6. Old dishes of
German work.
Library. — This was one of the richest
in Russia, but in 1859 the MSS. were
removed to St. Petersburg. A collection
of 20 letters from Peter the Great to
Catherine I., and his son Alexis, &c.,
is still preserved there.
2. The KremUn, or stone wall, in the
centre of the city, was foimded 1302,
rebuilt 1490, and repaired in 1698 and
1818. A pavilion, in a garden which
occupies the bed of the old moat, is
raised on the spot where Martha, sur-
named the " Posadnitsa,'' or governor
(in the female gender), lived in the
middle of the 15th centy. The cathe-
dral, the archiepiscopal palace, and
several churches, stand within the
walls.
It is impossible to describe in tlie
limits of this Handbook any other of
the uimierous churches and monasteries
with which old Novgorod is adorned.
176
Bouie 6. — St, Petersburg to Moscoio.
Sect. I.
They are mostly of groat antiquity, and
will fully repay a minute inspection
and inquiry on the spot. A work by
Count M, Tolstoy, 1862, in the Bussian
language, contains the most complete
information.
Travellers will see the great Monu-
ment j erecte4 in 1862, to commemorate
the 1000th anniversary of the existence
of the Russian Empire. The ^gures
on it are emblematical of tlie several
periods of Russian history. The design
is by a Russian academician, but it was
cast by the English firm of NichoUs
and Plincke, of the " English Maga-
zine," at St. Petersburg.
A band plays twice a week during
summer in the Sim^mer Garden, which
is unfortunately not kept iu very good
order.
An excursion might be made across
the Ilmen lake in the steamer which
leaves evejy other day for *< Staraya
Jluss," a mshionable watering-place
where salt baths are taken. The
steamer crosses in about 3i hrs, J«»a,
tolerably goo4, In winter the lake
is crossed in a sledge, but Btaraya
Russ is not wortb seeing fit that
season.
Travellers should^ Iiowcvgt, x^oi lUil
to see the old MtimiMtury of Wiryeffy
near Novgorod. It is »itu£ik4 *i m.
out of Novgorod, bcstwoCTi tJie VolJdiof
and Kniajevka rivrra, nn on olcvntion
of considerable pjeturesque iJlHnit,
Having been founded in 1031, by
Yaroslaf , son of Vladimir, it is one of
the most ancient and important mo-
nasteries in Russia. There are 3 chs.
within it; that dedicated to George
the Martyr is the oldest, having been
erected in 1119. They were repaired
in 1807, at the expense of Countess
Orlof of Tchesme, who also cauped to
be built the handsome belfry. Among
the treasures which this monastery
possesses are the charters given to it
in 1128 and 1132, an altar^loth of
1449, and a cross studded with pearls
and precious stones, presented in 1599.
ROUTE 6.
ST, PET^BSBUBG TO MOSCOW,
By rail in 20 hrs, ; fare 19 rs. and
13 rs. All luggage charged.*
This line, 403 m. in length, was
constructed by the Government. The
grii^cipal stations are solidly and
andsomely built. The refreshment-
rooms are abundantly supplied ; and
passengers have a liberal allowance
of time for dinner, tea, and supper.
The first stat, is.
Kolpino. There is a very large steam
factory here, founded by Peter the
Great. Marine engines for the navy
are made here, and guns cast and
bored.
Lubany the first large stat. (It will
suflSce to mention the principal stop-
pages or places to which any interest
attaches,)
Chtidova, The Volkhof river will be
passed here. It flows from the lake
ilmen into that of Ladoga, and is navi-
gable for barges along its entire course.
Station for winter route to Novgorod
the Great
Volhhovay next stat., at foot of the
bridge. Steamers for Novgorod from
hence in summer. See Rte, 5.
Mah-Vyshera, 151 J v. from St
Petersburg. The river Msta, which
rises in the Valdai hills, and flows into
lake Ilmen, will be passed halfway be-
* lYavellere mqst aaoertain the changes that
have been made in the management of ihe line
since its sale to the «'QraQdo SociStd des
ghepan8deF§r|iuBae8," vjww^i^
Bussia.
Boute 6. — 8t, Petersburg to Moscow,
177
tween this and the next station. Im^
mediately outside the station is the
immense iron bridge, built over a
ravine, on the American principle,
oyer a height of X90 ft. Another
bridge, nearly as large, over the Jtfata,
will be passed.
OkuLofka, 2 stats, beyond is
Valdai, near the small town of that
name on the Valdai Lake (Pop. 4000),
celebrated for its bells, which may be
purchased at the stat. They are small,
and when attached to harness have
a very harmonious effect. Scythes
and sickles are also manu^etctured
here. Scenery wooded and hilly. The
Dwina, Volga, and Volkhof rise in the
Valdai hills. A monastery stands on
one of the islands in the lake. It is
called the Iverski, and was founded in
1652 by the patriarch Nicon. A copy
of the image of the Iberian Mother of
God, brought from Mount Athos in
1648, now at Moscow, adorns the altars-
screen of the principal chapel. The
Patriarch .frequently came here,
Bologom. 2 stats, beyond is
VyehnuVoloohoh, 836 v. from St.
Petersburg, town in province of Tver,
on the river Tsna. (Pop. 14,000.)
A canal which rises here, by joining
several rivers and lakes unites the
Volga and the Neva, and the Cas-
pian and the Baltic. The rly. and the
improvement of a rival canal system,
by way of the Svir and Sheksna rivers,
have considerably lessened the import-
ance of the town.
Spirova. 2 stats, beyond is
Ostashkoff nearest point (40 v.) to
Torjok, a town of 16,000 Inhab., where
Bussia leather is embroidered with
gold, silver, and silk thread for slip-
pers, cushions, bags, &c. Specimens
of these wares will be seen at the stat.,
but they are as cheaply procured at
St. Petersburg and Moscow. Torjok
is the farthest point in this direction
reached by the French in 1812.
Tver, 447J v. from St. Petersburg,
chief town of province. (Pop. 26,000.)
Miller's Hotels the old posting-house,
affords excellent accommodation.
Here the traveller crosses the Vol-
ga, and has the first glimpse of that
mighty stream, which, rising 47 m.
S.W. from Valdai, now becomes navi-
gable, after flowing through several
small lakes. Steamers ply hence to
Astrakhan, A distance of about 2150 m.
The town was founded in 1182, and
was the seat of a principality. It is
prettily situated on the bank of the
river, and stands 175 ft above the
level of the water. A cathedral, re^
built in 1682, and a very handsome
belfry of 8 tiers, are the most con*
spicuous objects. Many of the princes
of Tver and their consorts (between
1 272 and 1408) lie buried there. The
church of the Holy Trinity, built in
1584, is a flue remnant of ancient
Bussian architecture. There are secret
chambers in the upper story where
the clergy and citizens concealed their
treasure in time of danger. The
Otrotoh Uspenski Monastery, at the
confluence of the Volga and Tvertsa,
was the prison of the Metr(^olitan
Philip, whose cell is still shown {aee
Cathedral of Assumption, Moscow).
In this he was murdered by Maluta,
an agent of John the Terrible, who,
after committing the crime, announced
to the monks that the venerable pre-
late had died from the fomeg of thQ
stove.
There is a very oonsid^able trade
in grain and iron, shipped hence to St.
Petersburg by the Tvertsa river and
several canals. The lion is brought
from the Ural to be manufactured at
Tver into nails, and in that shape much
of it returns to the place of original
production.
Klin, town in province of Moscow ;
5000 Inhab. 2 stats, beyond is
Krukova Stat, for Monastery of New
Jerusalem or Voskresenski {Beaurree-
tion), which is about 14 m. distant.
Post-horses and either a tarantasa or
a common cart may be had here to
take the traveller to the monastery
for a charge of 3 to 4 rubles, there and
back, retivning next dajr.
Travellers should avoid takinff acom-
mon cart, for the road is bad and dusty,
and they should bring with them a
basket of provisions,
Tolerable accommodation will be
obtained at the hostelry attached to
the monastery, the last housej on tho
178
Boute 6,^ St Petersburg to Moscow,
Sect. I.
left, approaching the gate of the mo-
nastery.
An important page of the ecclesias-
tical history of Russia may be read
here. We come upon the life and
doings of the Patriarch Nicon, who laid
the foundation of the monastery in
1657. On his frequent journeys to the
Iberian Convent at Yaldai he always
stopped at the village of Yoskresensk,
and in 1655 built a ch. on some land
which he purchased there. The Tsar
Alexis, present at its consecration,
named the ch., at the desire of Nicon,
the New Jerusalem, The Patriarch
then sent for a model of the Church of
the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem, which
he set about to imitate. The neigh-
bouring accidents of country he called
after various sacred sites in Palestine.
The river Istra was converted into the
Jordan; a brook, pui-posely formed,
became the Kedron ; a neighbouring
village was dignified into Nazareth;
and on the mound on which the Tsar
stood when he bestowed the name of
New Jerusalem he built a chapel and
called it Eleon.
But the fovour of the sovereign was
suddenly withdrawn from the pre-
late. Nicon arrogated to himself a
power in civil as well as in ecclesi-
astical matters, of which the Tsar
and his courtiers became jealous. He
also brought down upon himself the
hatred of the clergy, whom he per-
secuted most rigorously for intemper-
ance and other irregularities. His in-
novations in the ritual of the Church,
induced by a warm zeal for the ancient
Church and Empire of Constantinople,
and effected by a comparison of more
correct service-books from Mount
Athos, encountered the strongest op-
position, and swelled the number of
his enemies. The people, driven into
Dissent, founded numerous sects, which
are to this day strongly inimical to the
Orthodox Church and partly even to
the State. He went so far in uphold-
ing the Byzantine purity of the Russian
Cliurch as to seize in the houses of the
nobles, and destroy, all pictures that
were not painted in the conventional
forms of Greek art. In public docu-
-^ents he assumed a title which was
equal to that of the sovereign. But
•at last his enemies triumphed. The
Tsar, irritated at the insolence of the
Patriarch, and annoyed at the unsuc-
cessful termination of a war with the
Poles and Swedes which he had un-
dertaken by his advice, withdrew his
friendship, and soon after, on a great
festival of the Church, absented himself
from the cathedral, in which Nicon
was wont to sermonize his royal master.
The Patriarch, enraged, threw off his
episcopal robes, resigned his crozier,
and, attiring himself in the habit of a
monk, withdrew, amid the expostula-
tion of the populace and the Tsaf s
officers, to his retreat at Voskresensk.
But his strength and greatness of mind
were not equal to the occasion. He
had expected to see Alexis with tears
in his eyes, asking forgiveness, and
entreating him not to divest himself of
his high oflBce. The Tsar never came,
and Nicon saw, when too late, that he
had taken a fatal step. A Metropolitan,
having been temporarily invested with
the Patriarchate, considered himself
justified in replacing Nicon at a cere-
mony in which the Primate rode on an
ass to typify Christ's entry into Jeru-
salem; the recluse of Voskresensk
protested against what he called a
usurpation, under the plea that he was
still a Patriarch, with the gift of the
Holy Ghost to work cures, although
by his own free will no longer Patriarch
of Moscow. In 1664, 6 years after,
his resignation, Nicon appeared sud-
denly at matins in the Cathedral of the
Assumption, arrayed once more in his
pontifical robes. He wrote to the
Tsar that, after long &sting and much
prayer, he had been told by the
canonized Jonah, in a vision, to re-
sume his seat on the throne of the
Patriarchs of Moscow. A council of
the Eastern Patriarchs was soon after
called at Moscow and presided over by
the Tsar. Nicon was degraded and ba-
nished to the Monastery of Therapon-
toff in the province of Novgorod. In
1681 he was pardoned by Theodore,
the successor of Alexis, but died on his
voyage down the Volga to meet the
Tsar. ^^^^
It was during this quSrrel that
Bnssia.
Bmite 6. — Moscow: Hotels.
179
Nicon built the . greater part of the
Monastery of New Jerusalem. From a
small square tower beyoud the Kedrou
he watched the progress of the build-
ing, which he was never to see com-
pleted, and even worked as a common
stonemasoQ, making bricks with his
own hands. He caused the Oliurch of
the Holy Sepulchre to be copied in the
minutest particulars, and it is therefore
more like the old church in which the
Crusaders worshipped than is that ch.
itself, since it was destroyed by fire and
altered in 1812. Nicon*s schemes for
the aggrandisement of the Russian
Church was indicated by the 5 patri-
archal thrones of Constantinople,
Antioch, Alexandria, Jerusalem, and
Moscow, which will be seen in the
Sanctuary. He lies buried in the
chapel of Melchizedek, at the foot of
the Golgotha, close by the spot where,
in the actual Church of the Holy
Sepulchre, lie the remains of Godfrey
of Bouillon. Over the tomb are the
heavy chains which he wore round
his body, and at his head is the small
waxen picture which he carried about
with him in all his wanderings.
Many other relics of the great Patri-
arch are preserved in the sacristy^
together with his portrait, and that of
Alexis. The principal dome having
fftllen in in 1723, the ch. was entirely
restored by the celebrated architect
Rastrelli in 1750. For further particu-
lars respecting this interesting monas-
tery the traveller should consult Dean
Stanley's * Lectures on the Eastern
Church.*
A battle was fought in the vicinity
of the monastery, June 18, 1698, be-
tween General Patrick Gtordon and
the rebellious Streltzi, who were there-
upon suppressed, and decapitated by
Peter in great numbers.
The next stat. but one is
Moscow (Pop. 380,000).
Holds. — As at St. Petersburg, so at
Moscow, a selection has to be made
between the boarding-house system and
the better class of Russian . hotels. K
the traveller speaks no French or Ger-
man, and feels helpless without the
assistance of a landlord or landlady
who can speak his own language and
that of the natives of the country, ho
should at once drive to **Lubianka"
street Here again a choice has to be
made in the matter of a boarding-house.
Unfortunately, perhaps, there are two
in the same street, almost facing each
other, kept on similar principals, offer-
ing equal advantages. Even the names
of the proprietors are very nearly alike,
with tiie difference only of a vowel.
We therefore only mention them in
alphabetical order, in indicating first
Madame Billet's house, and second
Mr. Billot's. Madame Billet has the
advantage of her sex and parentage,
for she is English by birth ; Mr. Billot
is the type of an obliging, serviceable
landlord, well conversant with the
English language, and an excellent
guide to Moscow. The charges at
both establishments are similar, viz.
4 rubles a day for bed and board, and
a small charge extra for servants,
which has, as usual, to be supple-
mented. Both houses are principally
frequented by men of commerce, espe-
cially in winter. The dinners are
good, substantial, and a la Busse, with
a few homely English variations. The
beds are soft and clean, and the rooms
neat. The use of Persian powder forms
an exception, not a rule. Tubs kept
on the premises.
The independent traveller, who pre-
fers a French cuisine and an apartment
of greater litxe, or one who has a
prejudice against herding with his
countrymen abroad, will probably pre-
fer the "Hotel Dusaux," near the
Kremlin, the "Hotel Chevrier," a
house of old standing, or the " Hotel
do Dresde," in the square on which
stands the Governor's House. Du-
saux's is modern ; the charges there
are from 2 rs. (6s.) to any other price
for a bedroom, or a bedroom and par-
lour. Dinners a la carte, or at the taUe-
d*h6te. Without detracting in the least
from the merits of the above houses, it
is right to advise the traveller once
for all to be provided, when travelling
in Russia, with remedies against in-
sects of a vexatory disposition.
Vehicles. — Take a drojky at the sta-
tion, and leaf<i i3K(Mandlord to settle
K 3
M S C W.
1 I'naftiiury.
& MicLuL^H ?a]U!0.
ti AA9imi|jEk>D.
f AlJPlUTH^jHtLHt,
JU SwsrLtty.
It U irodd UntMvt,
li AFioeiiiNjti Coijh-t,
U AmetniJ,
14 fiLJiii>Li|.
Hi KiotHTwif Kt^U;^. I
17 IWjuir.
I'J UuiranlCv.
MOGLltiiUiisScLcJLjt
BAIL TO ST. HWaUUKUO.
■owxunnPAitic
182
Boute 6. — Moscow: Hiatm-y.
Sect. I.
with the driver. There are also car-
riages in waiting. " Billet," " Billot,"
** Dusaux," and " Chevrier '* will be
sufficient explanation as to where you
want to be driven.
Commissioners from Dusaux's and
other hotels generally await the train
from St. Petersburg.
Carriages can be ordered at the hotel
by the day, at a charge of 5 to 6 rubles
(15g. to 18«.) per diem, with the addi-
tion of " tea-money " to the driver to
the extent of another shilling. They
may be kept out all day and half the
night with impunity, allowing only
two or three hours during dinner
for feeding the horses. Drojkies and
sledges are cheaper.
Commissioners. — ^Difficult to be ob-
tained, especially if a knowledge of
the English language be demanded.
Such agents will be found occasionally
at the two boarding-houses, but the
hotels will only be able to supply a
French or German valet de place.
Russian Restaurants, — The dinner
described under the head of " Cuisine
and Restaurants" (vide Introduc-
tion), may be had at the "Novo-
Troitski Traktir," near the market,
visited by H.R.H. Prince Alfred in
1862, and by H.R.H. the Prince of
Wales in 1866, or at the " Moskovski
Traktir," close to the Theatre.
The City of Moscow.
The history of the Russian provinces
through which the traveller has passed
on his way to Moscow has reference to
that of this ancient capital; for, though
Novgorod and Tver were at one period
independent, each in its turn, whether
republic or principality, was sub-
jugated by this their more powerful
neighbour, and in the 14th centy.
Moscow became the capital of Mus-
covy ; Kief, and afterwards Vladimir,
having till then enjoyed that distinc-
tion. In the early part of the reign of
Basil II. it was taken and ravaged by
Tamerlane ; and later it fell again into
the hands of the Tartars, who sacked
and put many of the inliabitants to
the sword. In 1536 the town was
nearly consumed by fire, in which
2000 of the inhabitants perished. In
1572 the Tartars fired the suburbs,
and, a furious wind driving the flames
into the city, a considerable portion of
it was reduced to ashes, and no fewer
than 100,000 persons perished in the
flames or by the sword. In 1611 a
great portion of the city was again
destroyed by fire, when the Poles had
taken possession of it, under the pre-
tence of defending the inhabitants from
the adherents of a pretender to the
crown. The plague of 177 1 diminished
the population by several thousands,
a decrease- from which it has never
recovered. And, lastly, in 1812, the
Muscovites gave up their ancient,
holy, and beautiful city to the devour-
ing element — the grandest sacrifice
ever made to national feeling. The
city was the idol of every Russian's
heart, her shrines were to him the
holiest in the empire — hallowed by
seven centuries of historical associa-
tions.
But we have to describe the city as
it is, rather than to revert to Russian
history. The assertion sometimes
made, that no city is so irregularly
built as Moscow, is in some respects
true ; none of the streets are straight ;
houses large and small, public build-
ings, churches, and other edifices are
mingled confusedly together; but it
gains by this the advantage of being
more picturesque. The streets un-
dulate continually, and thus ofier from
time to time points of view whence
the eye is able to range over the vast
ocean of house-tops, trees, and gilded
and coloured domes. The profusion
of churches, 370 in number, is a cha-
racteristic feature of the city. But
the architecture of Moscow, since the
conflagration of 1812, is not quite so
bizarre as, according to the accounts
of travellers, it was before that event ;
nevertheless it is still singular enough.
In 1813 the point chiefly in view was
to build, and build quickly, rather
than to carry any certain plan into
execution; the houses were replaced
with nearly the same irrcjgularity with
respect to each 'tffit^f^^lWa^ffl^ streets
BuBsia.
Boute 6. — Moscow : Buildirhgs,
183
became as crooked and tortuous as
before. The whole gained, therefore,
little in regularity from the fire, but
each individual house was bmlt in
much better taste, gardens became
more frequent, the majority of roofs
were made of iron painted green, a
lavish use was made of pillars, and
even those who could not be profuse
erected more elegant cottages.
Hence Moscow has all the charms of
a new city, with the pleasing negli-
gence and picturesque irregu^rity of
an old one. In the streets we come now
to a large magnificent palace, with
all the pomp of Corinthian pillars,
wrought-iron trellis-work, and magni-
ficent approaches and gateways ; and
now to a simple whitewashed house,
the abode of a modest citizen's family.
Nearthemstandsa smallch., withgreen
cupolas and golden stars. Then comes
a row of little yellow wooden houses,
and these are succeeded by one of
the new colossal public institutions.
Sometimes the road winds through a
number of little streets, and the tra-
veller might fancy himself in a
country town; suddenly it rises,
and he is in a wide "place," from
which streets branch off on all
sides, whUe the eye wanders over
the forest of houses of the great
capital; descending again, he comes
in the middle of the town to the
banks of the river. The circumvalla-
tion of the city is upwards of 20
English miles in extent, of a most
irregular form, more resembling a
trapezium than any other figure;
within this are 2 nearly concentric
circular lines of boulevards, the sites
of former fortifications, the one at
a distance of about 1^ m. from the
Kremlin, completed on both sides of
the Moskva; the internal one, once
the moat of the ELremlin and Eitai
Gorod, with a radius of about a mile,
spreading only on the north of the
river, and terminating near the stone
bridge on the one side, and the Found-
ling Hospital on the other. The river
enters the barrier of the vast city to
which it has given a name about the
contral point of the western side ; and
after winding round the Devichi con-
vent like a serpent, and from thence
flowing beneath the battlements of the
Kjemlin, and receiving the scanty
stream of the Jaousa, issues again into
the vast plain, till it meets the Oka, a
tributary of the mighty Volga, which
it joins at Nijni Novgorod.
On the N. of the Moskva, streets and
houses, in regular succession, reach to
the very barrier ; and though a vast
proportion of ground is left unoc-
cupied, owing to the enormous width
of the streets and boulevards, the
earthen rampart may truly be said to
gird in the city. But in the other
quarters, and particularly to the S.,
Moscow can hardly be said to extend
farther than the outward boulevard.
The centre of this vast collection of
buildings is the ELremlin, which forms
nearly a triangle of about 2 Eng. m.
in extent. On the E. comes the
Kitai Gorod (Chinese city),* which
still preserves its ancient fence of towers
and buttresses. Encircling these 2 divi-
sions, and itself, bounded by the river
and imjer boulevard, lies the Beloi
Gorod (white city). The space en-
closed between the 2 circles to the N.
of the Moskva, and between the river
and the outward boulevard on the S.,
is called the Zemlianoi Gorod. Beyond
the boulevards are the suburbs.
Before entering the Kjremlin it will
be well to view it from one or two
points on the outside, and the most
favourable spot for this purpose, on the
S. side, is the stone bridge across the
Moskva; from the river that washes
its base the hill of the Kremlin rises,
picturesquely adorned with turf and
shrubs. The buildings appear set in a
rich frame of water, verdant foliage,
and snowy wall, the majestic column
of Ivan Veliki rearing itself high above
all, like the axis round which the whole
moves. The colours are everywhere
most lively — red, white, green, gold,
and silver. Amidst tiie confusion of
the nmnerous small antique edifices,
the Bolshoi Dvorets (the large palace
built by Nicholas) has an imposing
aspect.
It is time, however, to reduce the
* Several Russian towns have a "Chlncbe
city," just as Calcatta bus ita " China bazaar."
184
Boute^G, — Moscow : Kremlin.
Sect. I.
sights of Moscow to some kind of order.
Assuming that the traveller's first ob-^
ject will be to see the Kremlin, the
following particulai's pwy be read on
the spot :—
Xr6mZ«n.— Russian archi8olop:i8ts are
unable to trace the name of the Kremlin
to any certain source. It is by most
supposed to be derived from theBussian
word Kremen or gUez, but it occurs for
the first time in its present form in the
year 1.446. Originally part of the site
now occupied by it was enclosed by
walls of oak. Demetrius of the Don laid
the foundation of stone walls in 1367,
which resisted the Tartars on several
occasions, and were only seized by Tok-
tamysh through treachery. In 1445
the Kremlin was burnt, and the walls
and gates partly destroyed. The in-
troduction of artillery rendered the old
walls, although repaired, no longer safe
against invaders. John HI. invited
Italians to build new fortifications of
stone, which were accordingly erected
between the years 1485 and 1492, and
subsequently extended and strength-
ened. These walls alone escaped the
ravages of a fire that destroyed the
whole of the Kremlin in 1737. They
are now 7280 ft. in circumference, and
pierced by 5 gates, the principal of
which, the Spaski or •* Redeemer"
Gate, nearest the ch. of St. Basil, was
built by Peter Solarius, a Milanese, in
1491. Christopher Galloway, an Eng-
lish clockmaker, built the tower in
1626, and placed a clock in it, which
was, however, later replaced by another.
Hence the style of the tower is Gothic,
and out of keeping with the Italian
battlements : it is the Porta Sacra and
Porta Trifimphalis of Moscow. Over
it is a picture of the Bedeemer of
Smolensk, held in high veneration by
the orthodox. An omission to un-
cover the head while passing under
this gate was anciently punishable
with 50 compulsory prostrations. The
traveller should not fail to pay the
respect to old traditions here exacted,
since the Emperor himself conforms to
the custom. Criminals executed in
front of this gate offered their last
-irayors on earth to the image of the
Bedeemer of Smolensk, which also
witnessed the execution of the Streltai
by oyder of Peter the Great. In his
reign the sectaries who refused to
shave their beards paid a fine in pasS'
ing through this gate.
The next gate in importanoe along-
side the Spaski Vorota is the Nikolsl^
or Nicholas Gate. The miraculous
image of St. Nicholas of Mojaisk, *' the
dread of perjurers and the comforter
of suffering humanity/* is suspended
over it. Oaths were anciently ad-»
ministered to litigants in front of this
venerated image. The tower was ori-
ginally built in 1491 by an Italian
architect, but has, like the other build-
ings of the Kremlin, been restored after
suecessive disasters, The troops of
Tokhtamysh, of Sigismund III., and
of Napoleon, passed through this gate
within 4 centuries. In 1408 it wit-
nessed the siege of Moscow by Edigei,
in 1551 the invasion by the Crim
Tartars, and in 1611-12 the battles
between the Poles and the Russians
for the possession of Holy Moscow.
It was also partly destroyed by orders
of Napoleon, when it escaped with only
a rent which split the tower in the
middle as far as the frame of the pic-
ture ; but not even the glass of the
picture, nor even that of the lamp
suspended before it, is said to have
been injured. An inscription to that
effect was placed over the gate by
order of Alexander I.
A gate near the western extremity
of the Kremlin wall is called the
Troitski or Trinity Gate. Its tower
was likewise built by Christopher Gal-
loway in the early part of the 17th
centy. ; restored in 1769, and after the
conflagration in 1812. The French
both entwed and left the Kremlin by
this gate. Before that invasion the
buildings in the vicinity afforded a
refuge lor vagrants, thieves, and mur-
derers, who kept the inhabitants in
great terror.
The last gate on the B. is called
the Borovitski. Its tower is curious.
Having penetrated the Kremlin by one
of these gates, the visitor will proceed
to inspect the many interesting build-
ings and objects which it contains.
Enssia.
Boute 6. — Moscow : Tower of Ivan VeliJci.
185
These are as follows, in the order in
which they should be seen :^-
1. The Tower ef Ivan Vdthi (John
the Qreqi), — This remarkable structure
should he ascended first. Tradition
goints to a very remote origin, but
istorieal focts assert that the tower
was built in the year 1600 by the Tsar
Boris Godunoff. It consists of 6 stories,
4 being octangular and the last cylin-
drical, the whole rising to a height of
about 826 ft. including the cross. The
basement is occupied by a chapel dedi-
cated to St. John of the Ladder, of
which, in feet, the tower is the Gam-
panUe, In the next 3 stories are sus-
pended 34 bells of various sizes and
tones. The largest, named the ** As-
sumption," hangs in the first tier above
the chapel, and weighs 64 tons, being,
therefore, five times as heavy as the
iamous bell of Erfurt, and four times
that of Eouen. It was recast after the
partial destruction of the tower in 1812.
The chapel below this part of the tower
is dedicated to a St. ]Nicholas, who is
the patrtm of all ladies about to marry.
The most ancient of the other bells
bears the date of 1650, The Veche'
bell of the Great Novgorod was once
suspended in this tower ; but all trace
of it is lost. In the highest tier are 2
small silver bells of exquisite tone,
The ringing of all these bells on Easter
eve produces a most wonderful effect.
Here the traveller pauses to behold the
panorama of Moscow. The view from
the summit is certainly one of the most
striking and unique in Europe.
The custodey who will ascend with
the traveller, will expect a fee. It is
advisable to retain the services of one
of the men at the foot of the tower for
the rest of the siglits within the Krem-
lin, making him a present of 60 copecks
at parting.
2. Oea«-BeK, *• Tsar Kolokol," Tsar
of Bells.— This lies at the foot of the
tower. The art of casting bells was
known in Russia in the 14th centy.,
but was only brought to perfection in
the 16th, when the first large bell was
cast at Moscow (1553), which weighed
36,000 lbs., and was suspended in a
wooden tower. A Polish traveller, in
1611, relates having seen a huge bell,
of which the clapper was moved by 24
men. Olearius, Secretary of a Dutch
Embassy to Moscow, asserts that the
Great Bell was cast in the reign of
Boris Godunoff. During a fire in the
reign of Alexis, this bell fell to the
ground and was broken. In 1654 it
was recast, and weighed 288,000 lbs.
Its circtunference was 54 ft., and its
thickness 2 ft. In 1674 it was sus-
pended from a wooden beam at the foot
of the tower, from whence it fell on the
19th June, 1706, during a fire. Its
fragments lay on the ground until the
reign of the Empress Anne, by whose
orders it was recast in 1733. By the
falling of some heavy rafters during
another fire in 1737, the side of the
bell was knocked out, and it remained
buried in the. ground until the year
1836, when it was placed on its present
pedestal by order of the Emperor
Nicholas. Its weight at present is
444,000 lbs., its height 19 ft. 3 in., and
its circumference 60 ft. 9 in. Its thick-
ness is 2 ft., and the weight of the
broken piece is 700 pouds, or about 11
tons. The figures in relief are those
of the Tsar Alexis and the Empress
Anne, and on the scroll below is a re-
presentation of the Saviour, the Holy
Virgin, and the Evangelists, sur-
rounded by cherubims. The inscrip-
tion gives the above facts.
3. The Palace. — The ancient habita-
tions of the rulers of Moscow were of
wood, with the exception of the Grano-
vitaya Palata, built by an Italian archi-
tect in 1484, and still extant. Fre-
quent conflagrations, Tartar inroads,
and a Polish occupation destroyed the
old Courts of the Grand Dukes and
Tsars. On the transfer of the capital
to St. Petersburg, the Kremlin was
definitively deserted as a royal resi-
dence. The fire of 1737, which con-
sumed everything that was ancient in
Moscow, obliterated all traces of the
buildings constructed by the first
sovereigns of the Romanoff djmasty,
leaving only the stone basements on
which the structures now seen have
since been reared. The Empress Anno
186
Boute 6. — Moscow : The Palace,
Sect. I.
built a palace on their site in the style
of the period, but this again made way
for the gigantic palace designed by the
Empress Catherine II., now exhibited
in the Treasury as a model, and the
construction of which was soon aban-
doned. The French burned the palace
facing the river which the Empress
Catherine had rebuilt, and which the
Emperor Napoleon occupied ; and be-
tween 1838 and 1849 it was entirely
removed and replaced by the present
palace, which is therefore only a monu-
ment of the reign of Nicholas I.
The BoWkoi Dvorets^ or Large Pa-
lace, is very lofty compared with its
frontage, and its style is an odd mix-
ture of different periods and forms of
architecture. The incongruity of the
exterior is, however, more than atoned
for by the great beauty and grandeur
of the aparbnents within.
The exhibition of this Handbook
will be a suflScient introduction to the
porter in scarlet, who will detach one
of the Imperial servants on the duty of
showing the palace.* The vestibule is
supported by handsome monoliths of
grey marble. Beginning on the 1. with
the First-floor, which consists of the
dwelling-rooms of the Emperor and
Empress, the apartments occur in the
following order :—l. Dining-room. 2.
Empress's Drawing-room ; white silk,
and gold mouldings. 3. Attendants*
room. 4. Empress' Cabinet; dark-
red silk, and buhl doors. 5. Room
for Lady-in-Waiting. 6. Empress*
Dressing and Bath-room; malachite
mantelpiece. 7. Bedroom. 8. Em-
peror's Dressing and Bath-room. 9.
Emperor*s Cabinet; the pictures re-
present the French entering and leav-
ing Moscow, and the battles of Boro-
dino and Smolensk; bronze equestrian
statuette of Napoleon. 10. Attend-
ants' room. 11. Regimental Standard-
room. 12. Attendants' room.
Visitors will now be led back to the
Vestibule, and shown, in a smaU room
on the 1., a machine for lifting the Em-
press to her apartments upstairs. As-
cending a handsome granite staircase,
with walls of scagliola, he will be taken
to see the State Apartments. The large
^)icture in the gallery round the top of
the staircase, painted in 1850 by Yvon,
a French artist, represents the battle
of Kulikova, or the victory over the
Tartars gained by Dmitry of the Don.
The huge crystal vases at the' door
are from the Imperial Glass Works at
St. Petersburg, as also are the other
vases and candelabra, which will be
shown inside. Passing through an
ante-chamber, the traveller will find
himself in a magnificent Hall dedi-
cated to the MUitary Order of St.
George, founded by Catherine II., in
1769. It measures 200 ft. by 68 ft. ;
height 58 ft. The names of the in-
dividuals and regiments decorated
with the Order since its foundation
are inscribed on the walls in letters of
gold. The capitals of the columns
(which are of zinc) are surmounted
by Victories bearing shields, on which
are inscribed the dates of the several
conquests of Russia, beginning with
that of Perm, in 1472, and ending with
the annexation of Armenia, in 1828.
On the shields are likewise the arms
of the conquered provinces. The name
of the Emperor Alexander II. is in-
scribed on a marble tablet to the left,
near a window which looks out on the
terrace. H.I.M. won the Cross of St.
George of the 4th class in the Cau-
casus. The regiments thus honoured
are 545 in number. The furniture is
black and orange, the colours of the
Order. Ask to see the view from the
balcony which opens out of this hall.
2. Gorgeous hall, pink and gold,
dedicated to Order of St. Alexander
Nevsky, founded 1725. Its length is
103 ft. by 68 ft., and its extreme height
68 ft. Here are placed 6 pictures by
Prof. Moller, portraying the princi-
pal deeds of the Patron Saint : — i.
The Cardinals sent by Pope Innocent
IV., endeavouring to persuade St.
Alexander Nevsky to join the Latin
Church, ii. His marriage with Alex-
andra, daughter of the Prince of
Polotsk, iii. Alexander in the Camp
of the Tartars, bringing gifts. He is
required to bow to idols, and to pass
between 2 fires, but refuses, iv. Tri-
umphal entry into Pskof, delivered
from the Livonian Knights, v. A
Eussia.
Boute 6. — Moscow : The Palace.
187
dream is being told the Prince, in
which the Divine aid is promiBed in the
approaching battle with the Swedes,
vi. Battle with the Swedes on the
banks of the Neva. Alexander fight-
ing with the son-in-law of the King
of Sweden and smiting him in the face
with his lance.
3. Hall of St. Andrew, the senior
order of knighthood, established by
Peter I., 1698 ; the arms of the pro-
vinces of Russia appear on the walls,
which are hung with blue silk, the
colour of the riband. Iknperor*s
throne; length of the hall 160 ft. by
68 ft. ; height 58 ft. This splendid
hall is lighted at night by 2095 can-
dles. 4. Guard-room. 5. Hall of Or-
der of St. Catherine, a female distinc-
tion, conferred by the Empress, who
is sovereign of the. order, and whose
throne stands in the hall ; founded
1714 in commemoration of the de-
liverance by Catherine of Peter I.
from the Turks on the Pruth, 1711.
6. State Drawing-room; green bro-
cade. 7. State Bedroom; white bro-
cade; 2 pilasters of vert antique in
mosaic-work; mantelpiece of jasper.
8. State Dressing and Bath-room.
Descending a few steps, the visitor
will be shown a small chapel, and
then, through a pretty winter-garden,
to the apartments occupied by mem-
bers of the Imperial family. 1. Ante-
room. 2. Dining-room, hung with fine
old tapestry representing the life of
Don Quixote. The tables, lustres,
and looking-glass frames of silver, of
the period of the Empress Anne. A
small model of the monument at Nov-
gorod, The 7th and 8th rooms alone
present some interest, as they contain
some fime sepia copies of Jtaphaely Cor-
reggio, and Guido Beni, by Zeidelmann
of Dresden.
The Picture Gallery comes next.
The only pictures worthy of notice
are the six that have been brought
here from the royal castle of Warsaw,
all painted by ^occiarcZZi. 180. Peace
at Khotin iJetween Turkey and Po-
land. 149. John Sobieski raising
the siege of Vienna by the Turks,
1683. 124. Union of Lithuania with
Poland, at Lublin. 92. Oath of the
Voevod Gabriel Baizen of Lithuania
to Casimir Jagellon. 66. Restoration
of Academy of Cracow by Ladislaus
Jagellon. 35. Promulgation of Statute
( 1347 ) by Casimir the Great. Betum-
ing through the garden, the visitor
will be led along a gallery into which
open the windows of the apartments
allotted to the maids of honour of
H.I.M.
The Zolotaya Palata, or Gold Court,
is at the end of this gallery. A
much larger room of the kind ex-
isted in the ancient residence of the
Tsars. It was the Audience-chamber
and Banqueting-room. The "Gold
Court " here shown is supposed to have
been the state-apartment of the con-
sorts of the first sovereigns of tlie
reigning house. It was renovated at
the coronation of the Emperor Paul,
and again during the reign of Nicho-
las, in the style of the 17th centy.-
copied from old drawings. The re-
cesses, which look like seats, are sup-
posed to have held the gold and silver
plate of the Tsars. The Hall with
the high pointed roof is dedicated to
•the Order of St. Vladimir (founded
1782), and is consequently hung with
black and red silk. The flight of
steps at the end of this hall, called
the "Bed (or Beautiful) Staircase,"
is only used on important state occa-
sions, when the Emperor goes to the
Cathedral of the Assumption. From
the top of these stairs the Tsars of old
allowed the populace to see *' the light
of their eyes." Here John the Ter-
rible gazed at the comet that seemed
to foretel his speedy end ; and it was
here also that he committed the in-
human act of transfixing with his
pointed staff the foot of the trusty mes-
senger and friend of Prince Kui'bski,
a valiant leader of his armies, who, in
the apprehension of unmerited pun-
ishment and death, abandoned his
wife and fled to the Polish camp at
Wolmar, whence he wrote to the Tsar
setting forth the crimes and atrocities
of his reign. The tyrant rested on his
staff while the letter was read by his
commands, the messenger meanwhile
standing motionless and silent. From
188
Eoute 6. — Moscow : The Palace.
Sect. I.
the Bed Staircase the mangled body of
the false Demetrius was thrown down in
the court below by the inftiriated people
of Moscow in 1606 ; and it was &om the
same steps that the rebel Streltsi, in
1682, tore the obnoxious Boyar Matve*
yeff, and out him to pieces before the
eyes of the terrified mother of Peter the
Great, together with numerous other
noblemen and adherents of the Court.
By these steps also, Napoleon, followed
by his Marshals, ascended to take pos-
session of the palace of the Kremlin.
The Granovitaya Palatay or Ban-
queting-room, will be viewed next.
An inscription over the door sets forth
that it was built by John III., who
married Sophia Paleologus, and re-
stored by Nicholas I, It is a vaulted
apartment with arches resting on a
column in the ceptre of the room, and
round which the Imperial plate is dis-
played. Here the Emperor sits en-
throned after the ceremony in the
Cathedral, adorned for the first time
with all the Imperial insignia, and dines
amidst his nobles; crowned heads
being alone seated at the same table
. with him. Opposite the throne, near
the ceiling, is a window, which was'
in olden days occupied by the mem-
bers of the Imperial &mily during the
coronation banquet, their presence be-
low being excluded by etiquette.
The visitor now comes to a very
interesting part of the palace -r- the
Terem, anciently devoted to the Tsar-
evna and her cnildren. The building
consists of 4 stories, which gradually
diminish till the upper floor is so small
as only to contain 1 room. The 2
lower stories, used as magazines, were
built in the early part of the 16th
centy., but the 2 upper were added in
1636 by Michael Fedorowitch. The
entire building was restored 1836-
1849. Ascending the curious carved
stone staircase, the first room reached
is the Dining-room; the presses con-
tain the old seals of the empire. 2.
Beception-room ; bronze casket, con-
taining old charters of the reign of
Alexis. 3. Throne-room of Alexis;
seals of sovereigns ; gold seal of John
the Terrible, in a small open box in
press, 1. of door; bronze casket con-
taining act of election of Michael
Bomanoff to throne of Muscovy. 4.
Bedroom. 5. Oratory ; oopv of the
Evangelists on parchment of 14th oenty,
The room above is called the Coundl
Chamber of the Boyars. Visitors
should go out onl the gallery that runs
round the outside of this building,
and admire the view. A door under
the staircase of the Terem leads to a
suite of rooms where old Oharters are
kept. These can only be seen by
special permission. Alexis, and sub-
sequently his sons Theodore and John,
were brought up in the Terem. Peter
the Great sometimes occupied it before
his first journey to foreign countries,
and its last occupant was the unfortu-
nate Alexis, son of Peter.
The guide should reoeive a fee, as
well as the porter, for taking care of
coats, sticks, and umbrellas.
4. The Treasury (Orhfeinaya Pa-
idta).*— This buadlng. erected in 1851,
forms the right widg of the Palace,
and contains a collection very similar
in subjects to that of the Tower of Lon-
don. The Treasury of Moscow was
anciently, and still remains, the deposi-
tory of venerated historical objects, and
of treasures hereditary in the reigning
house. The geographical position of
BuBsia, and her ancient commercial
intercourse with India, Persia, Aj>
menia, and Greece, gave her prinees
and boyars the widest opportunities fop
the acquisition of weafth. The arts,
first of the East, and later of the West,
found munificent patrons at the court
of Moscow. The interchange of pre-
sents on the occasion of alliances, em-
bassies, or the conclusion of peace,
continued to the time when Bussia was
no longer considered an Asiatic power,
increased the store of riches m the
shape of plate, precious stones, and
costly manu&ctuFes of different kinds,
which in those primitive days were the
principal representatives of wealth.
The churches, in the same manner,
were more frequently endowed with
* The Treasury is only open on Mondays
and Thursdays, between 11 and 3. Tickets at
the Chamberlain's office In ^e Senate, within
the Kremlin. . .
Eussia.
Boute 6, — Moscow : The Palace,
189
pearls, diamoxids, and rubies than with
lands or ducats. The splendour of the
Tsar's court, like that of bis nobles,
was manifested in a gorgeous magnifi-
cence and profusion in the absence of
a n^ore refined civilization. The riches
thus amassed were naturally subject to
political vicissitudes. In 1611 and
1612 the Council of Boyars, during an
interregnum, supported the troops of
Poland and Lithuania within the walls
of the Kremlin on the produce of a
considerable quantity of plate con-
verted into money, The favourites of
the Tsar received frequent marks of
approbation in the shape of vessels of
gold and silver. A fire in 1737 de-
stroyed many historical objects, and
amongst them all the colours taken
from the Swedes at the battle of Pol-
tava, Later the sovereigns of Bussia
transferred their capital, and more than
once removed their household gods
from ooe palace to another. During
the French invasion they were con-
veyed to Nijni-Novgorod. They were
thus frequently dispersed and partially
reunited, and there now remains in the
Treasury of Moscow the collection,
still considerable, to which the visitor
is introduced,
The hall and staircase are adorned
with trophies of arms, principally Ger-
man. The large bell, a sort of tocsin,
bearing the date of 1714, when it was
recast, anciently ran^ out alarms of
fire, and of other pnblio dangers to the
citizens of Moscow.
The first room at the top of the stair-
case is devoted to specimens of old
Bussian armour, both of man and horse,
and the appropriate weapons of steel.
The second room is full of old Bus-
sian fire-arms, arranged chronologic-
ally, and dating from the X5th to the
18th centy. The matchlocks and mus-
kets to the left; are all of native
manufacture. The fowling-pieces are
inscribed as having been presented to
the Tsar Michael in 1614, by Fabian
Smith, an Englishman. They are near
the door on the 1, Tbe standards of
the Tsars of Moscovia, and of tlieir
military households, are grouped round
the pillars by which the vaulted roof
of the room is supported. The most
interesting colours will be found at the
second pillar. Here are the colours of
Peter's unruly Streltsi. Nos. 3697 and
3698, bearing the lion and the unicorn,
were carried by the Cossack Yermak
to the conquest of Siberia. No. 3699
was unfurled as long ago as the early
part of the 17th centy. at the fort of
Albazin, on the Amur, by a small
body of adventurous Cossacks! who
settled on that river, but were subse-
quently driven out by the Chinese.
The standard of Ivan the Terrible,
planted at Kazan in 1652, will be found
near the first window on the 1., and is
numbered 3752.
Here are also numerous trophies
taken from the Swedes, and amongst
them the sword of Charles XII., his
spurs, and the litter in which he was
borne at the battle of Poltava.
The walls of the third room are hung
with original portraits of the Romanoft'
family. The coronation chair on the
1. is that of the Empress Elizabeth;
the chairs on the rt. were occupied by
Paul I., Alexander II., and their con-
sorts, as the visitor may perceive from
the ciphers on them. The Emperor
and Empress walk at their coronation
under the haldachino in the centre of
the room. The traveller will pause at
the stand of colours at the farthest end
of this hall, to the rt. of the door, while
he reads the following translation of
the printed inscription in Bussian
characters, composed by the Emperor
Nicholas himself: — ** Alexander I.,
the benefactor of Poland, gave these
colours to his Polish army. Mag-
nanimity was responded to by treason ;
the brave, faithful Bussian army took
these colours back, after storming
Warsaw and sparing its Inhabitants,
25 and 26 August, 1831." The con-
stitution granted by Alexander I. to
his Polish subjects lies in the small
black box immediately under the in-
scription.
The glass case on the 1. contains the
arms taken from the Polish general
Bzewuski. A blade bears the name
of Stanislaus Augustus, and tlie date
of 1764.
The room on the rt. contains many
of the most interesting relics of Bug-
190
Boute 6. — Moscow : The Palace,
Sect I.
aian sovereignty. To the 1. on entering
stands the throne of Poland, removed
in 1833 from the throne-room of the
Boyal Palace at Warsaw. It was used
at the coronation of Nicholas I. as
King of Poland. The cipher M. is
the initial of his name in Polish
(Mikolay). The insignia of Alexis,
and of Ms sons John and Peter, are on
stands close by. The ivory throne was
brought from Constantinople by Sophia
Palseologus in 1472, on her marriage
with John III. The carving repre-
sents the labours of Orpheus and the
legend of Thrace, but several of the
original panels were replaced in 1642
by others with inappropriate subjects.
It was, moreover, restored in 1856 for
the coronation of Alexander II. The
throne alongside came from Persia in
1660, and was used by the Tsar Alexis.
It is studded with 876 diamonds and
1223 rubies, besides turquoises and
pearls. The orb opposite these thrones
is of great historical importance. It
was sent to Vladimir Monomachus,
Prince of Kief, by the Greek Emperors
Basilius and Constantino, together
with a crown» a collar of enamel and
precious stones, and a chair, with a
piece of the true cross. It is most
splendidly studded with 58 diamonds,
89 rubies, 23 sapphires, 50 emeralds,
and 37 pearls. The coloured enamels
are in the most beautiful style of Greek
art, and represent the principal episodes
in the life of David. The four sym-
bolical figures of Byzantium, the eagle,
the lion, the griffin, and the unicorn,
divide the several images or enamelled
The wardrobe next the throne
brings very different recollections.
The first object in it is a masquerade
dress of Catherine I. Alongside this
are her coronation robes, the military
dress of Peter II., and other specimens
of wearing apparel. The boots of
•Peter I. and Paul I. stand on eithet
side of the wardrobe. The next throne
is that of Michael. Opposite to it
stands the crown of the kingdom of Ka-
zan. It belonged to Simeon, crowned
Tsar of Kazan, and converted to Chris-
tianity by John the Terrible in 1553.
It is sui-mounted by a topaz, and
adorned with rubies, turquoises, and
pearls. The crown on the next stand
was made for Michael by Russian
artizans. It is richly ornamented with
enamel-work, and surmounted by a
large emerald. There are 190 other
precious stones round it. The second
glass case contains the coronation robes
of the Emperor Alexander II. and his
Empress. The throne of Boris God-
unof comes next. It was the gift of
Abbas Shah of Persia, in 1604, and is
studded with very large turquoises
and innumerable rubies and pearls.
The crown of John, brother of Peter I.,
is on the next stand. It is in the
shape of a mitre, or pyramidal cap
of maintenance, surmounted by a dia-
mond cross, rising from a ruby. The
diamonds with which this magnificent
crown is ornamented are 900 in number.
The orb alongside was made at Con-
stantinople for Alexis in 1662. The
green enamel is profusely studded with
diamonds and eight large sapphires.
In tlie wardrobe opposite hang the coro-
nation robes of the Empresses Anne
and Catherine II. The double throne
of Vermeil was made for the coronation
of John and Peter. The usual Byzan-
tine emblems will be observed. The
crowns of those sovereigns lie opposite.
The costliest crown is 3iat of ttie Em-
press Anne, originally made for Cathe-
rine I. by order of Peter the Great, the
diamonds in it, alone, being 2536 in
number ; but the jewel a£ most value
in it is the ruby, purchased at Pekin
in 1676 by the Ambassador of Alexis.
The tJirone of Paul completes the col-
lection. In the last wardrobe are the
coronation robes of Paul, Alexander I.,
and Nicholas I., with those of their
consorts. In the glass case in the
centre of the room the visitor will find
the Order of the Grarter, and the
patent for it, sent to John the Terrible
by Queen Elizabeth.
A casket in this room contains the
" Ulojenie'," or Code of the Tsar Alexis
(1649), written on sheets of parchment
measuring together 368 yards.
It is impossible, however, to par-
ticularise all the otiier treasures of this
most interesting room, and we must
close our description of it by directing
Eossia.
Boute 6. — Moscow : The Palace.
191
the attention of the visitor to the Staff
or walking-stick of John the Terrible,
with the sharp point of which the Tsar
was in the habit of transfixing the feet
of those with whom he was displeased.
It was with the blow of a similar stick
that he killed his eldest son. The
staff of fish-bone was the gift of Pope
Gregory XIII.
The fourth, or last room upstairs, is
full of stands groaning with the richest
and most curious articles of plate.
Some of the objects here exhibited are
of great antiquity, — a cup of silver bear-
ing an inscription of the 12th centy.
Every domestic vessel has a specimen
in this collection, and their forms will
be studied with interest by the lovers
of art The work of nearly every
country in Europe meets the eye. Our
own silversmiths have contributed
many articles presented to the Tsar
by the ambassadors of James I.,
Charles I., and Charles II. Two jugs
of chased silver, two vases of vermeil,
the covers surmounted by a cavalier
armed with a lance, a ewer weighing
24 lbs., two large jugs, two candle-
sticks, and four dishes, all] of silver,
were brought by the Earl of Carlisle,
ambassador of Charles II. For a de-
tailed description of the plate vide * Le
Tr^sor de- Moscou, 1861/ to be pur-
chaifed at the door.
Returning down stairs, the visitor
wiU be shown some rooms on the rt.,
containing amongst other things the
following remarkable objects : —
In the first room is an immense
model of a palace which Catherine II.
proposed to construct within the
Kremlin, and of which the first stone
was actually laid in 1773. A theatre,
in the shape of the Coliseum at Rome,
waa to have been erected near the
holy gate of the Saviour. The tra-
veller may congratulate the Muscovite
on the plan of such a building having
been abandoned. The small field-
pieces were cast at Tabreez during
its occupation by Russian troops in
1827.
In the second room will be found
portraits of kings of Poland, and of
Polish men of eminence, together
with 22 busts of Zamoiskis, Sapiehas,
Wielopolskis, and other illustrious
Poles.
The old carriages of the court of
Moscow fill the next and last room.
The large vehicle on the right was
presented, together with eight horses,
by Queen Elizabeth to the Tsar Boris
Godunoff. The panels are painted
with allegorical allusions to a crusade
which the Tsar had proposed to make
against the Turks, and in which our
Queen declined to join. The minia-
ture carriage with panes of mica be-
longed to Peter I. when a child. An-
other large carriage on the right
belonged to the Empress Elizabeth.
The panels are painted in the style of
Watteau. The carriage on runners,
with a table and benches covered with
green cloth, was used by the Empress
Elizabeth on her journeys between
St. Petersburg and Moscow. The first
large carriage on the left, lined with
crimson velvet, was made for the Pa-
triarch Philaret. Two camp bed-
steads which belonged to Napoleon,
and were taken at the Berezina, stand
at the upper end of the room. The
cases along the waUs and pillars are
full of saddles and horse-trappings,
dating from the 17th cent.
5. The Malm or Nicolaefski Ihorets,
or Little Palace, facing the Great
Bell, is scarcely worthy of a visit.
Originally built by Cfeitherine, it was
the residence of the Metropolitan
Platon, who presented it, in 1817, to
the Emperor Nicholas. The Emperor
Alexander II. was bom here. The
furniture and arrangements are of
the simplest kind. In the Dining-
room is a picture by CanaLetto, " Elec-
tion of Stanislaus Augustus by the
Diet ot Warsaw in 1764." There are
2 other pictures, by a native artist,
illustrative of the merits of Minin and
Pojarski. In the next room are 2
pictures by Aivazowski, the marine
painter, "the Burning of Moscow,"
and "the Temple of the Saviour,"
now in course of erection. There is
a Polish standard in the 3rd room.
uigiTized by s^jyjKJWiK-
192 Boute 6.—- J!fo«coto ; Cathedrcd of the Assumption, Sect. I.
PLAN OF THE CATHEDRAL OF THE ASSUMPTION AT MOSCOW.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
Bossia. Boute 6t — Moecoto : Cathedral of the Asmmption, 193
EXPLANAtlOlt OP REFERENCES*
A. ** loonastasie," or Screen for the Sacred
Pictures. *.
R ** Benut," or Sancttiiiry.
G. a "Soleas," or Choir.
D. Nave.
E. " Proaulion-'* or Porch,
F. P. F. F. Columna.
1. Principal altar.
3. Throne of the Archbishot)^ Metropolitan,
or Patriarch of Moflcow.
3. Side altar, dedicated to S. Demetrias of
TtiesBalonica.
4. Side altar, dedicated to SS. Peter and
Paul.
These two side altars are separate pieces of
the one diief altar | but placed here to
allow of aooess to them without passing
through the Sanctuary.
5. Stairs leading to " the Chapel of the
Blessed Virgin" in the cupola, where
the election of the Patriarchs took
place.
6* Stairs leading to the Sacristy, containing the
relics and cnrloi^tles of the Church.
t. Tombof S. TheognoBtU8,>Tj*„x_,^i,*„„„
8. Tomb of B. Pete? } Metropolitans.
a. a. a. a. Pictures of the Seven Councils.
h. b. b. Pictures of the Last Judgment.
c. c. e. c, c. c. Pictures of the Life and Death of
the Virgin.
(I. d, d. d. Pictures of the Patriarchs and.
Fathers of the Church.
0i Shrine, containing sacred relics.
10. Tomb of S. Philip, Metropolitan.
11. Sacred Picture of our Lady of Vladimir.
12. Tomb of S. Jonah, Metropolitan.
13. Tabernacle over "the Holy Tunic," pre-
sented to the Church by Phllarct,
Patriarch.
14. Tombs of SS. Photius and Cyprian.
16. The ancient throne of the Tsar (called " of
Vladimir Monomachus").
16. Throne of the Patriarch.
17. Throne of the Empress.
18. Place of the platform on which the Em-
peror is crowned.
19. Totnb of Philaret, Patriarch.
20. Tomb of Hermogenes, Patriarch.
21. Royal doors.
22. Platform in front of the choir.
Th4 pidutU on the Mhr Screeh (A) are thut arranged.
1. The highest Oompafttnent, the Patriarchs
ranged atk each side of the Eternal
Fatiber.
2. The Prophets leanhig towards the Vil|ln
and Son.
3. Minute representatioiiti of the life of the
Saviour.
4. Angda and ApoHties on each side of the
Saviour.
5. The Sacred Pictures or Icons i
(o) " The Blessed Virgin," brought by
Vladimir from Khersonesus.
(b) " The Saviour," sent by the Emperor
Manuel.
(c) " Repose of the Blessed Virgin,"
painted by Peter the Metro-
politan.
On the doors ("the Royal Doors,'' so called because the Tsar or Emperor paiSses through them
on the day of his coronation) are painted the Four Evangelists, to represent that through this
entrance come the glad tidings of the Eucharist On each side of the doors are represented (in
ancient dhurches) Adam and the Penitent Thief, as the first fallen and the first redeemed. On
the farther compartments are represented the Virgin and the Forerunner (the Baptist), and at the
uorthem comer the Saint to whom the Church is dedicated.
On each side of the entrance to the Nave are (sometimes) represented the Publican and the
1*harteee, as the two opposite types of worshipers. Where the Porch is extended, It contains
tb<i Pagan Philosophers and Poets, each with u scroll in his hand contahilng a sentence antici-
patory of the OospeL
l*be south side of the church is always occupied by the Seven CounclU; the north side either
by the life of the Patron Saint of the Ghuroh (in the Uspenslcy Church, of tho Virgin) or by
the Parables. In the Dcmskoi Ohnrch all the events of the Old and New Testaments are
repfesented.
Tbfl oolnmnf an painted with the fignres of martyn
Digitized by VjOOQIC
194
Boute 6. — Moscow : Cathedrals,
Sect. I.
Cathedrals.
6. Uspenshi Sobor, Cathedral of (he
Assumption, — This sacred edifice was
formerly called the Patriarchal Cathe-
dral, but is now known as the Church
of the Assumption, or Eepose of the
Virgin. The emperors are crowned
in it, and the patriarchs formerly
officiated there. The site was ori-
ginally occupied by a church built
in 1325 by the Metropolitan Peter,
when it became the place of sepulture
of the Patriarchs, just as the church
dedicated to St. Michael, in the im-
mediate vicinity, and founded at the
same time, was destined to receive the
remains of the sovereigns of Russia ;
but it was reconstructed between
J475-1479 by Aristotle Fioraventi of
Bologna, with the assistance of native
artists, after the model of the cathe-
dral at Vladimir. It is solidly built,
the foundations being about 14 ft
deep, and the walls and vaults were
wnsiderably strengthened in 1626.
The domes were only covered with
copper-gilt plates in 1684. But, not-
wimstanding these alterations, and
- others which were made after the
great fire of 1737, the Cathedral of the
Assumption retains almost entirely its
primitive form, and is therefore one of
the most interesting Christian monu-
ments in Bussia.
The architectural arrangements (a
mixture of the Byzantine and Lom-
bard) and the ornamentation are all
minutely symbolical, and will there-
fore well repay a careful study of the
plan here annexed, taken' from Dean
Stanley's work on the Eastern Church.
** It is in dimensions,'* says that
learned authority, " what in the West
would be called a chapel rather than
a cathedral. But it is so fraught
with recollections, so teeming with
worshippers, so bursting with tombs
and pictures from the pavement to
the cupola, that its smallness of
space is forgotten in the fullness of
its contents. On the platform of its
nave, from Ivan the Terrible down-
wards to this day, the Tsars have been
crowned. Along its altar-screen are
deposited the most sacred pictures of
Bussia; that, painted by the Metro-
politan Peter ; this, sent by the Greek
Emperor Manuel; that, brought by
Vladimir from Kherson. High in the
cupola is the chapel, where, aa at the
summit of the Bussian Church, the
Russian primates were elected. . . .
Bound the walls are buried the pri-
mates of the Church ; at the four
comers — here, as in aU Oriental build-
ings, the place of honour — lie those
most highly venerated."
St. Peter, the first Metropolitan of
Moscow, lies in a small chapel on the
left side of the Ikonostas, where some
sacred relics are likewise exhibited
to the faithful, such as a nail of the
true cross, and a portion of the robe of
our Saviour. A picture in the Ikonos-
tas— that of the Holy Virgin of Vladi-
mir — will be pointed out as having
been painted by St. Luke. The jewels
with which it is adorned are valued at
4o,000Z.,the emerald alone being worth
10,000Z. It is one of the most ancient
images in Bussia, and is painted on a
composition of wax. The silver shrine
of St. Philip, Metropolitan between
1566 and 1569, which stands conspi-
cuous on the right "wing" of the
Ikonostas, is an object of more than
ordinary interest in connexion with the
ecclesiastical history of Bussia.
Philip was a prelate, bold enough to
rebuke £van the Terrible for his inhu-
man cruelties. The Tsar had just caused
many of his nobles to be put to death,
and, surrounded by his Oprichniks (a
band of lawless adherents who replaced
his ancient nobles at the court), had
devastated numerous villages in the
neighbourhood of Moscow. The people
entreated the Metropolitan to intercede
for them, but he long hesitated, having
given a covenant, prior to bia election,
that he would not interfere with the
Tsar's household. But, having con-
tracted a fourth marriage against the
canons of the church, Ivan was placed
to a certain extent beyond its pale,
and prohibited by the Metropolitan
from assisting at mass, although he
might listen to the Church service
from outside its walls. He neverthe-
Bussia.
Soute 6. — Moscow : Caihedrals.
195
less appeared one day in the body of
the cathedral, accompanied by a crowd
of hid obnoxious followers. Philip
continued to pray as if he were un-
conscious of the Tsar's presence. " The
Tsar demands thy blessing/' said the
Oprichniks ; then the prelate, turning
towards his sovereign, addressed him
in the following words : " Pious Tsar !
whom dost thou emulate, having be-
trayed the beauty of greatness ? Why
hast thou come here, where the offer-
ing to God is a bloodless sacrifice,
— thou, with bloodstained hands?
Whence does the sun stand still in the
heavens? the Tsar is laying waste his
dominions ! ** " Seditious monk," cried
out Ivan, " I am too merciful to trai-
tors ! I will henceforth be what thou
hast called me!" The breach be-
tween the Tsar and the prelate now
became wider and wider. " Silence,"
said Philip, as he rebuked the Tsar,
"lays sins upon the soul, and brings
death to the whole people. I am a
stranger and a pilgrim upon earth, as
all my fathers were, and I am ready
to suffer for the truth." One day he
boldly told him, •* As the image of the
Divinity I reverence thee; as a man
thou art but dust and ashes." Accu-
sations were soon brought against the
Metropolitan, but the council, assem-
bled to try him, separated with shame,
after listening to his defence. He
was officiating in the cathedral when
a band of Oprichniks again entered,
and, after reading the sentence of the
council depriving him of his hi^h
office, dragged the old man from me
altar, replaced his pontifical robes by
a monk's cowl, and, driving him out
of the church with brooms, carried him
off into confinement. His relatives
and friends were seized and executed.
Ivan sent him a hxunan head, with the
inquiry, " Sorcerer, dost thou recognise
this head ? " ** Yes," answered Philip,
" it is the head of my nephew John ; "
and he kissed and blessed it. The
saint was ultimately imprisoned in a
monastery at Tver, where he was put
to death.
This martyr in the cause of mercy
and justice well deserves the honours
of a shrine, and the devotion with
i?ii««a.— 1868.
which it is regarded. The emperor
never fails to place his lips on the ex-
posed and withered forehead of St.
PhiUp.
Hermogenes, Patriarch of Moscow,
who fell a victim to the Polish inva-
sion in 1612, is likewise buried here.
The five domes are supported by
pillars that are covered with frescoes
on a gold ground. There is mucli
gilding on the walls, but the glitter is
somewhat moderated by the grim re-
presentations of depeuH;ed saints of the
church. At the same time it is im-
possible to enter this time-honoured
sanctuary without a feeling of venera-
tion, nor can a grander sight be
possibly imagined than a coronation
within its ancient walls, or even a Te
Deum performed in the presence of
the emperor and the court, particu-
larly on the 15th (27th) August, the
annual feast of the Church, when His
Majesty sometimes ^oes there in
state. A coronation is of course a
still better opportunity. " The corona-
tion, "we again extract from Stanley,
"even at t£e present time, is not a
mere ceremony, but a historical event,
and solemn consecration. Jf, is pre*
ceded by fiisting and seclusion, and
takes place in the most sacred church
in Bussia ; the emperor, not, as in the
corresponding forms of European in-
vestiture, a passive recipient, but him-
self the principal figure in the whole
scene ; himself reciting aloud the con-
fession of the orthodox faith ; himself
alone on his knees, amidst the assem-
bled multitude, offering up the pray^er
of intercession for the empire; hmi-
self placing his own crown on his own
head; himself entering through the
sacred door of the innermost sanctuaiy,
and taking from the altar the elements
of the bread and wine."
The wooden throne which will bo
shown to the visitor as the throne of
Wladimir Monomachus (a.d. 988) is
probably of the 17th century. The
Tsars before Peter stood in it attired
in their robes during Divine service.
Behind the altar-screen, among
other treasures, stands a Mount Sinai
of pure gold, the gift of Prince Potem-
kin. It contains the Host, and is said
L
196
Boule Q.-^Moscow : CcUhedrdU*
Sect. I.
to weigh 120,000 ducats. Several
state papers of importance are de-
posited under it, such as the Act of
Succession of the Emperor Paul, and
the Abdication of his son Gonstantine.
A Bible, presented by the mother of
Peter the Great, is so large that it
almost requires two men to carry it,
and it is said to weigh about 100 lbs.
English. It is studded with emeralds
and other precious stones.
7. Arkhangelshi Sobor, Cathedral of
the Archangel Michael. — This church
stands close to the cathedral of the
Assumption, of which it is partly a
copy. It is a square whitewa^ed
building, with nine gilded domes, and
was originally built in 1333 to com-
memorate the deliverance of Bussia
from a dreadful famine. The present
building, however, only dates from
1505. In ancient days the Tsars
visited this cathednd immediately after
their coronation, and on leaving it
spread " largesse " of gold and silver
among the people. Until the acces-
sion of Peter the Great, it was the
mausoleum of the Burik and Bo-
manoff dynasties, beginning with John
Kalitk, grandson or Alexander Ne-
vsky. The vaults below contain the
remains of numerous princes of those
families ; their titles and ages are
Inscribed on the pall-covered tombs,
among which the stranger may wan-
der. Bound the walls, above each
coflSn, are the effigies of the dead in
long white robes. The only emperor
buried here is Peter II., son of the
unfortunate Alexis. To the orthodox,
the object of paramount attraction is
the tomb supposed to contain the
body of the young Demetrius or
Dmitri, son of John the Terrible, and
who, having mysteriously disappeared,
is believed to have been assassinated
by orders of Boris Godunoff, subse-
quently elected Tsar. The appear-
ance, later, of several pretenders,
plunged the country into internecine
strife, causing great bloodshed and
disorder, which only terminated on
the election of Michael Bomanoff. A
miracle connected with the discovery
if the coffin and body of the canonized
prince caiises the shrine to be regarded
with extreme veneration by the people,
who come to kiss the forehead exposed
to view. His portrait, in a frame of
fine gold, is attached to a pillar above
the coffin. The inhabitsoits of the
town of Uglitch, where the prince was
murdered, presented the tall silver
candlestick which stands near the
tomb.
Historically, the tomb of greatest
interest is that of John IV. or " Terri-
ble," who, notwithstanding his nume-
rous offences against the canons of the
Church, now lies next the altar. Twice
a year a funeral service is performed
for the sins of all those that are buried
here, the Church praying for "that
burden of sins, voluntary or involun-
tary, known to themselves or un-
known," which the departed committed
when on earth. Most of the prayers
put up at this cathedral have been
paid for in the most handsome manner
in the shape of gorgeous vestments
and massive ch. vessels, exhibited on
application to the priest. Ladies will
have to remain outside the Ikonostas,
but the male traveller must have tlie
patience to inspect the treasures of the
sacristy, and, if permitted, to bring
them out to the excluded. The erne*
raids on the richer saJskos are huge
and very fine. There is a magnificent
illuminated version of the Gospels (one
of the earliest copies in Bussia), in a
splendid enamelled cover of fine gold,
profusely studded with precious stones.
Among other ecclesiastical objects,
too numerous to mention, is a very old
lantern of mica, brought away from
Novgorod by John IV. It is in ex-
cellent preservation, having been re-
cently gilded, and is still carried in
Church processions.
A cross which belonged to John the
Terrible is likewise remarkable for the
size of the pearls in it ; the emerald is
l-3rd of an inch in diameter.
The altar-screen is very valuable,
being much adorned with gold. One
of the images or shrines in it contains
a drop of the blood of John the Bap-
tist shown through a glass.
The priest should have a fee for ex-
hibiting the antiquities, as well as tho
Bnssia.
Houte 6. — Moscow : Cathedrals.
197
sacristEUi, wIiQ will be found to speak
excellent Frendi.
8. Blagoveschemhi Sobor, Cathedral
of the Annunciation, — ^While the Tsars
were crowned in the cathedral of the
Assumption, and buried in the ch.
dedicated to the Archangel Michael,
they went through two other very im-
portant ceremonies in the cathedral of
the Annunciation, for there they were
baptized and married. Numerous
relics attest the religious importance
of the edifice. John the Terrible,
when reduced, by his transgression of
the canon law, to the state of a cate-
chumen, listened outside the walls of
the cathedral to the mass celebrated
within, but the window at which he
stood is no longer visible. The Rrench
stabled their horses there in 1812.
The frescoes are curious. Those in
the portico representing the Greek
Philosophers as heralds of the coming
of Christ should be noticed. The
floor is paved with jasper and agate.
9. Church of the Bedeemer in the
Wood {8pa88 na Borii).— This sacred
miniature edifice is almost concealed
by the huge palace buildings. The
traveller is sure to catch a glimpse of
it from one of the palace windows. It is
one of the oldest churches in the Krem-
lin, or even in Moscow, and was ori-
ginally founded where a small wood
once crowned the summit of the emi-
nence now occupied by the Kremlin.
It was a monastery In the 15th centy.
The fires of Moscow and its invaders
have left but little of antiquarian in-
terest to attract the notice of the tra-
veller. It is only interesting as the
parent ch. of Moscow, and as contain-
ing the relics of Stephen of Perm, the
firat Christian missionary and martyr
in Bussia. His life is depicted in
frescoes around the walls, renovated
in 1863.
10. Sacrittyof the former Patriarche,
and now of the HcHy Synod, Pairiarshaya
(^Synodatnayd) Biznit$a. — This was the
Treaaury, Library, and Vestry, first of
the ancient metropolitans of Bussia,
then of the Patriarchs of Moscow, and
is now called the House of the Holy
Synod, an institution which replaced
the Patriarchate in 1721, in the reign
of Peter the Great. It stands close to
the Cathedral of the Assumption, and
is open daily to visitors. The Sacristy
contains many objects of art of great
antiquity, a few of which have been
brought from Constantinople. The
sacerdotal robes and ornaments, the
church vessels, and the plate of the
several patriarchs are deposited here.
Among the former may be noticed
some very rich robes or sakkos; the
most venerable of these is that of St.
Peter, who was Metropolitan between
the years 1308 and 1325. Most of the
Patnarchs of Moscow were invested
with this sacred garment at their con-
secration. Among the sakkos. No. 15,
of crimson velvet, is the most remark-
able for the richness of its ornaments ;
it is embroidered all over with pearls
of a large size, although but few of
them are characterised by the round
and symmetrical forms that are valued
in jewellery ; it is also adorned by a
number of small gold plates with sa-
cred subjects and devices produced in
niello-work. The rubies, emeralds, al-
mandines, garnets, and diamonds with
which this gorgeous pontifical robe is
further ornamented, contribute to the
54 pounds which it is said to weigh.
John the Terrible presented it to the
Metropolitan Denys, in memory of
the Tsesarevitch John, and probably
in expiation of his murder. These
ancient robes, in their lavish magnifi-
cence, present a curious contrast to the
more simple, although still gorgeous,
vestments in which the Emperor Alex-
ander n. clothed the venerable Plularet
at his coronation in 1856.
The mitres, seven in number, depo-
sited in the second room, are no less
rich and interesting. The most ancient
was worn by the Patriarch Job in 1595.
Four of them belonged to the cele-
brated Nicon. The most valuable of
these, called the great mitre, is studded
with large diamonds, rubies, emeralds,
sapphires, and pearls, and weighs 5^
pounds.
In glazed cases at the windows will
be found several panagias, or images
L 2
198
Boute 6. — Moscow : Cathedrals.
Sect. I.
worn on a chain round the necks of
bishops and other members of the
hierarchy. The most remarkable are
— No. 11, in gold, semi-oval, orna-
mented with spinel rubies and large
pearls, in the centre of which is an
onyx bearing in cameo a figure of the
prophet Daniel. This gem was worn
by the Metropolitan Peter. No. 2, the
figures of the Virgin and infant Sa-
viour, cut in low relief in a Byzantine
style, but probably work of cinque-
cento date, on a magnificent sardonyx
of three layers. No. 3, a sardonyx of
equal splendour, on which a figure of
St. John the Scholastic is cut in a
brown upper layer, resting on two
strata that form a vast nioolo of perfect
beauty, the strata of the stone being
well exhibited by the bevilling of its
sides. The work on this stone is also
probably of the cinqueoento period,
and is supposed to have been executed
for John tne Terrible, in commemora-
tion of the birth of his unfortunate son
in 1555. At the back of this gem is a
reliquary containing a fragment of the
purple robe in which our Saviour was
in derision clothed, and a piece of the
rock of Calvary. The enamel on the
back represents Mark, Bishop [of Are-
thusa, and Cyril the Deacon. These
two great sardonyxes are of nearly
equal dimensions, each being about 3^
inches long and 2} in breadfii. In 14 o.
4 we meet with another gem, a dark
onyx with a white surface layer, in
which is cut in relief a representation
of the Crucifixion. On the other side
is seen a Greek cross, supported by the
Emperor Constantino and his mother
Helena. This panagia was worked for
Job the first Patriarch, who was con-
secrated in 1589, and who in 1605 was
driven by a rebel mob from the altar
in the Cathedral of the Assumption
and divested of his Pontifical robes.
Among the rest of the ornaments of
this kind are several of very fine work-
manship in gold and enamel, attributed
to a very early period.
Of the crosiers exhibited here three
belonged to the Patriarch Philaret,
and the other two were carried by the
Patriarch Nicon.
A copper vase, with a long narrow
neck, overlaid with scales of mother-of-
pearl, and caUed the Alabaster, is here
shown as the original receptacle of the
chrism sent from Constantinople. It
is, however, evidently of more modem
date. The few drops annually taken
from it are by ancient usage replaced
by an equal quantity of the new chrism,
which thus represents to the fidthful a
portion of the precious ointment used
by Mary Magdalene.
The plate of the patriarchs, kept in
a large glass case, is chiefly of the 17th
centy. Most of the goblets, dishes,
and cups bear the names of their
donors, or of the persons to whom they
belonged.
A complete account of the ecclesias-
tical treasures of the sacristy will be
found in a small work in the French
language which may be purchased on
the spot.
In a contiguous room, shown on
application to the Sacristan, is pre-
pared, in strict accordance with an
ancient formula, the sacred oil or
"mir," employed in the baptism of
every orthodox Bussian subject. It is
also used in the consecration of all the
churches of the orthodox communion,
and in the anointment of the emperors
at their coronation. At the baptism
of children the priest crosses with a
small camel-hair brush, or feather,
dipped in the oil, the mouth, eyes,
ears, hands, and feet, besides the back
and breast : the eyes are anointed in
order that the child may only see
good, the ears that they may admit
only what is pure, the mouth that he
may speak as becomes a Christian, the
hands that they may do no wrong, and
the feet that they may tread in the
path of virtue. The ingredient that
hallows this preparation is an infi-
nitesimal portion of the sacred oil
transmitted from Constantinople when
Christianity was introduced into Bus-
sia. The chrism is annually prepared
during Lent, with much solemnity, by
the Metropolitan of Moscow and the
higher clergy. It is composed of
nearly thirty different elements, oil
and white wine being intermixed with
a great variety of gums, balsams,
essential oils, and spices. Two great
Bussifl.
Boute 6. — Moscow : Convents.
199
silver kettles and a still larger silver
caldron, all presented by the Empress
Oatherine 11., and kept in the plate-
room, receive the sacred mixture
during its preparation; it is then
poured into sixteen silver jars, gifts of
the Emperor Paul, and distributed on
application to the bishops of the seve-
ral dioceses. The ladles, the sieve for
straining, and everything employed in
the operation are of silver, and weigh
together about 13 cwt
The Library of the Patriarchs or
Synod is supposed to have been founded
by the ancient Metropolitans, but its
greatest treasures were acquired during
the Patriarchate of Nicon (1652-1658),
for the purpose of comparing the cor-
rupted ritual of the Russo-Greek
Church with the more ancient manu-
scripts, Greek and Slavonian. The
printed books which the library ori-
ginally contained have been removed
to other collections. In 1823 the Sy-
nodal Library boasted of 467 Greek
MSS., of which 242 on parchment;
and 956 Kusso-Slavonian MSS., of
which 96 on parchment. Very few
additions have been made since. Three
copies in Greek of the Evangelists, de-
posited here, are attributed to the 8th
centy., and the earliest Slavonian MS.
in this collection is supposed to have
been written in the year 1073. The
most ancient Slavonian version of the
Gospels, in this library, bears the date
of 1143.
The Metropolitan, or the Suffhigan
Bishop of Moscow, will, on application,
give the student of patristic literature
ready access to this extensive and im-
S>rtant collection. A catalogue in
ussian may be purchased of the
sacristan, whose kind services should
be rewarded.
11. Chudof OT Mirade Monastery (ai
the Eedeemer Gate). — ^The spot on
which tliis monastery stands was occu-
pied during the Tartor invasion hj the
stables of Djanibek, the dommant
Khan, whose wife, Taidula, having
been cured of a disease by St. Alexis,
Metropolitan of all Russia, presented
the latter with the ground now so
Uoly. In 1865 St. Alexis laid the
foundation of the monastery, which
thenceforth became the residence and
Cathedral of the Primates. Successive
fires destroyed the buildings erected
by the piety of various princely bene-
factors. The Cathedral was restored
by the Tsar Michael and his father
the Patriarch Philaret, but its present
appearance is due to the munificence
of the Empresses Anne and Elizabeth.
It was sacked during a revolt in 1771,
and pillaged in 1812, when it was
occupied by the staflf of Napoleon.
Before the spoliation of the monasteries
by Catherine II., this establishment
had no less than 18,681 male serfs
attached to it. The church of St.
Michael was built by St. Alexis in
1365, rebuilt 1504, and restored in
1779. Its canonised founder lies in a
silver shrine near the S. wall of the
cathedral dedicated to his name. His
Sakkoi and other pontificals are pre-
served in a glass case near the shrine.
St. Michael's Church stands in the
yard of the monastery, and is not open
daily. It is, however, well worth
seeing since its restoration in tlie
ancient style. The sacristy contains a
MS. copy of the New Testament exe-
cuted by St. Alexis, and much treasure
in the eiiape of jewelled vestments and
religious msignia. The library con-
tains 236 MSS. on parchment and
paper, and 199 printed books. There
is a Psalter of the 13th centy. and
another of the 15th. The oldest
printed books are of the 17th centy.
By ancient custom, children before
being put to school are brought by
their parents to this monastery to
invoke the blessing of St. Alexis on
their studies, and the peasants of a
village formerly belonging to the saint
still come on his name-^y to pray to
their Lord.
12. Vomesemhi Devichi (Ascension)
Convent, — This nunnery was founded
by Eudoxia, wife of Dimitry of the
Don, in 1393, who retired to it after
the death of the Conqueror of Kuli-
kova. Although the princess fasted
rigorously and wore heavy weights, she
was wont to appear in the world attired
in costly dress and precious stones,
200
Boute 6. — Moscow : Arsenal.
Sect. I.
thereby giving rise to a certain amount
of soandaX which she however refuted
by exhibiting th6 withering effects of
her self-imposed penance. At last,
however, she retired entirely from the
world, and devoted her life to prayer
and the healing of the sick. Thence-
£3rth the nunnery became the last
resting-place of the princesses of the
reigning house. Consumed frequently
by fires, the convent in its present form
was built in 1721, and renovated after
the conflagration of 1737 and the
French occupation. The cells occupy
2 floors of a large stone building. The
principal church stands in the centre
of the court. The tombs of the prin-
cesses begin at the S. door and termi-
nate at the N. entrance, being ranged
in two rows along the walEi. The
most ancient is that of Eudoxia> or St.
Eudoxia* bs she is called by the
Church, adorned with a silver shrine
placed in 1822. On the rt. hand near
the wall lies Eudoxia, the consort of
Michael, the first sovereign of the
Bomanoff dynasty (obiit 1645) : next
to her are the 2 wives of his son
Alexis. The tombs of the 2 wives of
John III. will be found on the 1., at
the head of the tomb of Eudoxia.
Next in the comer lies the first of his
consorts, Mary, daughter of the Prince
of Tver ; and by her side are the re-
mains of Sophia, daughter of Thomas
PalsBologus, brother of the last Chris-
tian Emperor of Constantinople. An-
other descendant of this Palaeologus
lies buried in the churchyard of the
parish of Landulph in Cornwall. He
died in 1636. The mother of John
the Terrible comes next. Beyond are
the tombs of 4 of his 6 wives ; the last
tomb is that of Eudoxia, first consort
of Peter the Great, who died in 1731.
13. Araenal and Cannon.— The arse-
nal stands between the Trinity and
Kicholas Grates, on the spot where the
Streltsi once mustered, and where
stood the houses of many puissant
Boyars. Its construction, on the
model of the arsenal of Venice, was
commenced in 1701, and finished in
'^6. The N.E. aDgle was blown up
812, and has since been restored.
The cannon taken during the retreat
of the French are arranged in Ipng
rows along the outside walls of the
building. The French artillery is
represented by 365 pieces, the Aus-
trian by 189, the Prussian by 123, the
Italian by 70, the Neapolitan by 40,
the Bavarian by 34, the Dutch by 22,
the Saxon by 12, the Spanish by 8, the
Polish by 5, while Westphalia, Han-
over, and Wurtemburg, make up the
total of 875. The rest are mere orna-
mental pieces of ordnance cast in
Russia. The huge cannon projecting
from the furthest angle of the arsenal
is called the Tsar-Pushka or Tsar-
Cannon, on account of its extraordi-
nary size. It was cast during tiie
reign of Theodore, whose eflBgy is on
it. Its weight is nearly 40 tons.
There is also a mortar which was cast
by the false Dmitry. When Peter,
after the battle of Narva, ordered the
old cannon and many church-bells to
be recast into ordnance, he spared this
historical monument by a special
IJkaz. The longest cannon was cast
in the reign of Alexis. The building
opposite is the Senate-house — the
High Court of Appeal of Moscow. It
was built by Catherine II., and re-
stored 1866. In it are established the
new Courts of Law, with trial by jury
in criminal cases. The magnificent
hall is well worth seeing.
II. Kitai Gorod, or " Chinese Totvn"
— ^The Kremlin having become over-
crowded, Helena, the mother and re-
gent of John the Terrible, ordered a
large space to be enclosed outside the
Kremlin, and to be called after her
birthplace Kitaigrod in Podolia. The
Kremlin was the CasteUum and the
Kitai the Civitas. The walls were
commenced in 1535 by Petroc^ an
Italian. The following objects should
be visited in the Kitai Gorod ; —
1. CathedraZofStBaaaiheBeaiified,
Vassili Blaj&nnoi (also called the Ca-
thedral of the Protection and the
Trinity). — This remarkable ch. stands
on the Krasnaya Ploschad (Red or
Eiissia.
Bouie 6. — Moscow : The Ldbnoe Mesto,
201
Beautiful Place), outside the Holy
Gate of the Kremlin wall. It is
erected on the site of an ancient ch.
and cemetery, in which the sainted
Basil, a pqpalar prophet and worker
of miracles, who, in the language of
the Church, was " idiotic for Christ's
sake," waa buried in the year 1552.
Two years kiter John the Terrible
ordered a ch. to be built over the re-
mains of BasU, in commemoration of
the subjugation of Kazan. In 1555 the
wooden ch. thus built was taken down
and the foundation of the present edi-
fice laid. Its architect was an Italian,
whose eyes, tradition wrongly reports,
were put out by John the Terrible after
the construction of the ch., in order that
it might not be equalled or surpassed.
It is supposed to have been fini^ed in
the latter part of the 16th centy. by
Theodore, the son and successor of
John rV., who caus^ to be placed in
this ch. the relics of another saint,
John the Idiot, sumamed the " Water-
carrier and Big-cap," from his habit of
carrying water for others, and from his
wearing a heavy iron cap on his head.
Idiotcy is a form of mendicancy very
common in Russia, the people being
religiously compassionate in cases of
mental aberration. Beggars of this
description still go about Moscow bare-
footed in winter. The ch. of St. Basil
suffered frequently from fire, and was
under repair from 1744 to 1784. In
1812 Napoleon ordered the general in
command of his artillery ** to destroy
that mosque ; " but it was spared for
reconsecration on the 1st December of
the same year.
The cathedral is grotesquely irregu-
lar in appearance. It has 11 domes,
eaxjh different in colour and design,
surmounting as many chapels dedicated
to various saints. The shrine of St.
Basil reposes in the chapel below,
which is alone open daily. In order
to see the upper Chapels application
must be made to the clergy of the
church. Visitors will be shown the
heavy chains and crosses which St.
Basil wore for penance. The iron
weights which belonged to the other
idiot will be viewed in another chapel.
His cap was lost in 1812.
2. The " Ldbno^ Mesto** a circular
tribune of stone outside tiie cathedral
of St. Baail.— It was also called the
" Kranievo Mesto," from cranium, its
present appellation being also derived
from lob, a skull, or golgothfb. But as
the tribune was built by Italian archi-
tects early in the 16th centy., its name
is probably identical with the labium
or loUa, in the dialect of Milan — a
raised place or open portico where
the citizens assembled to deliberate,
suggestive of the lobby of the House of
Commons. Popular tradition asserts
that this tribune was anciently a place
of execution; but modem archsaolo-
gists dispute it, and insist on its having
been merely a place from which the
Tsar addressed the people, and where
his edicts were proclaimed. The first
mention of the Lobnoe Mesto is in
1549, after a dreadful fire and riot,
when John the Terrible stood on it, and
weeping acknowledged his misrule and
solemnly promised to be in ftiture the
judge and defender of his subjects. The
metropolitan and patriarchs of Moscow
blessed the people from this tribune.
Nicon stood here and gave Alexis that
blessing which, having been ineffica-
cious in overturning the Poles, brought
down upon him the wrath of his sove-
reign and laid the foundation of his
disgrace. The ceremony of riding on
an ass, performed in great state by the
patriarchs before Easter, was opened by
the reading of the Gospels on this
Golgotha. The patriarch, carrying the
cup and the Gospels, mounted an ass
at the foot of the tribune, and the Tsar
led it by the bridle to the cathedral of
the Assumption. In 1682 the leaders
of the Dissenters addressed the Mosco-
vites from the Lobno4 Mesto in defence
of their objections to the innovations of
Nicon. The space in front remained
the place of execution until 1727, when
Peter II. ordered the gallows and stakes
to be removed.
3. The Bomanqff House (Palata
Boyar JRomanovykh), — A visit to this
palatium will afford the traveller an
opportunity of studying the archi-
tecture and mode of life of the Rus-
sians in the middle ages. The Romanoff
202
BotUe 6. — Moscow : Bomanoff House.
Sect. I.
House, restored between 1856 and 1859,
was the birthplace of Miclmel, the first
sovereign of the reigning dynasty,
whose father, the Boyar Theodore,
known later as Philaret, Patriarch of
Moscow, was also brought up tiiere.
The external walls, built of stone, are
alone of undoubted antiquity ; the in-
terior, after having been ravaged by
fire and sacked by the French, is now
entirely rebuilt in the style of Russian
dwelling-houses of the 16th and 17th
centuries. It is more a museum of
ancient domestic art than a monument
of antiquity.
The house stands on the slope of a
small eminence, and haa 4 stories
on the S. towaixls the court, and only
one facing Varvarskaia-street, where
it occupies a frontage of about 57 ft.
The principal entrance is from the
court.
Cellars for wine, mead, beer, kvass,
and ice, form the basement ; the next
story is devoted to the kitchen and
various offices. The apartments of the
Boyar are above. These consist of a
vestibule, to the right of which is a
room for female servants; next to this
again visitors will find a diminutive
nursery, in which are exhibited the
toys and primers of the period. The
largest room on this floor is called
the Chapel, or ** Krestovaya " (Chamber
of the Cross). Here' the chief of the
family received the priests who came
to offer their congratulations at Christ-
mas, Easter, and other great holydays,
and assisted with his dependants at
matins and vespers. The roof is arched
in a kind of Gothic style with niches,
the whole being richly ornamented
with devices taken from patents deli-
vered by the Tsar Michael.
The family plate and other valuables
were preserved in this sacred chamber.
Some curious specimens are exhibited
on a stand, which, in the language of
the country, was called a gorka or
mountain. The traveller will recog-
nise a small equestrian statuette of
Charles I., and by their make 2 ewers
presented by Charles II. At great
festivals the plate was piled up in the
entre of the table. Goblets and other
sels of silver were very much in
I fashion, and were, in the absence of
orders of knighthood and of medals,
bestowed by the sovereign in recom-
pense of meritorious . services. There
are many objects of antiquity in this
chamber illustrative of tho domestic
habits of the Tsars. There are also
several secret recesses in the walls for
the concealment of treasure. A glass
cupboard contains some ancient images,
and among them is one with which,
tradition says, Philaret blessed his son
when he was elected Tsar, and with
that image also the present metropo-
litan Philaret blessed the Emperor
Alexander II. at the benediction of
the Bomanoff House on its restoration.
Alongside this chamber are a small
oratory and the " Boyarskaia Palata,"
a kind of study. On a table in the
latter are writing materials and twd
brass inkstands after the model of
those used in England in the days of
Chaucer. The lion and unicorn, with
which these are decorated in relief,
are Byzantine emblems, and have
-nothing tf> do with the supporters of
the royal arms of England.
It is heated by a stove of coloured
tiles with allegorical figures and various
inscriptions; thus on one biick the
visitor will see two birds separating
from each other, with the motto,
" Fidelity unites us ; " on another a
tortoise with the humorous adage,
** There is no better house than one's
own." Mbo^*8 fables were frequently
represented on the bricks of that period.
A door leads from the Krestovaya,
by a narrow staircase, to the top story
or terero, a name supposed to be de-
rived from a Greek word, signifying
"upper floor reserved for women."
The terem is built of wood, and in-
cludes the bedchamber, the svetlitsa or
reception-room, and a turret.
Below are two rooms which formed
the Nursery. In it will be seen a
cradle, toys, primers, &c., of the early
part of the 17th centy.
The walls and ceiling of the bed-
chamber are very richly carved in
wood after ancient patterns. Benches,
covered with brocade, line the walls,
and an old 4-post bedstead completes
the fiimiture of the apartment. There
Enssia.
Boute 6. — Moscow: Bazaar,
203
is a small box at the foot of the bed,
which the curious are advised to look
into. It contains, among other things,
the slippers of the Tsar, and the
chemise de nuit of a Tsarina. The
room next to it is the hall of reception;
its walls are covered with stamped
leather. There is a charming view
from the windows of this apartment
towards the city, beyond the Moskva
and Yaouza rivers.
The roof, which is covered with tin
plates, is prettily ornamented with open
work in copper, and a pavilion on the
west is surmounted by a vane, in the
form of a griffin, holding a short sword
in one paw and a shield in the other,
being the offensive and defensive
w^mons borne in the Bomanoff arms.
The lions on the staircase bear
shields wiih the same cognizance.
A small fee should be given to the
two servants at the door. Open on
Mondays and Thursdays by ticket, to
be obtained at the office within the
Kremlin.
In the same street stood the house of
the first English merchants in Russia,
where they also coined money. It is
now called the Sibirskoe Podvorie, or
Siberian hostelry.
4. Strastny (Passion) Monastery,
General View of Moscow, — The traveller
will by this time be tired of viewing
palaces and antiquities, and will be
glad to see other objects. He is there-
fore advised to proceed to the " Strastny
Monastir," not far from the governor's
house, which stands on some of the
highest ground in Moscow, and affords
an excellent view of the city, The
belfiy may be ascended without any
permission, the door leading to it
being generally open. Although the
tower of Ivan Veliki is loftier, yet the
panorama seen from the belfry of
the Strastny, situated in the heart
o/ the city, gives a fej better impres-
sion of its size and beauty.
Inhere is nothing of interest within
the " Strastny." It dates from the
reign of Alexis, and was restored in
1779.
5. Gogtinnoi Dvorj or Bazaar, — The
trade of Moscow has been centered
VTithin the Kitai Gorod since 1596.
The Gostinnoi Dvor is a colossal build-
ing of 3 stories, and the shops and pas-
sages form a perfect labyrinth. The
statue opposite the bazaar represents
Minin ue peasant urging Fojarsky
the boyar to deliver Moscow from his
enemies tlie Poles. The traveller
should ask to see the Serebriani Biad
or Silver Bow, where spoons and other
small articles of plate of Bussian manu-
facture may be cheaply bought ; brace-
lets and snuff-boxes of Tulk or niello-
work make very pretty presents, the
former costing 3 to 4 r. There are 2
or 3 curiosity shops in the same row ;
but travellers unacquainted with the
system of bargaining should be very
careful in makmg purchases, and con-
fine themselves to a general view of
the market. (Purcha^rs of pictures,
old china, and silver, should visit Bodi-
onof s shop in Pokrovka-street.) The
use of the stcheti or aba,cu8 (the Tartar
suanpan) is a curious feature in Bus-
sian trading, and will be constantly
seen here. A little way beyond the
bazaar, on the opposite side of the
street, are some shops where Circassian
wares are sold. Experience, however,
speaks in favour of the assortments of
these goods at St. Petersburg. The
washing silks of the Caucasus, at about
1 r. 25 c. the arshin, are very good.
The secondhand shops along tiiie wall
of the Kitai Gorod present an odd
mixture of trades and mercantile types.
The visitor may stroll past them. The
only other market worthy of a rapid
glance is, during the proper season,
the winter market outside the Kitai
walls.
Immediately after tlie frost has fairly
set in, an indiscriminate elaughter of
live stock of all kinds commences.
The carcase is exposed at once to the
cold air and frozen, without being
previously allowed to become cold:
when wanted for use, it is immersed
in water for a few minutes, and after
being tims thawed the meat may bo
used, but it has not the freshness and
flavour that it would have if just
killed ; when once thawed it must
be cooked without^elaj^ If it has
L 3
204
BotUe 6. — Moscow : Foundling Hospital,
Sect. I,
been allowed to oool before it is frozen,
although no difference is perceptible
while in its frozen state, immediately
on being thawed the meat turns black,
and is totally unfit for use ; and the
same result ensues upon the &ost
breaking up in the spring. But it cer-
tainly is a good expedient, not only to
save the expense of keeping the ani-
mals so many months, but to have their
flesh at any moment fresh, while its
icy hardness is an effectual protection
against the injuries it might otherwise
sustain in being conveyed from one
extremity of the country to the other.
Early in the winter the first great frozen
market is held in aU the large cities,
and all prudent housekeepers lay in
as ample a supply of provisions as their
means will enable them. Merchants
with provisions then crowd to Moscow
and St. Petersburg from all quarters of
the empire. The fish of the White Sea
and of the great northern lakes are
piled in huge heaps in the streets, side
by side with the frozen oxen from the
steppes of the Crimea, the sheep from
the shores of the Caspian, and the
deer from the banks of the Enisei and
Irtish. The number of persons em-
ployed in this traffic is enormous, and
the entire interruption to it, caused
by the occupation of Moscow by the
French in 1812, just at ^e time of
the great market, contributed not a
little to increase the miseries of war.
On one or two occasions a sudden
break of the frost, after a week or
fortnight's continuance, when imimense
quantities of &ozen provisions have
been thawed on their way to the
markets, has caused not only great loss
to the merchants, but serious incon-
venience to the inhabitants of the large
cities, who, relying on this regular
supply, make no other preparation for
their wants.
6. Ivershi^ Vorota, Iberian Gate and
Chapel, dedicated to the Iberian Mother
of God. — This is the principal entrance
and exit into the Kitai Gorod. The
chapel contains a picture of the Iberian
Mother of God, brought from Mount
* "os in the reign of Alexis, and con-
i to be of miraculous efficacy. It
.ys beset by worshippers, whose
donations amount to about 10,OOOZ. per
annum, of which lOOOl. is contributed
towards the pay of the Metropolitan of
the see of Mx^cow. The devotional
habits of the Russian people may be
watched here with interest.
Having viewed the Kremlin and
Kitai Gorod, the traveller should drive
to see the places below enumerated.
Detached Sights.
Foundling Hospital,— 'So traveller
should omit a visit to this institution,
for which an order is easily procured.
The sight of this huge nursery is as
curious as it is instructive, and will
afford plenty of materials for reflection
to the moralist, or the student of social
science. It was opened in 1763 by the
Empress Catherine IL, and organized
in accordance with the views of Betski,
an enunent philanthropist of that reign,
whose portrait is exhibited in a gallery,
together with the likenesses of succes-
sive benefectors too numerous to men-
tion. A Lombard bank or Mont de
Piet^ now in liquidation, and a Savings
Bank which still flourishes, have hi-
therto been the sources of revenue of
this establishment, but the facilities
afforded by railways of bringing in-
fants to a common centre threaten
seriously to make inadequate the ways
and means now suppUed by the Govern-
ment since the concentration of all
financial institutions in the State
Bank. The yearly grant amounts to
about ISO.OOOZ.
A lying-in hospital, with secret
wards, but open likewise to mothers
who are only poor, occupies one of
the wings, while the largest and
best part of the square bmlding is
devoted to an institution for female
orphans. More than 2000 women have
recourse annually to the secret wards,
and about 200 to those reserved for
cases of poverty. The Foundling
hospital admits yearly about 12,000
children, who are not left, as in
some other institutions of a similar
kind, at the door of the building, but are
taken openly, either by their mothers
Eussia.
Boute 6. — Moscow : Foundling Hospital.
205
or some friend, into an entrance room
set apart for liie purpose. Here the
infant is at once received without any
further question being asked than,
" Has the child been baptised ? " and if
so, "By what name?" The child is
then registered in the books of the
institution ; a number is assigned to it,
which is henceforward worn around its
neck, and figures on its cot, while a
receipt, showing the same number, is
handed to the bearer of thd child, in
order to enable her to visit, or even
claim it at any future period up to the
age of 10 years. The infant is then
passed into another room, where, after
being undressed and washed, it is
swaddled in the clothes of the Hospital,
and handed to its future foster parent,
she being the woman who happens at
the moment to stand at the head of tiie
list amongst a number who are always
waiting in attendance. These women,
who are generally peasants from the
country, have fi?equently, it is believed,
themselves been the depositors of their
own children at the hospital a few
hours previously, but probably the
great majority are mothers who have
left their own childem in the country to
be brought up by hand, being attracted
by the wages of 6d. and sometimes Sd,
a day and the good fetre provided them
in the institution.
From the room where the Infants
are received, the visitor wiU doubtless
pass with interest from one ward to
another of this vast hoe^ital, where
he will not fail to perceive Ihat no-
thing which good domestic manage-
ment can suggest^ or medical art (ap-
prove, has been omitted. The whole
establishment is conducted with the
regularity of clockwork under the
management and supervision of an ex-
perienced and intelUgent medical staff,
while the smallest and most trivial
operation is performed with the utmost
delicacy of which the female hand is
capable. The simple arts of washing
and dressing are brought to a perfection,
and executed with a rapidity, unknown
elsewhere. The infants are bathed in
copper tubs of the most convenient form,
lined with thick flannel, and they are
dressed on down pillows, instead of on
the bony knees, or the still more cruel
hoops, of modem nurses. There are
distinct wards for every illness to whicli
the children are liable, with the newest
and most approved appliances fitted to
each. In the ward for eye diseases,
the visitor should try to see the eye
syringe in use. The utmost attention
is bestowed on infants prematurely
bom, whose life is sustained by placing
them in hollow copper bassinets, the
sides and bottom of which are filled
with hot water.
The morning after their admission,
the children, if not already baptized,
are admitted within the pale of the or-
thodox Church, receiving the Christian
name of the saint who may happen to
preside over that day in the Bussian
calendar, and, for a surname, the
Christian name of the priest who ofii-
ciates, with the addition of the ** off,*'
BO familiar in Bussian patronymics.
After remaining in the institution for
4 weeks, and having been vaccinated^
the infants, if strong and healthy, are
sent, together with their nurses, to the
villages to which the latter belong.
Here the nurses receive about 4a. 6d.
a month for the maintenance of their
charges, under the supervision of tho
doctor of the district. The coarse fare
of the peasantry, however, and the
rigour of the climate, cause about 50
per cent, of the children to die before
the age of one year, and about a quarter
only of those brought to the hospital
arrive at maturity.
It may be argued that such institu-
tions tend to recognise and increase
immorahty, and statistics may be ad-
duced to show, that, while the number
of illegitimate births in the whole Bus-
sian empire is little over 4 per cent.,
at Moscow and St. Petersburg, where
Foundling Horoitals exist, the propor-
tion is in the former town 37f , and in
the latter 20^ per cent., and that there
are about 10 per cent, more of illegiti-
mate births at Moscow than at Paris.
On the other hand, it may be questioned
whether the proportion of legitimate or
illegitimate registered births is a just
criterion of morality. The proportion
of the latter to the former is always
greater in the large and thickly popu-
206
Route 6. — Moscow : Museum.
Sect. I.
lated towns than in the oountiy ; and
as to the relative projwrtion between
Moscow and Paris, this will only be
really known when the science of sta-
tistics shall have learut to give the
numbers of undiscovered cases of in-
fanticide iind other hardly less infa-
mous crimes. Moreover, a great pro-
portion of the children brought to the
institution are not illegitimate, and are
only left there by the parents from
poverty or if in service.
On the other hand, the increase of
population effected by the Foundling
Hospitals of Moscow and St Peters-
burg is not so great as might at first
sight be supposed ; for Independent of
the great mortality among the children
after they have left the institution —
mortality owing, in a great degree, to
the severe climate, and to the universal
custom among the Bussian peasantry
of leaving young infants alone for
several hours at a time, with the
" Soska," or kind of milk poultice, at
their mouths, to nourish or to choke
them, — ^it must not be forgotten that
but too many of these illegitimate chil-
dren are saved at the expense of the
lawful offspring of their nurses, left at
a critical age to be brought up by
hand in the villages.
The boys when they grow up are not
amenable to military service, and are
even exempt from certain taxes. The
great mass of them become agricultural
labourers. About 150 are annually
brought up at the Industrial School at
Moscow, where they are taught various
trades, and 250 at the School of Sur-
gery as hospital dressers. Some of the
girls are taken back to the hospital,
where they are trained as nurses, and
even as midwives, for which a special
school is attached. In case a girl
marries in her village before attaining
her majority, she is provided by the
institution with a trousseau.
The Nicholas Institute, which will
be shown the visitor, is only for the
female orphans of indigent servants of
the crown; another for boys existing
elsewhere. About 800 girls receive
here a liberal education, intended to
•^'•epare them for tuition. On leaving
establishment they are provided
with an outfit, and enjoy small salaries,
proportionate to the certificates which
they have gained on their examination
— salaries which they receive during
the 6 years which they are boimd to
devote to the Crown as governesses
and school teachers in the interior of
the empire.
Although this school is attached to
the Foundling Hospital* no foundlings
are admitted. 50 girls are brought up
in it at their own expense.
The register of the Foundling Hospi-
tal is an object of interest to those who
understand the Kussian language. It
contains an entry in 1812 of 2 boys
sent there by order of the Emperor
Napoleon. Admission on application
to the governor. The porter will ex-
pect a fee.
Public Museum (PuUichny Mus^e,
domPcuJikom). — The Humiaiitsoff Mu-
seum, bequeathed to the public in 1828
by Count Rumiantsoff, Clianoellor of
the Empire, was removed in 1861 from
St. Petersburg to Moscow, where it
now forms the nucleus of a collection
that aspires to rival that of the British
Museum. It occupies a splendid man-
sion, once the residence of the Pasli-
kof family, and which, from its impos-
ing site, stands out prominently irom
amidst the other colossal and pic-
turesque buildings of Moscow. The
original Bumiantsoff Museum has been
considerably augmented by donations
and by other collections, such as that
of Christian antiquities and early Greek
and Slavonic MSS., lent by Mr. P.
Sevastianof, a patriotic archieologist.
The Library, increased by imperial
gifts and by purchases, now possesses
160,000 volumes. It is particularly
rich in ancient Slavonic M8S., which
are arranged chronologically in glass
cases ; 45 of them are on parcluuent.
One of the moat ancient Slavonian
MSS. of the Gospels, written *in 1164,
is to be found here. No less than three
MSS. on parchment or paper belong
to the 12tii century, ten to the 13th,
twenty to the 14th, and forty-three to
the 15th. Tliere^ jBirealso very many
well-executed dopiest w ancient MSS.,
Eussia.
Boute 6. — Moscow : Museum.
207
and 42 copies of the Evangelists, rang-
ing between the 12th and 16th cen-
turies. The library is rich in historical
and ecclesiastical MSS. and in speci-
mens of early printing in the Bnssian
characters. The room in which the
bust of Nicholas I. is placed contains
the library of his consort in hand-
somely bound volumes. The private
papers and correspondence of the great
Chancellor are deposited here. <S)unt
Bumiantsoff took great pains in collect-
ing works, originals as well as copies,
having reference to the relations be-
tween Russia and other countries. A
volume entitled *CJopies of Letters
written and received by Sir Charles
Comwaleys, Knight, during his Em-
bassie in Spain, with other his Obser-
vations and Negociations, 1606,' may
interest the English traveller. The
library is enriched by the valuable col-
lection of Mr. Norof, whose Aldine and
Elziverian editions are worthy of in-
spection, as well as the works of Gior-
dxao Bruno, and the *Atlantica* by
Budbeck, the most complete copy next
to those of Upsala and Stockholm. In
the centre room of this library is a
marble allegorical statue of Peace, by
Canova, on a pedestal of granite, in
commemoration of the Peace of Abo
(1743), of that of Kainardji (1774), and
of Freierichshamm (1809). On each
side of this statue are placed two
splendid vases, from the imperial
manufEictory, presented by the Em-
peror. Their value is 12,000 roubles.
There are also a statue and a bust in
marble of Count Bumiantsoff Zadunai-
ski. None of these are of any extraor-
dinary merit. The portrait of Chan-
cellor BumiantsofE; the founder of the
museum, is by Geo. Dawe.
The sculpture gallery has been sup-
plied with slabs from the Egyptian
and Assyrian Courts of the Brit^h Mu-
seum, and contains nothing original.
A room is devoted in this museum
to a collection of Masonic MSS. and
books. It contains the Archives of the
Lodges in Bussia, between the years
1816 and 1821, although many manu-
scripts are of an earlier date, Bussia
having been declared an independent
Masonic Province in 1781. Freema-
sonry was formally abolished in 1823,
but it nevertheless continued to exist
surreptitiously some time longer, as
proved by some of the documents pre-
served here, bearing the date of 1830.
In a corridor will be found masonic
decorations, &c. To the right of the
corridor is a numismatic collection.
The next door leads to the Dashkof
Ethnographical Museum. Proceeding
along the corridor, the visitor will find
on the rt. a room in which the various
objects collected by Kotzebue during
his voyage round the world have been
deposited. Continuing along the cor-
ridor a large hall will be reached,
where figures the size of life are placed
to represent the various races inhabit-
ing Bussia. In the centre are speci-
mens of the "Great Bussian" race,
next come the Little Bussians, and,
lastly, the Caucasian tribes. In the
next room are tents of the Kalmucks
and Kirghizes. To the rt., below, are
the domestic utensils, &c., of the vari-
ous races. A staircase leads to a hall
in which are arranged figures of the
Slavonian races not subject to Bussia,
while in the gallery above are excel-
lent photographs of all the Slavonian
races. These figures or dolls formed
the ** Ethnographical Exhibition," held
at Moscow in 1867, which has since
given rise to so much apprehension in
Austria.
An Exhibition of Christian Anti-
quitiea occupies four rooms in the
upper floor of the museum. It consists
principally of specimens of ecclesi-
astical art brought from Mount Athos,
and of casts and photographs of Byzan-
tine and early Bussian archsoological
objects. An miage in mosaic of the
Saviour, attributed to the 10th or 11th
century, a gold cross of Byzantine
enamel of the same period, and several
manuscripts and specimens of early
printing, are among the antiquities of
which Mr. Sevastianoff, the owner of
the collection, is chiefly proud.
The Mineralogical collection is not
very remar^ble, although a few speci-
mens are worthy of notie. Among
these are a mass of native copper from
the Boguslaf mines in Siberia, and vari-
208
Boute 6. — Moscow: Museum.
Sect. I.
0U8 crystallized and other flpecimens
of tlie same metal. A huge crystal of
smoky quartz from Ekaterinburg, may
also be noticed. Attention may b©
drawn to a fine beryl and some good
specimens of the rare chromate of lead
from Siberia, to the axinite from Dau-
phine, and to a fine specimen of crys-
tallized natiye sulphur from the extinct
locality of Conil in Spain.
In tiie Zoological Department will
be seen a small specimen of the mam-
moth, and numerous skulls of that
animal. In a glass case near the
window are pieces of the" integuments,
masses of hair, and a whitish substance
taken oat of the socket of the eye of
the huge beast, when found in Siberia.
Tits Picture Gallery owes its origin
to the gift, by the present Emperor, of
a large picture by IvanofE^ " Christ ap-
pearing to the People." Professor
Waagen selected a few pictures for this
museum characteristic of the several
schools of painting from amongst the
collection in the Hermitage, the value
of which'splendid gallery has not been
materially diminished by the abstrac-
tion. Ivanoff's picture, placed in the
last room, is very striking on account
of the relief of some of the figures,
especially that of the young man climb-
ing out of the water ; and the head of
the decrepit old man supported by a
youth, who is probably his son, is cer-
tainly admirable for expression. The
picture is painted in exaggerated cold
tones, but uie drawing shows evidence
of most careM study. There is a
considerable sameness in the faces, a
monotony probably produced by em-
ploying the same model, and altogether
the picture has certainly not the attrac-
tions of the more celebrated work of
this native artist, that of " Christ ap-
pearing to Mary Magdalen,** exhibited
in the Hermitage. Close to it is a
small picture (No. 201), "the Death
of Pelopidas," by Andrew Ivanoff,
father of the above painter.
Travellers may study the rise and pro-
gress of Russian painting in the gallery
of Senator Prianitchikoff, removed to
the museum in 1867. It contains 122
pictures, of which 12 are by Briilow.
The Flemish school is represented
by originals of Breughel (No. 6),
Bubens (Nos. 13 and 15, llie latter
being rather doubtful), Jordaens (No.
22, " Paul and Barnabas at Lystra "),
Van Dyck (No. 32, portrait of Lady
Wharton), Teniers (No. 40, "The
Temptation of St. Antony"). There
is also a Rembrandt (No. 75, " Decapi-
tation of John the Baptist ") ; but the
Italian artists only appear in copies
more or less ootemporaneous. No. 66
is a rather curious picture by Joseph
Platzer of the parable of **The man
without thte wedding garment.'* There
is also a fine figure of a monk, in the
first room, by Ludwig Knaus, the
Dusseldorf artist. Recently added:
*' Penitence," by Overbeck; and the
"Angels smiting the inhabitants of
Sodom vrith blindness,** by Wenig of
St. Petersburg— striking pictures. We
may also mention "Prince Mensohi-
koif in exile," by Ford, and "The
death of JosapbEit Kunsewicz," re-
cently canonized ; painted by Simmler,
1861.
The English portrait-painters are
represented by George Da we in a full-
length likeness of Pmice Madatof ; the
same artist painted the portrait of
Count Rumiantsoff, exhibited in one of
the halls of the museum. The portrait
of General Isakoff, founder of tiie
museum, painted by Dawe, ^^ like-
wise be seen in one of the rooms,
together with a beautiful vase with
medallions of the year 1812.
There is also a collection of En-
gravings and Photographs, most of
them being duplicates from the Her-
mitage. The Arundel Society has
contributed many of its publications.
Admission gratis on Tuesdays, Thurs-
days, Saturdays, and Sundays.
Galitgin Museum, — ^Prechistinka-Btr.
Open Mondays, Wednesdays, and
Fridays, 12 to 3. Foreigners will
obtain permission to inspect it at any
other time, on application to the
Director, who lives on the premises.
This museum was formed by Prince
Michael Galitsin, sometime Russian
minister at Madrid, and who died 1860.
Bossia.
Route 6. — Moicow : Biding School,
It consists of a library, picture gallery,
and a collection of curiosities.
The most remarkable books in the
library are two xylographic volumes,
entitled, 'The Sufferings of our Sa-
viour,' and *Ars Moriendi,' produced
shortly before the invention of printing.
Next to these is a second book, printed
soon after the introduction of print-
ing with moveable type:— *Gulielmi
Durandi Bationale divinorum officio-
rum, 1459,' and * Cicero de Officiis,
1465.' The first is edUio princeps.
According to the opinion of Brunet
one of the books in this library, viz.
the *Tractatus de Sumpcione,' &c.,
was printed by Gutenberg himself.
The visitor will also see here the first
printed papal buU, and other curiosities
of typographical art, as well as a fine
collection of Aldine and Elziverian
editions.
In the picture gqUery the most re-
markable painting is by Perugino
(No. 1), representing our Saviour on
the Gross surrounded by saints. The
other valuable pictures are: No. 10,
by Carlo Dolce, ** Tobit and the
Angels;" No. 21, by Cima di Cone-
gliano ; No. 33, by Francesco Francia
and others, representing the Italian
school. The remarkable pictures be-
longin&r to the Dutch and Flemish
8chool?iire : Van der Veyder (No, 45) ;
Van der Meylen (No. 58) ; Caspar
Netcher, Metun, &c. Three pictures
of the French school from the Orleans
gallenr are very fine specimens. There
are also many original paintings of
other schools, the total number being
above 200, among which are very few
copies. The whole of this almost
entirely original collection was made
by the Princes Galitsin.
The collection of curiosities is well
known to connoisseurs of all countries.
There is a small earthenware jug
(bibema) (No. 496) of Henri II.,
which is valued by amateurs at lOOOL
Only 37 articles of this ware are to
be found in the whole of Europe, a
few being in England. The other in-
teresting objects are : a chess-board of
the latter part of the 16th century.
Vases, once the property of Louis
XVL and Marie Antoinette; a large
209
collection of cameos, antiquities from
Pompeii, articles of Etruscan bronze ;
an old steel lock and key in the
shape of a temple, made in 1617 ; a
group of figures made of pearls and
gold enamelled, representing a Moor
mounted on a camel; vases of old
Chinese porcelain (Nos. 215, 502, 597) ;
plates that belonged to the Medici
(No. 498) ; a drinking cup with a like-
ness of Gustavus Adolphus on the lid,
and the story of Susannah round the
body of the cup.
Other Museume and Collections, — Be-
sides the Galitsin Museum the follow-
ing private collections are worth seeing.
Soldatenkofs in Miasnitsky - street ;
JBotkin's, in Pokrovka-street ; Zencker's
on Stretensk boulevard. These may
all be seen by permission of the pro-
prietors.
ClierikojTs Library, in Miasnitsky-
street, is now open to the public, and
may be visited at any time. It con-
tains a collection of all the books
written in foreign languages on Bus-
The Great Biding School (Manege). —
One of the most remarkable buildings
in Moscow is the celebrated Biding
School, supposed to be the largest
room in the world unsupported by
pillar or prop of any kind. Writers
differ as to its dimensions, but we
believe we are nearly accurate when
we place its length at 560 ft., breadth
158 ft., and height 42. The great
town-hall of Padua is only 240 ft.
long and 80 ft. broad; Westminster
Hall is 275 ft. by 75; and King's
College, Cambridge, 291 ft. by 45^ ;
but that is an area small indeed in
comparison, though great is the differ-
ence between the two roofe. The
ceiling of the Biding School is flat,
and Qie exterior of the roof very
slightly elevated. The interior is
adorned with numerous bas-reliefs of
men in armour and ancient trophies ;
and the stoves, which cannot be
210
Boute 6. — Moscow : University .
Sect. I.
fewer than 20, made of white ehin-
ing earthenware, and rising to the
ceiling, have a very good effect. There
are small windows at a considerable
height from the ground, but owing to
its enormous width the interior of the
building looks, even when the sun
shines, dull and sombre. Here, in the
most intense cold, when even the Bus-
sian soldier can scarce stand in his
sentry-box, the troops can perform
their exercises unobstructed oy the
severity of the weather; and the vast
enclosure gives ample room for two
regiments of cavalry to go through
all their various evolutions and man-
oeuvres.
The traveller will naturally be
anxious to examine the peculiar struc-
ture of the roof, and ascertain by what
unseen support its massive beams are
sustained ; and he was formerly allowed
to do so by ascending the winding
stairs in the comer of the Biding
School, when he soon found himself
amidst a forest of beams, stays, and
rafters, of all forms and dimensions;
but a special order for viewing it is
now required.
The University. — ^The University of
Moscow, the oldest in Bussia Proper,
was founded by the Empress Eliza-
beth, daughter of Peter the Great,
in 1755, and has ever since been a
favourite national seat of learning. It
has produced several statesmen, many
officers of distinction, and men of
letters, the most celebrated of whom is
the poet Jukowsky. The statutes of
all the Universities in Bussia were re-
modelled in 1863, after some riotous
proceedings on the part of the students
at St. Petersburg and Moscow, who
objected to the raising of the matricu-
lation fees. The University of Moscow
is composed of four faculties, — History,
Physics, Jurisprudence, and Medicine,
— and is a State institution, under the
authority of the Minister of Public
Instruction. There is also a chair for
theology at each University for students
of the Busso-Greek feith, and special
lectures for the German, French,
English, and Italian languages.
There are 75 professors and lecturers
attached to this University, which is
frequented by 1600 students. The
annual payment by students is only 50
rubles (7^ 10«.). A few are admitted
to the lectures in forma pauperis, and
a considerable number as stipendiaries
of charities, Grovemment schools, &c.
The State contributes about 62.0002.
annually towards the expense of this
University, the total expenditure being
about 68,0002. The several academical
degrees confer a corresponding rank or
tchin in the civil service. The Uni-
versitiefl are open to all youths abovo
17 years of age who shall have passed
a satisfactory examination in one of
the gymnasia or some other scholastic
institution under the supervision of the
Minister of Public Instruction, as well
as to those who shall have undergone
a certified course of tuition at home.
The terms of admission being thus
easy, a university education in Bussia
is no aristocratic distinction.
The Library contains 160,000 vol-
umes, and is more especially rich in
historical works. The scientific col-
lections are considerable in size and of
a practical character. The anatomical
cahinet of Loder, and the microscopic
preparations of Lieberkuhn, are worthy
of notice. There are also some extraor-
dinary specimens of human malforma-
tions kept in spirits of wine, a very
good collection of skeletons, and many
curiosities in the way of foreign sub-
stances extracted from the stomachs of
animals. A camel's stomach, extended
to its natural extent, with all its cells
and subdivisions so arranged as to
render visible every corner in which
the food was retained till perfectly
dissolved, and an instrument used by
Peter the Great in drawing teeth, are
likewise exhibited.
The Zoological Cabinet contains
78,688 specimens.
The University has a good working
mineral collection, not very remarkable
for its individual specimens. (10,800
in number).
An hospital is attached to the Uni-
versity, with lying-in wards ; also the
Hospital of St. Catherine, where 1400
patients are annually admitted.
Eussia.
BotUe 6. — Moscow : Suhareff Tower.
211
Suhareff Tower. — This conspicuous
and elegant object marks the old N.E.
boundary of the city. A regiment of
Streltsi, under the command of Col.
Suhareff, guarded this part of the town,
and kept a gate which then stood
there. When the Streltsi revolted
in 1682, Suhareff's regiment escorted
Peter and his mother and brother to
the Troitsa Monastery. Between the
years 1692 and 1695 Peter the Great
caused the old gate of his faithful
regiment to be replaced by the present
bmlding. In his enthusiasm for naval
matters, the great founder of the Eus-
sian navy caused the tower to be built
in the shape of a vessel, the tower
representing the mast, and the gal-
leries all round pretending to a re-
semblance with the quarter-deck of an
ancient flag-ship, while the eastern
and western exiiemities were to typify
the bow and stern. Peter the Great
is supposed to have held secret councils
of State in a chamber of this tower;
and tradition says it was the place of
meeting of a kind of Masonic lodge,
Btyled, "Neptune's Company," of which
Peter I. was the head. The people
believed that their great Tsar and his
companions practised the ** black arts "
within the Suhareff. Comedies were
performed there in 1771 by the first
troop of foreign actors that ever came
to Eussia. The boys of a Naval
School, instituted in this tower, were
taught to perform on the stage, and
were at one time sent to Si Petersburg
to drive piles into the marshes on the
banks of the Moika. On the protest,
however, of A dm. Apraxin, they were
relieved of that duty, and sent to study
in foreign parts. After having been
appropriated by Peter to a Naval
School, under the direction of a Scotch-
man of the name of Fergusson, and
later to one of the civil departments of
the Admiralty, the Suhareff Tower
has been used since 1829 as a reservoir
for supplying the whole of Moscow
with water brought in tubes from a
distance of 10 miles. The tower is 210
feet in height to the top of the vane.
Its style is a mixture of the Lombard
and Gothic.
Temple of the Saviour^—Thia impos-
ing structure, seen from every part of
the city, was commenced in 1812, and
is still in an unfinished state. It is to
commemorate the French invasion, and
when completed will certainly be a
worthy rival of St. Isaac's. The stone-
work of the interior, even in its pre-
sent state, is well worth seeing. A
considerable part of it is in " Labrador "
stone of very high polish. The fine
haut-relief figures with which the ex-
terior of the chapel is adorned were
commenced by Professor Lugauofsky,
since dead, and continued by Baron
Klodt and Professor Eamazanoff, like-
wise native sculptors. In the neigh-
bourhood of Moscow are very extensive
quarries of the sandstone of which the
ch. is built.
Drives and Excursions.
1. The Sparrow Sills and the Em-
press* 8 FtWa.— Amongst the various
drives which every stranger takes in
the environs of Moscow, that to the
Sparrow Hills is one of the most inte-
resting, both as affording a fine view
of the city, and as being the ground
where Napoleon obtained his first
glance of it.
To the rt. of the Sparrow Hills is
the Smolensk road, by wliich the
French entered Moscow.
The gardens belonging to the Ga-
litsin family are prettily situated on
the sloping banks of the Moskva,
which flows in gentle windings be-
neath them. Near here is the villa of
the late Empress, formerly the property
of Count Orloft', and presented by him
to her Imperial Majesty. Tliis villa, a
much more appropriate term for it than
palace, which it is sometimes called, is
very handsomely furnished, and com-
fort, in the English sense of the word,
is quite realised ; the Empress's bed-
room and boudoir are particulnrly
worthy of attention ; the walls are not
papered, but hung with white mnslin
lined with pink, and fluted with as
much care as a goffered collar. The
212
Boute 6. — Moscow : Simonoff Monastery,
Sect. I.
view from the balcony at the back of
the villa, looking towards the river, is
very pretty. The gardens and shrub-
beries are exceedingly well laid out,
and the collection of hot-house plants
very choice.
A ticket of admission is required to
see this villa, which must be procured
from the office of the palace. It should
be visited rather early in the afternoon,
so as to give the traveller time to have
a good view from the Sparrow Hills,
the proper hour for which is towards
sunset. The Kremlin faces these
hills, and as the traveller gazes on
it he will picture to himself what
must have been the feelings of the
French army when they caught the
first view of the golden minarets
and starry domes. After traversing
the dreary plains of Lithuania, and
fighting, with fearful loss, their way
up to this spot, the limit of their long
career, no wonder that those weary
legions, unable to suppress their joy,
shouted with one voice, ** Moscow."
2. Simonoff Monastery, — ^Standing on
the highest ground near Moscow, the
tall belfry of the Sunonoff affords a
finer and fuller view of the city than
even the tower of Ivan Veliki or the
Sparrow Hills. It is at least one hour's
drive from the centre of Moscow, but
should be visited at any sacrifice.
The Simonoff Monastery^ founded in
1370 by St. Sergius, was removed to
its present site about the year 1390. It
was anciently the most important mo-
nastery in Bussia, and as such was
enriched by princely and private gifts
of immense value. A great number of
villages once belonged to it, and, until
1764, as many as 12,000 male serfs. In
1612, notwithstanding the resistance
offered by the stout defenders of its
castellated walls, the Simonoff fell into
the hands of the Lithuanians and Poles,
who sacked it. During the plague
of 1771 it was made a Quarantine sta-
tion, and in 1788 it was suppressed as
a monastery, and converted into a mili-
tary hospital. In 1795, however, the
Simonoff was restored to its original
dedication, its prosperity being only
once more checked, in 1812, when
several of the buildings were burned
down. There are 6 churches within
the walls. The most ancient is the
Cathedral of the Assumption, a mas-
sive building in the Byzantine style,
founded about the year 1379, and con-
secrated 1405. An image in the ikon-
ostas or altar-screen is pointed out as
having been that with which St. Ser-
gius blessed Dimitry of the Don when
he set out to fight the Tartars. The
cupola was gilt in 1836. The wall,
2700 ft. in length, was built in the
earlier part of the 16th centy. The
towers are 85 to 126 ft. in height.
Tiiere is a subterranean passage &om
one of these to the pond in the vicinity,
much frequented by the believing sick.
There are many costly vestments to
be seen in the Sacristy, as well as a
gold cross, studded with precious
stones; the Gospels in a binding of
gold and jewels, presented in 1683 by
Mary, the daughter of Alexis; gold
vessels weighing 3 lbs.; and many
other ecclesiastical treasures. St. Jonah,
subsequently Metropolitan of all Rus-
sia, lived here as a monk in the 15th
centy.
But the great attraction of this mo-
nastery is the belfry, 330 ft. high,
erects between 1839 and 1844, at the
expense of a merchant of Moscow, who
gave the sum of 400,000 rubles (banoo),
in houses and shops, towards its oon-
struclion.
Under the guidance of the bell-
ringer, the traveller will ascend to the
very cupola, and look out of a small
window, which his guide will open.
Unfortunately the bell-ringer explains
the magnificent panorama in Russian,
but he can point out any locality that
may be mentioned.
The nearest white walls are those of
the Danilof Monastery, founded in
1272 by the canonized Prince Daniel
of Moscow, but rebuilt in the reign of
John the Terrible. There is nothing
to see in it except the silver shrine of
the founder.
Beyond the Danilof will be seen the
red walls of the Donskoi Monasteiy
{vide Description), and further still i^
Enssia.
Boute 6. — Moscow : NovospasJd Monastery,
213
the tall, golden-crowned belfry of the
Novo Devichi (see under). The Spar-
row Hills will be seen in the vicinity
of the Donskoi.
In the cemetery within the Simonoff
are buried many remarkable men, and
amongst them, xmder the refectory,
Field-Marshal Bruce, of Scottish origin.
Near the monastery is a small
Reformatory for youthful criminals,
founded in 1864 by a Society for the
Diffusion of Christian Knowledge. It
is the first establishment of the kind
in Kussia Proper. It holds 15 boys,
and is supported by private subscrip-
tion. Travellers are invited to inspect
this ** Ispravitelnyi Priyut," conducted
by Prof. Kapoustine,
3» Novospaski Monastery. — On the
road to the Simonoff, as well as in
returning to Moscow, the visitor wiU
pass a very large monastery, called the
Novospaski (New Passion), removed
to its present site in 1490. In it were
buried the principal members of the
ftomanoff family, before it became a
dynasty, and a palace within it, now
destroyed, was for some time occupied
by the Nun Martha, mother of the
first Romanoff sovereign, and who lies
buried under the floor of the cathe-
dral. There are 5 churches within its
-walls. The cathedral is profusely de-
corated with fresco-paintings, repre-
senting the genealogy of the sovereigns
of Russia from St. Olga to the Tsar
Alexis, and the descent of the kings
of Israel. On either side of the stair-
case leading up to the cathedral are
representations of the Greek philo-
sophers Solon, Plato, Ptolemy, Plu-
tarch, &c. Behind the altar-screen
are portraits of the ten patriarchs of
Hussia. AU these frescoes, with the
exception of the representation of
the Last Judgment on the W. wall
of the cathedral, were restored in
1837. The male visitor should go
behind the altar-screen, and see near
the right wing of the Ikonostas the
remarkable frescoes of the 17th centy.,
depicting the founders of the ch., the
Tsars Michc^l and Alei^s, Many of
the ancient Boyar families of Russia
are buried here, but the grave of most
interest to the foreign visitor is that
which will be found in the court of the
monastery, to the rt. on entering
within its walls. The inscription on
the tomb records the death of the
Nun Dosythea, who was no other than
the Princess Tarakanova, daughter
of the Empress Elizabeth and of
her chancellor Razumo&ky. It will
be remembered that this princess
was personated by an impostor, who
was perfidiously seized by Gregory
Orloff at Naples, and conveyed in a
Russian ship to St. Petersburg, where
she died, in the fortress, although not
by drowning during an inundation, as
assumed by the painter of a well-
known picture exhibited at Paris in
1867.
The walls of this monastery have
frequently repelled the enemies of
Moscow. They were originally built
of wood in 1571, in expectation of the
inroad of Khan Divlet- Ghirei. In
1591, when the Ehan invaded Mosco-
via, this monastery, like the Simonoff
and the Daniloff, was turned into a
fortress. It was again put into a de-
fensive condition in 1613 and 1618,
when the Poles occupied the city. The
present walls of stone were built be-
tween 1640 and 1642, at the expense
of the Tsar Michael and his mother,
Martha. They have a circumference
of about 430' Eng. fins., and their
height is about 4 fms.
The helfry, which rises 235 ft., is a
very handsome object. Commenced
in 1759, it was completed in 1785.
In the neighbourhood of this mo-
nastery the visitor will be struck by
the remains of a gate in the Russo-
Byzantine style of architecture. It is
said to have belonged to an archiepis-
copal palace which once stood there.
The old gate now leads to the Kru-
titski barracks. The ch. next to it is
^he parish ch. of the Assumption, ** Na
KrutiUakh" the name of the locality.
tkyim
4. Novo-DeviM 0<mtJe»i, opposite
the Sparrow Hills, between the Mosk-
214
Boute 6. — Moscow : JDonskoi Monastery,
Sect. I.
ya and the Deviche-pole, or Maideus'
Field, where the populace is enter-
tained at the coronation of emperors.
It was founded in 1524 by Yassili
Ivanovitch, Grand Duke of Moscow,
in commemoration of the capture of
Smolensk, which was celebrated for
its miraculous image of the Virgin,
once deposited at Moscow, but restored
to Lithuania in 1456. A copy of that
image was transferred from the Cathe-
dral of the Assumption to this convent
on its foundation, and is now shown in
the principal ch. Richly endowed, it
became a refuge for Tsarinas who re-
nounced the world. Boris Godunof
and his sister Irene, widow of the Tsar
Theodore, the last of the Buriks, re-
tired here; but the patriarch, accom-
panied by the clergy and people, came
to entreat Boris, in 1598, to assume the
reins of power, which had been in the
hands of a Council for 6 weeks, and
took him hence in state to the palace
of the Kremlin : 12 years later the
Novo-Devichi was the scene of san-
guinary conflicts with the Poles, and
it was at last burnt down and de-
stroyed. It was, however, restored by
the Tsar Michael. Sophia, the ambi-
tious sister of Peter the Great, was
confined here. Having incited the
Streltsi to revolt against her brother
during his absence abroad, she was
forced to take the veil under the name
of Susannah, and died in this convent
under the strictest surveillance in 1704.
She lies buried in the ch., together
with several other princesses. The
Foundling Hospital established here
by Peter I., in 1725, when the number
of children amounted to 250, was abo-
lished on the construction of the great
Foundling Hospital. The convent
suffered but little from the approach of
the French in 1812, the King of Naples
having ordered that Divine service
should be continued as usual ; but on
the retreat of Napoleon, the belfry and
other buildings were only saved from
being blown into the air by the intre-
pidity of Sarah and a few other nuns,
who bravely extinguished the matches
that were to have fired a train of gun-
powder. There are 6 churches within
the convent.
5. Don$hoi Monastery. — This build-
ing is also a considerable way out of
town, beyond the Kaluga Gate. It
was founded in 1592, by the Tsar
Theodore, in gratitude for a victory
over Kazy Girey, Khan of the Crimea,
obtained on this very spot by the mira-
culous interpjosition of the Virgin
IMary, whose image was presented to
the monastery by the Cossacks of the
Don, whence its name. A church pro-
cession still celebrates the defeat of the
Tartars on the 19th (31st) Aug. It
was once endowed with 7000 serfs, and
6 inferior monasteries were subject to
it. The principal ch., of red brick,
was built in 1684 by Catherine, sister
of Peter the Great. The frescoes on
the walls were painted in 1785 by an
Italian. The image of the Virgin of
the Don will be seen in the altar-screen,
ornamented with precious stones. The
altar below was erected at the expense
of the Tsars of Georgia. The 2nd ch.,
dedicated to the same Virgin, was
built in 1592, and its chapels in 1659 ;
2 of the other chs. were constructed in
1714, the 5th is still more modern. The
walls and towers were finished in 1692,
having been commenced by the sister
of Peter the Great. The cemetery is
an object of great interest, being the
last resting-place of many celebrated
men and &milies. The tomb of Count
Woronzoff, many years ambassador in
England, bears the only inscription
legible to the Western traveller, who
should not fail to drive here in the cool
of the evening, and stroll or sit under
the trees in the churchyard, one of the
favourite resorts of the Moscovites.
6. Preobrajenskoyd' Kladbigtck^, or
TransfigurcUion Cemetery, — Travellers
studying the Bussian Church should
endeavour to see some of the places of
worship of the Dissenters. The sect
of Bespopovstchina, or those who do
not recognise any priesthood or sacra-
ments, may be seen at the above ceme-
tery, so called from its having been a
burying-ground and quarantine-sta-
tion during the plague of 1771, but in
reality an ecclesiastical establishmenji
EuBsia.
BotUe 6. — Moscow : Gardens.
215
and woiMioxise, tinder the superyision
of the Philanttiropical Society. The
principal chapel was converted into an
orthodox ch. in 1852, when permission
was granted to perform Divine service
in it according to the ritual used prior
to tlie innovations of Nicon. It may
be entered freely. The sect of Bespo-
povstohina is one of the most numerous
of the subdivisions of Bussian dissent,
and is remarkable as being strongly
opposed to the civil power, which they
only profess to recognise under compul-
sion. Even the Emperor is styled by
them " the Antichrist," and no prayers
are offered up for the reigniijg house
iu their churches. The singing will
be found very peculiar, and especially
that of the women, who perform Divine
service in a chapel apart firom the
men.
On the entry of the French into*
Moscow the Bespopovstchina welcomed
them with a pie filled with ducats
and with a white bull. Napoleon gave
them a pass of safe-conduct and a
guard of soldiers. The services of the
** Popovstehina,*' or sect who have a
priesthood, and who only adhere to the
old form of worship, may be seen at
the " Bogojskoye Kladbistche."
7. Petrofski Park and Palace,— Jf
the traveller be in Moscow during
summer, he should drive through
the Petrofeki Park, beybnd the Tver
Gate. The palace was commenced in
1775, and finished in the reign of Paul.
The Emperor occasionally visite it,
and reviews are held in the field oppo-
site. There is also a race-course in the
vicinity for trotting-matches. ' Napoleon
retired to this palace after the Kremlin
became tmtenable.
Saa^s Garden, within this park, is a
favourite resort on summer evening
when a band plays, and a short dis-
tance out of the park is Peirofiko^-
Bazumomko€, a very pretty garden,
open to the public.
the style of Bussian vehicles and the
manner of holiday-making. Sunday is
a fevourite day for picnics ; but the
1st (13th) May is more especially the
day of gathering.
9. Zoological Gardens.— The Impe-
rial Acclimatisation Society of Bussia
founded this garden on some land
granted by H. I. M., and embracing
about 30 acres, very prettily laid out.
The margins of 2 large ponds are
planted with the willow, the birch, and
the fir. In summer the greater part of
the animals are out in the open air,
but] in winter they are comfortably
housed in buildings. The bisons from
the province of Grodno and some
species of antelope are among the most
remarkable animals in the collection,
which comprises the usual specimens
of a menagerie. A band enlivens the
scene, which will be found crowded
with Moscow d'l^gants. In winter ice-
hills and skating attract many visitors
to these gardens. Open daily from 11
A.M. to dusk ; admission 20 copecks.
8. Sokolniki, the People's Park.—
Travellers should drive there to see
10. The Hermitage Gardens. — A
place of amusement every night during
summer. The grounds are most taste-
fully laid out. In addition to many
other attractions, the gipsies sing here
their wild melodies, frequently accom-
panied by dances. From time imme-
morial the female gipsies of Moscow
have been much addicted to the voctil
art, and bands of them have sung for
pay in the halls of the nobility, or upon
the boardsof the theatre. Some first-rate
singers have been produced amongst
them, whose merits have been acknow-
ledged by the most fastidious foreign
critics. It must not of course, be sup-
posed that the generality of these gipsies
are exquisite vocaliste: the majority
follow the occupation, but are very bad
singers ; many of them obtain a liveli-
ho<^ by singing and dancing at taverns
and on the race-course; at the fairs
of Nijni and Smolensk they also muster
in great strength. Their songs are in
216
Route 6. — Moscow : Promenades ; Theatres. Sect. I.
Bussiati and in their own dialect. In the
provincial towns they follow the pro-
fession for which they are so admirably
fitted by education, borse-dealing and
hocussing. Their personal attractions
are sometimes considerable; and on
great occasions they are arrayed in
splendid dresses, and sparkle with
jewels.
Ladies may visit these gardens.
There are, moreover, several guingv^eUes
in the neighbourhood of Moscow, where
the male traveller may study "life."
Marina -Rostcha, frequented by the
native merchants, is one of these.
11. Promenades. — The middle dasses
walk in the gardens of the Kremlin in
the fine spring evenings. At the foot
of the wall a number of artificial hills
have been raised, where, on holidays,
bands are placed. These hUls are
hollowed out beneath and supported
by pillars, and the benches with which
they are provided aflford cool resting-
places for the weaiy.
The Tver Boulevards, surrounding
the Beloi Gk)rod, are pleasant and fa-
shionable, though less agreeable than
the Alexander Garden. The Boule-
vards are broad walks laid out with
trees, shrubs, and parterres, far more
rural and pleasing than the formal lime
avenues of Berlin. During the Easter
and Carnival weeks they are greatly
frequented by the citizens in their
sledges, and the niunerous booths give
them all the appearance of a fair.
The traveller should on no account
leave Moscow without seeing the Krem-
lin by moonlight. The Flower Market
is a pleasant louuge in sammer.
THEATRES, CLUBS, ETC.
Theatres. — Moscow possesses two
theatres almost adjoining each other,
and facing the walls of the Kitai-Gorod.
The "Bolshoi" Theatre is the largest
">f the two. The inside of the house,
^hich is most elegantly fitted up, will
)ld about 1500 persons. It was de-
stroyed by fire in 1852, and reopened
in 1856. The receipts are about dOOl.
a night Two companies perform here
— ^the Russian Opera, and the Ballet.*
The Russian Opera and Ballet 3 times
a week, between 1st (13th) May and 1st
(13th) September, and almost daily at
other seasons. Stalls for Ballet and
Russian Opera 1 to 3 r. ; boxes 5 to
10 r.
The lesser theatre, for Russian drama
and high comedy, is open all the year
round. It will hold 500, and its re-
ceipts are about lOOZ. when fall. If
the traveller have time, he may find it
instructive to attend a Russian drama
or comedy, for, although he may not ■
understand the dialogue, he may study
the manners and customs of the coimtiy
as depicted on the stage. The plays
of Gogol and Ostrofski are particularly
worth seeing.
There are also theatrical representa-
tions during summer in the Petrofiski
Park. The first theatre in Moscow was
built in 1780 by an Englishman of the
name of Maddox.
Hinnd*s Circus is in Wosdwijenka-«t.
Boxes 5 to 6 rs. ; Stalls, 1 r. 50 c.
Ciuhs. — The principal club at Mos-
cow, as at St. Petersburg, is called the
" English Club." It waa established
by an English merchant in the reign of
Catherine II., and has flourished ever
since, with the exception of a short
period of suspension during the reign of
the Emp. Paul. Travellers are easily
admitted on application to a member.
All the newspapers may be seen there,
and it is a place where the a£y rs of
the nation are discussed every evening
over a cigar and a cup of tea.
The Merchants* Club is well sup-
ported, and is still easier of access. The
papers may likewise be read there.
The Post Office is a large building
on the road to the St Petersburg Rly.
Stat. Letters are distributed at about
3 P.M., and must be posted overnight at
the hotels, or at the station before the
departure of the train at noon.
English ChapeL — There is Divine
* The Italian Opera has been disoontmned,
owing to the absence of ftinds, but the traveller
should inquire whether it has not been again
opened.
Bussia.
Boute 7. — Moscow to Troitsa.
217
Senice every Sunday, at 11 a.m., at
tiie British chapel in Ghemishefski
Pereulok. Established 1825. The
English residents at Moscow and the
neighbourhood are more than 500 in
number.
Boman Catholic Chapels, — There
are 2 Boman Catholic chapels at Mos-
cow; —
1. German chapel, dedicated to St.
Peter and St. Paul, in Little Lubianka-
street. Mass at 8, 9, and 10 o'clock
on week-days, and on Sundays at 8, 9,
10, and 11 o'clock ; vespers at 5 p.m.
2. French chapel, dedicated to St.
Louis ; entrance either firom Great or
Little Lubianka-street. Mass at 9
and 10 o'clock on week-days, and at
10 and 11 AM. on Sundays ; vespers at
5 p.m.
Britiih Consulate. — There is a Bri-
tish Consul at Moscow. His address
will easily be ascertained.
ROUTE 7.
MOSCOW TO TBOrrSA MONASTERY
(TBOFEHKAYA-eO&BGIEVA LAVBA).
By rail in 2 h. 20 m., distance 40 m. ;
iare 2 rs. each way ; 8 trains a day.
(This line is being extended to Yaro-
slaf.)
The facility with which this histo-
rical monastery can now be visited leaves
the traveller no excuse for neglecting a
pilgrimage to the sbrinc of St. Sergius,
its founder and patron. This is the
Canterbury of Bussia, and a day may
well be devoted to it. St Sergius, the
son of a boyar of Bostof , at the head of
twelve disciples, established a monas-
tery on this spot about the year 1342.
His piety, and the honour conferred on
him by tiie Patriarch of Constantinople,
soon rendered him and his brotherhood
famous. The princes of Moscow sought
his counsel, and the oft-mentioned
Dimitry of the Don was blessed by
him before he set out for the battle of
Eulikova. Two monks from this mo-
nastery, Osliabia and Peresvet, fought
by the side of the victorious prince,
und one of them fell dead, together with
his Tartar adversary, in single combat.
The intervention of St. Sergius on this
memorable occasion was rewarded by
large grants of lands, and thenceforth
the monastery grew rich and powerful ;
its abbot, however, the holy Sergius,
remaining, as before, simple, self-deny-
ing, and laborious, and cutting wood
and fetching water to the last. His
right to canonization was still farther
established by the visitation (recorded
in the annals of the Busso- Greek
Church) of the Holy Virgin, who ap-
peared in his cell, accompanied by
the apostles Peter and John, about
the year 1388. He died in 1392. The
Tartar hordes of Ehan Edigei laid
waste this holy habitation in 1408, and
it was only re-established, together
with the present Cathedral of the
Trinity, in 1423. Thirty monasteries
were subsequently attached to it, and
much land, until, in 1764, St Sergius
was the possessor as well as the patron
of more than 106,000 male serfs. The
most prominent portion of the history
of the monastery is the siege, by 30,000
Poles, under Sapieha and Lisofski, in
1608, which was only raised, after six-
teen months, on the approach of a large
Bussian force. Later again, after the
election of Michael Eomanoff, Ladislaus
of Poland, styling himself Tsar of Mos-
oovy, besieged the Troitsa Monastery
once more, but he was repulsed by the
broUierhooid. When the Poles were in
possession of Moscow, the monks of St
Sergius rendered considerable assist-
ance to their countrymen in the shape
218
Boute 7. — Troitsa.
Sect. I.
of supplies in bread and money. The
most interesting fact, however, in the
records of the Troitsa Monastery is,
that it was the place of refuge on two
occasions of Peter the Great and his
brother John, when they fled from the
insurgent Streltsi. Since then the re-
pose of the monks has not been dis-
turbed by political events. The French ,
in 1812, went half-way towards the
monastery, but returned without the
expected booty.
The plague and the cholera have
never ventured within the holy walls,
which were foimded in 1513 and
finished in 1547. They extend 4500
feet, and are from 30 to 50 feet high,
with a thickness of 20 feet. They
were put in order by Peter the Great,
but their present appearance is due to
a later period. Eight towers form the
angles ; one of them, of Gothic archi-
tecture, is surmounted by an obelisk,
terminating in a duck carved in stone,
to commemorate the fact of Peter the
Great having practised duck-shooting
on a neighbouring pond.
There are 10 churches within the
monastery. The most ancient is the
Cathedral of the Trinity. The shrine
of St. Sergius stands within it, weigh-
ing 936 lbs. of pure silver. The relics
of the saint are exposed to view. In
the altar-screen, in a glass case, will be
seen the staflF and ottier ecclesiastical
appurtenances of the patron. Two
pictures of the saint, painted on portions
of his coffin, are suspended on the walls.
That near the shrine was carried into
battle by the Tsar Alexis and by Peter
the Great, and the Emperor Alexander I.
was blessed with it in 1812. On a
silver plate at the back of the image
are recorded the several military occa-
sions at which it assisted. The inte-
rior of the cathedral is replete with
massive silver ornaments, and in the
archbishop's stall is a representation of
the Last Supper, of which the figures
are of solid gold, with the exception of
Judas, who is of brass. All the images
are adorned with precious stones. The
small chapel alongside was added in
1552, rebuilt in 1623, and again in
1779 and 1840. Next to this is a small
chapel, erected over the supposed site
of the cell in which the Holy Virgin
appeared to St. Sergius. The large
church, with 5 cupolas, was consecrated
in 1585, and is called the Assumption
of the Virgin. The frescoes were
painted in 1681. One of its altars was
consecrated in 1609, during the roar
of the Polish artillery, and devoted to
prayer for deliverance from the scurvy,
of which disease 3000 of the inmates
of the monasteiy had already perislied.
The large two-headed eagle in wood
commemorates the concealment of Peter
the Great under the altar during the
insurrection of the Streltsi.
Ofi'the S.W. angle of the church, in a
chapel, is a well dug by St. Sergius, and
discovered in 1644, at a time when the
monastery was in great need of fresli
water. Between the Assumption and
the belfry stands a monument erected
in 1792, on which the principal events
in tlie history of the monastery are re-
corded. The fourth church, "The De-
scent of the Holy Ghost," was founded,
after the capture of Kazan, by the Tsar
Ivan Vassilevitch in person. The tomb
of Maximus, a learned Greek, stands
in a small chapel close by. The next
church in'importance is that of "Ser-
gius Radonejski/' with an immense
refectory and a gallery all round, built
in 1692. The iron roof, added in 174G,
after a fire, is of a very peculiar me-
chanical construction. Over the church
is a depository of nearly 4000 old books
and MSS., amongst the most remarkable
of which is a copy of the Evangelists
on parchment, attributed to the early
part of the 13th cent.
The helfry near the Church of the
Assumption was designed by Rastrelli,
and finished in 1769. It is remarkable
for its height and architecture, and
rises 290 ft. from the ground. The bell
in the second tier weighs nearly 65
tons. Of the many other buildings
within the walls of the monastery,
we may mention the Palace, built by
Peter 1., now occupied by the Eccle-
siastical Academy, which alone, as the
principal seat of priestly instruction, is
well worthy of a visit. The learned and
obliging rector willingly converses with
visitors in one of the dead languages.
Another church has been added to
Bussia.
Boute 7. — Troitsa.
219
the many saered edifices already con-
tained within the ■walls of the Troitsa
Mon. It was dedicated Aug. 5, 1867,
to " Philaret the Benefactor " on the
occasion of the 50th anniversary of the
Episcopate of the Metropolitan Pliila-
ret, who has since been buried within
it. The venerable prelate died 19 Nov.
1867, O.S.
The Sacristy of the Monastery occu-
pies four rooms in a detached building,
and is the object of paramount curiosity
to most travellers. Its principal con-
tents must be specified and preluded by
a few observations on the art treasures
of Eussia.
It would be futile to expect the
monastic libraries and treasures of
Bussia to be rich in antiquities of the
kind that may be foimd in the more
southern parts of Europe. Works of art
of even mediaeval date are exotic in
Bussia if they be works of art at all.
In other countries — ^in Italy, in France,
Spain, England, even in Germany, and
everywhere in the Levant — the his-
torian and the antiquary tread on
ground more or less classic. The soil
beneath their feet is at a greater or less
depth Boman. That of "Bussia is Scla-
vonic with alternating strata of Tartar
dominion. Her only link with the
classical associations of Byzantium and
Borne is that of the marriage of Ivan
Vassilevitch of Moscovy with the niece
of the lastPalseologus emperor, — a link,
indeed, and the last, in the long chain
of Byzantine records, but from which
depends whatever of inheritance Bussia
may claim in the nominal empire of
the East. Her Church was of earlier
origin, but the Christianity of the age
of St. Vladimir has bequeathed to a
later period little indeed of its material
productions in the form of manuscripts
or ornaments. One of the oldest — if the
date assigned to it be true— is.thevolume
in the Troitsa Monastery, with the as-
serted date of the twelfth century. It
is stated to be a copy of the Scriptures,
brought from Mount Athos.
As might be expected, however, the
greater part of the treasures of this
placeof pilgrimage belong to datesmuch
later than that claimed for this MS.
jBiwsia.— 1868.
Such is the resplendent copy of the
Gospels given by the Tsai* Michael in
1632, the covers of which are beau-
tifully ornamented with floral and
arabesque patterns in enamel-work. A
large cross, with rubies of fine colour,
is emblazoned on them, in contrast
with emeralds and sapphires of great
size and beauty. There is also a mitre
that belonged to the Archimandrite
Warlaam, a gift from the Empress Anne,
and conspicuous for the fine spinel
rubies and large pearls with which it
is adorned.
A printed volume of the Church ser-
vice adorned with illuminations and
a minute copy written in golden letters
on Persian vellum of the thinnest and
most delicate texture, hardly thicker
than goldbeater's skin, are well worthy
of notice.
The rich robes worn by the priest-
hood in the gorgeous ceremonial of the
Bussian Church furnish excellent ob-
jects on which wealth may be accumu-
lated in a form naturally precious in
the eyes of the dwellers in a monastery.
The jewelled robes preserved in this
far-fSamed fortress-shrine are hardly if
at all inferior in costliness to those
contained in the cathedrals within the
precinct of the Moscow Kremlin. Im-
perial personages have vied with each
other in the ric4iness of their gifts, and
even the pearl headdress that adorned
the brows of Catherine II. at her coro-
nation finds a home here as an orna-
ment on a priestly vestment. But the
interest attaching to these, as also to
the enormously rich crosses and other
pajraphemalia of the Church service at
the Troitsa, lies rather in their wealth
of jewellery, and in the high personages
whose gifts they were, than in the
beauty of the art displayed in them
or in the antiquity of which they may
boast.
Among the more exceptional of such
objects, however, is a casket, richly
adorned with cloisonn^e enamel-work,
perhaps of Venetian manufacture;
while of the diamonds in a crown
presented by the Empress Elizabeth
some 3 or 4 might worthily adorn an
imperial diadenii'-^^A lefucifix, with a
220
Boute 8. — Moscow to Nijni Novgorod,
Sect. I.
Siberian aquamarine of large size and
fine colour, waB also an imperial pre-
sent in 1797 ; and two singular objects
are shown as natural productions in
the form of representations, the one of a
natural cross, in a sort of jasper or horn-
stone, formed by two white veins cross-
ing one another in the brown material
of the stone: the other, an agate,
adorned by half a dozen fine garnets.
In the material of the agate a pattern
is seen, pretty accurately representing
a monk in adoration before a crucifix.
It is produced in part, no doubt, by
the pattern naturally assumed by the
coloured portion of the stone, which
has suggested to an ingenious hand to
help the illusion by a little artifice, the
concealment of which is considerably
aided by the dilBScuhy of closely in-
specting the stone. It may possibly
prove to consist of two slabs cemented
together.
The sapphires forming a cross on
an altar-cloth of the date of 1795 are
marvellously beautiful ; nor should
notice be omitted of an altar-cloth of
the date of Boris Godunoff, adorned
with an embroidery of magnificent
pearls, and with many sapphires and
emeralds en ccibochon disposed in orderly
arrangement among them and equally
lavish in their costliness. Mmgled
with all this magnificence will be seen
the wooden vessels and coarse woollen
robes of the founder, more highly es-
teemed by the pilgrims than the rich
vestments of his successors.
The shells exhibited as relics of the
Polish siege will, on inspection, prove
to bear the Napoleonic cipher.
Travellers should inspect the studios
of painting and photography within
the Monastery. Beautiful specimens
of ecclesiastical painting may be pur-
chased there at a very moderate price.
At about li m. from the Monastery
is the hermitage or "skit" of Geth-
semane, founded, in 1845, by Philaret,
Metropolitan of Moscow. There are
carriages in attendance at the rly. stat.
to take the traveller to this prettily-
situated retreat. The ch. is remark-
able on account of the simplicity of
its interior. The vessels used in the
services are of wood, and the altar
itself, after an ancient model, is of oak.
Women are not admitted except on the
16th (28th) and 17th (29th) August,
the feast-days of the Church, which
is dedicated to the ascent of the Holy
Virgin into heaven. There are some
catacombs in the vicinity, through
which the traveller will pass with a
shudder when he hears that the cells
are inhabited by human beings, some
of whom are fulfilling vows of seclusion
from man and the light of day. There
are still larger catacombs, about 3 m.
farther, where each cell is surrounded
by a wooden wall, and where the
solitary recluse is effectually barred
out from all communication with the
world. There are some very curious
toys, spoons of wood, little crosses,
and other pilgrims* tokens, to be pur-
chased at the Troitsa Monastery, as
well as at the hermitage of Getnse-
mane. The refectory should be visited
during the hours of meals, when hos-
pitality wiU be warmly offered to the
stranger on a pilgrimage to St. Sergius.
There is a g(X)d Hotel opposite the
Monasteij. Excellent refreshments
may also be procured at the Railway
Station.
ROUTE 8.
MOSCOW TO NUNI KOVQOBOD, WiT«
BBANOH LINE TO SHUTA AND IVAN-
OVO, AND EXCUKSION UP THE OKA TO
MUBOM, ELATMA, AND EASIMOF.
To Nijni Novgorod by rail in 12
hrs. by express every night during the
fair, held between 27th July and 22nd
Route 8. — Vladimir.
221
September, new style. (N.B. — the best
time to visit Nijni Novgorod is at the
end of August, new style.) 1st class,
12 rs. 30 c. Ordinary train once a day.
Distance from Moscow 410 v. (273 m.).
Moscow time kept at stations.
40 m. Pavlofsk Stat., Buffet. A
small town on the Kliasma, 3500 In-
hab., 12 silk-weaving and 6 chintz
factories.
77 m. PetushM Stat. Buff.
118 m. Vladimir Stat. Buff: Chief
town of province of same name ; 15,000
Inhab. Stands high on the 1. bank of
the Kliasma. The small river Lybed
divides it into two parts. The ancient
quarter of the town is surrounded by
three walls, which form the Kremlin,
the Blitai-gorod, and the Beloi-gorod,
as at Moscow. Vladimir, founded,
according to some authorities, by
Vladimir Monomachus, in the 12th
centy., and according to others by
George Dolgorouky, was once the
capital of on important principality,
frequently ravaged by the Tartars.
There are 22 churches at Vladimir,
of which the most remarkable are —
1. Uspenski (Assumption) Cathe-
dral. Founded 1154 by Prince Andrew
Bogoliubski, and finished 1160, in a
style of great magnificence. It was,
however, destroyed by fire in 1184,
and restored in 1189 and 1193. Dur-
ing the invasion of Baty Khan in
1238, when the Tartars took Vladimir
by assault, the Princess of Vladimir,
her 3 sons and daughter and other
relations, the Bishop of Vladimir, the
clergy, Boyars and others, shut them-
selves up in the cathedral, but the
Tartars piled wood around it, and de-
stroyed by fire both the edifice and
those who had taken refuge within it.
Some years after this catastrophe the
cathedral was restored, and long re-
mained the first ch. in Russia. Even
after the seat of sovereignty had been
removed from Vladimir to Moscow (in
1328) the Grand Duke of Moscow con-
tinued to be crowned in the cathedral
until 1432. It was thoroughly re-
stored in 1774 and again in 1834.
Some of the pictures in the altar-screen
are ancient, that of the Holy Virgin
having been painted In 1299. The
relics of 3 canonized princes of Vladi-
mir repose in shrines of silver. A
great number of princes of Vladimir
are buried within. There is also a
monument to Count Robert Woronzoff,
who died 1783. The sacristy is full of
antiquities, such as the robes of the
old princes, and a copy of the * Evan-
gelist ' of 1541. A picture by Tonci,
representing the baptism of the Kie-
vites in the reign of Vladimir, will
likewise be shown.
2. Cathedral of Demetrius of Solun,
within the Kremlin. It was built
1194. The white sandstone which
forms its walls is curiously carved
with representations of animals, birds,
&c. Having been restored by order
of the Emperor Nicholas, it is one of
the best specimens extant of Russo-
Byzantine church architecture. One
of the finest monuments of civil archi-
tecture of the same period will be
found in the " Golden Gate " (Zolotya
Vorota), built in 1158 as a porta
triumphalis. The ancient ch. above it
was destroyed during the Tartar in-
vasion ; the present edifice is modern.
The old earthem walls of the town
may be partly traced. There are many
fine biiildings of modern date at
Vladimir, such as the Assembly House
of the Nobility, with a fine hall, and a
gymnasium with a good library. The
city is celebrated for its fruit, particu-
larly for its fine cherries. Many Veche
or Wittenagemotes were held here in
the earlier days of Russian history.
The province is one of the richest in
Russia for agricultural produce and
manufactures.
149 m. Shuisko-Ivanofsko Stat. Buff.
At Novki, between these two stats., a
branch line runs on to Shuya and
Ivanovo, two important centres of the
cotton industry. There is no hotel at
either of those places, but as travellers
will only go there on business, they
will easily find accommodation at the
houses of the Russian millowners, or
in those of the English master spinners
and weavers,
158 m. Kovrof Stat., small town on
rt bank of the Kliasma. Pop. 4000. ^
M 2 A
222
Boute 8. — Nijrd Novgorod.
Sect. I.
195 m. Viazniki Stat. Buff. Town
of 5000 Inhab. Trade in grain and
celebrated for linen manufactures.
225 m. Gorohovets Stat. Buff. Small
town on Kliasma, still in province of
Vladimir.
NuNi Novgorod Stat.
Hotels. — These are decidedly unin-
viting, and the traveller is recom-
mended to go through the fair sys-
tematically, in order to return by the
express train, which leaves at night.
Everything may be seen in a day, and
nothing should detain him except the
desire of making some further pur-
chases, or of seeing something of
"life" k TAsiatique in a special
quarter of the town. The Hotel de
Bussie, or Lobasheff, near the Kremlin,
is considered the best. There is an
hotel kept by Nikita Egoroff at the
fair. Sobolef s hotel, also near the fair,
combines the character of a public
bath with that of a tolerable inn, fitted
with modem appliances for comfort.
But unless the traveller secure rooms
beforehand, it is almost impossible to
find shelter at any price during the
fair. The usual charge is 9«. to 12«. a
night for a room. In the case of ladies,
it is advisable to make the railway
station the head-quarters of the party
for the day, and to sally out from it in
various directions.
Smoking is prohibited at Nijni,
within the precincts of the fair, under
a fine of 25 rs., which will be inflicted
by the Cossacks and police on duty.
DrojMes may be hired for 98. to 12«.
for the day.
There is generally a good ballet at
the theatre. For other sights and
amusements it will be necessary to
consult an inhabitant of the town.
Nijni Novgorod, or Lower Novgorod,
as distinguished from the Great Nov-
gorod on the Volkhof. Pop. 40,000.
Chief town of province of same name,
and seat of the celebrated fair, situated
at the confluence of the Volga and
Oka rivers, in lat. 56o 30' N. It was
founded about 1222, and in 1237 was
occupied by the Tartars, who also
sacked it twice a century and a half
^ater. Nijni, as an independent princi-
pality, was absorbed by that of Moscow
in 1418. The town walls were built in
the early part of the 16th centy. by a
Venetian architect, but the fortress was
originally constructed in 1372. The re-
sidence of the governor of the province,
the courts of law, the barracks, arsenal,
and telegraph station, are within the
Kremlin, where there is also a monu-
ment to Minin and Pojarski, the two
patriots who liberated their country
from the Poles in 1612, Nijni being
the birthplace of the former.
Churches. — 1. Cathedral of the Trans-
figuration, •* Spaspreobrajeni^/*founded
in 1221. Minin lies buried there. 2.
Cathedral of the Archangel, originally
built in 1222, but reconstructed in
1620. A ch. in the lower part of the
town is sure to arrest the eye on
account of its eccentric colouring and
peculiar architecture. This is the
Church of the Nativity of the Holy
Virgin (Rojdestva), built by a Stroga-
noff in 1719. There are 51 churches
of the Bussian communion, and 8
belonging to various other denomina-
tions.
Before going to the fair the traveller
would do well to cross over to the
higher part of the town, and ascend,
through a narrow and very steep
ravine, to Minin's tower {Bashnia
Minina). From this great elevation
the most picturesque panorama pre-
sents itself on every side. The fair
spreads out like a vast town of shops,
on a triangular piece of ground be-
tween the Oka and the Volga, which
can be traced here for many miles,
with its steamers, like so many straws,
fioating swiftly down to, the distant
Caspian, 1600 miles beyond. The
forest of masts looks like a floating
town, and covers the surface of the
broad Oka almost completely, making
the bridge of boats look superfluous.
The quaint barges, comiog as they do
from the most distant parts of the
empire, must be studied from below,
where they will be seen discharging
or taking in their cargoes, with the
assistance of an army of ragged Tartar
labourers. In an opposite direction
the traveller will survey with interest
Boute 8. — Nijni Novgorod.
223
the low arched gates, the whitewashed
towers, and crenellated walls of the
ancient Ej-emlin, while the gay roofs
of the houses, appeariog &om amidst
the thick green foliage of numerous
gardens, afford both beauty and di-
Tersity to the landscape.
Descending from the tower, the tra-
veller should drive to the " Otkos " or
terrace, built by order of the Emperor
Nicholas, from which one of the most
singular and extensive yi6ws in Europe
wiU be obtained. As far as the eye
csku reach extends a vast alluvial plain,
rich with harvest, and occasionally
dotted with forests, while the Volga,
flowing down from Tver, looks like a
broad blue riband stretched over the
country from one extremity of the
horizon to the other. Much of the
plain below is inundated in spring by
the overflowing of the Volga, leaving
a fertile deposit, which considerably
enhances the value of the land.
The picturesque must now be left for
the practical. The realities of the fair,
including clouds of fine dust, unpaved
and' perhaps muddy streets, a heat
sometimes tropical, a male population of
unattractive appearance and unenticing
&agranoe, will be found in strong and
nnpleasant contrast to the scene just
viewed; and we can only indemnify
ourselves for the discomfort by plung-
ing at once into the excitement of
examining the shops and wares, the
skiers and the purchasers. So much
has been written about the Asiatic
appearance of this mart that the tra-
veller will feel a little disappointment
in meeting no gorgeous Asiatics, no
Chinamen, no wild-loo^dng savages,
and no Esquimaux ; Persians, Arme-
nians, and Tartars being apparently
the only Asiatics present, and even
those in no very great numbers. The
men from Bukhara or Khiva are after
all in dress and appearance only Tar-
tara But it is not so much the types
of the population as the extent and
nature of the trade wliich the traveller
should observe, for he here witnesses
one of those rude, ancient forms of
buying and selling which the introduc-
tion (H railways, and the establishment
of banks and credit, must very soon
render obsolete. The iron stored in the
mile of shops where nothing but that
metal is sold has been brought from
Siberia at an immense expense for sale
and distribution, perhaps within 100
miles of its place of production. Cus-
tom obliges the producers to offer their
goods at established markets, at cer-
tain seasons of the year, involving a
great loss of time in travelling, and
adding to the price of the article. Tlie
sales being periodical and infrequent,
dealers are forced to buy larger stocks
than they otherwise would ; conse-
quently tiiey require 12 months* and
sometimes 2 years' credit, which is of
course also paid by the consumer.
Railways have, however, not yet pre-
judiced the operations of the fair, be-
cause they do not extend farther E. than
Nijni, and trade is very tenacious of
old customs. Authentic records attest
that mercantile gatherings were held
at Nijni so early as 1366; and tra-
dition points to a still earlier origin.
Kazan, while an independent state, had
a fair of its own, but Bussian merchants
were prohibited from resorting to it by
John the Terrible. Another place of
gathering was allotted to them on the
banks or the Volga ; but in 16^1 a
charter to a monastery dedicated to
St. Macarius, and situated 71 m. below
Nijni, removed the fair to that place.
The monks of the monastery very
cleverly made Nijni a place of religious
as well as commercial resort, and levied
taxes on the trade which they fostei'ed.
These were almost uninterruptedly in
their hands until 1751, when the fair
became the property of the State, and
its revenues were farmed for about 150Z.
In the reign of the Emperor Paul the
farmer of the duties engaged to build a
new bazaar, and to pay 4500Z. a year
into the Exchequer. Between 1697
and 1790 the trade of the place had
increased in value from 12,000Z. to
4,500,0002. In 1824 the fair was re-
moved from the low site which it
occupied at Makarief to its present
position. The bazaar, governor's house,
and shops were erected by the govern-
ment, which stiU levies about SOOOl. a
year to cover the expenses of construc-
tions. uigitizedDy^ww^i^
224
Boute 8. — Nijni Novgorod : Fair,
Sect. I.
The governor's house is the centre of
the fair ; the lower floor of his residence
is oonverted into a bazaar for tiie sale of
manufaotured goods and fieuicy articles,
principally of European production,
although the stalls of hardware from
Tula, of silks from Persia, of precious
stones and various curiosities from
Bukhara and other parts of Central
Asia, and of geological specimens and
cut stones from Siberia, make it in
reality the cosmopolitan centre of the
mart. Travellers will be attracted by
the goods of the Tartar, who pretends to
owe allegiance to the Khan of Bukhara.
Beware of talismans and turquoises
that appear to be cheap; they will
probably be found cheaper and more
genuine at St. Petersburg. The mala-
chite and lapis-lazuli ornaments and
other stones from Siberia are some-
times good investments ; but in buying
lapis-lazuli be sure to rub the stone
well on cloth, or some other material,
to see if there are no white spots con-
cealed with a preparation of wax and
indigo. This precaution is necessary
even at St. Petersburg. There is a
stall held by a Russian for the sale of
ornaments in gold and silver, set with
Siberian and Persian stones. Curious
belts of silver may be purchased, but
not without long bargaining. It is
always safe to offer half the sum first
asked, and to approach gradually and
with caution to an agreement. Select,
and inquire the price o^ all the articles
you intend to purchase before making
any offer, for the seller, once ac(]^uainted
with your system of bargaiomg, in-
creases his demands in proportion for
any other articles you may wish to
purchase.
There is a very good restaurant
under the governor's house, where an
excellent dumer may be obtained.
A boulevard extends from behind
the official residence, leadiug to the
cathedral, the Tartar mosque, and the
Armenian church, which stand in
laudable, tolerant juxtaposition. The
shops along the boulevard are occupied
by silversmiths, drapers, furriers, and
drysalters. The plate and silver orna-
ments are very curious and pretty.
Travellers generally purchase some
small articles as keepsakes. Old silver
is sometimes to be picked up ; but in
all these transactions it is necessary to
have the assistance of a friend who
understands the language, or that of
an honest courier, llie price of sUver,
however, is not so nncertain as that of
other goods. The hall-mark is repre-
sented by the number 84. Behind
these shops is the *^ Chinese row,"
easily recognised by its Chinese archi-
tecture. The tea-trade is not so
flourishiug as formerly, since the re-
moval of tne prohibition to import sea-
borne tea, which now stocks the market.
The trade is now in a transition state,
the sea-borne and the land-carriage tea
alternately triumphing. Much depends
upon the relative quantities offered for
sale ; the prices are sent down one year
by an excessive importation, and they
rise the next &om a short supply;
but in the course of time Canton and
water-carriage will prevail, notwith-
standing the ill-fotmded prejudice
against that description of tea. The
Eussians, who are great tea-drinkers,
are accustomed to the higher qualities
of tea grown in the N. of China ; but
these are quite as easily obtained from
Canton as from Kiakhta, and the sea-
carriage has no deteriorating effect
whatever. The Ejakhta tea itself is
brought by water from Perm without
injury. There are some kinds of tea,
however, which scarcely ever enter
into the English trade, viz. yellow and
brick tea, me former of a delicious
fragrance and very pale, but injurious
to me nerves if taken frequently ; it is
handed round after-dinner in lieu of
coffee. The brick tea is consumed by
the Kalmucks and Kirghizes of the
Steppe. Specimens of these teas should
be purohased by the traveller. The
best yellow tea is about 35«. per pound,
done up in Chinese boxes, which make
very pretty presents.
The bazaar is surrounded by a small
canal, for protection against fire, con-
flagrations being of frequent occur-
rence. The groimd underneath is
intersected by sewers or doacie of
stone, which are entered by the small
whitewashed towers so frequently
These vaulted passages are
Eussia,
Boute 8. — Nijni Novgorod': Fair.
225
flushed several times a day by pump,
which draw the water from the adjoin-
ing rivers. The sanitary precaution
is much to be commended, and must
have cost a considerable outlay.
But the bazaar built by the Emperor
Alexander has too confined a space for
the trade of Nijni. The fair now
extends far beyond, to the very banks
of the Volga and the Oka, with its rows
of shops, its restaurants, and even its
theatre. The ** Siberian Line " skirts
the Volga, and consists of innumerable
warehouses of tea, cotton, iron, rags,
&c. The wharves are well worthy of
inspection, being quite 10 miles in
length. It will interest the traveller
to watch the sturdy Tartar labourers
unloading the mediffival-looking craft,
laden with grain, water-melons, hides,
wooden boxes, wine-skins from the
Caucasus, madder and cotton from
Bukhara, and with almost every other
description of merchandize that the
earth yields or industry produces. The
huge floating machines for towing up
vessels are fast going out of use as the
number of steam-tugs increases. There
are no fewer than ^0 steamers now on
the Volga* most of them having been
built in England and in Belgium.
Some have been brought down in
pieces, and put together ; others have
been skilfully piloted through the
canals and nvers, which combine to
form an uninterrupted fluviatile com-
munication from one extremity of the
empire to the other. It is an mterest-
ing fact that the first vessel of war ever
bmlt in Bussia was launched at Nijni
by a company of merchants from BLol-
stoin, who obtained permission in the
nth centy. to open a trade with Persia
and India, by way of. the Caspian. The
vessel was called the Friodnch. The
travels of Olearius were in connection
with this undertaking.
The outskirts of the fair are more
interesting than its centre for observa-
tion and study. The constant succes-
sion of carts in long strings ; the crowds
of labourers ; the knots of earnest-look-
ing traders with long beards ; the itine-
rant vendors of liquid refreshments and
white rabbit-skins ; tlie greasy, slovenly
monk collecting the kopecks of those
who fear to withhold their charity lest
their transactions be influenced by the
Evil One ; the frequent beggars, plead-
ing for the most part that they have
been burnt out, and showing the most
dreadful-looking sores as evidence of
their veracity:— aU these men and
things attest the present importance of
the Fair of Nijni and ihe immense
business which is transacted there.
The sales and purchases represent the
value of more than 16 millions sterling,
which pass through the hands of
150,000 to 200,000 traders, that being
the average number of those who as-
semble daily to exchange the produce
of Europe for that of Asia. The bakers
are bound to make daily returns of the
quantity of bread which they sell, and
it is in this manner that a rough esti-
mate of the daily population is made.
Great quantities of dried fish are
sold at Nijni. The annual value of
the sturgeon, alone, taken in the Volga
is estimated at 2^ millions of roubles,
and above 30,000 barrels of Caviar
have been despatched from Astrakhan
in a single year.
Two other fairs are held at Nijni
Novgorod, but they are very little
visited by foreigners. The one, held
in Januaiy, on the ice, at the mouth of
the Oka, is devoted to the selling and
buying of wooden wares, such as toys
and boxes. Great numbers come in
on this occasion from the neighbour-
ing villages. In January, 1864, the
ice on which the booths and inns were
constructed gave way, and a consider-
able number of men, women, children,
and horses miserably perished by
drowning. The other tail', held on the
6th July (N.S.), is for the E»le of horses.
The traveller may be inclined to
enter some of the booths devoted to
eating and diinking, where large
masses of the population may be seen
herded together, intent on some of the
dishes described under the head of
"Cuisine and Bestaurants;" but ho
will probably content himself with the
view from the tower and the terrace,
with a rapid drive to the wharves and
warehouses, and a saunter in the ba-
zaar, where ^pe^^m^ j)^ha«3S may
be effected. , ^
226
BotUe 8. — Murom,
Sect. I.
The more inquisitive traveller will,
however, ask for the " Armenian Kit-
chen" or Restaurant, where he will
get an exceedingly good and cheap
dinner, of which the menu will be :—
1, Chihotma or soup; 2, PiUaw; 3,
Shisfdik, or small pieces of mutton
delicioualy fried; 4, JJuli-Kohal; and
5, Dolma, meat served in vine-leaves.
A very sound wine, " Chkhir*' com-
pletes the repast. Excellent horse-
flesh is to he had at the Tartar Ees-
taurant in the same neighbourhood.
EXCURSION UP THE OKA TO MUROM,
ELATMA, AND KASIMOP.
Steamers leave Nijni 3 times a week
for Elatma, on the Oka, one of the
most important rivers in Russia (its
length being 1400 v.), performing the
voyage up stream in about 36 hrs.,
and returning to Nijni in about 30 hrs.
The days are not given here for fear
of changes. Inquire at the oflSces of
tiie " Samolet Steam-ship Company "
at Nijni. Leaving Nijni Novgorod at
11 A.M., the boat will be at daybreak
abreast of
Pavlovo, a large village, of which
the population is exclusively occupied
in the production of cutlery, locks, &c.
The scissors and knives of Pavlovo are
superior in quality to those of Tula.
Its locks, varying in price from 2 cop.
to 20 r., are sold over Russia, and
partly exported to Asia. A visit to
this diminutive Sheffield will prove of
great interest to the traveller who is
studying the commercial development
of Russia.
MuROM will be reached in about 24
hrs. after leaviug Nijni. This is a
famous old town of 10,000 Inhab. It
is supposed to have been founded by a
Finnish tribe, which bore the same
name, and which inhabited the banks
of the Oka in the 9th centy. It be-
came the seat of a principality in the
11th centy., under Gleb, son of St. Wla-
dimir, and who reigned there until the
year 1016. The principality then be-
came subject to the Princes of Chemi-
goff, Rostof, and Riazan, and in 1353
to the principality of Wladimir. At
last it was annexed to the principality
or grand duchy of Moscow. It has
been frequently devastated — ^in 1087
by the Bolgars, in 1096 by Isiaslav,
son of Wladimir Monomachus, and
thrice in the 13th centy. by the Tar-
tars ; while in the 17th centy. entire
villages of fishermen were rooted out
by the Poles. The old Kremlin walls
were taken down in the last centy. Of
the 14 churches in Murom the most
remarkable are : — 1, The Cathedral of
the Nativity, built about 1170, on the
hill of the Voevods, above the Oka.
The founder. Prince George of Murom,
and Prince David, with his consort
Euphrosine (a.d. 1228), are buried
within it. A fair is held round this
cathedral on the 25th June (O.S.). 2,
The Ch. of Our Lady of Kazan, built
in the reign of John the Terrible ;
3, The Nicologorod Ch., founded ia
the 17th centy. ; 4, The Ch. of the
Resurrection, built about 1650 ; and
5, The Ch. of Cosmo and Damian, at-
tributed to the 14th centy.* There are
2 monasteries and 1 convent at Miux)m :
— 1, Monastery of the Transfiguration,
known to have existed in the 11th.
centy. The son of Wladimir Monoma-
chus, killed in 1096, was originally
buried here, but his remains were re-
moved later to the Cathedral of St. So-
phia in Novgorod. 2, Monastery of
the Annunciation. On its present site
stood a ch. erected in the 12th centy.,
and which was restored in the 13th
centy. In 1553 John the Terrible,
passing through Murom on his way to
the conquest of Kazan, swore on the
tombs of the Princes of Murom, to
build here a monastery in the event of
his safe return. Its foundations were
accordingly laid in 1555, and in 1563
the monastery and its ch. were com-
pleted. The holy relics of Prince
Constantino of Murom, and of his sons
Michael and Theodore, are exhibited
• One of these churches fell in with a crash
early in 1868, bat will be restored.
Biissia.
B<mte 8. — Elatma — Kasimof,
227
in a silver shrine. The Convent of the
Trinity was founded in 1642.
Trade.— Even in the 10th and 11th
cents. Murom was a place of great
trade, visited by the Bolgars, and by
merchants from Chemigoff, Smolensk,
Kief, Biazan, and even by Greek
traders from the Crimea. Its dense
and extensive woods were famed for
their honey, and for the beasts of the
chase that dwelt .within them. They
were also infested by bands of robbers,
whose deeds are still told in nursery
tales. The position of Murom, on the
borders of a manufacturing district, on
one side, and on those of a rich agricul-
tural zone on the other, has greatly
contributed to its present prosperity.
There is a great trade at Murom in
wheat, flax, linseed, and timber. In
1861 the town boasted of 10 linen manu-
factories, which produced goods of the
value of half a million of roubles. It
was formerly celebrated for its leather,
but this industry is now on the de-
cline. There are also 23 flour-mills
in the neighbourhood of the town.
Their produce is principally carried to
Rybinsk on the Volga. Markets are
held on Saturdays, and are more par-
ticularly animated in winter, when
3000 to 5000 sledge-loads of com are
brought into the town for sale. Im-
mense quantities of fish are caught at
Murom, as well as at other places on
the Oka.
The Vyksouruiki iron-works are
situated on the opposite bank of the
river at about a day's journey from
Murom. They are worked by an
English company, under the superin-
tendence of a resident English director.
Ltarge quantities of cast iron and rails
are produced here, the ore being raised
on the estate, which has been leased to
the company by the Crown for a cer-
tain number of years. It is needless
to say that the English or American
traveller, wishing to see something of
the mineral wealth of Eussia, will
meet with the greatest attention at
Vyksa.
After passing a village called Dos-
chaty, of which there is nothing to be
said, the steamer will reach the ut-
most point at which the Oka is
navigable, except by flat barges. This
is
Elatma. Pop. 7000. It stands on
the 1. bank of the river, and is first
mentioned in 1381, although it is sup-
posed to have been founded by the
Mestchera and Mordva tribes (vide
Biazan). It was purchased by the
principality of Moscow from its Prince,
Alexander Unkovitch, of the Mest-
chera tribe, from whom are probably
descended the present numerous
Princes Mestchersky of Russia. In
the centre of the town is a square,
bordered by an ancient ditch. A mo-
nastery formerly stood there. The
town carries on a small trade in
grain, cattle, tallow, &c. Leaving the
steamer here, the traveller must en-
gage a' peasant's cart and " troika " to
take him to
Kasimop. — The town of Kasimof
(Pop. 11,000), on the 1. bank of the
Oka, 136 V. E.S.E. from Riazan, is a
place of very great trade, being in the
centre of the water communication
between Moscow and Nijni Novgorod,
and on the high road from Astrakhan
to both those cities. The com of
Tambof and Penza is brought there in
large quantities for distribution over
the less fertile parts of the provinces of
Riazan and Wladimir, and the annual
amount of business done is estimated
at two and a halt' millions. The in-
habitants of Kasimof are very indus-
trious, and have such a high reputation
for honesty that most of the waiters
in the hotels at St. Petersburg and
Moscow are " Kasimof Tartars." The
principal industry of the town is the
tanning of hides and the dressing of
sheepskins. The bells of Kasimof
are also much loved by the yamstchiks
or postilions throughout Russia.
The town is remarkable as having
been the seat of a small Tartar king-
dom which existed until 1667. It was
given by Basil the Dark to Kasim, a
Tartar who emigrated to Russia in
1446, and became the ally of the sove-
reign of Moscow.
The hordr^Bf "-Kasimof did good
31 3
228
Boute 9.— The Volga.
Sect. I.
servioe during the wars of the princes
of Moscow with the Tartars, Novgo-
rodiaiis, Livonians, and Poles. Its
Tsars assisted John the Terrible in
the capture of Kazan, 1552. The last
Tartar ruler became a Christian and
died in 1667, when his small dominions
were incorporated with Bussia. Peter
the Great caused a considerable portion
of the population to be removed to
Voronej, where they were attached to
the dockyards. The mosque, supposed
to have been built by Kasim, is still
extant, but the minaret^ attributed to
the same age, was rebuilt in the 18th
century. There is a maiLsoleum near
the mosque, erected by Shah Ali in
1555, and another outside the town,
built in 1616, by the Tsarevitch
Orslan. Inscriptions prove the tombs
within it to be those of ancient Tsars
of Kasimof. There is no trace of their
old palace, and the foundations of the
palaxJe of Seid Burkhan, seen by Pallas,
have been levelled to the ground by
the present proprietor of the soil.
There is a convent in the town, but the
date of its establishment is unknown.
The church within it was built 1715.
Instead of returning to Nijni Nov-
gorod, travellers can post from Kasimof
to Biazan (90 m.)* and take rail there
either soutiiwards or for Moscow.
ROUTE 9.
YOLQA : TVEB TO ASTEtAEHAN.
(For journey to Tver and description
the town, see Rte, 6.)
Ptolemy and other ancient geogra-
phers had little accurate knowlSge
respecting the Volga, and called it
the Great Biver. Its classical name
was Bba. In remote times it was
the main artery of communication be-
tween Central Asia and the filack Sea.
The Scythians and Sarmatians were
anciently reputed as inhabiting its
banks. The Huns, Khazars, and Bolgars
subsequently formed powerful states
on it ; but the Throne of Bussia having
been removed to Vladimir, the Bus-
sians began to possess themselves of
the course of the river. Nijni Nov-
gorod was founded on it in the 13th
cent The Bussian provinces suffered
much from the inroads of the Tartars
of the kingdom of Kazan. The latter
became the tributaries of John III.,
and were finally incorporated by John
the Terrible, who also seized the Tartar
kingdom of Astrakhan, and thus ob-
tained possession of the entire course
of the Volga. But its navigation was
long rendered unsafe by pirates. All
the popular legends of the Volga are
connected with deeds of plunder and
bloodshed by the population along its
banks. The rebels Steuka Bazin and
Pugachef were the last to disturb its
tranquillity, and it is now a peacefdl
highway of commerce, uniting, by
means of its affluents and wi& the
assistance of several artificial canals,
the Caspian with the White Sea and
the Baltic.
The Volga rises in some small lakes
about 47 m.S.W. of Valdai. At Tver,
where it first becomes navigable bv
small steamers, it acquires a breadth
of 100 fathoms, and a depth of about
l}ft.
1. Boats leave Tver daily for Ta-
rodaf. The following towns are
Korchef, 57 m. from Tver.
Kalicusifit 120 m. from Tver.
UoLrroH, 125 m. from Tver. 11,000
Inhab.
The latter is a town of considerable
historical interest The steamer stops
here some hours. It is supposed to
have been founded about a J). 950. It
was long governed by princes from
Eussia.
Boute 9. — Byhimh — Taroslaf.
229
Wladimir. In 1237 the inhabitants
submitted to the Tartars, who subse-
quently ravaged it during a quarrel
Mdth its prince. The toym continued
the scene of an incessant internecine
war between rival princes, until John
III. annexed it to Moscow. On the
death of John the Terrible, in 1584,
the Council of Boyars persecuted the
family of his last consort, to whom he
was married in 1580. She was exiled,
with her son Dimitry (or D^netrius),
to Uglitch, where the young prince
was assassinated (vide Oath, of As-
sumption). Prince Gustavus, son of
Eric King of Sweden, exiled from his
country, was invited to Uglitch by the
Tsar Boris Godunoff, who caused him
to be imprisoned in the fortress of that
town in 1611, on his refusal to marry
his daughter. He was later removed
to Yaro^af and then to Eashio, where
he died. On the death of Boris, the
town was treacherously surrendered to
the Poles by a citizen, when 20,000
of its inhabitants are stated to have
been massacred and burnt in a huge
bonfire. The monasteries on that occa-
sion were pillaged of all their treasures.
Fires and inundations in the 18th cent
complete the list of misfortunes to which
the town has been a prey.
The palace of young Demetrius, built
in 1462, stands in the principal square
of the town. It has been restored.
Myakkin, 168 m. from Tver.
Mologa, 203 m. from Tver. The
Tikhvin canal system begins here.
123 m. from Tver, Pop.
10,500, at the confluence of the Volga
and Sbeksna. Although only made a
town in 1778, Rybinsk is one of the
most important commercial centres of
the empire, especially for grain. The
Mariinsk canal system begins here.
By it the grain and tallow from the
provinces along the lower course of the
river, are carried to St. Petersburg.
The goods are transshipped in summer,
at Bybinsk, into smaller vessels &r the
upper part of the Volga and the several
fluviatile systems, employing 100,000
labouiers. 4000 to 5000 vessels arrive
there yearly, with cargoes valued at
about 4,000,000?.; and 7000 to 8000
leave it with goods to the amount of
5^ nulhons sterling. Great detention
is caused by the accumulation of so
much shipping ; and although the grain
reaches BybinJdE about the end of April
or the beginning of May (O.S.), it is
seldom delivered at St. Petersburg
before June or July. A railway is
much needed to accelerate and cheapen
the transport of such immense stores.
There are two hotels at Bybinsk,
frequented by merchants. Travellers
will do well to stay a day here, in
order to acquire a proper appreciation
of the immense resources of the Rus-
sian empire.
Bomanqf-Boriioglebsk, 267 m. from
Tver. 24 m. beyond is
Yaroslap, Pop. 32,000, at confluence
of Volga and Kotorosl, founded be-
tween 1025 and 1036 ; burnt by the
Tartars in 1237 ; pillaged by pirates in
1371 ; and constantly embroiled in the
wars of the princes. The English mer-
chants had a factory here in the 16th
centy., and laid the foundation of the
commercial prosperily of the town,
which deals principally in grain and
iron. There is a large and celebrated
linen manufSactory here, estab. 1722.
Mniczek (Mnishdc) Marina, the wife
of first of the many pretenders, was
killed here in 1606. Yaroslaf sur-
rendered to the Poles in 1608, who
were, however, shortly after driven out.
In 1612 and 1617 it was a point of
gathering for the patriots under Po-
jarski and Minin. Biren, Duke of
Courland, lived here in exile with his
family between 1742 and 1761, and
Prince Peter of Oldenburg was bom
in the town.
There are 77 churches in Yaro-
slaf. The chief of these is the Oath,
of the Assumption, originally built in
1215. The present edifice, however,
dates from ld46. The military stand-
ards of the militia raised in 1812, and
1853-1856, are kept in this church.
The best hotel is in Pastukhof s
house, where a table-d'hote is kept.
There will soon be a railroad hence to
Moscow.
2. There are no places of importance
between Yaroslap and^^^*^
230
Bouie 9. — Ko$troma.
Sect. I.
Kostroma (20,000 Inhab.), 340 m.
from Tver.
Hotels: "London" and "Kostroma."
Kostroma was built in 1152 by
George, surnamed DolgoruM (Longi-
tharm), son of Vladimir Monomachus.
In 1271 Novgorod acknowledged the
authority of the Prince of Kostroma,
which then became the capital of
Russia for about six years. Dimitry
of the Don fled to this town on the
invasion of Tokhtamysh (1382). The
plague and a dreadful famine, in 1420
and 1422, reduced the population, on
which the Tartars had already inflicted
much suffering. The town submitted
to the Polish Pretender in 1608, and
was occupied by Lissofski. The inci-
dent on which the opera of * Life for
the Tsar' is founded took place near
Kostroma, where the estates of the
Romanoff family were situated. A
monument stands here, erected during
the reign of Nicholas, to the memory
of Ivan Susanin, the peasant who saved
the Tsar. Great privileges and immu-
nities were bestowed on his descend-
ants, but they have recently been
forfeited.
The CaHhedral of the Assumption was
constructed in 1239, and has imder-
gone but little alteration since. Its
antiquity is corroborated by the fact
of the altars within it being directed
towards the N., hot the E., as in all
other churches in Russia ; the former
being the direction in which a miracu-
lous image of the Virgin, to which the
ch. is dedicated, appeared to Prince
Basil when out hunting. It is a most
remarkable monument of ancient eccle-
siastical architecture. The celebrated
monastery of Ipatief lies outside the
town, on the banks of the Kostroma.
It was founded by the ancestors of the
Tsar Boris Godunoff in the 14th centy.
It was surrounded by a wall in 1586.
The young Tsar Michael took refuge
and accepted the crown in it a.d. 1613.
It contains many holy images and relics
of antiquity. The rooms in which
Michael Romanoff lived are here
shown. The furniture and stoves are
of the period. A pillar of stone in the
5ntre of the court records the several
historical events with which this mon-
astery has been connected:
There are several manufactories at
Kostroma, and an extensive steam
factory belonging to Messrs. Shipoff.
The Volga has a breadth here of 250
fathoms. The high road to Siberia
passes through the town.
3. Kostroma to Nijni Novgorod. —
A short distance from Kostroma is a
Tartar village, founded in the early
part of the 16th centy. by Nogai Tar-
tars, who still retain their nationality
strongly. The women make very
pretty lace. The steamer stops at
pies, a small town founded in 1409.
There is a very large linen manufactoiy
here, and a considerable trade in grain
and hardware (in the shape of axes).
Kineshma, 405 m. from Tver, is a
district town in the province of Kos-
troma, with a Pop. of 2500. Great
quantities of linen are manufactured
by the peasants of this district One
of tlie best linen manufactories in
Russia, with 20 Jacquard looms, stands
a few miles beyond the town.
Yurief^PovolJshi, 440 m. from Tver.
The XJnja river fells into the Volga
opposite the town. Hence to Nijni-
Novgorod the population along the
banks of the Volga are engaged in ship-
building, and partly in spinning flax.
The next stations before Nijni are
Katunhi, a famous place for leather and
the skins of cats, of which 40,000 to
50,000 are annually dressed ; GorodetSj
where Alexander Nevski died, 1263;
and Bakikhna, frequently inundated in
spring, where a fleet intended for the
sea of Azof was built in 1695.
For NuNi-NovGOROD, see description
in Rte. 8.
4. NiJNi-NovGOROD TO Kazan. — ^At
Nijni the traveller will embark in a
larger boat. The best steamers belong
to the ** Volga " Company, but those of
the " Samolet " Company are very-
good.
The banks of the river become more
picturesque at Nijni, where the Volga
has a breadth of two-thirds of a mile.
Maharief, 72 m. from Nimi. The
fair was formerly held herk'o^'^
Eussia.
Bouie 9. — Kazan,
231
Vasil, 108 m., founded 1523.
Kozmodemiansk, 140 m. from Kazan,
Pop. 5000.
ChMksary, one of the prettiest
situated towns on the Volga» with an
ancient monastery and leaning tower.
Sviajsk, 25 m. — ^Most of these small
towns were founded by John the Ter-
rible during his expedition to Kazan.
Kazan, 794 m. from Tver, Pop.
60,000. Founded in 13th or 14th
centy. The Tartar kingdom of Kazan
was established 1438, after the town
had been partially deserted by its
original Mongol inhabitants. The
Tartars were in constant conflict with
the Russians at Nijni-Novgorod, who,
with the assistance of the Grand Duke
of Moscow, rfiequently marched upon
Kazan, but without any signal success,
until John the Terrible took it, in
1552, with an army of 150,000 men.
The Tartar Tsar Edigei was made
prisoner, and all his troops were slain.
Kazan was reduced to ashes by Pugar
chef in 1774. In 1815 and 1842 it
was almost entirely burnt down. The
town stands about 5 m. &om the banks
of the river.
Holds: ''Odessa" and Hesanofs.
Best dinners at Commonen's restaurant
in Voskresensk-street.
Sights, — 1, The Kremlin, attributed
to 15th centy. 2. Within its walls is
a cathedral, built 1562. 3. Sumbeki,
a pyramidal tower, 244 ft. in height,
probably built in reign of Empress
Anne. John the Terrible caused every
building within the Kremlin to be de-
stroyed, and even the tombs of the
Tartar sovereigns to be levelled with
the ground. It is thei-efore doubt-
ful that tMs tower is a remnant of
Mongol architecture. 4. The Bogoro-
ditsky Convent, near the Kremlin, was
built 1579, to receive the miraculous
image of " Our Lady of Kazan," dis-
covered unscathed in the ashes of a
conflagration. The church, which now
contains this venerated image, was
completed about 1816. The diamond
crown on the head of the Virgin was
presented by Oath. II. 5. At a mile
from the tovm is a monument over the
remains of those who fell at the siege
of Kazan, erected 1823. 6. The Ad-
miralty was founded, in 1718, by Peter
the Great, who built a flotilla there for
the Volga and Caspian. The hoige in
which Catherine made her celebrated
progress down the Volga is shown
here. 7. The University, founded
1804, consists of four faculties — his-
tory, physics, jurisprudence, and medi-
cine ; fretjuented by about 450 students.
Principal library, 60,000 vols. State
contribution, 1865, 33,000Z. An Eng-
lish professor is attached to it.
There are 126 factories of different
kinds at Kazan. Soap and stearine
works are the most important. Next
to them are the tanneries, for which
the town is widely celebrated.
The steamer stays here long enough
for travellers to inspect the town, which
is full of life and animation. The
Tartar population (7000), with their
quaint costumes, impart an Eastern
appearance. Education is very much
developed among them, a school being
attached to every mosque. Travellers
visiting Nijni should not fail to run
down to Kazan, even if they are un-
able to proceed to Astrakhan. The
various races inhabiting the banks of
the Volga afford a most interesting
study. The most curious of these are
the Mordva, the Chuvashi, and the
Cheremissi, of Finnish and Mongolian
origin. I'he trip only occupies 24
hours there and 29 hours back.
5. Kazan to Smbibsk and Saratopt.
— At about 53 m. below Kazan, the
Kama river, 1100 m. in length, falls
into the Volga, which is here 4000
fathoms broad. The Kama is the
great artery of communication with
Siberia. It is navigated by about
1700 vessels, besides rafts, which give
occupation to 32,000 men. The goods
brought by it to Nijni are valued at
2^ millions sterling, principally salt
from Perm, iron, and other metals.
{Vide "Rte. 25.)
Simbirsk, 937 m. from Tver, Pop.
22,000, founded by the Boyar Hitrovo,
1648. It was besieged by Stenka
Eazin in 1670, and burnt. Pugachef
was sent here in an iron cage by
Suwaroff, after the defeat of the rebel
232
Boiite 9. — Astrakhan,
Sect. I.
by Colonel Michelson. The whole of
the country at this part of the Volga
had joined the rebellion, and Cathe-
rine II. had great fears for the safety
of her capital. In 1864 the whole of
the town, with the exception of a very
few houses, was burnt down, it is
supposed by an incendiary. There is
a great trade in grain there.
Stavropoly founded in 1737, for the
baptism of a Calmnck horde. Here
the Volga makes a sudden bend to the
E., and, after flowing in that direction
for 40 m., turns to the S., aAd then
again abruptly to the W., forming an
arch or bow 100 m. in length. Nearly
the whole of the country enclosed
within this bend was granted in free-
hold and perpetuity to the Orloff
family, and is now in the possession of
Count Orloff Davydoff.
Samara, 1087 m. from Tver. Seat
of great trade in grain and tallow.
There is a celebrated establishment
near the town where many cures are
effected by means of Kumyss or fer-
mented mare's milk. The mineral
waters, 80 m. S.E. of Samara, are in
great repute. Best hotel is Ushakoff's.
Saratoffy Pop. 70,000. Large trade
in raw produce. The Volga is about
3 m. wide, opposite the town. In
spring it attains a width of about 15
m. Erfurt's Hotel.
6. Saratofp to Astrakhan. — Kor
mysJdn, 100 m. from Saratoff, was
fortified, in 1668, by Colonel Thomas
Baillie, an Englishman in the Russian
service. The fortifications were verv
useful in the suppression of Cossaot
piracy on the Volga. Its inhabitants,
in 1700, instigated by the Don Cos-
sacks, rose in rebellion against the
reforms of Peter, and murdered all
those who shaved in compliance with
the Tsar's orders. In the vicinity are
traces of a canal, which was commenced
by Devlet Girey, in 1550, in order to
unite the Volga with the Don. Peter
the Great began another canal lower
down, which was likewise abandoned.
The Volga and the Don are still the
only great rivers in Russia of which
the waters are not connected.
Tsaritsyn, 1657 m. from Tver, and
244 from Saratoff. It was treacherously
surrendered to Stenka Razin in 1670,
and again plundered by the rebel
Bulavin in 1707. Peter the Great
visited the town in 1722, and con-
firmed its privileges; on which occar
sion he presented the inhabitants with
his stick, saying, *' Here is my stick ;
as I managed my friends with rt, so
you defend yourselves with it against
your enemies." Then taking off his
cap, and likewise giving it, he said,
" As no one dares to take this cap off
the head of Majesty, so shall no one
dare to turn you out of Tsaritsyn."
Both relics are preserved in the town-
hall.
There is a railway between this and
Kalatch on the Don (vide Rte. 18).
The mosquitoes are very troublesome
here, worse than at any point on the
river.
Astrakhan, Pop. 49,000, 1962 m.
from Tver.
Hotel : The only hotel is the ** Ros-
sia."
This was the seat of a Tartar king-
dom until 1557) when it was taken
by the troops of John the Terrible,
who assumed the title of Tsar of As-
trakhan. Selim, the Sultan of Turkey,
marched against it in 1569, but was
forced to retire. The inhabitants
broke out into rebellion in 1605, in
fevour of the firat Pretender. They
bound the archbishop hand and foot,
and carried him ignominiously to Mos-
cow. Marina, the wife of the false
Dimitry, seized the town in 1608, at
the head of a large force of rebel
Cossacks. In 1660 the Tartars sur-
rounded Astrakhan, but were soon
driven away, with a loss of 10,000
men. The Tsar Alexis directed his
attention towards the commercial im-
portance of the town, and entered into
correspondence with the Shah of Persia,
with a view to the establishment of a
trade in silk and other produce. In
that reign the Duke of Holstein ob-
tained permission, through his embassy
(of which the well-known Olearius
was secretary), to trade with the
countries beyond the Caspian, and to
build ships on it. The rebellion of
Stenka Razin, in 1665, checked the
Eussia.
Boute 9. — Astrakhan,
233
new trade. By the treachery of its
defenders, Astrakhan was seized by
him in 1670. Its voevod and arch-
bishop were thrown down a precipice ;
the latter after havmg been divested
of his pontifical robes, and half-roasted .
The town was retaken in 1671, and
Stenka was executed and quartered at
Moscow. Another rebellion broke out
in 1705, but was speedily suppressed.
In 1722 Peter the Great came to
Astrakhan with a large force, when he
took Gilian, Derbent, Baku, and other
places on the Caspian. Companies
were soon after formed to trade with
Khiva, Bukhara, Persia, and India.
In 1734 an English company obtained
the privilege of trading on the Caspian,
but it suffered a loss of 80,000/. on the
death of Nadir Shah of Persia, and
renounced the undertaking. After
varying success, the Caspian trade is
now in a flourishing condition, and
employs about 1300 vessels. The
imports in 1860 amounted to about
500.000Z., and the exports to 800,000Z.
Fifihing is very largely pursued on the
A small flotilla is stationed
on ft. The sights are : 1. The Krem-
lin, built about 1582. 2. The Cath. of
the Assumption, constructed 1698,
containing many ecclesiastical relics.
3. Museum. 4. Gallery of portraits
of archbishops of Astrakhan. 6. Ad-
miralty, built 1722, and two boats used
by Peter the Great. 6. Library.
From Astrakhan the enterprising
traveller may take steamer to Bakii,
and return by way of Persia and the
Caucasus (vide Rte. 20). A trip to
Astrabad should in any case be made.
The voyage from Tver to Nijni by
steamer generally occupies 2J to 3
days, and that from Nijni-Novgorod to
Astrakhan 6 days. The steamers do
not go on during the night, and stop
frequently to take in wood. There is
every comfort on board, and excellent
provisions. Some of the skippers speak
English, and nearly all some other
European language besides their own.,
The fare from Tver to Nijni, exclusive
of living, is about 3Z. ; and from Nijni
to Astrakhan about 52.
Digitized by VjOOQLC
Digitized by VjOOQIC
SECTION II.— SOUTH EUSSIA AND CEIMEA,
CAUCASUS AND SIBERIA.
INTRODUCTION.
ROUTES TO ODESSA AND SOUTH OF RUSSIA.
The traveller will see by the map that there are several routes to Odessa,
viz: —
By Water, — 1. From London to Odessa. English steamers from the
London Docks (apply to Messrs. Smith, Sundius, and Co., City), and the
packets of the Kussian Steam Navigation Company, maintain a constant
communication with Odessa by way of the Mediterranean.
2. From Constantinople to Odessa, by Russian Steam Navigation Com-
pany's packets, leaving every week. Fares, 28 rs. and 18 rs. Passage
30 to 40 hrs.
3. From Yienna down the Danube to Galatz in Austrian boats. Travel-
lers may proceed all the distance to Galatz by boat, or go by rail from
Vienna to Bazias, and take the steamer which left Vienna the previous
day. The same ticket and fare for both routes. The boats of the Austrian
and Russian Companies correspond, so that travellers are not delayed at
Galatz. As a rule, the boats of the Russian Steam Navigation Company
are in every way to be recommended.
By Land, — 1. Berlin or Vienna to Odessa, by Lemberg, Czemowitz, and
Kishenef. Rte. 10.
2. Berlin or Vienna to Odessa, by Lemberg, Brody, Volochisk (on
Russian frontier). Bar, and Balta (railway in construction). Rte. 11.
3. Riga or St. Petersburg to Odessa, by Dtinaburg, Witebsk, Orel, and
Kief. Rte. 12.
4. Moscow to Odessa, by Tula, Orel, Kursk, KharkofiF, Poltava, Kremen-
chuk, Elizavetgrad, and Balta. Rte. 13.
The following is a description of the several routes by land. Before
proceeding by any of them travellers should inquire how far the railways
in construction have been pushed on and opened.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
KOUTES.
[Tiie names of pUces are printed in Uaiics only in tbose routes where the places are described.]
EOUTE PAGE
land, by Nikolaef and
Kherson 273
17. Odessa to the Crimea by sea :
Eupatoria to Kertch, and
excursions through the
Crimea 277
18. Kertch to Tsaritsin on the
Volga, by jBo«fo/ .. ..317
19. Boaiof to N(nH)eherha8k .. 318
20. London to TiftiSf by Constan-
tinople^ — The Cattcasus .. 319
21. Tiflis to Teheran, by Ararat
and Tabreez 323
22. Tiflis to Teheran, by Baku or
Lenkoran, and Resht or
Astrabad, on the Caspian 325
23. Lenkoran to Teheran, by
leuid, yit Besht .. ..326
24. London to Persia, by way of
St. Petersburg 328
25. London to Pekin, Yi& St.
Petersburg, Eiakhta, and
Mongolia 828
BOrTE ' i PAGE
10. Berlin or Vienna to Odessa,
by Lemberg, Ozemowitz,
6.nd Kishenef 236
11. Berlin or Vienna to Odessa,
by Lemberg, Brody, Voh-
ehiskf Bar, and Balta . . 237
12. Riga or St. Petersburg to
Odessa, by Diinaburg, Wi-
tebsk, Ord, and Kief, —
the South of Russia . . . . 238
13. Moscow to Odessa, by 2Wa,
Ord, Kursk, Kharkoff, Pel-
tava, Kremenchuk, Eliza-
vetgrad, and Bdlta . . . . 253
14. Moscow to Voronej, by Bia-
zan, Biajsk^ and Kozlof,
Branch lines to Morshanik
and Elets 264
15. St. Petersburg, Moscow, or
Riga, to Taganrog and
Rostof (Sea of Azof), by
Kharkof 270
16. Odessa to the Crimea over-
ROUTE la
BERLIN OB VIENNA TO ODESSA, BY
LEMBEBQ, CZEBNOWITZ, AND EISHENEF.
From Vienna by rail to Lemberg
and Czernowitz in Austrian Galicia.
(Vide Handbook for South Germany.)
Omnibus from Ozemowitz to Novo-
selitsa ; thence by post either to
Kishenef or Tiraspol, according to con-
dition of the railway, which will be
completed between Cfdessa and Kishe-
nef in 1870.
NovosELiTSA, Russian village in
prov. of Bessarabia, on frontier of Aus-
tria, and also on frontier of Moldavia,
on river Pruth. Pop. 2000. Hotdnot
as good as the one at Czernowitz,
where travellers will prefer to stop.
This village is supposed to have
^een founded in the 16th centy. by the
Dssacks, who came under their Het-
man Svlrgofski to assist the Walla-
chians against the Turks. There is a
considerable trade at Novoselitsa, par-
ticularly in timber, which, after being
floated down the Pruth, is carried over-
land to the Dniester. In 1861 goods
of the value of IJ million of roubles
were imported through its Custom-
house. ^
Travellers must here obtain an order
for post-horses, and either purchase or
hire a tarantass, the vehicle best suited
to the country. The charge for posting
is 2^ cop. per verst for eadi horse. The
distance from Novoselitsa to Kishenef
is 276 v., from the latter town to
Tiraspol 66 v., and thence to Odessa
by railway, now open, the distance is
110 V.
The towns through which the tra-
veller will pass on this route are : —
BiELTSi, 120 V. from Kishenef. Pop.
7000, on river Beut. There is a great
Bussia.
Boute 11. — Berlin to Odessa,
237
trade here in cattle, of which 150,000
head are annually sold for Poland,
Austria, Moldavia, Wallachia, and
Prussia. It comes from the provinces
of Kherson, Taurida, Podolia, Vol-
hynia, and Kief. There is also a con-
siderable business in grain.
Obgeiep, 41 V. from Kishenef.
Pop. 5700. On left bank of river
Rent. Until 1812 it belonged to the
Turks, and was the residence of the
Sirdars who governed the nortiiem
part of the present province of Bess-
arabia. The trade of the town is small,
but a considerable amount of smug-
gling is carried on via Kishenef.
KiSHENEP, 66 V. from Tiraspol.
Pop. 94,000. Chief town of Bess-
arabia, on river Byka.
A small town existed on the site of
Kishenef so far back as the 9th centy.
It is mentioned in a charter dated
1420, but in the 17th centy. it was de-
stroyed by the Tartars. In 1812 it
passed &om Moldavia to Russia. At
that time it belonged to the monastery
of the Holy Sepulchre. A Russian
metropolitan resides there since 1813.
It is the centre of a very considerable
trade in tallow, wool, wheat, hides, &c.,
carried hence to Odessa or to Austria
vid Novoselitsa. The principal mar-
ket-days are Mondays and Fridays. In
spring large quantities of cattle are
sold in the market, seldom less than
3000 head, at about 20 roubles apiece.
The inhabitants are much engaged in
cultivating fruit, vegetables, and the
tobcuxxvplant. Large quantities of
prunes, grown principally by Bul-
garians, are produced at Kishenef. If
file railway is not open so far, the tra-
yeller will have to post through
Bendeby (Pop. 22,000), a fortress
town, 58J V. from Kishenef, on the
right bank of the Dniester. The
Genoese bad a settlement here in the
12th centy. ; by the Moldavians it was
called Tigin, and its present name was
given by the Turks in the latter part
of the 14th centy.
In 1709. after the battle of Poltava,
Charles XII. established his camp
here, and, calling it New Stockholm,
defended himself against the Turks
imtU 1711.
The town has been taken by the
Russians 3 times, viz. in 1770, 1789,
and in 1806. It was only annexed to
Russia by the Treaty of Bucharest,
1812. The fortress is separated from
the town by a square, on which is a
mound called after Suworof. Tradition
says that Charles XII. and Mazeppa
reconnoitred the country beyond the
Dnieper from its summit. Near the E.
angle of the fortress is an ancient
castle, on the Dniester. There is a
considerable trade in wheat, wine,
wool, cattle, tallow, and particularly in
timber, floated down the Dniester.
Large quantities of goods are imloaded
here from boats, and carried overland
to Odessa and Jassy.
Tiraspol, 110 v. from Odessa in
prov. of Kherson. Pop. 10,000. On
left bank of Dniester. The fortress of
Tiraspol is now dismantled. Trade
inconsiderable. Grardening is the prin-
cipal occupation of the inhabitants.
Hence the railway is open to
Odessa.— F*VZe Rte. 12.
ROUTE 11.
BEBUN OB VIENNA TO ODESSA, BY LEM-
BEBG, BBODY, VOLOCHISK, BAB, AND
BAI/TA.
The railway from Volochisk to
Balta will be ready in 1870. Until it
is completed we need only give the
following short sketch of the route,
VoLocmsK, townlet in prov. of
Volhynia, on river Sbrutcha. Pop.
2500. Small trade with Austria.
Bab, a small town in prov. of
Podolia, on the banks of the Rov, an
affluent of the Bug. Pop. 8000. In
1452 this town, then called Rov, was
destroyed by the Tartars. Soon after,
Queen Bona Sforza, consort of Sigis-
mund I. of Poland, rebuilt the town,
built a castle, and gave both the town
and the castle the present name of Bar,
after Ban in Italy. In the 17th centy.
238
Boute 12.— PoZoteit.
Sect. II.
the cafltle was restored by the Hetman
Stanislaus Kone^polski. In 1648, and
again in 1651, it was taken by the
Cossacks, but in 1672 it fell to the
Turks, and was only restored to the
Poles in 1699. The Polish Confedera-
tion of Bar is frequently mentioned
in history as having been formed in
1768, three vears after which Bar was
taken by the Bussians, but, having
been again restored to Poland, it
formed part of the Vo^vodship of Po-
dolia until the partition of Poland in
1793, when it was transferred to Russia.
The Jesuits established a college th^re
in 1693, and the building is now de-
voted to- the purposes of a school.
There are 3 ens. and a monastery of
the Busso-Greek fia.ith, and 1 Boman
Catholic ch. Eleven fairs are held
during the year, but the transactions
are not considerable. (For journey
from Bar to Odessa via Balta vtde next
route.)
ROUTE 12.
BIGA OB ST. FETEBSBUBG TO ODESSA,
BT DUNABX7B0, WITEBSK, OBEL, AND
KIEF.
For journey from Riga to Diinaburg
vide Bte. 4.
For journey from St. Petersburg to
Diinaburg vide Bte. 1.
From Diinaburg the journey will be
continued as follows : —
Dbissa, 174 V. from Witebsk, at
the confluence of the Drissa with the
W. Dvina. Pop. 2000. A fortifica-
tion existed at Drissa in the 14th
centy., when it was destroyed by the
Prince of Polotsk. In 1565 Drissa
was occmpied by the Russians, but
Stephen Batory restored it to Poland,
to which it belonged until the annexa-
tion of White Russia (or the present
provinces of Witebsk and Mohilef), to
Russia Proper. During the war of
1812, the Russian General Barclay de
Tolly retreated before the French to
Drissa, and established an entrenched
camp there, which he abandoned, how-
ever, on the 18th (30th) July.
There is a large trade here with
Ri^ in flax and other produce.
Polotsk, 5th stat., 150 v. from
Dunaburg. Pop. 12,000. On river
Western Dvina.
History, — The history of Polotsk is
that of tne whole of the country lying
along the course of the Dvina, viz. of a
considerable part of White Russia. Its
foundation is attributed, on the faith
of Iceland SagoMj to the 1st centy. after
Christ According to the Chronicle
of Nestor, Polotsk, with some slight
variations in the name, existed prior to
the arrival of the Norman princes,
Rurik, Sineus, and Truvqr. The
authentic and eventful history of the
town begins in 864, when Polotsk was
one of the principal colonies in the
country of the Krevitchi. At his
death Truvor gave Polotsk to one of
his followers, and, in 980, chronicles
speak of it as belonging to an indepen-
dent Prince, Rogvolod, a Northman.
The proud refusal of his daughter '
Rogneda to marry Vladimir Prince of
Novgorod caused the downfall of
Polotsk, for Wladimir came there with
a large army, and, putting Rogvolod
and his sons to death, carried Rogneda
away as his wife.
Aimexed to the principality of
Kief, when Wladimir, afterwards cano-
nized, succeeded to that throne, it
became the portion of Isiaslaf, sou
of St. Wladimir by Rogneda. Its ex-
istence as an independent princi-
pality was frequently menaced by
the other descendants of Wladimu
between 980 and 1129, when the
Prince of Kief succeeded in taking
possession of it. But the town and
province of Polotsk continued to have <
many enemies— the Pskovites, the Li-
vonian knights, and the Lithuanians,
who wrested the principality from
each other by turns. A treaty be-
tween the Prince of Smolensk and
Riga in 1228 gave it to the former,
and in 1235 it was conquered by Rin-
holdt, a Lithuanian prince. During
the internecine war tnat followed on
the death of Mindovgus, Grand Duke
Bussia.
Route U.—Witebsk
239
of Lithuania, Polotsk was sold to the
Church of Biga, but it was purchased
again by the Lithuanians in 1307. Its
privileges were then gradually assimi-
lated to thoseof other provincial towns
in Lithuania, and in 1498 the law of
Magdeburg superseded the Lithuanian
and Russian laws under which Polotsk
had been previously governed. The
law of Magdeburg and other privi-
leges of Polotsk were confirmed by
successive grand dukes of Lithuania
and kings of Poland between 1510 and
1634. The development of the new
institutions was, however, frequently
retarded by daneer from without. In
1500 and 1502 tne Russians advanced
as far as Polotsk, laying waste the
country around them. Alexander,
Grand Duke of Lithuania, hastened
to put the castle in a state of defence,
but a truce saved the town. In 1507
the Russians once more entered the
province of ^Polotsk, and again with-
drew with a promise to leave it un-
molested in future. In 1511 they
returned and spread destruction around
them, and in 1515 and 1518 they laid
siege to the town, but without success,
for the fortifications had been well re-
paired. John the Terrible, however,
naving come to an open rupture with
Lithuania, advanced in person with
his army, a.d. 1563, and took the town
after a siege of two weeks, during
which many assaults were made. The
fall of Polotsk was celebrated all over
Moscovy with the ringing of bells, and
for 17 years it was governed by Rus-
sian Voevods ; but in 1579 King Ste-
phen Batory retook it, because •*the
Voevods were bad, and admired the
fair sex." There was great mourning
at Moscow in consequence, and John
the Terrible, in an impulse of rage,
caused all the troops that had re-
turned from Polotsk, or that had been
made prisoners and released, to be put
to death.
Batory had the walls and towers re-
paired, confirmed the ancient privi-
leges of the inhabitants, the Grand
Duke of Muscovy all the while at-
tempting to regain the town by peace-
ful negotiations, for which purpose he
even invoked the aid of England.
The death of John the Terrible and
the troubles that followed enabled the
Poles to retain peaceful possession of
the unhappy town, which was about
this time visited with pestilence and
famine, and nearly burned to the
ground. After many internal dissen-
sions of a religious character the town
fell again, in 1654, to the Russians,
who held it until 1667, when they re-
stored it to Poland under the Treaty of
Andrussy; and it was not until the
first partition of Poland, in 1772, that
Polotsk and the rest of White Russia
were finally incorporated with Russia
Proper.
In 1812 Murat and Ney established
themselves in the neighbourhood of
Polotsk, and, when they marched on
Witebsk, Oudinot was left in their
place.
Witebsk, 4th Stat., 93 v. from
Polotsk, and 243 v. from Diinaburg.
Pop. 28,000.
Hotel : "Brosi," with a restaurant
below, rooms tolerable.
History. — Situated on both banks
of the Western Dvina, and on the
Vitba rivulet falling into it, Witebsk
appears to have been founded before
the year 1021. In 1101 it was the
seat of an Independent principality,
which existed until tlie year 1320,
when it was annexed to Lithuania, on
the death of Prince Yaroslaf, who
had given his daughter in marriage to
Olgerd Prince of Lithuania. Oasimir
King of Poland gave the town many
privileges in the latter part of the
15th centy. In 1562 Prince Kurbski,
a Russian Voevod, who later incurred
the wrath of John the Terrible and
fled to Lithuania, burnt the suburbs
of Witebsk, and, in 1563 and 1569,
the Russians took the town and set it
on fire.
The Poles having subsequently re-
gained it, Sigismund III. compensated
the inhabitants for their losses by es-
tablishing a fieiir, and giving to the
town his castle of Lukishki, of which
no traces remain. In 1616 Witebsk was
again burnt down by the Russians and
Cossacks. Seven years later the in-
habitants rose and put to death Bishop
I Kun9c^vicz, who attempted to introduce
240
Soute 12. — Smolensh
Sect. II.
the Uniate faith, for which offence the ;
ancient privileges of Witebsk were with-
drawn for a time, but restored in 1641
by Wladislaus IV. The Russians, un-
der Sheremetiefl^ again took Witebsk
in 1654, after a siege of 3^ months*
duration, and held it until «L667, when,
together with Polotsk, it was restored
to Litiiuania under the Treaty of
AndruBsy. During the wars between
Peter I. and Charles XII., Witebsk,
which had sided with the Swedes,
and had even sent them a subsidy of
7000 thalers, was burnt to the ground
by Cossacks and Oalmueks, by the
order of Peter. It was finally incor-
porated with Russia in 1772.
In 1812, Witebsk, deserted by its in-
habitants, was occupied by the French
army. No one was to be seen in it but a
few Jews and Jesuits. They could give
no information. The French followed
in pursuit for 6 leagues, through a
deep and burning sand. At last night
put an end to their progress. The
soldiers, parching with thirst, could
get only muddy water to quench it;
and while they were busy in procuring
it. Napoleon held a council, the result
of which was that it was useless to
pursue the Russians any further at
present, and that it was advisable
to halt where they were on the confines
of Old Russia. As soon as the em-
peror had formed this resolution he
returned to Witebsk with his guards.
On entering his headquarters in that
city on the 28th July, he took oflf his
sword, and, laying it down on the maps
which covered his table, "Here," said
he, " I halt. I want to reconnoitre, to
rally, to rest my army, and to organize
Poland. The campaign of 1812 is
over ; that of 1813 will do the rest."
Napoleon left Witebsk on the 13th
August, after halting there a fortnight^
and on the 15th the army was in sight
of Krasnoi, where it defeated the corps
of Neverovski.
Havjng gone through so many cala-
mities, it is not surprising that Witebsk
should have no monuments of antiquity
to show the traveller. Its principal
buildings are — the Palace where the
Grand Duke Constantino of Russia,
brother of the Emperor Nicholas, died
in 1831 ; the Nobility Assembly House,
the Gynmasium, and the Cathedrals of
St. Nicholas and of the Assumption.
It has also a theatre, and an hospital
with 160 beds. There is a consider-
able trade with Riga in com, flax,
hemp, tobacco, sugar, and timber.
The country beyond Witebsk is very
pretty.
Until the rly. in course of construc-
tion is open for traffic, travellers will
have to post hence to Oerl.
Smolensk, 120 v. from Witebsk. On
riv. Dniepr. Pop. 23,000.
Hotd: Ratchinsky.
History. — Nestor calls Smolensk the
town of the Erivitchi, and alludes to
its existence prior to the Norman con-
quest of Russia. The Variague Prince
Gleg took possession of it in 882, and
untU the year 1054 it remained an-
nexed to the principality of Kie^ when
it fell to the share of Yiachesla^ son
of Yaroslaf I. The "provmoe" of
Smolensk at that time comprised the
whole of the present province of Smo-
lensk and part of the present provinces
of Witebsk, Pskof^ Moscow, and Ka-
luga. After passing under the govern-
ment of various princes it became the
appanage of Vladimir Monomachus,
who constructed in the town of Smo-
lensk the Cathedralof the Assumption,
which, although destroyed by the Poles
in the 17th centy., has since been re-
stored in its original form, and still
contains the image of the Holy Virgin,
given to Vladimir Monomachus by his
mother, daughter of the Emperor of
Byzantium. When Vladimir suc-
ceeded in his turn to the throne of
Kief, Smolensk was governed by his
2 sons. Rostislaf, son of the next
Prince of Kief, held Smolensk for 34
years as a vassal, and was drawn into
all the wars which the Princes of
Kief, Chemigof, and Novgorod waged
against each other.
Mention is made in old chronicles
of the magnificent reception given
to Rostislaf when as Prince of Kief
he passed through Smolensk ou his
way to Novgorod. His son Robert
succeeded mm at Smolensk, and
spent so much money in building
churches and estabjishing ecclesi-
Bussia.
Bouie 12. — Smolensh
241
astical schools that the expenses
of his funeral had to be paid by the
inhabitants. Many Veche or Wit-
tenagemotes were held about this
time at Smolensk, as in other towns of
Russia. The whole of the 12th centy.
passed in constant wars betwerai the
various princes. In the next centy.
Smolensk was menaced by a new foe —
the Lithuanians, who, in 1285, ad-
vanced up to Smolensk, and committed
great ravages, but without taking the
town, which had b^ this time grown
very wealthjr from its trade with the
Baltic provinces and the Hanseatic
League. The Germans even made a
commercial treaty with Smolensk as
early as 1229. A mutual right of trade
and a free passage from Smolensk to
Gothland in the Baltic was thereby
secured, subject to the payment of cer-
tain dues. This convention was con-
firmed in 1284 and 1330. The size of
the town may be estimated from the
fact that in 1231 it lost no fewer than
32,000 inhab. from the plague.
In 1237 the Tartars advanced on Smo-
lensk, but it was saved, according to a
legend, by a Boman named Mercurius,
who went into the camp of the in-
vaders and killed the giant on whom
they most relied for success in their
enterprise. Having been killed by the
Tartars while asleep from fatigue, Mer-
curius was recognised by the Church
as a martyr, and to this (my the helmet
and greaves which the hero wore during
the fight are sacredly preserved in the
cathedraL The Lithuanians now
made several attempts to possess them-
selves of Smolensk, which compelled
the inhabitants in 1275 to seek the
assistance of the Tartars, who a^ain in
1340 marched upon the city m con-
junction with the forces of the Princes
of Moscow and Riazan, but the expe-
dition fedled, owing, it is supposed, to
the Tartar chief having been bribed by
the besieged. Continual wars with
Moscovy and Lithuania, and another
dreadfm plague, soon after weakened
the principaUty, and it was at last taken
by tiie Lithuanians in 1395. In 1401,
however, Oleg, Prince of Riazan,
agreed to assist his father-in-law,
George, in the recovery of the throne
of Smolensk, and, having appeared
before the town with a large force, the
inhabitants opened their gates. Prince
George immediately put to death all
the Boyars who had espoused the cause
of the Lithuanians. Vitovt, Prince of
Lithuania, attacked Prince George in
1403, and after taking Viasma, in
order to cut off his communications
with Moscow, he laid siege to Smo-
lensk during a period of seven weeks,
but without success. Next year
he came again, while George was at
Moscow soliciting the aid of its prince,
and. reduced the town by famine
on the 26th June, 1404. Vitovt gave
the conquered town many privileges,
but its ruin was so complete that
a most dreadful famine ensued,
during which the inhabitants were
reduced to the condition of cannibals,
and **dogs were seen in the streets
feeding off hmnan bones."
King Casimir of Poland visited
Smolensk about 1453, and confirmed
all its former privileges. A truce with
Moscow in 1493, and the marriage of
Alexander, Grand Duke or Prince of
Lithuania, with Helen daughter of John
III. of Moscow, did not long preserve
Smolensk from further disasters. Al-
though the free exercise of the Greek
rehgion had been guaranteed to Helen,
yet Joseph, Bishop of Smolensk, soon
began openly to preach the supremacy
of the Pope and to interfere with the
religious observances of the Grand
Duchess. A dispute about boun-
daries gave the Moscovites a pretext
for attack, and the Lithuanians were
routed on the 14th July 1500 at Doro-
gobush (86 V. from Smolensk), but
Prince Alexander had put the town
into such an excellent state of defence
that the Moscovites were forced to
withdraw, after suffering much from
the want of provisions. A regular
peace was not concluded until 1503.
This had scarcely expired before war
broke out afresh between the Lithua-
nians and Moscovites, at the instiga-
tion of Glinsky, a Lithuanian noble
who went over to the Russians. After
many encounters and another truce,
John the Terrible resolved in council
to fight the Lithuanians '* as long as
242
Boute 12. — Smolensk.
Sect. II.
his liorso would carry him or his sword
cut/' and in 1513 he advanced on
Smolensk with a contingent from
Pskof, which was so unaccustomed to
fight that just before the assault their
courage had to be sustained by the
distribution of 8 casks of mead and 3
of beer.
A first and a second campaign proved
unsuccessful, but a third siege,* under-
taken in June 1514, with superior
forces, provided with cannon, and with
the assistance of mercenaries from
Bohemia and Germany, compelled the
citizens to surrender.
The loss of Smolensk was keenly
felt by the Poles and Lithuanians, and
during the whole of the 16th centy.
they endeavoured to regain possession
of it. Even the Khan of Tartary was
called in by King Sigismund to induce
the Eussians to abandon it, but in
vain. Stephen Batory tried to take it
by force of arms, but failed, for the
castle and fortifications had been care-
fully rebuilt. In 1596 these were
again strengthened under the super-
intendence of Boris Grodunof, after-
wards usurper of the throne of Mos-
cow. He built a new wall of stone
with 36 towers and 9 gates. The
ancient trade of the town was renewed,
but famine and epidemics continued to
succeed each other.
The 17th centy. was ushered in by
further troubles. On the death of Boris
Godunof, Smolensk surrendered to the
false Demetrius, who gave it with the
whole of the province to George (Yury)
Mnishek, Voevod of Sandomir, his
future father-in-law.
On the 21st April, 1606, the citizens
went out with church banners, and
with bread, salt, and sable skins, to
meet their " Tsaritsa" Marina, daugh-
ter of Mnishek. But their loyalty was
not of long duration. Tlie downfall of
the Pretender was the signal for their
marching against the Poles, then in
Moscow. Between 1608 and 1611
Smolensk held out against overwhelm-
ing Polish forces, and at last had to
sustain a siege of more than 20 months*
duration ; nor would the old town have
yielded, had not the weakness of one
of its walls been betraved to the Poles
by a citizen. On the 3rd July, 1611,
that part of the waU was battered
down, and the Poles broke into the
town, killing an immense nimiber of
the inhabitants. As many as 72,000
persons perished on the Polish and
Hussian sides during that memorable
siege. The Boyar Shein, who had so
manfully conducted the defence of the
city, was put in irons, tortured, and
then sent to Lithuania with otJier im-
portant prisoners. The Poles now
hastened to establish themselves and
their religion firmly in the conquered
province. They founded monasteries
and Eoman Catholic churches, and
gave the Jesuits and Bemardines full
liberty of action. Important charters
were at the same time granted to the
citizens. The new Tsar, Michael, was
forced by circumstances to acknow-
ledge the annexation of Smolensk and
other towns, except Viazma, to Poland
by treaty, in 1618, on condition, how-
ever, of his father, the Metropolitan
Philaret, being set at liberty. In 1632
that sovereign declared war against
the Poles with the object of regaining
Smolensk. Tlie conmiand of 32,000
troops and 158 cannon was given to
the same Boyar Shein who had de-
fended the city in 1611. At first the
Kussian forces Were successful, and
many towns siuTondered ; but in 1633
King Wladislaus came in person to the
relief of the besieged citizens, and
compelled the Russians on the 19th
February, 1634, to lay down their arms
under an armistice. The Boyar Shein
surrendered all his war material, stand-
ards, and provisions, and took oath
with his troops not to carry arms
against Poland during 4 months. It
was a great humiliation to the veteran
Boyar to see his troops march out of
tlieir camp without beat of drum, and
bow low to the hosts of Poland while
they deposited their colours at the feet
of the King. As an act of grace
Wladislaus permitted Shein to take
12 guns with him, but on returning to
Moscow the imfortunate man was be-
headed, together with his adjunct, the
Voevod Izmailof.
Twenty years later the war was
renewed under the Tsar Alexis, who
Eussia.
S(yute 12. — Smolensh
243
in 1654 arrived in person with a large
army before the walls of Smolen^.
The first assault, made after a siege
of 6 weeks, was repulsed, but after
a second attack -the Polish com-
mander, whose authority had been
weakened by a tumult among the
citizens, was forced to surrender.
On the 23rd September, 1654, the
Polish troops, this time, had to march
out of the fortress ignominiously, and
lay down their arms at the feet of the
Tsar. Hostilities continued for 12
years longer, and during that time
Smolensk remained in the hands of the
Russians, who re-established the Eusso-
Greek churches, and did their best to
Bussify the province. Great numbers
of the Polish population wer^ deported
to the Volga and the Kama, and re-
placed by ** sons of boyars " brought
forcibly from beyond Moscow. The
Treaty of Andnissy (1667) secured
Smolensk to the Russians for 13 years
and 6 months, but the Poles took ad-
vantage of the impending war between
Russia and Turkey in 1678 and de-
manded the restoration of the city.
This, however, the Russians refused to
do, and preferred paying an indemnity
of 200,000 r. and surrendering several
other towns. At last, by the Treaty
of 26th April, 1686, Smolensk was
annexed to Russia ** for ever.*'
The latter part of the 17th centy.
was passed by the citizens in peace,
and their ancient trade with Russia
and other countries was renewed.
When the great northern war broke
out at the beginning of the 18th centy.,
Peter the Great frequently visited
Smolensk, and devoted much labour
to securing it from danger. The great
war did not reach it, but it was made
the basis of the operations in Lithuania
and Little Russia, and the Poles natu-
rally regretted all the more the loss of
the city they had so long held. Jesuit
fathers penetrated into it and gained
over many of the citizens ; and although
their admission was prohibited by ukaz
in 1728, when those who had already
become domiciled in Russia were ex-
pelled, they continued, according to
Russian accounts, to enter the province
of Smolensk in disguise, and to pro-
jBti«wa.-1868.
_ ;te Catholicism and allegiance to
*oIand. In 1734 a regular plot was
discovered, in which even the Governor
of Smolensk, Prince Gherla^ky, was
implicated. Their designs were di-
vulged by one of the conspirators,
and the measures which the Russian
Government adopted dispelled the
hopes of the Poles, and left the city
of Smolensk in peace until the French
invasion.
The traveller is referred to the Hts-
torical Notice for an account of Bona-
parte's campaign in Russia, and we
need only add the following particu-
lars, as regards the city of Smolensk,
taken from a Russian source : —
" When the * grand army ' began its
march from the Niemen in 1812, the
Russian troops fell back on Smolensk.
Although Barclay de Tolly encou-
raged the inhabitants and assured
them of their safety, he nevertheless
caused the treasury to be removed,
and all documents from which the
enemy might derive any information
about the condition of the country.
The two Russian armies (one com-
manded by Barclay de Tolly, the
other by Bagration) reached Smolensk
on the 22nd July (O.S.), and encamped
on the 1. bank of the Dnieper. Tlu-ee
days later they retreated further, leav-
ing only one regiment in the town. In
the mean while the French advanced,
and, after the engagement with Never-
ofski at Krasnoi, appeared on the 3rd
August in the neighbourhood of Smo-
lensk. Raefski, sent to assist Never-
ofski, fortified as far as he could the
suburbs of the town, and resolved to
maintain himself in it until the ar-
rival of the two armies.
" On the morning of the 4th (16th)
August the fighting commenced, and
was continued the next day with great
carnage, as the armies had advanced
the day before. Many assaults were
repulsed, the old walls withstood a
fearful cannonade, and a dreadful fire
broke out in the town. . . . During
the night our troops evacuated the
town, and on the morning of the 6th
(18th) Napoleon entered it, but found
nothing except snioulderiDg ruins, and
no inhabitants Mi^V the old, the
N
244
Boute 12. — Boslavl — Briamk,
Sect.n.
voung, and the sick, many of whom
had taken refuge in the chnrches.
Napoleon remained 4 days at Smo-
lensk, and established a Commission
for the civil administration of the
town, with Caulainconrt as Military
Governor. The Commission could,
however, do nothing; a rising took
place aU over the country; bands of
partisans were formed, and destroyed
foraging parties, and even larger
bodies of the enemy, whenever they
met them. The French tried to over-
awe the people by acts of severity, and,
having seized the leaders of two bands
of partisans, Engelhard and Shubin,
shot them at Smolensk. This only
increased the animosity of the people,
and when, on the 29th October (O.8.),
Napoleon returned to Smolensk, he
found nothing for the support of the
remnants of the * great army.*
" The further retreat of Napoleon was
protected at Smolensk by Ney, who left
the citv on the 6th (18th) November,
after blowing up 8 of the towers built
by Godunof, and a part of the other
fortifications. The Russians who had
remained in the town issued out of
their places of refuge, and began to
destroy with frenzy tibe stragglers who
roamed about the town, throwing them
into the flames of the burning build-
ings and into holes in the ice. . . .
The 20th regiment of Rifles entered
Smolensk, and put an end to these
outrages. The removal and destruc-
tion of the bodies of men and carcases
of horses were continued for 3 months
afterwards, for many of the streets
were literally encmnbered with the
dead. At first the bodies were burned,
piled in heaps half a verst in length
and two fathoms Mgh, and, when
the supply of wood failed, they
were buned in trenches and covered
with quick-lime. Epidemics subse-
quently broke out in consequence.
The losses incurred by Smolensk were
at that time valued at 6,592,404 r.
60 c."
The mounds which cover tibe bodies
of the unfortunate Frenchmen will be
seen on either side of the old post-
road from Moscow. Altiiough the
demolition of the hlBtorical' walls of
Smolensk has been commenced by the
Town Council, there is reason to hope
that this act of vandalism will go no
further, and that the traveller, passing
through the old city, will still catch a
glimpse of its ancient defences.
BosLAVL, 118 V. from Smolensk, on
river Orcha. Pop. 7000.
Vladimir Monomachus is supposed
to have founded this town a.d. 1098,
but its history does not properly begin
imtil the middle of the 12th oenty.
Like other towns in the principality
of Smolensk, Roslavl was taken by the
Lithuanians. In 1493 it was taken
by the Moscovites, but in 1503 John
III. gave it back to the Lithuanians.
Later, Roslavl passed through several
hands. In 1563 it was held by the
troops of John the Terrible, who de-
fended it successfully against the
Lithuanians, whose leader. Prince
John Lytchko, was taken prisoner.
At that time the town was strongly
fortified, and its walls were defended
by many cannon and a large garrison.
The citizens of Roslavl espoused the
cause of the Pretender, and later, while
the Poles were laying siege to Smo-
lensk, they sent a deputation to King
Sigismund with an offer of surrender.
The temporary Polish governor of
Roslavl, Nadolsky, so greatly irritated
them that they impaled him. In
1613, and again in 1632, the Mos-
covites seized the town, but they were
obliged each time to restore it by
treaty to the Poles. It was finally
annexed to Russia by a treaty made
in 1686. The old martial spirit of the
inhabitants revived dimng the French
invasion, when they equipped a de-
tachment of 400 horse and foot, and
greatly harassed the French foraging
parties.
Bmansk, 145 V. E.N.E. of Orel, on
both banks of the Desnia, and on those
of 4 other small rivers, which divide
the town into 4 parts, has a Pop. of
13,000. This town is mentioned iu
chronicles of the 12th oenty., and
formed an independent principality,
which fell in 1356, on the death of its
prince, Vassili, or William. Wlien
the Mongols invaded Russia, Briansk
was seized by the lithuaniansi bat
Bnssia.
BofUe 12.—Kozelet8--Kief.
245
from time to time it was annexed to
Moscoyy, as for instance in 1491. It
was finally incorporated with Russia
in the beginning of the 17th centy.
The adherents of the first Pretender
took possession of the town, but the
citizens withstood the siege of the se-
cond false Demetrius. Under the
Empress Anne a shipbuilding yard was
established there, after a plan by Peter
the Great, for the purpose of building
vessels to be employed against Turkey ;
but the ships having proved useless,
their further construction was stopped
in 1789. In 1783 an arsenal was
founded there for the manufacture of
siege and field guns. It still exists,
and supplies about 60 guns a year, be-
sides gun-<»iTiages and other artillery
appurtenances. There are 13 churches
within the town. The Cathedral of
the Intercession of the Holy Virgin
was built in 1526, and restored in the
17th centy. In the Sacristy will be
seen a copy of the Evangelists, with
the altigraph of the Tsar Michael,
1637. There is also a convent con-
taining 2 churches, in one of which is
buried Oleg, Prince of Chemigof and
Briansk, who flourished in the 13th
centy., and afterwards took the cowl
under the name of Leonidas.
A considerable trade is carried on
here in timber, hemp, and hemp-seed
oil, produced in various parts of the
province of Orel, in which the town
is situated, and. forwarded hence to
Moscow, Riga, and St. Petersburg.
The inhabitants likewise purchase
cattle in the southern provinces, and
sell it in the capitals.
Orel, vide Rte. 13.
(For route firom Obxl to Etjbse, vide
Bte. 13.)
From Kursk the line of rail will
pass through the following towns :—
Belopoltb, on rivers Vyra and
Kryga. Pop. 12,000. Founded in 1672.
The citizenls of this town are noted for
their industry and enterprise in trade ;
wheat, salted fish, salt, pitch, and
timber being the produce in which they
deal. 10,000 to 12,000 chetverts of
wheat are annually sold here. Tallow-
melting is pursued to some extent.
KozELETB, on river Ostra. Pop.
5000. Thiswas a fortified town already
in the 17th centy., when it suffered
much from the fanaticism of the Uniates,
and from the quartering of troops. It
took an active part in the Cossack
rebellion. In the latter part of the
17th centy. it was frequently attacked
by the Poles and Cossack Hetmans.
There are 5 chs. in the town, of which
the Cath. was built by Count Rastrelli
in the reign of the Empress Elizabeth.
It contains the tomb of the mother of
a former Hetman of Little Russia —
Count Cyril Razumofski. It is situated
in the province of Chemigof, in Little
Russia, in the fertile districts of which
the traveller will observe some distinc-
tive features in the landscape, such as
the primitive windmills, and the use of
thatch instead of wood for ttie roofs of
the cottages, many of which have or-
chards attached to them. The traveller
will have observed on leaving Kursk
that he was entering the fiat country
of the ** Steppes ** — immense districts,
where he will rarely descry anything
between him and the horizon but a
straggling tree or perhaps a tumulus.
Before the construction of the railroad
there was much danger in traversing
these tracts in winter, — as in the dark
or in a snow-storm the way was easily
lost, and the bewildered wanderer would
sometimes be frozen or overwhelmed in
drift A few stations beyond Kozelets
is
KiEP. Hotels : H. d'Angleterre ;
H. de Russie; H. de TEurope (very
Mr) ; and severed others, almost equally
good. Rooms from 1 to 5 rs.
(Obs. Steamers ply twice a week in
summer between Kief and Ekaterino-
slaf, from whence travellers may proceed
to Kherson, and take boat to Odessa,
or proceed by Perekop through the
Crimea. The steamers between Nico-
pol, on the Dnieper, 'and Kherson, 3
times a-week. Fare 7*50 rs.)
History, — ^Kief, ''the Jerusalem of
Russia," with a Pop. of 70,000, is one
of the most ancient towns in Europe.
Its authentic history begins with the
arrivalof two Variagor Norman knights,
Askold and Dyr, with their comrades,
who left Novgorod to take possession
of it. With a fleet of 200 vessels the
K 2
246
Route 12.— Kkf.
Sect II,
Korman princes of Kief sailed along the
Dnieper and the Euxin^ and reached
Bvsouitium, where the knightsembraoed
Christianity. In 882 Oleg came to
Kief, with Igor, the youthful son of
Hnrik, killed treacherously the two
knights, and, taking pos8e£»ion of the
city, determined that it should be '* the
mother of Russian towns."
From that period Kief became the
capital of the Bussian principali-
ties. Olga, Regent at Kief during
the minority of the son of Igor, em-
braced Christianity at Conste^tinople
about A.D. 955. (Vide Historical
Notice.) Under the Grand Duke Vla-
dimir, who finally introduced tilie
Christian religion into Russia, and
during the reigns of several of his suc-
cessors, Kief acquired much importance,
and grew pro^rous &om its connec-
tion with the Byzantine empire. An-
cient writers atfirm that in the 11th
cent, there were no fewer than 400
churches within its walls. In the year
1017 a fire almost entirely consumed it
The death of Yaroslaf (1054) led to
intestine commotions and wars, which
more than once caused the city to
change maaters. In 1240 the Tartars
took it and sacked it. In 1320 Gue-
demin, Duke of Lithuania, drove out
the Tartars, and annexed the whole of
that part of the country to Lithuania.
In 1496 and 1500 the Tartars again
ravaged the Ul-feited city. The sub-
sequent fate of Kief will be best
described in a short history of the S.W.
provinces, of which it is now the seat
of government.
Volhynia, Kief, and Podolia have a
Pop. of about 5 millions. Volhynia
lies in the basin of the Prypet river, and
is very fertile in its southern districts,
which were once covered with castles
and flourishing cities connected with
the history of Poland, Jitomir is the
only town that has risen since the an-
nexation of Volhynia to the empire of
Russia. Podolia is the country com-
prised between the Bug and the middle
part of the Dniester. From time im-
memorial this has been a land flowing
with milk and honey. The southern
portion of the province of Kief is almost
equally fertile. Beetroot is very much
cultivated there, and many thousands
of the population are engaged in ex-
tracting sugar from it.
This was anciently called the Uk-
raine, or border country, and beyond it
were the uninhabited Steppes by which
the Mongols advanced to overrun
Europe. The semi-nomadic population
of the Ukraine were early called Cos-
sacks. From the princes of the house of
Rurik these provinces passed into the
possession of Lithuania and Poland,
after having been devastated by the
Tartars in 1238. At the union of
LitJjuania with Poland (1386) the
whole of "Southern Ruthenia" was
annexed to Poland. Polish nobles
obtained large grants of unpopu-
lated lands in Volhynia and Podolia,
and built castles, under the sha-
dows of which rose towns and vil-
lages. By the union of Lublin (1569)
the three provinces of Volhynia, Po-
dolia, and Kief were recognised as con-
stituent portions of Poland. But they
were later ceded in part to Russia,
which, however, by the treaty of Viazma,
in 1634, recognised the right of Poland
to Smolensk, Chemigof, and the whole
of the Ulonine on both banks of the
Dnieper. The Cossacks soon after
became very troublesome. They were
continually undertaking expeditions
against the Turks and the Tartars,
and laying Poland open to the imputa-
tion of a want of good foith and a dis-
regard of treaties. Recruited from the
dregs of Polish society, and scorned by
the Polish aristocracy, the Cossacks
were very democratic in spirit.
Religious dissension, caused by the
conversion of a portion of the popumion
of the southern provinces to Catholic-
ism, gave them (the Cossacks) another
cause of disaffection. Under the leader-
ship of an ambitious and clever Polish
noUe, Bogdan Khmelnitski, whom they
elected Hetman, they rose in 1648, and
devastated Volhynia, Podolia, and the
Ukraine during 20 years. The Het-
man, unable to resist the Polish arms,
became a vassal of the Khan of the
Crimea, and, finding his protection in-
sufficient, swore allegiance to the Tsai
Alexis of Moscow in 1657.
By the Treaty of Andrussy (1667),
Boute U.—Kief.
247
Poland and theTsar agreed to divide the
Ukraine into two parts, the former re-
taining the Ukraine on the right bank
of the Dnieper, and Mofloovy taking the
Ukraine on its left bank and the town
of Kief. Southern Euthenia remained
in the possession of the Bepublic of
Poland until the second partition in
1793, when the provinces of Volhynia,
Podolia, and Kief passed finally under
the Bussian sceptre.
Topography, &c — ^Although deprived
of much of its ancient grandeur, the
city of Kief is, nevertheless, one of the
most remarkable towns in Russia.
Picturesquely situated on the right
bank of the Dnieper, or Boristhenes,
it is divided into three principal parts,
the "Old Town," the ** Pecherskoi,"
also called the " New Fort," and the
•*Podole," the "Low Town," or
** Town of the Vale." Each of these
has its own fortificatioos. The banks
of the Dnieper are here lofty, and on
two steep hills are situated the Old
Town and the Pecherskoi division, witU
their monastery, fortress, and bastions,
separated from each other by a deep
ravine, while the Podole occupies the
space between the hills and the river,
where the commercial affairs of the
town are transacted. The site of the Old
Town, in remote ages, was the Sclavo-
nian Pantheon. There the worshippers
of Perune, Horsa, Lado, and otlier
idolatrous deities, rendered homage to
their savage gods ; and there the rough
Christian Vladimir erected the church
of St. Basil (still standing), on the spot
long decorated by the temple of Perune,
the Russian Jupiter. At the northern
end of the high land on which the Old
Town stands is part of another church
that was likewise erected by Vladimir.
The immense earthen walls of this very
ancient part of Kief enclose, within a
small space, several churches, and the
Cathedral of St. Sophia. This magni-
ficient structure was built by the Grand
Duke Yaroslaf in 1037, on me spot and
in commemoration of his victory over
the Petchenegans. It is replete with
religious and historical recollections.
On the pillan which support the cupola
frescoes have lately been brought to
light representing depfurted members
of the Uniat hierarchy, wearing the
Oatholic toosure, with close-shaven
chins. The church of St. Sophia was
in possession of the Uniats between
1590 and 1633, when some of the fres-
coes on its waUs were covered with
whitewash, and thus preserved from
the effect of time. There are some
curious frescoes along the walls of the
stairs leading to the galleries, descrip-
tive of a boar-hunt and other sports,
intermixed with drawings of musicians,
dancers, and jugglers; all apparently
cotemporaneous with the building of
the church. Over the high altar is a
picture of the Holy Virgin, in mosaic-
work, by Byzantine artists. The Lord's
Supper is also depicted in mosaic on
the eastern wsdl of the ch., and there
are many other specimens of the same
work, more or less in a good state of
preservation, and all of the liighest
interest, considering their extreme
antiquily.
Hie marble tomb of Yarodaf stands
in the chapel dedicated to St. Vladimir.
It is curiously carved. The principal
relics in the ch. of St. Sophia aro
those of St. Macarius, Metropolitan of
Kief A.D. 1495, decapitated by the Tar-
tars in 1497. The church vessels and
books are not very remarkable. Many
princes of Kief lie buried here.
There are many other churches of
ancient origin in this venerable town.
We can only mention the ch. called
the Desiatinnaya, supposed to have
been built a.d.* 989, by St. Vladimir,
and that of St. George, erected about
1052. A small monument is erected
close to it over the ruins of an ancient
monastery of St. Irine. The remains
of an old wall are carefully preserved
as marking the site of a gate of gilt
bronze by which the town was ap-
proached in the days of Yaroslaf.
The palace of the Metropolitan is
close to the cathedral, and shaded by
venerable trees. Some remarkable re-
mains of ancient art are preserved
in it.
The Pecherskoi Monastery, or Kievo-
Pecherskaya Lavra, the first in rank
in Russia, and the most ancient in
origin, having been built in 1055,
stands within the immense fortress of
248
Boule 12. — Pechershoi Monastery.
Sect. II.
Pechersk, and gives its name to that
portion of Kief, which, from the eastern
approach, has an exceedingly striking
and picturesque effect. The churches
and cathedral of the Old Town, grouped
with those of this monastery, all gilt and
coloured, and the massive fortress, walls,
and hastions mantling the heights,
seize at once upon the traveller's atten-
tion at the close of his lahorious
journey.
The entrance to the monastery is by
a splendid gate, ornamented by full-
length representations of St. Anthony
and St Tbeodosius, the two first abbots.
The cathedral, dedicated to the Ascen-
sion of the Virgin, is reached by a fine
alley, on either side of which are the
cells of the brotherhood. The interior
of the cathedral is in an elegant style
of architecture, and on its walls beau-
tiful representations of scenes taken
from Scripture history are many and
various; it is also resplendent with
gilding, gold and silver, applied to all
decorative purposes in the building,
and on the shrines, the most remark-
able of which is that of the Virgin, over
the doors which open into the Most
Holy Place. The lights constantly
burning about the church, and the pro-
fusion of them about this particular
shrine at the Vesper service, are in-
sufficient to show to advantage the
richly-decorated ceiling. The seven
turrets of this church, with their gilt
cupolas, connected by golden chains,
and the superb belfry, which stands
alone, and is upwards of 300 ft. high,
add much to the external splendour of
the place. It may be mentioned that
the Russian annalist, Nestor, lived and
wrote his Chronicle in this convent.
Among the numerous other diurches
in the enclosure, that of St. Nicholas
is the most worthy of a stranger's in-
spection. Within the walls of the
fortress of Peohersk are the barracks
of the garrison, tibe magazine, arsenals,
and the houses of the officers. Near
the fortress is a bazaar ; and the quarter
of the town behind it, which is regularly
laid out, is partly inhabited by Jews.
The best part of the town, containing
the residence of the Grovemor and other
persons of distinction, shaded by fine
old trees, is north of the Jewish neigh-
bourhood.
The renowned catacombs of St. An-
thony, the founder of the monastery,
are excavations in the precipitous cliff
which overhangs the river; his re-
mains are therein preserved at the
extremity of the labyrinth. This
passage is about 6 ft. high, but ex-
tremdy narrow, and blackened by the
torches of numerous visitors. The
number of bodies here preserved is
about 80, ranged in niches on both
sides of the passage, in open coffins,
enveloped in wrappers of cloth and
silk, ornamented with gold and silver.
The stiffened hands of the saints are
so placed as to receive the devotional
kisses of the pilgrims ; and on their
breasts are written their names, and
sometimes a short record of their vir-
tuous deeds. These saints had died
a natural death ; but the most distress-
ing part of the scene is the row of
small windows, behind which the
martyrs had built themselves into a
stone wall, leaving onjy those aper-
tures at which to receive their food.
The catacombs of Tbeodosius are to
the south of those of St. Anthony,
and are on a much smaller scale and
simpler plan. They contain only 45
bodies, which are not so highly vene-
rated as those in the other catacomb.
The pilgrims to this monastery and
the catacombs amount annually to as
many as 50,000, or more; some &om
one part of the widely-extended Russian
empire, some from another. A few will
toil even all the weary way from Kam-
chatka, collecting on the road the ofier-
ings of those who are either not able
or not sufficiently devout to undertake
the journey themselves. A short dis-
tance from the road which leads from
Pechersk to the Podole, the traveller
should notice a handsome monument,
that marks the fountain in which the
children of Vlaiimir the Great were
baptized. It is a stone obelisk, 150 ft
high ; and close to its base is a wooden
crucifix, bearing, in Hebrew, Greek,
and Latin, the words Jestts of Nazareth,
the King of (he Jews, The administra-
tion of the baptismal rite to the Russian
people, at the period of the conversion
Boiite 12. — Berdichef- — Vinrdtsa,
249
of their renowned Grand Duke, took
place very near the spot on which this
monument stands.
The Podole portion of Kief is well
and regularly laid out^ interspersed
with trees and gardens, and forms a
strong contrast to the old parts of
the city, where, at almost every turn,
the picturesque presents itself in great
variety.
The University of St. Vladimir,
founded 1833, is frequented by about
500 students. The library contains
107,000 vols., and the collections are
equally complete.
The Nicholas Suspension Bridge
over the Dnieper is one of the greatest
modern triumphs of engineering art.
It was built between 1848 and 1855,
by an Englishman, Mr. Charles Vig-
nolles. Its length is 6755 ft., and it
cost about 375,0002.
The railroad from Kief to Balta and
Odessa will be ready in the autumn of
1869. It will pass through the follow-
ing towns : —
Beedichzp, 194 V. from Kief, on
river Gnilopiat. Pop. 53,000.
History, — ^In 1320 the land on which
the town is situated was given by
Guedemin, Prince of Lithuania, to
Tyskewicz, one of his subjects. At
the close of the 16th centy. Tyskewicz,
the then Vo^vod of Kief, built here a
castle, and in 1627 founded a monas-
tery of Carmelites, to whom later he
bequeathed his castle. As Berdichef
was subject to the inroads of Tartars
and Cossacks, the monks built a wall
and dug a ditch round the monastery.
In 1647 Khmelnitzky, Hetman of the
Little Bussians, took Berdichef and
pillaged the monastery. The monks
only returned in 1663, and commenced
a lawsuit against the lord of the soil,
who dispute their rights to the monas-
tery. Their claim was admitted by a
tribunal in 1717. In 1737 the monks
began to build over the crypt which
their predecessors had constructed
about 1632. The superstructure was
finished in 1754, when Pope Benedict
jy. presented a valuable crown to the
ancient image of the Virgin, given to
the monks b^ Tyskewicz in 1627, In
1700 the Hetman Mazeppa confined
the celebrated Cossack rebel Palei in
the crypt, which is still called after
the name of the latter. King Stanis-
laus Augustus permitted the holding
of ten annual fairs at Berdichef, in
1765, from which date the present
commercial important5e of the town
takes its rise. In 1768 Casimir Pu-
lavski, chief of the confederates, after
taking Bar, marched on Berdichef and
fortified himself within the monastery
with 700 men, and only surrendered
by capitulation after a siege of 25
days. The town now belongs to the
Kaidziwill family, who inherited it by
marriage. Berdichef is only second to
Kief in the extent of its trade, which
is entirely in the hands of Jews (nearly
51,000). They purchase enormous
quantities of goods at the fairs and
seaports, and sell them wholesale
and retail in the provinces of Kief,
Podolia, and Volhynia. Markets are
held twice a-week, and there are 5
fairs during the year ; 14 (26) January,
in March, 12 (24) June, 15 (27)
August, and 1 (13) November. Those
of June and August are the most
considerable. The traders of Berdi-
chef turn over about 40 millions of
roubles during the year. The prin-
cipal articles of trade are cotton and
silk goods, glass-ware, hardware, salt,
fish, cattle, wheat, and beetroot sugar.
Vinnitsa, on river Bug. Pop.
10,000. '
This town, now in the province of
Podolia, was founded on the 1. bank
of the Bog in the 14th centy., and was
anciently protected by 2 castles, of
which no traces remain. It was fre-
quently attacked by the Cossacks and
Tartars, particularly during the rebel-
lion of the Little Bussians, under
Khmelnitsky. In the 18th centy. the
inhab. defended themselves against
the Gaidamaks, or Cossack robbers, by
shutting themselves up within the
high walls of the Jesuits' CoUege,
founded in 1649,1; by Wladislaus IV.
The walls are still extant, but the
building was devoted between 1813
and 1847 to the purposes of a school,
and later it was converted into a mili-
tary hospital, The town was annexed
250
Boute 12. — Odessa,
Sect. II.
to Russia, together with Podolia, in
1796. A Catholic monastery of Capu-
cins, surrounded by a high wall, and
a 'Russian oonTent, founded in 1635
are among the sights of the town.
A few stations beyond Vinnitsa the
train will reach the Balta and Odessa
line.
Odessa, on N. coast of Black Sea.
Lat. 46^ 28'. Pop. 119,000.
Hotels, — H. de Londres, on the
Boulevard, the best ; H. de 8t. Peters-
burg ; H. de la Nouvelle Russie ; H.
de TEurope.
CZwftg.— Odessa, formerly the English
Club ; the Russian Steam Navigation
Club; German Club (the resort of
merchants) ; and the Harmonic, where
amateur theatricals are frequently
]ierformed in German.
CommissionerB. — Travellers should
secure the services of a Jew ** factor,"
or commissioner, with whom accounts
should be settled daily.
Vehicles. — Drojkis are to be found
at every corner ; they have generally
2 horses; the fare is about 40 copecks
the hour.
History of the Town. — In the earliest
ages settlements or seaports existed
on the N. coast of the Euxine, between
the Dnieper and the Dniester. One
of these was called Odessus, after
a Greek town in Thrace, and was
situated at a short distance N.E. of
the modem city. The great migra-
tion of peoples which took place in the
3rd and 4lJi centuries destroyed those
settlements and their trade, and for
nearly ten centuries there is no axicount
of their being re-established. It is
supposed that in the 9th centy. that
part of the coast of the Euxine was in
the possession of a Slavonian tribe.
Somewhat later, when the Genoese
began to visit the Pontus Euxinus,
they gave the present site of Odessa
the name of "La Ginestra," probably
from the circumstance of its being
overgrown with the genista tindoria,
or dyer's broom; but they marked no
settlements as existing there on their
charts. From the 14th centy. the
coast of the Black Sea between the
Dnieper and the Dniester was claimed
V the Pjrmoes of Lithuania. In 1396
Olgerd, a Lithuanian general, defeated
on that coast three Tartar chiefs, one
of whom, called Bek-Hadji, had but
a short time previously founded on the
present site of Odessa a fortress which
he named Hadji-Bey. First the Lithua-
nians, then the Poles, held possession
of the coast imtil the first part of the
16th centy., when Hadji-Bey and its
neighbourhood fell under the dominion
of &e Tartars. Polish and Lithuanian
merchants were, however, permitted
to continue their trade there, and to
raise salt from the lakes in the vicinity.
When the Turks began to establish
themselves on the Black Sea, they
placed garrisons and raised fortifi-
cations at several points along the
coast Thus in 1764, while making
ready for a war with Russia, they
built the fortress of Yani-Dunya, at
Hadji-Bey. In 1769 the Zaporogian
Cossacks burnt the suburbs of Hadji-
Bey, but having no cannon were un-
able to take the fortress. The Treaty
of Kinardji secured it to the Turks,
who found it necessary to strengthen
the works. When Russia went to
war again with Turkey in 1787, the
" Ataman '* of the Black Sea Cossacks
attacked Hadji-Bey, and set fire to its
stores, but the fortress only feU in
1789, to Brigadier de Ribas, who com-
manded the vanguard of the corps of
General Gudovitch, then engaged in
making a reconnaissance at the lower
course of the Dniester. On the 14th
(26th) September, 1789, De Ribas led
his troops to the assault under a heavy
fire both from the citadel and from the
Turkish ships in the roads. In a
quarter of an hour the left face of the
fortress was penetrated, and the gar-
rison yielded. By the Treaty of Jassy,
1791, Hadji-Bey, with the whole of
the province of Otchakof, was annexed
to Russia.
A new fortress was founded at
Hadji-Bey in 1793, and m 1794 its
builder, De Ribas, obtained permission
to establish a mercantile city in its
vicinity. The construction of the town
and harbour was intrusted by Cathe-
rine the Great to De Ribas and De
Volant, who employed for that purpose
the troops in garrison at Hadji-Bey.
Bussia.
Boute 12.— Odessa.
251
Greeks and Albanians were attracted
to the spot, so that in 1795 Hadji-Bey
had a population of more than 2000
souls in addition to its garrison, and it
was then named Odessa, after the
ancient colony already mentioned. In
1796 the new port was entered by 86
foreign ships, and its commercial im-
portance began to adyance rapidly.
The accession of the Emperor Paul
put a stop to the works, and De Hibas
was recalled. In 1800, however, the
privileges of Odessa were confiimed,
and a sum of 250,000 roubles was ad-
vanced from the Treasury for ihe pur-
pose of finishing the construction of
the port. The Emperor Alexander
renewed the privileges for a term of
25 years, freed the town from the
quartering of troops — then a great
hardship, — allotted one-t^ith' of the
customs duties to the maintenance
and improvement of the harbour, and
caused two new piers to be built
But the prosperity of Odessa is chiefly
due to the talents and energy of Duke
Emanuel de Bichelieu, a French emi-
grant who was made its first governor
in 1830. Eleven years later, when he
was succeeded by Count Langeron, the
population had grown from 9000 to
25.000.
The principal streets were laid out
and lighted by him. He built the
quarantine (in the old fortress), the
mole, warehouses for foreign goods,
and a theatre. With every opportunity
of enriching himself^ the duke is said
to have left Odessa with a small port-
manteau containing his uniform and
two shirts, the greater part of his in-
come having been disbursed in reliev-
ing the distresses of immigrants who
generally arrived in a great state of
destitution. His amiable and chari-
table qualities endeared him to all
classes, and his departure was greatly
regretted.
In 1817 Odessa obtained the privi-
leges of a free port for 30 years. In
1822, however, it having become
known that the freedom was about to
be abolished, the foreign merchants
were on the point of quitting the town,
when the obnoxious order was rescind-
ed, and Ckrant Langeron, the governor.
who had advocated the measiu-e, was
dismissed . The town owes much of its
present greatness to Prince Woronzoff,
who came to reside at Odessa as Go-
vernor-General of New Bussia in 1823.
He .caused " the Duke's Garden " to be
laid out, and a monster staircase on
arches to be built from the end of the
Boulevard to the shore under the cliff.
Many educational and charitable insti-
tutions were founded during his tenure
of office, the harbour was deepened,
and many other useful works were
begun and completed.
On the 10th (22nd) April, 1854,
Odessa was bombarded during 12
hrs. by an Anglo-French squmiron.
The Tiger frigate went ashore on
the 12th May near Odessa, and was
set on fire by the shore batteries. The
officers and crew were made prisoners
of war, but not before they had
burnt their colours and papers. The
flag exhibited in one of the clis. at St.
Petersburg as that of the Tiger be-
longed merely to one of its boats. The
freedom of the port was abolished at
the outbreak of the Crimean war, and
the town now enjoys an annual sub-
sidy in lieu thereof! In 1861 gas was
introduced, and in 1866-67 Mr. Fur-
ness, an English contractor, paved the
town very efficiently. Owing to the
energy of Baron Ungern Sternberg,
the railway was opened to Balta in
1866.
The imports of foreign goods at
Odessa amounted between 1861 and
1864 to the annual value of 10^ mil-
lion roubles, while the exports were
officially valued during the same
period at 30} millions. Wheat is the
principal article of export (17} mil-
lions). It is brought to Odessa in
bullock carts, in barges down the
Dniester, Dnie^ier, and the Bug, and
by the Balta rly. Wool is also ex-
ported in considerable quantities (8}
millions). The shipments of tallow
are valued at a little less than a mil-
lion roubles, and those of linseed at 21
millions. The port is annually visited
bv 1300 to 1500 vessels, of which
about 200 are under British colours.
Topography y Ac— Should the tra-
veller have reached Odessa from the
N 3
262
Boute 12.— Odma.
.n.
interior of Eiissia, he will be struck
with the bright and European aspect
of the great mercantile city, which,
built principally of stone, is totally
unlike any other Bussian town. Fa-
voured, however, as Odessa is by its
position on the sea, it is bordered on
the left side by a dreary steppe of so
intractable a soil that trees and shrubs,
with the exception of the acacia,
rarely attain any size, and in many
places will not even live. A narrow
slip along the sea-shore is about the
only oasis of vegetation in the neigh-
bourhood of the cihr. The climate is
very unequal, and, the town being
built on a limestone cliff of a very
crumbling nature, the dust during
summer is almost insupportable. There
is sdso another and a greater evil — ^the
want of fresh water ; the greater part,
indeed nearly all, of this necessary of
life is brought from a considerable
distance through an aqueduct. Arte-
sian borings have been made to a
depth of 600 ft., but the water in the
wells is rather brackish. Fuel is very
scarce and dear.
The principal promenade is the
BotUevardy where a military band per-
forms several times a week during the
summer, when a stranger may see the
^lite of the place. There is in the
centre of this walk a bronze staitue of
the Duke de Richelieu ; he is looking
towards the sea, and &cing the mon-
ster staircase already mentioned. A
mcmument to Prince Woronzoff will be
seen in the square next to the Cathe-
dral, in which he is buried. His house,
a princely mansion, is on the cliff at
the end of the boulevard.
At the other extremity of this is the
Exchange, The Theatre, an elegant
stone structure, witii a peristyle sup-
ported by columns, is in the large
square. Italian operas and Bussian
and Frendi plays are performed in it
throughout the year. There are 13
Busso-Greek chs. at Odessa, and no
fewer than 20 Jewish synagogues and
schools.
The Cathedral stands conspicuously
in the centre of the town, and in the
middle of an immense square sur-
rounded by trees and by a balustrade,
in which are four gates corresponding
to the four cardinal points. This ch.
is of considerable size ; it is built in the
form of a cross, and is surmounted by
a large cupola. Two of its facades
present fine porticoes, each with a row
of columns. The interior is very chaste,
spacious, and elegant, and its floor is
formed of white and grey marble.
Among the principal buildings in the
town may be mentioned the University
of New Busgia, established 1865. This
was formerly the Bichelieu Lyceum,
founded by the duke. It is a very ex-
tensive edifice, and in the form of an
oblong square, divided by a line of
buildmg m the middle. Some of the
granaries are worthy of notice ; they
are remarkably well built of stone.
That of Sabanaky, on the ravine, is of
immense extent, and has an imposing
appearance from the streets looking
towards the Quarantine, which was
formerly the fortress. The Greek and
other Bazaars merit attention, parti-
cularly to a person landing here ; they
afford opportunities for observing local
and national peculiarities.
Odessa is rich in public institutions,
each as sohodlsejid hospitals. The Pub-
lic Library, close to the statue of Biche-
lieu, is small, but well chosen. The Jlfu-
seum contains many objects of antiquity
from the sites of ancient Greek colo-
nies in this part of ^the world, par-
ticularly from those of Olbia, Kher-
sonesus, Panticapsdum, &c. &c. Some
of the vases and medals are worthy of
observation, and a gold one of the time
of Alexander is in remarkable pre-
servation. And last, though not least
in interest, is a japanned flat candle-
stick, once the property of the philan-
thropic Howard ; it is preserved with
great care. The sight of this relic
will call up a host of feelinss connected
with the remembrance of his fieite, and
emotions of admiration and respect for
his imwearied exertions in the cause
of humanity. Howard's last words to
his friend Priestman are character-
istic : — '* Let no monument or monu-
mental inscription whatsoever mark
the spot where I am buried; lay me
quietly in the earth, place a sun-dial
over my grave, and let me be forgot-
Eussia. Boute 13. — Moscow to Odessa : Serpukhof,
ten." And truly this remarkable man
seems to be forgotten. His remains
lie mouldering in the steppe near
Kierson, and those who pass by his
tomb are alike ignorant of his yurtues
and his name.
Odessa enjoys an Etablissement de
Bains, situated at the foot of the Boule-
vard, and miineTal waters are sold at
an establishment in the town garden.
The public daughtering-kouaes are on a
large scale. Many thousands of cattle
are there boiled down for the tallow.
It is a singular, but not a yeiy agree-
able spectacle. A drive to the race-
course and to the villas on the sea-
coast should be imdertaken by the
traveller. About 2 m. out of town is
a fine country-house and garden which
once belonged to a Goimt Bazumofski,
who, having quarrelled with his next
of kin, purposely squandered his for-
tune in excavating vast subterranean
galleries on his estate. It stands next
to a public garden which was once
Eichelieu's, and its present proprietor
is Mr. Zarifi, a Greek merchant at
Odessa, whose permission to visit the
garden will be easily obtained. An-
other place of resort out of town, and
particularly in the eveninff, is the
country house that once belonged to
Count Langeron, Music, fire-works,
&c., are provided there for the enter-
tainment of the public. There is also
a Botanical Garden outside the town,
but, as said before, the difficulties of
soil, drought, and firost are highly in-
jurious to the growth of plants. Melons
are raised in the gardens in the en-
virons of the city; they are of the
most delicious flavour, and very cheap.
Divine Service.— -Theie is no Eng-
lish ch. at Odessa, but Divine service is
performed on Sundays at a private
house, the clergyman being supported
partly by the contributions of the Bri-
tish inhabitants, who are, however,
very few in number.
Consulate. — ^A British C5onsul-Gene-
ral resides at Odessa.
253
ROUTE 13.
MOSCJOW TO ODESSA, BY TULA, OEEL,
KUBSK, KHARKOFF, POI/TAVA, KUEMEN-
C'UUK, ELIZA VETGBAD, AND BALTA.
[A great portion of this route may
now be made by rail. Travellers must
inquire before leaving Moscow how far
the lines of railway have been pushed,
and they can then decide whether it
wUl be best to proceed byway of Kief,
or to take the more direct route by
way of Kharkofi*, Poltava, Kremen-
chuk, Elizavetgrad, and Balta, even at
the cost and fatigue of making several
stages by post. Until the Southern
lines are completed, it is impossible to
give more than a sketeh of the princi-
pal towns through which they will
p«.ss, especially since the fares, the
time-tables, and other conditions of
the sections already opened will bo
liable to great changes.j
Serpukhof, 92 v. from Moscow Stai .
Buffet. Town very prettUy situated.
A great manufacturmg centre, espe-
cially of cotton prints. Pop. 10,500.
Inn pretty good. From the earliest
ages Serpukhof belonged to the princes
of Moscow, but the first authentic
mention of its name occurs in 1328.
In 1382 it was pUlaged by Tokhtamysh
on his march to Moscow, and in 1410
it was again sacked, by the Prince of
Lithuania. Prince John Belski, de-
ceived by Khan Bevlet Ghirey, per-
mitted the troops of the latter, number-
ing 100,000, to approach Serpukhof,
which was at that time occupied by
John the Terrible and his Opritchniks
(vide Historical Notice), who there-
upon retired to Kolomna, near Moscow,
while Prince Belski, to avoid the con-
sequences of his error, fled to Lithu-
ania. The town walls, which will be
seen on an elevation, were built in 1556
254
Boute IS.— Tula.
SeciU.
and have a circumference of about 500
fms.
Tula. — 181 v. from Moscow. Pop.
10,500. Hotels : London, ^posite Go-
vernor's House; and St. Petersburg ;
both indifferent.
Tula, the Bussian Birmingham and
Sheffield combined, is situated on the
small Upa river. It is famed for its
manufactories of fire-arms, and gene-
rally for its hardware.
■rile province in which it is situated
was in the earliest ages the battle-field
of the Slavonians and their enemies
the Ehazars, Pechenegians, and, lastly,
the Tartars. Hence it is that it was
but little i)opulated, and its towns
have preserved but few records. Tula
is first mentioned as a city in a treaty
of peace between the princes of Mos-
cow and Kiazan in 1383, to the latter
of whom it belonged until the first
part of the 16th centy. The last prince
of Biazan having, however, been sum-
moned to Moscow in 1516 and kept
there as a prisoner, all his territories
were annexed to Muscovy. In the
latter part of the 16th centy. Tula was
the centre of a line of defence erected
against the Tartars — a line which, on
one side, passed through Pronsk to
Biazan and Nijni-Novgorod, and on
the other through Msensk and Kara-
cheff to Briansk.
Throughout the whole of the 16th
centy. the Crimean Tartars continually
devastated the southern borders of
Bussia, and frequently laid waste to
the lands which now constitute the
province of Tula. In the year 1552,
more particularly, Devlet Ghirey be-
sieged the town, assisted by the
Janissaries of the . Sultan, but was
forced to retreat. In the early part
of the 17th centy. Tula was the re-
sort of robbers and criminals, who
were permitted to escape thither in
order that they might populate the
province, and defend it against in-
vaders. A celebrated band of these
outlaws was the first to join the ranks
of Otrepief, the false Demetrius, in
1605, who for a time made Tula his
capital. Here he received the Ambas-
ladors of the Council of Moscow, and
hither were brought the Treasury and
the raiment of the princes of Moscow.
On the death of Otrepief, when a report
of his miraculous preservation was
spread, the citizens of Tula marched in
1606 on Moscow, but were driven back
with the loss of their leader, Pashkoff.
For some time Tula was unsuccessfully
besieged by the Moscovite troops. At
last the Tsar Basil appeared before its
walls in person, but, still meeting with
effectual resistance, the besieging army
conceived the idea of reducing the
garrison by inundating it with the
waters of the Upa. A dam was accord-
ingly constructed below the town, and
in a short time the river submerged all
but the highest parts of it, and the
inhabitants were obliged to come out
with offers of submission. The prin-
cipal rebels were executed. Ileika, an
impostor, who gave himself out as
Peter, son of the Tsar Theodore, was
hanged near the Danilof monastery
(vide Moscow). But the peace thus
restored was not of long duration.
Other lawless bands succeSied, led by
the second pretender, known as " the
thief of Tushin." They tortured and
killed the inhabitants for their loyalty
to the Tsar.
flJThe last military event in connec-
ti^i with the history of this unfortu-
nate town occurred in 1613, when it
was burnt to the ground by the Poles.
Its peaceful history only commences
with the reign of the Tsar Michael.
It is time, however, to mention that
the town of which the history has been
thus sketched existed some 10 m. to
the N. of the present site of Tula.
Nothing remains of the old city, and
the new one dates only from the be-
ginning of the 18th centy., when Peter
the Great turned his attention to the
mineral riches and industrial develop-
ment of this part of his dominions.
Although the more recent rise of Tula
to the position of chief town of a pro-
vince is due to the skill of its inhabit-
ants in the art of gun-making, yet the
first impulse to their industry was
given so far back as the 16th centy.,
when iron-ore was discovered in the
village of Dedilova, 20 m. from Tula.
But for a considerable time the iron
fiussia.
Boute IB.— Tula.
256
produced at Dedilova continued to he
almost useless for the purpose of
making weapons of war, and conse-
quently iron was imported from
Sweden, and gun-harrels, swords, and
guns from £^gland, Germany, and
particularly from Holland.
The Dutch were the first to esta-
blish iron foundries and works in
Russia. In 1553, Akema, a Dutch-
man, and Marselius, from Hamburg,
founded several iron-works and^a gun-
factory, and in 1633, Winnis, another
Dutclunan, established a foundry, and
worked the metals by means of water-
power, near the site of the old town.
More than 600 artificers were brought
■from foreign countries, to teach the
Bussians the art of making guns,
swords, locks, &c. Successive charters
confirmed and extended the privileges
granted to the manufactories, and
from 1613 the Tula gunsmiths began
to work exclusively for the State.
Peter the Great caused a great num-
ber of young men to be sent thither,
and to be kept at work imder the
strictest discipline. Small works were
erected by the Government about 1707,
but they were burned down in 1711.
In 1712 works on a larger scale, still
extant, were commenced, and finish '^d
in 1718, with the assistance of the
Swedish prisoners taken by Peter, who
by the year 1720 had 1160 gunsmiths
at work, producing annually 15,000
muskets, 2000 pairs of pistols, and 1200
pikes. Twelve years previously, or
in i685, the number of artificers was
only 122, and they did not make more
than 244 arquebuses and culverins,
many of which may be seen in the
Arsenal Museum at St. Petersburg,
and in the Treasury at Moscow. But
the death of Peter the Great was a
blow to the trade, from which it only
recovered in the reign of Alexander I.,
when tlie Government arms-factory
was made to produce about 13,000
various weapons per month (1813-
1814).
like almost all Eussian towns, Tula
has suffered frequently from fires, and
particularly in 1834, when a large por-
tion of its inhab. were reduced to
beggary. The new small-arms fJActory,
which is well worth seeing, was
erected under the superintendence of
Mr. Trewheller, an Englishman, who
made the establishment one of the
first in Europe. The lathes are turned
by water, which runs through iron
cylinders large enough for a man to
walk in nearly upright ; and by meaps
of a warming apparatus, the working
of the lathes is not interrupted by any
degree of frost. In addition to the
government factory, there are many
manufactories of sporting guns, and a
great number of locksmiths, the total
number of establishments where iron
or other metal is worked being about
200. Large quantities of cutlery are
made at Tula, and an immense trade
is carried on in brass tea-urns, used
almost in every Bussian house. The
Tula ware of nieUo, and its silver
snuff-boxes, &c., have long been cele-
brated in Europe.
The recent discovery of coal in
the province of Tula and the con-
tinued richness of its iron-mines pro-
mise much for the prosperity of the
town, especially since it has been
made a station on the Great South-
ern Railroad. There is nothing to
interest the traveller in Tula beyond
its manufactories, excepting perhaps
the old walls of the Kremlin, parallel
with the rt. bank of the Upa. They
were constructed in 1520, in place of
an old wooden fortification erected
1509. They are built partly of stone
and partly of brick. Catherine II.
caused the walls to be surrounded by
a dry ditch and a glacis, one fathom
deep and 2 fms. broad. The wall
and " the towers, then very much
decayed, were at the same time re-
paired.
Those who wish to study the coal
measures of the Moscow basin should
make an excursion from Tula in the
direction of the village of Malefka,
in the district of Epifan. There is a
post road to Epifan, and from that
little town to Malefka the distance is
about 25 versts. The village belongs
to Count Bobrinsky. The colliery of
Malefka, which is superintended by
Dr. Leo, a mining engineer from Ger-
many, is now of considerable extent.
256
Boute 13.— Ord.
Sect. II.
It will afford great interest to the
geologist, on account of its limestones,
which are rich in very peculiar petri-
factions, {RhyneoneUa panderi, Betzia
tidemis, Spirifer inftatotj sp, amleatus,
sp. ano8 offiy Produdus paitdeH, pr,
faUax, Miehdinia romca, &c. The
limestones are considered by Bussian
geologists to be Upper Devonian.
They lie immediately under the slate
clays of the coal formation, and their
fauma is a transition from the De-
vonian faima to that of mountain lime-
stone.
Obel, 339 V. 8.W, from Moscow.
Pop. 43,000. Junction with Riga,
Diinaburg, and Witebsk Rly. Hotds :
there are two hotels at Orel, superior
to those at Tula. The first is the old
Posting-house in Karachef-street, and
the other in Briansk-street. The
latter is pretty fair. Talysen's chain-
bres gamie9 are much frequented by
the nobility of the province. There is
no taMe d'hStej but excellent dinners
may be had at the Nobility Club
House. Orel is the chief town of
the province bearing the same name,
and is a very important centre of
trade. Its connection by rail with
Riga, to be* effected by 1870, will still
further increase the advantages of its
position. It is situated on the slopes
of a somewhat considerable ravine
at the June, of the small river Orlik
with the Oka, which here becomes
navigable.
Founded by John the Terrible,
about 1565, for the defence of the
Grand Duchy of Moscow against the
Tartars, it was removed from its ori-
ginal site on the Orlik to its present
position in 1679, after a great &re. Its
reconstruction was superintended by
Jacob Van Frosten, who also built an
earthen waU and towers, of which no
traces remain. During the troubles
at Moscow in the early part of the
17th centy., Orel took the side of
the rebels, and in 1605 a party that
had declared for the Tsar was seized
by the adherents of the Pretender, and
cast into prison. In 1611, however,
when the Poles attempted to place
their Prince, Wladislaus, on the throne
of Muscovy, the citizens of Orel swore
allegiance to the Tsar Michael, which
led to the town being sacked by the
Poles. But Orel 1ms suffered less
from its enemies than from conflagra-
tions, of which the more severe took
place in 1673, 1848, and 1858. In the
latter year more than 600 houses,
several churches, and a convent were
destroyed, together with an immense
quantity of wheat and hemp.
The town at present contains 9
churches of the Russo-Greek faith, of
which the cathedral, dedicated to the
Apostles Peter and Paul, was founded
in 1794, at the cost of the nobles of the
province, in commemoration of the co-
ronation of the Emperor Paul, but was
only finally consecrated in 1861. The
bishops of Orel reside in a palace which
was formerly a monastery, suppressed
1819. There are also a Lutheran and
a Roman Catholic Chapel. The Gos-
tinnoi Dvor or Bazaar is a handsome
and extensive building. Orel possesses
a theatre, presented to the town by
Coimt Levashoff, on condition of ite
revenues being appropriated to the
support of an asylum; also a public
library and a public garden of nearly
20 acres. The finest buildings in the
town are the Courts of Law (founded
1846), the Governor's house (1783),
the Assembly-house of the nobility
(1823), and a military gymnasium.
Mu(^ of the taUow and hemp ex-
ported from Russia comes from Orel
and its neighbourhood. The yearly
transactions of Orel in wheat amount
to about 1 million roubles. It is
brought there, for sale and shipment
down the Oka, from the neighbouring
provinces of Tula and Voronej, but
particularly from Eursk. The sales
of hemp and hemp-yam likewise re-
present more than a million of roubles
per annum, the raw material being
grown principally in the province of
Orel, and partly in that of Tula. Lin-
seed oil, purchased in the provinces of
Orel, Tula, and Kursk, is an article
of some importance in the trade of
Orel, its annual sales representing half
a million roubles.
Large quantities of cattle are driven
to Orel from Voronej, Kursk, and
Bussia.
Boute 13. — Kursh.
257
other southern districts; they are
partlj melted down for tallow, and
partly disposed of at Moscow. Can-
dles and soap are largely manu-
factured out of the tallow. There
is also a considerable trade in timber
and salt.
Hitherto the extensive commerce
of Orel has had two outlets, one by
land, the other by water down the
Oka. The goods despatched down
the Oka are destined to be discharged
at Kaluga, Serpukhof, Kolomna, Mu-
rom, Nijni-Novgorod, Bybinsk, and in
part at St Petersburg, with which the
water communication is uninterrupted.
By land, the produce of Orel is sent to
Moscow, and to the stations on the
rivers of the province of Smolensk, for
despatch to Riga and St. Petersburg.
The completion of the line to Witeb&
and Biga must necessarily change the
character and direction of the large
trade of this town. Fairs are held
3 times a year : between the 6th and
20th January, the 8th and 31st Sep-
tember (O.S.), and during the 5th and
6th wee^ after Easter. The first fair
is the least considerable. The bazaar
or market days are Sundays and
Fridays. After the gathering of the
harvest as many as 10,000 carts enter
the town daily, laden with wheat,
hemp, linseed, &c.
KuBSK, 488 V. 8. of Moscow. Pop.
28,000. Junction of Kursk-Kief rly.
Vide route to Odessa. JSotd: Polto-
ratsky's, in Moscow-street.
The town is very prettily situated
on the river Tuakor, near its junction
with the Seim. The Kur, an afflu-
ent of the Tuskor, likewise flows past
the town. The gardens that abound
at Kursk give it a very picturesque ap-
pearance. Being in the centre of a
ricli agricultural district, a consider-
able tiade in grain, tallow, hemp, &c., is
carried on, much of the produce being
sold at St. Petersburg and Moscow.
Fairs are held on the 23rd April (O. S.),
and during the 10th week after Easter ;
the mar£t-days are Mondays and
Fridays. Two very large fairs (Ko-
rennaya) are held at a spot 27 v. from
Kursk, on the 9th Friday after Easter |
and on the 8th (20th) Sept. of each
year.
History,— K^coids attest the exist-
ence of Kursk in 1032, and in 1095 the
town is mentioned as being in the pos-
session of Isiaslaf, son of Yladimir
Monomachus. From its foundation to
the Tartar conquest, Kursk passed
from the Princes of Chemigoff to those
of Pereiaslavl, and suffered much from
internecine wars, and from the incur-
sions of the Polovtses. One of these
incursions, repelled by Igor Sviatosla-
viteh, in conjunction with Wsewolod
of Kursk and other princes, is the
subject of an ancient poem, well known
throughout Bussia. In the 13th centy.
the Tartars destroyed the town en-
tirely. It was fortified in 1586, with
other places on the southern frontier of
Muscovy; and from that time to the
middle of the 17th centy. it met with
great disasters at the hands of the
rebels (1612), the Grim Tartars (1600,
1615, anji 1645), and lastly the Poles
in 1634. The fortress, of which only
a portion of the wall is extant, was
erected along the edge of a . sloping
hill, washed by the waters of the
Tuskor and Kur, and having the ap-
pearance of a triangle. It was pro-
tected on two sides by those rivers,
and on the other by a deep diteh,
closed in 1783, and since converted
into the ** Krasnaya" or red (beautiful)
square.
There are 19 churches of stone
within the town; the cath. was built
in 1733, and the ch. dedicated to
St. Sergius in 1762. The latter con-
tains a copy of the Gtospels printed in
1698. In the Oh. of the Annuncia-
tion, built 17414, is a silver cross, sent
by the Tsar Michael. The ch. next
in importance is that of St. Elias, built
1768. There is also a Lutheran ch.
in Kursk, as well as a monastery and a
convent. ,The monastery, called the
Bogoroditshy - Znamensky (Apparition
of Virgin) was founded in 1612 by the
citizens of Kursk to commemorate the
retreat of the Polish Hetman Jolkevski.
who had threatened to pillage the
town. It was, however, burnt down
by the Poles in 1634 and 1649, and
was not entirely restored until 1680,
258
Route IS.— Kharkoff.
Sect.n.
by the contributions of the charitable,
and particularly by the bounty of
Prince Gregory Komadanofsky. The
cathedral within it contains a holy
image held in great veneration — that
of l£e Apparition of the Holy Virgin
—an event that took place at a monas-
tery called Korennaya, 27 v. from
Kursk, founded 1597, and where a
great fair is yearly held. Immense
crowds follow the procession of the
holy image to that place, and the latter
remains there from the 9th Friday
after Easter to the 12th (24th) Sent.
This image is reputed to have oeen
found by the inhabitants of the neigh-
bouring town of Rylsk, on the 8th (20th)
Sept. 1295, in a wood on the banks of
the Tuskor. It was discovered resting
on the roots of a tree, and fruitlessly
did the good citizens endeavour to
keep it at Rylsk; it always returned,
until they were forced t6 keep it in a
chapel on the very place of its appear-
ance, during a period of 302 years.
When at last the monastery was
founded, it was deposited there, but in
1615 removed to Kursk.
There are many public buildings on
a large scale at Kxusk, such as several
gymnasia, an hospital, a lunatic asy-
lum, and a house of correction. A
large public garden attached to the
latter establishment is the fieivourite
promenade of the inhabitants of Kursk.
It was presented to the town by one
of its former governors, Patd Demidoff.
The rly. hence to Kharkoff will be
open for traffic in 1869.
BLharkopp, 697 v. from Moscow, and
209 V. from Kursk. Pop. 52,000.
HM : " Vienne," in Moscow Street,
dose by the bridge overlooking the
river. Grerman spoken.
History. — The town of KharkofE; now
the seat of government of a province of
the same name, was founded about
1650 by a band of Cossacks, of whom
the chief, Khariton, is popularly sup-
posed to have given it its present
appellation, although the anterior ex-
istence of a rivulet in the vicinity
bearing the same name is cited by
others in refutation of that theory.
Its history is however far more an-
cient, as attested by innumerable tumuli
and ruins, mentioned by chroniclers
even in the 16th centy., as well as by
the '* babi " or carved idols of stone, and
the coins both of ancient Rome and of
the Khalifs, found in great quantities
throughout the province of Khark-
off, and particularly along the banks
of its nvers. Remarkable images,
or idols of stone, are found ex-
clusively in the southern part of the
province, and continue to be met with
in the neighbouring district of the
province of Ekaterinoslaf, while the
tumuli occur in greatest numbers at
the southern and eastern extremities
of the province which the traveller
will now have reached. From the posi-
tion in which these monumeTiia UHte-
rata have been discovered it is argued
by archfldologists that the southern
and part of the western district of the
province were anciently populated by
two distinct races which nmde war
upon each other, causing the inhabit-
ants of the western and northern banks
of the rivers Donets, Yorskla, and Psla
to protect themselves from incursions
by earthworks. Some of the more an-
cient names of places may be traced to
the Khazars, and others to the Tartars,
by both of whom Russia was overrun
in remote ages. At all events the
races that inhabited the province of
Kharkoff, and whose existence has left
traces from the Enisei in Siberia to the
foot of the Caucasus and the mouths
of the Dniepr, must have passed away
before the Christian era, for a Roman
writer of the fourth centy. after Christ,
while speaking of the Huns, compares
their faces to the " roughly-hewn posts
with the face of a man, such as may
be seen on the shores of the Pontus
Euxinus." The discovery of coins of
Octavius (Augustus) and of numerous
ancient weapons near the town of
Chuguef (36 v. from Kharkoff) esta-
blishes the fact of an early intercourse
with Rome, while the coins of the
Khalifs found near Sumi( 187 V. from
ELharkoff) prove the existence of an
early mercantile connection with Ara-
bia.
Panslavists assert that the whole of
the country tt^^onsideration was
Eussia.
Bmte IS.^Kharkojf.
259
peopled by Slavonian races before it
began to be mentioned by Greek and
Boman writers, but more impartial
authorities are of opinion that at any
rate the south-eastern portion of the
present province of Kharkoff was the
camping-ground of ancient nomadic
tribes, particularly of the Ehazars, who
established their power from the banks
of the Caspian to the very borders of
Kief, the Norman princes of which at
last drove the barbarians back. The
northern Donets is frequently men-
tioned by old Russian chroniclers when
relating the wars of the Polovtses and
the Petchenegians. Many towns ex-
isted in its unmediate vicinity, and are
mentioned prior even to the 11th centy.
In the 13th centy. the province of
Kharkoff became the high-road of the
Tartar invaders of Russia, who, by their
long possession of the coimtry, gave
many of the localities and rivers their
present names. But after their great
defeat at Kulikovo, in the 14th centy.,
outposts or posts of observation began
to be established on the Ebopra and the
Don, and later still the watershed of the
northern Donets and the Oskol is fre-
quently mentioned as the battlefield
of the Russians and the Tartars of the
Crimea, who, in the latter part of the
15th centy., followed in the footsteps
of the more ancient enemies of Russia,
the Tartars of the Golden Horde, in-
habiting the shores of the Caspian.
In the 16th centy. those outposts were
pushed on far beyond the confines of
the present province of Kharkoff, and
a regular fortress, no longer extant,
was at last built in 1598 at the junction
of the, Oskol with the Donets. From
that fime the country watered by those
rivers began to be populated, but dis-
sensions with the Poles in Little
Russia, and the turbulent events at
Moscow that preceded the election of
the Tsar Michael, once more threatened
to arrest its natural development.
In 1638 a disaffected band of Little
Russians, then subject to Poland, were
permitted to place themselves under
the allegiance of the Tsar of Mos-
covy, and were by him established
at Chu^ef. These emigrants were
followed by others, who undertook the
defence of the southern frontiers of
Moscovia, and for that purpose were
banded together under a military or
Cossack form of government. The
pretensions of Poland to this province
were renoimced by a formal treaty in
1647, which considerably increased the
emigration from Little Russia, and led
to the establishment of many towns,
amongst which was Eharkoff, near the
junction of the Kharkoff and Lopani
rivers.
The ancient fortress of Kharkoff
was of oak, and round it was a
moat two fins, in breadth and depth.
Later it was armed with 10 cast-iron
guns and 1 of brass, while its ammuni-
tion consisted of 8 barrels of gunpowder,
402 shells, and 8 rolls of lead. The
defence of the town was intrusted to a
regiment of Circassian Cossacks, who
had likewise emigrated to these parts.
The dissensions in Little Russia that
followed on the death of the celebrated
Bogdan Khmelnitsky once more dis-
turbed the peace of Kharkoff, for in
1668 the Hetoian Briuhovitsky, having
raised the Cossacl^s of Little Russia,
summoned all the Cossacks of the Don
and of the settlements around Kharkoff
to join him in his rebellion against the
Tsar of Muscovy, then accused of
desiring to transfer the Cossacks to the
Crown of Poland. The garrison of
Kharkoff refused to join the rebels,
who, however, penetrated into the town
and besieged the fortress, which was
at last relieved from Chuguef. For
their loyalty the Cossacks, or regiment
of Kharkoff received several privileges
and immunities in 1669. In the war
that followed they took a prominent
part, and, for the defence of their co-
lonies, erected a wall between the
Kolomak and Mja, and several new for-
tifications on the Donets, the principal
of which, called Izium, subsequently
became head-quarters of the regiment,
and ultimately gave it its name.
Between 1679 and 1680 the Khan of
the Crimea broke through the fortifica-
tions of Valki, a town 51 v. firom Khar-
koff, and, after devastating the country
up to the walls of Belgorod, returned in
safety, although pursued and partly
beaten by the Cossacks of Kharkoff.
260
Boute IS.— PoUam.
Sect. II.
In 1693, 15,000 Tartars and Janissaries
crossed the borders of the " Eharkoff
regiment," and laid waste to the out-
slorts of the town, but they were sub-
sequently driven back with great loss —
a victory for which the Eharkovites
obtained a new charter and 2 guns from
the Tsar. These inroads were continued
even in the 18th centy., principally be-
cause the Cossacks of Kharkolf refused
to assist Mazeppa or the rebel Bulavin.
Philip Orlik, proclaimed Hetman, in
Turkey, after the death of Mazeppa,
induceid the Khan of the Crimea to
invade the colonies of the Cossacks
with 50,000 men, who were accompanied
in that expedition by the Zaporogian
Cossacks (or Cossacks from beyond the
rapids of the Don), and by roblier bands
formed of the remnants of the defeated
followers of Bulavin. The work of
pillage and destruction was continued
until 1720, when the Khan withdrew.
No enemy has since molested the in-
habitants of Kharkofi^ whose military
organization was reformed with that of
other Cossack towns in the same pro-
vince in 1765, when it was also made
the capital of the Ukraine.
Trade and prosperity have since esta-
blished the importance of Kharkofi*,
now one of the principal centres of
trade in Bussia. It has an immense
trade in wool, and four fairs are annu-
ally held tiiere — the " Krestchenskaya,"
or Epiphany fair, opened on the 6lii
(18th) January, being one of the
most important in Bussia. In 1863
goods to the amount of 2^ or 3 mil-
lions sterling were brought to that fair,
the textile fabrics alone representing a
value of about a million sterling. The
wool sales take place exclusively at
the Trinity fair, in June. Bazaars or
markets are moreover held on Sun-
days, "Wednesdays, and Fridays. They
are particularly active immediately
before Christmas and Easter.
Kharkoff is likewise a seat of learn-
ing, as it possesses auniversity, founded
in 1805, and frequented by 600 students.
It is situated, in the centre of the town,
the principal building having been for-
merly a palace of the Empress Cathe-
rine 11. The scientific collections are
kept in that building, but tiie library,
containing 55,000 vols., is on the other
side the street. The Zoological Cabinet
contains a valuable collection of the
birds of S. Bussia and of the fishes of
the Black Sea.
In the north part of the town is a
Veterinary College, conducted on a very
liberal scale and well worthy of a visit,
as is also the Government Model Farm,
about a mile out of Kharkoff, esta-
blished 1847. The environs of tho
town are very picturesque, and the view
from the " Cold Mountains,'* or still bet-
ter from the lower part of Ekaterinoslaf-
street, is one of the most striking that
can possibly be imagined. There is
also a large public garden, the Chinee
pagoda in which was erected at an ex-
pense of 30,000 rubles.
A railway will be completed in 1870
from Kharkoff to Taganrog and Bos-
tof, on the Sea of Azof, and it is
probable that until then travellers
proceeding to Odessa by the route now
being described will have to post from
Kharkoff to the nearest rly. station of
the line which is being pushed on east-
wards from Balta. It must be reserved
for the next edition of this Handbook
to give a more minute description of
one unbroken line of rail from St.
Petersburg to Odessa, the present break
in that line being between Kursk and
Elizavetgrad (vide the map).
Poltava, 842 v. from Moscow. Pop.
28,000.
Hotels: H. de St. Petersbourg; H.
de Paris ; H. d* Italic.
History, — Very little is known of the
early history of this town beyond that
it was called Stava in the 12th centy.,
and that it was destroyed by the Tar-
tars in the early part of the 13th centy.
Known later as Platava, Oltava, and
Poltava, it waa given in 1430 as an
appanage to Lexada, a small Tartar
prince, ancestor of the princes of
Glinsk, who became related to the
princes of Moscow through Helen
Glinskaya, mother of John the Terri-
ble. By other authorities the antiquity
of Poltava is denied, and its origin is
traced to the year 1608, when it bSaune
the settlement of some Cossack families.
But it is probable that both account^
Sussia.
Soute 13. — Poltava.
261
are equally correct, for the older in-
habitants still speak of the old and the
new town, the former being situated
on an eminence about a mile from the
river Vorskla, and on which a cathe-
dral, built in 1770, and a ch. erected
1707, will be seen. The new town
occupies a splendid position on another
high hill, and the river flows between
the two lulls and through the marshy
plain to the wood beyond. During
the revolt of the Cossacks under Bog-
dan Khmelnitsky, Poltava beccune a
regimental town — a character which it
lost in 1764 when the Hetmanate was
abolished.
The battle of 1709 was fought in a
plain about 4 m. 8.W. of the town. A
mound of earth about 40 ft. in height,
surmounted by a cross, covers the
bodies of the Swedes who fell, and
serves to mark the centre of the field.
An iron column in the town itself
commemorates the defeat of Chiles
XII.
The present province of Poltava, like
that, in great part, of Kursk and Kher-
son, anciently constituted the princi-
pality of Pereyaslavl, later known as
the Ukraine. Traces of old earthworks
and innimierable tumuli are found
throughout the province of Poltava:
the most considerable of the former
may still be seen in the vicinity of
Gadiatch, a district to the N.W. of the
town of Poltava. It is, however, diflS-
cult to distinguish the more ancient
ruins from those of a comparatively
recent period, due to wars with Lithu-
anians, Poles, and Swedes. The Tartars
likewise gave many appellations to
vDlages, but these are more generally
called after names given to them by
the Lithuanians and Poles during their
possession of Little Kussia.
When Guedemin of Lithuania took
Kief in the 14th centy., the country in
which the traveller will now have ar-
rived was annexed to Lithuania ; and
when the union between Poland and
Lithuania was effected in 1386, Little
Bussia acquired the same civil and
religious rights as were enjoyed by the
Poles themselves. In 1476 Casimir
established Yoevodes and CasteUairui in
the towns and villages of the Ukraine,
whose oppression, according to Eussian
accounts, led to the establishment of
Cossack bands who migrated beyond
the rapids of the Dniepr, and whose
descendants are now known as the Za-
porogian Cossacks. The new colonies,
atta&ed in their turn by hordes from
the Q'imea, were forced to unite under
a military organization, which was
subsequently governed by a Hetman,
elected with the sanction of Sigis-
mund I., King of Poland, who endowed
the Cossacks with lands on both sides
of the Dniepr.
They were thus divided into the
Zaporogian and Ukraine Cossacks, the
latter occupying lands in the present
province of Poltava, and partly in those
of Kief and Podolia, and consisting of
20 regiments. These military bands
soon became the terror of the Tartars,
and later still stood up in defence of
their religion, that of the Greek Church,
which was endangered by the intoler-
ance of the Jesuits. The famous re-
bellion under Bodgan Khmelnitski in
the 17th centy. resulted in a treaty ,of
peace with Poland in 1650, and led to
the annexation of Little Eussia to
Bussia Proper in 1654. The Hetman-
ate was preserved imtil 1764, when
the administration was brought into
uniformity with that existing in other
provinces of the empire.
But Little Bussia remained for some
time longer subject to the depredations
of the Tartars, until the Ukraine line of
defence was commenced in the reign of
Peter the Great along an extent of 400
V. from the Dniepr to the Donets, and
finished in 1732. The fortifications
and earthworks on that line were de-
fended by 20,000 Cossacks, but Little
Bussia was not finally freed from the
incursions of the Tartars until Cathe-
rine II. subjected the Crimea to her
rule.
As a place of trade Poltava occupies
a very prominent position among
Eussian towns, principally on account
of the fair (Ilyinskaya) held there on
the 10th July (O. S.) of each year, and
lasting one month. The average value
of the goods carried to this great com-
mercial gatiiering is estimated at about
3^ millions sterling; the number of
262
Boute 13. — Ejremenchuh — JElizavetgrad. Sect. IL
carts which hring them from Moscow,
Odessa, KharkofiC Ktirsk, and Yoronej
being more than 20,000. Eussian
manufactures are much sold, but wool
is the great staple of trade. Horses,
cattle, and sheep are likewise bought
and sold in. great numbers at that fair.
Poltava has also long been celebrated
for its leeches, found in neighbouring
pools and morasses, and despatched
across the whole length of the con-
tinent for exportation.
Kbemenchuk, 955 v. from Moscow ;
113 V.S.W. from Poltava. Pop. 36,000.
Hotel : the Posting-house, tolerable.
This pretty- and thriving town is
situated on the 1. bank of the Dniepr,
which, by overflowing in 1820, 1844,
1 845, andl850, committed great ravages.
The northern part of the town is pro-
tected from inundation by 2 dams at
Eriushi village. Two other small
streams flow through one end of the
town, which is supposed to have been
founded in 1571. It was burnt down
in 1663 during the revolt of the Cos-
sacks, and two years later it was oc-
cupied by a Bussian detachment. In
1765 Elremenchuk was made the pro-
vincial town of New Russia, and at
that time the celebrated Prince Potem-
kin of the Taurida Uved there in a
palace of which only the foundations
can now be traced. Fires occurred
in 1848, 1852, and 1856. Nothing is
left of the old fortress or earthwork
built by the Poles in the 17th centy.
Thfere are five churches of the Russo-
Greek faith, of which the cathedral
was built 1813. The finest houses are
the Head-quarters of the Inspector of
the Cavalry of Reserve and the " In-
valides." The Town-haU is in the
old Gothic style of architecture. The
river runs at a very rapid rate opposite
the town, and is passed in ferry-boats.
A large trade is carried on hence in
tallow, salt, grain, beetroot, sugar, &c. ;
and the town is a great emporium of
ike raw and half-manu£a.ctured pro-
duce brought down the" Dniepr from
tlie provinces through which that river
fiows, and overland from Voronej,
Smolensk, Orel, Kursk, and Little
Russia. Between 1859 and 1862 the
average annual amount of produce
shipped at Eremenchuk was as fol-
lows : —
Salt 1^75,820 poudB.
Grain 332,248 ,,
Tallow, candles, and soap . 48,252' „
Wool 21,668 „
Linseed. ...... 41,680 „
Fairs are held on the 30th January
(during 14 days), 24th June (11 days),
and Ist Sept, (10 days) ; all old style.
In 1862 the sales at these fairs amoimted
to 85,000Z., and the value of the goods
brought to about 110,000^.
The rly. hence to Balta and Odessa
will be open in the latter part of 1869.
Steamers ply in summer between
Exemenchuk and Kief.
Elizavetgrad, 1071 v. from Moscow,
and 116 v. from Kremenchuk. Pop.
24,000.
Hotel. — As the rly. from Balta will
lead to the establishment of better
inns, inquire at the rly. stat.
This town was founded in 1754 by
Colonel Hosvat, a Servian, acting un-
der the orders of the Empress Eliza-
beth, after whom it was originally
called the " Fortress of St. Elizabeth."
The fortress was demolished in 1805.
Situated on the sloping Steppe de-
clivities of the valley of the Ingul,
Elizavetgrad has a very pleasing ap-
pearance, and is well built. It has a
"Great Perspective" street, full of
shops and a boulevard of white acacias.
In the suburb of Kovalevka are many
houses of the neighbouring gentry.
It is separated from the town by a
large square, on which stands the so-
called palace, inhabited by members
of the imperial family whenever they
visit the town. Barracks and a riding-
school wiQ be found on the same pUice^
which is further adorned by a boule-
vard of acacias and poplars. Elizavet-
grad is a place of great trade in tallow,
grain, &c. The most important of the
4 £a,irs held there is that of St. George
(held on the 23rd April, O.S.) the value
of the goods brought to it in 1863 haying
been above 300,0002. A large business
is done at it in manufactured goods
{brought from Odessa, WUna, and
Boute 13. — Olviopol — BaUa.
Berdicheff. A market is moreover
held daily, and the transactions are
considerable, particularly after harvest
time. There is a large garden her
longing to the government, on the river
Sugakley, 2 v. out of Eliza vetgrad. It
covers nearly 60 acres, and existed
prior to the progress made by Catherine
II. in New Russia. The tumuli of
which the traveller has heard so much
thi-oughout his journey southwards
begin to be numerous here.
The rly. hence to Balta and Odessa
will be open in July, 1868.
Olviopol, 306 v. fix)m Odessa. Pop.
4000.
Hotd — ^none. Travellers wishing to
stay must continue to make the rly.
stat. their headquarters.
History, — Situated at the confluence
of the Siniuha with the Bug (which
is here spanned by a fine rly. bridge),
Olviopol, although a mean-looking
town of wooden hovels, is a place of
considerable importance as regards
trade, being in the centre of a district
abounding in wheat. The rly. from
Balta, opened 1868, will considerably
add to its importance, which in early
days was in a ^reat measure strate-
gical. The Simuha river was in the
17th centy. a Polish boundary, and a
little below the mouth of that river,
on the island of the Bug, once stood
the fastness of Cossack sea-robbers,
who more than once harassed the Poles,
although not without paying dearly for
it on several occasions. la order to
put an end to the depredations of the
Cossacks, the Russian government re-
solved to fortify the course of the
Siniuha, and, in 1744, erected some
works on the 1. banks both of the
Siniuha and the Bug. In 1764 the
fortifications became the peaceful re-
sort of traders and the seat of a custom-
house. The great commercial highway
from Poland to Otchakoff passed
through it. In 1770 the fortifications
were rebuilt, and in 1782 the site
was raised to the dignity of a town, and
called Olviopol, in memory of the
ancient Greek colony on the 1. bank of
the estuary of the Bug.
The subsequent war with Turkey
removed the Russian frontier to the
Dniester, and Olviopol lost its military
importance. The town now trends for
about 5 m. along the 2 rivers, but it
has scarcely any streets. Its southern
part is frequently inundated by the
Bug, which before the construction of
the rly.-bridge was crossed with great
diflSculty and danger. About ^ m.
from the mouth of the Siniuha are the
remains of fortifications. The inhabit-
ants of Olviopol are much engaged
in carrying wheat in barges to Niko-
lae^ Yoznesensk, and Odessa.
Balta, 194 v. from Odessa. Junct.
with Odessa — ^Volochisk line (border
ofGalicia). Pop. 14,000.
Hotels : two, kept by Jews, but very
bad. Travellers can wash at the rly.
stat.
History,— BsltA is the chief town of
a district in the fertile province of
Podolia, watered by the Dniepr and
the Bug, and having more than a
million acres of land under cultivation.
The vine flourishes throughout the
Balta district, and the grazing of cattle
is pursued on a large scale. In 1 860
it possessed 74,200 head of homed
cattle, 11,300 horses, 38,000 sheep,
14,800 swine, and 200 goats. The
immense trade in raw products, which
is the consequence of such fertility
and riches, is principally in the hands
of Jews, who constitute half the popu-
lation of Balta.
Thirteen stations beyond Balta the
train will stop at Kuhkovo, the rly.
stat. of Odessa, for description of which
vide preceding route.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
264
Boute 14. — Kchmna — SiazatL
Sect.II.
ROUTE 14.
MOSCOW TO VOROmSJ, BY BIAZAN,
mAJBkj AHD KOZLOF, WITH BRANOHES
TO MOBSHANSK AND ELBTS.
This line runs parallel with the
railway to Eharkoff and the Azof, and
is destined to be continued to the
countrv of the Don Cossacks. It is
opened as far as Voronej. Fare to Ria-
zan about 12 roubles. The principal
towns through which it passes are : —
Kolomna, 107 v. (8 stats.) from Mos-
cow. Pop. 17,000. Buffet at station.
This town, situated on the rt. bank of
Moskva river, is first mentioned hj
chroniclers in 1177, and until the be-
ginning of the 14th centy. it formed
part of the principality of Riazan, but
it has been annexed to Moscow (of
which province it is now a district-
town) since 1305. It was frequently
ravaged between the 13th and 17th
cents. ; in 1237 by the Tartars under
Baty ; in 1380 by the hordes of Tokh-
tamysh; in 1380 by Prince Oleg of
Riazan ; in 1440 by Mahmet, Tsar of
Kazan ; in 1525 by the Grim Tartars
under Mahmet Girei ; in 1608 by the
Poles under Lissofski ; in 1609 by the
Pretender or Robber of Tushin ; and in
1611 by Wladislaus, King of Poland.
After the sack of 1525, John the Ter-
rible caused the old walls of the town
to be rebuilt, and they partly exist to
this day. They had a circumference
of 2 v., and were 8^ fms. high, and 2
fms. broad, with 14 towers and 4
gates. The Piatnitski Gate is alone
well preserved, having been restored
in 1825. Of the towers, those called
the Kolonma and Tainitski (Secret)
Towers are in a tolerable state of pre-
servation.
Kolomna was in ancient days the
prison of many historical personages.
In 1433 Vassili the Dark, the de-
osed Tsar of Moscow, lived here. In
1 reign of John the Terrible many
of the most distinguished families of
Novgorod the Great were exiled to
Kolomna, which was also the prison,
in 1611, of Marina Mniszek, the wife
of the Polish pretender to the throne of
Muscovy. In the 16th centy. it was
thrice the gathering-point of the Rus-
sian legions that marched against the
Tartars. In the Oh. of the Resurrec-
tion, within the Kremlin, Dimitry of
the Don married Eudoxia, Princess of
Suzdal. The present Oathedral of the
Assumption was built in 1672 on the
site of a cathedral built in the 14th
centy. by Dimitry of the Don. There
are also a convent founded 1552, and
a monastery established 1799. In
1866 there were 16 manufactories at
Kolonma, of which 3 of cotton goods
and 1 of silks. A considerable trade
also exists in wheat, salt, timber, and
cattle. It is favoured by water com-
munication with the provinces border-
ing the great Oka river, and by its
fluviatile connection with Moscow.
Between Kalonma and the next
station of Lukhovitsi the train will
pass over a fine bridge thrown over the
Oka river.
Riazan, 185 v. (13 stats.) &om Mos-
cow. Pop. 25,000.
Hotel : Steuert's Hotel in Astrakhan-
street, very good. Rooms, 1 r. to
150 c. per day.
Riazan is veiy prettily situated on
the small Lybed rivulet, which falls
into the Trubej river at the eastern
end of the town, and is distant only
2 V. from the banks of the Oka. It
stands in the centre of a rich agricul-
tural district, and carries on a great
trade in rye. The province of Riazan,
of which the town is ^e seat of govern-
ment, was anciently inhabited by
Finnish tribes, one of which, the
Mestchera, still retains some of its
characteristics, and occupies a district
on the Oka, about 80 v. from Riazan.
The Mordva tribe holds large tracts
in the neighbouring province of
Tambof, and its members to this day *
preserve their characteristic dress and
a distinct language. The women of
these ancient Finnish races may be
known by the omaments which they
Bussia.
Boute 14. — Biazan.
265
Buspend lonnd the chin, and which
principally consist of small silver coins
on strings.
The town of Murom, so called after
another of those tribes, is mentioned
as in existence before 862, but the
principality of Biazan appears to have
been founded at the latter part of the
11th centy., and to have been tributary
to the principality of Murom until the
year 1155. Later it fell under the
power of the princes of Vladimir, but
regained its independence and enjoyied
it until its absorption into the princi-
pality of Moscow in the 16th centy.
The old city of Riazan, founded in
the 11th centy., was destroyed by the
liordes of Baty in 1237, and thence-
forth Pereyaslavl-Eiazanski, founded
about the same time (1095), gradually
succeeded to its importance, and now
bears even its name. The fortifi-
cations of Pereyaslavl were rebuilt
1198. In 1294 the town is mentioned
in connection with the miraculous
voyage of the Bishop of Murom on a
mantle down the Oka, first to Riazan,
then to Pereyaslavl. In the 14th
centy. the latter town was the scene
of many stirring events connected with
the history of Riazan. During the
whole of the 15th centy., and until
1517, it was the capital of the Princes
of Biazan. Although frequently at-
tacked by the Tartars in the 15th and
16th cents., the town did not suffer as
much then as in previous invasions.
In 1513 the Ostrog or Citadel was
taken by the Tartars, but they were
repulsed from the town. In the 14th
centy. Pereyaslavl was surrounded by
a double wall, protected by 12 towers,
and a wet ditch. These were extant
in 1684, when the town was divided
into two parts— the Kremlin and the
Ostrog (Citadel). The former stood
on an elevation at the mouth of the
Trubej and Lybed, while the latter in-
cluded the space between those two
rivers. No trace remains of the ancient
fortifications.
The Cathedral of (he Asmmptifm, on
the square of the former Kremlin, was
built in 1690, and is, from its great
size, one of the most remarkable build-
ings in Biuwia. It was restored in 1800,
and the belfry was rebuilt 1840. Its
greatest treasures are 2 " miracle-work-
ing " images or pictures of the Virgin.
One of them was brought to the old
city of Riazan from Murom by Bishop
Vasili in 1291, on the occasion of his
wonderful voyage above-mentioned ;
the second ** appeared to the people "
in 1487, in the village of Fedotief : its
fete is held since 1618 annually on the
2nd (14th) July, in commemoration
of the deliverance of Riazan from an
invasion of the Cherkesses. In the sa-
cristy of the cath. is a cup which was gilt
in the 17th centy. with the gold signet
of Baty, who is reputed to have left it
in the monastery of Bogoslof, in this
province, on the occasion of his inroad
into Russia. The Episcopal Palace
stands near the cathedral. The Ch,
of the Nativity was rebuilt in the early
part of the present centy., on the site
of a very ancient edifice. It contains
the relics of the famed Vasili, first
Bishop of Murom and Riazan, which
were removed hither from old Riazan
in 1592. In it are buried Prince
Theodore of Riazan, his consort,
daughter of Dimitry of the Don (14th
centy.), and his son John; also his
grandson and 2 great-grandsons. The
inscriptions on some of the other tombs,
now scarcely legible, show that they
contain the remains of the Princes
Tretny, descendants of Prince Theo-
dore. Many of the bishops of Riazan
of the 16th and 17th cents, are like-
wise buried in this ch., and amongst
them Bishop Stephan Yavorski, " De-
fender of tiie Patriarchal Throne."
In the sacristy may be seen the panagia
or reliquary of Bishop Stephan; a
great number of chalices and patens,
mostly of the 15th centy. ; the mantle
of Arohbp. Misail, who perished in '
his attempt to christainise the Mordva
tribe; halberds, remains of ancient
banners, &o. The Monastery of (fie
Transfiguraiion, with 2 chs., is of
unknown date, but it existed in the
middle of the 15th centy. The Con-
vent of Kazanski^Yavlmshi was re-
moved to its present site in 1787. The
Dvlchof, or Monastery of (he Holy Spirit,
near the Episcopal Palace, was founded
in the 16th centy. The date of its
266
Boute 14. — Biajsk.
Sect. n.
suppression as a monastery is not
known.
ExouBSiONS. — Some of the monas-
teries in the province of Riazan are
very ancient. That of Solotcht, at the
junction of the Solotchi with the Oka,
18 V. from Eiazan, was founded in
1390 by the celebrated Prince of
Biazan, Oleg, the enemy of Moscow,
and of Dimitry of the Don, and who
subsequently took the cowl there. His
remains and those of his consort Eu-
praxia, originally buried in a ch. which
stood near the monastery, were re-
moved in the early part of the present
centy. to the crypt of the principal ch.
within its walls, where also portions of
their stone coffins, and of the coat of
mail as weU as the greaves of Prince
Oleg, nre deposited. The latter relics
are considered to have healing powers,
and are allowed to be put on by
visitors. The monks will show an
ancient image carved in stone repre-
senting the Holy Princes Boris and
Gleb. The Bogoslofski Monastery^ on
the Oka 25 v. from Riazan, was founded
in the early part of the 13th centy.,
and restored 1534. Within its 2
churches are many ecclesiastical trea-
sures, of which the most remarkable is
a holy image of John the Evangelist,
painted at Constantinople, and pre-
sented to the Prince of Biazan. It
manifested miraculous powers in 1237.
Tradition says that Baty approached
the monastery in order to destroy it,
but, suddenly struck with awe, he not
only spared it, but endowed it with
treasure, depositing at the holy image
of John the Evangelist the gold signet
with which, as we have already seen,
the cup shown in the cathedral at
Biazan was later gilt. The handle of
tlds miraculous image, preserved in
the sacristy, bears an inscription re-
lating its history, which is also men-
tioned in a charter given to the monas-
tery by the Patriarch Adrian in 1692.
The monastery of Lgof Usfpemld.on
the high bank of the Oia, 10 v. from
Biazan, was founded by Prince Oleg
at the end of the 14th centy. Its ch.
was rebuilt 1667. The tombs of the
princely family of Stchetinin-Yaros-
lafski (of the 16th and 17th cents.),
stand on the crumbling bank of the
river, into which many ancient tomb-
stones have no doubt fallen.
An excursion may likewise be made
to the site of the old city of Biazan,
now a village about 50 v. from Biazan,
on the rt. &nk of the Oka, and 2 v.
from the small town of Spask. It is
still surrounded by an earthen ram-
part on 3 sides, while on the 4th or
western side it is protected by the high
bank of the Oka. The mounds in the
vicinity have yielded many archsBologi-
cal treasures. A pyramidal monument
of cast iron, erected in 1836, marks the
spot where the body of Bishop Vasili
rested imtil its removal to Biazan in
1592.
There are many fine estates in the
province of Biazan. We may mention
those of Jeludiova and Lakasha (of
about 40,000 acres), belonging to Mr.
Eolemin, 80 v. from Biazan, near the
town of Spask, and the site of old
Biazan. levellers who would wish
to make themselves acquainted with
the Bussian system of farming will
readily be initiated into the several
processes by one of these large pro-
prietors, to whom an introduction may
without much difficulty be obtained
at St. Petersburg or Moscow.
Travellers bound from the S. of
Bussia to the fair of Nijni can post
from Riazan to the town of Easimof,
136 V. distant, in an E.SJB. direction.
At Elatma, a small town E. of Easimof,
about ] 00 V. by post-road, but a very
short distance across country, they will
find a steamer which ascends to Murom
and Nijni 3 times a week. See Bte. 8,
Moscow to Nijni Novgorod.
BiAJSK, 109 V. (6thstat.) from Biazan.
Pop. 3000. This town is situated on
the Hupta river, which communicates
with the Oka by other tributaries.
The date of its foundation is unknown,
but it existed in 1502. Traces of its
ancient earthworks are still visible.
The merchants, who carry on a very
large trade in ^in, tallow, hides, &c.,
reside principally in the villages of
Ukholova (1st stat. on rly. to Mor-
shansk) and Perevl5s, in the district
Bu8sia«
Boute IL—'MoreJiansh — Kozhf.
267
of Rlajsk, and therefore the town itself
is but little enlivened by trade. It
has now, however, acquired consider-
able importance by its connection with
Morshansk.
\Bramk Railway from Biajsk to
Morshansk.
Trains run several times a day to
Morshansk, distant 121 v. Moscow
time kept.
Morshansk, on river Tsna, Stat.,
Pop. 20,000. Hotels : there are several
ordinary Russian inns. As the rly.
recently establislied may cause some
improvement in them, inquire for the
best at the stat.
History. — The site of Morshansk
was given to the Bishops of .Biazan
in the 17th centy., and from a village
it became a town in 1779. There are
8 churches, of which the cathedral is
a fine modem structure, consecrated
1857. The old cathedral of Sophia
was built 1753. The town has been
deemed worthy of a railroad on ac-
count of its great trade, due to its
position in one of the most fertile pro-
vinces in Russia — Tambof. Tallow-
melting is its principal industry. In
1861 it had 13 melting-houses, which
produced 8300 cwt. of tallow. There
are also a soap-manufactory, a distil-
lery, &c. The tallow is principally
the produce of the cattle which the
merchants of Mordiansk purchase in
the country of the Don Cossacks,
and in the provinces of Astrakhan,
Saratoff, and Orenburg, to the ex-
tent of 20,000 head of homed cattle,
and 100,000 sheep. Large quantities
of tallow, in small parcels, are also
brought from other towns, and re-
melted at Morshansk. The meat is
carried to Moscow. In winter Mor-
shginsk is visited by merchants from
St.< Petersburg, Moscow, Yaroslaf,
Vladimir, &c., who come to purchase
the grain, linseed, tallow, potash, and
other produce brought there from the
provinces of Tambof, Penza, Saratof,
Bussia.—ISQS.
and Riazan. The purchases of grain
alone at Morshansk are estimated at
5,000,000 r. Saturday is the market-
day. Hitherto all this produce has
been shipped by the Tsna river to St.
Petersburg and Moscow, but the rly.
is intend&d to supersede the water
communication.]
Route to Voronej continued^
KozLOF, 198 V. from Riazan, and
89 V. from Riajsk. Pop. 30,000.
Inn: Rogof's Hotel. This is at the
same time the exchange of Kozlof,
where most of the transactions in
grain are concluded over a cup of tea.
History, &c. — Kozlof is situated on
the river Lesnoi-Voronej, and was
founded by Joseph, a hermit, in 1627,
who was joined by other religious
men, by whom later a brotherhood
was established. Its cathedral was
bmlt 1839, and the oldest ch. extant
dates only from 1772. This is also
one of the great centres of trade in
Russia, being in the centre of a blswjk-
soil district, rich in grain and cattle.
There are 14 tallow-melting houses,
2 soap-works, 7 candle-works, 3 brew-
eries and distilleries, &c. But the
principal trade of the town consists in
the sale of grain, of which 900,000
chetverts are bought up in the neigh-
bouring districts, and despatched to
Moscow. The tallow is the produce
of 20,000 head of cattle slaughtered
in the town, but a much larger num-
ber is driven to Kozlof annually, from
the banks of the Kuban and from
Little Russia ; the cattle that are not
melted down for tallow are sold in
Moscow. A large quantity of salted
meat is prepared at Kozlof, and there
is also a large trade in horses, the
province of Tambof, to which the town
belongs, being celebrated for its studs.
There are no fewer than 36 breeding
stables in the district of Kozlof alone.
The trade of the town is valued at
4,000,000 roubles, and the railroad
will very naturallj^^^ it to in-
crease considerably. <^
268
Bcmte 14. — EleU — Vormef.
Sect. IL
Gbiazi (3rd stat. from Kozlof))
on the rt. Matyra, a tributary of the
Voronej.
This is an agricnltural village of
2000 Inhab. A considerable qnantity
of fish is also caught here. There is
a railrocul hence in oonstruction (1868)
to Elets.
The mineral waters (alkaline and
fermginons) of Lipetsk, 3 hrs. drive
from Griazi, are much frequented be-
tween the 27th May and 27th Sept.
Kmnyss, or fermented mare's milk,
IS likewise drunk there.
IBranch to EleU.
Elbtb, on Sosna river. Pop.
26,000.
In the 11th centy. this was a fron-
tier town of the principality of Biazan.
It was destroyea by Baty in the 13th
centy., and is not mentioned again in
chronicles until the end of the 14th
centy., when Tamerlane approached
it on his march to Moscow, but
suddenly turned back towards the
mouth of the Don. The town was
then governed by its own princes. It
was devastated by the Tartars in 1415
and 1450, and w&a only rebuilt in
1591. During the troubles caused by
the appearance of the Pretenders in
the 17m centy., Elets was always on
the side of the rebels, and in 1618 it
was seized by the Hetman of Little
Russia. In 1745 it was totally de-
stroyed by a conflagration.
At present there are 16 chs. in Elets.
In the old Gaihedral dedicated to the
Mother of God are 2 very ancient
images of the Holy Virgin, of which
one was brought to the town in 1395,
and the other was painted at about the
same period in commemoration of the
invasion of Tamerlane ; it was restored
1779. • The Conv&U of the Apparition
of the Holy Virgin is of unknown date.
It was burned down 1764, when the
nuns were removed to Voronej, but it
was re-established in 1822. The con-
vent is surrounded by a stone wall
with 4 towers. Within it is a &ie
'»€lfry, of4 stories. The M(yna8tery of
the Trinity, no longer occupied by
monks (who were removed to tne town
of Lebedian, in Tambof, 1775), is sup-
posed to have been founded in the 12th
centy. The four small chapels are
reputed to stand over the graves of the
citizens who fell during tiie invasion
of Tamerlane. The Gostinnoi Dvor is
a very fine, leurge building. A prison
on a large scale is being built opposite
the monastery.
Elets is likewise an important place
of trade. It has 10 tallow-melting
houses, 14 soap and candle works, 11
tan-yards, and a large foundry. Its
principal transactions are, however, in
com and cattle. Bread-stuffs, and
particularly winter com, are brought
there from' the provinces of Kharkof,
Kursk, Voronej, Tambof, and partly
from Siaratof. The quantity of winter
com purchased in those districts by the
agents of the Elets merchants amounts
to 300,000 chetverts a year. This com,
mixed with spring com, gives an ex-
cellent quality of wheaten fiour, called
after the name of the town, and well
known in Bussia. There are no fewer
than 152 flour-mills in the vicinity of
the town. Markets thrice a week.]
Route to Voronej contintted.
VoKONEJ, 496 V. from Moscow, on rt.
bank of Voronej, near its confluence
with the Don. Pop. 41,000.
Hotel : Abramof s Hotel, pretty ffood.
There is also another good hotel
near the governor's house.
Hidory, &c, — ^Although the name of
Voronej occurs in the 12th centy., yet
it is uncertain whether a river or a
town is implied. Travellers of the
14th, 15th, and 16th cents, omit to
mention the existence of a town. At
all events, the present town of Voronej,
the seat of government of a province
bearing the same name, was founded
in 1686 by the "Boyar Mstsislav^
and his comrades." It was an ad-
vanced post ag^ainst the Tartars, and
the Russian citizens were called upon
in those days to supply horses for
Russian envoys to the Crimea, to
BussiA.
Boute 14. — Voron^\
269
Turkey, to the Kogay Tartars, and
to the Don Cossacks. In 1590 the
town was burned by the Oherkesses,
when the Voevod or Grovemor, Prince
Dolgorukof-Shibanofski, was killed. In
1603 and 1604 it surrendered to the
Pretenders, and was on each occasion
sacked. It nevertheless began to ac-
quire importance as a conunercial city
early in the 17th centy. The Tsar
Theodore caused a new fortress to be
built in 1672. It had walls of oak,
870 fms. in circumference, and 17
towers, besides a dry ditch. In 1676
the Inhab. numbered 5000. But its
greatest progress was made under the
reign of Peter, who first visited the
town in 1694, and established a fortified
dockyard. In 1699 Voronej had a fleet
of 66 vessels armed with 2546 cannon,
and carrying 16,814 troops. Tljey
were built under the superintendence
of a Dutch shipwright, Peter Bass.
When Peter went abroad he left Ad-
miral Apraxin in charge of the naval
yard, and on his return frequently
visited Voronej.
In 1701 the building yard was re-
moved to Tavrof, at the mouth of the
Don, as the river had become shallow
off the town. In 1702 Peter the Great
caused 4390 men to be brought here
from Archangel. Its bishop, the ca-
nonized Metrophanes, having died in
1703, Peter assisted at his funeral.
The fires of 1703, 1748, and 1773 de-
stroyed all the old buildings.
Voronej was the birthplace of two
poets — self-educated men — Koltsof
and NiMtin. The house in which
Nikitin (who was a bookseller) lived
is preserved. The two poets lie side
by side in the new cemetery. A monu-
ment to Koltsof is in course of erec-
tion in one of the public promenades.
The town stands on a steep height,
and consists of three portions, the upper
town, lower town, and suburbs. The
view from every part of it is truly mag-
nificent. The principal street has a
fine appearance, its sides being lined
¥dth handsome edifices, most ^ them
government buildings; Moscow-st. is
also very fine, and in it are the arch-
bishop's palace and the cathedral.
Tlie only ouilding that remains of the
time of Peter the Great is the " Ord-
nance house" on an island of the
Voronej. On the principal square
stands a monument to Peter I., erected
1860. The town possesses a theatre,
an hospital, a lunatic asylum, a prison,
a government school, and many other
institutions charitable and scholastic.
The Monastery of Metrophanes was
founded 1836, and contains 4 churches.
Within the principal ch., built of wood
in 1620, and rebuilt of stone in 1735,
lie the relics of St. Metrophanes in a
rich silver shrine.
Voronej is one of the most flourish-
ing towns in the S. of Russia, and has
a very large trade in corn, linseed,
tallow, &c. It has also many tallow-
melting houses, candle and soap works,
&c. Four fairs are held annually ; the
best being those of the 9th May and
29th Aug. (O.S.). Markets are held
3 times a week.
Until the rly. is continued from
Voronej to the country of the Don
Cossacks, travellers will have to post
across the country to Kursk, and take
rail there for the Black Sea or the
Azof. The more enterprising will pro-
bably make an excursion down the
Don river, the ancient Tanais, which
rises in Orel, and runs a course of
about 1000 m., or perhaps even embark
on a barge for Kalatch, from whence
steamers leave twice a week for Rostof
and Taganrog. There is also a rly.
from ^latch to Tsaritsin on the
Volga. The Don is fall of fine stur-
geon, and the mode of catching it, and
of extracting the caviar, of which
such prodigious quantities are eaten,
present numerous scenes of interest,
and afford many instructive subjects of
study. This excursion cannot, how-
ever, be imdertaken without a good
guide and proper preparation.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
02
270
Boute 16. — Taganrog.
Sect. n.
ROUTE 15.
ST. PETBBSBUBG, MOSCOW, OB RIQi , TO
TAGANROG AND BOSTOP (SEA OF AZOP),
BY KHABKOPF.
For routes to Kharkoff vide pre-
vious Rtes.
A railway from Kharkoff to Tagan-
rog and Rostof, 535 v. in length, has
been commenced in 1868, and will be
opened in the fall of 1870. The new
line will pass through the town of
Bakhmut.
Bakhmtjt, on river Bakhmut, a
small affluent of the N. Donets. Pop.
10,000.
This town was founded in the latter
part of the 17th centy., when salt
springs were discovered near the river.
The salt-works were closed in 1782.
A fortress was constructed here in
1703. In 1783 Bakhmut was made the
chief town of a district in the prov. of
Ekaterinoslaf. Large quantities of coal
are found on the N. Donets. . The
extension of the railway will probably
convert Bakhmut into a wealthy mining
district.
Taganrog, on coast of Sea of Azof.
Pop. 42.000.
History. — Although Taganrog was
only founded in the reign of Peter the
Great, the history of the province of
Ekaterinoslaf, in which this great mer-
cantile city is situated, is full of events
bearing on the fate of the present
empire of Russia. The Sea of Azof
was known to the ancients as the
Palus MaBotis, but they had very
vague notions of its true form and size.
The earlier geographers thought that
both it and the Caspian Sea wen!-
gulfs of the great N. Ocean. This
idea must have been dissipated by the
Milesians, who, in the 5th centy. b.c.,
founded the town of Tanais on the N.
side of the S. mouth of the Tanais or
Don, at a little distance from the sea,
and made it a very flomishing em-
porium, which reduced to subjection
several of the neighbouring tribes of
Scythians, known by the coUective
name of MfiBotsB, or MsBotici ; but in
its turn it became subject to the kings
of Bosporus. It was destroyed by
Polemon, on account of an attempted
revolt, and, though afterwards re-
stored, it never regained its former
prosperity. Later the Genoese settled
on the same spot, and called their
town Tana^ which was however de-
stroyed by Tamerlane in 1395.
The site of the ancient Tanais and
Tana is now occupied by the town-
let of Azof, which was taken by
the Russians from the Turks, who suc-
ceeded the Grenoese, in 1769. Other
Greek colonies existed along the coast
of the Palus Mseotis, but little or
nothing is known of their history. All
trace of them was destroyed by the
wild hordes from Asia when they swept
through the present province of Eka-
terinoslaf to destroy the Roman Empire
of the West. For several centuries the
country between the estuary of the Bug
and the Caspian Sea was occupied by
wild tribes of Khasars, Pechenegians,
and Polovtses, who are frequently men-
tioned throughout this b(X)k as invad-
ing the old principalities of Russia.
In the 13th cent}*, came the Mongols,
who, after ravaging Persia, marched
over tiie Caucasus into Europe. The
Russian princes who opposed them were
utterly routed in 1224 on the river
Kalka, now called Kalmius, near the
present town of Mariupol, Thus the
present province of Ekaterinoslaf was
the scene of the first conflicts between
the Slavonian races and the Tartars,
who soon after under Baty committed
the most dreadful ravages all over
Russia. When the Mongol hordes
Bcmte 15. — Taganrog.
271
separated into three independent
khanates, namely, those of Kazan,
Astrakhan, and the Crimea, the pro
vince of Ekaterinoslaf probably be-
longed to the latter khanate. In the
latter part of the 15th centy. the Mon-
gols were driven out of Russia, and
John the Terrible took from them the
kingdoms of Kazan and Astrakhan,
leaving them only in possession of the
Crimean peninsula, which they con-
tinued to hold under the suzerainty of
the Turks until the reign of Catherine
II.
The country which they had vacated
north of the Perekop was then taken
possession of by colonists from Little
Kussia, who formed themselves into
miKtaiy brotherhoods under the name
of Cherkesses (Circassians) and Zaporo-
gians ; the latter appellation, signifying
" dwellers beyona the rapids, being
derived from the circumstance of their
having first settled below the rapids of
the Dniepr. They were frequently
attacked by the Crim or Crimean
Tartars, and the possession of the pro-
vince of Ekaterinoslaf continued to be
disputed until the middle of the 18th
centy., when, after many encounters
with the Turks, the Turco-Tartar
holders of the province met with a
severe blow in the taking of the fortress
of Azof by the troops of Peter the
Great in 1 696. The fortress was, how-
ever, surrendered to the Turks in 1711
by the convention made on the Pruth.
By the Treaty of Belgrade, 1739, the
Sultan of Turkey ceded' to Russia
the steppes between the Bug and the
Donets. But they were of little use
until the Empress Elizabeth caused
measures to be adopted for populating
the steppes and checking tne lawless-
ness of the Zaporogian Cossacks, who
robbed friend and foe alike. Georgians,
Bulgarians, Wallachians, and Greeks
joined the regiments that were formed
for the purpose of protecting the then
frontier of Russia against the Turks
and Tartars.
Between 1740 and 1750 a large
body of Servians, under Colonel Hor-
vat, dissatisfied with Austrian rule
under Maria Theresa, emigrated to the
northern part of the provii^oe of Ekft-
terinofilaf, and, forming a regiment,
established their headquarters in the
fortified town of Bakhmut. The Ser-
vians were followed by Little Russians
and Hungarians. Their settlements
were protected by fortifications which
were constantly kept in a state of
defence. In 1760 the N. part of Ekan
terinoslaf was dotted with military
colonies which were called collectively
Slavo-Serma^ of which Bakhmut was
tile capital. Slavo-Servia was divided
into regiments, and these again into
companies, each having its own chief.
The Empress Catherine, however,
caused General Horvat to be removed
from his command, and the Slavo-
Servian colonies were converted into
ite province of Ekaterinoslaf, with a
new form of administration. This
lasted until 1768, when Russia went
to war again with Turkey, and the
Nagay and Crimean Tartars, led by
Kerim-Girey, devastated the province
with fire and sword. Azof, Taganrog,
Kinbum. and the whole of the country
between the Bug and the Dniepr, were
restored to Russia by the Treaty of
Kuchuk-Kainardji, and the Crimea
became independent of Turkey.
In 1774 Prince Potemkin was ap-
pointed Governor of New Russia. He
found the S.W. part of the province of
Ekaterinoslaf occupied by the Zaporo-
gian Cossacks, who had not assisted
Russia in the previous war with the
Turks, and, following the occupation of
freebooters, had prevented the peaceful
colonization of the country. This caused
the Empress Catherine to order the oc-
cupation of their capital or Setch in 1775,
and the steppes along the left bank
of the Dniepr were incorporated with
the then province of Azof. In 1778
Ekaterinoslaf, now the capital of the
province, and Kherson, were founded,
while the Greek colonists built the
town of Mariupol. Suvorof was about
the same time sent to the Crimea to
keep the Tartars in order. Their
attempt to rise in 1782 led to the
annexation of the Crimean peninsula
and Russia became for ever freed from
its old and most inveterate enemies.
A dreadful visitation of the plague
was the last Qvent^in^Q long list of
272
Boute 15. — Taganrog.
Sect. IT.
misfortunes to which this part of Russia
has heen subjected.
With the view of increasing the
population of the now peaceful pro-
vince, colonies of Mennonites from
Prussia were established in the heart
of the country of the Zaporogians.
The province of Ekaterinosli^ was con-
stituted in its present extent under
the reign of Alexander I. in 1802.
Havmg thus traced the history of
the province in which Taganrog is
situated, it is time to speak of the town
itself. Its site was chosen in 1696,
when Peter the Great sent there an
engineer to build a harbour capable
of containing 200 small vessels, and
to be protected by a fort. In 1698
the Voevod Tolstoy was appointed
Governor, and the town began to grow
in size and importance ; but a visita-
tion of the plague, in 1704, destroyed
the greater part of the inhabitants.
These were, however, soon replaced by
new settlers, principally Russians, and
an emigrant from Ragusa established
the first mercantile house, which lasted
until 1712, when, in accordance with
the stipulations of the treaty made with
the Turks on the Prutii, the harbour
and fort of Taganrog were levelled
with the ground, and the inhabitants
removed. In 1769 a fresh war with
Turkey enabled Russia to build a new
fort at Taganrog, and in 1770 the
neighbourhood of the old town began
to be populated. Considerable num-
bers of Greeks from the Archipelago
and the Morea, most of whom had
served under Prince Orlof-C5hesmen-
ski, occupied the lands between the
northern shore of the Azof and the
estuary of the Mius, and now form
the principal part of the population of
Taganrog. Tne great event in the
modem nistory of Taganrog is the
death there of the Emperor idexander
I. (1825) while on a tour of inspection
through the southern provinces of the
empire.
Trade, — Of the three principal ports
of the Sea of Azof, Tapnrog, Rostof,
and Mariupol, the first is the most con-
siderable, notwithstanding many dis-
advantages, such as the shallowness of
its roadstead (vessels having to anchor
at a distance of 15 to 25 miles from
the landing-place), and the absence
hitherto of communication by good
roads with the interior of the country.
Nevertheless it is the seat of a custom-
house of the first-class. The principal
articles of export in 1866 were : wheat,
1,184,000 qra. ; rye, 95,000 qrs. ; lin-
seed, 193,000 qrs.; wool, 6,734,000
lbs.; tallow, 102,000 cwt., &c., the
produce principally of the provinces of
Ekaterinoslaf and Kharkoff, and of the
coimtry of the Don Cossacks. The im-
ports are coffee, oil, wine, fruit, &c., from
Turkey, Greece, Italy, &c., viz. from
the countries which have harbours on
the Mediterranean. The annual value
of the exports between 1862 and 1866
has been estimated by H.B.M. Consul
at Taganrog at about 3 millions ster-
ling, and the imports at less than half
a million sterling ; while the average
number of vessels employed in the
carriage of those goods between the
above dates was 755, of which 163
were under British colours, the latter
having come to the port chiefly in bal-
last for the purpose of loading wheat,
&c.
Topography. — The finest houses are
situated in Peter or Bolshaya (Great)
str. There are 4 large squares in the
town, and in one of them stands the
inevitable " Gostinnol Dvor" or Bazaar
of all Russian towns. Of the 9 Russo-
Greek chs., the largest is the Cathedral
of the Assumption,
The Gredc Monastery of Jerusalemy
under the jurisdiction of tiie Patriarch
of Jerusalem, is one of the finest eccle-
siastical buildings in Taganrog. The
body of the Emperor Alexander I. was
laid there until its removal to St.
Petersburg. The most remarkable
buildings, &c., in the town are — 1, the
Palace^ a large stone house, in which
Alexander I. died ; the room in which
the monarch breathed his last is reli-
giously preserved in the exact state in
which he left it, and may be seen.
2, the Monument to Alexander I.,
erected 1831 by the citizens, with the
assistance of members of the imperial
family. It stands near the Greek
monastery, and consists of a colossal
Eussia.
Boute U.—Niholaef.
273
bronze statue of ihe emperor on a
granite pedestal; it was designed by
Martos. 3, the Granite quay, for
coasting vessels. 4, the stone Stair-
case leading to the Exchange. 5, the
Theatre, 6, the Exchange. 7, the
Government Garden, laid out in 1806,
the principal promenade of the inhabit-
ants. There are two other gardens
outside the town, " Elizabeth's Park "
and " Peter's Grove of Oaks." The
former is about 8 v. &om the town, and
the latter not more than 5 v. There
is in reality nothing to see at Taganrog
beyond the house in which Alexander
I. died. The town is neat and tidy,
but the dust is terrific.
Steamers. — The steamers of the
Russian Steam Navigation Company
ply between Odessa and Taganrog
twice a week, touching at the other
ports in the Sea of Azof, &c. (Fare to
Odessa about 40 roubles, including
living.) Steamers also keep up the
communication between Taganrog and
the mouth of the Don (a passage of
about 4 hrs.), where travellers proceed-
ing to Rostof are transshippea into a
steamer of lighter draft, which reaches
the latter town in about 4 hrs. more.
The route from Bostof to ihe Volga,
&c., and the town itself, are descried
in Rte. 18.
ROUTE 16v
ODESSA TO THE ORIMXA OVEBLAND,
NIKOIiAEF AMD KHEB80N.
BY
The overland route to the Crimea
lies through a flat and dreary country,
offering no coDMwnsation for its many
discomforts. The sea route should ha
preferred, but for the benefit of those
who might desire to pay a preliminary
visit to Nikolaef and Kherson, or to
travel on thence to the Perekop, the
following information is subjoined.
The voyage from Odessa to Niko-
laef wUl be performed in one of the
steamers of the Russian Steam Navi-
gation Company which leave Odessa
3 times a week. Fare 4^ and 3 rs.
Starting at 8 a.h. the steamer will
reach at 5 p.m. the port of
Nikolaef, at the junction of the
Ingul with the Bug. (Pop. 46,000.)
JTofeZ— bad.
History, &c. — The more ancient
history of the coast on either side of
Nikolaef wUl be read at Kherson. It
will in the mean while suffice to tell
the traveller here that the site of
Nikolaef was first occupied by various
emigrants after the destruction of the
Cossack Seteh or Republic in 1775.
In 1789 the town obtained its present
name in commemoration of the taking
of Otchakof on the 6th (18th) Decem-
ber, the feast-day of St. Nicholas. It
was from the first destined to be the
harbour of the Black Sea fieet, the
position of Kherson and Sevastopol
having been found unsatisfactory. The
first fngate was built and launched at
Nikolaef in 1790, and a very great
number of people were brought there
and made to work in the dockyards.
Prince Potemkin contemplated deep-
ening the Ingul and many oliier great
works, but he died before he could
carrv out his plans.
The town covers an immense extent,
each house being generally of one
story, with large gardens attached to it,
and ^ streets are of enormous width.
274
Boule 16. — Kherson,
Sect. II.
The rivers Ingul and Bug form a fine
estuary, in which during winter the
vessels of the Black Sea fleet are sta-
tioned. The Boulevard, near the
river, is well planted, and forms a
shrubbery to the water's edge. This
and other improvements were effected
under the administration of Admiral
Greig, Commander of the Bussian
naval forces in the Black Sea, and
son of Admiral Greig, who won for
the Russians the naval battle of
Ghesm^. The objects most worthy of
notice are the dockyards. The Ob-
servatory is situated a short distance
from the town; the view from its
roof is very fine. The large barracks
for seamen were built by an English
architect, while the house in which
the governor lives was erected by
Prince Potemkin. Among the finest
buildings of Nikolaef is its cathedral,
dedicated to St. George, with an altar-
screen painted by an Italian artist.
It has also a theatre, and many fine
public institutions, which render it,
next to Odessa, the handsomest town
of New Russia. The annual exporta-
tion of wheat from Nikolaef is valued
at a little more than a million and a
half of roubles, and there is a consi-
derable trade in timber, cattle, tallow,
and leather. The transactions in ma-
nufactured goods are estimated at
1,200,000 rs. per annum.
Since the fall of Sevastopol, Niko-
laef has become the principal naval
station of Russia in tiie Black Sea,
and its increased importance and com-
mercial prosperity have led to the
British Vice-Consulate being removed
there from Kherson.
Ehebsok, on river Dniepr. Pop.
40,000.
The distance overland from Niko-
laef to Kherson is only about 40 m.,
over a steppe country with every now
and then greater or smaller elevations
and numerous tumuli erected by an-
cient inhabitants. The existence of
the Scythians in these parts is attested
by Herodotus, "the Father of History,"
. who visited the country between the
Dniepr and the Dniestr in the mid-
ile of the 6th centy. B.C., leaving a
valuable description of it. From him
we learn that this extremity of Russia
once formed part of Great Scythia,
inhabited by a numerous population,
divided into several tribes more or
less civilized. On the lower course of
the Dniepr, and therefore near the
present city of Kherson, dwelt the
Royal Scythians (principally on the
left bank of the river), and the noma-
dic Scythians; to the west of them,
between the Ingul and the Bug, were
the agricultural Scythians, who were
bounded on the N. by the Neuri,
and by wild cannibals. The coun-
try between the mouth of the Bug
(Hypanis) and that of the Dniestr
(Tyras) was held by the Hellenic-
Scythians or Callipides, who were
bounded on the N. by the Alazoni.
In the days of Herodotus the Scyth-
ians had neither towns nor settlements,
for they led a nomadic life, although
some of the tribes were tillers of the
soil. They wero all gradually driven
back from the sea-coast by the enter-
prising Greeks of Miletus in Asia
Minor, who planted nearly 300 colonies
along the shore of the Euxine. Near
the mouth of the Borysthenes (Dniepr),
and at its junction with the Hypanis
(Bug), lay their capital Olbia, also
called Borysthenes. Herodotus de-
scribes it as surrounded by a wall with
many towers, and as distinguished for
its extensive trade, and the civilization
of its inhabitants. The greater part
of these colonies existed in the early
ages of Christianity, but they were
finally reduced by the Romans, whose
coins, found in considerable numbers,
are principally of the Antonine epoch,
— i.e. of the 2nd and early part of the
3rd centy. a.d. About that timQ the
wild Sarmatians, and later the Goths,
the Huns, and other races, issued out
of the remotest parts of Asia and de-
stroyed all before them, leaving only
the tumuli which the traveller will
see on his way to Kherson, and which
have yielded such inestimable trea-
sures to the Hermitage Museum at
St. Petersburg (vide description).
The date of the arrival of the Slavon-
ian races on the shore of the Euxine
cannot be ascertained with any ac-^
Eussia.
Boute 16. — Kherson,
275
curacy. Mention is made of them on
the Dniepr in the 7th centy. of our era,
and Nestor asserts that Slavonian
towns existed on its banks in his days.
But however this may be, the noma-
dic Khazars, Fechenegians, and Po-
lovtses, must have expelled the pas-
toral Slavonians and laid the country
waste. In the 13th centy. the Mon-
gols passed over the same highway,
and for 550 years made the S. of
Russia their great camping-ground
and basis of operations against the
Russian principalities. When the
Slavonians were driven back into
Russia, the Lithuanian priaces hast-
ened to take possession of the coast,
but they were obliged at last to give
way to the Turks and the Tartars,
from whom the Russians ultimately
conquered their present dominion on
the Black Sea. After many struggles
Russia obtained, in 1791, from the
Turks the province of Otchakof, be-
tween the Bug, Dniestr, and Kodyma.
The restoration of the ancient king-
dom of Greece, and the expulsion of
the Turks, now became the favourite
project of Catheriae, and she at once
devoted all her energies to its realiza-
tion. The steppes were colonized and
the nucleus of a navy was laid on the
spot, which has since become the town
of KLherson — a name given to it under
the then prevalent impression that the
site chosen was that of ancient Kher-
sonesus.
Potemkin began the work with
great ardour, and in a year after
the foundation of the new town the
keel of a 66-gun frigate, "The
Glory of Catherine," was laid in its
dockyard, which had been built with
amazing rapidity under the superin-
tendence of General Hannibal, son of
Ibrahim, the favourite negro godson of
Peter the Great. Potemkin sent no
fewer than 3000 carpenters and a
great number of blacksmiths and other
artizans to the new port. Guns were
cast, and the construction of several
other vessels commenced. In 1782,
Antoine, a merchant of Marseilles,
opened the trade of Kherson, under
special permission. He was followed
by the " Polish Company '* and by
Fabri, an Austrian merchant. In the
midst, however, of its successes, Kher-
son was visited by so dreadful a plague
(1784) that Potemkin was obliged to
interrupt the works in progress, and
to prevent all communication with the
town. His chief reason for hastening
the construction of the new harbour
was a desire to show Catherine, on her
expected visit to the S. of Russia, that
the country from which so many foes
of Russia had issued had become with-
in a short time a Russian stronghold
against the Turks, who were destined
to be sacrificed to the favourite Greek
project of the empress.
Catherine II. performed the joiurney
in 1787, with extraordinary pomp, mak-
ing the world resound with the splen-
dour of her progress through her vast
dominions. From Kief the empress pro-
ceeded down the Dniepr, and at a small
place called Novye Kodaika, a little
above the town of Bkaterinoslaf, she
met the Emperor Joseph II., who
under the title of Count Falkenstein
reached Kherson on the 17th May,
1787, for the purpose of having an
interview with the "Queen of the
North." On the 24th May Catherine
arrived at B^herson with all her suite,
and found there the nephew of the
King of Poland, Prince Stanislaus
Poniatowski, and the Russian ambas-
sador to the Porte, Bulgakof. In a
letter to the governor of Moscow the
empress says, ** We reached this town
yesterday evening. This child did
not exist 8 years ago. First we
passed by the stone barracks of the
6 regiments, then turning to the right
entered the fortress, which will stand
well after it is finiehed this summer,
and wUl be far better than the for-
tress of Kief. Many military build-
ings within the fortress are ready,
others are on the point of bein^-
finished ; the stone church is beautiful.
When I say stone, do not imagine
that I speak of bricks : the only stone
known here is that which is taken
out of the ground and placed on the
walls ; it is stronger than freestone,
and does not attract the damp. Leav-
ing the fortress, we turned into the
Admiralty, where all the storehouses
o 3
276
BoiUe 16. — Berislaf,
Sect rr.
are of gtone, and roofed with iron.
On the stocks we found an 80-gun
ship, which will be launched, God
willing, on Saturday. Next to it is
a 66-gun ship ready, and another of
55 gVLDB. I see them from the window
of the room in which I write. The
garden of this house is next the Ad-
miralty and the wharf. I have not
yet seen the merchants, who occupy a
suburb Besides the military
there are great numbers of people here
from all parts of Europe. I may say
that my intentions in this part of the
country have been carried out to an
extent that deserves the utmost praise.
A zealous care is visible throughout,
and the people chosen are capable."
The empress spent five days in view-
ing the town, and in bestowing rewards.
To commemorate her visit, she caused
the following Slavonic inscription to be
placed over the Cathedral of St. Cathe-
rine : — " Dedicated to the Saviour of
the human race by Catherine II. ;"
while in the garden of the house she
occupied she planted the seed of an
apricot, which has since grown to a
magnificent tree yielding nearly 400
lbs. of fruit. In the same cathedral
she caused her favourite PotemMn to
be buried in 1791, but the Emperor
Paul ordered his remains to be ex-
himied, and to be *^ buried in a hole
under the fioor of the crypt, filling the
crypt with earth, and levelling it as if
It had never existed." Such was the
vengeance of her son on the founder of
Kherson.
To the English traveller Kherson is
of particular interest as the place near
which the body of the philanthropic
Howard reposes . The monument to his
memory stands near the Ch. of the As-
sumption and without the barrier of
Kherson. It is a simple pyramid, with
poplars around it, and is enclosed by a
lugh circular wall with an iron gate in
front. The inscription on it, trans-
lated, is as follows : —
HOWAIO)
died on the 20th January,
in the year 1790,
in the 65th year of his age.
It is sad to say that the monument is
in rather bad repair, and the first letter
of the philanthropist's name has been
obliterated by some mischievous per-
son. His virtues, like his name, have
nearly faded away from the remem-
brance of the local inhabitants ; for the
yamstchik, if asked to whom the monu-
ment has been raised, will in most
cases answer, "To Fovar^ a builder
of towns." Contrary to the generally
accepted account of the death of
Howard from prison-fever, caught in
the zealous discharge of his self-
imposed mission, Dr. Clarke relates
in his travels that in the month of
Nov. 1789, Howard was requested to
visit a Mademoiselle During, who
lived on the banks of the Dniepr, at
the distance of 10 m. from Kherson.
In a light old-fashioned dress, in silk
stockings, and without a great-coat, he
set off on horseback. The day was
windy and cold, and he had a fall by
the way. He caught a cold, which was
followed by a fever, and which ter-
minated in death.
The traveller who wishes to enter
the Crimea by way of Perekop is re-
commended to take, the steamer which
leaves Kherson three times a week for
the towns on the Dniepr, ascending
as high as Nicopol, a town of about 7000
luhao., with a considerable trade in
wheat and hemp. Many Mennonites,
descended from those who emigrated
to Russia from Prussia in 1789, occupy
lands in the vicinity ; their principal
colony, however, being on the river Mo-
lotchna, E. of Nicopol.* The steamer
should be left at
Bebislaf, on 1. bank of Dniepr.
Pop. 6000.
This town was founded by the Turks
in about 1450. In 1696 Peter the
Great took the Turkish fortress of
Kyzi-Kermen, which stood here. It
was called Berislaf in 1784. A third
of the population is composed of Jews,
who carry on a small trade in wheat
and timbsr. The high road to the
* A very interesting description of these
settlers, and generally of the S. of Rtiasia, is
given in Petzholdt's ' Relse In Westlichen und
Siidlichen Kussland Im Jahre 18R5.' Lelpcig,
1864. Digitized DyVJ v.' v^viv^
Boute 17. — Odessa to the Crimea.
27
Crimea passes through the town, and
the fiftations between it and Perekop,
over a dreary plain, are
Kachofka, 5 v.
Tchemaya Dolina, 26 v.
Tchaplinka, 25 v.
Perekop, 82 v. from Bereslaf, and
132 from SimpheropoL Pop. 4000.
The isthmus of Perekop, by which
the Crimea is connected with the con-
tinent of Russia, is about 5 m. broad,
and stretches from the bay of Kar-
kinite on the side of the Black Sea to
the large lake called the Sivash or
Putrid Sea, which again communicates
with the Sea of Azof by the Straits of
Genitchi. The isthmus is defended by
an irregular fortress erected on the S.
side of a deep ditch, and protected by
a high wall built of freestone, stretch-
ing right across the isthmus, which
rises slightly in the middle. The fosse
and the wall are said to have been
formed in ancient times by the in-
habitants of the peninsula to defend
themselves against the incursions of
the nomades of the steppe. The
taphros or ditch of the more ancient
geographers, and the "new wall" of
Ptolemy, lie about 1^ m. S. of Perekop.
The town and fortress were founded
in the latter part of the 15th centy. by
the Tartars. They were taken by the
Bussians first in 1736. In 1738 the
fortress was retaken by the Bussians,
and blown up. Khan Krim-Ghirey
repaired the fortifications, but the
greater part of the inhabitants, mostly
Armenians and Greeks, having suffered
much from both Bussians and Tartars,
removed 5 m. S. of Perekop, and founded
the colony of Armianski-Bazar, now a
suburb of Perekop. In 1771 the lines
of Perekop were stormed once more by
the Bussians, and the town was finally
incorporated with the empire in 1783.
At the present time there is a bridge
across the fosse, and a stone gateway,
which presents rather an interesting
appearance as seen from the N. In
Armianski-Bazar, which is now the
principal part of Perekop, is a mosque
with two minarets, and a Bussian and
an Armenian ch.
From Perekop the post-road runs
oyer an arid steppe, and is marked by
handsome stone columns indicating
the versts, which were placed there
when Catherine 11. made her memor-
able visit to the Crimea in 1787. The
stations to Simpheropol are : —
Ushun, 24 v.
Dyurmen, 21 v.
Aibar, 24 v. At this station the
Tchatyr Dagh bursts in view.
Ablan, 22 v.
Sarabnz, 22 v.
SiMFHEBOFOL, 19 V. For description
of this town, and routes leading from
it, vide following route. — Odessa to the
Crimea.
BOUTE 17.
ODESSA TO THE CRIMEA BY SEA; EUFA-
TORIA TO KEETCH, AND EXCURSIONS
THROUGH THE CRIMEA.
In summer the steamers of the Bus-
sian Steam Navigation Company leave
Odessa twice a week for the ports of
the Crimea between Eupatoria and
Kertch, pearforming the entire voyage
to Kertch in little more than 48 hours.
On their return they touch at the same
ports according to a time-table which
is published at Odessa. They are very
comfortably fitted up with a ladies'
cabin, gentlemen's cabin, and a saloon
containing a library and a piano ; and
there will generally be found on board
278
Boute 17. — Eupatorta — Sevastopol,
Sect. n.
an officer speaking Englifih. The bV-
ing is good, but the charges, which are
inclusive of board, are rather high, the
fare first class to Sevastopol being 17
roubles.
There are no Custom-house formali-
ties to be observed on landing in the
Crimea, as the steamer will not have
touched at any foreign port. .
The traveller may desire to disem-
bark at Eupatoria, which will be
reached after a voyage of about 16
hours.
EupATOBiA, 76 V. N.W. of Simphero-
pol. Pop. 7000.
History, — This town, fiBmaous as
the place near which the Anglo-
French troops landed on the 14th
September, 1854, stands on a sandy
spit on the W. shore of the Black
Sea. Coronit^s, a Greek colony, is
supposed to have existed in the neigh-
bourhood in the days of Herodotus,
or five centuries before Christ. In
the 1st centy. of our era, Diophan-
tus, a general under Mithridates,
founded here a fortress which he called
Eupatoria. At the latter part of the
15th centy. the Turks had a fortress
at Eupatoria, and its name of Gezleve
was later changed by the Bussians to
.Kozlof. As GesMve, it was one of the
most flourishing towns in the Crimea.
It was occupied for the first time by the
Bussians under Field-Marshal Min-
nich in 1736, and later by the troops
under Prince Dolgorukof, 1771. An-
nexed finally to Bussia in 1783, it was
made the chief town of a district in
the province of the Taurida.
The trade of Eupatoria is incon-
siderable, the exports (com, wool, hides,
tallow) not amounting to half a mil-
lion of roubles in value.
There is nothing to be seen at Eupa-
toria except a rather handsome syna-
gogue of the Elaraun Jews, who are
distinguished from other Jews by their
rejecting of the Talmud, and recognis-
ing only the Bible as their authority.
An old mosque, built after the plan of
St. Sophia at Constantinople, is the
only other object of interest. It has
1: cupolas, and no minaret
A.S tho steamer generally remains
about an hour at Eupatoria, the tra-
veller, if so minded, can have a look
at the town, and, returning on board,
continue the voyage to Sevastopol : or
he may procure a podorqjna (order for
post-horses) and take the overland
route to Bokhtchesarai and Sevastopol,
passing through Saki, 15 v. from
Eupatoria, where there are mud-
springs famous for their cures in rheu-
matic and paralytic cases, and through
Alma, Tamak, and Burluk, Tartar vil-
lages. He may also make an excur-
sion hence to the battle-field of Alma,
which is more easily reached from
Eupatoria than from Bakhtchesai-ai.
For description of Alma, vide Excur-
sion 4 (Bakhtchesarai to Simpheropol),
and for that of the battle. Historical
Notice. Although this route would be
preferred by a native traveller, the
English or American tourist wiU
find it easier to land at Sevastopol, and
still better at Yalta, and to make ex-
cursions to Bakhtchesarai, and other
places from thence.
The steamer takes about 5 hours to
proceed from Eupatoria to
Sevastopol, near S.W. point of the
Crimea, 38 m. S.W. of Simpheropol,
190 m. S.E. of Odessa, and 340 m.
N.E. of Constantinople. Pop. 8000..
HoteU : Wetzel's, on the S. side, cleair
and comfortable. The landlord, a
German, speaks English. The charges
are 1 rouble per diem for a room, and
the other items are not dear. The
house communicates with the Boule-
vard, from whence a capital view of
the town, harbour, and various creeks
may be obtained. The house was for-
merly the residence of Admiral Nak-
himof. Kyst's Hotel, second best;
likewise near the landing-place.
Vehicles, — These are rather scarce
and dear. The fare within the town
is 50 copecks per hour. The charge
for a drive to Inkerman and other
places in the vicinity is a rouble and a
half the first hour, and 75 copecks for
the remainder of the time. A bar-
gain may, however, be struck for 6 to
8 roubles a day for a drojky and a
I pair of horses. The driver will begin
I by asking ^'W^^^r^^^^ Biding-
Biissia.
Boute 11. —The Crimea.
279
horses may also bo procured. As
Sevastopol is much firequented in sum-
mer, the traveller will easily find a
party of his own countrymen bent on
the same excursions as himself, and
ready to share their cost.
Guides. — These will be obtained at
the hoteL Spiro, who has been placed
in charge of the English graveyards,
knows the position of all those sad
mementoes of the war. He speaks
Italian, Bnssian, and Greek, but his
English is very imperfect. Several
Jew factors will offer their services, as
well as carriages and saddle-horses.
The proprietor of the hotel is always
ready to arrange these matters for
travellers.
History, — Before learning the his-
tory of Sevastopol, the traveller will
desire to have a general sketch of the
history of the peninsula itself.
The Crimea, or the Taurida, an-
cientljr called the Khersonesus Tau-
rica, IS a peninsula in the Black Sea,
occupying an area of S64 square geo-
graphical miles exclusive of the Si-
vash or Putrid Sea, by which it is
almost cut off on the E. and N. from
the Russian continent It is one of
the few parts of Russia that were
known to the ancients, and the first
mention of it is in connection with the
expedition of the Argonauts and the
Trojan War. The remoter inhabitants
of the peninsula were the almost fabu-
lous Cimmerians, and then the Tauri,
who are supposed by some authorities
to have lived in the caves which are
still to be seen on the hill-sides about
Inkerman. Stone monuments, similar
iu character to the druidical remains
in other parts of Europe, are likewise
attributed to the same people, who
were driven back to the hills by
the Scythians who came down from
the north, and eventually became
known as the Tauric Scythians.
The Greeks, who, as we have already
seen at Kherson, established their
colonies along the shore of the Euxine
about the 6th centy. B.C., kept up
a continual warfare with the abori-
genes. In the Ist centy. a.c, Mithri-
dates the Great, the famous King of
Pontufl, defeated the Tauric-Scythians,
and made the Greek colonies of the
Taurida subject to his rule. He was
compelled to put an end to his life
(a.d. 63) by his son Pharnaces, who,
having hastened to make his submis-
sion to Pompey, received from him the
kingdom of the Bosporus, with the
titl^ of friend and ally of l^e Roman
people. It was after a battle gained
later by CsBsar over Phamaces near
Zela (in Asia Minor) that the former
wrote the celebrated despatch to the
Senate of Rome, — "Veni: Vidi:
Vicl"
At the downfall of the Roman em-
pire, Taurida, with its Greek colonies,
became part of the Empire of the East.
The great migration of nations threw
a certain number of Huns into the
peninsula, which was later occupied
by the Eliazars. At the same time
the greater part of the seabord re-
mained in the hands of the Byzan-
tines. In 988 Vladimir Prince of
Kief conquered Khersonesus, and
there embraced the Christian religion,
which had been only partially intro-
duced into Russia by Olga his grand-
mother in 955. Next came tlie
Polovtses, and lastly, in the 18th
centy., the greater -pari of the penin-
sula was conquered by the Tartars.
During the same age, however, the
Venetians and Genoese penetrated to
the Black Sea, and founded colonies
on its coast. Their principal settle-
ment was Kafia, now callea Theodo-
sia. The Genoese were strong enough
to keep the Tartars in check until the
15th centy., when the latter consti-
tuted themselves into a distinct
"Horde," and placed themselves under
the suzerainty of the Turks, who had
by this time taken Constantinople. By
a common effort, in 1475, they put
an end to the dominion of the Genoese
in the Taurida. The Turks established
themselves at the seaports, and the
Tartars occupied the hills and the
interior of the peninsula.
The Tartar city of "Eski-Krim,"
now called ** Stary (old) Krim," 23 v.
from Theodosia, was a place of great
celebrity even in the 14th centy., and
the Horde continued to exist under the
dynasty of the Ghireys untit5flto end
280
Boute 17. — Sevastopol.
Sect. n.
of the 18ih centy. The traveller will
have read in many pages of this
Handhook of the dreadful inoursioiis
of the Crimean and other Tartars,
and how they overran and held a
considerable part of South Bussia.
The troops of Catherine 11. began
to drive them back in 1736, and in
1771 Greneral Dolgorukof occupied
the whole of the peninsula with his
army, and caused Shagin Ghirey to
be elected khan under the suzerainty
of Bussia. Kertch and Yenikale
were then wrested from the Turks
by the Treaty of Kuchuk Kainardji,
1774. In 1782 the Tartars rose
against their khan, the vassal of
Bussia, and the Turks endeavoured
to regain possession of the penin-
sula, which was thereupon occupied
by the Bussian troops, and formally
annexed to the empire on the 20th
April, 1783. Some of the descendants
of the old khans are now officers in
the Bussian army. One of them was
educated in Scotland, and married a
Scotchwoman. In 1784 the peninsula
constituted the province of Taurida
and in 1802 it was made a " govern-
ment," a term which has been through-
out this book rendered by the word
** province."
Ever since its annexation to Bussia
the Crimea has been an object of great
solicitude to the Bussian government,
and, on the completion of the rlys.
now in course of construction, its im-
portance will still further be in-
creased, notvrithstanding the present
powerless condition of SevastopoL
The want of water is a great draw-
back to the Crimea. It is intersected
by 49 small rivers and rivulets, but all
of them are so small as to be fordable
except after the melting of the moun-
tain snows, or a very heavy fall of
rain. There are about 400 salt lakes,
of which the richest in salt are those
near the Perekop. Vegetation is only
luxuriant in Ihe hilly parts of the
Crimea. The oak, beech, and pine
cover cdl the hill-sides, while in the
valleys and on the S. coast the laurel,
cypress, and many acclimatized species
abound. The friiit of the Crimea is
celebrated, and its vineyards now
yield an average of 27,000 hogsheads
of wine (600,000 vedros). Although
wheat, rye, and other com are grown,
agriculture is not so generally pursued
as cattle r grazing and sheep -farm-
ing. Merino sheep were introduced
in 1804, and the breed has been well
kept to this day. The climate of the
peninsula is very healthy, except in
some of the valleys, where the air
does not circulate so freely, and its
mean . annual temperature is as fol-
lows ; —
Simpheropol + 1° 1' K. (about 48© F.)
Sevastopol + lO^ 0' R. (about 550 F.)
The mean temperature of those
places in summer is severally + 15° 6'
and + 18° 1' B., or 67° and 73° F.
The annual rainfaU at Simpheropol
is 14'83 inches, and at Sevastopol
7*67 inches.
But to revert to Sevastopol. Its
history, prior to the memorable siege,
may be told in a very few WOTds.
When the Crimea was annexed to
Bussia, Catherine ordered an expedi-
tion to be sent round the coast for the
purpose of surveying the bay of Ak-
tiar, or "White Bock," where the
Tartars had a small village. Yice-
Admiral Elokachef entered the bay
with the Azof flotilla, which he com-
manded, and, having reported favour-
ably of its capabilities, Bear-Admiral
Mackenzie, one of the many English-
men in the Bussian service, and later
Colonel Upton, were charged with the
construction of a military harbour.
With great activity the former con-
struct^ barracks, storehouses, a navy
yard, and an hospital, the materials
used in their construction being the
historical stones of KJiersonesus. In
1784 the empress ordered the port to be
called Sevastopol.*
• A note to Mr. H. D. Seymour's work say^—
** Sevastopol or Sevastopolis, is composed of two
Greek words ' Sebastos,^ meaning Augustus, and
' polls ' a dty ; and it was the name of a Greek
city or the Lower Empire on the eastern coast of
the Black Sea in Abkhazia." Dr. Chamock is of
opinion that the name means ''Sovereign" or
" most sacred cily." In his work entitled * Local
Etymology,' London, 1858, the e^maology of
many Russian geographloiil names will be
found. Digitized by*VJwwvi^
Eussia.
BotUe 17. — Sevastopol.
281
In 1787 she passed two days there
together with the Emperor Joseph
II., who had accompanied her from
Kherson. At a great outlay of money,
Sevastopol became, under successive
sovereigns, one of the finest military
harbours in Europe. The traveller wiU
now proceed to inspect its ruins.
A large bay divides Sevastopol into
two parts — the northern and the
southern. On the left or northern
side the traveller will see, on steaming
up the bay, some of the fortifications,
and particularly the gigantic Fort
Constantine, of 3 stories. There also
will be seen a few houses and build-
ings, which have for the most part been
raised during and since the war. The
town lies on the rt. side of the narrow
creek on the S., which runs parallel
with the great or northern bay. On
the 1. or Korabelnaya side of the
creek were once the docks, barracks,
hospital, &c., now a mass of ruins.
The steamer wiU bring up at the
entrance of the southern creek, near
to what was formerly known as the
"Grafskaya Pristan," or "Count's
Landing Place" — ^broad stone stairs,
leading down to the water's edge, with
a pavilion above, formed of 2 rows of
white columns," covered in at the top.
A splendid view of the sea is obtained
from the top of these stairs, and if the
night be moonlit the tourist will be
attracted to the spot by the wonderful
beauty of the scene. Near the stairs
will be seen the ruins of Fort Nicholas,
which once had 3 ranges of bastions,
one above the other, and was moimted
with 260 cannon, the fire of which was
intended to cross that of the batteries
of the Admiralty. A short distance
from here are the two hotels already
mentioned, and the office of the Russian
Steam Navigation Company.
On landing, the traveller will find
himself surrounded by ruins. The
first object that will strike him will be
a badly designed Monwment to Kazarski,
a Bussian naval commander, who, in
1828-29, captured 2 Turkish frigates
which had attacked his brig. It stands
on the Boulevard^ at the end of which
will be seen the walls of a large house,
once the " Assembly Hall of the No-
bility.'* Past the boulevard (on which
the traveller will find a restaurant) the
town continues to present itself in a
mass of ruins, with here and there a
house rebuilt. Not far from the end
of the boulevard, on a slight elevation,
is a large Ch., dedicated to 8t. Vladi-
mir, in course of construction. In it
are buried the Bussian admirals,
Lazaref, Komilof, Istomin, and Nak-
himof. The first-named died 3 years
before the siega A monument to the
3 defenders of Sevastopol will be
erected later within the ch.
The town spreads along the whole
of the southern bay, and rises gradually
towards the S. Beyond its further
houses begin the ruins of its fortifica-
tions and batteries, the trenches of the
besiegers, their exploded mines, &c.
Most of these works have been filled
up and levelled, but it is still easy to
distinguish where the Russian earth-
works and bastions terminated, and
where the siege-works and batteries of
the allies b^an. The centre of the
Bussian line of defence was the
" Fourth Bastim" or Flagstaff Bat-
tery, now a gentle elevation which
will be pointed out by the cicerone.
Most of the miaes were directed
against it.
From the highest point of this ele-
vation a fine view of Sevastopol will
be obtained.
In order to get to the Malakhof
Tower f the traveller will have to drive
round the whole of the S. side, past
the huge ruins of the Naval Barracks
and Hospital. It stands at the end of
what was then the Korabelnaya Sldbo-
da, or village, marked by the monument
to Admiral Lazaref. Its capture by
the French on the 8th September, 1855,
decided the &te of Sevastopol No
fewer than 30,000 Bussians are said
to have perished in its defence during
the siege. Outside the Malakhof are
the ruins of the Yellow Tower, which
was at first the only work that pro-
tected the Malakhof £ur^<m, or Mound.
During the first bombardment all its
guns were dismounted, and then were
erected those formidable earthworks
which became the key to Sevastopol.
The lower tier df ^l^4^1b%Tower is
282
Boute 17. — Sevastopol.
Sect. n.
still partly preseryed. An unex-
ploded mine will be pointed out in it.
Here the siege-works of the French
will be tra^. They are partly
filled up, and are all oyererown with
prickly plants. It will be remem-
bered that Admiral Komilof was
killed on the Malakhof, which was ao
called after a warrant - officer of the
Bussian navy, who in peaceful days
made the Kurgan his fayourite walk,
and subsequently committed suicide
there, leaying his name to be borne by
a marshal of France. In front of the
Kurgan is a slight eminence which
was once the Kamchatka Bedoubt,
The Sedan, Great and LitOe (3rd and
2nd bastions), will be distinguished in
the neighbourhood by their monu-
ments. Their description, and that of
the other works on this side, must be
left to the guide, whose chronology
may be checked by a reference to the
historical notice.
At the foot of the great stairs the
tourist will find a ferry-boat in which
he can cross oyer to the N. side, and
yiew the Bussian cemetery, the most
prominent object in which is the huge
grey pyramid (105 ft. high) sur-
mounted by a cross, raised to the
memory of the troops who fell in
defence of the city. The interior of
the pyramid is conyerted into a chapel,
where prayers will be offered for the
repose of the souls totalled up in
thousands on the black boards outoide.
On the terrace in front are some
English guns taken from the Turks
at Balaclaya. The monument to
Prince Gortchakoff", the Commander-
in-Chief of the Bussian forces in the
Crimea, and who died at Warsaw in
1861, is in this cemetery. It is in the
form of a chapel which contains holy
images and the marble bust of the
Prince, with an inscription to the
effect that *' he died at Warsaw, and
desired that his body should be buried
amidst those defenders of their country
who did not permit the enemy to enter
their fatherland farther than the place
where their g^rayes now stand."
After rambling about the ruins, and
yiewing both sides of Seyastopol during
*he first day of his arriyal, tiie English
traveller will probably wish to yisit
some of the British cemeteries. A de-
scription of these, and of the several
excursions to be made in the Crimea,
is subjoined, in the following order : —
1. The British cemeteries.
2. Drive to Khersonesus, French
cemetery, monastery of St. George, and
Balaclava.
3. Seyastopol to Bakhtchiseurai, pass-
ing through the valley of Inkerman.
4. Bakhtchisarai to Simpheropol,
crossing the viJley of the Alma.
5. Sevastopol to Alupka, thi-ough
the valley of Baidar.
6. Alupka to Yalta, through Li-
vadia.
7. Yalta to Alushta.
8. Alushta to Simpheropol, and
ascent of the Tchatyr-Dagh.
9. Simpheropol to Theodosia, via
Karasu Bazar and Stary-Erim.
10. Alushta to Theodosia and Kertcli.
Some travellers will prefer making
Yalta their headquarters, going there
direct by steamer in 30 hrs. from
Odessa. The excursions would then
be: — 1. from Yalta to Sevastopol; 2.
from Sevastopol to Bakhtchisc^i, by
way of Mangup Kale; 3. thenoe to
Simpheropol ; 4. back to Yalta by way
of the Tchatyr-Dagh ; and 5. Yalta to
Eertch. The information conveyed in
the following sketches of the excur-
sions from Seyastopol will, however,
enable the traveller to take the Yalt**
route should he prefer it.
1, — The British Cemeteries,
In order to assist the traveller in
finding these, we cannot do better than
refer him to the following extract
from a Beport made to H. M. Govern-
ment by Mr. Consul Eldrige in Nov.
1861.* *'The number of cemeteries
of British officers and men who fell
during the war of 1854, 1855, and
1856, which I have been able to dis-
cover in the neighbourhood of Sevas-
• The Report, printed by H. M. Government,
gives an alphabetical list of the officers and
privates whose names are recorded on the
monuments, and also shows in what group each
Bussia.
Boute 17. — Khersonems,
283
topol, Balaclava, Kadikoi, Karani, and
Kamara is 126 ; they are spread over
a space of ground measuring about
12 m. from E. to W,, and about 8 m.
from N. to S., and they extend in the
form of an amphitheatre from the
heights of Inkerman, passing through
the old camps of the British army,
near the British headquarters, towards
the monastery of St. George, through
the villages of Karani, Kadikoi, and
Balstclava, to Kamara. They contain
nearly 600 monuments of various kinds,
from handsome marble slabs, obelisks,
&c., to humble wooden crosses and
boards: of these latter many have
fallen down, and still more have their
inscriptions effaced by the effects of
time and weather ; of these no descrip-
tion has been taken, or of the smaller
stones from which the inscriptions have
disappeared."
In order to identify the several
cemeteries, Mr. Consul Eldrige has
divided them into the following groups
from A to K :— " Group A includes
the cemeteries on the northern slope
of the field of Inkerman towards the
river Tchemaya, and contains 12 ceme-
teries. Group B includes those im-
mediately on the field of the battle of
Inkerman, from the monument to
where the Second Division was en-
camped in Nov. 1854, including the
graveyard of the 49th Regiment in a
small ravine to the right, and it con-
tains 8 graveyards. Group C includes
the graveyards in the immediate vi-
cinity of the old windmill, so well
known to all who were in the Crimea;
this group contains 6 graveyards.
Group D extends from the trenches in
front of the Bedan, through the camp
of the Light Division to beyond the
military road, and may be said to be
bounded to the E by the Victoria Re-
doubt, and to the W. by the Woronzoff
Road, and includes 12 cemeteries.
Group E comprises the cemeteries in
the ravine that runs through the camp
of the Second Division from the Wo-
ronzoff Road to the railway; it is
bounded to the N. and E. by the
Woronzoff Road, and to the W. by
Cathcart's Hill, and contains 11 grave-
y^ards. Group F, ox Cathcart's Hill
group, embraces the whole of the
ground occupied by the camps of
the Third and Fourth Divisions, and
by the Naval Brigade ; it contains 23
cemeteries. Group G runs along the
heights overlooking the plains of Bala-
clava, past headquarters, towards the
monastery of St. George, and contains
10 cemeteries. Group H commences
in the plains of Balaclava, includes
the villages of Kadikoi and Karani, to
the monastery of St. George, and in-
cludes 24 graveyards. Group I com-
prises the immediate neighbourhood
of Balaclava ; there are 15 graveyards
in this group. Group K comprises
the positions occupied by the High-
land Division at Kamara in 1855 and
1856, and numbers 4 cemeteries. In
addition to the above 10 groups, there
is a graveyard used by the fleet on
the N. side of Kazatch Bay, which by
its isolated position could not be classi-
fied with the other cemeteries."
2. — Drive to KJiersonesus, French Ceme-
tery, Monastery of St. George^ and
Balaclava.
This vrill be a long da/s work, and
the tourist must start early. He will
first cross a small valley which runw
up from one of the creeks, and then
turn round the head of what was
formerly " Quarantine Bay." On the
road thence to B^hersonesus, which is
only about 3 m. from Sevastopol, a large
cemetery will be passed. This was
the burying-ground of the Russians
before the Crimean war, and it re-
mained in the hands of the French
during the siege. A large ch. stands
in the centre of it. A little beyond,
the tourist will come to some ancient
wells with which the history of the
ridns before him is intimately con-
nected.
Khkrsonests. This ancient city
took its name from the small peninsula
on which it stands, and which was
called by the ancients the Khersonesus
Heracleoticus. The peninsula was
called HeracleotiOg^l>e<M^se its famous
ilt 7 cents, before Christ
city was built
28^
Boute 17. — Khersonems.
Sect. n.
by colonists from Heiaclea, a town on
the opposite coast of the Black Sea*
This little peninsula of a peninsnla is
high and rocky, and is on three sides
surrounded by water, while on the
land side it is cut off firom the rest of
the Crimea by a low valley running
between Inkerman and Balaclava. A
wall which marked its limits may
still be traced running from the Tcher-
naya Betchka, a little above Inker-
man, to Balaclava, for a distance of
.5 m., at the foot of the hills, extending
parallel with the valley on which the
main part of the British army, and
later the division of General Bosquet,
were encamped. The whole of this
enclosure was in ancient times occupied
by the gardens and villas of the in-
}iabitants of Elhersonesus, and the
space within the wall is covered with
ruins, among which the boundary
marks of the fields and gardens, and
the plans of many houses, may still be
distinctly traced, f
The ruins of the town lie on the
promontory between the Quarantine
and Streletska bays, and its limits aro
marked by the remains of a wall which
was carried from the head of Quaran-
tine Bay across the isthmus to the Bay
of Soses, now called Streletska Bay,
where the French landed. It was
nearly 2 m. in length, and built of
limestone 5 or 6 ft. thick. There
were 3 towers, of which the largest
was placed on the top of the isthmus,
and defended the principal gate, a
massive edifice, vaulted, with a guard-
house belonging to it. Part of this
was still standing up to the time of the
occupation of the site by the French.
An inscription was found in the ruins,
which declared the tower to have been
restored about the year 491 a.d. Before
entering within the classic enclosure
of Ehersonesus, the following brief
history of its rise, progress, and fall
should be perused: —
* They first settled themseLves on the pro-
montory netur Kamish Bay, wUch is covered
with the ruins of the first Khersonesus.
t Most of these interesting particulars have
been extracted lh)m Mr. H. D. Seymour's work
< Russia on the Black Sea,' which the traveller
wishing to study the Crimea should not fail to
read,
Stimulated by the success of the
Milesians, who had established them-
selves on tiie small peninsula of Eertch,
the Heracleans endeavoured on their
side to found some colonies in the
Crimea. They turned to the western
part of the Tauric peninsula, and dis-
embarked not far from the celebrated
Cape Farthenik^, and, having beaten
and driven back into the mountains
the savage Tauri,they fixed themselves
in the Heracleotic Khersonese. Thus
was founded the afterwards celebrated
republic of Khersonesus or Kherson.
The Khersonians and the Bosporlans
at PantacapsQum, or Kertch, were con-
tinually at war, until both were united
under the sway of Mithridates the
Great, King of Pontus, who, as we
have already seen, was succeeded by a
son who became a vassal of Rome.
Khersonesus continued to be an iai-
portant place during the greatness and
aecline of the Empire, down to the
epoch when the dispersed Slavonic
tribes were united into one nation
imder Norman princes in the 9th
centy. From that time Khersonesus,
situated about half way between Kief
and Byzantium, was constantly a sub-
ject of dispute between the Russians
and Greeks.
At length, in 988 a.d., it underwent
a famous siege by Vladimir, Prince or
Grand Duke of Kief. "The in-
habitants," says Nestor, ^ shut them-
selves up in the walls of the town,
and Vladimir established his camp on
each side, near the harbour, just within
shot of the said town. The besieged
defended themselves valiantly, yet, as
Vladimir always pressed on the siege,
they began to lose courage, and he
said to them * If you do not surrender,
I swear that I will remain here three
years.' To this threat the besieged
paid no attention, and Vladimir made
his soldiers take up their arms, and
ordered the assault, but, while they
were engaged in it, the Khersonians,
having made a way into the ditches,
took out the earth which the besiegers
had thrown into them to fill them up,
and brought it into the town, and the
more the Bussians threw into the
ditches, the more the besieged too^
Eussia.
BoiUe 17. — Kheraonesus.
285
out of them. But while Yladimir
-was besiesing Kherson, and oonstrain-
ing its iimabitantg, a certain Athana-
sius shot into the enemy's camp an
arrow bearing this advice, 'Tliou
canst stop or turn aside the springs
^hich are behind thee, towards the
east : it is thence that the waters of
the town are brought to us/ At this
news, Vladimir lifted his eyes to
lieaven, and cried out, ' If this be true,
I promise to receive baptism/ And
forthwith he gave the order to stop the
pipes and turn off the water. Soon
the besieged, worn out and djring of
thirst, surrendered, and Yladimir with
his people made his entry into the
town. Vladimir then asked the Em-
perors Basil and Constantine for their
sister Anna in marriage, and she was
granted him on condition of his bap-
tism, and was received into the port
by l^e Khersoniaus, who conducted
her to the palace.
" The baptism of Yladimir took place
in the church of the Holy Mother of
God at Kherson, situated in the midst
of the town on the market-place. It
is here near the ch., by the side of the
altar, that is to be seen to this day
the palace of Yladimir, and that of the
princess. Immediately after the bap-
tism the bishop conducted the princess
for another ceremony, that of mar-
riage. Yladimir ordered to be built
a church in Kherson, on the hill made
-with the earth which the inhabitants
had piled up in the centre of the
town during the siege, which church
may still be seen in our days."
On his return to Kief, Yladimir
determined that all his people should
become Christians, and their conver-
sion accordingly took place, as related
in the Historical Notice. Nestor re-
lates that the prince brought with him
to Kief some priests of Khersonesus the
relics of Si Clement, and his disciple
Phira, and vases and instruments for
burning incense. He also says that
the prince carried away with him two
images of brass and four horses in
metal, which in his time stood behind
the ch. of the Holy Mother of God in
Kief, and were thought by the igno-
rant to be of marble. There is no
mention, however, of the two gates of
Corinthian brass, which he is likewise
said to have carried from Khersonesus.
There is a door in the cathedral of
St. Sophia at Novgorod, which is
called by the Russians '^ the door (or
gates) of Korsun," but the Latin and
Slavonic inscriptions on it disprove
their being of Greek origin. {Vide
Novgorod.)
The Slavonians, to whom ancient
Khersonesus now became subjected,
were followed by the Huns and Kha-
zars, and other wild races, who swept
away most of the Greek colonies of
the Crimea, but the final destruction
of Khersonesus as a cily in the 14th
centy. is attributed to Olgerd, nephew
of Gudemin, the Lithuanian, con-
queror of Kief and of all Southern
Bussia. After its pillage by the
Lithuanians, it remained almost de-
serted ; and when the Turks, in 1475,
took possession of the Crimea, they
only found in it empty houses and
deserted churches, from which they
removed the finest marbles for their
buildings at Constantinople. At the
end of the 16th centy. a traveller
visited the city, which was then called
Sari-Kerman, or the Yellow Castle, on
account of the yellow colour of the
ground, and asserts tiiat it had then
been iminhabited for many centuries.
The ruins,however, of what he calls this
" proud, delicate, and illustrious city,'*
were then wonderful. The wall and
its towers, built of enormous blocks of
hewn stone, were perfect, and a beau-
tiM aqueduct still brought the purest
water. The palace of the kings, itself
as large as a city, with magnificent
entrance eates, continued to exist.
The churches were despoiled because
of their valuable marbles, and the
largest Greek monastery alone re-
mained entire. What the Turks and
the Tartars had, however, spared, was
taken by the Bussianswhen they built
Sevastopol. Sailors were sent to col-
lect materials, and no ancient remains
were respected. The walls and fine
gateways which stiU existed were
pulled down to build the Quarantine,
and when the Emperor Alexander I.
issued orders to stop this vandalism
286
Route 17. — Khersonesus.
Sect. II.
the ruin of everything precious had
been consummated.
It is true that the Russian govern-
ment had previously commissioned an
officer to excavate whatever seemed of
interest in the ruins, and he began by
the churches, three of which he un-
covered, but the last remains of works
of art which were then collected by
Lieut. Kruse, with persevering in-
dustry, disapp^ired after a detach-
ment of soldiers had been lodged in
the ruins for a few years at the time
of the plague.
After this historical prelude, neces-
sarily short, the traveller may be
ushered in among the ruins. The
centre of attraction will be the ch.
which is being built over the ruins of
the ancient cathedral of Khersonesus,
erected by the piety of Vladimir, in
memory of his taking the city, and of
his own conversion to Christianity.
It may have been originally the site
of the Church of the Holy Mother of
God, in which the prince was baptized
jind married. When the cathedral
was discovered, the remains of a semi-
circular apse were visible, and columns
of a fine white crystalline marble,
striped with blue, showed in the nave
of the edifice the positions of the
transepts and the dome. Great By-
zantine crosses ornamented the capitals
of the columns and many parts of
the interior. The whole exterior
wall remained to about the height of
3 or 4 ft., and within its precincts
Lieut. Kruse collected all the columns
and other remains that were found,
the greater part of which were drawn
out of the crypt.
The ruins were unfortunately in-
jured by the French, who later placed
a guard on them; but what remained of
the ancient edifice has been covered in
by the new wall. The marble slab on
the altar of the new ch. belonged to the
original edifice. To the 1., on descend-
ing into the tovm, and close to this
ch., was the market-place, easily re-
cognised by the heap of earth in the
shape of a great tumulus, and with
which an interesting story of ancient
days is connected. In the year 334 or
'^36 A.p., Assand^r, the last King of
the Bosporus, asked in marriage for
one of his sons the daughter of La-
machus, the Stepbanophorus or chief
magistrate of Khersonesus, the most
powerful man in the town, famous for
his riches in gold, silver, slaves, serv-
ing-women, horses, and lands. He
also possessed a house with four courts,
occupying all one quarter of the town,
lying near the exterior part of the
Bay of Soses (now Streletska Bay),
where he had a private door pierced
in the walls of the town, which is the
only one that now remains entire.
Four magnificent . gateways guarded
the approaches to his house, and each
herd of oxen and cows, horses and
mares, sheep and asses, returning
from pasture, had its own particular
entrance and stables.
Glycia, the daughter of Lamachus,
married the eldest son of Assander,
under the express condition that) he
should never return toPanticapaeum, to
visit his father, not even at the hour of
his death. After two years Lamachus
died, and Glycia, the following year,
wished, according to the general cus-
tom, on the anniversary of her father's
death, to give a grand feast to all the
people of Khersonesus, her riches
being sufficient to provide them all
with wine, bread, oil, meat, poultry,
and fish ; and she promised to renew
this festival each year. Her husband,
deeply vexed at such prodigality, pre-
tended to praise her filial affection,
but secretly determined to revenge
himself by seizing this occasion to
hateh a plot against the town, the
citizens of which had inflicted many
injuries on his ancestors, the kings of
Bosporus. He wrote to his father to
send him, from time to time, a dozen
young Bosporians, strong and active,
who were secretly introduced into the
vast palace of Lamachus, by the little
door near the Bay of Soses, and waiteil
in concealment for the next anniver-
sary, in order to seize the town, and
massacre the people, overcome by wine
and good cheer.
A lucky accident caused the trea-
chery to be discovered. On the eve
of the feast, one of the servants of
Glycia, having _ disobeyed her nois^
Bossia.
S(mte 17. — KhersoneMis.
287
tress, was shut up in a distant cham-
ber, which happened to be just above
that in which the Bosporians were
concealed. The loss of her spindle,
which rolled into a hole near the
wall, induced the gixl to lift up a
square of the floor in search of it. She
then saw the Bosporians assembled,
and hastened to inform her mistress.
Glycia then sent for 3 delegates from
the town, and, having made them swear
that, in recompense for her patriotism,
they would, contrary to established
custom, bury her inside the town, she
communicated to them the astounding
news, and gave them directions ,how
to act. She made them celebrate the
festival gaily, as if nothing was to
happen, and only bid each man pre-
pare some faggots and torches. Then,
having drugged her husband's wine,
and escaped from the house with her
maids carrying her trinkets and gold,
she ordered the faggots to be piled
round the house, and fired, and thus
made all the traitors perish in the
liames. The citizens of Khersonesus
wished to rebuild the house of Glycia
at the public expense, but this she
strongly opposed, and, on the contrary,
caused them to heap up every kind of
tilth and i-efuse on the place stained
by treachery, which was ever after
caUed ** the Den of Lamachus."
This monument, more indestructible
than brass or marble, is still there, and,
without knowing the story of Glycia,
the stranger is astonished to find the
rubbish oif all the towns piled on the
top of the plain which borders Stre-
letska Bay, in one of the finest situa-
tions of Khersonesus. On passing
through the little door, which is near
the landing-place outside the walls,
tlie remains of a mole are still to be
seen below the level of the water.
Two statues of brass were raised on
the public place in honour of Glycia,
in one of which she was represented
modestly and carefally attired, receiv-
ing the 3 deputies of thej town, and
in the other she was clothed in war-
rior garments, in the act of avenging
tlie betrayed citizens. At the time
when Oonslantine Porphyrogenitas,
Emperor of Constantinople (a.d. 911-
959), wrote the account fitom which
this has been extracted by Mr. H. I).
Seymour (*Bus8ia in the Black Sea,*
p. 155), every citizen considered it
his duty to keep clean and bright the
inscription which the gratitude of the
city had caused to be engraven upon
her monument.
The remains of a large palace stand
on one side of the small street leading
to the market-place, which is doubt-
less one of those which Nestor men-
tions as being near the Ch. of the
Virgin. Among the ruins the tra-
veller will see crosses of wood recently
erected. These mark the sites of the
other ancient churches that have been
discovered.
One of these, found by Lieut. Eruse,
must have been larger than the cathe-
dral, and built in the form of a Greek
cross, 53 ft. each way. The semi-
circular seats for the clergy were
found entire in the apse, and a coarse
mosaic still existed as a pavement.
This edifice was remarkable, because
it was evidently a beautiful Greek
temple metamorphosed into a Christian
church and bases and capitals of Ionic
columns, and other parts of Greek ar-
chitecture, were buUt into its walls.
Perhaps this had been the Parthenon
of ELhersonesus, dedicated to the
famous Virgin divinity of tiie ancient
Tauri.
The positions of a great number of
streets can be traced, tortuous and
narrow, like those of Eastern towns to
this day, and, as the whole of the
peninsula above described was built
over, we may suppose, continues Mr.
H. D. Seymour, that there existed
here 5000 houses, and 40,000 or 50,000
inhabitants.
The high plain was bordered with
houses, from which steps were cut
into the rock down to the water's edge,
and half way between the two bays,
where the rock naturally slopes down,
were a landing-place and a market;
and there remain a perfect well and
an aqueduct. .There were only 2
springs of water in the Khersonese,
both near Balaclava. Some of the
pipes through which the water from
one of these springs was conducted
288
BofUe 17. — Khersonesua.
Sect. n.
into the city have been excavated, and
it was this conduit that Vladimir cut
when he took the town of Khersone-
sus. The water of the principal
spring was carried in modiem times to
Sevastopol, which for a long time was
only supplied by some wells and small
sources at the extremity of the 8. bay.
Near the modern church of Kher-
sonesus are a small monastery, dedi-
cated to St. Vladimir, and a church of
recent date. The superior lives in the
large house with a green roof.
Within a short distance of the
monastery is the French Cemetery.
It wiQ be remembered that the French
collected the remains of all their slain
and deposited them here. Not fiar
from the cemetery, rising cheerfully
fi^)m the plain, is Brackei^s House, the
head-quarters of the British army, and
in which Lord Raglan died. Close to
this house are the remains of a square
Greek tower.
The traveller wiQ now reach the
sea-coast and Cape Parthenike (Vio-
lente, or St. Greorge), so called after the
monastery of the same name which
is upon it, and which was the head-
quarters of the French army during
the siege of Sevastopol. The spot is
interesting for several other reasons,
and we mil allow Mr. H. D. Seymour
to describe it in his own words : —
" The cape derived its ancient name
from the cruel Virgin divinity of the
Tauri, so famous in early history, to
whom all strangers were sacrificed
who suffered shipwreck on this inhos-
pitable coast. When the Greeks
arrived from Heraclea, they brought
in the worship of Hercules and Diana,
and, as they always respected the re-
ligion of me countries they visited,
and found a great resemblance between
their own Diana and the Virgin of the
Tauri, they probably merged the two
into one under the name of the Tauric
Diana, discontinuing the ancient bar-
barous custom of offering human vic-
tims. At a later period Iphigenia
was confounded with the two other
divinities, as Herodotus expressly says
that in his time she was worshipped
as a goddess. The Tauric goddess
ad her Parthenon in Kherson, and
her chapel on Cape Parthenike. The
road is still visible by which the
worshippers passed from Kherson to
the promontory, crossing a ridge of
rocks, on which the traces of the
ancient chariot-wheels are distinctly
visible.
^' The cape is remarkable as being
the exact limit between the most ancient
and the most modem geological forma-
tions in the Crimea. Here, on the top
of the precipice, an immense rock of
Jurassic limestone juts out from the
coast, on a level with the steppe,
and bordered by sheer precipices on
every side, except Where it is con-
nected with the mainland. In the
centre are the foundations of an iso-
lated edifice, almost square, constructed
of hewn stones, like the donjons of the
houses of the Khersonese. It was
placed at the angle of the two walls,
which, advancing one to the W. and
the other to the S., on the edge of the
precipice, formed of the rest of the
platform a kind of court, of which
the entrance-gate looked towards the
Khersonese and the road. This could
only have been a temple, for here are
neither the wells nor buUdings which
always characterise a dwelling-house.
This was also the fittest situation for
the worship of the Tauric Virgin, for
at this point only could the sea be
reached on this side of the EJiersonese,
and close to it is a gorge in the form
of an amphitheatre, where doubtless,
in the earliest time, crowds assembled
to witness the precipitation of the
unhappy victims into the sea.
'*Near it, ensconced in a ledge of
the precipice, is the famous monastery
of St. George. From the plateau
above, which has all the aridity and
monotony of the steppes, its ancient
walls are not visible, and it is not till
the traveller approaches the edge of
the cliffs, and looks over, that he sees,
instead of a frightful wave-beaten pre-
cipice, a most charming little vUlage,
nestled in the rocks at about 50 ft.
below him. There are a church, and
houses, and terraces, cut one below
the other, and ancient poplars and
gardens irrigated by a fine rivulet of
water. The spot looks like a little
Btuusia.
Sdute 17. — Bcdaddva.
Q89
oasis suspended, as if by eDchantment,
at sevend hundred feet above the sea,
in the midst of an amphitheatre of
black basaltic rocks, which rise majes-
tically around, and form a striMng
contrast to the rich verdure in which
the monastery is hidden. A door and
staircase cut in the rock form the
only entrance to this great hermitage,
which was no doubt first created l>y
the ancient Troglodytes, or dwellers
underground, whose remains are so
numerous in the Crimea, as all the
rocks near the monastery, which are
composed of chalk, are pierced by
ancient grottoes, which are now only
used as cellars and poultry "yards,
although they were inhabited by the
monks so lately as the time of Pallas
in 1794. The monastery consists of
many large buildings, several of which
are devoted to the reception of stran-
gers. The church has unfortunately
been rebuilt, and the ancient chapel
that stood here has been totally de-
stroyed. A stone basin is shaded by
pophurs, while below it are terraced
gardens and small vineyards.
*• This little nook generally enjoys a
most imbroken quiet, but on the 23rd
April, St. George's Day, when crowds
arrive, and uie plateau above is
coveroi with huts and tents, the
Greeks from all parts of the Crimea
fLock to the place, and the women espe-
cially frequent the fete, and embellish
the scene by their picturesque dresses
and traditional beauty. As in most
religious festivals, the world alwajrs
clainis its part, and a kind of fair is
held here in the early part of the day,
at which much business is done. But
all at once the scene changes, the hour
of Divine service has arrived, the crowd
flocks to the church, and, as soon as
the benediction has been given, there
is a rush to the basin containing the
water, which is supposed at this
season to be the remedy against all
kinds of diseases."
From St. George's Monastery the
road to Balaclava turns to the N.E.,
over a dreary and barren plain, past
the village of Karany, with a ridge
of mountains on the rt, and then
through the vale of Balaclava, so
famous, some little distance beyond,
for the gallant charge of the Six Hun-
dred.
Balaclava, 12 v. S.E. of Sevasto-
pol, and about 7 v. from the Monas-
tery of St. George. Pop. 500.
History^ &c. — ^Balaclava is the only
bay on the southern coast resembling
the bays about Sevastopol, where the
land rises suddenly on each side, and
the water is so deep that the Isirgest
ships may anchor close to the shore.
On approaching it from the E., the
geological formation is seen at once
to change in its vicinity ; the summits
of the rocks are still, like the rest
of the Tauric chain, calcareous ; but
they have been changed by violent
action into red, blue, and grey mar-
bles, below which reappears the coarse
red pudding-stone of the Tchatyr-
Dagh mountain, while a great rent,
which opens on the sea, and was called
the Valley of the Devil (Shaitan
Dereh), shows a black or yellowish
schist.
Mr. H. D. Seymour, whom we are
still quoting, makes the following
extract from the work of M. Dubois : *
— "Each step, in approaching Bala-
clava, is an enigma to me, such ^an
inconceivable disorder reigns among
these masses of pudding-stone, with
enormous pebbles which alternate
with layers of marble and sand-
stone; and the marble finishes this
strange series, which seems like a
world turned topsyturvy. When ar-
rived at the top of the sterile mountain
that overhangs Balaclava, I cry out
with astonishment. What are these
white antique towers perched on the
top of rocks descending^ so rapidlv to
the water ? What is tms brilliant lake
shut in by the steep mountains ? and
that red promontory reflected in the
waves of the sea? Can this be Bala-
clava? Nothing but ruins are visi-
ble, — where then is the town ? Con-
templating with admiration this roman-
tic scene, I descended the mountain,
looking continually for the town, of
which I saw no vestige. My guide at
* 'Voyage autour da Caucase/ par F. DuboU
de Montpereox, 6 vols., Pwia, 1S89.
290
Boute 17. — Sahclam.
Sect. II.
last directed me suddenly to the left,
and like magic I found myself in
Balaclava, which, placed on the narrow
strip of land between the mountains
with the ruins and the tranquil bay,
is not seen until it is entered.
The first notice of Balaclava is in
the dim twilight of archaic times. It
is supposed on good authority (that of
O. Bitter) to be the port of the Lob-
strigones, mentioned in the * Odyssey,'
to which the reader must be referred
for Homer's description of the landing
of Ulysses, whose heralds were re-
ceived by the younger daughter of
Antiphates, the King of the Loestri-
gones, and shown the lofly gates of a
palace which touched the heavens.
The savage Antiphates, faithful to the
character which the ancients always
attributed to the Tauri, seized one of
the ambassadors to devour him, while
the other two fled away. Meanwhile
the alarm had been given in the
to\vn ; the people had seen the fleet of
Ulysses enter, and they rushed to it
from all parts. Strabo calls the port
Palakion, from the name of a strong
Greek castle which stood there. The
most probable presumption is that
Balaclava was founded by the Tauric
Scythians about the 2nd centy. before
Christ, and that it was the port in
which the Scythian sea-robbers con-
gregated. Later it was occupied by
the Greek colonists, who called it
Cymbolon, a name which was cor-
rupted to Cembalo by the Genoese,
who took it in 1365, and then built
the fortress which now exists. In
1433 the Greeks who had remained at
Cembalo, having conspired, drove out
the Genoese and replaced the town
and castle in the hands of a noble
Greek called Alexis, the lord of
Theodori (Inkerman). He was driven
out in the following year by Charles
Somellin, who was sent from Genoa
with a fleet of 20 vessels, farther aug-
mented in passing through the Greek
islands, so that he arrived with 6000
men.
In 1475 Balaclava was taken by the
Turks, who gave it up uninjured to the
Tartars, by whom it was held for
several centuries, till they were driven
out by its present inhabitants, the Ar-
naout Greeks, in 1780. These were
embodied into a regiment in 1795 for
the ostensible purpose of guarding the
coast, but in reaJity for that of ex-
pelling the Tartars, whom Catherine
found somewhat powerful and refrac-
tory when she took the Crimea. The
" Greek battalion " was only disbanded
in 1859.
The village of Balaclava, for it can
scarcely be called a town, presents a
very different appearance from what
it did before the war. There are only
a few small houses remaining ; but the
tranquil beauty of the bay (whieli
proved so treacherous to our transports
on the 14th November, 1854), and the
ruins of the fortifications, on which the
arms of Genoa were still visible at the
beginning of the present centy., will
well repay the traveller for the fatigue
he has endured during this long drive.
He will be forcibly reminded of some
of the events of the Crimean war by
the inscriptions on the rocks — " Cossack
Bay," « Castle Bay," " Castle Point,"
&c., painted in bold characters during
the English occupation.
3. — Sevastopol to Bdkhchisdrai, passing
through the Valley of Inkerman,
The traveller mav either perform
this journey on horseback, or in a post-
cart, providing himself first with a
podorqjna, or order for post-horses.
The first plan necessitates the leaving
of his luggage at Sevastopol, unless
arrangements can be made for its being
safely forwarded. These are details
which must be left to circumstances,
and to the discretion of the traveller.
It is, however, necessary to premise
that the road which he is about to
take is the worst in the whole penin-
sula.
The road from Sevastopol to Inker-
man is only about 4 m. in length, but
very fatiguing. In order to avoid the
numberless ravines which cut up the
Khersonese, a circuitous route must be
taken, and it is hardly possible to cross
in a straight line. Scarcely Las the
descent been made to the bottom of one
Bnssia*
Boute 17. — InJcerman.
291
ravine, by a very steep declivity, than
an equally precipitous ascent must be
made at the other side ; and the route
has nothing picturesque, except some
poor ruins scattered here and there
among the rocks.
The Valley of Inkerman, through
which flows the river Tchernaya,
begins about 4 m. from Sevastopol,
and is formed by 2 limestone chains,
full of fossils, of which one runs along
the northern, and the other along the
S. shore of the bay of Sevastopol.
Approaching each other at about a
mile above the mouth of the Tcher-
naya, they form a valley, rich in pas-
tures. On the rt. bank of the river
the chain terminates in two perpendi-
cular cliffs, of which the right is
pierced by a great number of caverns
or crypts of every variety and size,
arranged in irregular tiers of nearly
half a mile in length. They are sup-
posed to be the work of the ancient
Tauri. On the summit of the other
cliff are the ruins of the castle of
Eupatorion (later called Theodori),
built by Diophantes, the general of
Mithridates, who was sent to help
the Khersonians against the Tauro-
Scythians a little before the birth of
Christ. From this castle Diophantes
made a communication with the other
side, by filling up the valley with
earth, and leaving a passage for the
river by a bridge with 3 arches, of
which one remained in 1834, and the
bank itself is perfectly preserved.
The name of Inkerman is derived
from them, its meaning in the Tartar
language being " a town of caverns."
In 1578 Greek inscriptions and
heraldic bearings of the Greek princes
of Theodori were still to be seen over
the gates.
On the southern side of the same
rock is an ancient cavcni-church,
with its columns, choir, and sarcophagi
complete. The more complicated
crypts on the S. side of the rock have
many rooms, and all, except the prin-
cipal chamber, have ledges of stone
which were once used as beds. The
doors were of wood ; the ceilings rise
to a point; and in the centre of the
.BuMta.^1868.
floor there was a hole IJ ft. deep,
and 2 ft. across, which was the
fireplace and the oven. In some
places, from natural causes, the rock
has given way, and carried down
whole stages of crypts, with the pas-
sages and staircases of communication
between the various stories, and Lieut.
Kruse, whose labours in connexion
with Khersonesus have been men-
tioned, blew up vast numbers of the
crypts for the purpose of supplying
stone, under a contract for the public
buildings of Sevastopol. On the
opposite side of the valley, on the left
bank of the river, the hill-side is like-
wise full of crypts.
In the vicinity of the mountains,
partly covered with brushwood, and
partly laid bare, are quarries of ser-
pentine and marble, which were
worked during the construction of
ancient Khersonesus. The Eomans
sent their convicts to work in these
quaiTies. Amongst the number was
Pope Clement I., who was after-
wards put to death, a.d. 102, for
converting his fellow prisoners to
Christianity. A ch., which at a later
period was built in the rock, and de-
dicated to St. Clement, still exists.
Here also are some wells dug by the
Greek princes. One of them, situated
about 50 fiathoms above the valley, in
the centre of the old foiizess, is very
remarkable. The aqueduct, 12 m. in
length, which runs along the valley,
and pierces the rock for a distance of
about 150 fms., was built in 1832-33,
for the purpose of supplying the docks
of Sevastopol with fresh water. In the
direction of Tchorguna and Mangup
is a layer of fuller's earth, 2 ft. in
thickness and grey in colour, accom-
panied below by talc. It is use'd as
soap, and is even exported to Constan-
tinople. The famous heights of In-
kerman are on the 1. bank of the
Tchernaya, near its mouth. For de-
scription of the battle vide Historical
Notice.
Passing through the valley of In-
kerman, the road — a very bad one —
first ascends and then descends again
ik, which,
into
P
after a N.W. course oT oO v^ft^Hs in
292
Boute 17. — Bakhchisarai.
Sect. n.
the Black Sea N. of the bay of Sevas-
topol. Here the first stat., 24 v. from
Sevastopol, is reached. It is the
Tartar village of Duvankoi (Pop.
1100), prettily situated on the rik.
bank of the Belbek. Thence the road
crosses the plain and the river Eatcha
to Bakhchisarai, a distance of 15
versts.
Bakhchisabat, on river Chiriuk-
sn, 30 V. from Simpheropol. Pop.
13.000.
AccommodcOion. — Travellers provid-
ed with a podorqjna are entitled to a
lodging in the Palace of the KhanSj
where, however, he will only find a
divan to lie npon. Everything in the
way of food he mnst provide for him-
self, either by bringing it with him,
or by obtaining it at a Tarter eating-
house. The old soldier who acts as
porter will supply water and towels.
Guides, &c. — The Cicerones are all
Russians, but the Englishman will
generally be fortunate enough to meet
with some Eussian inhabitant of the
plax^e able to speak French or German.
It will be best, however, to obtain at
Sevastopol or elsewhere a letter of in-
troduction to the commandant, who
resides in the palace, and also, like
all Russians, says an experienced
traveller, will be delighted to afford
any assistance to the stranger.
Horses. — There is no lack of these
for hire. Avoid a Tartar saddle, for
English ones are to be obtained.
History, ^c. — The date of the foun-
dation of Bakhchisarai is unknown, but
it became the residence of the khans
o( the Crimea in the latter part of the
15th centy. \rhe town is situated in a
deep, gorge of the chalk formation,
3 m. in length. It is full of interest-
ing monuments of the Tartars, foremost
amongst which is the Khan-Sarai, or
Palace of the Khans, which was re-
stored by Potemkin, and furnished in
the original style for the reception of
the Empress Catherine.
The greater part of the town was
destroyed by the Russian troops in
1736, and only a portion ef it has been
rebuilt. Many of its ornaments suf-
Tered during the Crimean war by its
appropriation to the purposes of an
hospitel. Right and left on enter-
ing are ranges' of apartments, which
all open on a long gallery, whence
there is a good view of the interior
court, and of the groups of fantastic
buildings raised irregularly above
it. At the entrance of the second
court on the left is the " Iron Gate,"
leading to the principal apartments,
on which is an inscription declaring
it to have been built by MenghH
Ghirey ELhan, who conquered the
Crimea in 1480. A staircase leads
into the richly ornamented hall, in
which there are 2 fountains, one of
which is called Selsibil, after the
name of a river in Mahomet's para-
dise, and which has been rendered
famous by the verses of the Russian
poet Pushkin. The inscription on
the fountain states that it was erected
in 1756, by Elhan Erim Ghirei, in
honour [of Diliarah Bikeh, a Geor-
gian, buried near the palace. Beyond
this hall is that of the Divan, the gn^eat
council-room, placed in the midst of a
delicious terraced garden. 'The Hall
of Audience, and a long suite of rooms
leading down to the bank of the river,
lead out of the hall with the foun-
tains. Behind the Pavilion of the
Waters, carefully hidden by high
trees, is a Uttle secluded court, where
the sacred precincts of the harem ter-
minated with a high tower, called the
Sokolinaya, or " Hawk Tower," whence
the ladies used to witness the recep-
tion of ambassadors, and the fetes and
martial games that were celebrated
in the great court, and whence also
there is a most charming view of the
town and all the surreunding country.
The mosque, with 2 tall minarets of
fine worlmianship, is on the 1. of the
palace. Adjoining it is the cemetery,
with 2 large domes, containing the
monuments of nearly all the khans
since 1654.
The oldest tombs are, however, to
be found in the suburb of Salachik,
where there is also a large mosque,
built by Menghi Ghirey, and the
tomb of Aldurakhman, Ulemi of the
Crimea, erected by the conqueror of
the peninsula. One graoefol dome,
Bussia. Saute 17. — Sdkhchisarai — TepS Kermen.
293
placed just without the precincts of
the palace garden, immediately at-
tracts attention. It contains the tomb
of a beautiful Georgian, called Diliarah
Bikeh, the wife of Krim Ghirey. She
steadily refused to change her religion,
and reposes here on suf&ance, at the
edge of the Mussulman cemetery.
Many a pilgrimage is made to this
tomb, as to that of Marie Potocka,
another beautiful Christian, who gained
the heart of one of the last khans of
the Crimea, who carried her off, but
who never succeeded in reconciling
her to being the wife of an infidel.
The principal mosque at Bakhchi-
sarai, the Djuma-Djami, was erected
by SeHamit Ghirey Khan (1737-43).
The principal excursion from Bakh-
chisarai is to Tep^ Kermen (6 v.),
a lofty hill, the sides of which, like
the gorges of Inkerman, are honey-
combed out into caves, once the dwell-
ings of man. It is difi&cult to deter-
mine the origin of these excavations ;
they were perhaps the abodes of the
Troglodites in the prehistoric ages;
but one thing is certain, that they were
at one time the refuge of Christians,
probably the Arians fleeing from the
persecution under Justinian. The re-
mains of an excavated chapel are stUl
to be seen, with an altar and a cross
carved in high relief, a cross which
antiquaries Imve hitherto been unable
to assign to any known Christian sect,
since it differs from all ordinary forms.
There are also one or two niches for
cofiSns. Lower down the hiUs are two
large holes filled with human bones,
but among which no skulls have been
discovered. The summit of this hill
is crowned by the ruins of a Genoese
fortification, and a fine view of the
country may be obtained thence.
Returning by another path, the
large cemetery of the Karaim Jews is
passed, shaded by lofty trees, and sur-
rounded by a wall. It is the favourite
burial-place of this sect, and is beauti-
fully kept. Close by is their city of
Tchufut KaWj perch^ on the summit
of lofty and craggy cliffs only acces-
sible from one side, and of which the
history is as follows:— The Karaim
Jews call it Kyrkor,or ** 40 men," and
affirm that it was biiilt by 40 bro-
thers. It was known in the middle
ages (and to Eastern writers in the
14th centy.) as the town of " Forty
Places" or "Forty Castles." The
monuments in the cemetery of Tchufut
Kald, called the Valley of Jehosha-
phat, prove that the town existed in
the 6th centy. of the Christian era, and
that in the 8th centy. it was l^e resi-
dence of Isaac Sangari, who converted
the Elahzars to Judaism. The Karaim
Jews are of opinion that Tchufut Kale
was founded about 400 years before
Christ ; also that it was the refuge of
the last of the Khazars in the 11th
centy. The Khans of Kipchak and
of the Golden Horde resid^ for some
time here, as proved by the ruins of
mosques, and by the Mausoleum of
Nenk^-Djan-Khanym, the daughter
of Tokhtamysh, successor of Tamer-
lane, who threw herself down a preci-
pice and was killed in 1437, because
her father would not consent to her
marriage with a handsome Genoese
nobleman, or, according to some, with
a Tartar Mirza.
It is now nearly deserted, but its
synagogue is still used. This and
the Council Chamber, and the tomb
of a Tartar princess, are the lions
which are shown to strangers; but
there is nothing remarkable in them,
and the time will be more profitably
spent in rambling about the ruined
houses and strong walls of this
strangely situated city, and in inspect-
ing the subterranean town which has
been cut under the fortress. The de-
scent on the other side is by a winding
series of broad stairs amid the dwell-
ings which here, as everywhere in the
Crimea, have been hollowed out in the
rocks.
The Monastery of the Assmnption is
passed on the way back. It is built
on the site of the ancient Mariampol,
the inhabitants of which town emi-
grated to Mariiipol, on the Sea of
Azof. The monastery, or rather a
portion of it, is placed high up amid
the cliffs, and some of the chapels are
excavated in the rock. Here the tra-
veller will be able to judge how the
old crypt towns look^ before they
p 2
294
Boute 17. — Mangup.
Sect. n.
were deserted. Many white crosses
mark the tombs of rich Greeks, whose
bodies have been brought from various
parts to be buried in this sacred
ground.
The hire of a horse for this excur-
sion ought not to be more than a ruble
and a half, and the gratuity to the
guide 30 kopeks.
From Bakhtchisarai the traveller
should make an excursion to the rock
of Man^up, which will be seen rising
to a height of upwards of a thousand
feet E. of the town. Every accessible
place in the vicinity is fortified with
walls and towers. One valley, called
the Tabana Dereh, is fortified by a
wall and 4 towers, and contains several
stages of crypts and a fine spring of
water. On the top of the plateau are
the remains of a Byzantine Greek ch.,
to the left of which is a mosque and a
Turldf^ cemetery. In the Acropolis
are the remains of a fine palace. It
was in this house that the Khans
several times shut up the Moscovite
ambassadors, and made them suffer a
severe captivity. It is a memento of
the Gothic Dukes of Man^up, and
perhaps, as a solitary memorial of the
architecture of the Goths in the
Crimea, possesses considerable inte-
rest.
Eising majestically from the glen at
its base, the town of Manqup belonged
at different periods to the Greeks, the
Genoese, and the ELaraim Jews, a
tribe peculiar to the Crimea, who fol-
low the law of Moses, reject the tradi-
tions of the elders, adopt many of the
habits of the Mahommedan, and are a
remarkably fine race of men. A guide
to the ruins and excavations at the
summit of this mountain will be neces-
sary, for the ascent is steep and diffi-
cult ; halfway up the road runs
through a cemete^ of these Karaim
Jews, containing many thousand
tombstones, of coflSn-shape, covered
with Hebrew inscriptions. Beyond
this is the outer wall of the fortress,
flanked by square castellated towers
at short distances from each other.
Within this, and further up the hill,
a projection of the table-land, pre-
cipitous on all sides but one — ^this was
the citadel. The excavations here are
very singular, and the view from the
windows of the chambers in the rocks
down the ravines is of the wildest cha-
racter. From the opposite side of the
mountain, Sevastopol, with its har-
bour, shipping, &c., may be distinctly
seen, and towards BakhteMsarai the
eye ranges over a broken chain of
mountains, each in itself a natural and
impregnable fortress. Of the vast
population that once inhabited Man-
gup, not one human being now re-
mains: ivy has embraced its waUs
and towers, rank herbs and old trees
have choked the vine, and the lizard
and the eft now disport themselves
over the ruins of the synagogues.
The name, sometimes pronounced
Mangut, would seem to suggest that
the Goths, when fleeing before the
victorious Huns, established them-
selves there, and built those massive
walls of which such stupendous frag-
ments still remain. A chapel exca-
vated in the rock, with a cross similar
to that at Tepe Kermen, is still visible,
though the painted saints upon the
walls, which Pallas mentions, have
disappeared.
There is little to interest the tra-
veller to the north of Bakhtchisarai,
but, says Mr. H. D. Seymour, let him
go east, south, and west of Mangup,
and he may make endless excursions
in a most lovely country. He may
wander up the valleys of the Belbek,
the Katcha, and the Alma, and cross
the mountainous country which di-
vides their channels ; and whether he
be geologist, archaeologist, or only an
admirer of the beauties of nature, he
will find his tastes amply gratified,
and every simple want supplied,
among the primitive and hospitable
Tartars.
4. — BaklUcMearai to Simpheropoly
crossing the Valley of the Jlma.
Although the traveller is recom-
mended to visit Simpheropol from
Alushta, yet, as he may be tempted to
extend his journey from Bakhtehi-
Enssia.
Boute 17. — Baidar.
295
sarai, tlie Tonte to Simpheropol is here
given.
A tolerably good road leads from
Bakhtchisarai to Simpheropol. The
distance is 30 v. (20 miles) along a
•waste steppe, with the exception of a
mile and a half of the distance, during
which it passes through the pretty
valley of the Upper Alma, about mid-
"way to Simpheropol. An excursion
may very well be made on horseback
from Bakhtchisarai, for the purpose of
seeing the celebrated battle-field.
The Alma (which means "Apple"
in the Tartar language) rises in the
Sinabdagh, S. of the Chatyrdagh, and
runs a course of 46 to 50 miles, first
S.W., then due W. Its valley is re-
markable for its fertility, and particu-
larly for its fine orchards of apples,
•whence also its name of " Alma. Vil-
lages and ancient remains mark the
whole of its course. Of the latter the
most remarkable will be found near
the village of Bazarchik, 10 v. N. of
Bakhtchmrai, where, at a place
called Han^l, is a fine ruin of a khan's
palace. But in order to reach the field
of Alma, the traveller will make for a
point lower down the river, which he
will reach by taking a road that leads
N.N.W. out of Bakhtchisarai, through
the village of Idighiel. Keeping along
the same road for a distance of 12 to
15 v., he will reach the banks of the
Alma at about 10 v. from its mouth,
and, proceeding down the valley, will
arrive- at the ground on which the
AJlies met with their first success. (For
a description of the battle, vide His-
torical Notice.)
SmPHBBOPOL. — For description of
town, vide, 8, Alushta to Simpheropol.
5. — Sevastopol to Jlupha, through (he
Valley of Baidar,
The journey from Sevastopol to
Alupka may oe easily made in one
day. The first stage is Balaclava, 12
versts. Here an attempt may be made
to induce the traveller to take three
horses, but two are amply sufficient
unless the baggage is heavy. Soon
after leaving Balaclava the track
emerges on me high road, which is
the best in all the Crimea. There
is then a long descent, followed by
a longer ascent, exceedingly well
managed, winding round the hills
amid beautiful forests; then another
long descent, in some places very
steep, to the beautiful valley and vil-
lage of
Batdab, 22 V. from Balaclava, where
begins the most beautiful part of the
Crimea.
This valley is 12 m. (16 v.) in
length from S.W. to N.E., and 5 to 7
m. in breadth. Numerous rivulets
flow into it, and join the waters of the
Tchemaya, the sources of which are
on the slopes of the mountains of
TJssundji, by which the valley is
bounded on the E. The bottom of the
valley is undulated and covered with
wood, meadows, and pastures. Twelve
Tartar villages, each surrounded with
vineyards, and almost concealed in the
luxuriant foliage of huge walnut-trees,
oaks, and poplars, are ensconced in it.
Of these the village at which the
traveller will stop is the largest, as
it has 195 Inhab., 2 mosques, and
several houses of 2 stories. The
rivulet which runs through it is like-
wise called Baidar, and it flows into
the Tchemaya. The valley of Baidar
has been described as the Tauric Ar-
cadia, and travellers have bestowed
almost extravagant praise upon it.
Dr. Lyell says, •* For myself, though I
have visited the Caucasus and the
fairy scenery of the well-known
Trosachs in Scotland, I still regard
the valley of Baidar as uncommonly
fine, and worthy of most of the eulo-
giums bestowed upon it."
Dr. Lyell passed a night in the
village of Baidar, and slept on a Tartar
divan in the upper room of one of the
cottages. Travellers provided with
provisions should do the same, and
pass a day in exploring the beautiful
valley.
On leaving the village of Baidar
the road ascends once more until the
highest part of the mountain is reached
296
Boute 17. — La»pi.
Sect. IL
at tlie ''Bftidar Gate,'* or pass of
Phoros, over which a good mao-
adamized road was made by Prince
Woronzoff in 1835, and where, passing
under an archway, the traveller enjoys
his first glimpse of the celebrated coast
of the Crimea. The sea lies at his feet
at the distance of a mile, and the high
precipitous mountains which rise in
an amphitheatre on his left hand
recede a short distance from the coast,
and leave a narrow margin of fertile
country, with a climate like that of
Greece and Italy. The glittering
haze of the blue sea, the balmy air,
the lofty mountains, with clear outline
drawn against a cloudless sky, and
softened by the delicate tints of a
southern atmosphere, are natural phe-
nomena of which no description can
give an idea, but which once seen
enrich the mind with a new stock of
images.
The climate of the southern coast,
which the traveller has now reached,
is completely different from that of
any other part of the Crimea. To the
N. of the mountains, even as far as
Balaclava and the valley of Baidar,
there is always a severe winter, and
the ground, as we too well know, is
covered with snow. But when once
the pass of Phoros is crossed the
climate entirely changes. No snow
ever falls on the sea region, and a
perpetual spring reigns there. Not
£a.r from the pass, or Baidar Gate, is
the "Devil's Staircase," which was
formerly the only path to the S. coast
without making a long Mour.
Descending the pass by a series, of
deep zigzags with very sharp angles,
the macadamized road leads to the
1. towards the village of Kikineis.
Mr. H. D. Seymour recommends
here a short detour to the right, for
the purpose of visiting a secluded and
beautiful little nook which was a
favourite spot in early Greek times.
This is the sheltered little valley and
village of Laspi. The road to it from
Phoros is a labyrinth of trees and
verdure, yet the ground is covered
with large masses of porphyry, large
jets of which rise in some places to
the height of 1000 ft. The valley, says
Mr. Seymour, quoting Dubois, has been
created by an igneous agency, which
has detached Mount Ilia from the prin-
cipal Tauric chain, to which it is
united by a ridge of schist and sand-
stone about 600 ft. broad. On the
top of this ridge arise at intervals
alx)ut a dozen enormous aiguilles, 40
or 50 ft. high, which look as if, like
Stonehenge, they belonged to some
gigantic work of man.
The ancient village of Lasfi stood
on the side of the valley, high up on
the connecting ridge, touching the
aiguilles, and its inhabitants thus en-
joyed a magnificent view over the
valley and the sea, and far away along
the coast on the other side of the bay,
which is terminated by the promon-
tory of Mount Asia. . Just below the
village are the ruins of a church of the
early Christian times, surrounded by a
cemetery in which are tombs in the
shape of long sarcophagi, with a square
tower at the head, entered by a small
door, which is finished above in a
triangle. Over this a cross is sculp-
tured, and some attribute, as a pastoral
sta£^ or a Tartar hatchet with two
edges, a pickaxe, a spur, a plough, or
a table, emblematic of Ihe occupation
of those who slept below. These tombs
belonged to the Greeks, who inhabited
many places in this part of the Crimea ;
but there are no inscriptions remaining
here, except one of the late date 1772.
Around the church of the cemetery are
the ruins of houses and esplanades,
with avenues of fruit-trees now be-
come wild, among which one observer
counted no fewer than five thousand
plum-trees.
The village of Laspi, true to the an-
cient traditions of the Greeks, accord-
ing to which they placed their temples
on elevated sites, whence the majesty
of the gods might be recognised from
all parts, had on the siunmit of Mount
Ilia a church which might be recog-
nised from the vast plains of the sea
around it, dedicated to Si Elias, and
still a favourite place of pilgrimage.
From the top of the ridge it is easUy
approached by a winding path across
the mossy taift on each side of whi
Etussia.
Boute 17. — Kikineis?
297
are the ruins of houses. The church,
now a rain, occupied the highest point
of the mountam, and near it is a
sacred cavern, vaulted with the stone
of Inkerman, of which the church
itself was buLlt. A sculptured cross
marks tiiis as a Christian construction,
and a warm damp air that escapes
from it is the cause of the superstition
attributing to it miraculous powers for
the recovery of health. A sheer pre-
cipice is in firont, and the view from it
splendid.
Betuming to the high road at Phoros,
the traveller will pass over about 20 v.
of a road comparatively uninteresting,
since it is bounded on the side of the
mountains by a regular precipice of
Jurassic limestone, &om 500 to 800 ft.
high, which, having as an understratum
a crumbling schist, is continually fall-
ing down in huge masses, which have
sometimes buried whole vUlages, as
for instance in 1786, at Kutchuk-Koi,
4 Y. firom Eikineis, which the traveller
will now reach.
KiKiNEis, 22 V. &om Baidar. This
is a village of no great size, but plea-
santly situated, amid walnut-trees,
plum-trees, cherry-trees, and vines, and
commands an extensive view. The
Tartar mountaineers of Eikineis, as
well as those of Limen and Simeis
(which will be passed later), have a
strange physiognomy, different from
that of all the other inhabitants of
Orim Tartary. Faces of uncommon
length, as well as arched noses exceed-
ingly long, and a high head,' com-
pressed with a view to render them
unusually flat, all contribute to pro-
duce diversified caricatures, so that
the greater part of these persons have
distorted countenances, and the least
deformed resemble the figures of satyrs.
There was an ancient habit of the
Genoese that may perhaps account for
their peculiarities. They had adopted
from their predecessors the Moors the
habit of compressing the heads of the
new-born infants above the temples, so
that perhaps these villagers, witn their
singalar fetoes, are the remaining de-
scendants of the ancient Genoese, who
inhabited the Crimea, and, notwith-
standing the lapse of time, have pre-
served their extraordinary visages. It
is fmrther remarkable that the hair
and beards of these mountaineers are
almost uniformly light reddish, or even
flaxen: — an unusual colour in the
Crimea.
It is certain all the inhabitants who
at present occupy the villages situated
on the southern coast, though regarded
as Tartars, are nevertheless the off-
spring of other nations who have either
landed here, or have been driven
thither from the interior, and who
were strangers to the later race, but
especially to that of the Mongols.
Changing horses at Kikmeis, the
traveller will post on through Limen
(3 m. from the latter station), which
was one of the most important for-
tresses on the coast, placed on a high
steep rock, only approachable by one
path, and defended by a strong wall
the construction of which the Tartars
attributed to the Genoese. Traces of
the fortress are still to be seen, in
strange contrast with smiling country
houses, surrounded by ancient olive-
groves and splendid fig-trees. The
traces of a violent volcanic action are
apparent here. The whole space from
the top of the mountains to the sea
below is covered with stupendous
blocks of stone, thrown pellmell one
upon another, some even half-buried in
the sea, whence only their tops are
visible, beaten by the waves; one of
the largest of these erratic blocks is
called ran^, and upon it are the
ruins of an ancient castle. The agents
of all these convulsion^ are to be seen
in two jets of porphyry, which, piercing
through the schist underlying the
limestone, have struck against the
stupendous walls of the limestone
itself, which forms the flat table-land,
or yaiUij of the mountains above. In
one place the yaila is broken, and
through the limestone there appear
forced up i^e schists and the porphyry,
mixed together in a paste, which
proves that they were in a liquid state
when the jets arose.
About 3 m. beyond Lim^n is another
charming spot called Bim^. The
formidable aspect of the craggy and
298
Boute 17. — Alu^Jca.
Sect. 11.
peaked rocks on the N., the unbounded
tranquil dark-blue sea on the S.. with
the smiling valley of Simeis between
them, covered with very luxuriant
foliage, form one of the most inter-
esting scenes which it is possible to
conceive. Oastelnau, a French traveller,
exclaims, ** Suisse, si fertile en char-
mans paysages, on vous oublie eil
voyant le vallon de Semeus."
A winding road of about 2 miles,
through the most charming scenery,
will bring the traveller to the end of
this journey, which is
Alufka, a village of about 4000
Inhab.
Hotel kept by a Frenchman; very
comfortably furnished.
This is the celebrated seat of Prince
Woronzofif, whose villa, (or rather pa-
lace, for it contains upwards of 200
rooms,) is built on a romantic spot,
where the rocks approach very near
to the sea. It stands, however, at the
height of about 155 ft. above the sea,
and the gardens descend to the shore.
The promontory of Aithidor is seen on
the E. jutting out into the sea, and
giving a curve to the coast, which
adds greatly to its beauty ; while im-
mediately behind the palace rises
Mount Ai Petri or Mount St. Peter,
to a height of 3900 ft.
Built under the personal superin-
tendence of Mr. Hunt, an English
architect, after designs by Mr. Blore,
the architecture of this residence is
a skilful mixture of the Elizabethan
with the Moorish. The material, a
greenish porphyry, was taken from
the crater of an extinct volcano at the
back of the house : the turrets, tracery,
mullions, coigns, and other ornamental
parts of the building, are all of the
same stone, which is exceedingly hard
and difficult to work. The dining-
room is of splendid dimensions, and
lighted by 2 immense windows over-
looking the sea: the groined ceiling
is of oak, and the wall opposite the
windows is ornamented with 2 foun-
tains of elegant form in a dove-co-
loured marble, with ^dark red veins,
peculiar to the Crimea. These foun-
tains play at all times, being fed by
a crystal rill from the mountains.
Among the art treasures and curiosi-
ties of the palace are original portraits
of Lucrezia Borgia and her husband.
The terrace in front of the ch&teau is
ornamented with orange-trees and
other choice plants; the gardens are
well laid out, but small, in conse-
quence of the plateau of land on which
the house stands being circumscribed
by the sudden rise of the mountains
at the back and the precipitous fall of
the ground towards the sea in front.
Among the trees are 2 remarkable
cypresses, said to have been planted
by Prince Potemkin, when Catherine
visited the Crimea in 1787. The
ornamental water is full of trout, and
the vineyard contains 140,000 plants
of the best species.
In addition to the beauty of the
landscape and the splendour of Prince
Woronzoffs palace, Alupka boasts of
some ancient ruins on a rock detached
from the main ridge and marked by a
tall white cross.
The traveller may well halt here
for a day or two, and ramble about in
the lovely neighbourhood. By no
means the least of the many attrac-
tions here are a French cuisine, com-
bined with English comforts, and
Prince Woronzoffs delicious Crimean
wine, Massandra and Ai-Danil, sup-
plied at the moderate rate of 40 co-
pecks, while the Comishman may even
revel in pilchards, which, in the days
of Pallas, were taken with the hand
between the stones on the coast during
the night, by the aid of torches made
of resinous wood.
In rambling about the rocks the
visitor to Alupka should beware of
scorpions, which in the vernal season,
says Pallas, may be found of different
sizes, and beneath almost every stone
in old walls.
6. — Alupka to Yalta, through Livadia,
The entire distance from Alupka to
Yalta is only 16 v. or 12 English m.,
and the road is full of interest, being
through a succession of beautiful es-
tates. One '6f ^tfie' seats nearest to
Russia.
Boute 17. — Kurds — Morgudu.
299
Alupka is Miehhor, built by General
Leo Narishkin, a celebrated Bnssian
beau of the early part of this centy.,
who followed the prevailing fashion of
having a villa on the S. coast^ and a
vineyard of 600 acres which produces a
T5rine.something like hock. Adjoining
it is the estate of Kureis, interesting as
having belonged to a Princess Galitzin,
one of a celebrated trio of ladies who,
under the reign of the impressionable
Emperor Alexander, first exercised a
great influence at court, and then,
turning from the world to heaven,
endeavoured to form a religious society
for the immediate conversion of the
whole world to Christ — a conversion
which they thought had been too long
delayed. The poor surrounded their
doors in crowds at St. Petersburg, for
they were very charitable of alms for
the body as well as the soul, and their
influence rose so rapidly, that the
ministers induced the Emperor to sign
the order for their banishment to the
Crimea, a sentence which they ac-
cepted with joy as a mission from
heaven to evangelize the Tartars.
The other 2 ladies were the cele-
brated Madame de Krudener and a
mysteriqus personage who went under
the name of the Countess Gaucher,
but who, after her death, proved to
have been the famous Countess de la
Motte, who .was publicly whipped and
branded on the Place de la Greve as
an accomplice in the scandalous affair
of the diamond necklace of Marie
Antoinette. Both she and the Princess
Oalitzin adopted a kind of male attire,
suited to their independent mode of
life.
At each moment from this spot the
coast widens, and leaves a greater
space between the overhanging moun-
tains and the sea. Around the little
village of Graspra the ground undulates
prettily, and every spot is cultivated
and covered with rich woods, orchards,
vineyards, and gardens, in the midst
of vfhich peep out villas and country
houses. Every kind of fruit, shrub,
and forest tree is to be found ; in fact,
a more abundant and varied vege-
tation cannot be seen anywhere.
Amongst the fruit-trees are the vine,
olive, pomegranate, ^g, peach, necta-
rine, and apricot. The walnut is par-
ticularly large in its growth, and may
be called a forest tree. The shrubs
are beautiful and include the juniper
and laurel ; and on many of the trees
in the hedgerows, for there is a great
deal of fencing, the wild hop and vine
may be seen climbing from one to the
other, mingling with the clematis and
forming the most graceful festoons.
The whole resembles a view in the
neighbourhood of Naples. Seen from
the water it is remarkably striking,
but nothing can be imagined more
enchanting than the drive through
the scenery along this coast.
On the top of a hill not far from
the road, and near some old ruined
fortresses, is an ancient monument
which the traveller will little expect
to find in Orim Tartary, namely rocks
piled up exactly like the Celtic re-
mains of Brittany and Cornwall.
Beyond Gaspra the road winds in-
wards in order to pass the limestone
strata of the promontory of Aithodor.
A wild path of 2 m. leads from the
road to the summit of the promontory,
in the midst of oriental juniper-trees
and ruins at every step. On the top
are 5 columns of white marble, and
the remains of an ancient monastery,
which probably, continues Mr. H. D.
Seymour, occupies the site of some
ancient Greek temple placed like that
at^Sunium in Attica.
Morgudu or Orianda de Witt, a pa-
lace built by Count de Witt, a native
of Holland, and bequeathed by him
to the Grand Duchess Helen of Kussia,
comes next. It is built on a terrace
900 ft. above the sea, and forms a fan-
tastic assemblage of neglected and
decaying buildings in a mixed Oriental,
Gothic, and Greek style. Around it
is a kind of natural park, in which
splendid trees grow on the broken
ground interspersed with enormous
masses of rock at the foot of the pre-
cipice of Mount Megabi, and here the
arbutus and juniper-tree grow to an
enormous size.
The width of the plain is here nearly
4 m., and Mount Megabi rises in the
midst of it. Close to the sea-shore is
p 3
300
Boute 17. — Livadia,
Sect. n.
the spot chosen by the Emperor Alex-
ander I. to build a retreat which he
called Orianda. In the midst of the
picturesque chaos peculiar to the coast
he formed an English garden, and
planted a vineyard and olive-grounds
near the modest dwelUng-house. The
Emperor Nicholas, however, erected
in its stead a huge palace, consisting
of a centre and 2 side-wings. In-
ternally it is arranged like an old
Greek house, and is richly ornamented
with wall-painting. The celebrated
Schinkel was the architect, and a
beautiful work has been published
upon it at Berlin. Its low situation
on the sea-shore, with high clifl& and
tall trees overshadowing it, renders it
gloomy, but suited to the health and
taste of the late consort of the Emperor
Nicholas, who spent several winters
there. In the grounds are shown 2
celebrated fig-trees 70 ft. high. Here
the Emperor Alexander intended to
retire, surrounded by his friends, to
whom he meant to allot estates near
his own. His sudden death at Tagan-
rog put an end to these projects, and
Marshal Diebitsch, who afterwards
commanded in the Turkish and Polish
wars, was the only one who received
an estate of about 100 acres adjoining
the emperor's garden.
Just where tide two estates meet is a
precipitous hill, with many traces of a
settlement of the ancient Tauri, whose
Acropolis occupied its summit. The
estate of Orianda now belongs to the
Grand Duke Constantine, who has
with great consideration removed the
fence on his side of the road, which
is here cut in the side of the hill, so
that the wayfarer may enjoy a view of
his house. At a mile from Orianda
are the little Greek village and the
Palace of
LiVADiA, the property of her Ma-
jesty the Empress. This beautiful
estate is situated on both sides of the
post-road to Yalta, and covers an area
of about 700 English acres. Most of
the estates on this coast were origin-
ally given to the Greeks who settled
in the Crimea after the treaty of
Kuchuk-Kainardji, and Livadia (the
Greek word for meadow) fell to the
share of Colonel Eeveliotti, conmian-
der of the Greek battalion. In 1834
it was purchased by Count Leo Po-
tocki, who planted a vineyard, and
laid out the present beautiful park
and gardens. The gardener who con-
ducted the works was Joachim Tascher,
a relative of Josephine, the first wife of
Napoleon L When the latter became
Emperor of the French he offered to
place Joachim Tascher in a position
suitable to his rank and relationship,
but Tascher declined, and asked to
be allowed to follow in obscurity his
favourite botanical pursuits. He was
thereupon sent to study gardening
under one of the best Swiss gardeners
in Alsace, From thence Tascher en-
tered the service of Count Potocki,
first on an estate in Galicia, and later
at Livadia.
On the death of Count Potocki, who
spent large sums in embellishing the
house and grounds, Livadia was pur-
chased in 1861 by the Department of
Appanages, and by an ukaz of the same
year was presented by the emperor
to her Imperial Majesty the Empress.
Two other estates, Chair-Jacquemart,
so called after an eccentric French
lady who retired here, and Maraveli,
were at the same time added to it,
and Professor Monighetti of St. Peters-
burg was charged in 1862 with the^
reconstruction of the premises. The*
fagade of the palace has been little
altered, but the balustrades, vases, and
cariatides have very much changed its
outward appearance since the S&ja of
Count Potocki. A wide balcony runs
along one side of the palace, and is
the favourite resting-place of the em-
press during the hot days of summer.
The map of the Crimea, which will be
seen in this balcony, is by the famous
Bussian painter Aivazofsky, and the
view of Livadia, a vd d'oiseau, is the
work of the artist Fessler. The inte-
rior of the palace is strikingly and
elegantly simple, the furniture being
covered with a pretty chintz. The
handsomest rooms are the emperor's
study, the empress's drawing-room, and
the dining-room, alongside of which
is a fountain.
Digitized Dy vjiv^v>»v iv^
Snssia.
Boute 17.— Talta.
301
Visitors should not fedl, if possible,
to see the ch. in the palace. It was
consecrated in 1866, and is purely
Byzantine in arrangement and deco-
ration. The frescoes on the walls
were painted by Izel, and the sym-
bolical ornaments and inscriptions
are by Beideman of the Imperial Aca-
demy. The Ikonostas or altar-screen
is of white marble, and on a pedestal
of Crimean porphyry is a white mar-
ble cross presented to the "Tsar
Emancipator" by the workmen of
Livadia in token of their •* gratitude
for the emancipation of the peasants/'
Next the palace is the house ap-
propriated to the Grand Dukes. It is
in the Oriental style of architecture,
and is ornamented after the model of
the palace at Bakhchisarai Beyond
this are a house for the suite of their
majesties, a bath with a large basin
filled with sea-water, barracks for
musicians, and, on the road to the sea,
a tunnel with a pavilion in the Turkish
style, leading to a beautiful walk
ooveied in with trellis-work and roses.
The hothouses are full of the choicest
plants, and numerous fountains impart
their coolness to this enchanting re-
treat.
The vineyard covers an area of 50
acres, and consists of 170,000 plants,
which in 1866 yielded 8000 gallons of
red wine, considered the best on the S.
coast, and consumed principally by
the monks of Kief.
There are traces of ancient building
on the estate, and the ruins of a cha-
pel near one of the 4 springs. In the
vicinity, also, in a gloomy gorge of the
mountains, is the castle of Uchansu,
which was used by the Turks as a
prison.
A drive of about 5 v. (3 m.) from
liivadia will bring the traveller to the
pretty villas, which, reminding him
strongly of the environs of an English
city, form, as it were, the suburbs of
Yalta, chief town of a district. Pop.
1100. Hotels: Galakofs Hotel, the
best, rooms very expensive, and no
cuisine; H. de Yalta, kept by a
Frenchman, rooms not as good as at
Galakofs, but cuisine excellent, prices
moderate; H. Woronzoflf, dean and
good.
Vehiclest Tiorses, &e, — ^At the back of
the Hotel de Yalta are livery-stables
kept by a Frenchman, where horses
with English saddles may be had for
the various excursions.
Steamers. — Twice a week, both up
and down the coast. Steamer to
Odessa takes about 30 hrs.
History^ — There is abundant evi-
dence to prove that Yalta was a place
of some importance m the remote
days of antiquity. The extraordinary
groups of stone found near Gaspra
and on the road to Massandra, so
similar in character to the Druidical
or Celtic remains of Western Europe,
are considered by archseologists to
have been erected and used as altars
by the Tauri. At the same time, the
history of Yalta only commences in
the 12th centy., when Ibn Edrizi, the
Arabian geographer, speaks of a town
called Galita or DjaHta, on the S.
coast of the Crimea. He mentions
that it was then inhabited by the
Comans or Polovtses. From Charters
of the Patriarchs of Constantinople it
appears that in the 14th centy. Yalita
or Gialita belonged to the patriarchs.
In the 15th centy. it was in the hands
of the Genoese, who kept a special
consul there. Towards the end of the
same centy. Yalita was almost entirely
destroyed by an earthquake, but it
was again partially rebuUt. When
the Tartars and Turks took the Cri-
mea, Yalta was included in the
Eadalyk of Hangup, which belonged
immediately to the Sultan of Turkey.
It remained an inconsiderable village
until 1838, when it was made the
chief town of a district of the same
name.
The proximity of the little town of
Yalta to the finest scenery of the
coast, its excellent port and charming
situation, make it the rendezvous of
the tourists who flock in great num-
bers to the Crimea during the sum-
mer season. The number of Russian
families that come here for the pur-
pose of bathing is increasing from
-year to year, and bids fair to make
Yalta the Bussian Brighton. The
302
Boute 17.— Yalta.
Sect. II.
quay in summer presentfs a most ani-
mated scene, and small craft from all
parts lie at anchor in the little bay.
Nothing can be more pleasing (we
quote from Mr. H. D. Seymourj than
the effect of the white town placed at
the extremity of the bay, surrounded
by rich scenery, with the high crests
of the hills beliind also covered with
verdure. The elegant buildings, the
handsome hotels, and the general ap-
pearance of the population, all an-
nounce it as a town favoured by the
rich and pleasure-seeking. The val-
ley of Yalta is very beautiful, and
there is nothing on the whole coast
more grand than to look down upon it
in descending the hUl from Maga-
ratch, stretched out in a noble amphi-
theatre at the foot of the precipices of
the Tauric chain. Mount Megabi is
then in front, with the village and
vineyards of Aiitka at its foot; and
Orianda and Cape Aithodor may be
seen behind it. On the rt., looking
down upon Yalta, a great promontory
of the Tauric chain, called Mount
Yoprakl, about 4000 ft. high, divides
the valley into two parts, and at its
foot is the little village of Derekoi,
hidden by the trees. The rt. branch
of the valley is called Ai-Vassili ; and
a village whence it takes its name is
situated at the foot of Mount Lapata.
To judge by the steep, rough aspect
of this mountain, one would not ima-
gine that down its sides is one of the
principal roads leading from Bakhchi-
sarai to the coast. The road as far as
Ai- Vassali follows the course of a rivu-
let, and the surroimding country has
the appearance of an English park,
with magnificent trees and cascades.
At Ai-Vassili the gardens are filled
with date and plum-trees, ash, tur-
pentine-trees, figs, and walnuts.
Around the village and above it are
seen the sandstone and the schists, and
the oak and the elm cover the ground ;
but at the height of 1000 ft. the lime-
stone is reached, and the Tauric pine
takes the place of other trees and
grows to a great size. It lasts over the
first layer of the limestone for about
700 ft., and is succeeded by the beech
\u6. wich elm.
Above these is the naked summit of
the motmtain, and then, on passing a
narrow gorge in the rocks, the tra-
veller emerges on one of the mountain
plains or yailas. As far as the^ crest
of the mountain the sunny landscape
of the valley of Yalta in all its beauty
is spread out, with a glorious expanse
of sea beyond it shining through a
warm and clear atmosphere. Upon
the yailas everything becomes changed
in a moment, and to the warm rays of
the sun succeed a cold damp air, and
the thick icy fog of a northern region.
To mark the road across it, lest tra-
vellers should lose their way, heaps
of stone are placed at a distance of
twenty yards, as far as the woods on
the northern slope, which extends
nearly to Bakhchisarai.
It has already been said that Yalta
might be made the head-quarters of
the traveller who wishes to see the
Crimea thoroughly, and at the same
time pleasantly.
After visiting the cataract of U-
chan-sut near Yalta, a very pictur-
esque spot, and spending a day in
quietude, the traveller will be eager to
continue his journey. Should he not
have visited Bakhchisarai andMangup-
Kale from Sevastopol, the excursion
may easily be made from Yalta.
By getting up early in the morning,
a journey may be made to Mangup-
KaU\ a very interesting spot, and
back, in one day. This will be an ex-
cursion of about 12 hrs., but the wiry
Tartar horses are capable of a great
deal more work, and are, in addition,
wonderfully surefooted. The ride is
most delightful, and the views from
the summit of the mountain-pass the
most extensive and varied in the pe-
ninsula. The descent to the village
of Osembash, on the road to Mangup-
Kale, is precipitous and difiScult, but
from thence the road passes through
exquisite mountain-locked valleys,
shaded by noble trees, until the cliff,
inaccessible except on one side, where
the fortress stands, is visible.
For a description of Mangup-KaM,
and of Bakhchisarai, which may like-
wise be reached by this route, vide
Excursion 3. ' '^^^ ^^ O^w^^^
Bouie 17.— NiJcita.
303
7.— Yalta to AlusTda,
From Yalta to Alushta the distance
is 45 V. through a most beautiful
country. The road ascends at first up
a hill, and on the left are some Ovclo-
pean remains, the stones of which have
been partly removed to build the pier
at Yalta. At the top of the hill is the
ch. of Massandrat rebuilt by Prince
Woronzoflf, in the Doric style, on the
ruins of an ancient chapel, &mous for
its spring of water, which bubbled
forth beneath the altar. The spring
still follows its ancient course undis-
turbed, and escapes from the ch. by an
arch in the wall ; and here the weary
traveller may refresh himself with a
cool draught, and rest imder the fine
trees which surround the ch., among
which is one of the largest and most
venerable oaks on the southern coast
The estate of Massandra belongs to
Prince Woronzoflf, whose mansion will
be seen from the road. The park is
very pretty, and the extensive vine-
yuds produce the famous wine which
we have mentioned at Yalta, and which
is here stored in extensive cellars. The
hot-houses are fuU of exotic plants.
Adjoining Massandra is another estate
called Ma^aratcht which also produces
an excellent wine of the same name ;
twenty years ago a wilderness, but now
covered with beautiful gardens and
villas, the land having been parcelled
out and sold in small lots to a number
of wealthy colonists, who form an
agreeable little society of their own.
About 3 m. further on is Nkita, where
are the Imperial Botanical Gardens, a
vast establishment for experiments on
acclimatization, and practical studies
on the plants and trees which might be
profitably introduced into the Crimea.
It is well worthy of inspection, for
every possible variety of tree and
plant adapted to the climate is to be
found there. Even the distant Hima-
layas have paid their tribute. The
collection of vines is perhaps the
largest and most perfect in the world :
it was made for an American merchant
in the south of France, but subse-
quently purchased by the Russian
Government and transferred to the
Crimea. There are upwards of 800
sorts; the black and white Muscats,
and the Isabelle, are the best. The tra-
veller should ask to see a peculiar grape
which is black and white, and therefore
called the Harlequin. The soil, aspect,
and climate of this coast are so favour-
able to the cultivation of the vine, that
every kind of wine may be made here ;
and where quality, not quantity, is
made the object of attainment, the wine
is excellent. A wine that has the body
of good French claret, with the flavour
and colour of port, is very good ; also
the sweet wines, Malaga, Lunel, &c.
The vine-dressers are generally French
or German. In the garden at Nikita
is a curious ruin of the vegetable king-
dom, consisting of the decayed and
mouldering trirnks of some olive-trees
which flourished here in the time of the
Genoese. This tree, though it grows,
does not succeed here, bearing fruit
but rarely, and of an inferior quality.
A little beyond Cape Nikita and its
garden is the mountain of 8t, Daniel,
belonging to Prince Woronzoflf, where a
kind of champagne, and a very excel-
lent white wine called Ai Dainil, are
produced. Passing this, the traveller
will enter the Vadey of Urmf the
Gorzubita of ancient times, where the
Emperor Justinian built a castle, the
walls and towers of which still crown
an immense rock on one side of the
valley. The part built by Justinian is
easily distinguished from a second sys-
tem of defence round it, which appears
to be Genoese, on the walls of which
Pallas, in 1794, saw embrasures for
cannon that have since disappeared.
The coimtry here is still extremely
rich, and the view from the ruins mag-
niflcent. Enormous walnut-trees, fig-
trees, and poplars form labyrinths of
verdure, and- here is situated the re-
treat which the Duke de Bichelieu,
the second foimder of Odessa, created
for himself among the wild Tartar
population, when as yet there was no
road on the coast. This was the first
of the modem Bussian attempts at
colonization on the coast, and the
duke bon'ght the estate in 1817, with
804
BotUe 17.— Nihita.
Sect.n.
rights upon the villBge of Urzuf, for
1202. Up to 1825 this and Kutchok
Lambat, and Nikita were the only
European establishments in this now
fashionable locality.
A mole and a tower are still visible
defending the little bay of Urzuf. The
eastern side of it is formed by the
mountain of Ai-Udagh, which juts out
into the sea to the height of about
1800 ft., presenting a precipice on the
side of Urzuf, and only to be ascended
from the village of Fe^henite, on the
opposite side. On the summit are the
remains of an ancient castle, the walls
of which are composed of enormous
blocks of stone without cement. The
fortifications are in a large semicircle,
the diameter wall of which is about
700 ft. in length, and the thickness of
the walls about 5 ft. Where the wall
can be approached from the land, 13
towers defend it, but on the side of the
precipice there are none.
In looking at the style of this con-
struction, it is impossible to recognise
in it a work of the Byzantine Greeks
or the Genoese, who always used lime
and water, as may be seen in the ruins
of Alushta, Urzuf, Sudak, Theodosia,
and Balaclava. These ruins are built
like those at Little Oastele, Demir-
Kapu, and other of the most ancient
remains in the Crimea. They resemble
the Cyclopean walls of Kimmericum
(Opuk), and the tumuli of the Gold
Mountain near Eertch, and Dubois
attributes them to the Tauri and the
Tauro-Scythians.
This little fortress has not been in-
habited since 1475, that is to say, since
the destruction of the Genoese power
in the Crimea, but there is no reason
to think that it was ever inhabited by
the Genoese or the Greeks. There is
no trace of temple or other edifice
within it, and the only remains of such
are to be found immediately on arriv-
ing at the top of the mountain, where,
nestled among some large trees, rise
the ruins of a monastery dedicated to
St. Constantino and St. Helen. It im-
mediately overlooked the village of
Parthenite ; and Dubois, who imagines
that it occupied the site of the ancient
temple of the Taurio Diana, thinks
that this would be a most interesting
place to commence some excavations.
He believes that, whUe the temple at
Cape St. George, in the Ehersonese,
was also dedicated to the goddess, this
one of Ai-Udagh was the particular
temple where Iphigenia exercised her
cruel mission; that it was here that
Orestes and Pylades appeared to her;
hence the bodies of the victims were
precipitated from the top of the rock
mto the sea below; hence she gazed
over the wide horizon, and watched for
the vessels of her victims.
The Tartar village of Parthenite, or
the Village of the Virgin, alluded to
by the ancients, still stands ;at the foot
of the promontory of the same name.
It lies in a beautiful valley, and a
sandy beach enables the inhab. still,
as in the Homeric times, to draw their
barks upon the land. Here is a cele-
brated walnut-tree of enormous size,
surrounded by benches, under the
shade of which the Prince de Ligne
wrote a letter to the Empress Cathe-
rine, describing to her his astonish-
ment at the extraordinary beauty of
the southern coast.
The road from Nikita is carried along
at a height of 1000 ft. above the sea,
with magnificent ranges of mountains,
some of which are 4000 ft. in altitude,
towering up inland. Descending then
into the lovely valleys of Buyuk Lam-
bat and Kutchuk Lambat, or the
Great -and Little Lambat, — ^the old
Greek name of the place, meaning the
town of the Lamps, Lampadon, — the
traveller will see the village of Little
Lambat on the shore of the bay, de-
fended from the E. by the promontory
Plaka. Beyond the two Lambats,
says Mr. H. D. Seymour (who, we can-
not too frejiuently repeat, has collected
most of this information, and whom we
have in many parts quoted in eztenso)^
the ground is covered with ruins of
every age, from the most early at
Buyuk Lambat to the most recent on
the sea-shore. The river Alma rises
on the side of the Tauric chain, exactly
opposite to the plateau on which Great
Lambat is situated.
After passing Cape Plaka, between
Great Lambat and the sea-shore, one of
Bnssia.
Baute 17. — Alushta.
305
the most extraordinary spectacles that
can be witnessed presents itself to the
traveller. There suddenly appears a
place wMoh is called by the mo-
dems the Chaos and the Tartars
Sunenkaia. It is a vast assemblage
of enormous masses of rock, as large as
houses and as high as towers, composed
of fetid black limestone, thrown toge-
ther in confusion, and sometimes lean-
ing against one another, somewhat in
the same manner as at the Trossachs
in Scotland. This great amphitheatre
of confusion goes on widening for a
mile and a half inland, up to Bu3ruk
Lambat ; and crossing the high road,
and going up towards the mountains,
a new Chaos is met with, composed of
rocks of ophitic granite instead of the
limestone. From the highest point of
the mountain all through the Chaos
down to the sea-shore the ground is
covered with ancient ruins, and the
place was evidently chosen by the
barbarous population of ancient times,
as one secure from attack on accotmt
of the difficult nature of the country.
The best situation for observing these
interesting phenomena, the solution of
which lies in the enormous mouth
of a crater above the second chaos, is
Mount Aithidor, or the Hill of St.
Theodore, so called from the ruins of a
Greek ch. on the summit.
Further on. Mount Castele completely
bars all passage along the coast, and
the road is carried on between it and
the main chain, which the Tartars call
Deniir Kapil, or the Gate of Iron ; and,
according to their usual system, the
Tauri had here established one of
their fortresses, in the narrowest part
of the gorge, to defend their settlement
at Lambat. Three walls of granite
blocks formed the enceinte; 2, about
200 paces long, run from the perpen-
dicular flanks of Mount Castele, and
meet a third, nearly at right angles,
on the opposite side of the val-
ley. Everything here shows the in-
fancy of art, and recalls the Cyclopean
constructions of Greece, or even the
Gaulish camps of France and Switzer-
land.
On the eastern side of the " Castele,"
the only remains of the Greeks or
Genoese are the foundations of a little
edifice outside the fort, in the midst of
some trees, looking towards Alushta.
The Tauri are probably the builders
of a second fortress much more con-
siderable than the first, and occupjring
a part of the summit of the mountain.
A wall, constructed without cement,
here runs from N. to S., from one pre-
cipice to another, and encloses nume-
rous traces of habitations and fragments
of pottery. The traveller, after pass-
ing the gorge, soon finds himself at
the top of the descent leading to
Alush1», with the town placed on the
opposite side of the valley. Here ends
the really fine scenery of the southern
coast, which extends over a distance of
about 40 m. from Phoros (Baidar Gate)
to Alushta.
Alushta, 42 v. from Yalta, and 44
V. S.E. from Simpheropol. Pop. 800.
Accommodation. — A night may very
well be passed in one of the Tartar
houses, which are all very clean. The
fere will, however, be simple.
History, &c, — The history of this
Tartar vulage or townlet, so beautifully
placed on the sloping side of a gentle
elevation, may be r^ in the ruins of
the old fortress of Aluston, built by
Justinian in the 6th centy. before
Christ. The remains of the wall, 6 ft.
in thickness, and of 3 towers, stand
on a little hill near the sea-shore. Some
remains may also be seen of Greek
houses and chs. placed on the most
elevated positions. The chs. must
have been nearly as large as those of
Khersonesus, and in the principal one
Mr. Dubois traced a semicircular apse,
which showed that either a bishop or
at least a priest of high rank presided
over the clergy attached to it.
Tho vineyards of Alushta, in which
are about 900,000 vines, protected from
N. winds by the giant Tchatyr Dagh,
are among the best in the Crimea, and
cover, together with rich orchards, the
whole of the valley, which is a con-
tinuation of one of the defiles of the
Tauri chain. Vessels cast anchor in
the roads, where the depth is consider-
able, and load fruit and wine.
There are 2 mosques and a Bussian
ch. in Aloshta; also a Quarantine
Station.
306 Boide 17.— Tchatyr Bagh — Simpheropol Sect. II.
oblong tent, which in ancient times
procured it the name of Mount Tra-
pezus.
While visiting the mountain, the
stalactite caves of Ful Kuha and
Kisil Ktiba should not be omitted.
They are of great extent, and, though
somewhat difficult of access, will amply
repay the time and trouble devoted to
them. The former contains an im-
mense number of human bones, the
remains of the unfortunate Genoese
who were smoked to death there by
the Tartars. After descending the
mountain, the traveller, if not too fa-
tigued, must make the best of his way
to the post station, and continue his
journey to —
8. — MvshJta to Simpheropol, and ascent
of the Tchatyr Vagh.
The traveller bound to Simpheropol
by way of the Tchatyr Dagh will leave
the coast at Alushta and proceed north-
wards for 28 versts, when he will reach
the Tartar village of Tautshan Bazaar.
Here he should halt for the night, and
make arrangements for the ascent of
the mountain next day. There is no
inn at Tautshan Bazaar, but the post-
house presents a sofa; or, if that be
objectionable, there will be no difficulty
in finding some hospitable Tartar to
afford shelter for the night. A stock
of provisions should always be laid in
when a halt is to be made between
any of the principal towns ; but bread,
cheese, curds and whey, and a few
eggs, are generally to be obtained
everywhere at a very moderate charge.
Horses and guides can be procured at
this village, and the ascent will take
about 3 hours.
The only object of interest near
Tautshan Bazaar is Kutuzofs Foun-
tain. In repulsing the Turks, who at-
tempted to land here from their galleys
in 1774, the General was shot through
the head. The bullet entered near his
right ear and came out below the left
temple. He only lost an eye, and lived
till 1813. The fountain was erected
in his honour.
TcHATYB Dagh (5125 ft.) is the
highest mountain in the Crimea, and
is seen from all parts of the peninsula.
The view from its summit is most
beautiful. All around it, in the country
within the influence of the Tauric
chain of mountains, is a succession of
verdant hills and valleys, which seem
to be a great island surrounded by two
oceans, that of the sea on the S., and
that of the Steppes on the N., so fiat
and uniform do the latter appear to be.
Tchatyr Dagh means tent-mountain
in Tartar, and this name has been
given to it because of its form, the
last 700 ft. of which rise like a large
Simpheropol, 44 v. i&rom Alushta,
on river Salghir. Pop. 17,000.
Hotel, kept by Schnyders, very good ;
charges about the same as at Sevas-
topol.
History, &c. — The site now occupied
by Simpheropol must have been popu-
lated in the remotest times, for many
traces of ancient fortifications and
buildings are to be found not far from
the Alushta road, and almost along-
side of the town, at a place called by
the Tartars " Kermenchik," or little
fortress. Blaremberg, an archsDologist
of Odessa, arrived at the conclusion
that the ruins are those of the fortress of
Neapolis, built by the Tauro-Scythian
King Skiluros and his sons about a
centy. before Christ; and although
this supposition has been disputed by
others, the subsequent discovery of
bas-reliefs and Greek inscriptions,
mentioning the name of Skiluros,
would seem to confirm the opinion of
Blaremberg. Later still, remains of
amphorsB were dug up near Simphe-
ropol with the mark ** Neapolis '* upon
some of them. Round, funnel-shaped
holes have likewise been laid bare in
the rock, and foimd to contain, some
bones, others coals, and even grains of
wheat. Tumuli and other very ancient
remains are also to be found on the
N.W. side of Simpheropol and along
the river Salghir. It is impossible to
say when the ancient town was de-
stroyed, although the discovery of
Eussia. Bcmte 17, — Simjpheropol — Karam-Bazar,
307
Eoman coins has proved that it was
in existence in the 3rd centy. after
Christ.
During the Tartar Khanate, Sim-
pheropol was the site of a village called
Ak-Mechet, or White Mosque. Tradi-
tion says it dated from the early part
of the 16th centy., when Ibrahim-bey,
having received from the Crimean
Khan some lands on the Salghir as a
recompense for a successful expedition
into Bussia, built here a mosque and a
house. In the 17th centy. the village
had grown to considerable importance,
for it had become the residence of the
Kalga-Sultan, or commander-in-chief
of the Khan's troops, who was always
a near relative of the B^han, and fre-
quently succeeded him. As the re-
sidence of the Kalga, it also bore
the name of Sultan-Sarai or Sultan's
Palace.
On the 3rd (15th) July, 1736, Ak-
Mechet was entered by the Bussian
troops under Generals Izmailof and
I3iren, but the inhabitants had fled
two days previously. Their hamlet,
then consisting of 1800 houses, was
thereupon burnt down, after the re-
moval of all the provisions found in it.
It was gradually rebuilt, and, in 1784,
-when the Crimea was annexed to
Ilussia, made the chief town of the
Taurida province under the Greek
name of Simpheropol, or ** Gathering
Town," from the great diversity of its
population.
Like all Kussian provincial towns,
Simpheropol consists of wide, dusty
streets, only partially paved, and lined
Avith large houses, each surroimded
by its own court and garden. The
Tartars confine themselves to a quarter
of the city entirely apart from the
rest of the inhabitants. It is, however,
rather prettily situated on the banks
of the Salghir, which, like all the
streams of the peninsula, is only a
small brook in summer, but often
]:>ecomes a foaming torrent in winter.
The immediate environs are very beau-
tiful, but there is not much to detain
the traveller in the town. An agree-
able excursion may be made up the
valley of the little Salghir, which runs
311 the E., parallel to the river on which
Simpheropol stands. After passing the
villj^e of Mamak, a short distance from
Simpheropol, and then that of Kisil-
koba, shaded by high trees and with a
rivulet running through it, the tra-
veller will come to a very steep ascent
among the rocks, where numberless
fragments of pottery mark the spot as
once having been inhabited. Ascend-
ing the sombre and narrow glen, he
will arrive on the terrace, at the back
of which the Salghir streams forth
from subterranean canals. The stream
appears to have been several times
changed, for above its present place
of exit there are two stages of empty
canals, forming a series of majestic
grottoes. The least elevated, but
file most beautiful, rises above the cas-
cade, with a fine entrance about 20 ft.
high. At half the depth of the cavern
there is a passage of rising ground,
which leads into other canals of such
an extent, that a French gentleman,
having taken provisions and lights,
walked for a whole day with his guide
without reaching the extremity. The
length of these caverns, as far as they
are generally followed, is 700 ft., and
supposing, says Mr. H. D. Seymour,
that the dislocatioa of the strata
which formed them dates from the
raising up of the Jurassic island of
the Crimea, fossil bones might perhaps
be found here of great importance.
9,^ Simpheropol to Theodosia, viS, Ka-
rasU'Bazar and Stary-Krim.
From Simpheropol to Karasu-Bazar
the road is very uninteresting, and
runs over a chal^, undulating ground
with little cultivation and few trees;
half way is the post-station of Konia,
near which are two large tumuli.
Karasu-Bazab, on Karasii and Tunas
rivers. Pop. 14,000. 41 v. from Sim-
pheropol.
Hotels : there are three Tartar inns,
and fifty caravanserais and cofi'ee-
honses. Travellers will be recom-
mended to the best inn by the pro-
prietor of the Hotel at Simpheropol.
Historyy drc— Although the present
808
Boute 17, — Kiram-Bazar — Stary.
Sect. n.
town nndonbtedly owes its origin to
the Tartars, some ardueologists are of
opinion that its site was more anciently
occupied by the Greek town of Manron-
Castron. The caves in the rock of
Ak-Kaya, above the town, likewise
point to great antiquity. Under the
rule of the Tartars, Karasu-Bazar, like
Simpheropol, was the residence of a
EjJea. Many Christians and Jews
dwelt in it with the Tartars, who how-
ever, in 1696, destroyed two of the
churches, and would have pulled down
the synagogue had not the Jews paid
a heavy ransom for it. Whe^h the
Bussians ravaged Bakhchisarai, in
1736, Khan Feta-Ghirei removed his
capital to Karasu-Bazar, which, how-
ever, on the 25th July (6th August),
1737, met with the same fate at the
hands of General Douglas, acting under
the orders of Field-marshal Lassy.
The town surrendered without offer-
ing any opposition, but it was never-
theless plundered and reduced to ashes.
As the inhabitants had previously fled
in great haste, leaving nearly all their
treasures behind them, the loot was
enormous. In 1772, when the Russians
occupied the Crimea, they made it the
basis of their diplomatic intrigues.
They induced the Tartars to elect
Shagni-Ghirei Sultan as their Khan
in lieu of Selim-Ghirei, who had been
forced to take refuge at Constantinople.
Naturally, the new Khan threw off
the old allegiance of his race to the
Turks, and became a vassal of Bussia.
In 1784 Karasu-Bazar became for a
short time the seat of the Bussian ad-
ministration of the Crimea, and in
1787 it was made a depot for the arms
which were taken from the Tartars.
It is now one of the most thriving
industrial and commercial towns in
the peninsula, thanks, mainly, to the
Armenian merchants who settled
among its otherwise exclusively Tartar
population. Its position on the high
road from Simpheropol to Kertch and
Theodosia has likewise contributed
much towards its prosperity. The
neighbouring countiy is very fertile,
and the vineyards and orchards, shel-
tered from the N. by the white peak of
Ak-Kaya, produce wine and fruit in
abundance. Tallow, wool, and hides
are likewise considerable articles of
export The inhabitants are skilful
in the art of making shoes, saddles,
and shaggy felt cloaks; and the town
was once celebrated for its cutlery.
The only public edifices of any im-
portance are the khans or caravan-
sarais, where merchants rest on their
journeys, and of these there are nearly
fifty. The largest, called the Tache-
khany was built in 1656 by Sefir Ghazi
Atch^in, Minister of Mehmet Ghirey,
and is an immense square edifice, pre-
senting outside only four blank walls,
but in the inside there is a large court,
occupied with rooms for travellers, and
a number of shops. The khan of the
Armenians contrasts fovourably with
the others in point of luxury and com-
fort.
There are 24 mosques in Karasu-
Bazar, but none of tifiem remarkable
for beauty; also a Catholic ch., 2
Greek chs., an Armenian ch., and
several synagogues. The Bussio-Greek
ch. deserves a visit : it is built in the
shape of a cross, with a dome which
lights the centre. The cemeteries
round the town are of enormous extent,
and from that of the Greeks there is
an admirable view of the town, with
its red-tiled houses, winding streets,
and shady gardens.
In the neighbourhood of Karasu-
Bazar are some flourishing German
colonies, which, like those in other
parts of the Eussian empire, form a
striking contrast to the backwardness
in agriculture of the native popula-
tion.
The domains of the Shirin family,
the second in rank after that of the
Ghireys, begin at Karasu-Bazar, and
extend to Kertch. The traveller wiU
pass the Shirinskaya Gora, or hill of
the Shirins, on which meetings of their
dependants used to be held when they
disapproved of the conduct of the
khans.
A drive of about 17 m. will bring
the traveller to
Staby or EsKi Kbih, 66 v. firom
Simpheropol, and ^5 v. from Karasu-
Bazar, on river ChUruk-su. Pop. 1000.
Bnssia.
Bouite 17. — Stary — Theodosta.
809
History, &c, — Tliis was the most
ancient capital of the Tartars after
their conquest of the Crimea. It is
supposed to have been the site of
ancient Kimmerion or Erimni; and
some ruins in the neighbourhood, and
particularly those of some fortifications
on the top of Oglti-obk, would seem to
favour this supposition. Its import-
ance as a town is, however, to be dated
from the middle ages. In 1252 Baty-
Khan, who conquered Bussia, buUt
here a magnificent palace, and Erim
began to spread ana to grow rich by
commerce, the peninsula itself taking
the name of the town. It was also a
great slave-market^ and Eastern writers
affirm that " it is scarcely possible to
ride round the town on a good horse in
half a day." After 1265 some Turks
came over to Erim from Dobrudja,
under the leadership of Sadii-Saltiik,
who is considered a saint by the Ma-
homedans. In 1287 the Sultan of
Egvpt caused a magnificent mosque to
be built here of marble and porphyry
at his own expense. Another hand-
some mosque was built in 1314. In
the 14th centy . the Ghireys established
their capital at Erim, which began to
£ei11 when the residence was removed
to Bakhchisarai. The Tartar governors
of Erim made treaties with the
Genoese Consuls of Eaffii. In 1434
the Genoese tried to take possession
of the city, but were driven back. In
1478, however, it was taken and sacked
by Seid Ahmet, ELhan of the Grolden
Horde, whose dominions Mengli-Ghirey
had invaded. Its decadence was com-
plete at the end of the 1&^ centy.
The Bussians called it Leucopol for
a short time, but its old name was
restored when the seat of administra-
tion was removed to Simpheropol.
It is now comparatively deserted,
and scarce any traces remain of the
great city where the rich caravans of
olden times used to come laden with
all the precious products of Asia. The
traces of the pavements of the streets
may be observed in the fields that now
occupy its site. The ruins of five
mosques and large vaulted baths re-
main; and one Greek ch. and two
mosques are still used for religious
purposes, one of them being the ancient
place of worship. The Armenians,
who constitute nearly half the popu-
lation, have a ch., as well as a con-
vent, built in 1340, and dedicated to
St. George. It stands on the neigh-
bouring hill of Eara-su, which is the
object of numerous pilgrimages.
The best view of the town is from
the hill of Aghermish, which embraces
the whole valley, once occupied by
buildings, and on one side may be
traced the remains of the ancient wall,
flanked with towers, which surrounded
the city, and included an enormous
cemeterjr, in which tombs may still be
seen of every variety of form.
Passing now over a flat, treeless, and
arid steppe, the traveller will arrive at
Theodosia, the ancient EaflESa, 23 v.
from Stary-Erim, on river Churuk-su.
Pop. 9000.
Steamers leave twice a week both for
Eertch and for Odessa, stopping at
several ports.
History^ &c. — It has been authen-
tically ascertained liiat the present
town of Theodosia was originally
founded by MUesian-Greeks, who either
came direct from Miletus, or from the
neighbouring colony of PanticapsBum,
500 years before Christ. The fertility
of the surrounding country, which was
at one time the principal granary of
ancient Greece, probably caused the
town to be called Theodosia or God's
Gift. By the Tauro-Scythians it was
for some time called Ajrdavdk, or the
♦* City of the Seven Gods." At the be-
ginning of the 3rd centy. before Christ
it was incorporated with the kingdom
of Bosporus (Eertch), and together
with the latter was later annexed to
the Boman empire. Its destruction
was effected in the middle of the 2nd
centy. after Christ, at the beginning
of Ihe "great migration of peoples.
For a period of ten centuries after, the
plough passed over the site of Theo-
dosia, and it is barely mentioned by
contemporaneous historians.
At last, in the 13th centy., the Genoese
purchased from Ehan Oran Timur
the deserted territory of Theodosia^ and
built on it a town which they called
310
BotUe 17.— Kaffa.
Sect. II.
Kaffa. The date of its foundation is
between 1263 and 1267. The Vene-
tians, jealous of their rivals, surprised
Kaffa with a feet of 20 galleys, and
utterly destroyed the town. The
Genoese, however, soon returned, and,
assisted by a colony of Armenians, re-
built the town, and extended its com-
merce to such an extent that the
Italians began to call the Crimean
peninsula ** Isola di CJaflfo." They at
the same time enlarged their dominion
on the coast, and built many other
fortresses, but Kaffa was the principal
seat of their power, and consisted of a
cdftrvm hurguSf and anUburgi, each sur-
rounded by a stone wall. At Kaffa
the Genoese colonies were governed by
a Consul, annually elected by the Doge
and citizens of the metropoUs ; but he
appears to have been subjected to a
supreme ruler, or Podesta, who resided
at Galata. In 1318 Pope John XXII.
erected ELaffa into a bishopric.
A war having broken out with the
Tartars in 1343, Djanibek, Khan of
Kipchak, besieged Kaffa, and a cru-
sade was preached in its favour by
Clement VI. The Genoese were vic-
torious, but the danger to which they
had been exposed made them feel the
necessity of a formidable system of
fortification. The southern ramparts
and palisades of the town were re-
placed by high and thick walls, flanked
with towers, and surrounded by a
deep ditch, flanked with masonry.
These magnificent works, of which
even the traveller of the present day
may admire the excellent execution,
were commenced in 1353 by Godefrey
di Zoaglio, and finished in 1386 by
Benedict Grimaldi. The most re-
markable tower of the enceinte, the
southern one, which commands the
whole town, was consecrated to the me-
mory of Pope Clement VI., with an
inscription relating to the crusade
preached by him at the moment the
Tartars were besieging the colony. In
1365 the Genoese conquered the Greek
colonies of Cembalon (Balaclava), and
Soldaya (Sudak), which were then
tributary to the Khan of the Tartars,
and in 1380 obtained from him a
grant of Gothia, or all the sea-coast
between Balaclava and Sudak, which
was inhabited by the Christians.
The history of Kaffei is so interest-
ing that we cannot avoid making
another long extract from Mr. H. D.
Seymour's work.
The Genoese colony thus arrived in
the middle of the 15th centy. at the
zenith of its glory and power, when
the capture of Constantinople by Ma-
homet II. isolated it from the mother
city, and prepared the way for its en-
tire destruction. On the 1st June,
1475, 482 sail of galleys, commanded
by the grand admiral Aldmiet Pasha,
appeared before Kaffa, and some hours
afterwards the Genoese town saw its
walls bombarded by the formidable
artillery of the Ottomans. The siege
lasted only a short time, and a large
portion of the enceinte, raised at a
time when artillery was unknown,
gave way; breaches were multiplied,
and on the 6th of June, 1475, the be-
sieged surrendered at discretion, after
having in vain attempted to obtain a
capitulation. Akhmet Pasha entered
Kaffa» irritated by resistance, and
hostile to the Christian name. After
taking possession of the Consular
Palace, he disarmed the population,
levied a large sum of money on the
town, and seized half the property of
the inhabitants, as well as all slaves
of both sexes. The Latin Catholics
were then embarked on board the
Turkish fleet and carried to Constan-
tinople, where the Sultan established
them by force in the suburbs of his
new capital, after taking 1500 of their
male children to incorporate in his
guards.
The Turks confided the govern-
ment of the town to a Pasha, but its
revenues were paid over to the Khan
of the Crimea. In the middle of the
17th centy. the ancient Genoese city
had again become considerable. In 16^
Chardin found in the Bay of Kaffii
more than 400 ships. The town was
then called by the Turks Kutchuk
Stambul (Little Constantinople), and
had more than 4000 houses, and above
80,000 Inhab. Merchants from Mos-
cow visited it ; but it appears that
they were badly treated, and some-
Bussia.
Boute 17.— Kaffa.
811
times made to dig ditches, carry stones,
and generally to work in repairing the
fortifications, which their countryraen
were destined later to destroy so ruth-
lessly.
In 1771, after a bombardment, Kaffa
was taken by the Bussian troops, and
in 1787 generously raised to the dig-
nity of district town, under the name
of Theodosia; but while on the one
hand the Bussian government ap-
pointed a sufiragan bishop to Earn,
and erected a mint and a custom-
house, on the other, its agents were
suffered to commit acts of vandalism
which can never be forgiven or for-
gotten. As at Sudak, the erection of
barracks was the signal for the de-
struction of the ancient Genoese monu-
ments. The revetements of the ditches
were first carried away, and then the
walls themselves disappeared. The
magnificent towers which defended
them were successively thrown down,
and at this day there exist only three
remnants of the remarkable bastion
christened in honour of Pope Clement
VI. The great Turkish baths, an ad-
mirable monument of Oriental archi-
tecture, and the ancient episcopal ch.
of the Genoese, an edifice built in the
14th centy., and then converted into a
mosque after the Tartar conquest,
met with the same fate. The baths
were pulled down, says Mr. H. D.
Seymour, "in a most barbarous and
ignorant manner," in 1833, by Mr.
Kasnatcheief, the civil governor of the
town, in order to make room for a
parade-ground; while the mosque,
after having been partially pulled
down for the purpose of being con-
verted into a ch. of the Busso-Greek
faith, and the lead of the roofs con-
verted into bullets, was abandoned to
the injuries of the weather and public,
and soon became a perfect ruin, for
want of funds to complete its conver-
sion into a Christian ^ifice. In 1840
the great square of the town was filled
with the precious materials, which
were then being sold at the price of
common stone. All the beautiful gar-
dens and the rich orchards which
surrounded the town in the time of
the Tartars have disappeared. One
single winter was sufficient for the
two regiments that were stationed
there to annihilate every trace of the
brilliant cultivation which formerly
covered the hills.
From the fort of the tower of Cle-
ment VI. there is a fine view of the
town and bay. In the midst of the
panorama rises the ancient Genoese
citadel, now dismantled, with its walls
threatening to fall down. Before the
citadel, an edifice, remarkable by its
2 massive groups of building, but
without any exterior ornament, is the
principal Armenian ch., which the emi- ,
grants of that nation constructed when
they arrived here under the protection
of the Genoese, after the terrible earth-
quake of 1319, which destroyed their
celebmted city Anni, in the pashalik
of Kars. The ch. in question has
been converted into a warehouse, but
its interior has preserved the distribu-
tion of the religious edifices of Ar-
menia — a grand oratory as an entrance,
then a nave, a dome, and a choir, with
lateral sacristies.
Another ch., likewise a monument
of the Genoese epoch, and which was
restored by the Armenians after the
Bussian occupation, deserves a careful
study, as a good and well-preserved
specimen of Armenian architecture.
The portico is the most ornamental
part of the edifice, and the mouldings
and roses are as varied as in Gothic
and Byzantine styles. There are two
images of St. George, the saint in
whom the Armenians and the Georg-
ians have so much confidence, and the
walls of the ch. are covered both in-
side and outside with funeral crosses,
as in Armenia.
There is a miiseum at Theodosia,
which is an ancient Turkish mosque,
with two lions at its entrance, brought
from Phanagoria. Among the ancient
Greek monuments is a griffin of fine
workmanship. There are also many
Genoese inscriptions, and among them
an important one foimd on the tower
of Pope Clement VI.
A short distance from the town is
the residence of the celebrated marine
painter Aivazofsky, who is married to
an English lady, and a visit to whose
812
Boute U.—Suddk.
Sect.Il.
studio should, if ^possible, be made by
the traveller.
From Eupatoria the traveller may
proceed to Kertch, either by the road
(97 v.), or by steamer, which takes
about 8 hrs.
10. Alushta to Theodosia and Kertchy
by way of Sudak,
Travellers who may wish to con-
tinue their journey along the coast to
Theodosia will consult the following
itinerary.
A ride of 8 nules along a sterile
and desert shore of the E. coast will
bring the traveller to the valley of the
Ulu Uzm, past a very pretty residence
that once belonged to an English lady ;
and some miles further on is the Bay
of Sudak, and the former residence of
MUe. Jacquemart, already mentioned.
The cataract of Jurjur and the grotto
of Tilak lie between Alushta and
Theodosia, in the valley of Sudak,
which is extremely fertile and pic-
turesque, producing a very good imi-
tation of Champagne.
Sudak, a small hamlet 83 v. from
Theodosia. Pop. 370.
History. — ^A Greek author of the
13th centy. states that the fortress of
Sugdei was built a.d. 212, and in the
8th centy. after Christ a bishopric had
already existed here for a considerable
time. It became known about the
same time under the name of Suroj to
the Bussians, who attacked it in the
middle of the 9th century, and ever
after held communication with it.
Its merchants, who traded at Moscow
in silks, were anciently called " men
of Suraj," and their goods ** Surajski
goods," whence to this day mercery
goods are called in Bussian Surovski^.
The Azof Sea is likewise called
**Surojski^ More" in old Bussian
chronicles. The celebrity of Sudak,
Soldaya, or Sugdei, as it was indif-
ferently called at various times, begins
properly in the 13th centy., when it
belonged to the Venetians, and when it
as the centre of their trade vdth the
countries to the N. and S. of the
Euxine.
The Tartars took it for the first
time in 1223, but were repulsed in
1249. They attacked it again, and
ravaged it in 1322. The remonstrance
of the pope, John XXn., was, how-
ever, sufficient in 1332 to procure from
Usbek Khan the restitution of the
city to the Christians; but in 1327
it was laid waste for a third time
by the Tartars. At last, on the ISth
June, 1365, the Genoese took it from
the Venetians and fortified it, together
with 18 villages, which they at the
same time obtained by treaty from the
khan, whom they continued to recog-
nise as suzerain. It was then that
these bold merchants raised on the
most inaccessible part of the rock the
formidable fortress with 3 stages, of
which the ruins still remain, and on
which the Genoese sentinels were ever
on the alert to watch over the port,
the sea, and the neighbouring coun-
try. The city was governed, by a
special consul, who was at the same
tune commandant of the fortress.
The Genoese remained imdisturbed .
possessors of their castle for more than y
a century, but, after the taking of
Constantmople and the destniction of
BLaflfe., Soldaya fell to the Turks, who
in 1475 reduced it by famine. Aban-
doned by its old population, the city
was reduced to the position of an
insignificant military post when the
Bussians took it in the 17th centnry.
Then began, as at ELaffa and else-
where, the destruction of the monu-
ments of the Genoese. Several public
and private buildings, which Pallas
admired so much in 1793 for their
beautiful architecture, disappeared,
and their precious remains were used
in the construction of huge barracks
that were later abandoned, and now
form an ugly ruin. Sufficient, how-
ever, still remains to tempt the tiar
veller to visit Sudak on his way to
Kertch. The following is, like most
of the above, extracted from Mr. H. I), f
Seymour's work :— :
**The traveller threading his way
among the vineyards may approach
the pyramidal rock on which are built
Cussia*
Moute 17. — SudcJc.
813
le three stages of the vast and care-
illy- constructed fortress which once
rotected the surrounding city of Sol-
aya. The rock is inaccessible on the
de of the sea, but may easily be
pproached from the interior of the
illey, where it opens on a broad ter-
ice, defended by an immense rampart
a,nked by ten towers.
" The entrance-gate is defended by
a exterior work; and in front of it,
here a German colony has lately been
Lanted, Hiere formerly stood the
enoese part of the town of Soldaya.
letween the colony and the gate is a
Bautiful fountain of ancient work-
lanship, the water of which formerly
ipplied the fortress, and above it is
Laced a bas-relief which has been
rought from the ruins, of St. George
illing the dragon, and the escutcheon
f the Doge Adorno. Over the gate is
a inscription declaring it to have
een built in the year 1385, when the
oble and puissant lord, James Gor-
)vi, was the consul and castellan of
oldaya.
" On entering the gate the traveller
;and8 within the lower fortress, and
nds the ground covered with ruins.
Eere are the immense brick cisterns
hich contained enough water to sup-
ly the garrison for several years ; and
le aqueduct of earthen tubes, which
inducted the raiu-water from the
)cks above is still visible. Near
; are the remains of some Genoese
ouses in the Gothic style with dates
ad escutcheons, the only ones which
icaped destruction when the Russians
jcupied the place. Here are also
le most uninteresting remains of the
uge Russian barracks above men-
oned.
" Beyond the ruins of the barracks,
1 the N.E. comer of the platform,
here the rock overhangs the sea with
sheer precipice, is a curious edifice
hich bears traces of many styles of
pchitecture. It must have been ori-
inally built as a mosque, because it
oes not look E, and W. like a Chris-
an church, but N. and S., with the
Itar, formerly the mahdrah of the
losque, turned in the direction of
[ecca. It was probably raised by the
Tartars when, in a moment of fSsoiati-
cism, they drove the Greek Christians
from Sudak in the beginning of the
14th centy., as the arrangement of the
parts and the style of the ornaments
are of an earlier disite than the Turkish
occupation.
^ A steep path leads from near the
church to the middle fortress, called
BLatara-Koull^, built in a ledge of the
precipitous rock, with the sea chafing
round its base. The principal tower
is constructed in the noble style of the
15th centy.
'' A narrow path along the edge of
the precipice leads to the third and
highest fortress, called the Eiz-Koulle
(the Girl's Tower),' which is the real
acropolis on the summit of the rock,
and consists of a simple square tower,
placed hke the eyrie of an eagle, com-
manding a view of the expanse of the
sea, the whole of the fortifications, the
recesses of the valley, and the circuit
of the ancient town of Sudak, in which
the smallest details may be observed.
" The eye also follows the windings
of the coast as fSar as Castele and Ai-
Udagh, and wanders over the terraces
of the Tauric chain that rise one above
the other, while turning round and
looking inland the traveller sees the
Swiss colony which has replaced the
Scythian Greeks, Romans, Genoese,
and Turks, and occupies the entrance
of the beautiful gulf of verdure which
stretches inland in. the midst of the
dark grey rocks."
The best view of the valley of the
Sudak and the surrounding country is
from the monastery of St. George,
pla<3ed on a high mountain, a projec-
tion from which runs into the sea, and
forms the eastern side of the bay.
Near Sudak are extensive vineyards,
cultivated before the Crimean wax by
a French company.
At Koktebel, a little village on the
border of the sea, about 20 m. from
Sudak, the really mountainous parts
of the Crimea begin. Beyond it the
country possesses no features of pic-
turesque beauty. On all the line from
Sudak to Theodosia there is no ancient
monument or rui^rgmzed Dy ^^w^iV
su
Boute 17. — Opuh — Kertch,
Sect. IL
Theodosia. For deeoription vide
9, Simpheropol to Theodosia.
About 10 V. from Theodosia the
main road to Kertch (which runs
through a country described by Strabo
as ** rich in corn, and full of inhabit-
ants ") leaves the coast and runs N.E.
to the post station of
Parpatch, about 22 v. from Theodo-
sia : thence to
Arghin, 21 v. E. from Parpatch,
and
Sultanofka, 22 y. from Arghin.
From this station the traveller might
make an excursion to
Opuk, a Tartar village 60 v. from
Theodosia, and about 45 from Kertch.
The hiU of OpuJc is raised about 50 ft.
above a chaotic mass of rocks below,
which descend like steps to the sea,
forming on one side Cape Elen-Kaya
or Kara. Here in very ancient times
a numerous population was established.
At a short distance from the shore are
2 rocky islands called Karavi, and by
these the place is identified as the
ancient Kimmericum. The S.E. ex-
tremis of the rock was the Acropolis,
cut oflf from the plain by a wall 200 ft.
long and 9 ft. thick ; the walls of it
are about 50 ft. square and 12 ft. thick,
and a ditch cut in the rock separated
it from the exterior town. There are
ruins and grottoes all round, and there
is a block cut into the form of a
pedestal, on which stood the statue of
a divinity. There is likewise a well
cut in the rock, and a great deal of
pottery. A large gate communicated
from the Acropolis to ihe town. Num-
berless remains of houses may be
traced on the S.E. There were also
exterior fortifications, and a polygonal
wall defended the whole peninsula
between the bay and the gulf, embrac-
ing a space of about 4 square miles.
Thus there were 2 castles and 2 ports,
and probably villas and gardens,
"within the circuit of the wall. The
Genoese are supposed to have carried
away the- remains of Kimmericum, in
order to build Kafia.
On the coast between Opuk and
Kertch, at about 12 m. from the latter,
is the site of ancient Nymphseumf
which was founded at the same time
as PanticapsBum, and fell into the
power of the Athenians in the time of
Pericles. It was betrayed into the
hands of the Bosporians in B.C. 410.
In the time of Mithridates it was still
a strong place, where he lodged the
greater part of the army which he
destined for his grand expedition by
the Danube and the Alps against the
Romans. Nymphsaum afterwards ra-
pidly decayed, and in the time of
Pliny existed only as a name.
The town was situated on the angle
between the ancient gulf and the Bos-
porus. The rampart is easily traced,
and the suburbs were around the
metropolis. There are large masses
of ruins everywhere, and the soil is
several feet deep in broken pottery,
much of which is Etruscan. At
about one-third of a mile from the
town the tvmidi begin. A small
colony of Bussians is established at
the foot of the Acropolis, on the side
of the Bosporus ; and here are wells of
excellent water, which date from the
time of Nymph8Bum. Large quanti-
ties of herrings are caught here.
The traveller who has not made this
digression will proceed from Sultanof-
ka to Kertch, and make from thence
excursions to Opuk and to the vast
number of other ruins and tumuli
scattered all over the country from
Theodosia.
Kertch, 23 v. from Sultanofka. 88
V. from Theodosia, and 201 v. from
Simpheropol. Pop. 21,000, with Eni-
kale.
Hietory, &c, — The history of Kertch
goes back to the 6th centy. before
Christ, vsrhen Greeks from Miletus
established on its site a colony which
they called PanticapsBum, which later
became the capital of the '* Kingdom
of the Bosporus," the first sovereigns of
which, it is supposed, were of Scythian
origin. In the first centy, before
Christ the Bosporians paid tribute to
Mithridates King of Pontus, whose
son Pharuaces rebelled, and became
the progenitor of a new line of Bos-
porian kings, whose rule was main-
tained und^^'thd^irfdt^lion of the
Eussin.
Houie 17. — Kci'tch
815
Komans until the 4th centy. of the
Christian era. They even extended
their dominions, as we have akeady
seen, along the -whole of the coast
of the Crimea, and even to the shores
of the Sea of Azof. The kingdom of
the Bosporus was destroyed during the
great migration of nations, and its
history after that event remains some-
what obscure. While the city was
under the dominion of the Emperors of
the East it was frequently ravaged by
barbarous tribes, and particularly in
the 7th centy. by the Khazars, who had
then taken possession of the Taurida.
The Tartars, having occupied the pen-
insula in the 13th centy., ceded the
Bosporus in 1318 to the Genoese, who
began to call the ancient town Cerkio,
and converted it into a prosperous em-
porium of trade ; but at the end of the
15th centy. Kertch fell into the hands of
the Turks, who made it one of their mili-
tary harbours. Its importance as such
was considerably increased when the
naval war between Kussia and Turkey
commenced. In 1771 Kertch was occu-
pied by a Russian coips, and together
with Enikale was ceded to Eussia by
the treaty of Kuchuk-Kainardji. It
then became a basis of the Russian
operations against the Tartars. Many
Greeks from the Archipelago were
subsequently settled here, and later,
emigrants from Roumania, Bulgaria,
and Varna.
Kertch remained a military station
until 1821, when the fortifications
were dismantled, and the town was
opened to maritime trade under an
independent municipality. It was next
made a quarantine station; but its
foreign trade has remained very in-
considerable, the principal industry of
the inhabitants being the raising of
salt and fishing. In 1855 the town
was occupied by an Enghsh and Tmk-
ish force for more than a year. The
effects of a bombardment are still
visible in dismantled houses and ruined
public buildings. The museum on
the Hill of Mithridates, of which the
contents were fortunately removed by
the Russians, is likewise in ruins.
Kertch, like all Greek colonies, is
charmingly situated. A hill called
jBtMs/a.— 1868,
the Arm Chair of Mithridates rises
at a short distance from the shore.
Around it was originally built the old
Greek town, and on its sides were onco
clustered a variety of Greek temples,
crowned on the top by the Acropolis.
The Tmkish fortress below the hill
has been cleared away to make room
for a handsome square, surrounded by
arcades, from which streets diverge in
all directions. Two or three days may
very well be spent in visiting the num-
berless ancient remains in the neigh-
bourhood. The ch. of Kertch, which
formerly stood in the fortress, is a
curious specimen of Byzantine archi-
tecture, and the date of its erection
engraven on one of its columns (a.d.
757) proves it to be the oldest Byzan-
tine temple now remaining in the
Crimea. The Acropolis was an irre-
gular polygon in shape, and the ditches
and some parts of the walls (the latter
in the coarse limestone of Kertch) may
still be traced. The fortified town
touched the Acropolis in the form of a
long square, of which the Acropolis
occupied the-S.E. angle. The wall in
its circuit enclosed only the summit
and the northern slope of the Hill of
Mithridates. The southern side seems
never to have been fortified, altbougli
there are numerous traces of the foun-
dations of buildings.
Mr. H. D. Seymour says that the
"Arm Chair" is evidently only part
of an ancient edifice in which it was
included, the form of which may be
traced by the foundations of the
walls. The principal gate of the town
was turned towards the interior of
the peninsula, in the centre of the
western wall. It led to Nyrnphajum
and Theodosia, and the place is easily
recognised by the interruption of the
deep ditch which ran along it. At
240 yds. from the gate which led to
Theodosia was an avenue of tumuli^
ranged several rows deep on each side,
in an irregular manner, and continuing
for two-thirds of a mile. This long
series of tombs, continues Mr. H. D.
Seymour, seems to date, in great
measure, from the fomululion of the
town by the Milesians. At a later
period the dwellings of the dead be-
Q
316
Boute 17, — Kertck
Sect. n.
came more extended, and occupied the
range of liills in continuation of Mount
Mitiiridates for 6 or 7 m. in length,
and here are found the tomhs of the
kings. Tumuli are also found on the
other side of tlie low plain to the N.,
where they form three grand groups,
the beet known of which is near the
modem Quarantine. The gate to the
N. ■ of the Theodosian gate led to
the Greek city of Dia, near Kamish-
borhn. Along it were the tombs of the
poorer inhabitants, who buried their
urns and cinders around a coral-rag
245 ft. above the level of the
The enormous quantity of tumuli
round Eertch forms one of the distin-
guishing features of the place. Many
of them have been pillaged in ancient
as well as in modem days, and some
have been unfortunately opened with-
out sufficient care. Scientific researches
were first made in the neighbourhood
of Kertch in 1825, when Blaramberg
found a considerable number of gold
ornaments, but the excavations of 1830
yielded a far greater prize in the shape
of an undisturbed tomb of a Bosporian
kiijg and queen. It was found in the
tumulus of Kul-Uba, 6 v. S.W. of
Kertch, on the road to Theodosia. The
gold and silver ornaments weighed
more than 100 lbs. avoirdupois, but
the greater part of them were stolen
the night after tlieir discovery, and the
government only succeeded in 1859 in
purchasing that portion of the treasures
which is now exhibited in the Her-
mitage at St. Petersburg. Many other
tumuli were subsequently opened, and
their valuable contents properly se-
cured. One of the latest and richest
discoveries was made in 1 858, when a
sarcophagus of cypress- wood was found
in a tumulus on the Pavlosk battery.
(For a description of its treasures vide
" Hennitage, St. Petersburg," and Mr.
H. D. Seymour's work.)
Enikale is at the point of tlie penin-
sula, about 7 m. from Kertch, to the
N.E. Its castle was built by the
IMrks to command the passage of
the Bosporas.
From Kertch the traveller will either
return by boat to Odessa, or continue
his journey to Bostof on the Don. and
Novocherkask, and thence up the
Volga; or he may go by steamer to
the Caucasus.
A very pleasant and instructive
excursion may likewise be made from
Kertch to Taman, the ancient Phana-
goria. The steamers of the Bussian
Black Sea Navigation Company main-
tain the communication.
Steamers. — The steamer for the Cau-
casus leaves Kertch on the same day
that the boat arrives from Theodosia,
so that a delightful excursion to the
grand coasts of the eastern shores of
the Black Sea is quite feasible. The
steamer touches at Novorossisk,
Tuapse, and Sukhum Kale, and reaches
Poti in about 60 hrs. from Kertch.
From Poti the traveller can proceed
by the steamers of the Russian Steam
Navigation Company to Batoum,
Trebizond, and Constantinople, thus
making the entire circuit of the Black
Sea. The boat from Batoum arrives
at Constantinople in time to catch the
Messageries Imp^riales steamer for
Marseilles. The traveller may remain
on board these steamers while they
are in harbour upon making an arrange-
ment with the steward for his board, —
a proceeding which he will find more
reasonable than the charges at an hotel.
Consulate. — There is a Britisf^ Consul
at Kertch.
d by Google
Hussia.
Boute 18. — Kertch to Tmritsin.
317
ROUTE 18.
KBBTCH TO TSARITSIN ON THE VOLGA,
BY R08T0P.
After coaling at Kertcli, the Crimean
steamer proceeds through the Straits
of Enikak for the ports of the Sea of
Azof. The coast on either side is un-
interesting, and the sea is of dirty
colour and pea-soup consistency. In
autumn the surface of the water is
thickly matted with weeds, but the
great quantity of shipping gives life
and variety to the scene. The first
place of stoppage (in about 12 hrs. from
Kertch) is
Berdiansk. Pop. 10,000.
This maritime town was founded by
Prince WoronzoflF in 1827. It has a
considerable trade in grain, linseed,
tallow, &c. ; also in salt, which is raised
in the neighbourhood; and it is the
seat of a British consulate. There is
nothing to interest the traveller at
Berdiansk; In about 24 hrs. after
leaving Kertch the steamer will cast
anchor at
Mariupol, near mouth of Kalmius
riv. Pop. 6000.
This was originally a colony of
Greeks from the Crimea, who, in 1779,
to the number of 18,000, obtained free,
grants of land on this part of the coast.
The population is still almost exclu-
sively Greek. There are five Greek
churches. In the Ch, of the Assump-
tion is a miracle-working picture of the
Virgin, brought there by the Greeks
who removed from Bakhtchisarai. It
was on the Kalchik river, which falls
into the Kalmius a little above the
town of Mariupol, that the Russian
princes met with their first defeat at
the hands of the Mongols, in 1224.
Vide Hist. Notice. *« Battle of Khalka."
In about 6 hrs. tfie steamer wiQ cross
over to the opposite coast, and stop for
a short time at
EiSK, at the mouth of the Ei river.
Pop. 20,000.
Founded in 1848, this town has
grown rapidly in population, to whom
an immunity from taxation was granted
until the year 1859. It has a smaU
trade in com, wheat, and linseed. In
10 or 12 hrs. the steamer will have
reached the end of her voyage at
Taganrog. For description vide
Ete. 15.
During the summer (from May to
4th (16th) October) steamers leave
Taganrog three times a week for Rostof.
Fare 2} rs. Passage in about 6 hrs.
EosTOP, on river Don. Pop. 29,000.
Steamers, 4;o.— The traveller bound
to the Volga is recommended to go
at once on board the steamer which
ascends the Don twice a week to Ka-
latch, and secure a sofa. The boats
have one large cabin common to all
Ist-class passengers, and one for the
2nd class. There is also a ladies' cabin,
and a deck-house for the use of the Ist-
class passengers. A cabin with two
berths may, however, frequently be
secured, the charge for the latter being
50 rs., while the Ist-class fare to Ka-
latch is only 17 rs., with the addition
of 70 cop. per pond for any luggage in
excess of 1 poud. The charge lor living
on board is 1^ r. a day, exclusive of
wine ; and a gratuity to the steward
of i r. at the end of the voyage will
be sufficient. As the steamers do not
run through the night, the voyage
occupies about 2| days, the distance
being about 350 versts.
Mistonjy &c, — The history of Bostof
dates only from 1761, when the Em-
press Elizabeth caused a fortress to be
built there, near the fort of St. Anne,
raised by Peter the Great, and in-
tended both to keep the Cossacks in
proper awe and submission, and
as a basis of operations against the
Turks. The towns of Rostof and Nak-
hichevan subsequently grew up in the
vicinity of the fortifications. The now
dismantled/or<re88o//Sff. Dimitry, esta-
blished in tlio reign of the empress,
lies between the two towns. Rostof
is very picturesquely situated on the
Q 2
318
Boute 19. — Bostof to NovocherJcash
Sect. 11.
elevated rt. bank of the Don, at the
mouth of the Tememik rivulet. It
is now a considerable, and still im-
proving, place of trade. Large fairs
are held twice a year, when great
numbers of homed cattle and horses
are brought for sale.
There is nothing to interest the
traveller at Bostof, and he will direct
his attention principally to the beau-
tiful scenery of some parts of the Don,
and to the novelty of the life with
which he is surrounded.
The Don, the ancient Tana'is, is one
of the most important rivers of Bussia
in Europe. Rising in a lake (Ivan-
ozero) in the province of Tula, its course
as far as the Sea of Azof is about 1300
Eug. m. in length. The river becomes
somewhat navigable in its middle
course, between the mouth of the
Voronej riv., and the stat. of Kachalin,
74 V. above Kalatch, where it flows
through a chalky formation. From
Kachalin the rt. bs^ rises considerably,
exhibiting strata of the upper tertiary
formation, whilst the 1. bank is low and
frequently inundated in spring. The
celebrated vineyards of the Don stretch
along the rt. bank of the river, through-
out its lower course, which terminates
in a delta a little below Rostof. The
utmost activity prevails on the middle
and lower courses of the river. The
quantity of goods floated down the
Don in 1860 weighed 135,000 tons, of
the value of 4 J millions of roubles. The
fisheries on the lower course of the Don
have been a monopoly of the Don Cos-
sacks since the 17th centy. The yield
of fish becomes particularly ricli from
the Aksai station. The quantity of
fish annually taken before 1860 was
about 16,380 tons, in addition to 7
million herrings. A thousand pouds
of caviar (160 tons) are annually ex-
tracted from the sturgeon, which is the
principal fish caught, and of which the
great mass is smoked on the spot. Fish-
ing is likewise carried on in winter^
when the fish taken through holes in
the ice are allowed to freeze, and are
carried over the whole of Russia in a
frozen state.
At Kalatch, now the most impor-
tant wharf on the Don, the traveller vrill
take rail for Tsaritsin on the Volga.
The railway was opened in 1861 by an j
American Company, but is now in the ^
hands of the government. It is well
made, and the carriages are very com-
fortable. The distance is 73 v., and
the fare, 1st class, 2 rs. 19 c. It is
best to go on board the Volp;a steamer
at once, and secure a berth. From
Tsaritsin the traveller can either ascend
the river to Nijni Novgorod (fare 35 rs.
exclusive of living), or he may pro-
ceed downwards, and visit Astrakhan
(295 m.) and Astrabad on the Caspian,
returning by the same route; for de-
scription of which vide Rte. 9, the
Volga : Tver to Astrakhan.
ROUTE 19.
EOSTOP TO NOVOCHERKABK.
A very pleasant excursion may l>e
made from Rostof, either by rail or by
steamer, to Novocherkask, the capital
of the Don Cossacks, and by rail to the
coal-fields of Grushevka, 66 v. from
Rostof.
NOVOOHEBKASK. Pop. 20,000.
History^ &c. — ^The town is very
prettily situated on an eminence, on
three sides of which flow the Aksai i
and Tursova rivulets. The territory
of which it is the capital has an area
of 2806 square geographical miles, and
Boute 20.— London to Tiflis.
319
its limits will be seen defined on the
map. It was well known to the
ancients, for the Greeks had a colony
(Tana) on the shore of the Sea of Azof,
5 cents. b.o., and several fectories
along the Don. The greater part of the
country was held successively by the
Scythians, Sarmatians, Huns, Bolgars,
Khazars, and lastly by the Tartars,
who defeated the ftussian princes, in
1224, on the Ehalka, within the present
territory of the Don Cossacks, as already
stated. The present population dates
from the early part of the 16th centy.,
when renegades from Moscow, vagrants
of every description, formed themselves
into military or rather robber com-
munities, and styled themselves " Cos-
sacks.** In the 16th and 17th cents,
they frequently made expeditions
against the Tartars and Turks, and
in 1637 took the Turkish fortress of
AjK>f, which tiiey were, however, forced
to relinquish five years later. Until
the reign of Peter the Great the
Russians did not interfere much with
the powerful and independent Cossacks,
jut from 1718 they were gradually
>rought under the power of the Tsars,
vhom they assisted in all subsequent
vars. Episodes in the history of the
Jossacks will be found scattered
hroughout this Handbook.
The town of Novocherkask, founded
n 1804, has considerably improved
inder the Hetmanship of General
'otapoff, whose palace and garden
fiould be visited by the traveller. Not
ir from the palace is a bronze monu-
lent raised to the famous Hetman
*]atof^ who led the Cossacks between
770 and 1816. There is a theatre,
s well as a club-house. The latter
liould be visited for the purpose of
isting the excellent champagne of
le Don.
The anthracite coal-fields of Gru-
lefka are about 30 v. N. of Novo-
lerkask. The coal has been worked
nee 1839, and the quantity now
anually raised is 6 to 7 million
Duds. The area of the coal forma-
on is about 267,000 square fathoms,
he quality of the coal is tolerably
x>d, for it contains 94*96 per cent of
irbon, and is much used by the
steamers in the Black Sea, and also on
the Yolga-Don Railway.
ROUTE 20.
LONDON TO TIFLIS, BY C»NSTANTINOPLE.
— THE CAUCASUS.*
There are two principal routes to
Persia via Tiflis and the Caucasus : —
one by way of Constantinople and the
Black Sea; the other by way of St.
Petersburg and the Volga.
[06«. Those who set out to travel
in the Caucasus should not omit to
provide themselves with everything
requisite in a country where the mo-
dem appliances of civilized life are
almost entirely wanting. The outfit
should include a saddle, a portable
bath, and a small cork bed. The
money which a traveller will find
most useful in Georgia is a supply of
napoleonsy easily exchanged for Rus-
sian money in the towns. A supply
suflBcient for the entire journey should
• The route here described may be Joinpd
from Odessa. There Is a service of the Russinn
8team Navigation Company's steamers between
Odessa and Foti, corresponding with the steamers
of the same Company which run between Ba-
toum and Constantinople.
The route to Persia by way of Trebizond and
Erzeram is not described here, as it does not
pass through any portion of the Russian do-
minions. It is, moreover, not to be recom-
mended, for the Journey trom Trebizond has to
be performed on horseback, with miserable ac-
commodation on the way, and not always in
security.
320
Boute 20.— Poii.
Sect. H.
be taken : and before leaving any
town it is necessary to secure a con-
siderable number of rubles in paper
and small silver coins, wherewith to
pay at each station for post-horses.
The hire of post-horses throughout
the Caucasus is 3 copecks a verst for
each horse ; no charge is made for the
cart, but the drivers expect a small
present of 15 to 25 cop. at eaeh stage.
At the stations travellers will gene-
rally only find a samovar or tea-urn,
and nothing but eggs and black
bread to eat; beef or mutton is for
the most part not to be found. The
utmost which the traveller will obtain
through the Bussian provinces, except
at the towns, is very bad soup, or a
fowl newly killed; vegetables and
fruit are very scarce. But desirable
as it is that more attention were paid
to the provisioning of the stations,
travelling in Georgia has a charm
which fully compensates for the pri-
vations and causes them to be for-
gotten. Every facility is given by
the Eussian authorities to stranger
tourists.' In most parts of the pro-
vinces travelling is perfectly safe;
and wherever it is attended with
danger, as in Gircassia and Daghestan,
no one is allowed to proceed without
the protection of a sufficient guard.
The climate is at all seasons very
pleasant, excepting towards the Per-
sian frontier in the summer months;
and no one need be disappointed witk
a tour in this —
*'beaat7's native clime,
Where Kaff is clad in rocks and crown'd with
snows sublime."]
The route by Constantinople and
the Black Sea, being the most expe-
ditious, is described first : —
[Ofeg. Travellers must select their
own route to Constantinople, which
maybe reached, I. via Marseilles; 2.
via the Danube ; 3. via Trieste ; and
4. via Ancona.]
The steamers of the Bussian Steam
Navigation Company ply between Con-
stantinople and Poti. Travellers change
at Batoum into a steamer which per-
forms the service between that port
and Poti, and which has a less draught
of water to enable it to cross the bar
of the river Bion.
Pen.* A fortified harbour at the
mouth of the river Bion, the ancienV
Phasis, on the Caucasian coast of the
Black Sea. The town is composed of
a collection of wooden houses sur-
rounded by a forest. The principal
drawback to its development is the
bar at the mouth of the Bion, which
prevents most vessels from entering
the river, and where it is very often
so rough as to make aU conununica-
tion between the shore and tiie ship-
ping outside impossible.
The climate of Poti is disagreeable,
and fever prevails during the summer
months. It is nevertheless the port of
Tiflis, from which it is 360 v. (or 240
m.) distant, and a place of growing
importance.
HoteU: "Colchide;" and another,
more recently established, close to the
landing-place of the steamer : — ^both
kept by Frenchmen.
A British Vice-Consul resides at
Poti.
From Poti a small steamer proceeds
up the Bion, twice a week, to ISv^aran,
86 V. or 57 m. distant. There are no
post-horses between Poti and Maran,
but travellers have been able to secure
riding-horses. In summer, when the
road is dry, the distance may be ac-
complished in one day with tiie same
horses ; but in winter, when the mud
IB knee-deep, it is necessary to pass a
night on the road. The way lies
through the famous Mingrelian forest.
The scenery along the Bion is beauti-
ful. To the right are the Lesghian
mountains, and to the left, far away,
are the snow-covered peaks of the
Caucasus. The structure of the houses,
built on piles, would seem to indicate
a very damp and feverish country on
both sides of the river. The Mingre-
lians and Imeritians, who will be met
on Uie road, are probably the hand-
* * A rly. is in oonrae of constraction fr«Hn
Poti to Tiflis. When completed, it will attract
a great number of tourists to the Gancasoa, a
fuller description of which must be reaenred for
a new edition.
Baute 20. — Kutais — Suram.
321
somest race in the world ; and no one
can travel through their country with-
out being struck by the remarkable
beauty of the women.
Maran is a military station and con-
tains about 2000 Inhab. The gar-
rison is composed in great part of
" Scoptsi," a Bussian religious sect of
which the tenets enjoin self-mutilation.
The Caucasus is their place of banish-
ment when discovered. As soldiers
they are said to be very easily ma-
naged. The post-house is the place
of refuge for travellers. Post-horses
may be obtained here for Tiflis, and
thence to Baku or Lenkoran, to the
Persian frontier at Djulfa, or to any
of the chief towns of the Caucasus.
The posting establishment is so exten-
sive as to occasion a considerable loss
to the Grovemment, at whose charge
it is maintained. Travellers with
courier podorqjnaa will get the best
horses. A drive of 4 hrs., at an ordi-
nary speedy will bring the tMiveller to
KuTAis (Pop. 5000), the ancient
Cyta, the principal city of Colchis,
and now the capital of Imeritia. It
was to this place that Jason and his
companions came in the Argo to obtain
the Golden Fleece. The town is de-
lightfully situated among green hills ;
and the Bion, twice crossed by stone
bridges, flows through it. On a MQ
a little above the town are the remains
of a building attributed to the Genoese.
There are two hotels at Kutais; the
proprietor of one is a Hungarian, and
of the other a Russian ; but no comforts
will be found at either of them. It
was to obtain possession of Kutais that
Omar Pasha undertook the campaign
on the eastern coast of the Black Sea
in the autumn of 1855. The late
advance of the Turkish army and the
want of an efficient commissariat made
the expedition abortive.
There are 6 stages between Kutais
and 8uBAM, at &e watershed that
separates the provinces of Imeritia and
Georgia. The first station is agree-
ably situated, and commands a good
view. It contains 2 good-sized rooms.
The road is rough, and the ordinary
vehicles very uncomfortable. Those
who are fond of fine scenery should
make the fifth stage, through the
splendid pass of Suram, in the day-
time. The mountains through which
the road winds are covered with trees
from their summits to the valleys be-
neath. In winter the scenery loses
much of its beauty, but nothing more
picturesque can be imagined than the
pass in the month of October, when
the trees wear a great variety of tints.
Several castles perched upon heights
in front of the pass command extensive
views. An ascent of about an hour
and a half brings the traveller to the
crest of the ridge, where the waters
flow eastward. The same time will
be occupied in descending the pass to
the station of Suram.
There are 6 stations from Sm-am to
Tiflis. The scenery becomes tamer;
hills, more or less wooded, rise to the
rt. and 1. of a bare plain, througn
which a metalled road has not yet
been constructed. In the mountains
near Suram is a watering-place called
Burjan, to which the Imperial Lieu-
tenant of the Caucasus retires in sum-
mer. The river Kur, the ancient
Cyrus, takes its rise in that district.
The town of Gobi is situated upon it 2
stages beyond Suram. Before reach-
ing it, the road crosses to the rt. bank
of the Kur. The town is not, however,
on the direct road to Tiflis. Its high
rock is visible at a great distance.
There are some interesting ruins in
the neighbourhood. The road to
Tiflis follows the river. Bare hills
rise above the valley of the Kur, pre-
senting a complete contrast to the
richly-wooded provinces of Imeritia
and Mingrelia. Beyond Gori the tra-
veller wUl pass MiZKETTRA, the an-
cient residence of the kings of Georgia.
It is now a ruin, still however con-
taining 2 churches of some sanctity,
in one of which the kings of Georgia
were crowned, and where to the pre-
sent day the bishops of Tiflis are con-
secrated. This church is said to have
been erected in the 10th cent., and it
was laid waste by Timiir. The road
from here to Tiflis crosses a bridge,
ascribed by tradition to Pompey. At
a short distance from Tiflis the Kur.
322
Boute 20.—Tifli8,
Sect. II.
ftlong which the road runa, is confined
between high walls of rock in which
are many artificial caverns. By
travelling as courier without inter-
mission, on the second day after quit-
ting Kutais the traveller will reach
TiPLis. Pop. 61,000. The seat of
government of the Caucasus, and the
residence of the Imperial Lieutenant.
Hotels. — Gaucase, opposite the thea-
tre (to be preferred, being kept by a
Frenchman) ; Hotel d'ltalie ; Hotel de
Paris ; and Hotel Deb^ue.
Conveyances, — Excellent phaetons
and drojkies may be hired by the
hour.
History. — Tiflis is supposed to have
existed since the year 469, when the
Georgian monarchs made it their resi-
dence. It derives its name from the
mineral springs which it contains.
What is now called Georgia was an-
ciently known as Iberia, lying between
Colchis and Albania. The capital of
Iberia was Zelissa. Iberia was not
subjected to the Medes and Persians,
and it is first mentioned in Western
history when Pompey penetrated
through it to Albania on the Caspian
Sea. Georgia is bounded on the N.
by the pass of Vladi-Kavkas, anciently
called the Pylsa Caucasx, It formed
part of the Roman empire from the
time of Pompey, and was afterwards
long the theatre of contest between
the Lower Empire and the Persians.
From the 8th centy., or still earlier
according to other records, dates the
rise of the dynasty of the Bagratides.
which flourished till the year 1801,
when Georgia became a Russian pro-
vince. The Bagratides were at that
time the oldest reigning family in
Europe, if not in the world. They
asserted their descent from Kin^
David of Israel. Prince Bagration, so
distinguished in his struggle with
the French, and who fell at Borodino,
was the descendant of the kings of
Georgia. Theraclius, the last king of
Georgia, was forced to quit his capital
on the approach of Aga Mahomed
Khan, the first Kajar ruler of Persia.
At his s death he left his kingdom
under the protection of Russia, and it
was shortly after incorporated with
the Empire.
Topography, &c. — The town, which
is picturesquely situated upon the
banks of the Kur, with a distant
view of Mount Kazbek and the moun-
tain chain of the Caucasus, presents
a mixture of Oriental and European
types. It has a boulevard with ^ops
on either side, and with the principal
public buildings along it. There are a
few other European streets, which are,
however, unpaved, and therefore al-
most always either very dusty or very
muddy. The principal building is a
covered square bazaar, with rows of
shops round it, and with the opera-
house in the centre. The theatre is
a very handsome building when seen
from the inside. The palace of the
Imperial Lieutenant overlooks the
boulevard. The houses of the chief
civil and military authorities, scattered
over the town, are handsomely built.
The chief resort in the afternoon is the
large public garden overlooking the
Kur, oeyond the German colony,
which is on the rt. bank of the river.
The Ktir is crossed within the town
by 2 bridges, the principal of which
was built by Prince Woronzoff, when
Lieutenant of the Caucasus. A statue
of the prince stands at one end of it.
Most of the foreigners resident in
Tiflis are Germans and Frenchmen.
The former, now Russian subjects, are
descended from refugees who quitted
Wurtemberg to enjoy religious liberty.
The German colony is a model of neat-
ness and prosperity. Many of the re-
sident Frenchmen visit the Trans-Cau-
casian provinces every year to pur-
chase silkworms. The variety of cos-
tumes to be seen at Tiflis is very great
and interesting. The Circassian and
Daghestan dresses are more particu-
larly picturesque. The Persian popu-
lation, which is very considerable, is
confined to the lower part of the town,
where whole streets and bazaars are
filled with their houses and shops.
The mineral baths are situated in the
Persian quarter of the town. An ex-
cellent view of the whole city may be
obtained from the Botanical Gardens
above the totf.^^^^^^^^
Eussia.
Bout£ 21.-— Tiflis to Teheran.
823
The dimate of Tiflis is very mild
and pleasant in winter, but in summer
it is intensely hot. It is in fact de-
serted at that season for the watering-
places in the Deighbourhood.
In the neigh^urhood of Tiflis are
the vineyards of Kah^liey which pro-
duce the wine of that name. It is of
2 descriptions, red and white, and is
very much esteemed throughout Trans-
Caucasia. It is not made with a view
to being long preserved, and has
therefore not been much exported,
although travellers will find it at
Moscow and St. Petersburg. As it is
kept in leather bags, it has generally
a slight flavour of leather. It is ex-
ceedingly cheap. Foreign wines, and
indeed all foreign articles, are very
dear in Georgia ; English porter, for
instance, being sold at the rate of 2 rs,
a bottle.
From Tiflis travellers can either
proceed by land via Ararat and Ta-
breez, or take the steamer at Baku or
Lenkoran to Eesht or Astrabad on the
Caspian.
ROUTE 21.
TIFLB TO TEHEBAN, BY ARARAT AND
TABREEZ.
The route generally followed from
Tiflis to Teheran is that by Erivan,
the Aras (A raxes), and Tabreez. The
road to the Persian frontier on the
Aras is sometimes more or less inse-
cure, but travellers are furnished with
a small escort where necessary. Be-
tween Tiflis and Nakhitchevan there
is a post-road with stations, where
horses can be obtained, and travellers
can sleep, on the same terms as be-
tween Maran and Tiflis.
There are 17 stages between Tiflis
and Erivan, which may be reached in
about 3 days. The first portion of
the route lies through a bleak and
treeless district, which presents the
most common features of Persian
landscapes — large plains bounded on
either side by hills. A bridge will be
crossed which marks the point to
which Abbas MirZa advanced in the
last war between Persia and Russia.
The scenery improves at the 8th
stage. Beyond, the road is steep and
bad. After 2 more stages the scenery
assumes an entirely opposite character
from that of the broad dreary plains
previously passed. Wood, streams,
and mountains, with rocks cropping
out, now occur. The pass of Diligen
is equal to any Swiss scenery.
The Gukcheh (or Gotcha) lalce
bursts suddenly upon the view at the
summit of the pass. The lake is of
considerable extent, and produces
large quantities of delicious trout. The
road for some distance follows the
shore of the lake, and one stage ends
upon it. The character of the scenery
for some distance beyond Gukcheh is
still mountainous and wQd, and at the
3rd stage before Erivan the greater and
the lesser Ararat are seen towering
above the surrounding plain. The
last 2 stages into Erivan are exceed-
ingly rough And stony.
Erivan (Pop. 12,000), excepting in
the breadth of its streets, presents the
characteristics of a Persian city. Its
population consists chiefly of Arme-
nians. It is overlooked by a fort which
was the stronghold of the Persian
khans before the province was ceded
to Russia in 1828. By means of the
extensive system of canals here in
use, the plain of Erivan is rendered
very fertile. The view of Mount
Ararat from tlie town is unbroken by
any intervening n^bjects. The convent
q3
324
Boute 21. — NaJchitchevan — Tabreez,
Sect. n.
of Eickmiadzeen, the residence of the
patriarch of the Armenian Church, is
12 m. from the town, the road to it
being parallel to one side of Mount
Ararat, which is distant about 30 m.
from Erivan. The cathedral of Etch-
miadzeen is built chiefly in the Byzan-
tine style, and is surrounded by high
walls. Ainong the monimients to the
dead who repose within its precincts is
a marble slab to the memory of Sir
John Macdonald, envoy to the Shah of
Persia, who died of cholera at Tabreez.
There is an unwillingness on the part
of the monks to show their library.
The next station of importance is
Nakhitchevan (Pop. 6000), a dis-
trict town, reached after 7 stages.
The road from Erivan passes to the
other side of Ararat from that on
which stands the monastery of Etch-
miadzeen. The Nakhitchevan road is
on the E. Behind Mount Ararat and
adjoining it stands the lesser Ararat.
Rising directly from the plain, nothing
can be more striking and majestic than
the solitary Ararat, with two peaks
on the same pedestal. The higher of
the two is covered with snow all the
year round, and presents great diffi-
culties to those who attempt to reach
its summit. The heat at Nakliitchevan
is frequently excessive.
Hence to the Persian frontier on the
Araxes is a drive of 4 hrs. down a
gradual descent. Either power has
a frontier statioii on the river, which
here flows through a scene wild and
desolate to a degree. A strong wind
is almost constantly blowing, so that
tents can with difficulty be pitched,
and are in constant danger of falling.
Travellers put up at the new station-
house.
From the Araxes to Tabreez is a
distance of about 80 m., which is
equally divided into 4 stages. At the
end of the 2nd stage, at tlie town of
Marend, the road joins the highway
from Erzeroum to Tabreez. The day
after leaving Marend the traveller
will arrive at
Tabreez, which covers an immense
mce in the midst of a large plain
flanked by bare hills. It is supposed
to be identical with the ancient Gian-
saca or Gaza, which was the capital
of Atropatena. The modem name of
the province is Azerbij^n. From its
extent and fertility it is the most im-
portant province in Persia, and is
usually committed to the care of the
heir-apparent. Tabreez has undergone
many changes. It was a favourite
residence of Haroun al Baschid,
and it continued to flourish notwith-
standing all it suffered from war and
earthquakes; but it gradually sank
down until within the last 20 years,
when the European trade through
Erzeroum and Trebizond has cau^
it once more to become one of the most
populous and flourishing cities of
Persia. Its Pop. is estimated at between
200,000 and 300,000 souls. It fell into
the hands of the Russians in the course
of their last war with Persia, but was
given up by the treaty of Turkmanchai.
The plain of Tabreez is 4000 feet above
tlie sea, and for 5 months of each year
it is covered with snow. At the dis-
tance of 5 stages from Tabreez is the
town and district of Urumiah, the head-
quarters of an American mission which
labours among the Nestorian Christians
of Persia. There is a road hence to
Bagdad.
There is an English and a Russian
consulate at Tabreez, and a larger
European pop. than in any other town
in Persia.
There is a tolerably good horse-road
from Tabreez to Teheran, the country
for the whole way being bare of trees,
except round an occasional stream or
in the immediate neighbourhood of
villages. The distance to the capital
is a little less than 400 m. ; and when
the road has been in a bad state, tra-
vellers have taken 17 days to perform
the journey. The cotton and castor-
oil plants are cultivated in occasional
patches for the last three-fourths of the
way. Travellers pass the night in
tents, one set of which should be sent
on to the halting-place the night be-
fore, in order to be ready on arrival
after the next day's march, which is
always comm^i|(g^d^ the cool of the
morning. A small tent should like-
EuBsia.
Boute 22. — Bahu.
325
wise be sent on for breakfasting in,
lialf-way to the end of the stage. In
this manner travelling in Persia is not
disagreeable, even at the hottest season
of the year.
ROUTE 22.
TIFLIS TO TEHERAN, BY BAKlT OB LEN-
KOBAK, AND BESHT OB ASTBABAD, ON
THE CASPIAN.
Travellers wishing to embark either
at Baku or Lenkoran must take the
post route to Shemakha, by way of
Klizavetpol.
The roftd from Tiflis to Eliza vetpol,
distant 194 v. (129 m.), is very good.
The Persian name of Eliza vetpol was
Gunja. The posthouse is within the
town, which possesses broad streets
shaded with trees.
There are 12 stages between Eliza-
vetpol and Shemakha. At the 9th
8tage the road enters the mountains
with a very abrupt ascent farther on.
The view from the top extends over an
immense plain behind. The town of
Shemakha wears a melancholy and
deserted aspect. It was the capital
of the province, and contained 70,000
Inhab.; but it was visited by earth-
quake after earthquake, and the scat
of local government was transferred to
Baku on the Caspian. It is, however,
noted for its wine. The ancient name
of Shemakha was Mamechia.
The road from here branches into
two: that to the 1. leading to Baku
112 V. (75 m.) ; that to the rt. to Len-
koran, 243 V. (162 m.) distant.
Between the middle of April and the
middle of October, steamers leave As-
trakhan once a fortnight for Ashurade
island, opposite Astrabad, touching at
Petrofskoe, Derbend, Bakd, Lenkoran,
Astera, Enzelli, and Meshedi-sir. Dur-
ing the other 6 months of the year
the northern portion of the Caspian is
frozen, and the traffic on the water is
confined to the part between Bakii and
Ashurade. In this half of the year
steamers run once a month between
the two latter ports, calling at the in-
termediate points.
Baku is the ancient Gretara, and for
a long time formed part of the do-
minions of the Persian kings. It was
taken by Peter the Great, who sur-
rounded it with its present wall and
ditch. It subsequently again fell
into the hands of the Persians, and
finally became a port of the Russian
empire at the beginning of this
centy. It is now the seat of adminis-
tration of a province. Its harbour is
the best in the Caspian Sea, and it
possesses the advantage of being open
all the year round. It is intended to
construct a rly. from this town to Poti.
The Pop. of Bakii is estimated at
12,000, divided between the fortified
town and the Persian quarter outside.
The peninsula on which the town i.s
placed is bare and sandy, and the fort
is commanded by the adjoining hills.
Baku is celebrated for the ever-burn-
ing fires of naphtha in its neighbour-
hood, which are tended, not as might
be supposed by fire-worshippers from
Persia, but by a succession of devotees
from India. Both the earth and the
water near Baku are strongly im-
pregnated with naphtha, and when
this substance is allowed to burn one
of the strangest possible appearances
is presented to the view. The entrance
to the harbour is lighted from the
Maiden*8 Tower, to which a romantic
BtoTj is attaclied..
The route between Astrabad and
Teheran is more interesting than that
from Enzelli to Teheran. It may be
varied in several ways, but the traveller
326
Boute 23. — Lenkoran to Teheran.
Sect.II.
will always pass through beautiful
mountain and forest scenery, and by
places of historical interest.
For the benefit of those who prefer
the land journey from Lenkoran or
Besht to Teheran, which from the be-
ginning of April to the end of October
is the most economical and least fa-
tiguing (when taken in connection
with the Caspian and Volga route to
Rt. Petersburg), we subjoin a sketch of
the route.
ROUTE 23.
LENKORAN TO TEHERAN, BY LAND, VIA
RESHT.
From Lenkoran, where travellers
with letters of introduction to the
Russian military authorities have been
most hospitably received, the distance
to Astara, on the Persian and Russian
frontier, is 23 v., the road lying all the
way along the sea-shore. The journey
is made on horseback with an escort of
Cossacks. Passports are shown at the
custom-house on the stream wliich
separates Russia from Persia.
Mules can be engaged at Astara for
Resht and Kazvin. The ordinary price
is a keran and a half or two kerans a
day.* The distance to Enzelli is about
92 m., which is made at the rate of
3 or 3^ m. an hour. Wooded hills rise
in constant succession behind and on
* These mnleteers are generally engaged in
travelling between Astiira and Tabreez, by the
mountainous way of Ardcbcel — a journey of
7 days.
either side of wooded valleys. Dozens
of streams of considerable breadth will
have to be passed. The Russian
steamers on the Caspian are supplied
with wood from the forests of Talish,
which will be passed. A great quantity
of charcoal is also prepared in those
forests for the Persian and Russian
markets. The coast gradually rounds
off to the E., forming by its majestic
sweeps a number of splendid bays.
The villages along the coast are
very few and far between. The ac-
commodation in the cottages is very
bad, and provisions are difficult to be
obtained.
Riding for about 10 m. along a neck
of land that separates the lake of En-
zelli from the Caspian, the traveller
will reach Enzelli, a small town en-
joying a mild climate, in which the
orange-tree flourishes. It stands to
the 1. of the narrow passage by which
the lake communicates with the sea,
and which is commanded by a Persian
battery that prevents steamers from
entering the lake.
The lake of Enzelli, about 18 m.
long by 12 in breadth, is crossed in a
boat. There are several marshy islands
on it, where thousands of water-fowl
take refuge. The jungle is tenanted
by tigers and wild boars. The river
of Pir-Bazaar will be entered after a
voyage of about 4 hrs. The boat is
tugged up the stream to the end of
the road to Resht. The 6 miles of
marsh that lie to the N. of that town
have taken 2^ hrs. to accomplish on
horse-back in winter, when the road is
almost impassable even with the small
horses that are expressly trained for
the work.
Resht is the capital of Gilan, one of
the 3 Caspian provinces of Persia", and
was anciently inhabited by the Gelae.
The inhab. speak a language peculiar
to the province, and many of them do
not understand Persian. Resht is at
the present day the centre of a con-
siderable trade. Several European
merchants reside in the town, as well
as the consuls of England, France, and
Russia. The streets, paved with small
stones, are in some instances broad and
Eussia.
Boute 23. — Kazvin,
327
good, and the city is well shaded by
the trees that grow freely within it ;
but as a residence, Resht is feverish
and gloomy. The distance hence to
Teheran is rather less than 200 m.
There are ten post stages between the
two points.
The road to ICazvin follows, at the
end of the 1st stage, the 1. bank of the
Sefid-rhd, a large river that flows into
the Caspian to the E. of Resht, be-
tween high mountains covered with
wood. Amongst the trees are the
mulberry, the walnut, the pomegra-
nate, the fig-tree, and the ash. The
chief timber-tree is the azad, and that
most remarkable for beauty is the silk
acacia-tree.
At Menzil travellers ascend the
northern slope of the Elburz mountains,
at the summit of which a beautiful view
of the vast valleys below will be ob-
tained. From the bleak station-house
at the summit of the pass a journey of
about 27 m. will bring the traveller to
Kazvin.
Kazvin, like many other cities in
Persia, has seen better days. From
this district sprang the Sefavean kings
who made Kazvin their capital. It
was succeeded by Ispahan, but it was
not until the capital had in turn been
transferred to Teheran that Kazvin
dwindled into its present insignificant
condition. It was to Kazvin that the
Emperor Heraclius penetrated before
lie turned off towards Ispahan on his
second expedition into Persia. In the
time of its greatness Kazvin contained
a Fop. of more than 100,000 souls ; but
at present, although the city is the
same in extent as formerly, the Inhab.
<lo not number more than 40,000.
The town stands in a spacious plain,
which, although not watered artifi-
cially, is rich in gardens and culti-
vated land.
In the mountains near Kazvin are
the ruins of the stronghold of the chief
of the Assassins, known also by the
a})pellation of *'the Old Man of the
Mountain." Those miscreants, Ma-
homedan sectaries, were governed for
160 years by a succession of chiefs, to
whom* they paid a complete and
blind devotion. It is said in Marco
Polo's Travels that youths of this sect
were reported as being introduced
into a large garden fitted up as far
as possible with the requirements of.
a Moslem Paradise. They awoke
in the garden after a deep sleep pro-
longed by drugs, and their chief
taught them that they had already
passed the gate of death. They held
the doctrine of the transmigration of
souls, and looked on their chief as the
Vicar of God. His lieutenont governed
the colony of Mount Libanus, so
famous and formidable in the history
of the Crusades. The Assassins of
Persia were exterminated by Holagon
Khan, the grandson of Genghis, and
those of Syria by the Mamelukes.
There are 5 steges, of which the first
2 are short, between Kazvin and Kerij,
a small town or village, where there
is a large palace belonging to the shah.
It is situated on a broad and deep
river, a portion of the water of which
is conveyed by a ctmal to Teheran.
The soil is so porous that only a
seventh part of the water reaches the
city ; the remainder flows down to the
S.E. until it is joined by the river of
Jageriid. Most of the water of these
streams is employed in fertilising the
districts through which they flow.
The Kerij river comes out of a deep
gorge in the mountains a short distance
above the town. It may be traced
with some difficulty up to its source
in the Elburz. It affords good fishing,
the trout found in it being both large
and excellent. There is some shooting
likewise to be had near Kerij, par-
ticularly hares and partridges. Two
stages more will bring the traveller
over a bleak district, having the bare
Elburz mountains on one side and
a low range of hills far away on the
other, to
Teheean, the capital of Persia.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
328
Bouie 24. — London to Persia,
Seci 11.
ROUTE 24.
LOinX)N TO FER8IA, BT WAT OF
ST. PETEBSBDBO.
To St. Petersburg by Rte. 1.
To Moscow by Rte. 6.
To Nijni-Novgorod by Rte. 8.
To Astrakhan by Rte. 9.
Between Astrakiian and Resht, and
Astrabad in Persia, there is' a service of
steamers that touch at Petrofsko^, Der-
bend, Bakii, and Lenkoran, as already
stated. The Ist-class fare from Astra-
khan to Enzelli is 30 rs., not including
the charge for wine and table. All the
charges, however, are very modemte.
The voyage occupies about 5 days.
Travellers who prefer proceeding
through Tiflis leave the Volga at
TsAmTsiN, when they take the Volga-
Don Railway {vide Rte. 18) to Ka-
LATCH, on the Don, from whence
steamers navigate that river, which are
in correspondence with the steamers
upon the Sea of Azof, between Taganrog
and Kertch, and which correspond
again with the Russian Steam Navi-
gation Company's steamers to Poti.
Instead of proceeding from Kertch
to Poti by steamer, travellers can cross
over from Kertch to Taman, and travel
by road from Taman to Tiflis, by way
of Stavropol, Vladikavkaz, and the de-
file of Dariel, thus traversing the chain
of the Caucasus mountains. If this
route is taken it would be worth while
to visit Piatigorsk, celebrated for its
mineral waters, situated between Stav-
ropol and Vladikavkaz.
At Vladikavkaz there is a good
" hotel.
Between Vladikavkaz and Tiflis
good accommodation can be obtained
at the station-houses which have been
recently constructed for the conveni-
ence of travellers.
There is a regular service of omni-
buses between Vladikavkaz and Tiflis.
The scenery of this route is very
fine ; the road for a great part of the
way follows the windings of the Terek
torrent At the station-house of Kaz-
bek a magnificent view is obtained of
Mount Kazbek.
ROUTE 25.
LONDON TO PKKIN, VIA ST. PETERSBURG,
KIAKHTA, AND MONGOLIA.*
{Vide Routes to 8t. Petersburg, Moscow,
Nijni' Novgorod, and Volga,)
[Read Michie*s 'Siberian Route
from Pekin to St. Petersburg/ 1865.]
Many travellers, of both sexes, have
already performed the overland journey
to and from Pekin by way of Kiakhta,
and reported favourably on the facility-
with which it may be accomplislied,
notwithstanding even a complete ignor-
ance of the Russian language. Tbe
summer is to be preferred for tliis
journey, which may be performeil,
tiavelling without intermission, iu
about 50 days from London to Pekin.
From Nijni-Novgorod the traveller
will proceed to Kazan, and thencj,
still by steamer, to Perm, on the riwr
Kama, which wiU be reached in aboir
a week. An hotel has been establishctl
at Perm by a steamboat company, when-
travellers are accommodated at a rea-
• As few, if any, English travellers will vist
Siberia, until some of the Siberian railways, .'«
yet only in contemplation, shall have Ut-i
opened, it is not necessary to give more th^-
a sketch of the routes to Kiakhta. A projx:
description of the route, partly by rail, must U-
reserved for the next edition.
Bussia.
Boute 25. — London to Pehin.
329
sonable rate. A large cannon-foundry, I
employing 1500 workmen, is situated
at about 3 m. from the town. The
scenery on the Kama is of the grandest
description.
From Perm the only mode of travel-
ling is by post. Here the traveller
has to obtain a podorojna, or order for
horses. Three kinds of conveyances
oi-e available ; the telega, or cart with-
out springs, which has to be changed
at every station, and for which a charge
of about 8d, is made at every stage ; the
kibitka, or cart (in winter a sledge)
with a hood ; and the tardntas, a kind
of carriage on wooden springs, which
admits of the traveller lying down full
length, and which can be made very
comfortable at niglit. The two latter
vehicles will have to be purchased or
hired at Perm, if the telega, or postal
conveyance, be not accepted. A ta-
rantas may be bought for 12Z. to 151.
Beyond Perm travellers must be pro-
vided with everything they may require
on the journey in the shape of tea,
coffee, sugar, wine, spirits, preserved
meats, milk, &c. Most luxuries are to
be procured at Irkutsk, but the traveller
wiU do well to bring with him from
England all the more modem appli-
ances for travelling. An English saddle
is of great use, and travellers are re-
commended to purchase a good map at
St. Petersburg. In coming from China
it is of course necessary to lay in a
stock of provisions for a fortnight or 3
weeks.
Ekatermburg, 364 versts from Perm,
is next reached, the road being partly
through the Ural Mountains, whicli
present the most beautiful views. At
the central line of the Ural stands a
marble obelisk, on one side of which is
engraved the word Europe, and on the
other the word Asia. Ekaterinburg is
a town of much importance, as the
centre of the mining districts, and
the seat of ''The Administration of
the Mines." It has 21,000 Inhab.
There is a mint for copper coinage,
also an establishment belonging to the
Crown for cutting and polishing gems,
and a steam factory superintended by
an Englishman. The gold-washings in
the ncighlx)urhood sliould l)e visited.
Travellers will be beset by dealers in
precious stones, which may be pur-
chased very cheap.
After two days' travelling, the town
of Tiumen, 306 versts distant, will be
reached. There is an engineering esta-
blishment here, under the management
of an Englishman. Tug-steamers ply
between Tiumen and Omsk, distant
327 V. by road, but, as they leave at
intervals of a fortnight, the traveller
to whom speed is an object will prefer
the telega or tarantas. The road from
hence to Omsk is generally very bad,
especially in autumn. The only pro-
visions to be obtained are milk and
black bread. It sometimes takes a
week to make this stage. Omsk is
a town of about 18,000 Inhab., with
little to interest a stranger.
Tomsk, the next large town, is 876
V. distant, and may be reached in four
days. The road over the Barabinsk
Steppe is good.
From Tomsk the country becomes
more hilly and picturesque, the birch
being almost entirely succeeded by fir-
trees. As soon as the province of Ye-
nisei is entered, the road will be found
as good and well-kept as any in Eng-
land.
Krasnoyarsk, 554^ v. distant, reached
in 3 days, is a town on the banks of the
Yenisei, pleasantly situated, and shel-
tered by hills of moderate elevation.
Ikkl'tsk, the largest town in Siberia,
and munbering 25,000 Inhab., is 1003
V. farther. Kansk and Nijne-Udinsk
are the only towns on this stage, but
villages occur every 10 or 15 miles.
This highway is much frequented.
Irkutsk is the seat of government of
Eastern Sil)eria. Purchased vehicles
had better be sold here, and the postal
carts made use of.
Three stages beyond Irkutsk is List-
venitchnaya, the place of embarkation
for the lake of Baikal (112 v. wide and
1800 V. long), which is crossed in a
steamer, and from which passengers
are landed in small boats. Fare, 8 rs.
In winter the lake is crossed over tlic
ice.
Two more days' travelling will brins:
the traveller through Verkhne-Udin.sk
and Selenginsk to Kiakhta, the border
330
Boute 25. — London to Pekin,
Sect. n.
town between Bussia and China ; the
whole distance traversed from Nijni-
Novgorod being about 5270 v., or 3513
miles. The charge for horses is 3 co-
pecks per horse per verst to Tinmen,
and 1^ copeck thence io Kiakhta.
The post travels this distance in 27
days.
At Kiakhta the traveller will have
to make his preparations for crossing
the desert of Gobi. He may depend
upon meeting with every protection on
the part of the Russian authorities, pro-
vided he has brought letters of recom-
mendation from St. Petersburg, which
may be obtained through H.M. Em-
bassy. It is also advisable to cause the
Chinese officials at Maimachin, and
other places, to be apprised of the
traveller's intention of proceeding to
l*ekin by way of Mongolia. This
should be done on leaving England,
by a letter addressed to H.M. Lega-
tion in China. The courier service
to Pekin is being much improved and
accelerated, and will be made available
to travellers, who, until now, have
generally been obliged to engage
camels, and to join caravans. Covered
carts are almost the only vehicles to
be obtained. It is customary for
caravans to travel 16 hours a day, and
then to come to a halt for cooking,
eating, and sleeping. There is plenty
of good mutton to be had on the way,
but all other provisions have to be pur-
chased either at Kiakhta or Pekin.
The Mongols are most trustworthy in
their transactions, and the traveller
may feel in perfect safety throughout
the journey. July and August are
very hot months in the desert, and
the beginning of October is already
very cold. The journey between
Kiakhta and Pekin is best performed
in May.
The first part of the journey from
Kiakhta is over a mountainous tract,
and the desert only begins a little be-
yond Urga, the sacred city of the Mon-
gols, with a Pop. of 10,000 to 12,000
lamas. Midway between this and a
small Chinese town, 4 m. off, is a Rus-
sian consulate, where a cordial recep-
tion may be depended upon. There is
very little water beyond Urga, and it
has to be obtained from small wells
some distance off the track, where the
only fuel to be had is dried cow-dung.
The use of money is as yet almost uu- J
known in this part of the country; |
brick-tea, cut up into slices, being the
token of value most recognised ; but
small brass buttons are highly prized.
Caravans take a fortnight to travel
over the bare and slightly undulating
steppe of Gobi, but couriers can per-
form the entire journey between
Kiakhta and Pekin in 12 days, and
even less .
China proper is entered by a pass
in the BLingan mountains, 5400 ft.
above the level of the sea, very pre-
cipitous and rugged. The view is
magnificent.
At Kalgan, a large town through
which the great wall of China runs, the
carts are abandoned for mule-litters.
Two or three days may well be spent
at Kalgan in exploring the monasteries
in the neighbourhood. In coming from
China, camels are engaged at Pekin for
Kiakhta. The customary rate of hire
is from 12 to 15 taels per camel, but
travellers have paid as much as 45 taels
for animals that only realized 3 taels
a-head at Kiakhta. Several Russian ^
mercantile firms are established at
Kalgan, the members of which have
been very kind to European tra-
vellers.
The day after leaving Kalgan tra-
vellers begin to ascend a rugged moun-
tain pass, the town of Sachiog being
reached the next day. Here travellers
sleep at an inn very badly supplied
with comforts. The next night may be
spent at Chatavu, a fort on the inner
or ancient Great Wall of China. This
place is at the foot of a formidable
mountain-range, the pass over which,
17 miles in length, occupies half a day,
and is 20 to 25 miles from Pekin. The
mountain scenery is of the grandest
description, the road passing among
rugged and precipitous crags. The
village of Sha-ho is the next halting-
place, and Pekin may be reached by an
easy stage next day, the road lying ^
through a sandy plain, on which the I
dust rises in clouds; and there this
book must leave the traveller's hands.
KINGDOM OF POLAND.
Digitized by VjOOQLC
Digitized by VjOOQIC
SECTION III.— KINGDOM OF POLAND.
INTEODUCTIOK
PAOE
1. Historical Notice 333
2. Statistics 339
3. Social Condition 339
4. Political Administration .. .. 341
5. Agriculture, Industry, and Com-
merce 4 .. .. 342
PAGE
6. Posting .. 343
7. Language 343
8. Words and Phrases 345
9. Literature 349
10. Measures, Weights, and Coins .. 349
1, — HisTOBicAL Notice.
Fob most English readers the history of Poland begins with Poland's mis-
fortunes. Put aside Sobieski's great victory outside the walls of Vienna,
and few Englishmen caa mention any important events in Polish history
prior to the first partition and the guerilla war waged by the Confederates
of Bar ; the second partition, followed as it was by the insurrection of
Kosciusko ; and the third partition, after which, for twenty years (from
1795 until 1815), the very name of Poland disappeared.
The early history of Poland, however, has been fully treated by a series
of native historians. Dlugosz, or Dlugossius, his Latinised name, or
Longiuus, the Latin equivalent for it, begins his history from the earliest
period of the Polish annals, and carries it down to the year 1480. It is
written in the Latin language, as were all Polish historical and legal works
until the eighteenth century. The first history of Poland in the Polisli
language was not composed until the reign of Stanislas Augustus, when
the independent existence of the countiy was about to cease.
Polish history up to the time of the partition was usually divided into
four periods, buring the first of these Poland was governed by sovereigns
of the House of Lekh ; during the second by sovereigns of the House of
Piast ; during the third by the Jagellon dynasty ; during the foiu'th by
kings of various families.
The first j^eriod has generally been looked upon as altogether fabulous,
and the second as fabulous in a great measure. But Mickiewicz the poet,
and Szainocha and Moraczewski the historians, have done much to restore
the credit of the early Polish legends ; the former dwelling on their
ty]>ical value, and assuming their substantial truth from the thoroughly
Polish character of the incidents, in many of which he sees the incidents
of Poland's modem history prefigured ; the latter reconstructiiig them
after comparing them with the legends of other countries, and criticising
334 l.^Historicd Notice. Sect. HI.
them by the light of ancient German and Scandinavian writers, -who, in
treating the history of their own country, have touched upon that of
Poland.
We may as well dismiss the Lekh period altogether ; or if our readers
wish to know something of the legend of Lekh, Tchekh, and Huss, which
lies at the bottom of all Slavonian history, we may briefly mention that
these three brothers started from somewhere on the Danube, each with the
object of forming an independent establishment, if not of founding a
state ; that three eagles appearing and flying away in different directions,
the omen was accepted, and the Slavonian brothers, like the eagles, parted
company, each to follow his own bird wherever its flight might lead him.
Iluss, of course, went to Russia ; Tchekh to Bohemia, the country of the
Bohemians, or Tchekhs ; Lekh — ^led by a white eagle, which afterwards
became an historical symbol — to Poland, the land of those who accompanied
or dwelt with Lekh. From po-lekh, or po4akh (he was also called Lakh),
the word " polak " is said to be derived. The Russians call the Poles
Pdlahi; and "Polack^was the English name for a Pole in the time of
Shakspeare. In the provinces, too, of ancient Poland, which are inhabited
by a peasantry of Russian or Ruthenian race (Volhynia, Podolia, &c.),
" Lekh " is still the name given to the inhabitants of Poland proper.
Szainocha makes the Lekhs, or Lakhs, come from Scandinavia. Accord-
ing to this historian, the Normans invaded Poland as well as every other
northern country having a sea-coast ; the word lakh is of Gothic origin, and
signifies sociv^^ companion; and the Lakhs, Lekhs, or Lechites, were a
Norman brotherhood, who, establishing themselves in Poland, as the Va-
rangian Normans established themselves in Russia, were the ancestors of
the Polish nobility.
The theory propounded by the learned Szainocha is not much liked by
his fellow-countrymen, who prefer to believe that the Poles, rich and poor,
nobles and peasants, are all of the same stock, and that the noble or eques-
trian order was originally composed of all Poles who were able to serve
their country on horseback ; while those who had neither horses nor arms,
or who for any other reason were unable or unwilling to go to war, re-
mained at home to till the ground, and formed a class of peasantry.
The travellers of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries tell us
that the Polish nobility proclaimed themselves of eastern descent ; and it has
been surmised by Mickiewicz, and others, that the Lekhi, or Leski, came
from the Caucasus, and were of the same family as the Lesghi or Lesghians.
Various origins are assigned to the nobility of Poland ; but whether or
not the country was invaded or colonised by a foreign race at some pre-
historic period, the foreign appears to have been completely absorbed by the
indigenous race long before the date of the earliest Polish records. But the
very name of Poland is of uncertain derivation; for though by most
writers it is traced to Lakh and po-hJch, others make it proceed from pda, a
field or plain. The Poles call the country Pdska, the Russians Fci^, the
Germans PdeUy the French Pdogne (evidently from the Latin name Pod'
nia, given to Poland by the Poles themselves) ; and it is just possible that
the country may have been called " the country of fields or plains," while the
people were known as " the people of Lekh." These are questions which
* .* * Digitized Dyv3v>'V^viv^
Poland* l.^Sistoncal Notice. 835
the Poles themselves are unable to settle, and about which we need not
trouble ourselves further than to note that in England we first became
acquainted with them under the name of " Polacks " long before we knew
them as Poles.
The Polish nobles have always been politically equal. The title of
"noble" was given to every freeholder; and these ** noble" proprietors
were the only inhabitants who were called upon to serve in defence of the
country. The peasants, without being slaves, were " assigned to the soil,"
and had to cultivate the nobleman's fields in return for the land allotted to
them for their own use. The Crown, as in other European states during
the greater part of the middle ages, was nominally elective ; but in practice
the Polish sovereignty may be said to have been hereditary until after the
extinction of the Jagellon line. The ceremony of election took place, but
until the end of the sixteenth century it amounted only to a formal recogni-
tion of the next heir.
A certain attachment to the hereditary principle was shown in the elec-
tion' of the first of the Jagellon s, under whom in the latter part of the
fourteenth century Lithuania and Poland became united under the same
crown. Casimir the Great, who restrained the power of the nobility, and,
by the benefits he conferred upon the peasantry, gained the name of Bex
Busticorumy had been succeeded by his nephew Ladislas King of Hungary,
who, being a foreigner, could only ensure the possession of his throne by
reinstating the nobles in all their privileges. Ladislas was the last sove-
reign of the Piast period ; and as he left no male heir, the nobles exercised
the right accorded to them, or at least specifically renewed, by Ladislas
himself, of choosing his successor. Passing over the eldest daughter Maria,
who was the wife of the too-powerful Emperor Sigismund, they ofiered
the crown to Hedvige, Ladislas's second 'daughter, requiring, however, as
an indispensable condition, that she should marry Ladislas Jagellon, Grand
Duke of Lithuania. With this personal tie the influence of Poland upon
Lithuania began. The political fusion between the two states did not take
place until nearly two centuries later (1569), when the connexion between
Lithuania and Poland became as intimate as that between Scotland and
England after the Act of Union. The accession of Ladislas Jagellon to the
throne of Poland would correspond in our history to that of James VI. of
Scotland to the English throne.
During the Jagellon period the form of the Polish Government became
defined. The power of the King was limited by that of two Chambers, —
the Senate, composed of the superior members of the clergy and the chief
dignitaries of state, and a Chamber of Delegates, in which sat the repre-
sentatives of the nobles or freeholders, and those of the burgesses of
certain privileged towns.
But each sovereign, on ascending the throne, had to make fresh concessions,
and the royal power gradually diminished until, on the death of Sigismund
Augustus, the last of the Jagellons, all title to the crown from hereditary
right was formally abrogated at a general diet, and the most absolute free-
dom of election proclaimed. At the same time a charter of immunities
was drawn up, a ratification of which it was determined to exact from the
next sovereign elected to the throne. By this charter all the privileges
ever conceded by previous sovereigns were renexy^^^QyvConfirmed; audit
336 1.— Historical Notice. Sect. III.
was clearly established that the king was to be chosen by the whole body
of the nobility, gentry, or freeholders ; and that, in case of his infringing
the laws and privileges of the nation, his subjects should be absolved from
their oaths of allegiance.
While Poland thus was strengthened territorially by its union with
Lithuania — the two now forming but one state — ^it was at the same time
weakened politically by the limitations imposed on the central power, and
by the extreme precautions taken for rendering it unstable. Throughout
the Jagellon period the kings, in spite of their election, always styled them-
selves ** heirs " of the kingdom of Poland ; and the rule observed, though
not admitted as a theory, was to look for a successor to the next heir.
After the death of Sigismund Augustus, however, the Polish nobility —
prompted, perhaps, to some extent by jealousy of the powerful magnates
of Lithuania, where until the union with Poland the feudal system was
maintained — insisted on all nobles or freeholders in Lithuania, as in
Poland, being declared on a precise equality, and therefore equally com-
petent to give direct votes at the kingly elections. The nobility of tlie
Lithuano-Polish state, voting in a mass, made a bad beginning. 'J'hey
went to France for their sovereign, and Henry of Valois, afterwards
Henry lU., was elected to the throne, on engaging to pay an annual
pension to the state from the revenues of France. Now, also, the
jiractice of bribing the electors individually — ^unheard of when the right
of choice rested with the diet — was introduced, and helped materially to
jirepare the way for the downfall of Poland. It was not, however, until
about a century afterwards that signs of decay became generally apparent.
At the time of the election of Henry of Valois there was at least religious
toleration in Poland — far more, indeed, than in any other country ; and
the necessity of recognising the principle of religious liberty was specially
impressed upon the new monarch, whose brother, it was not forgotten, had
directed the massacre of St. Bartholomew's day.
But with the entrance of the Jesuits into Poland came intolerance; and
one of the reasons which led the Cossacks of the Ukraine, in the middle of
the seventeenth century, to solicit Russian protection, was the inferior posi-
tion in which their Greek religion was placed as compared with that of
Koman Catholic subjects. Poland and Muscovy had waged war for two
centuries with varied success, when in the reign of Alexis Mikhailovitch,
Peter the Great's father, the whole of the Polish territory east of the
Dnieper — ^now known as Little Russia — passed under the protection of
the Tsar, and after the insurrection of Mazeppa, in the reign of Peter, was
finally incorporated with the Russian empire. With Little Russia the city
of Kief, on the Polish side of the Dnieper, became lost to Poland. Sobieski,
who saved Vienna for the Austrians, could not keep Kief for the Poles. This
sacred city, from which the Russians received their faith before either Poland
or Russia had become regularly organised states, was now looked upon as
the religious metropolis of the numerous Polish subjects belonging to the
Eastern Church; and when the first partition of Poland took place, in
1772, the portion wliich fell to Russia contained numbers of inhabitants
who were already connected with that country by religious ties.
On the misfortunes of Poland during the partitions it is not our intention
to dwell. As to the distribution of territory, it was observed at the time
Digitized Dy y^JKJKJWlK.
Poland. 1. — Historical Notice. 337
that the most extensive portion went to Eiissia, the most populous to Austria,
and the most commercial to Prussia.
Prussian Poland, after the third partition (1795), extended beyond the
Vistula, and included Warsaw. The ancient Polish capital was placed
under a Prussian administration, and vain endeavours were made to Ger-
manise it. After the battles of Eylau and Friedland (1806), the Poles
having risen against their German masters, and a French army having
entered Warsaw, Prussian Poland became nominally free ; and though under
Fi^ench influence, and required to furnish troops to the French army, it was
at least governed constitutionally, and through a Polish administration.
This new Polish state (formed entirely out of the provinces seized by
Prussia at the three partitions) was called the Duchy of Warsaw. The
King of Saxony was the sovereign ; and the governing power was vested
in the Sovereign and two Chambers, — a Senate and a House of Represen-
tatives.
At the great settlement of 1815 the Emperor Alexander proposed to form
the whole of ancient Poland into a constitutional monarchy under the
Russian crown; but it was ultimately arranged that Galicia (which in
1809 bad been annexed to the Duchy of Warsaw) should be given back
to Austria, Posen to Prussia, and that the rest of the Napoleonic duchy
should be formed into a constitutional state with the Russian Emperor as
King. The provinces acquired by Catherine II. at the partition of the
eighteenth century remained incorporated with the Russian empire, but
were not subjected to a Russian administration until after the insuiTection
of 1830.
The little kingdom of Poland of the present day, with its five million of
inhabitants, was governed from 1815 to 1830 in accordance with the ar-
mngements of 1815, having its Diet, its national administration, and its
national army of thirty thousand men. After the insurrection of 1830 the
constitution was withdrawn, the national army abolished, the national lan-
guage proscribed in the public offices, and the administration, as far as
possible, Russianised ; Poles, however, being still appointed to the minor
offices. The Polish universities were closed.
After the accession of the Emperor Alexander I. several reforms were in-
troduced into Poland, and Polish was re-established as the language of the
administration and of public instruction. Demonstrations, however, in
favour of national independence were commenced ; and for two years before
the last insurrection broke out Warsaw Avas the scene of constant agitation.
In the mean while several concessions were made by the government. The
administration was completely separated from that of Russia ; elective dis-
trict and municipal councils and a council of state were formed. The
re-opening of the universities and of additional gymnasiums, and the esta-
blishment of schools for the peasantry, preceded the arrival of the Grand
Duke Constantino in Warsaw, accompanied by the Marquis Wielopolski,
as chief of the civil administration. From the Marquis Wielopolski down-
wards every official in Poland was now a Pole ; but the administrative and
other reforms had little eifect in quelling the excitement ; and in January,
1863, another insurrection broke out in Warsaw, the lamentable effects of
which will long be felt.
The Polish language has now been entirely superseded by Russian in all
Digitized Dyvjv^'v^viv^
338 1.— Historical Notice. Sect HI.
educational establisbments, as well as in all public offices ; and all official
correspondence even witb the Voits, must be in Russian.
The Code Napol6on is to be superseded by the Russian Code with some
modifications.
The insurrection which broke out in 1863 had long been meditated by
the " red," or extreme party, while the ** white," or moderate party, were
opposed to it as »inexpedient and irapmdent. The rising was precipitated
by an arbitrary conscription, or proscription, by means of which it was pro-
posed to carry off somQ thousands of the more violently disaffected, for the
purpose of enrolling them in the Russian army.
For a time the landed proprietors, arid the moderate party generally, held
aloof from the movement. Gradually, however, it extended ; and when it
was known that the Western Powers were about to address representations
to Russia on behalf of the Poles, all classes in Poland, with the exception
of the uneducated, indifferent peasantry, united for the purpose of main-
taining the insurrection. On the 10th of March, at the solicitation of the
" white '* party and " red " party combined, Gen. Langiewicz, formerly an
officer in the Prussian army, proclaimed himself dictator ; but his dictator-
ship lasted scarcely a fortnight. Having crossed the frontier of Poland to
enter Galicia (with the view, it is believed, of re-entering Poland at another
point), he was arrested by the Austrians, and thrown into a fortress, where
he was detained until long after the termination of the insurrection. After
the fall of Langiewicz the insurrection assumed a guerilla character, and do
more large detachments were formed. A number of bands, of from 100
to 1000 men, appeared in Poland and Lithuania. There was also a partial
rising (soon put down) in Volhynia. The struggle, hoi^eless from the
moment it was seen that no foreign power had any intention of assisting
the Poles, lasted, nevertheless, until the spring of 1864, when the Austrians
placed Galicia in a state of siege, and proceeded to deliver up to the
Russians all insurgents who sought refuge on their territory. The last
important body of insurgents was under the orders of General Bossak (the
pseudonym adopted by Count Hauke, formerly a colonel in the Russian
army), who, from his head-quarters in the mountains near Cracow, com-
manded three detachments, numbering altogether some 2000 men. After
having maintained his position for six months, "Bossak" broke up his
force, and retired to Galicia, whence he afterwards made his way to Switzer-
land.
After Langiewicz and "Bossak" the principal leaders in this insurrec-
tion were Frankowski, a student (wounded, taken prisoner, and executed);
Padlewski, formerly an officer in the Russian army (wounded, taken
prisoner, and executed); Jezioranski, formerly an officer in the Prussian
army (still, living); Lelewel, a mechanical engineer from Warsaw (killed
in action); Narbutt, a Lithuanian proprietor, formerly in the Russian
army (killed in action); Sierakowski, formerly an officer in the Russian
army (mortally wounded in action, and hanged by Mouravieflf when
on the point of death) ; Cieszkowski, chief of a band near Maloji^oszcza,
wounded in action, but killed in bed next day ; " Kruk," formerly an
officer in the Russian army (still living) ; Taczanowski, formerly an omcer
in the Prussian army (still living) ; and the Abbd Mackiewicz (taken
prisoner and hanged).
* o • uigitized Dy vji^^v>»viv^
Poland. 2.— Statistics. B.— Social Condition, 339
2. — Statistics.
The Kingdom of Poland, as constituted by the Congress of Vienna, com-
prises an extent of 2320 ge(^raphical square miles. In 1861 the population
amounted to 4,910,608 souls, consisting of 2,375,312 men and 2,535,296
women, which in 1863 had increased to 4,986,230 souls.
Classified according to religion the population in 1856 was composed of —
Roman Catholics 3,767,977
UDiat€s 219,655
Protestants 289,583
Moravian Brethren 2,000
Menonites .. .. 1,399
Russo-Gi-eek Chorch .. 5,100
Odinovei-tsi, a sect of the Russian Ghnrch 551
Staroveri, Russian Sectaries, who emigrated into Poland in the
13th century, at the time of the religious pei-secutions in Russia,
and formed separate colonies .. .. r. .. .. .. .. 3,937
Jews 617,891
Mahometans 307
Gijisies .. .. 188
The nationalities of which the population of the kingdom of Poland is
composed are officially grouped as follows : —
Poles 3,420,000
Ruthenians (in the province of Lublin). This race also pre-
dominates in all the southern provinces of Russia as well as in
the eastern part of Galicia in Austria 215,000
Russians ' .. 9,000
Lithuanians (in the province of Augustovo). Thej also pre-
dominate in the provinces of Kowno, WUna, and Courlaud . . 220,000
Geimans, pai-tly established in towns, and partly in agricultural
colonies scattered over the whole country 300,000
Jews, exclusively inhabiting towns # 600,000
The inhabitants of the 22,613 villages of the kingdom (grouped
in 3083 rural communes) amount to 3,690,967
The inhabitants of the 453 towns number .. .. .. .. ..1,219,641
3.— Social Condition.
When Poland was independent the law divided the population of the country
into three classes — ^the nobles, the citizens, and the rustics. The clergy,
although enjoying all the immunities secured to them by the canon law, did
not constitute a separate class. The Jews did not belong to any of the classes
recognized by the law, but had special rights and obligations. They were
only assimilated to the other classes, with some restrictions, in 1861, when
the country enjoyed a certain amount of political freedom. Under the old
Republic, the nobility exclusively possessed political rights; ihey, alone
Biwwa.— 1868. ^ 9 ^^^ ^y ^^^^i«
340 3,— Social Gandition. Sect. IIL
participated in the elections to the Diets ; and they alone could hold landed
proi)erty or public offices. The citizens could only hold real property in
towns. They enjoyed the municipal franchises granted to each town by its
Charter of Election. The rustics were adscripti glebce to the extent that
the rural communes were obliged to occupy all the peasant farms, and that the
peasant could not leave his lord until all such farms were occupied. But they
also possessed the right of occupying any farms that were vacant. Strictly
speaking, serfdom did not exist ; but there was a kind of personal depend^
ence, aggravated by the extensive privileges of the nobles, and by the
impotence of the government. In lieu of rent the peasant holders of farms
worked for their landlords a certain number of days in the week, determined
by law. A tendency to exchange that labour for a money payment which
had begun to manifest itself was interrupted by the partition of Poland.
After that event the social condition of the country was modified according
to the institutions that existed in the countries which shared Poland. The
condition of the peaaants became more oppressive ; the nobility lost almost
all their political rights, and the towns their municipal autonomy. All
serfege was however abolished in 1807, when the Duchy of Warsaw was
constituted. The right of holding landed property and government offices
was bestowed on all classes of society alike, with the exception of the Jews ;
the nobles only retaining the right of appointing a certain number of the
members of the Chamber of Deputies. But as a necessary consequence of
the liberation of the peasant from all attachment to the glebe, the landed
proprietors claimed, without any sanction of the law, the entire possession
of all the lands formerly held by the adscripti glebce. The relations
between the peasants and the proprietors became free ; that is to say,
that the holding of farms, and the amount and the mode of the rent,
were left to amicable adjustment. With a few exceptions old relations were
continued voluntarily and by mutual agreement The peaaants retained
possession of their farms, which then numbered 240,000 ; and continued
to work in the fields of their landlords the number of days previously
agreed upon. These liabilities in labour were gradually converted into
money payments. It was only in 1846 that the law interposed to prevent
any change in existing relations. The proprietors could no longer either
take back the farms from the peasants or raise their l"ents ; while the
peasants retained the right of leaving their holdings. Since, by that
measure, the land question could no longer be settled gradually at the
convenience of the parties interested, and with their free consent, the
necessity of regulating it in a definitive manner by law became eviden^ and
gave rise in 1859 and 1861 to a series of ukazes, of which the provisions
could only have been applied slowly. An insurrection broke out in
1863. In order to interest the peasants in the movement, its chiefs
promised them the gratuitous freehold of the lands they occupied, and
proposed to indemnify the proprietors at the expense of the govern-
ment which they desired to restore. In 1864 the Russian Government
seized the same weapon in order to suppress the insurrection. All the
property held by the peasants was gratuitously bestowed upon them, and
even servants became proprietors of the dwellings which they occupied.
According to this new settlement, the intersection of fields by the property
of others was perpetuated, as well as the labour in the fields and forests of
uigitized Dy \^kjkjs/i\^
Poland. 4. — Political Adminiairation. 341
the landlord owed by the rural communes. The Government promised to
indemnify, to a certain extent, the landed proprietors who had been deprived
*of a considerable part of their fortunes. The last settlement reintroduced
a class of peasants distinct from that of the citizens and nobles— a dis-
tinction that has not existed since 1807. The citizens have long since
lost their most precious franchise, that of municipal self-government. The
mayors are appointed by the Crown, and it is only a few towns that
have elective municipal councils since 1861. The nobles have only retained
certain privileges with regard to military service, and the substitution, in
criminal matters, of exile to Siberia, where corporal punishment would be
otherwise inflicted.
4. — ^Political Administbatiok.
The kingdom of Poland is governed by a Namiestnik, or Lieutenant of
the Emperor, who is at the same time ex-officio Commander of the Forces
in Poland ; the attributes and powers of the ** Namiestnikate " are, however,
very different from those possessed by Prince Paskiewitch, and it is highly
probable that in the course of time the post itself will be abolished.
The Government of Poland may be said to be in a transition state : all the
so-called autonomic institutions of the country have been swept away, aud
every department has been placed during the last two years under the
corresponding oflOices, or bodily merged in the Departments at St Petersburg,
while every Pole either has been, or will be, dismissed from Government
employment, unless prepared to embrace the Greek faith.
Since tiie late insurrection a " Committee of Eeorganization" has been
in existence at Warsaw, which began with the questions involved by the
changes in the condition of the peasants, and has gradually usurped a
considerable part in the direction of the government of the countiy. The
Namiestnik is President of this committee, but his position when in the
committee is scarcely more than '* primus inter pares,'' and all questioas
and measures are subsequently submitted to the Section or Committee for
Polish Affairs at St. Petersburg.
The whole policy of the Government is bent on extinguishing all
remembrance of a separate nationality in Pqjand^ and it will speedily be
reduced to precisely the same state, as regards laws, government, and in-
stitutions, as any other Russian province.
Poland is divided into ten Governments, each provided in miniature
with the complete machinery of Government : the Governors report direct
to St. Petersburg, and select their own ofBcials, but they owe a distinct
allegiance to the Namiestnik, who exercises a supervision over the whole
kingdom, and is responsible for everything which takes place.
The seats of the ten Governments are Warsaw, Kaliscb, Pietrokow,
Radom, Kieloe, Lublin, Siedlce, Plozk, Lomza, and Suwalki.
The rural communes are administrated by Mayors, called Voit. Until
the year 1864 the Government was bound to appoint these functionaries
from amongst the landed proprietors of the commune. Since then,
however, they have been elected by the peasants by universal suffrage.
n 2
342 6. — Agriculture, Industry, and Commerce, Sect, IIL
The landed proprietors and the priests have not the right of voting at
such elections. All the towns are governed by Burgomasters appointed by
tlie Government. The most important towns enjoy the privilege of having
elective municipal councils, which assist the Burgomasters in the discharge
of their duties. This system has been applied up to the present time to 16
towns out of 453. Justice is administered in the towns by the Burgo-
masters, and in the villages by the Magistrates ( Voit gmini), assisted by
rural tribunals composed of peasants. The inferior courts thus constituted
can sentence to eight days' imprisonment, and deliver final verdicts in civil
suits to the extent of 50 rubles. The higher Judicial Instances are 80
Judges of the Peace, and as many Tribunals of Correctional Police, 9 Civil
Tribunals, 1 Commercial Tribunal, 17 Criminal Courts, and a Court of
Appeal, which takes cognizance of civil, commercial, and criminal matters.
There are moreover 2 de^mrtments of the Senate, forming part of the Senate
of the Empire ; of which one acts, as a final Court of Appeal in civil suits,
the other in criminal cases. The proceedings in all these courts are public
and oi-al. A commission has been appointed .vyith the object of reforming
the organisation and mode of procedure of the|^ courts.
There are in addition various commissions sitting for the investigation of
]iolitical offences, whose sittings, acts, and even existence, may be said to be
almost secret.
6. — Agbicultubb, Industby, and Commeece.
Agriculture is pursued in the kingdom of Poland on more than 25,000
large farms, of the extent of 200 to 1500 acres, belonging to nearly 8000 landed
proprietors, and on more than 240,000 peasant farms, seldom exceeding 40
acres of land. The peasants produce almost nothing for exportation.
J^arge proprietors generally work their own farms, and very rarely let them.
The rent of a farm seldom exceeds 10 shillings per acre. Many Englishmen
have realized considerable sums of money by farming, although they all
commenced with veiy small capitals. Wheat and wool are principally
produced for exportation. Large crops of potatoes are raised for the, dis-
tillation of spirits, as well as beet-root for the manufacture of sugar. Clover
grows in perfection. Wood fpr building purposes is also a great item of
exportation; The fir-tree (jpinus silvestris) and the oak (quercus rohur) are
of very superior quality.
The manufacture of spirits from potatoes and grain is most widely
pursued. There are more than 2000 distilleries of brandy. The excise
duties which they pay amount to more than 100 per cent, of the value
of the produce. The branches of industry next in imi)ortance are
brewing, the manufacture of sugar from beet-root, cotton-spinnuog, calico-
printing, cloth-weaving, and the manufacture of iron and zinc Most of the
iron and zinc mines and works belong to the Government. They are
chiefly situated in the province of Radom, and some on the frontier of
Silesia. Others again, between Radom and Kieltse, produce iron, which
is smelted with charcoal, and which is not inferior to the best iron from
blbena* uigitizeciDyvjiv.'v^viv^
Poland. 6. — Posting. 7. — Language. 343
The state of ^iculture nnl of industry indicates the principal articles of
trade. The custom-houses of the kingdom of Poland are united with
those of the empire of Russia. The trade between the two countries is free,
excepting in the items of spirits, salt, and tobacco, which are monopolized,
and burdened with heavy excise duties. Trade is promoted by the State Ba n k
of Poland, a deposit, loan, discount, and emission Bank. A Land Securities
Company^ (Cr«itY Fonder), based on the mutual guarantee of the landed
proprietors, emitting bonds bearing 4 per cent, interest in specie, guaranteed
by the Government, facilitates the transfer of property by the liquidation
of mortgages. The law of mortgage is extremely well regulated in Poland.
A State Insurance OflSce against fire and against epidemics among cattle,
as well as for the insurance of life, renders very important services to
the country. There is an Exchange at Warsaw with sworn brokers,
where a considerable business is done in drafts on Odessa. There is
also a Tribunal of Commerce. The commercial law of the kingdom, and
the judicial procedure in matters of commerce, are exactly the same as in
France. The commercial interests of foreign States are protected by Con-
suls General and Consuls resident at Warsaw,
6. — Posting.
The high roads are not numerous. Their entire length in 1860 amounted
to 4000 versts. They are becoming more numerous since their construction
has been confided to committees chosen from among the inhabitants of
the districts interested in them. The most important highways are losing
their importance, being supplanted by railways. Uncomfortable coaches
rim from Warsaw by way of Radom to Kieltse ; from Warsaw by way
of Lublin to Zamoscz ; from Warsaw by Brest-Li tevski to Moscow ; from
Warsaw by Pultusk to Suvalki ; from Warsaw to the fortress of Novogeor-
gievsk or Modlin ; Mid from Brest-Litefski to Kief. On the post-roads
where coaches do not yet run, abritshka or open cart without springs is used
by travellers. Post-horses are to be obtained for private carriages or for post-
carriages. No Padorqfna is required as in Russia, but it is necessary to pro-
duce a passport. Post-horses cost five copecks per horse per verst. The charge
for an open [X)st-carriage without springs is one copeck per verst. The coach-
man receives drink-money at the rate of one copeck per verst for each horse.
In short, travellers who leave the lines of railway, and are unprovided with a
good carriage, will meet with very little comfort ; nor will any good inns
or places of refreshment be found, even in the small country towns, r
7. — Languaqe,
The Polish language belongs to the north-west group of the Slavic
division of Indo-European tongues. Its principal dialects, though not
materially differing from each other, are those of Masovia, Little i?oland
and Galicia, Lithuania, and Great Poland, besides the more degenerate
Silesian. llie alphabet consists of the following letovf kyj^Kjwi^
344 7.-^LangtMge. SectlO.
a (short Italian a).
a (French on)«
»}h«d.
b, b'(8ofl like English 6y, both conionantl A (Fr. gn),
e (tz) 6 {tch, veiy loft, cz {tch), ch o (short It,), 6 (compressed, approaching
(kh. Ger. ch). u).
d (short Italian). p, p (soft like py, both consonant).
e (short Italian, 6 (compressed aa in yes) r, rz (Fr. rj in one).
g (Fr, in), s, s' (sA very soft), sz (sA),
g } hai-d. ^ J (short Ital.).
. > short Italian.
(»).
X
j (2/ consonant). y (resembling the Ger, v).
k (hard). z, a (Frj), z (Fr. j, very soft).
+ (very hard), I (It. ^ff).
I serves to soften various consonants, replacing the ' : dr6b\ little poultry,
gen. drohiu ; iyc, to live, zycie^ life; ko/i, horse, gen. honia; wies', village,
gen. wsi. The accent, except in foreign words and in compounds, is
constantly on the penultimate: rodak, countryman, gen. rodaka^ dat,
rodakowi. As in Latin, there is no article : cnotay virtue, a virtue, the
virtue. There are seven cases of declension, nominative, genitive, dative,
accusative, vocative, instrumental (wtcczew, by or with the sword), and
locative (after certain prepositions, as w Bogu, in God). The forms of
iicclension depend upon the termination, the geuder, and the kind, words
of the same termination denoting persons, animals, and lifeless objects
having in the masculine several different forms. The gender of nouns is
mostly determined by the termination. There are three genders for nouns,
adjectives, pronouns, verbs, and participles. The comparative degree is
formed by the syllable szy (nom. mas. sing.), the superlative by naj and
8zy, The verb is exceedingly rich in forms, serving to express frequency,
intensity, inception, duration, and other modes of action or being. The
fomiatives consist chiefly of prepositions and other particles, as in German.
Diminutives, denominatives, and other derivatives are abundant. Com-
pounds are mre. The words of a sentence can be arranged almost as freely
as in Latin, misunderstanding being precluded by the distinctness of the
formative terminations. In flexibility, richness, power, and harmony, the
Polish is hardly excelled by any other language of Europe ; its grammatical
structure is fully developed and firmly established ; its orthography precise
and perfect. The principal grammars are by Kopczynski, Mrongovius,
Bandtke, and Muczkowski (Cracow, 1845) ; the principal dictionaries by
Linde and Trojanski (Posen, 1835-46).
Digitized by VjOOQIC
Poland,
8. — Words and Phrases.
845
8, — ^WOBDS AND PhBABES.
The emperop
Ts^^h*
A courtyard
/ Dzyedzinyiets,
\ PodviizU.
The empress
Ts^sazhova,
The crown prince
Tsdsazhevitch.
A villa
Villa.
A gifuid duke
Vielki KsUmzhi,
A room
Pokid.
A prince
Ksionzhl
A chemist's
Apteka.
A count
ffrabta.
A parade-ground
Plats-paradni,
A noble
ShlakhtsiU.
A barrack
Shalass,
The lord
Pim.
A fort
Fortetsa,
Sir or Mr.
Pan.
Abridge
Most.
The head of a village Sultis.
A river
Zheka.
An employ^
Uzhendnik.
A village
Vyesi.
A peasant
f Vlostaicmin,
1 Khllop.
A road
Droga.
A hill
Cfitra.
A policeman
PoKtsicmt.
The bath-house
Laznia,
A blacksmith
Kox)(d.
A post station
Statsya potchtowa.
A drojky
Dorozhka,
The great bazaar
OluorU rinek.
A coachman
A postilion
Stangret,
Potchtilion,
The Exchange Guielda,
English Ambassador Possel Angyekki,
A waiter
Pzhevodnik,
English Consul
Konsul Angyelaki,
A porter Tswiss)
„ (can-ier)
Shvc&tsar,
To write
Pissatsi,
Tragazh.
Paper
Papy^r.
„ (house)
Striizh,
Ink
Atmment,
A water-carrier
Vodovoz.
Pen
Piuro.
A foreigner
Tsudzoziemiets,
PencU
Oluvek.
Chief city
StoUtsa.
To eat
Testsi.
A town
Miasto.
To drink
Pitsu
A street
Ulitaa.
To br^fast
TesUi myadanie.
A cross-street
Ulitchka,
Breakfast
Snyadame.
A square
Plats,
To dine
Testsi obyad.
A market
Pinek.
Dinner
Obyad,
A row of shops
Zhondsklepikuf,
To sup
Yestsi kolatsyon.
A shop
Sklepik,
Supper
Kolatsya.
A quay
NadbzhezU.
A portion
Porisia,
A gateway
Brama,
Soup
Zupa.
Outer door
Vkhud.
An ice
Lodi.
An island
Vispa.
A roast
Pyetchenia,
A gai^en
Ogrud.
Beef
Volovina,
Afield
PoU.
Veal
Tsyelentsina.
A cathedra
Katidra,
Mutton
Baranina,
A church
Kostsiidl.
Cutlets
Kotleti.
A belfry
Dzvonnitsa,
Beefsteak
Bifahtik.
A cemetery
Tmentazh.
Fish
Eiba.
A monastery
Kla&hton
Ham
Shinka.
A palace
Palats.
A fowl
Kura.
An hotel
Hotel, zdtazd.
A chicken
Kurtche,
A restaurant
• Restauratsia.
Ahare
Zdyonts,
A partridge
Kuropatva,
A house
Dom,
Hazel grouse
Tazkonbek.
* The wonls are written here as they should be pronomioed. not as they are spelt. The same
sounds have been given to the letters as in the Russian vocabulaiy.
uigitized Dy \^kjkjsii\^
346
S.— Words and Phrases.
Sect III.
Blackcock
Tsyetzhev,
A hat
Kapehtsh,
Capercailzie
Glushets.
A fur cloak
Sfwba.
Potatoes
Kartofel
A pair of boots
Butt,
Peas
Qrokh,
A bath
Kompyel,
Cucumbers
Ogurki,
A washhand-basin
Myednitsa,
Pears
Grushki.
A towel
Rentshnek.
Apples
Tablka,
Soap
Mydlo,
Nuts
Orzhekhi.
A dressing-gown
Schlafrbck,
White bread
Bulka.
A boat
Ludka,
Black bread
KMa.
A carriage
Kareta,
Pancakffl
Blmy.
Acai-t
Bfitchka,
Cheese
Syr.
Awheel
Koto.
Butter
Mash.
The pole
DysheL
Eggs
Taya.
The wooden ai-ch
Duga,
Cream
Smyetanka,
A cord
Povruz,
Milk
Mleko.
A hoi-se
Koni,
Wine
Vino,
Horses
Konye,
Com brandy
Vudka,
Hay
Syano,
Beer
Pwo,
Straw
Sloma,
Coffee
Kava»
A book
Ksyonzhka,
Tea
Herbata.
A snow-stoiin
Zavi/erukha,
Sugar
Tsukyer.
Ice
Lud.
Water
Vodh.
Half
Pul, polova.
A glass of water
Shklanka tody.
A quarter
Chetvierti,
Hot water
Gorontsa voda.
Gj-eat
Duzhi,
Cold water
Zimna voda.
Little
Mali,
Salt
Sul,
BpAnfifiil
' Pyenkni (fem.
Pyenkna,
Pepper
Piepzh.
IJVU UUl U 1
A'^inegar
Otset,
Old
Stari (fern, ra).
Mustard
Musktarda,
New
Novi (fem. va).
A trunk
Kuffer,
Yes
Tak, tak yesU
Portmanteau
Tiomok,
No
Nye.
Ti-avelling-bag
Vorek podruzhni.
Good, very well
Dobzhtr,
Box or case
Paka,
Not good, not well
Zly€,
A tea-uiTi
Samovar,
Bring
Pzhenyes,
A tea-pot
Herhatnitchka,
For
Dla.
A pail
Vyadro,
More
Vyentsei,
A bottle
Bvtma,
Less
Mniyel
A glass
Shklanka,
That
To.
A cup
FUizhanka,
Enough
Dosits.
A wine-glass
Ky€lishek,
Not enough
Nye dosfis.
A plate
Talezh.
Too long
Za dlugo.
A knife
Nuzh,
Give
Dai,
A fork
Videlets,
Give me
Dai mi.
A spoon
lAzhka,
Give us
Dai nam.
A table
Stul,
Now
Teraz.
Abed
Postsyel
It cannot be done
Nye mozhna.
A stove
Pyets,
Do better
ZrvbUpyH.
Fire-
Ogien,
Father
OUsyets,
A light (candle)
Sviyetsa,
Mother
Matka,
A napkin
Serveta,
Brother
Brat,
A duster
Stsyerka,
Sister
Syostra,
xr^ T
Digitized by VjOOQIC
Poland.
8. — Words and Phrases,
347
DULOGUES.
Good day.
Good night.
Good bye.
If you please.
Thank you.
Here.
Who is there?
Come here.
Hallo I here.
I come directly.
I hear and obey.
Directly.
Let us go (on foot).
Let us go (in a carriage).
Goon.
Drive gently.
Never mindj or nothing.
Hurry quick.
Drive faster.
Have a care.
Give rooih, give place. .
To the right.
To the left.
Go further on.
Drive home.
Stop.
Tell me.
What is it?
How do they call it ?
What does it cost?
How much the arshin ?
How much the pound ?
It is dear.
It is much.
It is cheap.
Can you give change ?
I don't know. .
Not wanted.
I won't have.
Is it ready ?
Set the tea-um.
Give us a spoon.
What's to be done?
W^hat's o'clock ?
In how mimy hours ?
Is it possible ?
Where is the inn ?
How many versts ?
Where is the landloi-d ?
I will pass the night here..
When do you start ?
To-day,
Dzyeni dobri,
D(^a note.
Zhegnam»
ProsheUy yesli laska,
J)zyenkuyen,
Davdi!
Ktotamf
Pwdz tit.
Khe! slukhax!
Zaraz pzhylden.
Slukham,
Zaraz,
Pudzyemi.
Poyedzyem,
Idz pretch.
Volno,
To nits,
Prendzei.
Yedzprendzu
Ostrozhnye,
Zdrogi,
Napravo,
Na levo.
Yedz daki.
Do domu,
Stia.
Proshen mi poviedzyets,
Tsd to yest f
Yak to syen naziva ?
Tsdtokoshtuyef
Po tchemu arshin ?
Po tchemitfunt9
To drogo.
To duzho.
To tanyo,
Tchi mojzhe dats resliten ?
Nye mem.
Nyepotzheha.
Nye khtsen,
Tchi gotov f
Podai proshen samovar,
Podal proshen lyzhken,
Tso teraz rohits ?
Ktura godzina ?
Za He godzini
Tchi to bits mozhe ?
Gdzye traktyemya f
Vyele vyorst ?
Gdzye gospodazh — gdzye pan 9
Ya khtsen tutdi pjzhenotsovats,
Kyedi Pan veyedzyei •
Dzis.
yGOOg^
J
848
8. — Words and Phrases.
Sectin,
To-morrow.
In on hoar.
It is time to be off.
Wliich i« the way to — ?
Piny show me the way.
What kind pfa road is it?
Are the hoi-ses to ?
What is it to pay for them ?
Drink money.
I will give you drink money.
I will not give you drink money.
What station is it ?
How long do we stop?
Where is the refreshment-room?
Where is the W. C. ?
Where is the telegraph-office ?
Whei-e is the luggage ?
Za godzinen,
Pora yehaU,
Kturendi droga do — f
Foshen pokazats mi droguen,
Taka to drdga ?
Tshi yuj zapjzhenjzhono f
Tso syen natezhif
Trinkgeld, na vudken,
Ta dam na vudken.
Fa nye dam na vudken,
Taka to statsia ?
Yak dlttgo syen zatzkimn^e ?
Gdzye yest buffet ?
Gdzye yest prevet.
Gdzye telegraf?
Gdzye pakunkif
Naves of the Months, &c
January
February
March
April
May
June
July
August
September
October
November
December
Monday
Tuesday
Stitshm.
Wednesday
Lvti.
Thui-sday
Mazheta.
Friday
Kvyetsyin.
Saturday
Mai.
Sunday
Tshervyeta.
Winter
Lipyets,
Summer
Syerpyen,
A year
Vzhesyen.
A month
Pazdezyemik,
' A week
Zistopai.
A day
Grudzyen,
An hour
Half an hour
VtoreK
Sroda,
Tchvarteh
Pyontek,
Sobota.
NyedzyeJa^
Zima,
Lata,
Rok.
Myesywds,
Tydzyen.
Dzyen.
Godzma,
Pulgodziny,
The Numebals,
1. Yeden.
2. Dva.
3. Tshi.
4. Tshteri,
5. Pyenta,
6. Shests.
7. Syedeai.
8. Osyem,
9. J)zyevyents,
10. Dzyesyents,
11. TedenrnastsyS,
12. Dva-nastsyi*
And so on, always adding nastayS to
each number, up to
20. Dva-dzyestaya^
21. Dvordzyesiaya yeden,
22. Zha-dzyestsyadva.
And 60 on, always adding the unit op
to ten ; and then
30. Tsliidzyestai.
40, Tchterdzyeatsi.
50. Pyenta-dzyeayont,
60. Shesta-dzyeayont,
70. Syedemrdzyesyont,
80. Osyem-dzyesyont,
90. Dzyevyenta^yeayont,
100. ^Sto,
500. PyentaaH.
1000. TUyonts,
Digitized by VjOOQIC
Poland, 9. — Literature. 349
9, — LlTERATUBB.
It has already been mentioned in the Historical Notice that until towards
the end of the eighteenth century tl\e Polish historians wrote almost exclu-
sively in the Latin language. Poland has also produced more than one
poet whose habitual literary language was the Latin. The sermons of one
of her finest preachers (Skarga — end of sixteenth and beginning of seven-
teenth century) have been translated into French, The best available
account of Polish literature, ancient and modern, for readers in the West of
Europe, is to be found in Mickiewicz's lectures, entitled * Cours de Litt^rature
Slave.* Mickiewicz's poems have been translated into French by his fellow-
countrjrman, Christian Ostrowski. Mickiewicz, Krasinski, and Bogdan
Zaleski, tiie three greatest poets of modem Poland, all died in exile
since 1855. Mickiewicz was a native of Lithuania, Krasinski of the
kingdom of Poland, Bogdan Zaleski of the Ukraine, Lelewel, one of
the most learned historians of Poland, and a leading member of the
democratic party in the Polish emigration, died at Paris in 1861. Szai-
nocha, a less political and more impartial historian than Lelewel, whose
labours (which have cost him his sight) throw great light on the origin
of Poland and the Polish nobility, lives at Lemberg (Galicia), where
Vincent Pol, the author of numerous charming poems, also resides. Vincent
Pol was half murdered in the Galician massacres of 1846. The young poet
Komanowski was killed in the late insurrection. The poetess " Deotyma,"
celebrated for her improvisations, lived in Warsaw until the troubles of 1863,
when, her father being sent into exile, she determined to accompany him.
Modem Polish literature is nearly all of one colour, and founded on one
sad theme ; and, in the lives of the principal writers, that of the country
itself seems to be reflected.
10, — ^Mbasubes, Weights, and Coins,
The legal measures and weights are the same as in Bussia ; but some of
the German weights and measures are still used in trade.
Tlie coinage is the same as in Bussia, with the exception of a coin, much
current, callS 10 grosh, value 5 copecks.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROUTES.
[The names of places are printed in italics only in those routes where the places are degcribed.}
ROUTE PAGE
34. Berlin to Warsaw, via Brom-
berg and Thorn 351
35. St. Petersburg to Warsaw, via.
Wilna 360
36. Vienna to Warsaw 361
37. Warsaw to Lodz 362
38. Warsaw to Sandomir, np the
Vistula 362
39. Warsaw to Prussian Frontier,
down the Vistula .... 362
ROUTE PAGE
40. Warsaw to Cracow, via Badom
and Kidtse 363
41. Warsaw to Novogeorgievsk. . 364
42. Warsaw to St. Petersburg,
via PuUusk, Ostrolenha, and
Kowno 364
43. Warsaw to Moscow, vi4 Brest-
Litevski and Bobruisk . . 364
44. Warsaw to Kief, via Brest . . 365
45. Warsaw to Lemberg, via ittSKn 366
ROUTE 34.
BERLIN TO WARSAW, VIA BROSIBEBG AND
THOKN, BY RAIL.
Trains from the Eastern Railway
(Frankfort-on-Oder) Terminus at Berlin
morning and evening {vide Handbook
for Northern Germany).
The kingdom of Poland is entered at
Alexandrov, frontier stat., where pass-
ports and luggage are examined.
The next stat. is
Vlotslavek, on the Vistula, about
120 m. from Warsaw. Pop. 8500.
Considerable trade in grain. A ca-
thedral.
Ostrov. There is a large sugar
inanufiEictory here. A line hence to
Posen is projected, and being surveyed.
Kutno, 80 m., a town of 5600 Inhab.,
on small river Okhna.
Lovitsh, 52 m., a district town on
river Bzur, of great antiquity, having
existed as ear^r as the 12th centy.
Pop. 6000. It is now a thriving in-
dustrial and commercial town. Con-
siderable feirs for horses and cattle
held there. At a short distance from
the town, at Lishkovits^, is a large
sugar-refinery; in the vicinity is Nie-
borov, a fine castle, and Arcadia, a
pretty villa, belonging to the Princes
Radziwlll.
Skiemievitse, about 40 m. from
Warsaw. Pop. 3000. Junction for
Vienna-Warsaw Railway. This was
anciently the residence of the Arch-
bishops of Gnesen, Princes Primate of
Poland. It was given by the Emperor
Alexander I., together with some ex-
tensive domains confiscated by the
Prussian Government after the partition
of Poland, to Marie Grudzinska, created
at the same time Princess of Lovitsli,
on the occasion of her marriage with
the Grand Duke Constantino, brother of
the Emperor. At her death the Prin-
cess bequeathed all this property to tlio
kings of Poland. A fine deer-park to
be seen.
Ruda Guzovska, 27 m. There is a
flax-mill here, founded by Gerard, a
French engineer resident in Poland.
A short distance from the stat. are
some of the largest sugar manufactories
Digitized Dy vjv^v^v iv^
362
Boute 34. — Warsaw.
Sect in.
in Poland, viz., at Gnzov, HennanoT,
and Oryshev.
Two small stats, beyond (Grodzisk
and Prushkov) is
Wabsaw.— Pop. 181,000.
Hotds. — Hdtel de TEiirope, cuisine
bad; H. d'Angleterre, cuisine good,
accommodation very bad (Napoleon
occupied a room here on his flight from
Moscow) ; the Cracow, Paris, Vilenski,
Rome, and Saxe Hotels.
BestauranU. — At the Hotel de TEu-
rope and the Hotel d'Angleterre.
Vehicles. — ^Drojkies are stationed in
the streets. The fare is 20 copecks the
journey, or 75 cops, per hour. The
cliarge for a whole day is 5 rubles (158.).
Elegant and clean carriages may be ob-
tained at the hotels.
CZt*6g.— The Beaource of the Mer-
chants and the New Besource of the
Merchants. The Russian Club, in the
confiscated Zamoyski palace, in New
World-street. Strangers may become
members, but must be balloted for.
British Ccmsulaie General. — Corner
of the Allee and Place UjazdovsM,
where any information can be obtained
relative to passports, &c.
Topography. — Warsaw is situated on
the 1. l^k of the Vistula, at a con-
siderable elevation above the water-
level. The Prague suburb lies on the
rt. bank of the river. Founded in the
12th centy., it became in the 14th the
seat of the princes of the royal family of
Piast, appanaged by the duchy of Ma-
sovia. On the extinction of that branch
at the commencement of the 16th centy.,
the duchy of Masovia, a feudal posses-
sion of Poland, reverted to the Crown,
and soon after the kings of Poland, be-
ginning with Sigismund III., made War-
saw their residence, and consequently the
capital of the kingdom.
The town was originally composed of
the Stare Miasto, or old town, strongly
resembling the old towns of Germany.
The castle of the Dukes of Masovia
stood at one extremity, and it was en-
circled by vast suburbs, long since incor-
porated witii the town. Its present ap-
pearance is pretty, gay, and animated.
but it offers little of interest to the tra^
veller who is not attracted by business
or by a desire to make the couniry his
special study.
In order to have a general view of
the town the visitor should proceed to
tiie terminus of the St. Petersburg Rly.,
in the Prague suburb, whence a vast
panorama spreads out in every direction.
On the high bank of the Vistula oppo-
site will be seen successively the cita-
del, the old portions of the town, the
castle {Zamek) with its gardens, the
new parts of me town, and, lastly, the
public promenades and gardens which
environ the imperial villa of LazienkL
For a bird's-eye view the traveller
should ascend the cupola of the Lu-
theran ch. From that elevation will
be seen the square of the Boyal Castle
and tiie 4 pnncipal arteries of circulft-
tion: — the 1st through the old town,
towards the citadel and the country-
seats of Mariemont and Bielany; the
2nd along Senator-st., Electoral-st., and
Khlodna-st, towards the Vola suburb ;
the 3rd along the street called the Cracow
suburb, through New World-st. and the
avenues towards Lazienki and the Castie
of Villanov ; and the 4th across the (
bridge on the Vistula, and through the
Prague suburb, tovrards the battle-
ground of Grokhov.
The Square of the Boyal CasOe should
be the starting-point for visiting the
town in detaU. It was the scene of the
most important popular demonstra-
tions in 1861, when it was twice
stained with the blood of the people.
A bronze statue stands in the square, re-
presenting King Sigismund III. (Wasa),
erected on a monolith of native marble,
by his son Vladislas IV., ornamented
with Polish eagles, and recently sur-
rounded with fountains. Opposite is
the BoYAli Castle, called the Zamek,
built by the Dukes of Masovia. Addi-
tions were made to it by Sigismund
III. and Vladislas IV. of the Waaa
dynasty, whose arms are still seen on
the keystones of the arches. The
castle was restored by Augastaa III. of {
Saxony, and embellished by Stanislaufl
Augustus Poniatowski. ThQ pictures
Poland.
Boute 34, — Warsaio.
853
and objects of art by which it was
adomea were carried away after 1831
to St. Petersburg and Moscow. Since
that year the casUe has ceased to be an
imperial residence. The royal apart-
ments, situated in the eastern ps^ of
the building nearest the wardens and
the Vistula, are occupied by the lieu-
tenant of llie Emperor. The western
pert of the edifice, near the squai'e, con-
taining the halls where the Senate and
the Chamber of Deputies of Poland
once assembled, is now a barrack. The
Biches that support the terraces of the
gardens are converted into cavalry
stables. A small palace, called Pod
blakhon, situated below the castle, bought
of the Counts Lubomirski by King Sta-
nijlaus Augustus, for his nephew ^nce
Joseph Poniatowski, and now occupied
by the Diplomatic Chancery of the
Lieutenant, communicates with the
castle. A gallery leads from the latter
to the royal pew in the cathedral.
Having obtained a general idea of
the topography of the town, and visited
the Castfe Square, the traveller who can
afford the time should take the 4 walks
here described, and stop to see the
buildings and objects enumerated.
Those, however, who do not wish to
stay more than a day or two at Warsaw
(and few travellers have found it neces-
sary to remain longer), wUl be satisfied
with viewing the castle and some of the
prinoelv residences in which the city
abounds. A visit toVillanov andLa-
zlenki must not in any case be omitted.
If driving be substituted for walking,
all the places to which the traveller
is here mtrodaoed may be seen in 2
days.
Itt TFoft.— Leaving the Castle Square
by SL John-st, the Old Town will be
entered. First will be seen the Cathe-
dral, built in the 13th centy. It be-
came an archiepiscopal ch. in 1818,
1 laving been previously only collegiate.
It was restored and ornamented by the
kings Michael Yisniovietski and John
Hobieski, whose arms are seen over the
royal pew and the stalls. There is a
fine portrait in mosaic of the Prince
Primate Poniatowski, brother of the
King. A monument by Thorwaldsen
is dedicated to Count Malakhovski,
Marshal of the celebrated Diet which
drew up the Constitution of the 3rd
May, 1792. The inscription on it is —
Przyiadeloun ludu (to the friend of the
people). Another monument records
the death of the learned Bishop Al-
bertrandi, a disting^shed historian,
and the first President of the Society
of the Friends of Science, a Idnd of
academy, founded after the partition
of Poland, under Prussian rule, and
suppressed by the Russian Government
in 1831. A porti-ait of Cardinal Hosjus,
Bishop of Varmie (Ermerland), a Pole,
and President of the Council of Trent ;
and the tombs of 2 Dukes of Warsaw,
brothers, of whom one was a bishop,
the other a soldier, complete the list
of remarkable objects in tiie caUi. to
which the attention of the stranger
need be directed. 2. Leaving the ch.,
and proceeding along St. John-st., the
Square of the Old Town will be crossed.
Beyond, in Freta-sty are the chs. of
the ancient convents of the Paulines and
the Dominicans (an old and fine Gothic
buildiag). 3. Passing through the
quarter called New Toton, the visitor
will come to the Oh, of Our Lady, the
most ancient sacred edifice in Warsaw,
but retaining no traces of its antiquity ;
then the Ch, of (lie Franciscans (4) ;
and beyond, again, the Sapieha and
Sierakovski Barrachs (5), built at the
expense of those illustrious families.
6. Leaving these behind, the visitor
will reach the Citadel, built in 1831,
at the expense of the town of Warsaw,
as a punishment for the insurrection of
1830, and with the object of bombard-
ing the town in case of another revolu-
tion. Within the citadel are several
barracks, the arsenal, the prison for poli-
tical offenders, and the military tri-
bunal by which they are judged. There
is also a Bussian ch., which was once
a Boman Catholic place of worship,
attached to a college now suppressed.
7. Passing the citadel and the town,
a walk of 2 hrs. will enable the traveller
to visit Mariemomtt an old country-seat
of the wife of John Sobieski ; 8, Com-
kadUf much frequented by thd inhabs.
S54
Bmte d^*— Warsaw;
S^t III.
of Warsaw ; 9, Bidany, a pretty place
on the Vistula, commanaing a fine
view; 10, Camaldolite Ch. and con-
vent; 11, the Summer Camp of the
Bussian troops qpartered at Warsaw ;
and (12) the CcUhdUc Cemetery of
Povoruki, foil of fine monuments and
tombs of men remarkable in politics,
science, and art.
On returning to town the Field of
Man (13), or military exercise-ground,
will be passed ; also the ItraeUte Hos-
vital (14), the best kept of all the
hospitals in town; (15) the Lunatic
Asylum; and feirther still (16), the
populous trading and iQ-sm6Uing ouar-
ter occupied by Jews, where the iron-
works of Messrs. Evans, LiUpop, and
Eau, the largest establishment of the
kind in the country, are situated. In
Krasiriski-square, beyond, is the Senate-
lumse (17), or old Krasinski Palace,
given by that iQustrious femily to the
Bepublic of Poland, to be converted to
the purposes of a High Court of Justice.
In the same square is {IS) the Bussian
Cathedral, once the ch. or the College,
suppressed in 1832, of the Frairum Sco-
larum-piarum, who, in the latter port
of the existence of Poland, produced
some of the most distinguished men in
the country.
Following Miodovorstreet, the travel-
ler will see successively (19) the Ch, of
the Bosnians of the Uniat Confession,
containing some fine pictures over the
Smuglericz altar ; (20) the Palace of (Ite
ArcWnsliops of War saw, inhabited last by
Archbishop Fialkovski, whose name is
known in connexion with the demon-
strations of 1861, and by Archbishop
Felinski before his exile ; close to
it is (21) the fine Palace of the Pac
(Pats) family, now confiscated; (22)
the Ch. of the Capudns, whose con-
vent, just suppressed, was founded by
King John III. SobiesM, in token of
gratitude for his victoiy over the Turks
at Vienna. In a chapel within this ch.
is a sarcophagus, containing the lieart
of that monarch, erected in his honour
by the Emperor Nicholas, in 1829, after
the war with Turkey. In the same
chapel is a sepulchral urn, dedicated to
the memory of King Stanislaus Au-
gustus PoniatowsM, with the inscrip-
tion, Morte quis fortiori Gloria et
Amor. Following Miodova-st., iSena-
tor-street will be reached near the Boyal
Castle, at the point from which the
visitor set out.
2»(J TTolfe.— Starting from Castle-
sq., and turning into Senator-str., the
first building that will meet the eye
is (1) the old Palace of the Princes
Primate. The Archbishops of Gnesen,
Primates of the Church of Poland, inde-
pendently of their high position in the
ecclesiastical hierarchy, rendered still
more brilliant by the dignity of Legate
of the Holy Apostolic See, which they
enjoyed by right (Legatus natus), were
the first senators in the kingdom, and,
in the intervals between the death of a
king and the coronation of his succes-
sor, they were at the head of the Govern-
ment (interrex). Their palace at War-
saw was confiscated, with other pro-
perty ot the Bishops, by the Prussian
Government, after the partition of
Poland. The Minister of War resid^
in this palace until 1831; and, after
having been occupied by various Go-
vernment oflices until 1862, it is now
appropriated by the Ministry of Public
Instruction. Following this street, a
fine square is reached, on which stands
(2) the Hotel de ViUe (Police-Office),
formerly the palace of the Princes Ja-
blonovwd, burned down in 1863. (3)
The Tfiealre, or rather 2 tlieatrea
within the same building, will be seen
in this square. The theatres are sup-
ported by the Government, and consti-
tute a monopoly. The Balleterinas are
very good at Warsaw. Italian openu
are sometimes given. (4) The Mint will
be seen in Bielanska-st, off the square.
Proceeding along Senator-str. the tra-
veller will come to (5) the Beformed
Church (belonging to a reformed order
of Franciscan friars). This beautiful
edifice contains a monument to Gniii<l
Marshal Bielinski, who contributtnl
greatly towards introducing order and
a police system in the ancient Republic.
In front of the ch. is (6) a Statue of the
Holy Virgin, very prettily illuminate<l
at night. Opgositeis^® a aufe. called
PolancL
Boute 34. — Warsaw.
355
The Resource of the Merchants, located
in a palace that once belonged to the
Marquises Myszkovski, whose title
and entailed estates have pa£»ed to the
family of Count WielopolsM, so weU
known in connection with revolutions
in Poland. The Bank Square is a
little way beyond. In it stands (8) the
Palace of tlie Counts Zamoiski, built in
a few weeks by King Augustus II., for
the Countess Orzelska, liis much-loved
natural daughter. Belonging at pre-
sent to one of the richest and most
illustrious families of Poland, it con-
tains some fine pictures, and many
remarkable objects of art. Opposite
is (9) the Bank of Poland, with a fine
Exchange-hall. Next to this are (10)
the handsome buildings of the Ministry
of Finance. Following the Bymarska
and Przhejazd streets in the same di-
rection, the Old Arsenal (11) will be
seen, where, on the 29th November,
the most sanguinary conflict at the
beginning of the revolution of 1830
took place ; there also is the Ministry
of the Interior, in the old Mostovski
Palace (12). Returning a short dis-
tance and following ie«^no - street,
the traveller wiU pass by (13) the Evan-
gelical Chapel, where the services of
the Church of England used to be per-
formed by an English clergyman. The
Church and the Convent of the Carmel-
ites (14), used as a prison before the
construction of the citadel, stand a
little farther on. It was the uncon-
stitutional incarceration of a number
of persons in this prison that provoked
the revolution of 1830. Entering Elek-
toroZfia-street, and following it, the
tourist will come to the Church of St.
Charles Borromeo (15), a recent edifice
of great elegance ; the wood-work is of
the larch, grown in the country.
Leaving the town by the Vda barrier,
tlie JEhHmgelical Cemetery (16) may be
\isited. John Cockerell, to whom
Belgium owes so much of her indus-
trial prosperity, lies buried there.
Refreshments may be obtained at (17)
the Ohm Gardens, in the vicinity, a
favourite resort of the inhabitants of
Warsaw.
18. The Bussian Cemetery has been
formed since 1831, within the fort con-
structed for the defence of Warsaw,
At the centre of the fort stands (19) the
eld parish church of Vola, now trans-
formed into a Russian church. In
1831, during the siege of Warsaw,
which might almost be called a battle
in front of Vola fort, General Sovinski,
its commandant, was killed by the
Russian troops at the foot of the altar
in that ch., having refused to surrender.
A new parochial Catholic church (20)
has recently been constructed, in lieu
of the one appropriated to the use of
the Russo-Greek Church. It is built
after the exact model of the old ch., and
stands in the centre of the plain on
which, in the 16tli, 17th. and 18th
centuries, the kings of Poland were
elected. Half-an-hour's walk will bring
the tourist to (21) Bashyn, a small
townlet, celebrated for the battle which
Prince Jos. Poniatowski fought there
in 1809 with the Austrians, and to (22)
Falenty, once a royal castle, and now
belonging to Count Przezdziecki, with
fine gardens and conservatories. Pisci-
culture is pursued here on a large scale.
The town will be re-entered by the
Jerusalem Barrier, along a fine avenue
of poplars, which runs down to the
Vistula. The Warsaio- Vienna Rly.
Stat. (23) will be passed, and oppo-
site to it (24) Kroneniberg s Cigar Manu-
factory. Turning to the 1. into Ma-
zovietska-st., the Hospital of the Infant
Jesus (25), for foundlings, one of the
largest civil hospitals in Warsaw, will
be seen. A little beyond is the fine
house and oflBces of (26) the Credit
Fonder of Poland. The Agricultural
Society, associated with the events of
1861, held its meetings there. Next to
it stands (27) the LuOieran Ch., a large
stracture with an imposing cupola, but
built with very little taste, com-
menced by Turkish prisoners in the
reign of John Sobieski. 28. The
Saxony Gardens (Jardin de Saxo), a
very &ie public park, with magnificent
chesnut-trees, are immediately opposite.
They once appertained to a maison de
plaisance, built by Augustus II., kuig
of Poland, of the tiaxon dynasty, whence
the name. The house, which was m a
856
Boute 34.— Waraaw.
Sect. m.
very pretty style of architecture, was
domohshed and replaced by a useless
colonnade and two very large blocks of
buildings of little beauty. At one
extremity of the gardens is (29) the
Market-plaoe, with " the Irongate,** and
the OosUtmoi Dvor, or bazaar, a pretty
building. At the other end of the
square is (30) Saxony Square (Place de
Saxe), where military reviews are held.
A monument was to have been erected
on it, by national subscription, to the
memory of Prince Joseph PoniatowsM,
the brilliant Polish leader, who pe-
rished at the battle of Leipsig in 1813.
A bronze equestrian statue haid already
been cast by Thorwaldsen when the in-
surrection of 1830 prevented its erec-
tion. After 1831 the Emperor Nicholas
made a present of the statue to Prince
Paskewitch, the victor of Warsaw, who
caused the head of the statue to be
replaced by another bearing his own
features, and the monument, in that
condition, to be erected on his inmiense
estates of Homel, in the province
of Mohileffi purchased, it is said, out
of the savings which he had made
during the 25 years of his vioeroyalty
in Poland. In place of the statue ori-
ginally contemplated the Emperor Ni-
cholas caused (31) a monument in the
shape of a truncated obelisk to be
erected in Saxony-square, commemo-
rative of the supposed fidelity of the
Polish generals who perished in the
revolution of the 29th Nov. 1830, and
of whom many were killed, by acci-
dent or mistake, while going to join
the regiments that had declared in
favour of the insurrection. 32. The
Briihl Palace likewise stands in Saxony-
squaxe; it was built by Count Briihl,
minister and favourite of Augustus III.,
and occupied between 1815 and 1830
by the Grand Duke Constantino, brother
of the Emperor Nicholas, and Com-
mander-in-chief of the Polish army.
Marquis Wielopolski took up his resi-
dence there in 1862 and 1863. 33.
The Hdtel de VEurope, a large and
fine building confiscated by the Govern-
ment in 1863, after the assassination
of a spy, stands at the other end of the
square.
3rd WdXk, — ^A third excursion may
be undertaken from the same square ol
the Royal Castle, beginning by the street s
called the Cracow Faubourg. The fol-
lowing remarkable objects wHl be
passed :— 1. Chutch of the Cement of the
Bemardine8, now suppressed ; one of
the 2 churches entered by the Busdan
troops in 1861, a large bmlding of con-
siderable beauty : &e archit^ture of
the cloisters will repay inspection.
2. Next to it, the home of the Benevolent
Society, with the inscription Bee Mcra
miser. : among other charitable works
the society disfiibutes soup gratuitonsly,
and supplies a dinner to tne poor at the
rate of a halfpenny per head. This
house was occupied during the French
emigration by Louis XVIII. 3. In
front of it is a small Statue of the Virgin,
before which, in 1861, the populace was
kneeling in prayer when they were
charged by the Cossacks with lanoe,
sabre, and whip. The street narrowed
considerably at this part, to spread out
farther on, and it is tlierefore being
widened. 4. The Post-office, 5. The
pretty Ch. of the Carmelites, suppressed.
The ancient archives of the Crown of
Poland are kept in this convent The ^
archives of Lithuania were removed to
St. Petersburg, where they remain in a
state which the student of history must
ever deplore. 6. Contiguous to it is
the Palace of the Namiestnik, so called
from its having been the residenoe of
the Namiestnik, or Lieutenant of the
Emperor, from 1815 to 1830. This
was anciently the palace of the Princes
Radziwill, but is now occupied by the
Council of Administration, and the
Council of State of the Kingdom of
Poland. 7. Opposite is the Palace
of the Counts Potochi, formerly be-
longing to the Princes Czartoiyaki.
8. Alongside the Hdtd del Europe, old
palace of the Princes Oginski. 9. On
the other side of the street, i^e Tamov-
ski Palace, with a garden and a fine
view of the Vistula. 10. A little ferther
is the fine Church of the Convent of the
VisitandineSj "mth a good painting over
the high altar. 11. Next to it, the ^
Palace of Count Potochi, anciently be-
longing tde to "TysaskiewicR &mily.
Poland.
Boute 34. — Warmuo,
357
fiunished "with taste and much luxury,
and containing some fine pictures and
works of art. 12. Close to this again is
the Palace of Count "Druski, anciently
the MokranoYskl Palace. 13. Beside it
is a vast courtyard with a great number
of buildings called the Caeimir Bar-
rcuikst because they were constructed by
King John Casimir. The Universitif,
suppressed in 1831, but restored m
1861, is at present located in these
buildings, together with its small li-
brary ; the public library, once the
most extensive in the world, having
been removed to St. Petersburg in 1794
{vide Imperial Public Library). A
second removal of books to St. Peters-
burg was made in 1881. Here are also
the zoological, mineralogical, numis-
matic, and other collections of the
university. It has a fine garden, with
a view of the Vistula. 14. Opposite is
the Palaoe of the Counts KrasinsM,
which once belonged to Badzieiovski,
of such unhappy celebrity by his par-
ticipation in advising Charles Gus-
tavus X., Bang of Sweden, to make war
on Poland. It contains a library, pic-
tures, and works of art. 15. Alongside
stands the Church of the Holy Cross, of
the suppressed convent of the order
of Lazarus, founded by the consort of
King John III. SobiesM. It is very
large and handsome ; the high altar is
particularly fine. In a lateral chapel
is the tomb of Prince Joseph Ponia-
towski 16. Monument to Copernicus,
the great astronomer, by Thorwaldsen,
erected by means of a national subscrip-
tion. 17. Behind the monument stands
the House of {he Society of the Friends
of Science, suppressed in 1831, and al-
ready mentioned in connection with the
monument to Bishop Albertrandi. It
is now occupied by a Bussian school ;
on its site once stood a Dominican con-
vent, which was for some time the
prison of Vassili Shuiski, elected by
the Boyars Tsar of Moscovy ; and that
of his brothers, taken prisoners by the
Poles, who occupied Moscow in 1611,
after a war which had been very use-
lessly and unjustly undertaken. 18.
ITacing this building are two large and
fine houses^ which once belonged to
Count Andrew Zamoishi: one of them
had been formerly the palace of the
Branicki family ; the other had belonged
to the Princes Sapieha, and Prince
Adam Czartoryski, me venerable repre-
sentative of the Polish emigration of
1831, resided in it. These two houses
were confiscated in 1863, after an at-
tempt made on the life of Count Berg,
Lieutenant of the Emperor, by means
of Orsini shells, thrown, according to
one account, from a window of the
latter house, and, according to others,
from a window of the house opposite,
then occupied by the School of Medi-
cine, and now by the Bussian School.
At this point the traveller will have
reached Novi Sviat (New World) street,
which leads to a large square (19),
with a very pretty little ch., dedicated
to St. Alexander, and built by order of
the Emperor Alexander I. to com-
memorate for ever the re-establishment
of a kingdom of Poland in 1815. 20.
In front of this ch. are 2 crosses,
erected, says a popular legend, to the
memory of two brothers who kUled
each other simultaneously in a very
singular combat, — both having been
in love with their own sister. Their
names are not remarkable, and deserve
no mention ; but the presence of these
2 crosses, and the legend with which
they are connected, opposite the ch.
built in memory of the re-annexation
of Poland to Bussia, is a mournful
emblem of the fratricidal struggle in
which for two centuries the two kmdred
people of the Slavonian race have been
engaged, and of which the true motive
is the desire of each to possess the
provinces inhabited by a sister na-
tion—the Buthenians. 21. Between
these crosses is a Statue of St. John of
Nepomuck, a saint much venerated
in Bohemia and Poland, who died
because he would not divulge a secret
that had been confided to him. This
statue was erected to commemorate
the first paving of the streets of Warsaw
by Grand Marshal Bielinski. 22. In
the same square is the £>eaf, Dumb,
and Blind Asylum, where those unfor-
tmiates are taught with care and
858
B(yute 34. — Warsaw,
Sect. in.
Buocess the arts and trades compatible
with their infirmities.
From tlie square, the Avenueg, or
Champs Elys^s of Warsaw, will be
entered, bordered by fine lime-trees in
front of elegant private residences.
Here are public gardens, in which the
inliabitants of Warsaw promenade, and
listen to music while partaking of
refreshments at the cafes. Walking on,
the traveller will emerge in a large
square where the troops are exercised.
23. Here stands the MUUary Hospital
of Uiazdov, formerly a castle of the
kings of Poland, and surrounded by an
extensive park. 24. A little beyond
are the Botanical Grardens and the
Observatory. 25. From this garden
the visitor will pass into the fine park
of Lazienki^ an elegant country resi-
dence, built by King Stanislaus Au-
gustus Poniatowski. This is the resi-
dence of the Emperor of Russia when
he comes to Warsaw, The ceilinors
are painted by BacciardU. The walls
are hung with portraits of the numerous
and remarkable Beauties of Warsaw in
the reign of Stanislaus. In the park
will be seen many villas dependent on
the Imperial residence, a very pretty
little Theatre in the Conservatory, an-
otlier larger one al fresco, and a
statue of King John Sobieski erected
by Stanislaus Augustus at the festival
commemorative of the 100th anniver-
sary of the victory gained at Vienna.
Looking at this statue in 1850, after
the war in Hungary, the Emperor
Nicholas exclaimed, "The two kings
of Poland that have committed the
gravest error are John III. and myself,
—for we both saved the Austrian
monarchy." , 26. The Lazienki Park
is contiguous to the fine gardens of the
Belvedere Palace^ formerly the residence
of the Grand Duke Constantino, and
where, in 1830, an attempt was to
have been made to deprive him of life
or liberty. It is now the residence of
the Emperor's Lieutenants. In one of
the rooms is a series of engravings
representing the uniforms of the Polish
troops prior to 1830.
From hence a pleasant walk of 2
hrs., past the Belvedere Barrier, will
bring the traveller to (27) the Ckis&e of
VUlanoVt now the property of Count
Botocki. It once belonged to King
John ni. Sobieski, who built it, and
lived much in it. It was here he died
in 1696. This chateau, of elegant
proportions, and in the style of an
Italian villa, with a terrace and wings,
ornamented with pictures and bas-
reliefs, was built in part by the Turks
whom Sobieski had made prisoners in
one of his glorious campaigns, and
finished on the original plan by Stanis-
laus Augustus. At the death of
Sobieski the domain of Villanov was
sold by his son to the Countess Sie-
niafska, and afterwards became suc-
cessively the property of Stanislas, of
the family of the Luborairskis, and of
the Count Potocki. It was to tliis
retreat that Sobieski brought back the
trophies of his mighty deeds in arms ;
it was here that he endeavoured to
forget the rival factions of his nobles
and the stormy debates of the diets:
and, finally, it was to this palace, and
accompanied by thousands of his coun-
trymen, who shouted their passionate
welcome, that lie came after he had
driven the Moslem from the walls of
Vienna. The walls of the first room
shown to strangers in the palace of
Villanov are hung with full-length
portraits of the Sapieha and Jablonov-
ski families, and of the Polish kings
and queens. In another apartment is
a collection of objects of art, armour,
and other curiosities. Here is pre-
served the magnificent suit of armour
presented by the Pope to Sobieski
after the Turks were driven frara
Vienna. It is covered with arabesques
and chasings, and inlaid with ivory
and mother-of-pearl. The room of tlie
beautiful Marie d'Arquien, Sobieski's
queen, is also shown, and near it is a
small one covered with pictures, re-
presenting the peccadilloes of Jupiter
from Danae down to Leda. The queen
herself figures on the ceiling amidst a
crowd of lovers ; and there is a portrait
and bust of her in an adjoining apart-
ment. In the collection of pictures
there are some works of Lucas «•:*
Leyden and Lucas of Cranaoh, wortbj
Poland.
Boute 34. — Warsaw,
359
of notice ; also an admirable Eubeus —
the Death of Seneca. In the park of
Villanov is the magnificent tent of
Kara Mustapha, one of the spoils of
war brought from Vienna by Sobieski.
Visitors will obtain refreshments at
an inn immediatly adjoining.
Not far from Villanov are two
charming villas belonging to Count
Potocki; (28) Morysin, with a fine
park and deer, and (29) NatoUn, where
pheasants are . preserved. 30. Near
these is Ursinov^ formerly belonging to
Julius Ursin Niemcevicz, the Polish
poet and historian, and fi-iend of Ko-
sciuszko and Washington. On the
way back to town many villas with
pretty and extensive gardens will be
passed, some private, others public.
The most remarkable are— (31) jKroK-
kaniia,B. picture gallery ; (32) Viezhbno ;
(33) Mokotov, very picturesque. Be-
yond is a large field where races are
held annually between the 15th and
20th June.
Having reached town by the Mokotov
Barrier, along the Avenue, and past
the ch. of St. Alexander, the traveller
may, by going into Kzionzhentsa-street,
pass in front of (34) St. Lazarus Hos-
pital for venereal diseases, which is
very well kept, and go into the indm-
trial part of the city, called Solec (35).
There the visitor will pass by the
iron-works of the Bank of Poland,
established by W. Perks, an English-
man ; the Carpet Manufact&ry of the
brothers Baumann ; the Engine Factory
of Count Andrew Zamoiski and Co. ;
the Chemical Works of Hirchmann and
Kuevski ; the Steam Mill and Baking-
Itoitse of the Bank of Poland ; and several
Breweries and other estoMishments of
minor importance. Re-entering War-
saw by Tameka-streetj a small castle
will be passed with a palace called
Ordijnatski^ (36), where the Conserva-
tory of Music is now located. This
small palace belonged to the Princes
Ostrogski, descendants of the Rurik
sovereigns of Russia, who held large
domains in Volhynia. It afterwards
passed to the Zamoiski, and later to the
Khodkiewitch (Chodkiewicz) families ;
three races from which the most dis-
tinguished soldiei-s of Poland have
sprung. The Cracow Faubourg is
reached here close to the statue of
Copernicus.
4:th Walk. — ^A fourth excursion may
be made, starting as before from the
Castle Square, and proceeding along
the fine road that leads to the Vistula.
The fine permanent iron bridge over the
river is 1890 ft. long; and was built on
6 trusses on the American principle,
by Kerbedz, the Polish Greneral of
Engineers, who constructed the Ni-
cholas Bridge over the Neva. The
bridge leads to the dirty Prague
Svburhy on the rt. bank of the
Vistula, where a horse and cattle
market is held. This suburb was
anciently fortified. It was taken
by assault in 1794 by the Russians
under Suwarofi^ when it was fired, and
its inhabitants, 16,000 in number, in-
discriminately put to the sword. The Gh,
of the BemardineSy now the parish ch.,
in which some of the inhabitants
vainly sought refuge, may be visited.
There is a fine Jewish Synagogue in
this part of the town ; and the terminus
of the St. Petersburg BaUway is also
there. A Tete-de-pont covers a fioating-
bridge, which is exclusively appro-
priated to the citadel of Warsaw.
From the Prague Suburb a further ex-
cursion may be made to the country
residences on an island of the Vistula,
called Sctsika Kempa, also a favourite
walk of the inhabitants of Warsaw.
Not far from thence is Grokhov village,
where a battle was fought in 1831.
Two monuments have been erected
there : one by order of the Emperor
Nicholas to commemorate the battle ;
the other in the reign of Alexander I.,
on tlie occasion of the construction of
the first royal road in Poland. There
are many distilleries in the neighbour-
hood, as well as tan-yards and other
establishments where the raw products
of tlie country are prepared.
Digitized by VJ.OOQIC
J
360 Bmte 35.-5/. Petersburg to Warsaw. Sect. III.
taxs, assaulted the town, but did not
succeed in establishing themselves per-
manently in it. It was attacked by
the Teutonic knights in 1284, 1296,
1306, 1311, 1328. 1361, and 1391, and
its feud mth the knights only termi-
nated in 1398, when Vitold ceded
Samogitia to the principality. The
most disastrous period in the history
of Grodno was the year 1284, when
the Teutonic knights under Ck)nrad
Tirberg razed the town to the ground,
and in 1391, when Malborg, the grand
master of the order, destroyed the upper
and lower castles, burned the town,
and devastated the neighbourhood.
From 1413 Grodno became a district
town of the voevodship of Trok, formed
out of the principalities of Trok and
Grodno. The most flourishing epoch
in the history of Grodno was the reign
of Stephen Batory, who made it his
residence and seat of administration.
In his reign a stone castle was erected
at the mouth of the Gorodnichanka :
its walls are still visible. In 1665 the
Russians took possession of the town,
which had been half destroyed by a
conflagration, and after this the Swedes
occupied it four years. In 1678 the
first ordinary general diets of the
kingdom of Poland assembled at
Grodno. The diet of 1793 held here
confirmed the partition of Poland, and
that of 1795 witnessed the abdication
of Stanislaus Augustus Poniatowski.
In the middle of the 18th centy.
Grodno was one of the most flourishing
towns of Lithuania and Poland. For
this prosperity it was indebted to
Tiesenhausen, its mayor, who esta-
blished many feu^tories, &c.,and founded
several schools and a public Ubrary,
museum, &c. In 1793 Grodno was
annexed to Bussia, and in 1801 made
a provincial town. The town contains
5 churches and 2 monasteries con-
verted to the use of the Russo-Greek
clergy, and 5 Rom. Oath, chs., of which
the oldest, belonging to the order of
Bemardine monks, was founded in
1494. There are also 2 Rom. Cath.
monasteries. The most important
buildings are the governor's house, the
military barracks or the old caatle, the
ROUTE 35.
6T. FETEBSBTJBG TO WAB8AW, VIA WILNA,
BT BAIL.
For route from St. Petersburg to
Wilna, vide Rte. 1, Sect. I., Russia.)
Passengers change carriages atWUna,
Landvorovo Stat., 245 m. from War-
saw.
Gbodno Stat., 160 m. from Warsaw,
chief town of the province of the same
name. Pop. 26,000.
The town is situated on the right
sloping bank of the Niemen, and on
the bf^nks of the Gorodnichanka rivu-
let. Some historians identify the prin-
cipality of Grodno, mentioned in the
chronicles of 1128, with the present
Grodno, while others recognise in it
the small town of Gorodno in the dis-
trict of Pinsk. In every case Grodno
(Gorodno, Goroden) was founded by
Slavoniansi and existed already in the
12th centy., as plain mention of it is
made in chronicles of the year 1183.
The churches of Grodno at this period
were built of stone, so that the place
must have been of considerable import-
ance* In 1224 Grodno was burned
down by the Teutonic knights, and in
1241, when ruled by Prince Uri Gle-
bovitch, it was almost completely
destroyed by the Tartar chief Kaidan,
who burned down its wooden castle
which stood on a mound at the point
where the Gorodnichanka falls into the
Niemen. In the same year the devas-
tated town was occupied by the
Lithuanians, led from the north by
Erdzivilla, nephew of the Grand Duke
Mindovgus. In 1259 Daniel and
Robert, Dukes of Galicia, assisted
by Duke BasU of Volhynia, and in
1277 the Dukes Mstiskf, Vladimir,
and Yury (George), aided by the Tar-
uigitized Dy ^^jkjkjwik-
Poland.
JRoute 36, — Vienna to Warsaw.
361
military hoepita], erected on the site of
the new castle built by Augustus II.
for the meetings of the Diet. The
trade is mostly in grain, timber, and
liemp, which are floated down the
Niemen for foreign exportation. A
fine bridge oyer the Niemen. 3 stats,
beyond is
Bialystok Stat., 108 m. 16,000 Inhab.
District town in province of Grodno,
anciently the property of Hetman
Branicki, brother-in-law of Stanislaus
Augustus. It was the chief town of
the district of iBialystok, transferred to
Prussia at the partition of 1796, and
ceded by Napoleon I. to Bussia in 1807
by the Treaty of Tilsit. Eleven years
of good government between those
dates produced an amount of material
prosperity, of which the measures of
General Mouravieff between 1863 and
1865 have not been able to destroy all
traces. The kingdom of Poland is
entered one stat. beyond« at
Lapy^ where there is a bridge over
the navigable river Narev, which forms
the boundary of the province of Grodno,
and that of Augustovo in the kingdom
of Poland. 2 small stats, beyond is
Malkin, 52 m. A bridge over the
Bug river.
After passing 2 insignificant stats,
the train reaches
Wab8aw» described in Bte. 34.
ROUTE 36.
TIENNA TO WARSAW, BY BAIL.
For route to Polish frontier from
Vienna, vide Handbook for Southern
Oermany.
The kingdom of Poland will be
ontered, if coming from Austiia» at
Granitsa, or, if travelling from Prussia,
at Somovitse, at both of which places
luggage and passports undergo ex-
amination. The 2 branch-lines meet
at Zombkowitse, 183 m. from Warsaw.
There are coal, iron, and zinc mines in
the neighbourhood ; also iron and zinc
works. 3 stats, beyond is
Tszenstokhova Stat, 143 m., on the
1. bankoftheWarta. Pop. 9000. This
town is celebrated for its convent,
situated on a small elevation called
Jasna Gura {dara-mom), which at-
tracts numerous pilgrims from all parts
of Poland, and even from Silesia,
which has been separated from Poland
for more than 6 centuries. It contains
a fine ch., with a chapel dedicated to
the Holy Virgin, much venerated by
the Poles since the wars with Charles
Gustavus of Sweden, under the name
of Begina Begni PolorUse, The picture
of the Virgin is reputed to have been
painted by St. Luke. The convent is
surrounded by a pretty little fortress in
the shape of a quincunx. Frequently
besieged by the enemies of the country,
it was gloriously defended against the
Swedes in 1655 by its Prior Kovdecki,
to whom a suitable monument was
erected in 1861; and once more in
1771 against the Russian troops, by
Gasimir Pulavski, one of the chiefs
of the Confederation of Bar, afterwards
killed near Savannah during the War
of Independence. 3 stats, beyond is
Petrilau (Piotrkov)» 91 m., Pop.
11,000, on the small river Shrava*
The ancient tribunals of Poland were
held here. A hue to Lublin will be
constructed from this point Passing
the stat. of Boby, of which nothing
interesting can be said, the train
reaches
Bokidny Stat, from which a line runs
to Lodz. 2 stats, beyond is
Skiemievitse, junction with Warsaw-
Bromberg Railway, described in Bte.
34, which see for the remainder of
the journey to Wabsaw.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROUTE 37.
WARSAW TO LODZ.
By rail to Bokiciny Stat, on Warsaw
and Vienna line. Thence by branch
lino to
Lodz, Pop. 34,000, in the centre of a
large cotton-manufiacturing district
362 Bouie 37, 38, 39. ^Warsaw to Prussian Frontier. Sect. HI.
Prince Paskievitch, at the mouth of
the small navigable river Viepsh.
Pulayy, small trading town, with a
magnificent castle and an estate, con-
fiscated in 1831, which belonged to
Prince Gzartoryski, and is now called
Nova Alexandria. There is a School
of Agriculture here.
lanovitse. Fine ruin of a castle of
the Firlei family.
Kazimiezh, a small trading town,
founded by Casimir the Great. The
Jews enjoyed great privileges in it.
The house inhabited by Esther, a
Jewess, who was the king's mistress, is
still shovm.
Zavikhost, small town with a Custom-
house.
Sandomir. Pop. 4000. Very prettily
situated, with an ancient cathedral
and a castle. It was several times
devastated by invasions of the Tartars,
Cossacks, Swedes, Austrians, and Rus-
sians. The navigable San river flows
into the Vistula near the town.
KOUTE 38.
WAKSAW TO SANDOMIB, UP THE VISTULA,
BY BTEAMEB.
Count Andrew Zamoiski and Co.
have started small passenger steamers,
which navigate the Vistula in summer
both above and below Warsaw. Tra-
vellers may leave the kingdom by this
route, visiting many places of interest
on the way, of which we may mention
the following : — _
Gura Calvaria. A place of pilgrim-
age.
Czersk (Chersk). Ruins of a castle
of the Dukes of Masovia.
Mnishev, at the mouth of the Pilitsa
river, which is likewise navigable.
Matsieiovitse, a castle belonging to
Count Zamoiski. The battle-field on
which Kosciusko was wounded and
taken prisoner by the Russians.
Ivangorod, a fortress near the small
town of Demblin, the property of
ROUTE 39.
WARSAW TO PRUSSIAN FBONTIEB, DOWX
THE VISTULA, BY STEAMER.
Travellers may return to Prussia by
this route.
The steamer will pass imder the
walls of the Citadel of Warsaw, close
to the convent of Bielany and the
pretty castle of Jablona, belon^n*]^ t<»
Count Potocki. The places of mten^st
beyond are —
Novogeorgievsk, or Modlin — its name
since 1831. A fortress of considerable
strength, requiring 12,000 men for its ,
defence, and which, having been Be vera!
times besi^g^gy^g^^waya held out
Poland.
Boute 40. — Warsaw to Cracow,
363
until the end of each campaign without
being taken. It lies about 10 m.
below Warsaw, at the confluence of
the Narev and Bug with the Vistula.
Fine store-house for grain.
Zakrotshim, a small town, in which
the Diet of Poland met in 1831 after
the fell of Warsaw.
Chervinsk (Czervinsk). Buins of a
large castle oi the Dukes of Masovia.
Vyshogrod (Wyszogrod), a town with
a small trade, at the mouth of the
Bzura.
Dobzhykov. Large granaries.
Flotsk (Flock). 13,000 Inhab. Pro-
vincial town, weU built, and prettily
situated. In the cathedral will 1>b
seen the tombs of Vladislas, Hermann,
and Boleslas III., Kings of Poland,
and of Bishop LubiensM, one of the
most distinguished of modem Latin
scholars.
Duninovo. A sugar manufactory,
with a brewery, close by.
Soczevka. Paper-mill, belonging to
Mr. Epstein, banker at Warsaw.
Dobrzyn. Buins of a castle.
Vlotslavek, described in Bte. 34.
Tsiekhotsinek (Oiechocinek). Salt-
springs and salt-works. Establishment
for saline baths.
BobroYniM. Buins of a castle on an
island of the Vistula.
Nieshava. Polish Custom - house
for the Vistula and the Prussian
frontier.
Beyond, in Prussia, the Vistula flows
past file fortress of Thoiin ; the castle of
KriiM, given in the 13th centy., by
Coilrad Duke of Masovia, to the Teu-
tonic Knights, on condition that they
should conquer the pagan Prussian
peojple — they effected the conquest, but
retained it ; Masdsnwebdeb, a fine
castle of the Grand Masters of the
Teutonic Order ; Dieschau. where there
is a magnificent railway bridge ; and
lastly, Dantzig, where the Vistula fells
into the Baltic, after flowing 665 m.
from its source in the Carpathians.
See Hcmdbooh of NorOi Germany.
Bu8$ia—lS6S.
BOUTE 40.
WABSAW TO OBAOOW, VIA RADOM AND
' KIELTBE, BT BOAD.
Although it is not probable that
many travellers will leave the lines of
rly. above described, yet we feel bound
to sketch out some itineraries along
the " royal roads ** of the kingdom, for
the benefit of the more enterprising
tourist.
The distance between Warsaw and
Cracow, by the " royal road," is 282 J v.
or 190 m. The cost of posting the
whole way, with two horses, is 28 r.
92^ c. A mail-coach as fer as
Kieltse. The following places wiU be
Bashin. . Battle-field in 1809.
Groiets, a town with a small trade.
Bialobzhegi. Bridge over the Pilitsa.
Badoni, 10,000 Inhab. ; chief town
of province ; 65 m. from Warsaw.
A road branches off hence to Pulavy
and Lublin, and another, via. Skaryshev
and Opatov (where there is a fine ch.,
with a tomb of the Shidloviecki femily),
to Siandomir, on the Vistula.
Shidlovits, 4000 Inhab., with a ch.,
and the ruins of a castle of the Shid-
loviecki family.
Suhedniov. Seat of the administra-
tion of the Grovemment iron-mines.
A chau88^ branches off to Zavikhost
on the Vistula, passing many iron-
mines.
Kieltse, 5000 Inhab., 112 m. from
Warsaw;; situated at the foot of the
mountains of the Holy Cross. A ca-
thedral adorns the town, and an epis-
copal palace, confiscated by the Bus-
sian government. A road leads hence
to Busk. Sulphur-baths. Boyal road
s
364 Btes. 41, 42, ^d.— Warsaw to St. Petersb. and Moscow. Sect. HI.
continues to Cracow, passing by Bialo-
g(m, where there are some iron- works ;
Khendny, celebrated for its marble-
quarries ; Knonzh, a fine castle of the
Marquis WielopolsM ; and MiehhoVf
where one of tiie bloodiest battles of
the insurrection of 1863 was fought.
Obaoow is about 8 m. beyond the
frontier of the kingdom of Poland.
ROUTE 41.
WABSAW TO NOVOGEOEGIEVSK, BY EOAD.
Should the steamer down the Vistula
be unavailable, travellers may take post
horses to the fortress of Novogeorgievsk,
or Modlin, 3} v. distant, at an expense
of 37i copecks. It is described in
Rte. 39. The small town opposite the
fortress is called Nove-Miasto.
. ROUTE 42.
WABSAW TO ST. PETEESBUEG, VIA PUL-
TUSK, OSTKOLENKA, AND KOWNO, BY
EOAD.
Distance 699 v. ^466 m.) to Kowno,
and 1075 v. (717 m.) to St. Petersburg.
Postmg, 2J cop. per horse to Kowno,
and 5 cop. beyond.
After passing Jablonna the traveller
will be driven through Zegzhe, a fine
estate of the Counts Krasinski. There
is a bridge here over the Narev.
Pultusk, 5000 Inhab., celebrated for
the battle fought by Charles XII. with
the Saxons in 1703, and that of the
French with the Russians in 1806.
Ostrolenka, 3000 Inhab. One of the
fiercest battles of the insurrection of
1831 was fought here.
Augustov, 8000 Inhab. The Au-
gustov Canal, here crossed, connects
file Vistula with the Niemen.
Suwalki, 13,000 Inhab. Chief town
of province of Augustovo. The next
large town is
KowKO, described in Rte. 1., Sect. I.,
Russia. Here the train may be taken
to St. Petersburg or Berliiu
ROUTE 43.
WARSAW TO MOSCOW, VIA BBEffT-LlTEV-
SKi (terespol) and BOBBUISE.
The distance between Warsaw and
Moscow is about 1188 v., of which
192 V. (to Terespol) may be made by
rail, the principal stats, on which are—
SiEDLTSE, 84 V. from Warsaw) a
town of 8000 Inhab.
MiENDzizHETs, 136 V. from Warsaw.
Pop. 8000, A fine estate belonging to
Count Potocki, and formerly to the
Prince Czartorysld.
BiALA,'. 159 V. from Warsaw. Pop.
4000. An old estate of the Princes
Radziwill. A fine castle in ruins.
Tebespol, 192 V. from Warsaw.
From hence the railway will be car-
ried over the Bug to
Beest- (or Bzhests-) Litevski, Pop.
20,000, on rt. bank of Bug, at junc-
tion with Mukhovetse.
Tli^ *o^g,aldi^§^^L^entioned
Poland.
Boute 44. — Warsaw to Kief.
3G5
in 1020, when it was taken by Boles-
laus the Brave, King of Poland. In
1189 King Casimir the Just built a
castle here. After that it frequently
changed masters, the princes of Ga-
licia, Yolhynia, Lithuania, and the
kings of Poland, holding it in turn.
It was devastated by the Tartars in
1241, and rebuilt in 1275 by Vladimir
Prince of Yolhynia, whose stone castle
was demolished in 1831, when Brest-
Litefski was made a Bussian fortress.
In 1319 Guedemin, Grand Duke of
Lithuania, took the town, and later it
came into the possession of Boleslaus
of Masovia, at whose death in 1340 it
was claimed by King Casimir of
Poland, and by him given to the son
of Guedemin. From that time it be-
came part of Lithuania under the
name of Brzesc. In 1379 the Teu-
tonic Knights destroyed its suburbs,
in 1436 a peace was concluded here
between Poland and the German
order. The Khan of the Crimea,
Mengli Ghirei, ravaged and burned
the town in the latter part of the 15th
centy. Diets were frequently held
here in the reign of Sigismund II. In
1599, after the union of Lithuania
with Poland, Brest became the resi-
dence of the Princes Badziwill, who
were made governors or ** elders " of
the town. The Uniat faith was
adopted here in 1594 at a council of
bishops from Western Bussia, and in
1596 another "orthodox council," held
at Brest, cursed those who had seceded
from that faith. In 1706 the Swedes
pillaged the town, which was incor-
porated with Bussia at the second
partition of Poland. About half the
inhabitants are Jews. In the 16th
centy. their synagogue was considered
the first in Europe^ A consider-
able trade is carried on in com, lin*
seed, hides, timber, &c., much of
which is floated down to Dantzig. • By
means of the " Boyal Canal " the Bug
and the Mukhovets rivers afford
fluviatile communication with Prussia
and Austria. The fortress, about a
mile from the town, is of the first
class.
Until the railway is pushed on hence
to Smolensk, the traveller will have to
post from Brest to Boslavl on Witebsk-
Orel line, passing through
KoBBTN, a small town on the canal
which unites the Vistula with the
Dnieper.
Slutsk. Pop. 9000. A small town
anciently celebrated for the Calvinist
schools, patronized by a branch of
the Badziwill family professing that
confession; and for its manufactories
of the girdles worn with the old Polisdi
dress.
Bobruisk. Pop. 24,000. A fortified
town on the Beresina. The fortress is
one of the strongest in Europe.
Bogatshev. Pop. 3000. A small
town on the Dnieper.
BoffTAVL. Stat, on Witebsk-Orel line.
ROUTE 44.
WARSAW TO KIEF, Vli BREST, BY ROAD.
To Brest-Iitevski as in preceding
route. Distance to Kief 764 v* (510 m.).
Posting for 2 horses 47 r. 60 c.
Kovel, a small town.
Rovno. Castle and estates of Prince
Lubomirski.
Kozhets, a small town. After the
extinction of the princely family of
Korecki, a branch of the reigning
family of Lithuania, this property
passed to the Princes Czartoryski,
another branch of the same fiimily*
Ruins of a castle.
Novgorod Volynski, small town on
the Slutsh river.
JrroMiB, 638 v. from Warsaw, chief
town in province of Volhynia. Pop,
38,000. Sold: Minelle; accommo-
dation good.
The town is situated at the junction
of the Kamenki with the Teterev.
According to tradition it was founded
by Jitomir, one of the favourites of
Askold and Dyr. In 1240 and 1287
the town suffered at the hands of the
Tartars, and in 1320 was taken pos-
session of by Guedemin, Prince or
s 2
366
BotUe 45. — Warsaw to Lemberg.
Sect. III.
Grand Duke of Lithuania. On his
death Jitomir fell to the share of his
sou Olgerd. In 1377 the latter was
succeeded by his son Vladimir, from
whom the town was seized by Vitovt,
Prince of Jmudi, nephew of Olgerd.
Vitovt made it over to his brother
Svidrigailo, on whose death the former
again resumed possession of it, and
appointed prince John Olskanski go-
vernor. In 1399 Jitomir was destroyed
by the Tartar Khan Edigei, who de-
feated Vitovt on the river Vorskla.
In 1444 Jitomir was one of the 15
principal towns of Lithuania. In 1545
it was destroyed by fire. In 1606 it
was devastated by the Tartars. In
1622 its castle was strongly fortified.
Bogdan Khmelnitsky ravaged the
town in 1648. In 1686 it was made
the principal town of the Voevodship
of Eaef. A monastery and college of
the order of the Jesuits was founded
here in 1726. In 1778 Jitomir was
annexed to Bussia. Ten of its churches
are devoted to the use of the Russo-
Greek clergy. The cathedral was
built in 1776, and the ch. of the
Assumption of the Virgin, which
stands on a rock, in 1700. There are
2 Roman Catholic places of worship in
the town. Of these the cathedral was
founded by Samuel Bishop of Kief and
Chemigoff. The Catholic monastery
of the order of Bemardine monks was
established in 1761 by Caetan Ilinsky.
There is also a Jewish synagogue
here. The trade of the place is insig-
nificant, and is carried on mostly by
Jews. There are 3 market-days dur-
ing the week, and 2 fairs are held
annually— the first on the 8th (20th)
of July, and the second on the 14th
(26th) August.
Kief; for a description of which
vide Rte. 12, Sect. I., Russia.
ROUTE 45.
WARSAW TO LEMBBBG, VIA LUBLIN, BY
BOAD.
The mail-coach goes no farther than
Zamosts, but there is a good road
through Tomashov, on the frontier of
the Mngdom, to Lemberg. We need
only point out — . .
RyM, a small town, with a bridge
over the Viepsb. In the ch. is the
tomb of the rather of King Stanislas
Augustus Poniatowski. A road branches
oflf to the fortress of Ivangorod. Pisci-
culture carefully pursued here.
Kurov, a smsJl pretty town. A road
hence to Pulavy, or Nova Alexandria.
Lublin, 137 v. firom Warsaw, 19,000
Inhab. ; chief town of province, of con-
siderable beauty and antiquity. It has
a good trade. Lubliu was the seat of
the old Polish Tribunals, and the place
of meeting of several Diets, the most
celebrated of which is that of 1569,
which sanctioned the union of Litha-
ania with Poland (vide Rte. 1, Sect. I.,
Russia). It contains a cathedral, and
the Palace of the Tribunals.
Piaski, 22J v. beyond Lublin. The
highway to Podolia and Odessa passes
through this town.
Krasnystaf, 4000 Inhab.
Zamosts, a town of 4000 Inhab., for-
merly fortified. In 1813 the Polish Ge-
neral Hauke was besieged in it by the
Russians, and only surrendered at the
end of the campaign. This town was
once the property of the Zamoiski
family. The Hetman John Zamoiski for-
tified it at his expense. He also founded
a university there, which was suppressed
in 1820, on the establishment of a uni-
versity at Warsaw. There is a pretty
ch. in the town, and in one of the
chapels is a picture attributed to Ra-
phael. John Zamoiski lies buried
there. Leaving the kingdom at To-
maskov, the traveller will pass ZoCkief^
the birthplace of John III. Sobiedd, on
his way to
Lembebo, the capital of Austrian
Gkdicia. UigitizedDyVJV^'V^viv^
GRAND DUCHY OF FINLAND.
Digitized by VjOOQLC
Digitized by VjOOQLC
SECTION IV.— FINLAND.
INTRODUCTION.
PAGE
1. Historical Notice 369
2. Language 372
3. Words and Phrases 375
4. Measures, Weights, and Coins.. 379
PAGE
5. steamboats 380
6. Travelling — Posting, Mail
Coaches, &c 380
7. General View of Finland .. .. 382
1. — Historical Notice.
The superficial area of Finland comprises an extent of 6844 geographical
miles. Fertile plains occur on the W. and S.W. coasts, where they
have been formed by the recession of the sea. It has been proved
that, in the space of a centy., the western coast as far as Wasa has
risen 4J ft., while the remaining portion of the coast has not risen
2 ft. during the same period. The other parts of Finland abound
with mountains and lakes, and, with the exception of some portions of
North America, there is no country so covered with water as Finland. It
is probably owing to this circumstance that the name of the country,
" Finland," derives its origin from the ancient word " fennen," signifying
a morass ; ' in the Finnish language it is called " Suomi," which has
almost a similar meaning. It is to be observed that there is a distinc-
tion in the two denominations of " Finlander," and " Finn ;" the former is
applied to all the inhab. of Finland, and the latter only to those who belong
to the Finnish race. The Finnish people belong to the Caucasian family,
and it is supposed that they originally came from the foot of the Altai
Mountains. Traversing the Ural, they passed through Russia, leaving
fragments of their race in the provinces of Perm, Viatka, Archangel,
and Olonetz. The Cheremisses in the province of Kazan, and the Samo-
yedes on the borders of the White Sea, as well as the Esthonians and
the Hungarians, belong to the Finnish race. The Laplanders were the
first comers; they settled on the southern shores of the Baltic, from
whence they were driven away to the N. by other tribes, and they have
now been expelled to the utmost limits of cultivation. In the year 1249
there were stiU a great many Laplanders near Tavastehus. The Tavas-
tehuses and the Carels established themselves in Ingria and Finland, the
former occupying the south-western part of the country, and the- latter the
uigitized Dy \^kjkjs/l\^
370 l.—Eistoricdl Notice. Sect. IV.
eastern. The Finns were in ancient times divided into separate tribes, who
were always at war with each other ; no organised system of government
existing amongst them. They lived together in societies composed of a
great many families, their women enjoying great liberty, and being held
in great respect. They understood agriculture, and possessed- a few rude
laws.
Finland excited the covetousness of her neighbours at a very early date,
and she had to defend herself on the one hand from the attacks of the
Russians, and, on the other, from those of the Swedes. In 1157, at the
instigation of the Pope, St Eric, King of Sweden, undertook a crusade against
the Finns with the object of converting them, as well as in order to put an
end to their depredations on the Swedish coast^ an occasion on which he
founded the town of Abo. But it was only after the lapse of 150 years that
the power of Sweden was firmly established by Birger Jarl, who built the
town of Tavastehus. After the conquest of Wyburg in 1293, the Swedes
were brought into direct contact with the Russians, with whom the first
treaty of peace was made on the banks of the Neva in 1323, when it was
decided that the river Rajajoki should be the recognised boundary between
the two countries : a boundary that divides the two countries to the present
day. From that period Finland became a Swedish province, placed in all
respects on the same political footing as the other provinces of the kingdom,
the Finlanders sending representatives to the Swedish Diet* Its history
merged into that of Sweden, and the wars v<dth Russia, which had been
confined to petty incursions, assumed more extensive dimensions after the
accession of Ivan I., and continued with some short intervals until 1617 ;
when, during the reign of Gustavus Adolphus, the frontier was secured by
the conquest of Kexholm and Ingria, which were ceded by the treaty of Stol-
bova. During* a period of about 70 years Finland was not affected by the
war that was waged ; but, between the years 1692 and 1726, it was visited
by such great and numerous calamities as are seldom recorded in the history
of nations. During the great famine between the years 1692 and 1696 there
perished in the province of Abo alone 60,000 persons, and, in many parts
of the country, the churches, owing to the extinction of the population, were
obliged to be closed. In 1699 the great war with Russia, which lasted
21 years, commenced. Thousands of Finlanders perished in the wars of
Charles XII. ; 5 regiments completely disappeared during the march into
the Ukraine and at Poltava, having been either destroyed or captured. In
the province of Abo '40,000 men were enlisted as soldiers between the years
1700 and 1709. Between the years 1710 and 1715 the Russians invaded
the whole of Finland, and it was only when the peace of Nystadt was
signed in 1721 that Finland, with the exception of the province of
Wyburg, was restored to Sweden after having been occupied by Russia for
6 years. In 1721 the entire population of Finland amounted to 200,000 or
250,000 persons. Another famine, however, appearing between the years
1723-6, it was only towards the close of that period, owing to the efforts
of the Government and the beneficial effects of peace, that the country
began to wear a somewhat prosperous aspect ; and by the year 1738 the
population had already increased to 413,000 persons. Peace, however, was
not of longf duration, for the Swedes, anxious to regain possession of their
ancient provinces, declared war again in 1741 ; but, owing to a want of
Digitized Dy vjiv^v>»v iv^
Finland. 1. — Historical Notice, 871
money and foresiglit, the most necessary preparations were not made.
The army was in a disorganised conation, and, after a defeat at
Willmanstrand, was obliged to retreat to Helsingfors, where it was sur-
rounded by the Russians. A want of provisions, clothing, and forage
obliged the army to capitulate on the 23rd of August, 1742, Sweden
was at that period divided into two contending political parties, both
aspiring to power ; the peace party gaining greater ascendency as the war
proved more and more disastrous. The influence of this party extended
to the officers of the army, and paralysed to a certain degree the action
of the Commander-in-chief. To complete the disorder that reigned in
the army, two of the most responsible Generals were recalled to Sweden a
few days before the capitulation of the army, and paid with their lives the
faults committed by their faction. They were accused of treachery and
sentenced to death : an accusation of which history has fully acquitted
them, condemning them only for accepting a responsibility to which they
were not equal, and for having provided in so inefficient a manner for the
wants of the forces under their command. By the peace of Abo, in 1743,
the towns of Willmanstrand, Fredrikshamn, and Nystadt were ceded, and
the river Kymen, near Lovisa, was fixed upon as the boundary-line. The
same desire to regain the lost provinces induced Gustavus III. to com-
mence a war in 1788, when he himself headed an army ; but the
tragical Anjala conspiracy, so celebrated in history, obliged him soon to
return to Sweden, and a favourable opportunity for action was thus
lost. A conspiracy had been formed by 206 officers: one section was
for declaring Finland independent under the protection of Russia, the
other for limiting the power of the King. The King having violated
the constitution by undertaking a war of aggression without the consent
of the Diet, the conspirators made this a pretext for inducing the
army to disobey his orders. In the following year, 1789, the small
fleet of gunboats was destroyed at Svensksund by the Prince of Nassau.
In 1790 the King resolved on taking Wyborg ; and the Swedish fleet,
which had already fought an undecided battle at Hogland, proceeded to
the Gulf of Wyborg, where it was blockaded by the Russian fleet. The
Swedish fleet numbered 25 vessels of the line and 13 frigates, and the
Russian consisted of 32 vessels of the line, 8 two-deckers, and 11
frigates. After remaining in front of Wyborg for the space of a month
without taking it, the King found himself obliged to force a passage
through the Russian ships. This desperate resolution was executed
on the 3rd of July, and on the 4th and 5th of the same month the
Swedish fleet arrived at Sveaborg, consisting only of 14 vessels of the
line and 9 frigates. Some days after this event the Prince of Nassau
attacked the little Swedish fleet on the same spot as the preceding year,
but with a result altogether different, for the Russians lost 53 vessels and
4000 men. By the peace of Warela, signed in the same year, all matters
were sufiered to remain on the same basis as they had stood before the war.
The last war, which ended in the conquest of Finland, was commenced in
the month of February, 1808, by the Russians, who, while having no
pretext for taking the field, crossed the frontier without even a preliminary
declaration of hostilities. They were not wrong in considering the
opportunity favourable for the prosecution of their plans ; for, although
s 3
372 2.— Language. Sect. IV.
the last Swedish corps, crossing over the ice into Sweden, did not quit the
islands of Aland hefore the month of March, 1809, the fate of Finland had
already heen decided on the 3rd of May, 1808, by the surrender of Sveahorg.
The little army of Finland retired towards the north, resisting the enemy
wherever there was a chance of success, and it was even victorious in
some small engagements, as at Siikajoki, Revolax, Pieskkila, Lappo, and
Alavo. Being still pursued. General Adlercreutz decided to offer the
disastrous battle at Orawais, which was the last remarkable effort during
this war. During fourteen hours, 3500 Swedes and Finlanders fought
against 8500 Russians, and it was only owing to a reinforcement of
2000 men that the victory was at last decided in favour of the latter.
By the peace of Fredrikshamn, in September, 1809, Finland, together
with the islands of Aland, was ceded to Russia, and the river Torneao
now marks the boundary-line of • Sweden. In a manifesto addressed to
the Diet at Borga, the Emperor Alexander I. assured to the Finlanders
the maintenance of their religion and the integrity of their constitution,
as well as all the rights and privileges they had formerly enjoyed.
The constitution of Finland is similar to that of Sweden, and was intro-
duced by Gustavus III. in 1772 and 1789. The power of the sovereign
is very extensive, but personal liberty is protected by the laws, and the
consent of the Diet must be obtained for the imposition of new taxes,
and for the introduction of new criminal and civil laws. The Diet^
which is composed of four estates, is only convoked when the sovereign
judges it necessary to do so, and after that of Borgo, in 1809, no Diet
assembled before the year 1863.
The executive power is vested in the Governor-General, and in the
Imperial Senate at Helsingfors. State affairs, which have to be submitted
to the Emperor, pass through the chancery of the Secretary of State for
Finland, who resides at St. Petersburg. In 1811 the province of
Wyborg was reunited to Finland, and the population is now composed
of 1,749,000 Protestants, and of about 40,000 belonging to the Russian
orthodox Church.
2. — ^Language.
The Finnish language (Suomen Kieli) is entirely different from all the
other European languages, and belongs to the family called by philoloojists
the Ural-Altaic. Its peculiar characteristic is, that all derivation, declina-
tion, and conjugation, is effected by means of suffixes, and thus the root
invariably forms the beginning of every word. The conjunctions are not
very numerous, as their place in the connexion of the parts of a sentence is
frequently supplied by certain nominal or adverbial parts of speech. Of
prepositions there are hardly any whatever; a small number of post-
positiom, and the case-terminations, of which there are fifteen, discharge
their office. The language is rich in derived verbs ; subjoins to the cardinal
numbers the objects to which they refer, in the singular number ; recognises
no grammatical distinction of genders ; and has no articles. One pecu-
liarity which all the languages of Finnish source possess in common is the
vowel-harmony, i.e. the law that the vowel in the syllables of inflexion
^'m which, therefore, it often occurs that the consonants alone remain
Uigitized by ^^jkjkjwik.
Finkiid. 2. — Language. 373
unchanged) is entirely dependent on the vowels in the root. Thus for
example : —
Kola (fish) takes, in the inessive case, the form of Kcilassa (in the fish) ;
and
Kyld (village), the form Kylotssd (in the village).
The terminations, therefore, are twofold, either in a, or in &, If the
word has a, o, or w, in the root, the termination is a ; if it has y, a, or o, in
the root, the termination is «. If i or e occurs in the root, both termina-
tions are employed, but that in a is the most common.
Another peculiarity of the language is this, — that not one purely
Finnish word begins with two consonants.
The literature is still poor, and cannot well be otherwise, as, down to the
present day, the Finnish language is spoken only by the peasants and the
working classes, Swedish being the oflScial language, and that of the upper
classes. The oldest Finnish book, a Prayer-Book, was printed in the year
1544. The New Testament and Psalter, translated by Michael Agricola, the
Bishop of Abo, was published in 1648 ; the whole Bible did not appear till
1642, nearly a hundred years later, when it was published under the
auspices of the University of Abo, which had been founded in 1640.
From that time the language was only employed in works of a religious
character, until 1804, when Henric Gabriel Porthan, Professor at Abo,
directed the attention of the learned world generally, and his own country-
men in particular, to its richness and capability of further development.
After Finland had been united with Kussia in 1809, and the Finnish
nation was thrown more entirely upon its own resources, the language of
the country was to some extent restored. Since Elias Lonnret discovered the
rich treasures of Finnish popular I'oetry, which he took down just as he
heard it from the people during v/anderings through the whole country,
extending over many years ; and since ' Kalewala,' the national epic,
appeared in print in 1835, translated into German by the Academician
A. Schiefner, of St. Petersburg, it has been the endeavour of young Finland
to develop Finnish into a language of culture and refinement ; Swedish
having hitherto been the medium of all intellectual and literary activity.
At the present time there are two Professors at the University of
Helsingfors, who deliver their lectures in Finnish; and it has even
been attempted to translate Schiller and Shakspeare into it. An im-
portant epoch for the future of Finland was introduced by the imperial
manifesto of the 10th of February, 1865, which ordains that all persons
entering the public service in Finland must henceforth learn Finnish, in
order that it may become the official language of the Grand Duchy after
the year 1883.
The pronunciation of Finnish is easy. Every syllable is pronounced
just as it is spelt. Long vowels are written double. The accent is always
on the first syllable.
The Ajlfbjleet,
A a in Finnish has the sound of a in fax.
B b occurs only in foreign names.
Oj c „ „ and has the sound of a before e, i, y.'and
that of k before a, o, u, 5.
- * uigitized Dy vjv^Vv'viv^
374 2.— Language. Sect. IV.
D d has the Bound of d in day.
E e ,, e met
F f „ f fet.
G g* ia a nasal oonsonant; ooodtb only after n, and is piononnced like g in
strong.
H h has the sound of h in hunt ; at the end of syllables, often like the Celtic
gutteral kh, as pehko (bnsh), pronounced pekh-ko.
I i has the sound of e in me.
J i „ j hallelujah.
K k „ k keen.
LI „ 1 lay.
Mm „ m may.
K n „ n nay.
„ o not
p p ",..?. i»y-
Q q occurs only m foreign names.
B r has the sound of r in ray, and is always distinctly pronounced.
8s/ „ s say.
T t „ t tailor.
U u „ 00 root.
W w V V „ V vale.
X X occurs only in foreign names.
T y has the sound of the French u in sur.
Z z occurs only in foreign names.
A a has the sound of eain swear.
(u but.
i girl,
ea earl.
Diphthongs.
ie is a diphthong, pronounced as in fancier,
uo has the sound of the Italian uo in buona.
yo „ , nearly as eon in extraneous.
ai „ of ie in pie.
ei „ 1 uight.
01 „ oi spoil.
ui like oo-ee; a quick contraction as in the French Louis,
yi has tiiie sound of ui in tiie French puis, quickly oontnwted.
ai „ ie tie.
the German oi quickly contracted,
or „ eu in feuer (fire).
au „ the Italian au in audaoe.
eu like ky-oo, t i. neula (needle) is pronounced like nky-oolah, or nk-oolah.
in like ee-oo, f. i. kiuru (lark) is pronounced like keeooroo, quickly con-
tracted.
ou like 6-00, f. i. koura (gripe) is pronounced like kb-oorah, quickly con-
tracted.
ay like ou in mouth.
oy like the German sound ou, quickly contracted.
• The g has the nasal sound even when at the commencement of the following syllable, as f
Kunin-gat (king) is pronomiced Kooning<ug, the pure g or gay soand not being heard.
j
«i{
Finland.
8. — Words and Phrases,
375
3. — ^WOBDB AND PhBASEB.
The emperor
The empress
The crown prince
A grand duke
A prince
A count
A noble
The lord
Sir, or Mr.
The head of a Tillage
A fisherman
An employ^
A peasant
A policeman
A blacksmith
A drojky or sledge-)
driver )
Acoachman
A postilion
A waiter
A porter
A water-carrier
A foreigner
Chief dty
A town
A street
A cross-street
A squai-e
A market
A row of shops
A shop
A quay
A gateway
Outer door
An island
A garden
Afield
A cathedral
A church
Abelfiy
A cemetery
A monastery
A palace
An hotel
A restaurant
A house
A courtyard
A villa
A room
Ajo-
Keisari,
Keisarinna.
Perintd-ruktinas,
StMri-ruhtinas,
Ruhtinas,
KrewJt.
Aatelinen,
Merra,
Herra,
Kyldn wanAin.
KdUxmies.
Wirkamies.
TcUonpoika,
Polisi'Tnies.
Ravtaaeppa,
imoossikka,
mies,
Ajaja, renki,
HoUimies,
PostUjvoni {of the
Post Office),
Pasaari,
Portin toartia.
Vedenkulettaja,
Ulkomaalainen,
Pddkaupunti,
Kaupunti,
KcOu.
Syrjdhaiu,
Tori,
Kauppatari.
Puoti-riwi.
Pwti.
Eantakatu,
Porta.
JMo-^wi,
Saari.
Trtti-tarha,
Keto,
Tiwmio-kirkko,
Kirkko,
Kello-kastari,
Hautausmaa,
Luostari,
Palatsif howi,
Hotelli,
Pawintola,
Tah, kartano,
Piha.
ffuvHa.
Kammnrif siioja.
A chemist's
The parade-gi'ound
A barrack
A fort
A bridge
A river
A village
A road
A hill
The bath-house
A post station
The Exchange
English Ambassador <
English Consul
To write
Paper
Ink
Pen
Pencil
To eat
To drink
To breakfast
Breakfast
To dine
Dinner
To sup
Supper
A portion
Soup
An ice
Cabbage soup
Pie
A roast
Beef
Veal
Mutton
Cutlets
Beefsteak
Fish
Ham
A fowl
A hen
A chicken
A hare
A partridge
Hazel • grouse {Te-)
trao bonasia) j
Black cock
Capercailzie
Potatoes uigitizei
Apteekki,
Parati'kenttd,
Kasarmi.
Linna.
Siita.
Wirta, joki,
Kyld,
Tie,
Vuori,
Sauna,
HolUpaVika,
Pdrssi,
Ewjlannin lahettu
ids, '
Engkmnin Konsul,
Kirjoittaa.
Paperi,
Lakki,
Pannd, kynd,
Lyijys-pdtmd,
SySdd, ruokaella,
Juoda,
Murhinoida,
Murkina.
Syddd pdiwdllistd,
PdiwdUinen,
Ittastella,
niaUmen,
Portsia,
A la glace,
Kaaii'Suppi,
Piirakka,
Paisti,
Raawaan liha.
Wasikan liha,
Lampaan liha,
Kotlettia,
Mdrdnpaisiia,
Kala,
Pdystif kinkku,
Liniu,
Kana,
Kananpoika,
Idnis.
Metsdkana,
Teiri,
Metso,
376
3. — Words and Phrases.
Sect. IV.
PeflB
Jlemeitd,
Cucumbers
Kwkkuja,
Apples
Omenta,
Nuts
PahkindUa,
White bread
Walkea leipa.
Black bread
Musta leipd.
Pancakes
Pannun Kakkuja,
Cheese
JtMstoa,
Butter
Woita.
Eggs
Munia,
Ci-eam
PaSaiista, Taaktta.
Milk
Maitoa.
Wine
Wimid.
Pears
Perunoita,
Com bi-andy
Wimaa.
Beer
Olutta.
Coffee
Kakoea,
Tea
Teeta.
Sugar
Sokeria.
Water
Wettd.
A glass of water
LasUlinen weUd.
Hot water
Kxehwjoata wettd.
Cold water
Kylmdd wettd.
Salt
Suolaa.
Pepper
Pippuria,
Vinegar
itikkdd.
Mustard
Smappia,
A trunk
Arkku, Eirstu,
Portmanteau
Kapsakki,
Travelling-bag
Matka-pussi,
Box or case
\ Wakka, rasia, laa-
i tikko.
A tea-urn
A tea-pot
Tee-kannu,
A pail
impart, kippa.
A bottle
Puteli,
A glass
Jnomct-lasi,
A cup
Kuppi,
A wine-glass
Ryyppy-lasi.
A plate
A knife
Talrekki, lautcmen,
Weitsi.
A fork
Kahweli,
A spoon
Lusikka.
A table
Pdytd,
Abed
Sdnky.
A stove
Uuni,
Fire
Tulta, waikeaa.
A light
KynUild.
A napkin
Salwetti.
A duster
Riepu.
A hat
A fur cloak
A pair of boots
A bath
A dressing-gown
A boat
A carriage
A cart
Awheel
The pole
A cord
A horse
Horses
Hay
Straw
A book
A whip
A snow-storm
Ice
Half
A quarter
Great
Little
Beautiful
Old
New
Yes
No
Good, very well
Not good, not well 4
Bring
For me
More
Less
That
Enough
Not enough
Too long
Give
Give me
Give us
Now
It cannot be done
Do better
Father
Mother
Brother
Sister
ffattu,
Twkki,
Kylpy,
To-takki, halatti.
Wene.
Waunu,
Kdrritj rattaat.
PyGrd,
Aisa.
Nuora,
Hevoonen,
Jfewosia,
ffeinid,
Olkia.
Kirja,
Piiska.
TuiskUf Pyry,
Jdd,
Puoli.
Neljdnnes,
Suuri, iso,
Pienif wdhd,
Kaunis, ihana.
Wanha.
Uusi, j
Niin, I
M,
Oikeen, hywdstt,
Wddrin, pahastiy j
htumosti, * I
Tuokaa.
Minulle.
Enemmdn,
Wdhemmdn,
Tama,
Kylld, piisaa,
Eipiisaa wield,
Aiwan kauwan,
Anna.
Anna minvUe,
Anna meille,
Nyt,
Sitd ei woi tehdd.
''ee paremmm,
sd.
Afti, emo.
Welt,
Sisa»\
f
Digitized by VjOOQIC
Finland.
3. — Words and Phrases.
377
Dialogues. — Kanssa-puheita.
Good day.
Good night.
Good bye.
If you please.
Thank you.
Here.
Who is there?
Here, here, sir.
Come here.
Hollo! here.
I oome directly.
I hear and obey.
Directly.
Let us go (on foot).
Let us go (in a carriage).
Go on.
Drive gently.
Never mind, or nothing.
Hurry quick.
Diive faster.
Have a care.
Give room, give place.
To the right.
To the left.
Go further on,
Di-ive home.
Stop.
Tell me.
What is it?
How do they call it ?
What does it cost ?
How much the arshin ?
How much the pound ?
It is dear.
It is much.
It is cheap.
Can you give change ?
Ditto.
I don't know.
Not wanted.
I won't have.
Is it ready ?
Set the tea-urn.
Give us a spoon.
What is to be done ?
What's o'clock ?
In how many hours?
Is it possible ?
Where is the inn ?
How many versts ?
Hyvoaa pdiwad,
Hyvoaa ydtd.
Jadkda hywdsti.
Olkaa nim hywa.
FcUjon kiitosta,
Tassd,
Kukasielldf
Tdnne, tanne herra,
Tvie tdnne.
Hoi! kuule.
Mind tulen paikalla.
Mind noudatan kdakydnne.
FaikaUa, heti,
Astukaamme, menkddmme.
Zdhtekddmme, ajakaamme,
Mene tiehesi.
HUjaa,
Ei nUtddn,
J(mdu pian.
Mene todlemmin.
Kawata,
Fois tieltd ; tie auki,
Oikeaan.
Wasempaan,
Fois etemmdksi,
Kotia Aja,
Seisata,
Sanokaa minulle,
Mikd se ? .
Miksi sitd kutsutaan ?
Faljonko maksaa f Mikd hinta ?
Faljonko arsinaUa ?
Faljonko naulalta ?
8e on kallis,
Se onpaljon.
Se on hitokeata,
Woitteko waihtaa rahaa 9
Onko teilld takaisin antaa ?
En tiedd.
Ei huoli.
En huoli,
Onko se walmis ?
Walmista samowari.
Anna meille lusikka,
Mitdstehdd?
Mones tuntif
Monessako tunnissa f or monenko tunnin
perdstdf
Onko se mahdollista f
Missd kestkiewarii
Montako loirstaa 9 r^r\r\rf]c>
Digitized by V^iJO V Iv^
378
3. — Words and Phrases.
Sect. IV.
Where is the landlord ?
I will pass the night here.
When do 70a start?
To^y.
To-morrow.
In an hoar.*
It is time to he off.
Which is the way to — ^?
Pray show me the way.
Where is the fisherman ?
What kind of a road is it ?
Are the hoi'ses to ?
What is to pay for them ?
Drink money.
I will give you drink money.
I will not give you drink money.
What station is it ?
How long do we slop ?
Where is the refreshment-room ?
Where is the W. C. ?
Where is the telegraph-office ?
Where is the luggage ?
Missd isantd 9
Mind tahdon olla tdssd yotd,
MilUnnka U nousette ?
Tdndpdnd,
ffuomenna,
I\mnin perdstd,
Aika on Idhted.
^Mistd tie menee -aan, -een, "On, •oon
-uun, -yyn, -dan, -ddn,
Olkaa nuA hywdy ndyttdkdd minuUe
tie,
Missd kalamies ?
Mikd tie tdmdonf
Owatho hewoset waljaissa ?
Paijonko kyytiraha tekee ?
Juomarahaa.
Mind annan juomarahaa.
Mind en arma juomarahaa,
Mikd hollipaikka tdmd on f
Montako minuttia viiwymme tdssaf
Missd ratointo-huone ?
Missd ihmisten ulko-huone ?
Missd telegrafi^aitos ?
Missd tawarat i
Names of the Months, Days of the Week, etc.
Kuukausien nimet.
Wiikonpaiwattj. n, e.
January
Tammikuu.
Wednesday
Keskiwiikko.
February
Jlelmikuu.
Thursday
Torstai,
March
Maaliskuu,
Friday
Perjantai,
April
Huhtikuu,
Saturday
May
Toukokm,
Sunday
Sunnuntai,
June
Kesdkuu.
Winter
Talwi,
July
Heindkim,
Summer
Kesd, suwi.
August
Elokm,
A year
Wuosi.
September
Syyskuu,
A month
Kuukausi,
October
Lokakuu,
A week
Wiikko,
November
Marraskuu.
A day
Pdivcd,
December
Joulukuu,
An hour
Tunti,
Monday
Maanantai,
Half an hour
Pmlituntia,
Tuesday
Tiistai,
The Ndmerals.— Luwut.
one, ykai.
seven, seitsemdn.
two, kaksi.
eight, kahdeksan.
three, kolme.
nine, yhdeksdn.
four, neljd.
ten, kymmenen.
five, viisi.
eleven, yksi-toista.
six, kuusi.
twelve,' kaksi'toista.
* Ex. gr. Haminoan, to Fredrikshamn ; Helsinktm, to Helsingfore; Kuopioon, to Knopio;
Ouluun, to Uleaborg; Jywaskylaa«, to Jywiiskyla, &c. The harmony of the vowels alwa."
observed, except in foreign names— Londonim, Brysselim, to London, to Brussels, where tin b
the rule.
Digitized Dy vjv^v^v iv^
Finland.
4.^ — Measures^ Weights^ and Coins.
379
And so on, always adding toista
each number up to
twenty, kdksi^ymmenta,
twenty-one, kaksi-kymmentd-yksi.
twenty-two, kaksx-kymmenta-kaksi.
And so on, always adding the unit
to one hundred, as
thirty, kolme-kymmentd.
forty, nelja-kymmentd.
fifty, iDiisi'kymmenta.
siity, kuus^kymmentd.
to
up
seventy, seitseman-kymmentd,
eighty, kahdeksan-kymmentd.
ninety, yhdeksdn-kymmentd.
one hundred, sata,
two hundred, kaksi sataa.
three hundred, kolme sataa, etc.
one thousand, tuhatta.
two thousand, kaksi tuhatta.
three thousand, etc., kolme tuhatta,
j. n. e.
4.— Measubbs, Weights, and Coins.
Measures of LENaTH.— Pituuden Mitat.
1 yard = 3-08 Finnish (Joot=) jalkaa, 1 jalka = 12 tuumaa
(inches).
1 tuuma = 12 linjaa.
6 ^kaa = 1 sylta.
2 jalkaa = 1 kyynara.
1 kyynara = 4 waaksaa eli korttelia.
1 waaksa = 6 tuumaa.
1 penikulma =10 wirstaa.
1 wireta =600sylt^.
Measures op Capacitt.— Awaruuden Mitat.
1 karmu Finnish
1 kannu
1 tuoppi
1 korttoli
1 tynnyri
1 tynnyri
1 kappa
1 nelikko
= 0-576 gallons English.
= 2 tuoppia.
= 4 korttelia.
= 4jumfrua.
Dry Measure.— Kuiwatawarain Mitta.
= 4-536 bushels.
= 30 kappaa.
= 2-^ kBjmua.
= 7^ kappaa.
Weights. — Paino-mitta.
1 pound avoirdupois
1 naula
1 luoti
20 naulaa (lb.)
20 leiwiska (1. lb.)
1 laiwan lasti
= 1*067 lbs. (naulaa) Finnish avoirdupois.
= 32 luotia.
= 4 kintinia.
= 1 n. lb.) leiwiskaa.
= 1 (s. lb.) sippunta.
= 228 1. lb. (leiwiskaa).
Coinage.
Finland having lately obtained an independent currency, the people calculate in
marks and pennies, of which 100 to the mark. One mark is equal to 25 copecks ;
consequently, 4 marks are equal to 1 Silver ruble ; but when changing Russian paper
money into Finnish marks at the present exchange, only 3 marks and 45 pennies will
be allowed. In August^ 1866, the exchange was so low as 2 marks 80 pennies per
Russian ruble. The traveller will have no difficulty in ascertaining the current
exchange by merely refening to any of the public newspapers kept on board the
steamei-s. At the rates published there, Mr. Heiraberger, agent, at Helsingfors, for
the Scandia Insurance Company, will be happy to exchange amy amount? vjw^i^
380 b.-Stecmbaats, G.—Travdling. Sect. IV.
6. — Steamboats.
The most convenient and agreeable mode of visiting Finland is by sea.
There are now four excellent and commodious steamships plying r^ularly
during the summer months between St. Petersburg and Stockholm, by one
of wMch the tourist (after having seen to his passport) should secure a
passage as soon as possible. These vessels at present leave either end of
the line, that is to say St. Petersburg and Stockhohn, every l}ue8day and
Friday morning ; the boat from St. Petersburg calls and remains the first
night at Wyborg, the second at Helsingfors (there crossing the boat from
Stockholm), the third at Abo, and Stockholm on the 4th. The boat
from Stockholm calls and remains the first night at Abo, the second at
Helsingfors (there crossing the St. Petersburg boat), the third at Wyborg,
and reaches St. Petersburg on the 4th. The voyage is thus completed
in four days, with only about 50 hours of actual travelling, during which
time the vessel winds her intricate and tortuous but picturesque course
amongst the innumerable islands on the Finnish coast. Besides the above,
there are two steamers plying weekly between Helsingfors and St. Peters-
burg, one via Reval, and the other vtd Fredrikshamn, Wyborg, &c There
is ^so a fine line of steamers plying regularly between St. Petersburg,
Helsingfors, Abo, Bjorneborg, and up the GtuU of Bothnia to Uleaborg
and Tomea. •
6. — TBAVKLLiNa — Posting, Mail Coaches, etc.
Between May and October, that is to say as long as the sea is open, the
best mode of reaching St. Petersburg from Stockholm is by steamer. The .
scenery of the coast, which is far more interesting than that inland, is seen i
to greater advantage, and with half the trouble and expense. Moreover, '
with the exception of the road between Wyborg and St. Petersburg, there
are no public conveyances, not even between Abo and Helsingfors, the
old and modem capitals of Finland. Between Wyborg and St. Petei-sburg
there is sometimes a coach, but the days of departure cannot by any^
means be relied on. The best, at least the most comfortable, mode of
journeying by land, is in a private carriage ; and if the tourist has not the
good fortune to possess one, he had better supply himself with one at
Stockholm ; a travelling caliche, with harness complete, may be purchased
there for about 201. At Abo, being at the mercy of the landlord, he will
pay more ; moreover, as the stock of carriages there consists of patched-up
vehicles which have been purchased from travellers returning from Eussia,
the chances are that the tourist will, before he reaches Helsingfors, find
himself brought to a stand-still on the road-side, by a regular break-down
of his crazy machine. Carrioles, similar to those used in Norway and
Sweden, are the carriages most generally in use in Finland, and by far the
best adapted for speed, particularly where the road is sandy, which is the
case, more or less, nearly all the way from Abo to Helsingfors, and also
along the shore of the Gulf of Bothnia to Bjorneborg, and they far excel j
vehicles of any other construction for whirling down hill at full gallop, — i
the only plan of descending the sharp pitches in the road with which the
Uigitized Dy vjv^'V^V iv^
Finland. 6. — TraveUing : Posting^ Mail-Goaehes, dc. 381
Finnisli horses appear to be acquainted. Besides the carriole there is
another species of vehicle, called a hibitka^ a long narrow cart without
springs, and covered with a kind of leather hood, extending over about
one-half of the carriage. The bottom of the kibitka is usually provided
with a feather-bed, or a thick covering of hay or straw, and on this the
traveller reclines at full length. As to repose, it is doubtful whether any
will be obtained in such a vehicle ; in addition to which, the traveller sees
nothing whatever of the country through which he passes. This kibitka is
an introduction from Russia ; the really national carriage of the Finlander
is a machine called a hondhara, but the traveller should reflect seriously
before he submits his body to the indescribable agonies created by the cart
so called, unless, indeed, it is his intention to travel in the telega when he
reaches Russia ; in this case it will be well for him to accustom his bones
and muscles to the dislocations which he will be subjected to in the
hondkara, for, though these two vehicles are equally rough, the roads in
Fialand are far superior to those in Russia. This machine, which has no
springs, is nothing more than an oblong kind of box without a back, placed
on an axle-tree and two wheels, and a board is nailed or tied to the sides
like the seat of a taxed cart ; on this bench the traveller and the postilion
are seated, and there is no slight difiBculty in keeping an equilibrium,
while on bad parts of the road it is sometimes necessary to cling firmly to
it with both hands. Scarcely, too, has the tourist got a little accustomed
to the sway and play of this horrid cart, when he finds himself at a post
station, where he is obliged, to turn out and get into another bondkara, the
bench of which is perhaps tied at a different angle from the last. The
roads, however, with the exception of one or two sandy stages, are excellent
from Abo to within fifty miles of St. Petersburg, and ten miles an hour
may be accomplished ; but it will take a great deal of patience, and all the
traveller's muscle and nerve, to get over these last fifty miles. Verst-posts
are erected along the roads, and the distance to each town is inscribed on
them. In winter there is a regular road across the Gulf of Bothnia to
Sweden; and also between Helsiugfors and Revel. In March, 1809,
Barclay de Tolly crossed over with a division of the Russian army from
Wasa to Umea in Sweden.
One great advantage in Finland is that the traveller is not obliged to send
on a courier. Post-horses, supplied by the neighbouring farmers, are always
in readiness at the stations ; and so far from there being any delay, half
a dozen Finlanders will frequently be found quarrelling for the honour
of earning copecks, and displaying their respective ponies to the best
advantage, in order to procure a selection in their favour ; and, generally
speaking, by the time the traveller has written his name, &c., in the dag^
hok, and paid the boy who takes back the horses, everything will be found
in readiness for a fresh start.
The price of post-horses is much lower than either in Norway or Sweden,
being 2 silver copecks for each horse per verst. But on quitting Abo.
Helsingfors, Lovisa, Frederickshamn, and Wyborg, it is 4 silver copecks
per verst for each horse for the first stage. The boy or man who drives
is amply satisfied with about 6 or 7 copecks per post, which may be taken
on the average at about 15 versts. Travelling with two horses, the entire
expense does not exceed M, per English mile. Between Wyborg and
St, Petersburg the expense is somewhat greater, as the traveller has to pay
382 G.-^TraveUing. T. -^General View of Finland. Sect. IV-
ft
li silver ruble for a padarojna, and the drivers expect more in the
neighbourhood of the capital ; but even then the expense of actual travelling
throughout the whole extent of Finland will not, on the average, exceed
6d, per English mile.
The regular charge for the operation of " smearing," as it is pronounced
(though somewhat differently spelt), is 6 copecks, and travellers should
on no account omit having it carefully done under their own inspection
every morning before starting. The harness is so made as never to be
detached from the carriage when the horses are changed. The traces are
always of rope, as is not unfrequently the greater portion of the rest of the
tackle ; the reins are not crossed, as in England, but each horse is harnessed
quite distinct from his fellow, and on reaching the station the ponies
slip out of their trappings, and another pair, without even a bridle or
halter, are brought out of the stable to take their places. This independent
style of " putting to" is at first somewhat puzzling, particularly when the
road is hilly, or runs along. the verge of a precipice, or the bank of a
mountain stream. It is surprising, however, how soon one gets accustomed
to the random travelling over the wild countries of the north, where the
roads are for the most part without fence or barrier of any kind, and where,
in going down hill, it is absolutely impossible to stop. A low monotonous
whistle, on reaching the top of a steep descent, will make the horses go
slowly and carefully until they feel the carriage begin to press heavily
upon them, and then away they go, through sand and stones, whirling
round comers like the wind, until they reach the level ground, or, if the
road ascends again, they continue their headlong speed to the summit of
the next hill. It is quite useless to pull, as the bits are of the lightest
description, and their mouths seem quite insensible to all the driver's
efiforts. They never stumble, and will generally gallop for versts without
betraying any symptoms of distress. The posting being so economical, it
will be no very great expense to pay the boys well, and twopence per stage
will be considered very handsome : some persons pay only one penny.
As soon as the traveller arrives at a station, he should call lustily for horses
(in Swedish, hSstar), adding as many words in that language signifying
"make haste,** as he can — thus, strax, snarty and skynda^ all meaning
the same thing, will be found of the greatest possible utility. The tourist
must then march into the post-house, and ask for the dag-bok, in which
every traveller must write his name, the number of horses he wants,
whence he comes, whither he is going, and what, if any, complaints he has
to make : all the columns are headed with the requisite explanations in
Eussian. Save when posting in one's own carriage, it will not be possible
to keep pace with persons travelling in carrioles.
7. — Genebal View op Finland.
The sea-coast of Finland presents throughout its entire extent the same
succession of fiords and rocky headlands which encircle the whole seaward
frontier of Sweden and Norway ;. but the dimensions of the fiords of
Finland are far more limited than those to the west of the Gulf of Bothnia,
seldom exceeding a few miles in extent, althouj^h their mouths contain an
equal number of islands ; some of which, as the isles of Sweaborgr, have
been converted into fortresses of great strength. The interior of Finland
Finland. l.^peneral View of Finland. 383
is intersected and broken up by a vast number of inland lakes, shootinp;
out their winding arms and branches in all directions ; which, while they
offer the greatest facilities for internal navigation, render land travelhng
circuitous and difiBcult. Many of the high roads pass over islands on these
lakes, the natural strength of whose situation has been taken advantage of
to cover them with batteries.
There is a most striking difiference between the inhabitants of the
Finnish provinces to the west and those to the east of Wyborg, more
recently severed from Sweden, whose customs and manners, and even
language, they had almost universally adopted. The Finlanders along the
coast of the Gulf of Bothnia scarcely present any marked distinction from
the people on the opposite shore of the Baltic ; but the same good-humoured
faces, and apparent anxiety to please, diminish in a very perceptible ratio
as you advance further inland. Nearly the same dress, both of men and
women, and the readiness with which they all speak Swedish, make the
traveller almost forget that he is in a land that owns the sovereignty of
the Tsar. Beyond Wyborg the traveller is suddenly thrown among
a strange people : beards become almost universal, from the post-master to
the driver — sheepskins are worn, and low-crowned hats with a profusion
of buckles; the loose trowsers are tucked into the boots. Swedish is
scarcely understood, and dollars and skillings are no longer current. The
road becomes level, and wide plains spread their monotonous extent on all
sides ; the villages, formed of a long straight row of wooden cottages,
lining the road on either side with their gable-ends, are all built exactly
alike, and all still and silent, with scarce a living being to be seen, except
a few melancholy-looking children and pigs — the latter certainly curiosities
in their way, attenuated, half-starved looking animals, with sharp-pointed
snouts.
The living in Finland is very tolerable, though certainly by no means
luxurious : capercailzie, black-cock, hazel-grouse, and all sorts of fish are
to be had in abundance during eight months of the year. When game is
not in season, the tourist is strongly recommended to try the Finnish veal,
which is most excellent, and equal to any fed in England ; the beef, on the
other hand, is miserable, lean, and tasteless.
Good Bavarian beer is to be had throughout the country.
Digitized by VjOOQLC
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROUTE.
EOUTE 55.
STOCKHOLM TO WTBOKG, BY ABO AND
HELBINQFOBS.
Finland may be reached from Lnbeck
by steamer onoe a week to Heldngfors.
Faie 30 is. The most interesting route
is by Gottenbnrg, and thence to Stock-
holm, by rail or canal. Passports must
be vis^d by Bussian consul at Stock-
holm before applying for a passage.
Fare to Helsingfors 13 rubles, not
inclusive of living. Steamers leave
Stockholm every Tuesday morning for
Abo, Helsingfors, Wyborg, apd St
Petersburg, passing round the Aland
island^ at noon.
1. Aland islands at the entrance of
the Gulfs of Bothnia and Finland. The
inhabitants (16,000) aro principally
sailors. The ruins of the fortress of
Bomarsund, destroyed by an Anglo-
French squadron in 1854, aro situated
on the largest island of the group. They
will not be seen from the steamer.
2. Ibo.
The town of Abo is reached at about
7 P.M. {Inn : The Society's House, on
the Quay, the best.)
On arriving off the AurajoM, the Abo
river, large vessels remain there and
discharge their cargoes. The steamer,
drawing but little water, proceeds at
once to the town. On the hill near
tho entrance of the river, which is de-
fended by the fort of Abohus, now a
prison, is the village of Boxholm, with
its red 4 painted houses, principally ia-
habited by tradesmen and fishermen.
The first view of Abo (pronounced
Obo) is fine: its old castle stands
full beforo you, with the remnant
of its massive tower, that braved for
centuries the assaults of time and the
elements, while on the height beyond
is seen the &r-famed observatory, now
used as a navigation school. Entering
the river on which A.bo is built, the
steamer anchors close to the Society's
House, and the deck is soon crowded
with customs officers, by whom the
luggage of the passengers is searched.
The passports are examined.
The streets of Abo appear at first
enormously wide, though they by no
means exceed the usual dimensions of
Bussian towns; but the low style of
buUduig, almost universal in this town»
and the number of sites at present un-
occupied by houses, joioed to the soli-
tary appearance of its almost deserted
thoroughfares, give an air of desolation
to the whole place. The glory of Abo
has indeed departed. It had once a
flourishing port and a well-attended
university — ^its trade is now inconsider-
able, and its university is removed to
Helsingfors, the capital of Finland. A
destructive fire, the ravages of which
are even now not fully repaired, gave
the final blow to its already sinMng
fortunes.
This fearful conflagration, which took
place 4 Sept. 1827, consumed nearly
the whole city, iacludrng the univer-
sity and its valuable library, and
other public buildings. The fire raged
for two whole days, and was not ex-
tinguished until 786 houses, out of
1100, were a mass of blackened ruins.
When the town was rebuilt, the public
edifices, as well as the houses, were
placed at a considerable distance
from each other, and the town now
covers as much ground as Dresden,
886
Boute 55. — Jho — HeUing/ors.
Sect. IV.
^hougli its inhabitants do not exceed
20,000. Abo is the most ancient city
in Finland ; its history being oo-existent
with the reign of Eric the Sieiint, that is
from 1157-1160, the period at which
Christianity was first introduced into
this wild and cold region. The castle
is as ancient as the town, and arrested
more than once the onward march of
the Bussian armies. It was in the
dungeons of this building that Eric
XIY. was imprisoned previous to his
death, which took place some time
afterwards at Orbyhus. The castle is
now used as a prison, and is garrisoned
by half a battalion of infantry.
The Cathedral is also highly inte-
resting, not however on acoount of its
external appearance, which is coarse and
heavy, but for the architectural struc-
ture of its interior, which is of three
epochs. It is more particularly worthy
of interest from its having been the cradle
of Christianity in Fii3and--here the
first episcopal chair was instituted, and
for centuries the first families were
buried. The vaults of the chapels are
filled with their remains, and some of
the monuments are not unworthy of
attention. On one of them is an epitaph
to Catharina Monsdotter, a girl taken
from the ranks of the people by Eric
XIV., and who, after having worn the
Swedish diadem, returned to Finland
and died in obscurity, while her royal
husband ended his days in a prison. In
the same chapel, and at the end of it, are
two statues in white marble, the size
of life, standing on a sarcophagus, sup-
ported by colunms of black marble ; these
are the wealthy and powerful Clas Tott,
grandson of Eric XIV., and his wife.
The latter seems to have had a wish to
perpetuate her admiration for a hand-
some toilette, for she is decked out
with necklace and bracelets as if for
a wedding. In a crypt under this
monument lie the remains of Queen
Christina of Sweden. In another
chapel is the monument of Stalhandsk,
one of the generals, and, we may add,
heroes, of the Thirty Years* War.
There is also a monument to Cock-
bum, a Scotchman, who served in the
wars of Charles XII. The fire of
1827 completely gutted this church, and
not only were the altar and organ de-
stroyed, but even the bells were melted
by the devouring element. Subscrip-
tions have restored the cathedral, and a
patriotic Finlander, a baker by trade,
who had amassed about 2500Z. in his
business, and was without any near re-
lative, left that sum to purchase an organ
at his death. Effect was given to his
wishes, and an organ of 5000 pipes, the
largest in the North, now raises its deco-
rated and painted head nearly to the roof
of the buHding. The church contains
several frescoes by Ekman, a Finlander.
On the top of the granite steps whicli
lead up to the cathedral, is an old
rusty ring, to which offenders used to
be attached and made to do penance.
A statue of Professor Porthan stands
near the cathedral. There is also a
granite tombstone over his grave in
the ch.-yard.
Gustavus Adolphus founded an aca-
demy here in 1630, which Christina
subsequently elevated into a university.
Abo is distinguished by a treaty, being
the spot on which the relations between
Bussia and Sweden were settled in 174o.
Here, too, Alexander and Bemadotte
concluded that treaty which arrayed
Sweden against France.
3. HEi^maFOBS.
The steamer will reach Helsingfora
the day on which it leaves Abo, after
passing through most singular and inte-
resting coast scenery ; it may, however,
be summed up in three words, sea,
granite, firs, — ^yet these are so con-
stantly varied in their position and cir-
cums^nces that the effect cannot be said
to be monotpnous. The sea, in some in-
stances, is as still as an inland lake, at
others it may be heard beating furiously
against the granite rocks to seaward ;
few vessels are visible, and those are
principally very small craft, carrying
wood or fish from the islands to the
main land. The steamer passes close
to the ruins of the forts at Hango Head.
The approach to Helsingfors by
water is exceedingly striking. The har-
bour is very extensive and well protecteil ^
by the works and fortress of SuoeaJborg'-
these are built on 7 islands, and {mm
the extent of the fortifications, and ik
Finland.
Boute 65. — Swedborg—HeUingfors.
887
strength of their position, have been
teimed the Gibraltar of the North. The
original fortress was bnilt by Ck>unt
ElSenswerd, High-Admiial of Sweden,
whose dying request was that he should
be buried there ; on his monument is
the following inscription : — ^^ On this
spot, and surrounded by his own work,
lepose the remains of the Count Au-
gnste Ehrenswerd/* — ^This fortress was
the last rampart of Sweden against the
Russians, and the rallying point of her
troops and fleet. On me 6th of March,
1808, it was besieged by the Russians,
and on the 6th of April Adm. Gron-
stedt, who defended the place with
6000 men and 2 frigates, concluded an
ftrmistioe on condition that he would
deliver up the fortress, with its garrison,
its ships, and its plentiful munitions of
war, provided he had not received by
the 3rd of May a reinforcement of at
least 5 ships-of-the-line ; and as the
reinforcement never arrived, the fortress
was delivered to Gen. Suchtelen on the
day stipulated. The secret motives of
Adm. Cronstedfs conduct have never
been satisfactorily explained. It has
been afiBrmed on the one hand that
the officers had become demoralised in
courage by the sight of the sulferings
to which their fannlies were exposed, as
well as by the news of the desperate con-
dition of Finland and Sweden which
Suchtelen took good care to forward to
them ; on the other hand, Adm. Cron-
stedt is directly accused of having been
bribed by the Russians. The latter
supposition has never been proved.
After the capitulation Adm. Oronstedt
retired to a small estate which he had
always possessed, and where he lived
honoured and esteemed bv his neigh-
bours until his death, whidfi took place
about 10 years later. He never entered
the service of Russia, nor did he receive
any marks of Imperial approval ; and
he died without leaving any fortune.
Sweaborg was bombarded by an Anglo-
French squadron in August, 1855.
It is not alwavs that a traveller is per-
mitted to visit the Fortress of Sweaborg
without previously having obtained a
ticket from the Police-office or the Go-
vernor-General. The forts are, how-
ever, well worth seeing, and 2 diminu-
i^uMMH-1868.
tive steamers leave every half-hour
alternately from the town and forts,
the fare l)eing 10 oopeks.
These steamers can be hired at the
rate of 3 rubles per hour by visitors
desirous of making an excursion
amongst the islands in the neighbour-
hood of Helsingfbrs, in the so-called
"Skargfixd."
Helsingfobs.— Ho^ : The Society
House, in the Great Square, and
Klein^'s Hotel, both facing the har-
bour and dose to the landing-place.
The former has been rebuilt and mo*
demised, and is preferable. The best
room is 1 ruble per diem.
f earners, — Every Sunday morning
bo and Stockholm, to Wyborg and
St. Petersburg ; every Monday morning
to Reval and St. Petersburg ; every
Tuesday morning to Wyborg and St.
Petersburg; every Thursday morning
to Wyborg and St. Petersburg, to Abo
and Stockholm. Once a week to Abo,
Bjormborg, Wasa, and Uleaborg, by
Bothnian steamers.
The town of Helsingfors is, his-
torically speaking, comparatively of
modem creation, having oeen founded
by Gustavus Wasa in we 16th centy. :
its name came from a colony of the
province of Helsingland, wmch had
been established in the neighbourhood
for several centuries. In 1639, how-
ever, the town changed its site, and the
inhabitants moved their wooden houses
nearer the sea-shore ; and on the spot
where Helsingfors now stands. War,
plague, famine, and fire ravaged it,
each in its tum, and the end of a cen-
tury found it with a population of only
5000 souls ; at the present moment it
numbers 25,000, exclusive of the garri-
son. The Russians have greatly aug-
mented and improved Helsingfors since
it came into their possession, more
particularly since the year 1819, when
it beoEune the capital of Finland: the
removal to it of the Universi^ of Abo,
and the Senate, after the conflagration
of that town in 1827, also materially
increased its importance. The streets
are long, large, and laid out at right
T
S88
XhnUe 55. — Tavastdius.
Sect. IV.
angles, u in most Boasiaji towns. Two
Bides of the principal sqnare ore ocon-
pied by the Senate-house and Univer-
sity respectively; these are two very
handsome buildings, and on the eastern
side is a fine chnrch, which, from its
position and size, is a very splendid
object. The houses are large and regu-
lar, and a handsome granite quay ex-
tends along the water in front of the
town. Amongst the objects worthy of
attention is the SenaU-hduw. The cham-
bers in which the various branches of
the assembly meet for the ordinary
purfKMes of business are simple, and
furnished in good taste. The Icurge
hall, intended for the meeting of the
senate on great occasions, contains a
splendid throne for the emperor, who
twice presided in person; it is hung
with portraits of former governors of
Finland. The remains of the LSbrarg,
saved from the fire of Abo, is at present
preserved in this building. It consists
of about 100,000 volumes. An exten-
sive collection of historical documents,
relating to the history of Finland, un-
fortunately fell a prey to the fiames.
In the Tjniversity, which has 6 facul-
ties and 31 professors, may be seen the
«st which incorporated the University of
Abo ; it is signed by the illustrious Axel
Oxenstiema, his brother Gabriel, and
MarshalJacques de la Gardie. This was
the oldest university in Russia, having
been founded by Christina in 1630.
Printing was not introduced into Fin-
land until 1641, 11 years after the uni-
versity was established, when Wald, a
Swedish printer, made a contract with
the rector, and established himself at
Abo. His salary was 102. a year, besides
which he received 18(2. a sheet : and so
small was his set of types, that he could
only set up half a sheet at a time. The
library, at this period, contained 21
volumes and a globe. There are seve-
ral agreeable walks in the neighbour-
hood of Helsingfors; amongst them
may be cited that to the forests of
Standsvik, the solitary coast near Mai-
land, and the verdant gardens of
Traeskenda, belonging to Mrs. Ea-
The Mweum of the University con-
tains an extensive collection of minerals,
and objects of natural history: it is
particularly rich in specimens of the
zoology of Finland.
The New Chtirch is in the form of a
Greek cross : each side is terminated
by a handsome portico of Oorintiiian
columns, and a dome rises in the centre.
It stands cm a large mass of granite,
and may be seen some miles from the
town.
The Assembly-Booms on the Esplar
nade, the barracks, and hospitals ajre
fine buildings. It will be remarked
that in Helfongfors the native granite
rock frequently forms the foundation
of these extensive edifices.
The Botanical Garderiy about a mile
from the town, is used as a public
promenade, and commands a view of
the surrounding country.
A fine view of the town naay also be
obtained from the Ohserva;tory, which
stands on an eminence. It is fitted
up with requisite instruments, and a
series of important magnetic and astro-
nomical experiments are being carried
out in it. I
A hoithing-house, and an establish- ^
ment for the manufacture of mineral i
waters, have been built near the town, j
A magnificent and beautifully deco-
rated theatre was completed in 1866,
built after the model of the Dresden
Opera House, in which performances
are conducted in the Swedish language
four times a week.
On entering the harbour of Helsing-
fors the traveller will observe an ele-
gant and colossal Gree^ CAurd^ with
gilded spire, situated on an impomng
eminence close to the sea. The paint-
ing in the interior of this church is
very good, and well worthy of a visit.
4. Tavastehus. — ^A rly. imites Hel-
singfors with the town of Tavastehus,
80 m. distant in the interior of the
country. Fare 3 rubles. Tavastehus
is well worth visiting in smnmer time,
as it is most picturesquely situated, and
gives a good idea of Finnish lake- |
scenery. Small government steamboats
go once or twice a week &om Tavastehus
up the river and lakes to Tammer-
Fmland. Bouie 55. — Borg& — Lovha — Ahorrfors.
889
fors, the Mancheeter of Finland, founded
1779, where a good number of English-
men aie employed in ootton-spinning.
The waterfieJls of Tammerfors, by which
some of the cotton and flax-mills are
worked, are very grand. Very good
posting hence into the interior. The
price of post-horses is 2^ copeks per
verst, and 4 copeks on leaving towns.
5. BoBol. — Travellers may proceed
from Helsin^ors to Wyborg by an
excellent road along the coast, passing
through the towns of Borgo, Lovisa,
Hogfors, and Fredrikshamn.
&rgo is a town of 3000 Inhab., and
the seat of a bishopric. It is of con-
siderable historical celebrity, having
been the place of meeting of the Diet
of Fmland in 1809.
The poet Buneberg resides here.
Hevmksdat, 15 v.
8il>b0y 15^.
Norr Vrekothi, 12^.
iZ%, 16.
Tardey, 13}.
6. LoviBA, 60 versts from Borgo.
One of its streets descends to the very
sea-shore, while others are arranged in
a kind of amphitheatre on the side of a
hill. Lovisa was once a frontier post
of the Swedes, but its importance
ceased when these provinces were ceded
to Bnssia. Some remains of its former
defences are yet to be seen. Two or
three massive walls with their embra-
sures, even now almost perfect, seem^ at
a distance to command the road which
approaches the town. The country
be3rond this is wild enough : no traces
of cultivation can be discerned, and as
far as the eye can reach it is one
barren heath, with here and there a
few boulder-stones, and fir-trees thinly
scattered among the heather. The
road, however, is excellent, hard, and
smooth, and fuU of picturesque wind-
ings : and the traveller will oe fairly
hurled along at a rapid pace. Nervous
people have no business to travel in
Finland ; the horses, though small, are
full of life, and know of no other pace
than the gallop, whether it is up or
down hill. The traveller will, either
on land or sea, thus speed on his way
through Finland, and frequently with-
out meeting one human b^g from one
station to the next; the &tk pines
and massive boulder-stones (many of a
magnitude which will astonish the
traveller or any geologist who has not
traversed the country), the red verst-
posts and a ragged scantv flock are
the only objects that meet the eye. In
some places partial clearings, princi-
pally made by fire, add one new feature
to the landscape ; and the charred and
blackened trunks of the larger trees,
which have resisted the power of the
flames, standing like gaunt sentinels
in the black space around them, con-
trast strongly with the dark green of
the Hving pines and the bright lichens
of the boulder-stones scattered around
them : many of these huge stones arise
firom the earth in single masses, and it
was firom one of these that the Alex-
ander pillar in St. Petersburg was
wrought. Other boulders may be seen
h^ped up one on the other in stranse
confusion and ftmtastic shapes, exacuy
as they lay when washed lliere by the
deluge. The drive between Ix)visa
and the next station is very beautiful,
and hill and vale are passed, with
scarcely time to look down on the
torrent that foams and boils below in
its narrow and rocky bed, as the traveller
dashes over the narrow arch that spans
each yawning chasm.
AborrfoTB, 16 v. The position of this
villaRe is one of the most picturesque
on uie road. Approaching it fiiom
Lovisa, there is a broad stream winding
along a valley, immediately beyond
whim rises a lull of considerable eleva-
tion; its sides and summit are covered
with red cottages, and around them is
a forest with its giant boulders looking
like specks on the dark green mantle.
Brdinft 20 v. Between this and the
next station, the fortress which formerly
marked the frontier of Sweden, and
was then guarded with the most jealous
care, is passed. Its scarped sides and
ditches still remain ; but the place is,
in other respects, totally neglected, and
even uninhabited. Shortly after, a
T 2
890
Boute 65. — Hogfors — Fredrikshamn — Wyborg. Sect. IV.
inm in the road will bring the traveller
in Bight of a beautiftil waterfall of the
river Kymen, near Hogfors ; as such
it wonld be considered by many ; bnt
to travellers who are firesh from that of
Trollhattan, or those of Italy, its bean-
ties will appear somewhat questionable.
This stage is hilly ; the road, however,
good.
Hdgfors, 14 y. The next stage is
long, and almost tiie whole way through
one unbroken pine forest, the trees
coming in many places quite down to
the edge of the loed ; the whole country
being covered with stupendous boulder-
stones, many of them far larger than
the one which forms the base of the
celebrated statue of Peter the Great
at St. Petersburg. In some places the
rook pierces through its thin covering
of earth and vegetable matter, and
. spreads its hard surface, uncovered by
shrub or plant, over a space of many
square yards. At length the view
opens, and the fortress of Fredrikshamn
is seen on the opposite side of an arm
of the sea, which runs some miles in-
land, and round the shores of which
the road winds its way.
7. Fbkdbtkhhamn, 20 v. The works
here were constructed on Vauban*s
principle; but, judging by the neg-
lected aspect of the place, Bussia has
very little use for them. Originally it
was a place of great strength, and in-
accessible on 2 sides; the approaches
are covered and protected by field-
works to a considerable distance, and
the only entrance to the town, which
looks as deserted as the fortifications,
is by a narrow passage winding round
the angle of a bastion, enfiladed in
every direction by the works from the
body of the place. The post-house
seems to have escaped the general ruin,
being one of the best on the road.
Fredrikshamn was, in former days, the
residence of the governor of the pro-
vince : a massive tower, constructed in
the middle of a square, overlooked the
whole town, and from this every street
diverged like the spokes of a wheel.
It was in this tower, and on the 5th
of September, 1809, that the treaty of
peace was signed, by which. Sweden
surrendered Finland to Bussia. A fire
consumed the tower and several of the
streets some few years since.
BiMlaJes, Not far from hence are
the granite-quarries from which were
drawn the monolith columns for the
church of St. Isaac at St. Petersburg.
8. Wtbobo. — (Hotels: Ehrenburg's,
recommended ; Society's House.) The
port of Wyborg is of great extent, and
enclosed by 2 large i^ands which form
as it were 2 natural breakwaters. The
houses are inhabited by merchants,
workmen, and innkeepers, and sur-
rounded by immense quantities of deals,
of which there is a considerable export
trade. The town is about 12 versts
from the harbour, and at the end of a
large bay. Between the old lines of
fortification and the city flows a broad
arm of the sea, in the midst of which
stands a solitary rock, crowned with a
fine old tower of other days, rearing
its still proud head, high and imposing
above all around it. It must in ages
past have been a magnificent donjon
keep, and the shot-marks upon its walls
bear witness that the tide of battie has
often raged around it. Its upper stories
are now roofless; the lower ones are
used as a prison. The view of Wyboig,
with its churches and domes flailing
in the sun, is very striking ; but the
approach to it by land is bad; from
the foot of the glacis to the post-house
the pavement is of the worst kind. The
castle of Wyborg, destroyed by fire, and
now in ruins, was built m 1293, by the
brave Torkel Knutson, one of the most
illustrious Swedes mentioned in history.
The fortifications date from the 15th
centy. Wyborg was then one of the
cities of Finland, and the seat of a
bishopric. Attacked on several occa-
sions by the Bussians, it defended
itself with great brave^. In 1710 the
place was besieged by Peter the Great,
and taken after a hard struggle which
occupied several weeks. The peace of
1721, known as the Treaty of Kystadt,
put the Tsar in definitive possession of
it and the neighbouring country; and
in 1745 the Treaty of Abo enlarged
Finland.
Boute bb.—FaUs oflmatra.
391
still farther thiB conquest. For nearly
a century the conqnered portions of
Finland, distinguished as Gamla Fin-
land, or Ancient Finland, were subject
to the same regulations in civil matters
as the rest of Russia. After the con-
quest of the country had been com-
pleted they were reunited to the pro-
vinces from which they had been
separated, and the same privileges were
conceded to them which Finland had
originally enjoyed under the Swedes.
Wyborg is now the chief town of a
province, and has a supreme court of
justice ; it contains 6000 Inhab., divided
into Fhiland^rs, Bussians, Swedes, and
Germans.
Baron Nioolai's house and grounds
of ** Mon Kepos," where the scenery of
Finland is represented in miniature,
are a short distence from the town.
From Wyborg an excursion should
be made to the magnificent falls of
Imatra, on the Yuox river, 59 v. from
Wyborg. The scenery attracts nume-
rous visitors from St. Petersburg. This
is also the resort of fishermen. Trout
abound in the lakes and rivers of Fin-
land, and the falls of Imatra afford
excellent sport. Visitors should in-
quire for a locsd fisherman, who for 60
oopeks will provide an excellent day's
filing. The fish and the current
bein^ very powerful, the strongest gut
should be used and the line .consider-
ably lengthened. Up to the middle of
July 20 and 30 lbs. of fish may be killed
in a day. Large red palmers are a
good bait. The fishing throughout
Finland is very good, and will no doubt
attract many anglers as soon as Norway
is thorougMy overrun. Accommodation
may be had at the Post-house of Imatra,
but provisions should be brought from
Wyborg. The falls of Vallin-Koski, a
short ^stance beyond those of Imatra,
are inferior in grandeur, but far more
picturesque.
The Canal and Lake of Saima, which
unite the Gulf of Finland with the
Lake of Ladoga, should also be visited
from Wyborg, as much for the beauty
of the scenery as for the sake of inspect-
ing the locks and other works on the
canal, which is 54 v. long. It was
opened to navigation in 1856.
From Wyborg St. Petersburg may be
reached by steamer in a day. Travel-
lers wishing to see more of Finland
may take the post-road to the capital.
The next edition of this Handbook
will describe a line of rail from St.
Petersburg to Helsingfors, now in
course of construction, and which will
in all probability be pushed on to
Hango-udd.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
T 8
Digitized by VjOOQLC
( 393 )
INDEX.
JU, river, 167.
Ablan, 2*77.
Abo, J70, 385,386.
, treaty oU J86.
Aborrfors, J89.
AdminJstratioa of the mines,
329.
Adrianople, treaty of, 22.
Af^ennish, Ml of, joo.
Agrlcalture, school of, j62.
Aibar, 277.
Ai Petri, Mount, 298.
Aithidor, promontory of, 298,
299, 302.
Aivazofsky. residence of, 311.
Ai-Udagh, mountain, 304.
Ai-Vassili, valley, 302.
Akema, 255.
Akhmet, 6.
Ak-Kaya, peak of, 308.
Ak-Mecheb, Tartar Tillage,
307.
Aksai, rivnlet, 318.
Aland, islands of, 285.
Alexander Nevski, son of
yaro6lafII.,4, 230.
L, Emperor, 19, 74, 272.
— - II., coronation o^ 28.
Alexaadrofski, 155.
Alexandrov, Stat., 351.
Alexis, son of Michael Bo-
manoff, 9.
, son of Peter the Qreat,
sapposed murder of, 13.
Alma, river, 23* 295 ; source
of, 304.
Alupka, 298.
Alushta, 30$,
Anastasia, 6, 7. ^
Aiula, river, x6x.
Aimi destroyed by earthquake,
311.
Aixtonopol, 68.
Aptekarski OstrofT, 72.
Ararat the leaser, 323, J24.
Mount, 324.
Araxes, the, 324.
Archangel, 157. 158.
ArcluBoIogical remains, 266.
Arghin, 314-
Arm chair of MIthridates, 3 15.
Armenian churches at KalTa,
311.
— — kltcfaeD, 226.
BATY.
Arms of Bnssia, 6.
Army expenditure, Busslan,
31.
Arsenals :— Briansk, 244 ; Mos-
cow, 200; Pavlovsk, 155;
Beval, 172 ; St. Petersburg,
124; Tsarsko^ Selo, 153.
Asiatic frontier, 329.
Askold, 245.
Assassins, stronghold of, 327.
Astara, 326.
Astrabad, 328.
Astrakhan, 7, 232, 233.
Asylum, lunatic, 151.
Atropatena, ancient, 324.
Augustov, 364.
Augustovo, province, 361.
Aurajoki, river, 385.
Autlra, 302.
Azerbijan, 324.
Azof, sea of, 270, 317.
——fortress, 271.
B
"Babi," 258.
Bagratides, dynasty of, 322.
Baikal Lake, 329.
Baldar, valley of, 295.
gate, 296.
Bakchisarai, 292, 293.
Bakhmut. 270, 271.
Bakb,325-
Balaclava, 289, 290.
Balakhna, 230.
Balbek, valley o^ 291.
Balta, 263.
Banishment of Princess Oalit-
zin to the Crimea, 299.
Baptism of Vladimir, 235.
Baptismal fountain, 248.
Bar, 237, 238.
of the Bion, 320.
BaraUnsk Steppe, 329.
BasUII.,5.
IV., 6.
Baths, Busslan, 58.
Batoum, 316.
BatUefields of the Tartars,
Bathoiy, Stephen, 239, 242.
Baty, 266.
BUBJAN.
Baty-khan, palace of, 309.
Bazarchlk. 295.
Bear-shooting, 60.
Beetroot, cultivation o^ 246.
Belei(ja,7o.
Bells of Kasimot 227.
Moscow, 185.
Belopolye, 245.
Benderey, 237.
Berdiansk, 317.
Berdicheff, 249.
Beresma river, 21.
Berestof, 364, 365.
Berezinsky, 29, 30,
Berislaf, 276.
Bespopovstchina, 215.
Bessarabia, province, 236, 237.
Biala, 364.
Bialobzhegi, 363.
Bialystok. Stat, 361.
Bieltsi, 236.
Biren. Duke of Gourland, 13.
Bobrovni ii, 363.
Bobruisk, 3^$.
Bogdan Khmelnitsky, 259, 261 .
Bogoslofski, monastery, 266.
Bologovo, Stat, 177.
Bomarsund, 385.
Bondkara, 381.
Borg^, 389.
Boristhenes, 247.
Borysthenes, 274.
Boris Godunof, 8, 135.
Borodino, 20.
Bosporus, the, 314.
, kingdom of, 315.
Bossak, General, 338.
Botanical Gardens of Nitika,
303.
Boulders, 389.
Boyars, council of, 12.
Boxholn, 38$.
Bracker's House, 288.
Brest-Ldtevski, 364.
Briansk, 244.
British Cemeteries, 282, 283;
factory, 66; St Petersburg,
133 ; Archangel, 135.
Broty, 389.
Brunswick, Princess of, 14.
Brur, river, 351.
Bug, river, 15, 246^ 263, 270^
213.
Budget Busaian, 31*
894
INDEX*
OALENDAB.
Calendar in Budi, 8a
Gaoal, OMpUn aod Baltic, 177 ;
of Erivan, jij; ■yrtema,
229; Volga and Don, aja.
OannoQ-foundiy on the Kanu^
Oaslmir, King; 241.
the Great* j jd.
IV^6.
Gaaptan Sea, if, ijx, ajj, 270^
Gastele, Mount, J05.
Gastor-^il plantatioD, J24.
Gat-sUns. 2J0.
Catacomba of St Anthony,
248.
Gataract of Uchan-eo, jo2.
Gathartaia Manadotter, J85.
Catherine I., ij.
- — II., 275, 276, 28a
Cattle grazing of Balta, 261;
trade, 2J7.
Gaacasus, J19, 320^ J2i; tra-
velling in. J 19.
Caves of Ak-Kaya, jo8.
Caviar, trade in, 225, 269.
Cemeteries, British, 282, Mj ;
French, 288; of Karalm
Jews, 29J.
Champagne ^ St Daniel,
30h
Chancellor, Bidiard, 7, ij;,
ij6, 138.
Chaos of Lambat, }o$.
Charcoal burning, 316.
Charles XII., 11, 169, 237, 261.
Charter of Buscdan nobility,
Chatavn, no.
Chatyrdagh, 29^
Cheboksaiy, 2ji.
Cherkeases, 271.
Cbemlgoff; province, 245.
Chervinak, 36},
China, jjo.
Chinovniks, 17.
Chiriuksn, 292.
Chudova^ Stat, 177.
Chnguef, 258, 25<
Church oeremi
Church, Russian, 77.
City of the Seven Gods, 109.
Clergy, Bussiao, 78.
Climate of the Crimea, 296.
Coalfields, 270 ; fields of Grn-
Bhefka, J19; measures, 255;
mines of Poland, j6i.
Coins, collection in Hermit-
age, 96, 98; anlcent 258;
Russian, ^ 50.
Colchis, ancient 321.
Colonies, German, 308; of
Greeks, 3x7; Swiss, 313.
DUHABDBO.
Mamunentk
176.
Oompaolei, trading, 2J3.
Oonflagratioo. Abob 38$; of
Eleti;a68; ln0rel.2;6.
Conflnenoe of Bog and Yifltula,
363.
Oonstitation of Finland, 372 ;
Poland, 317 ; Buasia. 13,
22.
Corelia, 162.
Corels, 161, 162.
Com trade, 227.
Cotton mills, 221 ; plantation,
324; spinning of Fbiland,
389.
Cossacks, zo, 246, 259, 260,
263.
— — , Don, 232.
Courier service to PeUn. 330.
Crimea, 271, 276, 292, 296 ; his-
tory of, 279, 280 ; conquest
of the, 14, 15.
Crimean war, 23. 24.
Cronstadt, 27, 147.
Crown Jewels, 83*85.
Croy, Duke de, 169.
Crypts of Inkerman, 291.
Cuisine, Russian, Si.
Custom-houses, 51.
Custom-house. Polish, 363.
Cutlery, 226.
Gyrus, the ancient, 321.
Cyta. ancient, 321.
Czerak, 362.
Dawe, George, 8x, 207.
Dedilova, 254.
Dem^ Kapd, 305.
Derbend,!!.
Derekol, 302.
Desnia, river, 244.
Devil's Staircase, 2961
Devlet Ghhrey, 253, 254.
Diet Iflnland, 389.
Diets, 366, 37i.
Diligen, pass oC 323.
Dissent, 12, 2x5.
Divenskaya, 71.
Dniepr, river, 15, 26X, 262,
276.
Dniestr, river, x4, 236, 237,
246.
Dobrzyn, 363.
Dobzhykov. 363.
Dolgorukof, X3.
Don, river, 232, 269, 270, 317,
318.
Donets, river, 258, 259.
, N, river, 270.
Dorpat 7, X64, X67.
Dosdbaty, 227.
Drissa, 238.
, river, 238.
Duuaburg, 68.
FULLEB.
Dilbdn, Stat, X67.
DBnammide, tortresa^ 166.
Doninovo^ 36J.
Dutch in Russia, 255.
Duvankoi, Tartar village, 292.
Dwina^j.
, Western, 66, x66, 177,
238.
Dyr,245.
Dyurmen, 277.
E
Earthquakes of Shemakha,
J»5.
Ei, river, 3x7.
Ei8k,3X7.
Ekaterinburg, 329.
Ekaterinoslaf, 270^ 271 ; pro-
vince, 258.
Elaghinski OstrofT, 72.
Elatma, 227.
Elburz mountains, 327.
Elen-Kaya, Oape^ 3x4.
Elets, 268.
Elizavetgrad. 262.
Elizavetpol, 325.
Embach river, x68.
Enzelli, lake of, 326.
Erivan. 323.
Eski-Krlm, 279, 308, 309.
Esthonia. 9, X64, X65, 168,
X69.
Estuary of Ingnl and Boc^
Etchmladzeen, convent of,
324.
Enpatorla, 278; castle ot 291.
Exportation of wheat 274.
Exports of Odessa, 251.
Excavations of Hangups 294.
Fanning, Russian, 266.
Fasts (church), 78.
Fairs of BerdichefF, 249;
Elizavetgrad, 262; Jitomh-,
366; of Kharkof^ 260; of
Kremenchuk,262; of Kunk,
257; of NiJnl Novgorol,
222-22$, 230; of Orel, 257;
of Poltova, 26x; of Bostof,
318 ; of 7oron^. 269.
Fedotief village, 265.
Finnish tribes, 264.
Fisheries of the Don, 3x8.
Forests of Talisb, 326.
Fortress of St Dmitri, JT7;
of St Elizabeth, 26X f
Forty Gasttes, town of; 293*
Fredrituhamn fortress, 39a
French Cemetery, 288.
Fullei's earth, 291.
INDEX.
395
GADIATCH.
Gadiatcb, 261.
Gamla Finland, 191.
Gaspra village, 299.
Gatchlna, 71.
Gate of iron, ^05.
Gaza, ancient, J24.
Genoese, 297; colonies, 279;
in CMmea, 309, jio, J12 ;
colonists, 290; settlement,
270; settlement on the
' Dnlestr, 237.
Geology of Balaclava, 289.
Georgia, J22.
Gesleve, 278.
Getara, andent, ji$.
Gbirey Khans, 292.
Ghlreys. capital ot J09; dy-
nasty of, 279» 28a
Ghirski. 241.
Gnesen, Archbishop of, 251.
Gnilopiat river, 249.
Gobi desert, jjo.
Gori, 321.
G<HX>det8, 230.
Gorodnicbanka, rivnlet, j6o.
Gorohovets, Stat.. 222.
Grain marlcet of Morsbansk,
267.
Granite-qnarries, 390.
Granitsa, 361.
Grave of Howard, 276.
Great Okhta, 74.
Great wall of China, 330.
Greco-Russian Ghttrch, 77.
Greek city of Dia, 316 ; colony,
317; colonies, 315; colo-
nist, 290; on the Azof, 272.
6reig,274.
Grlazi Stat, 368.
Grodno, 360.
principality, 360.
Gruiets, }6i.
Oruahefka, 319*
Goedemin, 67, 246^ 261.
Ookchey lake, 323.
Onn-fonndry, 162.
maWng, 254, ^55-
Gn^ja, Persian, 325.
Gara Galvaria, 362.
Gustavns Adolphas, 9.
Wasa, 7, 387.
Ul., 15, 372.
Gnzov, 352.
IIa4Ji-B(Mr, fortress, 250^ 251.
Hango Head, 386.
Hanaeatlc League. 68; towns,
Beval, z68.
Harbour of Sevastopol, 280,
281.
IZIUM.
Helsingfors, 386, 388.
Hemp, 256.
Henriksdal, 389.
Hermanov^ 352.
Hermitage ."— Kertcfa Oollec-
tion. 105 ; lilH'ary, no; mi-
nerals, collection ot 119;
museum of curiosities, T04 ;
picture galleries, 85; Scy-
thian collection, 109 ;theatre,
98.
Herodotus; 274.
Hetmanate abolished, 261.
Hill of Opuk, 314.
of the Shirins, 308.
Hogfors, 390-
Holy Cross mountains, 363.
Horde of Easimo^ 227.
Howard, 252, 276.
Hungrian emigration, 271.
Huns, 258.
Hupta river, 266.
lanovitse, 362.
Iberia, ancient, 322.
Idighiel, 295.
lUby. 339.
Ilia, Mount, 296.
Ilmen lake, ind.
Ilyinskaya> 261.
Imatra, 391.
ImeriUa, 321.
Imports of Odessa, 251.
Ingul river, 273, 274.
, valley of the, 262.
Ingrla (ancient), 72.
Inkermann, 25.
, valley of. 291.
Inundation, Neva, 73.
, Dniepr, 262.
Ipatieff monastery, 23a
Irkutsk. 329.
Iron foundries, first, 255 ; ore
first discovered, 254 ; works,
227; works of Tula, 255;
works In Poland. 361.
Ismailof, Voevod, 242.
Isthmus of Perekop, 277.
Istra river, 178.
Ivan I., 4.
II.. 4.
m., 5, 6, 174.
IV., the Terrible, 6, 7, 68,
69, 133, I74»i87. 194; «nnr-
der.of the son of, 7 ; despotic
Government of, 17; tomb;
— v., 10.
VL, murder of, 14. 156.
Ivangorod, 362.
Ivanova, 221.
Izel, ft«aooes by, 301.
Idum, fbrtress, 259.
KIEF.
Jagellons, 333- JiS-
Jasna Gura. 361.
Jerusalem, Kew, 177.
Jesuits, 336. ,
Jews, Karaite, 121.
Jitomir, 246, 365, 366.
Joseph II., 275.
Jurjur, cataract of, 312.
Kachofka. 277.
Kaifa. 309-311.
Kahelie, 323.
Kalatch, 318.
Kalchik river, 317.
Kalgan, 330.
Kaliazin. 228.
Kalka river, 270.
Kalmlns river, 317.
Kalmuck Tartars, 15.
Kama river, 328. 329.
Kamenki river, 365.
Kamishborhn, 316.
Kamennol OstroflT, 72.
Kamyshin, 232.
Kansk, 329.
Karaim Jews, 278.
Cemetery, 293.
, tribe 0^ 294.
KAm tng^ n^ 7.
Karany vilU«e, 289.
Karavi islancb, 314.
Karasu-Bazar, 307, 308.
river, 307.
Kargopol, 161, 162.
Kara, surrender of, 28.
Kashnof, 227, 228.
Katcha river, 292.
Katunki, 23a
Kazan, 6, 7, 231.
Kazbek, mount» 322, 328.
Kazimiezh, 362.
Kazvin, 327.
Kem. 160; river, 161.
KeriJ river, 327.
Kertch, 314-J16.
Khalka river, 3.
Khan-Sand, 292.
^anates of Mongols, 270, 271.
S^^i^H »59b 270. 275, ^ J.
Kharkoir, 258-260.
province, 259 ; river, 2 J9.
Kherson, 271, 274-276.
Khersonesus. ancient, 275, 283-
* 289; history, 284-286; de-
flcriptioD, 287.289.
Khmehiltsky, 249.
Kiakbta, 329, 13a
KibitlS/SJ's? >
246; Pecherskoi monaster^'
S96
INDKX.
KIEF.
MABEND.
MOSCOW.
247 ; popalatlon, 24$ ; topo-
Landvarovo Stat, 360.
Mare's milk, fermented, 232.
gnpby. 147 ; univemlty, 149-
Landslips, 297-
LanglewicB, General, 338.
Language, FInniah. 372-J7«.
MariampoU site of. 293.
Kief, prorlooe, 146.
Marina, wlfid of false Dmitri.
KlklSSB,a55.i97.
MarinM 270; 271. 317-
KimmerioD. ancient, 309, J14.
Mariinsk canal system, 229.
Kineshma, iia
Lapata, mount; 302.
MarseUus, VfS-
Kingan moantains, jjo.
Lapy Stat, 361.
Massandra^ 303.
Kingdom of Poland, i3^.
La8pi,296u
Matsieiovitse, 362.
SSBnef.a«.
KiBUkDba Tillage, J07.
Laaarat Admiral, 281.
Matyn river, 268.
Leaden; Polish insurrection.
Mauron-Castron, 308.
KJx-KonUfi. 313.
338.
Meeting; Catherine U. and
Kliaama river, an.
Leeches, trade In, 262.
Joseph U., 275.
Klin Stat. 177.
Knights of Malta, 71.
Legends, Polish, 333^ 334-
Megabi, Mount 299, 302.
Mennonites, 272, 276.
Kobryn, 36$.
Lenkoran, 326.
Kokenhtuen Gastte, 167.
Lep, island, i6x.
MenzU, 327.
Koktebel, 313-
Lesghian moantains, 320.
Metrophanea,St.269.
Kolomna, 10, 264.
Lesno-Voron€sJ, river, 267.
Miendzizhets,364.
i£?^^-
Igof uTpenskimonastery, 266.
MihaUof^ki, 150.
MilhiofElete;268.
Konla, post station, J07.
KoTcbeC 328.
Llmen, 297.
Mineral waters; 176; 232; of
Lipetsk, 268; ftatJgarsk,
Korennava monastery, 258.
KomUoli; 25, 281, 282.
230.
Lipetsk, 268.
328.
Mhigrelian forest, 32a
Koednoko, 15, j6x
LishkovitsS, 3S^-
Minshev, 3G2.
Kostroma, 5» 2Ja
ListvenitchnayiW ^29.
Miracle-working pictufe of
Kotorosl river, 229.
Literature, 39, 44.
lithuania, Gb, 67 ; union with
Marinpol. 317.
Kovel. J65.
Miraculous image. 258; of
Kovrov Stat, 221.
Poland, 335.
Fedotief, 76s; Bogoelofiaki,
Kozelets, 245.
Kozbets, i65.
Little Okhta, 74-
266; vQyagft265.
Russia, 10.
Miskhor,299.
Kozlof. 267.
Livadia,3oo.
Hiaslon, American, at Uru-
Kozmodemlanak, 231.
IJvonia, 9. 164. 165. ^
miah, 324.
Kraano^ Selo^ 15X
Llvonian Switzerland, 167.
Mittau, 167.
Krasnoyarsk. 329.
Lobnoe Mesto, 201.
Mizkettra, 321.
Krasynataf; j66.
Lodeino6 Pole, 163.
Mologa, 229.
Kremenchuk, 262.
Tiodz Stat. 362.
Monasteries : — Assumption,
Kremlin, Moscow, 20^ 184.
LoBStrigones. port of, 290.
293; Bog08lof8ki,266;Ipa.
tiefr, 230; Lgof-Uspendd,
LomonossofF, 158.
— Novgorod, 175.
Lopani river, 259.
266 ; New Jerusalem, 177:
Pftdis Kloeter. 172; &
Kazan, 231.
Lopars, 161.
Skof.69.
Lovi8a,389.
George; 289; St Sogtus.
151; Solotchi, 266; Solo-
Lovitsh, 35I'
Tula, 255.
Luban Stat, 177.
vetdc, 158; Troitsa, 217;
Krestofekl OstroJT, 72.
Lublin. 366.
Walaam, 156 ; Yuiyefl^ 176.
Krinshl,262.
Lybed river, 221, 264.
Mongol khanates, 271.
Krokova Stat, 177.
Mongols, 33a
Kulikovo, 259.
Monument of Busslan Empire,
i76;ofGlycia»287.
Kol-Uba, iTunnlus of, Ji6.
Morguda,299.
Kumyss. 232, 268.
Mor8hansk,267.
Kur river, 257, 321, 323.
U
Moscow, 4, 8, 20, 179-217;
Kurds. 209.
Kurov. 300.
arsenal, 200; bazaar, 203;
Macarius. Metropolitan, 69.
Kursk, 257, 258.
Magaratdi, 303.
Makarief. 230.
Bolshol Dvoiets, i^ ;
Kutais, 321.
British Consulate. 217;
Kutchuk-Koi, 297.
Malakhof Tower, 281.
Cathedral of Archangel
Kutebuk Stamboul, 310.
Malefka, 255.
Michael, 196; Cathedral of
Kutno Stat, 35i>
Malkin Stat, 361.
St Basil, 200; cemetery.
214; Chertkof^ 209; Chu-
Kntuzof s fountain, 306k
Malo-Vyshera Stat., 177.
Kymen, feiUs of, 390.
l^kor, 293.
MamakvUlage,3e)7.
Mangup, rock of, 294.
dova Monastery, 199;
churdi of the Bedeemer in
town, 294.
Mangup-Kale, 302.
the Wood, 197; dube; 216;
Code of Alexis, 190; 00m-
L
Manufiactories of Kalomna^
missioners; 182; court car-
2(54.
riages, 191 ; DiflKntenk 215 ;
Ladoga lake, 163, 391.
Maran,32i.
Donskoi Monastexy, 214;
Lambat, vaUeys of, 304.
Marend,324.
English plate, 191 ;ED^Iah
IKBKlt.
897
MOSKVA,
Chapel, 216; Foundling
Hospital, 204 ; Areemasonry,
207 ; froeen proviBions, 20J,
204; gaUeries, 207-208;
gates, 184 ; Granovitoya
Palata, 188; great Riding
School, 209 ; great bell, 179 ;
Hermitage Gardens, 215 ;
hotels, 179; Kitai Gorod,
200 ; Kremlbi, 184 ; Library
of the Patriarchs, 199; Lob-
no4Mesto,2oi; Mammoth,
208; Masonic MSS^ 207 ; Mi-
neralogical Collection, 207 ;
«llir," or Baptismal oil,
iq8 ; mnseums, 206-209 ;
Hichoias F&lace, 191 ; Novo-
Devitchi Convent, 2x3;
Novospask Monastery, 21 j ;
palace, 185 ; Fetrofski Park,
215 ; lecture galleries, 187 ;
gctore of the Iberian
other of Gtod, 204 ; Plan
of Kremlin, i8x ; of Mos-
cow, x8o; of Uspenski So-
ber, 192 ; plate, 191 ; Polish
oonstitation, 189 ; Polish
throne, 190 ; post-offlce, 216 ;
pqpolatioiii, 179; prome-
nades, 216 ; Boinanofr
House, 201 ; RumiantsofT
Museum, 206; Russian
restaurants 182; Sacristy
of the Patriarchs, 197 ; site
of the house of the first
Eni^sh merchants, 20; ;
Simonoff Monastery, 212;
Sokolniki, 2x5 ; Sparrow
Hills, 21 1 ; Strastruy Monas*
tery, 203; Suhareff Tower,
211 ; Temple of the Saviour,
211; Terem, 188; theatres,
216; throne of the Tsars,
190; tomb of Dimitrius,
196: of Ivan IV^ 196 ; of
Sopida Pateologus, 200;
topography, 182; treasury,
188; university, 2x0; Us-
penski Sobor, 1 04 ; vehicles,
179; view of Moscow, 2oj,
2X2 ; Yosnesenski Convent,
199 ; Zolotaya Palata, 187 ;
Zoological Gardens, 2x5.
Moflkva river, 264.
Mouravieff, 28.
Msta river, X77.
Mud springs^ 278.
Murom, 226, 227, 265.
Myshkin, 229.
Nakhltchevao, 324.
Names, andent, of Bug and
Dnlestr, 274; Genoese of
Kertdi, 3x5; of Ft>ltava,
OLVIOPOL.
ancient, 260; Scythian of
KaJIa, J09; Sea of Azoi;
iX2.
Ki^tha springs, 325.
Napoleon, X9, 22, 24a
Napoleon's Hfll, 66.
Narev, river, j6i.
Narva, 7, xx.
Natalia, wife of Alexis, xo.
Naval yard of Voron^, 269.
Navigation of the Don, 3x7,
3x8.
NeapoUs, fortress of, jo6.
Nenkd-E^an-Khanym, mauso-
leum of, 29J.
Neva, 4, 72, 163.
Nevka, river, 72.
Neuri, 274.
New Jerusalem, 177-X79.
New Stockholm, 237.
Nidiolas I., 22.
Nicolaef, 273.
Nicon, patriarch, to, X78.
Nioopol, 276.
NieUo ware, 255.
N^ni-Novgorod, o, 222-226;
Minin and Pojarski, 222;
Minin's tower, 222; fair,
225 ; Kremlin. 22a.
Nlkita, 303, J04, 360.
Nlemen, river, 19, 66.
Niesfaava, 363.
NUine-Udlnsk, 329.
Nikitin, poet, 269.
Nobles, Rusdan, 16, X7.
Nogay Tartars^ 6.
Normans, 2.
Norr Vrekoski, 280.
Novaya Ladoga, 163.
Nov^»rod, 2, 6, X73-X76.
Novgorod Volynski, 365.
Novki, Stat, 221.
Novocherkask, 318, 319.
Novogeorgievsk fortress, 362.
Novoselitsa, 236.
Novy6 Kodaika, 275.
NymphsBum, andent, 314.
Observatory, Dorpat, X67.
Odessa, 250-253.
OeseU island, X64.
Oglh-Ob^ fortifications of,
109.
Oka, river, 5, 6, 9, 222, 227,
256, 265 ; trade of, 257.
Okhna, river, 351.
Okhta, 74.
OkulofkaStat»x77.
01ga,St,2.
Olgerd, 250.
01bla,274.
Olonetfl^ province^ 161, x62.
Olviopol, 263.
Omnibuses, service of, in Per-
sia, 328.
Omsk, 320.
Onega, xu.
— river, x6r.
lake, X62.
Oprichniks, X94, 195.
Opuk, Tartar village, 3x4.
Orcha, river, 244.
Ordnance house of Peter the
Great, 269.
Orel, 256, 257 ; province, 245.
Organof Abo, 385.
Orgeief, 237.
Orianda,3oa
de Witt, 299. *
Orlik river, 256.
OrlofTDavidof^ 232 ; diamond,
Oryshev, 352.
Osembash, village, 302.
Oskol, river, 259.
Ostashkof, X77.
Ostrolenka, 304.
Ostra, river, 245.
Ostrov, Stat, j^i.
Otdiatof, province, 275.
Otchakoff, province, 250.
Otrepie^ 254.
Overland route to the Crimea,
271-
Padis Eloster, 172.
Palace of the Khans, 292.
Palakion, port of, 290.
Panea, 297.
Panticapffium, andent, 3x4.
Parpatdi, 314.
Parthenike Cape, 284, 288.
Parthenite vilhi«e, 304.
Passage of Diophantes, 29X.
PavlofskStat,22x.
Pavlovo, 226.
Peace of Nyrtadt, 167.
Pechenegians, 254, 270, 275.
Pechersk fortress, 248.
Pella, X56.
Peninsula of Khersonesus, ^83 ,
284.
Perevlds, 266.
Perekop, 277.
Pereyaslavl, prindpality, 261.
Pbreyaslavl-Riazanski, 265. a
Perm, 328.
Peterho^ 149, 15a
Petersburg, St, xi, 71-146;
Academy of Arts^ x 16 ; Aca-
demy of Sdences, 1x3; Alex-
ander Nevskl monastery,
131 ; arsenals, XX4; bankers,
X44; British £Eu;tory, i33t
130; Cathedral of St Peter
and St Paul, xia; Church
of Trinity, 132; club^ 142;
drives^ 146; English phy-
S98
IKDEZ.
PETBIKAU.
BidMi, 140; exchange, i^;
fortrefls, 1x2; Foundling
Hospital, I2j; history and
topography, 72; Hermitage,
85; hospitals and medical
advice, 140 ; hotels, 71 ; Isaac
Cathedral, 7$ ; Kazan Cathe-
dral, 80; learned societies,
142; library, 120; Marble
Palace, 112; markets, 138;
Michael Palitce, 121 ; mining
school, 116 ; mint» 11 j ;
monuments, 136; picture
galleries, 100; plan of Her-
mitage, 88 ; population, 75 ;
I postofBce, 44 ; Preobrajen-
ski church, m; purchiues,
1 39 ; Roman Catholic church,
I }i ; Russia Company, xjj ;
smoking, 72 ; Smolni monas-
tery, I JO ; i^rts, 145 ; sum-
mary of buildings, 144;
Summer Gardens, 143 ; Tau-
rida palace, 124; telegraph
office, 144; theatres, 141;
university, 116; vehicles,
74 ; Winter Palace, 89.
Fetrikau, 361.
PetrofsW Ostroff, 72.
Petrozavodsk, 162.
Petushki Stat, 221.
Phasis, ancient, 320.
Philip, Metropolitan, 194, 195.
I^oros, pass of, 296.
Piaski, j66.
Piatigorsk, 328.
Pilgrimages to Jama Gura,
361 ; Kara-sn, 309 ; Troitsa,
220.
Pecherskoi monastery, 248.
Pllitsa, river, 362.
Piracy on the Volga, 232.
Pir-Bazaar river, 326.
Plaka^romontory, 304.
Plan, Hermitage, 88.
Platoff, Hetman, monument
to, 319.
Pies, 230.
Plotsk, 363.
Podolia, 263, 237, 246.
Pogankins, 70.
Polish confederation of Bar, 238.
Polovstes, 270, 275, 279.
Polotsk, 238, '239.
Poltava, 260, 262; province,
261.
Ponga river, x6i.
Poniatowski, 360.
Popovstchma, 2x5.
Populace of Novocherkask,
JI9-
Porcelain works, 155.
Ports on Sea of Azof; 272.
Posthig, 52.
Poti, 320.
Prussian colonies, 27 2,
Pruth, river, 236.
Prypet, river, 246.
Pskof, proYinoe, 68.
BYXSK.
Pskof-Pecbersk. 70.
Pskova, river, 69 ; Volga, 232.
Psla, river, 258.
Pulavy, 362,
Pultusk, 364.
Putrid Sea, 277, 279.
Pyias Caucasa», 322.
Quarries of Khersonesus, 291.
Quarantine Bay, 284.
B
Radom, 36}.
Raglan, Lord, 288.
Railways, 64.
Rasbin, 363.
Red Russia, 10. 1
Redan, the, 282.
Reform, 28, 29.
RefUge of Arians, 293.
Resbt, 326.
Residence of Georgian kings,
321.
Restaurants, 5?.
Reut, river, 236, 237.]
Rha, river, 228.
Riajsk, 266.
Riazan, 264.
, old dty, 266.
, principality of, 264, 265.
Richelieu, Duke of, 25X, 303*
304-
Rion, river, 320.
Risalaks, 390.
Road from Bakhtcbisarai to
Simpheropol. 295.
Sevastopol to Inkerman,
29a
from Tiflis to Erivan,
323.
Robber of Tushin, 264.
Rogatshev, 365.
Rokiciny Stat., 361.
Romanoff-Borisoglebsk, 229.
Ropsha, 14.
Roslav, 244.
Rostavl Stat, 365.
Rostof, 317. 318.
Route to the Crimea, 276.
Rov, river, 237.
Rovno, 365.
Ruda Guzovska» 351.
Ruins of Ehersonesus, 286.
Russ, 3J4-
Rurik, house of, X73.
Russian Church, 77-79.
Ruthenia, southern, 246.
Rybinsk, 22).
Ryki, 366. uigit
Rylsk, 258.
S0BIE8KI.
Saehing, 330.
Saima, lake, 391*
St George's Day, 289 ; Nidiolas
Salos, 70; Olga, birthplace
of, 70.
Sergius, 217.
, monastery, 151.
Salghir, river, 306, 307.
Salt lakes, 280 ; springs, 36J ;
works, 2701
Samara, 232.
Sandomir, 362.
Sarabuz, 277.
SaratofT, 232.
, colony, 156.
San, river, 362.
Sbrutcha, river, 237.
Schliisselbuj^ 14, 156, 163.
Sdiwert, Bruder, 164, 169.
Scoptsi, 321.
Scottish officers, 9, 135.
Scythians, 274.
Sefid-rhd, river, 327.
Seim, river, 257.
Selenginsk, 329.
Shaitan Der6h, 289.
Senate 12.
Serfdom, 8, 16, X7, 28.
Serpukhof, 253. ^
Setch, Cofisacl^ 271, 273. '
SevastoDol, 278-282. ,
Shein, Boyar, 242.
Sheksna, river, 177.
Shemakha, 325.
Shidlovets, 363.
Shipwrights, Dutch and Eog-
lish, 9, 134.
Slurinskaya Gora, 308.
aioho, 33a
Shrava, river, 361.
Shuisko-lvano&ko, Stat, 221.
Shuya, 221.
Sibbo, 389.
Siedltse, Stat; 364.
Silkworms of Tiflis, 322.
Simbirsk, 231.
Simeis, 297, 298.
Simpheropol, 306.
Sinabdagh, 295.
Siniuha, river, 263.
Sirdars, northern, 237.
Sivash, the^ 270.
SkiemievitB^ Stat Junct,35ii
361.
Slave-market of the Crimea,
Slavo-Servia, 271.
Slavonians, 274, 275 ; history.
Slut£, J65.
Smolensk, 9, 19, 240, 244.
, province, 240.
Soap of Inkerman, 291 ; worii-S
231.
Sobieski. birthplace^ ^66.
SOCIETT.
Sodefy, Bnssiaii, 62.
Soezevka» 363.
Soldaya^ Genoese city, Ji2»
Solotchi, monastery, 266.
Solovetsk, monastcoy, 158-160.
Sosna, river, 268.
Sosnovitse, i6i.
Scarce of the Don, jiB.
Spask, 266.
Spirova, Stat, 177.
Sport, 58.
Stalactite caves of Tchatyr
Dagh, 306.
Stary Krim, 279, 308, J09.
Staraya Buss, 176.
Staroveri, 160.
Star Chamber, 14.
States General, 9, 12, 16.
Statistics, 30.
Stavropol, 232.
Steamboat Companies, Volga,
2JO.
Steamers on the Vistula, 362.
Stearine works, 23.1.
Stenka Razin, ^ 228. 231, 232.
Stephen Bathork 360.
Steppes, 04?, 246, 271.
Streletsa Bay, 284.
Streltsi, 7, 10, 179, 188.
Story of Balaclava, port, 290 ;
the Khersonesns, 286-287;
Cape Parthenike, 288.
Struve, Otto, 167.
Sudak, Bay of, 3x2 ; hamlet,
j 312.
I Sugakley, river, 263.
Sugar manufactories in Poland,
„ 351-352.
Snhednivu, 363.
Sultanofka, 314.
Sumi, 258.
, Surojskie Mor^, 312.
Surovskid goods, 312.
Sosanio, Ivan, 230.
. Suwalki, 364.
Sviajsk, 231.
Svir, river, 163, 177.
Sweaborg, 386.
Swentsiany, 68.
Swiss colony in the Crimea,
313.
Tabana, DSreb, 294.
Tabreez, 324.
Taganrog, 270-273.
Tallina, 168.
Tallow melting, 267.
Tambof, province, 267.
Tammerfors, 388.
-;— falls, 389.
lanais, river, 27a
Tanneries, 231,
Tarantas, 329.
■lartar Icingdom, Kazan, 2ji.
—-village, 23a
INDEX.
TBOE.
Tartar physiognomy, 297.
Tascher, Joachim, 30a
Tauri, altars of, 302.
, divinity of, 288.
, fortifications ot 304* 305*
i work of, 291.
Tauric Chain, 289, 296, 302,
313.
Taurida» 279.
Tantsban Bazaar,
Tartar village, 306.
Tavastehns, 388.
Tchaplinka, 277.
Tchatyr Dagh, 277, 289, 306.
Tchekh, 334.
Tchemaya, river, 25, 291.
— — sources of, 295.
Tchemaya DoUna, 277.
Tchufut Kal^, 293.
Tea trade, 224.
Telega, 329-
Temeraik, rivniet, 318.
Tep6 Kermen, 293.
Terek, river, 328.
Terespol, 364.
Teterev, river, 36J.
Teutonic Kni^ts, 164, 165,
169,36a
Theodosia, 309-31X.
Tiflls, 322.
Tigris, 237.
Tiger, flag of, 251.
Tikhvin, canal system, 229.
Timber trade, 236, 237.
Tiraspol, 237.
Tinmen, 329.
Todleben, 23, 25.
Tdktanlyeh, 253, 264.
Tomb of Aldurakhman, 292.
Diliarah Bikeg, 293.
Tomsk, 329.
Torsley, 389.
Trade of Berdiansk, 317; of
the Caspian, 233 ; of Elets,
268; of Elizavetgrad, 262;
of Earasn-Bazar, 308; of
Eremenchnk, 262; Kozlof,
267 ; of Morshansk, 267 ; of
Kicolaef, 274 ; of Orel, 256,
257 ; Poltova, 261, 262 ; of
Rif^sk, 266 ; with Smolensk,
241 ; of Taganrog, 272 ; of
Tula, 255 ; of Voronej, 269.
TrafBc on the Caspian Sea,
325.
Travelling, 63.
Treaty of Abo, 390; of An-
drussy, 243, 246; of Bel-
grade, 271; of Jas^, 250;
of Kinardlji, 250; Kuchuk-
Kainar^ji, 271, 280, 315 ; of
Nystadt, 390; of Vrazma,
246 ; of Poltava, 261.
Tribunals, ancient, of Poland,
place of meeting, 361 ;
Polish, 366.
Triumphal arches, 146, 152.
Troglodytes, 289, 293.
Trok, principality, 360.
399
VIAZNIKI.
Troitsa Monastery, 10^ 18,
217, 220.
Trub^, river, 264.
Trubinbki House, 7a
Tsarsko^ SeLo, 152, 154.
Tsars of Kasimo^ 227.
Tsaritsyn, 232.
Tsickhotsinck, 363.
Tsna, river, 177, 267.
Tszenstokhova 8taL, 361.
Tiiak Valley, 312.
Tula. 254. 256,
Tumuli of the Bosphorus, 3x4;
of Elizavetgrad, 263; of
Eharkoff, 258; of Kherson,
274; of Kdnia, 307; of
Shnpherqpol, 306.
Tunas, river, 307.
Tursova, rivulet^ 318.
Tushi, 3.
Tushin, thief of, 254, 264.
Tuskor, river, 259,
Tvertsa, river, 177.
Twer, X77.
province, 177.
Tyskewicz, Voevod of Kic^
349.
ITglitch, 228, 229.
Uhi Uzen, 312.
Ukholova, villages of, 266.
Ukraine, 246^ 247, 260, 261.
UloJeni6, X9a.
TJ^ja, river, 23a
Union of Lubin, 246.
Uniats, 67, 245, 247.
Upa, river, 254.
Universities: Dorpat, X67 ;
Helsingfors, 308 ; Kazan,
231 ; Kharkoff, 260 ; Kief,
249; Moscow, 2x0; St. Pe-
tersburg, 116; Odessa, 252.
Ural mountains, 329.
Urga, 330.
Urumiah, 324.
Urzuf; Valley of, 303.
Bay, 304.
Ushlin, 277.
Ussun^Ji,^ mountains, 29^
Valdai, X77; hills, 177.
Valkl, 259.
Valley of the Devil, 289.
VaUin-Koski, falls, 39X.
VasU, 231.
Vasdli Ostrolf, 72.
Vech6, 6, 9, 16, 68, 173.
— bell, 619,174.
Smolensk, 241.
Veliki river, 68.
Venetians in the Crimea, 312.
Verkhn^Udinsk, 329.
Via8ma,2i. v^vi>^
Vlaznikl Stat, 22V'
U
400
INDEX*
YIEFSS.
Viepdi, rirer. jifl.
VUl*. river. 66, 67.
VllU of Prince Woronioff, 298.
Tinet, coUecUon aU Crimea,
joj ; Vineyards of Aluafata,
J05; ofKaMde, jzj.
Vinnitia, 249, 250.
VlAtnla, river, JSi* 36j.
Yladlkavkaa, J28.
Tladi-iUvkafl, pass cf, 12X
yiadimlr, town o( 3, 4. 221 ;
provinoe, 222 ; Grand Duke,
284-289.
Vlotalavek Stat, J51, j6j.
Volgak river, 140, 1'jS, 182.
Volbvnla, province, 217, 246.
Yolkhot river, 173, 176, 177.
Volkbova Stat, 177.
Volocbiak, 237.
YoroncJ, 268.
Yorun^ river, 269.
Yorskla, river, 258, 261.
Yosneaeni^, 162.
Yodoreaeneki monastery, 177.
Voyage of BUhop of Murom,
265.
Voyage down tbe Volga, 2jj.
Vaevolod G&briel, Irince of
Novgorod, 7a
Vuox, river, 391.
Vybutina, 7a
Vyra, river, 245.
Vyshogrod, 363.
Vysounski, iron works, 227.
Vyshni-Volochok, 177.
Vytegra, 162.
river, i6x
Walaam Monasterv, 156.
"Warsaw, 15, 19; Arsenal, old,
3SSi asylum, deaf, dumb,
and blind, 357 ; asylum,
lunatic, 354; bazaar, 356;
Bank of Poland, 355 ; Belve-
dere Palace, 358; benevo-
lent society, bouse of, 356 ;
Bielany, 353 : botanical gar-
dens, 358; Brfihl palace,
356; Camaldolite ch. and
convent, 353 ; caskada, 353 ;
CastlA FalenU, 355 « Castle
of Villanov, 358; cathedral,
353 ; church of Pauline and
WABSAV.
Dcminicaa convents, 35ii
cb. of our Lady, 353 ; ch.
of tbe Franciscans, 353;
ch. of the Basiliana, 354; ch.
of the Gapucins, 354; c^
and convent of Carmelites,
355; ch. of the convent of
Bemardines, 356 ; ch. of the
convent of the Visltandines,
356; ch. of the Holy Cross,
357; citadel. 3531 clubs,
352; Credit Fonder, the,
355 ; crosses, the two, 357 »
evangelical chapel, 355 ;
evangelical cemetery, 355;
Field of liars, 354; <^ro-
khov, 359; hospiud of tbe
Infant Jesus, 355 ; hospital,
Israelite, 354 ; hoffpital,mili-
tary, 358; hotels, 352; H6tel
de I'Europe, 356; H6tel de
ViUe, 354 ; House of Count
Andrew Zamoiski, 357 1
Iron Gate, 356; Iron-works,
354 ; Jerusalem carrier. 355*
Krasinski Palace, 354; La-
zienki, 358 ; Mariemont, 353*
Market, horse and cattle,
359; market-place, 356;
merchants' club^ 355* vHut,
354; monument to Coper-
nicus, 357 ; Morysin and
Natolln villas, 359; Mos-
tovski Palace, 355 ; Obelisk,
356 ; observatoiy, 358 ; Ohm
Gardens, 355; Ordynatckie,
359; palace of the Arch-
bishop of Warsaw, 354;
palace of the Pac family,
354; palace of the Prince
Primate, 35A; palace of
Count Zamoi^i, 355 ; palace
of the Namiestnilc, 356;
palace of the Prince O^ski,
356; palace of Count Po-
tocki, 356 ; palace of Count
Urusk^ 357 ; palace of the
Counts Kr^lnski, 357 » Pod-
blakhon palace, 353 ; popu-
lation, 352 ; Povonski ceme-
tery, 354 ; post-ofilce, 3st ;
railway station, Warsaw-
Vienna. 355 ; Rashyn, 355 i
reformed church, 354 ; Rus-
sian cemetery, 355 ; Russian
cathedral, 354 * Sapieha bar-
racks, 353; Saska Kempa,
359 ; Saxony gardens, 355 ;
ZOMBKOWITSE.
Saxony Square, 356 ; Soiate
houses 354 ; SierakovsU bar-
wcks, 35 J ; Solec, 359 5
square of royal castle, 352 ;
statue of the Holy Virgin,
354; statue of St John
Nepomuck, 357 ; statue of
the Virgin, 356; Summer
camp of Buadan troqpa, 3 54 ;
Tarnovsky palace, 356 ;
tent of ICara Mustapha, 359;
terminus of St Petersburgh
railway, 35 »; topography,
352; vehicles, 352; Vola,
parish church, 355$ Zamek,
352.
Warta river, 361.
Watershed of Immeritia and
Georgia, 321.
WheatHrade of Odessa, 251;
of Olvlopol, 263^ of Orel.
256.
White Russia. 68, 2381239.
Wielopolski, Marquis, 33^.
Wines of the Crimea, 298, 299^
301, 303.
Winnis, 255.
Witebfik province, 68.
Wool trade, 262.
Wyborg,390.
Tailas, mountain, 302.
Yalta. 301.
, valley of, 302.
Yaroslaf, Grand Duke, 247.
Yenisei, province, 329; river,
329.
Yoprakl, mount J02.
Yurief-Povoyski, 230.
Yuryeff, monastery, 176.
Zakrotshim, 363.
Zam(«ts, 366.
Zaporogians, 271, 272.
Zavikhost ^62.
Zegzhe,364-
Zinc-works in Poland. 361.
Zolklef, 366.
Zombkowitse, 361.
THE END.
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