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HANDBOOK 


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TRAVELLERS  IN  NORTHERN  ITALY. 


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NOTICE. 


The  Editor  of  the  Handbook  fob  Italt  is  very  solicitous  to  be 
favoured  with  corrections  of  any  mistakes  and  omissions  which  may 
be  discovered  by  persons  who  have  made  use  of  the  book.  Those 
communications  especially  will  be  welcomed  which  are  founded  upon 
personal  knowledge,  and  accompanied  by  the  name  of  the  writer  to 
authenticate  them.  Travellers  willing  to  make  such  communications 
are  requested  to  have  the  kindness  to  address  them  to  the  Editor  of  the 
Handbook,  care  of  Mr.  Mm-ray,  Albemarle  Street. 


Caution  to  Tbayellebs. — By  Act  of  Parliament,  the  introduction  into 
England  oi foreign  pirated  Editions  of  the  works  of  British  authors,  in  which 
the  copyright  subsists,  is  totally  prohibited,  Trayellers  will  therefore  bear  in 
mind  that  even  a  single  copy  is  contraband,  and  is  liable  to  seizure  at  the  English 
Custom-house. 

Caution  to  Innkeefebs  and  othebs. — ^The  Editor  of  the  Handbooks  has 
learned  from  various  quarters  that  persons  have  of  late  been  extorting  money 
from  innkeepers,  tradespeople,  artists,  and  others,  on  the  Continent,  under 
pretext  of  procuring  favourable  notices  of  them  and  their  establidhments  in 
the  Handbooks  for  Travellers,  or  in  Guides,  which,  being  artfully  styled  **  livres 
rouges,"  are  passed  off  by  these  impostors  as  the  red  Handbooks  published 
by  Mr.  Murray.  The  Publisher,  therefore,  thinks  proper  to  warn  all  whom  it 
may  concern,  that  recommendations  in  the  Handbooks,  are  not  to  be  obtained 
by  such  means,  and  that  the  persons  alluded  to  ar^  not  only  imauthorised  by 
him,  but  being  totally  unknown  to  him  are  little  better  than  swindlers.  All 
those,  therefore,  who  place  confidence  in  such  promises,  or  in  persons  who 
assume  to  be  agents  of  the  Publisher,  demanding  money  as  the  price  of  recom- 
mendatiouA  in  the  Handbooks,  may  rest  assured  that  they  will  be  defrauded 
without  attaining  their  object. — 1866. 


*^*  No  attention  can  be  paid  to  letters  from  Hotel-keepers  in  praise 
of  their  inns;  the  postage  of  them  being  onerous,  they  will  be 
refused,  '"/ 


HANDBOOK 


FOR 


TRAVELLERS  IN  NORTHERN  ITALY. 


COMPRISING 


PIEDMONT.  LIGTIRIA,  LOMBARDT,  VENETIA, 
PAEMA,  MODENA,  AND  EOMAGNA. 


CABKFDLLY  BETI8ED  TO  THE  PBE8EMT  TIME. 
WITH    A    TBAVELUNO   MAP    AND    SIXTEEN    PLANS    OV    TOWNS. 


LONDON: 

JOHN    MUREAY,   ALBEMARLE   STREET. 

PARIS:  A.  W.  G ALIGN ANI  &  CO.;  XAVIER. 
FLORENCE:  GOODBAN.  MILAN:  ARTARIA  &  SON. 

TURIN:  MAGGT.    VENICE:  MUNSTER. 
ROME:  PIALE;  SPITHOVER.    NAPLES:  DETKEN. 

1866. 


The  right  <if  Ttv/ulaiion  it  raerved. 


THE  ENaUSH  EDITIONS  OF  HURRAT's  HANDBOOKS  HAT  BE  OBTAINED  OF  THE    | 

FOLLOWING  AOENTB  : — 


A(X-LA.  1 

CHAI'ELLE   f 

AMSTERDAM  . 

ANTWERP 
BADEN-BADEN 
BERLIN     . 
BRU89ELB 

CARLSRDHE  • 

eOBLBNTZ  . 

COLOGNE.  . 
DRESDEN 

FRANKFURT  • 
ORATZ  .  • 
THE  HAGUE  . 
HAMBURG 


BA8LE      . 
BERNE      . 
COIRE 
CONSTANCE 
GENEVA  . 


LAUSANNE 


BOLOGNA 
FLORENCE 
GENOA      . 

LEGHORN 
LDCCA  . 
MANTUA. 
MILAN     . 

MODENA . 
NAPLES    . 

PALERMO 


Germany f  HcUand,  and  Belgium, 

HEIDELBERG.    MOHR. 


I.  A.  MATEE. 

J.  MULLER.-W.  KnUBERGER. 

—VAN  BAKKENESS. 
MAX.  KORNICKER. 
D.  R.  MARX. 
ASHER 
MUQU  a'rDT.  —  KIESSLINO 

A  CO. 
A.  BIELEFELD. 

EISEN. 
ARNOLD. 

C.  JUG  EL. 
damian  a  SOROE. 
van  STOCKUM. 
PERTHES.      BE8BEB, 
MAUKE. 


KI8SINGEN       . 
LEIPZIG    . 

LUXEMBOURG 
MANNHEIM      • 
MAYENCE 
MUNICH   . 

NURNBERO     . 
FE8TH      • 

PRAGUE  .        • 
ROTTERDAM  . 
STUTTGART    . 
TRIESTE  . 
VIENNA    .       • 

WIESBADEN    . 


e.  jdoEL. 

BR0CKHAU8.— DURE. 
BiJCK. 

ARTARIA  A  FONTAINE.  I 

VON  ZARBRN.  . 
LITERARISCH.— ARTISnSCHi 

— ANSTALT^L  PALM.  ^ 

8CURA0.  1 

HARTLEBEN,'^  * 

G.  HECKENABT.  • 

CALVE.  I 

KRAMERS.— PETRI,  I 
P.  NEFP. 
MUN8TER. 

C  GEROLD.— BRAUUtTLLBC 
— 8TERNICKEL 

&  W.  KREIDEL. 


SwUzerUmd, 


H.  GEORG.— H.  AMBERGER. 

WIRTBRUH^^ANDARD. 

GRUBENMANN. 

MECK 

H.  GEORG.— DESROGIS.^ 

S1ERBULIEZ.— GES.— 
ONROB.— 6HIS  LETTT. 
MARTINI ER  A  CHAVANNES.^ 
T.  ROU8ST. 


LUCERNE.        .    F.  KAISER. 
NEUCHATEL    .    GERSTER. 
SCHAFPHAUSEN  HURTER. 


SOLEURB. 
ST.  GALLEN 
ZURICH    . 


JENT. 
HUBER. 

H.  FftSLI  A  CO.^METER 

A  ZELLER. 
H.  F.  LEUTHOLD,  POST 

(BTRASSE. 


H.  RUSCONI. 

OOODBAN. 

GRANDONA  A  CO.-ANTOINE 

HE(]F.— T.  D.  ROSSL 
MAZZA.IOLL 
F.  BARON. 
NEGKETTI. 
ARTARIA  A  SON.-DUMOLARD 

FRV.RES.— MOLINARI. 
VINCFNZI  A  ROSSI. 
DETKRN.  -DUFRESNE.— 

PKDONE. 
PEDONE. 


Italy, 


PARMA     . 
PISA  . 
PERUGIA. 
ROME 

SIENA       • 
TURIN      . 

VENICE     . 
VERONA    , 


\ 


j.  zanghierl 
nistri.-jos.  vannuochi. 
vincenz.  bartelli.  ;; 

SP!THbVER.~PIALE—      .   «. 

MONALDINI. 
ONORATO  POKRI.  t 

MAOGI.-GIANNINI    FIORBJ^ 

MARIRTTI.— BOCCA  FRBR^; 

HERMAN  P.  MCnSTER—     P 
MEINERS.  .  '  > 

U.  F.  MtJNSTER.  -HENIEII^' 


France, 


AMIENS    . 
ANGERS   .        4 
AVIGNON 
AVRANCHE8    . 
BAYONNE        • 

BORDEAUX      . 

BOULOGNE      . 
BREST      . 
CAEN         •        • 

CALAIS     . 
CHERBOURG    . 
DIEPPE     . 
DINANT   .        . 
DOUAI       . 
DUNKERQUE  . 
GRENOBLE      . 
HAVRE      .       . 

LILLE 
LYONS      . 

MARSRILLE8  . 
METZ        •       • 


GIBRALTAR 
LISBON     . 


ST.  PETERS- 1 
BURG.         J 

Malta, 

BfVIR. 


CARON. 

BARASSE'. 

CLE'MENT  ST.  JUST. 
ANPRAY. 
JAYMEBON.— LASSERRE. 

CHAUMAS.— mCLLER.— SAU* 

VAT.— PERET. 
WATKL.— MKRRIDEW. 
HBBERT. 
BOISARD.  —  LEGOOT.  — CLE- 

RISSE'. 
RIGAUX  CAUX. 
Mllb.  LECOUFFLET. 
MARAIS. 

COSTE.  A 

JACQUART.— LEMALE. 
VANDENBUSSCHE. 
VKLLOT  ET  COM  P. 
COC  H  A  RD.— BOURDIGNON.— 

POUCH ER.—M1IB.  BUYS. 
BE'GHIN. 
AYNE'  FILS.— SCHEURING.— 

MS'RA. 
CAMOTN  fIiERES.— LE 

MEUNIER. 
WARION. 


MONTPBLLIER 
MrLHUUSE  . 
NANCY  .  , 
NANTES   . 


NICB 

ORLEANS. 
PARIS 
PAU  . 

PERPIGNAN    . 
REIMS       . 

ROCHEFORT    . 
RODEN      . 
SAUMUR  . 
ST.  ETIENNE  . 
ST.  MALO. 
ST.  QUENTTN  . 
STRASBOURG  . 

TOULON  . 
TOULOUSE 
TOURS       , 
TROYES   . 


LEVALLE. 

RISLKR. 

GONET. 

GUE'RAFD.— PETTFAS.— 

POIRIER  LEGH08.— AK. 

DRK*.— Mmk.  VLOORS. 
VISCONTI.-GIRAUD.— 

JOUGLA. 
GATI NEAU— PFJITY. 
GALIGNANI.— XAVIER.- 
LAFON.— AUG.  BA8SY. 
JULIA  FR^RES. 
BRISSART  BINBT^— 

GEOPFROY. 
BOUCARD. 

LB  BRUM  ENT.— HAULARD. 
GAULTIER  BRIE'RE. 
DELARUE. 
HUE. 
DOLOY. 
TREUTTEL  ET  WtJRTZ.^ 

GRUCKER. 
MONGE  ET  VILLAMUS. 
G1MET  A  COTELLE. 
GEOKGET. 
LALOY.-DUFEY  ROBERT. 


ROWSWELL. 
MATT.  LEWTA8. 


Spain  and  Portugcd, 


MADRID 
MALAGA 


DURAN..BA1LLIERE. 
PR.  DE  MOYA. 


Etmia, 

I 

lonia/n  Islands,        Constantinople, 


S.  DUFOtJR. 


MOSCOW  . 
ODESSA     . 


CORFU        .    J.W.TAYLOR. 


WICK. 


W.  6AUTIER. 
CAMOIN  FR^RES. 

Greece. 

ATHENS    •  A.  NAST. 


PREFACE. 


^ 


SiHOK  the  publication  of  the  last  edition  of  this  work,  the  Editor  has 
again  had  occasion  to  revisit  most  of  the  localities  described  in  it,  and, 
while  correcting  some  omissions  and  inaccuracies  that  remained,  to  add 
much  new  information  useful  to  the  traveller. 

The  changes  that  have  taken  place  in  the  political  map  of  the  Peninsula, 
arising  out  of  the  great  events  of  1859 — ^the  establishment  of  an  United 
;  Italy — the  extension  of  Bailways — and  the  reclassification  of  several  of 
;  the  most  important  Public  Collections  connected  with  the  Fine  Arts — 
'  have  rendered  considerable  changes  necessary ;  not  only  as  regards  the 
I  ^neral  arrangement,  but  in  the  description  of  most  of  the  great  centres  of 
i  population. 

I  For  the  greater  convenience  of  the  travelling  public,  it  has  been  con- 
sidered advisable  to  adopt  a  different  arrangement  of  the  materials  contained 
in  the  two  first  volumes  of  the  Handbooks  of  Italy,  Instead  of  including 
Tuscany  as  heretofore  in  that  of  Northern,  and  the  Eomagna  in  that 
'  of  Central  Italy,  it  has  appeared  more  useful  to  confine  the  present  volume 
to  the  great  natural  division  of  the  Peninsula,  the  Valley  of  the  Po,  em- 
bracing the  countries  between  the  Alps,  the  Apennines,  and  the  Adriatic ; 
and  to  the  Ligurian  Provinces. 

The   Handbook  of  Central  Italy  will,   therefore,   in  future   embrace 

Tuscany  and  the  off-lying  Islands,  the  Island  of  Sardinia,  the  Eastern 

Legations  or  Marches,  the  great  Province  of  Umbria,  and  the  portion  of 

I  the  Peninsula  which  is  still  held  by  the  Holy  See,  always  excluding  Rome 

itself,  ever  the  Capital  of  Italy,  with  the  classical  region  that  surrounds  it, 

I  and  the  districts  between  Eome  and  Naples.    • 

1^    Great  care  has  been  taken  to  insert  the  latest  and  most  correct  in- 
formation on  the  several  lines  of  communication,  especially  by  means  of 
I  Railways ;  to  obtain  the  most  trustworthy  reports  respecting  Hotels  (often 
i  conflicting)  and  accommodation  for  travellers  generally  ;   to  bring  down 
the  descriptions  of  the  different  public  and  private  Collections  of  Works  of 


vi  PREFACE, 

Art  so  as  to  include  the  most  recent  changes  effected  in  their  arrangement^ 
&c. ;  Plans  of  the  few  Cities  and  Galleries  omitted  in  former  editions 
have  been  now  inserted ;  and  all  the  Railways  in  operation,  or  projected, 
have  been  laid  down  on  the  Maps,  from  the  most  trustworthy  sources. 

It  has  been  the  Editor's  endeavour  to  render  the  Handbooks  of  Italy  as 
complete  guides,  to  the  countries  they  profess  to  describe,  as  exist  in 
any  language;  and  it  is  his  duty  again  to  express  his  acknowledgments 
to  the  numerous  friends  both  in  Italy  and  at  home,  and  to  the  several 
correspondents,  who  have  aided  him  in  his  task  by  the  information  they 
have  transmitted  to  him.  It  is  in  a  great  measure  by  such  means  that 
works  of  this  uature  can  lay  claim  to  that  degree  of  accuracy  which 
the  travelling  public  has  a  right  to  expect;  and  he  begs  still  to  solicit 
of  travellers,  who  may  use  these  Handbooks,  to  transmit  to  him  through 
his  Publisher  any  alterations  they  may  consider  advisable  to  make  here- 
after, founded  upon  information  of  a  practical  and  useful  nature  obtained 
on  the  spot. 

London,  Ma/rcht  1866. 


CONTENTS. 


INTRODUCTION. 

FJLGS 

1.  Plan  of  the  Work — 2.  Passports  and  Custom-houses — 3.  Boutes  — 
4.  Modes  and  Expenses  of  Trayelling  —  5.  Couriers  —  6.  Sight-seeing ; 
Laquais  de  Place  and  Ciceroni  —  7.  Money  —  8.  Inns  and  Accom- 
modations —  9.  Books  — 10.  Maps  of  Italy  — 11.  Objects  to  be  no- 
ticed — 12.  Music  — 13.  Skeleton  Tours ix 

Tables  of  Foreign  Coins  reduced  into  the  difOarent  Currencies  of  Italy,  at 
the  par  of  exchange xxxii 

Table  1.  English  Money  reduced  to  an  equivalent  Yalue  in  the  Money  of 
the  several  States  of  North  Italy xxxiii 

Table  2.  Currency  of  the  different  Italian  States  reduced  into  English 
Money,  at  the  par  of  exchange xxxiv 

Table  3.  Showing  the  Yalue  of  the  different  Measures  of  Distances  em- 
ployed in  Italy,  reduced  to  English  statute  Miles,  Furlongs,  and  Yards  xxxy 

Abbreviations,  Ac,  employed  in  the  Handbook xxxvi 


Sbot.  I.— PIEDMONT  AND  SARDINIAN  LOMBARDY. 

Preliminary  Information  —  Tables  of  Money,  Weights,  and  Measures     -         1 
Boutes .---7 


Sect.  II.— ITALIAN  DOMINIONS  ON  THE  MEDITERRA- 
NEAN—THE RIYIEBA  DI  PONENTE,  AND  RIVIERA 
DI  LEVANTE  —  TERRITORIES  OF  NICE,  MONACO,  AND 
DUCHY  OF  GENOA. 

Preliminary  Information 73 

Boutes 78 


Sect.  III.— LOMBARDY. 

Preliminary  Information 141 

Boutes ^        -        -     160 


'^ 


Vlil  CONTENTS. 

Sect.  IV.— VENETIAN  PEOVINCES. 

PAGB 

Preliminary  Information      -. 285 

Boutea 288 

Sect.  V.— DUCHIES  OF  PABMA  AND  PIACENZA. 

Preliminary  Information 429 

Routes 430 

Sect.  VI.— DUCHY  OP  MODENA. 

Preliminary  Information      ---.-----  459 

Routes 460 

Sect.  VH.— LA  ROMAaNA. 

Preliminary  Information 469 

Routes 470 

Index 683 


LIST    OF    PLANS,    &c. 


»» 


PAGB 

Plan  of  Turin to/ac0    12 

Nice     ..      .       79 

Genoa io  Jo/ae  Vfl 

^  Milan „     175 

Brera  Gallery  at  Milan     213 

Pavia 237 

„  Brescia 262 

„  Verona to /ace  288 

„  Pinacoteca  at  Verona 296 

,,  Mantua        311 

,,  Ducal  Palace  in  Mantua 318 

„  Vicenza        328 

Padua 340 

Venice to  face  358 

„  Pinacoteca  at  Venice        406 

„  Parma 442 

„  Pinacoteca  at  Parma 450 

„  Modena        463 

„  Ferrara        ..      ..      473 

,,  Pinacoteca  at  Ferrara       481 

Bologna        to  face  489 

Pinacoteca  at  Bologna      493 

Ravenna      543 

„  Pinacoteca  at  Forli 573 

Map  of  North  Italy at  (he  end. 


f» 


it 


INTEODUCTION. 


1.  PlcM  of  the  Work,  —  2.  Faaaporta  cmd  Ouiom-homes,  —  3.  jRouie$.  — 
4.  Modes  and  Expenses  of  TraoeJUng.  —  6.  Couriers, — 6.  Sightseeing; 
Laqwiis  de  Flace  cmd  Ciceroni,  —  7.  Money, — 8.  Inns  and  Accommodations, 
— 9.  Books. — 10.  Maps  of  Italy, — 11.  Objects  to  he  noticed.  — 12.  Music. 
— 13.  Skeleton  Tours.  —  Tables  of  Foreign  Coins  reduced  into  the  different 
Currencies  of  Italy, 

1. — Plan  of  the  Wobk. 

This  tenth  edition  of  this  Hondhook  ha?  been  revised  with  a  view  of 
making  it  a  guide  to  the  most  remarkable  places  of  Northern  Italy,  and 
drawing  the  attention  of  the  traveller  to  the  objects  best  worthy  of  being 
noticed.  Reflections  not  contributing  to  this  end  have  been  excluded: 
those  who  desire  remarks  upon  Italy  can  find  books  containing  them  in 
plenty,  from  Forsyth  down  to  the  latest  modern  tourist.  Of  the  objects 
bere  pointed  out  to  the  traveller,  most  have  long  been  thought  worthy  of 
inspection  and  admiration ;  some,  however,  have  not,  but  have  risen  into 
notice  through  a  periodical  fluctuation  of  taste  and  opinions.  These  latter 
are  inserted,  because  some  travellers  will  wish  to  see  them,  and  others 
ought,  in  order  that  they  may  judge  for  themselves,  and  avoid  being  im- 
posed upon. 

The  compiler  of  a  Handbook  is  happily  relieved,  by  the  necessity  of  being 
useful,  from  the  pursuit  of  that  originality  of  a  tourist  which  consists  in 
omitting  to  notice  great  works  because  they  have  been  noticed  by  others, 
and  in  crying  up  some  object  which  has  hitherto  been  deservedly  passed 
over.  It  would,  moreover,  be  out  of  place  for  the  editor  of  a  Guidebook 
of  Italy  to  be  ambitious  of  composing  an  original  work.  Italy  has  been  so 
long  studied,  that  all  its  most  interesting  sites  and  works  have  been  re- 
peatedly and  carefully  described ;  and  so  much  has  been  written,  and  by 
persons  of  ability  and  acquirements,  that  the  most  difficult  task  is  that  of 
compiling  and  of  selecting  materials. 

Although  the  Editor  has  had  the  benefit  of  repeated  personal  examina- 
tion, he  has  not  scrupled  to  use  freely  the  numerous  works  which  treat 
upon  the  subject.  As  it  is  scarcely  possible,  in  the  compass  of  a  Hand- 
book, where  space  is  so  valuable,  to  indicate  where  passages  have  been  ex- 
tracted from,  the  following  works  are  here  mentioned  as  those  which  have 
been  chiefly  used,  in  order  to  protect  the  Editor  from  the  charge  of  borrow- 
ing without  acknowledgment,  and  that  the  traveller  may,  if  he  wishes,  seek 
in  them  further  information.  In  architecture,  Mr.  Gaily  Knight's  work 
on  the  Ecclesiastical  Architecture  of  Italy,  has  been  referred  to  in  most 

a3 


X  1. — Plan  of  the  Work.  Introd. 

cases  in  which  the  buildings  mentioned  in  this  work  have  been  described 
by  him,  and  his  descriptions  and  observations  are  frequently  given.  Pas- 
sages from  Woods'  'Letters  from  an  Architect'  have  been  sometimes 
inserted,  particularly  those  relating  to  the  architecture  of  Palladio  and 
Scamozzi  at  Vicenza  and  Venice,  a  subject  he  has  particularly  studied. 
Some  of  Mr.  Gwilt's  descriptions  of  celebrated  buildings  have  been  taken 
from  his  Encyclopedia  of  Architecture.  For  much  of  the  description  of  the 
Certosa  of  Pavia  and  the  palaces  at  Mantua,  and  of  some  other  places,  the 
Editor  is  indebted  to  the  magnificent  volume  entitled  'La  Certosa  de 
Pavia,'  published  at  Milan,  and  to  the  work  on  *  Fresco  Decorations  and 
Stuccoes  of  Churches  and  Palaces  in  Italy  during  the  Fifteenth  and  Six-  - 
teenth  Centuries,'  by  Mr.  Lewis  Gruner. 

As  some  travellers  may  wish  to  be  informed  respecting  the  produce 
aod  agriculture  of  Italy,  and  as  such  details  usually  lie  in  large  un- 
readable books,  a  short  summary  of  information  on  these  subjects,  taken 
chiefly  from  the  Papers  presented  to  Parliament  by  the  Board  of  Trade, 
is  inserted. 

Considerable  assistance  has  been  derived  from  the  Guides  produced  for 
the  use  of  the  Scienziati  Italiani,  at  their  annual  meetings.  Those  of  Genoa, 
Milan,  Padua,  and  Venice  are  elaborate  works,  and  full  of  useful  and  in- 
teresting matter. 

A  few  remarks  are  inserted  on  works  of  art,  derived  from  persons  whose 
opinions  are  of  weight ;  and,  although  the  remarks  may  not  be  assented  to 
by  some  travellers,  at  least  they  are  worthy  of  consideration.  Flaxman's 
Lectures  have  supplied  some  remarks  on  sculpture ;  and  for  others  the 
Editor  is  indebted  to  artists  whose  names  will  be  found  appended  to  their 
remarks. 

Although  we  have  endeavoured  to  apportion  the  extent  of  our  remarks  to 
the  importance  of  the  subjects  described,  we  have  considered  it  useful  to 
place  in  the  hands  of  our  readers  more  detailed  catalogues  of  the  different 
galleries  than  appeared  in  the  former  editions  of  the  Handbook,  in  many 
cases  there  being  no  printed  catalogue  at  all  (as  in  those  of  the  Galleries 
at  Parma,  Ferrara,  Forli,  &c.),  and  in  others  where  these  catalogues  are 
hand-lists  which  the  traveller  cannot  carry  away ;  whilst  many  may  be 
glad  to  preserve  in  their  own  language  a  kind  of  record  of  the  objects 
they  have  seen  during  their  artistical  peregrinations,  without  being  put  to 
the  inconvenience  of  making  unnecessary  notes.  Ground-plans  of  all  the 
most  remarkable  galleries,  made  by  the  editor  on  the  spot,  have  been 
also  added. 

The  historical  and  literary  notices  have  been  rendered  as  brief  as  possible. 
In  a  subsequent  section  (9)  we  have  pointed  out  from  what  sources  our 
deficiencies  may  be  partly  supplied.  A  few  anecdotes  and  citations  have 
^^een  occasionally  introduced,  which,  by  creating  an  additional  interest,  may- 
be useful  in  fixing  the  scene  in  the  tjaveller's  memory. 


2. — Pabbpobts  and  Cubtom-housbs. 

Every  English  traveller  proceeding  to  Italy,  or  indeed  to  any  part  of  the 
Continent   before  leaving  London  ought  to  procure  a  passport  from  the 


Inta-od.  2. — Passports  and  Custom-houses,  xi 

Foreign  Office,  which  costs  2«.,  it  heing  the  best  certificate  of  his  natt<mality^ 
and  obtain  in  London  the  visas  of  the  Ministers  of  all  the  principal 
powers  through  whose  territories  he  intends  to  pass :  a  great  deal  of  trouble 
is  thus  saved.  A  Foreign  Office  passport  ought  always  to  he  carried  hy 
^^  ^raveZ^er,  although,  since  the  recent  abolition  of  passports  at  the  Austrian 
frontiers,  it  will  be  only  demanded  in  extreme  cases  in  any  part  of  Italy, 
except  in  the  Papal  States.  If  a  passport  be  not  obtained  before  leaving 
England,  one  can  be  procured  at  the  British  Embassies  in  Paris  or 
Brussels,  taking  care  to  obtain  the  needful  visas  of  the  legations  of  those 
states  through  which  you  will  have  to  jiass.  It  will  always  be  advisable 
to  have  inserted  in  the  passport  the  number  of  persons  composing  a 
family,  with  the  names  of  the  servants,  stating  whether  British  subjects  or 
foreigners.  The  Papal  authorities  require  the  visa  of  their  own  agents, 
which  may  be  obtained  at  the  missions  in  Paris  and  other  continental 
capitals,  and  for  wWch  a  fee  is  charged ;  or  still  better,  by  the  Roman 
consuls  at  Marseilles  and  other  French  ports.  The  Government  of  North 
Italy  has  abolished  the  necessity  of  all  visas  to  passports  issued  by  the 
British  and  United  States  Secretaries  of  State.* 

With  respect  to  Oitstom-hotises : — When  travellers  arrive  by  a  public 
conveyance,  it  is  in  most  places  usual  to  have  all  the  luggage  opened,  and, 
if  any  cause  for  suspicion  arises,  carefully  searched.  But,  in  the  case  of 
persons  travelling  either  by  vetturino  or  posting,  the  conduct  of  the  officers 
is  usually  different.  They  do  make  a  distinction ;  and  if  you  give  them 
an  assurance  that  there  is  no  prohibited  article  or  book  in  the  luggage, 
— and  a  fee, — the  examination  will  probably  be  dispensed  with  :  you  proffer 
the  keys,  and  a  few  of  the  trunks  are  opened  and  closed  again.  Should  any 
object  appear  out  of  the  common  way,  it  is  possible  that  the  officer  may  ask 
an  explanation,  but  merely  out  of  curiosity.  As  to  administering  fees, 
however,  to  custom-house  officers,  it  is  difficult  to  lay  down  any  positive 
rule.  The  Austrian  and  Italian  officers  would  consider  it  an  insult  to 
be  offered  money ;  they  are  in  general  civil,  but  sometimes  rather  trouble- 
some in  their  search  for  books,  newspapers,  arms,  &c. 


3. — Routes. 

In  the  Handbooks  of  France,  Switzerland,  Savoy,  and  Southern  Germany, 
most  of  the  Routes  leading  into  Italy  have  been  described.  Of  late  years 
the  means  of  travelling  over  them  have  been  materially  facilitated,  both  as 
re:5ards  time  and  expence,  by  the  extension  of  railways ;  most  can  now  be 
travelled  by  railroad  and  by  steamers,  so  that,  even  for  a  family,  that  once 
indispensable  comfort,  a  travelling  carriage,  will  prove  an  almost  useless 
and  expensive  incumbrance. 

«  PkuBsports  are  Issned  daily  at  the  Foreign  OfQce,  on  the  recommendation  of  any  banking 
firm  or  constituted  authority  addressed  to  the  Secretary  of  State.  In  order  to  save  the  traveller 
trouble,  agencies  have  been  established  for  procuring  the  several  visas  and  the  passport  Itself  on 
transmitting  to  them  Uie  recommendation  above  alluded  to,  and  for  a  trifling  remuneration. 
Amongst  those  agents  Messrs.  Lee,  440,  West  Strand,  and  Messrs.  Dorrell  &  Son,  15.,  Charing 
Cross,  can  be  recommended  as  careful  and  trustworthy. 


xu 


S.—Boytes. 


Introd. 


The  following  embrace  all  the  Routei  by  which  the  traveller  can  now  ap- 
proach Italy ;  the  principal  Stations  have  been  inserted,  with  the  time  em- 
ployed on  the  road,  whether  by  rail,  coach,  posting,  or  steamer.  From  this 
list  the  traveller  will  be  able  to  select  his  own  Itinerary — ^the  expense  of 
each  will  of  coarse  depend  on  the  number  of  miles  gone  over,  and  which 
will  be  in  proportion  nearly  to  the  times  stated  opposite  each  of  the  principal 
stations.  Our  calculations  are  made  on  the  supposition  that  the  traveller 
uses  the  quickest  or  express  trains.  On  an  average  the  expenditure  for 
living  at  hotels  may  be  estimated  at  14  or  15  francs  (lis.  2d,  or  12«.  Od.) 
per  diem  for  one  person. 


Route  1. — LondoHt  by  Paris,  Mont 

Cenis,  to  Turin. 

Honn. 

London  to  Paris,  by  Dover  or 
Folkestone        10.} 

Paris  to  8t.  Michel  en  Ifanrienne 
(Bail)         17} 

St.  Michel  to  Snsa  (Coach  or 
Post)  over  the  Mont  Cenis  pass 
(in  the  spring  and  summer 
months')     10 

Susa  to  Turin  (Bail)  ..      ..     1| 

Fares ;— Ist  class,  6Z.  15».  9d.     ^^i 
„         2nd  do.  62.    2«.  Od. 

The  most  expeditious  of  all  the 
highways  into  Italy.  From  Turin 
Genoa  can  be  reached  in  4  hrs., 
Milan  in  8},  Yenice  in  13},  Bologna 
in  6|,  and  Florence  in  12}  by  Bail,  or 
12  by  Bail  and  Steamer  from  Genoa  to 
Leghorn. 


BouTE  2.— By  Paris,  Geneva,  the 
Simplon,  and  Lago  Maggiore,  to 
Milan, 

London  to  Paris  (Bail  and  Steam)  10} 
Paris  to  Geneva  (Bail)       . .      . .   15 
Geneva  to  Sion,  by  Lausanne    . .     6i 
Arona  (Coach  or  Post)       ..      ..23 
Milan  (Bail  by    Novara,    or  by 
Steamer  to  Sesto  and  from  there 
byBail;      3} 


Fares  : — 1st  class,  71.  7«.  Od. 
2nd  do.     51. 158.  Od. 


58} 


$t 


BouTE  3. — London  to  Milan,  by  Ostend, 
Cologne,  Basle,  Lucerne,  the  St. 
Gotlwrd,  and  liago  Maggiore. 

Hours. 
London    to  Cologne,  by  Dover 
and  Ostend  (Bau  and  Steam) . .  21 } 

Basle  (Bail) 13 

Lucerne  (Bail)     4 

Fluellen  (Steam) 3 

Magadino  (Coach  or  Post)        . .  16 

Arona  (Steam)     4} 

Milan(BaU) 3} 

Fares  :— 1st  class,  ^^^ 

„  2nd  do. 

BouTE  4. — London  to  Milan,hy  Paris, 
Basle,  Lucerne,  the  St.Gotbard,  &c. 

London  to  Paris 10}- 

Paris  to  Basle  direct  (Bail)        ..   12 
Basle  to  Milan,  as  by  Bte.  3      . .   31 


Fares : — 1st  class,  72.  lis.  Od. 
2nd  do.   52.  9«.  Od. 


53} 


•t 


BoDTE  5. — London  to  Mitan,  by  Paris, 
Basle,  Zurich,  the  Splugen,  and 
Lake  of  Como. 

London  to  Basle^  as  in  Bte.  4    . .  22^ 

Zurich  (Bail)       3.^ 

Coire(Baa) 5} 

Splugen  to  Colico  (Coach  &  Post)  16 

Como  (Steam)      3} 

Milan  (BaU) 1} 

Fares  :-~<l8t  class,  71.  3s.  Od.       52} 
„  2nd  do.    52.  9s.  Od. 


In  trod. 


3. — BotUes, 


Till 


'Or,  by  Belinzona,  Lago  Maggiore,  &c. 

Hours. 

To  C!oire,  by  last  Boute      . .     . .  31 

Magadino  (Coach) 16 

Arona  (Diligence  and  Steam)  4^ 

Milan 3^ 


55 


Route  6. — London  to  Milan^hy  Oetend, 
Brussels,  Luxembourg,  Basle,  Lu- 
cerne, and  the  St.  Gothard. 

London  to  Brussels,  by  Dover  and 

Ostend       11 

Brussels  by  Luxembourg  and  Stras- 

bnrg  to  Basle  (Bail)        ..      ..18^ 
Basle  to  Lucerne  (Bail)       ..      ..     4 
Lucerne  to  Bellinzona,  by  the  St. 

Gothard  (Steam  and  Diligence)  17^ 
Bellinzsona  to  Milan,  by  Arona 

and  Kovara  (Steam  and  Bail)       8 


Fares  : — 1st  class,  abt.  71.  Ss.  Od, 
2nd  do.  52.  58.  Od, 


59 


>» 


BoiTTE  7. — Lojidon  to  Milan,  by  Brus- 
sels, Basle,  Zurich,  Goire,  the 
Splugen  Pass,  and  Lake  of  Como. 

London  to  Basle,  as  in  Bte.  6  29^ 

Basle  to  Chur  or  Coire  (Bail)    . .  9 
Coire  to  Chiaveuna   and  Oolico 

(Post  and  Diligence)        . .      . .  16 

Coiico  to  Gomo  (Steamer)  . .      . .  3 

Como  to  Milan     1^ 


Fares  : — 1st  class,  abt.  11.  Os.  Od. 
2nd  do.  52.  58.  6(2. 


m 


>> 


These  two  routes  will  be  the  most 
agreeable  and  economical  for  persons 
not  wishing  to  pass  through  Paris. 


Bouts  8. — London  to  Turin  and  Milanj 
by  Brussels,  Basle,  Geneva,  and  the 
Mont  Cenis. 

Hours. 

London  to  Basle,. as  in  Bte.  6     ..  29^ 

Basle  to  Geneva  (Bail)        . .      . .  loj 

Geneva  to  Turin 17^ 

Turin  to  Milan      3^ 


Fares : — 1st  class,  71. 17«.  Od, 
2Qd  do.    51.  188.  4d. 


60 


» 


BouTE  9. — London  to  MUan,  by  Bras- 
sels,  Ba&le,  Lausanne,  Sion,  the 
Simplon  Pass,  and  Lago  Maggiore. 

London  to  Basle,  as  in  Bte.  6   . .     29^ 
Basle  to  Sion,  by  Lausanne,  St. 

Maurice,  Sion  (Bail)        ..      ..  10 J 
Sion  to  Arona,  by  the  Simplon 

(Diligence)        23 

Arona  to  Milan 3^ 


Fares  i—lst  class,  7i.  lOe.  Od.      ^^ 
2nd  do.   51.  Us.  Od, 


») 


Boute  10. — London  to  Verona,  by  Os- 
tend, Cologne,  Munich,  Inspruck, 
and  the  Brenner  Pass. 

London,  by  Ostend  and  Dover,  to 
Cologne  (Bail  and  Steam)     ..   21} 

Munich  (Bail)       15 

Inspruck  (Bail) 5} 

Bolzano  ( Coach) 14} 

Verona  (Bail)       5.> 


Fares : — 1st  class,  91.  7«.  Od. 
2nd  do.    71.  Os.  Od. 


61 


»» 


To  Venice      65 

BouTE  11.^  London  to  Verona,  by 
Paris,  Strasbourg,  Munich,  Inspruck, 
and  the  Brenner  Pass. 


London  to  Paris  (Bail) 
Paris  to  Munich  (Bail) 
Munich  to  Inspruck  (Bail) 
Inspruck  to  Bolzano     . . 
Bolzano  to  Verona 


Fares  : — 1st  class,  91.  5«.  Od. 
„  2nd  do.     62.  ISit.  Od. 


10} 

23^ 

5} 

14} 

59} 


XIV 


3. — Boutes, 


Id  trod. 


Route  12.  —  London  to  Trieste  and 
Venice,  by  Paris,  Strasbiirg,  Munich, 
Yienna,  and  Laibach. 

Hours. 
London  to  Munich  (Rte.  11)       . .   34 

Munich  to  Vienna        12 

Vienna  to  Trieste 15 


61 


Fares: — Ist  class,  111.  10«.  Od. 
„        2nd  do.      8Z.    88.  Od. 

To  Venice 70 

The  journey  from  London  to  Trieste 
by  Paris,  Turin,  Milan,  and  Venice, 
can  be  performed  in  63  hrs.  actual 
travelling^  and  at  an  expense  of — 1st 
class,  9Z.  156.,  or  in  3  days  with  una- 
voidable detentions  from  London,  and 
2}  &om  Paris. 


Route  13.  —  London  to  Trieste  and 
Venice,  by  Ostend,  Cologne,  Munich, 
Vienna,  Laibach,  &c. 

London  to  Cologne      21 J 

Cologne  to  Munich  ..    "..      ..  15^ 

Munich  to  Vienna        12 

Vienna  to  Trieste         15 


Fares  :— 1st  class,  lOZ.  18».  Od. 
2nd  do.      8Z.    8«.  Od. 


V 


London  to  Venice 


64 


73 


Route  14. — London  to  Nice,  by  Paris, 
Marseilles,  and  Toulon. 

London  to  Paris  (Rail  and  Steam)  10| 

Marseilles  (Rail) i6| 

Nice(RaU) 7 


Fares  :— 1st  class,  71.  9s.  Od. 
»         2ud  do.    6Z.  108.  Od. 


34 


Route  15.  —  London  to  Florence,  by 
Paris,  Marseilles,  and  Leghorn. 

Hoars. 
London  to  Marseilles,  as  in  Rte. 

14       27 

Leghorn  (Steam)         27J 

Florence  (Bail) 3 


Fares : — Ist  class,  101. 158.  Oi. 
2nd  do.,  \  less. 


57i 


w 


Route  16.  —  London  to  Florence,  by 
Turin,  Bologna,  Pistoia. 

London  to  Turin  (Rail  and  Coach)  39| 

Bologna  (Rail) 7 

Florence  (Rail) 5^ 


Fares  :— rlst  class,  8Z.  16*.  Od. 
2nd  do.,  \  less. 


51} 


>» 


Route  17.  —  London  to  Florence^  by 
Turin  and  Genoa. 

London  to  Turin  (Rail  &  Coach)  39i 

Genoa  (Rail)        4 

Leghorn  (Steam) 8 

Florence        8 


Fares  :— 1st  class,  9Z.  58.  Od. 
2nd  do. 


54} 


it 


Route  18. — London  to  Genoa,  by  Paris 
and  Turin. 

London  to  Turin  (Rte.  1)    ..      ..   39} 
Turin  to  Genoa 4 


Fares  i—lst  class,  11.  lOe.  Od. 


43} 


Route  19. — London  to  Genoa,  by  Brus- 
sels, Basle,  and  Milan. 

London  to  Aiona,  by  Basle  and 

Lucerne  (Rte.  6)      56 

Arena  to  Genoa 6\ 


Fares: — 1st  class,  71.  68.  Od. 
2nd  do.    5Z.  Il8.  Od. 


62i 


»» 


latrod. 


4. — Modes  of  Travdling —  Vetturini, 


XV 


Route  20. — London  to  Borne,  by  Mar- 
seilles and  Oivita  Yeochia. 

Hours. 

London  to  Marseilles 27^ 

Marseilles     to    Oivita     Yecchia 

(Steam) 38 

Borne     2i 

68 
Fares : — 1st  class,  122.  9$.  Od. 

BouTB  21. — London  to  Borne,  by  Turin. 

To  Turin,  by  Paris      39J 

Leghorn         14 

Rome      19J 

72i 
Fares :— 1st  class,  102. 14«.  6(2. 


Shortest  Routes  to  different  towns 
in  Italy — from  London — in  time  ab- 
solutely employed  in  travelling,  and 
by  quickest  trains. 

Hours. 

To  Turin       39i 

Genoa        43 

Milan ,      43 

Venice       63 

Bologna 46 

Florence 51 

Borne 72} 

Naples       75 


4. — ^MoDKs  OP  Tbavblling — Expenses* 

The  posting  in  Italy  is  inferior  to  that  of  France.  The  postmasters  fre" 
quently  attempt  various  petty  acts  of  imposition,  less  however  in  North  Italy, 
where  the  custom  of  issuing  the  Bolletone  (a  printed  hill,  which  contains 
your  route,  length  of  posts,  and  the  posting  regulations)  prevents  all  dis- 
putes, and  is,  in  fact,  the  Livre  des  Pastes.  For  the  Austrian  dominions 
there  are  oflScial  post-sheets,  which  will  be  delivered  upon  application  at  the 
offices  at  Yerona  and  Yenice.  Although  the  extension  of  railways  renders 
every  day  the  study  of  these  rules  less  necessary,  we  have  given  an  ab- 
stract of  them  under  the  head  of  Yenetia,  Sect.  lY.,  sufficient  for  the  wai\ts 
of  the  traveller,  and  in  the  introductory  information  at  the  head  of  each 
section  of  the  Handbook. 

Vetturmi. — From  the  same  cause  fewer  families  find  it  now  neces- 
sary to  encumber  themselves  with  their  own  carriages,  and  have  recourse 
to  those  of  vetturini,  which,  as  to  neatness  and  comfort,  are  improved^ 
although  their  charges  have  risen  in  proportion.  In  making  an  agree- 
ment it  is  the  custom  for  the  vetturino  to  give  his  employer  a  deposit, 
cajparra,  or  handsel,  a  small  sum  as  a  security  for  the  due  perform- 
ance of  his  contract ;  and,  whether  the  journey  be  shorter  or  longer, 
this  precaution  should  never  be  neglected.  There  are  three  varieties 
in  this  mode  of  travelling : — 1st,  Taking  a  seat  in  a  carriage  jointly 
with  other  parties.  These  are  usually  people  of  the  country ;  and  it  is 
a  mode  of  journeying  which  can  only  suit  a  single  male  traveller,  and 
even  he  must  be  one  who  is  not  very  particular  as  to  comforts.  You 
must  of  course  take  your  meals  entirely  at  the  discretion  of  the  driver, 
who  contracts  to  furnish  board  and  lodging:  your  companions  are  fre- 
quently disagreeable ;  and  none  of  the  regulations  which  prevent  annoy- 
ance in  a  diligence  apply  to  these  private  vehicles.  2nd,  Hiring  a  car- 
riage for  a  party, — a  very  convenient  mode  of  travelling  for  those  who 


^  I 


XV  4. — Diligences — RaU'ways*  lutrod. 

are  not  mucli  pressed  for  time.  A  party  of  six  persons  may  be  conveyed  in 
a  very  decent  carriage,  with  good  horses,  and  an  intelligent  and  civil  driver, 
at  an  expense  of  about  60  francs  per  diem,  going  from  30  to  40  miles ;  and 
if  you  get  a  return  carriage  (which  at  Nice  or  Genoa  one  sometimes 
can)  for  a  little  less.  When  a  carriage  is  thus  hired,  the  vetturino  will,  if 
required,  contract  to  provide  board  and  lodging.  In  Tuscany  and  the  Papal 
States  this  answers  very  well.  In  other  parts  it  is  neither  needful  nor  advis- 
able, and  you  should  stipulate  that  you  are  to  go  to  what  houses  you  please. 
Also  always  sign  an  agreement  in  writing  expressing  the  hire,  the  time 
within  which  the  vetturino  is  to  perform  the  journey,  the  stay  he  is  to  make 
at  each  place,  and  the  daily  indemnity  to  which  he  will  be  entitled  in  case 
of  detention  on  the  part  of  the  traveller,  and  make  the  vetturino  sign  the 
duplicate.  Two  forms  of  such  documents,  with  directions  for  filling  them 
up,  will  be  found  in  Murray's  *  Handbook  of  Travel  Talk ' — one  for  a 
traveller  who  engages  a  single  place,  the  other  for  a  party  contracting  for 
the  hire  of  a  whole  carriage.  If  the  driver  gives  you  satisfaction,  he  expects 
a  huona  jnano,  about  3  or  4  francs  per  diem.  The  3rd  mode  is  for  one  or 
two  individuals  to  hire  a  ccUessa  or  other  small  and  light  carriage,  generally 
for  short  distances,  and  for  not  more  than  a  day  or  two.  This  is  often  very 
convenient  in  making  out  pieces  of  a  journey,  particularly  for  the  purpose 
of  seeing  places  where  the  diligence  does  not  stop,  but  it  is  liable  to  some 
inconvenience.  The  vetturini  who  do  these  jobs  are  usually  of  an  inferior 
class,  and  will  often  attempt  to  play  tricks  upon  the  traveller,  some- 
times refusing  to  go  as  far  as  the  intended  point,  sometimes  transferring 
him  to  another  vetturino,  and  generally  contriving,  with  much  ingenuity, 
to  find  a  pretext  for  placing  some  other  companion  in  the  vacant  seat  beside 
you. 

Diligences. — The  number  of  these  conveyances  has  very  much  diminished 
in  consequence  of  the  extension  of  railways.  The  most  important  now 
are : — From  St.  Michel,  where  the  Victor  Emanuel  Ilailway  ends  for  the 
present,  to  Susa  over  the  Mont  Cenis  ;  between  Turin  and  Nice,  or  rather 
from  the  railway  station  at  Cuneo,  crossing  the  Col  di  Tenda ;  from  Nice  to 
Genoa,  along  the  Riviera  di  Ponente;  from  Genoa  to  Spezia,  along  the 
Riviera  di  Levante ;  from  Como  to  Lecco ;  from  Brescia  to  Cremona ; 
from  Cremona  to  Parma  and  Piacenza ;  from  Parma  to  Ponte  di  Lago 
Scuro ;  and  from  Parma  to  Sarzana  across  the  Cisa  Pass.  There  are  regular 
conveyances  from  almost  all  the  larger  towns  to  the  localities  in  the  vicinity. 
Such  are  the  so-called  diligences  from  Bergamo  to  the  Yal  Brembana, 
Brescia  to  the  Val  Camonica  and  Lake  of  Iseo,  Vicenza  to  Scio  and  Bas- 
sano,  Treviso  to  Belluno,  Mantua  to  Este,  Faenza  to  Florence,  by  Mar- 
radi,  &c. 

Railways. — Numerous  railroads  have  been  opened  of  late  years  in 
Northern  Italy;  indeed  this  country  now  is  little  behind  others  on 
the  Continent  as  regards  railway  communication.  A  short  line  from 
Milan  to  Monza  and  Como  (28  English  miles).  The  great  line  from 
Milan  to  Venice,  through  Bergamo,  Brescia,  Verona,  Vicenza,  and  Padua, 
to  Venice,  with  lines  from  Mestre  to  Trieste  and  Vienna,  by  Treviso, 
Pordenone,  and  Udine;  from  Verona  to  Mantua;  and  from  Verona 
to  Bolzano  (Botzen)  in  the  Tyrol  by  Roveredo  and  Trento.  The  railway, 
from  Turin  to  Genoa  (102  English  miles)  passes  by  Asti,  Alessandria, 


Introd.  *4. — MaUvx^s — Ecspenses,  xvii 

md  Novi,  and,  piercing  the  central  ridge  of  the  Apennines  by  the 
great  tunnel  of  Busalla,  performs  the  whole  distance  from  Turin  in 
I  hours.  From  Alessandria  to  Piacenza,  Parma,  Modena,  Bologna, 
Rimini,  and  Ancona,  this  line  is  now  open  to  Brindisi  and  Gioja,  and  ere  long 
will  be  extended  to  Naples  by  way  of  Foggia  and  Benevento,  and  to  Home 
through  Foligno,  Spoleto,  and  Terni.  The  line  from  Alessandria  to  Arona, 
•  on  the  Lago  Maggiore,  crossing  the  Po  at  Valenza,  from  the  main  Turin 
and  Genoa  trunk,  is  in  activity,  and,  when  prolonged  into  Switzerland  as  is 
proposed,  will  secure  to  Genoa  a  great  part  of  the  trade  of  that  country,  to, 
the  detriment  of  Marseilles.  The  line  from  Turin  to  Cuneo  is  also  open 
as  well  as  those  from  Turin  to  Susa  and  Pinerolo.  That  from  Turin 
to  Yercelli,  Novara,  and  Milan,  with  branches  to  Ivrea,  Biella,  and  the 
Lake  ofOrta  on  one  side,  and  from  Vercelli  to  Casale,  Yalenza,  and 
Alessandria,  afford,  with  the  branch  to  Arona,  the  quickest  means  of 
reaching  the  Lago  Maggiore  and  the  eastern  parts  of  Switzerland ;  from 
Milan  to  Pavia  and  Valenza^  being  now  the  shortest  route  between  the 
Lombard  capital  and  Genoa;  from  Milan  to  Piacenza,  where  it  joins 
the  great  line  to  Bologna  and  Lecce ;  from  Milan  to  Crema  and  Cremona ; 
and  from  Pavia  to  Oasteggio.  A  short  line  has  been  op^ied  between 
Genoa  and  Yoltri  along  the  Kiviera  di  Ponente ;  and  lines  are  in  progress 
from  Nice  to  Genoa,  and  from  the  latter  to  the  Tuscan  frontier;  the  portion 
of  which,  from  Spezia  to  Pisa  and  Florence,  is  already  open ;  from  Castel 
Bolognese,  on  the  Bologna  and  Ancona  line,  to  Eavenna,  and  from  Bologna 
toFerrara. 

Eix^[^en8€8  of  TraveUimg  in  Italy, — No  question  is  more  frequently  asked, 
and  few  so  difficult  to  answer,  as  that  relative  to  the  expenditure  to  be 
incurred  in  a  journey  through,  or  an  excursion  into,  Italy.  Now  that 
people  of  all  classes  are  obliged  to  adopt  the  same  means  of  locomotion, 
railways,  a  nearer  approximation  can  be  reached.  This  will,  however, 
depend  on  the  length  of  ground  gone  over  in  a  given  time.  For  bachelors,  who 
travel  for  the  purpose  of  seeing  the  country,  and  whose  railway  expenses  each 
day  will  consequently  be  inconsiderable,  we  should  say  that  20  francs  ought 
to  cover  all  charges,  but  of  late  years  every  item  of  expenditure  has 
increased  upwards  of  30  per  cent.  On  this  subject  we  cannot  convey 
more  practical  information  than  what  has  been  transmitted  to  us  by  one 
of  our  correspondents,  respecting  the  outlay  for  himself  and  party  during 
an  autumnal  tour  last  year. 

"  Three  gentlemen  spent  five  weeks  in  Italy  in  the  months  of  August  and 
September.  They  started  from  Paris,  went  across  the  Mont  Cenis  through 
Turin  and  Genoa  (staying  at  each  place  two  nights) ;  by  Spezzia  to  Pisa, 
to  Florence  (stayed  four  nights) ;  to  Bologna  (stayed  two  nights),  Mantua, 
Venice  (stayed  five  nights),  Padua,  Verona,  Milan  (two  nights) ;  crossed 
the  St.  Gothard,  Lucerne  (two  nights),  Basle,  Vesone,  and  Paris  ;  and  the 
total  expenses  averaged  23  francs  per  day  for  each  person.  1'hey  travelled 
by  rail,  first  and  second  class,  by  vettura,  and  by  diligence ;  and  went  to 
the  best  inns,  and  generally  had  a  bottle  of  wine, .  beside  the  vin  ordinaire 
at  dinner.  The  travelling  expenses  amounted  to  913  francs;  the  living 
expenses  to  1225  francs ;  and  the  sundries,  sights,  vis&s  of  passports  to  95 
francs.     The  distance  travelled  exceeded  2000  miles." — (//.  C) 


xN'iii         i5. — Couriers,    6. — Sight-seeing — Laquais  de  Place.    ^  Introd. 

5. — COUBIKBS. 

Couriers  are  an  almost  indispensable  incumbrance  to  families,  and  ta 
bachelors  even,  when  ignorant  of  the  language.  In  another  of  these  Hand- 
books (N,  Germany)  we  have  entered  into  some  detail  on  the  uses  of -such  ser- 
vants, and  on  their  necessary  qualifications.  As  regards  Italy,  the  best  are  cer- 
tainly those  born  in  the  country  ;  and  we  should  strongly  insist  on  a  courier, 
to  accompany  a  family  into  Italy,  being  an  Italian.  The  Italian  courier  is 
in  general  active,  ready  to  do  or  attend  to  any  and  every  thing;  he 
will  serve  if  required  as  a  personal  servant,  and,  understanding  the  lan- 
guage, will  not  refuse  to  act  as  guide  in  large  towns — a  thing  rarely  to 
be  obtained  of  a  German  or  a  Swiss.  There  is  a  place  of  meeting  or 
club  of  Italian  couriers  at  No.  38,  Golden-square,  and  one  of  Germans 
and  Swiss,  12,  Bury-street,  St.  James's,  where  travelling  servants  may  be 
heard  of,  but  in  every  case  it  will  be  well  to  have  their  characters  froin 
the  persons  they  have  travelled  with,  in  addition  to  that  from  their  club 
or  office. 

As  to  honesty,  they  are  all  ready  to  take  advantage  of  their  masters.  In 
addition  to  receiving  very  high  'wages,  10  to  16  guineas  a  month,  they  are 
lodged  and  fed  at  their  expence  in  reality,  i.  e.  the  masters  of  hotels  are 
obliged  to  lodge  and  feed  them,  and,  as  a  general  rule,  they  are  more 
difficult  to  satisfy  in  their  requirements  than  their  employers. 


6. — Sight-seeing — Laquais  db  Place  and  Ciceroni. 

There  are  few  things  more  disagreeable  than  being  led  about  by  a  laquais 
de  placet  and  as  plans  of  all  the  principal  towns  of  Northern  Italy  are 
given  in  the  present  volume,  his  help  will  be  less  indispensable ;  although, 
for  persons  ignorant  of  the  language,  his  services  will  be  useful,  and  in  all 
cases  lead  to  an  economy  in  time,  which  to  most  travellers  will  be  a 
saving  in  money. 

If  you  do  take  a  laquais  de  place — 1st,  Make  him  take  you  to  every- 
place you  wish  to  see,  not  allowing  yourself  to  be  put  off  with,  "  non  o*e 
niente  da  vedere^"*  or  the  like ;  for  he  has  little  notion  of  the  value  of 
any  object ;  and  caprice,  or  some  plan  of  his  own,  or  mere  laziness,  will 
often  make  him  try  to  put  you  off.  2nd,  If  you  have  plenty  of  time  on 
your  hands,  it  is  as  well  to  see  every  object  which  he  recommends,  unless 
it  should  be  evidently  something  quite  absurd.  For  though  in  so  doing 
he  may  have  a  job  in  view — some  shop  kept  by  a  friend  into  which  he 
wishes  to  seduce  you,  some  ally  of  a  custode  for  whom  he  wants  to 
secure  a  huona  manOy  and  thus  usually  occasions  you  a  waste  of  time  and 
iDoney — yet  he  is  sometimes  the  means  of  conducting  you  to  an  object 
which  you  would  have  been  sorry  not  to  have  seen.  A  laquais  de  place 
should  not  be  allowed  to  make  bargains  for  you,  as  the  commission 
which  the  shopkeeper  allows  him  will  be  of  course  paid  out  of  your 
130cket. 

The  churches,  excepting  the  cathedrals,  are,  ujjon  week-days,  usually 
closed  from  twelve  to  three ;  and  during  this  interval,  when  the  sacristan 
takes  his  dinner  and  his  nap,  it  is  hardly  possible  to  obtain  admittance. 
The  clergy  do  not  like  to  have  the  churches  considered  as  shows,  nor 


Introd.  7. — Moviey,     8. — Inns  and  Accommodations,  xix 

are  the  congregations  at  all  indifferent,  as  has  been  asserted,  to  the  con- 
duct of  strangers,  in  walking  about  and  talking  during  Divine  service. 
It  might  perhaps  too  be  suggested  to  our  Protestant  countrymen,  that  they 
are  not  protesting  against  Roman  Catholic  errors  by  behaving  indecorously 
in  churches ;  and  to  reflect  how  they  would  like  to  see  their  own  places  ot 
worship  made  objects  of  show  during  Divine  service. 

In  order  to  enable  the  tourist  to  dispense  as  much  as  possible  with  local 
guides,  we  have  inserted  in  the  description  of  every  town  of  importance 
a  list  of  the  objects  worth  seeing,  arranged  in  topographical  order,  by  means 
of  which,  and  the  plans  annexed,  persons  not  pressed  for  time  can  visit, 
unaided  by  a  laquais  de  place,  the  principal  sights. 

It  will  always  be  a  useful  preliminary  to  the  examination  of  any  city 
to  obtain  a  bird's-eye  view  of  it  from  some  tall  steeple  or  tower. 

7. — Monet. 

The  traveller  will  find  it  to  his  advantage  in  Italy,  even  more  than 
elsewhere,  always  to  make  his  payments  in  the  current  coin  of  the  country 
in  which  he  is  travelling.  Of  all  foreign  money,  French  gold  Napoleons  will 
be  the  best  to  carry,  as  they  pass  current  everywhere,  and  in  many  towns 
their  value  in  the  currency  of  the  place  is  fixed  by  the  authorities.  The 
traveller  going  to  Italy  through  France  would  do  well  to  take  as  many 
with  him  as  he  conveniently  can,  for,  when  cashing  his  letters  of  credit, 
he  vnll  have  to  pay  a  premium  for  gold.  He  should  get  rid  of  his  English 
sovereigns  at  Paris,  Geneva,  or  Marseilles,  where  he  will  generally  obtain 
25  fr.  for  them.  French  money  is  current  through  all  parts  of  the  king- 
dom of  Italy,  as  the  Austrian,  the  Florin  (beware  of  taking  Austrian 
paper  into  Italy) ^  is  in  Venetia.  A  system  has  been  adopted  by  several 
of  the  innkeepers  in  the  larger  towns  of  Austrian  Italy,  Padua,  Venice, 
&c.,  of  making  out  their  bills  in  French  money. 

The  French  gold  Napoleon,  and  its  fractional  parts,  is  now  the  current 
coin  throughout  all  Northern  Italy,  except  Yenetia,  where  it  is  almost 
equally  so,  although  florins,  and  soldi,  &c.,  are  the  official  currency.  In 
the  ancient  provinces  of  the  Sardinian  monarchy,  francs  and  Naix)leons 
are  alone  current, 

8. — Inns  and  Accommodations. 

In  the  large  towns  of  Italy  the  hotels  have  hitherto  been  superior  to  those 
in  French  provincial  cities,  being  comfortable  and  well  kept,  as  at  Turin, 
Milan,  Verona,  Venice,  Genoa,  Pisa,  the  Bagni  di  Lucca,  Leghorn,  and 
Florence.  In  all  these  places  the  resort  of  foreigners  has  enabled  the  pro- 
prietors to  meet  the  expenses  required  for  such  establishments ;  but  this, 
of  course,  cannot  be  the  case  in  places  which  are  not  equally  frequented, 
and  here  the  traveller  will  very  frequently  have  to  content  himself  with 
the  accommodation  of  a  national  or  Italian  inn. 

He  must,  firstly,  when  this  contingency  arrives,  not  expect  a  choice 
and  well-furnished  larder.  The  stock  of  provisions  is  on  the  average  but 
scanty,  and  the  choice  in  this  scanty  stock  limited.  Most  of  the  country 
wines  are  indifferent,  poor,  and  sour,  especially  of  late  years,  since  the 


XX  8. — Inns  and  Aooommodations.  Intixxi. 

vine-disease  has  nearly  destroyed  the  plant.  Even  in  towns  where  the 
houses  are  very  decent,  he  may  he  compelled  to  suhmit  to  meagre  fare,  if 
he  arrives  after  others  have  heen  served.  It  must  always  he  recollected 
also,  that  every  chance  of  inconvenience  is  exceedingly  increased  hy  coming 
in  late  : — *'  Chi  tardi  arriva  maP  aUoggia,'*  as  the  proverh  truly  says.  Even 
in  the  smaller  towns,  however,  the  hotels  have  been  much  improved  of  late 
years,  and  are  fully  on  a  par  with  those  of  France  similarly  situated. 

It  will  be  advisable,  especially  when  the  travelling  party  is  large,  to 
order  rooms  beforehand  by  telegraph. 

Another  source  of  annoyance,  namely,  the  demand  made  upon  your 
purse  at  inns,  is  sometimes  more  particularly  vexatious  in  Italy,  in  conse- 
quence of  the  exactions  being  so  often  accompanied  either  by  such  good 
humour  or  such  appeals  to  your  generosity,  almost  to  your  charity,  as  to  be 
more  difificult  to  parry  than  downright  rudeness  or  extortion.  The  best 
hotels,  though  not  cheap,  are  not  (compared  with  an  English  standard)  ex- 
travagant, and,  if  any  ladies  are  of  the  party,  no  house  except  a  first-rate 
one  should  be  used ;  but  bachelor  travellers  may  frequently  be  comfort- 
ably accommodated,  and  at  a  lower  charge,  at  houses  of  a  second  grade. 
One  great  secret  of  keeping  down  bills  is  to  avoid  having  anything  out  of 
the  common  way.  The  tcMe^hSte  {tavcia  rotonda),  where  it  exists  (it  is 
now  common  in  the  large  towns),  should  be  preferr^. 

Ask  the  price  of  everything  beforehand,  and  never  scruple  to  bargain. 
This  is  an  unpleasant  operation  to  our  English  tastes,  but  it  is  the 
custom  of  the  country :  no  offence  is  taken,  or  even  suspected,  and  you 
are  only  considered  an  inexperienced  traveller  if  you  do  not.  Amongst 
other  reasons,  innkeepers  always  suppose  that  every  Englishman  likes 
to  have  the  best  of  everything,  especially  at  dinner :  and  therefore, 
even  where  no  overcharge  is  practised,  you  are  often  put  to  needless 
expense  by  having  more,  and  greater  variety,  than  you  desire  or  care 
for;  thus,  by  explaining  the  number  of  dishes  you  want,  you  bring 
them  within  bounds.  In  ordering  wines,  when  you  have  chosen  your 
kindy  order  the  cheapest  quality,  for  in  small  towns  the  chance  is  ten 
to  one  that  they  have  no  other,  and  you  only  pay  for  the  name.  If  ex- 
orbitant charges  be  made,  the  best  plan,  if  you  have  nerve  enough,  is 
to  refuse  to  pay  them,  putting  down  a  reasonable  sum  upon  the  table. 
Where  expostulations  have  proved  ineffectual,  travellers  not  unfrequently 
enter  cautions  against  the  offending  jjarty  in  the  travellers'  books  at 
other  inns  alono;  the  road,  as  a  warning  to  others,  and  sometimes  commu- 
nicate their  complaints  to  the  Editor  of  these  Handbooks,  requesting  him 
to  endeavour  to  redress  the  grievance  by  noting  the  offence  in  future  edi- 
tions. Where  the  complaint  has  heen  properly  authenticated,  and  the  case 
shows  palpable  imposition  and  injustice  on  the  part  of  the  innkeeper,  we 
have  agreed,  in  some  instances,  to  place  a  note  against  the  name  of  the 
house,  or  to  omit  it  altogether.  Travellers,  however,  who  resort  to  this 
expedient,  ought  to  reflect  well  beforehand  whether  they  are  quite  in 
the  right,  and  the  innkeeper  in  the  wrong ;  and  consider  how  a  hasty 
accusation  may  inflict  serious  injury  on  an  honest  man  and  his  family 
The  simple  threat  of  making  such  a  complaint  may,  in  some  cases, 
infuse  a  salutary  terror,  so  as  to  produce  the  desired  effect — a  remedy  of 
the  abuse. 


lotrod.  9. — Boohs. 


XXI 


The  hiMfWrmano  to  cfervants  and  waiters  is  a  source  of  trouble ;  to  those 
who  travel  with  couriers  advice  is  needless :  to  those  who  must  decide 
for  themselves  what  to  give,  the  following  suggestions  are  offered.  The 
best  plan  is  to  give  (in  the  presence  of  some  other  servant)  a  sum  to  the 
head- waiter  to  be  distributed.  In  the  principal  towns,  for  a  single  day, 
for  one  person,  a  franc  will  be  sufficient.  Of  course  the  rate  of  payment 
is  proportionally  reduced  when  the  traveller's  stay  is  prolonged,  or  where 
severed  persons  are  travelling  in  the  same  party ;  and  in  small  country 
inns  about  two-thirds  of  the  above  is  enou^.  After  a  certain  stay, 
the  chambermaid,  too,  receives  a  gratuity.  The  excellent  system  of 
chaining  the  gratuity  to  servants  in  the  bill  is  become  very  general  in 
Italy,  and  ought  to  be  encoumged  by  travellers.  When  dining  at  a 
Trattoria,  80  c.  are  enough  for  the  waiter. 


9. — Books, 

A  traveller  whose  mind  is  not  previously  prepared  for  a  visit  to  Italy  is 
deprived  of  the  greatest  portion  of  the  pleasure  (to  say  nothing  of  the  in- 
struction) which  he  would  otherwise  derive.  This  observation  is  true 
of  every  part  of  the  world ;  but  the  extent  and  variety  of  interest  attach- 
ing to  the  scenery,  the  cities,  the  churches,  the  castles,  the  palaces,  the 
works  of  art  in  Italy,  renders  the  amount  of  loss  much  heavier  than  in  any 
other  country ;  we  shall  therefore  venture  to  give  a  short  list  of  the  works 
which  we  would  recommend,  for  the  purpose  of  affording  a  small  portion 
of  the  information  which  may  be  required. 

History* — To  those  who  are  willing  to  devote  the  time  we  should 
strongly  recommend  the  attentive  perusal  of  Sismondi's  great  work,  Histoire 
des  Repuhliques  ItaZiennes,  As  a  narrator,  Sismondi  has  peculiar  clearness : 
without  attempting  effect,  he  is  always  interesting.  The  great  difficulty 
in  affording  a  general  view  of  Italian  history  arises  from  the  necessity 
which  the  historian  is  under  of  constantly  shifting  the  scene,  from  Florence 
to  Venice,  from  Naples  to  Milan,  &c.  &c.  Sismondi,  with  singular  ability, 
has  interwoven  the  history  of  the  several  states  without  perplexing  the 
narrative.  There  is  hardly  a  place  of  any  importance  in  Italy  which  is  not 
more  or  less  noticed  in  this  work,  which  contains  the  very  pith  of  Italian 
history  in  more  modem  times. 

For  the  history  of  particular  states,  the  following  may  be  recom- 
mended : — 

Venice, — Darn's  history  is  very  entertaining  and  clear,  but  must  be 
read  with  caution,  for  it  was  written  with  the  feeling  of  placing  the 
republic  in  an  unfavourable  light,  and  thus  justifying  the  faithless  conduct 
of  Napoleon  in  subverting  it,  and  delivering  it  over  to  Austria. 

Tuscany. — Pignotti :  No  depth  of  thought,  and  by  no  means  impartial, 
but  perhaps  the  best  as  regards  the  Grand  Ducal  period.  MachiaveUi  should 
be  read,  but  he  is  rather  a  difficult  writer. 

Milan, —  Verri^s  history  is  the  best  of  his  native  city ;  the  style  is  elegant 
the  remarks  philosophical,  and  the  narrative  impartial. 

Fine  Arts, — The  work  of  Vasari  is  both  entertaining  and  full  of  valuable 
information  not  to  be  obtained  elsewhere ;  and  the  book,  heretofore  so 


xsii  9. — Books.  Introd. 

nnreadable,  has  been  reprinted  in  an  economical  and  portable  form  by 
Lemonnier  of  Florence,  1850-53.  This  edition  is  by  far  the  most  useful 
hitherto  published,  each  Life  being  accompanied  by  copious  notes,  pointing 
out,  amongst  other  things,  where  the  different  works  of  art  mentioned  by 
Vasari  are  now  to  be  found.* 

"  The  plan  of  the  book  was  suggested  in  a  familiar  conversation  which. 
took  place  at  Naples,  somewhile  in  ihe  year  1544,  at  a  supper  in  the  house 
of  the  Cardinal  Pamese.  Amongst  the  company  was  Paolo  Giovio,  who 
had  then  composed  his  well-known  work,  the  *  Vitas  lUustrium  Virorum.* 
The  book  does  not  appear  to  have  been  published,  but  it  had  probably  been 
circulated  in  manuscript,  as  was  then  much  the  custom  in  the  litei-ary 
world.  Giovio  wished  to  append  a  biogTaphy  of  artists  from  the  time  of 
Gimabue,  upon  whose  productions,  as  Yasari  says,  he  began  to  discourse 
with  judgment  and  knowledge  of  art,  making,  however,  terrible  mistakes 
with  respect  to  the  artists  themselves,  confounding  names,  surnames,  birth- 
places, and  specimens.  In  reply  to  a  question  put  by  the  Cardinal,  Vasari 
replied  that  such  a  biography  would  be  very  instructive,  if  compiled  with 
accuracy ;  and  the  company,  amongst  whom  was  Annibal  Caro,  joined  in 
urging  him  to  undertake  the  task  of  giving  a  better  outline  to  Giovio. 
This  he  did.  And  he  performed  his  task  so  satisfactorily,  that,  when  the 
sketch  was  presented  to  Giovio,  the  latter  declined  using  it,  and  advised 
Vasari  to  complete  the  book  for  himself. 

"  Vasari,  ever  since  his  youth,  had  been  collecting  materials  for  such  a 
work,  yet  the  instinct  of  authorship  was  not  strong  upon  him.     He  hesi- 
tated—asked advice — a  rare  thing  in  authors — and  what  is  still  more  rare, 
he  took  it ;  and  his  advisers  were  sound — Annibal  Caro,  Molza,  Tolomei  ; 
and  he  worked  diligently,,  until,  being  urged  by  Cosmo  to  bring  it  out,  the 
first  edition  was  printed  at  the  grand-ducal  press,  and  under  the  special 
auspices  of  his  patron.     In  this  first  edition  he  inserted  no  Life  of  any  con- 
temporary, excepting  that  of  Michael  Angelo,  who  received  the  presentation 
copy  with  great  pleasure,  testifying  his  gratitude  by  a  sonnet,  a  thing,  like 
most  complimentary  poems,  a  column  of  fine  words,  containing  an  infinite- 
simal quantity  of  meaning.     Still  the  sonnet  was  a  high  token  of  approba- 
tion, and  it  increased  the  intimacy  subsisting  between  them ;   and  this 
friendship  enabled  Vasari  to  profit  the  more  by  the  verbal  information 
received  from  Michael  Angelo,  as  well  as  by  his  correspondence.     Other 
valuable  materials  Vasari  obtained  from  the  manuscripts  of  Ghirlandajo, 
Ghiberti,  Rafael  d*Urbino,  and  many  more  who  are  not  named.     It  was  the 
custom  in  Florence  for  the  heads  of  families  to  keep  a  book  of  remem- 
brances— *  ricordi,'  as  they  were  termed — of  the  events  happening  to  them- 
selves, their  children,  and  kindred ;  and  from  these  memorials  he  gleaned 
abundantly.    Vasari  was  also  well  versed  in  the  general  and  particular 
history  of  Tuscany  and  the  adjoining  states ;  but  besides  these  sources,  all 
theHraditions  of  art  were  yet  rife  and  lively,  and  much  information  of  the 
greatest  importance  had  been  handed  down  from  mouth  to  mouth.     The 
chain  of  tradition,  if  once  broken,  can  never  be  replaced.     Interesting  as 
such  tradition^  of  art  may  be  in  relation  to  the  personal  anecdotes  they  pre- 

*  An  English  translation  of  Vasari,  by  Mr.  I.  Forater.  in  a  cheap  and  portable  torm^ 
has  been  published  by  Bohn  in  1851,  but  it  only  contains  the  original  text. 


Introd.  9. — Boohs. 


XX  111 


serve,  they  were  perlia{)s  even  more  important  with  respect  to  the  know- 
ledge which  they  imparted  of  the  mechanical  proceedings  employed  hy  the 
artists,  the  identification  of  the  portraits  introduced  in  historical  subjects, 
and  the  meaning  of  allegorical  compositions,  without  which  many  would 
have  remained  unintelligible  mysteries— enigmas  to  be  gazed  at,  and 
nothing  more — like  hieroglyphics  of  which  the  key  is  lost.  For  example, 
the  great  fresco  of  Simon  Memmi  in  the  ancient  chapterhouse  of  Santa 
Maria  Novella,  representing  the  Church  Militant,  in  which  the  portraits  of 
Petrarch  and  Laura  are  introduced,  would,  without  this  aid,  be  completely 
inexplicable." — Quart.  Review,  vol.  Ixvi.  art.  1. 

Vasari  is,  however,  unmethodical,  and  much  prejudiced  in  favour  of  the 
Tuscan  school :  dates  are  frequently  wanting  or  given  incorrectly,  and 
his  works  need  a  continuation  through  subsequent  periods.  Those  who  re- 
quire a  more  accurate  history  of  Italian  painting  will  find  what  they  need 
in  A.  New  History  of  Painting  in  Italy,  from  the  2nd  to  the  XQth  Century,  by 
Signer  Cavalcaselle  and  J.  E.  Crowe,  1864 ;  and  a  shorter  compendium  in 
Kugler's  Haaidhook  of  Painting,  edited  by  Sir  Charles  Eastlake,  P.H.A., 
both  v^th  numerous  and  well-executed  illustrations  of  the  most  celebrated 
paintings  refen*ed  to  in  them. 

Ijanzi  gives  more  ample  particulars,  and  is  especially  useful  in  the  man- 
ner in  which  the  different  schools  are  grouped  together  by  him,  and  an  edition 
has  been  published  in  small  and  portable  volumes ;  but  his  more  methodical 
work  does  not  possess  the  charm  or  interest  of  Vasari's  biographies. 

As  a  portable  work  on  Italian  painters  the  traveller  will  find  no 
work  in  a  small  space  so  useful  as  the  Biographical  Catalogue  of  Italian 
Painters,  by -Miss  Farquhar  (1  vol.  12mo.,  Murray,  1855):  indeed  it  may 
be  considered  as  a  necessary  companion  or  supplement  to  the  Handbooks 
of  Italy ;  except  in  rare  cases  the  artist  even  will  find  in  it  all  the  bio- 
graphical details  necessary  for  his  purpose,  with  indications  of  the  principal 
woTks  of  each  painter,  and  a  very  clear  view  of  the  connexion  of  the 
different  schools  with  each  other. 

The  pubhcations  of  the  Arundel  Society  ought  to  be  in  the  possession  of 
every  lover  of  Italian  art.  The  execution  of  the  drawings,  and  coloured 
copies  of  paintings  of  the  great  masters,  make  them  acceptable  to  all,  and 
their  marvellously  low  price  places  them  within  the  means  of  most  travellers. 

Ticozzi's  Dictionary  of  Painters,  in  2  vols.,  will  be  found  useful. 

A  very  interesting  work  on  the  History  of  Painting  (Storia  delta  Pit- 
turd),  on  the  same  plan  as  that  of  Cicognara  on  Sculpture,  was  published 
by  the  late  Professor  Rossini  of  Pisa;  the  portion  that  has  already  ap- 
peared, embracing  the  earlier  artists  who  preceded  Perugino,  is  very  in- 
teresting, and  accompanied  by  well-executed  outline  engravings  of  some 
chaiffccteristic  works  of  each  master. 

In  Italy  each  great  school  has  had  its  historian  ;  and  there  is  scarcely  an 
artist  of  note  who  has  not  had  his  separate  biographer,  who  may  be 
usefully  consulted  by  the  traveller.  The  Italian  translation  of  Quatre- 
mfere  de  Quincy's  Ltfe  of  Raphael,  by  Longhena,  is  valuable,  from  the 
annotations  of  the  translator. 

Those  who  read  German  will  derive  much  information  from  Rumobr's 
Jtdlienische  Forschuaigen,  which  contain  a  great  deal  of  curious  matter 


xxiv  9.. — Books.     10. — Maps  of  Itdy,  Intarod. 

respecting  early  Tuscan  art ;  and  Passavant's  Life  of  Raphael,  of  which 
a  translation  has  appeared  in  French.  Mailer's  ArcMologie  der  Kunst  is 
also  a  good  guide  for  works  of  art  generally. 

Before  the  publication  of  Mr.  0.  Perkins's  beautiful  work,  History 
of  Tuscan  Scidptors,  2  vols.  4to.,  London,  1864,  Oicognara  was  the  prin- 
cipal authority  on  Italian  sculpture;  but  it  is  bulky,  expensive,  and 
incomplete :  we  notice  it  merely  as  a  book  to  be  consulted. 

Literature, — GinguenS  is  an  interesting,  though  not  always  a  faithful 
guide ;  but  perhaps,  for  the  general  reader,  none  better  can  be  suggested. 

The  reputation  acquired  by  Roscoe's  Lorenzo  de*  Medici  was,  in  some 
degree,  owing  to  the  novelty  of  the  subject.  But  Eoscoe  is  always 
elegant,  and,  so  far  as  literary  history  is  concerned,  fairly  correct.  The 
Italian  edition  of  Eoscoe's  Leo  X,  is  valuable  from  the  notes  appended 
to  it  by  Ticozzi, 

Manzoni's  Novel,  The  Promessi  Sposi,  will  add  much  interest  to  the 
scenery  of  Milan  and  its  vicinity. 

Dante's  Divina  Commedia,  the  small  edition  with  notes  by  Costa  and 
Bianchi,  published  by  Lemonnier  at  Florence,  will  be  found  the  most  con- 
venient. 

10. — Maps  op  Italy. 

General, — The  best  general  Maps  of  Italy  are — those  published  in  1864 
and  1865  by  the  Italian  Government,  in  6  sheets  for  the  N.,  and  in  an  equal 
number  for  the  Neapolitan  Provinces,  and  those  of  Cerri  and  Orgiazzi,  but 
the  two  latter  are  incorrect  in  their  topographical  details.  The  same 
observation  applies  to  nearly  all  the  Maps  of  Italy  published  in  England 
(an  exception  must  be  made,  however,  in  favour  of  Mr.  A.  Keith  John- 
ston's, in  2  sheets),  Germany,  and  France.  We  have  endeavoured  to 
render  those  annexed  to  the  Handbooks  as  accurate  as  possible,  and  from 
the  latest  surveys. 

General  Collegno  published  some  years  since,  at  Paris,  a  useful  Geo- 
logical Map  of  Italy,  founded  on  all  that  was  then  known ;  recent  dis- 
coveries, and  particularly  the  labours  of  our  countryman  Sir  R.  Murchison, 
call  for  a  new  edition  of  it. 

Piedmont  and  Sardinia. — The  Sardinian  Government  has  publfshed 
a  beautiful  Map  of  its  Continental  States,  in  6  sheets,  founded  on  a 
trigonometrical  survey ;  and  a  reduction  of  the  same  in  1  sheet,  which  will 
answer  every  object  of  most  travellers  J  it  is  also  now  issuing  a  detailed 
Map  of  its  Continental  territories  on  a  scale  of  ^^ ;  and  Professor  Sis- 
monda  has  produced  a  beautiful  Geological  Map  of  the  same  portion  of 
the  Italian  kingdom,  based  upon  the  topographical  ones  above  referred  to. 

The  late  General  Alberto  de  la  Marmora  published  a  magnificent  Map  of 
the  Island  of  Sardinia,  in  two  large  sheets,  which  reflects  the  highest 
credit  on  the  talents,  patriotism,  and  liberality  of  that  nobleman,  who 
was  for  several  years  engaged  on  it,  and  completed  the  whole  of  the 
surveys,  almost  at  his  own  expense. 

Venetia/n^Lomhardy. — The  Austrian  Government  has  published  a  very 
detailed  and  beautiful    Map  of   the   Lombardo- Venetian   Kingdom    in 


In  trod.  10. — Maps,     11. — Objiects  to  he  Noticed,  xxv 

80  sheets,  on  a  scale  of  wioo,  and  a  reduction  of  it  in  4  on  that  of  «d\»o ;  the 
latter  contains  everything  necessary  for  the  ordinary  traveller. 

Parma  and  Piacenza,  Modena. — ^Very  accurate  Maps  of  these  duchies, 
on  a  similar  scale  to  that  of  the  great  Map  of  the  Lomtmrdo-Yenetian  king- 
dom, have  heen  also  published  by  the  Austrian  Government. 

Tuscany, — The  Austrian  Government  has  completed,  on  a  scale  of 
^sbj  of  its  surveys  of  Centr|il  Italy.  The  Map  of  Tuscany  by  the 
late  Padre  Inghirami,  in  4  sheets,  is  very  good,  and,  before  the  Austrian 
Survey,  was  by  far  the  best:  it  is  sometimes  erroneous  in  its  topo- 
graphical details ;  but  when  it  is  considered  that  it  was  the  work  of  a 
single  individucd,  who,  almost  unaided  by  his  Government,  not  only 
made  a  trigonometrical  survey  of  the  country,  but  executed  the  topo- 
graphical drawing,  the  highest  praise  is  to  be  given  to  its  reverend  author, 
one  of  a  family  whose  members  have  been  long  known  for  their  learning, 
and  their  services  to  Italian  literature  and  science.  A  very  useful  reduc- 
tion in  one  sheet  of  Inghirami's  Map  has  been  published  at  Florence 
by  Segato. 

Signer  Zuccagni  Orlandini  brought  out  some  years  since  an  Atlas  of  Tus- 
cany, divided  ifito  valleys,  a  convenient  arrangement  enough,  with  very 
useful  statistical  details  at  the  time  respecting  each  valley ;  the  Map  or 
topographical  part  is  copied  from  Inghirami. 

As  to  Zuccagni's  voluminous  and  expensive  work  on  the  Geography  of 
Italy  (^Corografia  delV  Italia)^  the  Maps  are  compiled  from  more  original 
works,  often  with  little  criticism  or  judgment,  and  have  been  rendered 
obsolete  by  the  more  recent  Austrian  surveys. 

The  French  D^pdt  de  la  Marine  has  published  the  survey  of  the  coasts 
of  Italy  from  the  Var  to  the  Bay  of  Naples,  with  detailed  plans  of  their 
harbours,  &c. ;  they  embrace  not  only  the  coast-line  of  the  continent,  but 
the  islands  of  the  Tuscan  Archipelago  lying  off  it — Gorgona,  Elba,  Giglio, 
Monte  Cristo,  Pianosa,  and  Gianutri. 

The  traveller  will  find  at  Artaria's  shop  (Via  di  S.  Margarita)  in  Milan, 
and  at  Maggi*s  (Via  del  Po)  in  Turin,  most  of  the  Maps  of  Italy  that 
have  been   published,   save  those  of  Tuscany  and  Naples,  which  can 
^rarely  be  procured  except  in  these  capitals. 

11. — Objecits  to  be  Noticed. 

Within  the  districts  described  in  this  volume,  some  few  Celtic  remains 
in  Piedmont  and  the  Euganean  hills  are  the  only  vestiges  anterior  to  the 
Roman  domination. 

To  the  era  of  the  Empire  belong  the  amphitheatre  and  gates  of  Verona, 
the  theatre  at  Vicenza,  the  villa  of  Catullus  on  the  Lake  of  Garda,  the 
arch  of  Susa,  the  ruins  of  Velleja,  the  columns  of  San  Lorenzo  at  Milan, 
the  temple  at  Brescia,  and  the  amphitheatre  of  Padua.  Amongst  the  edi- 
fices of  the  Roman  period,  the  amphitheatre  at  Verona  is  the  mbst  remark- 
able ;  .the  arch  of  Susa  is  the  oldest ;  the  other  vestiges  belong  to  the  later 
Emperors ;  but  none  are  in  a  very  pure  style  of  architecture.  The  only 
ones  v^hich  we  can  ascribe  to  the  Augustan  age  (the  arch  of  Susa,  and  the 
Trophaeum  of  Augustus  at  Turbia  near  Nice)  are  rude  in  taste.    To  the  Ira- 

N,  /ita/y— 1866.  6 


XXVI  11. — Objects  to  he  Noticed.  Introd« 

perial  times  belong  the  buried  city  of  Velleia — the  Pompeii  of  Northei 
Italy — and  the  ruins  of  Indus tria  and  of  Luni. 

Amongst  the  museums  of  antiquities,  Turin,  inferior  in  other  departj 
ments,  has  one  of  the  rich  collections  in  Europe  of  Egyptian  antiquities! 
The  museums  of  Parma,  Modena,  Bologna,  Yerona,  Brescia,  Ferrara,  an( 
Forli,  are  of  considerable  local  importance.  Of  Christian  antiquities  during 
the  Roman  period,  or  of  the  middle  age^,  Ravenna  stands  pre-emineni 
for  its  early  ecclesiastical  edifices ;  Milan  and  Yerona  offer  also  remark-' 
able  vestiges.  The  Baptisteries  of  Ravenna,  Novara,  and  Parma,  also' 
belong  to  this  class,  although  there  is  uncertainty  about  their  date.  The ; 
Basilica  of  St.  Mark  at  Yenice,  forms  a  class  of  its  own.  1 

Although  frequently  much  altered,  northern  Italy  abounds  in  magnifi-H 
cent  specimens  of  the  Lombard  style,  called  Romaneeque,  a  variety  of  I 
which  is  familiarly  known  amongst  us  as  Norman.     The  cathedrals    of  ^ 
Verona,    Parma,    and  Modena,    and    the  conventual  churches   of    San" 
Zeno  (Yerona)  and  San  Michele  (Pavia),  are  peculiarly  remarkable.    Most 
of   the  larger  Lombard  churches   are  interesting  from  the  symbolical 
sculptures  on  the  fa9ades,  as  well  as  from  their  impressive   grandeur. 
This  Lombard  style  was  never  entirely  superseded  in  Italy  till  the  revival 
of  classical  architecture :  and,  generally  speaking,  so  many  schools  and 
styles  had  a  coeval  existence  in  Italy,  that  the  data  by  which  we  judge  of 
the  age  of  a  building  in  France  or  England  lose  much  of  their  certainty 
when  applied  here. 

Gothic  or  Pointed  architecture  in  Italy  exhibits  itself  in  many  marked 
varieties,  and  four  distinct  schools  may  be  observed :  (1 .)  The  Tuscan 
or  Itcdian- Gothic,  more  properly  so  called,  remarkable  in  the  earlier  periods 
for  its  simplicity,  and  in  the  latter  for  the  extreme  beauty  of  its  forms. 
(2.)  The  Venetian- Gothic,  of  which  the  great  type  is  the  Palazzo  Ducale 
at  Venice,  and  which  may  be  traced  as  far  west  as  Brescia.  (3.)  The 
Genoese-  Gothic,  more  than  any  other  disclosing  an  imitation  of  the  Arabian 
or  Saracenic  models.  (4.)  The  Lombard- Gothic,  an  exuberant  variety 
of  the  French  and  German,  and  which,  in  the  Duomo  of  Milan,  and 
Certosa  of  Pavia,  attained  transcendent  excellence.* 

Connected  with  the  Italian  churches,  the  CampanUi,  or  bell-towers, 
6ften  detached,  constitute  a  remarkable  feature.  The  Campanili  of 
Cremona,  Modena,  and  Yenice  deserve  attention,  and  in  all  cases  they 
form  a  characteristic  and  pleasing  feature  in  the  scenery  of  Italy.  The 
Circular  Bell-towers  of  Ravenna,  the  most  ancient  of  all,  are  peculiar  to 
that  celebrated  locality. 

So  much  for  the  styles  which  we  commonly  term  mediaeval.  During 
their  prevalence  in  Italy  an  imitation  of  Roman  or  classical  architecture 
had  never  ceased  to  exist.  But  it  had  not  been  usefully  reintroduced 
till  the  times  of  BrtmeUeschi  and  of  L,  B,  Alberti.  The  churches  of 
San  Lorenzo  and  Santo  Spirito  at  Florence  are  noble  examples  of  the 

*  For  more  detailed  information  on  the  different  styles  of  architectmre  met  with  In  Italy  and  its 
monmnents,  we  must  refer  onr  readers  to  Mr.  Fergnsson's  '  Illustrated  Handbook  of  Architec- 
ture '  (2  vols.  Svo.,  1855),  and  '  History  of  Architecture  from  the  Earliest  Times  to  the  Present  Day 
(1862  and  1866);'  to  Mr.  Buskin's  'Stones  of  Venice,'  and  Signer  Selvatico's  work,  for  the  edifices 
of  that  city;  to  Mr.  Street's  work  entitled '  Brick  and  Marble  Architecture  in  Italy'  (1  vol.  8vo., 
1865);  and  for  the  early  Ghriatian  edifices  to  Mr.  Gaily  Knight's  large  work  on  the  Eocle> 
•iasUcal  Architecture  of  Italy,  and  to  Canina's  'Tempi  Christiani,'  l  vol.  foL 


Introd.  11. — Objects  to  he  Noticed,  xxvii 

genius  of  the  first  of  these  great  men.  He  also  possessed  great  influence 
throughout  Italy,  though  few  direct  imitations  of  his  style  appear  out 
of  his  native  city.  Brunelleschi's  tendency  is  to  assimilate  his  Italian 
to  the  Lomhard.  But  others  united  the  Italian  tx)  somewhat  of  Gothic 
feeling,  after  the  manner  which  in  France  has  been  termed  the  style  of 
the  Renaissance ;  and  this  style  in  Italy  has  great  elegance.  The 
facade  of  the  Certosa  of  Pa  via  may  be  mentioned  as  an  example ;  but 
it  is  more  generally  discernible  in  subsidiary  portions,  in  chapels,  and  in 
tombs.  Leon  Battista  Alherti,  one  of  whose  best  works  will  be  found  at 
Mantua  (Sanf  Andrea),  bestowed  extraordinary  thought  upon  church 
architecture :  whilst  Sanmichdiy  Scammozzi^  and  PaUadio  more  peculiarly 
excelled  in  their  civil  buildings,  which  form  the  chief  ornaments  of  Vi- 
oenza  and  Venice.  The  traveller  should  observe  the  edifices  of  Turin 
which  belong  to  a  much  later  period. 

Domestic  architecture,  in  Italy,  affords  a  high  interest.  Its  progress 
may  be  traced  at  least  from  the  15th  century.  The  interiors  of  the  period 
of  the  Renaissance,  which  are  frequently  well  preserved,  should  be  well 
examined,  and  will  well  repay  this  study ;  as  also  will  some  of  the  palaces 
of  Genoa.  In  Venice,  besides  the  great  beauty  of  the  buildings,  the 
ingenuity  of  the  architect  in  adapting  his  plans  to  their  confined  and 
nntoward  sites  will  often  be  found  peculiarly  interesting.  At  Verona 
buildings  of  this  class  have  a  character  of  their  own,  of  strength  and 
elegance  united  in  the  details. 

The  municipal,  buildings  of  Lombardy  are  of  great  and  varied  merit. 
In  the  Town-halls,  or  Brolettos,  of  Como,  Bergamw,  Monza,  and  Brescia, 
the  beauty  of  the  structures  is  enhanced  by  their  varied  styles  of 
decoration. 

The  ancient  military  architecture  of  Italy  has  been  little  attended  to  by 
travellers.  Northern  Italy  abounds  in  noble  mediaaval  strongholds  and  forti- 
fications. The  Scaligerian  castles  in  and  about  Verona  are  peculiarly  inte- 
resting; and  the  Modenese  are  not  only  curious  in  themselves,  but 
interesting  as  being  amongst  the  objects  which  first  tinged  the  mind  of 
Arioslo  with  his  fondness  for  tales  of  chivalry.  In  Italy,  also,  will  be 
found  the  earliest  examples  of  regular  fortification,  by  which  the  ancient 
modes  of  defence  were  superseded. 

Sculpture  in  Italy  offers  a  vast  number  of  objects  of  the  highest  inte- 
rest. The  names  of  Niccolo  and  Giovanni  da  Pisa,  of  Mine  da  Fiesole,  of 
Bambaja,  of  Donatello,  of  Orgagna,  of  Ghiberti,  and  of  Michel  Angelo,  are 
of  world-wide  celebrity;  but  the  merits  of  many  second-rate  Italian  sculp- 
tors have  not  yet  attracted  the  notice  they  deserve  by  the  traveller  from 
beyond  the  Alps. 

Of  all  the  more  remarkable  works  of  sculpture  we  believe  that  we  have 
given  sufficient  notices  ;  and  the  traveller  should  recollect  that  of  some  of 
thd  best  of  the  Italian  sculptors  so  few  specimens  exist,  that,  unless  he 
avails  himself  of  the  opportunity  of  examining  them  where  they  now 
stand,  he  will  never  meet  with  them  again.  Thus,  there  is  scarcely  a  first- 
mte  fragment  of  Luca  deUa  Bohhia  out  of  Tuscany,  or  of  Bamhaja  out 
of  Milan  and  Pavia ;  very  few  works  of  Mino  da  Fiesole  out  of  Florence 
aad  Fiesole ;  no  work  of  BegareUi  out  of  Parma  and  Modena.     They  have 

b  2 


xxviii  11. — Objects  to  be  Noticed.     12. — Music,  Introd. 

rarely  been  mtiltiplied  by  casts,  and,  when  engraved,  the  representations 
have  been  most  inadequate. 

Working  in  the  precious  metals  was  a  branch  of  the  sculptor's  art,  or, 
as  would  be  better  said,  trade,  for,  in  the  earlier  periods  at  least,  they 
followed  it  as  a  craft.  Some  magnificent  specimens,  in  which  enamelled 
work  and  jewels  are  introduced,  exist  as  pale,  or  palliottiy  altar-fronts  or 
coverings.  Those  of  San  Marco  at  Venice,  of  Sant'  Ambrogio  at  Milan, 
are  amongst  the  most  remarkable.  Many  specimens  of  the  same  descrip- 
tion, together  with  votive  offerings,  cups,  vessels,  and  the  like,  are  still 
preserved  in  the  sacristies  of  the  churches. 

Very  early  and  fine  specimens  of  mosaic,  formed  of  prisms  of  coloured 
or  gilded  opaque  glass,  or  enamel,  will  be  found  at  Milan  (San  Ambrogio 
and  San  Lorenzo),  Venice  (San  Marco  and  Torcello),  and  especially  at 
Eavenna,  where  the  finest  and  oldest  works  of  the  kind  exist,  dating  as 
far  back  as  the  6th  cent.  The  art  continued  to  be  practised  at  Veniee 
till  the  16th  century,  but  not  so  late  in  Lombardy.  At  Novara 
and  Cremona,  also,  are  some  curious  specimens  of  early  Christian  tessel- 
ated  pavements.  In  Tuscany,  about  the  13th  century,  a  richer  kind  of 
working  was  introduced,  employing  serpentine,  porphyry,  and  various 
coloured  marbles,  which  mode  of  workmanship  seems  to  have  been  im- 
proved into  the  present  beautiful  Florentine  mosaic  in  pieira  dura.  This 
is  composed  of  rich  natural  mineral  productions,  and  of  the  finest  marbles, 
and  may  be  seen  in  perfection  at  the  Certosa  of  Pavia. 

The  stained  glass  of  Italy  is  exceedingly  beautiful.  In  .the  cathedrals  of 
Milan  and  Bologna  it  is  most  brilliant.  In  Venice  the  colours  are  not  so 
good.  Stained  glass,  however,  does  not  appear  to  have  become  common  : 
there  are  few  examples  of  it  in  the  smaller  churches  or  in  civil  buildings. 


12. — Music. 

"  There  is  no  feature  of  Italy  in  which  the  traveller  is  more  liable  to 
disappointment  than  its  music ;  a  vague  idea  still  pervading  many  persons 
that  Grisis  are  to  be  found  at  every  country  town  opera, — that  the  streets 
are  never  empty  of  singing, — and  that  'all  those  churches,  open  from 
morning  to  night,*  must  mean  organ-playing  and  choral  performance  of 
some  sort  or  other.     Now,  without  stopping  to  point  out  how  a  sweeping 
denial  of  all  this  would  be  as  unfair  to  the  genius  of  a  country  which  has 
been  always  spontaneous,  no  less  than  elaborate,  as  the  sweeping  expecta- 
tion is  ridiculous,  a  word  or  two  may  in  some  degree  protect  the  tourist 
from  disappointment.      In  the  first  place,  he  must  prepare  himself  for  a 
declamatory  style  of  dramatic  singing,  in  which  the  old  French  usages 
(reviled  by  the  Burneys  and  Walpoles)  are  more  nearly  approached  than  is 
agreeable  to  cultivated  taste.     Next  he  must  recollect  that,  save  in  the 
winter  and  at  Carnival  times,  he  will  fall  upon  the  bad  opera  season  at  the 
great  theatres  of  Milan  and  Venice  (*  La  Fenice'  indeed  is  not  open  in 
autumn).     At  the  fairs  a  *  star  or  two'  are  generally  secured  to  add  their 
attractions  to  the  manager's  bill  of  fare ;  and  at  the  second-class  towns, 
such  as  Verona,  Vicenza,  Padua,  there  is  a  chanoe  of  tolerable  average 


Introd.  12- — Music.  xxix 

companies,  but  hardly  singers  of  *  primo  cartello.'  The  best  assemblage, 
I  have  been  told,  is  generally  at  Trieste,  early  in  September,  In  the 
churches,  even  the  Duomo  at  Milan,  and  St.  Mark's,  Venice,  the  perform- 
ances on  high  days  and  holidays  are  nothing  short  of  disastrous.  All  trace, 
moreover,  of  the  fine  unaccompanied  church  music  of  Italy,  most  of  which 
was  perpetuated  by  MS.  copies,  has  vanished  from  the  shops.  Lastly, 
though  Italy  produces  surpassing  instrumentalists,  the  taste  for  instru- 
mental music  hardly  secures  suflBcient  to  maintain  them  at  home.  I  never 
heard  of  an  orchestral  concert,  or  saw  sign  of  a  single  new  composition, 
save  fantasias  on  the  favourite  opera  themes.  This  does  not  sound  very 
tempting :  and  yet  the  dilettante  who  troubles  himself  to  seek,  will,  1 
think,  discern  that  the  sense  of  tune  among  the  people  is  still  living ;  and 
when  he  recollects  that  Eossini  sprang  up  to  amaze  Europe,  at  a  time 
httle  more  promising  than  the  present,  will  pause  ere  he  echoes  the  com- 
mon growl^  *  There  is  no  more  music  in  Italy,' " — H,  F»  G, 


h  3 


XXX 


lS,Shdeton  Tours. 


Introd. 


13.— A  FEW  SKELETON  TOUKS  THROUGH  NORTH 

ITALY.. 


*  * 


The  figares  after  each  station  denote  the  nnmher  of  days  employed  not 
only  in  arriYing  from  the  last  place  noted,  but  the  time  to  be  employed 
in  sight-seeing,  [n  the  description  of  all  the  larger  towns,  a  list  of  the 
objects  most  deserving  of  the  traveller's  attention  is  given  in  their  topo- 
graphical order. 


FiBST  TOUE — OF  ABOUT   THREE  MONTHS  IN  THE  NoRTH  OF  ItALY  ; 
VIBITINQ  EVERYTHING  MOST   DESERVING  OF  NOTICE. 


Days. 
2 
2 
3 


Paris  to  Tmin      

Turin     Btay 

Pinerolo  and  Vaudois  Valleys  . . 
Excursions  in  the  vicinity  of  Tu- 
rin— to  Baconigi,  Oarmagnola, 

and  Guneo        3 

Turin  to  Asti  and  Alessandria  . .     2 

Alessandria  to  Acqui 1 

Alessandria  to  Vercelli  by  Casale    1 
Battle-fields  of  Palestro  to  No- 

vara 1 

Kovara  to  Magenta,  and  return 

to  Novara  and  Arena      . .      . .     1 
Excursions   on   the  Lago  Mag- 
giore ;    journey    to     Laveno, 

Varese,  and  Oomo 2 

Excursions  on  the  Lakes  of  Gomo 
and  Lugano,    and  journey  to 

MUan 3 

Milan     ..'     .. stay    3 

Milan  to  Pavia,  and  return        . .     1 
Milan  to  Monza  and  Lecco        . .     1 

Lecco  to  Bergamo .     1 

Bergamo  to  Lovere,  and  Lake  of 

Iseo 

Brescia 

Cremona        

Desenzano,  and  excursions  to  Sol- 
ferino,  and  sites  on  the  Lake  of 

Garda         

Peschiera  and  Verona ....  stay 
Mantua,  and  return  to  Verona   . . 
Vicenza,  and  to  Padua 
Padua  and  Euganean  Hills 

Venice stay 

Excursions    to    Treviso,    Oone- 
gliano,  Udine,  and  Trieste     . . 


2 
1 
1 


2 
2 
1 
1 
3 
3 


Days. 

Return  to  Venice  by  Steam  or  Bail  1 

Journey  to  Ferrara      1 J 

Bologna stay  2 

Journey  to  Bavenna    . .  and  stay  2 

Bavenna  to  Bimini      1 

Bimini  to  Oesena,  Porli,  Faenza, 
and    Luola,    and    return     to 

Bologna     2 

Bologna  to  Modena  and  Parma  1 
Parma  (stay),  with  excursion  to 

Oolomo,  &c 1 

Parma  to  Piacenza,  stopping  at 
Borgo  S.  Donino,  with  excur- 
sion to  Velleija         2 

Piacenza  to  Gtenoa,  stopping  at 
Tortona,    Voghera,    and    Oas- 

teggio        1 

Genoa stay  3 

Genoa  to  Leghorn  and  Florence  1 

Pisa  and  Florence       1 

Florence  and  environs,  including 

excursion  to  Vallombrosa       . .  7 
Florence  to  Lucca,  stopping  at 

Pistoia  and  Prato 2 

Lucca,  and  Excursion  to  Baths  of 

Lucca        2 

Pietrasanta,  Massa,  Carrara,  and 

Spezia       2 

Spezia  to  Genoa,  and  stay  . .      . .  2 

Genoa  to  Nice      2 

Nice       1 

Toulon,  stopping  at  Fr^jus  and 

Toulon       ..      ..  2 

Toulon  to  Marseilles 1 

Marseilles  to  Paris      I 


87 


IntFod. 


13. — Skeleton  Tours. 


XXXI 


Second  Toitb — op  about  Six  Weeks  in  North  Italy. 


Days. 

Paris  to  Turin      . .      . .  and  stay  3 

Turin  to  Novara,  by  Tercelli     . .  1 

Yercelli  to  Alessandria,  by  Oasale  1 

Noyara  and  Arona      1 

Excursions  on  Lago  Maggiore  . .  2 
Arona  to  Milan,  by  Magenta     . .  1 
Milan  (stay),  with  excursions  to 
Gomo,  Monza,  Favia,  and  Cre- 
mona        ••  6 

Milan  to  Bergamo  and  Brescia  . .  1 
Brescia  to  Desenzano,  with  ex- 
cursions to   Solferino,  and  on 

the  Lago  di  Gkurda 2 

Verona . .  and  stay  1 

Mantua 1 

Verona  to  Padua  (and  stay),  by 

Vicenza,  and  to  Venice  . .      . .  2 


Days. 

Venice 3 

Venice  to  Ferrara        . .  and  stay  1 

Bologna 3 

Bologna  to  Bayenna 2 

Rayenna  to  Bimini      1 

Bimini  to  Bologna       1 

Bologna  to  Modena  and  Parma  2 

Parma  to  Piacenza      1 

Piacenza  to  G^noa,  by  Alessandria  1 

G«noa 2 

Genoa  to  Nice 2 

Nice  to  Toulon . .  1 

By  Marseilles  to  Paris,  stopping 

at  Ayignon  and  Lyons    . .      . .  2 

44 


Thibd  Toue — OF  about  Six  Weeks,  entering  Italy  by  Venice, 


Venice 3 

Padua 1  . 

Ferrara 1 

Bologna 2 

Bayenna        ..  2 

Forli  and  Faienza       1 

Bologna  and  Modena 1 

Modena,  Parma,  and  Piacenza  . .  2 

Piacenza  to  Lodi  and  Milan      . .  1 
Milan  (stay),  and  yisits  to  Monza, 

Oomo,  and  Payia     5. 

Milan  to  Bergamo  and  Brescia  . .  3 
Brescia  to  Lake  of  Garda,  Sol- 
ferino, and  Verona 2 

Verona  to  Vicenza  and  back     . .  1 


Verona  to  Mantua       1 

Mantua  to  Cremona 1 

Cremona  to  Milan,  by  Lodi        . .  1 
Milan  to  Noyara  ana  Lago  Mag- 
giore, Magenta,  &c 2 

Noyara  to  Turin,  by  Vercelli     . .  1 

Turin 2 

Turin  to  Gtenoa    . .      . .  and  stay  3 

Genoa  to  Nice      ..  2 

Nice  to  Toulon  and  Marseilles  . .  1 
Marseilles,    by    Aix,    Ayignon, 

Lyons,  and  Dijon,  to  Paris     . .  3 


42 


Tour  of  about  Three  Weeks  through  a  part  of  Northern  Italy, 
after  visiting  switzerland,  and  returning  to  england  through 
Germany. 


Geneva  to  Turin . .      . .  and  stay  3 
Milan  (and  stay),  visiting  Novara 

and  Magenta 3 

Pavia ..      ..  1 

Bergamo  and  Brescia 1| 

Solferino  and  Verona  . .      ....  2 

Mantua 1 

Vicenza,  Padua,  to  Venice  (and 

stay) 3 


Treviso,  Udine.  and  Trieste 

Vienna 

To  London  or  Paris,  by  Munich, 
Augsbourg,  Frankfort,  Heidel- 
berg, Mayence,  Cologne,  and 
Ostend       ..      ..     ". 


2 
1 


21 


XXX 11 


Tables  of  Currency. 


In  trod. 


Tables  of  Foreign  Moneys  reduced  into  the  different  Currencies  of  Italy y 

at  the  par  of  exchange. 


I.  INTO  FRENCH  AND  ITAIXA.N  CUBBENCT. 


English  Sovereign    .    . 

Crown  of  5  Shillings 

Shilling   .... 
French      Napoleon     d'Or 
20  frs   .     .     .     . 

5  franc  piece     .     . 

1  ditto     .... 
Austrian  Florin  of  3  Lire 

Crown  of  6  Lire     . 

Gold  Sovrana    .     .  • 


Francs. 

25 
6 
1 


20 
5 
1 
2 
5 

34 


-Cen- 
times- 
21 
25 
25 

00 
00 
00 
61 
22 
80 


Tuscan  Scudo  of  10  Pauls 
Dena  of  15  Paul& 
Paul     .... 
Florin.     .     .     . 

Roman  Doppia,  gold 
Scudo,  10  Pauls 
Paul     .... 

Neapolitan      .    .    . 
Scudo  of  12  Carlini 
Carlino      .... 


Francs. 

5 
8 
0 
1 

26 
5 
0 

12 
5 
0 


Gen- 
times. 
60 
40 
56 
40 
87 
37 
54 
99 
09 
42J 


Introd. 


Tables  of  Cwrrenqf, 


XXXlll 


TABiiB  1. — English  Money  reduced  to  an  equivalent  Value  in  the  Money  of 

the  several  States  of  North  Italy, 


EnglUh 

Money, 


£.  t.  d. 

0  0  1 

0  0  2 

0  0  4 

0  0  6 

0  1  0 

0  2  0 

0  a  0 

0  4  0 

0  5  0 

0  10  0 

0  15  0 

1  0  0 

2  0  0 

3  0  0 

4  0  0 


Lira 
ItaUana, 
or  Franc. 


Lira  cent. 

0  lOi 

0  21 

0  42 

0  63 

1  26 

2  52 

3  78 

5  04 

6  30 
12  60 
18  90 
25  21 
50  42 
15  63 

100  84 


Austrian 
Lira. 


a 


Florin. 


Lira  cent. 

0  12 

0  24 

0  48 

0  72 

1  44 

2  89 

4  33 

5  80 
7  25 

14  50 

21  75 

29  00 

58  00 

87  00 

116  00 


Lira 
Itallana, 
or  Franc. 


£.  ».  d, 

5  0  0 

6  0  0 

7  0  0 

8  0  0 

9  0  0 
10  0  0 
20  0  0 
30  0  0 
40  0  0 
50  0  0 
60  0  0 
70  0  0 
80  0  0 
90  0  0 

100  0  0 


Lira  cent, 

126  5 

151  26 

176  47 

201  68 

226  89 

252  10 

504  20 

756  30 

1008  40 

1260  50 

1512  60 

1764  70 

2016  80 

2268  90 

2521  00 


Austrian 
Lira. 

a  Florin. 

lira  cent. 
145    00 

174 

00 

203 

00 

282 

00 

261 

00 

290 

00 

680 

00 

870 

00 

1160 

00 

1456 

00 

1740 

00 

2030 

00 

2820 

00 

2610 

00 

2900 

00 

The  lira  Nuoya  d'ltaliAy  equivalent  to  the  French  Franc^  is  the  current  coin 
throughout  the  kingdom  of  North  Italy. 

The  Austrian  Lira,  equal  to  84  centimes  of  the  Lira  Nova,  and  the  Florin  of 
3  Lire,  are  current  in  the  Venetian  provinces,  and  are  taken,  without  deduc- 
tion, in  the  adjoining  provinces  of  the  Italian  States. 

The  above  Table  has  been  calculated  at  the  par  of  exchange,  t.  e,  at  the  com- 
parative intrinsic  values  of  the  precious  metals  contained  in  the  English 
sovereign  and  the  different  foreign  coins  comprised  in  it. 


XKXIV 


Tables  of  Currency, 


Introd. 


Tablb  2. — Currency  of  the  different  Italian  States  reduced  into  English 

Money  f  at  the  par  of  exchange. 


lombardy 
andVbnicb. 

ENaMSH. 

TUSOANT. 

English. 

ROXE. 

ENOLIgH. 

Naplks. 

1 

English. 

II 

8 

a 

1 

£.  s. 

d. 

* 

» 

• 

m  fit  O 

£,   s,    d. 

• 

-•  JS  1 
1  g-i 

(^  Bu  03 

£.   s.   d. 

Hi 

sac 
0  u  0 

£,    s. 

d. 

0 

1 

U    0 

Ot%it 

0  0  1 

0    0    Ot^ 

0  0  1 

0    0    Oft 

0  0  1 

0    0 

Oft 

0 

10 

0  b 

oA 

0  0  4 

0    0    1^% 

0  0  5 

0    0    2ft 

0  0  5 

0    0 

2 

0 

50 

0    0 

*M 

0  1  0 

0    0    5ft 

0  1  0 

0    0    5ft 

0  1  0 

0    0 

4 

1 

00 

0    0 

84 

0  8  0 

0    0  10t% 

0  2  0 

0    0  10  ft 

0  2  0 

0    0 

8 

2 

00 

0     1 

4i 

0  3  0 

0     I    3ft 

0  3  0 

0    1    3ft 

03  0 

0    1 

0 

3 

00 

0    2 

Oi 

0  4  0 

O    1    9ft 

0  4  0 

0    1    9ft 

0  40 

0    1 

* 

4 

00 

0    2 

9 

0  9  0 

O    2    2ft 

0  5  0 

0    2    2ft 

0  50 

0    1 

8 

6 

00 

0    3 

5i 

1  0  0 

O    4    5ft  1 

1  0  0 

0    4    34 

1  00 

0    3 

44 

10 

00 

0    6  lOi    1 

2  0  0 

0    8  101% 

2  0  0 

0    8    64 

2  0  0 

0    6 

84 

15 

00 

0  10 

4 

3  0  0 

0  13    3ft 

3  00 

0  12    »4 

3  0  0 

0  10 

04 

20 

00 

0  13 

94 

4  0  0 

d  17    9«F 
1    2    2^ 

4  0  0 

0  17    04 

4  0  0 

0  13 

5 

30 

00 

1     0 

8i 

6  0  0 

5  0  0 

1    1    34 

5  0  0 

0  16 

94 

40 

00 

1    7 

7 

10  0  0 

8    4    5 

10  0  0 

2    2    74 

10  0  0 

1  13 

64 

50 

00 

1  14 

5t 

15  0  0 

3    6    7ft 

15  0  0 

3    3  10| 

15  0  0 

2  10 

3* 

60 

00 

2     1 

44 

20  0  0 

4    8  10 

20  0  0 

4    5    24 

20  0  0 

3    7 

1 

70 

00 

2    8 

3f 

30  0  0 

6  13    3 

SO  0  0 

6    7    9* 

30  0  0 

5    0 

74' 

80 

00 

2  15 

2 

40  0  0 

8  17    8 

40  0  0 

8  10    5 

40  0  0 

6  14 

2 

90 

00 

3    1  lOf 

50  0  0 

11    2    1 

50  0  0 

10  13    04 

50  0  0 

1 

8    7 

84 

100 

00 

3    9 

04 

60  0  0 

13    6    6 

60  0  0 

12  15    54 

60  00 

10    1 

3 

200 

00 

6  18 

04 

70  0  0 

15  10  11 

70  0  0 

14  18    24 

70  0  0 

11  14 

94 

300 

00 

10    7 

0* 

80  0  0 

17  15    4 

80  0  0 

17    0  10 

80  0  0 

13    5 

4 

400 

00 

13  16 

1 

90  0  0 

19  19    9 

90  0  0 

19    3    54 

90  0  0 

15    1 

104 

600 

00 

17    5 

14 

100  0  0 

22    4    2 

100  0  0 

21    6    04 

100  0  0 

16  15 

5 

600 

00 

20  14 

14 

200  0  0 

44    8    4 

200  0  0 

42  12    1 

200  0  0 

33  10 

10 

700 

00 

24    3 

If 

300  0  0 

66  12    6 

300  0  0 

63  18    14 

300  0  0 

50    6 

3 

800 

00 

27  12 

2 

400  0  0 

88  16    8 

400  0  0 

85    4    2 

400  0  0 

67    1 

8 

900 

00 

31    1 

24 

500  0  0 

111    0  10 

500  0  0 

106  10    24 

500  0  0 

83  17 

1 

1000 

00 

34  10 

24 

1000  0  0 

222    1    8 

1000  0  0 

212    0    5 

1000  0  0 

167  14 

2 

*  Although  the  former  coinage  of  Tuscany  and  Naples  has  been  withdrawn  from  drculatioQ. 
these  Tables  have  been  retained,  the  ancient  currency  being  sometimes  referred  to. 


In  trod. 


Measures  of  Distances, 


XXXV 


Table  3. — Showing  the  Value  of  the  different  Measures  of  Distances  employed 
in  Italy,  reduced  to  English  statute  Miles,  Furlongs,  and  Yards, 


Foreign  Distances. 

Reduced  to  English. 

Foreign  Distances. 

Beduced  to  English. 

Geographical  Mile     . 
French  Myriametre   . 
Piedmontese  Mile     . 
Milanese  Mile.     .     . 
Venetian  Mile       .     . 
Parma  Sc  Piacenza  M. 
Tuscan  Mile    .     .     • 

Yaid.. 
2,0254 
0,936 
12,697 
1,952 
2,114 
1,619 
1,808 

Miles.  Furl.Tds. 
1        1       45* 
6      1     156 
1      4      60 
1      0    192 
1       1    134 

0  7      79 

1  0     48 

Roman  Mile  .  •  . 
Neapolitan  Mile  .  . 
Anstrian  Mile  of  4000 

klafter  .... 
Roman  Post  of  8  Miles 
Neapolitan  Post  of  8 

Miles      .... 

Tardk 
1,628 
2,435 

8,297 

■  • 

Miles.  Furl.  Tdii. 

0  7      88 

1  S      15 

4      5    155 
7      3      40 

11      0    112 

(  xxxvi  ) 


ABBREVIATIONS,  &c.,  EMPLOYED  IN  THE  HANDBOOK. 

The  points  of  the  compass  are  marked  by  the  letters  N.  S.  E.  W. 

(H.)  right,  (I,)  left, — applied  to  the  banks  of  a  river*  The  right  bank  is  that 
which  lies  on  the  right  hand  of  a  person  looking  down  the  stream,  or  whose  back  is 
turned  towards  the  quarter  from  which  the  current  descends. 

MUes. — Distances  are,  as  far  as  possible,  reduced  to  English  miles ;  when  miles 
are  mentioned  without  any  other  designation,  they  are  understood  to  be  English. 

The  names  of  Inns  precede  the  description  of  every  place  (often  in  a  parenthesis), 
because  the  first  mformation  needed  by  a  traveller  is  where  to  lodge. 

Instead  of  designating  a  town  by  the  vague  words  "large"  or  "small,"  the 
amount  of  its  population,  according  to  the  latest  census,  is  almost  invariably  stated, 
as  presenting  a  more  exact  scale  of  the  importance  and  size  of  the  place. 

In  order  to  avoid  repetition,  the  Boutes  are  preceded  by  a  chapter  of  preliminary 
information;  and  to  facilitate  reference  to  it,  each  division  or  paragraph  is  separately 
numbered. 

Each  Route  is  numbered  with  Arabic  figures,  corresponding  with  those  attached 
to  the  Route  on  the  Map,  which  thus  serves  as  an  Index  to  the  Book. 


^ 


A  HANDBOOK 


FOR 


FRAYELLERS  IN  NORTHERN  ITALY, 


SECTION  I. 


PIEDMONT  AND  SARDINIAN  LOMBAEDY. 


PRELIMINARY  INFORMATION. 

ff 

-  ^  r 

1.  Territory  J  Government.  —  2.  Nature  of  the  Countrt/^  JSxtent^  Population.  — 
3.  LoMguctge.  —  4.  Mim  Arts,  Literature.  —  6.  Posting.  —  6.  Railways,  — 
7.  Money^  WeightSf  Measures,      .    . 

Routes. 

[In  the  tables  of  contents  throughout  this  work  the  names  of  places  are  printed  in  iUUiot  only  in 

those  routes  where  they  are  descrWed."} 


B0T7TB 

1.  Susa  to  2\*ri»— Rail.    - 

2.  Turm  to  Milan, by  Vercelli,  No* 

vara,  and  Magenta— "Rail.  - 

3.  GDurin    to   Milan,  by    CasaUy 

Mortara,  and  Vigevano        - 

4.  Turin  to  Asti,  by  Chieri 

5.  Turin  to  Genoa,  by  Asti,  Ales- 

sandHa,  and  Novi — ^Rail.    - 
P      Uessandria  to  Mortara,  No- 

yara,  and  Arona,  on  the  Lago 

Maggiore — Rail. 
7.  Alessandria   to   Fiacenza,   by 


FAGE 

7 

32 

44 
46 

47 


53 


EOTJTB  PAGE 

Tortona,    VogTtera,    Ca^steg' 
gio 54 

8.  Turin  to  Nice,  by  C(CM*mai^»o?a, 

Samgliano,  Ouneo,  andthe  Col 
di  Tenda     -        .        -        -     58 

9.  TurintoOneglia,byJ5ra,C%fi- 
rasco,  Alba,  and  Ceva  -         -     64 

10.  Turin  to  Oneglia,  by  Possano 
and  Mondovi       -        -        -    67 

11.  Alessandria    to    Savona,    by 

Acqui,  Dego,  and  Montenotte    68 

12.  TurintoSaTona,by3ff7Ze«imo    71 


§  1.   TeBEITOET. — Q-OVEENMENT. 

What  Frederick  said  of  Prussia,  that  it  was  made  up  of  pieces  rapportees,  is 
particularly  applicable  to  the  continental  dominions  of  the  King  of  Sardinia. 
On  the  Italian  side  of  the  Alps,  the  following  are  the  component  parts,  imited 
N.  Baly^lSee,  b 


2  §  1.  Territory — Government.  Sect.  I. 

iinder  the  authority  of  the  present  dynasty: — IHedmont  proper,  the  nucleus 
of  the  kingdom,  gained  from  the  Counts  of  Provence,  by  Peter  Count  of  Savoy, 
m  1220,  and  inherited  from  the  Marchioness  Adelaide,  and  subsequently  an  Im- 
perial donation.  The  Marquisate  of  Siisa,  which,  at  an  earlier  period,  included 
the  greater  part  of  Piedmont,  but  which  was  afterwards  confined  to  narrower 
bounds.  The  Principality  of  Carignano,  a  modem  dismemberment  of  the  Mar- 
quisate of  Susa.  The  Marquisate  of  Ivrea,  ceded  to  Savoy  by  the  Emperors  Fre- 
derick II.  in  1248,  and  Henry  VII.  in  1313.  The  small  Marquisate  of  Ceva^ 
at  the  foot  of  the  Apennines.  The  Lordship  of  Vercelliy  which,  after  several 
ehanges  of  masters,  was  ceded  by  Milan  to  Savoy  in  1427.  The  County  of  Asti, 
ceded  by  Charles  V.  to  Duke  Charles  IV.  in  1531.  The  Marquisate  of 
Saluzzo,  long  contested  by  the  French,  and  which,  though  cutting  into  the  heart 
of  Piedmont,  was  not  fully  acquired  by  the  Dukes  of  Savoy  till  1588.  The 
Duchy  of  Montferrat,  obtained  by  the  Dukes  of  Savoy  in  1630 ;  Val  Sesia  from 
the  Emperor  Leopold  in  1703 ;  the  County  of  Arona  and  the  Province  of  Duomo 
d'Ossola  in  1743  by  the  treaty  of  Worms.  Several  dismemberments  of  the 
Duchy  of  Milan,  namely,  the  Provinces  of  Alessandria,  Tortona,  and  Novaraj 
with  the  Lomellinay  in  1736, ;  the  Oltro  Po  Pavese  in  1743,  subsequjently  con- 
firmed by  the  treaty  of  Aix-la-ChapeUe  in  1748  ;  and,  lastly,  Oneglia,  and  the 
Genoese  territories,  by  the  treaty  of  Vienna  in  1814. 

Previous  to  the  occupation  of  Italy  by  the  French,  these  territories  were 
respectively  governed  by  their  local  laws.  IJnder  Napoleon,  Piedmont  continued 
annexed  to  the  French  Empire ;  and,  since  the  restoration  of  the  House  of  Savoy, 
much  of  the  French  administration  had  been  retained,  in  connexion,  however,  with 
the  original  institutions,  which  had  been  partially  restored.  The  government  since 
1848  is  a  constitutional  monarchy,  consisting  of  a  king,  a  senate,  and  a  chamber 
of  representatives.  The  Dukes  of  Savoy,  as  is  well  known,  acquired  the  regal  title 
at  the  beginning  of  the  last  century.  The  following  is  their  succession  from  the 
time  of  Emanuele  Fihberto  (1553),  by  whom  the  fortunes  of  the  House  were  re- 
stored, and  who  may  be  considered  as  the  founder  of  the  Monarchy  : — 

1580.  Carlo  Emanuele  I.  1773.  Vittorio  Amedeo  III. 

1630.  Vittorio  Amedeo  I.  1796.  Carlo  Emanuele  IV. 

1637.  Francesco  Giacinto.  1802.  Vittorio  Emanuele. 

1638.  Carlo  Emanuele  II.  1821.  Carlo  Fehce. 
1675.  Vittorio  Amedeo  II.  1831.  Carlo  Alberto. 

1730.  Carlo  Emanuele  III.  1849.  Vittorio  Emanuele  II. 

At  the  Congress  of  Vienna,  the  right  of  succession,  in  the  event  (which  hap- 
pened) of  the  failure  of  male  issue  in  the  direct  royal  line  of  Vittorio  Amedeo  II., 
was  secured  to  the  collateral  branch  of  Savoy  Carignan.  The  founder  of  this 
branch  was  Prince  Tomaso  Francesco  (bom  1596,  died  1656),  the  fourth  son  of 
Carlo  Emanuele  I. ;  and  upon  the  death  of  Carlo  FeUce,  without  male  issue, 
the  late  king,  as  the  descendant  of  Tomaso  Francesco,  obtained  the  crown  accord- 
ingly. Defeated  by  the  Austrians  at  Novara  on  the  23rd  of  March,  1849,  he 
abdicated  in  favour  of  his  son,  the  reigning  Monarch,  and  retired  to  Oporto, 
where  he  died  soon  afterwards.  Tlje  royal  family  now  consists  of  his  Majesty 
ViTTOEio  Ehanuele,  King  of  Italy,  King  of  Sardinia,  Cyprus,  and  Jerusalem ; 
Duke  of  Savoy,  Genoa,  &c.  &c. ;  bom  March  14,  1820 ;  ascended  the  throne 
March  23,  1849;  married  April  12,  1842; — and  several  children  by  the  late 
Queen,  Maria  Adelaide  Francesca,  Archduchess  of  Austria,  and  daughter  of  the 
Archduke  Renier ;  bom  June  3,  1822 ; — the  eldest,  Umberto  Carlo  Emanuele, 
Prince  Royal  of  Italy  and  Prince  of  Piedmont,  born  March  14, 1844. 


PiEDMOKT,       §  2.  NaJture  of  the  Country-^Extent — PopuUxtim.  3 

The  constitutional  government  -wtich  has  now  existed  for  seTeral  yeans  in 
Italy  has  gone  on  working  as  favourably  as  the  best  friends  of  Kberal  institutions 
could  have  desired,  affording  a  gratifying  contradiction  to  those  who  have  sup- 
posed the  Italians  unfitted  for  representative  institutions.  In  no  country  on  the 
continent  of  Europe  had  the  representative  system  taken  so  firm  a  root  as  in  the 
Sardinian  dominions,  and,  thanks  to  it,  and  the  good  feeling  and  prudence  of  its 
inhabitants,  whilst  many  other  states  in  the  Peninsula  were  groanmg  under  political 
and  ecclesiastical  oppression.  Piedmont  was  prosperous  under  its  constitutional 
monarchy.  The  supporters  of  the  new  order  of  things  had  many  difficulties  to 
overcome,  arising  out  of  the  war  of  1849 — the  jealousy  of  powerful  neighbours, 
the  openly  avowed  hostihty  of  the  Court  of  Rome,  and  at  home  from  the 
intrigues  of  an  ignorant  aristocracy  and  a  bigoted  clergy  throughout  Italy,  the 
declared  enemies  of  progress  and  of  liberal  government.  Many  of  these 
obstacles  have  disappeared  before  the  fimmess  of  a  popular  sovereign,  a  legisla- 
ture imbued  with  the  principles  of  their  country's  good,  and  an  administration 
following  in  the  steps  of  the  lamented  Count  Cavour, 


§  2.  Nattteb  of  the  Countey. — ^Extent. — Population. 

-  What  may  be  now  called  Piedmont  is  the  country  that  extends  from  the 
Alps  proper  to  the  Maritime  Alps  and  Apennines,  as  far  as  the  Ticino  and 
Trebbia  rivers  on  the  E.,  and  including  the  provinces  of  Turin,  Cuneo,  Ales- 
sandria, Ivrea,  Novara,  and  Pavia,  with  a  small  stripe  of  the  former  Duchy  of 
Piacenza,  having  a  population  of  more  than  3  millions  of  inhabitants.  Like  Lom- 
bardy,  it  offers  three  weU-marked  regions  ;  a  liigher  one  which  extends  to  the 
snow-capped  peaks  of  the  Alps,  where  it  bounds  with  France  and  Switzerland, 
and  to  the  tops  of  the  Maritime  Alps  and  Ligurian  Apennines ;  an  intermediate 
one  consisting  of  subalpine  and  subapennine  hills,  and  of  the  valleys  through 
which  descend  the  tributaries  of  the  Po  j  and  of  a  lower  region  bordering  on 
that  great  river,  and  on  the  course  of  the  streams  that  empty  themselves  into 
it — the  Dora,  the  Sesia,  the  Ticino,  the  Tanaro,  the  Bormida,  and  the  Scrivia. 
The  most  fertile  region  is  the  latter.  In  respect  to  cultivation,  the  principal 
products  are,  in  the  more  elevated  region,  timber,  barley,  potatoes  j  in  the  middle 
one,  vines,  wheat — and,  in  its  lower  part,  maize,  mulberry-trees ;  and  in  the  flat 
region  bordering  on  its  great  watercourses,  com,  rice,  mulberry-trees,  maize. 
The  central  region  is  the  favoured  one  of  the  vine  in  Piedmont,  with  the  grain 
crops,  and  the  silkworms,  the  most  important  of  the  agricultural  productions  of 
the  country.  The  quantity  of  grain  produced  is  not  sufficient  for  the  sustenance 
of  its  population ;  hence  a  good  deal  is  imported  from  Lombardy  and  the  neigh- 
bouring districts  of  the  Emilian  Provinces  and  Homagna. 

The  nature  of  the  agricultural  produce  consumed  for  food  varies  in  different 
parts  of  the  country.  In  the  towns  wheat  is  extensively  used.  The  inhabitants 
of  the  plains  and  low  Trills  of  Piedmont  consume  at  least  as  much  Indian  com 
and  rye  as  wheat.  In  the  Alpine  valleys  wheat  is  an  article  of  luxury,  and  Indian 
com,  potatoes,  rye,  and  buckwheat  are  the  food  of  the  great  majority  of  the  in- 
habitants. In  the  Apennines  and  the  hills  of  Montferrat  chestnuts  form  an 
important  article  of  sustenance ;  and  lastly,  rice,  produced  in  large  quantity  in 
the  provinces  of  Vercelli,  Novara,  and  Lomellina,  is  consumed  in  the  country, 
and  exported  beyond  the  Alps. 

Mamifactures. — Piedmont  proper  has  few  manufactures,  and  none  on  a  large 
scale — none  of  any  importance  as  articles  of  export,  the  great  wealth  of  the 

B  2 


4  §  3.  Language.     §  4.  Fim  Arts — Literature.  Sect.  I. 

country  consiBtiiig  in  its  wines,  which  are  sent  in  large  quantities  to  the  sea- 
coast  and  into  Lombardy;  and  its  silk,  which  is  exported,  ahnost  all  in  an 
unmanufactured  state,  to  France,  Switzerland,  and  especially  .to  England.  Of 
late  years  its  mining  industry  has  attracted  more  attention,  some  works  of 
importance  Imving  been  opened  in  the  higher  Alpine  yalley s  of  the  Dora,  the 
Sesia,  and  the  Ticino. 

The  Fiedmontese  peasantry  are  not  handsome,  but  they  are  strong  and  well 
built,  very  active  and  industrious,  and  form  excellent  soldiers ;  and,  in  the  rural 
districts,  are  very  simple  and  honest.  The  Koman  Catholic  religion  is  the  esta- 
blished and  dominant  creed.  Since  the  accession  of  the  present  sovereign,  the 
Protestants  of  the  Alpine  valleys  are  no  longer  persecuted  as  formerly ;  they  have 
been  even  permitted  to  erect  a  handsome  church  at  Turin,  towards  which  the 
C^ovemment  has  very  liberally  contributed. 

§  3.  Language. 

The  Piedmontese  dialect  has  much  more  analogy  with  the  Provencal  than 
any  other  of  the  Northern  dialects  of  the  Italian.  But  this  similarity  is  not 
the  effect  of  mixture  or  comiption :  it  holds,  in  some  degree,  a  middle  place 
between  the  Provencal  and  Italian,  with  certain  peculiar  intonations  and  vowels, 
which,  in  addition  to  its  vocabulary,  render  it  perfectly  unintelligible  to  a 
stranger,  however  well  versed  he  may  be  in  the  sister  tongues.  The  Piedmontese 
is  the  universal  speech  of  the  country,  and  employed  by  high  and  low ;  though, 
of  course,  aU  persons  of  education  speak  Italian.  French  is  in  very  common 
use  at  Turin;  first  introduced  by  the  court  and  followers  of  the  Dukes  of 
Savoy,  and  kept  up  by  the  frequent  occupations  of  the  country  by  its  G-allic 
neighbours. 

§  4.    Fine  Aets.* — Litebattteb. 

The  manner  in  which  the  dominions  of  the  House  of  Savoy  have  been 
united  renders  it  rather  difficult  in  some  cases  to  define  who  are  the  great  men 
whom  it  can  claim.  The  best  painters  that  were  naturalised  here,  such  as 
Gaiidenzio  Ferrari^  anativeof  Val  Sesia  (see  Vercelli),  Lcmini,  and  Solaris  really 
belong  to  the  Milanese  school.  Solari  (fl.  1530),  was  bom  at  Alessandria.  He 
was  an  imitator  of  Baphael,  and  not  without  success.  Chiglielmo  Cticcia,  other- 
wise called  Moncaloo  (1568-1625),  worked  much  at  Turin,  Novara,  and  Vercelli. 
Some  consider  him  as  a  follower  of  the  Caracci.  The  eighteenth  century  pro- 
duced a  host  of  inferior  artists.  The  Dukes  of  Savoy  were  liberal  and  splendid 
collectors  of  works  of  art,  and  they  also  invited  many  foreign  artists  to  their 
courts,  as  Balthazar  Matthew  of  Antwerp,  Ja/n  Miel,  a  pupU  of  Vandyke,  and 
Daniel  Seyter  of  Vienna.  Very  recently  the  Academy,  founded  in  1678,  has 
received  much  encouragement.  It  was  re-organised  by  the  Xing  Carlo  Felice  in 
1824,  and  was  afterwards  denominated  the  Accademia  Albertina,  after  the  then 
reigning  sovereign.  No  painter  of  any  eminence  has  been  produced.  One  of 
the  distinguished  sculptors  of  the  present  day.  Baron  Marochetti,  is  a  Pied- 
montese by  birth.  The  Piedmontese  school  of  architecture  in  the  last  century 
exhibits  some  originality,  if  not  genius. 

*  On  this  subject  consult  Crowe  and  Cavalcaselle's  '  History  of  Paintinfj^  in  Italy  from  the 
2nd  to  the  16th  Century,'  3  vols.  8vo.,  London,  1864-66  :  Kugler's  *  Handbook  of  Painting  in 
Italy,'  edited  by  Eastlake,  2  vols.  1855— a  work  designed  for  the  information  of  travellers ;  and 
the  '  Biographical  Catalogue  of  the  Principal  Italian  Painters/  by  a  lAdy,  1  vol.  18mo.  1855. 


Piedmont.  §  5.  Posting.  6 

Literature  is  floimshing ;  offering  as  good  if  not  a  better  prospect  than  in  any 
other  state  of  Italy.  French  literature  is  losing  much  of  its  influence.  German 
has  been  hitherto  little  cultivated  from  the  anti-Teutonic  feelings  of  the  Pied- 
montese.  Printing  is  carried  on  to  a  great  extent,  and  forms  a  very  important 
branch  of  industry,  especially  at  Turin.  It  is  in  history,  beUes-lettres,  and 
science,  that  the  Piedmontese  have  most  distinguished  themselves.  Botta, 
Manno,  Balbo,  Cibrario,  Bertolotti,  PeUico,  Massimo  d*Azeglio,  Nota,  Q-ioberti, 
Sclopis,  Peyron,  Plana,  CoUegno,  Alberto  deUa  Marmora,  Lorenzo  Pareto,  Moris, 
Gteri6,  Sismonda,  do  great  honour  to  the  intellectual  fame  of  their  country. 


§  5.  Posting. 

Since  the  extension  of  railways  there  are  only  4  routes  in  which  there  are 
stations  for  post-horses, — from  Nice  to  GTenoa  and  Spezia,  fr«m  Arona  to  the 
Simplon,  from  Susa  over  the  Mont  Cenis,  and  from  Cuneo  over  the  Col  di  Tenda 
towards  Nice. 

Thfe  posting  regulations  in  the  kingdom  of  Northern  Italy  generally  have  been 
recently  assimilated  to  those  of  France,  the  distances  being  reckoned  in  kilometres, 
and  the  charges"  being  nearly  the  same,  viz.  20  centimes  for  each  horse,  and  12 
for  postilions,  for  every  kilometre ;  on  the  mountain-passes  of  Mt.  Cenis,  the 
Simplon,  and  Tenda,  the  charge  for  each  horse  is  increased  one-third,  or 
to  30  c. 

The  number  of  horses  which  the  postmasters  can  put  on  is  regulated  accord- 
ing to  the  nature  of  the  carriage,  for  which  purpose  all  vehicles  are  arranged 
imder  three  classes : — 1st :  cabriolets  on  two  wheels,  light  caliches  without  a 
seat  in  front,  broughams,  &c.,  to  wliich  only  2  horses  are  required,  provided 
the  number  of  persons  does  not  exceed.  2 ;  if  3  or  4,  then  3  horses,  and  for 
each  additional  passenger  15  centimes  per  kilometre  must  be  paid.  2nd  class : 
limoni^res,  large  caliches  with  a  double  seat  inside,  chariots  or  coupes, 
clarences,  &c.,  3  horses  and  one  postilion ;  should  the  number  of  persons 
exceed  3,  an  additional  charge  of  15  c.  for  each  per  kilometre.  3rd  class,  heavy 
landaus,  barouches,  berlines,  whether  closed  or  open,  4  horses  and  2  postilions, 
if  above  4  passengers,  16  c.  per  kil.  for  the  5th;  if  6  passengers,  6  horses  and  2 
postilions  (it  is  usual  to  pay  for  the  2  additional  horses  without  yoking  them 
to),  and  every  additional  person  16  c.  per  kilometre. 

One  child  under  10  years  is  not  reckoned,  but  if  two  they  are  considered  as 
equivalent  to  one  full-grown  person,  in  the  above  regulations. 

Tlie  postmaster  of  Genoa  is  allowed  to  charge  4  kilometres  in  addition  to 
the  real  distance,  and  as  posies  defaveur,  on  all  carriages  leaving  this  city. 

Each  postmaster  is  obUged  to  be  provided  with  carriages  for  the  use  of 
travelers  (in  general  very  rickety  concerns),  for  the  hire  of  which  they  are 
authorised  to  charge,  for  a  cabriolet  on  two  wheels  10  a.,  and  a  four-wheeled 
vehicle  15  c.  per  kilometre. 

At  the  posthouses  on  the  passes  of  the  Monts  Cenis,  Simplon,  and  Col  di 
Tenda,  the  masters  must  provide  sledges  during  the  winter  season,  for  the 
hire  of  which  they  are  entitled  to  16  c.  per  kilometre ;  they  are  also  authorised 
to  charge  3  and  4  francs  for  dismoimting  and  placing  each  carriage  on  the 
sledge,  according  to  th@  class  to  which  it  may  be  referable. 

Chevo/ux  de  renfort, — Except  on  the  mountain  passes,  for  which  there  are  special 
regulations  noted  in  our  description  of  these  routes,  carriages  of  the  first  and 


6  §  6.  Railway s»     §  7.  Money,  Weights ^  Measures,         Sect.  I. 

second  classes,  with  one  person,  are  not  obliged  to  take  a  cheval  de  renfort  ; 
but  if  more  than  one  passenger,  carriages  of  the  1st  class,  one  additional  horse; 
of  the  2nd  and  3rd  classes,  two  additional  horses  ;  and  carriages  of  the  3rd  class 
and  6  horses,  3  additional  ones  and  another  postilion. 

§  6.    Railways. 

Considerable  progress  has  been  made  in  the  construction  of  Railroads  in 
Piedmont.  More  than  675  niiles  have  been  completed  up  to  the  present  time. 
Lines  already  open : — From  Turin  to  G-enoa,  103 J  miles ;  Turin  to  Susa, 
33  miles ;  Turin  to  Pinerolo,  21f  miles ;  Alessandria  to  Novara,  41  miles,  -with 
a  branch  from  Torreberetti  to  Pavia ;  Novara  to  Arona,  22^^  miles ;  Turin  by 
SavigUano  and  Eossano  to  Cuneo,  with  a  branch  to  Bra,  54^  miles  j  Turin  to 
Novara  and  the  Lombard  frontier,  through  VerceUi,  68  miles,  with  branches  to 
Ivrea,  Biella,  and  to  Gozzano  near  the  Lake  of  Orta ;  to  Valenzaby  Casale  ;  from 
Mortara  to  Vigevano,  7  miles ;  from  Alessandria  by  Tortona  to  Piacenza,  join- 
ing the  Centro-Italian  line  connecting  Milan,  Parma,  and  Bologna  j  from  Ales- 
sandria to  Acqui ;  from  Novi  to  Tortona ;  and  from  Alessandria  to  Casalmag- 
giore,  passing  by  Nizza  di  Monferrato,  Alba,  and  Bra,  61  m. ;  whilst  others 
are  progressing  rapidly  from  Casteggio  to  Pavia  ;  Grenoa  to  Nice,  already  opened 
to  Voltri  J  Grenoa  to  Pisa,  already  completed  from  Spezia  to  Pisa ;  from  Arona 
across  the  Alps  by  the  Lukmanier  into  the  Yalley  of  the  Rhine ;  from  Susa  to 
Modane,  traversing  the  central  chain  of  the  Alps  by  an  immense  tunnel ;  and  a 
direct  line  to  Savona  from  Turin,  branching  off  from  Carmskgnola,  and  passing 
by  Ceva  and  the  Pass  of  Cadibona. 

§  7.    Monet,  Weights,  Measures. 

The  coinage  is  the  same  as  in  France — on  the  decimal  system ;  the  old  coinage 
(mute)  of  40  and  20  centime  pieces  is,  however,  still  met  with. 

SiiiTEE  Coins. 

1  franc  =  100  centimes  =         9^d.  English. 
i     „    =   50        „       =         4ld-        « 
i     „    =    20        „       =         2d. 

5     „     =600        „       =  3«.  lUi.      „ 

GI^OLD  Coins. 
Pieces  of  20  francs  or  Napoleons  =  15j.  lOd. 

GOLD  AND  SILVEE  WEIGHT.  VALUES  IN  ENGLISH  TEOY-WEIGHT. 

Bfark.        Oncie.        Denari.  Grani.  Ounces.        Pennywts,    Grains. 

I     =    8    =     192    =    4608  7  18  3 

1     =      24    =      576  19  183 


1    =       24  im 


3 
SI 


The  Rubbo,  commercial  weight,  is  25  pounds.    This  pound  or  libra  contains 
li  Mark  or  12  ounces  of  the  gold  and  silver  weight.    Therefore,  100  pounds  of 


Turin  =  81*32  lb.  Avoirdupois. 


Piedmont. 


Route  1. — Susa  to  Turin. 


Wine  Mbasuee. 

The  Brenta  is  divided  into  36  Pente  and  72  Boccale.  The  Brenta  =14'88 
Gallons  English;  and  the  Boccale  is  rather  more  than  a  pint  and  a  half;  hut 
the  Litre  is  now  generally  used  in  all  liquid  measures. 

Long  Measfee. 

The  m^tre  (with  its  divisions)  is  now  universally  adopted  throughout  the 
Kingdom  of  Italy ; — of  the  measures  formerly  used — 

The  foot  =  12-72  English  mches,  or  0*323  of  a  m^tre.  The  raso  or  ell  =  23'3 
English  inches,  or  0*5915  of  a  m^tre. 

The  old  Piedmontese  nule  is  reckoned  at  2466  metres  =  2697  English  yards 
=  li  mile  and  57  yards  English.  45t^  Piedmontese  nules  are  equal  to  1  mean 
degree  of  latitude. 


ROUTES. 


ROUTE  1. 


SFSA  TO  TFEIN— BAIL. 


Susa  to  Kil. 

Bnssoleno.  .  .  8 
Borgone  ...  16 
S.  Antonino  .  .  19 
Condove  ...  22 
St.  Ambrogio.     .  26 


Avigliana . 
Rosta  .  . 
Alpignano 
Collegno  . 
Turin  .     . 


KU. 
.  29 
.  34 
.  40 
.  44 
.  53 


33  English  miles. 


5  trains  daily,  in  1  h.  20  m.  and 
1  h.  50  m.t 

(For  the  road  from  Chambery  to 
Susa,  over  the  Mont  Cenis,  see  Sand- 
hook  for  Switzerland  and  Savoy,  Rte. 
154.)  Luggage  is  examined,  on  arriving 
from  France  and  Savoy,  at  the  Susa  rly. 
station.  For  modes  of  crossing  the 
Mont  Cenis  from  Susa,  &c.,  see  p.  13. 

Susa  (H6tel  de  France,  the  hotel  near 
the  rly.  stat.,  complained  of  for  in- 
civility and  high  charges  ;  Locanda 
del  Sole,  reasonable).  Travellers  ar- 
riving by  the  mail  and  diligences  late 
at  night  may  find  it  more  convenient 

*  Tbe  miles  used  throughout  the  Handbooks 
of  Italy,  when  not  otherwise  expressed,  are 
English  statute  miles  of  1760  yards  each. 

f  The  times^of  the  railway  trains  throughout 
this  volume  are  given  on  the  authority  of  the 
latest  Orarii,  or  bills  published  by  the  Govern- 
ment and  ofpopanies. 


to  sleep  here  than  to  arrive  at  Turin, 
where  they  will  often  find  the  hotels 
closed,  and  be  obliged  to  wander  about 
from  house  to  house. 

This  very  ancient  city,  the  Segusium 
of  the  Komans,  is  now  reduced  to  a 
small  extent,  scarcely  numbering  3300 
Inhab.  It  is  still  the  seat  of  a  bishop- 
ric, the  only  token  of  its  former  im- 
portance. It  is  surrounded  with  lovely 
scenery.  The  Dora-Susina,  so  called  to 
distinguish  it  from  the  Dora-Baltea,  in 
the  vsdley  of  Aosta,  runs  by  the  side  of 
the  town. 

The  Arch  or  City  Gate,  erected  by 
Julius  Cottius,  the  son  of  "King  Donnus, 
about  B.C.  8  (A.TT.C.  745),  m  honour 
of  Augustus,  is  the  most  remarkable 
historical  feature  of  the  city ;  it  is  on 
a  road  leading  from  the  S.W.  of  the 
Cathedral  to  the  Old  Castle  outside  the 
town,  and  is  supposed  to  have  stood  on 
the  Iloman  road  which  crossed  the  Alps 
of  Mont  Genievre.  This  chieftain  of 
the  Alpine  tribes,  having  submitted  to 
the  Boman  authority,  records  his  dignity 
under  the  humbler  title  of  Prefect: 
the  inscription,  now  nearly  effaced, 
gives  the  names  of  his  14  mountain 
clans  J  whilst  thebasso-rihevos  represent 
the  sacrifices  (Suovetaurilia)  and  other 


8 


Eoute  1. — Susa. 


Sect.  I. 


ceremonies  by  which  the  treaty  was  rati- 
fied and  concluded.  The  order  is  Cor- 
inthian, in  a  good  strle  for  a  provincial 
town,  and  worthy  of  the  study  of  the 
architect.  The  bas-reliefs,  of  coarse 
execution,  represent  colossal  rams  and 
swine  followed  by  horsemen  armed  with 
spears,  and  the  sacrifice  of  bulls — sculp- 
tures which  were  perhaps  the  work  of 
native  artists;  the  bas-reliefs  on  the 
lesser  sides  have  been  destroyed. 

"  The  arch  is  a  fine  but  simple 
building  of  white  marble.  The  upper 
part  is  destroyed,  but  enough  of  the 
attic  remains  to  exhibit  the  inscrip- 
tion. On  the  upper  course,  in  a  single 
line,  are  the  following  letters,  which  re- 
main very  perfect :— IMP.  CAESAEI 
AUGUSTO  DIYI  F.  PONTIFICI 
MAXVMO  TRIBUNIC.  POTES- 
TATE  XV.  IMP.  Xni.  The  second 
course  seems  to  have  contained  three 
lines  of  inscription,  but  the  upper  is  so 
nearly  destroyed  as  to  suggest  the  idea 
that  the  line  above  it  must  have  been 
restored ;  the  part  most  exposed  could 
hardly  have  remained  perfect  while 
that  below  it  suffered  so  much.  Many 
letters  of  the  third  line  (the  middle 
line  of  the  second  course  of  stones)  are 
distinguishable,  but  I  could  not  make 
out  the  words  reported  by  Millm.  The 
general  proportions  are  not  impleasing, 
but  it  is  rather  singular  that  the  co- 
lumns are  set  on  a  pedestal  which 
raises  them  considerably  above  the 
pilasters  of  the  arch.  This  diminishes 
their  size  and  apparent  importance^ 
The  details  of  the  entablature  are  in 
bad  taste,  and  the  frieze  is  ornamented 
with  a  bas-relief  of  men  and  monsters 
rudely  executed." — Woods. 

Near  this  arch  two  fine  torsos  of 
figures  in  armour  were  discovered, 
which,  without  any  authority,  were 
supposed  to  have  belonged  to  statues 
of  Augustus  and  Cottius.  They  were 
sent  to  Paris  for  deposit  in  the  Louvre, 
where  they  were  repaired  and  com- 
pleted by  the  addition  of  heads,  arms, 
and  legs.  After  the  peace  these  statues 
were  restored  to  the  Sardinian  govern- 
ment, and  are  now  in  the  cortile  of  the 
University  of  Turin. 


The  Cathedral  of  St.  Justus  is  of 
the  11th  centy.  The  great  bell-tower, 
in  the  Lombard  style,  is  one  of  the 
loftiest  of  its  kind.  In  the  cathedral 
the  centre  arches  and  massy  piers  of  the 
nave  belong  to  a  more  ancient  fabric  ; 
the  rest  is  in  a  simple  Gothic  style.  In 
the  Chapel  of  the  Virginis  a  gilded  statue 
in  wood  of  the  12th  centy.  of  Adelaide 
Countess  of  Susa,  the  princess  through 
whom  the  House  of  Savoy  acquired  the 
dominions  which  became  the  origin  of 
its  power  in  Italy.  This  celebrated 
lady  was  thrice  married ;  first  to  Her- 
man Duke  of  Suabia ;  ^  secondly,  to 
Henry  Marquis  of  Montferrat;  and 
thirdly,  to  Otho,  son  of  Humbert  I., 
Count  of  Maurienne.  It  is  said  that 
she  is  buried  here :  but  others  suppose 
that  her  body  rests  at  Turin.  In  one  of 
the  chapels  is  a  curious  mediseval  group 
in  bronze  of  our  Lady  of  Boccia  Melone 
with  S.  George  and  Bonifacio  Botari,  a 
Crusader  of  the  12th  centy.  A  magnifi- 
cent font,  hollowed  out  of  a  single  block 
of  green  ^usa  marble,  stands  in  the 
baptistery.  This  font  is  a  work  of  the 
11th  century,  with  an  ambiguous  in- 
scription, leaving  it  doubtftd  whether 
"  Guigo "  was  the  workman  or  the 
donor  (supposed,  according  to  the  latter 
interpretation,  to  be  Guigo  V.,  first 
Count  of  the  Viennois) .  In  the  sacristy- 
is  shown  a  large  silver  cross,  said  to 
have  been  given  by  Charlemagne. 

Ancient  towers,  gateways  (one  very 
noble  near  the  cathedra^  called  the 
Capitol),  and  Gothic  porticoes,  add  to 
the  picturesque  effebt  of  the  city,  con- 
trasting with  the  modem  edifices  and 
improvements  rapidly  going  on  here. 

Above  Susa  are  the  extensive  ruins 
of  La  Brunetta^  once  a  very  important 
fortress,  and  considered  as  the  key  of 
the  valley.  The  road  from  the  Mont 
Cenis  passes  near  them.  The  defence 
which  La  Brunetta  formerly,  afforded 
to  Piedmont  on  the  side  of  Savoy 
was  effected  by  Fort  Lesseillon,  near 
Modane,  on  the  other  side  of  Mont 
Cenis,  imtil  its  recent  cession  to 
France.  The  Brunetta^  which  with 
the  fortresses  of  Exiles  and  Fenestrellea 
formed  the  line  of  defences  o^Piedmont 


PlUDMONT. 


Scute  l.'-^M<mt6  di  Hoccia  Meton^t 


d 


on  the  side  of  Prance,  was  dedti'oyed 
'  by  the  French  in  1798,  in  virtue  of  a 
stipulation  in  the  treaty  with  Sardinia 
of  that  year,  and  the  demoUtion  is  said 
to  have  cost  600,000  francs. 

The  Monte  di  Hoccia  Melone  {Mons 
Somulea),  also  above  Susa,  is  11,139  feet 
above  the  sea.  Upon  the  summit  is  a 
chapel,  foimded  by  Bonifaccio  di  Asti^ 
a  crusader,  who,  having  been  taken  pri- 
soner by  the  Mahometans,  made  a  vow 
that,  if  set  free,  he  would  erect  an  ora- 
tory here  in  honour  of  the  Virgin.  The 
letters  which  bound  him  are  preserved 
in  the  chapel.  An  annual  procession 
takes  place  to  this  chapel  on  the  5th  of 
August,  the  feast  of  the  Assumption. 
It  is  not  to  be  accomplished  without 
much  difficulty :  all  the  pilgrims  are 
equipped  with  spiked  staves  and  shoes. 

It  is  to  the  top  of  the  Boccia  Me- 
lone that  some  of  the  writers  who 
erroneously  maintain  that  Hannibal 
crossed  the  Albs  by  the  pass  of  Mont 
Cenis,  believe  him  to  have  led  his  army, 
in  order  to  encourage  his  soldiers  by 
the  view  of  Italy. 

3  m.  from  Susa  is  the  celebrated 
Abbey  of  Novalesa^  situated  upon  the 
old  and  now  almost  abandoned  road 

* 

to  the  Hospice.  Here  are  the  remains 
of  the  monastery  founded  by  Abbo, 
lord  of  Susa,  about  the  year  739.  It 
was  ruined  by  the  Saracens  not  long 
after  its  foundation,  when  the  monks 
withdrew  to  Turin,  carrying  with  them 
their  precious  collection  of  MSS.  which 
formed  a  part  of  the  library  of  S.  Sal- 
vatore :  it  was  again  rebuilt  in  the  10th 
century.  The  convent  is  now  inhabited 
by  a  few  Benedictine  monks. 

Just  outside  of  Susa,  the  view,  look- 
ing back  upon  the  town,  in  which  the 
Roman  arch  is  conspicuous,  is  very 
beautifuL  It  is  equally  so  on  looking 
down  the  long  valley.  The  furthest 
extremity  of  this  valley  appears  closed 
by  the  lofty  Monte  Pirchmano,  upon 
the  summit  of  which  may  be  descried 
the  tower  of  the  Abbey  church  of  San 
Michele,  The  Boman  road  over  the 
Alps,  which  was  constructed  when 
Ootius  submitted  to  Augustus,  passed. 
up  thia  valley,  and,  turning  to  the  S.W. 


at  Susa,  Along  the  valley  of  the  Doira, 
crossed  by  the  pass  oi  Mt.  Gten^vre. 
This  became  the  road  most  frequented 
by  the  Bomans  between  Italy  and 
Gaul.  The  miUtary  road  of  Pompey 
and  Ceesar  passed  through  Oulx,  and 
over  the  Col  de  Sestrieres. 

The  Ely.  and  post-roads  skirt  to 

8  kil.  JBussoleno  Stat,  a  small  town 
surrounded  by  walls  and  towers.  Be- 
fore reaching  this  place,  at  Foresto  on 
the  1.,  are  quarries  of  the  green  marble 
of  Susa,  a  kmd  of  serpentine,  very  much 
Hke  the  verd'  antique,  but  possessing 
less  durability.     The  road  again  skirts 

8  kiL  Borgone  Stat,  Between  Bus- 
soleno  and  this  stat.  on  the  rt.  is 

8a/n  Oiorio,  displaying  its  array 
of  walls  and  towers,  and  an  ancient 
fortress  ascending  the  hiU  which  crowns 
it,  standing  out  boldly,  and  rising  stage 
above  stage  with  great  beauty. 

3  kil.  Sanf  Antonino  Stat.,  a  small 
town,  in  which  the  principal  feature  is 
a  very  ancient  Lombard  tower. 

3  kil.  Condove  Stat,  on  the  1.  bank 
of  the  Dora.  The  gorge  here  narrows, 
and  becomes  exceedingly  picturesque. 
From  the  beginning  of  the  traveller's 
progress  down  the  valley  of  Susa, 
he  will  have  seen  before  him,  in 
the  distance,  a  very  lofty  hill,  upon  the 
summit  of  which  a  building,  apparently 
a  tower,  can  be  faintly  discerned,  the 
whole  mass  appearing  to  close  the 
valley.  This  mountain  is  the  Monte 
JPirchiriano,  between  which  and  the 
Monte  Caprasio  was  the  ancient  for- 
tified line  erected  a.d.  774  by  Desiderius 
King  of  the  Lombards,  by  which  he 
vainly  endeavoured  to  defend  his  king- 
dom against  Charlemagne ;  but  of  these 
defences  no  traces  are  now  to  be  found, 
except  in  the  name  of  the  neighbour- 
ing hamlet  of  Ckmsa.  The  wall  was 
defended  by  bulwarks  and  towers  ;  but 
Charlemagne  did  not  attack  them — a 
minstrel  from  the  Lombard  camp  be- 
trayed the  existence  of  a  secret  and 
unfortified  path,  through  which  the 
forces  of  the  King  of  the  Franks  pene- 
trated. Desiderius  fled  to  Pavia,  and 
the  Lombard  monarchy  was  over- 
thrown. 

B  8 


10 


Route  1. — Monastery  di  San  Michete, 


Sect.  I. 


On  the  mountain  on  the  E.  stands 
the  monastery,  or  the  "  Sagra  di  San 
Michele^^  one  of  the  most  remarkable 
reUgious  monuments  of  Piedmont.  It 
is  supposed  to  have  been  originally 
an  oratory,  founded  by  Amisone  Bishop 
of  Turin,  in  the  10th  century..  Beams 
of  fire  descending  from  heaven  marked, 
it  was  said,  the  spot,  and  lighted  the 
tapers  employed  for  its  consecration. 
As  a  monastery,  it  was  rebuilt  by 
Hugh  de  Montboissier,  a  nobleman  of 
Auvergne  (between  the  years  970  and 
998),  who  for  some  heinous  crime 
had  been  enjoined  the  penance  of  found- 
ing a  monastery  in  the  Alps.  In  its 
flourishing  days  the  Sagra  contained 
300  monks  of  the  order  of  St.  Benedict, 
who  kept  up  the  "  laus  perennis,"  or 
perpetual  service,  in  the  choir;  and 
its  history  is  connected  with  several  of 
the  most  important  personages  and 
events  in  that  of  Piedmont  and  Savoy. 

The  moimtain  can  be  ascended  most 
easily  from  S.  Ambrogio,  but  only  on 
foot  or  mule-back.  Its  simunit  is  2880 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The 
higher  portion  is  covered  with  fine 
groves  of  chestnut-trees,  through  which 
you  pursue  a  winding  path.  StUl  higher 
up  are  secluded  and  picturesque  farms, 
which,  with  the  woods,  constitute  almost 
all  the  property  that  this  once  opulent 
monastery  retains.  Like  most  of  the 
monasteries  dedicated  to  St.  Michael, 
this  Sagra  has  the  character  at  once  of 
a  castle  and  a  church :  great  masses  of 
ruins  surround  the  habitable  portion. 
A  rock  near  it  is  called  the  Salto  della 
Bella  Alda,  The  fair  Alda  leaped 
from  the  summit  and  reached  the 
ground  in  safety,  under  the  protection 
of  the  "Virgin.  "Vainglorious  and  rash, 
*  she  attempted  the  leap  a  second  time, 
and  perished  by  the  fall.  Injudicious 
repairs  have  diminished  the  effects  of 
the  building ;  but  it  is  yet  a  complete 
castle  of  romance, — walls  growing  out 
of  rocks,  and  rocks  built  in  and  form- 
ing walls  and  foundations  of  the  edifice. 

Passing  by  a  ruined  outwork,  whose 
circular  windows  bespeak  its  early  date, 
we  traverse  a  low  vaulted  gallery,  and 
reach  a  small  terrace.    Before  us  is  a 


tower,  rising  out  of,  and  also  abutting 
or  leaning  against  the  rock :  the  lower 
part  contains  the  staircase  by  which 
we  ascend  to  the  monastery ;  the  upper 
portion  of  the  tower  forms  the  extremity 
of  the  choir,  and  terminates  in  an 
open  Lombard  gallery  of  small  circular 
arches  supported  by  pillars :  this  is  one 
of  the  oldest  and  most  curious  features 
of  the  building.  The  height,  looking 
down  from  the  outer  gallery,  is  great : 
an  iron  balustrade  has  been  fitted  into 
the  interstices.  This  staircase  is  sup- 
ported by  an  enormous  central  pier : 
here  and  there  the  rocks  against  which 
the  edifice  is  built  jut  out,  and  por- 
tions of  sepulchres  are  dimly  seen.  At 
the  summit  is  a  great  arch,  filled  with 
desiccated  corpses.  Until  recently 
these  corpses  were  placed  sitting  upon 
the  steps  of  the  atairs;  and  as  you 
ascended  to  the  church  you  had  to 
pass  between  the  ranks  of  these  ghastly 
sentinels.  Whence  the  corpses  came, 
or  why  they  were  placed  there,  is  not 
known :  respected,  if  not  venerated,  the 
peasants  used  to  dress  them  up  and 
adorn  them  with  flowers,  which  must 
have  rendered  them  still  more  hideous. 
The  extremely  beautiful  circular  arch, 
by  which  we  pass  from  the  staircase 
to  the  corridor  leading  to  the  church, 
is  a  vestige  of  the  original  building.  It 
is  composed  of  grey  marble,  Lombard 
in  style,  and  sculptured  with  the 
signs  of  the  zodiac  and  inscriptions  in 
very  early  Longobardic  characters.  The 
church  itself  is  in  a  plain  Q-othic  style : 
the  choir  retains  vestiges  of  an  earHer  age. 
A  fine  Glothic  tomb,  representing  an  ab- 
bot, has  excited  much  controversy. 

The  late  king  caused  the  remains 
of  Carlo  Emanuele  II.  (the  father  of 
Yittorio  Amedeo,  the  first  King  of  Sar- 
dinia, whose  monument  is  in  the  ca- 
thedral at  Turm),  and  of  several  other 
members  of  the  royal  family,  to  be  re- 
moved hither  from  Turin ;  and  it  was 
supposed  that  he  intended  to  render  San 
Michele  the  future  place  of  burial  of  the 
royal  family.  The  remainder  of  the  Sagra 
is  composed  of  a  wilderness  of  ruined 
JiaUs  and  corridors,  and  of  the  cells  and 
other  apartments  inhabited  by  the  con- 


Piedmont. 


Houte  1. — Sant*  Ambrogto — liivotu 


u 


fi»temity  to  whom  the  monastery  is 
now  assigned.  The  Benedictines  have 
disappeared;  and  long  before  the  Re- 
Tolution  their  possessions  had  been 
much  dilapidated.  It  was  considered 
as  one  of  those  good  "  pieces  of  prefer- 
ment "  which  the  crown  might  dispose 
of  J  and  the  celebrated  Prince  Eugene, 
all  booted  and  spurred,  appears  in  the 
list  of  abbots.  The  monastery  was 
given  some  years  ago  to  the  priests  of 
the  Instituto  delta  Carita,  called  Rosmi' 
mans,  from  the  name  of  their  founder — 
an  order  of  recent  origin,  and  belonging 
to  a  class  of  regulars  now  much  encou- 
raged by  the  CSiurch  of  Bome,  as  better 
suited  to  the  exigencies  of  the  age  than 
the  more  ancient  ascetic  confraternities. 
They  are  principally  employed  in  educa- 
tion. 

The  views  from  the  simimit  of  the 
mountain,  and  more  particularly  from 
the  outer  gallery  of  the  choir,  are  of 
the  greatest  beauty,  and  would  alone 
repay  the  traveller  for  the  toil  of  the 
ascent. 

4  kil.  Sanff  Ambrogio  Stat.,  a  vil- 
lage at  the  foot  of  the  Monte  Pirchiri- 
ano.  The  houses  with  their  projecting 
galleries  are  pleasing  objects ;  and  there 
is  a  decent  small  inn  at  the  place.  The 
church  is  rather  remarkable.  A  httle 
beyond  is  seen  Avigliana,  with  a  fine 
feudal  castle  standing  out  boldly  above 
the  town,  and  forming  with  it  a  beauti- 
ful group. 

3  kil.  Avigliana  Stat. 

Avigliana  is  a  very  imaltered  town, 
and  full  of  shattered  fragments.  The 
church  of  San  Pietro  is  of  very  high 
antiquity,  and  supposed,  like  many 
buildings  of  the  same  class,  to  have 
been  a  heathen  temple.  The  Monte 
Musino  in  the  neighbourhood  furnishes 
some  remarkable  minerals,  amongst 
others  the  SydropJiane,  which,  opaque 
when  dry,  has  the  property  of  be- 
coming transparent  when  immersed 
in  water.  The  neighbouring  woods 
also  fiinush  much  game,  both  for  the 
sportsmSli  and  the  ornithologist.  Near 
Avigliana  are  two  small  pleasing  and 
secluded  lakes,  the  Lago  delta  Madonna 


and  the  Zo^o  di  San  £artolommeo. 
The  Dora  adds  greatly  to  the  beauty  of 
the  scenery  in  this  vicinity. 

About  here  the  Alpine  valley  of  Susa 
ends,  and  the  traveller  now  enters  the 
great  valley  of  the  Po. 

At  some  Httle  distance  from  the 
road  is  seen  the  church  of  Sanf  An- 
tonio di  Minverso,  anciently  belonging 
to  the  Knights  Hospitallers,  and  con- 
secrated in  1121  by  Pope  CaUxtus  Y. 
It  is  Gothic,  and  built  of  moulded 
brick ;  the  pinnacles  and  all  other  or- 
naments being  formed  with  much  deli- 
cacy. This  is  a  specimen  of  a  style 
almost  peculiar  to  Lombardy,  of  which 
the  traveller  wiU  find  the  frill  display 
at  Milan,  Piacenza,  and  Pavia.  The 
roof  is  of  brOliant  painted  tiles  j  and 
both  within  and  without  are  some  in- 
teresting frescoes.  The  high  altar  is  of 
the  15th  centmy.  The  country  is  plea- 
santly wooded. 

5  kil.  Uosta  Stat,  in  the  plain  below 
the  hiU  of  Rivoli. 

Mivoli,  a  town  of  about  5200  Inhab., 
pleasantly  situated,  above  which  towers 
the  ^leat  unfinished  palace  begun  by 
Juvara,  and  exhibiting  many  of  his 
peculiarities.  This  palace  was  one 
of  the  places  of  confinement  in  which 
Vittorio  Amedeo  II.  was  incarcerated 
during  the  short  interval  which  elapsed 
between  the  unfortunate  attempt  which 
he  made  to  re-ascend  the  throne  and 
his  death.  He  had  abdicated  (1730) 
in  favour  of  his  son  Carlo  Emanuele 
III.,  and  had  retired  to  Chambery. 
taking  the  title  of  Conte  di  Tenda, 
He  was  a  wise  and  good  monarch ;  and 
in  his  person  the  House  of  Savoy  ob- 
tained the  island  of  Sardinia  and  the 
regal  title ;  but  a  short  time  after  his 
retirement  he  grew  weary  of  a  private 
Ufe,  and  formed  a  scheme  for  repossess- 
ing himself  of  the  royal  authority. 
Some  say  that  his  intellect  was  im- 
paired ;  others,  that  he  was  instigated 
by  the  ambition  of  the  Countess  of 
Sommariva,  for  whom  he  had  re- 
nounced the  crown,  and  whom  he 
married  immediately  after  his  abdica- 
tion.    The  royal  revenant  was  speedily 


12 


Eoute  1, — Turin. 


Sect.  1. 


laid.  The  cotmcil  of  Carlo  Emanuelo 
readily  eoncurped  in  the  opinion  that 
Vittorio  should  be  seized  —  a  deter- 
mination which  was  probably  not  re- 
tarded by  his  boast  that  he  woidd  take 
good  care  to  behead  all  his  son's  minis- 
ters. He  was  accordingly  brought  to 
Eivoli,  Sept.  1731,  and  kept  in  what 
was  equivedent  to  soHtary  Qonfinement. 
His  attendants  and  guards  were  strictly 
prohibited  from  speaking  to  him ;  and, 
if  he  addressed  them,  they  maintained 
the  most  inflexible  silence,  answering 
only  by  a  very  low  and  submissive  bow 
— a  miserable  mockery  of  respect.  He 
was  afterwards  permitted  to  have  the 
company  of  his  wife,  and  remove  to 
another  prison;  but,  on  the  31st  of 
October,  1732,  he  died.  Some  of 
the  rooms  have  recently  been  fitted 
up  for  the  late  king.  There  are  many 
pictures  in  the  palace — a  collection  of 
views  in  Piedmont  by  tlje  brothers  Ciff- 
Tmroli,  landscapes  by  VanloOf  and  a 
series  of  historical  scenes  from  the  Hves 
of  Amedeo  VII.  and  YIII.,  Counts  of 
Savoy. 

The  air  of  RivoU  is  remarkablyrmre, 
and  the  place  is  very  healthy.  Hence 
the  town  and  its  vicinity  abo\md  in 
villas.  Amongst  others  is  the  resi- 
dence of  the  Avvocato  Colla,  to  which 
is  annexed  a  botanic  garden,  with  hot- 
houses and  conservatories. 

At  Rivoli  commences  an  avenue  of 
pollard  elms,  leading  to  Turin,  about 
six  miles  in  length,  the  distant  extre- 
mity of  the  vista  being  terminated  by 
the  Superga. 

6  kil.  Alpignano  Stat,  near  the  large 
village  of  Fianezza,  on  the  opposite  side 
of  the  river.  The  railway  has  constantly 
on  the  rt.  the  long  alley  of  elms  leading 
from  Rivoli  to  the  capital. 

4  kil;  Collegno  Stat.y  a  small  town  on 
the  Dora,  in  the  most  fertile  part  of 
the  plain:  it  gives  a  count's  title  to 
the  Provana  family.  Here  is  a  large 
Carthusian  monastery;  the  fine  Ionic 
facade  was  added  to  it  in  1727.  The 
knights  of  the  Order  of  the  Annunciad 
(the  Q-arter  of  Piedmont)  are  interred 
under  the  ch.  annexed  to  this  monas- 
tery.    The  large  chateau  belongs  to 


the  Provanas.  From  OoUegno  to  the 
capital  the  railway  crosses  the  plain  for 
10  kil. 

9  kil.  Turin  Terminus,  at  the  S.  ex- 
tremity of  the  town.  Omnibuses  are  in 
waiting  to  convey  travellers  to  the  dif- 
ferent hotels. 

TiTEiN.  Inns:  H6tel de I'Europe, in 
the  Piazza  del  Castello ;  very  comfort- 
able and  well  managed — excellent  table- 
d'h6te  at  4  fr.,  not  including  wine;  and 
dinner  in  apartments  6  fr. ;  breakfast 
■with  eggs  1-75 ;  bed-rooms  3  fr. ;  ser- 
vice 1  fr.  a-day;  an  excellent  system 
at  this  hotel,  which  ought  to  be  imi- 
tated, of  placing  a  list  of  laundresses' 
charges  in  each  room ;  English  spoken 
by  most  of  the  attendants.  H.  de  la 
Grande  Bretagne,  in  the  Via  del  Po, 
very  good  and  well  spoken  of,  with  a 
table-d'h6te.  H.  Feder,  in  the  Via  di  S. 
Francesco  di  Paola;  tables-d'h6te  at 
half-past  1  and  at  5, 4  fr.  H.  dei  Liguri, 
near  the  principal  railway  station. 
H6tel  de  la  Ville,  formerly  the  Pension 
Suisse.  Hdtel  d'Angleterre,  or  La 
Bonne  Femme,  tolerably  good  second- 
rate  inns. 

Cafes  and  Hestavrateurs :  The  Cafes 
of  Turin  are  numerous,  and  superior  to 
those  of  most  other  cities  in  Italy ;  the 
Fiorio,  the  Cafe  Dilaj,  San  Carlo,  and 
Cafe  Nazionale  in  the  Via  del  Po,  are 
the  best.  The  prices  at  the  caffes  are 
not  high :  e.  g.  coffee,  20  cents  j  cho- 
colate, 25  cents ;  ice,  25  cents ;  good 
white  wine,  60  cents  the  bottle ;  red  50 
cents.  There  are  restaurateurs  on  the 
French  plan  :  rUniverso ;  il  Pastore  ; 
le  Indie ;  and  la  Vema.  At  these  es- 
tabhshments  dinners  may  be  had  from 
2  to  5  francs.  The  best  restaurants,  how- 
ever, are  at  the  Hdtel  de  I'Europe  and 
the  Grande  Bretagne.  The  chocolate 
of  Turin  is  reckoned  the  best  in  Italy. 
The  Piedmontese  bread,  in  long  thin 
wands,  called  "  grissini,"  is  remarkably 
good.  It  was  introduced  by  a  physi- 
cian of  that  name,  who  found  it  in  his 
own  case  more  digestible  than  the  ordi- 
nary bread.  It  takes  its  name  from 
him. 


CnUROHBS.  :' 

1.  Cathedral 

2.  S.  Manrizio. 

3.  S.  Domeiiloo. 

4.  Corpus  DominL 
0.  S.  Filippo. 

6   S.  Tereaa. 

7.  La  ConBoIata. 

8.  I^Hadi«diDio. 

9.  CappacdnL 


PALACES. 

10.  Beale. 

11.  Madama. 

12.  Carignano. 

13.  Dell'       Aocademia 
and  Bfuseums. 

14.  Del  Municipio. 
16.  Universlly. 

16.  DeUe  Belle  Arti. 


17.  Piazza  Sualua. 

18.  „     d'ltalia. 

19.  Teatro  Beggio. 
20. 

21.  „     Ardennes. 

22.  „ 

23.  „     NazionaJe. 

24.  Great  Hoepital. 
26.  Post  Office. 


HOTELS. 

26.  Europa. 

27.  Oran  Bretagna. 

28.  Feder. 


To  foot  p.  !*• 


1^ 


PlfiDM^NT. 


JRoute  1 . — Turin —  Conveyances. 


13 


The  Post-office  is  in  the  Via  del 
Teatro  d' Angennes  and  Piazza  Carlo 
Alherto,  behind  the  Palazzo  Oarignano. 
The  letters  for  Genoa  and  Tuscany, 
Borne  and  Naples,  leave  at  a  very  early 
hour,  so  that  they  must  be  posted 
before  9  p.m.  on  the  preceding  day. 
For  [France,  England,  and  all  countries 
to  the  north,  the  office  closes  at  8^  p.m., 
and  the  courier  leaves  at  11.  Letters  to 
England  may  be  prepaid  or  not :  postage 
60  c.  J  to  the  United  States  1-20 ;  to 
France  40  c. ;  to  any  point  of  the  king- 
dom of  Italy,  20  c. :  letters  not  prepaid 
are  charged  double  the  amoimt  of  pre- 
payment, on  delivery  in  England  and 
France,  and  vice  versa  on  arriving  in 
Piedmont. 

SacJcney  Coaches.  —  There  are  ex- 
cellent hackney  coaches,  or  fiacres — 
dttadini;  fares,  1  horse  1-50,  2  horses 
3  francs  an  hour;  private  carriages 
10  francs  for  half  a  day,  15  for  the 
whole;  excursion  to  the  Superga  30 
francs  veith  4  horses,  with  2. horses  20, 
For  most  purposes  of  excursion  in  and 
about  the  city,  the  fiacres  answer  quite 
as  well  as  the  more  expensive  car- 
riages hired  at  the  hotels.  The  owner 
of  the  Hdtel  de  I'Europe  furnishes 
carriages  at  the  same  rates  as  the  hack- 
ney ones. 

IHUgences,  MallesposteSy  ^c, — Most 
of  the  public  conveyances  out  of  Turin 
are  now  in  connection  with  the  rail- 
ways ;  the  first  in  impoi^ance  to  the 
general  traveller  being  those  that  cross 
the  Mont  Cenis  iuto  France.  '  A  malic- 
post  starts  every  evening  from  the  Post- 
ofEice  at  11*50  in  summer,  in  winter  at 
10*40 ;  and  as  its  fares  are  only  8  fr. 
more   than  by  the   diligences    to    jSt. 
Michel,  it  is  to  be  preferred,  especially  in 
the  winter  season,  as,  from  the  state  of 
the  roads,  the  latter  overloaded  vehi- 
cles sometimes  arrive  too  late  for  the 
express  railway  train.    The  malleposte 
takes  11  passengei^,  6  inside,  and  3  in 
the  coup^,  and  2  on  the  banquette  as 
&r  as  St.  Michel.     The  administration 


of  the  Victor  Emanuel  Railway,  whose 
offices  are  near  the  Post-office,  despatch 
every  day  from  Susa,  on  the  arrival 
of  the  11*50  P.M.  train  from  Turin, 
as  many  diligences  as  are  necessary  to 
convey  its  passengers  over  the  Mont 
Cenis  ;  they  are  in  correspondence  with 
the  express  trains  from  St,  Michel  for 
Paris,  Lyons,  and  Geneva.  Seats  in  the 
coupes  can  be  secured  at  a  trifling  extra 
charge,  the  whole  fare  being  to  Paris 
104^  fr.  and  107 ;  and  passengers  can 
have  their  luggage  registered  at  the  office 
of  the  company  in  the  city  for  its  des- 
tination by  sending  it  a  few  hours  be- 
fore, which  vdll  save  them  much  trouble. 
In  ordinary  weather  these  diligences 
arrive  at  St.  Michel  before  the  depar- 
ture of  the  train  at  1*40  p.m.,  giving  the 
traveller  time  to  breakfast.  IHligences 
and  a  Malleposte  for  Nice  start  every 
evening  from.  Cuneo  on  the  arrival  of 
the  last  railway  train  from  Turin, 
crossing  the  Ool  di  Tenda,  and  reaching 
Nice  at  6  p.m.  Places  may  be  secured 
at  the  office  in  the  Yia  oi  Cavour  at 
Turin ;  to  Aosta  by  railway  as  fi*r  as 
Ivrea. 

Private  Conveyances  for  crossing 
Mont  CeniSy  Vetturiniy  Sfc. — Borgo,  who 
will  be  found  at  the  Hotel  de  I'Europe, 
and  whose  office  is  under  the  portico 
close  by,  wiU  undertake  to  convey  tra- 
vellers from  the  Susa  to  the  rly.  station 
at  St.  Michel,  in  from  9  to  10  hom*s, 
changing  horsds  4  times  on  the- 
road;  in  this  way,  by  leaving  GDurin 
by  the  train  at  5*40  a.m.,  St.  Michel 
(where  there  is  a  very  fair  inn,  the 
Poste)  can  be  reached  on  ,the  same 
evening,  or,  if  leaving  by  the  11*50  p.m. 
train,  in  ample  time  for  the  express 
trains  to  Gleneva,  Lyons,  and  Paris  the 
next  day.  Borgo's  charges,  including 
JEdl  tolls,  postilions*  fees,  Ac,  are  given 
in  a  printed  tariff.  The  same  arrange- 
ments can  be  made  at  St.  Michel.  Per- 
sons, before  leaving  Paris,  will  do  Well, 
however,  beforehand,  to  write  to  Borgo 
at  the  Hotel  de  rUnion  at  S.  Micliel, 
Savoie.  The  same  arrangement  may  be 
made  at  the  railway  office,  but  their 


14 


liaute  1. — Turin — BaUtJcai/s,  ^o. 


Sect.  1. 


charges  are  higher,  their  carriages  per- 
'  h«p9  not  so  comfortable,  and  complaints 
have  been  made  at  the  way  the  service 
is  performed  and  the  want  of  punc- 
tuality in  arriving  in  time  for  the  rly. 
trains  at  Susa  and  St.  Michel, 

Travellers  must  be  cautioned  against 
the  attempts  made  at  the  rly.  station 
here  to  prevent  their  employing  other 
carriages  than  their  own  indifferent 
ones  ;  not  only  by  asserting  that  there 
are  no  others  on  the  road,  but  by 
preventing  them  taking  up  at  the  sta- 
tion. They  will  do  well,  therefore,  on 
reaching  St.  Michel,  to  proceed  at  once 
to  the  hotel  where  Borgo's  office  is, 
to  engage  their  carriage,  to  deliver  the 
rly.  receipt  for  tlieir  luggage  to  the 
vetturino,  who  will  see  it  properly 
packed,  &c.  The  H6tel  de  la  Samari- 
taine,  within  the  station,  is  of  very  little 
use  to  travellers,  the  furnishing  of  food 
being  interdicted  to  the  master,  in  con- 
sequence of  the  monopoly  granted  to 
the  person  holding  the  Buffet  by  the 
rly.  company. 

Railwaifs  are  now  open  in  every 
direction  from  Turin  : — Between  Turin 
and  Genoa  5  times  a  day,  in  4  to  5f 
hrs.,  passing  by  Asti,  Alexandria,  and 
Novi :  to  Susa  5  times  a  day  (the 
latest  in  correspondance  with  the  ex- 
press train  to  Paris),  in  IJ  and  2  hrs.  : 
to  Pinerolo  4  times  a  day,  in  Ibr.  10  m. : 
to  Cuneo  4  times  a  day,  in  2  hrs.  45  m., 
with  branches  to  Bra,  Alba,  and  Sa- 
luzzo  :  to  Milan  4  times  a  day,  in  3  hrs. 
35  m.  to  5  hrs.  20  m.,  with  branches 
to  Ivrea  and  the  Val  d' Aosta,  to  Biella, 
to  Gozzano  for^Orta,  to-  Arona  on  the 
Lago  Maggiore,  and  to  Casale,  Mortara, 
and  Yigevano  :  to  Piacenza,  Parma, 
Modena,  Bologna,  and  Rimini,  4  times 
a  day,  with  3  trains  daily  from  the 
latter  to  Ancona,  2  from  the  latter  to 
Foggia,  Bari,  Brindisi,  and  Lecce. 

The  principal  Rly.  Stat,  is  at  the  ex- 
tremity of  the  Via  Nuova,  at  the  S.  ex- 
tremity of  the  city ;  the  other,  at  the 
end  of  the  Yia  di  Ohemaja,  beyond  the 
old  citadel,  is  now  seldom  used  for  pas- 
senger traffic.  Omnibuses  from  the  dif- 
ferent hotels  will  be  found  in  attend- 


ance on  the  arrival  of  the  trains.    For- 
details  respecting  the  times  of  starting 
and  fares  see  the  several  routes. 

Fhysiciatk*  Dr.  Pacchiotti,  who 
speaks  English,  formerly  medical  at- 
tendant to  the  British  Legation,  Yia 
dell'  Ospedale. 

HomaopatMc  Physician.  Dr.  Ajmini, 
Maison  Natta,  Piazza  S.  Carlo. 

Apothecary,  Massimo,  Yia  di  S. 
Filippo. 

Guide-books,  works  of  art,  engrav- 
ings, and  maps  at  Maggi's  in  the  Yia 
del  Po ;  Giannini  e  Fiore  for  Italian 
works,  in  the  same  street. 

There  are  several  handsome  shops 
imder  the  arcades  of  the  Piazza  del 
Castello  and  the  Yia  Dora.  Turin  has 
some  celebrity  for  its  kid  gloves;  one 
of  the  best  makers  being  Fiorio,  No.  15, 
Yia  Dora  Grossa;  they  are  cheaper 
than  those  of  Paris. 

The  JEnglish  Protestant  Service  is 
perfomled  every  Sunday,  in  an  apart- 
ment at  the  rear  of  the  Yaudois  Ch. 
in  the  Stradale  del  R5.  Service  in 
French  at  10'45  a.m.;  and  in  Italian 
at  9  and  11  A.M.  and  8  p.m. 

There  are  no  suburbs  to  Turin  : 
what  were  the  suburbs  are  taken 
into  the  town,  and  continuously  built 
upon.  It  may  be  said  to  be  one  of  the 
most  flourishing  cities  of  Europe. 
Under  the  French,  the  population  in 
1813  sank  to  65,000 :  in  1862  it  waa 
204,782,  and  is  increasing  yearly. 

Turin  is  now  unfortified ;  the  citadel 
and  its  outworks — rased  to  make  room 
for  the  station  of  the  Novara  and  MEilan 
Rly.  and  the  new  portion  of  the  tpvm 
rapidly  extending  in  that  direction— 
w&s  a  remarkable  monument  of  military 
architecture.  It  was  built  by  Emanuele 
Filiberto  in  1565 ;  and,  preceding  Ant- 
werp by  two  or  three  years,  was  the 
earliest  specimen  of  regular  fortification 
in  Europe. 

In  Italy,  the  land  the  most  rich  in 
recollections  of  the  past,  Turin  is  per- 
haps the  poorest  city  in  this  respect. 
Its  history,  whether  under  the  Empire 
or  during  the  middle  ages,  is  almost  a 
blank.     Some  of  its  marquises  are  ob- 


PlEPMONT. 


Houte  1. —  Turin — History, 


16 


Bcurely  noticed;  Claudius  Bishop  of 
Turin  (died  840)  was  distinguished  by 
his  opposition  to  the  use  of  images  in 
Divine  worship,  as  a  breach  of  the 
second  conunandment,  and  to  the 
Yeneration  of  relics. 

Turin  has  been  repeatedly  ruined: 
the  last  ravages  it  sustained  were  from 
Francis  I.,  in  1536,  who  demohshed  the 
extensive    suburbs,   and    reduced    the 
limits  of  its  ancient  walls  j  destroying 
at  the  same  time  the  amphitheatre  and 
several  other  Eoman  remains.     It  is 
therefore  almost  denuded  of  any  ves- 
tiges of  classical  or  mediaeval  antiquity. 
A  portion  of  the  walls  of  the  Porta 
Palatina,  at  the  N.  extremity  of  the  city, 
and  so  called  from  the  two  round  towers 
which  were  added  during  the  middle 
ages,  and  some  of  the  lower  part  of  the 
Palazzo  Madama,  are  perhaps  the  only 
exceptions.     The  reconstruction  of  the 
city,  begun  by  Emanuele  Fihberto  and 
Carlo  Emanuele  I.,  .is    more   due  to 
Cwrlo  Emanuele  II.  and  Vittorio  A  me- 
deo  II.    Still  further  improvements  have 
been  more  recently  made,  under  the 
three  late  kings  and  the  reigning  mo- 
narch. At  least  one  fourth  of  the  city  has 
been  erected  since  the  restoration  of  the 
royal  family,  and  of  later  years  nearly 
one  third  has  been  added  to  it  on  the 
S.  side,  where  entire  streets  and  squares 
are  rising  as  if  by  magic;  a  proof  of 
the  great  prosperity   of   the  coimtry 
under  its  liberal    institutions,    which 
liave    made  Turin  the  refuge  of  the 
persecuted    and     oppressed    all    over 
Italy.    The  streets,  are  all  in  straight 
lines,  intersecting  each  other  at  right 
angles.    The  blocks,  or  masses,  of  build- 
ings, formed  by  these  intersections,  are 
called  isole,  an  architectural  Latinism 
retained  here  and  also   in   Provence. 
The  houses  are  of  brick  intended  for 
stucco.    They  are  large,  the  windows 
and  doors  are  ornamented,  and  crowned 
with,  a  cornice.    Through  the  perspec- 
tive of  the  streets,  the  hiUs  which  sur- 
round the  city,  and  the  more  distant 
Alps,  are  continually  in  view. 

{JDurin  is  situated  in  the  plain  which 
forms  the  angle    between    the    Dora 


Kiparia  and  the  Po,  just  above  the 
junction  of  these  two  rivers  :  the  first 
is  a  fine  mountain  torrent ;  the  latter 
a  deep  and  rapid  river. 

"  Cosl  scendendo  dal  natlo  suo  monte 
Non  empie  umile  il  Po  l'  angusta  sponda ; 
Ma  sempre  piu,  quanto  e  piu  lunge  al  fonte, 
Di  nove  forze  insuperbito  abonda. 
Sovra  i  rotti  confini  alza  la  fronte 
Di  tauro,  e  vincitor  d'  intorno  inonda : 
E  con  piu  coma  Adria  resplnge,  e  pare 
Che  guerra  porti,  e  non  tributo,  al  mare." — 
Tasso,  Gier.  Lib.,  ix.  st.  46. 

It  is  supposed  to  have  been  foimded 
by  a  Ligurian  tribe  called  the  Taurini ; 
the  earhest  mention  we  find  of  it  is  for 
its  resistance  to  Hannibal  after  his  cele- 
brated passage  of  the  Alps.  At  a  later 
period  it  became  a  Roman  colony  im- 
der  the  name  of  Augusta  Taurinorum. 
Destroyed  by  Constantine  for  having 
espoused  the  cause  of  Maxentius,  sacked 
and  ruined  successively  by  Stilicho,  At- 
tila,  and  Odoacer,  we  find  it  in  the 
hands  of  its  dukes  at  the  invasion  of  the 
Lombards.  In  the  11th  century  it  was 
the  capital  of  a  County,  the  chief  of 
which  and  last  of  the  male  branch, 
Manfred  III.,  married  his  only  daughter 
Adelaide  to  Otho  of  Savoy  in  1045,  the 
origin  of  its  possession  by  the  present 
royal  family.  The  most  remarkable 
events  in  the  more  modem  history  of 
Turin  are  the  two  memorable  sieges  it 
stood  in  1649  and  1706  :  the  first  dur- 
ing the  contest  between  the  French  and 
Spaniards,  when  the  latter,  headed  by 
Prince  Tomasso  of  Savoy,  capitulated 
to  Marshal  d'llarcourt:  the  second 
during  the  war  of  the  Succession, 
when.  Piedmont  siding  against  Louis 
XIY.,  V.  Amadeo  was  beseiged  in  his 
capital,  whicli  he  defended  heroically 
for  3  months  before  a  very  superior 
force,  until  the  arrival  of  Prince  Eugene 
and  the  imperialist  army,  which  was 
followed  by  the  signal  defeat  of  the 
French  (Sept.  7, 1706),  and  their  being 
forced  to  raise  the  siege. 

Beyond  the  Po  is -the  lovely  range 
of  hnis  called  the  Collma  di  Torino, 
rising  to  the  height  of  nearly  1600  feet. 
They  are  sparkling  with  viUas;  their 
valleys  are  richly  clothed  with  vegeta- 


IG 


Boute  1. — Turin — Climate — Cathedral.  Sect.  1. 


tion;  and  advantage  has  been  taken  of 
these  varieties  of  surface  in  many  of  the 
beautifol  gardens  and  grounds  attached 
to  the  villas. 

The  climate  of  Turin  is  influenced  by 
the  vicinity  of  the  Alps  j  the  winters 
are  cold  and  foggy,  the  quantity  of  rain 
is  considerable;  and  hail-storms  are 
frequent  in  summer,  when  the  crops 
are  sometimes  literally  cut  in  pieces  by 
tliom ;  hence  the  institution  of  insur- 
ance offices  against  this  risk. 

The  architect  principally  employed 
ht  Turin  by  Carlo  Emanuele  II.  was 
Guarini  (1624-1683),  a  Theatme  monk, 
an  able  mathematician,  and  who  well 
used  his  mathematical  knowledge  in  his 
bold  and  daring  constructions.  Juvara, 
a  Sicilian  by  birth  (1685-1735),  was 
much  patronised  by  Vittorio  Amedeo 
II.  There  is  a  great  difference  in  the 
style  of  these  two  architects,  but  both 
have  in  common  a  neglect  of  the  rules 
of  Vitruvius  or  Falladio;  more  mode- 
rated perhaps  in  Juvara,  but  carried  to 
the  utmost  extent  in  Guarini.  Hence 
both  have  been  much  criticised. 

The  Cathedral^  or  DtiomOy  is  the 
oldest  of  the  ecclesiastical  edifices  in 
Turin.  The  original  structure  was  foxmd- 
ed  by  Agilulph  King  of  the  Lombards, 
about  602.  The  present  building  was 
begun  1498,  and  consecrated  in  1505. 
The  architect's  name  is  unknown,  Bac- 
cio  Pintelli  by  some  being  supposed  to 
have  designed  it,  whilst  others  attribute 
it  to .  Meo  del  Cctprino :  it  has  been 
much  altered,  and  some  arabesques  in 
the  pilasters  of  the  fayade  are  the  only 
remarkable  portions  of  the  original 
structure.  The  interior  has  been  very 
recently  decorated  with  frescoes.  The 
vaulting  contains  subjects  from  Scrip- 
ture history,  from  the  expulsion  of 
Adam  and  ^ve  from  Paradise  to  the 
giving  of  the  Law.  Over  the  arches  are 
the  principal  events  in  the  life  of  St. 
John  the  Baptist ;  at  the  west  end  is  a 
copy  of  the  Cenacolo  of  Leonardo  da 
Viuci.  The  older  pictures  are  not 
very  remarkable.  The  best  are  the  fol- 
lowing :  Albert  Durer,  the  Virgin  and 
Saints,  in  the  2nd  chapel  on  rt. — F. 


Zucchero,  the  iResurrection. — Casella, 
St.  Cosmo  and  St.  Bamiano. — ^Two 
statues,  by  Fierre  le  Gh'os,  of  Sta.  Te- 
resa and  Sta.  Christina,  ];^ave  been 
much  praised ;  but  except  in  their 
mechanical  execution  they  have  not 
great  merit; 

There  are  few  sepulchral  monuments 
in  this  church.  The  most  remarkable 
is  that  in  the  winter  choir,  of  Claude 
Seyssell,  who,  after  filling  successively 
the  places  of  professor  in  the  university 
of  Turin,  and  of  Master  of  Requests  in 
France,  where  he  was  employed  by 
Louis  XII.  on  several  diplomatic  mis- 
sions, became  Bishop  of  Marseilles,  and, 
subsequently.  Archbishop  of  Turin, 
where  he  died  in  1520. 

The  high  altar  is  richly  ornamented : 
in  the  1.  transept  is  the  tribune,  or 
gallery  for  the  royal  family. 

The  sacristy  contains  several  magni- 
ficent crosses,  vases,  reliquiaries,  and 
the  like,  of  which  the  chief  is  a  large 
statue  of  the  Virgin,  crowned,  aijd 
standing  imder  a  silver-gilt  canopy. 
On  the  festival  of  the  Nativity  of  the 
Virgin  (8th  Sept.)  a  procession  takes 
place,  equally  in  honour  of  the  Virgin 
and  in  commemoration  of  the  deli- 
very of  the  city  from  the  French  (see 
Supergay  p.  30)  in  1706.  Vittorio 
Amedeo,  assisted  by  the  Imperial  and 


Prussian  troops,  under  Prince  Eugene 
and  Field  Marshal  Daun,  who  occupied 
Turin,  and  the  Prince  of  Anhalt,  gained 
a  complete  and  decisive  victory.  The 
French  lost  153  pieces  of  cannon  and 
60  mortars;  this  victory  was  the  sal- 
vation of  the  house  of  Savoy,  whose 
destruction  was  sought  by  Louis  XIV, 
with  the  most  inveterate  antipathy. 
Of  late  years  this  procession  has  been 
so  much  reduced  in  splendour  as  to 
be  now  scarcely  worth  the  traveller's 
putting  himself  out  of  the  way  to  wit- 
ness it.  Another  procession  takes  place 
on  the  festival  of  Corpus  Domini. 

Behind  the  cathedral,  seen  through 
the  arch  over  the  high  altar,  and  en- 
tered by  a  flight  of  stairs  on  the  rt., 
is  the  chapel  of  the  Santo  Sindone^  or 
SudariOf  considered- as  the  masterpiece 


Piedmont. 


Moute  1. — Turin — Santo  Sudario. 


17 


of  Ghiarmi.    Its  cupola  is   formed  of 
arched  ribs,  firom  the  summits  of  which 
others  spring  in  succession,  thus  form- 
ing a  sort  of  dome.    The  capitals  of 
the  columns,  and  some  other  omanf^- 
tal  portions,  are  of  bronze.    In  these 
capitals    the  crown   of  thorns  is  in- 
troduced   amidst    the    leaves    of  the 
acanthus.   The  pavement  is  inlaid  with 
bronze  stars.   In  the  centre  is  the  altar, 
of  black  marble,  upon  which  is  placed  the 
shrine,  bnlliant  with  gold,  silver,  and 
precious   stones.     Four  sUver  lamps, 
given  by  the  late  queen,  are  suspended 
on  either  side.    The  Santo  SudariOf  ac- 
cording to  the  ecclesiastical  legend,  is 
one  of  the  folds  of  the  shroud  in  which 
our  Lord  was  wrapped  by  Joseph  of 
Arimathea,  and  on  which  an  impression 
was  left  of  the  body ;  other  folds  being 
preserved  at  Bome,  at  Besan9on,  and 
at  Cadouin  in  P^rigord.    The  one  at 
Turin  was  brought  from  Cyprus,  and 
presented   in  1452,  by  Margherite  de 
Ohami,  the  descendant  of  a  nobleman 
of  Champagne,  who  was  said  to  have 
obtained  it  during  the  Crusades  :  but 
there  is  no    mention  of  its  existence 
until     the    fifteenth    century,    when, 
having  been  given  by  Margherite  to 
Duke  Louis  II.,  it  was  first  deposited  at 
Cfaamb^ry,  from  which  it  was  brought 
to  Turin,  in  1578,  by  Emanuel  Philibert, 
for  the  piupose  of  enabling  St.  Carlo 
Borromeo  to  venerate  it  without  the 
fatigue  of  crossing  the  Alps.    While 
it  was   at  Chambery  it  was  invoked 
by  Francis  I.  previous  to  the  battle 
of  Marignano,  and  on  his  return  to 
France  he  went  on  foot  from  Lyons  to 
worship  it.    A  sitting  statue  of  the  late 
Queen  Maria  Adelaide,  by  RevelU,  a 
Qenoese   sculptor,  has    been  recently 
erected  in  this  chapel.    In  the  niches 
round  the  sanctuary  have  l^een  placed 
by  Sling  Charles  Albert  monuments  to 
four  of  the  most  renowned  members 
of  the  house  of  Savoy — viz.  to  Emanuel 
Philibert,  whose  remains  are  beneath 
— a  fine  work  by  Marcheai;  to  Prince 
Thomas  of  Savoy,  from  whom  descend 
the    present    Sovereigns  of  Italy,    of 
the  branch  of  Congnano,  by  Qaggim, 

I 


a  Genoese  and  pupil  of  Canova;  to 
Charles  Emanuel  II.,  by  Fracaroli ;  and 
to  Amedeo  VIII.,  by  Cacciatori,  The 
inscriptions  are  from  the  pen  of  Cava- 
liere  Cibrario. 

Many  of  the  other  churches  of  Turin 
are  splendidly  decorated :  amongst  these 
may  be  noticed — 

Ch,  of  La  Consolata,  which  derives 
its  name  from  a  supposed  miraculous 
painting  of  the  Virgin,  the  object  of 
much  veneration.  The  picture  is,  in 
the  opinion  of  Lanzi,  the  production  of 
a  pupil  of  the  school  of  G-iotto,  though 
attributed  by  the  legend  to  the  age  of 
St.  Eusebius,  Bishop  of  VerceUi,  in  the 
4th  centuiT.  This  building  is  a  com- 
bination of  three  churches  opening  into 
each  other ;  the  most  ancient  founded 
in  the  10th  centy.  by  the  monks  of  the 
abbey  of  Novalesa,  after  their  expulsion 
by  the  Saracens,  and  dedicated  to  St. 
Andrew.  The  present  edifice  dates  from 
the  end  of  the  17th  centy. ;  the  archi- 
tect was  Guarini.  Juvara  subsequently 
erected  the  inner  ch.  and  high  altar.  It 
is  richly  decorated  with  marbles,  many 
of  which  are  very  beautiftd.  In  a  recess 
on  1.  of  altar  is  a  monument  to  the  two 
last  Queens  of  Sardinia,  Maria  Teresa 
and  Maria  Adelaide,  with  good  kneeling 
marble  statues.  The  whole  ch.  and 
corridor  leading  to  it  are  covered  with 
ex  votosy  chiefly  paintings  of  the  rudest 
kind.  On  the  Piazza  opposite  the  ch. 
stands  a  handsome  column  of  Biella 
granite,  erected  in  1835,  surmounted  by 
a  statue  of  the  Virgin  of  the  Consolata, 
to  commemorate  the  cessation  of  the 
cholera. 

Ch,  del  Corpus  Domini  (one  of 
the  most  decorated  in  Turin),  built 
by  Vitozzi  in  1607  ;  but  the  whole  of 
the  interior  is  from  the  designs  of  Coimt 
Alfieri.  It  is  very  rich,  and  is  a  charac- 
teristic specimen  of  the  architect  and 
of  his  age.  In  the  nave  is  a  railed-in 
marble  inscription,  on  the  spot  where 
it  took  place,  to  commemorate  the 
miraculous  recovery  of  a  piece  of  Sacra- 
mental plate    containing  the  blessed 


18 


Houte  1. — Tunn^^  Churches — liot/dl  Palace,  Sect.  I. 


wafer,  which,  heing  stolen  during  the 

Eillage  of  Exilles  by  a  soldier,  and 
idden  in  one  of  his  psuiniers,  the  ass 
carrying  it  refused  to  pass  the  church 
door  J  the  sacred  yase  fell  to  the  ground, 
and  the  wafer,  rising  into  the  air,  re- 
mained suspended  there,  encircled  with 
rays  of  light,  until  the  bishop  and  his 
clergy  came  out  to  receive  it.  This 
singular  miracle,  said  to  have  taken 
place  on  the  6th  of  June,  1453,  is  repre- 
sented in  3  paintings  on  the  vault  of 
the  nave. 

CA.  of  San  Domenico  contains  a  pic- 
ture of  the  Virgin  and  Child  presenting 
the  rosary  to  the  patron  saint,  by 
Guercino, 

Ch,  of  San  Mlippo.  Tliis  church  was 
one  of  the  trials  of  skiU  of  Guarini,  but 
here  it  failed  him  j  and  the  cupola, 
which  was  somewhat  upon  the  plan  of 
that  of  the  Santo  Sudario,  with  a  great 
part  of  the  cRurch,  fell  in  1714.  It 
was  rebuilt  by  Juvara.  San  Filippo 
is  one  of  the  finest  chmrches  in  Turin. 
Over  the  heavy  high  altar,  supported 
by  6  barbarous  torse  columns,  is  a 
painting  of  the  Virgin  and  Child  with 
S.  John  and  S.  Eusebius,  and  2  holy 
persons  of  the  House  of  Savoy,  by  Carlo 
Maratta.  In  other  parts  of  the  church 
are  pictures  of  S.  Philip  before  the 
Virgin,  by  Solimena,  and  of  S.  John 
Nepomucene,  by  Seb.  Conca, 

Ch,  of  San  Lorenzo^  on  the  Piazza 
del  Castello,  an  extreme  example  of 
the  fancy  of  Gruarini,  is  curious  from 
its  fantastical  dome,  formed  on  ribs, 
each  of  which  is  the  chord  of  3-8ths 
of  a  cu'cle.  It  was  erected  by  Ema- 
nuele  Filiberto  in  consequence  of  a  vow 
for  his  success  dt  the  battle  of  St. 
Quentin. 

La  gran  Madre  di  Dioy  opposite  the 
bridge  over  the  Po,  was  begun  1818 
in  conmiemoration  of  the  restoration 
of  the  royal  family,  and  finished  about 
1840.  The  building  is  in  imitation  of 
the  Pantheon  at  Rome,  the  arcliitect 


Buonsignore.  This  edifice  is  said  to 
have  cost  100,0002.  sterling,  chiefly 
contributed  by  king  Carlo  Felice,  and 
forms  a  fine  close  to  the  vista  a^  the 
extremity  of  the  Via  del  Po. 

Ch,  ofSanMauriziOfhelongmg  to  the 
military  order  of  St.  Maurizio  and  S. 
Lazzaro,  with  an  oval  cupola;  and  a 
recent  fa9ade  by  Mosca, 

There  are  nearly  40  other  churches  in 
Turin,  none  very  remarkable  for  their 
architecture,  their  historical  interest,  or 
the  objects  of  art  which  they  contain. 

A  handsome  Protestant  chwrch  was 
commenced  in  1851,  and  consecrated 
2  years  afterwards,  in  the  fine  Vlale 
dei  Platani  of  the  Stradale  del  Re, 
chiefly  for  the  use  of  the  Vaudois,  of 
whom  there  is  a  considerable  number 
settled  at  Turin.  The  service  is  per- 
formed in  French,  according  to  the 
Vaudois  rite.  The  building,  by  the 
architect  Formento,  is  in  a  Lombardo- 
Norman  style.  The  principal  part  of 
the  expense  was  contributed  by  the 
government,  which,  for  this,  and  for 
even  having  assented  to  the  erection 
of  such  an  edifice,  lias  been  visited 
with  great  animadversion  by  the  bi- 
goted party,  and  by  the  ever  illiberal 
councils  of  the  Vatican. 

The  Piazza  Castello^  containing  some 
of  the  principal  public  edifices,  is  sur- 
rounded by  lofty  palaces,  which  extend 
also  along  the  Via  del  Po,  a  noble 
perspective,  terminating  with  the  green 
slopes  of  la  Collina ;  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  the  Via  di  Dora  Grossa,  on 
the  other  side  of  the  Piazza,  terminates 
in  the  opposite  direction  with  the  pro- 
spect of  the  snowy  peaks  of  the  Al})s 
about  Mont  Cenis. 

The  Royal  Palace^  on  the  N.  side  of 
the  Piazza,  was  raised  by  Carlo  Ema- 
nuele  II.,  fifom  the  designs  of  tlio 
Count  di  Castellamonte.  The  exterior 
has  no  pretension  to  magnificence,  ex- 
cept from  its  size.  The  fijie  iron  rail- 
ing and  gates  which  separate  it  from 


Piedmont.      Ikoute  1. — Turin — Royal  Palace — ArmoU7y, 


19 


the  Piazza  are  from  designs  by  Palagi ; 
the  bronze  statues  of  Castor  and  Pollux 
by  Sangiorgio.      The  interior  is  well 
arranged,  and,  besides  the  usual  apart- 
ments for  the  state  and  residence  oi 
a  sovereign,  contains  within  it  many 
of  the  public  offices.     On  the  princi- 
pal  staircase  is   an  equestrian  statue 
of  Vittorio    Amedeo    I.,     commonly 
called   "  II   Cavallo  di  Marmo"   the 
animal  being   much   more  prominent 
than  his  rider.     The  figures  of  captives 
at  the  feet  of  the  horse  are  by  Adriano 
Frisio,  a  scholar  of  GKov.  da  Bologna. 
The  great  old-fashioned  hall,  formerly 
appropriated  to  the  Swiss  G-uards,  is 
open  to  the  public.     The  large  hall  or 
anteroom    of  the  Guards   is  covered 
with  paintings  of  battle-scenes :  open- 
ing out  of  it  on  the  rt.  is  the  suite  of 
royal  apartments.     In  the  first  *room 
is  a  large  picture  of  the  Judgment  of 
Solomon,  hj  "Podesti ;  in  the  second  a 
large  painting  of  the  battle  of  St.  Quen- 
tin,  attributed  to  Pahna  Qiovane.   The 
state  apartments  are  splendidly  furnish- 
ed ;  modem  luxury  being  united  to  the 
heavy  magnificenfce  of  the  last  century. 
They   were  restored  and  newly  deco- 
rated during  the  reign  of  Charles  Albert, 
under  the  dnections  of  Cav.  Palagi.  The 
inlaid  floors,  in  woods  of  different  co- 
lours, are  remarkably  beautiful.    In  the 
King's  Salle  de  Travail  are  a  series  of 
modem  paintings  of  members  of  the 
House  of  Savoy  remarkable  for  their 
piety,  or  who  were  members  of  religious 
orders.    The  Great  Gallery ^  a  splendid 
apartment  overlooking  the  gardens,  con- 
tains portraits  of  sovereigns    of   the 
rrigning  family,  and  of  men  of  eminence 
in  every  depart  ment,natives  of  the  coun- 
try.      Beyond  this  is   the  apartment 
of  the  Queen,  with  magnificent  bou- 
doirs.  In  the  room  called  the  Chiarda- 
roba  delta  Medina  are  some  good  Etrus- 
can vases,  and  a  large  picture  of  Taor- 
mina,  with  -<Etna  in  the  distance,  by 
Cav.  Massimo  W  Azeglio ;  near  this  is 
the   Chapel,  gaudy  and  heavy.     The 
State  IHuing-room  contains  several  in- 
different historical  pictures — one  of  a 
tournament  at  the  Court  of  France  be- 


tween Amadeus  Vllt.  of  Savoy  and  the 
three  EngHsh  Earls  of  Harrington, 
Arundel,  and  Pembroke.  The  Salle  de 
deception  de  la  Heine  is  richly  decorated 
with  a  profusion  of  Chinese  and  Japan 
porcelain  vases.  The  last  apartment  is 
the  State  Ball-room,  which  offers  no- 
thing remarkable.  The  Chapel  of  the 
Santo  Sudario,  generally  closed  during 
the  afternoon  on  the  side  of  the  Cathe- 
dral, can  always  be  entered  from  the 
palace,  near  the  anteroom  of  the  State 
apartments. 

The  King's  Private  lAhrary,  on 
the  ground  floor,  is  a  very  handsome 
hall,  containiQg  40,000  printed  vols, 
and  2000  MSS.  Amongst  the  latter 
are  some  ciurious  documents  and  cor- 
respondence : — the  materials  sent  by 
Frederick  "the  Great "  to  Coimt  Alga- 
rotti  as  the  basis  for  the  history  of  the 
seven  years'  war ;  letters  of  Emanuel 
Philibert,  Prince  Eugene,  and  Napo- 
leon ;  many  Arabic  and  Syrian  manu- 
scripts. Cavahere  Promis  is  the  libra- 
rian. There  is  also  a  valuable  collection 
of  drawings  by  old  masters,  formed  by 
Volpato.  In  the  passage  leading  into 
the  library  are  several  early  Christian 
inscriptions  from  the  Catacombs  at 
Home,  a  few  in  Greek  characters.  The 
palace  communicates  by  a  wing,  called 
the  Galerie  di  Beaumont,  with  the  for- 
mer offices  of  the  Secretaries  of  State. 

Under  the  roof  of  the  palace,  and 
adjoining  the  state  apartments,  but  en- 
tered from  the  side  of  the  Piazza,  is  the 
Armeria  Megia.  This  collection  was 
formed  in  1834,  partly  from  the  ar- 
senals of  Turin  and  Genoa,  and  partly 
from  private  collections  purchased  by 
the  late  king,  especially  that  of  the  Mar- 
tinengo  family  of  Brescia.  It  contains 
several  pieces  of  historical  interest, 
and  is  considered  as  one  of  the  prin- 
cipal shows  of  Turin.  It  had  been  judi- 
ciously arranged  by  the  late  director, 
Count  Seyssell  d' Aix ;  and  is  open  every 
day  except  Sunday,  from  12  to  2 
o'clock  P.M.  Permission  to  visit  it  is 
obtainable  in  the  library  below,  from 
the  concierge.  The  following  are 
amongst  the  chief  objects : — > 


20 


BoiUe  1. — Turin — Ai*moury. 


Sect.  I. 


20,  33.  Two  suits  which  belonged 
to  Antonio  di  Martinengo  in  the  15th 
century,  both  ornamented  with  da- 
masquine  and  other  engravings  of  ex- 
cellent design:  the  latter  (33)  is  the 
finest  in  the  collection. 

35.  The  full  suit  of  the  Duke  Ema- 
nuele  Fihberto,  or  Tete  de  Fer,  and 
worn  by  him  on  the  great  day  of  the 
battle  of  St.  Quentin.  (See  riazza  di 
San  Carlo.)  Emanuele  himself  was  a 
very  good  armourer,  not  only  in  the 
coarse  smith's  work,  but  in  the  finer 
departments  of  inlaying  with  silver,  or 
damasquining,  and  it  is  said  that  the 
armour  which  he  wore  was  his  own 
manufacture.  Pacific  as  he  was  in  the 
later  years  of  his  life,  he  never  went 
into  public  except  in  his  panoply,  and 
bearing  his  good  sword  under  his  arm. 
This  armour  is  copied  in  Marochetti's 
fine  statue  in  the  Piazza  S.  Carlo. 

37.  A  suit  fit  for  a  giant,  respecting 
wldch  there  have  been  many  conjectures. 
Nothing  is  known  of  its  history  or 
owner;  it  bears  a  ducal  coronet  and 
tlie  letter  F. 

67.  The  staff  of  command  of  Alfonso 
di  Ferrara  (1515). 

104.  The  hke  of  the  celebrated  bur- 
gomaster Tiepolo. 

239.  A  magnificent  suit  of  damas- 
quined  steel. 

275.  The  cuirass  of  Prince  Eugene, 
with  three  deep  bullet  indentations,  in 
front,  worn  by  him  at  the  battle  of 
Turin,  where,  as  before  mentioned,  the 
French  were  totally  defeated ;  and  (990) 
his  sword  worn  on  the  same  memorable 
occasion. 

288.  Cuirass  worn  by  Carlo  Ema- 
nuele III.  at  the  battle  of  Q-uastaUa, 
lyth  September,  1734. 

292-294.  Helmets  in  the  style  of 
the  Renaissance.  The  last  belonged  to 
the  celebrated  surgeon  and  anatomist 
Scarpa  of  Pavia,  who,  towards  the  close 
of  his  life,  was  as  fond  of  it  as  Dr. 
Woodward  was  of  his  shield,  and  made 
it  the  subject  of  a  special  dissertation, 
which  he  printed  privately  for  his 
friends,  illustrated  with  beautiful  en- 
gravings.   It  is  covered  with  imagery, 


representing  Jove  thundering  upon  the 
Titans. 

381-385,  394,  895.  Shields  and 
targets  in  the  same  style.  380  is  ex- 
ceedingly rich,  embossed  with  subjects 
representing  the  contests  between  Ma- 
rius  and  Jugurtha.  Amongst  the  orna- 
ments is  introduced  a  crescent,  supposed 
to  be  the  device  of  Diana  of  Poitiers ; 
but  more  probably  the  armorial  bear- 
ings of  its  owner.  It  is  of  the  best 
period  of  modem  art,  and  has  been 
attributed  to  Benvenuto  CeUini,  the 
reputed  father  of  all  works  of  this  de- 
scription. 394  is  also  very  splendid, 
representing  the  labours  of  Hercules. 

819-821.  Three  very  deUcate  tri- 
angular-bladed  stilettoes,  which,  it  is 
said,  were  carried  by  Italian  ladies  for 
the  purpose. of  ridding  themselves  of 
husbands  or  lovers. 

943.  Sword  of  Duke  Emanuele  Fili- 
berto,  formerly  preserved  in  the  "  Ca- 
mera de'  Conti,"  and  upon  which  the 
officers  of  state  were  sworn.  Amongst 
the  other  objects  worthy  of  notice  in  the 
armoury  may  be  mentioned  an  ancient 
Boman  eagle,  bearing  the  inscription 
Leg:  VIII.,  found  in  Savoy,  and  the  two 
Imperial  eagles  of  Napoleon's  Italian 
Guard,  presented  by  one  of  its 
commanders.  General  Lecchi.  The 
sword  worn  by  Napoleon  at  Ma- 
rengo ;  several  Neapolitan  flags  taken 
by  the  Piedmontese ;  the  sword  of  the 
leader  of  the  Theban  Legion,  given  to 
Duke  Charles  Emanuel  by  the  Abbey 
of  Agauno  in  1571 ;  and  the  rostrum 
of  an  ancient  galley  in  bronze,  in  the 
form  of  a  wild  boar's  head,  found  in  tho 
port  of  G^noa,  have  been  lately  added 
to  the  collection. 

The  collection  of  Oriental  arms  is 
extensive,  as  also  of  S.  American. 
Amongst  the  former  is  a  sword  of 
Tippoo  Saib,  given  by  him  to  G^n.  de 
Boigne,  a  Savoyard  officer,  who  had 
been  much  employed  by  the  native 
princes  of  India.  The  series  of  fire- 
arms of  different  periods  is  also  (con- 
siderable, and  very  many  interesting  as 
works  of  manufacture  and  art,  amougst 
which  may  be  particularised — 1534,  the 


Piedmont. 


Houte  1 . — Turin —  Theatre —  Castle. 


21 


arqoebuse  which  belonged  to  Emma- 
nuel Philibert;  1647,  another,  incrusted 
with  iyory,  with  designs  of  mythological 
subjects ;  and,  1548,  a  third,  haying  ex- 
ceedingly beautiful  subjects  sculptured 
on  ivory,  representing  Meleager  and 
Atalanta.  In  the  anteroom  are  busts 
of  some  Sardinian  mihtary  celebrities, 
and  models  of  warlike  engines  and 
apparatus. 

At  the  extremity  of  the  armoury  is  a 
smaller  apartment ;  over  the  door  is  a 
marble  bust  of  King  Carlo  Alberto,  with 
his^words,  and  two  Austrian  standards, 
captured,  at  Somma  Campagna,  during 
the  campaign  of  1849.  This  cabinet 
contams  the  private  collection  of  me- 
dals formed  by  the  late  king:  it  is 
particularly  rich  in  those  of  the  house 
of  Savoy,  and  of  the  Italian  States 
in  modem  times ;  over  the  cases 
of  the  medals  are  sevenfl  bronzes 
found  in  the  Island  of  Sardinia,  sup- 
posed to  be  of  Phoenician  origin,  and 
a  series  of  Boman  bronzes  discovered 
in  the  ruins  of  the  Boman  station 
of  Industria,  amongst  which  the  sta- 
tue of  a  youthful  Cupid  is  very  beau- 
tiful. 

Adjoining  the  palace,  and,  in  fact, 
forming  part  of  it,  for  there  is  a  con- 
tinued series  of  internal  communica- 
tions, are  -the  following  buildings  and 
establishments : — 

The  JReali  Se^retarie,  contained  the 
offices  of  secretaries  of  state  and  the 
principal  departments  of  government 
before 'its  removal  to  Florence. 

The  ArcMvi,  in  which  is  deposited 
a  very  rich  collection  of  diplomas  and 
charters  ;  a  selection  from  these  is  in 
course  of  pubUcation.  Annexed  to 
these  archives  is  a  very  select  hbrary  of 
early  printed  books  and  manuscripts. 

The  Accademia  Milita/re  forms  also  a 
part  of  the  same  pile.  It  encloses  a  large 
quadrangle,  of  handsome  and  scenic 
effect.  The  institution,  which  was  re- 
organized in  1839,  is  said  to  be  very 
complete  and  efficient. 

li&stly,  the  Teatro  Megi%  It  was 
built  from  the  designs  of  the  Count 


Alfieri,  and  was  the  building  which 
made  his  fortime.  Alfieri,  bom  at 
Home,  was  educated  as  an  advocate; 
but  his  exceeding  love  for  architecture 
soon  induced  him  to  abandon  the  bar. 
He  never  [mentioned  the  name  of  Mi- 
chael Angelo  without  taking  off  his  hat 
or  beretta.  Having  been  employed  at 
Tortona,  when  Carlo  Emanuele  II. 
happened  to  pass  through  that  town, 
the  monarch  was  so  pleased  with  liis 
work,  that  he  took  the  young  ad- 
vocate into  his  service,  and  at  once 
intrusted  the  building  of  this  theatre 
to  him ;  and  so  satis&ctory  was  the 
production,  that  Alfieri  was  forthwith 
appointed  court  architect,  and  became 
the  object  of  every  species  of  favour.  ' 
He  obtained  the  reputation  of  the  best 
architect  of  his  time. 

In  the  centre  of  the  Piazza  del  Cas- 
tello  is  the  ancient  castle,  now  con- 
verted into  the  Palazzo  Madama.     Of 
the  old  castle,  founded  by  Ludovico 
d*Acaya  in  the  early  part  of  the  14th 
century,  the  principal  vestiges  are  the 
two  polygonal  towers,  which  have  been 
before  mentioned.    Two  others  exist, 
concealed  by  the    modem   buildings. 
When  restored  by  Amedeus  VIII.,  1416, 
this  castle  was  at  the  W.  extremity  of 
the  city.  The  principal  front  was  ad  ded 
to  the  old  structure  in  1720,  after  the  de- 
signs of  eTuvara,  and  is  an  excellent  spe- 
cimen of  street  architecture.   The  other 
three  were  to  have  been  completed  on 
the  same  plan.    It  was  fitted  up  as 
a  palace  for  Madama  Meale^  mother 
of    King    Victor    Amadous    II.,    in 
1718;    until   lately  it  contained  the 
Royal  Q-allery  of  Pictures.     The  in- 
terior     contains      some      handsome 
apartments  in  the  Louis  XIV.  style, 
hitherto  appropriated  to   the    offices 
and  committee-rooms  of  the  ItaUan 
Senate,  which  held  its  assemblies  in 
the  large  hall  until  the  transfer  of  the 
government  to  Florence.     In  front  of 
the  P.  Madama,  and  facing  the  wide 
Via  di  Dora  Grossa,  the  entrance  from 
Mont  Cenis,  stands  a  statue  of  a  Pied- 
montese  soldier,  a  good  work  by  Vela, 
the  Lugano  sculptor,  erected   oy  the 


22 


Jioute  1. — Turin-'GaUery  of  Pictures. 


Sect.  I. 


Milanese  emigrants  to  the  Piedmontcse 
army,  in  commemoration  of  its  heroic 
deeds  for  the  hberation  of  their  country 
in  1849 ;  and  on  the  principal  land- 
ing-place a  statue  of  King  Carlo  Al- 
berto by  Cevalto,  placed  here  by  Vic- 
torio  Emanuele  and  the  Italian  Parha- 
ment. 

Upon  the  N.W.  tower  of  the  palace 
is  the  Royal  Observatory,  placed  here 
in  1822. 

Palazzo  delta  Meale  Accademia  delle 
Scienze,  a  large  unfinished-looking 
building,  in  the  street  of  the  same 
name,  derives  its  name  from  its  being 
the  place  of  meeting  of  the  principal 
Scientific  and  Literary  Society  of  the 
Piedmontese  provinces.  Besides  a  good 
library  belonging  to  that  body,  it  con- 
tains the  Pinacoteca,  or  Royal  Gralleryof 
Paintings ;  the  Museum  of  Antiquities ; 
and  the  Museum  of  Natural  History. 
The  entrance  to  the  two  former  is  by  a 
handsome  doorway  opening  out  of  the 
Piazza  di  Carignano ;  to  the  latter, 
from  the  Via  dell'  Accademia  delle 
Scienze.  All  are  open  to  visitors  daily 
from  9  to  3,  except  on  certain  festi- 
vals. 

The  Finacoteca,  or  JRoyal  Gallery  of 
JPaintinffs,  was  formed  by  King  Carlo 
Alberto  with  pictures  scattered  over 
the  different  royal  residences,  and  by 
some  important  purchases  from  Genoa. 
Originally  placed  in  the  state  apart- 
ments of  the  Palazzo  Madama,  it 
has  been  removed  dmnng  the  present 
year  into  a  suite  of  15  rooms, 
handsomely  fitted  up  for  the  purpose, 
on  the  first  floor  of  the  Palazzo  dell' 
Accademia  delle  Scienze,  opening  out 
of  the  Piazza  di  Carignano.  There 
is  a  very  fair  catalogue  sold  at  the 
door. 

The  Royal  Q-allery  has  been  illus- 
trated in  Marquis  Robert  Azeglio's 
work  entitled  'La  Real  Gralleria  di 
Torino,'  who  was  its  first  dii'ector ;  a 
post  in  which  he  has  been  succeeded 
by  his  still  more  eminent  brother, 
Massimo  AzegHo,  as  an  artist,  writer, 
and    statesman,     one    of    the    most 


brilliant     omamentfl    of    regenerated 
Italy. 

As  the  present  arrangement  is  pro- 
visional, and  not  completed,  we  are 
unable  to  describe  the  contents  of  the 
Pinacoteca  in  their  local  order.  The 
paintings  are  aiTanged  in  15  rooms  on 
two  parallel  hues,  one  opening  towards 
the  Via  deU'  Accademia,  the  other  on 
the  court  of  its  palace. 

Entering  from  the  great  stairs,  and 
turning  to  the  1.,  we  reach  a  large 
octagonal  hall  containing  portraits  of 
celebrated  individuals  of  the  House  of 
Savoy  :  the  most  remarkable  being — 
552,  Philippe  de  Champagne^  portrait 
of  Prince  Tomaso  and  his  wife  j  557, 
GuidOf  portrait  of  Cardinal  Maurice  : 
549,  Vandyke,  portrait  on  horseback  of 
Prince  Thomas ;  Horace  Vernety  eques- 
trian portrait  of  Carlo  Alberto  ;  arid 
busts  of  Emanuel  Philibert,  Carlo  Ema- 
nuele, and  Cardinal  Maurice,  by  Coh 
lini.  There  are  some  Battle-pieces, 
in  which  the  sovereigns  of  Piedmont 
played  a  part. 

In  the  next  two  halls  have  been 
placed  the  chefs-d'oeuvre  of  the  school 
of  Piedmont,  the  most  worthy  of 
notice  being  by  Gaudenzio  Ferrari; 
viz.,  16,  the  Conversion  of  St.  Paul ; 
19,  St.  Peter;  18,  the  Resurrection. 
There  are  others  by  Sodomay  Luiniy 
Lanini,  Moncaloo,  and  Paolo  Olivieri, 

Beyond  here,  in  one  hall,  are  two 
fine  large  works,  72,  74,  by  PoaaI 
Veronese;  and  at  the  extremity  of 
this  range,  looking  over  the  street,  a 
room  entirely  devoted  to  paintings  on 
porcelain,  chiefly  copies  of  chefs- 
d'oeuvres  of  the  Italian  school  by  Con' 
stantin. 

In  the  next  room  is  an  interesting 
collection  of  paintings  of  flowers  ;  be- 
yond which  are  halls  containing  the 
large  subjects  by  Paul  Veronese  for- 
merly in  the  Durazzo  Palace  at  Grenoa, 
and  the  chefs-d'oeuvre  of  the  Roman 
school,  amongst  which  is,  39,  the  cele- 
brated Madonna  delta  Tenda  of  Ra- 
phael, on  panel — a  very  beautiful 
small  picture,  whether  it  be  really  by 
Raphael  t>r  not ;  for  there  are  at  least 


Piedmont,         Hoitte  1. — Turin — GaUery  of  Pidures, 


23 


three  repetitions,  all  claiming  to  be 
originals  :  one  is  at  Munich,  another  is 
or  was  in  Spain,  and  this  is  the  third. 
Its  history  is  said  to  be  as  follows : — 
a  certain  Cardinal  delle  Lanze  gaye 
it  as  a  present  to  a  Countess  Porpo- 
rate  :  upon  her  death,  it  came  to  a 
Countess  of  BrogHo,  who  sold  it  for 
800  firancs.  It  then  passed,  no  one 
knows  exactly  how,  to  Professor  Bou- 
cheron,  who  kindly  "  relinquished  it," 
as  tlie  phrase  goes,  to  the  late  king,  when 
Prince  of  Carignano,  for  75,000  francs 
(3000^.).  Passavant  says  that  compe- 
tent judges  consider  it  to  be  a  good 
copy  by  Pierino  del  Vaga. 

In    the    next    room    are    the   fine 
paintings,    Nos.  214,   215,   216,  217, 
of   the    four    elements,    Earth,   Air, 
Rre,  and  Water,   by  Albani.    These 
allegorical   paintings    are    among   the 
finest   works    of  Albani.     They  were 
painted  for  Cardinal  Maurice  of  Savoy; 
and    Albani    in    two    of  his    letters, 
written    in    1626,   has  explained  the 
meaning  of  his   allegories  with  much 
clearness  and  originality.  Venus  repre- 
sents fire.    The  Cardinal  had  directed 
the  painter  to  giye  him  "  una  copiosa 
quantitcL    di    amoretH;"    and    Albani 
served  him  to  his  heart's  content.     The 
amoretti  in  this  and  the  other  com- 
panion pictures  are  exquisitely  playful. 
Juno    is    the   representative    of  Air; 
and  her  nymphs  are,  with  much  odd 
ingentdty,   converted  into  the  atmos- 
pheric changes.    Dew,  rain,  Hghtning, 
and  thunder  form  one  group.     Water 
is  figured  by  the  triumph  of  Galatea : 
at    the    bottom    of   the    picture    are 
nymphs  and  Cupid  fishing  for  pearls 
and  coral.      !EcMrth  is  personified  by 
CJybele,  whose  car  is  surrounded  by 
tliree  seasons,  winter  being  excluded, 
^lere  the  Cardinal's  Cupids  are  occu- 
pied in  various  agricultural  labours. 

Amongst  the  paintings  of  the  Pina- 
coteca  the  following  may  be  noticed  as 
tlxe  most  remarkable : — ^77,  79,  80,  and 
S4,  by  Titian  ;  586,  a  Virgin  and  Child, 
\yy  Sandro  Botticelli;  125,  a  Virgin 
arXid  Child,  by  Cetare  da  Sesfo ;  83  and 
S^  two  good  views  of  Turin,  by  C<w»a- 


letii;  590,  a  Holy  Family,  by  Sodomaj 
236,  Herodias,  by  B.  Luini  ;  242,  the 
Children  of  Charles  I.  of  England,  and, 
246,  of  the  House  of  Savoy,  both  by 
VandyJce ;  266,  a  Jewish  Babbin,  by 
Bemhrandt ;  389,  a  fine  portrait  of  an 
old  Man,  by  the  same ;  319,  a  lovely 
landscape,  by  Wouvermans ;  297,  a 
triptych  of  the  Crucifixion,  by  I/itca 
da  Leiden, 

The  Museum  of  Antiquities^  upon 
the  groimd  floor,  has  acquired  much 
importance  of  late  years  by  the  addi- 
tion of  the  Mttseo  JSgizzio,  composed 
in  great  part  of  the  collections  formed 
by  Cavaliere  Drovetti,  a  Piedmontese 
by  birth,  whilst  he  was  Consul- Gene- 
ral of  France  in  Egypt,  and  which  was 
purchased  by  King  Carlo  FeUce  in 
1820,  after  negotiations  had  failed  for 
securing  it  for  the  British  Museum. 
The  antiquities  are  arranged  in  two 
suites  of  apartments  :  one  on  the 
ground  floor,  where  the  more  massive 
objects,  statues,  sphinxes,  sarcophagi, 
and  inscriptions,  are  placed;  the  other 
on  the  upper  floor  of  the  palace,  con- 
taining the  smaller  Egyptian  objects, 
Boman  bronzes,  &c. 

The  division  on  the  ground  floor 
consists  of  large  halls :  one  of  which 
is  exclusively  occupied  by  the  Egyp- 
tian monuments,  the  greater  part  from 
Drovetti' s  collection  ;  they  are  well 
arranged,  and  an  excellent  catalogue 
of  them  by  the  deputy  keeper,  Signor 
Occurti,  may  be  purchased  at  the  door, 
in  which  their  description  is  preceded 
by  a  notice  on  the  present  state  of  our 
knowledge  on  hieroglyphical  interpreta- 
tion, Egyptian  chronology,  &c. 

It  niay  be  useful  to  state  that  the 
greater  part  of  Drovetti' s  specimens, 
having  been  collected  about  Thebes, 
Luxor,  &c.,  belong,  like  the  more  mas- 
sive objects  in  our  British  Museum,  to 
the  period  of  the  18th  and  19th  Dy- 
nasties, or  from  the  17th  to  the  13th 
centuries  B.C.  They  are  classed  under 
the  four  heads  of — ^A,  Divinities  a^id 
Religious  Monuments ;  B,  Kings,  Boyal 
Monuments,  Sphrnxes,  &c. ;  C,    Civil 


24 


Eoute  I, — Turin — Egyptian  Museum* 


Sect.  I. 


Monuments ;  D,  va/na^  Sarcophagi, 
Steles  or  Votive  Tablets,  Bas-reliefs, 
&c.  The  following  are  the  objects  best 
worthy  of  the  attention  of  the  visitor, 
as  he  wiU  pass  them  in  review,  adopting 
Signor  Occurti's  classification : 

A  6,  fragment  of  a  marble  statue 
of  the  goddess  Neith;  A  9,  10,   11, 
12,   four   lion-headed   female    statues 
of  Pasht,  or  Bubastes ;  A  4,  group  of 
Ammon  Bha  and  Horus ;   A  2,  sitting 
statue  of  Phtah,  the  Vulcan  of  the 
Greeks,  of  the  time  of  the  18th  Dynasty 
(1600  years  B.C.)  j  A  20,  granite  statue 
of   Pasht;     B    2,    sitting   statue    of 
Thothmes  III.,  in  black  granite  (16th 
century  B.C.) ;   B  3,  crouching  colossal 
statue  in  granite  of  Amenopms  II.,  the 
contemporary  of  Moses  (16th  century 
B.C.) ;  G 1,  statue  in  basalt  of  Amenopbis 
III.,   or  Memnon   (1430  years  B.C.), 
the  most  powerful  of  Egypt's  kings ; 
0  23,  a  group  of  two  statues  of  the 
period  of  Amenophis  I. ;  D  1  and  3, 
a  very  beautiful  sarcophagus  with  its 
cover   in   green    basalt ;    D    24,   pe- 
destal of  an  altar  in    black    granite 
(this  is  perhaps  the  most  interesting 
reUc  in  the  whole   collection,  for  its 
remote  date:    it  bears  the   name    of 
Meri  of  the  12th  dynasty,  who  lived 
8000  years  B.C.)  j  D  37,  a  hollow  marble 
plinth  with  a   Greek    inscription    in 
honour  of   Ptolemy  Epiphaiies,    200 
years  B.C.)  ;  D  56, 57,  two  groups  of  the 
Greek  period  with  inscriptions.     On 
the  floor  of  this  hall  have  been  let  into 
the  pavement  several  Mosaics  of  the 
Boman  period,  discovered    at    Stam- 
pace  in  Sardinia,  offering  good  repre- 
sentations  of  animals,    such  as  lions, 
bears,  and  antelopes,  with  a  male  figure 
playing   on  a  lyre,  who  formed   the 
centre  of  the  group,  supposed  to  be 
Orpheus.     A  1,  statue  oi  Phtha  with 
aNilometer;  A3,  group  of  three  sit- 
ting statues  in  granite  of  Bhamses  II. 
(Sesostris)  between  Ammon  Bha  and 
Mut  (14th  century  b.c.)  ;    A  7,  13, 
female  statues  with  a  lion's  head  of  the 
goddess  Pasht  (Bubastes) ;  A  30,  colos- 
8al  head  of  a  ram  in  sandstone ;  B  4, 
group   of   Horus    and    his    daughter 
Mutlmiet  (15th  century  B.C.)  ;  B  5,  6, 


statues  in  granite  of  Bhamses  II.,  Meia- 
moun,  or  Bhamses  the  Great,  or  Sesos- 
tris, who  reigned  in  the  14th  centuiy 
B.C. ;  B  7,  foot  of  a  colossal  statue  of 
Menepthidi,  or  Amenophis,  son  of 
Bhamses  the  Great;  B  8,  colossal  statue, 
in  red  sandstone,  of  Seti  or  Se  Ptah, 
son  of  Menepthah;  B  16,  17,  two  co- 
lossal sphinxes  in  sandstone  from  be- 
fore the  palace  at  Kamac,  erected  in 
the  17th  century  B.C.;  D  4,  lid  of  a 
sarcophagus  in  granite  of  Thothmes, 
son  of  Isis ;  D  8,  a  curious  bilingual 
inscription  on  a  slab  of  granite,  in 
demoUc  and  Greek  characters,  contain- 
ing a  decree  of  the  priests  in  honour  of 
OdllimachuB  during  the  reign  of  Cleo- 
patra, and  of  Ptolemy  Cssarion,  her 
son  by  Julius  CsBsar  (B.C.  44)  ;  D  22,  a 
circular  altar,  dedicated  to  several  divi- 
nities— ^probably  of  the  28th  dynasty, 
in  the  5th  century  B.C.  In  this  room 
are  several  models  of  Egnrptian  ruins : 
I>  40,  of  the  temples  oi  Ipsamboul; 
D  41,  of  Deny;  D  43,  of  Essebuah; 
D  45, 46,  of  Dakke;  D  47,  of  Ghirscieh; 
D  49,  of  Tahnis— of  Tafah,  Debodeh, 
Balagua,  &c. 

Out  of  this  Egyptian  Hall  opens 
that  of  the  Greek  and  Raman  statues^ 
a  poor  collection  compared  to  those 
of  most  other  Italian  capitals ;  it  has 
been  removed  here  from  the  Univer- 
sity. The  following  are  most  worthy 
of  notice  :  a  Sleeping  Cupid  or  Genius 
is  perhaps  the  finest  object  in  the  col- 
lection ;  it  has  been  supposed  to  be 
Greek ;  although  there  are  persons  who 
consider  it  a  copy  made  m  the  16th 
centy.  of  some  ancient  work;  a  colossal 
Oracle  Head  of  Juno,  foimd  at  Alba  in 
Piedmont,  so  arranged  as  to  be  fixed 
to  a  wall,  and  hoUowed  out,  behiild 
which  the  priest  could  remain  con- 
cealed ;  Busts  of  Vespasian  entire,  and 
of  the  Emperor  Julian,  the  latter  good, 
considering  the  period  at  which  it  was 
executed. 

The  portion  of  the  Museum  of  Anti- 
quities on  the  upper  floor  consists  of 
a  series  of  rooms,  the  three  first  of 
which  are  exclusively  devoted  to  the 
smaller  objects  of  the  Egyptian  collec- 
tion ;  in  the  first,  or  lonff  saloon,  is  a 


Piedmont. 


Houte  \, -^Turing-Egyptian  Museum, 


25 


Tery  intefresting  series  of  human  nxuiu- 
niies,  with  their  chests  or  cases,  some 
highly  decorated,  whilst  on  the  walls 
are  placed,  in  frames,  numerous  papyri, 
and  below  several  smaller  Egyptian 
statues,  Totive  tablets,  &c. 

In  the  second  large  hall  the  most 
striking  object  is  the  celebrated  Idac 
Table,  a  tablet  in  bronze  covered  with 
I        Egyptian  figures  and  hieroglyphics,  en- 
I         graved  or  sunk,  part  of  the  outlines  being 
filled  with  silvering — forming  a  kind  of 
Niello.   Considerable  imcertaintv  exists 
as  to  its  histoiy :  it  would  appear  to  have 
been  first  discovered  on  the  Aventine 
at  Rome,  near  whwe  a  Temple  of  Isis 
once  stood,  and  given  by  Pius  IH.  to  a 
son  of  Cardinal  Bembo;  having  disap- 
peared during  the  pillage  of  Bome  by 
the  Connetable  de  Bourbon,  httle  is 
known  of  what  became  of  it  until  1709, 
when  it  was  discovered  atTurin  amongst 
some  lumber ;  it  was  carried  off  to  Paris 
in  1797,  and  restored  to  Italy  at  the 
peace.     The  Isiac  Table  is  interesting 
as  being   one  of  the  first  objects   of 
Egyptian    antiquity    in   recent  times 
tluit  led  to  inquiry  as  regarded  the 
interpretation  of  hieroglyphics,  succes- 
sively explained  by  Olaus  Magnus  as 
representing  the  mythology  of  Edda ; 
by  Father  Kircher  as  containing  the 
entire  cosmogony  of  Hermes  Trisme- 
gistus  :  by  Jablonski,  Montfaucon,  and 
Winckelman,  it  is  now  clearly  ascer- 
tained that  its  hieroglyphics  have  no 
sneaning  at  all,  and  that  it  is  one  of 
-fchose  pseudo-Egyptian  productions  so 
extensively  fabricated  during  the  reign 
of  Hadrian .    There  are  also  doubts  whe- 
tiier  any  real  signification  is  conveyed  by 
tvlifi  imagery  upon  it.     In  tliis  room  are 
several  glass  cases  containing  Egyptian 
ornaments  of  every  kind  ;  a  very  com- 
plete collection  of  the  smaller  divinities 
in  terracotta,  enamel,  and  glass;  a  very 
exi^nsive  series  of  nearly  2000  scarabaei 
-^^ith  inscriptions,  amulets,   and  some 
l^eautiful  specimens  of  jewellery  moxmt- 
e<l  with  precious  stones ;  whilst  inpresses 
Around  are  several  mummies  of  animals, 
^iijoh  as  monkeys,  cats,  heads  of  calves 
ajid  bulls  (without  doubt  of  Apis),  of 
t^lxe  ibis,  falcons,  crocodiles,  and  of  seve- 
.ZV:  JMy— 1866. 


ral  species  of  fishes  from  the  Nile. 
Articles  of  food:  bread,  com,  eggs, 
onions,  dates,  &c. — even  to  ducks  ready 
for  the  spit  of  some  Egyptian  chef 
3000  years  ago.  Clothing  for  the  dead: 
masks  to  cover  the  faces  of  mummies ; 
sandals,  upon  the  soles  of  which  are 
painted  captives — some  negroes,  others 
Jews — with  their  hands  boimd ;  a  sin- 
gular mode  of  expressing  a  posthiunous 
triumph. 

Amongst  the  numerous  illustrated 
Papyri  hung  on  the  walls,  two  are 
remarkable :  the  celebrated  Book  of  the 
£ings,  first  published  and  ably  illus* 
trated  by  our  countryman.  Sir  G-ardner 
Wilkinson,  and  a  funerary  roll,  40 
ffc.  in  length,  on  which  is  represented 
the  trial  of  a  Soul  before  the  tribunal  of 
Amentia,  where  Osiris  is  seen  acting 
as  President,  and  the  divinity  Tot  as 
Secretary,  with  a  court  of  42  judges, 
before  whom  the  goddess  of  Justice 
leads  the  accused  Soul.  This  curious 
papyrus  has  been  illustrated  by  Dr. 
Lepsius  of  Berlin. 

•  In  the  small  room  leading  from  the 
2nd  Egyptian  Saloon  is  an  extensive 
series  of  steles  or  votive  tablets,  some 
of  which  are  said  to  belong  to  as  remote 
a  period  as  the  8th  dynasty,  at  least 
fiarty  centuries  B.C. 

Romns  of  Roman  Bronzes, — Here 
have  been  placed  several  Roman  bronzes, 
formerly  in  the  Numismatic  collec- 
tion, and  belonging  to  the  Academy  of 
Sciences.  In  the  first  are  worthy  of 
remark,  a  collection  of  silver  vessels 
discovered  in  Savoy  j  a  Eoman  in- 
scription on  bronze  found  at  Industria ; 
a  Minerva  with  a  handsome  brazier  on 
a  tripod  from  the  ruins  at  the  same 
place ;  a  good  statue  of  a  Faun  found  in 
the  bed  of  the  river  Stafibra,  near  Tor- 
tona ;  a  few  engraved  paterae  j  a  good 
head  of  Claudius ;  and  several  small 
Roman  bronzes  and  utensils  from  In- 
dustria. In  another  room  are  some 
large  specimens  of  ivory  carvings  by 
German  artists  of  the  18th  centy. : 
they  represent  the  Judgment  of  Solo- 
mon and  the  Sacrifice  of  Abraham,  and 
are  more  remarkable  for  their  size  than 
for  their  sculpture.    Finally,  in  the  last 

0 


26         Moute  1.— TWin — Museum  ofNaJt.  Hist.'-^Universiti/,  ^  Sect.  I. 


room  of  the  museum  is  an  indifferent 
collection  of  JEtrutcan  vases  from  the 
South  of  Italy,  and  a  series  of  earthen- 
ware of  the  Bomaa  period  from  the 
ruins  near  Pollenzo  (the  ancient  Pol- 
lentia:  see  p.  64). 

Numiematic  collection, — ^Attached  to 
the  Section  of  Antiquities  is  the  Cabinet 
of  Medals,  consisting  of  a  collection 
bequeathed  by  Cavaliere  Layj  to  the 
Academy  of  Sciences,  of  others  added 
by  the  King,  and  modem  acquisitions. 
It  is  said  to  contain  18,000  specimens,  of 
which  5000  are  OTeek,6000  Roman,  and 
7000  modem  and  of  the  middle  ages. 

The  Museum  of  Natural  History. — 
The  entrance  is  by  the  great  portal  in 
the  Via  dell'  Accademia;  it  contains 
a  very  complete  mineralogical  collec- 
tion; the  specimens  from  Savoy  and 
the  yalleys  descending  from  the  Mont 
Blanc  will  be  particularly  interesting 
to  the  foreign  mineralogist.  The  geo- 
logical and  paleontological  collections 
are  very  extensive  as  regards  the  Sar- 
dinian territory,  having  been  formed 
by  Professor  Sismonda  during  his 
labours  for  the  geological  map  of  the 
continental  portion  of  the  kingdom,  and 
by  General  Alberto  de  la  Marmora  for 
that  of  the  island  of  Sardinia.  The 
fossil  organic  remains  of  the  tertiary 
formations  of  the  Montferrat  are  per- 
haps unique  ;  amongst  which  deserves 
particular  notice  the  skeleton  of  a  Mas- 
todon found  recently  in  a  freshwater 
deposit  near  Baldichieri.  But  the  most 
remarkable  objects  of  this  part  of  the 
collection  are  an  almost  entire  skeleton 
of  the  Megatherium,  from  Buenos 
Ayres,  the  most  perfect  hitherto  dis- 
coverefd  of  this  extraordinary  gigantic 
species  of  Sloth ;  and  another  of  the 
gigantic  armadillo,  called  Glyptodon, 
from  the  same  country.  The  zoological 
department  has  been  greatly  increased 
of  late  years  under  the  care  of  Professor 
de  Filippi ;  the  series  of  birds  of  Pied- 
mont is  particularly  good. 

Universita  Heale,  Contrada  del  Po,  a 
very  extensive  and  magnificent  building. 
The  square  court  is  an  example  of  the 
effect  produced  by  columns  encircled  by 
bands,  story  above  story ;  and  is  a  spe- 


cies of  lapidary  museum.  Until  recently, 
the  greater  part  of  the  Roman  and  Qreek 
remains  now  in  the  museum  were  in  the 
university.     Here  are  still  the  Torsos 
found  at  Susa,  to  which  heads,  1^, 
and  arms  were  added  by  the  French 
sculptor,  Cartellier,  on  their  removal  to 
Paris  in  1809.   Many  of  the  inscriptions 
and  monuments  are  sepulchral.    Upon 
the  cippus  of  Quintus  Minutius  Faber, 
a  wheelwright,   he  is  represented,   at 
bottom,  working  upon  a  wheel;  and  at 
the  top,  lying  in  bed.    The  inscription 
on  an  altar  raised  to  an  abnost  hitherto 
unknown   divinity  by  a  certain  Sem- 
pronia  Futychia  does  not  speak  well 
for  the  modesty  of  the  devotee.    There 
are  abo  several  mediaeval  inscriptions : 
some  of   the  times   of  the  Lombard 
kings,  G-rimoald,  Aripert,  and  Lothair. 
The  Library/  contains   upwards   of 
120,000  volumes  of  printed  books,  and 
a  valuable  collection  of  MSS.,  many 
of  wliich  belonged   to  the  Dukes  of 
Savoy.    It  was  placed  here  by  Carlo 
Emanuele  I.  ;    and  many  coUections 
have    been    successively  added.     The 
celebrated  Calusio,  the  author  of  the 
Hebrew  Concordance,  bequeathed  his 
Oriental   manuscripts   to   it  ;    and  it 
also    contains  a   part   of  those    from 
the  Benedictine  monastery  of  Bobbio. 
These  latter  are  totj  ancient  and  au- 
thentic, and  probably  include  palimp- 
sests; but  they  do  not  seem  to  have 
been  examined.    A  very  numerous  col- 
lection of  the  Greek  writers  on  alchemy, 
mostly  inedited.     A  manuscript  of  the 
*  De  Imitatione  Christi,'  the  celebrated 
work  commonly  attributed  to  Thomas 
h,  Kempis,  but  with  more  probability 
to  G-ersen,  abbot  of  the  Benedictines  of 
Vercelli,  who  lived  a  century  before. 
This  codex  was  foxmd  in  a  Benedic- 
tine convent  at  Arena  in  1604.     Se- 
veral Bibles,  from  the    10th   to    the 
16th  centy.,  some  curiously  and  richly 
illuminated ;   a   Catena  Fatrum,  pro- 
bably of  the  9th  centy.,  with  portraits 
of  the  12  minor  prophets.  Interesting 
for  the  time  when  they  were  executed, 
showing  the  long  prevalence   of   Ro- 
man art.      A  Book  of  Offices,    with 
miniatures  of  the  Flemish  school,    of 


Piedmont. 


Bcmte  1. — Turin — Ltbrai^ — Piazzas, 


27 


great  beauty ;  four  or  five  seem  to  be 
by  Hemling.  ("  I  know  nothing  so  fine 
in  this  class  of  art — the  Kiss  of  Judas 
is  a  mairel  of  its  kind." — if.  A.  L.) 
Seyssell's  translation  of  Appian,  illumi- 
nated, and  in  which  is  his  portrait 
presenting  the  work  to  Louis  XII. 
Hebrew  MSS.,  several  inedited.  The 
University  of  Turin  is  now  very  flou- 
rishing, and  formed  witi[i  that  of  Genoa 
the  two  great  educationalestablishmenta 
of  the  Sardinian  monarchy ;  there  are 
upwards  of  60  professorships.  The 
lecture-rooms,  and  other  parts  of  the 
building  appropriated  to  the  business 
of  the  university,  offer  notliing  re- 
markable. 

Accademia  AlberHna  delle  Belle  Arti, 
in  the  Via  deUa  Posta,  No.  10.  Be- 
sides the  different  schools  con- 
nected with  the  Fine  Arts,  the 
Academy  co&tains  a  collection  of 
pictures  arranged  in  5  rooms,  the 
gift  of  Monsignore  Mosse ;  amongst 
which  may  be  noticed  a  Madonna  di 
Loreto,  attributed  to  Haphael ;  the 
same  subject,  by  Andrea  del  Sarto  ;  St. 
Alexis,  by  Qhi/rlaridajo ;  St,  John,  by 
Francia;  the  Communion  of  St.  Fran- 
cis, by  Moncalvo ;  a  Holy  Family,  by 
Caravaggio  i  the  Last  Judgment,  by 
Heemskerk;  the  Youth  of  Bacchus, 
by  Rubens  ;  an  Ecce  Homo,  by  Elisa- 
hetta  Sirani;  and  12  views  of  Venice 
by  Canaletti.  Among  the  drawings 
is  a  collection  of  24  ccurtoons  by  Gau- 
denzio  Ferrobri^  formed  by  Cardinal 
Maurice  of  Savoy;  and  a  Virgin,  by 
Leonardo  da  Vinci, 

The  Fiazza  di  San  Carlo  is  the 
finest  square  at  Turin,  The  S.  side  is 
formed  by  the  churches  of  Sta.  Chris- 
tina and  of  San  Carlo  Borromeo,  from 
the  latter  of  which  it  derives  its  name. 
It  became  necessary,  after  the  houses 
were  first  erected,  to  strengthen  the 
columns  of  the  facades  by  a  species  of 
pilaster ;  aiid  this  alteration  has  pro- 
duced a  better  effect  than  the  architect 
originally  contemplated.  In  this  piazza 
:  stands  the  equestrian  statue  of  £ma- 
j  nuele  Filiberto,  presented  to  the  city 
L  by  King  Carlo  Alberto,  and  executed 
Lby    Baron    Marochetti,    perhaps    the 


finest  of  his  works.  The  bronze 
basso-rilievos  on  the  pedestal  represent 
the  two  great  events  in  the  life  of 
Emanuele  Filiberto, — the  battle  of  St, 
Quentin,  and  the  treaty  of  C&teau 
Cambresis  (1557,  1559). 

The  Fiazza  di  Emanuele  Filiberto 
and  the  Fiazza  di  Milano,  at  the  N.  ex- 
tremity of  the  city,  form  the  largest  open 
space  in  Turin ;  here  are  held  two  of 
the  principal  markets. 

The  Fiazza  di  Savoia,  formerly  iStm- 
na  or  Faesana^  is  remarkable  for  the 
granite  obelisk  erected  in  its  centre  in 
1853,  by  pubUc  subscription,  to  com- 
memorate the  abolition  of  the  eccle- 
siastical jurisdiction  in  civil  affairs  in 
Piedmont,  the  first  cause  of  the  un- 
worthy persecution  exercised  against 
the  kingdom  of  Sardinia  and  its  rulers 
by  the  Court  of  Rome ;  on  the  sides  of 
the  obehsk  are  engraved  the  names  of 
the  members  of  the  legislature  who  took 
part  in  the  vote  of  the  Chambers  on 
this  memorable  occasion  for  the  liberties 
of  Italy. 

The  Piazza  del  Palazzo  della  Citta 
is  a  small  square  surrounded  by  porti'> 
coes  on  3  sides,  with  the  H6tel  de  Ville 
on  the  4th  ;  in  the  centre  is  a  bronze 
group  by  Pelagi,  representing  Duke 
Amadeus  VI.  of  Savoy,  better  known 
as  the  Conte  Verde;  on  each  side  of 
the  gate  are  marble  statues  of  Prince 
Eugene  of  Savoy  and  of  the  late  Duke 
of  G-enoa ;  and  under  the  portico  one 
of  King  Carlo  Alberto  by  Caceda,  and 
tablets  containing  the  names  of  the 
citizens  of  Turin  killed  in  the  cam- 
paigns of  1858  and  1859. 

The  Fiazza  Carlo  Alberto,  behind 
the  Palazzo  Carignano,  has  in  the 
centre  a  fine  equestrian  statue  of  King 
Charles  Albert,  by  Marochetti;  round 
the  base  are  4  statues  of  Piedmontese 
soldiers,  and  above  as  many  allegorical 
figures  of  Italy.  On  two  sides  are  bas- 
reliefs  of  military  exploits  of  the  king, 
and  of  his  abdication. 

The  Fiazza  VHtoiio  Emanuele,  at  the 
extremity  of  the  fine  Via  del  Po  is 
principally  remarkable  for  its  extent 
and  regularity,  and  the  fine  view  which 
it  commands  of  the  Po,  and  the  Collina 

c  2 


28 


Route  1,— Jtwrn — Theatres — Charitable  Institutions,      Sect.  I. 


covered  with  yillas  and  churches,  and 
the  Superga  towering  over  all.  At  its 
eastern  extremity  is  the  bridge  which 
connects  this  Piazza  with  the  opposite 
bank  of  the  river,  in  front  of  the 
church  of  La  gran  Madre  di  Dio.  The 
bridge  was  begun  by  the  French  in 
1810,  under  the  direction  of  the  engi- 
neer Pertinchamp,  and  completed  by 
King  Yittorio  Emanuole  II.  It  has  five 
elliptic  arches,  each  of  about  80  feet 
span,  and  of  granite.  The  bridge  on 
the  road  to  Chivasso,  a  little  beyond  the 
Piazza  Emanuele  Filiberto,  is  bolder 
and  finer.  It  crosses  the  Dora  Biparia, 
a  river  ordinarily  shallow,  but  liable  to 
heavy  floods,  and  during  these  extremely 
rapid,  and  consists  of  a  single  arch  of 
granite,  resting  on  solid  abutments  of 
the  same  material.  This  bridge  was 
constructed  under  the  direction  of  the 
Cavalierie  Mosca.  The  cost  of  the  bridge, 
with  the  approaches,  was  56,000^. 

There  is  also  a  suspension  bridge 
over  the  Po. 

Palaces. — There  are  very  many  excel- 
lent mansions  in  Turin,  but  none  which 
need  to  be  particularly  remarked  for 
outward  appearance,  except,  perhaps, 
the  unfinished  Palazzo  Cari^nano,  one 
of  the  specimens  of  the  fancy  of  Guarini, 
and  in  which  he  has  carried  his  powers 
of  invention  to  the  greatest  extreme. 
Several  of  its  rooms  contain  allegorical 
frescoes  of  Galleari  and  Leguarineo, 
painters  of  the  last  century :  this  pa- 
lace has  considerable  historical  inte- 
rest ;  it  was  the  residence  of  King 
Carlo  Alberto  before  his  accession 
to  the  throne.  It  was  here  that  the 
Constitution  was  proclaimed  in  1821, 
and  it  was  in  it  that  the  Chamber  of 
Deputies  or  Lower  House  of  the 
Italian  monarchy  held  its  sittings. 
In  the  piazza  in  front  of  the  palace 
has  been  lately  placed  a  statue  of  the 
celebrated  writer  Gioberti,  by  the  Pied- 
montese  sculptor  Albertoni,  erected 
in  1859  at  the  public  expense.  Be- 
hind the  P.  Carignano,  in  the  newly 
opened  piazza  of  Carlo  Alberto,  is 
erected  the  colossal  equestrian  statue  of 
the  late  king,  by  Marochetti;  forming 


one  of  the  sideB  of  this  square  is  the 
Instituto  Teenico^  containing  the  indus- 
trial  schools,  and  a  collection  of  objects 
connected  with  arts  and  manufactures ; 
and  on  the  other  the  new  Post-office. 

Theatres. — In  addition  to  the  Royal 
Theatre  already  noticed,  there  are  the 
Teatro  Carignano^  which  is  open  for 
operas  and  ballets  during  the  autumn, 
and  for  the  regular  drama  in  the  spring 
and  summer ;  it  was  built  by  the  Count 
Alfieri ;  and  here  the  earliest  tragedy  of 
Vittorio  Alfieri  was  first  represented. 
The  Teatro  d^Angennes^  remarkable  for 
the  good  arrangement  of  the  scenes  and 
stage,  is  an  elegant   but  not  a  large 
theatre.     It  is  open  for  the  regular 
drama  during  the  Carnival,  and  for  the 
opera  bufia  in    spring    and  summer. 
French  plays  are  generally  represented 
here  during  several  months  in  the  year. 
The  Teatro  Sutera  in  the  Contrada  del 
Po  is  open  for  the  opera  buffa  during 
the  Carnival,  and  for  comedy  at  other 
times.    There  are  also  two  theatres  of 
fantoccini.   The  Piedmontese  claim  the 
honour  of  being  the  inventors  of  puppet- 
shows,  which  are  carried  to  high  perfec- 
tion in  the  performances  of  these  wooden 
companies.    TTio  buffoon  characters  Ghi- 
rolamo  and  Gianduja  are  of  Piedmontese 
origin,   as  Arlequino  is  Bergamasque. 
There  are  several  other  theatres :  the 
T.   Nazionale,   built  in  1848,  in    the 
Via  La  Marmora ;  and  two  for  diurnal 
representations,  the  Circo  Salles   and 
the  T.  Gerbino  in  the  Via  dei  Tintori. 

The  charitable  institutions  of  Turin 
are  numerous  and  opulent.  As  a  detail 
of  them  would  be  foreign  to  the  object 
of  this  work,  we  shall  only  notice  a 
few  of  the  most  remarkable. 

The  Ritiro  delle  Rosine  was  founded 
by  Bosa  Grovona,  a  poor  girl  of  Mon- 
dovi,  who,  in  1740,  collected  a  number 
of  other  girls  of  her  own  class  for  the 
purpose  of  Uving  as  a  semi-religious 
community,  maintaining  themselves  by 
their  own  labomr.  In  1745  she  re- 
moved her  institution  to  Turin,  and 
settled  here,  under  the  patronage  of 
Carlo    Emanuele   III.     She  died   in 


PiEDMOKT.         Moute  1. — Turin — Charitable  Institutiojxs. 


29 


1776,  and  is  buried  in  tlie  simple  ora- 
tory, or  chapel,  of  tlie  Ritiro ;  on  her 
tomb  being  inscribed  "  Le  figlie  grate 
alia  Senedetta  Madre  hanno  posto 
quest o  monumentoy  The  inmates  of  the 
Eitiro  may  quit  if  they  think  fit,  but  few 
avail  themselves  of  this  privilege.  This 
interesting  establishment,  which  now 
contains  350  inmates,  was  under  the 
special  patronage  of  the  late  lamented 
Queen,  who  deputed  one  of  the  ladies  of 
her  court  to  look  after  it :  the  income, 
which  arises  entirely  from  the  work  of  the 
inmates,  amounts  to  80,000  francs,  with 
which  they  are  most  comfortably  main- 
tained. Over  the  principal  entrance  is 
engraved  the  very  appropriate  inscrip- 
tion— "  jTw  vivrai  del  lavoro  delle  tue 
mani."  There  are  several  houses  of  the 
Hosine  in  other  parts  of  the  Sardinian 
states. 

The  Eeale  Alhergo  di  Vlrt^  is  what 
we  should  term  an  industrial  school. 
It  was  founded,  in  1580,  by  Carlo 
Emanuele  I. 

The  Regio  Manicomio,  a  lunatic 
asylum,  arose  out  of  the  voluntary  con- 
tributions of  the  fratei-nity  of  the  Santo 
Sudario,  about  the  year  1728 ;  and  the 
Prior  of  the  fraternity,  with  the  appro- 
bation of  the  Crown,  names  the  direct- 
ors. The  number  of  inmates  is  about 
600,  who  are  received  from  the  differ- 
ent provinces,  their  maintenance  being 
defrayed  by  the  several  localities  in  the 
proportion  of  four-fifths,  the  rest  paid 
by  the  government.  Its  management 
is  very  mild  and  judicious :  the  patients, 
as  far  as  possible,  dine  at  a  common 
table,  and  many  of  the  improvements  in 
the  treatment  of  these  unfortunate  ob- 
jects recently  adopted  in  England  and 
France  have  been  long  practised  here. 

The  Casa  della  Divina  Providencia 
is  a  very  interesting  establishment  of 
modem  foundation  (1828),  which  owes 
its  origin  to  a  benevolent  ecclesiastic, 
the  Canon  Cottolengo;  it  receives  the 
infirm  poor  without  distinction  of 
country,  religion,  or  malady,  and  is  en- 
tirely supported  by  voluntary  contri- 


butions.    The  number  of  admissions 
annually  is  nearly  1500. 

The  Ch'ande  Ospedale  di  S.  Oio' 
vanniy  founded  in  the  14th  century, 
may  be  called  the  Great  Hospital  of 
Turin.  It  is  managed  by  a  congre- 
gation composed  of  sii  canons  of  the 
cathedral  and  six  decurions  of  the 
city :  about  6000  patients  are  an- 
nually received  in  it.  The  revenues 
before  the  French  invasion  were  very 
large ;  and  now,  partly  from  estates,  and 
also  from  voluntary  contributions,  they 
amount  to  about  300,000  francs  per 
annum  :  the  contributions  being  nearly 
one  half.  In  the  centre  of  the  wards  is 
an  altar,  so  placed  that  it  can  be  seen 
from  every  bed.  The  clinical  school 
and  the  anatomical  theatre  attached  to 
the  imiversity  are  in  this  hospital,  now 
one  of  the  most  flourishing  medical 
schools  of  Italy :  forming  a  part  of  the 
estabUshment  are  wards  tor  nearly  100 
incurable  cases,  and  apartments  for 
persons  who  are  admitted  on  paying  a 
trifling  retribution. 

The  Hospital  of  San  Luigi  Gonzaga^ 
founded  in  1797,  and  wholly  supported 
by  voluntary  contributions,  is  also  a 
dispensary.  The  out-patients  are  main- 
tained at  their  homes  for  a  fort- 
night after  they  are  discharged  as 
cured,  in  order  that  they  may  fully 
recover  their  strength,  and  have  an 
opportunity  of  obtaining  employment. 
•Kie  in-patients  (about  80)  are  those 
who  are  refused  admittance  into  the 
other  hospitals,  from  their  maladies 
being  incurable.  Upwards  of  12,000 
out-patients  are  annually  relieved,  and 
fed  if  they  require  it.  This  noble  in- 
stitution owes  its  origin  to  the  late 
Padre  Barucchi,  a  parish  priest  of 
Turin,  who  began  by  establishing  a  fra- 
ternity for  the  purpose  of  assisting  the 
poor  at  their  own  houses  ;  and,  in  the 
course  of  twenty  years,  collected  a  suffi- 
cient sum  to  erect  the  present  edifice. 

La  Matemitay  at  the  same  time  a 
lying-in  and  foundling  hospital,  well 
managed  under  the  direction  of  the 


30 


Houte  1. — iSirin — LaSuperga* 


Sect.  I. 


Sisters  of  Charity;  it  generally  con- 
tains al)out  80  women  and  40  clnldren; 
about  2000  foundlings  are  deposited 
here  annually,  who,  after  being  kept 
a  short  time  in  a  ward  for  the  purpose, 
are  sent  out  to  nurse  in  the  country. 

TheMifligio  di  Madama  SarolOy  a 
kind  of  Magdalen  hospital,  founded  by 
a  benevolent  lady,  the  Baroness  Barolo, 
and  supported  by  her  and  contributing 
friends;  it  admits  all  imfortunate  fe- 
males, either  in  sickness  or  who  wish 
to  abandon  their  eyil  course  of  life, 
who  are  maintained,  and  after  several 
years  of  probation  allowed  to  take  the 
veil.  They  are  employed  in.  taking 
care  of  the  sick  inmates,  and  in  other 
works  for  the  benefit  of  the  establish- 
ment. We  would  recommend  any  of 
our  countrywomen  interested  in  chari- 
table institutions  to  visit  this  Kifugio, 
still  managed  by  the  benevolent  kdy 
by  whom  it  was  founded. 

Cemeteet. — ^About  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  beyond  the  Dora,  on  the  road  to 
the  Parco  Regio.  This  general  biiry- 
ing-place  of  the  city  is  very  extensive, 
consisting  of  a  large  octagonal  space, 
surrounded  by  a  high  wall,  and  an  inner 
portion,  by  elegant  arcades,  containing 
numerous  sepulchral  monuments,  with 
a  rOw  of  vaults  beneath.  'This  inner 
burjing-ground  is  the  most  aristocratic, 
judging  from  the  elegance  of  the  tombs 
and  the  good  taste  of  their  sculpture. 
Among  the  monuments  which  have  an 
historical  and  artistic  interest  are  those 
of  General  Bava,  the  hero  of  G-oito ;  of 
Greneral  Provana  di  CoUegno,  the  emi- 
nent geologist,  with  a  touching  inscrip- 
tion by  his  widow,  and  a  good  figure 
of  the  lady  weeping  over  his  sword; 
of  Drovetti,  the  celebrated  collector  of 
Egyptian  antiquities,  to  whom  Turin 
owes  its  Egyptian  Museum.  In  the 
outer  ground  is  interred  Silvio  Pellico, 
with  a  tasteless  pyramid  of  white 
marble  over  his  gi'ave.  The  Protestant 
cemetery  is  at  the  extremity  of  the 
general  burying-ground. 


BNTIEONS  OP  TUEDT. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Turin  is  the  Super- 
ffaj  with  which  the  traveller  becomes 
acquainted  before  he  enters  the  city. 
The  easiest  mode  of  reaching  it  will  be, 
for  the  pedestrian,  from  the  Madonna 
del  Pilone^  to  which    omnibuses  run 
every  half-hour  from  Turin ;  and  from 
which  a  very  agreeable  walk,  although 
constantly  ascending,  leads  to  the  ch. ; 
families  and  ladies  must  pi*oceed  in  car- 
riages, for  the  hire  of  which,  as  four 
horses  are  necessary,  the  hotel-keepers 
charge  25  and  30  francs.     The  Basilica 
of  La  Superga  was  erected  by  Yittorio 
Amadeo  in  the  accomplishment  of  a  vow 
made  previously  to  the  battle  of  Tiuin. 
On  the  2nd  Sept.  1706,  he  advanced 
with  Prince  Eugene  from  Chieri ;  and 
taking  their  station  upon  the  summit 
of  the  Collina,  they  looked  down  upon 
his  capital,  blockaded  by  the  army  of 
Louis  XIV.    Vittorio  vowed  to  erect 
a  church  here  in  honour  of  the  Virgin, 
if  it  should  please  the  Lord  of  Hosts  to 
grant  him  and  his  people  deliverance 
from  the  hands  of  the  enemy.     (These 
are  the  words  of  the  vow.)     The  result 
of  the  battle  of  Turin  has  been  before 
noticed.     The  name  of  Superga  is  said 
to  be  derived  from  its  situation,  super 
terga  montium. 

The  Basilica  was  begun  by  Juvara 
in  1717,  and  completed  in  1731.  The 
interior  is  circular  :  8  pilasters,  and  an 
equal  number  of  columns,  support  the 
cupola ;  between  the  pilasters  are 
chapels  of  an  elliptical  form.  Through 
the  interpilaster,  opposite  the  principal 
entrance,  is  the  access  to  a  large  octan- 
gular chapel,  at  the  extremity  of  which 
is  the  high  altar.  The  flight  of  steps 
on  the  outside  is  continued  all  round 
the  building.  The  cupola,  which  is  of 
good  proportions,  is  flanked  by  two 
elegant  quadrangular  bell-towers.  The 
front  of  the  ch.  is  formed  by  a  fine 
portico  of  8  Corintliian  columns  in 
front.  The  high  altar  is  decorated 
with  a  profusion  of  statues  and  bas- 
reliefs,  one  representing  the  siege  of 
Turin — ^Vittorio  Amadeo,  Prince  Eu- 
gene, and  the  Duke  of  Anhalt  pursuing 


Piedmont. 


Eoute  1 . — Ikirin — Environs, 


31 


the  enemy.  The  subterranean  oh.  is 
in  the  form  of  a  Latin  cross,  and  con- 
tains the  remains  of  most  of  the  mem- 
bers of  the  royal  house,  King  Carlo 
FeUce  alone  haying  been  interred  at 
Haute  Combe  in  Saroy.  The  monu- 
ments most  worthy  of  being  noticed  are 
those  of  Vittorio  Amadeo  II.,  decorated 
with  allegorical  figures  in  the  taste  of 
the  last  centuiy.  and  of  Carlo  Emanuele 
III.,  having  on  it  a  bas-relief  of  the 
battle  of  Guastalla  by  Collini.  In  the 
centre  of  the  cross  stands  the  tempo- 
rary monument  of  the  late  king,  whose 
body  was  deposited  here  in  1850,  when 
brought  from  Oporto,  in  the  place 
always  occupied  by  the  last-deceased 
sovereign.  The  halls  and  staircases 
are  grand  from  their  proportions  and 
rich  marbles,  and  the  solid  decora- 
tions of  the  architect.  A  series  of  por- 
traits of  the  popes,  the  majority  of 
course  imaginary,  is  placed  in  the  apart- 
ments appropriated  to  the  sovereign, 
who  visited  the  Superga  annually,  upon 
the  8th  September,  the  feast  of  the 
Nativity  of  the  Virgin.  A  congregation 
of  secular  priests,  endowed  by  the 
state,  has  been  estabhshed  at  the 
Superga,  its  members  being  chosen 
among  the  most  meritorious  of  the 
parochial  clergy,  and  those  who  have 
rendered  the  greatest  services  to  the 
church  and  state,  l^o  traveller  who 
Tisits  the  Superga  should  omit  to  ascend 
to  the  top  of  the  building,  from  which 
opens  perhaps  the  most  magnificent 
panorama  of  the  Alps,  extendmg  from 
Mont  Viso  at  the  extremity  of  the  Cot- 
tian  portion  of  the  chain  to  the  Simplon, 
including  the  whole  of  the  Grpek  and 
Pennine  Alps,  with  the  beautiful  hills 
of  Montferrat  below,  the  plains  ol  Lom- 
bardy,  of  the  Po,  and  the  first  portion 
of  the  Apennines  beyond.  The  top  of 
the  cupola  is  2405  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea. 

JLa  Vigna  delta  Uegina.  This  palace 
overlooks  Turin,  being  on  the  side  of 
tlie  Collina,  immediately  above  the  Po. 
It  was  built  by  Cardmal  Maurice  of 
Savoy,  when  he  had  ceased  to  be  a 
cardmal  for  the  purpose  of  marrying  his. 
niece  Ludovica,  the  daughter  of  Vittorio 


Amadeo  I.    The  views  of  the  city  from 
here  are  very  beautifuL 

II  Valentino,  at  the  S.E.  extremity 
of  Turin,  built  by  Christine  of  France, 
the  wife  of  Vittorio  Amadeo  I.,  and 
daughter  of  Henri  IV,  and  Marie  de 
Medicis.  As  far  as  the  design  of  the 
original  building  has  been  executed,  it  is 
a  regular  French  chstteau ;  the  decora- 
tions of  the  apartments  are  in  the 
heavy  and  extreme  bad  taste  of  the 
17th  centy.  The  gardens  are  very  agree- 
able ;  one  part  of  them  is  set  apart  as 
the  Botanic  Garden  of  the  university. 
The  grounds  are  pleasantly  situated  on. 
the  banks  of  the  Po,  to  which  you 
descend  from  the  palace  by  a  subter- 
ranean staircase.  The  palace  is  now 
uninhabited  ;  the  state  apartments  are 
used  periodically  for  the  exhibition  of 
arts  and  manufactures. 

Stitpinigiy  about  4  m.  from  Turin. 
A  fine  avenue  leads  from  the  city  to  this 
xmfinished  hunting  lodge  or  palace,  of 
which  the  object  is  announced  by  the 
bronze  stag  which  crowns  the  roof.  It 
was  erected  in  1776  by  Carlo  Ema- 
nuele III.  from  the  designs  of  Juvara. 
The  elevation  is  finely  varied  by  the 
masses,  semi-castellated  in  form,  of 
which  it  is  composed.  Napoleon  lodged 
here  in  his  way  to  Milan,  when  about  ^ 
to  receive  the  iron  crown,  and  again 
in  1811.  -It  contains  some  tolerable 
paintings:  a  good  one,  represent- 
ing Diana  bathing,  by  Vanloo,  who 
also  painted  the  roof  of  the  great  hall. 
The  views  of  Monte  Viso,  from  the 
extensive  and  stiff  gardens  round  the 
castle,  are  very  fine. 

Castello  di  Aglie,  reached  by  road 
from  the  Rly.  Stat,  at  Caluso  j  the  fa- 
vourite country  residence  of  King  Carlo 
Fehce,  remarkable  for  the  extreme  pu- 
rity of  the  air.  It  contains  a  small 
collection  of  Roman  antiquities,  chiefly 
from  the  excavations  made  at  Veil 
and  Tusculum  by  Maria  Christina, 
the  widow  of  Victor  Emanuel  I. 

TxTEiN  to  Cormayeur  and  the  Val 
d*Aosta;  to  Romagnano  and  Biella. 
{Sioiss  SandhooJc,    Bte,  134.) 


32 


Bottte  2. — Turin  to  Milan,  h/  Nomra. 


Sect.  I. 


ROUTE  2. 

TTJEIN  TO  MILAN,  BY  TEROEILI, 
NOVABA,  AND  MAGENTA — BAIL. 

90  miles. 


KIL. 

KTL. 

From  Turin  to 

Veroelll  . 

.     .     13 

Settirao  . 

.     .     12 

Borgo  Vercelll.    18 

Brandl7.7X) 

.     .     19 

Ponzaoa . 

,    .     85 

Ghivagso 

.     .    23 

Novara   . 

.    .     95 

Torrazza . 

.     .    SO 

Trecate  . 

.     .  104 

Salttggta. 

.    .    35 

Ticino    .    . 

.  109 

Livoriio  . 

.     .    42 

Magenta . 

,    .  116 

Bianze    . 

,    .    49 

Vittnone 

.     .  123 

Tronzano 

,    .    61 

Rho    .    . 

.     .  131 

,    Santhia  .    . 

.    54 

MOBOCCO .     . 

.  138 

S.  Genxumo 

.    60 

Milan     .    . 

.  146 

This  is  the  shortest  and  most  inte- 
resting route  between  Turin  and  Milan: 
it  will  enable  the  traveller  to  visit  Ver- 
celli  and  Novara,  passing  through  a 
lovely  country  at  the  foot  of  the  Alps. 
Trains  leave  5  times  a-day  for  Milan, 
employing  from  3^  to  5^  hrs. ;  travel- 
lers who  wish  to  visit  Vercelli  will  be 
able  to  sleep  at  Novara,  where  there 
are  good  Inns. 

The  rly.  runs  parallel  to  the  1.  bank 
of  the  Po,  after  crossing  the  Dora 
Biparia,  as  far  as  Chivasso,  passing  by 

12  kU.  SetHmo  Stat,  a  village  on 
rt.,  bearing  in  its  name  the  reminis- 
cence of  its  Boman  origin,  ad  septi- 
mam, 

8  kil.  JBrandizzo  Stat.^  the  village 
on  the  rt.,  of  great  antiquity.  It  is 
noticed  in  the  ancient  itineraries  as 
one  of  the  stations  where  the  pUgrims 
to  Jerusalem  were  accustomed  to 
change  horses.   On  leaving  Brandizzo, 

Cross  the  Malone  and  Oreo  torrents, 
which,  like  the  other  streams  already 
passed,  flow  into  the  Po,  and,  like 
that  river,  frequently  inundate  the 
adjoining  lands. 

X^Cavour  Canal.  —  This  important 
work,  which  has  just  been  completed, 
and  in  great  part  by  means  of  British 
capital,  receives  the  Avater  of  the  Po  at 
a  short  distance  from  Chivasso,  between 
wliere  the  Oreo  and  Dora  enter  that 
great  artery  of  N.  Italy — the  object  of 
the  canal  being  purely  for  irrigating 
purposes ;  6  m.  after  leaving  the  Po  it 
crosses  the  Dora  by  an  aqueduct  2500 


yardfl  long,and  passes  successively  under 
the  other  rivers  descending  from  the 
Alps — the  Elvo,  Corvo,  Sesia,  Agogna, 
and  Terdoppio,  by  syphon  tunnels — 
before  emptying  itself  into  the  Ticino, 
between  Gallia  te  and  Cuggiono  :  nearly 
54  m.  in  length,  it  carries  about  4000 
cubic  ft.  of  water  in  a  second,  and  which, 
being  distributed  over  300,000  acres  of 
comparatively  unproductive  land,  it  is 
calculated  will  .raise  its  value  from 
6,000,000/.  sterling  to  15,000,000/., 
increasing  its  rental  from  300,000/.  to 
750,000/.  sterling.  The  total  cost  of  the 
construction  of  this  magnificent  work, 
commenced  in  1863,  and  now  on  the 
eve  of  being  opened,  has  been  estimated 
at  4,000,000/.  sterling.] 

3  kil.  Chivasso  Junction  Stat.,  a  small 
city  on  the  1.  bank  of  the  Po,  at  one  time 
of  some  military  importance.  Pop. 
7841.  It  was  long  considered  as  the 
key  of  Piedmont,  and  in  1798  it  op- 
posed a  considerable  resistance  to  Mar- 
shal Joubert  when  executing  the  decree 
of  the  Directory,  by  which  he  was 
ordered  to  dethrone  the  House  of 
Savoy.  The  fortifications  were  de- 
stroyed by  the  French  in  1804,  when 
their  possession  of  Lombardy  placed 
Chivasso  in  the  midst  of  their  ter- 
ritory. Chivasso  was  the  ordinary 
court  residence  of  the  Marquises  of 
Montferrat,  who,  as  sovereigns,  held 
so  conspicuous  a  place  in  the  me- 
dieeval  history  of  Italy,  though  Ca- 
sale  was  their  capital.  The  Marquis 
Giovanni,  sumamed  the  Just,  who  was 
much  loved  by  his  people,  died  here  in 
1305.  He  had  been  attended  during 
his  malady  by  Manuel  di  Yercelli,  a 
physician  of  great  reputation.  Manuel 
followed  as  one  of  the  mourners. 
There  is  an  old  jest  in  Joe  Miller  of  an 
M.D.  in  a  similar  situation  being  told 
that  he  was  "  carrying  his  work  home." 
The  people  of  Chivasso  believed  it.  Sus- 
picions had  been  spread  that  the  good 
marquis  had,  died  in  consequence  of  the 
want  of  skUl,  or  that  somehow  or  an- 
other the  doctor  had  despatched  his 
employer ;  they  rushed  upon  him  and 
literally  tore  liim  in  pieces.  The  Mar- 
quis Giovanni  had  uo  children  j  and  his 


flEDMONT. 


Moute  2. — Cigtiano —  VerceUu 


38 


dominions  devolved  to  his  sister  Vio- 
lante  (Irene  the  G^reeks  called  her),  the 
Empress  of  the  East,  wife  of  Andronicus 
Comnenus  Fal£eologus.  Their  second 
son,  Teodoro,  was  selected  to  exercise 
his  mother's  rights,  and  in  his  person 
began  the  dynasty  of  the  Montferrat- 
Falaeologi,  which  became  extinct  in 
1553.  The  town  consists  of  two  ad- 
joining groups  of  streets  and  buildings, 
and  which  once,  probably,  formed  two 
distinct  jurisdictions.  The  church  of 
San  Pietro  dates  as  early  as  1425.  The 
front  is  decorated  with  ornaments  and 
statues  in  terracotta,  of  great  elegance, 
but  much  defaced.  The  remains  of  the 
ancient  palace,  or  castle,  of  the  Counts 
of  Montferrat,  consist  of  a  high  tower, 
upon  the  summit  of  which  grow  two 
mulberry- trees,  Chiavasso  is  cele- 
brated for  its  lampreys. 

A  regular  service  of  carriages  starts 
firom  the  Chivasso  stat.,  in  correspond- 
ence with  2  of  the  rly.  trains,  for 
Casalborgone,  Monteu,  Murisengo,  and 
Montiglio,  on  the  hills  S.  of  the  Po. 

[The  JRly.  to  Ivrea  branches  off  here, 
ascending  the  Valley  of  the  Dora  for 
33  kil.  in  an  hour,  the  stations  being — 
6  kil.  Montanaro,  5  kil.  Bodallo,  3  kil. 
Caluso  (branch  from  here  to  Castella- 
monte  by  San  Gl-iorgio  and  Aglie),  4  kil. 
Candia,  2  kil.  Mercenasco,  and  4  kil. 
Strambino.    9  kil.  to  Ivrea.] 

7  kil.  Torazza  Stat.  Soon  after  leav- 
ing, the  Dora  Baltea,  descending  from 
Ivrea,  is  crossed. 

6  kil.  Saluggia  Stat.  The  town  is 
upon  a  rising  ground  in  the  midst 
of  canals  derived  from  the  Dora  Baltea. 

7  kU.  Livorno  Stat.,  a  good- sized 
village,  not  far  from  which,  on  the  1.,  is 

Ciffliano,  This  town,  now  dis- 
mantled, was  once  surrounded  with 
walls  and  towers.  The  old  church  is 
rather  an  interesting  object.  Monte 
Rosa  begins  to  appear  from  hereabouts 
in  great  magnificence ;  and  up  the  wide 
gorge  or  valley  into  the  Alps  on  the  1. 
is  seen  the  snow-capped  pyramid  of 
Monte  Cervin. 

4»  kili  Bianze  Stat, 

5  kil.  Tronzano  Stat. 

3    kil.    Santhia   Junction    Stat.,   a 


town  on  the  high  road  from  Ivrea  to 
Yeroelli.  [The  Ely.  to  JBiella  (18J  m.  or 
30  kil.)  branches  off  here :  trains  go 
in  60  min. :  the  stations  are— 11  kil. 
Saluzzolay  6  kil.  VergnascOy  3  kil, 
Sandigliano,  4  kil.  Candetos,  6  kil. 
Biella,  Carriages  start  from  Biella  for 
YaraUo,  passing  by  Masserano,  Gatti- 
nara,  Romagnano,  and  Borgo  Sesia,  in 
correspondence  with  the  morning  train 
from  Turin,  employing  6 J  krs.  Places 
can  be  secured  either  at  the  Central 
Rly.  Station  in  Turin,  or  at  Santhia. 
Henceforward  our  rly.  follows  the  di- 
rection of  the  old  post-road,  crossing 
the  Cavour  Canal  a  short  way  before 
reaching 

6  kil.  San  Qermano  Stat.,  once  for- 
tified, but  now  dismantled.  In  tliis 
neighbourhood  the  women  wear  a  pecu- 
liar ornament  in  the  hair,  which  we 
shall  meet,  with  more  or  less  variation, 
throughout  Lombardy.  It  consists  of 
rows  of  large  pins  (spiloni)  radiating 
round  the  back  of  the  head.  Here  these 
pins  terminate  in  balls,  either  gilt  or  of 
polished  brass.  The  dialect  of  the 
people  is  Milanese ;  and  the  style  of  all 
the  ancient  buildings  shows  that  the 
traveller  has  entered,  at  least,  historical 
Lombardy.  Monte  Rosa  is  seen  in  all 
its  grandeur,  all  the  way  from  S.  Q-er- 
mano  to  Yercelli. 

13  kil.  Vercelli  Junction  Stat.  {Inns : 
Tre  Re,  and  Leone  d'Oro,  the  best  j  La 
Posta;  but  aU  indifferent  and  dirty. 
The  less  the  traveller  has  to  do  with  inns 
here  the  better ;  he  will  be  able  to  see 
everything  at  Yercelli  in  the  interval 
between  the  departiu'c  of  two  successive 
rlwy.-trains,  and  get  on  to  Turin  or 
Novara,  where  he  will  find  more  com- 
fortable quarters.)  A  city  near  the 
1.  bank  of  the  Sesia,  the  seat  of  a 
bishopric,  of  much  importance  in  the 
middle  ages,  and  still  containing  a 
population  of  18,000  Inhab.,  and  with 
great  appearance  of  prosperity.  It  co- 
vers a  wide  extent  of  ground,  and  is  sur- 
rounded by  boulevards,  of  which  those 
on  the  N.W.  command  the  finest  view 
of  the  Alps.  At  this  extremity  of  the 
city  arc  the  Duomo .  or  Cathedral,  the 
church  of  San  Andrea,  and  the  Rly. 

0  3 


84 


Houte  2.— Vercetti-^ Cathedral. 


Sect.  I. 


Btat.  The  Duomo  was  built  by  Pel* 
legrino  Tibaldi,  towards  the  middle 
of  the  16th  century,  and  in  a  good 
style  of  Italian  architecture^  although 
heavy  ;  the  tall  cupola  is  more  modem. 
During  the  French  occupation  this 
building  Yf&a  exposed  to  ruin.  They 
turned  it  into  a  stable,  burned  aU  the 
wood-work  of  the  choir,  and  defaced 
the  tomb  of  St.  Amadeus  of  Savoy.  AU 
this  damage  ha«  been  repaired.  The 
tomb  of  St.  Amadeus  was  decorated 
with  silver,  at  the  expense  of  King 
Carlo  Fehce,  in  1823,  from  the  de- 
signs of  Savesi,  an  artist  of  Turin. 
The  wood-work  of  the  choir  was  re- 
stored in  1822,  from  a  design  of 
Banza,  an  architect  of  Yercelli ;  it  is 
so  contrived  that  it  holds  together 
without  nails,  and  can  be  taken  down 
in  a  very  short  time.  The  portico, 
by  Count  Alfieri,  is  handsome,  sur- 
mounted by  colossal  statues  of  the 
Saviour,  the  Apostles,  and  EvangeHsts. 
In  this  church  are  the  remains  of  St. 
Eusebius,  the  first  bishop  of  the  see,  and 
St.  Amadeus ;  the  sepulchral  chapels  in 
the  2  transepts,  in  which  they  are  de- 
posited, are  sumptuously  ornamented. 
The  view  of  Monte  Eosa  from  the  front 
of  the  Duomo  is  magnificent. 

The  library  of  the  cathedral  escaped 
spoliation,  and  contains  a  collection 
of  manuscripts  of  great  antiquity 
and  value.  The  most  remarkable  is  a 
copy  of  the  Q-ospels  vnritten  by  St.  Eu- 
sebius,  the  founder  of  the  see  in  the 
fourth  century,  and  which,  being  much 
decayed,  even  in  the  reign  of  Berenga- 
rius  King  of  Italy  (see  Monza)^  was, 
by  order  of  that  monarch,  bound  in 
sHver ;  and  it  yet  remains  in  tliis  cover, 
with  the  inscription,  testifying  the  name 
of  the  donor,  in  the  following  verses  : — 

"Ftesul  hoc  Eusebius  scripsit,  solvitque  ve- 
tustas ; 
Hex  Berengarius  sed  reparavit  idem." 

The  silver  cover  is  ornamented  with 
rude  chasmgs :  it  represents  our  Lord 
seated  upon  a  species  of  throne  com- 
posed of  two  zones  ornamented  with 
gems,  and  which  have  been  explained 
as  representing  the  earth  and  the 
heavens.    Upon  his  knees  is  an  open 


book,  the  Gospel,  presented  to  mankind. 
Olive-branches  surround  the  tablet,  as 
the  emblems  of  peace.     On  the  other 
side  is  St.  Eusebius  in  his  robes,  but 
merely  designated  as  "  Eusebius  Epis- 
copus;"    the  absence. of  the  epithet 
Sanctua  being  conformable  to  the  usages 
of  high  antiquity.     This  manuscript  is 
considered  as  of  the  greatest  importance 
in  biblioalcriticism.  It  is  a  Latia  version, 
and  supposed  to  be  the  most  authentic 
copy  of  that  called  "  Itala  "  by  St.  Augus- 
tine, and  employed  in  the  earliest  ages'of 
the  Western  Church,untilits  use  was  su- 
perseded by  the  Vulgate;  and  this  being 
older  than  any  Greek  manuscript  now 
extant,  it  is  in  one  sense  the  most  an- 
cient copy  of  the  Gospels  existing.  The 
Gospels  are  arranged  in  the  foUowing 
order : — St.  Matthew,  St.  John,  St.  Luke 
(here  called  "  Lucanus"),  and  St.  Mark. 
It  is  written  in  capitals,  in  two  columns; 
the  writing  is  much  faded,  and  the  eva- 
nescent character  can  scarcely  be  traced 
except  by  the  indentation  of  the  pen  in 
the  mouldering  vellum.    St.  Eusebius 
always  carried  this  volume  about  with 
him ;  it  is  one  of  the  earliest  authentic 
autographs  in  existence.     Besides  the 
injuries  which  the  manuscript  has  sus- 
tained from  time,  it  has  been  strangely 
mutilated  to  gratify  the  devotion  of 
the    people    of    Lausanne,    who    in 
the  15th  century  erected  a  church  in 
honour  of  St.  Eusebius,  and  in  whose 
favour    Bonifazio    Ferreri,    the    then 
Bishop  of  Vercelli,  detached  a  leaf, 
which  he  sent  to  them  as  a  relic  of 
the  holy    prelate    whom    they   thus 
revered.     Lalande  stated  this  manu- 
script   to   be   an    autograph    of    St. 
Luke,  though  it  is  a  Latin  version! 
Amongst  the  other  manuscripts  are 
Anfflo- Saxon  poems,  including  one  in 
honour  of  St.  Andrew,  and  very  pos- 
sibly brought  from  England  by  Cardi- 
nal Guala,  of  whom  we  shall  shortly 
have  occasion  to  speak;  the  Recogni' 
tions  of  St.  Clemtnty  a  very  early  manu- 
script, but  whether  the  work  be  really 
the  production  of  this  apostolic  father 
is  a  question  upon  which  theological 
critics  are  much  divided ;  the  Laws  of 
I  the  Lombard  Kings,  written  in  the  reign 


Piedmont.     Boute  2. —  VerceUi—San  Andrea — Cardinal  Guala.       35 


of  King  Liuf;prand,  and  therefore  not 
later  than  the  year  744. 

The  church  of  Sanf  Andrea,  at  a 
short  distance  from  the  "Rlj.  stat.,  was 
erected  by  Cardinal  Guala  de'  Bicchi- 
en,  who  filled  the  oihce  of  papal  legate 
in  England  in  the  reigns  of  John 
and  Henry  III.,  and  whose  name  is 
connected  with  some  very  important 
transactions  during  that  turbulent 
period  of  our  history.  He  was  bom 
and  educated  at  Yercelli,  and  was  a 
canon  of  its  cathedral.  Oyer  the 
lateral  door  on  1.  he  is  represented  in 
the  act  of  dedicating  the  church,  with 
St.  Andrew  on  the  other  side ;  and  his 
merits  are  recorded  in  11  rhyming 
Leonines,  in  the  first  of  which,  by  a 
poetical  figure,  called  Epenthesis,  fami- 
liar to  the  students  of  the  Westminster 
and  Eton  Latin  grammars,  one  word  is 
inserted  in  the  centre  of  another,  that 

is  to  say,  the  word  Car dinalis  is 

split  into  two,  and  the  word  Q-uala  in- 
serted in  the  gap  between,  for  the  sake 
of  the  metre : — 

**  Lux  cleri  pRtriseqae  decus  GaroUALAdinalis 
Quern  labor  atque  artes,  quern  Sanctio  ca- 
nonical is. 
Quern  lex  dotavit,  quern  pagina  spiritualis." 

The  Cardinal  left  all  his  property  to 
the  Church,  and  amongst  the  relics 
which  he  deposited  there  was  the  obla- 
tionarium  of  Thomas  &  Becket.     Car- 
dinal Guala  was  a  most  strenuous  ally 
of  King  John ;   he  excommunicated 
Stephen  Langton  and  Prince  Lewis, 
when  the  latter  was  called  in  by  the 
barons  at  Bunnymede  (1215)  ;   and  on 
the  accession  of  Henry   III.  he  was 
one  of  the  ministry  by  whose  exertions 
the  royal  authority  was  in  a  great 
measurd  supported  aud  restored.    The 
gratitude  of  the  new  monarch  bestowed 
upon    Guala   much    preferment,    the 
nch  benefice  of  Chesterton  near  Cam- 
bridge among  the  rest.  He  made  heavy 
demands  upon   the   clergy  generally, 
besides  sequestrating  (to  lus  own  use) 
the  benefices  and  preferments  of  those 
who   were  opposed  to  him;  he  thus 
amassed  the  fortune,  amounting,  it  is 
said,   to  12,000  marks  of  silver,  with 
which  this  ch.  was  raised  and  endowed. 


On  bis  return  to  Italy  through 
France,  in  1218,  he  engaged  in  his  ser- 
vice an  ecclesiastic,  a  native  of  Paris, 
skilled  in  architecture,  and  in  1219 
began  his  new  church,  which  he  dedi- 
cated to  St.  Andrew.  The  career  of 
the  foimder  accounts  for  the  style  of 
St.  Andrea.  Having  passed  many  years 
in  France  and  England,  Cardinal  Guala 
imbibed  a  taste  for  the  style  of  archi- 
tecture which  had  recently  come  into 
fashion  in  those  countries.  St.  Andrea 
is  far  firom  pure.  It  is  curious  from 
the  mixtures  it  ofiers  of  the  Lom- 
bard and  Pointed  styles,  greatly  mfe- 
rior  as  regards  the  latter  to  the  ch.  of  S. 
Francesco  at  Assisi.  In  parts  of  the 
exterior,  perhaps  from  compliance  with- 
the  habits  of  the  native  masons,  roimd 
forms  are  used.  It  may  be  described 
in  a  few  words  as  Lombard  outside. 
Pointed  or  Gothic  within.  The  facade, 
as  well  as  the  rest  of  the  exterior,  is 
Lombard ;  but  the  interior  presents  the 
exact  appearance  of  a  French  or  Eng- 
lish building,  in  the  early  Gothic 
style.  The  arches  are  pointed.  Light 
pUlars,  with  foUage  capitals,  run  up  to 
support  the  6  arches  and  the  groinings 
of  the  roof.  The  windows  in  the  chan- 
cel are  lancet;  those  of  the  nave 
round-headed.  The  interior  has  been 
much  injured  by  the  recent  injudi- 
cious restorations,  and  painting  in  the 
worst  possible  taste.  The  material  of 
the  walls  is  brick,  with  stone  joints, 
windows,  and  doors  ;  the  columns  and 
facade  of  stone,  cliiefly  serpentine  and 
grey  limestone.  The  campanile  was 
added  by  Pietro  del  Verme  in  1399 ;  it 
is  detached  from  the  ch.,  at  the  ex- 
tremity of  the  rt.  transept,  a  square 
tower,  with  a  low  spire. 

The  ancient  tombs  formerly  here 
have  been  destroyed,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  that  in  a  chapel  of  the  rt.  tran- 
sept, of  the  first  abbot,  and  architect 
of  the  church,  Tomaso  Gallo,  a  French 
ecclesiastic  (ob.  1246),  upon  which  is 
a  curious  painting,  where  he  is  repre- 
sented as  surrounded  by  his  disciples ; 
amongst  others,  St.  Anthony  of  Padua, 
distinguished  by  a  halo  of  glory :  be- 
low, on  a  contemporary  bas-relief,  GaUo 


3G 


Hcnde  2. —  VerceUi — San  Grxstofero, 


Sect.  t. 


is  seen  kneeling  before  the  Yirgia,  while 
St.  Bionysius  the  Areopagite  presents 
him  to  the  Madonna.  The  church  lias 
lately  had  the  addition  of  painted  glass 
and  Gothic  confessionals,  not  in  the 
best  taste. 

Th-Q-Sospital^  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  street,  founded  by  Cardinal  G-uala, 
retains  its  original  endowment  and 
destination.  It  contains  a  pictur- 
esque cloister,  with  the  arms  of  its 
founder ;  a  Bicchiere  or  drinking-glass ; 
a  crypt-like  Gt>thic  chapel  beneath  the 
principal  ward;  a  Museum, not  of  much 
interest ;  and  a  Botanic  Q«rden. 

The  ch.  of  San  Cristofero,  at  the  E. 
extremity  of  the  city,  close  to  the  In- 
tendenza,  contains  some  goodfrescoesby 
6hiudenzio  Ferrari,  an  artist  much  less 
known  beyond  the  Alps  than  many  infe- 
rior ones,  owing  to  his  best  works  being 
in  fresco,  and  not  removable.  He  was 
bom  in  1484,  in  Valdugia,  in  the  pro- 
vince of  Vercelli ;  and  not  being  able  to 
find  a  teacher  of  the  art  he  loved  in 
his  native  place,  he  came  to  Yercelli 
for  the  sake  of  instruction.  Q-iovenone 
was  his  first  master ;  and  so  proud  was 
he  of  his  pupil,  that  in  some  of  his 
paintings  he  signs  himself  "  G^eronimo 
GKovenone,  maestro  di  Qtiudenzio."  He 
afterwards  studied  under  Perugino  and 
Baphael.  The  magistrates  of  Vercelli 
conferred  on  him  the  municipal  free- 
dom; and  the  city  where  Gtkudenzio 
was  thus  instructed  and  adopted  claims 
him  as  her  own. 

This  church  was  anciently  attached 
to  a  convent  of  the  Umihati,  and  after- 
wards belonged  to  the  Jesuits.  The 
paintings  by  Gaudenzio  were  chiefly 
executed  for  two  brothers  of  the  former 
order,  by  name  Corradi  and  Lignone,  be- 
tween the  years  1532  and  1534,  and  are 
so  remarkable  as  to  merit  a  more  than 
ordinarily  detailed  description.  Most 
of  them  were  executed  by  Graudenzio's 
own  hand,  in  some  he  was  assisted  by 
his  pupil  Lanini.  They  are  in  the  two 
recesses  at  the  extremities  of  the  aisles 
corresponding  to  the  transepts. 

Looking  towards  the  altar,  and  on 
the  1.  of  the  spectator,  the  principal 
subject,  forming  one  composition  from 


top  to  bottom,  IB — 1.  the  AsdumpUon 
of  the  Virgin^  very  fine  and  grand.  A 
group  of  the  apostles  fills  the  lower 
part  of  the  composition. 

As  introductory  to  the  Assumption, 
and  painted  in  smaller  compartments 
on  the  side-wall,  are,  forming  2  sub- 
jects— 2.  the  Birth  of  the  Virgin  ;  3. 
her  Marriage,  or  the  8poaaUzio*    In 
the    background    of   the    latter   the 
painter  has  introduced  the  Presenta- 
tion in  the  Temple.    4.  The  Natiuiiy 
of  our  Lord.    The  Yirgin  is  kneeling 
before  the  infant  Saviour,  to  whom  she 
is  presented  by  angels,  perhaps  the  finest 
pauii  of  all  the  frescoes  here.  The  Annun- 
ciation, and  the  Visitation  of  St.  Ehza- 
beth,  are  introduced  in  the  background. 
5.  The  Adoration  of  the  Magi,    Many 
portraits  are  evidently  introduced  into 
this  composition,  particularly  a  pro- 
minent figure  with  a  cap  and  feathers, 
holding  a  falcon.     So  also  the  bearded 
king  kneeling  before  the  Virgin.    This 
fresco  contains  portraits  of  the  painter, 
of  his  master  Gl-iovenone,  and  of  his  pupil 
Lanini.     Groups  of  pages,  esquires,  and 
attendants  fill  the  scene.    Between  the 
Nativity  and  the  Adoration  the  painter 
has  introduced  a  group,  representing 
S.  Catherine  of  Siena  and  S.  Nicholas  of 
Ban  presenting  to  the  Virgin  and  Child 
two  novices  of  the  Lignone  fieunily. 

Passing  to  the  rt.-hand  transept,  the 
principal  composition  is — 1.  the  Cruci" 
fixion,  fiiU  of  expressive  figures  and 
fetces,  wonderfully  foreshortened;  the 
converted  Centurion  and  the  Magdalene 
are  the  most  conspicuous ;  the  former  a 
most  singular  figure,  clad  nearly  in  the 
fashion  of  the  court  of  Henry  VIII., 
in  the  second  row.  In  the  left- 
hand  comer  is  the  portrait  of  Padre 
Angelo  Corradi.  The  angels  hovering 
about  the  cross,  one  receiving  the  soul 
of  the  good  thief  "  Castas  "  (according 
to  the  legend),  and  another  weeping  for 
the  loss  of  the  soul  of  the  impenitent 
thief  "  Dysmas."  Upon  the  adjoining 
wall  is  the  history  of  the  Magdalene, 
consisting  of  the  following  subjects  : 
2.  Above,  the  Conversion  of  the  Magda^ 
lene,  who  is  represented  seated,  with  her 
sister  Martha,  listening  to  the  preacli- 


I^IEDMOltT. 


lloute  2.—  Vercetti  to  ^omra. 


3? 


ing  of  our  Lord.  3.  Our  Lord  at  the 
table  of  Simon  the  JPhariaeey  the  Mag- 
dalene kissing  his  feet.  Yeiy  many 
figures  are  introduced,  but  a  consider- 
able part  of  the  fresco  is  entirely  de- 
stroyed. 4.  Below,  on  1.,  the  Arrival 
and  JPreachififf  at  MarseUles,  a  scene 
from  the  legendary  life  of  the  Ma^dor 
lene ;  according  to  which,  St.  Mary 
Magdalene,  St.  Matthew,  St.  Lazarus, 
with  some  other  disciples  of  our  Lord, 
after  his  ascension,  being  expelled  by  the 
Jews,  embarked  from  Judea,  and  landed 
at  Marseilles,  of  which  place  St.  Laza- 
rus became  the  first  bishop,  and  where 
they  were  receiyed  by  St.  Maximinus, 
afterwards  Bishop  of  Aix,  arid  St.  Mar- 
cella.  The  city  is  seen  in  the  distance. 
This  and  the  following  fresco,  which 
are  attributed  entirely  to  Lanini,  are 
very  fine,  and  the  best  preserved  of  the 
whole.  5.  The  Assumption  of  the 
Magdalene :  she  is  carried  up  by  angels 
to  pray ;  her  death  and  burial  are  seen 
in  the  background.  One-half  of  the 
principal  figure,  the  Magdalene,  was 
entirely  destroyed,  at  the  same  time  as 
the  painting  beneath,  by  a  cannon-shot 
during  the  siege  of  Yercelli  in  1704. 


Ch.  of  Santa  Caterina»  Here  is  a 
Marriage  of  the  patron  saint,  by  0-. 
Ferraii :  with  ^t.  Francis,  St.  Agape- 
tus,  and  St.  Anthony. 

San  JBemcwddno  has  a  fresco  repre- 
senting Our  Lord  about  to  be  nailed 
to  the  Cross.  This  church  has  some  cu- 
rious remains  of  Lombard  architecture. 

In  the  Casa  Mariano  is  a  good  fresco 
by  Lanini — the  Feast  of  the  Gods,  and 
some  other  allegorical  and  mytholo- 
gical figures.  The  hall,  on  the  wall  of 
which  it  is,  is  now  a  granary. 

There  is  a  good  theatre  at  Vercelli, 
for  a  country  town.  [A  railway  to 
Valenza  branches  off  at  Vercelli  (26  m.) : 
the  stations  are — 8  kil.  AsigUanoj  4, 
Pertengo;  5,  Balzola;  6,  Casale;  7, 
Borgo  S.  Martino  j  5,  Giarole ;  7,  Va- 
lenza. Another  in  progress,  across  the 
plain  to  Mortara.] 

On  learing  Vercelli  we  cross  the 
Sesia  upon  a  long  bridge.  Monte 
Bosa  appears  again  with  great  beauty, 
and  hence  to  Novara,  generally,  the 
Alps  are  seen  in  all  their  majesty.  This 
mountain  view  is  much  enhanced  in 
effect  by  the  peculiar  characteristics  of 
the  great  plain  of  Lombardy.      The 


OtherworksofGaudenzio  Ferrari  are   open  face  of  Flanders    is  not   more 


— ^the  Madonna  enthroned,  on  panel, 
attended  by  saints,  amongst  whom  St. 
Christopher,  as  pal^on  of  the  church,  is 
conspicuous  in  front.  The  painter  has 
followed  the  popular  legend  by  repre- 
senting this  saint  as  a  giant  compared 
to  the  other  figures.  St.  John  the  Bap- 
tist is  seen  in  the  background.  Two 
portraits  of  Umiliati  monks,  probably 
the  donors,  are  introduced. 

In  the  sacristy  is  a  Virgin  enthroned, 
with  St.  Peter  Martyr  and  another 
monk,  by  Lanini ;  thorough  monastic 
&ces. 

The  frescoes  are  all  more  or  less 
injured.  The  first  damage  occurred 
during  the  siege  in  1638,  although  the 
yQung  Marquis  de  Leganez  forbade  his 
artilleiymen  to  fire  on  the  church  of 
St.  Ohnstopher,  lest  the  masterpiece  of 
Ferrari  should  be  injured.  But  they 
eufiered  more  from  the  French,  who 
converted  the  church  into  a  place  of 
oostody  for  refractory  conscripts. 


level;  and  the  soil,  much  intersected 
by  ditches  and  canals,  is  teeming  with 
exuberant  fertility.  We  have  the  con- 
trast of  the  richest  plain  and  grandest 
mountain  scenery,  the  principal  culti- 
vation between  Vercelli  and  Novara 
being  rice. 

[About  4  m.  on  the  rt.,  after  crossing 
the  Sesia,  a  road  by  Torrione  leads  to 
Vinaglio  and  Palestro,  scenes  of  very 
brilliant  actions,  especially  the  latter, 
between  the  Piedmontese  and  the  Aus- 
trians,  on  the  30th  and  Slst  May  1859, 
and  in  which  the  King  of  Sardinia  con- 
ducted himself  most  heroically  at  the 
head  of  his  little  army.  The  Austrians, 
who  had  invaded  Piedmont  in  the  early 
part  of  the  month,  pushing  their  ad- 
vances as  far  as  the  Dora  Baltea,  and 
threatening  the  capital,  had  occupied 
VCTy  strongly  Vercelli  and  the  line 
of  the  Sesia,  until  the  28th,  when, 
in  consequence  of  the  great  flank 
movement  of  the  French  Emperor  from 


88 


Soute  2. — Na^ra — The  Duohio. 


Sect.  I. 


the  S.  bank  of  the  Po  to  the  Ticino, 
the  Allied  Army  occupied  VerceUi, 
with  the  intention  of  invading  Lom- 
bardy  on  the  side  of  the  latter  river. 
No  time  was  lost  therefore  in  crossing 
the  Sesia :  on  the  30th  the  Piedmontese, 
who  formed  the  advanced  guard  of  the 
army,  occupied  the  villages  of  VinzagUo^ 
Confienza^  and  Faiestro^  after  a  very 
serious  resistance  on  the  part  of  the 
Austrians.  On  the  31st  the  latter 
made  a  strong  effort  to  retake  Palestro, 
but  sustained  a  signal  defeat  from  the 
Picdmontese,  on  this  occasion,  however, 
aided  by  3000  French  Zouaves,  who 
fought  with  extraordinary  bravery,  the 
Austrians  leaving  on  the  field  of  battle 
2100  between  kiSed  and  wounded,  950 
prisoners,  and  6  pieces  of  cannon. 
On  the  same  day  Marshal  Canrobert 
crossed  the  Sesia  at  Prarola,  and 
General  M'Mahon  at  Yercelli,  with 
their  two  corps  d'armee ;  the  main 
body  of  the  Ausfcrians  under  Giulay 
retreating  on  Mortara,  and  subse- 
quently crossing  the  Ticino,  as  we 
shall  see  presently  in  speaking  of  the 
great  battles  which  decided  the  first 
part  of  this  extraordinary  campaign, 
at  Buffalora  and  Magenta.] 

5  kil.  Borgo  Vercelli  Stat.y  and  5  m. 
farther 

7  kil.  Ponzana  Stat, 

A  mile  beyond  Torrion  JBalduccOy 
where  meadows  and  mulberry- tree  plan- 
tations succeed  to  marshes  and  rice- 
fields,  cross  the  Agogna  torrent,  and 
soon  after  reach 

10  kil.  Novara  Junct.  Stat  {Inns: 
Albergo  de'  tre  E^ ;  a  very  tolerable  inn ; 
Albergo  d'ltalia,  formerly  the  Pesce 
d'Oro,  recently  fitted  up  on  an  ex- 
tensive scale,  and  good),  a  flourishing 
city  of  16,000  Inhab.  Novara  is  situ- 
ated on  a  rising  ground  above  the 
plain  of  the  Terdoppio ;  there  are 
some  good  streets  in  it,  well  paved  on 
the  Lombard  system.  The  town  was 
formerly  surrounded  by  fortifications, 
which  had  witnessed  many  an  on- 
slaught ;  but  nearly  all  have  now  dis- 
appeared. There  is  no  point  from 
which  Monte  Hosa  is  seen  to  greater 
advantage  than  from  here,  especially 


from  the  N.  extremity  of  the  street  lead- 
ing to  the  Bly.  Stat.  Around  the  town 
extends  the  plain,  cultivated  like  a  rich 
garden;  but  the  soil  is  marshy,  and 
the  neighbourhood  rather  mihealthy. 

The  Duomo  is  an  early  Lombard 
building,  somewhat  damaged  on  the 
outside  by  neglect  and  weather,  and 
more  so  within  by  recent  repairs  and 
adornments.  The  choir  and  transepts 
are  masked  by  the  stucco,  the  paint- 
ings, and  the  gildings  introduced  within 
the  last  20  years.  The  high  altar, 
though  quite  out  of  place,  is  a  splen- 
did structiuw.  It  has  some  angels 
executed  by  Thorwaldsen.  The  nave 
remains  nearly  in  its  original  state; 
many  ancient  columns  are  inserted. 

In  the  chapel  of  St.  Joseph  are  several 
frescoes  by  Luini,  of  the  Sibyls,  portions 
of  the  history  of  the  Virgin,  partly  scrip- 
tural and  partly  legendary.  They  are 
rather  injured  by  damp ;  but  enough 
remains  to  show  that  they  ftilly  deserve 
the  praises  which  have  been  bestowed 
upon  them  by  those  who  saw  them 
when  they  were  more  perfect.  Of  the 
six  subjects  on  the  walls,  the  Adoration 
of  the  Magi,  and  the  FHght  into  Egypt, 
are  the  best  preserved.  In  the  sacristy 
are  a  Marriage  of  St.  Catherine,  by  Qau- 
denzio  Ferrari;  an  Adoration  of  the 
Magi,  by  Lanini ;  and  a  Last  Supper, 
by  Cesare  da  Sesto,  or  Morosoni. 

The  pavement  of  the  Duomo  is  a 
relic  of  the  original  structure.  It  is 
of  Mosaic,  worked  and  laid  in  the 
Koman  manner,  probably  by  Byzan- 
tine artists  of  the  9th  or  10th  cen- 
tury :  only  two  colours  are  employed, 
black  and  white.  The  compartments 
are  divided  by  borders  of  frets  and 
grotesques,  such  as  are  usually  found 
in  the  tesselated  pavements  of  Boman 
baths.  The  figures  in  the  medallions 
are  all  birds ; — the  pelican,  an  emblem 
of  the  love  of  the  Saviour ;  the  phoe- 
nix, of  the  resurrection ;  the  stork,  gf 
filial  piety.  They  are  very  remarkable  as 
early  specimens  of  Christian  allegory. 

There  was  a  square  atrium,  or  fore- 
court, in  front  of  the  cathedral,  in 
the  walls  of  which  were  inserted  many 
Eomau    and  'medieeval    inscriptions. 


PlEDMOKT. 


Houte  2. — Kovai*a — Churches. 


89 


This  intei^sting  court,  as  well  as  the 
fronts  of  the  cathedral  and  baptistery, 
have  been  swept  away  to  make  room 
for  a  Corinthian  portico,  surrounded  by 
columns  of  Baveno  granite,  a  most  re- 
grettable piece  of  Capitular  VandaHsm, 
recently  perpetrated  by  a  local  archi- 
tect, at  the  instigation  of  the  canons. 
It  is  difficult  to  imagine  anything 
more  out  of  keeping  with  what  re- 
mains of  the  venerable  mediaeval  edi- 
fice. It  is  proposed  to  case  the  body  of 
the  cathedral  in  the  same  style,  so  as 
to  form  an  open  portico  on  one  side  of 
the  great  market-place  of  the  town. 
From  the  side  opposite  to  the  great 
door  of  the  cathedral  opens  the 
curious  circular  Baptutery^  supported, 
as  is  the  case  with  almost  all  the  very 
early  edifices  of  the  kind,  by  ancient 
coliimns ;  and  hence  the  tradition,  al- 
most invariably  annexed  to  these  build- 
ings, of  their  having  been  Pagan  tem- 
ples. These  columns  of  white  marble 
are  fluted  and  of  the  Corinthian  order, 
and  have  originally  belonged  to  an  edi- 
fice of  a  good  Koman  period;  in  the 
centre  of  the  floor  is  a  circular  Horn  an 
urn,  bearing  an  inscription  to  Umbrena 
Polla:  it  is  nowused  as  a  baptismal  font. 
In  the  recesses  between  the  colvanns 
are  representations  of  the  events  of  the 
Passion.  The  figures,  in  plastic  work, 
are  as  large  as  life,  and  painted  in  gaudy 
colours ;  and  in  some  cases  the  resem- 
blance to  hfe  is  completed  by  the  addi- 
tion of  real  hair.  They  have  been  attri- 
buted to  Gaudenzio  Ferrari,  but,  if  so, 
they  do  httle  honour  to  him  as  compo- 
sitions, although  many  of  the  figm^s 
ftre  of  fair  workmanship.  The  two 
finest  groups  are  the  Qtirden  of  Olives 
and  the  Scourging  of  our  Lord;  one 
of  the  executioners  is  sitting  down,  tired 
-with  his  work ;  the  Boman  soldier  looks 
on  with  pity ;  the  other  can  no  longer 
look,  and  turns  away. 

The  Archives  of  the  Duomo  contain 
some  curious  specimens  of  the  antiqui- 
ties of  the  Lower  Empire  and  the 
middle  ages,  and  some  very  old  docu- 
ments. There  are  two  fine  ivory  dip- 
tychs :  on  the  first  the  consul  is  repre- 
sented at  full-length,  under  a  species  of 


cupola  supported  by  columns,  in  the 
style  of  which  we  may  see  most  evi- 
dently the  transition  which  produced 
the  Lombard  or  Norman  style.  This 
diptych  contains  a  list  of  the  bishops 
from  Gaudentius  to  the  year  1170 ;  the 
second  bears  the  bust  of  a  consul,  and 
contains  another  hst  of  the  bishops 
from  G-audentius  to  William  of  Cre- 
mona, in  1343.  There  is  also  a  life 
of  St.  Gaudentius,  and  other  saints  of 
Novara,  written  in  700,  and  a  petition 
to  Bishop  Gfrazioso,  in  730,  for  the 
consecration  of  an  altar  erected  to  St. 
Michael.  The  hbrary  of  the  semi- 
nary, which  is  open  to  the  public  3 
days  a-week,  contains  about  12,000  vols. 

The  Duomo  of  Novara  is  known  in 
Italy  as  a  distinguished  school  for 
church  music;  and  the  office  of  Maestro 
di  Capella  has  usually  been  given  to  emi- 
nent composers.  In  more  recent  times 
the  place  has  been  held  by  Generali 
and  Mercadante. 

The  Basilica  of  San  Gaudenzio,  the 
patron  saint  of  Novara  and  its  first 
bishop,  was  entirely  rebuilt  by  Pelle- 
grini in  the  16th  centy,,  and  is  a  noble 
structure ;  the  sepulchral  chapel  of  the 
patron  saint  is  very  magnificent :  the  high 
altarwas  erected  in  I725,and  betrays  the 
bad  taste  of  that  time.  This  church 
contains  one  of  the  finest  works  of 
Gaudenzio  Ferrari.  It  was  originally 
over  the  high  altar ;  but,  upon  the  latter 
being  re-constructed,  it  was  placed  in 
the  2nd  chapel  on  1.  on  entering  the  ch. 
It  consists  of  six  compartments,  en- 
closed in  a  framework  richly  carved  and 
gilt,  also  executed  by  the  painter.  The 
date  of  this  work  (1515)  is  exactly 
fixed  by  the  contract  between  the  artist 
and  the  chapter  in  the  archives  of  the 
chmrch.  The  principal  compartments 
contain  the  Nativity  above,  with  the 
Madonna  and  Child,  and  SS.  Peter, 
Paul,  the  Baptist,  and  Nicholas,  with 
attending  angels,  below.  Much  gild- 
ing is  introduced  into  the  garments  of 
the  figures ;  and  tliis  adornment  is  the 
subject  of  a  special  clause  in  the  con- 
tract. This  was  his  largest  work  before 
he  went  to  Rome,  and  the  last  in  his 
earher  style.     In  the  4th  chapel  on  the 


40 


Itaute  2. — N&cara — Battle, 


Sect,  t 


rt.  is  a  crucifix  modelled  by  Ferrari. 
The  church  also  contains — the  Depo- 
sition from  the  Cross,  by  Moncalvo; 
Morazzonc,  the  Last  Judgment ;  and 
some  recent  frescoes  by  SabatelH,  Thef 
archives  of  San  Ghiudenzio  are  valuable. 
A  consular  diptych  of  great  beauty,  on 
which  are  sculptured  two  Roman  con- 
suls giving  the  signal  for  the  public 
games,  and  some  early  manuscripts,  are 
worthy  of  notice.  The  bell- tower  of  S. 
Gaudenzio  is  fine,  and  so  lofty  as  to 
form  a  very  conspicuous  object,  being 
visible  fi'om  a  great  distance.  A  huge 
and  ugly  oviform  cupola  has  been  re- 
cently erected  over  the  intersection  of 
the  nave  and  transepts :  it  is  sur- 
rounded on  the  outside  by  a  double  cir- 
cular portico  of  Corinthian  columns, 
and,  exceeding  in  height  the  bell-tower, 
conceals  the  latter  on  the  N.  and  W. 
sides. 

Ch.  of  San  Pietro  al  Rosario^  for- 
merly annexed  to  a  Dominican  con- 
vent, now  suppressed,  was  finished  in 
1618.  It  contains  some  good  wall- 
paintings  in  oil  by  a  Novarese  artist  of 
the  last  century  :  and  the  Virgin,  St. 
Peter  Martyr,  and  St.  Catherine,  in 
the  chapel  of  the  Rosary,  by  Qiulio 
Cesar e  Procaccini.  Here,  in  1307, 
sentence  was  passed  on  Frate  Dolcino, 
who  preached  the  tenets  of  Manes,  and 
a  community  of  goods  and  women. 
Having  retreated  to  the  mountains 
above  VerceUi,  at  the  head  of  5000 
disciples,  he  was  defeated  on  Maundy 
Thui'sday,  in  a  pitched  battle,  by  the 
Novarese,  and  taken  prisoner.  He  and 
his  concubine,  the  beautiful  Margaret, 
a  nun  whom  he  had  abducted  from 
her  convent,  were  burnt  alive  (March 
23,  1307).  They  both  behaved  with 
extraordinary 'firmness  at  their  execu- 
tion, wliich  was  accompanied  with  cir- 
cumstances of  most  revolting  cruelty. 
Dante  introduces  Mahomet  requesting 
him  to  warn  Dolcino  of  his  approach- 
ing fate : — 

"  Or  di'  a  fra  Dolcin  dunqne,  che  a'  arm!, 
Tu,  che  forse  vedrai  il  sole  in  breve, 
(S*  egli  non.  vuol  qui  tosto  aeguitarmi) 
Sidi  vivanda,  che  stretta  di  neve 
Non  rechi  la  vittoria  al  Novarese, 
Ch'  altrimenti  acquistar  non  saria  leve." 

Inferno,  xxviii.  55-60. 


**  Thoa  who  perhaps  the  aun  wilt  ahortly  aee, 
Exhort  Friar  Dolcin,  that  with  atore  of  food 
(Unless  he  wish  full  soon  to  follow  me) 
lie  arm  himself;  lest,  straiten'd  by  the  snow, 
A  triumph  to  Novara  be  allow'd 
O'er  him  whom  else  he  coald  not  overthrow." 

There  is  a  rather  good  theatre  at 
Novara,  which  is"  open  for  operas  and 
ballets  during  the  carnival  and  the 
autumn. 

Much  building  is  now  in  progress  at 
Novara,  exhibiting  the  prosperous  state 
of  the  country.  The  newMercato^  which 
also  contains  the  ofiices  of  the  Tribunal 
of  Commerce,  has  been  built  from  the 
designs  of  Professor  Orelli  of  Milan. 

The  Ospedale  Maggiore,  with  its 
cortile  supported  by  88  columns  of 
granite,  less  ornamented  than  the 
MercaiOj  is  also  a  great  ornament  to 
the  city.  The  ancient  streets  of  low 
cloistered  arches  are  disappearing  fast 
before  lofty  arcades  like  those  of  Turin. 

A  statue  of  Carlo  Emanuele  III., 
by  Marchesi,  and  a  monument  to  King 
Charles  Albert,  in  the  shape  of  a  broken 
column,  have  been  lately  erected  near 
the  Palazzo  delta  CHustizia.  The 
extension  of  the  Rly.  to  Novara  has 
addcjd  greatly  to  its  prosperity  and 
commercial  activity.  Placed  as  it 
now  is  within  a  few  hours'  of  Turin, 
MUan,  and  G^noa,  it  forms  the  point 
where  all  the  communications  to  the 
Lago  Maggiore,  and,  the  most  im- 
portant now,  across  the  Alps,  converge. 
There  are  two  or  three  mediEBval  towers 
still  standing  in  the  centre  of  the  town. 

The  Rly.  Stat,  is  in  the  plain  of  the 
Terdoppio,  a  few  hundred  yds.  beyond 
the  N.E.  extremity  of  Novara.  A 
mommaent  to  Count  Cavour  has  beeu 
erected  near  it. 

It  WAS  to  the  S.  of  the  town  of  Novara, 
almost  in  its  suburbs,  that  took  place 
on  the  23rd  of  March,  1849,  the 
sanguinary  action  between  the  Aus- 
trians  and  the  Piedmontese,  which,  ter- 
minated in  the  defeat  of  the  latter, 
and  the  abdication  of  the  brave  and 
chivalrous  Carlo  Alberto.  That  unfor- 
tunate sovereign,  pressed  by  the  denio- 
cratic  party  at  Turin,  denounced  the 
armistice  into  which  he  had  entered 
in  August  of  the  preceding  year,  after 


Piedmont.  Soute  2. — Ticino — Naviglio  Grande. 


41 


hia  unsnccessful  campaign  on  the  Adige 
I     and  the  Mincio,  and  prepared  to  invade 
j      the  Austrian  territory  by  crossing  the 
Ticino  on  the  21st  March.      On  the 
same  day  the  veteran  Radetsky  invaded 
the   Piedmontes^  territory  by  cross- 
ing the  same  river  at  Pavia,  with  a 
I     well-equipped  army    of    60,000  men, 
in  4  divisions.    Without  losing  a  mo- 
ment his  advanced  guard  was  put  into 
motion  in  the  direction  of  the  head- 
!      quarters  of  the  Piedmontese  army,  then 
'■     lying   between    Novara  and   Trecate. 
After  a  hard-fought  action  at  Mor- 
tara,    on    the    2l8t,    in    which    the 
Piedmontese  were  worsted,   the  Aus- 
trians  advanced  upon  Novara,  where 
both  armies    engaged  on    the    2drd, 
the   Austrians  under    Badetsky,  the 
Piedmontese  commanded  by  the  Po- 
lish Q-eneral  Chemowski,  under   the 
King    in   person.      The  site    of   the 
battle  is  a  little  S.  of  the  town  in 
the  plain  separating  the  Agogna  and 
Terdoppio  streams.     The  heat  of  the 
action   was  between  Olengo  and  the 
chapel  of  La  Bicocca,  about  2^  m.  S. 
of  Novara,  on  the  road  to  Mortara :  the 
Piedmontese  performed    prodigies    of 
valour,  led  on  by  Carlo  Alberto  and  his 
sons  the  Dukes  of  Savoy  (the  present 
Xing  of  Italy,  V.  Emanuel)  and  Genoa. 
The  conflict  lasted  during  the  whole 
day,     and    at    its    close    the    Pied- 
montese retired    through    the    town, 
committing  some  acts  of  pillage  and 
disorder.      On  the  26th  of  March  an 
armistice  was   signed,    in  which  Ra- 
detsky showed  generosity   as   a   vic- 
tor—  the  whole   campaign,  from  the 
crossing  of  the  Ticino  at  Pavia,  having 
only  lasted  5  days. 

Rlwys.  fi'om  Novara  to  Arona  (see 
Rte.  6),  and  up  the  valley  of  the 
Agogna  to  Qozzano,  near  the  Lake  of 
.  Orta,  in  1^  hr.,  passing  through  Bor- 
gomanero.  Conveyances  from  Gozzano 
to  Orta  in  an  hour ;  and  from  Orta  to 
Duomo  d'Ossola  in  correspondence 
with  the  diligences  to  Lausanne  over 
the  Simplon. 

lieaTing  Novara,  the  rly,  crosses  the 
plain  to 
,  9  kil,  Trecate  Stat.,  a  large  village. 


2  m.  farther  is  San  Martino,  situated 
on  the  highest  point  of  the  escarpment 
on  the  W.  side  of  the  valley  of  the 
Ticino.  From  San  Martino  less  than  a 
mile  brings  us  to  the  Ticino,  crossing, 
before  reaching  it,  2  canals,  which,  de- 
rived about  2  m.  higher  up,  irrigate  the 
districts  of  Vigevano  and  S.  Martino. 

5  kil.  Ticino  Stat.,  near  the  rt.  bank 
of  the  river. 

The  T^no,  until  1859  the  boundary 
between  the  dominions  of  Sardinia  and 
Austrian  Lombardy,  is  here  a  fine  river, 
with  a  wide  gravelly  bed  which  is  fre- 
quently changing.  The  Ponte  Nuovo, 
by  which  it  is  crossed^  is  of  the  granite 
of  Montorfano,  and  has  11  arches  all 
of  the  same  size;  its  length  is  997 
feet ;  it  cost  128,603/.  It  was  begim  by 
the  French  in  1810,  afterwards  stopped 
by  poUtical  events,  resumed  in  1823, 
and  completed  in  1827  by  the  two  so- 
vereigns whose  territories  it  then  joined. 
It  is  one  of  the  finest  works  of  the  kind 
in  Italy.  The  Austrians  attempted,  in 
their  retreat  from  Piedmont,  to  blow 
up  the  eastern  arches  on  the  2nd  of 
May,  1859,  but  not  sufiiciently  so  as 
to  prevent  the  French  crossing  it  on 
the  day  following,  1  m.  farther,  by  a 
very  gradual  ascent,  brings  us  to  the 
Canal  or  Namglio  Grande,  which  is 
here  rapid  and  clear,  and  which  is 
crossed  a  few  hundred  yards  to  the  1. 
on  the  old  post-road,  by  the  Ponte  di 
Magenta^where  Napoleon  1 1 1,  remained 
during  the  greater  part  of  the  battle  of 
the  4th  of  May. 

The  Naviglio  Grande,  which  derives 
its  water  from  the  Ticino  at  the  village 
of  Tomavento  about  8  m.  higher  up, 
after  first  reaching  Milan,  connects  the 
Ticino  and  the  Po,  and  is  remarkable 
as  being  the  earHest  artificial  canal 
in  Europe,  with  the  exception  (not 
quite  certain)  of  that  between  Ghent 
and  Bruges.  It  was  begun  in  the  12th 
centy.  The  first  portion  ended  at  Abbia- 
tegrasso,  and  was  intended  principally 
for  the  purposes  of  irrigation.  In  1259 
it  was  continued  to  Milan  by  Napoleone 
della  Torre,  and  also  deepened  and  bet- 
ter adapted  for  navigation.  It  is  still 
mainly  useftd  for  its  original  purpose. 


42 


Route  2. — Battle  of  Magenta, 


Sect.  1. 


The  country  on  either  side  is  irrigated 
by  the  numerous  watercourses  which 
flow  from  it.  The  flood-gates  are 
locked  and  opened  when  required,  under 
particular  regulations,  so  as  to  secure 
to  the  adjoining  landowners  their  due 
share  of  the  fertiUsing  waters.  1  m. 
on  1.  of  P.  di  Magenta  is  the  village  of 
Buflalora.  3  m.  higher  up  the  Ticino 
is  Turbigo,  opposite  which  Marshal 
M*Mahon  crossed  the  river  on  the  3rd 
of  June,  the  first  entrance  of  the  allied 
army  into  Lombardy  in  the  memorable 
campaign  of  1859. 

7  kU.  Magenta  Stat.,  the  town  on 
the  rt.  It  was  founded  by  the  Empe- 
ror Maximilian,  and  destroyed  by  Bar- 
barossa.  It  is  in  the  midst  of  a  most 
fertile  district  of  mulberry-trees  and 
com. 

As  Magenta  and  its  environs  were 
the  scene  of  one  of  the  greatest  battles 
during  the  war  that  ended  by  the  libe- 
ration of  Italy  from  the  rule  of  Austria, 
it  will  not  be  out  of  place  here  to  say 
a  few  words  on  the  military  operations 
of  which  it  was  the  culminating  event. 

Our  readers  need  scarcely  be  in- 
formed that  after  the  entrance  of  the 
Austrians  into  Piedmont,  in  the  spring 
of  1859,  advancing  as  far  as  the  Dora, 
and  to  within  a  few  miles  of  Turin,  they 
continued  to  occupy  the  country  be- 
tween the  Dora,  Sesia,  and  Ticino, 
covering  Lombardy  from  invasion  on 
the  W.,  whilst  the  Sardo-French  army 
occupied  the  country  S.  of  the  Po, 
and  especially  the  line  extending  from 
Alessandria  to  the  frontier  of  the  duchy 
of  Piacenza,receiving  their  suppUes  from 
Q-enoa,  and  supported  by  fortresses 
of  Alessandria,  and  Casale ;  the  Allies 
menacing  thus  the  whole  line  of  the  Po 
from  V^enza  to  La  Stradella,  where 
the  Lombard  frontier  was  strongly 
defended;  the  Austrians  crossing  at 
times  the  river.  It  was  in  one  of  these 
expeditions,  a  kind  of  gigantic  recon- 
naissance that  was  fought  the  brilliant 
action  of  MontebeUo,  near  Casteg- 
gio,  so  honourable  to  the  Piedmontese 
army  (p.  57). 

Tlie  French  Emperor  towards  the 
close  of  May,  having  become  persuaded 


that  an  invasion  of  Lombardy  from 
the  S.  wo\ild  be  attended  with  insu- 
perable obstacles,  all  at  once  changed 
his  plan  of  operations,  and  by  a  rapid 
flank  movement  in  a  few  days  trans- 
ferred the  greater  part  of  the  Allied 
army  into    the  plains   of  the    Sesia, 
thus  turning  almost  unperceived  and 
unsuspected  the    right    wing  of   the 
Austrian  army;   in  this  rapid  transfer, 
for  it  can  scarcely  be  called  a  march, 
the  railways  from  Alexandria  offered 
the  greatest  facilities.    On  the  28th  of 
May  this  flank  movement  commenced, 
crossing  the  Po  at  Casale,  and  on  the 
30th  the  great  mass  of  the  Allies  was  en- 
camped on  the  W.  side  of  the  Sesia, 
having  their  head-quarters  at  VerceUi ; 
the  Austrians  under   Griulay  holding 
the  opposite  bank,  and  all  the  country 
between  it  and  the  Ticino.     On  the 
3CM;h  the  Piedmontese  commenced  their 
onward  march,  occupying  Borgo  Yer- 
celli,  and  attacked   with  success  the 
Austrians  at  Conflenza,  Yinzaglio,  and 
Palestro ;  but  the  latter  returning  to 
occupy  their  former  positions  on  the 
following  day,  the  Piedmontese,  aided 
by  the  French  Zouaves,  gained  a  very 
important    victory    at    Palestro,    the 
consequence  of  which  was  the  retreat 
of  the  Austrians  in  the  direction  of 
Bereguardo  and  Pavia.     The  French 
army  crossed  the  Sesia  on  the  same 
day,  and  on  the  following  occupied 
without  opposition  Novara.      On  the 
2nd  of  June  General  M*Mahon  ad- 
vanced   from    Novara,     crossed    the 
Ticino  with   scarcely   any  opposition 
at  Turbigo,   and   estabhshed   himself 
there  and  in  the  adjoining  village  of 
Kobechetto,  the  Sardinian  army  fol- 
lowing on    the  3rd.      On  the  latter 
day  the  Emperor  of  the  French,  with 
the  Imperial  guard,  moved  from  No- 
vara,    by   the    post -road    to    Milan, 
through  Trecate  and  S.  Martino,  at  tho 
W.   extremity  of  the  fine   bridge   of 
Buffalora  or  Ponte  Nuovo. 

On  the  morning  of  the  4th  of  June 
took  place  the  combined  movements 
from  Turbigo  on  the  N.,  and  from  San 
Martino  on  the  S.,  which  ended  after 
a  long  day's  contest  in  the  total  defeat 


Piedmont. 


Boide  2. — Battle  of  Magenta, 


43 


of  the  Austrians, — the   battle  which 
hears  the  name  of  Magenta,  although 
it  might  equally  bear  that  of  Buffalora. 
The    plan     of   Napoleon    was,    that 
Greneral    M*Mahon    should    adrance 
from   Turbigo  by  way  of  Buffalora, 
the    Emperor    at    the   head    of    the 
Imperial    guard   crossing  the  Ticino 
by  the  Ponte  Nuovo,  parallel  to  the 
line  of  railway,  both  armies  to  form 
a  junction  at  Magenta.     This   plan 
was  pimctuaUy  followed ;    M*Mahon 
engaging  the  Austrians  at  Buffalora, 
where    they    were    strongly    posted. 
About   2   o'clock  M'Mahon  was  en- 
gaged  at  Buffalora ;   on  hearing   the 
cannon    from    which,    the    Emperor 
ordered  the  bridge  over  the  Ticino  to 
be  passed,  beyond  which  the  Imperial 
guard,  under  the  orders  of  Marshal 
Baraguay  d'Hilliers,  met  with  an  obsti- 
nate resistance,  and  were  more  than 
once  obliged  to  fall  back,  during  which 
the  brave  General  Cler,  commanding 
the  attacking  force,  was  killed.     The 
contest  here  lasted  several  hours,  with 
very  doubtful  issue,  until  M*Mahon, 
haying  driven  back  the  right  wing  of 
the  Austrians  by  his  flank  movement 
on  Buffalora,  advanced  on  Magenta. 
•  About  6  o'clock  the  Austrians  occu- 
pied   the   village,    defending  it  most 
obstinately  for  2  hours    against  the 
combined  forces  of  M*Mahon,  of  Can- 
robert,  and    of  the  Imperial  guard, 
which,  after  a  most  sanguinary  conflict, 
had  succeeded  in  making  its  way  from 
the  Ponte  Nuovo  ;  each  house  being 
defended  and  stormed  as  a  fortress. 
Here  more  than  10,000  men  were  put 
hors   de  -combat,  and  Q-eneral  Espi- 
nasse,  commanding  the  Imperial  guard, 
and  one  of  the  bravest  officers  in  the 
French    army,   was    killed.      It    was 
not    until   8^    P.M.    that    the    firing 
ceased,  by  the  arrival  of  the  reserves 
of  JN'iel's  and  Canrobert's  divisions,  the 
Austrians  retreating  on*Rebecco  with 
the    intention  of   recommencing   the 
contest  on  the  morrow.     During  the 
long  and  arduous  contest  along  the 
line,  from  the  Ponte  Nuovo  to  Magenta, 
Nax>oleon  was  constantly  in  the  midst 
of  the  fight ;  his  principal  station  being 


at  the  top  of  one  of  the  large  buildings 
at  the  hamlet  of  Ponte  di  Magenta, 
close  to  the  bridge  which  crosses  the 
canal  or  NavigUo  about  half-way  be- 
tween the  Ticino  and  Magenta.  The 
losses  in  this  sanguinary  conflict  were 
very  great  on  both  sides  j  according  to 
the  French  bulletins,  theirs  amoimting 
to  3700  killed  and  735  prisoners,  and 
those  of  the  Austrians  to  13,000  killed 
and  wounded  and  7000  prisoners,  out  of 
55,000  engaged  on  one  side  and  75,000 
on  the  other.  The  result  was  that 
the  Austrians,  being  demorahzed,  and 
the  corps  of  their  right  wing  so  much 
cut  up  by  M'Mahon's  flank  movement, 
instead  of  attacking  on  the  mori'ow, 
retreated  in  a  southerly  direction 
towards  Abbiategrasso  and  the  Adda, 
leaving  the  road  to  Milan  open  to 
the  Emperor  and  his  Royal  aUy. 

The  result  of  this  memorable  cam- 
paign is  well  told  in  the  closing  para- 
graph of  the  Imperial  bulletin,  dated 
from  S.  Martino  the  day  after  the  bat- 
tle of  Magenta. 

"  In  5  days  after  its  departure  from 
Alexandria  the  AlUed  army  have 
fought  3  actions,  gained  a  great  battle, 
cleared  Piedmont  of  the  Austrians, 
and  opened  the  gates  of  Milan.  Since 
the  combat  of  Montebello  the  Austrian 
army  has  lost  25,000  men  in  kiUed  and 
wounded,  10,000  prisoners,  and  17 
guns" — although  there  may  be  some 
exaggeration  in  the  number  of  the  ca- 
sualties. 

By  military  men  Marshal  GHulay's 
tactics  have  been  much  blamed,  for 
allowing  the  AlHes  to  cross  the  Ti- 
cino almost  without  firing  a  shot,  and 
for  giving  battle  on  his  own  instead 
of  on  the  enemy's  ground ;  but  the 
fact  appears  to  be  that  he  was  quite 
unprepared  for  Napoleon's  sudden 
change  from  the  bank  of  the  Po 
to  that  of  Ticino,  and  unable  to  bring 
up  in  time  his  reserves  from  the 
vicinity  of  Pavia  and  the  Oltro  Po 
Pavese  to  oppose  the  French  attack  in 
this  new  position.  Giulay  was  soon 
relieved  of  his  command,  almost  with 
disgrace,  and  M'Mahon,  to  whose  able 
strategy  this  victory  was  in  a   great 


44 


Botde  3. — Turin  to  Milan,  hy  Casak. 


Sect.  I. 


measure  due,  created  almost  on  the 
battle-field  Marshal  of  France  and  Duke 
of  Magenta. 

Leaving  Magenta,  the  rlwy.  and 
post-road  diverge. 

4  m.  Vettuone  Stat.,  leaving  which 
we  pass  on  the  rt.  where  Desiderius, 
the  King  of  the  Lombards,  had  a  villa. 

6  m.  Rho  Stat,  before  reaching 
which  the  river  Olona  is  crossed,  and 
afterwards  the  Lura,  near  where  they 
join.  Rho  is  a  considerable  village  in 
a  productive  district;  it  has  a  large 
church  from  the  designs  of  Pellegrini. 

5  m.  Musocco  Stat.  Here  the  rly. 
crosses  the  carriage-road  from  Yarese, 
Saronno,  and  Bollate. 

5  m.  Milan  Stat.  The  general  sta- 
tion for  all  the  hnes  of  rly.  divergiDg 
from  Milan  is  outside  the  newly  opened 
Porta  del  Principe  Umberto  on  the  N. 
side  of  the  city  :  here  omnibuses  from 
the  different  hotels  and  flys  will  be 
found  waiting  on  the  arrival  of  every 
train. 

Hotels.  Hdtel  de  la  Yille,  kept  by 
Baur ;  H6tel  Royal,  by  Bruschetti ;  and 
H6tel  Cavour,  nearest  to  the  Rlwy. 
Stat,  (new)  :  aU  three  excellent,  with 
landlords  and  servants  who  speak 
Enghsh. 

MiLAir  (see  Rte.  21). 


ROUTE  3. 

TXTEIN  TO  MILAN,  BY  CASALE,  MOBTABA, 
AND  VIGETANO. 

This  road  follows  the  rt.  bank  of  the 
Po  through  a  rich  alluvial  country, 
having  on  the  rt.  hand  the  hilly  region 
of  the  Montferrat,  and  on  the  other  the 
plain  extending  to  the  foot  of  the  Alps. 
There  are  no  post  relays  upon  it.  The 
Rly.  to  VerceUi,  and  the  branch  from 
the  latter  to  Casale,  cause  this  route 
to  be  now  seldom  followed. 

11  kil.  Settimo  Stat. 

12  kil.  Chivasso  Stat, 
Verolengo,  containing  5000  Inhab. 


Half-way  before  reaching  here  the  old 
post-road  to  Vercelli  branches  off  on 
thel. 

Near  this  place,  but  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  Po,  is  Monteu  Po,  occupying 
the  site  of  the  Roman  station  of  Indus' 
tria.  This  city,  mentioned  by  Pliny 
and  other  ancient  writers,  had  been  in  a 
manner  lost.  Many  antiquaries  sup- 
posed that  Casale  had  risen  upon  its 
ruins  ;  but  in  1744  the  discovery  of  re- 
mains in  this  neighbourhood,  and  some 
fragments  of  inscriptions,  led  to  further 
excavations.  The  result  was,  as  has  been 
before  mentioned,  the  discovery  of  many 
of  the  finest  objects  in  the  Museum  of 
Turin.  The  excavations  have  not  been 
recently  prosecuted  with  much  vigour. 

21  kil.  Crescentino,  beyond  the  junc- 
tion of  the  Dora  Baltea  with  the  Po, 
4300  Inhab.,  in  the  midst  of  a  marshy 
territory.  Its  plan  indicates  a  Roman 
station  j  and  some  remains  discovered 
in  the  last  centy.  seem  to  confirm  this 
supposition.  The  principal  church,  the 
Assunta,  is  ancient,  but  has  been  re- 
cently decorated  and  altered.  It  con- 
tains some  paintings  by  Moncalvo. 

Beyond  the  Po,  opposite  to  Crescen- 
tino, but  not  in  the  road,  rises  Verrua, 
formerly  strongly  fortified,  but  now 
dismantled.  Situated  upon  an  abrupt 
and  insulated  hill,  in  a  most  defen- 
sible position :  it  opposed  an  obstinate 
resistance  to  the  Emperor  Frederick 
II.  In  more  recent  times  (1704)  the 
Due  de  Yenddme  attacked  it  without 
success.  The  defences  were  destroyed 
by  the  French  during  their  first  occu- 
pation of  Piedmont. 

The  road  continues  skirted  by  the 
Po,  passing  through  a  rich  but  un- 
healthy country,  full  of  swamps,  and 
constantly  liable  to  inundations.  The 
marshy  meadows  feed  abundance  of 
cattle,  and  hence  the  cultivation  of  rice 
is  not  so  much  resorted  to  here  as  far- 
ther on. 

18  kil.  Trim,  7000  Inhab.  This  place 
was  formerly  much  better  peopled  j  its 
decrease  is  attributed  to  the  insalubrity 
of  the  country.  Q-reat  herds  of  swine 
are  reared  in  the  marshes,  and  the  hams 
of  Trino  are  celebrated  throughout  Pied- 


Piedmont. 


Houte  3. — Casde, 


45 


mont.  Trino  was  the  birthplace  of  Ber- 
nardino G-ioleto,  a  celebrated  printer, 
who  established  himself  at  Venice  in 
1487,  and  who  became  the  father  of  a 
long  line  of  typographers.  Trino  origin- 
ally belonged  to  Vercelli ;  and  was  the 
constant  object  of  contention  between 
it  and  its  dangerous  neighbours  the 
marquises  of  Montferrat.  When  Carlo 
Emanuele  I.  asserted  his  claims  to  the 
marquisate,  he  laid  siege  to  and  took  it, 
assisted  by  his  two  sons  Victor  Amedeus 
and  Francesco  Tomaso.  This  achieve- 
ment was  commemorated  by  the  fol- 
lowing jingling  epigram : — 

"Trina  dies  Trinum  trino  sub  principe  cepit. 
Qaid  minim?  numqaid  Marsibi  trimis  erat." 

The  road  follows  the  1.  bank  of  the 
Po,  which  it  crosses  by  a  suspension 
bridge  before  entering 

20  kil.  Casale,  an  important  city, 
21,000  Inhab.,  the  capital  of  the  ancient 
marquisate  of  Montferrat.  Inlater  times 
it  was  a  position  exceedingly  contested ; 
and  the  citadel,  founded  in.  1590  by 
Duke  Vicenzo,  was  one  of  the  strongest 
places  in  Italy.  The  castle  or  palace 
is  yet  standing  :  it  was  embellished  by 
the  Gk)nzaga8.  Many  Roman  remains 
have  been  found  here ;  amongst  others, 
coins  of  the  earliest  ages  of  the  republic. 
The  fortifications  of  Casale  have  been 
recently  greatly  increased  and  strength- 
ened, and,  with  Alessandria  and  Genoa, 
it  is  now  one  of  the  great  military 
strongholds  of  the  kingdom  of  North- 
em  Italy  ;  it  forms  as  it  were  the  fron- 
tier barrier  on  the  side  of  Lombardy. 

The  Cathedral  or  Dvtomo  is  supposed 
to  have  been  founded  by  Liutprand, 
Xing  of  the  Lombards,  in  742 ; 
and  the  archives  of  the  chapter  con- 
tain a  singular  muniment,  a  charter 
engraved  upon  a  tablet  of  lead,  sup- 
posed to  confirm  this  opinion.  The 
cathedral,  by  whomsoever  founded,  is 
of  high  antiquity  as  a  Lombard  build- 
ing ;  but  the  repairs  and  decorations  in 
1706  effaced  many  of  its  original  fea- 
tures. It  contains  some  good  paintings : 
the  best  is  the  Baptism  of  our  Lord  by 
Qauden^io  FerraH^  a  portion  of  a  larger 
picture  which  was  destroyed  by  fire. 


The  ohapel  of  Saint  Evasius  has  been 
recently  decorated  with  much  splen- 
dour; the  shrine  is  of  silver.  In 
the  sacristy  (though  the  French  re- 
moved a  large  portion  of  its  contents) 
are  still  some  very  curious  specimens 
of  art.  A  cross  taken  from  the  in- 
habitants of  Alessandria,  covered  with 
silver  plates  set  with  gems.  Another 
of  exceedingly  rich  workmanship  in 
enamel,  given  by  Cardinal  Theodore 
Palseologus.  A  statue  by  Bernini, 
forming  part  of  a  group  of  the  Spasimo, 
from  the  suppressed  convent  of  Santa 
Chiara.  The  altar,  with  alto-rilievos, 
was  formerly  in  the  chapel  of  Sant* 
Evasio.  Amongst  the  archives,  besides 
Liutprand's  charter-tablet,  are  some 
valuable  manuscripts  of  the  10th  centy., 
and  an  ancient  sacrificial  vase  in  silver 
representing  the  Triumph  of  Bacchus. 
Recent  restorations  are  said  to  have 
swept  away  much  of  interest  in  this 
church. 

The  church  of  San  Domenico  is  one 
of  the  last  monuments  of  the  Palseo- 
logi,  having  been  begun  by  them 
in  1469,  and  consecrated  in  1513. 
The  stags  which  form  a  part  of  their 
airmorial  bearings,  and  wliich  orna- 
mented the  facade,  have  been  re- 
moved ;  but  the  memory  of  this  fa- 
mily is  preserved  by  the  tomb  erected 
by  the  king  of  Sardinia  in  1835,  and 
in  which  the  remains  of  several  of  its 
princes  have  been  deposited.  The 
building  is  supposed  to  be  after  the 
designs  of  Bramantino,  and  from 
the  elegance  of  its  proportions  and 
the  richness  of  its  ornaments,  espe- 
cially of  the  facade,  it  may  rank 
among  the  finest  of  the  sacred  edifices 
in  this  country.  It  contains  paint- 
ings by  Pompeo  Battoni  and  Mon- 
calvo.  Here  is  the  fine  Mausoleum  of 
Benvenuto  di  San  Giorgio,  who  died  in 
1527.  This  individual  wrote  an  excel- 
lent chronicle  of  Montferrat,  of  much 
importance  also  in  the  general  history 
of  Italy ;  he  was  a  knight  of  Malta, 
and  he  is  represented  upon  his  tomb  in 
the  habit  of  his  order.  Quaint  allego- 
rical bas-reliefs  adorn  other  portions 
of  it  5  it  is  surmounted  by  a  canopy  j 


46 


lioute  4. — Tltrin  to  Asti, 


Sect.  I. 


and  the  style  of  the  whole  is  interest- 
ing, as  being  the  parent  of  that  which 
prevailed  in  England  in  the  days  of 
Elizabeth. 

Sanf  Hario  enjoys  the  reputation  of 
having  been  once  a  pagan  temple.  It 
is  said  to  have  been  consecrated  by  St. 
Hilary  in  the  4th  centy.  It  did  contain 
many  good  paintings  of  early  date :  the 
best  have  been. removed  to  Turin,  but 
some  curious  specimens  still  remain. 

Many  of  the  meditcval  civil  edifices 
of  Casale  are  remarkable.  The  old 
Torre  del  ffrand^  Orologio  was  built 
before  the  year  1000.  It  was  altered 
in  1510  by  William  IV.,  Marquis  of 
Montferrat,  whose  arms  are  cast  upon 
the  great  bell.  The  JPalazzo  delta 
CiUa.  was  originally  the  property  of 
the  noble  family  of  Blandrate.  Having 
been  confiscated  in  1535,  it  was  made 
over  to  the  municipal  body.  It  is 
attributed  to  Bramante ;  and  the  por- 
tal and  porticoes  are  not  unworthy  of 
his  reputation.  The  paintings  which 
it  contained  hav0  been  removed,  but 
some  frescoes  yet  ornament  the  roof 
and  waUs.  Palazzo  Dela/oalle  con- 
tains some  firescocs  attributed  to  Oiulio 
Romano.  In  the  Palazzo  Callori  is  a 
portrait  of  Gonzaga,  abbot  of  Sanf 
Andrea,  at  Mantua,  by  Titian. 

The  central  position  of  Casale  has 
always  given  it  importance  as  a  mili- 
tary position,  and  this- has  been  turned 
to  good  account  by  the  Italian  govern- 
ment in  adding  greatly  to  its  defences. 
Rlwys.  branch  from  it  to  VerceUi, 
Yalenza,  and  Alessandria ;  and  a  good 
road  to  Mortara  and  Vigevano  by  Fras- 
sinetto,  near  which  it  crosses  the  Sesia, 
passing  through  Ctf»<^ea,  where  there  are 
some  frescoes  in  the  ch.  of  Sta.  M^a, 
by  Lanini ;  and  Cozzo,  said  to  liave  been 
founded  by  king  Cottius,  across  the 
rich  country  of  the  Lomellina,  bordering 
on  the  Sesia  and  Agogna. 

Rlwy.  projected  from  Casale  to  Mor- 
tara across  the  plain  of  La  Lomellina. 

18  kil.  Mortara,  4070  Inhab. ;  the 
chief  town  of  a  district  called  the  Lo- 
mellina. It  is  said  to  have  derived  its 
name  from  its  unhealtliiness — Mortis 
ara,  the  altar  of  death.    According  to 


another  tradition,  it  derives  its  funereal 
appellation  from  the  slaughter  of  the 
Lombards,  who  were  here  defeated  by 
Charlemagne,  A.D.  774.  The  whole 
district  is  intersected  by  rivers,  water- 
courses, and  canals ;  and  the  rice-plan- 
tations add  to  the  insalubrity  of  the 
marsh-lands  around. 

The  Rly.  is  open  from  Mortara  to 

Vigevano,  12  kU.,  14,000  Inhab. ;  a 
place  of  considerable  trade,  but  not 
otherwise  remarkable.  The  ancient 
castle  of  the  Sforzas  was  altered  in  1492 
by  Bramante ;  and  having  been  formed 
into  a  palace,  it  is  now  employed  as  a 
barrack.  The  cathedral  is  a  good 
building;  it  has  recently  been  re- 
paired and  decorated.  Public  convey- 
ances for  Milan  start  on  the  arrival 
of  each  Bly.  train,  employing  3J  to  4 
hrs. 

A  rly.  is  projected  from  Vigevano  to 
Milan,  by  Abbiategrasso. 

Cross  the  Ticino  2  m.  farther  on  and 
enter  Lombardy. 

Ahhiategrasso  (first  Lombard  sta- 
tion), a  considerable  borgo  near  the 
Naviglio  Grande.  It  contains  a  large 
establishment  in  the  nature  of  an  in- 
firmary, a  dependent  of  the  great  hos- 
pital of  Milan. 

Gaggiano. 

Corsico.  Much  of  the  cheese  ex- 
ported imder  the  name  of  Parmesan, 
but  known  in  the  country  by  the  name 
of  formaggio  di  grana,  is  made  in  this 
neighbourhood. 

Milan.     (Boute  21.) 


ROUTE  4. 

TTJEIN  TO  ASTI,  BY  CHIEEI. 

This  is  a  good  road  of  about  40  nx . 
Chieri  is  about  17  m.  from  Turin. 

La  Madonna  del  Pilone.  From  this 
point  the  road  ascends  the  Collina, 
S.  of  the  Supei^a,  to 

Pino,  on  the  highest  part  of  the 
range,  whence  it  descends  for  4  m.  to 


Piedmont. 


Moute  5. — Turin  to  Genoa, 


47 


Chieri  (the  anciefnt  Caarea  Pot€nHa\ 

which  contains  about   12,000  Inhab. 

The  cb.  of  Santa  MaHa  delta  Seala 
is  one  of  the  largest  GK>thio  buildings 
in  Piedmont.  It  was  erected  in  1405. 
Annexed  to  it  is  a  very  ancient  bap- 
tistery, which,  as  usual,  is  said  to  have 
been  a  pagan  temple. 

The  Church  of  St.  DominieOy  built  in 
1260,  has  some  good  paintings  by 
Moncalvo.  4-  convent  is  attached 
to  it.  It  once  contained  a  smgular 
inmate.  In  the  month  of  October, 
1664,  the  knights  of  Malta  captmred  a 
Turkish  galley,  on  board  of  which  was 
one  of  the  sultanas  of  Ibrahim,  the  then 
reigning  Padishah,  with  her  son,  the 
young  Osman.  The  boy  was  educated 
at  Bome ;  but  it  was  judged  expedient 
to  send  him  to  France,  when,  chancing 
to  stop  at  Turin,  he  determined  to  be- 
come a  Dominican  friar,  and  he  entered 
this  convent,  where  he  professed  under 
the  name  of  Padre  Domenico  Ottoman 
di  San  Tomaso.  Some  members  of  the 
BrogUa  family,  and  amongst  them 
Francesco  Broglia,  who  served  under 
Louis  XIV.,  ancestor  of  the  family  of 
de  Broglie  in  France,  are  buried  in 
this  church.  The  de  Broglies  came 
originally  irom  this  neighbourhood. 

The  cupola  of  the  Cistercian  monas- 
tery is  considered  one  of  the  best  works 
of  Juvara. 

Chieri  is  one  of  the  most  ancient 
manufactiuing  towns  in  Europe.  The 
manufactories  of  fustians  and  cotton 
staffs  date  from  1422,  and  upwards  of 
100,000  pieces  were  annually  made  to- 
waixU  the  middle  of  the  15th  century. 
The  manufactories  still  exist,  and  also 
some  silk- works. 

Miva  di  Chieriy  to  the  Stat,  of  Vat- 
decTdeaay  on  the  railway  to  Asti,  or  by 
the  road  to  T^llanova. 

Asti.     (Sec  Kt-e.  5.) 


ROUTE  5. 


TUBIK  TO 

GKyOA, 

BY  ASTI,  AT.T?SSAN- 

DEIA,  AND  NOVI— BAIL. 

166  kil., 

103J  m. 

KIL. 

KIL. 

From  Turin  to 

Alessaktdria  .    91 

Moncalieri 

.     .        8 

Frugarolo    .    .  loi 

Trofarello 

.     .     13 

Novl  ....  113 

Camblano 

.     .     U 

Serravalle    .    .121 

Pesstone . 

.    .     22 

Ai-quata .    .     .125 

Villa  nova 

.     .     30 

Isoladl  Cantone  134 

Vlllafranca 

.     .     42 

Ronco      .    .    .139 

Baidichieri 

.     .     A1 

Busalla  .    .    .144 

)    .     50 

Pontedecimo    .  154 

ASTI    .      .      . 

.     57 

Bolzanetto  .    .158 

Annone  .    . 

.     67 

Rlvarolo      .    .161 

Cerro  .    .    . 

.    .     71 

San  Pier  d'Arenal63 

Fellzzano     . 

.    77 

Genoa    .    .    .166 

Solero     .    . 

.    83 

The  railway  from  Turin  to  Genoa  was 
opened  Dec.  1853.  Trains  start  5  times 
a  day  for  Genoa,  performing  the  journey 
in  from  4  h.  to  5  h.  45  min. ;  the 
fares  are  moderate :  1st  class  18f.  80c. 
(14j.  7^.)  ;  2nd,  12f.  80c.  (10*.  3<i.)  j 
3rd,  9f.  45c.  (7*.  7ci.)  No  allowance  pi 
free  weight  of  luggage  is  made,  so  that 
eyeiy  pound  is  charged  for.  The  tra- 
veller may,  howeyer,  take  a  good-sized 
parcel  or  bag  with  him  in  the  carriage. 

The  station  in  Turin  is  at  the  extre- 
mity of  the  Strada  Nuova.  The  Ely. 
runs  parallel  to  the  old  post-road  in 
a  great  portion  of  its  extent  from  Turin 
to  Genoa. 

Leaving  Turin,  the  line  follows  the  1. 
bank  of  the  Fo  and  crosses  it  before 
reaching 

8  kil.  Moncalieri  Stat.,  situated 
on  the  dechvity  of  the  southern  ex- 
tremity of  the  range  of  the  CoUina. 
The  palace,  which  crowns  the  liill 
above  the  town,  was  built  by  Vit- 
torio  Amedeo  1.,  on  the  sit«  of  a  far 
older  building,  dating  from  the  days  of 
Jolanda :  it  is  fine  and  commanding  from 
every  point  of  view.  This  palace  was  the 
last  prison  ofVittorio  Amedeo  II.;  here 
he  died  after  his  removal  from  Eivoli. 
The  gallery  contains  a  long  succession 
of  family  portraits,  and  also  a  curious 
series  representing  the  hunting  parties 


I 


48 


JRouie  5.— FtZtonovo — Astu 


Sect.  1. 


of  Carlo  Emaauele  11.  The  influence 
of  French  costume  is  singularly  marked 
in  the  fashions  of  the  court :  with  re- 
spect to  the  countenances,  the  descend- 
ants of  Humbert  aux  blanches  mains^ 
the  founder  (or  nearly  so)  of  the  family, 
may  be  said  to  be  generally  a  liandsome 
race.  The  Httle  town  has  some  vestiges 
of  antiquity  in  its  collegiate  church. 
The  name  of  the  place  is  said  to  be 
derived  from  Mont  Caillier,  the  hill  of 
quails,  in  the  provincial  language ;  but 
these  birds  are  not  more  common  here 
than  in  other  parts  of  the  range. 
Ariosto  has  made  MoncaUeri  the  seat 
of  one  of  the  Paladins  of  Charlemagne, 
— slain,  when  sleeping,  by  Clorinda : — 

'*  Dopo  essi  Palidon  da  Moncalieri 
Che  sicuTo  donnia  tn.  due  destrieri." 

The  fair  of  Moncalieri  is  held  on  the 
29th  of  October,  and  lasts  for  a  week. 
It  is  one  of  the  greatest  cattle-markets 
of  Piedmont ;  but  it  is  also  a  pleasure 
fair,  and  a  favourite  hoUday-time  with 
both  the  country  folks  and  the  citizens. 
The  road  onwards  is  varied  by  beauti- 
ful undulations :  mulberry-trees  abound 
in  the  fields.  On  the  W.  the  noble 
mass  of  the  Monte  Viso  towers  above 
the  rest  of  the  alpine  range.  On  the 
S.E.  the  distant  Apennines,  or  rather 
the  mountains  which,  connecting  Alps 
and  Apennines,  may  be  said  to  belong 
to  both,  are  seen  blue  and  clear  in  the 
extreme  distance. 

5  kU.  Trofarello  Stat.  Here  the  Rly. 
to  Savigliano  and  Cuneo  branches  off  on 
the  rt. ;  the  road  from  here  to  the  next 
stat.  runs  along  the  base  of  the  Collina, 
studded  with  villas  and  fann-houses. 

4  kil.  Cambiano  Stat.  The  village  of 
Cambiano,  on  a  gentle  rise,  about  ^  m. 
on  the  1.  Here  the  line  separates 
from  the  post-road,  running  through 
the  plain  of  Riva  Chieri  and  Poirino, 
and  crossing  several  streams  to 

5  kil.  Pessione  Stat. 

ValdecTiiesay  2  mUes  from  Villa- 
nova,  and  an  equal  distance  from  Biva 
di  Chieri  (Rte.  4).  Valdechiesa  was 
founded  in  1248  by  the  inhabitants  of 
several  townships  which  had  been  de- 


Btroyed  hy'the  citixenfl  of  A^ti  and  other 
more  powerful  places.  The  road  from 
Turin  to  Asti,  by  Chieri  (Bte.  4),  here 
crosses  the  railway.  The  view  of  the 
snowy  Alps  is  very  fine  fr^>m  this  part 
'  of  the  route,  extending  from  Monte  Viso 
to  Monte  Rosa ;  the  declivities  of  the 
hills  in  the  foreground  are  covered 
with  villas  and  farms.  Beyond  the 
stat.  the  country  becomes  hilly  to 

8  kil.  Villanova  iS^to^.,  situated  on  the 
highest  part  of  the  plain  that  separates 
the  waters  flowing  towards  thePo  on  the 
one  side,  and  the  Tanaro  on  the  E. ; 
The  country  hitherto  passed  through 
is  chiefly  laid  out  in  corn-fields,  with 
few  mulberry  or  vine  plantations  j  the 
view  of  Monte  Viso  is  very  fine  from 
Dusino.  The  Bly.  descends  rapidly 
through  deep  cuttings  to  Villa  Franca^ 
the  difference  of  level  being  350  fb. 
The  geologist  will  here  find  himself  in 
the  midst  of  the  tertiary  subapennine 
formation,  abounding  in  marine  sheUs ; 
several  remains  of  large  fossil  mam- 
malia have  been  found  here,  near  Bal- 
dechieri,  in  the  Val  d' Andona,  &c.  In 
this  neighbourhood  is  produced  much  of 
the  wine  commonly  called  vino  cCAsti^ 
the  most  drinkable  of  Piedmont.  The 
vineyards  are  principally  upon  the  un- 
dulating hills ;  and  other  crops  are 
grown  amongst  the  vines. 

12  kil.  VUlafranca  Stat, 

6  kil.  Baldichieri  Stat. 

8  kil.  San  DamianOy  near  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Triversa  and  Borbore 
torrents,  in  the  same  valley.  Vines 
become  more  abundant  here,  on  the 
declivities  of  the  hills. 

7  kil.  Asti  Stat. 

Asti  (Albergo  Reale;  indifferent). 
Population  24,500.  An  ancient  city 
of  some  celebrity  (Hasta  Pompeija), 
situated  near  the  confluence  of  the 
Borbore  and  Tanaro,  surrounded  by 
fertile  and  picturesque  hills.  The 
original  Duomo  fell  down  in  1323,  and 
the  present  ample  Gothic  edifice  was 
begun  shortly  afterwards,  and  com- 
pleted about  1348.  It  is  a  fine  and 
venerable  building,  filled  with  much 
painting,   which  imfortunately  begins 


Piedmont.  - 


Boitte  6. — Asii — Anone, 


49 


to  suffer  by  decay.  The  choir  was 
painted  by  Carloniy — a  Nativity  is 
said  to  be  hj  Bassano  ;  but  its  autho- 
rity may  be  doubted.  In  a  chapel  to 
the  ].  of  the  high  altar  is  an  ancient 
painting,  Q^rman  or  Flemish,  repre- 
senting the  Nativity.  This  picture  was 
much  admired  by  Gaudenzio  Ferrari, 
who  has  made  a  careful  copy  of  it.  By 
Moncalvo  is  a  Resurrection :  the  ter- 
ror of  the  soldiers  is  expressed  with 
ability. 

Ch,  of  San  Secondo.  Also  a  fine 
Gothic  building.  It  is  a  collegiate 
church ;  and  here  abo  is  a  good  ancient 
Flemish  painting,  representing  the  Pu- 
rification; and  another,  in  the  same 
style,  in  the  church  of  Sta,  Maria 
Nuova, 

Ch,  of  San  JPietro  in  Concava,  pro- 
bably an  ancient  baptistery  ;  it  has,  as 
usual,  the  perplexing  appearance  of 
classical  antiquity.  It  is  supposed,  but 
without  any  reason,  to  have  been  a 
temple  of  Diana. 

The  Seminaty  is  a  fine  building,  by 
Count  Alfieri,  the  cousin  of  the  poet. 
It  is  rich  and  picturesque  in  efiiect,  and 
contains  a  good  library. 

In  the  JPalazzo  Alfieri^  abo  built  by 
the  Count,  is  shown  the  room  where 
Yittorio  Alfieri  was  bom,  January  17th, 
1749 :  his  portrait,  and  the  following 
autograph  addressed  to  his  sister,  de- 
corate the  apartment. 

**  Oggi  ha  sei  liutri,  apjpiS  del  coUe  ameno 
Che  al  Tanaro  tardiasimo  sovrasta, 
Dove  Pompeo  piant6  sua  nobil  asta, 
L'  aure  pnme  lo  bevea  del  dl  sereno. 
Nato  e  ereaciuto  a  rio  servag^gio  in  aeno, 
Pur  dire  oaai ;  sennr,  V  alma  mi  guaata ; 
Loco,  ove  solo  vn  contra  tutti  basta, 
Fatria  non  m*  e  benchd  natio  terreno. 
Altre  leggi,  altro  eielo,  infta  sdtra  gente 
Mi  dian  acarso,  ma  libero  rioetto, 
Ov'  io  penaare  e  dir  poaaa  altamente. 
Eaci  dunque,  o  timore,  eaci  dal  petto 
Mio,  che  attriatagli  gia  ai  langamente ; 
Meeo  albogar  non  dei  aotto  omil  tetto." 

San.  zxxvii. 

The  churches  of  the  Certosa  and  San 
JBartolommeOf  outside  the  town,  were 
mined  b;  the  French.  In  both  are  some 
remains  of  good  paintings :  about  half 

iT.  Jifa^— 1866. 


the  other  churches  in  and  about  Asti 
were  destroyed. 

The  AsUgianOy  or  territory  about 
Asti,  contains  sereral  mineral  and  ther- 
lofX  springs.  At  Castel  Alfieri  are 
two  wells,  which,  until  the  earthquake 
of  Lisbon,  were  of  pure  water. 
Afterwards  they  became  sulphureted^ 
and  wholly  unfit  for  domestic  pur- 
poses, and  continued  so  until  1807) 
when,  a  sharp  earthquake  having 
been  felt  at  Pinerolo,  but  which  did  not 
extend  to  this  province,  the  waters  be- 
came sweet  again.  This  part  of  the 
country  abounds  with  fossil  organic 
remains.  They  are  most  nimierous  in 
the  Yal  d'  Andona,  and  all  the  way  from 
Dusino,  about  Bochetta  and  Castel 
Nuovo. 

There  is  a  good  road  from  Asti  to 
Acqui,  passing  over  a  hiUy  region  that 
will  interest  the  geologist,  through 
Costifflio,  and  Nizza  di  Monferrato  f 
Bly.  in  progress  from  Asti  to  Ca- 
sale. 

Leaving  Asti,  the  railway  follows  the 
valley  of  the  Tanaro  to 

10  kil.  Anone  (Stat),  i.  e.  ad  Nbnam  ; 
the  ninth  mile  station  from  Asti  on  the 
banks  of  the  Tanaro ;  it  is  imhealthy, 
and  the  inhabitants  are  a  good  deal 
afi'ected  with  the  disease  called  Fella* 
gra,  common  throughout  Lombardy. 
Poor  and  unwholesome  food,  and 
particularly  feeding  on  Indian  com, 
IS  supposed  to  be  the  principal  cause 
of  it. 

4  kil.  Cerro  Stat.  The  village  is  on  a 
gentle  rising  on  the  1. ;  here  the  Plain 
of  the  Tanaro  opens,  Felizzano  being 
upon  one  of  the  last  spurs  of  the  Astesan 
hills. 

6  kil.  Felizzano  (Stat)  ;  burnt  three 
times  in  the  17th  century,  besides  sus- 
taining many  previous  destructions. 
The  country  around  is  frequently  in- 
undated by  the  Tanaro. 


50 


Boute  B.^-AJessandria. 


C)GCv«  It 


6  kU.  Solero.  Stat,  In  tlie  plain  of 
the  Tanaro. 

8  kil.  Alessandria  Junction  Stat. 
(The  Albergo  Nuovo,  late  Albergo 
Beale,  is  the  best  hotel:  a  good  cha- 
racter i^  also  giren  to  the  Albergo 
-  d*  Italia':  the  JQbergo  dell*  Universo.) 
Alessandria  is  58  m.  from  Turin.  Its 
population  is  19,000,  and,  with  the 
suburbs,  about  40,000.  This  city  stands 
between  the  Tanaro  and  the  Bormida, 
near  their  junction,  and  is  the  most 
remarkable  monument  of  the  great 
Lombard  league.  This  alliance,  so  pow- 
erful, so  memorable,  and  jet  so  ineffec- 
tual for  the  preservation  of  the  national 
liberties,  began  in  1164  by  the  con- 
federacy of  Verona,  Vicenza,  Padua,  and 
Treyiso,  and  included  in  1167,  besides 
these  four  cities,  Ferrara,  Brescia,  Ber- 

Smo,  Cremona,  Lodi,  Parma,  Piacenza^ 
odena,  Bologna,  Novara,  Vercelli, 
Oomo,  Venice,  and,  lastly,  Milan, ;  — all 
bound  by  solemn  oath  and  cov.enant  to 
defend  tneir  mutual  rights  and  privi- 
leges. The  most  powerful  aUies  and 
willing  subjects  of  the  Emperor  Fre- 
derick were  the  citizens  of  Pavia  and  the 
Marquis  of  Montferrat ;  and  to  keep 
these  in  check,  the  cities  of  the  League 
determined  to  erect  a  new  city,  at  once 
a  fortress  for  their  defence  and  a  me- 
morial of  their  Uberties. 

On  the  confines  of  the  marquisate  of 
Montferrat  and  the  Pavezano,  or  coun- 
try of  Pavia,  was  a  small  castle  called 
Bobereto ;  this  was  chosen  as  the  site 
of  the  new  city.  The  ground  was 
carefully  surveyed  by  engineers,  for 
military  architectiu^  had  already  be- 
come a  study  among  the  Italians, 
and  the  expanse  of  the  country  and 
the  course  of  the  streams,  not  deep, 
but  frequently  inundating  the  adjoin- 
ing plains,  appeared  excellently  adapt- 
ed for  defence  against  the  G-erman 
cavalry.  The  astrologer  stood  by  with 
his  astrolabe,  and  the  first  stone  was 
laid  at  the  propitious  moment.  The 
blessing  of  the  Pontiff  was  asked  and 
obtained ;  and  in  a  general  congress  of 
the  League  it  was  determined  that  the 
new  city  should  be  called  Alessandria, 


in  honour  of  Pope  Alexftnder  III.,  the 
protector  of  the  Guelfs,  and  the  head 
of  Catholic  Christendom.  The  build- 
ing of  the  city  was  more  peculiarly  in- 
trusted to  the  Milanese,  the  Cremonese, 
and  the  Placentines :  Qenoa  sent  large 
sums  of  money.  So  earnestly  did  they 
labour,  that  before  the  close  of  the  year 
the  city  was  completed.  The  G-hibel- 
lines  scornfully  called  it  **  AlesBandria 
della  PagUa,"  either  in  allusion  to  the 
materials  of  the  newly  erected  build- 
ings, earth  mixed  with  chopped  straw, 
or  in  prognostication  of  its  being 
speedily  destroyed  Uke  stubble  or  chaff; 
but  Alessandria  rapidly  rose  to  great 
power.  The  inhabitants  of  the  sur- 
rounding villages  and  towns,  Castel- 
lazzo,  Marengo,  Solerio,  Bergoglio, 
Quargnento,  Villa  del  Foro,  and  Ovig- 
Uo,  removed  into  it.  From  Asti  came 
3000,  including  some  of  the  most  noble 
fiunilies.  Milan  furnished  a  large  con- 
tingent; and  the  siege  laid  to  Ales- 
sandria by  the  incensed  Emperor  in 
1174  ended  in  a  disgraced  retreat 
from  before  the  newly  erected  walls. 
Subsequently,  when  he  made  peace 
with  the  city,  he  stipulated  that  it 
should  assume  the  name  of  Cesarean 
but  the  Guelfic  appellation  prevailed 
over  the  GhibeUine ;  and  Alessandria 
continued  to  retain  its  original  denomi- 
nation. 

Alessandria  has  been  strongly  for- 
tified by  the  sovereigns  of  the  House 
of  Savoy.  The  citadel,  built  in  1728, 
is  now  the  most  interesting  and  the 
most  prominent  feature  of  the  city. 
The  road  winds  round  it,  passing  over 
a  covered  bridge,  imder  which  the  Ta- 
naro seems  to  be  lost.  This  fortress  is 
larger  than  many  towns,  with  a  regular 
Place  in  the  centre,  a  parish  church, 
and  very  extensive  barracks  and  ar- 
mouries. The  French  added  to  the 
fortifications  of  the  city ;  and  much 
more  was  projected  by  Napoleon,  by 
whose  orders  extensive  lines  were  be- 
gun, but  the  unfinished  works  left  by 
him  were  afterwards  destroyed.  Mo- 
dem engineers  have  skilftilly  availed 
themselves  of  the  advantages  afforded 


Piedmont. 


Boute  5. — Novi — BusaUa. 


61 


by  the  position  chosen  by  those  of  the 
middle  ages  ;  and,  after  Verona,  Ales- 
sandria is  now  the  strongest  fortified 
town  in  Italy;  by  means  of  the  sluices 
of  the  Tanaro  the  whole  surrounding 
country  can  be  inundated,  and  ren- 
dered quite  unapproachable  by  the 
enemy. 

The  Duomo  is  richly  decorated  ;  its 
principal  work  of  art  is  a  colossal  statue 
of  St.  Joseph,  by  Farodi, 

The  Church  of  the  Madonna  di  JLo- 
reto,  recently  completed,  says  little  for 
the  talent  of  the  architect. 

Palazzo  GhUino,  built  by  Count  Al- 
fieri,  and  amongst  the  best  examples  of 
his  style.  It  now  belongs  to  the  king. 
On  the  whole,  Alessandria  offers  less 
than  the  average  interest  of  Italian 
cities,  partly  the  result  of  its  modem 
foundation. 

Two  great  business  £3.irs  are  held 
here  annually,  in  April  and  in  October. 
The  goods  are  sold  in  a  species  of 
bazaar  erected  for  the  purpose.  The 
traveller  who  consults  his  purse  and 
his  comfort  must  not  attempt  to  stop 
at  Alessandria  during  these  fairs. 

The  Kly.  between  Alessandria  and 
Arena,  by  Valenza,  Mortara,  and  No- 
vara,  is  now  open  throughout  the  entire 
distance.  By  it  the  traveller  is  enabled 
to  reach  the  shores  of  theLagoMaggiore 
in  5J  hrs.  from  Genoa — a  great  conve- 
nience for  persons  going  into  Switzer- 
land and  down  the  Bhine  to  England. 
From  Alessandria  rlys.  branch  off  to 
Acqui,  21  m.,  up  the  valley  of  the 
Bormida  (Rte.  11)  ;  to  Bra  and  Ca- 
vallermaggiore  (61  m.),  passing  by 
Oviglio  (the  Boman  Ovilia),  13  kU. ; 
Nizza  di  Monferrato,  30  kil. ;  Alba, 
60  kil. ;  Bra,  85  kil. ;  Cavallermaggiore, 
98  kil.  :  and  to  Piacenza,  by  Tortona, 
Voghera,  and  Stradella  (Rte.  7). 

Before  arriving  at  the  Station  of 
Alessandria  the  railway  crosses  the 
Tanaro,  and,  soon  after  leaving  it,  the 
Bormida :  it  then  runs  along  the  west- 
em  side  of  the  battle-field  of  Marengo 
(see  Rte.  7),  distant  about  two  nules 
and  parallel  to  the  old  post-road  to 

10  kil.  Frugarolo  Stat.,  near  the  vil- 
lage of  Sosco,  in  the  extensive  plain  of 


Marengo,  richly  cultivated  in  com,  mul- 
berry-trees, &c. 

12  kiL  Nam  Stat,  {Inns :  rEuropa,very 
tolerable ;  the  Aquila  Nera  is  also  good 
and  clean.)  Novi  will  be  the  best  sleep- 
ing place  between  Milan  and  Genoa.  It 
is  a  to^yn  of  10,800  Inhab.,  with  a  con- 
siderable trade,  but  offering  nothing 
remarkable,  except  some  picturesque 
old  houses.  The  silk  produced  about 
Novi  is  amongst  the  most  celebrated  in 
Italy.  •  The  old  post-road  from  Milan 
to  Genoa,  by  Pavia  and  Tortona,  joins 
at  Novi,  and  the  Rly.  from  Tortona 
(12  m.),  forming  the  most  direct 
commimication  with  Pavia,  Piacenza, 
Parma,  Modena,  and  Bologna. 

Beyond  Novi  we  approach  the  Apen- 
nines, and  the  country  becomes  very 
beautiful.  Fine  lulls  in  the  distance, 
and  beautiful  groves  of  chestnut-trees, 
cheer  and  enliven  the  way. 

8  kil.  Serravalle  Stat.  Near  the  en- 
trance to  the  mountain  valley  of  the 
Scrivia,  which  flows  close  to  the  village, 
and  which  is  crossed  by  a  bridge :  the 
hills  rise  picturesquely  on  either  side, 
and  the  geologist  will  here  observe  an 
interesting  section  of  the  tertiary  marine 
strata  dipping  away  &om  the  central 
range.  The  Rly.  follows  the  sinuosities 
of  the  valley,  passing  through  a  long 
tunnel  after  leaving  Serravalle.  A 
tunnel  is  traversed  before — 

4  kil.  Arquata  Stat.  A  fine  ruined 
castle  surmounts  the  hill,  and  the  road 
continues  increasing  in  beauty. 

9  kil.  Isola  del  Cantone  Stat.,  near 
a  small  village  of  that  name,  on  a 
promontory  at  the  junction  of  fthe 
Scrivia  and  another  stream.  A  fine 
bridge  has  been  thrown  over  the  former 
river  at  this  point. 

5  kil.  Sonco  Stat.  A  romantic  vil- 
lage, from  wliich,  before  the  completion 
of  the  Rly.,  commenced  the  ascent  of  the 
Apennines  by  the  post-road. 

5  kil.  BusallaStat.,  on  the  Scrivia,  the 
last  station  on  the  northern  declivity 
of  the  Apennines,  and  the  summit  level 
of  the  entire  line  of  Rly.  between  Turin 

P2 


62 


EoiUe  S.^'BitsdUa — Tunnel* 


Sect.  I. 


and  G^oa.  The  carriage-road,  which 
runs  through  the  village,  ascends  to  the 
Pass  or  Col  di  Gioye,  the  culminating 
point  from  which  the  traveller  will 
descry  the  Mediterranean,  a  considera- 
ble portion  of  the  valley  of  the  Polcevera, 
leading  to  Genoa,  and  the  peaks  behind 
that  city  crowned  with  their  detached 
forts. 

The  great  Tunnel  which  traverses  the 
central  ridge  of  the  Apennines  com- 
mences at  BusaUa ;  it  is  3470  yards,  or 
very  little  short  of  2  English  nules,  in 
length ;  the  whole  of  this  distance  is 
not  however  excavated  in  the  moun- 
tain; the  first  part  being  a  great  artificial 
tube  or  archwav  parallel  to  the  Scri- 
via,  it  having,  m)m  the  friable  nature 
of  the  rock,  been  found  impossible  to 
form  a  cutting  that  would  exclude  the 
river,  and  prevent  infiltrations  from 
torrents  descending  from  the  hills 
above  to  empty  themselves  into  the 
Scrivia :  the  rest  of  the  tunnel  (about 
3000  yards)  is  excavated  in  the  rock,  a 
friable  calcareous  schistus;  the  whole 
is  walled,  and  14  shafts  descend, from 
the  surface  to  convey  air.  A  portion 
of  the  stream  of  the  Scrivia  has  been 
diverted  through  the  tunnel  to  supply 
Genoa  with  water.  Notwithstanding 
the  very  steep  incline,  the  passage 
through  the  tunnel,  as  well  as  that 
along  the  rest  of  the  line  leading  to 
Genoa,  is  very  safely  effected  by  en- 
gines of  a  peculiar  construction,  made 
by  Messrs.  Stephenson  of  Newcastle. 
Emerging  from  the  tunnel  we  enter  the 
valley  of  the  Polcevera,  which  the  Ely. 
follows,  to  near  the  gates  of  G^noa. 
The  works  of  the  raUroad  in  all  this 
extent  have  been  admirably  constructed, 
the  greater  portion  of  the  line  being  on 
terraces  of  solid  masonry,  or  on  gigan- 
tic embankments ;  the  following  being 
the  stations  beyond  Busalla : — 
10  kil.  Pontedecimo  Stat, 

4  kil.  Bolzanetfo  Stat, 

3  kil.  jRwa/rolo  Stat, 

2  kil.  San  Pier  cP  Arena  Stat, 

3kiL.  Genoa. 

Once  on  the  S.  dechvity  of  the  chain, 
the  entire  appearance  of  the  country 
and  the  people  changes:  vines  grow 


luxuriantly  at  Ponte  Decimo  near  the 
S.  opening  of  the  tunnel,  and  are  soon 
succeeded  by  olive-trees;  and  before 
reaching  Genoa,  the  traveller  arriving 
from  beyond  the  Alps  will,  for  the  first 
time,  see  oranges  growiog  in  the.  open 
air;  the  villages  he  passes  through, 
have  also  quite  a  southern  appearance, 
and  the  language  spoken  is  different, 
being  the  Genoese  dialect.  As  Ge- 
noa is  approached,  the  villas  of  the 
Genoese  aristocracy  succeed ;  th^  Ely. 
runs  along  the  base  of  a  ridge  crowned 
by  fortifications  on  the  1.,  and  after 
passing  through  San  Pier  d' Arena  it 
enters  the  tunnel  of  the  Lantema  to 
emerge  from  it  a  few  himdred  yards 
before  reaching  the  station  in  Genoa, 
situated  near  the  Palazzo  Doria  and 
the  Piazza  di  Aqua  Yerde. 
Genoa  Tebminus.  (Rte.  13.) 
Motels :  H6tel  Feder ;  H6tel  d'ltalie, 
kept  by  Tea;  H.  Eoyal;  the  H&tels 
de  la  Yille,  Croix  de  Malte :  all  good. 
Omnibuses  are  in  attendance  at  the 
rly.  station  to  take  travellers  to  these 
dmerent  hotels. 


Piedmont.  Route  6. — Alessandria  to  Nbmra  and  Aram. 


63 


KTL. 

Alessandria  to 

Val  Madonna 

i     .     9 

Yalenza  .     , 

.  14 

Torreberettl 

.      .  21 

Sartirana 

.  27 

VaUe .     .     . 

.      .  29 

Olevano   . 

.     .  37 

MO&TABA 

.     .  41  J 

ROUTE  6. 

iXESSANDBIA  TO  HOBTABA,  ITOYABA, 
AJTD  ABOITA,  ON  THE  IiAGO  MAGh 
GIOBE — ^BAIL. 

63  m. 


KIL. 

BorgoLavezzaro  49 

Vespolate     .     .  64 

Nov  ABA  ...  66 

Bellinzago     .     .  79 

Ole^o     ...  82 

Varallo  Pombia .  90 

Borgo  Ticino      .  93 

Abona    .     .     .  102 


Kailway  from  Alessandria  to  Arona, 
63  J  m.  (4  trains  daily  in  3i  hrs.),  fur- 
nishing  the  easiest  mode  of  reaching 
Switzerland  from  the  shores  of  the 
Mediterranean  combined  with  the  line 
from  Gknoa  to  Alessandria. 

The  first  part  of  the  Rly.,  as  far 
as  the  Po,  is  through  a  hilly  country, 
the  E.  angle  of  the  group  of  tertiary 
hills  of  the  Astigiano,  between  the  Po 
and  the  Tanaro :  a  gradual  ascent  of  75 
ft.  brings  us  to 

9  kiL  Val  Madonna  Siat.y  nearly  at 
the  summit  level,  from  which  an  equally 
gradual  descent,  after  passing  through 
a  long  tunnel,  leads  to 

5  Ml.  Valenza  Junction  Siat.,  a  short 
way  on  the  1.  of  the  town,  which  con- 
tains a  population  of  4000.  A  Bly. 
branches  off  to  Casale  (14  m.)  and 
Vercelli  (26  m.).  Soon  after  leaving 
Talenza  the  Po  is  crossed  by  a  fine 
bridge  of  20  arches. 

7  kil.  Torreheretti  Stat.  [A  Rly. 
(43  kil.  =  26J  m.)  from  here  to  Pavia 
and  (79  kil.  =  47  m.)  to  Milan,  per- 
forming the  journey  to  the  former  in 
1  hr.  to  1  hr.  20  m.,  the  stations  being — 

4  kil.  Casfellaro. 

8  kil.  Mede, 
12  kih  Lomello, 
19  kil.  Ferrera. 
22  kil*  8aimazzaro, 
27  kil.  JPieve  JJttngnola, 


30  kil.  Zinasco, 

36  kn.  Cava  Carhonara,"} 

6  kil.  Sartirana  Stat.y  near  a  con- 
siderable town  in  a  rich  agricultural 
district. 

2  kil.  Valle  Stat,  3  m.  on  the  1.  is 
the  town  of  Candia,  on  the  carriage- 
road  from  Casale  to  Mortara. 

After  Valle  the  Rly.  crosses  nu- 
merous streams  and  canals,  the  country 
being  highly  irrigated,  and  laid  out  in 
pasturage  and  rice-fields,  to 

8  kil.  Olevano  Stat.,  near  the  1.  bank 
of  the  Agogna,  descending  from  Novara. 

4  kil.  Mortwra  (4070  Inhab.),  the 
chief  town  of  the  Lomellina,  the  district 
between  the  rivers  Ticino  and  Sesia; 
its  name  is  supposed  by  some  to  be 
derived  from  Mortis  Ara,  the  altar  of 
death,  by  others  from  the  slaughter  of 
the  Lombards  by  Charlemagne,  whom 
he  defeated  here  in  a.d.  774;  the 
country  around  being  unhealthy,  from 
its  luxuriant  vegetation  and  irrigation. 

Santa  MaHa,  the  principal  church, 
has  been  a  good  specimen  of  Italian 
Gothic,  it  is  now  much  dilapidated. 
In  this  neighbourhood  took  place  a 
severe  action  between  the  Piedmontese 
and  the  Austrians  on  the  21st  of  March, 
1849,  when  the  former,  overpowered, 
by  numbers,  were  obHged  to  fallback  on 
Novara. 

A  Rly.  is  open  from  Mortara  to 
Vigevano,  about  8  m.  distant,  and 
from  which  conveyances  are  ready  on 
the  arrival  of  each  train  to  take  pas- 
sengers to  Milan  in  3J  hrs.  (a  direct 
rly.  from  Vigevano  to  Milan  is  pro- 
jected). (See  Rte.  3.)  From  Mortara 
the  rly.  follows  the  course  of  the  Arho- 
roso  stream  nearly  to  Novara. 

8  kil.  Borgo  Lavezzaro  Stat.  3  m. 
on  the  rt.  is  the  town  of  Chravellona^  in 
the  plain  of  the  Terdoppio. 

5  kil.  Vespolate  Stat.  From  here  the 
Rly.  has  a  steeper  incline  than  hi- 
therto, running  parallel  to  the  post- 
road  passing  from 

Ghirbagnato  Olegno.  It  was  about 
here,  and  over  the  fields  reaching  to  the 
hamlet  of  la  Bicocca,  ^  m.  on  the  1., 
that  the  battle  raged  most  violently  on 
the  23rd  of  March,  1849.    (See  p.  40.) 


54 


Route  7,— Alessandria  to  Piacenza* 


Sect.  1. 


12  kil.  Novara  Stat.  (See  Kte.  2.) 
Between  Noyara  and  Arona  the  Bly. 
runs  'dose  to  the  post-road,  and  pa- 
rallel to  the  Ticmo  and  the  W.  shore 
of  the  Lago  Maggiore.  Persons  pro- 
ceeding to  Milan,  Arona,  and  Turin 
change  carriages  here  (see  Bte.  2).  1 
m. .  beyond  Novara  cross  the  Cavour 
Canal. 

13  kil.  Bellinza^o  Stat, 

3  kil.  Oleggio  Stat,  a  large  Tillage 
about  3  m.  W.  of  the  Ticipo. 

8  kiL  Varallo  Pomhia  Stat.  A  road 
from  here  strikes  off  on  the  rt.  to  Somma, 
crossing  the  Ticino  by  a  ferry-boat.  The 
rlv.  cuts  through  the  low  gravel  hills 
which  bound  the  valley  of  the  Ticino 
on  W. 

3  kil.  Borgo  Ticino  Stat.  The  road 
rises  all  the  way  from  Novara  to  this 
station,  descending  afterwards  to  near 
the  shores  of  the  lake,  which  it  follows 
to 

9  kil.  Arona  Stat.  The  Ely.  Stat, 
is  at  the  S.  extremity  of  the  town,  close 
to  the  lake  and  to  the  quay  where  the 
steamers  start  from. 

Inns:  Albergo  d' Italia,  much  im- 
proved, and  close  to  the  rly.  station, 
the  best;  A.  della  Fosta,  idso  good; 
and  Hdtel  Boyal,  near  to  the  rly.  stat. 
and  landing-place  from  the  steamers. 

Steamers  leave  Arona  for  all  the 
stations  on  the  upper  part  of  the  lake, 
on  the  arrival  of  the  rly.  trains  from 
Milan,  Genoa,  Turin,  &c.,  as  they  arrive 
from  Magadino  for  the  trains  that  start 
from  Arona  for  the  same  cities.  It 
would  be  difficult  to  state  the  hours  of 
these  departures  and  arrivals,  as  they 
vary  according  to  the  seasons.  There 
are  3  departures  and  3  arrivals  daily,  aU 
of  which  call  at  the  Borromean  Islands, 
or  at  the  neighbouring  station  of  Stresa, 
as  do  those  on  the  downward  voyage 
from  Magadino.  These  boats  belong  to 
the  Q-ovemment. 


KOUTE   7. 


ALESSAimBIA 

TO    FIAGENZA,    BY    TOB- 

TONA,  YOGHEBA, 

AND  CA8TEGOI0. 

60 

m. 

KIL. 

KIL. 

Alessandria  to 

Broni 60 

Lal^inetta  .    . 

.     8 

Stradella   ....  64 

S.  aiullano    .    . 

.  14 

Arena  Po  ....  68 

Tortona    .    .    . 

.  22 

Castel  S.  aioyanni .  75 

Ponte  Carone    . 

.  31 

Sarmato    .    .    .    .76 

Vogbera    .    .    , 

.  39 

Rottofreno     ...  84 

CasteftKlo  .    .    . 

.  48 

S.  Nicolo  ....  88 

Son  GluUetta     . 

.  53 

Piacenxa   ....  97 

For  the  journey  by  ^y.  between 
Turin  and  Alessandria,  see  Bte.  5.  The 
railway  to  Fiacenza,  Farma,  and  Bo- 
logna— ^proceeds  in  a  direct  line,  passing 
by  Tortona,  Casteggio,  and  La  Stra- 
della.  Soon  after  leaving  Alessandria 
the  Bormida  is  crossed,  the  line  to 
Genoa  branchmg  off  on  the  rt. 

The  village  of  Marengo  on  the  post- 
road  is  passed  on  the  1.  soon  after  cross- 
ing the  Bormida,  and  the  road  con- 
tinues through  the  plain  of  the  battle- 
field. "  On  the  evening  of  the  13th  of 
June,  1800,  the  whole  Austrian  army 
mustered  in  front  of  Alessandria,  hav- 
ing only  the  river  Bormida  between 
them  and  the  plain  of  Marengo ;  and 
early  in  the  following  morning  they 
passed  the  stream  at  three  several  points, 
and  advanced  towards  the  French  posi- 
tion in  as  many  columns. 

"  The  Austrians  were  full  forty 
thousand  strong ;  while,  in  the  absence 
of  Dessaix  and  the  reserve.  Napoleon 
could  at  most  oppose  to  them  twenty 
thousand,  of  whom  only  two  thousand 
five  hundred  were  cavalry.  He  had, 
however,  no  hesitation  about  accepting 
the  battle.  His  advance,  under  G-ar- 
danne,  occupied  the  small  hamlet  of 
Fadre  Bona,  a  little  in  front  of  Ma- 
rengo. At  that  village,  which  over- 
looks a  narrow  ravine,  the  channel  of  a 
rivulet.  Napoleon  stationed  Victor  with 
the  main  body  of  his  first  line,  the  ex- 
treme right  of  it  resting  on  Castel 
Geriolo,  another  hamlet  almost  parallel. 


Piedmont. 


Houte  7. — Battle  of  Marengo. 


55 


with  Marengo.  Kellerman,  with  a  bri- 
gade of  cavalry,  was  posted  immediately 
behind  Victor  for  the  protection  of  his 
flanks.  A  thousand  yards  in  the  rear 
of  Victor  was  the  second  line,  imder 
Lannes,  protected  in  like  fasliion  by  the 
cayalry  of  Champeaux.  At  about  an 
equal  distance,  again,  behind  Lannes, 
was  the  third  line,  consisting  of  the 
division  of  St.  Cyr,  and  the  consular 
guard  under  Napoleon  in  person.  The 
Austrian  heavy  infantry,  on  reaching 
the  open  field,  formed  into  two  hues, 
the  first,  under  General  Haddick,  con- 
siderably in  advance  before  the  other, 
which  Melas  himself  commanded,  with 
G^aeral  Zach  for  his  second.  These 
moved  steadily.towards  Marengo,  while 
the  light  infantry  and  cavabT^,  under 
General  Elsnitz,  made  a  detour  round 
Oastel  Ceriolo,  with  the  purpose  of  out- 
flanking the  French  right. 

"  Such  was  the  posture  of  the  two 
armies  when  this  great  battle  began. 
Ghardanne  was  unable  to  withstand  the 
shock,  and,  abandoning  Padre  Bona, 
fell  back  to  strengthen  Victor.  A  fu- 
rious cannonade  along  the  whole  front 
of  that  position  ensued.  The  tirailleurs 
of  either  army  posted  themselves  along 
the  margin  oi  the  ravine,  and  fired  in- 
cessantly at  each  other,  their  pieces  al- 
most touching.  Cannon  and  musketry 
spread  devastation  everywhere,  for  the 
armies  were  but  a  few  toises  apart.  For 
more  than  two  hours  Victor  withstood 
singly  the  vigorous  assaults  of  a  far 
superior  force;  Marengo  had  been 
taken  and  retaken  several  times  ere 
Lannes  received  orders  to  reinforce 
him.  The  second  hne  at  length  ad- 
vanced ;  but  they  found  the  first  in  re- 
treat, and  the  two  corps  took  up  a 
second  line  of  defence  considerably 
to  the  rear  of  Marengo.  Here  they 
were  again  charged  furiously,  and 
again,  ^er  obstinate  resistance,  gave 
way.  General  EJsnitz,  meantime, 
having  efiected  his  purpose,  and  fairly 
marched  round  Oastel  Ceriolo,  ap- 
peared on  the  right  flank  with  ms 
splendid  cavalry,  and  began  to  pour 
his  squadrons  upon  the  retreating 
columns  of  Lannes,   That  gallant  chief 


formed  his  troops  en  echelon,  and  re- 
tired in  admirable  order :  but  the  re- 
treat was  now  general ;  and,  had  Melas 
pursued  the  advantage  with  all  his 
reserve,  the  battle  was  won.  But  that 
aged  general  (he  was  84  years  old) 
doubted  not  that  he  had  won  it  already; 
and  at  this  critical  moment,  being  quite 
worn  out  with  fatigue,  withdrew  to  the 
rear,  leaving  Zach  to  continue  what  he 
considered  as  now  a  mere  pursuit. 

"  At  the  moment  when  the  Austrian 
horse  were  about  to  rush  on  Lannes' 
retreating  corps,  the  reserve  under  Des- 
saix  appeared  on  the  outskirts  of  the 
field.  Dessaix  himself,  riding  up  to  the 
First  Consul,  said,  'I  think  this  a 
battle  lost.*  *  I  think  it  is  a  battle  won,' 
answered  Napoleon.  *  Do  you  push 
on,  and  I  wiU  speedily  rally  the  line 
behiud  you.'  And,  in  efiect,  the  timely 
arrival  of  this  reserve  turned  the  fortune 
of  the  day. 

"  Napoleon  in  pjerson  drew  up  the 
whole  of  his  army  in  a  third  line  of 
battle,  and  rode  along  the  front,  saying, 
*  Soldiers,  we  have  retired  far  enough — 
let  us  now  advance — ^you  know  it  is  my 
custom  to  sleep  on  the  field  of  battle.' 
The  enthusiasm  of  the  troops  appeared 
to  be  revived,  and  Dessaix  prepared  to 
act  on  the  offensive.  He  led  a  fresh 
column  of  5000  grenadiers  to  meet  and 
check  the  advance  of  Zach.  The  brave 
Dessaix  fell  dead  at  the  first  fire,  shot 
through  the  head.  *  Alas !  it  is  not 
permitted  to  me  to  weep,'  said  Napo- 
leon: and  the  faU  of  that  beloved  chief 
redoubled  the  fury  of  his  followers. 
The  first  line  of  the  Austrian  infantry 
charged,  however,  with  equal  resolution. 
At  that  moment  Kellerman' s  horse 
came  on  them  in  flank,  and,  being  by 
that  unexpected  assault  broken,  they 
were,  after  a  vain  struggle,  compelled 
to  surrender.  General  Zach  himself 
was  here  made  prisoner.  The  Austrian 
columns  behind,  being  flushed  with 
victory,  were  advancing  too  carelessly, 
and  proved  unable  to  resist  the  general 
assault  of  the  whole  French  line,  which 
now  pressed  onwards  under  the  imme- 
diate conmiand  of  Napoleon.  Post 
I  after  post  was  carried.     The   noble 


66 


Route  7. — Tortona — Voghera, 


Sect.  1. 


cavalry  of  Elsnitz,  perceiving  the  in- 
fantry broken  and  retiring,  lost  heart ; 
and,  instead  of  forming  to  protect  their 
retreat,  turned  their  horses'  heads  and 
galloped  over  the  plain,  trampling 
down  everything  in  their  way.  When 
the  routed  army  reached  at  length  the 
Bormida,  the  confusion  was  indescrib- 
able. Hundreds  were  drowned — the 
river  rolled  red  amidst  the  corpses  of 
horses  and  men.  Whole  corps,  being 
unable  to  effect  the  passage,  surrender- 
ed ;  and,  at  ten  at  night,  the  Austrian 
commander  with  difficulty  rallied  the 
remnant  of  that  magnificent  array  on 
the  very  ground  which  they  had  left 
the  same  morning  in  all  the  confidence 
of  victory." 

The  portion  of  the  plain  on  which  the 
battle  was  fought  was  purchased  some 
years  ago  by  M.  Q-iovanni  Delavo,  who 
in  1847  erected  there  a  Museum,  and  a 
monimient  to  the  memory  of  Napoleon. 
From  the  Bormida  the  rly.  runs  across 
the  plain,  here  richly  cultivated,  for  12 
m.,  passing  by 

8  kil.  La  Spinetta  Stat.^  the  nearest 
point  of  the  line  to  Marengo. 

6  kil.  San  Oivliano  Stat, :  cross  the 
Scrivia  before  arriving  at 

8  kil.  Tortona  Junction  Stat.^  the 
Dertona  of  the  Bomans,  a  town  of  12,500 
Inhab.,  situated  at  the  base  of  one  of  the 
last  spurs  of  the  sub-Apennine  hills, 
about  I  m.  beyond  the  rt.  bank  of  the 
Scrivia  {Inn:  St.  Marsano)  ;  one  of 
the  most  ancient  cities  of  Northern 
Italy  J  it  was  one  of  the  towns  of  the 
liombard  league,  and  was  levelled  to  the 
groimd  by  Frederick  Barbarossa.  In 
recent  times  it  was  fortified  by  Yit- 
tore  Amadeo  II. ;  but  the  French  blew 
up  the  citadel  in  1796,  after  its  surren- 
der, in  virtue  of  the  stipulations  of 
the  treaty  of  Cherasco.  The  Duomo 
contains  a  remarkable  ancient  sarco- 
phagus, on  which  are  inscriptions  in 
Greek  and  Latin,  to  the  memory  of  P. 
iE)Uus  Sabinus,  and  a  curious  mixture 
of  Pagan  and  Christian  emblems.  The 
former  are  by  far  the  most  prom- 
inent. Castor,  Pollux,  and  the  fall 
of  Phaeton  stand  out  boldly  j  whilst 
the  lamb  and  the  vine  more  obscurely 


indicate  the  faith  of  the  mother  who 
raised  the  tomb.  This  curious  amal- 
gamation of  Pagan  mythology  and  of 
Christianity  is  explained  by  supposing 
that  the  family  were  a&aid  to  manifest 
their  beUef. 

In  the  church  of  San  Francesco  is 
the  rich  chapel  of  the  Grarofali  family. 
The  other  churches  do  not  offer  any- 
thing remarkable. 

9  kil.  Ponte  Curone  Stat.,  a  village 
so  named  from  the  torrent  which  runs 
close  to  it.  The  rly.  continues  across 
the  plain,  having  the  hills  on  the  rt., 
passing  through 

8  kil.  Voghera  Stat.y  the  Iria  of  the 
Bomans.  (5?he  Moro,  the  principal  Inn, 
is  thoroughly  Italian.)  11,450  Inhab. 
The  country  around  Voghera,  which  is 
situated  in  the  plain  at  some  distance 
from  the  sub-Apennine  hills,  is  very  fer- 
tile. The  church  of  S.  Lorenzo  is  an 
elegant  building  of  the  17di  centy. 
Near  the  altar  is  the  tomb  of  a  certain 
Count  Taddeo  de  Vesme,  whose  body 
was  found  entire  200  years  after  his 
death,  in  1458 — a  fact  commemorated 
in  a  strange  inscription  placed  over  his 
tomb,  announcing  that  when  it  was 
opened,  in  1646,  his  body  was  found 
entire,  and,  on'  separating  one  of  the 
arms,  blood  flowed  from  it.  This  count, 
despoiled  of  his  possessions  by  Ludo- 
vico  Sforza,  died  in  odour  of  sanctity. 
Here  is  preserved,  in  a  curious  reliqui- 
ary,  a  thorn  of  the  crown  of  our  Saviour, 
presented  in  1436  to  this  ch.  by  Arch- 
bishop Pietro  de  Giorgi,  whose  tomb 
is  in  the  middle  of  the  aisle.  There  is 
also  another  ostensoir,  weighing  25  lbs., 
made  at  Milan  about  the  same  period. 
This  is  one  of  the  earliest  ItaHan 
towns  in  which  printing  was  intro- 
duced; and  the  books  produced  here 
are  of  the  greatest  rarity.  Voghera 
having  been  a  station  on  the  Via 
Emilia,  several  Boman  antiquities  have 
been  found  near  it.  There  was  a  small 
collection  of  them  at  the  Canon  Man- 
fredi's  :  amongst  others  a  large  cameo 
of  a  female,  supposed  to  be  Eudoxia  or 
Theodora.  Leaving  Voghera,  the  rail- 
way approaches  graduaUy  the  hilly  re- 
gion, the  foot  of  which  it  reaches,  about 


PlEDMOKT. 


Houte  7 . — Casteggio —  Sroni. 


67 


a  mile  before  reaching  Casteggio,  at 
Montebello. 

9  kil.  Casteggio  Stat  {Inn :  Albergo 
d'ltalia);  2900  Inhab.;  the  ancient  Clas- 
tidium,  a  town  of  importance  in  Cisal- 
pine Q-aul,  celebrated  as  the  place  where 
Claudius  Marcellus  gained  the  spolia 
opima,  by  defeating  and  slaying  Virdo- 
marus  King  of  the  Gbesatse.  It  has  been 
an  important  military  position  from  the 
time  of  the  GfaUic  and  Punic  wars  down 
to  the  last  great  European  conflict.  It 
was  besieged  by  Hannibal,  and  might 
have  defied  his  power ;  but  200  pieces  of 
gold  paid  to  Publius  Darius,  the  com- 
mander, purchased  the  fortress ;  and 
the  provisions  and  stores  found  therein 
were  of  the  greatest  utiUty  to  the  Car- 
thaguiian  army.  Of  the  Carthaginian 
general  there  is  yet  a  remarkable  me- 
morial. About  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from 
the  town  is  a  spring  of  very  pure  and 
clear  water,  called,  by  immemorial  tra- 
dition, "  the  Fontana  d*Annibale,"  and 
girt  by  a  wall  which  he  is  said  to  have 
built.  It  is  close  to  the  track  of  the  Ro- 
man army,  and  about  100  yards  from 
the  modem  road  to  Piacenza.  It  was 
near  Casteggio  that,  on  the  9th  of 
June,  1800,  the  great  battle  between  the 
B^rench  and  the  Austrians  was  fought, 
usually  called  the  battle  of  Monte- 
bello, from  the  village  on  the  hill, 
about  1  m.  W.  of  it,  where  the  !Prench 
£naUy  routed  the  corps  de  reserve  of 
the  enemy.  The  Austrians  defended 
themselves  in  Casteggio  with  the  great- 
est valour ;  and  the  hills  near  the  town 
were  constantly  occupied  and  re-occu- 
pied by  the  contending  parties ;  but  the 
fortune  of  the  day  was  decided  by 
Victor,  who  broke  the  centre  of  the 
enemy;  and  when  Napoleon  came  up 
to  the  assistance  of  the  French  van- 
guard, the  victory  had  been  already 
gained.  It  was  nearly  on  the  same  site 
that  the  imited  armies  of  the  French 
and  Piedmontese  defeated  the  Austrians 
in  May,  1859 :  the  first  great  success  of 
the  allied  armies  during  the  last  Italian 
war.  A  few  fragments  of  walls  and 
towers  are  the  only  remaining  vestiges 
of  antiquity  in  tms  town ;  but  many 
curious  Koman  mscriptions,  bronzes, 


and  coins,  have  been  found  here.  A 
good  road  of  about  10  m.  leads  from 
Casteggio  to  Pavia,  crossing  the  Po  at 
Mezzana  Corti  and  the  Ticino  at  San 
Martino^  Conveyances  will  be  easily 
procured  at  the  Rly  Stat.,  and  diligences 
in  correspondence  with  the  early  trains 
from  Turin,  Q^noa,  and  Piacenza  run 
between  the  two  places,  performing  the 
journey  in  2  hrs. ;  a  rly.  is  nearly  com- 
pleted between  Pavia  and  Casteggio. 
From  Casteggio  the  railway  follows  the 
base  of  the  hilly  region,  through  corn- 
fields, the  hills  being  covered  with  vines, 
passing  by 

5  kil.  jS*.  Oiulietta  Stat. 

7  kil,  Broni  Stat,  a  town  of  4500  In- 
hab.,  near  the  site  of  the  Roman  station 
of  Carrullomagus.  Its  situation,  a  plain 
at  the  roots  of  the  Apennines,  is  very 
beautiful.  The  collegiatechurch,  founded 
by  Azzo  Marquis  of  Este  and  Ferrara,  in 
the  13th  centy.,  is  a  building  of  various 
ages  and  styles :  some  portions  are  of 
the  10th  centy.  It  has  recently  been 
richly  fitted  up  by  the  inhabitants: 
it  boasts  a  silver  shrine,  containing 
the  reUcs  of  San  Contardo,  the  son 
of  the  founder.  Very  good  wine  is 
made  in  this  neighbourhood. 

4  Stradella  Stat,  at  the  extreme 
northern  point  of  the  hills,  which  here 
approach  within  2  m.  of  the  Po.  A  road 
leads  from  Stradella  to  Milan,  by  Corte 
Olona,  crossing  the  Po  (2^  m.)  at  the 
ferry  of  PortaWera, 

From  La  Stradella  the  Rly.,  follow- 
the.  base  of  the  hills,  approaches  gra- 
dually the  Po. 

4  kil.  Arerta  Po  Stat.  The  village 
of  this  name  is  at  some  distance  on 
the  1.  Half-way  between  this  Stat,  and 
the  next  cross  the  Bardonezza  tor- 
rent, formerly  the  boundary  between 
Piedmont  and  the  duchy  of  Piacenza. 

^  kil.  Castel  S.  Qiovawni.  Formerly 
the  frontier-town  of  that  Duchy,  on 
the  1.  bank  of  the  Corona. 

4  kil.  Sa/rmato  Stat,  Here  the  line 
separates  from  the  hills  on  the  rt.,  and 
soon  crosses  the  Tidone  stream. 

5J  kU.  JRottofreno  Stat 

3  kil.  San  Nicolo  Stat,  near  the  1. 
bank  of  the  Trebbia,  on  leaving  which 

3>3 


58 


Route  8. — Turin  to  Nicei 


Sect.  Ii 


the  river  is  crosBed  on  the  xnagnifioent  I 
bridge  erected  in  1825  by  the  Empress 
Maria  Louisa,  under  the  direction  of 
the  engineer  Coccanelli,  at  an  expense 
of  47,200Z.  sterling.  It  consists  of  23 
arches,  its  length  500  yards,  and  the 
width  between  the  parapets  26  ft.  A 
column  at  its  extremity  recalls  the  3 
great  battles  which  took  place  in  the 
neighbourhood.  By  an  act  of  useless 
precaution,  for  the  river  was  dry  at  the 
time,  the  Austrians  blew  up  some  of 
the  arches  on  the  eastern  side,  in  their 
retreat  from  Fiaoenza,  in  May,  1859. 

The  lower  course  of  the  Trebbia  is 
celebrated  in  the  military  history  of 
Italy,  as  having  witnessed  three  great 
battles,  each  of  which  decided  the  fate 
of  Italy  for  the  time ;  the  first,  between 
Hannibal  and  the  Bomans  under  the 
Consxd  Sempronius,  B.o.  218,  which 
opened  Central  and  Southern  Italy  to 
the  Carthaginian  invader ;  the  second, 
in  1746,  between  the  united  armies  of 
France  and  Spain  on  the  one  side,  and 
the  allied  Austro-Piedmontese,  which 
led  to  the  momentary  expulsion  of  the 
Bourbons  from^  Parma  and  Piacenza; 
and  the  last,  in  June,  1799,  when  the 
French  army,  under  Macdonald,  after 
a  prolonged  struggle-  of  3  days,  and 
a  loss  of  15,000  men,  was  obliged  to 
retreat  before  the  Kussians  and  Impe- 
rialists  commanded  by  Suwarrow.  It 
is  difficult  to  fix,  with  any  degree  of 
precision,  the  site  where  Hannibal  de- 
feated Sempronius,  or  where  the  force  of 
Mago  was  placed  in  ambuscade,  which 
so  greatly  contributed  to  that  disaster. 
It  is  probable,  however,  that,  Hannibal 
being  encamped  on  the  1.  bank,  the 
Bomans  *  attacked  him  nearly  on  the 
same  Spot  where,  by  a  similar  manoeu- 
vre, Macdonald,  2000  years  afterwards, 
made  a  last  efibrt  to  defeat  his  Bussian 
antagonist — about  5  m.  to  the  S.  of  4he 
modem  bridge.  The  battle  of  1746 
took  place  nearly  under  the  walls  of 
Piacenza,  the  great  feat  of  the  day 
being  Prince  Lichtenstein's  charge  on 
Maillebois'  columns  near  to  San  Laz- 
zaro.  The  battle-field  on  the  last  occa- 
sion (June  20,  1799),  between  the 
French  under   Macdonald,    and    the 


Austro-Bussians  commanded  by  Su- 
warrow, occupied  the  1.  bank  of  the 
river  from  Giignano  upwards  to  Bi- 
valta,  the  first  being  about  3  m.  on 
the  rt.  of  the  village  of  St.  Nicolo,  on 
the  post-road,  before  arriving  at  Maria 
Lomsa*s  bridge.  Macdonald,  being 
forced  to  retire  from  Tuscany,  crossed 
the  Apennines  into  the  upper  valley  of 
the  liebbia,  hoping  to  be  joined  by 
Moreau,  then  in  the  Gtenoese  territory. 
Suwarrow,  however,  managed,  by  ma 
great  activity,  to  prevent  this  junc- 
tion, and  to  place  himself  between 
the  two  Bepublican  armies.  Attacked 
by  Macdonald  during  3  days,  he  op- 
posed to  him  an  energetic  resistance, 
the  whole  ending  by  one  of  the 
most  disastrous  defeats  that  the  Be- 
publican armies  of  France  had  yet 
Experienced.  ^ 

Soon  after  crossing  the  bridge  the 
spires  of  Piacenza  come  into  view,  and 
tne  rly.,  after  running  along  the  half- 
ruined  walls  of  the  city,  and  the  elegant 
ch.  of  La  Madonna  della  Campagna  on 
the  rt.,  reaches  the  Stat.,'  situated  at 
the  E.  extremity  of  the  city,  near  to  the 
Porta  di  S.  Lazzaro. 
9  kil.  Piacenza  Stat.  (See  Bte.40.) 
Hotels :  La  Croce  Bianca,  and  San 
Marco.  Omnibuses  to  the  different 
hotels. 


BOUTE  8. 

TTTBIN  TO  KICE,  BY  CXTNEO  JOSTJ)  THE 
COL  DI  TENDA. 

231  kil.  =7 148  m. 


KIL. 

Caneo 8T 

(By  diligence) 
Bobillante   .    .    .101 


] 

KIL. 

Turin  Qyy  raU)  to      | 

Trofarello    .    .    . 

13 

VUUBtellone    .    . 

20 

Gannagnola .    .    . 

29 

BaocoDigl     .    .    . 

38 

Cavalier  Maggiore. 

45 

Savigliano  .    .    . 

52 

Foesano   .... 

64 

Maddalena  .    .    . 

71 

Gentallo  .... 

16 

Linaone  . 
Tenda.  . 
Oiandola . 
SoBpello  . 
Scarena  . 
Nice    .    . 


.  116 
.  146 
.  165 
.  186 
.  208 
.  231 


By  Bailway  as  far  as  Cuneo.    There 
are  4  trains  a  day :  they  perform  the 


Piedmont. 


Route  8. — Cangnaruh^Carmagnola, 


59 


joTimey  in  about  2J  h.  The  diligence 
lor^Nice  starts  on  the  arrival  of  the 
evening  train,  which  leaves  Turin  at  5 
p.m.  in  winter,  and  at  6f  p.m.  in  sum- 
mer, reaching  Nice  about  7  p.m.  on  the 
day  following.  The  malleposte  leaves 
Cimeo  at  11  p.m.,  arriving  at  Nice  at 
7  p.m.  next  day  :  fares  firom  Ouneo  25 
and  23  fi*ancs. 

The  railway  follows  the  line  from 
Turin  to  Gtenoa  as  far  as 

13  kil.  Trofa/rello  Stat. 

7kil.  Villastellone  Stat.,  at  the  junc- 
tion of  the  Molinasso  and  Stellone  tor- 
rents.    A  road  of  about  6  m.  leads  from* 
this  Stat.,  crossing  the  Po,  to 

{^Cari^fnanoy  a  town  of  7800  Inhab., 
not  for  from  the  river,  and  on  the  high 
carriage-road    from    Turin   to  J^^ice. 
The  country  around  is  beautiful,  dotted 
with    villages,    towns,    and    hamlets. 
Much  silk  is  produced  in  the  vicinity. 
The  principal  ornaments  of  this  little 
(nty  are  its  churches ;  and  the  Carig- 
nanesi  are  said  to  be  distinguished  for 
the  care  bestowed  upon  their  places 
of  worship.     San  Gftovanni  Batistay 
built  by  Count  Alfieri,     The  principal 
&gade  is  noble.     The  entrance  of  the 
building  is  lighted  almost  entirely  from 
above,  by  windows    placed  over  the 
cornice.     The  bas-reliefs  of  the  four 
doctors  of  the  church,  St.  Chrysostom, 
St.  Jerome,  St.  Ambrose,  and  St.  Au- 
gustine, come  out  under  the  glaring 
rays.      Sta.  Maria  delle  Grazie,  an- 
nexed to  a  monastery  of  Franciscan 
friars.    It  was  endowed  bv  the  Duchess 
BiancaPalseologuSjWife  of  Duke  Charles 
I.,  and  contains  her  monument.    She 
was  the  daughter  of  William  IV.  Mar- 
quis of  Montferrat;  as  a  widow,  Bianca 
was   distinguished  for  her  gentilezza 
and  beauty;    and  Bayard,  who  had 
been   brought  up  as   a  youth  in  the 
household  of  the  duke,  gained  great 
honour  in  a  tournament  held  before  her 
in  this  place  when  she  was  becoming 
advanced  in  years.    After  many  muta- 
tions Carignano  was  severed  from  the 
rest  of  Piedmont,  or  rather  from  the 
marquisate  of  Susa,  and  granted  as  an 
appanage,  with  the  title  of  a  principality, 
to  Thomas,    second  son    of   Charles 


Emanuel  I.,  from  whom  the  present 
reigning  family  of  Sardinia  is  de- 
scended.] 

9  kil.  Carmagnola  Stat,  contains  up- 
wards of  13,000  Inhab.     The  principal 
church  is  that  of  Sanii*  Agostino,     It 
b  Gothic,  though  much  altered.    The 
Campanile,  with  ifcs  pointed  spire,  is  the 
most  unchanged  portion.  In  the  cloister 
annexed  to  the  church  are  the  remains 
of  the  tomb    of   James    Tumbull,  a 
Scottish  condottiere  in  the  French  ser- 
vice, who  died  here  when  the  army  was 
returning  from  Naples  in  1496.     The 
collegiate  church  of  San  IHetro  e  San 
Paolo  is  also  Gh>thic,  but  more  altered 
than  the  other ;  it  was  consecrated  in 
the  year  1514.     Carmagnola  stood  on 
the  extreme  frontier  of  the  marquisate 
of  Saluzzo,  and,  as  the  border  town, 
was  defended  by  a  very  strong  castle,  of 
which  only  one  massive  tower  remains, 
now  forming  the  steeple  of  the  church 
of  San  Mlippo.  The  walls  are  upwards 
of  7  feet  in  thickness.    It  was  built  in 
1435 ;  and  the  city,  when  the  marquis 
required  an  aid,  gave  him  his  choice, 
300,000  bricks  or  300  ducats.     Bricks 
now  cost  in  Piedmont  35  fr.  per  thou- 
sand.    The  female  peasantry  in  and 
about  Carmagnola  are  gaily  dressed, 
wearing  round    their  necks   rows    of 
large  metal  beads,  often  of  gold,  which 
are  manufactured  in  the  town.    The 
name  of  Carmagnola  is  associated  with 
the  horrible  orgies  of  the  French  de- 
volution, though  no  one  can  explain 
exactly  how.     The  inhabitants,  most 
sturdily  disclaim  the  disgrace  of  being 
the  inventors  of  the    too    celebrated 
"  Danse  de  la  Carmagnole,"  the  pre- 
lude to  so  many  fearful  tragedies. 

Here  was  bom,  in  1390,  the  celebrated 
condottiere,  Francesco  Bussone,theson 
of  a  poor  herdsman,  who  became  so 
renowned  under  the  name  of  Conte  di 
Carmagnola,  which  he  assumed  frx>m 
his  birthplace.  He  began  his  career  ia 
the  service  of  Filippo  Maria  Visconti, 
Duke  of  Milan,  and,  rapidly  rising  in 
power,  he  served  his  master  most  effec- 
tually, regaining  a  great  part  of  Lom- 
bardy  and  of  the  dominions  of  GKo- 
vanni  Gbleazzo,  which  had  escaped  from 


60 


MotUe  8. — JRacconigi — Cuneo. 


Sect.  \i 


his  successor.  Suspicions  of  his  loy- 
alty were  entertained  by  the  duke; 
Carmagnola  was  unthankfiiilly  banished, 
his  property  confiscated,  his  wife  and 
children  cast  into  prison,  whilst  he 
passed  into  the  service  of  the  republic 
of  Venice,  by  which  he  was  appointed 
generalissimo.  He  conquered  Brescia 
for  it  firom  the  Duke  of  Milan;  and 
fit  the  battle  of  Macalo,  1427,  he  en- 
tirely routed  the  ducal  army.  But  the 
aristocracy  of  Yenice,  as  suspicious  as 
the  despot  of  Milan,  also  distrusted 
the  soldier  bound  by  no  tie  of  allegi- 
ance ;  and  having  seduced  him  to  Ye- 
nice by  a  vote  of  thanks  and  confi- 
dence, he  was  cast  into  prison,  tortured, 
and  beheaded  on  the  5th  May,  1432. 
"  between  the  two  columns "  in  the 
Piazzetta  of  San  Maroo, 

9  kil.  Racconigi  {8t<U),  Pleasantly 
situated,  and  in  the  days  of  Trissino 
was  famed  for  the  beauty  of  its  women. 


<f 


E  quel  dl  Scarnafeaso  e  Racconigi, 
Ch  han  bellissime  donne." 


The  palace  of  Bacconigi  is  one  of 
the  country  residences  of  the  royal 
family.  It  was  given  as  an  appanage 
by  Charles  Emmanuel  1.  to  his  son 
Thomas,  the  head  of  the  branch  of  Ca- 
rignan  of  the  house  of  Savoy,  in  whose 
possession  it  has  since  remained.  It 
was  the  favourite  sojourn  of  the  late 
king,  Charles  Albert,  by  whom  it  im- 
derwent  great  repairs,  and  is  now  one 
of  the  moat  conrfortable  villegiaturas 
of  the  royal  family.  The  small  park 
which  surroimds  it  is  handsomely  laid 
out.  Following  the  rt.  bank  of  the 
riyer  Maira  is 

7  kil.  Cavalier  Maggiore  Junct.  Stat., 
a  large  and  flourishing  town  of  5300 
Inhab.,  formerly  fortified ;  but  there  is 
hardly  a  vestige  of  the  two  castles  and 
the.  lofty  walls  which  once  surrounded 
it.  A  Bly.  branches  off  from  here  to 
Bra  and  Alessandria  (p.  51). 

7  kil.  Savigliano  Junct,  Stat.  (Inn : 
the  Corona,  tolerably  comfortable),  a 

Eleasant  and  cheeiriFul  town ;  14,500  In- 
ab.  In  the  ch.  are  several  paintings  by 
Molinieri,  a  native  artist  of  the  17th 
centy.,  a  scholar  of  the  Carracci  j  others 


are  in  the  Palazzo  Taffino,  representing 
the  battles  of  C.  Emanuel  I.  The  prin- 
cipal street  terminates  in  a  species  of 
triumphal  arch,  erected  in  honour  of 
the  marriage  between  Yictor  Amadeo 
and  Christina  of  France.  A  branch 
strikes  off  from  Savigliano  to  Saluzzo, 
passing  by  Lagnasco,  in  25  min. 

12  kil.  Fossano—Stat.   See  Kte.  10. 

7  kil.  La  Maddalena — StcU.,  in  the 
middle  of  the  plain  between  the  Stura 
and  the  Grana. 

4  kiL  Centallo,  4900  Inhab. ;  also  a 
large  place  in  the  midst  of  a  fertile 
though  not  a  healthy  country :  remains 
of  walls  and  towers  mark  its  import- 
ance in  the  middle  ages.  Koman  in- 
scriptions are  found  on  the  site;  but, 
as  is  generally  the  case  in  the  north  of 
Italy,  there  is  nothing  above  ground  to 
prove  its  antiquity. 

12  kil.  Ouneo  or  Coni,  1500  ft.  above 
the  sea  {Inn :  the  Barre  de  Fer,  « 
dismal  and  dirty  auberge :  there  is  an- 
other, the  H.  de  Londres,  said  to  be  no 
better),  a  city  of  20,560  Inhab.,  situated 
between  the  Stura  and  Gte&so  torrents, 
at  their  junction.  Cuneo  was,  in  its 
origin,  a  species  of  city  of  refuge. 
About  the  year*  1100,  Bonifetce  Mar- 
quis of  Savoy  had  conquered,  or  rather 
occupied,  this  district,  which  formed 
a  part  of  the  marquisate  of  Susa ;  but 
his  authority,  hardly  strong  enough  to 
enable  him  to  retain  his  usurpation, 
was  entirely  inadequate  to  enforce  the 
observance  of  'the  laws,  or  to  ensure 
tranquilhty ;  and  the  lords  of  the  ad- 
joining castles  so  plundered  the  inha- 
bitants of  the  surrounding  coimtry,  that 
they  determined  upon  resistance. 

Such  outrages,  a  few  centuries 
later,  gave  rise  to  the  republics  of 
Switzerland  and  the  Ghisons;  but 
Piedmont  was  not  yet  ripe  for  a  re- 
volution. The  people  came  together 
under  the  colour  of  a  pilgrimage  to  a 
sanctuary  of  the  Yirgin,  called  Our 
Lady  of  the  Wood,  now  included 
in  the  city ;  and  there  determined  to 
take  vengeance,  i^  as  usual,  any  of 
their  wives  and  daughters  were  in- 
sulted by  the  petty  tyrants  of  the 
surrouncUng  castles.    The  anticipated 


PiBDMOirr.         Moide  8. — Cumo — Saths  of  Vatdkri. 


61 


cause  of  offence  was  soon  given;  the 
peasants  assembled  again,  destroyed  the 
castles,  slew  the  oppressors,  and,  re- 
treating in  a  body  to  the  present  site 
of  the  city,  a  wedge'liJce  piece  of  land 
between  the  two  rivers,  they  began  to 
biuld.  The  abbot  of  San  Dahnazzo,  to 
whom  the  woods  belonged,  gladly  per- 
mitted a  settlement  which  gave  him 
the  prospect  of  snch  a  numerous  vassal- 
age ;  and  the  **  nuova  viUa  di  Ctmeo " 
rapidly  rose  into  consequence.  In  the 
16th  century  Cuneo  was  strongly  for- 
tified, and  its  history  from  then  is  a 
succession  of  sieges.  No  place  was  more 
celebrated  in  the  mihtary  history  of 
Piedmont,  imtil  1800,  when,  after  the 
battle  of  Marengo,  the  three  consuls 
decreed,  on  the  5th  July,  that  the  for- 
tifications of  Cuneo,  the  citadels  of 
Milan  and  Tortona,  the  fortress  of 
Oeva,  and  the  gates  and  bastions  of 
Turin,  should  slLI  be  destroyed;  and, 
before  the  end  of  the  month,  those 
massy  girdles  of  Cuneo  were  riven  from 
their  foundations,  to  the  great  com- 
fort and  advantage  of  the  inhabitants. 
The  Duomo,  or  cathedral,  of  Coni  is 
the  ancient  sanctuary  of  the  '^  Madonna 
del  Bosco,"  but  it  offers  nothing  re- 
markable beyond  its  historical  inte- 
rest. The  picture  of  St.  John  and 
St.  Michael,  over  the  chief  altar,  is 
by  the  Jesuit  P.  Pozzi.  San  Mran- 
cescoy  belonging  to  a  Capuchin  con- 
vent :  a  regular  Gothic  church  of  the 
12th  centuiy,  said  to  have  been  built 
in  the  time  of  the  saiat  himself.  It 
is  remarkable  that  the  Franciscans, 
both  in  Italy  and  beyond  the  Alps,  em- 
♦  ployed  the  Gothic  style  of  architecture 
more  than  the  other  religious  orders. 
Cuneo  suffered  much  from  the  cholera 
in  1835,  and  amongst  its  numerous 
charitable  establishments  is  one  for  the 
reception  of  the  children  who  were  de- 
prived of  their  parents  by  the  disease. 
At  first  there  were  200.  There  is  a 
pleasant  public  walk  at  the  junction  of 
the  Gksso  and  Stura. 

[In  the  Alpine  valley  of  the  Pesio, 
about  10  m.  from  Coni,  is  the  Certosa 
of  Val  Pesio,  founded  in  1173,  in  a 
very  picturesque  situation.    An  hydro- 


pathic establishment  has  lately  been 
formed  there  by  Dr.  Brandeis,  on  the 
Graffenberg  or  Preisnitz  system.  The 
situation  is  represented  as  very  salu- 
brious, and  the  water,  which  is  in 
abundance,  is  excellent.  In  the  Yal  di 
Gesso  are  the  baths  of  Valdieri,  now 
much  resorted  to.  These  waters  are 
similar  in  their  properties  to  those  of 
Aix  in  Savoy  j  from  their  increasing  re- 
pute, a  new  establishment,  by  a  joint- 
stock  company  formed  at  Turin,  to  ac- 
commodate 400  or  500  persons,  has 
been  partially  opened.  Valdieri  is  25 
m.  or  5  hrs.  distant  from  Cuneo,  from 
which  carriages  start  twice  every  day 
for  the  Baths,  (^uring  the  season,  from 
the  middle  of  June  until  the  end  of 
August.  There  are  hot  springs  which 
are  used  for  the  baths,  and  a  shghtly 
saline  tepid  one,  called  Acqua  Magn^' 
siaca,  which  some  patients  use  inter- 
nally; but  it  appears  that  the  most 
efficacious  remedy  supphed  by  nature 
arises  from  a  cryptogamic  plant  {Ulva 
labyrirUhiformis)  which  grows  in  thick 
gelatinous  masses  in  the  streams  from 
the  hot  springs  at  a  temperature  of 
185°  Fahr.  This  substance,  called  Le 
Muffigf  is  applied,  while  hot,  to  wounds, 
and  in  cases  of  internal  inflammation, 
and  is  frequently  found  to  be  very  effi- 
cacious. Yaldieri  has  great  natural  ad- 
vantages, being  situated  in  the  finest 
part  of  the  chain  of  the  Maritime  Alps, 
whose  jagged  granitic  peaks,  the  Monte 
Matto  and  Monte  delta  Stella,  rise  on 
either  side  to  the  height  of  10,230  ft. 
above  the  sea-level.  The  climate  is 
cool,  and  sometilnes  even  cold  in  the 
height  of  summer,  owing  to  the  great 
elevation,  the  village  being  2495  ft.  and 
the  Baths  4425  ft.  above  the  sea ;  and 
it  is  the  resort  of  good  Piedmontese 
society.  Up  to  the  present  time  the  ac- 
commodation has  been  indifferent,  and 
the  charges  for  lodging  high .  Two  meals 
are  supplied  daily  at  the  table-d'hdte 
— charge  5  fr. ;  attendance  indifferent. 
The  shooting  of  chamois^  &c.,  in  this 
district  is  reserved  exclusively  for  the 
king,  who  frequently  pitches  his  tent  in 
the  valleys  adjoining.  The  road  from 
Cuneo  to  Valdieri,  which  passes  throup' 


62 


}lout$  8. — Linume. 


Sect.  L 


Borgo  San  Balmazzo,  .has  been  ex- 
tended to  the  Baths. 

The  pedestrian  maj  make  various 
excursions  firom  the  Baths  of  Yaldieri 
through  the  range  of  the  Maritime 
Alps.  Perhaps  the  most  interesting 
will  be  that  to  San  Martino  di  Lan- 
tosca,  on  the  S.  side  of  the  chain.  This 
may  be  reached  in  seven  or  eight  hours 
by  the  pass  of  JLa  Fretna  Morta  (8840 
ft.  above  the  sea),  or  in  a  shorter  time 
over  the  Col  delle  Oerese,  but  by  a 
steeper  and  rougher  track  over  snow 
and  rocks.  The  aspect  of  the  inn  at 
San  Martino  is  very  discouraging ;  but 
a  clean  bed  and  tolerable  fare  may  be 
had  there  as  at  most  of  the  villages  in 
these  valleys. 

From  San  Martino  di  Lantosca  the 
tourist  may  return  to  Entraque,  on 
the  N.  side  of  the  chain,  by  the  Col 
delle  Finegtre,  and  thence  regain  the 
carriage-road  to  the  Baths  a  little 
above  the  village  of  Valdieri ;  or  else, 
sleeping  at  the  httle  inn  on  the  S.  side 
of  the  Col  delle  Finestre,  he  may  make 
his  way  to  Tenda  through  a  wild  part 
of  the  range ;  but  this  will  probably  be 
a  long  day's  walk.  It  is  also  practicable 
to  cross  the  mountains  which  separate 
the  valley  of  the  Vesubia  from  ttiat  of 
the  Roja,  ascending  from  Rocca  Bi- 
ghera  or  Bollena,  descending  into  the 
Val  di  Caros,  and  sleeping  at  Saorgio, 
or  at  the  little  village  of  Fontano,  on  the 
high  road  to  Tenda,  2  m.  N.  of  Saor- 
gio. These  valleys  may  equally  well 
be  visited  from  Nice,  and  would  offer  a 
resource  to  many  a  sufferer  from  the 
heat  and  dust  of  that  city.] 

The  Rly.  for  the  present  ending  at 
Cuneo,  the  rest  of  the  journey  must  be 
performed  by  the  ordinary  road,  which, 
on  leaving  the  town,  ascends  gradually, 
offering  much  beauty. 

Borgo  di  8cm  Dalmazzoy  a  village, 
supposed  to  be  the  remains  of  the  city 
of  Pedone,  destroyed  by  the  Milanese 
in  1250.  4  m.  after  leaving  Cuneo  the 
post-road  enters  the  valley  of  the  Ver- 
managna,  along  which  it  runs  to  the 
bottom  of  the  Col  di  Tenda. 

14  kil.  Sohillante.  (An  extra  horse 
from  Cuneo  to  Robillante  from  the 


Ist  of  Nov.  to  the  1st  of  May,  but  not 
in  the  opposite  direction.)  Hitherto 
the  road  has  {Massed  through  the  great 
plain  of  Piedmont,  watered  by  the  Po, 
the  Maira,  the  Grana,  apd  the  Stura ; 
but  it  now  enters  the  mountains  and 
begins  to  ascend,  and  the  noble  masses 
of  the  maritime  Alps,  crowned  by  the 
Monte  Viso,  more  than  12,000  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea,  become  more 
clearly  visible.  The  plains  themselves 
are  very  fertile,  and  nothing  can  be 
more  beautiful  than  the  Uttle  streams 
by  which  they  are  irrigated  and  crossed. 
The  hills  abound  with  bright  and  aro- 
matic  flowers. 

15  kil.  Lvnume,  8340  feet  above  the 
sea.  (An  extra  horse  from  Bobillante 
to  Limone  fi^m  Nov.  Ist  to  May  Ist, 
but  not  in  the  opposite  direction.) 
Inn:  the  H6tel  de  la  Poste;  a  civU 
and  obliging  landlord.  The  traveller 
hence  ascends  rapidly,  and  by  a  good 
alpine  road,  though  constructed  with 
less  skill  than  those  of  more  recent 
date.  The  abrupt  turns  of  the  terraces 
are  often  almost  alarming  in  their 
aspect,  nor  are  they  so  well  defended 
as  coiild  be  wished.  The  dang^,  or 
rather  the  semblance  of  it,  is,  of  course, 
more  felt  in  the  descent  fix>m  Nice.  The 
difficulty  is  greater  this  way.  About  half 
way  from  the  summit  an  attempt  was 
made  by  the  former  princes  of  Savoy,  and 
continued  down  to  the  French  occupa- 
tion in  1794,  to  bore  a  tunnel  through 
the  mountain,  and  thus  avoid  altoge- 
ther the  passage  over  its  crest.  If 
completed,  it  would  have  been  more 
than  a  mile  and  a  half  long,  and  would 
have  surpassed  any  similar  work  in  the 
Alps.  The  summit  is  a  narrow  ridge, 
6158  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 
It  commands  a  very  fine  view  of  the 
Alps,  from  Monte  Viso  to  Monte 
Rosa,  the  latter  appearing  like  a  cloud; 
while,  on  the  south,  the  Mediter- 
ranean may  be  faintly  discovered. 
During  more  than  three  months  in  the 
year,  and  not  unfrequently  during  five, 
the  Col  di  Tenda  is  impassable  iot 
wheel  carriages,  though  it  can  always 
be  crossed  by  sledges,  and  generally  by 
mules,  provided  there  be  no  storms; 


PlfiDMONT. 


Soide  8. — Tenda — Ciandota, 


63 


for  the  wind  is  so  violent  that  the  mules 
themselves  can  hardly  keep  their  foot- 
ing, and  are  compelled  to  wind  round  a 
more  sheltered  path.  The  descent  on 
the  S.  side  is  by  a  succession  of  75  zig- 
zags from  the  house  of  refiige  near  the 
summit. 

^  SOkil.  Tenda  (2680  ft.),  at  the  south- 
em  foot  of  the  Col  (between  Limone  and 
Tenda  an  extra  horse  both  ways  all 
the  year)  •  2600  Inhab.  (Inns :  Hdtel 
Eoyal ;  H6tel  National,  dirty.)  Tenda 
is  an  excellent  station  for  sketching  and 
fishing.  It  is  a  place  of  much  note  in 
the  feudal  history  of  Italy.  From  the 
family  of  Facino  Cane  it  became  vested 
in  the  unfortunate  Beatrice  di  Tenda, 
the  luckless  wife  of  FiHppo  Maria  Vis- 
conti,  by  whose  commands  she  was 
cruelly  tortured  and  condemned  to 
death.  (See  Binasco,  p.  231.)  There 
are  some  picturesque  remains  of  the 
castle. 

The  road  from  Tenda  is  amongst  the 
earliest  of  the  alpine  roads.  It  was 
made  by  Carlo  Emanuele  I.,  1591 ;  and 
improved  in  1780  by  Vittore  Amadeo 
III.,  as  is  commemorated  in  two  in- 
scriptions near  its  commencement.  Fine 
scenery  and  good  chamois-hunting  in 
■^the  mountain-range  W,  of  the  Col  di 
Tenda. 

3  m.  after  leaving  Tenda  is  the 
Abbey  of  S.  DaJmazzOy  recently  con- 
verted into  a  Pension  or  Hotel,  much 
frequented  during  the  summer  heats,  its 
climate  being  cool  from  its  great  eleva- 
tion, and  the  "accommodation  excellent 
(6  to  8  frs.  a  day,  everything  included) ; 
the  situation  is  beautiful,  and  the 
neighbourhood  abounds  in  picturesque 
scenery." — J>.  P.,  Sept.  1865.  About 
3  hours'  walk  from  S.  Dalmazzo  are 
some  lead-mines,  at  the  foot  of  Mon- 
hego,  one  of  the  highest  peaks  of 
the  Maritime  Alps,  which  is  easily  as- 
cended, and  from  which  the  view  over 
the  Mediterranean  and  the  plains  of 
Piedmont  and  Lombardy  is  splendid, 
embracing  Turin,  Favia,  Milan,  and 
the  snowy  Alps  beyond.  Beyond 
San  Dalmazzo  the  road  becomes  ex- 
ceedingly striking,  with  alpine  scenery 
of   peculiar    boldness,    and    by    the 


side  is  the  Boya,  a  torrent  scarcely 
leaving  room  for  a  carriage  to  pass. 
Wherever  the  rocks  fall  back  ever  so 
httle  out  of  the  perpendicular — «nough 
to  allow  the  possibihty  of  raising  a 
waU — you  see  a  little  village  in  the 
cleft,  Uke  the  nest  of  a  bird.  The 
finest  of  these  savage  defiles  of  the 
Roja  is  below  Saorgio,  a  town  of  2600 
Inhab.,  where  a  fort,  perched  upon  a 
rocky  knoll,  commands  the  passage  of 
the  gorge.  It  was  taken  by  the  French 
in  the  campaign  of  1794.  The  Boya 
abounds  with  excellent  trout.  A  new 
road  from  San  Dalmazzo  to  Yentimiglia, 
along  the  Roya,  will  pass  through  most 
beautiful  scenery,  and  will  enable  the 
traveller  to  reach  La  Riviera,  the  rly.  to 
Genoa,  and  to  proceed  into  Central 
Italy  without  entering  the  French 
territory.  The  upper  portion  of  this 
valley  remains  in  the  hands  of  the 
ItaUans;  but  the  strong  position  of 
Saorgio  and  the  valley  of  the  Roja  is 
occupied  by  the  French.  The  French 
Custom-house  Stat,  is  at  Fontano,  on 
the  N.  side  of  the  pass  of  Saorgio. 

19  kil.  Oiandola,  near  the  boun- 
dary between  Piedmont  and  France, 
the  first  French  village  in  the 
county  of  Nice,  1250  feet  above  the 
sea.  (From  Giandola  to  Tenda  an 
extra  horse  all  the  year,  but  not  vice 
versd.)  Inns:  H6tel  des  Etrangers 
affords  decent  accommodation,  and  a 
civil  landlady ;  Hdtel  de  la  Poste,  said 
to  be  good.  The  town'  is  grandly 
situated  at  the  foot  of  high  schistose 
rocks,  which  look  as  if  they  were  on 
the  point  of  crushing  the  inhabitants. 
The  road  has  been  recently  altered, 
and  leaves  on  the  1.  Breglio,  a  town  of 
2500  Inhab.,  near  which  are  the  ruins 
of  the  castle  of  Trivella ;  and  ascends 
the  mountain  of  Brouis  by  a  very  steep 
road,  about  1500  ft.,  to  the  pass  of  the 
same  name,  the  sides  of  which  are 
covered  with  wild  lavender. 

21  kil.  Sospello,  1175  ft.  above  the  sea 
(between  Giandola  and  Sospello  an  extra 
horse  both  ways  all  the  year — Inn: 
H6tel  Carenco,  said  to  be  the  best 
between  Turin  and  Nice),  4300  In- 
hab., is  the  sleeping-place  for  travellers 


64 


lloute  9. — Turin  to  Onegtta  hy  Cherasco, 


Sect.  1. 


by  Tetturino.  Its  situation  is  rery 
beautiful.  Through  it  rushes  the  Be- 
yera,  a, roaring  mountain  stream;  and 
all  around  rise  the  mountains  out  of  an 
exceedingly  fertile  plain.  The  valley 
aboimds  in  thick  woods  of  olives  and 
figs.  The  Bevera  forms  a  junction 
with  the  Roya  about  4  m.  before  enter- 
ing the  sea  at  Yintimiglia.  A  cross 
road  branches  off  from  Sospello  to  Vin- 
timiglia,  by  the  ravines  of  the  Bevera 
and  Boya;  and  another  to  Mentone, 
nearly  completed,  by  the  pass  (elevation 
2400  ft.)  and  the  valley  of  Carei :  by 
this  new  route  travellers  wiU  reach 
Mentone  in  as  short  a  time  as  Nice,  and 
through  a  very  picturesque  country. 

The  road  commences  to  ascend  from 
the  inn  door  at  Sospello  until  we  pass 
the  Col  di  Braus,  3300  feet  above  the 
sea.  In  the  autumn  a  good  deal  of 
lavender-water  is  made  on  the  sides  of 
this  mountain  by  the  peasantry,  whose 
rude  apparatus  for  that  purpose,  which 
you  see  on  the  road-sides,  is  curious. 

22  kil.  Scarena  (between  Sospello 
and  Scarena,  an  extra  horse  both  ways 
all  the  year),  2000  Inhab.  After  cross- 
ing another  hill  we  descend  along  the 
Escarena,  one  of  the  tributaries  of  the 
Paghone,  which  is  followed  to  Nice, 
and  to  the  full  luxuriance  of  the  B>i- 
viera,  passing  by  the  villages  of  Palla- 
rea,  Drap,  and  La  Trinita. 

23  kil.  Nice  (from  Nice  to  Scarena 
an  extra  horse  all  the  year,  but  not  vice 
versd).     (Rte,  13.) 


ROUTE  9. 

TUEIN  TO  ONEGLLi,  BY  BEA,  CHEBiilCO, 
ALBA,  AND   CEVA. 

Distance  about  107  m.  The  first 
part  of  this  road,  is  now  performed  by 
Kly.  as  far  as  Brd,  58  kil.,  -whence  a 
railroad  is  in  progress  as  far  as  Che- 
rasco:. beyond  this  the  only  present 
mode  of  conveyance  is  by  vetturino, 
there  being  no  post  stations,  but  a  rail- 
way (the  direct  Savona  line)  is  in  ac- 
tive progress  to  Ceva.  Rly.  to  Alba, 
Nizza  di  Monferrato,  and  Alessandria. 

Bra,  or  Brauda,  12,500  Inhab. ;  in 
the  vale  of  the  Stura,  and  about  2  m. 
N.  of  it.  The  principal  object  of  in- 
terest in  this  town  is  the  church  of 
Sta.  Chia/ray  built  in  1742  by  Vettone. 
It  is  in  the  most  luxxiriant  style  of  the 
Piedmontese  churches.  A  fine  avenue 
leads  to  the  Santuario  di  nostra  X>onn<i 
de^  Mori.  According  to  the  legend,  a 
miraculous  appearance  of  the  Virgin  in 
the  copse  hard  by,  on  the  29th  Decem- 
ber, 1336,  was  the  means  of  rescuing  a 
peasant  girl  from  the  daggers  of  assas- 
sins ;  since  which  event  the  sloe-bushes 
with  which  the  copse  abounds  are  said 
to  flower  three  times  in  the  year — in 
spring,  autunm,  and  the  depth  of 
winter.  It  is  yet  much  resorted  to, 
especially  on  the  8th  of  September,  the 
feast  of  the  Nativity  of  the  Yirgin. 

2  m.  S.E.  of  Br^,  on  the  1.  bank  of 
the  Tanaro,  is  JPollenzo,  a  castle  and  a 
village,  replacing  the  Roman  munici- 
pium  oiPoUentia,  Here  the  armies  of 
the  Triumvirate  frequently  assembled. 
It  was  celebrated  for  its  wool,  as  well 
as  for  its  manufactures  of  terra-cotta^ 
praised  by  Pliny  as  being  scarcely  in- 
ferior to  those  of  Samos.  In  the  age 
of  the  Antonines  PoUentia  was  very 
flourishing ;  and  it  is  supposed  that  the 
edifices,  of  which  there  are  still  con- 
siderable vestiges,  belonged  to  that  era. 
An  amphitheatre  and  a  theatre  can  be 
distinguished ;  and  the  walls  of  both 
are  still  standing  to  a  considerable 
height.    Upon  the  ridges  of  the  Colle 


PlEDMOXT. 


Soute  9, — Mha — Cherasoo. 


66 


di  San  Yittorio  are  the  ruins  of  four 
small  edifices,  called  by  the  peasants  the 
^^Fttrilie"  supposed  by  antiquaries  to  be 
the  ruins  of  a  temple  of  Diana,  and  the 
buildings  which  were  annexed  thereto. 
On  the  old  road  to  Alba  are  the  sup- 
posed remains  of  the  Yilla  Martis,  the 
birthplace  of  the  Emperor  Fertinax, 
who  together  with  his  fother  carried  on 
what  we  should  call  an  earthenware 
manufactory.  Hard  by  is  a  field  called 
"Cvupelle"  of  which  the  ground  is  quite 
covered  with  fragments  of  earthenware, 
the  confirmation  (or  perhaps  the  origin) 
of  the  opinion  by  which  the  spot  is 
identified.  FoUenzo  was  erected  into  a 
county  by  Wenzel  or  Wenceslaus  (the 
emperor  who  was  deposed  by  the  elect- 
ors in  consequence  of  his  sluggishness 
and  vice))  in  &your  of  Antonio  Firro,  a 
condottiere,  who  had  served  under  Ga- 
leazzo  Yisconti  of  Milan  in  1383 ;  and 
with  the  assent  of  the  Antipope,  Cle- 
ment, he  erected,  in  1385,  a  castle  upon 
the  site  of  a  monastery.  Most  of  this 
building  is  standing,  and  it  is  exceed- 
ingly picturesque,  with  its  overhanging 
machicolations  and  lofty  dungeon  tower. 
It  has  lately  been  fitted  up  and  judi- 
ciously restored,  and  is  a  favourite  re- 
sidence of  the  present  king.  A  rail- 
way branches  off  from  Br^  to  Ales- 
sandria, and  proceeding  along  the  1. 
bank  of  the  Tanaro,  by  San  Yittorio, 
leads  to 

XAlha  (Alba  Fompeia),  a  very  ancient 
episcopal  town  of  8500  Inhab.,  on  the 
rt.  bank  of  the  Tanaro,  where  the 
Querazza  empties  itself  into  it.  The 
town  is  in  a  plain,  surrounded  by 
very  fertile  hills,  producing  much  wine 
and  sOk.  The  Cathedral,  dedicated  to 
San  Lorenzo,  and  founded  in  1486,  is 
attributed  to  Bramante,  and  contains 
in  its  choir  a  handsome  mausoleum  of 
the  founder,  Andrea  Kovelli.  Alba 
was  an  Imperial  fief,  granted  sucoes- 
siveb[  to  the  Counts  of  Saluzzo  and 
the  Yiscontis,  and  as  such  it  formed  a 
part  of  the  marriage-portion  given  by 
6Han  Galeazzo  to  his  daughter  Yio- 
lante  on  her  marriage  with  Lionel 
Duke  of  Clarence. 


BIy.  from  Alba  to  Asti  and  Casale, 
and  to  Alessandria,  the  latter  passing 
by  Kizza  di  Monferrato  and  Incisa.] 

The  road  from  Brd  continues  in  the 
plain  of  the  Stura ;  crossing  that  river 
3  m.  farther  to 

Cherasco  :  10,000  Inhab.  The  quad- 
rangular form  of  this  town  indicates 
its  position  upon  the  site  of  a  Boman 
town.  At  each  end  of  the  prmcipal 
street  is  a  fine  modem  arch.  Of 
the  five  churches,  three,  San  I^ietro/ 
San  Martina,  and  San  Qiorffio,  are 
Gothic ;  the  foiurth,  the  Madonna  del 
Popolo,  was  built  in  1693-1702.  Its 
interior  is  of  rustic  work,  and  heavy. 
It  has,  however,  a  good  cupola.  In 
the  Palazzo  del  Commune  are  some 
paintings  by  Torrico,  There  are  others 
in  the  Falazzo  Gotti.  They  are  scrip- 
tural and  historical;  in  the  landscape 
portion  Torrico  was  a  successful  imi- 
tator of  G.  Foussin. 

Numerous  organic  remains  are  found 
in  the  tertiary  marls  and  sands  m  this 
neighbourhood.  In  the  Colle  di  San 
Bartolomeo  is  petrified  wood.  The  for- 
tifications of  Cherasco,  once  exceedingly 
strong,  were  destroyed  by  the  French  in 
1801.  After  the  battle  of  Mondovi, 
April  22nd,  1796  (see  Btes.  10, 11),  the 
Fiedmontese  troops  fell  back  upon 
Cherasco,  and  made  a  show  of  resistance. 
Cherasco  was  well  provisioned,  and  in 
an  excellent  state  of  defence ;  but,  after 
very  few  shells  had  been  thrown  into 
the  town,  the  garrison  surrendered,  not 
without  suspicions  of  treachery.  The 
Sardinians  now  proposed  a  suspension 
of  arms;  and  on  the  28th  of  April 
their  commissioners  concluded  with 
Napoleon  the  **  armistice  of  Cherasco," 
by  which,  and  the  treaty  that  fol- 
lowed, the  King  of  Sardinia  renounced 
the  coalition  with  Austria;  ceded  to 
the  French  Bepubhc  Savoy,  Nice,  and 
the  whole  possessions  of  Fiedmont  to 
the  westward  of  the  highest  ridge  of 
the  Alps  (extending  from  Mount  St. 
Bernard  by  Mount  Genevre  to  Bocca- 
barbona  near  Genoa) ;  and  granted  a 
fr^e  passage  through  his  dominions  to 
the  troops  of  the  BepubUo. 

The  road,  which  here  enters  the  up- 


66 


Eoute  9 . — Ceva — Bagnasco —  Ormea. 


Sect.  I. 


per  yalley  of  the  Tanaro  as  far  an  Mon- 
ohiero,  now  passes  through 

18  kil.  Dogliani,  2000  Inhab.  ;  a 
village,  standing  partly  upon  the  banks 
of  the  Rea  torrent,  and  partly  upon 
a  bold  hill.  The  road  from  Dogliani  to 
Ceva  is  very  hilly.  About  6  m.  before 
arriving  at  the  latter,  at  Montezze- 
molo,  the  road  from  Turin  to  Savona, 
through  Millesimo  and.  the  Oadibona 
pass,  strikes  off  to  the  1.  (see  Bte.  12). 

There  is  a  road  from  Cherasco  to 
Fossano  (see  Rte.  10),  on  which  is  the 
town  of 

Bene^  upon  a  pleasant  riding  on  the 
Mondalavia torrent:  it  has  arisen  out  of 
the  ruins  of  the  ancient  Augusta  £a- 
giennorum,  destroyed  by  Alaric,  and  of 
which  many  interesting  vestiges  are 
found  at  JRoveglia,  about  half  a  mile  off. 
The  ruins  of  an  aqueduct,  amphitheatre, 
baths,  and  other  buildings,  extend  over 
a  considerable  tract  of  groimd.  To  the 
N.  of  Bene  is  the  district  of  Salmour, 
anciently  Sarmatia,  so  called  from  the 
Sarmatians  settled  there  during  the 
Lower  Empire,  who  had  a  Prerect  of 
their  own. 

22  kil.  Ceva,  a  town  of  4500  Inhab., 
on  the  rt.  bank  of  the  Tanaro :  the 
capital  of  the  marquisate  of  Ceva, 
whose  lords  held  rather  a  conspicuous 
place  in  the  history  of  this  part  of 
Italy.  They  traced  their  origin  to 
Aleramo,  the  hero  of  many  a  tradition- 
ary tale ;  but  the  first  of  whom  there  is 
any  real  account  is  Anselmo,  the  fourth 
son  of  Boni£eu;e  Marquis  of  Savona, 
about  1142.  The  place  is  much  de- 
cayed; and  recent  demoUtions  have 
deprived  it  of  all  its  feudal  towers.  The 
chief  feature  of  the  landscape  is  a  rock 
towering  above  the  town,  and  upon 
which  are  the  remains  of  the  dismantled 
citadel.  The  Piedmontese  cheese,  called 
Bobiole,  is  made  in  this  neighbour- 
hood. 

11  kil.  Bagnasco,  We  are  now  fairly 
entering  the  Maritime  Alps.  The 
mountains  surrounding  Bagnasco  are 
bold  and  picturesque,  and  the  streams 
and  torrents  are  limpid  and  beautiful. 
The  castle  was  destroyed  Iw.  *^®  Mare- 
chal  de  Brissac  in  1655.    The  ruins  of 


its  ancient  fortifications  are  fine,  spread- 
ing widely  above  and  around.  On  the 
E.  are  the  remains  attributed  to  the  Sa- 
racens :  it  is  recorded  that  the  present 
town  was  originally  built  with  the  ma- 
terials of  the  Saracenic  castle.  Accord- 
ing to  a  most  apocryphal  tradition, 
the  historian  Valerius  Maximus  was 
buried  here ;  and  a  stone,  with  the  in- 
scription "  Hie  jacet  Valerius,"  found, 
or  TtKtde  to  be  found,  has  been  adduced 
in  support  of  this  tradition.  It  is  now 
at  Turm. 

11  kil.  Garessio,  once  the  capital  of  a 
small  marquisate,  which,  in  1509,  was 
sold  to  the  Spinola  family.  It  is  nearly 
2000  feet  above  the  sea.  A  good  road, 
leading  from  Garessio  to  Albenga, 
crosses  the  Col  di  Bernardo  to  descend 
into  the  valley  of  the  Nerva. 

Hence  the  road  to  Oneglia  passes 
through  wild  and  picturesque  scenery, 
by  Ormea  and  the  Ponte  di  Nava,  where 
it  crosses,  for  the  last  time,  the  Tanaro. 
T^he  rocks  are  often  of  marble,  the  va- 
riety called  PersigUano  being  quarried 
here. 

The  source  of  the  ToTiaro  is  of  diffi- 
cult access,  but  the  path  is  practicable. 
The  mountain  from  which  it  rises  is 
called  the  Tanarelo;  the  rush  of  waters 
is  magnificent.  The  mountain  scenery 
of  this  part  of  the  Apennines  is  entirely 
distinct  in  character  from  the  Alps  on 
the  N.,  or  from  the  central  range 
further  S.  It  is  more  verdant  and 
luxuriant  than  either. 

Near  this  is  the  Cavern  of  Aleramo, 
where  he  and  Adelasio  took  refuge  with 
their  seven  sons,  who,  in  process  of 
time,  became  seven  marquises.  The 
traditions  of  this  country  deserve  quite 
as  much  attention  as  the  "Deutsche 
Sagen"  of  which  we  have  heard  so 
much  of  late  years. 

11  kil.  Ormea,  It  was  once  well  inha- 
bited, but,  having  been  nearly  depopu- 
lated by  the  plague  in  1630,  it  has  never 
recovered.  From  Ponte  di  Nava  the 
road  ascends  to  the  Col  of  the  same 
name,  the  culminating  point  of  the 
Apennines  on  this  road  (3150  ft.  above 
the  sea),  to  descend  into  the  valley  of 
the  Arrosia  at 


Piedmont.      BotUe  10,—  Turin  to  Onsglta,  hy  Mondovt, 


67 


20  kil.  Pievef  in  a  lonely  valley.  The 
mountains  around  are  singular  and  bold. 
I  The  principal  church  has  some  firescoes 
of  Luca  Cambiaso.  The  Arrosia,  which 
is  crossed  on  leaving  Pieve,  falls  into 
the  sea  at  Albenga. 
-  Pass  over  the  ColofSanBartolomeo, 
which  separates  the  waters  of  the  Arrosia 
and  Impera  torrents  :  along  the  1.  bank 
of  the  latter  a  wide  and  easy  road  leads 
to 

28  kil.  Oneglia,    (See  Rte.  13.) 


ROUTE  10. 

TFEIN  TO  ONEOLIA,  BY  IPOSSANO  AND 
MONDOVI. 

About  116  Eng.  m. ;  by  Rly.  as  far 
as  Fossano  (see  Rte.  8) ;  64s  kil. 
Like  the  last  route,  this  is  not  com- 
prised amongst  those  on  which  there 
are  post  relays  with  horses. 

Fossano,  on  the  1.  bank  of  the 
Stura,  the  seat  of  a  bishopric,  16,000 
Inhab.,  offers  a  very  beautiful  pro- 
spect from  without.  Seated  upon 
a  lofty  hill,  surrounded  by  ramparts, 
and  crowned  by  the  still  lofty  feudal 
castle,  it  is  as  fine  a  picture  as  can 
be  imagined.  Within,  it  is  singularly 
antique  and  gloomy.  The  houses 
stand  upon  ranges  of  arches,  which 
in  many  parts  are  so  low  that  you 
can  hardly  walk  through  them  up- 
right, contrasting  strongly  with  the 
very  charming  vr^ik  planted  with  trees 
which  surrounds  the  town.  It  is  said 
to  derive  its  name  from  some  salu- 
brious fountain,  Fonte  Sano,  in  its  vici- 
nity. The  city  was  founded  in  the  13th 
cent.,  by  the  inhabitants  of  the  villages  of 
the  adjoining  conutryj  burnt  during 
the  wars  of  the  Ghielphs  and  Gliibellines. 
Constantly  exposed  to  the  attacks  of 


the  Counts  of  Saluzzo  on  the  one  side  ^ 
and  of  Asti  on  the  other,  the  Fossanese 
ended  by  placing  themselves,  in  1314, 
under  the  protection  of  Philip  of  Sa- 
voy, Prince  of  Achaia.  The  cathe- 
dral is  a  fine  building  by  Q-uarini,  with 
some  decent  modem  paintings.  In  the 
Palazzo  Grimbaldi  are  frescoes  by  Gio- 
vanni Boetto,  who  was  also  a  good 
engraver.  Aiter  crossing  the  Stura, 
pass 

Za  Trinita,  a  village  of  2500  Inhab., 
the  head  of  a  very  ancient  barony. 

22  kil.  Mondovi,  on  the  rt.  bank  of 
the  Fllero,  1810  feet  above  the  sea, 
the  seat  of  a  bishop,  17,300  Inhab. 
A  portion  of  this  city  is  on  a  com- 
manding hill.  Here  are  the  cathedral 
of  San  Donato  and  the  principal  pubHc 
buildings.  The  three  other  portions, 
Brea,  Carazzone,  and  Piano,  are  partly 
on  the  side  of  the  hill  and  partly  in  the 
plain  below.  Mondovi  is  comparatively 
a  modem  city,  having  been  founded 
in  the  12th  century.  Like  Coni,  Fos- 
sano, and  several  other  of  the  Apennine 
towns,  Mondovi  was  a  city  of  refuge ; 
that  is  to  say,  built  by  the  inhabitants 
of  the  villages  of  the  open  country 
flying  from  the  contentions  of  Guelphs 
and  GhibeUines.  Near  Mondovi  is  the 
sanctuary  of  the  Madonna  di  Vico, 
This  church,  built  by  Vitozzi,  is  one  of 
the  innumerable  adaptations  of  themain 
idea  of  St.  Peter's.  In  one  of  the 
chapels  is  the  tomb  of  Charles  Emanuel 
I.,  who  died  at  Savighano  in  1630  j  it 
is  by  the  brothers  Cellini.  This  church 
has  been  a  favourite  place  of  pilgrimage 
of  many  Sovereigns  of  the  house  of 
Savoy ;  it  is  richly  decorated  by  royal 
and  private  munificence,  and  is  said  to 
have  cost  9,000,000  francs  (360,000Z.)  j 
it  has  only  been  recently  finished. 

It  is  said  that  the  people  assembled 
here  when  they  determined  to  abandon 
their  houses  and  to  found  the  new  city. 
They  governed  themselves  as  an  inde- 
pendent republic  until,  in  1396,  they 
submitted  to  Amadeo,  Prince  of  Achaia. 

Here,  22nd  April,  1796,  was  fought 
the  decisive  battle  between  Napoleon 
and  the  Sardinian  troops  under  Colli. 
The  Sardinians  occupied  this  strong 


68 


RoiUe  11. — Alessandria  to  Sawna, 


Sect.  L 


position,  while  Beaulieu,  with  the  Aus- 
trians  and  an  army  still  formidable, 
was  in  the  rear  of  the  French,  and 
might  have  resumed  offensive  opera- 
tions. The  French  therefore  determined 
to  renew  the  attack  on  the  following 
day,  but,  on  arriving  at  the  advanced 
posts  at  daybreak  they  found  them 
abalQdoned  by  the  Piedmontese,  who 
had  retired  in  the  night  to  Mondovi. 
Colli  was  overtaken,  however,  in  his 
retreat,  near  Mondovi,  by  the  inde- 
fatigable Victor,  who  had  seized  a 
strong  position,  where  hex  hoped  to 
arrest  the  enemy.  The  RepubKcans 
immediately  advanced  to  the  assault, 
attacked  and  carried  the  Redoubt  of  La 
Bicoque,  the  principal  defence  of  the 
position,  and  gained  a  decisive  victory. 
Colli  lost  2000  men,  eight  cannon,  and 
eleven  standards.  Great  as  the  loss  was, 
yet,  coming  in  accumulation  upon  the 
preceding  defeats,  the  moral  effect  was 
still  greater.  Colli  retreated  to  Che- 
rasco,  whither  he  was  followed  by 
Napoleon.  The  result  has  been  already 
told.     (See  Rte.  9.) 

In  1799  the  people  of  Mondovi  rose 
against  the  French.  This  offence  was 
cruelly  punished  by  Moreau,  whose 
troops  committed  acts  of  violence  such 
as  no  provocation  could  excuse. 

A  branch  line  is  projected  from  the 
Direct  Savona  Rly.  to  Mondovi. 

From  Mondovi  the  road  ascends  to 
the  village  of  Vico,  and  descends  to 
the  bridge  of  San  Michele,  on  the  Cor- 
saglia  torrent,  where  CoUi  repulsed 
Joubert  and  Serrurier  on  the  19th  of 
April,  but  retreated  on  Mondovi  in  the 
night :  continuing  on  its  rt.  bank  to 
Lesegno,  near  where  the  Corsaglia  joins 
the  Tanaro,  to  Ceva,  and  from  thence 
along  the  1.  bank  of  the  Tanaro  as  far 
as  Ponte  di  Napa,  between  wliich  and 
JLa  Fieve  it  crosses  the  Apennines ;  the 
relays  between  Mondovi  and  Oneglia 
being 

C&oa, 
JBagnasco, 

^r    }  ^^■^') 

La  Fieve,  and 
OnegUa, 


ROUTE  11. 

ALESSANDEIA    TO   SAYONA,    BY    ACQXJI, 
DEGO,  AND  MONTENOTTE. 

A  rly.  is  ox)en  as  far  as  Acqui,  21  m. 
in  1  hr.  10  m. ;  3  trains  daily :  to  be 
continued  to  Savona/  There  are  no 
relays  of  post-horses  between  Acqui 
and  Savona. 

This  is  a  very  interesting  road  to  the 
miUtary  traveller,  as  it  is  over  ground 
rendered  celebrated  by  Napoleon's  first 
Itahan  campaign  of  1796  ;  the  greater 
part  of  it  is  up  the  valley  of  the  Bor- 
mida  to  the  passes  of  Montenotte  and 
Cadibona. 

8  kil.  Cantalupo  Stat.,  in  the  plain. 
The  road  enters  the  hilly  countiy  at 

3  kil.  Borgoratto  Stat.,  follovnng  the 
1.  bank  of  the  Bormida  to 

3  kil.  Gamalero  Stat.,  a  small  village 
in  a  pleasant  country,  and  thence  to 

2  kil.  Sezze  Stat.,  the  village  at  some 
distance  on  the  1.  beyond  the  Bormida. 

6  kil.  Cassine  Stat.,  4000  Inhab., 
situated  upon  a  height  overlooking  the 
valley  of  the  Bormida.  This  small 
town  maintained  many  a  sturdy  conflict 
with  its  more  powerful  neighbour  Ales- 
sandria. 

6  kil.  StreviStat. 

6  kil.  Acqui  Stat.  (theAqtUB  Statiela 
of  the  Romans)  :  8200  Inhab.  This  city 
the  seat  of  a  bishop,  was  the  ancient  ca- 
pital of  the  Statielli,  a  Ligurian  nation, 
and  acquired  much  celebrity  under  the 
Romans  from  its  hot  springs.  The  whole 
country  abounds  with  them  j  and,  like 
those  at  Aix-la-Chapelle,  they  are  partly 
within  the  city  and  partly  without. 
Within  the  walls  is  the  spring  called 
the  "BoUente."  The  heat,  on  the 
average,  is  167*  Fahrenheit.  The  flow 
is  most  abundaixt,and  never  diminishes, 


Piedmont. 


BoiUe  11. — Acqtd — Dego, 


69 


and  the  water  is  used  by  the  inhabit- 
ants for  the  purposes  of  washing, 
though,  both  to  taste  and  smell,  dis- 
agreeably impregnated  with  sulphur- 
etted hydrogen.  The  bath-houses  are 
outside  of  the  city,  on  the  opposite  bank 
of  the  river,  where  several  springs  issue 
from  the  ground,  their  temperature 
varying  from  111°  to  124**  Fahrenheit. 
They  were  built  in  the  16th  century, 
by  the  Duke  of  Mantua,  but  have  re- 
cently been  much  improved.  The  mud 
of  the  baths  is  considered  as  having  most 
efficacy.  G^out,  paralysis,  and  rheu- 
matic affections,  are  the  complaints  in 
which  they  are  pecuHarly  useful.  Dr. 
Oantu,  a  celebrated  Fiedmontese  phy- 
sician, has  discovered  iodine  in  the 
waters,  to  which  he  attributes  much 
of  their  virtues,  and  also  a  trace  of 
bromine.  The  waters  of  the  Bormida 
are,  or  at  least  have  been,  supposed 
to  possess  the  same  efficacy  as  the  hot 
springs. 

Soman  remains  are  found  at  Acqui. 
The  few  which  have  escaped  the  de- 
struction of  the  city  by  the  Goths  at- 
test its  ancient  magnificence.  Four 
arches  of  a  massive  yet  elegant  aqueduct 
are  the  most  conspicuous.  Several 
reservoirs  and  other  portions  of  the 
thermsB  may  be  traced.  One  spring 
retains,  by  tradition,  the  name  of  *'  the 
fountam  of  Pallas."  The  block  or 
nudeiis  of  a  large  sepulchral  monument 
is  called  the  CarnS  by  the  common 
people,  a  name  having  a  curious,  though 
perhaps  accidental,  similarity  to  the 
Gaelic  and  Cymric  cairn  or  Carnedd, 
Numerous  sepulchral  and  other  in- 
scriptions have  been  foimd  near  the 
branch  of  the  Via  Emilia  which  ran  by 
the  city,  relating  to  the  LoUian,  Mettian, 
Butilian,  Petronian,  Kubrian,  Mennian, 
and  Plautian  families,  as  well  as  urns, 
lamps,  brazen  and  other  idols.  Coins 
are  also  found,  extending  from  Augustus 
to  Theodosius. 

The  Duomo  was  begun  in  the  12th 
century.  The  front  has  a  fine  and 
venerable  porch ;  and  an  ample  flight 
of  stone  steps  adds  to  its  effect.  The 
interior  is  divided  into  a  nave  with  four 
aisles.    The  church  of  8an  Francesco, 


a  Gothic  building  scarcely  inferior  to 
the  Duomo,  is  in  ruins,  having  been 
reduced  to  this  state  by  the  iWnch. 
The  other  churches  have  nothing  re- 
markable. 

The  Monte  Stregone,  or  Moimtain  of 
the  Great  Wizard,  rises  above  the  city. 
Here  the  hot  springs  have  their  sources. 
The  air  is  exceedingly  jJure  and  plea- 
sant; the  Baths  of  Acqui  are  much 
frequented,  and  would  be  more  so  if 
their  efficacy  was  better  known,  and  the 
accommodation  for  visitors  improved. 
The  wine  produced  in  this  neighbour- 
hood is  very  good. 

Acqui  was  the  capital  of  the  Upper 
Montferrat,  and  some  of  the  towers 
erected  by  the  Palseologi  yet  remain. 
It  suffered  much  during  the  revolu- 
tionary wars.    • 

On  leaving  Acqui  the  road  follows 
the  1.  bank  of  the  Bormida,  which  it 
crosses  at  Terzo,  on  the  site  of  a  Soman 
station — ad  Tertium — which  represents 
very  accurately  its  present  distance 
from  Acqui :  from  thence  it  follows  the 
rt.  bank  of  the  river,  leaving  Bis- 
tagno,  a  village  of  2000  Inhab.,  on  the 
rt.  The  two  branches  forming  the  Bor- 
mida unite  beyond  JBistagno — the  Bor- 
mida di  Spigno  descending  from  the 
Altare  or  Cadibona  Pass,  and  the  Bor- 
mida di  Millesimo,  which  rises  at  the 
foot  of  Mohte  Calvo.  The  road  to  Sa- 
vona  follows  the  first  of  the  two,  nearly 
in  a  true  south  direction,  for  9  m.  to 

Spignoy  a  village  of  3000  Inhab.,  12 
m.  from  Acqui,  in  a  fertile  territory, 
producing  much  silk  and  wine;  and 
10  m.  further  is 

Dego  (Degus),  a  village  of  2300  In- 
hab., which  has  little  to  interest  the  tra- 
veller, except  its  historical  recollections. 
It  is  situated  in  a  bend,  and  on  the  1. 
bank  of  the  Bormida:  its  territory  pro- 
duces a  good  deal  of  wine  and  some  silk. 

Dego,  frt>m  its  situation  on  one  of 
the  h^h  roads  into  the  plains  of  Lom- 
bardy  and  of  Piedmont,  has  suffered 
severely  on  several  occasions  from  mili- 
tary operations,  but  especially  in  Sept. 
1794,  when  it  was  occupied  by  Mas- 
sena,  and  in  1796,  when  it  was  the 
scene  of  one  of  the  sanguinary  battles 


70 


Eoute  11. — Cairo, 


Sect.  I. 


that  opened  to  Napoleon  the  conquest 
of  Italy.  The  French  general,  having 
succeeded  by  a  most  masterly  moye- 
ment  in  cutting  through  the  centre  of 
the  allied  army  of  the  Piedmontese  and 
Austrians  at  Montenotte  on  the  12th 
of  April,  lost  no  time  in  following  up 
his'  success  by  attacking  each  in  turn. 
The  Austrians,  after  their  disaster  at 
Montenotte,  retreated  along  the  Bor- 
mida,  and  occupied  Dego,  where  their 
conquered  division  received  reinforce- 
ments from  the  main  body  of  the  Im- 
perial army,  then  about  Genoa.  "  After 
beating  the  Piedmontese  under  CoUi 
at  MiUesimo,  and  forcing  them  to  re- 
treat on  Ceva  and  Mondovi,  Napoleon, 
having  under  his  orders  Laharpe  and 
Massena,  attacked  the  Austrians  at 
Dego.  After  a  series  of  hard-fought 
actions  during  two  days,  the  Imperial 
general  was  obhged  to  retreat  upon  Ac- 
qui,  leaving  3000  prisoners  and  13  can- 
non in  the  hands  of  the  French.  Two 
days  afterwards,  however,  a  most  gallant 
attempt  was  made  by  General  Wicka- 
sowich,  at  the  head  of  6000  Austrian 
grenadiers,  to  retrieve  the  past  disaster 
of  his  countrymen.  Dego  was  re- 
taken with  600  French  in  it ;  but  Na- 
poleon, uniting  his  forces,  pounced  upon 
Wickasowich  unexpecteAy,  and  soon 
recovered  it,  making  1600  JmperiaHsts 
prisoners.  The  results  of  the  battle  of 
Dego  were  —  the  impossibility  of  the 
Imperialists  forming  a  junction  with, 
or  reheving,  their  Piedmontese  allies, 
already  hard  pressed  by  Napoleon  at 
Ceva,  and  ultimately  defeated  at  Mon- 
dovi (see  Rte.  10),  and  their  being 
obliged  to  retreat  on  Alessandria  to 
cover  Milan  from  an  attack  by  Napo- 
leon. It  was  at  the  battle  of  Dego  that 
Lannes,  afterwards  celebrated  as  Due 
de  Montebello,  was  fii'st  distinguished 
by  General  Bonaparte,  who  for  his 
gaUant  conduct  made  him  a  colonel  on 
the  field  of  battle. 

Cairo  (Cairum),  5  m.  S.  of  Dego, 
is  supposed  to  have  been  a  station  on 
the  Via  Emilia,  which  from  Rimini 
led  to  Savona.  It  has  a  population  of 
3500  souls,  and  some  iron-frmaaces  in 
the  neighbourhood.     It  is  the  principal 


town  in  this  upper  valley  of  the  Bop- 
mida.  The  old  road  to  Savona  by  th^ 
Pass  of  Montenotte,  now  abandoned, 
struck  off  to  the  left  from  this  point, 
passing  by  the  battle-field  of  Monte- 
notte. A  mule-path,  frequented  by 
the  Genoese  fishermen,  still  exists 
over  that  celebrated  pass.  Since  the 
new  road  has  been  opened,  a  hand- 
some stone  bridge  of  7  arches  has 
been  thrown  over  the  Bormida  at 
Cairo.  This  new  road  was  commenced 
in  1800  by  Napoleon ;  and,  instead  df 
crossing  a  difficult  col,  as  that  of  Monte- 
notte was,  now  penetrates  into  Mari- 
time Liguria  by  that  between  Altare 
and  Cadibona,  perhaps  the  lowest  pass 
or  depression  in  the  whole  chain  of  the 
Apennines,  for  the  Apennines  may  be 
considered  to  commence  hereabouts. 

As  we  have  already  mentioned,  it  was 
at  Montenotte  thatNapoleon,on  the  12th 
of  April,  1796,  succeeded  in  piercing 
the  centre  of  the  allied  army  by  a  mas- 
terly  movement.  Encamped  at  Savona, 
having,  the  Austrian  commander-in- 
chief  in  front,  at  Voltri,  he  had  de- 
tached a  corps  of  1200  men,  under 
Colonel  Eampon,  to  occupy  the  pass  of 
Montenotte.  The  latter  was  vigorously 
attacked  by  a  vastly  superior  force  of 
the  Imperialists  imder  General  Rocca- 
vina,  who  being  severely  wounded,  the 
command  devolved  on  Argenteau. 
Forced  to  shut  himself  up  in  the  dis- 
mantled redoubt  of  Monte  Legino,  the 
French  commander  defended  himself 
with  heroism  until  night  closed  in,  ex- 
acting from  his  soldiers  an  oath  that  they 
would  conquer  or  die.  Napoleon,  hear- 
ing of  Rampon's  critical  position,  imme- 
diately broke  up  from  Savona,  unob- 
served owing  to  the  darkness  of  the 
night,  with  the  greater  part  of  his 
forces,  and  by  daybreak  the  next  morn- 
ing was  able  to  reheve  Rampon.  The 
Austrians  were  completely  beaten,  los- 
ing 1000  killed,  2000  prisoners,  and  5 
pieces  of  cannon  ;  but,  what  was  more 
serious  still,  having  their  centre  forced, 
and  their  main  body  obliged  to  retreat 
on  Dego. 

Leaving  Cairo,  some  remains  of  the 
Roman  road  are  seen  about  a  mile  be- 


Piedmont. 


Eaute  12. — Turin  to  Savona, 


71 


yond  the  town,  and  the  ruinB  of  a  con- 

I   ?ent,  said  to  have  been  founded  by  St. 

j    Francis  himself  but  burned  down  by 

'    the  French  in  1799. 

4  m.  fitrther  is  the  village  of  Car- 
eare,  where  the  valley  widens.     The 

I  road  from  Turm  to  Savona,  by  Ceva 
and  MiUesimo,  here  joins  that  from 
Alessandria.  Oarcare  has  a  population 
of  1500,  and  in  a  military  point  of  view 
occupies  an  important  position;  for 
this  reason  it  was  elected  by  Napoleon, 
after  the  battle  of  Montenotte,  as  his 
head-quai'ters,  from  which  he  directed 
his  operations  against  the  Austrians  in 
the  valley  of  the  Bormida,  and  the 
Piedmontese  at  Millesimo,  and  in  that 
of  the  Tanaro.  Beyond  Carcare  the 
road  rises  from' the  torrent  over  a  ridge 
which  separates  the  two  branches  of  the 
upper  Bormida,  to  reach 

Altwre^  the  last  village  on  the 
northern  declivity  of  the  Apennines, 
and  only  7  Piedmontese  m.  as  the  crow 
flies  from  the  shores  of  the  Mediter- 
ranean at  Savona.  The  ascent  to  Cadi- 
bona  is  very  easy,  and  the  road  gene- 
rally in  good  condition. 

The  very  great  depression  of  this 
part  of  the  Ligurian  Apennines  gave 
rise  to  the  project  of  the  French  go- 
vernment in  1805,  of  estabhshing  a 
water  communication  by  a  canal  be- 
tween the  valley  of  the  Po  and  the 
Ifediterranean.  Altare  was  in  that 
project  selected  as  the  site  of  an  im- 
mense reservoir  to  supply  the  canal  in 
its  descent,  through  the  valley  by  which 
we  have  travelled,  to  Alessandria,  from 
whence  the  Tanaro  is  navigable  to  the 
Po. 

The  road  attains  its  culminating 
point  near  Cadibona,  from  which  it 
descends  to  the  hamlet  of  Montemore, 
at  the  head  of  the  Vanestra  torrent, 
which  it  follows  to  Savona.  There  are 
niines  of  a  lignite  coal  in  the  environs 
of  Cadibona  belonging  to  the  tertiary 
geological  epoch.  This  coal  contains 
bones  of  an  extinct  quadruped,  the 
Anlhracotheriumy  also  found  in  the 
tertiaiy  strata  of  the  Paris  basin,  of 
Alsace,  the  Isle  of  Wight,  &c. 
For  Savona  see  Ete.  13. 


ROUTE  12. 

TTTRIN  TO   SAVONA,  BY  MILLESIMO. 

The  first  part  of  this  road,  as  far  as 
Dogliani,  has  been  described  under 
Rte.  9. 

From  Dogliani  the  road  follows  that 
to  Ceva,  as  far  as  Montezzenlolo,  a 
mountain  village  2500  ft.  above  the 
sea;  from  whence  striking  off  to  the  1., 
after  6  m.-of  rapid  ascents  and  descents, 
over  the  Alpine  spur  that  separates  the 
upper  valleys  of  the  Tanaro  and  Bor- 
mida, it  reaches 

Millesimo,  a  poor  village  of  less  than 
1000  Inhab.,  on  the  Upper  Bormida, 
1490  ft.  above  the  sea,  memorable  for 
the  battle  between  the  French  under 
Augereau,  and  the  Piedmontese  com- 
manded by  General  Provera,  in  which 
the  latter  were  defeated  and  forced 
to  retire  on  Ceva  and  Mondovi, 
whilst  at  the  same  moment  Bona- 
pairte  was  forcing  the  Austrians  at 
Dego  (p.  69)  fr'om  Millesimo.  The  road 
crosses  a  high  ridge  for  5  m.  to  reach 
Carcare,  where  it  joins  that  from  Ales- 
sandria to  Savona  (B>te.  11). 

A  direct  line  of  railway  of  90  m. 
between  Turin  and  Savona  is  now  in 
active  progress,  and  will  be  open  for 
traffic  in  all  1866 ;  it  will  branch  off 
from  that  to  Cuneo  at  Carmagnola 
(Rte.  8),  pass  by  Brd,  and  from  thence, 
by  Cherasco,  along  the  Upper  Valley  of 
the  Tanaro,  to  within  a  few  miles  of 
Mondovi,  to  which  it  is  proposed  to 
carry  a  branch  from  the  Mondovi 
I  Junction.     It  will  run  parallel  to  the 


72 


Eoute  12. — Turin  to  Savona. 


Sect.  I« 


range  of  the  Apennines,;  leaving  Cera 
and  Millesimo  at  a  short  distance  on 
the  rt.,  to  the  Pass  of  Altare  (Kte. 
11),  and.  descend  from  thence  to  Sa- 
Yona,  passing  near  the  coal-mines  of 
Cadibona.  A  Une  is  also  projected  from 
Acqni  to  this  main  line^passing  bj  Cairo, 


and  to  connect  thus  Alessandria,  and 
thereby  Milan,  Bologna,  Ancona,  &o,^ 
with  the  shores  of  the  Mediterranean  ; 
the  line  from  Aoqui  to  run  up  the 
yalley  of  the  Bormida  by  Dego,  as  far 
as  Oarcare,  described  in  the  preceding 
route. 


(    73    ) 


SECTION    II. 

ITALIAN  DOMINIONS  ON  THE  MEDITERBANEAN.  —  THE 
RIVIERA  DI  PONENTE,  AND  RIYIERA  DI  LEVANTE.— 
TERRITORIES  OF  NICE,  MONACO,  AND  DUCHY  OF  GENOA. 

PRELmrNfARY  INFORMATION. 

1.  Political  Chcunges  and  CJia/racter  of  the  Country, — 2,  A^rieulturey  Towns. 
— 3.  Moods.— ^,  Posting,  Modes  of  Travelling, — 6.  Money,  Weights^  Mea^ 
swrej. — 6.  Character  of  the  Population, — 7.  Inns, — 8.  Fine  Arts, 

Routes, 
koutb  page 

13.    Nice  to  Genoa,  by  the  Riviera  di  Ponente,  or  Comiche  .      78 
14;.     Genoa  to  Sarzana,  by  the  Riviera  di  Levante        .    .    .    131 

§  1.  PoLiTiCix  Changes. — Chaeaotee  op  the  Countey. 

At  the  beginning  of  the  present  century  the  dominions  of  Sardinia  on  this 
coast  consisted  of  the  county  of  Nice  (ceded  to  France  by  the  Treaty  of 
March  24,  1860),  the  principality  of  Oneglia,  and  some  smaller  enclamtres ;  the 
remainder  belonged  to  the  repubhc  of  Genoa.  What  were  called  the 
"imperial  fiefs"  in  the  interior  were,  as  the  name  imports,  small  feudal 
sovereignties;  but  they  all  belonged  to  Genoese  nobles,  and,  though  by 
law  subject  to  the  empire,  still,  poUtically  speaking,  they  had  no  independent 
existence,  and  had  become  mere  private  domains.  After  the  transitory  dura- 
tion of  the  Ligurian  repubhc  (1797),  the  whole  was  incorporated  with  the 
French  empire  (1805).  The  congress  of  Yienna  transferred  it  to  the  king 
of  Sardinia ;  and  the  House  of  Savoy  thus  not  only  regained  their  old  pos- 
sessions, but  also  obtained  the  territories  for  which  they  had  more  than 
once  struggled.  A  nominal  existence  had  been  given  to  the  "  duchy  of  Genoa," 
and  the  title  of  duke  was  taken  by  the  sovereign ;  but  the  whole  was  pohtically 
united  to  the  rest  of  the  Sardinian,  now  Italian,  states,  though  it  is  very 
distinct  in  its  physical  features  and  the  national  character  of  its  population. 
Between  the  Yar,  fixed  in  the  time  of  Augustus  as  the  boundary  of  Italy  on 
the  W.,  and  the  Magra,  the  ancient  boundary  of  Tuscany,  the  greater  part  of 
this  territory  is  situated.  "We  say  "  the  greater  part,"  for  a  small  district  be- 
yond the  Magra,  won  by  the  Genoese  from  their  ancient  rivals  of  Lucca,  and 
composing  a  part  of  the  Tuscan  Lunigiana,  was  retained  by  the  Sardinian 
monarch  as  the  successor  of  the  repubhc. 

The  coimtry  is  a  continued  series  of  mountain  ridges,  valleys,  and  ravines, 
formed  by  the  spurs  of  the  Maritime  Alps  and  the  Apennines.  The  breadth 
of  the  district,  which  is  now  denominated  "  Maritime  Liguria,"  varies  (always 

If.  Italy— IQG6,  e 


74  §  2.  Agricftdture^-^Tomns,  Sect.  11. 

supposing  the  central  ridge  of  the  Maritime  Alps  and  Apennines  to  form  its 
N.  Umit)  from  25  m.  at  Nice,  to  5  m.  between  Arenzano  and  Voltri,  where  the 
latter  chain  (at  Monte  Keisa)  approaches  nearest  to  the  shores  of  the  Mediter- 
ranean. The  climate  is  most  agreeable,  the  atmosphere  remarkable  for  its  trans- 
Earency  and  purity.  In  several  of  the  districts  on  the  sea-side,  which  are  protected 
■om  the  N.  and  N.E.  winds,  the  thermometer  rarely  falls  below  the  freezing-point ; 
and  hence  "the  singular  beauty  of  the  yegetation,  in  which  the  botany  of  the 
temperate  zone  of  the  southern  coasts  of  Europe,  and  of  the  northern  coasts 
of  Africa,  is  combined  with  that  of  the  tropics.  Where  the  ravines  open  into  the 
mountains  the  sharp  wind  occasionally  penetrates,  and  sometimes  the  winters  are 
severe ;  but  the  olive  rarely  suffers  on  this  coast,  and  this  affords  a  test  of  the  mild- 
ness  of  the  climate.  These  transient  variations  of  temperature,  or  perhaps  some 
less  perceptible  cause,  render  pulmonary  complaints  common  amongst  the  inha- 
bitants of  the  Biviera ;  and  the  foreign  invalid  who  resorts  hither  in  search  of 
health  finds  the  natives  mowed  down  by  the  disease  from  which  he  seeks  to  fly. 
The  mountains  abound  in  valuable  marbles,  furnishing  many  of  those  with  which 
the  palaces  of  Q-enoa  are  adorned.  The  most  remarkable  of  these  are  that  of 
Polcevera  di  Genova,  a  mixture  of  serpentine  with  granular  limestone,  and  the 
black  marble  of  Porto  Venere,  quarried  at  the  cape  of  that  name,  in  the  Gidf  of 
Spezia.  The  first  of  these  marbles  was  formerly  much  employed  in  Italy,  France, 
and  England,  for  chimney-pieces,  but  its  sombre  appearance  has  put  it  out  of 
fashion.  Taken  as  a  whole,  nearly  all  the  beauties  which  the  traveller  admires 
in  the  Alps  of  Switzerland,  or  on  the  shores  of  the  bay  of  Naples,  are  here 
combined. 

§  2.  Ageictiltubb — Towns, 

The  coast  of  the  Mediterranean  from  Sarzana  to  the  frx)ntier  of  France  rises 
abruptly  to  the  Maritime  Alps  and  the  Apennines.  Facing  the  S.,  with  gene- 
rally a  warm  aspect,  the  vine  and  the  olive  are  extensively  cultivated.  Wheat 
and  maize  are  grown  in  rotative  crops.  Beans,  some  potatoes,  and  other 
vegetables  are  also  produced,  which,  with  roasted  chestnuts  and  Indian  corn 
meal  made  into  pollenta,  form  the  chief  food  of  the  lower  classes  in  the  mountain 
districts.  Generally  the  rural  inliabitants,  as  well  as  the  labouring  classes  in 
the  towns,  are  poor.  The  farms  are  small,  held  chiefly  on  leases^  of  from  three 
to  seven  years,  and  slovenly  husbandry  prevails.  Along  some  parts  of  the  sea- 
coast,  and  inland  up  the  valleys  and  lulls,  the  Metayer  system  predominates. 

The  towns  along  the  Mediterranean,  fi^m  the  Var  to  Genoa,  with  the 
exception  of  Nice  (which  strangers  have  enriched),  appear  strikingly  pic- 
turesque and  beautiful  from  the  sea ;  but,  on  entering  them,  dirt  and  discom- 
fort, windows  without  glass,  a  want  of  all  that  we  consider  convenient  within 
doors,  dilapidation  and  a  general  absence  of  completeness  without  and  within, 
and  a  prevalence  of  what  may  serve  as  a  slovenly  expedient  for  the  moment,  are 
their  ordinary  characteristics.  Improvement  is,  however,  making  advances.  It 
commenced  under  the  late  king,  and  it  is  making  rapid  progress  imder  the  pre- 
sent constitutional  sovereign. 

The  chief  ports  are  Spezia,  Genoa,  Savona,  Porto  Maurizio,  Mentone,  Villa 
Franca,  and  Nice. 

§  3.  Roads. 

At  the  beginning  of  the  present  century  there  were  only  two  roads  practicable 
for  carriages,  and  those  but  indifferent — the  road  from  Nice  to  Turin  by  the 
Col  di  Tenda,  and  that  from  Alessandria  to  Genoa  over  the  Pass  of  La 


Riviera.  §  4,  Posting^  ^c,    §  6,  Money —  Weights,  75 

Bocchetta ;  all  the  others  were  mountam  paths,  some  of  which  coiild  not  be 
crossed,  even  on  miiles.  The  present  great  thoroughfare  which  connects  France 
with  Tuscany  was  planned  and  executed  as  far  as  Mentone  by  Napoleon  I.,  but 
was  completed  by  the  Sardinian  government,  which  also  opened  most  of  the 
other  carriage-roads  by  which  the  traffic  of  the  country  is  carried  on,  and  to 
which  its  rapid  improvement  is  to  be  in  part  ascribed.  The  road  along  the 
coast  is  intersected  by  numerous  torrents  descending  from  the  Maritime  Alps 
and  Apennines,  the  passage  of  some  of  which  is  occasionally  not  unattended 
with  danger.  Bridges  have  already  been  thrown  over  many  of  them,  as  at 
Ventimiglia,  Oneglia,  Pegli,  and  St.  Pier  d'Ai^na.  From  Genoa  to  Sarzana  the 
road  is  excellent :  a  bridge  over  the  Magra  recently  erected  has  been  a  great 
improvement.  The  only  Rly.  yet  completed  is  the  short  line  from  Voltri  to 
Genoa,  although  one  along  the  whole  fine  of  the  two  Bivieras,  from  Nice  to 
Pisa  and  Lucca,  is  in  progress,  and  is  already  open  from  Spezia. 


§  4.  Posting,  Modes  of  TEAVEiiUNG,  &o. 

The  post  regulations  are  the  same  as  in  the  other  parts  of  the  Italian' 
kingdom.  The  relays  are  well  served.  From  the  nature  of  the  roads, 
persons  who  wish  to  see  the  country  will  prefer  the  vetturini,  which  are 
good,  though  much  more  expensive  than  formerly ;  or  the  dihgences,  which 
are  excellent,  all  the  way  from  Nice  to  Spezia.  The  journey,  from  point  to 
point,  Inay  also  be  performed  by  water,  by  the  steamers  between  Marseilles, 
Nice,  Genoa,  and  Spezia. 

§  5.  Money. 

The  Italian  currency  is  the  sam^  as  the  French.  Q?he  following  coins  of  the 
republic  of  G^noa  are  sometimes  met  with,  though  not  common. 

Gold : — Quadruple  di  Geneva,  79  francs. 

Doppia  di  Geneva,  39  francs  50  cents. 

Among  the  small  dealers  calculations  are  still  in  use  in  the  old  currency  of 
C^noa,  the  lira  and  soldo.    Their  value  in  the  present  currency  is  as  foUows : — 

A  lira  of  Genoa  contains  20  soldi,  and  is  equal  to  80  centimes  of  the  Italian 
currency.     A  soldo  =  4  centimes. 

A  French  franc  is  equal  to  25  soldi  of  Genoa. 

Weights, 

The  pound,  gold  and  silver  weight,  is  divided  into  12  ounces  j  the  ounce  into 
24  denari ;  the  denaro  into  24  grani. 
The  pound  =  4891^  grains  Troy  =  10  ounces  3  pennyweights  13 J  grains. 
The  ounce  =  407^  grains  Troy  =  16  „  23|     „ 

This  weight,  ot^edpeso  sottile^  is  used  not  only  for  gold  and  silver,  but  for  all 
oommodities  of  small  bulk.    Other  goods  are  weighed  with  the  peso  gro9so» 

iOO  lbs.  peso  grosso  =  76'875  lbs.  avoirdupois. 
100  lbs.  peso  Bottile  =  69'89  Ibsk  avoirdupois. 


^ 


76  §  5,  Measures.     §  6,  Character  of  the  Population.      Sect,  II. 

Meatwret  of  Length. 

The  palmo  =  9*726  English  inches. 

The  canna  is  of  three  sorts ;  the  piccola,  which  tradesmen  and  manufacturerB 
use,  is  9  pahni,  or  87  5  English  inches.  The  canna  grossa,  which  is  used  by 
merchants,  is  12  pahni,  or  116*7  English  inches.  The  canna  used  at  the  custom- 
house is  10  pahni,  or  97*6  Enghsh  inches. 

The  braccio  contains  2)  palmi ;  but  in  all  the  large  towns,  and  through  the 
country,  the  ni^trey  kilogramme,  and  litre  are  in  general  use,  and  the  only  official 
weights  and  measure. 

§  6.  Chabacteb  of  the  Population. 

The  Ligurian  trihes  were  amongst  the  last  of  the  inhabitants  of  Italy  incor- 
porated in  the  Roman  empire.  "We  are  not  acquainted  with  the  goyemment 
and  constitution  of  the  people  prior  to  that  event  j  it  seems  probable,  however, 
that,  being  Celts,  they  constituted  a  confederacy  of  clans  and  tribes  bound  by 
their  own  laws  and  customs,  but  not  acknowledging  any  common  head  or  supe- 
rior. Having  allied  themselves  to  the  Carthaginians,  the  Bomans,  after  the 
second  Punic  war,  assailed  them  with  eighty  years'  hostility,  and  they  were  for 
a  time  rendered  obedient ;  yet  they  were  not  finally  subjugated  until  they  were 
conquered  by  Augustus,  who  commemorated  his  triumph  by  the  remarkable 
tropny  of  which  the  ruins  are  still  existing  at  Turbia.  By  hiin — or,  at  least, 
during  his  reign — the  Alps  became  the  limits  of  Italy  j  and  that  fair  countiy 
acquired  the  boundaries  by  which  it  was  known  and  characterised  by  its  great 
poet — 

........  II  bel  paese 

Clie  Appenin*  parte,  e  '1  mar*  circonda  e  1'  Alpe—  • 

until  the  recent  cession  of  the  territory  of  Nice  to  France. 

But  this  conquest  did  not  break  up  the  nationahty,  nor  indeed  the  goyem- 
ment, of  the  Ligurian  states.  They  continued  to  retain  their  identity,  though 
under  Koman  supremacy ;  and  this  corporate  succession  (as  in  the  large  cities  of 
the  south  of  France)  was  continued,  in  a  great  measure,  until  the  great  European 
revolution  of  the  19th  centy.  Thus  NoU,  Savona,  Albenga,  San'  Kemo,  Porto 
Maurizio,  and  Yintimiglia,  were  rather  the  aUies  than  the  subjects  of  Genoa ;  and 
even  much  smaller  communities  enjoyed  a  species  of  independence.  The  in- 
habitants of  this  coast  possess  a  very  decided  national  character,  and  present 
all  the  physical  characteristics  of  a  pure  and  imaltered  race,  excepting  at 
Genoa,  where  there  appears  to  have  been  a  considerable  mixture  of  Lombard 
blood ;  and  in  the  district  between  If  ice  and  Mentone,  where  the  Provencals  have 
intermingled. 

From  the  earliest  period  the  Ligurians  have  been  a  nation  of  sailors  and  mer- 
chants. Mago  the  Carthaginian  reduced  the  city  of  Genoa  B.C.  205.  The 
ancestors  of  Doria  and  of  Columbus  were  distinguished  by  their  aptness  for 
maritime  enterprise.  In  the  middle  ages  Genoa  alone  vied  with  Venice ;  and 
at  the  present  day  she  has  recovered  her  ancient  commercial  prosperity,  and  fer 
surpasses  her  rival  of  the  Adriatic. 

The  Genoese  are  said  to  be  parsimonious :  this  reputation  they  had  of  old ; 
but  in  acts  of  charity,  and  indeed  in  every  call  which  can  be  made  on  pubUc 
spirit,  their  liberality  has  been  unbounded,  and  still  continues  very  eminent. 
The  lower  orders  are  remarkably  hard-working  and  industrious. 


Riviera.  §  7.  Inns,    §  8.  Fine  Arts.  77 

§  7.  Inns. 

The  inns  between  Nice  and  Genoa,  and  between  Genoa  and  Pisa,  have  perhaps 
rather  declined  since  the  steamers  between  Marseilles,  Nice,  G«noa,  and  Leghorn 
hare  been  established,  the  number  of  travellers  by  land  having  considerably 
diminished.  They  are  still,  however,  good  in  almost  aU  the  places  in  which, 
according  to  the  usual  arrangement,  a  traveller  requires  to  stop.  Iron  bed- 
steads, for  the  manufacture  of  which  Genoa  is  celebrated,  are  now  in  general 
use,  greatly  to  the  comfort  of  the  traveller. 

§  8.  Fine  Aets. 

Little  is  known  respecting  the  arts  of  Genoa  in  the  middle  ages.  There  are 
Boman  remains  at  Cimies,  near  Nice ;  others  exist  at  Turbia  and  at  Albenga  ;  but 
the  ancient  masters  of  the  world  have  left  few  traces  of  their  domination  in  Ligu- 
ria.  The  "  Gothic  "  architecture  of  the  country  is  of  a  peculiar  character,  and, 
in  Genoa  at  least,  exhibits  more  orientalism  than  perhaps  in  any  other  part  of 
W.  Europe.  But,  in  the  16th  century,  architecture  burst  out  in  Genoa  with 
peculiar  splendour.  The  palaces  of  Genoa  exhibit  fine  specimens  of  domestic 
architecture.  Galeazzo  Alessi  (1500-1572),  by  whom  the  best  of  them  were 
designed,  gave  the  impulse  which  continued  till  the  last  century,  when  the  art 
declined,  giving  way  to  extravagant  decoration. 

Nowhere  has  painting  been  more  closely  allied  to  architecture  than  at  Genoa. 
In  the  first  era  the  earliest  known  Genoese  artist  is  the  individual  who  bears  the 
somewhat  romantic  appellation  of  the  "  Monk  of  the  Golden  Islands  "  (1321- 
1408).  The  golden  islands  are  said  to  be  the  isles  d'Hy feres,  where  he  took 
the  vows.  This  monk,  who  is  thought  to  have  belonged  to  the  noble  family  of 
Cibo,  was  also  a  Troubadour  of  no  mean  powers ;  and  he  gave  what  may  be 
termed  a  new  edition  of  the  works  of  his  predecessors,  by  making  correct 
copies  of  them,  which  had  been  much  corrupted  by  the  ignorance  of  tran- 
scribers. As  an  artist  be  was  chiefly  distinguished  as  a  miniature  painter  or 
illuminator.  There  appears  also  to  have  been  a  class  of  artists  who  flourished 
in  this  district,  either  Germans,  or  who  followed  German  models ;  to  this  class 
belong  Giusto  d'Allemagna,  who  painted  at  G^noa  in  1451,  and  Ludovico  Brea, 
who,  flourishing  between  the  years  1483  and  1515,  is  perhaps  to  be  considered 
as  the  father  of  the  Genoese  school,  of  which  the  principal  of  the  more  early 
masters  were,  Robertelli  (1499),  Nicolo  Corso  (about  1503),  Pietro  Francesco 
Saochi  (1512-1526),  and  Lorenzo  Moreno  (about  1544). 

The  second  era  was  formed  by  Pierino  del  Yaga  (died  1547)  and  his  scholars, 
and  may  be  considered  as  an  offset  from  the  Koman  school.  The  calamities 
of  Rome  compelled  Pierino  to  seek  a  refuge  at  Genoa  at  the  time  when 
those  palacfes  were  rising  which  have  conferred  such  splendour  upon  the  Citt^ 
Superba.  Patronised  by  the  great  Andrea  Doria,  he  was  employed  upon  the 
decoration  of  his  palace ;  and  by  him,  and  by  the  native  Genoese  who  were 
either  directly  or  indirectly  his  pupils,  were  those  frescoes  produced.  To  this 
period  belong  Lazzaro  Calvi  (bom  1502,  and  who  attained  the  patriarchal  age 
of  105  years)  and  Pantaleon  Calvi  his  brother  (died  1509),  Antonio  Semini,  a 
follower  of  Perugino  (died  1547),  and  his  son  Andrea  (1578),  Giovanni  Cam- 
biaso  and  Luca  Oambiaso  his  son  (died  1585),  Tavarone  (1556-1641),  and 
Bernardo  CasteUi  (died  1629). 

Gfriovanni  Oambiaso  is  the  chief  of  these  artists.  All  were  exceedingly  prized 
in  their  own  coimtry ;  and  the  Genoese  republic  conferred  an  honour  upon 
painting  which  no  other  Italian  state  had  bestowed.    By  a  special  decree,  they 


78        Eoute  13. — Nice  to  Genoa^  by  the  Riviera  di  Fonente.     Sect.  II, 

raised  painting  from  a  trcide  to  Aprofesnonf  declaring  that  it  was  a  liberal  art, 
and  that  it  might  be  practised  without  derogating  from  nobility. 

In  the  third  era,  which  partly  includes  some  who  may  also  be  considered 
as  belongmg  to  the  preceding  age,  Domenico  Fiasella,  sumamed  "  Sarzana," 
from  his  birthplace  (1584-1669),  holds  a  conspicuous  station.  The  Piola 
family  produced  many  artists  of  high  merit,  one  gf  whom,  Pellegro  (died 
164)0),  had  he  not  been  prematurely  cut  off,  would  probably  have  attained 
the  highest  rank  in  art.  Eight  of  the  Piola  family  were  artists,  the  series 
extending  from  1625  to  1774.  The  Carlone  family  also  formed  a  clan  of 
painters.  Giovanni  Battista  Carlone  (died  1680)  must  perhaps  be  con- 
sidered as  the  greatest  master  of  this  period ;  and  his  elder  brother,  Griovanni, 
was  scarcely  inferior.  During  the  earlier  part  of  this  period  Genoa  was  visited 
by  many  foreign  artists,  more,  certainly,  than  any  other  state  in  Italy.  Both 
Rubens  and  Vandyke  were  much  encouraged  here,  and  had  a  good  deal  of  influ- 
ence on  the  Genoese  school  of  painting  in  the  early  part  of  the  18th  centy. 
During  the  great  plague  of  1657  many  of  the  principal  painters  died.  This  is 
assigned  as  one  of  the  causes  of  the  sudden  decline  of  the  Genoese  school ;  but 
the  main  cause  was  the  general  decline  in  art,  in  which  all  Italy  participated. 
Many  young  men  went  to  Rome  to  pursue  their  studies  j  and,  on  their  return, 
constituted  what  is  considered  as  the  fourth  era.  The  greater  nimiber  of  these 
students  became  the  pupils  of  Carlo  Maratta;  the  most  distinguished  were, 
Andrea  Carlone  (died  1697),  Paol'  Girolamo  Piola  (1724),  Domenico  Parodi 
(1740),  and  the  Jesuit  Padre  Pozzi  (ob.  1709).  The  later  artists  are  of  no  great 
importance,  nor  does  Genoa  at  the  present  day  form  any  exception  to  the  general 
observation — that  Italy  exhibits  no  real  symptoms  of  any  efficient  revival  in 
painting. 


ROUTES, 


ROUTE  13. 

jriCE   TO  GENOA,  BY  THE  EIYIEBA  DI 
PONEKTE,   OR  COENICHE. 

206  kil.  =  129  Eng.  m.  Nice  Ter- 
minus. 

Nice  is  now  reached — 1st,  by  rly. 
in  23  hrs.  from  Paris;  invalids  may 
break  the  journey  by  sleeping  at  Lyons, 
Avignon,  and  Toulou,  where  the  most 
comfortable  Inns  are ; — 2nd,  by  steamer 
from  Marseilles  in  15  hrs.; — ^Srd,  from 
Turin  by  railway  as  far  as  Cuneo,  and 
thence  by  posting,  malleposte,  or  dili- 
gence ;  the  time  occupied  by  the  latter 


conveyance,  rly.  included',   being  25 
hrs.,  and  by  malleposte  21. 

Nice — Nizza  di  Mare  in  Italian. — 
Inns ;  Hdtel  Victoria,  on  the  Promenade 
des  Anglais,  a  large  establishment  W.  of 
the  town,  close  to  the  beach :  charges 
high ;  table-d'hdte  at  5  frs. ;  everything 
else  expensive,  especially  apartments ; 
the  mosquitos  here  in  the  months  of 
Oct.,  Nov.,  and  Dec.  are  often  very- 
annoying. 

H.  de  la  Mediterran^e,  near  the 
Victoria,  has  one  of  the  largest  saloons 
for  dining  and  balls  in  Nice;  table- 
d'hote  5  frs.,  dinner  in  rooms  7  frs, ; 
this  hotel  is  well  situated  and  spoken 
of;  recently  opened.  With  certain 
winds  the  smell  of  the  drains,  which, 
empty  themselves  into  the  sea  along 


Route  13.— JWbe. 


4.  En«llBh  Chnrcta  ud  Ctumny.       U- 


80 


Eoute^  13, — Nice — Inns, 


Sect.  II. 


the  Promenade  des  Anglais,  is   very 
disagreeable. 

H.  d'Angleterre,  in  the  Place  du 
Jardin  Public;  table-d'hote  4  frs.,  with 
a  ciyil  master  (Paimieri). 

H.  ChauTSun,  on  the  Quai  St.  Jean 
Baptiste,  near -the  Pont  Neuf,  a  very 
good  house  generally  speaking;  some 
of  the  rooms,  however,  are  gloomy ; 
table-d'hote  4  frs. :  best  suited  for 
single  men  and  small  families. 

Hdtel  de  France,  on  the  Quai  Mas* 
s<$na,  has  one  of  the  best  tables-d'hote 
in  Nice,  5  f  rs. 

H.  des  Anglais,  on  the  Promenade 
des  Anglais,  overlooking  the  sea.  This 
hotel,  having  passed  into  the  hands  of 
the  Mediterranean  Hotel  Company,  is 
Tery  good  as  re^rds  apartments,  but 
cookery  complained  of:  table-d'h6te 
with  wine,  5  frs. ;  bed-rooms  from 
5  to  8  frs. ;  good  general  sitting  saloon, 
reading  and  smoking  rooms. 

H.  de  r£urope,  Kue  de  France,  a 
quiet  family  house :  charges  the  same 
as  at  the  U.  ChauTain. 

H.  Ro^al,  on  the  Boulevard  de 
rimp^ratrice,  and  near  the  new  road 
to  Villefranche,  in  one  of  the  least  ex- 
posed situations  to  the  mistral  winds ; 
the  wife  of  the  owner,  M.  Santi,  is 
an  Englishwoman,  a  very  obliging 
person;  the  house  is  well  kept,  and 
with  perhaps  more  moderate  charges 
than  at  any  of  the  preceding  ;  persons 
can  arrange  here  to  live  en  pension, 
paying  10  frs.  a-day,  with  a  room 
looking  south.  The  H.  Royal,  being 
at  a  considerable  distance  from  the 
quarter  most  frequented  by  foreigners, 
may  be  inconvenient  for  those  going 
out  in  the  evening,  although  unobjec- 
tionable in  other  respects. 

H.  de  rUnivers,  kept  by  How  in 
the  business  quarter,  the  Place  S. 
Domini(|ue,  and  near  the  malleposte 
office, — improved. 

H.  des  Princes,  at  the  E.  extremity 
of  the  town,  near  the  shore;  **very 
clean  and  comfortable ;"  under  the 
Castle-hill,  which  protects  it  from  the 
northerly  winds. 

H.  des  Alpes,  in  the  Rue  St.  Francois 
de  Paule,  new. 

Grand  H.  Royal,  Rue  Grimaldi,  in 
the  quarter  of  Longchamps,  a  new 


house,  in  a  good  situation ;  kept  by  the 
Santis  of  the  old  H.  Royal ;  promises 
well,   the  Santis  being  very   obliging 
and  accommodating  people.  Mad.  San 
an  Englishwoman. 

H.  du  Paradis,  on  the  Boulevard  da 
Midi,  frequented  by  French  families  ; 
more  economical  than  the  houses  on 
the  Promenade  des  Anglais  and  Jardin' 
Public ;  the  landlord  civil  and  obliging. 

II.  des  Etrangers,  Rue  du  Pont  Neuf ; 
charges  reasonable,  but  attendance  com- 
plained of. 

H.  du  Nord,  frequented  chiefly  by 
Russians  and  commercial  travellers. 

H.  Belle  Vue,  at  St.  Edenn^ ;  prices 
moderate. 

The  other  Hotels  in  Nice  are  the  H. 
du  Louvre,  Rue  Grimaldi ;  H.  Helvd- 
tique.  Rue  de  France  ;  H.  Besson ;  H. 
de  Paris ;  H.  du  Prince  de  Galles  and 
Grand  H.  de  Nice,  at  Carabacel ;  H.  de 
la  Grand  Bretagne,  belonging  to  a  joint 
stock  company,  on  the  Place  Mass^na, 
&c. 

H.  de  rOrangine,  at  Cimies,  in  the 
Villa  Gerebzoff,  is  in  a  delightful 
situation,  with  fine  bracing  air  and  a 
lovely  view;  bed -rooms  3  to  5  frs., 
according  to  the  floor;  pension  from 
9  to  12  frs.,  according  to  the  apart- 
ments. 

As  a  general  observation,  it  may  be 
stated,  that  the  hotels  at  Nice  have 
become  of  late  years  as  expensive  as 
those  in  the  largest  capitals  in  Europe : 
although  every  article  of  marketing, 
and  house-rent,  are  comparatively  mo- 
derate, complaints  have  been  universal, 
not  only  as  regards  the  high  charges, 
the  attempts  at  extortion  even  in  some 
of  the  first-class  houses,  the  want  of 
attention  and  of  ordinary  civility,  the 
inadequacy,  little  variety  in,  and  bad 
quality  of  the  food  at  the  tables-d'hdte, 
even  where  prices  higher  than  those  in 
Paris,  Florence,  or  Rome  were  charged. 
Unfortunately  visitors  are  in  some 
measure  at  the  mercy  of  hotel-keepers 
here,  as  lodgings  can  only  be  procured 
in  private  houses  for  a  lengthened 
period,  the  season,  which  lasts  from 
November  until  May  :  fabulous  prices 
are  consequently  demanded  and  ob- 
tained; and  as  the  system  of  fixed 
charges  is  unknown  at  Nice,  the  nn- 


fiiViERA.         Route  13* — Nice — Boarding-hous^ — Lodgings.  81 


fortunate  foreigner  is  screwed  without 
mercy.  It  is  to  be  hoped  that  the 
great  number  of  new  hotels,  recently 
opened,  by  increasing  competition  will 
bring  with  it  moderation  in  charges, 
and  greater  civility  on  the  part  of 
landlords  than  hitherto. 

Boarding-houses ;  Pensions, — ^The  fol- 
lowing are  amongst  the  best : — ^Marine 
Villa,  pension.  Promenade  des  Anglais, 
ivith   a  small   garden ;    and  Pension 
Visconti,  at  Cimies,  near  the  Roman 
Amphitheatre,  both  kept  by  Mr.  and 
Mrs.   Smithers,   are  well  spoken  of: 
terms — for  a  single  room,  with- break- 
fast, lunch,   dinner,   and    tea,   "fare 
very  good,"  lOfrs.  a  day:  the  inmates 
at  the  one  may  take  their  meals  at  the 
other,  when  it  suits  their  convenience. 
— Pension  Stockar,  at  Carabacel,  be- 
longing to  Dr.  MayhoflPer,  the  homoeo- 
pathic physician ;  board  and  lodging 
10  to  15  frs.  a  day. — Pension  Guilbot, 
or  Helv^tique,  at  Longchamps:  same 
prices ;  service  and  fare  good  :  the  situ- 
ation of  this  house  is  mvourable  for 
persons  labouring  under    pulmonary 
affections.  —  Pension   Finelia,  in  the 
Petite  Rue  St.   Etientje:    more  of  a 
family  pension,  in  a  domestic  kind  of 
way;   very,  good   fare,  situation   ex- 
cellent for  invalids  ;  the  owner   is  a 
homoeopathic  physician,  who  will  ad- 
vise his  boarders,  although  he  does  not 
practise  out  of  doors ;  of  course  lodgers 
can  call  in  their  own  medical  Inen. — 
Pension  Rivoiz,  in  a  good  situation  on 
the    Promenade    des    Anglais:   very 
clean  ;  meals  served  in  private  apart- 
ments  ("a  party   consisting  of  two 
masters  and  a  servant,  having  a  large 
drawing-room  and  bed -rooms,   and 
their  meals  served  separately — break- 
&st,  lunch,  dinner,  tea,  fire,  and  lights 
— paid  40  frs,  a-day  in  the  height  of 
the  season"). — Pension  dltalie.  Rue 
des  Ateliers,  near  the  Hdtel  de  TEu- 
rope :   very  quiet,  with  good  rooms. — 
Pension  Suisse,  27,  Rue  Massena,  and 
Pension  Julienne,  opposite,  are  chiefly 
frequented  by  French,  Swiss,  and  Ger- 
mans.— Pension   Millet,,  in    the   Rue 
St.  Etienne,  stated  to  be   one  of  the 
best  in  Nice. — Pension  de  Russie,  Rue 


Chauvain,  6  to  10  frs.  a-day. — Miss 
Stafford,  an  Englishwoman,  has  a  good 
pension,  which  is  much  frequented. 

Persons  living  in  boarding-houses 
will  do  well  to  settle  their  bills  at  the 
end  of  every  week,  as  cases  have  oc- 
curred, and  by  no  means  rarely,  of  a 
demand  being  made  for  breakages, 
which  could  not  be  verified  after  a 
lapse  of  time,  and  hence  nothing  re- 
mained but  to  pay. 

Lodgings  may  be  had  to  suit  every 
class  of  persons,  although,  as  in  the  case 
of  hotels,  the  prices  have  been  carried 
to  an  exorbitant  extent.  A  list  of  the 
houses  and  rooms  on  hire  may  be  seen 
at  the  oflBces  of 

The  principal  house-agents^  the  most 
respectable  amongst  whom  are  now — 
Dalgoutte,  No.  9,  Rue  du  Paradis,  an 
active  and  attentive  man,  who  keeps 
also  a  list  of  foreigners  arriving  at  and 
leaving  Nice ;  Samaritani,  the  longest 
established  in  this  line  of  business; 
his  wife  speaks  English  and  German ; 
Lattes,  near  the  I'ont  -  Neuf ;  and 
Tieffin,  Place  Charles  Albert,  &c.  In 
hiring  furnished  apartments,  the  gene- 
ral system  is  that  the  agent  is  paid  by 
the  owner ;  but  in  this  respect  there  is 
a  good  deal  of  shuffling.  Visitors 
ought  to  see  that  all  agreements  are 
made  in  writing,  and  to  mark  par- 
ticularly that  charges  for  water,  gas, 
porter  {concierge),  be  included  in  the 
rent ;  and  that  a  clause  be  inserted,  if 
any  article  of  furniture  be  wanting, 
they  can  procure  them  at  the  letter  s 
cost,  he  taking  the  inventory.  All 
r^ocW^,  china,  glass,  linen,  &c.,  should 
be  gone  over  piece  by  piece,  since,  if 
on  giving  up  possession  there  be  the 
smallest  stain  or  crack,  the  lodger 
will  have  to  pay  for  it  as  for  new. 
It  will  also  be  necessary  to  stipulate 
that  all  washing  of  furniture,  hang- 
ings, curtains,  &c.,  be  at  the  charge  of 
the  person  who  lets,  that  of  table  and 
bed  linen  only  being  at  the  lodger's. 
It  is  difficult  to  convey  a  correct  idea 
of  the  price  of  lodgings.  The  follow- 
ing has  been  sent  to  us  from  Nice 
by  a  person  well  acquainted  with 
the  subject : — "  An  apartment  of  7  or 
8  rooms,    of  which  4  or  5  look  to- 

£3 


82 


EoiOe  13. — Nice — Phystcians — Tradesmen.         Sect.  It. 


wards  the  soath,  on  the  Promenade 
des  Anglais  or  Jardin  Public,  will 
cost  5,  6,  or  7000  francs  for  the  season ; 
one  of  the  same  size  at  Carabacel,  in 
a  villa,  from  4000  to  6000  francs ;  at 
St.  Etienne  Longchamps  3500  to  5500 ; 
an  apartment  of  8  or  9  rooms  on  the 
Quai  Massena  from- 3000  to  5000,  and 
on  the  Boulevard  du  Midi  something 
less.  Small  villas  in  the  environs 
.  from  4000  to  6000 ;  larger  ones  from 
9000  to  15,000.  Very  comfortable 
apartments  may  be  procured  in  the 
Piazza  Grimaldi  and  Rue  Grimaldi  at 
Longchamps,  well  placed,  and  shel- 
tered from  dust  and  wind." 

Restaurants. — None  very  good  ;  seve- 
ral send  out  dinners  in  heated  tin  boxes 
on  the  Roman  plan.  The  best  are — 
Julien,  in  the  Rue  Massena;  Augier, 
Avenue  du  Prince  Imperial;  Lavit, 
Rue  Massena ;  Pattard,  Rue  de  France  ; 
Valdini,  at  Carbacel;  Crescembeni, 
Longchamps — all  send  out  dinners,  but 
do  not  keep  restaurants  properly 
speaking.  Scala,  at  the  comer  of  the 
Rues  de  France  and  Grimaldi ;  the 
London  House,  Rue  de  la  Croix  de 
Marbre,  dinners  and  luncheons  in 
the  English  style,  but  expensive. 
The  system  is  to  pay  so  much  a 
day ;  bread,  wine,  and  dessert  not 
being  generally  included.  Persons 
living  in  furnished  lodgings  will  find 
it  more  economical  to  obtain  their 
meals  from  a  restaurateur's  than  to 
employ  cooks,  who  are  not  here  re- 
markable for  their  honesty,  and  who 
will  generally  charge  more  than  the 
actual  cost,  and,  what  is  still  worse, 
furnish  meat  of  an  inferior  quality. 

Cafes, — The  principal  Cafes  are  on 
the  Corso,  near  the  Theatre.  The 
Cafe  Am^ricain,  and  Cafe  du  Com- 
merce. The  Cafe  de  TUnivers,  Boule- 
vard du  Pont  Neuf,  and  Caf^  Royal, 
are  two  elegant  establishments,  at  the 
corner  of  tJie  Avenue  of  the  Prince 
Imperial  and  Place  Massena. 

Confectioners  f  Pastrycooks,  ^c. — Maras, 
Rue  du  Pont  Neuf;  Cafe  Americain  ; 
Cresp,  Rue  St.  Frangois  de  Paule,  for 
biscuits  and  rusks.  The  best  ices  are 
to  be  had  at  the  Caf^s  Americain, 
Vittoria,  and  de  I'Europe,  and  at  Rum- 
pelmayer'S;  Place  St.  Etienne.     The 


charges  at  the  pastrycooks'  on  the 
Quai  Massena,  so  much  frequented  by 
foreigners,  are  higher  than  in  the 
others. 

Physicians. — There  are  three  excel- 
lent physicians  here,  whose  practice  is 
almost  exclusively  confined  to  English 
and  Americans.  Dr.  Pantaleoni,  so  long 
established  at  Rome,  and  so  well  known 
amongst  our  countrymen  who  have  re- 
sided there,  is  one  of  the  most  eminent 
medical  men  in  Italy  at  the  present  day ; 
practises  as  physician  and  accoucheur ; 
he  lives  at  No.  1,  Place  Massena,  2nd 
floor.  Dr.  Travis,  of  the  College  of 
Physicians,  Edinburgh.  Dr.  Gumey, 
25,  Rue  de  France.  Drs.  Fitzpatrick 
Crothers,  and  Crosby.  Dr.  Pasqnale, 
a  Neapolitan  physician,  who  practises 
amongst  our  countrymen,  and  speaks 
English.  Dr.  Pressat,  an  eminent 
French  practitioner. 

Homceopathic  Physician, — ^Dr.  Monta- 
nari,  1,  Place  Massena,  speaks  English. 

Like  every  other  expense  to  be  in- 
curred at  Nice,  the  fee  of  physicians 
has  increased:  that  expected  by  the 
first  3  medical  men  on  our  list  is  20 
frs.,  and  double  when  they  are  called 
to  Cimies  and  other  places  at  a  similar 
distance  from  the  town. 

Chemists,  Apothecaries. — Daniel,  on 
the  Quai  Massena,  and  Musso,  Rue  du 
Pont  Neuf:  both  have  English  assist- 
ants. Musso  is  celebrated  for  his  dried 
fruits  and  syrups,  of  which  he  is  an 
exporter  upon  a  large  scale.  Leon- 
cini.  Place  St.  Etienne,  has  also  an 
English  assistant.  Peron,  in  the  Rue 
du  Pont  Neuf;  and  Fouques,  Place 
Napoleon. 

Dentist, — Mr.  Hall,  an  American 
dentist,  is  the  best ;  he  lives  at  No.  3, 
Place  Massena. 

British-  Consul. — A.  Lacroix,  Esq., 
Rue  du  Pont  Neuf,  near  the  Place  S. 
Dominique. 

United  States  Consul, —  Aldis,  Esq., 
1,  Rue  de  Longchamps. 

Post  Office  in  the  Place  Napoleon. 
Letter-boxes  in  different  parts  of  the 
town. 

Poste  aux  Chevaux. — Rue  Victor,  on 
the  road  to  Turin. 

Bankers. — The  principal  are  MM. 
Avigdor  and  Co. ;  Lacroix  and  Co.,  at 


KlVIERA. 


tloute  1 3 . — Nice — IVadesmen —  Cliibs, 


83 


tbe  British  Consulate;  and  Etienne, 
Carlone,  aodCo.;  all  of  whom  are  very 
obliging  to  their  English  customers; 
Gartaud  and  Co. 

Tradespeople, — As  a  general  rule, 
tradespeople  employed  by  foreign 
Tisitors  make  higher  charges  than 
those  whose  business  is  more  confined 
to  the  native  population  ;  but  it  must 
also  be  stated  that  the  shops  of  the 
former  are  better  supplied. 

a.  Grocers. — ^Berlandina,  Rue  S. 
Fran9ois  de  Paule,  is  one  of  the  best 
for  teaSfWines,  and  groceries  in  general : 
he  is  an  obliging  man,  and  will  give 
information  as  to  lodgings,  servants, 
&c. ;  Gent,  on  the  Quay,  equally  good : 
so  are  Barberi,  2,  Croix  de  Marbre,  and 
Brand,  15,  Rue  de  France ;  Strafforelli, 
Rue  Chauvain  ;  Carach,  Rue  du  Tem- 
ple. 

6.  Wine  Merchants,  —  Berlandina, 
Barbery,  Rue  Mass^na,  28,  for  French 
wines ;  Vrial,  on  the  Corso,  for  foreign 
and  common  wines. 

c.  Bakers, — English  bread  may  be 
procured  at  Martin's  shop  forming  the 
comer  of  the  Rues  de  Mass^na  and  du 
Paradis;  Braquet,  Rue  de  France; 
and  Renz  for  German  bread,  No.  5,  Rue 
du  Paradis. 

Confectioner,  —  Rumpelmayer,  Rue 
Grimaldi,  perhaps  the  best. 

d.  Tailors, — Thibaut  is  a  good 
gentleman's  tailor;  and  for  ladies' 
habits,  Gavarry  fr^res.  Morrison,  an 
English  tailor,  in  the  Jardin  Public  ; 
and  Mazzini. 

e.  Bootmakers. — ^Bouchon,  in  the 
Corso;  and  Brun  :  both  very  good. 

/.  Hatters, — Cordiglia  keeps  French 
and  English  hats ;  Medecin,  for  ladies' 
hats.  Nice  is  celebrated  for  its  straw 
hats,  of  a  peculiar  form  for  ladies,  of 
late  so  fashionable,  perhaps  the  best 
in  Italy  for  protection  against  the  sun ; 
the  principal  shops  where  they  can  be 
procured  are  at  Torri  et  Fils,  Place 
S.  Dominique,  and  Rue  du  Gouveme- 
ment.  Linen  UmhrellaSy  called  sun- 
shades, a  very  necessary  article  against 
the  hot  sun  of  Nice,  may  be  procured 
in  the  same  shops,  and  at  the  comer 
of  the  Rue  du  Pont  Neuf,  Rue  Mas- 
seoa,  price  5  to  10  frs. 


g.  English  j4r^tc/es.— Giraldon,  near 
the  Hdtel  Chauvain. 

h.  Merceries,  Silk,  ^c— Ade,  Place 
Mass^na,  well  supplied,  but  expensive ; 
Orengo,  Place  S.  Dominique,  more 
reasonable ;  Mazoury  and  Sauvin  in 
the  same  Place,  aux  Villes  de  France ; 
Gonin,  Jardin  Public. 

i.  Modistes.— Madame  Mock,  Jardin 
Public;  Madame  Haas,  Rue  du  Pont 
Neuf;  Madame  Gregory,  Place  Charles 
Albert. 

k.  Linen-drapers. — Weeks,  Place  du 
Pont  Neuf ;  Cassini ;  and  Messiah :  all 
well  supplied. 

/.  Tarneri/y  Marquetene. — Nice  is 
celebrated  for  its  inlaid  woodwork,  a 
kind  of  mosaic  in  coloured  or  dyed 
woods,  like  those  of  Sorrento  and 
Tunbridge  Wells.  The  best  shops  for 
it,  as  well  as  for  turnery,  which  is 
largely  manufactured  here,  are — Cian- 
do's,  in  the  Rue  S.  Fran9ois  de  Paule ; 
Galliena  and  Cera,  in  the  Place  S. 
Etieune,  who  also  give  lessons  in  their 
art,  now  a  good  deal  practised  by  ladies ; 
Lacroix,  Rue  du  Pont  Neuf;  Gimecle, 
Place  Charles  Albert ;  Nicolas  and  La- 
croix, in  the  Rue  des  Ponchettes,  near 
the  Hdtel  des  Princes. 

Booksellers,  Circulating  Libraries,  News- 
rooms, Stationery,  ^c. — Visconti's,  in 
the  Rue  S.  Francois  de  Paule,  and 
Rue  des  Cours,  is  the  largest  establish- 
ment of  the  kind  at  Nice,  and  a  general 
place  of  rendezvous  for  foreigners ;  the 
collection  of  newspapers,  reviews,  and 
other  periodicals  is  very  extensive  and 
well  chosen  in  the  reading-room,  for 
which  the  subscription  is  5  frs.  for  1 
month,  13  for  3,  and  24  for  the  season 
or  6  months.  Visconti  lets  out  also 
English  and  French  papers.  Giraud, 
a  very  obliging  man,  in  the  Jardin 
Public,  keeps  a  good  circulating  library 
and  bookshop. 

Chibs,  Cercles,  <f'c. — There  are  now 
2  clubs  at  Nice:  the  oldest,  called 
the  Societe  Fhilharmonique,  to  which 
foreigners  are  admitted  on  being  pre- 
sented by  one  of  the  members,  gratui- 
tously for  the  first  10  days,  and  after- 
wards by  paying  10  frs.  a  month,  26 
frs.  for  3  months,  and  50  for  the  year ; 
— and  what  may  be  called  the  English 
Club  from  being  chiefly  frequented  by 


84 


Boute  13.— iViotf — Public  Canveyaiwes^  ^c.         Sect.  II. 


our  countrymen,  in  the  Place  Masstoa ; 
there  is  a  table-d'h6te  dinner  here  at  6 
frs.,  for  which  the  members  must  in- 
scribe their  names  at  an  early  hoar. 
Gambling  in  the  form  of  betting,  al- 
though against  the  rules,  has  been 
much  complained  of  here.  Both  at 
the  Society  Philharmonique  and  at  the 
English  Club  balls  and  concerts  are 
fre<}uently  given  daring  the  winter,  to 
which  sut^ribers  can  bring  their 
families.  The  principal  Italian,  French, 
and  English  newspapers  are  taken  in 
at  both. 

Masters, — It  is  difficult  to  give  a  list 
of  the  masters  in  different  departments ; 
the  best  plan  will  be  for  foreigners  to 
apply  to  their  bankers,  and  at  Giraud's 
and  Visconti's  libraries^  for  infor- 
mation, or  for  music-masters  at  the 
principal  music-shops.  The  following 
can  be  recommended: — for  French, 
Mons.  Mallard ;  Sig.  Bertani,  a  Ro- 
man, is  an  excellent  Italktn  master; 
Sig.  Ciaffei,  also  a  Roman,  is  a  first- 
rate  singing-master,  but  his  charges 
are  high — 10,  20,  and  even  SO  frs. 
a  lesson,  according  to  the  distance; 
Andreoli,  perhaps  the  best  piano-teacher 
in  Nice;  Mad.  Cerasari,  a  Roman  lady, 
is  a  very  good  teacher  of  music  and 
Italian ;  MadUe.  Mignie  is  a  good  mis- 
tress for  the  piano. 

Pianofortes  can  be  hired  at  Balbi's, 
Boulevard  du  Midi ;  Dalguette's,  Rue 
du  Paradis;  and  at  Nolfe*s,  Place 
S.  Etienne. 

English  Protestant  Churchy  a  hand- 
some Gothic  edifice,  is  situated  near 
the  Rue  de  la  Croix  de  Marbre.  It 
is  supported  by  a  grant  from  the 
Treasury,  but  chiefly  by  the  contribu- 
tions of  the  British  residents  ;  the  con- 
tributions for  sittings  being — families, 
105  francs  for  the  season,  and  15  addi- 
tional for  every  servant ;  a  single  sit- 
ting, 10  francs  for  the  first  month,  15 
for  two,  25  for  the  season,  and  half 
these  rates  for  children.  Divine  ser- 
vice is  performed  twice  a-day  on  Sun- 
days and  holidays.  The  resident  cler- 
gyman is  the  Rev.  Mr.  Childers.  There 
is  a  second  church,  or  chapel  of  ease, 
also  a  neat  Gothic  edifice,  in  the  suburb 
of  Carabacel,  on  the  way  from  Nice  to 


Cimies,  where  the  Rev.  Mr.  Ward 
officiates.  Too  closely  annexed  to  the 
principal  church  in  the  Rue  de  la  Croix 
de  Marbre  is  the  Protestant  cemetery, 
chiefly  tenanted  by  our  countrymen, 
and  already  overcrowded;  a  new 
one  has  been  opened  near  the  Pont  du 
Var.  There  is  a  Scottish  Presbyterian  ^ 
church  at  No.  5,  Rue  Mass^na.  Vaudois  * 
Churcfij  in  the  Rue  Geoffredo :  service 
in  French  by  Pastor  Pilatte,  an  ex- 
cellent preacher.  German  Church  in 
the  Boulevard  de  TEnceinte. 

Public  Conveyances,  —  A  malleposte 
diligence  from  Nice  to  Turin  daily, 
employing  18  hours  as  far  as  Cuneo, 
arriving  at  Turin  at  midday. 

From  Nice  to  Genoa  a  daily  malle- 
poste, which  takes  several  passengers ; 
also  two  diligences.  By  one  of  these, 
at  8  A.M.,  and  by  paying  an  additional 
20  francs,  the  traveller  can  sleep  at 
Oneglia,  and  arrive  at  Voltri  in  time 
next  day  for  the  last  railway  train, 
thus  traversing  by  daylight  the  whole 
of  the  beautiful  road  of  Comiche; 
another  diligence  at  8}  p.m.  in  24  hrs. 
Fares  30  and  40  francs,  but  varying. 

The  Railway  between  Nice  and  Genoa 
is  progressing  rapidly,  but  will  scarcely 
be  completed  before  2  years. 

Steamers. — There  are  frequent  steam- 
ers sailing  between  Nice  and  Genoa. 
The  best,  the  Italian  postal  boats  of  the 
Peirano  Company,  excellent  vessels, 
leave  Nice  on  Tues.,  Thui^.,  and  Sat.,  at 
9  A.M.,  employing  from  8  to  9  hrs., 
arriving  at  about  6  p.m.,  and  starting 
again  at  10  for  Leghorn  and  Naples: 
fares,  30  and  20  fr.,  but  a  reduction  may 
be  made  for  &milies.  During  fine 
weather  the  voyage  is  most  agree- 
able. From  Nice  to  Marseilles,  also 
frequently,  those  of  the  Fraisinet  Com- 
pany, 3  times  a  week.  There  is 
a  weekly  boat  of  the  Valery  Com- 
pany for  Corsica,  alternately  going  to 
Bastia  and  Ajaccio.  A  small  steamer 
leaves  Nice  every  day  at  11  a.m.  and 
4^  P.M.,  during  the  fashionable  season, 
for  Monaco,  performing  the  voyage  in 
about  an  hour;  the  principal  passen- 
gers being  persons  who  fi^[uent  the 
gaming-tables,  which  are  permitted  hy 


filVIElUL. 


MoiUe  13. — Nice — Histoiy, 


86 


the  prince  of  that  place,  as  in  several 
German  watering-places,  the  profits 
from  ivhich  form  a  considerable  item 
in  the  revenues  of  that  petty  potentate. 

Vetturini. — A  very  agreeable  mode 
of  reaching  Genoa  from  Nice,  by  per- 
sons not  pressed  for  time  and  by  fami- 
lies, -will  be  by  vetturini.  Carriages  will 
always  be  found  ready  to  start.  They 
are  in  general  good  as  to  vehicles  and 
horses  ;  but  it  will  be  necessary  before 
leaving  to  have  a  written  engagement 
signed.  The  time  occupied  is  generally 

3  days;  the  hire  will  depend  on  the 
number  of  horses  and  passengers,  and, 
above  all,  on  the  perioa  of  the  year — 
that  when  the  charges  will  be  highest 
being  when  foreigners  are  rushing  away 
from  Nice  towards  Southern  Italy, 
and  especially  to  Rome,  in  the  early 
spring :  a  good  carriage  with  4 
horses  ought  not  to  cost  more  than  15 
Napoleons ;  with  two,  10  to  12.  Plana 
near  the  Croix  de  Marbre,  and  Felice 
near  the  Palais  du  Gouvemement,  are 
respectable  men  as  agents. 

Hackney-coaches,  fiacres,  ^c,  abound, 
1  fr.  20  c.  the  course ;  2  frs.  60  c.  for 

4  persons  with  2  horses  for  the  first 
hour,  and  2  fr.  for  every  subsequent 
one ;  with  one  horse  for  2  persons, 
60  c.  for  the  course,  and  1  fr.  60  c.  per 
hour;  the  excursion  to  Villefranche 
and  returning,  4  to  6  frs.  But  in 
going  beyond  the  city  limits,  it  will  be 
well  to  come  to  an  understanding  as  to 
the  &re  before  starting. 

Nice,  pop.  51,000,  in  Italian  Nizza, 
called  also  Nizza  di  Mare,  and  Nizza 
Maritima,  to  distinguish  it  from  Nizza 
di  Monferrato,  or  delta  Paglia,  in  the 
province  of  Alessandria,  was  formerly 
the  capital  of  a  small  independent 
soTerei^ty  governed  by  its  counts  in 
the  middle  ages.  It  passed  suc- 
cessively into  the  hands  of  the  Counts 
of  Provence,  of  the  Angevin  sovereigns 
of  Naples,  until  the  end  of  the  1 4th 
centy.,  when  it  was  sold  by  Ladislaus 
to  Amadeus  VIT.  of  Savoy,  in  whose 
family  it  remained,  except  during  the 
French  revolutionary  war  and  empire, 
to  which  it  was  attached,  until  1860, 
when  it  was  ceded  to  France ;  it  is  now 
the  chief  town  of  the  French  Departe- 


ment  des  Alpes  Maritimes.  Consider- 
able doubt  exists  as  to  the  first  founda- 
tion of  Nice  and  the  origin  of  its 
name,  but  it  is  generally  believed  to 
have  been  peopled  by  a  Phocean  colony 
from  Marseilles,  as  early  as  the  5th 
centy.  of  Rome  ;  during  the  Imperial 
period  it  was  a  port  of  some  impor- 
tance, from  its  vicinity  to  Cemenelium 
(the  modem  Cimies),  the  Roman 
capital  of  the  Maritime  Alps.  The 
name  of  Nice  is  derived  by  some  philo- 
logists from  Nike,  in  memory  of  a 
victory  gained  by  its  early  Phocean 
colonists  over  some  neighburing  Li- 
gurian  tribes. 

Modern  Nice  offers  few  remains  of 
ancient  art;  we  must  seek  these  on 
the  hills  above  it,  near  where  the  capial 
of  the  Maritime  Alps  stood.  The 
mediseval  town  appears  to  have  been 
entirely  situated  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  Paglione  torrent,  and  round  the 
base  of  the  hill  on  which  its  castle 
stood,  the  whole  of  that  on  the  right 
bank  being  of  very  modem  date,  chiefly 
during  the  present  centy.,  and  since 
the  great  influx  of  foreigners ;  of  late 
years  the  town  has  been  much  ex- 
tended also  in  a  northerly  direction, 
and  the  quarter  bordering  on  its  little 
port  much  enlarged  and  embellished. 

The  city  consists  of  three  principal 
portions :  that  on  the  rt.  bank  of  the  Pa- 
glione, called  the  Quartier  de  la  Croix  de 
Marbre  j  the  Old  Town,  with  its  modem 
additions ;  and  the  Port.  The  quarter 
of  the  Croix  de  Marbre  is  that  princi- 
pally occupied  by  foreigners  j  it  borders 
the  river  with  a  handsome  quay  filled 
with  gay.  shops.  The  square  called  the 
Jardin  Public  is  surrounded  on  two  of 
its  sides  by  handsome  buildings,  at  the 
extremity  of  which  is  the  street  leading 
towards  the  French  frontier,  and  a  new 
parade,  the  Promenade  des  Anglais, 
facing  the  sea,  constructed  by  subscrip- 
tions chiefly  of  the  English  visitors,  to 
employ  the  poor  during  a  year  oif 
scarcity.  The  English  church  and  ce- 
metery is  in  this  part  of  the  town,  which 
derives  its  name  of  Croix  de  Marbre 
from  a  marble  cross  erected  in  1538, 
on  the  occasion  of  the  an*ival  of  Pope 
Paul  III.  to  bring  about  a  roconcilia- 


86 


Houte  13. — Nice — Cathedral — Library — Museum.      Sect,  It. 


tion  between  Charles  Y.  and  Francis  I., 
"when  so  great  was  the  difficulty  of 
adjusting  the  ceremonial,  or  such  the 
remains  of  rancour  and  distrust  on 
each  side,  that  they  refused  to  see  one 
another,  and  everything  was  transacted 
by  the  intervention  of  the  Pope,  who 
visited  them  altemateb'." — Robertson^ s 
Charles  V.  The  whito  marble  colunm 
opposite  this  cross  was  put  up  in  1823 
to  commemorate  th3  two  visits  of 
Hus  VII.  in  1809  and  1814. 

N.  of  this  runs  ths  Rue  G^rimaldi, 
a  newly  built  street,  with  several  good 
houses,  amongst  whi3h  the  H6tel  de 
Louvre,  all  tenanted  by  foreigners. 

The  quarter  of  the  Old  Town  extends 
from  the  Paglione  to  the  foot  of  the 
Castle-hill ;  on  the  side  of  the  sea  it  is 
bordered  by  a  very  handsome  quay  or 
parade,  affording  a  delightful  walk,  in 
the  direction  of  the  port,  of  more  than 
a  mile.  Parallel  to  this  are  the  Eue  St. 
Francois  de  Paula  and  the  Corso,  where 
the  theatre,  public  library,  and  principal 
cafes  are  situated.  Farther  N.  is  the  Rue 
du  Pont  Neuf  and  Place  St.  Dominique, 
the  principal  centre  of  business ;  and 
at  its  N.  extremity  the  large  Place  Na- 
poleon, which  forms  the  entrance  from 
the  sides  of  Turin  and  Genoa.  The 
dirty  quarter  close  imder  the  hill  is 
the  oldest  part  of  Nice.  Near  this 
are  the  market,  the  cathedral,  principal 
churches,  &c. 

Between  this  quarter  and  that  of 
the  port  is  the  Castle-hill,  an  insulated 
mass  of  limestone,  which  rises  to  an 
elevation  of  800  ft.  It  was  formerly 
crowned  by  a  strong  castle,  destroyed 
by  the  Duke  of  Berwick,  general  of 
Louis  XIV.,  in  1706.  This  hiU  has 
been  laid  out  as  a  pubHc  promenade, 
the  entrance  to  which  is  from  the  Rue 
Segurana  towards  the  Place  Napoleon. 
Some  Roman  remains  have  been  re- 
cently discovered  on  the  summit,  to- 
wards the  S.E.,  especially  3  sepulchral 
sarcophagi  of  the  5th  century.  From 
the  summit  the  view  is  most  extensive, 
Corsica  being  easily  seen  in  clear 
weather,  especially  early  in  the  morning 
and  before  sunset. 

The  quarter  of  the  port,  originally 


a  low  crowded  place,  has  been  improved, 
and  is  approached  by  the  Qua!  des  Pon- 
chettes  from  the  W.,  and  by  the  Rue 
Cassini  from  the  N.  It  is  chiefly  in- 
habited by  seafaring  persons.  The  little 
port  itself,  capable  of  admitting  vessels 
drawing  15  ft.  water,  is  protected  by  2 
moles,  at  the  extremity  of  the  outer  one 
of  which  is  a  small  lighthouse  and  a 
strong  battery.  The  entrance  is  some- 
what difficult,  and  at  no  time  can  it  be 
considered  as  a  place  of  refuge,  from 
the  difficulty  of  its  approach  in  heavy 
weather. 

The  principal  objects  worthy  of  the 
traveller's  notice  at  Nice  are — 

The  Cathedral  or  Ch.  of  S.  Repa- 
rata,  the  principal  ecclesiastical  edifice  of 
the  town  :  it  is  in  the  ordinary  Italian 
style  of  the  17th  cent.,  and  offers  no- 
thing remarkable  as  a  work  of  art.  The 
same  observation  applies  to  the  pictures 
over  the  principal  altars. 

The  Public  Library^  in  the  Rue  St. 
Francois  de  Paule,  is  open  daily  from 
10  till  4.  It  contains  about  40,000 
volumes,  and  is  well  supplied  with 
works  of  modem  Italian  and  French 
literature.  In  one  of  the  rooms  are 
preserved  fragments  of  3  milestones,  of 
the  reigns  of  Augustus  and  Adrian, 
discovered  on  the  Via  Aurelia,  near 
Turbia;  the  most  perfect  indicating 
the  DCV.  mile. 

Museum  of  Natural  History ^2ii  No.  6, 
Place  Napol<?on,  near  the  Post-office, 
consisting  of  two  large  rooms,  in  the 
first  of  which  is  a  remarkable  series 
of  painted  models  or  faesimiles  of 
mushrooms  found  in  the  province,  and 
formed  by  Mr.  Barla,  a  rich  amateur, 
who  has  expended  a  large  amount  on 
it.  In  the  second  room  are  the  Zoolo- 
gical  Collections,  rich  in  ornithological 
specimens,  in  the  fishes  and  other 
marine  animals  of  the  adjacent  Medi- 
terranean, especially  of  the  naked 
mollusca,  formed  by  Dr.  Verani,  a 
local  naturalist  of  great  merit.  Here 
also  are  the  Palseontological  Collec- 
tions, formed  by  Dr.  Perez,  particu- 
larly rich  in  the  cretaceous  and  tertiary 
fossil  shells  of  the  coimty  of  Nice,  and 
in  the  bones  of  extinct  quadrupeds  of 


Riviera. 


Rovie  13. — Nice — Geology, 


87 


the  bone  breccia  which  fills  the  crevices 
and  caverns  of  the  calcareous  rock  of 
the  Castle-hill. 

The  Lycee  Imperiale^  or  College,  near 
the  Ponte  Yecchio,  a  large  educational 
establishment  on  the  plan  of  the 
French  Ijc^es  or  colleges,  and  receiving 
several  hundred  pupils. 

Geology, — It  may  not  be  out  of  place 
here  to  give  a  general  sketch  of  the  dif- 
ferent formations  which  constitute  the 
environs  of  Nice,  as  many  of  our  readers 
may  wish  to  occupy  thanselves  in  their 
walks  around  with  geological  investiga- 
tions. "  Commencing  in  the  ascending 
order,  the  oldest  rock  in  this  part  of 
the  Maritime  Alps  is  a  metamorphic 
conglomerate,  called  Verruccano  by  the 
Tuscan  geologists,  which  may  be  seen 
about  San  Dalmazzo  and  on  the  road 
to  Tenda.  On  this  lies,  at  Isola,  an  ex- 
tensive calcareous  deposit  referable  to 
the  lias  and  inferior  ooUte  of  England 
and  to  our  Oxford  clay,  and  with  the 
characteristic  fossils  of  the  latter  beds 
in  the  Yallee  de  St.  Andre.  The  Coral 
raff  constitutes  the  greater  part  of  the 
range  of  hills  that  separate  the  bays  of 
Nice  and  YUlefiranche,  and  the  promon- 
tory of  Montboron,  on  which  is  situ- 
ated the  lighthouse.  To  this  portion 
of  the  oolitic  series  belong  the  deposits 
of  gypsum  which  exist  close  to  the 
town.  The  limestone  of  this  period  is 
£requently  converted  into  dolomite,  as 
may  be  seen  at  the  foot  of  Montalbano 
ana  in  the  Castle-hill  of  Nice.  The 
only  fossils  hitherto  discovered  have 
been  corals  and  the  Diceras  Arietina, 
near  to  S.  Pons.  Upon  the  coral 
rag,  near  the  small  bay  des  Fosses, 
lies  a  series  of  beds  of  a  compact  lime- 
stone, without  fossils,  which  may  be 
referred  to  the  Portland  system.  The 
Neocomian  and  Cretaceous  systems  are 
well  developed  about  Nice.  The  ffault 
exists,  with  its  characteristic  fossils,  in 
the  valley  of  the  Madonna  del  Laghetto, 
in  the  ravines  W.  of  the  village  of  Esa, 
and  on  the  Mont  Chauve,  N.  of  Nice. 
In  the  two  former  places  good  collections 
of  its  fossils  may  be  procured.  Green- 
sand. — The  best  points  for  studying  this 
formation  will  be  perhaps  along  the  E. 


side  of  the  peninsida  of  San  Ospizio,  as 
we  shall  notice  in  our  excursion  to  Ville- 
franche  and  that  promontory.  The  same 
may  be  said  of  the  upper  cretaceous 
rocks,  which  abound  in  the  most  charac- 
teristic chalk  fossils,  G-ryphsea  columba, 
Ananchites  ovatus,  about  the  village  of 
S.  Jean,  and  on  the  headland  of  San 
Ospizio  itself.  Tertiart/  System. — The 
members  of  the  tertiary  period,  the 
most  developed  about  Nice,  are  the 
eocene  and  pleiocene  formations.  The 
eocenic  strata  are  well  characterised  by 
their  fossils  in  the  escarpments  along 
the  E.  side  of  the  peninsula  of  S.  Os- 
pizio, between  Beaulieu  and  the  village 
of  S.  Jean,  especially  in  the  small  Baie 
des  Fourmis.  The  richest  localities, 
however,  for  these  fossils  are  in  the 
vicinity  of  Drap  and  Pallarea,  on  the 
road  from  Nice  to  Turin,  where  about 
400  species  have  been  already  found 
and  described  by  Signor  Bellardi.  The 
pleiocene  strata,  with  the  exception 
of  a  small  patch  near  La  Trinite, 
are  confined  to  the  W.  side  of  the 
Paglione,  and  occupy  all  the  low  hilly 
region  between  it  and  the  Yar,  so  re- 
markable for  its  rich  olive-plantations, 
and  which  presents  so  marked  a  con- 
trast with  the  bare  and  arid  region 
of  the  limestone  hills  on  the  E.  side 
of  the  first-mentioned  river.  The  plei- 
ocene strata  appear  identical  with  those 
of  the  Subapennine  hills,  and  of  the 
patches  which  exist  along  the  Comiche 
road  and  at  Genoa.  Quaternary. — An 
interesting  quaternary  deposit,  which 
rises  to  upwards  of  50  ft.  above  the 
present  sea-level,  and  containing  marine 
shells  identical  with  those  now  living 
in  the  Mediterranean,  may  be  seen 
covering  the  eocene  beds  between  Bcau- 
Heu  and  S.  Jean,  on  the  E.  side  of  the 
promontory.  The  dolomitized  coral 
rag,  which  forms  the  greater  part  of 
the  insulated  lull  on  which  stood  the 
castle  of  Nice,  is  penetrated  at  its 
S.E.  extremity  with  fissures  and  ca- 
verns, in  which  bones  of  extinct  qua- 
drupeds have  been  frequently  found. 
These  remains  arc  accompanied  by 
bones  of  fresh-water  turtle  and  some 
marine  shells,  as  may  be  seen  in  the 


88 


Route  13. — Nice — Olimate. 


Sect.  It 


museum  of  the  municipality.  The 
bones  of  quadrupeds  are  referable  to 
the  elephant,  hippopotamus,  rhinoceros, 
horse,  hog,  several  species  of  rumi- 
nants, &c." 

Climate  of  Nice. — When  Nice  first 
became  the  resort  of  British  residents, 
the  salubrity  and  adyantages  of  its 
cHmate  were  perhaps  overrated,  but  at 
present  there  is  too  great  a  tendency  in  a 
contrary  direction,  in  comparing  it  with 
other  places  adopted  as  a  residence  for 
invahds.  With  its  few  drawbacks  aa 
regards  climate,  Nice  offers  advan- 
tages from  its  situation,  its  resources, 
the  facility  of  now  reaching  it  by 
railway,  from  England,  &c.,  vastly  su- 
perior to  most  of  tne  places  which  have 
been  placed  in  competition  with  it. 
Situated  at  the  opening  of  a  mountain 
valley,  enclosed  by  lulls  which  in  winter 
are  often  covered  with  snow,  the  wind 
descending  from  them  is  sometimes  cold 
and  stimulant ;  but  the  principal  draw- 
back perhaps  is  the  dry  N.W.  wind  or 
mistralf  wMch,  crossing  Provence  from 
the  Pyrenees,  is  very  trying  to  invalids 
while  it  lasts,  and  is  attended  with 
another  inconvenience,  clouds  of  dust, 
which  no  amount  of  watering  can  pre- 
vent. The  great  advantage  which 
the  climate  of  Nice  offers  in  winter  is 
its  clear  atmosphere,  bright  sun,  and 
comparative  absence  of  rain,  which 
always  renders  the  chamber  of  the  in- 
vahd  cheerful.  The  temperature  seldom 
falls  below  freeeing  during  the  clear, 
serene  winter  nights,  and  is  then  pro- 
duced more  by  radiation  than  by  an 
absolute  diminished  temperature.  The 
daytime  is  warm,  sometimes  incon- 
veniently so,  even  in  December;  and 
persons  subject  to  nervous  headaches, 
or  determination  of  blood  to  the  head, 
wiU  do  well  not  to  expose  themselves  too 
much  to  the  sun,  or  in  doing  so  to  use 
the  grey  linen  parasols  so  generally 
adopted.  The  mean  temperature  of 
Nice,  deduced  from  15  years'  observa- 
tion, has  been  found  to  be  60  J°  Faliren- 
heit :  the  greatest  heat  in  July  and 
August,  88^"^ ;  the  greatest  cold  in 
January,  27i°  j  the  mean  temperature 
during  the  3  winter  months,  48f  °  j 


during  the  3  spring  ditto,  58^;  in  June, 
July,  and  August,  78°  ;  in  the  autumn, 
62^ :  January  being  the  coldest,  and 
August  the  hottest  months.  As  regards 
the  effect  of  the  climate  of  Nice  on 
disease,  it  may  be  pronounced  excellent 
in  cases  of  chronic  rheumatism,  gout, 
and  paralysis ;  very  good  in  visceral 
obstructions,  dyspepsia,  &c.,  in  scrofu- 
lous and  glandular  affections,  especially 
in  children,  owing  to  the  dry,  bracing 
nature  of  the  air.  In  pulmonary 
complaints  of  an  advanced  stage,  a 
residence  at  Nice  is  not  to  be  recom- 
mended ;  in  mcipient  or  threatened 
consumption,  unaccompanied  by  febrile 
irritation,  or  even  in  the  secondary 
stages  of  phthisis,  a  winter  residence  in 
Nice  is  less  objectionable;  the  same 
may  be  said  in  cases  of  chronic  bron- 
chitis, attended  with  asthmatic  com- 
phcations,  but  in  ordinary  spasmodic 
asthma  let  Nice  be  avoided.  In  all 
affections  of  the  brain  this  climate  will 
prove  prejudicial  in  the  extreme.  In 
female  sufferings,  patients  cannot  "  go 
to  a  better  place."  It  may  not  be  out 
of  place  to  add  that  the  Sea-bathing  at 
Nice  is  good,  something  similar  to  that 
at  Brighton,  on  a  shingle  beach.  Bath- 
ing machines  on  the  English  system 
have  been  lately  introduced;  those  who 
prefer  a  sandy  beach  will  find  some 
beautifid  situations  in  the  deep  coves 
in  the  Bay  of  Villefranche,  and  round 
the  peninsula  of  Saint  Hospice. 

Among  the  low  hills  on  the  W.  side 
of  the  PagHone  and  behind  Nice  the 
air  is  said  to  be  milder  and  less 
stimulating  than  in  the  lower  situation 
about  the  town  and  nearer  the  sea. 
The  climate  of  some  of  the  towns  along 
the  Miviera  is  undoubtedly  milder  than 
that  of  Nice,  as  is  also  that  round  the 
bay  of  Villefranche,  owing  to  their  more 
protected  situation  by  headlands  from 
the  sharp  mistral,  and  not  being  at  the 
mouths  of  valleys  descending  from  the 
Alps ;  Mentone  and  San  Remo  are 
peculiarly  favoured  in  this  respect. 

The  advantages  of  Nice  may  be 
summed  up  in  a  few  words  :  a  dehglit- 
ful  winter  cHmate,  except  during  the  few 
days  that  the  mistral  blows,  with  very 


Riviera. 


Route  13. — Nice — Excursions, 


89 


little  pain  j*  a  town  possessing  all  the  re- 
sources of  many  capitals  as  to  lodgings, 
masters,  recreations,  tradespeople,  sup- 
plies, 2  Protestant  churches,  English  me- 
dical men,  and  abundant  society  for  those 
inclined  to  take  part  in  its  gaieties; 
and,  since  the  rly.  to  Toulon  has  been 
opened,  at  the  easy  distance  of  3  days' 
journey  firom  England.  The  climates 
of  Pisa  and  Hydres  are  perhaps  more 
equable,  but  certainly  damper,  than  that 
of  Nice,  and  consequently  more  relaxing, 
and  with  fewer  social  advantages  and 
resources;  the  same  may  be  said  of 
Cannes,  which  to  other  drawbacks  unites 
those  of  being  a  dirty  town,  the  country 
around  comparatively  bare  and  arid, 
and  the  principal  residences  for  foreign- 
ers near  a  high  road,  jfrom  which  there 
rise  clouds  of  dust  in  the  dry  season. 
As  compared  with  Montone,  the  chmate 
of  Nice  is  perhaps  more  bracing  and 
less  relaxing,  but  the  beneficial  effects 
on  disease  about  the  same. 

Since  1863  the  town  of  Nice  has  under- 
gone much  improvement,  for  which  the 
municipality  deserves  praise.  The  Quai 
lltfassena,  one  of  the  great  thoroughfares 
in  the  quarter  of  the  foreign  residents, 
has  been  widened  and  planted,  the  Jar- 
din  Public  considerably  enlarged,  and  a 
new  bridge  between  it  and  the  Boule- 
vard du  Midi  erected,  thus  forming  a 
continuous  drive  along  the  shore,  froni 
one  extremity  of  the  town  to  the  other  j 
a  magnificent  avenue  (du  Prince  Im- 
perial), formed  from  the  centre  of  the 
city  to  the  rly.  stat. ;  an  aqueduct  in 
progress,  to  bring  a  supply  of  water 
trom.  a  perennial  spring,  20  m.  distant ; 
and  it  is  proposed  to  continue  the 
drive  along  the  sea  as  far  as  the  mouth 
of  the  Var,  with  a  rideway  alongside, 
and  to  form  a  racecourse ;  with  these 
exertions  on  the  part  of  the  authorities 
to  render  Nice  more  attractive  and 
agreeable  to  foreigners,  it  is  to  be 
hoped  that  the  innkeepers  and  trades- 
people generally  will  see  it  io  their 

*  Although  the  quantity  of  rain  that  falls  is 
nearly  eqnal  to  that  of  London.  Paris,  &c.,  Instead 
of  being  distribated  over  155  days,  tiiere  are  only 
00  at  Nice ;  in  this  respect  it  has  even  an  advan- 
tage over  Mentone,  where  the  average  number 
of  rainy  days  is  80. 


advantage  to  reform  their  practices,  by 
doing  away  with  the  exactions  and 
abuses  so  deservedly  complamed  of, 
and  which  if  continued  would  not  fail 
to  drive  strangers  to  other  more 
favoured  sites,  and  thereby  render  this 
prosperous  and  agreeable  city  compara- 
tively deserted  as  a  winter  residence. 


Excursions  in  the  Enyieons  of 
Nice. 

One  of  the  most  interesting,  in  an 
antiquarian  point  of  view,  is  to  Cimies, 
the  Civitas  Cemeneliensis  of  the  Ro- 
mans, and  once  the  capital  of  the 
Maritime  Alps.  Cimies  is  less  than  3 
m.  from  Nice,  and  may  be  reached  in 
an  hour  either  on  foot  or  in  a  carriage. 
The  pedestrian  can  combine  in  the 
same  excursion  other  interesting  points, 
as  St.  Pons,  returning  by  the  Fontaine 
du  Temple,  the  Valine  Obscure,  and 
St.  Barthelemy.  The  road  to  Cimies 
branches  off  from  the  rt.  bank  of  the 
PagHone  at  the  N.  extremity  of  the 
town,  and,  ascending  rapidly  between 
high  walls  which  exclude  all  view,  and 
bordered  by  villas,  at  the  end  of  2  m. 
reaches  the  well-preserved  ruins  of  a 
smaU  -Roman  Amphitheatre,  called  by 
the  peasantry  the  Tino  delle  Fade,  or 
Bath  of  the  Fairies ;  it  is  210  ft.  by 
176,  and  could  have  contained  about 
8000  spectators.  A  short  distance 
further  on  on  the  rt.  is  the  Franciscan 
Convent  of  Cimies,  which  is  supposed 
to  occupy  the  site  of  a  temple  of  Diana 
at  the  ancient  Ceinenelium.  The  ch., 
which  has  been  newly  repaired,  con- 
tains a  picture  by  Ludovico  Brea,  the 
only  artist  of  any  eminence  whom  Nice 
has  produced.  In  front  of  the  ch.  is  a 
square  planted  with  gigantic  ilexes,  and 
an  interesting  Q-othic  marble  cross  of 
the  15th  centy.  Annexed  to  the  ^con- 
vent is  a  burying-ground,  a  favourite 
spot  of  repose  for  the  Roman  Catholic 
inhabitants  of  Nice.  Not  far  from  here, 
in  the  villa  of  Count  Garin,  are  some 
Roman  ruins,  the  supposed  remains  of 
a  Temple  of  ApoUo. 


90 


Route  13, — Nke — Excursions, 


Sect.  II. 


At  St.  Pons,  about  a  mile  from  Cimies, 
by  an  abrupt  stony  path,  is  an  extensive 
convent  over  the  rt.  bank  of  the  Paglione. 
It  stands  on  the  site  of  one  where 
Charlemagne  is  said  to  have  dwelt  on 
his  way  to  Borne  in  777.  Tlie  place  is . 
more  celebrated  as  having  witnessed 
the  assembly  of  the  inhabitants  of  Nice 
in  1388,  when  they  declared  for  Ama- 
deus  VII.  of  Savoy. 

La  Fontaine  du  Temple,  and  the 
Fontaine  de  Mouraille,  both  in  very 
picturesque  situations,  may  be  reached 
by  the  pedestrian  from  Cimies,  or  more 
easily  from  Nice,  combined  with  a  visit 
to  St.  Barthelemy  and  the  Vallee  Ob- 
scure. The  Fontaine  du  Temple  derives 
its  name  from  the  ch.  of  St.  Marie  du 
Temple,  founded  by  the  Templars.  The 
neighbouring  Vallee  Obscure  is  a  fine 
gorge,  a  Via  Mala  on  a  diminutive 
scale. 


Chateau  db  S.  ANDEfe,  Falicon  and 
ITS  Geotto. 

This  excursion  may  be  performed  in 
a  carriage  by  the  road  running  along 
the  rt.  bank  of  the  Paglione  as  far  as  St. 
Pons,  and  from  thence  along  the  same 
side  of  the  torrent  of  S.  Andr^  by  the 
road  to  Levens.  The  Castle  of  S. 
Andre  is  a  very  picturesque  ruin,  sur- 
rounded by  plantations  of  aloes  and 
cacti :  the  Grotto  is  at  a  short  distance 
beneath  the  Castle,  from  which  a  path 
leads  to  it.  Crossing  the  torrent,  the 
pedestrian  will  soon  reach  the  village  of 
Falicon,  from  which,  following  the  road 
to  Levens,  he  wiU  arrive,  about  a  mile 
further,  at  the  Grotto  of  Falicon,  at  the 
base  of  Mont  Cavo  or  Mont  Chauve, 
one  of  the  elevated  limestone  peaks 
which  bound  the  district  of  Nice  towards 
the  N.  The  grotto  is  very  picturesque, 
and  lined  with  stalactites ;  it  is  of  a 
circidar  form :  there  are  some  remote 
smaller  chambers  wliich  have  not  yet 
been  explored. 

The  geologist  will  find  much  to  in- 
terest him  in  the  excursion  to  S.  Andre 
and  Falicon. 


ExCtTESION  TO  VlLLEt^ANCHB, 

Caps  St.  Hospice,  etc. 

This  excursion,  the  most  interesting 
for  beautiful  scenery,  may  be  easily  per- 
formed in  a  day.  To  the  geologist  it 
offers  a  great  variety  of  objects  for  ob- 
servation, as  during  it  aU  the  formations 
found  about  Nice  may  be  seen  in  a 
limited  space.  The  best  mode  of  pro- 
ceeding for  ladies  will  be  to  reach  Ville- 
franche  (about  2  j  m.)  in  their  carriage, 
and  from  thence  to  cross  the  bay  in 
a  boat,  or  to  walk  rotmd  the  head  of 
the  bay  along  the  beautifiil  Comiche 
road  which  leads  to  Beaulieu.  A  very 
pretty  drive  may  be  had  from  Nice 
by  the  new  road,  keeping  the  sea  in 
sight  all  the  way,  rounding  the  point 
up  the  hill  by  Smith's  FoUy,  a  huge 
castellated  edifice,  on  a  bare  arid  rock, 
to  Villefranche  along  the  new  road,  the 
distance  from  the  Place  Napoleon  and 
the  Kue  Cassini,  where  the  road  com- 
mences, being  about  3  m.  There  is  a 
good  Inn  at  Villefranche;  but  we 
would  advise  travellers  to  limch  or 
dine  at  old  Gianetta's  homely  Locanda, 
at  the  pretty  little  cove  of  St.  Jean,  on 
the  side  of  the  peninsula  of  St.  Hos- 
pice, where  they  will  find  a  comfortable 
meal  and  a  good  bed,  should  they  desire 
to  prolong  their  stay.  A  new  Inn,  the 
Victoria,  of  greater  pretensions,  has 
been  opened  near  to  St.  Jean. 

The  road  to  ViUefiuache,  by  the  old 
and  now  less  frequented  road,  leaves 
the  Place  Napoleon  on  the  rt.,  and,  after 
passing  a  kind  of  feiubourg,  reaches  the 
bottom  of  the  hill  which  separates  the 
Bay  of  Nice  from  that  of  Villefranche. 
An  ascent  of  450  ft.  through  ohve 
groves  leads  to  the  summit  of  the  low 
neck  or  pass  called  the  Col  de  Ville- 
franche. Instead  of  proceeding  imme- 
diately to  Villefranche,  the  lover  of  the 
picturesque  will  do  well  to  take  a  path 
on  the  rt.,  which  in  a  few  minutes  will 
bring  him  to  the  Fort  of  Montalban, 
on  the  highest  point  of  the  range  of 
Montboron,  which  separates  the  two 
bays,  and  from  which,  or  a  little  fur- 
ther S.  near  some  ruined  buildings,  he 
will  discover  the  whole  coast-line  from 


1 


RlVXERA. 


Eoute  13.— iWce — Excursions, 


91 


near  S.  Ueitio,  on  theE., passing  by  Men- 
tone,  Ventimiglia,  Monaco,  to  St.  Tro- 
pez,  on  the  W.  passing  by  Antibes,  the 
islands  of  St.  Marguerite,  the  mouth  of 
the  Var  and  its  low  delta.  The  Fort  de 
Montalban  commands  the  Bays  of  I^ice, 
Genoa,  and  Villefranche,  and  from  its 
height  (950  ft.)  a  mt^nificent  view  of 
the  valley  of  the  Paghone,  Nice,  and 
of  the  rich  district  between  it  and  the 
Var,  covered  with  one  continuous  ohve 
forest  extending  to  the  foot  of  the  last 
spurs  of  the  Alps.  Returning  to  the 
Col  of  Villefranche,  an  excellent,  well- 
managed  road  leads  to  the  pretty  town 
of  that  name,  which  from  its  cleanliness 
offers  a  striking  contrast  with  the  older 
parts  of  Nice,  and  with  the  other  towns 
along  the  sea-coast.  Villafranca,  or 
Villefranche,  owes  its  foundation  to 
Charles  II.  of  Anjou,  King  of  Naples 
and  Count  of  Provence,  in  the  13th 
centy.  It  is  near  the  head  of  a  most 
lovely  Ifmd-locked  gulf,  which  offers  a 
secure  anchorage  for  vessels  of  the 
largest  size.  Before  the  Government  of 
Piedmont  became  possessed  of  Genoa 
Mid  its  maritime  territorv,  Villefranche 
was  the  naval  arsenal  oi  the  House  of 
Savoy :  it  contains  a  good  dock,  store- 
houses, &c. ;  but  since  then,  Genoa 
having  become  the  great  naval  sta- 
tion, Villefranche  was  almost  aban- 
doned as  a  naval  station.  Commanding 
the  dock  is  an  extensive  fortified  castle, 
and  a  Lazzaretto.  Though  so  close  to 
Nice,  the  cUmate  is  much  milder,  scarcely 
ever  feeling  the  inconvenience  of  the 
cutting  mistral,  or  of  the  blasts  from 
the  snow-capped  Alps.  Orange,  lemon, 
and  carouba  trees  abound  in  its  terri- 
tory, and  its  beautiful  gulf  is  not  only 
rich  in  fish  for  the  table,  but  furnishes 
a  very  ample  field  for  the  student 
in  zoology,  from  the  abundance  and 
variety  of  its  marine  mollusca  and 
zoophytes;  indeed,  Villefranche  will 
always  prove  the  best  locality  for  the 
naturalist  wishing  to  study  the  varied 
animals  of  the  Mediterranean,  as  the 
fishermen  are  the  most  expert,  and  fur- 
nish the  greater  proportion  of  fish  for 
the  market  at  Nice.  A  very  beautiful 
rood  leads  from  Nice  to  Beaulieu  along 


the  N.  side  of  the  bay,  on  a  ledge  over- 
hanging the  Mediterranean,  and  passing 
through  woods  of  orange-trees,  oUves,  ca- 
rouba, pistachio,  &c. :  at  the  distance  of 
about  a  mile  it  suddenly  emerges  on 
the  Bay  of  St.  Jean,  and  a  very  agree- 
able path,  wliich  strikes  off  on  the  rt. 
and  along  the  top  of  the  cliff,  will  carry 
the  tourist  to  the  small  village  of  St. 
Jean,  on  the  E.  side  of  the  peninsula 
of  St.  Ospizio :  or  a  boat  may  be  hired  at 
Villefranche,  which  will  enable  him  to 
cross  the  bay  to  Passable,  from  which  a 
stony  path  across  the  isthmus  leads  to 
the  same  village;  but,  although  less 
fiitiguing,  this  route  offers  nothing  of 
the  beauty  or  interest  of  the  former.  St. 
Jean  consists  of  an  Inn  (Gianetta's), 
where  a  fair  fish  dinner  may  always  be 
had ;  and  while  this  is  preparing,  a  walk 
of  half  an  hour  will  bring  the  tourist 
to  the  S.E.  extremity  of  the  peninsula, 
crowned  by  a  circular  fort,  at  the  foot  of 
which  is  the  chapel  of  the  patron  saint, 
a  recluse,  who  died  in  the  tower  where 
he  was  here  immured  in  the  6th  centy. 
It  was  on  this  portion,  called  Fraxinety 
that  the  Saracens  estabhshed  them- 
selves, and  were  only  expelled  in  the 
10th  centy.  In  the  bay  between  Cape 
St.  Ospizio  and  Beaulieu,  opposite  to 
St.  Jean,  is  the  Madrague  or  Tunny- 
fishery  of  Nice ;  it  is  in  activity  from  Feb- 
ruary until  the  autumn,  and,  being  the 
one  most  accessible  to  the  passing  tra- 
veller along  the  shores  of  the  Mediter- 
ranean, will  well  repay  the  trouble  of  a 
visit;  no  other  exists  until  we  arrive 
near  Genoa.  Instead  of  returning  by 
the  same  route,  let  the  tourist  take  the 
path  S.  of  St.  Jean,  leading  to  the  light- 
house, along  the  E.  declivity  of  Mont 
Canferrat,  and  along  the  W.  side  of  the 
wild  Bay  des  Fosses  :  a  different  path 
will  take  him  from  the  hghthouse  to 
Passable,  where  boats  wiU  generally  be 
found  to  carry  him  across  the  bay  to 
Villefranche  in  10  minutes ;  or  he 
will  find  a  pleasant  path  round  the 
head  of  the  bay,  amidst  ohve  and 
carouba  trees.  The  little  bay  of  Pass- 
able is  by  some  antiquaries  supposed 
to  be  the  Olwula  Partus  of  the  ancient 
Itineraries. 


92 


Eoute  13. — N^ice — Geological  Excursions.  Sect.  II. 


Geologicai.  Excuesion  to  the  Pen- 
Ursula  OF  St.  Hospice,  &c. 

However  foreign  to  the  object  of 
this  work  to  enter  into  details  on  dry 
scientific  subjects,  as  many  of  our 
countrymen  during  their  sojourn  at 
Nice  may  be  disposed  to  turn  their 
attention  to  the  interesting  geological 
features  of  the  country  around,  no  part 
of  it  is  better  calculated  to  show  the 
siiccession  of  the  formations  which  enter 
into  its  structure  than  the  environs  of 
Villefranche  and  the  Peninsula  of  St. 
Hospice.  The  tourist,  on  leaving  the 
Faubourg  de  Villefranche,  at  Nice,  begins 
to  ascend  the  chain  of  Montboron,  which 
is  composed  of  highly  inclined  strata  of 
limestone  of  the  oolitic  series,  probably 
of  the  age  of  our  great  oolite  of  the  West 
of  England,  and  of  the  coral  rag.  The 
Chateau  or  Fort  of  Montalban  is  perched 
on  strata  changed  into  dolomite,  a  meta- 
morphism  very  common  in  the  environs 
of  Nice,  the  effect  probably  of  the 
porphyritic  eruptions  of  the  chain  of 
Estrelles.  If  the  geologist,  before  ar- 
riving at  the  Col,  at  a  small  oratory  or 
chapel,  will  turn  off  to  the  1.,  the  path 
will  lead  him  to  a  ravine  excavated  in 
tlie  gypsum,  which  is  evidently  a  part 
of  the  ooUtic  series,  although  its  origin 
as  a  metamorphic  rock  (produced  by 
the  action  of  sulphureous  emanations 
on  the  limestone)  is  probably  posterior 
to  the  deposit  of  the  cretaceous  forma- 
tion, and  even  of  the  eocene  beds.  At 
tlie  Col  de  ViUefranche  the  green  beds 
of  the  cretaceous  rock  lie  on  the  dolo- 
mite. On  arriving  near  Villefiranche, 
let  the  pedestrian  take  the  road  on  the 
1.  to  Beaulieu,  and,  rounding  the  N., 
side  of  the  bay,  he  will  soon  find  him- 
self on  the  same  rocks  of  the  cretaceous 
system  as  he  had  seen  at  the  Col  de 
"villefranche ;  before  arriving  at  the 
lowest  part  of  the  neck  of  land  which 
separates  the  two  bays,  these  latter  are 
covered  by  a  quaternary  deposit  contain- 
ing shells  still  living  in  the  Mediter- 
ranean, and  which  continues  to  the 
escarpnient  of  the  bay  of  Beaulieu, 
where  it  attains  an  elevation  of  60  ft. 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.    Having 


reached  this  point,  let  him  descend 
the  escarpment  to  the  thick  bed  of 
seaweed  which  covers  this  part  of  the 
beach,  and  he  will  find  under  the 
quaternary  deposit  a  cliff  of  inclined 
strata  of  sandy  marls  abounding  in 
Foraminifera^  and  farther  S.  of  nummu-' 
lUes  and  other  well-characterised  fossils 
of  the  Eocene  period;  following  the 
sea-beach  at  the  foot  of  the  escarp- 
ment, he  win  be  able  to  make  a  large 
collection  of  fossils.  This  Eocenic  de- 
posit, here  very  limited  in  extent,  lies  on 
the  cretaceous  rocks  in  a  kind  oi  gorge ^ 
the  latter  reappearing  in  the  Baie  des 
Fourmis,  where  it  contains  numerous 
fossils,  amongst  others  in  great  abun- 
dance the  Exogyra  Haliotidea  j  and  in 
the  ledge  of  inclined  beds  which  form 
the  N.  side  of  the  Uttle  Bay  of  St.  Jean, 
millions  of  that  most  characteristic  shell 
of  the  upper  chalk,  the  Girphsea  co- 
lumba,  with  Spatangi,  &c.  These  cre- 
taceous beds  form  the  whole  of  the 
small  peninsula  of  St.  Hospice,  and 
may  be  seen  resting  on  the  owitic  ones 
behind  the  village  of  St.  Jean.  From 
the  latter  place  let  the  geologist  take 
the  path  leading  to  the  Bate  des  Fosses, 
and  following  its  W.  side  he  will  dis- 
cover successively  the  lower  beds  of 
the  Neocomian  series,  with  Nautilus 
pseudo-elegans,  Belemnites  dilatatus, 
Ammonites  intermedins,  &c. ;  and  be- 
neath a  compact  limestone,  which  pro- 
bably represents  our  English  Portland 
beds,  resting  on  the  coral  rag  full  of 
madrepores,  and  which  forms  the  whole 
S.  portion  of  the  peninsula  on  which 
the  lighthouse  stands,  the  Mont  Can- 
ferrat  as  far  as  the  small  Bay  of  Passable, 
the  bareness  and  aridity  of  which  con- 
trast so  singularly  with  the  richly 
wooded  region  situated  upon  the  cre- 
taceous and  tertiary  rocks. 


Geological  Excfbsion  to  La  Tei- 
NiTfe,^  Dbaf,  and  Pallabea. 

This  excursion  may  be  made  easily 
in  a  carriage,  as  the  principal  points  of 
interest  lie  close  to  the  high  post-road 
leading  from  Nice  to  Turin.  Following 
the  1.  bank  of  the  Paglione,the  road  run 


BiyiEBA. 


Jicmte  13. — Nice  to  Genoa — Turhm, 


93 


along  the  base  of  the  Mont  Yinaigrier, 
and  Mont  Gros,  formed  of  Jurassic  lime- 
stones, as  far  as  the  chapelof  NotreDame 
du  Bon  Voyage,  where  the  PagUone 
bends  to  the  N.E.,  and  from  which  to  the 
Tillage  of  LaTrinit4  we  pass  over  the  cre- 
taceous system.  This  village  is  at  the  W. 
extremity  of  a  kind  oL  island  of  Pleo- 
cenic  marls,  extending  for  a  short  dis- 
tance on  either  side  of  the  torrent  of 
the  Magnan,  and  offers  perhaps  the  best 
point  in  the  environs  of  Nice  for  study- 
ing this  modem  marine  deposit.  After 
leaving  La  Trinite,  the  road  continues 
for  about  2  m.  farther  to  the  village  of 
Drap,  still  on  the  cretaceous  or  Neo- 
comian  beds,  which  about  the  latter 
village  contain  a  great  variety  of  our 
English  greensand  fossils.  Continuing 
along  the  banks  of  the  Paghone,  we  at 
length  reach  Pallarea,  a  short  distance 
on  the  rt.,  in  the  environs  of  which 
abound  fossils  of  the  Eocene  period,  of 
which  neM*ly  400  species  have  been 
collected,  and  described  in  Signor  Bel- 
lardi's  work  on  the  *  Fossils  of  Nice.' 

EOTTTB  MIOM  NiCE  TO  GbNOA, 

194  Ml.  =  122  miles. 


KIL. 

KIL. 

Nice  to 

Alassio    .    .    . 

.  108 

Turbia     .    . 

.      .     18 

Albenga 

.  115 

Mentone 

.     .    31 

Finale     .    . 

.     .  134 

Ventlmlglia 

.     .     42 

Savona    .    .    . 

.  159 

S.  Bemo .    . 

.     .     59 

Voltri      .    . 

.     .  184 

S.  Siefano    . 

.  .  n 

Genoa  (Bail) 

.     .  194 

On^ia.  .    . 

4            ^ 

.    .    86 

• 

1     1    • 

1 

A  rlwy.  is  in  progress,  but  is  only 
open  from  Voltri  to  &enoa.  The  por- 
tion between  Nice  and  Yoltri,  running 
along  the  sea,  will  scarcely  be  opened  be- 
fore the  end  of  1867  in  its  whole  extent. 

There  are  several  modes  of  performing 
this  journey :  with  post-horses  it  may 
be  done  in  2  days,  but  more  comfortably 
in  3;  stai'ting'very  early,  San  Bemo, 
"where  there  are  good  inns,  may  be 
reached  the  first  night,  Savona  the  se- 
cond, and  Genoa,  by  rlwy.  from  Voltri, 
early  the  next  day.  Vetturini  generally 
employ  3  or  4  days,  sleeping  at  Mentone, 
Oneglla,  and  Savona :  this  is  by  far  the 
most  conyenient  way  for  families,  the 


charge  for  a  carriage  vdth  4  horses,  as 
far  as  Voltri  Stat.,  being  from  12  to  15 
napoleons.  2  good  diligences  start 
dally,  morning  and  evening,  performing 
the  journey  in  26  hrs.  Small  carriages 
at  very  reasonable  fares  may  always  be 
found  along  the  road  (it  cost  a  party, 
travelling  in  this  way,  93  fr.  from  VolCTi 
to  Nice.— ^.  S.  X.,  Sept.  1865). 
Steamers  sail  several  times  a  week  from 
Nice  (see  p.  84) ;  and  seldom  employ 
less  than  10  hrs.,  the  fares  less  than  by  , 
the  dihgences. 

Leaving  Nice  by  the  Place  Napo- 
leon and  the  fine  alley  of  plane-trees 
which  leads  also  to  the  road  of  the 
Col  di  Tenda  and  Txirin,  the  road  soon 
commences  to  rise,  and  for  the  next  10 
miles  is  one  continuous  ascent:  this 
route,  which  has  replaced  the  once  dan- 
gerous Comiche,  was  commenced  by 
the  French,  who,  before  the  fall  of 
Napoleon,  carried  it  nearly  to  Venti- 
migha,  from  which  it  has  been  completed 
by  the  Sardinian  government  to  Genoa, 
under  circumstances  of  great  engineer- 
ing difficulties.  The  views  during  the 
ascent  to  Turhia  are  very  fine,  especially 
over  the  subjacent  lovely  bays  of  Ville- 
franche,  St.  Jean,  Beauheu, '  and  the 
village,  with  its  castle  on  a  high  peak, 
of  Esa.  The  road  attains  its  greatest 
elevation  (2100  ft.)  2  m.  before  reaching 
Turbia:  soon  after  passing  a  column 
on  the  road-side,  called  the  Colonna  del 
Mhf  from  its  having  been  erected  to 
commemorate  the  visit  of  one  of  the 
late  kings  of  Sardinia,  a  road  turns  off 
on  the  1.  leading  to  the  sanctuary  of  La 
Madonna  del  Laghetto,  in  a  romantic 
valley  at  the  foot  of  Monte  Sembola, 
and  through  which  the  branch  of  the 
Via  Aurefia  passed  between  Turbia 
and  Oimies :  several  remains  of  Boman 
antiquities  have  been  discovered  here- 
abouts ;  the  most  remarkable  is  the  Mil- 
liarium,  now  preserved  in  the  library 
at  Nice,  marking  the  DCV  mile.  A 
very  gradual  descent  brings  us  to 

18  kil.  Twrbla^  a  village  at  an  ele- 
vation of  1900  feet  above  the  sea, 
upon  a  col  or  saddleback  between  two 
limestone  peaks.  Turbia,  a  corrup- 
tion   of   Trophsea,   is   celebrated    for 


94 


BoiUe  13. — Turbla — Monaco, 


Sect.  II, 


the  Tropheea  Augusti,  which  stands 
close  to  and  S.  of  the  Tillage;  and 
was  probably  a  Roman  station  on  the 
branch  of  the  Yia  Aureha  called  Julia, 
from  having  been  continued  from  Tus- 
cany to  Aries  by  Augustus.  The 
Trophfiea  Augusti  was  erected  by  Au- 
gustus, and  may  be  considered  as 
marking  the  limit  between  liguria 
a&id  G-aul;  it  is  now  a  nun:  the 
mediaeval  tower  by  which  it  is  sur- 
mounted forms  a  remarkable  object 
in    the    landscape.      Of  the    Bomau 


construction  only  the  basement  re- 
mains, which  offers  some  fine  blocks 
of  quadrilateral  masonry,  and  which 
is  supposed  to  have  been  surmounted 
by  successive  stories,  tapering  to  a 
point,  decorated  with  sculptures  and 
statues  like  some  of  the  sepulchral 
monuments  on  the  Via  Appia.  On 
this  basement  was  an  inscription  com- 
memorating the  victories  of  Augustus 
over  the  Alpine  tribes,  of  which  only 
some  detached  fragments  have  been  dis- 
covered :  one  contains  the  letters  BYM- 
PILI,  forming  part  of  the  name  of  one 
of  the  vanquished  tribes  (Trumpih), 
which  is  recorded  in  Pliny's  description. 
It  is  not  known  at  what  period  the  Gothic 
tower  which  surmounts  the  Trophsea 
Augusti  was  erected,  but  it  long  served 
as  a  mountain  fastness,  and  was  reduced 
to  its  present  dilapidated  state  in  the 
17th  century  by  the  Mar^chal  de  Villars, 
who  blew  it  up,  thus  destroying  what 
man  and  17  centuries  had  spared,  at 
the  instigation  of  Louis  XIV.'s  ally, 
the  Prince  of  Monaco.  In  some  of  the 
itineraries  Turbia  is  assigned  as  the 
limit  or  boundary  between  Italy  and 
G-aul,  and  is  certainly  naturally  so, 
being  placed  on  the  pass  over  the 
most  inaccessible  spur  of  the  Mari- 
time Alps,  which  descends  to  the 
shores  of  the  Mediterranean,  and  round 
the  base  of  which  neither  the  ancient 
nor  modem  rulers  of  Italy  have  suc- 
ceeded in  carrying  a  line  of  communi- 
cation. Leaving  Turbia  the  road  con- 
stantly descends*  Soon  after  emerging 
from  the  village  a  splendid  view,  em- 
bracing Monaco,  Mentone,  and  the 
blue  Mediterranean,  opens,  and  a  road 


branches  off  to  the  former  town,  but  with 
so  rapid  a  descent  as  to  be  only  suited 
for  mules  or  pedestrians  :  the  traveller 
who  may  wish  to  reach  Monaco  by 
carriage  can  proceed  by  a  road  from 
Koccabruna. 

Persons  residing  at  Nice,  and  making 
the  excursion  from  there  to  Mentone 
and  Monaco,  will  do  well  on  reaching 
Turbia  (2  hours)  to  send  on  their  car- 
riage to  the  junction  of  the  Nice,  Men- 
tone,  and  Monaco  roads,  to  wait  for 
them,  and  walk  down  the  steps  to  Mo- 
naco :  the  descent  will  be  accomplished 
in  less  than  an  hour.  Donkeys  can  be 
hired  at  Monaco  to  reach  the  carriage. 
The  drive  to  Mentone  is  a  very  agreeable 
one,  a  pleasant  way  of  spending  a  day  in 
the  spring. 

Monaco  {Inns :  Hdtel  de  Russie,  in 
the  Piazza,  very  fair;  H.  de  Paradis, 
at  the  Port ;  H.  de  Paris,  adjoining 
the  Casino,  where  the  gambling  tables 
are  established,  good  but  dear,  1  m.  from 
the  town),  the  capital  of  the  smallest 
European  monarchy,  is  now  reduced  to 
the  town  itself  and  to  a  very  small  ter- 
ritory near  the  promontory  on  which  it 
stands :  seen  from  the  N.  it  presents  a 
good  appearance,  surrounded  by  forti- 
fications, and  fianked  with  batteries 
commanding  its  little  bay;  indeed  the 
view  as  you  look  down  upon  the  town, 
with  its  fortifications,  towers,  and  quiet 
port,  is  peculiarly  beautiful.  Monaco 
contains  a  population  of  about  1500 
souls,  and  is  the  only  part  of  its  prince's 
dominions  over  wMch  he  still  retains 
any  authority :  his  flag,  a  shield,  en  ecM' 
quier,  supported  by  two  monks,  in  allu- 
sion to  the  name  of  Monaco  (Monachus), 
may  be  seen  floating  over  its  half-ruined 
castle.  The  town  is  garrisoned  by 
French  soldiers. 

The  principality  of  Monaco  embraced 
the  towns  and  territory  of  Mentone 
and  Roccabruna :  its  history  is  ob- 
scure ;  it  seems,  however,  to  have  been 
one  of  those  allodial  domains  which 
escaped  feudalization  in  the  middle 
ages,  and  over  which  the  Emperor  had 
no  authority;  we  find  one  Carlo  G^ri- 
maldi  in  possession  of  this  little  sove- 
reignty in  the  middle  of  the  14th  cen- 


Riviera, 


Eoute  13. — Monaco — Mentone, 


95 


tvary,  but  this  seems  onlj  to  have  been  an 
Imperial  restitution,  for  the  dominion 
appears  to  have  been  granted  as  early  as 
the  10th  century  to  one  of  his  ancestors 
by  the  Emperor  Otho,  for  the  part  he 
took  ID  the  expulsion  of  the  Saracens 
from  Provence  and  this  part  of  Liguria. 
The  reigning  family  became  extinct  in 
the  male  line  in  1731,  in  the  person 
of    Antonio     Grimaldi,    whose    only 
daughter    married    into    the   French 
&mily  of  Thorigny,  and  firom  whom 
the  present  Prince  of  Monaco,  Charles 
Honore,  of  the  Matignon  family,  and 
who  has  assumed  the  name  and  arms 
of  the  Grrimaldis,  is  descended.     Con- 
siderable discussion  has  arisen  as  to 
his  being  really  the  legitimate  heir :  by 
the  exertions,  however,  of  Prince  Tal- 
leyrand   his    title   was   acknowledged 
at  the  Congress  of  Vienna,  in  spite 
of  the  protests  of  the  then  existing 
Grimalms,   one  of   the  most  ancient 
&milies  of  Genoa,  also  now  extinct  in 
the   male   line,   and   the    principality 
placed   under    the  protection  of  the 
King  of  Sardinia,  as  suzerain.    In  1848 
the  inhabitants  of  Mentone  and  Boc- 
cabruna,  who  had  much  to  complain 
of   the  exactions   and  misgovemment 
of  this  petty  sovereign,  annexed  them- 
selves   to    the    Sardinian    monarchy, 
which  was  subsequently  confirmed  by 
a  decree  of  King  Charles  Albert,  and 
by  placing  Piedmontese  garrisons  at 
Mentone  and   Monaco.     An  attempt 
of  the  late  prince  to  re-establish  his  au- 
thority at  Mentone,  in  1854,  was  met  by 
his  expulsion.    Prance  has  stepped  into 
Sardinia's  shoes  as  regards  the  princi- 
paUty,  having  purchased  it  for  3,000,000 
francs  in  1860,  and  this  petty  sovereign 
is  allowed  to  preserve  his  castle  and  to 
exercise  authority  at  Monaco  alone,  and 
what  is  more  to  be  regretted,  to  keep  a 
public  gambling-house  on  the  German 
system,  the  only  pest  of  this  description 
in  Southern  Surope,  resorted  to  chiefly 
by  the  foreign  society  at  Nice.    It  is  to 
be  hoped  tlmt  ere  long  the  French  Q-o- 
vernment   will   put   down   so  glaring 
an  exception  to  its  general  prohibition 
of  pubhc  gaming.    By  a  recent  treaty 
all  custom-dues  on  entering  the  terri- 


tory of  Monaco  are  abolished ;  France 
paying  an  annual  indemnity  of  25,000  fir. 
to  the  Duke. 

The  town  of  Monaco  covers  a  con- 
siderable extent  of  ground.  In  the 
centre  is  a  large  place  d'annes  and  the 
Prince's  palace.  The  place  is  of  remote 
antiquity,  its  foundation  being  attri- 
buted by  some  writers  to  the  Greeks, 
even  to  Hercules,  who  undertook  several 
expeditions  to  the  coasts  of  Liguria  j  it 
is  frequently  alluded  to  as  the  Monceci 
Portus,  and  is  noticed  in  the  Antonine 
Itinerary,  under  the  name  of  Portus 
Herculis  Monoeci.  Lucan  gives  an  ac- 
curate description  of  its  situation  : — 

Quaqae  sub  Herculeo  sacratus  nomiiie  Portus 
Urget   rupe   cava  pelagus ;   nou  Corus  in 

ilium 
Jus  habet  aut   Zephyrus ;  solus  sua  littora 

turbat 
Circius,  et  tuta  prohibet  statione  Monoeci. 

Monaco  was  fortified  by  Louis  XTV* 
for  his  protege,  the  duke ;  the  works 
are  now  falling  into  ruin.  The  prin- 
cipal ch.,  dedicated  to  Santa  Barbara, 
contains  the  graves  of  some  of  the  last 
Princes  of  Monaco. 

A  continuous  descent  of  8  miles  leads 
from  Turbia  to  Mentone ;  about  3  m. 
from  the  former  we  pass  on  the  1.  the 
village  of  Roccabruna,  one  of  the  former 
possessions  of  the  Prince  of  Monaco, 
perched  "upon  a  mass  of  tertiary  breccia, 
of  which  two  large  pyramids  are  seen 
standing  amongst  the  houses  of  the  vil- 
lage ;  there  are  remains  of  an  old  castle 
and  of  some  mediaeval  towers  and  walls. 

All  this  part  of  the  country  is  highly 
romantic ;  every  inch  of  ground  capable 
of  cultivation  is  attended  to ;  gigantic 
olives  rise  to  a  considerable  height  on 
the  mountain  sides,  and  Mentone  is  ap- 
proached by  a  handsome  alley  of  plane- 
trees,  on  the  1.  of  which,  before  enter- 
ing the  tovni,  one  of  the  ducal  resi- 
dences is  passed. 

13  kil.  Mentone,  {Inns:  H6tel  d* 
Angleterre,  in  the  town,  best  house 
for  passing  traveller,  comfortable,  with 
a  fine  viewover  the  sea ;  H.  Victoria ;  H. 
de  la  Paix,  on  the  eastern  bay,  the  largest 
and  most  luxuriously  furnished ;  near  it 
is  the  H6td  and  Pension  Anglaise,  kept 


96 


Moute  13. — Mentone. 


Sect.  II. 


bj  Clerici,  well  spoken  of,  as  being  clean, 
comfortable,  and  with  moderate  charges 
(1864)  ;  H.  de  Londres,  opened  on  the 
W.  side  of  the  town  by  Boggi  j  H.  and 
Pension  de  la  Grande  Bretagne,  kept 
by  Daziano,  on  the  E.  of  the  town — 
good  cookery,  well  furnished,  with  an 
obliging  landlord  and  landlady ;  H>  and 
Pension  de  la  Mediterran^e,  near  the 
English  church;  H.  du  Louvre,  at 
some  distance  from  the  sea,  an  advan- 
tage in  certain  complaints,  such  as 
asthma,  &c. ;  H.  du  Pavilion,  very 
neat  and  comfortable,  near  the  Casino, 
kept  by  Gillot,  an  experienced  master, 
new.)  Arrangements  for  board  and 
lodging  can  be  made  in  all  the 
hotels ;  the  charge  for  each  person  in 
the  best,  including  food  and  bed- 
room, 10  fr.  a-dav.  Almost  all  the  good 
houses  are  let  furnished,  Willoughby, 
the  English  grocer,  being  the  prin- 
cipal agent.  Mentone  wUl  be  foirnd 
the  best  resting-place  for  the  first  night 
on  leaving  Nice.  This  little  city,  of 
6000  Inhab.,  is  situated  in  a  fertile 
district,  and  carries  on  a  large  trade 
in  oil,  oranges,  lemons,  the  produce  of 
its  territory.  It  has  a  clean,  neat  ap- 
pearance, and  a  look  of  more  prosperity 
and  comfort  than  most  of  the  towns 
of  the  Biviera.  French  is  generally 
spoken  here,  and  the  traveller,  on  ar- 
riving from  the  side  of  Q-enoa,  will 
see  the  sign-boards  for  the  first  time 
in  that  langu£^e.  On  the  hill  above  are 
the  remains  of  an  old  castle  and  walls ; 
at  a  short  distance,  under  the  Cape 
Martino,  is  its  little  roadstead,  resorted 
to  by  the  coasters  employed  in  carrying 
off  its  produce.  The  cUmate  of  Men- 
tone  is  one  of  the  mildest  on  the 
Ligurian  seabord,  and  perliaps  better 
calculated  for  invalids  than  Nice,  as, 
fogs  being  unknown,  the  sky  is  gene- 
rally cloudless,  and  the  N.W.  wind,  or 
mistral,  is  seldom  felt,  in  consequence 
of  its  being  surrounded  by  an  amphi- 
theatre of  mountains  in  that  direction, 
from  the  base  of  which  to  the  sea  the 
lower  hills  and  plain  are  covered  with 
gardens  of  lemon  and  olive-trees,  the 
former  blossoming  during  the  greater 
part  of  the  winter.    Of  late  years  Men- 


tone  has  become  a  favourite  residence 
for  invahds,  and  numerous  villas  in 
the  vicinity  and  houses  in  the  town 
have  been  fitted  up  for  their  accommo- 
dation.* Hitherto  it  has  had  the 
additional  advantage  of  being  more 
economical  than  Nice,  but  this  is  no 
longer  the  case.  There  is  a  good 
Club  or  Casino  in  the  once  ducal  pa- 
lace, near  the  E.  entrance  to  the  town, 
recently  purchased  by  an  enterprising 
individual,  M.  Gillot,  who  has  opened 
it,  with  the  surrounding  gardens  of  12 
acres  very  handsomely  laid  out.  It 
contains  ball,  billiard,  and  refreshment 
rooms,  and  a  reading  hall,  where  most 
of  the  foreign  newspapers  may  be  seen. 
The  subscription  moderate.  An  om- 
nibus runs  to  it  from  the  different  parts 
of  the  town.  The  Church  of  England 
service  is  performed  in  a  church, 
opened  in  1863,  in  the  E.  part  of 
the  town,  on  Sundays  and  Wednes- 
days, by  the  resident  clergyman,  the 
Rev.  Mr.  Morgan,  the  oldest  British 
resident  at  Mentone.  There  is  also 
a  temporary  chapel  in  the  W.  town, 
the  chaplain  being  the  Rev.  W.  Barber. 
Dr.  MiUler,  a  German  gentleman  and 
good  English  scholar,  accustomed  to 
tuition,  has  an  educational  establish- 
ment in  the  Yilla  Massa ;  both  he  and 

*  The  advantages  of  Mentone,  as  a  winter 
rettidence  for  invalids,  have  been  well  gammed 
up  by  Dr.  Henry  Bennet,  a  well-known  Lon- 
don pbysictan«  who  has  greatly  benefited  by 
its  climate  in  bis  own  case,  as  endowed  "  with  a 
cool  but  sunny  atmosphere,  so  dry  that  a  fog 
is  never  seen  at  any  period  of  the  winter  either  on 
sea  or  land,  which  must  be  bracing,  invigorating, 
and  stimulating."  According  to  the  same  ex- 
perienced authority,  persons  affected  with  pul- 
monary consumption,  either  in  the  early  or 
secondary  stages,  derive  great  benefit  ftuni  pass- 
ing the  winter  here,  whilst  those  in  an  ad- 
vanced stage  of  that  cruel  malady  will  experioice 
little  relief.  (Consumption  among  the  natives 
is  rare,  not  one-tenth  of  what  it  is  in  the  large 
towns  of  Northern  Europe ;  and  cholera,  which 
has  exercised  its  ravages  in  the  other  to^-ns  of 
the  Riviera,  has  never  broken  out  at  Mentone 
as  an  epidemic.  For  further  information  respect- 
ting  this  rapidly  rising  Sanatorium  the  traveller 
is  referred  to  Dr.  H.  Bennet's  work  ('  Winto-  in 
the  South  of  Europe,'  3rd  edit,  London,  1865), 
which.  In  addition  to  the  medical  information 
and  advice  to  invalids  which  it  contains,  conveys 
many  us^ul  details  on  the  geology,  botany, 
and  natural  history  generally  of  this  particular 
district. 


BinERA. 


Moute  13. —  Ventimiglia, 


97 


the  Ber.  Mr.  Sidebotham,  a  graduate 
of  Oxford,  also  a  good  classical  teacher, 
and  one  of  the  assistant-chaplains,  re- 
ceive private  pupils.  Dr.  M.  is  well 
acquainted  with  our  language,  his  wife 
bemg  an  English  lady. 

Physicians. — ^There  are  three  Eng- 
lish medical  men  who  reside  at  Mentone 
from  the  middle  of  October  until  May — 
Dr.  Henry  Bennet,  who  lives  at  the 
Pension  Anglaise,  an  eminent  West-end 
practitioner.  Member  of  the  London 
College  of  Physicians,  and  author  of 
an  interesting  work  on  Mentone  and 
the  climate  of  Southern  Europe  gene- 
rally (Dr.  B.,  who  practises  in  London 
during  the  summer  months,  has  spent 
the  last  7  winters  here)  ;  Dr.  Siordet, 
M.B.  Lond. ;  and  Mr.  Marriott,  a  sur- 
geon. The  leading  native  physician. 
Dr.  Bottini,  has  written  a  very  instruc- 
tive essay  on  *"  Menton  et  son  Climat.' 

A  good  road  (5  m.)  leads  from 
Mentone  to  Monaco,  and  forms  a  very 
agreeable  drive.  This  road  is  to  be 
prolonged  to  Nice,  joining  that  at 
Yillefranche,  and  viill  thus  form  a 
more  direct  communication  with  the 
capital  of  W.  Liguria  than  that  by  the 
high  pass  of  Turbia.  A  carriage-road 
has  been  recently  completed  between 
Mentone  and  Sospello,  on  the  high  road 
between  Nice  and  Turin.  It  ascends  .the 
valley  of  Carei  to  the  col  of  that  name 
(2400  ft.  above  the  sea) .  By  means  of  it 
travellers  can  avoid  the  detour  by  Nice, 
on  their  route  from  and  to  Turin  and 
N.  Italy  generally. 

A  new  harbour  is  also  in  progress 
to  the  E.  of  the  old  Genoese  Castle, 
which  will  be  a  great  advantage  for 
the  trade  of  the  place,  and  wUl  allow 
steamers,  now  obliged  to  lie  off  and 
land  their  passengers  in  boats,  to  ap- 
proach the  new  pier.  The  boats  plying 
between  Nice  and  G^noa  will  only  call 
here  in  fine  weather,  and  when  a  certain 
number  of  passengers  are  guaranteed 
to  them. 

Tbe  sceneiy  about  Mentone  is  very 
be&titiful  t  some  of  the  mountains  be- 
hind it,  the  Ghran  Mondo,  rising  to 
4625  it.,  afford  splendid  views  over  the 
sea  extending  as  far  as  Corsiea,  and 
iV:  ZiJa^y— 18G6. 


afford  matter  for  very  agreeable  excur- 
sions —  those  to  CasteUare,  Gorbio, 
Sospello,  passing  by  Monti  and  the 
cascade  of  the  Carei,  the  Hermit's  Cave, 
the  village  of  Giotto,  and  Castello  di  S. 
Agnese,  amongst  others;  whilst  the 
more  distant  ones  to  II  Gran  Mondo, 
Cima  d'Orso,  TAcquelle,  &c.,  can  be 
recommended. 

Soon  after  leaving  Mentone  we  enter 
the  Italian  territory;  the  road  passes 
the  frontier  at  the  bridge  of  St.  Louis, 
a  fine  arch  over  a  very  picturesque 
ravine.  The  Italian  Custom-house  is  at 
St.  Mauro :  the  French  one  is  at  so 
short  a  distance  from  Mentone  that 
persons  coming  from  Genoa  travelling 
in  their  own  or  vetturino  carriages  can 
proceed  from  their  inn  on  foot  in  a  few 
minutes.  From  the  Pont  de  S.  Louis 
is  a  long  and  steep  ascent  over  the  pro- 
montory of  Murtola.  Not  far  from  the 
bridge,  on  the  shore,  are  some  caverns 
in  the  red  rock,  in  which  have  been 
discovered  remains  of  extinct  quad- 
rupeds, with  flint  human  implements. 
From  Murtola  the  road  runs  near  the 
sea,  and  through  a  fort  on  the  edge  of 
the  cliff,  to 

11  kU.  Vewtimiglia  {Inn :  La  Grande 
Bretagne,  E.  of  the  town,  new  inn, 
on  1.  bank  of  river),  the  ancient  Al- 
bium  Intermelium,  and  the  capital 
of  the  Intermelians,  a  Ligurian  tribe. 
From  its  position  on  the  brow  of  a 
hiU,  commanding  the  road  along  the 
sea-coast,  Ventiraiglia  has  always  been 
an  important  military  position,  and 
its  possession  much  contested  in  the 
middle  ages  by  the  Genoese,  the  Counts 
of  Provence,  and  the  Dukes  of  Savoy. 
Before  the  French  Revolution  it  formed 
the  frontier  town  of  Piedmont  on  the 
side  of  Genoa.  It  is  an  episcopal 
see,  and  boasts  of  having  had  S.  Bar- 
nabas for  its  first  bishop.  The  Ca- 
thedral has  been  much  modernized 
in  the  interior ;  the  principal  entrance 
and  some  parts  inside  present  good 
specimens  of  the  Gothic  peculiar  to 
the  churches  of  the  Biviera.  In  the 
ch.  of  S.  Michel,  having  a  good  crypt, 
are  two  Boman  milestones  foimd  here, 
one  bearing   the  number   dxc,    and 


98 


Baute  IZ.-^St.  Brno. 


Sect  n. 


insoriptioDB  of  Augustus  and  Antoninus 
Pius. 

The  Port  above  the  town,  with  the 
appiroa^^hes  on  the  W.  side,  have  been 
repaired  and  greatly  strengthened,  with 
an  outwork  on  the  edge  of  the  cliff 
through  which  the  road  passes,  constitut- 
ing the  principal  stronghold  between 
!Nice  and  Genoa.  Several  Eoman  in- 
'  scriptions  found  here  are  built  into  the 
walls  of  the  cathedral  and  of  other 
public  edifices.  A  steep  descent  leads 
to  the  river  Roya,  which  is  crossed  on 
a  handsome  bridge.  A  sandy  fiat  is 
now  traversed,  in  which  runs  the  river 
Nervia,  over  which  an  elegant  stone 
bridge  of  3  arches  has  been  built, 
approached  by  an  elevated  causeway. 
If.  of  Ventimiglia  is  the  Monte  Appio, 
one  of  the  principal  spurs  of  the  Mari- 
time Alps.  Upon  one  of  its  heights 
stands  a  castle  consisting  of  2  towers, 
supposed  to  be  of  Boman  construction. 
At  3i  m.  from  the  bridge  over  the 
Nervia,  up  its  valley,  is  the  castle  of 
Dolce  Acqua,  a  fine  feudal  relic  of  the 
Dorias ;  and  on  one  of  the  heights 
above  the  same  valley  may  be  seen  the 
village  of  JPerinaldo^  the  birthplace  of 
the  great  astronomer,  Gian  Domenico 
Cassini,  and  of  Monaldi,  his  nephew, 
also  eminent  in  the  same  branch  of 
science.  A  flat  sandy  plain,  formed  by 
the  detritus  of  the  neighbouring  sand- 
stone (tertiary)  hills  which  extend  from 
Ventimiglia,  is  followed  nearly  as  far 
as  Bord^hera  (3  m.).  Here  the  date- 
palm  is  extensively  cultivated, the  nature 
of  the  soil  being  particularly  suited  for 
that  semi-tropical  plant.  These  trees, 
said  to  have  been  introduced  by  a 
community  of  Dominican  friars  cen- 
turies ago,  give  an  oriental  aspect  to 
the  country  around ;  and  most  of  them 
will  be  seen  bound  up  or  swathed  at 
their  summits  in  order  to  exclude  the 
light,  so  as  to  prevent  their  leaves  be- 
coming green,  as  this  palm  is  culti- 
vated here  exclusively  for  its  leaves, 
>  used  in  the  ceremonies  of  the  Chm*ch 
on  the  Sunday  before  Easter,  hence 
denominated  Palm  Sunday.  They 
are  sent  in  large  quantities  every 
year   to   Bome,  and  the   inhabitants 


of  Bordighera  possess  the  privilege  of 
furnishing  them  to  the  Chapter  of 
St.  Peter's,  where  they  are  distributed 
in  such  liurge  numbers  by  the  Pope. 
This  exclusive  right  is  said  to  have 
been  accorded  by  Sixtus  V.  to  re- 
ward the  ingenious  suggestion  of  a 
sailor  from  this  place,  during  the 
erection  of  the  great  obetisk  of  the 
Vatican,  who,  seeing  all  efforts  use- 
less to  raise  the  column  when  it  had 
reached  a  certain  height,  suddenly 
called  out  to  wet  the  cables,  by  which 
the  desired  effect,  well  known  to  all 
seafaring  people,  was  instantly  pro- 
cured, of  shortening  them.  Bordighera 
is  situated  on  the  declivity  of  the  range 
terminating  in  the  promontory  of  Capo 
di  S.  Ampoglio.  It  once  constituted, 
with  the  adjoining  districts  of  San 
Biagio,  Soldano,  Va^Qebona,  and  Sasso,  a 
republic  independent  in  some  degree  of 
Genoa,  but  under  its  protection.  The 
country  about  Bordighera  is  very  beau- 
tiful. A  delightful  drive  along  the 
coast  leads  to 

17  kil.  St.  Memo.  Inns:  H6tel  de 
Londres,  kept  by  Boggi  of  Mentone, 
clean  and  comfortable,  admirably  situ- 
ated to  the  W.  and  outside  the  town, 
and  overlooking  the  sea,  "excellent" 
—JE.  M.,  Nov.  1865  j  H.  Victoria,  on 
the  E.  side  of  St.  Bemo,  "very  nice 
indeed  and  comfortable*' — Leuly  Jtf., 
M(irch  1865;  H.  and  Pension  de  la 
Grande  Bretagne,  kept  by  Daziano, 
whose  wife  is  an  Englishwoman ;  it 
is  at  the  E.  extremity  of  the  town, 
and  is  highly  spoken  of  j  H.  d'An- 
gleterre,  a  very  good  house,  with  a  civil 
and  obliging  landlord — T,  S.  Jf., 
April  1865.  All  these  hotds  rec^ve 
guests  en  pension,  and  at  compara- 
tively moderate  rates. 

"  Within  the  last  few  years  St.  Bieiao 
has  been  much  resorted  to  by  invalids 
as  a  winter  residence.  An  absence  of 
the  cutting  sharp  winds  which  prove 
so  inconvenient  in  some  parts  of  Nice, 
and  a  freer  circulation  of  air  than  at 
Mentone,  give  it  certain  advantages 
oyer  both ;  the  air  at  St.  Bemo  is  not 
so  dry  perhaps  as  at  Nice,  and  hence 
generally  less  irritating  to  the  lungs 


BlVIEBA. 


Moute  13.— -Porto  Maurizio — Oneglia. 


99 


than  at  ICentone.  The  inns  axe  excel- 
lent, With  more  moderate  charges,  and 
there  are  numerous  yiUa  residences, 
either  built  or  in  progress,  overlook- 
ing the  sea.  There  are  two  good 
English  physicians,  Drs.  Whitley  and 
Daubeny,  and  Dr.  Panizzi,  a  native. 
The  service  of  the  Church  of  England 
is  performed  during  the  winter  season, 
and  a  Protestant  church  is  about  to  be 
erected  on  a  site  given  by  the  Italian 
€k>vemilient,  towards  which  a  con- 
siderable amount  has  been  raised  by 
subscription." — Dr.  C,  JET,,  July  1865. 

St.  Bemo  is  a  large  (11,000  Inhab.), 
flounshing,  and  thoroughly  Italian 
town,  the  chief  place  of  the  pro- 
vince; it  is  picturesquely  situated 
on  a  declivity  descending  to  the 
sea-shore,  covered  by  a  thick  wood 
of  olive-trees.  Except  the  post-road, 
at  the  bottom  of  the  town,  the 
streets  are  narrow,  tortuous,  and  steep. 
The  principal  church  is  very  ancient, 
and  of  the  ordinary  Gothic  style  of  the 
country.  St.  Kemo  is  perhaps  the  mild- 
est situation  on  all  the  Biviera.  Here 
palms,  lemon  and  orange  trees  grow  with 
the  greatest  luxuriance ;  and  the  fruit  of 
the  date-palm  ahnost  attains  maturity. 
On  the  outskirts  of  the  town  are  several 
gardens  planted  with  palms,  and  during 
the  summer  season  the  traveller  will  not 
fail  to  remark  the  odoriferous  effect  of 
the  orange  and  jessamine  flowers  as  he 
passes  through. 

An  excursion  may  be  made,  on  leav- 
ing S.  Bemo,  to  the  ch.  of  La  Madonna 
della  Guardia  on  the  Capo  Yerde,  &om 
which  there  is  a  magnificent  panoramic 
view  of  the  coast.  The  high-road  con- 
tinues along  the  beach  through  Arma, 
with  an  old  square  castle  at  the  entrance 
of  the  village,  to  Biva,  2  m.  before  reach- 
ing which  the  once  dangerous  torrent  of 
l»Ta«gi»  U  crossed  by  .  handsome  new 
bridge.  The  village  of  Taggia  is  seen 
to  the  1.  higher  up  the  valley,  to 

12  kil.  San  Stefa/no  al  Ma/re^  a  fishing- 
village  lying  along  the  beach,  on  which  a 
heavy  surf  generally  breaks.  Looking 
hack  towards  Capo  Yerde  the  view  is 
yery  fine.     \  m.  torther, 


8€m  LorenzOy  a  small  town  with  its 
ch.  on  a  low  point,  backed  by  roimded 
lulls,  covered  with  olive-trees.  Yines 
are  grown  in  the  plain,  which  are  said 
to  produce  a  sweet  wine  something  like 
that  of  Cyprus,  and  nearly  equal  to  it. 
A  gradual  ascent  leads  from  the  sea-shore 
up  the  promontory,  on  which  stands 

Porto  Maurizio.  {Inn:  Hdtel  du 
Commerce,  tolerable.)  The  town  is 
upon  a  hill  on  the  rt.,  the  post-road 
running  below  over  a  kind  of  neck  of 
land,  the  lowest  part  of  the  promontory 
that  separates  the  bays  of  Oneglia  and 
S.  Stefano.  P.  Maurizio  is  one  of 
the  most  characteristic  towns  of  the 
Biviera,  standing  on  a  high  promon- 
tory projecting  boldly  into  the  sea,  and 
overlooking  its  little  tranquil  port, 
generally  crowded  with  the  picturesque 
coasting-vessels  of  the  Mediterranean. 
In  the  centre  is  a  lofly  ch.  painted  in 
brilliant  colours,  whilst  towards  the  N. 
noble  mountains  form  the  background. 
The  neighbourhood  of  Porto  Maurizio 
produces  much  oil,  and  a  considerable 
trade  in  this  and  in  other  agricultural 
produce  is  carried  on  from  it.  2  m. 
farther  we  arrive  at 

15  kil.  Oneglia,  {Inn :  H6tel  Yic- 
toria,  best,  but  not  very  clean.)  One- 
glia is  a  good  halting-place  for  the 
night ;  it  is  about  half  way  between 
Genoa  and  Nice.  The  town  was  bom- 
barded and  burnt  by  the  French  under 
Admiral  Truguet  in  1792.  Andrea 
Doria,  the  great  Genoese  admiral,  was 
bom  here  in  1468.  Here,  in  the  autumn, 
the  frt>nt3  of  the  houses  are  often  seen 
hung  with  the  inflated  pigs'  skins  in 
which  the  wine  is  kept.  A  wire  sus- 
pension-bridge, with  the  piers  of  white 
marble,  has  been  thrown  across  the 
Xmpero  torrent,  and  forms  a  noble  ap- 
proach to  the  town.  A  toll  on  car- 
riages of  2^  frs.  is  paid  on  crossing  it. 
(For  the  roads  from  Oneglia  to  Turin 
see  Btes.  9  and  10.) 

From  Oneglia  the  road,  which  ascends, 
becomes  very  beautiful;  far  and  near 
the  landscape  is  dotted  with  bright 
towns    and    villages,    to    afterwajrds 

.P  2 


100 


Boute  13. — Alassio^^Albenga, 


Sect.  IL 


descend  into  the  valley  of  Diano,  cele- 
brated for  its  growth  of  olives  and 
vines. 

Diano  Marina,  as  its  name  imports, 
upon  the  shore,  and  through  which  the 
road  passes.  Diana  Calderina  and 
Diano  CasteUo  are  upon  the  hills  on 
thel. 

Cervo,  on  a  hill  overlooking  the  road, 
with  a  large  Benaissance  church. 

Cross  the  Merulaj  a  stream  which 
often  floods  the  neighbounng  vaUey. 
The  country  is  unhealthy,  and  conse- 
quently not  well  peopled.  About  a  nule 
onward,  on  the  1.,  is  seen  the  haunted 
Castle  of  Andora^  a  ruin.  Here,  it  is 
said,  a  papal  Nuncio  was  murdered; 
and  the  curse  pronounced  in  conse- 
quence is  the  cause  of  the  decay  of  the 
adjoining  territory. 

2  m.  beyond  the  mouth  of  the  Merula 
the  Capo  delle  Mele  advances  boldly 
into  the  sea.  This  cape  divides  the 
Riviera  di  Ponente  into  two  nearly 
equal  parts.  The  aspect  of  the  coast 
changes.  There  is  a  perceptible  dif- 
ference in  the  quality  of  the  vegetation, 
particularly  of  the  olive,  of  which  the 
oil  is  of  an  inferior  quaUty, 

From  the  Capo  delle  Mele  to  the 
Capo  di  Santa  Croce  the  coast  encircles 
a  beautiful  bay,  on  the  shores  of  which 
are  the  towns  of 

Laigueglia  and 

22  kil.  Alassio,  (An  extra  horse 
from  Oneglia  to  Alassio  and  vice 
versa  all  the  year.  Inn  :  Hdtel  de 
la  belle  Italic.)  The  road  runs  through 
these  towns.  Both  are  places  of 
some  commercial  activity.  The  in- 
habitants are  excellent  sailors.  Alassio 
has  6500  Inhab.  It  is  said  to  derive 
its  name  from  Alassia,  a  daughter  of 
the  Emperor  Otho  the  Q-reat,  who  fled 
to  the  forests  in  this  part  of  the  Riviera 
with  her  betrothed  Aleramo,  where 
they  lived  after  the  fashion  of  Lord 
Richard  and  Alice  Brand- 
On  rounding  Cape  delle  Mele  we 
oome  in  sight  of  the  island  of  Galli- 
naria,  recognised  by  the  circular  ruined 
tower  on  it,  and  the  name  of  which  is 
said  by  Varro  and  Columella  to*  have 


arisen  from  its  oontaining  a  particular 
species  of  domestic  fowls,  or,  accord- 
ing to  another  explanation  mentioned 
by  the  first  of  these  writers,  from  fowls 
having  been  left  here  by  some  navi- 
gators, which  so  midtiplied  as  to  over- 
run the  island. 

After  crossing  Cape  Santa  Croce, 
enter  the  beautiful  valley  of  Albengct, 
splendid  in  its  varied  vegetation  and 
rich  cultivation.  It  is  watered  by  the 
river  CentOy  one  of  the  few  streams  of 
the  Riviera  which  are  perennial.  Thia 
valley  contains  many  pleasant  villages. 
In  one,  Lusignano^  reached  by  a  road 
on  1.  before  entering  Albenga,  Madame 
de  Genlis  lived  some  time :  she  con- 
sidered the  valley  as  a  perfect  Ar- 
cadia. The  vines  are  often  allowed  to  ' 
hang  in  festoons  from  the  trees,  a 
practice  which,  whenever  it  prevails, 
improves  the  landscape  at  the  expense 
of  the  liquor.  The  female  peasantry 
arrange  their  hair  with  much  taste, 
usually  adding  small  bunches  of  wild 
flowers, 

Lusignano  is  2  m.  from  San  JFedele^ 
which  possesses  a  ruined  feudal  castle. 
So  does  Villawuova,  situated  at  the  con- 
fluence of  the  torrents  by  which  the 
Centa  is  formed. 

After  passmg  over  a  marshy  plain, 
frequently  overflowed  by  the  Lerone, 
one  of  these  torrents,  we  reach 

Garlenda.    The  chiirch  of  this  se- 
questered   spot    contains    some   good 
paintings.      The    martyrdom    of    St. 
Erasmus  {N.  Poussin)  is  a  fine  com- 
position,   though    the    subject    is    so 
horrible  as  to  render  it  almost  dis- 
gusting.    The  Virgin  and   Child,  be- 
tween   St.    Benedict   and    St.    Maur 
(Domenichino),  painted  with  great  de- 
licacy and  sweetn^s.    It  was  intended 
to  remove  this  painting  to  Paris.    More 
recently,  the  curate,  and  what  we  should 
call  the  vestry,  were  in  treaty  to  dis- 
pose   of   it    for  20,000  francs,   with 
which  th^  intended  to  purchase  an 
organ,  and  otherwise  to  embellish  the 
church,  but  the  peasantry  rose  en  mas9^ 
and  prevented  the  completion  of  tli© 
bargain.     After  this  excursion  out  of 
the  main  road,  we  must  return  to 


ElVIERA. 


Route  13, — Atbenga — Loano, 


101 


7  kil*  Albenga  {Itms :  Albergo  Eeale 
della  Posta,  outside  the  wall ;  Albergo 
d'ltalia,  rather  dirty),  a  city,  the  "  capo* 
luogo"  of  the  province,  and  containing 
nearly  5000  Inhab.  Both  within  and 
without,  the  aspect  of  this  ancient  me- 
tropolis of  a  republic  which  was  of 
sufficient  importance  to  be  courted  as 
an  ally  by  Carthage  is  very  striking. 
GPhree  lofty  brick  towers,  besides  many 
smaller  structures  of  the  same  nature, 
frown  oyer  its  narrow  streets  in  all 
the  sternness  of  the  feudal  ages.  Of 
these,  the  loftiest  is  that  called  the 
Torre  del  Marchess  Malespinaf  in  front 
of  which,  at  the  basement,  are  three 
fine  statues  of  lions  couchant.  The 
second  is  the  Torre  del  Ghuelfi,  The 
third  is  annexed  to  the  Casa  del  Com- 
mune. These  towers  derive  much  of 
their  effect  from  their  bold  machico- 
lations and  battlements,  the  peculiar 
features  of  Italian  castellated  archi- 
tecture, and  of  which  these  are  the 
first  examples  which  the  traveller  will 
see  on  this  road.  They  have  the  as- 
pect of  castles  of  romance ;  and  here 
Madame  de  G^enlis  has  locaUzed  her 
story  oC  the  Duchess  of  Cerifalco,  im- 
mured nine  long  years  in  a  dungeon  by 
her  barbarous  husband. 

The  Cathedral  is  an  ancient  Q-othic 
building :  over  the  doorways  are  some 
bas-reHe£i  in  a  singular  style,  exhi- 
biting runic  knots  and  imagery  not  un- 
like what  are  found  on  the  runic  pillars 
of  Penrith  or  Bewcastle.  The  interior 
is  modernised.  The  baptistery  is  an 
octangular  building,  supported  within 
by  Corinthian  piUars,  and  supposed  to 
have  been  a  heathen  temple.  It  con- 
tains early  Christian  mosaics,  with  a 
curious  recessed  monument  enclosing 
a  sarcophagus.  Many  unquestionable 
Boman  antiquities,  however,  have  been 
discovered  in  and  about  Albenga ;  and 
the  "  JPOnte  Lun^o"  at  the  distance  of 
about  a  quarter  of  a  mUe  on  the  road 
to  Q^noa,  is  of  Boman  construction,  at 
least  in  the  piers.  It  was  built  by  the 
Emperor  Honorius.  Albenga  is  one  of 
the  imhealthy  spots  of  the  Eiviera. 
The  frequent  inundations  of  the  Centa 
rendered  the  ground  about  It  marshy ; 


and  the  insalubrity  was  increased  by 
the  numerous  flax-steeping  grounds. 
*  Hai  faccia  di  Albenga,"  You  have  an 
Alhengaface,  is  a  proverbial  expression, 
addressed  to  those  who  look  out  of 
sorts,  or  out  of  condition.  This  insa- 
lubrity has,  however,  recently  been 
diminished  by  draining ;  and  the  steep- 
ing-grounds  are  now  confined  to  the 
vicinity  of  the  sea,  and  are  at  some 
distance  from  the  town. 

Albenga  was  occupied  by  the  French 
in  1794,  and  became  the  centre  of  their 
miUtary  operations;  and  in  1796 
Napoleon  made  it  his  head-quarters. 
During  this  period  the  adjoining  coun- 
try suffered  greatly  from  the  ravages 
of  the  contending  armies,  and  also  from 
epidemic  diseases.  In  1797  it  formed 
a  part  of  the  Ligurian  republic,  an  in- 
corporation whioh  terminated  its  in- 
dependent political  existence ;  for, 
although  previously  subjected  to  the 
supremacy  of  Genoa,  Albenga  had  con- 
tinued to  be  governed  by  its  own 
magistrates  and  laws. 

The  road  now  runs  close  upon  the 
shore,  passing,  after  5  m.,  through 

Ceriale,  a  place  abounduig  in  plea- 
sant gardens.     1  m.  farther  is 

Borgh^tto  di  Santo  Spirito,  above 
which  lies  Toirano,  The  cave  of  Sta. 
Lucia  in  the  adjoining  hill  is  filled  with 
stalactites,  and  beautiful  of  its  kind; 
one  of  its  recesses  is  fitted  up  as  a 
chapel. 

LoanOf  a  small  city,  a  title  claimed 
for  it  by  the  inhabitants.  It  was  the 
principal  fief  of  Luigi  Fieschi,  so 
celebrated  for  his  imsuccessful  con- 
spiracy. Loano  was  the  scene  of  the 
first  victory  of  the  French  Eepublicans 
in  Italy,  on  the  24th  Nov.  1795,  when 
Scherer  and  Massena  defeated  the  Aus- 
trians  with  great  loss. 

A  new  road  has  been  made  close 
to  the  sea,  to  avoid  going  over  the 
mountains;  a  tunnel  leads  to  Finale. 
There  is  a  fine  view  of  Genoa  before 
reaching  Finale.  The  rlwy.  is  carried 
through  the  Headland  or  Capo  di  Capra 
zoppa,  through  a  tunnel,  which  emerges 
at  the  foot  of  a  grand  precipice. . 

19  kil.  Mnale  Marina,  on  the  sea- 


102 


Houte  13. — Findte — Nott — Savona. 


Sect.  II. 


coast  (to  distinguish  it  from  Finale 
Borgo,  situated  higher  up  the  valley 
in  the  interior).  {Inn:  H6tel  de  la 
Chine,  not  clean — make  your  bargain !) 
Finale  was  the  capital  oi  a  marquisate, 
which  anciently  belonged  to  the  family 
of  del  Caretto.  Towards  Che  end  of 
the  15th  centy.  the  town,  passing  to 
the  kings  of  Spain,  was  strongly  for- 
tified by  them.  The  ruins  of  the  nu- 
merous forts  which  they  built  are  still 
seen  upon  the  adjoining  heights :  they 
were  mostly  dismantled  by  the  Genoese 
when,  after  a  series  of  contests,  they 
acquired  the  marqmsate,  by  purchase  in 
1713,  from  the  Emperor  Charles  VI. ; 
but  their  title  was  not  considered  as 
established  until  it  was  confirmed  by 
Maria  Theresa  in  1743.  'Bernini  was 
the  architect  of  the  principal  church,  a 
collegiate  foundation,  dedicated  to  St. 
John  the  Baptist.  Outside  the  town, 
on  the  side  of  Ghenoa,  the  church  of 
the  Carmelites  has  a  good  mediseyal 
bell  tower,  with  tiers  of  roimd-headed 
arches.  On  the  heights  above  is  the 
Castello  Gavone,  a  picturesque  ruin. 
One  of  the  towers  is  fronted  with  stone 
cut  in  facettes,  like  Tantallon  in  Scot- 
land. 

Va/rigotti,  an  inconsiderable  village  j 
soon  after  leaving  which,  the  road  passes 
through  the  fine  tunnel  or  gallery  of 
the  Ca/po  di  Noli^  on  emerging  nrom 
which  a  most  lovely  prospect  opens. 

Rly.  traverses  a  much  longer  tunnel. 

NoUi  anciently  an  episcopal  city,  and 
picturesque  from  its  walls  and  towers, 
terminated  by  the  castle,  commanding 
the  town.  NoU,  like  Albenga,  was  a 
republic,  and  preserved  its  own  govern- 
ment under  the  Genoese,  until  both 
were  equally  devoured  by  their  Q-allic 
invaders. 

The  clifis  bordering  the  road  are 
here  lofty  and  beautiral,  overhanging 
the  path ;  the  splendid  aloes  rising  in 
the  rifts,  and  flourishing  in  gigantic 
vigour.  A  view  of  Q-enoa  is  gained 
after  having  passed  the  gallery  of 
Noh,when  are  discovered  the  lofty  light- 
house, the  long  line  of  the  Mole,  and 
the  fortifications  which  crown  the  hills 
behind. 


Spotomo,  opposite  to  which  is  a 
small  island  bearing  the  name  of  Isola 
dei  Bergeggi,  now  uninhabited,  but 
upon  which  are  some  ruins  of  an  abbey 
and  a  castle. 

Pass  Bergeggi.  At  the  foot  of  the 
cliff  is  a  stalactitical  cavern,  praised  by 
the  Genoese  in  prose  and  verse.  From 
Bergeggi  the  road  runs  along  the  sea- 
shore under  Capo  di  Vado,  on  the  top 
of  which  is  a  ruined  fort. 

Vado,  anciently  the  seat  of  a  bishop, 
now  a  small  village ;  it  has  been  pro- 
posed to  form  a  great  maritime  arsenal 
under  the  Cape.  From  Vado  the 
road  continues  near  the  sea,  passing 
through  the  villages  of  Zinola  and  I 
Fomacci. 

25  kil.  Savona,  {Inns:  Grand  Hdtel 
Royal,  near  the  harbour;  neither 
clean  nor  comfortable;  baths  on  the 
premises.  Hdtel  Suisse,  near  the 
theatre;  much  better.  The  railway 
wUl  soon  be  open,  and  a  direct  line  to 
Turin  is  in  progress  from  Savona  by 
Ceva  and  Mondovi,  thus  avoiding  the 
detour  by  Alessandria,  &c.  For  the 
roads  from  Savona  to  Turin,  see  Ktes. 
11  and  12.) — A  flourishing  city,  the 
third  in  importance  on  the  Riviera, 
G^noa  being  the  first,  and  Nice  the 
second.  The  town  exhibits  much  ap- 
pearance of  activi^  and  prosperity. 
Large  quantities  of  pottery  are  made 
here.  It  is  of  high  antiquity;  here 
Mago,  the  Carthaginian,  deposited  his 
spoils  aft^r  the  capture  of  Ghenoa.  The 
acropolis  of  the  Ligurian  city  is  thought 
to  have  been  the  site  of  the  fort  on  the 
"rupe  di  San'  Giorgio."  Savona  is 
close  upon  the  sea ;  but  its  once  ample 
port  was  spoiled  by  the  Ghenoese  in 
1528.  They  blocked  it  up  by  sinking 
hulks  filled  with  stones,  and  the  deposit 
of  sand  and  silt  did  the  rest ;  and 
though  it  has  been  partly  cleared  and 
repaired,  it  cannot  admit  vessels  of 
more  than  200  tons. 

The  Cathed/ral  was  built  in  1604,  an 
older  and  more  curious  structure  having 
been  demoUshed  to  make  way  for  the  - 
fortifications.  This  former  cathedral  ' 
had  been  enriched  by  the  munificence 
of  Pope  Julius  II.  (Giulio  della  Bovere)! 


HiVIEBA. 


Boute  13. — Savona. 


103 


who,  bom  at  Albisola  close  bj,  was 
bishop  of  this  see  at  the  time  of  his 
election  to  the  papal  dignity.  Some 
of  the  ornaments  of  the '  present  cathe- 
dral are  his  gifts,  having  been  saved 
from  the  demolished  structiire ;  as,  for 
example,  the  fine  wood-work  of  the 
choir.  It  contains  some  good  paintings. 
A  Virgin  and  Child,  by  Lodovico  Brea  ; 
the  Annunciation  and  Presentation,  by 
Albafd  ;  the  Scourging  of  om^  Lord,  by 
Jj.Cambict8i;  LaMadonnadellaColonna, 
by  RobertelU.  The  last  is  a  fresco,  and 
80  called  because  it  was  painted  on  a 
pillar  in  the  ancient  Duomo,  from  which 
it  was  ingeniously  detached,  and  placed 
in  its  present  situation.  In  the  chapel 
of  the  Madonna  is  a  large  painting  in 
seven  compartments,  the  Virgin  and 
several  Saints  in  a  richly-sculptured 
framework,  representing  the  front  of  a 
church,  and  exhibiting  the  allusive  arms 
of  the  house  of  Rovere, — an  oak-tree, 
surmounted  by  the  cardinal's  hat.  It 
was  the  gift  of  Pope  Julius;  and  as 
almost  every  picture  in  Italy  has  its 
stoiy,  it  is  said  with  respect  to  this, 
that  Julius,  who,  when  Pope,  threatened 
Michael  Angelo  with  ahidter,  or  some- 
thing as  bad,  because  he  did  not  paint 
fiist  enough,  employed  seven  painters 
upon  this  work,  in  order  to  get  it  soon 
out  of  hand.  The  best  compartment  is 
the  St.  John  by  Lodovico  Brea,  There 
is  a  curious  painted  and  gilt  bas-relief 
of  the  Assumption  of  the  Virgin  in 
the  N.  transept,  brought  from  the  old 
Duomo.  Near  the  cathedral  stands 
the  Sistlne  Chapel,  founded  by  Sixtus 
IV.  (1471-1484),  also  of  the  famUy 
of  La  Bovere,  and  uncle  of  Julius  II., 
as  a  place  of  sepulture  for  his  ancestors. 
His  father  was,  however,  but  a  poor 
fisherman,  though  descended  from  a 
noble  family. 

Savona  was  the  birthplace  of  Chta- 
brera,  one  of  the  best  poets  of  the  17th 
century.  He  was  liighly  successful  as 
a  lyric  poet :  "  and  though  the  Ghrecian 
rooe  is  never  cast  away,  he  imitated 
^Inacreon  with  as  much  skiU  as  Pindar." 
CSuabrera  also  wrote  much  poetry  of  a 
devotional  character;  and  over  his  tomb 
in.  1^  church  of  San'  Giacomo  he  caused 


this  impressive  inscription  to  be  en- 
graved:— 

*<  Amieo,  lo,  vivendo,  cercava  eonforlo 

Nel  Monte  Parnaaso : 

Tu,  meglio  consigliato,  eercalo 

Nel  Calvario." 

In  the  Dominican  church  is  a  paint- 
ing attributed  to  Albert  Durer,  The 
Nativity,  by  Antonio  Sendni.  Lanzi 
says  of  this  picture  that  it  is  sufficient 
to  see  it  to  be  convinced  that  Semini 
rivals  not  only  Perugino,  but  Kaphael 
himself.  In  the  cloister  of  this  chiirch 
is  a  bust  to  the  memory  of  Chia- 
brera^  beneath  which  is  an  inscrip- 
tion written  by  Pope  Urban  VIII. 
The  viUa  in  wU ch  Chiabrera  lived  is 
near  the  ch.  of  S<m*  Qiacomo,  his 
burial-place.  The  house  in  which  he 
was  bom  is  in  the  town,  with  the 
significant  motto  which  he  chose, 
"  Nihil  ex  omni  parte  heatum"  And 
the  newly-erected  theatre  is  dedicated 
to  him. 

One  of  the  towers  of  the  port  is 
decorated  by  a  colossal  statue  'of  the 
Virgin,  beneath  which,  in  large  cha- 
racters, is  engraved  the  following  in- 
scription, which  may  (after  a  sort)  be 
read  either  in  Latin  or  Italian. 

**  In  mare  irato,  in  subita  procella, 
Invoco  te,  nostra  beuigna  stella." 

This  conceit  has  been  attributed  to 
Chiabrera;  but  there  is  not  the  slightest 
authority  for  supposing  him  to  be  its 
author.  It  is  part  of  a  popular  hymn 
sung  by  the  sailors  and  fishermen  on 
this  coast. 

The  sanctuary  of  Nostra  Siffnora  di 
Misericordia,  situated  about  5  miles 
from  Savona,  is  a  celebrated  place 
of  pilgrimage,  and  well  worthy  of  a 
visit,  though  the  road  is  only  practi- 
cable for  light  carriages.  It  is  embo- 
somed in  the  mountains.  The  church  is 
built  over  the  spot  where  a  miraculous 
appearance  of  the  Madonna  is  said 
to  have  taken  place  in  1536 ;  and, 
though  of  such  recent  origin,  the  devo- 
tion of  the  Riviera  so  increased  its 
treasures,  that  they  were  thought  only 
second  to  those  of  Loretto.  The  greater 
part  of  these  disappeared  under  the 


104 


Boute  13.  —  Varazze —  Cogohtto. 


Sect.  n. 


French;  but  the  sanctuary  has  been 
somewlwt  replenished,  particularly  by 
a  crown  of  silver  studded  with  gems, 
placed  on  the  head  of  the  image  by 
Pope  Pius  VII.  Marino  and  Chiabrera 
in  poetry,  and  Bernardo  Castello  in 
painting,  yied  with  each  other  in  ex- 
ercising their  talents  in  honour  of  this 
sanctuary.  The  church  is  filled  with 
.paintings  by  OasteUo,  containing  nearly 
the  whole  life,  legendary  as  well  as  scrip- 
tural, of  the  Virgin.  They  are  much 
faded.  Castello  was  the  intimate  friend 
of  Tasso  ;  and  one  of  the  most  prized 
editions  of  the  Gerusalemme  is  adorned 
with  engravings,  partly  executed  by 
Agostino  Caracci  &om  his  designs. 
Other  objects  in  this  church  are  a  Pre- 
sentation of  the  Virgin  by  DomenicMno  ; 
and  an  alto-rilievo  of  St.  EUzabeth  and 
the  Virgin  by  Bernini.  The  valley  of  the 
sanctuary  is  properly  called  the  Valley 
of  San' Bernardo.  In  the  small  chapel 
of  the  village  is  a  very  curious  and  well- 
preserved  painting  of  an  early  date 
(1345))  containing  14  figures  upon  a 
gold  ground. 

Leaving  Savona  for  Genoa,  the  rlwy. 
will  run  more  inland  as  far  as  Albisola ; 
in  several  parts  timnelled  through  the 
rock  where  the  last  abutments  of  the 
hills  come  down  into  the  sea^  and 
in  some  parts  supported  by  terraces. 
Along  this  part  of  the  Biviera  may 
be  seen  villas,  sometimes  high  above 
the  road,  sometimes  on  its  level,  with 
their  gardens  gay  with  bowers,  terraces, 
treUis  walks,  and  the  brightest  profu- 
sion of  trees,  and  shrubs,  and  flowers. 
These  gardens  are  generally  in  the  old- 
fashioned,  regular  style,  and  are  mostly 
entered  by  a  lofty  gate,  once  sur- 
mounted by  armorial  bearings.  Al- 
most all  the  buildings  were  originally 
painted  on  the  outside,  but  these  paint- 
ings are  all  more  or  less  washed  ofi", 
or  faded,  by  exposure  to  the  rain  and 
sun.  The  traveller  will  have  seen  the 
first  specimens  at  Nice  of  this  kind  of 
decoration. 

Albisola  Marina,  at  the  opening  of 
a  pleasant  valley,  stretches  along  the 
shore.  The  town  of  Albisola  Supe- 
riore,  1  m.   on  1.,  contains  a  palace 


of  the  Delia  Bovere  family,  not  the 
building  in  which  Pope  Julius  was 
bom,  though  he  was  a  native  of  the 
town.  In  the  principal  church,  the 
Madonna  della  Concordia^  are  some 
good  paintings  by  MaseUa  and  An^ 
8(Udo, 

Cells,  In  the  church  of  St.  Michael 
is  a  picture  of  the  Archangel  by  Pierino 
del  Vaga^  painted  by  him  in  fulfilment 
of  a  vow  made  during  a  storm.  Follow- 
ing the  coast-line,  we  reach 

Varazze,  or  Varagine,  a  large  town 
of  importance,  stretching  along  the 
coast  for  more  than  a  mile.  Here 
are  built  a  large  proportion  of  the 
mercantile  marine  of  Genoa,  the  slips 
for  which  along  the  beach  form  a 
busy  and  interesting  scene.  It  is  the 
birthplace  of  Jacopo  di  Varagine,  the 
author  or  compiler  of  the  well-known 
Golden  Legend,  a  collection  of  monk- 
ish legends  of  saints,  miracles,  and 
adventures  of  the  devil,  which  was 
most  popular  in  the  13th,  14th,  and 
15th  centuries.  It  has  the  fame  of 
being  the  chief  book  which  trans- 
formed Loyola  from  a  soldier  to  a  re- 
ligious enthusiast.  In  1292  its  author 
became  Archbishop  of  G^noa,  where 
he  excelled  in  charity  and  benevolence, 
and  was  most  useful  in  putting  down 
the  factions  by  which  the  city  was 
•disturbed.  In  the  hUls  above  Vo- 
ragine  is  a  very  singular  monastery, 
most  appropriately  called  "  II  De- 
serto."  It  was  founded  by  a  noble 
lady  of  the  family  of  Balbo  Palla- 
vicini.  According  to  fame,  she  was 
exceedingly  beautiful,  and  is  said  to 
be  somewhat  profanely  represented  ia 
the  character  of  the  Madonna,  though 
in  the  Genoese  dress  of  the  16th  cent., 
on  an  exquisite  altarpiece  by  MateUa, 

Pass  the  cape  or  headland  of 

Cogoletto.  Before  entering  this  town 
is  an  extensive  foundry  of  shot  and 
shells.  Cogoletto  is  by  tradition  the 
birthplace  of  Columbus ;  and  if  futh 
is  to  be  given  to  inscriptions,  we  may 
see  the  house  in  which  he  was  bom. 
On  the  other  hand,  the  house  of  his 
father  Domenico  can  be  proved  by  title- 
deeds   to  have  been  situated  in  the 


Riviera. 


Moute  13. — VottiH — Peglt — Sestri. 


105 


Buburbs  of  G-enoa,  and  he  himeelf  states 
that  he  was  bom  in  Q-enoa,  an  expres- 
sion which,  however,  wa«  quite  com- 
patible with  his  being  bom  within  the 
territory.  The  family  can  be  traced  in 
Savona,  Oneglia,  and  all  about  the 
neighbourhood;  and  the  fact  of  his 
being  a  Ligurian  is  unquestionable. 

The  country  through  which  the  road 
passes  between  Cogoletto  and  Arenzana 
offers  the  most  picturesque  and  varied 
scenery,  and  the  most  luxurious  rich- 
ness of  vegetation,  fine  woods  of  pinas- 
ters and  evergreen  oaks,  with  an  under- 
growth of  myrtles  and  various  kinds  of 
the  most  beautifcd  heaths,  astragals, 
and  lilies  rearing  their  taU  stems  and 
snow-white  blossoms  among  the  shrubs. 
The  view  on  descending  towards  Aren- 
zana is  enchanting. 

20  kil.  Arenzana,  a  pleasing  village. 

Voltri,  a  flourishing  tosm  of  8000 
Inhab.,  with  churches  richer  adorned. 
Much  paper  is  manufactured  in  this 
town  and  its  neighbourhood.  Anciently 
the  Genoese  supplied  most  parts  of 
Burope  with  paper,  and  a  considerable 
quantity  is  stUl  exported  to  S.  Ajnerica. 
It  is  said  to  have  the  property  of  re- 
sisting the  worm  better  than  any  other, 
a  quality  supposed  to  be  derived  from 
the  sulphureous  impregnation  of  the 
water  with  which  it  is  made.  This  is 
particularly  the  case  with  the  mills  in 
the  valley  of  the  Leira,  about  three 
miles  off.  The  paper  made  there  used 
to  be  much  in  request  in  Spain.  In  this 
valley  are  the  siilphureous  springs  of 
the  Aqua  Santa,  a«  it  is  called,  which 
rush  out  very  copiously  near  the  chapel 
dedicated  to  the  "  Madonna  delta  Aqua 
Santa^*  to  whose  intercession  the  heal- 
ing powers  of  the  waters  have  been 
ascribed.  A  bath-house  has  been  re- 
cently erected  here.  The  waters  are  very 
clear  at  the  source,  and  are  considered 
venr  efficacious  in  cutaneous  diseases, 
and  are  much  frequented  by  the  Ge- 
noese during  the  summer  months. 
There  is  a  villa  of  the  Marchese  Brignole 
at  Voltri,  in  a  lovely  situation.  The 
nulway  between  Yolm  and  Genoa  was 
opened  in  1856,  to  be  oontinued  to  Sa- 


vona and  Nice :  the  distance  to  Savona 
is  reckoned  30  kil.  j  to  Genoa  9J  m., 
performed  in  35  min.  It  runs  close  to 
the  sea  the  whole  wav  untU  it  joins 
the  line  from  Turin,  beiore  entering  the 
tunnel  beyond  San  Pierdarena.  It  will 
be  more  convenient  for  persons  tra- 
velling by  vetturino,  as  those  by  post 
must  do,  to  send  on  their  carriage  to 
Voltri  or  Savona. 

3  kil.  Pra  (Stat.),  which  almost 
joins  on  to 

2  kil.  Pegli  (Stat.) ,  another  town.  The 
vfiUa  Ortmaldi  has  a  small  Botanie 
Garden.  The  villa  Doriaia&ie.  It  was 
built  by  Adamo  Centuriono,  one  of  the 
richest  merchants  of  Genoa  in  the  time 
of  Charles  V.  When  the  emp.  was 
preparing  for  his  expedition,  his  trea- 
surer borrowed  200,000  crowns  from 
Centurione,  who  immediately  paid  over 
the  amount  in  ready  money,  and  then 
forthwith  sent  a  receipt  in  full  to 
Charles  V.,  who  cast  it  into  the  flames, 
determining  not  to  be  outdone  in  con- 
fidence and  generosity.  A  story  not 
dissimilar  in  spirit  is  told  of  the 
Fuggers  of  Augsburgh.  The  Villa  Pal' 
lavicini  at  Pegli  well  deserves  a  visit ; 
the  grounds  have  been  laid  out  at 
great  expense,  large  artificial  grottos 
constructed  with  stalactitic  masses 
brought  from  a  great  distance,  and 
subterranean  lakes  formed,  over  which 
the  visitor  is  conducted  in  a  boat.  As 
an  order  to  visit  this  villa  is  required, 
it  may  be  more  conveniently  done  from 
G^noa,  from  which  it  is  less  than  half 
an  hour's  drive  by  rly.  Orders  may 
be  obtained  at  the  Palazzo  Pallavicim, 
in  the  Strada  Carlo  Felice. 

The  church  of  Monf  Oliveto  is  on 
a  hill  above.  Here  is  a  remarkable 
picture  by  Francesco  Succhi  of  Pavia, 
with  the  date  1527.  The  subject  is  the 
Descent  from  the  Cross ;  it  is  in  excellent 
preservation.  The  background,  an  exten- 
sive landscape,  retreating  in  perspective, 
is  painted  with  Flemish  accuracy. 

3  kil.  Sestri  di  Ponente  (Stat.),  a 
flourishing  town  of  6000  Inhab.  In  the 
principal  church  is  a  painting  of  the 

Y  3 


106 


Houte  13. — Nice  to  Genoa  by  Sea, 


Sect.  II. 


bark  of  St.  Peter,  by  Fiasella,  Behind 
Sestri  rises  the  hill  of  La  Madonna  del 
Gazo,  crowned  by  a  chapel,  with  a 
colossal  statue  of  the  Virgin.  From 
this  point,  in  every  direction,  the  view 
is  magnificent.  The  Villa  8erra^  with 
its  terraces  and  hanging  gardens,  is 
very  striking. 

Pass  the  monastery  of  SawP  Andrea^ 
now  the  Villa  Vivaldi,  4  kiL  Comi- 
gliano  Stat,  a  flourishing  town.  Like 
many  others  on  this  coast  it  is  com- 
posed of  two — the  "  'longshore  "  town, 
and  the  one  more  inland.  Here  are 
rather  extensive  manufactures  of  printed 
calicos.  The  Serra  Palace  has  a  fine 
elevation.  On  the  height  above  Cor- 
nigliano  is  the  church  of  Santa  Maria 
Incoronata,  which  contains  a  Holy 
Family  by  Pierino  del  Vaga,  of  great 
sweetness,  but  in  a  bad  condition.  Be- 
low this  church  is  an  oratory  attached 
to  a  convent,  which  contains  some 
frescoes  of  merit ;  the  ceiling  is  attri- 
buted to  P.  del  Vaga. 

Cross  the  JPolceoera.  The  bridge 
over  the  river  was  built  at  the  ex- 
pense of  the  Durazzo  family.  Here 
Massena  signed  his  capitulation  with 
Lord  Keith  and  the  Austrians  for  the 
surrender  of  Cbnoa. 

1  kil.  San  Pierdarena  Stat,  may  be 
considered  a  suburb  of  G-enoa,  but 
which  is  not  seen  until  passing  the 
gate  of  the  Lantema,  or  emerging  from 
the  railway  tunnel,  when  the  city,  its 
harbour,  and  the  shipping  burst  in  all 
their  beauty  on  the  traveller.  In  the 
principal  church  of  S.  Pierdarena  are 
some  good  paintings.  The  Flight  into 
Egypt,  by  Cambiaso;  the  Virgin,  by 
Castello  i  and  some  frescoes,  by  Ma^ 
sella.  The  Palazzo  Spinola  is  an  ex- 
cellent specimen  of  a  Genoese  villa.  The 
^preat  saloon  on  the  first  floor  is  painted 
m  fresco  by  Carlone.  The  Villa  Im- 
periale  also  contains  frescoes.  Palazzo 
Sauli,  smaller,  but  a  good  specimen  of 
architectural  skill. 

4  kil.  Genoa  Teeminus,  a  handsome 
building  opening  linto  the  Piazza  di 
Acqua  Verde,  which  is  decorated  by  the 


richly  sculptured  monument  to  Ck>lum- 
bos. 

l^Nice  to  Oenoa  by  Sea, — The  voyage 
between  Nice  and  Genoa  is  a  most 
agreeable  one  in  fine  weather,  being 
generally  performed  in  from  8  to 
9  hrs. ;  the  steamers  leaving  at  9  a,m. 
reach  Genoa  about  6  p.m.  The  boats 
usually  hug  the  land,  off  which  the 
wind  blows  during  the  winter  season, 
passing  close  to  the  Gapes  of  Villa- 
iranca  and  of  Sant*  Ospizio,  cross- 
ing  the  Bay  of  Beaulieu,  auring  which 
the  views  of  Esa,  Turbia,  Roccabruna, 
and  Monaco  are  very  fine.  The  Cape 
of  San  Martino  is  soon  after  passed, 
and  beyond  it  Mentone,  separated  from 
Ventimiglia  by  a  precipitate  cliff  and 
a  low  sandy  beach,  behind  which,  on 
the  hills,  are  seen  several  picturesquely 
situated  villages,  one  of  which  is  Peri- 
naldo,  the  country  of  the  Cassinis. 
Bordighiera  may  be  recognised  by  the 
plantationffof  palm-trees  that  surround 
It  on  the  E.  side;  the  cape  beyond 
shuts  in  the  Bay  of  St.  Remo  and  the 
town  of  that  name  on  the  W.,  the 
principal  hotels  of  which  are  seen 
along  the  beach;  the  whole  country 
behind  forming  a  vast  amphitheatre 
covered  with  olive-groves,  and  these 
a^in  capped  with  vines.  The  me- 
diaeval town  of  St.  Kemo  is  on  the 
hill  side,  the  modem  one  on  the  shore 
at  its  base.  Some  way  beyond  we 
round  the  Capo  Verde,  with  a  church 
on  it ;  and  beyond,  the  hamlet  of  Ibrre 
delle  Armif  so  called  from  the  square 
tower  on  the  W.  side.  To  this  succeeds 
the  wide  valley  of  Taggia,  Beyond  here 
is  the  point  and  fishing  village  of  St. 
Lorenzo,  from  which  the  high  road  and 
line  of  railway  skirt  the  shore  to  St. 
Maurizio,  on  a  high  out-jutting  promon- 
tory, forming  a  very  picturesque  head- 
land seen  from  seaward:  its  little  port, 
as  well  as  the  neighbouring  one  of 
Oneglia,  where  the  steamers  generally 
stop,  being  protected  from  S.  E.  winds 
and  seas  by  artificial  piers.  Beyond 
Oneglia  we  pass  close  under  the  head- 
land which  separates  the  valleys  of 
Oneglia  and  Diano,  in  which  are  seen 
the  villages  of  Diano  and  Cervo,  with  a 
large  church  in  the  Renaissance  style, 
bounded  on  its  E.  side  by  the  Capo  delle 


Riviera. 


Boute  13. — Genoa — Stedmerst 


107 


Mele,  surmoanted  by  a  fine  lighthouse, 
the  only  one  between  Villafranca  and 
Genoa ;  beyond  here  gusts  of  wind  are 
generally  experienced  from  the  Apen- 
nines. The  towns  of  Alassio  and  Al- 
benga,  easily  recognised  by  its  red 
towers,  and  the  island  of  Gallinaria, 
are  successively  passed  before  coming 
abreast  of  the  promontory  or  Capo  di 
Noli,  before  reaching  which  open  out 
Loano,  Fietra,  and  Finale ;  and  beyond. 
Noli,  Spotx)md,  the  island  of  Bareggi,  and 
Vado,  before  reaching  Savona,  18  m. 
from  Genoa.  Beyond  Savona  numerous 
villages  are  passed,  the  coast  becoming 
more  thickly  inhabited ;  the  principal 
towns  being  Albisola,  Varazze,  Cogo- 
letto,  and  ArezzanOy  all  thriving  mari- 
time localities,  before  reaching  Voltri. 
After  which  pass  before  Fegli  and  its 
beautiful  valley,  Corigliano^  and  San  Pier 
^ Arena,  before  rounding  the  lighthoufie 
point,  from  which  the  view  of  the  city 
is  surpassingly  magnificent.  One  of  the 
greatest  drawbacks  which  attend  this 
voyage  arises  from  the  confusion  on 
landing.  The  tariff  for  boats,  including 
a  moderate  quantity  of  luggage,  is 
1  fr.  Luggage  is  examined,  but  the 
custom-house  officers  are  most  obliging 
and  civil ;  1  fr.  will  be  ample  remune^ 
ration  for  the  porters  who  carry 
luggage  to  the  travellers'  hotels,  most 
of  which  are  at  a  short  distance  from 
the  landing-place.] 

GENOA,  Ital.  Genova,  and  called 
"La  Superba."  Inns:  Hotel  Feder 
(now  kept  by  Trombetta,  of  the  Hdtel 
de  TEurope  at  Turiii),  formerly  the 
Palace  of  the  Admiralty,  is  now  one 
of  the  best  in  Genoa,  very  clean, 
with  an  excellent  cook  and  moderate 
charges  (table-d'hdte,  4  fr.) ;  servants 
speak  English.  Hdtel  de  I'ltalie,  in 
the  Baggi  palace;  it  has  been  fitted 
up  to  insure  every  comfort.  The  front 
windows  of  both  these  houses  com- 
mand a  view  over  the  harbour,  the 
lighthouse,  and  the  eastern  part  of 
the  town.  H6tel  Boyal,  formerly  Al- 
bergo  di  Londra;  very  comfortable; 
the  landlady  is  English.  Hdtel  de  la 
Ville,  on  the  Port,  kept  by  Schmitz ; 
this  hotel  is  well  spoken  of.     Ooce 


di  Malta,  also  good;  this  house  once 
belonged  to  the  Order  whose  name  it 
bears ;  forming  part  of  it  is  a  lofty 
tower,  from  which  its  inmates  may 
enjoy  a  very  extensive  panoramic  view 
of  Genoa,  its  harbour,  lighthouse,  &c. 
In  this  hotel  IVir.  Mossa  keeps  one  of 
the  principal  shops  of  fihgree-work,  for 
which  he  received  a  medal  at  the  great 
Exposition  of  1851.  H6tel  des  Quatre 
Nations,  kept  by  Cevasco;  very  com- 
fortable, with  reasonable  charges.  H6tel 
de  la  Grande  Bretagne.  H6tel  de 
France,  opposite  the  H.  Feder.  The 
Alh.  delta  Vtttoria,  in  the  Piazza 
dell'  Annunziata;  the  Lega  Italiana, 
and  the  Albergo  Nazionale,  in  the 
Piazza  dell'  Acqua  Yerde,  the  nearest 
to  the  Bly.  Stat.;  and  the  Pensione 
Suizzera,  are  said  to  be  comfortable 
second-rate  houses.         *     • 

The  Feder,  Italic,  Boyal,  la  Ville, 
Croce  di  Malta,  and*  Quatre  Nations,  all 
overlook  the  harbour,  but  the  view  of  it 
from  the  lower  floors  is  shut  out  by 
the  terrace  on  the  top  of  the  arcade, 
which  has  been  constructed  along  the 
quay  to  separate  the  port  from  the  town. 

Cafes. — La  Concordia,  in  the  Strada 
Nuova,  with  the  best  restaurant  in 
G^noa,  and  a  garden,  and  the  Cafe  Gran 
Cairo,  near  the  Exchange,  are  very 
good ;  Ghilignani  and  the  French  news- 
papers are  to  be  seen  at  the  former. 
Qran  Corso  is  a  new  cafe  splendidly 
fitted  up,  opposite  the  Carlo  Feliee 
theatre.  The  Ctife  d^Italiay  in  the 
SaKta  di  Acqua  Sola,  is  a  magnificently 
decorated  establishment,  with  music; 
only  open  in  siunmer. 

Cotisuls. — Great  Britain,  M.  Y.  Brown, 
Esq.  The  British  consular  office  is  in 
the  Salita  di  Santa  Caterina.  The 
Consul's  visa  is  no  longer  nepessary  to 
a  Secretary  of  State's  Passport. — U.S. 
Consul,  in  the  Piazza  delle  Yigne. 

Steamers. — There  are  regular  com- 
mtmications  by  steam-vessels  between 
Genoa  and  Leghorn,  Civit^  Yecchia, 
Naples,  Messina,  Palermo,  Timis,  Mar- 
seilles, and  the  different  ports  in  the 
island  of  Sardinia.  The  days  and 
hours  of  sailing  are  announced  by 
posted  bills,  and  must  be  ascertained 


108 


lloute  13, — Genoa — Conveyances — Post-ojfflce,        Sect.  11. 


from  these  or  at  the  respective  offices, 
as  they  are  constantly  varying.  The 
voyager  may  generally  reckon  on  the 
sailing  of  a  steamer  belonging  to 
one  or  other  of  the  several  companies 
every  day,  both  for  Leghorn  and 
Marseilles.  The  only  steamers  that 
arrive  and  depart  on  fixed  days  belong 
to  the  Italian  Gh>vemment  Contract 
Companies  ;  those  of  the  Peirano  Com- 
pany, very  fine  and  large  boats,  sail  for 
Leghorn  and  Naples  every  evening  at 
11},  reachmg  Leghorn  at  daybreak  the 
next  morning,  and  Naples  about  3 
o'clock  on  the  second  day.  There  are 
boats  also  belonging  to  Italian  and 
French  Companies,  which  are  tolerably 
regular  in  their]  departures.  Steamers 
of  the  Fellas  Company,  very  good,  leave 
Genoa  for  Sx^ezia  every  morning  at  9 
o'clock  except  Sunday,  performing  the 
voyage  in  5  or  6  hrs. ;  for  Nice  three 
times  a  week,  the  best  being  those  of  the 
Peirano  Company,  carrying  the  mails, 
on  Tues.,  iThurs.,  and  Sat.,  at  9  p.m.; 
for  the  island  of  Sardinia,  landing  at 
Porto  Torres,  on  Tuesdays  at  6  p.m. ; 
and  for  Cagliari  every  Saturday  at  9 
a.m.  (touching  at  Tortoli)  ;  on  Thurs- 
day at  7  p.m.,  touching  at  Leghorn, 
Terranova,  and  Cagliari,  proceeding  to 
Gihmis,  where  they  arrive  on  Monday ; 
on  Monday  at  7  p.m.  for  L^hom 
and  Cagliari,  touching  at  Terranova, 
proceeding  to  Palermo,  which  they 
reach  also  on  Friday  morning;  on 
Friday  at  6  p.m.  for  Leghorn,  Bastia, 
and  Porto  Torres,  arriving  on  Simday 
morning  (some  of  these  boats  call  at 
the  island  of  La  Maddalena)  ;  for  An- 
cona,  calling  at  Leghorn,  Naples,  and 
Messina,  and  several  of  the  Adriatic 
ports,  including  Corfu,  every  Friday  at 
10  p.m. 

Mallepostetf  Diligences,  —  Malle- 
postes  daily  to  Nice,  at  7^  A.M.,  and 
at  9^  P.M.  (courier),  in  26  hours,  from 
the  offices  of  the  French  Messageries 
Imperiales ;  fares  40  and  30  francs,  but 
varyiiig.  The  mode  of  reaching  Milan 
will  be  by.  rly.  through  Alessandria  and 
Pavia,  or  by  another  line,  a  little  longer, 
through  Novara  and  Magenta,  for  wMch 


trains  start  3  times  a  day ;  in  this  way 
the  journey  may  be  performed  in  5  hrs. 
MaUeposte  talung  passengers  to  Spe- 
zia,  where  the  rly.  commences,  daily  at 
3  P.M.  Diligences  in  10^  hrs.,  rares 
30  and  25  fr.,  every  morning  at  7, 
to  Spezia,  and  thence  through  Massa, 
Viareggio,  Lucca,  Pisa,  to  Florence 
and  Leghorn. 

Vetturini. — Plenty  and  good.  They 
may  be  found  in  the  Piazza  deUa  An- 
nunziata,  and  on  inquiry  of  the  mas- 
ters at  the  principal  hotels. 

Itailwa^.  Trains  leave  Genoa  for  Tu- 
rin, Novara,  and  Arona  (fares  to  Turin, 
18  fr.  30  c.  and  12  fr.  80  c. ;  and  to 
Novara,  15  fr.  70  c.  and  11  fr.)  four 
times,  and  for  Alessandria  five  times 
a-day ;  for  Milan  in  5i  and  6}  hrs.,  by 
way  of  Pavia,  20  fr.  and  14  fr.  15  c,  four 
trains  daily.  The  rly.  station  is  near  the 
Doria  palace  in  the  Piazza  dell'Acqua 
Verde.  Omnibuses  from  the  hotels 
meet  each  train ;  fare  with  luggage, 
1  fr. :  there  are  very  good  broughams, 
by  wliich  the  long  delay  in  the  start- 
ing of  the  omnibus  can  be  avoided ; 
tare,  1  fr.  50  c. :  a  Rly.  is  finished 
along  the  coast,  as  far  as  Voltri,  10  m., 
and  thence  towards  Nice  in  active 
progress. 

Fosi  Office  in  the  Piazza  delle  Fon- 
tane  Amoroso.  Letters  arrive  from 
England,  the  N.  of  France,  and  N.  of 
Italy,  at  llj^A.u:.;  from  S.  Italy,  if  ice, 
S.  of  France,  Spain,  &c.,  earlv  in  the 
morning ;  and  are  despatched  for 
England  and  the  N.  of  Europe  at  6 
P.M.;  for  Nice  and  the  S.  of  France 
and  Spain  at  2  p.m.  ;  for  Tuscany,  the 
Boman  States,  and  Naples  at  3  p.m.  ; 
for  Turin  and  Switzerland  at  11  a.m.  and 
5  P.M. ;  besides,  letters  are  received 
and  forwarded  bv  all  the  steamers: 
those,  however,  for  which  bags  are 
always  made  up  are  the  Gk>vt.  contract 
steamers  ev^ry  evening  for  Leghorn  and 
Naples  at  11;  for  the  island  of  Sar- 
dinia by  Porto  Torres  every  Tuesday, 
by  Cagliari  every  Saturday  ;  and  for 
Tunis  on  the  Ist  and  8rd  Wednesday 
of  each  month.    Letters  for  England 


RrviERA.        Houte  13. — Genoa — Port  Reguhiions — Shops. 


109 


coat  60  c,  and  in  sending  may  or 
may  not  be  prepaid.  Letters  for  the 
Italian  Kingdom  generally,  if  not  pre- 
paid in  England,  are  charged  double 
on  delivery  here,  and  vice  versd, 

JSnglish  Church, — ^A  large  room  has 
been  fitted  up  in  the  Via  di  Assarotti, 
where  the  service  is  regularly  performed 
by  the  Eev.  Mr.  Strettell,  of  the  Esta- 
blished Church  J  and  according  to  the 
forms  of  the  Scottish  Presbyterian 
worship,  by  the  Rev.  Jas.  CoUie,  at 
11  A.M.  on  Sundays,  in  the  Waldensian 
church,  in  the  same  street.  An  Hospital 
for  Protestant  English  has  been  opened 
in  the  SaUta  di  S.  Q-irolamo,  No.  75, 
under  the  direction  of  the  British  resi- 
dents. It  is  well  deserviog  of  the  sup- 
port of  our  travelling  fellow  country- 
men. A  book  to  receive  the  names 
of  subscribers  will  bo  found  at  the 
principal  hotels. 

The  English  Protestant  Cemetery 
is  near  the  barracks  of  San  Benigno, 
above  the  slate-quarries. 

BoMkers. — Messrs.  Gibbs  are  parti- 
cuhirly  civil  and  obliging  to  their  Eng- 
lish customers. 

Phf/sicians, — Dr.  A.  Millingen,  an 
English  physician,  59,  Strada  Carlo 
Alberto  San  Tomasso,  3°  Piano  j  Dr. 
Caneva,  a  respectable  Italian  physician, 
Piazza  di  Carignano. 

JEngUsh  Pharmacy^  kept  by  Aurelio, 
in  the  Piazzetta  delle  Yigne,  near  the 
Banchi  and  H6tel  Feder,  . 

Port  regulcUionSy  Passports. — Pas- 
sengers arriving  are  allowed  to  land 
at  all  hours.,  and  are  detained  but  a 
short  time  on  board.  Travellers  pro- 
ceeding by  sea,— if  to  Civita  Vecchia, 
the  Spanish  Consul's  (acting  for  the 
Papal  Government)  visa,  4  ii*.  20  c, 
will  be  necessary.  Passengers  to  Malta 
and  the  Levant  require  no  Consular 
vifla.  The  passport  of  the  British 
Secretary  of  State  does  not  require  any 
▼iaa  at  Ghsnoa  except  that  of  the  Spanish 
Consul,  if  landing  at  Civita  Vecchia  on 
their  way  to  Borne. 


Boatmen.  The  charge  for  embark- 
ing and  landing  passengers  from 
steamers  is  1  fr.  per  person,  in- 
cluding luggage;  the  fee  for  carrying 
it  to  the  hotels  by  the  porters  is  1  fr. 
each  porter,  but  the  traveller  who  has 
several  parcels  will  do  well  to  make  his 
bargain  beforehand ;  the  charge  for  a 
boat  in  the  port,  or  for  an  excursion 
round  the  moleheads  and  lighthouse, 
is  2  fr.  an  hour. 

The  expenses  for  embarking  carriages 
are — for  a  caleche,  15  fr. ;  for  a  chariot 
or  Berline,  20  fr.,  everything  included.' 

Antiquities  and  Articles  of  Vertu. — 
Wannenes,  Contrada  Canetta,  Piazza 
Stampa,  No.  1374,  behind  the  ch.  of 
S.  'Giorgio ;  and  Maggi,  in  the  Strada 
Carlo  Felice,  have  good  collections  of 
curiosities,  antique  articles,  &c. ;  the 
latter  asks  unreasonable  prices,  which 
he  has  been  known  to  abate  50  per  cent. 

Silks,  Velvets,  Sfc. — The  best  shops 
for  velvets  are  those  of  Ferrari,  Via  degli 
Orefici,  No.  352  j  and  of  Riccini,  Piazza 
Campetto,  No.  14.  The  best  qualities 
of  Gt^noese  velvet  cost  from  18  to 
22  fr.  a  metre,  about  13«.  6(2.  to  16ff.  Qd, 
a  yard. 

BooksellerSf  Newsroom,  —  Boouf, 
Strada  Nuovissima,  No.  574,  has  a  good  \ 
assortment  of  Guide-books  and  Maps  i 
there  is  a  circulating  library  and  a 
news-room  in  the  same  establishment, 
where  Galignani  and  the  French  aud 
Italian  newspapers  are  taken  in.  Gran- 
dona,  in  the  Via  di  Carlo  Felice. 

Jewellery,  MUgree   Work.  —  Emilc 
Forti,  98  Rue  des  Orfevresj    Parodi,    | 
Via  degli  Orefici,  and  Brazi,  at  No.  109 
in  the  same  street;  Massa,  in  the  H6tel 
della  Croce  di  Malta. 

Confectionery. — Romanengo,  Via  de- 
gli Orefici,  is  celebrated  for  hjs  candied 
fruits. 

Sedan-chairs  are  common,  and  are 
generally  used  by  ladies  goine  out  in  the 
evening,  although  not  so  much  employed 
as  formerly,  the  new  streets  having  ren- 


no 


Soute  iS. --Genoa — Port — InhahUants. 


Sect.  II. 


dered  the  town  more  easy  of  accesB  to 
carriages. 

Genoa  is  now  in  a  flourishing  state. 
It  is  not  an  economical  residence ;  espe- 
cially with  respect  to  house-rent,  which 
is  high  within  the  city.  Villas  may  be 
hired  in  the  country,  but  the  rents 
are  by  no  means  moderate ;  the  best 
winter  situations  for  invalids  are  about 
Nervi  and  Eecco,  the  decUvities  of 
the  Apennines  along  the  Biviera  di 
Levante  being  much  less  exposed  to  the 
cold  northerly  winds  from  the  moun- 
tains than  in  the  opposite  direction.  It 
is  difficult  to  hire  lodgings  here,  ex- 
cept by  the  year.  Signer  Noli,  who  lives 
near  the  post-office,  is  a  good  house- 
agent.  Provisions  are  abundant.  Bd^f, 
poultry,  and  fish  are  good,  but  of  the 
latter  there  is  only  a  scanty  supply; 
so  that  there  is  some  truth  in  the  old 
vituperative  Tuscan  proverb,  which  says 
of  Q-enoa, — Mare  senza  pescCy — mon- 
tofftie  senza  alherij — uomini  senza  fide, 
— e  donne  senza  vergogna.  The  clunate 
is  fine  and  the  atmosphere  clear,  but 
the  winds  in  winter  are  so  piercing,  that 
great  caution  is  needed  K>r  strangers, 
especially  invahds. 

Genoa  has  a  Porto  Franco,  where 
goods  may  be  warehoused  and  re-ex- 
ported free  of  duty.  It  is  the  chief 
outlet  on  the  Mediterranean  for  the 
manufacturers  of  Switzerland,  Lom- 
bardy,  and  Piedmont ;  and  they  import 
many  foreign  articles,  cotton,  sugar,  &c., 
through  it.  The  harbour,  which  is 
not  of  great  extent,  is  deep,  and  pro- 
tected by  two  moles.  The  width  of 
the  opening  between  the  heads  of  the 
moles  is  595  yards.    The  port  is  ex- 

Eosed  to  the  south-west  wind  (the  Li- 
eccio),  and  to  the  heavy  swell  which 
follows  gales  from  that  quarter.  The 
opening  of  the  Ely.  to  Turin  and  the 
Lago  Maggiore,  and  ultimately  across 
the  Alps  into  Savoy  and  Switzerland, 
is  Hkely  to  make  Genoa  one  of  the  first 
commercial  ports  in  the  Mediterranean, 
and  a  very  dangerous  rival  to  Mar- 
seilles, especially  when  the  judicious 
plans  proposed  by  the  Government  for 


the  construction  of  docks,  and  the  en* 
largement  of  the  accommodation  for 
the  mercantile  marine,  by  the  removal 
of  the  naval  arsenal  to  Spezia,  have 
been  carried  into  effect. 

The  resident  population  of  the  town, 
within  the  walls,  excluding  the  garrison 
and  seamen,  amounted  at  the  end  of 
1861  to  127,966.  Manufactures  of 
silks,  velvets,  damasks,  thrown  silks, 
paper,  soap,  and  the  usual  trades  of  a 
seaport  town,  employ  many  of  the  in- 
habitants. 

The  shops  are  good :  the  articles  of 
manufacture  pecuUar  to  G«noa  are  gold 
and  silver  objects,  especially  filigree 
work,  the  three-piled  velvet,  artificial 
flowers,  and  coral  ornaments.  The  vel- 
vet is  still  an  excellent  article ;  and 
embroidery  on  cambric  and  muslin  is 
carried  to  much  perfection.  Bedsteads 
of  iron  are  well  made,  and,  to  the  great 
comfort  of  the  traveller,  are  coming  very 
much  into  use. 

The  Genoese  are  laborious,  and  a 
robust  and  well-looking  people ;  but 
the  Ligurian  character,  both  physical 
and  mental,  is  very  peculiar ;  and  they 
have  yet  a  strong  feeling  of  nationality. 
Their  dialect  is  almost  unintelligible 
to  a  stranger.  One  national  pecu- 
liarity will,  it  is  to  be  hoped,  long  re- 
main unaltered — ^the  exceedingly  simple, 
graceful  head-dress  of  the  women,  con- 
sisting in  the  higher  classes  of  a  muslin 
scarf  (pezzotto)  pinned  to  the  hair 
and  falling  over  the  arms  and  shoulders, 
allowing  the  beautiful  faces  and  hair 
of  the  wearers  to  be  seen  through  it ; 
this  costume  is  general  amongst  the 
higher  and  middle  classes  during  the 
summer,  but  in  the  colder  season  is 
replaced  by  the  French  bonnet.  The 
lower  orders  wear  a  long  calico  scarf 
printed  in  most  gaudy  colours,  called 
MezzarOy  manufactured  in  large  quan- 
tities about  Genoa. 

To  the  beautiful  road  of  the  Riviera 
through  which  the  traveller  has  passed, 
G^noa  forms  a  very  worthy  termina- 
tion. "  I  have  now  seen,"  says  a 
competent  observer,  "  all  the  most 
beautiful  cities  of  the  South,  and  have 
no  hesitation    in  ranking    this    after 


RtVlEKA.  Houte  13. — Genoa — PM — Lighthouse. 


Ill 


Naples  and  Constantinople.  But  the 
charm  of  the  latter  ceases  on  landing, 
whereas  the  interior  of  Genoa  does  not 
disappoint  our  expectations.  The  streets 
indeed  are  narrow ;  hut,  to  say  nothing 
of  the  obvious  convenience  of  this  in  a 
hot  climate,  it  does  not  of  course  pro- 
duce the  gloom  which  it  does  in  oiir 
northern  cities.  We  too  naturally  at- 
tach the  idea  of  small  mean  houses  to 
narrow  streets,  whereas  these  are  lined 
with  magnificent  palaces.  In  this  re- 
spect, as  well  as  in  the  massive  and 
florid  character  of  these  edifices,  Gknoa 
hears  a  considerable  resemblance  to  La 
TaUetta,  in  Malta ;  but  in  that  island 
architecture  has  something  of  an  oriental 
cast ;  here  it  has  adopted  a  more  festive 
character. " — Mose, 

The  port,  round  which  "  Ghenova  la 
Superba"  extends,  is  terminated  at 
either  extremity  by  two  piers,  the 
Molo  Vecchio  and  the  Molo  Nuovo. 
Near  the  land  end  of  the  western  pier 
stands  the  Fanale,  or  lighthouse,  built 
1547 ;  the  tower  rises  out  of  the  rock, 
to  the  height  of  247  feet  above  its 
base,  or  385  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea.  Several  towers  had  previ- 
ously- stood  here.  The  last,  called  the 
JBrifflia,  or  Bridle^  was  erected  in 
1507  by  Louis  XII.,  for  the  purpose 
of  securing  the  authority  which  he 
had  acquired.  The  hghthouse  should 
be  ascended  for  the  extensive  view 
which  it  commands.  The  arrangement 
of  the  light  is  excellent,  being  on  the 
Dioptric  or  Fresnel  principle  now  so 
generally  in  use  in  Great  Britain.  It 
exhibits  a  revolving,  flashing  light,  and 
in  clear  weather  may  be  se^i  from  a 
distance  of  30  marine  miles;  in  addi- 
tion to  this  principal  light  there  is  a 
smaller  one  on  the  extremity  of  the  E. 
or  old  mole,  and  another,  a  coloured 
one,  on  the  W.  or  new  mole  head. 
Close  to  the  foot  of  the  hghthouse  is  the 
quarantine  estabUshment.  On  the  N. 
side  of  the  harbour  is  the  JDarsena 
(dockyard  and  arsenal),  which  was 
established  in  1276;  the  first  ex- 
penses of  the  works  being  furnished 
by  the  spoils  taken  by  Tomaso  Spi- 


nola,  in  1276.  It  now  exhibits  con* 
siderable  activity,  A  fine  dry  dock  has 
been  added  to  it,  capable  of  admit- 
ing  the  longest  stearm  or  line-of-battle 
ship ;  it  was  constructed  by  Col.  Sauli, 
an  eminent  engineer  oflicer,  at  an  ex- 
pense of  2,725,000  fr.,  and  as  a  work  of 
engineering  would  do  honour  to  any 
country.  Here  also  is  the  Bagne^  or 
prison  for  the  convicts,  who  are  still 
called  galley-slaves,  although  galleys  no 
longer  exist.  They,  are  employed,  in 
gangs,  in  the  pubUc  works  in  diSerent 
parts  of  the  city,  and  are  dressed  in  red 
clothes  and  caps.  The  caps  of  those 
who  have  committed  murders  have  a 
band  of  black,  while  those  whose  caps 
have  a  yellow  one  have  been  condemned 
for  theft  or  other  crimes.  The  great 
majority  of  the  first  come  from  the 
island  of  Sardinia.  It  is  the  custom,  if 
they  behave  well,  to  pardon  them  at  the 
expiration  of  half  their  sentence. 

The  Nawf  of  the  kingdom  of  Italy  is 
on  the  English  model,  and  is  as  superior " 
in  efficiency  to  that  of  any  other  Power, 
except  France,  on  the  shores  of  the  Me- 
diterranean, as  the  Genoese  sailors  are 
to  all  other  Itahans.  Young  men  of 
family  are  much  encouraged  to  enter 
the  service.  ' 

The  Porto  Franco^  which  is  on  the 
E.  side  of  the  harbour,  near  the  end 
of  the  Molo  Vecchio,  is  a  collection  of 
bonded  warehouses,  surrounded  by  high 
walls,  and  with  gates  towards  the  sea 
and  the  city  :  the  most  recent  portions 
were  built  in  1642.  It  contains  355 
warehouses,  which  are  filled  with  goods. 
According  to  ancient  regulations,  en- 
trance is  forbidden  (except  by  special 
permission)  to  the  military,  the  priest- 
hood, and  womankind ;  all  these  being, 
as  it  would  seem,  equally  Kable  to  sus- 
picion. The  Porto  Franco  is  under 
the  management  of  the  Chamber  of 
Commerce.  The  Facchini,  or  porters 
employed  in  the  Porto  Franco,  form  a 
privileged  corporation.  There  are  two 
classes,  the  Facchini  di  Confidenzay  who 
are  employed  in  the  interior  of  the 
warehouses,  and  the  Facchini  di  Cava- 


112  Eoute  13. — Genoa — Porto  Franco — Fortifications,      Sect.  II. 


vana,  who  carry  out  tlie  goods.  The 
latter  were  formerly  Berffomaschif  and 
the  calling  hereditary  in  their  families. 
They  enjoyed  an  exclusiye  privilege 
since  1340.  They  were  recruited,  not 
from  Bergamo  itself,  but  from  ceartain 
towns  in  the  Val  Brembana,  to  the  N. 
of  it.  They  sold  their  privileges  to  their 
fellow-countrymen  at  high  prices.  Of 
late  years  this  system  has  fallen  into 
disuse,  and  the  port-ers  are  now  re- 
cruited £rom  the  uenoese. 

Close  to  the  Porto  Franco  is  the 
Dogana  (custom-house),  and  from  this 
to  the  Darsena,  along  the  quay  of 
the  port,  extends  the  portico,  con- 
structed in  1839 ;  above  is  a  terrace  on 
which  is  an  agreeable  walk  affording  a 
fuU  view  of  the  harbour.  The  branch 
Bly.  from  the  principal  station  to  the 
Portofranco  runs  along  the  line  of  these 
arcades. 

The  city  has  been  repeatedly  in- 
creased in  size,  and  its  walls  as  often 
enlarged.  It  is  said  that  some  traces 
of  the  Roman  walls  are  discernible. 
The  first  modem  fortifications  were 
erected  in  935,  extending  from  the 
Fort  of  S.  Giorgio  above  the  modem 
Bly.  station  to  San  Andrea.  In  1155 
the  Genoese  raised  another  circuit, 
for  the  purpose  of  resisting  the  threat- 
ened attacks  of  Frederick  Barbarossa. 
Some  of  the  gates  are  yet  standing. 
Such  is  the  Porta  Vacca^  or  CovogaUy 
near  the  Darsena,  a  fine  and  lofty  arch, 
between  two  towers. 

Another  circuit  was  begun  in  1327. 
In  this  many  of  the  previous  suburbs 
were  included.  It  is  in  the  semi- 
modern  style  of  fortification,  but  very 
strong.  The  ramparts  afford  very 
agreeable  promenades,  and  are  con- 
nected on  the  E.  with  a  pubhc  garden, 
called  the  Acqua  Sola,  which  affords 
a  delightful  walk.  The  last  portions 
of  this  second  line  of  fortifications,  the 
Casteletto,  which  only  served  to  over- 
awe the  town,  or  was  considered  in 
that  light  by  the  popular  party  in  1849, 
has  been  destroyed,  and  the  site  covered 
with  tall  dwelling-houses ;  as  well  as  the 
Porta  di  San  Giorgio,  above  the  Piaaza 


dell*  Acqua  Yerde,  to  make  room  for 
the  Bly.  station. 

The  third  circuit,  at  a  considerable 
distance  from  the  second,  encircles  all 
the  heights  that  immediately  command 
the  town  and  harbour :  planned  in 
1627,  it  was  begun  in  1630,  and  com- 
pleted in  1632,  and  forms  an  immense 
triangle,  having  the  harbour  for  its 
base,  and  the  great  fort  of  the  Sperone 
for  its  apex :  the  circuit  occupies  an 
extent  of  several  miles,  and  is  strength- 
ened at  different  points  by  stronger 
works  in  the  form  of  forts,  which  com- 
mand the  approaches  to  the  city  and 
the  valleys  oi  the  Bisagno  and  Polce- 
vera ;  the  principal  of  these  forts  are 
the  redoubts  of  La  Lantema  and  S. 
Benigno  on  the  W.,  commanding  the 
entrances  on  the  side  of  Turin  and 
Nice,  the  Tenagha,  the  valley  of  the 
Polcevera  higher  up ;  the  forts  of  il  Be- 
goto  and  la  SpecoUiy  near  the  summit 
of  the  triangle,  which  are  of  recent  con- 
struction ',  and  the  great  citadel  of  il 
Sperone,  which,  from  a  height  of  1650 
ft.,  completely  commands  the  town  and 
harbour.  In  addition  to  these  forts 
on  the  line  of  the  wall  which  sur- 
rounds G«noa,  an  extensive  system  of 
detached  redoubts  has  been  added  on 
every  peak  from  which  the  city  or  its 
defences  can  possibly  be  threatened; 
to  the  K.  are  the  forts  of  the  XHa- 
mawte  i  FrateUi  and  jPuino,  which 
form  such  picturesque  objects  as'  seen 
by  the  traveller  descending  the  Apen- 
nines from  the  Pass  of  i  Giove,  and 
on  the  E.  of  the  valley  of  the  Bisagno 
Forts  Bichelieu  and  Tecla — ^in  fact, 
the  mihtary  works  round  G«noa 
constitute  at  present  the  largest  town 
fortifications  in  Europe,  those  of  Paris 
excepted;  since  1815  they  haye  been 
greatly  strengthened ;  and  should  the 
city  again  sustain  a  siege,  it  will  be  on 
these  lines  its  principal  defence  must 
depend ;  but  so  large  must  be  the  at* 
tacking  force,  that,  with  the  approaches 
by  sea  open,  G^noa  may  be  now  con- 
sidered impregnable,  a  rigorous  and 
long-continued  blockade  by  sea'and  land 
being  alone  capable  of  reducing  it. 

The  fortifications  in  the  first  instaaoe 


RiriERA.  Route  13. — Genoa — Fortifications — Palaces, 


113 


were  erected  to  protect  the  city  against 
the  present  dynasty,  when  the  G^o- 
Sardinian  army,  nnder  Carlo  Emanuele 
Duke  of  Savoy,  threatened  the  very 
existence  of  the  Kepublic;  and  they 
were,  in  great  measure,  raised  by  vo- 
luntary contributions  and  voluntary 
labour.  Upvrards  of  10,000  of  the  in- 
habitants worked  upon  them,  without 
receiving  either  provisions  or  pay.  All 
the  citizens  contributed  individually, 
besides  the  donations  made  by  the 
different  trades,  public  bodies,  and  cor^ 
porations.  One  Carmelite  fiiar  raised 
100,000  lire  by  collections  after  his 
sermons.  Within  these  walla  Massena 
sustained  the  famous  siege  of  1800. 
The  city  waa  invested  on  the  land-side 
by  the  Austrian  troops,  the  British  fleet, 
under  Lord  Keith,  blockading  the  port. 
Massena  was  at  length  starved  out,  and 
he  evacuated  the  city  on  the  4th  of 
June  1800,  after  a  blockade  of  60  days, 
during  which  the  garrison,  and  still 
more  the  inhabitants,  suffered  the 
greatest  misery  from  famine.  Of  the 
7000  troops  under  M^sena,  only  2000 
were  fit  for  service  when  they  surren- 
dered. The  number  of  the  inhabitants 
who  died  of  the  famine,  or  of  disease 
produced  by  it,  exceeded  15,000.  The 
present  garrison  amounts  to  7000 
men,  but  treble  that  number  would 
be  neoessaiy  to  man  its  works,  in  the 
event  of  a  siege  by  any  great  conti- 
nental power. 

An  interesting  excursion  maybe  made 
by  the  pedestrian  round  the  fortifica- 
tions, following  the  road  on  the  inner 
side,  from  the  Porta  della  Lantema  to 
the  Porta  delle  Chiappe,  during  which 
he  vrill  enjoy  some  of  the  finest  pros- 
pects over  the  town  and  harbour ; 
emerging  from  the  latter  gate,  a  walk 
of  little  more  than  an  hour  will  enable 
him  to  reach  by  a  good  road  the  Dia- 
mante and  the  fort  of  il  Fratello  Mag- 
giore,  from  both  of  which  the  views 
over  the  encircling  valleys  of  the  Polce- 
vera  and  Bisagno  are  splendid,  with 
that  of  the  whole  Une  of  sea-coast,  from 
the  rugged  promontory  of  Portofino 
on  the  E.  to  the  Capo  delle  Melle  on 
the  W.,  lined  by  the  towns  of  Sestn, 


Yoltri,  Savona,  &c.,  and  the  high 
mountains  of  Corsica  on  the  extreme 
southern  horizon.  No  one  can  enter 
the  forts  without  an  order  from  the 
military  authorities. 

Ghenoa  is,  like  Bath,  very  up  and 
down.  Many  parts  of  the  city  are 
inaccessible  to  wheel-carriages ;  nor 
are  the  smaller  viooli  convenient  for 
foot-passengers.  Through  these  the 
trains  of  mules,  with  their  bells  and 
trappings,  add  to  the  busy  throng.^ 
In  the  older  parts  of  the  town  the 
houses  have  an  appearance  of  antique 
solidity,  whilst  those  in  the  more  mo- 
dem streets,  the  Strada  Nuova,  the  f 
Strada  Nuovissima,  the  Strada  Balbi, 
the  Strada  Carlo  Felice,  and  the  Strada  I 
Carlo  Alberto,  are  all  distinguished  for 
their  magnitude ;  and  the  first,  in  the 
Strada  Nttova,  for  their  unparalleled 
splendour. 

"  Genoa  may  justly  be  proud  of  her 
palaces :  if  you  walk  along  the  three 
continuous  streets  of  Balbi,  Nuovis- 
sima,  and  Nuova,  looking  into  the 
courts  and  staircases  on  each  hand  as 
you  proceed,  you  may  indeed  think 
yourself  in  a  city  of  kings.  The  usual 
disposition  exhibits  a  large  haU  sup- 
ported partly  on  columns  leading  to  a 
court  surrounded  by  arcades,  the  arches 
of  which  likewise  rest  upon  columns. 
Sometimes,  on  one  side  of  the  street, 
these  courts  are  on  a  level  with  the  ex- 
ternal pavement;  while  on  the  other 
the  rapid  rise  of  the  ground  is  com- 
pensated by  a  flight  of  marble  steps. 
Beyond  this  court  is  the  great  staircase 
rising  on  each  hand,  and  frirther  still  is 
frequently  a  small  garden,  shaded  with 
oranges ;  so  far  the  composition  is  ad- 
mirable. It  is  invariably  open  to  public 
view ;  and  the  long  perspective  of  halls, 
courts,  columns,  arches,  and  flights  of 
steps,  produces  a  most  magnificent 
effect;  and  this  is  still  further  en- 
hanced wlien  the  splendour  of  the 
marble  is  contrasted  with  the  dark 
shades  of  the  orange-groves.  But  the 
chief  merit  of  the  buildings  lies  in 
these  parts.  There  are  internally  fine 
apartments,  but  by  no  means  of  mag- 
nificence coiresponding  to  that  of  the 


114 


Bottte  13.— Genoa — Palazzo  Brignde  Bosso.  Sect.  !!• 


entrance.  Tlie  other  streets  of  Gknoa 
are  mostly  narrow  and  dark  :  but  even 
here  some  noble  edifices  are  found." — 
Woods. 

The  objects  most  worthy  of  the  at- 
tention of  the  passing  traveller  who 
has  but  little  time  to  devote  to  G-enoa 
are — the  Strade  Nuova,  Nuovissima, 
Balbi,  and  Carlo  Felice;  the  Piazza  delle 
Foi^tane  Amorose;  theBrignole,  Serra, 
Balbi,  Beale,  and  del  Principe  Palaces 
and  G-alleries;  the  Cathedral  and  the 
Strada  degU  Orefici;  the  churches  of 
S.  Ambrogio,  Carignano,  and  San  Mat- 
teo.  Most  of  these  may  be  visited  in 
the  course  of  one  day,  indeed  between 
the  arrival  of  the  steamer  in  the  morn- 
ing and  its  departure  in  the  afternoon. 

The  Strada  Nmova  was  built  in  1552, 
on  ground  purchased  by  the  republic, 
This  street,  the  most  splendid  in  this 
City  op  Palaces,  contains  on  entering 
from  the  "W.  on  the  1.  or  N.  side  the 
Brignole,  Doria  TursijSpinola,  Lercaro- 
Imperiale,  and  Cambiaso  palaces,  and 
on  the  rt.  Durazzo,  Brignole  Sale  or 
Bosso,  Serra,  Adomo,  Doria  (Giorgio), 
Cattaneo,  and  Gambara.  Of  these,  all 
except  two  are  by  Alessio. 

Just  at  the  entrance  of  the  Strada 
Nuova,  but  in  the  Strada  Nuovis- 
sima,  is  the  Palazzo  Brignole  (now 
Durazzo),  the  vestibule  of  which  is 
decorated  with  modem  arabesques  and 
frescoes :  the  portal  is  supported  by  two 
gigantic  Terms.  In  this  palace  is  pre- 
served one  of  the  most  extensive  col- 
lections of  engravings  in  Italy,  said  to 
exceed  50,000  in  number. 

Palazzo  Brignole  SalCy  also  called  the 
Palazzo  RossOf  from  the  outside  being 
painted  red,  is  in  the  Strada  Nuova,  No. 
53  :  its  front  is  very  extensive,  and,  were 
it  not  for  its  colour,  the  architecture 
would  appear  to  advantage.  The  apart- 
ments on  the  second  floor  contain  the 
most  extensive  collection  of  pictures  in 
Genoa.  We  shall  notice  the  most  re- 
markable, following  the  order  in  which 
the  visitor  is  generally  shown  over  the 
rooms.  Very  foil  hand-catalogues  are  to 
be  found  in  each,  as  is  generally  the 


case  in  all  the  Genoese  palaces  contain- 
ing collections  of  pictures,  and  which 
are  most  Hberally  thrown  open  to  the 
stranger  from  11  a.m.  imtU  4  p.m. — 
First  Boom.  ScUa  delle  Arti  Liberal*. 
A  kind  of  ante-room  containing  copies 
of  portraits  of  Doges  of  the  Brignole 
family;  the  frescoes  on  the  roof  by 
Carione. — II.  Salone  delta  Vita  delt 
Uomo.  Paolo  Veronese,  a  portrait  of 
a  Woman  holding  a  fan ;  A.  Sacchiy 
Dsedalus  and  Icarus;  Ghiercino,  the 
Almighty  looking  on  a  Globe;  Ajnn. 
Caracci,  Christ  bearing  the  Cross; 
Carlo  Dolce,  Christ  sweating  Blood ; 
Vandyke,  a  beautiful  full-length  por- 
trait of  Jeronima  Brignole  Sale  and  her 
Daughter,  and  another  by  the  same 
painter  of  a  handsome  young  Man  in. 
a  Spanish  costume :  both  are  beautiful 
specimens  of  Vandyke's  finest  style. — 
III.  Sala  deW  Invemo.  Piola,  a  Holy 
Family ;  Strozzi  or  II  Cappuccino,  a  Ma- 
donna and  Child ;  Carlo  Marraita,  the 
Flight  into  Egypt ;  F.  Barroccio,  the 
Virgin  and  St.  Catherine ;  JDomenichino, 
San  Rocco  in  a  ^cene  of  the  Plague ; 
P.  Veronese,  Judith  holding  the  Head 
of  Holofemes  just  cut  off — a  disagree- 
able picture,  without  expression  on  .the 
face  of  the  murderess;  Piola,  Sant' 
Orsola;  Procacciniy  the  Virgin,  Child, 
St.  John,  Joseph,  and  Elizabeth :  a  good 
picture  ;  Spo^noletto,  a  Philosopher  j 
L.  da  Vinci,  more  probably  by  Luini, 
St.  John  the  Baptist ;  Rubens,  a  good 
male  portrait,  very  like  Vandyke  in 
style;  Vandyke,  the  Tribute  Money. 
— IV.  Sala  d^  Autunno.  Gfiorgione,9,n 
excellent  portrait  of  Doctor  Franciscus 
Philetus  (Fileto) ;  Ghiido,  half-figure 
of  S.  Marco;  Tintoretto,  male  por- 
trait ;  Bonifazio  Veneziano,  the  Adora- 
tion of  the  Magi,  a  fine  specimen  of 
the  master — it  has  by  some  been 
attributed  to  Palma  Vecchio ;  GmdOy 
2  heads  of  Our  Saviour  and  the 
Virgin;  Gtjeecino,  Madonna,  Infant 
Christ,  St.  John  the  Baptist  and  Evan- 
gelist, and  St.  Bartholomew— a  fine  pic- 
ture of  Guercino's  richest  colouring  ; 
Andrea  del  Sarto,  Virgin  and  Child,  a 
replica,  similar  to  that  in  Lord  West- 
minster's gallery ;  Lttca  Cambiaso^  a 


RiVierA.  Soute  19. — Genoa — Palazzo  Mnnieipale. 


115 


dead  Christ :  II  Cappuccino  (B.  Strozzi), 
Christ  on  the  Cross,  with  St.  Francis 
in  Adoration  before  it.     The  frescoes 
in  this  saloon  are  chiefly  by  Fiola. — 
V.  Sola  di  Estate,     M,  A.  Caravaggio^ 
the  Resurrection  of  Lazarus ;    Ghtido, 
St.  Sebastian :  JJanfranco,  Christ  bearing 
the  Cross ;  JJttca  Giordano,  Olinda  and 
Sophronia,  the  same  subject  as  that  of 
the  picture  at  the  Palazzo  Keale  (p.ll6), 
but  inferior  to  the  latter  j   Ghuercino  (?) , 
the  Suicide  of  Cato ;    P.  Veronese,  a 
spirited  sketch  for  his  large  picture  of 
the  Adoration  of  the  Shepherds ;  iMca 
di  Olanda,  portrait  of  a  middle-aged 
Man  -with  a  long  beard ;  Gueecino, 
Christ  expelling  the  Merchants  from  the 
Temple — a  fine  composition,  two  of  the 
female  figures  in  the  foreground  on  the 
right  particularly ;  B.  Strozzi,  a  Holy 
Family  with    St.  Thomas;     JJuca    di 
Olanda    (or   L.    da  Leida,    as  he  is 
generally  called  by  the  ItaUans),   St. 
Jerome. — ^VI.   8ala  della  Primavera. 
Vajtdyke,  a  fine  portrait  of  a  Prince 
of  Orange ;  id.,  a  portrait  of  Antonio 
Brignole   Sale   on   horseback;    id.,    a 
fall-length  portrait    of  the   Marchesa 
Paplina    Adomo-Brignole  —  the    two 
latter  are    amongst  the  finest  works 
of  Vandyke  at  G«noa,  where  so  many 
of  his  best  portraits  exist;    Scipione 
&aetani,  portrait  of  a  Cardinal ;  Fin- 
toretto,  good  portrait   of  a  Warrior; 
Moretto    da  Brescia,    portrait    of   a 
Botanist;  2\Yia»,  portrait  of  Philip  II. ; 
Vandyke,  Our  Saviour  with  the  Cross  ; 
Paris  Bordone,  portraits  of  a  Venetian 
Lady  and  Gentleman ;  Francia,  a  small 
male  portrait ;   Qiov.  Bellini,  id.     The 
four  Halls    of   the   Seasons    through 
which  we  have  passed  are  decorated 
with  frescoes  allusive   to  the    names 
they  bear,  by  Piola,  de  Ferrari,  Haffner, 
Canzio,   &c.  —  VIII.  Salone  or  Sola 
Ghr<iinde,  a  magnificent  square  hall,  the 
roof  decorated  with  the  armorial  bear- 
ings of  the  Brignoles  and  the  aristo- 
cratic families  of  G^noa  with  whom 
they  have  formed  alliances,  and  with 
frescoes  by  de  Ferrari  and  Canzio.   Over 
the  doors  are  5  pictures  representing 
events  in  the  life  of  Abraham  and  Lot, 
by  the  priest  Quidohono  da  Savona^  and 


a  large  composition  by  Domenico  Biolay 
called  the  Chariot  of  the  Sim.  On  one 
of  the  consoles  stands  a  large  model  in 
white  marble  and  bronze  of  a  monu- 
ment to  Columbus,  executed  at  the  ex- 
pense of  the  Marquis  Brignole. 

Palazzo  Doria  Tursi,  in  the  Strada 
Nuova,    now  occupied  by  the  Muni- 
cipality of  Genoa;  it  formerly  belonged 
to  the  Queen  Dowager  of  Sardinia,  who 
bequeathed  it  to  the  Jesuits,  by  whom 
it  was  occupied  untQ  their  expulsion. 
The  fagade  is  grand,   and  is   flauked 
by  terraces  with  open  arcades,  upon 
which  rest    gardens.      The   architect 
was    Rocca    Lurago,   of    Como,  who 
built    it  for    Nicolo    Grimaldi,  from 
whom  it  passed  to  one  of  the  Doria 
family,  created  Duke  of  Tursi.    In  the 
lower  cortile  are  some  very  mediocre 
frescoes  relative  to  the  visit  to  Genoa 
of   Don    John    of   Austria,   removed 
from  the  Ducal  Palace.     On  the  first 
floor  in   the   ante-room  of  the   hall, 
where  the  town  council  assembles,  is 
a  marble  pedestal,   on  which    stands 
a  bust  of  Columbus,  and  in  a  recess 
under  it  a  box  containing  some  inter- 
esting MSS.  of  that  great  navigator; 
especially  3  autograph  letters,  one  to 
the  Bank  of  St.  George  transmitting  his 
will  (1502),  by  which  he  bequeathed 
one-tenth  of  all  he  possessed  to  that 
estabUshment   and    an    authenticated 
copy  of  all  the  documents  connected 
with  the  honours  conferred  upon  him 
by    the  Kings    of   Spain;  a    second 
letter  on  the  same  subject;  and  the 
third  to  Oderigo,  the  Genoese  agent  in 
Spain,  complaining  that  the  bank  had 
never  acknowledged  the  receipt  of  the 
wiQ,    It  may  not  be  out  of  place  to 
state  that  no  trace  of  the  will  has  been 
discovered  amongst  the  records  of  the 
Banco  di  S.  Giorgio,   and   that    the 
only  record  of  the  last  wishes  of  the 
discoverer  of  the  new  world  is  a  copy 
in   the   archives    of   his   Spanish  de- 
scendant,  the  Duke  di  Veraguas,   at 
Madrid.     These  precious   MSS.  were 
discovered  among   the  papers  of  the 
Cambiaso  family  some  years  since,  bar- 
ing been  fraudulently  obtained  from 


116 


Houie  13. — Genoa — Palaces — Pictures, 


Sect.  n. 


the  archives  of  S.  G-iorgio,  a  too  com- 
mon practice  of  late  years  in  Italy ;  they 
are  now  preserved  under  triple  lock 
and  key.  In  another  room  of  the  Mu- 
nicipality are  a  few  good  Dutch  pic- 
tures, formerly  in  the  ducal  palace ; 
one  by  Albert  Durer,  another  by  Ma- 
buse,  and  a  third  probably  by  Van 
JSvck ;  Paganini's  violin ;  and  a  piece 
of  embroidery  representing  the  mar- 
tyrdom of  St.  Lawrence,  said  to  date 
from  A.D.  1001,  a  gift  of  the  Q-reek 
Emperor  Paheologus:  as  they  are  in 
the  apartments  of  the  Mayor  (Sindaco), 
they  can  only  be  seen  when  his  worship 
has  left  his  office. 

Here  is  kept  one  of  the  most  re- 
markable monuments  of  the  history 
of  Q-enoa  —  a  bronze  table,  contain- 
ing the  award  made  A.  u.  o.  633,  by 
Quintus  Marcus  Minutius  and  Q.  F. 
Bufus,  between  the  Oenuenses  and  the 
Vtturu^  supposed  to  be  the  inhabit- 
ants of  Langasco  and  Yoltaggio,  in  the 
upper  valley  of  the  Polcevera,  who  had 
been  disputing  about  the  extent  of  their 
respective  territories,  and  had  peti- 
tioned the  Senate  in  an  appeal  from 
the  jurisdiction  of  the  local  Genoese 
authorities.  This  boimdary  question 
was  most  carefully  investigated :  the 
landmarks  are  set  out  with  gi*eat  minute- 
ness, and  clauses  are  inserted  respect- 
ing rights  of  common  and  commuta- 
tion rents,  with  as  much  accuracy  as 
we  should  now  find  in  an  Inclosure 
Bill.  The  table  was  discovered  in  1506 
by  a  peasant  when  digging  his  land  at 
Isosecco,  near  Pedemonte,  6  m.  from 
Ghnoa.  He  brought  it  to  Q-enoa  for 
the  purpose  of  selling  it  as  old  metal ; 
but  the  matter  coming  to  the  know- 
ledge of  the  senate,  they  purchased  it 
for  the  commonwealth. 

Palazzo  Serra,  Strada  Nuova,  No. 
49,  by  Alessio.  The  entrance,  which  is 
modernised,  is  richly  decorated ;  and 
Semini  and  Galeotti,  Grenoese  artists, 
painted  the  ceilings,  &c.,  of  the  prin- 
cipal rooms.  The  saloon  is  particu- 
larly rich :  the  gilding,  said  to  have 
cost  a  million  of  francs,  the  white 
marble  bas-reliefs,  the  caryatides,  the 


mirrors,  the  mosaio  pavement,  procured 
for  this  palace  its  name  of  the  Palazzo 
del  Sole.  The  entresol  has  been  recently 
fitted  up  by  a  member  of  the  family, 
in  a  style  of  richness  and  magnificence 
seldom  to  be  met  with,  even  in  the 
dwellings  of  royalty. 

Palazzo  Adomo  contains  some  good 
frescoes  by  Taveroni,  of  subjects  from 
Genoese  history. 

Palazzo  SpinUla  (Ferdinando),  for- 
merly Palazzo  Grimaldi,  Strada  Kuova, 
No.  44,  opposite  the  last,  a  large  and 
fine  building,  with  good  pictures.  The 
Hall. — Frescoes  by  Semino;  a  man 
on  horseback  by  Vandyke.  Fibst 
Saloon. — Two  fine  portraits  by  Andrea 
del  Sarto;  a  remarkable  portrait  of  a 
Philosopher  in  a  black  dress,  by  Sehas- 
tiano  del  Piombo ;  a  finely  preserved 
and  beautifully  painted  circular  pic- 
ture of  the  Virgin  and  Child,  by  Becca- 
Jiumi  ;  a  Venus,  by  Titian ;  and  a  fine 
head,  by  Vandyke.  Thibd  Saloon. — 
A  Crucifixion  by  Vandyke ;  a  Holy 
Family,  Qian,  Bellini ;  and  the  same 
subject,  with  two  Saints,  by  Xuini, 

Palazzo  Lercaro  Imperiale,  Strada 
Nuova.  A  striking  fa9ade,  opening 
into  a  handsome  cortile.  The  first 
floor  is  now  occupied  by  the  club  or 
Casino,  where  strangers  remaining  at 
Genoa  for  some  time  can  easily  obtain 
admittance. 

The  Palazzo  Spinota  {Qiov,  Batt.)  ; 
containing  the  following  pictures: — 
Carlone,  -SJneas  and- the  Cumsean  Sibyl; 
Vandyke,  Madonna  and  Child;  Le 
SueWj  Joseph  before  Pharaoh ;  Ouido, 
St.  Sebastian ;  Guercino,  Madonna  and 
Child  sleeping;  Domenichino,  the  Fa- 
mily of  Tobias;  Boryoynone,  Holy 
Family,  and  Abraham's  Sacrifice  ;  Bas' 
sano,  the  Marriage  of  Cana ;  Parm^y- 
yianino,  the  Adoration  of  the  Elngs  j 
GhtidOf  the  Flight  into  Egypt ;  Ann. 
Caracciy  a  Woman  and  Child,  and  a 
Woman  with  two  Men;  Luca  Gior- 
danOj  the  Woman  of  Samaria. 


Riviera. 


BoiUe  lZ.~Oenoa — PcHaoes — Pictares. 


117 


Palazzo  Daria  (Gioreio),  Strada 
Nuova,  contains  a  fine  fuU-length  poiv 
trait  of  a  Lady  of  this  noble  house,  by 
Vandyke;  and  a  remarkably  fine  one  of 
a  Duchess  of  Sforza  Cesarini,  by  Leo- 
nardo da  Vinci, 

The   Strada  Nuova  opens  into  an 

irregular  open  space,  called  the  IHazza 

I   deUe  Fontane  Amorosey  containing  some 

^    fine  buildings,  of  which  the  principal 

are  the 

Palazzo  Negroni,  No.  24,  a  wide- 
spreading  and  noble  front ;  there  are 
here  some  good  pictures — ^Tarquin  and 
Lucretia^  by  Ouercinoi  and  some  in- 
teresting frescoes,  relating  to  the  deeds 
of  the  Negroni  family,  by  Parodi. 
Next  to  it  is  the  P.  Pallavicini  with  its 
painted  facade ;  and  close  to  the  latter, 
forming  the  entrance  to  the  Strada 
Nuova,  the  handsome  P.  Cambiaso  with 
its  marble  front. 

Palazzo  CattaneOf  near  the  ch.  of  San 
G-iorgio,  has  some  portraits  by  Van- 
dyke,  but  in  a  miserably  neglected  state. 

Palazzo  Spinola  dei  Marmi,  Piazza 
delle  Fontane  Amorose,  an  edifice 
of  the  15th  century,  built  of  alternate 
courses  of  white  and  black  marble; 
in  front  are  four  niches  containing  full- 
length  statues  of  members  of  the  utmily 
with  inscriptions  in  Gotliic  characters 
beneath.  This  palace  is  said  to  have 
been  built  from  the  materials  of  that 
of  the  Fieschi,  near  Santa  Maria  in  Via 
Lata,  puUed  down  by  order  of  the 
Senate  after  their  Conspiracy  in  1336. 
It  contains  some  of  the  earHest  frescoes 
of  CambiasOi  in  particular  the  Combat 
of  the  Titans,  which  he  executed  at 
eighteen  years  of  age. 

The  Strada  Carlo  Felice,  which  con- 
nects the  Piazza  delle  Fontane  Amorose 
with  the  Piazza  Carlo  Felice,  is  of  re- 
cent date  and  has  less  architectural 
splendour  than  the  Strada  Nuova :  it 
is  broad  and  regular,  and  is  cliiefly  oc- 
cupied by  shops. 


Palazzo  Pcdlamoinif  Strada  Carlo 
Felice,  No.  12,  open  from  10  to  3. 
The  name  of  PaUavicini,  one  of  the 
most  ancient  in  Gbnoa,  has  by  some 
been  derived  from  Pelavicino,  or  "  strip 
my  neighbour,"  but  without  any  foun- 
dation, the  appellation  being  derived^ 
from  the  district  of  the  same  name,  the 
Stato  PallavicinOf  situated  near  the 
Po,  between  Parma  and  Cremona  (see 
p.  438).  A  member  of  this  family 
acted  in  England  in  conformity  to  the 
supposed  signification  of  his  patro- 
nyme.    This  was 


tt 


Sir  Horatio  Palvasene, 


Who  robb'd  the  Pope  to  pay  the  Queen." 

He  was  receiver  and  banker  of  the 
court  of  Eome  during  the  reign  of 
Mary;  and  having  a  good  balance  in 
his  hands  at  the  accession  of  Elizabeth, 
could  not  then  reconcile  himself  to  the 
iniquity  of  letting  so  much  money  go 
out  of  the  country  to  be  employed 
against  his  new  sovereign.  He  built 
Babraham  in  Cambridgeshire,  and  be- 
came afterwards  aUied  by  niarriage  with 
the  Cromwells.  The  palace  .contains 
a  collection  of  pictures,  many  of  which 
are  of  merit.  There  are  hand-catalogues 
in  the  different  rooms. — I.  Saxa  or 
G-ALLEBY.  ChuercinOy  an  Ecco  Homo ; 
F.  Svrani,  Santa  Csecilia ;  Breugliel,  a 
Flower  Qttrden;  Albani,  a  Magdalen, 
and  Our  Saviour. — II.  Sala  deliiA 
Cammtna.  a.  del  Sarto,  Adoration  of 
the  Magi ;  J5.  Strozzi  or  II  Cappuccino^ 
Sta.  Caterina;  Luca  Giordano,  a  large 
picture  of  a  Holy  Family ;  Luca  di 
Olcmda,  the  Crucifixion,  with  the  fa- 
mily of  the  Donatario  kneeling  below. 
— III.  Sala  del  Caedinale,  from  a 
portrait  of  a  Cardinal  of  the  Pallavicini 
family  over  the  chimney;  Luca  di 
Olanda,  Madonna  and  Child,  with  the 
Donatarii  in  the  lateral  compartments  ; 
Franceschini,  the  Death  of  Adonis; 
Luca  di  Olanda,  a  dead  Christ; 
Albani  (?),  Diana  in  the  Bath :  in  the 
passage  leading  from  this  to  the  next 
room  is  a  good  picture  of  Madonna 
and  Saints,  attributed  to  A.  del  Sarto. 
— IV.  Salonb  di  Levantb.  JUibens^ 
the  Angel  liberating  St.   Peter;   So- 


118 


EmUe  13. — Genoa — Pdaces — Pictures. 


Sect.  n. 


maneUi^  a  very  pretty  Magdalene; 
Schidone,  a  good  Madonna  and  Child ; 
II  CappuccinOf  an  Adolorata  ;  Frances- 
ehinij  the  Afioension  of  St.  Mary  Mag- 
dalen; OuidOf  Christ  on  the  Cross, 
with  St.  Francis;  Raphael  (?),  the 
Madonna  delta  Colonna^  so  called 
from  the  column  introduced  in  the 
picture — somewhat  injured  by  resto- 
rations, still  it  is  a  lovely  picture  :  the 
central  portion,  containing  the  Virgin 
and  Cliild,  appears  to  form  a  separate 
piece  from  the  rest,  the  greater  part  of 
the  column  being  on  what  appears  a 
part  subsequently  added.  It  is  very 
doubtful  that  Raphael  painted  this  pic- 
ture. Guercino,  St.  Jerome;  A.  Ca- 
raccif  St.  John  the  Baptist ;  Bassano, 
the  Journeying  of  cfacob  and  his 
family;  M.  A,  CaravoffffiOf- a.n  Ecce 
Homo.  — V.  Salone  del  Diyano. 
!Five  circular  family  portraits,  four 
of  females,  by  H.  Bigaud. — VI.  Sa- 
lone Di  CoNYEBSAZiOKE.  CcutigUone^ 
a  large  picture  of  Fan  and  Animals. 
Vandyke,  the  beautiful  picture  known 
by  the  name  of  Coriolanus  and  Ve- 
turia,  generally  considered  to  repre- 
sent James  I.  of  England,  his  wife 
and  children.  The  costumes  are  quite 
Hispano  -  Dutch  of  the  I7tli  cent. ; 
the  portraits  of  the  females  lovely. 
Chiercino,  octagonal  picture  of  Music ; 
Jjuca  Camhiaso,  Venus  and  Cupid; 
A.  Seminiy  Cleopatra;  Castiglione,  the 
finding  of  Romulus. — VII.  Sala  di 
PoNBNTE.  OuercinOy  Mutius  Scsevola 
before  Porsenna ;  Luea  di  Olanda,  De- 
scent from  the  Cross,  with  portraits  of 
the  Donatorio  and  family  in  the  lateral 
compartments,  the  men  on  the  1.  and 
the  females  on  the  rt. ;  Spagnoletto^ 
the  Woman  taken  in  Adultery  ;  Fran- 
oeschini,  Bathsheba  in  the  Bath,  a 
good  painting ;  Ann.  Caracci,  a  pretty 
small  Magdalen  on  Copper ;  Vandghe^ 
portrait  of  one  of  the  Pallavacinis; 
BassanOf  two  pictures  of  Cattle  and 
Sheep. 

The  beautiful  Villa  Pallavicini  at 
Pegli  (see  p.  105)  belongs  to  the  owner 
of  tlus  palace,  one  of  the  most  wealthy 
of  the  Genoese  aristocracy,  where  orders 
to  visit  it  may  be  obtained. 


The  Strada  Satbi^  which  forms  a 
contintiation  of  the  Piazza  deW  Amnun' 
ziata,  derives  its  name  from  the  noble 
fiunily  by  whom  some  of  its  palaces 
were  built,  the  principal  of  which  are 
— on  the  rt.  side,  P.  Dwazzo  delta 
Scala  and  F.  Balhi,  now  the  University; 
and  on  the  1.  another  P.  Balbi,  which 
was  once  the  Durazzo  Palace,  but  which, 
having  been  sold  to  the  government, 
now  forms  the  residence  of  the  sove- 
reign, under  the  name  of  Palazzo 
Beale, 

Palazzo  BalMf  a  fine  palace  built  in  | 
the  early  part  of  the  17th  century  from  / 
the  designs  of  Bartolommeo  Bianco. 
The  court  is  surrounded  by  3  tiers  of 
porticoes,  the  uppermost  of  which 
forms  part  of  the  family  apartments, 
being  enclosed  with  glass.  This  suite 
of  rooms  is  very  richly  decorated,  and, 
being  at  all  times  open  to  the  stranger, 
will  give  him  a  good  idea  of  the  dwell- 
ings of  the  wealthy  Genoese  aristo- 
cracy :  the  vaulted  ceilings  are  highly 
ornamented  and  painted  by  native 
artists.  The  rooms  contain  a  very 
good  collection  of  pictures,  many  of 
which  are  first-rate ;  indeed  the  Balbi 
gallery  may  be  considered  the  third  in 
importance  in  6knoa. 

The  first  room  entered  frt)m  the  / 
quadrangular  closed  portico  is  the  I 
Gbeat  Hall,  or  Salone,  a  magnifi- 
cent square  room. —  Vandyke,  an  eques- 
trian portrait,  very  fine  ;  Bernardino 
Strozzi,  or  II  Cc^>puccino,  Joseph  in- 
terpreting the  chief  Butler's  dream — 
one  of  the  artist's  best  works — he  was  a 
Genoese  Capuchin  friar,  and  in  a  great 
measure  self-taught.  2nd  Room. — 
6.  GhtidOy  Lucretia ;  7.  Albani,  a  Bac- 
chanalian scene ;  Ann.  Caraccif  Sta. 
Caterina  —  very  pretty  picture;  Ag. 
Caracdf  a  Martyr ;  18.  Mantegna,  Ma- 
donna and  Child ;  19.  Michel  Angelo, 
Our  Saviour  and  the  Apostles— more 
than  doubtful — called  by  some  Christ's 
Agony  in  the  Garden,  said  to  be  de- 
signed by  M.  Angelo,  and  finished  by 
Seb.  del  Piombo ;  20.  Vandyke,  A  Holy 
Family.  Buhens,  Our  Lord  and  St.  John 
the  Baptist  as  infiints.  3rd  Rooii.— 23. 


Riviera. 


EotUe  13. — Genoa — Palaces-^Pictures* 


119 


Vandyke,  *fine  portrait  of  a  lady  seated; 
24.  id.,  *eque9trian]  portrait  of  Paolo 
Balbi  the  senator,  to  which  was  subse- 
quently added  by  Velasquez  the  head 
of  Philip  II.  of  Spain,  to  save  it  from 
destruction  when  Balbi  was  disgraced 
and  banished  &om  Genoa;  25.  Zuca 
Cambiaso,  family  portrait.  4th  Boom. 
— 31.  Michel  Angelo  Ca/ra-oaggio,  Con- 
version of  St.  Paul ;  32.  Jjwia  di 
Olanda,  a  Holy  Family;  Ouido,  St. 
Jerome  ;  Ann.  Caracci,  a  Magdalen. 
5th  Room,  Library.  —  39.  GitercinOy 
Andromeda  ;  41.  Chiercino,  Cleopatra  ; 
45.  Stusano,  a  large  picture  of  a  Market. 
6th  Boom,  Gallery. — ^Although  this 
beautiful  room  contains  nearly  as  many 
paintings  as  all  the  others  united,  none 
are  very  remarkable ;  Spagnoletto,  two 
pictures  called  the  Philosopher  and 
Mathematician ;  Tintoretto,  a  fine  male 
portrait ;  Pierino  del  Vaga,  Madonna 
and  Child ;  73.  Vandyke,  A  Holy  Fa- 
mily ;  75.  Vandyke,  Portrait  of  a  Spa- 
nish Gentleman  on  horseback  ;  82. 
Memling,  *  Our  Saviour  on  the  Cross ; 
85.  Garofalo,  A  Holy  Family;  87. 
Mlippo  lAppi,  The  Communion  of 
St.  Jerome ;  O^ido,  Assumption  of  the 
Magdalene ;  Taolo  Veronese,  Portrait 
of  a  Venetian  Doge. 

Palazzo  Meale.  Formerly  belonging 
to  the  Durazzo  family,  was  purchased 
by  the  king  in  1815,  and  splendidly 
fitted  up  by  Charles  Albert  in  1842,  as 
a  royal  residence.  The  front  is  nearly 
300  feet  in  length ;  it  was  built  firom 
the  designs  of  G.  A.  Falcone  and  P.  F. 
Cantone.  It  contained  a  fine  collection 
of  pictures,  the  greater  part  of  which 
have  been  removed  to  the  Boyal  Gal- 
lery at  Turin.  The  fine  portraits  of 
the  Xhirazzo  family,  and  the  other  pic- 
tures relative  to  that  noble  house,  by 
Piola  and  Barloletto,  are  however  still 
at  Genoa  in  possession  of  their  de- 
scendants. The  P.  Beale  is  open  to 
strangers  every  day  except  during  the 
OGcasipnal  visits  of  the  court. 

Entering  from  the  great  staircase  on 
the  second  floor,  the  1st  room  has  2 
large  Marinas  by  Burrasca ;  the  2nd, 
called  the  Salotto  delta  Faoe^  a  Carita 


Bomana  by  Carloni  s  the  3rd,  the 
Salotto  di  Paolo,  contains  an  ancient 
copy  of  the  fine  picture  which  is  now  in 
the  gallery  of  Turin,  by  Paul  Veronese, 
representing  the  Feast  of  Our  Lord  in 
the  house  of  the  Pharisee,  with  the 
Magdalene  at  his  feet.  Opening  out 
of  this  rooni  is  the  Gean  Galleria, 
painted  by  Parodi :  there  are  some  indif- 
ferent antique  statues,  busts  of  Apollo, 
Venus,  Bacchus,  &c.,  but  all  much 
made  up  :  2  modem  ones  of  Flora  and 
Zephyr  by  Filippo  Parodi,  and  a  group 
of  the  Bape  of  Proserpine  by  Schiaffone. 
Becrossing  the  Salotto  di  Paolo,  we 
enter  the  Piccola  Gallebia,  forming 
a  passage  to  what  formerly  was  called 
the  Salone  di  Giordano,  but  which  is 
now  the  Theone  Boom,  newly  and 
magnificently  decorated  and  containing 
the  2  celebrated  pictures  by  Luca  Gior- 
dano, of  Olinda  and  Sophronia,  and  the 
Transformation  of  Phineas  by  Perseus. 
Next  to  this  is  the  king's  Audience 
Room,  having  only  some  indifierent 
modem  pictures  and  tapestry  ;  copies 
of  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul  by  Fra  Bar- 
tolommeo:  followed  by  the  bed-room 
and  study  of  the  unfortunate  king 
Carlo  Alberto,  the  floors  formed  of 
very  handsome  inlaid  work  in  coloured 
woods.  In  the  Sola  delta  Ca/ppetla  there 
is  a  Last  Supper  by  5o«»<m»o  diFerrara; 
San  Bernardo  by  Spagnoletto  ;  San 
Antonio  by  Ann.  Caracci;  a  Dead  Man 
by  Sonthorst  s  a  Sibilla  Cumsea  by 
Ann.  Caracci.  In  the  Satone  di  Tapis- 
seria  are  some  very  old  Gobelins  and 
several  portraits  of  kings  of  the  House 
of  Savoy,  which  replace  those  of  the 
Durazzo  family  that  once  stood  in 
these  spaces,  and  which  were  not  aUen- 
ated  with  the  palace.  Salotta  di 
AuEOEA  contains  a  Crucifixion  and  a 
portrait  of  Caterina  Durazzo,  said  to 
be  by  Vandyke ;  2  pictures  of  saints  by 
It  Cappuccino,  &c. :  this  room  opens  on 
the  beautiful  terrace  overlooking  the 
harbour,  fix)m  which  the  view  is  so 
interesting.  At  the  opposite  side  of 
this  terrace  is  a  room  called  the  Sa- 
lotta DEL  Tempo,  corresponding  with 
the  S,  di  Aurora,  in  which  there  is  a 
good  Madonna   and    Child  with  St. 


120 


Eouie  13. — Genoa — Fcdaoes — Pictures. 


Sect.  n. 


John  by  D.  Piola;  2  doubtful  por- 
traits by  Tintoretto;  2  battle-pieces 
by  Borgognone ;  and  several  pictures 
with  animals  by  il  Oreohetto  ;  the  Wo- 
man taken  in  Adultery  by  Moretto 
da  Brescia ;  a  pretended  head  by 
Titiany  &o. 

Palazzo  delta  Universitd,  Strada 
Balbi.  This  building  was  erected  at 
the  expense  of  the  Balbi  family.  The 
yestibule  and  the  cortile  are  amongst 
the  finest  specimens  of  the  kind.  Two 
huge  lions  are  placed  at  the  top  of 
the  staircase.  The  halls  are  decorated 
with  frescoes  by  Grenoese  painters  and 
with  oil  pictures.  The  HaU  of  Me- 
dicine contains  some  bronze  statues  by 
GKovanni  di  Bologna,  and  in  the  Great 
Hail  are  six  of  the  Cardinal  Virtues  by 
the  same  sculptor,  whilst  in  a  third 
room  above  are  a  number  of  his 
bas-reliefs  in  bronze.  The  museum  of 
natural  history  is  interesting,  as  con- 
taining  a  good  collection  of  the  birds 
and  fishes  of  this  part  of  Italy.  The 
library,  which  is  open  to,  the  public, 
contains  about  45,000  vols.  The  Uni- 
versity consists  of  three  Acuities,  Law, 
Medicine,  and  Humanities.  In  each 
there  is  a  senate  composed  of  twelve 
doctors,  by  whom  the  degrees  are  con- 
ferred. In  the  church  belonging  to  the 
University  is  a  bas-relief  in  bronze, 
and  in  the  sacristy  another,  a  good 
Descent  from  the  Cross,  both  by  Giov. 
di  Bologna.  Behind  the  University 
Palace  is  a  small  Botanic  Garden ;  in 
the  court  leading  to  it  several  curious 
inscriptions  removed  here  from  sup- 
pressed churches,  and  on  the  top  of 
the  palace  the  Meteorological  Obser- 
vatory. 

Palazzo  Dwazzo,  or  delta  Scala  (of 
the  Stairs),  in  the  Via  Balbi,  is  one  of 
the  finest  of  the  Genoese  palaces:  it 
was  erected  in  the  17th  century  for  the 
Balbis,  by  Bart.  Bianco,  The  court  is 
surrounded  by  a  Doric  colonnade  of 
white  marble,  from  a  comer  of  which 
opens  the  magnificent  flight  of  stairs 
which  has  rendered  it  so  celebrated. 
The  2  statues  of  Union  and  Force,  in 
the  lower  vestibule,  are  by  J^.  Rovaschio. 


The  Palace  contains  several  good  pic- 
.tures.  Ist  room  on  the  left :  Lndovioo 
Caroled,  an  Ecce  Homo ;  Annibale 
Cwracdy  St.  Peter;  Paolo  Veronese^ 
S.  Catherine ;  Jtubens  and  VandycJcy  2 
circular  portraits.  2nd  saloon  :  Oiier' 
cinOy  Christ  and  the  Pharisees,  or  the 
Tribute  Money ;  Simone  da  PesarOy 
the  Flight  into  Egypt  j  Pellegrini,  the 
Oath  of  Gertrude,  mother  of  Hamlet ; 
Titian,  a  Magdalen,  injured  by  re- 
storers ;  Proca^ciniy  the  Woman  taken 
in  Adultery.  3rd  saloon :  Vandyck,  4t 
fine  portraits  of  the  Durazzo  fieimily  $ 
jSi«5en«,  Philip  IV. ;  DomenichinOy  Jesus 
appearing  to  Mary,  the  Martyrdom  of 
St.  Sebastian,  and  Venus  weepiag  over 
Adonis;  Spagnoletto,  3  pictures  of 
Philosophers. 

Palazzo  ImpericUe,  near  the  Piazza 
del  Campetto.  This  palace  is  much 
decayed.  In  the  soffit  are  frescoes, 
with  mythological  subjects  in  the  com- 
partments. 

To  describe  all  the  palaces  of  G-enoa 
would  be  out  of  place  in  the  present 
work,  yet  one  more  must  be  noticed, 
which,  from  its  situation,  is  the  most 
striking  of  them  all:  the  Palazzo 
Doriay  called  also  P.  del  Principe, 
situated  beyond  the  Piazza  di  Aqua 
Verde,  outside  the  Porta  di  San  To- 
maso,  and  the  gardens  of  which  extend 
to  the  sea.  These  gardens,  with  the  pa- 
lace in  their  centre,  form  a  noble  feature 
in  the  panorama  of  the  port  of  Genoa, 
This  magnificent  pile,  originally  the 
Palazzo  Fregoso,  was  given  to  the  great 
Andrea  Doria,  in  1522,  and  improved,  or 
rather  rebuilt,  and  brought  to  its  present 
form,  by  him.  The  stately  fedings  of 
this  Doria,  who  is  emphatically  called 
"  II  Principe"  (for  that  title  of  dignity 
had  been  granted  to  him  by  Charles  V.), 
are  expressed  in  the  inscription  which 
is  engraved  on  the  exterior  of  the  edi- 
fice :  "  Divino  munere,  Andreas  D'Oria 
Cev£e  F.  S.  R.  Ecclesias  Caroli  Imp«ra- 
toris  CatoUci  maxim!  et  invictissimi 
Francisci  primi  Franoorum  Begis  et 
Patries  classis  triremium  iin.  prsafectui 
ut  maximo  labore  jam  fesso  corpore 
honesto  otio  quiesoeret,  aedes  sibi  et 
successoribus  instauravit.  m.d.xxtui." 


HiviERA.  Boute  13,— Geiwa — Palazzo  del  Principe, 


121 


The  architect  who  directed  Doris's 
alterations  was  Montorsoli,  a  Floren- 
tine, but  many  portions  were  designed 
by  Pierino  del  Vaga,  who  has  here 
left  some  of  the  best  productions  of 
his  pencil.  Pierino,  poor,  sorrowful, 
and  needy,  driven  from"  Some  by 
the  calamities  which  had  befiEdlen 
the  Eternal  City  when  stormed  by 
the  Imperialists  in  1527,  was  kindly 
received  by  Doria,  who  became  his 
patron,  giving  him  constant  employ- 
ment. He  worked  here,  not  merely  as 
a  painter,  but  as  a  general  decorator; 
and  it  was  Dorians  express  wish  to 
reproduce  in  his  palace,  as  much  as  pos- 
sible, the  magnificence  of  the  buUdings 
which  Eaphael  had  adorned  at  Bome. 

The  decorations  introduced  by  Pie- 
rino in  this  palace  were  exceedingly 
admired ;  and  he  became,  in  fact,  the 
foimder  of  the  peculiar  style  which 
prevails  in  the  other  palaces  by  which 
Ghenoa  has  been  so  much  adorned.  In 
the  gallery  that  leads  to  the  terraced 
I  garden  are  the  portraits  of  Andrea  Do- 
^  ria  and  his  family.  The  figures  are  in 
a  semi-heroic  costume;  Andrea  Doria 
is  grey-headed,  his  sons  are  helmeted, 
and  supporting  themselves  upon  their 
shields.  Beyond  this  gallery  you  look 
upon  the  garden,  where  are  walks  of 
cypress  and  orange,  fountains,  statues, 
and  vases.  In  the  backgroimd  are 
the  moles,  the  hghthouse,  and  the  sea. 
The  fountain  in  the  centre  represents 
Andrea  in  the  character  of  Neptune. 
Over  another  fountain  is  a  fanciful 
'  mermaid  or  merman,  the  portrait  of 
one  which,  accordiag  to  popular  be- 
lief^ was  caught  at  G^enoa.  Opposite 
to  the  palace,  on  the  street  front,  is  an- 
other garden  belonging  to  it,  bordered  by 
a  grapery.  In  this  garden  is  the  monu- 
ment raised  by  Doria  to  "  U  graiC 
S^ldano^^  a  great  dog  which  had  been 
given  to  him  by  Charles  V. :  here  also 
is  a  grotto  built  by  Alessio,  in  its  time 
much  admired,  but  now  almost  a  ruin. 
The  successive  employments  held  by 
Doria  enabled  him  to  acquire  great 
wealth.  With  these  riches  he  was  able 
to  keep  a  fleet  of  22  galleys;  a  force 
with  wliich  lie  turned  the  scale  against 
N,  //a^y— 1866. 


the  French,  and  accomplished  the  deli- 
verance of  (>enoa,  11th  Sept.  1528,  from 
the  heavy  yoke  which  they  imposed. 

"  Questo  d  quel  Doria,  che  &  dai  Piiati 
Sicuro  il  vostro  mar  per  tutti  i  lati. 

Non  ffi  Pompeio  a  par  di  oostni  degno, 
Se  ben  vinse,  e  caccio  tutti  i  Corsari ; 
Pero  che  quelli  al  piii  possente  regno 
Che  fosse  mai,  non  poteano  esser  pari ; 
Ma  questo  Doria  sol  col  proprio  ingegno 
£  proprie  forze  purghera  quel  mari ; 
Si  che  da  Calpe  al  Nilo,  ovunque  s'  oda 
II  nome  suo,  tremar  veggio  ogni  proda. 

Questi,  ed  ognaltro  che  la  patria  tenta 
Di  libera  far  serva,  si  arrossisca ; 
Ne  dove  il  nome  d'  Andrea  Doria  senta, 
Di  levar  gli  occhi  in  viso  d'  uomo  ardisca. 
Veggio  Carlo,  die  'I  premio  gli  augmenta ; 
Ch'  oltre  quel  che  in  commuQ  voul  che 

Aruisca, 
Gli  da  la  ricca  terra,  ch'  ai  N<Hrmandi 
Sartt  principiD  a  farli  in  Puglia  grandi.* 

Orlando  Furioso,  cant.  xv.  30-34. 

It  was  under  Dorians  influence  and 
counsel  that  the  form  of  government 
was  established  in  Genoa  which  lasted 
till  the  French  revolution.  He  was 
offered  the  ducal  authority  for  Hfe,  and 
there  is  no  doubt  but  that  he  might  have 
acquired  the  absolute  sovereignty.  The 
Dorias  are  still  numerous  at  Grenoaf 
but  the  elder  branch,  to  whom  this 
palace  belongs,  since  its  alliance  with 
the  Papal  family  of  Pamphili,  resides 
at  Eome;  a  part  of  the  palace  is  gene- 
rally let,  and  is  in  good  preservation. 

The  Duomo  or  Cathedral^  dedicated 
to  St,  Lorenzo^  was  built  in  the  11th 
centy.,  consecrated  in  1118  by  Pope 
G-elasius  II.,  and  restored  about  1300. 
The  front  belongs  to  the  latter  date. 
The  intention  was,  probably,  to  erect 
two  towers,  but  of  these  only  one  has 
been  executed,  and  that  at  a  later  period. 
There  are  traces  in  this  edifice  of  the 
taste  which  prevailed  at  Pisa  and  Lucca. 
Some  of  the  columns  of  the  portal  were 
taken  from  Almeida,  as  part  of  the  spoils 
won  at  the  capture  of  that  city,  1148 : 
among  the  vestiges  of  an  earUer  period 
are  the  curious  ornaments  on  the  N., 
exhibiting  monsters  and  runic  knots, 
and  some  rude  basso-riUevos  encrusted 
in  the  outer  walls.     Over  the  principal 


122 


Eoute  13. — Genoa — Cathedral, 


Sect.  II. 


entrance  is  a  bas-relief  representing  the 
Martyrdom  of  S.  Lawrence,  with  some 
quaint  figures  of  the  13th  or  14th 
cents.  J  and  into  several  parts  of  the 
outer  walls  are  let  Pagan  bas-reliefs, 
which  formed  the  front  of  sarcophagi, 
of  the  Boman  period. 

In  some  parts  of  the  church  are  in- 
scriptions, from  wliich  we  ascertain  that 
thjB  N.  side  was  completed  in  1307,  and 
the  9.  in  1312;  furthermore  it  is  on 
one  related  how  the  city  was  founded  by 
Janus  I.  King  of  Italy,  the  grandson 
of  Noah;  and  how  Janus  II.  Prince 
of  Troy  took  possession  of  the  city 
founded  by  his  namesake  and  ancestor. 
These  inscriptions  are  enffraved  in  capi- 
tal letters  exactly  in  the  form  employed 
in  coeval  manuscripts,  and  are  fine 
specimens  of  lapidary  caUigraphy. 

Internally  the  nave  is  preceded  by  a 
very  elegant  inner  Gothic  porch  with  a 
groined  roof,  and  which,  as  well  as  the 
pilasters  that  support  it,  is  formed  of 
alternate  courses  of  black  and  white 
marble:  over  this  porch  is  what  was 
originally  the  Cantoria  or  organ-loft. 
The  nave  is  separated  from  the  aisles 
by  Corinthian  columns  supporting 
pointed  arches,  each  column  being 
formed  of  that  variety  of  serpentine 
called  Polcevera  breccia :  upon  these 
pointed  arches  rests  an  entablature 
with  a  long  inscription  in  Gothic 
letters,  over  which  rises  a  second  tier 
of  round  arches,  supported  by  alter- 
nate stumpy  cobimns  and  pilasters,  in 
alternate  courses  of  white  and  black 
marble,  in  the  early  Italian-Gothic 
style. 

The  choir  and  side  chapels  have  been 
modernised,  and  covered  with  sculp- 
tures, paintings,  and  gilding.  The 
architecture  is  by  Alessio.  The  high 
altar  is  decorated  with  a  fine  statue  in 
bronze  of  the  Madonna  and  Child,  by  G. 
P.  Bianchi,  a  work  of  the  17th  cent. 

The  paintings  are  not  first-rate  j  the 
principal  are — Barroccio,  St.  Sebastian, 
in  the  chapel  at  the  end  of  the  rt. 
^ave;  Ferrari,  the  Virgin;  i^oia,  the 
Ascension;  and,  X.  Camhiaao,  Saints 
adoring  the  Infant  Saviour,  good.  The 
stalls  of  the  choir  behind  the  high  altar 


are  in  very  handsome  wood-carving 
with  backs  of  coloured  intctrsia-woTk : 
the  choir,  according  to  the  inscription, 
was  restored  to  its  present  form  in 
1624.  The  ancient  manuscript  choir- 
books  are  vet  in  use,  and  they  are  fine 
volumes  oi  their  kind.  In  the  PaUa* 
vicini  chapel,  corresponding  to  the  left- 
hand  transept,  is  a  detached  marble 
statue  of  a  cardinal  kneeling  before  the 
altar,,  a  good  figure.  An  altarpiece 
by  Gaggini,  of  Ghenoa,  has  lately  been 
put  up  in  the  chapel  on  the  rt.  of  the 
high  altar. 

The  richest  portion  of  this  church 
is  the  Chapel  of  8t.  John  the  Baptist, 
into  which  no  female  is  permitted  to 
enter  except  on  one  day  of  the  year,  an 
exclusion  imposed  by  Pope  linocent 
VIII.,  as  it  is  said,  in  recollection  of 
the  daughter  of  Herodias.  The  screen 
which  divides  it  from  the  church  is  in 
a  rich  cinquecento  or  Benaissance,  and 
was  completed  about  1496.  The  canopy 
over  the  altar,  supported  by  four  por- 
phyry pillars,  covering  the  sarcophagus 
in  which  the  so-called  reUcs  of  the 
Baptist  are  contained,  was  erected  in 
1532  at  the  expense  of  FiHppo  Doria. 
The  eleven  statues,  and  the  bas-reliefs 
which  adorn  the  external  faQade,  are 
by  OuglieJmo  delta  Porta.  Eight 
niches  in  the  interior  of  the  chapel  are 
also  filled  with  statues,  six  of  which 
are  by  Matteo  dvitale  (1435-1501), 
that  of  Zaccharias  is  pecularly  fine; 
and  two,  the  Madonna,  and  the  Baptist, 
by  Sansovino.  The  altar  is  by  Qiacomo 
and  Chuglielmo  della  Porta.  The  relics 
of  the  saint  are  contained  in  an  iron- 
boimd  chest,  which  is  seen  through 
the  apertures  of  the  marble  covering. 
On  the  day  of  his  nativity  they  are 
carried  in  procession,  being  placed  in 
the  Cassone  di  San*  Giovanni,  a  shrine 
preserved  in  the  treasury  of  the  cathe- 
dral. It  was  made  in  1437  by  Daniele 
da  Teramoy  of  silver  gilt,  a  combination 
of  Gothic  panels,  tracery,  and  finials  of 
the  most  delicate  workmanship.  The 
sides  are  covered  with  imagery  of  the 
history  of  St.  John ;  the  figures  being 
all  but  completely  detached  from  the 
background. 


HiVIERA. 


Boute  13. — Genoa — Churches, 


123 


In  the  treasury  is  preserved  a  more 
interesting  relic,  tne  Saoro  CatinO)  long 
supposed  to  be  composed  of  a  siogb 
piece  of  emerald.  It  was  part  of  the 
BpoUs  taken  at  Oessarea,  1101.  The 
(kisaders  and  their  allies  divided  the 
booty;  and  the  Genoese,  under  the 
command  of  Goiglielmo  Embriaco,  se- 
lected this  precious  vessel  as  their 
portion.  The  supposed  intrinsic  worth 
of  the  material  was  infinitely  enhanced 
by  the  fond  traditions  annexed  to  the 
vessel,  whether  as  a  gift  &om  the 
Queen  of  Sheba  to  Solomon,  or  as 
the  dish  which  held  the  Pascal  Lamb 
at  the  Last  Supper,  or  the  vessel 
in  which  Joseph  of  Anmathea  received 
the  blood  flowing  from  the  side  of 
the  Bedeemer.  Three  times  each  year 
was  the  Catino  brought  out  of  the 
sacristy,  and  exposed  to  the  venera- 
tion of  the  faithful.  A  prelate  of  high 
rank  exhibited  it  to  the  multitude; 
and  around  him  were  ranged  the  Cla- 
vigeri,  to  whose  care  the  relic  was  com- 
mitted. No  stranger  was  allowed  to 
touch  the  Catino  under  heavy  penal- 
ties ;  and  the  attempt  to  try  the  mate- 
rial by  steel  or  diamond,  gem  or  coral, 
or  any  real  or  supposed  test  of  its  genu- 
ineness or  hardness,  was  punishable 
with  heavy  fines,  imprisonment,  or  even 
death.  Acute  and  somewhat  sceptical 
travellers,  as  Keysler  and  the  Abb^ 
Barthelemy,  in  spite  of  these  precau- 
tions, saw  enough  to  lead  them  to  sup- 
pose that  the  Catmo  was  glass,  a  fact 
which  is  now  fully  confinned.  But 
the  extraordinary  perfection  of  the  ma- 
terial, as  well  as  of  the  workmanship, 
must  always  cause  it  to  be  considered 
as  a  very  remarkable  monument,  and 
of  remote  antiquity.  The  dish  is  hex- 
agonal, with  some  slight  ornaments, 
which  appear  to  have  been  finished 
with  the  tool,  as  in  gem  engraving. 
The  colour  is  beautiful,  the  transpa- 
rency perfect;  but  a  few  air-bubbles 
sufficiently  disclose  the  substance  of 
which  it  is  made.  The  Catino  was  sent 
tp  Paris ;  and  was  reclaimed  in  1815, 
with  other  ol\jects  of  art.  It  was  so 
carelessly  packed  that  it  broke  by  the 
wny.  The  fra^gments  have  been  united 
by  a  setting  of  gold  filigree.    The  keys 


of  the  cabinet  are  kept  by  the  munici- 
pal authorities,  and  a  fee  of  about  6 
francs  is  expected,  at  least  from  Eng- 
Udmen,  by  the  officer  who  opens  the 
door. 

Near  the  cathedral  is  the  Baptisterif^ 
no  longer  used  as  such;  and  a  large 
cloister^  in  which  are  the  residences  of 
the  canons,  but  it  has  nearly  lost  all 
vestiges  of  antiquity. 

Many  of  the  chtuxjhes  of  Genoa  were 
demolished  during  the  Erench  occupa* 
tion.  Amongst  those  which  remain, 
the  most  conspicuous  are 

SawP  Agoatino,  now  desecrated,  a  good 
specimen  of  the  Ghenoese  Gothic  of  the 
14th  centy.  The  campanile,  which,  like 
the  rest  of  the  church,  is  built  of  alter- 
nate courses  of  white  and  black  marble, 
is  remarkable. 

Sanf  Amhrogio  or  di  Qesily  entirely 
built  at  the  expense  of  the  Pallavacini 
family.  The  interior  is  covered  with 
rich  marbles  and  paintings ;  from  the 
vaulting  down  to  the  pavement  all 
is  marble,  mosaics,  gold,  and  colours. 
Here  are  several  fine  paintings : — The 
Assumption,  by  GhudOy  in  the  3rd 
chapel  on  the  rt. :  the  Virgin  sur- 
rounded by  hosts  of  angels.  The 
commission  for  this  picture  was  sent 
to  Bologna,  and  ofiered  to  the  Caracci 
and  to  Ghiido ;  when  the  latter,  being 
willing  to  execute  it  for  half  the  price 
demanded  by  his  competitors,  obtained 
the  order.  The  Caracci  were  much 
vexed ;  but  when  the  pictxire  was  ex- 
hibited, they  fully  acknowledged  its 
excellence.  The  Circumcision,  over  the 
High  Altar,  by  Bubens^  planted  before 
he  came  to  Genoa;  and  St.  Ignatius 
healing  a  Demoniac,  in  the  1.  aisles 
painted  in  this  city.  The  altar-piece, 
was  executed  whilst  he  was  in  ignorance 
of  the  height  and  the  position  whence 
it  would  be  seen;  but  in  the  second 
picture  he  was  able  to  adapt  his  figures 
accurately  to  their  site.  Beneath  is  a 
small  painting  of  the  Virgin  and  Child, 
which  belonged  to  St.  Ignatius.  The 
frescoes  in  the  cupolas  are  principally 
by  Carloni  and  GaleoUo.  The  four 
y&cY  fine  Corinthian  columns  at  tlie, 
high  altar  are  of  Porto  Venere  marble. 
^  G  2 


f 


124 


Eoute  13. — Genoa — Churches, 


Sect  ir. 


Jj  AaMkwndata  is,  like  many  other 
churches  we  have  noticed,  a  monument 
of  private  munificence.  It  was  built 
and  decorated  at  the  expense  of  the  Lo- 
mellini  family,  formerly  sovereigns  of 
the  island  of  Tabarca  off  the  N.  coast 
of  AMca,  which  they  held  until  1741, 
when  it  was  taken  by  the  Bey  of  Timis. 
The  very  rich  marbles  of  the  interior 
givie  it  extraordinary  splendour.  The 
roof  has  been  recently  regilt,  and  the 
church  magnificently  restored.  Here 
is  the  "Oena"  of  Procacciniy  a  noble 
painting,  but  unfavourably  placed  over 
the  principal  entrance. 

The  Ch.  of  San  JDonato^  built  on  the 
site  of  a  more  ancient  edifice  of  the 
11th  centy.  In  the  interior  are  some 
columns,  in  granite  and  cippolino,  of  a 
pagan  edifice,  which  support  the  round 
arches  of  the  nave.  In  front  are 
links  of  the  chains  of  the  Porto  Pisano, 
which  were  distributed  among  the  dif- 
ferent parish  churches  of  the  city  after 
its  capture  by  the  Genoese.  The  oc- 
tagonal bell-tower  is  of  an  early  period. 

San  Giovanni  di  Pre,  near  the  dock- 
yard, formerly  the  Oiiu'ch  of  the 
fenights  of  St.  John,  built  in  the  13th 
century ;  some  of  the  round  arches  of 
the  original  edifice  are  still  visible ;  the 
present  entrance  has  been  cut  into  the 
tribime  at  the  E.  extremity  of  the  old 
church,  at  a  comparatively  recent  period. 
It  was  in  the  rich  convent  to  which  this 
church  was  attached  that  Urban  V. 
resided  on  his  return  from  Avignon. 
Some  remains  of  the  ancient  cloisters 
may  be  yet  seen,  with  a  head  of  St. 
John  of  the  12th  centy.  over  one  of 
the  doors.  It  was  in  the  convent  of 
S.  Giovanni  that  Urban  VI.  caused  to 
be  barbarously  executed  5  cardinals 
of  his  opponents,  made  prisoners  at 
the  siege  of  Lucera  in  1386 ;  the  sixth, 
being  an  Englishman,  Cardinal  Adam 
of  Hertford,  is  said  to  have  been 
spared  in  consequence  of  the  inter- 
cession of  his  countrymen,  then  in- 
fluential at  Grenoa.  In  making  some 
excavations  years  ago  the  skeletons  of 
these  imfortunate  victims  of  Papal 
vengeance  were  discovered.    The  crypt 


of  this  ch.,  now  used  as  a  warehouse,  is 
probably  of  the  12th  century. 

Santa  Maria  di  Carignano,  finely 
situated  on  a  hill,  built  fr^m  the  ground 
about  1552,  and  endowed  by  the  Sauli 
family.  It  is  in  the  form  of  a  Greek 
cross,  with  a  lofty  dome  in  the  centre. 
It  was  built  by  Alessio.  Two  colossal 
statues  by  Puget,  and  two  by  David^ 
are  placed  beneath  the  cupola.  They 
represent  St.  Sebastian,  St.  John,  St. 
Bartholomew,  and  the  blessed  Alessan- 
dro  Sauli.  Paintings, — Guercino,  St. 
Francis  receiving  the  stigmata — origin- 
ally good,  though  now  damaged ;  JRro- 
cacciniy  the  Virgin  and  Saints ;  Piola^ 
St.  Peter  and  St.  John  healing  the 
Man  afflicted  with  Palsy;  Cambiaso, 
Three  subjects,  of  which  the  best  is  a 
Piet^;  Carlo  Maratta,  The  Martyr- 
dom of  St.  Biagio ;  Vanni  of  Sienna^ 
St.  Catherine  receiving  the  Sacrament ; 
Fiasellay  Bishop  Saidi  going  in  Pro- 
cession. 

A  fine  view  of  Genoa  is  obtained 
from  the  top  of  the  cupola,  which  is 
ascended  with  tolerable  ease.  Oppo- 
site to  the  church  is  a  noble  bridge  or 
viaduct,  also  built  by  the  munificence  of 
the  Saulis,  begim  1718,  by  an  archif^ct 
named  Langlade.  It  joins  two  hills, 
crossing  the  street  and  houses  below. 
Some  of  these  houses  are  seven  stories 
high  (adding  to  the  reminiscence  which 
the  bridge  gives  of  Edinburgh)  j  the 
bridge  rises  far  above  their  roofs,  and 
affords  a  cool  and  pleasant  evening  walk. 

Santa  Maria  di  CasteUo,  supposed  to. 
be  built  on  the  site  of  a  temple  of  Diana, 
The  present  church  is  not  very  ancient : 
some  parts  of  it  may  go  back  as  far  as 
1350.  The  interior  consists  of  a  hand- 
some nave,  separated  from  the  aisles 
by  6  roimd  arches,  supported  by 
granite  columns  with  Corinthian  and 
composite  capitals,  and  which  formed 
a  part  of  some  Boman  edifice,  possibly 
of  the  Temple  of  Diana.  There  are 
some  good  paintings  of  the  Gkjnoese 
school  here.  In  the  3rd  chapel  on 
the  rt.  a  curious  specimen  by  Ludomco 
Prea,  representing  a  number  of  quaint 
figures  in  the  costume  of  his  time ;  and 
an  Adoration  of  the  Virgin  j — a  picture, 


Riviera. 


Bmde  13. — Omoa — Churches. 


125 


in  6  compartments,  of  the  14tli  centy., 
the  Annunciation,  with  Saints  on  either 
side.  The  choir  contains  tombs  of  the 
Gtiustmianis,  great  protectors  of  this 
church  and  convent,  belonging  to  the 
order  of  St.  Dominick.  In  the  adjoin- 
ing cloister  are  some  early  frescoes,  one 
signed  by  a  certain  Justus  deAllemania, 
in  1451. 

Santa  Maria  in  Via  Lata,  on  the 
hill  beyond  the  Gh.  of  Oarignano,  is  a 
Tery  old  church,  now  desecrated,  the 
walls  being  of  alternate  courses  of  black 
and  white  marble.  It  is  chiefly  inter- 
esting as  having  belonged  to  the  Fies- 
chis,  and  annexed  to  their  palace,  which 
covered  a  large  space  hereabouts,  and 
which  was  razed  after  the  unsuccessful 
attempt  of  Luca  Fieschi,  who  in  the 
celebrated  conspiracy  which  bears  his 
name  here  assembled  his  followers  in 
1336,  to  subvert  the  power  of  the  Do- 
nas. 

BanCMa  tteo.  This  interesting  Httle 
ch.,  which  has  always  remained  under 
the  patronage  of  the  Dorias,  was  found- 
ed in  1125  by  Martino  D.,  an  ecclesi- 
astic of  the  family :  the  front,  which 
dates  from  1278,  is  a  good  specimen 
of  GCTioese-Gothic,  formed  of  alternate 
courses  of  black  and  white  marble.* 
Five  of  the  white  courses  bear  inscrip- 
tions relating  to  the  achievements  of 
the  family.  The  pilasters  at  either 
extremity  of  the  fagade,  and  on  each 
side  of  the  entrance,  support  the  shields 
of  Genoa  and  of  the  Dorias,  the  red 
cross  on  a  white  ground  and  an  eagle 
erect.  The  uppermost  of  the  inscrip- 
tions commemorates  the  great  naval 
victory  of  Scorzola,  September  7,  1298, 
over  the  Yenetian  fleet,  commanded  by 
Andrea  Dandolo,  by  the  Genoese,  under 
Limiba  Doria,  both  being  the  most 
honoured  names  in  the  military  annals 
of  Italy.  In  the  ancient  Boman  urn 
above,  with  bas-reliefs  of  children  and 
dead  animals,  were  deposited  the  re- 
mains of  Lamba  Doria,  who  died  in 


*  This  mode  of  construction  was  confined  at 
C^oato  pnblifl  edifices  and  to  buildings  erected 
by  the  Commune.  The  four  great  families  of 
I>oria,  Grimaldi,  Spinola,  and  Fieschi,  alone 
among  the  patricians,  had  the  privilege  of  em- 
ploying it. 


1323.     Above  the  principal  door  of 
the  ch.  is  one  of  the  very  few  mosaics 
still  existing  in  Genoa.     It  is  in  the 
ancient  Greek  style.    The  interior  was 
splendidly  reconstructed  at  the  expense 
of  the  great  Andrea  Doria ;  it  consists  of 
a  smsdl  nave  and  aisles,  separated  by  5 
arches  supported  by  composite  columns 
of  white  marble :  behind  the  altar  is  a 
smaU  choir  with   a  good   pieUi  and 
saints  sculptured  by  Montorsoli,  who 
remodelled  the  ch. ;  and  on  each  side, 
chapels  containing  sepulchral  urns  of 
the  Dorias,  and  the  remains  of  Saints 
Maurus,    Eleuterius,    and     Maximus, 
brought  here  from  Istria  by  Pagano 
Doria.     In  the  crypt  beneath  the  high 
altar  is  the  tomb   of  Andrea  Doria, 
also  by  Montorsoli.     In  the  adjoining  • 
cloister,  erected  in  the  early  part  of 
the   14th  century,  have  been  of  late 
aiTanged  several  sepulchral  inscriptions 
of  the  Doria  family,  brought  from  the 
suppressed  church  of  S.  Dominick,  and 
others ;  and  all  that  remained  of  the 
two  colossal  statues  of  Gianetto  Doria, 
who   commanded  at  Lepanto,  and  of 
another  member  of  the  family,  which 
formerly  stood  before  the  Ductd  palace, 
and  which  were  erecjted  there  in  1577 
by  the  Senate :  they  were  thrown  down 
and  mutilated    by  the    revolutionary 
rabble    in    1797.      In    the    adjoining 
Piazza  are  some  curious  specimens  of 
domestic  architecture  —  three  palaces 
of  the   15th  centiuy,  over  the   door 
of   one  of   which    is    an   inscription 
stating  that  it  was  given  to  Andrea 
Doria  by  the  Republic:   Senat,  Cons, 
Andrea:  de  Oria  PatruB  lAheratori  Mu- 
nus  Publicum.   Here  A.  Doria  Hved — it 
was  in  the  small  square  on  which  it 
opens  that  he  assembled  his  fellow- 
citizens  in  1528,  to  consult   on  the 
means  for  driving  off  the  French,  by 
whom   Genoa  was  then  beseiged;   it 
was  in  the  ch.  of  S.  Matteo  that  Doria 
deposited  the  sword  sent  to  him  in 
1535,  by  Paul  III.,  for  the  services  he 
had  rendered  in  the  cause  of  the  Church. 
The  door-sides  of  the  Casa  Doria  have 
some  beautifully  sculptiured  arabesques. 
Over  the  door  of  one  of  the  neigh- 
bouring palaces  is  a  curious  bas-reUef 
of  the  combat  of  St.  George  and  the 


126  Moute  13. — Genoa — Churches — Atbetgo  de*  Pawn.    Sect.  II. 


Dragon,  in  presence  of  the  Yirgin  and 
of  a  Doge  of  Genoa  j  and  on  the  third 
a  long  Grothic  inscription  relative  to 
the  victories  gained  hy  one  of  the 
Doria  family,  to  Tvhom  it  belonged. 

Near  the  ch.  of  S.  Matteo  are  the 
Industrial  Schools  (Scuola  Techniche)^ 
the  staircase  leading  to  which  is  deco- 
rated with  encaustic  tiles,  probably 
brought  from  Spain. 

8afi^  Siro.  The  most  ancient  Chris- 
tian foundation  in  Genoa,  and  asso- 
ciated with  important  events  in  its 
history.  It  was  originally  the  cathe- 
dral, under  the  title  of  the  Basilica 
dei  Dodici  Apostoli,  but  San'  Siro,  or 
Cyrus,  an  ancient  bishop,  became  its 
'  patron;  in  904  the  episcopal  throne 
was  translated  to  St.  Lorenzo.  In  this 
church  the  assembhes  of  the  people 
were  held.  Hero  Guglielmo  Bocca- 
negra  was  proclaimed  Capitano  del 
Popolo  in  1257.  Hitherto  the  powers 
of  government,  and  its  profits  and 
pleasures  also,    had  been  wholly  en- 

i'oyed  by  the  aristocracy.  This  revo- 
ution  first  broke  down  the  barrier; 
and  although  the  office  of  Capitano 
del  Popolo  did  not  continue  perma- 
nent, it  prepared  the  way  for  the  great 
changes  which  the  constitution  after- 
wards sustained.  Here,  in  1339,  Si- 
mone  Boccanegra  was  created  the 
first  Doge  of  Genoa,  amidst  cries  of 
*^  Viva  il popolo!"  marking  the  influ- 
ence by  which  he  had  been  raised.  His 
election  was,  in  fact,  the  crisis  of  an- 
other revolution :  the  government  was 
completely  transferred  from  the  nobles 
to  the  people.  All  traces  of  the  ori- 
ginal building  are  destroyed,  or  con- 
cealed by  recent  adjimcts  and  recon- 
structions. The  roof  is  painted  by  Car- 
loni.  This  Carloni  was  bom  at  Genoa 
in  1594,  and  died  at  an  advanced  age. 
Some  of  the  other  paintings  are — Ber- 
na/rdo  Castello,  the  Saviour  disputing 
in  the  Temple ;  Pomartmcio,  the  Ador- 
ation of  the  Shepherds ;  CasfellOy  Saint 
Catherine  of  Sienna. 

St.  Stefcmo  delta  Portal  in  the  Piazza 
S.  Stefano,  at  the  end  of  the  Strada 


Giulia,  a  very  ancient  edifice ;  the  pre- 
sent building  does  not  date  later  than 
the  13th  century.  The  only  object 
worth  notice  in  the  interior  is  the 
picture,  over  the  high  altar,  of  the 
martyrdom  of  the  patron  Saint,  con- 
sidered by  some  to  be  the  joint  produc- 
tion of  Raphael  and  Oiulio  Romano: 
Raphael  it  is  said  made  the  design  for 
the  whole,  and  finished  the  upper  part, 
and  Giulio  Romano  executed  the  re- 
mainder after  his  death.  Others  at- 
tribute the  whole  to  the  latter.  In 
its  present  position  (it  is  concealed 
by  an  unsightly  tabemade  and  candle- 
sticks) the  unbounded  praise  accorded 
to  this  picture  will  to  many  persons 
appear  extravagant.  It  was  sent  to 
Paris  by  Napoleon,  and  the  head  of 
the  saint  and  other  parts  were  there 
retouched  by  Girodet.  It  was  a  gift  to 
the  G^enoese  republic  by  Leo  X.  The 
fee  demanded  for  showing  it  is  1  fr. 

The  gce&iAlbergo  d^  Poveri  is  to  the 
N.  of  the  city,  just  outside  the  Porta 
Carbonara.  It  was  foimded  in  1564, 
by  Emanuel  Brignole,  and  unites  the 
care  of  the  poor  within  its  walls  to  the 
administration  of  many  charitable  en- 
dowments for  their  benefit.  Thus,  for 
example,  the  girls  who  marry  out  of 
the  hospital  receive  a  decent  dowry. 
The  house  is  very  clean,  and  the  pro- 
portion of  deaths  remarkably  small.  It 
is  a  stately  palace,  extending  above 
560  feet  each  way,  and  enclosing  four 
courts,  each  about  170  feet  square.  The 
ranges  of  buildings,  dividing  the  courts, 
form  a  cross,  in  the  middle  of  which  is 
the  chapel,  or  at  least  the  altar ;  the 
difierent  inmates  occupying  the  arms 
during  the  time  of  public  service.  It 
boasts  a  Piet^  of  Michael  Angelo.  In 
the  chapel  is  also  a  statue  oi  the 
Virgin  ascending  to  heaven,  by  Puget; 
one  of  his  best  works.  This  establish- 
ment will  contain  2200  persons. 

The  Ospedale  di  Pammatone  stands 
on  the  W.  side  of  the  public  gardens 
of  the  Acquaeola.  It  was  originally 
a  private  foimdation  by  Bartolomeo 
del  Bosco,  a  Doctor  of  Laws,  1430; 
and  was  buHt  from  the  designs  of  Au- 


liiViEHA.    Moute  13. — Genoa — HosjpitcxJs — Theatres — Academy.       127 


drea  Orsolini.  It  is  a  large  building, 
and  contains  statues  of  benefactors  nf 
tbe  establishment.  It  has  within  its 
walls,  on  an  average,  1000  patients 
and  3000  foundlings,  and  is  open  to 
the  sick  of  all  nations.  The  Institution 
for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  (Sordi  MuU\ 
founded  by  Ottavio  Assarotti,  a  poor 
monk,  in  1801,  is  celebrated  in  Italy. 

The  hospital  for  the  insane,  or  Segio 
MancicomiOf  situated  outside  of  the 
Porta  Bomana,  is  a  very  extensive 
foundation  recently  erected,  consisting 
of  six  wings  converging  towards  a 
central  edifice ;  it  is  said  to  be  very 
well  conducted,  and  contains  700 
patients. 

In  and  about  Genoa  there  are  as  many 
as  15  Conservatorie,  They  are  aU  in- 
tended for  females,  and  all  are  religious 
foundations,  and  regulated  according 
to  the  monastic  system,  though  the 
inmates  do  not  take  vows.  Some  are 
houses  of  refuge  for  the  unmarried ; 
some  penitentiaries  for  those  who  wish 
to  abandon  their  evil  courses;  some 
are  schools  for  the  higher  branches  of 
education:  some  asylums  for  enils  who 
are  either  orphans  or  the  c4dren  of 
parents  unable  to  maintain  them.  Of 
these,  the  largest  is  that  of  the  Meschine^ 
founded  in  1762  by  Domenico  Fieschi, 
for  orphan  girls,  natives  of  G^enoa,  and 
which  now  contains  about  250  inmates : 
they  are  employed  upon  various  light 
works,  such  as  lace  and  embroidery, 
but  principally  in  the  manufacture  of 
artificial  flowers.  Half  the  profits  be- 
long to  the  workers;  and  with  these 
they  are  often  enabled,  not  only  to 
reUeve  their  relations,  but  even  to 
accumulate  a  small  dowiy.  The  situa- 
tion of  the  house,  to  which  large  gar- 
dens are  annexed,  is  very  beautiful. 
The  whole  establishment  is  conducted 
kindly  and  afiectionately,  under  the 
patronage  of  the  descendants  of  the 
fomily. 

Theatres, — The  Tecdro  Carlo  Felice 
is  the  principal  theatre,  and  is  an  ele* 
gant  structure.  It  was  opened  in  1828, 
and  ranks  the  third  in  size  in  Italy,  the 
Scala  at  Milan  and  the  S.  Carlo  at 
Naples  alone  being  larger.    It  is  open 


for  operas  and  ballets  during  the  car- 
nival and  spring  seasons,  for  the  opera 
buffa  in  the  autumn,  and  for  the  re* 
gular  dtama  in  the  summer  and  the 
early  part  of  December*  The  Teatro 
Sant*  AgosHno  is  open  during  the  car* 
nival  for  the  regular  drama,  the  Teatro 
Colombo  for  Italian  comedy,  and  the 
Teatro  Apollo^  where  a  French  com- 
pany generally  perform  during  the 
winter :  the  two  latter  houses  are  near 
the  Porta  dell'  Arco. 

The  Accademia  lAgustica  delle  Belle 
Arti  was  founded  by  private  munifi- 
cence, having  been  instituted  by  the 
Doria  family.  The  society  consists  of 
protettori,  or  subscribing  patrons,  and 
of  working  academicians.  It  is  situated 
in  a  large  building  in  the  Piazza  di 
Carlo  Fdice,  of  winch  it  forms  one  of 
the  sides,  near  the  theatre,  and  con- 
tains numerous  schools  in  the  difierent 
departments  of  art,  resorted  to  by  a 
large  body  of  pupils ;  it  has  contributed 
in  improving  not  only  the  designs  used 
in  manufactures,  but  the  architecture 
employed  in  the  numerous  recent  build- 
ings erected  throughout  the  city.  At- 
tached to  the  schools  of  painting  is  a 
collection  of  pictures,  mostly  by  emi- 
nent artists  of  the  Genoese  school — An' 
saldo,  the  Piolas,  FiaseHa^  de  FerraHy 
Benedetto  JStrozzi,  JJuca  CamMaso^ 
&c. ;  and  a  large  series  of  casts  from 
the  finest  antique  sculptures.  On  the 
stairs  leading  to  the  Accademia  are  four 
fine  columns  of  Porto  Yenere  marble, 
from  tlie  suppressed  church  of  San 
Domenico. 

The  Public  Library^  on  the  first 
floor  of  the  same  building,  has  been 
formed  out  of  various  collections  be- 
queathed to  the  town  and  to  the  king, 
and  made  over  by  him  to  the  munici- 
pality, who  very  liberally  provide  for 
its  support.  It  contains  nearly  50,000 
vols. ;  and  nowhere  does  there  exist  a 
library  opened  with  such  liberality, — 
in  summer  from  7  a.m:.  to  10  p.m.,  in 
winter  from  8  to  11.  Its  chief  merit 
is  to  contain  the  most  useful  modem 
works.  It  is  much  frequented  in  the 
evenings. 

Palazzo    Ducale.     The  interior   of 


128    Soute  13, — Genoa — Duccd  Palace — Strada  degli  Orefici,    Sect.  IT. 


the  principal  raage  of  the  building, 
which  contained  the  hall  of  the  senate 
and  the  state  apartments,  was  destroyed 
by  fire  in  1777.     The  present  interior 
was   reconstructed  by   Oarloni.     The 
vestibule  is  supported  by  80  columns 
of  white  marble :  a  fine  staircase  leads, 
on  the  rt.  hand,  to  the  apartments  of 
the  goTemor,  on  the  1.  to  the  hall  of 
the  Benate.    The  latter  is  decorated  by 
paintings,  not  of  a  high  order,  repre- 
senting  subjects  connected  with   the 
history  of  Genoa.     Of  these,  the  best 
are  copies  from  pictiures  of  SoUmena, 
that  existed  before  the  fire,  the  depo- 
sition of  the  relics  of  St.  John  the 
Baptist,  and  the  discovery  of  America 
by   Columbus.     There  is  also  a  large 
picture  by  I.  Damd^  representing  the 
Battle  of  Meloria.     The  hall  also  con- 
tained statues  of  the   great   men  of 
C^noa.  These  were  destroyed  by  the  re- 
pubUcans  of  1797  ;  and  upon  occasion 
of  the  fS^te  given  to  Napoleon  as  the 
restorer  of  the  liberties  of  Italy,  their 
places    were    suppUed   by  statues    of 
straw  and    wicker-work,  coated  with 
plaster  of  Paris,  which  still  remain. 
This   building   was   formerly  the   re- 
sidence of  the  Doges  of  the  repubHc, 
who  held  office  for  two  years ;  it  has 
been  recently  made  over  by  the  City 
to    the    G-ovemment.     The    front   is 
now  well  laid   open,  and    the    space 
converted  into  an  open  piazza.      The 
palace  now  contains  the  law-courts,  and 
several  other  offices  connected  with  the 
public  administration.    The  great  dun- 
geon tower,  with  its  grated  windows,  is 
the  only  part  of  the  residence  of  the 
Doges  01  earlier  times  that  now  re- 
mains. 

The  Archiepiscopal  Palace  has  some 
good  frescoes  by  L.  Cambiaso, 

The  garden  of  the  Marquis  Negri 
near  the  Acquasola  is  worth  a  visit.  It 
contains  some  curious  exotic  plants,  and 
commands  a  fine  view  over  the  city. 

In  the  Land  Arsenal,  near  the 
Piazza  d' Acquaverde,  are  many  curious 
objects.  These  were  formerly  deposited 
in  the  Ducal  Palace,  with  others  which 
were  stolen  or  dispersed  in  1797 :  the 
residue  was  here  collected.    A  rostrum 


of  an  ancient  galley,  some  say  Roman, 
others  Carthaginian,  found  in  the  port ; 
but,  though  its  origin  may  be  uncer- 
tain, its  antiquity  and  value  are  un- 
doubted. A  cannon  of  wood  bound 
round  with  iron,  said  to  have  been 
employed  by  the  Yenetians  in  the  de- 
fence of  Chioggia,  when  attacked  by 
the  G^enoese  fleet.  A  good  store  of 
halberts,  partizans,  and  other  weapons, 
many  of  unusual  forms. 

The  Loggia  de^  Banchi  or  Bolsa  (in  j 
the  Piazza  de'  Banchi)  is  an  interesting  ' 
monument  of  the  ancient  commercial 
splendour  of  G^ioa.  It  consists  of  a 
large  hall,  the  sides  of  which  are  sup- 
ported by  arches,  now  glazed  in,  built 
by  Ghtleazzo  Alessi  (1570-1596),  being 
about  110  feet  in  length  and  60  in 
breadth.  The  roof  is  skilfully  con- 
structed, the  tie-beams  being  concealed 
in  the  concave  of  the  ceiling ;  and  the 
quantity  of  wall  upon  which  the  roof 
rests  is  so  small,  that  the  whole  is  con- 
sidered as  a  very  bold  efibrt  in  con- 
struction. This  Loggia  is  now  used 
as  the  exchange,  where  the  merchants 
meet  for  business.  The  fine  statue 
erected  in  it  to  Count  Cavour  is  by  the  | 
celebrated  Swiss  sculptor  Vela.  In 
front  is  the  place  of  meeting  of  the 
com  and  oil  merchants,  a  very,  ani- 
mated scene  diuing  the  hours  of  busi- 
ness at  Genoa. 

Hard  by  is  the  Strada  degli  Orefici 
(Goldsmiths*  Street),  being  filled  with 
the  shops  of  that  trade.  Before  the 
revolution  they  formed  a  guild  or 
company,  possessing  many  privileges 
and  possessions,  all  of  which  are  lost. 
One  relic  they  yet  preserve  —  a  pic- 
ture of  the  Holy  Family^  with  the 
addition  of  St.  Eloy,  the  patron  saint 
of  the  smiths*  craft,  whether  in  gold, 
silver,  or  iron.  It  is  upon  stone,  a 
tablet  framed  and  glazed,  in  the  middle 
of  the  goldsmiths*  street,  and  sur- 
mounted by  a  wrought  canopy.  This 
picture,  attributed  to  PeUegrino  Piola, 
is  of  a  deep  and  harmonious  coloiir, 
and  beautifully  drawn.  It  is  said  that 
PeUegrino  was  a  pupil  of  Castello; 
that  he  was  only  22  years  of  age  when 
he  painted  this  picture,  and  that  it 


HnrifiRA.  Soute  13. — Genoa — £aru!0  di  San  Giorgio. 


129 


excited  so  much  enry  on  the  part  of 
,  the  master,  that  he  caused  his  pupil  to 
I  be  assassinated.  Others  say  that  Pelle- 
grino  was  assassinated  by  G^iovan*  Ba- 
tista Carloni.  Be  this  as  it  may,  two 
things  are  certain — his  violent  death 
at  an  early  age,  and  the  extraordinary 
rarity  and  excellence  of  his  paintings. 
It  is  impossible,  says  Lanzi,  to  define 
the  style  of  the  artist  so  early  cut  off; 
he  was  yet  only  a  student,  and  a  stu- 
dent empl(^ed  in  imitating  the  best 
models,  preferring  those  which  had 
most  grace.  He  tried  several  manners, 
and  worked  in  all  of  them  with  sur- 
passing taste  and  care.  "When  Napo- 
leon was  here,  he  desired  much  to  re- 
move this  picture  to  the  Louvre.  "  We 
cannot  oppose  you  by  force,"  said  the 
goldsmiths,  "but  we  will  never  sur- 
render it ;"  and  accordingly  he  yielded, 
and  the  picture  remains. 

The  goldsmiths  of  G-enoa  excel  in 
a  beautifcd  fine  filigree,  either  of  gold 
or  silver,  which  they  work  into  bunches 
of  flowers,  butterflies,  and  other  ar- 
ticles, principally  designed  for  female 
ornaments.  They  seU  them  by  weight, 
at  a  price  of  about  15  per  cent,  above 
the  value  of  the  metal.  These  orna- 
ments are  very  pretty,  and  are  hardly 
to  be  procured  out  of  Genoa;  but  the 
workmanship  is  scarcely  equal  to  that 
of  Malta,  or  of  Cuttack  in  BengaL 
They  may  be  passed  at  the  French 
custom-house  at  a  small  duty.  Parodi 
in  the  Strada  degli  Orefici,  and  Loleo 
at  the  Albergo  della  Croce  di  Malta, 
can  be  recommended  for  their  excellent 
assortments. 

The  Comperaf  or  Banco  di  San  Giorgio 
(Bank  of  St.  George),  of  which  the  hall 
is  now  degraded  into  the  Long  Room  of 
the  custom-house,  was  the  most  ancient 
establishment  of  this  description  in 
Europe.  It  was  a  combination,  so  to 
speak,  of  the  Bank  of  England  and 
the  East  India  Company,  being  both 
a  banking  and  a  trading  company. 
The  colonies  of  Kaffa  in  the  Cmnea, 
several  ports  in  Asia  Minor,  and 
also  Corsica,  were  under  its  admi- 
nistration, and  the  latter  island  is 
BtHl  studded  with  towers  and  block- 


houses upon  which  the  arms  of  the 
Bank  are  engraved.  The  Bank  was 
managed  with  great  ability  and  in- 
tegrity; and  most  of  the  charitable 
and  pubUc  institutions  had  their  funds 
placed  here  at  interest,  which  was  con- 
sidered, and  justly,  as  a  most  secure 
investment.  The  French  passed  the 
sponge  over  the  accounts,  and  ruined 
the  individuals  and  the  communities. 
The  Bank  of  St.  George  was  founded 
in  1346,  in  consequence  of  the  trouble 
which  the  republic  experienced  from 
the  exiled  nobles  who  had  been  ex- 
pelled from  the  city.  Fortifying 
themselves  at  Monaco,  they  collected 
a  numerous  train  of  others  discon- 
tented and  banished,  having  nothing  to 
lose  and  nothing  to  fear.  They  plun- 
dered the  shores  of  the  repubhc ;  and 
this  marauding  warfare  became  so  pro- 
fitable, that  they  were  enabled  to  fit  up 
a  fleet  of  30  galleys,  with  crews  amount- 
ing to  upwards  of  20,000  men.  The 
republic,  not  having  the  means  of 
meetmg  the  expenses  of  resisting  them, 
negotiated  with  the  richest  merchants 
for  a  loan,  which  was  funded;  that  is 
to  say,  the  revenues  of  the  state  were 
permanently  pledged  for  the  re-pay- 
ment. With  the  money  so  raided 
the  repubhc  fitted  out  a  fleet.  The 
insurgents  abandoned  their  position; 
and  the  result  is  curiously  connected 
with  Enghsh  histoiy.  Many  of  them 
entered  the  service  of  Philippe  de  Va- 
lois ;  and  they  were  the  G-enoese  cross- 
bow men  engaged  in  the  battle  of  Cr^cy, 
whose  rout  so  greatly  contributed 
in  the  accomphshment  of  the  victory 
by  the  EngUsh. 

"Genova  la  Superba"  appears  most  i 
proudly  in  this  old  hall.  AU  around  / 
are  the  statues  of  the  nobles  and  citi- 
zens whose  munificence  and  charities 
are  here  commemorated — the  Spinolas, 
the  Dorias,  Grimaldis,  Fieschis,  and 
others,  whose  names  are  so  familiar  in 
the  aimals  of  the  repubhc.  The  statues 
are  in  two  ranges,  the  uppermost  stand- 
ing, the  lower  sitting,  all  as  large 
as  life ;  most  of  them  are  of  an  earUer 
date  than  the  17th  century,  some  of 
the  15th,  and  a  few  as  late  as  the 

O  3 


130 


Houte  13.— firtfwoa. 


Sect  11. 


18th;  rendering  the  edifice  one  of 
the  finest  monnmental  halls  that  can 
be  unagined.  The  ample,  flowing 
dress  of  the  times  contributes  to  this 
magnificent  effect,  combined  with  the 
truth  and  simplicity  of  the  attitudes. 
Beneath  each  statue  is  a  tablet  or  in- 
scription, recounting  the  actions  of 
those  whom  they  commemorate : — one 
had  founded  an  hospital ;  another  had 
bought  off  a  tax  upon  provisions  which 
pressed  heavily  upon  the  poor ;  another 
had  left  revenues  for  endowing  poor 
maidens.  In  this  hall  is  the  celebrated 
mcdiseval  group,  in  marble,  of  a  griffin 
holding  in  his  claws  an  eagle  and  a 
fox  (the  latter  two  being  allegorical 
representations  of  the  Emperor  Fre- 
deric II.  and  the  citjr  of  Pisa).  The 
inscription,  still  remaining,  is — 

"  Qryphns  ut  has  ang^t. 
Sic  nostes  Genoa  finngit.** 

In  the  smaller  apartments  adjoining 
are  other  statues  of  the  same  de- 
scription, and  some  curious  ancient, 
though  barbarous,  pictures  of  St. 
George.  In  one  room  is  a  Madonna 
by  Domenico  Piola. 

On  the  exterior  of  the  Dogana^ 
fronted  by  three  Grothic  arches,  were 
links  of  the  chains  of  the  Porto 
Pisano,  long  suspended  here  as  tro- 
phies, but  now  restored  to  Pisa  since 
the  union  of  that  city  to  the  same 
constitutional  monarchy.  AH  this 
portion  of  the  city  is  one  continued 
monument  of  the  ancient  Genoese  com- 
merce. The  lofty  houses  are  supported 
by  massive,  crypt -like  arches  and 
vaulted  apartments ;  on  the  other  side 
is  the  rampart  of  the  port. 

Public  Promenades, — The  principal 
is  the  Aequasola,  a  large  esplanade, 
on  the  old  fortifications,  the  favourite 
resort  of  the  Genoese  of  all  classes. 
The  gardens  are  handsomely  planted 
and  laid  out.  On  certain  days  of  the 
week  the  miHtary  bands  play  here. 
The  view  from  the  Acquasola,  over  the 
valley  of  the  Bisagno  and  the  moun- 
tains E.  of  the  city,  is  very  fine.  There 
are  some  handsome  gardens  within  the 
walls, — the  Zerbino,  near  the  Convent 
of  the  Fieschine  j  the  Peschiere,  near 


the  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum ;  and  La 
Scoglietta,  near  the  Bly.  station. 

Monument  to  Columbus. — ^A  hand-  \ 
some  monument  to  the  great  navigator, 
whom  Genoa  claims  as  one  of  her  sons, 
has  been  erected  in  the  Piazza  di  Acqua 
Yerde,  opposite  the  entrance  to  the  B>ly. 
Stat.,  so  as  to  attract  the  first  atten- 
tion of  the  traveller  arriving  from 
beyond  the  Alps  and  Apennines ;  it 
consists  of  a  huge  square  pediment,  at 
the  comers  of  which  are  seated  figures 
of  Geography,  Law,  Justice,  and  Reli- 
gion ;  higher  up  is  a  circular  pedestal 
decorated  with  prows  of  galleys,  and  on 
which  stands  a  marble  group  of  Co- 
lumbus and  an  American  female.  On 
the  pediment  below  are  four  bas-reliefs, 
representing  as  many  events  in  the  life 
of  Colimibus.  When  built  round,  this 
square  wiU  be  very  beautiful ;  at  present 
the  monument  of  Columbus  does  not 
stand  in  the  centre. 

Beyond  the  Bisagno  torrent,  and 
close  to  the  sea,  is  the  Government 
yard,  where  ships  of  war  are  built. 

The  Genoese,  or  Ligurians,  from 
the  time  of  Virgil  to  Dante,  and  since, 
have  been  the  subject  of  vituperation. 

"  Ahi  Genovesi,  uomini  diverai 
D'  oeni  costume,  e  pieni  d'  ogni  magagna ; 
Peiche  non  siete  voi  del  xnondo  sjpeisi  ?" 

Infenuft  xxxiii.  150— 154. 

**  Ah  Genoese,  of  every  grace  devoid  I 
8o  fuU  of  all  malevolence  and  guilej 
Why  are  ye  not  at  one  fell  swoop  destroy'd  ?" 
Whiout's  TranskUim  of  Vante. 

But  those  who  have  resided  here  speak 
well  of  them  now;  and  the  splendid 
memorials  of  the  charity  of  past  gene- 
rations raise  a  strong  presumption  in 
their  fiivour,  and  against  the  poet's 
appreciation  of  their  character. 


Hitzeba. 


JRaiUe  14. — Genoa  to  Sarzana. 


i3i 


ROUTE  14. 

6XNOA   TO  SABZAITA,   BY  I'HB 
BIYIEBA  DI  USVANTB. 


Becco  . 
Kapollo. 
Chiavari 
\  Sestri  . 
Bracco  . 


KIL. 

19 
31 
43 
52 
63 


KIL. 
Mattarana .  75 
Borghetto  .  87 
Spezla  .  .110 
Sarzana.    .  129 


129  ]i:ilomStre8=  80  miles. 

A  Bly.  is  in  progress  from  Genoa  to 
Sarzana^  but  the  only  part  of  it  yet 
opened  is  the  portion  beyond  Spezia ; 
the  remainder  will  scarcely  be  com- 
pleted for  2  yrs.  There  are  post-horse 
stations  on  the  road,  and  a  diligence,  in 
12  hrs.,  arriving  at  Spezia  in  the  evening. 
There  is  also  a  maUepoate  leaving  Ge- 
noa at  1,  and  reaching  Spezia  in  time 
for  the  morning  rly.  trains  to  Pisa, 
Lucca,  Florence,  and  Leghorn. 

The  Vetturini  generally  employ  2 
days,  stopping  for  the  night  at  Sestri, 
arriving  at  Spezia  in  time  for  the  last 
Rly.  train  for  Pisa,  Lucca,  or  Florence, 
at  each  of  which  places  there  are  good 
Inns.  The  usual  charge  for  a  carriage 
with  4  horses  from  G^noa  to  Spezia  is 
from  6  to  8  napoleons. 

This  beautiful  road,  which,  besides 
its  connection  with  the  preceding 
route,  is  the  great  highroad  to  Tus- 
cany from  Turin  and  Milan,  passes 
through  a  laiger  proportion  of  moun- 
tainous scenery  than  that  of  the  Biviera 
di  Ponente,  and  therefore  has  less  of 
a  southern  aspect,  nor  is  it  so  thickly 
studded  with  those  picturesque  towns 
and  villages  which  adorn  the  shore  be- 
tween Kice  and  G«noa ;  but  it  has  the 
same  beauties  of  wide-spreading  views 
over  the  loveliest  land  and  water ;  it  is 
also  finely  indented  by  gulfs  and  bays, 
affording  good  anchorage  for  the  many 
vessels  which  enliven  the  brilliant  sea. 

The  road,  which  is  excellent,  was 
began  by  the  French,  and  completed 
by  the  Sardinian  government.  Be- 
fore it    was    made,    Genoa    was,    in 


great  measure,  deprived  of  direct  com- 
munication with  Tuscany,  which  per- 
haps it  was  neither  the  wish  nor  the 
interest  of  the  earher  governments  to 
encourage.  The  best  stopping-places 
for  persons  travelling  post  by  this 
road  will  be — in  summer,  Ist  day, 
Borghetto,  or,  by  leaving  Genoa  early, 
even  La  Spezia:  in  winter,  Ist  day, 
Sestri ;  2nd  day,  La  Spezia ;  3rd  day, 
Lucca,  Pisa,  or  Florence,  taking  the 
railroad  to  either  of  these  places. 

The  road  begins  to  ascend  soon  after 
quitting  Genoa;  and,  from  the  first 
summit,  the  view  of  the  city  and  the 
white  houses  dotted  around  and  ascend- 
ing the  hill  sides  is  as  lovely  a  sight  as 
can  be  seen.  Hedges  of  the  aloe  mix 
with  vines,  oUves,  and  fig  and  orange 
trees. 

Crossing  the  Bisagno  torrent,  we 
arrive  at  San^  Martiiio  tFAlharo,  fr«m 
where  the  road  descends  and  nms  near 
the  shore.  Tliis  town  may  be  considered 
as  a  suburb  of  Genoa.  The  Colle 
d^Albaro  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
spots.  Here  are  some  magnificent 
villas ;  the  principal  is  the  YiUa  Cam- 
biaso,  built  by  Alessio  (1557),  it  is 
said,  from  the  designs  of  Michael  An- 
gelo.  It  lias  frescoes  by  Taarminot  re- 
presenting the  triumphs  of  Alexander 
Famese,  Prince  of  Parma,  and  two 
hj  Pierino  del  Voffa,  Night  and  Day. 
The  views  from  Albaro,  looking  over 
Ghenoa,  are  particularly  beautiful.  The 
Villa  deU  Paradise  is  in  a  fine  situation. 

Cross  the  Stwrla  torrent  before 
reaching 

Quarto  and  Quinto,  The  names  of 
these  villages,  which  follow  in  succes- 
sion, bespeak  their  Boman  origin, — 
"ad  quartum,"  "ad  quintum:"  they 
were  probably  Boman  stations.  Quinto 
is  also  one  of  the  claimants  for  the 
honour  of  the  birthplace  of  Columbus. 

Nervi;  gay  with  its  bright  painted 
houses.  The  gai'dens  around  are  pecu- 
liarly luxuriant  and  fragrant.  The 
church  of  8arC  6iro  has  much  gUding 
and  some  toleratle  paintings.  An  old 
palace,  now  in  ruins,  with  decaying 
frescoes  on  the  walls,  is  a  picturesque 
object.     There  are   several  handsome 


132 


Eoute  14. — Eecco — Sia,  Margfierita — Rapatlo,        ect.  It. 


villas  here,  that  of  the  Gropallo  family 
in  particular.  A  large  house  near  this 
villa  has  been  fitted  up,  with  the  object 
of  accommodating  persons  seeking  a 
mUd  winter  residence;  the  establish- 
ment is  under  the  superintendence  of 
Dr.  Millingen,  the  English  physician  at 
Genoa,  with  whom  arrangements  can 
be  made  for  living  enpension.  Beyond 
Nervi  is  the  village  of  Bogliase.  The 
village  and  bridge  of  Sori  (a  fine  arch) 
are  passed  about  2  miles  before  arriv- 
ing at 

19  kil.  Mecco,  An  additional  distance 
of  4  kil.  is  paid  on  leaving  and  arriving 
at  Genoa.  (Inn  tolerable.)  Bather  a 
handsome  httle  town.  The  white  houses 
and  the  high  campanile  of  the  church, 
backed  by  the  hilly  promontory  of 
Porto  Fino,  which,  stretching  into  the 
sea,  forms  the  western  shore  of  the  bay 
of  Eapallo,  have  a  charming  efiect. 
Leaving  Becco,  the  road  traverses  Ca- 
mogli,  and  then  ascends  for  about  1 
mile,  at  the  culminating  point  of  which 
it  traverses  the  tunnel  of  La  Buta,  about 
120  yards  in  length,  cut  through  the 
rock.  Here  the  vetturini  stop  to  dine ; 
there  are  three  small  Inns,  the  H6tel 
de  Londres,  the  H6tel  della  Gran 
Bretagna,  and  the  B[6tel  d'ltalie.  The 
descent  from  the  tunnel  to  Bapallo  is 
very  beautiftd,  and,  for  a  short  time, 
chestnuts  take  the  place  of  oHves, 
figs,  and  vines.  The  cHffs,  of  hard 
breccia,  ofier  a  great  number  of  pic- 
turesque points  of  view ;  and  the  short 
trip  by  water  round  the  promontory, 
from  Becco  to  Bapallo,  has  much 
interest,  and  can  be  made  easily  in  a 
summer's  day.  Becco  or  Camogli  will 
be  the  best  place  to  start  from,  and 
boats  may  be  obtained  at  both. 

[At  a  short  distance  from.  Becco  is 
the  httle  active  fishing-town  of  Ca- 
mogli. The  church  is  gaily  decorated 
by  the  piety  of  the  seamen.  3  m. 
farther  S.  is  the  Punta  delle  Chi<ippe^ 
above  which  rises  the  hill  of  the  Tele- 
grafOi  the  highest  point  of  the  pro- 
montory (2000  ft.  above  the  sea).  3 
m.  from  the  Cape  is 

SarC  M'utuosOf  a  monastery  in  a 
very  picturesque  solitary  site,  near  the 


sea,  at  the  opening  of  a  deep  ravine,  and 
at  the  S.  extremity  of  the  promontory. 
Fahns  flourish  amongst  the  surrounding 
rocks ;  and  it  is  supposed  that  they 
were  introduced  at  a  very  early  period 
by  the  monks.  The  church  was  under 
the  special  patronage  of  the  Dorias ; 
and  in  a  species  of  sepulcliral  chapel 
in  the  cloister  are  some  good  Gothic 
tombs  of  that  family.  5  m.  farther  E. 
is  the  extreme  S.E.  headland,  behind 
which,  in  a  small  landlocked  bay,  is  the 
fishing-hamlet  of  Porto  Fino,  which 
gives  its  name  to  the  whole  promon- 
tory ;  and  1  m.  N.  of  which  is 

Cervaray  anciently  Sylvana,  a  de- 
serted convent,  not  far  from  the  shore. 
Here  Francis  I.,  prisoner  after  the 
battle  of  Pavia,  having  been  previ- 
ously brought  to  G^noa,  was  detained 
until  the  arrival  of  the  galleys  which 
conveyed  him  to  Spain. 

Santa  Margherita,  a  pleasing  village 
close  to  the  shore.  The  Genoese  coral 
fishery  is  principally  carried  on  by 
feluccas  fitted  out  in  this  neighbour- 
hood. There  is  a  mule-path  from  Sta. 
Margherita  to  Bapallo.  This  completes 
the  tour  of  the  peninsula.] 

We  now  rejoin  the  post-road. 

SarC  Lorenzo  della  Costa  is  near  the 
descent  of  the  road  aft«r  quitting  the 
tunnel.  The  church  contains  a  folding 
altarpiece,  attributed  to  Luca  <f  Olanda^ 
representing  the  Marriage  of  Cana,  the 
Martyrdom  of  St.  Andrew,  and  the 
raising  of  Lazarus. 

12  kil.  Sapallo.  An  extra  horse 
between  Becco  and  Bapallo,  and  vice 
versd,  all  the  year.  Albergo  della 
Posta,  a  thoroughly  Italian  Inn. 

An  active  and  flourishing  town  of 
9500  Inhab.  It  spreads  beautifully 
along  the  shores  of  the  bay,  set  off 
by  the  churches  and  a  peculiarly 
lofby  and  slender  campanile  of  many 
open  stories.  The  houses  are  chiefly 
on  arcades.  On  the  sea-shore  is  a  pic- 
turesque tower,  similar  to  those  on 
the  Biviera  di  Ponente.  Probably  it 
was  erected  after  the  town  had  been 
plundered  by  the  celebrated  corsair 
Dragutte,  the  scourge  and  terror  of 
Italy  and  Spain,  who,  landing  here  in 


iA. 


ftlVlERA. 


Moute  14. — Chiavari. 


138 


the  night  of  6th  July,  1549,  surprised 
and  sacked  the  town  and  carried  off  a 
great  number  of  captiyes. 

The  principal  church  is  collegiate; 
it  contains  some  curious  inscriptions — 
one  supposed  to  be  a  dedication  of  the 
place  by  the  Emperor  Lewis  II.  in  856. 
Here  are  also  some  paintings,  which 
may  be  looked  at  whilst  we  change 
horses.     Lace  is  manufactured  here. 

Kapallo  is  celebrated  for  a  festiyal  in 
honour  of  the  Madonna,  which  con- 
tinues during  the  first  three  days  of 
July.  The  processions  last  through- 
out the  whole  night,  until  break  of 
day ;  the  illuminations  extend  not  only 
through  the  town,  but  along  the  coast 
for  an  extent  of  3  or  4  miles,  the  lamps 
being  hung  upon  stakes  fixed  into  the 
sands. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Bapallo  is  the 
chapel  of  Montalegro,  at  the  dis- 
tance of  about  an  hour's  walk :  most 
pleasantly  situated  upon  a  hUl,  sur- 
rounded by  fine  moimtain  scenery. 
It  waa  founded  about  1557,  in  honour 
of  a  painting  cast  on  shore  from  a 
shipwrecked  vessel,  and  to  which  the 
superstition  of  the  Kappallese  at- 
tributed miraculous  powers.  The  pic- 
ture is  of  Greek  workmanship,  and 
execrable  as  a  work  of  art. 

The  road  from  Bapallo  to  Ohiavari 
is  exceedingly  varied ;  sometimes  you 
mount  long  rocky  heights,  covered  with 
arbutus  and  frequent  stone  pines. 
Many  apparently  good  and  picturesque 
houses  are  scattered  high  up  on  the 
Mil-sides,  where  there  is  no  visible  road 
to  them  from  below.  Churches,  with 
white  and  often  elegant  campaniles,  are 
frequent  all  along  the  road.  Towards 
the  evening  these  numerous  churches 
add  perhaps  more  to  the  interest  of  the 
landscape  than  at  any  other  time,  the 
bells  sounding  and  the  light  streaming 
through  the  windows.  Sometimes  we 
are  many  hundred  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  Mediterranean,  looking  down 
upon  its  blue  waters ;  sometimes  you 
pass  vast  surfaces  of  rock  sloping  down 
to  the  sea  with  as  even  a  surface  as  a 
rev^tement  wall ;  and  sometimes,  as  at 
Bapallo,  you  are  on  the  very  level  of  the 


shore.  There  are  two  short  tunnels  or 
galleries  near  the  top  of  the  ascent 
between  Bapallo  and  Uhiavari.  In  one 
of  the  beautifrd  nooks  Ues  a  most  pic- 
turesquely situated  Tillage,  with  its  white 
tall  houses  in  the  midst  of  olive  groves. 
About  a  mile  before  reaching  Cliiavari 
the  road  descends  into  the  plain  extend- 
ing to  Sestri,  and  in  the  midst  of  which 
is  situated 

12kil.  Chiavari.  An  extra  horse  be- 
tween Bapallo  and  Chiavari,  both  ways, 
all  the  year.  (Inns:  La  Fosta;  dili- 
gences to  Genoa  run  from  this  house 
once  a  day :  the  other  inn.  La  Fenice, 
is  good.)  The  chief  city  of  the  pro- 
vince, with  more  than  10,000  Inhab., 
situated  in  the  centre  of  the  bay.  It  is 
one  of  the  most  considerable  towns  of 
the  ancient  G^enoese  territory.  It  has 
the  aspect  of  an  old  Italian  town ;  the 
houses  generally  are  built  on  open 
arcades  which  skirt  the  narrow  streets ; 
the  arches  are  pointed  and  circular, 
and  with  capitals  which  would  puzzle 
an  architect  by  their  similarity  to  our 
early  Norman,  but  which  are  probably 
not  older  than  the  13th  centy.  Ther© 
are  several  fine  churches.  In  that  of 
San^  Francesco  is  a  painting  by  Fa- 
sallo,  although  attributed  to  Velasquez, 
of  a  mfracle  wrought  for  the  patron 
saint — an  angel,  at  his  prayer,  causing 
water  to  flow  from  the  rock.  This  pic- 
ture was  removed  by  the  French  to 
the  Louvre.  Another  picture  with  St. 
Francis  in  the  centre,  and  the  history  of 
his  life  in  small  compartments  around, 
is  curious. 

The  Madonna  deV  Orto^  the  princi- 
pal church,  is  annexed  to  the  ecclesias- 
tical seminary.  The  cupola  was  shat- 
tered by  lightning  some  years  ago. 
The  front  is  unfinished;  the  portico 
will  be  upon  a  magnificent  scale,  with 
colimms  six  feet  in  diameter.  It  is 
said  that  the  work  wiU  cost  700,000 
francs.  Old  and  picturesque  towers  are 
dotted  about  the  town.  The  largest,  a 
castle  in  fact,  is  now  used  for  the  offices 
of  the  municipality! 

There  is  the  same  luxuriant  vegeta- 
tion at  Chiavari  as  on  other  parts  of 
this   coast.      The  aloe,  in  particular. 


134 


JKoute  14. — Sestri — Bracco* 


Sect.  11. 


grows  luxtuiantly,  even  in  the  very  sand 
of  the  shores  ;  and  in  some  points  of 
view,  when  they  constitute  the  fore- 
ground, and  the  fantastic,  mosque-hke 
cupola«  of  the  churches  are  seen  in  the 
distance,  the  scene  assumes  ahnost  an 
oriental  character.  This  place  is  noted 
for  the  manufacture  of  furniture,  and 
especially  of  handsome  and  very  light 
chai)*s,  made  chiefly  of  cherry-wood, 
costing  10  or  12  fi*.  apiece. 

2  m.  beyond  Chiayari  runs  the  riyer 
LavagnarOi  or  '*  Mume  di  Lavagna^* 
the  JSfUella  of  ancient  geographers. 

The  Layagnaro  winds  amongst  agree- 
able groyes,  and  the  walks  along  its 
banks  are  pleasing.  The  yines  throw 
their  graceful  festoons  oyer  poplars 
and  mulberries.  Along  these  banks  is 
the  path  leading  to  the  slate-quarries 
of  Layagna,  which  are  worthy  of  a 
yisit.  It  passes  near  to  the  Ch.  of 
S€m  SalvatorCf  founded  by  Innocent 
IV.  (1243-1254),  and  completed  by 
Adrian  V.  Ascending  further,  you 
reach  the  slate-quarries.  The  quarries 
from  which  the  slate  is  extracted, 
though  not  yery  picturesque  in  form 
or  colour,  are  striking  from  their  ex- 
tent. The  laminated  structure  of  the 
rock  enables  the  workmen  in  some  of 
these  cayems  to  dispense  with  the 
pillars  usually  required  in  extensiye 
excavations.  The  slate  is  of  a  good 
quaUty,  and,  if  the  workmen  chose, 
slabs  might  be  split  of  10  or  12  ft.  in 
length;  but,  for  convenience  of  car- 
riage, they  split  them  in  regular  sizes, 
the  largest  being  about  3  ft.  by  4.  An 
argument  for  the  antiquity  of  the  em- 
ployment of  this  material  is  found  in 
the  name  of  the  Tegullii,  the  Ligurian 
tribe  who  inhabit^  this  part  of  the 
coast  previous  to  the  Koman  conquest. 
There  are  other  quarries  between  La- 
yagna and  Sestri,  but  nearer  the  sea- 
shore. 

We  now  resume  the  main  road  to 
Layagna,  a  thriving  and  cheerfrd  town, 
with  about  6500  Inhab.  GThe  road  is 
bordered  by  the  slate  rock.  A  strange 
red  palace,  with  bartizan  towers,  is 
here  a  conspicuous  object.  The  pHn- 
cipal    ehwch   is    amongst   the   most 


I  splendid  on  the  Hivieitt  di  Levante. 
fVom  the  slates  being  found  about  the 
town,  they  are  called  in  Italian  pietre  di 
Lavagnaf  or  simply  Lavagne.  From 
this  place  the  celebrated  &jmij  of  the 
FLeschi  derived  their  title  of  Count. 

Sestri  di  Levcmte,  a  town  on  an  isth- 
mus at  the  foot  of  a  wooded  pro- 
montory. {Inns:  H6tel  de  TEurope, 
good:  Albergo  d'Inghilterra.)  Sestri 
has  the  sea  on  either  side,  and  the  pro- 
montory is  supposed  to  have  been  onco 
an  island.  In  the  church  of  San  Pietro 
is  a  painting  attributed  to  Fierino  del 
Vaga,  a  Holy  Family.  It  is  Baf- 
faelesque  in  style.  A  more  unques- 
tionable specimen  of  a  good  artist  is 
the  Descent  of  the  Holy  Ghost,  by 
Masella,  in  the  church  of  the  Nativity. 
The  surrounding  scenes  are  full  of 
varied  beauties.  At  the  H6tel  de 
I'Europe  are  machines  for  sea-bathing, 
for  wluch  Sestri  is  well  suited,  from 
its  excellent  beadi  and  its  delightful 
situation.  Travelling  by  vetturino, 
sleep  the  first  night  at  Sestri,  and 
the  next  at  Spezia :  but  although  the 
former  place  is  not  a  post-station,  the 
hotel-keeper  will  make  arrangements 
with  the  neighbouring  postmasters  for 
travellers  stopping  here,  without  any 
additional  charge. 

Soon  after  leaving  Sestri  the  road, 
which  runs  inland,  conmienoes  to 
ascend,  the  island-like  promontory 
being  left  on  the  rt.  hand.  It  first 
winds  through  hUls  of  olive-trees, 
and  in  the  clefts  of  which  the  myrtle 
grows  wUd.  Hence  many  headlands 
stretching  into  the  sea,  and  whit-e  houses 
and  churches  dotting  thehiUs,  are  seen. 
The  pass  of  Bracoo,  however,  leads 
above  fig-trees  and  vines,  and  even 
above  chestnuts  and  fir-trees ;  and  the 
finely  made  road,  winding  amongst 
summits  of  rocks  scantily  covered  with 
grass,  continues  to  ascend  to 

20  kil.  Bracco,  (From  Chiavari  to 
Bracco  an  extra  horse  all  the  year.) 
The  post-house  (1350  ft.  above  the  sea) 
is  placed  in  a  comparatively  fertile 
nook,  screened  by  still  higher  sum- 
mits, and  looking  down  a  long  green 
vista  on  the  blue  sea  far  below.    The 


Riviera. 


JR<mte  14. — Matarana — L&oanto, 


135 


view  is  exceedingly  fine,  embmcing  the 
bay  of  Moneglia,  Sestn,  and  its  hi^h 
promontory,  and  the  Bay  of  Rapallo, 
with  the  headland  of  Porto  Fino  be- 
yond. The  ascent  stiU  continues  by  a 
good  and  well-traced  road  for  3  or  4 
m.  beyond  the  Fo8t*house  of  Bracco, 
nntil  it  attains  an  eleyation  of  about 
2100  ft.  aboye  the  sea,  at  the  Col  or 
Pass  of  Yelya:  here  all  cultiyation 
neady  ceases ;  the  yiews  both  towards 
the  sea  and  inland  are  yery  fine  £rom 
this  eleyation ;  a  well-managed  descent 
leads  from  the  Pass  to  Matarana. 

[The  geologist  will  find  much  to  in- 
terest him  in  this  part  of  his  journey, 
between  Sestri  and  the  Velya  Pass, 
where  he  will  be  able  to  examine  one 
of  the  finest  eruptions  of  serpentine  in 
Italy.  On  the  ascent  the  serpentine 
may  be  seen  piercing  through  the  beds 
of  calcareous  slate,  of  the  age  of  our 
British  chalk.  Some  good  sections  may 
be  obseryed  near  the  pass :  in  the  cut- 
tings made  for  the  post-road  the  ser- 
pentine and  diallage  rocks  will  be  seen 
not  only  forming  yeins  or  dykes  in  the 
limestone,  but  in  each  other :  the 
coimtry  E.  of  the  Velya  Pass  is  cut 
into  deep  rayines,  and  whereyer  the 
serpentine  shows  itself  it  is  character- 
ized by  the  bareness  and  desolation  so 
characteristic  of  this  rock  in  eyery  part 
of  the  world.] 

12  kil.  Maia/raam  is  a  poor  yillage, 
1600  ft.  aboye  the  sea.  (From  Bracco 
to  Matarana  an  extra  horse  all  the 
year.)  The  women  here  wear  their 
hair  in  nets,  hanging  on  their  backs, 
and  often  a  folded  cloth  on  their 
heads,  which  at  Spezia  is  super- 
seded by  a  little  straw  hat,  placed  on 
the  top  of  the  head,  and  only  used  as  an 
ornament.  The  road  winds  along  the 
steep  sides  of  the  yall^  on  descending 
from  Matarana,  the  hills  around  beiug 
thinly  clad  with  chestnut-trees;  a 
low  pass  near  the  yillage  of  Beruyiana 
(where  there  is  an  interesting  con- 
tact of  the  serpentine  and  secondary 
strata)  leads  into  the  rayine,  near  which, 
at  its  junction  with  the  Yara,is  situated 
the  yillage  of  Borghetto. 

12  kil.  Borghetto   (between  Mata- 


rana and  Borghetto  an  eitifA  horse 
both  ways  all  the  year).  There  is  a  fair 
Inn  (Hotel  de  TEurope)  at  the  neigh- 
bouring yillage  of  Pogliano,  which  the 
yetturini  make  their  dining-station. 

The  road  hence  lies  for  a  time  near 
the  bed  of  the  Y ara,  a  tributary  of  the 
Magra,  and,  after  ascending  the  Becco 
torrent  to  San  Benedetto,  or  La  Foce 
di  Spezia,  a  long  descent,  during  which 
the  trayeller  wiU.  enjoy  many  beautiful 
peeps  oyer  the  subjacent  bay  and  the 
distant  mountains  of  Oarara,  leads  to 

23  kil.  La  Spezia,  (Between  Bor- 
ghetto and  La  Spezia  an  extra  horse 
both  ways  all  the  year.) 

[The  coast-road  from  Sestri  to  La 
Spezia  possesses  equal  interest,  but  is  a 
mere  mule-path  $  indeed  the  principal 
means  of  communication  between  the 
different  places  is  by  sea.  The  rly.  will 
nearly  follow  the  coast-line  from  Sestri. 

Moneglia,  a  town  of  about  2000 
Inhab.,  with  remains  of  its  medieeyal 
fortifications  and  battlemented  wall  on 
the  hill  to  the  W.  Farther  on  are  the 
towns  of  Deiva,  Framttra,  and  BoTia- 
sola, 

Levanto,  a  large  but  dirty  town 
of  4600  Inhab.,  surrounded  by  oyer- 
hauging  hills.  To  reach  it  in  any  car- 
riage you  must  go  through  Bracco.  A 
road  strikes  off  to  the  rt.  from  the  post- 
road  to  Spezia  at  La  Ba/racca,  the 
highest  point  of  the  moimtain,  half  way 
between  Bracco  and  Matarana.  In  the 
ch.  of  the  Minor  Friars  is  a  painting 
attributed  to  Andrea  del  Oastagno, 
one  of  the  first  who  practised  oil-paint- 
ing in  Italy.  The  subject  is  St.  George 
and  the  Dragon,  and  the  action  is  thiit 
for  which  Pistrucci  was  so  much  criti- 
cised in  his  design  on  the  soyereigns  of 
Geo.  III.  The  spear  is  broken,  and 
St.  G^rge  is  despatching  the  monster 
with  his  sword.  The  picture  was  car- 
ried off  by  the  French,  and  the  Louyre 
numbering  is  yet  upon  the  frame.  The 
principal  church,  which  was  conse- 
crat'Cd  in  1463,  is  after  the  model  of 
the  cathedral  of  G^noa;  and  is  stiU 
a  fine  building,  though  sadly  mo- 
demised.  Seyeral  of  the  houses  bear 
marks  of  antiquity.     A  small  district 


1S6 


Rotde  14. — Mbnterosso — Gvtf  of  Spezia,  Sect.  Il, 


below  the  headlands  of  Mescolo  and 
Montenero,  belonging  to  five  villages  or 
communities,  Monte  Bosso,  Yemazza, 
Comiglia,  Manarola,  and  Bio  Mag- 
giore,  known  by  the  collective  name 
of  the  Cinque  Terre,  is  remarkable 
for  the  beauty  of  the  scenery  and  the 
primitive  simplicity  (at  least  in  out- 
ward  appearance)  of  its  inhabitants. 
Much  wine  is  grown  here,  the  vine- 
yards in  some  places  overhanging  the 
sea.  Tlie  "vino  amabile"  of  this 
district  had  anciently  a  very  high 
character.  From  Vemazza  came  the 
VertuM^cia,  quoted  by  Boccaccio  and 
Sacchetti  as  the  very  paragon  of  good 
liquor.  The  present  growth,  however, 
seems  to  have  declined  in  quality. 
Oranges  and  lemons  grow  here  in  great 
perfection ;  and  the  fan-palm  and  the 
cactus  opuntia  flourish  with  tropical 
luxuriance. 

Monterosso.  The  church,  built  in 
1307,  is  also  after  the  Genoese  model. 
Near  Monterosso  is  the  sanctuary  of 
the  Madonna  di  Soviore.  The  rock  upon 
which  it  stands  commands  a  most 
extensive  prospect,  reaching  to  the 
island  of  Corsica.  The  annual  feast  of 
the  Virgin,  held  on  the  15th  and  16th 
of  August,  is  attended  by  great  num- 
bers of  countiy  people  from  the  ad- 
joining ports.  The  coast  between  the 
Capes  of  Monterosso  and  Porto  Venere 
is  extremely  bold  and  arid,  without 
any  place  of  importance.] 

Genoa  to  Spezia  hy  Sea. — ^Leaving 
Genoa,  the  steamer  runs  along  the  coast, 
passing  successively  before  S.  Martino 
d'  Albaro,  Quarto,  Quinto,  and  Nervi, 
almost  touching  the  extreme  point  of 
the  promontory  of  Porto  Pino,  from 
here  crossing  the  wide  bay  of  Bapallo 
and  Ohiavari,  but  at  a  considerable  dis- 
tance from  the  shore,  to  the  head-land 
of  Sestri,  from  which  running  close 
in  to  the  coast,  passing  before  Moneglia, 
a  very  picturesque  place  as  seen  from 
seaward,  and  the  towns  constituting  the 
Cinque  Terre,  to  the  entrance  of  the 
Gulf  of  Spezia  j  stopping  only  to  land 
and  take  in  passengers  at  Levanto, 
beyond  which  we  cross  the  opening  of 


the  valley  of  Monte  Bossi,  and  then 
close  to  the  Cape  of  Porto  Venere,  be- 
tween which  and  the  island  of  Palmaria 
is  one  of  the  principal  entrances  to  the 
gulf;  coasting  its  "W.  side  for  some 
miles  as  far  as  the  anchorage-grouud, 
at  some  distance  from  the  landing- 
place.  "  Travellers  have  been  hitherto 
exposed  in  coming  from  G^noa  to  much 
annoyance  from  the  custom-house  offi- 
cials here,  who  insist  on  overhauling 
their  luggage,  as  if  arriving  from  a 
foreign  country,  and  attended  with 
much  inconvenience,  as  passengers 
often  arrive  by  night,  and  as  there  is 
no  place  under  cover  where  this  unne- 
cessary operation  can  be  gone  through, 
and  with  no  small  degree  of  inciviUty 
from  the  officers,  such  as  I  have  not 
experienced  elsewhere  in  Italy  during 
an  experience  bordering  on  half  a 
century."— J:  B.  P.,  Nov,  1864. 


Oulf  of  Spezia.  By  the  ancients 
the  Gulf  of  Spezia  was  known  as  the 
Gulf  of  Luna.  Its  situation  is  accu- 
rately described  by  Strabo  as  a  geo- 
grapher, and  its  climate  by  Persius, 
who  found  a  retreat  on  its  shores. 

**  Mihi  nunc  Ugnu  on 
Intepet,  hybematque  meum  mare ;  qua  lata* 

ingens 
Dant  tcopuli,  et  multa  littns  se  valle  receptat. 
Lunai  wrtum  est  operee  cognoKere^  civet. 
Cor  juDet  hoc  Enni,  postquam  desteituit  eoe 
Msonides  Quintns  pavone  ex  Pythagnreo." 

Persivs',  xi, 
"To  me,  whilst  tempests  howl  and  billowa  nae, 
Liearia'a  coast  a  warm  retreat  supplies ; 
Where  the  huflre  cliffs  an  ample  front  display. 
And,  deep  witnin,  recedes  the  sheltering  bay. 
The  port  of  Luna,  friends t  is  xvjrth  your  noie. 
Thus  in  his  sober  moments  Ennius  wrote. 
When,  all  his  dreams  of  transmigration  past. 
He  found  himself  plain  Quintus  at  the  last." 

Not  less  remarkable  for  its  beauty 
than  its  security  is  this  gulf,  capable 
of  containing  all  the  fleets  of  Europe, 
and  possessing  from  nature  more  ad- 
vantages than  the  art  of  man  could 
possibly  bestow.  Hence  Napoleon,  in 
the  triumphant  stage  of  his  career,  in- 
tended to  render  it  the  naval  station 
of  liis  empire  in  the  Mediterranean. 
The  plan,  it  is  said,  was  frustrated  by 


RiyiEiu. 


EoiUe  14.''^Spezia — Neighbourhood, 


137 


the  intrigues  of  the  French  minifltiy, 
jealous  of  the  injury  wliich  would  have 
resulted  to  Toulon.  The  Italian  go- 
yemment  has  undertaken  very  extensive 
works  in  the  shape  of  docks,  building- 
slips,  &c.,  in  order  to  remove  the  Nayal 
Arsenal  from  Genoa  to  La  Spezia,  in 
order  to  increase  the  accommodation  for 
the  rapidly  increasing  trade  and  ship- 
pmg  at  the  former  place. 


La  Spezia.  Inns  (ask  here  for  the  wine 
called    vino    rinforzato    deUe    Cinque 
Terre) :  Hdtel  de  la  Yille  de  Milan, 
new  and  reiy  clean,  with  a  fine  view 
over  the  gulf;   Croce  di  Malta,  very 
fair,  on  the  shore. — Of  late  years.  La 
Spezia    having    become    a    much-fre- 
.  quented    watering-place,   the   bathing 
being  excellent,  the  inns  and  lodging- 
houses  are  greatly  improved.    Families 
coming  here  for  the  bathing  season  may 
make  arrangements  on  equitable  terms 
for  board  and  lodging  at  the  principal 
hotels  ;   the  charges  at  the  Odessa,  one 
of  the  best  and  most  convenient  for 
bathing,  being  7  or  8  francs  a-day  en 
pension^  everything    included.      Bed- 
room, 2  to  3  fr.;  table-d'hdte,  3'50; 
break&st  with  eggs,  1*50.   The  bathing 
season  commences  early  in  June.  Spezia 
has  about  10,000  Inhab.,  and  is  situated 
in  the  deepest  part  of  its  bay,  formed  by 
the  branches  of  the  Apennines,  advan- 
cing into  the  sea.    There  is  some  com- 
merce in  wine,  and  oil,  which  is  pro- 
duced abundantly  from  the  olive-clad 
hills   around;   also  in  thick  slabs  for 
paving-stones,    like    those    of  Genoa. 
Oranges  and  lemons  are  exported  to  the 
ports  of  the  Black  Sea.    Steamers  ply 
daily  between  Spezia  and  G^oa,  em- 
ploying about  6  hours,  and  starting  in 
the  evening.    There  is  a  British  Vice- 
Consul,  Mr.  Lever,  at  Spezia. 

The  Chinrch  of  England  service  is 
celebrated  every  Sunday  at  11,  in  a 
large  room  at  the  H6tel  d' Odessa. 

To  those  who  are  inclined  to  boat- 
ing amusement  at  Spezia,  the  brothers 
Moscova  can  be  recommended  as  boat- 


men.    They  speak  good  Italian,  and 
are  intelligent  and  civil  fellows. 

All  around  Spezia  the  coxmtry  is 
beautiful.     It  is  studded  with  villas, 
each    in    its    own   thicket    of    luxu- 
riant foliage,  intermingled   with    the 
olive  and  the  vine.    The  town  has  not 
many  prominent  edifices.    An  ancient 
castle    or     tower,    upon    which    the 
"  biscia,"   or  viper,  of  the  Viscontis 
is  yet  to  be  seen,  and  a  round  cita- 
del built    by  the  Genoese,  are  con- 
spicuous  objects.      The    church   has 
nothing   remarkable.     Whatever    im- 
portance is  possessed  by  Spezia  results 
from  the  Genoese,  who  acquired  it  in 
1276  by  the  then  not  unusual  means 
of  purchase  from  Nicolo  de*  Fieschi, 
Count  of  Lavagna.    At  a  short  dis- 
tance from   the   shore,    to  the   S.  of 
Spezia,  the  water  of  the  gulf  offers 
the  remarkable  phenomenon  called  the 
PoUa,    resulting    from    the    gush    of 
an    abundant     submarine    freshwater 
spring,  in  reality  a  natural  artesian 
well  on  a  gigantic  scale.     It  occupies  a 
circular  space  25  ft.  in  circumference, 
and  sometimes  rises  above  the  adjoining 
sea-level.   On  the  surfieK^e,  at  least,  it  is 
however  not  sufficiently  fresh  to  be 
drinkable.     Various  contrivances  have 
been    suggested    for    conducting    the 
water  to  the  shore,  or  otherwise  ena- 
bling vessels  to  fill  their  casks. 

Neighbourhood  of  Spezia.  —  The 
beautiful  scenery  of  the  gulf  of  Spezia 
can  be  best  seen  by  coasting  along  its 
shores  in  a  boat.  The  road  on  the 
western  side  is  very  good,  and  affords 
a  beautiful  drive  as  fkr  as  Porto 
Venere. 

There  are  eight  coves  on  the  western 
side  of  the  ^f.  Beginning  at  the 
northern  end  near  la  Spezia,  and  pro- 
ceeding along  the  shore  to  the  south- 
ward, they  occur  in  the  following  order : 
— 1.  That  below  the  village  of  Marolla : 
2.  Casa  di  Mare,  in  the  mouth  of  which 
rises  the  Polla  spring  :  3.  Fezzano :  4. 
Fanigaglia,  where  Napoleon  wished  to 
make  ms  dockyard:  6.  Delle  Grazie; 
6.  Varignano,  where  are,  the  quaran- 
tine ground  for  vessels  arriving  at 
G^oa^  an  extensive  lazaretto,  and  for- 


138 


Eoute  14. — Pcdmaria — Lerici, 


Sect  11. 


tifications:  7.  La  Oastagna:  8.  Porto 
VenerCy  2200  Inhab.,  at  the  extremify 
of  the  S.W.  promontory  of  the  gulf 
of  Spezia,  one  of  the  most  picturesque 
places  on  the  coast.  The  temple  of 
Venus,  from  which  this  town  is  sup- 
posed  to  derive  its  name,  may,  as 
antiquaries  suppose,  be  traced  in  the 
dilapidated  Gk>thic  church  of  San 
Pietro,  which  boldly  overlooks  the  sea, 
and  from  which  there  is  a  magnificent 
view.  Another  church  worth  notice  is 
that  of  San  Lorenzo.  The  marble  of  the 
rock  upon  which  Porto  Venere  stands, 
black,  with  gold-coloured  veins,  is  ex- 
ceedingly beautiful.  The  G^enoe8e  ac- 
quired Porto  Venere  in  the  year  1113, 
and  encircled  it  with  walls  and  towers, 
of  which  some  portions  remam.  Four 
of  the  then  most  illustrious  famiUes  of 
Qenoa, — De'  Negri,  G-iustiniani,  Dema- 
rini,  and  De*  Fomari — were  sent  to 
rule  the  colony;  and  it  is  probable 
that  they  were  accompanied  by  others 
of  inferior  rank,  the  dialect  of  the 
inhabitants  being  still  pure  Genoese, 
whilst  in  the  vicinity  another  dialect  is 
in  use. 

Immediately  opposite  to  Porto  Ve- 
nere is  the  island  of  Palmaria,  a  nule 
across,  and  S.  of  it  the  two  still 
smaller  ones  of  Tino  and  Tinetto.  In 
it  are  quarries  of  one  of  the  most  highly 
esteemed  varieties  of  the  Genoese 
marbles,  called  Portory  which  has  bril- 
liant yellow  veins  on  a  deep  black 
ground,  like  that  of  Porto  Venere. 
Louis  XIV.  caused  a  great  deal  of  it 
to  be  worked  for  the  decoration  of 
Versailles.  The  beds  dip  about  eight 
degrees  to  the  N.,  or  a  little  to  the  E. 
of  N.  The  island  commands  fine  views 
of  the  gulf  of  Spezia. 

Palmaria  contains  but  two  houses 
properly  so  called,  which  for  several 
years  have  been  tenanted  by  a  Mr. 
Coppond  of  Nice,  and  an  Englishman 
called  Smith.  There  is  a  large  circular 
fortress  on  the  island.  Upon  Tino  is 
a  lighthouse,  the  persons  having  the 
care  of  it  being  the  only  inhabitants  of 
the  island. 

On  the  eastern  side  of  the  gulf  is 
Lerici^  anciently  belonging  to  the  Pi- 


sans,  who  fortified  it  against  their 
rivab  both  of  Lucca  lind  of  Genoa. 
Upon  the  principal  gateway  an  inscrip- 
tion was  affixed,  remarkable  as  being 
one  of  the  earliest  exailiples  known  ot 
the  lapidary  application  of  the  *'  lingua 
volgare."  It  was  to  the  following 
effect:— 

**  Scopa  boca  al  Zenoese, 
Crepacuore  al  Porto  Venerese, 
Streppa  borsello  al  Lucchew." 

The  wit,  if  it  can  be  so  called,  is  clumsy 
enough ;  but  it  produced  the  effect  of 
lumoying  those  against  whom  it  was 
directed ;  uid  when  the  Genoese  won 
Lerici  in  1256,  they  carried  off  the 
inscription  in  triumph;  but  this  was 
not  enough:  they  repHed  in  their 
turn  by  some  strange  rhyming  Leo- 
nines  of  rather  a  higher  tone,  which 
are  yet  existing  upon  one  of  the  towers 
of  the  castle.  This  castle  is  pictu- 
resquely situated  on  an  advancing 
point,  which,  sheltering  the  little  cove 
behind  it,  forms  the  harbour.  It  was 
at  Lerici  that  Andrea  Doria  transferred 
his  services  from  Francb  I.  to  Charles 
v.,  and  thus  gave  that  preponder- 
ance to  the  influence  of  the  house  of 
Austria  in  Italy  which  has  affected 
the  political  situation  of  the  country 
up  to  the  present  time.  Lerici  is  a 
very  busy  little  town,  offering  in  this 
respect  a  contrast  with  the  stQlness  of 
Spezia,  nLOst  of  its  inhabitants  being 
engaged  in  shipbuilding;  it  is  now 
only  second  to  Varazze  on  the  Ligu- 
rian  coast  for  the  building  of  merchant 
vessels.  Near  Lerici  are  extensive  lead- 
works  belonging  to  an  English  Com- 
pany, the  ores  being  brought  from  Sar- 
dinia ;  and  farther  north,  the  building- 
slips  of  the  Boyal  Navy,  at  San  Barto- 
lommeo.  The  terrors  of  the  old  corm'c^ 
roads  from  Lerici  to  Turbia  are  alluded 
to  by  Dante  in  his  *  Puigatorio,'  when, 
speaking  of  the  difficulty  of  ascending 
the  rook,  he  says, 

«  Tra  Lerici  e  Turbia  la  pia  dlserta 
Ia  piii  romita  via  h  una  scala 
Verso  di  quella,  agevole  e  aperta.* 

There  is  a  good  caniage-road  connect- 
ing Lerici  with  that  leading  from  la 


ErVlERA. 


Eoute  14. — The  Magra — Sarzana, 


139 


SpeziA  and  Sarzana,  and  which  faUs 
into  it  near  the  ferry  over  the  Magra. 

The  extreme  S.E.  point  of  this  beau- 
tiful gulf  is  Funta  Bianca,  or  White 
Cape,  being  formed  of  white  marble. 
A  little  withia  it  is  the  Funta  del  Corvo 
or  Cape  Crow,  although  one  side  of  it 
is  white,  being  formed  of  the  same  lime- 
stone. The  entrance  to  the  gulf  is 
guarded  by  forts,  one  upon  the  Funta 
di  Santa  Teresa,  N.W.  of  Lerici,  and 
three  on  the  W.  side — ^the  batteries  of 
Palmaria,  Fessino,  and  Santa  Maria, 
near  the  Lazzaretto.  A  very  beautiful 
«hart  of  this  great  haven  has  been 
published  by  the  French  Dep6t  de  la 
Marine,  and  a  Geological  Map  on  a  large 
scale  by  Frofessor  Capellini,  of  Bologna, 
a  native  of  Spezia. 

The  Ligunan  commentators  imani- 
mously  maintain  that  the  well-known 
description  in  Virgil  of  the  gulf  in 
which  ^neas  took  refuge  after  the 
storm  was  suggested  by  the  gulf  of 
Spezia.  But  that  description  is  closely 
imitated  from  the  Odyssey,  and  ex- 
cepting the  island,  which  Yirgil  has 
added,  the  gulf  of  Spezia  resembles 
Homer's  harbour  quite  as  much  as 
Virgil's.  The  two  passages  are  ^n.  i. 
159-169,  and  Odyss^,  N.  96-112. 

The  carriage-road  and  rly.  from  Spe- 
zia run  along  a  rising  ground  at  the 
head  of  the  bay,  ascending  gradually  for 
about  500  feet  the  ridge  of  lulls  that 
separates  it  from  the  valley  of  the  Ma- 
gi^ and  descending  to  the  river  near 
the  village  of  Vezzano,  which  it  follows, 
on  the  rt.  bank,  to  the  bridge.  The 
rly.  on  descending  from  the  summit- 
level  passes  through  two  timnels,  the 
last  before  emerging  on  the  Magra, 
which  it  crosses  on  the  same  bridge  as 
the  carriage-road,  a  very  handsome 
construction  of  12  arches,  about  3  m. 
from  the  sea,  and  2  before  reaching  the 
station  at  Sarzana,  which  is  close  to 
the  town.  A  good  carriage-road  from 
the  bridge  to  Lerici  stnkes  off  to 
the  rt. 

There  is  a  steamer  every  day  be- 
ween  Spezia  and  Genoa,  performing  the 
voyage  in  6  htas.;  fares,  10*20,  8-20, 
and  6*20  fr. 


Cross  the  Magra,  now  on  a  fine  bridge 
of  12  arches  :  its  construction  was  at- 
tended with  much  difficulty,  owing  to 
the  instability  of  the  foundation  for  the 
piers.  The  Magra,  the  Macra  of  the 
Bomans,  divides  the  territory  of  Li- 
guria  from  the  Lunigiana,  and  the 
ancient  Liguria  from  Etruria,  as  it  did 
in  more  modem  times  the  Genoese 
from  the  Tuscan  possessions. 

'*  Macra  che  per  cammin  corto 
Lo  Geaovese  parte  dal  Toscano.* 

Paradiso,  ix.  89. 

On  the  rt.  of  the  Magra,  just  before 
crossing  it,  the  town  of  Areola,  perched 
on  a  mountain,  with  a  high  tower  and 
fine  walls,  and  Trehhicmo,  equally  well 
situated  a  little  lower  down,  are  attrac- 
tive objects  to  the  traveller,  if  he  has 
time  to  leave  the  beaten  track. 

Above  the  W.  bank  of  the  Magra, 
and  below  Monte  Marcello,  are  the 
ruins  of  the  monastery  of  La  Santa 
Croce,  where  Dante  sought  a  refuge, 
chiedendo  pace,  as  he  himself  expressed, 
on  his  being  expelled  from  Florence : 
ii  was  also  visited  by  Charles  V.  and 
Francis  I. 

The  province  of  the  iMnigianay 
which  we  now  enter,  belongs  geogra- 
phically to  Tuscany,  though  politically 
separated  from  it.  It  was  imequally 
divided  between  Sardinia,  Massa,  and 
Carrara  (imited  \mtil  lately  to  the  pos- 
sessions of  the  Ihike  of  Modena), 
and  Farma ;  but  the  character  and 
lineage  of  the  inhabitants  continue  to 
mark  it  as  a  distinct  province,  and  to 
connect  it  with  its  ancient  history. 

19  kil.  Sarzana  (Inns:  Albergo  di 
Londra.  The  H6tel  deUa  Nuova 
York,  on  the  ramparts.  This  city, 
which  is  the  capital  of  the  pro- 
vince of  Levante,  contains  9000 
Inhab.  It  appears  to  have  risen  out 
of  the  decay  of  Limi,  from  which  the 
bishopric  was  removed.  Its  ancient 
government,  which  subsisted  till  the 
French  invasion,  was  rather  remark- 
able, being  vested  in  an  assembly 
called  the  "  Farlamento,"  not,  like 
the  Farlamento  of  Florence,  a  pri- 
mary or  democratic  meeting,  but  a 
mixed  aristocratic  representative  body, 


140 


Eoute  14. — Sarzana — Sarzanetta. 


KlVIERA. 


composed  of  nobles,  artificers,  and 
peasants  from  the  district  included 
within  the  jurisdiction  of  the  munici- 
pality. All  these  constitutional  forms 
were  swept  away  by  the  republicans ; 
and  when  the  Sardinian  government 
was  restored,  the  French  forms  of 
administration  were  substantially  re- 
tained, as  in  most  other  parts  of  the 
kingdom. 

The  Duomo,  built  of  white  marble, 
begun  in  1365,  but  not  completed  till 
1474,  is  a  specimen  of  early  Italian- 
Gothic.  In  the  centre  of  the  west 
front  is  a  good  and  unaltered  rose 
window.  The  facade  is  remarkable  for 
its  simplicity.  The  interior,  although 
much  modernised,  still  preserves  its 
three  fine  round  arches,  separating  the 
nave  and  aisles,  supported  by  elegant 
octagonal  piers  j  the  transepts,  which 
are  short,  contain  two  rich  and  florid 
Gothic  altars.  There  is  a  Massacre 
of  the  Innocents  in  the  chapel  at  the 
end  of  the  rt.  aisle,  by  Fiasella^  sur- 
named  Sarzana^  from  this  his  birth- 
place. On  the  facade  are  three  statues, 
one  of  Pope  Nicholas  V.  (1447-1455), 
Thomas  of  Sarzana,  who  was  a  native 
of  this  town.  Though  bom  of  hum- 
ble parents,  he  waa  entirely  free 
from  the  weakness  of  nepotism.  He 
was  the  munificent  protector  of  the 
Greeks  when  driven  into  Italy  after 
the  fall  of  Constantinople;  an  event 
which,  as  it  is  said,  he  took  so  much 
to  heart,  that  it  hastened  his  end.  He 
was  also  the  founder  of  the  greatest 
literary  repository  of  Italy — the  Vati- 
can Library.  It  was  also  from  Sar- 
zana that  the  reigning  family  of  France 
aj)pears  to  have  derived  its  origin,  as 
shown  by  the  curious  researches  of 
Signer  Passerini,  the  director  of  the 
Archivio  della  Nobilta  at  Florence. 
The  name  of  Buonaparte,  a  kind  of 
sobriquet  in  its  origin  (as  Malaparte 
was  in  the  Gherardesca  family),  became 
the  patronymic  of  a  junior  branch  of 
the   Cadolmgis,   Lords   of  Fucecchio, 


which  had  settled  in  the  province 
of  Lunigiana,  and  neighbourhood 
of  Sarzana,  where,  as  proved  by  con- 
temporary documents,  a  certain  no- 
tary called  Buonaparte  lived  in  1264. 
It  was  the  chief  of  this  branch  who 
emigrated  to  Corsica  (Ajaccio),  and 
from  whom  descended  the  family  of 
Napoleon.  The  genealogy  of  the 
Counts  of  Fucecchio  can  be  traced  as 
(bx  back  as  the  middle  of  the  10th 
centy.,  so  that  the  Imperial  family 
may  boast  of  an  origin  almost  as 
remote  as  that  of  their  Bourbon  pre- 
decessors on  the  throne  of  France. 
The  Buonaparte  family  of  S.  Miniato 
was  of  Siennese  origin,  and  was  sup- 
posed generally  before  Signer  Pas- 
serrini's  researches,  and  by  the  first 
Napoleon  himself,  to  be  that  from 
which  the  Imperial  house  derived  its 
origin. 

The  castle  and  the  ancient  fortifica- 
tions of  the  city  form  an  extensive  mass 
of  buildings. 

In  this  neighbourhood  the  peasant- 
girls  wear  hats  which  would  not  be  too 
large  for  a  full-sized  doll,  and  are  wliim- 
sically  placed  on  the  crown  of  the  head. 

SarzaneUay  a  "rocca,"  or  fortress, 
above  Sarzana,  built  by  Castruccio  degli 
Antelminelli,  the  celebrated  Lord  of 
Lucca,  for  the  purpose  of  defending  the 
territory  against  the  Malaspinas,  from 
whom  it  was  won.  It  is  a  finely  pre- 
served specimen  of  ancient  military  ar- 
chitecture, with  its  commanding  keep 
harmonising  with  the  fortifications  of 
the  town. 

12  kil.  AvENZA  Stat.  (See  Rte.  76.) 
The  distance  from  Avenza  to  Carrara, 
to  which  there  is  a  branch  Ely.,  is 
2  m.  to  Pisa,  by  Bly.,  41  ni.,  passing 
through  Massa,  Pietra  Santa,  and  Yia- 
reggio  (Rte.  76)  ;  from  Pisa  to  Flo- 
rence, by  Rly.,  49  m.  (Rte.  77)  ;  from 
Lucca  to  Pisa,  13  m.  (Rte.  78)  ;  Leg- 
horn to  Pisa  and  Florence,  58^  m. 
(Rte.  79). 


(    141    ) 


SECTION   III. 


LOMBARD  Y. 


1.  JPcLssportSt  PogHng,—2,  Mdney.—Z,  Weights,  Measures,— 4i.  Territory.— 
5.  Ifature  of  the  Country,  Agriculture,  Productions, — 6.  Language, — 
7.  Mne  Arts  of  Lomhardy, 

BOUTES. 


BOUTB  PAGE 

16.  !Prom  the  Italian  Frontier  on 

the  Simplon  to  Arona  and 
I/ago  Maggiore         -         -  150 

17.  Sesto  Calende,  on  Lago  Mag- 

giore, to  Milan  -        -  157 

18.  Laveno  to  Varese  and  Como  -  158 

19.  Como  to  Zecco  and  Bergamo    168 

20.  Lecco  to  Milan     -        -         -  170 

21.  -Como  to  Milan,  by  Monza — 

Rail  -        -        -        -  171 

22.  Milan  to  Varese,  by  Saronno    229 

23.  Milan  to  0-enoa,  by  Pavia — 

Rail         -        -        .        -  231 


EOTJTB  PAGE 

24.  Milan  to  Piacenza,  by  Mele- 

gnano,    Lodi,    and    Casal 
Fusterlengo       -         -         -  242 

25.  Milan   to   Mantua,    by    CrC' 

mona       .        .        .'        .  £46 

27.  Milan  to  the  Austrian  Frontier 

at  Peschiera,  by  Treviglio, 
Bergamo,  Brescia,  Sol- 
ferino,  &c. — Rail       -         -  253 

28.  Milan    to   Bergamo,  by  the 

post-road  through  Gorgon- 
zola  and  Vajprio        -         -  283 


PRELIMINARY  INFORMATION. 

§  1.  Passpoets.-— Posting, 

Tlie  regulations  as  to  passports  are  on  the  same  liberal  system  as  in 
other  parts  of  the  kingdom  of  Italy.  The  measures  of  distances,  and  rules  as 
to  post-horses,  are  similar  on  the  very  few  roads  of  Lombardy  near  which 
railway  travelling  has  not  yet  penetrated. 

§  2.  Monet. 

At  present  the  Italian  Lira  is  equal  to  the  French  franc.  The  currency  of 
Lombardy,  being  the  same  as  that  of  Sardinia,  consists,  in  gold,  of  Napoleons, 
and  40  and  80  franc  pieces,  and  in  silver  of  5,  2,  1,  ^  franc,  and  20  centime 
pieces. 

Formerly  money  calculations  were  perplexing  in  consequence  of  payments 
being  made  in  Lire  Milanesi  and  Lire  Italiane,  but  the  Lira  ItaUana,  or  Franc, 
is  that  now  universally  adopted  in  all  official  and  commercial  transactions. 

The  Lu*a  Milanese,  a  nominal  coin,  was  divided  into  20  soldi,  and  each 
soldo  into  12  denari ;  its  value  77  French  centimes.  The  Lira  Italiana  is  of 
the  same  value  and  subdivisions  as  the  French  franc;  in  fact,  the  coins 
current  imder  this  name  are  the  francs  of  the  ItaUan  kingdom,  France,  and 
Switzerland. 


142 


§  2.  M(mey. 


Sect.  III. 


The  following  are  the  comparative  average  values  of  these  coins : — 


I. 


Lira  Italiana,  or 
French  Franc. 

Lira  Austriaca,  or 

Zwanziger. 

One-third  of  the  florin. 

Lira  Milanese. 

Lir. 

Cent. 

Lir. 

Cent. 

Lir. 

Soldi. 

1 

_ 

1 

19 

1 

8 

2 

._ 

2 

38 

2 

16 

3 

3 

57 

4 

4 

4 

i— 

4 

76 

5 

12 

5 

— 

5 

95 

7 

10 

11 

90 

14 

"— 

II. 


L.  Austriache. 

Lir. 

Cent. 

1 

_- 

2 

3 

— 

4 

— 

5 

— 

10 

— • 

L.  Ital. 


L.  Milan. 


III. 

Milanese* 

Anstrian. 

Italian. 

Lir. 

Soldi. 

Den. 

Lir. 

Cent. 

lir. 

Cent. 

1 

— 

— 

88 

^^ 

77 

2 

— 

— 

1 

76 

1 

54 

3 

— 

— 

2 

64 

2 

31 

4 

— 

— 

3 

52 

3 

8 

6 

— 

4 

40 

3 

85 

6 

— 

-  -— 

5 

28 

4 

62 

7 

— 

— 

6 

16 

5 

39 

8 

— 

— 

7 

4 

6 

16 

9 

— 

— 

7 

92 

6 

93 

10 

8 

80 

7 

70 

LoMBAEDY.         §  3.  Weights — Measures,     §  4.  Territory .  143 


§  3.  Weights. — Measutbes. 

Weights, — Although  the  metrical  division  is  the  only  recognised  standard, 
there  are  sereral  local  weights  and  measures  which  it  is  important  to  know  the 
equiyalents  of.  Those  of  Lombardy  are  extremely  various  and  confused.  Until 
within  a  few  years  there  were  in  use,  11  units  oi  money,  100  of  linear  measure, 
120  of  superficial  measure,  and  a  stiU  greater  number  of  measures  of  capacity. 
Some  clearness  has  been  gained  by  the  use  o:^  and  by  reference  to,  the  French 
metrical  system,  which  is  still  used,  in  some  of  the  government  transactions. 
Sonae  of  the  most  commonly  occurring  measures  are  here  given. 

The  Ubhra  piccoUiy  the  ordinary  commercial  weight,  is  divided  into  12 
once,  288  danari,  and  6912  grani,  and  equals  5044  English  grains,  or  0*32679 
kilogranunes.  Thus  lOQlb.  of  Milan  =  72*061b.  avoirdupois,  or  32*68  kilo- 
grammes. 

The  libbra  grossa  is  equal  to  28  once,  or  2*33  of  the  libbra  piccola.  Hence 
3  libbra  grossa  equal  7  libbra  piccola,  and  100  libbra  grossa  equal  168*21b. 
avoirdupois,  or  76*25  kilogrammes. 

Liqmd  Measures, — The  Irewta  is  divided  into  3  staia,  6  mine,  12  quartan, 
96  boccali,  and  384  zaine  or  terzeruole,'  and  contains  18*86  English  gallons. 

Land  or  Superficial  Measures, — The  Pertica  consists  of  1849  square  braccie 
and  is  equal  to  783  square  English  yards,  and  to  654tl;  metres. 

1  Pertiea  is  equal  to       -        -        -        l-ft  Koods. 
1  English  acre  equal  to  -        •        -        6t%  Pertiche. 

Measures  of  length. — ^The  hraccio  is  divided  into  12  once^  144  punti,  and 
1728  atomi,  and  is  equal  to  23*42  English  inches,  or  1*95  feet,  or  0*5949  of  a 
French  m^tre. 

The  Lombard  mile  contains  3000  hraccia  da  legname,  and  is  equal  to  1952 
English  yards,  or  1  mile  and  190  yards,  or  1784  metres. 

The  Italian  mile,  which  is  sometimes  used,  is  the  same  as  the  geographical 
or  nautical  nule,  and  is  equal  to  2025  English  yards,  and  1852  mdtres. 


§  4.  Tebeitoet. 

The  ancient  kingdom  possessed  by  the  Longobardi,  or  Longheards,  extended 
from  the  Apennines  and  the  Po  to  the  Alps,  excepting  Venice  and  some  few 
border  districts. .  Prom  this  great  aind  opulent  territory  large  portions  were 
.acquired  at  various  times  by  the  Venetians,  constituting  nearly  the  whole 
of  their  terra  Jirma  dominions.  A  considerable  portion  was  taken  by  the  dukes 
of  Savoy  on  the  W.  Mantua,  Modena,  Parma,  Piacenza,  C^uastaUa,  all  were 
dismembered  from  Lombardy,  and  erected  into  Imperial  or  Papal  fiefs.  The 
Swiss  appropriated  the  ValteUina;  and  the  Italian  BaUiages  of  Switzerland, 
now  the  canton  Ticino  (which  still  retains  so  many  features  of  ancient  Lom- 
bardy), resulted  from  this  acquisition.    The  repubhc  of  Milan  became  subject 


144  §  5.  Nature  of  the  Country,  Sect.  III. 

to  the  lordship  of  Matteo  Yisconti  I.  in  1288.  The  Yisoontis  gained  a  great 
extent  of  territory  which  had  belonged  to  the  other  Lombard  republics ;  and 
their  domains  were  erected  into  the  "  Duchy  of  Milan**  by  the  Emperor 
Sigismund,  in  1395.  Milan,  when  acquired  by  the  Spanish  branch  of  the  House 
of  Austria,  was  thus  reduced  within  comparatively  narrow  bounds.  The  treaty 
of  Vienna,  in  1814,  restored  to  Austria  all  the  possessions  enjoyed  by  that 
house  before  the  wars  arising  out  of  the  French  revolution,  and  also  gave  a  great 
deal  more — ^Venice,  and  the  whole  of  the  Venetian  terra  firma^  the  Valtellina, 
and  some  smaller  districts.  These  possessions  were  erected  into  a  distinct 
kingdom,  and  still  possess  a  national  character  widely  different  from  the  rest 
of  Italy,  which  continued  to  be  possessed  by  Austria  until  1859,  when  Lom- 
bardy  was  ceded  to  France  by  the  Treaties  of  Villafranca  and  Zurich,  after  the 
disastrous  campaign  of  that  year,  and  by  France  transferred  to  the  kingdom  of 
Italy. 

The  population,  according  to  the  last  census  (1863),  amounts  to  3,104,788, 
divided  into  seven  provinces  :  Milan,  including  Lodi,  948,320  Inhab.  ; 
Brescia,  486,333 ;  Como,  457,434 ;  Bergamo,  347,235 ;  Pavia,  419,785 ;  Cre- 
mona, 339,641 ;  Sondrio  and  the  ValtelUne,  106,040 :  each  province  having  at 
its  head  a  CK>veruor,  and  the  subdivisions  Deputy  Governors  or  Intendentes. 


§   5.  NaTUEE  out  THE  COUNTBY.— AaBICULTUEE. — PbODUCTIONS. 

In  the  earliest  times  of  the  history  of  Italy,  the  whole  of  that  rich  country 
which  now  bears  the  name  of  Lombardy  was  possessed  by  the  ancient  and 
powerful  nation  of  the  Tuscans.  Subsequently  numerous  hordes  from  Gaul 
poured  successively  over  the  Alps  into  Italy,  and  drove  by  degrees  the  Tuscans 
m)m  these  fertile  plains.  At  about  the  beginning  of  the  second  century  before 
Christ  it  became  a  Roman  province.  Large  tracts  of  country,  which,  from 
being  swampy  or  covered  with  forests,  were  uninhabited  and  unfit  for  cul- 
tivation, were  now  drained  and  levelled,  and  the  whole  assumed  an  appearance 
of  prosperity  and  opulence  which  was  not  surpassed  by  any  part  of  the 
Empire.  The  splendour  of  Verona  may  be  traced  in  its  remains ;  yet 
Verona  was  less  celebrated  than  Padua,  Milan,  or  Ravenna.  But  from  the 
reign  of  Tiberius  the  decay  of  agriculture  was  felt  in  Italy.  In  the  division 
and  decline  of  the  Empire  the  coimtry  was  exhausted  by  the  irretrievable 
losses  of  war,  famine,  and  pestilence.  St.  Ambrose  has  deplored  the  ruin 
of  a  populous  region,  which  had  been  once  adorned  with  the  flourishing  cities 
of  Bologna,  Modena,  Regium,  and  Placentia.  The  barbarians  who  took  posses- 
sion of  Italy  on  the  fall  of  the  Western  Empire  were  compelled  by  necessity  to 
turn  their  attention  to  agricultiure,  which  had  been  long  in  such  a  state  of  pro- 
gressive but  rapid  depression,  that  the  country  could  not  furnish  the  imposts 
on  which  the  pay  of  the  soldiery  depended,  nor  even  a  certain  supply  of  the 
necessaries  of  life.  After  the  occupation  of  Northern  Italy  by  the  Lom- 
bards, and  the  restoration  of  a  tolerable  degree  of  security  and  quiet,  agri- 
culture gradually  improved.  In  spite  of  the  constant  warfare  of  the  neighbour- 
ing cities  during  the  existence  of  the  Italian  republics,  both  the  towns  and . 
country  advanced  in  population  and  wealth.  Though  the  greatest  territorial 
improvement  of  Lombardy  took  place,  perhaps,  at  an  sera  rather  posterior  to 
that  of  her  republican  government,  yet  from  this  it  primarily  sprang,  owing  to 
tlie  perpetual  demand  upon  the  fertility  of  the  earth  by  an  increasing  popula- 
tion. The  rich  Lombard  plains,  still  more  fertilised  by  irrigation,  became 
a  garden,  and  agriculture  seems  to  have  reached  the  excellence  which  it  still 


LoMBARDY.         §  5.  Nature  of  the  Country — Agrkulture.  145 

retains.  Though  Lojnbardy  was  extremely  populous  in  the  thirteenth  and 
fourteenth  centuries,  she  exported  large  quantities  of'  com.  Many  canals  were 
cut :  the  Namglio  Grande  was  commenced  in  1177,  and  completed  in  1272  j 
that  of  Pavia,  though  only  recently  brought  into  its  present  complete  state,  was 
begun  in  1359  ;  that  which  runs  through  Milan,  in  1440,  and  finished  in  1497 ; 
those  of  Bereguardo  and  the  Martesana  were  begun  in  1457 ;  and  that  of 
Pademo  in  1518.  These  canals,  and  the  general  character  of  the  land,  give  to 
the  districts  of  the  plain  a  considerable  similarity  to  Flanders. 

At  the  present  time  this  fertile  section  of  the  Italian  kingdom,  situated 
between  the  northern  and  the  maritime  Alps,  and  stretching  from  the  Cottian 
and  Pennine  Alps  to  the  Mincio  and  the  Adriatic,  comprises  the  most  generally 
productive  part  of  Italy.  It  is  distinguished  for  its  mulberry-trees  and  sUk,  its 
rice,  Indian  com,  wheat,  and  cheese.  The  vine,  oKve,  chestnut,  and  a  great 
variety  of  fruits  are  raised.  Potatoes  and  various  vegetables  are  also  grown  j 
and  the  peasantry  are  in  a  better  condition  than  in  most  parts  of  the  Peninsula. 
The  farm-houses  are  often  large,  but  inconveniently  and  scantily  furnished,  and, 
generally  speaking,  there  is  a  great  absence  of  completeness  about  the  dwellings 
and  ia  the  implements  of  husbandry :  many  things  are  found  out  of  order ; 
and  we  seldom  &il  to  observe  a  prevalence  of  the  mahe-sMft  system  in  agri- 
culture. 

There  is,  however,  a  great  variety  in  the  pursuits,  as  well  as  in  the  habitations, 
of  the  people.  Those  in  the  moimtain  or  hilly  regions  Uve  and  work  very 
differently  from  those  m  the  low  countries  of  Lombardy  and  Venice.  The  flat 
countries  derive  their  fertility  from  the  mountain  regions  which  fiU  those  great 
subalpine  reservoirs  the  lakes  of  Maggiore,  Como,  and  G-arda  with  the  water 
which  is  carried  downwards  by  the  rivers,  and  serves  to  flood  the  lands  of  the 
plain  requiring  irrigation. 

1.  The  Mountainous  Region  comprises  the  northern  parts  of  the  provinces 
of  Bergamo,  Brescia,  and  Como,  and  the  province  of  Sondrio.  The  lower 
heights  of  the  Alps  consist  of  woodland  and  pastures.  The  trees  are  chiefly 
fir,  larch,  birch,  oaks,  and  chestnut ;  the  pastures  in  the  mountain  slopes 
and  valleys.  The  herds  ascend  with  their  famihes,  horses,  and  cattle  to 
great  elevations  on  the  Alps  during  summer,  and  descend  gradually,  as  in 
Switzerland,  when  winter  approaches,  to  the  valleys  and  low  country.  Culti- 
vation is  attended  to  with  great  labour  on  the  southern  decHvities  of  the 
mountain  region;  the  ground  being  formed  in  terraces,  and  the  earth  fre- 
quently carried  up  to  supply  what  has  been  washed  away  by  the  rains.  The 
vine  is  cultivated  on  the  slopes.  Walnut  and  mulberry  trees  are  also 
grown.  Common  fruits,  some  hemp  and  flax,  barley,  rye,  Indian  com,  buck- 
wheat, potatoes,  common  and  kitchen  vegetables,  are  all  cultivated,  though  not 
in  great  abundance.  Wax  and  honey  are  collected ;  the  latter,  especially  that 
of  Bormio,  is  dehcious. 

2.  The  Littoral  Region  (that  bordering  on  the  lakes)  comprehends  the  districts 
of  Gravedona,  Dongo,  Bellaggio,  Menaggio,  BeUano,  and  Lecco,  in  the  province 
of  Como ;  Lovere  and  Samico,  in  Bergamo  j  and  Iseo,  Gargnano,  Sal6,  and 
Dezenzano,  in  Brescia,  It  belongs  to  the  elevated  region,  and  forms  the  sides 
of  high  mountains,  which  shelter  it  in  a  great  measure  from  the  cold  winds. 
It  is  exposed  to  the  warm  air  from  the  S.  and  from  the  lakes ;  it  is  rarely 
subject  to  frost  or  snow ;  and  in  these  districts  the  cUmate  is  much  more 
temperate  than  on  tlie  liills  and  plains  situated  at  a  lower  level.  The  lemon 
is  cultivated  in  a  few  places,  not  only  for  ornament,  but  for  its  fruit. 

N.  Itahf—l%m.  H 


146  §  5.  Nature  of  the  Cauntry'^Productions.         Sect.  III. 

These  districts  produce  much  wine  and  silk ;  the  country  is  covered  witH 
villas  and  gardens,  adorned  with  cypresses,  magnolias,  or  acacias. 

Properties  are  much  divided  on  the  Lake  of  Gurda ;  a  few  yards  of  ground 
set  apart  for  the  cultivation  of  lemons  suffice  to  maintain  a  whole  fitnuly.  The 
peasants  there,  are,  properly  speaking,  gardeners.  In  this  district  are  produced 
15  milHons  of  lemons  and  40,000  lbs.  of  oil  from  the  berry  of  the  laurel.  The 
lemon-trees  are  covered  in  winter  by  sheds.  This  region  is  chiefly  dependent 
on  the  neighbouring  mountains  for  timber.  The  cultivation  of  the  mulberry  is 
greatly  extending,  and  that  of  the  olive  decreasing. 

It  must  be  noticed  that  for  sev«*al  years  the  mulberry  has  by  degrees  sup- 
planted the  olive,  because  the  product  of  the  mulberry-tree  is  more  constant, 
and  the  time  of  crop  less  distant,  whilst  with  the  oUve  there  are  alternate  years 
of  abundance  and  scarcity.  The  olive  crop  is  gathered  towards  the  end  of  the 
year,  and  remains  long  exposed  to  accidents.  In  the  province  of  Brescia, 
within  these  last  36  years,  the  production  of  silk  has  greatly  increased ;  that 
of  oil  having  diminished. 

3.  Hilly t  or  Suhalpine  Region,  This  region,  forming  a  rather  narrow  belt  of 
country,  immediately  N.  of  the  low  country,  extends  along  the  upper  parts  of 
the  provinces  of  Milan,  Como,  Bergamo,  and  Brescia. 

The  chief  productions  of  the  hill  country  are  the  finest  silk,  wines,  maize, 
millet,  chestnuts,  fruit,  and  vegetables. 

The  properties  are  less  divided  than  in  the  mountain  region ;  still  they  are 
often  split  into  small  fisurms  (Jfcusarie),  of  the  value  of  from  15,000  to  20,000 
francs. 

Few  peasants  are  proprietors ;  the  greater  part  are  simple  tenants,  and  pay 
in  kind.  They  keep  cows  and  oxen,  but  milk,  cheese,  and  butter  are  scarce : 
part  of  these  articles  are  introduced  from  the  mountains,  and  part  from  the  low 
country. 

The  inhabitants  attend  principally  to  the  cultivation  of  silk,  and  with 
the  money  gained  from  this  they  provide  themselves  with  the  necessaries 
of  life.  The  houses  in  general  are  large,  well  aired,  and  clean,  which  they 
owe  chiefly  to  the  use  these  rooms  are  put  to  in  rearing  sUkworms,  as  the 
worms  are  always  more  healthy  in  well-ventilated  apartments.  Here,  as 
everywhere  in  the  Lombardian  provinces,  the  abodes  of  the  peasantry  are  built 
of  brick  with  tiled  roofs. 

The  climate  is  salubrious,  mild,  and  free  from  fogs.  Hail-storms  are  frequent. 
In  this  region  there  are  often  clear  days,  when  the  adjacent  flat  country  is 
enveloped  in  fog. 

4.  The  upper  flat  country  comprehends  part  of  Somma,  GkiUarate,  Busto, 
Cuggionno,  Saronno,  Barlassina,  Desio,  Monza,  in  the  province  of  Milan ;  Yer- 
dello,  TrevigHo,  Martinengo,  and  Bomano,  in  Bergamo ;  Ospitaletto,  Castiglione, 
and  Montechiaro,  in  Brescia. 

This  region  is  traversed  by  gentle  undulations  which  branch  from  the  hills  ; 
the  soil  is  in  many  places  diy,  and  not  of  natural  fertiHty.  The  districts  to 
which  irrigation  does  not  reach  are  often  to  a  great  extent  covered  with  heath. 
There  are  still  some  forests  of  oak,  pine,  and  chestnut  trees. 

The  subterranean  waters  are  very  deep,  and  the  wells,  for  the  greater  part, 
are  some  hundred  feet  below  the  surface,  as  in  the  environs  of  Gullarate, 
Saronno,  and  Desio.  The  peasantry,  when  they  have  not  some  water-course 
in  the  neighbourhood,  are  obliged  to  collect  the  rain-water  in  tanks,  calledjTo^^, 
or  large  square  ditches  embedded  with  a  clayey  stratum,  which  contam  the 
rain-water  for  the  use  of  the'  cattle,  and  which  in  dry  weatlier  becomes  green 


LoMBABDY.  §  6.  Nature  of  the  ComJbry — Productians.  147 

and  unwholesome.  The  ground  is  cultivated  in  wheat,  lye,  Indian  com  (which 
last  suffers  much  firom  the  drought),  a  little  buckwheat,  millet,  melons,  and, 
above  all,  in  mulberry  and  fruit  trees. 

In  situations  near  the  water  the  apple-tree  flourishes.  Meadow  land  is 
obtained  by  means  of  artificial  irrigation.  The  peasants  are  less  active,  less 
cordial,  and  less  cleanly  than  in  the  hilly  country.  Instead  of  massarie,  or  stew- 
ardships, as  in  the  hills,  it  is  customary  to  have  tenants  who  pay  a  money-rent 
for  the  house,  and  a  rent  in  kind  for  the  ground.  When  in  want  of  fodder 
for  the  cattle,  the  deficiency  is  made  up  by  an  abundant  supply  of  lupins  and 
heath,  which  latter  substance  is  collected  for  this  purpose ;  it  is  cut  from  a 
portion  of  heath-ground,  and  given  as  an  appendage  to  a  certain  quantity  of 
cultivated  land. 

5.  7%e  low  flat  country  comprehends  Bollate,  G-orgonzola,  Melzo,  Melegnano, 
and  Gorsico,  in  Milan;  the  provinces  of  Pavia,  Lodi,  Crema,  and  Cremona; 
Orzi-Novo,  Verola-nuova,  Bagnolo,  and  Leno,  in  that  of  Brescia ;  Marcaria, 
Bozzolo,  Sabbioneta,  Yiadana,  Borgo  Forte,  Mantua,  Ostiglia,  Lazarra,  Cronzaga, 
Bevere,  and  Sermide,  in  Mantua. 

A  gravelly  soil  prevails  also  in  this  region ;  but  the  same  aridity  does  not 
exist  as  in  the  upper  flat  region.  Bills  of  good  water  are  easily  formed  by 
digging  a  very  moderate  depth.  Fontanili,  or  Artesian  wells  on  a  small  scale, 
are  circular  excavations  dug  in  the  earth,  in  wliich  are  placed  long  tubs,  from 
the  bottom  of  which  bubble  up  copious  streams  of  water.  The  water  flows  from 
these  fontanili  into  a  canal  or  ditch,  along  which  it  runs  to  irrigate  the  fields.  The 
Jbntanili  abound  chiefly  about  Milan. 

Water  is  also  drawn  from  the  rivers  by  canals.  The  smaller  canals,  cavi  and 
rugiCy  are  innumerable,  and  were  cut  at  different  times.  They  often  encroach 
on  each  other,  mixing  their  waters,  or  avoiding  them  by  means  of  bridges, 
canals,  or  by  syphons,  called  salte  di  gatto. 

The  waters  are  diligently  measured  by  rules  deduced  from  the  law  of  hydro- 
statics, which  have  passed  into  an  habitual  practice.  The  canals  are  provided 
with  graduated  sluices  (incastri),  which  are  raised  or  lowered  according  as 
the  case  may  be.  The  measure  is  called  oncia,  and  corresponds  to  the  quantity 
of  water  which  passes  through  a  square  hole,  three  Milanese  inches  high  (an 
oncia  of  Milan  equals  two  inches  English)  and  four  inches  wide,  open  one  inch 
below  the  surface  of  the  water,  which,  with  its  pressure,  determines  a  given 
velocity.  The  value  of  a  property  depends  on  the  command,  the  conveniency, 
and  the  goodness  of  the  water.  Hence  the  distribution  of  the  waters  is  the 
object  of  local  statutes,  of  diligent  care  and  keeping. 

The  best  irrigation  is  that  in  the  lands  about  Milan,  Lodi,  and  Pavia. 

In  the  country  between  Milan,  Lodi,  and  Pavia,  the  cheese  called  in  the 
country  Grana,  and  by  us  Parmesan,  is  made.  The  provinces  of  Lodi  and 
Pavia  are  the  chief  seats  of  its  production. 

In  the  eastern  part  of  Lodi  and  Crema  flax  is  largely  cultivated,  and  ex- 
ported to  foreign  countries  by  way  of  Venice  and  Grenoa.  In  the  marshy  dis- 
tricts of  the  provinces  of  Milan  and  Cremona  the  cultivation  of  rice  is  on  the 
Increase.  -  . 

In  the  more  elevated  parts  of  the  Cremonese  country,  where  irrigation  is 
impossible,  the  cultivation  of  various  kinds  of  grain,  flax,  mulberry-trees,  and 
the  vine  is  followed.  In  the  low  parts,  along  the  Po,  towards  Casal  maggiore, 
wine  is  the  principal  production. 

The  inhabitants  of  the  low  country  are  less  inchned  to  be  industrious, 
or  to  engage  in  commerce,  than  those  of  the  upper.    Hence  in  the  lower 

u  2 


148  §  6.  Language, — §  7.  Fine  Arts.  Sect.  III. 

countries  manufacturing  industry  is  greatly  restricted.  Nevertheless,  in 
the  Cremonese  territory  much  linen  is  manufactured  about  Yiadana;  and  at 
Pralboino,  in  the  province  of  Brescia.  Some  classes  of  the  peasantry,  and 
chiefly  those  who  tend  large  flocks,  often  change  masters,  and  show  a  little- 
settled  disposition. 

In  the  Milanese  districts  the  rich  cheese  called  Stracchino  is  made  iroia. 
cream  and  unskimmed  cow's  mUk.  The  best  is  produced  about  Gorgonzola,  12 
m.  E.  of  Milan. 

Silk. — The  culture  of  the  mulberry,  and  the  rearing  of  the  silkworm,  have, 
in  coinmercial  value,  become  the  most  important  branch  of  Lombard  industry. 
The  white  mulberry  grows  chiefly  in  rows,  surrounding  grounds  under  other 
cultivation,  over  a  great  extent  of  Lombardy.  In  most  places  it  is  pollarded, 
and  is  a  dwarf  thickly-leaved  tree.  When  allowed  to  grow  naturally  it  attains 
a  tolerable  size. 

All  things  considered,  Italy  ranks  higher  for  her  silk  than  any  other  country. 
She  supplies  her  own  manufactures,  and  exports  largely.  In  thirty  years  the 
production  has  grown  from  a  small  value  to  the  enormous  amount  of  300,000,000 
Austrian  livres  (more  than  10,000,000/.).  In  1800  the  whole  produce  of  the 
Lombardo- Venetian  kingdom  did  not  exceed  1,800,000  lbs.  of  silk ;  in  1856  it 
reached  2,512,500  lbs.  avoird.,  valued  at  3,333,000/.  sterl.  The  value  of  the 
silk  exported  from  the  whole  Lombardo- Venetian  territory  amounts  to  nearly 
5,000,000/.  sterling. 

In  Lombardy  it  is  not  found  advantageous  to  raise  more  than  one  brood  of 
worms  during  the  year.  The  eggs  are  hatched  in  May,  before  the  beginning  of 
which  a  supply  of  leaves  cannot  be  reckoned  upon.  The  reeling  the  cocoons 
takes  place  in  the  autumn.  A  woman  seated  at  a  caldron  containing  hot  water 
prepares  and  arranges  the  cocoons,  while  a  girl  turns  the  wheel  on  which  the 
silk  is  wound.  Considerable  skill  is  required  to  manage  the  reehng.  It  is 
usually  carried  on  in  large  buildings,  with  machinery  adapted  to  the  purpose, 
and  is  a  very  animated  spectacle  during  the  autumn. 

§  6.  LANarrAQE. 

The  Lombard  dialects  are,  perhaps,  the  harshest  in  all  Italy.  The  sound  of 
the  !Prench  u  is  generally  found  in  them.  It  is  not  merely  unknown,  but  qait-e 
unpronounceable,  beyond  the  Apennines ;  and  Verri,  the  able  historian  of  Milan, 
supposes  it  was  left  behind  by  the  Ghiuls. 

§  7.  Tine  Aets  ob  Lohbabdy. 

For  painting  we  must  refer  our  readers  to  Kugler's  Handbook  ^f  the  Italian 
Schools,  ed.  Eastlake,  and  Cavalcaselle  and  (>owe's  History  of  Painting  in 
Italy ;  for  Architecture,  to  Mr.  Fergusson's  Handbook  of  Architecture,  and 
Mr.  Street's  Marble  and  Brick  Architecture  of  North  Italy,  which  is  specially 
dedicated  to  a  class  of  ediflces  almost  peculiar  to  Lombardy.* 

•  Kugler's  Handbook  of  the  Italian  Schools,  2  vols.  8vo.,  edited  by  Sir  C.  Eastlake,  P.n.A.. 
1855.  Contributions  towards  a  New  History  of  Painting  in  Italy,  by  Sig.  Cavalcaselle  and 
J.  E.  Crowe,  2  vols.  8vo.  Fergusson— The  Illustrated  Handbook  of  Architecture,  with  850 
Illustrations  on  wood,  2  vols.  8vo.,  1855  ;  Modem  Styles  of  Architecture,  and  History  of  Archi- 
tecture, 1865.  The  Marble  and  Brick  Architecture  of  North  Italy  during  the  Middle  Ageg, 
by  G.  E.  Street,  1  vol.  8vo.,  1855.  The  Brick  and  Terracotta  Buildings  of  North  Italy,  l«th  to 
15th  Centuries,  by  Lewis  Gniiier.    1866. 


LoMBARDY.  S  7.  Fine  AHs  of  Lomhardy.  149 

Of  ancient  sculpture  little  lias  been  found  in  Lombardy,  except  at  Brescia.  The 
earliest  specimens  of  the  sculpture  of  the  middle  ages  are  remarkably  rude;  fiiUy 
as  coarse  as  those  of  our  Saxon  ancestors ;  of  which  the  bas-reliefs  of  the  Porta 
Bomana,  at  Milan,  executed  about  the  year  1169,  immediately  after  the  rebuilding 
of  the  city,  are  a  striking  specimen.  About  a  hundred  years  afterwards  sculpture 
produced  a  class  of  figures  ahnost  pecuhar  to  Lombardy.  These  are  frequently 
colossal,  of  lions  and  other  animals,  supporting  the  piUars  of  the  portals  of  the 
churches,  or  sepulchral  urns.  In  the  14th  century  several  Tuscan  sculptors 
were  called  in ;  but  there  appear  to  have  been  also  many  Lombards,  though 
few  of  their  names  have  been  preserved,  as  they  do  not  seem  to  have  adopted 
the  custom,  so  much  practised  in  other  parts  of  Italy,  of  inscribing  them ' 
upon  their  works.  The  records  of  the  Certosaof  Pavia,  begun  in  1473,  suddenly 
afford  us  ample  information  respecting  the  artists  employed  upon  that  splendid 
building — Amadeo,  Brioschi,  JEttore  d'Alba,  Antonio  di  Locate,  Battista  and 
Stefano  da  Sesto,  Piontello^  Nava,  Aerate,  Ihisina,  Solan,  and  others ;  but 
without  giving  us  the  means  of  distinguishing,  at  least  in  this  building,  the 
parts  upon  which  they  were  severally  employed.  They  have,  however,  one 
uniform  character,  extraordinary  delicacy  of  fimsh  in  the  details,  and  a  pictorial 
management  of  their  figures  in  bas-rehef ;  so  that  it  seems  as  if  the  works  of 
Mantegna,  or  Pietro  Perugino,  were  transferred  to  marble.  Many  of  these 
sculptors  were  also  architects,  and  in  estimating  the  works  of  this  school  it  must 
be  recollected  that  sculpture  was  seldom  used  by  them  as  a  detached  ornament, 
but  was  always  attached  td  some  architectural  structure. 

The  pride,  however,  of  Lombard  sculpture  is  Agostino  Busti,  also  called 
Bambajay  Bamhara,  or  Zarahaja,  who  flourished  in  the  early  part  of  the  16th 
century;  and  by  whom  the  cinque-cento  style,  or  that  of  the  Renaissance,  was 
carried  to  perfection.  The  minute  ornaments  in  which  he  excelled  are  usually 
arabesques  of  elegant  invention,  intermixed  with  fanciful  ornament — animals, 
weapons,  pieces  of  armour,  flowers,  insects.  Busti  is  supposed  to  have  died 
about  the  year  1540.  Bramhillay  who  worked  some  time  before  the  death  of 
Busti,  has  much  of  his  character.  The  colossal  terms  of  the  Doctors  of  the 
Church  in  Milan  cathedral,  supporting  one  of  the  great  pulpits,  are  by  him : 
his  minuter  ornaments  are  scarcely  inferior  to  those  of  Busti.  The  great 
and  interminable  work  of  the  cathedral  of  Milan,  by  furnishing  constant  employ- 
ment, has  maintained  a  school  of  sculpture  of  considerable  merit,  which  sub- 
sists to  the  present  day.  A  majority  of  the  workmen  and  artists  have  always 
been  from  the  neighbourhood  of  Como,  where  the  profession  has  been  hereditary 
in  famiUes  from  the  time  of  the  Lombards.  In  recent  times  Marchesi  and 
the  Monti  family  have,  given  a  weU-deserved  reputation  to  the  Milanese  school 
of  sculpture. 

The  monuments  of  Roman  architecture  in  the  territory  of  ancient  Lombardy 
are  not  numerous.  Few  of  them  are  in  accordance  with  the  rules  of  clas- 
sical architecture :  the  sculpture  and  the  ornaments  are  indiflerent ;  most  of 
them  belong  to  the  lower  empire,  and  have  what  may  be  considered  a  provincial 
character. 

In  mediseval  architecture  Lombardy  offers  much,  both  in  civil  and  ecclesias- 
tical buildings.  The  town-halls  are  interesting :  they  usually  stand  upon  open 
arches ;  and  above  is  the  Binghiera,  or  balcony,  from  which  the  magistrates 
addressed  the  people. 

Military  architecture  also  exists  in  great  variety — the  rude  towers  of  the 
periods  of  Queen  Theodolinda  or  King  Berengarius  ;  the  castellated  palace  of 
the  Signori,  in  the  ages  of  the  Italian  repubhcs ;  and  the  regular  fortifications 
which,  invented  in  Italy,  have  become  universal  throughout  Europe. 


150 


§  7.  Fine  Arts  of  Lofmbardy. 


Sect.  III. 


The  earlier  Lombard  churches  exhibit  a  very  peculiar  character,  allied  to 
that  Trhich  we  find  in  many  of  those  of  Germany,  especially  near  the  Bhine. 
It  is  yery  marked,  and  will  be  found  to  exist  in  almost  every  structure  of  that 
class.  Of  Pointed  architecture  there  are  two  distinct  styles  :  the  one  simple 
and  bearing  much  analogy  to  the  Italian  Gk)thic  of  Tuscany  ;  the  other  florid 
or  liighly  ornamented  and  introduced  from  Germany :  to  the  latter  belongs 
the  Duomo  of  Milan. 

Many  of  the  Gothic  and  some  of  the  cinque-cento  buildings  are  of  moulded 
brick,  to  ^hich  are  added  terra-cotta  bas-reliefs.  This  kind  of  work  has  been 
carried  to  a  degree  of  excellence  which  can  only  be  appreciated  in  Lombardy. 
.  The  colour  is  a  shade  lighter  than  that  of  our  Tudor  buildings  ;  the  durability 
of  the  material  is  such  as  to  be  nearly  as  lasting  as  marble.  In  the  style  of  the 
Benaissance  Lombardy  excels.  The  works  of  Bramante  and  Solari  are  full  of 
imagination  and  effect.  In  later  times  Falladio  had  comparatiyely  little  influence; 
in  civil  architecture,  the  palaces  of  Milan,  Pavia,  and  Cremona,  are  inferior  to 
those  of  Yicenza  or  Genoa.  At  present  the  most  eminent  architects  have  been 
formed,  either  directly  or  indirectly,  by  the  F^^nch  and  Boman  schools. 

In  the  middle  ages  Lombardy  was  the  great  instructress  of  Christendom  in 
civil  law  and  in  medicine ;  and  in  modem  times  science  has  been  cultivated 
here  with  success ;  while,  in  imaginative  literature,  Monti  was  one  of  the  most 
elegant  of  modem  Italian  poets,  and  the  name  of  Manzoni  is  an  honour,  not 
only  to  Lombardy,  but  to  the  Italian  tongue.  His  historical  novel,  the  Pro- 
messi  Sposi,  should  be  in  the  traveller's  hands  in  his  excursions  in  and  about 
Milan.  It  is  a  real  guide-book  both  to  the  scenery  and  the  history  of  that 
lovely  land. 


EOUTES. 


BOUTE  16. 

FROM  THE  ITALIAN  FRONTIER  ON  THE 
SIMPLON  TO  ARONA  AND  LAGO 
MAGGIORE. 

75  kiL  =  46i  Eng.  m. 

Isella  to  Domo  d'OssoIa     .    .  18  kil. 

„        Vogogna     ....  32  „ 

„        Baveno 56  „ 

H       Arona ?5  „ 

The  Boute  of  the  Simplon  is  de- 
scribed in  the  Handbook  of  Switzerland 
and  Piedmontf  Bte.  59. 

Isella,  the  Italian  frontier  stat.  and 


Custom-house  {Inn:  good  and  clean), 
below  which  the  road  traverses  a  short 
tunnel,  and  farther  down  the  longer 
one  of  Crevola,  and  the  handsome 
bridge  over  the  Doveria:  from  here 
the  traveller  may  suppose  himself  fairly 
in  Italy. 

Domo  d*  Osgola  {Inns :  H.  d'Espagne, 
good  and  clean ;  H.  de  laVille),  a  good- 
sized  town,  where  everything  assumes 
Italian  look.      Curious    Calvary 


an 


above  the  town.  2  diligences  daily  to 
Arona,  and  omnibus  to  Pallanza,  in 
correspondence  with  the  steamers  on 
Lago  Maggiore.  The  Hotel  Albassini, 
outside  Domo,  is  a  good  pension,  and 


LOMBARDY. 


Houte  16. — Monte  Motterone, 


151 


much  frequented  for  its  baths  in  sum- 
mer. On  leaving  D.  the  road  follows 
the  valley  of  the  Toccia,  leaving  the 
river  which  descends  from  the  Val 
Vegezzo  on  1.  A  road  branches  oflf 
on  the  rt.  along  the  Anzasca  to  Pie 
di  Mulera  and  Macugnaga  at  the  foot 
of  Monte  Rosa,  before  reaching 

9  m.  Vogogna  (Inn:  La  Corona, 
fair),  a  considerable  village.  Here 
commences  the  navigation  on  the 
Toccia  to  Lago  Maggiore.  Beyond 
Vogogna,  at  the  hamlet  of  Primosello, 
a  road  branches  off  to  Pallanza,  passing 
along  the  picturesque  Lake  of  Mer- 
gozzo. 

6  m.  beyond  Vogogna  the  road 
passes  through  Ornavasso;  on  the 
opposite  bank  of  the  Toccia  from 
which  are  the  quarries  of  white 
marble  at  La  Gandoglia,  which  have 
furnished  the  material  for  the  Cathe- 
dral of  Milan.  The  marble  here  forms 
a  calcareous  mass  in  the  crystalline 
gneiss  rock,  and  affords  a  good  exam- 
ple of  what  geologists  call  metamor- 
pkiam,  the  conversion  by  heat  or  by 
gaseous  emanations  of  a  sedimentary 
mto  a  crystalline  rock. 

Gravellona,  near  the  junction  of  the 
Strona  from  the  Lake  of  Orta  and  the 
Toccia,  which  here  makes  a  sudden 
bend  round  the  hill  of  Montorfano  on 
the  1.,  c^ebrated  for  its  quarries  of 
white  granite,  used  in  the  construction 
of  the  Basilica  of  St.  Paul's  at  Rome. 

Road  to  Omegna  (5  m.),  at  the  ex- 
tremity of  the  Lake  of  Orta,  where 
boats  can  be  hired  for  Orta. 

On  leaving  Gravellona  cross  the 
handsome  bridge  over  the  Strona,  and 
3  m.  farther,  after  leaving  the  road  to 
Pallanza  on  1.,  reach 

Fariolo  (Inn:  Lion  d'Or,  fair,  at- 
tentive landlord).  Here  the  L#ago 
Maggiore  bursts  into  view :  the  Isola 
Madre,  the  northernmost  of  the  Bor- 
romean  Islands,  seen  in  the  distance. 
The  steamers  call  here  once  a  day,  at 
10*50  a.m.,  on  their  way  to  Arona, 
and  at  1*40  p.m.  to  the  upper  part  of 
the  lake.  Between  Fariolo  and  Ba- 
veno  the  road  follows  the  water's  edge, 
passing  the  quarries  of  red  granite, 
so  extensively  used  in  the  public 
edifices  of  Milan,  Turin,  &c. 


JSaveno  (Inns :  Hotel  Bellevue,  first- 
rate  ;  H.  de  la  Poste,  much  improved), 
in  a  lovely  situation  opposite  the  Bor- 
romean  Islands,  from  which  it  is  about 
3  m.  distant.  The  steamers  call  off 
here  in  the  morning  and  afternoon  for 
Arona  and  the  upper  parts  of  the  lake. 
Boats  may  be  hired  for  the  Borromean 
Islands :  fares  according  to  a  printed 
tariff.  There  are  several  handsome 
villas  here — of  the  Countess  CoUegno, 
the  Marquis  Durazzo,  &c.,  the  place 
being  much  frequented  in  summer. 
Baveno  will  be  the  best  place  to  start 
from  for  the  ascent  of 

The  Monte  Motterone  or  Margozzolo, 
sometimes  called  Monterone,  rising  be- 
hind the  village,  commands  a  fine 
panoramic  view  of  the  Alps,  and  has 
at  its  base  the  Lago  d'Orta  on  one 
side,  and  Lago  Maggiore  on  the  other. 
Asses  are  kept  for  the  ascent.  It  will 
take  4  hrs.  from  Baveno  to  reach  the 
top,  4816  ft  above  the  sea-level,  and 
4136  above  the  Lago  Maggiore. 

The  mule-path  from  Baveno  to  the 
Motterone,  passing  through  woods  of 
chesnut-trees  during  the  lower  part 
of  the  ascent,  is  carried  over  a  neck 
of  the  mountain  a  long  way  below  the 
summit,  which  is  reached  by  a  steep 
climb  up  the  grassy  slope.  At  the  base 
of  the  ascent  are  several  dairy-farms 
or  ch&lets,  where  the  traveller  can 
obtain  refreshment  in  the  shape  of 
excellent  cream,  milk,  cheese,  &c. 
It  will  take  3  hrs.  to  descend  to  Orta, 
and  require  nearly  6  hrs.  for  a  fair 
walker  to  take  this  walk  from  Baveno 
to  Orta  and  enjoy  the  view. 

The  view  from  the  summit  of  the 
Monte  Motterone  is  one  of  the  most 
extensive  on  the  S.  declivity  of  the 
Alps.  The  Mont  Blanc,  the  Combin, 
and  the  Mont  Cervin,  are  hidden  by 
the  nearer  hills  of  the  Val  Sesia  and 
by  the  Mcnte  Rosa.  The  line  of 
snowy  peaks  to  rt.  of  the  latter,  em- 
bracing Cima  de  Jazi,  Fletschhorn, 
Monte  Leone,  and  Bortelhorn,  appears 
to  great  advantage.  Farther  E.  rise 
the  peaks  and  glacers  that  lie  on  either 
side  of  the  ^^rnardin  and  Spliigen 
passes,  and  in  the  farther  distance  the 
great  mass  of  the  Bernina  Alps.  Almost 
at  his  feet  the  traveller  sees  5  lakes — 


152 


Route  16. — Stresa — Arona. 


Sect.  III. 


the  Maggiore,  the  Lake  of  Orta,  those 
of  Monato,  Comabbio,  and  Varese ;  and 
still  farther  to  the  rt.  the  great  plain  of 
Lombardy  and  of  Piedmont,  studded 
with  innumerable  villages,  with  Milan 
in  the  centre,  whose  cathedral  is  dis- 
tinctly visible.  The  two  great  tributa- 
ries of  the  Po,  the  Sesia  and  the  Ticino, 
appear  like  silver  ribbons  traversing 
the  dark  ground  of  the  plain,  and 
the  distant  Apennines  of  Parma  and 
Modena  close  this  unrivalled  pano- 
rama to  the  S.,  whilst  the  plain  of 
Lombardy  stretches  afar  to  the  E.  till 
it  is  lost  in  the  horizon.  The  descent 
from  the  Motterone  to  Orta  will  require 
3  hrs.  at  least.  Here  the  tourist  can 
proceed  by  boat  or  car  to  Omegna, 
2  hrs.  walk  from  Baveno.  (See  Kte. 
118.) 

From  Baveno  the  Simplon  road  con- 
tinues close  to  the  water's  edge,  pass- 
ing the  Borromeo  stables,  the  nearest 
point  of  the  continent  to  the  Isola 
Bella  (i  m.),  a  mile  beyond  which  is 

Stresdj  a  good-sized  village  in  one 
of  the  most  beautiful  situations  on  the 
Lago  Maggiore,  with  a  first-rate  hotel, 
JET.  des  lies  Borromees,  a  most  agree- 
able summer  residence,  with  every 
comfort.  Protestant  Service  twice  a 
day  on  Sundays  during  the  summer, 
in  a  large  room  of  the  hotel  set  aside  for 
the  purpose.  There  are  several  hand- 
some villas  about  here:  that  of  the 
Duchess  of  Genoa,  at  the  entrance  to 
the  town;  of  the  Princess  Mathilde 
Bonaparte  DemidofiF  beyond,  &c.  Above 
Stresa  is  a  large  conventual  establish- 
ment of  monks  of  the  Bosminian  or- 
der; a  good  monument  by  the  Swiss 
sculptor  Vela  in  the  ch.  Boats  for  the 
Borromean  Islands :  fares  according  to 
a  printed  tariff.  The  Monte  Motte- 
rone may  also  be  ascended  from  this, 
passing  through  chesnut  woods  for 
one-half  of  the  excursion.  All  the 
steamers  call  at  Stresa,  where  there  is 
a  good  landing-pier. 

The  drive  from  Stresa  to  Arona  is 
beautiful,  passing  close  to  the  lake, 
often  on  raised  terraces,  by 

Belgirate,  a  pretty  town,  much  fre- 
quented as  a  villegiatura  residence  in 
summer  and  autumn,  with  many  hand- 
some villas  of  the  Milanese  and  Genoese 


aristocracy :  Lesa,  the  residence  of  the 
celebrated  novelist  Manzoni;  Mena; 
at  all  which  places  the  steamers  stop 
to  land  and  take  in  passengers. 

From  here  the  statue  of  San  Carlo 
appears  upon  the  hills  on  the  rt.  The 
views  over  the  E.  shore  of  the  lake, 
extending  from  the  pointed  mountain 
of  Laveno  to  the  less  elevated  one  of 
Angera,  are  beautiful.  Before  reach- 
ing Arona,  the  road  passes  at  the  foot 
of  a  precipitate  hill,  where  are  quar- 
ries of  dolomitic  limestone. 

Arona  {Inns:  Albergo  d'ltalia; 
Posta,  near  the  stat. — both  good ;  A. 
Reale),  an  ancient  and  rapidly  im- 
proving town  of  4000  luhab.  It  is 
built  on  the  very  margin  of  the  lake. 
The  Simplon  road  runs  through  the 
town.  All  the  steamers  touch  here 
3  times  a  day  in  summer,  at  5*35  a.m., 
12*10  and  3*20  p.m.,  for  the  upper  part 
of  the  lake,  and  at  12*30  and  5*45  p.m. 
for  Sesto,  and  carrij^ges  can  be  em- 
barked. By  rail  from  Arona  to  No- 
varay  travellers  can  reach  Genoa  in 
5,  Turin  in  5,  and  Milan  in  3  hrs. ; 
by  Sesto  to  Milan  in  3J,  including 
transit  in  steamer  and  detention  at 
Sesto.  The  stat.  is  close  to  the  steam- 
boat pier.  In  consequence  of  this  rail- 
way and  the  improvements  of  the  har- 
bour, Arona  has  become  the  great 
entrepdt  between  Genoa  and  Switzer- 
land, and  a  very  thriving  place. 

The  principal  Ch,  (Santa  Maria) 
contains  a  picture  attributed  to  Gau- 
denzio  Ferrari — a  Holy  Family,  with 
shutters  painted  with  figures  of  saints, 
and  the  portrait  of  a  Countess  Borromeo, 
by  whom  it  was  presented  to  the  ch. 
San  Carlo  Borromeo  was  bom  in  the 
old  castle  above  Arona,  the  feudal  seat 
of  his  family,  1538  ;  destroyed  by  the 
French  1797. 

On  a  hill,  about  half  an  hour's  walk 
from  the  town,  stands  the  Colossal 
Statue  of  San  Carlo  Borromeo,  66  ft. 
high,  and  placed  on  a  pedestal  40  ft. 
high.  The  head,  hands,  and  feet, 
alone,  are  cast  in  bronze ;  the  rest  of 
the  figure  is  formed  of  sheets  of  beaten 
copper,  arranged  round  a  pillar  of 
rough  masonry  which  forms  the  sup- 
port of  it.  The  saint  is  represented 
extending  his  hand  towards  the  lake. 


LOMBARDY. 


Route  16.—^Lago  Maggwre. 


153 


and  over  his  birthplace,  bestowing  his 
benediction.  There  is  grace  in  the  atti- 
tude, in  spite  of  the  gigantic  proportions 
of  the  figure,  and  benevolence  beams 
from  the  countenance;  altogether  the 
effect  of  it  is  good  and  impressive.  It 
was  erected,  1697,  by  subscriptions, 
principally  contributed  by  the  Borro- 
mean  family.  It  is  possible  to  enter 
the  statue  and  to  mount  up  into  the 
head,  but  the  ascent  is  difficult,  and 
not  to  be  attempted  by  the  nervous. 
It  is  effected  by  means  of  two  ladders 
tied  together  (provided  by  a  man  who 
lives  hard  by),  resting  on.  the  pe- 
destal, and  reaching  up  to  the  skirt 
of  the  saint's  robe.  Between  the  folds 
of  the  upper  and  lower  drapery  the 
adventurous  climber  squeezes  himself 
through— a  task  of  some  difficulty  if 
he  be  of  corpulent  dimensions;  and 
he  then  clambers  up  the  stone  pillar 
which  supports  the  head,  by  placing 
his  feet  upon  the  iron  bars  or  cramps 
by  which  the  copper  drapery  is  at- 
tached to  it.  To  effect  this,  he  must 
assume  a  straddling  attitude,  and  pro- 
ceed in  the  dark  till  he  reaches  the 
head,  which  he  will  find  capable  of 
holding  3  persons.  Here  he  may  rest 
himself  by  sitting  down  in  the  recess 
of  the  nose,  which  forms  no  bad  sub- 
stitute for  an  arm-  chair.  In  the 
neighbouring  church  several  relics  of 
San  Carlo  are  preserved.  ' 

From  the  top  of  la  Rocca,  a  hill 
above  Arona,  there  is  a  fine  view. 
The  geologist  will  find  near  the  quar- 
ries of  limestone  (dolomite)  an  inte- 
resting contact  of  the  magnesian  lime- 
stone and  red  porphyry. 

Opposite  Arona,  on  the  other  side 
of  the  lake,  stands  the  Castle  o/Angera, 
a  fief  of  the  Borromeos,  on  a  similar 
dolomitic  limestone  peak,  at  the  foot 
of  which  is  the  neat  modern  village 
of  the  same  name. 

Remains  of  lake  dwellings  have  been 
dug  up  on  the  marshy  ground  near 
Mercurago,  S.  of  Arona. 

Diligences  daily  from  Arona  to  Domo 
d'Ossola  and  Brieg  over  the  Simplon, 
to  Sion  and  Lausanne. 

Good  carriage-roads  leads  from 
Arona  to  Orta  {Handbook  of  Switzer- 
land   and   Piedmont,    Rte.    118),    15 


kil.  =  9j  m. — an  omnibus  daily ;  and  to 
Borgomanero  on  the  rly.  from  Orta  to 
Novara. 


Lago  Magoiore. 

The  Lago  Maggiore^  Lacus  Verbanus 
of  the  Romans,  is  680  ft.  above  the  sea, 
and  about  54  m.  long,  and  3  m.  wide 
at  its  greatest  breadth  between  Baveno 
and  Laveno.  Only  a  small  portion  at 
its  N.  extremity  belongs  to  Switzer- 
land. About  7  m.  S.  of  Locarno,  the 
Italian  frontier  commences.  The  na- 
vigation of  the  lake  is  free  to  both 
states.  The  3  chief  rivers  by  which 
it  is  fed  are  the  Ticino,  flowing  from 
the  St.  Gothard  and  Bernardino ;  the 
Tresa,  which  drains  the  Lago  Lu- 
gano ;  and  the  Toccia,  descending  from 
Domo  d'Ossola.  The  scenery  of  its 
upper  end  is  bold  and  mountainous, 
and  at  the  same  time  diversified  by  a 
constant  succession  of  striking  and 
beautifiil  features ;  so  is  the  bay  of 
Baveno  (to  call  by  that  name  the  W. 
arm,  containing  the  Borromean  Is- 
lands); but,  towards  the  S.  and  E., 
its  shores  are  less  lofty,  subsiding  gra- 
dually into  the  plain  of  Lombardy. 
There  is  a  great  variety  of  fish :  the 
fishery  is  the  property  of  the  Borromeo 
family. 

The  voyage  up  and  down  the  lake  is 
delightfdl,  and  the  scenery  exquisite. 
The  sides  are  so  precipitous  in  some 
parts  that  there  is  scarcely*  a  path  along 
them.  Villages  and  churches  are^ 
however,  perched  on  the  heights ;  and 
wherever  a  deposit  has  been  formed  in 
the  lake  by  a  torrent,  a  village  will  be 
found. 

Arona  will  be  the  best  point  from 
which  the  tour  of  the  lake  can  be 
commenced ;  we  shall  therefore  notice  , 
the  principal  places  on  its  shores^  in 
the  ascending  order,  and  supposing  the 
traveller  employing  the  steamer. 

Leaving  Arona,  the  boat  coasts  along 
the  W.  side  of  the  lake,  calling  to  land 
passengers  at 

4  kil.  MeinaCW,)  ;* 

5  kil.  Lesa  (W.)  ; 

2  kil.  Belgirate  (W.) ;  and 
5  kil.  Stresa  (W.),  already  noticed. 
•  W.  west,  E.  cast  shores. 

H  3 


lU 


Route  IS.^^Borfomean  Islands. 


Sect,  nii 


From  Stresa  the  distance  to  the 
Isola  Bella,  the  principal  of  the  Borro- 
mean  Islands,  is  less  than  a  mile,  where 
passengers  are  landed  opposite  the 
palace.  There  is  a  very  good  and  quiet 
mn  here,  the  Delfino,  kept  by  the  same 
proprietors  as  the  larger  hosteliy  at 
Stresa. 

1  kil.  Borromean  IsUuids.  Under 
this  name  are  comprised  4  islands  in 
the  'W.  bay  of  the  Lago  Maggiore 
(or  in  what  may  be  called  the  Bay 
of  the  Islands):  the  Isola  Bella,  the 
Isola  Madre,  the  Isola  di  San  Gio- 
yanni,  near  Pallanza,  the  3  latter  be- 
longing to  the  Borromeo  family,  and  the 
Isola  dei  Piscatori,  inhabited  chiefly 
by  fishermen,  or  by  £eimilies  ori- 
ginally of  the  Island,  who,  having 
emigrated  and  become  rich,  have  built 
for  themselves  a  retreat  €or  their  latter 
days. 

The  Isola  Bella  (passengers  are 
conveyed  free  of  charge  to  and  from 
the  'steamers,  as  at  all  the  stations  on 
the  lake)  belongs  to  the  Count  Borro- 
meo, who  resides  a  part  of  the  year  in 
the  vast  palace.  An  ancestor  of  the 
family,  in  1671,  converted  this  mass 
of  bare  and  barren  slate-rock,  which 
lifted  itself  above  the  surface  of 
the  lake,  into  a  beautiful  garden,  teem- 
ing with  the  vegetation  of  the  tropics. 
It  consists  of  terraces,  the  lowest 
founded  on  piers  thrown  into  the  lake, 
rising  in  a  pyramidal  form  one  above 
another,  and. lined  with  statues,  vases, 
obelisks,  and  cypresses.  Upon  these, 
as  upon  the  hanging-gardens  of  Baby- 
lon, flourish  in  the  open  air,  not  merely 
the  orange,  citron,  myrtle,  and  pome- 
granate, but  aloes,  cactuses,  the  cam- 
phor and  sassafras  trees  (of  which 
there  are  specimens  40  ft.  high), 
several  species  of  metrosideros  and 
other  Australian  plants — and  this  with- 
in a  few  hours'  journey  of  the  LApland 
climate  of  the  Simplon,  and  within 
view  of  Alpine  snows. 

The  opinions  of  travellers  are  not 
unanimous  in  their  admiration  of  this 
lovely  spot.  Matthews  extols  it  as 
"the  magic  creation  of  labour  and 
taste  ...  a  fairy-land,*  which  might 
serve  as  a  model  for  the  gardens  of 
Calypso ; "  Saussure  calls  it  "  un  mag- 


nifique  caprice,  une  pens^  ^andiose, 
one  esp^ce  de  creation ;  **  Gibbon  **  an 
enchanted  palace,  a  work  of  the 
fairies,  in  a  lake  accompanied  with 
mountains."  To  taste  it  may  have 
little  pretension ;  but,  for  a  traveller 
fresh  from  the  rigid  climate  of  the 
north,  this  singular  creation  of  art, 
with  its  aromatic  groves,  its  aloes  and 
cactuses  starting  out  of  the  rocks — and, 
above  all,  its  glorious  situation,  bathed 
by  the  dark  blue  waters  of  the  lake, 
reflecting  the  sparkling  white  villages 
on  its  banks,  and  the  distant  snows  of 
the  Alps — cannot  fail  to  afford  pleasure, 
and  a  visit  to  the  Isola  Bella  will  not 
be  repented  of. 

Every  handful  of  mould  on  the 
island  was  originally  brought  from  a 
distance.  It  is  probable  that  its  foun- 
dation of  gneiss  and  mica  slate-rock 
favours  the  growth  of  tender  plants  by 
long  retaining  the  heat  of  a  noonday 
sun ;  but  few  persons  are  aware  thal^ 
in  addition  to  this,  the  walls  of  the 
terraces,  on  which  grow  the  lemon 
and  orange  trees,  are  boarded  over 
during  winter  to  protect  them.  The 
orange  and  lemon  blossoms  perfume 
the  air  to  some  distance.  The  pano- 
rama from  the  upper  platform  over  t^e 
lake,  and  up  the  valley  towards  the 
Simplon,  is  beautiful. 

A  laurel  (bay)  of  gigantic  size  is 
pointed  out,  as  well  for  its  remarkable 
growth  as  for  a  scar  on  its  bark,  where 
Napoleon,  it  is  said,  cut  with  a  knife 
the  word  "battaglia,"  a  short  while 
before  the  battle  of  Marengo.  Rous- 
seau once  thought  of  making  the 
Isola  Bella  the  residence  of  his  Julie, 
but  changed  his  mind  on  reflecting 
that  so  artificial  an  abode  would  not 
be  consistent  with  the  simplicity  of 
her  character. 

The  Palaccy  which,  with  the  gar- 
dens, is  libersilly  shown  to  strangers 
at  all  times  by  permission  of  its 
owner,  contains  a  gallery  of  pictures, 
amongst  which  are  some  good  works 
by  the  Procaccini,  a  Charity  of  And, 
Sacchif  &c.  In  another  part  of  it  are  a 
suite  of  rooms  with  50  landscapes  by 
Tempesta,  who  found  a  shelter  here 
when  obliged  to  conceal  himself  for  his 
misdeeds.    In  the  Chapel  are  3  fine 


LombaedV. 


Hoiite  16. — PaUanza — Luino, 


155 


sepulchral  monuments  of  the  Borromeo 
&mily»  removed  from  churches  in 
Milan  at  the  time  of  the  Cisalpine 
republic  :  one,  of  the  1 5th  cent,  was 
intended  to  hold  the  relics  of  St.  Gius- 
tina,  an  ancestress  of  the  Borromeos ; 
another,  on  the  rt.  of  the  altar,  is  hj 
Ant.  Busti,  and  is  praised  by  VasarL 
The  large  unfinished  building  which 
separates  the  two  wings  of  the  palace 
was  intended  for  a  great  central  hall 
and  staircase,  but  has  never  been 
covered  in. 

The  Isola  Madre  is  well  worth  a  visit 
hj  the  horticulturist ;  from  its  greater 
distance  from  the  mountains,  which 
screen  the  sun  earlier  from  the  Isola 
Bella,  it  enjoys  a  milder  climate  in 
winter.  The  plants  of  New  Holland 
grow  luxuriantly  out  of  doors;  the 
two  species  of  tea  are  generally  in 
flower  in  October.  The  Chilian  and 
Brazilian  Araucarias  attain  a  great 
size ;  tropical  plants  grow  luxuriantly 
on  the  rocks  around;  on  the  island 
are  many  pheasants,  a  rare  sight  in 
Italy,  these  birds  being  as  it  were  im- 
prisoned, from  their  inability  by  flight 
to  gain  the  opposite  shores.  There  is 
nothing  to  interest  the  traveller  in  the 
large  (palace,  which  is  but  partially 
furnished.  Near  it  is  an  elegant  sepul- 
chral chapel  for  the  family,  recently 
erected. 

The  small  island  of  St,  Giovanni, 
forming  the  4th  of  the  Borromean 
group,  is  situated  near  Pallanza;  it 
offers  nothing  remarkable. 

From  Isola  Bella  the  steamer  passes 
before 

3  kil.  Baveno  (W.),  and  3  kil. 
FariolOf  already  noticed,  and  then 
along  the  N.  shore  of  the  Bay  of  the 
Islands,  passing  before  Suna  to 

7  kil.  Pallanza  (W.)  (Inn :  TUnivers, 
good) ;  a  large  town  of  4000  Inhab., 
and  chief  town  'of  the  district,  being 
the  residence  of  the  sub-prefect.  It 
contains  a  large  model  prison  for  male 
convicts.  There  is  a  nursery-garden 
of  some  local  celebrity  near  the  town. 
A  road  from  Pallanza  to  Gravellona 
and  the  Simplon,  with  an  omnibus  daily 
to  Domo  d'Ossolo,  passing  near  the 
pretty  lake  of  Mergozzo  and  the  granite 
quarries  of  Montorfano,  both  worthy 


of  a  visit.  There  is  also  an  omnibus 
daily  to  Omegna,  on  the  Lake  of  Orta  ; 
from  Pallanza  to  Intra,  a  pretty  walk 
over  the  peninsula  (1  m.).  Leaving 
Pallanza,  we  round  the  point,  behind 
which  is 

4  kil.  Intra  (W.)  (all  the  Inns  in- 
different: Veau,  and  Leone  d'Oro), 
a  large  and  thriving  town,  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Val  Intrasca.  There  are  several 
manufactories  here  of  iron,  cotton, 
glass,  and  especially  extensive  works 
for  winding  silk  from  the  cocoons,  the 
motive  power  being  supplied  by  the 
large  torrent  which  here  empties 
itself  into  the  Lago  Maggiore.  A  new 
road  in  progress  along  the  shore  to- 
wards Locarno.  From  Intra  the 
steamer  crosses  the  lake,  here  2^  m. 
wide,  to 

4  kil.  Laveno  (W.)  (see  Rte.  18).  The 
E.  shore  of  the  lake,  between  Laveno 
and  An^era,  presents  little  interest  for 
the  tourist,  the  only  place  worth  visiting 
being  the  ch.  of  Santa  Caterina.  The 
country  about  Ispra  is  rich  in  mulberry 
plantations.  Public  conveyances  from 
Laveno  to  Varese  and  Como.  4  m.  N. 
of  Laveno,  on  the  same  side,  is 

9  kil.  Porto,  near  which  extensive 
lime-works.  From  here  we  cross  the 
lake  to 

7  kil.  Ogehbio  (W.),  beyond  which 
is  the  villa  of  the  celebrated  writer 
and  statesman.  Marquis  Massimo 
Azeglio,  one  of  the  most  brilliant  orna- 
ments of  united  Italy ;  before  reach- 
ing    . 

,5  kil.  Cannero  (W.),  lying  off  which 

are  two  islands,  fiefs  of  the  Borromeos  : 
upon  one  of  them  is  a  ruined  strong- 
hold, which  in  the  15th  centy.  was 
held  by  the  robber  brothers  Maz- 
zarda,  locally  celebrated  for  their 
marauding  expeditious.  Opposite  to 
Cannero  is 

5  kil.  Luino  (E.)  Inn :  La  Beccaccia, 
very  fair,  civil  people),  a  'good^sized 
village,  where  the  river  Tresa,  the 
natural  emissary  of  the  Lake  of 
Lugano,  empties  itself.  The  prin- 
cipal celebrity  of  the  place  is  derived 
from  its  being  the  birthplace  of  the 
painter  Bernardino  Luini  (one  of  the 
great  masters  of  the  early  Lombard 
school  of  painting).  A  lovely  road  of  1 4 


156 


Moute  16. — Locarno — Magadmo, 


Sect.  111. 


m.  leads  from  here  to  Lugano,  -which, 
after  asceuding  the  hills,  follows  the 
direction  of  the  river  Tresa  through  a 
beautiful  valley,  and  entering  the  Swiss 
territon^  3  m.  beyond  Luino  (see 
Swiss  Handbook,  Rte.  11 5).  There  are 
conveyances  for  Lugano  in  correspond- 
ence with  the  arrival  of  the  steamers ; 
a  carriage  with  two  horses  may  be 
hired  for  15  frs. 

5  -kil.  Macagno  (E.),  at  almost  the 
naiTowest  portion  of  the  Lago  Mag- 
giore. 

7  kil.  Canohhio  (W.)  {Inn,  H.  Bissone, 
fair),  at  the  entranceof  the  ValleCanob- 
biana :  there  is  a  ch.  here,  said  to  be 
from  the  designs  of  Bramante, 

6  kil.  Brissago  (W.),  a  pretty  spot. 
Here  we  are  in  the  Swiss  portion  of 
the  Lake.  B.  is  remarkable  for  its 
clean  appearance,  and  a  fine  ayenue 
of  cypresses  leading  to  its  ch.  on  the 
side  of  the  hill. 

15  kil.  Zenna  (E.),  nearly  on  the 
line  of  the  Italo-Swiss  frontier,  but 
Italian.  Here  the  lake  widens,  and 
attains  perhaps  its  greatest  breadth 
between  Ronco  and  Gera, 

6  kil.  Ascona  (W.),  surmounted  by  a 
ruined  mediseyal  castle. 

5  kil.  Locarno  (W.)  ( luns :  la  Corona, 
on^  the  lake,  very  fair ;   the  Albergo 
Suizzero,  in  the  town,  second-rate) ;  a 
good-sized    town,   with    nearly    3000 
Inhab.,at  the  embouchure  of  the  great 
Val  Maggia,  and  of  the  large  water- 
course that  descends  from  it  into  the 
Lago  Maggiore.     Locarno  is  one  of  the 
3  capitals  of  the  Swiss  canton  of  the 
Tessia,  the  others  being  Lugano  and 
Bellinzona.    It  is  in  a  lovely  situation, 
and  to  be  preferred,  as  a  residence  for 
tourists   in  the   adjoining   valleys,  to 
Magadino.    Locarno  is  a  very  thriving 
place,  being  one  of  the  principal  entre- 
pots for  merchandise  between  Switzer- 
land and  N.W.  Italy,  surrounded  by 
orange  and  lemon  groves,  and  a  luxu- 
riant vegetation ;  the  landscape  about  is 
quite  Italian.    There  are  remains  of  an 
old  castle :  the  Government  House,  the 
residence  of  the  cantonal  authorities 
whilst  located  at  Locarno,  is  in  the 
midst  of  a  pretty  square.    There  are 
several  churches  and  convents.    The 
Madonna  del  Sasso,  a  mile  above  the  | 


town,  is  approached  by  a  Calvary,  with 
stations  of  our  Lord's  Passion:  the 
panorama  from  the  portico  of  the  ch.  is 
magnificent,  especially  the  view  up  the 
valley  of  the  Ticino.  There  are  some 
paintings  attributed  to  B.  Luini  in 
the  interior.  10  minutes  higher  up 
is  the  Monte  de  la  Trinita,  from  which 
the  view  is  glorious.  The  ch.  of  St. 
Antonio,  in  the  town,  was  in  1863  the 
scene  of  a  frightful  calamity,  by  the 
falling  in  of  the  roof  from  the  weight 
of  the  snow  upon  it  during  Divine 
service,  when  47  persons  perished. 
Excursions  may  be  made  from  Locarno 
up  the  Val  Maggia  to  Cevio  and  the 
Val  Lavizzara.  ( See  ff.  of  SwU  zerland , 
Rte.  114.)  The  direct  road  from  Lo- 
carno to  Bellinzona  passes  through 
Minusio,  situated  at  the  very  northern- 
most point  of  the  lake,  from  which  it 
fuUows  the  rt.  bank  of  the  Ticino  to 
Monte  Carasso,  2  m.  from  Bellinzona. 
5  kil.  Magadino  (E.)  (f»n,  U  Belvi- 
dere,  not  very  good),  the  point  of  depar- 
ture of  the  steamers  in  the  downward 
voyage,  which,  during  the  summer 
months,  leave  at  4,  6*30,  and  11*30 
a.m. ;  a  miserable  place,  in  the  Delta 
of  the  Ticino,  where  it  empties  itself 
into  the  lake,  and  hence  unhealthy  in 
the  summer  and  autumn,  so  that  the 
shorter  time  travellers  remain  here 
the  better.  Since  the  opening  of  the 
navigation  by  steam,  and  of  the  rly., 
from  difierent  parts  of  Italy  to  Arona, 
Magadino  has  become  a  place  of  con- 
siderable importance  as  an  entrepot 
for  the  trade  in  Switzerland.  It  is 
9  m.  from  Bellinzona,  by  which  pub- 
lic conveyances  run  in  correspondence 
with  all  the  steamers.  An  omnibus 
starts  to  convey  passengers  to  join  the 
diligences  at  Bellinzona  over  the  St. 
Gothard  to  Lucerne,  and  over  the  Ber- 
nardin  pass  to  Coire  and  Zurich,  at 
8-15  a.m.,  arriving  from  these  same 
places  at  4  a.m.,  so  that  travellers  can 
reach  Milan,  Turin,  and  Genoa  about 
1  p.m. 

ynOV.   THE  LAGO  MAaaiOB£  TO 
HILAy. 

As  a  largo  proportion  of  travellers 
whovisit  Northern  Italy  arrive  by  way  of 


LOMBARDY. 


Route  17. — Sesto  CcHende  to  Milan. 


1S7 


th6  Simplon,  the  St.  Gl-othaa^,  and  the 
Bemardmo  passes  from  Switzerland, 
they  will  find  it  convenient  to  exa- 
mine the  shores  of  the  Lago  Maggiore 
before  entering  Lombardy,  by  stopping 
at  Bareno,  or  at  Stresa,  at  which  there 
are  good  inns — the  Bellerue  at  Baveno, 
the  H6tel  dea  lies  Borromees  (new 
and  excellent)  at  Stresa,  and  Delfino 
at  the  Isola  Bella.  "We  will  suppose 
therefore  that  the  tourist,  after  having 
visited  the  great  attractions  of  the 
Lago  Maggiore,  the  Borromean  Islands, 
wishes  to  proceed  into  Lombardy :  for 
this  purpose  he  may  choose  between 
three  routes,  by  rly.  from  Sesto  Ca- 
lende,  and  from  Arona  through  Novara 
to  Milan,  the  most  expeditious,  or  by 
the  more  agreeable  one  through  Laveno, 
Varese,  and  Oomo;  by  adopting  the 
latter  he  will  be  able  to  visit  the  Lake 
of  Como  and  its  magnificent  scenery. 


EOUTE  17. 

SESTO  CALEITDE,  ON  lAOO  MAGGIOBE, 
TO  MILAN. 

36  m.  by  Bail. 

Bailway  from  Arona  to  Borgo  Ticino 
(employing  J  hr.),  from  which  an 
omnibus  runs  to  the  ferry-boat  at 
Sesto,  and  two  steamers  daily  between 
Arona  and  Sesto.  The  rly.  from  Sesto 
by  G-allarate,  and  from  Novara  to 
Milan,  will  afford  the  most  direct  means 
(in  about  3^  hrs.  each  way)  of  reaching 
the  Lombard  capital  from  the  shores 
of  the  Lago  Maggiore.  See  Btes.  2 
and  6. 

There  are  three  lines  of  steamers  daily 
ascending  and  descending  the  Lake, 
all  in  correspondence  with  the  rly.  trains 
to  and  from  Milan,  G-enoa,  and  Turin ; 
but  as  their  hours  of  starting  vary  with 
the  season,  the  traveller  must  have  re- 
course to  the  local  time-tables  for  the 


necessary  information.  These  boats 
belong  to  the  Sardinian  Government 
and  are  well  appointed.  All,  both  in 
ascending  and'  descending,  stop  off  the 
Borromean  Islands  to  land  passengers. 
Steamer  in  J  hr.  to 

Sesto  Calende.  {Inn;  LaPo8ta,very 
indifferent.)  Rly.  for  Gallarate  and 
Milan  3  times  a-day,  in  correspond- 
ence with  the  steamers  that  leave 
Arona  at  12*30  and  5-15  p.m.  The 
distance,  about  36  English  miles,  re* 
quires  2  hrs.  Except  the  medieval 
church  of  San  Donato,  there  is  no- 
thing to  detain  the  traveller  at  Sesto. 

On  leaving  Sesto  the  carriage-road 
crosses  the  plain  of  the  Ticino  by  a  very 
gradual  rise  to  the  foot  of  the  hills  of 
La  Somma,  as  we  approach  which  large 
deposits  of  erratic  blocks  are  seen  on 
either  side :  the  village  of  Somma  is 
situated  on  the  top  of  this  ridge,  500 
feet  above  the  Lago  Maggiore.  The 
view  of  the  chain  of  the  Alps,  and  of 
Monte  Bosa  in  particular,  from  here 
and  during  the  ascent  from  Sesto,  is 
magnificently  grand.  There  is  a  me- 
dieval castle  bearing  the  arms  of  the 
Yiscontis  at  Somma;  but  the  object 
most  interesting  is  an  enormous  cy- 
press-tree, so  old  as  to  be  said  to  date 
from  the  time  of  Julius  OsBsar.  It  is 
in  an  angle  formed  by  the  bend  of  the 
road,  which  Napoleon  is  said  to  have 
caused  to  be  diverted  from  its  straight 
course  in  order  to  prevent  the  destruc- 
tion of  the  tree,  at  first  decided  on  by 
his  engineers.  It  was  in  this  neigh- 
bourhood that  took  place  the  battle 
between  Scipio  and  Hannibal,  wherein 
the  latter  was  victorious. 

Somma  Stat.  The  town  is  situated 
at  the  top  of  a  ridge  parallel  to  the 
course  of  the  Ticino,  consisting  of 
sand  and  gravel,  with  huge  boulders, 
and  which,  from  its  elevation,  cannot 
be  irrigated.  In  many  parts  it  forms 
a  waste,  covered  with  he-ath,  and 
known  as  the  Bnigniera  of  Somma 
and  Gallarate.  Efforts  have  been 
made  at  different  times  to  bring  it 
into  cultivation,  but  to  little  purpose. 
A   plan    has    been    recently  brought 


158 


Houie  l&.^La'deno  to  VareU  and  Corno, 


Sect.  lit. 


forward  to  convey  a  canal  of  irrigation 
from  the  Lake  of  Lugano,  the  only  one 
of  the  great  Alpine  re8ervou*s  whose 
superior  level  would  allow  of  its  waters 
reaching  here.  Of  late  years  a  military 
camp,  hke  our  Aldershott,  has  been 
established  in  this  ndghbourhood, 
where  large  bodies  of  troops  are  exer- 
cised during  the  summer  months. 

The  rly.,  nearly  parallel  to  the  car- 
riage-road, passes  through  some  deep 
cuttings  before  reaching 

k2.  Gallarat€y  a  large  town  on  the 
eastern  side  of  the  Somma  hills,  at  the 
commencement  of  the  fertile  region 
that  extends  to  Milan ;  good  roads 
branch  oflF  from  here  to  Varese  on  the 
N.,  and  the  Kly.  (25  m.)  to  Milan, 
through  Busto  Arsizio,  8  kil. ;  Leg- 
nano,  13  kil. ;  Farabiago,  18  kil. ;  Bho, 
26  kil.,  where  it  joins  the  great  line 
from  Turin  to  Milan  (Kte.  2).  The 
district  over  which  this  short  line 
passes,  bordering  on  the  Olona^  is  ex- 
tremely rich  in  an  agricultural  point  of 
view,  being  carefully  cultivated  in  mul- 
berry-trees, Indian  com,  and  pastur- 
age. At  Busto  Arsizio,  a  lai^  town, 
is  a  church,  built  from  the  designs  of 
Bramant«,  which  contains  some  fres- 
coes by  Gaudenzio  Ferrari. 

Rho^  near  the  confluence  of  the  Lura 
and  Olonna;  the  branch  line  from 
Gallarate  joins  here  the  principal  trunk 
from  Novara  to  Milan.  There  is  a 
large  church  designed  by  Pellegrini. 
From  here  the  country  is  one  con- 
tinuous garden  of  mulberry  -  trees, 
maize-fields,  and  meadows,  until  at  the 
termination  of  a  fine  avenue  we  arrive 
opposite  the  Triumphal  Arch  of  the 
Simplon,  close  to  which  is  the  gate  by 
which  Milan  is  entered.  The  rly.  stat. 
is  some  distance  farther  on,  outside  the 
Porta  del  Principe  Umberto. 

1    MrLAN  (see  Ete.  21). 


BOUTE  18. 

LAYENO  TO  YABESB  AlO)  COHO. 
30  m. 

This  route  may  easily  be  performed 
in  a  day,  enabling  the  traveller  to  visit 
Varese  and  Como,  or  in  two,  to  visit 
not  only  the  town  of  Como,  but  its 
Lake,  and  to  reach  Milan  by  railway  on 
the  second  evening.  By  persons  press- 
ed for  time  Milan  may  be  reached  from 
Laveno  in7hrs. ;  leaving  the  Borromeau 
Islands,  Stresa,  or  Baveno  by  the  steam- 
boat which  calls  at  the  former  about 
6}  A.:si.,  and  lands  its  passengers  at 
Laveno  at  7f  (in  summer),  from  which 
good  public  convevances  start  for  Va- 
rese and  Como :  places  can  be  secured 
on  board  the  steamboat.  As  the 
steamers  do  not  embark  carriages  from 
Baveno,  it  will  be  necessary  for  those 
who  have  arrived  at  the  b,tter  place 
by  the  Simplon  road  to  send  them 
round  to  Pallanza,  or  Arona.  The 
advantages  of  this  over  the  preceding 
route  are  that  it  traverses  a  very  beau- 
tiful country,  and  will  enable  the  tra- 
veller to  visit  Varese,  to  make  a  diver- 
sion to  Lugano  from  Como,  to  examine 
its  lovely  lake,  and  to  see  Monza  before 
proceedmg  to  the  capital  of  Lombardy. 

The  distance  by  water  from  the  Bor- 
romean  Islands  to  Laveno  is  about  4  m. 

Laveno  {Inns :  La  Posta,  veiy  fair  ; 
il  Moro),  the  principal  town  on  the 
eastern  side  of  the  Lago  Maggiore, 
is  situated  on  the  shores  of  a  small, 
well-protected  bay  ;  it  had  of  late 
years  been  selected  as  the  naval  sta- 
tion for  the  Austrian  war  steamers, 
and  had  been  fortified  by  the  erec- 
tion of  two  strong  redoubts  and  an 
extensive  casemated  barrack.  Lavraio 
is  supposed  to  occupy  the  site  of  the  Ro- 
man station  of  Labienum.  The  distance 
from  Laveno  to  Varese  is  13  m.,  and 
is  performed  in  about  2  hrs.,  although 
for  a  part  of  the  way  the  road  con- 
stantly ascends.  Leaving  the  town,  we 
skirt  the  base  of  the  mountain  of  La- 


LOMBARI^Y. 


Moute  18. — Gavirak —  Varese, 


15& 


veno,  or  Monte  BoBcero,  •which  forma 
so  fine  an  ohject  in  the  landscape  from 
the  central  parts  of  the  Lago  Mag- 
giore,  rising  gradually  to  G-ayirate: 
halfway  between  these  towns  a  road 
up  the  Val  Cuvio  branches  off  on  the  L 
to  Lnino. 

Gawraie  is  a  large  village  on  arising 
ground  near  the  W.  extremity  of  the 
Lake  of  Tarese,  over  which  the  view 
from  here  is  very  beautiful.  A  great 
deal  of  silk  is  produced  hereabouts,  and 
in  the  neighbourhood  are  quarries  of 
the  variety  of  marble  called  marmo 
majolica  by  the  Milanese,  extensively 
us^  for  ornamental  purposes:  it  is  a 
variety  of  compact  limestone  of  the  age 
of  our  lower  EngUsh  chalk-beds.  Be- 
tween G«virate  and  Varese,  7  m.,  the 
road  ascends  as  far  as  Comerio,  where 
it  attains  an  elevation  of  about  750  ft. 
above  the  Lago  Maggiore,  passing 
through  JJuinate  in  a  charming  posi- 
tion, commanding  a  magnificent  pros- 
pect over  the  Lakes  of  Commabbio,  Mo- 
nate,  and  Varese;  there  are  some  hand- 
some villas  about  Comeria ;  a  gradual 
descent  of  3  m.  from  here  brings  us  to 
Varese,  passing  on  the  1.,  but  at  some 
distance,  the  hill  on  which  is  situated 
the  Sanctuary  of  the  Madonna  del 
Monte,  or  the  Sagro  Monte  of  Varese. 

13m.VABESE.  Inns:  Hotel  deVEu- 
rope,  y&cj  good,  and  V Angela,  much 
improved;  persons  who  wish  to  visit 
the  Sagro  Monte  will  be  able  to  do 
so  in  a  few  hrs.,  and  on  their  return 

Eroceed  to  Como,  or  to  arrive  at  Camer- 
ita  in  time  for  the  last  train  to  Milan. 
The  public  conveyances  from  Laveno 
geneiully  stop  here  for  2  hrs.,  which 
will  enable  the  traveller  to  go  over  the 
town. 

Coaches  leave  Varese  for  Camerlata 
(the  Stat,  of  the  Como  and  Milan  B>ly.) 
and  Como  3  times  a  day,  perform- 
ing the  journey  in  about  3  hrs.,  fare  3 
lire  J  and  others  start  regularly  for  La- 
veno and  Luino,  corresponding  with 
the  calling  at  these  places  of  the  steam- 
boats on  the  Lago  Maggiore.  A  public 
conv^ance,  ki  correspondence  with  all 
the  Bly.  trains  at   Gallarate,  affords 


the  quickest  mode  of  reaching  Milan 
(3  hrs.). 

All  round  Varese  are  numerous 
villas  of  the  wealthy  Milanese,  of  whom 
many  reside  here  during  the  autumn. 
Varese  is  a  city  of  8000  Inhab.,  and 
has  an  hospital,  schools,  a  theatre, 
and  several  factories  for  the  winding 
of  silk  from  the  cocoons.  The  prin- 
cipal church,  St.  Vittorey  was  built 
from  the  designs  of  Pellegrini:  the 
fa9ade  was  completed  in  1791,  by 
PoUick.  It  contains  frescoes,  and  a 
Magdalene,  by  Morazzone ;  a  St. 
George  by  Cerano.  The  adjoining  oc- 
tagonal baptistery  is  in  the  Lombard 
style. 

The  chief  object  of  attraction  here 
is  the  celebrated  Sanctuary  of  the 
Virgin,  called  La  Madonna  del  Monte, 
which  is  situated  on  a  lofty  hill  about . 
5  m.  to  the  N.W.  of  the  city.  It 
is  said  to  have  been  founded  in  397 
by  St.  Ambrose,  to  commemorate  a 
great  victory, — not  in  argument,  but  in 
arms, — ^gained  by  him  on  this  spot  over 
the  Arians.  The  slaughter  is  said  to 
have  been  so  great  that  the  heterodox 
party  were  exterminated.  It  was  dedi- 
cated to  the  Virgin,  and  her  statue, 
which  was  consecrated  by  St.  Ambrose, 
is  still  preserved.  At  the  end  of  the 
16th  centy.  Agaggiari,  a  Capuchin 
monk,  built,  out  of  funds  raised  by  his 
exertions,  the  14  chapels  which  stand  by 
the  side  of  the  road  which  leads  to  the 
church  on  the  summit.  A  good  road 
leads  to  Bobarello,  a  village  about 
2^  m.  from  Varese,  where  ponies  or 
sedan-chairs  may  be  hired  to  make  the 
ascent.  A  pony  costs  1  fr.  50  c. ;  a 
chair  4  fr.  The  walk  up  will  be,  to  most 
people,  easy.  The  entrance  to  the 
road  is  through  a  species  of  triumphal 
arch. 

The  fourteen  chapels  represent  the 
mysteries  of  the  Rosary  j  the  first 
five  represent  the  mysteries  of  joy,  the 
second  five  the  mysteries  of  grief, 
the  last  four  the  mysteries  of  glory. 
They  contain  coloured  statues  iu  stucco, 
like  those  at  Varallo  and  Orta  (see  Siciss 
Handbook,  Rtes.  117,  118),  and  fres- 
coes, by  Morazzone,  Bianchi,  Nttvolone, 


160 


Moute  18. — Como. 


Sect.  tit. 


Legnaniy  and  others  of  the  painters  of 
the  Milanese  school  of  the  16th  centy. 
Over  the  fountain,  near  the  last  chapel, 
is  a  fine  colossal  statue  of  Moses,  by 
Gaetano  Mofiti.  Connected  with  the 
church  is  a  convent  of  Augustinian 
nuns.  There  are  several  inns  at  the 
top,  the  number  of  pilgrims  being  very 
considerable.  Those  who  are  not 
tempted  from  sacred  motives  may  be 
induced  to  visit  the  Santuario  by  being 
told  that  the  ascent  to  it  affords  the 
most  magnificent  views  of  the  rich 
plain  of  Lombardy  as  far  as  the  Apen- 
nines, of  the  higher  and  lower  chains 
of  the  Alps,  and  the  lakes  of  Varese, 
Comabbio,  Biandrone,  Monate,  Mag- 
giore,  and  Como. 

Five  roads  branch  off  at  Varese :  one 
to  the  S.,  which  joins  the  Simplon  road 
and  rly.  at  Q-aliarate ;  a  second,  13  m.  to 
Laveno,  where  the  Lago  Maggiore  may 
be  crossed  to  the  Borromean  Islands, 
to  Stresa,  and  Baveno  on  the  Sim- 
plon road;  a  third  to  Como,  hilly, 
about  17  m. ;  a  fourth  by  Arcisate  to 
Porto  on  the  lake  of  Lugano,  the  last 
very  interesting  to  geologists ;  and  a 
fifth  to  Milan  by  Saronno.  (See  E-te. 
22.) 

On  leaving  Varese  for  Como  we  pass 
through  the  suburb  of  Biume,  which 
contains  several  handsome  villas  of  the 
Milanese  aristocracy,  and  soon  descends 
into  the  pretty  valley  of  the  Olonna. 
After  crossing  the  river  a  steep  ascent 
brings  up  to  the  town  of  Malnate,  on 
the  edge  of  the  escarpment  which 
bounds  the  valley  on  the  E. ;  a  gradual 
ascent  during  the  next  6  m.,  as  far  as 
the  village  of  OlgiatCy  leads  to  the 
highest  point  of  the  road,  about  730  ft. 
above  the  Lake  of  Como.  The  scenery 
on  the  1.  towards  the  Alps  is  very  fine  j 
a  deep  depression  marks  the  site  of  the 
Lake  of  Lugano,  through  which  may 
be  descried  the  church  of  San  Salvatore, 
which  fipom  the  summit  of  its  dolomitic 
peak  towers  over  the  capital  of  the 
canton  of  Ticino.  As  we  approach 
Como  the  road  runs  near  the  foot  of  a 
lower  range  of  subalpine  hills,  at  the 
E.  extremity  of  which  is  the  Monte 
Baradello,  remarkable  for  its  fine  ruined 


mediffival  castle,  and  close  to  which  is 
the  rapidly-increasing  village  of  Camer- 
lata,  where  the  Stat,  of  the  Como  and 
Milan  Rly.  is  situated.  Travellers 
proceeding  to  the  latter  place  will  stop 
here,  whilst  those  going  to  Como  will 
continue  by  a  steep  but  a  well-managed 
descent  of  less  than  a  mile,  entering 
the  town  by  the  new  gate  behind  the 
cathedral,  after  passing  through  the 
long  suburb  of  S.  Abondio. 

Como,  20,000  Inhab.  (Zww  ;  the 
AtigelOf  kept  by  Sala,  has  been  im- 
proved of  late,  and  is  now  excellent ; 
charges  moderate ;  it  is  pleasantly 
situated  on  the  edge  of  the  quay,  on 
the  E.  side  of  the  little  port.  On 
the  opposite  side  of  the  harbour  is 
the  Albergo  d'  Italia^  very  fair ;  Al- 
berqo  di  Como,  in  the  town,  near  the 
cathedral.  The  Corona^  outside  the 
town,  second-rate.  FamUies  who  wish 
to  remain  some  time  at  Como  may 
make  an  economical  arrangement,  dur- 
ing their  stay,  at  the  Angelo.  There 
is  a  most  comfortable'  hotel,  with 
moderate  charges,  the  Albergo  delict 
Hegina  d'  Inghtlterra,  part  of  the  Villa 
d'  Este  at  Cernobbio,  about  ^  an  hour 
from  Como,  and  in  a  delightful  situ- 
ation ;  very  clean  and  comfortable ; 
excellent  table-d'h6te ;  pension,  in  win- 
ter 5  frs.  a  day,  in  summer  7 :  the 
Chiu^jh  of  England  service  twice  every 
Sunday  in  a  room  fitted  up  as  a  chapel. 
Attached  to  it  are  baths,  large  pleasure- 
groimds,  and  a  water-cure  establish- 
ment ;  an  omnibus  runs  between  it  and 
the  rly.  stat.) 

Steamboats  leave  Como  at  8  a.m., 
1'30  and  4*45  p.m.  (in  the  summer 
months)  for  CoHco  and  the  different 
places  on  the  lake,  and  retxmi  from 
Colico  to  Como  at  3  and  5*30  a.m., 
and  3Jt  p.m.,  and  at  1*30  p.m.,  per- 
forming the  voyage  each  way  in  3  and 
4  hrs.  A  boat,  in  correspondence  with 
the  Unes  from  Como  and  CoUco,  leaves 
Tremezzina  for  Lecco  at  7*30  and 
11'15  a.m.,  returning  at  9*15  a.m. 
and  4  p.m.,  which  will  afford  the  best 
means  for  seeing  the  Lecco  branch  of 
the  lake. 
Diligences,  A  coach  leaves  in  the  aft^r- 


LOMBARDY. 


Moute  18. — Como — Cathedral. 


161 


noon  daily  for  Lecco  in  4  hrs.,  return- 
ing every  morning  at  10.  To  Tarese  3 
times  a  day,  in  3  hrs.,  fare  3  francs. 

Railway  to  Milan.  The  station  is  at 
Oameriata,  about  a  mile  S.  of  Como, 
for  which  omnibuses  start  to  meet 
every  train  (3  or  4  a  day),  fare  60 
centimes;  but  an  exorbitant  charge  is 
made  for  luggage,  one-half  the  amount 
charged  for  its  conveyance  by  rly. 

Pleasure-boats  for  excursions  may  be 
hired  opposite  the  Angelo :  there  is  no 
tariff;  3  fr.  an  hr.  is  the  tmderstood 
charge,  but  by  bargaining  may  be  re- 
duced to  2. 

Como,  situated  at  one  end  of  the  lake 
called  by  the  ancients  the  Lacus  La- 
rii,  -was  anciently  a  town  of  consider- 
able importance.  A  Greek  colony 
having  been  settled  in  this  district  by 
Pompeius  Strabo  and  Cornelius  Scipio, 
and  subsequently  by  J.  Caesar,  Comum 
was  made  the  chief  seat  of  this  colony. 
It  had  hitherto  been  an  inconsider- 
able place,  but  from  that  time  it  rose 
to  a  great  degree  of  prosperity  under 
the  name  of  Comum  Novimi.  It 
appears  from  the  letters  of  the  younger 
Pliny,  who  was  bom  at  Comum,  that 
his  native  city  was,  in  his  time,  in  a 
very  flourishing  state,  and  in  the  en- 
joyment of  all  the  privileges  which  be- 
longed to  a  Koraan  municipium.  There 
are  traces  of  this  Greek  colony  in  the 
names  of  many  places  on  the  lake, 
e.g.  Nesso,  Pigra,  Lenno,  Dorio,  &c. 
Como  docs  not  figure  in  history  after 
the  faU  of  the  Empire  till  the  year 
1107,  about  which  time  it  became 
an  independent  city,  and  engaged  in 
wars  with  Milan,  which  ended  in  its 
total  destruction  in  1127.  It  was  re- 
built by  Frederic  Barbarossa  in  1155, 
and  four  years  afterwards  was  for- 
tified. It  remained  a  republic  for  two 
centuries,  imtil  it  fell  under  the  do- 
minion of  the  Visoontis.  Since  that 
time  Como  has  followed  the  fortunes 
of  Milan. 

Como  is  a  place  of  considerable 
trade  and  industry.  Its  silk  fabrics 
formerly  stood  next  in  rank  to  those  of 
Milan.  The  stuffs  known  by  the 
names  of  mawHni  and  amoreUe  had  a 


wide  reputation.  Time  was  when  the 
number  of  looms  at  work  at  Como 
exceeded  those  of  Lyons.  Como  has 
manu&ctures  of  silks,  wooUens,  cotton, 
yam  and  soap.  It  trades  from  its  port  on 
the  lake  chiefly  with  Switzerland.  It 
exports  rice,  com,  and  other  agricul- 
tiual  produce  for  the  mountain  dis- 
tricts, and  large  quantities  of  raw  silk 
in  transit  through  Switzerland,  for 
Germany  and  England,  by  the  routes 
over  the  Splugen  and  St.  Gothard. 

The  view  of  Como  from  the  N.  is 
pecidiarly  striking,  the  city  being 
spread  out  on  the  undulating  shore  of 
the  lake;  and  in  the  background  is 
the  ancient  picturesque  tower  of  the 
Ba^adellOy  connected  with  one  of  the 
most  important  passages  in  the  history 
of  Milan.  Ugo  Foscolo  used  to  say 
that  it  was  impossible  to  study  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Como ;  for  the  beauty 
of  the  landscape,  always  tempting 
you  to  the  window,  quite  prevented  you 
from  giving  proper  attention  to  your 
book. 

The  Cathedral^  or  Duomo,  is  a  flne 
building,  the  beauty  of  the  architec- 
ture being  heightened  by  the  richness 
and  solidity  of  the  material  used  in 
its  construction.  It  is  of  marble. 
A  long  scrie?  of  architects,  of  whom 
Lorenzo  de*  Spazi  was  the  first,  from 
1396  to  the  last  century,  have  been 
engaged  upon  it,  and  hence  a  corre- 
sponding variety  in  the  style  of  its 
different  parts.  The  facade  was  be- 
gun by  Lucchino  di  Milano,  in  1460, 
and  completed,  between  1487  and 
1526,  by  Tomaso  SodariOi  of  Ma- 
roggia.  This  architect  was  also  an 
excellent  sculptor.  Many  of  the  statues 
were  executed  by  his  own  hand.  But 
he  was  criticised  by  a  fellow  artist,  the 
celebrated  Cristoforo  Solaro,  nick- 
named //  GohhOj  or  the  Hunchback; 
by  whose  advice  the  designs  for  the 
other  parts  were  altered,  perhaps  im- 
proved. The  cupola,  or  dome,  was 
completed  about  1732,  by  Juvara, 
The  fa9ade  is  Gothic  with  the  ex- 
ception of  "the  three  entrance  doors, 
which  are  roimd-  headed  and  of 
the  richest  Lombard  style ;  the  fa9ade 


162 


Boute  18. — Como— Cathedral. 


Sect.  HI. 


18  diyided  by  slips,  or  pilasters,  witb 
statues  all  the  way  up,  enclosing  a  most 
magnificent  rose  window,  and  studded 
with  rich  tribunes  and  canopies;  ele- 
gant trefoil  corbels  circulate  round 
the  cornice  and  pinnacles,  the  centre 
of  which  chiefly  presents  a  circular 
temple  of  small  columns  on  brackets, 
rising  from  a  tall  pedestal  and  sup- 
porting a  diadem  of  lesser  pinnacles, 
and  is  unique." — Hope,  The  lower 
portions  of  the  pilasters,  and  of  the 
fa9ade,  are  coyered  with  curious  em- 
blems, some  ftMsonic^  some  religious, 
interspersed  with  texts  and  inscrip- 
tions in  beautiful  Gothic  letters. 
Many  of  these  bas-reliefs  are  types; 
€.  g.  a  fountain,  a  yine,  a  lily,  a  church 
upon  a  hiU.  Amongst  the  larger 
bas-reUefs,  the  Adoration  of  the  Magi 
in  the  arch  of  the  door  should  be 
noticed ;  but  the  most  remarkable  or- 
naments of  this  front  are  the  statues 
of  the  two  Plinys,  erected  by  the 
Comaschi  in  the  16th  centy.  to  their 
"fellow  citizens."  They  are  placed 
under  canopies  in  an  ornamental 
style  by  Bodario.  The  younger  Pliny 
was  much  attached  to  Como,  and 
he  resigned  a  considerable  legacy  in 
its  fayo.ur,  founded  a  school,  puilt  a 
temple,  and  fully  deseryes  commemora- 
tion as  a  benefactor.  Yerona  has  also 
claimed  the  honour  of  being  the  birth- 
place of  the  elder  Pliny ;  but  all  the 
ancient  authorities  are  in  fayour  of 
Como,  where  the  Plinian  family  was 
long  established.  Of  the  younger 
Pliny,  there  is  no  doubt  that  he  was 
bom  here.  Very  many  inscriptions 
haye  been  found  at  Como  relating  to 
the  family:  one,  much  mutilated,  is 
built  into  the  wall  of  the  S.  side  of 
the  Duomo,  relating  to  a  Caius  Pli- 
nius  Csecilius  Seeundus,  who  may  be 
(though  some  doubt  has  been  raised 
by  antiquaries)  the  indiyidual  of  whom 
Como  is  so  justly  proud. 

The  other  sides  of  the  exterior  are 
in  the  style  of  the  B>enaissance.  The 
lateral  doorways,  particularly  that  on 
the  northern  side,  with  angels  and  fan- 
ciful columns,  are  elegant.  Both  these 
doorways  were  executed  by  Epodario. 


The  arabesques  are  interspersed  with 
birds,  animals,  serpents^  and  children. 
The  3  windows  of  each  aisle  are  splen- 
didly ornamented  with  arabesques  and 
portraits,  in  relief,  of  illustrious  men, 
in  the  best  dnquecento  style,  and  the 
buttresses  between  them  surmounted 
by  elegant  pinnacles.  The  cupola  is  in' 
the  complicated  and  oyerloaded  style 
of  the  Flinch  architecture  of  the  l&th 
century. 

In  the  interior  of  the  Duomo  the 
naye  and  two  aisles  are  Italian  Gothic, 
withfinely-groinedyaults;  the  transepts 
and  choir  are  the  Italian  of  the  Re- 
naissance. The  choir  is  circular,  with 
5  windows  on  two  tiers,  each  separated 
by  Corinthian  pilasters;  around  are 
placed  statues  of  the  patron  saints 
of  Como.  The  painting  of  the  yault  of 
the  choir  and  naye  has  been  recently 
restored.  The  large  wheel  window  oyer 
the  W.  door,  with  those  on  each  side 
containing  modem  stained  glass  paint- 
ings of  the  patron  saints  in  three  tiers 
or  compartments,  produce  a  yery  fine 
efiect,  especially  with  the  eyening  sun 
shining  through  them. 

Paintings,  aUart,  and  monuments, — 
Luini.  The  Adoration  of  the  Magi,  in 
distemper.  In  this  painting  the  artist 
has  introduced  a  giraffe,  drawn  with 
tolerable  correctness.  This  seems  to 
show  that  the  animal  had  then  been 
seen  in  Italy. — The  Virgin,  with  St. 
Jerome  and  3  other  Saints,  and  his- 
tories of  his  life,  in  compartments  on 
the  predella. — The  Natiyity,  in  distem- 
per; in  this  painting  Luini's  sweet- 
ness of  conception  is  exemplified  in  the 
expression  of  the  Virgin  mother. — 
Another  picture,  St.  Christopher  and 
St.  Sebastian,  attributed  to  Luini,  is 
probably  only  a  copy.  Gaudenzio 
Ferrari.  The  Marnage  of  the  Virgin, 
a  fine  and  unaltered  specimen  of  this 
master. — The  Flight  into  Egypt,  in 
distemper.  Some  of  the  altars  and 
chapels  are  worthy  of  notice. 

The  Altar  of  Santa  Luda,  by  To* 
maso  di  Rodario,  who  has  inscribed 
his  name,  1492.  The  smaller  statues 
at  this  altar  are  beautiful;  so  also 
are  the  candelabras,  which,  howeyer,  are 


liOMBARDY. 


Boute  18. —  Coma — Cathedral — Brdetto. 


163 


partiallj  and  injudiciously  concealed. 
Altar  of  St.  Aboudio,  third  Bishop 
of  Como,  in  gilt  and  coloured  wood ; 
his  statue  in  the  centre ;  his  mii'acles 
in  compartments  around.  Altar  of 
8(mta  Apollonia,  erected  hj  Ludo- 
Tico  di  Montalto,  a  canon  of  the 
cathedral;  in  the  same  rich  and  sin- 
gular style.  Altar  of  8anf  Ambrofio, 
erected  in  1482,  hy  John  di  Veludino, 
another  canon.  Altar  of  the  Vergine 
dell*  Angela^  a  fine  altarpiece,  repre- 
senting  St.  Jerome,  St.  Francis,  St. 
Carlo,  and  St.  Anthony ;  in  front, 
the  Canon  Eaimundi,  hy  whom  it  was 
presented.  Chapel  of  the  Vergine  delV 
Assuwtaj  called  the  Altar  of  the 
Marchese  Gallo.  The  Baldachino  of 
marhle  is  splendid. 

A  modem  altarpiece,  by  Marched. 
St.  Joseph  and  our  Lord  as  a  child; 
considered  as  one  of  the  best  works 
of  this  artist.  Altar  of  the  Mater 
Dolorosa — Altar  of  the  Cenacolo  — 
both  with  fine  sculptures :  the  first 
has  an  Entombment  oyer  it. 

Tomb  of  JBishop  Boniface,  of  the 
14th  century.  The  statue  of  the 
bishop,  sleeping  in  death,  is  striking. 

Monument  ^  Benedetto  Qiotnoy  the 
historian  of  Como.  Benedetto  was 
the  brother  of  the  more  celebrated 
Paolo  Giovio.  He  was  the  first  exact 
archaeologist  who  appeared  during  the 
revival  of  letters.  One  of  his  most 
important  works,  yet  in  manuscript, 
is  a  Thesaurus  of  Roman  inscriptions 
found  in  this  country;  and  it  is  said 
that  not  one  spurious  inscription  has 
been  detected  in  these  collections.  He 
died  in  1544,  and  was  buried  here 
with  great  solemnity.  This  tomb  was 
erected  by  his  brother  in  1556. 

In  the  Sacristi/  is  a  fine  picture  by 
Ltdni — a  Virgin  and  Child,  with  SS. 
Jerome,  Augustine,  Anthony,  and  Ni- 
cholas. 

There  are  two  organs ;  one  built  in 
1596,  but  afterwards  much  improved ; 
the  other,  in  1650,  by  Father  Her- 
mann, a  German  Jesuit.  The  former  is 
rather  out  of  repair,  the  tone  of  the 
latter  is  exquisite.  Just  as  you  enter 
the  Duomo  are  two  animals,  neither 


lions  nor  tigers,  but  something  be- 
tween, supporting  the  basins  for  holy 
water.  These,  without  doubt,  are 
remains  of  the  porch  of  the  original 
cathedral,  and  supported  its  columns. 

The  circular  Battisterio,  on  the  1. 
of  the  entrance  into  the  church,  is 
attributed  to  Bramante ;  it  consists 
of  8  Corinthian  columns  of  Breccia 
marble,  with  the  font  in  the  centre,  on 
which  are  bas-reliefs  of  the  life  of  the 
Baptist,  but,  having  neither  dome  nor 
cupola,  has  an  unfinished  look. 

The  Bishop  of  Como  has  an  exten- 
sive diocese,  extending  over  a  great 
portion  of  Italian  Switzerland.  The 
Duomo  was  wholly  built  by  voluntary 
contributions,  the  Comaschi  taking 
great  pride  in  this  chief  ornament 
of  their  town  and  diocese,  and  the 
manner  in  which  the  edifice  was  begun 
by  the  people  is  recorded  in  the  inscrip- 
tions upon  it. 

By  the  side  of  the  Duomo  stands 
the  BrolettOf  or  town-hall,  built  of 
alternate  courses  of  black  and  white 
marble,  and  with  one  entire  course 
and  a  few  red  patches.  This  build- 
ing, completed  in  1215,  is  interest- 
ing as  a  memorial  of  the  ancient 
days  of  the  independence  of  the  Ita- 
lian republics  ;  as  such  a  Broletto  is, 
or  has  existed,  in  every  Lombard  city. 
The  lower  story  is  a  Loggia  upon  4 
open  fitrohes.  Above  is  a  floor  with  large 
windows,  where  the  chiefs  of  the  mu- 
nicipality assembled ;  and  from  the 
middle  window  projects  the  "  ringhi- 
era"  from  which  they  addressed  the 
crowd  of  citizens  convened  in  parlia- 
ment below ;  for,  in  the  constitutional 
language  of  ancient  Italy,  the  parlia- 
m^nto  was  the  primary  assembly  of 
the  democracy,  from  whence  the 
powers  of  government  originated,  and 
to  which  the  ultimate  appeal  was  to 
be  made. 

The  lower  arches  here  are  pointed, 
the  upper  circular. 

Como  possesses  some  other  curious 
medieeval  antiquities, — none  more  re- 
markable than  the  church  of  San  Fe- 
dele.  This  building  is  considered  to 
be  of  the  era  of  the  Lombard  kings,  and 


164 


lUyute  18.— CWio — Pvhtic  BuMings — Port.        Sect.  111. 


the  back  part  of  the  exterior  is  nearly 
unaltered.  It  was  for  some  time  used 
as  a  cathedral  before  the  erection  of  the 
present  one :  it  has  a  triangular  arch 
with  straight  sides  over  the  entrance, 
octagonal  cupola,  and  round  apsis, 
small  galleries  outside  under  the  cupola, 
and  a  triforium  or  gallery  inside  for 
the  women.  The  style  is  not  unlike 
that  x)f  the  oldest  churches  of  Co- 
logne. It  contains  some  very  rude  but 
remarkable  imagery ;  e.  g.  b,  conflict 
between  a  dragon  and  a  serpent,  flank- 
ing a  doorway  (itself  most  singular) 
-at  the  N.  side  of  the  apse.  The  in- 
terior has  been  modernised.  In  the  un- 
altered parts  serpents  and  lions  abound. 
One  monster  sustains  the  basin  for 
holy-water.  There  is  a  triptych  fres- 
co of  the  Virgin  and  S.  Roch,  of  15th 
oenty.,  in  1st  chapel  on  1. 

Ch.  of  St.  Abondio.  In  the  suburb 
of  the  Annunciata,  and  "on  the  site 
of  the  ancient  city,  a  little  beyond  the 
bridge  on  the  Chiasso  road,  is  the  ch. 
of  San  Cai'pofero,  first  Bishop  of  Como, 
reckoned  the  oldest  of  the  place,  with 
a  round  apse  and  square  tower.  The 
church  was  first  dedicated  to  St.  Peter 
and  St.  Paul,  and  after  the  death  of 
St.  Abondius,  third  Bishop  of  Como,  in 
469,  to  that  holy  prelate,  buried  within 
its  precincts.  It  was  the  cathedral  of 
the  old  city  ;  it  presents  single  round- 
headed  windows,  with  small  pillars  and 
arches,  again  enclosed  in  broad  flat 
borders  of  the  richest  arabesque  and 
basket-work.  Though  small,  it  has 
double  aisles,  and  of  the  outermost 
range  the  pillars  are  smaller  and  the 
arches  lower  than  of  the  innermost." — 
Hope.  It  contains  the  tombs  of  several 
of  the  bishops  of  Como.  This  church, 
fallen  into  decay,  has  been  recently 
restored,  and  now  serves  as  the  chapel 
of  the  ecclesiastical  seminary. 

The  Theatre^  standing  behind  the 
Duomo  upon  the  site  of  the  old  castle, 
is  a  handsome  building. 

The  lAceo  Imperiale  e  Meale^  recently 
completed.    The  front  is  adorned  with 
busts  of  the  great  men  whom  Com 
has  produced.      It  contains  readin 


rooms,  a  bust  of  the  celebrated  singer 
Madame  Pasta,  a  collection  of  natural 
history,  a  laboratory,  &c.,  and  is  well 
organized  and  conducted. 

The  Piazza  Voltay  so  called  from  the 
eminent  philosopher,  whose  statue,  by 
Marcheei,  stands  in  the  centre  of  it, 
opposite  the  house  in  which  he  lived. 
Como  gave  birth  to  Piazzi  the  astro- 
nomer, the  discoverer  of  the  planet 
Ceres,  and  to  Volta,  whose  discoveries 
seem  to  pervade  the  whole  system  of 
physical  science.  Alessandro  Volta  was 
bom  at  Como,  February  19th,  1745 : 
he  was  intended  for  the  law  ;  but  his 
first  work,  published  in  1769,  and 
which  treated  upon  electricity,  sufli- 
ciently  announced  the  direction  which 
his  mind  had  permanently  received. 
He  died  m  1819. 

Palazzo  OioviOf  still  belonging  to 
the  family,  contains  a  number  of  Ro- 
man inscriptions  and  other  antiquities 
— a  collection  begun  by  Paolo  Giovio. 
Later  times  have  added  several  interest- 
ing rehcs  from  suppressed  churches  and 
convents.  The  Ubrary  contains  several 
of  the  inedited  works  and  papers  of 
Paolo  Griovio  and  of  Benedetto  the 
historian. 

The  gates  of  the  city  are  good 
specimens  of  the  military  architecture 
of  the  middle  ages,  and  add  much  to 
its  picturesque  appearance:  that  which 
opens  towards  Milan  is  the  most 
perfect. 

The  little  Port  of  Como  is  formed 
by  two  piers,  each  ending  in  a  square 
paviUon,  the  view  up  the  lake  from 
which  is  pleasing.  The  lake  abounds 
with  fish.  Of  these  the  most  esteemed 
are  the  trout,  pike,  perch,  and  the 
agone^  a  species  of  chipea.  The  agoni 
migrate  periodically  from  one  end  of 
the  lake  to  the  other. 

The  plan  of  the  city  of  Como  has 
been  assimilated  to  the  shape  of  a  crab, 
the  city  being  the  body,  and  the  two 
suburbs  of  Vico  and  St.  Agostino  being 
the  claws.  Vico  is  on  the  N. :  it 
abounds  with  pleasant  walks  and 
handsome  villas.  The  Saimondior  Odes^ 


LOMBABDT. 


Jt<yute  18. — Como — Suburbs. 


165 


ealchi,  J^iseonii,  and  Jtezzanico  ViUas 
are  amongst  the  most  splendid ;  and 
further  on  the  Villa  d*  Mste^  long  inha- 
bited by  Queen  Caroline  of  England. 
Near  it  is  the  &allia,  supposed  to  be 
upon  the  site  of  one  of  £liny's  rillas. 

The  Borgo  di  St  Agostino  is  the 
manufacturing  suburb  of  Oomo.  The 
church  and  the  Casa  Gkillietta,  con- 
taining some  tolerable  pictures,  are  its 
principal  objects  of  note.  In  the  hiU 
above  is  the  grotto  of  8t,  Donato,  much 
resorted  to  by  pilgrims;  and  still 
higher  is  Brwnoite^  also  a  place  of  fond 
derotion ;  the  object  of  popular  vene- 
ration being  an  ancient,  uncouth  image 
called  the  Beata  Ougliehmna,  an 
English  princess  unknown  to  history, 
and  who,  flying  from  her  native  home, 
became  a  recluse  and  died  here.  The 
peasant  women  believe  that  by  her 
intercession  they  obtain  help  in  nursing 
their  children. 

The  inhabitants  of  Como  and  its 
vicinity  have  been  celebrated  as  masons 
ever  smce  the  days  of  the  Lombards. 
In  the  laws  of  Rothar,  one  of  the 
earliest  of  the  Lombard  kings,  mention 
is  made  of  the  "  Magistri  Comacini," 
who  travelled  the  country  as  masons, 
which  they  continue  to  do  at  the  pre- 
sent day. 

There  is  a  charming  walk  from  Como 
to  Blevio,  on  the  E.  shore  of  the 
lake. 

Above  Camerlatai  about  a  nule  to 
the  S.  of  Como,  upon  a  sandstone  rock, 
stands  the  lofty  tower  of  Baradello. 
Some  ascribe  this  building,  whose  cas- 
tellated walls  run  down  the  abrupt 
sides  of  the  steep,  to  the  Lombard 
kings.  It  is  more  probably  of  the  age 
of  Barbarossa.  It  is  interesting  a« 
the  monument  that  witnessed  the  fall 
of  the  first  of  the  dynasties  which  suc- 
cessively tyrannised  over  Milan.  This 
city,  one  of  the  first  which  asserted  its 
independence,  was  the  first  amongst  the 
Italian  republics  to  lose  it.  Her  freedom 
dates  fii3m  the  peace  of  Constance  in 
1183 ;  her  thraldom  from  1246,  when 
Pagano  delta  Torre,  the  chief  of  that 


once  powerful  family,  was  inaugurated 
as  the  protector  of  the  republic.  In  the 
hands  of  the  Torriani  the  power  con- 
tinued until  the  accession  of  Napo- 
leone  della  Torre,  who,  created  Anziano 
Perpetuo  by  the  people,  and  Ticar  of 
the  Empire  by  Rodolph  of  Hapsburgh, 
governed  with  absolute  authority.  The 
nobles  whom  he  had  exiled,  guided  by 
Ottone  Visconti,  were  in  possession  of 
the  city  of  Como,  and  on  the  21st  of 
January,  1277,  Napoleone  and  his  troop 
fell  into  the  power  of  their  enemy.  The 
victors  spared  the  lives  of  Napoleone 
and  of  all  the  members  of  his  family 
whom  they  captured ;  but  the  prisoners 
were  put  in  separate  iron  cages  in  the 
BaradeUo.  What  ultimately  became 
of  the  others  is  not  known ;  but  Napo- 
leone, after  lingering  several  years,  de- 
voured by  vermin,  and  sufiering  the 
most  extreme  misery,  probably  mad- 
dened by  it,  ended  his  captivity  with 
his  life  by  dashing  his  head  against 
the  bars  of  his  prison.  Upon  the  fall 
of  the  Torriani  arose  the  power  of  the 
Viscontis. 

G^reat  numbers  of  erratic  blocks  are 
to  be  seen  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
Como.  The  material  of  these  boulders 
is  usually  granite  or  gneiss.  Many 
are  found  in  the  mountains  between 
Como  and  Lecco.  One  of  the  most 
celebrated  is  on  the  moimtain-pastures 
of  San  Primo,  which  stands  above 
the  bend  of  the  lake,  near  Carvagnana 
and  Nesso.  This  boulder  is  59  ft.  long, 
39i  ft.  wide,  and  26  ft.  high.  There 
is  another  at  a  short  distance  from 
it,  smaller,  with  the  country  people 
call  the  SasBO  della  Luntt.  Many  have 
been  broken  up  for  building-stones.  The 
pillars  of  the  church  at  Valmadrera, 
near  Lecco,  which  are  46J  ft.  high,  and 
3  ft.  8  in.  in  diameter,  were  cut  from  an 
erratic  block  foimd  upon  Mount  Val- 
madrera at  the  height  of  1065  ft.  above 
the  level  of  the  lake.  The  geologist 
Curioni  observed  a  mass  of  granite  of 
about  710  cubic  ft.  some  hundred  ynrds 
above  Camnago,  2  m.  to  tlie  eastward 
of  Como. 


166 


BotUe  18. — Cadendbbia  ^  Bellaggio,  Sect.  III. 


Excursions  on  the  Lake  of  Como* 

The  different  places  on  this  lake  can 
be  most  conveniently  visited  by  means 
of  the  steamers,  of  which  there  are  3 
departures  daily  from  either  extremity, 
at  8  a.m.  1*30,  and  4*45  p.m. ;  with  2 
to  Lecco  from  Tremezzina,  at  7 '30  and 
11*15,  a.m.  in  summer. 

Leaving  Como,  the  steamer  coasts 
along  the  W.  part  of  the  town,  from 
which  there  is  a  good  view  of  the  dif- 
ferent villas,  with  the  hill  and  tower  of 
Baradello  in  the  background,  to 

Ceniobbio  {Inn,  Regina  d'  Inghil- 
terra,  excellent — see  p.  1 60).  The  prin- 
cipal villa  here  is  the  V.  d'Este,  once 
inhabited  by  Queen  Caroline  of  Bruns- 
wick, wife  of  George  IV.  As  the 
steamer  does  not  always  stop  at  Cer- 
nobbio,  it  may  be  more  easily  visited 
by  carriage  from  Cumo.  Coasting 
alonff  the  W.  side  of  the  lake,  pass 

Blenso  (E.)  before  reaching 

Torno  CE.),  a  picturesque  village  on 
a  projecting  point;  crossing  from  it  to 

MoUrasio  ( W.) .  The  large  villa  here 
belongs  to  the  Marquis  Passalacqua. 
There  is  a  pretty  waterfall,  and  quarries 
of  a  black  calcareous  slate  for  roof- 
ing, which  may  interest  the  geologist. 
Farther  pass 

TorriffiQi  before  reaching 

Nesso  (E.),  at  the  opening  of  a  deep 
ravine,  called  the  Orrido,  with  a  small 
uninteresting  waterfall.  The  large 
villa  here  belongs  to  the  Trotti  family, 
and  is  generally  known  as  the  V. 
Pliniana,  not  because  Pliny  (the 
younger)  lived  here  (his  country  resi- 
dence having  been  more  probably  at 
Lenno),  but  on  account  of  a  neigh- 
bouring intermittent  spring  described 
in  his  writings.  About  4  m.  farther,  but 
on  the  opposite  border  of  the  lake,  is 

Argegno  (W.),  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Val  Intelvi.  The  high  peak  over 
it  is  the  Monte  Generoso,  the  Kighi  of 
the  Italian  lakes,  and  wdich  can  be 
easily  ascended  from  here.  Beyond 
Argegno  are  the  villages  of  Colonna 
and  Sala  on  1.,  before  reaching  a  pro- 
jecting promontory,  behind  which  lies 

Lenno  (W.),  the  supposed  site  of  one 


of  Pliny  the  elder's  villas.  2  m.  fiir- 
ther,  and  on  the  same  side  of  the  lake, 
is  the  station  of 

TVemezzina  (W.),  from  which  the 
steamers  for  Lecco  start,  and 

Cadenahbia,  in  one  of  the  love- 
liest situations  on  the  Lake  of  Como, 
and  where  tourists  had  better  land,  as 
there  is  much  to  see.  {Inn:  H&UH 
BeUevue,  excdlent,  charges  moderate, . 
clean  and  comfortable,  with  the  Eng*- 
lish  Protestant  Service  on  Sundays.) 
Close  to  Cadenabbia  is  the  villa  Carlotta 
(formerly  Somariva),  belonging  to  the 
Duke  of  Saxe  Meiningen,  which  con- 
tains groups  of  Cupid  and  Psyche, 
Venus  and  Paris,  and  a  Magdalen,  by 
Canova;  and  the  bas-reliefs  of  the 
Triumphs  of  Alexander  the  Great, 
executed  for  the  first  Napoleon,  by 
Thorwaldsen,  to  decorate  the  Arch  of 
the  Simplon  at  Milan.  The  tomb  of 
Count  Somariva,  in  the  chapel,  is  by 
Marchesi,  Beyond  Cadenabbia,  and  at 
a  short  distance  from  the  landing-place 
of  the  steamers,  is 

La  Majolica  (W.),  with  one  of  the 
best  hotels  and  most  agreeable  summer 
residences  on  the  lake,  the  Hdtel  de 
Milan ;  pension  7  francs  a  day,  exclu- 
sive of  attendance.  Several  agreeable 
excursions  may  be  made  from  here  to 
the  Madonna  di  San  Martino,  the  Monte 
Crocione^  &c.  On  the  opposite  shore  of 
the  lake  is  the  village  of 

Bellaggio  (E.),  upon  the  point  that 
separates  the  two  branches  of  Como 
and  Lecco,  and  in  a  lovely  situation 
There  are  several  excellent  inns  here, 
which  are  much  resorted  to  in  summer. 
The  Hdid  de  la  Grande  Breia^gne,  kept 
by  Antonio  Mella,  is  first-rate  for  com- 
fort, cleanliness,  and  good  cookery  ; 
built  against  the  hill,  it  commands  a 
fine  view,  especially  up  the  N.  branch 
of  the  lake  ;  there  is  a  resident  Eng- 
lish clergyman,  who  performs  the  Ser- 
vice of  the  Church  of  England  twice  a 
day  on  Sundays,  during  the  summer,  in 
it.  H.  Genazzini,  and  H.  de  Florence, 
also  good.  There  are  several  noble- 
men's villas  at  Bellaggio:  the  P'.  Giulia, 
belonging  to  the  Kmg  of  the  Belgians 
(not  shown) ;  the  Viila  Melzi,  contain- 
ing several  good  works  of  art ;  the  Villa 


LoMBARDY.  Route  18. — Menaggio — Colico — Fino. 


167 


FrizzonitSome  good  paintings;  the  Villa 
Serbelloni,  above  the  village,  from  which 
are  to  be  obtained  souie  of  the  finest 
views  over  the  lake.  There  is  a  road 
from  Bellaggio  to  Erba,  by  the  Valas- 
sina,  which  may  be  made  the  object 
of  a  very  picturesque  and  interesting 
excursion  (see  Rte.  19,  p.  169) ;  and  a 
path  along  the  lake,  through  fine 
scenery,  to  Como,  but  only  fit  for  a 
good  pedestrian,  passing  by  Lezzeno, 
Carvagnano,  Nepo,  Blevio,  &c. 

The  voyage  from  Tremezzina  or 
Bellaggio  to  Lecco  will  occupy  1^  hr., 
the  scenery  on  either  side  being  very 
wild,  without  any  place  of  importance 
on  the  shores. 

4  m.  beyond  Bellaggio  is 

Menaggio  (W.).  {Inn :  La  Corona.) 
From  here  there  is  a  good  road,  suited 
for  carriages,  distance  6  m.,  to  Por- 
kzza  at  the  E.  extremity  of  the  Lake 
of  Lugano.  The  Villa  Vigoni,  with  some 
modem  works  of  art,  is  near  Menaggio. 

From  Menaggio  the  steamer  crosses 
the  northern  branch  of  the  h^e  to 

Varenna  (E.).  {Inn:  Albergo  Reale 
di  Marcionni,  the  best  on  the  eastern 
shore  of  the  lake.)  N.  of  V.  are  the 
galleries  or  tunnels  cut  through  the 
precipitate  cliffs  on  the  lake  to  allow 
the  great  military  road  of  the  Stelvio 
to  pass,  which  are  well  worthy  of  a 
visit,  as  well  as  the  fine  cascade  called 
the  Fiume  di  Latte ;  the  Castle  of  Per- 
ledo,  behind  Varenna,  is  a  very  pic- 
turesQue  object. 

Betlano  (E.),  about  3  m.  N.  of 
Varenna,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Pio- 
vema,  a  considerable  torrent  descend- 
ing from  the  Val  Sassina,  up  which  a 
pleasant  excursion  may  be  made  as  far 
as  IntrMio,  and  which  will  interest  the 
geologist.  Above  Gittana  and  beyond 
Bellano  is  the  Hydropathic  Establish- 
ment of  Regoledo,  much  frequented. 
Between  Bellano  and  Colico  there  is  no 
place  of  importance  on  the  E.  shore 
of  the  lake,  the  largest  village  being 
Olgiaseo;  the  road  being  excellent, 
skirting  the  base  of  Monte  Legnone 
(8600  ft.  high),  which  can  be  ascended 
from  Corenno,  2  m.  N.  of  Dervio. 
The  Monte  Legnone  forms  the  finest 
peak  in  the  landscape  of  the  N.  lake. 


On  leaving  Bellano,  the  steamer  stops 
to  land  passengers  at 

Dervio  (E.),  a  small  place  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Varrone  torrent,  and 
from  here  crosses  the  deepest  part  of 
the  lake  to 

Rezzonico  (W.),  where  there  are 
ruins  of  a  medisBval  castle,  and,  about 
2  m.  S.  of  it,  the  village  of 

S,  Abbondioy  on  the  shore  of  the 
lake.    6  m.  N.  of  Rezzonico  is 

Dongo  (W.),  a  large  village  at  some 
distance  from  the  shore;  and  3  m. 
farther,  on  the  W.  side, 

Gravedona  (W.),  after  Como  and 
Lecco  the  largest  town  on  the  Lake  of 
Como,  with  a  ch.  of  the  1 3th  centy. 
Behind  the  village  of  ^ 

Domasso  (W.),  2  m.  beyond  Grave- 
dona, are  some  iron-mines,  consisting 
of  crystallized  carbonate  or  spathoic 
iron,  in  the  mica-slate  rock.  A  stretch 
of  4  m.  across  the  northernmost  shal- 
low bay  of  the  lake  is 

Colico ;  from  which  branch  ofiT  the 
roads  to  Chiavenna,  up  the  valley  of 
the  Mera,  and  the  Splugen  pass,  and  to 
Sondrio  and  Bormio,  through  the  Val- 
telline,  to  the  base  of  the  Stelvio  pass. 
The  distance  to  Chiavenna,  along  which 
a  diligence  runs,  passing  by  Riva,  is  18 
m.  For  road  to  Sondrio  and  Bormio, 
and  the  Stelvio,  see  Handbook  of  Swit' 
zer/anJ,  Rte.  87,  and  Handbook  of  South 
Germany f  Rte.  214.  There  are  daily 
diligences  to  Sondrio,  Tirano,  and 
Bormio,  following  a  good  road  along 
the  banks  of  the  upper  Adda,  but  no 
longer  over  the  Stelvio,  although  car- 
riages may  be  hired  at  Bormio  for  the 
Baths  of  Trafoi  and  Mais— a  journey 
only  to  be  attempted  in  summer. 


Como  to  Milan  bt  the  Carbiage- 

ROAD. 

[Although  few  now  travel  otherwise 
than  by  the  Railway,  it  may  suit  per- 
sons travelling  with  vetturino  or  their 
own  horses  to  continue  along  the  old 
post-road  25  m.  (there  are  no  longer 
post- station 8  upon  it),  which  passes  by 

IHno,    The  country  here  has  the  full 


168 


Route  19. — Camo  to  Ijecco  and  Bergamo,  Sect.  III. 


character  of  the  plam  of  Lombardy  — 
leyel,  exceedingly  fertile,  and  dotted 
with  yillas:  maize  and  millet  are  the 
prevailing  crops.  The  road  is  often 
bordered  by  rows  of  trees,  and  mulberry 
fcrees  are  interspersed  in  the  fields. 

Bcwlassinc^  a  town  of  some  ex- 
tent. The  church  which  belonged  to 
the  suppressed  convent  of  Dominicans, 
is  now  converted  into  an  ecclesiasti- 
cal seminary.  The  convent  annexed  to 
it  was  founded  upon  the  spot  where 
St.  Peter  Martyr  was  slain,  as  .com- 
memorated in  Titian's  celebrated  pic- 
ture. About  2  m.  further  on  the  road 
is  Cesano,  belonging  to  the  Borromeo 
family,  who  have  a  large  villa  on  the 
outskirts  of  the  village. 

About  3  m.  beyond  Barlassina,  near 
Bovisio,  and  on  a  slight  eminence  about 
a  mile  on  the  rt.  of  the  road,  stands 
the  Villa  of  Mombello.  It  commands 
a  fine  view  of  the  plain  of  Lom- 
bardy. Here  Napoleon  established 
himself  after  the  fall  of  Yenice.  "  Ne- 
gotiations for  a  final  peace  were  there 
immediately  commenced;  before  the 
end  of  May  the  powers  of  the  ple- 
nipotentiaries had  been  verified,  and 
the  work  of  treaties  was  in  progress. 
There  the  future  Emperor  of  the 
"West  held  his  court  in  more  than  regal 
splendour ;  the  ambassadors  of  the  Em- 
peror of  Germany,  of  the  Pope,  of  Ge- 
noa, Venice,  Naples,  Piedmont,  and  the 
Swiss  republics  assembled  to  examine 
the  claims  of  the  several  states  which 
were  the  subject  of  discussion ;  and 
there  weightier  matters  were  to  be  de- 
termined, and  dearer  interests  were  at 
stake,  than  had  ever  been  submitted  to 
European  diplomacy  smce  the  iron 
crown  was  placed  on  the  brows  of 
Charlemagne.  Josephine  there  received 
the  homage  due  to  the  transcendent 
glories  of  her  youthful  husband ;  Pau- 
line displayed  those  brilliant  charms 
which  afterwards  shone  with  so  mucli 
lustre  at  the  court  of  the  Tuilorics ; 
and  the  ladies  of  Italy,  captivated  by 
the  splendour  of  the  spectacle,  hastened 
to  swell  the  illustrious  train,  and  vied 
with  each  other  in  admiration  of  those 
warriors  whose  deeds  had  filled  the 


world  with  their  renown.  Already  Na- 
poleon acted  as  a  sovereign  prince ;  his 
power  exceeded  that  of  any  living  mo- 
narch; and  he  had  entered  on  that 
dazzling  existence  which  afterwards  en- 
tranced and  subdued' the  world." 
MILAN  (see  Boute  21).] 


ROUTE  19. 

COHO  TO  LECCO  AKD  BEBaAMO. 

This  route,  whilst  it  passes  through 
perhaps  the  most  lovely  country  in 
the  N.  of  Italy,  will  enable  the  tra- 
veller who  has  visited  the  lakes  to  pro- 
ceed to  Venice  without  passing  through 
Milan.  As  we  have  already  remarked, 
most  travellers  who  now  enter  Northern 
Italy  from  the  side  of  Switzerland  do  so 
by  the  great  Alpine  passes  of  the  Sim- 
plon  and  the  St.  Gothard;  to  those 
tliis  route  may  be  preferable,  as  enabling 
them  to  continue  their  examination  of 
tlie  subalpine  region  and  of  the  other 
lakes  on  the  southern  declivity  of  the 
Alps  before  proceeding  to  Venice.  We 
have  already  described  in  the  preceding 
route  the  first  part  of  this  subalpine 
region  between  Laveno  and  Como. 

The  distance  from  Como  to  Lecco  is 
19  m.,  the  road  rather  hilly,  but  in 
every  other  respect  excellent.  A  good 
public  conveyance  leaves  Como  every 
day  for  Lecco  in  4  hrs.,  from  which  the 
Bly.  is  now  open  to  Bergamo,  Brescia, 
and  Venice. 

Leaving  Como  by  the  Porta  Milanese, 
we  soon  begin  to  ascend  the  hills  on 
the  E,  of  the  town,  until  the  road 
attains  its  highest  level  opposite  the 
village  of  Tavernerio  on  the  1.,  before 
which    it    passes    near   CamnagOy  in 


LOMBARDY. 


Eoute  Id.^JErba —  Vol  Aasina. 


169 


the   modest  church  of  which  is  the 
tomb  of  the  celebrated  Volta.     Fur- 

^ther  on,  and  upon  the  rt.,  rises  the 
{»ointed   ridge  of  Montorfano,  which 

' '  will  well  repay  the  geologist  for  visiting 
it  (it  consists  of  strata  of  a  calcareous 
breccia  of  the  Eocene  period) :  the  view 
from  the  summit  is  splendid.    Conti- 
nuing our  road,  we  pass  through  the 
Tillages  of  Cassano  and  Albese  ;  at  the 
entrance  of  the  former,  on  the  1.,  is  a  cu- 
rious leaning  bell-tower.  Beyond  Albese 
we  soon  reach  the  top  of  a  ridge,  from 
which    the  panorama  over  the  Fian 
d'Erba,  the  Lakes  of  Alserio,  Pusiano, 
and  Anone,  backed  by  the  serrated  Al- 
pine peaks  of  Canzo  and  of  the  Bes^one 
di  Lecco,  is  extremely   beautiful.    A 
gradual  descent  of  2  m.  brings  us  to 
Srba,  one  of  the  largest  towns  of  the 
district,  and  which  gives  its  name  to  it, 
the  Pian  d^JErba,    renowned    as    the 
most  fertile  in  the  upper  or  hiUy  re- 
gion of  Lombardy :   there  are  several 
handsome   villas  here,    especially  the 
Villa  Amalia,  celebrated  by  Parini,  from 
the  grounds  of  which  the  view  over  the 
Brianza  is  incomparable.    There  is  a 
very    fair    iim    at    Erba,    where    the 
tourist  not  pressed  for  time  can  take 
up    quarters    and    make    excursions, 
amongst  which  the  most  interesting, 
especially  to  the  geologist,  will  be  to 
the  cavern  called  the  Buco  del  Fiombo, 
3    m.,    excavated    in    the    secondary 
.  ooUtic  hmestone;   to  the  I*ian  di  8. 
PrimOf  celebrated  for  its  huge  erratic 
blocks;  and  in  the  opposite  direction 
to  the  beautiful  villas  of  Sordo  and 
Intveri^Of  the  latter  the  masterpiece  of 
the  Marquis   Cagnola,  the  celebrated 
architect ;  to  Incino,  with  its  tall  Lom- 
bard campamle,  on  the  site  of  the  Bo- 
man  Forum  Licinii ;  and  to  Ccmzoy  and 
even  to  Bellagio  on  the  Lake  of  Gomo, 
ascending  the  very  picturesque  Val  As' 
Hna. 

[An  interesting  excursion  may  be 
made  up  this  valley  from  Erba.  Tra- 
versing a  succession  of  clean  and  thriv- 
ing towns  and  villages,  Mariago  is 
reached  by  2  good  carriage  roads  close 
to  its  small  lake,  abounding  in  fish. 
Canzo  and  Asao,  from  which  the 
N.  Ital^~-ISG6. 


valley  takes  its  name,  are  very  flou- 
rishing Uttle  towns  with  numerous 
silkworks.  Between  Caoso  and  Asso 
there  is  a  handsome  waterfall.  In 
the  centre  of  the  Yal  Assina  runs  the 
Lambro,  which  passes  through  the 
Lake  of  Fusiano  and  by  Monza.  E.  of 
Canzo  rise  the  high  peaks  called  the 
Horns  (Comi  di  Canzo),  covered  with 
snow  a  part  of  the  year.  Beyond  Asso, 
passing  through  the  villages  of  LattUgo 
and  Bamiy  we  reach  Mc^regUo :  at  a 
high  level,  near  it  are  the  sources  of 
the  Lambro.  Ten  minutes  beyond  this 
village  stands  the  small  chapel  of  the 
Madonna  di  OMfola^  where  the  Lake 
of  Lecco,  thousands  of  feet  below,  and 
the  Alps  of  the  YalteUine  and  Q-risons, 
thousands  of  feet  above,  burst  on  the 
tourist's  view.  From  here  the  descent 
commences  to  BeUaggio  by  a  good 
country  road,  opened  17  years  ago 
under  considerable  difficulties  ;  during 
the  zigzag  descent,  shaded  by  chesnut, 
walnut,  and  cherry  trees,  there  are 
beautiful  peeps  on  either  hand  over  the 
Lakes  of  Como  and  Lecco,  but  the  tra- 
veller ought  to  have  3  good  homrs  be- 
fore reaching  Bellaggio  to  enjoy  this 
lovely  descent.  This  excursion  from 
Fusiano  to  Bellaggio  is  about  16  mile 
and  will  occupy  a  good  walker  about  5^ 
hrs.  Instead  of  returning  by  the  same 
route  the  tomist  can  take  the  steam- 
boat at  Bellaggio  for  Como.  There  is 
a  footpath  unattended  with  danger ;  it, 
however,  will  require  9i  hours  for  the 
pedestrian  by  a  succession  of  ascents 
and  descents,  but  the  scenery  is  "  ie- 
witching. ^^  We  would  not  advise  a 
lady  tc  undertake  it.  The  places 
passed  thioughere  Lezzeno,  Cavagnana, 
Nesso,  Careno,  Tomo,  Blevio. — P.  C, 
1862.J 

Two  m.  beyond  Erba  the  Lam- 
hrOy  which  soon  afterwards  empties 
itself  into  the  Lake  of  Fusiano,  is 
crossed,  the  road  approaching  the 
latter  and  that  of  Anone,  passing 
through  the  villages  of  Cesana  and 
Suello,  and  afterwards  over  a  gentle 
rising  ground;  it  follows  from  thence 
the  Eitorto  stream,  the  natural  emis- 
sary of  the  Lake  of  Anone^  to  Malgrate 

I 


170 


Route  20. — Lecco  to  Milan, 


Sect  HI. 


opposite  to  Lecco.  A  road  of  about 
1  m.  down  the  rt.  bank  of  the  Adda, 
leads  to  the  bridge  at  a  short  distance 
from  tlie  town. 

17  m.  Lecoo  {Inns:  Croce  di  Malta, 
in  an  open  situation  and  comfortable, 
—A.  S..,  Oct.  1865  J  Leone  d'Oro),  a 
town  of  8000  Inhab.  on  the  1.  bank 
of  tha  Adda,  where  it  emerges  from 
the  lake  at  the  foot  of  an  elevated 
range  of  mountains  called  the  Rese- 
gone  (saw),  from  its  serrated  sum- 
mit, and  which  forms  so  picturesque 
an  object  in  the  landscape  of  the 
Brianza  and  Pian  d'Erba.  Lecco  is 
situated  on  the  shores  of  the  lake,  which 
sometimes  inundates  its  streets :  it  is 
a  place  of  considerable  trade  in  silk 
and  iron,  of  which  it  has  manufactures. 
The  market  on  Saturdays  is  a  busy 
scene,  and  in  the  Villegiatura  season  is 
the  place  of  rendezvous  of  the  rich 
Milanese  famiUes  from  their  yillas  in 
the  neighbouring  Brianza  and  Pian 
d'Erba.  The  branch  of  the  Lake  of 
Como  at  the  extremity  of  which  Lecco 
is  situated  is  much  wilder  than  the 
W.  arm,  and  offers  Kttle  to  attract 
the  tourist.  A  steamer  starts  once  a 
day  in  winter,  and  twice  in  summer, 
for  Colioo  and  Como,  passengers 
changing  boats  at  Tremezzina.  Dili- 
gences start  daily  to  meet  the  rly.  at 
Monza. 

The  distance  from  Lecco  to  Bergamo 
is  33  kil.  or  21  m.,  time  employ^  1\ 
hrs.  Leaving  Lecoo,  the  line  follows  the 
1.  bank  of  the  Adda,  which  here  widens 
so  as  to  form  a  narrow  lake  called  the 
Lago  di  Olgiuate,  and  the^ver  itself 
for  3  m.  further,  whence  it  runs  in  a 
more  easterly  direction.  Crossing  at 
the  foot  of  the  low  hilly  country,  the 
eastern  continuation  of  the  Brianza, 
beyond  the  Adda,  passing  by, 

7  kil.  Calolzio  Stat., 

8  kil.  Cisano  Stat., 

7  kil.  Mapello  Stat.,  we  reach 
4  kil.  Ponte  San  Pietro  Stat.,  on  the 
Brembo,  a  stream  which,  rising  on  the 
S.  declidty  of  the  high  alpine  ridge 
that  boimds  the  Valtellina  on  the  S., 
empties    itself   into    the    Adda    near 


Vaprio  after  a  long  course  through  the 
Val  Brembana. 

7  kil.  beyond  P.  S.  Pietro  the  rly;*-^ 
reaches  the 

Bergamo  Stat.,  close  to  the  lower ' 
town  (see  Rte.  27). 


ROUTE  20. 

LECOO  TO  MILAN. 

32  m. 

Lecco.     (See  E-te.  19.) 

The  road  which  connects  Lecoo  with 
Milan  is  called  the  Strada  militare, 
being  a  continuation  of  the  great  mili- 
tary road  across  the  Stelvio,  which  is 
carried  along  the  eastern  shore  of  the 
Lake  of  Como.  (See  JECandbook  for 
South  Oermanyy  E-te.  214.)  There  are 
public  conveyances  in  the  morning 
and  afternoon,  to  meet  the  railway 
trains  at  Monza.  On  leaving  Lecco, 
the  road  crosses  the  Adda,  by  a  bridge 
of  10  arches,  built  by  Azzo  Visconti 
in  1335.  The  river  is  here  flowing 
from  the  Lake  of  Lecco  into  the  Lake 
of  Olginate,  or  Pescate.  About  six  miles 
from  Lecco,  a  Kttle  to  thert.  of  the 
road,  is  the  village  of  Greghentino, 
which  gives  its  name  to  the  neighbour- 
ing valley.  Not  far  from  this  place,  in 
descending  to  the  Lake  of  Olginate, 
may  be  seen  an  enormous  assemblage 
of  erratic  boulders.  A  geologist  has 
described  the  spot  by  saying  that  it 
looks  Hke  a  battle-field  in  the  war  of 
the  giants. 

The  road  all  the  way  from  Lecco 
to  Monza  skirts  the  district  which  is 
known  by  the  name  of  La  Brianza, 
the  last    devations  of  the    Alps,   or 


LoMBABDY.  B&ute  21. —  Coma  to  Milan  by  Monza. 


171 


what  may  be  called  the  Subalpine 
hiUs,  towards  the  great  plain  of 
Lombardy.  Its  boundaries  are  not 
exactly  fixed,  but  generally  the  Bri- 
anza  is  held  to  include  the  hilly  coijn- 
try  between  the  Adda  and  the  Lambro, 
from.  Lecco  and  Valmadrera,  down  to 
Monza,  and  on  the  W.  of  the  Lambro, 
from  the  neighbourhood  of  Arosio  to 
Como,  and  the  foot  of  the  mountains 
lying  between  the  Lakes  of  Como  and 
Lecco.  These  mountains  enclose  the 
head  valley  of  the  Lambro,  called  the 
Vallasina.  The  Brianza  is  celebrated 
iot  its  richness  and  beauty :  its  intelli- 
gent inhabitants  are  masters  of  the  art 
of  cultivating  the  mulberry  and  rear- 
ing the  silkworm,  as  well  as  in  the 
preparation  of  the  raw  article  for  manu- 
.fecture.  The  finest  silk  in  Lombardy 
is  produced  in  this  district. 

H  Carsaniga.  To  the  eastward  of 
this  lies  the  Montorobbio,  which  pro- 
duces the  best  wine  of  the  Milanese. 

Arcore.  There  is  a  fine  villa  belong- 
ing to  the  d'Adda  family  here.  The 
chapel  near  the  park  gate  is  a  hand- 
some modem  building  in  the  cinque- 
cento  style :  in  it  is  a  beautiful  monu- 
ment to  a  young  Countess  d'Adda,  by 
the  Swiss  sculptor  Vela,  and  a  fine 
Madonna  over  the  altar  by  the  same 
distinguished  artist.  Before  reaching 
Monza  the  road  runs  along  the  Boyal 
park  on  the  rt. 

1  Monza.  See  E-te.  21. 
The  Strada  militare  for  half  the 
distance  to  Milan  runs  nearly  parallel 
to,  and  at  a  short  distance  from,  the 
railroad.  Halfway  to  Milan  it  crosses 
it,  and  thence  nms  in  a  straight  Hne 
to  Loreto,  where  it  falls  into  the 
Bergamo  and  Brescia  road,  which 
enters  Milan  by  the  Porta  Orientale. 
The  old  post-road  enters  Milan  by  the 
Porta  Nuova,  running  during  the  last 
two  miles  close  by  the  side  of  the  canal 
of  theMartesana.  To  the  rt.  of  the  road, 
about  two  miles  after  having  crossed 
the  railroad,  is  La  Bicocca,  where  the 
French,  under  Lautrec,  were  defeated 
by  the  ImperiaUsts,  27th  April,  1522. 
li  MILAN.    See  Route  21. 


ROUTE  21. 

OOMO  TO  taSJiS,  BY  HONZA — ^EAIL. 


Como  to 
Cucclago  . 
Camnago. 
Ser^no   . 


KIL. 

.  1 
.  16 
.  22 


KIL. 

Desio 25 

Monza 32 

Sesto 38 

Milan 45 


28  miles. 


Railway  from  Camerlata  near  Como 
to  Milan :  trains  four  times  a-day ; 
time  employed  IJ  to  IJ  hour  :  fares 
5  frs.  45  c.  and  4  frs.  An  omnibus  (50  c.) 
leaves  Como  to  meet  every  train. 
Omnibuses  are  in  attendance  at  all  the 
stations  to  convey  passengers  to  the 
towns  in  the  Brianza. 

[The  old  post-road,  nearly  parallel  to 
the  railway,  may,  from  its  more  beau- 
tiful scenery,  be  preferred  by  many. 

Leaving  Camerlata,  the  Rlwy.  runs 
through  a  beautiful  country,  covered 
with  rich  vegetation.  The  roots  of  the 
Alps  extend  in  successive  ranges  before 
us  ;  and  the  foregrounds,  especially 
near  Como,  are  beautiful.  The  vegeta- 
tion is  luxuriant,  and,  like  all  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  the  lake,  more  south- 
ern than  that  which  the  traveller  will 
find  at  Milan.  Mulberry- trees  abound, 
the  district  being  celebrated  for  its 
silk ;  and  the  exotics,  naturalised  by 
the  more  wealthy  inhabitants,  who  de- 
light in  their  gardens,  flourish  in  the 
utmost  luxuriance.  The  Catalpa  is 
very  common.] 

6|  kil.  Cucciago  Stat.,  about  2  m.  on 
the  1.  of  which  is 

Cantil,  in  a  rich  district  of  the  Brianza. 
The    bell-tower   of  the  church,   with 

I  2 


172 


BotUe  21. — -Monza — Duomo. 


Sect.  III. 


its  projecting  battlements,  is  slender 
and  tall.  In  the  middle  ages  it  was 
used  as  a  beacon,  corresponding  with 
that  upon  the  Monte  di  Baradello. 
The  fires  blazing  on  the  summit  have 
often  announced  the  advance  of  the 
Milanese  against  the  Comaschi  during 
their  frequent  wars;  and  the  Bara- 
dello, equallj  bj  its  fires,  gave  notice 
of  the  approach  of  any  enemy  on  the 
side  <^f  the  lake. 

Galliano,  near  Cantti,  has  a  curious 
Lombard  church,  now  a  bam.  It 
contains  Christian  inscriptions  of  the 
4th  centy.  Some  ancient  frescoes, 
executed  in  the  11th,  were  painted 
by  order  of  Arimbert,  the  celebrated 
Archbishop  of  Milan.  They  contain, 
as  it  is  supposed,  portraits  of  the 
Emperor  Henry  and  his  wife  Cune- 
gunda.  The  baptistery  is  remarkable. 
The  building  was  sold  as  national  pro- 
perty during  the  French  occupation. 
From  Cuociago  the  rlwy.  follows  the 
Severo  torrent  as  far  act 

9  kil.  CamtMgo  Stat.  At  Meda^  a 
short  distance  on  the  L,  are  the  ruins 
of  an  extensive  monastery. 

6  kil.  Seregno  Stat.  2  m.  on  the  1.  is 
the  village  of  Cartxte^  on  a  rising  ground 
above  the  Lambro ;  sm  agreeable  excur- 
sion may  be  made  from  here  to  Iwoe- 
rigOy  the  beautiful  villa  of  the  Marquis 
CagnolA,  a  fine  specimen  of  his  archi- 
tecture. The  view  from  the  top  of 
it  commands  the  entire  region  of  the 
Brianza. 

3  kil.  Desio  Stat.  Here  the  Torriani 
were  entirely  routed  by  the  Viscontis 
in  1277.  The  Villa  Tramersa,  with  a 
fine  garden,  is  the  principal  object  to 
be  visited  in  Desio.  It  contains  some 
curious  Boman  inscriptions. 

7  kil.  MoifZA  Stat,  at  the  S.  extremity 
of  the  town.  {IniM :  II  Falcone,  tolerable ; 
TAngelo.)  This  city,  the  ancient  Mo- 
dcetia,  is  divided  into  two  nearly  equal 
parts  by  the  Lambro.  It  has  a  Pop.  of 
16,000. 

The  Broletto,  or  town-hall,  is  attri- 
buted to  Frederick  Barbarossa :  some 
say  it  was  a  portion  of  a  palace  built  by 
him.  It  is  of  Italian  Gothic,  with  a 
Minghiera  between  two  handsome  win- 


dows on  the  S.  side.  Annexed  to  it  is 
a  fine  and  lofty  campanile,  with  forked 
battlements. 

The  Cathedral  or  Duomo.  "  On  the 
spot  where  this  building  now  stands 
Theodolinda  erected,  in  595,  a  splendid 
temple  in  honour  of  St.  John  the  Bap- 
tist. The  church  of  Theodolinda  was 
not  on  the  Latin  plan,  but  on  the  Byzan- 
tine. It  was  an  equilateral  cross,  sur- 
mounted by  a  dom&  For  above  600 
years  this  building  remained  unaltered. 
At  the  close  of  the  13th  centy.  Matteo 
Magno  Visconti,  Lord  of  Milan,  with 
the  assistance  of  the  oblations  of  the 
people,  undertook  the  reconstruction  of 
the  church  upon  a  larger  scale.  But 
he  left  his  work  unfinished ;  for  the 
£&9ade  was  not  commenced  till  the  year 
1396.  In  that  year  the  celebrated  aj> 
chitect,  Matteo  di  Campione,  was  em- 
ployed to  give  a  design  for  the  fagade. 
and  he  constructed  it  in  the  form  which 
it  exhibits  at  present.  This  fagade  is  a 
curious  specimen  of  the  cabinet  style 
prevalent  in  Italy  at  that  pmod ;  a 
style  which  attempts  to  please  the  eye 
rather  by  a  subdivision  of  parts,  and  a 
variety  of  patterns,  in  marbles  of  dif- 
ferent shapes  and  colours,  than  by  the 
form  of  the  building  itself.  In  the  in- 
terior some  of  the  capitals  of  the  pillars 
are  ornamented  with  barbarous  figures, 
and  must  be  older  than  the  14th  oenty . 
Frisi  is  of  opinion  that  they  formed  no 
part  of  the  Lombard  church,  but  had 
belonged  to  some  11th  centy.  building, 
and  were  removed  from  thence  to  their 
present  situation." — &,  Knight. 

The  PaUiotOf  or  front  of  the  altar,  of 
silver-gilt,  perhaps  of  the  10th  centy.,  is 
entirely  covered  with  Scripture  his- 
tories, inlaid  with  enamel  and  coarse 
gems.  The  Cantoned  or  galleries  for 
the  singers,  on  either  .side  of  the  nave, . 
are  of  rich  Gothic  work,  and  are  worthy 
of  attention,  as  well  as  the  woodwork 
of  the  choir.  In  the  chapel  in  the 
adjoining  cemetery  is  the  shrivelled 
corpse  of  Ettore  Visconti  (a  natural 
son  of  Bemabo),  a  partisan,  who  be- 
came, for  a  short  time,  one  of  the 
leaders  of  Milan.  Expelled  by  Puke 
FUippo  Maria,   he  seized  the  Castle 


LOMBARDY. 


Bxmte  2\,-^M(mza — Duomo — Belies. 


173 


of  Monza,  where  a  shot  from  a  springall 
broiEe  his  leg,  an  injury  of  which  he 
died  (1413)  :  he  was  buried  in  this  ba- 
silica ;  and  his  body  haTing  been  acci- 
dentally disinterred,  it  has  since  re- 
mained above  ground. 

Theodolinda,  whose  memory,  like 
those  of  Bertha  in  Switzerland,  and  Eli- 
zabeth in  England,  was  cherished  by  the 
people  beyond  that  of  any  male  sove- 
reign, Charlemagne  himself  scarcely  ex- 
cepted, and  whose  beauty,  wisdom,  and 
piety  were  aU  equally  transcendent,  was 
the  daughter  of  Garibold  King  of  the 
Bavarians,  and  became  the  wife  of  Au- 
tharis  King  of  the  Lombards  (589). 
Upon  the  death  of  Autharis,  which 
happened  six.  years  after  their  mar- 
riage, the  Lombards  offered  the  crown 
to  Theodolinda,  with  the  intimation 
that  whomsoever  she  would  select  for 
her  husband  they  would  acknowledge 
as  their  sovereign.  She  chose  Agelul- 
phus  (sometimes  called  Astolf)  Duke  of 
Turin.  Yaliant  and  ambitious,  he  con- 
templated becoming  master  of  Eome ; 
but  Theodolinda  diverted  him  from 
this  enterprise.  She  thus  earned  the 
gratitude  and  the  friendship  of  Pope 
Gregory  the  G-reat,  who  dedicated  his 
Dialogues  to  her. 

The  Sacristy  of  the  Dnomo  is  one 
of  the  most  curious  of  medieeval 
museums.  It  has  been  much  plundered, 
especially  during  the  r^ubHcan  rule  at 
the  end  of  the  last  oenty .  The  following 
are  «ome  of  the  more  remarkable  objects 
which  it  still  contains  : — Theodolinda* s 
fan^  OTjlabellum,  of  painted  leather,  with 
a  massive,  metallic,  enamelled  handle. 
Her  comb,  ornamented  with  gold  filigree 
and  emeralds.  Her  crown,  a  plain 
diadem  set  with  coarse  gems.  Theodo- 
linda* s  hen  and  chickens^  a  species  of 
tray  of  silver  gilt,  upon  which  are  the 
figures  of  the  Chioccia,  6r  Ohueky,  and 
her  seven  chickens.  The  hen's  eyes 
are  of  rubies.  It  is  said  by  antiqua- 
rians to  typify  either  the  arch-priest 
and  chapter  of  the  church  of  Monza, 
or  the  seven  provinces  of  the  Lom- 
bard kingdom.  The  probability  is  that 
this  gift  of  the  Queen  was  in  £ebct  only 
a  pliS^au  or  ornament  for  her  banquet 


tahle.  The  list  of  relics  sent  hy  Pope 
Ghregory  the  Great  to  Theodolinda^ 
written  upon  papyrus :  some  say  it  is 
his  autograph.  The  celebrated  anti- 
quary Maffei  calls  this  the  "  king  of 
papyri."  One  of  these  relics  consists  of 
drops  of  oiltakenfromthelamps  burning 
before  the  tombs  of  the  martyrs  in  the 
catacombs.  TheodoUnda*s  JSvangelista' 
rium  or  Gospel-book,  The  binding  is  of 
gold  and  silver  gilt,  rudely  set  with  rough 
stones,  glass  placed  over  coloured  foil, 
and  fine  ancient  intaglios,  characteristic 
of  the  age  of  transition  from  the  Roman 
to  mediseval  times.  A  cross,  given 
to  the  Queen  by  the  Pope  upon  the 
occasion  of  the  baptism  of  her  eldest 
child :  it  is  now  worn  by  the  arch-priest 
on  certain  great  occasions  and  festivals. 
It  is  composed,  in  front,  of  rock  ciystal; 
the  back  is  worked  in  gold  filigree. 
Theodolinda's  cup,  said  to  be  hollowed 
out  of  a  soUd  sapphire.  It  is  about 
three  inches  in  diameter.  The  colour 
of  the  material  (probably  very  fine  glass, 
like  the  catino  of  Q-enoa)  is  exceedingly 
rich.  The  Gothic  setting  bears  the 
date  of  1490. 

In  a  curious  bas-relief  over  the  centre 
doorway  of  the  church  Theodolinda  is 
represented  offering  her  gifts. 

The  Cross,  or  pectoral,  employed  in 
the  coronation  of  the  kings  of  Italy, 
and  which  it  was  the  custom  to  hang 
round  the  neck  of  the  sovereign.  It 
is  massive,  and  richly  decorated — ^not 
merely  with  uncut  stones,  but  with 
ancient  engraved  gems ;  amongst  others, 
there  is  appended  to  it  an  amethyst, 
exhibiting  a  Diana,  of  excellent  work- 
manship. 

The  Sacramentary  of  Berengarius 
King  of  Italy.  This  monarch  is  some- 
times reckoned  as  Berengarius  I. 
amongst  the  Roman  emperors.  The 
son  of  Everard  Duke  of  Friuli,  Be- 
rengarius obtained  his  authority  upon 
the  division  of  the  empire  which  took 
place  on  the  death  of  Charles  the 
Fat,  in  888.  The  coverings  of  this 
book  are  of  pierced  ivoiy,  plates  of 
gold  placed  beneath  shining  between 
the  interstices.  On  one  side  are  scroUs 
mterlaced,  springing  from  birds  j    on 


174 


Eaute  21. — Monza — Duomo — Iron  Crown, 


Sect.  III. 


the  other  are  runic  knots,  elaborately 
interlaced,  springing  from  a  centnd 
ornament  composed  of  four  grotesque 
animals,  from  whose  mouths  the  root 
of  each  knot  is  seen  to  issue.  These  sin- 
gular carvings  are  probably  Teutonic ; 
for,  excepting  a  greater  delicacy  in  the 
workmanship,  they  are  exactly  such  as 
are  found  upon  Scandinavian  monu- 
ments. The  services  which  the  book 
contains  stand  as  they  were  composed 
by  Pope  G-regory ;  and  in  it  may  be 
found  the  collects  of  our  own  Liturgy. 

Another  very  curious  volume  is 
the  Svangelistarium  of  Aribert  or 
Heribert,  Abp.  of  Milan  (1018-1045). 

Three  ivoiy  diptychs,  of  much  better 
workmanship  than  is  usually  the  case 
with  sculptures  of  this  description. 
The  first  and  most  curious  represents, 
on  one  leaf,  a  poet  or  a  philosopher  in 
his  study ;  on  the  other  a  muse  striking 
the  lyre  with  the  plectrum.  The  whole 
is  finely  carved.  Claudian  and  Auso- 
nius  are  both  candidates  for  the  por- 
trait. Antiquaries  give  it  to  Boethius, 
upon  conjecture.  The  second  repre- 
sents two  figures  in  consular  robes, 
with  the  Boman  eagle,  and  other  in- 
signia. The  original  names  have  been 
effaced,  and  those  of  Pope  Gregory 
and  David  substituted.  The  third  is 
remarkable  for  the  boldness  of  the 
relief.  The  principal  figures  are  an 
emperor  with  the  pahtdamentum,  and 
a  female  in  rich  attire. 

The  celebrated  Iron  Crovm  is  no 
longer  here  ;  it  was  carried  ojff  by  the 
Austrians,  on  their  expulsion  from 
Lombardy,  to  Mantua  in  May,  1859, 
and  since  then  to  Vienna ;  an  exact 
model  of  it  has  been  retained,  as  well 
as  some  pieces  of  the  true  cross, 
of  the  sponge,  of  the  Holy  Sepul- 
chre, and  of  the  reed  held  by  Christ ; 
and  one  of  the  thorns  of  the  crown. 
The  thin  plate  or  fillet  of  iron  which 
lined  the  diadem,  and  from  which  the 
crown  derived  its  name,  is  supposed  to 
have  been  hammered  from  one  of  the 
nails  employed  at  the  Crucifixion  ;  and 
hence  the  crown  is  also  called  II  snAyro 
Chiodo.  It  may  be  readily  supposed 
that  there  is  not  the  slightest  founda- 


tion for  the  belief  in  such  an  origin, 
and  the  Church  of  Milan  opposed  the 
tradition;  but  their  objections  were 
overcome  by  the  congregation  "  of  the 
Rites'*  at  Rome,  by  whom  the  relic 
was  pronounced  to  be  authentic,  and, 
when  it  was  exhibited,  tapers  were 
lighted  and  much  ceremony  observed. 
The  traditions  of  Monza  relate  that 
this  crown  was  given  by  Gregory  the 
Great  to  Queen  TheodoHnda;  yet 
notliing  is  really  known  respecting  its 
origin,  nor  was  it  regularly  used  in 
the  coronation  of  the  kings  of  Italy. 
Henry  VII.  (or  Henry  of  Luxemburg) 
is  the  first  who  is  known  with  any 
certainty  to  have  worn  it,  1311.  The 
crown  was  carried  for  that  purpose  to 
MUan,  in  spite  of  the  remonstrances 
of  the  inhabitants  of  Monza.  Charles 
V.  was  the  last  of  the  later  emperors 
crowned  with  it;  and  the  crown  re- 
mained quietly  as  a  relic  in  the  Tesoro, 
until  Napoleon,  anxious  to  connect  his 
dignity  with  the  recollections  of  the  past, 
placed  it  with  his  own  hands  upon  his 
head,  disdaining  to  receive  it  from  the 
Bishop,  and  using  the  words,  "  Dieu 
me  Va  donnS,  gare  d,  qui  la  toucheJ* 
It  has  been  since  used  at  the  corona- 
tion of  the  two  last  Emperors  of  Aus- 
tria, and  formed  part  of  the  royal  in- 
signia of  the  Lombardo- Venetian  king- 
dom, until  its  recent  removal. 

A  curious  hce^-relief  in  the  chapel  of 
Sem  Stefcmo  represents  the  coronation 
of  an  Emperor.  The  six  Electors  as- 
sisting are  the  Archbishop  of  Cologne, 
as  Arch- Chancellor  of  Italy ;  the  Duke 
of  Saxony  ;  the  Archbishop  of  Treves  ; 
the  Landgrave  or  Count  Palatine  of 
the  Rhine;  the  Archbishop  of  May- 
ence;  and  the  Elector  of  Branden- 
burg. The  seventh  Elector,  the  King 
of  Bohemia,  is  absent,  and  this  circum- 
stance shows'  that  the  bas-reUef  is 
earlier  than  1290,  when  he  was  ad- 
mitted into  the  Electoral  College.  It 
will  be  noticed  that  the  crown  which 
the  Arch- Priest  of  Monza  is  here  re- 
presented to  place  on  tlie  head  of  the 
Emperor  is  not  the  Iron  Crown,  but 
one  decorated  with  fleurons.  This 
bas-relief  seems,  irom.  its  inscription. 


LOMBARDY. 


Route  21. — MUan — Inns, 


175- 


to  have  been  put  up  by  the  people  of 
Monza  as  a  memorial  of  their  right  to 
have  the  coronation  performed  here,  in 
preference  to  Milan.  The  chapel  of  S. 
Maria  del  Kosario  contains  some  cu- 
rious frescoes,  representing  events  in 
the  history  of  Theodolinda,  by  one 
TroH  of  Monza,  bearing  date  1444 

The  only  other  ch.  of  Monza  worth 
notice,,  and  this  desecrated,  is  Santa 
Maria  in  Strada,  remarkable  for  its 
very  elaborate  W.  front  in  terracotta, 
and  fine  rose  window. 

The  Palace  of  Monza  is  an  extensive 
edifice,  but  has  nothing  in  or  about  it 
(excepting  the  size  of  the  apartments) 
above  a  country  mansion.  The  park 
is  large,  well  laid  out,  and  abounds  in 
game.  The  gardens  are  very  rich  in 
jexotic  plants.  It  was  in  former  times 
the  country  residence  of  the  Viceroy, 
and  is  now  occasionally  that  of  the 
King  of  Sardinia. 

The  Railro€td  has  rendered  Monza 
almost  a  suburb  of  Milan.  Trains  run 
six  times  a  day  in  20  minutes. 

6  kil.  Sesto  Stat.,  in  a  very  fertile 
plain,  with  many  country-seats  around. 

8  kil.  Milan  Stat. — There  is  one 
great  and  central  station  for  passen- 
gers in  all  directions,  a  very  hand- 
some edifice,  outside  the  New  Gate 
or  Porta  del  Principe  TJmberto,  on  the 
N.  side  of  the  city.  Nothing  can  be 
better  than  the  arrangements  here  for 
the  comfort  and  convenience  of  travel- 
lers, pi-esenting  a  singular  contrast  in 
this  respect,  and  particularly  as  regards 
order  and  cleanliness,  with  our  metro- 
politan stations  at  home.  There  is  a 
good  Buffet  attached  to  it.  Omnibuses 
&om  all  the  principal  hotels  are  in  at- 
tendance on  the  arrival  of  the  trains 
(1  f.  including  luggage),  and  plenty 
of  broughams  and  open  cabs.  This 
fine  station  is  now  rendered  greatly 
more  accessible  since  the  new  gate  has 
been  cut  through  the  ramparts.  Fares 
of  hackney  cabs>  1  fr.  50  cent,  to  2  frs., 
according  to  the  quantity  of  luggage. 

Hotels,— The  H.  de  la  Yille  (not 
to  be  confounded  with  the  H6tel  de 
la  Yille  de  Milan),  kept  by  Baer,  in 


the  Corso  di  Vittorio  Emanuele,  for- 
merly di  Francisco,  and  di  Porta- 
Orientale,  one  of  the  best  situations  in* 
Milan,  open  and  airy,  is  an  excellent 
house,  and  handsomely  fitted  up  with 
every  cleanliness  and  comfort ;  a  good 
table-d'hdte  at  4,V  fr.  without  wine, 
cofiee  and  reading  room,  master  and 
waiters  speaking  English;  the  other 
charges  being  —  breakfast  with  eggs 
2  frs.,  without  li  fr. ;  dejeftner  k  la 
fourchette,  3  frs. ;  bedrooms  from  3  frs^ 
upwards ;  dinner  in  apartments  7  frs^ 
without  wine  ;  service  1  fr.  a  day. 

The  Albergo  Beale,  in  the  Contrada 
dei  Tre  B^,  kept  by  Bruschetti,  is  also 
a  first-rate  hotel,  clean  aad  quiet,  with 
a  very  obliging  landlord,  and  a  good 
table-d'hdte  at  4  frs.  Brusehetti  speaks 
English  as  well  as  his  servants.  Both 
these  hotels  are  well  suited  for  Englisk 
families. 

H.  Cavour,  nearest  to  the  Rly.  Stat.,, 
a  new  establishment,  in  the  H.  du 
Louvre  style,  very  elegantly  and 
most  comfortably  fitted  up,  and  spot- 
lessly clean  (A.  R^  Oct.  1865),  and  in 
an  airy  and  agreeable  situation  on  the 
Public  Gardens,  and  at  a  short  distance 
from  the  principal  theatres  and  clubs. 
Charges  moderate  :  bedrooms  from 
2 J  to  5  frs.,  according  to  the  floor ; 
table-d'h6te,  including  good  vin  ordi- 
naire, 5  frs. ;  breakfast  with  eggs,  2 
frs. ;  service  1  fr.  per  diem.  English 
1V.C.  New  reading  and  smoking-room, 
with  a  large  supply  of  English,  French, 
and  Italian  newspapers.  The  manager, 
Valletta,  having  lived  long  in  EngUsh 
families,  is  well  up  to  the  wants  of 
our  traveUing  countrymen. 

H.  de  la  Q-ran  Bretagna,  in  the  Con- 
trada  della  Palla,  in  the  centre  of  the 
city,  much  improved,  "  is  clean,  com- 
fortable, and  with  a  civil  landlord." 

H.  Bicichman,  in  the  Corso  di  Porta 
Bomana,  is  mostly  frequented  by  Ger- 
mans and  commercial  travellers,  but 
inferior  to  the  four  first,  and  without 
their  comforts,  although  with  as  high 
charges. 

The  H.  de  Milan,  recently  opened 
in  the  Strada  del  Giardino,  not  far 
from  La  Scala  theatre. 


176 


Route  21  •-^MUan — Conveyances. 


Sect.  III. 


La  Bella  Y enezia,  La  Pension  Suisse, 
and  San  Marco,  all  three  comfortable, 
frequented  more  by  Italian  fiEunilies : 
the  latter,  which  is  near  the  post-office, 
is  well  spoken  ofl 

Vetiurini,  for  all  parts  of  Italy  and 
Switzerland,  may  be  found  at  Milan. 
The  innkeepers  can  be  trusted  to  nego- 
tiate the  bargain. 

Carriages  may  be  hired  for  the  day 
or  job.  A  good  carriage  for  4  frs.  an 
hour,  half  a  day  for  about  12  fr.,  and 
the  buonamano  of  2  fr.  to  the  driyer. 

Fiacres  are  very  good.  Lists  of  the 
&res  are  placed  inside;  75  cent,  a  course 
or  for  i  an  hour,  and  li  an  hour ;  26  c* 
for  each  parcel  of  luggage  placed  outside. 
Omnibuses.  There  are  numerous 
lines  of  these  yehicles  to  erery  quarter 
of  the  town ;  fares,  10  o.  within  the 
walls,  and  25  from  the  Bly.  Stat.,  ex- 
dusiye  of  charge  for  luggage. 

During  the  summer  the  fashionable 
eyening  drive  is  in  the  Corso  di  Porta 
Orientale,  now  Y.  Emmanuele,  and 
along  the  Boulevard  between  it  and 
Porta  Nuoya;  particularly  on  Sundays 
and  Thursdays,  the  greatest  Corso  being 
on  the  first  Sunday  in  Lent. 

This  city  is  the  centre  of  business ; 
and  all  pecuniary  transactions  can  be 
well  managed  here.  The  CamUa 
Monete,  or  money-changers,  are  nu- 
merous ;  most  live  near  the  Duomo. 
As  the  monetary  transactions  at  Milan 
are  extensive,  this  is  a  very  lucrative 
business.  The  value  of  foreign  coins 
is  printed  daily,  with  the  rates  of  ex- 
change on  different  countries,  so  that 
the  traveller  runs  little  risk  of  being 
imposed  upon. 

The  Post-Office  is  in  the  Contrada 
dei  Bastrelli,  near  the  Duomo.  It 
opens  at  8  a.m.,  when  lettws  are  de- 
livered, and  shuts  at  8  f.m  ;  on  Sun- 
days at  3.  The  maai  which  carries  the 
English  letters  (through  Paris)  is  that 
by  Turin :  it  leaves  daily  at  6  f.k., 
and  arrives  about  midday.  Between 
Milan  and  London  a  letter  takes  2 
days.  Prepayment  is  not  absolutely 
necessary,  but  unpaid  letters  are 
charged  double  on  delivery  in  France 
^)i.d  England. 


The  principal  PtibUc  Conneym^ees  are 
the  following : — 

lAicemey  by  Bellinzona  and  the  St. 
Gk)thard.  By  rly.  to  Camerlata  near 
Como,  at  5*35  a.k.  and  2*30  p.m.,  and 
from  there  by  diligence.  Places  may 
be  secured  in  Milan  or  at  Camerlata. 
These  dil.  go  on  direct,  and  arrive  at 
Fluellen  on  the  Lake  of  Lucerne  in 
24hrs. 

Zwrich  by  Como,  CMaoennOy  Coire^ 
and  from  tnere  by  Bly.  at  5*35  a.m. 
and  2*30  p.m.  ;  nom  Como,  by  the 
steamboats  to  Colico  at  8  a.m.  and  4*45 
P.M.,  whence  the  diligence  starts  by 
Chiavenna  and  the  Splugen  Pass,  arriv- 
ing at  4*15  A.M.  and  4  P.M.,  in  time  at 
Coire  for  the  Ely.  train  to  Zurich. — 
Diligence  daily  by  Bellinzona  and  the 
Bernardino  Pass.  The  latter,  like  that. 
to  Lucerne,  now  starts  from  Camerlata. 

Diligences  to  Sondrio,  Bormio,  in 
the  YsJtellina,  &c.,  twice  a  day,  in  cor- 
respondence with  the  Bly.  to  Como 
and  the  boats  on  the  Lake. 

Jjausatme  and  Geneva,  To  Arona  by 
rly.,  and  from  there  by  diligence  to 
Domo  d*  Ossola,  the  Simplon,  to  Sion 
(where  the  rly.  commences),  to  Yevay, 
and  Lausanne ;  the  coach  leaves  Arona 
at  12*30  P.M.,  corresponding  with  the 
rly.  train  of  7*45  p.m.  from  Milan,  and 
reaches  Domo  d'Oseola  at  6*40  a.m. 
(crossing  the  Simplon  by  daylight), 
arriving  at  Sion  at  10  p.m.,  in  tune  for 
the  rly.  train  for  Lausanne  which 
starts  at  10*40  p.m.,  and  reaches  Lau- 
sanne at  2,  and  Geneva  at  4  A.ic. 
There  is  a  second  dihgenoe,  which 
goes  to  Sion,  where  passengers  sleep, 
leaving  Milan  at  the  same  hour  (745), 
reaching  Lausanne  at  8*25,  and  Geneva 
at  10*22  A.M.  on  the  2nd  day. 

Railways  to  Piacenza,  Parma,  Mo- 
dena,  Bologna^  Ancona,  and  JBrindisi. 

The  rly.  trains  to  Monza  run  6,  and 
to  Como  4,  times  a-day. 

The  railroad  to  Yenice  is  open  all 
the  way,  by  Bergamo,  Brescia^  Ye- 
rona,  Padua,  Yenice,  and  from  the 
latter  to  Treviso,  Conegliano,  Udine, 
Trieste,  and  Yienna.  There  are  two 
trains  daily,  which  leave  Milan  at  7*45 


LOMBARDY. 


JRoiUe  21. — Milan — Histm^, 


177 


4.M.,  and  12*30  P.if.,  reachicg  Venice 
at  5-50  and  10*30  p.m.  j  to  Cremona 
from  Treviglio ;  to  Genoa  by  Pavia  and 
Alessandria;  to  Grallarate,  Sesto  Ca- 
lende,  and  shortly  from  the  latter  to 
Varese. 

Physicians. — There  are  2  physicians 
who  have  lived  in  England  and  speak 
English — Dr.  CapeUi,  who  lives  in  the 
Corsia  del  Giardino ;  Dr.  Sapolini, 
consulting  physician  to  the  King,  in 
the  Palazzo  Beale;  and  Mr.  Walker, 
Member  of  the  London  College  of  Sur- 
geons, 26,  Via  della  Passarella^  near  the 
H6tel  de  la  ViUe. 

Apothecaries  and  Chemists. — Siva, 
Palazzi,  7,  Piazza  della  Scala;.  Mon- 
teggia,  Corso  di  Vittorio  Emanuele, 
opposite  the  Hdtel  de  la  Ville. 

Protestant  Divine  Service.  There  is 
a  Protestant  ch.  in  the  Corsia  di  Porta 
Vercellina,  opposite  the  Palazzo  Litta, 
where  the  service  is  performed  every 
Sunday,  alternately  in  French  and 
German.  The  Ch.  of  England  service 
is  celebrated  by  a  resident  clergyman, 
in  a  building  granted  by  the  govem- 
m^it  and  appropriately  fitted  up,  at 
No.  12,  Vicolo  di  San  Giovanni  in 
Conca,  every  Sunday  at  11  A.H.  and 
7  P.M.,  and  the  Sacrament  is  admini- 
stered on  the  first  Sunday  of  every 
month.  There  are  about  150  resident 
British  Protestants  in  MUan,  and  8000 
passing  annually.  The  chaplain  holds 
his  appointment  from  the  Colonial 
and  Continental  Church  Society  of 
London,  but  the  expenses  are  met  by 
voluntary  subscriptions. 

Hestaurateurs  and  Cafes.  Canetta 
(successor  to  Cova),  Contrada  San  Giu- 
seppe, near  La  Scala  Theatre,  is  the 
best;  this  cafe  is  well  supplied  with 
newspapers.  Martini.  St.  Carlo,  L*Su- 
ropa,  and  all  in  the  Corso  V.  Ema- 
nuele. 

BooJcsellers. — Artaria  and  Co.,  in 
the  Via  Santa  Margherita,  No.  1110,  for 
Guide-books,  maps  of  the  Austrian  Mih- 
tary  Survey,  engravings,  &c. ;  Messrs. 
Artaria  are  obl^ing,  and  well  supplied 
with  all  works  necessary  for  travellers  in 
Italy  and  Switzerland,  Handbooks,  &c., 
aud  are  .agents  for  the  sale  of  Siiii- 

N.  Italy— ISQQ, 


gaglia's  and  other  photographic  views 
of  Milan,  of  Pozzi's  photographs  of  the 
drawings  of  the  old  masters  which  are 
preserved  in  the  Brera  and  Ambrosian 
Libraries,  and  of  Leonardo  da  Vinci's 
and  Lidni's  frescoes.  Dumolarcf  freres, 
in  the  Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele,  French 
booksellers.  Laenger,  in  the  Galleria  di 
Cristoferis. 

The  Pop.  of  Milan  in  1863  amounted 
to  220,600,  or  including  the  suburbs 
266,950. 

Milan,  founded  by  the  Insubrian 
Gauls,  became,  in  point  of  splendour, 
the  second  city  ot  Italy,  filled  with 
temples,  baths,  theatres,  statues,  and 
all  the  structures  required  for  the  dig- 
nity and  luxury  of  a  great  capital. 
Ausonius,  who  flourished  under  the 
Emperor  Gratian,  towards  the  end 
of  the  fourth  century,  assigns  to  it 
the  rank  of  the  sixth  city  in  the 
Empire.  He  describes  it  in  these 
Hues: — 

"  Et  Mediolani  mira  omnia, — copia  rerum : 
Innumene,  cultaeque  domus,  feeanda  virorum 
Ingenia,  antiqui  mores.    Turn  duplice  muro 
Amplificata  loci  species,  populique  voluptas 
Circus,  et  inclusi  moles  cuneata  theatri : 
Templa«  Platinnaue  azces,  opulensque  moneta, 
£t  regio  Herculei  Celebris  sub  honore  lavacri, 
Cunctaqae  marmoreis  omata  peristyla  signis, 
Ma^niaque  in  valli  formam  cireamdata  labro ; 
Omnia,  qu»  magnis  operum  velut   lemula 

formis 
Excellunt :  nee  Juncta  premit  vicinia  Rome." 

Procopii^,  a  century  later,  speaks 
of  Mediolanum  as  one  of  the  first 
cities  of  the  West,  and  inferior  only 
to  Kome  in  population  and  extent.  Its 
ancient  edifices  and  monuments  have 
all  disappeared,  save  one  portico  (see 
San  Lorenzo) ;  a  column  {see  Sant* 
Ambrogio)  ;  a  piece  of  massive  wall, 
forming  part  of  the  Monasterio  Mag- 
giore;  two  rather  dubious  heads,  called 
Quintus  and  Bufus,  in  the  arches  of 
the  Corsia  di  Porta  Nova ;  and,  lastly, 
the  Uomo  di  IHetra,  or  in  Milanese 
JSondn  de  Pree,  now  inserted  in  the 
wall  of  a  house  in  the  Corsia  de  Servi, 
between  the  first  and  second  stories. 
So  far  as  can  be  judged,  he  is  a  Koman 
of  the  lower  empire. 

The  paucity  of  Boman  remains  at 
Milan  must  be  attributed  to  the  cala- 

K 


178 


Boute  21. — MUan — City  Gates, 


Sect.  III. 


mities  which  the  city  has  sustained.  It 
was  sacked  hy  Attila,  A.D.  432,  in  the 
invasion  which  occasioned  the  founda- 
tion of  Venice.  But  the  great  destruc- 
tion was  effected  after  the  surrender  of 
Milan  to  Frederick  I.,  1162 ;  when  his 
vengeance,  co-operating  with,  or  rather 
instigated  hy,  the  jealousies  of  the  sur- 
rounding cities,  Pavia,  Cremona,  Lodi, 
Como,  Novara,  rased  it  to  the  ground. 
On  Fahn  Sunday,  in  that  fatal  year 
when  the  Emperor  departed  in  triumph 
for  Pavia,  the  site  of  the  great  city  was 
to  he  recognised  only  hy  the  Basilica 
of  Sant'  Amhrogio,  and  some  other 
churches,  which  were  left  standing  in 
the  midst  of  the  ruins ;  and  the  in- 
habitants being  dispersed  in  four  ad- 
joining villages,  the  name  of  Milan  was 
effaced  from  the  Lombard  community. 

But  this  event  was  followed  by  the 
great  Lombard  league,  the  confederacy 
against  the  imperial  authority  ;  and  in 
the  diet,  or  parUament,  held  at  Pontida, 
1167,  the  deputies  of  the  combined 
cities  determined  to  bring  back  the 
Milanese  to  their  ancient  seat,  which, 
on  the  27th  April,  1167,  was  effected 
by  the  combined  forces  of  Cremona, 
Brescia,  Bergamo,  Mantua,  and  Ve- 
rona, and  the  city  speedily  rose  again 
with  unwonted  energy  and  power. 
This  remarkable  event  was  commemo- 
rated in  the  coeval  bas-rehefs  of  the 
Porta  Momana,  a  venerable  gateway 
which  stood  till  1810-12. 

These  sculptures  have,  however, 
been  preserved  by  being  let  into  the 
walls  of  houses  (near  the  bridge) 
erected  on  the  site  of  the  gate,  and 
are  curious  as  illustrating  one  of  the 
most  memorable  passages  in  the  chro- 
nicles of  medieval  Italy.  The  Mi- 
lanese around,  on  foot  and  on  horse- 
back, are  seen  proceeding  to  the  re- 
er^ted  city,  with  an  inscription 
pointing  out  that  there  they  ai«  to 
make  their  stav.  "  Fata  vetant  ultra 
procedere,  stabimus  ergo."  The  cities 
of  "Cremona,"  "Brixia,"  and  "Ber- 
gamum"  are  represented  by  turreted 
gateways,  out  of  which  come  forth  their 
allies, — "Fra'  Giacobo,"  thus  written, 
bears  the  banner  ^(  Milan.    The  artist 


'*  Anselmus"  has  also  represented  him- 
self, adding  an  inscription,  in  which  he 
either  assumes  to  himself  the  appella- 
tion of  Deedalus,  or  ascribes  to  himself 
Dsedalian  skill;  a  whimsical  vanity, 
the  sculpture  being  of  the  rudest  kind. 
In  another  part  is  a  figure  in  a  consular 
or  magisterial  robe,  surmounting  a 
strange  monster  with  a  huge  grinning 
face  and  bats*  wings,  which,  according 
to  the  tradition  of  Milan,  represents  the 
Emperor  Frederick  Barbarossa. 

This  Porta  Romana  stood  in  the  line 
of  walls  erected  by  the  Milanese  when 
they  rebuilt  the  city. 

About  eighty  years  after  the  rebuild- 
ing of  the  citT  commenced  the  rule  of 
the  family  of  della  Torre,  by  the  elec- 
tion of  Pagano,  lord  of  Vail  Assina,  as 
protector;  and  then  followed  that  of 
the  Viscontis  and  Sforzas.  During 
the  later  part  of  this  period  Milan 
attained  a  state  of  great  prosperity, 
and  became  celebrated  for  its  manufac- 
tures of  armour,  dress,  and  ornaments. 

"  Well  was  he  arm'd,  from  head  to  heel, 
In  mail  and  plate  of  Milan  steel." 

Milan  then  set  the  fashion  to  the 
rest  of  Europe ;  hence  the  word  mUli- 
ner.  After  the  extinction  of  the  family 
of  Sforza,  Milan  fell,  in  1535,  under 
the  power  of  the  Emperor  Charles  V., 
who,  in  1549,  fixed  the  succession  to 
the  duchy  of  Milan  in  his  son  Philip 
II.  It  remained  under  the  government 
of  the  Spaniards  until  the  death  of  the 
last  King  of  Spain  of  the  Austrian  line, 
when  it  became  an  object  of  contention 
between  France  and  Austria,  and  was 
finally  given  to  the  latter  by  the  treaty 
of  Utrecht,  1713.  In  the  hands  of 
Austria  it  remained,  until  May,  1859, 
with  a  few  interruptions,  the  principal 
one  of  which  was  the  occupation  of 
Milan  by  the  French,  and  the  esta- 
bUshment  of  the  kingdom  of  Italy,  of 
which  Milan  was  made  the  capital. 

The  extent  of  Milan,  when  it  was 
rebuilt  after  its  destruction  by  Fre- 
derick Barbarossa,'  is  marked  by  the 
canal,  which,  entering  on  the  N. 
side,  runs  nearly  round  the  central 
part  of  the  modern  city.  Some  of  the 
gates  of  this  fli'st  line  t^f  fortifications 


LOMBAKDY. 


Rovte  21. — MUan — City  Gales. 


179 


are  preserved — the  Porta  Nuova  and 
Porta  Ticineee — and  have  been  re- 
cently restored.  The  wall  or  rampart, 
called  the  hastioney  which  now  en- 
circles Milan,  except  on  that  side 
which  was  protected  by  the  Castle, 
was  built  by  the  Spaniards  in  1555. 
The  greater  portion  of  the  ground  be- 
tween this  wall  and  the  canal  is  occu- 
pied by  gardens.  All  round,  just  out- 
side this  wall,  runs  the  road  called  the 
Strada  di  CircoTwallazione,  The  circuit 
of  the  modem  city  is  about  7i  m. 

Certain  wider  streets  which  radiate 
from  the  centre  of  the  town  are  called 
"  corsi;"  the  contiauations  of  these 
beyond  the  bridges  which  cross  the 
canal  to  the  present  Une  of  wall 
are  called  borghi.  •  The  streets,  in 
many  places  which  run  parallel  to 
and  immediately  within  the  canal, 
retain  the  name  of  terrazi,  or  ter- 
races. The  Piazze  or  squares  before 
the  churches  are  in  Milanese  called 
"pasquee"  (pascua),  and  some  open 
spaces,  where  several  streets  meet,  are 
called  "carobbio"  (quadrivium). 

The  average  height  of  Milan  above 
the  sea  is  450  feet. 

Milan  has  now  11  gates.  On  the 
N.  side  is  the  Porta  Comasina, 
or  Gfaribaldina,  erected  in  1826-1828 
by  the  merchants,  from  a  design  of 
Morc^lia. 

Next  to  this,  towards  the  E.,  is  the 
Porta  Nuova,  built  in  1810,  from  a 
design  of  Zanoia.  The  view  of  the 
Alps  from  the  rampart  near  this  gate 
is  very  fine.  The  ancient  Porta  Nuova 
of  the  mediffival  city,  near  the  entrance 
tothe  Public  Ghirdens, has  been  restored; 
it  consists  of  2  round-headed  arches ; 
some  Roman  bas-reUefs  and  ioscrip- 
tions  are  let  into  its  walls. 

Beyond  the  Porta  Nuova  a  new  gate 
was  opened  1865,  the  Porta  del  Prin- 
cipe UmhertOy  cutting  through  the  city 
rampart  in  order  to  form  a  more  direct 
communication  from  the  Ely.  Stat. ;  it 
opens  on  the  Giardino  PubUco :  the 
public  drive  or  boulevard  is  carried 
over  it  on  an  iron  viaduct.  It  is  by 
this  gate  that  ail  travellers  by  rlyt  enter 
KilaQt 


At  the  N.E.  angle  of  the  rampart  is 
the  Porta  Orientale,  now  di  Venezia, 
begun  in  1828,  from  a  design  of  Fa»- 
tiniy  the  architect  of  the  Campo  Santo 
at  Brescia. 

Near  the  centre  of  the  E.  side  is  the 
Porta  Tosa  or  Vittoria. 

At  the  S.E.  angle  of  the  rampart  is 
the  Porta  Romana,  built  by  the  Mi- 
lanese, from  a  design  of  Basaiy  in  1598, 
to  welcome  the  arrival  of  Margaret 
of  Austria,  the  wife  of  Philip  III.  of 
Spain.  Just  within  the  gate  is  the  an- 
cient emporium  (sciostra  romana)  for 
merchandize  coming  from  Cremona  and 
Piacenza. 

In  the  S.  side  of  the  rampart,  next 
to  the  Porta  Eomana,  is  the  Porta 
Viffentina,  so  called  from  the  village 
of  Vigentino,  which  lieb  on  this  road, 
at  a  short  distance. 

The  gate  situated  nearly  in  the  centre 
of  the  S.  side  of  the  ramparts  is  the 
Porta  Ludovicay  so  called  in  honour  of 
Ludivico  il  More. 

Near  the  W.  end  of  the  S.  face  of 
the  rampart,  and  to  where  it  forms  an 
angle  with  the  S.W.  face,  is  the  Porta 
TicinesCy  the  gate,  leading  to  Pavia,  and 
by  which  Bonaparte  entered  after  the 
battle  of  Marengo,  whence  for  a  short 
time  it  was  called  the  Porta  Marengo. 
Its  Ionic  portico  was  built  in  1815, 
from  a  design  of  the  Marquis  Ca- 
gnola.  The  mediseval  Porta  Ticinese, 
on  the  borders  of  the  Canal,  has  been 
recently  rebuilt  on  the  original  plan. 

The  Porta  Vercellina,  now  di  Ma- 
genta,  at  the  W.  extremity  of  the  city, 
was  built  in  great  haste,  with  materials 
from  the  Castello,  after  a  design  of 
Canonica's,  to  receive  Napoleon  when 
he  came  to  assume  the  iron  crown. 

Porta  Tanaglia,  the  N.W.  gate  lead- 
ing to  the  Simplon  road,  received  its 
name  from  a  fortified  work,  so  called, 
which  once  stood  near  it. 

Between  the  Porta  Tanaglia  and  the 
Porta  di  Magenta  there  is  no  rampart^ 
the  city  having  been  protected  on  this 
side  by  the  Castello.  Here  stood  the 
ancient  ducal  castle,  built  by  Galeazzo 
Visconti  II.  in  1358,  to  keep  th6 
Milanese   in    subjection.      tJpon    hid 

K  2 


180 


EoUte  21 . — Milan — Arco  deUa  Face, 


Sect.  III. 


death  they  insifited  on  its  demolition ; 
it  was,  however,  rebuilt  with  increased 
strength  by  Gian  Galeazzo.  Thus  it 
remained  till  the  death  of  the  Duke 
Filippo  Maria,  when  the  Milanese  rose 
(Aug.  30,  1447),  and,  haying  pro- 
claimed the  *^Aurea  respublica  Am- 
hroMana^^  destroyed  the  castle.  It  was 
soon  rebuilt  by  Francesco  Sforza,  for 
the  prnament  (he  said)  ol  the  city  and 
its  safety  against  enemies ;  and  he  pro- 
mised that  its  governors  should  be 
always  Milanese.  This  is  the  building 
now  standing.  In  the  interior  is  a 
keep,  where  the  dukes  often  resided. 
Bemains  of  paintings  have  been  dis- 
covei*ed  under  the  whitewash  in  the 
stables.  Philip  II.  added  very  ex- 
tensive modem  fortifications,  and  cut 
down  all  the  bell-towers  which  over- 
looked them.  The  advanced  works 
reached  to  the  edge  of  what  is  now 
open  space.  The  castle  was  taken  by 
the  French  in  1796 ;  and  again  in  1800, 
when  Napoleon  ordered  the  fortifica- 
tions to  be  rased.  It  has  since  been 
converted  into  a  barrack,  the  ap- 
proaches to  which  were  strengthened 
after  the  outbreak  of  1848,  when  a 
large  Austrian  force  was  obliged  to 
evacuate  it.  Of  the  round  towers  at 
the  angles,  those  towards  the  N.  have 
disappeared  or  have  been  replaced  by 
modern  brick  ones,  while  the  two  to- 
wards the  city,  formed  of  massive 
granite  blocks,  remain,  although  lowered 
to  a  certain  height,  in  doing  which  the 
fine  marble  sliields  of  the  Sforzas  have 
been  mutilated ;  but  as  the  stones  have 
been  found,  they  are  about  to  be  re- 
stored to  their  former  height,  and  the 
colossal  vipers,  the  armorial  bearings 
of  the  Viscontis,  re-engraved,  having 
been  defaced  by  the  revolutionary  mob 
during  the  Cisapline  republic :  and 
a  line  of  loopholed  defences  has  been 
canied  nearly  all  round  the  castle,  and 
the  square  in  which  it  is  situated  con- 
siderably opened.  During  the  vice- 
royalty  of  Eugene  Beauharnois  a  Doric 
gateway  of  granite,  with  a  portico  or  Une 
of  arches,  now  closed,  on  each  side,  and 
in  the  same  style,  was  erected  on  the 
N.W.  side  J    between   each  arch   is  a 


medallion  containing  the  bas-relief 
portrait  of  some  illustrious  Italian  mili- 
tary commander.  The  recently  erected 
Gothic  brick  building  against  the  !E. 
widl  of  the  Castello,  with  its  towers  and 
pointed  windows,  is  a  riding- school, 
and  stands  on  the  site  of  one  of  the 
semicircular  batteries  erected  by  the 
Austrians  to  overawe  the  city. 

The  space  gained  by  the  demolition 
of  the  fortifications  was  meant  to  be 
covered  by  splendid  buildings  and  mo- 
numents, for  which  Antolini  prepared 
a  design  in  1804.  Two  only  of  the 
edifices  planned  have  been  erected — 
the  Arena  and  the  Arco  della  Pace. 
The  space  on  which  it  was  intended  to 
erect  a  forum  has  been  converted  into 
a  IHazza  d^Armi,  for  the  purpose  of 
exercising  the  military. 

Arco  delta  Pctce.  A  triumphal  arch 
having  been  erected  with  wood  and  can- 
vas, in  1806,  at  the  Porta Orientale,  from 
a  design  of  the  Marquis  Cagnola,  upon 
the  marriage  of  the  Viceroy  Beauharnois 
with  the  Princess  Amalia  of  Bavaria,  it 
was  so  much  admired,  that  the  muni- 
cipal council  resolved  that  it  should  be 
executed  in  white  marble  from  Crevola, 
on  the  Simplon  road,  the  expense  to 
be  defrayed  out  of  200,000  francs  as- 
signed by  Napoleon  for  adorning  the 
city.  It  was  begun  in  1807,  but,  on 
the  fall  of  the  kingdom  of  Italy   in 

1814,  had  not  risen  above  the  impost 
of  the  smaller  arches.  The  works  were 
resumed  in  1816  and  completed  in 
1838,  in  which  year  the  arch  was  in- 
augurated at  the  time  of  the  corona- 
tion of  the  Emperor  Ferdinand  I.  It 
was  originally  intended  to  have  been 
called  the  Ajch  of  the  Simplon,  and 
to  have  been  embeUished  with  a  statue 
of  Victory,  in  commemoration  of  the 
battle  of  Jena,  and  with  bas-reUefs  re- 
presenting the  events  of  Napoleon's 
campaigns.  When  it  fell  into  the  hands 
of  the  Austrians  its  name  was  changed 
to  that  of  Arch  of  Peace,  and  the  sculp- 
tures underwent  a  transformation  to 
make  them  represent  the  events  which 
preceded   the  general    pacification   of 

1815.  On  the  top  of  the  arch  is 
a  bronze  figure    of  Peace,   in   a    car 


LOMBARDY. 


Boute  21. — Milan — Arena, 


181 


drawn   by  six  horses.      Four  figures 
of  Fame,  one  at  each  angle,  announce 
her  arrival.     These  latter  are  by  G-io- 
vanni  Putti,  a  Bolognese.    Tlie  central 
group  is  by  Sangiorgio.    The  subjects 
of  the  sculpture  and  the  names  of  the 
artists  are  as  follows: — Side  towards 
the   city.    The  colossal  figure  to  the 
1.  of    the   inscription    represents    the 
river  Po,  that  on  the  rt.  the  Ticino ; 
both  are  by  Cacciatori,    The  subject 
of  the  bas-relief  on  the  1.  side  immedi- 
ately  below    the    entablature   is    the 
battle   of  Culm,  by    G.  Monti.    The 
large  bas-reUef  below  this  is  intended 
to  represent  the   entry  of  the    Em- 
peror  Francis    I.   into  Milan;     it  is 
by  Cacciatori.     Below  this  is  the  ca- 
pitulation of  Dresden,  by   C.  PacetH. 
On  the   rt.  below   the  entablature  is 
the  passage  of  the  Bhine.    The  large 
bas-relief   below    this    represents    the 
foundation  of  the  Lombardo- Venetian 
kingdom,  and  the  lowest  one  the  occu- 
pation of  Lyons;   these  three  are  by 
Marchesi.    Each  of  the  pedestals  of 
the  columns  has  an  allegorical  figure 
in  half-reUef ; — ^they  are  Hercules,  by 
0.  Monti;  Mars  and  Minerva,  by  E,  Pa- 
cetti;  Apollo,  modelled  by  Pis^si.  Under 
the  great  central  arch,   a  large  bas- 
relief  on  the  rt.-hand  side  represents 
the  conference  of  the  three  aUied  sove- 
reigns of  Bussia,  Prussia,  and  Austria ; 
it  is  by  O,  Monti.    A  corresponding 
one    opposite    was    begim    by    Ac- 
quitti,  and  completed  by   Somaini. — 
Side  towards  the  country.     The  colos- 
sal reclining  figure  to  the  1.,  above  the 
entablature,  represents  the  river  Tag- 
Uamento ;  the  one  on  the  rt.  the  Adige : 
they  are  both  by  Marchesi.    The  bas- 
reUef  immediately  under  the  entabla- 
ture, on  the  1.  hand  of  the  spectator, 
represents    the    re-institution   of   the 
order  of  the  Iron  Grown.    The  subject 
of  the  large  bas-reUef  is  the  Congress 
of  Vienna ;  both  these  are  by   G.  B. 
Perabb.    Below  is  the  occupation  of 
Paris,  by  A.  Acquesti.    The  upper  bas- 
relief  on    the  rt.  was   begun  by    G. 
[      Musca,  and  finished  by   his    son ;   it 
represents    the   entry    of    the    allied 
sovereigns  into  Paris.    The  large  bas- 


relief  below  this  represents  the  Peace 
of  Paris;  and  the  lowest  one  the 
entry  of  the  Austrians  into  Milan  in 
1814:  these  two  are  bv  G.  Monti. 
The  four  pedestals  of  the  columns 
on  this  side  represent  Vigilance, 
by  Pizzi;  History,  Poetry,  and  Lom- 
bardy,  by  Acquesti.  On  the  east- 
em  flank  of  the  building  is  the  bat- 
tle of  Leipsig,  by  Marchesi;  on  the 
western  that  of  Arcis-sur-Aube,  by  iS^o- 
maini.  The  key-stones  of  the  arches 
are  ornamented  with  allegorical  busts. 
The  grand  frieze  aU  roimd  was  modelled 
by  Monti  and  Marchesi.  A  recent  in- 
scription on  it  records  the  entry  into 
Milan  of  Napoleon  III.  and  Victor 
Emanuel  after  the  battle  of  Magenta 
in  1859. 

The  total  cost,  including  the  lodges 
on  each  side  and  the  iron  railing, 
was  142,839/. ;  the  bronze  car  and 
figures  on  the  top  40,000/.  alone.  An 
easy  staircase  in  the  interior  leads  to  the 
summit.  The  bas-reUefs  have  been 
much  and  justly  criticised  for  a  pe- 
dantic adherence  in  the  costumes  to 
classical  models. 

The  Arena  is  an  amphitheatre  de- 
signed by  Canonica.  It  is  an  ellipse 
whose  greater  diameter  is  780  ft.,  and 
lesser  390,  and  is  capable  of  containing 
30,000  spectators.  It  is  surrounded 
by  ten  rows  of  seats,  arranged  in  the 
manner  of  an  ancient  amphitheatre, 
and  which  were  intended  to  be  of  stone, 
but  for  economy  were  made  of  turf. 
At  one  end  of  the  greater  diameter  are 
the  Carceres,  flanked  by  towers,  at  the 
other  a  triumphal  Doric  gateway  of 
granite,  of  which  the  design  is  good. 
At  one  side  of  the  lesser  diameter  is  a 
portico  of  eight  Corinthian  columns  of 
pbUshed  granite.  The  arena  can  be 
flooded  for  aquatic  exhibitions.  It  was 
commenced  in  1805,  and  opened  the 
following  year.  The  Portico,  G^ate- 
way,  and  Carceres  have  been  added 
since.  Tlie  first  races  took  place  the 
17th  June,  1807  ;  and  in  the  following 
December  there  was  a  regatta  in  the 
presence  of  Napoleon.  BacQS,  balloon 
ascents,  rope-dancing,  and  fireworks, 
take  place  here  frequently. 


182 


Hoiste  21,— Milan — Dnomo — Exterior. 


Sect.  Hi. 


Chfrches. 

The  Duomo.  The  present  building 
is  the  third,  perhaps  the  fourth,  re- 
edification  of  the  original  structure, 
which  St.  Ambrose,  in  his  letter  to  his 
sister  Marcellina,  calls  the  great  new 
Basilica.  The  primitive  cathedral  was 
destroyed  by  Attila.  When  rebuilt  it  I 
was  burnt  by  accident,  in  1075,  and 
again  destroyed  by  Frederick  I.  in 
1162;  but  this  demolition  was,  it  is 
said,  only  partial,  being  caused  by  the 
fall  upon  the  church  of  a  lofty  beU- 
tower,  wliich  was  destroyed  in  order 
to  prevent  its  being  used  as  a  fortress. 
Lastly  arose  the  present  structure. 

The  first  stone  of  the  present  Du- 
omo  was  laid  by  Ghian'  Gttleazzo 
Visconti,  in  1387.  Some  historians 
say  that  the  undertaking  was  in  ful- 
filment of  a  vow;  others  ascribe  it 
to  a  wbh  to  encourage  the  arts.  It 
was  beyond  the  Alps  that  the  Duke 
sought  an  architect.  He  had  re- 
course to  the  freemasons  of  Germany  ; 
and  it  is  in  vain  that  Italian  pa- 
triotism has  sought  to  impugn  the 
claims  of  Heinrich  Ahrler  of  Qmimden, 
or  " En/rico  di  Gamodia^^  the  Italian 
version  of  his  name.  To  him,  between 
theycars  1388-99,  were  associated  other 
brethren  from  Germany,  Paris,  and 
Normandy,  from  Friburg,  Ulm,  and 
Bruges.  Italians  were  afterwards  called 
in ;  amongst  others,  the  celebrated 
Brunelleschi  of  Florence.  But  Ger- 
many still  continued  to  be  considered 
as  the  school  of  the  architects  of 
the  cathedral ;  and  as  late  as  I486 
Gian'  Galeazzo  Sforza  addressed  let- 
ters to  the  magistrates  of  Strasburg, 
requesting  them  to  send  him  the  master 
mason  of  their  Domkirche^  Hammerer, 
for  the  purpose  of  advising  upon  some 
difficulties  which  had  been  appre- 
hended in  the  construction  of  the 
central  tower. 

The  building  has  been  often  inter- 
rupted, and  has,  when  resmned,  been 
often  caiyied  on  slowly,  and  it  is 
yet  tmfinished  in  some  of  its  de- 
tails.   The  octagon  cupola  was  vaulted 


by  the  Omodei  (&ther  and  son), 
1490,  1522;  the  three  western  divi- 
sions or  arches  of  the  nave  were  left 
unfinished  after  the  extinction  of  the 
Sforza  dynasty,  and  not  completed  till 
1685.  The  central  tower  and  the  spire, 
of  great  beauty,  which  crowns  it,  were 
completed  in  1772,  firom  the  desi^pos  of 
Oroce  ;  and  the  gable  and  upper  range 
of  windows  of  the  front,  as  well  as  very 
many  of  the  buttresses  and  pinnacles, 
by  Amati^  Zanoja^  and  others,  between 
1806,  when  the  works  were  resumed 
by  order  of  Napoleon,  and  the  pre- 
sent time.  In  this  long  succession, 
of  years  many  of  the  first  artists  of 
this  favoured  country,  amongst  whom 
may  be  named  Bramante^  Leonardo  da 
Vincif  and  Oiulio  Romano,  gave  their 
advice  and  assistance.  The  dates  only 
of  some  of  the  principal  constructions 
are  here  noticed;  but,  since  the  first 
stone  was  laid,  the  scafiblds  have  al- 
ways been  standing  on  some  part  of  the 
edifice. 

It  seems  that  the  original  designs 
for  the  facade  had  been  long  lost,  and 
the  portion  of  the  nave,  as  erected, 
wanted  three  of  its  arches.  A  facade 
of  black  and  white  marble,  built  con- 
siderably within  the  line  of  the  present 
structure,  curtailed  the  nave  by  one- 
third  of  its  just  length ;  and,  as  far  as 
this  had  been  raised,  it  was  unfinished, 
and  inelegant.  Pellegrini  was  em- 
ployed in  1660  by  St.  Carlo  Borromeo 
to  complete  the  front,  and  he  designed 
an  Italian  fa9ade  upon  a  magnificent 
scale.  San  Carlo  died ;  Pellegrini  was 
summoned  to  Spain  by  Philip  II. 
to  paint  the  Escurial,  and  the  work 
was  carried  on  very  leisurely  by  other 
hands,  amongst  them  by  Castelli  and 
Francesco  Ricchino,  who,  altering  the 
designs  of  Pellegrini,  gave  to  the  Ro- 
man doors  and  windows  that  exube- 
ance  of  ornament  which  they  now 
exhibit ;  but  the  plans  of  Pellegrini — 
according  to  one  of  which  the  front 
was  to  havQ>been  composed  of  a  gigan- 
tic modem  Koman  portico — had  given 
rise  to  numerous  discussions,  which 
were  continued,  revived,  and  resumed 
during  the  l7th  and  18th  centuries. 


LOMBARDY. 


Eottte  2 1 . — MUan — Dwmo  —  Interior . 


183 


Some  of  the  architects  of  Lombardy 
stronglj  protested  against  the  admix- 
tore  of  Koman  architecture  begxm  by 
Pellegrini,  and  adyocated  the  recon- 
struction of  the  fa9ade  in  the  Pointed 
style. 

Thus,  in  1635,  two  Gothic  designs 
were  proposed  by  Carlo  Buzzi,  and  a 
third  by  Francesco  Castelli,  all  three  of 
considerable  merit.  It  will  be  sufScient 
to  observe  that,  about  the  year  1790, 
it  was  determined  by  the  Syndics  to 
O-othicise  the  fa9ade,  preserving,  how- 
ever, the  doors  and  windows  of  Pelle- 
grini and  Bicchini,  on  account  of  their 
elaborate  elegance;  and,  in  order  to 
apologise  for  the  discrepancy  of  the 
styles,  they  caused  an  inscription  stating 
tMs  reason  to  be  engraved  on  the  comer 
buttress  of  the  &ont. 

To  these  works  Napoleon  gave  great 
impulse,  and  their  continuation  was 
intrusted  to  a  commission,  under  whom 
thefa9ade  was  brought  to  its  present 
form,  chiefly  by  the  iasertion  of  three 
G^othic  windows ;  and  the  greater 
number  of  the  pinnacles  and  flying 
buttresses  of  the  rest  of  the  building 
were  completed.  The  cost  of  these 
undertakings  during  the  French  go- 
vernment amounted  to  about  3^  mil- 
lions of  francs.  1^  miUions  of  this 
sum  were  derived  from  the  sale  of  the 
lands  belonging  to  the  Duomo,  the  re- 
mainder from  the  property  of  the  sup- 
pressed monastic  institutions.  After 
the  revolution  of  1848  the  supplies 
were  for  a  time  cut  off;  still  a  good 
deal  had  been  done  during  the  Austrian 
occupation.  ^ 

A  magnificent  Gothic  campanile  was 
projected  by  the  Marqtus  Cagnola. 
Others  proposed  flanking  the  front 
with  belfry  towers.  The  designs  for 
the  latter  were  sent  to  JTapoleon  at 
Moscow,  and  lost  in  that  calamitous 
campaign.  At  present  nothing  further 
is  ia  progress  as  to  this  part  of  the 
edifice ;  but,  when  Amati  inserted  the 
Gothic  windows,  he  supported  them 
by  what  are  called  bearing-arches  of 
granite;  so  that,  if  it  should  here- 
after be  thought  expedient  to  remove 
the  Bomanised   doors   and   windows, 


the  operation  can  be  performed  with- 
out injury  to  the  superstructure. 

When  Gian'  Guleazzo  endowed  the 
Duomo,  he  included  m  his  dona- 
tions the  marble-quarries  of  la  Gan- 
dogUa,  in  the  valley  of  the  Toccia,  on 
the  Simplon  road,  and  of  that  ma- 
terial the  btulding  is  entirely  con- 
structed. Time  gives  to  this  marble 
a  fine  warm  yellow  tint. 

In  the  tracery  there  is  an  unusual 
approximation  to  what  has  been  called 
the  Jlamboi/ant  style.  Tliis  was  proba- 
bly owing  to  the  influence  of  the 
French  Gothic,  as  it  is  most  apparent 
in  the  great  E.  window,  which  was 
built  by  Campania  from  the  designs  of 
Nicholas  Bonaventure  of  Paris  (1391). 

The  E.  end,  or  tribune,  is  probably 
the  most  ancient  or  original  portion  of 
the  structure.  It  is  calculated  that 
the  niches  and  pinnacles  of  the  exte- 
rior will  require  a  population  of  4500 
statues.  Of  these  more  than  3400 
are  executed,  besides  the  ba^-reliefs. 
200  sculptors  and  carvers  are  now 
engaged,  and  upwards  of  80  statues, 
are  produced  by  them  annually.  The 
excellent  sculptures  of  the  central 
door,  by  Bono^  Ctzstelli,  and  Vismara 
(about  1635),  may  be  especially  pointed 
out.  The  tympanum  contains  a  bas- 
relief  representing  the  creation  of 
Eve.  The  arabesques  in  the  pilas- 
ters are  allusive  to  the  works  of  the 
other  days  of  the  creation. 

In  the  compartments  for  the  bas- 
reliefs  there  is  a  great  variety  of  de- 
tail. Many  of  the  artists  were  from 
Como.  A  careful  observer  wiU  dis- 
cover in  them  not  a  few  of  the  sym- 
bolical representations  of  an  earlier 
age  in  modem  forms.  Amongst  the 
minor  capricci  is  a  female  head  co- 
vered by  a  veil,  all  the  features  being 
seen,  as  it  were,  through  the  trans- 
parent covering.  The  Caryatides,  by 
Rusca  and  Ca/rahelli^  are  in  finely 
varied  attitudes. 

The  traveller,  in  order  ftdb/  to  un- 
derstand the  details  of  the  building, 
shoidd  ascend  the  summit.  A  stair- 
case, the  entrance  to  which  is  at  the 
W.  comer  of  the  S.  transept,  where  a 


184 


Eovte  21. — Milan — Duomo — Interior, 


Sect.  in. 


charge  of  25  centimes  is  made,  leads 
by  158  steps  to  the  roof.  The  best 
time  to  enjoy  the  magnificent  pano- 
ramic yiew  is  the  eyening,  the  plains 
being  generally  covered  with  mist  at 
an  earher  hour. 

Steps  upon  the  flying  buttresses  af- 
ford an  ascent  to  the  different  levels. 
Two  staircases,  winding  in  turrets  of 
open  tracery,  as  at  Strasburg,  bring 
you  to  the  platform  of  the  octagon, 
and  a  similar  staircase  in  the  spire 
conducts  to  the  belvedere  or  gallery,  at 
the  foot  of  the  pyramid,  or  fleche, 
which  crowns  it.  These  turrets  were 
executed  by  Antonio  Omodei  between 
1490  and  1494.  The  sculpture,  as  well 
as  the  architecture,  is  from  his  design. 
The  open  tracery  was  executed  by 
Amid  of  Cremona.  The  whole  is  of 
exquisite  finish.  There  were  to  have 
been  two  others  of  similar  workman- 
ship at  the  opposite  angles  of  the 
octagon.  The  larger  niunber  of  the 
pinnacles  of  the  nave  and  aisles  have 
been  completed  since  1805.  The 
smaller  ornaments  —  baskets  of  fruit, 
cherubs*  heads,  sunflowers,  lilies — are 
admirable,  and  much  superior  to  any- 
thing which  results  from  the  rigorism 
now  inculcated  by  Gothic  architects. 

All  the  main  pinnacles,  3  on  each 
buttress,  are  completed  j  a  very  per- 
ceptible progress  has  been  made  in  the 
course  of  the  last  few  years, 

From  the  octagon  gallery  you  gain 
a  noble  view  of  the  plain  of  Lombardy, 
studded  with  cities  and  villages  and 
church  towers  j  the  whole  waUed  in,  on 
the  N.  and  E.,  by  the  snowy  Alps.  To 
the  eastward,  in  a  line  with  the  cupola 
of  Sta.  Maria  della  Passione,  is  the 
plain  watered  by  the  Lambro,  called 
the  Martesana,  and  beyond  are  the 
mountains  of  the  province  of  Brescia, 
which  towards  the  N.  are  connected  with 
those  of  the  Seriana  and  Brembana  val- 
leys, and  then  with  the  Resegone,  on  1. 
in  a  line  with  the  Caf6  of  the  Giardino 
Publico,  which  rises  above  Lecco,  and 
is  distinguished  by  the  serrated  or 
sawlike  form  of  its  summit.  The  lower 
ridges  to  the  W.  of  this  form  the  hilly 
country  of  the  Brianza,  behind  which, 


and  in  a  line  vdth  the  Porta  Nuova, 
rises  the  moimtain  of  S.  Primo,  which 
stands  between  the  two  southern 
arms  of  the  lake  of  Como.  To  the  1. 
of  S.  Primo  rise  the  mountains  which 
encircle  the  lakes  of  Como,  Varese,  and 
Lugano,  with  the  snowy  peaks  about 
the  S.  Gothard  beyond.  StiU  further 
to  the  westward,  the  Simplon  is  distin- 
guished, and  then  Monte  Kosa,  with  its 
summits  sparkling  with  eternal  snow, 
and  showing  at  sunset  those  hues  from 
which  it  derives  its  name.  Exactly  W., 
Mt.  Cenis  may  be  seen,  and  still  far- 
ther to  the  1.  the  sharp  snow-capped 
pyramid  of  Monte  Viso.  In  a  line 
with  the  Porta  Ticinose  the  Apen- 
nines begin,  among  which  the  most 
remarkable  point  is  the  Penice.  Ad- 
vancing towards  the  S.E.,  and  in 
the  line  of  the  Porta  Komana,  is  the 
insulated  group  of  hills  of  S.  Colum- 
bano,  and  then  the  vast  plain  of  the 
Po,  in  which  may  be  distinctly  seen  on 
a  clear  day  Lodi,  Cremona,  and  Crema. 
By  ascending  to  the  gallery  just  before 
sunrise,  the  visitor  may  sometimes  enjoy 
the  striking  spectacle  of  the  rays  of  the 
sun  catching  successively  the  snow-clad 
peaks  of  the  Alps  long  before  the  orb 
itself  has  appeared  on  the  horizon. 

The  ground-plan  of  the  Duomo  is 
a  Latin  cross,  terminated  by  an  apse 
or  tribune,  in  the  form  of  five  sides  of 
an  octagon.  The  body  is  divided  into 
a  nave  and  four  aisles,  by  four  ranges  of 
colossal  clustered  pillars,  with  nine 
inter-columniations.  The  transepts  and 
the  chancel  end  are  divided  into  three 
aisles.  There  is  no  triforium  gallery, 
nor  any  division  corresponding  with 
it.  The  vaultings  of  the  roof  spring 
at  once  from  the  pillars :  hence  arises 
an  appearance  of  great  loftiness.  Eifty- 
two  pillars,  each  formed  by  a  cluster 
of  eight  shafts,  support  the  pointed 
arches  on  which  the  roof  rests.  The 
total  height  of  each  pillar  of  the  nave 
and  chancel  is  80  ft.  The  diameter  of 
the  shaft  is  8  ft.  3^  in.  The  di- 
ameter of  the  four  great  pillars  which 
support  the  octagonal  cupola  is  one- 
fifth  greater.  The  beautiful  capitals  of 
the  nave  and  choir  were  designed  by 


LOMBARDY. 


Moute  21. — MSan — l)uo)no — Trderior. 


Mlippino  of  Modetia  in  1500 ;  the  lower 
part  is  formed  by  a  wreath  of  foliage, 
mixed  with  figures  of  cliildren  and 
animals;  above  is  a  circle  of  eight 
niches,  corresponding  to  the  intei*vals 
between  the  eight  shafts  of  the  clus- 
tered pillar,  and  each  containing  a 
i  statue  covered  by  a  canopy.  The 
shafts  which  divide  the  niches  ter- 
minate in  a  pinnacle,  surmounted  by  a 
small  statue.  The  design,  however,  is 
varied  in  different  pillars.  The  roof 
is  painted  to  represent  an  elaborate  fret- 
work. The  execution  is  modern,  but  the 
design,  as  well  as  this  mode  of  oma- 
I  mentation,  is  ancient.  The  5  doorways 
on  the  inside  were  designed  by  Fabio 
Mangoni  in  1548.  Flanking  the  great 
centre  doorway  are  two  granite  co- 
lumns, each  of  a  single  black :  they 
were  given  by  San  Carlo,  and  brought 
from  the  quarries  of  Baveno.  They 
have  been  called  the  largest  mono- 
Uths  in  Europe;  and,  perhaps,  were 
so  until  the  erection  of  the  church  of 
St.  Isaac  at  Petersburg.  The  height 
of  each  shaft  is  35  ft.,  the  diameter 
3  ft.  lOf  in. ;  the  cost  of  quarry- 
ing and  finishing  them  amounted  to 
194SI. 

[         The   principal    dimensions    of   the 
I      Duomo  are  as  follows : — 

English  Feet. 

Extreme  length 486 

Breadth  of  the  body      ....     252 
Between  the  ends  of  the  tran- 
septs   288 

Width  of  the  nave,  from  centre 
to  centre  of  the  columns, 
which  is  double  the  width 
of  the  aisles  measured  in  the 

same  way 63 

Height  of  the  crown  of  the 
vaulting  in  the  nave  from  the 

pavement 153 

Height  from  the  pavement  to 
the  top  of  the  statue  of  the 
Madonna,  which,  crowns  the 
spire .     355 

Beyond  the  entrance  the  pavement 
is  crossed  by  a  meridian  line,  laid 
down  by  the  astronomers  of  Brera 
in    1786.      The  sun's    rays,  passing 


through  a  small  aperture  in  the  roof, 
cross  it,  of  course,  at  noonday.  Origin- 
ally all  the  windows  were  filled  with 
painted  glass.  Pellegrini  designed 
those  in  the  nave :  much  glass  remains 
of  extraordinary  brilliancy,  but  a  great 
deal  is  lost.  The  restoration  of  the 
painted  windows  is  amongst  the  works 
now  in  progress,  3  only  in  the  K.  aisle 
remaining  unHnished  ,  the  windows 
of  the  apse  have  been  already  com- 
pleted by  Milanese  artists  :  the  lower 
ranges  contain  subjects  from  the  Apo- 
calypse. Parts  of  the  glass,  too,  in 
the  S.  transept,  and  the  W.  window, 
are  modem.  These  restorations  are 
poor  in  design.  Two  of  the  great 
pillars  supporting  the  octagonal  cu< 
pola,  on  each  side  of  the  choir,  are 
encircled  by  pulpits,  partly  of  bronze, 
begun  by  direction  of  San  Carlo,  and 
completed  by  his  nephew,  Cardinal 
Federigo  Borromeo.  These  are  covered 
with  bas-rehefs  by  Andrea  Fellizone^ 
and  rest  on  colossal  caryatides,  repre- 
senting the  symbols  of  the  Evan- 
geUsts,  and  the  four  Doctors  of  the 
Church,  SS.  Gregory,  Jerome,  Ambrose, 
and  Augustine,  modelled  by  JSrambilla, 
and  cast  by  Busca,  bending  and 
spreading  forwards  to  support  the 
superstructure.  Behind  the  altar  are 
seen  the  three  gigantic  windows  of  the 
tribune.  The  best  time  of  day  for  con- 
templating this  scene  is  when  the  morn- 
ing sun  is  streaming  through  the  eastern 
windows.  The  efiect  of  the  bril- 
liant background  is  much  heightened 
by  the  dark  bronzes  of  the  pulpits. 
Suspended  from  the  vaulting  of  the 
octagon  over  the  altar,  is  a  i*eliquiary, 
said  to  contain  one  of  the  nails  of  the 
cross,  which  annually,  on  the  feast  of 
the  Invention  of  the  Holy  Cross  (3rd 
May),  is  exposed  upon  the  altar,  and 
carried  in  solemn  procession  through 
the  city. 

"With  some  feeling  of  disappoint- 
ment, from  having  heard  so  much  of 
this  building,  it  was  impossible  not 
to  acknowledge  the  sublime  effect  of 
the  interior.  The  first  particulars 
which  strike  you  on  passing  to  the 
interior  are,  that  it  is  dark  and  gloomy, 

K  3 


186 


Boide  21 . — MHan — Dttomo — Interior. 


Sect.  III. 


and  that  the  leading  Hnes  are  very 
much  interrupted  by  the  shrines  intro- 
duced in  the  capitals  of  the  piers, 
which  injure  also  the  apparent  solidity 
of  the  bmlding. 

"  The  style  does  not  correspond  with 
any  of  our  English  modes  of  pointed 
architecture.  The  vaulting  is  simple, 
without  any  branching  ribs,  or  any 
ridge-piece ;  it  is  so  much  super- 
yaidted,  that  each  bay  appears  to  be 
the  portion  of  a  dome;  and  the  dis- 
position of  the  materials  in  concentric 
circles,  or  in  portions  of  such  circles, 
makes  me  beliere  that  this  is  nearly 
the  case.  •  *  •  The  lower  part  of  the 
capitals  has  something  of  the  running 
foliage  of  the  14«th  centy.  in  England  : 
but  the  slirine-work  which  forms  the 
upper  part  is  perfectly  unique ;  at  least, 
I  know  notliing  parallel,  either  in  the 
work  itself,  on  in  the  manner  it  is  here 
introduced.  The  bases  and  the  plans  of 
the  pillars  are  equally  anomalous,  and 
I  tliink  any  person  would  be  baffled 
in  attempting  to  determine  the  date 
from  the  architecture,  only  he  might 
safely  decide  that  it  could  not  be 
very  earty."  —  Woods*  Letters  of  an 
Architect, 

To  point  out  in  detail  the  more 
remarkable  objects  to  be  seen  in  the 
Daomo,  beginning  from  the  western 
end  and  on  the  rt.-hand  side  : — First 
is  the  monument  of  Marco  Carelli, 
a  benefactor  of  the  Duomo,  a  work 
of  A.D.  1394.  It  is  an  altar-tomb, 
with  small  figures  in  niches.  Next 
follows  the  altar  of  8t.  Agatha,  with  a 
picture  by  Federigo  Zttccfiero;  then 
that  of  St.  John  the  Eyangelist,  by 
Melchior  Chherardini.  In  the  next  is 
a  picture  by  MmnmengMrio.  These 
altars  were  erected  in  the  time  of 
the  Borromeos. 

According  to  the  strict  Ambrosian 
rule,  there  ought,  as  in  the  Grreek 
Church,  to  be  only  one  altar  in  the 
cathedral,  and  the  Duomo  was  planned 
accordingly.  Other  altars  have  been 
introduced,  but  there  are  fewer  than 
is  usual  in  Boman  Catholic  cathe- 
drals ;  and  the  chapels  are  much  less 
prominent  than  in  similar  buildings. 


In  the  S.  transept  is  the  monument 
of  GHovanni  Oiacomo  de*  Medici, 
Marquis  of  Marignano  (d.  1565),  the 
uncle  of  San  Carlo,  and  of  his  son 
Q-abriel,  executed  in  bronze  by  Leon 
Leonif  and  said  by  Vasari  to  have 
been  designed  by  Michael  Angelo. 
The  principal  statue  of  Medici  is  not 
unworthy  in  its  general  design  of  the 
great  master  who  is  supposed  to  have 
sketched  it.  In  the  splendid  window 
near  this  tomb,  proceeding  eastward, 
the  armorial  bearings  of  the  deceased 
are  introduced.  This  Medici,  often 
called  il  MedichinOy  was  not  of  the 
family  of  the  Ducal  House  of  Florence, 
though  the  armorial  bearings  are  the 
same. 

In  the  tribune  at  the  end  of  the  8. 
transept  is  the  chapfel  of  San  G-iovanni 
Bono.  The  pilast^s  of  the  arch  and 
its  archivolt  are  covered  with  exceed- 
ingly elaborate  bas-reliefs  by  Simon' 
etta,  San  PetrOy  Zarabatia,  BrunetU, 
Bussolay  and  others.  The  figures  of 
Justice  and  Temperance,  by  Vismara, 
are  good,  but  the  chief  merit  is  rather 
to  be  found  in  the  exuberance  of  com- 
position and  high  finish  of  the  groups 
and  tablets — some  of  which  are  taken 
from  the  life  of  San  Q-iov.  Bono.  The 
statue  of  the  Guardian  Angel  is  by 
JSuzzi,  that  of  St.  Michael  by  Cfiov, 
MUanti.  On  one  side  is  the  entrance 
to  the  underground  passage  leading  to 
the  archbishop's  palace,  and,  on  the 
other,  that  of  the  staircase  wluch  leads 
to  the  roof.  Next  is  the  altar  of  the 
Presentation  of  the  Virgin,  by  JSom- 
baja  (1510),  who  has  attempted  a 
difficult  representation  of  perspective 
in  sculpture.  The  celebrated  statue 
of  St.  Bartholomew,  formerly  on  the 
outside  of  the  cathedral,  and  vaunted 
above  its  deserts,  has  been  lately  re- 
moved into  the  S.  transept.  The  in- 
scription, ^*  Non  me  Praxitelesy  sed 
Marcus  fi/nxit  AgrateSy*  is  adopted  from 
an  epigram  in  the  Greek  Anthology. 

The  small  monument,  close  by,  of 
Giovanni  Andrea  Vimercatiy  a  canon 
of  the  cathedral,  has  two  heads  in  low- 
relief  by  Bambaja  (1537-48). 

The  large  alto-relievo  of  the  Mar- 


IiOMbaRdV.         JRoide  21. — Milan. — Duoim.— Interior. 


187 


tyrdom  of  Santa  ApoUonia  is  by 
Creole  \Procaccini.  The  statues  of 
St.  Satirus,  hj  Cacdatori,  and  St. 
Ambrose,  by  Gaetano  MonH,  were 
plaeed  here  in  1842.  Entering  the 
aisle  behind  the  choir,  the  elaborate 
Gothic  doorway,  composed  of  foliage 
intermixed  with  imagery,  on  the  rt. 
hand,  leads  to  the  southern  sacristy. 
Then  fc^ows  a  sitting  statue  of  Pope 
Martin  V.  by  Jacopino  di  Tradate^ 
erected  by  Eilippo  Maria  YiBCOnti,  to 
commemorate  the  consecration  of  the 
high  altar  by  that  pontiff. 

The  tomb  of  CcMrdinal  Caraceiolo,  go- 
Temor  of  Milan  (d.  1538),  with  the 
figures  by  Bambaja^  is  striking  in  its 
general  effect. 

On  the  wall  beneath  one  of  the  3 
great  E.  windows  is  a  tablet  of  marble, 
with  a  monogram  of  high  antiquity, 
called  the  ^^ChrismonSancUAmbrosiif* 
and  which  contains  the  A  and  A,  together 
with  other  symbols.  Some  suppose 
it  to  be  a  G-nostic  monument.  Near 
this,  engraved  on  two  black  marble 
tablets,  on  each  side  of  a  dedicatory 
inscription  to  S.  Carlo,  is  a  long  list  of 
relics  of  saints  preserved  in  the  cathe- 
dral. Some  inscriptions  to  members 
of  the  Sforza  fitmily  are  placed  here- 
abouts on  the  walls. 

North  side. — The  tomb  of  JDttone 
Visconti,  Archbishop  and  Signore  of 
Milan  (d.  1295),  is  earlier  than  the 
foundation  of  the  present  building.  It 
is  striking  firom  its  singularity  of 
form  and  colour,  being  of  bright  red 
Yerona  marble.  He  left  his  goods  and 
chattels  to  the  knights  of  St.  John, 
who  erected  this  monument.  The 
same  tomb,  by  a  singular  economy, 
serves  as  that  of  Archbishop  Giovanni 
Visconti  (d.  1354),  who  also  united  in 
his  person  the  temporal  and  spiritual 
supremacy  of  Milan. 

Immediiately  above  this  urn  is  the 
sitting  statue  of  Pope  Pius  IV.  (1559- 
1565),  the  brother  of  the  Marquis  of 
Marignano.  It  is  by  Angelo  d£  Mams, 
a  SiciUan  (1560).  The  semi-GK)thic 
bracket  which  supports  it,  by  Bram- 
billa,  is  full  of  elegant  fancy  in  the 
groups  which  compose  it.    An  inscrip- 


tion, recently  found  under  a  house  near 
the    Cathedral,  stating    that    it    was 
i  erected  in  1386,  has  been  placed  on  the 
wall    near    Ottone    Visconti's    tomb. 
Beyond  the  entrance  to  the  N.  sacristy 
I  is  a  monument  in  very  poor  style  to 
j  3  members  of  the  Arcimboldi  family, 
I  who  were  archbishops  of  Milan. 
I      The  circuit  wall .  of  the  choir,  to wai^s 
ithe  aisles,  is  covered  with  bas-reliefs, 
I  representing  the  history  of  the  Virgin. 
I  The  subjects  are  divided  into  compart- 
ments by  angels,  whose  attitudes  are 
finely  varied. 

Entering  the  N.  transept  we  come  to 
the  altar  of  Santa  Prassede,  with  an  alto- 
reUevo  by  Marc*  Antonio  PresUnari, 

The  painting  of  the  Annunciation 
is  a  copy  of  that  of  Oiotto  at  Ploi^ence. 
The  next  chapel,  of  the  Crucifix,  has 
also  a  large  indifferent  alto-relievo 
over  the  altar.  The  chapel  of  the 
Holy  Sacrament,  at  the  end  of  the  N. 
transept,  called  delV  albero,  from  the 
splendid  bronze  candelabrum  which 
stands  before  it,  the  gift  in  1562  of 
Giovanni  Battista  Trivulzio,  ai'chpriest 
of  the  cathedral,  contains  some  fine  has- 
rehefs,  and  a  statue  of  the  Madonna,  by 
JSuzzi,  In  front  of  this  altar  are  the 
slab  tombs  of  Cardinal  Federigo  Bor- 
romeo,  the  nephew  of  S.  Carlo,  of 
Card.  Caccia,  and  of  two  archbishops 
of  the  Visconti  family.  The  next 
chapel,  enclosed  by  an  iron  railing,  is 
dedicated  to  St.  Catherine.  In  the 
1.  aisle  the  altar  that  follows  has 
a  picture  of  St.  Ambrose  absolving 
Tlieodosius,  by  Jl  Barocdo ;  beyond 
which  is  a  Marriage  of  the  Virgin  by 
jP.  Zucchero,  Then  follows  that  of 
the  Crucifix,  that  over  the  altar  being 
the  one  which  was  carried  about  the 
city,  before  St.  Carlo,  during  the  plague 
at  Milan.  The  two  modem  statues  on 
each  side  are  St.  Martha,  by  Cacciatore, 
and  the  Magdalene,  by  Monti.  The 
next  space  contains  an  altar-tomb, 
erected  in  1480,  and  restored  in  1832 ; 
it  has  a  good  bas-reUef  by  Marchesi. 
The  Baptistery, — a  small  square  temple 
supported  by  four  columns  of  marble 
— is  by  Fellegrini.  It  contains  ajt 
ancient  Zadntw,  used  as  a  font,  from 


188 


Eoute  21,-^  Milan — Ducmo — Crypt,  Sect.  HI* 


a  bath  of  the  lower  Empire,  the 
Ambrosian  ritual  requiring  baptism  by 
immersion.  Behind  the  Baptistery,  in 
the  N.  wall,  are  eight  statues  in  relief 
of  saints,  with  a  mediseyal  bas-reUef 
of  the  Virgin  and  Child,  St.  Paul,  and 
St.  Catherine.  The  saints,  in  red 
marble,  are  of  an  early  date. 

The  choir  was  designed  by  FelU- 
grini.  The  richly  carved  stalls  of  wal- 
nut-wood, with  bas-reliefs,  represent  the 
history  of  St.  Augustine  and  St.  Am- 
brose. The  organ-cases  are  rich  with 
gilded  carving  and  paintings  of  Fi- 
ffiniy  CcMnillo  Procctccini^  and  Q-mseppe 
Meda.  The  ambones  or  pulpits  are 
placed  on  the  piers  at  the  entrance 
of  the  choir,  and  are  circular;  one  is 
supported  by  the  emblems  of  the  Evan- 
gelists ;  the  other  by  colossal  statues  of 
the  4  Doctors  of  the  Church :  the  gilt 
bas-reliefs  are  very  second-rate.  On  the 
great  rood-beam  are  statues  of  Mary 
and  St.  John. 

On  the  high  altar  is  a  magnificent 
tabernacle  of  gilt  bronze,  adorned  with 
figures  of  our  Saviour  and  the  Twelve 
Apostles,  the  work  of  the  Solaris  the 
gift  of  Pius  lY.  A  handsome  G<)thic 
candelabrum  hangs  from  the  roof 
of  the  choir.  Beneath  the  choir  is 
the  subterranean  church,  in  which  ser- 
vice is  celebrated  during  the  winter 
season,  as  being  warmer  than  the  vast 
one  above.  This  lower  church  is 
from  the  designs  of  Pellegrini.  From 
it  is  the  entrance  into  the  chapel  of 
St.  CarlOf  rebuilt  in  1817,  from  the  de- 
signs of  PestagalUy  in  the  form  of  a 
lengthened  octagon.  This  subterranean 
chapel  is  lighted  by  an  opening  in  the 
pavement  of  the  church  above,  but  not 
sufEciently  to  allow  of  the  objects  in  it 
being  seen  without  the  aid  of  tapers. 
The  walls  are  covered  with  8  oval 
bas-rehefs,  in  silver  gilt,  representing 
the  principal  events  of  the  hfe  of 
the  saint,  viz.  —  The  Birth  of  San 
Carlo ;  his  presiding  at  the  Provin- 
cial Coimcil  of  Milan  (1505),  in 
which  canons  were  enacted  virtually 
protesting  against  some  of  the  worst 
abuses  ol  the  Boraan  Church;  San 
Carlo's    distribution  to    the    poor  of 


the  proceeds  of  the  sale  of  the  princi- 
pality of  Oria.  He  had  a  life-interest 
in  this  domain,  which  he  sold  for 
40,000  crowns ;  and  he  oi^ered  his 
ahnoner  to  distribute  it  amongst  the 
poor  and  the  hospitals  of  his  diocese. 
The  almoner  made  out  a  list  of  the 
items,  how  the  donations  were  to  be 
bestowed,  which,  when  added  up, 
amounted  to  42,000  crowns.  But 
when  he  found  out  the  mistake,  he 
began  to  revise  the  figures.  "Nay," 
said  San  Carlo,  "let  it  remain  for 
their  benefit;"  and  the  whole  was 
distributed  in  one  day. — San  Carlo's 
administration  of  the  Sacrament  dur- 
ing the  great  plague. — ^The  attempt 
made  to  assassiaate  him.  San  Carlo 
had  laboured  to  introduce  salutary 
reforms  into  the  order  of  UmiliaH, 
whose  scandalous  mode  of  hving  had 
given  great  o^nce.  Some  members  of 
the  order  conspired  to  murder  him. 
A  priest  named  Farina  was  hired  to 
execute  the  deed.  He  gained  access  to 
his  private  chapel,  and,  as  San  Carlo 
was  kneeling  before  the  altar,  fired 
at  bim  point  blank  with  an  arquebuse. 
At  this  moment  they  were  singing 
the  verse,  "liet  not  your  heart  be 
troubled,  neither  be  ye  afraid."  The 
buUet  struck  San  Carlo  on  the  back, 
but  diil  not  penetrate  his  silken  and 
embroidered  cope,  and  dropped  harm- 
less on  the  ground;  and  the  failure 
of  the  attempt  was  considered  as  an 
interposition  of  Providence.  San  Carlo 
continued  in  prayer,  while  all  around 
him  were  in  consternation.  The  assas- 
sin escaped  for  a  time,  but  was  ulti- 
mately executed,  though  San  Caflo 
endeavoured  to  save  him. — ^The  great 
translation  of  reUcs  effected  by  him. 
— ^The  death  of  San  Carlo.  He  died 
4th  November,  1584,  aged  46  years, 
his  life  having  been  unquestionably 
shortened  by  his  austerities. — His  re- 
ception into  Paradise.  These  tablets 
are  surrounded  by  fanciful  ornaments. 
Thus  (e.  g.)  round  a  tablet  given  by 
the  money-changers  are  cornucopias 
pouring  out  money,  the  coins  being 
real  golden  fiorins,  pistoles,  ducats,  &c., 
fastened  together    by  wire,   or    some 


LoMBARUY.  Scute  21, — Milan — Duomo — Sacristy. 


189 


Bimilar  contrivance.  Jewels,  crosses, 
rings,  and  other  votive  gifts  are  hung 
around :  some  are  very  recent. 

The  body  of  the  saint  is  deposited  in 
a  gorgeous  shrine  of  silver,  the  gift  of 
Philip  rV.  of  Spain;  and  contains 
the  corpse  dressed  in  full  pontificals, 
which  is  seen  through  panes  of  rock 
crystal,  for  the  worlung  of  which,  the 
Milanese  artists  were  celebrated.  The 
skill  of  embalmers  has  not  been  able 
to  preserve  the  body  from  decay. 
The  brown  and  shriveUed  flesh  of  the 
mouldering  countenance  scarcely  co- 
vers the  bone ;  the  head  is  all  but  a 
skull,  and  the  iace^  alone  uncovered, 
offers  a  t-ouching  aspect  amidst  the 
splendid  robes  and  ornaments  in  which 
the  figure  is  shrouded.  Upon  the 
sarcophagus,  and  all  around,  worked 
upon  the  rich  tapestry,  is  repeated  in 
golden  letters  San  Carlo's  favourite 
motto,  **SumilUas"  which  long,  how- 
ever, before  his  time  had  been  borne 
by  the  Borromeo  family.  The  sub- 
terranean chapel  and  the  shrine  are 
open  at  an  early  hour,  and  on  great 
festivals,  but  may  be  seen  at  aU  times 
on  paying  a  few  lire  to  the  sacristano 
in  attendance. 

On  the  anniversary  of  S.  Carlo 
(Nov.  4)  large  pictures  are  suspended 
between  the  piUars  of  the  transepts  and 
nave,  representing  the  events  of  his  life 
^nd  the  miracles  which  he  is  supposed 
to  have  performed.  The  body  of  the 
saint  may  be  seen  on  the  eve  and 
festival  when  the  crypt  is  much  re- 
sorted to  by  devotees. 

The  principal  or  southern  Sacristy 
contains  some  objects  of  interest,  the 
remains  of  a  much  larger  collection. 
Amongst  those  most  deserving  of 
notice  are  the  following  : — The  JSvan- 
gelUteriwny  the  cover  richly  worked 
in  enamel,  and  containing  a  MS.  copy 
of  the  Gospels,  from  which  the  arch- 
bishop reads  portions  on  certain  great 
festivals.  It  was  given  to  the  Duomo 
by  Archbishop  Aribert,  1018,  but  is 
probably  of  much  older  date  than  his 
time,  the  workmanship  of  the  enamel 
appearing  to  be  of  the  Carlovingianera. 

A  small  vessel  of  wory,  ornamented 


with  whole-length  figures,  the  Virgin 
and  Child,  and  the  Evangelists,  is 
placed  beneath  Lombard  arches.  It 
was  given  to  the  church  by  Archbishop 
Godfrey,  by  whom  it  was  used  at  the 
coronation  of  the  Emp.  Otho  II.,  a.d. 
978. 

Two  diptifchg  of  the  Lower  Empire,  of 
good  workmanship,  representing  events 
in  the  history  of  our  Lord ;  Greek  in- 
scriptions, not  all  correct  in  their  ortho- 
graphy, and  one  almost  inexplicable. 

Full-length  statues  of  St.  Ambrose 
and  San  Carlo  on  silver.  The  first 
was  given  by  the  city  in  1698,  and 
was  the  work  of  Scarpoletti,  and 
twenty  other  goldsmiths.  There  are 
small  statues  of  gold  in  the  pastoral 
staff,  and  events  in  the  history  of  the 
saint  are  delineated  on  his  chasuble. 
The  statue  of  San  Cai*lo  was  given 
by  the  goldsmiths  in  1610. 

Seveiul  busts  of  the  same  material 
and  character. 

A  mitre^  said  to  have  been  worn 
by  San  Carlo  during  the  pestilence. 
It  is  embroidered  with  the  brightest 
feathers,  and  was  probably  brought 
from  some  of  the  Spanish  American 
convents. 

There  are  also  some  splendid  speci- 
mens of  modem  jewellery,  particularly 
a  Pa^y  by  CaradossOf  the  gift  of 
Pius  lY.  It  contains  many  figures ; 
the  principal  group  represents  a  De- 
position from  the  Cross ;  the  figures 
are  worked  with  the  utmost  deUcacy. 
Amhrogio  JPbpjpa,nicknamed  CoA'adomOy 
was  a  Milanese,  the  contemporary  of 
Cellini,  and  earned  the  deserved  praise 
of  the  jealous  Tuscan. '  He  was  also 
a  die-sinker,  in  which  art  he  excelled, 
and  an  architect.  Eoppa  was  not 
handsome :  and  a  Spanish  grandee 
having  in  contempt  called  him  "  Cara 
d'osBO,"  or  Bear's  face,  he  very  inno- 
cently adopted  the  name,  without  un- 
derstanding it,  perhaps  thinking  it  a 
compliment. 

The  ALmbrosian  rite  is  almost  the 
only  national  liturgy  in  the  West 
which  has  been  spared  by  the  Roman 
Church,  and  it  is  probably  much  older 
than  the  Roman  Liturgy.     The  BUo  or 


190 


Moute  21. — MUaii — Duomo — Sant*  Amhrogio,       Sect  III. 


CuUo  Amhrogiano  is  in  use  throughout 
the  whole  of  the  ancient  archbishopric 
of  Milan.  Several  attempts  have  been 
made  to  introduce  the  Boman  service 
in  its  place,  but  they  haye  been  foiled 
by  the  attachment  of  the  clergy  and 
people  to  their  ancient  rite ;  and  even 
in  the  present  age  "  noi  Ambrogiani " 
is  an  expression  employed  with  a  cer- 
tain warmth  of  national  feeling.  The 
service  is  longer  than  the  Boman. 
The  •Scriptures  are  not  read  firom  the 
Vulgate,  but  from  the  ancient  version 
called  the  Italicay  which  preceded  that 
made  by  St.  Jerome.  No  musical  in- 
strument is  permitted  except  the  organ  j 
the  melodies  of  modem  music  are  rarely 
introduced,  and  the  monotonous  chant 
maintains  its  supremacy.  There  are 
many  minor  differences  in  the  ceremo- 
nies which  are  anxiously  retained,  ex- 
tending even  to  the  shape  of  the  censers 
or  twnboli, 

A  species  of  tunnel  connects  the 
Duomo  with  the  Arckiepiscopal  Palace. 
Annexed  to  it  is  a  workshop  belonging 
to  the  fabric,  in  which  is  the  model,  or 
rather  the  wreck  of  the  model,  of  one 
of  the  plans  for  completing  the  front  of 
th^Buomo.  It  is  so  large  that  a  man 
can  stand  up  in  it;  but  it  is  sadly 
broken  and  neglected.  According  to 
this  plan  the  front  would  have 
had  a  noble  portal  of  Gothic  arches, 
not  unlike  Peterborough,  and  much 
more  appropriate  than  the  present  one. 

There  are  many  churches  besides 
the  cathedral  deserving  notice.  Several 
of  them  are  interesting  from  their 
antiquity;  from  their  connexion  with 
events  recorded  in  history ;  or  for  the 
works  of  art  which  they  contain.  Some 
of  them  have  lost  their  interest,  how- 
ever, by  being  modernized,  particularly 
the  interiors;  and  this  seems  to  have 
been  done  chiefly  about  the  time  of 
St.  Carlo,  and  during  the  Spanish  rule. 

Sanf  Amhrogio.  This  basilica  was 
founded  by  St.  Ambrose,  when  Bishop 
of  Milan,  and  dedicated  by  him,  June 
19th,  387,  to  the  Martyrs  88.  Gerva- 
sins  and  ProtasiuSy  whose  bones  he 
removed    to   this    church.     Posterity 


has  transferred  the  dedication  to  the 
foimder.  This  structure  exhibits  many 
of  those  arrangements  which  were 
adopted  in  the  early  ages  of  the  Church. 
In  front  is  the  atrium,  beyond  whose" 
precincts  the  catechumens  were  not  to 
pass.  As  it  now  stands,  it  was  built 
by  Archbishop  Anspertus  (about  868- 
881),  as  appears  from  his  epitaph  in 
the  choir.  It  is,  therefore,  the  most 
ancient  mediseval  structure  in  Milan. 
When  repaired  in  1631  by  the  archi- 
tect JRichinif  by  order  of  Cardinal  Fe- 
derigo  Borromeo,  an  operation  rendered 
indispensable  by  its  impending  ruin, 
all  its  features  were  preserved  without 
alteration. 

The  square  court  in  front  is  acknow- 
ledged to  date  from  the  9th  century, 
and  the  church  exhibits  very  much  of 
the  same  style  of  art.  This  atrium  is 
an  oblong  square  surrounded  by  ar- 
cades, having  B  arches  at  each  end,  and 
6  on  each  side,  supported  by  pilasters 
with  half-columns ;  the  sculpture  on 
the  capitals  of  which,  animals  and 
runic  knots,  are  good  specimens  of 
early  Christian  art.  There  is  nothing 
in  the  details  of  the  design,  or  in  the 
execution,  to  demand  admiration ;  and 
yet  as  a  whole  it  is  s trilling,  from  the 
simpUcity  and  harmony  of  the  general 
design. 

The  architecture  of  Sant'  Ambrogio 
may  be  called  Lombard  (i.  e.  with  cir- 
cular arches),  that  style  which  it  has 
been  of  late  years  the  fashion  to 
call  Bomanesque,  but  singularly  rude. 
The  five  arches  of  the  front  are  very 
characteristic ;  those  above  enclosing  a 
gallery  which  stands  over  the  peristyle. 
Fragments  of  frescoes  still  remain  on 
the  walls  of  the  atrium,  round  which  are 
arranged  slab  tombs,  urns,  altars,  vo- 
tive  and  sepulchral  inscriptions,  found 
in  1813,  when  the  pavement  of  the  Ba- 
silica was  taken  up  and  repaired.  Some 
of  the  inscriptions  are  remarkable  from 
the  cbrruption  of  the  Latin,  exhibiting, 
perhaps,  specimens  of  the  colloquial 
dialect.  Two  small  panels, —  one  at 
the  top  of  each  of  the  folding  doors, — 
are  seen  as  part  of  the  gates  which 
St.  Ambrose  closed  against  the  Emperor 


liOMBAEDY.  Boute  21, — Milan — Sant'  Ambrogw, 


191 


Theodosius  after  his  merciless  slaughter 
of  the  inhabitants  of  Thessalonica. 
These  relics  are  of  cypress-wood,  and, 
though  not  decayed,  bear  the  marks  of 
extreme  age.  The  doors,  scarcely  visible 
through  a  close  grating,  are  ornamented 
with  foliage  and  Scripture  histories. 
The  general  costume  and  treatment  of 
many  of  the  figures  is  that  of  the  Lower 
Empire :  they  were  executed  most  pro- 
bably in  the  9th  century,  and  were  re- 
stored in  1750,  when  the  two  bronze 
masks  were  added.  As  for  the  remark- 
able event  to  which  the  tradition  refers, 
it  took  place  at  the  gate  of  the  Basilica 
Portiana,  how  the  ch.  of  San  Vittore  al 
Corpo.  Over  the  side  doors  are  rude 
reliefs  of  a  martyr  between  2  lions. 

With  respect  to  the  architecture  of 
the  interior,  it  was,  like  the  atrium, 
Lombard ;  but  in  the  13th  century 
pointed  arches  were  built  up  under  the 
circular  ones  which  support  the  roof, 
in  order  to  strengthen  them. 

The  iaside  of  the  church  was  origin- 
ally divided  on  the  plan  into  square 
portions,  each  division  having  two 
semicircular  arched  openings  on  each 
side  below,  and  two  above  in  the  gallery, 
and  a  vaulting  of  semicircular  groined 
arches,  groinings  being  added  on  the 
roof.  The  first  two  squares  remain 
nearly  in  the  original  state,  but  the  third 
has  double  pointed  groins  springing 
from  a  lower  point ;  the  strong  ribs 
which  separate  the  squares  unite  Hke- 
wise  so  as  to  form  a  pointed  arch.  The 
fourth  square  is  covered  by  the  lan- 
tern, which  is  probably  an  addition  of 
the  13th  century.  There  are  no  tran- 
septs. The  parallel  walls  of  the  build- 
ing continue  a  Uttle  beyond  the  lantern, 
and  terminate  in  the  ancient  tribune, 
between  which  and  the  nave  rises  the 
Saldachino  over  the  high  altar,  sup- 
ported by  4  columns  of  porphyry.  In 
front  of  the  Baldachino  is  a  gilt  bas- 
reUef,  Christ  seated  between  two  per- 
sonages kneeling,  ofiering  to  one  a  book 
with  the  inscription  Capiat  Libbtjm 
Sapibntia  ;  to  the  other  two  rods  with 
a  kind  of  key,  supposed  to  indicate  St. 
Peter.  These  bas-reliefs  are  in  the 
same  style  as  the  early  Christian  ino- 


saics  at  Bavenna,  each  figm»e  receiving 
the  offerings  in  the  folds  of  his  mantle. 
Beneath  are  the  bodies  of  SS.  Ger- 
vaaius  and  Protasius,  deposited  here  in 
A.D.  530  by  Archbishop  Angilbertus ; 
their  graves  may  be  seen  through  a 
grating  in  the  crypt  j  that  of  St.  Am- 
brose was  placed  in  his  church  in  a.d. 
397  by  St.  Bassianus  of  Lodi.  One 
of  the  great  curiosities  of  the  Basilica 
is  the  splendid  facing  of  the  altar, 
which  is  one  of  the  most  remarkable 
monuments  of  goldsmith's  art  of  the 
middle  ages.  It  was  presented  by 
Archbishop  Angilbertus  11.  (about 
835),  and  its  interest  is  increased  by 
the  preservation  of  the  name  of  the 
artist  "  Volvinius,"  who  describes  him- 
self as  "  Magi^ter  Paber,"  or  Master 
Smith,  just  as  the  famous  "  Wieland  " 
is  styled  Meister  Sehmied  in  the  Nie- 
belungen  lay.  His  name  seems  to  in- 
dicate that  he  was  of  Teutonic  race — a 
circumstance  which  has  excited  much 
controversy  amongst  the  modem  Ita- 
lian antiquaries.  The  front  of  the 
altar  is  of  plates  of  gold;  the  back 
and  sides  are  of  silver,  all  richly 
enamelled  and  set  with  precious  stones : 
the  latter  are  all  rough,  at  least  not 
poHshed  according  to  our  present 
mode.  The  golden  front  is  in  three 
divisions,  each  containing  smaller 
compartments:  in  the  centre  one  are 
nine,  containing  our  Lord,  the  em- 
blems of  the  Four  Evangelists,  and 
the  Twelve  Apostles.  The  two  lateral 
compartments  contain  the  principal 
events  of  the  life  of  our  Lord.  The 
Transfiguration  is  represented  ac- 
cording to  the  type  followed,  without 
any  variation,  in  all  the  ^irly  Greek 
and  in  most  of  the  Latin  delineations 
of  that  miracle.  The  sides  and  the 
back  of  the  altar,  though  less  valuable 
in  material,  are  perhaps  more  beautiftd 
than  the  front,  from  the  greater  variety 
of  colour  which  they  exhibit.  The 
bas-reliefs  on  them  are  the  following 
(we  add  the  descriptions,  because  the  in- 
scriptions are  not  easily  read,  and  the 
Custode  explains  them  ad  libitttm)  : — 
L-hand  side.  Eight  angels  bearing 
vials  i   four    whole-length  figures,  not 


1&2 


Houte  21. — Milan — Sani^  A'/rihrogid, 


Sect.  111. 


appropriated ;  and  four  medaUions, 
representing  SS.  Ambrose,  Simplicia- 
nus,  Geryasius,  and  Protasius. 

rt.-hand  side.  The  four  archangels, 
Michael,  Gbbriel,  Baphael,  and  Uriel. 
Four  angels  with  rials,  and  four  saints, 
SS.  Martin,  Matemus,  Nabor,  who 
suffered  martyrdom  with  St.  Felix,  at 
Milan,  a.d.  304,  and  St.  Nazarius. 

But  the  back  is  the  most  interesting 
part,  for  here  are  represented  the  prin- 
cipal events  of  the  life  of  St.  Ambrose,' 
and  here  the  artist  has  left  his  por- 
traiture.  Like  the  front,  it  consists  of 
three  grand  compartments  divided  into 
smaller  tablets.  These  are  separated 
by  enamelled  borders.  Centre :  The 
archangels  Michael  and  Ghibriel.  St. 
Ambrose  bestowing  his  blessing  upon 
the  Archbishop  Angilbert ;  and,  in  the 
pendant,  he  is  also  blessing  the  master 
smith  Wolvinus.  Lateral  tablets.  The 
history  begins  with  the  lowest  tablet  at 
the  1.  comer,  and  thus  we  shall  ac- 
cordingly describe  them,  proceeding 
upwards.  (1.)  The  bees  swarming 
around  the  sleeping  child.  St.  Am- 
brose, bom  A.D.  340,  was  the  son  of 
the  prefect  of  the  Ghiuls.  The  legend 
teUs  us  that  the  swarm  thus  flew  about 
the  infant's  cradle,  whilst  he  was  lying 
in  one  of  the  courts  of  his  father's 
palace  at  Aries.  This  was  considered 
a  presage  of  future  eloquence.  Nearly 
the  same  story  is  told  of  St.  Domi- 
nick,  and  of  Pindar.  (2.)  Ambrose 
jjroceeds  to  take  the  command  of  the 
eastern  and  Ligurian  provinces  of 
Italy.  (3.)  St.  Ambrose,  having  been 
chosen  Archbishop  of  Milan  by  accla- 
mation (a.d.  375),  attempts  to  escape 
his  promotion  by  flight.  (4.)  His  bap- 
tism, which  did  not  take  place  until 
after  he  waa  nominated  by  the  people 
to  the  archbishopric.  (5.)  Ambrose  is 
ordained  bishop.  (6,  7.)  Whilst  en- 
tranced, he  is  present,  in  spirit,  at  the 
funeral  of  St.  Martin  of  Tours — a  le- 
gend, of  which  the  futihty  has  been 
pointed  out  by  Baronius.  (8.)  St. 
Ambrose  preaching,  but  prompted  by 
angels.  (9.)  Heals  the  lame.  (10.) 
He  is  visited  by  our  Lord.  (11.)  The 
apparition  of  the  angel  calling  St.  Ho- 


norat  Bifihop  of  Yei^lli  to  administer 
the  viaticum  to  St.  Ambrose,  then  on 
his  deathbed.  (12.)  His  death ;  angels 
receiving  his  soul.  This  monument  is 
important  as  an  authentic  record  of 
ecclesiastical  costume.  It  narrowly 
escaped  being  seized  and  melted  down 
by  the  revolutionary  commissioners  in 
1797.  Except  upon  high  festivals,  it  is 
covered  up,  but  it  is  shown  upon  pay- 
ment of  a  fee  to  the  sacristan. 

Near  the  end  of  the  singing  gallery, 
towards  the  altar,  is  a  half-length 
figure  in  bas-relief,  with  shaven  head 
and  chin,  long  pallium,  and  pontifical 
garments,  the  right  hand  being  raised 
in  the  act  of  giving  benediction,  the 
left  holding  an  open  book  on  which  is 
written  Sanctus  Ambrosius.  It  is  an 
ancient  representation  of  the  saint. 

In  the  nave  of  the  church,  placed 
upon  a  granite  pillar,  is  a  serpent  of 
bronze,  the  subject  of  strange  tradi- 
tions. It  is  said  to  be  the  brazen 
serpent  of  the  desert  (in  spite  of  the 
Scripture  account  of  the  destruction  of 
that  type),  and  as  such  was  given,  in 
1001,  to  the  Archbishop  Amulphus  by 
the  Emperor  of  Constantinople.  It  is 
probably  an  Alexandrian  talisman  of 
the  3rd  or  4th  century. 

The  pulpit  is  a  curious  structure, 
standing  upon  eight  circular  arches.  It 
is  said  to  have  been  rebuilt  in  1201 ;  but 
most  of  the  ornaments  are  so  evidently 
of  the  earliest  Lombard  period,  that  it 
can  only  have  been  then  repaired.  A 
remarkable,  but  very  rude,  bas-relief, 
representing  the  Aga/pe^  or  love-feast, 
should  be  noticed.  The  bronze  eagle 
for  suppoi'ting  the  book,  with  the  figure 
of  the  Saviour  beneath,  is  of  the  work- 
manship of  the  lower  empire.  Beneath 
it  is  a  well-preserved  Christian  sarco- 
phagus ;  the  cover,  with  Christian  em- 
blems, does  not  appear  to  have  be- 
longed to  it  originally.  It  has  been 
caUed  the  tomb  of  Stilicho  j  but  this 
is  an  antiquarian  whim,  there  not 
being  the  slightest  foimdation  for  the 
opinion. 

Near  the  entrance  of  the  choir  are 
two  slabs  with  inscriptions,  the  one 
covering  the  tomb  of  Archbishop  An- 


LoMBARDY. 


Eoute  21. — MUan — Sanf  Amh^ogio. 


193 


spertus,  the    other  of   the    Emperor 
Louis  II.,  who  died  875. 

The  tribune,  or  eastern  termination, 
is  the  most  unaltered  portion  of  the 
edifice.     The  vaulting  is  covered  with 
mosaic  upon  a  gold  ground — a  splendid 
specimen  of  the  Byzantine  style,  and 
the  first  which  the  traveller  sees  in 
this  part  of  Italy.     It  represents   the 
Saviour,  and  SS.  Protasius,  Qervasius, 
Satirus,  Marcellina,  Candida,  and  the 
two    cities    of   Milan  and   Tours,  in 
allusion  to  the  legend  of  St.  Ambrose 
being    present    at  the  death    of    St. 
Martin  without  leaving  Milan.      The 
inscriptions  are  partly  in  Q-reek,   ex- 
hibiting  in   its  spelling   the  present 
Bomaic  pronunciation,  and  partly  in 
Latin.    A  monogram,  conjecturally  de- 
ciphered, probably  contains  the  name 
of  the  donor  and  the  dedication  of  the 
work;  and  in  the  hieroglyphics,  con- 
tained within  a  square  cartouche,  the 
erudite  may  discover  the  names  of  the 
Abbot  G-audentius,  of  Archbp.  Angel- 
bert,  and  of  the  Emperor  Louis  II. 
But  whether  the  interpretation  be  cor- 
rect or  not,  the  character  of  the  work 
is   certainly  not  later  than   the    9th 
century,  and  probably  of   an  earher 
period. 

In  the  centre  of  the  choir  is  a  very 
cunious  marble  throne;  called  the  chair 
of  St.  Ambrose,  of  an  ancient  form, 
decorated  with  lions  at  the  arms,  and 
a  simple  scrollwork.  It  is,  in  fact, 
the  primitive  throne  of  the  Arch- 
bishops of  Milan,  on  which  they  sat, 
according  to  the  ancient  practice  of 
the  Church,  in  the  midst  of  the  18 
8uffi*agans  of  the  province,  of  whom 
the  most  northern  was  the  Bishop  of 
Chur  or  Coire,  and  the  most  southern, 
of  Qenoa.  The  chairs  of  the  bishops 
remained  imtil  the  16th  century,  when 
they  were  replaced  by  wood  stalls  for 
the  canons,  carved  in  a  rich  Flemish 
style,  but  so  as  to  make  us  regret  the 
loss  of  antique  simphcity.  When  the 
traveller  reaches  Torcello  (see  Tp.  414) 
he  will  find  the  ancient  arrangement 
^till  unaltered.  Beneath  the  choir  is 
a  large  crypt  modernised  by  Card. 
Borromeo :   the  roof  is  supported  by 


26  columns  of  red  marble  with  Doric 
capitals  in  black. 

The  chapel  of  San  Satiro,  opening 
into  the  passage  from  the  sacristy,  con- 
tains by  far  the  most  interesting  mosaics 
in  this  church.    This  chapel  was,  in  the 
time  of  St.  Ambrose,  the  basilica  of 
Fausta,   but    afterwards  received   the 
name  of  "  St.  Vittore  in  cielo  d*  oro," 
from  the  mosaic  on   the  ceiling.     It 
originally  stood  separated  horn,  the  edi- 
fice of  St.  Ambrogio  by  a  narrow  street, 
but  was  united  when  the  basilica  was 
rebuilt.     The  mosaics  represent  in  full- 
length  figures  Ambrose,  Protasius,  Ger- 
vasius,    Felix,  Matemus,  and  Nabor: 
none    are    designated    as    saints,'  or 
crowned  with  the  nimbus :  in  the  centre 
is   a  medallion,  supposed  to  represent 
St.  "Victor.      The  probabihty  is,  that 
they  were  executed  not  long  after  the 
age  of  St.  Ambrose  himself^  perhaps  in 
the  5th  century.   The  nimbi  and  letters 
which  are  seen  are  a  climasy  addition 
of  a  later  period.     The  front  of  the 
altar  has  a  curious  low-relief  of  an  early 
period,  ornamented  with  Greek  crosses. 
Behind  this  altar  is  a  good  fresco  of 
our  Saviour  between  Angels  by  BoT" 
gognone,  and  in  a  chapel  close  by  a 
Gloria  by  &.  Tiepolo, 

The  church  contains  several  good 
paintings  :  in  the  1st  chapel  on  the  rt.  a 
Holy  Family  with  St.  Jerome  and  St. 
John  the  Baptist,  by  Luini^  seen  with 
difficulty  from  the  bad  light;  in  the  2nd, 
now  forming  an  entrance,  frescoes  of 
the  Deposition  by  Gaudenzio  Ferrari^ 
and  opposite  the  3  Maries  and  our 
Lord  bearing  the  Cross,  by  B.  Luini; 
a  modernised  chapel,  3rd  on  rt.,  has, 
over  the  altar,  a  good  statue  of  a 
kneeling  figuris,  by  Marched;  in  the 
7th,  St.  G«orge  destroying  the  Dragon, 
and  the  Martyrdom  of  the  Saint,  attri- 
buted to  Luin%  JJanini,  SLsidSorgognone; 
the  vault  and  arches,  beautifully  deco- 
rated with  flowers,  arabesques,  and 
children.  The  passage  out  of  the  1. 
aisle  has  a  Christ  disputing  with  the 
Doctors,  a  feeble  work  by  Borgognone  ; 
and  a  Yirgin  and  Child  on  panel,  of 
the  very  early  Lombard  school.  There 
is    some    fine    church    plate    in    the 


194 


JRoute  2 1 . — MUan —  Churches. 


Sect.  III. 


sacristy,  especially  an  ostensorium,  in 
the  form  of  the  handsome  campanile 
of  the  church  of  S.  Gottardo,  given 
by  Azzo  Yisconti.  In  'the  archives 
of  tlie  chapter  are  several  diplomas  of 
the  8th  and  9th  centuries,  and  a  missal, 
vrith  fine  miniatures,  of  1398,  a  gift  of 
Gian'  G^aleazzo ;  also  some  beautiful 
illuminated  choir-books  of  the  15th 
and  16th  cents,  in  excellent  preserva- 
tion, the  pictorial  capitals  in  which 
are  works  of  art  of  high  order.  The 
archives  of  San  Ambrogio  were  removed 
to  the  General  Record  Office,  and  its 
library  to  Brera,  in  1799. 

The  adjoining  Convent  of  Sant'  Am- 
brogio, now  used  as  a  mihtary  hospital, 
was  built  about  1495  by  Bramante, 
and  retains  vestiges  of  its  ancient 
magnificence.  The  splendid  cloister  has 
been  destroyed.  The  refectory  is  a  fine 
specimen  of  an  interior  in  the  deco- 
rated Itahan  style :  it  is  painted  in 
fresco  by  Calisto  da  Lodi,  iS^S.  This 
sumptuous  hall  was  converted  during 
the  Austrian  occupation  into  a  ward  for 
patients  affected  with  loathsome  dis- 
eases ;  and  whilst  this  occupation  of  the 
chamber  prevents  its  being  examined 
with  any  degree  of  pleasure,  the  exha- 
lations have  greatly  altered  the  colours 
of  the  paintings. 

Outside  of  the  forecourt  of  Sant' 
Ambrogio  stands  a  soHtary  Corinthian 
column,  a  relic  of  Koman  Milan.  It 
has  been  found  by  recent  excavations 
that  this  pillar  did  not  belong  to  a 
building  formerly  standing  here,  but 
had  been  placed  here  singly,  probably 
to  support  a  statue. 

Ch.  of  S.  Ahssandro.  This  chui'ch 
belonged  to  the  Bamabites,  by  whom  it 
was  rebuilt  in  1602,  from  a  design  of  one 
of  their  order,  Lorenzo  Binaghi.  The 
interior  is  the  richest  in  Milan  in  paint- 
ing and  decoration,  without  containing 
any  work  deserving  of  being  particularly 
noted.  Over  the  nave  rises  a  large 
cupola,  and  at  the  intersection  of  the 
transepts  a  smaller  one.  The  facade, 
with  its  2  beU-towers,  is  incomplete. 
The  Bamabites,  in  1723,  established 


here,  in  emulation  of  the  Jesuits,  a 
college  for  noble  families;  whence  the 
neighbouring  street  acquired  the  name 
of  Contrada  dei  NobiU,  recently  re- 
baptized  dell'  Unione.  The  large  pa- 
lace opposite  this  ch.  belongs  to  the 
Trivulzi  family,  one  of  the  most  his- 
torically celebrated  in  Italy. 

Ch.  of  San  Antonio^  built  in  1632, 
from  the  designs  of  F.  JRichini.  It  con- 
tains 7  chapels  richly  ornamented  vrith 
marbles  and  paintings.  The  vault  of 
the  nave  is  painted  in  fresco,  by  Car- 
lone  ;  the  subjects  relate  to  the  Cruci- 
fixion and  the  Miracles  of  the  Cross. 
The  choir  is  painted  by  Moncalvo  :  the 
subjects  are  taken  from  the  history  of 
St.  Paul  the  Hermit,  and  St.  Anthony 
the  patron  saint.  In  the  first  chapel 
on  the  rt.  hand  the  picture  of  St. 
Andrea  di  Avellino  is  by  Cerano.  The 
Nativity,  in  the  2nd  chapel,  is  by  JS, 
Campi,  and  another  further  on  by  one 
of  the  Carheei.  In  the  principal  chapel 
on  the  1.,  Christ  bearing  his  Cross  is 
by  Palma  CHovane.  In  the  chapel  of 
the  Annunciation  are  various  works  of 
G,  C.  Procaecini, 

San*  Bernardino  del  Monte,  in  the 
Piazza  del  Verzaro;  an  octagonal 
church,  with  a  cupola ;  attached  to 
it  is  a  sepulchral  chapel,  entirely 
walled  vrith  skulls  and  bones  symme- 
trically disposed.  Some  say  that  they 
are  the  remains  of  the  Cathohcs  slain 
by  the  Arians  in  the  time  of  St.  Am- 
brose. They  are  not,  however,  considered 
as  relics  ;  and  the  exhibition  of  these 
gloomy  tokens  of  mortality  is  merely 
intended  to  excite  devotional  feelings. 
The  oblations  for  masses  are  said  to 
amount  annually  to  between  10,000 
and  15,000  lire. ' 

San  Carlo  Borromeo,  in  the  Corse 
Yittorio  Emmanuele,  built  by  contribu- 
tions raised  amongst  the  inhabitants  of 
Milan  after  the  first  invasion  of  the 
cholera,  from  the  designs  of  AmatL  The 
first  stone  was  laid  on  the  29th  of  Dec. 
1838.  It  is  an  extensive  circular  edifice, 
surmounted  by  a  dome,  and  only  second 


LOMBARDY. 


Route  2 1 . — Milan —  Churches, 


195 


in  size  to  the  Pantheon  at  Borne,  its 
diameter   being    105  feet,    its  height 
120  feet,  and  with  the  lantern  150  j 
it  is  consequently  larger  than  either 
the  domes   of  Possagno  or  G-hisalba. 
In  front  is  a  fine  Corinthian  peristyle, 
opening  on  a   square,  surrounded  by 
a  portico  of  granite  columns  of  the 
same  order.     The  interior  has  still  an 
imfinished,  bare  look,  notwithstanding 
the  24)  magnificent    columns  of   red 
Baveno    granite    which    decorate    it. 
Amongst  the  works  of  art  which  it 
contains,    the    most    remarkable    are 
MarchesVs  group  of  the  dead  Saviour 
and  Yirgin,  called  ilYenerdi  Santo :  and 
in  an  opposite  chapel,  San  Carlo  ad- 
ministering the  Sacrament  to  a  young 
man,  by  the  same  artist.    The  high 
altar  is  a  handsome  structure  in  white 
marble  and  gilt  bronze.    The  chapel  of 
San  Yincenzo  da  Paola  has  a  bais-relief 
of  the  saint  over  the  altar,  and  a  good 
modem  painted  glass  window  of  St. 
Charles  administering  the   Sacrament 
during  the  plague;  the  paintings  on 
the  cupola  represent  St.  Charles  carried 
to  heayen  by  angels,  or  his  Glorifica- 
tion.     The  outer  appearance  of  the 
edifice  is  poor,  from  the  disproportion 
of  the  immense  dome  with  the  low 
peristyle    and    colonnade.     The    old 
church  of  the  Seroi,  which  contained 
some  good  paintings,  wa9  pulled  down 
to  make  room  for  the  portico. 

San  CelsOy  in  the  Borgo  San  Celso. 
In  a  field  called  "ad  Tres  Moros  "  St. 
Ambrose,  in  396,  discovered  the  bodies 
of  SS.  Nazarus  and  Celsus,  martyrs. 
St.  Nazarus  he  dug  up  and  deposited  in 
the  church  of  the  Sant'  ApostoH :  but 
over  that  of  S.  Celsus,  which  was  al- 
lowed to  remain  in  its  original  resting- 
place,  he  built  a  small  ch.,  afterwards 
enlarged,  and  restored  in  1651.  There 
only  now  remains  the  choir,  an  ancient 
painting  in  a  lunette,  and  a  door  with 
symboUcal  ornaments  of  the  10th 
century.  The  square  brick  campanile 
is  a  good  specimen  of  this  class  of 
edifices  of  the  13th  or  14th  centy. 
During  the  recent  repairs  several  frag- 
ments of   early   Christian    sculpture 


which  were  dug  up  in  the  neighbour- 
hood, have  been  placed  on  the  walls, 
and  the  front  painted  to  represent  an 
atrium,  which  is  supposed  to  have  stood 
in  front  of  this  ch.,  similar  to  that  of  St. 
Ambrogio.  Adjoining  this  is  the  finech. 
of-  La  Madonna  di  S.  Celso  (see  p.  199). 

St  Stifemia,  in  the  Corso  di  San 
Celso,  with  an  Ionic  vestibule,  con- 
tains, in  the  first  chapel  on  left,  a  pic- 
ture by  Marco  d!  Oggione,  The  Death 
of  St.  Eufemia  is  asserted  to  be  by 
ISiian, 

8.  !Eustorgio^  situated  at  the  end  of 
the    Borgo    di    Cittadella,    near    the 
Porta  Ticinese.      The  suburb  of  the 
Porta  Ticinese  was    first   surrounded 
with  a  wall  by  the  Yiscontis,  and  called 
Cittadella,  a  nam©  which  thus  remains. 
This  church  is-  one  of  the  oldest  in 
Milan,  having  been  dedicated  in  the 
fourth    century,    a.i>.   320,   by  Arch- 
bishop Etfstorgius,  who  is  said  to  have 
deposited  in  it  the  bodies  of  the  three 
Magjk,  presented    to  him  by  the  Em- 
pcfDr  Constantine.   It  is  one  of  the  few 
remains  of  ancient  Milan  which  escaped 
destruction  from   Barbarossa.      After 
many  vicissitudes  it  was  attached  to 
a  Dominican  convent.    This  order  esta- 
bUshed  themselves,  and  the  tribunal  of 
the  Inqidsition,   here,   in  1218.      At 
their  expense  the  church,   or  rather 
aggregation  of  churches,  which  is  now 
called  S.  Eustorgio,  was  reduced  to  its 
present  form  by  Tomaso  Lomhardino. 
The  campanile  was  built  between  1297 
and  1309.   The  church  was  finally  com- 
pleted by  F,  Bichim.    As  a  repository 
of  sepulchral  monuments  it  is  the  most 
interesting  in  Milan.   These  are  pointed 
to   by  Cicognara  as  worthy  of  more 
notice  than  they  generally  receive.    All 
have  sufiered  more  or  less  from  Yan- 
dalism  during  the  early  occupation  of 
the  French,  and  of  the  Cisalpine  Ee- 
public.     The  armorial  bearings  have 
been  completely  defaced,  the  inscrip- 
tions  of  titles   of  nobility  and  honour 
chiseled  out.     In  their  present  state  it 
is  very  difficult  to  make  out  to  whom 
several  of  the  tombs  belong.   In  the  first 


196 


Route  2 1 .  — Milan —  Churches* 


Sect.  III. 


chapel  on  the   rt.  the  monument    of 
Steiano  Brivio   (ob.   14s85)   is  of  very 
delicate  cinquecento  work.     It  is  said 
to  be  from  a  design  of  JBramante.   Over 
the  altar  are  3  paintings  by   Borgo- 
gnonCy  the  subjects  are  the  Virgin  with 
Infant  Saviour,  and  two  Saints.     The 
next,  the  chapel  of  St.  Dominick,  con- 
tains a  moniunent  to  Fietro,  a  son  of 
Q-uido  Torelli,  Lord  of  Guastalla,  of 
1416.  ,  In  the  4th  chapel  is  the  tomb 
of   Stefano  Yisconti,   son  of   Matteo 
Magno ;    the     sarcophagus    with    its 
Gothic  canopy  supported  by  spiral  co- 
lumns resting  on  marble  lions.     In  the 
6th  chapel,  dedicated  to  St.  James^  is 
the  fine  tomb  of    Q-asparo  Visconti, 
though  mutilated,   and   the    armorial 
bearings  upon  the  shields  obliterated, 
by  the  republicans  of  1796  ;  but  some 
traces  of  the  insignia  of  the  Order  of  the 
Charter  may  yet  be  discerned.    Grasparo 
obtained    this    distinction    in    conse- 
quence of  his  having  been  repeatedly 
despatched  to  the  court  of  Edward  III., 
upon  the  negotiations  for  the  matri- 
monial alliances  effected  or  proposed 
between   our  Royal  Family  and  the 
Yiscontis :   he   died  about  1430.     On 
the  sarcophagus  are  reliefs  of  the  Adora- 
tion of  the  Magi.    The  opposite  tomb 
of  Agnes,   the  wife  of  (>asparo,  has 
been  also  much  injured.     It  appears  to 
have  been  taken  down  and  the  frag- 
ments rebuilt,  but  not  exactly  in  their 
original  position.     The  costume  of  the 
principal  figure  is  curious :   she  holds 
an  immense  rosary.       In  the  chapel 
on  the   right    of   the    high  altar   is 
an    enormous    sarcophagus,    destitute 
of  sculptures    or   inscriptions,  which 
once    held   the    relics    of    the    three 
kings  of  the  East.     When  we  say  that 
it   has  no    inscription^  we  exclude  a 
modem    one   in   large    gilt  letters, — 
"  Sepulchrum  trium  magorum."      At 
the  approach  of  Frederick  Barbarossa 
the  citizens  removed  the  relics  from  this 
church,  which  then  stood  without  the 
walls,  to  another,  deemed  more  secui'e. 
But  in  vain ;  upon  the  fall  of  the  city 
the  relics  became  the  trophies  of  the  vic- 
tor, and  Archbishop  Binaldus,  of  Co- 
logne, carried  them  off  to  his  own  city. 


Opposite  is  a  bas-relief  representing  the 
Nativity,  and  the  Adoration  of  the  three 
Kings,   which,    as  appears   from   the 
inscription   beneath,   was  put  up    in 
1347.   It  is  supposed  to  have  been  exe- 
cuted by  some  of  the  scholars  of  Bal^ 
diiccio  da  Pisa.     A  passage  leads  from 
tlie  subterranean  chapel  under  the  choir 
to  the  sacristy  and  the  chapel  of  S. 
Peter   Martyr.      It  was    erected    by 
a  Florentine,  Pigello  dei  Fortlnari,  in 
1460,  and  in  it  has  been  placed  the  shrine 
or  sepulchre   of  this  saint,  a  work  of 
Balduccio  himself,  which  is  an  exceed- 
ingly beautiful    specimen    of   Tuscan 
art.     Cicognara  considers  it  as  a  mas- 
terpiece.    Balduccio  was   one  of  the 
artists  invited  by  Azzo  Visconti  for  the 
adornment    of    his  metropolis.      The 
general  plan  is  like  that  of  the  shrine 
of  Edward  the  Confessor  in  Westmin- 
ster Abbey ;   a  lower  story,  a  base  sup- 
ported by  eight  beautifiil  pilasters,  with 
statues  in   front,  and  the  sepulchral 
urn  above.     Statues,  full  of  simplicity, 
stand  on  the  Oothic  pilasters  below; 
the  Doctors  of  the  Church,  St.  Thomas 
and  St.   Eustorgius   round  the    urn. 
More  interesting  to  the  stranger,  be- 
cause more  novel,  are  the  allegorical 
representations  of  the  Virtues.   Beyond 
the  Alps  such  allegories  are  rare  ;  not 
occurring   very  often  in    the   Q-othic 
buildings  of  France,  and  still  more  sel- 
dom in  England,  but  they  are  amongst 
the  peculiar  characteristics  of  the  Pisan 
school; — Charity, — Faith, — ^Fortitude. 
— Prudence  represented  as  having  three 
fkcea,  contemplating  past,  present,  and 
future.  —  Hope  looking  upwards  and 
grasping  a  nosegay  of  budding  flowers. 
— Obedience  holding  a  Bible. — Tem- 
perance   pouring  forth  water  from  a 
vase.     On  the  tomb  above  are  eight 
bas-reliefs,  representing  events  in  the 
life  of  St.  Peter  Martyr.      Balduccio 
has  subscribed  his  name  and  date  to 
this   monument,  —  "Magister  Johan- 
nes Balducci  de  Pisis,  sculpsit  hanc 
archam,   anno   Domini  1339."       The 
material  is  white  marble.    A  likeness 
of  Pigello  is  preserved  in  an  ancient 
painting  above  the  door.     On  one  of 
the  walls  of  this  chapel  is  the  sepulchral 


LOMBARDY. 


Boute  21. — Milan — Churches. 


197 


inscription  of  Q-eorge  Merula,  the  his- 
torian. The  high  altar  has  been  recently 
restored  ;  over  it  are  the  nine  bas-reliefs 
relative  to  the  Saviour's  Passion  and  the 
Crucifixion,  given  by  Gian'  G^eazzo.  In 
the  Piazza  outside  of  the  ch.  is  a  pulpit, 
from  which  it  is  said  that  Peter  Martyr 
preached  to  the  multitude  against  the 
Cathari  and  other  heresies  which  then 
abounded  in  Milan.  It  is  a  species 
of  Paul's  Cross  pulpit.  Era'  Pietro 
dicl  not,  however,  content  himself  with 
preaching,  but  worked  out  in  practice 
what  has  been  approvingly  styled  "  the 
theory  of  persecution."  He  exercised 
without  mercy  the  office  of  inquisitor 
in  the  monastery  of  the  Dominicans 
formerly  attachea  to  this  church,  and 
fell  a  victim  quite  as  much  to  the  fears 
as  to  the  revenge  of  those  who  slew 
him  near  Barlassina,  6th  of  April, 
1252.  The  Church  of  Rome,  in  ad- 
miration of  his  principles  and  prac- 
tice, canonised  him  only  13  years  after 
his  death.  In  the  same  square  is  a 
statue  of  Peter  Martyr,  on  an  elevated 
granite  column.  The  adjoining  convent 
was,  in  1798,  turned  into  a  barrack. 

S.  Fedele,  one  of  the  most  elegant 
churches  in  Milan,  bmlt  for  the  Jesuits 
by  S.  Carlo,  by  whom  they  were  esta- 
bhshed  here.  It  is  from  the  designs 
of  Pellegrini,  The  bas-reUefs  of  the 
front  are  by  Gaetano  Monti  of  Ravenna 
and  his  pupils,  and  have  considerable 
merit.  Since  the  suppression  of  the 
Jesuits  the  adjoining  college  has  been 
converted  into  the  Mepository  of  the 
Pvhlic  Archives^  which  contains  many 
documents  of  great  interest  on  the 
mediaeval  history  of  Italy.  San  Fedele 
may  be  called  the  fashionable  church 
of  Milan,  as  the  visitor  will  see  by 
going  there  at  high  mass  on  Sundays. 

S.  Giorgio  in  Palazzo  was  founded  in 
750,  by  Saint  Natalis.  The  fa9ade  was 
restored  in  1800,  by  B.  Ferrari,  The 
interior  in  1821,  by  Canonica.  It  has 
thus  been  much  modernized.  The 
frescoes  on  the  ceiling  of  the  choir 
are  by  S.  Montalto.  It  also  con- 
tains, in   the  1st   chapel  on   the  rt., 


a  St.  Jerome,  by  Gaudenzio  Ferrari, 
and,  in  the  3rd  on  the  same  side, 
a  Deposition  over  the  altar  and  an  Ecce 
Homo,  on  one  of  the  piers,  by  P. 
Jjuini,  amongst  the  best  pictures  of  the 
master.  Both  are  in  good  preserva- 
tion, but  in  an  execrable  Ught ;  there 
are  some  fair  frescoes  of  the  Crucifixion 
on  the  arch  of  this  chapel. 

San  Giovanni  in  Conca,  shut  up  and 
desecrate^'  The  front  exhibits  a 
curious  mixture  of  the  circular  and 
pointed  styles;  the  central  entrance 
and  the  rose  window  over  it  are  good. 
The  figure  of  St.  John  the  EvangeUst 
over  the  door,  in  a  Conca  or  oil  caldron, 
explains  the  name  of  the  ch.  Here  were 
the  tombs  of  the  Yisconti  family.  The 
monument  of  Bemabo  has  been  removed 
to  the  Brera  museum.  Adjoining  the 
ch.  is  a  lofty  bell-tower,  long  used  as  a 
meteorological  observatory.  To  the  1. 
of  this  ch.  is  what  was  the  Casa  Sforza  : 
over  the  door  is  a  fine  uninjured  shield 
of  their  arms,  rarely  seen  in  Milan,  and 
busts  of  the  Emps.  Titus  and  Nero  j  and 
on  the  rt.  a  house  called  Dei  Cani,  from 
the  dogs  which  Bemabo  Yisconti  kept 
in  it. 

S.  Lorenzo.  In  the  Corso  di  P.  Ti- 
cinese,  close  to  this  church,  stand  the 
Colonne  di  San  Lorenzo,  the  most  con- 
siderable vestige  of  the  architectural 
magnificence  of  Roman  Milan.  These 
columns,  16  in  number,  are  of  the  Co- 
rinthian order.  Mouldering,  fire-scathed, 
shattered  by  violence,  these  rehcs  con- 
trast strangely  with  the  bustle  and 
vivacity  of  the  street  in  wliich  they 
stand.  According  to  the  earUest  Mi- 
lanese historians,  they  are  portions  of 
the  Temple  of  Hercules,  built  by  Maxi- 
minian  in  honour  of  his  tutelary  deity. 
Modem  antiquaries  consider  them  as 
portions  of  the  peristyle  of  the  baths  of 
Hercules,  commemorated  by  Ausonius 
in  the  epigram  which  we  have  before 
cited;  and  the  constructions  which 
can  yet  be  traced  in  the  adjoining 
church  seem  to  confirm  this  conclu- 
sion. An  inscription  in  honour  of 
Lucius  Verus,  built  into   a  pier,  has 


198 


Boute  2 1 . — HUan —  Churches, 


Sect.  III. 


evidently  no  concern  witli  the  columns, 
and     another,     containmg     tlie    fol- 

N. 
lowing  letters,  A.        P.,  on  what  is 

T.  I.  s. 
supposed  to  be  a  part  of  the  original 
edifice,  does  not  afford  much  explana- 
tion. The  style  has  been  assigned 
to  the  3rd  century.  The  increased 
intercolumniation  of  the  8  columns 
on  the  1.  is  an  irregularity  found  in 
the  nearly  contemporary  palace  at 
Spalatro.  The  ancient  church  of  San 
Lorenzo  fell  down  in  1573.  It  had 
preyiously  sustained  many  mischances, 
particularly  in  1071,  when  it  was  burnt. 
It  was  by  this  fire  that  the  columns 
were  so  much  damaged.  Pellegrini^ 
the  builder  of  the  Escurial,  a  good 
painter  as  well  as  an  architect,  was  em- 
ployed by  San  Carlo  Borromeo  to  give 
the  designs  for  the  new  structure,  but 
they  were  partly  altered  by  Martino 
Bassi,  The  interior  was  rebuilt  in  some 
degree  upon  the  plan  of  San  Vitale,  at 
Ravenna,  and  has  8  sides,  4  being  filled 
by  lofty  arches  enclosing  recesses  or 
galleries.  The  arches  which  fill  the  in- 
tervals are  smaller;  2  orders  are  employ- 
ed, the  lower  is  Doric  with  octagonal 
pilasters,  the  higher  Ionic.  The  arches 
are  surmounted  by  a  Boric  cornice, 
•which  serves  as  the  impost  to  the  cu- 
pola, a  regular  octagon,  having  a  win- 
dow in  each  compartment.  In  a  chapel 
behind  the  high  altar  is  the  mausoleum 
erected  by  Gaspare  Visconti  to  G-io. 
Oonti  in  1538.  At  the  first  altar  on 
the  rt.  hand  the  pictures  are  by  A, 
Lumi,  The  Baptism  of  our  Saviour  is 
pleasing.  There  are  also,  in  other 
parts  of  the  ch.,  the  Martyrdom  of  SS. 
Hippolytus  and  Cassianus,  by  Srcole 
Procacdni  —  the  Visitation*  by  Mo- 
razzone — and  a  good  fresco,  represent- 
ing the  discovery  of  the  body  of  Sta. 
Natalia,  by  E.  Procacdni,  On  the 
rt.  the  basilica  communicates  with 
the  chapel  of  St.  Aquilinus,  founded 
by  Ataulphus,  the  King  of  the  Goths 
land  successor  of  Alaric,  but  who  aspired 
to  the  glory  of  being  the  restorer,  not 
the  destroyer,  of  Rome;  In  this  chapel, 
which,  excepting  the  cUpola,  is  ancient, 


although  entirely  modernised  on  the 
surface,  is  the  remarkable  tomb  of 
Ataulphus,  who  married  Galla  Placidia, 
daughter  of  Theodosius  the  Great, 
whose  part  in  the  history  of  the  de- 
cline of  the  Roman  empire  is  that  of  a 
heroine  of  romance  conquering  her  vic- 
tor by  her  charms.  The  tomb  bears  a 
considerable  resemblance  to  that  of 
his  wife  at  Ravenna,  and,  Hke  hers, 
without  an  inscription,  and  of  very 
plain  workmanship.  The  monogram 
of  Christ  (with  the  descending  dove  over 
a  cross)  and  a  species  of  Runic  knot, 
with  two  lambs,  are  the  only  ornaments. 
In  the  chapel  are  two  very  early  Chris- 
tian mosaics,  perhaps  amongst  the  old- 
est existing  specimens  of  Christian  art : 
they  represent — that  on  the  right,  oup 
Lord  in  the  midst  of  the  Apostles — 
a  fomitain  gushes  from  his  feet  as  an 
emblem  of  the  living  waters ;  and  on 
the  left.  Shepherds  and  their  flocks, 
and  the  Sacrifice  of  Isaac.  It  is 
thought,  and  with  some  probability, 
that  this  part  of  the  building  was  ori- 
ginally one  of  the  chambers  of  the  an- 
cient baths.  The  shrine  of  St.  Aqui- 
linus is  a  rich  specimen  of  pietra-dura 
work.  The  entrance  door  of  the  chapel 
is  of  the  lower  empire,  and  covered 
with  sculpture. 

A  short  way  beyond  this  ch.  is  the 
recently  rebuilt  Porta  Ticinese,  with  its 
flanking  square  towers.  The  central 
arch,  in  marble,  is  ancient  and  fine;  on 
the  side  overlooking  the  canal  is  a 
mediaeval  bas-relief  of  the  Yirgin,  seated 
between  the  protecting  saints  of  the  city. 

8.  Ma/rco.  BuHt  in  1254.  The  fia- 
9ade  isIGt)thic  j  the  interior  was  modern- 
ized in  the  last  centy.  It  contains 
many  paintings  by  Lomctzzo ;  the  best 
is  the  Madonna  and  Infant,  with  saints, 
in  the  3rd  chapel  on  rt.  The  picture 
of  the  Trinity  is  attributed  to  Lttini, 
Over  the  high  altar  is  a  rich  circular 
tabernacle  in  the  form  of  a  Corinthian 
temple.  The  4  large  pictures  on  each 
side  are  by  C.  Procacdni  and  Cerano. 
Near  the  side  door  a  good  painting 
of  a  miracle  of  St.  Mai'k^  in  the  style 
of  Tintoretto,    lii  the  vestibule  opening 


LOMBARDY. 


Botde  21. — Milan — Churches,  • 


199 


out  of  the  rt.-hond  transept  facing  the 
«  Naviglio  are  several  meduBYal  monu- 
ments in  marhle:  one  of  Lanfranco  Sep- 
tala,  the  first  general  of  the  Augustinian 
Order,  who  died  in  1243,  is  attributed 
to  Baldttcdo  of  Pisa — ^heis  represented 
seated  teaching  amidst  his  pupils,  his 
recumbent  statue  on  the  urn  aboye ; 
and  another,  with  good  sculptures,  of 
1344,  to  one  of  the  Aliprandi  family, 
on  which  the  heads  of  the  principal 
personages  have  been  painted  and  gilt ; 
and  a  third  with  a  Crucifixion,  &nd  a 
professor  teaching.  The  fa9ade  has  a 
good  marble  round-arch  entrance,  aboye 
which,  in  3  handsome  brick  niches,  are 
statues ;  the  central  one  of  St.  Mark. 
The  rose  window,  now  bricked  up,  is 
very  Iwrge ;  over  the  two  pointed  win- 
dows, also  bricked  up,  are  some  curious 
low  reUefs  in  brickwork,  and  2  round 
windows  in  the  lateral  gables.  The  ad- 
joining conventual  buildings  belonged 
to  the  Order  of  St.  Augustine. 

Sta.  Maria  del  Carmine.  This  church 
has  imdergone  two  transformations. 
It  was  built  by  the  Carmelites  in  1446, 
in  a  Gothic  style.  In  1660  this 
was  altered,  as  far  as  possible,  into 
Iloman  by  Richini^  and  restored  to  its 
original  state  by  Fizzagalli  in  1835. 
It  contains  two  ancient  Lombard 
pictures,  and  a  Madonna  with  SS. 
BrOch  and  Sebastian  in  fresco,  by  B. 
Luini,  The  chapel  at  the  side  in- 
crusted  with  marbles  and  gilt  stucco 
contains  on  the  walls  two  pictures  by 
Ca/miUo  JProcaccini. 

Sta,*  Maria  presso  San  Celso,  more 
generally  known  as  JJa  Madonna.  A 
very  splendid  building,  one  of  the  rich- 
est churches  of  Milan. 

According  to  tradition,  St.  Ambrose, 
on  the  spot  on  which  he  found  the  re- 
mains of  St.  Nazarus  and  St.  Celsus, 
placed  a  picture  of  the  Madonna, 
who  afterwards,  on  the  30th  Decem- 
ber, 1483,  appeared  there.  The 
miracle  drew  so  many  persons  to 
the  small  church  which  had  been 
built  in  1429  by  Filippo  Maria,  that 
it  was  resolved  to  erect  a  splendid 
ehurch   on  the  spot,    and  this    was 


commenced  in  1491  from  the  plans  of 
Bramawte.  In  front  of  the  ch.  is  a 
handsome  square  court,  3  of  the  sides 
fonned  of  5  Corinthian  arches,  the 
capitals  of  the  half-columns  as  well 
as  of  the  pilasters  in  bronze.  The 
facade  was  begun  by  Bramante,  or,  as 
others  say,  by  Qohho  Solaro,  carried  on 
and  altered  in  1572  by  Martina  Bassi, 
and  completed  by  Alessio,  to  whom 
the  present  design  is  principally  due. 
The  sculptures  of  the  ^fapade  are  re- 
markable. The  two  statues  of  Adam  and 
Eve,  and  the  bas-reliefs  of  the  Annun- 
ciation, the  Adoration  of  the  Magi, 
and  the  Flight  into  Egypt,  are  by 
Stoldo  JJorenziy  a  Florentme  ;  the  rest 
are  by  Annihale  Fontana,  a  Milanese. 
The  capitals  of  the  columns  of  the 
interior  are  of  bronze.  The  rich  organ 
over  the  entrance  has  statues  of  pro- 
phets on  each  side,  by  Fontanay  and 
is  supported  by  caryatides  by  Bassi.  12 
statues  stand  round  the  12-sided  cupola. 
The  pendentives,  and  two  of  the  lu- 
nettes beneath,  were  painted  by  Ajppi- 
ani  in  1797.  Below,  on  the  pilasters 
which  support  the  dome,  is  a  statue 
of  St.  John  the  Baptist,  by  Fontanaf 
and  two  others  by  Lorenzi.  The  4th 
space  is  occupied  by  the  rich  altar  of 
the  Virgin,  on  which  the  miraculous 
painting  is  preserved.  The  altar  is  rich 
in  silver  and  gold,  the  sculptxures  by 
Fontana.  The  wood-work  of  the  stalls 
is  by  Taurini.  According  to  the  ori- 
ginal design  there  should  only  have  been 
2  altars,  but  several  have  been  since 
added.  In  the  1st  recess  on  the  rt.  hand 
is  a  Deposition,  or  Pieta,  by  G.  C.  Fro- 
caccini;  the  smaller  pictures  are  by 
Nuvolone.  Over  the  altar  in  the  next 
recess  is  the  Martyrdom  of  St.  Nazarus 
and  St.  Celsus,  also  by  G.  C.  Frocaccmi. 
They  were  beheaded  at  Milan,  under 
Nero,  A.D.  69.  The  mother  of  San  Naza- 
rus was  Perpetua,  who  had  received  the 
faith  from  St.  Peter.  The  roof  of  the 
nave  is  richly  decorated  with  sunken 
and  gilt  circular  and  octagonal  panels; 
At  the  altar  of  the  Crucifixion  the 
St.  Joseph  is  by  F.  Frocaccini.  The 
Baptism  in  the  Jordan,  4th  recess  on 
rt.,  is  by  Gattdenzio  Ferrari,  In  ' 
principal  chapel  of  the  rt»-hand 


.   Route  21. — MUan — Churches, 


Sect.  III. 


BGpt  are,  a  fine  picture  representing 
St.  Jerome  kneeling  before  the  Infant 
Saviour,  and  a  predella  with  some  small 
pictures,  by  Paris  Bm'dorie.  In  the 
spaces  of  the  circuit  belund  the  choir 
are  several  paintings.  The  Resurrec- 
tion, in  the  Ist,  is  by  A.  Campl.  The 
pictures  in  the  2nd,  3rd,  and  5th  are  by 
Carlo  Urhino,  The  Martyrdom  of  St. 
Catherine  is  by  Cerano.  St.  Jerome, 
in  the  6th,  is  by  Calisto  Piazza.  The 
Conversion  of  St.  Paul,  in  the  7th,  by 
Moretto.  In  the  principal  chapel  of  the 
L  transept  the  Assumption  is  by  C. 
ProcacciHifOnd  in  1st  chapel  on  1.  a  good 
Madonna  and  Child  by  Borgognone, 

Close  to  here  is  the  very  ancient  ch. 
of  St.  Celso  (p.  195). 

Santa  Maria  delle  Grazie.  In  the 
Borgo  delle  Q-razie,  which  leads  to  the 
P.  Magento. — This  church,  with  the 
convent  of  Dominicans  to  which  it 
was  annexed,  was  founded  (1463) 
upon  the  site  of  barracks  belonging  to 
the  troops  of  Francesco  Sforza  I.,  by 
Count  Gasparo  Yimercati,  then  com- 
mander-in-chief of  the  ducal  army.  A 
considerable  portion  of  the  mihtaiy 
buildings  was  converted,  In  the  first  in- 
stance, into  an  habitation  for  the&iars ; 
the  church  was  built  afterwards. 

In  a  small  chapel  in  the  house  of 
Vimercati,  which  is  still  preserved  on 
the  1.  of  the  nave,  was  a  miraculous 
image  of  the  Virgin.  This,  together 
with  his  house,  Vimercati  bestowed  on 
the  Dominicans,  who,  pulling  down  the 
whole,  built  the  present  church  on  its 
site.  The  first  stone  was  laid  in  1464. 
Its  progress  was  slow,  not  having  been 
completed  till  after  1493.  Ludovico 
11  Moro  and  his  wife  Beatrice  were 
liberal  contributors  to  the  church,  and 
she  was  buried  here. 

The  front  is  a  fair  specimen  of  Lom- 
bard Q^otliic  of  brick,  with  ornaments 
in  terracotta.  The  interior  which  con- 
sists of  a  wide  Q^othic  nave,  separated 
from  the  aisles  by  7  pointed  arches, 
surmounted  by  a  groined  vault  j  is  still 
grand.  At  the  end  of  the  nave  rises 
the  cupola  by  Bra/mantey  covered  with 
miserable  modem  chiaro  scuro  paint- 
ing.   In  the  second  chftpel  on  the  rt.  is 


a  St.  John  the  Baptist,  attributed  to 
Francesco  3! Adda.  In  the  fourth  are 
some  noble  frescoes  by  Gaudenzio  Fer- 
rari.  Three  compartments,  dated  1542, 
contain  the  principal  events  of  the  Pas- 
sion of  our  Lord,  but  are  unfortunately 
much  injured.  The  vaulting  of  the 
chapel  i*etains  its  paintings  in  their 
original  full  and  vigorous  tone.  The 
figures  introduced  —  Angels  bearing 
the  instruments  of  the  Passion  — 
are  very  fine.  Gaudenzio  exerted  his 
utmost  skill  in  these  paintings,  ex- 
pecting to  have  an  order  for  the 
altarpiece,  but  Titian  was  preferred, 
his  celebrated  Saviour  crowned  with 
Thorns,  now  in  the  Louvre,  having 
stood  here.  Amongst  the  other  frescoes 
are,  in  the  5th  chapel  on  rt.,  a  Cruci- 
fixion over  the  altar,  and  Angels  on  the 
vaulting,  by  Carlo  di  Crema  :  and  seve- 
ral on  the  roof  of  the  last  chapel  on 
the  rt.,  and  upon  the  vaults  of  the 
choir,  by  the  school  of  Leoncurdo  da 
Vinci.  The  choir  itself  is  richly  painted 
by  MaleottOy  and  has  some  good  in- 
tarsia  work  in  the  stalls.  The  high 
altar  is  a  fine  specimen  of  richly  inlaid 
marble  work. 

In  the  sacristy,  entered  through  the 
small  cloisters,  are  a  series  of  presses 
for  holding  the  priests*  vestments, 
handsomely  painted  with  arabesques 
and  the  shields  of  the  Viscontis  and 
Sforzas.  These  paintings  are  beautiful, 
but  have  been  erroneously  attributed  to 
B.  Luini. 

When  the  friars  were  expelled,  the 
monastery  again  reverted  to  its  primi- 
tive destination  of  military  quarters  ; 
but  part  of  the  conventual  buildings 
not  occupied  by  the  soldiers  continue 
to  communicate  with  the  church.  Two 
deserted  cloisters,  and  the  wall  3  of  the 
sacristy  are  covered  with  portraits  of 
the  celebrities  of  the  order,  and  the 
third  with  scenes  of  events  in  which 
the  Order  played  a  part,  and  the  Glori- 
fication of  St.  Thomas  Aquinas. 

In  the  refectory,  entered  from  the 
outer  cloister,  and  by  a  gate  opening  out 
of  the  corner  of  the  Piazza,  is  the  cele- 
brated Cenacolo,  or  Last  Suppeb,  of 
Leonaedo  da  Vinci.  Perhaps  no  one 
work  of  art  has  had  more  written  abjut 


LoMBARDY,        Route  21. — MUan — Sta,  Maria  ddle  Grazie. 


201 


it,  and  none  deserving  higher  praise. 
*'  This  picture  of  the  Last  Supper  has 
not  only  been  grievouslyinjured  by  time, 
but  parts  are  said  to  have  been  painted 
over  again.  These  niceties  may  be  left 
to  connoisseurs — I  speak  of  it  as  I  felt. 
The  copy  exhibited  in  London  some 
years  ago,  and  the  engraving  by  Mor- 
ghen,  £kre  both  admirable ;  but  in  the 
original  is  a  power  which  neither  of 
those  works  has  attained,  or  even  ap- 
proached."—  Wordsworth. 

The  history  of  the  painting  and  its 
mischances  may  be  briefly  stated.  It 
Tvas  begun  in  1493,  being  among  the 
first  works  which  Leonardo  executed 
under  the  patronage  of  Ludovico  il 
More.  An  anecdote  is  told  by  Vasari 
concerning  the  composition :  that  Leo- 
nardo told  the  Duke  he  must  leave  the 
head  of  the  Saviour  imperfect  because 
he  could  not  reahse  his  conception  of 
the  celestial  beauty  it  ought  to  possess : 
"  Aiicor  gli  mancava  due  teste  da  fare, 
quella  di  Cristo,  della  quale  non  voleva 
cercare  in  terra  e  non  poteva  tanto  pen- 
sare,  che  nella  imaginazione  gH  paresse 
poter  concepire  quella  belezza  e  celeste 
grazia,  che  dovette  essere  in  quella  della 
divinitJb  incamata."  And  yet  tliis  very 
head,  which  Leonardo  is  so  said  to  have 
left  imperfect,  is  now  one  of  the  finest 
portions  of  the  whole.  Leonardo  em- 
ployed sixteen  years  upon  the  work ; 
but  he  used  a  new  process,  which 
proved  its  ruin.  The  ground  is  plas- 
ter, impregnated  with  mastic  or  pitch, 
melted  in  by  means  of  a  hot  iron.  This 
ground  he  covered  with  a  species  of 
priming,  composed  of  a  mixture  of 
white  lead  and  some  earthy  colours, 
which  took  a  fine  polish,  but  from 
which  the  oil  colour  naked  ofi". 

The  materials  with  which  the  wall 
was  built  are  of  a  very  bad  quahty, 
rendering  it  susceptible  of  injury  from 
damp.  As  early  as  1500  the  refectory 
seems  to  have  been  flooded,  owing  to 
its  low  situation.  The  vicinity  of  the 
kitchen  smoked  the  painting,  which  ex- 
hibited early  symptoms  of  decay.  Ar- 
menini,  who  saw  it  about  50  years  after 
it  was  painted,  said  it  was  then  half 
spoiled,  and  Scanelli,  who  saw  it  in 

J^.'jRai^y— 1866. 


1642,  speaking  hyperbolically,  observed 
that  it  was  then  difficult  to  discover 
the  subject.  In  1652  the  monks,  vnsh- 
ing  to  enlarge  the  door,  cut  away  Christ's 
feet  and  those  of  some  of  the  Apostles, 
and,  by  shaking  the  wall  in  cutting  it 
away,  brought  off*  parts  of  the  surface. 
In  1726,  Bellotti,  an  indifferent  artist 
of  much  pretension,  who  painted  the 
fresco  over  the  door  of  the  adjoining 
church,  persuaded  the  monks  he  was 
possessed  of  a  secret  method  which 
would  entirely  restore  the  faded  paint- 
ing. He  concealed  himself  behind 
planks,  and  painted  it  all  over.  In 
1770,  Mazza,  a  wretched  dauber,  was 
employed  to  go  over  the  whole  of  it 
again.  The  three  heads,  however,  to 
the  extreme  right  of  the  spectator, 
escaped,  in  consequence  of  the  outcry 
which  the  proceedmg  raised. 

When  Napoleon  was  at  Milan  in 
1796  he  visited  the  refectory ;  and,'  sit- 
ting on  the  ground,  he  wrote,  placing 
his  pocket-book  upon  his  knee,  an  or- 
der that  the  spot  should  be  exempted 
from  being  occupied  by  the  miUtary, 
This  order  was  disobeyed,  and  the  room 
was  employed  as  a  cavalry  stable,  and 
afterwards  as  a  hay  magazine.  The 
door  was  then  for  some  time  built 
up  in  order  effectively  to  exclude 
the  military.  In  1800,  owing  to  the 
drain  being  blocked  up,  and  rain 
falling  for  15  days,  the  refectory  was 
flooded  to  a  considerable  depth.  In 
1801,  on  the  instance  of  Bossi,  the 
secretary  of  the  Academy,  it  was  re- 
opened, and  in  1807  the  Viceroy  Eu- 
gene caused  the  refectory  to  be  repaired 
and  drauied,  and  everything  done  which 
might  in  any  way  tend  to  preserve  the 
remains  of  the  painting.  It  is,  how- 
ever, now  again  scaling  off^,  not  very 
rapidly,  but  incessantly ;  and  tliis  is, 
perhaps,  the  last  generation  whose  eyes 
will  behold  its  beauties,  even  yet  so 
transcendent  in  then*  irreparable  decay. 
Professor  Barozzi  of  Parma  is  said  to 
have  discovered  a  means  of  preventing 
the  painting  flaking  off*,  which  he  has 
only  yet  applied  to  a  small  portion  of  it. 

The  late  Professor  PhiUips,  K.A.,  in 
1825,  "examined  its  condition  with  care- 


202 


Eoute  21. — MUan — Churches, 


Sect.  III. 


fill  and  minute  attention,  and  could  with 
difficulty  find  a  portion  of  its  original 
sur&oe.  The  little  I  did  find  exhibited 
an  exceedingly  well  prepared  ground, 
smooth  in  the  highest  degree,  and  the 
painting  upon  it  free,  firm,  and  pure." 

*'  Till  tlus  time  all  paintings  on  walls 
had  been  wrought  in  fresco ;  but  oil 
painting,  which  had  become  known 
and  practised  in  smaller  works,  better 
suited  da  Vinci's  mode  of  proceeding, 
as  it  admits  of  retouching  or  repeat- 
ing: and,  unfortunately,  he  adopted 
it  here.  He  was  not,  however,  the 
first  who  had  employed  it  in  that 
way;  Domenico  Yeneziano,  and  one 
or  two  others,  had  made  tempting 
examples  for  him,  and  thus  led  to  a 
result  so  un&bYOUrable  to  his  reputation. 

"It  would  appear  that  the  vehicle 
which  he  employed,  whatever  it  were, 
had  no  imion  with  the  ground,  and 
therefore  the  surface  cracked;  and 
whenever  damp  found  its  way  through 
those  cracks,  and  between  the  painting 
and  the  ground,  small  parts  of  the 
foriner  were  thrown  off,  till  at  length 
large  blotches  were  formed,  exhibiting 
the  white  preparation  beneath.  These 
have  at  various  times  been  filled  up; 
and  it  had  been  well  if  with  that  filling 
up  had  rested  the  efforts  of  the  re- 
storers. But  their  attempts  to  match 
the  remaining  colours  &ilmg,  as  I  sup- 
pose, they  have  taken  the  shorter  me- 
thod of  cure,  by  repainting  the  whole 
surface  of  the  part  they  were  required 
to  mend ;  so  that,  at  the  present  time, 
little  or  nothing,  it  may  be  said,  re- 
mains of  Leonardo,  save  the  composi- 
tion and  the  forms  generally. " 

"  Of  the  heads,  there  is  not  one  un- 
touched, and  many  are  totally  ruined. 
Fortimately,  that  of  the  Saviour  is  the 
most  pure,  being  but  faintly  retouched ; 
and  it  presents  even  yet  a  most  perfect 
image  of  that  divine  character.  Whence 
arose  the  story  of  its  not  having  been 
finished  it  is  now  difficult  to  conceive ; 
and  the  history  itself  varies  among  the 
writers  who  have  mentioned  it.  But 
perhaps  a  man  so  scrupulous  as  Leon- 
ardo in  the  definement  of  character  and 
expression,  and  so  ardent  in  his  pur- 


suit of  them,  might  have  expressed  him- 
self unsatisfied,  where  all  others  could 
see  only  perfection." — Fhillips*  Lec- 
tures, p.  65. 

"That  part  which  is  to  the  rt. 
hand  of  the  large  dish,  imder  the 
figure  of  our  Saviour,  including  an 
orange,  a  glass  of  wine,  a  portion  of 
two  loaves,  and  a  large  piece  of  the 
tablecloth  just  about  and  imder  these 
objects,  are,  in  my  opinion,  the  only 
part  of  this  great  work  which  have 
been  untouched.  These  parts  have 
all  the  beauty  of  finish  to  be  found  in 
da  Vinci's  oil  pictures." — J.  C.  M, 

In  his  treatment  of  the  subject,  Leon- 
ardo adhered  to  the  traditional  style  of 
composition,  handed  down  from  an 
early  period,  and  pecuharly  adapted  to 
the  position  chosen  for  the  picture. 
Placed  at  the  upper  end  of  the  refec- 
tory, down  the  sides  of  which  are 
ranged  the  tables  of  the  monks,  it  con- 
nects itself  with  their  circle,  while  it  is, 
at  the  same  time,  exalted  above  them 
by  its  elevated  position  and  the  greater 
size  of  its  figures.  "  This  mode  of  com- 
position, which  betrayed  the  earlier 
artists  into  a  disagreeably  stiff  and 
monotonous  representation,  and  seems 
so  unfavourable  to  the  development  ot 
an  animated  action,  is  here  enUvened 
in  the  most  varied  manner,  while 
a  most  naturally  imagined  connec- 
tion reduces  it  to  an  harmonious 
whole.  The  figure  of  Christ  forms  the 
centre  ;  he  sits  in  a  tranquil  attitude, 
a  little  apart  from  the  others ;  the  dis- 
ciples are  ranged  three  and  three  toge- 
ther, and  they  form  two  separate 
groups  on  each  side  of  the  Saviour. 
These  four  groups  in  their  general 
treatment  indicate  a  certain  correspon- 
dence of  emotion  and  a  harmony  in 
movement,  united,  however,  with  the 
greatest  variety  in  gesture  and  in  the 
expression  of  the  heads." — Kngler. 

The  figures  of  the  Apostles  are  thus 
placed.  The  standing  figure  to  the 
extreme  left  of  the  spectator,  and  on  the 
right  of  the  Saviour,  is  St.  Bartholomew; 
then  they  come  in  order  thus:  St. 
James  the  Less,  St.  Andrew,  Judas,  St. 
Peter,  St.  John.     On  the  left  of  our 


LOMBARDY. 


Route  2 1 . — Milan —  Churches, 


203 


Xord,  beginning  with  the  figure  next  to 
him,  are  St.  Thomas  (with  the  forefinger 
raised) ,  St .  James  the  G-reater,  St.  Phihp, 
St.  Matthew,  St.  Thaddffius,  St.  Simon. 
"The  well-known  words  of  Christ, 
*  One  of  you  shall  betray  me,'  have 
caused  the  hveUest  emotion.  #  *  * 
The  two  groups  to  the  left  of  Christ 
are  full  of  impassioned  excitement,  the 
figures  in  the  first  turning  to  the  Sa- 
viour, those  in  the  second  speaking  to 
each  other ;  horror,  astonishment,  sus- 
picioQ,  doubt,  alternate  in  the  various 
expressions.  On  the  other  hand,  still- 
ness, low  whispers,  indirect  observa- 
tion, are  the  prevailing  expressions  in 
the  groups  on  the  right.  In  the  middle 
of  the  first  group  sits  the;  betrayer, 
a  cunning  sharp  profile :  he  looks  up 
hastily  to  Christ,  as  if  speaking  the 
words  *  Rabbi,  is  it  I  ? '  while  true  to 
the  scriptm^al  account,  his  left  hand  and 
Christ's  right  hand  approach,  as  if  im- 
consciously,  the  dish  that  stands  be- 
tween them." — Kugler, 

Copies  have  been  at  various  times 
made  of  this  celebrated  work :  the  best 
of  which  is,  one  by  Marco  d'Oggiono,  a 
pupil  of  L.  da  Vinci,  now  preserved  in 
the  Q-allery  of  the  Academy  at  Brera. 
Another  by  Bianchi,  including  the  upper 
half  of  the  figures  only,  made  by  order 
of  Cardinal  F.  Borromeo,  is  in  the  Am- 
brosian  Library.  Bossi,  by  direction 
of  the  Viceroy  Eugene,  in  1807,  made 
with  great  care  a  cartoon  drawing 
of  the  size  of  the  original,  and  after- 
wards an  oil  painting,  from  which 
a  mosaic  was  executed.  This  mosaic 
is  now  at  Vienna;  the  cartoon  is 
in  the  Leuchtenberg  gallery  at  Mu- 
nich 5  the  oil-}5ainting  in  the  Brera. 

At  the  opposite  end  of  the  refec- 
tory is  a  paintittg  which,  anywhere 
else,  would  attract  great  attention, 
but  which  is  generally  overlooked 
in  consequence  of  its  vicinity  to  the 
Cenacolo.  It  is  a  very  large  and  well- 
preserved  fresco  of  the  Crucifixion  by 
Mont(yrfano,  with  his  name  and  the 
date  1495.  It  contains  a  great  number 
of  figures  grouped  without  any  confu- 
sion, one  of  the  best  conceptions  of  a 
mxdtitude  we  have  almost  ever  seen, 


and  full  of  merit.  The  good  condition 
of  this  painting  causes  one  the  more  to 
regret  that  Leonardo  did  not  employ 
fresco.  His  error  is  very  curiously  ex- 
emplified on  this  same  wall.  You  see 
two  white  spaces  in  the  comers.  Here 
Leonardo  painted  in  oil  the  portraits  of 
the  donors  of  the  Cenacolo,  but  only  a 
trace  of  the  figures  can  be  discerned. 

Sta.  Maria  delta  Passione,   Opposite 
to  the  end  of  the  Stradone  deUa  Pas- 
sione,  close  to  the  Archinto  palace,  and 
between    the   Porta   di   Venezia.   and 
Porta  Vittoria,  stands   this  ch.,  built 
in  1485.    Tlie  fine  cupola  was  raised  in 
1530,  from  the  design  of  Solaro.     Its 
height  from  the  pavement  is  160  ft. 
The  fa9ade  was  added  in  1692.     It  is 
heavy  and   overloaded :   upon   it    are 
3    fine    high-rehefs,    representing   the 
Scourgiug  of  our  Lord — the  Crown- 
ing  with  Thorns — the  Entombment. 
The  interior  is  divided  into  a  nave  and 
two  aisles,  and  the  original  design  of 
a  Grreek  cross  has  been  altered  into  a 
Latin   one,  with   8   chapels   in   each 
aisle.       On    the   rt.    at   the    end     of 
the  transept,  is  a  Crucifixion,  by  G, 
Campi;  the  roof  above  it  is  painted  in 
fresco,  by  his  brother  Antonio;   near 
this  is  the  tomb  of  the  two   Biraghi, 
Daniel,   Bishop  of  Mytelene,  on  the 
urn  above,  Francis  below  j  a  work  of 
Andrea  Fusina.    It  is  the  only  speci- 
men which  can  certainly  be  attributed 
to   this  artist,   almost  unknown,  but 
who  was   amongst  the  best  sculptors 
of  Lombardy.   Cicognara,  speaking  of 
this  monument,  says,  "  its  general  pro- 
portions,  the  grace  of  its  ornaments, 
the  beauty  of  the  several   parts,   all 
are  in  the  best  taste  and  the  utmost 
elegance."     On   the  1.   the  baptistery 
contains  the  supper  of  San  Carlo,  by 
Daniel  Crespi;  the  first  chapel,  a  St. 
Ubaldo,  by  Bianchi ;  the  fifth  on  1.,  a  St, 
Francis,  by   Camillo  Frocaccini;   the 
last,  Christ  going  to  Calvary,  a  work  of 
the  school  of  L.  da  Vinci»  In  the  chapel 
of  the  1.  transept  is    a  Last   Supper 
by  Qaudenzio  Ferrari,  and  Christ  in 
the  Q-arden,  one  of  the  best  works  of 
8aJmeggia,    The  Flagellation,  the  Be- 

1.2 


204 


Houte  21. — MSan — Churches, 


Sect.  III. 


fiurrection,  and  the  long  pictures  on  the 
pilasters  of  the  high  fdtar  are  also  by 
him.  Much  expense  has  been  bestowed 
upon  the  high  altar ;  the  ciborium  is  of 
pietra  dura ;  and  behind  it  is  a  paint- 
ing, almost  a  miniature,  upon  marble, 
by  Camillo  Frocaccini,  representing  the 
Deposition  of  our  Lord.  The  principal 
ornament,  however,  is  the  altarpiece, 
a  IHetdf  by  JB.  Luini,  in  his  first 
manner.  The  doors  of  the  organ  are 
painted  in  chiar^-oscuro  by  Crespi  and 
Carlo  Urbino.  Those  on  the  rt.-hand 
side  are  by  Urhino.  Bv  Crespi  also 
are  the  small  pictures  of  the  Four  Doc- 
tors of  the  Church,  and  the  8  pic- 
tures fixed  to  the  great  pillars,  and 
representing  the  History  of  our  Lord's 
Passion.  The  interior  of  the  apse  is 
painted  by  Nuvolone.  The  sacristy  is 
a  noble  apartment.  In  the  lunettes  are 
paintings  of  saints  and  prelates  who 
have  belonged  to  the  order,  worthy  of 
Borgognone. 

The  monastery  connected  with  this 
church  has,  since  1808,  been  occupied 
by  the  Conservatorio  di  Musica,  the 
most  celebrated  training  school  in  Italy 
for  theatrical  music. 

San  Maurizio  Ma^giore^  in  the  Corso 
di  Porta  Vercellina,  called  also  the 
Monasterio  Maggiore,  on  account  of  its 
rich  endowments  and  the  numerous 
privileges  bestowed  upon  it  and  the 
adjoining  convent  by  King  Desiderius 
and  the  Emjoeror  Otho.  It  is  said 
to  stand  upon  the  site  of  a  temple 
of  Jupiter,  whence  the  columns  sup- 
porting the  tribune  of  Sant'  Am- 
brogio  were  brought,  and  to  have  been 
one  of  the  three  buildings  exempted  by 
Barbarossa  from  the  general  destruc- 
tion of  Milan.  Of  the  building  of  that 
early  period,  however,  few  tracesremain, 
except  in  the  two  towers,  the  one  round 
the  other  square  (used  as  prisons  for 
some  of  the  Lombard  martyrs),  which 
are  embellished  with  some  coarse  paint- 
ings and  niches.  One  of  the  towers 
is  traditionally  asserted  to  have  been 
of  the  300  erected  by  the  Romans 
which  defended  the  city ;  a  frag- 
ment of  Roman  wall  was  discovered 
in  the  monastery.     The  present  con- 


struction is  chiefly  the  work  of  Dolce- 
bono    (1497-1506),    a  pupil   of    Bra- 
mante ;     the  fa<^de  is  by    JPerovano 
(1565).     The  church  is  divided  into 
two  parts  by  a    screen   reaching    to 
the  height  of  the  upper  cornice.     The 
half  which  serves  for  public  worship 
is  arranged  in  the  same  manner   as 
the  inner  church,  which  belonged  ex- 
clusively to  the  monastery.     Ghreat  ele- 
gance of  proportion  is  displayed  in  a 
series  of  four  galleries,  forming  a  kind  of 
triforium  above  a  row  of  smidl  chapels, 
while  the  triforium  runs  round   the 
whole  church.    The  architecture  is  of 
a    refined  order,    and    Bramantesque. 
The  screen  dividing  the  two  portions 
of  the  church  is  painted  on  both  sides. 
On  the  outer  one,  or  towards  the  ch.  for 
the  use  of  the  public,  the  whole  of  the 
paintings  are  attributed  to  B.  Luini,  In 
the  two  lower  compartments  on  each 
side  of  the  high  altar  are  4  female 
figures  of  saints,  with  angels  bearing 
torches  between ;  above  in  lunettes  are 
kneeling  portraits  of  the  foimders,  with 
their  patron  saints,  and  still  higher  up 
the  Martyrdom  of  St.  Maurice  and  St. 
Sigismund.      Between  the  latter  the 
Assumption  of  the  Virgin  with  nu- 
merous figures  below,  round  her  empty 
tomb.    The  1st  chapel  on  rt.  is  painted 
by  Gnocchi ;  the  2nd  has  three  saints 
on  the  side  walls  (Rooh,  Lawrence,  and 
G^eorge),  and  FuUi,  on  each  side  of  the 
modem  barbarous  altar,  with  bunches 
of  fruit  attributed  to  Luini;  the  3rd 
chapel,  perhaps  the  most  interesting 
of  the  whole,  is  entirely  painted  by 
Luini,  representing  Christ  bound  to 
the  column  between  St.  Catherine  and 
St.  Stephen,  and  the  founder  of  the 
chapel  kneeling  before  the  former,  on 
the  side  walls  her  Martyrdom,  and  on 
the  vaults  angels  bearing  the  instru- 
ments of  the  Passion ;  on  the  1.  side  in 
2nd  chapel  is  St.  Stephen  preaching 
and  put  to  death,  by  Aurelio  Luini; 
in  the  3rd,  the  Birth  and  Martyrdom 
of   St    John    the   Baptist,  with  the 
Baptism  in  the  Jordan,  by  the  same 
painter;   and  in  the  4th,   a  Descent 
from  the  Cross,  by  pupils  of  JB.  Luini, 
The  inner  ch.  or  choir:  — the  lower 


LOMBARDY. 


Route  21. — MUan — Churches. 


205 


part  of  the  screen  has  been  con- 
Terted  into  a  chapel;  in  the  lunettes 
are  paintings  of  Christ  mocked,  his 
Crucifixion,  and  Deposition  in  the  se- 
pulchre ;  and  on  the  side- walls,  our  Sa- 
viour in  the  Gktrden,  with  3  sleeping 
Apostles,  through  which  a  door  has 
been  barbarously  cut,  and  the  Besur- 
reetion,  almost  invisible,  admirable 
works  of  J?.  Luini;  the  Almighty 
with  the  4  EvangeUsts,  and  Angels 
singing,  are  probably  by^  Borgognone^ 
as  also  the  beautiful  half-figures  in  the 
gallery  that  runs  round  the  church. 
The  3  lunettes  on  the  upper  part  of 
the  screen  have  the  Last  Supper,  the 
Baptism  in  the  Jordan,  and  the  Besur- 
rection^but  can  be  seen  with  difficulty, 
the  Besurrection  especially.  The  gal- 
lery, which  is  a  continuation  of  that 
in  the  outer  ch.,  is  covered  with  ara- 
besques and  paintings,  and  is  very 
beautiful. 

San  Nazaro  Maggiore,  in  the  Corso 
di  Porta  Bomana.  This  basilica  was 
founded  by  St.  Ambrose  (a.d.  382),  and 
dedicated  to  the  12  Apostles.  It  was 
burnt  in  1075,  enlarged  upon  its  being 
rebuilt,  and  again  by  San  Carlo :  the 
two  principal  chapels  were  added  in 
1653.  The  most  interesting  part  of  the 
ch.  is  thevestibule  by  which  it  is  entered. 
This  is  the  sepulchral  cliapel  of  the 
Trivulzis,  and  contains  an  interesting 
series  of  monuments  of  that  illustrious 
fjEimily.  They  are  remarkably  simple, 
figures  as  large  as  life,  in  the  armour, 
dress,  and  garb  of  thie  times,  true  por- 
traits in  marble,  resting  upon  their  sar- 
cophagi in  stucco. — ^Antonio  (d.  14<54), 
the  father  of  the  great  Trivulzio,  who, 
upon  the  death  of  the  last  Sforza,  turned 
the  dubious  scale  in  favour  of  the  Vis- 
contis. — ^The  great  Gian'  Griacomo  (died 
1518),  Marquess  of  Vigevano,  his  laurel- 
crowned  head  pillowed  upon  his  corslet, 
with  the' inscription  "Johannes  Jaco- 
bus Magnus  TrivultiusAntonii  filius,  qui 
nunquam  quievit  quiescit,  tace."  This 
was  the  Trivulzio  who,  banished  from 
Milan,retumedatthe  head  of  the  French 
army,  and  may  be  said  to  have  been  the 
main  cause  of  the  ruin  of  his  country. 
Those  who  had  profited  by  his  treason 


respected  him  not:  the  old  warrior 
died  broken-hearted,  at  the  age  of 
80,  and  was  buried,  as  the  JVench 
say,  at  Bourg  de  Chartres,  near  Mont- 
Ihery.  He  was  the  founder  of  the 
chapel,  as  appears  irom.  an  inscription 
yet  remaining.  —  The  two  wives  of 
the  Marquis,  Margherita  Colleoni,  died 
1488,  and  Beatrice  d'Avalos,  sister 
of  the  Marquis  of  Pescara. — Gian' 
Nicolo,  died  1512,  the  only  legitimate 
son  of  the  Marquis ;  as  zealous  as  his 
father  in  the  interests  of  France,  and 
who,  had  he  lived,  would  probably  have 
equalled  him  in  mihtary  fame. — Paula 
Gonzaga,  the  wife  of  GHannicolo  ;  Ippo- 
lita,  Liiigi,  and  Margarita — maiden, 
boy,  and  infjsmt,  cliildren  of  Giannieolo, 
all  lying  side  by  side ;  and,  lastly,  Gian* 
Francesco,  died  1573,  the  son  of  Gian- 
nieolo, who  served  both  Francis  I.  and 
Chailes  Y.,  changing  sides  as  was  most 
convenient  to  him.  It  was  he  by 
whom  these  monuments  were  erected, 
as  commemorated  by  him  in  an  in- 
scription which  seems  to  apply  to 
the  whole  series.  All  the  monuments, 
however,  are  cenotaphs,  the  bodies 
being  deposited  in  the  vaults  below.  The 
ch.  of  S.  Nazaro,  in  the  form  of  a  Greek 
cross,  is  said  to  have  been  designed  by 
Bramante^  and  altogether  is  one  of  the 
most  remarkable  of  its  kind  in  Milan. ' 
On  the  cupola  and  four  spandrils  are 
frescoes  by  Vitale  Sola.  There  is  a 
copy  of  Gaudenzio  Ferrari's  Cena,  by 
Lanmi.  A  good  fresco,  representing 
the  Martyrdom  of  St.  Catherine,  in 
the  oratory  of  St.  Caterina  deUa  Buota, 
adjoining  the  church,  was  executed  by 
the  same  painter  in  1546.  In  the  prin- 
cipal compartment,  near  the  pilaster  of 
an  arch,  on  the  rt.  hand,  he  has  intro- 
duced his  portrait  between  those  of 
Graudenzio  Ferrari  and  Delia  Cerva. 

S,  FaolOf  on  the  S.  side  of  the  open 
space  in  front  of  St.  Eufemia.  The 
side  towards  the  piazza,  coupled  with 
Corinthian  pillars  above  Doric,  pro- 
jecting from  the  wall,  is  from  the  de- 
sign of  Alessio,  The  front,  which  is 
in  bad  taste,  has  a  bas-relief  over  the 
door,  la  Madonna  di  Loreto  in  the 
tympanum,  and  some  long  perpendi- 


206 


EoiUe  21. — Mtlan — Churches. 


Sect.  ni. 


oular  compartmentB  with  emblems, 
beautifully  executed.  The  interior  is 
divided  transversely  by  a  screen,  as  at 
S.  Maurizio,  rising  as  high  as  the  cor- 
nice, the  further  part  being  occupied  by 
the  Augustinian  nuns  called  the  Angeli- 
che. 

San*  Pietro  in  Gessate  (in  a  street 
leading  from  the  Corso  di  Porta  Tosa 
to  theBorgo  of  the  same  name),  so  called 
from  the  Gessate  family,  who  here 
founded  a  convent  for  the  order  of  the 
Umiliati.  The  interior,  consisting  of 
a  nave  and  two  aisles,  with  5  pointed 
arches  supported  on  each  side  by  mono- 
lith columns  of  grey  granite,  the  groin- 
ed roof  preserves  its  Gothic  style  un- 
altered. The  arrangement  of  the  choir 
dates  from  1640.  In  the  third  chapel 
on  the  rt.  is  a  Madonna,  with  the  infant 
Saviour  by  her  side,  of  I/uini.  J).  Crespi 
painted  the  S.  Mauro,  to  whom  persons 
afllicted  with  the  sciatica  performed 
pilgrimages  in  this  church.  The  actions 
of  the  saint  on  the  side  walls  are  by 
Moncalvo,  The  frescoes  in  the  2nd 
chapel  on  the  1.,  representing  the 
Marriage  and  Death  of  the  Virgin,  are 
attributed  to  JB.  Zenale  and  B.  da 
T^raviglio,  In  the  altar  of  the  3rd  chapel 
on  1.,  a  Madonna,  in  the  centre  an  An- 
cona  in  6  compartments  of  very  ancient 
paintings,  is  by  BramanUno  or  Vincen- 
zio  Foppa.  Some  frescoes  attributed 
to  Zenale  or  Bernardo  da  Treveglio^ 
have  been  lately  discovered  in  the  ch. 
of  St.  Jerome,  which  forms  the  L-hand 
transept.  This  ch.  contained  several 
good  sepulchral  monuments  before  its 
desecration  in  1797.  The  most  re- 
markable, to  members  of  the  Borromeo 
family,  by  Bambaja,  have  been  re- 
moved to  the  family  chapel  in  the 
Isola  Bella:  one  with  a  recumbent 
figure,  the  flesh  of  white,  the  drapery 
of  red  marble,  near  the  high  altar, 
is  curious.  The  monastery  adjoining 
this  church  was  erec^d  in  1509,  and 
is  in  the  style  of  the  school  of  Bra- 
mante :  it  has  2  cloisters,  with  Doric 
columns,  and  arches  with  a  frieze  of 
brick.  It  is  now  used  as  an  Orphan 
Asylum. 

San  Satlro,  in  the  Contrada  del  Fal- 


cone, nearly  surrounded  by  houses,  is 
without  feu^ade  or  choir,  but  is  a  veiy 
graceful  building  inside.  The  original 
church  was  built  by  Archbishop  An- 
spertus  on  the  site  of  his  own  house, 
in  the  9th  centy. :  the  only  remains  of 
this  is  the  chapel  in  the  1.  transept, 
with  four  larger  and  several  smaller 
columns  of  diflerent  materials  and  di- 
mensions, and  with  different  capitals,' 
all  taken  from  earlier  buildings,  as  was 
then  usual.  The  present  church  was 
erected  about  1480.  It  was  intended 
to  be  in  the  form  of  a  Latin  cross ; 
but,  from  the  space  being  occupied 
by  the  <adjoining  street,  the  choir  is 
wanting,  and  its  place  is  supphed  by  a 
perspective  painted  on  the  wall.  This 
painting  is  as  old  as  the  church,  but  it 
has  lately  been  retouched  and  refreshed. 
It  can  hardly  be  called  a  work  of  art, 
but,  as  a  specimen  of  perspective,  the 
deception  is  marvellous.  Opening  out 
of  the  rt.  aisle,  near  the  entrance  to  the 
ch.  is  the  elegant  octagonal  sacristy, 
by  BramantCf  restored  in  1857.  The 
bas-reHefs,  arabesques,  and  sculptures, 
which  are  very  beautiful,  are  by  Cara- 
dosso. 

S,  Sehastiano  has  a  good  painting  of 
the  martyrdom  of  the  patron  saint  by 
BramanUno. 

San  Sepolcro  (close  to  the  Ambro- 
sian  library)  retains  its  ancient  towers 
buUt  in  the  11th  century ;  the  rest  is 
modem.  Over  the  door  is  a  celebrated 
painting  hjBramantino — a  Dead  Christ 
mourned  by  the  Marys  —  but  it  is 
so  shut  up  in  glass  and  grating,  to  pro- 
tect it  from  the  weather,  that  it  is  diffi- 
cult to  examine  it.  This  church  was 
the  centre  of  the  congregation  of  the 
ObJati,  a  body  of  priests  founded  by 
San  Carlo,  in  order  that  they  might, 
by  stricter  lives  and  more  exemplary 
performance  of  their  duties,  cheek  the 
Protestant  Reformation.  The  congre- 
gation has  ceased  to  exist. 

S.  Simplidano.  St.  Ambrose  erected 
a  chapel  here,  over  the  burial-place  of 
some  saints,  and  S.  Simplicianus  de- 
posited in  it  the  bodies  of  Sisinius, 
Martirius,  and  Alexander.  The  Milan- 
ese, when  they  defeated  Barbarossa  at 


LOMBARDY. 


Route  2\,^-MUan — Churches, 


207 


Iiegncmo^  believed  that  they  were  as- 
sisted   by    these    martyrs,    and    that 
three   doves,   flying  firom  their  altar, 
perched  themselves  upon  the  mast  of 
the  Caroccio.     In  consequence  of  this, 
a  fine  Lombard  church  was  built  here, 
which,  after  having  undergone   some 
alterations    in    1582,    in    a    different 
style,  has  been  recently  restored,  pre- 
serving the  Lombard  portal.     In  the 
choir  is  a  Coronation  of  the  Virgin  in 
fresco,  by  Borgognone,   a  remarkable 
work  for  the  simpUcity  and  grace  of  the 
figures,  approaching  to  the  style  of  Fra 
Aiigelico  ;  it  has  been  much  injured. 

Sar^  Stefcmo  in  Brolio^  in  the  Piazza 
del  Verzaro,  the  market  for  vegetables 
("verzee")  and  fish,  a  very  ancient  ba- 
silica, rebuilt  by  Archbishop  Visconti, 
the  successor  of  San  Carlo,  and  com- 
pleted by  Cardinal  Federigo  Borromeo. 
It  was  also  called  St,  Zaccaria  alia 
Ruota,  from  a  species  of  wheel  of  terra- 
cottta,  with  the  inscription  ^^Rota  san- 
guinia  Jidelimny "  formerly  fixed  against 
a  pillar,  and  afterwards  deposited  in  the 
sacristy,  but  recently  again  concealed 
or    removed.      Near  the  piUar  is    a 
species  of  rude  urn,  now  buried  in  the 
pavement  up  to  its  rim,  and  covered 
with  a  grating.      Tliis  is  called  the 
"Pietra  degli  innocenti."    "Who   the 
innocents  were  is  a  subject  of  great  dis- 
cussion, and  so  also  with  respect  to 
the  "  rota:"  some  say  it  commemorates 
martyrdoms  in  the  earliest  ages  of  the 
Church.  Inthe  modem  history  of  Milan 
an  important  fact  is  connected  with  the 
"Pietra   dcgli    innocenti"     Hard  by 
perished  one  to  whom  that  name  did  not 
apply,  Gbleazzo  Maria  Sforza,  slain  De- 
cember 26, 1476,  by  the  three  conspira- 
tors— Carlo  Visconti,  GWrolamo  Olgiato, 
and   GKovann*   Andrea    Lampugnano. 
They  were  instigated  by  Cola  Montano, 
a  man  of  letters,  who,  fanaticised  by 
the  study  of  ancient  history,  urged  his 
disciples  —  and    he  had    many  —  to 
imitate  the  examples  of  those  who  had 
X)erished  in  the  extirpation  of  tyramiy. 
This  church  was  judiciously  restored 
in  1829.    The  rich  Corinthian  chapel 
to  the  rt.   of  the  high  altar  bmlt  by 
Cardinal  Trivulzio,  governor  of  MUan 


(1656),  was  restored  in  1844.  The 
baptistery  has  been  lately  fitted  up  with 
modem  stained  glass  by  Oldrino,  a  ma- 
nufacturer in  MUan.  The  ancient  cam- 
panile having  fallen  down,  the  present 
one  was  built  in  1642. 

San  Tomaso  in  terra  mala,  or  terra 
amara.  The  date  of  this  church  is  1580, 
but  since  much  altered.    The  hexastyle 
Ionic  portico  was  added  in  1825.    It 
contains  a  Magdalen  by  A.  Luini,  a  S. 
Carlo  by  G.   C.  Procaccini,  and  a  St. 
Anthony  by  the  younger  SdbatellL  It 
is  said  to  derive  its  name  from  one 
of  those  acts  so  characteristic  of  the 
tyrants   of  Italy.     The  priest  of  the 
parish  had  refused  to  read  the  funeral 
service  over  one  of  his  poor  parish- 
ioners, unless  his  widow  would  pre- 
viously   pay    the    fees.     The  woman 
burst  out  in  loud  lamentations ;  when 
Q-iovanni   Visconti,  riding  by,  asked 
the  cause  of  the  disturbance. — "  Bury 
him  gratis,"  exclaimed  he  to  the  priest, 
who  complied ;  but,  like  the  choristers 
in  the  ballad  of  the  Old  Woman  of 
Berkeley,  repeated  the  dirge  with  a 
quaver  of  consternation.    And,  when 
the  service  was  finished,  "  Now,"  said 
Visconti,  "  throw  him  in."     And  the 
miserable  priest  was  buried  alive  with 
his  parishioner.     The  story  adds  that, 
as  they  were  casting  the  earth  over  the 
priest,  he  cried  out,    "Come    questa 
terra  h  amara!"  from  which  the  church 
derives  its  present  name. 

San  Vittore  al  Corpo,  in  the  Stra- 
done  di  San  Vittore:  formerly  the 
Basilica  Porziana,  vying  in  dignity 
with  the  cathedral.  According  to  the 
traditions  of  the  Church  of  Rome,  an 
early  convert,  the  Senator  Oldanus, 
had  two  sons,  Portius  and  Faustus; 
the  latter  bmlt  the  basihca,  which  was 
incorporated  afterwards  in  the  Am- 
brosian.  The  former  built  this  basi- 
lica, from  him  called  Porziana.  It  was 
the  scene  of  the  Emperor  Theodosius' 
exclusion  from  the  church  by  St.  Am- 
brose, and  of  the  latter's  victory  over 
the  Arians,  and  of  the  introduction  of 
the  canto  altemo  of  the  Ambrosian 
rite.  At  that  time  it  was  also  known 
by  the  name  of  the  ^^tadlica  extr^ 


208 


Boute  21. — Milan — San  Gotardo. 


Sect.  m. 


murana"  It  was  first  assigned  to 
the  Benedictines ;  in  1507  to  the 
Olivetans,  by  whom  it  was  rebuilt 
in  1560,  from  the  designs  of  Alessio. 
The  facade  is  simpler  than  the  usual 
style  of  this  architect.  He  intended 
to  add  a  magnificent  cortile,  but  this 
part  of  the  design  was  stopped  in  its 
progress.  The  interior  is  splendid. 
The  vaulting  exhibits  that  imion  of 
plastic  work  and  colour  which,  ahnost 
peculiar  to  Italy,  produces  such  an 
effect  of  elaborate  magnificence.  It  is 
diyided  into  compartments  of  raised 
work,  foliage  and  figures,  within  which 
are  paintings  of  saints,  martyrs,  and 
angels,  not  so  small  as  to  fritter  away 
the  general  aspect,  and  not  so  large  as 
to  intrude  upon  the  architecture.  St. 
John  and  St.  Luke,  in  the  cupola,  were 
painted  by  D.  Crespi ;  the  other  evan- 
gelists and  the  sibyls  are  by  Moncalvo. 
The  roof  of  the  choir  is  hj  A.  Mgino: 
JErc.  Procdcdni  painted  the  compart- 
ments of  thereof  of  the  nave,  and  St.  Ber- 
nardo above  the  door.  St.  Christopher 
is  by  Ciocca;  St.  Peter  by  Ghwcchi.  The 

Eaintings  in  the  choir  on  each  side  of  the 
igh  altar  are  by  Salmeggia ;  St.  Ber- 
nard, and  St.  Victor,  the  patron  saint,  on 
horseback,  the  horse  leaping  forward 
with  much  efiect.  Another  painting  by 
Salmeggia  represents  Sta.  Francisca 
Komana,  the  foundress  of  the  order  of 
the  Oblate  or  Collatine  Nuns,  comforted 
by  the  apparition  of  her  guardian  angel. 
Five  Victors  are  honoured  as  saints  by 
the  western  churches.  The  patron  of 
this  church  suffered  martyrdom  upon 
the  site  which  it  now  occupies.  He  was 
a  soldier  in  the  army  of  Maximinian,  by 
whose  command  he  was  toi  fcured  and 
beheaded,  a.d.  303. 

In  the  Capella  Arese,  6th  on  rt., 
designed  by  Gf.  Quadri,  with  its  black 
marble  columns,  the  Madonna,  angels, 
and  prophets  over  the  altar,  were  sculp- 
tured by  Vismara,  It  contains  the  se- 
pulchres of  the  Arese  family.  In  the 
last  chapel  on  the  rt.  hand  are  three 
pictures  by  Camillo  Frocaocini,  subjects 
from  the  life  of  St.  Gregory  the  Great, 
— his  liitanles  dm'ing  the  great  pesti- 
lence,— his   attending    on    tlie  poor, 


— ^and  the  feast  given  by  him  after 
the  cessation  of  the  plague.  In 
this  composition  the  table  is  placed  in 
singular  angular  perspective ;  the  sons 
of  Totila  are  falling  down  before  him. 
In  the  chapel  of  St.  Benedict  are  some 
good  paintings  by  Figino,  The  stalls 
of  the  choir  are  of  the  17th  cen- 
tury. They  are  of  walnut-tree,  and 
the  carvings  represent  events  in  the 
life  of  St.  Benedict.  The  sacristy  is  a 
fine  room  with  noble  wood  carvings ; 
it  also  contains  several  good  pictures, 
of  which  the  best  is  the  Martyrdom  of 
Saint  Victor,  by  Camillo  Procaccini, 

THE  BECULAB  EDIFICES  OP  MILAN. 

Palazzo  della  Meale  Corte,  close 
to  the  cathedral.  This  palace,  which 
was  the  residence  of  the  viceroys  under 
the  Austrian  rule,  and  now  of  the 
King  when  he  visits  Milan,  is  built 
upon  the  site  of  the  very  magnificent 
one  raised  by  Azzo  Visconti  about 
1330,  which  was  one  of  the  largest 
and  finest  palaces  in  Italy,  and 
decorated  with  paintings  by  Giotto, 
After  repeated  partial  demolitions, 
the  whole,  excepting  the  church  of 
San  ChtardOy  included  in  the  present 
palace  as  its  chapel,  was  puUed  down 
towards  the  close  of  the  last  century. 

"  The  steeple  of  St.  Gothard,  built  in 
1336,  is  a  curious  specimen  of  mediaeval 
architecture ;  it  is  of  brick,  except  tlie 
little  shafts  which  decorate  it,  and  these 
are  of  stone.  The  four  lower  stories 
appearing  above  the  roof  of  the  church 
are  plain  octagons,  with  unequal  faces, 
with  a  row  of  ornamental  intersecting 
arches  to  each  cornice,  and  a  shaft  or 
bead  at  each  angle,  which  interrupts 
all  the  cornices.  There  is  a  little  win- 
dow in  the  lowest  but  one,  but  it 
appears  to  have  been  broken  through 
at  a  later  period ;  the  fourth  has  on 
each  face  a  window  divided  into  two 
parts  by  a  little  column,  and  each  part 
finishes  in  a  small  semicircular  arch. 
This  sort  of  arrangement  occurs  in  the 
early  architecture  of  France,  of  the 
11th,  and  perhaps  of  part  of  the 
12th  centy.,    but   I  think  not  later. 


IjOMBARDY. 


Hoitte  21. — Mian — Boi/al  Palace. 


209 


In  the  fifth  story,  the  angular  shafts 
receive  their  capitals,  and  unite  with 
other  shafts  on  the  faces  of  the  octagon 
to    sup]30rt  a  series  of  Jittle  arches ; 
but  as  the  angular  shafts  intersect  the 
little  cornices  of  each  story,  and  con- 
seqaently  pass  beyond  the  upright  of 
the  plain  faces,  while  the  intermediate 
shafts  are  within  that  line,  the  latter 
are  broken  into  two  heights,  one  pro- 
jecting before  the  other.     Over  this 
are   two  stories,   rather  smaller  than 
those   below,   and  forming  an  equal- 
sided  octagon ;    and    above    all  is   a 
spire,  cut  to  indicate  scales  or  shingles, 
terminating  in  a  globe,   and  a  Uttle 
winged  figure  supporting  a  weather- 
cock.      I  have  dwelt  more  ftdly  on 
these  details,  because  they  so  strongly 
distinguish    the    Lombard    buildings 
from    similar    edifices    of    the    same 
period  in  France  or  England;     and 
because  also  th^  show  the  necessity  of 
a  new  system  of  dates,  when  we  would 
determine  the  epoch  of  a  building  by 
the  peculiarities   of   its    architecture. 
Though  built  in  the  14th  centy.,  it 
exliibits  more  of  what  we  call  Nor- 
man than  of  the  Grothic ;  and  perhaps 
the  Italians  never  entirely  abandoned 
that  mode  of  bmlding  for  any  con- 
sistent style,   tiU    the  restoration    of 
the  Koman  architecture  in  the  15th 
centy.,  under  Brunelleschi.     There  are 
several  steeples  at  Milan  of  this  sort, 
but  this  is  the  best.    It  was  highly 
extolled  by  contemporary  writers  ;  and 
it  derives  more  additional  interest  from 
having  contained  the  first  clock  which 
ever  sounded  the  hours." — Woods'  Let- 
ters of  an  Architect,    From  the  circum- 
stance of  the  first  striking  clock  having 
been  placed  in  this  tower  the  neighbour- 
ing street  acquired  the  name  of  "  DeU' 
ore."  A  singular  story  is  connected  with 
the  gilt  brass  angel  on  the  summit.    A 
•bombardier,  in  1333,  being  condemned 
to  die,  offered  to  strike  off'  the  head  of 
the  figure  at  one  shot,  and,  being  allowed 
his  trial,  he  succeeded;  and  his  skiU 
purchased  his  pardon.    The  angel  con- 
tinued without  a  head  till  1735,  when  it 
was  restored.    It  was  when  proceeding 
to  the  church  of  San   Grotardo  that  I 


Giovanni  Maria  Visconti  was  slain, 
16th  May,  1412.  The  diabohcal  fero- 
city of  this  tyrant  had  continued  un- 
checked for  ten  years.  .  It  was  his  re- 
gular pastime  to  feed  his  bloodhounds 
with  human  victims,  delighting  in  the 
spectacle  as  he  saw  the  animals  tear  the 
quivering  flesh  from  the  bones.  That 
his  unbridled  cruelty  at  last  terminated 
in  perfect  insanity  cannot  be  doubted. 
It  is  a  curious  fact  that  Giovanni  Maria 
began  his  reign  by  granting  a  kind 
of  Magna  Charta  to  the  Milanese, 
and  that  he  was  a  liberal  patron  of 
literatm-e.  He  is  buried  in  the  chapel, 
near  the  altar,  but  his  tomb  was  de- 
stroyed by  the  French,  and  the  interior 
of  the  chapel  is  now  entirely  modernised. 
The  exterior  of  the  tribune  retains  its 
ancient  aspect. 

The  Royal  Palace  contains  many 
modem  frescoes.  The  show  parts  of 
the  palace  worthy  of  mention,  are 
the  following  : — Saloon  :  Night  and 
Morning,  by  Martin  Knoller,  a 
Tyrolese,  a  scholar  of  Mengs.  Salle- 
a-inanger :  ceiling,  the  Four  Seasons, 
by  Treballesi,  Small  Dining  Room : 
a  very  elegant  cabinet,  with  medal- 
Hons  on  chiar'-oscuro.  Sala  di  Mepre- 
sentazione :  ceiUng  by  Apjfdani  and 
Hat/ez,  Jupiter  and  Mercury.  Sala  di 
Audienza  :  ceiling  by  Ajppiani — His- 
tory inscribing  the  deeds  of  Napoleon 
upon  the  shield  of  Minerva;  in  the 
four  angles,  the  four  quarters  of  the 
globe.  Imperial  Throne  Room:  by 
Appiani — the  Apotheosis  of  Napoleon, 
he  being  represented  as  Jupiter  upon 
an  eagle :  considered  the  best  of  the 
series.  Present  Throne  Room:  Mar- 
riage of  Napoleon  and  Maria  Louisa, 
by  Sayez.  Ball  Room  :  the  Coro- 
nation of  the  Emperor  Ferdinand  as 
King  of  the  Lombardo-Venetian  King- 
dom, also  by  Hayez,  The  Ghreat 
Rail  Room  is  a  splendid  old-fashioned 
apartment.  Its  principal  feature  is 
a  gallery  supported  by  caryatides, 
executed  by  Calano,  an  artist  from 
Parma.  They  are  cleverly  varied. 
Small  Rail  Room,  an  Egyptian  Hall  j 
i.  e.  a  hall  suppoi-ted  by  ranges  of 
columns,    like    that    at   our  London 

Z.  3 


210 


EoiU;e  21. — MUan — Piazza  de*  Tinbunali, 


Sect.  m. 


Mansion  House ;  it  is  lighted  by  3000 1 
candles,  and  contains  Canova's  original 
bust  of  the  first  Napoleon.  A  room 
hung  with  tapestry  from  the  designs  of 
Raphael.  There  are  several  modem 
pictures,  and  a  series  of  good  frescoes 
by  B.  I/uiniy  removed  from  some  dese- 
crated churches. 

The  Areivescovado,  or  Archbishop's 
Palace  (between  the  Piazza  Fontana 
and  the  cathedral) ,  contains  a  very  good 
collection  of  paintings,  bequeathed  to 
the   see  by  Cardinal  Monti,  and  in- 
creased by  his  successors.    A  few  have 
been  transferred   to    the  Brera  Ghil- 
lery.     The   following  are  the  best : — 
Giulio    Campi:    the    Madonna,    sup- 
ported by  Angels ;  originally  a  church- 
banner,     or     gonfalon.       Bernardino 
Campi :  St.  John  the  Evangelist,  with 
his  symbol  the  Eagle.     Leonardo  da 
Vinci :  a  Sketch, — the  Virgin  contem- 
plating our  Lord,  who   ia  holding  a 
Lamb.     Oaudenzio  Ferrari :   a  Nati- 
vity,— ^raany  saints  introduced.   Titian : 
an  Adoration  of  the  Magi.     Camillo 
Brocaccini:  the  Heads  of  the  Twelve 
Apostles.     Cerano :   the  Circumcision 
of  our   Lord.      Sarzana :    the  naked 
Infant  Savioui;  sleeping  on  the  Cross. 
Bramantino :    a  Virgin   and  Child, — 
the  Virgin  dressed  in  blue,    with    a 
turban.     Andrea  del   Sarto  :  a  Mag- 
dalene holding  the  Vase  of  Ointment. 
Leonardo   da    Vinci :   a    Virgin    and 
Child.      Morazzone :    the  Murder  oi 
the  Innocents.      Balma   Veochio :  the 
Woman  taken  in  Adultery;  our  Lord  is 
pointing  to  the  writing  on  the  ground, 
the  Pharisees  looking  on.     Ghitdo  :  St. 
Joseph  holding  and  contemplating  the 
Infant   Saviour.      Michael  Angela :   a 
Battle-piece,  with  many  naked  figures. 
Titian :  a  Portrait  of  Pope  Julius  III. 
Oiulio  Cesare  Brocaccini :  St.  Jerome, 
half  naked, — an  angel  above  is  in  the 
act  of  speaking  to  the  saint  j  the  Mar- 
riage  of  St.   Catherine.      Bernardino 
Campi :  a  Design  in  cliiar*-osciiro,  re- 
presenting St.  Sigiflmund  of  Cremona, 
and  other  Saints.     After  Raphael :  the 
Adoration  of  the  Shepherds,  a  piece 
of  tapestry  woven  in  gold  and   silk. 
Morazzone :  the  Angel  wrestling  with 


Jacob.  Antonio  Campi:  our  Lord's 
Agony  in  the  Ghirden,  Andrea  del 
Sarto :  the  Lord  of  the  Vineyard  pay- 
ing the  Hire  of  his  Labourers.  Raphael: 
a  Design,  on  paper,  of  several  naked 
figures  in  the  act  of  shooting  at  a  mark. 
Leonardo  da  Vinci:  two  Designs,  in 
chiar*-oscuro,  of  naked  children.  Ca- 
millo  Brocaccini  :  the  Raising  of  Laza- 
rus, and  the  Martyrdom  of  SS.  Nazaro 
and  Celso ;  Designs  in  chiar'-oscuro, 
with  many  figures.  Mabuse :  a  Virgin 
and  Child.  Antonio  Campi :  the  Cir- 
cumcision of  our  Lord.  Albert  Durer : 
St.  Jerome.  Baris  Bordone :  two 
Holy  Families,  one  including  St.  Am- 
brose, and  another  with  St.  Catherine. 
Bernardino)  Campi :  our  Lord  bearing 
his  Cross.  Morazzone :  a  Holy  Family. 
Bordenone :  the  Virgin  and  Child* 
'Rtian :  a  Holy  Family,  with  St. 
Q-eorge  in  armour. 

The  Balazzo  delta  Citta,  or  Broletto, 
in  the  Corso  del  Broletto.  Broletto  was 
the  name  formerly  given  to  the  town- 
hall  or  palace  of  the  municipahty.  It 
first  stood  on  the  site  of  the  Corte, 
afterwards  in  the  Piazza  de'  TribunalL 
The  present  building,  which  is  exten- 
sive, with  two  courts  and  colonnades, 
is  a.  specimen  of  the  architecture  of 
the  revival  previous  to  the  time  of 
Bramante.  It  was  built  by  Mlippo 
Maria  J^conti  for  the  celebrated  Count 
Carmagnola.  It  now  contains  the 
offices  of  the  financial  department  of 
the  province. 

The  Biazza  de^  Trtbunali^  or  de^  Mer- 
cantiy  is  remarkable  as  containing  some 
remains  of  mediaeval  Milan.  In  the 
centre  rises  a  large  squarebuilding,  stand- 
ing upon  open  arches,  of  which  the  upper 
portion  serves  as  a  depository  for  the 
Notarial  archives  of  the  city,  wliilst 
the  arched  space  below  was  used  as 
a  species  of  market.  The  latter  has 
been  handsomely  restored  and  enclosed 
in  glass,  and  serves  as  the  general  ren- 
dezvous of  the  mercantile  community, 
and  especially  as  a  com  exchange.  This 
building,  now  called  the  B.  degU 
Archim,  was  the  Balazzo  delta  Ragione, 
where,  in  earlier  times,  the  magistrates  of 
,  the  commonwealth  of  Milan  assembled, 


Lombard Y.        JRoute  21. — Milan — Piazza  de'  Mercantt, 


211 


and  where  the  ducal  courts  of  justice 
sat  in  after  times.  It  was  begun  in 
1228  by  the  Podest^  Alipraadi,  and 
completed  1233  by  his  successor,  Old- 
rado  Grosso  di  Tresseno,  who  is  re- 
presented on  the  S.  side  mounted  on 
his  steed  in  fiill  armour,  very  curious 
for  the  costume,  but  still  more  so  per- 
haps for  the  inscription,  which  recounts 
his  good  and  doughty  deeds  in  extir- 
pating heresy : — 

*'  Qui  solium  struxit,  Catliaros  ut  debuit  uxit." 

The  Cathari  here  mentioned  were 
Manichsean  sectaries,  whose  name,  cor- 
rupted into  Gazzarif  was  transformed 
by  the  G-ermans  into  Keizer.  The  last 
word  should  be  ussit ;  but  the  author 
of  the  inscription  took  the  poetical 
licence  of  altering  it  into  uxit,  in  order 
to  rhyme.  On  the  archivolt  of  the 
second  arch,  on  the  N.  side,  is  a  mys- 
terious figure,  which  belonged  to  a 
much  older  structure,  and  was  thus 
preserved  in  the  13th  century,  out  of 
respect  for  its  then  remote  antiquity. 
It  is  no  other  than  the  once  cele- 
brated half-fleeced  or  half-fleecy  sow, 
by  whose  augury  Mediolanum  was 
founded,  and  from  which  the  city 
derives  its  name  (In  medio  lanse). 
Belovesus  the  Q-aul  was  guided  to 
place  his  settlement,  just  as  the  sow 
and  thirty  young  pigs  settled  the  site 
of  Alba. 

Claudian,  in  his  Epithalamium  upon 
the  marriage  of  the  Emperor  Honorius 
with  Maria  the  daughter  of  Stilicho, 
thus  describes  Venus  as  repairing  to 
Milan,  where,  as  it  would  seem,  the 
hide  of  the  wooUy  sow  was  still  pre- 
served : — 

"  Continnd  sublime  volans,  aJ  moenia  Oallis 
Condita,  lanigerm  Suis  ostentantia  pellem 
Pervenit." 

And  Sidonius  AppoUinaris,  by  the  de- 
scription of  "  the  city  named  after  the 
woolly  sow,"  includes  in  one  distich 
Bavenna  and  Milan : — 

**  Rura  palu(]icols3  temnis  populosa  Ravennee, 
£t  quoB  lanigera  de  sue  nomen  habet." 

The  Piazza  de^  Mercanti  is  sur- 
rounded by  other  buildings,  possessing 


much  historical  interest,  and  not  de- 
void of  architectural  beauty.     Of  these, 
the  most  curious  in  aspect  is  that  on 
the  S.  side  called  the  Loggia  degli  Osii, 
from  the  fiamily  who  deh&jed  much  of 
the  expense  of  the  structure,  which  was 
begim  in  1316.     From  the  balcony,  or 
^^ringhiera**  (or,  in   the  language  of 
the    people,  parlera),  in    front,    the 
assent  of  the  citizens  was  asked  by 
the  Podest^  to  the  acts  of  government, 
and  the  sentences  passed  upon  criminals 
were  proclaimed,  the  shields  on  it  are 
of  the  Visconti  Sforzas.     A  row  of 
others  with  armorial  bearings  on  either 
side  decorate  the  facade,  being  those  of 
the  quarters  of  the  city.    The  archi- 
tecture of  the  whole  facade  is  in  an 
elegant  Italian  Gothic  style,  in  black 
and  white  marble,  and  was  much  ad- 
mired by  Mr.   Hope.    Alongside  the 
Loggia    degli    Ossi    is     the     ancient 
Scuola  Palatina,  now  converted   into 
an  office  for  mortgage-deeds,  in  front 
of  it  are  statues  of  Ausonius  and  of 
St.  Augustin  J  it  formerly  belonged  to 
the  doctors  of  civil  law.    On  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  Piazza  from  the  Loggia 
degh  Ossi  is  the  old  Palazzo  delta  Cittd, 
or,  as  we  should  say,  the  Town  Hall. 
It  was  built  by  Pope  Pius  IV.  about 
1564.    The  interior  has  some  tolerable 
paintings  of  the  17th  century.     The 
statue  of  St.  Ambrose,  standing  before 
it,   occupies   the  place  of  Philip   II. 
of  Spain,  which  was  converted  into  a 
Brutus  in  1797,  and  destroyed  during 
the  riots  of  1813.    The  lower  pai*t  of 
one  of  the  wings  has  been  recently  fitted 
up  as  theBolsaor  Exchange.  It  contains 
a  monument  to  Cavour,  with  a  good 
bust,  raised  by  the  merchants  of  Milan, 
The  tower  that  rises  on  Pal.  delta  Citta^ 
is  of  the  13th  cent.,  having  been  erected 
by  Napoleone  deUa  Torre. 

This  part  of  the  city  is  the  heart  of 
business.  Opening  out  of  it  are  the 
goldsmiths'  street;  the  Contrada  di 
Santa  Margheritay  the  Paternoster  K-ow 
of  Milan,  full  of  booksellers'  shops 
(Guides,  prints,  and  excellent  maps, 
including  those  of  the  Austrian  Ord- 
nance survey,  are  to  be  had  at  Arta- 
rift's,  who  has  also  establishments  a' 


212 


Route  21. — MUan — The  Brera — Pmntings,        Sect.  III. 


Vienna  and  Mannheim) ;  and  the  Con- 
trada  dei  Borsinari,  leading  to  the  Ca- 
thedral, the  seat  of  some  of  the  best 
mercery  shops  in  Milan. 

Bbeba.     Palazzo    delle    Scienze  e 
delle  Arti  is  the  official  name  of  the 
great    estabhshment    which,  when  it 
belonged  to  the  Jesuits,  was  called  the 
Collegio  di  Sta.  Maria  in  Brera^  or, 
more  shortly,  Brera^  by  which  name 
it  is  still  generally  known.     It  might 
be  called  St.  Mary's  in  the  Fields,  for 
the  old  Lombard  word  Brera,  or  more 
properly   Breda,   is    a  corruption    of 
BrtBdivm,     The  establishment  origin- 
ally belonged  to  the  order  of  the  Umi- 
liati,   some    of    the    principal    mem- 
bers of  which  having  conspired  against 
the  life   of   San  Carlo  Borromeo,   it 
was  suppressed.    Their  dissolute  con- 
duct had  already  excited  great  scan- 
dal.    The  Jesuits  were  put  in  pos- 
session of  the   Brer»  in   1572,   upon 
condition   that  they  should  estabhsh 
both  what  we  may  term  a  high  school 
and  a  college,  a  duty  which  they  exe- 
cuted with  their  usual  ability  till  they 
were   expelled   in    their    turn.     The 
church  was  pulled  down  in  1810  to 
make  room  for  the  academy.      The 
present  buildings  are  very  extensive, 
and    now   contain  within  their  walls 
(besides  a  chapel)  the  apartments  occu- 
pied by  the-  **  Keale  Academia,"  the 
schools  of  various  branches  of  the  fine 
arts,, apartments  for  the  "Real  Insti- 
tuto   delle  Scienze,"   a  very  extensive 
gallery  of  paintings,  the  JPinacoteca,  the 
Library,   a  rich  collection   of  medals 
and  corns,  many  curious  Chinese  manu- 
scripts, a  small  botanic  garden,  &c.    In 
the  great  court  have  been  erected  sta- 
tues of  Verri  the  historian,  of  Caval- 
lieri  the  mathematician,  of  the  Marquis 
Cagnola  the    celebrated  arcliitect,  of 
Grossi  the  historical  novelist,  and  of 
Count  CastigUone,  an  eminent  Orien- 
taUst ;    on   the   stairs  leading   to  the 
library,  are  busts  of  Oriani  and  others, 
and  statues  of  Beccaria  and  Farini  by 
G.  Monti  and  Marchesij    and  under 
the  corridor  on  the  upper  floor,  which 
runs  round  three  sides  of  the  building^ 


busts  of  Monti,  Manzoni,  Gen.  Yaccani, 
and  of  several  other  Milanese  celebri- 
ties. The  bronze  statue  by  Canova  of 
the  First  Napoleon,  intended  for  the 
Arco  deUa  Pace,  has  been  placed  in  the 
centre  of  the  court.  Out  of  the  S.E. 
corner  of  the  upper  corridor  opens 

The  Pinacoteca,  or  gallery  of  paint- 
ings, a  collection  which,  though  some- 
what deficient  in  particidar  schools,  is 
nevertheless  of  great  value.  The  pic- 
tures, however,  gain  nothing  by  their 
arrangement.  There  is  no  attempt  at 
classification,  and  they  are  indifferently 
lighted.  The  names  of  the  painters,  with 
the  numbers  of  the  pictures,  in  large 
characters,  are  appended  to  each,  which 
renders  the  purchase  of  the  incomplete 
and  unsatisfactory  catalogue  unneces- 
sary :  a  new  one  is  in  preparation.  The 
gallery  is  open  daily,  £rom  9  to  3  in 
the  winter,  and  until  4  in  the  summer 
months ;  upon  Sundays  and  holidays 
from  12  until  3. 

In  the  two  entrance  halls  (h  l)  are  a 
number  of  frescoes  by  different  early 
Lombard  masters ;  some  on  the  walls, 
which  have  been  sawn  from  their 
places,  and  others  which  hate  been 
transferred  to  canvas.  The  most  im- 
portant are  those  by  the  Luinis. 

Among  thesefrescoesthefoUowing  are 
most  worthy  of  notice : — "By  Bernardino 
Luini,  the  Virgin  and  Child  with  St. 
John  and  the  lamb,  an  injured  but  good 
fresco ;  1,  three  Q-irls  playing  apparently 
at  the  game  of  hot  cockles  ;  2,  a  Youth 
riding  on  a  white  horse;  4,  a  Child  seated 
amongst  vines  and  grapes;  5,  St.  Sebas- 
tian ;  7,  the  Virgin  and  St.  .Toseph  pro- 
ceeding to  their  marriage  at  the  temple. 
— 8,  Bramantino:  the  Virgin  jind  Child 
and  two  Angels. — 9,  B.  Luini:  Two 
Minstrels,  such  as  used  to  accompany 
wedding  processions,  and  probably  in- 
tended as  a  portion  of  No.  7 ;  10,  a  Sacri- 
fice to  Pan  ;  11,  the  Metamorphosis  of 
Daphne ;  1 5,  the  Dream  of  St.  Joseph. — 
16,  Aur.  Luini:  a  large  fresco  of  the 
Martyrdom  of  St.  Andrew. — 17,  Vin- 
cenzio  Fojppa:  the  Martyrdom  of  St. 
Sebastian;  the  earliest  in  date  of  the 
frescoes  exliibited  here. — 18^  B,  Luini  t 


LoMBAiU)y.       Route  21. — Milan — The  Brera — Paintings. 


213 


the  Israelites  preparing  to  depart  from 
Egypt ;  19,  the  Presentation  of  the 
Virgin  in  the  Temple ;  20,  an  Angel ; 
27,  of  his  school  also  is  a  San  Lazzaro. 
— 22  and  28,  Bernardino  Lanini : 
Mary  Magdalene,  and  Sta.  Marta. 
— 29,  Sta.  Marcella,  school  of  Ltdni; 
and  hy  B.  Luini  again  are  —  30,  the 
Birth  of  Adonis ;  31,  an  Angel ;  32, 
St.  Anna  and  St.  Joachim ;  33,  the^a- 
tivi^  of  the  Virgin ;  34,  the  Body  of 
St.  Catherine  carried  by  three  Angels  to 
the  Sepulchre — a  lovely  work,  repro- 


duced in  chromo-lithography  by  our 
Arundel  Society  of  London ;  35,  38, 
Two  Cherubs ;  36,  the  Virgin  and  Child, 
with  Saints,  and  an  Angel  tuning  a 
lute,  below,  painted  in  1521.  This 
very  fine  fresco  bears  his  name,  and  the 
date  1521.  37,  the  Almighty,  with 
outstretched  arms,  very  fine ;  39,  the 
Presentation  of  the  Virgin  in  the 
Temple;  40,  the  Prophet  Habakkuk 
awakened  by  the  Angel;  41,  the  An- 
nunciation by  the  Angel  to  St.  Anna  ; 
42,  St.  Anthony  of  Padua. — By  Qau- 


PLAX  OF  THE  BRERA  GALLERY. 


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a  Entrance.    M)l)  Halls  of  the  Frescoes,    c  Bust  of  King.    L  to  XIIL  Halls  of  PalnUngs. 

XIV.,  XV.  Rooms  of  Engravings. 


denzio  Ferrari  are  —43,  the  History  of 
Joachim  and  Anna,  in  3  connected  but 
separate  paintings ;  48,  the  Salutation ; 
49,  the  Dedication  of  the  young  Saviour 
in  the  Temple ;  50,  the  Adoration 
of  the  Magi,  in  3  compartments. — B. 
Luini,  51,  Two  Angels ;  56,  the  Trans- 
figuration; 57,  St.  Ursula;  61,  the 
Redeemer ;  62,  a  Portrait  of  a  Young 
Lady ;  64,  Three  Cupids,  with  musical 
instruments  ;  65,  another  Portrait  of  a 
Lady ;  and,  66,  an  Angel  flying,  very 
beautiful. 


In  the  first  room  (i.)  the  pictures  most 
worthy  of  attention  are : — 5,  Pa/rmi- 
gianino :  the  Virgin  and  Child,  with  St. 
Margaret,  St.  Jerome,  St.  Petronius,  and 
an  Angel,  probably  a  copy. — 6,  Titian  : 
St.  Jerome  in  the  Desert.  The  saint  is 
kneeling,  with  his  eyes  fixed  on  the  cru- 
cifix, and  grasps  a  stone,  with  which  he 

I  appears  in  the  act  of  striking  his  breast. 
The  action  of  the  saint,  and  the  tone 
of  the  landscape,  are  fine.. — 10,  Van- 

I  dyke :  the  Virgin  and  Child,  with  St. 
Anthony  of  Padua.--ll,  Paris  Bor* 


214 


Boute  21. — Milan — The  Brera — Paintings.        Sect.  HI. 


done  :  the  Virgin  and  the  Twelve 
Apostles. — 434,  Cristoforo  Caselli,  of 
Parma :  a  bishop  incensing  a  lady 
kneeling  before  an  altar  j  a  good  speci- 
men of  tliis  little  known  master  of  the 
16th  cent. — 16,  Ghiercino :  St.  Clara 
and  St.  Catherine. — 17,  Rubens:  the 
Institution  of  the  Lord's  Supper. — 
18,  Domenichino :  the  Virgin  and  Child 
enthroned,  with  St.  John  the  Evan- 
gelist, St.  Petronius,  and  many  Cherubs. 
— 20,  Ghuereino :  the  Virgin,  St.  Joseph, 
and  St.  Theresa. — 21,Affostino  Caracei: 
the  Woman  taken  in  Adultery,  with 
many  figures. — 22,  Ludovico  Caracei  : 
the  Woman  of  Canaan  at  our  Lord's 
feet,  with  several  Apostles. — 26,  Paris 
Bordone :  the  Baptism  of  our  Lord. — 
27,  Annihale  Caracei:  the  Woman 
of  Samaria  at  the  Well. — 32,  Pro- 
caccird :  the  Magdalene,  with  an 
Angel. — 33,  Trotti,  called  II  Malosso  : 
the  Entombment. — 35,  JProcaccini :  St. 
Cecilia  sinking  from  her  wounds,  but 
her  eyes  fixed  on  heaven,  supported  by 
two  Angels. — 36,  Daniel  Crespi :  Our 
Lord  going  to  Mount  Calvary.  — 
43,  Daniel  Crespi :  the  Martyrdom  of 
St.  Stephen — a  picture  crowded  with 
figures. — i4,  Bonifazio :  the  Adoration 
of  the  Magi. 

The  second  room  (ii.). — 45,  Garo- 
falo :  a  Dead  Christ,  with  many  figures 
— 47,  Tintoretto:  another  Piet^. — 48, 
Moroni :  the  Assumption  of  the 
Virgin, — 49,  50,  an  Adoration  of  the 
Magi ;  and  51,  JPaul  Veronese :  St. 
Grregory  and  St.  Jerome,  St.  Ambrose 
and  St.  Augustin,  with  a  glory  of  Angels 
around. — 53,  Bassano :  St.  Roch  visit- 
ing the  Sufierers  from  Plague,  the  Vir- 
gin above. — 56,  II  Moretto :  the  Virgin 
and  Child  above,  in  glory ;  below, 
St.  Jerome,  St.  Francis,  and  St.  An- 
thony the  Hermit. — 58,  I^m.  delta 
Vite :  the  Virgin,  St.  John  the  Baptist, 
and  St.  Sebastian,  an  excellent  picture. 
— 59,  Bomanino  :  Virgin  and  Child, 
St.  Francis,  Saints,  and  Angels. — 60, 
Balma  Vecchio  :  the  Adoration  of  the 
Magi,  with  St.  Helen.— 61,  Paul  Vero- 
nese :  probably  by  his  school,  the  Mar- 
riage of  Cana. — 62,  Geronimo  Savoldo : 
the  Virgin  and  Child,  with  two  Angels 


in  glory;  and  below,  St.  Peter,  St. 
PaiU,  St.  Jerome,  and  St.  Dominick. 
— 63,  Catena  :  St.  Stephen ;  beautiful. 
— 65  and  66,  Moretto :  St.  Clara  and 
St.  Catherine,  and  St.  Jerome  and  an 
Apostle.  —  67j  Bonifazio  :  the  Last 
Supper. — 68,  St.  Antony  of  Padua. — 
70,  Tintoretto:  the  Holy  Cross,  with 
4  Saints,  and  the  Donatario  ;  St.  Helen 
and  St.  Catherine  are  the  chief  figures ; 
St.  Andrew  and  St.  Dominick  are 
amongst  the  others. — 71,  Paul  Vero- 
nese :  (a  Pope)  St.  Cornelius,  St.  An- 
fhony  the  Abbot,  St.  Cyprian,  a  page 
and  a  cross-bearer. — 73.  Cristoforo  Ca- 
selli :  Virgin  enthroned,  with  4  saints, 
and  pretty  groups  of  children  below. 

Third  room  (iii.). — 75,  Gentile  da 
Fahriano  :  the  Virgin  crowned  by  the 
Saviour,  and  many  Angels  j  figures 
about  half  the  size  of  life^a  curious 
and  good  picture.  —  77,  Nicolo  da 
Foligno:  the  Virgin  and  Child  sur- 
rounded by  Angels  ;  with  his  name,  and 
the  date  1465. — 78,  Caelo  Ceivelli  :  a 
picture  divided  by  architectural  orna- 
ments into  3  compartments ;  in  the 
1st  is  the  Virgin  and  Child;  on  her 
rt.  hand  are  St.  Peter  and  St.  Domi- 
nick, and  on  the  1.  St.  Peter  Martyr 
and  St.  G-eminianus.  The  name  and 
date  are  on  this  curious  picture. — 
79,  id.^  a  Sainted  Bishop  and  St. 
Jerome :  all  these  works  of  Crivelli 
are  first-rate  specimraiS  of  the  master. 
— 86,  Bartolomeo  Montagna  :  the  Vir- 
gin and  Child,  witli  St.  Andrew,  St. 
Monica,  the  Emp;  Sigismund,  St.  Ur- 
sula, and  three  Angels  below,  playing 
on  different  instruments.  A  curious  spe- 
cimen of  this  early  and  rather  stiff 
master ;  it  is  full  of  character  in  the 
actions  and  expressions  of  the  saints. 
The  date  (1499)  is  on  the  base  of  the 
picture,  with  the  name  of  Montagna. 
—  90,  Gentile  Bellini:  St.  Mark 
preaching  at  Alexandria  in  Egypt :  a 
striking  painting,  remarkable  for  its 
size,  as  well  as  for  the  variety  of 
figures  and  costume;  in  the  back- 
ground a  large  edifice  in  the  style  of 
the  Basilica  of  S.  Mark  at  Venice, 
and  before  it  camels ;  a  camelopard 
is     introduced,    which    Bellini    pro- 


Lombard Y.      Eoute  21. — Milan — The  Brera — Pcdixtings, 


215 


bably  saw  and  drew  ■when  he  was  in 
the  East.  91,  Luca  8ignorelli :  the 
Flagellation. — 96,  Cima  da  Conegliano : 
St.  Peter  Martyr,  St.  Nicholas,  St. 
Augustin,  and  an  Angel  tuning  his 
lute. — 97,  Oiovanni  Sanzio,  father  to 
Kaphael :  the  Annunciation,  a  remark- 
able picture.  It  has  much  of  that 
grace  and  delicacy  which  his  son  after- 
wards manifested  so  largely. — 98,  iMca 
Longhi :  Madonna  and  Child,  St.  Paul 
and  St.  Anthony,  the  work  of  a 
rare  master. — 101  and  109,  Giacomo 
Francia .:  Virgin  and  Child  above,  with 
Saints  below. — 103,  Palmezzano  :  the 
Nativity,  with  Angels,  very  character- 
istic.— 105,  Andrea  Mantegna :  an 
Ancona,  divided  by  colxmins  into  13 
compartments,  St.  Mark  writing  in 
the  centre,  and  various  Saints  around. 
— 107,  Corradini,  called  Frate  Car- 
nevale :  the  Virgin  and  Child,  with 
many  surrounding  figures,  mostly  por- 
traits, especially  of  Federigo  da  Mon- 
tefeltro,  Duke  of  Urbino,  in  armour, 
kneeling,  are  introduced  into  this 
curious  picture. — 112,  Faul  Veronese : 
our  Lord  in  the  house  of  Simon 
the  Pharisee,  a  fine  picture,  full  of 
figures.  — 113,  GHo.  Cariani,  a  rare 
master :  Madonna  and  many  Saints. — 
115,  JBari.  Montagna  :  Virgin,  with  St. 
Anthony  of  Padua. — 116,  Ben.  Mon- 
tagna: Madonna  and  Saints. — 117, 
Martino  da  Udine :  St.  Ursula,  sur- 
rounded by  attendant  Virgins,  dated 
1507. — 118,  Qarofalo:  a  large  Cruci- 
fixion.— 121,  Stefano  di  Ferrara  :  the 
Virgin  enthroned,  with  Saints. — 124, 
C.  Crwelli  :  a  Crucifixion.  — 125, 
Qiotto  :  the  Virgin  and  Child,  signed ; 
it  formed  the  centre  of  an  Ancona  of 
5  subjects,  the  other  4  being  in  the 
Pinacotheea  at  Bologna. — 126,  Marco 
JBasaiti:  St.  Jerome,  highly  finished. 
— 127,  Falmezzano  :  Virgin  and  four 
Saints,  with  name  and  date  1493. — 
128,  Carlo  Crivelli :  Virgin  and  Child, 
with  exuberant  arabesque  ornamenta- 
tion. 

The  fourth  room  (iv.).  Manstteti: 
a  curious  painting  of  a  Baptism,  in 
which  many  Turkish  figures  are  in- 
troduced ;    the    architectural     details 


interesting,  signed. — 41,  Campi :  the 
Holy  Family,  with  St.  Theresa  and  St. 
Catherine;  good. — 131,  a  joint  pro- 
duction of  Van  Thielen  and  Foelem- 
burg,  the  first,  whose  name  the  picture 
bears,  for  the  flowers,  the  second  for 
the  figures. — 136,  Vandyke:  a  female 
portrait. — 140,  Lorenzo  Costa,  the 
Adoration  of  the  Magi. — 144,  Car' 
paccio :  St.  Stephen  disputing  with  the 
Pharisees  (1514). — Aurelio  Luini  : 
parts  of  a  Holy  Family. — (?.  F.  Mo- 
roni :  Virgin  and  Four  Saints,  from  S. 
Zenone  at  Verona. — 3  good  Portraits, 
by  Lorenzo  Lotto. — 194,  ZuccherelU: 
the  Preaching  of  St.  John. — 177,  Siccio- 
lante  da  Sermoneta :  a  Virgin  and  Child. 

Fifth  room  (v.) .  —  Fahnezzano  :  a 
Coronation  of  the  Virgin  and  two 
Saints.  167,  Liberate  da  Verona :  St, 
Sebastian,  curious  from  the  scarceness 
of  the  artist's  works  j  176,  Lanini : 
Madonna  and  Saints,  with  the  Dona- 
torio. — 169,  Moroni:  the  Virgin  en- 
throned, with  2  Saints  j  in  distemper. 

The  sixth  room  (vi.). — 110.  Catena : 
a  Bishop,  in  a  green  and  purple  robe, 
good  in  tone  and  colour." — 182,  id., 
St.  Anthony  of  Padua,  a  figure  of  a 
Monk,  reading,  and  holding  a  Hly  in 
his  hand. — 185,  Albani  :  the  Dance 
of  Cupids,  or  the  Triumph  of  Love 
over  Pluto :  a  most  graceful  and  plea- 
sing specimen :  one  of  Albani^s  finest 
works,  and  in  excellent  condition. — 
188,  Oiov.  Bellini:  a  Pietk,  with  the  art- 
ist's name. — 189,  Cima  da  Conegliano: 
Pope  Q-regory  the  Q-reat,  with  St.  John 
Baptist  and  St.  Paul,— 191  and  197, 
Fith :  Dead  Q-ame. — 192,  Van  Goyen  : 
a  Sea  View. — 202,  Annibale  Caracci : 
the  Portrait  of  the  Artist  and  three 
other  Heads. — 206,  Garofalo  :  Ma- 
donna and  Child,  in  a  glory  of  Angels. 
— 208,  Moroni :  the  Virgin  and  Child, 
St.  Catherine,  St.  Francis,  and  the 
Donor :  figiu'es  half-length. — 209,  Gio^ 
vanni  Bellini :  the  Virgin  and  Child ; 
signed  and  dated  1510 ;  a  good  picture. 
— 241,  Filipyo  Mazzuolo :  an  excellent 
male  portrait. 

Seventh  room  (vii.). — 210,  Marco 
d*  Ogionno :  the  Virgin  and  Child,  St. 
Paul,   St.  John  the  Baptist,   and   an 


216 


Route  21. — Milan — The  Brera — Paintings.         Sect.  III. 


Angel  playing  on  a  violin :  a  good 
specimen  of  this  rare  artist ;  the  heads 
are  full  of  expression,  especially  that 
of  the  Virgin,  which  is  beautiful  and 
tender.  Marco  d'Ogionno  was  a  pupil 
or  imitator  of  Leonardo  da  Vinci, 
and  he  made  two  or  three  excellent 
copies  of  the  Cenacolo. — 214,  Q-uee- 
CiNO :  Abraham  dismissing  Hagar : 
perhaps  the,  most  praised  amongst  the 
pictures  in  the  Brera.  Ever  since 
Lord  Byron  was  so  much  struck  by 
this  picture,  numberless  travellers  have 
been  struck  too ;  it  has  been  beauti- 
fully engraved  by  Jesi. — 213, 217,  Cima 
da  CoTiegliano :  two  pretty  small  pic- 
tures of  four  Saints. — 230,  Kaphael  : 
the  "  Sposalizio,"  or  Marriage  of  the 
Virgin.  This  celebrated  picture  was 
originally  at  Citt^  di  CasteUo.  It  is  in 
the  artist's  early  style,  and  bears  much 
resemblance  to  that  of  Perugino  in  the 
architectural  perspective,  arrangement 
of  the  figures,  and  a  certain  degree  of 
hardness  in  the  outline;  yet  the  de- 
sign and  action  are  very  graceful,  and 
it  is  a  most  interesting  specimen  of 
one  of  Baphael's  early  woj*ks,  bearing 
his  name,  and  the  date,  Kaphael 
UfiBiNAS,  MDiiii.,  on  the  frieze  of  the 
circular  temple  in  the  background. 
Mary  and  Joseph  stand  opposite  to 
each  other  in  the  centre;  the  high 
priest  between  theih  joins  their  hands ; 
Joseph  is  in  the  act  of  placing  the 
ring  on  the  finger  of  the  bride :  behind 
Mary  is  a  group  of  the  Virgins  of  the 
Temple;  near  Joseph  ore  the  suitors, 
all  portraits,  one  of  whom  breaks  his 
barren  wand — that  wliich  Joseph  holds 
in  liis  hand  has  blossomed  into  a 
flower,  which,  according  to  the  legend, 
was  the  sign  that  he  was  the  chosen 
one.  This  lovely  painting  has  been 
recently  much  improved  by  removing 
the  old  varnish ;  many  fine  details, 
both  of  design  and  colouring,  con- 
cealed by  years  of  neglect,  have  been 
brought  out,  some  of  which  escaped 
Longhi  in  his  celebrated  engraving  of 
it,  especially  the  delicate  landscape  in 
the  background,  which  may  also  have 
been  a  little  over-restored. — 254,  Velas- 
quez t  Head  of  a  Friar  Sleeping. — 247, 


Luini:  the  Virgin  and  Child,  a  very  fine 
picture. — 358,  And/rea  da  Milano :  the 
Holy  Family ;  the  portrait  of  an  aged 
man  on  the  rt.  is  perhaps  the  donor  of 
the  picture  :  the  name,  and  date,  1495, 
are  given.  —  416,  Leonardo  da  Vinci  : 
the  Head  of  our  Lord,  a  design  in 
black  and  red  chalks,  and  believed  to 
be  a  study  for  the  head  in  the  cele- 
brated Cenacolo:  extremely  beautiful. 
— 251,  Eembrandt:  a  good  Female 
portrait. 

The  eighth  room  (vm.) — 231,  Fran. 
Verla  :  Madonna  on  Throne,  and 
Saints.  —  235,  Raphael :  Sketch,  in 
sepia,  of  an  allegorical  group  of  naked 
figures,  on  paper.  At  the  bottom  of 
this  very  clever  design  is  written,  as  it 
is  thought,  by  Kaphael,  the  name  of 
Michello  Angela  Bonarota.  This  bistre 
drawing  is  the  original  sketch  for  the 
fresco  formerly  in  the  Casino  Olgiati  at 
the  Villa  Borghese,  and  now  in  the  Bor- 
ghese  Q-allery  at  Rome. — 237,  Ghiido  : 
St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul.  It  was  for- 
merly in  the  Zampieri  Q-aUery  of 
Bologna.  —  240,  And.  del  Sarto :  A 
drawing,  called  "  II  Padre  di  Famiglia," 
the  Man  in  the  Q-ospel  paying  the 
Workmen. — 242,  Amhrogio  Figino  :  a 
Man  in  Armour;  a  clever  portrait, 
thought  to  be  that  of  Marshal  Foppa. 
— 243,  A  fine  specimen  of  the  early 
Grerman  school,  in  three  compartments; 
the  Adoration  of  the  Magi  in  the  middle, 
attributed  to  Henry  Mitde  Bles^  called 
by  the  Italians  la  Civetta. — 244,  Dosso 
JDossi  :  St.  Sebastian. — 246  and  248, 
Canaletti  :  two  Landscapes.  —  226, 
Andeea  Mantegna:  a  Dead  Christ 
and  the  two  Marys ;  in  distemper :  sin- 
gular and  forcible  effect  of  foreshorten- 
ing, and  executed  with  great  power. — 
139,  a  picture  attributed  to  Correggio 
on  very  doubtful  grounds,  the  Virgin 
and  Child,  Mary  Magdalene,  and  St. 
Lucia,  in  a  Landscape.  —  218,  222, 
Vittore  Carpaccio :  the  Marriage  of 
the  Virgin,  and  her  Presentation  in  the 
Temple. — 229,  Cima  da  Conegliano :  3 
Saints. 

Ninth  room  (ixi). — 256,  Simone  da 
JPesaro :  a  Madonna  and  Saint  present- 
ing Acomsi — 257,  Bonifazio  ;  the  Pre- 


LOMBARDY*       EoiUe  21. — Milan — The  Brera — Paintings, 


217 


sentation  of  the  Infant  Moses  to  Fha- 
raoh^s  Daughter ;  until  of  late  years 
attributed  to  Giorgione. — 258,  Sand- 
rcurt :  the  Q-ood  Samaritan. — 259,  Jjui- 
td :  Noah  drunk,  and  his  Sons. — 269, 
a  Portrait,  said  to  be  hy, Tintoretto. — 
274,  Ouereino ;  La  Sacra  Sindone,  or 
image  of  the  Saviour's  face  on  the 
handkerchief. — 278,  Moretto  :  the  As- 
sumption of  the  Virgin. — 279,  SassO' 
ferrato:  the  Virgin  and  the  Infant 
sleeping ;  above,  a  Grlory  of  Cherubim ; 
a  poor  picture. — 136,  VandyJce  :  a  good 
i  portrait  of  a  Lady. — 83,  Cotignola  : 
Virgin  and  Saints. 

The  tenth  room  (x.)  contains  from 
280  to  333.  280,  Luca  Giordano  :  the 
Virgin  and  Child,  St.  Anthony  of  Padua, 
St.  Joseph,  and  many  Angels  and  Che- 
rubim.— 284,  GasparFoussin:  St.  John 
the  Baptist  in  the  Desert ;  St.  John  is 
represented  as  a  child  of  about  ten 
years  old. — 285,  Deiner:  the  Portrait 
of  an  Ajtist,  three  quarters  length ;  a 
very  theatrical  picture. — 290,  Ba/roccio: 
the  Martyrdom  of  San  VitaUs,  with 
many  figures. — ^292,  T,  Zucoheri:  The 
Descent  of  the  Saviour  into  Hades, 
with  his  name,  and  the  date  1585. — 
293,  Sneyders:  a  Stag-hunt. -- 260, 
A,  Turchi,  or  V  Orbetto,  a  rare  master. 
Virgin  and  Child,  —  294,  JPietro  da 
Cortona:  the  Virgin  and  Child,  St. 
Joseph,  St.  Catherine,  St.  John  the 
Saptist,  and  St.  Oaetano.  —  296,  Ti- 
berio  H^nelli  :  Portrait  of  a  Man. 
—  297,  Daniele  Crespi  :  half-length 
Portrait  of  a  Sculptor.  —  299,  Pietro 
Sublet/ras :  the  Crucifixion,  with  St. 
Mary  Magdalene  and  two  other  figures, 
with  the  artist's  name,  and  the  date 
1744. — 300,  St.  Jerome  in  the  Desert, 
by  the  same  artist. — 301,  Procacomi : 
a  curious  painting  designed  for  a  gon- 
faXon  or  church  banner,  and  painted 
on  both  sides.  On  that  now  ex- 
posed is  the  Virgin  and  Child,  with 
St.  Peter  and  Seven  Angels  :  the  other 
side  also  has  the  Virgin  and  Child 
with  SS.  Andrew  and  Charles. — 302, 
Totnpeo  Battoni  :  a  Holy  Family, 
with  many  Angels. — 308,  Guido :  the 
Head  of  a  Philosopher.— 311  to  318 
inclusive :  all  portraits,  and  considered 


those  of  the  artists  themselves.  They 
are  interesting,  especially  316,  the 
portrait  of  C.  F,  NuvoUne ;  and  317, 
Martin  Knoller :  Portrait  of  Mengs. — 
321,  Bonifazio :  the  Supper  at  Em- 
maus. — 322,  Salvator  Rosa :  the  Souls 
in  Purgatory. — 325,  Castiglione :  the 
Departure  of  the  IsraeUtes  for  the  Holy 
Land. — 326,  Andrea  Porta  :  the  Por- 
trait of  the  Artist. — 327,  Scarsellino  : 
the  Virgin  and  Child,  with  the  Doc- 
tors of  the  Church  and  a  glory  of  An- 
gels.— 331,  Francesco  del  Cairo :  a 
Portrait,  beUeved  to  be  that  of  Sea- 
ramuccia  Perugino.  —  332,  Salvator 
Bosa :  St.  Paul  the  first  Hermit. 

The  eleventh  room  (xi.) — 337,  And, 
Salaino :  the  Virgin  and  Child,  witli 
St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul.— 338,  Callisto 
da  Lodi:  the  Virgin  and  Child,  St. 
John  the  Baptist,  St.  Jerome,  and  an 
Angel.  —  342,  Marco  d^  Ogionno :  St. 
Michael  conquering  Lucifer,  with  two 
angels ;  curious,  in  which  the  drawing 
of  the  figures  and  the  tranqiul  unmoved 
expression  of  the  countenances  of  the 
angels  deserve  attention. — 343,  Q-AU- 
DENZio  Ferbaei:  the  Martyrdom  of 
St.  Catherine,  an  admirable  work, 
perhaps  the  finest  work  in  oils  of 
this  master;  the  Saint,  tranquil  and 
resigned,  looks  up  towards  heaven 
awaiting  her  martyrdom,  whilst  the 
executioners  at  the  'wheel  have  their 
eyes  fixed  on  their  superior,  waiting 
his  conmiands  to  commence  their  cruel 
task. — 344,  Bernardo  Zenale :  the  Vir- 
gin and  Child,  with  the  Fathers  of  the 
Church,  SS.  Q-regory,  Ambrose,  Jerome, 
and  Augustin.  Some  of  the  figures 
evidently  portraits  of  the  family  for 
whom  this  very  interesting  picture  was 
painted ;  amongst  others,  Ludovico 
Sforza  (il  More),  and  his  wife  Beatrice 
Visconti,  with  their  two  children,  are 
introduced.  —  345,  Bernardino  Luini : 
the  Virgin  and  Child,  St.  PhiUp,  and 
others.  The  Saints  are  in  the  act  of 
presenting  a  man  and  two  women, 
kneeling  to  the  Virgin. — 346,  M.  A. 
Caravaggio  :  the  Samaritan  Woman  at 
the  Well. — 348,  Marco  d'  Ogionno :  the 
Last  Supper:  this  picture  is  a  study 
for  the  same  subject  in  fresco,  and  per- 


218 


Route  21. — M^n — The  Brera — Paintings,       Sect.  HI. 


haps  for  the  picture  in  the  Louvre. — 
350,  Nicola  Appiani:  the  Adoration 
of  tlie  Magi,  valuable  as  one  of  the  few 
works   of  this  Bare  artist.  —  313,   B. 
Luini  :    an  Annunciation.  —  354,  JB. 
Crespif  called  "  il  Bustino  :'*  the  Pre- 
sentation in  the  Temple. — 355,  JEnea 
Salmeggia^  called  il  Talpino^  with  his 
name  and  the  date  1604 :  the  Virgin 
and  Child,  St.  Boch,  St.  Francis,  and 
St.  Sebastian. — 360,   Cesare  da  Sesto  : 
the  Virgin  and  Child,  with  St.  Joseph, 
St.  Joachim,  and  the  Infant  St.  John. — 
361,  Zeofiardo  da  Vinci :   the  Virgin 
and  Child,  with  a  Lamb,  an  unfinished 
work:  beautiful,  particularly  the  head 
of  the  Virgin,  supposed  to  be  a  copy 
by  G.  Fietrino. — 364,  Andrea  Salaino; 
the  Virgin  and  Child.— 366,  Ban.  Ores- 
pi  :  the  Virgin  and  Child,  with  several 
Saints. — 369,  Camillo  Procaccini :  the 
Nativity,  with  the  Adoration  of  the 
Shepherds.    The  scene  is  illuminated 
by  the  light  radiating  from  the  In&nt 
Saviour,  as  in  the  celebrated  "  Notte  " 
of  Correggio.  —  370,  Amhrogio  Bor- 
ff  Off  none :  the  Assumption  of  the  Vir- 
gin, with  the  Apostles,  and  SS.  Am- 
brose and  Augustine,   Ghervasius  and 
Protasius,  surrounded  by  Angels  and 
Cherubs ;  in  the  upper  part  the  Coro- 
nation of  the  Virgin,  blessed  by  the 
Almighty  Father. — 371,  Gfiulio  Cesare 
Procacdni:     the    Adoration    of   the 
Magi.  —  375,   Bemlacqua,  or  il  lAbe- 
rale  da  Verona  :  the  Virgin  and  Child, 
with   St.  Peter  Martyr,  and  another 
Saint,  called  by  some  King  David,  by 
others  Job,  and  a  devotee  kneeling. 
The  date  1502  is  on  the  base  of  this 
picture,  which  is  simple,  and  a  curious 
specimen  of  the  early  style  which  pre- 
ened Leonardo,  in  which  there  is  much 
of  dignity  in    the    character  of   the 
figures.  —  376,  Carlo  Francesco  NwoO' 
lone  :  a  Family,  beheved  to  be  that  of 
the  artist,  and  considered  one  of  his 
best    works.  —  37f  and   379,   C.    F. 
Nuvolone,  the  Aiigel  Q-abriel  in  the 
act    of  giving,    and    the    Virgin    in 
that   of  receiving,  the  Annunciation. 
—  378,    Amhrogio    Borgognone :     an 
Ecce    Homo. — 384,     Qio,    BatUsta 
Crespi :  the  Madonna  and  Cliild,  St. 


Dominick,  St.  Catherine  of  Sienna, 
and  manv  Angels.  The  Virgin  is  in 
the  act  of  giving  the  rosary  to  St.  Do- 
minick, while  the  Infont  Saviour  places 
a  crown  of  thorns  on  the  head  of  St. 
Catherine. — ^^385,  Oio.  BatUsta  Disce" 
polif  called  lo  Zoppo  di  Lugano :  the 
Adoration  of  the  Magi.  —  397,  iV. 
Appiani:  St.  Francis  and  a  Devotee 
kneeling ;  and  386,  the  Baptism  in 
the  Jordan. — 388  and  390,  Francesco 
Londonio  t  two  good  specimens  of  the 
Milanese  Berghem. — 389,  Francesco 
del  Cairo:  a  Head  j  believed  to  be  that 
of  the  artist. — 391,  Frcole  Procaccini : 
Christ  nailed  on  the  Cross. — 397,  JV. 
Appiani :  St.  Anthony  of  Padua  and 
a  young  Lady.  A  collection  of  Studies 
01  AnimalB  and  groups  of  Peasants,  by 
Francesco  Londonio^  a  painter  of  the 
18th  century,  celebrated  for  this  class 
of  works — ^})resented  to  the  gallery  by 
his  grand-nephew. 

The  twelfth  room  (xil.)  contains 
works  of  the  Milanese  school  of  the 
present  century.  The  best  are  studies  by 
Appianiy  landscapes  by  Gaetano  Tam^ 
bronif  but  they  offer  very  httle  interest. 
The  pretty  statue  of  the  Leggetrice,  or 
Bicading  Cfirl,  by  Magni,  so  much  ad- 
mired at  the  London  Exhibition  ml862, 
having  been  purchased  by  the  govern- 
ment, has  been  placed  here.  Opening 
out  of  this  12th  room,  we  enter  a  series 
of  halls  surrounding  the  outer  portico, 
which  contain  casts  of  ancient  and 
modem  statues,  the  prize  groups,  and 
paintings,  crowned  by  the  Academy  of 
Fine  Arts ;  some  cartoons  by  Appiani, 
San  Quirico,  Bossi,  and  of  Chado^  Ag, 
Caracci,  Donato  Oreti^  &c.  A  monu- 
ment raised  to  Longhi,  the  celebrated 
engraver,  and  another  to  Appiani,  with 
his  bust,  and  the  three  graces  in  rehef, 
by  Thorwaldsen.  In  the  last  room  are 
Ogionno's  copy  of  the  Cenacolo,  by 
Leonardo^  at  Santa  Maria  delle  Q-razzie, 
smaller  than  the  original,  and  Bossies 
verv  indifferent  one  of  it  in  oils. 

An  apartment  (xin.)  has  been  re- 
cently opened,  called  the  Galleria  Og- 
gionni,  which  contains  a  large  collec- 
tion of  second-rate  pictures,  bequeathed 
by  a  person  of  that  name,  amongst 


LoMBARDY.     Eoute  21. — MUan — The  Brera — Sculptures, 


219 


which  the  best  is  a  Coronation  of  the 
Virgin,  with  a  Dead  Ghnst  in  the  lu- 
nette above,  by  C,  CriveUiy  painted  in 
1493 ;  a  good  firesco  of  the  Virgin  and 
Child,  with  St.  Elizabeth,  by  B.  Luini ; 
and  a  small  Madonna,  by  Garofalo. 

The  Museo  Jjopidario  or  d^ArcheO' 
logia^  in  a  room  on  the  ground-floor.    It 
contains  some  ancient  inscriptions  and 
sculptures,  amongst  which  the    toirnh 
of  Bemaho   Visconti,  surmounted  by 
liis  equestrian    statue,  brought   from 
the  church  of  S.  GioTanni  in  Conca. 
He    is    in    the    fidl   armour    of  the 
age,  the  biscia,   or  viper,  being  pro- 
minently displayed  upon  his  back.    It 
is  evidently  a   good  portrait  of  this 
prince,  whose  cruelty  was  such  as  to 
convey  the  idea  that  he  was  actuated 
by  insanity.    This  is  not  the  place  to 
speak    of  the   tortures   and   horrible 
deaths    which   he  inflicted  upon  his 
subjects,    but    one    passage   will   ex- 
emplify his  ingenious  tyranny.      He 
kept  upwards  of  5000  hounds,  which 
were  quartered  upon  the  richest  citi- 
zens,  who  were  bound  to  board  and 
lodge  them.    Every  two  months  a  dog- 
inspection  was  held.    If,  in  the  opinion 
of  the  Canetero,  a  dog  was  too  lean, 
the  host  was  flned  heavily  for  having 
neglected  the  canine  inmate.      If  the 
dog  was  declared  to  be  too  fat,   then 
the  citizen  was  fined  much  more  hea- 
vily for  having  over-fed  the  dog,  and 
thus  injured  his  health.     But  tf  the 
dog  was  dead,  tlien  the  host  was  pu- 
nished by  imprisonment  and  loss  of  all 
his  property.     Eemabo  was  dethroned 
by  his  nephew  Gian  Galeazzo,  in  1385. 
The  interest  of  this  monument  is  in- 
creased by  its  being  the  earUest  mo- 
dem equestrian  statue  in  Europe.  The 
urn  of  Begina  deUa  Scala,  Bernabo's 
wife.    Many  fragments  of  sculpture  and 
architecture  from  ruined  churches  and 
monasteries ;  the   original  models  for 
the  Napoleon  bas-reliefs  of  the  Arco 
della  Pace;   B.oman  remains,  includ- 
ing  an   altar  toith  paintings  upon  it, 
said  to   have  been  found    near   San 
Lorenzo,    but   for   which    it   is    not 
being    over    sceptical    to    demand    a 
certificate  of  origin.      The  recumbent 


statue  of  Ghuton  de  Foix :  a  frag- 
ment of  his  magnificent  monument, 
the  chef-d^oBuvre  of  the  celebrated 
Agostino  Busti  or  Bambaja,  erected 
by  Louis  XII.,  when  in  possession  of 
Milan,  in  the  16th  centy.  j  it  formerly 
stood  in  the  Ch.  of  Sta.  Martha,  at- 
tached to  an  Augustinian  monastery. 
The  monument  was  considerably  ad- 
vanced in  1522,  when,  Francesco  Sforza 
regaining  his  dominions,  the  work  was 
suspended ;  and  the  church  being  after- 
wards pulled  down  for  the  purpose  of 
being  rebuilt,  it  was  broken  up  and  the 
portions  dispersed.  Other  fragments 
are  to  be  met  with  in  different  collec- 
tions, some  in  that  of  the  Marchese 
Trivulzio,  and  at  Bibhoteca  Ambro- 
siana.  Other  fine  monuments  by  Bam- 
haja  are  those  of  Lanino  Curzio,  the 
poet,  and  of  Bishop  Bagaroto.  The  fine 
mediaeval  doorway  of  Casa  Medici,  by 
Michelozzi,  curious  for  its  sculptures, 
the  bearings  of  the  Sforzas,  and  the 
portraits  of  Francesco  and  his  wife 
Bona  Visconti,  has  been  recently  re- 
moved here  from  the  Via  dei  Bossi,  as 
well  as  the  Roman  inscriptions  from 
Palazzo  Archinto,  and  several  Egyptian 
and  Byzantine  sculptures  belonging  to 
the  Academy. 

In  other  parts  of  this  palace  are  the 
usual  appurtenances  of  an  academy: 
model-rooms,  collections  of  casts,  &c. 
The  Idbraty,  of  which  the  main 
part  belonged  to  the  Jesuits,  but 
to  which  great  additions  have  been 
made,  is  very  extensive  and  well 
selected ;  better  adapted  for  general 
study  than  the  Ambrosian,  as  far  as 
printed  books  are  concerned.  The 
collection  of  manuscripts  is  not  ex- 
tensive, but  curious.  It  contains  a 
great  number  of  Chronicles  and  other 
materials  for  Venetian  history,  which 
were  brought  here  during  the  French 
occupation,  and  which  have  not  been 
sent  back  to  Venice.  Amongst  them 
is  a  copy  of  the  celebrated  "Libro 
d'Oro,"  which  the  repubUcans  burnt 
in  honour  of  hberty.  Amongst  the 
show  volumes  are  the  magnificently 
illuminated  choir-books  of  the  Certosa 
at  Pavia.     With  this  hbrary  of  manu- 


220 


EoiUe  21. — MHan — Biblioteca  Ambrosiana, 


Sect.  III. 


scripts  is  connected  a  yery  valuable  and 
select  collection  of  coins  and  medals. 
The  OhsenxitoryiOT  la  SpecoladiBrera, 
was  founded  in  1762,  under  the  direc- 
tion of  the  celebrated  Jesuit  astro- 
nomer Boscovich.  When  the  building 
was  planned,  all  the  nuns  in  the  city 
remonstrated  against  it,  alleging  that 
they  would  be  constantly  spied  at  by 
tlie  astronomers  when  walking,  as  they 
were  wont  to  do,  upon  the  terraces  of 
their  conyents.  The  Observatory  is 
well  provided  with  instruments,  and 
the  observations  annually  published  by 
its  late  director  Carhni  are  highly  ap- 
preciated by  the  scientific  world. 

Not  so  the  Botanical  Garden,  wliich 
is  very  indifferent ;  not  at  all  worthy  of 
the  institution  to  which  it  is  annexed. 

Every  year  there  is  an  "  exposition" 
of  native  art  in  the  Brera,  during  the 
autumn.  • 

The  Biblioteca  Ambrosiana. — This 
justly  celebrated  collection  was  founded 
by  the  Cardinal  Frederick  Borromeo 
(1609),  Archbishop  of  Milan.  The  li- 
brary is  under  the  direction  of  a  con- 
gregation of  ecclesiastics,  presided  over 
by  a  clerical  member,  or,  if  there  be 
none,  by  the  head,  of  the  Borromeo 
family.  The  chief  acting  officer  is  the 
Prefetto.  This  dignity  was  held  by  the 
celebrated  Cardinal  Mai,  who  was  pre- 
viously professor  of  Oriental  languages, 
and  who,  by  the  discovery  which  he 
made  of  the  palimpsests  in  this  collec- 
tion, laid  the  foundation  of  his  high 
reputation.  The  Prefetto  and  the  four 
assistant  hbrarians  or  Dottori  are  hono- 
rary canons  of  Sant'  Ambrogio.  The 
library  is  open  daily  from  10  to  3,  ex- 
cept on  Sundays  and  festivals.  The 
librarians  are  very  civil  and  attentive, 
but  the  catalogues,  according  to  the 
desire  of  the  founder,  although  good, 
are  not  communicated  to  the  pubhc : 
to  this  circumstance  may  be  attributed 
how  the  library  escaped  the  depreda- 
tions of  the  French  in  1797,  from 
the  ignorance  of  its  contents.  It 
has  been  erroneously  stated  that  the 
want  of  proper  catalogues  results  from 
the  will  of  the  cardmal  founder,  and 
that  there  is  a  pajial  bull  prohibiting 


the  making  of  them:  but  the  reason 
is  to  be  sought  in  causes  which  ope- 
rate full  as  forcibly  in  other  Ubraries. 
Cardinal  Borromeo's  regulations  were 
liberal  in  the  truest  and  largest  sense 
of  the  term.  The  Ambrosian  was,  in 
fact,  the  earliest  pubhc  library  in  Eu- 
rope ;  that  is  to  say,  a  Hbrary  not  at- 
tached to  any  college  or  cathedral  for 
the  use  of  its  own  members,  but  open 
to  all  students  or  to  the  pubUc,  and 
for  whom,  what  was  then  unexampled, 
writing  materials  were  provided. 

The  institution  consists  of  two  dis- 
tinct portions:  the  hbrary,  properly 
speaking,  composed  of  the  printed  books 
and  manuscripts,  which  is  on  the 
groimd-floor,  and  the  collections  of 
works  of  art  on  the  upper  one. 

The  Library^  distributed  over  several 
halls,  contains  at  present  about  140,000 
volumes  of  printed  books,  and  8000 
manuscripts.  Entering  from  the  great 
court  on  the  rt.  a  door  leads  into  a 
small  vestibule,  in  which  are  arranged 
busts  of  celebrated  Italians,  with  a  fine 
one  of  Lord  Byron,  by  Thorwaldsen, 
the  gift  of  the  once  fashionable  boot- 
maker of  Milan,  Bonchetti.  On  the 
floor  is  a  coarse  Soman  mosaic,  found 
on  the  site  of  a  Temple  of  Isis  at 
Milan ;  and  on  the  walls  4  bas-re- 
liefs, by  Thorwaldsen,  and  fragments 
of  sculpture  by  Bamhaja^  which  formed 
part  of  the  monument  of  Gaston  de 
Foix.  In  the  two  small  halls  open- 
ing out  of  the  vestibule  on  the  rt.  are 
arranged  the  MSS.  and  printed  books 
of  the  15th  century,  some  of  the  most 
remarkable  MSS.  being  exhibited  in 
glass  cases,  amongst  which  are  worthy 
of  notice  : — a  Virgil,  annotated  by  Pe- 
trarch, and  with  one  miniature  by 
Sunone  Memmi  representing  Virgil, 
and  allegorical  figures  to  his  works  and 
commentators,  of  great  beauty.  The 
handwriting  is  fine  and  clear.  Prefixed 
to  this  manuscript  is  the  note  in  which 
Petrarch  is  supposed  to  describe  the 
death  of  Laura.  The  manuscript,  which 
afterwards  belonged  to  Ghdeazzo  Vis- 
conti,  may  be  authentic,  but  the  note  is 
suspicious,  and  we  may  be  tempted  to 
doubt  whether  it  deserves  much  more 


liOMBAHDY.       B<mte  21. — Milan — Biblwteca  Ambrosiana, 


221 


credit  than  the  sonnet  of  Petrarch 
found  in  Laura's  tomb  at  Avignon. 
— The  autograph  correspondence  be- 
tween Cardmal  Bembo  and  Lucretia 
Borgia.  A  lock  of  her  flaxen  hair  is 
attached  to  one  of  the  letters.  Josephus 
translated  into  Latin  by  Bufinus,  who 
died  in  410,  upon  papyrus,  probably 
of  the  5th  centy. :  manttecript  books 
upon  this  material  are  of  the  greatest 
rarity.  It  is  one  of  the  first  books 
bound  in  the  modem  fonn,  and  is  sup- 
posed to  have  belonged  to  Attila. 
Homer:  fragments  of  a  manuscript, 
perhaps  of  the  4th  centy.,  with  fifty- 
eight  illuminated  miniatures,  highly 
interesting  both  for  the  art  and  the  cos- 
tume which  they  exhibit.  "  This  MS., 
with  the  Virgil  of  the  Vatican  and  the 
Book  of  Q-enesis  at  Vienna,  disputes 
the  palm  of  being  the  most  ancient 
volume  containing  illuminations  that 
has  come  down  to  our  days."  Lucano 
da  Parma's  treatise  *  De  Regimine  Prin- 
cipum,*  presented  by  Ghleazzo  Sforza 
to  Q-.  Antonio  Borella,  with  a  very 
curious  and  characteristic  portrait  of 
the  donor.  Twelve  volumes  of  heads 
of  sermons,  or  homilies,  by  San  Carlo ; 
and  his  correspondence,  filling  upwards 
of  100  vols.,  all  in  his  own  handwriting ; 
also  that  ot  Cardinal  F.  Borromeo,  not 
less  interesting. 

A  very  large  volume  filled  with 
drawmgs  by  Leonardo  da  Vinci:  a 
most  singuLar  miscellany — machines, 
ordnance  diagrams, caricatures, fancies: 
the  descriptions  are  written  by  himself 
from  right  to  left,  so  that  they  can  only 
be  read  with  fadlity  by  being  placed 
before  a  looking-glass.  There  were  ori- 
ginally thirteen  of  these  volumes,  twelve 
of  which  were  presented  to  the  library 
in  1637  by  G-aleazzo  Arconati,  after 
having  refused  3000  doubloons  offered 
for  one  volume  of  the  collection  by  the 
King  of  England,  as  we  are  told  by  an 
inscription  on  the  stairs ;  but  the  other 
twelve  have  been  retained  in  the  library 
of  the  Institute  at  Paris,  to  which  they 
were  removed  during  the  first  French 
occupation  of  Lombardy. 

Some    finely   illustrated    books    of 
Hours,  of  the  14th,  15th,  and  16th 


centuries,  amongst  which  that  of  Bian- 
ca  Sforza  is  particularly  beautiful. 

A  small  volume,  executed  at  Kome, 
with  architectural  designs  by  Bi*a- 
mante,  and  some  manuscript  descrip- 
tions, and  dedicated  to  Francis  I. 

Vite  degli  Arcivescovi  di  Milano, 
with  fine  miniatures  of  the  school  of 
Luini. 

Livy,  translated  into  Italian  by 
Boccaccio. 

The  collection  of  manuscripts  on  the 
shelves  is  of  the  highest  importance, 
Many  were  purchased  by  the  founder : 
amongst  others  those  brought  from 
the  Benedictine  monastery  of  Bobbio, 
a  religious  house  founded  by  St.  Co- 
lumbanus  and  Irish  missionaries  in 
the  7th  century.  From  this  ancient 
Coenobium  have  proceeded  several  ma- 
nuscripts of  extreme  value  to  the  Celtic 
scholar,  inasmuch  as  they  contain  some 
of  the  earliest  specimens  of  the  Gaelic 
language  in  existence.  They  consist  prin- 
cipally of  interlineary  translations  and 
commentaries  of  portions  of  Scripture, 
in  general  beautinilly  written.  Of  these 
one  of  the  most  remarkable  is  a  Psalter 
of  the  8th  centy.,  with  the  commentary 
of  St.  Jerome.  This  is  filled  with 
Gaelic  glosses,  beside  a  page  at  the  be- 
ginning, probably  containing  a  prefsice 
or  dedicatory  epistle.  The  whole  is 
in  the  ancient  Irish  character,  and  very 
legible.  A  MS.  of  the  Gospels,  with 
Gaelic  notes,  of  high  antiquity. 

A  class  of  manuscripts  which  has 
rendered  this  institution  celebrated  are 
the  palvmpsesU^  which  are  ancient 
manuscripts  written  upon  vellum,  from 
which  the  characters  of  a  previous  ma- 
nuscript have  been  rubbed  off,  or  par- 
tially effaced.  The  existence  of  this 
practice  was  long  known ;  but  Cardinal 
Mai  was  the  first  who  ever  endea- 
voured to  recover  the  classics  below 
from  the  superincumbent  strata  of 
legends  or  homilies.  The  original 
writing  is  generally  in  bold,  uncial  cha- 
racters, imperfectly  erased,  and  the 
scribes  of  the  second  period  usually 
crossed  the  older  writing,  as  ladies  do 
their  letters,  though  sometimes  they 
took  the  intervals  between  the  lines. 


222 


Eoute  21. — Milan — Btblioteca  Amhrosiana.         Sect.  Ixl.' 


Of  course  much  patience  is  required ; 
but  the  principal  difficulty  lay  in  the 
transposition  of  the  leaves,  and  it  is 
in  connecting  the  separated  leaves  that 
Mai  has  shown  his  great  skill.  Of  the 
other  manuscript  treasures  may  be 
cited,  fragments  of  a  version  of  the 
Bible,  made  a.d.  360-80,  by  Ulfila 
Bishop  of  the  Mossogoths.  The 
gospels  are  at  Upsala ;  a  portion  of 
the  epistles  was  found  at  "Wolfen- 
butteU ;  whilst  from  these  palimpsests 
Mai  has  extracted  large  fragments  of 
the  Acts  of  the  Apostles,  and  portions 
of  the  Old  Testament — a  singular 
dispersion;  and  perhaps  many  more  of 
these  Sibylline  leaves  may  be  hidden 
even  in  England.  The  letters  of  Fron- 
to  and  Marcus  Aurelius,  and  various 
fragments  of  Orations,  and  of  the  Trea- 
tise de  B>epublic4  of  Cicero,  were  also 
pubUshed  from  palimpsests  in  this 
Ubrary. 

In  one  of  these  rooms  are  exhibited, 
on  the  plan  so  usefully  adopted  in  the 
Library  of  the  British  Museum,  a  col- 
lection of  autograph  letters  of  cele- 
brated individuals,  including  some  of 
Ariosto,  Tasso,  Q-alileo,  Monti,  Grioja, 
endmg  .with  those  of  Cavour,  Oari- 
baldi,  and  Kossuth. 

The  series  of  printed  books  of  the 
15th  centy.  is  one  of  the  most  complete 
in  Europe,  amongst  which  is  the  cele- 
brated Bocaccio,  printed  at  Venice  in 
1471,  for  a  duplicate  of  which  Lord 
Spencer  paid  2000Z.,  and  which  is  now 
in  the  library  at  Althorp;  the  Am- 
brosian  Missal  and  Breviary,  and  the 
Statute  de  MUano,  printed  here  in  1470 
to  1480. 

Beyond  the  haU  of  the  museum  is 
the  winter  reading-room  for  students, 
opening  out  of  which  are  two  large 
halls  containing  printed  books  :  in  one 
is  a  monument  to  the  Marquis  Fag- 
nani,  who  bequeathed  his  library  of 
23,000  volumes  and  4000  engravings 
to  the  Amhrosiana. 

K-etuming  to  the  small  vestibule,  a 
door  leads  into  the  Gh'eat  HaU  of  the 
lAhrary,  surrounded  by  portraits  of 
illustrious  men,  chiefly  ecclesiastical 
dignitaries,  formed  by  Paolo  Gfiovio, 


and  employed  to  illustrate  his  *  Vitso 
Illustrium  Virorum.'  Out  of  tliis  is 
another  room  of  printed  books,  the 
Sala  BorromeOy  so  called  from  a  good 
monument,  by  Cacciatorif  to  the  late 
Count  Giberto  Borromeo  j  farther  on 
opens  the  Sala  della  Santa  Corona, 
which  contains  a  celebrated  fresco  by 
B.  Luinif  one  of  his  finest  works.  This 
hall,  which  was  formerly  the  place  of 
meeting  of  the  charitable  corporation  of 
La  Santa  Corona,  whose  object  was  to 
reheve  the  sick  poor  at  their  homes,  and 
which  was  suppressed  during  the  revo- 
lutionary government  in  1797,  the  room, 
was  then  given  to  the  Amhrosiana,  and 
contains  printed  books.  The  fresco  of 
Luini  covers  the  wall  of  one  of  its 
sides,  and  represents  the  Saviour 
crowned  with  thorns,  between  two 
executioners  j  on  each  side  are  groups 
of  six  members  of  the  confraternity  for 
whom  it  was  painted,  all  evidently  por- 
traits. In  a  group  above,  on  the  rt.,  be- 
tween a  man  in  armour  and  a  personage 
in  a  civil  costume,  is  an  old  bearded 
nersonage,  the  painter  himself.  The 
Wesoo  is  in  admirable  preservation,  as 
well  as  the  roof  of  the  sala,  which  is  of 
the  period  of  the  painting,  as  stated  on 
it,  Oct.  1521  to  March  1522.  _ 

Annexed  to  the  library  is  a  small 
numismatic  collection,  rich  in  coins, 
from  the  time  of  Valentinian  to  Char- 
lemagne, of  the  Lombard  dukes  and 
sovereigns,  to  the  period  of  the  Sforzas 
(1450). 

Ascending  to  the  first  floor  we  reach 
the  collection  of  works  of  art.  In  the 
entrance  room  is  an  extensive  series  of 
etchings  and  engravings  from  the  ear- 
nest period,  the  arrangement  far  from 
satisfactory.  The  Great  Sail  of  the 
Paintings  follows,  some  of  which  are 
remarkable  : — An.  Caracci,  70,  a  copy 
of  Correggio's  Assumption,  at  Parma ; 
Pa^rmigianino,  82,  the  Annunciation; 
II  MorettOy  81,  St.  Peter  Martyr; 
Luinif  86,  a  design  in  crayons  of  the 
Angel  and  Tobias;  Mantegna^  91,  a 
sketch  in  chiaroscuro  of  Daniel  in  the 
Lion's  Den;  Hemmeling,  96,  a  very 
interesting  painting  of  the  Virgin  and 
In&nt    Saviour;    JB.  Luini^  105,  St. 


JLiOjjIbardy.      Soute  2l.*^-Milan — BibUoteca  Ambrosiana, 


223 


John  the  Baptist ;  Michel  Angela  (?) 
X07,  Head  of  an  Old  Man ;  2>.  Oc*p», 
117,  Portrait  of  S.  Carlo,  and  119,  SS. 
Sruno  and  Ambrose ;  in  a  gUss  case 
is  a  collection  of  12  miniature  subjects, 
by  Migliara. 

Sail  of  the  School  of  Athens. — ^First 
of   all   is  the  celebrated  cartoon   by 
Kaphael  for  the  fresco  in  the  stanze 
at  the  Yatican :    it  is  executed  with 
black  chalk  on  grey  paper,  and  con- 
tainfi  the   figures    only,  without  the 
architecture.     "  It  is  one  of  the  most 
interesting  examples  of  the  nature  and 
extent  of  the  alterations  introduced  in 
a  composition  prepared  for  fresco.  The 
changes    are  mostly  additions.     The 
figure  of  Epictetus,  represented  in  the 
fiasco,  sitting  in  the  foreground  on  the 
left,  leaning  his  head  on  his  hand,  is 
wanting  in  the  cartoon.    This  figure 
wa«  added  to  fill  up  a  vacant  space, 
and  thus  the  change,  though  a  consi- 
derable improvement,  involved  no  in- 
convenience.     Some    less    important 
alterations  in  the  same  fresco,  such  as 
covering  the  head  of  Aspasia  with  dra- 
pery instead  of  showing  her  flowing 
tresses  (for  thus  she  appears  in  the 
cartoon),  might  have  been  made  on 
the  wall  without  any  change  in  the 
drawing.     That  this  cartoon  was  the 
identical  one  which    served    for    the 
execution  of  the  fresco  is  proved  by 
the  exact  conformity  of  every  part, 
except  the  additions  above  mentioned, 
with  the   painting." — JEastlaJce,     In 
other  parts  of  this  room  are   several 
good  paintings : — Piazza  da  JOodi,  143, 
the  Virgin  adoring  the  Infeint  Saviour ; 
Jjeonardo  da  Vinci,  152, 153,  Portrait 
of  Ludovico  il  Moro  and  his  wife  Bea- 
trice d'Este ;  Otiido,  166,  a  fine  Cruci- 
fixion;   Titian,  169,  the  portrait  of 
Gian    GKacomo    Trivulzi;     170,    the 
Adoration  of  the  Shepherds,  painted 
for  a  Cardinal  d'Este,  as  a  present  to 
Francis  I.  of  France,  but  purchased  by 
S.  Carlo,  by  whom  it  was  given  to  his 
nephew,   Card.    Federigo    Borromeo ; 
171,  the  Deposition  by  Joseph  of  Ari- 
mathea ;  175,  portrait  of  the  Doge  Ci- 
cogna  of  Venice.     In  addition  to  the 
paintings,  the  collection    of   original 


drawings  here  is  most  important — 
nearly  150  by  Leonardo  da  Vinci, 
amongst  which  one,  No.  177,  a  portrait 
of  his  pupil  Francesco  Melzi,  and  nu- 
merous remarkable  caricatures. 

Beyond  this  Hall  of  the  School  of 
Athens  is  a  smaller  one,  in  the  centre 
of  which  is  a  model,  in  gilt  bronze,  of 
the  Porta  Orientale,  as  projected  by 
Cagnola:  the  walls  are  covered  with 
original  drawings.  The  Profile  of  Leo- 
nardo  da  Vinci,  by  himself,  in  red 
chalks. — Two  drawings  by  Ca/ravaggio, 
our  Saviour  appearing  to  Mary  Mag- 
dalene:  and  some  fine  studies  by  B. 
Luini  and  Cesare  da  Sesto, — Raphael, 
two  Men  on  Horseback,  an  early  work, 
1505. — Many  studies,  by  Michael  An- 
gelo,  for  his  Last  Judgment.  Two  ex- 
quisite portraits  in  red  chalk,  by  L.  da 
Vinci.  Also  by  him,  three  portraits :  the 
profile  of  Beatrice  d'Este,  who  died  in 
childbirth  at  27,  and  whose  monument 
is  in  the  Certosa  of  Pavia.  Head  of 
St.  John:  a  drawing  of  part  of  ^he 
Triumph  of  Juhus  Casar,  by  Man' 
tegna.  The  Annunciation,  attributed 
to  Parmigiamno.  Sandro  Botticelli: 
Madonna,  Child,  and  Angels ;  B, 
Luini:  Holy  Family;  a  masterpiece, 
and  the  design  for  which  is  attri- 
buted to  2/.  da  Vinci.  L.  da  Vinci : 
beautiftd  Portrait  of  a  Physician, 
half  figure.  Here  are  also  drawings  by 
CUtUio  Bomano,  Caravaggio,  Michael 
Angelo,  Alb.  Durer,  Mantegna,  Cht^T' 
cino,  Imca  CambiasOj  the  two  Luinis, 
Raphael,  Leon,  da  Vinci,  &c.  &c. ;  and 
a  portion  of  BaphaeVa  cartoon  for  the 
painting  of  the  battle  between  Constan- 
tino and  Maxentius,  in  the  Stanze  at  the 
Vatican. 

A  cabinet  has  been  formed  for  the 
gilt  bronzes  left  by  E.  Pecis  to  the 
library.  This  cabinet  also  contains 
two  of  Holbein's  portraits  j  one  of 
Henry  VIII.,  the  other  of  Calvin. 
Basaiti :  our  Saviour  with  a  standard. 
GHorgione :  St.  Sebastian,  frdl  length, 
with  Rome  in  the  background.  Oiulio 
Clovio :  a  good  miniature  painting  of 
the  Conversion  of  St.  Paul.  Mengs : 
Portrait  of  Clement  XIII.  Velasquez : 
a  portrait.   Bronzino:  a  portrait,  called 


224 


Eoute  21. — Milan — Great  Hospital. 


Sect.  III. 


B.  Cellini.  Lucas  van  Lei/den :  Adora- 
tion of  the  Magi.  Albani:  G-alatea 
borne  by  Dolplmis.  Carlo  Dolce :  a 
Madonna.  JB.Luini:  St.  John.  Guer- 
cino :  the  Toilette  of  Yenus. 

In  an  adjoining  room  have  been 
recently  arranged  several  paintings 
bequeathed  to  the  municipaUty  by 
Count  Bolognini. 

In  a*  small  room  opening  out  of  the 
Grreat  Gallery  are  several  paintings  by 
Breughel  and  Paul  Brill,  and  a  good 
portrait  of  a  nobleman,  by  II  Morone  : 
leading  to  the  last  hall  of  the  Pinaco- 
theca,  which  contains  objects  of  a  mis- 
cellaneous character,  some  cartoons  bv 

C.  Procaccini;  ivory  works  by  Man- 
fredo  Settala,  celebrated  in  this  branch 

of  art ;  the  dagger  used  by  the  assassins 
of  GHan  Maria  Visconti  in  the  Piazza 
di  San  Grottardo ;  the  gloves  worn  by 
Napoleon  at  Waterloo ;  and  some  very 
uninteresting  specimens  of  natural  his- 
tory. 

Attached  to  the  Ambrosian  Library 
is  a  printing-office,  of  works  in  the 
Oriental  languages,  founded  by  Card. 
Borromeo,  and  under  the  direction  of 
Signor  Corirfni,  one  of  the  dottori^  or 
imder  librarians. 

On  the  stairs  and  in  the  court  of  the 
Ambrosiana  are  some  Koman  and 
Christian  inscriptions  from  the  Cata- 
combs ;  and  in  a  small  garden  towards 
the  piazza  the  tin  palm-tree,  or  aloe, 
which  Lalande,  in  his  description  of 
Italy,  has  cited  as  a  proof  of  the  mild- 
ness of  the  climate  of  Milan. 

Among  the  scientific  estabUshments 
at  Milan,  the  most  remarkable  is  the 
Museo  Civico  di  Storia  NaturaZe, 
in  a  large  palace  on  the  Giardino  Pub- 
lico, which  contains  a  very  good  and 
remarkably  well-arranged  collection  of 
Zoology  (that  of  the  serpents,  and  of 
reptiles  in  general,  is  one  of  the  most  im- 
portant in  Europe)  and  Paleontology  : 
the  latter  is  particularly  rich  in  fossils 
from  the  tertiary  Subapennine  forma- 
tions of  the  duchies  of  Parma  and  Pia- 
cenza.  The  museum  is  liberally  en- 
dowed and  supported  by  the  munici- 
paUty,  which  deserves  the  greatest  credit 
for  the  encouragement  it  hasgiven  to  the 


teaching  of  science,  and  of  natural  his- 
tory in  particular.  The  extensive  col- 
lections of  the  suppressed  Scuola  delle 
Miniere,  consisting  of  fossil  remains  of 
gigantic  animals,  found  S.  of  Parma 
and  Piacenza,  and  purchased  by  the 
Viceroy  E.  Beauhamois,  and  of  the 
fossil  tertiary  shells  described  by 
Brocchi  in  lus  classical  Conchiologia 
Fossile  Subapenninay  have  been  re- 
cently removed  to  the  Museo  Civico, 
The  Q-reat  HaU  of  the  palace,  conyerted 
into  a  lecture -room,  has  its  walls 
covered  with  frescoes  by  Tiepolo.  The 
museum  is  open  from  9  to  3  daily. 

Ospedale  Maggiore^  or  Great  Hos- 
pital of  Milan. — This  splendid  esta- 
blishment was  founded  by  Francesco 
Sforza,  and  his  duchess  Bianca  Maria, 
in  1456.  They  gave  for  its  site  an 
ancient  palace  which  had  belonged  to 
Bemabo  Visconti.  The  frmds  for  its 
raamtenance  were  partly  suppHed  by 
the  duke  and  his  consort,  and  partly 
by  the  union  of  the  endowments  of 
several  other  hospitals  previously  exist- 
ing in  the  city.  To  these  have  been 
added  from  time  to  time,  and  still 
continue  to  be  added,  legacies  and  do- 
nations of  the  Milanese,  who  have 
a  great  affection  for  the  institution, 
which  has  had  an  unusual  exemption 
from  spoUation  in  every  poUtical  vicis- 
situde. The  building  was  begun  on 
the  4th  of  April,  1457,  the  first  stone 
being  laid  by  the  hands  of  the  duke 
and  duchess.  Antonio  Filarete,  a 
Florentine,  was  the  architect ;  the 
southern  portion  of  the  edifice  was 
alone  executed  from  his  designs.  The 
ground-plan  of  this  original  portion  of 
the  foundation  is  a  square,  the  central 
space  being  the  grand  quadrangle. 
The  windows  of  the  fa<jade  are  beau- 
tifully ornamented  with .  reUefs  of 
children  and  foHage  in  moulded  terra- 
cotta; and  the  numerous  niches  and 
lunettes  contain  busts  of  Saints  and 
allegorical  figures.  The  central  portion 
of  the  hospital  is  also  of  moulded  brick, 
but  was  erected  at  a  later  period,  in 
1621,  by  a  donationfrom  a  liberal  citizen, 
Gian  Pietro  Carcano.  The  architects 
were  Fabio  Mangone  and  F.  Richini. 


LOMBA-RDY. 


Boute  21. — MUan — Squares, 


225 


On  entering  by  the  Great  G-ate- 
way,  a  very  noble  quadrangle  pre- 
sents itself:  it  is  surrounded  by  a 
double  colonnade,  having  21  arches  on 
two  sides,  and  19  on  the  others :  the 
columns  of  the  upper  order  are  compo- 
site, of  the  lower  modem  Ionic,  with 
archivolts  and  entablatures  ornamented 
with  arabesques  and  figures  in  high  re- 
lief, forming  circular  mediJllions,  from 
the  designs  of  Camillo  Procaccini.  The 
upper  colonnade  has  been  partly  walled 
in  to  gain  space ;  on  three  sides,  that 
towards  the  street  is  open,  as  originally 
designed;  the  lower  is  formed  by  80 
columns  of  red  granite.  This  quad- 
rangle measures  250  ft.  by  280,  not 
including  the  depth  of  colonnade,  which 
is  19  ft.  In  the  small  church  oppo- 
site the  entrance  is  a  good  Annunci- 
ation, by  Ghuercmo.  In  1797  G-iuseppe 
Macchi,  a  notsury  who  had  led  the  life 
of  a  miser,  left  an  immense  propei^ty  to 
the  hospital,  by  means  of  which  it  was 
competed.  The  N.  wing  is  from  the 
design  of  CastelU,  who,  unfortunately, 
abandoned  the  style  of  the  earUer  part 
of  the  building,  so  that  this  Yring  is 
out  of  keeping  with  the  rest.  The 
average  number  of  patients  admitted 
annually  is  about  20,500  ;  the  deaths, 
2700 ;  the  mean  mortaUty  being  13  per 
cent.  The  hospital  can  accommodate 
2400  patients,  but  has  seldom  more 
than  1600.  Monuments  have  been 
raised  under  the  porticoes  of  the  great 
quadrangle  to  Rasori,  Locatelli,  and 
other  eminent  medical  teachers  who 
were  attached  to  the  establishment. 

The  Ogpizio  Trivulzi  is  a  noble  mo- 
nument of  Milanese  charity.  It  was 
founded  in  1771  by  Antonio  Trivulzio, 
who  gave  up  his  palace  for  the  purpose. 
The  endowment  has  since  received  very 
considerable  additions,  and  the  building 
has  been  recently  enlarged  to  nearly 
double  its  original  size.  It  now  contains 
600  inmates,  all  above  seventy  years  of 
age,  who  are  well  fed  and  clothed  at  the 
expense  of  the  institution. 

Milan  contains  as  many  as  85  hos- 
pitals and  institutions  of  charity,  pos- 
sessing property  to  the  amount  of  200 
millions  of  francs — 8  millions  sterling. 

N.  Italy— imQ, 


The  vast  Lazaretto,  just  outside  the 
Porta  Orientale,  is  interesting  both 
from  its  magnitude  and  from  the  recol- 
lection of  the  scenes  which  have  been 
witnessed  within  its  walls.  It  con- 
sists of  a  quadrangle  of  red  brick ; 
measuring,  outside  the  arcade,  404J 
yds.  by  393.  From  these  arcades  sur- 
roundijig  the  quadrangle  opened  280 
small  rooms  or  cells  ;  in  the  centre  is 
a  chapel  designed  by  Fellegrim,  and 
possessing  much  beauty.  This  buildhig. 
was  founded  by  Lodovico  il  Moro  about 
1461,  when  governing  in  the  name  of 
his  nephew  Gian  Galeazzo,  but  not 
completed  till  the  end  of  the  15th  een-- 
tury.  It  was  the  scene  of  some  of  the 
finest  episodes  of  the  Fromessi  Sposi. 
The  quadrangle  is  now  cut  through  by 
the  line  of  rly. 

Milan  lias  few  squares.  The  largest  is 
the  Piazza  della  Fontana,  in  front  of 
the  archbishop's  palace.  In  it  is  one 
of  the  few  fountains  in  Milan.  The 
Piazza  Borromeo  has  a  statue  of  San 
Carlo,  by  Bussola,  formerly  in  the 
Cardusio;  it  stands  in  front  of  the 
small  ch.  of  Santa  Maria  Podone,  be- 
longing to  the  Borromeos,  whose  pa- 
laces form  two  sides  of  the  piazza.  The 
Piazza  del  Marino,  with  the  handsome 
palace  of  that  name  on  one  side,  and 
the  neWly  opened  Piazza  della  Soala, 
opposite  the  theatre,  with  the  Palazzo 
Prambilla,  a  remarkable  specimen  of 
modem  decoration  in  terracotta  and 
moulded  brick  -  work.  The  Piazza 
Cavour,  between  the  Porta  Nuova  and 
the  Giardino  PubUco,  has  a  bronze 
statue  of  the  great  minister,  by 
Tabacchi,  a  Milanese  sculptor,  raised 
by  public  subscription.  The  projected 
Piazza  del  Duomo,  in  front  of  the  Ca- 
thedral, will  be  one  of  the  finest  open 
squares  in  the  city,  or  perhaps  in 
Europe,  when  finished. 

There  were  formerly  many  crosses 
and  similar  monuments  in  the  streets 
and  crossways,  but  most  of  them  have 
been  removed.  Of  those  that  remain, 
the  "  Leone  di  Porta  Orientale^^  a 
small  column  in  that  street,  is  the 
principal.  It  is  said  to  commemorate 
some  victorjt  gained  by  the  Milanese 

M 


226 


Boute  2 1 . — Milan — Palaces, 


Sect.  III. 


over  the  Venetians;  but  the  lion  is 
not  the  lion  of  St.  Mark. 

Of  older  street  architecture,  the 
principal  relic  is,  the  Coperto  de* 
Mffini,  in  the  Piazza  del  Duomo.  It 
was  built  by  Pietro  Figini,  in  honour 
of  the  marriage  of  Gian'  Galeazzo 
Visconti  with  Isabella. t)ie  daughter  of 
Jolin  King  of  France.  The  Q-othic 
arches  remain :  the  upper  stories  have 
been  modernised.  TMs  part  of  the  city 
will  soon  be  pulled  down  to  extend  the 
fine  Piazza  before  the  Cathedral. 

Palazzo  Trivulzi. — Built  by  the  Mar- 
quis Alessandro  Trivulzi.  Here  is  a 
yery  select  and  valuable  library  of 
printed  books  and  manuscripts,  and  a 
choice  collection  of  coins,  and  of  Q-reek, 
Koman,  and  mediseval  antiquities,  in- 
cluding the  monument  of  Azzo  Vis- 
conti, formerly  in  the  CJhurch  of  San 
G-ottardo  at  Milan.  There  are  also 
some  good  pictures. 

Palazzo  Andrianif  now  Sormani. — 
The  garden  is  one  of  the  largest  in 
Milan.  In  the  collection  in  tliis  man- 
sion .  is  a  pleasing  Ma/idegna,  —  the 
Virgin  and  Child  between  St.  John  and 
St.  Maiy  Magdalene;  and  a  Midas, 
probably  by  the  same  artist, 

Casa  PiancaGonifoxks  a  very  precious 
series  of  portraits  of  the  Sforza  femily 
in  fresco  by  JJuiniy  all  apparently  taken 
from  originals. 

Casa  Punti,  10,  Via  dei  Belli,  a 
portion  of  the  Casa  Tavema,  has  an 
open  com*t  painted  throughout  by 
jff.  Luini;  between  the  windows  are 
full-length  figures  of  the  Muses  ; 
below  each  window  is  a  circular  medal- 
lion with  a  Cupid ;  and  in  the  oblong 
panels  between,  groups  of  children  in 
mimic  combat,  the  treatment  of  which 
is  yery  gracefiil  and  spirited. 

Casa  Melzi. — A  large  library,  and 
some  good  modem  pictures. 

There  is  another  Ca^a  Melzi  in  the 
Borgo  Nuovo,  originally  the  house  of 
the  painter  Bra/mawtino^  who  has  left 
some  frescoes  in  what  is  now  a  coach- 
house ;  and  in  the  court  is  a  good  fresco 
of  an  Atlas  suj^orting  a  Globe,  by  B. 
Jyuini,  in  his  last  and  best  manner. 

Palazzo  Idtta.—^Thia  was  built  by 


JlicJiinii  and  is  one  of  the  finest  in 
Milan.  Here  was  a  small  collection  of 
paintings,  most  of  which  have  been 
sold;  there  are  some  modem  paint- 
ings by  Appiani  and  others,  worthy  of 
notice.  The  great  saloon  is  splendidly 
fitted  up  in  the  style  of  Louis  XIV. 
There  is  also  a  valuable  library  of 
30,000  vols,  in  this  palace. 

Palazzo  MaHno,  forming  the  S.  side 
of  the  Piazza  della  Scala,  now  the  resi- 
dence of  the  municipal  body,  is  a  fine 
edifice,  from  the  designs  of  Galeazzo 
Alessi ;  it  was  built  at  the  expense  of 
Tomasso  Marino,  but  has  long  be- 
longed to  the  government,  being  used 
for  public  offices,  until  the  mimicipality 
recently  removed  into  it. 

Palazzo  Vtsmaray  in  the  Via  de'  Bossi. 
This  house,  which  was  given  to  Cosimo 
de'  Medici  in  1456  by  Francesco  Sforza, 
is  supposed  to  have  been  the  seat  of 
a  branch  bank  of  that  celebrated 
Florentine  family  in  the  15th  century. 
The  fine  doorway  by  Michelozzi,  for- 
merly here,  lately  purchased  by  the 
municipality,  has  been  removed  to 
the  Mediaeval  Museum  in  the  Brera 
(p.  219). 

In  the  neighbouring  Via  dei  Filodra- 
matici  (No.  1810),  forming  the  entrance 
to  a  small  theatre,  is  a  good  pointed 
gate  in  marble,  having  over  it  a  relief 
bust  of  Francesco  Sforza,  with  those  of 
Alexander  the  Great  and  Julius  Caesar. 
The  arabesques  are  fine,  especially  on 
the  jambs  of  the  gateway,  where  the 
triple  feather,  one  of  the  heraldic  cog- 
nizances of  the  Medicis,  like  that  of 
oiur  Prince  of  Wales,  may  be  seen. 

Palazzo  Borromeo. — The  exterior  is 
one  of  the  few  remaining  specimens  of 
the  Gothic  style,  having  belonged  to 
the  family  since  1444 :  the  interior  is 
modernised,  and  contains  a  fine  col-  . 
lection  of  minerals,  formed  originally 
by  Breislack,  and  a  valuable  series  of 
paintings  by  B.  Luini.  On  the  banish- 
ment of  this  noble  family,  arising  out 
of  the  events  of  1848,  the  palace  had 
been  seized  upon  and  converted  into  a 
barrack  by  the  Austrian  authorities. 
This  palace,  now  restored,  has  been  held 
by  the  family  for  upwards  of  400  years. 


LOMBARDY. 


jRoute  21. — Milan — Theatres. 


227 


JPalazzo  Pozzi. — This  palace  was  de- 
signed and  built  by  Leone  Leoni,  of 
Arezzo,  a  capital  medallist  or  die-sinker. 
lieone  was  a  sculptor  and  an  architect, 
and  much  patronised  by  Charles  V.,  by 
whom  he  was  knighted.  Hence  he  is 
often  called  "II  Cayaliere  Aretino."  He 
became  very  opulent ;  and  this  building 
is  a  monument  of  the  riches  he  had 
acquired,  as  well  as  of  his  genius.  It 
is,  howeyer,  rather  odd  than  elegant : 
colossal  statues  support  the  front,  to 
which,  the  Milanese  have  given  the 
name  of  Omenoni  (t.  e,  big  men),  and 
to  account  for  which  there  are  many 
'  strange  stories. 

Theatres. — Milan  is  of  all  the  cities 
in  Italy  the  most  celebrated  for  its  the- 
atres and  theatrical  amusements  ;  the 
principal  house  is  La  Scala,  so  called 
from  its  having  been  erected  upon  the 
site  of  the  Church  of  St.  Maria  della 
Scala.    It  was  built  from  the  designs 
of  Piermarini,  and  was  opened  in  the 
autumn  of  1779.     It  contends  with 
8.    Carlo    at  Naples    for    being    the 
largest  theatre  in  Italy,  and  has  always 
be^  admired  for  the  excellence  of  its 
internal  arrangements.    The  house  is 
capable  of  containing  3600  spectators. 
The  number  of  boxes  in  each  row  is 
41 :  each  has  a  small  room  attached 
to  it ;  the  greater  number  are  private 
property.    The  form  of  the  house  is 
a  semicircle,  with  the  ends  produced 
and   made  to   approach  each  other ; 
the  greatest  width  is  72  ft.,  the  length,  \ 
including  the  proscenium,  that  is  to 
say,  from  the  front  of  the  centre  box 
to  the  curtain,  is  954  ft>    The  width 
of  the  opening  between  the  colimins 
of  the  proscenium  is  54  ft.,  and  the 
depth  ot  the  stage  behind  the  curtain 
is  150  ft.    This  theatre  also  contains 
a  Sala  di  Sidotto,  where  concerts  are 
given,  and  masked  balls  during    the 
Carnival. 

The  other  Royal  Theatre  is  La  Cano- 
Uatia,  connected  by  a  species  of  via- 
duct with  the  palace.  It  was  built 
from  the  designs  of  Fiermarifd,  and 
opened  in  1780.  The  pit  contains  450 
seats,  and  the  house  will  hold  2200 
spectators. 


These  two  Boyal  Theatres  are  under 
one  management,  and  receive  an  annual 
subvention  from  the  government,'  sub- 
ject to  the  expense  of  maintaining  the 
Academy  of  Dancing.  The  theatrical 
year  is  divided  into  three  seasons ;  the 
Carnival,  which  extends  from  St.  Ste- 
phen's day  to  the  20th  of  March ;  the 
spring,  from  Easter  to  the  end  of  June ; 
the  autumn,  from  .the  beginning  of 
September  till  the  end  of  November. 

Teatro  Carcano. — This  Theatre  was 
built  in  1803,  from  the  designs  of 
Canonical  on  the  site  of  the  Monastery 
of  S.  Lazzaro.  Every  part  of  the  in- 
terior is  constructed  oi  wood ;  it  is  in 
the  form  of  a  horseshoe,  with  a  convex 
ceiling,  and  it  is  considered  very  favour- 
able for  heai'ing.  The  pit  contains  300 
seats,  and  the  house  can  hold  1800 
spectators.  Operas  and  comedies  are 
performed  here. 

Teatro  i2c,  near  the  Piszzadel  Duomo, 
was  built  in  the  year  1812,  by  Carlo  Be, 
from  the  designs  of  Canonica,  It  stands 
on  thcv  site  where  the  Archpriest  Dateo, 
in  787,  erected  the  church  of  San  Salva- 
tore,  and  the  first  foundUng  hospital 
that  ever  existed.  The  comedies  of  Q-ol- 
doni,  Nota,  &c.,  are  often  well  repre- 
sented here.  The  pit  holds  120,  and  the 
whole  house  is  capable  of  containing 
1000  spectators. 

Teatro  Mlodramatico,  —  Antolini, 
in  the  theatre  which  he  designed  for 
the  Foro  Bonaparte,  declared  his  in- 
tention to  banish  everything  by  which 
the  attention  is  distracted,  and  that  he 
would  not  therefore  have  boxes  as  a 
retreat  for  noisy  chattering.  He  said 
the  audience  would  behave  and  attend 
better  if  every  one  was  seen,  and  that 
pretty  women  would  not  have  to  com- 
plain of  being  shut  up  in  cages -where 
they  were  half  hidden.  These  classical 
opinions,  wliich  were  called  repubUcan, 
prevailed  when  the  Teatro  dei  Filo- 
drammatici  was  built  from  the  designs 
of  Polack  and  Canonical  on  the  site  of 
S.  Damiano  alia  Scala,  and  it  hence  re- 
ceived the  appellation  of  "patriotico." 
The  pit  contains  245,  the  open  boxes 
630  persons.  The  tickets  of  admission 
are    distributed   gratuitously   by  the 

h2 


228 


Eoute  21. — Milan — Plan  for  visiting. 


Sect.  in. 


members,  who  form  a  regular  aca- 
demical body,  have  a  school  of  de- 
clamation, and  giye  prizes.  The  com- 
pany is  entirely  composed  of  amateurs, 
young  men  engaged  in  trade  or  in  the 
public  offices,  and  young  women  be- 
longing to  respectable  famihes  of  the 
city.  Actors  who  have  appeared  in 
pubUc  are  not  allowed  to  play  on  this 
stage.  Vincenzo  .Monti,  Carlo  Porta, 
and  other  distinguished  authors  and 
actors,  appeared  here,  and  in  it  Pasta 
commenced  her  career. 

Teatro  FiandOy  Fantoccini^  Mario- 
netti  or  Pu^ppets.  —  Tliis  theatre  was 
built  by  one  Fiando,  from  the  design 
of  Canonica,  in  the  Oratorio  or  Chapel 
of  Bellarmine.  It  is  called  also  the 
Teatro  Girolamo,  from  the  comic 
character  who  always  appears  as  one 
of  the  principal  personages  in  every 
drama  represented  here.  Girolamo 
is  a  Piedmontese  from  the  Duchy 
of  Montferrat,  always  frightened  and 
hungry,  but  jesting  and  babbling.  The 
performances  are  exceedingly  droll  and 
amusing,  consisting  usually  of  a  play, 
which  is  apt  to  be  very  pathetic,  and  a 
ballet.  But  strangers  will  not  hear 
there  the  language  and  humour  of  the 
people,  as  in  the  San  Carlino  at  Naples. 

The  Qiardino  Publico  is  a  handsome 
public  promenade  near  the  Porta  Nuo- 
va,  from  which  it  is  entered  by  the 
Piazza  Cavour,  in  which  a  statue  to 
that  great  statesman  has  been  placed 
by  pubHc  subscription.  It  has  been 
recently  enlarged  and  extended,  and 
very  handsomely  laid  out,  with  water- 
courses, and  a  handsome  circular  build- 
ing erected  in  the  centre  for  a  cafe- 
restaurant.  The  large  palace  on  the 
W.  side  has  been  recently  fitted  up  to 
receive  the  Museo  Civico  of  Natural 
History. 

Amongst  the  places  of  amusement 
are  three  club-houses  :  the  Casino  delV 
Unioney  in  a  fine  apartment  over  the  | 
Cafe  Cova,  near  the  Tlieatre  of  La  Scala  . 
(the  most  aristocratic),  and  the  Casino 
dei  Negozianti,  called  also  Societa  del , 
GiardinOi  in   the  Via   di  San   Paolo. 
Bothcontain  reading-rooms,  ball-rooms, 
coffee-rooms,  and  the  like.   The  CaHno 


degU  Artisti  is  on  the  same  system  as 
our  English  clubs. 

The  Galleria  de  Cristqferisy  a  species 
of  Burlington  Arcade,  forming  a  pas- 
sage between  the  Corso  di  Vittorio 
Emmanuele  and  the  Yia  del  Monte, 
contains  some  good  shops,  coffee- 
houses, &c.  &c.  A  new  gallery  on  a 
magnificent  scale  is  in  progress  of  con- 
struction, in  the  form  of  a  Greek  cross ; 
it  will  extend  from  the  Piazza  della 
Scala  to  that  of  the  Duomo,  and,  Ynih. 
the  enlargement  of  the  latter  square, 
will  form  a  most  important  embellish- 
ment to  this  already  beautiful  city. 

Plan  for  visiting  the  Sights  of  Milan 
in  3  dags, 

Ist  day. — Duomo  ;  Bojal  Palace ; 
Archbishop's  Pal. ;  Ch.  of  San  Fedele 
and  Piazza  di  Marino ;  Piazza  della 
Scala;  Brera  Gallery,  Library,  and 
other  Collections;  Ch.  of  S.  Marco; 
Cli.  of  S.  SimpUciano;  Arena;  Arco 
della  Pace ;  Castello. 

2tid  dag. — Ch.  of  San  Carlo ;  Piazza 
dei  Tribunali ;  Chs.  of  Maurizio  Mag- 
giore,  of  San  Tomasso ;  Palazzo  Litta ; 
Chs.  of  Sta.  Maria  delle  Grazie,  of  S. 
Vittore,  of  S.  Ambrogio ;  Piazza  Bor- 
romeo ;  Ambrosian  Library ;  Chs.  of 
S.  Giorgio,  S.  Satiro,  S.  Giovanni  in 
Conca;  Pal.  Trivulzi;  Ch.  of  S.  Ales- 
sandro. 

2rd  dag. — Chs.  of  S.  Lorenzo  and 
S.  Eustorgio;  Porta  Ticinese;  Chs.  of 
La  Madonna  di  S.  Celso,  SS.  Celso  and 
Nazzaro,  S.  Paolo,  and  S.  Eufemia; 
Great  Hospital;  Chs.  of  S.  Stefano,  S. 
Bernardino,  S.  Pedro  in  Gressate,  Sta. 
Maria  della  Passione;  Giardino  Pub- 
blico  ;  Museo  Civico,  Piazza  Cavour; 
Corso  di  Vittorio  Emanuele,  and  Boule- 
vard; Lazzaretto. 

In  the  neighbourhood  of  Milan^  be- 
sides the  places  described  upon  the 
different  routes,  the  following  may  be 
noticed  : —  About  3^  m.  &om  the 
Porta  di  Magenta,  and  on  the  1.  of  the 
high  road  leading  to  Vercelli,  near  a 
village  called  Quarto  Cagnino,  is 

LiwtemOf  memorable  as  the  solitude 


LOMBARDY. 


JRoute  22. — Milan  to  Varese, 


229 


to  whicli  Petrarch  retired  after  the 
death  of  Laura,  and  where  he  composed 
his  poetical  lamentations  for  her  loss. 
Its  original  name  was  Inferno,  or  In- 
vemo ;  but  the  laureate,  out  of  love 
for  Cicero,  changed  it  into  the  classical 
lAwtenvu/nby  the  retreat  of  Scipio. 

No  one  should  neglect  to  visit  the 
Certosa  of  Pama  (Ete.  23)  who  can 
possibly  manage  it. 


ROUTE  22. 

MILAN  TO  TABESE,  BY  SAEONXO. 

About  34  m..  DiUgences  run  by 
this  route  daily,  performing  the  dis- 
tance in  4  hours ;  persons  may  leave 
by  it  in  the  morning,  visit  Saronno, 
and  return  from  Varese  at  3J  p.m.; 
there  is  also  a  diligence  to  Saronno 
only,  leaving  Milan  at  2^  p.m.,  and  re- 
turning every  morning;  but  the  tra- 
veller whose  object  is  to  visit  Varese 
only  will  find  it  more  convenient  to 
take  the  train  to  Gallarate,  to  which  a 
rly.  from  Milan  now  extends.  Regular 
conveyances  leave  Varese  to  meet  each 
train,  the  whole  distance  being  per- 
formed in  3  hours.  It  is  proposed  to 
carry  this  rly.  to  Varese,  Laveno, 
Luino,  and  Lugano. 

The  road  to  Saronno  leaves  Milan 
by  the  Porta  Tanagha,  passing  through 
the  Suburb  degli  Ortolani.  A  road 
which  turns  off  to  the  rt.,  at  a  short 
distance  from  the  gate,  leads  to  the 
Palazzo  delta  Simonetta,  noted  for  its 
remarkable  echo.  The  front  presents 
three  colonnades,  one  over  another, 
with  arches  and  small  columns,  and 
paintings  in  the  cinquecento  style. 
The  interior  is  not  remarkable.  The 
fa96ide  towards  the  garden  was  con- 


structed with  a  very  intricate  arrange- 
ment of  angles,  and  from  a  window  on 
the  second  floor,  on  the  1.  hand,  is  an 
;  echo  which  is  said  formerly  to  have 
repeated  the  sound  of  the  discharge  of 
a  pistol  50  times.  An  alteration  in  the 
building  has  diminished  its  powers, 
but  the  echo  will  still  repeat  a  clear 
sharp  soimd  nearly  30  times. 

3^  m.  frt)m  the  Porta  Tanagha,  and 
about  ^  m.  on  the  1.  of  the  road,  is 
the  village  of  Q-aregnano,  near  which  is 
the  Certosa  of  Garegnano,  a  once  cele- 
brated Carthusian  monastery,  in  the 
midst  of  a  territory  which  the  labours 
of  the  monks  reclaimed.  It  was  founded 
by  the  Archbishop  Otho  Visconti,  Lord 
of  Milan.  The  conventual  builfhngs  are 
desecrated ;  the  church  contains  some 
frescoes  by  Crespi,  Those  on  the  walls 
represent  the  principal  events  of  the 
life  of  St,  Bruno,  those  on  the  ceihng 
subjects  from  the  New  Testament. 
Some  have  been  much  injured  by  the 
wet  penetrating  when  the  lead  was 
stripped  off  the  roof  in  1796. 

CaronnOk — In  the  parish  church  are 
some  frescoes,  attributed  to  Aurelio 
Luinif  the  son  of  Bernardino, 

Saronno,  about  15  m.  from  Milan : 
on  the  rt.-hand  side  of  the  road  is 
the  church  of  the  Santuario  delta  Ma' 
donna  di  Saronno.  It  is  close  to  the 
posthouse,  and  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  road  is  an  inn,  where  beds  and  a 
fair  dinner  may  be  had.  The  town  of 
Saronno  itself  lies  ^  m.  distant  to  the 
east.  This  church  contains  celebrated 
works  in  fresco,  by  Gaudenzio  Fer- 
rari  and  Bernardino  Luini,  in  excel- 
lent preservation.  It  was  commenced 
in  1498,  from  the  designs  of  Vincenzo 
'detV  Orto.  The  campanile,  the  cupola, 
the  high  altar,  and  the  two  side  chapels, 
were  erected  by  Paolo  Porta,  in  the 
16th  century.  The  fa<^ade,  which  is 
overloaded  with  ornament,  was  built  in 
1666,  from  the  design  of  Carlo  Buzzi. 
Owing  to  this  change  of  architects  the 
iaterior  is  somewhat  irregular.  The 
cupola  is  "painted  in  fresco,  by  Q^m^ 
denzio  Ferrari,  The  subject  is  the^ 
heavenly  host  playing   upon  vapi/ 


280 


Eoute  22, — Saronno, 


Sect.  III. 


instrumentB,  with  a  circle  of  cherubs 
aboTe  them  singing.  Below  is  a  series 
of  painted  statues,  in  12  niches,  two 
figures  in  each,  consisting,  for  the  most 
part,  of  Prophets  and  Sibyls,  as  Sibylla 
Delphica  and  David,  &c. ;  24  in  all ; 
there  are  also  groups  representing  the 
Calvary,  the  Last  Supper,  &c. 

Below,  in  circles  in  the  pendentives, 
are  eight  subjects  from  Genesis, — the 
Creation  of  Eve  j  Eating  the  Forbidden 
Emit ;  the  Expulsion  from  Paradise 
(much  injured)  j  Tilling  the  Ground 
after  the  Fall ;  Adam  and  Eve  in  the 
Garden,  very  fine;  Abel  tending  his 
flocks ;  the  Kemorse  of  Cain ;  and 
Adam  blessing  his  posterity :  these  are 
also  by  Ferrciri.  The  lunettes  below 
are  by  JJanini.  All  these  frescoes  may 
be  more  easily  seen  from  the  gallery 
which  runs  round  three  sides  beneath 
the  cupola.  In  that  part  of  the  church 
which  connects  the  nave  and  the  choir 
are  two  large  frescoes  by  Luiniy  the 
Marriage  of  Joseph  and  Mary  on  the 
l.-hand,  and  Christ  disputing  with  the 
Doctors  on  the  rt.  On  the  wall  on  the 
l.-hand  side  of  the  high  altar  is  the 
Presentation  in  the  Temple,  with  a 
view  of  the  Ch.  of  Saronno,  and  oppo- 
site is  the  Adoration  of  the  Magi.  These 
4  large  frescoes  are  well  preserved,  and 
are,  according  to  Lanzi,  among  the 
greatest  of  his  works ;  and  certainly 
they  are  very  superior  to  anything  at 
Milan,  with  the  exception,  perhaps,  of 
one  or  two  small  portions  of  fresco  in 
the  Brera ;  for  instance,  (34)  in  the  en- 
trance hail,  the  body  of  St.  Catherine 
carried  by  3  Angels  to  the  Sepulchre. 

The  4  great  frescoes  of  Luini  in  the 
ch.  of  Saronno  afibrd  admirable  exam- 
ples of  this  style  of  painting,  and  are 
in  excellent  preservation  :  in  the  Ado- 
ration of  the  Magi,  perhaps  the  best  of 
the  four,  the  Virgin  and  Child  are  ex- 
quisite examples  of  that  union  of 
beauty  and  tenderness  which  distin- 
guishes Luini*  s  best  works ;  the  heads 
of  the  two  kneeling  kings  are  admirable, 
and  the  transparency  of  the  colours 
throughout  afibrds  the  best  example  of 
fresco-painting.  In  the  Christ  disputing 
with  the  Doctors,  although  the  figures 


of  our  Saviour  and  the  Virgin  are 
wanting  perhaps  in  dignity,  the  whole 
is  finely  conceived ;  the  heads  of  the 
Doctors  are  admirable.  Luini' s  own 
portrait,  which  he  has  introduced,  is 
very  fine.  In  the  fresco  of  the  Marriage 
of  the  Virgin  the  principal  figure  is 
perhaps  too  much  of  a  Venetian  cha- 
racter, and  wanting  in  youth  and  sim- 
plicity. All  these  paintings  have  been 
published  by  the  Arundel  Society. 

There  are  many  smaller  frescoes  by 
Luini  on  the  walls  and  ceiling  of  the 
choir ;  amongst  others,  the  Evangelists, 
and  the  four  Doctors  of  the  Churdi 
(which  have  been  retouched),  with  St. 
Catherine,  and  St.  Apollonia ;  and  two 
Angels  remarkable  for  the  transparency 
of  their  colours.  In  the  sacristy  is  a 
picture  by  G.  C.  Procaccini.  On  the 
wall  of  the  cloister  leading  fr^m  the 
church  to  the  priest's  house  is  a  Na- 
tivity by  Luini.  He  was  paid  for  the 
single  figures  of  saints  a  sum  corre- 
sponding to  22  frs.,  and  received  be- 
sides wine,  bread,  and  lodging.  For 
the  other  works  he  was  paid  so  much 
a-day,  together  with  bread  and  wine,  and 
was  so  well  pleased  with  his  pay  that  he 
painted  this  last  fresco  for  nothing. 

Beyond  Saronno  the  level  of  the 
country  rises,  and  the  road,  after  pass- 
ing through  Mozzate,  Carbonate,  and 
TradaUy  a  large  village,  where,  on  a 
hill,  are  the  remains  of  an  ancient 
castle,  crosses  the  Olona,  [a  short  way- 
lower  down  the  river  is  the  village  of 
Castiglione  di  Olona,  an  interesting 
place  from  its  mediaeval  remains,  but 
chiefly  for  the  frescoes  by  Massolino  da 
Panicale  recently  discovered  in  one  of 
the  churches  and  baptistery :  they  were 
executed  about  a.d.  1448  for  Card. 
Borgia  in  the  choir,  and  represent  in- 
cidents in  the  life  of  the  Virgin,  St. 
Lawrence,  and  St.  Stephen,  to  whom 
the  ch.  was  dedicated.  In  one  of 
the  paintings  is  the  portrait  of  the 
Cardinal,  and  the  painter's  name  M<mo- 
liwus  de  Florentia^  pinxit.  Massolino 
painted  also  the  adjoining  Baptistery 
with  scenes  from  the  life  of  the  Precur- 
sor ;  the  two  principal  subjects  being, 
Salome    preferring    her    request    to 


LOMBARDY. 


Eoute  23. — MUan  to  Genoa, 


231 


Serod,  and  Herodias  receiving  £rom  her 
daughter  the  head  of  the  Baptist.  C. 
di  O.  is  about  half-way  between  Sa- 
ronno  and  Varese]  from  which  there  is 
a  continuous  ascent  to 
2  Varese,     See  Eoute  18. 


ROUTE  23. 

MILAN  TO  GENOA,  BY  PAVIA, 
BY  RAILWAY. 


KIL. 


Milan  to 

Rogoredo     .    .    . 

t 

LoQite  .... 

15 

Villamaggiore 

20 

La  Certosa  .    .    . 

28 

Piivia 

36 

&   V«  V  ■*•    •             •             •             •             ■ 

Cava  rSarbonara   . 

43 

Zenasco  ....    49 
Pieve  Alblgnola  .  .  52 


Sannazzaro 
Ferrera  . 
Lomello  . 
Mede  .    . 
Casteilaro 


,    6Y 

60 
,  67 
,  71 
,    76 


w 


4> 


^^  jTorreberettl  79 
**- <Alexaudria.  100 
'^'f  Genoa    .    .  176 


This  journey  is  now  performed  by 
rly.  in  5  or  6  hrs.  j  4  trains  daily,  the 
best  at  8-40  A.M.,  arriving  at  Genoa  at 
1-30  P.M. 

Persons  wisliing  to  visit  the  Certosa 
from  Milan  can  easily  do  so  by  starting 
by  the  morning  train  about  8*40,  and 
proceeding  from  the  Certosa  to  Pavia 
by  the  next  about  2-20,  which  will  give 
them  time  to  visit  the  notabilia  of  that 
city,  and  to  return  the  same  evening, 
or  to  proceed  to  Gtenoa  by  an  afternoon 
train.  Thwe  is  a  small  cafe  restaurant 
near  the  rly.  station,  where  visitors  can 
obt^un  refireshment  and  await  the  de- 
parture of  the  trains. 

On  leaving  Milan  the  road  soon 
separates  from  the  line  to  Venice  by 
TrevigUo,  and  4  m,  farther,  at  Bogeredo, 


the  rly.  to  Piacenza,  by  Melegnano  and 
Lodi,  branches  off  on  the  1.  From 
here  to  La  Certosa  the  line  crosses  a 
perfectly  flat,  highly  fertile  country, 
the  greater  part  of  the  land  being 
laid  out  for  meadow  purposes :  it 
is  traversed  by  numerous  canals  for 
irrigation.  The  traveller  will  observe 
the  numerous  Fontanili  or  Artesian 
wells  on  a  small  scale,  by  the  side 
of  the  way,  formed  by  sinking  a  barrel 
to  an  inconsiderable  depth  through  the 
alluvial  soil  to  where  it  meets  a  natural 
nappe  of  pure  spring  water,  which 
thus  flows  to  the  surmce,  and  at  all 
seasons  furnishes  a  large  supply  for  the 
purposes  of  irrigation. 

[By  the  carriage  -  road  quitting 
Milan  by  the  Porta  Ticinese,  we 
enter  what  may  be  termed  the 
most  Flemish  portion  of  the  plain 
of  Lombardy.  Meadows,  rich  in  clover, 
yield  two  or  three  crops  a  year ;  thick 
rows  of  saUows  and  poplars  bespeak 
the  humidity  of  the  soil,  luxuriant 
even  to  rankness.  On  either  side  are 
frequent  transverse  or  longitudinal 
cuts  and  canals.  Of  these,  the  largest 
is  the  Naviglio  di  Pavia,  com- 
pleted during  the  French  occupa- 
tion, wliich  joins  the  Ticino  at  Pavia. 
The  road  skirts  this  canal  all  the 
way.  From  the  gate  of  Milan  to 
Pavia,  the  canal  descends  182  ft.  8  in. ; 
there  are  13  locks,  the  whole  descent 
of  which  is  167  ft.  8  in. ;  leaving  for 
the  descent  of  the  canal  alone  15  ft. 
The  length  is  20^  m.,  the  breadth 
42^  ft.  At  first  it  forms  a  considerable 
stream,  but  is  continually  giving  off 
part  of  its  waters  for  the  purposes  of 
irrigation,  and  becomes  very  sluggish 
on  its  arrival  at  Pavia. 

About  4  m.  on  rt.  of  the  station  of 
Villamaggiora  is 

JBinascOi  on  the  carriage-road  from 
Milan  and  the  NavigUo,  a  town  of  5000 
Inhab.,  remarkable  for  its  castle,  much 
modernised,  still  exhibiting  the  shield 
of  the  Viscontis.  It  was  in  this  ca?tle 
that  the  unhappy  Beatrice  di  Tenda, 
widow  of  Facino  Cane,  and  wife  of 
Duke  FUippo  Maria,  was,  bv  his  orders, 
beheaded  in  the  night  of  September 


232 


Rcmte  2Z.  —  Certosa  of  Pavia, 


Sect.  III. 


13th,  1418.  Beatrice  was  a  lady  of 
irreproachable  virtue ;  but,  in  the 
agonies  of  the  torture,  she  confessed  to 
the  crime  of  infidelity  imputed  to  her 
by  the  Duke  ;  or,  as  some  say,  she 
was  convicted  by  the  false  testimony 
of  OrombellOi  who,  accused  as  her  para- 
mour, inculpated  her  in  the  hopes  of 
saving  his  own  life,  but  in  vain.  Bea- 
trice had  been  not  only  a  most  aflFec- 
tionate  wife,  but  a  wise  and  faithful 
counsellor  to  her  husband,  to  whom 
she  brought  vast  domains ;  and  it  is 
difficult  to  account  for  his  conduct. 
He  was  much  addicted  to  astrology, 
and  a  probable  conjecture  is,  that, 
timid  and  cruel,  some  prediction  that 
Beatrice  would  cause  his  death  insti- 
gated liim  to  the  crime.] 

17  m.  from  Milan  is  the  Certosa 
stat.,  which,  although  within  a  few 
hundred  yards  of  the  ch.,  is  a  quarter 
of  an  hour's  walk,  from  the  circuit 
necessary  round  the  outer  wall  of  the 
monastery  grounds. 

La  Certosa  of  Favia,  commonly 
called  the  Certosa  delta  JBeata  Ver- 
gine  delle  Gh'azie,  the  most  splendid 
monastery  in  the  world,  founded  by 
Gian  Qtileazzo  Visconti,  the  first  Duke 
of  Milan.  It  was  built  by  him  as  an 
atonement  for  guilt,  to  reheve  his 
conscience  of  the  murder  of  his  uncle 
and  father-in-law,  Bemabo  Visconti, 
and  liis  family,  who,  having  by  trea- 
chery made  lumself  master  of  Milan, 
he  sent  to  the  castle  of  Trezzo,  where 
they  were  poisoned.  The  founda- 
tion was  laid  8th  September,  1396. 
25  Carthusian  monks  were  appointed 
to  take  charge  of  this  sanctuary,  and 
executed,  down  to  their  expulsion  in 
1782,  the  task  imposed  on  them,  of 
augmenting  the  glory  of  the  Madonna, 
by  adding  to  the  beauty  of  the  Certosa. 
From  1782  to  1810  the  Certosa  was 
occupied  by  other  orders,  and  in  the 
latter  year  it  was  finally  closed.  Ex- 
aggerated reports  have  prevailed  of  the 
subsequent  neglect  of  this  splendid 
monument;  blame,  however,  must  be 
thrown  on  the  RepubUcan  authorities, 
by  whose  order,  in  1797,  the  lead  was 
strip'ped  from  the  roof.     The  monks 


were  re-established  in  1843,  and  the 
building  is  now  well  cared  for,  and 
kept  in  good  order,  by  the  produce  of 
the  monks'  garden  and  casu^  offerings, 
and  for  more  extensive  repairs  by  the 
munificence  of  some  wealthy  Milanese 
famiUes,  the  principal  source  being  a 
legacy  of  about  6000  frs.  by  the  late 
Count  Mellerio,  who  also  left  his  li- 
brary to  it ;  Httle  is  dobe  by  the  G-o^ 
vemment.  There  were  in  May,  1863,  be- 
tween monks  and  novices,  32  inmates. 

Ladies  a^e  admitted  into  the  nave 
and  side  chapels  as  far  as  the  railing 
before  the  high  altar^  but  are  not 
allowed  to  enter  the  choir^  transits, 
sacristies^  library,  or  the  cloisters. 

The  gateway  or  principal  entrance 
to  the  monastery  is  covered  with  fres- 
coes, attributed  to  S,  Luini.  Its  front 
towards  the  road  is  a  spacious  arch, 
flanked  by  two  pilasters,  and  crowned 
with  a  widely  projecting  but  low  roof, 
beneath  which  are  also  numerous  fres- 
coes, the  best  of  the  Annunciation. 
They  are  all  much  injured  by  exposure 
to  the  weather. 

Through  this  vestibule  a  quadran- 
gular court  (109  yds.  long,  45J  yds. 
wide)  is  entered,  the  handsome  build- 
ing on  the  rt.  is  the  Forasteria,  where 
visitors  in  the  prosperous  days  of  the 
monastery  were  liberally  received  and 
entertained,  and  at  the  opposite  end  is 
the  gorgeous  fa9ade  of  the  church, 

l3ie  architect  of  the  church,  except- 
ing of  the  front,  is  said  to  have  been 
Heinrich  von  Q-munden,  or,  as  the 
Italians  write  it,  Enrico  da  Gamodia, 
the  same  who  began  the  Cathedral  of 
Milan  eleven  years  previously,  although, 
from  documents  recently  discovered,  a 
certain  Bernardo  da  Venezia  appears 
to  have  been  the  architect.  "  The 
style  of  the  edifices  is  so  difierent  as 
almost  to  preclude  the  possibility  of 
their  being  the  productions  of  one  man; 
the  present  ofiers  no  indication  of  the 
taste  of  our  northern  artists,  while  the 
cathedral  above  mentioned  abounds 
with  them."  —  Woods.  The  outer 
walls,  the  buttresses,  the  wide  niches 
on  the  exterior  of  the  transept,  and  the 
dome  are  of  the  fine  brickwork  pecu 


LOMBARDY. 


JRoute  23, — Certosa  of  Pavia. 


233 


liar  to  the  Lombard  buildings  of  that 
epoch:  the  interior  and  fa9ade  are  of 
marble.     Ambrogio  da  Fossano^  called 
BorgognonCy  known  also  as  an  excellent 
painter,  designed  the  richly  decorated 
faqade,  which  was  begun  in  1473.    "  It 
is  an  inunense  heap  of  Httle  parts,  in 
the    taste  of   the    cinque-'eentOy   often 
beaatiful  in  themselves,  but  leaving  no 
impression  as  a  whole,  except  an  unde- 
fined sentiment  of  its  immense  prodi- 
gality of  riches."-^  Jc?.   This  front  rises 
from  an  extensive  platform  of  three 
steps :  four  pilasters  and  two  square 
turrets,  corresponding  with  the  general 
internal  arrangement,  divide  it  into  five 
spaces  of  nearly  equal  breadth ;  upon 
these  spaces  that  profusion  of  sculpture 
is   displayed  which  forms  one  *of  the 
principal  features  and  attractions  of 
this  edifice.    The  central  portion  is  oc- 
cupied by  a  richly  decorated  doorway 
or  great  entrance,  formed  of  an  arched 
roof  resting  upon  four  isolated  Corin- 
thian columns ;  above  this  is  a  kind  of 
triforium  of  the  Tuscan  order,  extending 
over  the  whole  front,  and  serving  as  a 
base  to  a  sort  of  shrine,  on  the  frieze  of 
which  is  the  dedication  to  "  Mary  the 
Virgin,mother,  daughter, bride  of  G-od." 
A  second  triforium,  extending  over  the 
three  central  divisions,  terminates  the 
front,  which,  after  all,  it  appears  was 
never  finished.  The  otherwise  inevitably 
striking    defect    of    accumulation    of 
objects  is  much  lessened  by  openings 
judiciously  introduced  j  and  where  the 
play  of  light  and  shade  which  is  the 
result  was  unattainable,  the  artist  has 
produced  the  same  effect  by  stained 
marbles. 

Each  of  the  pilasters  and  turrets  is 
adorned  with  six  statues;  the  master- 
pieces, however,  of  sculpture  on  this 
Ia9ade  are  to  be  found  on  and  about 
the  portico,  and  the  four  beautiful  win- 
dows near  it.  The  bas-reUefs  on  the 
walls  of  the  central  doorway  represent, 
on  the  rt.-hand  side,  the  laying  the 
foundation  of  the  church ;  on  the  1.  the 
fimeral  procession  bringing  the  body 
of  Giovanni  Galeazzo  to  the  Certosa 
(Nov.  9,  1443)  ;  and  above,  Pope 
Alexander  III.  granting  a  charter  to 


the  Carthusian  order,  and  the  conse- 
cration of  the  church.  The  small  bas- 
reHefs  represent  actions  of  St.  Am- 
brose, St.  John  Baptist,  St.  Sirus,  and 
the  Virgin,  and  are,  according  to  Cicog- 
nara,  "oltre  ognicredere  degni  d*  am- 
mirazione."  The  base  is  full  of  curious 
medallions,  with  heads  of  classic  heroes 
and  Koman  emperors,  sacred  and  pro- 
&ne  personages,  intermixed  with  arms, 
trophies,  &c. 

Many  first-rate  artists  contributed 
to  the  works  in  sculpture  of  the 
Certosa;  among  whom  were  G-iov. 
Ant.  Amadeo,  ioidr.  Eusina,  Agostino 
Busti,  named  il  Bambaja,  Marco 
Agrate,  Gian  G-iacomo  della  Porta,  and 
Christofano  Solari,  called  il  Gobbo, 
to  whom  are  ascribed  the  exquisite 
chiseUings  in  the  candelabra,  between 
the  windows,  and  the  bas-reliefs  on 
each  side  the  door. 

Interior. — ^The  plan  of  the  church 
is  a  Latin  cross,  of  which  the  length 
is  249  ft.,  and  the  width  173.  The 
nave  has  four  square  divisions,  each 
subdivided  on  the  vault,  aifd  with 
oblique  and  perpendicular  groins.  The 
groining  of  the  side  aisles  is  singular, 
each  space  being,  in  fact,  covered  with 
five  unequal  pointed  groins,  meeting  in 
a  common  centre.  Beyond  the  side 
aisles,  are  ranges  of  7  chapels  on  each 
side,  two  of  which  opening  into  each 
square  division  of  the  nave.  The  choir 
and  arms  of  the  cross  have  each  two 
square  divisions,  so  that  there  are  seven 
on  the  whole  length  of  the  church,  and 
five  on  that  of  the  transept.  The  8 
statues  before  the  pillars  of  the  nave 
represent  the  4  Evangelists  and  the 
Doctors  of  the  Church  5  they  are 
works  of  the  best  artists  of  the  16th 
centy.  Bich  bronze  gates  divide  the 
nave  from  the  transept.  Every  part  of 
the  interior. is  most  richly  decorated. 
The  altars  are  inlaid  with  pietra-dura 
work,  executed  in  the  finest  manner, 
and  in  which  the  most  rare  and  costly 
materials  are  employed.  Many  good 
paintings  which  were  in  the  church  have 
been  removed.  The  best  of  those  which 
remain  are — :1st  chapel  on  the  rt., 
Borgognone^  small  fresco  over  a  door  j 

H  3 


284 


Moute  23. — Ce^^osa  of  Pavia. 


Sect.  III. 


the  Madonna,  and  Angels  adoring  the 
infant  Saviour ; — 2nd,  dedicated  to  St. 
Hugh  of  Lincohi,  Oiavan*  Oiacomo 
Fava,  called  also  Macrino  SAlba,  a 
very  rare  master,  1496,  an  altar-piece 
in  six  compartments,  2  of  which  are 
by  Borgognone; — Srd,  Carlo  Comctra, 
S.  Benedict,  in  a  vision,  sees  his  sister 
Sta.  Scolastica  ascending  to  heaven, 
dated  1668  ; — 4th,  Borgognone,  Christ 
on  the  Cross,  with  the  Maries  at 
the  foot,  a  very  interestmg  picture  on 
panel;  —  5th,  the  altar-piece,  of  St. 
Sirus  enthroned  and  the  fresco  in  the 
vaulting,  are  by  Borgognone  j  and  a 
stained  glass  window,  representing  St. 
Michael,  by  Antonio  di  Fandino  ; — 
6th,  the  altarpieoe  of  this  chapel  is  by 
OttercinOy  it  represents  St.  and  St.  Paul 
adoring  the  Virgin  and  Child.  On  the 
other  side  of  the  nave,  in  the  2nd 
chapel  from  the  W.  end,  is  an  altar 
once  decorated  with  paintings  in  sLi 
compartments,  all  by  IHetro  Perugino. 
Of  these  only  one  remains.  It  is  in  the 
centre  of  the  upper  row,  and  represents 
God  the  Father  holding  a  globe  sur- 
mounted by  cherubim.  The  4  Doc- 
tors of  the  Church,  attributed  to  Bor- 
gognone, on  either  side,  replace  two 
paintings  carried  away  in  1796  by  the 
French ;  the  lower  range,  consisting  of 
figures  of  the  Virgin,  of  the  Arch- 
angel Saphael^  and  of  Tobias,  are  old 
copies  of  the  originals,  which  are  n,ow 
in  the  National  G-allery  in  London, 
having  been  purchased  by  the  British 
Government  for  4000Z.  of  Duke  Melzi, 
whose  ancestor,  one  of  the  active 
agents  of  the  Cisalpine  republic,  had 
obtained  possession  of  them.  In  the 
6th  chapel  are  a  splendid  painting,  St. 
Ambrose  on  a  tluK)ne  with  4  other 
Saints,  by  Borgognone,  and  an  Annun- 
ciation by  JEJ.  Frocaccini. 

The  transepts, — In  the  S.  transept 
is  the  tomb  of  Gian*  Galeazzo,  the 
founder,  designed  by  Galeazzo  Fel- 
legrino,  in  1490,  but  not  completed  till 
1562.  Many  artists  of  unequal  merit 
worked  upon  it  during  this  long  period. 
Over  his  statue,  recumbent  upon  a  sar- 
cophagus, rises  a  canopy,  of  the  richest 
cinqueoento    workmanshipi      Observe 


the  trophies  upon  the  pilasters.  In 
the  second  story  are  six  fine  historical 
bas-reliefs: — Gian'  Galeazzo  receiving 
the  baton  of  command  from  his  father 
— his  creation  as  Duke  of  Milan  by 
the  Emperor  Wenceslaus — his  founda- 
tion of  the  Certosa — the  like  of  the 
Citadel  of  Milan — his  victory  over  the 
Imperialists  at  Brescia  (1402) — and 
the  refoundation  or  dotation  of  the  uni- 
versity of  Pavia.  These  are  attributed 
to  Oio.  Ant,  Amadeo.  Other  parts  are 
said  to  be  by  Oio,  Cfiac.  della  Forta. 
It  seems  from  the  inscription  that  the 
monument  was  constructed  by  Gian^ 
Gristoforo  jRomano ;  the  statues  of  Fame 
and  Victory,  at  the  extremities  of  the 
tomb,  are  by  Bernardino  da  Novi. 
That  of  the  Virgin  and  Child  is  by  Ber^ 
nardino  de^  Brioschi.  The  monument, 
however,  was,  in  a  manner,  executed  tone 
purpose.  Gian'  GtJeazzo  died  at  Marig- 
uano,  3rd  Sept.  1402 ;  and  bis  funeral 
was  celebrated  with  extraordinary  pomp 
in  the  Cathedral  of  Milan.  Afterwards 
the  body  was  removed  to  the  Certosa, 
but  the  place  where  it  had  been  interred 
was  completely  forgotten  when  this 
monument  was  set  up. 

At  the  end  of  the  S.  transept  is  tlio 
altar  of  S.  Bruno,  on  the  vault  above 
which  is  a  fresco,  representing  the  family 
of  Gian*  Gtileazzp  Visconti  on  their 
knees  before  the  Virgin :  he  is  oifering 
her  a  model  of  the  church,  Filippo 
kneels  behind,  and  his  two  other  sons, 
Giovanni  and  Gabriele  Maria,  on  the 
opposite  side.  This  fresco  is  by  Bra- 
mawtino,  by  whom  are  also  the  4  saints 
on  each  side  of  the  aroh,  and  the  angels 
on  the  entablature  above,  supporting 
shields  on  which  the  arms  of  the  Vis- 
contis  are  blended  with  the  mottoes  of 
the  Carthusians.  Here  also  are  two 
fine  bronze  candelabra,  by  Fontana,  and 
some  brilliant  stained  glass. 

In  the  N.  tra/nsept  are,  the  monu- 
ments of  the  unfortimate  Ludovico 
il  Moro,  and  of  his  beloved  wife, 
Beatrice  d'Este.  She  was  a  lady  of 
singular  talent  and  beauty;  and  hav- 
ing died  in  childbirth,  Jan.  2,  1497, 
he  caused  this  monument  to  be  erected 
at  an  expense  of  50^000  ducatsi     Her 


LOMBARDY. 


JRoute  23, -^Certosa  of  Pavia, 


235 


body  was  interred  here ;  but  the  monu- 
ment was  first  placed  in  the  church  of 
St.  Maria  delle  Grrazie  at  Milan,  and 
remoTed  here  in  1564.  Both  are  said  to 
be  by  Solaris  and  are  finely  executed : 
the  costume  is  curious.  Before  the 
altar,  at  the  end  of  the  N.  transept,  are 
also  two  fine  candelabra,  by  Fontana ; 
and  in  the  apse  frescoes,  by  Sorgo- 
r^none. 

The  choir. — The  fine  wooden  doors 
with  intaglios,  and  bas-reliefs  repre- 
senting the  principal  events  of  the  life 
of  S.  Bruno,  are  by  Virgilio  de^  Conii  ; 
and  the  intarsiatura  work  in  the  seats 
by  ScMrtolomeo  da  Fola,  1486,  repre- 
senting heads  of  the  Apostles  and 
saints ;  the  fine  balustrade,  on  which 
btand  4  bronze  candlesticks,  is  by  Fon- 
iana^  as  also  the  bas-reUefs  on  the 
walls,  on  each  side  of  the  altar,  and  the 
richly  adorned  high  altar.  Some  of 
the  bas-reliefs  here  are  very  fine ;  those 
before  the  altar  and  on  the  credence 
table  are  by  Stefano  di  Sesto.  The 
frescoes  which  cover  the  choir  are  the 
last  work  of  2>.  Crespi. 

By  the  side  of  the  altar,  which  is  at 
the  end  of  the  S.  transept,  is  the  en- 
trance into 

The  Sagrestia  Nova^  a  very  fine 
hall  covered  with  frescoes  by  Pietro 
Sorri  (1600).  Here  is  an  excellent 
altar-piece,,  the  lower  part  hj  And/rea 
Solari,  the  upper  by  Bernardo  Campi. 
The  pictures  on  each  side  are  by 
Solari.  J5.  Luini,  St.  Ambrose, 
and  St.  Martin  dividing  his  cloak  | 
with  the  Beggar.  —  Morazzone,  S. 
Teresa  with  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul. — 
Montagna^  the  Virgin  with  2  saints  and 
a  Choir  of  Angels. — Some  small  paint- 
ings, St.  Peter,  St.  Paul,  and  angels, 
are  by  Borgognone,  Near  the  Sagrestia 
Nova  are  the  two  Chapter-houses, 
which  would  be  fine  halls  any  where 
else :  they  contain  no  remarkable  works 
of  art. 

The  Lavatory i  Lavatoio,  or  Lavacro 
di  Monad,  on  the  S.  side  of  the  choir, 
opens  out  of  the  S.  transept.  Above 
the  richly-sculptured  doorway  are  seven 
medallions  of  Duchesses  of  Milan.  Over 
the  Lavatory  fountain  is  a  bust  of  the  ar- 


chitect of  the  ch.,  probably  5er»flr6?o  da 
Venezia,  Observe  also — Alberto  Car- 
rara, two  bas-rehefs,  the  Kiss  of  Judas, 
and  the  Washing  of  the  Feet  of  the  Dis- 
ciples.— B.  Luiniy  a  fresco,  of  the  Vir- 
gin and  Child,  the  latter  holding  a 
flower.  The  stained  glass  is  by  CristO' 
foro  di  Moiis,  1477 ;  a  very  beautiful 
work.  From  here  we  may  ascend  to 
the  roo^  and  examine  the  construction 
of  that  part  of  the  building.  A  door 
leads  from  the  Lavatory  into  the  ceme- 
tery of  the  monks. 

The  Sagrestia  Vecchia,  on  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  choir. — Over  the  door 
are  fine  medallions  of  the  Dukes  of 
Milan ;  and,  on  each  side,  a  Choir  of 
Angels,  by  Amadeo,  considered  amongst 
his  best  productions.  The  Sacristy  cor- 
responds in  style  with  the  Lavatory : 
in  it  is  a  curious  ancient  altar-piece, 
worked  in  the  ivory  of  the  teeth  of  the 
hippopotamus,  containing  67  basso- 
rilievos  and  80  small  statues — all  sub- 
jects from  the  New  Testament,  by  Ber- 
nardo degli  Ubbriachi.  Several  paint- 
ings ;  the  best  are  a  portrait  of  Card. 
Colonna,  by  Guido,  and  a  St.  Augustin, 
by  BorgognoTM, 

Opening  out  of  the  S.  transept  is  the 
Chiostro  delta  Fontana,or  small  cloister 
of  50  round  arches,  in  which  may  be 
noticed  numerous  bas-reliefs  of  terra- 
cotta over  the  arches  and  on  the  frieze, 
much  prized  by  Cicognara:  Children 
playing  upon  musical  Instruments. 
The  doorway  of  white  marble,  leading 
from  the  church,  is  a  masterpiece  of 
Amadeo's.  On  the  S.  side  is  the  Lavaboy 
or  fountain,  from  which  it  takes  its 
name.  The  fine  bas-rehef  over  it,  re- 
cently restored,  represents  our  Lord 
and  the  Woman  of  Samaria. 

From  the  Chiostro  della  Fontana,  a 
passage  on  1.  side  of  which  opens  the 
Library,  now  replenished  by  a  bequest 
of  Count  Mellerio,  we  enter 

The  greai  cloister  is  412  ft.  long 
by  334  ft.  wide.  The  arches  are  of 
moulded  brick,  in  the  finest  cinque- 
cento  style.  Three  sides  are  surrounded 
by  24  cells  of  the  monks.  Each  is  a 
separate  dwelling,  containing  4  good- 
sized  rooms^  2  above  and  2  below,  with 


236 


Jtoute  23, — Pavia — Duomo. 


Sect.  III. 


a  small  garden  behind  and  a  covered 
walk.  On  the  side  of  the  doors  are 
small  wickets  by  which  the  monks  re- 
ceive their  mej^  from  the  general 
kitchen,  the  rules  of  the  order  being 
that  they  only  meet  and  dine  together 
in  the  great  refrectory,  which  is  on  the 
W.  side  of  the  Chiostro  deUa  Fontana, 
on  Sundays  and  on  certain  great  fes- 
tivals. 

A  beautiful  work  on  the  Certosa, 
containing  architectural  drawings  of 
the  building,  and  minute  details  of 
its  various  parts  and  rich  decorations 
(about  70  plates),  has  been  published 
by  the  brothers  Q-aetano  and  Francesco 
Durelli  of  Milan. 

A  brief  description  of  the  Certosa, 
Visita  alia  Certosa  cU  Pavia,  may  be 
procured  from  the  cicerone  charged 
by  the  prior  to  show  strangers  over  it. 
The  monks  depend  much  upon  the 
donations  of  travellers ;  visitors  there- 
fore ought  to  be  liberal. 

The  large  enclosed  garden  behind 
the  monastery,  which  is  surrounded  by 
a  high  wall,  is  let  for  3000  frs.  a  year, 
which  are  applied  exclusively  to  the 
repairs  and  restorations  of  the  ch,  and 
convent. 

The  battle  of  Pavia,  Feb.  24,  1525, 
in  which  Francis  I.  was  taken  prisoner 
was  fought  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  | 
Certosa. 

From  the  Certosa  stat.  the  rly.  runs 
parallel  to  the  NavigUo  to  near  the 
gate  of  Pavia,  where  it  crosses  the  Canal, 
continuing  to  the  Porta  di  Borgorata, 
outside  which  is  the 

8  kil.  Pavia  Stat.,  15  minutes*  walk 
from  the  Piazza.  Carriages  and  omni- 
bus to  the  different  hotels  will  be  found. 
{Inns :  La  Croce  JBianca,  in  the  Corso, 
or  principal  street,  the  best,  but  dirty  : 
Albergo  del  Pozzo,)  Pop.  30,000. 
Pavia  la  DoUa  was  the  capital  of  the 
Lombard  kings,  and  the  gloomy  Cas- 
tello  is  supposed  to  stand  on  the  site  of 
their  palace.  The  present  building,  how- 
ever, was  raised  in  1460,  and  completed 
in  1469.  When  perfect,  it  formed  an 
ample  quadrangle,  flanked  by  4  towers, 
2  of  which  alone  remain*    The  inner 


court  was  surrounded  by  a  double 
cloister,  or  loggia :  in  the  upper  one  the 
arches  were  filled  in  by  the  most  deli- 
cate tracery  in  brickwork:  the  whole 
was  crowned  by  elegant  forked  battle- 
ments. In  the  towers  were  depo- 
sited the  treasures  of  literature  and  art 
which  Q-ian'  Galeazzo  had  collected ; — 
ancient  armour  j  upwards  of  1000 
manuscripts,  which  Petrarch  had  as- 
sisted in  selecting ;  and  many  natural 
curiosities. 

All  these  Visconti  collections  were 
carried  to  France  in  1499  by  Louis 
XII.,  and  nothing  was  left  but  the 
bare  walls.  One  side  of  the  palace  or 
castle  was  demohshed  during  the  siege 
by  Lautreo  in  1527 ;  but  in  other  re- 
spects it  continued  perfect,  though  de- 
serted, till  1796,  when  it  was  again 
put  into  a  state  of  defence  by  the 
French.  They  took  off  the  roof,  and 
covered  the  vaultings  with  earth ;  and 
when  the  rains  came  on  in  autumn,  the 
moisture  and  the  weight  broke  down 
the  vaultings  and  ruined  great  part  of 
the  edifice.  It  has  since  been  fitted  up 
as  a  barrack,  and  contains  at  present  a 
large  artillery  force :  in  some  parts  the 
tracery  of  the  interior  arches  is  tolerably 
perfect ;  and  the  great  ruined  gateway, 
once  entered  by  a  drawbridge  crossing 
the  fosse,  is  still  a  fine  object. 

The  ihtomo,  8a/n  Stefano,  or  cathe- 
dral, was  commenced  in  1488,  but  never 
finished.  It  was  erected  upon  the  site 
of  an  ancient  Lombard  basilica,  ot 
which  there  are  some  remains  towards 
the  Piazza.  They  are  in  the  same  style 
as  what  we  shall  see  at  S.  Michele. 
The  3  western  doors  are  Lombard. 

The  first  stone  was  laid  by  Q-aleazzo 
Maria  Sforza,  and  his  brother  Ludovico ; 
the  captivity  of  the  latter  was  one  of 
the  causes  which  prevented  the  prosecu- 
tion of  the  edifice.  The  architect  was 
Ch/ristoforo  Mocchiy  a  pupil  of  Bra- 
mante.  A  spacious  octagon  occupies 
the  centre,  and  a  nave  and  side  aisles, 
extending  :n  each  direction,  were  to 
have  formed  the  cross ;  the  side  aisles 
opening  into  the  oblique  sides  of  the 
octagon,  which  are  smaller  than  the 
others.    The  pulpit  is  of  great  size, 


Route  23.— Pavia. 


238 


Route  23. — Pavia — San  Michele. 


Sect.  III. 


surrounding  one  of  the  large  clustered 
columns.  The  colossal  Terms,  repre- 
senting the  Fathers  of  the  Church, 
bent  forwards,  and  supporting  the 
pulpit  on  their  backs  and  shoulders, 
are  finely  executed  in  dark  wood.  A 
curious  reminiscence  of  the  age  of 
romance  is  foimd  in  the  lance  of  Or- 
lando, a  decayed  shaft  as  large  as  a 
boat's  mast,  suspended  from  the  roof 
of  the  cathedral. 

In  the  side  chapel  on  the  rt.  is  the 
tomb  of  St.  Augustine,  the   greatest 
of  the  Fathers  of  the  Latin  Church. 
It  was  preserved  and  brought  liither 
when   the   church   of    St.    Pietro    in 
Coelo   Aureo,  where  Liutprand  King 
of  the  Lombards  deposited  the  body 
in  700,  was  destroyed.     It  dates  from 
the   14th   century.     The  body  of  St. 
Augustine     (ob.    430)    was    removed 
from  Hippo,   a  suffragan  see  of  Car- 
thage, during  the  Arian  persecutions, 
when  the   Catholic  clergy,  being  ba- 
nished by  King  Thrasimund  to  Sar- 
dinia, carried  the    relic   thither  with 
them.     Here  it  continued  until  Liut- 
prand purchased  it  from  the  inhabit- 
ants, who,  exposed  to  the  constant  in- 
vasions of  the  Saracens,  could  no  longer 
ensure  safety  to  the  pilgrims  who  re- 
sorted to  the  shrine.    The  remains  of 
the  saint  were  deposited  by  Liutprand 
in  a  species  of  catacomb  or  sepulchral 
chapel,  where,  when  opened  in  1090,  the 
bones  were  found,  wrapped  in  a  silken 
tissue,  together  with  some  of  his  epis- 
copal ornaments,  all  contained  in  a  silver 
shrine,  of  which  the  exterior  is  now 
exposed  to  view  in  the  lower  part  of  the 
present  monument.      There   is    some 
uncertainty  as   to    the  names   of  the 
artists  by  whom  this  magnificent  pile 
was  erected.     Cicognara,  who  says  it 
must  be  reckoned  amongst  the  most 
"magnificent  and  grandiose"  of  the 
14th  century,  supposes  it  was  executed 
by   Pietro   JPaolo  and  Jacohello  delle 
Masegne.    Vasari,  on  the  contrary,  at- 
tributes it  to  Agostino  and  Agnolo  of 
Siena.     This  assertion  Cicognara  sup- 
poses to  be  contradicted  by  the  date 
stated  in  the  books  of  the  priory  to  have 
been  1362^    The  tomb  consists  of  four 


tiers  :  the  basement,  the  sepulchral 
urn,  upon  which  is  extended  the  statue 
of  the  saint  in  his  episcopal  robes,  under 
the  canopy,  and  the  surmounting  sta- 
tues and  pinnacles.  Great  invention 
and  variety  are  displayed  in  the  smaller 
statues  and  bas-reliefs.  Sound  St.  Au- 
gustin  are  the  saints  whom  his  order 
produced.  Several  figures  adjust  the 
shroud  around  him ;  the  Liberal  Arts 
and  the  Cardinal  Virtues,  the  prin- 
cipal events  of  the  history  of  the  saint, 
and  the  miracles  operated  by  his  inter- 
cession after  his  death,  adorn  the  upper 
portions  of  the  tomb — 290  figures  in 
all ;  and  Gian'  Galeazzo  Visconti  pro- 
posed to  have  added  more.  The  me- 
chanical execution  corresponds  with 
the  bea-uty  of  the  design. 

There  are  some  good  pictures  in  the 
cathedral,  but  the  darkness  of  the  build- 
ing makes  it  rather  difficult  to  distin- 
guish them.  The  best  are,  D.  Oregpi, 
the  Virgin  and  Child,  St.  Sirus  and 
St.  Anthony  of  Padua ;  H.  Sq^arOy  the 
Virgin  of  the  Rosary;  and  G.  B.  Crespi^ 
the  Wise  Men's  Offering,  The  cam- 
piEinile  is  a  noble  square  massy  tower 
of  brick,  not  much  altered  from  Gothic 
times. 

The  chureh  of  San  Miehele  ranks 
before  the  cathedral  in  age.  The 
exact  date  of  the  construction  of 
this  chureh  is  not  accurately  known. 
The  first  time  it  is  mentioned  is  by 
Paulus  Diaconus,  who  incidentally  re- 
lates that,  in  661,  Unulfus  took  sanc- 
tuary in  this  church  to  escape  the 
vengeance  of  King  Grimoaldus.  The 
probability,  however,  is  that  it  had 
only  been  ^^ecently  finished  at  that 
time ;  because  the  particular  veneration 
for  the  Archangel  Michael,  which  com- 
menced in  Apulia  in  503,  did  not  reach 
the  North  of  Italy  till  a  century  later. 
In  addition  to  which  we  find  that, 
during  the  whole  of  the  6th  century, 
the  inhabitants  of  Pavia  were  occupied 
with  the  construction  of  their  cathedral, 
San  Stefano ;  and  it  is  not  likely  that 
they  would  have  carried  on  two  works 
of  such  magnitude  at  the  same  time. 
San  Miehele  is  189  ft.  long  by  81  ft. 


liOMBARDT. 


Route  23.— 'Pam'a^  Churches. 


239 


wide;  the  nave  is  45  ft.  wide.  The 
plan  is  that  of  a  basilica,  with  the 
addition  of  2  short  transepts.  The 
chancel  is  approached  bj  several  steps, 
which  was  probably  an  alteration  in- 
troduced in  later  times  than  when  the 
church  was  built.  The  mosaic  pave- 
ment beneath  the  high  altar  is  sup- 
posed to  date  from  the  6th  or  7th 
oenty .  GDhere  is  a  curious  cruci  fix  in  the 
chapel  on  rt.  of  the  choir  with  the  date 
673.  Above  the  aisles,  on  each  side  of 
the  nave,  there  is  a  triforium  gallery  j 
above  the  intersection  of  the  nave  and 
the  transepts  an  octagonal  cupola ;  and 
under  the  choir  a  crypt  of  7  arches, 
probably  of  the  10th  centy.  The  4 
arches  on  either  side  of  the  nave  arc 
supported  by  compound  piers.  All  the 
capitals  of  these  piers  are  enriched  with 
animals,  sphynxes,  images,  symbols  &c. 
The  roof  is  remarkable.  Unlike  those 
of  the  old  BasiHcas,  in  wood,  it  is 
vaulted  with  stone ;  but  the  pilasters 
which  run  up  to  support  the  vault  are 
of  a  later  character  than  the  other  por- 
tions of  the  building,  and  confirm  the 
impression,  suggested  by  the  nature  of 
the  roof  itself,  which  is  groined,  that 
the  present  vaulted  roof  must  have  been 
substituted  for  an  older  one  of  wood. 
The  walls  of  the  building  are  of  stone, 
massive  and  thick.  The  exterior  is 
ornamented  with  small  open  galleries, 
which  follow  the  shape  of  the  gable 
in  front,  and  crown  the  semicircular 
apse.  The  portals  exhibit  the  com- 
plete adoption  of  the  round  form  in- 
stead of  the  square,  with  the  addition 
of  several  mouldings,  and  a  profusion 
of  imagery;  nor  are  the  ornaments 
confined  to  the  portals.  Bands,  en- 
riched with  imagery,  are  carried  along 
the  whole  of  the  front,  and  modiQions 
are  let  into  the  walls.  The  windows 
are  roimdheaded,  and  divided  by  smaU 
pillars.  The  ornaments  of  the  portals 
are  a  mixture  derived  from  Christian, 
Pagan,  and  Scandinavian  sources,  to- 
gether with  some  which  are  merely 
introduced  for  the  purpose  of  decora- 
tion, and  afford  a  good  example  of 
their  peculiar  style.  San  Michele 
may   be    taken   as   a  specimen  of  a 


style  which  the  Lombards  adopted  for 
their  own. 

In  the  choir  are  some  early  frescoes 
by  Antonio  da  JEdessa,  a  contemporary 
of  G-iotto's  ;  there  is  also  a  tolerable 
painting  by  Moncalvo, 

Santa  Maria  del  Carmine^  or  8.  Pan- 
taleoncy  built  in  1325,  is  a  church  de- 
serving of  notice  as  a  beautiful  speci- 
men of  the  finest  brickwork,  and  for  its 
pointed  style  more  akin  to  English- 
Gothic  than  almost  any  ch.  iu  Italy  : 
in  the  cornice  are  intersecting  orna- 
mental arches,  and  the  W.  front  has 
a  large  rose-window,  six  pointed  win- 
dows, and  three  pointed  doors,  all 
formed  in  finely-moulded  terra-cotta, 
the  whole  surmounted  by  an  elaborate, 
although  perhaps  heavy  cornice,  •  witli 
7  elegant  pinnacles.  The  bell-tower  is 
remarkable  for  its  height  and  beauty,  a 
square  tower  surmoimted  by  a  brick 
spire,  the  whole  capped  by  a  vei-y  hand- 
some lanthorn  on  columns  of  white 
marble.  "  The  brick  pillars  of  the  in- 
side deserve  notice ;  four  squares  form 
the  nave,  each  of  which  is  covered  by 
a  simple  groin,  but  opens  by  two  small 
lancet  arches  separated  by  massive  piers 
into  the  side  aisles,  and  has  a  very  small 
circular  window  above.  The  brickwork 
has  been  hacked,  to  retain  a  coat  of 
stucco  or  whitewash.  The  walls  and 
vaults  are  also  of  brickwork,  but  of  very 
different  quality.  These  were  evidently 
intended  to  be  covered.  The  upper 
capitals  are  of  stone,  ornamented  "vvith 
detached  leaves ;  the  lower  are  of  brick, 
cut  into  escutcheon  faces." — Woods. 
There  are  some  frescoes  of  the  15th 
centy.  on  the  piers  of  the  nave. 

San  Francesco  is  another  fine  chiu-ch 
of  the  same  material  and  style.  "  The 
upper  part  of  the  front,  with  one  large 
central  arch,  surrounded  by  a  number 
of  plain  and  enriched  bands,  is  finely 
composed,"  —  Woods.  The  pointed 
arch  of  the  W.  front  is  elaborate, 
a  great  number  of  terra-cotta  orna- 
ments introduced.  The  inside  has  been 
miserably  modernised.  A  painting  by 
Campi  is  the  only  jucture  worthy  of 
notice. 


240 


Route  23. — Pavia — University, 


Sect.  IIL 


Santa  Maria  di  Canepanova  is  a 
speoimen  of  the  cinquecento  style,  by 
Sramante,  It  was  begun  in  1492  by 
Gtdeazzo  Maria  Sforza,  and  contains 
some  pretty  good  frescoes  by  Moncalvo, 
and  several  subjects  from  the  Old  Testa- 
ment by  Oiulio  Cesare  and  Camillo 
Procaccini, 

Of  the  celebrated  church  of  San 
Pietro  in  Cielo  cTOro  some  portions 
remain,  partly  in  ruins,  and  partly  used 
as  a  storehouse.  Here  was  one  of  the 
interesting  monuments  of  Italy,  the 
tomb  of  Boethius. 

The  churches  of  San  Teodoro  and  of 
San  Marino  were  erected  in  the  8th 
and  9th  centuries  ;  but  the  interiors  of 
both  have  been  so  entirely  modernised 
that  there  is  now  little  in  either  worthy 
of  notice.  In  the  latter  is  a  good 
painting  by  Cesare  da  Sesto  of  the 
virgin  and  Cliild  :  on  the  walls  of  the 
choir  frescoes  of  acts  of  St.  Theodore 
and  St.  Agnes,  and  on  1.  of  the  nave 
one,  lately  uncovered,  with  a  curious 
view  of  the  city  in  the  15th  centy. 
The  ch.  has  a  raised  choir,  under  which 
is  a  lower  chapel  like  that  at  S.  Michele  j 
on  the  walls  of  the  nave  are  some  me- 
diseval  paintings. 

The  covered  bridge  over  the  Ticino 
was  built  by  Gian'  Galeazzo,  and  from 
his  time  to  the  present  has  been  a  fa- 
vourite promenade  of  the  inhabitants 
of  Pavia.  The  body  of  the  work  is 
brick,  with  stone  quoins  to  the  arches. 
Its  roof  is  supported  by  100  rough 
columns  of  granite.  The  ch.  beyond 
it  has  some  curious  Lombard  carvings 
on  the  outside. 

A  little  way  out  of  the  town  is  the 
Lombard  church  of  San  Lanfranco .  It 
offers  a  beautifully  varied  outline.  Be- 
hind its  high  altar  is  a  sepulchral 
monument,  a  good  work  by  Amadeo^ 
consisting  of  a  sarcophagus  resting  on 
pillars  of  coloured  marble,  with  bas- 
reliefs  of  great  beauty,  probably  the 
history  of  the  saint  j  in  the  adjoining 
neglected  cloisters  are  some  good  frag- 
ments of  terracotta  decoration. 

Outside  the  city  is  the  ch.  of  San 
Salvatore.  In  the  inside  Corinthian 
pilasters  support  pointed  arches*    The 


whole  is  richly  gilt  and  painted.  Here 
is  a  school  for  boys  in  connexion  with 
the  university. 

The  University  of  Pavia  claims  a 
high  antiquity.  It  is  said  to  have  been 
foimded  by  Charlemagne  in  774 ;  and, 
though  this  assertion  is  not  susceptible 
of  strict  historical  proof,  it  is  certain 
that  the  civil  law  was  professed  at 
Pavia  at  a  very  early  period.  That  great 
restorer  and  reformer  of  the  Church 
of  England,  Lanfranc,  Archbishop  of 
Canterbury  in  the  reign  of  the  Con- 
queror, was  bom  at  Pavia  of  a  family 
who  possessed  by  inheritance  the  right 
of  administering  the  civil  laws,  perhaps 
derived  from  their  senatorial  dignity 
in  the  Boman  period.  The  splendour  of 
the  University,  however,  arose  mainly 
from  Gian'  Galeazzo,  who,  about  1390, 
granted  it  so  many  additional  privileges 
that  he  is  usually  honoured  as  the 
founder.  But  these  parchments  might 
have  been  a  dead  letter,  had  not  the 
duke  wisely  appointed  the  celebrated 
Baldus  professor  of  civil  law.  He  was  a 
man  of  wonderful  acuteness  and  dili- 
gence, and  possessed  what  would  now 
be  termed  an  European  reputation,  to 
the  highest  extent.  Kings  and  princes 
consulted  him  upon  points  of  public 
law,  and  his  commentaries 

"  on  the  Corpus, 
Big  and  lumpy  as  a  porpoise,** 

contain  a  mine  of  learning.  In  more 
modem  times  Pavia  has  been  prmci- 
pally  distinguished  as  a  medical  school ; 
and  in  this  branch  of  knowledge  it  has 
produced  men  of  great  eminence.  It 
IB  yet  in  considen&le  repute,  contain- 
ing about  1600  students.  The  anato- 
mical theatre  is  well  contrived,  and  the 
professors  of  the  medical  faculty  have 
always  enjoyed  a  high  reputation. 

Little  can  be  seen  of  the  ancient 
buildings  of  the  University.  Maria 
Theresa,  in  1779,  and  the  Emperor 
Joseph,  in  1787,  fronted  and  adorned 
much  of  the  old  part,  and  built  two 
new  quadrangles ;  and  still  more  re- 
cently (1816)  the  principal  fei^ade, 
which  extends  along  the  Corso,  was 
erected  by  Marchese^  by  order  of  the 


liOMBABDY. 


liotUe  23. — Pavia  to  Genoa. 


241 


Emperor  Francis  I.  The  museums  of 
anatomical  and  pathological  prepara- 
tions and  of  specimens  of  natural  his- 
tory are  remarkably  good.  It  also 
contains  a  library  of  50,000  vols.,  and 
a  Numismatic  collection.  To  this  uni- 
versity also  is  annexed  a  school  of  the 
fine  arts. 

There  are  five  fine  courts,  against 
the  walls  of  two  of  which  are  placed 
monuments  of  early  professors,  some 
of  them  when  the  churches  where 
they  had  been  originally  erected 
were  suppressed.  One  of  these  is  of 
the  celebrated  jurist  Alciatus.  Most  of 
the  older  monuments  are  on  the  same 
model  —  representing  the  professor 
seated  in  the  midst  of  his  pupils, 
who  are  listening  to  his  lectures. 
Though  often  venerable-looking,  long- 
bearded  men,  the  pupils,  to  denote 
their  inferiori^,  are  made  about  half 
the.  size  of  their  masters,  which  gives 
them  the  appearance  of  old  boys. 
Their  countenances  and  attitudes  gene- 
rally denote  intense  attention.  Some 
eminent  men  of  more  recent  times  have 
monuments  here — Spalanzani,  Fon- 
tanay  and  Scopoli,  Volta,  Scarpa,  Frank, 
and  Masckeriniy  all  of  whom  were  pro- 
fessors in  this  university. 

Of  the  many  colleges  formerly  an- 
nexed to  the  imiversity,  two  only  have 
remained,  the  Collegio  Borromeo, 
founded  and  supported  by  that  family 
for  the  gratuitous  education  of  stu- 
dents, and  resembling  some  of  the 
Halls  or  Colleges  of  our  Enghsh  Uni- 
versities, and  the  Collegio  Ghislieri. 
In  front  of  the  latter  is  a  bronze  statue 
of  its  founder.  Pope  Pius  Y. 

The  Collegio  Borromeo  is  a  very  large 
quadrangular  pile,  founded  by  St. 
Charles,  the  inside  is  a  magnificent 
quadrangle  of  two  stories,  on  the  upper 
one  of  which  is  a  large  hall,  with  fres- 
coes relative  to  the  life  of  the  foimder, 
by  ZucchareUi,  The  C.  B.  admits 
about  30  pupils  for  gratuitous  instruc- 
tion, who  are  lodged  and  fed  during 
their  attendance  at  the  university. 

Behind  the  university,  three  of  the 
high  and  gloomy  towers,  resembling 
those  at  Bologna,  by  so  many  of  which 


Favia  was  once  adorned,  defended,  or 
tyrannised  over,  are  well  seen.  Some 
are  still  from  200  to  250  ft.  high,  uni- 
form in  aspect,  square,  with  small  aper- 
tures all  the  way  up,  and  adding  much 
to  the  character  of  the  city  by  their 
singular  appearance,  the  highest  is  op- 
posite to  the  hospital,  and  hence  called 
La  Torre  del  Ospedale.  If  the  accounts 
of  historians  are  to  be  credited,  Pavia, 
the  "  Civitas  Turrigera,"  at  one  time 
possessed  525  of  these  towers. 

Amongst  the  estabhshments  at  Pavia 
to  interest  the  traveller  is  the  Stahil- 
mento  Malaspina  in  the  Piazza  di 
Loreto,  consisting  of  a  gallery  of  paint- 
ings and  some  miscellaneous  curiosities. 
It  was  formed  by  a  nobleman  of  the 
town,  and  made  over  by  him  to  the 
municipaUty  for  the  use  of  the  pubhc, 
but  the  paintings  are  of  a  very  second- 
rate  character,  and  in  many  instances 
decorated  with  names  of  great  artists, 
to  which  they  have  no  claim.  In  the 
adjoining  Malaspina  palace,  one  of  the 
handsomest  in  Pavia,  are  some  Boman 
and  mediaeval  marbles  and  inscriptions. 

Pavia  is  not  healthy ;  fevers  are 
prevalent,  and,  whatever  may  be  the 
cause,  individuals  who  are  stunted  in 
their  growth,  or  deformed,  are  so  nu- 
merous as  to  force  themselves  upon  the 
observation. 

Amongst  the  notahilia  of  Pavia  must 
be  noticed  the  ancient  costume  of  the 
ladies,  which  is  rather  dechning  at 
Milan.  It  is  a  hlacJc  silken  veil,  thrown 
over  the  uncovered  head  in  the  same 
manner  as  the  white  veil  is  used  at 
Genoa. 

On  quitting  Pavia  the  old  post  road 
crosses  the  Ticino  by  the  covered  bridge, 
and  enters  the  suburb  caUed  Borgo  Ti- 
cino. Shortly  after  another  branch  of 
the  Ticirio  is  passed  before  reaching 
San  Martino,  about  2  m.  from  Pavia. 
4  m.  further  on,  the  Po  is  crossed  by  a 
bridge  of  boats.  A  toll  of  2f  fr.  is  paid 
for  each  carriage  at  the  Ticino  bridge 
on  quitting  Pavia,  and  .3  fr.  40  c.  on 
crossing  the  Po  at  Mezzana  Oorte.  A 
rly.  is  in  progress  from  Pavia  to  Cre- 
mona and  Brescia,  which  wiQ  abridge 
considerably  the  journey  from   Pavia 


242 


Route  24. — MUan  to  Lodi  and  Piacenza, 


Sect.  III. 


and  Genoa  to  Venice  and  Trieste,  espe- 
cially when  the  projected  line  between 
Cremona  and  Mantua  has  been  opened. 
Rly.  nearly  completed  between  Pavia 
and  Voghera,  crossing  the  Po  by  a  fine 
bridge. 

20  kil.  Casteggio.    There  is  a  public 
conveyance  to  Casteggio,  corresponding 
with  some  of  the  rly.   trains,  which 
employs  about  2  hrs.     (Rte.  7.) 
65  kil.  Alessandria.     (Bte.  5.) 
140  kU.  Genoa.    (Rte.  13.) 


ROUTE  24. 

MILAN  TO  PIACENZA,  BY  MELEGNANO, 
LODI,  AND  CASAL  PUSTEELENGO. 


Milan  to 
Rogoredo   . 
Melegnaiio 
Tavazzano . 
Lodl.    .    . 


Kil. 

1 
18 
25 
33 


Kil. 
S'^cugnago .  .  .45 
Casal  Pusterlengo  52 
Godogno  ...  66 
S.  Stefano  .  .  .61 
Piaoenza    ...  70 


70  kU.  =  43  m. 

The  railway  from  Milan  to  Piacenza 
was  opened  in  1861 :  it  follows  nearly 
the  line  of  the  old  post-road.  5  trains 
daily  in  1 J  hr. :  fares,  8'35  and  6*10 
francs. 

Leaving  Milan,  the  country  is  for 
most  part  of  the  way  of  the  same  cha- 
racter as  that  to  Pavia;  in  some 
parts  exceedingly  marshy,  intersected 
with  numerous  canals  and  streams. 
It  is  perhaps  the  least  agreeable  side 
of  Milan.  If  the  traveller  is  coming 
from  the  S.  he  will  miss  the  festoons 
of  the  vines,  which,  even  before  he 
reaches  Lodi,  will  have  almost  en- 
tirely disappeared.  The  maize,  though 
beautiful  in  flower  and  in  ear,  is,  when 
ripe,  arid  in  appearance  and  ungraceful. 
The  rice  plantations,  below  the  level  of 
the  road,  and  where  the  cultivators 


labour  in  black  mud  above  the  ankle, 
convey  the  idea  of  unhealthiness ;  but 
the  meadows  are  beautiful.  Ch&teau- 
vieux  says,  "  The  cultivation  of  rice  in 
Lombardy  is  remarkably  unhealthy ; 
sickly  labourers  are  seen  walking  along 
the  banks  to  superintend  the  distribu- 
tion of  the  water.  They  are  clad  like 
miners,  in  coarse  clothing,  and  wander 
about,  pale  as  spectres,  among  the 
reeds  and  near  the  sluices,  which  they 
have  barely  strength  to  open  and  shut. 
When  crossing  a  canal  they  are  fre- 
quently obliged  to  plunge  into  the 
water,  out  of  which  they  come  wet  and 
covered  with  mud,  carrying  with  them 
germs  of  fever,  which  invariably  attacks 
them.  They  are  not  the  only  victims, 
for  the  harvest  labourers  seldom  gather 
in  the  crop  without  being  seized  with 
rigors,  the  air  in  all  the  environs  being 
polluted  by  the  stagnant  waters.  The 
cultivation  of  the  rice-planters  is  con- 
sequently restrained  by  law,  and  they 
are  prohibited  to  extend  its  culture 
beyond  prescribed  limits." 

[At  3  m.  from  Porta  Romana,  on  the 
Vetabbia>  a  short  way  on  the  rt.  of  the 
rlwy.,  is  the  very  ancient  church  of 
San  Giorgio  di  Nosedo,  annexed  to 
what  was  a  residence  of  the  Arch- 
bishop. The  mansion  is  now  an  inn. 
The  church  was  founded  in  571,  by 
Alboin  King  of  the  Lombards :  it  is 
still  standing,  and  has  the  remains  of 
a  curious  fresco. 

About  1  m.  lower  down  the  river, 
and  1 J  m.  to  the  rt.  of  the  road,  stands 
the  Abbey  of  Chiaravalle,  a  Cistercian 
monastery,  suppressed  in  1797.  A  cross 
road,  which  leaves  the  post-route  about 
1  m.  from  the  Porta  Romana,  passing 
by  Nosedo,  leads  to  it.  "  This  was  the 
church  of  the  first  Cistercian  monastery 
that  was  established  in  Italy.  The  Cis- 
tercian reform  was  first  introduced  by 
St.  Bernard,  who  was  Abbot  of  Clair- 
vaux  in  France.  In  1134  St.  Bernard 
crossed  the  Alps  to  attend  a  council 
at  Pisa,  and,  on  his  way  back,  paid  a 
visit  to  Milan.  The  citizens  of  Milan 
advanced  7  miles  beyond  their  gates 
to  receive  him.  His  presence  excited  the 
most  enthusiastie  feelings ;  and  within  a 


LOMBARDY.       Route  24*-^Chtaravall0 — Melegnaw. 


243 


year  after  his  departure  a  monastery  was 
built  at  the  distance  of  about4imles 
from  the  city,  which  was  to  be  governed 
by  St.  Bernard's  rules,  and  to  receive  a 
name  from  the  parent  institution.   The 
monastery  was  inhabited  in  1136,  but 
it  was  not  till  nearly  the  close  of  the 
twelfth  century  that  the  church  was 
completed.    It  is  in  the  Lombard  style, 
and  deserves  consideration,  as  an  archi- 
tectural  composition,  for  the  import- 
ance of  its  central  tower.      The  body 
of  the  fabric  is  left  perfectly  plain,  and, 
in  effect,  serves  only  as  a  base  for  the 
leading  feature  of  the  design.      The 
tower  alone  is  enriched.     Octagonal  in 
its   form    up  to  a  certain  height,  it 
becomes    a*  spire  above.      Both    the 
octagonal  and  spiral  portions  are  en- 
riched with  Lombard  galleries,  which 
give   an  appearance  of  lightness,  and 
attract  the  eye  to  that  part  of  the 
buUding  on  which  it  is   intended  to 
rest.     It  is  evident  that  the  architect 
must  have  made  the  central  tower  his 
chief  object ;  and  whenever  an  architect 
has  had  a  peculiar  object,  and  has  suc- 
ceeded in  producing  the  effect  which 
he  desired,  his  work  deserves  to  be 
studied.'* — G.  Knight. 

This  monastery  was  the  favourite 
retirement  of  Ottone  Visconti,  who  died 
in  it.  What  is  called  his  tomb  is  still 
shown;  beneath  the  inscription  are 
shields  of  arms,  amongst  which  are  the 
fleurs-de-lys  of  France. 

In  the  cemetery  which  adjoins  the 
church  are  still  several  monuments  of 
the  powerful  family  of  the  Torriani, 
who  selected  it  for  their  last  resting- 
place.  Here  lies  the  great  Fagano 
della  Torre  (who  died  1241),  the  most 
distinguished  of  his  race;  and  near 
him  several  of  his  descendants.  This 
family  was  at  the  head  of  the  popidar 
party,  and  for  two  or  three  genera- 
tions governed  Milan,  keeping  the 
nobles  in  subjection.  Having  con- 
spired against  the  Emperor  in  the  year 
1311,  they  were  defeated,  proscribed, 
and  banished;  their  fall  made  way 
for  their  rivals  the  Viscontis,  who  were 
at  the  head  of  the  aristocracy. 
Here  also  is  shown  the  tomb  of  the 


celebrated  but  ill-famed  Wilhelmina. 
Her  name  passed  into  a  once  popular 
saying — e(/Ii  ha  da  fare  peggio  che  la 
Ghuglielmina.  She  died  in  1282,  and 
during  her  lifetime  she  was  regarded  as 
a  saint ;  but  after  her  death  it  was  dis- 
covered that  she  had  been  the  foundress 
of  a  secret  sect,  whose  tenets  involved 
the  most  fearful  blasphemies  in  doc- 
trine, as  well  as  the  most  abominable 
sins  in  practice.  Her  bones  were  taken 
up  and  burned,  and  her  accomplices 
put  to  death.  The  cruelties  inflicted 
upon  them  were  most  atrocious. 

The  country  round  this  monastery 
was  reclaimed  by  the  labours  of  the 
Cistercians,  who  were  in  agriculture 
almost  what  the  Benedictines  were  in 
literature.  They  invented  the  system 
of  artificial  meadows,  called  "prati  di 
Marcifat**  to  which  Lombardy  owes  so 
much  of  its  prosperity.] 

Returning  to  the  railway,  we  pass 
through 

7  k3.  Rogoredo  Stat, 

San  Oiuliano. 

10  kil.  MeUgnano  or  Marignano 
Stat.y  on  the  river  Lambro  :  Pop. 
4000.  Here,  on  the  14th  September, 
1515,  Francis  I.  won,  in  the  first 
year  of  his  reign,  the  victory  by  which 
he  acquired  a  transient  and  delusive 
glory.  Having  invaded  the  Milanese 
territory  for  the  purpose  of  asserting  his 
chimerical  rights,  he  was  attacked  at 
Melegnano  by  the  Swiss,  to  whom  the 
defence  of  the  Milanese  territory  had 
been  intrusted.  The  battle  was  con- 
tinued with  great  obstinacy  diiring  3 
entire  days,  and  the  Swiss  were  at  length 
compelled  to  retreat,  in  good  order,  but 
leaving  15,000  dead  upon  the  field,  a 
slaughter  which,  if  we  may  judge  by 
the  feelings  expressed  by  Ariosto,  occa- 
sioned great  delight  to  the  Italian 
heart : — 

"  Vedete  il  tte  Francesco  innanzi  a  tutti, 
Che  cosl  rompe  a'  Svizzeri  le  coma, 
Che  poco  rest  a  a  non  gli  aver  distnitti ; 
SI  che  '1  titolo  mai  pin  non  gli  adorna, 
Ch'  usurpato  s'avran  quoi  villan  l>rutti, 
Che  domator  de'  Principi,  e  diTesa 
Si  nomeran  della  Cristiana  Chiesa."^ 

Canto  xxxiii.  43. 

Melegnano  was  also  the  scene  of  a     — 


244 


BotUe  24. — Lodi. 


Sect.  ni. 


hard-fought  battle  on  the  7th  June, 
1859,  between  the  French  and  Aus- 
trians,  in  which  both  sides  suffered 
severely  :  the  French  conunanded  by 
Marshal  Baraguay  d'Hilliers,  the  Aus- 
trians  by  Benedek,  forming  the  rear- 
guard of  the  army  retreating  after  the 
disaster  of  Magenta. 

Cross  the  Muzza,  one  of  the  many 
canals  of  irrigation  with  which  this 
district  abounds.  The  approach  to 
Lodi  £*om  Milan  is  somewhat  singu- 
lar, from  the  height  of  causeway  on 
which  the  road  is  carried.  A  fine 
avenue  of  plane-trees  borders  it  on 
either  side. 

7  kil.  Tavazzano  Stat. 

8  kil.  Lodi  Stat,  (Inns:  II  Sole, 
good,  civil  people ;  I'Europa  ;  i  Tre 
Ee,  very  fair.)  Omnibuses  leave  Lodi 
for  Crema  on  the  arrival  of  most  of  the 
trains.  The  original  settlement  of  the 
citizens,  JOodi  VecchiOf  is  about  5  m. 
off,  to  the  westward.  It  was  founded 
by  the  Boii,  and,  having  been  colonised 
by  Cneius  Pompeius  Strabo,  the  father 
of  Pompey  the  Great,  the  citizens  called 
it  I/ous  JPompeia.  Cicero  calls  it  sim- 
ply Laus,  The  conversion  of  Laus 
into  Lodi  shows  how,  by  the  employ- 
ment of  the  oblique  cases,  the  Latin 
language  was  corrupted  into  the  modem 
dialect. 

The  men  of  Lodi  were  the  great  and 
constant  rivals  of  the  Milanese,  who,  in 
1111,  entirely  destroyed  the  city.  "The 
animosity  between  Milan  and  Lodi  was 
of  very  old  standing.  It  originated, 
according  to  Arnulf,  in  the  resistance 
made  by  the  inhabitants  of  the  latter 
city  to  an  attempt  made  by  Archbishop 
Eribert  to  force  a  bishop  of  his  own 
nomination  upon  them.  The  bloodshed, 
plunder,  and  conflagrations  which  had 
ensued  would,  he  says,  fill  a  volume  if 
they  were  related  at  length." — JECallam. 
After  the  destruction  of  Milan,  the 
Lodigiani,  who  had  fled  to  Pizzighet- 
tone,  came  (1158)  before  Barbarossa, 
as  suppliants,  weeping  and  bearing 
crosses,  and  requesting  a  home;  and 
accordingly  he  gave  them  a  village  then 
called  Monteguizone,  granting  them 
investiture  by  the  delivery  of  a  banner. 


The  spot  is  said  to  have  been  fixed 
upon  by  Frederick  himself;  it  was 
defended  by  the  river  Adda,  and  lies  in 
a  tract  of  exuberant  fertility :  thus  arose 
the  modem  city,  containing  now  up- 
wards of  18,000  Inhab. 

The  inhabitants  of  Lodi  removed 
from  their  ancient  city  the  reUcs  of 
their  patron  saint,  Bassianus,  which 
they  deposited  in  the  Duomo,  a  fine 
Lombard  building.  The  porch  is  sup- 
ported by  fine  griffins;  perhaps  not 
only  the  design,  but  even  a  part  of  the 
materials,  may  have  been  brought  from 
old  Lodi.  This  is  certainly  the  case 
with  respect  to  a  bas-rehef  represent- 
ing the  Last  Supper,  a  remarkable  mo- 
nument of  early  Christian  art,  anterior 
to  the  settlement  of  the  Lombards. 
The  eyes  are  of  enamel.  Some  fine 
paintings  in  tempera  ore  on  the  walls 
near  the  high  altar.  They  are  by 
Ouglielmo  and  Alberto  di  Lodi^  and 
were  covered  up  till  within  the  last  few 
years. 

The  ch.  of  the  Ineoronata,  by  Bra- 
mante,  begun  in  1476,  is  a  very  beauti- 
ful specimen  of  the  Kenaissance.  It  is 
an  octagon,  and  contains  some  good 
paintings  of  Calisto  da  Lodi^  an  imi- 
tator of  Titian.  The  subjects  are  taken 
from  the  events  of  the  Passion  of  our 
Lord,  the  Life  of  St.  John  the  Baptist, 
and  the  Life  of  the  Virgin :  the  heads 
have  great  beauty.  It  is  said  that  some 
of  the  pictures  were  executed  by  Titian, 
who,  passing  through  Lodi,  gave  this 
help  to  his  pupil. 

The  Piazza,  surrounded  by  arches, 
is  fine  of  its  kind.  The  entrance 
of  the  convent  formerly  belonging  to 
the  JPadri  delV  Oratorio  is  formed  by 
an  arch  said  to  have  been  brought 
from  old  Lodi.  On  it  is  inscribed  Jgno- 
ranticB  et  Paupertati :  neither  the  form 
of  the  letters  nor  the  nature  of  the 
inscription  sanctions  its  supposed  anti- 
quity. The  terrible  passage  of  the 
bridge  of  Lodi,  and  the  heroic  conduct 
of  the  young  Buonaparte  at  the  head  of 
his  grenadiers.  May  10th,  1796,  need  no 
commemoration.  The  bridge  is  on  the 
eastern  side  of  the  city,  over  the  Adda. 

The  Lodi  district  is  the  chief  country 


LcmSABDY. 


Eoide  24.— ioc?«  to  Fiacenza. 


245 


for  the  production  of  the  cheese  usually 
called  Parmesan,     In  the  country  it 
is     called    Qrana.     The   territory    in 
which  the  cheese  is  produced  is  20  m. 
wide  from  Pavia  to  Milan  and  Lodi, 
and  double  that  in  length  from  Abbi- 
ategrasso,  near  the  Ticino,  to  Codogno, 
near  the  confluence  of  the  Adda  and 
Po.     The  cows  set  apart  for  this  pro- 
duction are  about  80,000.   It  is  seldom 
found  profitable  to  rear  them  ia  the 
country;   they   come  from  the  Swiss 
cantons  of  Unterwald,  Uri,  Zug,  Lu- 
zem,  and  Schweitz.   They  are  brought 
at  the  age  of  from  3  to  4  years,  between 
October  and  March,   and   give   nulk 
abundantly  for  about  7  years.     More 
than  12,000  are  imported  every  year; 
the  price  of  each  is  from  14^.  to  18/., 
sometimes  as  high  as  20/.     After  7 
yrs.  they  are  sold,   when  worn  out. 
The  cheese  produced  from  a  cow  is, 
on  an  average,   3^  lbs.   avoirdupois 
in  the    course    of   a  year,  which   is 
weighed  after  6  months.     It  is  sold 
twice   a  year;     that  called  la  Sorte 
Maggenga    (May  lot)   is  that  which 
is    made    between    St.    Q-eorge*s  day 
and  St.  Michael's,  24th  April  to  29th 
Sept. ;    the  other    is  called  la  Sorte 
Invemenga  (the  winter  lot),  which  is 
made  between  the  29th  Sept.  and  the 
24th  April.    The  average  price  is  from 
92  to  100  fr.  (e.  «?.  from  3/.  13*.  Sd.  to 
4/.)   for  171  lbs.    avoirdupois.      The 
total  production  of  the  year  will  be 
27,568,500  lbs.  avoirdupois.  After  two 
or  three  years'  seasoning  in  the  ware- 
houses of  the  merchants,  which  are  prin- 
cipally at  Codogno,  province  of  Lodi, 
and  Corsico,  province  of  Milan,   the 
weight  of  the  cheese  is  diminished  5 
per  cent.    About  the  half  comprehends 
two  inferior  sorts.    The  first  of  these 
is  cheese  of  a  bad  quahty;  the  other 
inferior  sort,  although  of  a  good  qua- 
hty, from  some  defect  in  the  shape 
cannot  be  exported,  and  is  consumed 
in  the  country.     The  whole  of   the 
better  kind  is  sent  out  of  the  country. 
The  quantity  exported  to  Great  Bri- 
tain is  comparatively  small. 

Three  kinds  of  pasture  are  used  for 
the  cows ;  viz*  the  marcito  (or  con- 


stantly flooded  meadow-land) ;  tm- 
gatorio  stabile  (the  merely  irrigated 
grounds)  ;  erbatico  (rotative  meadow- 
groimds).  The  marcito  consists  in 
dividing  the  land  into  many  small 
parallelograms,  sensibly  inclined  to  one 
side.  The  water  which  fills  the  little 
canals  amongst  them  overflows  these 
spots  slowly ;  it  spreads  like  a  veil 
over  these  spaces,  and  by  the  inch- 
nation  of  the  ground  falls  again  into 
the  opposite  canal.  From  this  it  is 
diffused  over  other  parts,  so  that  the 
whole  meadow  country  is  continually 
flooded ;  from  which  there  is  main- 
tained a  rapid  and  continual  vegeta- 
tion in  the  heats  of  summer  and  the 
frosts  of  winter ;  at  the  same  time  no 
marshy  weeds  prevail.  The  grass  is 
cut  five  times  a  year;  and  in  some 
parts  below  Milan,  in  the  meadows 
(along  the  Vettabbia),  even  nine 
times.  "When  cut  on  the  Slst  May  it 
is  32  inches  high ;  at  every  subsequent 
cutting  it  is  less  —  the  second  10, 
the  third  8,  the  fourth  6,  .&c.  It  is 
quite  tasteless  and  insipid,  and  horses 
refuse  -  to  eat  it,  which  proves  the  opi- 
nion of  many  strangers  to  be  errone- 
ous, who  attribute  the  fine  taste  of  the 
cheese  to  the  flavour  of  the  pasture. 
The  marciti  meadows  require  a  con- 
stant supply  of  water ;  when  there  is 
not  enough,  the  simple  irrigating  sys- 
tem is  adopted ;  the  grounds  are  then 
watered  at  the  interval  of  several  days. 
The  erbatico^  or  rotation  meadow,  alter- 
nates with  the  cultivation  of  rice,  grain, 
flax,  Indian  com,  and  oats. 

12  kil.  Secugnago  Stat. 

7  kil.  Casal  Pusterlengo  Stat.^  i\ 
good-sized  town,  where  a  road  branches 
off"  to  Cremona;  the  rly.  we  follow, 
continues  to 

4  kil.  Codogno  Stat.,  from  wliich 
starts  a  dihgence  for  Cremona,  and 

5  kil.  iarther  to  S.  Stefano  Stat. 
Shortly  afterwards  the  Po  is  crossed 

by  a  bridge  connected  by  an  island  in 
the  centre  of  the  stream,  a  short  dis* 
tance  from  which  brings  us  to 

9  kH.  PiAOENZA  Staf.,  near  the 
Porta  di  Podesta  (see  Rte.  40). 


246 


Moute  25. — MHaji  to  Mantua, 


Sect  III, 


ROUTE  25. 

MILAN  TO  MANTFA,  BY  CREMONA. 

Milan  to  Cremona,  66^  m.  Cremona 
to  Mantua,  48  m. 

There  are  two  roads  to  Cremona, 
the  most  direct  by  Treyiglio,  Cara- 
vaggio,  and  Crema,  by  rail  in  3J  hrs. ; 
the  second  by  rail  to  Codogno,  and 
from  there  to  Cremona  by  diligence, 
until  the  rly.  from  Pavia,  passing 
by  Codogno,  will  have  been  completed. 


Milan  to  Cremona,  hy  Rail, 
Kii. 


Milan  to 
TrevJgllo(Rte.27).  32 
Caravaggio  ...  39 
Casaletto  Vaprio  .  48 
Crema 55 


C{»telleone  . 
Soreslna  .  . 
Casalbuttano 
Olmenetta  . 
Cremona .    . 


Kil. 

72 

81 

87 

108 


108  kii.  =  67  m. 


The  route  as  far  as  Treviglio  is 
described  at  p.  253,  from  which  the  rly. 
follows  nearly  the  former  post-road  as 
far  as 


7  kil.  Caravaggio  stat.,  3  m.  from. 
Treviglio,  a  town  of  about  6000  Inhab. 
In  the  principal  ch.,  with  a  Lombard  &- 
9ade  and  high  bell-tower,are  some  good 
paintings  by  Campi :  near  the  town  is 
the  sanctuary  of  the  Madonna,  built  in 
1575  from  the  designs  of  Pellegrini. 
The  name  of  this  town  is  more  gene- 
rally known  from  the  two  painters, 
both  called  "  da  Caravaggio,"  who  were 
bom  here  in  1495  and  1569 — JPolidoro 
Caldara,  the  scholar  of  Raphael,  and 
Michel  Angelo  Merigi,  who  has  some- 
times been  compared  to  the  great 
Michael  Angelo.     Dihgence  to  Chiari. 

9  kil.  Casaletto  Vaprio  Stat, 

7  Crema  Stat.,  a  town  of  10,000 
Inhab.,  on  the  rt.  bank  of  the  Serio,  in 
a  very  rich  agricidtural  district,  half- 
way between  Lodi  and  the  Adda,  and 
Soncino  on  the  Oglio,  to  both  of  wliich 
there  are  good  roads  and  conveyances. 
The  rly.  follows  the  Serio  to 

10  kil.  Castelleone  Stat, 

7  kil.  Soresina  /S^a^,  from  which  the 
line  runs  to 

9  kil.  Casalbuttano,  on  the  Canal  or 
Naviglio  di  Crema,  a  derivation  from 
the  Oglio  near  Calcio,  for  purposes  of 
irrigation.     The  rly.  crossing  to 

6  kiL  Olmenetta  Stat.,  and  from 
there  through  a  highly  irrigated  dis- 
trict to 

11  kil.  Cremona  Stat. 

The  second  road  to  Cremona  will 
occupy  more  time ;  but  as  by  it  the 
tourist  will  be  able  to  visit  Lodi  and 
Pizzighettone,  it  offers  more  interest ; 
proceeding  as  described  in  Route  24, 
as  far  as  Codogno,  by  rail,  whence 
pubUc  conveyances  start  in  corre- 
spondence with  certain  trains. 


See  B-te. 
24. 


Melegnano  Stat. 

Lodi  Stat. 

Casal  Pusterlengo  Stat. 

Codogno  Stat.,  principally  remark- 
able as  a  great  cheese-mart. 

Malco. 

Oera. 

The  country  called  the  Gera  or 
Ghiara  d^Adda  is  hereabouts  tradi- 
tionally supposed  to  have  been  once 
covered  by  a  lake,  called  the  Lago  Ghe- 
rondo,  and  dried  up,  partly  by  drainr 


XiOMBARDY. 


Route  25. — Creniona — History/, 


247 


age,  and  partly  by  evaporation.  There 
is  muoh  in  the  aspect  of  the  country  to 
confirm  this  opinion. 

8  kil.  Pizzighettone  (Pop.  4000),  once 
a  fortress  of  importance.  It  was  ori- 
ginally built  by  the  men  of  Cremona 
in  1125  as  a  point  of  defence  against 
the  Milanese.  Here  Francis  I.  was  de- 
tained after  the  battle  of  Pavia.  The 
fortifications  still  look  strong,  though 
tbey  have  been  partially  dismantled. 
The  place  offers  no  object  of  interest, 
except  some  frescoes  by  Campi  in  the 
principal  church.  The  Adda,  which 
runs  tJu*ough  the  town,  is  here  a  fine 
rapid  stream.  The  road  from  here 
runs  parallel  to  the  Adda,  at  some 
'  distance  on  rt.  to 

Aqua  Negra^  a  small  place,  where 
the  Cremoncse  sustained  a  signal  defeat 
in  1166. 

4  m.  further  is  Cavatigozzi,  about 
1  m.  from  the  Po  and  3  from  Cremona. 

C^SMOKA.  {Inns :  none  good.  The 
Sole  d'Oro  is  the  best;  the  Italia, 
decent  and  clean. — C.  S.  N.,  Mat/t 
1864.)  There  are  diUgences  between 
Cremona  and  Pavia,  in  about  9  hrs., 
shortly  to  be  replaced  by  rly. ;  daily 
to  Parma,  in  7  hrs. ;  and  2  from  the 
Inn  of  the  Capello  to  Brescia  every  day 
in  6  hrs.     (See  Route  41.) 

Cremona  ran  the  same  course,  and 
underwent  the  same  vicissitudes,  which 
befel  most  of  the  principal  cities  of 
Italy  during  the  middle  ages.  Cap- 
tured and  destroyed  by  the  northern 
barbarians  in  the  5th  centy.,  it  remained 
in  a  state  of  abandonment  till  the  7th, 
when,  at  the  command  of  the  Lombard 
king,  Agilulfus,  it  was  rebuilt.  During 
the  nominal  rule  of  the  G-erman  em- 
perors, and  the  anarchy  which  ensued, 
Cremona  obtained  municipal  rights. 
No  sooner  were  the  Cremonese  r\de- 
pendent  than,  like  the  other  enfran- 
chised towns  of  Italy,  they  quarrelled 
witli  their  neighbours.  Cremona  was 
always  at  war  either  with  Crema, 
Brescia,  or  Piacenza  —  but  especially 
with  Milan.  When  Frederick  Barba- 
rossa  vented  his  wrath  on  Milan,  the 
Cremonese  aided  him  in  the  subversion 


of  their  ancient  rival,  and  in  return  ob- 
tained a  new  charter.   But  internal  dis- 
orders were  now  added  to  foreign  wars. 
The  nobles  quarrelled;    Guelph  and 
GhibeUine  factions  fought  in  the  streets. 
In  the  latter  half  of  the  13th  centy., 
Cremona,  in  common  with  many  other 
cities  of  Italy,  had  recourse  to  the 
singular    expedient    of    calling    in    a 
Dictator,  under  the  name  of  Podest^, 
who  was  never  to  be  a  native,  that  he 
might    be  entirely  unconnected  with 
any  of  the  various  parties  whom  he 
had  to  control.     The  Podesti  was  so 
far  of  use  that  he  preserved  internal 
peace.    But,  after  a  time,  an  end  was 
put  to  this  anomalous,  though  bene- 
ficial   domination,   and  a   republican 
form  of  government  was  established. 
So  much  disorder,  however,  was  the 
consequence,  that  the  people,  wearied 
with  the  strife  of  their  rulers,  again 
called  out  for  a  chief.    The  republican 
party  were  compelled  to  withdraw,  but 
in  strength  enough  to  return  to   the 
charge.     Civil  war  thinned  the  popu- 
lation, and  exhausted  the  resources,  of 
this  luifortunate  district.     The  Em- 
peror Henry  VII.,  who  came  into  Italy 
to  vindicate    the  imperial   authority, 
completed  the  ruin  of  Cremona  when 
he  attacked  it  in  1312 ;  and  in  1322 
Graleazzo  Visconti  had  little  difficulty 
in    avenging    the    former  injuries   of 
Milan  by  taking  possession  of  Cremona, 
and  incorporating  it  with  the  duchy  of 
that  city.     It  is  now  a  thriving  place, 
containing    about   37,000   luhab.      It 
has  a  good  trade,  and  a  fair  is  held 
here  about  the  end  of  September,  a 
time  when  the  noncommercial  traveller 
will  do  well  to  keep  away.     Cremona 
was  once  celebrated  for  the  manufacture 
of  musical  instruments.     The  business 
was   hereditary  in  ^Eunilies :    and  the 
remote  ancestors  of  Amati^  the  most 
renowned  of  these  modem  makers  who 
flourished    1704-1739,    had    supplied 
Charles  IX.  of  France  with  excdlent 
lutes  and  viohns.      The   instruments 
of  the  last  Amati  are  yet  in  great  re- 
pute, and  fetch  high  prices.     He  was 
succeeded  in  reputation  by  Stradivarius 
and  G^uarnierij  at  present  the  instni- 


248 


Eotde  25. — Cremona — Cathedral. 


Sect.  III. 


ments  made   here    have    no  peculiar 
excellence. 

The  public  works  of  CJremona  were 
undertaken  in  the  short  intervals  of 
tranquillity  which  that  city  enjoyed. 
In  1107,  after  a  sharp  struggle  with 
Brescia,  the  Cremonese  began  their 
Cathedral,  which,  however,  was  not 
consecrated  tiU  1190,  by  which  time 
the  nave  and  the  aisles  were  completed. 
Little  moore  was  done  till  after  Cremona 
had  become  united  to  the  duchy  of 
Milan.  In  1342  the  transepts  were  com- 
menced, but  the  choir  was  not  finished 
tiU  1479.  The  facade  was  begun  in 
1274,  continued  in  1491,  ornamented 
in  1525,  and  terminated  in  1606.  The 
various  times  at  which  the  fabric  was 
constructed  sufficiently  account  for  the 
different  styles  of  its  architecture.  In 
the  front,  which  is  of  marble,  the 
Lombard  predominates,  and  the  pillars 
of  the  porch  rest  upon  the  usual 
griffonised  lions,  of  which  one  grasps 
the  serpent,  the  other  an  animal  which 
holds  a  bird  between  its  paws.  The 
zodiac  is  over  the  door,  and  Count 
Von  Hammer  Purgstall  has  made 
good  use  of  it  in  one  of  his  treatises 
upon  the  Mithraic  mysteries.  The 
noble  rose-window,  surrounded  by  a 
rich  and  delicately  carved  vine-leaf 
moulding,  was  built  by  Qiacinto  Po- 
rata  of  Como  in  1274.  Other  parts 
of  the  exterior  are  of  moulded  brick, 
and  worked  with  much  beauty.  The 
front  of  the  N.  transept,  which  is 
entered  by  a  porch  supported  by  lions, 
is  a  fine  specimen  of  the  pointed 
style.  It  has  three  good  rose  win- 
dows. The  interior,  imusually  lofty 
for  its  width,  is  one  mass  of  colour- 
ing and  gilding.  Lanzi  considers 
this  interior  as  rivalling  the  Sixtine 
Chapel,  not,  of  course,  as  to  the 
merit  of  the  paintings,  but  in  its  pic- 
torial magnificence.  The  frescoes  in 
the  nave  occur  in  the  following  order, 
extending  to  the  end  of  the  choir : — 
On  the  1.  8  paintings  representing 
events  in  the  history  of  the  Virgin  by 
B.  Bocaccino ;  next  2  of  the  Adora- 
tion of  the  Magi  by  Bemho,  signed  and 
dated  1451;    beyond  the  organ  the 


Flight  into  Egypt,  and  the  Massacre  of 
the  Innocents,  by  Altohello  di  Melone, 
dated  1517;  followed  by  Christ  dis- 
puting with  the  Doctors,  by  Bocaccino, 
probably  the  best  of  the  series.  On  the 
opposite  side  of  the  ch.,  and  next  the 
door,  is  the  Last  Supper,  with  four 
scenes  of  the  Passion  of  our  Lord,  by 
Altobello  ;  the  two  next,  Christ  bound^ 
and  before  Pilate,  by  C.  Moretti,  fol- 
lowed by  the  Saviour  shown  to  the 
People,  by  Rornanino :  the  last  tliree, 
and  the  great  subject  of  the  Crucifixion, 
at  the  end,  are  by  Fordenone,  GDhe 
frescoes  on  either  side  of  the  principal 
entrance,  representing  a  Dead  Christ 
and  the  Maries,  are  by  the  same 
painter;  the  Besun'ection,  by  Gettij 
the  vault  of  the  choir  is  painted  by 
Bocaccino.  In  the  1st  chapel  on  the  rt. 
is  a  Madonna  and  Child,  by  Fordenone, 
surroimded  by  Saints,  and  the  portrait 
of  the  Donatorio,  one  of  the  Schizzi  fa- 
mily. The  painting  over  the  high  altar 
is  the  last  work  of  Qatti  {it  SoJaro)y  the 
Assumption  of  the  Virgin.  It  is  said 
that,  being  rendered  infirm  by  age, 
he  added  the  last  touches  to  the 
painting  with  his  left  hand.  It  was 
unfinished  at  the  time  of  his  death, 
and  it  was  completed  by  Sommac- 
chino  of  Bologna.  Four  large  frescoes 
have  been  lately  added  by  Diotti,  a 
living  artist.  "  The  southern  transept 
has  frescoes  of  subjects  from  the  Old 
Testament,  attributed  to  Giorgio  Cos- 
selli,  and  said  to  have  been  executed 
about  the  year  1383 ;  they  are  more 
curious  than  fine  in  art,  but  interesting, 
from  the  fact  of  their  having  lasted  so 
well,  especially  considering  the  damp- 
ness of  the  situation.  The  intarsiatura, 
or  inlaid  work  of  the  stalls  of  the  choir 
(1489-90),  by  Giovan^  Maria  JPlatina, 
is  very  elaborate.  The  pulpit  is  deco- 
rated with  bas-reliefs  representing  the 
Massacre  of  the  Innocents,  by  Amadeo. 
There  are  some  good  specimens  of 
mediseval  sculpture  in  the  chapels  of 
San  Nicolo,  of  San  Pietro,  and  San 
MarceUino.  In  the  transept  is  a  sin- 
gular ancient  vessel,  apparently  of  the 
9th  or  10th  centy.,  ornamented  at 
the  4  comers  with  winged  and  tailed 


liOMBARDY. 


Eoute  26. —  Cremona — Churches. 


249 


monsters,  in  which,  according  to  the 
sacristan,  St.  Alhert  was  accustomed  to 
laiead  bread  for  the  poor.    St.  Albert 
was   bom  at  Castel  Gualtieri  in  this 
neighbourhood;  and,  after  filling  the 
episcopal    chair  of  VercelU,   was,   in 
1204,    appointed  patriarch  of  Jerusa- 
lem.    He  was  the  founder  of  the  Car- 
melite Order,  and  distinguished  for  hu- 
mility and  kindness  to  the  poor.     The 
Sacristi/   still  contains  a  few  curious 
articles,  ancient  crosses,  and  the  like ; 
amongst  others  a  large  silver  crucifix 
by  Fozzi  and  Sacchi  of  Milan,  made  in 
1475.     Beneath  the  Duomo  is  a  fine, 
though  not  very  ancient  crypt,  with 
the  tombs  of  the  patron  saints  of  the 
city.     The  bas-reliefs  on  the  altar  are 
by  Amadeo. 

TheBattisteriOf  octagnal  in  the  plan, 
bmlt,  some  say  about  the  year   800, 
others  a  centy.  later,  is  in  a  plain  and 
simple  Lombard  style.    It  has,  what  is 
very  rare  in  this  class  of  edifices,  a  fine 
projecting  porch,  supported  by  lions. 
The  windows,  by  wluch  it  is  scantily 
lighted,    might  serve  for   a    Norman 
castle.      The   walls  within  have  two 
ranges    of    galleries    with     Lombard 
arches,    and    fragments    of    frescoes 
are  seen  in  the  gloom.    In  the  centre 
is  a  noble  font  hewn  out  of  a  single 
block  of  marble.    By  the  side  of  the 
Duomo,  connected  by  a  line  of  loggie^ 
rises  the  great  tower^  which  has  ob- 
tained for  Cremona  its  architectural 
celebrity.    It  was  begun  in  1283;  in 
that  year  peace  was  made  between  Cre- 
mona, Milan,  Piacenza,  and  Brescia ; 
and  in  celebration  of  this  event  this 
tower  was  undertaken  at  the  common 
expense  of  the  G-uelphs,  or  partisans 
of  the  Pope,  not  only   of  Cremona, 
but    of   all    northern    Italy.     It    is 
said  to  have  been  carried  up  to  where 
the  square  portion  terminates  in  the 
space  of  two  years.    The  Torazzo,  as 
it  is  called,  is  the  highest  of  all  the 
towers    iu  the  N.   of  Italy,   396  ft. 
498  steps  lead  to  its  summit,   from 
which  the  eye  surveys  the  extensive 
plains  of  the  Milanese,  intersected  by 
the  Po,  and  distinguishes  the  Alps  to 
the  H".  and  the  Apennines  to  the  S.W. 
N,  Jifa^y— 1866. 


In  1518  the   bells  were    cast    that 

hang  in  this  tower,  at  which  time  it 

may  be  concluded  the  octagonal  cupola 

was  added.    In  the  third  story  is  an 

enormous  clock,  put  up  in  1594.    The 

custode  of  the  Torazzo  hves  in  it.    The 

staircase  is  not  in  the  best  repair;  but 

it  can  be  ascended  without  difficulty. 

The  ancient  doggrel  rhyme — 

"  Untu  Petrut'est  in  Roma, 
Una  turris  in  Cremona^ — 

is  an  illustration  of  the  popular  cele- 
brity of  this  campanile.  It  had  once 
a  chance  of  becoming  even  still  more 
celebrated.  In  1414  the  Emperor 
Sigismund  and  the  Pope  visited  Cre- 
mona, then  subject  to  the  usurped 
authority  of  Gabrino  Fondulo.  The 
Signore  was  cruel  and  treacherous,  but 
wise  and  talented.  The  sovereign  and 
pontiff  consulted  with  him ;  and,  by 
his  advice,  Constance  was  fixed  upon 
as  the  place  where  the  great  council 
was  to  be  held  for  the  purpose  of  re- 
storing tlie  peace  of  Christendom ;  and 
Sigismund,  besides  other  marks  of 
favour,  gave  to  Gabrino  the  authority 
of.  a  vicar  of  the  empire  in  Cremona. 
Gabrino  invited  his  illustrious  guests 
to  mount  the  Torazzo  and  enjoy  the 
prospect,  and  he  alone  accompanied 
them.  They  all  came  down  in  safety ; 
but  when  Gabrino  was  brought  to  the 
scaffold  at  Milan  in  1425,  he  said  that 
only  one  thing  in  the  course  of  his 
life  did  he  regret — that  he  had  not 
had  quite  courage  enough  to  push  Pope 
and  Emperor  over  the  battlements,  in 
order  that  he  might  have  profited  by 
the  confusion  which  such  a  catastrophe 
would  have  occasioned  in  Italy. 

Near  the  cathedral  is  what  is  called 
the  Campo  Santo,  though  now  used 
as  the  repository  of  the  archives,  and 
where  the  functionaries  of  the  cathe- 
dral assemble.  It  contains  a  vault, 
to  which  you  descend  by  about  14 
steps ;  in  it  is  an  exceedingly  curious 
but  puzzling  mosaic  pavement,  with 
allegorical  figures  representing  a  Cen- 
taur fighting  against  a  figure  repre- 
senting Cruelty,  Faith  and  a  figm« 
kneeling  before  her,  and  Pitv  conquered 
by  Impiety.    It  seems  to  be  an  ear'' 


260 


Boute  25, — Cremona — Churches, 


Sect.  in. 


Christian  work.  The  place  was  evi- 
dently an  ancient  Christian  cemetery, 
as  appears  not  only  from  its  name, 
but  from  the  bones  and  the  inscriptions 
foimd  there. 

There  are  some  desecrated  churches 
of  interest : — S,  Domenico,  with  a  hand- 
some facade,  rose  window,  and  much 
ornamentation ;  S.  Luca,  with  a  good 
cinquecento  porch  and  circular  bap- 
tistery. 

Cremona  had  many  convents,  almost 
all  of  which  are  demolished.  The 
chm'ches  are  generally  of  dark  red  brick : 
those  which  have  escaped  demolition 
or  modernisation  are  usually  Gothic. 
Several  of  these  edifices  are  represented 
in  Mr.  Griiner's  recent  work  on  the  Brick 
alid  Terracotta  Buildings  of  N.  Italy. 

Santa  Agata  is  one  of  these  j  and 
the  architectural  traveller  will  here  find 
what  we  should  call  the  earliest  Nor- 
man capitals,  from  which  spring  the 
latest  Gothic  arches.  This  church  con- 
tains several  excellent  specimens  of 
GiuHo  Catupi;  one,  the  Martyrdom  of 
Sta.  Agata,  dated  1537,  has  obtained 
high  commendations  from  Yasari,  usu- 
ally so  sparing  in  liis  commendations 
of  Lombard  artists. 

Santa  Margherita,  annexed  to  the 
episcopal  sem inary.  At  an  earlier  period 
it  was  a  priory,  and  has  much  in- 
terest, as  having  been  built  imder  the 
directions  of  the  celebrated  Jerome 
Vida.  Vida  employed  GHulio  Campi 
to  decorate  the  church  with  his  paint- 
ings, of  which  there  are  many  j  the' 
best  is  the  Circimicision. 

San  Nazaro.  The  cupola  painted 
partly  by  Oiulio  Ca/tnpi,  and  partly  by 
Malosso  from  his  designs.  Over  the 
high  altar  is  a  good  picture  by  Alto- 
hello. 

Sant*  Agostino,  and  San  Q-iacomo 
in  Breda,  a  fine  Gothic  church  with 
some  remarkable  paintings. — JPerugino, 
the  Yirgin  and  the  two  Saints,  a  pic- 
ture of  great  merit,  dated  1490,  carried 
off  by  the  French,  and  restored  in 
1815. —  G.  B.  Zw^f^^^*,  the  Virgin  and 
Child  in  a  beautiful  landscape. — Ma- 
lossOf  a  Deposition ;  the  Temptation  of 
St.  Anthony. — MasserotU^  St.  Augus- 


tine, and  personifications  of  the  Orders 
supposed  to  have  arisen  out  of  the  rules 
constituted  by  the  Saint. 

San  Giorgio,  more  generally  known 
as  S.  PietrOy  a  sumptuous  building 
with  numerous  paintings.  —  Campi 
and  Ermenegildo  da  Lodi,  the  Christian 
Virtues  in  the  vaulting  of  the  nave. — 
A,  Campi,  a  Holy  Family,  the  Infant 
playing  with  a  Bird,  in  tlie  3rd  chapel 
on  1. — The  piece  over  the  high  altar  : 
the  Virgin  and  Child  surrounded  by 
Saints,  dated  1527;  it  was  originally 
painted  for  the  Servites  in  the  sup- 
pressed church  of  San  Vittore.  The 
price  for  which  Campi  stipulated  was 
250  Milanese  lire,  and  a  mass  per 
diem  during  seven  months.  —  JBer- 
nardino  Gatii,  or  Sojaro,  a  Na- 
tivity; the  main  idea  taken  from  the 
celebrated  Notts  of  Correggio,  retain- 
ing nearly  the  whole  general  composi- 
tion, but  illuminated  by  the  Ught  of 
day.  There  is  a  large  painting  of  the 
Murder  of  St.  Thomas  h,  Becket  at 
Canterbury,  in  the  N.  transept. 

The  Palazzo  Publico,  a  reUc  of  an- 
cient Cremona,  was  begun  in  1206,  and 
is  supported  by  lofty  arches.  Two 
towers  are  annexed  to  the  building. 
The  ancient  gates  of  brass  are  said  to 
have  been  put  up  in  1245,  in  the 
expectation  of  a  visit  from  the  Pope 
and  the  Emperor.  Tlie  exterior  has 
recently  lost  much  of  its  character, 
owing  to  repairs.  Tlie  interior,  now- 
used  for  tlie  Tovm  Hall,  contains 
several  paintings.  —Grazio  Cossale,  the 
Descent  of  the  Manna,  dated  1597. — 
A.  Campi,  the  Visitation. — Malosso, 
the  Protectors  of  the  City,  Saints  Hi- 
merius  and  Homobonus.  In  the  ante- 
chamber is  a  chimney-piece  of  alabaster, 
brought  from  the  Raimondi  Palace, 
sculptured  in  Arabesque  style  by  Pe- 
doni,  in  which  the  artist  has  introduced 
a  portrait  of  Marshal  Trivulzio :  it  is 
much  praised  by  Cicognara. 

Near  this  Palazzo  is  another  and 
better  example,  of  the  Italian- Gothic 
applied  to  civil  purposes,  in  wliich  the 
College  of  Jurisconsults  used  to  hold 
their  sittings.  It  is  now  a  boys*  school. 
It  is  built  of  finely  moulded  brick. 


LOMBARDY. 


Route  25. — Cremona  to  Mantua, 


251 


There  ^re  many  private  residences  in 
Cremona ;  some  oi  the  older  ones  are 
fair  specimens  of  the  Cinquecento  style. 
Such  is  the  Palazzo  San  Secundo  :  the 
sculptures  on  the  exterior  are  by  £er- 
nardo  Sacchk  The  Palazzo  Raimondi 
is  by  Pedoni ;  the  pilasters  are  of  a  most 
fanciful  style,  and  adorned  with  ara- 
besques. 

There  are  some  tolerably  good  col- 
lections of  pictures  at  Cremona. 

Marchese  Pallamcin%  a  Presentation 
by  Bernardino  Campi;  an  excellent 
library  and  some  curious  manuscripts. 

Count  Schizzi,  many  specimens  or  the 
Cremonese  school,  i.  Campi,  a  Na- 
tivity, considered  as  one  of  liis  best 
works. 

Count  Ala  Ponzoni^  a  rich  collection 
of  drawings  (some  by  Michel  Anffelo)^ 
paintings,  and  coins. 

The  (Sstrict  round  Cremona  produces 
flax  of  a  superior  quality.  Numerous 
remains  of  ancient  castles  are  scattered 
over  it. 

Diligences  run  at  6  and  8J  A.M.  and 
at  3  p.m:.  from  Cremona  to  Brescia, 
and  to  Mantua,  Parma,  and  Piacenza. 

Rlys.  in  progress  from  Cremona  to 
Pavia  and  Brescia ;  and  another  pro- 
jected to  Mantua. 

A  quarter  of  an  hour's  drive  beyond 
Cremona,  on  the  Mantuan  side,  but 
not  exactly  on  the  road,  is  the  noble 
church  of  San  Sigismondo.  It  was 
in  this  chiurch  that  Francesco  Sforza 
married  Beatrice,  the  only  child  of 
Fihppo  Maria  Yisconti  (Oct.  25, 
1441)  ;  and  thus,  after  the  death  of  his 
father-in-law,  became  the  founder  of  the 
new  dynasty.  Cremona  was  the  dowry 
of  the  bride ;  and  Francesco,  as  a  token 
of  aiSection  both  to  her  and  to  the  city, 
rebuilt  the  church  as  it  now  stands.  It 
consists  of  a  single  nave  Tvith  twelve 
chapels,  and  is  full  of  the  works  of 
native  artists. — A,  Campi,  the  Decolla- 
tion of  St.  John  the  Baptist.  The  vault- 
ing of  the  chapel  in  which  this  picture 
is  placed,  as  well  as  the  paintings  of 
SS.  John  the  Baptist,  Phihp,  and  James, 
are  all  by  Campi,  and  he  claims  them  by 
an  inscription  dated  1577.  —Bernardino 
Campi^  St.  Philip  and  St.  James.    The 


vaulting  is  by  him:  the  chapel  was 
finished  by  Malosso. — Oiulio  Campi,  an 
interesting  picture  for  its  portraits,  over 
the  high  altar ;  the  Virgin  and  Child, 
and  Francesco  Sforza  and  Bianca  Maria 
Visconti  presented  to  them  by  St.  Sigis- 
mund  with  St.  Chrysanthus  by  his  side. 
The  painter  has  introduced  his  own 
likeness  and  that  of  his  mistress  in  the 
faces  of  the  latter  saint  and  of  Santa 
Daria.  Campi  has  subscribed  his  name 
and  date,  15'M).  He  was  paid  200  scudi 
d'oro  for  the  work.  The  vaulting  of  the 
nave,  representing  the  history  of  Jonah, 
is  entirely  covered  with  paintings,  prin- 
cipally hj  Bernardino  Gatti:  the  smaller 
ornaments,  angels,  foliage,  and  the  like, 
by  him,  are  graceftil  and  beautiful. — 
By  Camillo  Boccaccino  are  the  paintisgs 
in  the  tribune  and  round  the  high  altar. 
Of  these  Lanzi  says,  "  the  finest  are 
the  four  Evangehsts ;  three  are  seated ; 
St.  John  is  standing,  his  figure  thrown 
backwards,  as  if  by  a  movement  of  sur- 
prise, and  skilful  in  the  drawing  and 
perspective.  It  seems  strange  that  so 
young  a  man  as  Camillo,  and  one  who 
never  frequented  the  school  of  Cor- 
reggio,  should  so  well  have  caught  his 
style :  this  work,  which  is  a  model  in 
perspective  and  the  optical  delusion  of 
effect,  was  finished  in  1537.  The  two 
side  pictures  are  also  much-esteemed 
works  of  CamQlo.  One  represents  the 
resurrection  of  Lazarus ;  the  other,  the 
Woman  taken  in  Adultery:  both  are 
surrounded  by  an  elegant  frieze,  in 
which  the  angels  sporting  with  a  cro- 
zier  and  other  sacred  emblems  are  ad- 
mirable for  their  Hfe  and  grace. 

"The  church  of  St.  Sigismund  is 
literally  covered  with  the  works  of  the 
brothers  Campi;  hardly  a  square  inch 
has  been  left  vacant.  These  frescoes, 
bearing  date  many  of  them  1566-77, 
are  all  vigorous  and  brilliant,  and  are 
perhaps,  on  the  whole,  some  of  the 
best  that  could  be  adduced  in  favour 
of  the  material.  Among  other  colours, 
a  green  of  an  emerald  kind,  and  a  most 
vivid  blue,  I  have  never  before  seen 
equally  well  preserved :  they  are  espe- 
cially brilUant  here  in  an  Ascension  bv 
Bernardino  Oatto,  called  il  Soja^ 

n2 


252 


Boute  25. — Cremona  to  Mantua, 


Sect.  III. 


pupil  of  Correggio.  Probably  this 
church  was  built  of  better  materials 
and  on  a  drier  soil,  as  the  walls  with 
their  decorations  are  in  perfect  preser- 
vation down  to  the  very  pavement." 
—S.  A.  Marty  E.A. 

1  post  Cigognolo.  Near  this  place  is 
an  ancient  castle,  modernised,  bui;  still  a 
fine  object. 

Pass  Villa  Picinardiy  which  has  a 
galleiy  aiid  library,  and  gardens  pos- 
sessing local  celebrity. 

San  Lorenzo, 

li  Fiadena,  a  small  town.  In  Latin 
Flatina,  and  as  such  it  has  given  its 
name  to  Bartolomeo  Sacchi,  the  his- 
torian of  the  popes,  this  being  his 
birthplace.  [Here  a  road  branches  off 
Oft  the  rt.  to  Casal  Maggiore.'^ 

Pass  Calvatone  on  1.,  the  site  of 
Bedriacum,  and  near  that  of  Vegra, 
destroyed  by  Attila. 

^  Bozzolo,  a  good -sized  town  of 
5000  Inhab.,  anciently  a  small  inde- 
pendent repubUc. 

San  Martino  delV  Argine ;  a  mile 
beyond  which  cross  the  Oglio  at  Mar- 
cariaf  where  is  an  ancient  castle. 

1^  Ca^tellucchioy  2  m.;  after  passing 
which,  and  about  7  m.  from  Mantua, 
we  reach  the  Austrian  frontier  at 
Le  Grazie.  Here  is  the  church  of  ^a. 
Maria  d^lle  Grazie^  consecrated  in 
1406,  and  built  by  Francesco  Gonzaga, 
Lord  of  Mantua,  as  the  sanctuary  of 
a  supposed  miraculous  painting  of  the 
Madonna,  which  had  previously  been 
venerated  in  a  small  church  situated 
upon  the  bank  of  the  adjoining  marshy 
lake.  The  chief  votaries  of  this  sacred 
object  were  the  boatmen  of  the  lake. 
But  in  1399  Gonzaga  addressed  his 
vows  to  the  image,  praying  that  the 
Yirgin  would  intercede  for  the  de- 
liverance of  Mantua  from  the  pesti- 
lence wliich  then  desolated  Italy,  and 
the  result  was  the  erection  of  this 
church,  together  with  the  now  sup- 
pressed monastery,  of  which  only  a 
small  portion  remains,  tenanted  by  the 
two  chaplains  by  whom  divine  ser- 
vice is  performed.  The  architecture  is 
good  Italian-Gothic  j  the  church  con- 
tams  a  strange  array  of  votive  images 


arranged  on  each  side  of  the  nave  above 
the  arches,  upon  columns  richly  gilt 
and  caryed!.    They  are  as  large  as,  and 
coloured  to  life,  in  every  kind  of  cos- 
tume,   representing    the    individuals 
whose  gratitude  is  commemorated  in 
the  verses  beneath.  .  Here  may  be  seen 
the  Emperor  Charles  V.,  Federigo  Gon- 
zaga,  Pope  Pius  II.,  the  Oonnetable 
de  Bourbon,  and  a  host  of  other  cele- 
brities.     Others  represent  the   trials 
and   perils   from  which  the  votaries 
have  been  delivered,  torture,  anguish, 
death.     All  testify  their  gratitude  to 
the  Virgin  for  the  help  they  have  ob- 
tained through  her  intercession. 

The  choir  is  painted  by  Lattanzio 
Gambara,  of  Brescia,  and  there  ar© 
also  several  ciu-ious  paintings  in  the 
numerous  side  chapels.  There  are  also 
some  interesting  monuments.  One  of 
the  most  remarkable  is  that  of  Baltas- 
sare  CastigUone  (ob.  1529),  the  cele- 
brated author  of  the  *  Cortigiano :'  the 
epitaph  was  written  by  Cardinal  Bembo, 
and  the  monument  designed  by  Giulio 
jRomano.  The  mausoleum  is  simple 
and  noble — ^a  plain  sarcophagus,  sur- 
mounted by  a  statue  of  our  Lord.  Bal- 
tassare's  wife,  Ippplita  Torelli,  had  pre- 
viously been  buried  here  j  a  touching 
epitaph  declares  her  beauty  and  virtues. 
Camillo,  their  son,  Hes  in  the  same 
chapel.  The  supposed  miraculous  pic- 
ture of  the  Yirgin  is  an  Italian  paint- 
ing, apparently  not  older  than  the  15th 
century.  A  long  dark  cloister,  much 
dilapidated,  leads  to  the  church.  It  is 
still  annually  visited  by  large  numbers 
of  pilgrims,  yet  it  looks  deserted  and 
decayed. 

Curtatone,  on  the  Lago  Superiore, 
formed  by  the  widening  of  the  Mincio. 
Here  was  fought,  on  the  29th  May, 
1848,  a  very  sanguinary  action  between 
the  Austrians  and  the  Tuscan  auxiliaries 
of  Carlo  Alberto,  the  latter  composed 
chiefly  of  volunteers,  who  defended 
themselves  heroically  against  a  superior 
force  before  retreating.  In  tliis  battle 
the  students  of  the  university  of  Pisa 
took  a  distinguished  part. 

The  tract  around  Mantua  is  called 
the  Serraglio,  from  the  ancient  wails 


XiOMBARDY. 


Route  27. — MUan  to  Peschiera, 


253 


built  to  defend  the  city  against  the 
tyrant  Eccelino  da  Eomano.  The 
country  is  very  fertile,  but  not  agree- 
able, from  the  marshes  upon  Which  it 
borders.  The  gnats  and  mosquitoes 
are  numerous  and  annoying  in  simimer. 

AccordtQg  to  Donatus,  Yirgil  was 
bom  at  Andes;  a  local  and  very  ancient 
tradition  has  identified  this  place  with 
£Hetole,  about  2  m.  S.  of  Mantua,  at 
tbe  extremity  of  the  Lago  Inferiore, 
surrounded  by  woods  and  groves,  in 
■which  the  willow  predominates.  One 
of  the  G-onzagas  built  a  palace  here, 
to  which  he  gave  the  name  of  the  Vir- 
ffUiana. 

1  Mantua  (see  Ete.  30). 


ROUTE  27. 

MILAN  TO  THE  AUSTEIAN  FEONTIEE  AT 
PESCHIEBA,  BY  TEETIGLIO,  BBEGAMO, 
BEESCIA,  SOLFEEINO,  ETC. — BAIL. 


KIL. 

KIL. 

Milan  to 

.Palazzolo  .    . 

.    74 

Ltmlto  Stat.]    . 

.  11 

Coccaglio    .    . 

.    82 

Helzo.    .    •    . 

.  19 

Ospedalletto  . 

.    90 

CassaDO  .    .    . 

.  26 

Brescia     .    . 

.  101 

TrevlgUo     .    . 

.  32 

Rezzato     ,    . 

.  110 

VerdeUo.    .    . 

.  42 

Ponte  S.  Marco 

.  118 

Beroamo     .    . 

.  52 

Lonato  .    .    . 

.  125 

Seriate.    .    .    . 

i  6Y 

Desenzano .    . 

.  129 

Gorlago  .    .    , 

.  64 

Peschiera   .    . 

.  144 

Qnunello     .    . 

.  1Q 

144  kil.  =  89i  Eng.  m. 

The  Bly.,  completed  the  whole 
way  from  Milan  to  Yenice,  offers 
the  most  convenient  means  of  visiting 
Bergamo  and  Brescia,  and  the  Alpine 
valleys,  of  considerable  beauty  and 
interest,  that  open  into  the  plains  of 
Jjombardy  between  the  lakes  of  Oomo 
and  Garda.  Trains  start  6  times  a  day 
from  Milan,  employing  IJ  to  If  hr.  to 
Bergamo,  3*15  to  Brescia ;  and  3  trains 
in  sjhrs.  to  Desenzano,  near  which  the 
territory  of  the  new  Italian  kingdom 
ends,  two  of  which  continue  onwards 
to  Peschiera,  Verona,  and  Yenice, 
reaching  Venice  in  10  hrs. 


The  Ely.  follows  in  a  straight  line 
to  the  Adda,  passing  by 

11  kQ.  Limito  Stat.^ 

8  kil.  Melzo  Stat.y  descending  as  it 
approaches  the  Adda,  before  reaching 

7  kil.  Cassano  Stat,  a  httle  way 
below  the  town,  and  crossing  the  river 
on  a  handsome  bridge.  Cassano  is  a 
large  town  ftdl  of  silk- works.  There  are 
some  ruins  of  an  ancient  castle.  Gas- 
sano  occupies  an  important  military 
position  on  tlie  Adda,  at  ^hich  were 
fought  two  sanguinary  battles,  between 
Venddme  and  Prince  Eugene,  in  1705, 
and  between  Suwarrow  and  Moreau 
the  27th  April,  1799.  Crossing  the 
plain  for  3  m.,  we  arrive  at 

6  kil.  Treviglio  Stat,  near  the  town 
of  the  same  name  of  6000  Xnhab.,  a  long, 
straggling  place.  The  church  is  ratKer 
a  remarkable  building,  and  there  are 
some  good  second-rate  pictures  in  it. 
Railway  for  Caravaggio,  Crema,  and 
Cremona  (see  Bte.  25). 

p?he  more  direct  road  to  Brescia, 
along  which  a  rlwy.  is  projected,  is 
by  Caravaggio  (to  which  it  is  open) 
and  Chiari,  but,  except  its  passing 
through  a  very  rich  district,  offers 
little  interest,  whUst  the  present  line 
of  rly.  makes  a  considerable  detour 
to  include  Bergamo,  running  through 
a  more  picturesque  country. 

Mozzonica,  near  the  river  Serio,  a 
small  village. 

13  m.  Antignate, 

5  m.  on  1.  is  Komano,  a  large  town 
in  the  midst  of  a  fertile  district  j  it  is 
the  country  of  Rubini,  the  celebrated 
tenor,  who  built  himself  a  handsome 
villa  near  it. 

Calcio,  near  the  rt.  bank  of  the  Oglio, 
once  a  small  and  independent  commu- 
nity, and  still  a  flourishing  place  ;  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  on  a 
rising  ground,  is  TJrago  W  Oglio. 

8  m.  CTiiari,  a  town  of  10,000  Inhab., 
whose  ruined  walls  mark  its  ancient 
importance.  Many  Roman  remains  are 
found  here.  The  principal  church  is  a 
building  of  considerable  size.  Much 
trade  is  carried  on,  especially  in  silk. 
2}  m.  beyond  Chiari  is  Coccaglio,  on 
the  rly.  between  Bergamo  and  Brescia.] 


254 


Eoute  27. — Bergmno, 


Sect.  III. 


On  leaving  Treviglio  the  rly.  runs 
parallel  to  the  course  of  the  Aada  and 
Brembo,  but  at  a  distance  of  some 
miles,  as  far  as  Bergamo,  through 
a  country  richly  cultiyated  in  mulberry 
plantations,  especially  on  approaching 
the  liilly  region. 

10  kil.  Vcrdello  Stat.,  near  the  large 
village  of  that  name  on  the  1.  From 
here  the  hills  behind  Bergamo,  and  the 
Alps  beyond,  come  finely  into  view,  the 
line  ascending  gradually  .to 

10  kil.  Bergamo  Stat. 

Bebgamo.  {Inns:  the  only  ones 
are  in  the  lower  town;  the  Albergo 
d' Italia  the  best,  obliging  people,  and 
a  good  restaurant;  the  trout  of  the 
Lakeof  Iseo  is  particularly  good ;  there 
is  an  Inn^  the  Gapello,  near  the  Bly. 
Stat.,  with  a  good  and  much  fre- 
quented restaurant.)  There  are  pubUc 
conveyances  to  Edolo  and  the  Val  Ca- 
monica  on  Monday,  Wednesday,  and 
Friday,  by  Railway  as  far  as  Gror- 
lago,  and  then,  ascending  by  the  Yal 
Oavallina,  the  road  passes  by  Lovere 
and  JBrenOf  and  reaches  Edolo  the  same 
evening,  returning  on  the  intermediate 
days :  or  the  tourist  may  go  from  Edolo 
to  BresdLa  without  returning  to  Ber- 
gamo, on  Tues.,  Thurs.,  and  Sat. ;  to 
Zoffno  and  JPiazza  in  the  Yal  Brem- 
bana  daily.     Rly  to  Lecco. 

Bergamo,  which  contains  upwards 
of  38,000  Inhab.,  consists  of  an  upper, 
the  CiTTA,  and  a  lower  town,  the  latter 
called  the  Borgo  of  San  Leonardo, 
half  a  mile  distant  from  each  other. 
Travellers  should  not  faQ  to  visit  the 
fwmer,  in  which  the  most  interesting 
objects  are  contained,  the  lower  town 
bemg  the  seat  of  business. 

The  Cittk  or  old  town  of  Bergamo, 
the  Pergamus  of  ancient  writers,  stiuids 
upon  a  steep  and  lofty  hill,  one  of  the 
last  spurs  of  the  j4Jps  towards  the 
plain ;  two  roads  lead  to  it  from  the 
lower  town — that  from  the  Prato,  good 
and  lined  with  trees,  easy  of  access  to 
carriages,  and  that  from  the  Piazza  de* 
Mercanti,  but  steeper  and  more  direct, 
both  uniting  at  the  huge  Doric  Porta 
di  S.  Giacomo. 

The  position  of  Bergamo  caused  it 


to  be  strongly  fortified  by  the  Vene- 
tians, the  greater  part  of  the  walls, 
although  dismantled,  still  standing,  and 
now  converted  into  beautiful  boule- 
vards, commanding  views  of  extraordi- 
nary beauty  and  extent ;  the  walk  near 
the  Porta  S.  Giacomo  on  the  S.  side  of 
the  town  is  particularly  interesting  in 
this  respect,  extending  to  the  Alps  and 
Apennines,  over  the  plains'  of  Lom- 
bardy,  in  which  the  steeples  of  Milan, 
Monza,  and  Cremona  are  so  conspicu- 
ous objects :   there  are  two  principal 
gates — of  S.  Giacomo  on  the  E.,  above 
which  is  the  Bocca,  now   converted 
into  a  barrack ;    and  the  Porta  di  S. 
Alessandro  on  the  W.,  over  which  rises 
the  bastion  once  connected  with  the 
CasteUo,  and  wliich,  commanding  the 
town,  was  included  in  its  outworks. 

The  houses  of  the  Citta  are  solid 
and  lofty :  narrow  streets  and  narrower 
oicoU,  the  sides  often  joined  together 
by  arches.  In  every  part  of  the  CiM 
are  vestiges  of  the  middle  ages — pointed 
archways,  courts  surrounded  by  ar- 
cades upon  massive  columns,  seen  in 
perspective  through  the  gateways.  The 
Cittd  is  inhabited  by  the  Bergamasc 
nobility,  who  keep  themselves  apart 
from  the  traders  of  the  lower  town. 
Amongst  themselves  they  maintain 
the  use  of  the  Bergamasc  dialect,  the 
most  inh£urmonious  perhaps  of  north- 
em  Italy. 

Harlequin,  according  to  the  tradi- 
tional cast  of  the  ancient  Italian  drama, 
was  a  Bergamasc,  and  the  personification 
of  the  manners,  accent,  and  jargon  of 
the  inhabitants  of  the  Yal  Brembana. 

The  principal  objects  of  interest  in 
the  upper  town  are  included  in  a  very 
limited  space  surrounding  the  great 
square,  now  Piazza  Garibaldi,  viz. 
the  Palazzo  Nuovo  or  della  Ra- 
gione,  the  Palazzo  VecchiOy  and 
the  Public  Library ;  the  church  of 
Sta,  Maria  Maggiore  and  the  CoUeoni 
chapel  opening  out  of  it;  the  Cathedral 
and  the  ch.  of  Santa  Chrata  in  one 
of  the  adjoining  streets.  A  few  hours 
will  suffice  to  see  everything  here,  in-"^ 
eluding  an  excursion  to  the  hill  of  the 
Castello,  which  no  one  fond  of  fine 


XjOmbardy.     Boute  27. — Bergamo — S.  Maria  Maggiore. 


255 


scenery  should- omit  to  visit ;  all  tliis 
xnay  be  done  between  the  arrival  and 
departure  of  two  successive  railway 
trains,  by  taking  a  carriage  at  the 
station. 

The  JPalazzo  Nuovo  or  della  Ragione 
-was  erected  from  the  designs  of  Sca- 
mozzi,  and  has  never  been  finished,  the 
onlj  parts  completed  being  the  Doric 
portico  and  the  left  wing,  on  the  front 
of  which  is  a  bust  of  B.  CoUeoni ;  this 
palace  is  now  occupied  by  the  mimicipal 
authorities  and  offices,  and  forms  one 
side    of  the  Piazza ;   opposite  to   it 
stands  the  Palazzo  VeccMo^  or  Bro' 
letto,    resting   upon    3   lofty    Q-othic 
arches,   with    a  projecting  ringhiera. 
The  capitals  of  the  pillars  which  sup- 
port it  have  curious  Lombard  sculp- 
tures ;  in  front  of  it  has  been  placed  a 
statue  of  Tasso,  whomJBergamo  claims 
for  one  of  its  citizens,  as,  although  bom 
elsewhere  (Sorrento),  his  father  was  a 
native  of  this  town,  and  compelled  by 
proscription  to  leave  it.    The  Pubhc 
Ijibrary  fills  the  apartment  on  the  first 
floor  of  the  P.  Vecchio ;  passing  under 
one   of  its  arches,  we  find  ourselves 
in  front  of  the  ch.  of  Santa  Maria  Mag- 
giore and  the  fine  fa9ade  of  the  Colleoni 
chapel  annexed  to  it. . 

Ch.  ofSta,  Maria  Maggiore.  A  por- 
tion of  it  is  in  the  early  Lombard  s%^le, 
others  more  recent ;  the  more  ancient 
portion  dates  from  1134 :  the  N.  part  was 
erected  in  1360  by  Giovanni  di  Cam- 
peUo :  it  is  of  black  and  white  mar- 
ble. The  southern  porch,  elaborately 
worked,  is  surmounted  by  a  turret  con- 
taining a  statue  of  a  saint,  whilst 
over  the  principal  entrance  is  a  statue 
of  Xing  Lupus,  who  in  the  middle 
ages  enjoyed  a  great  reputation  at 
Bergamo.  The  interior  of  Sta.  Maria 
Maggiore  is  rich  in  stucco  decorations 
and  paintings  ;  the  cupola  in  the  form 
of  an  elongated  octagon ;  the  tribune 
and  transepts  supported  on  high  Italo- 
Q-othic  arches.  The  only  sepulchral 
monument  worth  noticing  is  that  of 
an  Archbishop  de  Longis  (ob.  1317)  in 
alabaster ;  a  monument  by  the  eminent 
Swiss  sculptor  Vela  has  been  recently 
erected  here  to  the  celebrated  composer 


Donizetti,  a  Bergamasc.    To  the  rt.  of 
the  small  N,  doorway,  upon  the  outer 
circular  projection   of  a    chapel,   are 
remains  of  old  frescoes  of  the  Lombard 
school,  some  supposed  to  be  as  early 
as  the  14th  centy.     The  carved  stalls 
of  the  choir  and  screen  are  amongst 
the  finest  specimens  of  wood-carving 
in  Italy,  probably  by  Stefano  da  Ber- 
gamo, the  same  who  executed  those 
exquisite   ones    after   the    designs    of 
Eaphael  in  the  church  of  S.  Pietro  at 
Perugia;  the   tarsia-work,  also   good, 
is    by    Fra    Damiano,    representing 
Scripture  subjects.     There  is  a  good 
painting  of  Our  Lord  Risen,  by  Antonio 
Mosselli.      The    choir -books    contain 
fine    illuminated     initials.      In     the 
sacristy  is  preserved  a  good  deal  of 
ancient  tapestry ;   and  in  a  room   off 
it   an  Arbor  Vitfie  in  fiasco,  bearing 
the    date    of   1347.    '    The    sacristy, 
an  octangular    building,    erected,    as 
appears  from  the  inscription,  in  1430, 
is    among    the    earUest    examples    of 
the  introduction   of   the    Roman   or 
classical  style   in   juxtaposition   with 
Gothic.    Tbe  dado  has  pointed  arches, 
but  the  two  upper  stories  are  Coi^^o- 
site,  accurately  worked.  The  campanile, 
which  is  upwards  of  300  ft.  in  height, 
is  one  of  the  towers   so   conspicuous 
in  the  view  of  the   Cittd.    Adjoining 
Sta.   Maria    Maggiore,    and    opening 
into  it,  is  the  Capella  Colleoni,   the 
sepulchral  chapel  of  Bartolommeo  Col- 
leoni, the  celebrated  condottiere  of  the 
16th  centy. ;  the  facade,  which  has  lately 
been  restored,  is  very  beautiful,  orna- 
mented with  different  coloured  marbles, 
most  elaborately  worked ;  in  two  round 
spaces  are  busts  of  Julius  Csesar  and 
Trajan,  with  their  pagan  designation 
of   Divus,  strange    ornaments  for    a 
Christian  edifice ;  the  bronze  doors  are 
modem ;  the  windows  are  divided  by 
four  columns  and  two  candelabra  stems, 
with  varied  capitals  and  arabesques, 
placed  so  close  to  each  other  tliat  the 
apertures  for  liglit  are  narrower  than 
the  diameter  of  these  columns.    The 
interior  of  the   Colleoni   chapel    has 
been  painted  chiefly  by  Tiepolo ;  there 
is  a  picture  by  2>.   Cres^  of  one  of 


256 


Souite  27. — Bergamo — Churches, 


Sect.  III. 


Colleoni's  battles,  and  a  Madonna 
with  the  infant  Saviour,  St.  John, 
and  St.  Joseph,  by  Angelica  Kwiiff' 
many  but  the  principal  ornament  is 
the  sepulchral  monument  of  the  foun- 
der (who  died  in  1475)  by  Amadeo. 
The  bas-reliefs  of  Christ  led  to  Mount 
Calvary,  the  Crucifixion  and  Entomb- 
ment, and  of  the  Nativity,  Epiphany, 
and  Annunciation,  are  very  good; 
upon  thfi  urn  above  stands  the  gilt 
equestrian  statue  of  the  great  Condot- 
tiere.  The  fine  tomb  of  Medea  Col- 
leoni,  the  child  of  Bartolommeo,  which 
formerly  stood  in  the  ch.  of  Basella  on 
the  Serio,  also  by  Amadeo^  was  re- 
moved in  1843  to  her  father's  chapel ; 
several  branches  of  the  CoUeoni  family 
still  exist  in  the  province  of  Brescia, 
collaterally  descended  firom  Bartolom- 
meo, whose  principal  possessions  were 
situated  on  the  Serio,  near  Malpaga, 
where  he,  the  last  of  the  great  Italian 
leaders  of  the  troubled  period,  retired 
in  his  older  days  in  almost  regal  splen- 
dour. Along  the  lower  line  of  the 
windows  outside  this  chapel  is  a  series 
of  small  bas-reUefs  of  the  Benaissance 
period;  3  representing  the  labours  of 
Hercules,  the  others  Scriptural  subjects 
relative  to  our  first  fiathers — the  Sacri- 
fice of  Isaac,  &c. 

The  Duomo  has  a  fine  cupola,  a 
conspicuous  object;  and  the  propor- 
tions and  general  character  of  the  build- 
ing are  good,  but  as  a  whole  it  has  a 
bare,  undecorated  look.  It  was  de- 
signed by  Antonio  Mlarete,  but  has 
since  been  much  altered.  It  contains 
several  paintings  of  interest.  At  the 
back  of  the  high  altar  is  a  Madonna, 
attributed  to  G.  Bellini  ;  over  that,  in 
the  N.  transept,  a  series  of  bas-reliefs, 
by  Fantoni  (1625),  one  of  which,  the 
DCT)Osition,singularlyresemblesEubens* 
well-known  picture  of  the  same  subject: 
the  wood-carvings  of  Kttle  children 
over  these  reUefs  were  executed  by  J. 
C.  Sanzay  1695.  In  the  3rd  chapel  on 
L,  a  Virgin,  with  SS.  Catherine  of 
Alexandria  and  Jerome,  by  II  Moretto 
da  Brescia^  signed,  and  dated  1576. 
There  was  an  ancient  octagonal  Bap- 
tistery, eaid  to  be  as  old  as  the  5th 


centy.,  with  8  slender  wall-shafts  on 
each  side ;  it  has  been  replaced  by  a 
modem  one  imitated  from  it  (1865), 

Santa  Qraia  is  the  church  of  a  re- 
stored nunnery,  which  has  been  newly 
gilt  and  decorated.      The   altarpiece, 
by   Salmeggia^   1623,    represents    the 
Virgin   and    several    Saints,   amongst 
them   Santa  G-rata  bearing  the  head 
of  St.  Alexander.     This  picture,  con- 
sidered as  the  masterpiece  of  the  artist^ 
was  carried  off  to  Paris.      There   is 
some  mosaic  work  in  this  elegant  little 
building. 

San  Spirito  contains  some  paintings 
of  interest.  At  the  4th  altar  on  the  1. 
a  Holy  Family  with  Saints,  by  Z-. 
LottOf  signed  and  dated  1521 ;  5th 
altar,  an  Ancona,  in  10  compartments, 
by  A.  Previtale ;  at  the  Ist  altar  on  1., 
St.  John  between  Saints,  one  of  the 
finest  works  of  Previtale ;  and  at  the 
2nd  altar  on  the  same  side,  an  Ancona, 
in  10  compartments,  by  Borgognone, 

Other  churches  are  Sanf  Andrea. — 
In  the  vaulting  are  frescoes  by  Bado' 
vanino — The  Virgin  and  Saints,  by  il 
Moretto*  Church  of  Sanf  Alessandro 
in  Colonna — St.  John  the  Baptist,  by 
the  younger  Batma,  Church  of  San 
Bartolommeo — A  Virgin ;  one  of  the 
best  works  of  L.  Lotto.  Church  of  San 
Michele  al  Bozzo — a  Virgin  and  Child, 
by  L.  Lotto. 

The  view  from  the  terrace  of  the 
Casa  Terzi,  one  of  the  finest  palaces 
in  the  upper  city,  is  remarkable. 

There  is  a  good  public  Hbrary  in 
the  Broletio ;  and  the  Accademia 
Ca/rrera,  with  a  collection  of  paint- 
ings, lately  enriched  by  Count  LochCs 
bequest  of  one  half  his  gallery  to  hia 
native  town. 

Bergamo  contains  some  private  col- 
lections of  paintings — the  Museo  Sopi 
the  Albani,  Camozzi,  and  Verdoa  Gul; 
leries. 

The  situation  ■  of  the  upper  town  of 
Bergamo  is  remarkably  fine.  A  walk 
of  less  than  half  an  hour  will  take 
the  traveller  to  the  hiU  of  the  Castello 
W.  of  it,  by  the  road  emerging  from 
the  Porta  di  S.  Alessandro ;  the  fort-  . 
ress  which  stood  hero  is  now  in  ruins, 


IjOMbardy.         Moute  27. — Bergamo-— Neighbourhood, 


25? 


but  the  panoramic  view  from  it  will 
amply  repay  the  trouble  of  the  ex- 
cursion ;  it  embraces  the  course  of  the 
^rembo  on  the  W.,  the  plain  of  Milaii, 
the  Brianza,  and  the  innumerable 
towers  scattered  over  them,  with  the 
steeples  of  Milan,  Monza,  and,  farther 
still,  the  Monte  Kosa,  and  even  Monte 
"Viso,  152  m.  off.  The  Apennines  be- 
yond the  Po  are  well  denned  in  clear 
■weather,  with  Crema  and  Cremona  in 
the  foreground. 

The  lower  town  is  the  seat  of  busi- 
ness. In  ordinary  times  it  offers  little 
to  interest  the  traveller ;  it  consists  of 
two  principal  streets,  that  by  which  it 
is  entered  from  Milan,  from  which 
another,  in  which  are  the  hotels  a;nd 
principal  shops,  branches  off  to  the 
Trato,  a  large  open  square,  where  the 
fair  is  held,  and  which  contains  the 
theatre,  barracks,  and  the  fine  gate 
leading  to  Crema.  An  important  fair 
ifr  held  here.  It  begins  about  the 
middle  of  August,  and  lasts  a  month. 
This  mart,  called  the  Fiera  di  Saiif 
Alessandro,  which  has  been  known  to 
have  been  held  since  the  10th  centy., 
is  the  Leipsic  fair  of  northern  Italy. 
It  is  not  only  a  very  large  business, 
but  also  a  great  pleasure  fair,  to  which 
the  gentry  of  all  the  country  about 
resort. 

Bergamo  is  celebrated  in  the  annals 
of  music  by  the  number  of  good  com- 
posers and  performers  which  it  has 
produced — amongst  them  Rubini  (d. 
1854)  and  Donizetti. 

JSeiffhhourhood  of  Bergamo,  The 
coimtry  around  is  one  of  the  most 
renowned  in  Lombardy  for  its  silk, 
the  great  source  of  the  wealth  of  its 
landed  proprietors.  The  soil  is  of  the 
greatest  fertility,  and  is  exceedingly 
well  watered,  the  rivers  Serio  and 
Brembo  being  the  main  trunks  of  irri- 
gation. 

Some  pleasant  excursions  may  be 
noticed.  There  are  many  fine  feudal 
castles  dotted  about  the  country  on  aU 
sides ;  such  as  the  Castello  di  Trezzo 
upon  the  Adda,  about  12  m.  by  the 
road    to    the  S.W.  of  Bergamo,  and 


others  to  the  eastward,  near  the  lake 
Iseo.  The  church  oiAlzano,  4  m.  from 
Bergamo  to  the  N.E.,  at  the  opening 
into  the  plain  of  the  Val  Seriana,  has 
some  fair  paintings  and  sculptures :  the 
Death  of  Peter  Martyr,  by  Z/or.  Lotto^ 
in  the  ch.  itself;  and  in  the  sacristy 
some  very  fine  sculptures  in  wood 
and  intarsiatura  of  singular  beauty  by  a 
family  of  wood-carvers  named  Fawtoni, 
**  About  8  m.  to  the  N.  of  Bergamo 
is  the  church  of  San  Tomaso  in  Limine. 
It  stands  alone  on  the  brow  of  a  hill, 
from  whence  there  is  a  beautiful  view. 
Its  extreme  age  is  obvious  from  its 
external  appearance,  but  it  is  still  in 
good  preservation,  for  which  it  is 
indebted  to  the  excellence  of  its  con- 
struction. No  record  of  the  date  of 
San  Tomaso  has  come  down  to  our 
time.  The  evidence  of  style,  however, 
places  it  among  the  buildings  of  the 
7th  century,  during  which  this  part  of 
Italy  was  at  rest,  and  a  great  zeal  for 
church-building  prevailed.  The  plan 
is  nearly  identical  with  that  of  San 
Vitale  at  Bavenna,  a  rotunda  crowned 
with  a  cupola.  The  cupola  is  not  sup- 
ported by  pendentives,  but  by  the  walls 
themselves,  assisted  by  the  lateral 
resistance  of  the  arches  of  the  wings. 
The  piUars  are  stunted  and  thick,  and 
their  capitals  exhibit  the  usual  imagery 
of  the  Lombards :  the  manner  of  con- 
struction of  the  walls  is  in  their  style. 
The  Lombards  were  fond  of  the  cir- 
cular or  octagonal  form,  and  employed 
it  in  their  churches,  as  they  did  that  of 
the  Basilica.  If  the  round  form  is  to 
be  adopted  there  can  hardly  be  foimd 
a  more  graceful  model  than  is  afforded 
by  San  Tomaso^ — &*  Knight 

Travellers  by  the  Stelvio  or  Splugen 
roads,  who  wish  to  reach  Venice  with- 
out passing  through  Milan,  may  con- 
veniently take  the  road  from  Como  to 
Lecoo,  which  is  heavy,  and  with  long 
ascents  and  descents,  but  affords  pleas- 
ing scenery  (See  Rte.  19.),  and  from 
the  latter  to  Bergamo  by  rail. 

[A  pleasant  excursion  may  be  made 
from  Bergamo  to  the  lake  of  Iseo,    A 

n3 


258 


Bovie  27. — Lake  of  Iseo — Lovere, 


Sect.  iir. 


good  poad  to  SarnicOf  which  is  situated 
at  the  S.  end  of  the  lake  where  the  Oglio 
leaves  it,  turns  ojff  from  the  Rly.  Stat, 
at  Grumello,  from  which  the  distance 
to  Samico  is  about  6  m.  (A  train  at 
8i  A.M.  from  Bergamo  for  Grumello, 
from  which  an  omnibus  starts  daily 
at  9  A.M.  for  Samico.)  At  less  than 
halfway,  near  where  the  rly.  crosses  the 
Cherio,  Qorlago  is  about  a  mile  to  the 
1.  of  the  road,  which  has  a  church 
containing  some  valuable  paintings, 
and  a  saloon  painted  in  fresco  by 
CHulio  Romano,  and  now  used  as  a  hay- 
loft. About  4  m.  before  reaching  Sar- 
nico,  on  the  rt.  of  the  road,  is  the  old 
castle  of  CalepiOy  built  in  1430,  and 
finely  placed  on  the  steej)  banks  of  the 
OgHo.  There  is  a  poorish  Inn — the 
Leone  cT  Oro,  kept  by  Antonio,  a  civil 
fellow — at  Sarnico.  The  lake  of  Iseo 
presents  some  beautiful  scenery.  The 
"  Monte  dell*  Isola"  rises  boldly  from 
its  surface.  It  is  very  deep,  and 
abounds  in  fish.  The  vegetation  of 
the  shores  is  rich,  and  the  oUve- 
tree  flourishes  in  the  ^ore  sunny 
exposures.  Many  towers,  castles,  and 
villas  are  dotted  round  its  shores. 
The  Villa  Fenaroliy  at  Tavemola,  on 
the  W.  shore,  opposite  to  the  Monte 
dell'  Isola,  commands  a  fine  prospect 
of  the  lake  and  of  the  small  town  of 
Iseo  on  the  opposite  shore.  . 

The  lake  of  Iseo  (Lacus  Sebinus) 
is  the  fourth  in  size  of  the  subalpine 
lakes  of  Lombardy,  occupying  an  area 
of  22  Eng.  m.  It  has  the  same  elon- 
gated form  as  those  of  Como  and  Garda, 
and,  like  them,  fills  the  bottom  of  a 
great  trough  or  transverse  valley.  Its 
principal  feeders  are  the  rivers  Bor- 
lezza  and  OgUo,  that  descend  from  the 
Alps  through  the  Val  Camonica,  and 
its  onl^  exit  is  by  the  OgUo  at  Sar- 
nico; it  is  700  ft.  deep  in  some  parts, 
and  its  surface  is  680  ft.  above  the 
level  of  the  sea;  near  its  centre  is 
an  island,  the  largest  of  any  in  the 
ItaUan  lakes,  about  1^  m.  long,  with 
several  villages,  Siviano  and  Erza  on 
the  N.E.  side,  and  Pescliiera  on  the 
S.E.     The  climate  of  the  shores  of 


Iseo  is  nearly  the  same  as  that  of  tha 
lakes  of  Como  and  Maggiore,  but,  frx>ni 
its  greater  elevation  above  the  sea^  of  a 
more  alpine  character  than  that  of  the 
Lago  di  Garda.  The  town  Iseo,  on 
the  site  of  the  Boman  Sebum,  has  ex- 
tensive silk- works ;  it  is  said  to  owe  its 
name  to  a  temple  of  Isis.  It  is  about 
6  miles  by  the  footpath  along  the 
shore  from  Samico  to  Iseo,  which 
is  the  principal  port  on  the  lake,  and 
whence  a  steamer  starts  twice  a  day 
for  Lovere,  taking  about  2  hrs.  to  run 
the  distance.  There  is  a  tidy  Inn  at 
Iseo,  by  the  water-side,  the  Alberto 
cP Italia;  Leone  d^Oro,  tolerably  clean 
and  comfortable.  At  the  foot  of  the 
mountain,  on  the  other  side  of  the 
lake  nearly  opposite  to  Iseo,  is  JVe- 
dore,  where  there  are  some,  plantations 
of  orange  and  lemon  trees. 

Lovere  may  also  be  reached  by  a 
road  which  turns  off  to  the  1.,  out  of  the 
high  road  at  Albano,  about  5  m.  from 
Bergamo,  and  passes  through  the  baths 
of  Trescorre,  where  there  is  a  villa  of 
Count  Oiartfortey  and  a  chapel  painted 
by  Lorenzo  Lotto,  The  principal  ch. 
of  Trescorre  contains  a  good  picture 
by  Salmeggia.  Hence  the  road  runs 
up  the  VjJ.  Cavallina  by  the  side  of  the 
Cherio  torrent,  and  along  the  W.  shore 
of  two  small  lakes,  Spinone  and  Gajano. 
The  distance  from  Bergamo  to  Lovere 
by  this  road  is  about  26  Eng.  m,  (Inn  : 
il  Canone  d'Oro,  poor.) 

Lovere  is  well  known  as  the  residence 
during  several  years  of  Lady  Mary 
Wortley  Montagu,  who  thus  describes 
it  in  a  letter  to  Lady  Bute,  her  daugh- 
ter, dated  the  21st  July,  1747 :— "  I 
am  now  in  a  place  the  most  beautifully 
romantic  I  ever  saw  in  my  life ;  it  is 
the  Timbridge  of  this  part  of  the  world, 
to  which  I  was  sent  by  the  doctor's 
order,  my  ague  often  returning.  I 
found  a  very  good  lodging,  a  great  deal 
of  good  company,  and  a  village  in  many 
respects  resembling  Timbridge  Wells, 
not  only  in  the  quality  of  the  waters, 
which  is  the  same,  but  in  the  maimer 
of  the  buildings,  most  of  the  houses 
being  separate  at  little  distances,  and 
all  built  on  the  sides  of  hUls,  which 


dOMBARDY. 


Route  27. — Lovere, 


259 


indeed  are  far  different  from  those  of 
Tunbridge,  being  six  times  as  high : 
■fcliey  are  really  vast  rocks  of  different 
figures,  covered  with  green  moss   or 
Bliort  grass,  diversified  by  tufts  of  trees, 
little  v^oods,  and  here  and  there  vine- 
yards, but  no  other  cultivation,  except 
gardens  like  those  on  Bichmond-hill. 
— The   fountain  where  we  drink    the 
'waters  rises  between  two  hanging  hills, 
and  is  over-shadowed  with  large  trees 
that  give  a  freshness  in  the  hottest  time 
of  the  day."     In  a  subsequent  letter 
8h,e  describes  part  of  her  residence  : — 
*•  I  have  been  these  six  weeks,  and  still 
am,  at  my  dairy-house,  which  joins  to 
my  garden.    I  beheve  I  have  already 
told  you  it  is  a  long  mile  from  the 
castle,  which  is  situate  in  the  midst  of 
a  very  large  village,  once  a  considerable 
town,  part  of  the  walls  still  remaining, 
and   has   not  vacant  ground  enough 
about  it  to  make  a  garden,  wliich  is  my 
greatest    amusement.      This    spot    of 
ground  is  so  beautiful,  I  am  afraid  you 
will  scarce  credit  the  description,  which, 
however,  I  can  assure  you  shall  be  very 
literal,  without  any  embellishment  from 
imagination.    It  is  on  a  bank,  forming 
a  kind  of  peninsula,  raised  from  the 
river  Oglio  50  ft.,  to  which  you  may 
descend  by  easy  stairs  cut  in  the  turf, 
and  either  take  the  air  on  the  river, 
which  is  as  large  as  the  Thames  at 
Kichmond,  or,  by  walking  up  an  avenue 
200  yards  on  the  side  of  it,  you  find  a 
wood  of  100  acres,  which  was  all  ready 
cut  into  walks  and  ridings  when  I  took 
it.     I  have  only  added  15  bowers,  in 
different    views,  with    seats    of   turf. 
They  were  easily  made,  here  being  a 
large   quantity  of   underwood  and  a 
great  number  of  wild  vines,  which  twist 
to  the  top  of  the  highest  trees,  and 
from  which  they  make  a  very  good  sort 
of  wine  they  call  brusco.     I  am  now 
writing  to  you  in  one  of  these  arbours, 
which  is  so  thick-shaded  the  sun  is  not 
troublesome,  even  at  noon.    Another 
is  on  the  side  of  the  river,  where  I  have 
made  a  camp-kitchen,  that  I  may  take 
the  fish,  dress  and  eat  it  immediately, 
and  at  the  same  time  see  the  barks, 
which  ascend  or  descend  every  day  to 


or  from  Mantua,  Guastalla,  or  Pont  de 
Vie,  all  considerable  towns.  This  wood 
is  carpeted  in  their  succeeding  seasons 
with  violets  and  strawberries,  mliabited 
by  a  nation  of  nightingales,  and  filled 
with  game  of  all  kinds,  excepting  deer 
and  wild  boar,  the  first  being  unknown 
here,  and  not  being  large  enough  for 
the  other."  More  recent  travellers 
do  not  agree  in  Lady  W.  Montagu's 
enthusiastic  description  of  Lovere,  and 
suppose  she  must  have  mixed  up  in  it 
that  of  some  other  sites  on  or  about 
the  lake  of  Iseo,  as  it  conveys  no  idea 
of  the  present  state  of  the  localities. 
Still  it  is  a  delightful  place,  sur- 
rounded by  verdant  hills,  with  a 
magnificent  prospect  over  the  lake  and 
the  mountains  of  the  Yal  Gamonica. 
The  ch.  of  San  Giovanni,  crowning  a 
rocky  peninsula  W.  of  Lovere,  is  a 
conspicuous  and  picturesque  object, 

Lovere  has  two  large  churches  with 
pictures,  and  a  monument  by  Canovay 
one  of  the  repetitions  of  that  of  Vol- 
pato,  erected  by  Count  Tadini  to  his 
daughter,  who  was  crushed  by  the  fall 
of  an  arch.  There  is  a  museum  in  a 
large  building,  consisting  of  several 
indifferent  pictures ;  the  view  from  it 
over  the  lake  is  very  fine.  At  some 
distance  from  Castro,  about  2  m.  to 
the  S.  of  Lovere,  on  the  shore  of  the 
lake,  is  a  narrow  abyss  called  the 
Orrido  di  Tinazzo,  where  the  torrent 
precipates  itself  with  a  roaring  noise. 
It  is  a  very  singular  place.  The 
road  from  Lovere  to  Bergamo  is 
carried  along  it  for  several  yards 
on  arches ;  the  water  below  is  out  of 
sight.  To  the  N.E .  of  Lovere  is  the  Val 
Camonica,  through  which  the  OgUo 
flows,  and  along  which  there  is  a  good 
road  as  far  as  Edolo,  near  the  head  of 
the  valley,  from  which  another  made 
by  the  Austrians  5  or  6  years  ago  leads 
to  Ponto  di  Legno,  at  the  foot  of 
Mt.  Tonale.  Public  conveyances  start 
every  day  at  11  from  Lovere  for  Edolo, 
and  at  4  a.m.  for  Bergamo.  (See 
Sandbook  of  S.  Oermany,  Bte.  231.) 

The  traveller  who  may  not  wish  to 
return  from  Lovere  to  Bergamo  will 
find  a  very  good  road  on  the  E.  side  of 


266 


[Boute  27. — Bergdmo  to  Brescid* 


Sect.  Ill 


t.i 


the  Ue,  through  the  Tillages  of  Fisogne 
(Alhergo  del  Ghisom),  Sale,  Morazzino 
(where  there  are  some  manufactures  of 
cloths  and  blankets),  and  Sulzano,  to 
Iseo,  and  which  thence  joins  the  old 
post-road  from  Bergamo,  3  m.  before 
reaching  Brescia.] 


BEBaAHO  TO  BBESCIA. 

y 

The  distance  from  Bergamo  to  Bre- 
scia is  49  kil.  through  generally  a  fine 
country,  crossing  the  several  large 
water-courses  descending  from  the  Alps, 
which  bring  fertihty  with  them  to  the 
plains  at  their  base. 

6  kil,  from  Bergamo  the  Serio  is 
crossed,  near  the  village  of  Seriate, 
with  a  large  modem  church. 

[A  road  branches  off  from  here  on  the 
1., leading  to  the  alpine  Val  Seriana,  and 
another  to  the  rt.,  to  Martinengo  and 
Bomano,  passing  by  Malpaga,  cele- 
brated for  its  castle,  built  by  Barto- 
lommeo  Colleoni.  **  This  castle,  which 
can  also  be  reached  in  an  hour  from 
Bergamo,  will  be  well  worthy  of  a  visit, 
as  there  is  perhaps  no  edifice  of  the 
kind  which  gives  so  complete  an  idea 
of  the  residence  of  a  great  Italian 
nobleman  in  the  middle  ages.  Erected 
in  the  latter  half  of  the  15th  cent.,  it 
passed,  after  the  founder's  death,  to  one 
of  his  followers,  a  Martinengo,  in  whose 
family  it  remained  imtil  lately,  when 
it  was  sold  to  a  gentleman  of  Bergano, 
and  now  serves  for  farming  pm'poses, 
the  storing  of  agriculture  produce,  and 
the  rearing  of  silkworms ;  the  castle 
remains  to  a  great  extent  as  when 
Colleoni  died,  and  as  it  may  be  seen 
represented  in  some  of  the  frescoes  on 
its  walls.  It  consists  of  a  quadrangular 
building,  having  a  massive  tower  or 
keep  at  one  of  its  angles,  and  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  moat,  one  of  the  draw- 
bridges over  which  still  remains.  Around 
the  castle  are  the  dwellings  of  the 
chiefs  retainers  and  dependants.  The 
walls  of  the  great  court  and  the  princi- 
pal apartments  are  covered  with  frescoes 
by  Momanino  and  his  scholars,  those  of 


the  master  characterised  by  their  rich 
colours  and  fecihty  of  execution ;  they 
represent  the  principal  events   in  the 
life  of  the  great  Condottiere.     In  what 
was  the  Banquetinff-hall  are  painted 
— the  Visit  of  Christian  II.,  King  of 
Denmark,  in  1475,  where  Colleoni   is 
seen  distributing  cloth  to  his  followers; 
a   Tournament,    a    Hunting- scenes    a 
Banquet,  &c. ;  all  remarkable  for  the 
costimies  of  the  period.    On  the  outer 
walls  in  the  Court,  historical  subjects, 
such  as  the  Pope  delivering  the  baton  of 
command  to  C. ;  an  engagement  with 
the  Turks ;  the  Doge  of  Yenioe  under 
the  Portico  of  St.  Mark  appointing  him 
GeneraUssimo  of  the    armies  of  the 
BepubHc.     In  the  room  in  which  Col- 
leoni is  said  to  have  died  is  a  painting 
of  the  Virgin  and  his  patron  Saint  in 
a  niche  or  recess;   the  singular  Ar^ 
moifies  parlantes  of  the  Colleoni  iaanily 
are  profrisely  distributed  amongst  the 
pictorial  decorations  of  this  remark- 
able edifice."—^.  Jff.  i.,   Oct.  1865. 
1^  m.  between  Malpaga  and  Martinengo  ' 
is  a  curious  belfry,  rich  in  architecture 
and  sculpture,  and  the  celebrated  Ma^ 
tonda  of  Ghisalba,  one  of  the  master- 
pieces of  Cagnola. 

About  2  m.  W.  of  Malpaga,  on  the 
other  side  of  the  Serio,  is  a  chapel 
called  La  Basella,  formerly  containing 
a  masterpiece  by  ^wac^o,  the  sepulchral 
monument  of  Medea,  only  child  of 
Bartolommeo  Colleoni,  which  is  now  in 
the  chapel  of  the  family  at  Bergamo.J 
(See  p.  256.) 

5  kil.  Seriate  Stat.  SVom  this  station 
we  cross  the  plain  between  the  last 
declivities  of  the  Alps  and  the  small 
detached  range  of  hills  of  Monticelli 
on  rt. ;  similar  to  that  of  Mont'  Orfano 
between  Camo  and  Bergamo,  and 
formed  of  the  same  conglomerate 
(p.  169) :  there  are  some  picturesque- 
ruins  on  its  E.  extremity. 

7i  kil.  Gorlago  Stat,  not  far  from 
the  Cherio  torrent,  descending  from  the 
Val  CavalUna,  A  road  strikes  off  here 
on  the  1.  up  this  valley  to  Lovere^  at  the 
N.  extremity  of  the  like  of  Iseo,  passing 
by  the  smaller  ones  of  JEndine  or  S^i* 
nonef  and  Qajcmo. 


XOHtiABDt. 


lioute  2?. — Palazzucio — Brescia, 


261 


[The  Val  OavaUina  is  extremely 
beautiful;  covered  with  villages,  one 
of  which  is  La  Torre,  the  chief  town  in 
the  valley,  from,  which  pubUc  convey- 
ances start  twice  a  day  for  the  station 
at  Q-orlago  ;  another  is  Trescorre,  cele- 
brated for  its  hot-baths,  in  the  Piazza 
of  which  is  a  marble  group  of  Hygeia 
and  an  invalid,  allegorical  to  the  bene- 
fits derived  from  its  mineral  springs. 
The  hill  near  Qorlago,  on  which  stands 
the  Oasa  Carnuzzi,  commands  a  mag- 
nificent view  over  the  Alps  and  plains 
of  liombardy.  The  distance  firom  Tres- 
corpe  to  Lovere  is  about  15  m.,  and 
will  require  4J  hrs.  for  the  pedestrian.] 

6  kil.  Qrumello  Stat  From  here  the 
best  road  to  the  lake  Iseo  branches  off  to 
Samico  at  its  S.  extremity,  which  is  6 
m.  distant.  An  omnibus  every  day  at 
9  A.M.,  in  correspondence  with  the 
steamer  for  Lovere.  From  Glrumello  the 
rly.  runs  in  a  more  S.  direction,  crossing 
the  rich  plain  of  the  OgUo.  Before 
reaching  the  station  at  Falazzuolo  the 
line  crosses  the  latter  river  on  a  fine 
high  bridge  and  viaduct,  from  which 
the  view  of  the  town  at  some  distance 
on  the  rt.,  -with  the  river  flowing  at  the 
bottom  of  the  valley  far  below,  and  of 
the  high  tower,  which  forms  so 
conspicuous  an  object,  is  very  fine. 

4  kil.  Falazzuolo  (Stat).  The  town 
stands  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  which 
runs  in  a  depression  belowthe  surround- 
ing country,  and  from  its  situation  was 
an  important  miUtary  position  in  the 
wars  01  the  Brescians  and  Bergamaschi; 
on  both  sides  are  considerable  mediseval 
remains ;  on  the  W.  an  old  black  castle, 
now  built  into  a  church,  and  on  the 
B.  an  extensive  fortress,  upon  which 
has  been  erected  a  very  high  modem 
bell-tower,  surmounted  by  a  statue  of 
St.  George,  from  which  the  view  in- 
cludes Milan,  Oremena,  &c.  Beyond 
Palazzuolo  we  re-enter  on  the  great 
plain  extending  to  Brescia,  the  road 
running  at  the  base  of  the  insulated 
ridge  of  hills  of  Cologne  and  Mowt' 
orfano^  on  the  1.,  at  the  S.E.  extremity 
oi  which  lies 

8  kil.  Coccofflio  (Stat).  The  moun- 
tain above  it,  detached  like  an  island 


in  the  plain  {Monte  Orfano)^  on  which 
there  is  a  church,  and  a  convent  higher 
up),  commands  a  noble  view.  The  tra- 
veller who  can  spare  a  couple  of 
hours  will  be  well  repaid  for  walking 
up  to  its  summit  by  the  splendid 
panorama  discovered  from  it. 

SovatOi  in  the  plain  on  1.,  the  birth- 
place of  the  painters  il  Moretto  and 
Richino, 

8  kil.  Ospedaletto.  (Stat) 

11  kil.  Bbescia  (Stat.)  :  outside 
the  Porta  San  Nazzaro,  on  the  S.W. 
side  of  the  town.  (Inns:  Albffl*go 
d' Italia;  cuisine,  wine,  attendance, 
good ;  clean  j  w.c. ;  charges  moderate 
—C.B,N,,  Mayy  1864;  "decidedly 
good,Oc^.  1865" — A,R. ; — ilGambarOf 
resorted  to  by  ItaUan  famiUes.  This 
is  a  fine  and  flourishing  city,  now  con- 
taining 40,000  Inhab.,  and  appearing 
very  prosperous.  "  Brescia  Varmata  " 
has  been  anciently  celebrated  equally 
for  the  strength  of  her  fortifications, 
the  valour  of  her  inhabitants,  and  the 
excellence  of  the  arms  and  weapons 
here  manufactured.  The  Brescians  have 
not  degenerated  from  their  ancestors 
in  bravery ;  but  the  fortifications  are 
dismantled  and  the  manufacture  of  fire- 
arms in  the  adjacent  alpine  valleys 
has  almost  ceased. — Brescia  has  5  gates : 
1,  Porta  di  S.  Q-iovanni,  leading  to  Milan 
— 2,  San  Nazzaro,  to  the  Railway- 
station  and  Crema  —  3,  San  Ales- 
sandro,  to  Cremona— 4,  Torlunga,  to 
Verona  and  Mantua — 6,  Porta  Pile,  to 
Yal  Trompia  and  the  other  mountain 
valleys.  — Brescia  was  anciently  con- 
sidered as  one  of  the  most  opulent 
cities  of  Lombardy,  second  only  to 
Milan.  But  the  capture  of  the  city  by 
G-aston  de  Foix,  the  "gentil  Due  de 
Nemours,"  the  nephew  of  Louis  XII. 
(1512),  inflicted  a  blow  upon  its  pros- 
perity from  which  it  never  recovered. 
When  in  pursuance  of  the  League  of 
Cambrai  the  French  overran  the  Ye- 
netian  states,  Brescia  fell  like  the  rest 
of  the  Yenetian  possessions,  but  was 
recovered  by  the  vigour  of  the  Count 
Luigi  Avogadro.  Tie  inhabitants  de- 
tested the  French,  and  the  standard  of 
St.  Mark  being  hoisted  the  whole  dis- 


l! 


iiyHibidii 


tiOMBARDY.       Eoute  27. — BresGui'-^Histmcal  Anecdotes, 


263 


trict  was  in  a  state  of  insurrection. 
The  castle,  however,  was  still  held  by 
the  French,  and  Gaston  de  Foix  marched 
against  Brescia  with  an  army  of  12,000 
men,  the  flower,  says  the  *  Loyal  Ser- 
Titenr,'  of  French  chivalry.  Amongst 
them  was  the  "  ChevaUer  sans  peur  et 
sans  reproche,"  the  celebrated  Bayard, 
who,  in  the  attack  of  the  breach  by 
which  the  French  entered,  received  a 
wound  which  he  thought  to  be  mortal. 
The  French  poured  in,  and  the  city 
was  taken  by  storm ;  the  Venetian 
troops  made  a  desperate  but  ineffec- 
tual resistance  in  the  "  Piazza  del  Bro- 
letto  "  to  which  they  retreated,  and  the 
inhabitants  emulated  the  soldiers  in 
valour.  The  city  was  given  up  to  pil- 
lage, and  the  French,  the  "flower  of 
chivahy,"  under  the  guidance  of  the 
"  gentil"  Graston  de  Foix,  truly  termed 
by  Sismondi  the  most  ferocious  of  the 
chieftains  who  ever  commanded  an 
army,  indulged  during  seven  days  in 
pilh^e,  lust,  and  slaughter.  The  French 
boasted  that  46,000  of  the  inhab. 
perished. 

The  spirit  of  the  warfare  may  be 
illustrated  by  two  celebrated  passages 
in  the  history  of  the  siege  of  Brescia, 
— the  escape  of  Tartaglia  and  {he  gene- 
rosity of  Bayard,  Amongst  the  crowds 
who  vaLaly  sought  refuge  in  the  churches 
was  a  poor  woman  of  the  lowest  class 
with  a  child  in  her  arms.  The  French 
chivalry  cut  at  mother  and  child,  and 
the  boy  received  in  the  arms  of  his 
mother  five  sabre  wounds;  his  skuU 
was  fractured  and  his  upper  lip  spHt. 
In  spite  of  this  treatment  he  lived,  yet 
the  wound  in  his  lip  was  so  severe 
that  he  never  fully  recovered  his  speech ; 
hence  he  was  called  Tartaglia^  or  the 
stutterer:  but  his  memory  has  been 
preserved,  not  by  the  injuries  which  he 
shared  with  so  many  others,  but  by  his 
talent  as  one  of  the  greatest  mathema- 
ticians  of  the  16th  century. 

"With  respect  to  Bayard,  he  was 
placed  by  2  archers  upon  a  door  torn 
from  its  hinges,  and  carried  to  the  best- 
looking  house  at  hand,  beUeved  to  be 
that  of  the  Cigola  family  in  the  Giar- 
dini   Publici,    formerly    the    Mercato  I 


Vecchio.  Its  owner  was  "  a  rich  gentle- 
man who  had  fled  to  a  monastery ;  but 
his  wife  and  2  fair  daughters  remained 
at  home,  in  the  Lord's  keeping,  and 
were  hid  in  a  hayloft  under  the  hay." 
The  mother,  when  she  heard  the  knock- 
ing at  the  wicket,  opened  it,  "  as  await- 
ing the  mercy  of  God  with  constancy;" 
and  Bayard,  notwithstanding  his  own 
great  pain,  observing  her  piteous  agony, 
placed  sentinels  at  the  gate,  and  ordered 
them  to  prohibit  aU  entrance,  well 
knowing  that  his  name  was  a  defence. 
He  then  assured  the  noble  lady  of  pro- 
tection, inquired  into  her  condition,  and, 
despatching  some  archers  to  her  hus- 
band's relief,  received  him  courteously, 
and  intreated  him  to  beUeve  that  he 
lodged  none  other  than  a  friend.  His 
wound  confined  him  for  6  weeks,  nor  was 
it  closed  when  he  remounted  his  horse 
and  rejoined  the  army.  Before  his  de- 
parture, the  lady  of  the  house,  still  con- 
sidering herself  and  her  family  as  pri- 
soners, and  her  mansion  and  whole 
property  as  the  lawful  prize  of  her 
guest,  yet  perceiving  his  gentleness  of 
demeanour,  thought  to  prevail  upon 
him  to  compoimd  for  a  moderate  ran- 
som, and  having  placed  2500  ducats  in 
a  casket,  she  besought  his  acceptance  of 
it  on  her  knees.  Bayard  raised  her  at 
the  moment,  seated  her  beside  himself, 
and  inquired  the  sum.  He  then  assured 
her  that  if  she  had  presented  him  with 
100,000  crowns,  they  would  not  gratify 
hinn  so  much  as  the  good  cheer  which 
he  had  tasted  under  her  roof ;  at  first 
he  refused  to  take  them,  but  upon  her 
earnestly  pressing  him,  and  seeing 
"  that  she  made  the  present  with  her 
whole  heart,"  he  requested  permission 
to  bid  adieu  to  her  daughters.  "  The 
damsels,"  says  the  *  Loyal  Serviteur, 
"  were  exceedingly  fair,  virtuous,  and 
well-trained,  and  had  greatly  solaced 
the  good  knight  during  his  illness  by 
their  choice  singing,  and  playing  on  the 
lute  and  virginals,  and  their  mucli- 
cimning  needlework.  When  they  en- 
tered the  chamber,  they  thanked  him 
with  deep  gratitude  as  the  guardian  of 
their  honour;  and  the  good  knight, 
almost  weeping  at  their  gentleness  and 


264: 


Boute  27. — Brescia — History. 


Sect.  in. 


humility,    answered: — *!Fair  maidens, 
you  are  doing  that  wliich  it  is  rather 
my  part  to  do,  to  thank  you  for  the 
good  company  which  you  have  afforded 
me,  and  for  whicli  I  am  greatly  hound 
and  obUged  to  you.    You  know  that 
we  knight-adventurers  are  ill  provided 
with  goodly  toys  for  ladies*  eyes,  and 
for  my  part  I  am  sorely  grieved  not  to 
be  better  furnished,  in  order  that  I 
might  offor  you  some  such  as  is  my 
duty.    But  your  lady  mother  here  has 
given  me  2500  ducats,  which  Ue  on  that 
table,  and  I  present  each  of  you  with 
1000  in  aid  of  yoiu*  marriage  portions ; 
for  my  recompence  I  ask  no  more  than 
that  you  will  be  pleased  to  pray  Grod 
for  my  welfiare.'      So  he  put  the  ducats 
into  their  aprons,  whether  they  would 
or  no :  then  turning  to  the  lady  of  the 
house,  he  said,  'These  remaining  500 
ducats  I  take,  madam,  to  my  own  use ; 
and  I  request  you  to  distribute  them 
among  the  poor  nuns  who  have  been 
piUaged,  and  with  whose  necessities  no 
one  can  be  better  acquainted  than  your- 
self: and  herewith  I  take  my  leave!' 
After  having  dined,  as  he  quitted  liis 
chamber  to  take  horse,  the  two  fair 
damsels  met  him,  each  bearing  a  little 
offering  which  she  had  worked  during 
his  illness ;  one  consisted  of  2  rich  brace- 
lets woven  with   marvellous  deHcacy 
from  her  own  beauteous  hair,  and  fine 
gold  and  silver  threads ;  the  other  was 
a  crimson  satin  purse  embroidered  with 
much  subtilty.     Greatly  did  the  brave 
knight  thank  them  for  this  last  cour- 
tesy, saying  that  such  presents  from  so 
lovely  hands  were  worth  10,000  crowns ; 
then  gallantly  fastening  the  bracelets  on 
his  arm  and  the  purse  on  his  sleeve,  he 
vowed  to  wear  them  both,  for  the  ho- 
nour of  their  fair  donors,  while  his  life 
endured ;  and  so  he  mounted  and  rode 


on. 


"  The  booty,"  says  the  *  Loyal  Servi- 
teur,'  "was  rated  at  3,000,000  of  crowns. 
Certain  it  is  that  the  taking  of  Brescia 
was  the  ruin  of  the  French  cause  in 
Italy :  for  they  had  gained  so  much 
that  a  great  part  of  them  returning 
home  forsook  the  war,  and  were  much 
needed  afterwards  at  the  battle  of  Ea- 


u 


venna."  As  for  the  unfortunate  city, 
famine  and  pestilence  followed  th^ 
ravages  of  war,  and  the  void  of 
population  has  scarcely  yet  been  re- 
placed. 

The  inhabitants  of  Brescia^  and  espe- 
cially of  the  neighbouring  mountaia 
valleys,  have  always  been  remarkable 
for  their  military  spirit  and  bravery, 
which  were  again  manifested  during 
the  political  agitation  of  1849.  Upon 
the  renewal,  by  the  Fiedmontese  GK)- 
vemment,  of  the  hostiUties  which  had 
been  suspended  by  the  armistice  of  the 
preceding  year,  a  general  rising  of  the 
people  of  Brescia  took  place,  and 
putting  at  their  head  one  of  their  fel- 
low-citizens, Ck>unt  Martinengo,  they 
held  the  town  for  several  days  against 
the  Austrian  garrison  in  the  castle 
above  and  a  considerable  force  de- 
tached from  Verona  for  the  reduction, 
of  the  town.  The  cannon  of  the  be- 
siegers, aided  by  the  artillery  of  the 
fortress  pouring  shot  and  shell  from, 
the  heights,  at  length  compelled  them 
to  submit.  The  traveller  as  he  goes 
through  the  town  will  see  on  aU  sides 
traces  of  the  havoc  committed  by  the 
cannon  on  its  pubUc  edifices  and 
palaces. 

Brescia  is  pleasantly  situated,  and 
there  are  lovely  views  from  the  heights 
above  the  city.  It  is  not  far  from  the 
torrent  Mella,  the  ancient  Mela,  noticed 
in  the  verses  of  Catullus. 

"  Brixia,  Cycneas  supposita  speculn, 
Flavtts  quam  molli  percorrit  flumine  Mela, 
Brixia  Veronaa  mater  amata  mese.*' 

The  Mela  here  mentioned  is  sup- 
posed to  be  the  river  of  which  Virgil 
speaks : — 

"tonsis  In  vallibns  ilium 

Fastores,    et   curva  legunt   prope   flumina 
Melln." 

Bnxia  became  a  Boman  colony,  but 
we  are  not  informed  at  what  period 
that  event  took  place.  It  was  also  a 
mxmicipium,  as  ancient  inscriptions 
attest.  Strabo  speaks  of  it  as  inferior 
in  size  to  Mediolanum  and  Verona. 

The  antiquities  of  Brescia  were  in- 
vestigated in  the  I7th  centurj'  by  Itossi, 


liOMBARDY.        JRoute  27. — Brescia — Roman  Remains, 


265 


-who  describes  them  in  his  Memorie 
SreseianBy  but  who  trusted  more  to  his 
fancy  than  to  his  observation.  A  tall 
Corinthian  column  was  then  protrud- 
ing through  the  soil,  and  Hossi  in  his 
treatise  gave  the  drawing  of  the  whole 
temple  to  which  it  had  belonged.  The 
column  escaped  demolition,  but  no  one 
paid  much  attention  to  it  except  GHro- 
la/mo  loliy  who  from  a  child  was  accus- 
tomed to  wonder  at  the  rehc;  and, 
mainly  by  his  persuasion  and  exertions, 
the  municipal  authorities  were  per- 
suaded to  institute  an  excavation ;  the 
resTilt  was  the  discovery  of  the  entire 
portico,  and  of  much  of  the  adjoining 
structure.  The  columns,  with  the 
exception  of  the  one  which  so  long 
declared  the  existence  of  the  rest,  are 
broken  at  various  heights,  but  the  por- 
tions remaining  are  very  perfect,  and 
so  are  the  stairs  and  the  basement, 
which  are  entirely  in  their  original 
state.  The  latter  is  composed  of 
upright  blocks  of  marble,  one  block 
composing  its  whole  height.  The 
.masoniT  indeed  throughout  is  magni- 
ficent. The  columns  are  elegant,  both 
in  proportion  and  execution,  and  good 
workmanship  is  visible  in  the  sharply- 
cut  capitals  and  mouldings  which  He 
aroxmd.  Where  the  outer  casing  is 
removed  you  may  observe  the  bands 
of  brick  binding  the  structiure.  The 
architecture  has  many  peculiarities, 
and,  like  almost  every  Roman  building 
of  the  same  period,  shows  that  the  archi- 
tects considered  themselves  as  by  no 
means  bound  by  such  rules  as  those 
which  Vitruvius  has  laid  down.  The 
building  is  called  a  temple,  and  is 
supposed  from  some  fragments  of 
inscriptions  to  have  been  erected  or 
restored  by  Vespasian  in  the  year  72  of 
our  era,  and  dedicated  to  Hercules:  but 
its  form  seems  to  indicate  that  it  was  ia- 
tended  for  some  other  purpose,  perhaps 
a  court  of  justice ;  and  it  is  not  even 
certain  whether  the  mutilated  inscrip- 
tion upon  which  the  conjecture  is 
founded  belonged  to  the  building.  Be 
this  as  it  may,  it  is  raised  upon  the 
foimdations  of  an  older  structure,  of 
which  many  vestiges  may  be  seen  in 


the  passages  and  vaults  included  in 
the  basement  story.  They  have  tes- 
sellated pavements,  and  the  walls  are 
of  the  "  opus  reticiilatum,"  over  wliich 
a  fine  and  hard  compact  and  polished 
stucco  has  been  laid.  Large  portions 
of  this  remain  quite  perfect  j  it  was 
painted  in  compartments  as  at  Pom- 
peii, and  the  colours  are  very  fresh. 
When  these  passages  were  opened,  the 
excavators  discovered  a  heap  of  bronzes, 
some  nearly  whole,  others  broken,  but 
none  injured  except  by  fracture,  and 
which  had  evidently  been  deposited 
there  all  at  one  time — ^how  or  when,  it 
is  difficult  to  conjecture ;  but  the  most 
reasonable  supposition  is,  that,  when 
the  emblems  of  paganism  were  removed 
by  law  from  the  temples,  these  were 
hidden  by  the  adherents  of  idolatry, 
and  forgotten  in  the  dark  vaults  in 
which  they  were  concealed. 

The  Museum  of  Antiquities  (Museo 
Patrio)  has  been  formed  within  the 
walls  of  this  ancient  building,  to  pre- 
serve these  and  other  curiosities.  The 
finest  work  in  it  is  the  bronze  winged 
statue  discovered  in  1826,  which,  from 
its  attitude,  has  been  supposed  to  be 
either  a  Fame  or  a  Yictory.  The  shield 
under  the  left  hand  is  a  restoration ; 
so  also  is  the  helmet  upon  which  the 
left  foot  rests.  The  figure  is  rather 
larger  than  life.  The  head  is  encircled 
by  a  garland  of  laurel-leaves,  inlaid  with 
silver.  The  drapery  and  wings  are  exe- 
cuted with  the  greatest  delicacy.  When 
discovered  the  wings  were  found  lying 
at  the  feet  of.  the  statue,  evidently 
having  been  taken  off  for  the  purpose  of 
better  stowing  the  figure  in  its  place  of 
concealment.  The  head,  the  drapery, 
the  elegance  of  the  limbs,  are  as  fine 
as  can  be  conceived.  A  copy  was 
cast  in  bronze  by  the  desire  of  the 
Emperor  of  Austria ;  it  is  erected  at 
Oulm :  there  is  another  in  the  Louvre 
at  Paris.  Found  together  with  the 
Victory,  and  now  in  the  same  room, 
are  six  heads,  with  traces  of  gilding  : 
one  of  them  is  supposed  to  represent 
the  Empress  Faustina.  Also  a  small 
statue,  mlly  gilt,  representing  a  car 


206 


EoiUe  21 , — Brescia —  Cathedral. 


Sect.  III. 


tive  Barbarian.    The  workmanship  is 
inferior  to  that  of  the  Victory. 

Portions  of  harness,  with  very  fine 
figures  in  relief. 

A  female  hand  and  arm,  larger  than 
life  J  very  fine. 

Many  fragments  of  mouldings  and 
ornaments,  some  gilt,  all  of  great  ele- 
gance ;  and  probably  decorations  of 
the  monument  of  which  the  Victory 
formed  a  part. 

The  Boman  inscriptions  in  the 
musemn  are  numerous.  The  citizens 
of  Brescia  began  to  preserve  these 
remains  at  an  early  period;  earlier 
indeed  than  any  other  city  in  Eu- 
rope. By  a  special  ordinance,  passed 
in  1480,  they  required  that  all  who, 
in  digging  or  otherwise,  might  dis- 
cover ancient  inscriptions,  should 
preserre  them,  and  fix  them  on  the 
walls  of  their  houses,  or  place  them 
where  they  could  be  the  objects  of 
study.  The  inscriptions  thus  brought 
together  would  form  a  large  and  cu- 
rious volume :  many  are  early  Chris- 
tian; one  is  to  the  memory  of  a 
certain  Cecilia,  who  is  singularly  de- 
scribed as  "Mater  Synagogse  Brixia- 
norum."  There  are  good  specimens  of 
Venetian  glass  and  Majolica  ware,  and 
several  objects  of  cinquecento  work, 
presented  by  liberal  citizens  of  the 
town.  The  museum  is  open  daily  from 
11  till  3. 

There  are  several  architectural  frag- 
ments ;  some  exhibit  rich  varieties  of 
the  composite.  An  Ionic  capital  with 
fine  angular  volutes  supports  a  good 
Etruscan  vase  from  Vulci,  represent- 
ing Hercules  killing  the  Nemeah  lion 
in  the  presence  of  Minerva.  Many 
other  objects  of  interest  are  dispersed 
over  the  museum  : — votive  altars  and 
cippi ;  a  portion  of  a  beautiful  mo- 
saic pavement;  specimens  of  pottery 
and  articles  of  bronze.  One  apartment 
is  devoted  to  mediseval  antiquities : 
those  of  the  Lombard  era  are  inter- 
esting.— Several  columns  removed  from 
the  partly  ruined  ch.  of  Santa  Giulia; 
fragments  covered  with  runic  knots, 
some  apparently  slabs  and  door-jambs, 
one  the  base  of  a  cross ;   a  runic  cross 


bisecting  an  epitaph  in  Boman  charac- 
ters; the  monument  of  a  Count  of 
Fitigliano. 

Near  these  ruins  are'the  supposed  re- 
mains of  a  theatre.  Not  much  is  seen, 
as  they  are  concealed  by  a  private 
dwelling-house.  Under  another  house, 
near  the  museum,  in  a  kind  of  cellar, 
are  some  Corinthian  columns,  buried  up 
to  their  capitals,  and  supporting  archi- 
traves sculptured  with  foliage.  These 
are  conjectured  to  be  parts  of  the 
Forum.  Many  other  vestiges  are  found 
in  other  parts  of  the  city.  The  Monte 
di  Pietd  contains  several  inscriptions 
and  fragments  built  into  the  walls ;  and 
the  columns  and  pavements  dug  up  in 
various  parts  of  the  town  attest  its 
ancient  magnificence.  A  folio  volume 
of  plates  (62)  of  the  most  remarkable 
objects  has  been  published  and  may 
now  be  had  at  the  Museo ;  a  second 
volume  contains  the  inscriptions, 
which  have  been  illustrated  by  Cav. 
Labus. 

Brescia  has  two  cathedrals.  The 
Duomo  VecchiOf  also  called  theMotonda^ 
from  its  form,  was  built,  according  to 
some  historians,  between  the  years  662 
and  671,  by  Marquard  and  Frodoard, 
two  Lombard  dukes,  father  and  son, 
with  the  assistance  of  Grimoald  King 
of  the  Lombards.  Others  attribute  it 
to  a  Count  Kaymond,  who  governed 
Brescia  under  Charlemagne  in  774. 
The  walls  are  of  stone ;  the  circuit  on 
the  outside  is  divided  by  pilasters  into 
24  portions,  surmounted  by  a  brick 
cornice.  Within  there  is  a  circular 
colonnade  of  8  piers,  bearing  round 
arches,  which  support  the  dome,  in 
conjimction  with  the  outer  circle  of 
walls.  The  interior  has  been  much 
altered";  the  presbytery  and  choir  were 
added  in  the  13th  and  15th  centuries, 
and  the  lateral  chapels  as  late  as  1571. 
Some  curious  mediseval  tombs  are  still 
left. — High  up  on  the  wall,  over  the 
2nd  chapel  on  rt.,  is  the  moniunent  of 
Lambertus  de  Bononia,  bishop  of  this 
see  in  1349.  A  slabtomb  covers  the  re- 
mains of  Nicolo  Durando,  Archdeacon 
of  Brescia  in  1541 ;  the  effigies,  in  low 
relief,  are  expressive.   The  sarcophagus 


liOMBARDY.      Eoute  27. — Brescia — Cathedrals—Paintings.  267 


of  Bishop  Maggi  is  a  good  specimen 
of  the  style  of  the  revival ;  by  its  side 
is  the  tomb  of  Cardinal  Morosini,  by 
Antonio  Carra,  a  Brescian  artist.  There 
is  a  remarkable  echo  in  this  church. 

The  best  paintings  in  this  cathedral 
are :    1st  chapel  on  rt.,  JPietro  JRosa, 
St.   Martin  dividing  his  Cloak  with 
the  Beggar. — JBemardino  Gandini,  the 
G-uardian  Angel.   2nd  chapel  on  rt.,  of 
the  Sacrament,  II  Moretto,  Abraham 
and  Melchisedec ;   the  Last   Supper ; 
St.  Luke  and  St.  Mark ;  EHjah  asleep  j 
and  Abraham  and  Isaac. — Romanino, 
the  descent  of  the  Manna,  much  injured. 
Over  the  high  altar  is  a  fine  Assumption, 
by  II  Moretto ;  the  pictures  of  the  Na- 
tivity of  the  Virgin  and  of  the  Visitation 
in  the  same  chapel  are  by  Romanino, 
Under  glass  is    a  Flagellation,  attri- 
buted to  Morone.     A  good  Oiorgione 
has  been  lately  given  by  Count  Ave- 
roldij    it    represents   the    Adoration 
of  the  Magi,   and  is   hung    on  one 
of  the  pilasters  of  the  Botonda.    In 
the    chapel   of  the  Santissimi    Croci 
are  two  large  paintings  by  Cossali  and 
Gcmdini :  the  first  represents  the  mira- 
culous Apparition  of  the  Cross  to  Oon- 
stantine ;   the  second  "  Duke  Namo " 
delivering  the  ancient  crosses,  still  pre- 
served as  relics'  in  this  chapel,  to  the 
magistrates  of  Brescia.    The  origin  of 
these  crosses  is  quite  uncertain,  inas- 
much as  the  existence  of  Duke  Namo 
rests  only  upon  the  authority  of  Ariosto 
and  the  romancers  of  the  Dozepeers. 
Yet  the  curious  casket  in  which  they 
are    enclosed    bears    unquestionable 
marks  of  respectable  Byzantine  anti- 
quity.    It  represents  Constantine  and 
Helena,   with  their  names  in   Greek 
letters.     The    crosses    are  known   to 
have  been  in  the    possession  of  the 
citizens,  as  far  back  as  1295.     It  is 
supposed    by    some    authprities    that 
they  were  brought  from  the  East  by 
Bishop  Albert,  who,  between  1221  and 
1226,  was  successively  leader  of  the 
Brescian  crusaders    at    the    siege    of 
Damietta,  patriarch  of  Antioch,  and 
apostolic  legate  in  Syria.     One  of  the 
crosses,  indeed,  is   thought   to   have 
been  the  staff  of  his  standard,  but 


it  seems  much  too  small  for  any 
such  purpose.  In  this  chapel  are  also 
preserved  the  pastoral  stafl:'  of  St.  Phi- 
lasterius,  Bishop  of  Brescia  in  384,  and 
several  other  reUcs.  The  statues  of 
Faith  and  Charity  near  the  pulpit  are 
by  Alessandro  Vittoria.  Under  the 
cathedral  is  a  subterranean  ch.  or  crypt, 
entered  by  stairs  near  the  4th  pillar 
on  the  rt.,  sometimes  called  the  Basilica 
of  St.  Philasterius,  supported  by  42 
marble  columns  :  many  of  the  shafts  ap- 
pear to  be  ancient :  the  capitals,  which 
are  Lombard,  indicate  an  earher  style 
than  the  superincumbent  structure. 
There  are  some  very  ancient  frescoes  on 
the  walls — one,  on  that  of  the  apse, 
of  Our  Saviour  with  a  bishop  and 
St.  Helena,  has  been  supposed  to  date 
from  the  9th  centy. ;  the  other,  in  the 
small  transept,  of  St.  Michael  and  3 
bishops,  from  the  13th. 

The  New  Cathedral,  or  Duomo  Nimvo, 
was  begun  in  1604,  from  the  designs  of 
Oiovanni  BatUsta  Lantana,  on  the  site 
of  the  baptistery  of  S.  Fietro  di  Dom., 
bmlt  by  Queen  Theodolinda,  but  the 
vault  of  the  cupola  was  only  closed 
in  1825.  The  dome,  from  the  design 
of  B.  Mazzoli,  a  Boman  architect,  is 
said  to  be  the  third  as  to  size  in  Italy ; 
St.  Peter's  being  the  first,  and  that  of 
the  Cathedral  at  Florence  the  second. 
The  architecture  is  fine.  The  Cathe- 
dral has  some  pictures  by  second-rate 
artists : — 4th  chapel  on  1.,  PaJma  Qio- 
varie,  the  Virgin,  with  San  Carlo  Borro- 
meo  and  San  Francesco ;  Bishop  Marin 
Georgi,  the  donor,  is  introduced  as  a 
devotee.  In  the  chapel  (3rd  on  rt.)  is 
the  tomb  or  urn  of  S.  Apollonius  and 
S.  Philasterius,  bishops  of  Brescia,  orna- 
mented with  bas-reUefs  in  three  com- 
partments, and  in  a  good  style  of  the 
15th  centy.  The  picture  of  the  Assump- 
tion over  the  high  altar  is  by  Zoboli ; 
the  statues  of  SS.  Philasterius  and  Gau- 
dentius,  the  patron  saints  of  the  city,  by 
CaligaH;  the  bust  of  Cardinal  Quirini 
by  Pincellotti.  The  archives  of  the 
Canons  are  rich  in  ancient  manuscripts. 
In  the  centre  of  the  piazza,  before  the 
Duomo,  is  a  fountain  with  an  allegorical 


268 


Route  27. — Brescia — Churches — Paintings,        Sect.  III. 


statue  of  the   city,  an  armed   female 
(Brescia  armata),  bj  Caligari. 

Ch.  of  Sta.  Afra,  erected  upon 
the  site  of  a  temple  of  Saturn.  The 
present  church  dates  from  1580,  and 
is  rich  in  frescoes  and  paintings. 
The  latter  were  kept  together  at  the 
period  of  the  suppression  of  the  col- 
legiate establishment  by  the  exertions 
of  Canon  Martinengo. — The  frescoes 
of  the  roof  are  by  Bagnadore  and 
Rossi.  —  The  great  ornament  of  the 
church  is,  the  painting  of  the  Woman 
taken  in  Adultery,  by  Titian^  near 
the  4th  altar  on  1.  The  colouring 
is  excellent.  Whether  this  picture 
is  entirely  by  the  Titian  has  been 
the  subject  of  considerable  contro- 
versy; some  have  attributed  it  to 
his  son  Orazio :  the  prevailing  opinion, 
however,  now  is,  that  it  is  by  the 
father,  and  one  of  his  best  works. 
There  are  two  or  three  repetitions  of 
it  in  England. — Paolo  Veronese  :  2nd 
altar  on  1.,  the  Martyrdom  of  Sta.  Afra, 
over  the  altar,  under  which  is  the 
body  of  the  saint,  one  of  the  finest 
pictures  of  the  master.  The  severed 
heads  of  SS.  Faustinus  and  Jovitus  lie 
at  the  foot  of  the  scaffold ;  that  in  front 
is  the  portrait  of  Paul  Veronese  him- 
self, and  is  very  fine.  The  picture  has 
suffered  from  modem  restoration.  It 
bears  the  name  of  the  artist,  "  Paolo 
Caliari,  V.  ¥:' —Tintoretto  :  the  Trans- 
figuration, at  the  high  altar.  The  la- 
teral pictures  -of  SS.  Faustinus  and 
Jovianus  are  by  JPalma  Giovane;  the 
dead  Christ  by  Baroccio.  Faustinus 
and  Jovita,  who  so  repeatedly  appear 
in  the  Brescian  paintings,  were  brothers 
of  a  Patrician  fiimily,  who  preached 
Christianity  at  Brescia  whilst  the  bishop 
of  the  city  lay  concealed  during  the  per- 
secution. They  suffered  martyrdom, 
A.D.  121,  by  the  command  and  in  the 
presence  of  the  Emperor  Hadrian. 
The  Annunciation  by  G,  Rossi;  the 
Nativity  under  the  organ  by  Carlo 
Cagliari, — Bassano  (2ndchapel  on  rt.) : 
the  Baptism  of  Sta.  Afra :  the  rite  is 
administered  by  torchlight  by  St.  Apol- 
lonius,  and  Faustinus  and  Jovianus 
are  distributing  the  Eucharist. — CHulio  \ 


Cesare  Procaccini  (4th  chapel  on  rt.)  : 
the  Virgin,  San  Carlo  Borromeo,  and  St. 
Latkius. — Palma  Oiovane  (1st  chapel 
on  1.)  :  the  Martyrdom  of  St.  Felix  and 
his  Companions — injured  by  restora- 
tion. This  church  is  one  of  the  most 
ancient  in  the  city,  and  has  sustained 
innumerable  changes.  One  of  the  ad- 
joining cloisters,  in  the  style  of  San- 
sovino,  is  good :  another  is  in  an  earlier 
one.  The  crypt  is  curious  from  its 
antiquity. 

Ch,  of  St.  Agata^  supposed  to  have 
been  founded  by  Queen  Theodolinda. 
The  walls  and  roof  richly  painted 
by  Sorisene  and  Ghitti,  Amongst 
many  other  paintings  are : — Foppa  the 
younger,  the  Adoration  of  the  Magi* 
at  the  1st  altar  on  the  1. ;  and  over  the 
high  altar,  the  Martyrdom  of  S.  Agata^ 
by  Calisto  da  Lodi  (with  St.  Peter,  St. 
Paul,  Sta.  Barbara,  and  St.  Catherine 
below),  the  masterpiece  of  the  artist^ 
and  a  picture  of  great  beauty. 

Ch.   of  8.  AlessandrOf  an  ancient 
foundation,,  belonging  to  theorder  of  the 
Servites,  is  now  only  remarkable  for  a 
fine  painting  of  the  Annunciation  by 
JVa  Angelico  da  Mesole,  painted  in 
1482,  as  appears  from  the  books  of  the 
monastery,  in  which  it  is  stated  that 
the  painter  received  9  ducats  for  his 
labour,    and    11    for    the    gold-leaf 
employed  on  it.    The  predeUa  of  the 
Jjite  of  the  Virgin  in  5  compartments 
beneath  is  supposed  not  to  be  by  the 
same  master. 

Ch.  of  San  Bamaha,  erected  on  the 
site  of  a  temple  of  Hercules :  this  is 
the  tradition,  and  the  remains  found 
on  the  spot  confirm  it.  It  was  founded 
in  the  13th  centy.  by  Bishop  Maggi  for 
the  Friars  of  S.  Augustin.  It  is  now 
annexed  to  a  foundling  hospital.  Paint- 
ings in  3rd  chapel  on  1. :  Palma  Vecchio^ 
Sant'  Onophrius  the  Hermit. — Oiro' 
lamo  SavoldOf  the  Shepherds  at  the  Na- 
tivity; one  of  the  best  pictures  of  this 
little-known  artist.  The  picture  of  the 
Martyrdom  of  S.  Barnabas  at  the  high 
altar  is  by  G.  Panfilo. — In  an  upper 
apartment,  formerly  the  Library,  now  a 
printing-office,  are  some  good  specimens 


LoMBARDY.      Route  27. — Brescia — Churches — Paintings. 


269 


of  the  elder  Foppa,  in  particular  a  Last 
Supper. 

Ch,  of  S,  Clemente  contains  five 
paintings  hy  Moretto;  the  best,  perhaps 
only  second  to  his  Coronation  of  the 
Virgin  at  S.  Nazaro,  is  the  group  of 
female  saints  known  as  the  Five  Vir- 
gins, in  a  chapel  on  rt. ;  the  Assump- 
tion of  the  Virgin,  with  St.  Clement  and 
other  saints,  over  the  high  altar  j  the 
Offering  of  Melchisedeck,  and  St.  Je- 
rome, at  altars  on  the  1.  The  painter  is 
buried  in  this  church  ;  the  bust  over 
his  tomb  is  by  San  CHorgio.  There  is 
a  fine  Nati^ty  (dated  1524)  by  Callisto 
da  JLodi  in  the  Sacristy. 

Ch.  of  II  S.  Corpo  di  CrUto.— This 
church  contains  a  very  fine  monument 
of  the  16th  century,  of  which  the 
principal  ornaments  are  Scriptural  his- 
tories. It  is  supposed  to  contain  the 
remains  of  Marcantonio  Martinengo,  a 
very  able  commander  in  the  Venetian 
service,  slain  in  a  skirmish  with  the 
Spaniards,  1526. 

Ch.  of  San  DomenicOi  a  fine  build- 
ing, of  a  single  nave  and  riclily  de- 
corat-ed  with  frescoes. — They  are  by 
various  hands,  Sandriniy  J^aminghino^ 
and  Oiugno,  —  Romanino  (over  the 
high  altar) :  the  Coronation  of  the 
Vii^in  with  many  Saints  introduced : 
the  colouring  is  excellent.  —  Ohitii : 
the  Resurrection.  —  Antonio  Gandini 
(2nd  chapel  on  L) :  the  Crucifixion,  with 
the  three  Maries :  and  in  the  next  cha- 
pel, on  the  side  wall,  Pahna  GHovane, 
two  large  pieces  j  in  one  are  introduced 
portraits  of  Pope  PiusV.,  Philip  II.  of 
Spain,  and  the  Doge  Veniero,  returning 
thanks  for  the  victory  gained  by  their 
combined  fleets  over  the  Ottomans  at 
Curzola  in  1571 ;  the  other  is  alle- 
gorical, and  represents  the  deUver- 
ance  of  souls  from  purgatory  by  the 
virtue  of  papal  indulgences.  The  altar- 
piece  is  by  Gandini. 

Ch.  of  S.  Eufemia  has  over  its  high 
altar  a  good  painting  by  II  Moretto 
of  the  Virgin  and  Cliild  with  SS.  Eufe- 
mia,  Justina,  and  John  the  Baptist. 

Ch.  of  San  Faustino  Maggiore,  one 
of  the  oldest  monasteries  of  Brescia. 
The  bodies  of  St.  Faustinus  and  St.  Jo- 


vita  were  translated  here  in  848.  Tliree 
years  after,  some  monks  of  the  then 
recent  order  of  S.  Benedict  were  placed 
in  it,  and  they  continued  in  possession 
of  the  monastery  till  its  suppression 
by  the  French  :  the  present  building  is 
of  the  early  part  of  the  17th  century, 
after  the  designs  of  Calegari.  The 
walls  and  roof  are  covered  with  frescoes. 
The  tomb  of  the  Patron  Saints,  behind 
the  high  altar,  by  Carta,  is  fine  of  its 
kind,  being  of  black  and  white  marble 
in  the  heavy  style  of  the  17th  cen- 
tury. Amongst  other  pictures  is  an 
excellent  Nativity,  over  the  2nd  altar  on 
rt.,  by  Gamhara  ;  one  of  the  largest  and 
best  of  his  oil  paintings. — Romanino^ 
the  Resurrection,  with  Saints,  in  the  next 
chapel. — Gandiniy  St.  Honorius.  The 
angels  in  the  1st  chapel  on  the  rt.  are  by 
Monti  of  Ravenna.  In  the  cloisters  ad- 
joining is  a  vaulted  passage  with  a  good 
fresco  by  Gamhara  ;  and  in  the  conven- 
tual buildings,  now  used  as  a  college, 
a  very  curious  picture  by  Cossale,  re- 
presenting the  supposed  miracle  worked 
by  saints  Faustinus  and  Jovita  when 
Brescia  was  besieged  by  Nicolo  Pic- 
cinino,  on  which  occasion  they  were 
believed  to  hurl  back  the  cannon-balls 
of  the  enemy. 

San  Francesco,  founded  in  1254 ;  but 
only  a  small  portion  of  the  original  edi- 
fice remains,  the W.  front,  which  is  Lom- 
bard, with  a  good  rose  window,  and  the 
bell-tower.  Within  its  precincts  the 
Brescians  took  the  oath  of  fidelity  to  the 
republic  of  Venice,  March  17th,  1421. 
Paintings : — over  the  high  altar,  Moma- 
nino,  the  Virgin  and  Child,  surrounded 
by  St.  Francis,  St.  Anthony  of  Pa- 
dua, St.  Bonaventura,  and  St.  Louis. 
— Cossali,  the  Immaculate  Conception, 
in  the  4th  chapel  on  1. — Moretto, 
St.  Francis,  St.  Jerome,  and  St. 
Margaret,  dated  1530.  In  a  chapel 
near  this  are  some  fine  specimens 
of  intarsiatura  work,  representing 
subjects,  25  to  30  in  number,  from 
the  life  of  Christ,  executed  in  1553 
by  G.  B.  Virch. — Francesco  da  Prato 
di  Caravaggio,  the  Marriage  of  the 
Virgin,  dated  1547,  Ist  chapel  on 
1. :    great    beauty  of  expression    »* 


270 


EoiUe  27. — Brescia — Churches — Paintings,  Sect.  III. 


colouring.  The  works  of  this  painter 
are  exceedingly  rare.  —  In  the  2nd 
chapel  on  rt.  is  a  St.  Michael,  by  Q-an- 
diniy  and  a  fresco,  probaby  of  the 
14th  century. 

Ch.  of  San  CHovanni  JEvanffelista. 
This  is  the  primitive  church  of  Brescia, 
having  been  founded  in  the  4th  centy. 
by  St.  Graudentius ;  but  it  was  re- 
built in  the  16th.  It  contains  many  of 
II  Moreno's  productions  :  (3rd  chapel 
on  rt.)  the  Massacre  of  the  Innocents. 
The  Nativity  of  the  Virgin,  and  the 
Presentation  in  the  Temple,  in  the  last 
chapel  on  rt.,  are  by  Cossali.  Over  the 
high  altar  a  group,  in  oils,  of  the  Virgin 
and  Child, with  St.  John,  St.  Augustine, 
and  St.  Agnes,  and  in  tempera  SS. 
John  the  Evangelist,  the  Baptist,  and 
Zacharias,  the  Almighty  and  a  prophet 
above,  are  all  by  Moretto;  the  two 
prophets  on  the  side  doors  hjMaganza. 
— Giovanni  Bellini,  the  Tliree  Maries 
weeping  over  the  Body  of  the  Saviour 
(excellent),  in  the  chapel  of  the  Sacra- 
1^»^(4th  on  1.) :  in  the  same  chapel  are 
the  competing  frescoes  of  Moretto  and 
Komanino;  to  the  former  belong  (on 
the  rt.)  the  Fall  of  the  Manna,  Elijah, 
the  Last  Supper,  two  Evangelists,  and 
the  Prophets  on  the  roof;  to  Bomanino 
(on  the  1),  the  Resurrection  of  Lazarus, 
the  Magdalen  in  the  House  of  the  Pha- 
risee, the  Presentation  of  the  Holy  Sa- 
crament, two  Evangelists  and  Prophets 
on  the  roof;  another  by  Komanino  (1st 
chapel  on  1.),  the  Marriage  of  the  Vir- 
gin, is  considered  one  of  his  best  works. 
— Cossali,  the  Adoration  of  the  Scarlet 
"Woman  in  the  Apocalypse — a  striking 
composition,  over  the  door  of  the  ch. 
In  the  Baptistery  is  a  good  picture 
of  Saints  adoring  the  Trinity,  in  the 
style  of  Francia. 

Ch.  of  San  Ghmseppe.  Paintings  : — 
Bomanino,  the  three  Maries  round  the 
dead  body  of  the  Saviour  at  the  2nd 
altar  on  rt.,  the  Nativity  at  the  4th,  and 
St.  Catherine,  S.  Paul,  and  S.  Jerome  at 
the  8th. — Moretto,  the  Descent  of  the 
Holy  Ghost,  at  the  3rd.  On  rt.  St.  Fran- 
cis, the  Virgin,  and  a  portrait  of  the 
donor  of  the  painting,  at  the  6th. — 
Palma  Qiovane^  St.  Axithony  of  Padua, 


at  the  6th  (on  1.). — iMca  MombelU,  St. 
Joseph,  St.  Sebastian,  and  St.  Koch, 
in  the  1st  on  1. — Avogadro,  the  Mar- 
tyrdom of  SS.  Crispin  and  Crispinia- 
nus,  at  the  entrance  into  the  Sacristy. 
Lanzi  cites  this  picture  as  his  ch^- 
(Tceuvre. 

Ch.  of  S,  Maria  Calchera  has 
beneath  the  pulpit  a  painting  of  our 
Saviour  with  SS.  Jerome  and  Do- 
rothy by  il  Moretto ;  at  the  3rd 
altar  on  rt.  SS.  Apollonius,  Fausti- 
nus,  and  Jovita,  hy  Bomanino;  over  the 
high  altar  the  Visitation  by  CaUisto 
da  Lodi ;  and  in  the  Ist  chapel  on  L 
a  painting  of  Jesus  and  the  Magdalen 
by  il  Moretto, 

Ch.  of  Santa  Maria  delle  Orazie^ 
successively  tenanted  by  the  Umiliati, 
the    Hieronymites,  and    the    Jesuits. 
Curiously  ornamented  with  very  rich 
compartments  of  gilded  stucco    work, 
and  ample  frescoes  by  Antonio   Oan- 
dini,  FiammingMno,    Morone,    Bilati, 
Bossi,  and  Bama.     Other  paintings : — 
Pietro  i2o«a,~St.  Barbara  kneeling  before 
her  Father  in  Expectation  of  Death, 
scarcely  inferior  to  Titian  (in  Ist  chapel 
on  rt.). — Moretto,  the  Nativity,  over 
the  high  altar,  an  excellent  picture ; 
and  St.  Antony  of  Padua  at  the  4tli, 
ai]id  SS.  Koch,  Sebastian,  and  Martin 
at  the  7th  altar,  by  the  same. — Ferra- 
mola  (1st  chapel  on  L),  the  Virgin  and 
Child. — Gandini  sen.,  the  Purification, 
and  the  Nativity  by  C.  Procaccini,  in 
the  6th  cht^el  on  1.    There  is  a  good 
modem  painted  glass  window  over  the  - 
entrance.     Attached  to  the  ch.  are  a 
small  cloister  and  a  chapel,  both  hung 
round  with  votive  offerings  of  every  kind 
for  favours  received  from  the  Virgin. 

Ch.  of  Santa  Maria  dei  Miracoli, 
near  the  ch.  of  S.  Francesco,  a  small 
ch.,  remarkable  for  its  fine  sculptured 
Benaissance  fa9ade;  in  the  inside  is 
one  of  Moreno's  fine  works,  over  an 
altar  on  the  rt.,  St.  Nicholas  of  Bari  in 
adoration  before  the  Madonna ;  and  in 
the  choir  an  Assumption  of  the  Virgin, 
by  Morone. 

Ch.  of  SS.  Nazaro  e  Celso,  near 
the  gate  of  the  same  name,  at  the 


LoMBAUDY.      JR^ute  27. — Brescia — Churches — Paintings, 


271 


S.W.  extremity  of  the  city.  A  sup- 
pressed collegiate  establishment.  The 
church  was  rebuilt  in  1780 ;  and  as 
an  edifice  is  not  remarkable,  but  it 
is  very  rich  in  paintings.  The  pic- 
ture behind  the  high  altar,  by  Titian, 
consists  of  five  distinct  subjects,  but 
united  into  one  composition,  and  exe- 
cuted when  he  was  in  the  full  vigour 
of  his  powers.  —  The  Annunciation 
forms  the  subject  of  the  first  and  se- 
cond pictures  above. — ^The  central  one 
represents  the  Eesurrection ;  the  sub- 
ject being  spread  over  the  compartments 
on  either  side.  Amongst  the  figures  the 
painter  has  introduced,  in  the  lower 
compartment  on  the  left,  the  portrait 
of  AltobeUo  Averoldo,  by  whom  the  pic- 
ture was  presented  to  the  church,  toge- 
ther with  the  patron  saints,  St.  Nazaro 
and  St.  Celso,  in  armour ; — on  the  other 
side  is  St.  Sebastian,  a  magnificent 
figure,  and  in  the  distance  St.  Koch 
healed  by  the  Angel ;  the  introduction 
of  these  two  Saints  probably  showing 
that  the  painting  was  a  votive  offering 
aft^r  a  pestilence:  at  the  foot  of  the 
column  to  which  the  saint  is  bound  the 
painter  has  subscribed  his  name  and 
the  date  of  the  work — "  Ticianus  facie- 
bat,  MDXXII."  Another  very  fine 
painting  is  the  Coronation  of  the  Vir- 
gin, by  il  Moretto ;  it  is  in  the  2nd 
chapel  on  1.,  our  Lord  in  the  Clouds 
crowning  the  Virgin,  above,  with  St. 
Michael  the  Archangel,  St.  Joseph, 
St.  Nicholas,  and  St.  Francis,  below; 
the  whole  picture  is  beautifully  har- 
'  monious  in  hght  and  colour ;  the  head 
of  St.  Nicholas  is  perfectly  angelic. 
The  Redeemer  and  the  Angels,  bearing 
the  instruments  of  the  Passion,  with 
Moses  and  Elias,  allegorical  to  the 
Transfiguration,  in  the  3rd  chapel  on 
rt.,  is  also  by  Moretto.  The  other 
paintings  are — the  Nativity,  with  SS. 
.  Nazaro  and  Celso,  by  Moretto  (4th 
chapel  on  1.). — Gandini:  St.  Roch. — 
Foppa  the  younger:  Martyrdom  of 
the  Patron  Saints. — And,  near  the 
side  doors,  Momanino:  the  Adoration 
of  the  Magi.  In  one  of  the  side  chapels 
on  the.  1.  is  a  fine  sepulchral  effigy  of 
Altobello  Averoldo.  Li  the  sacristy  are 


paintings  by  Foppa  the  younger,  of 
the  Annunciation,  in  tempera ;  of  the 
Nativity  of  the  Virgin,  by  il  Moretto; 
and  a  Sta.  Barbara,  with  the  Donatorio, 
P.  Duca,  by  L.  Gambara. 

Ch.  of  San  Pietro  in  OUveto,  at 
the  N.E.  extremity  of  the  town,  be- 
yond the  fortress,  altered  and  partly 
rebuilt  by  Sansovino.  Successively 
possessed  by  the  Celestines,  by  the 
canons  regular  of  the  order  of  the 
Beato  Lorenzo  Giustiniani,  and  by 
the  Carmehtes,  it  was  afterwards  used 
as  a  chapel  of  the  ecclesiastical  semi- 
nary, but,  the  latter  having  been  con- 
verted into  a  barrack,  admission  is  now 
obtained  with  difficulty.  It  is  rich  in 
specimens  of  the  Brescian  school. — In 
the  sacristy,  Foppa  the  elder,  St.  Ur- 
sula, St.  Peter,  and  St.  Paul,  upon  gold 
groimds ;  and  in  2nd  chapel  on  1.,  Vin- 
cenzio  Foppa,  Our  Lord  bearing  the 
Cross,  considered  as  the  chef-d^ceuvre  of 
this  artist. — Moretto,  at  the  high  altar, 
a  singular  but  fine  composition  ;  abov^-^ 
are  the  Virgin  and  the  Trinity,  between 
Justice  and  Peace ;  below,  St.  Peter  re- 
ceiving the  Keys,  and  St.  JPaul  a  tablet, 
signifying  his  commission  to  preach  the 
G^ospel.  Over  the  first  altar  on  the  rt. 
is  an  allegorical  composition — St.  John 
the  Evangelist  and  the  Beato  Lorenzo 
Giustiniani  listening  to  the  Advice  of 
Wisdom ;  and  over  the  confessionals  2 
paintings  by  the  same  of  the  Fall  of 
Simon  Magus,  and  of  St.  Peter  and 
St.  Paul. — Ricchino,  4  large  subjects 
from  the  life  of  Moses,  in  the  choir. 

Ch.  of  San  Salvatore,  annexed  to  the 
monastery  of  St.  Michael  and  St.  Peter. 
This  noble  building,  in  the  form  of  an 
ancient  Basilica,  was  erected  by  Desi- 
derius  King  of  the  Lombards,  in  the 
middle  of  the  8th  century,  and  is  now 
turned  into  a  military  store.  There  is  a 
curious  crypt  beneath  the  choir,  witli 
frescoes  by  Romanino  and  Foppa,  The 
monastic  buildings  no  longer  exist. 

Besides  the  above-mentioned  churches, 
all  of  which  possess  many  more  paint- 
ings than  we  have  noticed,  there  are 
several  others  containing  objects  worthy 
of  notice. 


272 


Route  27. — Brescia — Brohtto — Library,  Sect.  HI. 


Palazzo  della  Mwncipaliia  or  La 
Loggia^  in  the  Piazza  Vecchia.  Several 
of  the  first  architects  of  the  15th 
and  16th  centuries  have  successively 
worked  upon  this  beautiful  building, 
which  was  intended  for  the  palace  of 
the  municipality,  or  town-hall.  The 
decree  for  its  erection  was  passed  in 
1467  J  but  it  does  not  appear  to  have 
been  commenced  until  1492.  Although 
some  have  attributed  the  first  design 
to  Bramante,  it  appears  that  Tomasso 
Formentone  was  the  architect  who 
raised  the  edifice  to  the  first  floor.  It 
was  continued  by  Sanso vino,  who  erected 
the  second,  and  completed  by  PaUadio, 
who  finished  the  windows;  yet  the 
rich,  varied,  cinquecento  style  predomi- 
nates, and  it  is  one  of  the  finest  speci- 
mens of  the  kind.  The  general  outline 
is  that  of  the  old  Lombard  town-hall  : 
3  rich  arches  form  the  ground-floor  j  an 
arcaded-  coiut  is  seen  receding  beneath 
them.  Above  is  the  council-chamber, 
with  the  projecting  Minghiera  towards 
the  piazza :  an  open  staircase  is  on  the 
side  of  the  building.  The  order  is  a  fan- 
ciful composite ;  the  pilasters  and  friezes 
are  covered  with  rich-sculptured  scale- 
work,  fohage,  and  capricci,  in  the  style 
of  the  baths  of  Titus.  The  entrance 
to  the  lower  chambers  is  a  small  tri- 
umphal arch,  composed,  like  the  whole 
building,  of  the  richest  marbles. 

The  exterior  is  covered  with  sculp- 
ture. The  fine  series  of  medaUions, 
representing  Roman  emperors  in  bor- 
ders of  coloured  marble,  are  by  Gas- 
paro  di  Milano  and  by  Antonio  della 
Porta,  The  fanciful  candelabra  tro- 
pliies  by  Fostinello,  Casella,  Colla^ 
Martino  della  Pesa,  and  Giovanni  da 
Jjugano;  Justice,  and  Saints  Faus- 
tinus  and  Giovita,  by  Bonometti ; 
Faith,  by  Frederico  da  Bagno — all 
artists  of  high  merit,  though  their  re- 
putation is  lost  amidst  the  greater 
names  of  Italy.  The  magnificence  of 
the  interior  originally  fully  corre- 
sponded with  the  outside  ;  but,  on  the 
18th  of  January,  1575,  the  whole  was 
in  flames.  The  proclamation  issued 
by  the  governor  attributed  the  fire  to 
design.     But  it  was  beUeved   at   the 


time  that  the  real  instigators  were  in 
the  Palace  of  St.  Mark,  and  that  the 
illustrious  Signoria  had  paid  the  la- 
cendiary.     The  motive  attributed  for 
the  act  was  the  wish  to  destroy  certain 
charters   of   Uberties  granted  to    the 
Brescians  by  the  emperors,  and  con- 
firmed by  the  republic.     Some   very 
fine  paintings  by  Titian  were  destroyed 
by  this   fire.      The    beautiful    facade 
sufiered   from   the  bombardment    by 
Greneral  Haynau  in  April  1849,   the 
marks   of  several  cannon-balls  being 
still  visible.   In  the  great  but  neglected 
chambers  used  for  business  there  were 
some  paintings  which  have  been  re- 
moved to  the  Museo  CivicOy  where  they 
are  at  present  deposited. 

The  Torre  deV  Orologio.  This  tower 
rises  upon  a  picturesque  portico  and 
arch.  It  is  a  fGie  structure,, and  has  an 
enormous  dial,  with  the  numbers  from 
1  to  24.  It  marks  the  course  of  the 
sun  and  the  moon;  and  two  men  of 
metal,  as  at  Bennett's  in  Cheapside, 
strike  the  hours.   It  was  put  up  in  1522. 

The  Torre  della  Pallata :  this  tower 
is  also  called  Torre  dei  Palladini.  An- 
tiquaries differ  about  the  derivation  of 
these  names.  It  is  a  fine  and  perfect 
specimen  of  castellated  architecture, 
with  a  great  projecting  base  and  lofty- 
battlements  :  it  now  serves  as  the  town 
belfry.  At  the  base  is  a  fountain  (1596), 
from  the  designs  of  Bagnadore,  the 
sculptures  by  Bonesmo  and  Carra. 

The  BrolettOf  near  the  Cathedral, 
the  ancient  palace  of  the  repubhc,  is 
a  huge  pile  of  brick.  A  tower,  called 
the  Torre  del  Popolo,  rises  at  the  S. 
corner  of  the  building,  surmounted  by 
a  rude  belfi'y  and  deeply-cleft  Italian 
battlements.  Some  of  the  terracotta 
ornaments  in  the  great  court  are  very 
beautiful,  particularly  on  a  great  cir- 
cular window.  The  arcade  or  corridor 
is  supported  by  round  and  pointed 
arches.  The  style  is  characteristic  of 
the  times  in  which  it  was  erected, 
between  1187  and  1213.  Here,  as 
everywhere  in  Brescia,  the  armorial 
bearings  were  very  wantonly  effaced  in 
1796.  Before  the  invasion  of  the  French 
the  interior  contained  excellent  paint- 


LoMBARDY.     Eoute  27. — Brescia — Library — Museo  Civico, 


273 


ing9y  and  many  objects  of  historical 
interest ;  but  the  best  were  sold, 
others  destroyed,  and  the  Broletto 
turned  into  a  barrack.  It  is  now  em- 
ployed for  pubhc  offices  and  prisons. 
One  fine  chamber  retains  its  paintings 
on  the  ceiling;  the  subjects  are  from 
the  A^OGalj]^sethyJjattanzioGambara;  i 
Venice  triumphant,  and  St.  Nicolas  of  i 
Bari,  by  Gandini.  j 

The  JOiblioteca  Quiriniana,  liear  the 
Broletto,  was  founded  about  1750  by 
Cardinal  Quirini,  a  diligent  cultivator 
and  munificent  encourager  of  literatiu^. 
To  him  we  owe  the  collection  of  the 
works  of  Cardinal  Pole,  so  useful  as 
documents  for  the  history  of  England. 
Here  he  placed  his  most  ample  collec- 
tions, adding  a  noble  endowment,  which 
is  partly  employed  in  increasing  the 
library,  which  now  contains  upwards  of ' 
30,000  volumes,  including  many  early 
printed  books  and  curious  manuscripts, ! 
besides  objects   df  antiquity.     A  few 
may  be  noticed : — The  JEvangelarium,  or  | 
copy  of  the  Gospels,  according  to  the 
ancient  Italian  version,  written  in  gold 
and  silver  upon  purple  vellum,  of  the 
9th  centmy.     The  Codice  I>iplomatico 
JSrescianOi  consisting  of  Various  char- 
ters from  the   9th  to  the  11th  cen- 
tury, formerly  in  the  archives  of  the 
monastery  oi  Santa  Criulia.    A  Koran, 
upon  cotton  paper,  of  early  date  and 
great  beauty.     The  "  Oroce  Magna,"  ; 
set  with  ancient  gems,  called  also  the  | 
Cross  of  Galla  Placidia,  from  having  on  ; 
it  miniatures  of  that  Empress  and  of  | 
her  childi'cn  Honoria  and  Valentinian 
III. ;  it  is  supposed  to  be  of  the  5tli 
centy.,  and  belonged  also  to  the  con- 
vent   of   St.  Giufia.      Four    valuable 
ivory  diptychs — the  first  in  honour  of 
Manlius  Boetius,  who  became  consul 
in  510,  and  who  was  the  father  of  the 
celebrated  Severinus  Boetius  :  on  the 
back  are  some  curious  Christiian  minia- 
tures of  the  6th  centy.,  representing 
the  Raising  of  Lazarus,  and  3  Saints  :  j 
on  one  side  the  Consul  is  represented 
in  his   consular  robes  j  on  the  other ' 
presiding  at  the  games  of  the  Circus.  I 
Another  diptych  of  Lampadius,  consul 
A.D.  530  :  he   also  is   represented   as ' 
•JV.  Italt/—lS66. 


presiding  at  the  games.  A  third, 
called  the  Dittico  QuvrinianOy  is  said  to 
have  belonged  to  Pope  Paul  II.,  after- 
wards passing  into  the  possession  of 
the  Cardinal,  with  mythological  sub- 
jects— Paris  and  Helen  on  one  side, 
and  a  group  of  Paris  and  Helen  crowned 
by  Love  on  the  other.  Many  have 
suspected  that  it  is  of  comparatively 
recent  date :  the  workmanship  at  all 
events  is  beautiful.  Tlie  lApsanoteca^ 
a  series  of  sculptured  ivory  plates, 
which  formed  a  box  in  the  form  of  a 
cross,  to  contain  rehcs  ;  the  bas-reliefs 
represent  subjects  of  the  Old  and 
New  Testaments,  and  are  referred  to 
the  4th  or  5th  centurv.  There  is 
much  doubt,  however,  as  to  the  origin  of 
this  piece  of  antiquity.  There  are  a  few 
paintings  in  tliis  library : — Titian  : 
the  Virgin,  painted  on  a  slab  of  la- 
pislazuh.  Zuccarelli  :  Saint  Jerome 
taking  care  of  Orphans.  A  very  ex- 
tensive collection  of  engravings,  both 
wood  and  copper,  from  the  first  inven- 
tion of  the  art,  formed  by  Coimt  Mar- 
tinengo,  and  bought  by  the  govern- 
ment for  the  library.  The  Bibhoteca 
Quiriniana  contains  about  200  manu- 
scripts, amongst  which  the  Codex 
Eusebianus  of  the  11th  centy.,  with 
miniatures,  the  Liber  Poteris  Brixioe, 
containing  the  proceedings  of  the 
Municipality  of  Brescia  during  the 
11th,  12th,  and  13th  centuries,  and 
the  Statute  Bresciane,  interesting  for 
local  history  between  1200  and  1385. 

Galleria  Tosi,  or  Mtiseo  Cwico. — 
Tliis  handsome  palace,  with  the  large 
collections  contained  in  it,  were  some 
years  ago  bequeathed  to  his  native  town 
by  one  of  its  distinguished  citizens^ 
Count  Tosi,  well  known  for  his  taste 
and  patronage  of  the  arts ;  the  gal- 
lery is  now  therefore  pubhc,  open 
from  9  to  3  daily,  and  the  property 
of  the  municipality.  It  is  extremely 
well  arranged,  and  distributed  over 
ten  rooms  ;  there  are  good  hand  cata- 
logues in  each  (indeed  the  names  arc 
marked  on  many  of  the  pictures),  we 
shall  therefore  only  notice  the  most  re- 
markable. At  the  top  of  the  stairs  are 
two  busts  by  Monti  of  Ravenna — one 

o 


274 


Eoute  2*1. — Brescia — Museo  Civico — Galleries,       Sect.  III. 


of  Count  Tosi,  and  another  of  Ghlileo;  | 
and  on  the  walls  some  large  pictures 
of  the  Brescian  school,  formerly  in  the 
Palazzo   deUa   MunicipaHta — a    Holy 
Family,  Supper  at  Emmaus,  and  an 
Ecce  Homo,  by  il    Moretto;   Christ 
bearing  his  Cross,  by  Foppa;  2  his- 
torical pieces  by  Campi^  &c.   In  this 
gallery  the  most   remarkable  work  is 
the   celebrated    Saviour,   or    Man    of 
Sorrows,    by  Itaphael,    formerly   be- 
longing to  the  Mosca  family  of   Pe- 
saro,   and   which   was   purchased   by 
Coimt  Tosi  for  24,000  francs — a  small 
picture,  charmingly  executed,  and  ad- 
mirably preserved :   it  represents  our 
Savioiur   crowned  with  Thorns,  with 
one  of   those   fine  masculine  Italian 
faces    of  fair    complexion    which    we 
sometimes  meet  among  thiB  peasantry 
of   the   Apennines  :    it    was    painted 
about  1505.     A  Holy  Family,  by  Frd 
SartolommeOy  once  belonging  to  the 
Salviati  gallery ;   a   Holy  Family,  by 
Andrea   del   Sarto ;    a  good  Battle- 
piece,  by  Borgognone ;  Venus  attired 
by  the  Graces,  by  Alhani,     The  Na-  j 
tivity,  by  Lorenzo  Lotto,  the  Angels 
and  Virgin  being  portraits  of  the  G-us- 
soni  family,  for  whom  it  was  painted ; 
a  Madonna,  by  Franciay  and  another 
by    CHulio    JRomana;    a    portrait    of 
Henri  III.  of  France,  by  Clouet;  a 
drawing  of  the  B.ape  of  the  Sabines,  by 
Polidoro  da  Caravaggio  ;   a  Madonna, 
by  Simone  da  Fesaroi  St.  Francis,  by 
An.  Caracci.    There  are  several  por- 
traits by  Morone,  Titian,  Tintoretto, 
&c.     In  a  small  cabinet  there  is   a 
collection  of  ancient  and  modern  draw- 
ings by  Raphael  (?),  Giulio  Romano, 
Guercino,  Appiani,  Palaggi,  Bossi,  &c. 
Among  the   modem  works   are  two 
Xiandscapes  by  Massimo  d'  Azeglio  ; 
one,  the  IJomo  di  Ferro  of  the  Orlaiido  j 
a  Choir  of  Friars,  by  Chanet;  a  com- 
position by  Hayez,  representing   the 
departure  of  the  Exiles  from  Parga; 
a  picture  of  Sir  Isaac  Newton  studying 
the  effects  of  Ught  on  soap  bubbles,  by 
Fataggi ;  Tasso   reading  the  Gerusa- 
lemme   at   the   Court   of  Ferrara,  bv 
Fodesti ;    and    Count     Ugolino,     by 
Diottif  &c,     A  long  gallery  is  hung 


with  engrayings  from  the  best  masters  ; 
at  the  extremity  of  which  is  a  chapel, 
with  a  fine  statue  of  Christ  disputing 
with  the  Doctors,  by  Marchesiy  over 
the  altar.    There  are  also  some  illumi- 
nated MSS.  by  G.  dei  Libri.  In  different 
parts  of  the  palace  are  works  of  sculp- 
ture ;  a  young  Bacchus,  by  Ba>rtolini  / 
bas-reliefs  of  Ganymede,  and  of  Night 
and  Morning,  by  Thorwaldsen  ;  a  bust 
ofEleonorad'Este,  by  Conoua  J  copies, 
by  Qandolfi,  of  Canova's  bust  of  him- 
self, and  of  th^t  of  Napoleon ;    and 
Pampaloni's  lovely  statue  of  a  Child 
praying,  so  well  known  by  its  numer- 
ous copies.    The  bronzes  and  objects 
of  mrtrik  have   been  removed   to    the 
Museo  Patrio,  and  the  medals,  coins, 
&c.,  to  the  BibHoteca  Quiriniana.    The 
gallery  .of    pictures    and    curiosities 
formed  by  the  late  General  Lecchi  has 
been  lately  added  to  the  Museo  Civico, 
as  Mcll  as  those  of  the  Brozoni  family. 
Brescia  contains  some  good  private 
collections  of  pictures. 

Galleria  Averoldi  (Contrada  di  S. 
Carlo,  No.  1621).  The  Palazzo  Ave-, 
roldi  was  built  in  1544,  and  the 
family  have  been  long  distinguished 
as  cidtivators  and  protectors  of  art. 
Amongst  the  pictures  are  fine  por- 
traits by  Morone,  Faris  Fordone, 
Callisto  da  Lodi,  Qirolamo  Savoldo, 
Romanino,  Fichifio,  &c. ;  landscapes 
by  Faul  Brill  and  Tempest  a;  and 
by  Titian  a  Virgin  with  two  Saints, 
probably  Faustinus  and  Jovita,  by 
Carpaccio ;  this  fine  picture  is  signed 
and  dated  1516 :  a  Virgin  and  Child, 
by  Giovanni  Bellini;  several  speci- 
mens by  Romanino — the  painter's 
own  portrait,  a  Nativity,  and  a  fine 
portrait  of  Gherardo  Averoldi,  who 
contributed  so  materially  to  the  expul- 
sion of  the  Milanese  in  1426  ;  a  Holy 
Family,  by  Salaino ;  and  several  Mo- 
rettos,  &c.  In  the  house  of  another 
member  of  the  Averoldi  family  (Corso 
Carlo  Alberto,  No.  1755)  is  the  cele- 
brated Fcce  Hotno  by  Titian,  a  legacy  of 
the  painter  to  one  of  the  family.  There 
are,  besides,  pictures  by  R&manino, 
Foppa^  and  other  Brescian  painters. 


LOMBARDY.  Route  21  .--Brescia — Gatkines — Palaces. 


275 


Galleria  FenaroU  (Contrada  del 
Peace,  2689),  belonging  to  Count 
Penaroli.  A  Holy  Family,  by  Cima  da 
Conegliano ;  the  same  subject  with  St. 
John,  by  il  Moretto :  St.  Roch  attended 
by  the  Angels,  St.  John  the  Evan- 
gelist, a  Madonna  and  Child,  by  the 
same  j  a  Magdalen,  or,  as  some  will 
have  it,  a  Gripsy,  by  Titian;  speci- 
mens of  il  Moretto ;  fine  portraits  and 
other  pictures  hyMorone;  portraits  by 
Velasqtiez,  Vandyke,  CHorgione,  &c. ; 
landscapes  by  Foussin,  Tempesta,  Sal. 
JRosa ;  views  of  Venice,  by  Canaletti; 
the  Adoration  of  the  Magi,  by  Faul 
Veronese,  Callisto  da  Lodi,  Ghiercino, 
&c.  Also  several  paintings  by  modem 
artists;  amongst  which  Venture  Fe- 
neroli  dragged  to  prison,  from  the  ch. 
of  il  Carmine,  in  1511,  by  Sayez ;  and 
specimens  of  sculpture  by  Thorwaldsen, 
Teneraniy  &c. 

The  Oalleria  JSrizzo  Maffei  (Con- 
trada delle  Grazie,  No.  2731).  The 
pictures  in  this  palace  once  formed  a 
part  of  the  Fenaroli  Gallery.  The  best 
are  :  a  Marriage  of  St.  Catherine,  and 
a  Madonna  with  2  Saints,  by  JRo- 
manino ;  a  good  Holy  Family,  by 
JPalma.  Vecchia ;  St.  Agnes,  and  a  por- 
trait of  a  Man  holding  a  Book,  by 
Moretto;  the  Fates,  by  Tintoretto; 
Ecce  Homo,  by  Cesare  da  Sesto;  a 
Crucifixion,  by  Bassano ;  Andromeda, 
attributed  to  Titian  /  and  a  fine  boy's 
head,  by  Morone* 

Casa  Brozzoni,  Via  di  San  Francesco, 
No.  1977,  contains  some  good  modem 
pictures  :  Jacob  and  Esau  by  Hayez  ; 
a  hunting  scene  hj  Massimo  di  Azeglio; 
a  Magdalen  by  Palaggi ;  the  Flight 
of  Bianca  Capello  by  Appiani  j  and  a 
view  of  the  Piazza  di  S.  Marco  at  Venice, 
the  last  work  of  Migliara,  There 
were  also  some  paintings  of  the  Bres- 
cian  and  Venetian  schools,  and  the 
Mazzuchellian  collection  of  coins  and 
medals,  now  removed  to  the  Museo 
Civico. 

Among  the  palaces  of  Brescia  the 
following  are  most  worthy  of  notice : — 


Palazzo  Martinengo  Sanf  Angelo^ 
at  the  end  of  the  Giardini  Publici, 
long  abandoned,  having  been  nearly  de- 
stroyed by  the  Austrian  cannon  in  1849. 

Palazzo,  or  Casa  Ducco,  in  the  Con 
trada  di  8.  Antonio,  has  a  fine  gateway 
surrounded  by  baa-reUefs  of  military 
ornaments,  a  man  on  horseback  cross- 
ing a  bridge,  said  to  be  Bart.  CoUeoni, 
forming  the  central  one. 

The  gay  external  decorations  of  the 
houses  of  Brescia  form,  or  rather 
formed,  a  pecuHar  feature  of  the  city ; 
but  they  are  rapidly  disappearing,  from 
time  and  from  neglect.  In  the  Strada 
del  Gambaro  are  some  curious  fr'escoes, 
on  which  Bomanino  was  first  em- 
ployed J  but  Gambara  having  married 
his  daughter,  Bomanino  transferred  the 
order  to  his  son-in-law  as  part  of  the 
young  lady's  fortune.  Thej  repre- 
sent various  classical  subjects  : — the 
Bape  of  the  Sabines ;  passages  from 
tlie  Iliad  ;  ^neas  and  Dido  j  Europa 
and  Jupiter  j  the  Continence  of  Scipio ; 
Mutius  Scsevola;  Lucretia^  Asdrubal 
at  the  feet  of  Scipio  j  and  some  others, 
with  a  great  variety  of  accessary  orna- 
ments, showing  wonderful  fancy,  and, 
though  less  grace,  yet  perhaps  even 
more  originaHty,  than  exhibited  by 
Pierino  del  Vaga  in  decorations  not 
dissimilar  in  character. 

In  the  Corso  de^  Mercanti  is  a  house 
covered  *  with  frescoes  by  Gatnbara  ; 
the  subjects  are  allegorical,  and  seem  to 
represent  the  three  principal  stages  of 
hfe,  youth,  manhood,  and  age.  Con- 
trada delta  Loggia,  also  allegorical, 
by  the  same  artist :  these  have  been 
nearly  all  whitewashed. 

"  A  whole  street,  11  Corso  del  Tea- 
tro,  has  the  fronts  of  the  second-floor 
story  painted  with  a  series  of  scrip- 
tm'al,  mythological,  and  historical  sub- 
jects, attributed  to  the  Cavaliere  Sa- 
batti.  They  have  suffered  much  owing 
to  their  exposure  to  the  weather,  but 
the  warm  colours  have  remained,  and 
in  many  portions  are  thoroughly  well 
preserved.  Some  of  the  actions  of  the 
figures  in  these  subjects,  judging  from 
their   remains,    are   very    grand,    and 

o  2 


276 


BoiUe  27. — Brescia — Campo  Santo, 


Sect.  TIT. 


equally  so  is  the  style  in  which  they 
were  drawn ;  many  of  the  deep  but 
brilliant  lake  tones  are  worthy  a  Ve- 
netian."— 8.  A.  Hart,  B,A» 

Palazzo  Martinenffo  CesarescOf  358, 
Contrada  S.  Brigida,  near  the  Museum, 
is  remarkable  for  its  fine  architecture, 
probably  by  Lud.  Beretta,  the  figures 
on  the  sides  of  the  entrance  by  Jaeopo 
Medici,  a  pupil  of  Sansoyino's. 

Palazzo  Martinengo  delta  Fdbrica, 
an  extensive  and  siunptuous  edifice, 
with  a  fine  gate  entrance.  One  chamber, 
painted  by  il  Moretto,  is  a  remarkable 
work :  on  each  of  the  walls  is  a  garden 
scene  or  landscape,  with  a  bower  in 
the  centre,  with  femily  portraits ;  the 
ceiling  is  very  elaborate. 

Palazzo  Cigola,  near  the  CHardini 
Puhlici,  a  good  specimen  of  domestic 
architecture.  It  is  supposed  to  have 
been  here  that  the  wounded  Bayard 
was  so  hospitably  received  in  1512. 

The  Citadel  or  Fortress  of  Brescia 
occupies  the  summit  of  the  hill  round 
the  sides  of  which  the  town  is  built, 
and  is  supposed  to  stand  on  the  site 
of  the  Specula  Cycnea  of  Catullus; 
erected  by  the  Viscontis  in  the  14th 
century,  it  was  much  strengthened  by 
the  Venetians,  and  in  later  years  by  the 
Austrians,  so  as  to  completely  com- 
mand the  city ;  it  was  from  it  that  the 
notorious  Gen.  Haynau  so  barbarously 
bombarded  Brescia  in  1849. 

The  Campo  Santo  is  well  worth  a 
visit,  as  one  of  the  earliest  establish- 
ments of  the  kind  in  Italy,  and 
worthy  of  imitation  in  our  own 
country ;  it  is  situated  a  short  way 
outside  the  Porta  di  S.  Giovanni,  lead- 
ing towards  Milan  on  the  1.,  and  is 
approached  by  a  fine  alley  of  cypresses. 
Vantini,  a  native  of  Brescia,  was  the 
architect,  in  1810,  and  deserves  the 
greatest  credit  for  having  originated, 
and  with  great  taste,  one  of  the  earliest 
of  these  useful  foundations  in  Italy. 
The  Campo  Santo  consists  of  a  semi- 


circular area  in  front,  surrounded  by 
tombs,  and  a  row  of  cypresses.  Prom 
this  outer  area  two  gates  lead  into  the 
inner  cemetery,  between  which  is  a  very 
handsome  chapel  with  a  Doric  portico, 
having  over  the  altar  a  good  statue,  by 
Gandolfi,  of  the  Angel  Gabriel  ascend- 
ing to  heaven,  and  over  the  cornice 
busts  of  the  different  saints  of  Brescian 
origin.  On  either  side  of  this  chapel, 
under  the  porticos  which  flank  it,  are 
the  sepulcln-al  vaults  of  the  principal 
fieimilies  of  the  province.  The  monu- 
ments of  the  Countess  Erizzo  Maffei, 
of  the  Countess  Martinengo  Cesaresco 
di  Barco,  and  of  Count  Tosi,  the 
patriotic  founder  of  the  Museum  that 
bears  his  name,  are  deserving  of  notice ; 
the  two  first  are  by  San  Giorgio,  the 
last  by  Monti  of  Ravenna.  The  ceme- 
tery is  kept  in  admirable  order;  the 
poorer  classes  have  each  a  head-stone, 
of  an  uniform  shape  and  size,  with  a 
number  attached  for  more  easy  refer- 
ence, the  cost  of  which,  including  all 
charges  for  burial  expenses,  only 
amounts  to  about  6  francs.  The  high 
pyramidal  monument  in  the  centre  is  to 
Bossini,  a  benevolent  curate  of  Brescia. 

Plan  for  visiting  in  topographical 
order  the  principal  Sights  at  Brescia. 
— This  can  scarcely  be  done  in  one 
day  ;  the  artist  will  find  ample  oc- 
cupation for  three  or  four. 

Duomo  Vecchio;  Cathedral;  Bro- 
letto ;  Biblioteca  Quiriniana;  Museo 
Patrioi  GaUeria  Tosi;  Ch.of  S.Pietro; 
Citadel ;  Chs.  of  S.  Faustino  Maggiore^ 
of  S.  Giovanni  Fvangelista,  of  S. 
Francesco;  Pal.  delta  Municipalita ; 
Chs.  of  SS.  Nazaro  e  Celso,  S.  Ales- 
sandro,  S.  Afra,  S.  Bamdba,  and  S. 
Eufemia;  CHardini  Puhlici;  GaUeria 
Feneroli  and  Frizzo  Maffei;  Campo 
Santo. 

There  are  diligences  from  Brescia  to 
Gargnano  (30  m.)  on  the  Lago  di 
Garda  daily  at  7  a.m:.,  passing  by 
Bezzato,  Salo,  Mademo,  and  Tos- 
colano,  arriving  at  midday  in  time 
for  the  afternoon  steamer,  which  calls 
there  on  its  voyage  from  Desenzano 


LOMBARDY. 


Ihute  27. — Brescia  to  Peschiera. 


277 


to  Iiimone ;  to  Edolo  in  the  Val 
Camonica  (62  m.),  by  Iseo,  Pisogne^ 
and  JBreno,  returning  to  Brescia  on 
the  intermediate  days.  Fares  to  and 
from  Edolo,  9  lire;  by  this  con- 
veyance the  traveller  can  visit  the 
eastern  shores  of  the  Lago  d'Iseo. 
There  is  also  a  very  good  road  from 
Brescia  (with  a  diligence,  passing  by 
Pestone,  Anfo,  Storro,  and  the  Val  di 
Ledro,  in  11  hrs.)  to  Riva,  the  station 
for  the  steamboats  in  the  Austrian 
portion  of  the  lake  of  Garda,  from 
which  they  sail  in  the  morning  for 
P«schiera,  returning  the  same  evng. 
To  Cremona  at  6  a.m.  in  5  hrs. 

A  Rly.  is  in  progress  from  Brescia 
to  Pavia,  passing  by  Cremona. 


BEESCIA  TO  PESCHIEBA. 

The  Station  at  Brescia  is  immediately 
outside  the  Porta  San  Nazaro^  from 
which  the  Bly .  runs  parallel  to,  and  at  a 
short  distance  on  the  rt.  of  the  old  post- 
road,  through  a  very  rich  and  fertile 
country  at  the  foot  of  the  last  declivities 
of  the  Alps ;  3  trains  daily  each  way  as 
far  as  Peschiera  and  Verona,  2  of  which 
continue  to  Venice  only. 

9  kil.  Hezzato  Stat.  Cross  an  ex- 
tensive plain  for  6  miles  to 

8  kiL  Ponte  San  Marco  Stat.,  on  the 
Chiese,  which  empties  the  Lake  of  Idro : 
roads  lead  from  this  station  to  Salo  and 
G-argnano  on  the  1.,  and  to  the  large  vil- 
lages of  Monte  Chiaro  and  Castiglione 
on  the  rt.  Aiter  crossing  the  Chiese, 
Monte  Chiaro  is  seen  on  the  eastern 
acclivity  of  the  hills  on  the  rt.,  and  a 
continuous  ascent  of  4  m.  brings  us  to 

7  kil.  Lonato  (Stat,  S.  of  the  town), 
which  is  situated  on  the  summit  level 
of  a  range  of  hills  that  separate  the 
plains  bordering  on  the  Chiese  from 
the  Lago  di  Garda,  and  which  extend 
to  Castiglione  and  Volta.  There  is  a 
large  church  with  a  dome  in  the 
centre  of  the  town,  and  a  high  square 
mediaeval  tower,  which    command    a 


j  fine  view  over  tlie  lake  of  Garda ;  and 
I  towards  Verona   are  considerable  re- 
mains of  mediaeval  walls,  which,  seen 
from  the  road  to  Desenzano,  form  very 
picturesque  objects  in  the   landscape. 
'  Lonato  is  celebrated  in  the  early  miU- 
tary  career  of  Napoleon  as  the  scene  of 
one  of  his  most  brilUant  actions.    Here, 
I  on  the  3rd  Aug.  1796,  he  defeated  the 
rt.  wing   of  the  Austrian  army  com- 
manded by  Marshal  Wurmser,  follow- 
ing it  up  two  days  after  by  the  still 
more  decisive   battle    of   Castiglione, 
which  at  the  time  sealed  the  fate  of  the 
Austrians  in  Italy. 

Leaving  Lonato,  the  rly.  at  first  passes 
through  very  deep  cuttings  in  the  gravel- 
beds,  and  through  a  short  ttmnel, 
about  1 J  m.  beyond  which  we  reach  the 
viaduct  of  Desenzano,  a  bridge  consist- 
ing of  15  pointed  arches,  a  strange  fancy 
of  the  Austrian  engineers — the  cause, 
probably,  of  the  insecurity  of  this  great 
work :  it  is  built  of  red  Verona  marble. 
Before  arriving  at  the  viaduct  the 
lake  first  bursts  on  the  traveller ;  no- 
thing can  be  more  magnificent  than 
the  panorama  on  the  1.  from  this 
spot ;  below  us,  Desenzano  with  its 
mediaeval  castle ;  further  on,  the  long 
sandy  spit  of  Sermione  terminated  by 
its  Scaligerian  fortress;  and  beyond, 
the  Monte  Baldo  towering  over  the 
N.E.  shores  of  the  lake. of  Garda,  with 
the  hiUy  region  between  the  latter  and 
the  Adige,  covered  with  towns  and 
villas.  Immediately  after  crossing  the 
viaduct  we  arrive  at 

4  kH.  Desenzano  Stat.,  nearly  a  mile 
from  the  town  and  the  shores  of  the 
lake,  and  at  some  elevation  above  the 
latter.  Omnibuses  are  in  waiting  on 
the  arrival  of  each  train.  The  Italian 
custom-house  station  is  here,  where 
luggage  is  examined  on  arriving  from 
the  Austrian  provinces  beyond  the 
Mincio. 

Desenzano.  (Inns:  Albergo  Beale, 
clean,  "moderate,  and  good  table" — 
C.  B.  N.  ;  and  Posta  Vecchia :  both 
overlooking  the  lake.)  The  town  of 
Desenzano,  which  contains  a  Pop. 
of    5000  souls,    is    situated    on    the 


2?8 


lloute  27. — Peninsula  qfSernUone. 


Sect.  111. 


shores  of  tho  lake;  immediately  above 
rises  a  fine  old  castle,  which  in  me- 
diseval  times  commanded  the  road 
between  Brescia  and  Verona.  Desen- 
zano  will  be  the  point  from  which  the 
island  or  promontory  of  Sermione  can 
be  most  easily  visited.  The  distance 
by  water  is  6,  and  by  land  between  6 
and  7  m.  In  fine  weather  the  row 
across  will  occupy  1 J  hr. 

**  Peninsalaram  Sinnio  insularomqae 
Ocella,  qaascunque  in  liouentibus  stagnis, 
Mari  vasto  fert,  uterqae  Neptunus." 
—Catullus,  Peninsuku  Sii-mionis  laudis. 


"  Salve,  o  Venusta  Sirmio 


lb. 


The  Peninsula  of  Sermione,  which  is 
now  virtually  an  island  since  the  cutting 
of  the  ditch  which  separates  it  from  the 
long  sandy  spit  at  the  extremity  of 
which  it  is  situated,  is  well  worth  a 
visit;  it  consists  of  a  ridge  of  lime- 
stone, having  at  its  S.  extremity  the 
village  and  the  picturesque  castle,  which 
forms  so  fine  an  object  of  the  landscape 
of  the  Lake  of  Giarda,  and  at  the  N. 
point  some  very  extensive  Boman  ruins, 
which  tradition  has  attributed  to  the 
Villa  of  Catullus.  There  is  an  Osteria, 
La  Scaligera^  in  the  village,  where  the 
tourist,  if  incUned  to  prolong  his  stay, 
wiU  find  a  decent  bed  and  tolerable 
fare.  The  village  is  entered  by  a  draw- 
bridge and  a  mediaeval  gate  on  the 
S.  On  the  opposite  side  is  a  fortified 
wall  that  separates  it  from  the  N. 
portion  of  the  island,  and  through 
which  opens  the  only  gate  in  that  di- 
rection. The  old  castle,  in  the  form 
of  a  quadrangle,  with  a  high  square 
tower,  was  entered  on  the  side  of  the 
N.  by  a  drawbridge.  This  entrance  is 
still  well  preserved,  as  well  as  its  small 
port  or  darsena,  surrounded  by  crene- 
lated battlements;  but  the  principal 
entrance  is  now  on  the  side  of  the 
village  by  a  gate  over  which  are 
shields  bearing  the  arms  of  the  Scali- 
gers,  and  which,  having  on  each  side 
the  letters  A.  A.,  shows  that  the  edifice 
dates  from  Alboino  or  Alberico  della 
Scala,  and  was  erected  in  the  14th 
cent.  The  castle,  which  belongs  to 
the  government,  is  tenanted  by  half  a 
dozen  soldiers,  whilst  the  war- steamers 


of  the  N.  Italian  kingdom  lie  moored 
off  it.      In  the  village  church  there 
is  notliing  worthy  oi  notice.     There 
is    a   curious    fragment   of  an    early 
Christian    bas-relief   in   the    wall    of 
a    house    adjoining.       The    town    of 
Sermione  is  chiefly  inhabited  by  fisher- 
men.   As  the  tourist  proceeds  into  the 
interior  of  the  island  he  will  see  under 
the  gate  a  mutilated  Eoman  altar  dedi- 
cated to  Jupiter,  and  a  fragment   of 
another  inscription.    The  whole  of  the 
island    is   one  extensive  ohve-garden, 
the    ohve-tree  here  flourishing  luxu- 
riantly, some  of  the  trees  attaining  a 
size  equal  to  those  of  the  Lucchese  or 
Eoman  territories.    About  the  centre 
of  the  island  is  an  old  ch.  dedicated  to 
St.  Peter,  which  contains  some  curious 
frescoes  of  the  14th  or  15th  centy.,  re- 
presenting the  Crucifixion,  the  Virgin 
and  Child,  St.  Q-eorge,  &c.    Proceeding 
from  thence  towards  the  N.  extremity, 
we  come  upon  an  oblong  square  build- 
ing, the  walls  of  wliich  are  of  Boman 
construction,  called  by  the  local  cice- 
rone the  Baths  of  Catullus.    A  short 
way  beyond  this    is   a   subterranean 
arched  passage,  and  farther  on  a  second 
one,  but  more  extensive,  which  formed 
evidently  the  substructions  of  an  ex- 
tensive edifice,  no  trace  of  which  re- 
mains above  ground  except  a  portion 
of  the  pavement  of  a  court  formed  of 
bricks  laid  edgeways   and  diagonally. 
It  is  at  the  N.  extremity  of  the   island 
that  the  most   extensive  ruins    exist, 
and  which  are  really  of  Boman  gran- 
deur.   They  consist  of  massive  pilas- 
ters and  arches  in  a  grand  style  of 
Boman  masonry,  formed  of  alternate 
layers  of  brick  and  of  the  slaty  lime- 
stone of  the  locality.    They  evidently 
supported  a  very  extensive  edifice,  the 
position  of  which  is  one  of  the  finest 
on  the  whole  Lake  of  Garda,  command- 
ing a  view  of  a  great  portion  of  its  N« 
prolongation  into  the  mountains  of  the 
Tyrol,  here  wild  and  savage;  the  shores 
OI  the  most  fertile  portion  from  Gar- 
gnano  to  Desenzano  on  one  side,  and 
from   Torri  and  Pont  St.  Vigilio  to 
Peschiera  on  the  other ;  with  the  Monte 
Baldo,  the  gorge  of  the  Adige,  and 


liOMBARDY. 


Ihute  27. — Logo  di  Garda. 


279 


the  peaks  above  Recoaro  in  the  back- 
ground ;  whilst  in  the  fore  are  the 
hilly  region  between  the  Adige  and 
the  Benacus,  and  the  lovely  villages 
of  Gturda,  Bardolino,  Lazzise,  Paeengo, 
&c.,  bordering  the  shores  of  the  lake. 
The  high  pointed  peak  on  the  1.  of  the 
Upper  Lake  is  the  Monte  Fraine,  over- 
hanging the  valley  of  Toscalano :  the 
abrupt  point  beyond  Manerba  on 
our  1.  shuts  out  the  view  of  the  Bay  of 
Salo  :  near  the  extremity  of  this  point 
is  the  island  of  S.  Francesco,  covered 
with  orang:e.groves,  surrounding  the 
Villa  Lecchi,  one  of  the  finest  situations 
on  the  lake.  S.  of  Manerba  are  the 
villages  of  Moniga  and  Padenghe,  re- 
markable for  their  fine  mediaeval  castles, 
square  structures,  with  towers  at  their 
angles,  and  still  well  preserved. 

The  Lago  di  Oarda^  the  Benacus  of 
classical  writers,  is  formed  chiefly  by 
the  river  Mincio  descending  from  the 
Italian  Tyrol.    Although  receiving  less 
water  than  the  Lago  Maggiore  or  Lake 
of  Como,  it  is  much  more  extensive ; 
indeed  more  so  than  any  of  the  ItaHan 
lakes.      Its   surface  is  227  ft.  above 
the  level  of  the  sea,  and  its  greatest 
hitherto  ascertained  depth  1900  Eng.  ft. 
Its  upper  portion  is  surroimded  by 
high  mountains,  and  except  at  the  delta 
of  the  Mincio  near  E.iva  its  sides  are 
bold  and  precipitous.    The  lower  por- 
tion, in  the  midst  of  the  less  elevated 
subalpine  region,  widens  out,  and  its 
shores   are  fertile    and  covered   with 
villages.     Here  the  climate  is  milder 
than  upon  the  other  Lombard  lakes, 
owing  to  its  less  elevated  position  above 
the  sea.    The  olive  is  much  cultivated, 
and    extensive   plantations  of  lemon- 
trees,  which  however  it  is  necessary  to 
cover  during  the  winter-season.    From 
its  greater  extent  and  the  prevailing 
winds  the  Lake  of  Qurda  is  more  sub- 
ject to  violent  storms  than  either  those 
of  Como  or  Maggiore,  and,  from  the 
larger  expanse  of  water,  the  waves  rise 
to  a  greater  height,  which  have  ren- 
dered  it  celebrated    for    its    storms, 
giving  to  its  waters  the  appearance  of 
an  agitated  sea— 


"  teque 
Fluctibiu  etfremitu  assurgens  Benaoe  Marino.' 

The  Lake  of  Q-arda  abounds  in  fish, 
the  principal  of  which  are  the  trout, 
pike,  tench,  eel,  two  or  three  species 
of  the  carp  genus,  with  the  Sardella  and 
the  Agone^  which  are  different  ages  of 
the  deUcious  jfresh-water  herring  that 
exists  in  the  other  Lombard  lakes.  By 
a  strange  anomaly  the  perch  is  entirely 
wanting  here,  although  so  abundant 
in  the  more  western  lakes,  where  it 
is  justly  considered  one  of  the  finest 
species  for  the  table. 

The  only  outlet  is  the  Mincio  at 
Peschiera,  which  is  not  navigable,  being 
intercepted  by  weirs,  where  great  num- 
bers of  trout  are  caught.  The  recent 
introduction  of  trawling  on  the  Lake 
of  Garda,  as  on  the  Lago  Maggiore, 
is  soon  likely  to  exterminate  this 
fish,  now  rapidly  decreasing  in  conse- 
quence. 

According  to  the  latest  arrange* 
ments  Salo  is  the  point  of  departure 
for  the  Italian  steamers  when  they 
leave  at  an  early  hour,  proceeding  on 
Tues.  and  Sat.  to  Deseuzano,  returning 
to  Salo,  and  from  there  proceeding 
to  Limone,  to  return  to  Salo  in  the 
evening;  whilst  on  Mon.  and  Thurs. 
they  proceed  in  the  first  instance  to 
Limone,  returUing  by  Salo  to  Deseu- 
zano, which  they  reach  at  4*30  p.m.,  and 
going  back  afterwards  to  Salo :  by  this 
means  the  tourist  will  be  able  to  see 
the  W.  shore  of  the  lake  to  advantage, 
the  most  important  places  on  which 
are,  on  leaving  Deseuzano, 

Manerba,  beyond  which  are  the 
islands  of  San  Biagio  and  G-arda,  upon 
one  of  which  is  the  pretty  villa 
formerly  belonging  to  General  Lecchi. 

Salo, 

Madertw,  a  large  village  surrounded 
with  lemon  plantations. 

Toscolano,  where  there  are  several 
paper-mills,  at  the  foot  of  the  peak  of 
Monte  Fraine. 

BogliascOi  with  a  handsome  villa 
residence;   and  2  m.  beyond 


I'SO 


lloate  27. — Excursion  to  Solferiuo, 


Sect.  III. 


GargtiatWf  one  of  the  most  con- 
siderable towns  on  the  Lake  of  Q-arda, 
and  where  the  carriage-road  on  the  W. 
side  ends. 

Campione  and  Tremosine,  in  a  very 
fertile  district,  covered  with  a  rich 
southern  vegetation ;  5  m.  beyond 
which  is 

Limoiie^  the  extreme  northern  sta- 
tion, and  about  2  m.  from  the  Tyrolese 
frontier,  between  La  Nova  (Italian) 
and  Pregasena  (Austrian). 


EXCURSION  TO  60LFEBIK0.  . 

Ponte  S.  Marco,  or  Desenzano^  will 
be  the  most  convenient  points  from 
which  Solferino  battle-field  can  be 
visited  by  travellers  arriving  from 
Brescia  and  Milan ;  the  former  is  the 
nearest  of  the  two,  but  vehicles  are  more 
easily  procured  at  the  latter  station. 
In  every  case,  should  the  traveller  pro- 
ceed from  S.  Marco,  he  will  do  well  to 
stipulate  that  after  visiting  Solferino  he 
shall  be  carried  to  the  Desenzano  or  Pes- 
chiera  station  if  he  be  proceeding  to 
Venice,  or  back  to  S.  Marco  or  Lonato 
if  he  be  going  towards  Milan.  A  car- 
riage with  2  horses  will  cost  from  12 
to  15  fr.  Leaving  Ponte  S.  Marco,  a 
good  road  leads  to  Monte  Chiaro,  Cas- 
tigUone,  Solferino,  S.  Cassiano,  La  Volta, 
and  Borghetto  on  the  Miiicio,  at  which 
the  river  may  be  crossed  with  the  per- 
mission of  the  Austrian  authorities; 
but  as  this  has  been  lately  attended 
with  difficulty,  it  will  be  better  to 
ascend  along  the  1.  bank  as  far  as 
IlonzambanOf  where  there  is  a  very 
curious  Scaligerian  Castle,  and  to 
cross  from  there  by  a  liilly  road  to 
Pozzolengo  and  S.  Martino,  the  scene 
of  the  heroic  resistance  of  the  Pied- 
montese,  and  from  thence  to  Desenzano. 
The  route  from  Desenzano  will  be 
somewhat  difiei*ent,  avoiding  Monte 
Chiaro  and  CastigUone.  In  either  case, 
the  excursion  will  occupy  from  6  to 
8hrs. 


The  hilly  region  which  extends  from 
the  southern  extremity  of  the  lake  of 
Garda  for  about  10  m.,  and  between 
the  Chiese  and  Mincio,  consists  of  a 
gravel  deposit,  forming  a  kind  of  great 
terminal    Moraine    of   an    enormous 
glacier,  which,  according  to  some  geo- 
logists, may  at  a  remote  period  have 
filled  up  this  beautiful  basin.     These 
hills    are    covered    with    towns    and 
villages,  with  vineyards  and  plantations 
of  mulberry- trees,  the  principal  centres, 
of   population  being    Lonato,   Casti^ 
gUone   delle    Steviere,   San   Cassiano, 
Oavriano,   and   Volta;    placte  which 
have  acquired  a  certain  celebrity  during 
the  late  war,  as  having  witnessed  ihe 
last  scenes  in  the  great  struggle  which 
closed  with  the  Peace -of-Viilalranca. 
A  few  words  may  be  said  therefore  on 
the  events  that  preceded  the  great  bat- 
tle to  which  the  name  of  Solferino  has 
been  given  by  the  Emp.  of  the  French. 

In  other  joarts  of  this  volume  (pp. 
37,  42)  we  have  noticed  the  earlier 
operations  during  tlie  campaign  of  1859. 
After  tlie  victory  at  Magenta,  which 
opened  Lombardy  to  the  Emperor 
Napoleon,  the  Austrian  army  found 
itsdf  constrained  to  retreat,  abandon- 
ing Milan,  Pavia,  Piacenza,  &c.,  and  to 
place  itself  in  a  strong  defensive 
position  behind  the  Mincio.  The 
French,  on  tlie  other  hand,  were  not 
slow  in  following  up  their  successes  on 
the  Ticino.  A  second  victory  over  the 
retreating  army  at  Melegnano,  on  the 
7th  June,  was  the  first  result  of  tliis 
onward  movement  (p.  243).  The  Aus- 
trians,  however,  succeeded  in  making 
good  their  retrograde  movement,  in 
crossing  the  river,  and  in  placing  them- 
selves under  the  protection  of  Verona, 
Pescliiera,  and  Mantua — the  strong- 
holds of  the  celebrated  Quadrilateral  of 
their  military  writers,  between  the  Adige 
and  the  Mincio.  The  Emp.  Francis 
Joseph,having  assumed  the  command  of 
his  army,  and  having  received  large  rein- 
forcements, instead  of  shutting  himself 
up  in  Verona,  determined,  towards  the 
end  of  June,  to  reassume  the  offensive, 
and  thereby  to  repair  the  successive 


liOMDARDY. 


Route  27. — Solfenno. 


281 


disasters  of  Ms  generals  in  the  earlier 
part  of  tlie  campaign.  On  the  evening 
of  June  23rd  the  whole  Austrian 
army  sallied  out  from  Verona  and 
Mantua,  recrossed  the  Mincio,  and 
occupied  the  principal  points  of  the 
hilly  region,  from  Pozzolengo  on  the 
N.E.,  by  Solfenno  and  Cavriana,  to 
Griudizzolo  in  the  plain  of  the  Chiese; 
their  line  of  battle  being  nearly  12  m.  in 
length ;  the  village  of  SoHerino,  perched 
on  a  high  hill  overlooking  the  plain, 
being  its  centre  j  the  French  being 
posted  from  Lonato  to  Carpendolo  by 
Castiglione ;  and  the  Piedmontese,who 
formed  the  left  wing  of  the  AUied 
Army,  from  Desenzano  to  Bivoltella, 
on  the  S.  shores  of  the  lake. 

On  the  24th  of  June,  at  5  A.M.,  the 
French  commenced  the  battle  by  at- 
tacking the  left  wing  of  the  Austrians 
in  the  plain  of  Medole,  and  soon  after 
the  centre  of  the  Imperialists  at  Solfe- 
nno ;  whilst  the  Piedmontese,  com- 
manded by  their  gallant  King,  engaged 
the  enemy's  right,  under  Marshal 
Benedek,  the  most  experienced  of  the 
Austrian  commanders,  between  Pozzo- 
lengo and  S.  Martino.  The  battle,  or 
rather  the  several  almost  independent 
actions,  lasted  with  varying  successes 
until  4  P.M.,  although  for  the  Allies 
with  hoTU'ly  increasing  advantage,  when 
by  a  supreme  effort  the  French  suc- 
ceeded in  carrying  Solferino,  the  key 
of  the  position,  and  estabhshing  them- 
selves soUdly  on  its  heights,  thus  cut- 
ting the  Austrian  line  into  two ;  the 
result  was  a  general  retreat,  which  was 
effected  with  considerable  order  on  the 
same  evening,  by  recrossing  the  Mincio 
at  Monzambano,  Borghetto,  and  Goito ; 
the  Piedmontese  at  the  same  time 
repulsing  Benedek,  and  obUgiag  him 
to  retire  under  the  guns  of  Peschiera. 
The  Austrian  army  is  said  to  have 
amounted  to  150,000  men,  the  Allied 
French  and  Sardinian  to  a  nearly 
equal  number.  The  losses  of  the 
former  have  been  estimated  at  20,000 
killed  and  wounded,  and  7000  pri- 
soners, with  30  pieces  of  cannon.  The 
immediate  consequence  of  this  victory 


was  the  investment  of  Peschiera  by  the 
Piedmontese,  and  the  estebUshment  of 
the  French  on  the  1.  oank  of  the 
Mincio,  preparatory  to  their  laying 
siege  to  Verona  and  Mantua,  each 
party  preparing  for  fr«sh  onslaughts, 
when  the  Treaty  of  Villafranca  (July 
11th),  so  hastily  and  unexpectedly 
concluded  between  the  two  Emperors, 
put  an  end  to  the  war,  leaving  un- 
attained  the  object  for  which  it  was 
undertaken  as  declared  by  Napoleon  III. 
— the  hberation  of  Italy  from  the  yoke 
of  Austria  from  the  Alps  to  the  Adnatic 
— the  Venetian  provinces,  with  their 
great  military  strongholds,  remaining  in 
the  hands  of  the  defeated  Emperor. 

The  village  of  Solferino  is  remarkable 
for  a  high  medisevai  tower,  probably  of 
the  age  of  the  Scahgers,  which  is  known 
by  the  name  of  La  Spia  d^ Italia  — 
the  look-out  or  watch-tower  of  Italy — 
from  the  extensive  view  it  commands, 
extending  from  the  Alps  to  the  Apen- 
nines, and  along  the  Lake  of  G-arda 
nearly  to  its  termination  in  the  heart 
of  the  Tyrolese  Alps.  Of  IJonato 
and  Oastighone  we  have  already 
spoken.  S.  Cassiano  and  Cavriana  are 
villages  of  Uttle  importance :  it  was  in 
the  latter  that  the  Emperor  Francis 
Joseph  passed  the  night  preceding  the 
battle,  and  Napoleon  the  night  after. 
Volta,  which  derives  it  name  from  the 
turn  in  the  direction  of  the  road  lead- 
ing to  .the  passage  of  the  Mincio  at 
Borghetto,  is  upon  the  edge  of  the 
plain.  The  three  passages  of  the  river 
between  Peschiera  and  Mantua  by 
bridges  are  at  Monzambano,  Borghetto, 
and  Q-oito ;  the  latter  celebrated  for  a 
briUiant  success  of  the  Piedmontese 
army,  commanded  by  their  King 
Charles  Albert,  during  the  campaign 
of  1849. 

As  before  stated,  the  battle-fields  of 
the  24th  of  Juno  1859  can  be  most 
conveniently  visited,  by  persons  arriv- 
ing from  Milan  and  proceeding  to 
Venice,  from  Ponte  di  S.  Marco  and 
Desenzano ;  from  Peschiera  by  tourists 
proceeding  in  an  opposite  (hrection; 
and  from  Villafranca  and  Borghetto  by 
travellers  from  Verona  who  wish  after- 

o  3 


282 


EoiUe  27. — PozzoUngo — Peschiera. 


Sect.  III. 


wards  to  proceed  to  Mantua,  Parma, 
and  Bologna.  . 

From  the  Desenzano  Stat,  the  Ely. 
follows  the  plain  which  is  bordered  by 
the  amphitheatre  of  low  hills  which 
bound  the  lake  on  the  S.  The  views 
over  it  in  this  part  of  the  journey  are 
extremely  fine :  none  more  beautiful 
than  its  first  burst  on  the  traveller  be- 
fore reaching  the  Desenzano  viaduct. 
A  very  gradual  incline  of  about  120  ft. 
in  5  m.  brings  us  to  near 

The  village  of  PozzolengOy  before 
reaching  which  the  village  of  San 
Martino  is  left  on  the  rt.  S.  Martino 
was  the  scene  of  one  of  the  most  bril- 
liant victories  of  the  Piedmontese  in 
the  campaign  of  1859,  on  June  24, 
who,  attacked  by  the  whole  rt.  wing 
of  the  Austrian  army  under  Marshsd 
Benedek,  drove  him  back,  and  ulti- 
mately obliged  him  to  retire  under  the 
guns  of  Peschiera.  3  m.  beyond  this 
the  first  detached  forts  of  Peschiera  are 
passed  on  the  rt.  and  1.,  and  soon  after 
the  town  and  fortress,  close  to  which 
the  Mincio  is  crossed  on  a  fine  stone 
bridge  of  5  arches,  with  a  road  for 
carriages  beneath,  the  bridge  being 
more  than  50  ft.  above  the  river.  A 
short  distance  farther  is  the 

15  kil.  Peschiera  Stat.  (There  is  a 
fair  Buffet  at  the  Ely.  Stat.,  and  a 
miserable  Inn  within  the  fortress,  the 
Alhergo  delle  Tre  Corone.)  At  the  Bly. 
Stat,  the  traveller  proceeding  to  Eiva 
by  the  steamer  will  find  an  omnibus  in 
attendance  to  carry  him  to  the  borders 
of  the  lake,  and  carriages  to  any  other 
point  he  may  wish  to  visit.  Peschiera, 
which  is  situated  partly  on  an  island 
formed  by  the  Mincio  where  it  issues 
from  the  Lake  of  Ghirda,  has  been  very 
strongly  fortified  of  late  years,  first  by 
,  Napoleon,  and  since  by  the  Austrians; 
and  has  been  the  scene  of  many  san- 
guinary conflicts :  it  underwent  a  siege 
of  seven  weeks  in  1848,  when  it  sur- 
rendered to  the  Piedmontese  under 
Carlo  Alberto,  -Since  that  time  the 
works  have  been  greatly  strengthened 


by  the  erection  of  several  detached 
forts,  especially  on  the  "W.  side,  and 
extensive  barracks  forming  3  sides  of  a 
square  in  the  island-quarter  of  the 
town.  It  was  again  invested  in  June 
1859  by  the  Piedmontese  after  the 
battle  of  Solferino,  but  its  siege  was 
cut  short  by  the  Treaty  of  Villafranca. 
The  town  itself,  on  the  rt.  bank  of  the 
Mincio,  is  a  miserable  place. 

Peschiera  being  the  frontier  town  of 
the  Austro-Italian  provinces,  luggage  is 
examined  here,  an  operation  that  takes 
up  half  an  hour,  during  which  the  rly.- 
trains  are  detamed.  It  is  also  the  station 
for  the  Austrian  Govermnent  steamers, 
which  ply  upon  the  Lago  di  G-ardaj 
they  start  regularly  for  Riva,  calling  at 
the  different  towns  on  the  eastern  side ; 
their  time  of  arrival  and  departure  cor- 
responds with  that  of  the  railway  trains 
to  Verona  and  Brescia,  thus  establishing 
an  expeditious  communication  between 
the  Tyrol  and  Venetian  Lombardy ;  the 
hours  and  days  of  starting  being — for 
Biva,  daily,  from  May  to  Oct.,  at  1  p.m., 
and  in  winter  on  Mon.,  \Ved.,  and 
Frid.,   corresponding  with    the  early 
trains  from  Milan,  Verona,  and  Venice. 
The  boats  employ  3J  to  4  hrs. :  the 
fares  If  florin.    The  same  boats  leave 
Riva  for  Peschiera  at  an  early  hour, 
reaching    Peschiera  in   time   for   the 
afternoon  trains  to  Milan,  Verona,  and 
Venice.  They  call  off  ifcfaZcmwe,  Ca*^e^- 
lettOy  Torri,  Garda,  Lazise,  and  Bar- 
dolino.     By  these   arrangements  the 
traveller  leaving  Venice  and  Milan  by 
the  early  morning   trains,  can  reach 
Trent,  the  capital  of  the  Italian  T^l, 
on  the  same  evening;   but  these  ar- 
rangements vary  with  the  season  as  to 
days  and  hours.    There  is  a  fair  restaur' 
ant  on  board  these  steamers.    Omni- 
buses start  from  Riva  for  Trento  every 
momg.,  places  in  which  ought  to  be 
secured  on  board ;  and  to  Mori,  on  the 
Rly.  from   Verona   to   Bolzano,  also 
every  mom.    An  Italian    boat   runs 
between  Desenzano,  Salo,  and  Limone, 
going  and  returning  on  Mon.,  Tues., 
Thurs.,  and  Sat.,  calling  at  Tremesine, 
G-argnano,    and    Mademo;   returning 
from  Desenzano  on  the  same  evening, 


LOMBARDY. 


Route  28. — MUan  to  Bergamo. 


283 


calling  off  Maderno,  Gargano,  Salo 
(which  will  be  the  best  stopping 
place,  where  the  Gambero  is  a  good 
5«n,  but  make  your  bargain) :  a  very 
agreeable  excursion  of  12  hrs.  from 
Sale  to  the  Lake  of  Idro.  At  Kiva, 
11  Sole  is  a  right  good  Inn. 

The  battle-fields  of  San  Martino  and 
Solferino  may  be  also  conyeniently 
-visited  from  Peschiera ;  in  which  case 
the  itinerary  will  be  to  S.  Martino, 
Pozzolengo,  Solferino,  and  Cavriana, 
returning  by  San  Cassiano  and  Cas- 
tiglione  to  Lonato  or  Desenzano ;  or, 
should  the  traveller  be  proceeding 
to  Mantua,  from  Cavriana  to  Volta, 
crossing  the  Mincio  at  Bor^hetto,  and 
Valeggio  to  Villafranca  station  on  the 
rly.  Carriages  for  the  excursion  can 
be  procured  from  a  person  named  Nuto, 
to  be  heard  of  at  the  inn  of  the  Tre 
Corone.  A  carriage  with  2  horses  will 
cost  from  15  to  20  francs,  according  to 
the  number  of  persons,  but,  in  making 
the  bargain,  it  must  be  distinctly  un- 
derstood that  the  Vetturino  will  bring 
back  the  tourists  either  to  the  Pes- 
chiera,  Lonato,  or  Desenzano  stations, 
or  to  Villafranca. 

Several  agreeable  excursions  may  be 
made  from  Peschiera.    8  m.  from  it  is 
the  village  of  Cola,  very  beautifully 
situated  on  a  hill  (Colle).  2  m.  farther 
is  Lazise,  on  the  E.  shore  of  the  lake, 
surrounded  with  very  picturesque  me- 
disBval  walls :  its  castle,  consisting  of 
towers  and  a  dungeon,  was  erected  by 
Mastino  della  Scala  in  the  13th  cent. 
3  m.  farther  N.  is  Bardolino,  also  on  the 
lake.  Here  the  traveller  will  do  well  to 
take  boat  to  visit  the  picturesque  pro- 
montory of  San  Vi^ilio,  on  which  is 
a  handsome  villa,  built  ()y  Sanmichele ; 
and  3  m.  farther  Torri,  with  remains 
of  a  Scaligerian  castle  erected  by  Al- 
berto della  Scala  in   1333;    he  may 
then  return  to  the  village  of  Garda, 
one  of  the  most  beauti^Uy  situated 
places  on  the  Lake  to  which  it  gives 
its    name,    and    enjoying    a    climate 
much  milder  than  any  other  on  its 
shores.  At  Garda  is  the  villa  of  Count 
Albertini,  with  handsome  gardens  and 
plantations ;  and  a  little  way  S.  of  it, 


dolese  Sanctuary,  where  Count  Alga- 
rotto  resided :  it  is  in  a  lovely  situation. 
A  ride  of  an  hour  from  Garda  will  bring 
the  tourist  to  the  plateau  of  Rivoli,  the 
scene  of  one  of  Napoleon's  most  de- 
cisive victories  over  the  Austrians  in 
1797;  from  here,  descending  the  rt. 
bank  of  the  Adige,  he  may  reach  Pas^ 
trengo,  celebrated  in  all  the  Italian 
wars  as  a  military  position ;  or  proceed 
to  Verona  by  the  rly.  from  tiie  stat  of 
Ceraino  in  about  an  hour. 


ROUTE  28. 

MILAN  TO  BEBGAMO,  BY  THE  POST-EOAD 
THEOiraH  GOBaONZOLA  AND  TAPEIO. 


About  29  m. 

This,  which  was  formerly  the  most 
direct  line  of  communication  with  Ber- 
gamo, is  now  seldom  followed  by 
ti'avellers  since  the  opening  of  the 
Railway;  still  it  offers  interest,  as  it 
passes  through  one  of  the  richest 
agricultural  districts  of  Lombardy.  It 
can  only  be  performed  by  means  of 
vetturini  or  hired  horses,  as  the  post 
stations  have  been  removed.  It  follows 
the  line  of  the  Martesana  canal  nearly 
all  the  way  to  the  Adda. 

Quit  Milan  by  Porta  di  Venezia, 

Crescenzago,  a  pleasant  village,  with 
many  villas  and  gardens  around. 

,.i«^»N/«o,  «"«*  -  — v.^  ,.*.^  ^.  ^.  .-,  Ij  Casdna  de*  Pecchi,  This  is  a 
on  the  hill  of  the  Eremo,  a  villa  of  I  famous  cheese  district,  of  less  extent 
Count  Borri,  on  the  site  of  a  Carnal-  [  than  that  about  Lodi,  but  nevertheless 


284 


Eoute  28. — Milan  to  Bergamo, 


Sect.  Ill 


of  conside rable  importance.  The  cheese 
is  called  Straccfuno.  The  road  con- 
tinues as  far  as  Le  Forrmei,  along 
the  Martesana  canal.  This  canal  was 
first  excavated  in  1457,  by  Francesco 
Sforza ;  but  the  levels  being  ill  calcu- 
lated, it  was  nearly  useless.  Leon- 
ardo da  Vinci  was  afterwards  called 
in,  and  he  gave  plans  for  improving 
the  cut:  and  when  the  duchy  was 
occupied  by  the  French,  Francis  I. 
assigned  5000  zecchins  annually  for 
the  works.  In  the  16th  centy.,  under 
Philip  II.  of  Spain,  other  surveys  were 
made;  but  the  naviglio  was  almost 
entirely  re-excavated  in  1776. 

Gorgonzola,  a  flourishing  to«rn,  with 
a  new  church  and  cemetery.  Here  the 
Milanese  suffered  a  signal  defeat  from 
Frederick  Barbarossa  in  1158,  a  little 
before  the  destruction  of  Milan ;  and 
here  King  Heinz,  whom  the  Italians 
call  EnziOf  the  illegitimate  son  of  Frede- 
rick II.,  was  taken  prisoner  (1245)  by 
the  Milanese,  but  released  upon  his 
swearing  that  he  never  again  would  en- 
ter their  territory,  an  escape  which  only 
renewed  for  him  the  captivity  which 
ended  with  his  life.  About  Gorgonzola 
the  best  stracchino  is  made  from  cream 
and  unskimmed  cows*  milk.  It  derives 
its  name  from  having  been  originally 
made  from  the  milk  of  the  cows  of  the 
migrating  herds,  called  hergamini  (per- 
haps from  the  German  word  berg,  a 
mountain),  which  came  down  from  the 
mountain  pastures  {(dpi)  in  the  au- 
tumn, to  feed  during  the  winter  in  the 
plains,  and  which  arrived  siroccAe,  tired. 
Since  the  consumption  has  become  very 
great,  it  has  been  made  also  from  the 
milk  of  cows  which  pasture  always  in 
the  plain  country.  Two  sorts  are  pro- 
duced, one  in  a  square  form,  which  is 
eaten  fresh,  or  when  not  more  than  6 
months  old ;  the  other  round,  and  of  a 
coDsidevable  size,  which  is  kept  from 


3  to  12  months.  It  is  valued  in  pro- 
portion as  it  is  duly  streaked  and 
spotted  with  green  marks,  called  erbo' 
rine,  and  which  are  produced  by  mixing 
the  curd  of  one  day  with  that  of  the 
previous  one.  Although  a  mild  rich 
cheese  at  first,  it  becomes  very  strong 
by  keeping.  Old  stracchino  is  greatly 
esteemed;  The  stracchino  is  sold  fresh 
at  about  I  fr.  the  large  pound,  i.  e.  about 
5d.  a  lb.  avoirdupois.  It  is  estimated 
that  the  cow  which  yields  the  milk  for 
stracchino  affords  a  double  gain  over 
that  yielding  the  Parmesan  cheese. 

Le  Fomaci:  here  a  road  branches 
off  on  the  rt.  to  Cassano  6! Adda  and 
Treviglio;  the  road  to  Bergamo  runs 
on  to  Vaprio,  in  a  beautiful  situation 
on  the  Adda:  the  country  araund 
is  studded  with  villas.  One  of  these, 
belonging  to  the  Duke  of  Melzi,  is  in- 
teresting on  account  of  its  containing 
a  remarkable  painting,  a  colossal  Vir- 
gin, now  extending  through  two  stories 
of  the  dwelling.  There  is  much  beauty 
in  the  figure,  and  it  has  been  attributed, 
upon  old  authority,  to  Leonardo  da 
Vinci ;  'yet  many  doubt  the  tradition, 
on  account  of  the  unusual  size. 

The  Villa  Castelbarco,  at  Moniste- 
rolo,  near  Vaprio,  will  be  worth  a  visit. 

Cross  the  Martesana  and  then  the 
Adda:  Vaprio  and  Ccmonica  are  only 
divided  by  the  river. 

1  Canmiica.  (Inn :  Albergo  de*  Tre 
Re.)  From  this  point  the  views  become 
very  beautiful.  Bergamo  is  seen  on  its 
hill,  crowned  by  its  domes  and  lofty 
towers ;  and  in  the  foreground  the 
landscape  is  of  exceeding  richness.  A 
short  way  above  Canonica  the  Brembo 
torrent  empties  itself  into  the  Adda. 

BoUiere. 

Oslo  di  Sotto. 

Grumdlo  del  Diana. 

1  Bergamo,    (See  Rte.  27.) 


(     285     ) 


SECTION    IV. 

VENETIAN  PEOVINCES.* 

1.  Territmy ;  Population. — 2,  Passports. — 2.  Monei/. — 4.  Weights  atid  Measures. 

— 5.  Posting. — 6.  JSaikvags, 

Routes. 


BOTTTE.  PAGE. 

29.  Pescliiera  to  Verona — Rail     -  288 

30.  Verona  to  Mantua^  by  Villa" 

franca — Rail    -         -         -  313 

31.  Verona  to  VenicCyhy  Caldiero^ 


KOUTE.  PAGE 

gnagOf  JEste,  Montagnana^ 
Monselice,  and  Ahano        -  418 
33.  Padua  to  the  Po,  by  Movigo  -  422 
31.  Venice  to  Trieste,  by  Treviso, 


Vtcenza,  and  Padua — Rail  325  |  Pordenone,    Casarsa,^    and 

32.  Mantua    to    Padua,  by  Le-         \  Udiiie — Rail     -        -        -  404 


PKELIMINARY  OBSERVATIONS. 

§  1.  Teeeitoby — Population. 

Under  the  name  of  the  Venetian  Provinces  are  included  all  the  possessions 
now  remaining  to  Austria  in  Italy.  They  embrace  the  territory  of  the  repubho 
of  Venice,  ceded  to  Austria  by  Napoleon  by  the  Treaty  of  Campo  Formio,  and 
confimied  by  the  treaty  of  Vienna ;  the  possessions  of  the  Dukes  of  Mantua  E. 
of  theMincio;  the  triangular  space  between  the  Lower  Mincio  and  the  Po, 
once  a  part  of  Lombardy;  and  some  small  enclavures  on  the  S.  of  the  Po, 
belonging  to  the  territory  of  Gronzaga,  retained  after  the  annexation  of  the 
Duchies  of  Parma  and  Modena,  and  of  the  Legation  of  Ferrara,  to  the  ItaHan 
kingdom  in  1860.  The  population  of  the  Austro-Italian  Provinces  scarcely 
reaches  2,500,000  inhab. 

§  2.  Passpoets. 

By  an  Imperial  Decree  of  Nov.  14, 1865,  passports  are  not  demanded  on  the 
Austrian  frontiers,  except  in  suspicious  cases,  British  subjects  bearing  Foreign 
Office  passports  are  now  permitted  to  enter  the  Austrian  dominions  without 
the  signature  of  an  Austrian  diplomatic  or  consular  agent. 

§  3.  Money. 

Money  calculations  are  rather  perplexing  m  consequence  of  payments  beuig 
made  in  two  currencies — ^in  Florins  and  Lire  Italiane.  The  Florin  and  Lira 
Austriaca,  or  third  of  the  florin,  are  those  now  used  in  all  official  and 
commercial  transactions. 

*  For  the  greater  convenience  of  the  traveller,  we  liave  introduced  hero  the  Auatiian  Provinces 
ol  Italy,  alUiough  fomiing  a  break  In  those  of  the  kingdom  of  Northern  Italy. 


286  V      4.   Weights  and  Measures,     5.  Posting,  Sect.  IV, 

The  following  are  the  comparative  average  values  of  these  coins : — 


Lira  Itallana,  or 
French  Franc. 

Lira  Anstriaca,  or 

Zwanzlger, 

1  of  a  Florin. 

1 
L.  Austrlache. 

1 

L.] 

[tal. 

Lir. 

1 
'  Cent. 

Lir. 

Cent. 

Lir. 

Cent. 

Llr. 

Cent. 

1 

—^ 

1 

19 

1 

— 

84 

2 

— 

2 

38 

2 

—        1 

1 

68 

3 

— 

3 

57 

3  or 

Florin.    ' 

2 

52 

4 

— 

4 

76 

4 

.^« 

3 

86 

5 

* 

5 

95 

5 

■                   1 

4 

20 

10 

"~"^ 

11 

90 

10 

- 

8 

40 

The  Florin  is  divided  into  3  Lire  Austriache  =  100  soldi  j  so  the  French 
franc  or  Italian  lira  is  =  to  40  soldi,  the  English  shilling  to  50,  and  the  lira 
Austriaca  to  83  French  or  Italian  centimes. 

§  4.  Weights  and  Meabiteks. 

Weights. — Although  the  metrical  division  is  now  generally  adopted  throughout 
the  Venetian  territory,  at  Venice  other  weights  and  measures  are  in  hahitual 
use.  The  pound,  by  which  all,  except  very  heavy  materials,  are  purchased,  is  the 
libbra,  peso  sottile  j  it  is  divided  into  12  oncie,  72  sazi,  or  1728  carati,  and  equals 
4650  English  grains  5  hence  1001b,  peso  sottile  equal  66'41b.  avoirdupois. 

§  5.  Posting. 

Owing  to  the  extension  of  railways  in  the  Austro-ItaUan  provinces,  there 
are  very  few  roads  comprised  in  this  volume  on  which  there  are  still  post- 
horse  stations :  we  insert  the  regulations  in  force,  preioising  that  the  Austrian 
post  is  equal  to  8^^  Enghsh  miles.  ^^^  ,. 

For  each  horse  per  post       -        -        •        -  3 

Postilion 1 

Hostler  for  each  pair  of  horses  per  post        -  0 

Calesse,  if  furnished  by  the  maestro  di  posta  0 

The  following  are  the  general  regulations : — The  postmaster  is  bound  to 
furnish  a  calessa  firom  station  to  station — very  rumble-tumble  concerns  they 
are — at  the  price  stated  above.  The  postilions  are,  of  course,  not  contented 
with  the  regulation  fee ;  usually,  if  there  are  two  horses,  you  pay  the  tariff  of  a 
third  horse  to  the  postilion,  but  they  always  grumble,  even  \S.  you  offer  them 
more  than  double ;  and  usually,  the  older  the  postilion  is,  the  less  likely  he 
is  to  be  satisfied. 

Carriages  are  divided  into  three  classes,  which,  with  their  load,  must  not 
exceed  the  following  weights,  all  calculated  according  to  the  Vienna  standard. 
100  pounds  Vienna  weight  =  123^  lbs.  avoirdp.  =56*01  kilogrammes. 

Species  of  Carriage.  Lbs.  of  Vienna  weight.    Horses. 

A.  of  the  lightest  build,  as  open  caliches  with  four  seats,  or 

half  open  with  two       -        -        -        -.        not  exceeding 

exceeding 

B.  of  a  mediimi  size,  as  close  carriages  with  two  seats,  and  haH 

closed  with  four,  or  with  a  small  head,  not  exceeding 

from  500  to 
exceeding 


c. 
16 

0 
30 
92 


600 

-     2 

600 

-    3 

• 

500 

-     2 

800 

-     3 

800 

•    4 

Venetun  Prov.         5.  Posting.     6.  Railways, 


287 


species  of  Carriage.  '  Lbs.  of  Vienna  weight.  Horses. 

0.  of  a  heavy  build,  as  carriages,  whether  with  two  or  four 

seats,  entirely  coyered  and  enclosed,  not  exceeding       600  -     3 

from  600  and  not  exceeding       800  -    4 

exceeding       800  -     6 

§  I.  In  calculating  the  weight,  the  passengers  are  reckoned  at  the  following 

rates : — 

Lbs.  of  Vienna  weight. 
An  indiyidual  of  twelve  years  and  upwards  •        -        -  100 

A  child  from  five  to  twelve  years  -         -        .        .  50 

Two  children,  imder  the  age  of  five  years      •        -        -  40 

A  single  child  of  five  years,  or  under,  is  not  reckoned. 

With  respect  to  the  ages  of  children,  the  declaration  of  the  traveller  suffices 
without  further  proof.    The  postilion  is  not  cialculated  in  the  weight  of  the  load, 

§  II.  The  luggage  is  reckoned  thus : — 

Lbs.  of  Vienna  weight. 
A  bundle,  a  carpet-bag,  and  an  imperial,  when  this  occupies  all 

the  top  of  a  covered  carriage  with  four  seats,  each  at         -  100 

An  imperial,  occupying  all  the  top  of  a  covered  carriage  with 
two  seats,  or  a  half-closed  carriage,  or  half  an  imperial,  &c., 

fastened  to  the  carriage,  each  at 50 

A  valise  or  portmanteau,  when  fastened  outside  the  carriage,  and 
2  ft.  long,  1^  wide,  not  more  (1  Vienna  ft.  =  12*45  inches 
Engl.),  each  at        -        -  -        -  50 

§  III.  Bags  or  boxes  for  caps  and  hats,  if  hung  on  the  outside,  or  any  par- 
cels or  small  bundles  placed  within  the  carriage,  are  not  reckoned. 

These  regulations  as  to  weight  look  troublesome  upon  paper,  but  they  are 
rarely  insisted  upon. 

The  following  table  may  assist  the  traveller  in  his  calculation  as  to  horses : — 


Post. 


1 

l| 
If 

2 

H 

^ 

2J 

o 
O 


2. 


A  list. 
I.    c. 


6 
7 
9 
11 
12 
14 
15 
17 
18 


32 
90 
48 
06 
64 
22 
80 
38 
96 


Ital. 
1.    c. 


5 

6 
8 
9 
11 
12 
13 
15 
16 


50 
88 
25 
63 
00 
38 


3. 


Aust. 
1.    c. 


9 
11 
14 
16 
18 
21 
751123 
13,26 


50 


28 


48 
85 
22 
59 
96 
33 
70 
07 
44 


Ital. 
I.  c. 


8 
10 
12 
14 
16 
18 
20 
22 
24 


25 
32 
38 
44 
50 
57 
63 
69 
75 


4. 


Aust. 
I.    c. 


12 
15 
18 
22 
25 
28 
31 
34 
37 


Ital. 
1.  c. 


64 
80 
96 
12 
28 
44 
60 
76 
92 


11 
13 
16 
19 
22 
24 
27 
30 
33 


00 
75 
50 
25 
00 
75 
50 
25 
00 


5. 


Aust. 
1.    c. 


15 
19 
22 
27 
31 
35 
39 
43 
47 


Ital. 
1.    c. 


8013 
7517 
7020 
65'24 
6027 
55,30 
50  34 
45,37 
40  41 


75 
19 
63 
07 
50 
94 
38 
82 
25 


6. 


Aust. 
1.  c. 


18 
23 
28 
33 
37 
42 
47 
52 
56 


Ital. 
1.  c. 


9616 


70 
44 
18 
92 
QQ 
40 
14 
88 


20 
24 
28 
33 
37 
41 
45 
49 


50 
63 
75 
88 
00 
13 
25 
38 
50 


§  6.  Railways. 

GDhe  Railways  at  present  opened  in  the  Austro-Italian  Provinces  are—the 
continuation  of  the  Great  Lombardo- Venetian  line  from  Peschiera  to  Venice  5 
the  fines  from  Verona  to  Mantua ;  from  Verona  to  the  Tyrol,  ending  at  Eolzano 
or  Botzen  j  and  from  Venice  to  XTdine  and  Trieste,  by  Treviso,  Conegliano,  and 
Pordenone,  and  thence  to  Laybach  and  Vienna  5  and  from  Padua  to  the  Po^ 
nearly  completed  as  far  as  Bovigo. 


288 


lioute  29. — Peschiera  to  Verona, 


Sect.  IV* 


EOUTES. 


EOUTE  29. 

l'£dCHIEEA  TO  VEllOKA— EAILWAY. 

Castel-nnovo 5  kil. 

Soinma  Campagna  .    . .    . .  12 
Verona  '..    . 26 

3  trains  daily.     26  kil.=16  Eng.  m. 

Leaving  the  Peschiera  Stat.,  the  road 
proceeds,  through  deep  cuttings  for 
4  miles,  to 

5  kil.  Castel-nuovo  Stat.,  situated  ^ 
m.  S.  of  the  village,  ahove  which  are  the 
ruins  of  a  mediaBval  fortress.  Castel- 
nuovo  was  sacked  and  burned  by  the 
Austrians  in  1848,  for  having  allowed 
itself  to  bo  occupied  by  one  of  the 
Lombard  free  corps,  which,  having 
landed  at  Lazise,  succeeded  in  getting 
between  Verona  and  Peschiera,  and  in 
destroying  the  powder  magazines  of 
the  latter  fortress :  only  two  houses 
and  the  church  remained  intact  after 
this  act  of  mihtary  vengeance.  [A  good 
road  leads  from  Castel-nuovo  to  Ponton 
on  the  Adige  by  Pastrengo,  by  wliich  the 
traveller  can  join  the  old  post-road  or 
the  rly.  to  the  Tyrol  without  entering 
Verona.]  The  village  of  Somma  Cam- 
pagna  is  in  a  high  position  on  the  1. ; 
after  leaving  it,  that  of  Custozza  is  seen 
about  2  m.  on  the  rt.,  celebrated  for  a 
very  sanguinary  action  in  1849,  between 
the  Austrians  and  the  Piedmontese,  in 
which  the  latter  were  worsted. 

7  m.  Somma  Canvpagna^  Stat.  A  good 
deal  of  deep  cutting  has  been  neces- 
sary in  carrying  the  railroad  between 
these  two  stations.  Prom  this  place 
there  is  a  gradual  descent  over  a  richly 
cultivated  district,  until  we  enter  the 
Plain  of  the  Adigc,  across  which  the 
railway  runs  to  the 

VERONA  STATION,  outside  the 
Porta  Nuova.  Omnibuses  convey 
passengers  to  the  different  liotcls  on 
the  arrival  of  cacli  train,  and    good 


I  broughams,  the  fare  in  which  to  any 
j  part  of  the  city  is  1  lira. 

8  m.  Vebona.  Inns :  Albergo  delle 
Due  Torri ;  very  comfortable,  the  best 
for  families ;  a  good  table- d'hdte  at  5 
o'clock,  5  fr. :  the  manager,  Luigi  Bel- 
lini, is  a  most  inteUigent  person. — La 
Torre  di  Londra;  small,  also  good, 
people  very  attentive  (May,  1865). 
Verona  is  now  the  point  from  which 
diverge  all  the  communications  be- 
tween Austrian  Italy  and  Germany, 
and  the  centre  of  all  military  move- 
ments in  the  Venetian  Provinces. 

Verona  now  contains  60,000  Inhab., 
not  including  its  very  large  garrison. 
From  its  vicinity  to  the  Alps  the  cli- 
mate is  somewhat  sharp,  but  healthy. 
Fruit  and  flowers  are  excellent,  as  may 
be  seen  in  the  Piazza  delle  Erbe  every 
morning.  The  city  is  divided  into  two 
unequal  portions  by  the  Adige.  The 
treaty  of  Luneville,  1801,  gave  the 
smaller  portion  on  the  1.  bank  to 
Austria,  the  remainder  to  the  Cisal- 
pine republic.  This  division  of  one 
city  occasioned  great  inconvenience  to 
the  inhabitants,  who,  in  crossing  the 
middle  arch  of  the  bridge,  entered  into 
a  foreign  territory ;  but  their  trouble 
soon  ended  by  the  French  getting  the 
whole.  The  site  of  Verona  has  been 
considered  as  the  finest  in  the  N.  of 
Italy.  Such  superlatives  are  always 
matters  of  fancy;  but  the  blue  hills 
and  mountains  beyond,  the  rushing 
stream,  and  the  finely  varied  landscape, 
dotted  with  villas,  surrounded  by 
groves,  in  which  the  tall  dark  cypress 
contrasts  with  the  other  trees,  deserve 
the  vivid  picture  which  they  have  re- 
ceived from  Bemi : — 

"  Hapido  fiume,  clie  d'alpcstra  vcnaj 
Impetnosamente  a  nui  discendi, 
^E  quella  terra  sovra  offo.*  altra  amena 
Per  mezzo,  a  guisa  di  Meandro,  fendi ; 
Quella  chedi  valor,  d'  iiigegno  e  piena. 
Per  cui  tu  con  piu  lume,  Italia,  splendi, 
Pi  cui  la  faraa  in  te  chiara  risuona, 
ICccc'lsa,  graxiosa,  alma  ^'^erona, 


hiiiillb 


1 1 


.>*^ 


0»     >  . 


Venetian  Pkov.         Route  29. —  Verona — Amphitheatre, 


289 


Terra  antica,  gentil,  mad  re,  e  natrice 
Di  spirti,  di  virtu,  di  discipline ; 
Sito  che  lieto  fanno  anzi  felice 
L'  amenissime  valli,  e  le  colli  no, 
Onde  ben  a  ragion  giudica  e  dice 
Per  questo,  e  per  1'  antiche  tue  ruine, 
Per  fa  tua  onda  altiera  che  la  parte, 
Qaei  che  1'  aguaglia  alia  citta  di  Marte." 

The  river  Adiffe,  called  JEtscIi  in  the 
German  Tyrol,  flows  through  the  city. 
It  is  crossed  hy  four  bridges,  and  turns 
numerous  floating  watemulls  moored 
across  the  stream.  The  floods  of  the 
Adige  are  tremendous.  One,  which 
took  place  in  the  13th  centy.,  is  com- 
memorated in  the  ancient  frescoes  of 
the  cathedral.  By  such  a  flood  in  1757 
the  Ponte  delle  Nave  was  entirely 
carried  away..  On  the  Slst  of  August, 
1845,  after  three  days'  hard  rain,  the 
greater  part  of  the  town  could  only  be 
traversed  in  boats. 

1  In  1822,  the  Congress  of  Verona, 
convened  chiefly  with  reference  to  the 
affairs  of  Spain,  was  held  in  Palazzo 
Castellanif  where  Prince  Mettemich 
resided  for  the  time.  The  Duke  of 
Wellington  occupied  Palazzo  di  Sam- 
boitifazi,  now  called  Vela;  the  Em- 
peror and  Empress  of  Austria  the 
Palazzo  Ilrhisti,  where  they  entertained 
the  members  in  a  dull,  contracted, 
lofty  saloon,  in  which  a  most  miserable 
picture  records  the  rendering  of  homage 
by  Hungarian  deputies  to  the  Kaiser. 

The  distant  aspect  of  "  Verona  la 
Degna^^  with  its  serrated  walls  and 
lofty  towers,  is  very  pecuHar ;  it  con- 
tains several  remarkable  objects. 

Of  these,  the  first  to  attract  the 
attention  of  the  traveller  is  the  Am- 
phitheatre. It  is  supposed  to  have  been 
built  between  the  years  81  and  117  of 
our  era,  consequently  contemporaneous 
with  the  Coliseum.  The  interior  is 
nearly  perfect,  which  it  .owes  to  the 
continiious  care  bestowed  upon  it. 
Most  of  the  other  Soman  amphi- 
theatres have  suffered  exceedingly  from 
having  been  converted  into  fortresses, 
as  at  Aries  and  Nismes,  or  considered 
as  quarries  for  materials,  as  the  Coh- 
seum.  The  outer  circuit  was  greatly 
damaged  by  an  earthquake  in  1184. 
The  ruined  portions  appear  to  have. 


been  carried  away  and  employed  on 
other  edifices,  but  the  mass  itself  was 
diligently    preserved.     By    a    statute 
passed  in   1228  it  was  enacted  that 
every  podest^  upon  takmg  office,  should 
spend  500  lire  upon  the  repairs  of  the 
Arena.      In  1475  penalties   were  de- 
creed against  any  one  who  should  re- 
move any  of  the  stone;    in  1545  a 
special  officer  was   appointed  to  take 
care  of  it ;  in   1568  a  voluntary  sub- 
scription was  raised  for  its  support ; 
and  in  1579  a  tax  was  imposed  for  its 
reparation.    Other  decrees  in  its  favour 
have  been  since  made ;   yet,  notwith- 
standing all  this  care,  4  arches  only  are 
preserved  of  the  outer  circuit,  which 
consisted  originally  of  72,  being  8  less 
than  in  the  Coliseum.     The  internal 
aspect  of  the  arena  is  complete :  and 
though  a  great  number  of  the  seats 
have  been  restored,  some  as  late  as 
1805,  yet,   the  operation  having  been 
performed   gradually,  the  restorations 
are  not  apparent.     The  greater   dia- 
meter of  the  Amphitheatre  is  511  ft. ; 
of  the  arena  262^  ft.    The  lesser  dia- 
meter of  the  Amphitheatre  is  404^  ft, ; 
and  of  the  arena  146  ft.    The  circum- 
ference is  1429^  ft.,  and  the  height  of 
what  remains  is,  from  the  original  pave- 
ment, 100  ft. ;  it  is  calculated  that  it 
could  have  contained  22,000  spectators. 
It  is  built  of  Ycrona  marble,  the  sub- 
structions and  vaultings  beneath  the 
seats  being  of  good  Boman  brickwork. 
"The  seats  continue  nearly  in  one  slope 
from  top  to  bottom,  nor  is  there  any  evi- 
dence that  they  were  divided  hjprcBcinC' 
tiones  (i.  e.  broader  steps,  leaving  a  pas- 
sage behind  the  seated  spectators)  into 
maenianay  or  stories,as  was  usual.  How- 
ever, immediately  above  the  podium  (the 
terrace  immediately  above  the  arena,  just 
wide  enough  to  contain  two  or  three 
ranges  of  moveable  seats)  is   a  wide 
space  which,  though  never  called  by  that 
name,  is  precisely  of  the  nature  of  a 
precinctio,  and  the  sixth  step  from  this 
is  very  narrow;   and  as  it  could  not 
be  used  as  a  seat,  the  back  of  the  step 
immediately   below  would   become   a 
means  of  communication :  it  is  uncer- 
tain, however,  whether  tliis  is  anything 


290 


Eoute  29. —  Verona — Amphitheatre — Gates.        Sect.  IV. 


more  than  a  bungling  restoration.*  The 
steps  now  existing  are  43,  each,  on  an 
average,  as  nearly  as  I  coidd  determine 
it,  16  inches  high  and  28  wide,  and 
sloping  two  inches  from  back  to  front. 
I  will  not  undertake  to  say  that  this 
latter  circumstance  arises  from  any- 
thing but  the  settlement  of  the  work ; 
yet  I  think,  from  the  ancient  steps 
which  remain,  that  these  were  origin- 
ally laid  with  a  small  slope,  to  throw 
off  the  rain-water.     The  part  which 
still  exists  of  the  outer  circuit  of  the 
amphitheatre  is  unconnected  with  the 
steps,  and,  at  the  upper  part,  is  en- 
tirely detached  from  the  rest  of  the 
fabric  j  so  that,  if  we  have,  therefore, 
no  direct  proof  of  the  existence  of  a 
wooden  gallery,  there  is  at  least  no 
evidence  against  it.    The  building  is 
much  larger  than  that  at  Nismes." — 
Woods.    So  much  remains  perfect  of 
the  corridors  and  entrances    by  the 
vomitories,  that  a  very  clear  idea  of 
the  arrangements  of  an  ancient  amphi^ 
theatre  may  be  obtained.     Some  por- 
tions of  the  underground  arrangements 
of  the  arena    have  been  cleared  out 
within  a  few  years,  but  these  do  not 
afford  any  sufficient  data  for  solving 
the  much-debated  questions  respecting 
the  object  of  these  substructions.    The 
numbers  sculptured  on  the  arches  of 
the  outer  circuit  to  guide  the  spec- 
tators where  to  present  their  tickets 
remain  quite  distinct — LXIIII.  LXV. 
LXVI.  LXVII.    Many  of  the  arcades 
are  now  occupied  by  smiths,  farriers, 
and   small  tradesmen.     The    interior 
is  frequently  used  for  exhibitions   of 
horsemanship,  dancing  on   the    tight 
rope,  fireworks,  &c.,  &c.    In  the  13th 
century  it  was  used  for  judicial  com- 
bats ;   and  it  is  recorded  of  some  of 
the  Visconti,  that  they  received  25  Ve- 
netian lire  for  every  duel  fought  there. 
The  JRoman   Theatre    is  on  the  1. 
bank  of  the  Adige;    its  destruction 
began  at  a  very  early  period.    A  cu- 
rious   decree    of    Kmg    Berengarius, 

*  Tliere  can  be  little  doubt  that  this  narrow 
step  is  an  imperfect  restoration,  as  it  is  car- 
ried only  half  vay  ronnd  the  amphitheatre. — 
P.  C.  H, 


dated  895,  describes  it  as  dilapidated, 
and  permits  all  persons  to  demolish 
the  ruinous  portions  j  yet  much  of  it 
was  standing  as  late  as  the  16th  cen- 
tury, and  Caroto,  the  painter,  delighted 
himself  with  drawing  and  studying  its 
remains.     There  is  now  little  above 
ground,  excepting  fragments  principally 
incorporated  in  other  buildings  (he* 
tween  the  base  of  the  hill  S.  Fietro  and 
the  Adige) ;  but  numerous  fragments 
of  sculpture  have  been  dug  up  about  it. 
Besides    the  amphitheatre,  Yerona 
still  contains  some  remarkable  monu- 
ments of  the  imperial  age.     The  arch  . 
commonly  called  the  Porta  dei  BoT' 
sarif  like  the  Roman  gates  of  Treves, 
of  Autun,  and  that  which  once  stood 
at  Chester,  is  double.    From  the  traces 
of  the  inscriptions  in  the  friezes,   it 
appears  to  have  been  built  under  the 
Emperor  Q-alhenus,  together  with  the 
walls  of  the  city  in  which  it  was  in- 
serted, about  the  year  265.    The  style 
of  the  architecture  is  very  remarkable  ; 
pillars  with  spiral  flutings,  small  arches 
or  windows  between  columns  and  sur- 
rounded by  pediments,  and  numerous 
other  anomalies,  rendering  it  a  con- 
necting link  between  the  style  of  the 
Antomnes  and  that  of  the  darkest  por- 
tion of  the  middle  ages.     The  inscrip- 
tions were  composed  of  bronze  letters 
in  relief,  fastened  to  the  stones  as  in  the 
frieze  of  the  Maison  Carree  at  Nismes, 
and  the  words  have  been  deciphered  by 
the  marks  which  they  have  left  behind. 
But  many  antiquaries  are  of  opinion  that 
Gallienus  merely  caused  the  gateway  to 
be  fronted  and  ornamented,  and  that  the 
mass  of  the  building,  the  2  lower  arches 
in  particular,  belongs  to  an  earUer  age. 
Be  this  as  it  may,  the  Porta  dei  Borsaii, 
a  monument  1600  years  old,  stands  in 
full  solidity  athwart  the  crowded  street 
of  a  living  city. 

Another  fine  Eoman  gateway  is  called 
the  Arco  de*  Leoni:  this,  however,  is 
much  less  perfect  than  the  Porta  dei 
Borsari.  It  is  in  better  taste,  and 
probably  of  about  the  same  age. 

Verona  exhibits  a  remarkable  series 
of  fortifications  J  of  various  periods.  The 
earliest  are  those  buUt  by  the  Emperor 


Venetian  Prov.      ttoute  29. —  Veivna — fortifications. 


291 


Gallienufi,  of  which  the  Porta  del  Bor' 
sari  and  the  Arco  di  Gam,  pulled  down 
in   1805,  were  2   of  the  gates:   large 
masses  of  this  wall  remain,  but  generally 
incorporated  in  other  buildings.    The 
most  apparent  portion  is  in  a  lane  called 
the  Viottolo  di  San  Matteo.    To  these 
imperial   walls    succeed,   in  point    of 
date,   those   attributed  to  Theodoric, 
and  probably  not  much  later  than  his 
time.   They  are  of  great  extent,  built  of 
alternate  triplets  of  courses  of  stone 
and  brick  j  that  is  to  say,  three  of  each, 
the  bricks  placed  in  what   is  called 
herring-bone  fashion,  also  employed  in 
the  churches  of  this  city,  and  doubt- 
less imitated  from  this  structure.    An- 
other line  is  popularly  attributed  to 
Charlemagne:    that    is    beyond    the 
Adige.     ^e  fourth  was  begun  by  the 
ScaUgers,    who    crowned    them  with 
the  forked  battlements  which  render 
them   so    picturesque,    especially  the 
part  beyond  the  Adige,  and  the  towers 
which  rise  upon  the  bold  and  precipi- 
tate hills  add  much  to  the  beauty  of  the 
town.     These  last  walls  are  built  upon 
those  of  Theodoric.    Lastly  are  the  out- 
works of  the  Scaligerian  walls,  begun  by 
the  Venetians  about   1520,  according 
to  the  plans  of  several  engineers.    Ulti-. 
mately  they  were  completed  by,  or  at 
least  after  the  plans  of,  the  celebrated 
SanmicheU  (born  at  Verona  1484),  who 
may  be  considered  as  the  father  of  the 
science  of  modern  fortification.    Square 
and  circular  bastions  had  previously 
been  introduced :  of  the  latter  kind  a 
very  remarkable  one  is  yet  subsisting, 
called  the  Bastione  Boccare^  containing 
within  it  a  vast  bomb-proof  casemate, 
of  which  the  vault  is  supported  by  a 
central  pillar.     But  a  circular  bastion 
can  never  be  perfectly  flanked  j  and  San- 
micheU, considering  this  defect,  intro- 
duced the  triangular  and  pentangular 
bastion  j  and  the  Bastione  della  Mad- 
dalena  of  this  city  was  the  first  specimen 
of  the  defence  which  has  become  the 
basis  of  the  present  system  of  fortifica- 
tion.    SanmicheU  also  not  only  flanked 
the  curtain,  but  aU  the  fosse  to  the  next 
bastion,  the  covered  way,  and  the  glacis. 
The  mystery  of  this  art  consisted  in 


defending  every  part  of  the  enclosure 
by  the  flank  of  a  bastion. 

The  modem  fortifications  of  Verona 
are  amongst  the  most  remarkable  works 
of  miUtary  engineering  in  Europe. 
Since  1815,  when  the  city  devolved  to 
Austria,  every  efibrt  has  been  made  to 
render  it  a  stronghold  of  the  first  order, 
but  especiaUy  since  the  outbreaks  in 
1849,  when  it  became  not  only  the  miU- 
tary but  the  civU  capital  of  the  Aus- 
trian possessions  in  Italy.  Not  only 
have  its  former  walla  been  greatly 
strengthened,  but  a  very  extensive  sys- 
tem of  detached  forts  erected  on  every 
assailable  point  in  its  vicinity,  so  as  to 
render  it  impregnable  j  every  summit 
commanding  the  town  has  been  forti- 
fied, extensive  barracks  erected  within 
the  fortifications,  and  a  new  arsenal  on 
an  immense  scale  formed  in  the  plain 
opposite  that  founded  by  the  ScaUgers. 
Verona  has  thus  become  the  key  to  the 
Austrian  power  in  Italy,  with  its  com- 
munications easily  maintained  by  the 
vaUey  of  the  Adige  with  Germany. 
It  can  at  present  accommodate  a 
garrison  of  20,000  men,  and  it  is 
beUeved  could  only  faU  after  a  pro- 
longed blockade,  before  an  army  greatly 
exceeding  the  number  of  its  defenders. 

The  fortification  gates  designed  by 
SanmicheU  yet  remain.  Porta  Stuppa^ 
or  del  Palio,  is  near  the  centre  of  the 
line  of  the  fortifications  on  the  W. 
and  S.  sides  of  the  city.  "In  this 
gate  the  mode  in  which  SanmicheU 
combined  pure  and  beautiful  architec- 
ture with  the  requisites  caUed  for  in 
fortification  may  be  seen  displayed  to 
great  advantage.  It  is  an  instance  of 
his  wonderful  ingenuity  and  taste." — 
Owilt.  This  gate  was  so  caUed  jfirom 
the  game  of  the  Pallone,  which  used  to 
be  played  near  it.  Vasari  terms  this 
gate  a  miracle  of  architecture. 

PortaNuova. — Through  which  passes 
the  road  to  Mantua.  "  This  gate  has 
great  architectural  merit.  It  is  a  square 
edifice,  supported  within  by  a  number 
of  piers  of  stone,  with  enclosures  or 
apartments  for  the  guards,  artiUery, 
&c.  The  proportions  as  a  whole  are 
pleasing.     It  Is  of  the  Doric  order,  de- 


292 


Eoute  29. —  Verona — Piazza  delle  Erie,         Sect.  IV. 


void  of  all  extraneous  ornament,  solid, 
strong,  and  suitable  to  the  purposes  of 
the  building. — For  beauty,  however, 
this  gate  is  not  equal  to  that  of  del 
Palio." —  Gioilt,  The  Porta  Nuova  has 
been  much  injured  as  regards  its  archi- 
tectural beauty,  by  enlarging  the  side 
entrances,  rendered  necessary  for  the 
traffic  to  one  of  the  railway  stations, 
which  is  just  outside  it. 

Piazza  del  Signori.  Here  are  the 
palaces  formerly  inhabited  by  the  Sea- 
ligeri,  the  lords  of  Verona,  which  upon 
their  expulsion  became  the  seats  of  the 
municipal  government.  In  the  centre 
stands  a  colossal  statue  of  Dante, 
erected  on  the  occasion  of  his  sexcen- 
tenary anniversary-  (May  14,  1865)  ;  it 
is  by  a  native  sculptor,  and  a  good  work 
of  art.  The  poet  stands  looking  to- 
wards the  house  in  w^hich  he  was  so 
hospitably  received  in  his  exile  by  Can 
Grande  della  Scala,  as  described  by 
him  in  the  beautiful  lines  of  the  Inferno. 
The  name  of  Dante  has  been  given  to 
the  street  leading  out  of  the  Piazza. 
The  finest  edifice  in  this  square  is 

The  Palazzo  del  Consiglio,  in  the 
mixed  style  of  the  15th  centy.,  pro- 
bably built  by  Fra  Giocondo.  His 
portrait  exists  in  bas-relief  on  the  build- 
ing close  to  the  Volto  delle  foggie,  Fr^ 
Q-iocondo  (d.  1499)  w^as  an  excellent 
scholar  as  well  as  an  architect.  He 
was  the  first  who  gave  a  correct 
edition  of  Vitruvius.  He  discovered 
at  Paris  the  letters  of  Plinv.  He 
was  also  an  exceedingly  able  engraver. 
Coupled  windows  fuid  arches  sup- 
ported upon  columns,  pilasters  with 
elegant  arabesques,  .in  a  style  similar 
to  the  Colleoni  chapel  of  Bergamo, 
adorn  other  portions,  all  full  of  the 
merit  of  the  cinque-cento  style.  The 
Annunciation  in  bronze,  in  front  of 
this  palace,  is  a  fine  work  of  Gio- 
vanni Campagna.  This  building  is 
surmounted  by  statues  of  those  whom 
Yerona  claims  as  her  own;  and  all 
celebrated  men  are  claimed  as  Veronese, 
who  were  bom  within  the  municipal 
jurisdiction.  They  are  as  follow : — 
Pliny  the  younger ^  though  stoutly  con- 
tested by  Como,  and  apparently  upon 


good  grounds ;  for,  though  he  speaks 
in  his  epistle  of  "  our  Verona,"  this 
probably  refers  only  to  his  rights  of 
citizenship  in  the  city. — Cornelius 
Nepos. — Macer,  the  author  of  the  poem 
upon  the  qualities  and  poisons  of  herbs 
and  serpents. — i.  Vetruviug  Cerdo. — 
But,  above  all,  Catullus,  who  reflected, 
as  much  credit  upon  Verona  as  Virgil 
did  upon  Mantua  : — 

*'  Mantua  Virgilio  gaudet,  Verona  CatuUo." 

UviD.  Amor,  iii.  el.  15,  1. 7, 
"  Tantnm  magna  suo  debet  Verona  Catullo, 
Quantum  parva  suo  Mantua  Vii^ilio." 

Mart.  xiv.  ep.l95« 

Of  the  modem  period,  and  on  the 
Volto  delle  foggie,  is  Fracastoro^ 
equally  eminent  as  a  poet  and  a  physi- 
cian, but  who,  unfortunately,  chose 
disease  as  the  subject  of  liis  didactic 
poem :  he  is  one  of  the  three  great 
masters  of  modem  Latin  poetry,  Vida 
and  Sannazaro  being  the  other  two ; 
and  Hallam  thinks,  though  Vida  ex- 
celled in  the  structure  of  his  verse,  yet 
that  Fracastorius  was  the  greatest  poet 
of  the  three.  And,  lastly,  on  the  side 
towards  the  Piazza  delle  Erbe,  stands 
Scipione  Maffei,  the  historian  of  bis 
native  city. 

The  two  palaces  on  the  opposite  side 
of  the  Piazza,  now  occupied  by  the  law 
courts  and  public  offices,  were  built  by 
Mastino  (1272),  and  Alberto  della  Scala 
his  son  ;  but  having  been  several  times 
re-modernised,  no  traces  remain  of  their 
ancient  splendour,  of  Giotto's  frescoes, 
or  of  where  once  lived  the  "  Altissimo 
poet  a"  during  his  sojourn  at  the  court 
of  the  Scaligers.  The  Campanile  of 
the  Piazza  dei  Signori  is  a  magnificent, 
lofty,  and  simple  unbroken  piece  of 
brickwork,  nearly  300  feet  high. 

Communicating  with  the  Piazza  dei 
Signori  on  the  S.W.  side  is  the  Piazza 
delle  JSrhe,  or  vegetable-market,  which 
was  the  Foram  in  the  repubUcan  times 
of  Verona,  and  contains  many  old  and 
picturesque  buildings  connected  with 
its  history.  The  smaU  open  tribune  near 
the  market-cross  occupies  the  place 
of  an  older  building  to  wliioh  the 
newly  elected  Capitano  del  Popolo  of 
the  Free  City,  after  having  heard  mass 


Venetian  Prov.  Ete,  29. —  Veivna — Monuments  of  the  Scdligers.   293 


at  the  cathedral,  was  conducted,  and 
ill  which,  after  he  had  addressed  the 
people,  he  was  inyested  with  the  insignia 
of  office.  In  after-times  the  sentences 
of  condemned  criminals  were  pro- 
neunced  from  this  tribune.  Proclama- 
tions were  made  from  it,  and  debtors 
were  here  compelled  to  submit  to  a 
humiliating  punishment.  If  the  foun- 
tain, in  the  centre  of  the  Piazza,  was 
first  erected  by  King  Berengarius  in 
916,  it  was  restored  and  provided  with 
an  additional  supply  of  water  by  Can- 
signorio,  the  ninth  ruler  of  the  Scaliger 
family,  in  1368.  The  same  Cansignorio 
erected  the  tower  which  is  seen  at  the 
further  end  of  the  square,  and  placed 
in  it  the  first  clock  erected  at  Verona. 
Tlie  building  on  one  of  the  sides  of  the 
Piazza,  with  arcades  and  pointed  win- 
dows, is  an  Exchange,  called  the  Casa 
dei  Mercanti,  and  was  built  for  that 
purpose,  by  Alberto  della  Scala,  in  1301. 
On  it  is  a  good  statue  of  the  Virgin,  by 
Campagna.  The  pillar  at  the  end  of 
the  Piazza  was  set  up  in  1524  by  the 
Venetians,  to  whom  Verona  was 
then  subject,  to  support  the  lion  of  St. 
Mark.  The  pillar  consists  of  a  single 
block  of  Veronese  marble.  The  name 
of  the  architect,  as  may  still  be  read 
on  the  base,  was  Michael  Leo.  The 
bronze  Hon  was  thrown  down  when 
the  republic  of  Venice  expired  in 
1799.  At  the  end  of  the  Piazza  near 
this  pillar  is  the  Palazzo  Mafiei  (now 
IVesa),  once  the  residence  of  the  patri- 
cian family  of  which  the  historian  of 
Verona  was  a  member.  It  is  a  highly 
enriched  specimen  of  the  Italian  style 
of  the  17th  centy.  The  fronts  of 
several  of  the  more  considerable 
houses  in  this  Piazza  are  decorated 
with  frescoes. 

Near  the  Piazza  dei  Signori  are  the 
Torrths  of  the  Scaligers.  These  sin- 
gular monuments  stand  close  to  the 
church  of  Santa  Maria  V  Antica. 
They  are  in  a  small  churchyard  en- 
closed by  a '  beautiful  iron  railing  or 
trellis-work,  consisting  of  open  quatre- 
foils,  in  the  centre  of  some  of  which  is 
the  scala,  or  ladder,  the  armorial  bear- 
ings of  the  family.    The  origin  of  the 


fomily  of  the  Scaligers,  or  more  properly 
of  the  Delia  Scalar,  is  not  known.  We 
find  them  at  Verona  in  1035.  In  1257 
two  brothers,  Bonifacio  and  Frederico 
della  Scala,  of  the  patrician  order,  were 
beheaded  by  Eccelino  da  Komano.  Their 
fate  first  gave  the  name  a  place  in  history. 
In  1261,  after  the  death  of  Eccelino, 
the  unanimous  voice  of  the  people  of  Ve- 
rona, then  a  free  town,  raised  Mastino 
della  Scala  to  the  office  of  "  Capitano 
del  Popolo."  He  had  been  a  soldier 
of  fortune  in  the  army  of  the  tyrant. 
He  governed  Verona  wisely  and  mo- 
derately for  15  years.  After  escaping* 
several  state  conspiracies,  he  was  killed 
by  some  of  the  members  of  a  disaffected 
family,  who  considered  that  he  had 
aggrieved  them  by  delaying  the  punish- 
ment of  anofiender  against  their  honour 
(1277).  This  assassination  took  place 
under  the  archway  in  the  Piazza  dei 
Signori;  which  retains  from  that  cir- 
cumstance the  name  of  "  il  volto  bar- 
baro"  to  the  present  day. 

The  tomb  of  Mastino,  as  it  now 
exists,  is  a  plain  sarcophagus,  orna- 
mented only  with  a  cross.  The  canopy 
which  covered  it  has  been  destroyed, 
and  the  stones  employed  for  paving  the 
church,  whilst  the  sarcophagus  itself 
was  afterwards  appropriated  by  a  mem- 
ber of  the  Nogarola  family.  The  ori- 
ginal inscription  is,  however,  presented. 

Mastino  was  succeeded  by  his  bro- 
ther Alberto  I.,  who,  during  24  years, 
kept  the  turbulent  factions  in  order, 
and  sowed  the  seeds  of  commercial 
prosperity.  These  two  superior  men 
were  the  founders  of  the  greatness  of 
their  house.  Alberto,  who  had  served 
as  Podest^  of  Mantua,  was  exceedingly 
esteemed  and  loved  for  his  pacific 
virtues;  and  he  was  installed  amidst 
the  shouts  of  "  Viva  Alberto,  assoluto 
oggi  e  per  sempre ;"  and  if  any  portion 
of  the  legal  power  of  the  old  common- 
wealth had  still  existed,  it  now  wholly 
expired.    Alberto  died  in  1301. 

A  sarcophagus  standingon  the  ground, 
without  inscription,  is  attributed  to 
Alberto  by  immemorial  tradition.  Upon 
it  is  sculptured  the  Signore,  riding  in 
full  state,  with  sword  in  hand. 


294 


Ete.  29, —  Verona — TheScaligers — Cangrande,        Sect.  IV. 


To  Alberto  succeeded,  in  1301,  bis 
second  son,  BartolommeOy  a  gentle  and 
bumane  prince,  who  died  in  1304.  In  bis 
time  (in  1302)  lived  Romeo  de'  Mon- 
teccbi,  and  Giulietta  de'  Cappelletti,  or 
de*  Capelli,  immortalized  by  Sbakspeare. 

Upon  tbe  deatb  of  Bartolommeo, 
Alboino  I.  was  called,  by  acclamation 
to  tbe  supreme  autbority.  Henry  of 
Luxembm'ff  was  tben  prosecuting  bis 
plans  for  tbe  re-establisbment  of  tbe 
imperial  prerogative;  and  Alboino  in 
1311,  surrendering  bis  autbority  as 
Capitano  del  Popolo,  received  it  back 
•from  the  Emperor  as  Imperial  Vicar  in 
Verona  j  a  concession  by  which  the 
dignity  was  confirmed  to  the  family. 
Alboino,  who  bad  been  originally 
intended  for  the  church,  was  not  well 
able  to  sustain  the  government,  and  be 
called  in  the  assistance  of  bis  brother, 
Francesco,  better  known  by  the  name 
Can  Grandey  who  was  associated  with 
him  by  the  Emperor  Henry  VII.  as 
joint  vicar  of  the  empire.  Can- 
grande  was  a  GrbibeUine  in  heart  and 
soul ;  and,  whilst  be  acquired  the  pos- 
session of  Vicenza,  Padua,  Feltre,  Bel- 
luno,  and  Bassano,  by  force  or  policy, 
the  grant  of  the  vicarial  powers  gave 
a  legitimate  tenure  to  the  dominions 
which  he  had  thus  obtained. 

Tbe  court  of  Cangrande  was  the 
most  magnificent  of  the  age  in  Italy, 
and  exhibited  a  combination  of  military 
splendour  and  profuse  hospitality  and 
liberaUty  to  the  stranger,  and  en- 
couragement to  literature.  His  palace 
became  the  refuge  for  all  who,  enter- 
taining his  pohtical  opinions,  had  in 
anywise  subjected  themselves  to  per- 
secution J  and  it  was  here  that  Dante 
found  an  asylum,  having  been  first 
received  by  Alboino.  Cacciaguida  fore- 
tells to  Dante  his  retreat,  and  describes 
the  Court  of  Verona,  and  charaeter  of 
Cangrande,  in  these  lines : — 

**  Lo  primo  tuo  rifugio,  e  il  primo  ostello 
Sara  la  cortesia  del  gran  Lombardo 

Che  in  su  la  Scala  porta  11  santo  nccello ; 
Ch'avra  in  te  si  beni<;no  rigaardo 

Che  del  fare  e  del  chieder,  tra  voi  due, 

Fia  primo  quel  che  tra  gli  altri  e  piu  tardo. 
Con  lui  vedrai  colui  che  irapresso  fue, 

Nascendo,  si  da  questa  stella  forte, 

Che  notabili  fien  1'  opere  sue. 


Non  86  ne  sono  aneor  le  genti  accorte 
Per  la  novella  etk ;  che  pur  nove  anni 
Son  queste  ruote  intomo  di  lui  torte. 

Ma  pria  che'l  Guasco  V  alto  Arrigo  ingannl 
"^  Parran  faville  del  la  sua  virtute 
In  non  curar  d'  argento,  ne  d'  afianni. 

Le  sue  magnificenze  conoaciute 
Saranno  ancora  si,  che  i  s'uoi  nimici 
Non  ne  potran  tener  le  linuue  mute. 

A  lui  t'  aspetta,  ed  a  suoi  beneGci : 
Per  lui  Ga  trasmutata  molla  gente, 
Cambiando  condizion  ricchi  e  mendici ; 
E  porterane  scritto  nella  mente 
Di  lui,  ma  nol  dirai.''— Parac/tso, XTii.  55,  92. 

"  Thy  first  retreat, — first  refuge  fSrom  despair, — 
Shall  be  the  mighty  Lombard's  courtesy. 
Whose  arms  the  eagle  on  &  ladder  bear. 

His  looks  on  thee  so  kindly  shall  be  cast, 
That  asking  and  conceding  shall  chiinge 

place; 
And  that,  wont  first  to  be,'t\vixt  you  be  last. 

With  him  shall  one  be  found,  who,  at  his  birth. 
Was  by  this  ardent  star  so  fraught  with  grace. 
His  deeds  of  valour  shall  display  his  worth. 

Not  yet  his  virtue  by  the  world  is  known. 
So  tender  is  his  age  ;  for  scarce  nine  years 
Around  himhave  these  rolling  circles  Bown  ; 

But  ere  the  Gascon's  artiQce  deceive 
Great  Hi^nry,  he,  all  sordid  hopes  and  fears 
Despising,  shall  a  glorious  name  achieve. 

His  deeds  magnificent  shall  still  proclaim 
His  praise  so  loudly  that  his  very  foes 
Shall  be  compell'd  to  celebrate  his  fame. 

Look  thou  to  his  beneficence ;  for  he 
Of  fortunes  in  such  manner  shall  dispose, 
Rich  shall  be  poor,  and  poor  exalted  be. 

Stamp  in  thy  mind  these  words  of  prophecy. 
But  be  they  not  divulged." 

Wrioht*»  Dante. 

Can  G^rande,  or  the  Great  Dog,  died 
in  1329.  Many  conjectures  have  been 
made  to  account  for  bis  strange  nick> 
name. 

The  tomb  of  Cangrande  I.  forms  a 
species  of  portal  to  the  church  of  Sta. 
M.  Antica.  It  is  composed  of  three 
stories ;  columns  support  it ;  upon  the 
sarcophagus  the  Signore  is  extended  in 
Jiis  peaceful  robes,  girt  with  his  sword : 
above,  on  a  pyramid,  is  the  equestrian 
statue  of  the  warrior,  in  full  armour. 
The  sarcophagus  rests  upon  figures  of 
mastiff  dogs  supporting  the  sliield 
charged  with  the  ladder,  the  armorial 
bearing  of  the  family  of  La  Scala ;  and 
the  mastiff's  head  equally  appears  as 
the  crest  of  the  helmet. 

Cangrande  was  succeeded  by  Alberto 
II.,  his  nephew,  the  sixth  della  Scala 
who  ruled  Verona.  The  seventh  was 
Mastino  II.,  the  nephew  of  Alberto. 
With  him  commenced  the  decline  of  liis 
house ;  and  from  bis  time  the  history 


Vejjbtian  Prov.    Rte.  29. —  Verona — Picture  Gdlery. 


295 


of  the  family,  instead  of  exhibiting 
statesmen  and  heroes,  becomes  a  me- 
lancholy and  revolting  picture  of  mis- 
fortune and  crime.  Mastino  II.  was 
vain,  weak,  and  unprincipled.  He  was 
BUPTOunded  by  a  brilHant  court:  Tre* 
viso,  Vicenza,  Bassano,  Brescia,  Parma, 
Reggio,  and  Lucca,  all  acknowledged 
him  as  their  lord;  and  he  had  won  Padua 
from  the  powerfulfamily  of  the  Carraras. 
Having  abandoned  the  imperial  party, 
he  was  fixed  upon  by  Pope  Benedict 
XII.  as  the  head  of  the  league  or 
alliance  of  the  Guelphs  against  the 
Viscontis,  the  leaders  of  the  Ghibel- 
lines.  But  he  lost  several  of  the  most 
important  of  the  possessions  which 
had  been  united  under  his  authority. 
He  died  in  1351. 

The  tomb  of  Mastino  II.,  at  one 
corner  of  the  churchyard,  also  -  exhi- 
bits the  double  effigy  ;  the  equestrian 
warrior  on  the  pyramid,  and  the  recum- 
bent sovereign  on  the  sarcophagus. 

The  eighth  ruler,  Cangrande  II., 
who  built  the  Castel  Vecchio,  and 
the  great  adjoining  bridge  over  the 
Adige,  after  a  troubled  reign  of  eight 
years,  was  murdered  by  his  own  bro- 
ther. Can  Signorio,  1359 :  and  it  shows 
into  what  a  demoralised  state  Italy  must 
then  have  fallen,  when  we  find  that 
such  a  crime  did  not  prevent  the  per- 
pretator  of  it  from  succeeding  to  the 
government.  He  committed  a  second 
fratricide  on  his  deathbed,  the  crime 
being  instigated  by  his  desire  of  pre- 
serving the  succession  in  his  own 
descendants,  which  he  feared  might  be 
endangered  if  Paolo  Alboino,  another 
brother,  had  been  suffered  to  survive 
him.  Next  to  ensuring  the  inherit- 
ance of  Verona  to  his  sons,  his  most 
earnest  passion  in  his  latter  days  (he 
died  in  X375)  was  the  erection  of  his 
most  sumptuous  mausoleum. 
.  The  tomb  of  Can  Signorio,  which 
forms  four  stories,  also  surmounted  by 
an  equestrian  statue,  is  exceedingly 
elaborate.  The  plan  is  hexagonal; 
and  6  Corinthianised  G-othic  columns 
support  the  lower  stoiy.  The  base- 
ment is  smrounded  by  an  iron  trel- 
lis, of  richer  pattern  than  that  of  the 


rest  of  the  cemetery.  Upon  the  pilas- 
ters which  support  it  are  the  six  war- 
rior-saints, St.  Quirinus,  St.  Yalentine, 
St.  Martin,  St.  George,  St.  Sigismund, 
and  St.  Louis.  Beneath  the  gable  of 
the  third  story  are  allegorical  figures 
of  virtues  :  Faith,  with  the  star  upon 
her  breast;  Prudence,  Charity,  and 
three  others.  The  figure  is  recumbent 
upon  a  sumptuous  sarcophagus.  An 
inscription,  in  Gothic  letters,  preserves 
the  name  of  Bonino  di  Campilione, 
who  was  both  the  sculptor  and  the 
architect  of  this  sumptuous  pile. 

These  tombs  stand  in  the  old  ceme-*" 
tery  of  Sta.  Maria  Antica,  wliich  had 
been  the  parish  ch.,  the  family  burial- 
place  of  the  Scahgers  before  they  rose 
to  power.  The  monuments  are  of  white 
marble,  in  a  style  which  is  a  mixture  of 
the  Pointed  and  the  Lombard.  There 
are  four  other  sarcophagi  of  the  Scali- 
gers  in  this  cemetery,  of  the  very  early 
part  of  the  14th  centy.,  two  belonging 
probably  to  Alberto  (ob.  1301)  and  to 
his  son  Bartolommeo  (ob.  1304)* 

Pinacoteca,  Museo  Cimco,  or  the  Pec- 
ture  Gallertfy  formerly  in  the  Pa- 
lazzo del  Consiglio,  has  been  removed 
to  the  Palazzo  Pompei  alia  Victoria, 
in  the  Via  di  Porta  al  Campo  Marzo, 
facing  the  Adigejand  immediately  below 
the  Ponte  alle  Navi,  the  lowest  of  the 
bridges  on  the  river.  The  palace, 
a  handsome  edifice,  the  front  con- 
sisting of  a  Tuscan  or  rustic  base- 
ment, surmounted  by  an  elegant  Doric 
portico,  was  bequeathed  by  its  last 
o^vner  to  his  native  town  a  few  years 
since  for  its  present  purpose.  Strangers 
are  admitted  on  appHcation  to  the  cus- 
tode,  who  wUl  of  course  expect  a  fee. 
There  is  a  very  fair  printed  catalogue. 
The  several  paintings  are  arranged  in  a 
handsome  suite  of  apartments  forming 
the  upper  floor ;  in  the  lower  one,  are 
a  series  of  casts  from  Canova*s  principal 
works,  bequeathed  by  the  Marquis 
Pindemonte  ;  a  very  interesting  collec- 
tion of  fossil  plants,  and  of  fishes,  from 
Monte  Bolca,  formed  by  the  late  Pro- 
fessor Massolongo;  several  Etruscan 
and  Boman  antiquities,  forming  the 
collection  of  Count  Verita,  &e. ;  and  * 


29G 


lloute  29. —  Verona — Picture  Galki^, 


Sect.  IV 


PINACJOTECA,  OR  PICTURE  GALLERY", 
TERONA. 


a.  Entrance  to  Gallery  from  stairs. 
h,  c.  Facade  overlooking  the  Adige. 
d.  Great  court  of  palace. 
I  to  XV.  Different  Halls  of  Pictures. 

the  Vestibule  the  great  Bell  formerly 
in  the  tower  of  the  Piazza  delle  Erbe, 
and  which  was  cast  iii  1370. 

The  paintings,  cliiefly  by  artists 
of  the  Veronese  school,  and  rarely  to 
be  met  with  elsewhere,  are  just  such 
as  will  particularly  interest  the  artistic 
traveller.  There  are  nearly  600,  of  which 
the  following  are  those  most  worthy  of 
notice : — 

KoOM  I. — 1,  Bru^asorzi :  the  Virgin 
and  Child.  —  2,  Bernurdino  Lidia : 
the  same  subject,  with  Verona  repre- 
sent/cd  as  a  Matron,  with  the  pro- 
tectors of  the  city,  SS.  Zeno  and  Peter 
Martyr,  —  5.  Ottino  :  Battle  on  the 
Ponte  delle  Navi,  w^here  Can  Grande 
della  Scala  defeated  his  brother  Frig- 
nano. — 6,  Turchij  or  Orhetto :  Battle 
between  the  Veronese  and  Vicentines 
in  1212.  A  door  from  here  leads  into 
Kooms  II.  and  III.,  which  contain 
specimens  of  the  more  ancient  painters 
of  the  Veronese  school — Badile,  F. 
Benagliay  Oirolamo  Santa  Croce,  C. 


Cnvelli,  Mansueti,  &c.  No.  43  is  a 
good  Madonna  and  Child,  by  C.  Cri' 
velU. — 48,  an  ancona  or  triptych  of 
the  Virgin  and'  two  Saints,  by  &, 
Benaglia. — 61,  an  ancona,  in  5  com- 
partments, of  the  Trinity  and  Saints, 
bearing  the  date  of  1360,  by  Turone, — 
52,  the  Virgin  with  Saints,  by  Vittore 
Bisano. — 59,  a  good  triptych,  by  G, 
Badile,  of  the  Virgin  and  Saints,  with 
a  Crucifixion  above.  —  67,  the  Sibyl 
announcing  to  Augustus  the  Advent 
of  the  Messiah,  by  Falconetti.—  GS,  a 
curious  collection  of  several  small 
subjects  from  the  Old  and  New  Testa- 
ments, attributed,  on  most  doubtful 
authority,  to  Cimabue.  Re-entering 
Room  I.  is 

Room  IV.  74,  a  Deposition,  by 
Baolo  Veronese ;  and  74,  a  good  full- 
length  portrait  of  Pace  Gruarienti,  by 
the  same. — 77,  a  Holy  Family,  by 
Liberale  di  Verona. — 79  and  82,  two 
subjects  of  the  blessed  Virgin  and 
Child,  by  aiolJim—^%  St.  John  and 
4  other  Saints  adoring  the  new-born 
Saviour,  by  F.  Carotto. 

Room  V .  90,  a  composition  alle- 
gorical of  music,  in  fresco,  by  Baolo 
Veronese. — ^93,  the  Virgin  and  Infant 
Saviour,  with  numerous  Saints,  many 
of  the  figures  being  evidently  portraits, 
by  Cavazzola. — 97,  the  Surrender  of 
Verona,  on  the  Piazza  di  San  Marco, 
to  the  Venetians  in  1405,  by  Jacopo 
Ligozzi ;  interesting  for  the  numerous 
cotemporary  portraits. — 98,  the  Virgin 
with  David,  with  the  Washing  of  the 
Feet  below,  by  Carotto. — Morone,  the 
Trinity. 

Room  VI.  contains  a  series  of 
10  paintings  by  Baolo  Morandi, 
more  generally  known  as  Cavazzola. — 
Nos.  104, 106, 107,  108,  and  109,  are 
fine  specimens  of  this  Veronese  master. 
Room  VII.,  numerous  works  of  Ve- 
ronese masters,  but  none  of  great 
interest,  and  leads  to 

Room  VIII.,  a  gallery  roimd  the 
court,  the  walls  of  wliich  are  covered 
with  an  extensive  series  of  engravings, 
bestowed  by  Count  Alessandro  Pom- 
peii. In  Rooms  IX.,  X.,  and  XI.  that 
follow,  there  are  no  paintings  of  great 


Venetian  Prov.      Route  29. —  Veroim — CasteV  San  Pietro. 


297 


interest,  being  miscellaneous  works  of 
Veronese  artists. 

Room  XII.,  a  long  gallery,  contains 
two  large  historical  subjects  of  local 
interest. — 181,  the  Victory  of  the  Ve- 
ronese over  the  inhabitants  of  Mantua 
in  1168,  at  the  Ponte  del  Molino,  by 
JPaolo  Farinati;  and,  183,  the  DeUvery 
of  the  Keys  of  Verona  in  1405  to  the 
Venetian  envoy  Emo,  by  Sante  Creara. 

KooM  XIII.  has  several  works  by 
Ottino. — 215,  a  Madonna  with  Saiats, 
by  P.  Farinati. — 217,  St.  Silvester 
baptizing  Constantine,  by  Brusasorzi. 
— 219  and  224,  an  Annunciation,  and 
the  Victory  of  the  Veronese  over  the 
inhabitants  of  Salo,  on  the  Lake  of 
Garda,  in  849,  both  by  the  same 
painter. — Tasqualotti,  a  Deposition. 

In  tliree  small  rooms,  XIV.,  XV., 
XVI.,  have  been  placed  a  miscel- 
laneous collection  of  second-rate  Vero- 
nese paintings,  given  to  the  academy 
by  Count  Pompeii;  as  well -as  in  4  rooms 
on  the  ground  floor :  the  most  interest- 
ing amongst  the  latter  being  No.  328, 
a  design  on  parchment,  by  A.  Man' 
tegna^  representing  a  Pagan  Sacrifice. 

The  Museo  Lapidario  contains  a 
valuable  collection  of  ancient  marbles, 
disposed  in  a  cortile  adjoining  the 
Teatro  Mlarmonico.  It  was  begun 
by  the  Aceademia  Filarmonica  in 
1617;  but  it  acquired  its  present 
importance  from  the  exertions  of 
the  celebrated  Scipione  Maffei,  who 
bestowed  upon  it  his  collections,  add- 
ing to  their  value  by  the  description 
which  he  published  of  them  in  the 
Museum  Veronense.  Many  important 
additions  have  been  subsequently 
made.  This  collection  does  not  contain 
any  objects  of  great  merit  as  works  of 
art ;  but  it  is  full  of  monuments  illus- 
trating points  of  archaeology,  and  of 
local  interest.  The  porticos  under 
which  these  antiquities  stand  were 
built  by  the  Philharmonics,  each  mem- 
ber contributing  an  arcade. 

The-  Castel  Veechio  was  erected  in 
1355  by  Cangrande  II.  It  is  still  a 
noble  and  picturesque  pile,  battle- 
mented  at  the  top.  "Within,  the  qua- 
drangle has  been  much  modernised,  and 

N.  /^a^y— 1866. 


some  fine  towers  have  been  demolished, 
in  adapting  it  to  its  present  use  as  a 
military  arsenal. 

Immediately  adjoining  the  castle, 
which  is  on  the  banks  of  the  Adige,  is 
the  coeval  bridge,  the  Ponte  del  Cas' 
tellOf  also  a  picturesque  object.  It  is  of 
brick,  turreted  and  battlemented.  The 
arches  are  of  unequal  size  ;  the  largest 
is  about  161  feet  in  span.  The  views 
of  and  from  this  bridge  are  very  fine. 

Upon  the  1.  bank  of  the  Adige  rose 
the   CasteV    San    JPietro,    where  for- 
merly stood  the  palace  of  Theodoric; 
built  in   part    of    Eoman    materials. 
Late  in  the  middle  ages    it  retained 
much  of  its  pristine  splendour ;  and, 
as  the  most  prominent   structure  of 
their  city,  the  inhabitants  caused  it  to 
be  engi^ed  upon  their  seal    As  far 
as  the  character  of  this  representation 
is  intelligible,  it  agrees  with  the  early 
descriptions,  which  state  the  palace  to 
have    been    surrounded    by    porticos. 
Many  parts  of  the  building  were  demo- 
lished for  the  purpose  of  building  the 
church  of  San  Pietro,  which  contained 
several  capitals,   columns,    and  other 
fragments  of  the  Gothic  structure.    In 
more  recent  periods  (1393)  Theodoric' s 
palace  was  turned    into  a  castle  by 
Gian'  Galeazzo,  who  obtained  the  lord- 
ship of  Verona  in  1387,  when  the  do- 
minion of  the   Scahgers   came  to  an 
end. '  But  the  Viscontis  lost  Verona  in 
1405,    and    other   fortifications  were 
added  by  the  Venetians,  to  whom  Ve- 
rona then  became  subject.  The  remains 
of  the  bmlding  were  blown  up  by  the 
French  in   March  1801.     What  re- 
mained after  the  explosion  has  been  re- 
moved, and  a  fine  barrack  erected  on 
the  site,  which  forms  a  striking  object 
in  all  the  views  of  Verona.    A  very 
convenient  flight  of   steps  leads  from 
opposite  the  Ponte  di  Pietra,'and  no 
traveller  who  wishes  to  enjoy  the  mag- 
nificent panorama  over  the  surround- 
ing country  ought  to  omit  to  ascend 
to  the  terrace,  from  which,   in    fine 
weather,  may  be  descried  the  great 
plain  of  the  Adige  and  Po,  studded 
with  innumerable  towns  and  villages, 
with  the  Tuscan  and  Modenese  Apen- 

p 


298 


Eoute  29. —  Verona — Cathedral. 


Sect.  IV 


nines  in  the  background.  Beyond  the 
ruins  of  the  church  of  San  Pietro  are  the 
remains  of  the  Castel  San  Felice,  now 
crowned  by  a  very  strong  fortress, 
which  formed  the  summit  of  the  angle 
in  the  old  system  of  defences.  This  also 
was  the  work  of  Sanmicheli.  The 
limestone  of  the  hill  abounds  in  fossil 
remains  5  and  in  the  history  of  geology 
they  are  remarkable,  as  being  amongst 
the  first  which  excited  curiosity,  when 
a  specimen  of  them  was  presented  to 
the  celebrated  Fracastoro.  He  had 
read  about  them  in  PHny  and  Theo- 
phrastus,  and  he  came  to  the  con- 
clusion that  they  were  not  semblances, 
generated  by  the  plastic  force  of  nature, 
as  was  the  opinion  at  the  time,  but 
had  one  day  been  real  animals  living 
in,  and  deposited  by  the  sea. 

Churches. — The  Duomo  or  Cathedraly 
also  called  Sta.  Maria  Matricolare, 
is  attributed  to  Charlemagne,  though 
it  cannot  be  clearly  shown  by  whom,  or 
at  what  time  exactly,  the  existing  fabric 
was  commenced.  A  church  had  been 
erected  before  the  time  of  Charlemagne 
on  the  spot  where  the  cathedral  now 
stands,  in  honour  of  the  Virgin,  on 
the  site,  and  with  the  materials,  of  a 
temple  of  Minerva.  This  church  was 
repaired  thirty  years  after  Charle- 
magne's death  by  the  Archdeacon  Paci- 
ficus,  as  is  mentioned  in  the  inscrip- 
tion on  his  tomb.  Had  Charlemagne 
built  a  new  church,  it  would  not  so 
soon  have  wanted  repair,  except  owing 
to  some  accident,  of  which,  however, 
there  is  no  mention.  The  tradition  of 
this  church  having  been  built  in  the 
time  of  Charlemagne  may  perhaps  be 
accounted  for  by  the  episcopal  chair 
having  been  transferred  here  in  806. 
A  new  sacristy  was  built  in  1160,  and 
in  1187  Urban  III.  reconsecrated  the 
existing  cathedral.  We  may  conclude, 
therefore,  that  the  greater  part  of  the 
existing  cathedral  was  rebuilt  in  the 
first  half  of  the  12th  centy.  The  apse 
at  the  E.  end,  and  a  portion  of  its 
sides,  are  in  a  very  different  style  from 
the  rest  of  the  buUding ;  so  near  a  re- 
semblance to  the  Koman  as  to  induce 


us  to  believe  that  these  portions  are  a 
remnant  of  the  original  church.  The 
vaulting  of  the  Duomo  was  begun  in 
1402,  but  not  finished  till  1514.  In 
1534  further  alterations  (the  choir, 
screen,  and  the  chapels  placed  along 
the  S.  wall)  were  made  under  the  di- 
rection of  Sanmicheli. 

The  handsome  porch  must  have 
formed  part  of  the  new  building,  and  be- 
longs, therefore,  to  the  12th'centy.  Four 
columns,  supporting  two  arches,  one 
over  the  other,  and  the  lower  columns 
resting  on  griffons,  support  the  porcli. 
This  mode  of  supporting  columns 
seems  to  have  been  common  in  Italy 
in  the  12th  and  18th  centuries.  Tha 
celebrated  Pidadins,  Roland  and  Oliver, 
who  guard  the  entrance,  may  be  sup- 
posed to  have  been  introduced  with, 
reference  to  the  traditionary  connection 
of  Charlemagne  with  this  building. 
The  Lombard  imagery  no  longer  ap- 
pears as  an  ornament  of  the  mouldings, 
but  the  underside  of  the  arch  whicli 
forms  the  vault  of  the  porch  exhibits  a 
variety  of  grotesque  images  and  symbols. 

On  the  1.  of  the  door,  Orlaaido 
in  his  rt.  hand  holds  his  celebrated, 
sword,  upon  the  blade  whereof  its 
name  is  inscribed,  divided  thus  into 
its  four  syllables,  Du-rin-dar-da.  His 
shield,  straight  at  top,  is  pointed 
at  the  bottom,  and  ornamented  with  a 
species  of  Etruscan  scroll-work.  His 
1.  leg  and  1.  foot  are  armed  in  mail ; 
the  rt.  leg  and  rt.  foot  are  bare.  Oppo- 
site to  him  is  his  companion  OHver  : 
his  shield  is  like  that  of  Orlando; 
and  he  is  armed  not  with  a  sword,  but 
with  a  truncheon  or  mace,  to  which 
is  appended  a  ball  held  by  a  chain. 
Such  a  weapon,  supposed  to  have  be- 
longed to  him,  was  until  the  last  age 
preserved  in  the  monastery  of  Ronces- 
valles,  thus  showing  the  authority  of 
the  traditions  according  to  which  the 
sculptures  were  formed.  But  the  most 
remarkable  circumstance  is,  that  the 
combined  peculiarities  of  the  arms  and 
armour  of  Roland  and  Oliver  are  found 
in  Livy's  account  of  the  Samnite  war- 
riors J  and  the  description  which  he 
gives  is   so    singularly  applicable    t 


T'enetian  Peov.        Boute  29. —  Verona—  Cathedral, 


299 


the  costume  of  these  statues,  that  we 
think  it  hest  to  giye  the  very  words 
of  the  historian,  in  order  that  the  tra- 
Teller  may  compare  them  with  the 
effigies  ]vhich  he  will  see  before  hiin. — 
**  The  shape  of  their  shield  was  this ; 
broad  above  to  cover  the  breast  and 
shoulders,  embossed  with  silver  or  with 
gold,  fiat  at  top,  and  wedgelike  below, 
—  *  spongia  pectori  tegumentum,'  — 
and  the  1.  leg  covered  by  the  ocrea." — 
The  "  spongia "  has  puzzled  the  com- 
mentators, and  Baker  translates  it  by 
"a  loose  coat  of  mailj"  but  Maffei 
supposes  that  the  spongia  is  the  ball 
wielded  by  Oliver,  and  which  repre- 
sents, to  a  certain  degree,  a  sponge  in 
its  form. 

In  the  semicircle  over  the  entrance 
is  an  ancient  bas-reUef,  representing  the 
Adoration  of  the  Magi  j  it  has  been 
coloured,  and  the  blue  ground  is  yet 
visible :  beneath  are  three  female  heads, 
well  executed,  inscribed  Mdes^  Spes, 
Caritas.  Among  the  grotesques  of  this 
portal  may  be  noticed  a  hog  standing 
upright  on  his  hind  legs,  dressed  in  a 
monk's  robe  and  cowl,  and  holding  in 
his  fore  paws  an  open  book,  upon 
^which  is  inscribed  a.  b.  poeoel — evi- 
dently a  satire  of  the  middle  ages  agaiast 
the  monks. 

The  porch  on  the  S.  side  of  the  ch. 
consists  of  two  ranges  of  columns,  with 
strange  mystical  or  satirical  sculptures. 

The  more  modern  portions  of  the 
Puomo  are  exceedingly  rich.  Amongst 
the  chapels,  those  of  the  Mafiei  family, 
and  of  St.  Agatha,  on  rt.  of  high  altar, 
are  peculiarly  elegant.  In  and  about 
the  Duomo  are  some  remarkable  monu- 
ments.— ^An  inscription  ia  the  N.  aisle 
commemorates  the  death  and  the  works 
of  the  celebrated  Pacificus  Archdeacon 
of  Verona  (778-846).  His  name  is 
written  in  three  languages, — Pacificus^ 
Salomon^  Irenoius.  Seven  churches 
were  founded  by  him  at  Verona.  He 
had  great  skill  as  an  artist  in  wood, 
stone,  and  metal,  and  he  also  invented 
some  machine  for  telling  the  hour  by 
night ;  but  there  is  no  reason  to  sup- 
pose that  a  striking  clock  was  intended. 
His  epitaph  also  claims  for  him  the 


merit  of  having  been  the  first  glossator 
of  the  Holy  Scriptures. — Pope  Lucius 
III.,  like  many  other  of  the  medi- 
fieval  pontiffs,  was  driven  from  his  see 
by  the  disturbances  of  the  unruly  Ro- 
mans, and  compelled  to  take  refuge  at 
Verona,  where,  after  holding  a  very  im- 
portant ecclesiastical  council,  he  died 
(1185),  and  is  buried  here.  A  curious 
epitaph  marks  the  place  of  his  inter- 
ment.— ^An  ancient  sarcophagus,  with 
the  head  of  Medusa,  was  afterwards 
used  as  the  tomb  of  a  noble  Venetian. 
Such  adaptations  often  take  place:  at 
Pisa  we  shall  find  several.  Amongst 
the  more  modem  monuments  is  that  of 
the  Poet  de  Cesaris,  with  good  sta- 
tues of  Rehgion  and  Poetry,  and  sur- 
mounted by  his  bust.  The  Duomo 
formerly  boasted  of  many  fine  paint- 
ings ;  but  several  have  been  removed. 
The  Assumption,  by  Titian^  ia  the  1st 
chapel  on  1.,  has  resimied  its  place  here 
after  travelling  to  Paris.  This  pic- 
ture needs  no  praise,  for  its  beauties 
would  strike  the  most  careless  observer. 
The  manner  in  which  the  Virgin  is 
represented  as  floating  upwards  is 
admirable.  Others  worthy  of  notice 
are — Moroniy  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul  j 
— Gfiolfino,  the  Last  Supper; — Fari- 
nati^  the  Virgin  and  Child ; — Liberale^ 
the  Adoration  of  the  Three  Kings. 
The  bronze  statue  of  our  Saviour  is  by 
CHovanni  Battista  di  Verona  (fl.  1500). 
The  presbytery  in  which  it  stands  is  by 
Sanmicheli,  and  the  walls  and  mould- 
ings are  painted  in  fresco  by  Francesco 
Torhido  il  Moro^  from  the  designs  of 
GiuUo  Romano.  The  chapel  of  S. 
Agata  contains  a  fine  sculptured  shrine 
of  the  saint,  of  the  l^th  centy. ;  the 
pilasters  at  the  entrance,  covered  with 
handsome  arabesque  reliefs,  were  exe- 
cuted in  1508  by  Paolo  del  Ahrio.  The 
Baptistery i  also  called  the  church  of 
San  Giovanni  in  Fonte^  is  said  to  have 
been  built  between  the  years  1122  sgid 
1135  J  the  older  baptistery  having  been 
destroyed  by  an  earthquake  in  1116. 
In  the  centre  is  a  large  octangular  font, 
31  ft.  in  circumference,  hewn  out  of  a 
single  block  of  Verona  marble.  A 
frieze  of  small  Lombard  arclies,  sup- 

p  2 


300 


Route  29. —  Veivna — Biblioteca  Capitolare.        Sect.  IV. 


ported  by  grotesque  heads,  runs 
round  the  summit.  On  the  faces  are 
represented  the  following  subjects  : 
the  Annunciation,  the  Visitation,  the 
Birth  of  our  Lord,  the  Angels  appear- 
ing to  the  Shepherds,  the  Adoration  of 
the  Magi,  Herod  commanding  the 
Slaughter  of  the  Innocents,  the  Exe-  j 
cution  of  his  Decree,  the  Flight  into 
Egypt,  the  Baptism  in  the  Jordan.  The 
sculpture  is  in  a  free  forcible  style.  The 
picture  of  the  Baptism  of  our  Lord,  over 
the  liigh  altar,  is  by  Paul  Farinati. 

The  Cloister  of  the  cathedral  has 
been  modernised  in  the  upper  story, 
for  it  had  originally  a  double  arcade. 
It  has  two  ranges  of  arches  in  the 
height  of  the  gallery  ;  each  arch  rests 
on  a  pair  of  columns,  and  each  pair  is 
of  a  single  stone,  the  capitals  and  bases 
being  united.  Adjoining  is  a  fragment 
of  what  is  said  to  have  been  a  church  be- 
fore the  erection  of  the  present  cathedral. 
It  is  merely  a  rectangular  room,  with  a 
groined  vault  supported  on  columns. 

The  Biblioteca  Capitolare,  which  is 
entered  from  the  cloister,  is  one  of 
the  important  collections  in  Italy  for 
sacred  and  Patristic  hterature.  It 
was  first  formed  by  Pacificus,  and  con- 
tains a  large  proportion  of  very  early 
manuscripts,  some  of  the  4th  and  5th 
centuries.  Here  Petrarch  first  read  the 
Epistles  of  Cicero ;  and  the  library  is 
yet  an  unexplored  mine  for  the  histo- 
rical, ecclesiastical,  and  Hturgical  in- 
quirer. Many  of  the  manuscripts  are 
palimpsests,  and  one  of  them  furnished 
the  *  Institutes  of  Caius,'  compiled  in 
the  reign  of  Caraealla.  It  was  known 
that  this  treatise  was  the  foundation  of 
the  *  Institutes  of  Justinian,'  but  not 
a  fragment  of  it  could  be  found.  "  A 
rumour,  devoid  of  evidence,"  says 
G-ibbon,  "  has  been  propagated  by  the 
enemies  of  Justinian,  that  the  jurispru- 
dence of  ancient  Rome  was  reduced  to 
ashes  by  the  author  of  the  Pandects, 
from  the  vain  persuasion  that  it  was 
now  either  false  or  superfluous.  With- 
out usurping  an  oflGlce  so  invidious,  the 
Emperor  might  safely  commit  to  igno- 
rance and  time  the  accomplishment  of 
this  destructive  wish.    Before  the  in- 


vention of  printing  and  paper,  the 
labour  and  the  materials  of  writing 
could  be  purchased  only  by  the  rich  ; 
and  it  may  reasonably  be  computed 
that  the  price  of  books  was  an  hundred- 
fold their  present  value.  Copies  were 
slowly  multipHed  and  cautiously  re- 
newed :  the  hopes  of  profit  tempted 
the  sacrilegious  scribes  to  erase  the 
characters  of  antiqmty,  and  Sophocles 
or  Tacitus  were  compelled  to  resign 
the  parchment  to  missals,  homihes,  and 
the  golden  legend.  If  such  was  the 
fate  of  the  most  beautiful  composi- 
tions of  genius,  what  stability  could 
be  expected  for  the  dull  and  barren 
works  of  an  obsolete  science." — GHbbon. 
Years  after  the  death  of  Gibbon  his 
sagacity  was  verified  by  the  zeal  of 
Niebuhr,  who,  when  on  his  way  to 
Kome  in  1816,  examined  this  library  : 
two  small  fragments  relating  to  juris- 
prudence, not  palimpsests,  had  been 
published  by  Mafiei,  but  he  had  not 
ascertained  their  author.  Niebuhr 
suspected  that  they  were  parts  of  the 
*  Institutes  of  Caius  j'  and  upon  fur- 
ther examination  he  discovered  the 
whole  remainder,  or  nearly  so,  of  this 
ancient  text-book  of  the  Roman  law 
palimpsested  beneath  the  homilies  of 
St.  Jerome,  literally  verifying  Gribbon's 
words.  At  the  instance  of  Niebuhr  a 
learned  German  jurist  was  despatched 
to  Verona  by  the  Prussian  Govern- 
ment, and  the  result  has  been  the  pub- 
lication of  the  lost  work.  Of  the  other 
palimpsests  is  a  Virgil  of  the  3rd  or 
4jth  centy.,  under  a  commentary  by  St. 
Gregory  on  the  Book  of  Job,  in  Longo- 
bardic  writing  of  the  8th.  It  may  be 
older  than  the  Virgil  in  the  Lau- 
rentian  Library  at  Florence.  The 
Bibhoteca  Capitolare  also  contains  in- 
edited  poems  by  Dante.  Here  also 
may  be  seen  the  baptismal  certificate 
of  Prince  Charles  Edward  Stuart,  the 
young  Pretender,  dated  "  Roma,  ultima 
Decemb.  1720 ;"  and  a  Diptych  of  the 
Consul  Anastasius  in  the  6th  centy. 

The  Vescovadoy  or  bishop's  palace, 
has  been  altered  and  rebuilt  at  various 
periods,  but  principally  about  the  year 
1356.    One  of  the  courts  with  fanci- 


Venetian  Peov.      •  Houte  20. —  Verona — Sant^  Anastasia, 


O 


01 


fill  columns  is  striking,  and  this  edifice 
exhibits  in  its  more  modem  portions 
many  curious  modifications  of  the 
cinque-cento  style,  particularly  in  the 
portals  attributed  to  Fra  Oioaondo. 
Many  of  the  paintings  have  been  car- 
ried ofi*,  but  in  the  Sala  dei  Vescovi 
a  series  still  remains  of  the  portraits,  by 
Srusasorzi^  of  the  bishops  of  Verona 
from  Euprepius  to  Cardinal  Agostiao 
Valerio  in  1566  ;  of  course  the  greater 
number  are  imaginary.  In  the  principal 
court  of  the  Vescovado  stands  a  fine 
colossal  statue  of  a  crowned  female 
holding  a  crown,  with  the  artist's  name, 
Alessandro  Vittoria. 

Altogether  there  are  about  40 
churches  in  Verona ;  the  following  are 
the  most  remarkable : — 
J  Ch.  of  Sanf  Anastasia^  close  to  the 
^  Albergo  delle  due  Torri,  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  Gotliic  churches  in 
Italy.  "  It  would,  if  the  front  were 
finished,  probably  be  the  most  perfect 
specimen  in  existence  of  the  style  to 
which  it  belongs.  It  was  built  at  the 
beginning  of  the  13th  century,  by  the 
Dominicans.^*  The  main  fabric  yas 
begun  in  1260,  but  the  casing  of  the 
front  not  tiQ  1426.  The  fa9ade  was  to 
have  been  enriched  with  bas-reliefs, 
but  this  work  had  been  only  begun. 
The  inside  consists  of  a  nave  and  2 
narrow  aisles  separated  by  6  pointed 
arches,  terminated  by  an  apse  of  5 
sides.  The  transepts  are  short,  with 
2  chapels  opening  out  of  each,  and  in 
the  angle  between  one  of  them  and  the 
choir  is  a  square  tower,  terminating  in 
an  octagonal  spire.  AU  the  arches 
and  vaultings  are  obtusely  pointed. 
The  springing  of  the  middle  vault 
hardly  exceeds  the  points  of  the  arches 
into  the  aisles;  and  the  windows  of 
the  clerestory  are  circular  and  very 
small.  Its  dimensions  are  75  ft.  wide, 
and  300  ft.  long.  The  church  is 
rich  in  paintings  and  altars ;  and  it 
appears  to  have  been  originally  en- 
tirely covered  with  frescoes,  but  many 
of  them  are  almost  destroyed;  those, 
however,  in  the  spandrils  of  the  vault- 
ing are  very  remarkable  on  account 
'  their  beauty  and  fine  preservation. 


\     of 


A  few  of  the  principal  objects  which 
it    contains    may    be    enimierated: — 
The  two    urns  for  holy  water,  sup- 
ported by  grotesque  figures;   the  one 
on    the    1.   is    by    Gahriele    CagliaH 
the  father  of  Paolo  Veronese.  —  The 
Fregoso  Altar  and  Chapel,  which  Va- 
sari,  usually  scanty  in  his  account  of 
Lombard  art,  considers  as  one  of  the 
finest  in  Italy  ;   Danese  CataneOy  1565, 
was  at  once  the  architect  and  sculptor 
of  this  monument. — ^The  Altar  of  St, 
Vincent,  2nd  on  rt.,  built  of  rich  grey 
marble,  the  pillars  on  each  side  of  Fior 
di  Persico ;   the  Patron    Saint  is  by 
Hotari:   above  is  a  curious  fresco,  in 
tolerable  preservation. — The  Altar  of 
the  Bevilaqua  Lazise  Famiily,  3rd  on 
rt. :  CarotOy  the  Body  of  our  Lord,  with 
the  Maries  weeping  around.,  in  fresco. 
— The  Pindemonte  Altar. — Caroto,  St. 
Martin:  beyond  it  from  the  roof  hangs 
the    lower   jaw-bone  of  a  spermaceti 
whale. — Chapel  of  the  Crucifix,  4th  on 
it. :  a  curious-ancient  piece  of  sculpture, 
a  Deposition  from  the  Cross. — Altar  of 
the  Centrago  Family,  7th  on  rt. :  the 
Virgin  between  St.  Augustine  and  St. 
Thomas  Aquinas  ;  an  excellent  picture 
by  Francesco  Morone. — The  Chapel  of 
8.  GemignanOf  8th,   has  fine  frescoes 
(probably  by  Altichieri)  connected  with 
the  Cavalli'  family,  and  a  GTothic  tomb. 
— Pellegrini  Chapel,  9th  :  curious  bas- 
reUefs,  in  terracotta,  of  the  life  of  our 
Saviour ;  they  are  of  the  15th  centy. 
The  Descent  from  the  Cross  is  the  best, 
in  which  the  artist  has  introduced  a  fine 
figure  of  one  of  the  Pellegrini  family 
Here  are  also  two  good  Gothic  monu- 
ments of  the  Pelegrinis,  and  some  cu- 
rious ancient  frescoes,  in  which  portraits 
are  introduced  of  members  of  the  Ali- 
gheri  and  Bevilaqua  families  ;  the  best 
is  that  of  the  Virgin  surrounded  by 
Saints,  with  the  Donatorio  presented  to 
her.  Over  the  arch  of  the  chapel  is  a  St. 
George,    much    injured,   by    Vittorio 
Pisanelli;  the  foresliortenings  and  pro- 
jections, as  usual,  remarkably  skilful. 
— High  Altar :  Torelli,  the  Death  of  St. 
Peter  Martyr,  imitated  from  Titian ; 
tomb   of   Cortesia  Serego  (1432),  the 
brother-in-law  and  general  of  Antonio 


\ 


302 


Houte  29. —  Verona — Churches, 


Sect.  IV. 


della  Scala. — The  LavagnoU  Chapel, 
6th  on  1. :  curious  frescoes  in  the  style 
of  Mantegna ;  and  a  fine  tomb  of  the 
family. — Sacristy,  out  of  1.  transept : 
over  the  door,  a  huge  ugly  picture,  the 
Council  of  Trent,  by  Falcieri,  with  no 
merit  as  a  work  of  art,  but  curious  as  a 
nearly  contemporary  memorial  of  that 
assembly.  Within  are  some  good  pic- 
tures by  Brusasorzi:  the  altarpiece 
with  SaintiS,  and  portraits  of  members 
of  the  Dominican  order. — Chapel  of 
the  Rosary,  5th  on  1.,  built  from  the 
designs  of  Sanmicheli :  the  altarpiece, 
in  distemper,  in  a  GKottesque  style, 
contains  portraits  of  Mastino  II.  della 
Scala,  and  his  wife  Taddea  Carrara, 
kneeling  before  the  Virgin,  injured  by 
time ;  the  features  of  Mastino  are  re- 
markably expressive  of  his  character. — 
The  Miniscalchi  Chapel:  Amongst  its 
many  decorations  the  principal  is  the 
Descent  of  the  Holy  Spirit,  in  fresco,  by 
Oiolfino. — Several  cenotaphs  have  been 
erected  in  the  ch.  of  S.  Anastasia :  of 
Cossali,  the  author  of  the  Storia  Critica 
delV  Algebra,  a  work  of  great  merit ; 
Cagnoli,  the  mathematician;  Targa,  the 
translator  of  Celsus  j  and  of  Lorenzi,  a 
poet.  Much  of  the  marble  called  hron- 
zino  is  introduced  into  the  ornaments 
of  this  church :  it  is  not  so  called  from 
its  colour,  but  from  the  metaUic  sound 
which  it  emits  when  struck.    The  pave 


I  Gk)thic  canopy,  beneath  which  staiids 
the  sarcophagus.  There  are  other 
tombs  of  the  same  description  within 
the  courtyard  of  the  convent. 

Ch.  of  San  Bernardino:  monastic 
in  its  outward  aspect,  and  flanked  by 
2  cloisters  full  of  decayed  and  broken 
tombs.  The  ch.  was  built  about  1499, 
after  the  great  pestilence,  and  restored 
1859.  Oha.  its  fine  rood  and  organ- 
loft.  The  principal  pictures  are — Bon- 
signori,  the  Virgin  between  St.  Jerome 
and  St.  George,  dated  14<88.  His 
paintings  are  rare  out  of  Mantua. — 
A  very  beautiftd  and  interesting 
painting,  the  lower  portion  by  Cavaz- 
zola,  who  died  at  the  age  of  31 
(1522),  while  engaged  on  it.  The 
upper  division,  by  Morone,  consists  of 
the  Virgin  and  Child,  SS.  Francis  and 
Anthony,  and  Angels;  a  group  of 
Saints,  including  St.  Elizabeth,  who, 
according  to  the  legend,  sees  the  bread 
which  she  has  distributed  \o  the  poor 
changed  into  roses  :  he  has  also  intro- 
duced the  portrait  of  the  female  donor. 
The  Chapel  of  the  Holy  Cross  has  a 
Deposition,  and  other  good  paintings, 
by  Cavazzolo. — GHolfino,  some  hesiutiful 
though  damaged  frescoes.  In  one  of 
them  the  painter  has  introduced  a  view 
of  the  Piazza  di  Br^^  as  it  stood  in  his 
time,  an  interesting  topographical  me- 
morial.     Annexed  to  the  church  is 


formed  of  most  tasteful  designs  in 
white,  gray,  and  red  marbles;  the  wood- 
work of  the  principal  door  is  well  de- 
serving of  notice  from  its  chaste  design. 
On  the  N.  side  of  the  square,  before 
this  church,  is  the  interesting  Gothic 
Chapel  of  San  Pietro  Martire,  which, 
with  the  adjoining  buildings,  formed  a 
part  of  the  convent  of  Sanf  Anastasia. 
The  edifice  is  now  the  lAceo,  or  college, 
an  institution  in  which  upwards  of  500 
pupils  were  educated,  before  they  were 
driven  from  it  by  the  Austrians  to 
convert  it  into  a  barrack.  Over  the 
entrance,  on  the  side  of  the  square, 
is  the  monument  of  GhiglieUno  da 
Castelharco  (ph.  1320),  the  friend  and 
adviser  of  the  Scahgers,  and  one  of 
the  benefactors  of  S.  Anastasia,  a  lofty 


ment  is   varied   and  beautiful,    bein^  ^he  Capella  Bellegrini,  one  of  the  finest 


works  o£  Sanmicheli.  "  The  gem  of  this 
great  master  is  the  little  circular  chapel 
at  San  Bernardino,  whose  beauty,  we 
think,  has  scarcely  ever  been  surpassed, 
and  which  exhibits,  in  a  striking  de- 
gree, the  early  perfection  of  the  Ve- 
netian school.  It  was  not  finished 
under  SanmicheH,  and  blemishes  are  to 
be  found  in  it ;  it  is,  nevertheless,  an 
exquisite  production,  and,  in  a  surpris- 
ingly small  space,  exhibits  a  refinement 
which  elsewhere  we  scarcely  know 
equalled." — Ghfdlt,  The  material  is  of 
a  greyish  white,  showing  exquisite  work- 
manship :  in  the  pavement  some  coloured 
marbles  are  introduced.  In  the  upper 
cloisters,  and  in  what  was  once  the  li- 
brary, are  somefi^scoesby  jPVa».  Morone. 
Ch,   of  Sta.   Siena,   adjoining    the 


ViiiNE'riAN  PROV.        Boide  29. —  Verona — San  Fermo. 


303 


baptiBtery  of  the  cathedral:  some 
curious  ancient  tomhs  and  inscriptions; 
amongst  others  that  of  Theodorius^ 
one  of  the  cardinals  of  the  time  of/ 
Lucius  III. ;  about  1177. ,  Paintings  j 
Felice  JSrttscuorzif  St.  Helen  and  other 
Saints,  a  pleasing  composition, — lAbe- 
rcUey  St.  Helen  and  St.  Catherine,  dated 
1490.  In  the  crypt  is  a  curious  early 
Christian  mosaic. 

Ch.  of  SatW  JEufemiay  a  building  of 
the  time  of  the  Scaligers,  but  modern- 
ised. It  contains  several  frescoes  and 
paintings  of  the  Veronese  school,  of 
which  the  best  are  those  by  Caroto,  in 
the  Chapel  degli  Spolverini.  They  are 
considered  as  the  finest  of  his  produc- 
tions. In  the  middle  picture  of  the 
altar  are  represented  the  three  arch- 
angels ;  in  the  side  panels  two  female 
saints.  On  the  side  wall  Caroto 
painted  the  History  of  Tobias  :  of 
these  pictures  the  lower  one  is  grace- 
ful ;  the  mother  of  Tobias  embraces 
her  daughter-in-law,  while  Tobias  him- 
self heals  the  eyes  of  his  blind  father. 
These  frescoes  are  in  some  parts  painted 
over  and  much  injured. — In  3rd  chapel 
on  rt.,  2).  Srusasorziy  the  Virgin  in 
Glory ;  below,  St.  Roch,  St.  Sebastian, 
and  others. — In  1st  chapel  on  1.,  II 
MorettOf  St.  Onoprius  and  St.  An- 
thony. There  are  also  several  monu- 
ments in  this  church.  Two  are 
remarkable  from  their  connection 
with  Petrarch — the  tomb  of  Minaldo 
di  Villa  Franca,  one  of  Petrarch's 
correspondents,  and  that  of  Pietro  del 
Verme  and  Liicchino  his  son.  The  lat- 
ter was  a  Condottiere  of  considerable 
fame,  to  whom  Petrarch  dedicated  his 
treatise  upon  the  virtues  needed  for 
a  commander.  Outside  the  ch.,  close 
to  a  side-door,  the  monument  of  Marco 
and  Pier  Antonio  Verita,  by  Sanmi- 
chelif  haa  much  merit.  The  cloister  ia 
from  the  designs  of  Sanmicheli;  but  it  is 
now  used  as  a  barrack.  The  antiquarian 
and  historian  Panvinio  and  Cardinal 
Noris  were  Austin  friars  in  the  convent 
of  Sta.  Eufemia.  Fracastoro  was 
buried  here. 

Ch.  of  San  Fermo  Maggiore,    This 
church  has  the  epithet  of  "  Maggiore  " 


from  its  size :  it  is,  perhaps,  the  most 
interesting  in  Verona  after  the  cathedral 
and  San  Zenone.  Its  foundation  may  be 
traced  as  far  back  as  751 .  The  crypt  ap- 
pears to  have  been  built  in  1065 ;  and 
the  massive  piers  and  heavy  vaulting  are 
perhaps  imaltered.  The  church  is  of 
brick  with  a  good  deal  of  ornament, 
and  the  rows  of  Uttle  arches  are  some 
of  them  trefoil-headed.  The  door  in 
the  facade  is  round-headed,  with  a  pro- 
fusion of  ornamented  mouldings.  It 
has  no  rose  in  the  front,  but,  instead, 
are  four  lancet  windows  with  trefoil 
heads.  Over  these  is  a  smaller  win- 
dow, divided  by  little  shafts  into 
three  parts,  and  a  small  circular  open- 
ing on  each  side  of  it.  There  is  no 
tracery.  The  building  ends  in  a  gable, 
whose  cornice  is  loaded  with  ornament, 
with  three  pinnacles  rising  above  it. 
The  interior  is  in  a  fine  and  bold 
Gothic  stvle,  bmlt  between  1313  and 
1332.  The  open  roof  is  of  wood. 
There  is  a  curious  sepulchral  monu- 
ment of  the  14th  centy.  in  one  of 
the  chapels.  San  Fermo,  originally 
belonging  to  the  monks  of  St.  Bene- 
dict, passed  to  the  Franciscan  friars 
in  the  13th  centy. 

San  Fermo  has  some  remarkable 
monuments.  In  the  chapel  of  the  Ali- 
ghieris,  in  the  S.  transept,  are  two  urns 
of  the  last  members  of  the  family  of 
Bante.  They  were  erected  by  Francisco 
Alighieri,  siith  in  descent  from  the  poet, 
to  the  memory  of  his  brothers  Pietro 
and  Ludovico.  Francesco  was  eminent 
for  his  literary  acquirements ;  he  was 
also  much  addicted  to  the  study  of  archi- 
tecture, and  made  an  excellent  trans- 
lation of  Vitruvius.  Until  its  extinc- 
tion this  family  continued  in  great  pros- 
perity and  honour  at  Verona.  Two  of 
the  descendants  of  Dante  took  his  name ; 
and  hence  on  the  epitaph  the  Either  of 
Francesco  and  his  brother  are  desig- 
nated as  "Dante  terzo."  The  wing,  or 
Ala,  in  the  shield  of  the  Alighieris,  is 
what  is  called  in  French  heraldry  an 
"  armoirie  parlante."  It  was  a  daughter 
of  Francesco  who  married  into  the  noble 
family  of  Serego  of  Verona,  and  which, 
under  the  name  of  Serego  Alighieri, 


304 


Rotde  29. —  Verona — Churches, 


Sect.  IV- 


still  represents  the  descendants  of  the 
great  poet.  Torello  Saraina  chapel,  3rd 
on  rt.,  built  by  the  historian  of  Verona 
of  that  name  in  1523 :  an  excellent 
cinquecento  specimen. — Tomb  of  the 
Torriani^  erected  about  the  beginning 
of  the  16th  cent.,  by  Giulio,  Battista, 
and  Baimondo  della  Torre,  to  the  me- 
'  mory  of  their  father  Girolamo  and  their 
brother  Marc  Antonio.  Both  &ther 
and  son  were  professors  at  Padua,  and 
enjoyed  the  highest  reputation.  The 
monument,  a  lofty  altar-tomb,  was  de- 
corated with  bronzes,  by  Andrea  Riccio 
or  Briosco,  the  architect  of  the  church 
of  Sta.  Giustina  at  Padua.  The  few 
ornaments,  the  bronze  sphinxes  and 
the  portraits  of  the  Torriani,  which 
remain,  are  of  great  beauty :  the  prin- 
cipal bas-reliefs  were  carried  off  to 
Paris,  where  they  are  fixed  into  a  door 
of  painted  wood  at  the  Louvre ;  they 
have  been  replaced  by  copies.  There 
is  a  curious  monument  to  the  memory 
oi Antonio  Pelacani  (or,  skin  the  dogs), 
who  appropriately  took  for  wife  Mabilia 
Pelavicini  (or,  skin  the  neighbours). 
He  was  a  professor  of  medicine,  who 
died  in  1327,  and  is  represented  teach- 
ing, surrounded  by  his  pupils. 

Many  ancient  paintings  in  and  about 
the  church  have  been  whitewashed  over. 
Among  those  which  remain  are  the 
following: — a  Crucifixion,  supposed 
to  be  earlier  than  the  time  of  Cima- 
bue. — TiUorio  PisaneUo^  an  Annuncia- 
tion, executed  about  1430 :  the  angel 
is  represented  as  kneeling  before  the 
Virgin.  The  Adoration  of  the  Magi : 
this  painting  is  in  a  bad  light. — 
Benaglia,  the  same  subject. — Domenico 
Moroney  St.  Anthony  of  Padua. — Or- 
betto,  the  Nativity. — Caroto,  the  Virgin 
and  Saints,  dated  in  1528. — Barca,  a 
Pietk. — Coppa^  an  emblematical  compo- 
sition,— ^Verona  supplicating  the  Virgin 
for  deliverance  from  the  Pestilence. — 
DondoUy  the  last  Supper. — Qiovan  Bat- 
tista  del  Moro^  St.  Nicholas  and  St.  Ago- 
stino. — Torbido,  the  Virgin  and  Saints. 
• — Oremay  the  Virgin  with  St.  Anthony 
and  St.  Brandan. — Caneiro,  the  Virgin 
with  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul. — Francesco 
Bonsignore^  the  Virgin,  with  the  Lady 


by  whom  the  painting  was  presented 
kneeling  before  her,  date  1484. — 1>- 
Brusasorziy  a  Crucifixion,  with  the 
Virgin  and  Saints  and  the  Magdalene. 
The  Gothic -pulpit,  with  fine  frescoes 
of  Saints  and  Prophets,  by  Stefano  da 
ZeviOy  is  remarkable.  The  sacristy 
and  cloisters  should  also  be  visited.  So 
also  the  crypt,  with  curious  frtigments 
of  frescoes  freed  from  the  whitewash 
with  which  they  had  been  long  covered. 

Ch.  of  San  Qiorgio  MaggiorCy  at  the 
N.  extremity  of  the  town,  on  the  1.  side 
of  the  Adige,  of  very  ancient  foundation. 
The  interior,   by  Sanmicheli,  exhibits 
his  talent  and  exuberant  richness  of 
fancy.    The  adjoining  convent  was  sold 
by  the  French,   and   is   now  almost 
wholly  demolished.      In  the  church, 
ohs.  the  High  Altar  by  Brugnoliy  the 
nephew  of  Sanmicheh :  the  details  are 
exquisitely  sculptured. — Paolo    F'ero- 
nese,  a  fine  Martyrdom  of  St.  GJeorge. 
— Farinati,  the  Miracle  of  the  Loaves 
and  Fishes,  painted  by  the  artist  in 
1603,  at  the  age  of  79.     With  many 
defects,  this  picture,  which  is  of  great 
size,  is  a  remarkable  performance. — 
BomaninOf      St.      George's     various 
Martyrdoms.     The  fall  of  the  Manna 
in  the  Desert,  begim  by  Felice  Bru- 
sa^orziy    and    completed    by     Ottini 
and  OrhettOy  his  pupils. — CarotOy  the 
Annunciation;    St.    Ursula,    in    dis- 
temper.— II  MorettOy  the  Virgin  and 
4  female  Saints. — Oirolamo  de*  lAhri^ 
the  Virgin,  two  Bishops,  and  three 
Angels.      Lanzi  points    this    out    as 
being  a  masterpiece  in  deUcacy  of  work 
and  beauty  of  design. — Bru^asorziy  the 
Three  Archangels,  supposed  to  have 
been  executed  in  rivalry  of  the  preceding 
picture. — Jacopo  TintorettOy  the  Bap- 
tism in  the  Jordan ;   a  fine  work  in 
bad  preservation,  copied  in  mosaic  at 
S.  Marco  in  Venice.    This  church  con- 
tains a  profusion  of  other  paintings, 
statues,  and  architectural  ornaments. 
The    campanile,   by  Sanmicheliy  is  a 
noble  structure. 

Ch.  of  San  Giovanni  in  VaUe^ 
on  the  hill  beyond  the  Adige:  prin- 
cipally remarkable  for  its  crypt,  which 
contains    two    very    curious     Chris- 


VEsBfUN  I*R0V.        iloute  29. —  Verona — Churches. 


SOS 


tian  tombs,  in  white  marble,  of  an 
early  date.  Both  are  covered  with 
sculptiires :  upon  the  one  believed  to 
be  the  most  ancient,  the  prominent 
group  includes  our  Lord  upon  a  hill, 
whence  issue  four  streams,  which 
represent  the  four  rivers  of  Para- 
dise. Nearly  the  same  occurs  in  the 
several  ancient  mosaics  at  MHan, 
Havenna,  and  Rome.  St.  Peter  is 
on  one  side  and  St.  Andrew  on  the 
other; — our  Lord  and  the  Woman  of 
Samaria ; — the  Cure  of  the  Demoniac ; 
— Moses  receivmg  the  Law ; — ^Daniel  in 
the  Lion's  Den.  What  might  puzzle-the 
antiquary  are  two  figures  of  monks  j 
but  these  appear  to  have  been  added 
about  the  year  1495,  when  the  tomb 
was  discovered.  The  other  is  in  .a  bet- 
ter taste  as  to  art,  but  far  less  interest- 
ing as  to  subjects :  it  represents  a  de- 
ceased husband  and  wife,  with  St.  Peter 
and  St.  Paul. 

Ch.  of  Santa  Maria  in  Organo^  also 
on  the  1.  bank  of  the  Adige,  a  very 
old  church,  upon  the  site  of  some 
still  more  ancient  building,  called  the 
Organwm^  of  the  time  of  the  Lower 
Empire.  What  this  building  was  has 
been  much  disputed  by  antiquaries.  It 
is  doubtful  whether  it  was  an  arsenal 
or  a  prison.  The  present  edifice  was 
principally  btlilt  in  1481,  as  appears  by 
an  inscription  upon  the  first  column 
on  the  rt.  hand  towards  the  entry: 
the  fagade  is  by  SanmicheU,  Within 
the  church,  the  following  objects  are 
worthy  of  remark : — the  intarsiatura, 
or  inlaid  wood-work  of  the  choir,  by 
JVa'  Giovanni^  an  Olivetan  monk,  to 
which  order  this  church  belonged,  was 
executed  in  1499.  Fra^  Giovanni  is 
considered  as  the  greatest  master  in 
this  branch  of  art.  In  the  Chapel  of 
the  Holy  Sacrament  is  a  candelabrum 
of  walnut-tree  wood,  carved  with  beau- 
tiful grotesques.  Paintings :  G-.  de  lA- 
hri,  the  Virgin,  in  fresco. — Brentana, 
the  Discovery  of  the  Holy  Cross  by  the 
Empress  Helena. — GiolfinOj  Subjects 
from  the  Old  and  New  Testament. — 
Farinati,  St.  Peter  sinking  on  the 
Waters;  St.  Gregory  feeding  the  Poor. 
— Domenico  Brusasorzi^  the  Resurrec- 


tion of  Lazarus ;  the  Pool  of  Bethesda ; 
St.  Jerome  and  St.  John. — Ca/roto,  the 
Virgin,  St.  Vincent,  and  St.  Maur. 
The  sacristy,  according  to  Vasari  one 
of  the  most  beautiful  in  Italy,  besides 
the  intarsiatura  and  carving  of  Fra^ 
Giovanniy  contains  some  "  beautiful 
studies,  three  half-figures  in  every  com- 
partment (of  which  there  are  fourteen) 
of  monks  of  the  Olivetan  order,  all 
in  white  dresses,  hooded,  reUeved  on 
blue  grounds,  and  all  in  the  most  per- 
fect condition.  Eighteen  lunettes  con- 
tain each  two  portraits  of  the  popes 
who  have  been  elected  out  of  tlus 
order.  The  blue  grounds  have  been 
reHeved  by  gilding,  and  have  stood 
perfectly.  These  works  are  all  by  Mo' 
roni"  Among  the  portraits  is  that  of 
Fra^  Giovanni f  over  the  door  leading  out 
of  the  sacristy.  In  the  adjoining  ceme- 
tery are  curious  ancient  tombs.  The 
campanile  was  erected  in  1533  by  the 
same  Era'  Giovanni. 

Sta.  Maria  delld  Scala.  The  ex- 
terior is  in  a  cinquecento  style,  by  JFVa' 
Giocondo.  It  was  first  founded  by  Can- 
grande,  and  a  fresco  upon  a  wall  which 
fo  rmed  part  of  the  original  structure 
displays  curious  portraits  of  his  nephews 
Alberto  and  Mastino  adoring  the  Vir- 
gin, but  so  covered  up  as  to  be  seen 
with  difficulty.  The  church  contains 
the  tomb  of  Scipione  Mafiei,  the  his- 
torian of  Verona,  perhaps  the  most 
able  and  judicious  of  Italian  antiquaries, 
and  who  was  also  a  dramatic  poet  of 
considerable  merit.  He  died  in  1755. 
There  is  a  good  monument  to  Bishop 
Ronconi  (1816),  and  some  curious  early 
frescoes  relative  to  St.  Antony,  near 
the  high  altar. 

Ch.  of  SS.  Nazaro  e  Celso,  not 
far  from  the  Porta  Vescovo,  in  the 
suburb  leading  to  Vicenza.  The  an- 
cient monastery  to  which  this  church 
belonged  is  partly  destroyed,  but  in 
and  about  it  are  some  remarkable 
reUcs  of  antiqmty.  In  a  small  chapel, 
excavated  in  the  side  of  an  adjoining 
hill,  are  frescoes,  probably  of  the 
sixth  century,  and-  good  specimens  of 
the  style  of  that  age.  The  subjects 
also  which  they  represent  are    more 

p3 


306 


Monte  29. —  Verona  — Churches, 


Sect.  IV^. 


than  usually  yaried.  The  church  is 
partly  from  the  designs  of  Sanmicheli, 
but  luifortunately  mutilated  in  their 
execution,  the  five  arches  which  he 
contemplated  having  been  reduced  to 
three.  It  is  filled  with  paintings 
by  Brusaaorzi ;  —  amongst  these  his 
favourite  subject  of  a  Choir  of  Angels, 
painted  on  the  doors  of  the  organ. — 
JPaolo  Farinati  also  contributed  much 
to  the  adornment  of  this  church.  His 
fresco  of  Adam  and  Eve  is  thought  to  be 
one  of  his  best  productions. — Canerio, 
the  Descent  of  the  Holy  Ghost.  The 
handsome  chapel  of  S.Biagio  (St.  Blaise) 
at  the  extremity  of  the  1.  transept,  is  pre- 
ceded by  another  of  more  recent  date, 
painted  by  Falconetti.  The  chapel  of  St. 
Biagio  is  Gothic,  its  walls  covered  with 
frescoes,  some  of  which  have  been  attri- 
buted to  Mantegna.  The  fine  picture 
of  St.  Biagio  and  St.  Sebastian,  over 
the  altar,  is  by  Monsignori  :  the  figures 
of  the  female  saints,  and  especially  of 
the  patron  saint  holding  a  card  (the 
instrument  of  his  martyrdom),  are  very 
beautiful ;  the  predella  beneath,  repre- 
senting the  martyrdom  of  several  saints, 
is  a  good  work  by  Qirolamo  dai  Libri. 

Ch.  of  8a»  SebastianOf  formerly 
belonging  to  the  Jesuits,  and  exhibit- 
ing that  excess  of  decoration  for  which 
the  churches  of  this  order  are  remark- 
able. The  front  is  after  the  designs  of 
Sanmichelit  and  very  magnificent.  Al- 
most all  the  marbles  found  in  the  pro- 
vince of  Verona  are  employed  in  the 
sumptuous  columns  and  decorations  of 
the  altars,  the  principal  one  being  from 
the  design  of  Padre  FozzL  There 
are  several  paintings,  but  none  of  great 
note.  In  the  adjoining  buildings  is 
the  mimicipal  libraiy,  containing  about 
12,000  volumes. 

Ch.  of  San  Stefano,  on  the  1.  bank 
of  the  Adige,  near  the  Ponte  di  Piefcra, 
built  in  the  11th  century,  has  been 
much  modernized.  Its  porch  resembles 
that  of  the  cathedral ;  and  the  central 
octagon  tower  also  retains  its  original 
appearance.  Twenty  of  the  Bishops  of 
Verona  are  buried  here;  and  it  has  been 
doubted  whether  it  was  not  the  original 
cathedral.     There  is  a  marble  throne 


for  the  bishop  still  existing.  The  crypt 
may,  perhaps,  dat«  from  the  7th  cen- 
tury, having  every  mark  of  early  Chris- 
tian antiquity :  so  have  also  two  very 
remarkable  sarcophagi ;  the  one  of  Pla- 
cidia,  daughter  of  Eudoxia  and  Valen- 
tinian  III.,  and  wife  of  Olibrius  Em- 
peror of  the  East;  the  other  (as  is 
supposed)  contains  the  remains  of  Mar- 
cian,  a  patrician,  A.D.  427. — Amongst 
the  paintings  are —  Caroto,  the  Virgin 
between  St.  Peter  and  St.  Andrew. — 
GfiolfinOf  the  Virgin  with  St.  Maur  and 
St.  Simplicianus,  and  St.  Placidua. — 
Dom.  JBrusasorzi,  a  very  fine  fiasco:  St. 
Stephen  preceded  by  the  Holy  Inno- 
cents ;  near  here  are  remains  of  a  fresco 
of  the  14th  centy.,  representing  a  Ma- 
donna and  3  Saints.  Our  Lord  bear- 
ing the  Cross.  The  Adoration  of  the 
Magi.  —  Ottini,  the  Massacre  of  the 
Innocents. — Orbetto,  the  Forty  Mar- 
tyrs ;  one  of  his  best  works. 

Ch.  of  San  Tomaso  Caniuariense^ 
in  the  island  of  the  Adige.  Tebaldo, 
a  Bishop  of  Verona,  chose  Thomas 
k  Becket  for  the  patron  of  this  church, 
in  1316,  which  has  been  repeatedly 
(^tered.  The  front  is  of  the  15th 
century,  partly  from  the  designs  of 
Sanmicheli:  had  these  been  followed 
the  church  would  have  been  one  of  the 
finest  of  his  productions.  Here  is  the 
tomb  of  Oiovan*  Battista  Beket  Fahri- 
anOf  who  claims  to  be  of  the  family  of 
the  Archbishop,  perhaps  a  descendant 
of  some  of  those  who  followed  him 
into  exile.  Paintings :  Ori^/^o,  Martha 
and  Mary.  —  Felice  Brusasorzif  the 
high-altar  piece  ;  the  Virgin,  with 
St.  Thomas  and  St.  Catherine. — Fari^ 
nati,  St.  Jerome  in  Meditation :  good. 
In  the  sacristy  is  a  fine  painting,  which 
has  been  ascribed  either  to  Caroio 
or  Garofalo.  It  represents  the  Infant 
Saviour  and  St.  John  playing  before 
the  Virgin.  The  foreground  is  rich  in 
flowers,  the  pink  or  ga/rofaUno  being 
conspicuous  amongst  them. 

Ch.  of  San  Zenone.—  This  is  the  most 
interesting  example  in  Verona  of  the 
Ecclesiastical  architecture  of  the  middle 
ages,  and  that  which  has  undergone 
least  change  in  the  interior.     It  stands 


VENETiAif  pROV.  '    MovJte  29. —  Verona — San  Zenone, 


307 


at  the  "W.  end  of  the  city  near  the  gate 
leading  to  Brescia.  Intelligent  sacriB- 
tan. 

The  first  church  huilt  on  the  site, 
in  the  beginning  of  the  9th  cen- 
tury, by  Rotaldus  Bishop  of  Ve- 
rona, was  much  injured  by  the 
Hungarians  924.  In  961  Otho  II. 
passed  through  Verona  on  his  way  to 
Rome,  and  left  a  rich  donation  in  the 
Hands  of  the  bishop  for  its  restoration. 
The  new  church,  however,  was  not 
begun  till  1138,  and  not  finished  before 
1178.  The  plan  of  the  edifice  is  that 
of  the  Latin  Basilica,  without  tran- 
septs: the  style  is  Lombard.  The  front 
is  of  marble :  the  sides  are  constructed 
with  alternate  layers  of  marble  and 
brick. — "  The  front  may  be  cited  as  a 
good  example  of  the  early  architecture 
of  this  part  of  Italy :  the  general  idea 
is  that  of  a  lofty  gable  with  a  lean-to  on 
each  side,  which,  being  the  natural  re- 
sult of  the  construction,  is,  if  well  pro- 
portioned, a  pleasing  form." — Woods. 
The  principal  feature  of  the  front  is  one 
of  the  earliest  wheel  of  fortune  win- 
dows. It  was  executed  by  a  sculptor 
of  the  name  of  Briolottts,  who  also 
built  the  baptistery.  An  inscription 
in  the  baptistery  records  this  fact, 
and  speaks  of  the  window  as  a  work 
which  excited  wonder  in  those  times. 
Its  allegorical  meaning  is  here  made 
sufficiently  clear  by  the  King  at  the 
top  of  the  wheel,  and  the  prostrate 
wretch  at  the  bottom,  and  the  verses 
both  within  and  without,  by  which  For- 
tune speaks  and  addresses  the  beholders. 
Maffei  gives  the  inscriptions : — 

£n  ego  fortuna  moderor  mortalibus  ana 
Elevo,  depono,bona  cunctu,  vel  mala  dono. 

This  is  on  the  outer  circumference ; 

within  is — 

Induo  nudatos,  denudo  veate  paratos, 
In  me  confidit,  si  quis,  derisQs  abibit. 

The  portal  is  a  very  rich  specimen  of 
those  of  the  Italian  churches  in  the  12th 
century.  If  in  its  decorations  some  lu- 
dicrous images  are  retained;  the  greater 
part  of  them  attempt  to  imitate  the  more 
correct  models  of  the  Boman  bas-reUefs. 
All  the  figures  are  rudely  sculptured ; 
but  the  arabesques,  which  enrich  the 


divisions  of  the  different  compart- 
ments, are  beautifully  designed,  and 
not  badly  executed.  The  rude  bas- 
relief  over  the  door  is  said  to  represent 
a  deputation  which  was  sent  to  San 
Zeno  by  the  Emperor  Gallienus.  Im- 
mediately above  the  arch  of  the  porch 
is  a  hand  with  the  fore  and  middle  fin- 
gers extended,  and  the  two  others  bent, 
in  the  act  of  the  Latin  Benediction* 
On  the  flanks  of  the  portal  appear 
subjects  taken  from  the  Old  and  New 
Testament, — the  history  of  Adam  and 
Eve  on  the  rt.  hand,  the  principal 
events  in  the  life  of  our  Saviour  on  the 
other,  explained  in  leonine  verses  in 
short  epigraphs.  With  these  are 
blended,  as  U£(ual,  subjects  taken  from 
ordinary  life,  and  illustrating  the  man- 
ners of  the  times, — ^knights  jousting  at 
each  other ;  and  below  the  first  series 
is  a  representation  of  the  chace,  popu- 
larly called  the  Chace  of  Theodoric. 
The  feet  of  the  himter,  who  is  in  Boman 
costume,  are  placed  in  stirrups;  and 
this,  according  to  Mafiei,  is  the  most 
ancient  piece  of  sculpture  in  which 
they  are  exhibited.  The  dogs  have 
seized  the  stag,  and  at  the  extremity 
is  a  grinning  demon  waiting  for  the 
hunter.  Some  lines  underneath  de- 
signate him  as  Theodoric,  and,  accord- 
ing to  the  vulgar  notion,  the  infernal 
spirits  furnished  him  with  dogs  and 
horses.  This  arose  probably  from  his 
being  an  Arian.  The  bronze  doors  of  the 
9th  cent,  are  very  curious,  consisting  of 
a  series  of  plates,  48  in  all,  fixed  on  a 
pinewood  frame;  the  reUefs  on  them 
represent,  in  the  rudest  style  of  art, 
scriptural  subjects,  and  are  perhaps 
amongst  the  earliest  specimens,  as  they 
are  amongst  the  rudest,  of  Christian 
scvdpture.  The  pillars  of  the  portal, 
as  usual,  rest  on  the  backs  of  animals 
— ^Uons,  symbolical  of  the  vigilance  and 
strength  of  the  church.  Bound  the  arch 
of  the  portal  are  symbolical  representa- 
tions of  the  months  of  the  year,  begin- 
ning with  March.  It  is  to  be  regretted 
that  this  porch  is  much  neglected ;  and 
the  group  of  Theodoric  and  the  demon, 
in  particular,  is  defaced  by  the  urchins 
who  have  pimched  holes  in  the  marble. 


308 


Rottte  29.—  Vei*ona — San  Zeimie, 


Sect.  IV. 


in  order  to  "  smell  the  brimstone " 
which  it  is  populariy  supposed  the 
fiend  gives  out  br  this  process. 

The  interior  of  the  church  is  striking, 
from  the  grandeur  of  its  proportions 
and  its  eleyation.     The  nare  is  high, 
and  is  divided  from  the  aisles,  which 
are  low,  by  alternate  pillars  and  piers 
supporting  semicircular  arches  in  pairs. 
From  the  piers   ascend  ribs,  in  the 
form  of  rude  Doric  pilasters,  to  sup- 
port the  roof  of  the  nave ;    two  only 
of  these  ascending  shafts   support  a 
direct  arch  across  the  nave,  and  the 
arrangement  is  not  calculated  to  sup- 
port any  vaulting.    The  roof  of  larch 
IS  exceedingly  curious,  and  elaborately 
ornamented,  painted  in  faint  colours ; 
at  the  extremity  of  the  nave  is  the 
raised  ch.,  which  is  reached  by  a  dou- 
ble flight   of  handsome   steps,  as  in 
some   of   the    ancient    basilicas  ;   the 
choir  or  tribune  which  terminates  it 
is  in  the  pointed  style,  and  covered 
with  frescoes  ;  but  this  part  of  the  ch. 
was  rebuilt  in  the  15th  centy.    The 
windows,  like  those  in  the  early  basi- 
licas, are  of  small  dimensions.     Many 
curious    relics    of   antiquity  are  dis- 
posed about  the  interior.    Of  these,  the 
strangest  is  the  statue  of  San  Zeno,  sit- 
ting in  a  chair,  in  the  upi)er  ch.     San 
Y     2ieno  is  the  patron  of  Verona ;  he  be- 
came its  bishop  in  a.d.  362,  in  the  reign 
of  Julian  the  Apostate.    He  was  an 
African  by  birth ;    and  the    painted 
statue  represents  him  as   brown  as  a 
mulatto,  though  not  with  a  negro  phy- 
siognomy.  He  is  in  the  attitude  of  giv- 
ing his  benediction.    On  the  opposite 
side  is  St.  Proculus,  executed  in  1392. 
On  the  1.  on  entering  the  church  is  the 
Coppa  di  San  Zenone^  a  vase  formed  out 
of  a  smgle  block  of  red  porphyry,  the 
outer  diameter  of  which  is  18  ft.  4  in.; 
the  inner  8  ft.  8  in. ;  and  the  pedestal 
is  formed  out  of  another  mass  of  the 
same  material.    It  is  of  high  antiquity, 
and,    according    to    the   legend,    was 
brought  by  the  fiend  from  Syria,  at  the 
behest  of  the  bishop.      It  originally 
stood  on  the  outside  of  the  church,  and 
Maffei  supposes  it  to  iiave  been  in- 
tended for  washing  the  feet  of  the  pil- 


grims before  entering  the  sacred  edifice. 
On  the  wall  of  the  S.  aisle  are  a  series 
of  rude  statues  of  Christ  and  the 
Apostles,  of  the  14th  century. 

Many  of  the  altars  are  adorned  with 
pillars,  taken,  probably,  from  some 
more  ancient  edifice.  In  particular,  the 
Altar  of  the  Virgin,  2nd  on  rt.,  may  be 
remarked ;  the  columns  here  are  com- 
posed of  four  smaller  pillars  fastened  in 
a  kind  of  true-lovers'  knot,  and  resting 
on  a  winged  bull  and  lion.  A  Roman 
inscription  of  Augusta  Atilia  Valeria, 
on  the  steps  leading  to  the  Tribune,  is 
one  of  the  few  early  Christian  ones 
which  formerly  abounded  in  this  city. 
Several  frescoes,  of  perhaps  the  12th  or 
13th  centy.,  have  been  recovered  from 
under  the  whitewash,  one  representing 
the  great  flood  of  the  Adige  in  1239, 
and  probably  coeval  with  the  event. 
A  bas-relief,  representing  two  cocks 
carrying  a  fox  dangling  from  a  pole, 
considered  as  symbolical  of  vigilaiioe 
overcoming  craft.  There  are  few  pic- 
tures worthy  of  notice.  The  best  is  by 
Mcmtegim^  behind  the  high  altar,  at 
the  end  of  the  choir,  and  amongst 
the  finest  works  of  the  master,  consist- 
ing originally  of  six  compartments, 
wlich  were  all  carried  to  Paris;  only 
three  have  been  restored,  but  these 
the  most  important.  The  center  one 
represents  the  Virgin  having  the  infant 
Christ  on  her  knees,  enthroned  with 
Angels ;  rich  architecture,  adorned  in 
front  with  festoons  of  fruit,  surrounds 
the  composition ;  the  second,  SS.  Peter, 
Paul,  and  John;  and  the  third,  SS. 
John  the  Baptist,  Lawrence,  and  Bene- 
dict. There  is  also  a  remarkable  sarco- 
phagus in  the  crypt,  perhaps  of  the  9th 
cent.,  serving  as  an  altar-table :  it  has 
sculptures  on  3  of  its  sides. 

Under  the  choir  there  is  a  spacious 
crypt,  the  semicircular  groined  roof  of 
which  is  supported  by  40  pillars,  with 
capitals  of  various  rorms,  the  main 
piers  on  each  side  of  the  choir  being 
continued  downwards  through  it. 
In  its  recesses  are  dispersed  nume- 
rous fragments  of  ancient  frescoes  and 
bas-reliefs,  the  tombs  of  Eupreprius 
and    Cricinus,    and  of   SS,   Proculus 


VENirriAN  pROV.        ^ite  29. —  Vei*ona — Palaces. 


809 


and  Agabius,  bishops  of  Yerona,  and 
the  stone  sarcophagus  contaming  the 
bones  of  St.  Zeno,  discovered  in  1838. 
The  double  flights  of  steps  leading 
from  the  nave  to  the  crypt  deserve 
notice  from  the  handsome  coupled 
shafts  of  red  Verona  marble  which 
support  the  two  arches  on  the  N.  side. 

The  ch.  of  St.  Zeno  is  so  much  below 
the  level  of  the  surrounding  ground, 
that  it  is  entered  by  10  descending  steps. 
The  effect  on  entering  by  the  principal 
door,  and  looking  down  into  and  along 
the  nave  below,  is  very  grand. 

The  cloister  of  S.  Zenone  consists  of 
brick  arches,  pointed  on  the  E.  andW. 
sides,  circular  on  the  two  others,  sup- 
ported on  coupled  columns  of  red  mar- 
ble, united  by  a  little  appendage  of  the 
same  substance  at  the  necking  of  the 
column  and  at  the  upper  torus  of  the 
base.  On  the  N.  side  is  a  projecting 
edifice,  sustained  by  double  columns  of 
different  diameters,  those  at  the  comers 
being  more  massive.  It  served  as  a  lava- 
tory, and  formerly  contained  a  large 
basin  for  the  monks  to  wash  before  en- 
tering the  refectory.  The  cloister  con- 
tains many  tombs,  some  which  always 
stood  here,  others  brought  of  late  years 
from  suppressed  churches.  Here  are  the 
tombs  of  Oittseppe  della  Scala,  of  whom 
Dante  speaks,  and  of  Ubertino  della 
Scalay  superior  of  the  Benedictines, 
and  prior  of  this  monastery.  This 
beautiful  cloister  is  falling  into  ruin; 
the  pavement  destroyed,  and  the  monu- 
ments mutilated.  On  one  of  the  walls 
is  a  fresco  of  the  Infant  Saviour  by 
Mantegna. 

Adjoining  the  cloisters  is  an  old 
church,  built  in  the  same  manner  as 
the  one  which  stands  close  by  the  ca- 
thedral, with  groinedsemicircular  arches 
supported  on  four  pillars,  all  unlike, 
dividing  it  into  nine  equal  squares. 

CThe  campanile  or  bell-tower  of  San 
Zenone  is  one  of  the  most  beautifiil  edi- 
fices of  its  kind,  and  one  of  the  finest 
objects  in  the  very  varied  landscape 
about  Verona.  Begun  by  Abbot  Albeii- 
cus  in  1045,  it  was  completed  in  1178, 
and  is  entirely  detached  from  the  ch. 
at  its  eastern  extremity  ;  it  is  built  of 


alternate  zones  of  brick  and  mdrble, 
surmounted  by  a  double  gallery  of 
Lombard  arches,  and  these  again  by  a 
low  conical  spire  and  4  turrets. 

The  adjoining  cemetery,  from  which 
the  church  and  its  campanile  may  be 
conveniently  examined,  contains  an 
ancient  and  singular  monument.  De- 
scending by  a  flight  of  steps,  at  the 
bottom  stands  a  mediaeval  sarcophagus. 
Over  the  entrance  is  an  inscription,  ap- 
propriating it  to  Pepin  King  of  Italy,  the 
son  of  Charlemagne,  who  died  at  Milan 
A.D.  81,0.  The  urn  is  remarkable,  and 
evidently  belonged  to  some  person  of 
distinction;  but  the  inscription  is 
modem,  and  was  put  up  by  a  priest 
in  the  course  of  the  last  century.  The 
water  found  in  the  tomb,  caused  by 
the  percolation  of  the  rain,  is  thought 
to  possess  medicinal  virtues  by  the 
lower  orders.^ 

"  Sanmicheli's  most  admired  works 
are  his  Palaces  at  Verona ;  the  general 
style  of  composition,  very  different  from 
that  of  the  palaces  of  Florence  and 
Bome,  is  marked  by  the  use  of  a  base- 
ment of  rustic  work,  wherefrom  an 
order  rises,  often  with  arched  windows, 
in  which  he  greatly  deHghted,  and 
these  were  connected  with  the  order 
after  the  manner  of  an  arcade,  the 
whole  being  crowned  with  the  proper 
entablature.  The  fa9ade  of  the  Pompei 
palace  is  a  good  example." —  Owilt. 
Palazzo  Bevilaquaf  in  the  Corso,  would 
have  been  beautiful;  but,  like  our 
WhitehaD,  it  stands  merely  as  a  spe- 
cimen of  an  entire  design.  It  did 
contain  a  splendid  collection  of  an- 
tiquities, which  have  been  dispersed. 
They  are  now  chiefly  in  the  Q-lyptotheca 
at  Munich.    Near  it  stands  the 

Palazzo  Canossa,  also  by  Sanmicheli. 
This  palace,  belonging  to  one  of  the 
most  influential  fammes  of  Verona, 
was  begun  in  1527,  by  Ludovico  di 
Canossa,  Bishop  of  Bayeux,  in 
France.  His  armorial  bearings  are 
on  the  front.  It  was  not  completed 
till  1560.  It  contains  some  tolerable 
paintings ;  the  best  are  by  JSi-usa' 
sorci,  Farinati,  Orbetti,  OiolJinOy  Pisa' 
nellOf  &c.      The  collection  of  Mont- 


310 


Boiite  29. —  Verona — Palaces — Theatres, 


Sect.  IV. 


Bolca  fishes  and  other  fossil  remains 
here  has  been  transferred  to  the  Fina- 
coteca. 

Palazzo  I*ortalupi,  near  the  latter. 
Its  Ionic  front,  which  is  of  the  18th 
centy.,  is  handsome,  but  oyercharged 
with  ornament. 

Palazzo  Maffei^  now  Tresa,  in 
the  Piazza  delle  Erbe,  a  noble  eleva- 
tion  of  three  stories,  more  laboured 
than  the  style  of  SanmicheH,  but  yery 
effective;  the  construction  of  the 
staircase  is  remarkably  bold.  The 
collection  of  the  Maffei  family  is  dis- 
persed, but  one  good  statue  of  Serapis 
remains.  The  Maffei  family  of  Verona 
has  recently  become  extinct  in  the  male 
line. 

Opposite  to  the  amphitheatre,  in  the 
Piazza  di  Brik.,  is  the  Palazzo  della 
Chran  Chkardia^  a  fine  building.  It  was 
built  by  Andrea  Midano,  a  pupil  of 
Sanmicheli,  as  appears  from  an  in- 
scription lately  discovered. 

Palazzo  GHustif  on  the  declivity  of 
the  hill  overlooking  the  Adige.  The 
gardens  are  weU  laid  out,  and  the  view 
over  Verona  is  very  fine.  The  front 
was  painted  by  P.  Farinati.  It  is 
now  occupied  by  public  offices. 

Palazzo  degli  JEmiliif  near  the  ch. 
of  S.  Anastasia.  Some  good  pictures ; 
amongst  them  the  Adoration  of  the 
Magi,  by  Orhetto, 

Palazzo  MiniscalcM.  The  exterior 
is  painted  in  fresco  by  Tullio  ^  India 
and  AUprandi.  Amongst  other  sub- 
jects is  the  feast  of  Damocles.  Under 
the  stables  of  this  palace  are  Boman 
vaults  used  as  prisons  by  JSccelino  da 
Itomano.  The  Moscardi  Collection  or 
Museum,  a  good  collection  of  armour, 
amongst  which  is  that  of  Cangrande 
della  Scala,  is  now  here.  The  son  of 
the  present  owner,  Count  Miniscalchi 
Erizzo,  has  also  added  to  the  treasures 
of  his  parental  house  a  valuable  collec- 
tion of  Oriental  MSS.  made  during  his 
travels  in  the  East. 

Palazzo  Catarinettit  near  the  latter, 
is  a  good  specimen  of  the  house  archi- 
tecture of  the  15th  and  16th  centuries ; 
the  balcony  at  the  corner  of  the  street 
is  very  handsome. 


Palazzo  Ouastaterza,  now  Spara- 
vieri.  One  of  the  most  gracefrd  produc- 
tions of  Sanmicheli:  the  management 
of  the  rustic  work  is  peouUarly  able. 

Palazzo  Ghiarienti,  Painted  on  the 
outside  by  Farinati.  ^ 

Palazzo  8agramo80.  Several  good 
pieces  by  Orhetto  and  Felice  Bruaa^ 
8orci.  JS'ear  it  are  some  remains  of 
Boman  walls. 

Palazzo  Qazzola.  An  extensive  col- 
lection of  Monte  Bolca  fishes,  and 
other  geological  specimens. 

Theatres.  The  Teatro  Filarmonico 
is  open  during  the  autimin  and  Gar- 
nival  :  for  operas  only  during  the  for- 
mer, for  operas  and  ballets  during  the 
latter  season. 

The  other  theatres  are — the  Teatro 
NuovOy  in  thePiazzaNavona;  the  Teatro 
Valle;  and  the  Teatro  Castellani,  an 
open-air  one,  near  La  Ghranguardia. 

Verona  and  Shakspeare  are,  of  course, 
associated  in  the  mind.  The  MonteecU 
belonged  to  the  GhibeUines ;  and  as 
they  joined  with  the  Cappelletti  in  ex- 
pelling Azo  di  Ferrara  (some  short 
time  previous  to  1207),  it  is  probable 
that  both  were  of  the  same  party.  The 
laconic  mention  of  their  families,  which 
Dante  places  in  the  mouth  of  Sordello, 
proves  their  celebrity : — 

"  Vieni  a  veder  Montecclii  e  Cappelletti 
Monaldi  e  Filippeschi,  uom  senza  cura. 
Color  gi&  tristi,  e  costor  con  sospetti." 

Pwgatono,  vi.  107. 

The  tragic  history  of  Bomeo  and 
Juliet  cannot  be  traced  higher  in  any 
written  document  than  the  time  of 
Lungi  di  Porto,  a  novehst  of  the  16tli 
cent.  The  Ca^a de^  Ca(ppellettiiXiQiw  Os- 
teria  del  CappeUoy  an  inn  for  vetturini, 
in  'the  Via  Cappello,  a  tall  old  red 
brick  building,  with  a  hat  carved  on 
the  keystone  of  the  doorway,  may  have 
been  the  dwelling  of  the  family.  It 
had  originally  a  fine  garden,  now 
built  over.  "With  respect  to  the 
tomb  of  Juliet,  it  certainly  was  shown 
in  the  last  century,  before  Shak- 
speare became  generally  known  to 
the  Italians.  That  tomb,  however,  has 
long  since  been  destroyed  j  but  the  pre- 
sent one,  in  the  garden  of  the  Orfano- 


Venetiajt  ProV.     HotUe  29. —  Verona-'Ufeighhourhood, 


311 


trofio^  does  just  as  well.  It  is  of  red 
"Verona  marble,  and,  before  it  was  pro- 
moted to  its  present  honour,  was  used 
as  a  washing-trougb.  Maria  Louisa 
got  a  bit  of  it,  which  she  caused  to  be 
divided  into  hearts  and  gems,  elegant 
necklaces,  bracelets,  &c.,  and  many  other 
sentimental  young  and  elderly  ladies 
have  followed  her  Majesty's  example. 

The  Public  Cemetery^  outside  the 
Porta  Vittoria,  contains  several  good 
modem  monuments ;  like  those  of 
Brescia  and  Yicenza,  it  is  in  the  form 
of  a  large  square  surrounded  by  arcades 
with  vaults  and  monuments,  the  poorer 
classes  being  interred  in  the  centre. 

JSr.  F,  Munster  is  a  goodjman  for 
books,  photographs,  and  general  in- 
formation. 

Cesconi,  for  old  books. 

Salesio  Fegrassi,  for  marble  carving 
applied  to  chimney-pieces,  friezes, 
and  works  of  art. 

Antonio  Conconif  for  specimens  of 
local  marbles. 


Plan  for  visiting  the  Sights  of  Verona 
in  1  or  2  days,  and  in  topographical 
order* 

Ch.  of  iS^.  Anastasia;  DuoMO;  Vesco- 
vado,  and  Biblioteca  Capitolarej  Ch. 
of  S.  Eufemia;  Piazza  dei  Signori; 
Pal.  del  Consiglio  ;  Piazza  delle  JSrhe  ; 
Ch.  of  S.  Maria  TAntica,  and  Tombs 
OP  THE  ScAiJGEfiS ;  Corso ;  Arco  dei 
Borsari;  Piazza  Bra;  Arena;  Arco 
de'  Gavi ;  Museo  Lapidario;  Castel 
Vecchio,  and  Bridge ;  Chs.  of  S.  Ze- 
NONE,  of  8.  Bernardino;  Porta  Nuova. 

Ch.  of  S.  Peemo  Maggioee  ;  Ponte 
alle  Navi  j  Pal.  Pompei  j  Pinacoteca, 
and  other  collections  in  it ;  Campo 
Santo  ;  Ch.  of  S.  Tomaso  Cantuarense; 
Pal.  Qiusti  and  Gardens ;  Chs.  of  S8. 
Nazzaro  e  CeUo,  8.  Maria  in  Organo, 
8.  Giorgio,  and  8.  Giovanni  in  Valle  ; 
Barracks  and  Castel  di  S.  Pietro  j  Ch. 
of  8.  Giorgio  Maggiore ;  Castel  di  S. 
Felice ;  Ponte  di  Pietra. 


Neighhowrhood  of  Verona. 

Towards  the  Adige,  and  on  the  N.,  are 

Gargagnano,  where  Dante  is  said 
to  have  composed  his  Purgatorio,  and 
where  he  possessed  some  property,  a 
villa,  which  afterwards  passed  into  the 
8erego  Alighieri  family.  It  is  in  a  wild 
and  picturesque  situation. 

8anf  Ambrogio,  a  little  to  the  E.  of 
the  road,  about  2  m.  before  reaching 
Yolargne,  on  the  road  frqpi  Yerona  to 
the  Tyrol :  near  it  are  quarries  from 
whence  much  of  the  red  marble  of  Ye- 
rona is  obtained.  The  workmen  of  these 
quarries  are  remarkable  for  their  clever- 
ness as  masons  and  sculptors,  which 
arts,  as  at  Como,  they  follow  from  fa- 
ther to  son. 

8an  Giorgio,  a  mile  and  a  half  N.E. 
of  St.  Ambrogio,  upon  a  lofty  hill^  ap- 
parently easy  of  ascent,  but  in  fact 
very  difficult,  whence  it  has  the  name 
of  "  Inganna  poltrone."  Here  is  a 
good  Lombard  church,  where  columns 
and  inscriptions  of  Liutprand  were 
found. 

The  mountainous  districts  to  the  N"., 
the  Monti  Lessini,  afford  a  variety  of 
interesting  excursions,  such  as  that  to 
the  Ponte  di  Veja,  to  which  a  road 
passes  up  the  Vol  Pantena,  through 
the  pleasant  villages  of  Quinto,  Grez^ 
zano,  and  Lugo,  It  can  be  taken  on 
horseback  or  in  a  light  carriage. 

At  Quinto,  on  his  way  to  the  Ponte, 
the  traveller  should  stop  for  the  pur-" 
pose  of  visiting  the  sanctuary  of  8anta 
Maria  delta  8tella.  Beneath  the  church 
is  a  very  curious  Koman  crypt,  which 
the  Italian  antiquaries  have  supposed 
to  be  a  cave  dedicated  to  Mercurius 
Trophonius  (a  creation  of  their  own), 
but  which,  in  1187,  was  consecrated  by 
Pope  Urban  III.  A  heathen  altar  or 
Roman  sarcophagus,  now  in  the  crypt, 
may  have  been  brought  from  its  vici- 
nity. The  floor  exhibits  the  remains 
of  a  beautiful  mosaic :  a  stream  of  very 
pure  and  limpid  water,  which  still  flows 
into  the  crypt  in  the  original  Roman 
conduit,  and  the  remains  of  other  Ro- 
man constructions  adjoining,  may  pos- 
sibly lead  to  the  supposition  that  the 


312 


Soute  29. — Mo7ite  Bolca, 


Sect.  IV. 


cave  of  Trophonius  was  originally,  a 
bath. 

Grezzana,  in  the  Val  Pantena. 

The  Villa  Cuzzano,  near  Grezzana, 
is  a  good  and  unaltered  specimen  of 
w\  old  Italian  mansion,  and  contains 
fi'escoes  by  Paolo  Veronese. 

In  the  yicinity  of  Marzana  are  Ro- 
man remains,  an  aqueduct,  and  other 
buildings. 

Val  Foiicella  and  Val  Pantena  are 
<^lled  with  villas,  the  summer  resi- 
dences of  the  rich  Yeronese.  The 
'.vines  of  the  Val  Policella  liave  a 
I)cal  celebrity.  The  chief  place  in 
it  is  the  large  village  of  8.  Pietro  in 
Cariano. 

In  a  deep  ravine,  near  the  head  of 
tlie  Yal  Pantena,  is  the  Ponte  della 
Veja,  a  natural  arch,  beneath  which 
I  ishes  a  cascade.  The  span  of  the  arch 
is  about  150  ft. :  you  can  walk  along 
t:ie  summit,  of  which  the  breadth 
varies  from  10  to  15  ft.  Beyond  is  the 
village  of  Sanf  Anna^  a  secluded  spot. 


An  excursion  to  the  Monte  Bolca^ 
which,  going  and  returning,  wiU  be 
about  40  m.,  also  includes  many  objects 
of  varied  interest. 

Soavey  the  town  nearest  the  Yicenza 
I'cad,  is  a  good  specimen  of  Scaligerian 
fcrtification  :  the  surrounding  walls 
and  gates,  as  well  as  the  castle,  are 
ir.ore  than  usually  perfect. 

Diverging  by  the  by-road  which 
branches  off  on  the  1.  at  the  St. 
Bonifacio  Rlwy.  Stat,  to  Monteforte, 
following  the  Alpone  torrent  4  m. 
farther,  you  approach  the  valley  of 
lionca.  The  rocks  of  the  Val  Cunellay 
which  opens  into  that  of  the  Alpone, 
\re  composed  almost  wholly  of  beds  of 
shells,  whilst  the  neighbourhood  pos- 
.*.^sse8  some  very  remarkable  basaltic 
fx)nnations.  Retuming  to  the  Alpone, 
a; id  following  it  upwards  to  S.  Gio- 
vjnni  Ilarione,  from  which  a  road,  still 
following  the  torrent,  leads  to  Bolca, 
j  assing  the  Monte  del  Diavolo,  a 
IV. ass  of  basaltic  columns :  here  the 
y.i  liars  are  mostly  inclined  at  a  con- 
K- ierable   angle ;    others   are    curved, 


and  others  broken  off,  so  as  to  form 
an  horizontal  pavement.  Continuing 
onwards,  at  Vestena  Nova  the  basaltic 
prisms  are  veiy  lofty  and  erect.  In 
one  part  they  form  a  cliff  nearly  50 
ft.  in  height,  down  which  the  torrent 
Alpone  pours  a  beautiful  cascade.  The 
basaltic  columns  are  called  the  Stan- 
ghelliniy  a  name  similar  in  its  etymo- 
logy to  the  Hebrides  Staffa^  for  Stanga 
means  a  pole  or  staff. 

About  3  m.  further  is  the  Monte 
Bolca^  called  La  Purga,  the  largest 
and  most  singular  deposit  of  fossil 
fishes  yet  discovered.  The  mountain, 
which  is  of  a  conical  form,  is  partly 
formed  of  basalt.  The  impressions  of 
the  fish  are  foimd  in  the  schistose 
strata,  which  gives  out,  when  broken,  a 
bituminous  smell.  A  lignite  of  inferior 
quality  is  found  here  in  the  same  ter- 
tiary marine  strata  under  the  basalt. 

With  respect  to  the  fossil  fishes,  it 
must  be  observed  that  the  same  in- 
genuity which  supplies  the  antiquary 
with  Othos,  equally  insures  to  the 
geologist  the  rarest  and  most  extra- 
ordinary specimens;  that  is  to  say, 
they  are  imitated  in  such  a  manner  as 
to  deceive  any  ordinary  eye  j  they  ai^ 
cleverly  manufactured  out  of  the  dis- 
jointed fragments  of  several  different 
species.  Good  specimens  may  be 
bought  of  the  custode  of  the  Amphi- 
theatre at  Yerona;  but  they  are  not 
cheap :  and  the  high  price  is  explained 
by  telling  you,  which  is  tolerably  cor- 
rect, that  it  is  a  rare  occurrence, 
amidst  tlie  numberless  fragments  im- 
bedded in  the  schistus,  to  find  anything 
approaching  to  an  entire  individual. 

The  province  of  Yerona  abounds  in 
objects  of  8;reat  singularity  and  interest. 
Amongst  the  works  of  art  the  ancient 
feudal  castles  are  remarkable.  Of  those 
which  are  of  the  era  of  the  Scaligers, 
and  more  or  less  in  the  style  of  the 
Castle  of  Yerona,  seme  are  noticed  in 
the  different  rov  fc33 ;  but  there  are 
many  more  in  parts  of  the  country 
out  of  the  beaten  track  of  travellers. 


Vjsnetian  Prov.      Houte  30. —  Verona  to  Mantua, 


313 


ROUTE  30. 

VEBONA  TO  MANTUA,  BY  VILLAPBANCA. 
— BAIL. 


KIL. 

KIL 

Doeaobnono    .    .10 

Boyerbella 

.    .  29 

Vlllafranca    .    .  17 

Mantua.    .    . 

,     .  36 

Mozzecane     .    .  22 

36  kil.=22  Eng.  m. 

3  trains  daily,  at  6*30  A.M. ;  lO'lO, 
and  3  P.M.,  in  1^  hr. 

The  country  on  the  rt.  of  the  road  is 
celebrated  as  the  scene  of  some  of  the 
most  bloody  actions  between  the  Pied- 
montese  and  Austrians  in  1848.  It 
passes  near  to  Santa  Lucia  and  Somma 
Campagna,  from  which  Charles  Albert 
blockaded  Radetsky  in  Verona,  to  Cus- 
tozza,  where,  after  a  most  sanguinary 
and  protracted  contest,  the  Fiedmontese 
were  worsted  on  the  25th  of  July,  and 
obliged  to  recross  the  Mincio ;  and  by 
Villafiranca,  the  head-quarters  of  the 
King  of  Sardinia  during  a  part  of  his 
inyasion  of  the  country  around  Verona 
in  1848. 

10  kil.  Dossohuono,  Stat.,  near  a 
straggling  village  on  right. 

7  kil.  Vlllafranca,  Stat. 

At  Villafiranca  is  a  fine  castellated 
structure.  It  was  founded  in  1199  by 
the  Veronese ;  but  the  present  building 
is  of  the  14th  century.  Villafranca  has 
acquired  a  celebrity  in  the  diplomatic 
history  of  Europe  as  the  site  of  the 
negotiations  between  the  Emperors  of 
France  and  Austria,  which  ended  in  the 
conclusion  of  the  convention  which  put 
an  end  to  the  last  war  on  the  11th  July, 
1859.  [From  here  a  cross-road  of  5  m. 
leads  to  Valeggio  and  BorghettOy  on  the 
Mincio.  Overlooking  Borghetto,  and 
on  the  opposite  side  (east)  of  the  river, 
is  the  Scaligerian  Castle  of  Valeggio, 
with  a  very  lofty  dongeon.  VaUeggio 
and  Borghetto  constitute  an  important 
military  position,  as  affording  an  easy 
passage  of  the  Mincio.  Here  the 
French  crossed  in  August,  1796,  after 
the  battle  of  CastigHone;  the  Fied- 
montese in  1848 — the  Austrians  o^ 
both  occasions  retreating  to  Verona; 


and  again  the  French  in  pursuit 
of  the  Austrians,  after  their  defeat  at 
Solferino  on  the  24th  June,  1859.  Va- 
leggio, a  village  of  2000  Inhabitants, 
in  the  midst  of  a  rich  silk  district, 
is  on  the  edge  of  the  great  plain  of 
Mantua.  But  the  most  remarkable 
feature  of  the  place  is  the  fortified 
bridge  or  causeway  between  it  and 
Borghetto,  built  in  1393  by  Gian' 
Gtileazzo  Visconti,  who  has  in  this 
fabric  exhibited  his  favourite  pas- 
sion for  architectural  magnificence. 
His  engineers  availed  themselves  of  a 
Roman  substructure,  upon  which  they 
erected  this  raised  causeway  or  viaduct, 
at  each  end  of  which  was  a  lofty  gate 
tower,  and  in  the  centre  the  bridge 
over  the  Mincio  ;  the  latter  has  long 
been  broken  down.  The  length  of  the 
causeway  is  602  yards,  battlemented 
on  either  side  like  the  bridge  at  Verona, 
and  defended  by  lofty  turrets.  It 
cost  108,182  golden  zecchins  of 
Venice.] 

5  kil.  Mozzecane^  Stat.  The  coun- 
try about,  and  hence  to  Mantua, 
consists  chiefly  of  irrigated  meadow- 
land. 

7  kil.  JRoverhella,  Stat.  The  town,  a 
large  wealthy  place,  is  at  some  distance 
on  the  right  of  the  stat. :  here  they 
show  the  house  in  which  Napoleon 
lodged  in  1796,  during  the  military 
operations  between  the  Adige  and  the 
Mincio,  and  the  siege  of  Mantua. 

7  kil.  Mantua,  Stat. 

Mantua  :  ItaUan,  Mantova. — (Inns: 
L'Aquila  d'Oro,  fair.  La  Fenice, 
united  to  la  Croce  Verde ;  charges  high, 
and  attendance  complained  of  (1862). 
Both  are  in  the  Contrada  della  Croce 
Verde. 

The  railroad  stat.  is  2  m.  from  the 
town,  but  omnibuses  start  to  meet  each 
train  to  and  from  the  difierent  hotels ; 
faxe  i  a  lira. 

Diligences. — ^In  consequence  of  the 
interruption  of  friendly  relations  be- 
tween tne  Government  of  Austria  and 
the  annexed  states  of  N.  Italy,  the 
communiQations  have  been  in  great 
measure  suspended  by  public  convey- 


^   I 


Boute  30, — Mantua. 


Venetian  Prov.      Boute  30. — Mantua — The  Gomagas, 


315 


ances,  the  only  being  to  Parma  every 
morning  in  8  hrs.,  by  way  of  Casal- 
maggiore,  and  to  Beggio  in  6. 

Moretti  Foggia,  a  chemist,  keeps 
Bnglish  medicines. 

Mantua  is  surrounded  by  lakes  and 
marshes,  adding  at  once  to  the  strength 
of  this  ancient  city  and  to  its  insalu- 
brity. The  latter,  however,  has  some- 
what diminished,  the  marshes  hav- 
ing been  partially  drained.  This  was 
effected  by  the  French.  The  three  por- 
tions of  the  lake  are  called  the  Logo  di 
MezzOy  Lago  Inferiore^  and  Lago  Su- 
jperiore,  formed  by  the  swelling  out 
of  the  Mincio,  and  maintained  by 
artificial  dams  and  embankments; 
they  are  crossed  by  six  bridges,  or 
chaussees. 

Mantua  stands  on  the  "smooth- 
sliding  Mincius." 

'*  Propter  aquam,  tardi»  ingens  ubi  flexibas 

exrat 
Mincius,  et  tenera  prsetexit  arundine  ripas." 

In  fact,  the  city  is  situated  on  two 
lands,  between  which  the  river  flows, 
and  from  its  situation  amid  the  flat 
and  sedgy  banks  of  the  Mincio  its 
climate  is  anything  but  healthy :  inter- 
mittent and  low  fevers  are  frequent 
in  the  autumn,  and  it  has  no  claims 
to  natural  beauty;  but  it  contains 
many  fine  buildings,  and  remains  of 
works  of  art,  called  into  existence  by 
its  former  sovereigns. 

The  Q-onzagas,  first  Lords,  or  Cap- 
tains, in  1328 ;  next  Marquises,  or 
Margraves,  in  1433;  and  lastly,  cre- 
ated by  Charles  V.  Dukes  of  Mantua, 
in  1530,  were  men  of  great  talent, 
and  possessed  extraordinary  munifi- 
cence ana  energy;  and  in  the  16th 
centy.  "  Mantova  la  Gloriosa"  was 
one  of  the  most  rich  and  gay  of  the 
courts  and  cities  of  Italy.  The  Gon- 
zagas,  but  more  especially  Q-iovanni 
Fwincesco  II.  (from  1484  to  1519),  and 
Federico  II.  (1514-1540),  who  first 
obtained  the  ducal  dignity,  were  mag- 
nificent patrons  and  promoters  of  the 
arts  and  of  literature.  Their  successors 
continued  to  govern  with  much  wis- 
dom ;  and  Mantua  became  one  of  the 


most  opulent  and  flourishing  cities  of 
Lombardy,  when  the  death  of  Vin- 
cenzio  II.  (1627)  was  followed  by  every 
kind  of  calamity.  It  seemed  thence- 
forward  as  if  the  house  had  become 
fated.  Francesco  lY .  having  died  with- 
out male  issue  after  a  reign  of  ten 
months,  the  duchy  devolved  upon  Car- 
dinal Ferdinando,  his  brother.  It  was 
more  than  doubtful  whether  he  had 
any  right  to  the  duchy,  for  Mantua 
had  not  been  declared  a  male  fief; 
and  it  was  considered  that  Maria,  his 
niece,  was  the  lawful  heir.  Ferdinand, 
having  by  papal  Hcence  resigned  his 
cardinal's  hat,  married  twice.  By  his 
first  and  secret  marriage  with  Camilla 
Reticina  he  had  one  son;  but  Ferdi- 
nand procured  the  marriage  to  be  dis- 
solved; Jacintho  Gonzaga  was  declared 
illegitimate,  and  his  father  married 
Catherine  of  Medicis  ;  but  he  had  no 
children  by  her ;  and,  on  his  death  in 
1627,  the  duchy  was  claimed  by  the 
branch  of  the  Q-onzagas  settled  in 
France,  then  represented  by  Charles 
Duke  of  Nevers.  The  right  was  con- 
tested; and  the  Emperor  Ferdinand 
II.  claiming  to  dispose  of  the  duchy 
of  Mantua  as  an  imperial  fief,  the 
country  was  invaded  by  Altringer, 
Colalto,  and  Gallas,  names  written  in 
blood  in  the  history  of  the  thirty 
years'  war.  Duke  Charles,  was  ne- 
glected, and  almost  betrayed,  by  the 
Venetians,  and  feebly  supported  by  the 
French.  On  the  8th  April,  1630,  the 
imperialists  laid  siege  to  the  town: 
famine  and  pestilence  raged  within ; 
but  the  duke  defended  himself  bravely  j 
and  the  inhabitants,  knowing  what 
would  be  their  fate,  aided  with  the  ut- 
most valour  and  desperation.  On  the 
18th  July,  when  the  garrison  was  re- 
duced to  1000  fighting  men,  the  city 
was  taken  by  storm,  and  during  three 
^ays  was  given  up  to  plunder.  The 
Gl-ermans  on  this  occasion  executed 
their  work  of  devastation  with  great 
system  and  regularity ;  they  got  exceed- 
ingly drunk ;  they  neither  Killed  a  man, 
nor  insulted  a  woman,  nor  burnt  a 
house:  but  they  stripped  the  town  of 
everything  which  it  contained.     The 


316 


Route  30. — Manilla — Siege, 


Sect.  IV. 


]-)lunder  was  valued  at  8,000,000  ducats. 
Previous  to  the  siege  the  duke  had  sold 
large  portions  of  the  Gonzaga  collec- 
tions. The  plunder  of  the  city  dis- 
]'>ersed  the  remainder,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  such  of  the  marhles  as  remain 
in  the  museum.  The  best  portions 
were  taken  to  Prague.  They  were 
afterwards  purchased  by  Christina 
Queen  of  Sweden,  who  carried  them  to 
Home,  where  they  remained  until  they 
were  obtained  by  the  Regent  Duke  of 
Orleans,  and  became  the  foundation  of 
the  Orleans  gallery. 

Carlo  G^onzaga  I.  regained  his  duchy 
by  submission  to  the  emperor  j  but 
Mantua  never  recovered  from  the 
blow.  Population  has  increased  of 
late  years  ;  there  are  now  about  35,000 
Inhab.,  upwards  of  3000  of  whom  are 
Jews,  by  whom  a  great  proportion  of 
the  trade  is  carried  on. 

The  G^onzagas  were  in  the  last 
century  deprived  of  their  possessions 
by  the  jurisprudence  of  the  feudal  ages. 
Carlo  rV.  having  unfortunately  joined 
the  French  in  the  war  of  the  succes- 
sion, the  Emperor  Joseph  I.  placed  him 
imder  the  ban  of  the  empire,  and  seized 
his  dominions.  The  duke  fled,  and 
died  at  Padua  in  1707,  not  without 
suspicion  of  poison;  and  Joseph,  de- 
claring the  fief  to  be  forfeited,  united 
it  to  his  own  dominions.  The  last  of 
the  G^onzagas,  still  a  resident  here,  is 
now  a  pensioner  of  the  Austrian  govern- 
ment. The  Austrians  added  to  the 
fortifications,  and  Mantua  became,  what 
it  is  now,  one  of  the  strongest  fortresses 
in  Italy. 

Hence,  in  1796,  after  the  fall  of 
]\Iilan,  Napoleon  immediately  endea- 
voured to  make  himself  master  of 
Mantua,  as  the  bulwark  of  the  Aus- 
t  rian  dominions,  and  without  the  pos- 
session of  which  the  conquest  of  Lom- 
bardy  never  could  be  secure.  The 
ciege  was  begun  14th  June,  1796,  by 
a  blockade ;  but  the  forces  of  Serrurier 
vrere  only  sufficient  to  keep  the  gar- 
rison in  check,  and  the  French  could 
not  prevent  the  occupation  of  the  city 
by  Wurmser,  after  his  defeat  at  Bassano. 
About  September  the  Austrians  were 


shut  within  their  walls.  Wurmser  then 
killed  all  his  horses,  and  salted  their 
carcases.      Four  unavailing  attempts 
were  made  by  the  Austrians  to  relieve 
the  garrison.    AAer  the  failure  of  the 
last,  Mantua  could  no  longer  hold  out. 
One   half   of  its    numerous  garrison 
was  in  the  hospital:   they  had  con- 
sumed aU  their  horses,  and  the  troops, 
placed  for  months  on  half-rations,  had 
nearly  exhausted  all  their  provisions. 
In  this  extremity  Wurmser  proposed 
to  Serrurier  to  capitulate :  the  IVench 
commander  stated  that  he  could  give 
no  definite  answer  till  the  arrival  of 
the  general-in- chief.     Napoleon,  in  con- 
sequence, hastened  to  Roverbella,  where 
he  found  Klenau,  the  Austrian  aide-de- 
camp,  expatiating  with   Serrurier  on 
the  powerful  means  of  resistance  which 
Wurmser  enjoyed,  and  the  great  stores  . 
of  provisions  which  stiU  remained  in 
the  magazines.     Wrapped  in  his  cloak 
near  the  fire,  he  overheard  the  conver- 
sation without  taking  any  part  in  it, 
or  making  himself  known.     When  it 
was  concluded,  he  approached  the  table, 
took  up  the  pen,  and  wrote  on   the 
margin  his   answer  to  all  the  propo- 
sitions of  Wurmser  j  and  when  it  was 
finished,  said  to  Klenau,  "  If  Wurmser 
had  only  provisions  for  fifteen  days, 
and  spoke  of  surrendering,  he  would 
not  have  merited  an  honourable  capi- 
tulation ;  but  as  he  has  sent  you,  he 
must  be  reduced  to  extremities  ;  but  I 
respect  his  age,  his  valour,   and  his 
misfortunes.     Here  are  the  conditions 
which  I  offer  him  if  he  surrender  to- 
morrow :  should  he  delay  a  fortnight, 
a  month,  or  two  months,  he  shall  have 
the  same  conditions  :  he  mi^  wait  till- 
he  feels  he  can  do  so  with  honour  to 
himself.     I  am  now  about  to  cross  the 
Po  to  march  upon  Rome :  return,  and 
communicate  my  intentions   to  your 
general."     The  aide-de-camp,  who  now 
perceived  that  he  was  in  the  presence 
of    Napoleon,     finding    that    it    was 
useless  longer  to  dissemble,  confessed 
that  they  had  only  provisions  left  for 
three  days.     The  terms  of  capitulation 
were  immediately  agreed  onj   Napo- 
leon set  out  himself  to  Florence,  to 


Ven.  Pkov.     R.  30. — Mantua — Castelh  di  Corte — Palace, 


317 


conduct  the  expedition  against  Rome ; 
and  Serrurier  had  the  honour  of  seeing 
the  marshal,  with  all  his  staff,  defile 
before  him.  On  taking  the  city,  the 
French  committed  many  excesses.  It 
was  retaken  after  a  bombardment  of 
four  days  by  the  Austrians  in  1799. 

In  the  centre  of  the  city  there  is 
much  appearance  of  commercial  ac- 
tivity ;  but  the  grass  grows  in  the  out- 
skirts, and  the  marks  of  ruin,  too  visible 
upon  many  of  the  buildings,  attest  the 
misfortunes  which  Mantua  has  sus- 
tained. Yet  many  interesting  memo- 
rials remain,  to  remind  us  of  its  ancient 
splendour.  There  are  no  large  squares, 
but  great  masses  of  buildings,  huge 
piles  casting  deep  shadows,  feudal 
towers  crowned  with  their  forked  bat- 
tlements, castles  and  Lombard  arches, 
form  a  scene  of  peculiar  and  novel 
character. 

The  assemblage  of  buildings  which, 
beginning  at  the  Porta  di  San  CfioT' 
giOf  extends  from  the  Piazza  di  S. 
Pietro  to  the  Lago  Inferior e^  is  remark- 
able. The  first  object  is  the  ancient 
CastelU)  di  Corte^  the  palace  and  fortress 
of  the  Q-onzagas,  built  by  Francesco 
Gk)nzaga  IV.,  Capitano  of  Mantua,  be- 
tween the  years  1393  and  1406,  the 
architect  being  BertoUno  Novara.  It 
is  flanked  by  deeply  machicolated  and 
noble  towers,  but  battered  and  decayed. 
It  was  used  by  the  Austrians  partly  as 
a  prison,  chiefly  for  poKtical  offenders, 
and  partly  as  pubUc  offices.  The 
archives  contain  documents  reaching  as 
far  back  as  the  early  part  of  the  lltb 
oenty.,  and  aU  those  relative  to  the 
Gonzagas  ^e  deposited  here.  The  in- 
terior was  nchly  decorated  with  fres- 
coes, which  were  perfect  till  the  con- 
quest of  Lombardy  by  the  French ; 
now  only  a  few  vestiges  can  be  traced 
in  some  of  the  rooms,  occupied  by  the 
public  offices.  Of  these  the  most  inte- 
resting are  in  one  of  the  rooms  now 
used  as  a  council-room,  1,  on  the  waU 
on  1.  of  the  entrance  a  man  and  boy 
holding  a  horse  and  dogs;  2,  the 
fijie  picture  of  Ludovico  Gl-onzaga,  and 
nw  wife  Barbara  and  three  children ; 


3,  over  the  door  a  beautiful  group 
of  3  Angels  holding  an  inscription : 
all  these  frescoes  are  by  Andrea  Man- 
tegna.  In  the  coves  of  the  ceiling  are 
heads  in  chiar'-oscuro  of  the  Csesars, 
also  by  H^antegna,  Another  smaller 
room  has  a  border  representing,  in 
small  but  animated  groups,  chaces  of 
wild  am'mals  and  of  fabulous  creatures ; 
and  in  the  rest  of  the  neglected  cham- 
bers similar  traces  may  be  seen  of  past 
grandeur. 

Adjoining  the  CasteUo  di  Corte  is  tlie 
immense  edifice  begun  in  1302,  by  G-uido 
Buonacolsi,  sumamed  Boticella,  third 
sovereign  lord  of  Mantiia,  now  compris- 
ing the  so-called  Palazzo  Imperiale,  Pa- 
lazzo Vecehio,  and  Corte  Imperiale,  and 
containing,  it  is  said,  500  rooms.  Of  the 
older  building,  however,  Uttle  besides 
the  front,  with  its  G-othic  arches  and 
windows  surmounted  bv  machicolated 
battlements,  and  the  arms  of  the  Buo- 
nacolsi in  the  capitals  of  some  columiir , 
is  now  in  existence.  Several  artists 
had  employed  their  talents  upon  it 
before  Oiulio  Romano  was  called  upon 
to  transform  it  entirely,  »nd  exhibit 
new  proofs  of  the  inexhaustible  powers 
of  his  genius.  Since  his  time  many 
other  artists  have  contributed  in  vari- 
ous ways  to  its  embellishment.  In 
fact,  for  the  grandeur  of  its  masses,  for 
propriety,  invention,  and  decorations 
of  every  kind,  for  the  solution  of  the 
most  perplexing  problems  in  architec- 
tural and  pictorial  arrangement,  for 
the  skilful  adaptation  of  designs  to  the 
most  uninviting  and  embarrassing 
spaces,  we  know  no  edifice  of  this  kind 
either  in  or  out  of  Italy  which  aj)- 
proaches  this  imperial  residence,  or 
wliich  displays  such  varied  resources  to 
the  student  of  decorative  art.  This 
Palace  was  the  favourite  residence  of 
the  later  members  of  the  ducal  house. 
The  Emperor  Joseph  bestowed  much 
care  upon  it,  several  of  the  rooms  were 
furnished  anew  during  the  French 
occupation  and  by  the  Austrians  to 
receive  the  Emperor  Francis;  many 
retain  much  of  their  former  splendour, 
but  a  great  proportion  have  been  con- 
verted into  storehouses  and  barracks. 


Itoule  30. — JWairfuo — Ducat  Palace,  Sect.  IV. 


,AS  OF  THK  BUILDINGS  OF  THE  DOCAL  PALACE  IN  MANTUA, 


HcftTHiMJ  (0  t\i  AparlmenU. 

a  Scatchnlii.  e  8b.Ib  de'  Muml.  «  Gallery. 

b  Camera  devil  Aruzl.  A  Sole  and  Apparlamerxto  dl  o  Apparumento  StlvnU. 

c  Camera  del  ZodUu).'  Trqjs.  Ii  ApparUmeMo  FaradJEO. 

d  Galleria  degll  Specchl.  (  Corte  VeccWi.  I  Fpssage  leading  lo  the  Co- 

e  Glardtpo  penrile.  J:  (  Caatello.  now  Archives.  ihedral. 

/  CaiTidor  leMUng  lo  the  m  fial&  with  p.>i-lraita  oTlbe  r  Houie  at  B.  Caellglione. 

The  genius  of  Giulio  Romano,  iThether  i  loggie,  ate  especially  deBerving  of  ot- 
as  a  punter  or  an  architect,  iB  nowhere  i  tention. 

displayed  to  greater  adyantnge.  Tlie  The  order  in  which  the  state  apart- 
front  of  the  CaTallerizza,  and  the  ments  ore  shown  is  neHrlj  ae  follows : — . 
Giardino  pensile,  on  a  terrace,  so  aa !      The  Camera  del  Zodiaco,  frora  the 

'"~"'~~'^"" " —  ■--■-•-■--    .■  .1     "■   — ■■  "le  Zodiac  bj' 

ongst  which 


Venetian  Prov.    Route  30. — Mantua— Ducal  Palace, 


319 


Orion  is  introduced :  the  two  children 
representing  the  twin  offspring  of 
Orion  and  the  Moon  in  the  centre 
are  very  beautiful. 

Camere  degV  Arazzi,  4i  in  number : 
on  the  walls  are  extended  a  set  of  ta- 
pestries from  the  Cartoons  of  Baphael 
at  Hampton  Court,  and  the  Conversion 
of  St.  Paul,  and  the  Martyrdom  of  St. 
Peter ;  both  fine,  but  not  equal  to  that 
of  St.  Paul  preaching  at  Athens.  "  The 
tapestries  are  surrounded  by  painted 
borders  of  allegorical  imagery,  and  there 
is  a  painted  ceUiog :  all  have  the  finest 
effect."— i.  G. 

The  stucco  ornaments  of  the  doors 
and  wood  carvings  are  from  designs  by 
Primaticcio. 

On  the  opposite"  side  of  the  court- 
yard to  the  Camere  degF  Arazzi  is  the 
Qalleria  degU  Specchi,  or  ball-room, 
with  some  fine  Yenetian  glass  painted 
by  GKulio  Bomano's  pupils.  The  great 
audience-chamber,  whose  ceiling  is  up- 
borne by  magnificent  consoles,  is  in- 
teresting ;  and  still  more  so  is  another, 
the  Galleria  de  Quadri,  containing  the 
long  series  of  Cc^itaniy  Marquises, 
Di:£es,  Princes,  and  Princesses  of  the 
G-onzaga  family,  and  some  very  indif- 
ferent paintings,  one  attributed  to I/uini. 
A  suite  of  rooms  is  kept  well  furnished, 
but  the 'greater  part  are  empty  and 
desolate ;  and  in  the  back  part  of 
the  building,  deserted  cortUes,  and 
blocked-up  windows,  and  springing 
vegetation,  are  sad  and  dreary  memo- 
rials of  Mantua's  decay. 

In  the  interior,  the  chamber  called 
the  "  Appartamento  di  Troja**  is  prin- 
cipally painted  by  Oiulio  Momano,  per- 
haps partly  .by  Mantegna.  The  works 
were  begun  in  1524,  by  Federigo  Gk>n- 
zaga,  the  first  Duke  of  Mantua,  and 
he  employed  Baldassare  Castiglione  to 
make  the  needful  arrangements  with 
the  artists.  It  leads  to  the  Sala  di 
Troja,  which  is  painted  entirely  by 
Oiulio  Momano.  These  chambers,  as 
the  name  imports,  contain  passages 
from  the  history  of  the  Trojan  war, 
and  are  in  tolerable  preservation.  "  In 
tliis  room,  painted  by  Gfiulio  Momano, 
in  fresco,  his  characteristic  invention  is 


powerfully  conveyed.  Ajax,  transfixed 
with  a  fiery  arrow  by  Minerva,  is 
strongly  and  vividly  expressed.  Mi- 
nerva retiring  looks  back  with  scorn 
upon  the  impotent  rival  of  her  fa- 
vourite Ulysses.  When  Paris  con- 
ducts Helen  to  the  ship,  the  natural 
feeling  of  the  characters  is  admirably 
portrayed.  The  lover  is  manly,  and 
is  earnestly  persuading  his  fair  heroine 
to  embark :  she,  though  not  imwilling, 
yet  looks  back  to  her  attendants  who 
bear  her  attire,  with  true  female  feeling, 
to  see  if  her  adomings  are  in  security : 
all  is  bustle  and  activity.  The  frescoes 
of  Laocoon  and  his  sons,  and  of  the 
completion  of  the  Trojan  Horse,  are 
weak,  and  yet  again,  in  that  of  Achilles 
dragging  Hector  at  the  back  of  his 
chariot,  the  very  spirit  of  vengeance 
seems  to  inspire  him.  In  colour  and 
effect  it  is  as  bad  as  it  can  be,  and  this 
work  is  by  no  means  so  finished  as 
his  labours  in  the  Palazzo  del  Te." — 
jPhillips,  R.A, 

Adjoining  these  chambers  is  the 
Sala  de'  Marmi  (so  called  from  a  num- 
ber of  masterpieces  of  the  Grecian 
chisel  which  once  adorned  it),  very 
richly  decorated.  It  is  of  the  time  of 
G-iuho  Romano.  This  is  connected  by 
a  gallery,  running  along  one  side  of  the 
Cavallerizza,  with  the  Appartamento 
StivaH,  painted  by  Oiulio  Romano  and 
Primaticcio,  Near  this  last  is  the  apart- 
ment called  "  II  Paradiso,"  containing 
some  curious  ancient  cabinets,  yet  re- 
taining the  initials  of  Isabella  d^JSste, 
wife  of  Francis  III.  Marquis  of  Man- 
tua, equally  celebrated  for  her  beauty 
and  her  intrepidity.  The  ceilings  of 
most  of  the  apartments  are  of  wood, 
richly  ornamented  vrith  carvings  and 
stucco-work,  by  Primaticcio,  They 
are  very  curiously  varied :  in  one  room 
the  ceiling  represents  a  labyrinth,  with 
the  inscription  ^^forse  chs  si,  forse  che 
no"  repeated  in  each  meander.  The 
Sala  de*  Mori  is  the  richest ;  it  is  blue 
and  gold.  The  Scalcheria,  or  room  of 
the  seneschals,  contains  an  exquisite 
specimen  of  a  richly  decorated  ceiling, 
said  to  be  one  of  the  first  paintings 
which    Griulio    Romano    executed    in 


320 


RotUe  30. — Maiitaa — Churches. 


Sect.  IV. 


Mantua.  The  conception  is  beautiful, 
and  the  execution  most  careful.  The 
figure  of  a  female,  with  a  genius,  in  the 
centre,  looking  oyer  a  balustrade,  is 
painted  in  oil,  and  attributed  to  Man- 
tegna.  The  pleasures  of  the  chace,  or 
sports  of  Diana,  in  the  lunettes,  are 
amongst  the  most  elegant  inyentions 
of  Giulio  Eomano. 

Opposite  to  the  palace  with  its 
Gothic  windows,  stands  the  palace  of 
B.  Castighone,  the  author  of  the  Corie- 
ffianoi  it  has  a  fine  gateway  with  sculp- 
tured arabesques ;  on  one  side  of  which 
is  the  bishop's  palace,  and  on  the  other 
that  of  the  Guerrieri  family.  Close  to 
the  latter  is  an  ancient  tower  annexed 
to  the  palace  which  formerly  belonged 
to  the  Buonacolsis ;  it  was  built  in  1302 
by  Boticella.  About  half-way  up  pro- 
jects an  iron  cage,  from  whence  this 
building  derives  its  name  of  Torre 
delta  Oabbia.  According  to  the  tra- 
ditions of  the  city,  when  any  criminal 
deserved  to  be  put  to  shame,  he  was 
exposed  in  this  cage  for  three  succes- 
sive days,  and  for  three  hours  each  day. 
The  caging  of  criminals  was  very  com- 
mon in  Italy  (see  Pia<;enza,  p.  432). 
On  the  captm*e  of  the  city  by  the 
French,  the  cage  was  taken  down,  but 
replaced  afterwards  by  the  direction  of 
Napoleon ;  the  tower  itself  commands  a 
fine  prospect  over  the  town  and  the  lake. 

The  Torre  dello  Zuccaro,  hard  by,  is 
also  fine  of  its  kind,  and  interesting  as 
a  memorial  of  the  ancient  factions  by 
whom  the  city  was  nded  and  divided. 

The  Palazzo  delta  Ragione  was 
begun  in  1198,  in  the  age  of  Mantuan 
independence,  and  completed  about 
1250.  It  is  a  fine  specimen  of  the 
civil  architecture  of  the  time.  A  large 
archway  of  brick  and .  stone  forms  a 
prominent  feature  in  this  building. 
Inserted  in  the  wall  is  a  G^othic  throne 
and  canopy  in  terracotta  supported  by 
twisted  and  facetted  columns.  Beneath 
this  canopy  is  a  mutilated  sitting  statue 
of  yirgU,  a  crowned  figure  holding  an 
open  book  upon  his  knees ;  the  inscrip- 
tion below  is  of  the  12th  or  13th  cen- 
tury. From  this  building  rises  a  lofty 
campanile  with  a  curious  astronomical 


clock  upon  the  Dondi  plan  (see  Padua), 
but  of  rather  later  date,  having  been 
put  up  in  1478.  It  has  a  great  num- 
ber of  complicated  movements,  now 
out  of  order. 

It  is  in  the  neighbourhood  of  this 
Palazzo  that  the  city  is  most  un- 
changed. In  the  neighbouring  Piazza 
SErba  may  be  seen,  No.  2388,  a  small 
but  beautifully  decorated  house-front 
in  terracotta  resting  on  a  portico 
supported  by  Oorintluan  columns. 

The  DuOMO,  dedicated  to  St.  Peter, 
has  been  much  altered.  One  side-wall, 
exhibiting  a  series  of  Gothic  gables, 
separated  by  pinnacles  of  moulded 
brick  and  all  richly  ornamented,  shows 
the  original  style.  The  fine  Lombard 
campanile  is  also  standing.  The  in- 
terior was  rebuilt  by  CHulio  Romano. 
The  arches  of  the  aisles  rest  upon  Corin- 
thian pUlars :  the  roof  of  the  nave  is  flat, 
with  riclily  ornamented  compartments. 
Except  a  fresco  by  Mantegna,  now  co- 
vered with  glass  (and  that  partly  co- 
vered by  another  picture),  there  are  no 
paintings  of  any  peculiar  merit  in  tliis 
building.  The  Chapel  della  Madonna 
Incoronata^  by  Alberti,  is  fine.  The 
Chapel  of  the  V  irgin  is  richly  decorated. 
In  the  Ist  chapel  on  1.  is  an  early  Chris- 
tian sarcopha^s,  with  figures  of  the 
12  Apostles. 

The  Basilica  di  Sanf  Andrea  is 
among  the  finest  existing  specimens  of 
an  interior  in  the  Italian  or  revived 
B.oman  style.  It  was  designed  by 
Leon  Batlista  Alberti.  The  cupola 
was  by  Juvara;  it  was  begun  in 
1732,  but  not  completed  till  1781. 
The  church  is  about  310  ft.  in  length. 
It  contains  many  good  frescoes  by  the 
scholars  of  Hantegna.  In  a  crypt  be- 
neath the  high  altar  is  a  shrine  where 
are  preserved  the  blood  of  our  Lord  col- 
lected by  the  Centurion  Longinus,  and 
the  remains  of  the  latter.  The  vault- 
ings of  the  aisles  of  this  church  are  very 
bold  and  skilful.  Mawtegna  is  buried 
in  the  first  chapel  on  the  1.  His  bust 
in  bronze  by  Sperandio,  erected  in 
1516,  ten  years  after  Mantegna's  death, 
is    an   excellent    piece    of   workman- 


Venetiai^  Prov.       Route  30. — Mantua — Churches — Palaces.      '  321 


ship.  The  eyes  are  said  to  have  been 
formed  of  diamonds  or  rubies.  In 
the  chapel  of  the  Yirgin  is  a  Holy 
Pamily,  with  St.  EUzabeth,  by  Man- 
iegna.  The  other  good  paintings  are— 
X.  Costa,  a  Holy  Family ; — Ghiisowi,  a 
Crucifixion,  in  3rd  chapel  on  1.  Several 
of  the  monuments  are  worthy  of 
notice,  cither  for  their  beauty,  or  on 
account  of  the  persons  to  whose 
memory  they  are  raised.  JProspero 
Clementi  of  Reggio,  a  pupil  of  Michael 
Angelo,  sculptured  the  tomb  of  Giorgio 
Andreassi. — ^The  Ca/ntehni  monument, 
in  rt.  transept,  of  curious  architec- 
tural construction  ;  the  memorial  of 
Pietro  Pomponazzo,  who  enjoys  an 
unfortunate  celebrity—  his  renowned 
work  on  the  Immortality  of  the  Soul, 
published  at  Venice  in  1516,  having 
laid  him  under  the  imputation  of 
atheism,  a  charge  not  diminished  by 
his  having  had  Cardinal  Bembo  as  a 
defender.  The  great  portal  or  entrance 
of  the  church  is  deeply  recessed.  It 
has  also  the  remains  of  a  fresco  by 
Mantegna.  In  the  chapel  of  the  Holy 
Sacrament,  in  the  1.  transept,  is  the 
fine  monument  of  Pietro  Strozzi  by 
Giulio  Romano.  In  the  1st  chapel  on 
1.  is  an  early  Christian  sarcophagus, 
with  figures  of  the  12  Apostles.  The 
fine  brick  Gothic  campanile  belonged  to 
the  original  basilica. 

The  Ch.  of  Sta.  Bcirbara,  within  the 
Ducal  Palace,  was  built  by  Bertani,  a 
scholar  of  Giuho  Bomano.  Over  the 
high  altar  is  the  Martyrdom  of  the  pa- 
tron saint,  by  Brusasorzi.  This  is  a 
coUegiate  ch.,  exempted  from  the  juris- 
diction of  the  bishop,  but  immediately 
under  the  papal  see;  and  the  Uturgy 
has  some  pectdiarities  of  its  own.  The 
archives  are  extensive  and  curious.  The 
once  rich  sacristy  still  contains  a  few 
objects  of  value  ;  the  most  remarkable 
is  a  golden  vase,  delicately  chased, 
attributed  to  Benvenuto  Cellini. 

Sant*  JEgidio,  a  small  ch.  near  the 
Darsena,  contains  the  sepulchral  slab 
of  Bernardo  Tasso. 

San  Mamizio,  formerly  S.  Napo- 
leone.  Here  is  the  Martyrdom  of  St. 
Margaret,  by  Ludomco  Caracdx  the 

iV;  ttaig-^imo. 


figure  of  the  Saint  is  beautiful.  Near 
this  is  the  ch.  of  San  Francesco,  a  fine 
building  of  the  14th  or  15th  centy.,  but 
now  desecrated,  and  converted  with  its 
convent  into  artillery  stores  and  bar- 
racks. 

San  SehasUano,  now  closed,  erected 
by  I/.  B.  Alherti  in  1460 ;  a  specimen 
of  the  revived  Boman  style  :  it  ofiers 
some  good  but  dilapidated  frescoes  by 
Mantegna.  Opposite  stands  the  house 
of  Mantegna,  presented  to  him  by  the 
generous  Q-onzagas  with  an  honorary 
inscription ;  by  the  side  of  which  is 
the  Porta  Pusterla  leading  to  the 
Palazzo  del  T. 

A  curious  specimen  of  ancient  engi- 
neering is  the  Argine  del  Mulino,  the 
bridge,  or  rather  dam,  constructed  in 
1188  by  Alberto  Pitentino.  It  stands 
between  two  of  the  pieces  of  water  which 
surround  Mantua,  one  of  which,  being  of 
a  higher  level  than  the  other,  serves  as 
a  great  milldam,  and  turns  the  wheels 
of  the  twelve  mills  which  flank  the 
bridge  and  are  severally  dedicated  to 
the  twelve  Apostles.  Each  mill  has  the 
statue  of  its  apostle.  The  bridge  itself 
is  covered,  and  is  entered  by  a  fortified 
tower  or  gateway,  in  which  is  a  beau- 
tiful pointed  window,  divided  by  a 
central  mulhon.  Near  the  Porta  Mu- 
lino  is  a  saw-mill,  which  is,  perhaps,  the 
earliest  example  of  such  machinery.  It 
was  built  by  Qirolamo  Arcari  in  1400, 
and  it  is  still  in  active  operation. 

The  Beccheria  and  the  Pescheria, 
the  shambles  and  the  fish-market, 
stand  upon  the  Mincio,  so  that  they 
are  always  clean.  They  were  built 
by  QiuUo  Romano  i  and,  whilst  the 
plan  is  exceedingly  simple,  he  has 
given  them,  and  more  especially  the 
Beccheria,  no  inconsiderable  degree  of 
architectural  beauty. 

The  Palazzo  Colloredo  in  the  Via 
Larga,  the  widest  thoroughfare  in 
Mantua,  was  built  by  Bertani  from  the 
designs  of  GKulio  Romano.  The  front 
is  supported  by  enormous  caryatides  of 
bold  sculpture.  Within  is  a  profusion 
of  frescoes  by  the  scholars  of  Oiulio 
Bomano.  Amongst  them  are  introduced 
many  curious  portraits   of  sovereigns 


322 


BoiUe  30. — Mantua — PvMic  Bmldings, 


Sect.  IV. 


and  princes:  Francis  I.,  Charles  YIII., 
and  other  French  kings ;  Giovanni  de' 
Medici  j  Nicolo  III.  Marquis  of  Ferrara ; 
and  Francesco  IV.  Marquis  of  Mantua. 

In  the  same  street,  and  nearly  oppo- 
site to  the  Palazzo  Oolloredo,  is  CHulio 
Romano' &  house ;  the  front  is  of  an 
elegant  and  chaste  design.  Over 
the  door  is  a  statue  of  Mercury,  or 
rather  a  fragment  restored  by  Oiulio 
Momano  and  Primaticcio.  The  attri- 
butes of  the  heathen  gods  are  intro- 
duced in  various  parts  of  the  building. 
Giulio  Bomano  was  buried  in  the 
neighbouring  ch.  of  S.  Bamaba,  in 
which  there  are  2  good  paintings  by 
Lor.  Costa  and  Maganza,  but  the  place 
of  liis  grave  is  unknown. 

The  Palazzo  del  Diavolo,  now  having 
a  dreary,  deserted,  and  haunted  look,  is 
said  to  have  been  built  by  the  fiend 
in  the  course  of  one  night,  he  having 
been  constrained  thereto  by  the  di- 
vining rod  of  hazel,  which  in  Germany 
used  to  be  employed  for  the  discovery 
of  treasures.  The  exterior  was  painted 
by  Pordenone,  but  it  is  now  cut  up 
into  shops  and  dwellings,  and  has  httle 
remarkable  except  its  name.  Near  the 
Palazzo  del  Diavolo  is  theTeatro  Sociale, 
built  by  Oanonica,  a  handsome  modem 
construction,  in  the  Corso  di  Porta  Pra- 
della,  a  fine  wide  street  leading  to  the 
gate  of  that  name,  and  through  which 
the  road  to  Cremona  passes. 

The  Accademia  delle  Sells  Arti, 
founded  in  1775,  is  now  merely  a  draw- 
ing-school. It  contains  some  pictures 
from  suppressed  churches  and  convents. 
There  is  a  good  copy  of  the  "  Notte  " 
by  Correggio  /  but  the  gallery  does  not 
pretend  to  great  names.  Our  Lord 
bearing  his  cross,  by  Francesco  Mon- 
signorcy  is  amongst  the  best  in  it. 

The  Scuole  Pubbliche  were  formed 
out  of  the  Jesuits'  College.  The 
library  contains  about  52,000  printed 
books,  and  a  few  curious  MSS.  : 
some  beautiful  missals,  and  one  with 
pen-and-ink  drawings  by  Andrea  Man- 
tegna.  Here  is  a  very  fine  Rubens, 
formerly  in  the  church,  representing 
four  members  of  the  Gonzaga  family 
in  the  act  of  prayer. 


The  Museo  AwtiquaHo  is  a  long  and 
narrow  gallery,  filled  with  Bomaa  and 
some  few  Ghreek  statues  and  fragments, 
of  which  the  greater  portion,  it  is  said, 
were  part  of  the  plimder  collected  by 
Lodovico  Gonzaga  at  the  sack  of  Rome. 
It  used  to  be  considered  the  first  col- 
lection in  Italy,  a  rank  it  can  no  longer 
maintain  ;  though  it  certainly  contains 
some  good  specimens. — Tlu*eefine  bassi- 
rilievi,  representing  the  submission  of  a 
province,  a  sacrifice,  and  the  marriage  of 
an  emperor,  supposed  to  be  Lucius  Ve- 
rus.     Several  Imperial  busts,  amongst 
them  a  fine  Caligula.  The  Battles  of  the 
Amazons ;  Death  of  Penthesilea.     The 
Sun  (not  Apollo)  surrounded  by  other  di- 
vinities. Euripides.  Thales.  TheDescent 
of  Orpheus.   Medea.  A  Cupid  Sleeping, 
attributed  to  Michael  Angelo,  and  also 
said,  like  some  other  of  his  productions, 
to  have  been  passed  off  by  him  for 
an  antique^    Virgil's  Chair,  that  is  to 
say,  a  very  ancient  bishop's  throne  of 
marble.    The  bust  of  Virgil,  a  cahn, 
beautiful  coimtenance  vrith  long  flow- 
ing hair.     There  was,  anciently,  in  the 
market-place  of  Mantua,  a  statue  said 
to  be  Virgil,  and  representing  him  sit- 
ting on  a  throne,  holding  his  works  in 
one  hand,  and  raising  the  other,  as  in 
the  act  of  declaiming.     This  statue  be- 
came the  object  of  a  species  of  worship; 
and  when   Carlo  Malatesta,  in  13 w, 
occupied     Mantua,     a     conscientious 
scruple  induced  him  to  break  the  idol 
in  pieces  and  cast  its  fragments  into 
the  lake,  the  head  only  being  saved. 
It  is  evident,  whatever  may  be  thought 
of  the  storv,  that  this  head  never  could 
have  belonged  to  a  statue,  inasmuch  as 
it  is  part  of  a  Term,  and,  in  the  next 
place,  it  is  equally  evident  that  it  is  not 
Virgil,  but  a  young  Bacchus,  or  some 
similar  mythological  personage. 

The  Ponte  di  San  Gfiorgio  crosses 
the  entire  lake,  and  is  upwards  of  2500 
ft.  in  length.  It  was  built  in  1401, 
and  was  anciently  covered  like  a  Swiss 
bridge.  The  view  of  Mantua  from 
hence,  towers  and  cupolas,  and  the  great 
mass  of  the  castle,  is  peculiar. 

The  Piazza  Virgiliana  was  formed 
out  of  a  swamp,  drained  and  planted  by 


Venetian  Prov.     Route  30. — Mantua — Palazzo  del  Te. 


323 


the  French ;  it  is  yet  dark  and  rather 
dreary.  At  one  end  is  the  Anfiteatro  Fir- 
giliano^  built  1820,  for  shows  and  games. 
Outside  the  walls  and  a  few  hun- 
dred   yards    beyond  the  Porta   Pus- 
terla  is  the  Palazzo  del  Te.     Permis- 
sion  to   see  it  must  be  procured   at 
the    Pal,   Ducale.     Various    accounts 
have  been  given  of  the  origin  of  the 
name  of  this  palace,  but  the  only  one 
which  seems  to  deserve  credit  is  that 
of  GabrieU  Bertolazzo  (the  author  of  a 
description  of  Mantua,  the  2nd  edition 
of    which    appeared    in    1628),    who 
ascribes  it  to  the  form  of  the  roads 
and    avenues  by   which    it   was    ap- 
proached, which  were  so  arranged  as 
to  produce  the  capital  letter  T.     AU 
the  old  authors,  beginning  with  Yasari, 
write  it  del  T,  and  not,  as  in  modem 
times,  del  Tfe ;    which  affords  a  con- 
firmation of  this  view.    The  Palazzo 
consisted  originally  of  stables,  and  the 
Marquis  Federigo  Gonzaga  intended  to 
make  this  building  an  unpretending 
country-house,  with   one  single  large 
room  besides  the  necessary  accommo- 
dation;    but    GiuHo,    in     acquitting 
himself   of  his    commission,    showed 
so    much  taste,  that  the  Marquis  de- 
cided u^on  transforming  and  extend- 
ing the  new  house  into    a    splendid 
palace,  and  thus  gave  the  artist   an 
opportunity  of  applying,  in  harmonious 
combination,  his  powers  as  architect, 
pamter,  and  sculptor.    Giuho  executed 
this  great   work,   with  the  assistance 
of    his    pupils     Primaticcio,     G-.    B. 
Pagni,  and  Binaldo  Montovano,  in  the 
short  space  of  five  years.     The  prin- 
cipal building,  with  the  large  court 
in  the  centre,  forms  a   square,  each 
front  being  about  180  ft.  outside,  and 
about  120  ft.  in  the  court.     The  order 
of  architecture  is  throughout    Doric, 
tastefully  exhibiting  all  the  variety  of 
which  this  style  is  susceptible.     The 
hall  opposite  the    principal  entrance 
leads  over  a  bridge  into  an  extensive 
parterre,  which  ends  with  a  semicir- 
cular wall,  portioned  out  into  15  niches, 
probably    for    statues.    At    each    ex- 
tremity of  this  wall  was  an  exquisite 
apartment  of  small  dimensions,  com- 
posed of  a  grotto  and  »  log$ia^  with 


which  a  small  flower-garden  was  con- 
nected. Of  these  the  one  on  the  1.  is 
stUl  in  a  tolerable  state  of  preservation : 
the  other  was  destroyed  more  than  a 
century  ago,  by  being  used  as  a  guard- 
house. 

The  principal  rooms  of  the  palace 
are  the  following,  in  the  order  which 
the  visitor  is  shown  over  them  : — 

Small  apartment  on  rt.  of  entrance, 
with  plaster  reHefs  by  Primaticcio  and 
his  scholars. 

Camera  dei  Cavalli.  —  Pictures  of 
G-onzaga's  horses.  This  is  the  oldest 
part  of  the  building,  and  that  which 
gave  such  delight  to  Qc.  Komano*s  pa- 
tron. The  ceiUng,  which  is  of  wood, 
is  finely  carved  in  compartments.  "  I 
was  struck  with  the  great  truth  shown 
in  the  imitation  of  the  horses,  six  in 
number,  of  the  natural  size,  painted  in 
this  room.  The  two  bays  are  nearly 
as  perfect  in  preservation  as  could  be 
desired,  while  the  three  white,  and 
remaining  one,  an  iron  grey,  have  suf- 
fered much.  These  are  said  to  have 
been  also  painted  by  the  pupils  of 
Giuho  Romano,  B.  Pagni  and  Rinaldo 
Montovano,  from  the  designs  of  their 
master." — S.  A.  Hart,  R.A. 

CaiTisra  di  JPaiche. — Kich  in  frescoes, 
oil-paintings,  and  stuccoes,  illustrating 
the  story  of  Psyche  from  Apuleius. 
"  Subjects  of  deep  pathos,  of  sub- 
Ume  allegory,  are  here  treated  with 
the  hand  of  a  master,  in  all  that 
relates  to  poetic  imagination  and  in- 
vention in  design.  The  pictorial  is 
wanting  to  render  them  agreeable, 
though  it  is  in  this  room  that  Giulio 
Romano  has  evidently  put  forth  his 
strength  in  force  and  depth  of  coloiu*s, 
and  in  effects  of  light  and  shade,  par- 
ticularly in  Psyche  offering  her  fruits 
and  flowers  to  Venus,  in  her  receiving 
the  grapes,  in  the  discovery  of  Cupid 
by  Psyche,  and  in  some  of  the  beauti- 
fully composed  figures  of  the  lunettes. 
These  pictures  are  in  oil,  and  therefore 
he  could  work  on  them  to  effect  more 
fully  than  in  fresco,  and  they  are  so 
treated,  but  are  far  too  black.  The 
large  pictures  below  are  in  fresco,  and 
are  rich  indeed  in  the  important  qua- 
lities of  imagery,  invention,  and  desigu. 


324 


Boute  30. — Mantua — Palazzo  del  Te, 


Sect.  IV- 


but  woefully  wanting  in  colour,  effect, 
and  harmony." — Prof.  Phillips^  Ji.A, 
"  0-.  Romano's  pupils,  Benedetto,  Pagni, 
and  Binaldo  MontoTano,  are  said  to 
have  painted  the  ceiling  in  oil  &om  the 
designs  of  their  master.  These  paint- 
ings are  turned  black  and  heavy,  espe- 
cially in  the  shadows ;  a  remark  which 
cannot  with  equal  truth  be  applied  to 
the  subjects  in  the  room  beneath  in 
fresco,  in  which  not  more  than  a  cer- 
tain depth  is  indulged  in,  calculated  to 
give  space  and  light  to  the  apartment. 
The  ceiling,  on  the  contrary,  looks 
low."— 5^.  A.  Sort,  E,A. 

Camera  dei  Cesari  contains  2  frescoes 
in  the  lunettes,  by  Qiulio  Romano  : 
Alexander  discovering  the  writings  of 
Homer,  and  restoring  the  wife  of  Mar- 
donius. 

Camera  di  Faetonte. — So  called  from 
the  oil-painting  of  the  fall  of  Phaeton, 
on  the  vault.  The  distribution  of  this 
small  room  is  as  tasteful  as  its  execution 
is  exquisite. 

Camera  del  Zodiaco,  o  delV  Astro- 
nomia. — On  the  ceihng,  in  stucco,  are 
the  ^inds  and  the  12  signs  of  the  zo- 
diac: the  occupations  of  the  seasons 
are  painted  in  16  medallions. 

The  Atrio,  or  Loggia  forming  the 
principal  entrance. — Passages  from  the 
life  of  David,  executed  by  Giulio's 
scholars.  The  medallions  in  black 
stucco  by  Primaticcio,  A  cannon-ball 
fell  through  the  vaulting  during  the 
siege  of  1796,  injuring  the  frescoes  of 
the  fall  of  Phaeton. 

Sala  de^  StuccMy  in  which  there  is  a 
double  frieze  executed  by  PrimaficciOj 
from  designs  of  Qiulio  Romano,  repre- 
senting the  triumphal  entrance  into 
Mantua  of  the  Emperor  Sigismund  in 
1433,  who  the  year  before  had  created 
G-ian  Francesco  Gonzaga  Marquis  of 
Mantua.  The  arched  ceiling  is  equally 
rich  in  stuccoes. 

Sala  dei  &iganti. — The  most  cele- 
brated of  the  series  :  it  was  chiefly  exe- 
cuted by  Minaldo  MofUovano  ;  a  small 
portion  only  was  the  work  of  Qiulio 
Romano,  who  famished  the  designs. 
Jupiter,  amidst  the  heathen  gods,  hurls 
^  is  thunders  upon  the  Titans,  who,  in 

'^vtent  actiotig,  terror,  danger,    and 


impending  death,  cover  the  four  walls, 
down  to   the  very  floor.    The  giants 
in  the  foreground  are  represented  12  or 
14  ft.  high.     Most  contradictory  judg- 
ments have  been  passed  on  these  paint- 
ings.   Ya^ari,  Borghini,  and   all    the 
earlier  writers'^ upon  art,  praise  them 
exceedingly ;  and  Lauzi  considers  him 
as  rivaUmg  Michael  Angelo.     Others 
have  thought  that  they  havebeen  praised 
far  beyond  their  deserts,     '^(jolossal 
figures  in  a  small  room,  even  where 
the  idea  of  a  supernatural  size  is  in- 
tended to  be  conveyed,  are  unsatis- 
factory, as  the  spectator  is  quite  near 
enough  to  perceive  details,  and  finds 
none,   except  those  belonging  to  the 
execution  of  the  work,   which   ought 
not  to  be  visible.      This  unpleasant 
eifect  is  produced  in  the  '  Sala  de'  Gi- 
ganti,'  by  GiuHo  Bomano,  at  Mantua." 
— JSastlake. 

"  The  hall  of  the  Giants  would  oc- 
cupy a  month  to  understand,  or  convey 
thoroughly  the  quantity  of  matter,  of 
feeling,  of  allegory,  and  poetry  which 

it  contains Tlie  taste  of  the 

work  is  displeasing,  and  unfit  for  the 
adornment  of  a  palace :  but  the  power 
of  imagination  exhibited  in  it  is  of  the 
most  extraordinary  kind.  Most  of 
the  figures  are  of  superior  order  in 
action  and  in  form,  though  some  are 
coarse  and  oflensive.  The  grouping  is 
often  exceedingly  beautiAd,  particu- 
larly so  in  that  of  Cybele,  Ceres,  Her- 
cules, Mercury,  &c.,  but  the  only  head 
that  has  any  pretension  to  beauty  is 
that  of  Juno.  The  Hours  staying  the 
progress  of  the  horses  of  Apollo  are  per- 
haps in  the  most  perfect  style  of  paint- 
ing, as  to  colours  and  effect,  of  the 
whole."— Pro/:  Phillips,  R,A, 

For  routes  from  Mantua  to  Parma, 
see  Rte.  42 ;  to  Ferrara  and  Bologna, 
Etc.  56 ;  to  Cremona,  Bte.  25. 


Plan  for  visiting  in  one  day,  and  in 
topographical  order,  the  Sights  at 
Mantua. 

Piazza  delle  Erbe ;  Pal.  della  Kagione  j 
Ch.  of  S.  Aif dbea  j  Piazia  di  S.  Pietroj 
DtrOMoj  Ch,  of  Santa  Barbara j  Cas* 


Venetian  Pkov.        Route  SI, —  Verona  to  Ventoe. 


326. 


^TELLO  Di  CoBTE ;  ArcMvio;  Accademia 
delle  Belle  Arti;  Piazza  Virgilianaj  re- 
turning by  Oorso  di  Porta  Pradella  to 
Theatre  j  Pal.  del  Diavolo  ;  PaL  Col- 
loredo;  Chs.  of  S.  Maurizio  and  S, 
Bamciba;  Houses  of  Giulio  Romano 
and  Mantegna ;  Ch.  of  S.  Sebastiano ; 
Palazzo  del  1%, 


KOUTE  31. 

YEBONA  TO  VENICE,  BY  CALDIEEO, 
VICENZA,  AND  PADrA.— BAII.. 


KIL. 


KIL. 


Son  Martino  . 

.     a 

Pqjana       ...    63 

Caldlero    .    . 

.    12 

Padua.    ...    78 

flambooifado 

.    21 

PuQte  di  Brenta     84 

Lonlgo      .    . 

.    26 

Dolo      ....    94 

Montebello    . 

.    32 

Marano     ...    98 

Tavemelle     . 

.    41 

Mestre ....  107 

ViCEXZA   .     . 

.     48 

Vekice      .    .    .115 

n5  =  71iEng.  m. 

Trains  leave  Verona  3  times  a  day, 
employing  about  IJ  hr.  to  Vicenza, 
2|  to  Padua,  and  3'50  to  Venice.  There 
are  two  stations,  but  the  most  con- 
venient for  persons  going  towards 
Vicenza  will  be  that  outside  the  Porta 
VescovOj  near  the  cemetery,  on  the  1. 
bank  of  the  Adige. 

The  railroad,  on  leaving  Verona,  and 
in  nearly  its  whole  extent  to  Vicenza, 
runs  parallel  and  near  to  the  old  post- 
road.  It  skirts  the  last  spurs  of  the  Alps. 
These  hills  are  extremely  picturesque, 
from  the  many  villages  which  are  situ- 
ated upon  them,  with  their  Scaligerian 
castles.  Looking  back  on  the  cify,  the 
view  of  Verona,  with  its  medieeval 
walls,  and  its  heights  crowned  by  the 
modem  fortifications,  is  beautiful.  At 
a  distance  of  3  miles  we  pass  the 
village  of  San  Michele.     Here  was  a 


very  ancient  monastery,  which  after- 
wards became  a  convent  of  Benedictine 
nuns.  It  has  some  interest  as  being  the 
place  where  the  3  granddaughters  of 
Dante,  the  children  of  his  son  Pietro, 
namely,  Aligheria,  G-emma,  and  Lucia, 
took  the  veil,  the  last  having  been 
abbess  in  1402.  The  family  of  Dante 
became  extinct  in  the  male  line  in 
1558,  the  last  descendant  who  bore  the 
name  then  holding  a  municipal  office 
in  Verona.  In  the  church,  which  is 
modem,  are  some  good  second-rate 
pictures  by  Lo  SpadarinOf  JBellotti, 
and  H  Gobhino. 

Immediately  beyond  S.  Michele,  on 
the  1.  of  the  rly.,  is  the  church  of 
the  Madonna  di  Campagna^  also  from 
the  designs  of  Sanmicheli;  a  circular 
building  with  a  Tuscan  colonnade,  and 
crowned  by  a  cupola  of  great  beauty  and 
originality.  The  contrivances  of  the 
vaulting,  the  winding  staircase,  and 
other  portions  of  the  fabric,  show  also 
great  ingenuity.  Within  are  some  good 
paintings  by  Brusasorzi  and  Farinati^ 
the  latter  a  Nativity.  Before  the  altar 
Davila  the  historian  is  interred :  he  was 
assassinated  close  to  the  church. 

At  a  short  distance  from  the  road, 
but  on  the  other  side  of  the  Adige,  is 
the  Lazaretto,  built  in  1591,  and  for 
which  Sanmicheli  gave  the  designs. 
It  is  said  that  they  were  not  strictly 
followed,  but  altered  for  the  sake  of 
economy ;  yet  the  building,  as  it  now 
stands,  cost  80,000  zecchms.  It  is  a 
noble  cloister  j  a  parallelogram  of  about 
700  ft.  by  300,  containing  150  cells. 
In  the  centre  is  a  venr  graceful  circular 
chapel  of  marble.  The  building  is  now 
used  as  a  powder-magazine. 

About  3  m.  from  San  Michele,  on 
the  1.,  is  the  village  of  MontoriOy  re- 
markable for  its  well-preserved  Scali- 
gerian defences. 

6  kil.  San  Martino^  Stat.,  soon  after 
leaving  which  the  wide  valley  of  Dasl 
opens  on  the  1. 

6i  m.  Caldiero{Stat)i2ixici&ai\j  called 
Calidarium,  from  its  now  neglected 
thermal  springs.  An  inscription  found 
here  shows  that  the  baths  were  built 
or    repaired    by    Petronius    Probus, 


326 


Eoute  31. — Battle  of  Arcote, 


Sect.  IV* 


A.  u.  c.  753,  or  the  first  year  of 
tbe  Christian  era,  and  dedicated  to 
Juno.  The  buildings  stood  and  con- 
tinued in  use  until  1240,  when  they  were 
destroyed  by  Eccelino.  The  waters 
retained,  however,  so  much  reputa- 
tion that  the  Venetian  repubUc,  more 
than  two  centiuies  afterwards  (1483- 
1500),  directed  the  building  of  a 
bath-house,  and  made  regulations  for 
preventing  the  waste  or  destruction  of 
the  salutary  streams;  but  at  present 
they  are  little  visited.  The  principal 
spring  is  surrounded  by  a  circular  en- 
closure. Like  all  in  this  district,  the 
water  is  strongly  sulphureous.  At 
Caldiero,  and  on  the  heights  of  Colog- 
nola  near  it,  the  Austrian  s  took  up  a 
position,  towards  the  beginning  of  No- 
vember, 1796,  where,  on  the  11th  of 
the  month,  they  were  assailed  by 
Napoleon,  whom  after  an  obstinate 
struggle  they  defeated.  Napoleon 
then  retreated  to  Verona,  which  he 
quitted  suddenly  two  days  afterwards 
with  all  his  disposable  forces ;  and  by 
a  rapid  march  along  the  right  bank  of 
the  Adige,  crossed  that  river  at  Ronco, 
a  movement  which  was  followed  by 
the  briUiant  victory  of  Arcole. 

After  leaving  Caldiero,  the  pictu- 
resque town  of  Soave,  on  the  declivity 
of  a  hill,  is  passed  on  the  left.  The 
modem  town  is  in  the  plain,  but  the 
mediseval  walls,  which  are  well  pre- 
served, with  their  square  towers,  are 
seen  converging  to  the  summit  of  the 
eminence,  terminated  by  the  ancient 
castle — the  general  disposition  of  all 
the  fortresses  in  the  hilly  region  of  this 
part  of  Italy. 

Villanuova  is  now  passed.  This 
hamlet  possesses  a  church  which  is 
rather  remarkable.  The  campanile  is 
formed  out  of  an  ancient  feudal  tower, 
formerly  part  of  the  castle  of  the  noble 
family  of  San  Bonifacio,  by  whom  the 
place  was  founded.  The  altar  has  a 
good  bas-rehef  in  the  style  of  the  13th 
century,  and  the  capitsJs  of  several  of 
the  colimins  seem  to  have  belonged  to 
some  early  Christian  structure.  The 
village  at  the  foot  of  the  hills  on  the  1. 
is  Monforte, 


9  kil.  SctmbonifaeiOi  Stat  A  road 
leads  firom  here  on  the  L  to  Monte  Bolca. 
The  group  of  Vicentine  hills,  or  Monti 
Berici,  now  come  into  view.  Samboni- 
facio  is  on  the  1.  bank  of  the  Alpone, 
3  m.  to  the  S.  of  which  is  Arcole.  It 
was  near  this  poiat  that  Napoleon,  aft;er 
his  check  at  Caldiero,  determined  to 
assail  the  Austrians  in  flank;  and 
he  therefore  stationed  his  army  in  the 
low  grounds  which  extend  from  this 
village  to  the  Adige.  He  thought,  with 
reason,  that,  on  the  narrow  causeways 
which  traversed  these  marshes,  the 
superiority  of  numbers  on  the  part  of 
the  enemy  would  be  unavailing,  and 
everything  would  depend  on  the  reso- 
lution of  the  heads  of  columns.  The 
position  which  he  had  chosen  was  sin- 
gularly well  adapted  for  the  purpose  he 
had  in  view.  Three  chauss6es  branch  off 
from  Bonco ;  one,  following  the  1.  bank 
of  the  Adige,  ascends  that  river  to 
Verona ;  one  in  the  centre  leads 
straight  to  Arcole,  by  a  stone  bridge 
over  the  little  stream  of  the  Alpone ; 
the  third,  on  the  rt.,  follows  the  de- 
scending course  of  the  Adige  to  Alba- 
redo.  Three  columns  were  moved  for- 
ward on  these  chaussees :  that  on  the 
1.  was  destined  to  approach  Verona; 
that  in  the  centre  to  attack  the  flank  of 
the  Austrian  position  by  the  village  of 
Arcole ;  that  on  the  rt.  to  cut  off  their 
retreat.  At  daybreak  on  the  15th  Mas- 
sena  advanced  on  the  flrst  chaussee  as 
far  as  a  small  eminence,  which  brought 
him  in  sight  of  the  steeples  of  Verona, 
and  removed  all  anxiety  in  that  quarter. 
Augereau,  with  the  division  in  the 
centre,  pushed,  without  being  per- 
ceived, as  far  as  the  bridge  of  Arcole ; 
but  his  advanced  guard  was  there  met 
by  three  battalions  of  Croats,  by  whom 
the  French  were  driven  back.  The 
Austrians  despatched  by  Alvinzi  passed 
tlirough  Arcole,  crossed  the  bridge,  and 
attacked  the  corps  of  Augereau;  but 
they  also  were  repulsed  and  followed 
to  the  bridge  by  the  victorious  French. 
There  commenced  a  desperate  struggle ; 
the  republican  column  advuioed  with 
the  utmost  intrepidity,  but  they  were 
received  with  so  tremendous  a  fire  that 


Venetian  Prov. 


Boitte  31. —  Vkenza, 


327 


they  staggered  and  fell  back.  Napo- 
leon, deeming  the  possession  of  Arcole 
indispensable,  not  only  to  his  future 
operations,  but  to  the  safety  of  his  own 
army,  put  himself  with  his  generals 
at  the  head  of  the  column,  seized  a 
standard,  advanced  without  shrinking 
through  a  tempest  of  shot,  and  planted 
it  on  the  middle  of  the  bridge ;  but 
the  fire  there  bec-ame  so  violent  that 
his  grenadiers  hesitated,  and,  seizing 
the  general  in  their  arms,  bore  him 
back  amidst  a  cloud  of  smoke,  the 
dead  and  the  dying.  The  Austrians 
instantly  rushed  over  the  bridge,  and 
pushed  the  crowd  of  fugitives  into  the 
marsh,  where  Napoleon  lay  up  to  the 
middle  in  water,  while  the  enemy's 
soldiers  for  a  minute  surroiuided  him 
on  all  sides.  The  French  grenadiers 
soon  perceived  that  their  commander 
was  left  behind ;  the  cry  ran  through 
their  ranks,  "Forward  to  save  the 
general !"  and,  returning  to  the  charge, 
they  drove  back  the  Austrians,  and 
extricated  Napoleon  from  his  perilous 
situation.  During  this  terrible  strife 
Lannes  received  three  wounds.  His 
aide-de-camp,  Mem^n,  was  killed  by 
his  side  when  covering  his  general  with 
his  body,  and  almost  all  his  personal 
staff  were  badly  wounded. 

The  battle  continued  with  various 
fluctuations  through  the  16th  and  17th, 
when  both  parties  advanced,  with 
diminished  numbers  but  undecaying 
fiiry.  They  met  in  the  middle  of  the 
dikes,  and  fought  with  the  utmost 
animosity.  Towards  noon,  however, 
Napoleon,  perceiving  that  the  enemy 
were  exhausted  by  fatigue,  while  his 
own  soldiers  were  comparatively  fresh, 
deemed  the  moment  for  decisive  suc- 
cess arrived,  and,  ordering  a  general 
charge  of  all  his  forces,  cleared  them 
of  the  enemy,  and  formed  his  troops 
in  order  of  battle  at  their  extremitv, 
having  the  rt.  towards  Legnago.  By 
the  orders  of  Napoleon  tlie  garrison  of 
Legnago  issued  forth  with  four  pieces 
of  cannon,  so  as  to  take  the  enemy  in 
rear  j  while  a  body  of  trumpeters  was 
sent,  under  cover  of  the  willows,  to 
their  extreme  1.  flank,  with  orders  to 


sound  a  charge  as  soon  as  the  action 
was  fully  engaged  along  the  whole  line. 
These  measures  were  completely  suc- 
cessful. The  Austrian  commander, 
while  bravely  resisting  in  front,  hear- 
ing a  cannonade  in  his  rear,  and  the 
trumpets  of  a  whole  division  of  cavalry 
in  his  flank,  ordered  a  retreat,  and,  after 
a  desperate  struggle  of  three  days*  du- 
ration, yielded  the  victory  to  his  ene- 
mies. 

An  obeUsk  was  erected  near  the 
bridge  of  Arcole  in  commemoration  of 
the  victory,  and  is  yet  standing,  but  it 
has  been  mutilated  and  disfigured. 

5  kil.  Lonigo  Stat.,  2  m.  from  the 
town  of  the  same  name  on  rt. 

6  kil.  Montebello,  Stat.  The  vil- 
lage, on  the  1.,  a  good-sized  one,  is  at 
the  base  of  the  hill,  on  the  summit  of 
which  are  ruins  of  a  mediseval  strong- 
hold ;  on  the  rt.  are  the  Monti  Berici. 
This  MontebeUo  must  not  be  con- 
founded with  that  near  Casteggio  (Rte. 
7),  the  scene  of  the  two  great  battles 
in  1800  and  1859.  There  are  several 
handsome  villas  herC.  On  quitting  this 
station  the  two  fine  castles  oiMontecchio 
now  come  into  view  ;  and  on  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  valley  which  leads  to- 
wards Vicenza,  the  castle  of  Brendolay 
on  one  of  the  slopes  of  the  Monti  Berici. 
The  castles  of  Montecchio  were  strong- 
holds of  the  family  of  that  name,  ren- 
dered so  celebrated  by  Shakspeare  as 
the  rivals  of  the  Capulets. 

8  kil.  Tavernelle,  Stat,  in  a  rich 
plain  between  the  hills  of  Montecchio 
and  the  Monti  Berici. 

7  kil.  Vicenza,  Stat.  The  station  is 
outside  the  Verona  gate,  close  to  the 
shady  promenade  of  the  Campo  Mar- 
zio. 

Vicenza.  {Inns  :  the  H6tel  de  la 
Ville,  kept  by  Torresani ;  a  large  and 
fairly  comfortable  hotel  just  inside  the 
Verona  gate,  and  the  nearest  to  the  rly. 
station ;  le  Due  Buote,  and  the  Stella 
d'Oro,  very  fair,  principally  resorted  to 
by  the  gentry  of  the  country  around. 
There  is  a  cafe  at  the  railway  sta- 
tion which  wiU  serve  all  the  purposes 
of  the  traveller  who  may  wish  to  spend 


Eoute  31. —  Vicema. 


Vene  ri A  N  Piio V.         Boute  3 1 . —  Vicenza — Palaces. 


329 


only  a  few  hours  or  the  interval  be- 
tween two  trains  at  Vicenza.) 

The  situation  of  this  city,  which, 
including  the  adjoining  villages,  con- 
tains upwards  of  33,300  Inhab.,  is 
beautiful,  particularly  on  the  side  of 
the  Monti  Berici,  The  rapid  Bac- 
chifflione,  which  runs  through  it,  and 
wMch  is  joined  within  its  walls  by 
the  BetroTiey  though  smaU,  sometimes 
does  much  mischief.  Eight  bridges 
cross  these  rivers,  one  of  which,  that 
of  San  MicheUy  a  bold  single  arch,  is 
attributed  to  JPalladio.  Yicenza  is  of 
great  antiquity :  of  Roman  remains, 
portions  of  a  theatre  have  been  recently 
discovered.  There  are  not  many  struc- 
tures of  the  middle  ages  :  tliis  is  much 
owing  to  the  influence  of  Palladio  (bom 
1518,  died  1580)  in  this  his  native  town, 
and  of  those  architects  who  more  or 
less  foUowed  his  school. 

"  Pdlladicl's  buildings  'are  in  general 
very  beautiful  \  but  most  of  them  are 
at  present  in  a  very  forlorn  condition. 
The  fronts  and  even  the  columns  are 
of  brick,  the  entablatures  of  wood,  and 
the  stucco,  with  which  both  have  been 
covered,  is  peeUng  off.  I  am  aware 
that  this  statement  of  their  materials 
may  lessen  your  respect  for  the  palaces 
which  make  so  fine  a  display  on  paper ; 
but  the  circumstance  does  not  diminish 
the  merit  of  the  architect,  though  it 
does  the  magnificence  of  the  city.  Pal- 
ladio's  columns  are  mostly  mere  orna- 
ments ;  but  in  contemplating  his  build- 
ings it  is  impossible  to  feel  tliis  to  be  a 
fault.  The  sculpture  which  loads  the 
pediments  of  the  vnndows  is  certainly 
ill  placed  ;  and  still  worse  is  the  Uttle 

Sanel  of  bas-relief  so  frequently  intro- 
uced  over  the  lower  windows ;  dividing 
what  ought  to  be  one  soHd  mass  into 
two  miserably  weak  arches.  What  is 
it  then  that  pleases  so  much  and  so 
universally  in  the  works  of  this  artist? 
It  seems  to  me  to  consist  entirely  in  a 
certain  justness  of  proportion  with 
which  he  has  distributed  all  the  parts 
of  his  iarchitecture ;  the  basement  being 
neither  too  high  nor  too  low  for  the 
order  above  it;  the  windows  of  the 
right  size,  and  well  spaced  j  and  all  the 


parts  and  proportions  suited  to  one 
another.  The  same  excellence  is  found 
in  his  orders,  and  the  relation  of  the 
columns,  capitals,  entablatures,  &c. 
He  has  not  adopted  the  theoretical 
rules  of  another,  but  has  drawn 
them  all  from  what  he  felt  to  be 
pleasing  to  himself,  and  suited  to 
his  own  style  of  art ;  but  they  are  not 
good  when  united  to  a  more  soUd  and 
less  ornamental  manner." — Woods. 

Palladio  was  succeeded  by  Sca- 
mozzi,  also  a  Vicentine  (bom  1552, 
died  1616).  He  was  in  a  manner 
formed  by  the  example  of  Palladio. 
This  will  be  seen  fully  at  Venice,  where 
Scamozzi  was  principally  employed, 
though  some  fine  specimens  of  his 
talents  are  to  be  found  in  this  his 
native  city. 

The  Piazza  dei  Signori  is  remarkably 
fine.  At  one  end  of  it  are  the  two  co- 
lumns the  Venetians  used  to  erect  in  all 
the  cities  of  their  dominion,  in  imitation 
of  those  in  the  Piazza  di  San  Marco. 
A  lofty  and  slender  campanile,  the  Torre 
delV  Orologio,  is  270  ft.  in  height, 
though  only  23  ft.  wide ;  the  range  of 
shields  on  it  are  those  of  the  ancient 
magistrates. 

The  Basilica,  or  Palazzo  delta  Ba* 
gione,  is  a  Gothic  building,  surrounded 
with  or  cased  in  galleries,  on  two  tiers, 
Doric  below,  Ionic  above,  by  Palladio, 
commenced  in  1560.  The  great  hall 
is  a  noble  apartment,  but  rather  dila- 
pidated. The  pictures  formerly  here 
have  been  recently  removed  to  the  Pi- 
nacoteca.  The  statue  of  Palladio  is  by 
the  Roman  sculptor  Gajassi,  and  a  gift 
of  a  patriotic  Venetian  nobleman, 
Conte  Bressan. 

Palazzo  del  Comune,  forming  the 
continuation  of  the  BasiHca  into  the 
neighbouring  Piazza  delta  Biada,  is 
partly  from  the  designs  of  Scamozzi ; 
it  now  contains  the  municipal  offices 
and  the  law-courts.  The  Torre  delV 
Orologio  is  connected  with  it. 

The  Palazzo  Prefettizio,  opposite  the 
Basihca,  was  designed  also  by  Palladio, 
but,  being  at  Rome  when  it  was  in 
the  course  of  construction,  it  is  said 
that  those  who  had  the   direction  of 

Q  3 


330 


Moute  8  i . —  Vtcenza^^  Churches; 


Sect.  rV* 


the  work  departed  from  his  designs. 
It  is  Corinthian,  rich  and  fanciful.  A 
narrower  front  towards  the  E.  is  a 
Koman  triumphal  arch  converted  into 
a  dwelling ;  and  Palladio  was  so  well 
pleased  with  his  work  that  he  has 
sculptured  his  fecit  upon  the  archi- 
trave. In  the  Sala  Bernardo^  so  called 
from  Battista  Bernardo,  governor  of 
the  city  at  the  time  of  the  erection  of  the 
palace,  are  good  paintings  by  Fassolo; 
the  subjects  are  taken  from  Koman  his- 
tory. The  building  next  to  this  palace 
is  the  Monte  di  Pieta. 

The  JhiomOy  or  Cathedral,  built  in 
1467.  is  a  Gothic  edifice  :  it  has  lately 
undergone  a  thorough  repair.  The 
nave  is  nearly  60  feet  wide ;  the  roof 
appears  low.  There  are  few  objects 
of  art  in  it  that  deserve  notice.  In 
the  JSarbarin  Chapel  (3rd  on  1.)  are 
some  ancient  frescoes  representing  the 
Martyrdom  of  Sta.  Montana,  much  in- 
jured by  restorations ;  two  pictures  by 
Zelotti.  In  the  6th  chapel  on  rt.  good 
pictures  of  the  Almighty,  with  Christ 
crucified,  and  the  "Virgin  and  Baptist, 
by  Bart.  Montagna;  SS.  Catherine  and 
Margaret,  by  Alessandro  Montagna. 
In  another  chapel  is  a  curious  paint- 
ing of  the  Virgin  and  Saints,  by  Lo- 
renzOf  dated  1366,  in  31  compartments, 
and  in  the  last  chapel  on  rt.  a  curious 
coloured  terracotta  composition  of 
Christ  entombed,  probably  of  the 
end  of  the  15th  cent.  The  choir  was 
erected  in  1574.  The  CouucU  of  Trent 
held  some  of  its  meetings  here. 

Ch.of /S^flM  Lorenzo f  an  elegant  Gothic 
edifice,  which,  having  for  a  long  time 
been  desecrated  and  converted  into  a 
military  store-house,  has  been  recently 
restored  to  its  primitive  destination. 
The  front  is  divided  by  7  high  pointed 
arches,  in  the  centre  of  which  is  the  fine 
porch,  having  on  either  side  canopied 
tombs  of  the  14th  century.  The  inte- 
rior contains  several  monuments,  many 
of  which  have  been  removed  here  from 
desecrated  churches.  On  the  left  hand 
of  the  entrance  is  tlie  tomb  of  Sca- 
mozzi,  with  his  hust;  and  beyond  it 
the  sepulchral  tahlet  of  B.  Montagna, 
who  died  in  1572.     The  monument  to 


Leonardo  Porto  is  in  the  form  of  a 
handsome  Ionic  portico,  having  his 
urn  in  the  centre,  and  those  of  two 
members  of  his  family  beneath.  The 
tomb  of  Isabella  Alledossi  consists  of 
a  cinquecetUo  urn.  On  the  waU  be- 
yond is  the  slab  tomb  that  formerly 
covered  the  grave  of  the  celebrated 
Giovanni  Giorgio  Trissino.  The  mo- 
nument of  IppoUto  Porto  has  some 
good  bas-reUefs.  Amongst  the  other 
sepulchral  monuments  in  San  Lorenzo 
are  those  of  Ferreti,  the  historian  of 
"Vicenza,  and  of  John  of  Schio,  or 
Schelders,  the  contemporary  and  friend 
of  St.  Dominick,  the  "  Angeli  Pacis 
Nuncius,"  "Tyrannorum  Gladius,"  and 
"  Hereticorum  Malleus,"  as  his  inscrip- 
tion teUs  us, "  qui  vigebat  saeculo  ferreo 
xiii." — Over  the  altar,  dedicated  to  SS, 
Lorenzo  and  Vincenzo^  is  a  much  in- 
jured painting  of  these  saints  by  Mon- 
tagna, with  a  view  of  the  ch.  in  the 
background. 

Cli.  of  La  Santa  Corona,  near  the 
Corso,  also  a  Gothic  edifice.  Seve- 
ral sepulchral  inscriptions  and  monu- 
ments have  been  removed  here  of  late 
years  from  other  churches.  In  the 
2nd  chapel  on  1.  a  good  picture  of  the 
Magdalen  and  4  Saints  by  B.  Montagna. 
The  high  altar  is  of  Florentine  mosaic 
work.  In  the  chapel  on  the  right  of 
it  are  two  fine  Gothic  tombs  of  the 
Tlene  family,  with  recumbent  sta- 
tues in  armour ;  the  tombs  and  orna- 
ments are  richly  gilt,  each  having 
a  fresco  of  the  Virgin  and  Child, 
In  the  4th  chapel  on  1.  a  Madonna 
crowned,  painted  by  Verda,  18th 
centy.  In  the  5th  chapel  on  the  1. 
there  is  a  magnificent  picture  of  the 
Baptism  in  the  Jordan,  by  Gfiovanni 
Bellini ;  the  figure  of  Christ  is  exqui- 
sitely beautiful,  and  the  expression 
angelic.  The  altar  of  this  chapel  is 
an  elaborate  cotemporary  work.  Ano- 
ther chapel  is  that  of  the  Beato 
Bartolommeo  d^  Breganze.  This 
Beato  was  a  most  fanatical  follower 
of  St.  Dominick ;  he  had  been  de- 
puted to  the  court  of  St.  Louis. 
From  a  second  inscription  in  another 
part  of  the  church,  in  which  he  is 


Venetian  Pro  v.     Route  31. —  Vicenza — ChurcJies — Palaces.  331 


styled  "Dux.  Marchio.  Comes,  Bar- 
barani  Rex  " — Barbarano  being  a  vil- 
lage on  the  Monte  Berico — ^he  must  have 
been  a  vain  man.  This  estimable  monk 
was  beatified  at  Borne  towards  the 
close  of  the  last  century,  at  the  in- 
stance and  heavy  cost  of  the  Bourbon 
dynasty  of  Parma. — In  the  3rd  chapel 
on  the  rt.  is  a  picture  of  the  Adoration 
of  the  Magi  by  Paolo  Veronese^  scarcely 
visible,  from  its  dark  tints,  and  the  bad 
light  in  which  it  is  placed.  Palladio, 
who  died  in  1580,  was  buried  in  this 
church,  in  a  tomb  prepared  two  years 
before,  for  himself  and  his  sons :  his 
remains  were  removed,  as  we  shall  see 
hereafter,  to  a  more  fitting  monument 
in  the  new  Campo  Santo. 

Church  of  San  Stefano  has  a  picture 
of  the  Virgin  between  S.  Vincent  and 
Sta.  Lucia,  by  Palma  VeccMOf  over  the 
altar  of  the  1.  transept :  and  a  St.  Paul, 
by  Tintoretto^  in  the  Ist  chapel  on  1. 

San  JPietrOy  to  which  is  annexed  the 
Ospizio  de^  Poveri.  Over  the  entrance 
of  the  Ospizio  is  a  bas-relief  by  Canova, 
a  female  figure  of  Charity,  writing  on 
a  pedestal  which  supports  the  bust  of 
Ottavio  Trento,  the  founder  of  the  in- 
stitution. The  statues  of  Adam  and 
Eve  are  by  Alhanese.  In  the  church  are 
some  good  pictures  by  Maganza,  a  king 
offering  liis  son  to  St.  Benedict,  St. 
Placidus,  and  St.  Maurus;  a  PietJt; 
Our  Savioiu*  presenting  Grarlands  of 
Flowers  to  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul. — 
Zelottiy  Christ  delivering  the  Keys  to 
St.  Peter. 

Vicenza  is  more  celebrated  perhaps 
than  any  other  town  in  Italy  for  its 
palaces.  They  may  be  classed  under 
two  heads ;  those  built  in  what  may  be 
caUed  the  Venetian  semi-G^othic  style, 
and  those  by  Palladio  and  his  followers 
in  the  Classical.  Of  the  former  the 
principal  are,  the  P.  del  Conte  SchiOj 
in  the  Corso,  a  fine  specimen  of  the 
period :  under  the  gateway  and  in  the 
court-yard  are  several  ancient  inscrip- 
tions, the  most  interesting  of  which 
are  3  in  what  has  been  caUed  the 
JSuganean  character  ;  they  were  found 
at  the  foot  of  the  hills  about  six  miles 
S.E.  of  Vicenza,  over  the  entrance  of  a 


cavern,  and  are  supposed  to  have  be- 
longed to  the  Euganean  tribes,  who 
preceded  the  Bomans  in  this  part  of 
Italy,  as  the  Etruscans  did  beyond  the 
Apennines. 

P.  Colleoni  Porto,  The  two  palaces 
belonging  to  this  family  are  also  in  the 
Venetian  style,  and  stand  close  to  each 
other.  One  of  them  has  a  very  handsome 
gateway,  and  contains  a  few  second- 
rate  pictures  of  the  Venetian  school. 

Among  the  fine  specimens  of  Palla- 
dian  architecture  in  Vicenza,  the  follow- 
ing are  the  most  remarkable : — 

P.  ParbaranOfhy  Palladio,  Ionic  and 
Corinthian,  with  rich  festoons. 

P.  Chiericati,  in  the  Piazza  dell'  Isola, 
at  the  E .  extremity  of  the  Corso.  Of  the 
edifice  Palladio  was  particularly  proud, 
and  with  reason.  The  lower  order  has 
a  fine  Doric  portico,  the  upper  an 
Ionic,  with  two  Loggie  on  the  sides. 
This  palace,  which  was  falling  •  into 
ruin,  was  purchased  by  the  Muni- 
cipality, and  beautifully  restored  ac- 
cording to  the  original  plans  of  the 
great  architect ;  it  is  now  one  of  the 
finest  of  PaUadio's  palaces,  and  amongst 
the  most  remarkable  in  his  native  city ; 
it  has  been  converted  into  a  museum  and 
pictiu^-gallery,  of  which  we  shall  speak 
hereafter.  The  general  design  is  very 
fine,  and  the  interior  arrangements  are 
managed  with  great  skill.  It  escaped 
narrowly  in  1848,  during  the  bombard- 
ment of  Vicenza  by  the  Austrians,  a 
cannon-shot  having  pierced  the  roof 
and  injured  the  vaulting  of  its  great 
saloon. 

P.  Tiene.  Had  this  been  completed, 
it  would  have  been  the  largest  palace 
in  the  city.  "  The  architect  is  said 
to  have  been  the  proprietor,  Co\mt 
Marc  Antonio  Tiene,  the  contemporary 
and  friend  of  Palladio,  from  whom,  no 
doubt,  he  has  largely  bon'owed.  Sca- 
mozzi  seems  to  have  completed  it.  It 
consists  of  two  orders,  Corinthian  and 
Composite,  and  an  attic ;  the  lower 
order  is  partly  rusticated,  and  an  im- 
post moulding  contracts  the  heads  of 
the  windows,  which  are  square.  The 
upper  windows  are  smaller  at  top 
than  at  bottom,  but  the  diminution  is 


332 


Route  3 1 . —  Vicenza —  Theatre. 


Sect.  IV. 


slight  J  altogether  the  building  is  very 
beautiful.  The  back  consists  of  an 
open  colonnade  of  two  orders,  closed 
at  each  end ;  the  middle  intercolumnia- 
tion  is  wider  than  the  others,  and  has 
some  masonry  and  an  arch  within  it. 
The  front  has  eight  columns  in  each 
story  ;  the  back  ten." —  Woods. 

P.  del  Conte  Porto  al  Castello  (but 
for  which  the  stranger  must  inquire 
under  the  name  Ca'  del  Diavolo). 
"  Tliis  fragment  is  by  some  attributed 
to  Palladio,  by  others  to  Scamozzi  j 
but  the  latter  disclaimed  it,  and  it  ap- 
pears to  me  to  be  Palladian.  Whoever 
was  the  arcliitect,  we  may  certainly 
pronounce  it  a  noble  design,  although  a 
very  small  part  has  been  executed,  and 
that  fragment  is  nearly  in  ruins." — 
Woods, 

P.  Valmarana^  by  Palladio,  onlj 
in  part  completed :  Composite. 

P.  TrissinOj  in  the  Corso,  by  Sca- 
mozzi. *'  This  is  probably  one  of  his 
best  works,  and  is  a  noble  edifice,  though 
it  wants  something  of  that  undefinable 
grace  of  proportion  we  admire  in  Pal- 
ladio, and  it  stands  in  so  narrow  a 
street  that  one  can  hardly  judge  of  it 
fairly.  It  has  a  range  of  nine  windows 
on  the  principal  floor,  with  interme- 
diate pilasters  doubled  at  the  angles  ; 
but  the  change  of  design  in  the  three 
middle  divisions,  the  high  unmeaning 
arch  in  the  centre,  and  the  double  pi- 
lasters separating  the  centre  from  the 
wings  are  so  many  defects." — Woods. 
The  Pal.  Trissino  was  never  completed, 
the  front  towards  the  Contrada  di  San 
Stefano  being  alone  finished.  It  is  now 
occupied  by  the  Custom-house. 

P.  Trento  is  also  by  Scamozzi  : 
much  plainer  than  the  preceding. 

P.  del  Conte  Orazio  Porto.  This 
was  designed  by  Palladio  for  Conte 
Griuseppe  Porto,  and  a  great  part  of  it 
executed  under  his  eyes;  but  it  has 
never  been  completed. 

P.CordelUna,  by  Calderari,  now  oc- 
cupied by  the  Elementary  Schools. 

Among  the  remarkable  Iwmes  of 
Vicenza  are  those  of  Palladio  and 
Pigafetta. 

Casa  di  Palladio,  in  the  Corso,  sup- 


posed to  have  been  built  by  the  great 
architect  for  his  own  use,  whilst  by 
others  it  is  attributed  to  Conte  Pietro 
Cogollo,  a  Venetian  patrician.  It  is  a 
Palladian  adaptation  of  a  triumphal 
arch. 

Ca^a  Pigafetta.  This  is  a  beauti- 
ful edifice,  but  in  a  very  difierent 
style.  Being  situated  in  a  dark,  dirty, 
and  out-of-the-way  street — ^a  very  Edin- 
burgh Wynd — (the  Contrada  della  Lu- 
na, below  and  behind  the  Basilica), 
it  has  little  attracted  the  notice  of 
travellers.  It  is  a  fine  specimen  of  the- 
highly  decorated  domestic  architecture 
of  the  15th  centy.,  having  been  com- 
pleted in  1481.  It  consists  of  a  base- 
ment and  2  upper  stories,  surmounted 
by  a  cornice.  On  the  basement  are 
sculptured  groups  of  roses,  with  the  in- 
scription in  French,  "  II  n'est  rose  sans 
epine."  Each  of.i;he  3  windows  have 
elaborately-carved  balconies  and  cano- 
pies, ornamented  with  grifibns  and 
other  animals,  the  spaces  between  bemg 
covered  with  arabesques  in  low  relief 
flowers,  eagles,  &c.  This  Hjov,  of  archi- 
tecture— for  it  is  scarcely  8  yards  in 
front — was  inhabited  by  the  celebrated 
navigator  Antonio  Pigafetta,  one  of 
the  companions  of  Magellan;  the  family 
still  exists  at  Vicenza.  The  name  of 
the  architect  is  not  known. 

Teatro  OUmpico,  if  not  the  finest, 
yet  the  most  curious  of  the  works  of 
Palladio.  The  Accademia  Olimpica  of 
Vicenza  had  been  accustomed  to  act 
translations  of  the  ancient  Greek  tra- 
gedies, and  Palladio  being  a  member 
they  employed  him  to  give  the  designs 
for  tliis  fabric,  of  which  the  first 
stone  was  laid  on  the  23rd  of  May, 
1580  ;  but  in  consequence  of  the  death 
of  the  architect,  which  followed  almost 
immediately  afterwards,  it  was  raised 
and  completed  by  SdUa  Palladio,  liis 
son.  He  followed,  as  strictly  as  he 
could,  the  text  of  Vitruvius  and  the 
remains  wliich  existed.  The  scenery, 
which  is  fixed,  represents  the  side  of  a 
species  of  piazza,  from  which  diverge 
streets  of  real  elevation,  but  diminish- 
ing in  size  as  they  recede  in  the  per- 
spective.    A  considerable  effect  of  dis- 


Vknet.  Pro  v.  lioute  31. —  Vicenza — Pinacotecd, 


8S3 


tance  is  obtained,  especially  in  tlie 
middle  avenue.  Dayliglit,  however,  by 
vrhich.  a  traveller  usually  sees  it,  is 
injurious  to  its  effect.  On  the  opening 
of  the  theatre  the  academicians  per- 
formed the  Edipus  Tyrannus,  a  play  to 
wliich  the  scenery  is  entirely  unadapted. 
It  is  such  as  would  have  been  used 
for  the  comedies  of  Menander,  and 
the  other  plays  of  the  New  Comedy. 
It  would  be  admirably  adapted  for  the 
representation  of  the  comedies  of  Te- 
rence by  the  Queen's  scholars  at  West- 
minster. The  custode  speaks  English, 
and  will  prove  a  good  guide  for  going 
over  the  sights  at  Vicenza. 

The  Museum,  or  Finacoteca  Civica, 
now  placed  in  the  Palazzo  Chiericati, 
contains  some  good  pictures,  partly 
brought  from  the  Basilica  and  Palazzo 
del  Comune,  but  chiefly  presented  by  3 
patriotic  citizens — the  Countess  Piga- 
fetta  Vessari,  Count  Egidio  di  Velo 
(who  raised  the  moniunent  to  Palla- 
dio  in  the  cemetery),  and  Count  Yicen- 
tino  del  Giglio, — whose  names  deserve 
to  be  recorded.  It  has  been  pur- 
chased by  the  MunicipaUty,  and  mag- 
nificently restored  in  order  to  adapt  it 
to  its  present  destination.  The  paleice 
is  entered  from  the  Piazza  dell'  Isola, 
under  the  Doric  portico,  by  a  handsome 
vestij)ule,  paved  with  ancient  marbles, 
discovered  in  the  excavations  of  the 
neighbouring  Boman  theatre.  From 
here  a  handsome  staircase,  lined  with 
medallions  of  celebrated  men  of  Vi- 
cenza, leads  to  the  grand  apartments  ; 
the  great  haU,  a  splendid  room,  and 
4  adjoining  ones  on  the  N.,  are  entirely 
filled  with  paintings.  As  tliere  is  a 
good  catalogue  of  them,  we  shall 
merely  notice  the  most  remarkable : 
— Oiorgione,  ih.Q  Portrait  ofPietrodi 
Abano ;  i.  Bassano,  the  Madonna  and 
Child,  with  G-.  Moro  and  S.  CapeUo, 
the  chief  Magistrates  of  the  City, 
kneeling  before  the  Virgin,  and  some 
portraits,  one  of  which  is  of  Eracastoro ; 
CH>ma  da  GoneglianOy  a  Virgin  and 
Child,  bearing  the  painter's  name  and 
the  date.  May  1,  1489 ;  B,  Montagna, 
two  pictures  of  the  Virgin  and  Cliild, 
also  signed,  and  the  Martyrdom  of  St. 


Biagio,  in  3  compartments ;  Titian,  a 
half  figure  of  the  Magdalen,  very  expres- 
sive; Tewpesta,  3  landscapes;  Peru* 
gino,  Santa  Barbara,  a  pretty  figure  ofa 
female  saint ;  PomIus  de  Venetiis,  a  cu- 
rious old  picture  of  the  Madonna  and 
Saints,  signed  and  dated  1323 ;  Gio. 
Bellini,  Virgin  and  Child ;  P.  Veronese, 
same  subject,  much  retouched  ;  Luini, 
an  oblong  picture  of  an  Eastern  king 
presenting  gifts  to  the  Virgin  and 
Child,  colouring  good;  2Juca  Gior- 
dano,  3  large  pictures — Paris  and  the 
Grraces,  very  good;  and  Giorgione,  a 
supposed  portrait  of  Ariosto  ;  Giacomo 
Tintoretto,  a  Scene  of  the  Plague ;  Gio. 
Bellini,  what  is  called  a  Portrait  of 
Cardinal  Bembo ;  JSlisabetta  Sirani^ 
the  Portrait  of  a  Young  Lady. 

Beyond  the  picture  gallery,  on 
the  N.  side  of  the  palace,  in  two 
rooms,  are  placed  an  extensive  series 
of  engravings,  and  a  collection  of 
56  original  drawings,  by  the  three 
great  arc]iitects  of  Vicenza  —  Palla- 
dio,  Scamozzi,  and  Calderari.  Those 
of  Palladio  are  particularly  interesting. 
They  consist  of  designs  for  some  mo- 
dem edifices,  such  as  the  palace  at 
Vicenza,  and  the  Rialto  bridge  at  Ve- 
nice ;  and  of  copies  of  ancient  Roman 
edifices,  triumphal  arches,  temples, 
thermee,  &c.,  as  they  existed  at  his 
time.  Several  of  these  valuable  designs 
had  been  deposited  in  the  archives  of 
the  Municipality ;  others  were  given 
by  a  Veronese  citizen,  Pinah.  In  a 
series  of  small  apartments  on  the  op- 
posite side  of  the  Great  Sala  are  placed 
the  collections  of  natural  history,  con- 
sisting principally  of  objects  from  the 
neighbouring  provinces.  The  series  of 
quadrupeds  and  birds  are  very  com- 
plete, as  are  also  the  minerals  and  fossil 
organic  remains ;  amongst  the  latter 
will  be  worthy  of  the  attention  of  the 
naturaUst  the  remains  of  a  rhinoceros 
in  the  bone  breccia  of  Monte  Zopea, 
nearSoave,  and  a  fine  fossil  shark  from 
Monte  Bolca ;  there  is  also  an  extensive 
herbariiun,  in  which  has  been  incorpo- 
rated that  of  the  Venetian  provinces, 
formed  by  the  celebrated  Arduino.  In 
an  adjoining  apartment  are  the  coins^ 


334 


Moute  31. — Neighbourhood  of  Vicenza.  Sect.  IV* 


and  the  smaller  specimens  of  ancient 
sculpture,  discovered  by  Count  Velo 
during  liis  excavations  at  Rome,  chiefly 
in  the  baths  of  Caracalla  ;  and  on  the 
ground  floor  the  larger  objects,  and  seve- 
ral fragments  dug  out  during  the  recent 
excavations  of  the  neighbouring  theatre. 

The  CoUegio  Cordellino  is  an  edu- 
cational establishment  for  the  upper 
classes,  on  the  same  plan  as  the  French 
Imperial  Lycees.  It  is  located  in  the 
suppressed  convent  of  San  Marcello. 
The  first  court  (the  former  cloister)  has 
been  surrounded  by  a  handsome  double 
row  of  colonnades  by  the  native  archi- 
tect, Malacame. 

Theatre. — The  Teatro  Sretenio  is 
not  very  large,  but  is  neatly  fitted  up ; 
the  performances  in  general  are  good. 

llie  country  about  Vicenza  is  beau- 
tifully varied  with  hill  and  dale. 
About  }  m.  from  the  city  is  the  Monte 
Berico,  celebrated  for  its  sanctuary 
erected  upon  the  summit  in  1420  in 
honour  oi  a  supposed  apparition  of  the 
Virgin.  It  is  joined  to  Vicenza  by  a 
continued  range  of  arcades,  730  yards 
long,  with  168  arches.  Each  of  the 
arches  of  the  Portici  del  Monte  bears 
the  shield,  device,  or  name  of  the  fi*a- 
ternity  or  individual  at  whose  expense 
it  was  erected.  There  is  no  peculiai* 
beauty  in  the  architecture,  but  the 
long  succession  of  arcades  is  striking. 

The  ch.,  which  is  called  Sta.  Maria 
del  Monte,  was  small  and  of  pointed 
architecture,  erected  in  1428,  to  com- 
memorate the  apparition  of  the  Virgin 
to  a  lady  of  Vicenza,  and  the  liberation 
of  the  town  from  the  plague  j  but  a  large 
new  part  was  added  in  1688,  in  the 
form  of  a  Greek  cross,  which  internally 
is  very  beautiful.  What  was  once  the 
nave  of  the  old  ch.  has  thus  become  the 
transept  of  the  new  building,  and  the 
altar  has  been  removed  from  the  recess 
in  the  end  of  the  former  building  to 
a  place  which  was  the  middle  of  one 
of  the  aisles.  It  contains  some  good 
paintings  of  B.  Montagna :  at  the  altar 
of  the  Virgin,  the  Madonna  with  the 
dead  Christ  and  Saints,  signed  and 
dated  by  the  painter,  1500  ;  reckoned 
one  of  his  best  pictures.    This  edifice, 


and  the  adjoining  conventual  buildings, 
sufiered  much  from  their  occupation  by 
a  Croat  regiment  in  184<8,when  the  Sup- 
per of  St.  Gregory  the  Great,  by  Paul 
Veronese,  so  narrowly  escaped  total 
destruction.  This  fine  painting,  only 
second  in  size  to  that  of  the  Marriage 
of  Cana  in  the  Louvre,  stood  in  the  re- 
fectory of  the  Convent,  where  it  was  most 
wantonly  mutilated,  literally  hacked 
into  32  pieces,  by  the  Austrian  soldiery 
who  occupied  tliat  building  after  the 
bombardment  of  Vicenza  in  1848.  The 
fr'agments  have  been  since  put  together, 
after  a  good  copy  of  the  original,  which 
had  luckily  been  made  some  years 
before,  and  which  is  now  in  the 
Pinacoteca.  It  was  from  the  hill  be- 
fore it  that  the  Austrians,  after  having 
driven  away  the  Italian  corps  which 
defended  the  heights,  so  cruelly 
bombarded  Vicenza  on  the  24th  of 
May  of  that  year,  during  9  successive 
hours. 

Although  this  church  is  not  situated 
on  the  highest  part  of  the  hill,  its 
elevation  (320  feet  above  Vicenza)  is 
such,  that  the  view  from  its  campanile, 
or  from  some  of  the  villas  ne.ar  it,  is 
most  extensive.  Looking  to  the  N.E., 
but  at  a  great  distance,  are  seen  the 
snow-capped  peaks  of  Friuli ;  to  the  N. 
are  the  Alps  beyond  £a«sano,  the  gorge 
through  which  the  Breuta  breaks  into 
the  plain,  the  serrated  ridges  which  en- 
circle the  upper  valley  of  the  Adige,  at 
the  foot  of  which  can  be  easily  descried 
the  large  towns  of  Bassano,  Schio,  and 
Treviso,  and,  on  a  clear  day,  even  the 
temple  of  Possagno  raised  by  Canova, 
and  in  the  foreground  the  Vicentine  and 
Veronese  liills;  to  theN.W.  the  two 
castles  of  Montecchio  form  very  pictu- 
resque objects  in  the  landscape;  looking 
towards  the  E.  you  see  the  Euganean 
hills,  separated  from  the  Alps  by  the 
wide  plain  in  which  Padua  is  clearly 
visible,  and  extending  to  the  Lagoons  of 
Venice  and  to  the  shores  of  the  Adri- 
atic j  between  the  Euganean  group  of 
hills  and  the  equally  insulated  one  of 
the  Monti  Berici,  on  which  we  stand, 
is  the  depression  through  which  a  por- 
tion of  the  waters  of  the  BacchigUone 


Vj^ktiax  Pbov.     Route  H,—IfeighbourJu)od  of  Vioenza. 


335 


are  carried  to  fonn  the  canal  of  Este, 
communicating  with  the  Adige ;  be- 
hind and  to  the  S.  extend  the  Monti 
Berici  towards  Montagnano,  covered 
with  villaB  of  the  Yicentine  gentry, 
amongst  which  that  of  Count  Bam- 
boldo,  on  the  site  of  a  Cistercian  Con- 
vent, is  worthy  of  a  visit. 

Near  th.eI*orta  del  Castello^JMstout' 
side  of  "Vicenza,  is  a  remarkable  tower, 
dark  and  deeply  machicolated,  which 
forms  rather  a  prominent  object  in  the 
view  from  the  Monte.  It  was  erected 
by  the  ScaUgers  as  the  March  Tower 
between  Lombardy  and  the  Venetian 
states,  and  it  is  now  used  as  the  cam- 
panUe  of  an  adjoining  church. 

At  the  foot  of  Monte  Berico  is  the 
Soionda  Capra,  so  well  known  as  Palla- 
dio's  Villa,  copied  by  Lord  Burlington 
at  Chiswick.    "  It  is  a  square  building, 
containing  a  round  saloon  lighted  from 
above.     'From,  the  four  sides  you  ascend 
on  broad  stairs,  and  reach  at  every  side 
a  porch  formed  by  6  Corinthian  pillars. 
It    may   be    that    architecture    never 
pushed  splendour  to  a  higher  pitch. 
The  space  taken  up  by  stairs  and  porches 
is  far  greater  than  that  of  the  building, 
because  every  side  would  be  quite  suffi- 
cient for  the  entrance  to  any  temple. 
The  saloon  exhibits  the  finest  propor- 
tions, as  well  as  the  rooms.    Every 
side  presents  itself  from  all  parts  of  the 
adjoining  country  in  a  most  magnifi- 
cent manner." — Goethe.    TheRotonda 
is  now  falling  into  ruin.   Occupied,  like 
the  Convent  of  Monte  Berico,  by  the 
Austrian    soldiery    in    1848,    it    was 
stripped  of  everything  that  could  be 
carried  away,  its  furniture  dispersed, 
the  statues  mutilated.   It  presents  now 
a  sad  picture  of  abandonment  and  di- 
lapidation. 

Not  far  from  the  Botonda  is  the 
Villa  Valmaranay  surrounded  by  ex- 
tensive gardens.  The  villa  consists  of 
3  separate  casinos;  in  the  central  or 
largest  is  a  large  saloon  covered  with 
frescoes  by  Tiepoloy  who  has  also 
painted  some  rooms  in  the  two  others. 

Just  beyond  the  Porta  di  San  Barto- 
lommeo  is  the  Palazzo  Trissvno  in  Cri- 
coliy  interesting,  both  on  account  of  its 


beauty,  and  as  having  been  the  resi- 
dence of  the  celebrated  Giovanni  Griorgio 
TrissinOj  whose  name  appears  on  the 
architraves  of  the  upper  windows.  Tris- 
sino  was  a  poet  of  considerable  emi- 
nence, and  it  is  said  that  the  palace 
was  bmlt  fi*om  his  own  designs.  The 
honour  is  claimed  also  for  PaUadio. 

The  Public  Cemetery  is  one  of  those 
useful    establishments    which    do    so 
much  credit  to  the  municipal  bodies 
of  the  large  towns  in  N.  Italy.     It  is 
situated  J  m.  beyoild  the  town,  the  sub- 
urb leading  to  which  bore  until  lately 
numerous  marks  of  the  mihtary  opera- 
tions of  1848.     The  cemetery  has  been 
erected  from  the  designs  of  the  archi- 
tect Malacarne,  and  consists  of  a  large 
quadrangle  surrounded  by  a  high  waU, 
round  the  interior  of  which  run  4  por- 
ticoes with  124  arches,  built  of  brick, 
and   which,  instead  of  being  covered 
with  cement,  have  been  hacked,  to  give 
the  whole  a  semi-ruined  appearance,  in 
harmony  with  their  destination.  Under 
the  arcades  are  placed  the  vaults  and 
monuments  of  the  higher  classes ;   in 
the  centre,   the  graves   of   the  poor. 
I  Many  of  the  tombs  are  worthy  of  notice 
as  works  of  art.  In  theicentre  of  the  N.  W. 
arcade  is  the  monument  to  PaUadio,  by 
Fahris,  of  Rome,  raised  at  an  expense 
of    15,000   dollars,    by    Count    Velo. 
Palladio's    remains,    which    formerly 
lay  in  the  ch.  of  Santa  Corona,  have 
been    removed    here.     Of   the  other 
monuments  may  be  noticed   those   of 
Countess  luabella  Velo,  with  a  fine  re- 
cumbent figure  of  the  deceased  on  an 
urn  ;  of  her  brother  Count  Velo,  above 
mentioned;    of  the  Toguzzaro  family, 
by  an  artist  of  Padua ;    of  Count  Tris- 
sino;  and  of  the  Prince  of  La  Tour  et 
Taxis,   an  Austrian  general,  killed  in 
1848  in  the  conflict  wliich  took  place 
close  to  the  gates  of  this  cemetery. 

Plan  for  visiting  (in  one  day)  the 
•principal  Sights  at  Vicenza,  in  topo- 
graphical order. 

Dtiomo  or  Cathedral;  Ch.  of  San 
Lorenzo;  Pal.  Trissino;  Piazza  dei 
Signori ;     Palazzo   Prefettizio ;     Pa- 


aae 


lioute  3 1 . — Hecoaro — Bassano, 


Sect  IV. 


lazzo  delta  JRagtone;  Casa  Pigafetta; 
CliB.  of  San  Stefano  and  Sta,  Corona; 
Souse  ofPalladio ;  Pal.  Chiericati  and 
Museum ;  Teatro  Olinvpico ;  Campo 
Santo;  Rotunda diPalladio ;  VillaVal- 
marana ;  Madonna  di  Monte  Berico. 


[The  baths  of  Secoaro  are  26  m. 
from  Vicenza  to  the  N.W.,  at  the  head 
of  the  valley  of  the  Agno ;  there  are  two 
intermediate  relays,  the  first  at  Monte- 
bellOf  and  the  second  at  Valdagno ; 
they  are  principally  frequented  dur- 
ing the  months  of  July  and  August, 
during  which  a  diligence  leaves  Vicenza 
at  9J  A.M.  and  3  p.m.,  returning  at  7 
and  11  A.M.  daUy.  There  are  several 
good  Inns  (that  kept  by  Domenico  Tret- 
.  tenero  excellent),  and  every  accommoda- 
tion for  persons  frequenting  the  baths  : 
indeed  Eecoaro  may  be  resorted  to  as 
a  very  cool  and  agreeable  summer  resi- 
dence, little  inferior  m  this  respect  to 
the  Baths  of  Lucca.  The  waters  of 
Eecoaro,  which  are  femiginous,  are 
sent  in  bottles,  properly  sealed,  to 
all  parts  of  Italy.  Persons  using 
them  should  see  that  the  small  leaden 
seal  bears  the  date  of  the  current  year : 
if  kept  beyond  the  year  the  iron 
precipitates.  The  season  for  bottUng 
the  water  begins  in  May.  Another  mine- 
ral water,  Aqua  CatuUiana,  containing 
a  rather  strong  solution  of  sulphate  of 
iron,  is  also  procured  in  the  neighbour- 
hood, and  is  sent  to  different  parts  of 
Italy.  Very  agreeable  excursions  may 
be  made  from  Vicenza  to  Recoaro,  the 
Sette  Commune,  &c.,  which,  belonging 
more  properly  to  the  Italian  Tyrol, 
are  described  in  the  Handbook  for  S. 
Qerinany.'\ 

The  roads  from  Vicenza  to  Inspruck, 
by  the  Val  de'  Signori  and  the  Val  Su- 
gana,  through  Schio,  Bassano,  &c.,  as 
well  as  those  to  Feltre  and  Bellimo, 
are  described  also  in  the  Handbook  for 
South  Germany  (Routes  222,  228, 232), 
in  connection  with  the  great  lines  of 
communication  across  the  Alps,  between 
the  QDyrol  and  Italy.    Public  convey- 


ances wiU  be  found  from  Vicenza  daily 
to  Schio,  Bassano,  and  Montagnano. 


Ficenza  to  Bassano,  Possagno,  and 
Asolo, 

A  very  interesting  excursion  may  be 
made  from  Viceoza  to  these  places, 
which,  although  described  in  oar 
Handbook  of  South  Germany  in  con- 
nexion with  the  Italian  Tyrol,  belong 
more  to  Italy  than  to  the  declivity  of 
the  RhaBtian  Alps.  Carriages  can  be 
hired  at  Vicenza  for  the  whole  ex- 
cursion, or  for  Bassano  only,  to  which 
there  are  daily  public  conveyances 
from  the  rly.  stat.  There  are  two  roads 
— that  through  Marostica,  remarkable 
for  its  mediaeval  defences,  the  shortest 
and  best;  the  other  through  Citta- 
deUa,  and  from  there  following  the 
rich  plain  of  the  Brenta:  distance 
about  20  m. 

Bassano  (Inns:  Sant' Antonio,  clean, 
and  civil  people ;  11  Mondo),  a  pic- 
turesque town,  whose  old  walls  are 
draped  with  ivy,  of  12,000  Inhab., 
prettily  situated  on  the  Brenta,  here 
crossed  by  a  covered  wooden  bridge, 
which  replaces  one  blown  up  by  the 
French.  Palladio  had  previously  con- 
structed a  bridge  here,  swept  away  by 
an  inundation  of  the  Brenta  in  1748. 
The  painter  Giacomo  da  PontevrdA  bom 
here,  better  known  as  Bassano,  after 
his  native  place. 

The  Museum,  in  Piazza  San  Fran- 
cesco, contains  a  valuable  library  of 
60,000  vols. ;  a  collection  of  autographs, 
1.5th  to  19th  centy. ;  a  Picture  Gallery , 
in  which  are  many  works  of  the  Da 
Ponte  family,  of  Guariento,  Dazio  da 
Trevigi,  P.  Veronese,  Bonifazio,  &c. 
Casts  from  the  works  of  Canova,  and 
a  collection  of  his  Drawings  and  MSS., 
were  the  gift  of  his  broUier.  Coins, 
Roman,  Consular,  and  Imperial ;  Ve- 
netian of  the  middle  ages.  Prints, 
12,000,  including  playing-cards  by 
Mantegna  and  Schongauer ;  many  rare 
engravings  of  Ugo  da  Carpi,  Ant.  da 
Trento,  G.  and  Nicolo  Vicentiui,  &c. 
Geological  specimens    and    minerals, 


Venetian  Prov,  Route  31. — Possagno. 


337 


the  gift  of  Cav.  Parolini  to  his  native 
city,  partly  formed  by  the  eminent 
geologist  G.  B.  Brocchi,  a  native  of 
Bassano.  The  Castle,  in  the  centre  of 
the  town,  built  by  the  tyrant  Eccelino 
da  Romano,  is  now  the  archbishop's 
palace.  It  is  partly  in  ruins,  but  is 
imposing  from  its  situation  and  group 
of  many  towers.  The  view  from  the 
castle  is  fine.  The  Palace  of  the 
Podesta  contains  some  frescoes  and 
statues. 

The  Villa  JRezzonico,  near  the  town, 
is  celebrated  for  its  exquisite  views, 
extending  as  far  as  the  Euganean  hills, 
and  over  those  of  the  Sette  Communi, 
Asolo,  &c.  It  contains,  besides  other 
works  of  art,  an  oil  painting  of  the 
Death  of  Socrates,  by  Canova.  The 
grounds  of  the  Villa  rarolini,  outside 
the  walls,  are  handsomely  laid  out,  and 
contain  a  Pinetum  and  a  good  botanical 
garden. 

In  1 796  Napoleon,  in  this  neighbour- 
hood, surprised  and  annihilated  the 
Austrian  army  under  Wurmser,  4  days 
after  the  battle  of  Roveredo;  having 
made  a  forced  march  from  Trent,  60 
m.,  in  the  short  space  of  2  days. 
He  subsequently  bestowed  the  title  of 
Duke  of  Bassano  on  his  minister  Maret. 

IPossagno,  the  birthplace  of  Canova, 
is  only  2  hours*  drive  from  Bassano : 
the  distance  is  about  10  m.,  a  walk  of 
rather  more  than  3  hrs.  The  road  is 
good,  and  runs  through  a  lovely  coun- 
try, passing  by  Romano,  the  birthplace 
of  the  afterwards  noted  tyrant  of  Pa- 
dua Eccelino,  and  the  village  of  Cres- 
pano  ;  this  district  suffered  much  from 
the  earthquake  in  1846,  the  central  or 
most  violent  action  of  which  was  about 
Romano.  The  road  runs  along  the 
last  declivities  of  the  Vicentine  Alps, 
and  over  the  tertiary  hills,  which  ex- 
tend from  their  base  to  the  great  plain 
between  the  Brenta  and  the  Piave. 
The  village  of  Possagno,  the  name  of 
which  would  probably  have  never  been 
heard  of  beyond  its  own  province  but 
for  the  great  sculptor,  whose  father 
was  an  obscure  architect  and  builder 
of  the  place,  is  prettily  situated  at 
the  base  of  one  of  the  most  southern 
spurs  of  the  Alps,  in  a  small  valley 


separating  it  from  the  tertiary  group 
of  the  Asolan  hills.  With  the  laui 
able  intention  of  conferring  a  per- 
manent benefit  on  the  place  of  his 
birth,  and  of  leaving  a  monument  of 
his  truly  Christian  piety,  Canova 
began  during  his  lifetime  a  magnificent 
Chifrchf  in  the  form  of  an  antique 
temple,  combining  the  Doric  peristyle 
of  the  Parthenon  with  the  cupola  of 
the  Pantheon.  The  general  plan  was 
by  Canova  himself,  but  the  carrying 
out  of  the  work  was  intrusted  to  an 
architect  of  the  neighbouring  town 
of  Crespano,  Giovanni  Zardo,  by 
whom  it  was  completed  after  the 
sculptor's  death.  The  ch.  is  dedi- 
cated to  the  Creator  and  the  Holy 
Trinity,  having  on  the  fagade  the  in- 
scription, **  Deo  Opt.  Max.  Uno  ac 
Trino."  It  contains  an  altarpiece 
painted  by  the  founder,  but  possessing 
little  merit ;  a  bronze  bas-relief  of  the 
Entombment,  a  veiy  fine  work,  and 
the  last  which  he  modelled ;  and  the 
tomb  of  Canova,  whose  body  was  re- 
moved here  from  Venice,  where  he 
died  on  the  13th  Oct.  1822,  and  which 
is  deposited  in  a  marble  urn  made  by 
himself  for  the  tomb  of  a  Marchese 
Berio  at  Naples,  and  which  had  not 
been  claimed  by  that  family.  He  left 
by  his  will  funds  to  complete  the 
church,  and  to  erect  a  magnijicent 
Bridge  of  a  single  arch  (110  ft.  span) 
over  the  stream  of  the  Astego,  so  as  to 
render  Possagno  more  accessible  to 
travellers.  This  bridge  is  crossed 
about  J  of  the  way  from  Bassano  to 
Possagno,  just  beyond  the  village  of 
Crespano.  It  is  principally  of  brick, 
the  arch  being  of  that  material ;  part 
of  the  spandrils,  and  the  base  and 
coping  of  the  parapet,  are  of  stone. 
This  munificence  of  Canova  to  Pos- 
sagno becomes  a  perpetual  legacy  and 
benefit,  from  the  influx  of  strangers 
resorting  to  the  spot,  whom  he  and  his 
works  have  attracted  to  it. 

Canova*8  House,  called  the  Palazzo, 
the  most  remarkable  building  in  the 
village,  for  the  church  or  temple  is  on 
the  hill  above  it,  is  elegantly  fitted  up, 
and  contains  many  interesting  relics  of 
the  great  sculptor,    A  very  handsome 


338 


Route  31. — Asob — Castelfranco, 


Sect  IV. 


wing  has  been  added  to  it  siuce  his 
death,  by  his  brother,  to  form  a  mu- 
seum, which  contains  casts  of  most  of 
his  works,  some  of  his  unfinished 
sculptures,  and  a  monument  to  the 
daughter  of  a  Spanish  nobleman  the 
Marquez  de  Santa  Cruz,  which  being 
unpaid  for  remained  on  his  hands.  The 
Museum  and  the  House  are .  liberally 
shown  to  visitors. 

An  interesting  excursion  may  be 
made  from  Possagno  to  Asolo  (4  m.), 
a  very  picturesque  mediseval  town 
of  3500  Inhab.,  at  the  foot  of  a  hill 
surmounted  by  the  ruins  of  a  castle, 
from  which  one  of  the  most  exten- 
sive panoramas  of  the  great  plains 
of  the  Brenta  and  the  Piave,  with  the 
encircling  Alps,  and  the  distant  in- 
sulated group  of  the  Euganeau  hills, 
opens  before  the  traveller.  On  a  fine 
summer  evening  the  silver  lines  of  the 
Piave  and  the  Brenta  may  be  followed 
from  where  they  emerge  from  tlieir 
Alpine  valleys  to  the  sea,  in  the  midst 
of  the  green  alluvial  plain,  in  which 
Treviso,  Vicenza,  Padua,  are  easily 
recognised.  Venice,  with  its  cupolas 
and  steeples,  is  seen  near  the  extreme 
E.  horizon,  terminated  by  the  blue 
line  of  the  Adriatic ;  whilst  behind,  to 
the  N.,  the  snow-capped  peaks  of  the 
Rhsetian  Alps  rise  in  majestic  grandeur. 

The  town  of  Asolo  is  surrounded 
by  a  wall  with  mediaeval  turrets,  and 
several  of  its  houses  have  painted 
fa9ades.  In  the  Town-house  is  pre- 
served one  of  Canova's  earliest  pro- 
ductions, a  bas-relief,  presented  by  him 
to  the  municipality  in  grateful  remem- 
brance of  their  having  conferred  upon 
him  his  first  title  of  nobility,  when  it 
had  been  indignantly  refused  to  him 
by  the  authorities  of  Bassano,  on  the 
plea  of  his  being  a  mere  stone-cutter,  a 
taglia  pietra. 

The  Castle,  a  quadrangular  building, 
with  a  donjon  tower,  is  an  interesting 
monument  of  the  13th  centy.  It  was 
the  residence  of  the  beautiful  Caterina 
Cornaro,  the  last  Queen  of  Cyprus, 
after  the  forced  resignation  of  her  king- 
dom to  the  Venetians  in  1489.  Here 
this  lady  of  elegant  taste  and  refined 


education  closed  her  days  in  compara- 
tive obscurity,  in  the  enjoyment  of  an 
empty  title,  and  a  splendid  income,  and 
surrounded  by  a  small  intellectual 
court  and  several  literary  characters. 
Of  those,  one  of  the  most  celebrated 
was  Pietro  Bembo,  the  historian  of 
Venice,  afterwards  cardinal,  whose 
philosophical  dialogues  on  the  nature  of 
love,  the  '  Asolani,^  have  derived  their 
name  from  this  locality. 

The  geologist  will  find  much  to 
interest  him  in  the  country  about  Bas- 
sano, Possagno,  and  Asolo,  which  was 
for  the  .  first  time  illustrated  by  our 
distinguished  countryman  Sir  R.  Mur- 
chison,  to  whose  masterly  illustration 
of  the  geology  of  the  Alps  we  must 
refer  our  readers  for  one  of  the  best 
guides  to  this  remarkable  geological 
district. 

Good  roads  lead  from  Asolo  to 
Bassano  on  one  side,  and  to  Feltre, 
Belluno,  Treviso,  and  Vicenza  on  the 
other :  the  country  is  richly  cultivated : 
no  district  in  Northern  Italy  is  more 
delightfully  situated  than  the  Asolan 
hills.  **  A  few  miles  E.  of  Asolo,  on  the 
road  to  Cornuda,  is  Mese,  once  a  seat 
of  the  Venetian  Manins,  now  of  Sig. 
Giacometti,  containing  several  rooms 
painted  in  fresco  by  Paul  Veronese,  who 
has  introduced  his  own  and  his  wife's 
portraits.*' — A.  H,  L. 

The  traveller  without  returning  to 
Vicenza  can  proceed  from  Asolo  to 
Padua  by 

Castelfranco,  an  ancient  town  of 
3800  Inhab.,  in  the  plain,  surrounded 
by  walls  and  many  towers.  It  was  the 
birthplace  of  Giorgione,  whose  house 
still  exists.  A  Madonna  and  Child, 
with  S.  Liberale  in  armour  (said  to  be 
the  painter's  portrait),  and  St.  Francis 
below;  there  is  also  a  small  picture 
by  the  same  painter  in  the  principal 
church.  Behind  the  altar  is  a  Descent 
of  Christ  into  Limbo  by  Ponchini; 
in  the  sacristy  a  fresco  of  Justice,  by 
P.  Veronese.  The  Villa  Soranzo,  out- 
side the  town,  is  a  fine  building  by 
Sanmichele. 


Yenetian  Prov. 


Eoute  31. — Padua. 


339 


Vicenza  to  Padua. 

.   By  railway,  30  kil..=18i  Eng.  ra. 

Soon  after  leaving  the  station  the  rly. 
crosses  the  bridge  over  the  Bachiglione. 
The  country  is  well  cultivated  with 
vines,  maize,  mulberry-trees,  &c. 

15  kil.  Pojana,  Stat.  The  hne  from 
Yicenza  to  this  stat.,  and  indeed  to 
Padua,  is  over  a  dead  flat,  in  some 
places  swampy.  Before  reaching  Pajano 
the  low  hill  of  Monte  Q-aldo  may  be 
seen  on  the  rt. ;  and  beyond,  the 
Euganeans:  the  Ceresone,  and  after- 
wards the  Brentella,  which  is  carried 
into  the  BachigHone  of  Este,  are  crossed 
before  reaching 

15  kU.  Padua  Station^  which  is  at 
some  distance  from  the  centre  of  the 
town,  but  where  carriages  and  omni- 
buses will  be  found.  The  traveller  will 
find  it  more  expeditious  to  employ  a 
light  calbche,  fare  50  soldi. 

Padxta.  Inns:  La  Stella  d'Oro,  in 
the  Piazza  de'  Noli,  kept  by  Fanti, 
the  best ;  good  and  clean :  an  obliging 
landlord  and  moderate  charges ;  it  is 
in  the  centre  of  t]ie  town,  and  close 
to  the  Post  and  Diligence  Office, 
the  University,  &c. — Croce  di  Malta. 
— Aqiula  d'Oro ;  good,  and  in  an 
airy  situation,  but  remote  and  dis- 
tant from  the  rly.,  near  the  ch.  of  S. 
Antonio. 

Cafes:  the  Cafi^  Pedrocchi,  cele- 
brated all  over  Italy,  is  the  best ; 
there  is  also  a  restaurant,  and  a  fine 
assembly-room  on  the  first  floor. 
While  the  building  of  this  cafe  was  in 
progress  Pedrocchi  was  present  every 
evening,  and  paid  all  the  workmen 
ready  money,  and,  it  was  said,  al- 
ways in  old  Yenetian  gold.  He  had 
been  left  in  poor  circumstances,  and 
lived  in  a  little  old  house  upon  the 
site  of  his  present  caf^,  which,  falling 
into  decay,  he  was  compelled  to  pull 
down.  Suddenly  he  abounded  in  riches 
— as  many  stories  were  afloat  concern- 
ing hidden    treasures    and   yet  more 


awful  things  as  would  furnish  materials 
for  a  legend.  The  secret  of  his  wealth 
appears  to  have  been  that  he  kept  a 
gaming-house.  In  excavating  for  the 
foundation  of  an  ice-house  attached  to 
the  establishment  portions  of  a  Roman 
edifice  were  discovered,  and  the  marbles 
found  have  been  employed  in  the 
ornaments  and  pavement  of  the  salone. 

Booksellers.  Zambecarri,  near  the 
Tlieatre  and  University,  has  a  good 
choice  of  old  and  new  books. 

Padua  is  perhaps  the  oldest  city  in 
the  N.  of  Italy,  and  the  one  abounding 
most  in  traditions  propagated  from 
age  to  age.  The  foundation  of  Padua 
was  attributed  to  Antenor  by  the  Ro- 
mans. 

*'  Antenor  potuit,  mediis  elapsus  Achivis, 
niyricos  penetrare  sinus  atque  intima  tutns 
Regna  Libarnorum,  et  fontes  superare  Ti- 

mavi : 
Unde  per  ora  novem  vasto  cum  murmiire 

montis 
It  mare  proruptum,  et  pelago  premit  arva 

sonanti. 
Hlc  tamen  ille  urbem  Patavi,  sedesque  loca- 

vit 
Teucrorum,  et  genti  nomen  dedit,  armaque 

fixit 
Troia.    Nunc  placid&  compdstus  pace  qui* 

escit."  JEneid,  lib.  i.  243,  249. 

"  Antenor  from  the  midst  of  Grecian  hosts 
Could  pass  secure,  and  pierce  th'  Illyrian 

coasts: 
Where,  rolling  down  the  steep,  Timavusra^es, 
And  through  nine  cliannels  disembogues  his 

waves. 
At  length  he  founded  Padua's  happy  seat, 
And  gave  his  Trojans  a  secure  retreat ; 
There  fix'd  their  arms,  and  there  renew'd 

their  name, 
And  there  in  quiet  rules,  and  crown'd  with 

fame."  Dry  den's  VirgH. 

In  the  year  1274,  when  the  work- 
men were  laying  the  foundation  of  the 
Foundling  Hospital,  a  large  marble 
sarcophagus  was  discovered,  contain- 
ing a  second  of  lead,  and  a  third  of 
cypress- wood.  In  the  latter  was  a 
skeleton,  of  larger  than  the  ordi- 
nary stature,  grasping  a  sword  in 
the  bony  hand;  an  inscription  upon 
the  sword,  in  barbarous  Latin,  was 
interpreted  to  indicate  that  the  tomb 
belonged  to  Antenor.  The  discovery, 
like  that  of  the  bones  of  Livy,  excited 
the  greatest  enthusiasm,  and  the  re- 
mains of  the  founder  of  the  city  were 


i 
i 
i 

3  =  1 

I' 


Venetian  Prov.    Route  31. — Padua— Palazzo  delta  Ragione.        341 


deposited  in  tlie  cliuroh  of  San  Lorenzo. 
To  the  same  church  the  sarcophagus  was 
removed,  and  an  inscription  composed 
by  Lovato,  a  doctor  of  laws  and  a  poet, 
was  engraved  upon  the  monument, 
which  still  exists  in  excellent  pre- 
servation. When  Alberto  della  Scala 
governed  Padua  in  1334  the  sarcopha- 
gus was  opened,  and  he  requested  as 
a  gift  the  sword  of  the  Trojan  hero. 
The  church  has  been  demolished,  but 
the  sarcophagus  has  been  spared.  It 
stands  at  the  corner  of  a  street,  beyond 
the  bridge  of  St.  Lorenzo,  in  front  of 
the  palace  of  the  Belegazione  Provin- 
ciale,  beneath  a  canopy  of  brick,  and, 
whatever  may  be  thought  of  the  story, 
is  unquestionably  antique,  though 
of  what  age  it  is  difficult  to  decide. 
The  most  probable  solution  is  that 
it  belonged  to  one  of  those  Hungarian 
invaders  who  descended  into  Italy 
in  the  9th  century.  The  urn  resem- 
bles in  its  form  those  of  the  time  of 
the  Lombard  period  at  Ravenna  j  the 
canopy  over  it,  and  the  stumpy  columns 
that  support  the  urn,  are  of  the  13th 
COTity.,  when  it  wa«  discovered,  similar  to 
those  of  the  tomb  of  Petrarch  at  Arqua. 
Near  it  is  Lovato's  own  sarcophagus, 

"Padovala  Forte"  contains  45,000 
Inhab.  Long  rows  of  arches,  generally 
pointed,  support  the  houses.  Irregular 
imoccupied  ground  —  wide-stretcliing 
tracts  of  open  spaces  or  piazze  on  the 
outskirts  —  a^d  to  its  peculiar  cha- 
racter. 

The  edifice  the  most  peculiar  and 
most  national  is  the  Palazzo  della 
Municvpalitay  or  Palazzo  della  Ma- 
gioncy  built  by  Pietro  Cozzo  between 
1172  and  1219,  which  forms  one  side 
of  the  market-place:  a  vast  building, 
standing  entirely  upon  open  arches, 
surrounded  by  a  loggia.  The  E.  end 
is  covered  with  shields  and  armorial 
bearings.  To  the  Broletto  of  the  Lom- 
bard cities  it  has  no  resemblance.  A 
vast  roof,  like  that  at  Vicenza,  towers 
above  the  edifice,  rising,  perhaps,  half 
as  high  again  as  the  walls  upon  which 
it  rests.  This  roof  is  said  to  be  the 
largest,  unsupported  by  pillars,  in  the 
world*    The  present  one  is  of  ii-on, 


having  been  renewed  in  1857.  The 
hall  is  267i  feet  long,  and  89  wide,  as 
much  in  height,  but  not  quite  rectan- 
gular. 

The  liistory  of  this  hall  is  as  remark- 
able as  its  aspect.  In  the  year  1306 
there  came  to  Padua  a  renowned  archi- 
tect and  engineer,  an  Augustin  friar, 
called  Frate  Giovanni.  He  had  tra- 
velled far  and  wide,  over  Europe  and 
in  Asia,  and  he  had  brought  back 
plans  and  drawings  of  all  the  buildings 
which  he  had  seen  ;  amongst  others, 
one  of  the  roof  of  a  great  palace  in 
India.  This  design  greatly  pleased  the 
Paduans,  and  they  requested  him  to 
roof  their  hall  (which  had  previously 
formed  three  chambers)  in  like  manner ; 
and  Fra*  Oiovanrd  assented,  asking 
no  other  pay  than  the  materials  of 
the  old  roof,  which  he  was  to  take 
down.  The  Loggia,  or  corridor,  imder 
arches,  that  surrounds  it,  is  of  the 
same  period. 

The^  interior  of  this  hall  is  gloomy, 
and  tne  whole  is  closely  covered  with 
strange  mystical  paintings,  which  have 
replaced  those  by  GHotto,  and  which 
were  destroyed  by  the  successive  con- 
flagrations of  the  building,  especially 
that  of  1410;  the  authors  of  those 
frescoes  are  supposed  to  be  anony- 
mous Padovese  and  Ferrarese  painters. 
The  original  ones  by  Giotto  were  exe- 
cuted according  to  the  instructions 
of  the  great  physician,  astrologer,  and 
alchemist,  Pietro  di  Abano  (bom  1250, 
died  1316).  Pietro  di  Abano  was 
the  first  reviver  of  the  art  of  me- 
dicine in  Europe ;  and  he  travelled  to 
Greece  for  the  purpose  of  learning  the 
language  of  Hippocrates  and  Galen, 
and  of  profiting  by  the  stoi:es  which 
the  Byzantine  hbraries  yet  contained. 
He  practised  with  the  greatest  success ; 
and  his  medical  works  were  considered 
as  amongst  the  most  valuable  volumes 
of  the  therapeutic  library  of  the  middle 
ages.  He  wrote  the  *  Conciliator  diffe- 
rentiarum  Medicorxmi.'  His  bust  is 
over  one  of  the  doors  of  the  hall :  the  in- 
scription placed  beneath  it  indignantly 
repudiates  the  magic  and  sorcery 
ascribed  to  him» 


342 


Houte  31. — Padua — Palazzo  deUa  JRagione.       Sect.  IV. 


The  paintings,  forming  319  compart- 
ments, have  been  repeatedly  damaged  by 
fire  and  water,  in  1420, 1608, 1744,  and 
1762  J  and  have  been  entirely  repainted ; 
no  part  of  those  by  Giotto  remain.  They 
fall  into  several  classes.  The  constel- 
lations— sacred  subjects — apostles  and 
saints — the  winds  and  elements — alle- 
gorical figures  of  Yirtue;' — but  the 
principal  serieq  consists  of  the  months 
of  the  year,  with  then'  ruling  planets 
and  constellations;  the  employments 
of  the  month;  and  the  temper amentSy 
assigned,  according  to  astrological  rules, 
to  those  who  are  born  under  the 
different  astral  combinations.  The 
apertures,  or  windows,  are  said  to  be 
so  disposed  that  the  solar  rays  in  eacl) 
monlh  travel  along  the  representatives 
of  the  signs  and  planets  then  in  ruling 
activity.  The  following  paintings  may 
be  remarked,  either  for  their  beauty  or 
singularity: — Justice  and  Prudence; 
portrait  of  Dante,  imder  the  personi- 
fication of  Sagittarius;  Pisces,  under 
wliich  is  a  young  woman  supporting 
an  aged  person  with  great  tenderness ; 
also  a  very  beautiful  kneeling  figure; 
generally,  the  representations  of  the 
trades  and  occupations  of  human  life. 
— The  Coronation  of  the  Virgin — the 
Magdalene — and  St.  Paul  in  prayer. 

At  one  end  of  the  hall  is  the  so- 
called  monument  of  Livy,  erected  in 
1547.  Like  the  astrologer,  he  was 
bora  at  Abano.  According  to  an  im- 
memorial tradition,  the  site  of  Livy's 
house  can  be  pointed  out  in  the  Strada 
di  San  Q-iovanni ;  and  in  the  year  1363 
an  inscription  was  found  near  the 
church  of  Santa  Giustina,  purporting 
to  have  been  placed  there  by  a  certain 
Titus  Livius  Halys,  erroneously  attri- 
buted to  the  historian,  although  it  is 
distinctly  stated  on  it  that  lie  was 
a  freedman  of  Livia  Quarta.  Some 
time  afterwards,  in  1413,  a  tesselated 
pavement  was  discovered,  beneath  which 
was  found  a  leaden  coffin  containing  a 
skeleton,  which  was  immediately  sup- 
posed to  be  that  of  the  great  historian 
himself.  The  discovery  excited  the 
greatest  enthusiasm,  and  it  was  deter- 
mined to   place  the    remains  in   the 


Palazzo.     The  tranfllation  took  place 
with  as  much  pomp  as  if  Livy  had 
been    a    tutelary   saint.       The    relics 
were  divided:    the  jawbone  was   de- 
posited in  the  CanceUaria;   and  Al- 
fonso of  Arragon,  King  of  Naples,  de- 
spatched (1450)  a  special  embassy  to 
request  the  gift  of  an  armbone,  which 
was  conceded  by  tlie  Paduans,  as  ap- 
pears by  an  inscription  on  a  marble 
tablet  over  the  door.     The  inscription 
found  at  Sta.  Giustina  has  been  lei 
into  the  wall ;  and  statues  of  Minerva 
(or,  as  some  say,  Eternity)  and  Fame, 
the  Tiber  and  the  Brenta,  have  been 
added:  above  is  a  bust,  upon  which 
are  engraved  the  letters  P.  T.  L.  E., 
which,  with   somewhat   of  Oldbuck'a 
sagacity,  are  explained  to  signify  Pata- 
vini  Tito  lAvio  Erexerunt.     The  bones 
are  placed  over  one  of  the  side  doors 
leading    to  the    XJffizio  della   SanitlL 
Over  a  third  door  is  the  bas-relief  re- 
presenting the  celebrated  jurist  I*avlus, 
who  flourished  in  the  age  of  Alexander 
Severus,  and  contributed  much  to  the 
formation   of  the   codes    of  the  civil 
law.  Alberto  Padovano^  commemorated 
over  another  doorway  (died  1323),  was 
a  preacher  of  extraordinary  eminence 
in  his  day :  Sperone  Speroni  also  has  a 
statue.     It  was  erected  at  the  public 
expense  in   1594.     Hallam   considers 
Speroni' s  tragedy  of  Canace  as  a  work 
of  genius;  and  his  Dialogues,  an  humble 
imitation  of  Plato,  which  may  have  been 
valued  when  well-turned  plirases  were 
accepted  as  an  equivalent  for  meaning. 
Such  tributes  to  literary  eminence 
are  sufficiently  common,  but  the  bust 
erected,  1661,  by  the  city  to  the  me- 
mory of  iMcrezia  JDondiy  is,  perhaps, 
unique ;  it  bears  witness  to  her  virtue 
and  to  her  death,  under  circumstances 
nearly   similar  to    those  of   her  Ro- 
man namesake.      Lastly,   in  this   as- 
sembly,  is   the    bust  of   Belzoni,   by 
Rinaldi,  represented  in  a  Turkish  cos- 
tume, between  the  two  Egyj^tian  statues 
which  he  presented  to  his  native  city. 
No  circumstance  in  poor  Belzoni's  life 
pleased  him  more  than  liis  being  able 
to  present  these  trophies  to  Padua.     A 
medal  was   struck   by  the  city  as   a 


Venetian  Pro  v.    Boute  31. — Padua — Archives — Pinacoteca.        343 


a 


token  of  their  gratitude,  in  addition  to 
the  bust  thus  placed  in  its  great  hall. 

At  one  end  of  the  hall  is  the  Lcupis 
Vtiuperii  et  Cessionis  Bonorum^  of 
black  granite,  the  altar  of  insolvency, 
upon  which  debtors  cleared  themselves 
by  their  exposure.  At  the  other 
end  of  the  hall  stands  the  enormous 
wooden  model  of  a  horse,  formerly  in  the 
Palazzo  Emo,  hy  DonatellOy  upon  which 
Vasari  has  expatiated  with  much  admi- 
ration. It  was  executed  in  1466  for  a 
certain  A.  Capodalista,  to  figure  at  some 
pubHc  rejoicings,  and  was  to  have  borne 
a  statue  of  Jupiter ;  the  head  is  a  modem 
restoration.  A  meridian  line  crosses 
the  hall:  the  ray  of  the  sun  passes 
through  a  hole  in  the  centre  of  a  golden 
fiEice  on  the  roof. 

Archivio  Puhhlico.  Entrance  from 
the  Delegazione  Municipale. — In  a 
suite  of  apartments  near  the  entrance 
to  the  Palazzo  della  E.agione,  and  form- 
ing a  part  of  the  municipal  buildings, 
are  placed  the  extensive  series  of  Pa- 
duan  archives.  They  have  been  lately 
well  attended  to,  and  are  in  process  of 
being  arranged  and  catalogued,  thanks 
to  the  zeal  of  the  then  Podesta  Cav.  di 
Zigno.  In  addition  to  the  documents 
of  the  time  of  the  Carraras,  when 
Padua  had  an  independent  political 
existence,  an  immense  mass  of  diplomas 
and  charters  has  been  brought  here 
from  suppressed  monastic  establish- 
ments. Some  of  these  rolls  go  back  to 
the  9th  century  ;  a  bull,  in  particular, 
of  Pope  Eugenius  II.,  when  the  Roman 
pontiffs  signed  such  documents,  instead 
of,  as  at  a  later  period,  appending  leaden 
hullas.  There  are  several  diplomas  of 
the  German  emperors  of  the  Franconian 
line.  Two  of  Henry  lY.  (1091,  1095) 
are  remarkable,  as  showing  that  he  could 
not  sign  his  name,  and  had  recourse  to 
the  illiterate  expedient  of  a  -|-.  The 
series  of  the  statutes  of  Padua  is  very 
complete,  including  those  of  Eccelino 
(1276)  and  of  the  Carraras  (1362). 

Pinacoteca,  recently  arranged,  con- 
ains  scveml  pictures  belonging  to 
he  municipahty,  200  from  suppressed 


convents,  and  miscellaneous  collec- 
tions purchased  by  the  city.  The  Pina- 
coteca is  placed  in  a  series  of  rooms 
on  the  upper  floor  of  the  Delegazione 
Municipale,  and  contains  several  re- 
markable works  of  art,  amongst  which 
may  be  particularly  noticed — 

1*^  Room:  Palma  CHovane,  a  Sta. 
Francesca  Romana;  II  Flamingo,  a 
Holy  Family ;  An.  Caracci,  the  same 
subject ;  CarpacciOy  a  good  Landscape. 
— 2nd  Moom  :  Seh.  del  Piomho^  Christ 
bound  to  the  column ;  Cignani,  a 
Magdalen ;  II  Padovanino,  a  copy 
of  Titian's  Woman  accused  of  Adul- 
tery; Palma  Oiovane,  the  Resurrec- 
tion, and  a  copy  of  Michael  Angelo's 
Last  Judgment ;  Orhetto,  Lot  and  his 
Daughters. — Zrd  Room :  Giov.  Bellini, 
Adoration  of  the  Magi;  Squarcione, 
a  curious  Ancona,  with  Saints. — 4>th 
Room:  Paolo  Veronese,  a  Crucifixion; 
Qarofalo,  a  Holy  Family;  Campag- 
nola,  a  fresco  of  the  Decollation  of  St. 
John  the  Baptist. — hth  Room :  H  Pa- 
dovanino,  Judith ;  Romanino,  the  Last 
Supper,- and  Bathsheba;  Castelfranco, 
a  large  composition  representing  the 
Delivery  of  the  Keys  of  Padua  to 
Doge  Valier  ;  Solimena,  an  Ecce 
Homo  ;  Palma  GHovane,  a  Deposi- 
tion; Parmegianino,&llo\y  Family,  with 
the  painter's  name,  the  original  sketch 
for  P.  Veronese's  Martyrdom  of  Santa 
Giustina.  Besides  the  above  will  be 
worthy  of  notice  a  Holy  Family,  with 
St.  John,  signed  and  dated  (1516), 
by  Giov.  Bellini;  several  paintings  of 
the  early  Venetian  School,  attributed 
to  the  VivaHnis ;  Potiphar  and  Bath- 
sheba, by  II  Padovanino,  &c.  &c. 

Museo. — Attached  to  the  Pinacoteca 
has  been  formed  a  museum,  consisting 
of  objects  of  a  very  miscellaneous  na- 
ture : — ancient  and  medieDval  bronzes ; 
ivories ;  majolica  paintuigs  from  TJrbino, 
Faenza,  and  Padua — one  of  the  latter  by 
Nicolo  Pizzolo,  a  scholar  of  Squarci- 
one's,  is  remarkable.  Amongst  the 
modem  sculptm'es  is  a  Magdalen  by 
Canova.  The  Numismatic  scries  em- 
braces all  the  coins  struck  at  Padua^  an'' 


344 


BovJte  31. — Padua — Museum — Duomo, 


Sect.  IV. 


a  rich  collection  of  those  of  Venice,  as 
well  as  the  seals  of  the  Carrara  rulers. 
The  collection  of  Ancient  Deeds  and 
Autographs  is  most  interesting,  from 
the  11th  centy.  to  the  present  day- 
three  of  the  unfortunate  Doge  Marino 
Faliero  are  extreme  rarities.  Forming 
a  part  of  the  Museo  is  an  extensive 
series  of  engraTings. 

Biblioteca  Munidpale.  —  Near  the 
Museum  is  the  Municipal  Library, 
recently  formed,  chiefly  out  of  that 
collected  by  Piazza.  It  is  particularly 
rich  in  works  connected  with  Padua: 
there  are  nearly  10,000  printed  toIs., 
and  a  very  extensive  series  of  manu- 
script documents  of  great  local  interest. 

The  Palazzo  del  Capitanio,  which 
occupies  the  entire  W.  side  of  the  Piazza 
de'  Signori.  It  is  in  a  mixed  style :  the 
exterior  and  the  fine  doorway  are  by 
Falconetto  (1532)  ;  the  staircase,  attri- 
buted to  Palladio,  is  remarkably  fine. 

The  Piazza  dei  Signori^  so  called 
from  the  dwelling  of  theCarraras  having 
been  in  it,  and  on  the  W.  side  of  the 
P.  della  Ragione.  At  one  extremity  is 
the  Ch.  of  S.  Clemente,  and  at  the 
opposite  one  the  P.  del  Capitanio,  with 
its  celebrated  clock-tower.  The  Loggia 
del  Consiglio,  near  it,  now  a  military 
post,  was  erected  at  the  end  of  the  15th 
centy. ;  the  great  hall,  with  its  three 
handsome  windows,  which  formerly, 
was  the  place  of  meeting  of  the  muni- 
cipal body,  is  now  dilapidated.  The 
ancient  column  in  the  piazza  belonged 
to  a  Roman  edifice  discovered  in  mak- 
ing excavations  near  the  Ch.  of  S. 
Giobbe,  in  the  last  centy. 

The  open  spaces  on  the  N.  and  S. 
sides  of  the  Pal.  della  Ragione,  are 
called  the  Piazze  delle  Fnitte  and 
delle  Srbe,  from  the  fruit  and  vegeta- 
ble markets  held  here. 

Striking  clocks  aresaid  to  havebeen  in- 
vented at  Padua ;  and  that  which  stands 
in  the  great  battlemented  tower  in  the 
Piazza  de'  Signori  is  claimed  as  the  con- 
trivance of  Giacomo  Dondo  or  Dondi,  It 
was  erected  in  1344,  at  the  expense  of 
TJbertino  di  Carrara  ;  the  works,  how- 
ever, having  been  made  by  Maestro 
Novello  in  1428*     Besides  the  four- 


and- twenty  hours,  it  indicates  the  days 
of  the  month,  the  course  of  the  sun 
in  the  Zodiac,  and  the  phases  of  the 
moon.  Dondi  obtained  such  celebrity 
for  his  performance  that  he  acquired 
the  surname  of  Orologio.  It  passed 
to  his  descendants,  and  the  family  o£ 
"  Dondi  dell'  Orologio"  still  flourishes. 
This  clock-tower  forms  the  centre  of  the 
Pal.  del  Capitanio. 


CHUBCHES. 

The  Cathedral  or  Duomo  claims 
Michael  Angela  for  its  architect,  at 
least  of  the  choir  and  sacristy  ;  but  it 
was  two  centuries  in  progress,  not 
having  been  completed  until  1754 ; 
it  is  probable,  from  the  bad  taste  dis- 
played in  some  of  the  parts,  that,  if  he 
was  the  designer,  his  plans  were  not 
carried  out.  The  best  picture  in  the 
church  is  a  fine  copy  by  il  Padovanino 
from  TitiaUy  long  supposed  to  be  an 
original :  it  is  in  the  Tribune,  and 
represents  the  Virgin  and  ChUd.  In 
the  rt.  aisle  are  two  paintings,  by 
Francesco  Bassano:  the  Flight  into 
Egypt  and  the  Wise  Men's  Offering ; 
both  well  coloured. — Sassoferrato  :  a 
Virgin. — And  in  the  K.  transept  a  Ma- 
donna, attributed  by  many  to  Giotto, 
by  others  to  Oiusto  Padovano. — On  each 
side  of  the  door  in  the  N.  aisle  are  the 
tombs  of  Sperone  Spe^'oni  and  of  OiuUa 
de*  Contij  his  daughter.  A  modem 
bust  of  Petrarch,  who  held  a  canonry  in 
the  cathedral,  by  Sinaldi,  a  scholar  of 
Canova's,  has  been  recently  placed  here 
at  the  expense  of  Canon  Concini ;  there 
are  also  two  others,'  in  the  choir,  in 
honour  of  Benedict  XIV.  and  Cardinal 
Rezzonico.  These  last  are  curious  monu- 
ments of  priestly  vanity.  What  had  the 
pope  done  for  the  canons  to  deserve  this 
token  of  gratitude?  He  graciously 
granted  them  the  privilege  of  wearing 
their  pontifical  copes  in  the  choir.  And 
what  had  Rezzonico  done?  Why,  he 
had  asked  that  favour  for  them. 

The  Sacristy  contains  some  early 
liturgical  manuscripts,  with  miniatures 
of  the  12th  and  13th  centuries— one^ 


Venet.  PkoV.     lioute  31. — Fadtta — Duomo-^S.  Antonio. 


Uh 


an  JSvangeliariwmt  painted  by  a  certain 
Isodorufiin  1170  j  theother  an  Epistola- 
rium,  with  miniature  histories  from  the 
Old  and  New  Testaments,  by  Giovanni 
Gaibana,  in  1259 — and  some  curious 
reliquiarii  of  the  14th  and  15th;  in 
the  subterranean  ch.  is  preserved  the 
body  of  St.  Daniel,  discovered  in  1075. 

The  Baptistery  is  a  Lombard  build- 
ing of  the  13th  centy.,  belonging  to 
what  may  be  termed  the  imitative 
class  of  these  buildings,  similar  to 
those  at  Parma  and  Cremona.  The 
walls  and  vaulting  are  entirely  co- 
vered with  frescoes,  executed  at  the 
expense  of  Fina  Buzzacarina,  vdfe  of 
Francesco  di  Carrara  the  elder.  The 
frescoes  on  the  outside,  which  have 
entirely  disappeared,  were  by  Giunto 
and  Altichieri,  and  those  inside,  repre- 
senting histories  of  the  Old  and  New 
Testament,  by  Q-iovanni  and  Antonio 
of  Padua ;  the  cupola  represents  the 
Paradise,  with  numerous  angels  and 
saints  upon  it.  Fina  Carrara,  her 
husband,  with  other  members  of  the 
family,  and  Petrarch,  are  represented 
kneeling  before  the  Virgin. 

Biblioteca  Capitolare.  —  Petrarch 
mav  be  reckoned  as  one  of  its  founders. 
It  contains  upwards  of  10,000  vols., 
amongst  which  450  of  the  15th  centy., 
.  and  several  inedited  manuscripts. 
Amongst  others,  those  of  Sperone 
Sperpni,  with  several  letters  of  Tasso, 
a  MS.  of  the  14th  centy.  containing 
the  description  of  Dondi's  clock,  and 
some  splendidly  illiuninated  missals, 
and  collections  of  decretals,  also  with 
miniatures,  of  the  14th  and  15th 
cents. ;  in  the  entrance  hall  are  some 
curious  old  paintings  of  1367,  by 
~Sicolo  SemitecolOf  relative  to  the  life 
of  S.  Sebastian,  much  valued  as  a  docu- 
ment in  the  history  of  the  Venetian 
school. 

The  Palazzo  Vescovile  has  been 
modernised.  It  contains  several  fres- 
coes by  *T.  Montagnana,  a  pupil  of  Gio- 
vanni Bellini,  painted  about  1495. 
In  one  of  the  upper  rooms  the  por- 
traits of  the  Bishops  of  Padua  to  1494. 
In  the  chapel  are  the  12  Apostles,  in 
chiaro-scuro ;    the    altarpiece,    repre- 

N,  Italf/.—lSQQ, 


senting  the  Annunciation,  is  by  the 
same  artist ;  and  in  the  bishop's  private 
chapel,  or  oratory,  are  several  small 
paintings,  the  best  one  by  P.  Veronese, 
representing  the  martyrdom  of  Santa 
Giustina ;  and  an  Ancona  of  a  double 
row  of  compartments,  with  S.  Peter  in 
the  centre,  and  the  Saviour  on  the 
Cross  above,  from  the  monastery  of 
S.  Peter.  It  is  attributed  to  Sqttarcione, 

Over  the  door  of  one  of  the  rooms 
is  a  portrait  of  Petrarch,  which  was 
originally  painted  upon  the  walls  of 
the  house  in  which  he  dwelt  when  he 
resided  at  Padua  under  the  protection 
of  the  Carraras.  The  house  was  de- 
molished in  1581 ;  but  the  fresco  was 
cut  from  the  wall,  and  thus  preserved. 
This  portrait  is  reckoned  one  of  the 
most  authentic  of  the  poet,  and  is 
attributed  to  Ouariento. 

Church  of  Sanf  Antonio  or  of  II 
Santo,  "  On  the  death  of  S.  Antonio 
in  the  year  1231  the  citizens  of  Padua 
decreed  that  a  magnificent  temple 
should  be  erected  in  honour  of  St. 
Anthony,  their  patron  saint.  To  ac- 
complish this  object,  they  sent  for 
Nicolo  da  Pisa,  and  intrusted  to  him 
the  construction  of  the  new  church, 
and  he  produced  one  of  the  most 
remarkable  buildings  in  Italy.  The 
fashion  of  the  day  compelled  him  to 
adopt  the  Pointed  style,  but  with 
this  he  combined  some  of  the  Byzan- 
tine features  of  St.  Mark's  at  Venice. 
St.  Anthony's  is  crowned  with  no  less 
than  8  cupolas,  which  give  it  an  oriental 
character.  It  is  in  the  form  of  a  Latin 
cross,  280  ft.  in  length,  138  ft.  in 
breadth  to  the  extremity  of  the  tran- 
septs. It  was  completed  in  1307,  with 
the  exception  of  the  cupola  over  the 
choir,  which  was  not  added  tiU  1424. 
If  the  external  features  of  this  church 
are  meagre,  if  the  three  great  portals 
are  bald  when  compared  with  the  con- 
temporary portals  of  the  North,  it  must 
be  remembered  that  Nicholas  of  Pisa 
was  compelled,  by  the  fashion  of  the 
day,  to  adopt  a  style  wliich  he  did  not 
like,  and  which,  it  must  be  confessed, 
he  did  not  understand." — G.  Knight. 
The  W.  front  is  divided  into  4  pointed 


346 


Eoute  31. — Padua — S.  Antonio, 


Sect.  IV. 


arches  of  unequal  width,  in  the  centre 
of  which  is  a  niche  containing  a  statue 
of  S.  Antonio  of  the  14th  centy.  Over 
this  rises  a  portico  of  pointed  arches, 
with  a  balustrade,  surmounted  by  a 
handsome  Lombard  turret ;  the  fresco 
of  SS.  Antonio  and  Bernardino,  in  the 
lunette  over  the  principal  entrance, 
was  painted,  as  stated  in  the  inscrip- 
tion below,  by  A.  Mantegnay  in  1452 ; 
the  two  octagonal  bell-towers  beyond 
the  transepts,  on  ranges  of  pointed 
niches  and  arches,  are  very  beautiful. 

The  church  of  S.  Antonio  is  remark- 
able for  the  splendour  and  beauty  of  its 
internal  decorations.  Occupying  the  N. 
or  l.-hand  transept,  stands  the  chapel 
of  the  Saint,  "i^  Santo" — (for  thus  is 
Anthony  honoured  at  Padua,  where  he 
died,  having  been  bom  at  Lisbon).  It 
is  illuminated  day  and  night  by  the 
golden  lamps,  and  silver  candlesticks, 
and  candelabras  borne  by  angels,  which 
bum  before  the  shrine.  The  chapel 
was  begun  in  1500  by  Giovanni  Mi- 
nellOy  and  Antonio  his  son ;  continued 
by  SansovinOf  and  completed  by 
Falconetto  in  1553.  The  two  richly 
worked  pilasters  are  by  JPironi  and 
Matteo  Aglio.  A  large  and  singular 
series  of  bas-reliefs  relative  to  histories 
of  the  Saint,  by  various  artists,  sur- 
round the  walls.  The  best  are  :  Ist  on 
rt.  by  P.  Lomhardo ;  3rd  and  4th  by 
Tallio  Lomhardo ;  the  6th,  S.  Antonio 
resuscitating  a  dead  girl,  by  Sansovino. 
In  the  centre  is  the  shrine,  as  splendid 
as  gold  and  marble  can  make  it :  the 
bronze  statues  over  the  altar  of  St. 
Anthony,  St.  Bonaventura,  and  St. 
Louis  are  by  Tiziano  Aspetti.  The  two 
fine  marble  sculptures  on  the  sides  of 
the  steps  leading  to  the  altar  are 
the  work  of  Orazio  Marinali^  1450, 
and  Filippo  Parodi.  They  support 
two  of  the  candelabras.  Beyond  the 
chapel  of  St.  Antonio  is  the  curious 
Gothic  chapel  of  the  Black  Virgin,  the 
Madonna  Mora,  from  the  brown-com- 
plexioned  picture  over  the  altar ;  this 
ch.  is  a  portion  of  the  church  of  Santa 
Maria  Maggiore,  built  in  1110,  and 
pulled  down  in  great  part  to  make 
room   for  the  present  edifice.     In  it 


is  an  interesting  sarcophagus  of  one 
of  the  Obizzo  family.  The  sepulchral 
urn  near  it,  turned  towards  the 
aisle,  belongs  to  Baphael  Fulgoso, 
an  eminent  jurisconsult  of  the  14th 
centy.  Opening  out  of  this  chapel  is 
another  of  the  Beato  Luca  Belludi, 
companion  of  S.  Antonio,  covered  with 
frescoes  relative  to  St.  PhiHp  and  St. 
James,  and  attributed  to  Giunio  Fado' 
vano  :  the  Apparition  of  S.  Antonio  to 
the  Beato,  to  announce  the  lib^ation 
of  Padua  from  Eccelino,  is  historically 
interesting :  they  have  been  sadly  in- 
jured by  restoration  in  the  last  centy. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  ch.  is 
the  chapel  of  8.  Felix  (5th  on  rt.). 
It  wa«  originally  dedicated  to  St. 
James,  and  erected  in  1376,  but  subse- 
quently to  St.  Felix,  when  liis  remains 
were  deposited  here  in  1504.  It  is  se- 
parated from  the  body  of  the  ch.  by  a 
range  of  Gothic  arches  in  red  Veronese 
marble,  above  which  nses  a  species  of 
entablature  of  coloured  marbles  dis- 
posed In  fish-scales  form.  The  wall,  lu- 
nettes above,  and  vaulting,  are  covered 
with  excellent  early  frescoes,  by  Jcuiopo 
Avanzi  a.nd  Altichieri  daZevio  (1376) — 
the  worse,  however,  for  the  injuries  they 
received  in  clearing  off  the  whitewash 
with  which  they  had  been  covered, 
and  for  the  restorations.  The  sub- 
jects are  taken  partly  from  the  legen- 
dary histoiy  of  St.  James,  and  partly 
from  the  Gospels :  they  are  striking 
even  in  their  present  stat«.  The  first 
seven  frescoes  are  considered  to  be 
by  Altichieri,  They  ai*e  fall  of 
life  and  expression.  The  wall  behind 
the  altar  is  divided  into  five  spaces  by 
columns  and  pointed  arches,  correspond- 
ing to  those  opposite  which  separate  the 
chapel  from  the  church.  In  the  centre 
one  the  subject  is  the  Crucifixion.  To 
the  rt.  of  this  the  soldiers  are  casting  lots 
for  the  garments  of  Christ.  Tlie  skill 
displayed  in  this  composition  seems 
almost  in  advance  of  the  time  (about 
1376)  of  the  painter.  To  the  1.  of 
the  Crucifixion  is  the  crowd  following 
Jesus  from  the  city  :  one  gi'oup  is  beau- 
tiful ;  it  represents  a  woman  supporting 
the  fainting  figiu-c  of  the  Virgin  Mother, 


Venet.  Prov. 


Eoute  31. — Padua — S.  Antonio. 


347 


followed  by  another  who  is  leading 
along  her  own  infant  son.  Farther  on, 
to  the  rt.  of  the  Crucifixion,  is  the 
tomb  of  Bartolomea  Scrovegna,  wife 
of  Marsilio  Carrara,  the  second  lord  of 
Padua;  the  space  above  it  is  filled 
with  the  picture  of  the  Resurrection. 
Two  tombs  on  the  opposite  side  con- 
tain the  remains  of  the  founder  of  the 
chapel,  Bonifazio  de'  Lupi,  Marquis  of 
Soragna,  a  general  in  the  service  of  the 
Carraras :  the  picture  over  it  represents 
the  Deposition  from  the  Cross,  and 
members  of  the  Bossi  family,  contem- 
poraneous lords  of  Parma.  These  five 
paintings  by  Avanzi  and  Altiohieri  fiU 
the  lower  part  of  the  side  of  the 
chapel  opposite  the  entrances ;  they 
are  each  under  a  pointed  arch.  Over 
them  the  space  is  divided  into  three 
compartments,  each  also  canopied  by 
a  pointed  arch,  and  filled  with  a 
painting.  The  subject  of  that  on  the 
L  of  the  spectator  is  the  Denial  of  St. 
Peter ;  of  that  in  the  centre  the  via 
dolorosa,  or  Christ  led  to  be  crucified ; 
and  of  that  on  the  rt.  the  Entomb- 
ment. In  the  spandrils  to  the  extreme 
rt.  and  1.  of  the  five  lower  arches  the 
Annunciation  is  painted.  The  angel 
Gabriel  occupies  the  spandril  to  the 
extreme  1.,  and  the  Virgin  that  to  the 
extreme  rt.  The  head  of  the  Virgin  is 
very  beautiful.  A  long  narrow  window 
is  in  the  end  of  the  chapel  ^to  the  rt. 
of  the  entrance.  One  of  the  compart- 
ments on  that  side  contains  the  picture 
of  the  Virgin  and  Child,  engraved  by 
D' Agincourt ;  the  others  are  fiUed  up 
with  scenes  from  the  lives  of  St.  Chris- 
topher and  other  saints,  now  much 
effaced.  The  opposite  end  is  divided 
into  irregular  compartments,  and 
painted  by  the  before-mentioned  art- 
ists with  subjects  from  the  Scriptures 
and  from  legends.  Above  the  altar  are 
5  statues  of  the  13th  centy. ;  that  of 
St.  Felix,  upon  the  altar,  is  by  Minello 
(1604).  Over  the  stalls  wliich  sur- 
round the  chapel  are  good  half- figures  of 
saints,  but  much  injured  by  restoration. 
The  Presbytery  and  CJioi/r  are  divided 
from  the  rest  of  the  church  by  red  mar- 
ble balustrades  and  bronze  doors.  The 
statues  here  of  the  saints,  and  of  Faith, 


Temperance,  Chai'ity,  and  Force,  are 
by  Tiziano  Aspetti.  Donatello  con- 
tributed the  bronze  reUefs  which  decorate 
the  high  altar,  and  the  fine  group  of 
the  Madonna  and  saints  over  it.  The , 
8  bas-reliefis  of  subjects  from  the  Old 
Testament,  and  the  symbols  of  the 
Evangelists,  under  the  Music  Q-allery. 
were  cast  by  Velluti,  his  pupil,  in  1488, 
By  Donatello,  also,  are  the  great  bronze 
crucifix,  and  a  bas-relief  in  gilt  terra- 
cotta of  the  Deposition  over  the  door 
leading  to  the  chapel  of  the  relics  be- 
hind it. 

Cicognara  points  out  as  the  finest 
work  of  art  in  this  most  sumptuous 
sanctuary  the  great  candelahrum  of 
bronze,  standing  on  the  1.  of  the  high 
altar,  executed  by  Andrea  Siccio,  the  re- 
sult of  ten  years'  labour.  It  is  a  species 
of  cinque-cento  adaptation  of  the  antique 
form.  The  human  figures  possess  ex- 
quisite grace  and  simpUcity.  Four 
emblematical  figures  upon  the  pedes- 
tal have  occasioned  much  perplexity 
to  the  commentators.  They  have  been 
explained  as  representing  astrology, 
music,  history,  and  cosmography.  But 
these  interpretations  are  more  inge- 
nious than  satisfactory.  In  the  presby- 
tery are  2  fine  bronze  bas-reUefs  by  the 
same  master  :  David  and  Groliath ;  and 
David  dancing  before  the  Ark.  The 
objects  most  deserving  of  notice  in  the 
other  chapels  are — in  that  of  the  Holy 
Sacrament  (3rd  on  rt.),  the  bronze  bas- 
reliefs  on  the  altar,  by  Donatello ;  and 
in  the  sacristy  the  presses,  with  their 
fine  inlaid  or  intarsia  work,  executed 
in  the  15th  centy.  by  the  two  Canozzis. 

The  sepulchral  monuments,  which 
are  numerous,  are  many  of  them  fine. 
The  tombs  of  Gattamelata  and  of  his 
son  are  in  the  chapel  of  the  Sacrament 
(3rd  on  the  rt.).  The  monument  to 
Alessandro  Contarini,  upon  the  2nd 
pier  on  1.,  erected  in  1555,  at  the  ex- 
pense of  the  republic,  is  from  the  de- 
sign of  Sawmichelii  the  sculptiu^s  being 
by  A.  Vittoria  and  Danese  Catta/neo, 
Sanmicheli  also  designed  themommient 
opposite  to  this,  on  the  2nd  pier  on 
the  rt.,  to  Card.  JBemho,  erected  by 
Card.  Quirini ;  the  bust  is  by  Cattaneo^ 
and  the  inscription  bv  Paolo  Oiovio^ 

B  2 


348 


Eoute  31. — Padua — Churches, 


Sect.  IV. 


Several  fresco  paintings  still  exist  on 
the  pilasters  of  the  nave ;  those  of  the 
Crucifixion,  with  SS.  Sebastian  and 
Q-regory,  and  numerous  prophets  (on 
the  5th  on  the  rt.),  hjJ,  Montagnana, 
and  of  the  Madonna  (on  the  2nd  on 
the  1.),  attributed  to  Stefano  di  Fer- 
rara  or  Filippo  lAppi,  are  the  most 
worthy  of  notice. 

In  the  adjoining  handsome  cloisters, 
and  in  the  passage  leading  to  them 
from  the  ch.,  are  several  sepulchral 
monuments;  that  of  Manno  Donati 
(1370)  is  remarkable  for  its  inscrip- 
tion by  Petrarch  ;  of  Luigi  Visconti 
(1553),  by  Sanmicheli.  Many  monu- 
ments have  been  brought  here  fi^m 
desecrated  churches,  one  of  wliich,  be- 
tween the  2  cloisters,  is  a  good  Gotliic 
tomb  of  1390;  out  of  these  cloisters 
opens  the  Ubrary  of  II  Santo,  contain- 
ing nearly  15,000  vols.  In  one  of  the 
rooms  of  the  convent  is  a  good  Holy 
Family  by  Qarofalo.  In  a  hall  open- 
ing out  of  the  sacristy  are  some  relics 
of  the  paintings  relative  to  SS.  Francis 
and  Antony,  by  CHotto. 

In  front  of  the  church  is  an  irregular 
•and  picturesque  piazza,  partly  sur- 
rounded by  the  conventual  bufidings. 
In  a  corne"!r  of  it,  near  the  entrance  to 
the  cloisters,  is  the  sepulchre  of  Ro- 
lando Fiazzola,  under  a  Gl-othic  ca- 
no^j,  one  of  the  stanchest  defenders 
of  his  coimtry's  liberties  against  the 
Emperor  Henry  VII.  In  the  centre 
stands  the  equestrian  statue  of  "  Ghatta 
Melata,"  whose  real  name  was  Erasmo 
da  Narni,  by  DonatellOy  a  production 
full  of  vigour.  It  is  the  only  equestrian 
statue  he  ever  executed,  and  bears  his 
name,  "  Opus  Donatelli  Flor."  Open- 
ing out  of  the  piazza  is 

The  Scuola  del  Santo,  now  re-occu- 
pied for  conventual  purposes :  it  con- 
tains some  frescoes  by  Titian  and  Ca^n- 
pagnola,  representing  the  miracles  as- 
cribed to  St.  Anthony. 

Four  are  bv  Titian.  The  first,  a 
miracle  of  St.  Antonio,  restoring  to  life 
a  woman  killed  by  her  husband  in  a  fit 
of  jealousy.  The  female  heads  are  very 
beautiful.  This  fresco  has  sufiered  much 
of  late  years.  The  second,  over  the  door 
of  the  sacristy,  the  saint  miraculously 


uniting  a  boy's  foot,  which  had  beeii 
cut  off  by  accident.  The  third,  the  re- 
storing to  life  of  a  boy  who  had  fallen 
into  a  boiling  caldron.  The  fourth, 
St.  Antonio  causing  an  infant  to  speak, 
in  order  to  bear  witness  to  his  mother's 
innocence,  in  answer  to  an  accusaticm 
of  infideUty  by  her  husband. 

Close  to  Sanf  Antonio  is  the  small 
church  of  San  CHorffio,  erected  as  the 
sepulchral  chapel  of  his  family  by 
Raimondino  di  Soragna  in  1377 ;  it 
contains  some  fine  frescoes  by  Avami. 
Altichieri  helped  hiTn  here  also;  but 
the  greater  part  are,  without  doubt, 
the  work  of  Avanzi,  whose  style  of  con- 
ception is  seen  to  much  more  advan- 
tage here  than  in  the  frescoes  in  the 
chapel  of  S.  Felix.  The  subjects  are 
from  the  New  Testament,  and  hisioriee 
of  SS.  George,  Catherine,  and  Lucia : 
the  large  painting  of  the  Crucifixion 
behind  the  altar,  and  over  it  the  Crown- 
ing of  the  Virgin,  are  very  fine;  a 
votive  painting  represents  several  mem- 
bers of  the  Lupa  family  ;  the  now  bare 
sarcophagus  was  formerly  surroimded 
by  10  gilt  statues  of  members  of  the 
Soragna  family,  which  were  destroyed 
during  the  occupation  by  the  French 
soldiery  at  the  end  of  the  last  centy. : 
their  portraits  are  seen  in  one  of  the 
paintings,  kneeling  before  the  Virgin,  to 
whom  they  are  presented  by  S.  George 
then-  patron. 

Ch.  of  Santa  Oiustina  is  supposed 
to  have  been  erected  on  the  site  of  a 
Temple  of  Concord.  It  was  repeatedly 
built,  and  as  frequently  ruined.  The 
edifice  raised  after  the  destruction  of 
the  city  by  Attila  was  tin-own  down 
by  an  earthquake  in  1117.  In  the  13th 
century  it  was  rebuilt.  Two  griffons 
standing  at  the  top  of  the  flight  of 
steps  in  front  of  the  present  structure, 
are  vestiges  of  the  earUer  church. 
The  present  edifice  was  begun  in  1502, 
by  Padre  Gfirolamo  da  Brescia^  and 
completed  1532-1549,  by  Andrea  Mo- 
rone.  The  fii^ade  is  rough  and  un- 
finished ;  but  the  general  style  of  the 
interior  is  good,  from  its  proportions, 
its  great  expanse,  and  its  many  piers 
and  lofty  cupolas.  The  disposition  of 
1  the  aisles  is  rather  that  of  a  series  of 


Venet.  Prov. 


Itoitte  31. — Padua — Churches. 


349 


vaulted  recesses  opening  into  the  nave, 
and  nearly  as  high  as  that  is,  and  com- 
municating with  one  another  by  lower 
arched  openings,  than  a  continued 
aisle. 

The  Martyrdom  of  Sta.  Giustina  at 
the  end  of  the  choir  and  behind  the 
high  altar,  by  Paolo  Veronese,  is  the 
best  picture  in  the  church.  The  other 
paintings  are: — Car  lino  and  Gabriele 
Ca>gliari  in  Ist  chapel  on  rt. :  the  Con- 
Tersion  of  St.  Paul. — C.  Rodolfi:  St. 
Benedict  instituting  his  Order. — Li- 
heri:  St.  Grertriide  supported  by  Angels, 
in  2nd  on  rt. — lAica  Giordano :  The 
death  of  Sta.  Scolastica,  in  4th  on 
I't. — Palma  Giovane :  St.  Benedict 
with  St.  Placidio  and  St.  Mauro, 
in  5th  on  rt. ;  and  near  the  same 
chapel,  G.  Maganza,  Totila  King 
of  the  Groths  faEing  before  St.  Be- 
nedict. The  chapel  on  rt.  of  the 
choir  contains  a  beautiful  group  by 
Parodi,  representing  a  dead  Christ, 
with  the  Virgin,  Mary  Magdalene,  and 
St.  John.  The  fine  sculptured  wood- 
work of  the  choir  was  executed  from 
designs  of  ^.  Campagnola  in  1556 ;  the 
staUs  in  the  Coro  Vecchio,  the  only 
portion  of  the  older  ch.  that  was  pre- 
served, date  from  a  century  earlier; 
they  are  by  two  artists  of  Parma  and 
Piacenza.  The  painting  over  the  altar 
in  this  choir,  of  the  Virgin  with  4 
Saints,  is  a  fine  work  of  Momamno*8 : 
behind  the  altar  in  the  1.  transept  is  a 
sepulchral  urn  erected  by  G-ualportino 
Mussato  in  1316,  in  which  are  preserved 
the  pretended  remains  of  St.  Luke.  A 
smaU  chapel  opening  out  of  the  rt. 
bransept  contains  a  miraculous  image 
of  the  Virgin,  supposed  to  have  been 
brought  from  Constantinople  by  St. 
Urius,  where  it  escaped  the  names 
raised  to  destroy  it  by  the  Iconoclast 
Emp.  Constantinus  in  the  8th  cen- 
tury. Beneath  the  chapel  of  the  Virgin 
are  two  ancient  cells  called  the  Prison 
of  St.  Giustina. 

There  is  a  fine  cloister  annexed  to 
this  church.  In  a  cortile  adjoining  is 
a  piece  of  sculpture  of  the  11th  centy., 
one  of  the  earliest  specimens  of  medi- 
»val  allegory.   It  represents  Mercy  and 


Justice.  The  large  cloister  is  a  part  of 
the  older  monastery.  It  contains  the 
few  remains  of  a  curious  series  of  paint- 
ings of  the  life  of  St.  Benedict,  exe- 
cuted between  1489  and  1494,  by  Ber- 
nardo Parentino,  Campagnola,  and 
Girolamo  Padovano.  l5ie  Prench 
converted  this  monastery  into  a  bar- 
rack, which  it  still  is ;  some  of  the 
paintings  were  whitewashed  over,  others 
have  been  spoiled  by  the  soldiery. 

The  Prato  della  Valle,  or  Piazza  delle 
Statue.  The  Church  of  Sta.  Giustina 
stands  at  the  extremity  of  a  very  large, 
irregular  open  space,  the  centre  of 
which  is  occupied  by  the  Praio  delta 
Valle,  an  oval  surrounded  with  sta- 
tues, and  by  a  small  canal,  suppHed 
with  water  from  the  Bacchiglione.  It 
was  intended  to  limit  these  memo- 
rials to  the  great  men  of  Padua ;  but 
as  even  local  fame  could  not  sup- 
ply a  sufficient  niunber  of  subjects, 
they  have  been  forced  to  enlist  some 
celebrities  of  other  countries — Ante- 
nor,  Pietro  di  Abano,  Petrarch,  Tasso, 
Galileo  ;  78  in  all  j  that  of  the 
Marquis  Giovanni  Poleni,  a  corre- 
spondent of  Sir  I.  Newton,  is  one  of 
the  early  works  (1 789)  of  Canova.  Gus- 
tavus  of  Sweden,  the  "Lion  of  the 
North,"  has  a  ftdl  right  to  his  station 
here,  for  in  1609  he  studied  at  Padua, 
and  attended  the  lectures  of  Galileo ; 
and  in  consequence  of  this,  when  his 
imfortunate  namesake  visited  Padua  in 
1783,  he  requested  permission  to  erect 
this  statue  of  his  great  ancestor.  A 
statue  of  Dante  has  been  added  to  the 
series  on  the  occasion  of  the  sexcente- 
nary anniversary  of  the  poet's  birth, 
May,  1865. 

The  Arena^  the  form  of  which,  and 
its  name,  sufficiently  indicate  that  it 
was  a  B>oman  amphitheatre.  No  traces 
of  seats  can  be  found ;  they  may  have 
been  constructed  of  wood,  as  at  Pola. 
Here  and  thei*e  the  Eoman  masonry 
can  be  distinguished ;  but,  in  the  middle 
ages,  the  B<oman  circuit  was,  like  the 
amphitheatres  of  Nimes  and  Aries,  oon» 
verted  into  a  place  of  defence  by  the 
family  of  Dalesmanini,  who  crowned  it 
with  battlements.    It  afterwards  passe'" 


350 


EoiUe  31. — Padua — Giotto* s  Chapel. 


Sect.  IV. 


to  the  Scrovegno  family,  in  the  person 
of  Enrico  Scrovegno,  the  son  of  Kegi- 
naldo,  consigned  by  Dante  to  the  In- 
ferno fop  his  usury  and  afvarice. 

Enrico,  about  1303,  built  within  its 
precinct  the  chapel  of  the  Annunziata, 
commonly  called  Santa  Maria  dell* 
Arena;  but,  whether  as  a  domestic 
chapel,  or  for  the  use  of  the  order 
of  the  Cayallieri  di  Santa  Maria,  is 
uncertain.  This  order  of  religious 
chivalry  was  instituted,  not  for  the 
defence  of  the  faith  in  general,  but 
for  the  worship  of  the  Virgin  in 
particular.  They  obtained  large  pos- 
sessions, and  thereupon  abandoned 
themselves  to  worldly  luxury,  whence 
they  were  called  Frati  Godenti;  but 
their  career  of  vice  and  profligacy  was 
cut  short  by  papal  authority ;  they 
were  suppressed,  and  their  property 
made  over  to  other  religious  orders. 

There  is  not,  however,  the  slightest 
evidence  that  the  chapel  was  ever  ap- 
propriated to  this  order,  or  that  the 
founder  was  a  member  of  it.  The  in- 
scription beneath  his  very  curious 
statue  in  the  sacristy, — "  Propria  figura 
Domini  Henrici  Scrovegni,  mihtis  de 
r Arena," — and  probably  put  up  in  his 
lifetime,  only  shows  that  he  was  a 
knight;  and  his  dress  is  merely  the 
ordinary  **  abito  civile "  of  -the  time. 
We  must,  therefore,  adopt  the  suppo- 
sition, that  the  chapel  was  erected  for 
domestic  worship.  At  this  period  (1306) 
GiottOf  then  young,  was  working  at 
Padua,  and  Scrovegno  employed  him 
not  only  to  build,  but  to  decorate  the 
edifice.  The  Chapel  consists  of  a  single 
aisle  with  a  tribune  at  its  extremity  in 
a  simple  Gothic  style.  The  unity  of  de- 
sign apparent  in  the  chapel  and  in  the 
paintings  no  doubt  resulted  from  both 
being  designed  by  the  same  mind ;  and 
what  adds  to  their  interest  is,  that 
Dante  lodged  with  Giotto  when  the 
works  were  in  progress.  Of  all  the 
existing  productions  of  Giotto,  none  are 
so  perfect  and  genuine,  or  so  truly 
exempHfy  the  character  and  beauties 
of  his  style.  The  subjects  are  taken 
partly  from  the  New  Testament,  and 
partly  from  the  Apociyphal  Gospels, 


Standing  as  the  chapel  does  at  the 
end  of  a  green  court-yard,  backed  by 
gardens  growing  vegetable  stuff,  with- 
out a  single  trace  of  the  monastic  build- 
ings which  formerly  were  attached  to 
it,  and  which  with  it  were,  till  late  in 
the  last  centy.,  hermetically  sealed  from 
public  gaze  and  curiosity,  every  asso- 
ciation which  might  raise  an  emotion 
in  the  mind  is  removed,  save  that 
which  is  to  be  derived  from  the  contem- 
plation of  its  internal  mural  decora- 
tion. But  let  those  who  have  so  fiir 
cultivated  a  love  and  knowledge  of  art 
as  to  appreciate  its  high  capabilities, 
most  carefiilly  .study  these  frescoes  of 
Giotto.  They  will  there  find  Sacred 
History  illustrated  with  a  dignified  as 
well  as  touching  simpUcity,  eminently 
befitting  the  Divine  theme.  No  artist 
of  any  period  has  been  more  successful 
than  Giotto  in  telling  his  story  in  a 
striking  and  intelligible  manner.  Add 
to  this  indispensable  ingredient  in  the 
composition  of  a  great  historical  painter 
Giotto's  exquisite  feeling  for  graceful 
beauty  and  deeply  pathetic  expression, 
and  you  have  the  chief  quahfications  of 
works  which,  without  using  the  lan- 
guage of  middle-age  mania,  may  be 
safely  pronounced  as  possessing  the 
very  highest  interest.  Second  in  con- 
sideration, but  equally  remarkable,  is 
Giotto's  skill  in  ornamental  design ;  in 
this  light,  the  chapel  may  be  considered 
as  a  perfect  model  of  taste.  The  beauty 
of  the  ornaments,  particularly  those 
which  divide  the  walls  into  panels  to 
receive  the  various  subjects,  and  the 
judgment  which  has  kept  everything 
not  purely  ornamental  work  from  the 
ceiling,  are  some  points  of  excellence, 
which  it  is  to  be  regretted  have  not 
been,  and  are  not,  more  frequently 
observed  and  imitated. 

On  the  wall  over  the  entrance  is  The 
Last  Judgment.  This  is  much  injured  : 
some  of  the  groups  of  the  blessed  have 
great  beauty.  The  vices  of  the  clergy  are 
brought  forward  with  pecuUar  promi- 
nence. In  the  centre,  and  not  connected 
at  all  with  the  rest  of  the  composition, 
Scrovegno  is  represented,  offering  his 
chapel,  which  is  accepted  by  3  angels; 


Venet.  Pro7.         Route  31. — Padua—  Giotto's  Chapel, 


351 


The  general  series  is  distributed  into 
3  ranges,  of  which  the  uppermost,  on  the 
rt.  hand,  contains  scenes  from  the  Life 
of  the  Virgin,  principally  from  the  Apo- 
cryphal Gospel  attributed  to  St.  James 
the  Less.  Commencing  on  the  S.wall  and 
nearest  the  altar, — 1,  Joachim  driven 
from  the  Temple  by  the  Priests,  be- 
cause he  had  not  begotten  any  issue 
in  Israel.  2,  Joachim  returns  to  his 
sheepfolds,  and  prays  during  40  days 
and  40  nights.  3,  The  Angel  Gabriel 
appears  to  Anna,  and  reveals  that 
the  prayers  of  her  husband  have 
been  heard.  4,  Sacrifice  of  Joachim. 
5,  Joacliim's  Vision.  6,  The  meet- 
ing of  Joachim  and  Anna  at  the  gate 
of  the  Temple.  "And  Joaehim  went 
down  with  the  shepherds ;  and  Anna 
stood  by  the  gate,  and  saw  Joachim 
coming  with  the  shepherds ;  and  she 
ran,  and,  faUing  on  his  neck,  said,  '  Now 
I  know  that  the  Lord  hath  blessed 
me,' " — a  most  graceful  composition. — 
On  the  wall  opposite.  7,  The  Birth 
of  the  Virgin.  8,  The  Presentation 
of  the  Virgin  in  the  Temple.  9,  The 
Priests  having  declared  that  the  mar- 
riageable men  of  the  House  of  David 
should  bring  their  rods  to  the  Temple, 
and  that  whosesoever  rod  should  bud 
was  to  become  the  husband  of  Mary, 
they  come,  each  man  bringing  his  rod. 
10,  The  Watching  of  the  Rods.  11,  The 
Marriage  of  Joseph  and  Mary :  the  Vir- 
gin and  the  other  female  figures  are 
graceftd.  12,  The  Procession  after  the 
Marriage.  This,  perhaps  the  most 
beautifiil  painting  in  the  series,  is  the  one 
which  has  most  suffered  by  damp.  13, 
The  Annunciation  over  the  chancel 
arch,  in  two  divisions  :  here  the  grace 
which  Giotto  imparts  to  his  female 
figures  is  peculiarly  discernible.  This 
compartment  is  under  14,  and  forms 
the  connecting  link  between  the  Life  of 
the  Virgin  and  that  of  our  Lord,  wliich 
forms  a  second  series. 

Above,  or  2nd  row  on  rt. — 1,  The 
Nativity,  injured  ;  but  the  colouring 
yet  in  parts  remarkably  vigorous.  2, 
The  Wise  Men's  Offering.  3,  The 
Presentation  of  Jesus  in  the  Temple, 
4,  The  Flight  into  J2gypt.     5,  The 


Massacre  of  the  Innocents.  2nd  row 
on  1., — 6,  Our  Lord  disputing  amongst 
the  Doctors ;  much  injured,  but  some 
fine  heads  can  yet  be  made  out.  7,  The 
Baptism  in  the  Jordan.  8,  The  Mar- 
riage in  Cana  of  Galilee.  9,  The  Rais- 
ing of  Lazarus  :  a  magnificent  compo- 
sition ;  awe  approaching  to  terror  in 
the  bystanders,  death  yet  struggling 
with  life  in  the  resuscitated  corpse. 
10,  The  Entry  into  Jerusalem :  groups 
full  of  animation  and  spirit.  11, 
Christ  driving  the  Mon^-changers  out 
of  the  Temple.  On  the  1.  of  the  altar 
is  the  hiring  of  Judas,  with  a  demon 
behind  the  traitor. 

Below,  or  lower  range  on  1. — the 
third  series  begins  with,  12,  The  Last 
Supper  :  much  ornament,  very  mi- 
nutely finished,  is  introduced  into 
the  architecture  j  each  apostle  has  a 
marked  and  peculiar  dress,  either  in 
colour  or  fashion,  which  is  preserved  in 
all  the  other  paintings  in  which  they 
are  introduced.  13,  Christ  washing 
the  Feet  of  the  Apostles,  a  very  beau- 
tiful composition.  14,  Jesus  betrayed 
by  Judas.  15,  Jesus  before  Caiaphas. 
16,  Jesus  scourged  and  crowned  with 
Thorns.  17,  Jesus  bearing  the  Cross  : 
a  full  composition  with  some  beautiful 
groups,  particularly  Mary  and  her  com- 
panions pushed  back  by  the  Jews.  18, 
The  Crucifixion :  the  thieves  are  omit- 
ted. 19,  The  Deposition  from  the  Cross. 
In  expression  this  is  considered  the 
finest  of  all  the  existing  works  of  Giotto, 
here  or  elsewhere :  the  deep  and  tender 
affliction  of  the  Virgin,  the  impassioned 
eagerness  of  St.  John,  and  the  steady 
composure  of  Nicodemus  and  Joseph  of 
Arimathea,  are  aU  in  accordance  with 
their  characters.  20,  The  Noli  me  tan- 
gere  and  E-esmrection :  the  figure  of 
St.  Mary  Magdalene  is  an  admirable 
personification  of  devotion.  21,  The 
Ascension :  the  Virgin  is  the  most  pro- 
minent figure.  22,  The  Descent  of  the 
I  Holy  Ghost  upon  the  Apostles :  singu- 
I  lar  in  its  arrangement. 

The  lowest  range  of  paintings  con- 
sists of  allegorical  or  symboUcal  figiires 
of  the  Virtues  and  Vices  intermixed 
into  archit^ctiiral  compartments,  j)re. 


352 


Eauie  31. — Padua — Giotto* s  Chapel, 


Sect.  IV. 


senting  imitations  of  marble,  panel- 
ling, &c.,  with  borders,  exactly  like 
those  executed  in  mosaic  upon  the 
tomb  of  Edward  the  Confessor  in 
Westminster  Abbey.  This  species  of 
decoration  seems  to  have  been  a  favour- 
ite amongst  the  Italian  artists  of  the 
time  of  Giotto,  as  it  is  found  in  the 
papal  chapel  of  Avignon,  painted  in 
liis  style,  or  by  liis  school.  Opposite 
to  each  virtue  is  the  antagonistic  vice; 
the  figures  are  tinted  in  chiar'-oscuro. 
In  many  the  allegoiy  is  very  intelli- 
gible ;  in  others  obscure.  The  Virtues  are 
turned  towards  the  Paradise,  the  Vices 
in  the  direction  of  the  Inferno  or 
Last  Judgment.  Commencing  on  the 
rt. — Hope :  winged,  scarcely  touching 
the  earth  which  she  is  quitting,  and 
eagerly  stretching  forwards  and  up- 
wards to  the  celestial  crown. — On  the 
opposite  wall.  Despair :  portrayed  as 
a  female,  who,  at  the  instigation  of  the 
Fiend,  is  in  the  act  of  hanging  herself. 
— ChctHty :  a  triple  flame  issues  from 
her  head.  Her  countenance  is  beaming 
with  joy.  She  holds  up  her  right  hand 
to  receive  gifts  from  heaven;  and  in 
her  left  is  the  vase  from  which  she  dis- 
penses them.  —  JSnvy :  standing  in 
flames:  a  serpent  issues  from  her 
mouth,  and  recoils  on  herself :  she  has 
the  ears  and  claws  of  a  wolf. — Faith : 
holding  the  creed,  and  trampling  on 
a  horoscope:  in  the  other  hand  she 
grasps  the  cross.  When  we  recollect 
the  trust  which,  in  the  age  of  Giotto, 
was  placed  in  astrologers,  the  boldness 
of  thought  which  this  figure  discloses 
will  be  appreciated. —  Unbelief:  a  Bo- 
man  helmet  upon  her  head;  in  her 
hand  an  ancient  heathen  idol,  to  which 
she  is  noosed,  and  by  which  she 
is  dragged  to  the  pit.  —  Justice:  a 
crowned  matron  seated  upon  a  throne ; 
her  countenance  severe  and  thoughtftd. 
The  scales  of  the  balance  which  she 
poises  are  perfectly  even.  In  one  an 
angel  presents  a  laurel-wreath  to  the 
good;  in  the  other  is  the  destroyer, 
wielding  the  sword  for  the  punishment 
of  the  wii'.ked.  Beneath  is  a  compo- 
sition with  figures  hunting,  sporting ; 
apparently  indicating  the  ease  and  com- 


fort enjoyed  by  those  who  Hve  under  a 
good  government. — Injustice:  an  elderly 
man  in  the  dress  of  a  judge,  of  a  harsh 
and    forbidding    countenance:    he     is 
"  sitting  in  the  gate ;"  but  the  path.  t<r 
his  tribunal  is  overgrown  with  thorns 
and  briers,  and  his  fingers  terminate  i  n 
claws.     In  one  hand  he  holds  an  un- 
sheathed sword  for  punishment ;  in  the 
other  a  hook  (like  that  with  which  de- 
mons are  usually  represented),  c»  the 
emblem  of  rapacity.     In  the  compart- 
ment below,  travellers  assaulted  and 
murdered,  indicate,  in  apparent  con- 
trast to  the  figures  on  the  opposite  side, 
the  miseries  of  living  under  an   evil 
government.  —  Temperarice  :    a  female 
figure  fully  draped.   She  holds  a  sword, 
but  it  is  bound  into  the  scabbard :  a 
bit  is  placed  in  her  mouth — emblem  of 
restraint. — Anger:    a    hideous    crone, 
tearing  her  dress. — Fortitude :  in  an- 
cient  armour ;     the    skin    of  a   lion 
thrown  over  the  shoulder.     She  rests 
tranquilly  upon  the  shield  which  she 
opposes  to  her  enemies. — iwcow^owcy ; 
a  young  girl,  and,  with  some  touch  of 
satire,  represented  in  the  dress  of  a  Flo- 
rentine damsel,  falling  backwards  from  a 
wheel,  upon  which  she  tries  to  balance 
herself;  in  allusion  to  Ecoles.xxxiii.  6. — 
Prudence :  sitting  at  a  desk,  and  contem- 
plating herself  in  a  mirror.     At  the 
back  of  her  head  is  the  face  of  an  old 
man,  but  apparently  a  mask,  or  part  of 
her  head-dress,  and  not  a  second  face, 
as  in  the  tomb  of  San  Pietro  Martire  at 
MUan.   Rafael  adopted  this  mode  of 
allegorising  the  Virtues. — Folly:  in  a 
fantastic  dress,  probably  intended  for 
that  of  a  court  fool,  or  jester. 

The  tribime,  or  choir,  is  painted  with 
the  history  of  the  Virgin,  by  some  sup- 
posed to  be  by  Taddeo  di  Bartolo  of 
Siena,  but,  from  their  close  approach  to 
Giotto's  own  style,  with  more  likeli- 
hood by  his  pupil  Taddeo  Q-addi:  be- 
this  as  it  may,  they  are  much  inferior 
to  those  of  Giotto.  They  represent,  1. 
the  visit  of  the  Virgin  to  St,  EUzabetli ; 
2,  The  Pact  between  the  Devil  and 
Judas  ;  3,  The  Virgin  announcing  her 
Death  to  St.  John  ;  4,  Her  Death, 
and  in  the  three  lower  compartments 


Venet.  Prov.     Bte*  31. — Padua — Church  of  the  Eremitanu  363 


of  the  choir,  6,  The  Obsequies  of  the 
Virgin ;  6,  Her  Ascent  to  Heaven ; 
and  7,  Her  Coronation.  Behind  the 
altar  is  the  tomb  of  Enrico  Scrovegno, 
who  died  in  exile  at  Venice  in  1320. 
It  is  highly  finished  in  the  style  of 
the  Pisan  school,  surmounted  by  3 
small  statues  of  the  Yirgin  and  2 
Angels.  The  sculptor  is  vmknown, 
although  on  one  of  the  statues  is 
cut  the  name  of  Johannis  Magistri 
Niooli,  whence  it  has  been  supposed 
the  work  of  Griov.  Pisano.  The  win- 
dows of  the  chapel  mostly  retain  the 
ancient  Venetian  glazing — small  circu- 
lar panes  of  thick  glass, — which  adds 
to  its  antique  effect.  This  glazing  is 
not  now  often  found  in  Italy ;  but  it 
may  be  remarked  that  one  example 
exists  in  England,  at  Chester,  in  a 
room  overlooking  the  cloisters.  In  the 
small  sacristy  opening  out  of  this 
tribune  is  the  statue  of  the  founder 
placed  in  a  Grothic  niche.* 

The  key  of  the  chapel  is  kept  at  the 
dweUing-house  in  the  Arena,  where  the 
proprietor  resides.  Inquiry  should  also 
be  made  for  the  key  of  the  sacristy, 
which  is  often  locked. 

Ch.  of  the  JEremitani.  This  church 
adjoins  the  Arena.  It  was  erected 
between  1264  and  1276,  the  roof  30 
years  afterwards  by  the  same  Fra  Gio- 
vanni who  put  up  that  of  the  Palazzo 
della  Bagione,  and  who  is  said  to  have 
employed  here  the  old  one  which  he 
obtained  for  his  labour.  It  is  a  most 
solemn  and  striking  building,  from  its 
simplicity aswell  as  its  ornament.  It  con- 
sists of  a  single  nave,  nearly  300  ft.  long, 
lighted  from  the  extremities.  The  large 
choir*  has  some  curious  frescoes,  attri- 
buted to  Chiariento,  and  remarkable, 
not  only  for  the  beauty  of  the  design,  but 
for  their  mystical  and  allegorical  cha- 
racter.   The  lower  tier  in  chiaroscuro 

*  The  frescoes  of  the  Arena  chapel  have  been 
reproduced  (1857)  in  a  beautiful  series  of 
cbromo-lithographs,  accomx>anied  by  artistic  de- 
tails, by  the  Arundel  Society.  The  general  view 
of  the  chapel,  from  the  pencil  of  one  of  our 
most  talented  amateur  artists,  Mrs.  Hlgford  Birr, 
Is  a  remarkable  work,  whether  considered  as  a 
most  faithful  copy,  executed  with  consummate 
skill  and  feelii^,or  for  the  application  of  chromo- 
lithography  in  reproducing  the  now  rapidly 
perishing  works  of  the  early  Italian  painters. 


consist  of  the  planets  ruling  the  con- 
stellations more  pecuHarly  appropriated 
to  them. — ^The  Earth  appears  crowned 
with  the  papal  tiara,  and  placed  between 
Industry  and  Idleness,  an  allegory  of 
which  it  is  difficult  to  hit  the  precise 
meaning. — Mercury   is  dressed  like  a 
friar. — Mars  is  mounted  on  a  spirited 
steed,  painted   with   much  action.  — 
Venus  is  adjusting  her  attire:  and  so 
on:   all  very  strange. — Above  are  large 
paintings,  in  6  compartments  on  either 
side, representing  subjects  from  the  lives 
of  the  saints ;  some  of  them  have  suf- 
fered from  damp,  time,   and  neglect. 
By  Mantegna  are  fine  frescoes  in  the 
large  chapel  of  SS.  Christopher  and 
James  on  the  rt.    The  best  compart- 
ment, though  unfortunately  damaged, 
is  that  representing  the  death  of  St. 
Christopher,  in  wluch  Mcmtegna  has 
introduced  himself  in  the  character  of 
a    young    Soldier,    holding   a    spear. 
Squarcione  appears  as  another  soldier, 
in  a   green    dress    near   him.       The 
compartments  of  the  upper  row  are  by 
Buono  and  Ansuino^  disciples  of  Squar- 
cione ;  they  have  great  merit,  though  in- 
ferior to  their  master's.  The  altar  of  this 
chapel  has  several  figures  of  terracotta, 
painted  of  a  bronze  colour.  They  are  by 
Qiovcmni  di  Pisa^  a  pupil  of  DonateUo. 
Cicognara  ranks  them  very  high  for  their 
grace  and  movement  as  well  as  for  the 
beauty  of  the  drapery.      Behind  the 
altar  are  frescoes,  by  N,  Pizzolo,  of  the 
school  of  Mantegna.      The  painting  of 
the  Assumption  of  the  Yh'gin,  with  the 
Apostles  below,  is  by  Niccolo  Pizzolo, 
a  competitor  oi  Mantegna! s.  The  paint- 
ing over  the  high  altar  of  the  church, 
by  Mwmicellif  is  a  grand  composition. 
It  is  a  votive  picture  of  the  Madonna 
and  four  Saints,  presented  by  the  city 
of  Padua :  in  it  is  introduced  a  portrait 
of  the  Doge  Andrea  Q-ritti,  holding  the 
city  in  his  hand.      On  the  altar  of  the 
sacristy  is  a  good  St.  John  the  Baptist 
in  the  Desert  by  Ghtido. 

The  tombs  in  this  church  are  in- 
t^esting :  none  more  so  than  that  of 
Jacopo  di  Carrara,  5th  Lord  of  Padu% 
the  friend  and  patron  of  Petrarch,  who 
composed  the  Latin  epitaph  upon  it. 
The  companion  to  this  monument  is 

V  3 


354 


Boide  31. — Padua — Churches, 


Sect.  IV. 


that  of  Ubertino  di  Carrara  (died  1354). 
Each  is  beneath  a  canopy  as  large  as  a 
church  portal :  the  figures  are  of  beau- 
tiful execution.  The  countenance  of 
Ubertino,  the  hard  old  man,  is  expres- 
sive. These  two  monuments  originally 
stood  in  the  suppressed  Ch.  of  S.  Agos- 
tino.  With  the  exception  of  these 
tombs,  there  are  but  few  memorials  of 
the  once  powerful  lords  of  Padua. 
The  extinction  .of  the  family  is  one  of 
the  most  gloomy  eyents  in  the  history 
of  Venice.  After  a  valiant  defence 
Francesco  di  Carrara  and  his  two  sons 
surrendered  Padua  to  the  Venetians 
(1405)  :  they  were  independent  princes 
nowise  subject  to  Venice ;  but  by  the 
Council  of  Ten  they  were  condemned 
and  strangled  in  the  dungeons  of  St. 
Mark,  1406.  Francesco  made  a  despe- 
'  ite  resistance  in  his  cell,  but  was  over- 
^jowered,  and  a  member  of  the  noble 
^  jamily  of  Priuli  did  not  disdain  to  per- 
form the  task  of  executioner. 
,  The  monimient  to  the  architect  of 
r<;he  church  is  in  the  rt. -hand  transept : 
he  .is  represented  by  an  odd  half-length 
jtatue,  clad  in  a  robe.  Near  it  are 
jihose  of  Spigelius  and  VaUsnieri,  two 
celebrated  professors  in  the  university. 
The  splendid  monument  of  Benavides, 
professor  of  law  (1583),  is  by  Amma- 
nati :  the  artist  has  equally  displayed 
his  talents  as  a  sculptor  and  as  an  ar- 
chitect. Benavides  would  not  trust 
his  executors,  and  therefore  he  erected 
this  memorial  in  his  lifetime :  it  is 
decorated  with  allegorical  figures  of 
Wisdomand  Labour,  Honour  and  Fame. 
In  the  passage  leading  from  the  1.  tran- 
sept to  the  sacristy  is  the  slab  tombstone 
of  Pietro  di  Abano.  (Petri  Aponi  Ci- 
neres,  ob.  An.  1351,  eetat.  66.)  This  ch. 
is  considered  as  the  chapel  of  the  imi- 
versity,  and  tlie  students  attend  divine 
service  here  on  Sundays  and  hoUdays. 
As  it  received  them  when  living,  so  it  was 
their  place  of  repose  when  dead;  and 
there  are  many  touching  inscriptions  to 
their  memory.  In  the  sacristy  is  a  bas- 
relief,  by  Canova,  to  the  memory  of  Wil- 
liam Frederick  Prince  of  Orange,  who 
died  at  Padua  in  1799,  at  the  age  of  25 
years.  It  represents  the  ever-recurring 
weeping  female  figure,  near  wliich  is 


a  pelican.  The  design  has  much 
beauty  of  form,  and  it  is  carefully 
executed.  Near  this  is  the  Gothic 
monument  of  red  marble  to  the  memory 
of  Paulus  de  Venetiis  (ob.  1419),  and 
upon  which  he  is  represented  lecturing 
to  his  pupils,  men  as  old  as  liimself, 
and  with  cowls  and  hoods  ;  but,  as  at 
Pavia,  the  dignity  of  the  professor  is 
preserved  by  his  being  represented  four 
times  as  large  as  his  auditors. 

Amongst  the  other  churches  of  Padua 
may  be  noticed : — 

Ch.  of  Santa  Sofia^  supposed  to 
be  the  ancient  cathedral  of  Padua. 
Some  portions  of  the  architecture  and 
sculptures,  especially  about  the  prin- 
cipal portal,  are  of  the  12th  century, 
and  in  a  rude  style.  It  contains  some 
early  paintings.  ' 

Ch.  of  San  Michele :  a  fragment  pre- 
served by  the  care  of  a  private  indi- 
vidual, and  converted  into  an  oratory. 
Here  is  a  painting  of  the  Adoration  of 
the  Magi,  by  Jacojpo  da  Verona,  dated 
1397 ;  it  has  merit  in  itself ;  but  its 
principal  interest  consists  in  its  por- 
traits of  several  members  of  the  Carrara 
family.  In  the  painting  of  the  Funeral 
of  the  Virgin  opposite  are  said  to  be 
introduced  those  of  Boccaccio,  Dante, 
Petrarch,  and  Pietro  di  Abano.  The 
body  of  the  church,  which  was  covered 
with  excellent  frescoes,  has  been  pulled 
down. 

Ch.  of  San  Gaetano,  not  far  from  the 
Arena.  The  fine  facade  is  byScamozzi. 
Two  paintings  by  Maganza,  the  Ado- 
ration of  the  Magi,  and  our  Lord  dis- 
puting in  the  Temple,  and  a  small  half- 
figure  of  the  Virgin  by  Titian^  are  in 
the  chapel  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre. 

Ch.  of  Sta,  Maria  in  Vanzo,  erected 
in  the  16th  century.  The  painting 
over  the  liigh  altar  is  by  Bartolomm^o 
Montagna :  it  represents  the  Virgin 
surrounded  by  a  host  of  saints.  Tlie 
fresco  of  the  Coronation  of  Hie  Virgin 
on  the  vault  is  by  the  same  painter. 
Jacopo  SassanOf  Our  Lord  carried  to 
the  Sepulchre,  in  the  chapel  on  1.  of  the 
high  altar,  is  a  striking  composition. 
The  artist,  according  to  his  custom,  has 
introduced  the  portraits  of  himself  and 
his  family.     Annexed  to  this  cliurch  is 


Venetian  Prov.        Boute  31. — Padua — University/. 


355 


the  Seminario  Vescovile,  or  College  for 
students  in  theology,  which  contains 
an  excellent  library  of  upwards  of 
40,000  printed  books  and  several  MSS., 
amongst  which  is  an  autograph  letter 
ef  Petrarch  to  Jacopo  Dondi,  a  curious 
Psalter  of  the  14th  cent.,  and  the  ori- 
ginal MS»  in  12  vols,  by  Forcellini  of  his 
great  Latin  Dictionary.  Attached  to  the 
Seminary  is  an  extensive  printing  office. 

Ch.  of  II  Carmine,  near  the  gate,  on 
entering  from  the  Eailway  station,  for- 
merly G-othic.  In  the  Scuola  adjoining, 
now  neglected,  are  several  paintings  of 
considerable  merit,  by  Campagnola  and 
Qirolamo  Padovano,  and  two  which 
may  be  by  Titian  or  Falma  Vecchio. 

The  University,  or,  in  more  ancient 
language,  the  Studio  of  Padua,  enjoyed 
considerable  celebrity  as  early  as  1221, 
when  Frederic  II.  commanded  the 
students  of  Bologna  to  forsake  that 
city,  which  had  incurred  his  displea- 
sure, and  to  resort  to  the  city  of  An- 
tenor.  At  first  it  was  pre-eminent  in 
law,  and  the  great  Baldus  here  taught 
and  professed  what  lawyers  call  the 
written  reason." 

Padua  also  greatly  excelled  in  medi- 
cine; and  the  professorsliips  of  the 
university  include  some  of  the  greatest 
medical  names  of  the  16th  and  17th 
centuries  —  Vesalius  (1540),  Fallopius 
(1551),  Fahricius  ah  Aquapendenie 
(1665),  and  Spigelius  (1618).  Here 
Sanctorius  taught  (1611)  ;  and,  in 
times  nearer  our  own,  Morgagni  conti- 
nued to  emulate  their  learning.  The 
university,  which  was  specially  pro- 
tected and  encouraged  by  the  Vene- 
tians, enjoys  perhaps  greater  reputation 
as  a  medical  school  than  any  in  Italy. 
It  has  five  faculties,  theology,  law,  me- 
dicine, philosophy,  and  mathematics. 
Each  faculty  has  a  Direttore  or  Dean, 
one  of  the  senior  Professors,  who, 
with  the  Hettore  Magnifico,  elected 
by  tlie  several  faculties  and  approved 
by  the  government,  constitute  the 
Senatua  Aeademicus.  There  are  46 
professorships,  and  the  students  vary 
in  number  .between  1500  and  2000. 
The  public  treasury  contributes  only 
about  10,000  lire  annually  towards  the 
general  expenses. 


Attached  to  the  University  are  seve- 
ral establishments  in  different  parts  of 
the  town,  such  as  4  clinical  schools  for 
medicine,  surgery,  diseases  of  the  eye, 
and  midwifery ;  veterinary  and  agricul- 
tural schools  ;  a  botanic  garden  and  an 
astronomical  observatory. 

The   Palace    of   the    University    is 
called   il   Bu,  or   the  Ox,   it  is   said 
from  the  sign  of  the   inn  upon  the 
site  of  which  it  stands ;  something  in 
the  same  way  that  the  Sog-market  is 
honoured  at  Oxford.     Others  dispute 
this  origin  of  the  name,  and  ascribe  it 
to  a  different  tradition,  and  point  out 
the  figure  of  the  animal  on  a  column 
withm.  The  buildingwas  began  in  1493^' 
at  the  expense  of  the  repubUc  of  Venide. 
The  great  court.,  attributed  to  Palla4fo, 
but  perhaps  with  more  reason  to  Scm- 
sovino,  is  very  handsome  :  the  walls  *»!• 
entirely  covered  with  the  armorial  bea 
ings  of  the  members.    At  the  top  (  ' 
the  staircase  is  the  statue  of  Elena  La. 
crezia  Comoro I^iscopia,'who  died  16S^ 
aged  48  years.     She  spoke    Hebrew 
Arabic,   Greek,   Latin,    Spanish,    anti 
French,  with  fluency,  was  a  tolerate 
ppetess,   an  excellent  musician,  wro  3 
mathematical  and  astronomical  disse.- 
tations,  and  received  a  doctor's  degree 
from  the   universitv.     She  died    un- 
married, having  reiused  many  advan- 
tageous offers.    The  Anatomical  The- 
atre was  built  by  Fahricius  ah  Aqua- 
pendente  in  1594.     Although  it  only 
replaced  a  pre-existing  one  of  the  15th 
centy.,  it  stiU  is  the  oldest  in  Europe. 
The  design  for  it  is  said  to  have  been 
given  by  Fra  Paolo  Sarpi.  The  collection 
of  anatomical  preparations  and  models 
is  worthy  of  a  visit.      That  of  natural 
liistory  wa«  first  founded  by  Vallisnieri 
in  1734 :  the  mineralogical  and  paleon- 
tological  divisions  are  the  most  com- 
plete;   the    latter    particularly   so  in 
fossils  of  the  Veronese  and  Vicentine 
hills,  especially   in  fossil   fishes  from 
Monte  Bolca.    Galileo  was  professor  of 
mathematics  here  for  upwards  of  ten 
years  ;  and  in  the  Gahinetto  di  Fisica 
they  exhibit  one  of  his  vertebr®,  pur- 
loined probably  when  his  remains  were 
removed,    in    1757,   to   their  present 
resting-place  in  the   church  of  Santa 


356 


Eoute  3 1 . — Padua — Library —  Ohsermtory,         Sect,  IV . 


exoi 


Croce  at  Florence.  The  Oahinetto 
Antiquario  e  di  Nuwismatica,  opening 
out  of  the  cortile,  contains  several  Ro- 
man and  Greek  bronzes,  inscriptions, 
&c.,  and  a  curious  papyrus  from  Ra- 
yenna,  of  the  years  616-619 — a  deed  of 
sale. 

As  Padua  can  show  the  earhest  ana- 
tomical theatre,  so  also  does  it  possess 
the  most  ancient  botanic  garden  in 
Europe,  it  having  been  instituted  by 
the  Venetian  senate  in  1543.  The  cele- 
brated Prosper  Alpinus  professed  here 
in  1545.  It  is  situated  near  the 
churches  of  II  Santo  and  Sta.  Giustina, 
and  is  laid  out  in  the  ancient  formal 
style.  The  garden  is  interesting  as  con- 
taining some  of  the  oldest  specimens  of 
exotic  trees  and  plants  now  common 
Europe,  the  patriarchs  of  our  shrub- 
ies,  plantations,  and  conservatories. 
The  Ijebanon  cedaj",  the  oriental  plane, 
and  a  Gleditchia  93  feet  high,  may  be 
noticed.  The  magnolias  are  superb. 
Attached  to  the  garden  are  a  Botanical 
Museum  with  an  extensive  herhaHunty 
and  a  Library  of  5000  volumes  with 
several  MSS. 

Bihliotheca  Ptihlica.  This  library, 
considered  as  that  of  the  University, 
la  situated  at  some  distance  from  it,  in 
the  vast  cortile  of  the  Palazzo  del 
Capitamo,  The  large  hall,  which 
formed  a  part  of  the  palace  of  the 
Carraras,  is  the  most  extensive  in 
Padua  after  that  of  the  P.  delle  Ragione : 
the  printed  books  amount  to  upwards 
of  100,000  volumes,  and  the  MSS.  to 
1500.  This  haU,  formerly  covered 
with  frescoes  by  Avanzi  and  Ghiariento, 
having  fallen,  the  colossal  frescoes  of 
heroes  and  emperors  which  now  deco- 
rate it  were  painted  in  1540,  chiefly  by 
J).  Campagnolay  the  portrait  of  Pe- 
trarch, much  injured,  alone  remaining. 
The  library  is  open,  except  on  Wednes- 
days and  feast-days,  from  9  a.m.  to  3 
p.m.,  from  Nov.  3rd  to  Sept.  7th. 

The  Specolaf  or  astronomical  ob- 
servatory, dates  from  1767.  It  is  situ- 
ated in  the  mediaeval  tower  of  S.  To- 
maso,  the  principal  defence  of  Padua  on 
the  W.  side.  Erected  by  Eccelino  da 
Romano,  it  served  as  the  prison  in  which 


many  of  his  victims  suffered.  The  Ob« 
servatory,  under  the  direction  of  Prof. 
Santini,  is  well  supplied  with  instru- 
ments fr^m  London,  Munich,  and 
Vienna.  The  view  from  the  summit  is 
very  fine  over  the  N.E.  Alps,  the  Lagune 
of  Venice,  and  the  Euganean  hills. 

Padua  has  many  palaces  and  fine  old 
houses. 

Palazzo  Oiustinia/ni^  anciently  be- 
longing to  the  Comaro  family.  It  is 
from  the  designs  of  FaUonetto.  Ad- 
joining it  is  a  rotonda,*  also  erect-ed 
by  Falconetto,  intended  for  musical 
entertainments,  and  built  by  the  direc- 
tions of  the  celebrated  Luigi  Comaro, 
the  writer  on  the  mode  of  prolonging 
life.     It  is  a  very  beautiiul  structure. 

Palazzo  Pappafava  (now  the  pro- 
perty of  Count  Andrea  CittadeUa  di 
Vicodazzere,  the  descendant  of  that 
family)  contains  a  good  collection  of 
paintings ;  amongst  others,  some  cu- 
rious frescoes  brought  from  suppressed 
convents.  Also  a  strange  group,  in 
sculpture,  by  Agostmo  Fasolata^  of 
Lucifer  and  his  companions  cast  down 
from  heaven.  It  consists  of  60  figures, 
carved  out  of  one  block  of  marble. 
These  figures  are  so  twisted  together 
that  it  is  difficult  to  understand  how 
the  artist  could  have  managed  his  tools. 
It  is  5  feet  high.  The  artist  was  em- 
ployed upon  it  more  than  12  years; 
it  is  a  wonderftd  specimen  of  patience. 
The  Pappafeiva  fiunily  are  descended 
from  a  branch  of  the  Carraras  before 
they  became  Lords  of  Padua  j  but  the 
name  being  thought  dangerous  by  the 
jealous  republic,  they  were  compelled 
to  exchange  it  for  a  sobriquet^  borne  by 
one  of  their  ancestors. 

Palazzo  Zigno.  The  geologist  will 
find  there  a  very  interesting  collection 
of  fossils  and  rocks,  generally  of  this 
neighbourhood,  formed  by  its  present 
owner,  Cav.  Zigno,  one  of  the  talented 
geologists  of  N.  Italy. 

The  House  ofFccelino  is  now  con- 
verted into  the  Marionette  or  Puppet 
Theatre  of  Santa  Lucia.  Some  Gothic 
windows  are  preserved. 

Theatres.  T?he  Teatro  Nuovo  is 
opened  during  a  season  styled  "Eiera 
del  Santo "  (the  fair  of  St.  Anthony), 


Venetian  Prov.         Eoute  31. — Padua  to  Venice. 


357 


which  begins  in    June    and  ends    in  | 
August ;  the  Teatro  Nuovissimo,  neap 
the  cathedral,  and  the  Teatro  IHumo  \ 
are  for  representations  by  daylight. 

The  ancient  defences  of  "  Padova 
la  Forte "  are  much  dilapidated :  a 
few  towers  remain,  and  some  gateways 
by  Falconetto,  in  a  good  style. 

Hospitals.  The  principal  hospital, 
called  the  Spedale  Civile^  in  the  street 
behind  the  University,  is  a  very  exten- 
sive building,  erected  on  the  site  of  a 
suppressed  college  of  the  Jesuists  in 
1798.  It  can  receive  500  patients.  5 
of  its  wards  belong  to  the  University, 
and  constitute  the  (Sinical  School:  they 
can  accommodate  50  medical  and  25 
surgical  cases.  Other  wards  are  occupied 
by  Obstetric  and  Ophthalmic  cases.  In 
the  chapel  of  the  Hospital  is  a  monu- 
ment to  Bishop  Giustiniani,  the  great 
benefactor  of  the  charity,  by  Canova. 
One  division  of  the  Spedale  Civile  is  set 
apart  for  lunatics. 

The  Hospital  of  S.  GHovcmni  di  JDio 
is  under  the  management  of  the  monks 
of  that  Order,  and  can  receive  a  small 
number  of  acute  medical  and  surgical 
cases.  The  Foundling  Hospital^  or 
Istituto  degli  EspoBti,  was  founded  un- 
der the  denomination  of  the  CasA  di 
Dio  in  1097.  It  is  consequently  the 
oldest  institution  of  the  kind  in  Europe. 
The  annual  admissions  average  about 
400 ;  there  are  upwards  of  3000  chil- 
dren in  all  on  the  books,  the  deaths 
averaging  on  the  latter  number  15  per 
cent. 

PUm  for  msiting  in  one  day  the  Sights 
at  FaduUf  in  topographical  order. 

Palazzo  della  Ragione ;  Fal.  delta 
Munidpalita ;  Pal.  del.  ConsigHo, 
Library  j  DuomOy  Baptistery^  and  PaL 
Vescoiole  ;  Observatory ;  Prato  della 
Valle ;  Ch.  of  Sant^  Antonio  and 
Scuola ;  Botanic  Garden ;  Ch.  of 
Santa  GHustina  and  Chapel  of  San 
Oio-rgio  ;  Ch.  of  S.  Michele ;  Tomb  of 
Antenor;  University  and  its  collections  j 
Arena  and  Sta.  Maria  delV  Arena ;  Ch. 
oigli  Eremitani;  Ch.  of  11  Carmine. 

Excursions  can  be  more  easily  made 
from  Padua  to  the  different  places  in 


the  Euganean  hills  than  from  any  other 
point.  Carriages  can  be  hired  for 
Battaglia,  where  there  is  a  good  inn, 
Hdtel  di  Battaglia^  which  is  much  fre- 
quented during  the  season  of  baths, 
tfuly,  August,  and  September.  From 
Battaglia  excursions  can  be  easUy 
made  to  Arqua,  the  retreat  of  Petrarch, 
to  the  Baths  of  Abano,  &c.  &c.,  which 
are  described  B.te.  32;  and  by  the 
geologist  amongst  the  volcanic  forma- 
tions of  the  adjoining  group.  For 
road  and  conveyances  to  Rovigo  and 
Ferrara,  see  Bte  33. 


PadMa  to  Venice. 

37  kil.=23  Eng.  m. 

Trains  leave  Padua  4  times  a  day, 
performing  the  journey  in  IJ  hr.  The 
railway  crosses  a  flat  iminteresting 
country. 

4  m.  Ponte  di  Brenta  Stat.,  situated 
near  the  Brenta,  which  the  rly.  crosses 
here.    The  town  on  the  rt. 

10  m.  Dolo  Stat.  Between  tliis  and 
the  next  stat.  the  Alps  of  the  Friuli 
and  Carinthia  are  well  seen.  There 
are  some  villas  of  the  Venetian  nobility 
about  the  town  of  Dolo. 

15  m.  Marano  Stat.  The  town  of 
Marano,  on  the  banks  of  the  Brenta, 
with  its  high  steeple,  is  about  2  miles 
on  the  1.  "We  here  cross  one  of  the 
principal  canals,  along  which  and  from 
the  bridge  there  is  a  fine  vista. 

21  m.  Mestre  Stat.y  with  a  good 
buffet,  about  2  miles  from  the  La- 
guna.  The  railway  to  Treviso,  Cone- 
gliano,  Pordenone,  Udine,  and  Trieste 
strikes  off  from  this  srat.  to  the  1. 
We  now  pass  (on  the  1.,  and  on  the 
borders  of  the  se&)  the  Fort  of  Mai' 
ghera,  a  very  strong  position,  which  un- 
derwent a  long  siege  in  1849  :  its  faU 
led  to  the  surrender  of  Venice,  since 
which,  as  the  key  to  the  Queen  of  the 
Adriatic  on  the  land  side,  it  has  under- 
gone considerable  additions  and  re- 
pairs. "We  here  enter  on  the  bridge, 
which  is  traversed  in  about  6  minutes. 
This  great  work,  which  carries  the  rail* 
road  over  the  Lagoon,  and  enters  Venice 
on  the  island  of  3t.  Lucia,  is  parallel  to 


X' 


358 


Boute  31. —  Venice — MisceUaneom  Information,        Sect,  IV. 


and  a  little  S.  of,  the  channel  connecting 
Venice  with  Mestre,  and  passes  close 
to  the  fort  of  San  Secondo  :  it  occupied 
4t\  years  in  erecting,  and  was  com- 
pleted on  the  27th  of  October,  1845. 
The  length  of  the  bridge  is  3936  yds., 
or  2  m.  and  416  yds.  It  consists  of 
222  circular  arches,  of  32  ft.  9^  in. ; 
span.  The  thickness  of  the  single  piers 
is  3J  ft.  The  height  of  the  top  of  the 
parapet  above  the  mean  level  of  the 
water  of  the  Lagoon  is  14  ft.  The 
width  of  the  bridge,  where  it  passes 
over  arches,  is  29^  ft.  In  the  centre 
is  a  large  embankment,  called  Piazza 
MaggiorCy  446  ft.  in  length,  and  in 
width  97  ft.  10  in.  The  depth  of  the 
water  through  which  the  bridge  is  car- 
ried varies  from  13  to  3  ft.  The  soil  of 
the  bottom  of  the  Lagoon,  where  it  is 
built,  is  entirely  of  mud.  The  founda- 
tion is  upon  piles  driven  into  the  bed  of 
the  Lagoon.  The  piers  from  the  plat- 
form on  the  heads  of  the  piles  up  to 
the  impost  are  of  limestone,  the  arches 
and  spandrils  of  brick,  the  cornice  and 
parapet  of  Istrian  stone.  Close  inside 
the  parapet,  on  a  level  with  the  roadway, 
two  channels  are  formed  for  carrying 
freshwater  from  the  mainland  to  Venice. 
It  may  give  some  idea  of  the  magni- 
tude of  the  work  to  mention  that, 
amongst  other  materials,  80,000  larch 
piles  were  used  in  the  foundations, 
and  in  the  bridge  itself  21  millions  of 
bricks  and  176,437  cubic  ft.  of  Istrian 
stone;  and  that,  on  an  average,  1000 
men  were  employed  daily.  It  cost 
5,600,000  Austrian  lire,  =  186,666/. 
T)ie  bridge  was  much  injured  during 
the  siege  of  Venice  in  1849,  when 
several  of  the  arches  were  destroyed, 
and  a  battery  formed  of  the  Piazza 
Maggiore. 

23|  m.  Venice  Stai,  Although 
Venice  is  a  free  port  for  everything  but 
salt  and  tobacco,  passengers'  luggage  is 
sometimes  searched  at  the  station,  and 
books  are  examined.  The  examination 
is  more  rigorous  on  leaving  Venice,  and 
duties  charged  on  very  small  quantities 
of  tobacco  or  snuff. 

The  rly.  stat.  is  at  a  considerable 
distance  from  most  of  the  hotels,  but 


gondolas  in  abundance  will  be  found  on 
the  arrival  of  each  train.  The  B.ly. 
Company  has  established  a  service  of 
omnibus  boats :  the  fare  for  conveying 
the  traveller  to  the  vicinity  of  the 
Piazza  di  Sau  Marco  is  10  soldi, 
and  7  for  every  article  of  luggage 
which  the  traveller  cannot  carry  in  his 
hand,  not  including  a  fee  of  1  fr.  to  the 
boatman  for  carrying  the  latter  to  the 
traveller's  apartment  in  the  hotel ;  but 
as  these  omnibus  boats  are  only  bound 
to  convey  persons  to  certain  stations, 
they  may  exact  an  additional  sum  for 
calling  at  the  hotels ;  a  gondola  will  be 
found  the  most  expeditious,  comfortable, 
and  oft;en  as  economical  a  conveyance, 
the  whole  charge  not  exceeding  2  lire. 
(See  at  next  page.) 

VENICE.  Ital.,  Venezia:  French, 
Vhnise :  Germ.,  Venedig. 

Hotels :  H6tel  Barbed^  in  the  Pal. 
Zuchelli,  on  the  Grand  Canal,  opposite 
the  ch.  of  La  Salute,  in  a  quiet  situa- 
tion, many  of  the  apartments  looking 
S.,  2  minutes'  walk  from  the  Piazza 
di  S.  Marco.  Arrangements  during 
a  prolonged  stay  may  be  made  advan- 
tageously for  board  and  lodging  at  the 
H.  JSarbesiy  which  has  a  garden  with 
a  southern  aspect,  a  fine  view  over  the 
Lagimes,  and  in  a  good  situation  as 
a  winter  residence;  it  is  kept  by  the 
former  proprietor  of  the  H6tel  de  la 
Ville,  who  speaks  English,  and  is  com- 
fortable in  every  respect:  table-d'hdte 
at  4  frs.  without  wine ;  bedrooms,  2  to 
5 ;  breakfast,  1*50  to  2.  Baths  in  the 
house. 

Alhergo  Seale,  formerly  DanieU,  on 
the  Riva  dei  Schiavoni.  It  was  formerly 
the  Nani-Mocenigo  Palace,  and  is  at  a 
short  distance  from  the  ducal  palace. 
Handsomely  fitted  up  and  much  im- 
proved under  its  new  owners.  Good 
table-d'h6te.  In  the  autumn  mosqui- 
toes are  a  great  pest  at  Venice,  and 
especially  on  the  Riva  dei  Schiavoni,* 

*  A  very  genera]  complaint  against  the  hotels 
at  Venice  has  been  made  of  the  inadequate  pro- 
tection given  by  the  mosquito-cnrtatns  In  use, 
which  are  represented  as  inferior  to  those  in 
other  parts  of  Italy.  Travellers  sliould  iiaut 
on  cfScient  protection  from  tliese  autumnal 
pests. 


r 
i 


K 


Ven.  Pro  v.     Rte,  SI,— Venice — Miscellaneous  Information, 


359 


whioh  is  also  an  inconvenient  situation, 
"  on  the  wrong  side  of  the  Piazza  di  San 
Marco." 

AVbergo  delV  'Eurtypa^  formerly  the 
Giustiniani  Palace,  close  to  the  Piazza 
di  San  Marco,  much  improved;  in  a 
good  situation,  with  a  magnificent 
view  over  the  Southern  Lagunes;  clean 
and  comfortble ;  good  table- d'hdte. 

Albergo  ^Italia,  at  San  Moise,  on  a 
canal  near  the  Fenice  theatre.  It  has 
a  table-d'hdte  and  is  well  recommended, 
and  is  in  a  convenient  though  confined 
situation,  but  near  the  Piazza  di  S. 
Marco. 

Pension  Suisse,  in  a  good  situation 
near  the  Piazza  di  San  Marco,  upon 
the  Grand  Canal,  opposite  the  ch.  of 
La  Salute ;  small,  but  clean  and  com- 
fortable, charges  reasonable — A.  H.  L., 
Oct.  1865. 

Albergo  delta  Luna,  close  to  the 
S.W.  angle  of  the  Piazza,  clean,  mode- 
rate charges  ;  table-d'hdte,  3  frs. 

Hdtel  Bellevue,  in  the  Piazza  S. 
Marco ;  this  hotel  is  well  spoken  of  for 
cleanliness  and  comfort  generally,  with 
a  table-d'h6te. 

Hotel  de  la  Ville,  Palazzo  Loredan, 
on  the  Grand  Canal;  frequented  by 
Germans :  table-d'hdt-e  at  4  lire,  with- 
out wine. 

Hotel  Vittariay  near  the  Piazza  di  S. 
Marco,  (?  closed  1866.) 

Albergo  San  Marco,  in  the  Piazza 
San  Marco,  kept  by  Padron,  with  a 
tolerable  restaurant,  moderate  as  to 
charges. 

Albergo  delta  Calcina,  in  the  Zat- 
tere,  in  a  good  situation,  well  fitted  for 
persons  economically  disposed. 

As  a  general  rule,  come  to  an  under- 
standing beforehand  at  all  the  Venetian 
hotels  as  to  the  charges  to  be  incurred 
during  your  stag! I  Travellers  wilt 
do  well  not  to  listen  to  recommendations 
from  agents  and  toulers  for  hotels  at 
the  railway  station. 

To  visit  Venice  with  the  greatest 
comfort  and  advantage,  the  best  time 
of  the  year  will  be  the  spring,  at  which 
period  the  climate  is  delight^,  the  sky 
clear  and  unclouded,   and  the  canals 


clean  after  their  winter  agitation ;  at 
this  season  there  are  no  mosquitoes, 
the  pest  of  the  place  in  the  autumn, 
when  they  are  really  intolerable,  and 
when  the  stench  from  the  canals,  after 
the  summer  heats,  is  insupportable 
in  some  quarters.  Thick  fogs  set  in 
here,  as  throughout  the  N.  of  Italy,  in 
October,  which  render  the  climate  cold 
and  disagreeable.  During  the  winter 
the  cold  is  at  times  intense,  from  tlie 
violent  winds  descending  from  the 
snow-capped  Alps  of  the  Tyrol  and 
FriuH.  (See  Plan  for  visiting  Venice 
in  topographical  order,  at  p.  412.) 

Passports  are  no  longer  asked  for 
at  Venice,  nor  is  any  signature  of  the 
poUce  necessary  on  leaving  it. 

Restaurants.  GPhere  are  few  good 
at  Venice :  Cafe  Gallo,  good  dinner  for 
5  fr.  At  the  Eestaurant  FranQais,  in 
the  Piazza  di  San  Marco,  dinner  may 
be  had  for  a  florin,  as  well  as  at  the 
Albergo  del  Selvatico,  No.  1224,  near 
the  Piazza  di  San  Marco]  very  fair 
cookery,  "  the  very  one  for  bachelors  ;" 
dinners,  1  florin. 

Cafes.  MoriaiCs  has  long  enjoyed 
what  may  be  called  an  European  repu- 
tation. It  is  situated  in  the  centre  of 
the  Procuratie  Nuove,  and  has  been 
lately  fitted  up  with  great  elegance. 
Galignani  and  some  French  newspapers 
may  be  seen  there,  and  breakfasts  a-la- 
fourchette  and  suppers  may  be  had. 
Close  to  Florian*s  is  the  Cafe  Suttil, 
also  very  good,  and  equally  fashionable, 
but  more  frequented  by  Austrian  so- 
ciety. Nearly  opposite  to  Florian's,  in 
the  Procuratie  Veccliie,  are  the  Cafe  de* 
Specchi,  handsomely  fitted  up  and  good, 
and  the  CafS  Quadri,  the  resort  of  the 
miUtary  and  Austrians.  Italian  ladies 
rarely  enter  the  cafes ;  they  take  their 
refi*eshment — ice  or  coffee — outside, 
especially  when  the  military  bands 
play,  on  Sundays,  Tuesdays,  and 
Thursdayi3. 

The  arcade  outside  Florian's  is  theren- 
dezvousof  the  Venetian  beau  monde  in  tlie 
warm  summer  and  autumnal  evenings. 

Gondolas.  The  tariff  is  as  follows 
within  the  city  limits  (Circondario)  : 
For  a  gondola  with  one  boatman,  40 


860 


Route  SI. —  Venice — Miscxllarieotis  Information.      Sect.  IV. 


soldi  (1  fr.)  for  the  first  hour,  and  20 
soldi  or  50  cent,  for  every  succeeding 
one  J  for  the  day  of  10  hrs.  2  fl. 
10  soldi  (5J  frs.);  double  these  fares 
with  2  rowers;  beyond  the  city  li- 
mits, according  to  agreement.  To  the 
Trieste  steamers  a  gondola  of  2  oars  is 
obligatory.  If,  however,  a  gondola 
is  taken  for  the  day  or  several  hours, 
an  abatement  may  be  eflTected  by  pre- 
vious agreement.  It  will  be  a  good 
plan  for  a  traveller,  as  long  as  he  is 
occupied  in  sight-seeing,  to  hire  a  gon- 
dola by  the  day,  which  with  one  man 
may  be  had  for  1^  florins,  with  a 
trifling  buonamano.  The  gondolier, 
being  generally  well  acquainted  with  the 
situation  of  all  the  objects  a  traveller 
wishes  to  see,  will  thus  save  the  annoy- 
ance and  expense  of  a  valet  de  place. 
From  the  Railway  to  the  Piazzetta  of 
S.  Marco  or  vice  vers&,  80  soldi  or  2  frs., 
and  7  soldi  for  every  parcel  of  luggage. 
AH  gondoliers  are  obliged  to  carry  the 
Police  tariff*,  which  they  must  exhibit 
if  required. 

From  no  class  of  people  is  the  visitor 
at  Venice  more  exposed  to  annoyance 
than  from  the  gondoliers  j  although  the 
fares  are  strictly  determined  by  the  mu- 
nicipal authorities,  they  ever  grumble, 
and  prefer  most  exorbitant  demands 
on  the  stranger.  This  is  particularly 
the  case  on  arriving  from  the  rly.  stat., 
when,  not  content  with  making  a 
fabulous  charge,  they  will  insist  on 
carrying  to  his  apartments  all  lug- 
gage, assuming  the  office  of  the  ser- 
vants of  the  estabUehment.  It  is  to  be 
regretted  that  the  police  authorities 
show  a  great  disinclination  to  interfere 
on  such  occasions  between  the  gondo- 
Uer  and  his  victims,  so  influential  or 
so  feared  are  the  former.  To  avoid 
such  annoyances,  let  the  traveller  write 
the  day  before  his  arrival  to  the  master 
of  the  h6tel  where  he  proposes  to  take 
up  his  quarters,  to  send  a  gondola  to 
be  in  waiting  at  the  rly.  stat. ;  and  as 
each  hotel  has  a  commissionnaire  there, 
who  will  be  recognised  by  the  name  of 
the  establishment  on  his  cap,  all  diffi- 
culties as  to  porters,  boatmen,  &c.,  will 
be  removed* 


Hailways.  Three  trains  leave  Y enice 
daily,  for  Padua,  Vioenza,  Verona,  2only 
continuing  to  Milan  (at  5'45  and  9*25 
a.m.,  in  10  hrs.) ;  5  trains  daily  to 
Padua ;  and  2  trains  for  Trieste  at  11 
A.M.  and  10*26  P.M.,  passing  by  Treviso, 
Conegliano,  Pordenone,  and  XJdine; 
additional  trains  daily  as  fxr  as  the 
latter  place. 

Steamers  Uy  Trieste  on  Tues.,  Thurs., 
and  Sat.,  at  midnight ;  average  passage 
6  hrs.  in  the  best  boats.  The  hrs.  may 
however  vary  with  the  season,  but  they 
can  be  easily  ascertained  at  the  office 
in  the  Piazzetta  di  San  Marco.  Per- 
sons with  return  tickets  to  Trieste 
must  have  them  changed  at  the  office 
the  day  before  starting.  For  Chioggia 
every  morning  in  sunmier. 

Post  Office,  Letters  for  England  are 
despatched  daily  at  an  early  hour,  md 
France  ;  letters  must  be  posted  the 
night  before ;  postage  for  a  single  letter, 
vi&  France,  25  soldi  or  63  centimes 
i  oz.  weight,  arriving  in  London  on 
the  third  day  j  and  by  Grermany  and 
the  Ehine  at  6  a.m. :  but  letters  of  .} 
oz.,  or  double  weight,  may  be  sent  by 
this  route,  arriving  in  nearly  the  same 
time, — postage  35  soldi,  90  centimes. 
Letters  arrive  daily  from  England  by 
both  routes.  The  postage  on  news- 
papers is  high — a  London  paper  cost- 
ing 16  soldi.  Letters  to  the  Italian 
kingdom  must  be  prepaid  10  to  16 
soldi  J  to  Home,  13 ;  to  France  and 
Switzerland,  25  j  to  Germany,  15. 

British  Consulate.  William  Perry, 
Esq.,  Consul  General,  Ko.  2489,  Calle 
Gritti,  near  the  ch.  of  Sta.  Maria  Zo- 
benigo. 

Barkers,  Schielen  Brothers,  No. 
5525,  Campo  La  Fava;  S.  and  A. 
Blumenthal,  close  to  the  Post  Office. 

Painters.  Mr.  Nerly,  a  Prussian, 
whose  views  of  Venice  are  in  great  re^ 
quest,  resides  in  the  Palazzo  Pisani,  a 
S.  Stefano.  Madame  Kartitz  is  a  good 
copyist  of  the  works  of  the  old  masters 
in  the  Academy.  Sig.  Molmenti  is  the 
most  eminent  of  the  painters  of  histo- 
rical subjects  and  of  portraits  at  the 
present  day.    Oarlo  Grubas,  Calle  dell' 


Veitet.  Prov.     Boute  31. —  Femce--M5ceZZane()ws /Tiformafwn.     361 


Erbe,  No.  6120,  paints  small  views  of 
Venice,  both  in  oils  and  body-colour, 
at  a  very  reasonable  rate.  The  best 
views  of  Venice  will  be  the  photographs^ 
to  be  procured  at  Carlo  Ponti's  (the 
best),  No.  52,  Procuratie  Nuove,  in  the 
Piazza  di  S.  Marco ;  Perini's,  No.  55, 
and  Bertoja's,  No.  69  in  the  same 
building ;  and  at  Naya's,  No.  4206  on  j 
the  Kiya  degli  Schiavoni.  | 

Booksellers.  Herman  Munster,  a 
very  obliging  man,  who  speaks  English, 
Piazza  San  Marco,  Nos.  72,  73,  is  well 
suppUed  with  foreign  and  Italian  works, 
maps,  handbooks,  guide-books,  &c. 
Mr.  M.  also  keeps  a  circulating  library 
of  French,  English,  German,  and  Ita- 
lian books. 

Griusto  Ebhardt  (whose  shop  is  at 
No.  4355,  CaUe  dei  Fuseri,  alia  Fenice), 
for  Italian  books.  Mr.  E.  speaks 
EngUsh  well,  and  is  invaluable  to  those 
in  quest  of  Venetian  Uterature. 

Physicians,  Dr.  Locatelli,  Bio 
Terrao;  Dr.  Namias,  Pal.  Bembo  S. 
Salvatore,  near  the  Hdtel  de  la  ViUe ; 
Dr.  Minich,  consulting  physician, 
Ponte  dei  Barcaroh ;  Dr.  Candeo, 
CaUe  San  Benedetto,  highly  spoken  of; 
Dr.  Bichetti,  who  speaks  Enghah,  No. 
5628,  SS.  ApostoU. 

Apothecaries.  There  is  a  good 
apothecary  in  the  Campo  San  Lucca, 
No.  3801,  in  correspondence  with 
Savory  and  Son,  London ;  and  Zampie- 
roni,  in  the  Bocca  di  Piazza,  near  the 
eh.  of  San  Moise. 

Valets  de  Place.  Five  frs.  for  the  first 
day,  and  about  4  for  each  succeeding 
one,  is  ample  payment.  At  the  churches 
25  soldi  to  the  sacristan  will  be  suffi- 
cient. At  the  Doge*s  Palace  and  the 
Academy  somewhat  more,  but  never 
exceeding  1  lire,  except  when  the  party 
i3  large. 

For  English  goods  the  best  shops  are 
Trauner*s,  in  the  Merceria ;  he  is  said 
to  have  fixed  prices,  and  to  be  very  re- 
spectable (he  and  his  son  both  speak 
English) ;  and  Prinoth's,  behind  the 
Piazza  San  Marco,  in  the  street  leading 
to  S.  Mose. 

Venetian  curiosities  and  objects  of 
Oft  (md  vertu,    Bichetti,  Palazzo  Mar- 


ceUo,  Canal  G-rande ;  Arcetti,  near  the 
Ponte  di  Bialtej  Ghiggenheim,  No. 
4278,  CaUe  dei  Fuseri. 

Sculptor  in  bronze.  A.G-iordani,  Corte 
del  Teatro  Nuovo  S.  Cassiano. 

Venetian  glass  and  Smalt  ma/nufae* 
tures^  Mosaics,  Sfc. — The  best  shops  are 
in  the  Piazza  and  San  Marco.  Dr.  Sal- 
viati  is  the  most  celebrated  manufac- 
turer of  smalt  or  opaque  glass  orna- 
ments, mosaics,  &c. ;  nothing  can 
exceed  the  works  in  the  latter,  which 
were  exhibited  in  London  in  1862 :  he 
is  the  person  charged  with  the  mosaics 
in  the  basilica  of  St.  Mark's,  both  as 
regards  repairs  and  restoration,  and 
with  the  beautiful  mosaic  decorations 
in  the  memorial  chapel  at  Windsor 
Castle  J  he  is,  perhaps,  the  first  Uving 
artist  in  this  kind  of  work ;  his  estab- 
lishment is  in  the  Campo  di  San  Vito, 
on  the  Q-rand  Canal,  near  the  ch.  of 
La  Salute. 

Protestant  Divine  Service.  The  ser- 
vice of  the  Church  of  England  every 
Sunday,  at  11  J,  in  the  Palazzo  Civran, 
No.  5751,  S.  Giovanni  Crisostomo ;  in 
German,  at  12^,  in  the  Scuola  del 
Angelo  Custode,  Campo  SS.  ApostoU. 

"  The  celebrated  name  of  Venice,  or 
Venetia,  was  formerly  diffused  over  a 
large  and  fertile  province  of  Italy,  from 
the  confines  of  Pannonia  to  the  river 
Addua,  and  from  the  Po  to  the  Bhetian 
and  Julian  Alps."  Venetia  was  divided 
into  Prima  and  Secunda,  of  which  the 
first  appUed  to  ahe  mainland,  and  the 
second  to  the  islands  and  lagunes.  In 
the  first,  "  before  the  irruption  of  the 
Barbarians,  50  Ven^ian  cities  flou- 
rished in  peace  and  prosperity :  Aquileia 
was  placed  in  the  most  conspicuous 
station:  but  the  ancient  dignity  of 
Padua  was  supported  by  agriculture 
and  manufactures." — Gibbon.  Venetia 
Secunda,  placed  in  the  midst  of  canals 
at  the  mouth  of  several  rivers,  was 
occupied  in  fisheries,  salt-works,  and 
commerce. 

Venice  owes  its  existence  as  a  city  to 
the  fugitives  who,  on  the  invasion  of 
Italy  by  Attila,  sought  safety,  after  the 
faU  of  Aquileia,    from  the   sword   of 


362 


Houte  31, —  Venice — Lagooiis — Bridges. 


Sect.  IV. 


the  Huns,  among  the  neighbouring 
islands.  "At  the  extremity  of  the  Gulf, 
where  the  Hadriatic  feebly  imitates  the 
tides  of  the  ocean,  near  a  hundred  small 
islands  are  separated  by  shallow  water 
from  the  continent,  and  protected  from 
the  waves  by  several  long  slips  of  land, 
which  admit  the  entrance  of  vessels 
through  some  secret  and  narrow  chan- 
nels."— Gibbon.  This  natural  break- 
water, or  aggere^  as  it  is  termed,  extend- 
ing nearly  80  miles  &om  the  mouth 
of  the  Piave  to  Brondolo,  has  been 
formed  by  the  deposit  brought  down 
by  the  rivers  for  ages,  and  not  arrested 
tUl  it  meets  the  sea,  where  it  has 
raised  itself  into  impregnable  ramparts 
(Littorali)  against  the  inroads  of  the 
waves. 

Between  the  Piave  and  the  Adige  6 
channels  admit  a  piissage  from  the  Adri- 
atic into  the  Lagune.  Of  these  the  most 
northern  is  the  Porto  di  tre  Porti,  navi- 
gable only  by  the  very  smallest  craft. 
The  island  of  San  Erasmo  intervenes 
between  this  and  the  second  opening, 
bearing  the  name  of  the  saint  just  men- 
tioned. The  Porto  di  San  Nicolo  del 
Lido,  a  third  channel,  was  formerly  the 
most  important,  and  might  be  called 
especially  the  Port  of  Venice :  it  is  still 
much  frequented  by  small  vessels  and 
the  steamers  from  Trieste.  South  of 
this  is  the  island  of  Lido,  and  the 
long  sandy  Littorale  of  Malamocco, 
extending  for  nearly  2  leagues,  form  an 
outwork  in  front  of  the  city,  and  are 
separated  from  the  Littorale  of  Pe- 
lestrina  by  the  Porto  di  Malamocco, 
at  present  the  deepest  channel  into  the 
Lagunes.  At  the  southern  extremity  of 
Pelestrir.a  opens  the  Porto  di  Chioggia, 
taking  its  name  from  the  town  to  which 
it  leads,  between  which  and  the  Porto 
di  Brondolo,  where  the  Brenta  enters 
the  sea,  is  the  irregular  island  or 
lAttorale  of  Sotto  Marina ;  inside 
of  this  band  is  an  extensive  area  of 
water  of  inconsiderable  depth,  navi- 
gable only  for  vessels  of  very  slight 
draught,  except  where  channels  have 
been  formed  naturally  by  rivers  which 
empty  themselves  into  it,  maintained 
by  artificial  means.     In  this  expanse 


(the  Laguna  or  Lagoon)  are  several 
small  islands,  the  largest  of  which,  called 
Isola  de  Rialto  (which  is  abbreviated 
from  Mivo  alto — the  deep  stream),  had 
long  served  as  a  port  to  Padua,  and  a 
few  buildings  for  naval  purposes  had 
been  constructed  upon  it.  The  fall  of 
Aquileia,  and  the  self  -  banishinent  of 
the  neighbom'ing  inliabitants  of  Con- 
cordia —  Opitergium,  now  Oderzo  — 
Altinum,  AlUno  —  and  of  Patavium, 
Padua  —  occurred  in  the  year  452  of 
our  era :  but  as  early  as  421  a  church 
dedicated  to  St.  James  had  been  erected 
on  the  island  of  Bialto,  and  a  decree 
had  issued  from  Padua  for  forming  a 
town  on  it,  and  collecting  there  the 
straggling  inhabitants  of  the  neighbour- 
ing island,  under  the  government  of 
annual  magistrates  with  the  title  of  con- 
suls. Sabellico  has  preserved  a  tra- 
dition that  the  earliest  buildings  of  this 
town  were  raised  on  the  very  spot  now 
occupied  by  the  cathedral  of  St  Mark, 
and  that  the  first  foimdations  were  laid 
on  the  25th  March. 

Venice  is  built  upon  72  islands  or 
shoals,  the  foundations  for  the  build- 
ings being  formed  with  piles  and  stone. 
It  is  divided  into  two  unequal  portions 
by  the  Canalazzo,  or  grand  canal,  whose 
course  through  the  city  is  in  the  form 
of  an  S,  and  is  intersected  in  all  direc- 
tions by  146  smaller  canals,  crossed  by 
306  bridges.  These  bridges  are  fre- 
quent, and,  being  steep,  are  cut  into 
easy  steps.  Three  bridges  only  cross 
the  Grand  Canal :  that  of  the  Rialto, 
in  stone,  is  the  most  celebrated ;  the 
other  two  in  iron — one  between  the 
Campo  di  S.  Stefano  and  the  Accademia 
delle  Belle  Arti,  and  the  other  opposite 
to  the  Railway  Station. 

The  smaller  bridges  are  so  numerous, 
and  so  well  placed,  that  there  is  no  part 
of  the  city — that  is  to  say,  no  house — 
which  cannot  be  walked  to ;  but  many 
of  the  finest  buildings,  as  on  the  Canal 
Grande,  can  only  be  seen  from  the 
water,  out  of  which  they  rise.  A  gon- 
dola is  therefore  aU  but  indispensable 
to  the  stranger. 

"  The  small  canals,  or  rii,  as  they  are 
termed,    which  are  bestrid  by  these 


Ven.  Prov.     Route  31. —  Venice — Canals — Dialect — Trade, 


363 


bridges,  are  the  water-streets  of  Venice; 
but  there  is  no  part  of  either  of  the  two 
divisions  to  which  you  may  not  also  go 
by  land,  through  narrow  passages  called 
calli.  There  are,  besides,  several  small 
squares,  entitled  campi. 

"The  most  considerable  houses  of 
Yenice  have  each  a  door  opening  in- 
land, and  another  towards  the  canal ; 
but  man^,  being  built  in  the  interior 
of  these  shoals,  can  have  no  immediate 
access  by  water.  This  is  a  considerable 
inconvenience,  as  it  limits  the  use  and 
comfort  of  a  gondola. 

"There  is  sometimes  a  wharf  or  a 
footway  along  the  banks  of  the  rii 
(called  a  W»a),  and  usually  secured  by 
a  parapet,  bored  for  a  wicket ;  but  the 
rii  oftener  extend  from  house  to  house, 
and  these  then  consequently  rise  on 
either  side  from  out  of  the  water.  The 
same  may  be  said  of  the  Grand  Canal 
as  of  the  Hi,  though  here  and  there  is 
a  small  extent  of  terrace  or  riva,  in 
front  of  the  houses." — Letters  from  the 
North  of  Italy. 

The  larger  and  wider  Rive  are  called 
JFondamenti. 

As  a  general  description  of  Venice, 

that  of  Bogers  is  pleasing,  and  was 

correct,  but  the  railroad  has  superseded 

the  passage  from  the  mainland  in  a 

gondola,  and,  though  it  may  jar  with 

the  prejudices  of  some,  presents  a  scene 

not  less  singular. 

"  There  is  a  glorious  city  in  the  sea. 

The  sea  is  in  the  broad,  tlie  narrow  streets, 

Ebbing  and  flowinfjr ;  and  tlie  salt  sea-weed 

Clings  to  the  marble  of  lier  palaces. 

No  track  of  men,  no  footsteps  to  and  fro, 

Lead  to  her  gates.    The  path  lies  o'er  the  sea, 

Invincible ;  and  from  the  land  we  went. 

As  to  a  floating  city — steering  in, 

And  gliding  up  her  streets,  as  in  a  dream, 

So  smoothly,  silently — by  many  a  dome, 

Mosque-like,  and  many  a  stately  portico. 

The  statues  ranged  along  an  azure  sky ; 

By  many  a  pile,  in  more  than  eastern  pride. 

Of  old  the  residence  of  merchant>kings ; 

The  fronts  of  some,  tho'Time  had  shattered 

them. 
Still  glowing  with  the  richest  hues  of  art, 
As  though  the  wealth  witliin  them  had  run 

o'er." 

The  Venetians  have  laid  aside  the 
peculiarities  of  dress  which  m^irked 
their  nationality  in  their  days  of  inde- 
pendence.    The  national  cbesses,  the 


red  Tabarro  of  the  men  and  the  black 
Zendale  of  the  women,  so  often  men- 
tioned in  Groldoni's  plays,  have  entirely 
disappeared.  The  gondolas  still  retain 
unchanged  their  black  funereal  appear- 
ance. Conjurors,  storytellers  and 
Punch,  may  be  often  seen  on  the  Riva 
dei  Schiavoni. 

"The  Venetian  dialect,  or  rather 
language,  was  formerly  so  much  che- 
rished as  a  token  of  nationality,  that 
the  speakers  in  the  Senate  were  com- 
pelled to  employ  it  to  the  exclusion  of 
the  Tuscan  or  Volgare,  It  possesses 
great  softness  and  pleasantness  of  sound, 
and  bears  somewhat  the  same  relation 
to  the  Volgare  that  the  Portuguese 
does  to  the  Castihan ;  the  consonants 
are  elided,  and  the  whole  softened 
down :  as  in  JPadre,  J^are ;  Mad/re , 
Mare;  FigliOy  Fio ;  Casa,  Ca ;  and 
some  have  regretted  that  it  did  not 
prevail  instead  of  its  more  fortunate 
sister.  It  is  softer  and  more  winning 
than  the  Tuscan,  though  it  falls  far 
beneath  it  in  dignity  and  force.  The 
judgment,  however,  of  a  foreigner  is  of 
little  weight.  It  has  had  •better  testi- 
monies borne  to  its  merits  by  Bettinelli, 
and  a  host  of  Italian  writers  who  may 
naturally  be  supposed  to  have  had  a 
nicer  and  more  discriminating  sense  of 
its  perfections.  In  all  the  lighter  and 
gayer  walks  of  poetry  it  is  delightful ; 
and  the  Venetian  verse  is,  compared 
with  the  verse  of  other  nations,  very 
much  what  Venetian  painting  is  as  to 
that  of  the  rest  of  Europe." — Hose's 
Letters, 

The  manufactures  of  Venice  are  the 
glass-works,  in  which  are  produced 
magnificent  mirrors,  artificial  pearls, 
gems,  coloured  beads,  &c.,  employing 
about  4500  people ;  the  women  and 
children  are  employed  in  the  various 
manufactures — beads,  jewellery,  gold 
and  silver  chains,  gold  and  silver 
stufis,  silks,  laces,  and  velvets ;  soap, 
earthenware,  wax  and  spermaceti 
candles,  sugar  refineries,  &c.  Printing 
is  extensively  carried  on.  Ship  and 
boat  building  to  a  considerable  extent  at 
Venice  and  Chioggia.  The  inhabitants 
are  not,  however,  fully  employed  ashore, 


364         Itoute  31. —  Venice — Fori — Piazza  di  San  Marco.    Sect.  IV. 


and  a  great  number  depend  on  fishing 
and  on  navigating  the  vessels  belonging 
to  the  port.  GPhe  latter,  exclusive  of 
fishing-boats,  amount  to  about  30,000 
tons  of  shipping,  employed  chiefly  in 
the  coasting  trade. 

The  entrances  to  the  port  of  Yenice 
are  intricate ;  the  best  ship  entrance  is 
by  the  Pass  of  Malamocco,  by  which 
vessels  drawing  from  18  to  20  fb.  can 
enter  easily  since  the  prolongation 
of  its  two  moles,  outside  of  which, 
in  the  Gul^  there  is  good  holding 
ground.  It  is  absolutely  necessary  to 
have  a  pilot  to  enter.  Although  not 
actually  on  the  decline,  its  trade  has 
suffered  greatly  from  the  increasing 
prosperity  of  Trieste,  which  has  met 
more  favour  and  encouragement  from 
the  Austrian  government  than  the 
Queen  of  the  Adriatic.  The  railroad 
from  Milan,  and  the  re-establishment 
of  the  freedom  of  its  port,  wiU  pro- 
bably increase  the  trade,  but  not  so  far 
as  to  raise  its  commerce  and  navigation 
to  that  of  a  place  of  first-rate  im- 
portance. The  direct  trade  between 
England  and  Yenice  consists  in  some 
cargoes  of  fish,  in  large  quantities  of 
coal  and  iron,  and  a  few  of  manu- 
factured goods,  although  a  great  pro- 
portion of  the  latter  are  transhipped 
from  Trieste. 

Venice  is  a  free  port,  and  most  of 
the  articles  for  the  use  of  the  citizens 
are  admitted  duty  free.  There  are, 
however,  small  dues  levied  to  raise 
funds  to  defray  the  municipal  expenses. 
Groods  of  various  descriptions  are  ex- 
ported from  Yenice,  and  carried  chiefly 
by  contraband  into  the  Itahan  pro- 
vinces. There  is  also  a  considerable 
trade  carried  on  between  Yenice  and 
Dalmatia,  Albania,  and  parts  of  Greece. 
The  Imperial  Dockyard,  formerly  the 
celebrated  arsenal  of  the  Bepublic,  has 
much  fallen  off  in  importance  since  the 
establishment  by  the  Austrian  Govern- 
ment of  its  naval  stations  at  Trieste,  and 
especially  at  Pola,  on  the  coast  of  Istria. 

Within  a  few  years  very  extensive 
moles  have  been  formed,  with  stone 
brought  from  Istria,  near  the  Mala- 
mocco  Pass,  in  order  that  by  narrowing 


the  waterway  at  ebb-tide  the  scour  of 
the  water  flowing  through,  might  deepen 
the  channel.  The  plan  has  been  at- 
tended with  great  success.  Yessels 
drawing  20  ft.  now  enter  by  this  pas- 
sage without  difficulty,  and  without 
waiting  for  springtides.  There  is  a 
regular  tide  of  the  Lagoon,  the  rise  and 
fall  at  Yenice  being  between  2  and  3 
ft.,  so  that  at  low  water  the  Lligoon^in 
some  directions  appears  a  vast  expanse 
of  mud.  This  is  particularly  observable 
on  looking  westward  from  the  neigh- 
boitthood  of  the  bridge  which  crosses 
the  canal  leading  to  the  Arsenal,  or 
from  the  top  of  the  tower  of  S.  Marco; 
the  Lagoon  under  these  circumstances 
offe™  a  y«r,r  Btrange  aspect. 

It  is  highly  probable  that  the  ori- 
ginal depth  of  the  Adriatic  was  greater 
than  now.  At  present  its  greatest  be- 
tween the  coast  of  Dalmatia  and  the 
mouths  of  the  Po  is  22  fathoms,  and  a 
large  part  of  the  Gulf  of  Trieste,  and 
the  Adriatic  opposite  Yenice,  is  less 
than  12  fisithoms  deep.  This  decrease 
is  caused  by  the  deposits  brought  down 
by  the  numerous  large  rivers  which^ 
charged  with  alluvial  matter,  empty 
themselves  into  the  N,  extremity  of 
the  gulf. 

The  centre  of  business  and  amuse- 
ment at  Yenice,  and  the  spot  which  a 
traveller  usually  first  visits  and  most 
often  retiunB  to,  is  the  Piazza  di  S» 
Mareo,  With  this  it  will  be  therefore 
better  to  commence  our  description  of 
the  city. 

We  will  suppose  the  traveller  stand- 
ing in  front  of  the  church,  and  looking 
towards  it. 

On  the  E.  side  stands  the  basilica 
of  St.  Mark.  On  the  N.  or  l.-hand 
side  is  the  long  line  of  buildings 
called  the  JProcv/ratie  VeccMe  and  the 
Torre  delV  Orologio.  On  the  S.  side, 
and  opposite,  are  the  Procuratie 
Nuove  and  the  Libreria  Vecchia, 
Towards  the  W.  the  Piazza  formerly 
extended  only  as  far  as  a  mark  in  red 
marble  let  into  the  pavement,  near 
the  16th  arch  of  the  Procuratie 
Nuove,  counting  from  the  angle  be- 
hind the  campanile.     This  red  mark 


Ven.  ProV.        Moute  31. —  Venice — Sasilica  of  San  Marco.  365 


indicates  the  position  of  a  canal,  on  the 
bank  of  which  formerly  stood  the 
Chwrch  of  St.  G-endniano,  In  the  12th 
centy.  the  canal  was  filled  up,  and 
during  the  17th  the  ch.  pulled  down 
to  afford  space  for  enlarging  the  Im- 
perial palace  and  the  Piazza.  The 
length  of  this  Piazza  is  576  ft. ;  its 
greatest  width,  i.  e.  fix)m  the  comer 
close  to  the  campanile  to  the  opposite 
side,  269  ft. ;  its  least  width,  which  is 
at  the  W.  end,  185  ft. 

At  right  angles  with  the  Piazza,  at 
its  eastern  end,  is  the  Piazzetta,  ex- 
tending from  near  the  base  of  the 
campanile  to  the  Molo  or  quay  formed 
along  the  edge  of  the  canal,  from  the 
newly-formed  promenade  behind  the 
viceregal  residence  to  the  extremity 
of  the  southern  front  of  the  Doge's 
palace.  On  the  W.  side  of  the  Pi- 
azzetta  stands  the  Libreria  VeccMa, 
and  on  the  E.  the  Ducal  palace ;  and 
on  the  Molo,  near  the  southern  end  of 
the  Piazzetta,  the  two  famous  granite 
columns,  one  surmoimted  by  the  bronze 
liion  of  St.  Mark,  the  other  by  the 
statue  of  St.  Theodore,  the  Protector 
of  the  Republic. 

A  large  flock  of  pigeons  will  always 
be  seen  frequenting  the  Piazza  and  the 
neighbouring  buildings.  They  have 
^existed  here  so  long  that  their  origin 
is  forgotten ;  various  explanations  have 
been  offered,  too  long  and  too  im- 
satisfactory  to  insert,  accounting  for 
their  existence,  and  for  their  having 
been  fed  at  the  expense  of  the  govern- 
ment. They  are  protected  by  the 
almost  superstitious  care,  and  affection 
of  the  Venetian  people;  they  are  fed  at 
two  o'clock,  the  outlay  being  defrayed 
by  a  bequest  from  a  noble  lady  j  and 
it  is  a  cinious  sight  to  see  them  arrive 
from  every  side  on  the  striking  of  that 
hour  by  the  great  clock  of  the  Torre 
dell'  Orologio. 

San  Marco.  This  church  did  not 
become  the  cathedral  until  the  year 
1807,  when  the  patriarchal  seat  was 
removed  to  it  from  San  Pietro  di 
Castello.  Until  then  it  was  the  chapel 
attached  to  the  Ducal  Palace,  foiuided 
in  the  year  828,  by  the  Doge  Ct^ius- 


tuiiani  Partecipiazio,  for  the  purpose 
of  receiving  the  relics  of  St.  Mark, 
which  had  been  translated,  or  rather, 
in  plain  English,  stolen  from  Alex- 
andria, by  Bono,  the  "Tribune"  of 
Malamocco,  and  JRtistico  of  Torcello. 
These  remains  were  deposited  in  the 
Chapel  of  St.  Theodore:  but  the 
popular  veneration  was  transferred, 
apparently  without  hesitation,  from  St. 
Theodore  to  the  Evangelist,  whose  sym- 
bol became  the  emblem,  and  almost  the 
palladium,  of  the  republic;  and  the 
too  humble  Church  of  Narses  was  de- 
molished to  make  room  for  the  more 
splendid  edifice  of  the  newly  chosen 
protector.  Griustiniani  died,  leaving 
the  church  imfinished ;  but  it  was  com- 
pleted by  his  heirs,  and  stood  until 
destroyed  in  the  conflagration  wliich 
terminated  the  life  and  reign  of  Pietro 
Candiano  IV.  in.  976. 

Pietro  Orseolo  I.,  the  successor  of 
Candiano,  was  the  founder  of  the  pre- 
sent edifice.  The  foundations  were 
laid  in  977 ;  but  nearly  one  himdi*ed 
years  elapsed  before  the  walls  were  com- 
pleted, under  the  reign  of  Domenico 
Contarini,  1043.  Many  precious  adorn- 
ments, and  in  particular  the  mosaics, 
were  added  by  the  Doge  Domenico 
Salvo,  1071  ;  and  it  was  not  conse- 
crated till  the  time  of  Ordelafo  Falier, 
on  the  4th  October,  1111. 

Although  it  has  been  disputed  to 
which  of  the  several  eras  of  construc- 
tion the  present  Basilica  is  to  bo 
ascribed,  and  whether  or  not  it  is  to  be 
considered  as  a  specimen  of  Byzantino 
art,  it  may  be  without  much  doubt 
said  that  the  original  design  has  un- 
dergone little  alteration,  and  that  it 
was  due  to  Gbeek  architects,  or  to 
artists  who  had  studied  in  the  school 
of  Constantinople  and  the  East. 

"The  plan  of  St.  Mark's,  hke  that 
of  Santa  Sophia,  is  a  Greek  cross,  with 
the  addition  of  spaciovis  porticos.  The 
centre  of  the  building  is  covered  with  a 
dome,  and  over  the  centre  of  each  of 
the  arms  of  the  cross  rises  a  smaller 
cupola.  All  the  remaining  parts  of 
the  building  are  covered  with  vaults,  in 
constructing  wliich  the  Greeks  had  be- 
come expert,  and  which  are  much  to  be 


366 


Eoute  31. —  Venice — Cathedral  of  San  Marco.         Sect.  IV 


preferred  to  the  wooden  roofs  of  the  old 
Basilicas. 

"  Colonnades  and  round  arches  sepa- 
rate the  nare  from  the  aisles  in  each 
of  the  four  compartments,  and  support 
galleries  above.  The  capitals  of  the 
pillars  are  of  exquisite  foliage,  in  some 
cases,  as  though  blo^vn  about  by  the 
wind,  and  are  free  from  the  imagei^ 
which  at  that  time  abounded  in  other 
churches  of  Italy.  It  is  computed  that 
in  the  decoration  of  this  building,  with- 
out and  within,  above  500  pillars  are 
emj)loyed.  The  pillars  are  all  of 
marble,  and  were  chiefly  brought  from 
Q-reece,  and  other  parts  of  the  Levant. 
Whilst  St.  Mark's  was  building,  every 
vessel  that  cleared  out  of  Venice  for  the 
East  was  obliged  to  bring  back  pillars 
and  marbles  for  the  work  in  which 
the  republic  took  so  general  an  interest. 

"The  defect  of  the  interior  of  St. 
Mark's  is,  that  it  is  not  sufficiently  hght. 
The  windows  are  few  in  proportion  to 
the  size  of  the  building.  Rich,  there- 
fore, as  the  interior  is,  it  is  gloomy  to 
a  fault,  in  spite  of  the  brilliant  rays  of 
a  southern  sun." — Gaily  Knight. 

In  the  fa9ade  are  two  rows  of  co- 
lumns of  vert-antique,  porphyry,  ser- 
pentine, and  other  marbles,  some  with 
Armenian  and  Syriac  inscriptions 
deeply  engraven,  and  showing  by  their 
variety  of  style  and  dimensions  that 
they  were  brought  from  older  build- 
ings. Several  tablets  of  ancient  sculp- 
ture are  inserted  in  the  outer  walls. 
They  are  of  various  ages  and  nations. 
One  on  the  N.  side,  in  the  small  square 
of  the  lions,  represents  Proserpine,  or 
Ceres,  holding  a  torch  in  either  hand, 
and  in  a  chariot  drawn  by  two  dragons, 
and  of  which  a  duplicate  will  be  found 
at  San  Donino,  near  Parma.  Cicognara 
judged  it  to  be  of  Persian  origm.  In 
the  opposite  comer,  towards  the  Ducal 
palace,  is  inserted  a  remarkable  group 
of  four  full-length  figures,  in  red  por- 
phyry, striking  from  their  peculiar 
colour,  and  from  then*  position.  It  is 
probably  of  the  10th  or  11th  centy. ; 
but  the  absence  of  any  inscription,  as 
well  as  of  all  knowledge  of  its  origin, 
forbids  further  conjectures  ;  the  tradi- 
tion is  that  ifc  had  been  brought  from 


Acre,  and  ornamented  the  pedestal 
of  an  equestrian  statue.  Five  large 
mosaics  fill  the  recesses  over  the  door- 
ways. Beginning  on  the  rt.  of  the 
spectator,  the  subject  of  the  first  and 
second  is  the  removal  of  the  body 
of  St.  Mark  from  the  tomb  at  Alex- 
andria, executed  in  1650,  from  the  de- 
signs of  JPietro  Vecchio  :  of  the  next, 
the  Last  Judgment,  executed  by  Liborio 
Salandri :  the  following  recess  contains 
the  Venetian  Magistnites  venerating 
the  body  of  St.  Mark,  designed  by 
Sebn.  Rizzi^  in  1728 :  the  last  recess 
contains  the  most  ancient  of  these  mo- 
saics, a  work  probably  of  the  l^th  cent., 
representing  the  church  of  St.  Mark. 
Four  mosaics  occupy  the  semicircular 
gables  above,  beginning  with  that  which 
is  above  the  one  last  mentioned  in  the 
lower  row :  they  represent  the  Taking 
down  from  the  Cross,  the  Descent  into 
Hades,  the  Resurrection,  and  the 
Ascension,  by  Luigi  Gaetano,  1617, 
from  the  drawings  of  Maffeo  Verona. 
The  archivolts  of  the  centre  doorway, 
and  of  the  portal  which  encircles  it, 
are  embossed  with  Prophets  and  Evan- 
gehsts,  allegorical  representations  of 
the  months  of  the  year,  trades  and 
labours ;  to  which,  within  and  without, 
must  be  added  several  of  those  mystical 
figures  which  have  been  so  often  de- 
scribed, of  lions  and  other  animals  de> 
vouring  or  prostrating  human  victims. 
The  celebrated  bronze  horses^  formerly 
gilt,  stand  over  the  central  portal  of  the 
vestibule,  in  a  situation  wliich  renders 
it  difficult  to  see  them  well  either  from 
below  or  from  the  level  on  which 
they  are  placed.  They  were  brought 
from  the  Hippodrome  at  Constanti- 
nople, being  part  of  the  share  of  the  Ve- 
netians in  the  plunder  when  that  city 
was  taken  by  the  Crusaders  in  the 
fourth  crusade.  They  were  removed 
to  Paris  for  a  short  time,  but  brought 
back  in  1815.  Antiquaries  hesitate 
concerning  the  date  and  even  the  coun- 
try of  these  horses ;  for  by  some  they 
have  been  assigned  to  the  Roman 
period,  and  to  the  age  of  Nero  j  by 
others  to  the  Grreeks  of  Chios,  and  to 
the  school  of  Lysippus.  According  to 
the  most  generally  received  opinion^ 


Vex.  Peov.     Route  31. —  Verdce — Cathedral  of  San  Marco. 


367 


that  of  Cicognara,  Augustus  brought 
them  from.  Alexandria,  after  his  vic- 
tory over  M.  Antony,  and  erected 
them  on  a  triumphal  arch  at  Kome : 
they  were  successively  removed  by 
Nero,  Domitian,  Trajan,  and  Con- 
stantine,  to  arches  of  their  own ; 
and  in  each  of  these  positions  it 
is  believed  that  they  were  attached 
to  a  chariot.  Constantine  in  the  end 
transferred  them  to  his  new  capital. — 
A  recent  G^reek  writer,  Mutoxidi,  has 
endeavoured  to  prove  that  they  were 
cast  at  Chios,  and  supposes  they  were 
removed  to  Constantinople  by  Theo- 
dosius.  They  are  not  in  the  highest 
style  of  art,  and  Cicognara  says  that 
the  casting  of  them  was  so  ill  managed 
that  the  artist  was  compelled  to  finish 
them  up  by  many  solderings;  the 
weight  of  each  horse  is  1932  lbs. 

The  five  outer  doors  of  the  vesti- 
bule are  of  bronze  :  on  that  next  to  the 
central  one,  on  the  1.  hand,  is  an  in- 
scription, showing  that  it  was  exe- 
cuted in  the  year  1300,  by  JSertucciOj 
a  Venetian  goldsmith. 

Upon  entering  the  vestibule,  which 
extends  along  the  whole  front ;  by  the 
central  portal,  there  is  seen  in  the  pave- 
ment a  lozenge  of  white  and  red  marble, 
marking  the  spot  where  Pope  Alex- 
ander III.  and  the  Emperor  Frederic 
JBarbarossa  were,  on  the  23rd  July, 
1177,  reconciled,  through  the  inter- 
vention of  the  Venetian  repubhc.  The 
Pope,  it  is  said,  but  on  very  doubt- 
ful authority,  placed  his  foot  upon 
the  head  of  the  prostrate  Emperor, 
repeating  the  words  of  the  Psahn, 
**  Thou  shalt  tread  upon  the  lion  and 
the  adder."  This  is  the  story  of  the 
Church- writers  ;  but  the  reconciliation 
of  the  Emperor  is  described  by  the 
cotemporary  Archbishop  of  Salerno  as 
of  a  much  less  humiliating  character 
for  the  imperial  penitent. 

The  vaulting  of  the  vestibule  is 
covered  with  mosaics,  and  around  the 
walls  are  numerous  colimins  of  pre- 
cious marbles,  brought  from  the  East. 
Among  the  mosaics  may  be  noticed 
St.  Mark,  in  pontifical  robes,  over  the 
centre  door  of  the   church.     It  was 


executed  in  1545  by  Francesco  and 
Valerio  Zuccato,  from  the  designs  of 
Titian.  Opposite  to  this  is  the  Cru- 
cifixion, by  the  brothers  Zuccati,  in 
1549.  The  Eesurrection  of  Lazarus, 
the  Annunciation,  the  Four  Evange- 
lists, the  Eight  Prophets,  the  Angels 
and  Doctors  in  the  frieze,  are  also  by 
the  Zuccati.  Out  of  this  vestibule 
opens,  on  the  rt.  hand,  the  Zeno  Cha^ely 
in  which  is  the  splendid  tomb  of  Car- 
dinal Zeno,  cast  in  1505-15,  from  the 
designs  of  Antonio  Lomhardo  and  Ales' 
sandro  Leopardi.  The  sculptures  on 
the  altar  are  very  elaborate,  especially 
the  Virgin  and  the  Baptist. 

Of  the  three  doors  which  open  from 
the  vestibule  into  the  church,  the  centre 
one,  and  that  on  the  1.  ot  it,  are  Ve- 
netian works  executed  between  1100 
and  1112.  That  on  the  rt.  is  said 
to  be  of  Byzantine  workmansliip,  and 
to  have  been  carried  off  from  S.  Sofia 
at  Constantinople  in  1203.  The  larger 
or  central  one  is  in  the  same  style, 
having  4S  compartments,  with  inlaid 
figures  in  silver.  The  8  marble  co- 
lumns on  each  side  of  this  entrance 
were  brought  from  Constantinople  in 
1205.  In  the  N.  corridor  is  the  monu- 
ment of  Doge  Marino  Morosini,  with 
a  more  ancient  bas-relief  of  Christ 
between  the  12  Apostles.  The  sepul- 
chral urn  at  the  N.  end  of  the  vestibule 
contains  the  remains  of  Doge  B.  G^ra- 
denigo,  who  died  in  1342. 

The  interior  of  the  Basilica  is  very 
rich:  the  walls  and  columns  are  of 
precious  marbles,  the  vaulting  is 
covered  with  mosaics  upon  a  gold 
ground,  and  the  pavement  of  tes- 
sellated marble.  This  marqueterie 
in  marble,  called  vermiculato,  is  not 
only  remarkable  for  the  beauty  and 
richness  of  the  patterns,  but  for  the 
symbols  and  allegories  supposed  to  be 
contained  in  the  various  devices.  The 
following  are  given  as  instances : — The 
round,  well-fed,  sleek  Lion  on  the  sea, 
and  the  lean,  meagre  Lion  on  the  land, 
denoted  what  woiild  be  the  fate  of  Ve- 
nice if  she  deserted  the  profits  of  her 
maritime  commerce  for  the  vainglories 
of  territorial  conquest.     Two  cocks  car- 


368 


MoiUe  31, —  Venice — Cathedral  of  San  Marco,        Sect.  IV. 


rying  off  a  fox  indicate  the  conquest  and 
capture  of  ttie  crafty  Ludovico  Sforza 
by  the  two  Gallic  monarchs  Charles 
VII.  and  Louis  XII.  It  would  far 
exceed  the  limits  of  this  work  to  ent«r 
into  a  detail  of  the  mosaics  in  San 
Marco :  we  shall  only  therefore  notice 
a  few  of  the  most  remarkable.  Over 
the  central  door  is  a  mosaic  of  tlie 
11th  century,  the  Virgin  and  St.  Mark. 
Entering  by  this  door,  on  the  rt.  hand 
is  a  porphyry  basin  for  holy  water; 
the  base  supporting  which  is  an  ancient 
Greek  altar,  with  bas-reliefe  of  dolphins, 
children,  &c.  Further  on  the  rt.  is  the 
JBoftisterify  adorned  with  marbles,  bas- 
relief  and  mosaics,  all  executed  about 
the  14th  centy.  In  the  middle  is  a  basin, 
with  a  bronze  cover  adorned  with  low 
reliefs  by  Tiziano  Minio  and  Desiderio 
da  Firenze,  pupils  of  San60vino,in  1545 ; 
on  the  top  is  a  statue  in  bronze  of  St. 
John  the  Baptist,  by  Francesco  Se- 
gala,  in  1565.  Behind  the  altar  are 
reliefs  of  the  14th  centy.,  representing 
the  Baptism  in  the  Jordan,  St.  George, 
and  St.  Theodore.  The  altar-table, 
behind  the  modem  altar,  is  formed  of 
a  massive  granite  slab  brought  firom 
Tyre  in  1126,  and  upon  which  our 
Saviour  is  said  to  have  stood  when  he 
preached  to  the  inhabitants  of  that  city. 
Against  the  wall  is  the  monument  of 
Doge  Henry  Bandolo,  who  died  in 
1354.  He  was  the  last  doge  who  was 
buried  in  St.  Mark's,  the  senate  having 
decreed  that  none  should  in  future  be 
interred  here.  Dandolo,  the  fourth  doge 
of  his  name,  was  the  friend  of  Petrarch, 
the  first  historian  of  Venice,  and  de- 
scended from  the  celebrated  blind  hero 
of  the  crusades,  who,  elected  doge  in 
1192,  at  the  age  of  45,  commanded  at 
the  siege  of  Constantinople  in  his  97th 
year.  The  other  tomb,  in  a  Gothic 
style,  is  of  Doge  Soranzo  (ob.  1328). 
The  mosaics  of  the  Crucifixion,  over  the 
altar,  and  representing  several  modes  of 
baptism  by  the  12apostleB,  on  the  cupola 
over  the  font,  are  curious  as  works  of 
art,  and  in  excellent  preservation. 

Returning  into  the  church :  near  a 
pilaster  of  the  N.  aisle  is  the  chapel  of 
the  Holy  Cross,  a  small  octagonal  tri- 


bune supported  by  six  columns;  the 
one  nearest  the  altar  on  the  right  is  of 
a  very  rare  variety  of  black  and  white 
Syenite. 

In  the  S.  transept  is  the  Chapel 
of  the  Madonna  de*  Mascoli,  of 
which  the  marble  altar,  as  well  as  the 
statues  of  the  Madonna,  of  St.  Mark, 
and  St.  John  are  works  of  the  15th 
centy. ;  the  angels  in  front  are  of  a 
later  date.  The  mosaics  in  this  chapel 
are  by  Michele  Giambono,  in  1430; 
they  represent  the  history  of  the  Virgin. 
This  artist  was  one  of  the  first  who 
abandoned  the  stiff  and  dry  manner 
of  his  predecessors  in  this  branch  of  art. 

On  the  wall  above  the  entrance  to 
the  chapel  of  8t.  Isidore  (founded  in 
1550  to  receive  tlie  body  of  the  saint, 
brought  from  the  island  of  Schio),  and 
to  the  rt.  of  that  of  the  Madonna  de' 
Mascoli,  is  a  curious  mosaic  of  the 
middle  of  the  16th  centy.,  representing 
the  genealogical  tree  of  the  Virgin. 

The  choir  and  its  divisions  rise  in 
triple  ascent.  It  is  parted  from  the 
nave  by  a  rich  screen,  after  the  Greek 
fashion,  surmounted  by  fourteen  statues 
executed  by  JacoheUo  and  J^^n>  Paold 
dalle  Massegyte  (1393),  pupils  of  the 
Pisan  school :  the  cross  over  the  centre, 
with  the  statue  of  Christ  in  silver,  is 
by  Marco  Benato  (1594).  The  pres- 
bytery contains  the  high  altar,  standing 
under  a  Baldacchino,  supported  by  four 
columns,  covered  with  bands  of  sculp- 
ture and  Latin  inscriptions,  and  sup- 
posed to  be  of  the  11th  century.  These 
bands,  nine  upon  each  column,  contain 
the  principal  events  and  traditions  of  ^ 
the  Gospel  history,  from  the  Marriage 
of  St.  Aima  to  the  Ascension.  At  the 
sides  of  the  high  altar  are  eight  bronze 
statues — ^the  four  Evangelists  by  8an- 
sovino,  and  the  four  Doctors  of  the 
Church  by  &.  Coffliari.  Behind  the 
high  altar  are  2  Pale  or  altar  fronts. 
The  ianermost  is  not  seen  unless  re- 
quest is  made  for  that  purpose;  an 
exact  copy  of  it  may  be  seen  at  all 
times  behind  the  high  altar.  The 
outer  "Pala,"  in  fourteen  compart- 
ments, by  Messer  Paolo  and  his  sons, 
in  1344,  is  very   interesting,   as  one 


VUN.  Pfiov.       Route  31. —  VerUce — Cathedral  of  S,  Marco. 


369 


of  the  well-determined  (as  to  date) 
specimens  of  Venetian  art,  although 
it  has  been  almost  ruined  bj  suc- 
cessive  restorations.  It  is  more  Greek 
and  stiff  than  contemporary  works  at 
Florence.  This  covers  the  Fala  d^  Oro, 
or  Icons  Bisantina^  one  of  the  most 
remarkable  specimens  now  existing  of 
Byzantine  art,  made  in  976  at  Con- 
stantinople by  order  of  Doge  Pietro 
Orseolo ;  but  repaired  under  the  Doges 
Ordelafo  Falier  1105,  Pietro  Zani 
1209,  and  Andrea  Dandolo  1345.  By 
all  these  processes  it  has  gained  in 
splendour,  but  it  has  lost  in  ori- 
ginality. It  exMbits  a  mixture  of 
Byzantine  and  Gothic  styles.  Some  of 
the  inscriptions  are  in  Greek,  some  in 
Latin.  The  material  is  silver  gilt,  en- 
circled with  coarse  gems  and  enamels. 
The  letters  are  in  niello.  The  represen- 
tations of  sacred  personages  and  sub- 
jects are  of  the  usual  description :  some 
are  from  the  legendary  life  of  St.  Mark. 
The  most  curious  are  of  the  Doge  Fa- 
lier and  the  Empress  Irene.  This  Fala 
is  now  arranged  in  2  horizontal  rows 
of  83  panels.  Taken  as  a  whole,  it  is 
inferior  in  workmanship  to  the  gold- 
smith's work  and  enamel  of  Lombardy, 
France,  and  Germany,  at  any  of  the 
periods  to  which  it  belongs.  It  has 
lately  been  thoroughly  cleaned  and  put 
in  order.  Behind  the  high  altar  is 
another,  called  the  Altar  of  the  Holy 
Sacrament,  with  bas-reliefs,  some  of 
which  (Jesus  Christ  and  the  Angels)  are 
by  Sansotdno.  It  stands,  Uke  the  great 
altar,  under  a  canopy,  supported  by  four 
fluted  spiral  pillars,  said  to  have  been 
brought  from  the  Temple  at  Jerusalem. 
Two  are  of  oriental  alabaster. 

By  the  side  of  this  altar  is  the  en- 
trance to  the  sacristy,  closed  by  the 
bronze  door,  upon  which  Sansovino  is 
said  to  have  exercised  his  talents  during 
twenty  years.  The  subjects  of  the  bas- 
reliefs  are  the  Deposition  and  Resur- 
rection of  our  Lord.  In  the  border 
are  introduced  6  small  beads  and  some 
full-length  figures  of  the  prophets  and 
evangehsts,  starting  forward  with  ex- 
ceeding Ufe  and  vivacity.  Three  of 
these  heads  are  portraits — of  Sansovino 
liimself,  of  Titian,  and  of  the  notorious 

N.  J/a^— 1866. 


Pietro  Aretino.  The  expense  was  de- 
frayed by  Federigo  Contarini,  one  of 
the  procurators  of  St.  Mark.  Sanso- 
vino has  authenticated  the  work  by  en- 
graving his  name  on  it. 

The  Sacristy  is  a  noble  apartment, 
and  was  probably  used  also  as  the 
chapterhouse  for  the  canons  of  the 
BasiHca.  The  coved  roof  is  riclily 
covered  with  mosaics.  The  best  are  St. 
George  and  St.  Theodore,  by  the  Zuc' 
cati  after  Tintoretto.  The  presses  and 
seats  are  ornamented  with  intarsia 
work.  Those  by  JVa'  Sehastia/no^  ScM' 
avone,  and  Ferrando  da  Bergamo  are 
considered  as  amongst  the  best  of  this 
species  of  art. 

In  the  S.  transept  a  door  opens 
into  the  Treasury  of  St.  Marhy  situ- 
ated betAveen  the  transept  and  the 
Baptistery,  and  which  is  carefully  kept 
under  lock  and  key,  and  can  only  be 
seen  on  Monday  and  Friday,  from 
12*30  until  2  o'clock,  except  by 
special  permission.  It  is  divided 
into  two  departments,  one  containing 
sacred  rehquiaries,  the  other  objects  of 
art.  This  treasury  became  at  various 
times  very  opulent,  and  formed  a  sort 
of  reserve  fund  on  which  the  state  drew 
in  great  emergencies.  In  1797  most  of 
the  available  articles  were  turned  into 
money,  and  the  valuable  objects  of  art 
which  remain  were  deposited  at  the 
Zecca  or  Mint :  they  have  been  of  late 
years  arranged  here,  and  offer  the 
richest  collection  in  existence  of  an- 
cient Byzantine  jewellery.  The  col- 
lection of  relics  is  extensive,  and  some 
of  the  objects  are  rare,  as  a  bit  of  the 
dress  of  our  Saviour,  a  small  quantity 
of  earth  imbibed  with  his  blood,  a 
fragment  of  the  pillar  to  which  he 
was  bound :  there  is  a  portion  of  the 
genuine  cross,  of  course.  The  rehquiary 
in  which  the  latter  is  enclosed  is  a  fine 
specimen  of  workmanship,  presented  in 
1120  to  Santa  Sophia  at  Constantinople 
by  the  Empress  Irene,  wife  of  Alexis 
Comnenus.  The  episcopal  seat  in  mar- 
ble in  the  treasury  was  at  one  time 
supposed  to  have  been  given  in  the  7th 
centy.  to  the  Patriarch  of  Grado  by 
Heraclius  Emperor  of  the  East,  but 
there  is  little  doubt  that  it  is  of  a  later 


370 


Boute  3 1  .-r-  Vemoe —  Clock- Tower — JProcuratie.         S^ct.  IV. 


period,  probably  of  the  11th.  The 
Champleve  enamels  are  amongst  the 
very  interesting  objects  in  the  Treasury. 
In  front  of  St.  Mark  are  the  3  bronze 
pedestals,  surmounted  by  winged  lions, 
in  which  are  inserted  the  masts  from 
which  once  proudly  floated  the  three 
gonfalons  of  silk  and  gold,  emble- 
matical of  the  three  dominions  of 
the  republic — ^Venice,  Cyprtis,  and  the 
Morea.  These  gonfalons^  after  having 
given  way  to  the  tricolor,  are  now  re- 
placed by  the  Austrian  standards  on 
feast-days.  Of  the  beautiful  bronze 
pedestals,  in  which  the  masts  are  in- 
serted, with  reliefs  of  sea-nymphs  and 
Tritons  elaborately  finished,  one  was 
placed  there  by  Paolo  Barbo,  a  Procu- 
rator of  St.  Mark,  in  1501 ;  the  others 
by  Doge  Loredano,  1505 :  aU  the  work 
of  Alessandro  Leopardi. 

To  the  rt.  on  coming  out  of  St.  Mark 
is  the  Torre  delV  Orologio,  so  called 
from  the  dial  in  the  centre,  resplendent 
with  gold  and  azure,  the  sun  travelling 
round  the  zodiacal  signs  which  decorate 
it,  and  marking  the  time  of  twice  twelve 
hours.  Above  are  two  figures  of  bronze, 
called  by  the  people  Moors,  who  strike 
the  hours  upon  the  bell,  like  those  on 
old  St.  Dunstan's  ch.  in  London.  In  a 
writer  of  the  last  century  there  is  a  story 
of  one  of  these  bronze  men  having  com- 
mitted murder,  by  knocking  an  unfortu- 
nate workman,  who  stood  within  the 
swing  of  his  hammer,  off  the  parapet. 
The  Virgin  of  gilt  bronze,  and,  above, 
a  gigantic  lion  of  St.  Mark,  upon  an 
azure  and  stellated  ground,  decorate 
the  two  upper  stories.  Fietro  Lom- 
hardo  was  the  architect  of  the  tower, 
1494.  The  clock,  as  appears  by  an 
inscription  beneath,  was  made  by  Oio- 
varC  Paolo  Sinaldi  of  Reggio,  and  Oian 
Carlo,  his  son.  Having  been  injured 
by  Ughtning  in  1750,  it  was  restored 
by  Ferracina  of  Baesano,  in  1755.  The 
wings  on  each  side  of  the  tower,  which 
are  of  the  architecture  of  the  school 
of  Pietro  Lombardo,  were  added  at  the 
beginning  of  the  16th  century. 

Beneath  the  clock-tower  is  the  en- 
trance to  the  Merceria,  the  part  of 
Venice  which  exhibits  most  commercial 
activity.   Here  are  the  principal  shops ; 


and  the  best  retail  trade  carried  on 
in  the  city  is  nearly  all  concentrated 
in  this  quarter.    The  streets  about  the 
Merceria,  and  through-which  you  may 
thread  your  way  to  the  other  main  land 
of  the  Bialto,  are  very  intricate,  nar- 
row, and  much  crowded.*    Beyond  the 
tower,  the  Procuratie  Vecchie,  standing 
upon  50  arches,  forms  nearly  the  entire 
N.  side  of  the  piazza  of  St.  Mark.  This 
fabric  was  raised  hy  BartolommeoBuono 
and  Guglielmo  da  Bergamo,  in  1517, 
and  was  intended  for  the  habitation 
of  the  procurators  of  St.  Mark,  who 
were  amongst  the  most  important  digni- 
taries of  the  republic,  nine  in  number 
originally.     They  were  the  churchwar- 
dens or  trustees  of  San  Marco,  having 
the  care  of  the  fabric,  and  the  manage- 
ment of  its  property;    Bartolommeo 
Tiepolo,  elected  in  1049,  being  the  first 
upon  record.    With  the  increase  of  the 
riches  of  San  Marco,  their  numbers  were 
augmented,  till  at  length  they  increased 
to  about  34,  and  the  enlargement  of 
the  board,   or  tribunal,   was    accom- 
panied by  a  great  extension  of  their 
powers.     Amongst  other  duties,  they 
constituted  a  court  of  orphans,  being 
their   official  guardians   and  trustees. 
The  procuratori  were  in  such  high  re- 
pute for  their  integrity  and  good  ma- 
nagement, that  it  was  a  common  practice 
for  parents  in  other  states  of  Italy  to 
appoint  them  executors  of  their  wiUs. 
And,  generally  speaking,  the  doge  was 
elected  from  this  body.    The  office  was 
held  for  life,  and,  as  the  republic  de- 
clined, a  certain  number  of  the  places 
were  sold  as  a  means  of  filling  the  coffers 
of  the  state .  This  practice  began  diuiig 
the  disastrous  war  of  Candia.    They 
had  two  prices:  the  old  nobility  paid 
80,000  ducats  (6000^.)  for  their  gown, 
the  new  100,000  (20,000^.).    For  the 
accommodation  of  the  increasing  num- 
bers the  Procuratie  Nuove  were  erected. 
This  building  is  in  the  lower  stories 
a  continuation  of  the  Biblioteca  :  Sea' 
mozzi,  to  whom  it  was  intrusted,  adopt- 

♦  It  may  assist  the  pedestrian  Tisitor  to  know 
that  in  the  pavement  of  these  streets  he  -will 
see  a  white  line  of  marble  let  in,  by  following 
which  he  will  always  reach  the  Ponte  di  Rialto. 
It  extends  to  the  moat  northern  extremity  of 
the  city. 


Venet.  PROV.     Soute  SI. —  Venice — Pd.  Impertak — Library,        371 


ing  for  the  most  part  the  deeign  oiScm' 
sovino,  added  a  third  story.  "  I^or  this 
upper  order  of  the  Procuratie  Nuove 
Scaxnozzi  has  often  been  unjustly  re- 
proached, because  he  did  not  confine 
himself  to  two  stories,  so  as  to  complete 
the  design  of  Sansoyino.  The  design 
of  Scamozzi,  had  it  been  continued  in 
the  Piazza  San  Marco,  would  have 
placed  in  the  background  every  other 
square  in  Europe.  The  two  lower 
stories  of  the  !ftrocuratie  Nuove  are 
similar  in  design  to  the  Libreria  : 
and  it  is  greatly  to  be  regretted  that 
Scamozzi  was  so  much  otherwise  occu- 
pied, that  he  had  not  the  opportu- 
nity of  watching  the  whole  of  its  exe- 
cution, which  would  have  extended  to 
30  arcades,  whose  whole  length  would 
have  been  426  ft.  Scamozzi  only  su- 
perintended the  first  13 ;  the  3  built 
by  Sansovino  excepted,  the  rest  were 
trusted  to  the  care  of  builders  rather 
than  artists,  and,  from  the  httle  atten- 
tion bestowed  upon  preserving  the 
profiles,  exhibit  a  negligence  which  in- 
dicates a  decline  in  the  arts  at  Venice." 
— Owilt  The  sculptures  here  are 
elegant,  particularly  the  foliaged  frieze 
of  the  Ionic  story,  interspersed  with 
sea-gods  and  nymphs. 

These  Procuratie  Nuove  were  con- 
verted into  a  palace  by  the  Viceroy 
Eugene  Beauhamois,  and  now  consti- 
tute a  portion  of  the  Palazzo  Imperiale 
(permission  to  visit  to  be  procured  at  the 
oifices  of  leFinanze,Riva  dei  Schiavoni), 
which  is  continued  along  the  western 
side  of  the  Piazza  by  a  facade  also  built 
by  the  French.  To  make  way  for  this 
addition  to  the  palace,  the  church  of 
San  GemmianOf  one  of  the  finest  works 
oi  SansovinOy  and  his  burial-place,  was 
demolished  in  1810.  The  history  of 
the  church  of  San  Geminiano  is 
curious.  It  was  founded  by  Narses 
upon  ground  by  the  side  of  the 
great  campanile  of  S.  Marco,  and  now 
forming  part  of  the  piazza,  which  was 
enlarged  to  its  present  extent  by 
the  demolition  of  the  ancient  fabric. 
This  demolition  took  place  when  Vitale 
Michael  was  Doge,  1156-1172;  and 
the  consent  of  the  pope  was  solicited, 


but  not  obtained.  "  The  apostolic  see 
may  pardon  a  wrong  after  it  is  com- 
mitted, but  never  can  sanction  it 
beforehand,"  was  the  reply.  Acting 
upon  this  guarded  reply,  they  demo- 
lished the  church,  and  rebuilt  it  upon 
the  site  which  it  afterwards  occupied. 
But  yearly  the  Doge  came  forth  with 
his  train  to  meet  the  parish  priest, 
who,  standing  upon  the  desecrated 
spot,  demanded  of  his  Serenity  that  he 
would  be  pleased  to  rebuild  the  church 
upon  its  old  foundations.  "  Next 
year,"  was  the  reply  of  the  Doge ;  and 
thus  was  the  promise  renewed  and 
broken  until  the  repubUc  was  no  more. 
The  second  church  of  San  Geminiano, 
falling  into  decay,  was  replaced,  about 
the  year  1505,  by  the  structure  which 
disappeared  in  the  present  century. 

The  Imperial  Palace  contains  some 
good  paintings,  dispersed  through  its 
several  apartments :  amongst  others,  in 
the  octagon  saloon,  Tintoretto^  the 
Adoration  of  the  Magi,  and  Joachim 
driven  from  the  Temple.  In  the  chapel, 
Albert  JDurer,  an  Ecce  Homo. — Paolo 
VeronesCf  Our  Lord's  Agony. — Some 
good  Bonifazios  and  portraits  by  Tin- 
toretto ^  from  La  Zecca. — Passano,  the 
Presentation  in  the  Temple.  Several 
very  clever  modem  pieces,  and  some 
showy  frescoes,  by  Sayez  and  other 
modem  artists. 

The  W.  side  of  the  Piazzetta  is^  f 
occupied  by  the  Libreria  Vecchia^  now 
part  of  the  Palazzo  Imperiale,  and 
united  to  the  buildings  of  the  Piazza. 
The  donations  of  the  MSS.  of  Petrarch 
and  of  Cardinal  Bessarion  induced  the 
Senate  to  build  the  library  in  1536 ;  a 
task  which  they  intrusted  to  Sanso' 
vinOf  who,  in  1529,  had  been  appointed 
architect  to  the  republic.  Petrarch  ap- 
pears to  have  contemplated  his  visits  to 
the  Lagmies  with  no  ordinary  satisfac- 
tion J  and,  in  order  more  substantially  to 
testify  his  grateful  sense  of  the  frequent 
hospitality  of  the  republic,  he  offered 
his  library  as  a  legacy.  In  1362,  while 
the  plague  was  raging  at  Padua,  he 
had  fixed  his  abode  at  Venice,  which 
was  free  from  it:  his  books  accom- 
panied  him,  and,   for   their   convey- 

fi  2 


372 


EouAe  81. —  Venice — Library, 


Sect.  IV. 


ance,  he  was  obliged  to  retain  a  nu- 
merous and  extensive  stud  of  baggage- 
horses.  On  the  4th  of  September  in 
that  year  he  wrote  to  the  Senate, — "  I 
wish,  with  the  good-will  of  our  Sa- 
viour, and  of  the  Evangelist  himself, 
to  make  St.  Mark  heir  of  my  library." 
His  chief  stipulations  were,  that  the 
books  should  neither  be  sold  nor  dis- 
persed, and  that  a  building  should  be 
provided  in  which  they  might  be  se- 
cure against  fire  and  the  weather. 
The  Great  Council  gladly  accepted 
this  Uberal  donation,  and  addressed  its 
thanks  in  terms  of  courtesy  ^rhaps 
not  exaggerated,  if  we  remeniber  the 
times  in  which  they  were  written), 
"  to  a  scholar  unrivalled  in  poetry,  in 
moral  philosophy,  and  in  theology." 
A  palace  which  belonged  to  the  Mo- 
lina family,  and  which  in  later  years 
had  been  converted  into  a  monastery 
for  the  nuns  of  St.  Sepulchre,  was 
assigned  as  a  residence  for  the  poet, 
and  as  a  depository  for  his  books. 
This  collection,  which  formed  the 
nucleus  of  the  now  inestimable  U- 
brary  of  St.  Mark,  though  by  no 
means  extensive,  still  contained  many 
treasures  of  no  ordinary  value.  Among 
them  are  enumerated  a  MS.  of  Homer, 
given  to  Petrarch  by  Kicolaus  Sigeros, 
ambassador  from  the  Greek  Emperor ; 
a  beautiful  copy  of  Sophocles  j  the  entire 
Iliad,  and  great  part  of  the  Odyssey, 
translated  by  Leontio  PUato,  and 
copied  in  the  writing  of  Boccaccio, 
whom  the  translator  had  instructed 
in  Greek ;  an  imperfect  Quintilian ; 
and  most  of  the  works  of  Cicero, 
transcribed  by  Petrarch  himself,  who 
professed  most  unbounded  admiration 
for  the  great  Boman  orator.  The 
Yenetians,  to  their  shame,  grievously 
neglected  the  stipulations  that  accom- 
panied the  poet's  gift.  When  Toma- 
sini  requested  permission  to  inspect 
the  books,  in  the  early  part  of  the 
17th  century,  he  was  led  to  tlie  roof 
of  St.  Mark's,  where  he  found  them, 
"  partly  reduced  to  dust,  partly  pe- 
trified"— dictu  mirum!  in  saxa  mu- 
tatos ;  and  he  adds  a  catalogue  of 
such  as  were  afterwards  rescued  from 


destruction  J  the  whole  of  Petrarch's 
MSS.  liave  been  destroyed.  About 
a  century  after  the  establishment  of 
tliis  first  pubhc  hbrary  in  Venice  it  was 
largely  increased  by  the  munificence  of 
Cardinal  Bessarion,  who,  as  patriarch 
of  Constantinople,  possessed  frequent 
opportimities  of  securing  MSS.  of  great 
rarity,  and  who  may  be  considered  the 
founder  of  the  present  library;  and 
afterwards  by  the  collections  of  Cardinal 
Grimani  and  of  Professor  Melchior 
Wieland,  a  native  of  Marienburg,  who, 
out  of  gratitude  for  benefits  con- 
ferred by  the  repubUc,  bequeathed  his 
library  to  it.  It  now  contains  about 
120,000  vols,  and  10,000  MSS.,  wliich 
in  1812  were  transferred  from  the  Li- 
hreria  Vecchia  to  the  splendid  saloon 
in  the  Ducal  Palace,  no  longer  re- 
quired for  the  assemblies  of  the  Grand 
Council,  and  to  some  rooms  adjoining. 
"  The  library  of  St.  Mark  is  a  build- 
ing of  noble  design,  notwithstanding 
the  improprieties  with  which  it  is  re- 
plete. It  consists  of  two  orders, — the 
lower  one  of  highly  gmamented  Doric, 
and  the  upper  one  Ionic,  and  very 
graceful  in  effect.  Of  both  these 
orders  the  entablatures  are  of  inordi- 
nate comparative  height.  The  upper 
one  was  expressly  so  set  out  for  the 
purpose  of  exldbiting  the  beautiful 
sculptures  with  which  it  is  decorated. 
Tlie  cornice  is  crowned  with  a  balus- 
trade, on  whose  piers  statues  were 
placed  by  the  ablest  scholars  of  Sanso- 
vino.  A  portico  occupies  the  ground- 
floor,  which  is  raised  three  steps  from 
the  level  of  the  piazza.  This  portico 
consists  of  21  arcades,  whose  piers  are 
decorated  with  columns.  In  the  inte- 
rior are  arches  corresponding  to  the 
exterior  ones,  16  whereof,  with  their 
internal  apartments,  are  appropriated 
for  shops.  Opposite  the  centre  arch  is 
a  magnificent  staircase  leading  to  the 
Iiall,  beyond  which  is  the  library  of  St. 
Mark.  The  faults  of  this  building, 
which  are  very  many,  are  lost  in  its 
grace  and  elegance  ;  and  it  is,  perhaps, 
the chef'Wceworeoi  the  master." — Ghvilt. 
The  interior  decorations  are  in  keeping 
with  the  exterior.    The  ceiling  of  the 


Venet.  Prov.  Rovie  31. —  Vemce^Zecca — Columns, 


373 


great  hall  in  which  the  books  were  depo- 
sited is  filled  with  very  fine  ornaments 
in  stucco,  and  with  paintings  by  the  best 
Venetian  artists.  Three  compartments, 
honour,  mathematics,  and  music,  are 
by  JPaolo  Veronese.  Other  subjects  are 
— Tintoretto,  St.  Mark  delivering  a 
Saracen,  and  the  furtive  exportation  of 
the  relics  of  St.  Mark  from  Alexandria  j 
and  the  grand  staircase ;  the  latter  has 

.     fine  ornaments  in  stucco  by  Vittoria. 

^  The  Zecca,  or  Mint,  adjoins  the  Li- 
breria,  on  the  Molo.  Built  by  Sanso- 
vino  in  1536,  it  is  a  noble  specimen  of 
Italian  rustic-work,  above  which  are 
two  orders,  Doric  and  Ionic.  From 
this  establishment  the  Zecchino,  or  Se- 
quin, the  ancient  gold  coin  of  the  re- 
public, derived  i1  s  name ;  in  the  Stam- 
peria  of  the  Zeoca  is  a  Madonna  in 
fresco  by  Titian.  The  Cortile  of  the 
Zecca  is  by  Scamozzi.  Here  is  a 
singular  figure  of  an  Apollo,  by  Cat- 
taneOy  holding  a  golden  ingot. 

At  the  southern  extremity  of  the 
Piazzetta  are  the  iivo  granite  coliMnns, 
the  one  surmounted  by  the  Hon  of  St. 
Mark,  the  other  by  St.  Theodore,  exe- 
cuted by  Pietro  Guilomhardo  (1329). 
These  columns  so  completely  formed 
a  part  of  the  idea  of  Yenice,  that  they 
were  repeated  in  most  of  the  cities  sub- 
ject to  its  dominion.  St.  Theodore 
stands  upon  a  crocodile :  his  head  is 
covered  by  a  nimbus.  In  his  I,  hand 
he  wields  a  sword;  a  shield  is  on 
his  rt.  arm.  This  is  considered,  says 
Francesco  Sansovino,  as  symbohcal  of 
the  temper  of  our  republic ;  and  that 
she  exerts  her  strong  hand  for  her  own 
defence,  and  not  to  attack  others.  St. 
Theodore  Tyro  was,  as  his  surname 
imports,  a  young  Syrian  soldier,  who 
suffered  martyrdom  under  Maximin, 
and  was  much  honoured  by  the  Eastern 
Church.  Narses,  after  expelling  the 
Ostrogoths,  visited  (a.d.  553)  the  rising . 
republic  of  the  Venetians — for  Venice, 
properly  so  called,  did  not  then  exist — 
and  built  a  church  or  chapel  in  honour 
of  St.  Theodore,  now  included  in  that 
of  St.  Mark;  and  St.  Theodore  con- 
tinued the  patron  of  the  repubhc  until, 
OS  already  mentioned,  St,  Mark  sup- 


planted him  in   the  popular  venera- 
tion. 

The  lion  suffered  during  the  repub- 
lican rule  of  the  French.  From  the 
book  which  he  holds  the  words  of  the 
Gospel  were  effaced,  and  *^  Droits  de 
VUomine  et  du  Citoyen "  substituted  in 
their  stead.  Upon  tliis  change  a  gon- 
dolier remarked  that  St.  Mark,  like  all 
the  rest  of  the  world,  had  been  com- 
pelled to  turn  over  a  new  leaf.  The 
lion  was  afterwards  removed  to  the  J»- 
valides  at  Paris,  but  was  restored  at 
the  peace  of  1815. 

The  capitals  of  the  columns  bespeak 
their  Byzantine  origin.  Three  were 
brought  from  the  Holy  Land  in  1127. 
One  sank  into  the  mud  as  they  were 
landing  it ;  the  other  two  were  safely 
lodged  on  the  shore  ;  but,  as  the  story 
goes,  there  they  lay,  no  one  could  raise 
them.  Doge  Sebastiano  Ziani  (1172- 
1180)  having  offered  as  a  reward  that  he 
who  should  succeed  should  not  lack  any 
"  grazia  onesta"  a  certain  Lombard, 
nicknamed  Nicol6  il  Barattiere,  or  Nick 
the  Blackleg,  offered  his  services  ;  and 
he  placed  the  columns  on  their  pedes- 
tals. Nicole  claimed  as  his  reward 
that  games  of  chance,  prohibited  else- 
where by  the  law,  might  be  played 
with  impunity  between  the  columns 
The  concession,  once  made,  could  not 
be  revoked;  but  the  Council  enacted 
that  all  public  executions,  which  had 
hitherto  taken  place  at  San  Giovanni 
Bragola,  should  be  inflicted  in  the  pri- 
vileged gambling  spot,  by  which  means 
the  space  "  between  the  columns  "  be- 
came so  ill-omened,  that  even  crossing 
it  was  thought  to  be  a  precursor  of  mis- 
fortune. 

At  the  opposite  end  of  the  Piazzetta, 
near  the  BasiHca  of  San  Marco,  are 
some  other  curious  relics  of  ancient 
times. 

The  Pietra  del  Bando,  at  the  comer 
of  the  church,  a  stumpy  column  of  red 
porphyry,  from  which  the  laws  of  the 
Repubhc  were  promulgated  ;  it  is  said 
to  have  been  brought  from  Acre. 

The  square  pillars  of  St.  John  of  Acre, 
originally  forming  part  of  a  gateway  in 
the  Ch.  of  Santa  Saba  at  Ptolemais : 


374 


Route  31.—  Venice — Campanile — Doge^s  Palace,    Sect,  IV. 


after  a  contest  between  the  Venetians 
and  the  Genoese  for  that  ch.^  in  1256, 
and  in  which  the  former  were  suc- 
cessftd,  they  brought  away  these  piers 
as  a  trophy  of  their  triumph.  They 
are  covered  with  fretwork  and  inscrip- 
tions, apparently  formed  of  mono- 
grams, which  have  never  been  ex- 
plained, and  which  are  supposed  to 
date  from  the  7th  centy.  The  Latin 
cross  sculptured  on  the  base  is  of  a 
much  more  recent  date. 

Near  the  angle  of  the  Piazza  and 
Piazzetta  stands  the  great  Campcmile 
or  BeU-tower  of  St.  Mark:  begun  in 
902,  under  the  government  of  Dome- 
nico  Tiepolo,  it  was  not  carried  up  to 
the  belfry  until  the  time  of  Domenico 
Morosini  (1148-1155),  whose  epitaph 
is  so  ambiguously  worded  as  to  claim 
the  honour  of  the  entire  edifice.  The 
ascent  is  by  a  continuous  inclined 
plane  a  cordoni,  which  winds  round 
an  inner  hollow  tower.  The  belfry, 
an  open  loggia  of  four  arches  in  each 
face,  was  bmlt  in  1510,  by  Maestro 
Buono ;  the  whole  being  surmounted 
by  a  lofty  pyramid.  The  prospect 
hence  is  magnificent.  A  watchman  is 
stationed  in  the  belfry,  who  at  stated 
times  strikes  the  great  bell.  The  height 
of  the  Campanile  is  828  ft.,  and  42  ft. 
wide  at  the  base.  The  Angel  surmount- 
ing the  tower,  and  serving  as  a  weather- 
cock, is  said  to  be  80  ft.  high.  At 
the  foot  is  the  much  criticised  loggia 
of  SansovinOy  built  about  1540;  orua- 
mented  with  four  bronze  statues  of 
Pallas,  Apollo,  Mercury,  and  Peace — 
cast  by  him.  The  order  is  a  fancifrd 
Composite.  The  colunms  are  of  rich 
marbles.  The  elevation  contains  several 
bas-reUefe  in  marble,  of  which  the  three 
principal  are  in  the  attic,  and  represent 
in  the  centre  Venice  as  Justice,  with 
two  rivers  flowing  at  her  feet :  on  the 
rt.  of  the  spectator,  Venus — ^the  symbol 
of  the  Island  of  Cyprus  ;  on  the  1., 
Jupiter — the  symbol  of  Crete.  The 
two  bas-reUefs  also  beneath  the  bronze 
statues,  on  the  side  towards  the  flag- 
staffs,  are  much  admired ;  the  subjects 
are,  the  I^all  of  Helle  from  the  Kam  of 
Phryxus,  and  Tethys  assisting  Leander. 


In  the  interior,  which  was  used  as  the 
station  for  the  Procurators  in  command 
of  the  guard  during  the  sitting  of  the 
Great  Council,  ia  a  Madonna  by  San- 
sovino. 

Palazzo  Ihicale.  (Open  from  9  to  4 
daily,  Sundays  included.)  On  the  eastern 
side  of  the  Piazzetta  stands  the  Doge's 
Palace,  or  Palazxo  Ducale.  The  south- 
em  front  extends  along  the  Molo  as  f&r 
as  the  canal  which  separates  the  latter 
from  the  Riva  degli  Schiavoni.  The 
first  palace  which  was  built  on  this  spot 
was  in  820.  This  having  been  destroyed 
in  a  sedition  was  replaced  by  another, 
built  about  970,  by  the  Doge  Pietro 
Orseolo.  This  last  was,  150  years  after- 
wards, destroyed  by  a  great  fire,  which 
consumed  a  third  of  Venice.  A  second 
fire  having  destroyed  the  palace,  its 
reconstruction  began  under  the  Doge 
Marin  FaUer  (1854-5) ;  the  architect, 
or  at  least  the  designer,  being  Mlippo 
Calendario,  the  same,  according  to 
modem  historians,  who  appears  as  a 
chief  conspirator  in  Lord  Byron's 
tragedy.  That  a  person  so  named 
did  take  an  active  share  in  the  plot, 
and  that  he  was  hanged  with  a  gag 
in  his  mouth  upon  the  red  pillars  of 
the  balcony  of  the  palace  from  which 
tiie  duke  was  wont  to  view  the  shows 
in  the  Piazzetta^  is  unquestionable;  but 
the  contemporary  chronicle  describes 
him  as  a  seaman ;  and  it  frould  seem 
that  the  real  Filippo,  at  least  the  real 
artist,  died  in  the  preceding  year  whilst 
employed  upon  his  works.  Very  little 
of  Calendario's  edifice  now  remains  ex- 
cept the  two  large  halls  of  the  Maggior 
Consiglio  and  Scrutinio,  the  rest  of  the 
palace  dating  from  the  reconstruction 
commenced  in  1420  imder  Doge  To- 
masso  Mocenigo.  In  this  reconstruc- 
tion the  famUy  of  Bon  or  Buono, 
native  architects,  or,  as  they  are  termed 
in  a  contemporary  document,  stone- 
cutters (Tajapieri),  bore  the  principal 
part :  the  most  eminent  of  whom  was 
one  of  th©  sons,  Bartolommeo,  who  has 
left  his  name  inscribed  on  the  most 
beautiful  portion  of  the  fagade,  the 
Porta  delta  Carta  or  principal  entrance 
to  the  Palace  on  the  side  of  the  Piaz- 


Ven.  Prov.       Rovie  31. —  Venioe — The  Doge's  Palace, 


375 


zetta.  To  the  period  of  the  Bons 
belong  the  whole  of  the  beautiful  colon- 
nades towards  the  Molo  and  Piazzetta, 
the  Porta  della  Carta,  and  the  passage 
leading  from  it  to  the  Great  Inner 
Court,  which  appears  to  have  been 
completed  about  the  year  1471.  A 
great  deal,  particularly  the  sides  of  the 
Court,  is  of  a  later  date — the  interior  of 
the  building  having  been  exceedingly 
damaged,  or  rather  reduced  to  a  shell,  by 
two  successive  fires,  in  1574  and  1577. 

All  the  principal  apartments  were 
destroyed  by  these  conflagrations.  The 
paintings  of  G-iovanni  BeUini,  Oar- 
paccio^  Pordenone,  and  Titian,  repre- 
senting the  triumphs  of  the  repubUo 
«nd  the  heroes  of  her  annals,  together 
with  the  vast  halls  whose  walls  they 
covered,  perished  in  the  flames.  The 
walls  were  calcined  and  riven.  One 
comer  of  the  building  had  fallen,  se- 
veral columns  and  arches  were  shat- 
tered J  and  Palladio,  who  was  consulted 
with  other  architects,  maintained  it 
would  be  dangerous,  if  not  impractic- 
able, to  attempt  the  re-insertion  of  the 
floors,  and  proposed  to  rebuild  the 
whole  palace  in  a  more  uniform  and 
elegant  style.  But  after  much  con- 
sideration in  the  Senate,  it  was  de- 
termined not  to  innovate,  but  to  retain 
the  fabric  as  much  as  possible  in  its  an- 
cient form.  In  the  repairs  and  altera- 
tions, however,  of  the  interior  cortile, 
the  later.  Italian  style  of  the  Benais- 
sance  is  a  good  deal  introduced. 

The  plan  of  the  building  is  an  irregu- 
lar square:  the  2  sides  fronting  the  Piaz- 
zetta,  and  the  Molo  on  a  line  with  the 
JRi^a  degli  ScMavoni^  are  supported 
upon  double  ranges  of  arches.  The 
columns  of  the  lowest  tier  of  arches  are 
partly  imbedded  in  the  pavement,  the 
level  of  which  was  raised  (1732)  about  a 
foot,  in  consequence  of  the  inundations 
to  which  the  Piazzetta  and  Molo  were 
subject,  which  gives  them  an  undeserved 
appearance  of  clumsiness.  They  stand, 
however,  not  upon  bases,  but  upon  a 
continued  stylobate,  as  discovered  some 
years  ago  when  the  piazzetta  was  re- 
paved. 

It  appears,  from  observations  made 


with  care,  that  the  mean  level  of  sea  at 
Venice  has  risen  about  3  in.  in  every  cen- 
tury :  so  that,  as  these  columns  have 
been  erected  five  centuries,  about  15  in. 
of  the  lower  part  of  them  are  now  con- 
cealed, owing  to  the  repeated  and  neces- 
sary elevation  of  the  pavement. 

Before  the  fire  both  the  upper  and 
lower  loggie  were  only  separated  from. 
the  main  cortile,  as  well  as  from  the 
Piazza  and  Piazzetta,  by  ranges  of  open 
arches,  but  now  these  are  closed.  The 
whole  of  the  loggia  towards  the  Molo, 
and  the  first  six  of  the  columns  on  the 
side  of  the  Piazzetta,  being  of  larger 
diameter  than  the  others  in  conse- 
quence of  having  to  support  a  greater 
weight  of  the  pre-existing  edifice,  are 
by  the  Bon  fanuly,  Giovanni  the  father 
and  his  sons  Pantaleone  and  Bartolom- 
meo.  The  capitals,  executed  princi- 
pally from  the  designs  of  the  latter, 
are  extremely  curious  for  their  varied 
designs,  as  they  are  elaborate  fi^m 
their  execution.  They  contain  figures 
and  groups  emblematical  of  good 
government  and  the  due  adminifitra- 
tion  of  the  law ;  such  as  the  legendary 
story,  so  popular  in  the  middle  ages, 
of  the  Justice  of  Trajan,  the  Seven 
Sages,  and  a  long  train  of  analogous 
allegory.  The  9th  and  10th  of  the 
upper  tier  in  the  Piazzetta,  reckon- 
ing from,  the  angle  at  the  door  of 
entrance,  called  the  Porta  della  Carta, 
are  of  red  marble ;  from  between  these 
two  columns,  sentences  on  criminals 
were  proclaimed.  Dr.  Moore,  writing 
from  Venice  about  20  years  previous  to 
the  faU  of  the  repubUc,  says,  "  The 
lower  gallery,  or  piazza,  under  the  pa- 
lace, is  called  the  BrogUo.  In  this  the 
noble  Venetians  walk  and  converse ;  it 
is  only  here,  and  at  council,  when  they 
have  opportunities  of  meeting  together, 
for  they  seldom  visit  openly,  or  in  a 
family  way,  at  each  other's  houses,  and 
secret  meetings  would  give  innbrage  to 
the  state  inquisitors  ;  they  choose  there- 
fore to  transact  their  business  on  this 
public  walk.  People  of  inferior  rank  sel- 
dom remain  on  the  Broglioforany  lengtli 
of  time  when  the  nobility  are  there." 

The  front  over  the  colonnades  and 


376 


Eoute  31. —  Venice — Tlie  Doge's  Palace. 


Sect.  IV. 


the  large  window  towards  the  Molo  are 
rich  in  figures  and  bas-reliefe,  executed 
probably  towards  the  close  of  the  15th 
centy.  by  Antonio  Rizzo ;  and  the  other 
large  window,  towards  the  Piazzetta 
(1523-1538),  is  as  remarkable  of  its 
kind,  haying  been  executed  by  Tullio 
Lomhardo  and  Chiglielmo  Sergamasco: 
all  are  wrought  with  the  greatest  care. 
The  principal  entrance  to  the  Palazzo 
is  from  the  Piazzetta  through  the  Porta 
della  Cartu,  which  possesses  great 
symmetry  and  dehcacy.  The  inscrip- 
tion "Opus  BartholomsDi "  over  the 
arch  (1439-1443)  declares  the  name  of 
the  architect.  The  4  statues  of  Force, 
Prudence,  Hope,  and  Charity,  and  the 
seated  figure  of  Justice  above,  are 
good  specimens  of  the  sculpture  of 
the  15th  centy.,  and  by  members  of 
the  Bon  family  the  statue  of  Doge 
Foscari,  during  whose  reign  this  beau- 
tiful gate  was  erected,  kneeling  before 
the  Lion  of  St.  Mark,  was  brutally 
broken  to  pieces  by  the  democratic  rab- 
ble in  1797,  the  head  of  Foscari,  now  iu 
the  museum,  being  alone  preserved. 

Opposite  to,  and  seen  tlurough,  the 
Porta  della  Carta  and  the  fine  portal 
beyond  it,  which  opens  into  the  Q-rand 
Court  of  the  Palace,  is  the  Scala  del 
Oiganti,  the  Giants'  Staircase,  erected 
towards  1483  by  A.  Rizzo.  It  derives 
its  name  from  two  colossal  statues  of 
Mars  and  Neptune  by  Sansovino,  which 
stand  on  either  side  at  the  head  of 
the  staircase.  The  portals  and  arches 
are  inlaid  and  incrusted  with  the  finest 
marbles,  most  dehcately  worked,  by 
Semardo  and  Domenico  di  Mantova; 
and  the  steps  themselves  are  inlaid  in 
front  with  a  species  of  metal  intarsia- 
tura.  The  statues  of  Adam  and  Eve, 
opposite  the  Scala  dei  Giganti,  are  by 
Itizzo,  and  are  considered  as  having 
surpassed  all  previous  productions  of 
the  Veneto-Lombard  School.  It  was  on 
the  platform  at  the  head  of  these  stairs 
that  the  Doges  were  crowned — it  was 
here  also  that  Lord  Byron,  by  a  strange 
anachronism,  has  placed  the  closing 
scene  of  Marin  Falier,  for  which  there 
was  no  documentary  authority. 

Bound  the  colonnade    on  the   1st 


floor  have  been  placed  busts  of  Ve- 
netian celebrities  —  Enrico  Dandolo, 
Morosini,  Bembo,  Arduino,  Lazzaro 
Moro,  Marco  Polo,  Tintoretto,  Fra 
Paolo  Sarpi,  Paruta ;  of  Doges  Zeno 
Vittorio  Pisani,  Foscari,  and  Rinieri, 
the  last  but  one  of  Venice's  lords ;  of 
Galileo,  Sebastian  Cabot,  &c. ;  some 
placed  here  by  their  descendants,  but  the 
greater  number  by  a  society  of  pa- 
triotic Venetian  gentlemen. 

In  the  courtyard  are  two  finely  sculp- 
tured bronzeopenings  of  cisterns  or  Pii- 
tealiy  one  executed  by  Nicolo  de  Conti 
in  1556,  the  other  by  Alfonso  Albor- 
gliettl  in  1559.  On  the  1.  hand,  when 
ascending  the  GKants'  St-aircase,  is  a 
beautiful  facade  of  2  stories,  by  Cht- 
glielmo  Pergamasco^  forming  one  side 
of  the  Corte  de^  Senatori.  Opposite 
the  top  of  the  staircase,  and  close  to  it, 
against  the  wall  of  the  loggia  may  be 
observed  an  inscription  let  into  the 
wall,  commemorating  the  visit  of  Henry 
III.  of  France  to  Venice  in  1574. 
Passing  along  the  corridor  loggia,  which 
surrounds  three  sides  of  the  court,  and 
in  which  have  been  lately  placed  busts 
and  statues  of  celebrated  Venetians,  you 
find  on  the  1.  the  great  staircase,  the 
Scala  cTOro.  Sansovino  had  a  con- 
siderable share  in  its  construction.  The 
ornaments  in  stucco  are  by  Alessandro 
Vittoria,  and  the  paintings  by  Franco  ; 
the  whole  was  completed  about  the 
year  1577.  There  was  much  difficulty 
in  adapting  this  staircase  to  the  plan 
of  the  building.  The  adaptation  of 
the  fretwork  to  the  cove  of  the  ascend- 
ing roof  is  particularly  skilful :  beyond 
this  staircase  are  the  Stanze  degli  Awo- 
gadori,  in  one  of  which  is  a  Pietik  by 
Giovanni  Pellimi;  it  was  here  in  former 
times  that  the  celebrated  Libbro 
d'  Oro,  or  Boll  of  the  Venetian  Aris- 
tocracy, was  preserved.  Farther  on  is 
a  second  flight  of  stairs,  which  leads 
to  the  library,  after  ascending  which  a 
large  door  on  the  1.  hand  gives  admis- 
sion to  the  suite  of  rooms  which  occupy 
the  fiu^ades  of  the  Palace  on  the  side 
of  the  Molo  and  Piazzetta,  The  first 
room  entered  is  an  antechamber,  now 
filled  with  books,  and  having  over  tlie 


Ven.  Peov-    Route  31. —  Venice — The  Doge's  Palace — Paintings,    37*7 


door  the  portrait  of  Card.  Bessarion, 
and  above  the  opposite  one  leading  to 
the  great  hall  a  portrait  of  Paolo  Sarpi, 
by  Leandro  Bassano.  From  this  opens 
the  reading-room  of  the  library,  and 
beyond,  the  door  leading  to  the  libra- 
rian's apartments,  where  are  preserved 
the  MS.  treasures  (upwards  of  10,000) 
of  this  celebrated  collection,  amongst 
which  may  be  mentioned  the  magnifi- 
cent Grrimani  breviary,  only  shown  on 
"Weds.,  with  more  than  100  splendid 
miniatures  by  Hemling,  Yander  Mere, 
&c.,  of  the  16th  centy. ;  it  was  pur- 
chased by  Doge  Grimani  for  500 
zequins,  and  is  one  of  the  finest  works 
of  art  of  the  kind  in  the  world  j  the 
MS.  of  the  Divina  Commedia,  of 
the  14th  centy.,  with  contemporary 
miniatures;  the  Herbarium  of  Rimo 
(1415)  ;  the  Will  of  Marco  Polo 
(1373) ;  and  many  fine  Greek  MSS. 
bequeathed  by  Cardinal  Bessarion ; 
and  amongst  the  books,  the  first 
printed  at  Yenice,  Cicero  ad  Fami- 
liares,  1469,  and  the  Ed.  Prin.  of  Ho- 
mer (14-88),  printed  on  velliun ;  auto- 
graphs of  several  eminent  personages 
are  exhibited  under  glass.  In  this 
room  may  be  seen  two  fine  antique 
cameos  of  Jupiter  Egyptiacus,  illus- 
trated by  E.  Q.  Yisconti.  He-entering 
the  ante-room,  the  door  opposite  leads 
into  the 

Sala  del  Maggior  Consiglio*  This 
truly  magnificent  Hall,  175^  ft.  long, 
84^  broad,  and  51J  ft,  high,  was.begun 
in  1310,  and  completed  in  1334.  It 
was  afterwards  painted  by  Titian,  JBel- 
Unij  Tintoretto,  and  JPaul  Veronese. 
The  fire  of  1577  destroyed  it,  and 
the  adjoining  one,  disllo  Scrutinio,  and 
all  the  works  of  art  they  contained. 
It  is  now  the  Bihliotheca  di  San 
Ma/rco^  or  Marciana,  the  library  of  the 
Republic  having  been  transfeiTcd  here 
from  the  old  Library  in  the  Piazzetta 
in  1812.  It  is  open  from  9  to  4  o'clock, 
daily,  including  Sundays,  but  not  on 
certain  Feast-days.  The  decorations  of 
tliis  hall  of  the  Great  Council  remain 

•  Many  of  the  rooms  in  the  t)uca1  Palace  are 
now  closed,  and  likely  to  be  so  for  some  time, 
in  consequence  of  r<  pairs  (Oct.  18C5). 


unaltered,  and  the  splendid  paintings 
which  adorn  the  walls  are  proud  me- 
morials of  the  opulence  and  power  of 
the  republic.  In  the  liistory  of  art  they 
are  remarkable  for  a  circumstance  which 
had  considerable  influence  on  it.  They 
are  amongst  the  earhest  large  speci- 
mens of  oil  painting  upon  canvas.  On 
the  rt.  as  you  enter,  that  is,  upon  the 
wall  at  the  E.  end  of  the  hall,  is 

Tintoretto — Paradise.  Damaged  and 
blackened  by  time  and  picture-cleaners, 
yet  still  powerful  and  impressive; 
said  to  be  the  largest  picture  ever 
painted  upon  canvas,  being  84J  ft.  in 
width,  and  34  ft.  in  height. 

Proceeding  round  the  hall,  beginning 
with  the  picture  next  to  this  on  the  rt., 
at  the  E.  end  of  the  N.  wall,  the  paint- 
ings occur  in  the  following  order. 

1.  Carlo  and  G-ahHele  Cagliari,  sons 
of  Paolo  Yeronese.  Pope  Alexander 
III.  discovered  by  the  Doge  Ziani  and 
the  senate  in  the  convent  of  La  Carit^, 
where  he  had  concealed  himself  when 
flying  from  Frederic  II,  in  1177.  Ac- 
cording to  one  historian  he  was  dis- 
guised as  a  scuUion,  according  to  another 
as  a  poor  priest;  in  the  painting  his 
dress  rather  resembles  the  latter.  33  a- 
ronius  takes  great  pains  to  refute  this 
story,  and  he  is  particularly  angry  with 
this  painting.  It  is  fuU  of  action.  The 
group  in  the  gondola  in  the  foreground 
is  good. 

2.  By  the  same.  The  Embassy  de- 
spatched with  powers  from  the  Pope 
and  the  RepubHc  to  the  Emperor ;  a 
small  composition  cut  in  two  by  .co- 
lumns, one  in  the  light  and  the  other  in 
the  shade :  the  groups  are  animated. 

3.  (Above  the  window.)  Leandro 
Bassano.  The  Pope  presenting  the 
lighted  taper  to  the  Doge.  By  this 
act  the  Doge  and  his  successors  acquired 
the  privilege  of  having  such  a  taper 
borne  before  them. 

4.  Tintoretto.  The  ambassadors  meet 
Frederic  II.  at  Pavia,  praying  him  to 
restore  peace  to  Italy  and  the  Church, 
when  he  made  the  proud  answer,  "  that 
unless  they .  delivered  up  the  pope  he 
would  plant  his  eagles  on  the  portal  of 


s  3 


378       Route  31. —  Venice — The  Doge's  Palace — Paintings.     Sect  lY. 


St.  Mark."  The  principal  figures,  the 
two  ambassadors,  have  great  grandeur. 
5..  Francesco  Bassano.  The  Pope 
delivering  the  consecrated  sword  to  the 
Doge  previous  to  his  embarkation, 
The  scene  is  in  the  Piazza  of  San 
Marco,  of  which  it  is  a  representation 
as  the  buildings  stood  at  the  end  of  the 
16th  century. 

6.  (Above  the  window.)  Mammingo. 
The  Doge  departs  from  Venice  receiv- 
ing the  Pope's  blessing. 

7.  JDomenico  Tintoretto,  The  great 
naval  battle  which  took  place  at  Sal- 
vore  off  Pirano  and  Parenzo  in  Istria, 
when  the  Imperial  fleet  was  entirely 
defeated,  and  Otho,  the  son  of  the 
Emperor,  taken  prisoner,  an  event 
which  induced  F^deric  to  treat  for 
peace.  This  is  a  mere  piece  of  national 
boasting,  inasmuch  as  it  appears,  from 
the  absolute  silence  of  all  contemporary 
writers,  that  no  such  battle  was  ever 
foTight.  The  details  of  armour,  cos- 
tume, and  equipments  are  curious. 

8.  (Over  the  door  leading  to  the 
8ala  dello  ScruUnio.)  II  Vicentino. 
Otho  presented  to  the  Pope. 

9.  Jacopo  Palma.  The  Pope  re- 
leases Otho,  and  allows  him  to  repair 
to  his  father. 

10.  F.  Zucchero,  The  Emperor  sub- 
mitting to  the  Pope.  This  painting 
is  amongst  the  finest  in  the  series. 
Amongst  other  beautiful  portions  is  the 
group  of  the  lady  and  her  httle  boy. 

11.  (Over  the  door.)  Girolamo  Gram- 
herato.  The  Doge,  who  had  co-operated 
so  strenuously  in  the  Pope's  cause, 
having  embarked  with  him  and  the 
Emperor,  they  land  in  Ancona  on  their 
way  to  Rome.  On  this  occasion,  ac- 
cording to  the  Venetian  chronicles,  the 
Anconitans  came  out  with  two  um- 
brellas or  canopies,  one  for  the  Pope 
and  the  other  for  the  Emperor,  upon 
which  the  Pontiff  desired  that  a  third 
should  be  brought  for  the  Doge,  who  had 
procured  him  the  consolation  of  peace. 

On  the  W.  side  of  the  hall,  beginning 
with  the  picture  next  to  that  last  men- 
tioned, are — 

1.  Giulio  del  Moro.  Consecrated 
banners  bestowed  upon  the  Doge  by 


the  Pope  in  the  church  of  St.  John 
Lateran:  a  composition  in  which  the 
story  is  remarkably  ill  told.  In  the 
foreground  are  some  strange  grotesque 
figures,  in  particular  a  dwarf  (without 
doubt,  a  portrait)  leading  a  dog. 

2.  (Between  the  2  windows.)  Faolo 
Veronese^  a  fine  work.  The  return  of 
the  Doge  Contarini  after  the  naval  vic- 
tory gained  by  the  Venetians  over  the 
Genoese  at  Chioggia  (1378). 

3.  VAliense,  Baldwin  of  Flanders 
receives  the  Imperial  crown  from  the 
hands  of  the  Doge  Dandolo  at  Con- 
stantinople. This  is  historically  un- 
true, inasmuch  as  he  was  crowned  by 
a  legate. 

On  the  S.  side  of  the  hall  are — 

1.  (Next  to  the  last  picture.)  Tl 
Vicentino.  Baldwin  elected  Emperor 
of  the  East  by  the  Crusaders  in  the 
church  of  Sta.  Sophia. 

2.  JDomenico  l^ntoretto.  The  second 
conquest  of  Constantinople  by  the 
Crusaders  and  the  Venetians  (1204), 
which  was  followed  by  the  pillage  and 
conflagration  of  the  city. 

3.  Palma  Oiovane.  The  first  siege 
and  conquest  of  Constantinople  by  the 
Crusaders  (1203),  the  assault  being  led 
on  by  the  Doge  Dandolo,  blind,  and 
nearly  90  years  of  age. 

4.  II  Vicentino.  Alexis  Comnenus, 
the  son  of  the  dethroned  Emperor  of 
Constantinople,  Isaac,  implores  the  aid 
of  the  Venetians  on  behalf  of  his  father. 

5.  (Over  the  window.)  Dom^enico 
Tintoretto.    The  surrender  of  Zara. 

6.  Vicentino.  Assault  of  Zara  (1202) 
by  the  Venetians,  commanded  by  tlie 
Doge  Dandolo  and  the  Crusaders. 

7.  Le  Clerc.  The  alliance  between 
the  Venetians  and  the  Crusaders,  con- 
cluded in  the  church  of  St.  Mark,  1201. 
The  ambassadors  on  the  part  of  the 
Crusaders  were  Baldwin  Count  of 
Flanders,  Louis  Count  of  Blois,  Gl-eof- 
frey  Count  of  Perche,  Henry  Count  of 
St.  Paul,  Simon  de  Montfort,  the  two 
Counts  of  Brienne,  and  Matthew  de 
Montmorency. 

The  ceiling  is  exceedingly  rich  in 
painting  and  gilding.  Three  larger 
paintings  are  placed  in  a  line  down  the 


Ven".  Prov.1  Houte  31.— Venice — The  Doge^s  Pdace — Paintings,    379 


centre.  That  nearest  to  the  great  pic- 
ture of  Paradise  is  by  Paul  Veronese, 
and  represents  Venice  amid  the  clouds 
and  crowned  by  Glory.  The  centre 
painting,  which  is  oblong,  is  by  Ja- 
copo  TintoreUo,  and  consists  of  two 
parts:  above,  Venice  is  seen  among 
the  Deities ;  below,  the  Doge  da  Ponte 
with  the  senators  receiving  deputa- 
tions from  the  cities  who  tender  alle- 
giance to  the  repubhc.  The  third  pic- 
ture is  by  Falma  Giovane  :  the  subject 
Venice  seated,  crowned  by  Victory, 
and  surrounded  by  the  Virtues.  Some 
of  the  smaller  paintings  are  worthy 
of  notice.  Two  octagonal  pictures, 
on  either  side  of  the  first  mentioned 
oval,  are  by  P.  Veronese.  As  you 
stand  with  your  back  to  the  pic- 
ture of  Paradise,  the  octagon  on  the 
rt,  represents  the  taking  of  Smyrna ; 
that  on  the  1.  the  defence  of  Scutari. 
The  two  beyond  these  are  the  Venetian 
Cavalry  routing  the  army  of  the  Vis- 
contis,  by  Tintoretto :  that  on  the  1., 
the  Victory  of  the  Venetians  over  the 
Duke  of  Ferrara,  by  Bassano.  There 
are  three  octagonal  pictures  on  each 
side  of  the  last  oval  by  JPalma.  The 
two  middle  ones  are  by  F.  Bassano : 
that  on  the  rt.  represents  the  victory 
gaiaed  by  Vittore  Barbaro  over  the 
Viscontis ;  that-  on  the  1.,  the  victoiy 
by  George  Comaro  over  the  Germans 
at  Cadore  in  1507-  Further  on,  on 
the  1.,  Soranzo,  in  1484,  defeating  the 
Ferrarese ;  on  the  rt.,  the  Defence  of 
Brescia  by  the  Venetians ;  and  on  the 
1.,  the  Captiu*e  of  Gallipoh,  in  1484 ; 
all  three  by  Tintoretto.  The  two  last 
compartments  are  painted  by  JPalma 
Oiovane,  and  represent,  on  rt.,  the 
Capture  of  Cremona,  by  F.  Bembo,  ia 
1427,  and,  on  1.,  of  Padua,  by  Andrea 
Gritti,  in  1509. 

Eound  the  Hall  is  the  celebrated 
frieze  of  portraits  of  the  72  Doges,  com- 
mencing from  A.D.  809,  with  the  black 
veil  covering  the  space  wliich  should 
have  been  occupied  by  the  portrait  of 
Marin  FaUer,  with  the  well-known  in- 
scription. These  portraits  are,  many  of 
them,  by  Tintoretto^  who  must  of  course 
have  painted  the  earlier  ones  from  fancy. 


A  corridor  connects  this  hall  with 
the  Sala  dello  Scrutinio,  which  occu- 
pies the  rest  of  the  faqade  towards  the 
Piazzetta.  In  this  fine  hall,  formerly 
used  to  elect  the  41  nobles,  who  after- 
wards nominated  the  Doge,  are  now 
preserved  the  MSS.  collections,  the 
early  printed  books,  and  the  Aldine 
editions  of  the  hbrary.  The  large 
painting  opposite  the  entrance  repre- 
sents a  triimiphal  arch  erected  in  1694 
to  Francesco  Morosini,  sumamed  II 
Peloponessiaco,  from  liis  having  con- 
quered the  Morea.  His  ephemeral  con- 
quest is  now  principally  recollected  as 
connected  with  the  destruction  of  the 
Parthenon.  The  three  other  sides  are 
adorned  with  historical  pictures:  be- 
ginning on  the  rt.  hand, — 

E.  wall:  1.  The  Taking  of  Zara  in 
1346,  by  Tintoretto/  2.  The  Capture 
of  Oattaro  in  1378,  by  Vicentino  ;  3.  The 
Battle  of  Lepanto  in  1571,  by  the  same. 
Over  the  window :  4.  The  DemoUtion 
of  Margaritino,  in  1571,  by  Bellotti ; 

5.  The  Victory  gained  by  Mocenigo  at 
the  Dardanelles,  by  Liberi.  On  the 
W.  wall,  or  that  towards  the  Piazzetta : 

6.  Pepin,  son  of  Cliarlemagne,  besieg- 
ing the  Rialta  in  809  ;  and  7,  his  de- 
feat in  the  Canal  Orfano,  both  by 
Vicentino;  8.  The  Egyptian  Caliph 
defeated  at  Jafia  in  1128,  by  Sante 
Beranda ;  9.  The  Capture  of  Tyre  in 
1125,  by  Aliense ;  and  10,  The  Defeat 
of  Roger  King  of  Sicily  on  the  Coast 
of  the  Morea  in  1141,  by  Marco  Vecel- 
lio.  On  the  wall  opposite  the  Arch  of 
il  Peloponessiaco  is  Palma  Giovane' s 
Last  Judgment,  one  of  his  finest  works. 

The  frieze  of  Doges  is  continued  and 
concluded  in  this  apartment.  That  of 
the  last  Doge,  Ludovico  Manin,  under 
whom  the  repubUc  perished,  has  re- 
cently been  placed  here.  There  are 
also  several  fine  historical  paintings  on 
the  ceiling,  the  best  of  which  is  an  oval 
in  the  line  of  the  middle  of  the  ceiling, 
next  to  Palma's  Last  Judgment,  by 
Francesco  Bassano,  representing  the 
Captui-e  of  Padua  from  the  Carraras  in 
1405. 

Returning  to  thevestibide  from  which 
we  entered  the  Library,  a  door  on  th«» 


330  lite.  31. —  Venice — TJie  Doge's  Palace — Paintings,     Sect.  IV. 


1.  opens  into  the  Archaoloffical  Museum, 
lately  arranged  in  a  series  of  rooms, 
which  once  formed  the  residence  of  the 
Doges. 

The  first  room,  a  kind  of  corridor, 
contains  some  ancient  marbles,  a  colos- 
sal Minerva,  much  repaired,  and  a 
statue  of  Esculapius,  discorered  at  the 
baths  of  Abano.  Opening  out  of  this 
is  the  hall  called  the  Camera  d^gli 
Scarlatiy  from  its  being  the  robing- 
room,  or  where  the  scarlet  robes  of  the 
members  of  the  Maggiore  Consiglio 
were  kept.  The  most  remarkable  object 
here  is  the  fine  chimney-piece,  riolily 
ornamented  with  sculpture,  executed 
for  Doge  Barberigo,  about  1490.  Over 
the  door  is  a  bas-relief  of  Doge  Lore-, 
dan  at  the  feet  of  the  Virgin,  and 
several  ancient  marbles,  with  copies  of 
others  made  in  the  15th  centy.  Sala 
dello  ScudOy  so  called  from  the  shield 
or  coat  of  arms  of  the  Doge  being 
placed  here  on  his  election.  The  walls 
are  covered  with  maps  of  the  countries 
explored  by  Venetian  navigators  and 
travellers :  they  were  originally  drawn 
by  the  learned  geographer  Ramusio  in 
the  16th  centy.,  but  these  having  almost 
disappeared,  the  present  ones  only  date 
from  1762.  Here  has  been  lately 
placed  the  celebrated  Mappe-monde  of 
Frate  Mauro,  a  species  of  geographical 
encyclopsedia  of  all  that  was  known  at 
the  period  of  its  construction,  1457. 
Fra  Mauro  was  a  Camaldolese  monk  of 
the  Convent  of  St.  Michael  at  Murano, 
who  appears  to  have  composed  this 
ctirious  work  for  Alphonso  V.,  King  of 
Portugal.  It  remained  at  Murano  until 
the  suppression  of  the  convent  in  1811, 
when  it  was  removed  to  the  Library  of 
St.  Mark ;  it  has  recently  been  pub- 
lished in  fac  simile  by  Viscount  de 
Santarem,  the  eminent  historian  of 
early  Portuguese  geograpliical  disco- 
veries. There  are  several  other  maps 
here :  one  worthy  of  being  remarked 
is  a  l\irkish  one  of  the  earth,  in  the 
form  of  a  heart,  by  the  Tunisian  Madgi 
Mahomed  (1559).  Alongside  is  the 
engraved  wood-block  from  which  it  was 
struck :  it  was  found  in  a  galley  cap- 
tured   bv   the    VenetianSi       Sala  del 


Bassi-rilievi. contMna  some  Greek  mar- 
bles, among  which  a  curious  inscrip- 
tion of  the  Archons  of  Athens,  and  a 
sarcophagus  with  a  bas-reUef  of  Niobe 
and  her  children.  The  two  latter 
haUs  may  be  considered  as  the  niite- 
rooms  of  the  Doge's  residence.  Open- 
ing out  of  the  Sala  dello  Scudo  are 
the  two  rooms  which  were  reaUv  occu- 
pied  by  the  Chief  of  the  Repubhc  until 
the  end  of  the  16th  centy.  In  each  is  a 
fine  Lombard  chimney-piece,  of  the  end 
of  the  15th  centy.  The  incUned  carved 
wooden  roof  in  what  was  the  Doge's 
bed-room  is  very  beautiful.  There  are 
two  other  rooms  containing  ancient 
marbles  and  bronzes,  with  some  fine 
specimens  of  Roman  architectural  de- 
coration, and  an  extensive  numismatic 
collection,  formed  out  of  several  private 
cabinets,  purchased  or  presented  by 
their  owners.  The  series  of  Venetian 
medals  and  coins,  arranged  separately, - 
is  imique.  The  last  room  of  this  suite 
of  apartments  (from  which  there  is  a 
good  view  over  the  Bridge  of  Siglis), 
and  which  opens  on  the  Scala  d'Oro, 
is  the  Camera  de^  Stucchi,  from  its 
ornaments  in  rehef  by  A.  Vittoria 
and  his  school.  On  the  walls  are 
some  paintings : — Tintoretto^  a  portrait 
of  Henry  IIL  of  France ;  Bonifacio^  the 
Adoration  of  the  Magi;  Porc^»o»e,  a  De- 
position. Herealso  is  preserved  the  mar- 
ble head  of  F.  Foscari,  all  that  remains 
of  the  statue  of  that  Doge  which  stood 
before  the  Porta  della  Carta  (see  p.  376) . 

Ascending  the  Scala  d'Oro,  a  door  on 
the  1.  opens  into  the  suite  of  rooms 
which  fill  the  upper  story  on  the  eastern 
side  of  the  Palace.     The  first  is  the 

Sala  della  JBussola,  the  ante-room  of 
the  Council  of  Ten.  At  the  entrance 
is  an  opening,  on  which  was  a  lion's 
head,  the  celebrated  Lion's  Mouth 
into  which  were  thrown  the  secret  de- 
nunciations. The  ceihng  is  painted  by 
P.  Veronese.  The  paintings  on  the 
walls  by  Aliense,  of  the  Surrender  of 
Brescia  and  Bergamo  to  the  Venetians 
in  1426  and  1427.     Out  of  this  opens 

The  Sala  del  Capi  del  Cojistglio  dei 
Died,  containing  a  fine  marble  chim- 
ney-piece, sculptured  hyPielro  da  Salo 


Vbn.  Pkov.   Route  31. —  Venice — Tlie  Doge's  Palace — Paintings.     381 


in  the  16th  centy.  The  centre  compart- 
ment of  the  ceiling  has  a  painting  of 
an  Angel  driving  away  the  Vices,  by 
Paul  Veronese. 

Sala  del  Consiglio  dei  Died.  Op- 
posite the  windows  is  the  Visit  of  the 
Wise  Men,  by  Aliense.  To  the  rt.  the 
Doge  Sebastian  Ziani  returning  from 
the  victory  obtained  over  the  Emperor 
Frederic  Barbarossa,  met  by  Pope 
Alexander  III.,  by  Leandro  Bassano^ 
who  has  introduced  his  own  portrait 
in  the  figure  carrying  the  umbrella 
behind  the  Pope.  Opposite  to  this  is 
the  Congress  held  at  Bologna  in  1529, 
by  Clement  VII.  and  Charles  V.,  when 
the  peace  of  Italy  was  restored,  by 
Marco  Vecellio.  The  frieze  is  by 
Zelotti.  In  the  very  rich  ceiling,  an 
oval,  containing  a  figure  of  an  old  man 
seated  near  a  beautiful  young  woman, 
is  a  fine  work  of  P.  Veronese.  Two 
paintings,  one  an  oval  representing 
Neptune  drawn  by  sea-horses,  and  an- 
other oblong,  Mercury  and  Peace,  are 
by  Zelotti  and  Bazzacco. 

Sala  delle  Qnattro  Porte ;  so  called 
from  the  four  doors,  designed  by  Pal- 
ladio,  remarkable  for  their  symmetry. 
The  ceiling  is  the  joint  production  of 
Palladio,  Sansovino^  and  Vittoria;  the 
two  first  having  given  the  designs, 
which  were  executed  by  the  last.  Here, 
as  in  the  subsequent  apartments,  only 
a  selection  of  the  paintings  can  be 
noticed.  Those  of  the  ceiling  are  in 
fresco,  by  J.  Tintoretto.  On  the  walls, 
to  the  rt.  as  you  enter,  is  the  Doge  Ma- 
rino Q^rimani  on  his  knees  before  Faith, 
a  great  work  of  Titian's.  The  two 
figures  at  the  side  are  hj  Marco  Vecellio  j 
and  Battle  near  Verona,  by  Contarini : 
opposite  to  this  is  the  Doge  Cicogna 
receiving  the  Persian  ambassadors  in 
1585,  and  the  arrival  of  Henry  III. 
of  Prance  at  the  Lido,  by  Andrea 
Vicentino.  The  two  first-mentioned 
pictures,  by  Contarini  and  Titian,  went 
to  Paris  in  1797,  and  were  brought 
back  in  1815. 

Sala  dei  Pregadi  or  del  Senato. 
Between  the  windows  is  a  picture  said 
to  be  by  Marco  Vecellio,  but  by  some 
attributed  to  Bonifacio:  the  Election 


of  S.  Lorenzo  Giustiniani  to  the  Patri- 
archate of  Venice  in  1451.  On  the 
wall  above  the  throne  is  a  great  work 
of  J.  Tintoretto :  the  dead  Saviour, 
with  Saints  and  two  Doges  kneeling. 
The  two  figures  at  the  side  are  also  by 
him.  Of  the  pijctures  on  the  side  oppo- 
site to  the  windows,  three — 1,  The 
Doge  Francesco  Venier  before  Venice  j 
— 2,  The  Doge  Pasquale  Cicogna  kneel- 
ing before  the  Saviour ; — 3,  The  League 
of  Cambrai,  represented  by  Venice 
seated  on  a  Lion,  daring  the  rest  of 
Europe.  These  three  paintings  are  by 
Palma  Giovane ;  the  4th,  The  Doge 
Pietro  Loredan  praying  the  Virgin 
to  help  Venice,  is  by  J.  Tintoretto. 
Above  the  door,  opposite  to  the  throne, 
is  a  fine  work  of  J.  Palma,  the  Doges 
Lorenzo  and  G-irolamo  Priuli  adoring 
the  Saviour.  The  paintings  of  the 
ceiling  are  by  different  artists ;  the  best 
is  the  oval  in  the  centre,  representing 
Venice  as  Queen  of  the  Sea,  with  many 
Deities,  by  Tintoretto. 

A  small  corridor,  on  the  same  side 
as  the  tlirone,  leads  to  the  chapel 
through  an  antechamber,  in  which, 
between  the  windows,  is  a  beautiful 
work  of  Bonifacio,  Clu-ist  driving  the 
Money-changers  from  the  Temple. 

The  Chapel  has  little  remarkable 
except  the  altar,  by  Scamozzi,  and  a 
Madonna  and  Child,  sculptured  by 
Sansovino.  This  apartment,  in  fact, 
was  merely  a  jDrivate  oratory,  the  real 
chapel  of  the  Palace  being  the  Church 
of  St.  Mark.  A  small  adjoining  stair- 
case contains  the  only  fresco  painting 
remaining  in  Venice  by  Titian.  It  is  a 
single  figure  of  St.  Christopher :  the 
head  is  fine.  Returning  to  the  Sala 
delle  Qnattro  Porte,  we  pass  into  the 

Sala  del  CoUegio.  This  was  the 
audience-chamber,  in  which  the  Doge 
and  the  Grandi,  his  Privy  Council, 
received  foreign  ambassadors.  The  pic- 
ture over  the  door,  and  the  three  to  the 
rt.  on  entering,  are  by  J.  Tintoretto. 
The  subjects  are,  —  1.  Doge  Andrea 
Gritti  before  the  Madonna  and  Child. 
— 2.  The  Marriage  of  St.  Catherine  in 
the  presence  of  Doge  Dona.  —  3. 
The  Virgin  with   Saints   and  Angels, 


382 


Eoute  31. —  Venice — The  Doge's  Palace. 


Sect.  IV. 


with  the  Doge  da  Ponte. — 4.  Doge  Al- 
vise  Mocenigo  adoring  the  Saviour,  by 
C.  Cagliari.  On  the  wall  at  the  throne 
end  of  the  chamber  is  a  splendid  work 
of  P.  Veronese — ^a  grand  but  confused 
composition  of  Venice  triumphant,  or 
theYictoryof  Curzolari  (1571),  in  which 
are  introduced  portraits  of  the  Gene- 
ral, afterwards  Doge,  Sebastian  Yenier, 
and  the  Proveditore  Agostino  Barba- 
rigo.  The  two  side  figures  in  chiar'- 
oscuro  are  also  by  P.  Veronese.  The 
picture  between  the  windows,  repre- 
senting Venice,  is  by  Carletto  Cagliari. 
The  rich  ceiling  was  designed  by 
Antonio  da  Ponte;  all  the  paintings 
are  by  P.  Veronese.  The  compartment 
nearest  to  the  door  represents  Neptune, 
Mars,  and  flying  children.  In  the 
centre  an  oval,  containing  Faith;  the 
next  is,  Venice  seated  on  the  world 
with  Justice  and  Peace.  These  com- 
partments are  surrounded  by  8  smaller, 
representing  8  Virtues  j  and  by  16 
in  green  chiar*-08Curo,  with  subjects 
from  ancient  history.  A  fine  frieze 
runs  round  the  room.  Tlie  chimney- 
piece,  with  pilasters  of  verde-antique 
and  statues,  is  by  G.  Campagna^  the 
paintings  by  P.  Veronese.  There  are 
two  doors  with  columns  of  cipoUino. 
A  door  in  the  side  of  tliis  room  opens 
into  the 

Anti- CoUegio,  a  guard-room,  con- 
taining four  splendid  paintings  in  Tin- 
toretto's best  style.  They  hang  by  the 
sides  of  the  two  doors.  The  subjects 
are.  Mercury  and  the  Graces  j  the  Forge 
of  Vulcan  j  Pallas  driving  away  Mars; 
Ariadne  crowned  by  Venus.  On  the 
wall  opposite  to  the  windows  are,  the 
Return  of  Jacob  to  the  Land  of  Canaan, 
by  J.  JSassano  /  the  Rape  of  Europa,  by 
Paul  Veronese,  a  very  fine  painting, 
which  went  to  Paris.  This  room  contains 
also  a  splendid  fireplace,  and  a  rich 
doorway  with  two  pillars,  one  of  verde- 
antico,  the  other  of  cipoUino,  said  to 
have  been  brought  from  Santa  Sofia ; 
both  were  designed  by  Scamozzi.  Over 
the  door  are  3  statues  by  A.  Vittoria. 
The  fresco  in  the  centre  of  the  ceiling 
is  by  P.  Veronese,  as  well  as  the  four 
chiar'-oscuro  paintings :  the  latter  have 


been  repainted  by  Hizzi,  From  the 
Anti-Collegio  opens  a  small  room, 
called  the  Salotto  di  Ingresso,  the  ceil- 
ing of  which  is  painted  by  Tintoretto, 
representing  Venice  offering  the  Sword 
and  the  Scales  of  Justice  to  Doge  G. 
Priuli.  From  this  room  the  visitor 
can  ascend  to 

The  famous  Sotto  Piomhi  at  the  top 
of  the  building,  as  their  name  denot^ 
"under  the  leads."  They  were  for- 
merly used  as  prisons,  and  were  repre- 
sented to  be  very  disagreeable  places 
of  residence ;  the  heat  in  summer  and 
the  cold  in  winter  being  intense.  Ja- 
copo  Casanova  was  shut  up  in  them  in 
1775.  Silvio  PelHco  was  not  confined 
here,  as  so  often  stated :  but  it  has 
been  lately  discovered  by  the  defenders 
of  the  Venetian  government  that  they 
must  have  been  rather  pleasant  abodes. 
A  few  have  been  recently  converted 
into  dwelling  apartments;  the  others 
are  used  for  lumber-rooms. 

The  Pozzi,  or  dark  cells  in  the  two 
lower  stories,  are  still  open  to  the 
visitor ;  obscure  and  intricate  passages 
lead  to  them,  and  the  lowermost  tier 
are  perfectly  dark,  and  correspond  with 
the  well-known  and  accurate  descrip- 
tion given  by  Sir  J,  C.  Hobhouse  in 
the  notes  to  the  fourth  Canto  of 
*Childe  Harold.'  They  were  all  lined 
with  wood,  but  this  wainscoting  was 
chiefly  destroyed  when  the  cells  were 
thrown  open  by  the  French. 

The  Ducal  Palace  is  separated,  on  the 
eastern  side,  by  a  canal  called  the  Sio 
delta  Paglia,  or  di  Palazzo,  from  the 
public  prisons,  the  Carceri,  a  fine  build- 
ing, wluch,  on  the  side  facing  the  palace, 
has  a  gloomy  character  suited  to  its 
destination.  They  were  built  in  1589, 
by  Antonio  da  Ponte.  The  front  to- 
wards the  Riva  dei  Schiavoni  is  of  a  less 
severe  character,  owing  to  the  arcliitect 
placing  in  this  part  of  the  building  the 
apartments  intended  for  the  Signori  di 
Notte,  the  heads  of  the  night  police, 
which  enabled  him  to  introduce  larger 
openings  than  in  the  portion  intended 
for  the  security  of  criminals.  This 
prison  can  now  contain  about  400  pri- 
soners.   It  is  a  very  handsome  buildmgy 


Ven.  Prov. 


Houte  31. —  Venice — The  Arsenal, 


383 


» 

i 


•with  rustic  arches  below,  and  above 
these  a  range  of  Doric  columns  on 
pedestals,  and  a  large  cornice  with  con- 
soles in  the  frieze. 

The  Molo  is  connected  with  the  Itiva 
dei  Schiavoni  by  the  Ponte  delta  JPaglia; 
standing  on  which  and  looking  up  the 
Bio  di  Palazzo,  a  covered  bridge  is 
seen  at  an  unusual  height  above  the 
water.  This  is  the  celebrated  Fonte 
dei  Saspirif  or  Bridge  of  Sighs.  It 
served  as  a  communication  between 
the  Ducal  Palace  and  the  prisons  by 
a  covered  gallery,  the  interior  being 
divided  into  a  double  passage.  Pri- 
soners, when  taken  out  of  the  prisons  to 
die,  were  conducted  across  this  gallery 
to  hear  their  sentences,  from  which 
they  were  led  to  execution:  hence  its 
name. 

The  Arsenal.  The  fifth  bridge  on 
the  Riva  dei  Schiavoni,  after  crossing 
the  Ponte  deUa  Paglia,  is  a  small  sus- 
pension one.  This  crosses  the  canal 
leading  to  the  Arsenal.  Just  before 
you  reach  this  bridge  a  passage  on  the 
1.  leads  to  the  gates  of  the  Arsenal. 
If  we  consider  the  size  of  the  vessels 
when  Venice  was  a  naval  power,  the 
extent,  size,  and  completeness  of  the 
basins,  yards,  and  buildings  of  the 
arsenal  must  convey  a  high  idea  of  the 
greatness  of  the  power  of  the  RepubUc. 
Of  late  years  there  has  been  some  diffi- 
culty in  obtaining  admission  to  see  it 
from  the  Austrian  authorities.  Re- 
cently, however,  foreigners  have  been 
admitted  from  9  tUl  1  o'clock,  on  pre- 
sentation of  their  passports. 

The  arsenal  attained  its  present 
dimensions,  nearly  2  miles  in  circuit, 
between  1307  and  1320.  Walls  and 
towers,  battlemented  and  crenelated, 
siUTOund  it.  They  are  attributed  to 
Andrea  Fisano.  The  principal  gate- 
way, erected  in  1460,  as  appears  from 
an  inscription  upon  the  column  on  the 
1.  side,  is  an  adaptation  of  a  Roman 
triumphal  arch.  An  attic  wdth  a 
pediment  was  added  in  1581,  sur- 
mounted by  a  statue  of  St.  Giustina, 
by  Ghirolamo  Ca/m/pagna^  in  comme- 
moration of  the  great  battle  of  Le- 


panto,  fought  on  the  festival  of  that 
Saint,  7  Oct.  1571.  Near  this  en- 
trance stand  the  two  colossal  marble 
lions  brought  by  Morosini  from  Athens 
in  1687.  The  most  remarkable  of  them, 
that  which  is  erect,  stood  at  the  en- 
trance of  the  Pirseus,  which  from  this 
image  was  commonly  called  the  Porto 
Leone.  It  is  of  very  ancient  workman- 
ship, and  it  has  been  conjectured,  upon 
somewhat  dubious  grounds,  to  have 
been  originally  a  memorial  of  the  battle 
of  Marathon.  Engraven  on  this  lion*s 
shoulders  and  flanks  are  some  Runic 
inscriptioiis,  which  have  so  much  ex- 
ercised the  learning,  and  baffled  the 
penetration  of  antiquaries.  Professor 
Rahn  of  Copenhagen  supposes  they 
record  the  capture  of  Athens  and  the 
suppression  of  a  revolt  in  the  reign  of 
the  Emperor  Michad  (a.d.  1409),  and 
contain  the  name  of  Harold  the  Tall. 
The  head  of  the  second  of  the  lions 
is  a  restoration. 

The  noble  armouiy  was  in  part  dis- 
persed by  the  French.  It  has  recently 
been  re-arranged,  and  still  contains 
some  very  interesting  objects,  many 
of  which  were  brought  from  the  ar- 
moury at  the  Ducal  Palace. — The  great 
standard  of  the  Turkish  Admiral,  taken 
in  the  battle  of  Lepanto,  of  red  and 
yellow  silk.  Much  fine  and  curious 
ancient  armour,  interesting  both  from 
its  workmanship  and  the  historical  per- 
sonages to  whom  it  belonged.  Among 
those  which  have  more  claim  to  be  con- 
sidered genuine  are  the  shield,  helmet, 
and  sword  of  the  Doge  Sebastiano 
Ziani,  1172-1178.  Upon  the  first  is 
represented  the  Rape  of  Helen  :  upon 
the  last,  an  Arabic  cipher.  The  armour 
of  Gattamelata,  for  man  and  horse, 
of  fine  Milanese  workmanship  of  the 
15th  centy.  The  full  suit  of  Henry 
IV.  of  France,  given  by  him  to  the 
republic  in  1603.  This  was  brought 
from  the  Palazzo  Ducale.  The  sword 
was  stolen  in  1797.  ArhalHes,  or 
cross-bows,  of  remarkable  power.  Hel- 
mets and  shields  of  the  ancient  Vene- 
tian soldiery,  and  of  very  strange  forms. 
Quivers  yet  filled  with  arrows,  perhaps 
used  by  the  Stradiotes  and  other  semi- 


384 


Route  31. —  Venke — Arsenal  and  Docliyard.  Sect.  IV. 


barbarian  troops  of  the  republic.  A 
press  full  of  instruments  of  murder 
and  torture.  A  species  of  spring  pistol, 
in  the  shape  of  a  key,  with  which  it  is 
said  that  Francesco  di  Carrara  was  ac- 
customed to  kill  the  objects  of  his  sus- 
picion, by  shooting  poisoned  needles  at 
them.  In  front  of  tliis  press  are  some 
iron  helmets  of  rough  workmanship, 
without  apertures  for  the  eyes  or 
mouth,  so  that  the  wretch  enclosed  in 
them  could  neither  see  nor  breathe. 
Such  being  the  case,  it  has  been  oddly 
conjectured  that  they  were  intended 
for  the  protection  of  the  warriors  who 
stood  on  the  prows  of  the  Venetian 
galleys.  Others  suppose  that  they 
were  used  as  instruments  of  torture, 
or  of  restraint  equivalent  to  torture, 
a  conjecture  less  improbable.  Ancient 
artillery  and  fire-arms:  a  springal  of 
iron,  not  cast,  but  composed  of  fifteen 
pieces  riveted  together,  and  covered 
with  exceedingly  elegant  arabesques, 
made  by  the  son  of  the  Doge  Pasquale 
Cicogna,  who  flourished  towards  the 
close  of  the  16th  centy.  This  also 
formed  part  of  the  ducal  armoury. 
This  armoury  also  contains  the  mo- 
nument raised  by  the  E-epubhc  in  1795 
to  the  High- Admiral  Emo  (died  1792). 
The  bas-rehefs  from  liis  tomb,  repre- 
senting naval  subjects,  were  brought 
from  the  church  of  the  Servites,  when 
it  was  pulled  down.  The  memorial,  a 
rostral  column  surmounted  by  a  bust, 
was  made  for  the  place  where  it  now 
stands,  and  is  interesting  as  being 
amongst  the  earhest  works  of  Canova, 
executed  at  Home  in  1795.  It  is  ex- 
quisitely finished.  There  is  also  here  a 
statue  of  Yittorio  Pisani,  of  the  14th 
centy. 

The  arsenal  contains  four  basins,  two 
large  and  two  small.  These  are  nearly 
surrounded  by  dry  docks,  building 
sUps,  and  workshops.  The  roofs  are 
supported  by  ancient  arches,  lofty  and 
massive,  some  circular,  some  pointed, 
standing  upon  huge  cylindrical  pillars, 
with  angular  leafy  capitals.  The  co- 
lumns are  sculptured  with  numerous 
shields  and  inscriptions,  some  of  which 
are  in  tJie   ancient  Venetian   dialect. 


The  rope-walk,  the  Corderia  della 
Tana,  dates  from  1579,  having  been 
erected  by  Doge  N.  da  Ponte :  it  is  3  46 
yards  long,  and  is  supported  by  92 
Doric  pillars. 

The  model-room  still  contains  some 
curious  materials  for  the  history  of 
naval  architecture.  The  collection  was 
once  exceedingly  rich  and  important, 
but  the  revolutionists  at  the  close  of 
the  last  century  destroyed  a  great 
portion.  They  also  stripped  of  its  orna- 
ments the  celebrated  Sucentoro,  the 
vessel  from  which  the  doge  annually, 
on  Ascension  Day,  espoused  the  Adri- 
atic, and  which,  after  having  succes- 
sively served  as  a  gunboat  and  a  prison, 
was  burned  in  1824.  A  model  of  it  is 
preserved  here.  The  ceremony  of  the 
espousal,  which  took  place  off  the  Lido 
entrance  to  the  Laguna,  and  was  in- 
tended as  a  continued  assertion  of  the 
right  of  the  repubUc  to  the  dominion 
of  the  Adriatic,  has  been  traced  back 
to  the  time  of  Doge  Pietro  Orseolo 
in  998. 

Long  before  the  actual  fall  of  Yenice, 
the  arsenal  displayed  all  the  decre- 
pitude of  the  state.  When  the  French 
entered  Yenice,  they  found  thirteen 
men-of-war  and  seven  frigates  on  the 
stocks.  This  enumeration  seems  re- 
spectable ;  but  of  these  vessels,  none 
of  which  were  completed  (nor  were 
there  any  sufficient  stores  or  materials 
for  completing  them),  two  had  been 
begun  in  1752,  two  in  1743,  two  in 
1732,  and  the  remainder  at  subsequent 
periods,  so  that,  if  the  one  most  ad- 
vanced could  have  been  launched,  she 
would  have  attained  the  respectable 
and  mature  age  of  75  years.  At  pre- 
sent, the  business  of  the  arsenal  is  just 
kept  ahve,  affording  a  scanty  memorial 
of  the  operations  which  so  struck  the 
fancy  of  Dante  as  to  furnish  the  sub- 
ject for  one  of  liis  most  strange  and 
striking  similes : — 

**  Quale  neir  arzank  de'  Viniziani 
] tulle  r  inVerno  la  tenace  i>ece 
A  rimpalmar  li  legni  lor  non  sani 

Che  navicar  uon  ponno ;  e'n  quella  vece 
Chi  fa  8UO  legno  nuovo,  e  chi  ristoppa 
Le  ooste  a  quel  che  piii  via^jsri  fece ; 
Chi  ril^lte  da  proda,  e  chi  da  poppa  ; 


Venetian  Prov.     Eouie  31. —  Venice— -Canal  Grande^ Palaces,     385 


i 

\ 


Altri  fa  remi,  e  altri  volge  sarte ; 
Chi  terzeruolo  ed  artimon  rintoppa  : 

Tal,  non  per  faooo,  ma  per  divina  arte, 
Bolfta  laggiuso  una  pegola  speasa." 

Inferno,  xxi.  7-18. 

•*  As  in  the  arsenal  of  Venice  boils 

Tenacioas  pitch  in  winter,  to  repair 
The  bark  disabled  by  long  watery  toils; 
For  since  to  venture  forth  they  are  afraid, 
One  here  a  vessel  builds,  another  there 
Caitlks    that  which    many  voyages   hath 
made; 
One  strikes  the  prow— one  hammers  at  the 
poop,— 
One  mends  a  main,  and  one  a  mizen  sail, — 
One  shapes  an  oar,  another  twists  a  rope ; 
So,  not  by  fire  beneath,  but  art  divine, 
Boil'd  up  thick  pitch  throngliout  the  gloomy 
vale."  Wright's  Dante. 

Canal  Grande,  Palaces. — We  will 
suppose  the  traveller  to  embark  in  a 
gondola  at  the  stairs  of  tlie  Piazzetta  on 
the  Molo,  and  to  proceed  up  the  Canal 
Grande  or  Canalazzo ;  and  will  pass  in 
reriew  the  more  remarkable  palaces,  as 
far  as  the  hmited  nature  of  this  work 
will  allow.  Nearly  opposite  to  the  Piaz- 
zetta is  the  island  and  church  of  San 
QiorgiOi  and  adjoining  this,  and  en- 
closed by  a  sort  of  mole  with  a  lantera 
tower  at  each  end,  is  the  original  Porto 
Franco,  whose  limits  are  now  extended 
to  a  considerable  circuit  round  Venice. 
To  the  westward  of  this  is  the  long 
canal  and  Island  of  La  Giudecca. 

On  entering  the  Grand  Canal,  the 
Dogama  del  Mare,  built  in  1682,  is  on 
the  1.  hand,  on  the  point  of  land  di- 
viding the  Grand  Canal  from  that  of 
the  Giudecca:  beyond  this  is  the  Ch, 
of  S.  Maria  della  Saltde.  On  the  rt., 
afber  passing  the  gardens  of  the  Koyal 
Palace,  and  the  pavilion,  in  a  Greek 
style,  built  by  Napoleon,  at  the  en- 
trance of  the  canal  is  tlie  Palazzo 
Gmstiniam,  now  the  Albergo  delV 
Surojpa,  and  beyond  it  the  Palazzo 
TrhveSy  formerly  Brno,  containing  a 
collection  of  pictures  by  modem  artists, 
and  two  fine  colossal  statues  by  Ca- 
nova,  of  Hector  and  Ajax,  A  little 
farther  is  the  Palazzo  Contarini  Fasan, 
which,  although  it  has  only  two  win- 
dows in  front,  with  these  beautiful  bal- 
conies, is  an  exquisite  specimen  of  the 
richest  Venetian  Gothic  of  the  14th 
oenty.  Further  on,  on  the  same  side,  is 
the  Palazzo  Ferro  of  the  same  period. 


and  the  Palazzo  Cor»er,  built  by  Sanso' 
mnoy  in  1532.  The  fagade  has  three 
orders — Doric,  Ionic,  and  Composite. 
It  is  now  occupied  by  the  Civil  Go- 
vernor of  the  province.  Further  on, 
but  on  the  1.,  incrusted  with  coloured 
marbles,  and  bearing  the  inscription 
"  Genio  Urbis  Johannes  Darius,"  is 
the  Palazzo  Dario,  in  the  style  of  the 
Lomhardi,  a  fine  specimen  of  the  deco- 
rated fronts  of  the  15th  cent.,  and  con- 
tiguous to  it  the  P.  Manzoni.  Beyond, 
with  a  quay  in  front,  is  the  Accademia 
delle  belle  Arti  and  the  ch.  oiLa  Carita; 
opposite  to  which  is  the  Tragetto  or  ferry 
of  San  Vitale,  once  the  busiest  ferry  on 
the  Grand  Canal,  over  which  an  iron 
bridge  has  been  recently  erected  by  Mr. 
Neville,  an  Enghsh  engineer. 

Proceeding — on  the  rt.,  P,  Cavalli, 
now  the  residence  of  the  Count  de 
Chambord  (Hem*i  Y.),  with  its  fine 
Gothic  windows  of  the  15th  centy. ; 
P.  Giustiniani  Lolin,  of  the  17th, 
by  Longhena.  On  the  1.,  P.  Con- 
tarini degli  Sorigni,  with  three  orders 
— Eustic,  Ionic,  and  Corinthian — by 
Scamozzi.  P.  JRezzonico,  Doric,  Ionic, 
and  Corinthian,  by  Longhena.  Two 
palaces  of  the  Giustiniani  family,  in 
the  Venetian  style  of  the  15th  centy. 
P.  Foscari,  built  towards  the  end 
of  the  15th  centy.,  and  attributed 
to  Bartolommeo  Bon,  the  architect 
of  the  Doge's  palace  and  of  the  Porta 
della  Carta.  Here,  in  1574,  Francis  I. 
of  France  was  lodged:  it  being  then 
considered  as  the  Palace  which,  in  all 
Venice,  was  best  adapted  for  the  recep- 
tion of  royalty.  The  tragic  history  of 
the  Doge  Foscari  and  his  son  is  well 
known.  They  were  not  a  powerfiil 
family,  for  the  power  of  a  family  de- 
pended upon  its  numbers,  and  they 
were  few  j  hence,  possibly,  the  extreme 
harshness  and  rigour  exercised  against 
them  received  so  Uttle  mitigation.  This 
beautiful  edifice,  which  was  falling  into 
ruin,  had  been  purchased  by  the  Mu- 
nicipality of  Venice  to  place  in  it  a 
school  of  arts,  but  it  has  been  seized 
upon  by  the  niihtary  authorities,  and 
converted  into  a  barrack,  tenanted  by 
an  Austrian  regiment,  from  whom  its 


386 


Route  31. —  Venice — Palaces, 


Sect.  IV. 


decorations  haye  much  suffered.  Next 
to  the  P.  Foscari,  but  separated  from,  it 
bj  the  canal  or  Kio  di  San  Fantaleone, 
is  the 

P.  Salbi,  by  Aless.  Tittoria^  in 
1582,  with  three  orders — Kustic,  Ionic, 
and  Composite.  Behind  it  is  seen 
the  Campanile  of  the  church  of  the 
Fran.  The  temporary  building  for  the 
public  authorities,  who  distributed  the 
prizes  at  the  Ebgattas  on  the  Grand 
Canal,  was  always  erected  by  the  side 
of  the  Balbi  Palace,  as  it  commands  a 
Tiew  of  both  reaches  of  the  great  canal. 
On  the  rt.  hand,  after  the  P.  Q-iustiniani 
Lolin,  are  the  large  P.  Grassi^  now  the 
property  of  the  Viennese  banker,  Sina, 
the  P.  Morosini^  and  the  P.  Contarini^ 
built  between  1504  and  1546.  The  ar- 
chitect is  unknown,  but  seems  to  be  of 
the  school  of  the  Lombardi.  The  eleva- 
tion has  much  fancy  and  elegance.  The 
P.  Comer- Sjnnellif  also  by  Lomha/rdo. 
On  the  1.,  P.  Pisani  a  8.  Polo,  bmlt 
at  the  begioning  of  the  15th  centy. ; 
arabesque  G-othic,  but  the  latest  of  its 
kind.  In  this  palace  was  the  celebrated 
"Family  of  Darius,"  by  Paolo  Veronese, 
purchased  for  our  National  Gallery  at  the 
price  of  13,560Z.  The  Pisani,  though  be- 
longing to  the  second  class  of  Venetian 
nobility,  and  strangers  by  origin,  were 
amongst  the  most  fllustrious  families  of 
the  republic.  To  this  family  belonged 
Vittorio  Pisani,  the  great  naval  com- 
mander, who  died  in  1380,  just  after 
his  skill  and  valour  had  saved  the  re- 
pubUc  from  imminent  peril.  Palazzo 
Orimani  a  San  Toma,  a  noble  build- 
ing of  the  16th  centy.,  probably  by 
Sanmiohelif  now  dismantled.  P.  JBar- 
herigo  delta  Terrazza :  the  facade  and 
entrance  are  in  the  Eio  di  S.  Polo ; 
only  a  wing  and  terrace  are  on  the 
Grand  Canal.  The  Barberigo  collection 
of  pictures,  so  celebrated  for  its  many 
Titians,  hais  been  sold  to  the  Eussian 
Government. 

On  the  rt.  P.  Gfrimani,  now  the  post- 
office,  from  the  designs  of  Sanmicheli, 
who  unfortunately  died  before  it  was 
completed,  in  consequence  of  which 
some  alterations  for  the  worse  were 
m  J^de  in  the  design.     It  consists  of  three 


Corinthian  orders  exquisitely  worked. 
It  is  one  of  the  finest  of  the  more 
modem  palaces.  Sanmicheli,  who  was 
employed  to  build  it  by  Girolamo, 
father  of  the  Doge  Marino  Grimani, 
had  great  difficulties  to  contend  with, 
in  consequence  of  the  irregular  form 
of  the  site,  of  which  the  smallest  side 
fronts  the  Grand  Canal.  Being  now  a 
pubHc  building,  it  is  kept  in  good  repair. 
The  Grimanis  were  originally  Vicentine 
nobles,  but  after  their  aggregation  to 
Venice  they  rose  to  high  dignities  in 
the  state.  Two  Doges  were  of  this 
family,  Antonio  and  Marino.  Upon 
the  election  of  the  latter,  1595,  his 
duchess,  a  lady  of  the  Morosini  fa- 
mily, was  inaugurated  with  great 
splendour,  according  to  the  custom  of 
Venice,  in  the  case  of  a  married  doge. 
She  was  conducted  from  her  palace  to 
San  Marco,  clad  in  cloth  of  gold,  wear- 
ing a  golden  crown,  and,  stepping  into 
the  Bucentoro,  she  was  thus  brought  to 
the  piazza,  where  she  landed,  amidst 
the  strains  of  martial  music  and  peals 
of  artillery.  In  the  ducal  pal&ce  she 
was  enthroned  amidst  her  ladies,  and 
the  balls  and  festivals  of  rejoicing 
lasted  for  weeks  afterwards.  Pope 
Clement  VIII.  presented  her  with 
the  golden  rose,  blessed  by  the  pontiff 
every  year.  According  to  the  usage 
of  the  court  of  Bome,  this  rose  is 
given  only  to  sovereign  princes,  and  the 
gift  awakened,  if  not  the  suspicion, 
at  least  the  caution  of  the  senate.  It 
had  hitherto  escaped  notice  that,  al- 
though the  doge  wore  only  the  beretta, 
the  crown  of  lus  consort  was  closed  op 
arched,  which  was  considered  as  the 
peculiar  privilege  of  sovereign  princes 
not  owning  any  superior,  and  hence 
denied  to  the  dukes  of  Milan,  or  the 
electors  of  the  empire.  The  rose  was, 
by  the  order  of  the  senate,  taken  from 
the  Dogaressa,  and  deposited  in  the 
treasury  of  St.  Mark :  and  the  corona- 
tion of  her  successors  no  longer  took 
place.  Opposite,  and  on  the  l.-hand 
side  of  the  canal,  the  P.  Dona,  of  the 
Bisantino-Lombard  style  of  the  12th 
centy.,  and  the  Palazzo  Tiepolo,  of 
which  the  architecture  is  of  the  16th 


Venetian  Prov.      Rovte  31. —  Venice — Palaces — RiaUo, 


387 


1 


centy.  The  facade  is  of  the  Doric, 
Ionic,  and  Composite  orders,  extending 
to  the  Fahriche  of  the  Mialto. 

Beyond  the  P.  Grimani  on  the  rt.  of 
the  cAnal  is  the  Palazzo  JFarseUi,  now 
the  Oongregazione  Municipale :  on  the 
staurcase  are  two  baskets  of  fruit,  abnost 
the  earliest  works  of  Canova;  executed 
when  he  was  fifteen.  Beyond  this,  P. 
Ix>redan,  of  the  same  style,  now  the 
H6t«l  de  la  Ville ;  P.  Mocenigo, — ^here 
Ix>rd  Byron  lived  diuring  his  resi- 
dence at  Venice,  the  writing-table  of 
the  poet  is  still  preserved  and  shown 
as  a  precious  reUc.  The  P.  Bembo, 
a  fine  building,  erected  between  1350 
and  1380;  on  the  site  behind  stood 
the  P.  Dandolo,  bmlt  by  the  Doge 
Henry  Dandolo,  of  which  a  small 
but  rich  Gk)thic  edifice  of  the  13th 
centy.  may  have  formed  a  part  ; 
and  last  of  aU,  before  reaching  the 
Bridge  of  the  Bialto,  the  Palazzo 
Mawmf  by  Sansovino,  restored  by 
Seha,  It  has  a  Doric,  Ionic,  and  Co- 
rinthian front.  It  belonged  to  the  last 
Doge  of  Venice. 

The  land  on  the  rt.  hand  in  pass- 
ing up  the  canal  forms  the  island  of 
JSan  MarcOf  that  on  the  1.  the  island 
of  the  Rialto  i  and  at  this  part  of 
the  canal,  near  the  Bialto  bridge,  on 
the  1.  hand  is  the  spot  on  which 
Venice  as  a  city  first  existed.  Even 
till  the  IBth  centy.,  and  perhaps  later, 
"  Rivo  alto"  was  considered  as  the  city 
in  all  legal  documents,  and  distin- 
guished as  such  from  the  State  of 
Venice:  and  of  all  the  islands  upon 
which  the  city  now  stands,  it  is  the 
largest.  After  the  population  was 
extended  into  the  other  quarters, 
the  Bialto  continued  to  be  the  seat 
of  all  the  estabUshments  connected 
with  trade  and  commerce.  The  Pah- 
hriche,  a  series  of  buildings,  covering, 
perhaps,  as  much  as  a  fifth  of  the 
island,  and  partly  connected  by  ar- 
cades, were,  employed  as  warehouses 
and  custom-houses ;  the  exchange  being 
held  in  the  piazza,  opposite  the  church 
of  SanJacopo  (the  first  church  built  in 
Venice),  an  irregular  and  now  a  neg- 
lected quadrangle.     The  whole  place 


was  the  resort  of  the  mercantile  com- 
munity ;  but  if  you  seek  to  realize  the 
locality  of  Shylock  and  Antonio,  you 
must  station  yourself  in  the  double 
portico  at  the  end  of  the  piazza  oppo- 
site to  the  church,  that  bemg  the  spot 
where  the  "  Banco  Giro"  was  held, 
and  where  the  merchants  transacted 
the  business  of  most  weight  and  conse- 
quence. SabeUico  tells  us  that  this 
"nobilissima  piazza"  was  crowded  from 
morning  to  night. 

In  the  night  of  the  10th  of  January, 
1513,  a  fire  broke  out  which  destroyed 
all  the  buildings  as  well  as  then*  con- 
tents. The  senate  immediately  decreed 
the  reconstruction  of  the  commercial 
buildings,  and  they  were  intrusted  to 
Antonio  ScarpagninOy  whose  designs 
were  preferred  to  those  of  the  cele- 
brated Prate  Giocondo.  He  was  an 
artist  of  small  reputation ;  and  Vasari 
speaks  most  contemptuously  of  liis  pro- 
ductions. The  Fahbriche  are  now  prin- 
cipally converted  into  private  houses. 
Many  portions  have  been  demolished ; 
all  are  neglected  and  in  decay;  and 
the  merchants  no  longer  congregate 
here,  but  transact  their  business  in  their 
counting-houses . 

There  were  several  churches  upon 
the  Bialto.  San  Jacopo  is  desecrated  : 
San  CHovannif  by  Scarpignano,  is  not 
ill-planned.  Tlie  only  building  on  the 
island  now  possessing  any  splendour  is 
the  Palazzo  de^  Camerlinghiy  only  one 
side  of  which  is  upon  the  Grand  Canal: 
to  examine  its  architecture  it  will  be 
necessary  to  land. 

At  the  foot  of  this  Palazzo  is  the 
Ponte  di  Bialto.  This  very  celebrated 
edifice  was  begun  in  1588,  in  the  reign 
of  the  Doge  Pasquale  Cicogna,  Antonio 
da  Ponte  being  the  architect.  His 
design  was  preferred  to  those  by  Pal- 
ladio  and  Scamozzi.  Cicognara  says 
he  is  not  sufficiently  estimated ;  but 
this  edifice  is  more  remarkable  for  its 
solidity  and  originaUty  than  for  its 
beauty.  There  was  an  older  bridge  of 
wood,  which  was  replaced  by  the  present 
structure.  SabeUico  informs  us  it  was 
so  constantly  thronged  by  passengers 
that  there  was  hardly  any  hour  of  the 


388 


EoiLte  31. —  Venice — Fondachi — Palaces, 


Sect.  IV. 


day  when  you  could  get  along  without 
much  difficulty.  It  waa  intended  that 
the  hridge  should  have  been  much 
more  adorned  than  it  is  at  present. 
The  ornaments  which  it  now  exhibits 
are  confined  to  the  statues,  in  the  span- 
di'ils,  of  the  Angel  and  the  Virgin,  or 
the  Annunciation,  and  of  the  patrons 
of  "Venice,  St.  Theodore  and  St.  Mark. 

The  span  of  the  arch  is  about  91  ft., 
and  the  Jieight  from  the  level  of  the 
water  is  24|  ft.  The  width  of  the 
bridge  is  72  ft.,  and  this  width  is  di- 
vided longitudinally  into  5  parts  ;  that 
is,  into  3  streets  or  passages,  and  2 
rows  of  shops.  The  middle  passage  is  21 
ft.  8  in.  wide,  and  the  2  side  ones  near 
11  ft.    The  number  of  shops  on  it  is  24. 

The  palace  of  the  Treasurers,,  or 
dei  Camerlinghi,  now  the  THbunale 
d*Appelloy  is  on  the  1.  hand  imme- 
diately after  having  passed  through 
the  bridge.  It  was  built  by  Guglielmo 
Hergamasco  in  1525.  It  is  irregular  in 
figure  owing  to  its  site,  but  its  architec- 
ture is  much  to  be  admired. 

Opposite,  on  the  rt.  hand,  is  the 
Fondaco  dei  Tedeschi.  The  Fondachi 
form  a  curious  portion  of  the  reminis- 
cences of  the  ancient  commercial  pros- 
perity of  Venice.  They  were  the  fac- 
tories of  the  difierent  nations,  very 
similar  in  object  to  some  still  possessed 
by  the  Franks  in  the  Levant,  or  by  the 
Europeans  at  Canton,  where  the  mer- 
chants of  each  language  and  race  could 
dwell  together  under  a  domestic  juris- 
diction ;  where  their  business  could  be 
transacted,  and  their  goods  safely 
housed.  It  is  hardly  necessary  to  ob- 
serve that  they  have  long  since  ceased 
to  be  apphed  to  their  original  use. 
Some  are  converted  into  pubHc  offices, 
but,  generally  speaking,  they  are  falling 
into  decay.  The  finest  and  the  best 
preserved  is  the  Fondaco  dei  Tedes- 
chif  near  the  focrb  of  the  Kialto.  .  It 
was  built  some  time  after  1505,  when 
the  older  Fondaco  was  burnt  down. 
The  architect  was  a  certain  Oirolamo 
Tedesco^  of  whose  history  nothing  else 
is  known.  Coupled  arches  and  arched 
porticoes  mark  it  as  one  of  the  diversi- 
fied channels  by  which   tlio  Veneto- 


Gh>thic  style  passed  into  the  classical 
style.  It  has  now  ^a  somewhat  heavy- 
character  ;  but  its  walls  were  originally 
covered  with  frescoes  by  Gfiorgione, 
CarpacciOf  and  others,  which  have 
long  since  disappeared.  The  Museo 
Correr,  now  the  Museo  Veneio,  de- 
scribed at  p.  389,  has  been  recently 
removed  here. 

On  the  1.  are  the  Fabbriche  Nuove  di 
Mialto,  built  by  Sansovino  in  1555. 
The  fa9ade  has  three  orders,  Rustic, 
Doric,  and  Ionic. 

On  the  rt.  P.  Valmarana,  P.  MicJUel 
delle  Colonne^  and  P.  Sagredo,  of  the 
13th  centy.,  and  beyond 

The  Ca>sa  or  Ca'  d'  Oro,  perhaps  the 
most  remarkable  of  the  Pala<jes  of  the 
15th  cent  v.,  and  of  which  the  ornaments 
are  the  most  in  the  oriental  style,  par- 
ticularly in  the  ogee  or  contraated  tuma 
of  the  arches.  It  was  gUded,  and  hence, 
according  to  some,  its  name;  others 
say  it  was  called  after  the  Doro  family. 
It  was  much  dilapidated,  but  a  few 
years  since  underwent  a  complete 
restoration  by  the  proprietor,  MadJle. 
TagHoni,  the  celebrated  dancer:  it  now 
belongs  to  the  Jew  banker  Herrera. 

On  the  1.  hand  are  the  Palazzo 
Comer  della  Begina,  now  Monte  di 
Pieta,  built  by  Rossi  in  1724,  and  the 
vast  Palazzo  PesarOy  now  Bevilacqua, 
built  by  LongTiena. 

On  the  rt.  are  the  Palazzo  Grrimani, 
attributed  to  SanmicheU,  and  the  Pa- 
lazzo Vendramin  Calergi.  This,  which 
in  the  16th  centy.  was  reckoned  as  the 
very  finest  of  the  Venetian  palaces,  was 
built  in  14«81  at  the  expense  of  the  Doge 
Andrea  Loredano,  by  Pietro  Lomha/irdo. 
But  the  circumstances  of  the  family 
compelled  them  to  ahenate  it,  and 
it  was  sold  in  1681  to  the  Duke  of 
Brunswick  for  60,000  ducats ;  and  by 
the  latter,  not  long  afterwards,  to  the 
Calergis,  and  afterwards  to  the  Vendra-  . 
mins.  It  now  belongs  to  the  Count  de 
Chambord.  The  order  is  Corinthian ; 
but  columns  are  placed  as  muUions  in 
the  great  arched  windows  which  fill  the 
front.  It  contains  some  works  of  art, 
amongst  which  are  statues  of  Adam, 
and  Fiie  by  Tullio  Lombardx)^  removed 


Venetian  Pro  v.        Eoute  31. —  Venice — Museo  Correr, 


389 


from  the  Vendramin  Mausoleum  in 
San  Giovanni  e  Paolo,  and  several  in- 
teresting relics  of  the  elder  branch  of 
the  House  of  Bourbon.    On  the  1,  is  the 

Fondaco  de  Turchi,  in  progress  of 
rebuilding  ;  it  dates  fi^m  the  11th 
cent.,  and,  having  belonged  to  the 
House  of  Este,  was  purchased  by 
the  Repubhc  to  form  a  foctory  for  the 
Turkish  merchants  :  it  is  now  the  go- 
vernment tobacco  warehouse.  Imme- 
diately beyond  it  is 

The  Museo  Correr,  or  Municipal  Mu- 
seum, on  the  G-rand  Canal,  not  far  from 
the  rly.  stat,,  only  open  on  Wed.  and 
Sat.}  now  the  Museo  Veneto,  and  in 
progress  of  being  removed  to  the 
Fondaco  dei  Tedeschi  (p.  388). 
This  fine  collection,  the  result  of 
individual  exertion,  was  formed  by 
Count  Correr,  who  bequeathed  it  to 
the  Municipality  of  Venice  about  25 
years  ago,  and  by  whom  it  is  now 
very  hberally  supported.  There  is  a  very 
good  catalogue  by  the  late  Director, 
Signer  Lazzari.  It  consists  of  a  series 
of  ancient  miarbles,  a  collection  of  arms, 
and  a  gaUery  of  pictures  arranged  in 
six  rooms  on  the  ground  floor,  forming 
the  Pinacoteca,  among  which  may  be 
cited — Stefano  Pievano,  a  Madonna 
(1369) ;  Mantegna,i\\Q  Transfiguration ; 
O.  Bellini,  portraits  of  Doges  G, 
Mocenigo  and  F.  Foscari  ;  and  Marco 
JPalmezzano,  Christ  bearing  the  Cross. 
On  the  second  floor  are  the  library ;  a 
good  ornithological  collection  formed 
by  Count  Contarini;  a  series  of  en- 
gravings, amongst  them  the  very 
curious  one  on  wood  of  Venice,  dating 
from  A.D.  1500 — it  is  generally  sup- 
posed to  have  been  executed  for  the 
German  banker  Kolb,  by  Giacomo 
de'  Barbari,  and  consists  of  6  pieces 
juxtaposed ;  amongst  the  sculptures 
a  bust  of  Paolo  Greggo,  governor 
of  Negropont  in  1470,  by  Tiziano 
Arpetti.  In  one  of  the  ante-chambers 
hangs  the  faded  red  flag  of  the  Bucen- 
toro,  embroidered  on  which  are  the 
Virgin  and  Lion  of  St.  Mark.  Some 
interesting  pictures  of  old  Venetian  mas- 
ters (the  pretended  portrait  of  Cesar 
Borgia  by  L.  da  Vinci) ;   an  extensive 


series  of  original  drawings,  amongst 
which  are  several  by  P.  Veronese,  Ouer- 
cino,  Longhi,  &c. ;  the  fine  collection  of 
Correr  coins  and  medals,  and  that  of 
manuscripts,  amongst  which  are  worthy 
of  special  notice,  some  canzoni  of  Pe- 
trarch, and  the  Portulano,  or  collection 
of  marine  charts,  by  Pietro  Visconti  of 
Genoa,  executed  in  1318,  one  of  the 
oldest  works  of  this  kind  in  existence 
with  a  certain  date.  The  collection  of 
majohca  in  this  museum  is  one  of  the 
finest  for  its  size  in  Europe;  par- 
ticularly worthy  of  notice  are  232,  233, 
234,  by  Andreoli  or  Maestro  G^eorgio 
of  Goibbio  ;  a  series  of  ten  specimens, 
Maestro  Xanto  of  Urbino  (1531-34)  ; 
nine  by  Orazio  Fontana  of  Castel 
Durante,  the  supposed  author  of  the 
celebrated  medicine-pots  once  in  the 
Pharmacy,  now  at  Loreto;  and  17 
plates  of  Faenza  ware,  dated  1681, 
perhaps  the  choicest  in  the  collection. 
There  are  also  several  good  specimens 
of  Murano  painted  glass,  of  Limoges 
and  German  enamels.  In  the  Museo 
Coppelli,  bequeathed  to  this  establish- 
ment, are  fragments  of  the  Bucentoro ; 
Canova's  mask,  taken  after  death ;  the 
great  sculptor's  working  tools;  and 
two  baskets  of  fruit,  his  earliest  work 
in  sculpture,  when  he  was  only  14 
years  of  age  (1772), 

Beyond  the  P.  Correr  is  the  Ch.  of 
S.  Simeon  Piccolo ;  and  nearly  opposite 
to  the  Ely.  Stat.,  the  P.  Papadopolo, 
with  its  fine  gardens,  nearly  at  the 
extremity  of  the  Canal  Grande. 

Further  on  to  the  rt.,  after  the  P. 
Vendramin,  a  canal,  much  wider  than 
those  hitherto  passed,  opens  out  of  the 
Canal  Grande,  and  leads  to  Mestre. 
On  the  angle  formed  by  this  canal, 
which  is  called  the  Cannareggio  (i.  e, 
canal  regio),  with  the  Grand  Canal, 
stands  the  Palazzo  Labia,  built  by 
Cominelli,  much  dilapidated.  'Pro- 
ceeding up  the  Cannareggio,  immedi- 
ately after  having  passed  under  the 
bridge,  we  arrive,  on  the  1.,  at  the 

Palazzo  Manfrin,  an  elegant  mo- 
dem building.  It  once  contained  the 
best  collection  of  paintings  in  Ve- 
nice after  tliat  of  the  Academy ;  they 


390 


Eoute  31. —  Venice — Palaces — Churches,        Sect.  IV. 


filled  ten  rooms,  but  the  best  of  them 
were  sold  (1856),  and  those  that  re- 
main wiU  soon  follow  the  same  disper- 
sion ;  they  are  to  be  seen  Mondays  and 
Thursdays  from  9  till  1.  There  are 
hand  catalogues  in  each  room ;  and  as 
the  pictures  that  remain  are  of  second- 
rate  importance,  we  have  omitted  the 
list  of  the  Manfrini  gallery  inserted  in 
former  editions. 

Other  palaces,  not  upon  the  G-rand 
Canal,  which  ought  to  be  mentioned, 
are  the  Palazzo  Trevisan  a  S.  Zaecaria 
(Ponte  di  Oanonica),  by  Q-.  Bergamasco, 
richly  incrusted  with  fine  marbles,  and 
marMng  the  transition  from  the  Q-othic 
to  the  Italian.  This  palace  afterwardB 
passed  to  the  OapeUo  family,  having  been 
purchased  by  the  celebrated  Bianca  for 
her  brother  Vittore  CapeUo,  in  1577. 
The  original  CapeUo  Palace  is  near  the 
ch.  of  S.  Apollmare :  it  was  from  the 
latter  that  Bianca  fled  withPietroBona- 
venturi,  in  1563,  who  carried  her  to  Flo- 
rence, where  she  became  the  favourite, 
and  subsequently  the  wife  (1578),  of 
Francesco  dei  Medici. 

Palazzo  Comer  Mocemgo  (Campo 
di  San  Paolo),  built  by  Sanmicheli, 
TOmarkable  for  the  boldness  of  its  ele- 
vation and  its  grandeur. 

Palazzo  Morosini,  in  the  Campo  S. 
Stefano,  of  the  16th  cent.  Here  was 
born  F.  Morosini,  sumamed  Pelo- 
ponesiaco  ;  and  are  still  preserved  his 
arms  and  other  memorials.  In  the 
same  Campo  are  the  P.  Loredan^  now 
a  military  post,  and  the  vast  P.  PisanL 

The  Palazzo  Grimani  a  S.  Maria 
Formosa,  in  a  narrow  street  {Ruga 
Oiuffa)  near  the  ^ampo  of  >S'.  Maria 
Formosa,  is  attributed  to  SanmioheU. 
It  contains  a  collection  of  ancient  sta- 
tues, bas-rehefs,  and  inscriptions  j  but 
J  is  chiefly  remarkable  for  the  colossal 
statue  of  Agrippa,  which  was  formerly 
in  the  vestibide  of  the  Pantheon  at 
Rome:  both  arms  and  legs  are  re- 
storations J  it  now  stands  in  the  court 
of  the  palace.  The  illustrious  Boman 
is  represented,  his  1.  hand  seizing  a 
dolphin.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the 
quadrangle  is  a  good  torso  in  armour, 
of  the  time  of  the  Antonines,  restored 


as  a  colossal  statue  of  Augustus. 
There  are  some  second-rate  paintings 
in  the  large  rooms  on  the  first  floor,  and 
a  Christ  crowned  with  Thorns,  by 
PaUna  Vecchio,  in  the  chapel. 

Palazzo  Badoer,  in  the  Campo  di  S. 
G-iovanni  Bragola,  a  fine  specimen  of 
the  Gt)thic  of  the  14th  centy.  (1310)  : 
the  front  IB  ornamented  in  coloured 
marbles,  with  a  rude  rehef  of  an  eagle. 
This  palace  has  been  lately  restored, 
the  front  painted  barbarously  in  white 
and  red  squsu*es,  hke  a  chess-board. 

Palazzo  Oiovanelli,  a  fine  specimen  of 
the  pointed  style  of  the  16th  cent.  It 
is  situated  near  the  Ch.  of  S,  Fosca,  and 
belongs  to  the  wealthy  patrician  prince 
whose  name  it  now  bears.  The  modem 
decoration  of  the  apartments  is  very  rich. 

Palazzo  FaUer,  near  the  Bridge  and 
Campo  of  the  SS.  Apostoli,  in  the 
Arabo-Byzantine  style  of  the  ISkh 
centy. ;  it  has  4  handsome  pointed 
windows  behind  a  modem  balcony. 
It  belonged  to  Marino,- the  decapitated 
Doge,  and  was  confiscated  to  the  State 
after  his  execution  in  1355. 

Amongst  the  remarkable  Houses  (d 
Yenice  may  be  mentioned  the  Palazzo 
Moro  (modernized),  on  the  Campo  dei 
Carmine,  the  supposed  residence  of  Cris- 
toforo  Moro,  the  Othello  of  Shakspeare : 
on  the  comer  towards  the  Canal  is  the 
statue  of  a  warrior  of  the  15th  centy., 
probably  by  Bizzo.  The  Palazzo  del 
Poli,  in  the  Corte  del  Sabbion,  behind 
the  ch.  of  S.  Giovanni  Crisostomo,  now 
a  cafe.  Teatro  Mahbran,  of  which  little 
more  remains  than  a  handsome  walled- 
up  doorway,  in  the  Arabo-Byzantine 
style.  Here  Hved  Marco  Polo,  the 
celebrated  traveller  of  the  13th  cent», 
who  died  here  in  1323.  Tintore^ 
to^s  house  was  on  the  Quay  of  the 
Campo  dei  Mori,  near  the  Madonna  del  ^ 
Orto ;  and  Titian's,  in  the  Calle  di  S.  ^ 
Cancino,  at  a  place  called  Beiigrande,^ 
opposite  to  the  island  of  Murano.  \ 

Chubohes. 

Generally  speaking,  the  churches  of 
Venice  are  fine,  and  varied  in  character ; 
they  faU  into  4  principal  styles,  which,    ** 
amongst  themselves,  are  very  uniform. 


Venetian  Prov.        Boute  31. —  Venice — Churches. 


391 


The  first  is  a  peculiar  G-othic,  gene- 
rally plain,  massive,  and  solemn,  un- 
like the  arabesque  richness  of  the  ducal 
palace,  and  the  secular  structures  of 
the  same  order.  The  second  is  a  style 
which  here  they  term  Lombard,  but 
which  is  a  revival  of  the  Roman  style 
in  the  15th  centy.  The  third  is  clas- 
sical— Italian,  properly  so  called — of 
which  the  principal  examples  in  the 
sacred  edifices  here  are  Palladian.  The 
last  is  the  modern  Italian ;  sometimes 
overloaded  with  superfluous  ornament. 
Perhaps  no  city  in  Italy,  not  even  Rome 
itself,  possessed  formerly  so  many 
churches  in  proportion  to  its  population. 
It  was  the  poUcy  of  the  Venetians  that 
every  shoal  and  island  should  have  its 
mother  church,  surrounded  by  a  host 
of  minor  oratories. 

Oh.  of  SS,  Apostoli,  rebuilt  in 
15S-^  is  a  rehc  of  an  older  building 
much  modernized.  It  is  chiefly  re- 
markable for  the  sepulchral  chapel  of 
the  Comer  family.  The  architect  was 
GuffUelnw  Bergamcisco :  fancifiil  Co- 
rinthian piUars,  half  fluted  in  the  gene- 
ral way  and  half  fluted  spirally,  support 
it.  Here  are  the  tombs  of  Marco  Cor- 
ner, father  of  Catherine  Queen  of  Cy- 
prus, and  of  Giorgio  her  brother.  Tins 
ch.  contains  a  dubious  P.  Veronese^  near 
the  high  altar,  the  Eall  of  the  Manna. 

La  Chiesa  de^  Carmini,  or  of  I/a  Ver- 
gine  del  CarmelOy  a  fine  church  of  the 
14th  centy.,  but  the  facade  is  modem. 
It  has  several  good  paintings,  among 
"which  are,  at  the  second  altar,  the 
Nativity,  by  Oima  da  Conegliamo  j  at 
the  last  on  rt.,  the  Presentation  in  the 
Temple,  by  Tintoretto.  On  the  neigh- 
bouring piazza  stood  the  Palazzo  Moro, 
called  the  Casa  di  OteUo,  where  Shak- 
epeare's  hero  is  supposed  to  have  lived. 
J  Ch.  of  8.  Casianoj  beyond  the  Bridge 
of  the  Rialto,  remarkable  for  three  fine 
paintings  by  Tintoretto  at  the  high 
altar,  the  Resurrection,  the  Descent 
into  Hades,  and  the  Crucifixion — the 
latter  perhaps  one  of  the  grandest  works 
of  the  master.  At  the  second  altar  on 
rt.)  the  Meeting  of  Mary  and  Elizabeth, 
'by  P.  Veronese  ;  and  at  the  fifth,  a  St. 
John  Baptist,  by  JPalma  Vecchio, 


San  Francesco  delta  Vigna.  Tliis 
magnificent,  though  still  unfinished 
church,  was  built  at  the  expense  of  the 
Doge  Andrea  GhHitti,  by  whom  the  first 
stone  was  laid  Aug.  15,  1554.  Sanso- 
vino  had  made  the  designs  ;  these  were 
criticised,  and  differences  of  opinion 
arose,  pajrticularly  with  respect  to  the 
proportions  of  the  building.  The  doge 
was  troubled,  and  opinions  were  taken ; 
amongst  others,  Titian  was  consulted. 
The  building  was  completed,  but  from 
the  designs  of  Falladio,  and  much  of 
what  we  nowsee,  the%ade,  with  its  lofty 
portal,  bears  the  impress  of  his  style. 
The  entrance  is  profiisely  ornamented. 
It  contains  17  chapels :  in  the  fourth 
chapel  on  rt.  is  the  Resurrection,  in 
the  fifth  on  1.  a  Virgin  and  Child 
with  9t.  Margaret,  both  by  Faolo 
Veronese ;  in  the  Capella  Santa  a  Ma- 
donna by  Giov.  Bellini;  in  the  sacristy 
a  curious  Ancona  hjJacobello  del  More. 
The  Capella  GiusUniani  is  in  the  sump- 
tuous style  of  the  Lombardi.  There 
are  several  tombs  of  doges  of  the  16th 
and  I7th  centuries  in  this  ch.  The 
small  bronze  statues  of  St.  John  and 
St.  Francis  in  the  holy-water  basin, 
are  by  Al.  Vittoria. 
I  The  JVaW,  or  Sta.  Maria  Gloriosa 
de*  Frari,  built,  at  least  designed,  by  Ni- 
colo  Pisanoy  about  1250.  The  interior 
consists  of  a  rather  narrow  nave  and 
aisles,  with  2  short  transepts,  in  which 
are  3  chapels  on  each  side  of  the  choir. 
Each  aisle  is  separated  from  the  nave 
by  6  pointed  arches.  Having  belonged 
to  the  Franciseans,  it  contains  several 
tombs  of  historical  interest.  In  the 
basins  for  holy  water  are  two  small 
bronze  statues  by  Q-irolamo  Campagna  j 
that  on  the  1.  represents  St.  Antony, 
that  on  the  rt.  Innocence.  Commencing 
the  circuit  of  the  church,  on  the  rt.  hand 
as  we  enter  is  the  colossal  monument 
of  Titian,  completed  at  the  expense  of 
the  Emperor  of  Austria.  It  had  been 
the  intention  of  Charles  V.  to  erect 
a  tomb  over  the  remains  of  the 
great  painter,  but  it  was  reserved 
to  the  Emperor  Ferdinand  I.  to  do 
so.  The  monument,  which  was  un- 
covered in  1853,  consists  of  a  massive 


392 


Route  31. —  Venice — Church  of  the  Frari,  Sect.  IV. 


baaement,  on  which  rises  a  highly  deco- 
rated Copinthian  canopy,  under  which 
is  a  sitting  statue  of  the  painter  crowned 
with   laurel,  and   behind   bas-rehefs 
copied  from  his  three  greatest  works — 
the  Assumption  of  the  Virgin,  the  Death 
of  St.  Peter  Martyr,   and  the  Mar- 
tyrdom of  St.  Lawrence.    There  are 
several  statues  allegorical  to  the  Arts, 
on  either  side,  and  two  on  the  base- 
ment;   that    holding    the  inscription 
"  Titiano  monumentum  erectum  sit  Fer- 
dinandus  J.,  1839,"  is  by   Zandome- 
neghi :  the  statue  of  the  old  man  hold- 
ing   a    book,    on   which   is "  written, 
*^JSques  et  Comes  Titianus  sit.  Carolus 
V.  1553,"  at  whose  feet  is  a  volume 
inscribed,  "  Canoties  et  Decreta  Con- 
cilii  Tridentani"  is  intended  for  Fra 
Paolo   Sarpi,    and    is   the    last  work 
executed    by    Zandomeneghi    (1847). 
The  statue  of  Titian  and  e»me  of  the 
others  are  by  Zandomeneghi,  who  was 
also  the  principal  designer  of  the  mo- 
nument.    The  marble  slab  with  the 
verses — 

**  Qui  giace  il  gran  Tiziano  de*  Verelli, 
Emulator  de'  Zeusi  e  degli  Apelli," 

which  for  centuries  was  the  only  me- 
morial on  the  artistes  grave,  still  may 
be  seen  on  the  rt.  of  the  present  mag- 
nificent mausoleum.  No  trace  of  his 
remains  were  however  discovered  be- 
neath. The  painting  of  the  Presenta- 
tion in  the  Temple,  at  the  2nd  altar, 
is  by  Salviati  s  the  statue  of  St. 
Jerome,  over  the  3rd,  is  by  Aless.  Vit- 
toria  ;  at  the  4th,  the  Martyrdom  of  St. 
Catherine,  by  PaVma  Giovane.  Beyond 
this  altar  is  a  door,  over  which  is  a 
•\vooden  case,  supposed  to  contain  the 
bones  of  Francesco  Carmagnola,  the 
celebrated  condottiere,  executed  at 
Venice  in  1432 ;  but  it  is  now  well 
ascertained  that  his  remains  were  car- 
ried to  Milan.  In  the  comer  of  the 
rt.-hand  transept  is  a  fine  picture,  in 
three  compartments,  by  JB.  VivaHni^ 
1482.  It  represents  the  Virgin  and 
four  Saints,  with  a  Piettl  above.  The 
Gothic  monument  of  the  Beato  Paci- 
fico  over  this  was  raised  by  his  family 
in  1437.  This  Beato,  originally  the 
architect  Scipione  Bon,  died  in  the 


middle  of  -the  preceding  century.  The 
monument  of  the  Venetian  general, 
Benedetto  Pesaro,  is  a  triimiphal 
arch,  and  forms  the  decoration  of  the 
door  of  the  sacristy.  The  principal 
figure  is  by  Lorenzo  Bregni;  on  his 
1.  is  a  fine  one  of  Mars,  by  Bacdo 
da  Montelwpo,  The  Bregms^  who 
flourished  about  the  latter  pai-t  of 
the  15th  and  the  beginning  of  the 
16th  centuries,  were  members  of  one  of 
the  families  of  artists,  of  which  there 
were  many  in  Italy,  amongst  whom 
art  was  so  successmQy  carried  on  by 
tradition.  Paolo  was  an  architect ; 
Antonio,  his  brother,  a  sculptor ;  and 
both  worked  upon  these  tombs.  Lo- 
renzo Bregni,  not  less  eminent,  lived  a 
generation  later. 

In  the  sacristy  is  a  beautiful  paint- 
ing over  the  altar  by  Giovanni  Bellini, 
in  three  portions,  the  Madonna  and 
four  Saints  (1488).  Also  some  high  re- 
liefs of  the  Crucifixion  and  Burial  of 
our  Lord. 

Returning  into  the  church,  in  the 
2nd  chapel  on  rt.  of  the  choir,  a  good 
Gothic  tomb,  of  the  14th  century,  of 
Duccio  degh  Alberti,  a  Florentine  am- 
bassador (ob.  1336).  In  the  Tribune 
are  two  splendid  monuments  :  on  the 
rt.  that  of  the  unfortunate  Doge  Fran- 
cesco Foscari  (died  1457) — an  exceed- 
ingly noble  elevation  by  Anto.  Bizzo. 
The  columns  support  statues.  Lord 
Byron's  tragedy  has  rendered  the  his- 
tory of  the  Foscari  family  familiar  to 
the  English  reader.  This  monument 
was  erected  by  the  Doge's  grandson 
Nicolo,  who  filled  several  important 
offices  in  the  repubhc  between  14^0 
and  1501.  Opposite  is  the  tomb  of 
the  Doge  Nicolo  Tron  (died  1472),  by 
Antonio  Rizzo,  which  is  27  ft.  in  width 
and  more  than  40  in  height,  being  com- 
posed of  five  stories,  and  adorned  by  19 
full-length  figures,  besides  a  profusion 
of  bas-reliefs  and  other  ornaments. 

The  screen  before  the  choir  deserves 
notice  from  its  peculiar  construction, 
and  its  low  reliefs  of  saints  of  the 
15th  centy. ;  on  the  roodscreen  are 
statues  of  the  Virgin  and  St.  John. 

The  high  altar  was  erected  in  1516. 


Ven.  Prov.      Route  31. —  Venice — Church" of  the  Frari. 


393 


The  picture,  the  Assumption  of  the  Vir- 
gin, is  by  SahyiaU.  The  stalls  of  the 
choir,  which  extends  as  far  as  the  5th 
arch  of  the  nave,  are  of  the  very  finest 
-wood-work,  the  backs  most  beautifully 
inlaid,  or  worked  in  tarsia,  by  Gio- 
vanni Paolo  di  Vicenza,  1468,  or  ac- 
cording to  others  by  Marco  di  Vicenza. 
Ill  the  7th  chapel  (1st  on  1.  of  high 
altar)  is  a  painting  of  the^i^irgin  En- 
throned, by  B,  ikcinio ;  in  the  next 
is  the  monument  of  Melchior  Trevisan 
(died  1500),  by  Dentone:  the  statue 
above  is  in  complete  armour,  standing 
boldly  forth  in  simphcity  of  conception 
combined  with  great  richness  in  execu- 
tion. The  St.  John  in  wood,  and  in 
the  niche  over  the  altar,  is  by  Dona- 
tello.  There  is  some  good  painted  glass 
by  Maestro  Ma/rcOy  of  1335,  in  the 
comer  chapel  opening  into  the  1.  tran- 
sept. In  the  9th  chapel  is  a  good 
altarpiece  by  Luigi  Vivarini,  completed 
by  JBasaitij  the  Crowning  of  the  Virgin, 
with  a  group  of  Saints  on  either  side. 

In  the  h-hand  transept  is  a  monu- 
ment, the  work  of  the  Lombardis 
at  the  end  of  the  15th  century — it  was 
raised  by  Maffeo  Zen  to  his  wife 
Generosa  Orsini ;  and  3  paintings  of  S. 
Mark  and  .4  other  saints,  by  B.  Viva- 
rini  (1474).  In  the  chapel  of  St.  Peter, 
opening  out  of  the  N.  aisle,  are  a  font 
with  a  statue  of  St.  John  the  Baptist, 
by  Sansovino ;  some  sculptures  of  the 
15th  centy.;  an  Ancona  in  compart- 
ments, containing  statues  of  saints 
below,  St.  Peter  in  the  centre,  witli 
the  Virgin  and  4  female  saints  above, 
by  Jacohello  dalle  Ma>ssegne  (1485)  ; 
and  the  monument  to  Bishop  Miani, 
with  5  statues,  probably  by  the  same 
artist  (1464).  Beyond  the  entrance  to 
this  chapel  is  the  monument,  rich  in 
Oriental  marbles,  of  Jacopo  Pesaro, 
who  died  1547.  Over  the  Pesaro  altar 
is  a  fine  votive  picture  by  Titian^ 
called  the  JPala  dei  Pesari.  It  is 
the  property  of  the  Pesaro  family, 
and  therefore  was  not  taken  to  France. 
It  represents  the  Virgui  seated  in 
an  elevated  situation,  within  noble 
architecture,  with  our  Saviour  in  her 
arms,  who  turns  to  St.  Francis :  below 

N.  Italy— l^m. 


is  St.  Petfer  with  a  book ;  on  one  side  of 
him  St.  George  bearing  a  standard,  on 
which  are  emblazoned  the  Pesaro  arms, 
with  those  of  Pope  Alexander  VI. ; 
below  are  the  Donatorio,  a  bishop, 
and  five  other  members  of  the  Pesaro 
family,  kneeling  before  *the  Virgin,  one 
of  whom,  a  young  female,  is  particularly 
lovely.  In  composition  this  picture 
ranks  next  to  the  Peter  Martyr.  More 
full  and  deep  colour  belongs  to  the 
nature  of  the  subject,  if  subject  it  may 
be  called,  and  it  possesses  it.  It  is 
also  an  excellent  specimen  of  back- 
ground finished  to  character,  but  so 
well  composed  to  receive  that  finish 
that  it  nowhere  obtrudes  on  or  inter- 
rupts the  principal  matter,  though  it 
has  itself  sufficient  grandeur  and  in- 
terest, and  is  perfectly  natural.  Titian 
received,  in  1519, 102  golden  ducats  for 
this  magnificent  work,  including  six 
for  the  frame. 

The  monument  of  the  Doge  Gio- 
vanni Pesaro  (died  1659)  is  also  a 
stupendous  fabric,  but  it  is  more  re- 
markable for  its  singularity  than  its 
beauty.  It  is  supported  by  colossal 
Moors  or  Negroes  of  black  marble, 
dressed  in  white  marble;  their  black 
elbows  and  knees  protruding  through 
the  rents  of  their  white  jackets  and 
trousers.  In  the  centre  sits  the  Doge. 
It  is  a  curious  specimen  of  the  bad 
taste  of  the  17th  century.  The  archi- 
tect was  Longhena,  the  sculptor  Bar- 
thel :  it  was  executed  about  1669. 

By  the  side  of  this,  opposite  that 
of  Titian,  is  the  monimient  erected 
to  the  memory  of  Canova  (in  1827), 
borrowed  from  his  own  design  for 
that  of  the  Archduchess  Christina  at 
Vienna.  A  vast  pyramid  of  white 
marble,  into  whose  opened  doors  of 
bronze  various  mourners,  Beligion,  Art, 
Genius,  and  so  forth,  are  seen  walking 
in  funeral  procession,  with  a  crouching 
Hon  of  St.  Mark  on  the  opposite  side. 
This  design  of  Canova*  s  monument 
was  at  one  time  proposed  to  be  erected 
to  Titian.  Only  Canova's  heart  is  pre- 
served here  in  an  alabaster  vase,  tlio 
rest  of  his  remains  being  at  Possagno. 

On     the    altar    wliich    follows    is 

T 


394 


Boute  31. —  Venioe — Churches. 


Sect.  IV. 


a  large  bas-relief  of  the  Crucifixion. 
Between  this  and  the  principal  door 
is  an  elegant  monument,  in  marble,  to 
Pietro  Bernardo  (who  died  1568),  by 
Alessandro  Leopardi.  The  mediEeval 
monument  near  it  is  of  Simeone  Dan- 
doloy  one  of  the  judges  of  M.  Falier 
(ob.  1360).  The  fine  detached  bell- 
tower  was  commenced  in  1361  by  Ja- 
copOf  and  finished  in  1896  by  JPietro 
2*aolo  dalle  Mcusseffne.  Several  of  the 
doors  leading  into  the  ch.  of  the  Fran 
are  fine  specimens  of  the  Pointed  style 
of  the  14th  cent. 

Venetian  Archives,  The  conventual 
buildings  attached  to  the  ch.  of  the 
Frari  have  been  converted  into  a 
depository  for  the  archives  of  the  an- 
cient Venetian  state.  Their  bulk  is 
appallmg:  they  are  said  to  fill  295 
rooms,  and  to  consist  of  upwa.  t's  of 
14  millions  of  documents,  extending 
from  A.D.  883  to  the  present  time.  They 
have  been  formed  from  the  collections 
of  suppressed  monastic  estabHshments, 
from  the  records  of  noble  Venetian 
famiUes,  and  from  the  ancient  diplo- 
matic archives  of  the  Eepubhc.  The 
selections  relating  to  Sanuto,  and  from 
the  diplomatic  correspondence  of  the 
Venetian  envoys  in  England,  made 
by  Mr.  Bawdon  Brown,  show  to  what 
good  use  they  might  be  turned;  but 
considerable  difficulty  is  experienced  in 
obtaining  the  necessary  permission  to 
examine  them,  from  the  Austrian  au- 
thorities at  Vienna. 

I  Qesuati,  or  more  properly  S.  Maria 
del  Bosario,  on  the  quay  overlooking 
the  Canal  della  Giudecca,  a  handsome 
modem  ch.  of  the  last  centy. ;  the  high 
altar  is  richly  decorated;  the  Christ 
on  the  Cross  between  the  two  Maries, 
in  the  last  chapel  on  l,  is  by  Jacopo 
Tintoretto,  The  adjoining  convent  be- 
longs to  the  Jesuits. 

The  Chiesa  de'  Gesuiti,  built  by  Fat- 
toretto  and  Rossi  (1715-1730),  is  an  ex- 
traordinary specimen  of  the  theatrical 
and  luxurious  magnificence  of  the 
churches  of  tliis  order.  The  walls  are 
tabled  with  carved  marble  inlaid  with 
verd' -antique  and  other  coloured  mar- 


bles in  flowers.  The  twisted  columns 
of  the  altar  are  solid  blocks  of  verd'- 
antique  mixed  with  brocatello,  as  is  also 
the  pavement  within  the  altar-rails. 
The  roof  is  finely  coloured.  Beneath 
a  slab  in  front  of  the  high  altar  is 
interred  Manin,  the  last  of  the  long  line 
of  Venice's  Doges.     The  inscription, 

"-^TEENITATI  SUJE  MaNIKI  CdJEEES," 

is  singularly  affecting.  Manin,  a  weak 
and  honest  man,  was  unequal  to  the 
exigencies  of  the  times  he  lived  in,  and 
when  required  to  take  the  oath  of  alle- 
giance  to  the  Austrian  Emperor  he 
dropped  senseless  upon  the  ground,  so 
poignantly  did  he  feel  his  country's 
abjection  and  misfortunes.  In  the 
chapel,  on  the  1.  of  the  high  altar,  is 
the  tomb  of  Doge  Cicogna  (ob.  1595), 
by  G.  Campagna,  and,  in  that  on  the 
rt.,  the  mausoleum  erected  to  Orazio 
Earnese  by  the  senate  in  1676.  In  the 
Sacristy  are — the  Discovery  of  the  Cross, 
by  JPalma  Oiovane;  a  Circumcision,  by 
Jacopo  Tintoretto; — in  the  aisle  an  . 
Assumption,  by  2).  Tintoretto,  and 
the  Martyrdom  of  St.  Lawrence,  much  / 
injured,  by  Titian, 

Ch.  of  S.  Qiacomo  di  Mialto,  at  the 
Toot  of  the  bridge.  On  the  site  of  this 
church  stood  the  first  church  which 
was  built  in  Venice,  erected  in  421. 
In  its  present  form  it  was  first  built 
in  1194.  It  was  entirely  restored  or 
rather  rebuilt  in  1531,  but  "  precisely 
in  the  old  form,  as  we  are  informed 
by  an  inscription  in  the  portico ;  "wo" 
may  doubt  the  perfect  accuracy  of  the 
imitation,  but  the  six  marble  columns 
of  the  nave,  with  their  capitals  copied 
from  the  Corinthian,  are  probably  parts 
of  the  ancient  building.  The  middle 
space  is  about  twice  the  width  of  the 
others,  forming  a  transept,  and  a  cupola 
rises  at  the  intersection.  I  suspect 
that  this  was  an  innovation,  but  on 
the  whole  it  is  a  pretty  Uttle  thing.^* — 
Woods,  It  contains  a  fine  bronze 
statue  of  St.  Anthony  the  Abbot,  by 
G.  Campagna,  and  one  at  the  high  altar, 
of  the  patron  saint,  bv  A.  Vittoria. 
The  best  paintings  are — m  the  1st  chapel 
on  1.,  the  Martyrdom  of  St.  Lawrence,:!^ 
hy  Titian;  in  the  2nd,  an  Assumption,  * 


Vei^eti AN  Pro V.        Eovie  31.  —  Venice —  Churches, 


395 


by  Ttntoretto ;  and  in  the  Ist  on  rt., 
Tobias  and  the  Angel,  by  Palma 
GHovane, 

San  Griobhe,  in  a  remote  quarter  of 
the  city,  upon  the  Canareggio,  and 
hehind  the  Botanic  Garden  and  Ely. 
Stat.,  a  ch.  that  contains  several  in- 
teresting works  of  art.  The  principal 
entrance  from  the  Campo  is  a  fine  spe- 
cimen of  the  Renaissance  style  of  the 
15th  centy. ;  on  it  are  statues  of  SS. 
Antony,  Bernard,  and  Louis  of  Tou- 
louse. The  most  remarkable  works  of 
art  in  the  interior  of  the  ch.  are, — in 
the  Sacristy  and  over  the  door,  a  por- 
trait of  Doge  Crist.  Moro,  by  Gentile 
Bellini;  a  Virgin,  with  St.  John  Bap- 
tist and  St.  Catherine,  by  Qiov.  Bellini  ; 
and  over  the  altar  an  Annunciation,  with 
Saints, by  the  Vivarinis.  Thegreat  object 
of  attradjion,  however,  is  the  chapel  of 
the  choir,  dedicated  to  St.  Bernardino 
of  Siena,  entered  under  a  finely  deco- 
rated arch,  on  each  side  of  winch  are 
statues  of  Yirgin  and  Angel  represent- 
ing the  Annunciation ;  the  four  me- 
dallions of  the  Evangehsts  borne  by 
Angels  were  executed  in  1470.  On  the 
floor  is  the  tomb  of  Doge  Cristoforo 
Moro,  who  reigned  from  1462  until 
1471 ,  a  great  patron  of  learning  -and 
the  arts,  who  introduced  printing  into 
Tenice,  during  whose  time  Cardinal 
Besarion  gave  his  library  to  the 
Hepublic,  and  Caterina  Oomaro  be- 
came Queen  of  Cyprus.  The  chapels 
opening  out  of  the  1.  aisle  are  richly 
decorated:  in  the  2nd,  dedicated  to 
St.  John  Baptist,  are  3  good  statues  by 
the  Lombardi,  and  on  the  vaults  5 
circular  bas-reliefs  of  the  Almighty  and 
4  Evangelists,  attributed  to  JJuca  delta 
Itohbia,  the  rest  of  the  roof  being  in 
chequered  tile-work,  the  whole  admir- 
ably preserved.  The  alto-rehevo  of 
St.  Peter  in  the  1st  chapel  on  1.  is  by 
Antonio  Sossellino,  the  statues  of  St. 
Luke  and  the  Angels  being  very  good. 
Amongst  the  several  sepulchral  monu- 
ments in  S.  Griobbe  may  be  noticed 
that  of  Voyer  d'Argenson,  the  envoy 
of  Louis  XIV.  to  the  Bepublic,  by  the 
Parisian  sculptor  Claude  Perrault. 
The  cloisters  and  convent  gardens  at- 


tached to  this  ch.,  extending  from  the 
Canareggio  to  the  rly.  stat.,  have  been 
converted  into  the  Botanic  Gardens. 
Near  here  are  -the  public  shambles, 
Macello  Publico  i  and  on  the  1.,  re- 
turning to  the  Canal  Grande,  the  two 
Ghettos  or  Jews'  quarters,  where  there 
are  several  Synagogues,  that  of  the 
Spanish  Hebrews  being  the  most  re- 
markable. 

j  Ch.oi  San  Giorgio  Maggiore.  This  fine 
edifice,  beyond  the  Canal  della  Giudecca, 
opposite  to  the  Piazzetta  and  Riva  degli 
Schiavoni,  was  designed  by  Palladio, 
and  begun  in  1556,  though  the  front  was 
not  completed  till  1610.  The  general 
proportions  of  the  front  are  pleasing. 
"  Internally  the  chiu'ch  has  a  nave 
and  two  side  aisles,  but  the  piers 
are  very  soUd,  and  admit  no  oblique 
view  between  them  on  entering  the 
great  door.  The  nave  itself  is  much 
inferior  to  that  of  the  Redentore.  It 
is  too  short,  and  the  pedestals  are  Ifcoo 
high.  The  transept  cuts  the  lines  dis- 
agreeably ;  and  the  want  of  some  pro- 
jection or  alteration  of  plan  at  the 
intersection  produces  an  effect  of  feeble- 
ness. The  altars  are  aU  similar,  simple, 
and  good." —  Woods.  This  church  was 
finished  under  the  directions  of  Sea- 
mozzij  who  is  beUeved  to  have  made 
some  alterations  in  the  design  of  Fal- 
ladio.  It  contains  several  good  pic- 
tures :  at  the  1st  altar  on  the  rt.  the 
Nativity,  by  J.  Bassano:  at  the  2nd 
a  crucifix  by  Michelozzi ;  at  the  3rd, 
Martyrdom  of  Saints ;  at  the  4th,  the 
Virgin  crowned;  both  by  Tintoretto, 
On  the  walls  of  the  central  chapel, 
the  Falling  of  the  Manna  and  the  Last 
Supper,  by  the  same.  The  48  scats 
in^the  choir  are  beautifully  sculptured 
by  Albert  de  Brule^  a  Fleming :  they 
represent  events  in  the  life  of  St. 
Benedict.  The  group  of  figures  in 
bronze  over  the  high  altar  is  by  Gir. 
Campagna.  A  door  on  the  rt.  on 
entering  the  choir  leads  into  a  corridor, 
where  is  a^  monument  erected  in  1637, 
from  the  design  of  LongTiena,  to  the 
memory  of  the  Doge  Domenico  Micliieli 
(died  1 128) .  It  was  this  doge  who  urgccj 
the  Venetians  to  co-operate  in  the  cru- 

T  2 


39G 


Boute  31. —  Venice — Churches, 


Sect.  IV. 


sade ;  he  is  styled,  on  his  monument, 
of  a  date  long  posterior,  the  Qrcecorwn 
Terror.  In  the  two^  chapels  on  the  1. 
of  the  choir  are  the  Kesurrection,  hy 
Tintoretto  ;  and  in  the  N.  transept  the 
Martyrdom  of  St.  Stephen ;  in  the  2nd 
altar  on  the  1.  a  statue  of  the  Virgin 
by  Cwmpagna;  and  in  that  next  the 
door  the  Martyrdom  of  St.  Lucia,  by 
Leandro  Baasano.  Over  the  principal 
entrance  is  the  monument .  to  Doge 
Donato,  the  supporter  of  Fra  Paolo 
Sarpi  in  his  discussions  with  Rome 
on  the  rights  of  the  Republic.  As 
amongst  the  last  works  of  Falladio, 
the  portico  and  refectory  in  the  monas- 
tery are  interesting. 

Ch.  of  San  CHorgio  de^  Greciy  the 
ch.  of  the  Greek  rite  in  Venice,  is  from 
the  designs  of  Sansovino.  It  is  well 
known  that  the  Q-reeks  do  not  admit 
of  sculpture  in  their  sacred  edifices. 
Medallions  of  mosaic  in  the  fa9ade, 
and,  within,  paintings  of  which  the 
ground  is  covered  with  silver  plates, 
therefore  constitute  the  principal  orna- 
ments. "  On  the  division  which  sepa- 
rates the  sanctuary  from  the  body  of 
the  church  are  some  paintings  coated 
with  silver,  and  having  crowns  and 
other  ornaments  of  gold  attached  to 
tliem,  and  leaving  liardly  anything 
visible  but  the  faces.  I  was  assured 
that  the  painting  was  complete  beneath 
this  covering,  and  that  the  parts  which 
were  figured  in  low  relief  on  the  silver 
plate  corresponded  exactly  with  the 
drawings  beliind  it." — Woods.  The 
altar  is  hidden  behind  a  screen,  covered 
with  paintings,  and  fiUing  up  the  entire 
E.  end  of  the  ch.  The  mosaic  of  the 
Transfiguration  is  a  fine  work  of  the 
2^ccatis. 

San  Giorgio  dei  Sohiavoni,  on  the 
canal  behind  the  ch.  of  S.Zaccaria,in  the 
style  of  Sansovino  of  the  16th  centy. 
The  scuola  annexed  to  this  ch.  contains 
8  paintings  by  Carpaccio,  relative  to 
the  patron  saint,  to  St.  Jerome,  2 
representing  Christ  in  the  house  of  the 
Pharisee,  and  on  the  Mount  of  Olives ; 
the  Virgin  Entlironed,  in  the  principal 
chapel,  is  by  V.  Catena. 

Near  here  is  the  ch.  of  the  Knight  j 


of  Malta,  San  GKoranni  dei  Eurlani, 
which  contains  a  monument  to  Arch- 
duke Frederick  of  Austria,  who  died  at 
Venice  in  1847. 

San  Giovanni  in  Bragola^  rebuilt  in 
1728,  in  the  Campo  della  Bragola 
(from  Brago,  a  swamp),  off  the  Biva 
dei  Schiavoni.  There  are  some  good 
works  of  art  here:  on  the  1.  wall  a 
triptych  of  SS.  Martin,  Jerome,  and 
Andrew,  by  A.  Vivarini;  a  Last  Sup- 
per, by  Paris  Bordone  ;  in  the  Sacristy 
another  triptych,  by  A.  Vivarini;  and 
a  St.  Helena  and  Constantine,  by  Cima 
da  Conegliano.  The  Baptism  oi  Christ 
behind  the  high  altar  is  a  lovely 
work,  by  the  same  j  in  other  parts 
of  the  ch.,  Christ  before  Pilate,  and 
the  VSTashing  of  the  Feet,  by  JPalma 
CHovane  ;  and  a  triptych  of  theV  irgin 
with  SS.  Andrew  and  John  Baptist,  by 
B.  Vivarini ;  with  3  small  subjects  be- 
neath by  Cima.  The  large  adjoining 
Palace  painted  in  red  and  white  chec- 
quers  is  the  P.  Badoaro  Partecipazip. 

San  Giovanni  OrisostomOy  by  Tullio 
LombardOf  1489.  Paintings — 1st  altar 
on  rt.,  Giovan*  Bellini^  St.  Jerome 
with  2  Saints ;  over  the  high  altar,  Se^ 
hastian  del  PionibOy  St.  Giovanni  Cri- 
sostomo  and  Saints.  The  fine  bas-relief 
of  the  Coronation  of  the  Virgin,  and 
the  12  Apostles,  by  Tullio  Lomhardo, 
in  the  2nd  chapel  on  1.  In  this  the  ma- 
nagement of  the  perspective  is  very 
remarkable. 

Ch.  of  Sawti  Giovanni  e  Paolo^^ 
better  known  as  San  Zanipolo,  hegun 
in  1246,  but  not  finished  till  1390. 
The  architect's  name  is  not  known : 
he  is  supposed  to  have  been  of  the 
school  of  Nicolo  Pisano.  Its  length 
is  330i  ft.,  its  width  between  the  ends 
of  the  transepts  142J  ft.,  and  in  the 
body  91  ft. :  its  height  123  ft.  Tlie 
principal  door,  with  columns  and  sculp- 
tures, is  in  the  finest  Pointed  style  of 
the  13th  centy. ;  there  are  some  rude 
bas-reliefs  of  the  7th  and  8th  cents,  let 
into  the  wall  of  the  fagade,  and  in  the 
niches  on  the  side  of  the  door  some 
tombs  of  Doges  of  the  13th. 

The  interior  is  a  fine  specimen  of 
the  early  Italian  Gothic;  the  5  wide 


Ven.  Prov.     R,  31. — Church  of  SS.  Giovanni  e  Paolo, 


397 


I 


pointed  arches  on  either  side  of  the 
nave  give  it  a  very  light  appearance,  so 
different  from  our  northern  Q-othic 
churches.  The  transepts  are  very  short 
in  proportion  to  the  length  of  the  nave. 
The  once  handsome  tribune  has  been 
sadly  disfigured  by  the  modem  adapt- 
ation of  Corinthian  ornament. 

On  the  rt.  on  entering  is  the  mo- 
nument of  the  Doge  Pietro  Mocenigo 
(died  1476),  the  work  of  Pietro  (the 
father)  and  Antonio  and  Ihillio  Lom- 
hardo  (the  sons).  At  the  first  altar 
on  the  rt.  is  a  picture  of  the  Virgin 
and  Child,  by  G-.  Bellini^  with  5  Saints 
on  either  side,  and  3  children  sing- 
ing below.  At  the  2nd  altar,  one 
in  9  compartments,  attributed  to  V. 
Carpaccio.  Outside  the  6th  chapel 
are  the  colossal  inonuments  of  the 
Doges  Silvestro  and  Bertuccio  Vaher, 
1658,  1700 ;  and  of  the  wife  of  the 
former,  in  the  eftyle  of  Bernini.  The  7th 
chapel  (dedicated  to  St.  Dominick)  con- 
tains 6  bas-reliefs  representing  the  ac- 
tions of  St.  Dominick,  by  Camillo 
Mazza  ;  5  of  them  are  in  bronze,  the  6th 
in  wood.  In  the  rt.-hand  transept, 
near  the  angle,  is  a  picture  of  St. 
Augustine  seated,  by  S.  Vvoarini,  1473. 

Over  the  door  of  this  transept  are 
the  tombs  of  the  general  Dionigi 
Naldo  (died  1510)  by  Lorenzo  Bregno^ 
and  at  the  side  that  of  Nicolo  Orsini 
Count  of  Pittigliano  (died  1509),  both 
in  the  service  of  Venice  against  the 
licague  of  Cambray  j  these  two  monu- 
ments were  raised  at  the  expense 
of  the  RepubUc.  The  large  window 
with  good  painted  glass  was  executed 
by  Olrolamo  Mocetto  in  1473,  from 
the  designs  of  B.  Vivarini.  In  a  line 
with  the  high  altar  are  2  chapels, 
on  each  side.  In  the  1st  are  2  paint- 
iiigSj  by  Bonifazio,  of  several  Saints ; 
and  in  the  2nd,  that  of  the  Magdalene 
washing  the  Feet  of  the  Saviour  is  a 
fine  work  of  the  same  painter ;  that  of 
the  Emperor  Constantino,  with  SS.  Vito 
and  Ascanio,  the  Virgin  and  Saints, 
and  some  portraits  of  nobles,  is  by  THn- 
toretto;  the  group  of  the  Crucifixion 
over  the  altar  by  €hig.  Bergamasco. 

On  the  "Wall   on    the  rt.  hand  of 


the  high  altar  is  the  monument  of^ 
the  Doge  Michele  Morosini  (ob. 
1382),  in  a  tolerably  pure  Pointed 
style.  Morosini  reigned  only  four 
months,  but  this  short  reign  was  illus- 
trated by  the  capture  of  Tenedos. 
Next  to  this  the.  monument  of  the 
Doge  Leonardo  Loredan  (died  1521) 
commemorates  one  of  the  wisest  of  the 
princes  of  Venice,  when  her  prudence 
and  fortitude  baffled  the  league  of 
Cambrai.  Tlie  design  is  by  Oirolamo 
Orapiglia,  1572.  The  statue  of  the 
Doge  is  by  O.  Campagnaf  the  others 
by  Danese  Cattaneo.  Opposite  to  this 
is  the  most  splendid  monument  of  its  >^ 
kind  in  Venice — that  of  the  Doge  An-  , 
drea  Vendramin  (died  1479).  "  The 
bas-reliefs  and  the  statuettes  round  the 
sarcophagus  seem  as  if  taken  from  the 
intaglio  of  a.Q-reek  gem,  so  pure  is 
the  outhne,  so  graceful  the  invention, 
and  so  dignified  the  style." — Cicognara. 
The  statue  of  the  deceased  Doge, 
stretched  on  the  bier,  exhibits  him  as 
fallen  asleep  rather  than  as  dead.  In 
the  architectural  portion  the  arabesques 
of  the  pilasters  and  friezes  are  remark- 
able. They  are  attributed  to  Alessandro 
Leopardi.  The  elevation  of  Andrea 
Vendramin  to  the  sovereignty  (1478) 
marks  the  decline  of  the  primitive 
poUcy  of  the  state.  He  was  the  first  of 
the  newly  ennobled  families  admitted  to 
the  honours  heretofore  monopohsed  by 
the  descendants  of  the  primitive  aris- 
tocracy. The  founder  of  the  family 
was  a  banker  or  moneychanger,  who, 
having  fitted  out  a  vessel  at  his  own 
expense  during  the  war  of  Chioggia, 
was  inscribed  on  the  Libro  d*Oro  as  a 
reward  for  his  patriotism.  In  the 
chapel  of  the  Trinity  are  two  good 
works  of  Leandro  Bassano^  one  on  the 
wall  on  the  1.  hand,  the  Disinterment 
of  St.  John ;  the  other,  over  the  altar, 
the  Trinity,  Madonna,  and  Saints.  The 
sepulchral  urns  contain  the  remains  of 
Doge  Pietro  Comer  (ob.  1368),  and  of 
Andrea  Morosini.  In  the  next  chapel, 
on  the  wall  on  the  rt.  is  the  beautiful 
Q-othio  tomb  of  Jacopo  Cavalli,  by 
Jacobello  dalle  Massegne,  and  opposite 
that  of  Doge  Delfin  (ob.  1361) .     In  the 


398        R.  ^\,—  Venice^Church  qfSS.  Gmami  e  Paolo.      Sect.  IV. 


adjoining  N.  transept  is  a  marble  group 
representing  Vittore  Capello  receiving 
the  baton  of  command  from  S.  Elena, 
hy  Antonio  Dentone{14S0);  and  the  mo- 
nument of  Leonardo  Frato,  with  a  good 
equestrian  statue.  From  the  transept  a 
door  leads  into  the  chapel  of  the  Bosary, 
over  which  is  the  tomb  of  Doge  An- 
tonio Venier  (ob.  1400).  The  chapel  is 
splendidly  decorated ;  over  the  door  on 
the  inside  is  a  painting  by  J).  Tintoretto y 
the  Holy  League  of  1570 ;  the  altar  is 
by  Campa^na,  and  the  pictures  of  the 
Battle  of  Lepanto  and  of  the  Cruci- 
fixion by  J.  Tintoretto}  the  hand- 
some carvings  in  wood,  by  Brustolon, 
were  brought  hero  from  the  Scuola 
della  Carita.  The  series  of  marble  bas- 
reUefs  on  the  walls  beliind  the  altar, 
representing  events  in  the  life  of  our 
Saviour,  are  by  Bonazza  of  Padua 
(1732).  Returning  to  the  church,  in 
the  Sacristy  are  paintings  of  Christ 
bearing  the  Cross,  by  Alvise  Vivariniy  of 
Honorius  III.  approving  of  the  Order 
of  St.  Dominick,  by  Bassano^  &c. 
Further  on,  beyond  the  door  of  the 
sacristy,  is  the  monument  of  Doge 
Pasquale  MaUpiero  (died  1461).  In 
the  subjacent  niches  are  the  tombs 
of  Doge  Michael  Steno  (in  whose 
reign  Padua  was  seized,  and  Fran- 
cesco di  Carrara  barbarously  mur- 
dered in  his  prison),  with  the  painted 
statue  of  the  deceased  (ob.  1413)  and 
of  Alvise  Trevisan  (ob.  1528).  Then 
follow  monuments  of  doges  and  gene- 
rals :  an  equestrian  statue  of  Pompeo 
Q-iustiniani  (ob.  1616) ;  Doge  Giovanni 
Dandolo  (ob.  1289) ;  Doge  Tomasso 
Mocenigo,  by  Fietro  da  Firenze  and 
Martino  da  Mesole  (1423) ;  and  of 
Doge  Nicolo  Marcello,  a  fine  spe- 
cimen of  the  Lombard!  style,  by  Ales' 
scmdro  Leopardi  (1474).  At  the  altar, 
which  is  the  second  on  the  1.  hand  on 
entering  the"  church,  is  the  celebrated 
*v  St.  Peter  Martyr,  by  Titian,  perhaps 
•  his  finest  work,  indeed  considered  by 
many  the  third  picture  in  the  world, 
coming  after  the  Transfiguration  of 
Raphael  and  the  Communion  of  St. 
Jerome  by  Domenichino.  It  repre- 
sents the  martyrdom  of  the  saint.    At 


the    last   altar    is   a    fine    statue    of 
St.  Jerome,  by  Alessandro   Vittoria. 
Between  here  and  the  1st  chapel  on  L 
is    a  Coronation   of    the  Virgin,   by 
Oirolamo   da    Udine,     On  the  wall, 
on  the  l.-hand  side  on  entering   the 
principal  door,  is  the  monument   of 
the  Doge   Giovanni    Mocenigo   (died 
1485),   a  fine  work    of  Ihillio  Lorn- 
bardo.    Amongst  the  other  ducal  mo- 
numents in  this  Westminster  Abbey  of 
Venice  are  those  of  Marco  Giustiniani 
(1347),  with  rude  bas-reliefs   of  the 
Virgin  (above  is  a  picture  of  the  Vir- 
gin with  3   Senators  kneeling  before 
her,  by  J,  Tintoretto) ,  of  Doges  Alvise 
Mocenigo    (1576),    and   of  Giovanni 
Bembo  (1618),  over  the  great  entrance 
— the  two  latter  by  Qrapiglia. 

In  the  Campo  in  front  of  the 
church  stands  the  celebrated  statue 
of  Bartolommeo  CoUeoni,  the  second 
equestrian  statue  raised  in  Italy  after 
the  revival  of  the  arts,  that  of  Gatte- 
melata  by  Donatello  being  the  first  (see 
Padua).  Andrea  Verrocchio  gave  the 
design  and  model  for  it,  but,  according 
to  the  stery,  he  died  of  grief  because 
he  could  not  complete  it,  in  conse- 
quence of  the  failure  of  the  mould.  It 
was  cast  by  Alessandro  Leopardi,  whose 
name  can  be  traced  in  the  inscription 
upon  the  girth  beneath  the  horse's  body : 
"  Alexander  Leopardus  F.  opus."  This 
may  be  rendered  "fusit  opus."  Thehand- 
some  marble  pedestal  is  lofty,  supported 
and  fianked  by  composite  columns. 
Colleoni  is  said  to  have  been  the  first 
who  employed  field-pieces  in  warfiire. 
Although  this  is  not  strictly  correct, 
he  is  nevertheless  to  be  considered  as 
one  of  the  great  teachers  of  the  modem 
art  of  war.  The  statue  is  very  ani- 
mated. The  beautiful  building  which 
forms  the  N.  side  of  the  Campo,  the 
Scuola  di  San  Marco,  is  a  fine  speci- 
men of  the  richly  decorated  Venetian 
architecture  of  the  15th  century,  orna- 
mented with  coloured  marbles  in  the 
style  of  Ca'  Doro  and  Palazzo  Dario ; 
the  portal,  surmounted  by  the  Lion 
of  St.  Mark,  and  this  again  by  a  statue 
of  the  Saint,  is  very  elegant.  The  Scu- 
ola as  well  as  the  conventual  buildings 


Venetian  Prov.        Eoute  31.—  Venice — Churches. 


399 


ni 

p 


) 


behind  the  church  haye  of  late  years 
been  converted  into  an  hospital,  ac- 
commodating  on  an  average  one  thou- 
sand patients.  The  two  great  halls  of 
the  Scuola  are  fine  adaptations  of  Mar- 
tino  Lombardo's  architecture;  out  of 
the  lower  one  opened  the  chapel  of 
Santa  Maria  deUa  Face,  in  which  were 
discoyered  some  years  ago  the  sarco- 
phagus containing  the  bones  of  Marinj 
FaUer ;    it  is  now  said  to  be    use 

,  as  a  sink-cistern  in  the  laboratory  o: 

I  the  Hospital. 

Oh.  of  La  Madonna  delV  Orto,  at 
the  N.  extremity  of  the  city,  facing  the 
island  of  Murano.  A  fine  Gk)thio  edi- 
fice; the  facade  was  erected  in  1473, 
and  approaches  our  Decorated  style. 
Over  the  door  are  statues  of  the  Virgin, 
of  the  Angel  of  the  Annunciation,  and 
of  St,  Christopher,  and,  on  the  sides  of 
the  gables,  or  the  twelve  Apostles,  by 
JBaHolommeo  Bon,  who  executed  so 
much  of  the  Palazzo  Ducale.  The 
interior  consists  of  a  nave  and  two 
aisles,  separated  by  marble  columns 
supporting  pointed  arches,  probably  of 
the  end  of  the  14th  centy.  The  roof, 
flat,  and  of  wood,  was  formerly  richly 
painted.  The  church  contains  several 
paintings  by  Tinioretto,  the  two  prin- 
cipal ones  being  the  Last  Judgment,  a 
most  singular  picture,  and  of  enormous 
size,  at  least  60  ft.  by  30.  Nothing  can 
be  more  strange  than  the  composition, 
or  more  unlike  the  ordinary  representa- 
tions of  the  subject.  Opposite  to  it, 
and  of  the  same  size,  the  Worshipping 
of  the  0olden  Calf.  The  arrangement 
is  peculiar,  but  it  is  nevertheless  a  pic- 
ture of  great  power.  GPhese  two  great 
works  are  on  the  walls  on  each  side 
of  the  high  altar,  behind  which  is  a 
colossal  statue  of  St.  Christopher,  by 
Morazzone.  Besides  these,  the  church 
contained  a  fine  work  of  Cvma  da 
Coneffliano,  St.  John  the  Baptist  and 
four  other  Saints ;  the  Martyrdom  of 
St.  Lawrence,  by  VamdyTce ;  a  small  but 
fine  Madonna  and  ChUd,  by  GHovamU 
SeUini;  and  the  Martyrdom  of  St. 
Agnes;  one  of  the  most  pleasing 
pictures  of  Tmtoretto.  Before  its 
spoliation  this  church  was  the  richest 


in  Venice ;  but  much  has  been  carried 
off,  and  the  neglect  of  repairs  has 
caused  the  almost  total  destruction  of 
the  paintings  which  formerly  existed 
on  the  roof.  The  best  time  for  seeing 
this  church  to  advantage  is  towar(£ 
the  afternoon.  It  is  principally  of 
brick,  and  the  ornaments  are  formed 
out  of  that  material.  The  upper  por- 
tions were  partly  destroyed  in  1828,  by 
lightning.  In  La  Madonna  dell'  Orto 
were  buried  Tintoretto,  Alessandro 
Leopardi,  and  Bamusio,  the  celebrated 
geographer.  The  ch.  has  been  long 
undergoing  repair,  and  in  the  mean 
time  is  used  as  a  hay-store  for  tbe  Aus- 
trian cavalry  (1860),  and  the  best 
paintings  transferred  to  the  Gallery  of 
the  Academy. 

Santa  Maria  delta  Misencordia, 
more  generally  known  as  the  Ahhazia, 
at  the  N.  end  of  Venice,  and  not  fe-r 
from  the  churches  of  i  Gesuiti  and  of 
La  M.  dell'  Orto,  has  some  interesting 
works  of  art :  in  the  sacristy  a  Nativity, 
by  Sassano  i  in  the  gallery  near  the 
sacristy  are  a  Tobias  and  Angel,  by 
Cima  da  Coneffliano,  and  St.  Louis  of 
Toulouse,  by  the  same ;  an  Adoration 
of  the  Magi,  by  Tintoretto;  and  the 
Baising  of  Lazarus,  by  Palma  GHovane^ 
who  painted  also  the  Beato  Lorenzo 
Giustiniani.  In  sculpture,  the  Ma- 
donna over  the  high  altar  is  by  B.  Bon; 
it  formerly  stood  on  the  exterior  of 
the  building.  The  bust  of  the  Mag- 
dalene in  the  1st  chapel  on  1.  is  by 
Dentone;  and  a  good  bas-relief  of  the 
Deposition,  of  the  14th  centy. 

Ch.  of  8,  Maria  Formosa^  in  the 
Piazza  of  the  same  name.  This  church 
was  built  in  the  15th,  but  altered  in 
the  I7th  century.  The  well-known 
story  of  the  Brides  of  Venice  who 
were  carried  off  by  the  pirates  of 
Istria  took  place  in  this  church.  The 
memory  of  the  event  was  long  kept 
alive  by  an  annual  procession  of  Vene- 
tian women  on  the  2nd  of  February, 
and  by  a  solemn  visit  paid  by  the 
Doge  to  this  church.  Over  the  en- 
trance is  the  sarcophagus  of  Vincenzo 
Capello  (ob.  1641).  Inside  the  ch.  at 
the  first  altar  on  the  rt.  is,  by  Balma 


400 


Boute  31. —  Venice — Churches, 


Sect.  IV. 


il  Vecchio,  a  series  of  6  paintings,  with 
S.  Barbara  in  the  centre,  and  SS.  Domi- 
nick,  Sebastian,  John  the  Baptist,  and 
S.  Luigi  Gonzaga  on  each  side,  and  a 
Bead  Christ  above.  The  Santa  Bar- 
bara is,  perhaps,  the  finest  work  of  this 
master.  At  the  2nd  altar  3  paintings 
on  panel  by  Vivarini  (1473)  ;  and  at  the 
3rd  a  Dead  Christ  by  Pahna  Criovane. 
Opposite  to  the  great  entrance  to  St. 
Maria  Formosa  is  a  beautiful  Gothic 
arch  of  the  14th  centy.,  overlooking  a 
bridge  (the  Ponte  del  Paradiso). 

Ch.  of  tl^e  Madonna  dei  Miracoli, 
built  between  1480  and  1489.  The  plan 
was  produced  by  competition.  The 
name  of  the  successful  architect  is  not 
preserved ;  but  he  appears  to  have  en- 
deavoured to  get  the  prize  by  novelty  of 
style  J  and  the  exterior  exhibits  a  very 
curious  attempt  to  unite  the  Byzantine 
and  Italian  styles.  The  designs  were 
carried  into  effect  by  Pietro  Lombardo, 
and  some  portions  are  his  own.  Within, 
the  ornaments  of  the  raised  presbytery, 
in  the  centre  of  which  stands  the  high 
altar,  have  singular  beauty,  especially 
the  arabesque  rehefs  on  the  columns 
and  friezes;  and  its  elaborate  ceiUng 
in  compartments,  with  60  heads  of 
saints  in  the  BelHni  style.  In  its 
flourishing  days  the  Madonna  from 
whom  it  derived  its  name  attracted  to 
this  ch.,  wliich  was  annexed  to  a  Fran- 
ciscan monastery,  abundant  alms  and 
offerings.  The  front  is  rich  in  marbles 
and  decorations.  Titian  lived  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  this  ch. 

8ta.  Maria  della  Salute :  founded 
pursuant  to  a  decree  of  the  senate  in 
1631,  as  a  monument  of  thanksgiving 
after  the  cessation  of  the  great  pesti- 
lence, in  which  60,000  of  the  inhabitants 
are  said  to  have  died.  It  is  a  great 
octagonal  ch.,  out  of  which  opens  a 
deep  recess,  forming  the  Lady  Chapel 
and  choir,  erected  imder  the  direction 
Baldassare  Longhena.  Internally,  the 
dome  is  supported  on  eight  pillars,  the 
aisle  continues  all  round  it,  and  there 
are  eight  recesses,  seven  of  which  are 
chapels,  and  the  eighth  forms  the 
entrance.    The  interior  is   splendidly 


decorated,  and  contains  many  fine 
works  of  art.  In  the  3  first  chapels 
on  the  rt.  a  series  of  paintings,  by 
Luca  OiordanOy  of  the  Presentation 
in  the  Temple,  the  Assumption,  and 
the  Nativity  of  the  Virgin.  The  4 
large  compartments  on  the  roof  of 
the  choir  are  by  Salviati,  and  the  8 
smaller  ones,  containing  the  Evan- 
gelists and  Doctors  of  the  Church,  by 
Titian.  He  has  represented  himself 
in  the  figure  of  St.  Matthew.  In  the 
passage  leading  from  the  choir  to  the 
sacristy  St.  Mark  and  4  Saints,  by 
IHtian,  in  his  first  manner;  St.  Se- 
bastian, by  BasaUi;  and  a  curious 
bas-relief  of  the  Deposition,  attributed 
to  A.  Dentone.  The  roof  of  the 
sacristy  is  also  painted  by  him, 
representing  the  Death  of  Abel,  the 
Sacrifice  of  Abraham,  and  David  and 
Goliah.  Over  the  altar  here  is  tba 
Madonna  della  Salute,  by  il  Pcudo' 
vanino.  On  the  side  wall  of  the  sa- 
cristy are  the  Marriage  of  Cana,  by 
Tvitoretto ;  Samson  and  Jonas,  by 
Palma  GHovane;  and  2  curious  An- 
conas  by  Oristo/oro  da  Parma  (1495), 
and  Andrea  da  Murano,  of  the  X4tli 
century.  The  Melchisedec  and  the 
Triumph  of  David  on  the  opposite  waU 
are  by  Salviati.  Ketuming  into  the 
church,  in  the  3rd  chapel  on  the  L 
is  the  fine  picture  of  the  Descent  of 
the  Holy  Spirit,  by  Titian,  painted 
when  the  artist  was  in  the  fiiU  vigoup 
of  his  talent.  The  conventual  build-' 
ings  adjoining  the  church  have  been 
of  late  years  converted  into  the  Pa- 
triarch's Ecclesiastical  Seminary,  for 
which  they  are  well  suited.  The  library, 
formerly  belonging  to  the  Somaschi 
Fathers,  a  highly  cultivated  confra- 
ternity, is  remarkably  good.  Several 
fragments  of  sculpture,  sepidchral  and 
others,  of  artistical  and  historical  in- 
terest, have  also  been  removed  here 
from  desecrated  churches.  In  the  ora- 
tory is  the  tomb  of  Sansovino,  the 
sculptures  by  A.  Vittoria.  Sansovino's 
remains  had  lain  for  250  years  in  the 
ch.  of  S.  G-eminiano.  They  were  re- 
moved here  in  1820. 

Ch.  of  San  Moise,  near  the  Piazza  di 


VE2fErriAN  PfiOV. 


Route  31. —  Venice -^Clmrches* 


401 


San  Marco.  A  small  marble  slab  in 
the  floor  opposite  the  entrance  marks 
the  grave  of  John  Law,  the  celebrated 
originator  of  the  S.  Sea  scheme,  who 
died  here  in  1729.  It  was  placed  by 
his  descendant,  Marshal  Lauriston, 
when  he  was  Governor  of  Venice  in 
1808,  when  Law's  remains  were  trans- 
ferred here  from  the  ch.  of  S.  Gemi- 
niano.  There  is  a  Last  Supper,  by 
Palma  Oiovane^  and  Christ  washing  the 
feet  of  the  Pilgrims,  by  7}intorettOy  in 
the  chapel  on  the  1.  of  the  high  altar. 

Ch.  01  San  Pantaleoney  near  the  Fran, 
built  in  1668.  In  the  second  chapel  on 
the  rt.  is  St.  Pantaleone  healing  a  child, 
by  P.  Veronese ;  and  in  a  chapel  to  the 
1.  of  the  high  altar,  the  Coronation  of 
the  Virgin,  by  Q.  and  A.  da  Mttrano 
(1444),  and  a  finely  worked  Q-othic  altar 
of  the  same  period.  A  side  chapel  is 
ansanged  in  the  form  of  the  Holy  House 
at  Loreto,  with  a  good  Q-othic  group 
of  the  Virgin  and  Child ;  the  roof  of 
this  ch.  is  covered  by  an  enormous 
painting  of  the  G-loriScation  of  St. 
Pantaleo,  hyA.  Fumiani. 

Ch.  of  San  Pietro  di  Castello,  on 
the  island  of  S.  Pietro,  which  forms 
the  extreme  E.  part  of  Venice,  and 
beyond  the  arsenal,  interesting  as 
being  the  mother  church  or  cathedral 
of  Venice,  from  the  earUest  times  of 
the  republic  down  to  1807.  The  cam- 
panile (1474)  is  fine.  The  facade,  by 
Smeraldi,  was  erected  in  1594  j  the 
interior,  by  GrapigUa,  between  that 
period  and  1621.  The  church  contains 
2  paintings  by  Pasaiti,  of  St.  Peter 
enthroned,  and  St.  G«orge ;  and  others 
by  I4beri  and  Lorenzini,  and  a  St. 
L  Peter  and  St.  Paul,  near  the  3rd  altar 
ion  the  rt.,  by  P.  Veronese.  The 
rich  Vendramin  chapel,  incrusted  with 
marble,  is  from  the  design  of  Lonr 
ghena.  Near  the  2nd  altar  on  the  rt. 
is  a  curious  reUc,  an  ancient  episcopal 
seat,^  said  to  have  been  that  of  St. 
Peter,  at  Antioch,  and  given  by  the 
Emperor  Michael  III.  to  Doge  Tra- 
donico,  in  the  middle  of  the  9th  cent,  j 
the  back  is  covered  with  Oriental  in- 
scriptions, which  liave  exercised  the 
sagacity  of  some  recent  antiquaries. 


Ch,  of  H  Pedentore,  in  the  island  of 
La  Giudecca.  Tliis  church,  an  ex-voto 
built  by  the  repubUc  after  the  staying 
of  the  plague  of  1576,  is  considered 
by  the  common  consent  of  architects 
&a  the  finest  of  Palladio's  ecclesiastical 
edifices.  It  has  the  advantage  of  a 
commanding  situation  upon  the  broad 
canal  of  the  Giudecca ;  and  the  front 
exhibits  all  the  peculiar  characteristics 
and  favourite  arrangements  of  Palladio. 
It  is  entirely  his  design  and  was  begun 
by  him  in  1577.  "  Internally,  it  has  a 
fine,  wide,  single  nave,  and  this  simple 
disposition  might, be  well  imitated  in 
our  Protestant  churches.  The  arrange- 
ment and  colour  of  the  lower  part  are 
beautiful,  and  if  the  vault  were  a  semi 
instead  of  a  segment,  and  panelled  in- 
stead of  whitewashed,  it  might  be  cited 
as  a  perfect  model  of  this  mode  of 
architecture.-  The  termination  of  the 
choir  wants  consequence,  and  the  plain 
whitewashed  wall,  behind  the  semi- 
circular screen  of  columns,  is  absolutely 
disagreeable.  The  supports  of  the 
dome  are  good,  and  have  no  appear- 
ance of  insufficiency."— :rTFbo<Z«.  The 
church  contains,  at  the  1st  altar  on  the 
rt.  the  Nativity,  by  F.  Bassano ;  at  the 
3rd  the  Flagellation,  by  Tintoretto ; — at 
the  3rd  on  the  1.  a  Deposition,  by  Palma 
GHovane  ;  at  the  2nd  a  Resurrection,  by 
F.  Bassano  ;  and  at  the  1st  on  the  1.  the 
Ascension,  by  Tintoretto.  In  the  sa- 
cristy are  three  fine  works  of  Oiov^ 
Bellini:  a  Virgin  and  Child  and  two 
Angels ;  a  Madonna  between  St.  John 
the  EvangeUst  and  St.  Catherine;  and 
a  third  between  St.  Jerome  and  St. 
Francis.  The  island  of  la  Ghiudecca, 
on  which  this  church  stands,  was 
originally  called  Spinalonga :  it  re- 
ceived its  present  name  when  the  Jews 
obtained  permission  to  settle  on  it. 

Ch.  of  San  Pocco  (see  p.  405). 

Ch.  of  San  Salvatore^  near  the  Ponte 
di  Rialto,  commenced  in  1506,  and  com- 
pleted by  Tullio  Lomhardo  and  Sanso- 
vino  about  1534 ;  the  heavy  facade  was 
added  at  a  much  later  period  (1663) 
by  Sardi.  "  The  inside  has  a  nave  and 
side  recesses,  or,  as  Moschini  has  it,  a 
nave  with  three  transei^ts,  the  farthest 

T  3 


402 


Eoute  31. —  Venice — Churches, 


Sect  IV. 


/ 


of  which  is  longer  than  the  others ;  each 
intersection  is  covered  with  a  little 
dome,  and  each  dome  is  crowned  with 
a  small  lantern.  The  piers  which  sepa- 
rate these  transepts  are  perforated  in 
hoth  directions  with  a  small  arch.  The 
lights  are  kept  high,  and  the  general 
effect  is  very  good.  Where  there  is  a 
range  of  lower  arches  opening  into  the 
nave,  siurmounted  by  a  continued  cor- 
nice, the  simple  vault  forms  by  far  the 
finest  finish;  but  in  a  case  liie  this, 
where  the  side-arches  are  as  high  as 
the  nave,  the  succession  of  domes  is 
possibly .  superior,  at  least  the  upper 
and  lower  parts  seem  perfectly  suited 
to  each  other." — Woods.  Beyond  the 
first  altar  on  the  rt.  is  a  monument  of 
Andrea  Dolfin  and  his  wife,  by  Qiulio 
dal  Moro  (1602).  The  second  altar, 
and  the  statue  of  the  Madonna  and 
Cliild,  are  by  Canypagna.  Then 
comes  the  splendid  monument  of  the 
Doge  Francesco  Yenier  (died  1556),  by 
8ansovino,  executed  in  his  80th  year, 
but  exhibiting  no  mark  of  decaying 
powers.  The  same  remark  cannot  be 
applied  to  the  Annimciation  by  Titian, 
painted  by  him  when  he  was  nearly  90 
years  of  age,  and  which  is  placed  at  the 
altar,  designed  by  Sansovinoy  which 
comes  after  this  monument.  It  is  said 
that  this  is  the  painting  on  the  margin 
of  which  the  artist  wrote,  *^  I'itianus 
fecit y  fecit'"  in  order  to  silence  the 
critic  who  asserted  that  no  one  would 
believe  that  it  was  painted  by  him. 
In  the  rt.-hand  transept  in  the  centre 
of  a  Corinthian  portico,  flanked  by 
tombs  of  2  cardmals,  is  the  monu- 
V  ment  of  Catherine  Comaro,  Queen  of 
'  Cyprus ;  the  bas-relief  on  it  represents 
her  deUvering  up  her  crown  to  the 
Doge  Barberigo.  It  was  by  showing 
her  portrait  to  the  young  Lusignan 
that  her  uncle  Andrea  Comer,  then  in 
exile  at  Cyprus,  excited  first  the  pas- 
sion of  the  prince.  Lusignan  was  then 
Archbishop  of  Nicosia,  and,  being  ille- 
gitimate, without  pretensions  to  the 
throne ;  but  the  protection  of  the  Sol- 
dan  of  Egypt,  the  support  of  the 
•republic,  and  the  favour  of  the  Pope 
(Pius'  y.),    a    strange    combination, 


enabled  him  to  win  the  crown.  Ca- 
therine was  solemnly  adopted  as  the 
daughter  of  the  republic,  and  given, 
with  a  rich  dowry,  to  the  archbishop, 
who  had  ascended  the  throne  as  Xing 
James  Lusignan  11. ,  but  died  within 
two  years  after  his  marriage.  A  post- 
humous child  was  the  fruit  of  this 
union,  who,  proclaimed  as  James  III., 
died  an  imant  in  14i7^',  and  the 
repubHc,  as  the  grandfather  of  the  mi- 
nor, claiming  his  inheritance,  the 
daughter  of  Yenice  was  forced  to  ab- 
dicate, her  dear  mother,  the  republic, 
obtaining  the  sovereignty.  This  took 
place  in  1489,  when,  abandoning  her 
kingdom,  she  retired  to  the  castle  at 
Asolo  with  the  empty  title  of  Queen, 
which  she  retained  until  her  death, 
surrounded  by  a  diminutive  court,  of 
which  the  celebrated  Pietro  Bembo, 
afterwards  Cardinal,  formed  a  part  (see 
p.  338) .  Over  the  high  altar  is  the  Trsais- 
figioration  by  lotion,  also  a  work  of  his 
declining  years ;  behind  this  is  a  pala 
of  embossed  silver,  with  the  Trans- 
figuration in  the  centi:e,  executed  in 
1290,  a  veiT  remarkable  specimen  of 
Venetian  goldsmith  work  of  the  period. 
In  the  chapel  on  the  1.  of  the  high  altar 
is  a  very  fine  painting  by  Gtovanni 
Bellini  of  Our  Lord  at  Emmaus ;  in 
the  1.  transept  are  tombs  of  the  Corna- 
ros,  called  Comers  in  their  native  city, 
and  between  it  and  the  entrance  to  the 
ch.  the  monuments  of  the  doges  Griro- 
lamo  and  Lorenzo  Priuli,  in  black  mar- 
ble, after  the  designs  of  Cesare  Franco, 
with  statues  of  their  patron  saints,  by 
Qiulio  del  Moro  (1559, 1567). 

Ch.  of  &li  Scalzi,  close  to  the  Rly. 
Stat.,  built  in  1680,  the  pride  of  the 
Venetians  for  its  richness.  Longhena 
was  the  architect.  It  abounds  in  rare 
and  rich  marbles,  statues,  bas-reliefs, 
and  in  gilding.  Its  principal  treasure 
is  the  beautiftil  pictm'e  behind  the 
high  altar — a  Madonna  and  Child,  by 
Qiovcmni  Bellini.  There  are  several  sta- 
tues in  bad  taste ;  the  best  are  6  Sibyls 
by  Montuori,  on  each  side  of  the  choir, 

Ch.  of  8an  Sehastiano^  near  the  Ca- 
nale  della.  Giudecca,  was  built  by  F. 
Castifflione  of  Cremona  (1506),  except 


Ven.  Prov* 


lioute  3 1 . —  V&iuce —  Churches. 


403 


the  facade,  which  is  attributed  to  San- 
sovino  (1548).     It  is  the  burial-plaoe  of 
Faolo  Veronese.    For  the  inscription  to 
his  memory  might  be  substituted  the 
well-known  epitaph  of  Wren,  for  the 
church  contains  some  of  the  best  pro- 
ductions in  his  first  manner.    The  roof 
is  almost  covered  with  his  paintings,  of 
which  the  principal  subjects  are  taken 
from  the  Book  of  Esther,  the  three  com- 
partments representing  Esther  before 
Ahasuenis,  her  Coronation,   and  the 
Triumph  of  Mordecai  over    Haman. 
Commencing  on  the  rt.,  at  the  1st  altar 
is  a  St.  Nicolas,  painted  by  Titian  in  his 
86th  year ;  at  the  2nd  a  Madonna  by  P. 
Veronese ;  at  the  4th  the  two  Maries 
by  the  same.     The  fine  monimient  to 
Bishop   Podocataro  is  by   Sansovino 
(1556).    The  Capella  Maggiore  is  en- 
tirely painted  by  P.  Veronese,  yiz.  the 
wcture  over  the  altar,  of  the  Virgin  and 
tour  Saints,  the  Martyrdom  of  S.  Se- 
bastian on  the  rt.,  and  of  SS.  Marcus 
and  Marcellinus  on  the  1.    The  doors 
of  the  organ  are  also  by  him ;  near  the 
latter  is  his  bust  by  Bozzettiy  with  a 
most  inflated  inscription;  and  beneath, 
a  sepulchral  slab  covering  his  grave, 
upon  which  is  inscribed  the  day  of  his 
death  (May  14,  1588).    The  roof  of 
the  sacristy  has  a  fine  smes  of  frescoes 
of  the  Coronation  of  the  Virgin,  and 
the   four  Evangelists.    The  Baptism 
in  the  Jordan,  at  the  3rd  altar  on  the 
L,  is  also  by  P.  Veronese. 

Oh.  of  Scm  Stefano.  One  of  the  fijiest 
churches  in  the  Pointed  style  at  Vehice ; 
it  is  situated  in  the  Campo  of  the  same 
name,  at  a  short  distance  from  the 
Piazza  di  S.  Marco.  It  was  built  by 
the  Augustinian  friars  at  the  end  of 
the  13th  centy.  (1294-1320).  The  fine 
portal,  so  rich  in  ornament,  is  attri- 
buted to  the  Dalle  Massegrie.  The 
interior  consists  of  a  nave  and  2  aisles, 
with  a  fibae  wooden  roof,  and  contains 
numerous  sepulchral  monuments.  Of 
these,  that  of  Jacopo  Suriano,  a  phy- 
sician of  the  16th  centy.,  in  the  good 
cinquecento  style,  deserves  to  be  no- 
ticed. In  the  centre  of  the  ch.  is  the 
slab  tomb  of  Doge  Morosini,  sumamed 
il  Peleponnesiaco  (ob.  1694).    There 


are  some  good  paintings  in  the  sa- 
cristy :  Christ  washing  the  Feet  of 
the  Apostles,  the  Baptist  with  St. 
Jerome,  and  a  Last  Supper,  by  Jacopo 
Tintoretto ;  the  Virgin  and  Child  with 
St.  Roch,  by  JPalma  VeccMo ;  and  the 
Marriage  of  St.  Catherine,  by  Basaitu 
The  adjoining  cloister,  now  converted 
into  mihtary  stores,  was  erected  in 
1532  :  in  it  is  the  sarcophagus  of 
Andrea  Oontarini,  Doge  in  1367.  It 
was  during  his  reign  that  the  Venetians 
recovered  their  supremacy  over  the 
Genoese  by  the  victory  of  Chioggia 
(1380).  Francesco,  the  last  of  the  Car- 
raras,  was  buried  also  here,  but  nothing 
remains  to  show  his  resting-place. 

Tlie  Ch.  de^  Tolentiniy  near  that- 
of  I  Frari,  "  is  perhaps  one  of  the 
best  works  of  Scamozzi.  The  front 
is  a  handsome  portico*  of  six  Corin- 
thian columns,  but  the  leaves  of  the 
capital  are  uncut — ^perhaps  they  have 
never  been  finished;  and  an  open- 
ing in  the  middle  of  the  pediment  is 
disagreeable.  The  inside  consists  of  a 
nave  with  three  chapels  on  each  side, 
a  transept  with  a  dome  at  the  intersec- 
tion, and  a  choir  somewhat  narrower 
than  the  nave." — Woods,  The  de- 
sign of  the  fa9ade  was,  however,  altered 
by  Andrea  Tirali^  by  whom  the  build- 
ing was  completed  after  the  death  of 
Scamozzi.  In  the  first  chapel  on  the 
rt.  are  two  pictures  on  the  side  walls, 
by  il  JPadovanino,  representing  actions 
of  St.  Andrea  Avelllno.  And  on  the 
side  walls  of  the  3rd  chapel  are  Herod 
and  Herodias,  and  the  Beheading  of 
John  the  Baptist,  by  Bonifazio.  On 
the  1.  hand  in  the  principal  chapel  is  a 
monument  to  Patriarch  Morosini  (died 
1678),  by  Barodiy  a  pupil  of  Bernini, 

Ch.  of  San  Trovaso,  or  more  properly 
San  Gervasio  e  San  Protasio :  a  design 
of  the  Palladian  school,  built  in  1583. 
There  are  many  pictures.  In  the  Chapel 
of  the  Holy  Sacrament  is  a  rich-sculp- 
tured altarpiece  in  the  style  of  the  JBe- 
«ai««a»ce,  probably  by  Lombardi.  The 
Crucifixion  in  the  chapel,  on  rt.  of  the 
high  altar  is  by  Domenico  Tintoretto ; 
the  Temptation  of  St.  Anthony,  in  a 
chapel  on  the  1.,  the  Last  Supper, 


404 


Soide  31. —  Venice — Armenian  Convent — Scuole,      Sect.  IV. 


and  the  Washing  of  the  Feet  of  the 
Apostles,  in  that  of  the  Sacrament, 
both  by  Jacopo  Tintoretto, 

Ch.  of  San  Zaccaria.  This  church  is 
in  a  remarkable  transition  style,  built 
between  1456  and  1515,  by  Antonio 
di  Marco — Gothic  in  the  choir,  and 
semi-Byzantine  in  the  nave.  The  con- 
tinuation of  the  aisle  round  the  great 
altar  in  the  form  of  a  five-sided  tri- 
bune, with  ciroular  arches  below  and 
pointed  ones  above,  is  remarkable.  The 
pointed  arches  are  very  beautiful.  The 
western  front  seems  to  belong  to  the 
latter  date,  or  perhaps  has  been  added 
still  later,  but  the  rest  of  the  building 

is  in  a  sort  of  pointed  style The 

side  aisles  are  very  lofty,  the  clerestory 
windows  very  minute,  so  that  this  mode 
of  arrangement  seems  to  have  been 
preserved  to  the  last  period  of  pointed 
architecture.  The  statue  of  the  patron 
saint  over  the  entrance  is  by  A.  Vittoria. 
A  fine  picture  of  the  Virgin  and  Child, 
and  four  Saints,  by  Giovanni  Bellini^ 
stands  over  the  2nd  altar  on  1.  It  was 
taken  to  Paris,  has  suffered,  and  is  badly 
restored,  especially  in  the  upper  part  of 
the  Virgin  and  Angels.  In  3rd  chapel 
is  the  Birth  of  St.  John  the  Baptist, 
by  Tintoretto  \  and  the  Virgin  sur- 
rounded by  the  Apostles,  by  JPalma 
Vecchio.  Another  painting  by  Gio- 
vanni Bellini  is  the  CircimiciBion, 
within  the  choir.  The  three  altars  in 
the  side  chapel  of  S.  Tarasio  are  richly 
decorated  with  wood-carvings  and 
paintings,  and  are  remarkably  valuable 
specimens  of  early  Venetian  art ;  the 
3  Anoonas  in  compartments  here  were 
painted  by  Giovanni  and  Antonio  da 
Murano  (1443),  the  carvings  by  Ludo- 
vico  da  Friuli.  In  the  old  ch.  of  S. 
Zaccaria  were  interred  the  8  doges  of 
Venice  who  lived  between  836  and 
1172  J  in  the  present  one  are  the 
monuments  of  N.  Sanudo  by  Leopardi, 
and  of  the  sculptor  Alessandro  Vittoria 
(1595). 

San  LaaarOy  the  Armenian  convent, 
stands  on  its  own  island,  and  beyond 
the  precincts  of  the  city.  It  was  founded 
in  1717  by  the  Abbot  Mechitar.     The 


ch.  and  the  conventual  buildings  are  mo- 
dels of  neatness  and  good  order.    Here, 
as  is  well  known,  Lord  Byron  amused 
himself  by  studying  the  Armenian  lan- 
guage ;  and  he  has  borne  full  testimony 
to  the  merits  of  the  worthy  inmates. 
They  have  an  excellent  Hbrary,  with  a 
great  number  of  curious  Oriental  manu- 
scripts ;  and  the  convent  may  be   re- 
garded as  a  centre  of  Armenian  lite- 
rature.   They  are  enabled  to  print  in 
32  languages.    Many  important  works, 
such   as  the  translation  of  Eusebius, 
have   been  printed  here,  besides   the 
greater  portion  of  the  liturgical  Mid 
other  religious  books  for  the  use    of 
their  widely  disseminated  co-religionists . 
The  Armenians  are  amongst  the  most 
respectable  and  opulent  native*  mer- 
chants at  Calcutta,  and  they  contribute 
liberally  to  the  support  of  this  national 
institution.     San  Lazaro  is  imder  the 
protection  of  Turkey,  whose  flag  floated 
over  it  during  the  siege  of  1849. 

The  Scuole  of  Venice  were  institu- 
tions of  a  very  peculiar  nature,  and  of 
wliich  the  intent  could  scarcely  be 
collected  from  their  name.  Tliey  were 
associations,  composed  principally  of 
laymen,  but  acting  by  authority  of  the 
Church,  and  they  effected  most  of  the 
objects  for  which  our  modem  bene- 
volent and  charitable  institutions  are 
founded.  .  They  were  "  Blanket  and 
Clothing  Societies  j"  "  Societies  for  vi- 
siting the  Poor  in  their  own  Habita- 
tions ;"  "  Mendicity  Societies ;"  and 
provided  places  for  boys,  and  dowries 
for  maidens,  of  whom  more  than  1500 
are  said  to  have  been  annually  married 
by  their  aid.  These  rehgious  confrater- 
nities, of  which  there  were  five,  became 
very  opulent  by  the  private  contribu- 
tions, gifts,  and  legacies  which  were 
bestowed  upon  them.  The  buildings 
in  which  they  assembled  are  amongst 
the  most  remarkable  monuments  of 
ancient  Venice;  not  of  the  government, 
but  of  the  people ;  for  the  foimdationa 
were  in  the  strictest  sense  voluntary 
and  private. 

Of  these  buUdings,  perhaps  the 
ScuoJa  di  San  Marco  (which  stands 
close  to  the  cliurch  of  SS.  Giovannie 


Ven.  Pkov.      Boute  31. —  Venice — Accadema  delJe  Belle  Artu         405 


I 


Paolo)  is  the  most  remarkable.  The 
external  decorations  are  singularly 
elegant,  Byzantine  richness  blending 
itself  with  classical  architecture.  Mar- 
tino  Lombardo  has  in  this  building 
so  much  svirpassed  liis  former  pro- 
ductions, tliat  it  is  conjectured  lie  was 
assisted  by  Frate  Francesco  Colonna, 
the  author  of  the  *Sogno  di  Polifilo,' 
a  work  in  wliich  a  great  number  of 
very  singular  and  beautiful  designs  are 
introduced ;  and  who  lived  in  the  ad- 
joining monastery.  The  present  build- 
ing was  erected  soon  after  1485,  when 
a  pre-existing  one  was  destroyed  by 
fire.  The  sculptures  on  the  fa.9ade  are 
by  B.  Bon  and  Tullio  Lombardo. 
There  is  much  fine  work  in  the  in- 
terior, particularly  in  the  carvings  of 
the  ceilings.  The  building  is  now  a 
part  of  the  great  civil  hospital,  formed 
also  out  of  the  adjoining  convent  of 
the  Dominicans. 

Scuola  di  San  Rocco^  near  the  church 
of  Santa  Maria  dei  Frari.  This  was  be- 
gun in  1517,  and  completed  by  Scar- 
jtagnino  (1550).  The  principal  front  to- 
wards the  "  Campo'^  is  by  the  latter.  The 
frat-emity,  in  1560,  became  the  patrons 
of  Tintoretto^  who  continued  to  paint 
here  during  18  years.  The  lower  Sala 
is  a  magnificent  hall,  the  walls  of  which 
are  covered  with  his  paintings.  The  best 
are  the  Annimciation,  and  the  Massacre 
of  the  Innocents.  The  others  are  the 
Adoration  of  the  Magi,  the  Flight  into 
Egypt,  the  Magdalene,  Santa  Maria 
Egizziaca,  the  Circumcision,  and  the 
Assumption.  The  statue  of  the  Patron 
Saint  on  the  altar  is  by  Campagna, 
On  the  stah'case,  the  Visitation,  also 
by  Tintoretto;  the  Annunciation,  by 
Titian.  The  upper  Sala  is  also  filled 
with  paintings  by  Tintoretto;  of  the 
nine,  the  Miracle  of  the  Loaves  and 
Fishes,  the  Last  Supper,  the  Resur- 
rection, may  be  particularly  distin- 
guished for  their  richness  of  grouping 
and  invention.  The  pictvu'e  at  the  altar 
represents  S.  Rocco  in  glory,  also  by 
Tintoretto ;  the  statues  at  the  side,  St. 
John  the  Baptist  and  S.  Sebastian,  are 
by  &.  Campagna.  Round  this  hall  are 
sculptures  in  wood  j  those  on  the  side 


opposite  to  the  altar  are  by  Francesco 
Pianta,  and  a  certain  JMichael  AngelOy 
of  Florence.  The  ceiling  is  very  fine. 
The  7  compartments,  which  are  all  by 
Tintoretto^  contain  subjects  from  the 
Old  Testament,  as  well  as  the  works  in 
chiaro-scuro  on  the  sides.  Over  the 
doorway  is  the  portrait  of  Tintoretto, 
painted  by  himself,  when  he  was  66 
years  of  age.  In  the  Sala  delV  Albergo, 
so  called  because  the  fraternity  received 
their  guests  here,  is  the  Crucifixion, 
considered  to  be  his  chef-d^osuvre^  show- 
ing great  powers  of  invention  and  com- 
position ;  it  is  exceedingly  injm*ed : 
the  other  subjects  in  this  room  being 
Christ  before  Pilate,  our  Saviour  on 
Mount  Calvary,  and  the  Crowning 
with  Thorns.  The  paintings  on  the 
roof,  of  St.  Roch  in  glory,  as  well  as  all 
the  others  in  this  Sala,  are  by  TintO' 
retto.  In  the  Cancelleria  is  an  Ecce 
Homo,  by  Titian.  The  adjoining  Ch. 
of  San  Rocco  contains  many  paintings 
by  Tintoretto.  On  rt.-hand  side  of  the 
nave  is  the  Poolof  Bethesda. — In  a  cha- 
pel on  rt.  of  high  altar,  Titian,  our  Lord 
dragged  along  by  an  executioner,  much 
injured.  In  the  chapel  of  the  high 
altar,  4  large  pictures  of  acts  of  charity 
of  S.  Rocco.  This  altar  is  from  de- 
signs of  Bartolommeo  Bon,  as  well  as 
the  other  architectural  ~  decorations  of 
this  chapel,  a  fine  specimen  of  the  15th 
centy.  (1495),  the  only  part  of  the 
older  ch.  remaining.  On  the  1.  side 
of  the  nave, — Pordenone,  St.  Martin 
and  St.  CWstopher. — Moschino,  sta- 
tues of  St.  Sebastian  and  Pantaleone. 

ACCADEMIA  DELLE  BbLLE  AbTI  (open 

every  day  from  12  to  3).  The  build- 
ing in  which  the  Academy  is  located 
is  the  ancient  Convent  of  la  Carita, 
and  it  was  one  of  those  upon  which 
PaUadio  bestowed  the  greatest  study; 
we  have  besides  the  advantage  of  his 
own  explanation  of  his  design,  he  having 
published  an  account  of  it  in  his  work 
on  Architecture.  He  intended  that  the 
habitable  portion  of  the  convent  should 
represent  a  Roman  mansion,  at  least 
according  to  the  idea  which  (Pompeii 
being  tlion  undiscovered)  he  was  enabled 


e  31,—  Venioe — Acca^ania — Painiings.       Beet.  IV. 


SEETCH  OP  THE  OBOCND-PLAN  OF  XHB  PIHACOTECA   A 


to  form  of  Biioh  Btntcturee  i  bnt  it  bas 


■med 


lany 


misfortunes.      The ' 


greater  part  was  burnt  dosm  in  1630, 
the  only  part  of  PaJladio's  edifice 
now  standing  being  a  well-propor- 
tioned square  hall,  formerly  the  ea^ 
cristj  of  the  ch.,  aad  now  one  of 
the  drawing  schoolB.  On  the  Bup- 
preesiou  of  the  conrent,  the  buildings 
were  foe  some  time  occupied  as  a 
barrack,  but  in  1807,  Hapoleon  having 
decreed  the  formation  of  an  academ;  of 
fine  arts,  thej  were  arranged  for  uiat 
purpose.  The  Accademia  cooeiate  of 
the  several  schoola  necessary  for  such  an 
institution,  which  occupy  the  ground 
floor  round  the  ancient  cloister ;  and 
of  the  l^nacoieca,  consisting  cf  a  Very 
eitensiTe  collection  of  pictures,  chiefly 
of  the  Venetian  school,  Buch  as  is  not  to 
bo  found  elsewha^ ;  and  though  the 
present  appropriation  of  the  building 
was  intended  U>  preserve  it  from  farther 


degradation,  still,  to  adapt  it^  several 
alterations  were  needed,  by  which  what 
was  left  of  the  original  plan  and  design 
has  been  much  altered.  The  PisaeoUca 
ia  situated  on  the  first  fioor,  in  a  sue- 
cession  of  fine  rooms,  t«  which  con- 
eiderable  additions  have  been  made  of 
late  years.  The  catalogue  published 
in  186S  gives  merely  the  name  of  the 
painter,  the  subject,  the  looaUtj  where 
the  painting  originally  stood  and  its 
dimeasions.  The  foflowing  are  the 
objects  most  worthy  of  the  visitor's 
attention,  in  the  order  in  which  he  can 
best  go  over  the  colieotion. 

The  entrance  ia  by  the  great  court, 
and  on  the  first-fioor,  at  the  extremity 
of  a  abort  corridor,  ia  the  Vestibule 
(£  of  plan),  wliich  contains  some  spe- 
cimens of  sculpture,  a  group  of  Chiron, 
a  statue  of  Adonis,  and  a  bust  of 
Titian,  all  by  Rinaldi  of  Bomc.  Be- 
yond here  wc  enter 


Venet,  Pkov.        Boute  si. —  Venice — Accademia — Paintings,        407 


I%e  Sola  delle  Antiche  Pitiure  (I), 
containing  a  yery  interesting  series  of 
the  early  Venetian  scliool.  1.  J5«r- 
tol&mmeo  Vtvarini  (1464),  the  Vir- 
gin and  Saints. — 2.  Michele  Mattel 
da  Bologna  (about  1469),  an  Ancona 
of  many  compartments. — 3.  Michele  Gi- 
amhono  (died  about  1450),  the  Saviour 
and  four  Saints. — 5.  Lorenzo  Veneziano 
and  Francesco  Bissolo,  dated  1357, 
another  altarpiece  in  several  compart- 
ments, the  Annunciation  in  the  centre. 
— 4, 6, 7.  Marco  Basaitiy  St.  James,  St. 
Anthony,  and  a  dead  Saviour. — 8.  €Ho- 
vawni  and  Antonio  da  Murano  (1440), 
Coronation  of  the  Virgin. — 9.  B.  Viva- 
rinif  St.  Mary  Magdalen. — 11  and  13. 
Vtncenzo  Catena^  St.  Augustin  and  St. 
Jerome.  The  influence  of  Vivarini  on 
this  artist's  style  is  perceptible.  — 10, 
15, 17-20.  AJmse  Vivarini^  the  younger, 
St.  Matthev?-  and  other  Saints.  This 
artist  flourished  at  the  close  of  the 
15th  centy.  He  has  much  of  the 
feeling  ana  colouring  of  Oarpaccio. — 
14  and  21.  B,  Vivarini^  Sta.  Barbara 
and  Sta.  Chiara. — 16.  An  altarpiece  of 
many  compartments :  the  central,  repre- 
senting the  Coronation  of  the  Virgin, 
is  by  Stefeno  Pievano,  vrith  the  date 
1380.  The  8  histories  of  our  Saviour 
around,  by  unknown  artists,  are  very 
primitive  and  curious.  —  22.  Oiaco- 
mello  del  More^  the  Virgin  and  two 
Saints,  signed  and  dated  1436;  chiefly 
interesting  as  a  specimen  of  a  rare 
artist. — 23.  Oio.  di  Alema^na  and 
Antonio  da  Murano^  the  Virgin  en- 
throned, under  a  canopy  supported 
by  Angels,  with  the  four  Doctors  of 
the  Church  by  her  side.  This  large 
picture,  dated  1446,  is  curious.  The 
roof  of  this  hall  is  an  elaborate  speci- 
men of  very  beautiful  painted  and 
gilt  wood-carving  of  the  renaissance. 
From  here  opens  the 

SdladelV Assunta  (II), containing  the 
chefs-d'oBuvres  of  the  Venetian  school : 
— ^No.  24.  Titian  :  The  Assumption  of 
the  Virgin,  somewhat  blackened  by 
candles  and  incense ;  it  stood  over  an 
altar  in  the  church  of  the  Frari.  Count 
Cicognara,  suspecting  its  value,  had 
himeelf  drawn   up  to  it,  cleaned    a 


small  portion,  and,  having  obtained 
it  from  the  friars   of  the  church,  in 
exchange  for  a  new  and  bright  paint- 
ing, placed  it  in  this  gallery.    "  In  this 
picture  Titian  has  employed  the  whole 
power  of  bis  palette,  from  its  brightest 
and  purest   light  to  its  richest  and 
deepest  tone.    The  composition  divides 
itself  into  3  compartments  of  unequal 
size  J  the  largest  in  the  centre,  where  is 
the  subject  of  it,  the  Assumption  of  the 
Virgin.  Uer  action  is  grand  and  devout, 
her  character  maternal,  the  arrangement 
of  her  drapery  such  as  to  produce  a  full 
and  fine  form.     It  is  a  glorious  work, 
its  power  of  colour   is   immense :  far 
beyond  that  even  of  any  other  picture 
oiTitmnr— Phillips,  n.A.^2h.  Tin- 
toreUo,  Adam  and  Eve  taking  the  for- 
bidden Fruit. — 26.  Bonifacioy  St.  Je- 
rome, St.  Margaret. — 27.  St.  Mark. — 
28.  St.  Brmio  and  St.  Catherine.--29. 
St.  Barnabas  and  St.  SUvester.    These 
are  pictures  of,  great  ability. — 30.  An- 
drea   VicentinOf  St.  Francis  receiving 
the  Stigmata,  and  other  Saints — a  dig- 
nified and  excellent  specimen  of  the 
master ;  as  also  31.  Marco  Basaiii;  the 
CaUing    of   the    Sons   of   Zebedee. — 
32.  Tintoretto,  the  Virgin  and  Child, 
with  3  Senators. — 33.  Titian,  the  De- 
position ;   Titian's  last  work,  when  he 
was  98  years  of  age,  finished  by  Palma 
Oiovane. — 34.  Bonifacio,  SS.  Antonio 
and  Mauro. — 35.  Titian,  the  Visitation 
of  St.  Elizabeth ;  Titian's  earliest  work, 
said  to  have  been  begun  when  he  was 
only  14  years  of  age.    We  have  thus 
here,  almost  juxtaposed,  the  works  of 
the  great  chief  of  the  Venetian  school 
at  an  interval  of  more  than  80  years ; 
a  circumstance  unique  in  the  history  of 
painting. — 36.  Tintoretto,  the  Resur- 
rection.— 37.  Oiorgione,  St.  Mark  stay- 
ing miraculously  the  Tempest,  one  of 
the  principal  works  of  imagination  of 
this  painter.     (See  Kugler's  Handbook 
of  Painting^      The    subject    of   this 
picture  is  a  story  so  characteristic  of 
the  superstitious  age  in  which  it  was 
beHeved,  and  so  often  referred  to    in 
the  works  of  art  at  Venice,  that  we 
shall  give  it  here.    "  In  the  year  1341 
an  inundation  of  many  days'   conti- 


408 


Koute  31. —  Venice — Accademia — Paintings,        Sect.  IV"* 


nuance  had  raised  the  water  three 
cubits  higher  than  it  had  ever  before 
been  seen  in.  Venice,  and  dui'ing  a 
stormy  night,  while  the  flood  appeared 
to  be  still  increasing,  a  poor  old  fisher- 
man sought  what  refuge  he  could  find 
by  mooring  his  crazy  bark  close  to  the 
jRiva  di  San  Marco.  The  storm  was 
yet  raging,  when  a  person  approached 
and  offered  him  a  good  fare  if  he  would 
but  ferry  him  over  to  San  CHorgio 
Maggiore.  *  Who,'  said  the  fisherman, 
*  can  reach  San  Giorgio  on  such  a 
night  as  this  ?  Heaven  forbid  that  I 
should  try ! '  But  as  the  stranger  ear- 
nestly persisted  in  liis  request  and  pro- 
mised to  guard  him  from  harm,  he  at 
last  consented.  The  passenger  landed, 
and,  having  desired  the  boatman  to 
wait  a  little,  returned  with  a  compa- 
nion, and  ordered  him  to  row  to  San 
Nicolo  di  Lido.  The  astonished  fisher- 
man again  refused,  till  he  was  pre- 
vailed upon  by  a  further  assurance 
of  safety  and  excellent  pay.  At  San 
Nicolo  they  picked  up  a  third  person, 
and  then  instructed  the  boatman  to 
proceed  to  the  Two  Castles  at  Lido. 
Though  the  waves  ran  fearfully  high, 
the  old  man  by  this  time  had  become 
accustomed  to  them,  and,  moreover 
there  was  something  about  his  mys- 
terious crew  which  either  sdenced  his 
fears  or  diverted  them  from  the  tempest 
to  his  companions.  Scarcely  had  they 
gained  the  strait  when  they  saw  a  galley 
rather  flying  than  sailing  along  the 
Adriatic,  manned  (if  we  may  so  say) 
with  devils,  who  seemed  hurrying,  with 
fierce  and  threatening  gestures,  to  sink 
Venice  in  the  deep.  The  sea,  which 
had  hitherto  been  furiously  agitated, 
in  a  moment  became  unrufiled,  and  the 
strangers,  crossing  themselves,  conjured 
the  fiends  to  depart.  At  the  word  the 
demoniacaf  galley  vanished,  and  the 
tliree  passengers  were  quietly  landed 
at  the  spots  at  wliich  each  respectively 
had  been  taken  up.  The  boatman,  it 
seems,  was  not  quite  easy  about  liis 
fare,  and,  before  parting,  he  implied 
pretty  clearly  that  the  sight  of  tliis 
miracle,  after  all,  would  be  but  bad 
pay.     '  You  are  right,  my  friend,*  said 


the  first  passenger  5  *  go  to  the  Doge 
and  the  Procuratoriy  and  assure  them 
that,  but  for  us  three,  Venice  would 
have  been  drowned.  I  am  St.  Mark, 
my  two  comrades  are  St.  George  and 
St.  Nicholas.  Desire  the  magistrates 
to  pay  you;  and  add,  that  all  this 
trouble  has  arisen  from  a  schoolmaster 
at  San  Felice^  who  first  bargained  with 
the  Devil  for  Ms  soul,  and  then  hanged 
himself  in  despair.'  The  fisherman, 
who  seems  to  have  had  all  his  wits 
about  him,  answered  that  he  might  tell 
that  story,  but  he  much  doubted  whe- 
ther he  should  be  beUeved :  upon  which 
St.  Mark  pulled  from  his  finger  a  gold 
ring,  worth  about  five  ducats,  saying, 
'Show  them  this  ring,  and  bid  them 
look  for  it  in  my  Treasury,  whence  it 
will  be  found  missing.'  On  the  morrow 
the  fisherman  did  as  he  was  told.  (See 
P.  Bordone's  picture  in  the  first  Sala 
Nuova^  No.  493.)  The  ring  was  disco- 
vered to  be  absent  from  its  usual  cus- 
tody, and  the  fortunate  boatman  not 
only  received  his  fare,  but  an  annual 
pension  to  boot.  Moreover,  a  solemn 
procession  and  thanksgiving  were  ap- 
pointed in  gratitude  to  the  three  holy 
corpses  which  had  rescued  from,  such 
calamity  ;the  land  affording  them  burial.' ' 
—  Ten.  Hist. — 38.  Giovanni  JBelliniy  the 
Holy  Family,  with  6  Sauits,  and  3  An- 
gels playing  on  musical  instruments. 
— 39,  40,  Palma  Giovancy  the  Vision  of 
12,000,  and  the  White  Horse  of  the 
Revelations. — 41.  Contarini^  portrait  of 
a  Doge. — 42.  Bonifacio^  SS.  Dominick 
and  James. — 43.  Palma  GriovanCf  S. 
Francis.  —  44.  Paul  Veronese,  the 
Prophet  Ezekiel,  in  chiar'-oscuro. — 
45.  FintorettOy  the  Venetian  Slave 
dehvered  by  St.  Mark,  one  of  the 
wonders  of  this  school  of  painting. 
All  is  motion,  animation,  and  energy. 
It  is  certainly  one  of  the  finest 
works  of  Tintorettoi — 46.  Paolo  Ve- 
ronese,  Isaiah,  in  chiar'-oscuro. — 47. 
PadovaninOy  the  Marriage  at  Cana; 
considered  his  best  work. — 4.S.  id.y  a 
Madonna  and  Saints.  —  49  and  60. 
Ponifacioy  St.  Francis  of  Assisi  and  St. 
Paul,  and  the  Woman  taken  in  Adul- 
tery.— 53.  Tintoretto,  the  Virgin  with 


Vkn.  Prov.      Eoute  31. —  Venice — Accademia — Paintings, 


409 


Saints,  and  the  portrait  of  a  Doge. — 54. 
JBonifacio,  the  Judgment  of  Solomon, — 
55.  P.  Veronese^  the  Virgin  above,  sur- 
rounded by  Saints,  amongst  whom  St. 
Dominick  distributing  roses,  in  allu- 
sion to  the  Hosary,  and  numerous  por- 
traits, probably  of  members  of  the  con- 
fraternity for  whom  it  was  painted,  w^as, 
like  many  of  its  neighbours,  carried  off 
to  Paris. — 56.  Carlo  Caliari^  our  Lord 
"bearing  his  Cross. — 57.  Bonifacio,  th.Q 
Adoration  of  the  Magi. — 59.  Talma 
Vecchio,  the  Assumption  of  the  Virgin. 
(The  upper  part  of  the  picture  is  un- 
finished.)— 61.  Leandro  Bassano,  the 
Incredulity  of  St.  Thomas.  —  62.  P. 
Veronese^  Santa  Cristina. — 63.  Tinto- 
retto, the  Death  of  Abel. — 71.  Oian 
Bellini,  Virgin  and  Child. — 72.  Balma 
Vecchio,  St.  Stephen  and  other  Saints. 
— 74.  Cima  da  Conegliano,  like  those 
lost  from  the  church  of  La  Madonna 
del  Orta  (see  p.  399).  The  fine  gilt 
and  carved  roof  of  the  Sala  del  Assunta 
is  a  splendid  specimen,  supposed  to 
have  been  executed  by  Fra  Cheruhino 
Ottali  in  the  15th  centy.  The  painting 
of  St.  Nicholas,  Bishop  of  Mira,  in  the 
centre,  is  by  P.  Veronese,  and  the  four 
Prophets  by  D.  Campagnola,  the  Pro- 
digal Son  and  the  figures  of  Faith, 
Truth,  and  Justice,  by  Jacopo  Tinto- 
retto. Hound  the  cornice  are  portraits 
of  the  most  celebrated  artists  of  the 
Venetian  school,  by  pupils  of  the 
Academy. 

B^tuming  through  the  haU  of  the 
Ancient  Paintings  to  the  vestibule,  we 
enter 

The  Pinacoteca  Contarini  (V.,  VI.), 
a  numerous  collection  of  second-rate 
pictures,  in  two  rooms,  formed  by  a 
public-spirited  nobleman.  Count  Q-iro* 
lamo  Contarini,  and  bequeathed  by  him 
in  1843  to  the  academy.  It  consists  of 
more  than  270  specimens  arranged  in  2 
rooms.  The  best  are,  94.  Chiov.  Bellini,  a 
Madonna. — 96.  Marziali,  the  Supper  of 
Emmaus.— 117.  Franc.  Bessolo,  a  Dead 
Christ. — 125.  Cima  da  Conegliano,  a 
Madonna  with  Saints. — 132.  Boccac- 
oino  da  Cremona,  a  Virgin  and  Child 
with  Saints,  a  specimen  of  a  rare  master. 
In  the  inner  room  are  a  series  of  small 


allegorical  paintings,  234-238,  by  Gliov. 
Bellini,  which  were  originally  encased 
in  a  piece  of  furniture.  In  a  corridor 
(VII.)  opening  out  of  the  P.  Contarini 
is  a  collection  of  sculptures  in  wood, 
chiefly  ebony,  executed  by  Brustolon, 
for  the  patrician  Pietro  Venier,  &c. 

In  the  Corridors  (IX.)  leading  to  the 
Sale  Nuove. — 295.  Tintoretto,  portrait 
of  Antonio  CapeUo. — 300.  Schidone,  a 
Deposition. — 301.  Titian,  head  of  an  old 
woman,  called  Titian's  Mother. — 313. 
Giov.  Bellini,  a  Madonna  and  Child. — 
319.  !Z7fo'a»,portraits  of  Jacopo  Soranzo; 
and  350,  of  Priamo  da  Lezze. — 354.  B. 
Vtvarini,  Our  Lord  Enthroned. — 356. 
Antonello  da  Messina,  the  Virgin  read- 
ing; signed.  This  picture,  having  been 
in  the  Ducal  Palace,  appears  authentic. 
About  the  middle  of  the  15th  centy. 
this  artist  repaired  to  the  Netherlands, 
and  there,  as  it  is  said,  learned  Van 
Eyck's  secret  in  the  preparation  and 
use  of  oil-colours,  which  knowledge 
he  spread  amongst  the  Venetians.  Out 
of  the  first  of  these  corridors  opens  a 
small  room  (VIII.),  in  which  have  been 
placed  several  small  paintings,  253- 
275,  from  the  Manfrini  collection. 

Opening  out  of  this  corridor  is  a 
series  of  five  rooms,  called  the  Sale 
JPalladiane  (X.-XIV.),  containing  a 
very  miscellaneous  collection  of  smaller 
pictures,  for  the  most  part  second- 
rate. — Room  *.  456,  Cima  da  Cone- 
gliano, Our  Saviour  and  two  Saints ; 
441,  464,  Tintoretto,  two  portraits; 
443,  Jacojpo  Bellini,  a  Madonna  ;  452, 
Garofalo,  Virgin  in  Glory  with  Saints ; 
a  bust  of  the  present  Emperor  of 
Austria  has  been  lately  placed  here  at 
the  expense  of  the  Venetian  Academi- 
cians, and  on  the  occasion  of  his  escape 
from  assassination. — Room  ^  contains 
the  collection  bequeathed  to  the  Aca- 
demy by  Countess  Renier ;  429,  Cima 
da  Conegliano,  a  Dead  Christ ;  430,  Fl 
Carpaccio,  a  Virgin  and  Child;  435, 
Bissolo,  a  Madonna  with  St.  John; 
436,  Giov.  Bellini,  the  Virgin  with 
S.  Catherine  and  the  Magdalen. — 
Room  '.  394,  Semeticolo,  N.,  the  Virgin 
enthroned  (1351) ;  410,  Jacopo  Avanzi, 


410 


JRot^  SI. —  Venice — Accademia — Pcdntings,        Sect.  IV. 


a  BepoBition  (1367) ;  404,  A.  Susati, 
a  Madonna ;  407,  Jacopo  da  Valesa,  a 
Yirgin  and  Child  with  Saints,  signed 
and  dated  1309,  of  a  very  rare  master. 
— EOOM  *.  387,  £.  Vivarini,  Virgin 
and  Child;  373,  374,  375,  389,  391, 
393,  Lorenzo  Venezicmo,  an  Annun- 
ciation (1371),  and  5  Saints,  which 
once  formed  a  single  Ancona;  381, 
Andrea  da  Murano,  S.  Sebastian ;  382, 
Gentile  da  Fabrnano,  a  Madonna. — 
Boom  *.  372,  Oiov,  Bellini^  Yirgin  and 
Child ;  366,  TiTiAN,  St.  John  in  the 
Desert,  a  noble  and  vigorously  drawn 
figm*e,  in  his  best  manner  and  colour- 
ing }  367,  JBassanOy  a  Holy  Family  j 
368,  J3onifaoio,  the  Adoration  of  the 
Magi  J  360,  Caterina  Vigri,  Sta,  Ur- 
sula and  Virgins,  signed  and  dated 
1456. 

We  now  reach  the  Sale  Nuove,  form- 
ing a  series  of  large  halls  at  the  S.  side 
of  the  building. 

Prima  Sala  Nuova  (XV.).— 467.  A, 
VieentinOf  the  Deposition.  —  470.  P. 
Veronese,  and  478.  —  Carlo  Caliari, 
Angels  bearing  the  instruments  of 
our  Lord's  Passion.  —  475.  2>.  Unto- 
rettOy  the  Crowning  with  Thorns. — 
472.  Oiorgione,  portrait  of  a  Venetian 
noble. — 4-76.  Contarini,  a  similar  sub- 
ject; and,  480.  the  same,  by  JSas- 
sano.  —  481.  Fadovanino,  the  De- 
scent of  the  Holy  Ghost. — 488.  Car- 
paccio,  the  Presentation  in  the  Temple. 
— 487.  TiUa%  the  Presentation  of  the 
Virgin  in  the  Temple,  very  fine. — 492. 
Paris  Bordone,  the  Fisherman  present- 
ing the  Miraculous  Ring  to  the  Doge. — 
495.  Mocco  Morconi,  Descent  from  the 
Cross. — 496.  P.  Veronese^  SS.  Luke  and 
John.— 483,  499, 500,  604,  505.  Boni- 
faciOf  a  fine  series  of  the  master. — 498. 
Tintoretto,  the  Assumption. — 504.  id., 
the  Virgin,  with  portraits  of  4  Senators. 
— 507.  Tintoretto,  the  Virgin  in  Glory, 
with  SS.  Cosmo  and  Damiano. — 520. 
Bonifacio,  the  Virgin,  with  several 
Saints;  and,  524,  the  Adoration  of 
tlie  Magi. — 513.  Paolo  JEredi,  a  large 
Last  Supper,  in  the  stylo  of  P.  Vero- 
nese.— 5l4.  Tintoretto,  the  Crucifixion, 
with  the  3  Marys;  and,  518,  Venice, 


with  portraits  of  6  Senators. — 519. 
Paolo  Veronese,  the  Virgin  with  St.  Jo- 
seph and  St.  John  the  Baptist ;  and  521. 
Santa  Christina  forced  to  worship  the 
Pagan  idols.  The  painting  on  the  roof 
of  Santa  Elena  discovering  the  Cross  is 
by  G.  B.  Tiepolo. 

Seconda  Sala  Nuova  (XVI.).— 527. 
Seh.  Florigerio,  4  Saints,  and  the 
Madonna,  with  St.  Augustin  and 
Sta.  Monaca. — 528.  Donate  VenezianOf 
the  Crucifixion. — 529.  Gentile  Bellini, 
the  recovery  of  the  cross  dropped  into 
the  Canal  near  San  Lorenzo.  This 
is  a  very  interesting  picture,  and  a 
worthv  pendant  to  the  procession,  No. 
555,  K>r  the  numerous  portraits,  and 
variety  of  costume, which  it  exhibits;  it 
was  painted  in  1500.  Amongst  other 
portraits  is  that  of  Caterina  Comoro, 
Queen  of  Cyprus,  a  portly  dame  in 
black,  on  the  1.  of  the  painting,  the  only 
personage  wearing  a  crown. — 530,  531. 
Cima  da  Conegliano,  Justice  and  Tem- 
perance.— 532.  MaHino  da  JJdine,  the 
Annunciation,  a  picture  of  tranquil  and 
noble  beauty,  by  this  rare  master. — 534. 
Basaiti,  Christ  in  the  Garden. — 537, 
539,  542,  544,  546,  549,  552,  559,  560. 
V.  Carpaccio;  this  series  of  paintings 
represent  the  history  of  St.  Ursula  and 
the  11,000  virgins,  and  were  formerly  in 
the  Scuola  of  the  Saint  at  Venice. — 
535.  Bartolommeo  Montagna,  our  Lord 
between  St.  Eoch  and  St»  Sebastian. — 
543. — Gentile  Bellini,  a  Sanctuary,— *- 
545.  Lazzaro  Sehastiani  (a  scholar  of 
Carpaccio),  the  miraculous  Appearance 
of  the  Holy  Cross  to  Antonio  Kiccio. — 
547.  P.  Veronese,  our  Saviour  in  the 
house  of  Levi;  an  immense  picture, 
only  second  in  size  to  the  Marriage  of 
Cana,  in  the  Louvre,  covering  one  end  of 
the  hall. — 548.  Giovanni  Mansueti,  mi- 
racle of  the  Holy  Cross.  Like  Sehastia- 
ni, Mansueti  was  a  scholar  of  Carpac- 
cio, and  his  works  also  chiefly  relate 
to  the  miracles  supposed  to  hare  been 
wrought  by  means  of  the  Cross. — 
555.  Gentile  BelUni,  procession  and 
Miraculous  Cure  in  the  Piazza  di 
San  Marco ;  very  interesting,  as  show- 
ing the  state  of  the  piazza  in  1491, 


Vex.  Pkov. 


JSoute  31. —  Venice — Accademia — Theatres.  411 


and  exhibiting  the  costume  of  the 
period  in  many  animated  figures.  It 
bears  the  author's  name,  Gentilis 
Beujqji  Veneti  Equitis,  Cbitcis 
Amobe  incensus,  Opus  1491. — 35. 
VivaHm^  the  Virgin  and  Child,  with  4 
Saints. — 564.  CarpacciOy  a  miracle  per- 
formed by  the  Patriarch  of  Grrado, 
healing  a  Demoniac  by  means  of  the 
relics  of  the  Cross.  There  is  a  curious 
view  of  the  old  Ponte  di  Kialto  in  this 
picture.  —  356.  Florigero,  Madonna 
with  SS.  Augustine  and  Monica. — 562. 
Martino  da  UdinCf  a  Madonna ;  and 
563,  an  Annunciation.  From  the  ex- 
tremity of  this  hall,  on  rt.,  opens  the 
third  of  the  Sale  Nuove  (XVII.).  560- 
568.  jD.  Tintoretto,  portraits  of  Ve- 
netian Senators. — 571.  Luca  CHordano, 
Descent  from  the  Cross.— 574.  Becca^ 
pizzi,  St.  Francis  receiving  the  Stig- 
mata.— 580.  Benedetto  Diana,  a  rare 
master,  the  Virgin  enthroned,  sur- 
rounded by  Saints. — 581  and  583.  B. 
and  A.  Vivarini,  the  Angel  of  the 
Annunciation  and  the  Virgin, — 582. 
Cima  da  Conegliano,  a  large  painting 
of  the  Virgin  enthroned,  surrounded  by 
numerous  Saints. — 595  and  598.  Matteo 
Ingoli  of  Ravenna,  the  Last  Supper 
and  the  Assimiption  of  the  Virgin. — 
586.  Bonifacio,  figures  of  SS.  Benedict 
and  Sebastian. — 584.  Mansueti,  four 
Saints. —  597.  Charles  Lehrun,  the 
Magdalen  at  the  feet  of  our  Lordi 
this  painting  was  given  by  the  French 
Government,  in  1815,  to  Venice,  in 
exchange  for  the  Last  Supper,  by  P. 
Veronese,  now  in  the  Louvre,  a  most 
inadequate  compensation  for  so  great 
a  loss. 

Beyond  here  are  3  rooms  of  modem 
paintings — the  first  (XVIII.  and  XX.) 
chiefly  works  of  pupils  of  the  Academy  j 
the  central  one  (XIX.)  paintings  of  the 
last  centy. 

The  Bossi  collection  belonging  to 
this  Academy  contains  many  and  beau- 
tiful drawings  by  JRaphael,  Michael 
Angelo,  'Zeonardo  da  Vinci.  They  are 
kept  in  a  room  (IV.)  near  the  Sala  dell' 
Aflimta,  open  to  the  public  on  Tues. 
and  Sat.  from  12  to  3  o'clock.  fK 
catalogue  of  them  is  sold  by  the  porter. 


There  are  also  here  some  excellent 
relievos  in  bronze,  4  alto-relievos,  pro* 
bably  by  Micci  of  Padua. 

The  Sala  delle  Sadunanze  Accade- 
miche,  or  room  in  which  the  Academy 
holds  its  meetings,  is  a  fine  apart- 
ment, with  20  small  paintings  of 
Angels,  Evangelical  Symbols,  &c.,  by 
Titian.  Over  the  chair  of  the  presi- 
dent is  a  vase  of  porphyry,  containing 
the  right  hand  of  Canova,  with  his 
chisel  above. 

The  Binacoteca  Manfredini  is  depo- 
sited in  the  buildings  of  the  Ecclesias- 
tical Seminary  attached  to  the  ch.  of 
Santa  Maria  delta  Salute  (see  p.  400), 
to  which  establishment  it  was  be- 
queathed by  its  late  owner.  It  contains 
amongst  other  pictures  a  portrait  of 
Pietro  Aretino  by  Titians  a  head  of 
St,  John  the  Baptist  by  A.  Durer;  a 
Holy  Family  by  L.  da  Vinci,  bearing 
the  arms  of  the  Sforza  Pallaviginis ; 
an  Annunciation  by  Daniele  da  Vol' 
terra ;  a  Virgin  and  Child  by  Fra  Bar- 
tolommeo,  and  a  Deposition  by  JPietro 
Perugino  (?);  some  fine  sketches  by  Cor- 
reggio  for  the  frescoes  of  the  Duomo  of 
Parma.  The  cloister  of  the  Seminary 
is  filled  with  monuments  and  inscrip- 
tions saved  from  demoUshed  and  dese- 
crated churches,  amongst  which  the 
sepulchral  urn  of  Doge  F.  Dandolo,  of 
the  14th  centy.,  and  the  gravestone 
of  the  painter  GHacomello  del  Fioro 
(1433).  The  keys  of  the  gates  of  Padua, 
brought  away  when  it  was  seized  by 
the  Venetians,  are  hung  upon  one  of 
the  walls. 

Theatres.  The  principal  theatre  is 
la  Fenice,  originally  built  in  1791,  but 
burned  down  in  1836.  It  is  handsome 
and  of  a  good  size.  It  is  open  during 
the  caChiival,  i.  e.  during  the  early 
months  of  winter,  and  sometimes  in  the 
spring,  for  the  performance  of  operas 
and  ballets.  The  office  for  places  is, 
during  the  day,  situated  about  the 
middle  of  the  Procuratie  Vecchie.  The 
price  of  admission  is  1  florin. 

The  next  theatre  after  the  Fenice 
is  the  Teatro  &allo,  so  called  from  the 
name  of  its  proprietor,  also  known  by 


412     R,  31. —  Venice — Artesian  Wells — Plan  for  Visiting.      Sect.  IV. 


the  name  of  Teatro  San  Benedetto. 
In  autumn,  winter,  and  spring,  a  com- 
pany, usually  second-rate,  perform 
operas  at  this  theatre.  Wlien  the 
Fenice  is  shut  the  performances  are 
rather  better. 

The  Teatro  Apollo^  a  San  Luca^  is 
generally  open  for  the  drama. 

The  Teatro  San  Samtiele  is  rarely 
open.  It  is  a  pretty  theatre,  well 
adapted  for  hearing.  Opera  bufias  are 
performed  here. 

The  Teatro  Malihran  is  near  the 
Rialto.  It  is  opened  during  the  day, 
evening,  or  night.  It  is  large.  The 
amusements  consist  of  rope-dancing, 
sword-swallowing,  and  such-hlce  per- 
formances. 

The  Qiardino  Fublico^  or  Public 
Promenade,  occupying  the  triangular 
space  at  the  E.  extremity  of  Venice, 
was  laid  out  by  the  French,  but  has 
been  extended  and  improved  of  late 
years*.  Its  distance  causes  it  to  be 
little  resorted  to.  The  views  from  it 
over  the  Lido  and  the  Islands  are  fine. 
At  the  N.  extremity  of  the  city  is  the 
Botanic  Garden^  or  Orto  Botanico,  in 
the  conventual  gardens  of  the  sup- 
pressed convent  of  San  Q-iobbe. 

Artesian  Wells — Supply  of  water. — 
Several  Artesian  wells  have  been  sunk 
at  Venice  (in  1847),  at  the  expense  of 
the  municipality,  and  under  the  direc- 
tion of  a  French  engineer,  M,  De- 
goussee.  Situated  in  the  midst  of  a 
salt  marsh,  Venice  had  hitherto  been 
dependent  on  its  cisterns  for  fresh 
water,  or  on  its  being  brought  from 
the  mainland  in  large  flat-bottomed 
boats,  attended  with  great  expense.  M 
Degoussee,  who  had  executed  several 
works  of  this  kind  in  France,  was 
led  from  geological  considerations  to 
conclude  that  an  ample  supply  of  fresh 
water  might  be  obtained,  at  an  in- 
considerable depth  and  expense,  and 
the  result  has  fully  confirmed  his 
previsions.  Before  the  Revolutionary 
movement  in  1848  no  less  than  seven 
Artesian  wells  were  pouring  forth  un- 
ceasing streams  of  fresh  water,  and 
supplying  fountains  in  several  of  the 
squares  of  Venice;   and   although  at 


first  prejudices  were  raised  against  it, 
from  its  slightly  chalybeate  quality, 
it  has  come  into  general  use,  and  is 
greatly  superior  to  that  of  ill-kept 
cisterns,  or  of  the  muddy  rivers  of 
the  mainland.  It  will  interest  the  tra- 
veller to  visit  some  of  these  fountains, 
spouting  on  the  borders  of  the  Laguna, 
as  in  the  Piazzas  of  Santa  Maria  For- 
mosa, of  the  Ghesuiti,  &c.  The  water 
contains  a  small  quantity  of  iron  and 
some  vegetable  matter,  the  latter  de- 
rived from  the  peaty  stratum  through 
which  it  filters.  It  is  supposed,  witii 
great  probability,  that  the  water  which 
rises  to  the  siirface  through  these 
borings  has  fallen  in  the  form  of  rain 
upon  the  mountains  bordering  on  the 
Lago  di  Garda.  It  has  been  lately  pro- 
posed to  carry  into  Venice,  by  means  of 
pipes  laid  on  the  Rly.  viaduct,  an  addi- 
tional supply  of  water  from  the  river 
Sele. 

Blan  for  visiting  the^  Sights  at  Venice 
and  its  JEnvirons  in  six  days,  in  topo- 
graphical order. 

1st  dag. — Piazza  di  S.  Marco  ;  Ca* 
thedral  of  S.  Marco ;  Campanile ; 
Ducal  Palace,  its  Lihrary,  Collections, 
&c. ;  Zecca;  Chs.  of  S.  Giorgio  de* 
Greci  and  8.  Zaccaria ;  Campo  della 
Bragola. 

2nd  day. — Ch.  of  Sta.  Maria  Formosa; 
Pal.  Grimani;  Chs.  of  S.  Maria  d^  JK*- 
racoli,  S.  Salvatore  ;  Ponte  di  Bialto  ; 
Fondaco  dei  Tedeschi  smdMuseoVeneto; 
Chs.  of  8.  GHacomo  di  RiaUo,  SS.  G-iO' 
vanni  e  Paolo;  Scuola  di  8.  Marco, 
and  Hospital;  Ch.  of  i  Gesuiti :  return- 
ing by  the  Canals  to  the  Ch.  of  Sia. 
Maria  dei  Frari ;  Archives  ;  Scuola  di 
8.  Rocco;  Chs.  of  S.Pantaleone,  iTolen- 
tini,  and  H  Carmine  ;  house  of  Othello. 

^rd  day. — Chs.  of  S.  3fo*^' and  S, 
Stefano ;  Accademia  delle  Belle  Arti  ; 
Ch.  of  Sta.  Maria  della  Salute  and 
Pinacoteca  Manfredini;  Chs.  of  i  Ge- 
suati,  8.  Trovaso,  and  S.  Sebastiano, 
Cross  to  the  island  of  La  Giudecca : 
Chs.  of  II  Bedentore,  and  8,  Giorgio 
Maggiore. 

4th  day. — Arsenal ;  Ch.  of  8.  Pietro 
di  Casteilo  ;  Giardino  Pubblico ;  round- 


Vkn.  Prov.         Houte  31. —  Venice — Islands — Murano, 


413 


ing  from  the  Isola  di  S.  Pietro  to  the 
island  of  Murano  ;  Public  Cemetery ; 
Chs.  of  S.  Michele  and  8.  Pietro 
McMrtire :  returning  to  Venice  by  the 
Ch,  of  S.  Giohhef  the  Botanic  Gardens, 
Ghettos,  and  the  Ch.  of  Sta,  Maria  in 
Orio  ;  Ch.  of  *  Scalzi ;  and  excursion 
down  the  Great  Canal  to  the  Piazzetta 
di  S.  Marco  ;  Merceria. 

hth  day. — Excursion  to  MuranOy  if 
not  previously  seen,  and  Torcello. 

6th  day. — Excursion  to  the  Islands 
of  S.  GHorgio,  S.  Lazzaro,  the  Lido, 
Malamocco,  and  Chioggia. 


EXCUBSIONS  IK  THE  NeIGHBOUEHOOD 

OP  Venice. 

Some  of  the  islands  roimd  Venice 
contain  objects  well  deserving  of  a  visit. 
They  may  be  easily  reached  in  a  gon- 
dola. To  Murano  in  half  an  •  hour 
— ferry-boats  from  the  Fondamenta 
Nuove;  to  Torcello  in  IJ  hour,  two 
rowers  necessary. 

Murano  is  the  largest,  and  was 
formerly  the  most  flourishing,  with 
a  Pop.  of  4500.  The  distance  from 
the  N.  of  the  city  is  scarcely  a  mile. 
It  is  well  known  that  the  glass  ma- 
nufactures of  Murano  were  the  most 
renowned  in  Europe,  not  only  dm'ing 
the  middle -ages,  but  even  till  the  be- 
ginning of  the  present  centy.  Mirrors, 
flafiks,  drinking-cups,  and  an  inflnite 
variety  of  small  articles  for  which 
Venice  was  so  celebrated,  were  made 
here.  At  present  it  is  carried  on  in  7 
establishments,  employing  about  2500 
bands,  beads  for  the  Eastern  market 
and  coloured  glass  constituting  the 
principal  articles  manufactured. 

The  chief  objects  of  interest  at  Mu- 
rano are — 

The  Duomo  or  Cathedral,  and  the 
church  of  St.  Pietro  MarUre. 

"  In  the  year  1125  Domenico  Mi- 
chael, 34th  Doge  of  Venice,  took  the 
island  of  Cephalonia  on  his  return 
from  the  Holy  Land,  and  brought 
from  thence  .the  body  of  San  Donato, 
once  Bishop  of  Evorea,  in  Epirus. 
Tliis  treasure  he  deposited  in  the  an- 


cient church  of  Sta.MaHa^  at  Murano. 
The  probability  is  that  the  church  was 
entu'ely  rebuilt  soon  after  this  trans- 
action, as  the  style  of  its  architecture 
is  in  accordance  with  that  of  the  12th 
centy.  The  eastern  apse  exhibits  one 
of  the  richest  specimens  of  external 
decoration  in  the  Lombard  style.  From 
the  veneration  of  the  saint  the  church 
oi  8ta.Mariavf2s>  soon  called  S.Donato. 
In  front  of  the  high  altar  is  a  bas-rehef 
of  San  Donato,  carved  in  wood,  which 
was  executed  by  some  Venetian  artist 
at  the  beginning  of  the  14th  centy." — 
Q-.  Knight, 

The  vaulting  over  the  altar,  covered 
with  gold,  contains  only  one  figure, 
a  lengthened,  ghastly  Virgin,  in  the 
stiflest  Byzantine  style,  with  the  G^reek 
monogram,  not  later  than  the  12th 
cent.  The  colimms  which  separate  the 
nave  from  the  two  aisles  are  of  white 
marble,  with  Corinthian  capitals,  and, 
Uke  those  of  TorceUo,  were  probably 
brought  from  the  ruins  of  Altinum. 
The  pavement  resembles  that  of  St. 
Mark.  It  exhibits  various  patterns; 
many^are  like  what  are  foimd  in  the  Ro- 
man tesselated  pavements.  An  inscrip- 
tion in  the  centre  gives  us  the  exact 
date  (114-0).  In  other  parts  the  church 
has  been  modernised.  Behind  the  high 
altar  is  the  curious  wooden  bas-reHef 
above  mentioned,  of  San  Donato,  in- 
cluding the  portraits  of  the  Podesta 
Memmo  and  Ids  wife,  dated  1310,  and 
said  to  be  amongst  the  earliest  known 
specimens  of  the  Venetian  school,  as 
the  inscription  is  one  of  the  oldest  in 
the  Venetian  dialect.  Before  leav- 
ing this  church,  the  visitor  will  do  well 
to  observe  the  outside  of  the  penta- 
gonal tribune,  with  its  double  row  of 
rounded  arches  in  the  Arabo-Lombard 
style,  and  which  by  some  is  s^ip- 
posed  to  date  as  far  back  as  the  10th 
centy. 

The  church  of  S.  Pietro  Martire, 
erected  in  the  15th  centy.,  contains  a 
picture  by  Oiov.  Bellini,  a  Madonna 
with  two  Saints,  with  the  portrait  of  the 
Donor,  Doge  A.  Barberigo  (1488),  and 
a  Crucifixion  by  Salviati, 

Between  the  group    of  islands 


414 


Route  31. —  Venice — Islands — Torcello, 


Sect.  IV. 


Murano  and  the  N.  part  of  Venice  is 
the  small  island  of  S.  Michele,  on 
which  stands  the  church  of  San  Mi- 
chele  di  Murano,  erected  in  the  15th 
cent,  by  the  architect  Moro  or  Moretto. 
It  is  rich  both  within  and  without. 
The  inscription  to  the  memory  of  the 
Oreek  monk  Eusebius  was  composed  by 
Aldus  Manutius ;  the  ornaments  which 
surround  it  are  remarkable.  The 
sepulchral  slab  which  covered  the 
grave  of  Fra  Paolo  Sarpij  it  for- 
merly stood  in  the  church  of  the  Ser- 
vites  at  Venice,  and  was  removed  here 
after  its  desecration  in  1796  j  the  friars, 
however,  to  please  the  clergy,  effaced 
the  inscription,  which  the  authorities 
have  obliged  them  to  restore.  It  is  in 
the  pavement  close  to  the  door.  The 
statues  on  the  monument  of  Doge  G. 
Delfino  are  by  Bet^nini.  Connected 
with  the  church  is  the  CapeUa  Emi- 
liana,  a  beautiful  structure,  by  Chugliel- 
mo  Bergamnsco,  built  about  1530.  The 
church  of  S.  Michele  formed  a  part  of 
the  large  conventual  establishment  of 
the  Carmelite  friars,  which  existed 
from  1210  imtil  its  suppression  in 
1810 ;  it  has  now  been  transferred  to 
the  Capuchins,  and  the  grounds  of  the 
monastery  converted  into  the  great  pub- 
lic cemetery  of  Venice,  'forming  the  E. 
part  of  which  is  the  Protestant  burying- 
place,  where  Hes  James,  the  novehst,  who 
died  when  Consul-General  here.  Erate 
Mam'O,  the  celebrated  geographer  (see 
p.  380)  of  the  15th  centy.,  was  a  member 
of  this  community,  and  here  he  com- 
posed his  celebrated  Mappe-monde ; 
and  in  our  own  times  the  enlightened 
Cardinal  Zurla,  the  historian  of  the 
Venetian  Navigators,  and  the  late  Pope, 
Gregory  XVI.,  as  Padre  Mauro  Oap- 
pellari. 

4  m.  beyond  Murano  are  the  Isola  di 
Mazorho  and  Isola  di  Burano. — These 
islands  contain  much  garden-ground : 
a  large  proportion  of  the  vegetables 
consumed  at  Venice  are  grown  upon 
them.  The  Inhab.,  about  5000,  of  whom 
one-half  are  fishermen,  are  industrious, 
and  preserve  some  features  of  the  an- 
cient character  of  the  Venetians.  There 
are  two  old  Venetian  paintings  in  the 


ch.  of  Burano :  one,  the  Flight  into 
Egypt,  and  the  Adoration  of  the  Magi, 
in  the  style  of  Giov.  Bellini.  Beyond 
Burano,  forming  one  of  the  same  group, 
and  about  1  m.  distant,  is 

The  Isola  di  TbrccZZo.—"  Torcello 
was  the  parent  island  of  the  Venetian 
states;  the  spot  to  which  the  un- 
fortunate inhabitants  of  Altinum  and 
Aquileia  fled  for  safety  when  their 
homes  were  made  desolate  by  the 
northern  invaders.  Torcello  thus  peo- 
pled  became  a  town,  and  had  its  ca- 
thedral and  its  bishops,  long  before  the 
existence  of  St.  Mark^s,^ '  Others  sought 
refuge  here  from  the  desolating  and 
persecuting  arms  of  the  Arian  Lom- 
bards ;  and  to  escape  their  yoke  Paul 
Bishop  of  Altino  translated  his  see 
here  about  the  year  635,  taking  with 
him  the  reUcs  and  treasures  of  the 
cathedral  which  he  abandoned.  The 
dig  seems  to  have  decayed  as  early  as 
the  11th  centy. ;  but  the  succession  of 
the  Episcopal  see  continued  until  the 
revolution,  as  well  as  the  repuhlic. 
There  was  a  podestJl  and  senate  of  Tor- 
cello, in  whom  all  the  rights  of  the 
ancient  community  were  vested,  and 
who,  amongst  other  privileges,  conferred 
titles  of  nobihty  on  such  as  were  will- 
ing, like  our  primitive  baronetcy,  to 
assist  the  treasury  of  the  state — in  tliis 
instance,  by  the  payment  of  ten  zec- 
chini,  somewhat  about  five  poimda. 
sterhng. — "  In  process  of  time  Torcello 
was  enriched  with  the  remains  of  Sa. 
Fosca,  a  virgin  of  noble  birth,  who, 
together  with  her  nurse,  Maura,  had, 
during  the  persecution  of  Decius,  earned 
the  pahn  of  maJrtyrdom  at  Ravenna, 
her  native  city.  #  «  #  * 
The  time  at  which  the  body  of  Sa. 
Fosca  was  brought  to  TorceUo,  and 
consequently  the  exact  date  of  this 
buildmg,  is  unknown ;  but  the  church 
must  have  existed  before  the  year  1011, 
because  in  that  year,  as  is  proved  by  a 
deed  cited  by  Comehus,  two  sisters, 
Maria  and  Bona,  natives  of  Torcello, 
endowed  the  church  of  Sa.  Fosca  with 
certain  lands.  The  building  itself  pre- 
sents all  the  appearance  of  remote  an- 


Ven.  Prov.        Eoute  31. —  Venice — Cathedral  of  Torcello, 


415 


tiqtiity.  Upon  the  whole,  we  may 
safely  assume  that  it  is  at  least  as  old 
as  the  10th  centy.  The  plan  of  this 
building,  whenever  it  was  erected,  must 
have  been  imported  from  the  East ;  for 
Sa.  Eosca  is  not  a  Latin  Basilica,  but 
the  square  church  of  the  Gh^eets,  sur- 
mounted by  the  Oriental  cupola.  The 
capitals  of  the  pillars  of  the  porticoes 
by  which  it  is  surroimded  are  very 
peculiar ;  neither  formed  after  Roman 
models,  nor  admittmg  Lombard  ima- 
gery. These  were  also  probably  of 
Byzantine  extraction.  The  interior  is 
gracefaUy  designed,  consisting  of  a  pe- 
ristyle 01  insuhited  columns  and  piers, 
which  together  support  the  dome.  The 
Martyrdom  of  Santa  Fosca,  over  the 
high  altar,  is  by  G,  Moro.  The 
church  underwent  restoration  at  dif- 
ferent times — in  1247,  and  again  at  a 
later  period ;  but  the  original  character 
of  the  building  has  been  preserved." 
G.  Knight, 

Near  to  the  church  of  S.  Eosca 
stands  the  Duom<5,  or  Cathedral  of 
Torcello^  in  the  same  state  in  which  it 
was  rebuilt  in  the  begianing  of  the 
11th  centy.,  by  Orseolo,  Bishop  of  Tor- 
cello,  and  son  of  the  celebrated  Doge 
Pietro  Orseolo.  This  edifice  neither 
resembles  its  Lombard  contemporaries 
nor  its  Byzantine  neighbour,  but  might 
be  thought  more  ancient  than  it  really 
is,  as  it  is  bmlt  on  the  Latin  plan,  and 
in  the  more  Bioman  style  of  the  old  ba- 
silicas. The  fiact  is  that  the  Venetians, 
from  their  maritime  and  commercial 
pursuits,  were  always  accustomed  rather 
to  look  abroad  tnan  to  Lombardy  for 
their  models  ;  and  if  this  cathedral  is 
in  the  Boman  and  not  in  the  Byzantine 
style  (as  were  most  of  the  Venetian 
bi^di^gs),  it  perhaps  was  copied  from 
a  church  still  existing  on  the  opposite 
shores  of  the  gulf — the  cathedral  of 
Parenzo,  in  Istria,  which  was  built  in 
the  6th  centy.,  and  to  wliich  the  cathe- 
dral of  Torcello  bears  a  strong  resem- 
blance. 

"  The  chancel  of  the  cathedral  of  Tor- 
cello is  very  remarkable.  In  this  in- 
stance, behind  the  principal  apse,  there 
are  6  additional  apses,  separated  from 


the  sanctuary  by  an  intervening  aisle, 
introdudng  a  change  which  places  the 
choir  very  much  in  that  insulated  po- 
sition whieh  it  occupies  in  later  build- 
ings. Nor  is  this  the  only  peculiarity 
of  this  chancel.  The  principal  apse  in 
this  instance,  and  in  this  alone,  has  in- 
ternally the  appearance  of  a  theatre. 
8  semicircular  steps  of  white  marble 
rise  above  each  other,  forming  seats  for 
the  clergy  of  different  degrees,  and  con- 
ducting, as  it  were,  to  the  bishop's 
throne,  which  occupies  the  central  spot 
at  the  summit." — &.  Knight. 

The  vaulting  of  the  chancel  is  covered 
with  figures  of  the  Apostles  in  mosaic  t 
above  are  those  of  the  Virgin  and  Sa- 
viour, of  12th  centy.  At  opposite  end 
of  the  ch.,  over  the  principal  entrance, 
are  a  series  of  mosaic  compartments  of 
an  earher  period,  probably  Byzantine, 
remarkably  bright  and  crude.  They 
are  arranged  in  six  rows,  and  represent 
the  Crucifixion ;  Limbo  or  Hades  j 
Christ  in  glory  surrounded  by  Angels  j 
the  Last  Judgment,  where  Kings  and 
Emperors  are  introduced  as  usual,  their 
costume  Byzantine ;  HeU  and  Heaven, 
or  the  Happiness  of  the  Blessed  and 
Punishment  of  the  Wicked.  The  Vir- 
gin on  the  arch  of  the  door  is  of  the 
same  period.  As  works  of  art  they  are 
curious,  because,  hke  the  monkish  tales 
of  equal  merit,  they  must  have  been 
designed  to  excite  the  devotions  of 
the  pious,  and  the  fears  of  the  wicked. 
The  choir  retains  its  original  reading- 
desks  of  marble,  and  the  enclosure  of 
marble  worked  in  Greek  patterns.  The 
Pala  or  altar-table,  of  embossed  silver, 
is  of  Greek  workmanship  j  only  some 
few  compartments  remain,  ana  these 
are  now  affixed  over  the  entrance  of  the 
choir.  In  a  chapel  on  the  1.  of  the 
choir  are  also  some  curious  mosaics  of 
the  11th  and  12th  centuries,  with  Latin 
inscriptions.  The  windows  are  not 
the  least  curious  part  of  the  structure. 
They  were  closed  by  slabs  of  stone. 
Some  of  the  windows  are  now  glazed, 
but  those  on  the  S.  side  of  the  ch.  re- 
main unchanged.  The  crypt  is  older 
than  the  ch.,  probably  of  the  7th  centy.  j 
it  is  semicircular,  and  surrounded  by 


416 


Route  31. —  Venice — The  Lido, 


Sect.  IV. 


niches.  The  bell-tower,  which  stands 
quite  detached  from  the  ch.,  beyond 
the  eastern  end,  may  be  ascended  with- 
out difficulty.  From  the  top  a  fine 
view  is  obtained  of  the  Alps  and  of  the 
Adriatic :  and  the  character  of  the  N. 
portion  of  the  Lagoon,  and  of  the  islands 
in  it,  may  be  well  obseiTed  from  it. 

Amongst  the  other  ciuiosities  of 
Torcello  is  the  Palazzo  del  Commune, 
of  the  13th  cent.,  and  a  massive  stone 
chair,  standing  in  an  open  field,  and 
called  the  "  Th/rone  of  Attila."  It  is 
perhaps  the  seat  in  which  the  chief 
magistrates  of  Torcello  were  inaugu- 
rated. About  6  m.  from  Torcello, 
through  intricate  canals,  is  the  village 
of  Altino,  near  one  of  the  branches  of 
the  Sele  where  it  enters  the  Lagoon  j 
it  is  now  a  poor  place,  and  offers  nothing 
to  attract  the  traveller,  although  occu- 
pying the  site  of  the  once-flomishing 
Altinumy 

. , ,  «  iEmula  I^Janls  Altini  littora  villls." 

Martial. 

The  Lagoon,  immediately  opposite  to 
Venice,  is  closed  by  a  long  sandy  island, 
extending  from  the  Pass  of  the  Lido  to 
that  of  Malamocco.  The  N.E .  entrance 
into  the  Lagoon  is  protected  by  the 
Forte  di  S.  Nicolo,  constructed  by  San- 
micheli.  The  plan  of  the  fortress  is  a 
pentagon ;  and  the  foundations  were 
not  laid  without  great  difficulty.  San- 
micheli  was  much  censured,  and  it  was 
bruited  about  that  the  edifice  was  inse- 
cure. Such  an  accusation  might  have 
cost  the  architect  his  head,  but  the 
senate,  as  the  story  goes,  determined  to 
prove  the  fortress.  The  40  embrasures 
were  mounted  with  the  largest  guns, 
double  charged,  and  all  were  fired 
simultaneously,  but  not  a  stone  was 
moved,  and  Sanmicheli's  detractors  were 
dismissed  with  deserved  contumely. 

The  shore  of  this  Litorale,  towards 
the  Adriatic,  constitutes  the  Lido^  noAv 
associated  with  the  name  of  Byron,  as 
the  spot  where  he  used  to  take  his  rides, 
and  where  he  intended  to  have  been 
buried.  Tombs  there  are  already; 
ancient  Jewish  sepultures,  moss-grown, 
and  half  covered  with  drifted  sand, 
adding  to  the  gloomy  feeling  of  the 


soUtude ;  the  few  trees  are  old  and 
stunted,  the  vegetation  is  harsh  and 
arid,  all  around  seems  desolate.  The 
sunrise  as  seen  from  here  is  magnifi- 
cent. The  Lido  is  much  frequented 
during  the  bathing  set^on,  Aug.  and 
Sept.  The  bathing  is  excellent.  Aii 
omnibus  gondola  runs  to  it  several 
times  a  day  from  the  Piazetta. 

Excursion  to  Chioggia ;  in  Venetian, 
Chiozza. — During  the  summer,  a  steam- 
boat leaves  for  Chioggia  every  second 
day  at  8  a.m.,  retiu'ning  on  the  alternate 
ones,  calling  at  Pelestrina  and  Mala- 
mocco to  land  and  take  up  passengers  ; 
and  on  Sundays,  during  the  summer, 
at  the  same  hour,  returning  to  Venice 
the  same  evening.  The  distance  be- 
tween Venice  and  Chioggia  is  about 
20  m.,  which  is  performed  in  2  hrs. 
It  is  an  excursion  worth  making,  as 
thereby  a  good  general  view  of  the 
Lagoon,  S.  of  Venice,  of  the  small 
islands  studded  in  it,  and  of  the  2 
long  ones  which  separate  the  Lagoon 
from  the  Adriatic,  is  obtained.  Chi- 
oggia, too,  preserves  those  features  of 
a  fishing  and  mei'cantile  settlement 
amid  the  waters,  which  in  Venice  dis- 
appeared under  the  splendour  of  the 
CapitaL  The  excursion  can  hardly  be 
made  in  the  same  day  in  a  gondola,  be- 
cause even  with  2  rowers  between  4j 
and  5  hrs.  would  be  required  for  the 
voyage. 

The  steamer,  leaving  her  moorings 
opposite  to  the  Riva  dei  Schiavoni, 
proceeds  down  the  Orfano  Canal, 
leaving  on  the  1.  the  islands  on 
which  are  the  lunatic  asylum,  and  S. 
Lazzaro  wliich  contains  the  Armenian 
convent,  and  on  the  rt.  La  Grazia : 
then  entering  the  canal  of  S.  Spirito, 
it  passes  on  the  1.  S.  Clemente,  where 
there  is  a  House  of  Detention  for 
Ecclesiastics,  and  S.  Spirito,  a  powder 
magazine,  and  on  the  rt.  the  Lazzaretto 
di  Poveglia.  It  then  runs  nearer  to 
the  long  island  of  the  Lido,  passing 
before  the  town  of  Malamocco,  and 
2  m.  further  entering  the  pass  of  the 
same  name.  Further  on,  opposite 
the  Fort  Alberoni,  which  is  at  the  ex- 
tremity of  the  island,  and  guards  the 


VifiNETiAK  Pbov.  Eoute  31. — CUoggia. 


417 


Malamocco  entrance  on  the  N.,  the 
steamer  passes  out  from  the  Lagoon 
into  the  Adriatic,  as  there  is  not  always 
sufficient  water  in  the  channel  inside 
of  the  island  of  Pelestrina.  Exten- 
sive moles,  formed  with  large  blocks 
of  stone  brought  from  Istria,  are 
seen  on  each  side  of  the  Malomocco 
entrance :  these  have  been  made  of  late 
years  in  order  to  increase  the  scour  at 
the  ebbing  of  the  tide  by  contracting 
the  width  of  the  channel,  and  thereby 
produce  a  greater  depth  in  the  pass ; 
this  has  succeeded  so  well  that  vessels 
drawing  20  feet  water  can  now  enter 
the  Lagunes  through  it.  On  entering 
the  Adriatic  the  steamer  coasts  along 
and  at  a  short  distance  from  the  long 
island  of  Pelestrina,  on  which  are  a 
succession  of  small  towns,  S.  Pietro  in 
Volta  Portosecco,  and  Pehstrina,  a 
town  of  7000  Inhab.  The  entrance  to 
the  Porto  di  Chioggia  is  wide,  but  not 
deep,  protected  on  the  S.  by  the  Port 
of  8.  Felice^  and  on  the  N.  by  that  of 
Caraman. 

Chioggia  {Inns:  1'  Aqmla  Nera;  il 
Gl-obbo :  both  indifferent)  consists  of 
a  wide  street,  extending  the  whole 
length  of  the  island  on  which  the  town 
is  built,  with  smaller  ones  branching 
off  from  this  at  right  angles.  On  the 
seaward  side  are  canals,  streets,  and 
alleys  filled  with  boats,  masts,  nets,  and 
the  usual  implements  of  a  fishing  town. 
A  wide  arm  of  the  Lagoon  separates 
the  town  from  the  bank  or  sandy 
island  which  here  divides  the  Lagoon 
from  the  open  sea.  On  this  island  is 
the  smalltown  of  Sotto  Marina,  between 
whose  inhabitants  and  those  of  Chi- 
oggia there  exist  great  rivalry  and 
jealousy.  In  the  principal  street  of 
Chioggia  are  several  churches,  two  of 
considerable  size,  but  having  a  faded 
and  dilapidated  appearance;  and  the 
Chranajo,  or  corn-store,  resting  on 
numerous  pillars,  in  the  Gothic  style 
of  the  14th  centy.  (1322),  which  now 
serves  as  a  fish  and  vegetable  market. 
There  id  iJso  a  mixture  of  large  houses 
with  small,  and  a  few  cafes,  whose  style 
is  by  no  means  splendid.    At  the  end  of 

jy.  /to/y.— 1866, 


this  street  a  long  low  bridge'  of  numer- 
ous small  arches  connects  the  town  with 
the  adjacent  island.  The  population 
is  engaged  in  the  coasting  trade,  in 
fishing,  and  in  piloting  vessels  into  the 
harbour  of  Venice.  Chioggia  has  a  re- 
putation for  the  beauty  of  its  women, 
who  are  said  to  have  furnished  the  mo- 
dels of  the  fine  figures  of  the  Venetian 
painters.  The  people  of  Chioggia  are 
very  proud  of  their  descent :  they  are 
remarkable  for  their  attention  to  dress. 
The  MantiUa  and  Zendale  may  still  be 
seen  there,  and  the  regular  old  Itahan 
story-teller  heard  in  the  street.  Gol- 
doni's  account  of  the  inhabitants  in  his 
day  drolly  hints  their  dechne  in  pros- 
perity : — "  In  questo  paese  si  divide 
tutta  la  populazione  in  due  classi: 
ricchi,  e  poveri.  Quelli  che  portano 
una  parrucca  ed  im  mantello,  sono  i 
ricchi ;  quelli  che  non  hanno  che  un 
berretto,  ed  un  cappotto,  sono  i  poveri, 
e  bene  spesso  questi  ultimi  hanno  quat- 
tro  volte  piti  danaro  degli  altri." 

In  the  voyage  from  the  pass  of  Ma- 
lamocco to  that  of  Chioggia,  the  voy- 
ager will  have  an  opportunity  of  seeing 
the  Murazzi  or  great  sea-waUs,  the 
object  of  which  is  to  protect  the  long 
sandy  spits  that  separate  the  Lagune 
from  the  Adriatic,  preventing  the  in- 
roads of  the  latter ;  they  consist  of  a 
great  embankment  of  huge  blocks  of 
Istrian  stone,  rising  15  ft.  above  high 
water,  presenting  an  inclined  face  out- 
wardly, or  in  the  form  of  stairs  j  the 
whole  length  of  the  Murazzi,  including 
those  on  the  island  of  Sotto  Marina, 
where  they  can  be  best  seen,  is  5720 
yds.  or  3i  m, ;  they  are  a  comparatively 
modem  work,  commenced  in  1741,  and 
completed  in  1782 ;  the  slope  towards 
the  sea  is  as  1  to  4 ;  the  width  of  this 
pyramidal  structure  at  its  base,  on  the 
level  of  the  sea,  is  45  ft.  At  the  S. 
extremity  of  the  Lagune,  near  where 
the  river  Brenta  enters  it,  is  the  village 
of  Brendola  (Brentalum). 

In  returning  from  Chioggia  to  Venice, 
in  the  afternoon,  the  sunset  as  seen  over 
the  Lagoon,  with  the  Euganean  hills  and 
the  Veronese  mountains  in  the  distance 
through  the  golden  haze,  is  very  fine. 

V 


418 


Route  32. — Mantua  to  Padua, 


Sect.  IV. 


The  traveller  who  wishes  to  proceed 
^to  Bavenna  can  do  so  fi*om  Ohioggia, 
but  it  is  an  uninteresting  route,  and 
must  be  performed  under  circumstances 
of  much  discomfort,  in  a  great ,part  by 
canals.  This  route  is  fully  described 
under  Rte.  70  in  this  volume^  The 
distance  is  nearly  90  miles. 


PtOUTE  32. 

MANTUA  TO  PADUA,  BY  LEGXAGO, 
ESTE,  MONTAGNANA,  MONSELICE,  AND 
ABANO. 


AUST.  POSTS 

• 

POffTS 

Nogara   ...    If 

Este    .    .    . 

.    H 

i^egnago.    .    .    H 

Honsellce    . 

.    1 

Montagnanti    .    H 

Padua     .    . 

.    U 

8i  Austrian  posts=72j  m. 

Quitting  Mantua  by  the  Porta  di 
San  Giorgio,  the  road  continues  among 
the  marshes  ;  but  the  soil  shows  great 
fertility. 

Castellaro. 

JBon/erraro.  —  In  the  church -is  a 
painting  of  the  Immaculate  Conception, 
by  Casti,  a  second-rate  artist.  Cross  the 
Tarta/roy  upon  the  1.  bank  of  which  is 

1}  Nogara,  a  good-sized  town.  Of 
the  once  strong  and  celebrated  castle 
some  ruins  remain  :  it  has  an  in- 
terest from  its  connection  with  the 
history  of  the  Emperor  Henry  IV,, 
who  sought  refuge  in  it  during  his  con- 
tests with  his  son  Conrad.  Palazzo 
Marogna  has  a  fine  gateway;  and 
parts  of  the  walls  are  painted  by  j?r«- 
sasorzi.  The  ancient  churches  of  San 
Silvestro  and  San  Pietro  are  worth 
visiting ;  but  the  latter  has  been  mo- 
demised, 

Sanguinetto  :  here  also  are  the  re- 
mains of  a  feudal  castle.  The  road 
from  here  to  Legnago  skirts  on  the  rt. 
an  extensive  marshy  district,  called  the 


Valligrandi  Veronesi,  situated  in  the 
space  between  the  Adige  and  the  Po. 
Many  attempts  have  been  made  to  drain 
it,  but  hitherto  in  vain :  a  new  project 
has  been  lately  sanctioned  by  the  Aus- 
trian authorities,  the  government  ad- 
vancing a  large  sum  towards  its  execu- 
tion, which  will,  if  successful,  add  a 
large  tract  of  most  fertile  land  to  the 
province  of  Verona. 

Cereay  a  large  straggling  town  of 
near  6000  Inhab.,  once  an  independent 
community,  with  the  remains  of  an  an- 
cient castle.  In  the  church  of  the 
Vergine  del  Carmine  is  a  good  paint- 
ing by  Brusa^orzi. 

H  LegnagOy  situated  upon  the  Adige. 
Pop.  6000.  The  fortifications  are  re- 
markable, as  having  been  in  part 
planned  and  executed  by  Sanmicheli, 
the  architect  who  most  contributed  to 
the  invention  of  the  art  of  modem 
miUtary  fortification.  One  of  the  gates 
designed  by  him,  and  of  great  beauty, 
has  been  pulled  down,  and  partly  re- 
built in  another  situation.  Legnago  is 
now  one  of  the  strongholds  of  Austria 
in  Venetian-Lombardy,  only  second  to 
Verona,  Mantua,  and  Peschiera,  com- 
manding as  it  does  with  the  first  .tho 
line  of  the  Adige.  It  is  also  one  of  the 
great  markets  of  Jf .  Italy  fpr  agricul: 
turai  produce. 

Pevilacqua ;  the  capital  of  an  an- 
cient feudal  barony.  The  castle  was 
built  in  1354,  by  a  Count  di  Bevil- 
acqua,  who  obtained  a  grant  of  th^ 
ftdlest  rights  of  sovereignty  ;  and  who 
intended  to  render  his  "  JRocca"  worthy 
of  his  authority.  It  became  a  position 
which  was  often  contested,  and  hence, 
after  the  peace  of  Cambrai,  its  then 
owner,  Giovanni  Prancesco  Bevilacqua, 
caused  it  to  be  dismantled  and  partly 
demolished.  The  portion  of  the  edifice 
which  remained,  including  4  towers, 
was  converted  into  a  splendid  palace. 
The  great  cortUes  and  the  massive  orna- 
ments of  rustic  work  unite  picturesquely 
with  the  towers  and  drawbridges  that 
yet  subsist.     Th^  statues  and  archi- 


VENETIAN  Prov.     Route  32. — Montagnana — Este, 


41d 


tectural  ornaments  are  beautifully  exe- 
cuted ;  but  the  whole  is  exceedingly 
dilapidated,  haring  suffered  much  dur- 
ing the  revolutionary^ wars. 

li  Montagnana  (Pop.  8200),  re- 
markable as  presenting  a  line  speci- 
men of  mediaeval  fortification,  vast 
walls  and  lofty  towers,  all  of  the  finest 
brickwork.  The  circuit  towers  are  open 
towards  the  town:  those  which  flank 
the  gateways  are  lofty.  A  cross  fleuree 
and  bottonee  appears  conspicuously  over 
,  the  portals.  In  the  town  are  some 
good  old  churches.  One  in  the  great 
square  or  Piazza  is  of  the  ItaHan- 
dothic  of  the  14th  centy.,  partly  altered 
into  tlie  cinquecento  style.  The  road 
from  Mo.ntagnana  to  Este  is  heavy  and 
sandy,  in  consequence  of  which  the  post- 
master is  entitled  to  add  a  third  horse. 
The  country,  however,  continues  as  rich 
as  possible;  vines  in  festoons,  hemp 
with  stalks  as  tall  as  small  trees,  and 
gourds  of  great  diameter. 

Saletto. 

Ospetaletto.  The  fine  range  of  the 
Euganean  hills  rise  more  and  more 
as  we  advance. 

1\  Este. — (Inn:   La    Speranza,    a 
small  quiet  house,  clean   and  good.) 
Beautifully  situated  at  the  foot  of  the 
Monte  Murale  or  Monte  Cerq^  which 
forms  the  S.  extremity  of  the.Euganean 
group    of   hills.      The    ^^  Rocca"    or 
Castle  of  Este,  is  a  fine  and  almost 
unaltered  building,  erected  in  1343  by 
XJbertino  Carrara,  and  repaired  by  the 
Scaligers  during  their  temporary  pos- 
session of  it ;  a  noble  diingeon  tower, 
with  frowning  embrasures  and  battle- 
ments,  and    standing   at   least    upon 
the  site  of  the  original  fortress,   the 
seat  of  the  family  of  Este,  so  celebrated 
in  history.     Alberto  Azzo  (born  996) 
must  be  considered  as  the  more  im- 
mediate founder  of  the  house  here  on 
the  death  of  the  Emperor  Henry  III. 
The  ancestry  of  Alberto  may  be  traced 
in  history  to  Bonifazio  Duke  or  Mar- 
quis   of   Tuscany,    in    811.      Poetry 
caaries  it  much  higher.     The  magician, 
in  the  vision  of  the  enchanted  shield, 


enables  Rinaldo  lo  behold  Caius  Attius 
as  his  remote  ancestor : — 

«*  Moatragli  Caio  allor,  ch'  a  strane  genti 
Va  prima  in  preda  il  gia  inclinato  Impero, 
Prendere  il  fren  de'  popoli  volenti, 
E  farsi  d'  Este  il  Principe  primiero ; 
Ea  lui  ricoverarsi  i  men  potenti 
Vicini,  a  cui  Rettor  facea  mestiero, 
Poscia,  qiiando  ripassi  il  varco  noto, 
A  gli  inviti  d'  Houorio  il  fero  Goto." 

Orlando  Furioso. 

Alberto  Azzo,  Marquis  of  Este,  was 
twice  married.  His  first  wife  was 
Cunegunda,  a  princess  of  the  Suabian 
line,  by  whom  he  had  Guelph  Duke  of 
Bavaria  (succeeded  1071),  and  from 
whom  all  the  branches  of  the  House 
of  Brunswick  are  descended. 

Fulco  I.,  Marquis  of  Italy  and  Lord 
of  Este,  the  son  of  Alberto  Azzo,  by 
his  second  wife  Garisenda,  daughter 
of  Herbert  Count  of  Maine,  was  the 
founder  of  the  Italian  branch,  from 
which  the  dukes  of  Ferrara  and  Mo- 
dena  descended;  the  male  line  of 
which  became  extinct  at  the  end  of  the 
last  century.  The  deposed  Duke  of 
Modena,  who  is  of  the  House  of  Haps- 
burg- Lorraine,  represents  that  of  Este 
in  the  female  line,  his  grandmother, 
Maria  Beatrix,  having  been  the  last 
descendant  of  the  Italian  branch.  Este 
continued  in  the  possession  of  the 
descendants  of  Alberto  until  1294, 
when  it  fell  an  easy  conquest  to  the 
Carraras.  Successively  a  dependency 
of  Padua  and  of  the  Verona  Scaligers, 
it  passed  to  Venice  in  140.5,  retaining 
its  local  government  and  municipal 
institutions. 

The  town  of  Este  contains  more 
than  10,000  Tnhab.  It  has  a  Lombard 
aspect ;  most  of  the  houses  are  sup- 
ported by  picturesque  arches.  The 
exterior  of  the  church  of  San  Martina 
bears  the  appearance  of  high  Roman- 
esque antiquity,  but  the  interior  is 
modernised ;  the  campanile,  in  the 
same  style,  inclines  as  much  as  the 
leaning  tower  of  Pisa.  In  that  of  Sta. 
Maria  delle  Grazie  is  a  Madonna  by 
Cima  da  Concgliano.  A  fine  belfry 
tower,  with  forked  battlements,  and  a 
Dondi  clock  (see  Fadua)  of  the  largest 
size,  add  to  the  antique  adornments  of 
this  mediaeval  town.     The  bills  all  the 

T72 


420 


Eoute  32. — Monselice, 


Sect.  IV. 


way  from  beyond  Este,  sometimes 
nearer  to,  and  sometimes  more  distant 
from  the  road,  are  very  picturesque. 
The  road  follows  the  canal,  leading 
the  whole  way,  at  the  foot  of  the 
Euganean  hills,  by  Motta  and  Maren- 
dole  on  the  1.,  to 

1  Monselice  {Inn:  Grand  Hotel,  near 
the  post-house),  a  town  surmounted  by 
a  rocca^  or  castle,  of  the  13th  century, 
even  more  feudal  in  aspect  than  Este. 
Pop.  8000.  It  stands  upon  a  noble  rock. 
It  has  long  ranges  of  curtain  walls  with 
stepped  battlements,  studded  with  bold 
square  crenellated  towers.  They  as- 
cend and  descend  the  hill-sides,  in- 
termingled with  the  richest  vegeta- 
tion. Monselice  was  a  place  of  im- 
portance in  the  middle  ages:  in  the 
10th  century  it  became  a  feudal 
possession  of  the  House  of  Este,  even 
before  they  had  acquired  the  town 
whose  name  they  subsequently  adopted 
(1165).  The  hill  of  the  Rocca,  from 
which  the  town  derives  its  name — 
mountain  of  silex,  or  more  properly  of 
paving-stone — is  formed  of  a  variety  of 
trachyte  or  volcanic  porphyry,  known 
by  the  local  designation  of  masegna^ 
which  is  extensively  quarried  for 
building  purposes.  The  palace  on  the 
hill  belonging  to  the  Duodo  family, 
the  church,  and  the  7  detached  chapels 
in  imitation  of  the  7  basilicas  of  Rome, 
were  built  from  the  designs  of  Scamozzi. 
There  were  some  paintings  by  Palma 
Giovane  in  the  church.  In  the  Villa 
Cromer  is  preser^-ed  one  of  Canova's 
earliest  works,  a  statue  of  Esculapius. 
All  the  country  through  which  the 
road  passes  is  exceedingly  rich,  but 
intersected  by  muddy  canals.  Mon- 
selice will  be  the  best  point  to 
diverge  from  the  main  road  to  visit 
Arqua.  The  postmaster  considers 
himself  entitled  to  charge  one  post 
and  a  half,  tiiere  and  back,  for  this  ex- 
cursion, although  the  distance  is  less 
than  5  m. ;  but  if  the  traveller  professes 
indifference,  he  will  be  contented  with 
1  post,  going  and  returning  included. 

Excursion  to  Arqua.  This  place  is 
beautifully  situated  amongst  the  Euga- 
nean hills;  here  Petrarch  retired  and 
died.  The  house  shown  was  very 
probably    his   habitation,    for  as   far 


back  as  1650  the  tradition  was  firmly 
believed :  the  paintings  on  the  walls, 
of  which  the  subjects  are  taken  from 
his  poems,  date  from  the  preceding 
centy. ;  and  there  is  nothing  in  the 
architecture  (Petrarch  died  in  1374) 
inconsistent  with  the  story.  It  is 
inhabited  by  a  farmer,  and  is  somewhat 
dilapidated.  Here  is  Petrarch's  chair, 
Petrarch's  pretended  cat,  or  ** miccia*' 
as  he  used  to  call  her  (and  as  all  cats 
are  still  called  in  Italy),  is  here, 
stuffed,  and  in  a  small  niche.  The 
tomb  of  the  Laureate,  of  the  same  form 
as  that  called  Antenor's  at  Padua  (see  p. 
339)t  like  it  stands  on  4  stumpy  pillars 
in  the  chyard.  It  is  of  red  Verona 
marble,  and  was  raised  by  Francesco  di 
Brossano,  the  husband  of  Francesca, 
one  of  the  illegitimate  children  of  the 
poet.  The  inscription  is  by  Petrarch 
himself.  Above  is  a  bronze  bust,  placed 
there  in  1677.  The  Fozzo  di  Petrarca, 
a  walled  cistern,  is  said  to  have  been 
built  at  his  expense  for  the  use  of  the 
town.  In  the  village  church  are  two 
paintings  attributed  to  Palma  Giovane 
and  Paul  Veronese.  Near  Arqua  is  a 
spring,  called  (from  the  late  viceroy) 
the  Fonte  del  Vicere  Bainieri :  its 
waters  are  strongly  sulphureous.  Very 
good  figs  and  white  wine  (for  this 
country  at  least)  are  grown  near  Arqua, 
and  may  be  had  at  the  little  osteria  in 
the  town. 

Instead-  of  returning  to  Monselice 
the  traveller  going  to  Padua  may,  by  a 
cross  road,  join  the  post-road  at  Rivello 
1  m.  before  reaching 

Battaglia,  with  good  hotels — the 
Alhergo  di  BattagUa^  close  to  the  high 
road,  upon  the  canal  of  Monselice ;  La 
Mezza  Luna:  it  has  some  thermal 
springs,  which  are  now  in  great  vogue 
and  much  frequented  in  July  and  Aug. 
Opposite  to  Battaglia,  and  on  the  top 
of  a  hill,  stands  the  picturesque  castle 
of  Monticelliy  and  farther  on,  after 
leaving  the  town,  and  nearer  the  road, 
the  castle  of  Catajo,  which  was  be- 
queathed by  its  former  proprietor,  the 
Marquis  Obizzi,  to  the  Duke  of  Mo- 
dena.  The  old  part  of  the  castle  may 
always  be  seen  ;  it  contains  some  fres- 
coes, said  to  be  by  Paul  Veronese.  The 
designs  are  possibly  by  him,  but  the 


Venbtiak  Prov. 


EoiUe  32. — Abano, 


421 


frescoes  must  have  been  executed  by 
his  scholars;  they  are  very  careless 
and  slight.  The  museum,  which  is 
extensive,  contains  a  vast  collection 
of  old  armour  and  warlike  weapons, 
ill-arranged ;  early  inscriptions  of  the 
ch. ;  and  some  other  curious  antiques 
and  relics. 

About  2  m.  on  the  rt.  of  the  road 
after  leaving  Battaglia  is  Carrara  di  S. 
Ste/ano  (the  nearest  way  of  reaching 
it  will  be  from  Carrara  di  S.  Giorgio), 
once  celebrated  for  its  Benedictine 
Monastery  founded  in  1027.  Several 
of  the  Carraras  were  buried  in  the  ch. 
Marsilio,  who  died  in  1330,  has  a 
monument  in  white  marble,  with  reliefs 
of  the  Virgin,  SS.  Antony  and  Benedict. 
On  a  pilaster  upon  the  S.  wall  of 
this  edifice  is  an  inscription  in  Lom- 
bard characters  relative  to  the  death 
of  Ubertino  Carrara  in  1365,  in  which 
the  family  is  designated  by  the  name 
of  Papa/aha f  lords  of  Carrara  and 
Padua.  The  bell-tower  bears  the  date 
of  1293.  The  monastery  was  suppressed 
in  1777,  and  sold  by  the  Venetian 
government  to  the  Erizzo  family. 

Ahano  may  be  visited  either  from 
Padua  or  from  Battaglia,  being  at  an 
equal  distance,  about  6  Eug.  m.,  from 
both.  There  are  two  very  fair  inns 
here,  especially  during  the  summer 
season,  the  Albergo  dell'  Orologio  and 
le  Due  Torri.  Its  baths  have  retained 
their  celebrity  from  the  time  of  the 
Romans ;  medals  and  other  remains  of 
antiquity  are  found  here  in  abund- 
ance :  the  place  is  also  remarkable  as 
the  birthplace  of  Livy,  of  Valerius 
Flaccus,  and  of  Pietro  d' Abano,  in 
whom  the  Paduans  take  almost  equal 
pride.  "  This  village  is  about  3  m. 
from  the  Euganean  Hills ;  and  the 
houses  occupied  by  those  who  resort  to 
this  place  for  the  benefit  of  its  muds 
and  waters  are  yet  nearer,  all  situated 
in  an  extensive^  plain :  from  this  rises 
a  sort  of  natural  tumvluSt  of  a  circular 
form,  of  about  15  ft.  high,  and  above 
100  in  circumference.  It  appears  to 
be  of  the  same  sort  of  composition  as 
the  neighbouring  hills,  consisting  of 
materials  indicative  of  a  volcanic  origin. 
From  this  mount  burst  two  or  three 
copious  streams  of  hot  water,  varying 


from  77°  to  185°  Fahr.:  they  contain 
a  minute  portion  of  muriates  of  soda, 
lime,  and  magnesia,  and  of  sulphate  of 
lime ;  the  gaseous  emanations  with 
which  they  are  accompanied  consisting 
of  azote  and  carbonic  acid.  A  part  of 
them  serves  to  fill  the  baths  and  pits 
for  heating  the  muds;  a  part  loses 
itself  in  cuts  and  wet  ditches,  amidst 
the  meadows;  and  a  part  turns  the 
wheel  of  a  mill,  which  whirls  amidst 
volumes  of  smoke. 

The  meadows,  which  are  of  surpris- 
ing fertility,  extend  about  2  m.  with- 
out interruption,  when  they  are  broken 
by  an  insulated  hill,  entirely  covered 
with  trees,  brushwood,  and  vines ; 
from  the  foot  of  this  issue  smoking 
streams,  and  a  little  farther  is  another 
single  hill,  from  whose  roots  issue  hot 
mineral  waters.  The  structure  of  the 
hills,  and  their  character  and  position 
show  evidently  that  they  are  outliers 
of  the  volcanic  group  of  the  Euganeans. 

There  are  other  springs  of  the  same 
nature,  and  having  all  of  them  more 
or  less  medicinal  virtues ;  which  pro- 
cured apparently  for  this  place  the 
ancient  name  of  AponoUt  derived  from 
a  privative,  and  troros,  pain. 

"  It  is  celebrated  for  its  muds,  which 
are  taken  out  of  its  hot  basins,  and 
applied  either  generally  or  partially,  as 
the  case  of  the  patient  may  demand. 
These  are  thrown  by  after  having  been 
used,  and,  at  the  conclusion  of  the 
season,  returned  to  the  hot  fountain, 
where  they  are  left  till  the  ensuing 
spring,  that  they  may  impregnate  them- 
selves anew  with  the  mineral  virtues 
which  these  are  supposed  to  contain. 
The  most  obvious  of  these,  to  an  igno- 
rant man,  are  salt  and  sulphur.  The 
muds  are,  on  b^inc  taken  out,  intensely 
hot,  and  must  be  kneaded  and  stirred 
some  time  before  they  can  be  borne. 
When  applied,  an  operation  which  very 
much  resembles  the  taking  a  cast,  they 
retain  their  heat  without  much  sensible 
diminution  for  three  quarters  of  an 
hour,  having  the  effect  of  a  slight  ruhe- 
fadent  on  the  affected  part,  and  pro- 
ducing a  profuse  perspiration  from  the 
whole  body ;  a  disposition  which  con- 
tinues more  particularly  in  the  part  to 
which  they  have  been  applied,  when  un- 


422 


Boute  33, — Padua  to  the  Po, 


Sect.  IV. 


checked  by  cold.  Hence  heat  is  con- 
sidered as  so  essentially  seconding  their 
operations,  that  this  watering-place,  or 
rather  mudding-place,  is  usually  nearly 
deserted  by  the  end  of  August ;  though 
there  are  some  who  continue  to  wallow 
on  through  the  whole  of  September. 

**  The  baths,  though  sometimes  con- 
sidered as  a  remedy  in  themselves,  are 
most  generally  held  to  be  mere  auxi- 
liaries to  the  muds,  and  usually  but 
serve  as  a  prologue  and  interlude  to 
the  dirty  performance  which  forms  the 
subject  of  the  preceding  paragraph,  they 
being  supposed  to  open  the  pores  and 
dispose  the  skin  to  greater  suscepti- 
bility."— Jlose^s  Italy. 

Since  Mr.  Kose  visited  the  place  it 
has  been  much  improved.  A  range 
of  handsome  bath-buildings  has  been 
erected,  with  all  needful  accommoda- 
tions for  visitors ;  a  good  restaurateur's 
and  cafe.  There  are  16  baths  well 
fitted  up,  besides  those  for  the  poor. 
The  bathing  season  commences  in  July. 
The  thermal  springs  in  this  district 
are  very  numerous.  Besides  those  at 
Abano,  there  are  others  at  Ceneda^ 
Monte  Gotardo,  Sant'  Elena^  San  Pie- 
tro  MontagnonCt  Monte  GroitOy  San 
JBartolomeOt  Monte  OrUme,  San  Damele 
in  Monte. 

The  road  from  Battaglia,  which  we 
now  rejoin,  continues  along  the  bank 
of  the  canal,  the  hills  retiring  on  the 
left,  and  after  6  m.  we  reach  Pac^wa. 
(Rte.  31.) 


ROUTE  as. 

PADUA  TO  THE  PO,    BY  &OYIGO. 


AU8T.  POSTS. 

Monselice  .  .  li 
Hovigo  .  .  .  li 
Polcsella      .    .    1 


POSTS. 

S.  Maria  Madda- 

lena.     .    .    .    \\ 
Ferrara  (by  rail)  5  kils. 


5  J  Aust.  posts=50  m. 

2  Diligences  leave  Padua  every 
morning  at  8j  (fare  4  fl.  90  soldi), 
reaching  Santa  Maria  Maddalena  on 
the  Po  in  6  hrs.  (that  of  the  Capello 
Company  very  comfortable),  and  a 
malleposte  at  11  p.m.  ;  then  crossing 
the  Po  to  Ponte  di  Lago  Scuro,  from 
which  3  rly.  trains  start  for  Bologna, 
passing  by  Ferrara,  performing  the 
journey  in  1}  hr.  Good  carriages  can 
be  procured  at  the  Stella  d'Oro,  for 
Ponte  della  Maddalena,  performing  the 
journey  in  7  hrs.,  at  the  following  rates : 
with  2  horses, 40francs;  with  3,  70.  The 
post  charges  are,  for  each  post, — car- 
riages, generally  bad,  furnished  by  the 
postmaster,  2  lire ;  2  horses,  7  lire ;  pos- 
tilion, 2  lire,  with  a  small  buonamano. 

Railway  nearly  completed  as  far  as 
Rovigo,  to  be  continued  to  the  N.  bank 
of  the  Po. 

On  leaving  Padua  the  road  follows 
the  side  of  the  canal,  over  a  most  fertile 
plain. 

6  miles  beyond  the  city  is  Battaglia, 
a  town  of  2700  Inhab.,  at  the  foot  of 
the  Euganean  hills,  surrounded  by 
villas :  it  is  celebrated  for  its  baths.  A 
m.  before  reaching  Battaglia,  on  the  rt., 
is  the  villa  of  Catajo,  belonging  to  the 
Duke  of  Modena.     (See  Rte.  32.) 

14  post,  Monselice  (p.  420),  a  town 
of  8000  souls  at  the  foot  of  a  hill,  one 
of  the  most  eastern  spurs  of  the  Eu- 
ganeans,  and  on  which  once  stood  a 
castle  celebrated  in  mediaval  Italian 
history;  the  town  derives  its  name 
from  the  lava  (Selce)  quarried  here  for 
the  roads  and  building  purposes. 

On  leaving  Monselice  a  long  avenue 
of  poplars,  bordering  a  fine  line  of  road 
of  more  than  10m.,  extends  in  a  straight 
line  to  Rovigo,  2  m.  before  reaching 
which  it  crosses  the  Gorzone  canal,  and 
soon  after  the  Adige  (by  a  bridge)  at 
Boaru,  from  which  .there  is  a  good  view 


Venetian  Prov.      Route  Z^,— Padua  to  the  Po. 


423 


over  the  plain  of  Rovigo.,  the  river 
being  here  at  a  higher  level  than  that 
town:  pass  a  strong  circular  fort 
recently  erected  by  the  Austrians,  and 
astride  on  the  highway,  soon  after 
crossing  the  Adige.  The  country  is 
flat  and  marshy,  but  with  the  most 
luxuriant  vegetation. 

I ^  Rovigo  {Inns:  la  Corona  Ferrea, 
near  the  post-house  and  diligence  office, 
in  the  N.  suburb).  A  small  city,  active 
and  cheerful.  Pop.  about  10,000.  The 
cathedral  is  now  the  seat  of  the  Bishop 
of  Adria.  That  ancient  city  lives  in 
the  name  of  the  Adriatic:  its  site, 
at  a  short  distance  from  Kovigo,  can 
scarcely  be  traced,  and  the  excavations 
have  not  been  productive  of  any  objects 
of  great  interest.  The  Duoino  of  llovigo 
is  a  plain  building,  with  a  few  second- 
rate  pictures.  In  the  Piazza  Maggiore 
stand  a  column  which  once  bore 
the  Lion  of  Stl  Mark-  and  a  marble 
pedestal  for  the  Gonfalone  of  the  Re- 
public. The  chapel  of  the  Madonna, 
a  circular  edifice,  at  the  extremity  of 
the  city,  contains  a  host  of  votive 
offerings  and  paintings,  the  latter  prin- 
cipally by  the  inferior  artists  of  the 
Venetian  school.  In  the  W.  part  of  the 
town  are  2  mediasval  square  towers, 
both  out  of  the  perpendicular,  like 
those  at  Bologna. 

The  road  continues  through  the  flat 
country  intersected  by  canals  ;  part  of 
it  runs  upon  an  embankment,  and  the 
soil  continues  to  display  the  same  ex- 
uberant fertility.  A  mile  beyond  R.  is 
another  fort  similar  to  that  passed  near 
the  Adige,  with  tiers  of  casemated  bat- 
teries, and  a  platform,  for  the  purpose 
of  defending  the  road,  and  overawing 
the  town.  8  m.  beyond  Rovigo  we 
cross  the  Bianco  canal,  from  which 
skirting  on  the  rt.  a  branch  of  another, 
we  soon  afterwards  reach 

1  Polesella,  near  where  the  latter 
canal  enters  the  Po. 

"To  check  the  aberrations  of  the 
rivers  in  this  part  of  the  country  from 
their  channels,  a  catastrophe  which 
used  formerly  frequently  to  occur,  a 
general  system  of  embankment  has 
been  adopted  :  and  the  Po,  Adige,  and 
almost  all  their  tributaries,  are  now 
confined  between  high  artificial  banks. 


The  increased  velocity  acquired  by  the 
streams  thus  closed  in  enables  them  to 
convey  a  much  larger  portion  of  foreign 
matter  to  the  sea ;  and,  consequently, 
the  deltas  of  the  Po  and  Adige  have 
gained  far  more  rapidly  on  the  Adriatic 
since  the  practice  of  embankment  be- 
came almost  universal.     But,  although 
more  sediment  is  borne  to  the  sea,  part 
of  the  sand  and  mud,  which   in  the 
natural  state  of  things  would  be  spread 
out  by  annual   inundations  over  the 
plain,  now  subsides  in  the  bottom  of 
the  river  channels ;  and  their  capacity 
being  thereby  diminished,  it  is  neces- 
sary, in  order  to  prevent  inundations 
in    the    following  spring,   to    extract 
matter  from  the  bed,  and  to  add  it  to 
the  banks  of  the  river.    Hence  it  hap- 
pens that  these  streams  now  traverse 
the  plain  on  the  top  of  high  mounds, 
like  the  waters  of  aqueducts,  and  at 
Ferrara  the  surface  of  the  Po  has  be- 
come more  elevated  than  the  roofs  of 
the  houses.    The  magnitude  of  these 
barriers  is  a  subject  of  increasing  ex- 
pense   and    anxiety,   it    haviujr  been 
sometimes  found  necessary  to  give  an 
additional  height  of  nearly  one  foot  to 
the  banks  of  the  Adige  and  Po  in  a 
single  season." — Lyell,     **  The  practice 
of  embankment  was  adopted  on  some 
of  the  Italian  rivers  as  early  as  the 
loth  centy.      The  deltas  of  the  rivers 
falling  into    the    upper  part  of   the 
Adriatic  have  gone  on  rapidly  increas- 
ing within  the  period  of  history.  From 
the  northernmost  point  of  the  Gulf  of 
Trieste,  where  the  Isonzo  enters,  down 
to  the  S.  of  Ravenna,  there  is  an  unin- 
terrupted series  of  recent  accessions 
of  land,  more  than  100  m.  in  length, 
which  within  the  last  2000  years  have 
increased  from  2  to  20  m.  in  breadth. 

The  Isonzo,  Tagliamento,  Piave, 
Brenta,  Adige,  and  Po,  besides  many 
other  smaller  rivers,  contribute  to  the 
advance  of  the  coast- line,  and  to  the 
shallowing  of  the  gulf.  The  Po  and 
the  Adige  and  the  Brenta  may  almost 
be  considered  as  entering  the  Adriatic 
by  one  common  delta. 

"  In  consequence  of  the  great  con- 
centration of  the  flooded  waters  of 
these  streams  since  the  system  of  em- 
bankment became  general,  the  rate  of 


424 


Eoute  34. —  Venice  to  Ttieste. 


Sect.  IV. 


encroachment  of  the  new  land  upon 
the  Adriatic,  especially  at  that  point 
where  the  Po  and  the  Adige  enter,  is 
said  to  have  been  greatly  accelerated. 
Adria  was  a  seaport  in  the  time  of 
Augustus,  and  hsid  in  ancient  times 
given  its  name  to  the  gulf;  it  is  now 
upwards  of  12  miles  inland,  from 
the  nearest  point  of  the  coast-line. 
Ravenna  was  also  a  seaport,  and  is 
now  about  4  m.  from  the  shore.  Yet 
even  before  the  practice  of  embank- 
ment was  introduced,  the  alluvium  of 
the  Po  advanced  with  rapidity  on  the 
Adriatic ;  for  Spina,  a  very  ancient 
city,  originally  built  in  the  district  of 
Ravenna,  at  the  mouth  of  a  great  arm 
of  the  Po,  was,  so  early  as  the  com- 
mencement of  our  era,  11m.  distant 
from  the  sea." — Prin,  of  GeoL,  i.  435. 
The  length  of  the  course  of  the  Po  is 
410  m.,  and  the  superficial  extent  of 
the  basin  drained  by  it  is  22,656  geo. 
sq.  miles.  (The  basin  drained  by  the 
Thames  is  6400  geo.  sq.  miles,  that  by 
the  Severn  4000.) 

From  Polesella  the  post-road  fol- 
lows the  1.  bank  of  the  Po  to  the 
Austrian  frontier  station  at 

1.  Sta  Maria  Maddalena 

The  Dogana  here  will  give  little 
trouble.  In  coming  from  ^e  Italian 
provinces  passports  are  only  de- 
manded in  extreme  cases  by  the  Aus- 
trian authorities. 

Cross  to  Ponte  di  Logo  Scuro^  the 
frontier  station  of  the  kingdom  of 
Italy,  by  a  ferry-boat,  a  tedious  opera- 
tion :  the  rlwy.  stat.  is  a  few  hundred 
yards  from  the  landing-place  (see 
Rte.  58). 

Febbara. — Irms :  The  Enropa  is  op- 
posite to  the  Postoffice.  The  Stella 
d'Oro  in  the  Piazza,  clean. 


ROUTE  34. 

VENICE  TO  TRIESTE,  BY  TREVISO, 

PORDENONE,     CASARSA,     AND     UDINE. 

BY   RAIL. 


217  kil.  =  135  Eng.  m. 


KIL. 

Mestre  .     . 

.       8 

M(^iano     . 

.     18 

Preganziol  . 

.     22 

Treviso  .     . 

.     29 

Lancenlgo  . 

.     35 

Spresiano    , 

.     43 

Piave     .     . 

.     48 

Conegliano  . 

.     56 

Pianzano 

.      .     64 

Sacile     .     , 

.     73 

Pordenonc 

.      .     86 

Casarsa  . 

.      .  101 

C!odroipo 

.      .   112 

KIL. 


Passian  Scbinr 
vonesca 

■ 

123 

Udine    .     . 

• 

134 

Butrio    .     . 

• 

143 

S.  Giovanni 
Manzano 

} 

150 

Oonnong 

156 

Gorizia  .     . 

167 

Sagrado .     . 

180 

Konchi  .     . 

185 

Monfalcone. 

190 

Nabresina  . 

209 

Trieste  .     . 

217 

Steamers  three  times  a  week,  at  mid- 
night ;  some  performing  the  voyage  in 
6  hrs. 

Railway  trains  leave  Venice  for 
Trieste  twice  a  day,  by  way  of  Treviso, 
employing  9  hrs.  The  line  of  rail- 
road separates  from  that  to  Padua 
(Rte.  31)  at  Mestre,  and  from  thence 
runs  nearly  N.  through  a  very  rich 
country  by 

8  kil.  Mestre  Stat, 

10  kil.  Mogliano  Stat, 

4  kil.  Preganziol  Stat. 

7  kil.  Treviso  Stat.  :  the  ancient 
Tarvisium  {Fnns :  Quattro  Corone,  the 
best ;  Albergo  Reale),  a  city  of  18,600 
Inhab.,  on  the  Sile,  a  tributary  of 
the  Piave.  Treviso  was  formerly- 
capital  of  the  Trevisan  Mark,  as  it 
still  is  of  the  province  of  the  same 
name,  and  a  Bishop's  see ;  it  is 
situated  in  a  very  rertile  territory, 
and  possesses  manu&ictures  of  cloth, 
paper,  &c.  The  Duomo,  or  cathedral, 
dedicated  to  St.  Peter,  though  un- 
finished, is  a  fine  building,  with  its 
five  cupolas.  It  contains  a  chapel 
covered  with  good  frescoes,  by  Porde^ 
none.  There  is  an  altarpiece  of  the 
Annunciation,  by  Titian,  and  a  curious 
picture  representing  a  procession  of  the 
Trevisan  authorities,  by  Domenici,  a 
native  artist.  The  Gothic  church  of 
San  Nicolo  contains  paintings  by  Oian 


Venetian  Prov.         Route  34. — Feltre — Belluno, 


425 


Bellini  and  Paris  Bordone,  and  a  some- 
"w^hat  celebrated  one  by  Marco  Fensa- 
bene,  erroneously  attributed,  to  Sebastian 
del  Fiombo,  In  the  Monte  di  Piettl 
there  is  a  celebrated  picture  by  GioT' 
gione,  the  Entombment  of  Christ,  said 
to  have  been  his  last  work,  and  even  to 
have  been  finished  by  Titian.  The 
Palazzo  Publico  and  Theatre  are  fine 
buildings ;  the  Villa  Manfrini  has  ex- 
tensive gardens. 

Teeviso  to  Feltbb  ant>  Belluno. 

[Treviso  will  be  the  nearest  point 
on  the  rly.  to  Feltre  from  which 
Belluno  can  be  most  conveniently 
reached :  there  is  a  daily  public  con- 
veyance, and  carriages  may  be  hired : 
the  distance  is  about  25  m. ;  the  road 
crossing  the  plain  of  the  Trevisan 
mark  as  far  as  the  town  of  Monte 
Belluna,  on  the  right  of  which,  and 
extending  to  the  Fiave,  is  the  forest 
called  the  Bosco  Montello,  which 
furnished  timber  for  the  Venetian 
navy  during  the  time  of  the  republic. 

5  m.  beyond  Monte  Belluna,  the 
road  reaches  the  Piave,  passing  by 
Cornuda,  the  country  of  the  last  Doge 
of  Venice,  Manin,  in  whose  villa  at 
Mese  (see  p.  338)  are  some  frescoes 
attributed  to  P.  Veroneie,  Onigo, 
Ferres,  &c.  From  here  the  val- 
ley of  the  Piave  becomes  narrow  and 
picturesque  until  reaching  Sanzan, 
where,  turning  suddenly  to  the  1.,  it 
ascends  the  ravine  of  the  Lorma 
torrent,  after  5  m.  to  debouch  into 
the  plain  of  Feltre. 

Feltre  {Inns:  II  Vapore;  Aquila 
d'Oro,  fair),  a  town  of  4000  Inhab., 
near  the  confluence  of  the  Stizzone 
and  Cormeda  torrents,  in  a  rich  agri- 
cultural district,  at  the  foot  of  the 
last  slopes  of  the  Rhsctian  Alps.  Re- 
mains of  its  middle-age  fortifications 
may  still  be  seen  in  the  upper  town. 
On  the  highest  point  rose  the  Focca, 
or  Castle^  of  which  a  tall  square  tower 
remains,  commanding  a  fine  view  over 
the  upper  valley  of  the  Piave  and 
Alps  or  Cadore.  In  the  Piazza  is 
the  Town  Hall^  facade  attributed  to 
Palladio,  and  the  pillar  on  which  once 
stood  the  Lion  of  St.  Mark.     In  a 


street  adjoining  is  the  Monte  di  Pieta, 
Those  very  useful  establishments  for 
lending  on  pledges,  so  general  all  over 
France  and  Italy,  were  first  established 
at  Feltre  by  a  certain  Frate  Bernar- 
dino, a  native  of  the  town.  Feltre 
gave  a  ducal  title  to  Gen.  Clarke,  one 
of  Napoleon's  officers ;  indeed,  some  of 
Buonaparte's  most  celebrated  marshals 
and  mmisters  bore  ducal  titles  derived 
from  places  in  this  part  of  Italy.  There 
is  a  road  .from  Feltre  to  Primolano 
(12  m.).  Diligences  to  Bassano,  by  Pri- 
molano, in  the  valley  of  Brenta,  and 
to  Roveredo,  to  Belluno,  and  Treviso. 

The  distance  from  Feltre  to  Belluno 
is  17^  Eng.  m.,  the  road  running 
through  the  wide  valley  of  the  Piave, 
the  hills  on  the  N.  of  which  are  very 
picturesque.  At  Bribano,  5  m.  from 
Belluno,  it  crosses  the  Cordevole. 

Belluno  {Inns:  Leone  d'Oro;  Due 
Torri,  good),  capital  of  the  province  of 
the  same  name,  situated  at  the  junction 
of  the  Ardo  with  the  Piave,  on  a  pro- 
montory, round  the  foot  of  which  the 
latter  river  flows,  whose  gravelly  bed 
is  sometimes  J  m.  broad  and  nearly 
bare  in  summer,  with  just  water  enough 
to  float  down  timber-rafts,  with  cargoes 
of  turpentine,  pitch,  &c.,  from  the 
mountains.  It  contains  a  population  of 
10,000  souls.  In  the  Cathedral^  built 
by  Palladio,  are  pictures  by  Bassano  and 
Falma  Giovane  (neither  first-rate),  and 
a  bust  of  Gregory  XVI.,  a  native  of 
the  place.  The  Falazzo  della  Fagione 
is  a  fair  specimen  of  Venetian  archi- 
tecture of  the  16th  centy.  In  front  of 
the  Gothic  Church  of  St.  Stephen  is  a 
Roman  sarcophagus  of  the  4th  centy., 
belonging  to  a  C.  Hostilius  Sertorianus, 
with*reliefs  of  achace ;  it  was  found  in 
the  vicinity.  The  town  is  supplied 
with  water  by.  an  aqueduct  6  m.  long. 

The  country  is  here  composed  of 
tertiary  greensand  and  sandstone  deeply 
indented  by  the  torrents  and  rivers.  E. 
of  the  city  the  Ardo  flows  through  a 
deep  ravine  into  the  Piave,  so  that 
Belluno  is  flanked  on  2  sides  by  a  pre- 
cipitous hill.  The  greensand  in  itself 
forms  a  beautifully  varied  and  pic- 
turesque country,  even  independently 
of  the  loftier  mountains  which  are  seen 
beyond ;  in  short,  the  neighbourhood  of 

173 


42(3 


Routi  34. — Motta — Conegliano, 


Sect.  IV 


Belluno,  especially  N.  of  the  town,  is 
very  beautiful.  An  excursion  may  be 
made  N.  towards  Bolzano  (a  small 
mountain  hamlet),  to  see  Colontola,  a 
spot  said  to  have  been  sketched  by 
Titian,  and  introduced  into  one  of  his 
pictures.  It  lies  below  the  road  in  the 
hollow  of  the  Ardo,  and  is  nothing  but 
a  mill  and  a  few  houses ;  but  the  com- 
bination of  scenery  is  extremely  fine. 
This  excursion  may  be  made  in  a  char, 
but  not  very  conveniently. 

A  good  road  has  been  made  from 
Belluno  to  Agordo  and  its  Copper 
Mines,  18  m.  (see  Handbook  of  South 
Germany  and  Tyrolf  Rte.  222  a), 
striking  across  the  hills  in  a  direct  line 
to  Mas ;  about  Mas  the  tertiary  sand 
is  covered  by  the  fall  of  the  neigh- 
bouring calcareous  mountains.  At  the 
village  Agordo,  2  m.  beyond  the  Mines, 
is  a  tolerable  Twi. 

Near  Mas,  about  8  m.  from  Belluno, 
is  the  large  suppressed  Cistercian  mo- 
nastery of  Vedano,  now  the  property 
of  the  Marquis  Airaldi.  The  road  to 
it  passes  through  huge  fragments  of  the 
fallen  mountain. 

3  m.  from  Belluno,  at  Capo  de  Ponte, 
the  Piave  is  crossed  by  a  fine  wooden 
bridge  of  1  arch ;  here  the  road  joins 
the  highway  from  the  Ampezzo  Pass^  by 
which  the  traveller  can  descend  into 
the  plains  of  Italy  by  the  Lago  di 
Santa  Croce,  Ceneda,  Conegliano,  Tre- 
viso,  &c. 

The  high  road  from  Verona  to  Vienna, 
by  the  Ampezzo  and  Pontebba  routes, 
joins  that  from  Venice  at  Treviso ; 
having  crossed  the  great  plain  of  the 
Trevigiano  from  Vicenza,  through 
Cittadella  on  the  Brenta,  and  Castel- 
franco,  the  country  of  Giorgione. 

Teeviso  to  Trieste. 

Three  roads  lead  from  Treviso  to- 
wards Trieste,  all  joining  again  near 
Codroipo  and  Palma  Nova.  The  first 
through 

OderzOy  a  large  village,  the  ancient 
Opitergium. 

Motta,  a  town  of  5000  Inhab.,  on 
the  Livenza,  which  is  from  this  point 
navigable.  Scarpa,  the  celebrated  ana- 
tomical professor  of  Pavia,  was  a  native 
of  this  place :  his  collections  of  ancient 


armour    and  pictures   are    preserved, 
here. 

San  Vito,  2  m.  from  the  Tagliamento, 
a  nourishing  town  of  5000  Inhab.,  -with 
liuen  and  silk  manufactories :  there 
are  some  good  pictures  by  Pompeo 
Atnalteo  and  his  master  Licinio  in  the 
choir  of  the  hospital  church. 

The  second,  being  a  continuation  ot 
the  former  from  Motta,  is  more  direct 
still ;  it  passes  through  Forioguaro,  Lct- 
tisana  on  the  Tagliamento,  S,  Giorgio, 
and  Ontagnano,  2  m.  from  Palma  Nova, 
where  it  falls  into  the  post-road  from 
Udine. 

The  third  or  upper  road  from  Tre- 
viso, nearly  parallel  to  the  Rly.,  runs 
along  the  foot  of  the  last  declivities  of 
the  sub-alpine  hills,  and  is  more  pic- 
turesque and  interesting.] 

Leaving  Treviso,  the  rlwy.  runs 
nearly  due  N.  through  the  plain  to 
the  Piave,  passing  by 

6  kil.  Lanccniijo  Stat, 

8  kil.  Spresiano  Stat.,  3  m.  beyond 
which  we  cross  the  Piave,  on  a  bridge 
of  several  arches. 

5  kil.  Piave  Stat.,  on  the  river-side ; 
from  here  the  line^foUows  the  foot  of 
the  hills  to 

8  kil.  Conegliano  Stat.  {Inn ;  La  Posta, 
good).  Pop.  6500.  The  town  is  sur- 
mounted by  an  extensive  castle,  that 
gives  a  fine  appearance  to  it  as  it  is 
approached.  There  are  frescoes  by 
Pordenone,  now  nearly  obliterated,  on 
the  outside  of  several  private  houses  in 
the  town ;  in  the  Duomo  an  altar-piece 
of  Cima  da  Conegliano,  a  native  of  the 
place.  On  leaving  the  town  we  pass 
under  a  triumphal  arch,  erected  in 
honour  of  the  late  Emperor  Francis  I. 
of  Austria.  3  m.  farther  the  great  road 
by  Belluno,  the  valley  of  Cadore,  and 
the  Ampezzo  pass  to  Inspruck,  branches 
off  to  the  1.  (See  Handbook  of  S. 
Germany,  Rte.  228.)  Leaving  Conegli- 
ano, the  Ely.  follows  the  line  of  the  old 
post-road  to 

Pianzano  Stat.,  to  the  I.  of  which 
opens  the  valley  of  Serravalle,  through 
which  passes  the  road  to  Belluno  and 
Ampezzo,  and  6  m.  farther  on  reaches 
Saoile  Stat.  ( Inn :  La  Posta ),  a 
town  of  3700  Inhab.,  on  the  Livenza.  It 
'  retaius  some  traces  of  its  former  im- 


Venetian  Pbov.     Boute  34. — Campo  ForrAio — Udine. 


427 


portance,  being  surroanded  by  a  good 
"wall  and  ditch  ;  the  palace  of  the  Po- 
desta  is  a  considerable  building. 

8  Kil.  Pordenone  Stat,  (Inn :  La  Posta, 
fair)  contains  4000  Inhab.,  and  is  sup- 
posed to  occupy  the  site  of  the  Portus 
l^aonis  of  the  Romans.  It  contains 
large  paper- works  on  the  Noncello  tor- 
rent. Giovanni  Antonio  Licinio  Regillo^ 
called  II  Pordenone,  was  born  here  in 
1483 ;  there  is  a  picture  of  St.  Christo- 
pher by  him  in  the  principal  church. 
Between  Pordenone  and  Casarsa  the 
Rly.  crosses several'torrents  descending 
from  the  Alps. 

15  kil.  Casarsa  Stat,  is  about  4  m. 
from  the  Tagliamento, 

11  kil.  Codroipo  Stat,  (Inn:  II  Impera- 
tore).  [Here  the  two  carriage-roads, 
now  seldom  followed,  from  Treviso 
join.  3  m.  before  reaching  this  place 
the  Tagliamento  is  crossed  upon  a 
wooden  bridge,  1130  yards,  or  nearly 
two- thirds  of  a  m.  long,  the  bed  of  the 
river  being  here  upwards  of  a  m.  wide, 
and  a  real  "  Sea  of  Stones,**  showing 
the  changeable  nature  of  the  river's 
course.  From  near  the  Ponte  della 
Delizia,  on  the  1.  bank  of  the  Taglia- 
mento, a  road  branches  off  to  the  1., 
and,  following  it,  leads  to  -S'.  Daniele, 
OsoppOf  a  fortified  town,  and  VenzonCf 
and  by  the  Val  del  Ferro  to  Pontebba, 
and  thence  to  Tarvis  and  Villach,  and 
by  the  Valley  of  the  Drave  to  Vienna. 
(See  Handbook  of  South  Germany ,  Rte. 
250.)  From  Codroipo  the  post-road 
makes  a  considerable  detour  to  Udine, 
but  a  more  direct  one  passes  across  the 
plain  to  Palma  Nova,  a  very  strongly- 
fortified  town,  3  m.  W.  of  the  river 
Torre.  The  road  from  Codroipo  to 
Udine  passes  through  Basagliapenta  and 

Campo  FormlOf  or  more  properly 
Carapo  Formido,  where  the  treaty  be- 
tween General  Bonaparte  and  the  Em- 
peror of  Austria  was  signed  in  October 
1707,  by  which  Venice  was  so  shame- 
fully sacrificed  by  the  French  general 
to  Austria — one  of  the  deepest  blots  in 
the  political  history  of  Napoleon.  The 
mean  house  in  which  this  disastrous 
treaty  was  concluded  is  still  pointed 
out ;  the  leaden  inkstand,  from  which 
it  was  signed,  is  preserved,  as  a  melan- 
choly record  of  the  Republic's  fall,  in 


the  Museo  Correr  at  Venice.]    Return- 
ing to  the  rly. — 

13  kil.  Passtan  Schiavonesco  Stat, 
11  kil.  Udine  Stat,  (/nw;  L*Europa, 
good ;  La  Stella),  a  city  of  20,000  Inhab , 
once  a  place  of  much  importance  as  the 
capital  of  Friuli.  It  is  still  surrounded 
by  its  ancient  walls.  In  the  midst  is  the 
old  town,  also  walled,  and  surrounded 
by  a  ditch.  In  the  centre  is  the  castle, 
on  a  height,  said  to  have  been  founded 
by  Attila.  Udine  presents  so  many 
features  of  resemblance  in  its  build- 
ings to  the  mother  city,  to  whose  rule 
it  was  so  long  subjected,  as  to  merit 
the  name  of  Venice  in  miniature  :  it  has 
its  grand  square,  its  palazzo  publico — 
a  fine  building  on  arches  in  imitation 
of  the  Doge*s  palace — the  two  columns, 
the  winged  l^on  of  St.  Mark,  and  the 
campanile  with  two  figures  to  strike  the 
hours.  The  cathedral,  dedicated  to 
the  Virgin,  in  the  Corinthian  style, 
is  the  most  interesting  object  in 
the  town.  The  campanile  dates  from 
the  12th  century.  In  the  bishop's  pa- 
lace is  a  ceiling  painted  by  Giovanni  da 
Udine,  whose  house  still  exists,  and  is 
remarkable  for  being  adorned  within 
and  without  with  stucco  ornaments, 
probably  by  himself.  The  castle  on  the 
height  is  now  used  as  a  prison ;  the 
view  from  here  over  the  plains  of  Friuli 
is  very  fine.  The  Campo  Santo  is  well 
deserving  of  a  visit. 

[10  m.  E.  of  Udine  is  Cividale,  the 
ancient  Forum  Julii,  interesting  from 
its  numerous  Roman  antiquities:  its 
Duomo,  or  collegiate  church,  founded 
in  750,  is  a  remarkable  mediaeval  edi- 
fice. The  archives  contain  some  va- 
luable ancient  MSS.  (See  Handbook 
of  South  Germany y  Rte.  250)]. 

On  leaving  Udine  the  rly.  suddenly 
changes  its  direction  parallel  to  the 
course  of  the  Torre  torrent,  which  it 
crosses  before  reaching 

9  kil.  Butrio  Stat,  and  4  m,  farther 

7  kil.  S.  Giovanni  Manzano  Stat.  The 
Judrio  torrent  is  crossed  2  m.  before 
reaching 

6  kil.  Connons  Stat,,  from  here  the 
line  running  at  the  base  of  the  hills, 
gradually  approaching  the  Isonzo,  the 
hypothetical  boundary  of  Italy,  which 
it  crosses  I  m.  before  reaching  the 


428 


Boute  34. — Aquileja, 


Sect.  IV. 


11  kil.  Gorizia  Stat  (see  Handbook  of 
Southern  Germany^  Rte.  250),  following 
the  course  of  the  Isonzo  to 

7  kil.  Sagrado  Stat,,  2  m.  from  Gra- 
disca,  where  the  line  turns  abruptly  to 
theS. 

5  kil.  Ronchi  Stat, 

5  kil.  Monfalcone  Stat,  From  here  the 
rlwy.  runs  near  the  Adriatic  through 
S.  Giovanni  on  the  Timavo,  the  ancient 
Timavus,  ^  m.  from  the  coast,  the 
most  northern  poi^t  of  the  Adriatic, 
to  Duino  and  Nabresina,  the  second  sta- 
tion out  of  Trieste,  from  which  it  is 
12  kil.  distant.  On  leaving  Nabresina, 
the  rlwy.  runs  more  inland  than  the 
post-road. 

[An  excursion  may  be  made  to 
Aquileja  from  Monfalcone,  10 J  m. 
distant.  From  Monfalc{)ne  the  best 
road  is  by  Pieris,  beyond  which  it 
crosses  the  Sdobba,  to  S.  Valentino, 
which  is  about  3  m.  from  Aquileja. 
Aquileja  was  in  ancient  times  one  of 
the  most  important  provincial  cities  of 
Rome,  and  one  of  its  strongest  frontier 
fortresses,  the  chief  bulwark  of  Italy 
towards  the  N.E.  Augustus  often 
resided  in  it,  and  its  population  was 


then  estimated  at  100,000  souls.  It  was 
taken  by  Attila  in  452,  and  reduced 
to  ashes  by  that  ferocious  barbarian, 
who  caused  it  to  be  levelled  to  the 
ground.  It  contains  at  present  about 
1500  Inhab.  Its  climate  is  pestilential 
at  certain  seasons  from  the  marshes  in 
the  midst  of  which  it  is  situated.  The 
Duomo,  built  between  1019-42,  is  a 
splendid  architectural  monument  of 
the  middle  ages,  historically  remark- 
able as  the  metropolitan  church  of  the 
Patriarch  of  Aquileja,  whose  stone 
throne,  in  which  he  was  installed,  is 
still  preserved  behind  the  altar.  The 
crypt  is  very  curious.  Among  the 
remains  of  antiquity  are  fragments  of 
the  palace  of  the  Patriarch  Poppo,  who 
built  the  cathedral  or  campanile  and  a 
detached  tower.  The  Roman  remains 
in  the  neighbourhood  are  very  abund- 
ant ;  excavations  are  going  on,  and  a 
local  museum  contains  much  of  what 
has  been  discovered.] 

1 2  kil.  Trieste  (ffandbook  S.  Germany, 
Rte.  252).  Inns  all  dear:  Hotel  de 
Ville,  on  the  Quay,  in  a  good  sitaa- 
tion ;  Victoria  Hotel ;  H6tel  de  France; 
Locanda  Grande  ;  H6tel  Daniele. 


(    429     ) 


SECTION    V. 

DUCHIES  OF  PARMA  AND  PIACEKZA. 

1.  Chvernment. — 2.  Natwire  of  the  Country,  Inhabitants,   Froduce,   Trade, — 

3.  Money, 

EOTTTES. 


EOTTTB  PAGE 

40.  Piacenza  to  JParma,  by  Bor^ 

go  San  Donino. — Rail      .     430 

41.  Cpwnona  to  Parma,  by  Casal 

Ma>ggiore  and  Colorno     .     454 
(TlTEIN  to  PlAOENZA,  by  AUS' 

sandria.     See  Rte.  7.) 


EOTTTE  PAGE 

42.  Parma  to  Mantua,  by  Ghias- 

talla 455 

43.  Parma  to  Sarzana,  by  For- 

nuovo  and  Fontremoli      .     456 
(Milan  to  Piacenza, 
Rte.  24.) 


PRELIMINARY  INFORMATION. 

§  1.   GOVEEITMENT.  - 

These  two  dismemberments  of  ancient  Lombardy,  ceded  to  Leo  X.  by 
Franceseo  Sforza  in  1515,  were  bestowed  by  Pope  Paul  III,  on  his  bastard 
son  Pier  Luigi  Famese,  in  1545 ;  they  remained  in  the  possession  of  his 
descendants  until  the  extinction  of  the  male  line  of  that  celebrated  family  in 
1731,  when  they  dcTolved  to  the  Spanish  branch  of  the  House  of  Bourbon, 
in  virtue  of  the  inheritance  of  Elizabeth  Famese,  the  daughter  of  the  last  duke, 
Ranuccio  III.,  who  had  married  PhiUp  V.,  and  who  left  heii-s.  This  transfer  was 
confirmed  by  the  treaty  of  Aix-la-ChapeUe.  At  the  breaking  out  of  the  war  which 
followed  the  French  Revolution  these  duchies  were  governed  by  Ferdinand  the 
grandson  of  Elizabeth,  and  were  invaded  by  Bonaparte  in  1796.  After  that 
period  they  may  be  considered  as  dependencies  of  France ;  they  formed  the 
Departments  of  the  Trebbia  and  Taro  of  the  Kingdom  of  Italy.  On  the  fall  of 
Napoleon,  Parma  and  Piacenza,  to  which  Q-uastalla  had  been  annexed,  were  made 
over  at  the  congress  of  Vienna  to  the  Empress  Maria  Louisa  for  her  hfe,  to 
revert  on  her  death  to  the  descendants  of  the  last  duke  of  the  House  of  Bourbon, 
to  whom  in  the  mean  time  the  duchy  of  Lucca  had  been  given  in  compensation. 
On  the  demise  of  Maria  Louisa,  In  December,  1847,  Charles  II.  of  Bourbon 
became  Duke  of  Parma  and  Piacenza ;  but  abdicated  in  1849  in  favour  of  his 
son,  Ferdinand  III.,  who  was  assassinated  in  1854,  leaving  several  children. 
The  eldest,  Robert,  being  under  age,  the  government  of  the  duchies  was 
assumed  by  his  mother,  as  Regent,  during  his  minority.  In  the  event  of  failure 
of  male  issue  in  the  reigning  femily,  the  duchy  of  Parma  Proper  was  to  have 
passed  to  Austria,  and  that  of  Piacenza  to  the  King  of  Sardinia ;  when  the 
events  of  1859  upset  the  stipulations  made  at  the  Congress  of  Vienna,  the 
provinces  of  Piacenza  and  Parma  annexing  themselves  by  an  almost  unanimous 
vote  to  the  kingdom  of  Northern  Italy,  imder  the  rule  of  Victor  Emanuel. 

The  sovereignty  of  Parma  from  1815  to  1859  embraced  the  duchy,  of  that 
name,  the  duchy  of  Piacenza,  and  the  district  of  Pontremoli,  ceded  by  GDuscany 
on  the  sovereign  of.  the  latter  coming  into  possession  of  the  duchy  of  Lucca. 
G^uastalla  had  been  transferred  to  the  Duke  of  Modena  on  the  death  of  Maria 
Louisa, 


430  Monte  40,-^Piacenza  to  Parma.  Sect.  V. 

§  2.   NaTUEE  op  the  OOITNTIIY. — iNHABITAlfTS. — ^PbODITCE. — TbADE. 

The  territory  comprised  in  the  two  duchies  of  Parma  and  Piacenza,  now 
forming  the  proyinces  of  the  same  name  of  the  kingdom  of  Italy,  has 
a  popijdation  of  474,600  souls.  It  extends  from  the  Pb  on  the  N.  to 
near  the  Mediterranean  on  the  S.  The  portion  of  its  territory  in  the  plain 
between  the  Apennines  and  the  Po  is  fertile,  and  watered  by  numerous 
rivers  descending  from  these  mountains.  GDhe  districts  in  the  Apennines 
are  arid,  rocky,  and  thinly  peopled,  and  so  inadequate  to  maintain  their 
scanty  population,  that  many  of  the  inhabitants  annually  leave  their 
homes  to  seek  employment  during  the  agricultural  season  in  Lombardy  and 
Tuscany,  returning  with  the  money  thus  earned  to  maintain  themselves  and 
their  families ;  others,  for  a  much  longer  period,  as  itinerant  musicians,  &c. 
Most  of  those  Italians  with  organs,  &c.,  whom  we  see  about  our  streets,  come 
from  the  districts  of  Parma  and  Modena  bordering  on  the  Apennines.  When- 
ever we  find  tliis  migration  in  search  of  employment  abroad,  the  people  may 
be  considered  as  not  in  a  favourable  condition  in  their  own  country.  This 
applies  equally  to  the  Irish  and  the  Westphalian  peasantry ;  the  one  leaves  his 
coimtry  for  England,  the  other  for  the  Netherlands,  during  harvest-time. 

The  trade  of  Parma  is  limited  to  the  importation,  through  Trieste  and  G-enoa, 
of  colonial  produce  for  its  consumption,  British  and  other  foreign  manu&ctures, 
and  articles  of  luxury. 

The  exports  consist  chiefly  of  cattle,  hemp,  and  cheese,  some  silk,  and  a 
good  deal  of  wine  to  the  neighbouring  proviuces  of  Lombardy  and  Piedmont. 

§  3.  Money. 

The  coin  struck  by  Maria  Louisa  is  very  beautiful,  and  is  similar  to  the  French 
and  Italian.  The  old  lira  of  Parma  is  still  sometimes  met  with ;  97  of  these 
are  equivalent  to  20  francs ;  but  in  ordinary  dealings  5  lire  of  Parma  are  equal 
to  a  franc,  a  lira  being  thus  20  centimes. 


ROUTES. 


KOUTE  40.  '■  ^^^  hotels  here  the  better.    By  ar- 

riving early  he  will  have  ample  time  to 
PIACENZA  TO  PAEMA,  BY  BOEGo  SAN      visit  evcrytliing  of  interest  in  the  town, 
DONiNO.^ — EAIL.  and  continue  by  an  evening  train  to 

KiL.  KiL.  I  where  he  will  find  more  comfortable 

Borgo  S.  Donlno  .    35  j  quarters,  at  Q-enoa,  Turin,  or  Milan,  or 

p^^^'t^^'' ;    ;    67  I  f*  Parma.     There  are  two  good  cafes 

in    and  near  the  Piazza  dei  Cavalli, 
where  he  can  procure  refreshment. 


Ponte  Nura  ,  .  12 
Fiorenzuola  .  .  21 
Alseno       ...     28 


called  the  best,  but  dirty,  and  with 
uncivU  and  inattentive  people  (1860)  ; 
the  Croce  d'Oro,  said  to  be  better; 
and  the  Albergo  d' Italia,  fair.  As  all 
the  hotels  are  indifierent,  and  as 
everything    can  be  seen    in  a    short 


57  kiL  =  35  J  m. 

PiACENZA.   Inns :    the  San  Marco,       The  following  itinerary  will  embrace 

everything  worthy  of  notice  at  Piacenza, 
in  the  order  they  can  be  most  easily 
visited — supposing  the  traveller  to 
start  from  the  reulway  station,  where 
hackney  coaches  may  be  hired  at  the 
rate  of  2  fr.  an  hour : — The  DuomOf  Ch, 


time,  the  less  the  traveller  has  to  do  i  of  San  Francesco,  Fiazza  dei  CQvalli^ 


Paema. 


MoUte  40. — Piacenza. 


431 


and  Palazzo  del  Commune;  Ch.  of 
Sari£  Antonino  and  Theatre;  Ch.  of 
Sanf  Agostino;  tlie  public  Promenade ; 
the  Fortress;  Santa  Maria  di  Cani- 
jpagna :  returning  to  the  E-ly.  Stat,  by 
the  Ch.  of  S.  Sisto,  the  Citadella^  the 
Porta  di  Fagosta  leading  to  the  Po,  the 
Bridge  of  Boats  over  the  latter,  &c. 

Railways  and  Diligences.  —  There 
is  a  rlwy.  communication  between 
Turin  and  Piacenza,  corresponding  with 
Q-enoa,  Milan,  the  Lago  Maggioi'e,  &c., 
and  with  Bologna,  by  P^rma  and  Mo- 
dena,  trains  four  times  a-day ;  to  Milan 
4  trains  daily  in  1^  to  If  hrs.  A  dili- 
gence daily  to  Cremona  in  3  hrs.  early 
in  the  morning,  so  as  to  enable  persons 
to  reach  Brescia  by  another  on  the 
same  evening. 

Tiacenza  la  JFedele,  founded  by 
the  Boian  Gauls,  received  from  the 
Romans  the  name  of  JPla^entia,  on 
accoimt  of  its  pleasing  situation.  It 
was  one  of  the  places  which  revived 
the  soonest  after  the  invasions  of  the 
northern  barbarians,  and  obtained  an 
early  share  of  the  commerce  which  in 
the  middle  ages  enriched  the  Italian 
towns.  In  the  10th  century  the  fair 
of  Placentia  was  one  of  the  principal 
marts  of  the  peninsula.  This  city  now 
contains  about  32,000  Inhab.,  a  number 
which  is  not  by  any  means  in  proportion 
to  the  gi*ound  it  occupies. 

The  most  busy  ptu^  of  Piacenza  is 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Piazza  de' 
Cavalli,80  called  from  the  bronze  statues 
of  the  two  dukes,  Alessandro  and  Ma- 
nuccio  Famese,  which  stand  in  front  of 
the  Palazzo  del  Commune.  "Tliis  build- 
ing was  erected  by  the  merchants  of 
Piacenza,  and  was  begun  in  1281.  The 
lower  part  is  of  red  and  wliite  hme- 
stone,  and  in  the  pointed  style ;  the 
upper  half  is  in  the  round  style,  and 
of  brick,  with  terra-cottd  mouldings 
and  ornaments.  This  building  is  one 
of  the  many  instances  which  prove 
that  the  Saracenic  style,  finding  its 
way  through  Venice,  had  in  the  middle 
ages  a  partial  influence  upon  the 
architecture  of  Italy.  The  windows 
and   the   forked  battlements    of   this 


building  are  in  a  Saracenic  manner, 
and  the  Saracenic  passion  for  variety 
appears  in  the  dissimilarity  of  its  parts, 
for  the  windows  of  the  front  are  varied, 
and  the  two  ends  of  the  building  are 
purposely  made  unlike  each  other.  It 
is  a  noble  building,  in  spite  of  its  ano- 
malies and  mixture  of  different  styles 
and  materials." — G.  Knight. 

The  equestrian  statues  were  designed 
by  Francesco  Mocchi,  a  scholar  of  Grio- 
vanni  di  Bologna,  and  cast  by  Marcello, 
a  Roman  artist.  They  were  decreed  by 
the  city  on  the  occasion  of  the  pubHc 
entrance  of  Margherita  Aldobrandini, 
the  wife  of  Ranuccio,  and  were  exe- 
cuted at  its  expense,  at  a  cost  of  44,107 
Roman  scudi.  The  statue  of  Ranuccio 
was  erected  in  1620,  that  of  Alessandro 
in  1624.  Ranuccio  is  in  an  attitude 
of  command ;  Alessandro  is  reiaing  in 
liis  steed.  The  rider  has  pulled  up 
the  horse;  but  the  speed  with  which 
they  have  been  proceeding  is  seen  by 
the  flutter  of  his  drapery  and  the 
housings  and  mane  aU  carried  out  by 
the  wind.  Both  the  statues  seem 
wanting  in  that  repose  and  simplicity 
which  constitute  the  truly  beautiful  in 
art.  These  colossal  statues,  instead 
of  being  formed  of  several  pieces,  have 
been  cast  at  one  jet. 

The  traveller  here  first  becomes  ac- 
quainted with  the  countenances  of  the 
Famese  family,  whose  elevation  so 
deeply  tarnishes  the  Papal  tiara.  Ales- 
sandro, who  succeeded  to  his  father 
Ottavio  in  1586,  is  the  "Prince  of 
Parma"  whose  name  was  so  familiar 
in  England  in  the  reign  of  Elizabeth, 
as  spoken  of  in  the  feimous  old  ballad 
on  the  Armada  : — 

Their  men  were  young,  munition  strong, 

And,  to  do  us  more  harm  a, 
They  thought  it  meet  to  join  their  fleet 

All  with  the  Prince  of  Parma,    ' 

All  with  the  Prince  of  Parma. 

He  was  bold  and  enterprismg. 
Grovemor  of  the  Low  Countries,  he 
served  Spain  wisely  and  prudently ; 
and,  as  a  general,  was  less  sanguinary 
than  the  other  captains  of  his  times. 
He  died  in  1592  at  An-as,  in  conse- 
quence of  the  womids  which  he  had 


432 


Moute  40. — Piacenza — The  Duomo, 


Sect.  V, 


received  at  the  siege  of  Eouen,  his 
services  having  been  transferred  to 
Prance  for  the  purpose  of  assisting  the 
party  of  the  League.  The  very  low  re- 
liefs upon  the  pedestal  represent  the  at- 
tempt to  bum  the  flying  bridge  thrown 
over  the  Scheldt  by  Famese  during 
the  siege  of  Antwerp  (1585),  and  the 
interview  with  the  envoys  of  Queen 
Elizabeth,  near  Ypres,  to  negotiate  the 
peace  (1591).  Alessandro  was  suc- 
ceeded by  his  son  Banuccio.  GHoomy, 
suspicions,  covetous,  and  merciless, 
one  of  the  first  acts  of  his  reign  was  to 
bum  9  women  accused  of  witchcraft. 
Banuccio  was  constantly  in  dread 
of  the  vengeance  of  the.  nobihty, 
whom  he  insulted  and  oppressed.  A 
supposed  conspiracy  enabled  him,  in 
1612,  to  wreak  his  vengeance  upon 
them.  On  the  19th  May  the  scaffold 
was  raised  before  the  windows  of 
his  palace;  and  Barbara  San  Vitale, 
Countess  of  Colomo,  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  woman  of  her  day,  was  brought 
forth,  shown  to  the  people,  and  be- 
headed ;  she  was  followed  by  Pio  ToreUi 
— ^his  head  fell  also ;  San  Vitale,  Marquis 
of  Sala,  succeeded,  and  four  others 
of  the  principal  families.  The  exe- 
cution lasted  four  hours,  the  duke 
looking  on  with  savage  delight.  He 
wished  to  extirpate  these  families  ;  and 
we  dare  not  repeat  the  treatment  in- 
flicted upon  the  children  of  San  Vitale. 
The  son  and  nephew  of  Torelli  escaped ; 
and  the  latter,  taking  refuge  in  PoLand, 
and  having  married  the  heiress  of 
the  Poniatowski  family,  became  the 
ancestor  of  the  last  King  of  that 
unhappy  country. 

The  Duomo  stands  at  the  end  of  the 
long  "Contrada  dritta,"  which  runs 
in  a  straight  line  from  the  Piazza. 
Though  npi  of  very  remote  date,  having 
been  consecrated  by  Pope  Innocent  II. 
in  1133,  it  is,  excepting  some  additions 
in  the  16th  century,  in  the  ancient 
Lombard  style.  The  porches  are  cu- 
rious ;  the  central  one  dates  from 
1564.  In  the  archivolt  are  sculp- 
tm*ed  various  figures,  emblematical  of 
the  heavenly  bodies  and  elements; 
amongst  them  are  the  twelve  signs  of 


the  zodiac;   the  sun  and  the  moon; 
stars,  planets,  and  comets,  and  winds. 
The  two  lateral  ones,  of   an  earlier 
period,  are  ornamented  with  rude  bas- 
reliefs  of  the  Annunciation,  the  Visita- 
tion, the  Nativity,  and  Adoration  of 
the  Magi.     The  pillars  that  support 
these  arches  rest  upon  quaint  crouching 
human  figures,  with  a  kind  of  saddle 
on  which  the  columns  rest,  &c. ;  and  the 
whole  exterior  is  full  of  curious  details. 
A  window  in  the  apse  is  remarkable, 
the  moulding  of  the  archivolt  standing 
out  from  the  wall,  with  which  it  is 
connected   by  four    grotesque    heads. 
The    Campanile^  about  200  ft.   high, 
was  erected  in  1333,  and  consists  of  a 
square  brick  tower,  with  an  open  belfry 
on  the  summit :  to  a  window  in  it  is 
affixed  an  iron  cage,  like  that  at  Man- 
tua, placed  there  in  1495  by  Ludovico 
il    Moro,   to   expose  to    public  view 
persons  guilty  of  sacrilege  and  trea- 
son.   The  interior  of  the  ch.  (360  ft. 
in  length,  210  wide  between  the  tran- 
septs, and  125  high  in  the  centre  of 
the  nave)   is    in    a    Lombard    style, 
with  wide-spreading  arches  rising  from 
massive  columns,  with  bold  plain  capi- 
tals :  over  the  crown  of  each  arch  a 
statue  is  let  into  the  wall,  and  on  most 
of  the  pillars  are  small  tablets,  repre- 
senting workmen  of  various  descrip- 
tions— a  wheelwright,  a  carpenter,   a 
smith,  and  many  others,  denoting  the 
Crafts  who  contributed  to  the  expense 
of  erecting  the  building.    The  choir 
retains  its  stalls  of  rich  carving  by  Oian 
Oiacomo,  a  Genoese  (1471)  ;  massive, 
bossed  choir-books  J    and  its  twenty- 
four    canons,   who,    with    diminished 
means,  still  retain  their  station  in  the 
cathedral.      At  the  intersection  of  the 
nave  and  transepts  rises  the  octagonal 
cupola,  surrounded  both  without  and 
within  by  a  gallery  of  Lombard  arches. 
The  paintings  on  it  are  of  a  supe- 
rior order.    Six  of  the  eight  sides  are 
painted  in  fiasco  by    Ghterdno;   two, 
namely,   the  E.   and   N.E.   compart- 
ments— supposing  the  church  to  stand 
exactly  E.  and  W. — are  by  Morazzone, 
A  nearer  view  of  them  may  be  obtained 
from  the  coloimade  which  runs  round 


Pabma. 


Route  40. — Piacenza — Duomo. 


433 


the  top  of  the  drum,  but  the  ledge  is 
rather  narrow,  and  has  no  rail.  The 
subjects  are  —  four  Prophets,  four 
Sibyls,  choirs  of  Angels,  and  Biblical 
subjects.  These  frescoes  have  been 
injured  in  a  peculiar  manner, — ^birds 
getting  into  the  dome  have  flown 
against  and  scratched  them.  "The 
Ouercino  frescoes  are  very  remark- 
able for  their  great  power  in  co- 
lour and  skill  in  execution  of  fresco 
on  a  large  scale,  and  have  less  of  the 
heaviness  usually  pervading  the  works 
of  this  master.  At  the  great  distance 
from  which  they  must  be  seen  from 
the  floor  of  the  cathedral,  they  are 
quite  satisfactory,  and  fine  specimens 
of  interior  decoration."  —  C.  W,  C. 
Lower  down,  on  each  side  of  the  win- 
dows, are  figures  of  Oharity,  Truth, 
Chastity,  and  Humility,  by  Franchink 
In  the  choir  are  frescoes  by  Agostino 
and  Ltidomco  Caracciy  fuH  of  academic 
power  and  skill,  showing  great  know- 
ledge of  the  human  form  and  much 
grandeur  of  contom*;  the  colours  are 
distemperlike,  but  in  as  perfect  jpre- 
servation  as  if  hut  just  done.  The 
Ascension  of  the  Virgin,  in  the  centre 
of  the  choir,  as  well  as  the  Sibyls  on 
either  side,  are  by  C.  Frocaedni;  the 
two  large  subjects  of  the  Burial  of  the 
Virgin,  and  the  Apostles  discovering 
her  tomb  empty,  on  the  side  walls,  are 
by  Landi;  they  replace  the  two  pic- 
tures of  the  same  subjects,  now  in  the 
Pinacoteca  at  Parma,  painted  in  1609 
by  Lud.  Caracci,  and  which  had  been 
carried  off  by  the  [French  to  Paris  in 
1796.  The  Virgin  surrounded  by 
angels,  on  the  vault  of  the  apse,  is 
a  magnificent  work  of  I/ud,  Caracci, 
in  preservation  and  execution  of  its 
kind  quite  complete,  and  fuU  of  skill. 
The  vault  over  the  high  altar  is  divided 
into  four  compartments:  in  one,  the 
Virgin  crowned  by  the  Trinity  is  by 
C:  Procaccini  ;  the  3  others,  represent- 
ing choirs  of  angels,  and  the  souls  of 
the  Fathers  of  the  Church  in  Hades, 
are  by  Zud.  Caracci — the  figure  of 
Moses  in  the  latter  is  particularly 
worthy  of  notice ;  the  Nativity  of  the 
Virgin  and  the  Salutation,  on  the  arch 


of  the  organ  gallery,  are  by  the  same 
painter;  the  Visitation,  and  the  De- 
scent of  the  Holy  Spirit,  on  the  op- 
posite side  of  the  choir,  are  by  C.  FrO' 
caccini.  The  other  paintings  most 
worthy  of  notice  in  this  cathedral  are, 
St.  Martin  dividing  his  Gtirment  with 
the  Beggar,  by  Lud.  Caracci,  in  the 
chapel  on  1.  of  the  choir ;  in  the  2nd 
chapel  on  the  rt.  is  a  strange 
painting,  attributed  to  Andrea  and 
JElisabetta  Sirani,  representing  the 
10,000  crucified  Martyrs,  who,  ac- 
cording to  the  legend,  consisted  of 
an  army  of  9000  Roman  soldiers 
miraculously  converted  to  Christi- 
anity, and  1000  inore  troops  sent 
against  them,  who  followed  their 
example, — an  execution  said  to  have' 
occurred  by  the  advice  of  Sapor,  in  the 
reign  of  Hadrian.  Near  the  altar  of 
Santa  Lucia  is  a  curious  painting  of 
the  13th  centy.,  representing  the  Ma- 
donna and  ,  Child,  by  Bartolino  da 
JPiacenza,  some  of  whose  works  we 
shall  see  in  the  Baptistery  at  Parma. 
The  Diptychus,  over  the  great  door  of 
the  church,  in  low  rehef,  formerly  occu- 
pied the  place  of  Procaccini's  Ascension 
of  the  Virgin,  in  the  choir ;  it  was  exe- 
cuted in  1479  by  two  artists,  B.  Gro- 
polio  for  the  painting,  and  Antonio 
Bv/rlenghi  for  the  sculpture,  at  the  ex- 
pense of  a  member  of  the  Landi  family ; 
the  Virgiu  that  occupied  the  central 
compartment  has  been  destroyed.  A 
silver  basin,  weighing  400  ounces,  for- 
merly existed  in  the  Sacristy,  with  a 
good  bas-reUef  of  the  Assumption ;  the 
vase  was  sold,  but  the  bas-rehef  re- 
mains— it  is  a  good  work  of  the  begin- 
ning of  the  last  centy. 

The  subterranean  church  or  8cm*olo 
is  a  complete  church* of  itself,  with 
transepts  and  choir,  supported  by 
numerous  colimms  with  varied  capi- 
tals. 

The  Ch.  of  San  Francesco  il  Grande, 
near  the  Piazza  de*  Cavalli,  was  built 
by  the  Franciscan  Friars  in  1278. 
The  exterior  is  partly  Lombard,  the 
interior  in  the  Pomted  style.  The  paint- 
ing of  the  Conception  of  the  Virgin  in 
the  2nd  chapel  on  the  rt.,  and  the  cupola 


434 


Route  40 . — Piacenza —  Churches. 


Sect.  V« 


over  the    altar,  are   by  Malosso,    of 
Cremona,  executed  in  1607. 

Ch.  of  SanV  Antonino,  the  original 
Cathedral  of  Piacenza,  founded  A.  D. 
324,  it  is  said  upon  the  spot  where 
St.  Barnabas  preached  to  the  people, 
rebuilt  in  903,  and  again  1104,  and 
much  altered  at  various  subsequent 
periods  (lastly  in  1562),  so  that 
only  portions  of  its  mediaeval  archi- 
tecture now  remain,  the  Bell-tower  and 
the  curious  porch  on  the  N.  side  called 
*' Ji?  Paradiso"  the  proportions  of  which 
are  very  good  (1350).  There  are  in  the 
ch.  2  paintings  relative  to  the  hfe  of 
the  patron  saint  by  Fiaminffo,  the 
Dream  of  St.  Joseph  by  Frocaccini,  and 
a  Last  Supper  by  Castelli  of  Q-enoa. 
The  sanctuary  and  choir  are  painted  by 
Camillo  Gavassetti  of  Modena,  who 
died  in  1628,  at  a  very  early  age,  and 
few  of  whose  works  are  found  except 
in  his  native  city.  They  are  princi- 
pally subjects  from  the  Apocalypse, 
and  were  admired  by  Q^uercino.  The 
drawing  is  exaggerated.  Q-avassetti 
is  one  of  the  numerous  artists  who, 
having  painted  but  little  in  oil,  are 
scarcely  known.  An  ancient  paint- 
ing upon  wood  of  the  14th  centy.  in 
the  Sacristy  should  also  be  noticed ;  it 
represents  incidents  from  the  life  of 
the  patron  saint.  There  are  two 
mediaeval  sarcophagi  outside  the  ch. 

Behind  S.  Antonino  is  the  small  ch. 
of  San  Vincenzoy  with  two  large  paint- 
ings of  David  and  Isaiah  by  Camillo 
broad  Bocaccino  (1530),  in  a  grand  and 
broad  style. 

Ch,  of  San  Savino,  founded  in  903, 
and  rebuilt  in  the  15th  centy.  The 
crypt  is  probably  as  old  as  the  10th 
centy. :  the  pavement  is  tessellated,  re- 
presenting the  Signs  of  the  Zodiac. 
In  the  church  are  good  specimens  of 
Nuvolone, 

Ch.  of  San  Giovanni  in  Canale, 
founded  by  the  Knights  Templars.  In 
the  cloisters  are  some  curious  frag- 
ments of  paintings  of  very  early  date. 
The  building,  which  is  spacious,  con- 
tains a  St.  Hyacinth  by  MalossOy  and 
some  paintings  of  modem  artists. 
There  is  a  fine  tomb  of  Orazio  Scotti, 


Count  of  Montalbo,  by  Algardi^  in  the 
chapel  of  St.  Catherine. 

Ch.  of  Sanf  AgostinOy  closed  and 
falling  into  ruin.  This  church,  by 
Vignola^  has  a  grand  and  imposing 
fa9ade.  The  nave  is  supported  by  34 
Doric  columns,  each  shaft  being  of  a 
single  block  of  granite. 

Ch.  of  the  San  Sepolcro,  by  Sra- 
mantey  and  a  beautiful  specimen  of 
architecture  (1531).  It  was  converted 
by  the  Austrians  into  a  military 
hospital. 

Ch.  of  Sta.  Maria  delta  Campagnay 
near  the  gate  leading  to  La  Stradella 
and  Alexandria,  at  the  W.  extremity 
of  the  town,  was  also  erected  from  the 
designs  of  Bramante,  originally  in  the 
form  of  a  G-reek  cross  :  it  was  sadly 
spoiled  towards  the  end  of  the  last 
centy.  by  lengthening  the  choir.  This 
alteration  occasioned  the  destruction  of 
several  frescoes  by  Campi.  The  frescoes 
of  this .  church,  though  little  known, 
are  excellent,  and  will  probably  be  the 
first  in  a  good  style  that  the  traveller 
from  beyond  the  Alps  wiU  have  seen  in 
Italy,  and,  being  placed  in  juxtaposition 
with. oil  paintings  of  the  same  masters, 
will  show  how  much  superior  they  are 
for  effect,  colouring,  and  mural  decora- 
tion to  the  latter.  "  In  this  church  is  a 
cupola  and  chapel  painted  in  fresco^/ 
Pordenoney  showing  to  what  extent  co- 
lour may  be  carried  in  fresco.  The 
orange  and  blue,  azure  and  gold,  purple 
and  red,  are  as  rich  as  in  the  Venetian 
pictures,  and  similar  in  treatment :  the 
design  not  more  severe,  and  with  the 
same  fierce  dash  in  execution.  On 
the  1.  of  the  western  door  on  entering 
there  is  a  fresco  of  St.  Augustine  (done 
as  a  specimen  previously  to  his  being 
engaged  to  put  his  hand  to  the  larger 
works),  more  complete  and  careful  in 
finish,  and  very  beautiful  in  colour; 
the  rosy  tints  and  luscious  fulness  in 
the  flesh  are  as  fine  as  can  be." —  C.  IF".  C 
Some  of  these  frescoes  have  suffered 
from  the  effects  of  damp  and  time,  but 
they  are  generally  very  fine.  On  en- 
tering the  ch.,  upon  the  wall  on  the  1. 
is  the  fresco  above  alluded  to  of  St. 
Augustine,  beyond  which  is  the  chapel 


Parma. 


Eoute  40 . — Piacenza — Ch urches. 


435 


of  the  Magi,  entirely  painted  by  Par- 
denone.  Tlie  subject  over  the  altar 
represents  the  Adoration  of  the  Magi, 
in  the  lunette  above  the  Nativity,  on 
the  side  wall  the  Birth  of  the  Virgin, 
and  above  it  the  FUght  into  Egypt. 
The  paintings  of  St.  Sebastian  and  St. 
Koch  at  the  next  altar,  as  well  as  four 
subjects  from  the  life  of  St.  Francis, 
are  by  Camillo  JProcacdni.  Beyond 
this  is  the  Chapel  of  St.  Catherine, 
entirely  painted  by  Fordenone :  the 
altarpiece  in  oils  represents  the  Mar- 
riage of  St.  Catherine  of  Alexandria 
with  the  Infant  Clirist ;  the  figure  of 
St.  Paul  on  one  side  is  the  portrait  of 
the  artist  himself,  and  that  of  the 
Virgin  the  likeness  of  his  wife.  The 
French  were  unable  to  remove  this 
picture ;  when  they  attempted  to 
roll  up  the  canvas,  the  painting, 
which  was  executed  upon  a  prepared 
ground  of  plaster  or  gesso  spread  to 
the  thickness  of  about  Jth  of  an  inch 
on  the  canvas,  broke  and  fell  off.  On 
the  side  wall  is  the  magnificent  fresco  of 
St.  Catherine  disputing  with  the  Doc- 
tors, into  which  the  painter  has  also 
introduced  his  portrait  in  the  Doctor 
lying  on  the  ground  with  an  open  book 
befoi*e  lum.  These  fine  works  were 
executed  in  1546  for  a  Countess  Scotti 
Fontana,  at  whose  expense  the  chapel 
was  erected.  "The  cupola  is  hke- 
wise  by  Pordewyne ;  it  is  divided  into  8 
panels  which  contain  Scripture  sub- 
jects. Immediately  under  the  circular 
opening  of  the  lantern,  upon  which 
18  painted  the  Almighty,  and  on  the 
bands  which  divide  the  panels,  are 
painted  small  compositions  of  children 
playing  ^ith  animals  among  festoons 
of  flowers  of  exquisite  colour  and  fancy. 
Below  the  dome,  on  tlie  frieze  of  the 
entablature,  from  which  it  springs,  is  a 
circle  of  small  frescoes  from  the  hea- 
then mythology,  in  which  the  painter 
has  evidently  revelled." —  C.  W,  C.  Sub- 
jects which  are  thus  so  incongruously 
mixed  with  Scripture  subjects  are — 1. 
Neptune  -and  Amphitrite  with  sea 
monsters  ;  2.  Kape  of  Europa ;  3.  Sile- 
nus  drunk,  borne  by  Fauns  and  Satyrs ; 
4.   Bacchus  with  Faims  and  Satyrs  j 


5.  Hercules  strangling  the  Serpents, 
and  other  figures  expressive  of  his 
Labours  ;  6.  Jupiter  hurling  lightning 
at  the  Giants  ;  7.  Diana  hunting  with 
Nymphs  and  Satyrs ;  8.  Venus  and 
Adonis,  with  Cupids,  Nymphs,  and  Sa- 
tyrs. On  the  piers,  which  alternate 
with  pillars  in  supporting  the  entabla- 
ture, are  figures  called  apostles,  said 
to  be  by  Pordenone,  but  very  inferior 
to  the  paintings  in  the  dome,  and  re- 
sembling more  the  workB  of  Bernardino 
Gattif  who  painted  the  drum  below 
these  piers  with  subjects  from  the  life 
of  the  Virgin.  The  pendentives  are  by 
Pordenone.  These  frescoes  may  be 
seen  exceedingly  well  from  the  gallery 
which  runs  round  the  drum,  behind 
the  pillars  and  piers,  and  which  is 
very  wide.  In  a  series  of  Scripture 
histories,  forming  a  kind  of  frieze 
over  the  arches  of  nave  and  choir, 
the  best  are, — Tobias  and  the  angel 
Raphael,  by  Daniele  Crespi ;  Ruth 
and  the  Reapers,  by  Tiarini ;  several 
by  Gavassettij  of  which  Rachel  and 
Rebecca,  and  the  Apparition  of  the 
Angel  to  Lot  and  his  wife,  near  the 
music  gallery,  by  Qaercino^  are  the 
most  striking.  There  are  some  paint- 
ings in  the  choir  worthy  of  notice: 
a  copy  of  Daniele  da  Volterra's  Taking 
Down  from  the  Cross  by  Tintoretto; 
a  St.  Catherine  by  Fordenone,  with 
an  Annunciation  above  by  Boccaccino, 
On  the  rt.  wall,  on  entering  the  ch.,  is 
the  St.  George,  painted  by  Gatti^  oppo- 
site to  the  St.  Augustine,  as  a  speci- 
men when  competing  with  Pordenone 
for  the  execution  of  the  frescoes  here. 

The  Ch.  of  San  Sisto,  at  the  N. 
extremity  of  the  city,  was  rebuilt  in 
the  beginning  of  the  16th  centy.  It 
has  a  good  nave,  supported  by  columns 
of  grey  granite,  but  from  the  excess  of 
decoration,  in  general  in  bad  taste,  it 
has  a  "heavy  look.  It  formerly  con- 
tained, over  the  high  altar,  Raphael's 
celebrated  Madonna  di  San  Sisto^  now 
in  the  gallery  at  Dresden,  which,  in 
1754,  the  monks  sold  to  the  Elector 
of  Saxony  and  King  of  Poland,  Fred- 
erick Augustus  Ill.jfor  12,000 sequins: 
a  copy  by  Avanzini  of  Piacenza  is  now 


436 


Route  40. — Piacenza — Public  Buildings.  Sect.  V, 


in  its  place.  Amongst  the  paintings 
which  remain  are  the  Slaughter  of  the 
Innocents,  by  Camillo  Procaccini;  Sta. 
Sarbara,  by  Palma  Giovane;  the  Mar- 
tyrdoms of  Sta.  Martina,  by  Bassano, 
and  of  St.  Fabian  and  St.  Benedict,  by 
Paolo  and  Orazio  Farinato,  degli 
Ubertif — all  on  the  walls  of  the  choir. 
The  immense  monument,  in  the  1.  hand 
transept,  of  Margaret  of  Austria,  wife 
of  Ottavio  Famese  (ob.  1586),  is  rich 
but  heavy  ;  it  was  sculptured  by  Gfia- 
cinto  Fiorentino.  The  intarsiattira  of 
the  stalls  of  the  choir  was  very  beautiful, 
but  is  now  much  injured ;  it  represents 
views  of  towers,  castles,  villas,  &c. 

The  Citadella  or  Palazzo  Famese^ 
also  at  the  N.  extremity  of  the  town, 
occupies  a  portion  of  the  site  of  the 
citadel  erected  by  Qtileazzo  Visconti,  in 
1395,  to  protect  Piacenza  on  the  side  of 
the  Po.  The  Pal.  Famese^  which  was 
erected  in  1558  by  Margaret  of  Austria, 
from  the  designs  of  Vignola^  was  once 
a  most  sumptuous  edifice,  and  the 
remains  of  its  splendid  ornaments  may 
be  traced  on  its  dilapidated  walls.  It 
has  long  been  converted  into  a  barrack. 
Of  the  part  erected  in  the  14th  cent. 
a  portion  only  remains  on  the  W.  side, 
from  the  closed  window  in  which  the 
conspirators  who  assassinated  Pier 
Luigi  Famese  showed  his  corpse  to  the 
people,  and  afterwards  hurled  it  into 
the  ditch  below. 

The  Castello,  at  the  S.W.  extremity 
of  Piacenza,  an  irregular  pentagon,  was 
begun  by  Pier  Luigi  Famese  in  1547. 
It  was  permanently  occupied  by  an 
Austrian  garrison  until  1859,  and  had 
been  greatly  strengthened  since  1848. 

The  Palazzo  del  Commune^  in  the 
square  of  i  Cavalli,  dates  from  1281 ;  the 
tower  and  middle  part  in  a  good  style 
of  Lombard  Pointed  architecture ;  the 
great  hall  was  completely  altered  by 
the  Fameses  in  the  17th  centy, 

Palazzo  dei  Tribunall,  formerly 
I/andij  is  remarkable  for  its  fine  fa- 
cade in  brickwork,  with  terracotta 
vnndows  and  cornices.  The  entrance 
and  court  are  in  an  excellent  cinque- 
cento  style.  The  Theatre  opposite, 
formerly  the  Ch.  of  St.  Eustachio,  is 


also  a  good  specimen  of  ornamental 
brickwork. 

Palazzo  Mandellif  near  the  Hdtel  S. 
Marco,  a  large  pile,  the  residence  of 
the  late  Ducal  Court. 

There  are  some  private  collections  of 
paintings  at  Piacenza :  in  the  Pal.  Ma- 
razzani — a  St.  Jerome  by  Gfuercino  ;  a 
Holy  Family  attributed  to  F.  Francia; 
Herodias  by  Idonello  Spada ;  an  Ado- 
ration of  the  Shepherds  by  G.  BeUini. 

The  charitable  institutions  of  Pia- 
cenza are  numerous.  One  may  be 
instanced  as  interesting  to  the  pass- 
ing traveller :  the  Instituto  Gazzola^ 
founded  by  an  officer  of  that  name  in 
the  Spanish  service  for  the  maintenance 
and  education  of  young  females,  who 
also  receive  marriage  portions ;  and  as 
a  School  of  Design.  The  house  con- 
tains a  very  good  collection  of  objects 
useful  for  instruction  in  the  fine  arts. 

The  Great  Hospital  (Ospedale 
Grande),  in  the  Contrada  di  0am- 
pagna,  covers  a  considerable  space  of 
ground.  It  is  well  supported  and 
managed,  and  can  receive  300  patients. 
Annexed  to  it  is  a  medical  library,  be- 
queathed by  some  of  its  former  phy- 
sicians. 

TTie  walk  round  the  decayed  ram- 
parts of  Piacenza  offers  some  fine 
points  of  view  —  the  masses  of  the 
churches  and  palaces  within,  the  dis- 
tant Alps  and  Apennines,  and  the 
glimpses  of  the  Po,  studded  vrith  its 
willowy  islands. 

NekfJibourhood  ofPiaeenia,  An  in- 
teresting exctirsion  may  be  made  to 
Velleia,  the  Pompeii  of  Northern 
Italy,  which  lies  S.E.  of  Piacenza ;  but 
it  cannot  be  reached  with  post-horses : 
indeed  a  part  of  the  road  is  scarcely 
practicable  for  any  carriage,  excepting 
the  vehicles  of  the  country ;  the  dis- 
tance is  about  20  miles.  It  passes 
through  the  following  places. 

San  Polo,  formerly  a  fief  of  the 
family  of  Anguisola^  whose  castle  is 
still  standing  here. 

8a/n  Giorgio,  near  the  Nura  torrent, 
with  a  large  ancient  castle,  and  a  villa 
from  the  designs  of  Vignola,  both  be- 
longing to  the  Sootti — a  noble  family 


Pabma.         Route  40, — Environs  of  Piacenza —  Velleia. 


437 


said  to  be  descended  from  a  branch  of 
the  Scotch  Douglasses  long  settled  at 
Piacenza,  where  one  was  its  Signore  in 
1290. 

Sezzano,  near  which  is  also  a  feudal 
castle,  now  dismantled.  Badagnano, 
where  the  carriage-road  ends. 

The  track  now  leads  to  the  valley  of 
the  Chiero,  and  passes  by  a  spot  about 
#  m.  from  Velleia,  where  flames  formed 
by  carburetted  hydrogen  gas,  are  con- 
stantly issuing  from  the  ground;  we 
soon  come  in  sight  of  the  Monte  Moria 
and  Monte  Movinazzo,  anciently  a 
single  eminence,  but  severed  by  the 
fall  of  the  masses  by  which  the  city  was 
buried.  It  is  conjectured  that  on 
the  summit  was  a  lake,  and  that  the 
waters,  percolating  through  a  lower 
stratum  of  clay,  detached  the  superin- 
cumbent rocks  and  soil,  which,  as  at 
Goldau,  sUd  down  and  covered  Velleia. 
It  is  worthy  of  remark  that  the  names 
of  both  the  hiUs  have  reference  to  the 
catastrophe ;  Kovinazzo  being  derived 
from  rovina,  and  Moria  from  Morte. 
No  coins  have  been  found  of  a  later 
period  than  the  reign  of  the  Emperor 
Probus;  and  hence  we  may  conclude 
tliat  the  catastrophe  took  place  during 
oir  not  long  after  his  short  reign. 

Velleia^  though  it  must  have  been 
a  city  of  considerable  note,  is  no- 
where directly  mentioned  in  any  of 
the  writings  of  ancient  authors ;  but 
there  is  a  curious  indirect  notice  of  it 
in  Pliny,  in  relation  to  the  census  of 
the  Koman  empire  taken  by  Trajan, 
on  which  occasion  there  were  found  to 
be  at  Velleia  six  persons  exceeding  110 
years  of  age,  four  of  120,  and  one  of 
140.  The  subterranean  treasures  were 
first  obscurely  known  in  the  I7th  cen- 
tury ;  and  for  a  long  time  those  who 
were  in  possession  of  the  secret  worked 
the  mine  with  much  profit :  the  larger 
bronzes  went  to  the  beU-founders,  the 
coins  and  ornaments  to  the  goldsmiths 
of  Piacenza ;  but  in  1760,  the  circum- 
stances having  been  made  known  to 
the  Infent  Don  PhiUp,  then  Duke  of 
Parma,  excavations  were  begun  scien- 
tifically, and  in  the  course  of  fivQ»years 
many  statues,  inscriptions,  and  smaller 


antique  articles  were  found,  which 
have  filled  the  museum  at  Parma.  An 
amphitheatre,  temples,  and  a  forum, 
have  been  discovered ;  none  of  the  waUs 
are  more  than  10  ft.  in  height,  the 
mighty  crush  having  thrown  down  the 
upper  part.  The  excavations  have  not 
been  continued  for  several  years. 


We  now  return  to  the  rly.  from 
Piacenza  to  Parma,  which,  upon  quit- 
ting the  gates  of  the  city,  runs  at  a 
short  distance  N.  and  parallel  to  the 
old  post-road,  the  ancient  Via  Emilia, 
so  called  from  Emilius  Lepidus,  who 
constructed  it  B.  c.  187,  which  took  a 
wide  circuit  from  Bologna,  passing 
through  Modena,  Parma,  and  Piacenza, 
to  Milan.  The  rly.  stats,  are  at  very 
short  distances  froai  the  several  towns. 
One  mile  from  Piacenza,  on  the  rt.,  is 

San  LazzarOf  so  called  from  an  an- 
cient hospital  for  lepers,  upon  the  site 
of  which  is  now  erected  an  extensive 
ecclesiastical  seminary.  The  celebrated 
Cardinal  Alberoni,  who  was  bom  in 
the  neighbouring  town  of  Fiorenzuola, 
left  all  his  property  to  this  institution. 
Besides  the  stildents,  it  supports 
many  poor.  The  college  contains 
some  good  pictures,  in  an  apartment 
called  the  Cardinal's  Saloon.  The  Ap- 
parition of  oiur  Lord  to  St.  Francesca 
Biomana,  by  Taddeo  Zucchero ;  a  Virgin 
and  Child,  attributed  to  Fietro  PerU' 
gino;  two  paintings  of  Warriors  on 
Horseback,  by  Borgognone ;  his  own 
portrait,  by  Jf.  JPolidoro  di  Carataggio, 
In  the  chiu*ch  is  the  monument  of  the 
Cardinal  founder,  and  a  good  Christ  on 
the  Cross,  by  C.  Brocaccini,  The  li- 
brary contains  20,000  volumes,  amongst" 
which  a  copy  of  Alberoni' s  works, 
with  MS.  additions  and  annotations. 
The  whole  institution  is  conducted 
upon  most  benevolent  and  liberal 
principles.  Cross  the  river  Nura, 
on  a  handsome  bridge  of  five  elliptical 
arches,  1  m.  before  reaching  the 

9  kil.  Bonie  Nura  Stat.,  near  which 
were  discovered  the  mosaic  pavements 
now  in  the  Museum  at  Parma.  Between 


438 


lioute  40. — Fiorenzuola, 


Sect.  V. 


this  and  the  next  stat.,  but  on  the 
post-road,  not  far  horn  the  line  of  rly. 
on  the  rt.,  are  the  villages  of 

Cadeo^  whose  name,  like  San  Laz- 
zaro,  is  a  memorial  of  ancient  piety  ; 
for  here,  in  1110,  one  G^isulphus,  a 
citizen  of  Piacenza,  founded  an  hos' 
pital,  Casa  di  Dio,  or  Ca'  Deo, 

Fontana  fredda^  now  a  small  place, 
but  anciently  a  seat  of  the  Gothic 
kings.  Theodoric  had  here  a  palace, 
and  the  spring,  answering  to  its  present 
name,  is  in  ancient  chronicles  called 
"Fons  Theodorici."  He  is  supposed 
to  have  founded  the  present  parish 
church  of  San  Salvatore. 

Cross  the  Arda  torrent,  and  soon 
after  reach  the 

13  kil.  Morenzuola  Stat.,  a  small  but 
rather  active  town.  It  is  supposed  to 
occupy  the  site  of  the  Soman  JFidentia. 
It  has  some  mediaeval  relics.  To  one 
tower  chains  are  pendent,  to  which,  it  is 
said,  criminals  were  bound.  Small'  as 
the  place  is,  it  was  once  rich  in  conven- 
tual and  ecclesiastical  establishments. 
The  principal  church,  San  MorenzOy  is 
still  collegiate.  The  carved  work  of 
the  choir  is  worth  notice;  and  the 
sacristy  contains  some  curious  relics 
of  ancient  art,  amongst  others  a  fine 
specimen  of  Niello. 

3  m.  on  the  left  is  the  Monastery 
of  Chiaravalle,  founded  by  the  Palla- 
vicinis  in  1136. 


YeUeia  may  also  be  reached  from 
Fiorenzuola  :  the  road  is  shorter  than 
from  Piacenza,  but  it  is  not  so  good. 
It  passes  through  Castel  Arqtiato, 
which  stands  on  the  bank  of  the  Arda, 
a  decayed  but  interesting  little  town. 
The  Palazzo  JPubblico  is  a  good  Q-othic 
building.  Near  Castel  Arquato  is  the 
Monte  ZagOy  abounding  in  fossil  shells 
and  marine  animal  remains  in  a  high 
state  of  preservation.  The  Cortesi 
paleontological  collection,  now  in  the 
university  of  Parma,  where  it  has  re- 
mained unpacked  for  a  quarter  of  a 
century,  was  principally  formed  from 
fossils  found  in  tliis  neighbourhood. 


From  Fiorenzuola  we   continue  to 
follow    the    line     of     Roman     road 
through    a    territory    remarkable    for 
its    fertility.     The  country  on  the  1. 
extending  to  the  Po  was   once  called 
the  Stato  Pallavicino,   from  the    cele- 
brated   family    who    held    the    sove- 
reignty  of   it.      It   was  erected   into 
an    imperial   Vicariato    in    the     12tli 
century,  and  extended  from  the  Po  to 
the  Apennines,  embracing  the  districts 
between  the  Chiavenna  and  Taro  rivers. 
Its  chief  town,  Busseto,  was  honoured 
with  the  title  of  citv  by  Charles  Y., 
and  was  the  place  ot  a  conference  be- 
tween  that   sovereign  and   Paul   III. 
The  Rocca,  a  castellated  building  where 
this  meeting  was  held,  contains  a  large 
Gothic  court.     The  other  towns  were 
Corte  Maggiore — there  is  a  fine  tomb 
of  Rinaldo  di  Pallavicini  II.  (1481)  in 
the  parish  church  here,  removed  from 
the    Convent    of    St.    Francis  —  and 
Soarza,  near  the  Po. 

7  kil.  Alseno  Stat.  There  are  fine 
views  of  the  mountains  on  the  rt.  from 
the  rly.  hereabouts.  [The  geologist  will 
observe  that  the  higher  chain  of  the 
Apennines  is  bordered  towards  the 
plain  by  a  lower  range  of  hills  covered 
with  vegetation ;  this  is  entirely  formed 
of  pHocene  marls  and  sands,  extremely 
abundant  in  fossil  shells,  whilst  the 
more  distant  points  are  composed  of 
eocene  beds.  Tlie  village  of  Castel  Ar- 
quato, at  the  base  of  the  Monte  Zago, 
and  commanding  the  entrance  to  the 
valley  of  the  Arda,  which  runs  far  into 
the  Apennines,  forms  from  hereabouts 
a  picturesque  object  in  the  landscape. 
The  ravines  round  the  village  are  cele- 
brated as  localities  for  fossils  of  the 
phocene  series,  described  by  Brocchi.J 
ThQ  large  red-brick  villa  seen  on  tlie 
rt.  of  the  Alseno  stat.  is  that  of  S.  Polo, 
belonging  to  the  Anguisola  family. 
After  crossing  the  Stirone  is 

7  kil.  Borgo  San  Donino  Stat.,  close 
to  the  town  (J««* ;  Croce  Bianca,  oppo- 
site the  Duomo,  fairly  good).  This  small 
city,  often  noticed  in  the  mediaeval  his- 
tory of  Italy,  contests  with  Fiorenzuola 
the  honour  of  being  the  ancient  Fi- 
dentia.     It  has  now  a  population  of 


Parma. 


Route  40. — Borgo  San  Dmino. 


439 


4O00  Inhab.  The  castle  and  towers, 
which  so  often  enabled  the  inhabitants 
to  defy  the  power  of  Parma,  have  long 
been  levelled  with  the  ground. 

The  principal  vestiges  of  medieval 
antiquity  which  the  city  still  retains  are 
the  G-othic  Palazzo  Publico  and  the 
Duomo.  "  San  Donino,  in  whose  hp- 
noiur  this  church  was  erected,  was  a  sol- 
dier in  the  army  of  the  Emperor  Maxi- 
mian,  and  served  under  his  orders  in 
Germany.  Donino,  with  many  others, 
became  a  Christian ;  and  when  Maximian 
issued  an  edict,  ordering  all  persons  to 
renounce  the  Christian  faith  on  pain  of 
death,  Donino  fled,  but  was  overtaken 
near  the  river  Stirone,  by  the  emissaries 
of  the  tyrant,  and  immediately  put  to 
death.  Near  that  spot  there  was  at 
that  time  a  village  called  Julia. 

"  In  362  the  Bishop  of  Parma,  ad- 
monished by  a  dream,  sallied  forth  and 
discovered  the  body  of  Donino — known 
to  be  that  of  the  martyr  by  an  inscrip- 
tion found  on  the  spot,  and  by  the 
sweet  odour  wliich  issued  from  the 
grave.  A  chapel  was  immediately 
erected  to  receive  the  holy  remains :  and 
we  learn  from  a  letter  from  St.  Ambrose 
to  Paustinus  that  the  village  of  Julia 
had  changed  its  name  into  that  of  San 
Donino  so  early  as  387. 

**Erom  that  time  the  shrine  of  St. 
Donino  became  one  of  the  most  fre- 
quented in  Italy,  and  received  oblations 
which  led  to  the  construction  of  a 
temple  on  a  larger  scale.  The  existing 
church  is  a  large  building,  and  has  un- 

*  dergone  various  alterations.  The  oldest 
part  of  it  is  in  the  Lombard  style ;  but 
the  very  curious  and  rich  faqade  belongs 
to  times  subsequent  to  thpse  of  the 
Lopibard — to  times  when  the  imitation 
of  tl^e  Roman  bas-reliefs  succeeded  to 
the  monstrous  imagery  of  the  7th  and 
8th  centuries.  Ko  record  remains  of 
the  period  at  which  this  facade  was 
erected ;  but  there  are  various  cireum- 
stanpes  which  give  us  reason  to  beheve 
that  it,  cannot  be  older  than  the  12th 
century.     The  barbarous,  character  of 

I      the  sculpture,  thp  neglect  of  aU  propor- 
l      tions,  the  heads  as  large  as  the  bodies, 

•  might  seem  tp  inc^cate  a  remoter  an- 


tiquity; but  there  is  a  bas-relief  over 
one  of  the  gates  at  Milan,  known  to 
have  been  executed  at  the  close  of  the 
12th  century,  which  is  no  less  rude,  and 
which  proves  that  the  arts  of  Italy, 
down  to  that  period,  continued  to  be 
in  a  state  of  the  lowest  depression.  The 
projecting  portals,  the  pediment  over 
the  doors,  the  pillars  resting  on  animals, 
are  all  features  of  the  latter  part  of  the 
11th  and  of  the  12th  century."— G. 
Knight, 

There  is  a  good  deal  of  mediaeval  sculp- 
ture, curious  to  the  antiquarian.  In  one 
of  the  lateral  porches,  called  the  porch 
of  Taurusy  the  heads  of  buUs  are  intro- 
duced ;  in  another,  the  porch  of  Aries, 
the  pillars  rest  upon  kneelipg  rams,  and 
the  ram's  head  is  introduced  in  the 
capitals,  while  the  sun — ^represented  by 
a  human  head  surrounded  with  rays — 
appears  in  the  archivolt.  Some  sculp- 
tures of  the  porches  are  taken  from 
Scripture  history  ;  others  from  Pagan. 
"Hercules"  is  wrestling  with  the  Eon. 
A  square  tablet,  containing  the  figure 
of  a  woman  in  a  chariot  drawn  by 
dragons,  holding  a  torch  in  either 
hand,  is  the  same  design  which  at  San 
Mark's  at  Venice  is  called  Ceres  or 
Proserpine.  It  is  in  the  same  singular 
low  relief.  Among  the  sculptures  on 
the  walls  of  the  apse  are  the  hunt  of 
the  sold  by  the  Demons,  imder  the 
emblems  of  the  stag  and  the  hounds  ; 
and  the  "  Petra  SoUs,"  exhibiting 
the  sun,  followed  by  an  inscription 
in  uncial  letters.  The  interior  of 
the  cathedral,  which  is  scarcely  al- 
tered, is  as  interesting  as  the  out- 
side.    The  crypt  is  well  worth  a  visit. 

Borgo  San  Donino  contains  a  large 
Poorhouse,  or  Union  Workhouse,  esta- 
blished by  the  French  in  the  buildings 
of  a  suppressed  convent.  On  leaving 
the  stat.  cross  the  river  on  a  handsome 
bridge. 

MovaccMa  Codv/ra^  on  the  torrent 
Rovacchia,  where  a  church  marks  the 
site  of  a  deserted  village. 

Parola,  Here  a  certain  Podesta  of 
Parma  built  a  castle,  for  the  purpose  of 
keeping  the  "  Borghigiani "  in  check. 
The  traces  of  the  ruined  building  are  in 


440 


Eoitte  4:0, "-Castel  Guelfo — the  Taro. 


Sect.  V. 


the  fields  to  the  S.  of  the  road,  and  the 
situation  so  struck  Ariosto,  that  he  has 
described  it  in  the  following  stanza : — 

**  Oiacea  non  lungi  da  Parigi  un  loco, 
Che  volgea  un  miglio,  o  poco  meno  intorno, 
Lo  cingea  tutto  un  argine  non  poco 
Sublime,  a  euisa  d'  un  teatro  adorno. 
Un  castel  gia  vi  fu,  ma  a  ferro,  e  a  foco 
Le  mura  e  i  t<9tti,  ed  a  rovina  andorno. 
Un  simil  pud  vederne  in  su  la  strada, 
Qual  volta  a  Borgo  il  Parmigiano  vada." 

Orlando  Furioso,  cant,  xxvii.  47. 

[^Fontenellatg.  3  m.  beyond  Parola, 
a  road  striking  off  on  the  1.  leads  to 
JRocca  di  FonteneUatOy  a  village  near 
the  Rio  Q-rande  torrent,  consisting 
chiefly  of  a  villa  belonging  to  the  family 
of  San  Vitale,  in  which  there  is  a  room 
painted  in  fresco  by  ParmigianinOy  on 
the  plan  of  Correggio's  more  celebrated 
Camera  di  San  Paolo  at  Parma  (p.  448). 
It  is  supposed  the  artist  took  refuge  here 
when  persecuted  by  the  confraternity 
of  La  Steccata,  and  painted  the  room 
out  of  gratitude  to  his  protectors.  The 
subject  is  the  fable  of  Actseon,  repre- 
sented in  13  lunettes,  above  which  are 
children  on  ihe  roof  of  the  grotto.  In 
one  of  the  lunettes  is  the  portrait  of  a 
beautiful  Countess  di  San  Vitale  j  in 
another  two  of  the  children  embracing 
each  other.  One  of  the  hunters  in  the 
second  lunette  is  the  painter's  portrait. 
Diana  throwing  water  in  the  foce  of 
Actseon  is  very  graceftd.  The  room, 
smaller  than  that  of  San  Paolo,  is  badly 
lighted.  The  frescoes  are  in  excellent 
preservation.] 

9  kil.  Castel  Chuelfo  Stat.y  a  small 
place,  with  the  ancient  castle  from 
which  it  derives  its  name.  One  portion 
is  in  ruin,  others  are  partly  modern- 
ized ;  but  the  bold  projecting  machico- 
lations still  remain,  as  well  as  the  ori- 
ginal outline,  testifying  to  its  feudal 
grandeur.  T&ie  walls  are  now  covered 
with  ivy.  The  castle  was,  at  one  time, 
called  Torre  cP  Orlando^  not  from  the 
Paladin,  but  from  Orlando  Fallavicini, 
who  held  it  for  the  Q-hibelline  party ; 
but  being  besieged  and  taken  (1407)  by 
Ottone  Terziy  the  lord  of  Parma,  and 
a  great  leader  of  the  opposite  faction,  he 
changed  its  name  to  Castel  ChtelfOf  in 
honour  of  his  victory. 


From  this  spot,  and  dnxing  the  re- 
mainder of  the  journey,  the  views  of 
the  Apennines,  ranging  along  the 
southern  horizon,  are  fine. 

Soon  afterwards  we  reach  the  banks 
of   the   Taro,    in    the   winter  season 
a  fine   and  rapid  torrent  rushing   to 
join  the   Po,   whilst  in   the  sununer, 
the   wide    waste    of    the    stonj    bed 
marks    the   extent    of  its    str^un   at 
other  seasons.     This  river  is  of  con- 
siderable note  in  ancient  geography,  as 
having  been  the  boundary  between  the 
Ghiulish  and  the  Ligurian  tribes.     In 
the  autumn  it  swells  with  sudden  and 
impetuous  fury,  and  during  the  whole 
winter  season  the  passage  was  here  at- 
tended with  much  difficulty  and  periL 
Such  dangers  so  often  occurred  during 
the  middle  ages,  that  bridge-building 
was  undertaken  as  a  work  of  Christian 
charity:  and,  somewhat  like  the  Pont 
Saint  JSsprity  the  first  bridge  over  the 
Taro  was  erected  about  1170,  by  the 
exertions  of  a  poor  hermit  of  I^nan- 
tola,   who,  stationing   himself  by  the 
side  of  the  Via  Emilia,  begged  until 
he  collected  sufficient  money  to  build 
it.    But,  after  sustaining  repeated  da- 
mage from  the  violence  of  the  river, 
the  hermit's  bridge  was  finally  carried 
away  in.  1345,  and  ill  replaced  by  a 
dangerous  and  inconvenient  ferry,  even 
till  our  own  times.     The  present  mag- 
nificent bridge  was  begun  by  Maria 
Louisa  in  1816,  and  completed  in  1821, 
at  a  cost  of  2,161,508  fr.    It  is  586 
metres  (1922  ft.)  in  length,  and  com- 
posed of  20  arches.     Colossal  statues 
of  the  four  principal  streams  of  the 
state,  the  Parma,  the  Taro,  the  Enza, 
and  the  Stirone,  resting  upon  their  urns, 
adorn  the  abutments  at  each  end ;  it  is 
in  many  respects  a  work  worthy  of  the 
best  times  of  Italy.    The  rly.  crosses 
the  river  on  a  separate  bridge  a  little 
lower  down  the  stream ;  from  here  the 
spires  of  Parma  come  into  view.    GPhe 
river  Parma  is  crossed  on  a  new  bridge, 
which  contrasts  favourably  with  wie 
three  older  ones  seen  from  it  on  the  rt., 
and  the  line,  after  running  along  the 
Ducal  gardens,  soon  brings  us  to  the 
13  kU.  Paima  stat.,  situated  close  to 


Parma. 


HoiUe  40. — Parma — History — Cathedral, 


441 


the  city  gate  (Porta  S.  Bernardo), 
where  omnibuses  to  the  hotels  and 
hackney  carriages  will  be  found  waiting. 

Pabma.  {IniM:  Albergo  della  Croce 
Bianca,  in  the  Piazza  della  Steccata, 
new,  kept  by  ComeUi,  who  has  Hved 
in  England,  and  as  steward  to  the 
British  Minister  at  Turin;  la  Posta, 
in  the  main  street,  fair,  but  with  dis- 
agreeable smells  from  the  stables 
beneath ;  il  Pavone,  said  to  be  a  well- 
oonducted  house,  in  a  comer  of  the 
Piazza.)  This  city,  whose  population 
now  exceeds  45,000,  is  of  an  oval 
shape,  which  it  has  retained  from 
remote  antiquity.  Situated  in  the 
territory  of  the  Boian  Q^auls,  it  was 
reduced  to  a  Boman  colony  as  early 
as  B.C.  187;  destroyed  during  the 
wars  of  the  Triumyirate,  it  was  re- 
built by  Juhus  Ceesar  and  Augustus. 
In  the  middle  ages,  like  most  of  the 
large  towns  in  Italy,  it  was  successively 
governed  as  a  republic  and  by  some  of 
its  great  famihes — the  most  remark- 
able of  the  latter  being  the  Terzis,  the 
De'  Bossis,  the  Pallavicinis,  and  the 
San  Vitales.  Julius  II.  obtained  it 
from  the  Dukes  of  Milan  in  1513 ; 
it  remained  a  possession  of  tbe 
Popes  until  15^,  when  Paul  III. 
made  it,  as  well  as  Piacenza,  over 
to  his  natural  son.  Pier  Luigi  Far- 
nese,  with  the  title  of  duke.  It 
is  said  to  have  been  called  JParma 
irova.  its  similarity  to  the  form  of  a 
shield.  But  the  torrent  Parma,  which 
runs  through  the  city,  most  probably 
gave  its  name  to  the  buildings  which 
arose  upon  its  banks.  When  the 
city  was  under  the  authority  of  the 
Popes,  it  was  represented  by  a  female 
figure  sitting  upon  a  pile  of  shields, 
and  holding  a  figure  of  Victory,  with 
the  inscription  of  Parwa  av/rea. 

Parma  suffered  from  an  earthquake 
in  1832,  when  several  houses  were  so 
much  injured  as  to  require  being  rebuilt. 
The  Via  Emiha,  which  divides  the  city 
into  two  nearly  equal  portions,  crosses, 
in  the  centre,  the  Piazza  Ghra/nde,  which 
has  on  the  N.  side  the  Palazzo  del 

N.  /to^i/— 1866. 


Commune,  with  its  bell-tower.  So  com- 
plete has  been  the  subversion  of  the 
ancient  colony  of  Lepidus,  that  a  few 
inscriptions,  mutilated  sculptures,  and 
objects  of  jewellery  are  all  that  remain 
of  Boman  times.  The  name  of  Parma 
is  connected  with  some  of  the  principal 
events  in  the  Lombard  league;  but 
little  of  its  mediaeval  character  remains, 
except  in  the  fine  group  formed  by  the 
Duomo  and  the  JBaptistetn/,  which 
stand  close  to  one  another  at  a  short 
distance  to  the  N.  of  the  Piazza  Grande. 

Plan  for  msiiing  the  Sights  of  Parma 
in  a  daif)  and  in  t(^ographical  order. 

Cathedral;  Baptistery;  Ch.  of  San 
GriovanniMjongelista;  TeatroFamese; 
Galleria;  IMrary ;  Museum  of  Anti- 
quities; Printing  Office;  Camera  di 
San  Paolo  ;  Ch.  of  S.  Alessandro ;  Ch. 
of  La  Steccata;  Piazza  Grrande ;  Uni- 
versity ;  Ch.  of  the  Annunziata ;  GHar- 
dino  Ducale  ;  CitadeUa  ;  Stradone  and 
Boulevards.  The  tourist  will  find 
hackney  coaches  at  2  fr.  an  hour,  whicli 
will  materially  assist  him  in  getting 
over  his  work  in  a  short  time ;  or  the 
landlords  at  the  hotels  will  furnish  car- 
riages at  tlie  same  rate. 

The  Dwymo  or  Cathedral:  the  ex- 
terior of  the  W.  front  is  almost  un- 
altered. The  transepts  and  the  choir 
are  Lombard,  and  the  centre  is  crowned 
by  an  octagon  tower  and  dome.  In  the 
great  portal  the  peculiar  Lombard  style 
will  be  recognised.  The  building  was 
consecrated  by  Pope  Pascal  II.  a.d. 
1106  J  many  portions  are  much  later. 
The  principal  entrance,  forming  the 
central  door  of  the  fia^ade,  has  on  each 
side  colossal  Hons  of  red  Verona  mar- 
ble, the  one  grasping  the  serpent,  the 
other  the  ram :  they  were  sculptured  by 
G.  Bono  da  Bisone,  in  1281.  The  other 
sculptures  of  this  portal  are  by  Bian- 
chino,  in  1493.  The  sun  mystically 
placed  in  the  keystone  of  the  circular 
arch,  the  months  by  the  principal  occu- 
pations during  each  on  either  side;  the 
himt,  the  allegory  of  the  pursuit  of 
the  soul  by  the  fiend,  over  the  hntel, 


liiillllll!  l!!li!ii,i 


Parma* 


Bovte  40. — Parma — The  Dvxmo, 


443 


are  curiouB:  a  few  Boman  insoriptionB 
are  built  up  in  the  walls,  indicating 
perhaps  how  many  more  are  concealed 
in  its  core  or  beneath  in  the  foundations. 
The  interior,  excepting  some  0othic 
interpolations  and  some  modem  addi- 
tions, is  in  a  fine  Lombard  style,  and 
the  arrangement  of  the  tnforium  is  re- 
markable :  "  The  vaulting  of  the  nave 
is  elliptical;  a  circumstance  I  do  not 
remember  having  met  with  elsewhere  in 
a  building  of  this  era." — Woods.  Mag- 
nificent butperishiag  frescoes  cover  the 
walls.  The  most  important  of  these  are 
upon  the  cupola,  and  were  executed  by 
Correggio  between  the  year&  1522  and 
1630.  The  subject  is  the  Assumption 
-  oi  the  Virgin.  GDhe  painter  has  ima- 
gined that  the  octagon,  or  drum,  from 
which  the  cupohr  rises,  embraces  the 
space  on  earth  in  which  stood  the  s^ul- 
chre  of  the  Virgin ;  for  this  purpose, 
upon  the  octagon  itself,  from  which 
the  great  vault  springs,  runs  a  balus- 
trade, above  which  rises  a  candela- 
brum at  each  of  the  8  angles,  with  a 
number  of  boys  between  engaged  in 
lighting  tapers,  or  burning  mcense  and 
N  odoriferous  herbs.  On  the  balustrade, 
\  and  in  front  of  the  base  of  the  cupola, 
stand  the  Apostles  disposed  around 
looking  upwards  with  astonishment, 
and  as  if  dazzled  by  the  great  light  of 
the  Cdestial  host  who  transport  the 
Virgin;  and  above,  Heaven  appears 
open  to  receive  her.  The  Angel  Gabriel 
descends  to  meet  her,  and  the  different 
hierarchies  of  the  blessed  circle  around 
him.  In  the  arches  imder  the  cu- 
pola, or  on  its  pendentives,  are  repre- 
sented the  Four  Protectors  of  the  City 
of  Parma — St.  Hilary,  St.  Bernard,  St. 
John  the  Baptist,  and  St.  Thomas — at- 
tended by  Angels  symbohcal  of  the 
virt.ue8  of  the  Saint,  and  with  the  em- 
blems and  ornaments  of  his  dignity .  St. 
John,  holding  a  Lamb ;  angels  aroimd 
darting,  as  it  were,  through  the  clouds : 
St.  Thomas,  also  surrounded  by  angels, 
some  bearing  exotic  fruits,  emblematical 
of  this  apostle's  labours  in  India ;  St. 
^  Hilary,  looking  down  upon  the  city 
with  an  expression  of  kindness  and  pro- 
tection ;  while  St.  Bernard,  kneeling,  is 


imploring  on  its  behalf.    This  magni- 
ficent work,  which  occupied  so  many 
years  of  the  artist's  Ufe,  was  poorly  paid 
for  and  inadequately  appreciated.    He 
was  much  teased  and  thwarted  by  the 
cathedral  wardens :  one  of  them,  in  allu- 
sion to  the  fact  that  many  more  Hmbs 
than  bodies  are  visible  from  below,  told 
him  that  he  had  made  a  "  hash  of 
frogs,"   un  guazzefto    di    rone.      The 
work  is  remarkable  fo»  its  chiaro-scuro, 
confined    indeed,    as    compared    with 
Correggio' s  oil  pictures,  to  a  light  scale, 
especiafiy  in  the  upper  portions  ;  for  its 
wonderful  foreshortenings  ;  and  for  the 
extensive  range  in  the  size  of  the  figures, 
in  order  to  convey  by  their  perspective 
diminution  an  impression  of  great  space. 
"  It  must  be  evident  that  gradations  in 
magnitude  will  be  more  full  and  varied 
when  they  comprehend,  if  only  in  a 
limited  degree,  the  perspective  diminu- 
tion of  forms.   The  great  Italian  artists 
seem  to  have  considered  this  essential 
to  distinguish  painting,  however  severe 
in  style,  from  basso-nhevo,   in  which 
the  varieties  of  magnitude  are  real.   But 
in  the  works  by  Michael  Angelo  and 
Raphael  this  perspective  diminution  of 
figures  is  confined  to  narrow  hmits; 
partly  because  the  technical  means  may 
have  been  wanting  to  mark  the  relative 
distajoces  of  objects  when  the  work  was 
seen  under  the  conditions  required ;  but 
chiefly  because  figures  much  reduced  in 
size  cannot    be  consistently  rendered 
expressive  as  actors  or  spectators.    In 
the  second  compartment  of  the  ceiling 
in  the  Sistine  Chapel  the  efiects  of  the 
perspective  are  expressed  without  re- 
straint ;  but  the  indistinctness  which 
was    the    consequence    was    probably 
among  the  causes  that  induced  Michael 
Angelo  to  reduce  the  space  in  depth  in 
the  other  compartments  (as  regards  the 
figures)   almost   to  the  conditions  of 
sculpture.    In  Baphael's  Transfigura- 
tion the  figures  on  the  mount  are  sup- 
posed to  be  distant  with  reference  to 
those  below  ;  but,  had  they  been  so  re- 
presented, they  wuuld  have  been  devoid 
of  meaning  and  importance :  they  are, 
therefore,  by  a  judicious  Uberty,  brought 
within  that  range  of  vision  where  Qt* 


444 


Route  40. — Parma — The  Dwomo, 


Sect.  V. 


pression,  action,  and  form  are  cognizable. 
One  great  exception  is,  however,  not  to 
be  overlooked ;  Correggio,  who  was 
devoted  to  picturesque  gradation  under  ! 
all  circumstances,  and  sometimes  at  any 
sacrifice,  adopted  a  difierent  course. 
The  perspective  diminution  in  the  cu- 
polas at  Parma  (to  say  nothing  of  the 
objects  being  represented  as  if  above  the 
eye)  is  extreme ;  so  that  even  the  prin- 
cipal figures  are  altogether  subservient 
to  the  expression  of  space.  This  was 
the  chief  object ;  but  the  grandeur  of 
form  and  character  which  the  nearer 
figures  exhibit  has  been  justly  con- 
sidered to  place  these  works  far  above 
subsequent  efforts  of  the  kind,  which  in 
the  hands  of  the  *  machinists '  soon  de- 
generated to  mere  decoration. 

"  If  the  criticisms  which  the  frescoes 
in  the  Duomo  at  Parma  called  forth 
on  their  completion  had  any  founda- 
tion, it  may  be  inferred  that  the  great 
distance  at  which  the  figures  were  seen 
rendered  it  impossible,  in  some  cases, 
to  discern  the  nicer  gradations  of  light 
and  shade  which  are  essential  to  make 
perspective  appearances  intelligible. 
Such  considerations  must,  at  all  events, 
operate  to  restrict  foreshortening  under 
similar  circumstances." — Bastlake. 

"  At  first,  and  seen  from  below,  this 
magnificent  work  appears  extremely 
confused,  but  with  great  amenity  of 
colours.  This  confusion  is  found  to 
arise  from  two  things,  the  destruction 
of  the  colours  and  consequent  relief  of 
the  parts,  and  the  blotches  of  white 
produced  where  the  plaster  has  fallen, 
which  I  regret  to  say  are  neither  few 
nor  small.  The  lights  too  have  doubt- 
less changed  somewhat  of  their  tone, 
and  become  darker  than  they  were 
originally The  effect  is  ex- 
tremely injured  by  the  round  window 
which  is  found  in  each  of  the  eight  com- 
partments of  the  base  of  the  dome,  and 
the  picture  is  well  seen  only  when 
those  lights  are  jiidden. — Prof.  Phil- 
lips, M.A.. 

The  decay  of  these  frescoes  is  to  be 
chiefly  attributed  to  the  old  insufficient 
roof  over  the  dome,  which  still  exists 
under  the  new  leaden  one,  added  to  save 


the  wrecks  of  Correggio's  works  from 
destruction.  Their  present  deterio- 
rated state  has  also  been  partly  at- 
tributed to  Correggio  having  used  an 
intonaco  containing  a  proportion  of 
sand.  A  closer  inspection  oi  them  may 
be  obtained  by  ascending  to  the  roof  of 
the  church,  from  four  small  openings  in 
the  drum  of  the  cupola.  A  good  aid 
towards  their  study  and  comprehen- 
sion will  be  the  examination  of  the 
beautiful  copies  of  them  in  the  Fina- 
coteca  (p.  451)  by  the  late  Professor 
Toschi  and  his  pupils. 

The  vaultings  of  the  choir  and  nave 
are  by  GHrolamo  Mazzola,  the  cousin 
and  scholar  of  Parmigianino.    The  sides 
of  the  nave  are  by  Lattanzio  Oambara, 
who  worked  here  from  1568  to  1573. 
Near  the  door  he  has  introduced  fine 
heads  of  Correggio  and  Parmigianino — 
evidently    portraits.      These    frescoes, 
are  academical  in  treatment ;  they  want 
brightness,  the  subjects  are  confused, 
and  not  well  adapted  for  mural  deco- 
ration.    By   &.  Cesare  Procaocini  are 
two  good  paintings  of  King  David  and 
St.  C^ilia.     The  other  works  of  art  here 
worth  noticing  are,  in  the  4th  chapel  of 
the  rt.  aisle,  belonging  to  the  Commime 
of  Parma,  several  paintmgs  of  the  15th 
centy.   relative    to  SS.   Fabianus  and 
Sebastian,  by  Jacopo  JJoschi  and  Sm^- 
tolomeo  Qrossi..    They  had  been  white- 
washed over,  and  have  only  been  lately 
rediscovered.      The   picture    over  the 
altar,   of  a  Virgin  and  Saints,  is   by 
AnseUni,  In  a  chapel  near  the  southern 
door  of  the  transept  is  a  good  Cruci- 
fixion with  Saints  by  B,  Gatti.    The 
Valesi-Baganzola  chapel,  opening  out 
of  the  N.  aisle,  is  covered  with  fres- 
coes  of    the  15th    centy.,  by   Loschi 
and    Qrossi,    representing    scenes    in 
the  lives  of  SS.  Andrew,  Christopher, 
Catherine,  &c.,  and  are  interesting  in 
the  early  history  of  the  school  of  Parma. 
Amongst  the  minor  objects  of  inte- 
rest are  the  seats  of  the  choir,  finely 
carved,  and  the  rich  high  altar  j  also 
fragments  of  a  fine  painted  glass  win- 
dow, executed  by  Gondrate  in  1574, 
from  the  designs  of  L.  Qambara. 

The  inscription  upon  Bodow^s  tomb 


Pabma. 


Eoute  40. — Parma — Battisterio, 


445 


is  cut  in  imitation  of  his  printing  types. 
The  tomb  of  Bartolomeo  Montini  (died 
1507),  by  di  Chrate,  should  also  be 
noticed.  There  is  a  monument  to 
Agostino  Oaracci,  who  died  at  Panna 
in  1650,  in  the  S.  transept. 

Petrarch  held  preferment  here.  By 
his  will,  in  which  he  most  truly 
styles  himself  inutile  Archidiacono,  he 
directed  that,  if  he  died  at  Parma,  he 
should  be  interred  in  this  cathedral. 
In  1713  a  cenotaph  was  erected  in  the 
chapel  at  the  extremity  of  the  rt.  aisle 
to  his  memory  by  Nicolo  Cicognari,  one 
of  the  canons. 

The  subterranean  Church  is  large 
and  well  lighted,  and  supported  by 
28  marble  columns  with  varied  capitals. 
It  contains  some  good  specimens  of 
sculpture  by  Prospero  Clementi  of 
Beggio  —  the  Altar  and  Shrine  of  San 
Semardino  degli  Ub^rti,  Bishop  of 
Parma  (died  1133).  The  saint  is  repre- 
sented between  angels  supporting  his 
mitre  and  pastoral  staff.  The  bas-reliefs 
were  designed  by  Oirolamo  Mazzola. 
The  tomb  oiBartolommeo  Pra^o,  erected 
in  1539.  Two  weeping  figures  are  full 
of  expression :  the  drapery  is  of  good 
execution ;  the  background  is  a  mosaic 
upon  a  gold  ground,  rare  in  a  work  of 
such  modem  date.  In  a  chapel  open- 
ing on  the  rt.  out  of  this  subterranean 
ch.  some  curious  early  frescoes  have  been 
discovered  under  the  whitewash ;  one, 
of  the  Madonna  seated  on  a  rich  Q-othic 
throne,  is  fine  and  broad  in  character, 
with  the  Donatorio,  a  Bishop,  on  her 
rt.  The  ornamental  heads  of  saints 
in  medallions  round  the  base  of  the 
vault  are  very  good  specimens  of  the 
15th  centy. 

The  Campanile  is  in  the  ordinary 
square  form  of  such  Lombard  edi- 
fices, divided  into  stories  by  3  cornices, 
with  an  open  belfry  on  the  summit. 

The  Battisterio,  This  is  one  of  the 
most  splendid  of  the  Baptisteries  of 
Italy.  It  is  entirely  built  of  red  and 
grey  Verona  marble,  and  was  com- 
menced after  the  designs  of  Benedetto 

N.  Ji5a^— 1866. 


Antelami,  in  the  year  1196.  But  the 
work  experienced  many  interruptions, 
especially  during  the  supremacy  of  the 
powerful  and  ferocious  Eccelino  da 
Romano,  who,  in  the  middle  of  the 
13th  century,  governed  the  north  of 
Italy  in  the  name  of  the  Emperor,  and 
who,  displeased  with  the  inhabitants 
of  Parma,  forbade  them  access  to  the 
quarries  of  the  Veronese  territory,  from 
which  the  marble  for  the  battisterio 
was  obtained.  In  consequence  of  these 
interruptions  it  was  not  finished  until 
1281,  which  will  sufficiently  account  for 
the  appearance  of  the  round  style  in  the 
lower  part  of  the  building,  and  of  the 
pointed  above. 

The  battisterio  is  encircled  with  four 
tiers  of  small  columns  on  the  outside, 
forming  as  many  open  galleries,  which, 
with  more  observance  of  ancient  rules 
than  is  usually  found  in  the  Lombard 
style,  support  continued  architraves, 
the  whole  surmounted  by  a  drum  of 
as  many  pilasters.  There  are  3  portals, 
aU  very  elegant  and  covered  with  sculp- 
tures ;  round  the  base  of  the  tower  is  a 
band  of  sculptures  in  high  relief  of  real 
and  fabulous  animals,  dogs,  bears, 
hons,  centaurs,  sphinxes,  grifibns,  &c. 
The  interior  has  16  sides,  from  which 
spring  converging  ribs  that  form  a 
pointed  dome.  In  the  centre  stands  a 
very  large  octagonal  font,  cut  out  from 
one  block  of  yellowish-red  marble.  It 
appears  from  an  inscription  cut  on 
the  rim  that  this  font  was  made  by 
Johannes  Pallassonus  in  1298.  In  one 
comer  of  the  building  is  a  smaller  font 
(or,  at  least,  what  is  now  used  as  such), 
covered  with  Runic  foliage  and  strange 
animals ;  it  stands  upon  a  Hon  setting 
his  paws  upon  a  ram.  All  the  children 
bom  in  Parma  are  still  brought  here 
for  baptism.  The  baptistery  is  a 
collegiate  church,  having  a  chapter 
of  six  canons  and  a  provost,  besides 
inferior  officers;  its  registers  go  back 
to  1459.  The  vault  is  Hghted  by  24 
windows,  the  intervals  covered  with 
paintings  supposed  to  have  been  exe- 
cuted soon  after  its  completion  or 
early  in  the  13th  centy.,  whilst  those 
of  the  niches  below  are  of  a  later  date, 


446 


BcMe  40. — Parma — San  Giovarm. 


Sect.  v. 


as  they  bear  the  names  of  Nicolo  da 
Meggio  and  Bartolino  da  J^iacenza^ 
who  lived  towards  the  middle  and  end 
of  the  14th.  These  paintings,  arranged 
in  rows  or  compartments,  represent 
the  12  Apostles,  and  the  symbols  of 
the  Evangelists :  in  the  second  row 
the  Saviour  in  the  act  of  benediction ; 
the  Virgin  in  a  blue  mantle,  with  the 
Prophets;  scenes  in  the  history  of 
St.  John  the  Baptist ;  various  Saints 
and  Prophets :  in  the  niche?  Prophets 
and  Saints  :  and  in  the  lower  row  his- 
tories of  St.  John  the  Baptist,  especially 
the  Baptism  of  Our  Lord,  and  sub- 
jects from  the  life  of  Christ.  Many  of 
these  paintings  display  a  vivid  colour- 
ing and  a  vehemence  of  action  often 
carried  to  exaggeration.  The  stalls, 
of  inlaid  work,  were  made  by  Bernar- 
dino Canoccio  in  1493. 

The  Church  and  Convent  of  San 
Giovanni  Svangelista,  immediately  be- 
hind the  Duomo,  attached  to  a  very 
extensive  Benedictine  monastery  which 
dates  from  the  10th  centy.  The  in- 
terior was  designed  by  one  Zaccagni, 
a  native  architect,  and  begun  in  1510  : 
the  exterior  is  nearly  a  centy.  later 
(1607),  by  Simone  Moschino  of  Orvieto : 
the  design  is  good  and  striking.  The 
interior  consists  of  a  long  nave  and 
aisles,  supported  by  fluted  pilasters 
with  Ionic  capitals.  The  dark  paint- 
ings on  the  vault  give  it  a  heavy  look, 
which  it  has  not  in  reality.  The 
ch.  contains  frescoes  on  the  cupola  by 
Correggioy  now  damaged  and  obscured 
by  damp  and  smoke,  representing  a 
vision  of  St.  John.  He,  in  extreme 
old  age,  and  the  last  surviving  apostle, 
beholds,  in  a  moment  of  extaoy,  his 
companions  in  heaven,  who  form  a 
circle  around  their  Divine  Master  re- 
splendent in  glory.  The  saint  is  alone 
upon  the  earth,  and  is  depicted  below 
all  the  others  at  the  extreme  edge  of 
the  cupola.  He  kneels  upon  a  rock, 
his  arms  leaning  on  a  book,  which  is 
supported  by  a  number  of  boys,  of 
whom  the  very  clouds  are  full.  Each 
of  the  4  pendentives  has  on  it  an  Evan- 
gclist,  with  A  Doctor  of  the  Chmrch, 


viz.  St.  John  with  St.  Augustine  ;   St. 
Matthew  with  St.  Jerome ;  St.  Mark 
with  St.  Gregory;  St.  Luke  with  St. 
Ambrose;    all  seated  in  various   atti- 
tudes u^on  clouds,  and  supported  by 
graceful    children.      This  is  a  much 
smaller  work  than  that  of  the  Duomo, 
and   painted   some  time    before,    be- 
tween 1520  and  1524,  when  Correggio 
was  only  26  years  of  age.    The  style  is 
extremely  large,  and  the  finish  more 
complete  than  in  that  of  the  Duomo. 
The  figures  in  the  angles   are   much 
injured    by   the    peeling    off   of    the 
plaster :  some  parts  appear  very  fine. 
The  heads  and  expression  of  the  saints 
in  the  group  below  are  more  complete 
and  appropriate  than  in  those  oi  the 
Duomo.     Correggio  also    painted  the 
tribune  behind  the  choir.     When  the 
church  was  enlarged  in  1584  the  monks 
thought  that  the  frescoes  could  be  de- 
tached, but  they  crumbled  and  broke  in 
the  operation.     On  that  occasion  was 
procured  the  fragment  of  the  Corona- 
tion of  the  Virgin,  now  preserved  in 
the  Library.    A  copy  made  by  Aretusi 
in  some  measure  replaces  the  origioal, 
whilst   a  more  accurate  one   still  by 
An.  Caracci  may  be  seen  in  the  Pina- 
coteca.     By  Correggio  also  is  a   small 
fresco  of  St.  John  writing  his  Grospel. 
It  is  over  a  door  opening  out  of  the 
1.  hand  transept  into  the  monasteiy. 
The   other  works   of  art  here  are  — 
in    2nd    chapel    on    rt.,    the    Virgin 
and  St.   Joseph  in  Adoration  before 
the  infant  Saviour,  by  G.  Fraihcia;  the 
figure  of  the  Virgin  adoring  the  Infant 
Saviour  is  good,  it  has  been  much  re- 
stored, and  is  badly  seen,  so  is  one  of 
the  shepherds  stretching  forth  both  arms 
as  he  hears  the  song  of  the  Angels.    In 
.the  4th  chapel,  a  fine  altarpiece  of  St. 
James  at  the  feet  of  the  Virgin,  by  Qir, 
Mazzola.    In  the  5th,  frescoes  by  An- 
sehni  on  the  roof,  much  restored.    The 
Transfiguration,  at  the  extremity  of  the 
choir,  is  by  Pannigianino.    The  Christ 
on  the  Cross,  in  the  6th  chapel,  is  by 
Anselmi.     In  the  5th  chapel  on  1.  a 
bad  copy  of  Correggio' s   St.   Jerome. 
In  the  4th,  the  Virgin  ofiering  a  palm* 
branch  to  St.  Catherine  and  St.  Kicho' 


Pabma. 


Route  40. — Parma — Ma.  delta  Steccata. 


447 


las,  by  Parmigicmino,  In  the  2nd,  S. 
Gheorge  and  2  saints  over  the  arch. 
And  m  the  1st  on  the  1.  on  entering 
the  church,  2  frescoes  on  the  arches  of 
Sta,  Luda  and  Sta.  Apollonia  before  the 
Yirgin,  by  the  same.  The  arabesque 
paintings  on  the  vault  of  the  nave  are 
by  Anselmi. 

The  monastery,  suppressed  by  the 
French,  "vr as  restored  some  years  ago  to 
the  Benedictines.  It  is  a  stately  build- 
ing, containing  three  very  handsome 
quadrangles,  surrounded  by  cloisters. 
The  outer  walls  were  adorned  with 
jfrescoes,  which  have  all  but  disap- 
peared from  the  effect  either  of  time 
or  of  violence.  The  interior  is  fine :  it 
is  traversed  by  4  long  galleries,  which 
in  the  form  of  a  cross  unite  in  the 
centre.  At  the  point  of  junction  are 
4  statues  in  terra-cotta,  executed  by 
Antonio  Begarelli,  of  Modena.  The 
sculptured  arabesques  on  their  pedestals 
and  those  on  the  door  of  the  chapter- 
house are  by  Agresti.  The  greater 
part  of  the  conventual  buildings  are 
now  tenanted  by  soldiers.  The  Cam- 
panilcy  the  highest  in  Parma,  and  wliich 
is  detached  from  the  church,  was 
erected  in  1614.  It  is  a  fine  edifice  of 
the  kind;  square  below,  it  is  sur- 
mounted by  an  octagonal  lantern  and 
belfry,  and  a  gallery,  from  which  there 
is  an  extensive  view  over  the  surround- 
ing country, 

Ch.  of  the  Madonna  delta  Steccatay 
in  the  street  leading  from  the  Piazza 
G^rande  to  the  Ducal  Palace,  begun 
about  1521,  from  the  designs  of  Fran- 
cesco Zacca^ni.  A  figure  of  the  Yirgin 
painted  on  the  wall  of  a  house  first 
attracted  the  devotion  of  the  people 
of  Parma ;  and  from  a  palisade  {Stec- 
cato)  built  round  it,  it  acquired  the 
name  of  the  Steccata.  The  present 
church,  which  stands  on  the  site  of  an 
oratory,  to  which  the  miraculous  pic- 
ture had  been  removed,  is  in  the  form  of 
a  G-reek  cross,  with  a  semicircular  apse 
at  the  extremity  of  each  branch.  In  each 
of  the  angles  of  the  arms  of  the  cross  are 
smaller  chapels.  The  chief  paintings 
ere  by  I^armigianino  t  Moses  breaking 


the  Tables  of  the  Law,  Adam  and  Eve, 
and  the  Sibyls,  and  the  Virtues  over 
the  organ.      The   Moses,   and  Adam 
and  Eve,  which  are  executed  in  chiar'- 
oscuro   on    the    soffit   of   the    arches 
which  form  the  entrance  to  the  choir, 
have  become  so  dark  that  it  is  difficult 
to   see  them;    but  the  merit  of  the 
Moses  has  always  been  considered  very 
great.   "Parmigianino,  when  he  painted 
the  Moses,  had  so  completely  supphed 
his  first  defects,  that  we  are  here  at  a 
loss  which  to  admire  most,  the  correct- 
ness of  drawing  or  the  grandeur  of  con- 
ception.    As  a  confirmation  of  its  great 
excellence,  and  of  the  impression  which 
it  leaves  on  the  minds  of  elegant  spec- 
tators, I  may  observe,  that  our  great 
lyric  poet  [Gray],  when  he  conceived 
his  sublime  idea  of  the  indignant  Welsh 
bard,  acknowledged  that,  though  many 
years  had  intervened,  he  had  warmed 
his  imagination  with  the  remembrance 
of  this  noble  figure  of  Parmigianino." — 
Sir  J.  Reynolds.   Parmigianino  was  em- 
ployed by  the  Fraternity  of  the  Annun- 
ciation, to  whom  the  church  then  be- 
longed, and  by  whom  he  was  engaged 
at  weekly  wages.     He  was  at  this  time 
much  addicted  to  alchemy,  to  which  he 
gave  his  time  when  he  should  have 
been  employed  at  his  work.     His  em- 
ployers  first  warned    him  that   such 
conduct  would  not  do  :  then  they  sued 
him  at  law,  and  he  ran  away,  and  died 
soon  afterwards   (Aug.  24,   1540),   of 
trouble  and  vexation,  in  the  ^th  year 
of  his  age.     Upon  his  death,  Anselmi 
was  called  in,  some  say  at  the  instance 
and    under    the  directions  of    Giulio 
Romano.     AnselmVs  principal  painting 
here  is  a  Coronation  of  the  Virgin  on 
the-  vaidt   over  the    high-altar.     The 
interior  of  the  cupola,  by   Sojaro   or 
Gatti,  represents  the  Assumption,  for 
which  he  was  paid  1400  golden  scudi 
in  1566.  It  is  an  imitation  of  Correggio. 
By  Oirolamo  Mazzola  are  the  frescoes 
of  the  Nativity,  and  of  the  Descent  of 
the  Holy  Ghost,  in  the  chapels  on  rt. 
and  1.  of  the  high  altar :  a  picture  of 
the  Madonna  and  Child  between   St. 
John  the  Baptist  and  St.  Luke  is  good, 
and  attributed  to  Francia>    There  are 


448 


Bcmte  40.= — Parma — San  Lodomco. 


Sect.  V. 


some  good  sepulchral  monuments  here. 
In  the  chapels  of  St.  Thomas  and  St. 
Paul  are  those  of  Sforzino  Sforza,  son 
of  Francesco  Sforza  II.  (died  1523), 
sleeping  in  death,  his  head  resting 
on  his  helmet,  by  Aerate,  and  of  Otta- 
vio  Famese  (died  1567),  by  Briant%  a 
fine  bust.  Count  Ghiido  da  Correggio, 
a  full-length  statue,  rising  above  a  sar- 
cophagus of  yellow  marble,  executed  by 
Barbiefiy  about  1568.  In  the  S.  arm 
of  the  cross  or  chapel  over  the  sitar,  in 
which  there  is  a  krge  painting  of  St. 
Gteorge  by  FrancescMni,  has  been 
placed  a  memorial  to  the  Duchess 
Maria  Louisa,  consisting  of  a  group  of 
the  Dead  Christ,  by  JSondon%  a  native 
artist,  and  at  the  expense  of  the  city. 
In  the  vaults  beneath  the  church  are 
the  sepulchres  of  the  dukes  of  the 
house  of  Bourbon,  and  of  some  of  their 
Famese  predecessors.  The  most  inte- 
resting is  that  of  Duke  Alessandro;  his 
name,  Alexander^  only  appears  upon 
the  sarcophagus,  upon  which  are  lying 
his  helmet  and  his  long-bladed  Spanish 
rapier.  The  remains  of  the  other  princes 
are  in  vaults  bricked  up  in  the  wall,  a 
marble  tablet  recording  the  name  of 
each.  A  small  vault  with  a  grated 
door  contains  the  heart  of  the  last  sove- 
reign, placed  in  a  little  box,  on  a  table. 
In  the  same  street,  and  nearly  opposite 
the  Madonna  della  Steccata,  is  the  ch.  of 

8an^  AlessandrOy  which  dates  from 
1625,  having  been  erected  on  the  site  of 
a  ch.  or  the  9th  centy.  by  Margaret 
daughter  ot  Alessandro  Famese,  and 
from  the  designs  of  Magnani.  It  con- 
sists in  the  interior  of  3  divisions,  sepa- 
rated by  handsome  Ionic  columns  of 
red  Verona  marble.  The  architectural 
views  on  the  roof  are  by  M.  A.  Coloima ; 
and  the  cupola,  on  which  is  repre- 
sented Christ  conducting  the  Virgin  to 
heaven,  by  Tiarini.  The  painting  over 
the  high  altar,  of  the  Virgin  giving  the 
palm  of  Martyrdom  to  Sta.  Justina,  is 
by  Parmigiamno ;  the  St.  Bertoldo  in 
the  2nd  chapel  on  rt.  is  by  Tiarini, 

Following  the  same  street,  passing 
the  theatre,  we  soon  arrive  at  the  Piazza 
di  Corte,  near  which,  in  a  narrow  one 
on  the  rt.,  stands  the 


Ch.  of  San  Lodomco^  formerly  at- 
tached to  a  monastery  of  Benedictine 
nuns,  restored  of  late  years  for  pur- 
poses of  education  to  the  Jesuitical 
female  order  of  the  Sacre  CoBur,  re- 
cently suppressed.  The  ch.  and  build- 
ings are  not  remarkable:  the  great 
object  of  attraction  is  the  "  Ca/mera 
di  San  Paolo"  painted  by  Correggio 
about  the  year  1519,  in  the  Parloir  of 
the  adjoining  convent,  by  order  of  the 
Abbess,  GHovanna  di  Piacenza  (the  keys 
are  kept  at  the  Picture  Gallery).  It 
represents,  over  the  chimney-piece,  a 
grotto  of  Diana,  beneath  the  level  of 
the  ground,  covered  with  a  roof  of 
foHage,  having  16  oval  apertures  cor- 
responding in  number  with  the  spaces 
interposed  between  the  sections  of  the 
vaulted  roof.  In  each  of  these  ovals 
children  are  seen  peeping  in  and  out 
as  they  pass  around  the  grotto.  The 
composition  is  varied  in  each  of  the 
ovals.  They  bear  various  symbols  or 
attributes  of  the  goddess,  and  imple- 
ments of  the  chace.  Under  these 
medallions  are  16  lunettes  containing 
mythological  subjects  in  chiar*-oscuro, 
— The  Three  Fates  ;  the  Suspension  of 
Juno  ;  Bacchus  nursed  by  Leucothea- 
Lucina ;  Ceres ;  a  group  of  Satyrs ; 
Endymion  and  Adonis ;  Minerva  ;  the 
Graces;  and  the  like.  Round  the 
apartment  runs  an  elegant  frieze.  On 
one  side  of  the  chamber  is  a  projecting 
chimney,  on  which  is  painted  Diana 
throwing  off  her  veil  as  she  mounts  a 
car  drawn  by  stags ;  these  latter  now 
effaced.  An  adjoining  chamber,  very 
similar  in  form,  is  painted  by  Ales- 
sandro  Araldi,  principally  with  groups 
of  figures.  In  the  3  lunettes  over  each 
wall  are  different  profane  and  Chris- 
tian subjects.  The  roof  is  covered  with 
very  handsome  arabesques,  interspersed 
with  portraits  and  small  medallions; 
on  the  chimney  are  the  arms  of  the 
abbess  (3  half-moons),  which  are  fre- 
quently introduced  into  the  paintings 
here  by  Araldi  and  Correggio. 

At  the  time  when  Giovanna 
lived  great  irregularities  prevailed  in 
the  more  opulent  nunneries.  The 
abbesses,   even    when    untainted    by 


Parma. 


Bovte  ^O.-^Parma — Farnese  Fdhce. 


449 


grosser  vices,  indulged,  without  the 
least  restraint,  in  the  gaieties  and 
pleasures  of  the  world,  setting  at 
nought  all  ecclesiastical  discipline. 
The  Vatican  was,  however,  alarmed 
by  the  progress  of  the  Reformation'; 
and,  under  the  rigid  Adrian  YI., 
the  nuns  were  commanded  to  ob- 
serve the  vows  which  they  had 
made;  disorders  in  the  conventual 
establishments  were  reformed ;  the 
doors  of  San  Paolo  were  closed,  and 
the  poor  abbess  died  within  a  month 
afterwards.  The  paintings  remained 
almost  forgotten  until  about  the  year 
1795,  when  the  duke  caused  them  to 
be  examined,  and  a  dissertation  £(*om 
the  Padre  OfFo  brought  them  out  of 
their  seclusion.  In  the  church  of  S. 
Lodovico  is  the  sepulchral  monument 
to  Count  Niepperg,  the  second  husband 
of  Maria  Louisa,  by  BartoHni  of  Flor- 
ence. 

Several  ancient  churches  were  demo- 
lished during  the  French  occupation. 
Those  which  remain  are   principally 
modem  or  modernised  :  a  few  may  be 
noticed.   S,  Andrea  has  a  painting  of  S. 
Bernardo  by  Sebastian  Corica.     S.  8e- 
polcrOfHeajc  thePortaS.  Michele,  leading 
towards  Modena,  a  Madonna  and  Saints, 
in  Ist  chapel  on  rt.,  by  Parmigianino 
(the    celebrated  picture  of   the    Ma- 
donna della  Scodella  was  formerly  in 
this   church).     S.  Tomasso,  over  the 
high  altar,  the  Nativity,  by  Alessandro 
Mazzola.    8.  Uldarico,  a  very  ancient 
conventual  foundation   on  the  site  of 
the  Roman  theatre,  the  Nativity  over 
the  principal  altar,  by  Gir.  Mazzola,   In 
the  Ch.  of  the  SS.  Annunziata,  beyond 
the  bridge,  founded  by  Ottavio  Famese, 
is  a  half-ruined  fresco  of  the  Annuncia- 
tion, by  Correggio,  brought  from  a  de- 
secrated edifice.     It  has  been  engraved 
in  Toschi's   collection.     The  painting 
opposite  to  it,  of  the  Madonna,  with  St. 
John  the  Evangelist,  St.  Bernard,  and 
St.  Francis,  is  by  Marchesi  da  Coti- 
gnola,  and  highly  prized  by  Lanzi. 

The  ancient  Farnese  Palace,  called 
also  La  Pilotta,  and  the  bmldings 
connected  with  it,  form  a  somewhat 
gloomy  and    rambling    pile  of  great 


extent.  One  portion  includes  a  coftile 
of  fine  proportions,  but  unfinished.  It 
was  begun  by  Ranuccio  Famese  I.,  in 
1597,  and  then  adjoined  the  fine  church 
of  San  Pietro  Martire,  which  was  pulled 
down  to  enlarge  the  cortile. 

Entering  under  the  gateway  of  the 
palace,  by  which  passes  the  road  to  the 
bridge,  and  ascending  the  wide  staircase, 
a  rich  heavy  portal  is  seen  in  front.  This 
is  the  entrance  to  the  Teatro  Famesey 
bmlt,  in  1618,  by  Duke  Ranuccio,  and 
opened  in  1628,  upon  occasion  of  the 
marriage  of  Duke  Odoardo  with  the 
Princess  Margaret  of  Tuscany.  It  is 
said  to  be  the  first  theatre  in  which 
boxes  as  we  bmld  them  w^ere  introduced. 
The  whole  is  of  wood;  and,  though 
some  effort  has  been  made  to  keep  it 
in  repair,  it  is  in  a  most  dilapidated 
state,  and  seems  rapidly  verging  to 
complete  ruin.  The  light  shines 
through  the  rafters  above,  and  the 
decayed  floors  are  giving  way  below. 

To  the  1.  of  the  theatre  are  the 
apartments  of  the  Reale  Accadenda  di 
Belle  Artiy  founded  in  1752.  After 
many  changes  the  Academy  was  re- 
established in  1822.  It  is  now  almost 
exclusively  dedicated  to  the  fine  arts. 
Of  this  establishment  the  Oalleria 
or  Pinacoteca  forms  a  portion.  The 
collection  contains  nearly  600  pictures, 
several  of  the  highest  importance. 

The  Pinacoteca  occupies  a  series  of 
14  rooms  or  divisions,  as  will  be  seen 
on  reference  to  the  annexed  plan  made 
on  the  spot  in  June  of  the  present  year. 

There  is  no  catalogue,  nor  Nos.  on  the 
pictures,  nor  any  indication  of  the  sub- 
jects they  represent,  although  the  name 
of  the  painter  is  generally  attached  to 
each. 

Entering  from  the  great  staircase,  a 
vestibule  or  kind  of  anteroom  (I.)  con- 
tains some  modem  works  oi  Parma 
artists  of  very  little  interest.  This 
hall  opens  into  the  Great  Gallery 
(II.  to  VI.),  divided  off" into  5  portions : 
here  are  some  of  the  very  fine  works 
of  the  Pinacoteca.  In  the  1st  divi- 
sion (II.)  are  the  oldest  paintings.  A 
Madonna  with  St.  Catherine,  attri- 
buted to  iMca  da  Parma.    A  Virgin 


460 


Houte  40. — Parma — Pinacoteca, 


Sect.  V. 


QEOUND  PLAN  OF  THE  PINAOOTECA  AT  PAEMA. 


y\ 


o 
o 


o 
o 


IV 


I.    Ante-room. 

tf, '  i  Great  Gallcrr,  of  which 
YI  I     III.  Oval  Hall. 

vir! 

VIII.  Council-room. 

IX.  Madonna  della  Scodella. 

X.  ToBchi'a  Drawings. 

XI.  Corr^ggio**  St.  Jerome. 


XTI.    Toerhi*B  Drawing!. 

X I v'  I S™''^^  Picture*. 
XV.    Drawings  of  Old  Masten 


a.  Entrance  to  Galleria. 

b.  Statue  of  Maria  Louisa. 
e.  "I  Statues  in  Basalt  of 
d.  /  Hercules  and  Bacchus. 


enthroned,  hjJacopo  da  JJuschi  (1471). 
Two  similar  subjects,  by  Tem/perello 
(1499).  A  good  Annunciation,  \)j  A. 
Araldi.  Correggio^s  fine  fresco  of  the 
Virgin,  called  La  Madonna  della  Scala, 
painted  originally  over  the  town  gate 
of  San  Michele.  A  Yirgin  and  Child 
with  St.  Jerome  and  St.  Benedict,  by 
Parmigianino.  Several  paintings  by 
Gir.  Mazzola  and  Anselmi,  excellent 
specimens  of  the  school  of  Parma. 
And  a  Madonna  and  Child  with  San 
Bruno,  by  Fran.  Qatti. 

In  the  Oval  HaU  (III.)  that  follows 
are  some  works  of  modem  artists  of  no 
great  interest,  but  in  which  have  been 
placed  two  colossal  statues  in  green  or 
Ethiopian  basalt — one  of  Hercules,  the 
other  of  Bacchus  and  Pan;  they  are 
perhaps  the  largest  specimens  known  of 
this  very  hard  and  rare  material,  and 
in  a  good  style  of  art.  They  were  dis- 
covered in  the  17th  centy.in  the  gardens 
of  the  Palatine  at  Rome,  then  the  pro- 
perty of  the  ruling  family  of  P.arma,  the 
Farneseji.  There  is  some  resemblance 
to  Hadrian  in  the  face  of  the  Hercules, 
as  there  is  in  that  of  Bacchus  to 
Antinous.  Bound  this  Oval  Hall 
are  eight  senatorial  statues,  more  or 
less  mutilated,  and  in  white  marble 
from  the  ruins  of  Velleia. — Room  lY. 
contains  some  of  the  chefs- d'oBuvre  of 
this  part  of  the  gallery.  The  San 
ViTAiiE  MADONi^A,and  the  Deposition, 


by  F.  Francia ;  the  first,  a  lovely  pic- 
ture, represents  the  Virgin  and  Child 
seated  on  a  throne,  with  SS.  Bene- 
dict, Placidus,  Justina,  and  Scolastica 
on  either  side,  with  the  infant  St.  John 
in  the  foreground ;  it  is  dated  1515, 
and  long  ■  belonged  to  the  San  Vitale 
family.  The  Deposition  represents  the 
Dead  Saviour  on  the  knees  of  the  Vir- 
gin, surrounded  by  saints ;  it  is  signed, 
but  not  dated.  The  other  remarkable 
works  here  are  JJudovico  CaraccVs 
large  subjects  of  the  Virgin  carried  to 
the  tomb,  and  the  latter  found  empty 
by  the  Apostles.  The  Dead  Christ,  by 
An.  Caracci,  A  series  of  sii  copies  of 
Correggio's  magnificent  frescoes  in  the 
ch.  of  S.  Q-iovanni,  including  the  justly 
celebrated  Coronation  of  the  Virgin, 
by  Ag.  Carracci.  An  Adoration  of  the 
Magi,  by  Oir.  Mazzola.  A  Madonna 
and  Child,  by  Ouercino ;  and  a  good 
Descent  from  the  Cross,  by  Schidone. 
The  last  division  of  the  Great  Gkllery 
{Room  VI.)  contains  CanovicCs  sitting 
statue  of  Maria  Louisa,  as  Concord; 
a  curious  St.  Sebastian,  by  Josephat 
Aldis;  two  very  fine  Holy  FanuUes, 
by  Oima  da  Conegliano,  both  signed 
by  the  painter.  The  Apparition  of 
the  Angel  to  the  Apostles,  by  Bassano; 
a  small  Annunciation,  by  Albano  ;  se- 
veral Heads  by  Spagnoletto,  &c. 

Returning  to  the  Oval  Hall  (III.),  a 
door  leads  from  it  into  a  series   of 


Parma. 


Moute  40. — Parma — Pinacoteca. 


451 


smaller  rooms  on  the  side  of  the  river. 
In  the  first  (YII>)  are  some  small  genre 
paintings  by  Tempesta,   Vieray  Cana- 
letti,  &c.    In  the  second  (VIII.),  where 
the  Council  of  the  Academy  hold  their 
meetings,   are    several  portraits  : — an 
Erasmus,  by  Holbein;  Benvenuto  Cel- 
lini, by  G.  C.  Amidoni ;   Ag.  Caracci, 
by  himself;    Alessandro  Famese  and 
his  Wife,  by  Qir.  Mazzola;  Petrach, 
by  An.  Caracci-^   Correggio,  Parmigi- 
anino,  &c.     From  here  we  pass  to  the 
first  room  of  Correggio' s  chefs-d'oeuvre 
(IX.),  the  Sail  of  the  Madonna  delta 
Scodella,     A  Flight  into  Egypt,   de- 
riving  its  name  from  the  scodella — 
the  small  dish  or  bowl  which  the  Virgin 
holds  in  her  hand,  the  armorial  bear- 
ings of  the  Scutellari  or  Scodellaris,  for 
one  9f  whom  it  was  painted.  Vasari  calls 
this  picture  "  divine."     Beyond  this  is 
a  kind  of  passage  room  (X.),  hung  with 
elaborate  drawings  of  some  of  Correg- 
gio's  great  works   in  Parma.      They 
were  made  by  Toschi  and  his  pupils 
for  the  purpose  of  being  engraved,  and 
which  the  traveller  wiU  do  well  to  study 
here  at  his  ease,  before  doing  so  on  the 
originals,  so  much  injured  and  effaced. 
From  here  we  enter  the  Sail  of  the 
St.  Jerome  (XI.),  hung,  like  that  of 
the  Madonna  della  Scodella,  in  green 
silk,   with  the  letters  A  A  (Antonio 
Allegri)  worked  into  it.   The  celebrated 
picture  called  the   St,  Jerome  is  the 
only  one  here.    It  bears  the  name  of 
St.    Jerome    in    consequence    of    his 
being  the  most  remarkable  figure  in 
the   group,    of  which  the    centre  is 
formed  by  the  Madonna  and   Child; 
St.   Mary  Magdalen    is    opposite    to 
St.   Jerome,  kissing  the  feet   of   the 
Infent.      The    history    of    this    fine 
painting  is  curious.      It  was  ordered 
by  a  widow  lady,    Briseis  Bergonzi, 
who,  in  her  contract  with  Correggio, 
made  her  stipulations  as  to  what  she 
was  to  have  for  her  money  with  the 
utmost  minuteness.    GThe  price  was  47 
sequins — about   22L      Correggio  was 
employed  during  six  months   in  the 
widow^s  house   painting  the  picture, 
and,  when  it  was  finished,  she  was  so 
well  satisfied  with  it  that  she  gave 


him,  besides  Ms  board,  two  cartloads 
of  faggots,  a  quantity  of  wheat,  and  a 
pig.  The  widow  bestowed  the  painting 
upon  the  Convent  of  St.  Anthony  at 
Parma  in  1527 ;  and  it  speedily  ac- 
quired an  European  reputation,  so 
much  so,  that  Don  John  V.  of  Por- 
tugal in  1549  opened  a  negotiation 
with  the  convent  for  the  purchase  of 
the  painting,  offering,  as  it  is  said,  as 
much  as  460,000  frs.,  a  sum  which 
appears  incredible.  The  magistrates 
of  Parma,  hearing  of  the  intended  con- 
tract, and  fearing  lest  their  city  should 
lose  its  treasure,  gave  notice  to  the 
duke,  and  he  stopped  the  bargain  by 
removing  the  picture  and  placing  it  in 
the  cathedral.  Here  it  continued  till 
1756,  when  one  M.  Jollain,  a  French 
painter,  obtained  an  order  from  the  then 
reigning  duke,  the  Infant  Don  Philip, 
to  make  a  copy  of  it.  The  chapter 
made  some  difficulties,  upon  which  the 
duke  sent  a  file  of  grenadiers  and  re- 
moved it,  and  after  a  lapse  of  a  year 
placed  it  in  his  newly-founded  Aca- 
demy, paying  at  the  same  time  the 
Prior  of  S.  Antonio  1500  sequins  in 
compensation.  It  was  one  of  the 
earliest  works  of  art  carried  off  by 
the  French.  The  Virgin  is  lovely; 
gentleness  and  entire  devotion  reign 
throughout  her  figure;  but  the  clul- 
dren's  heads  are  sUghtly  exaggerated. 
The  colouring  is  exquisite.  "The  Angel 
next  to  St.  Jerome  is  extremely  beauti- 
ful ;  other  portions  are,  however,  not 
quite  free  from  affectation." — Kugler. 
The  Italian  writers  upon  art  often  call 
this  picture  "J^  OiomOy"  from  the 
wonderfLd  effect  of  bright  daylight 
which  it  exhibits,  thus  placing  it  in 
contrast  with  his  celebrated  Notte^ 
above  which  it  is  placed  by  Mengs, 
who  considered  it  as  the  finest  of  Cor- 
reggio's  works. 

Another  room  (XII.),  containing 
Toschi' 8  drawings  of  the  Correggios 
in  the  Camera  di  San  Paolo  and  in  the 
ch.  of  S.  Giovanni,  leads  to  Boom  XIII., 
which  contains  Eaphael's  Jesus 
GtLOEIFIED,  the  Virgin  and  St.  Paul  on 
one  side,  St,  John  the  Baptist  and  St. 
Catherine  on  the  other.    It  was  much 


452 


Eovte  40. — Parma — Library. 


Sect.  V, 


restored  at  Paris,  and  Fassavant  speaks 
very  doubtfully  of  its  originality.  Its 
early  history  is  quite  unknown,  and  it 
cannot  b^  traced  beyond  the  last  cen- 
tury. Fassavant  thinks  it  is  the  work 
of  some  clever  scholar  <Jf  Baphael. 
Correggio^s  Martyrdom  of  SS.  Flavia 
and  FlaciduB,  and  its  pendant  the 
Dead  Christ  with  the  two  Marys  and 
St.  Joseph  of  Arimathea.  Agostino 
Caracci,  a  Madonna  with  three  Saints. 
Parmigianino,  the  Marriage  of  St. 
Catherine.  Franciaf  a  lovely  Holy 
Family  with  St.  John.  Leon,  da  Vindy 
a  bold  sketch  of  a  female  head.  And 
CorreggiOy  a  portrait  of  an  Egyptian  (?). 
In  Moom  XIV.  are  several  small  paint- 
ings, of  which  the  most  worthy  of  notice 
are — Mantegna^  the  Martyrdom  of  St. 
Sebastian.  JBonifacio,  a  Holy  Family. 
F.  JSarocciOy  St.  Francis.  Three  small 
subjects  by  Garqfalo,  In  the  next 
Hoom  (XV.)  are  several  original  draw- 
ings by  masters  of  the  Farma  school, 
especially  the  Mazzolas. 

The  Bihlioteca  or  Librarg,  founded 
by  Duke  Fhilip  of  Bourbon  in  1769,  is 
said  to  contain  140,000  vols.  It  posses- 
ses the  very  valuable  Hebrew  and  Syriac 
manuscripts  of  De  Bossi,  an  eminent 
Oriental  scholar,  bought  by  Maria 
Louisa  for  100,000  frs.,  as  well  as  his 
printed  books.  It  is  altogether  well 
selected,  and  is  much  frequented  by 
readers.  Amongst  the  literary  curio- 
sities are  —  Luther's  Hebrew  Fsalter, 
with  many  autograph  notes  of  the 
great  reformer;^  evidently  the  copy 
from  which  he  worked  in  making  his 
translation  of  the  Bible.  A  very  beau- 
tiful MS.  of  Petrarch,  which  belonged 
to  Francis  I.,  and  was  found  amongst 
his  baggage  at  the  battle  of  Pavia.  The 
autograph  collections  of  the  great  ana- 
tomist Morgagni.  A  map  of  the  world 
made  by  Fizzicagni  in  1367.  The 
Koran  found  in  the  tent  of  the  Grand 
Vizier  Kara  Mustapha,  after  the  raising 
of  the  siege  of  Vienna.  A  MS.  on  the 
purity  of  the  Virgin,  of  the  15th  centy., 
with  miniatures.  The  Kewrea  which 
belonged  to  Henry  II.  of  France,  in 
each  page  of  which  is  the  emblem 
of    Diana    of   Foictiers.      Autograph 


letters  from  Voltaire,  Qtklileo,  Prince 
Eugene  of  Savoy,  Emanuel  Philibert, 
and  of  Q-eneral  Bonaparte  to  the  Duke 
of  Farma.  The  Library  is  fitted  up 
with  elegance,  and  is  kept  in  adniirable 
order  for  cleanliness  and  efficiency.  In 
its  second  great  hall  is  the  fresco  of  the 
Incoronatay  painted  by  CorreggiOy  and 
removed  from  the  demolished  tribune 
in  the  church  of  San  Giovanni :  it  re- 
presents our  Saviour  placing  on  the 
head  of  the  Virgin  a  crown  of  stars.  In 
a  room  opening  out  of  the  first  hall  are 
preserved  the  matrices  of  all  Bodoni's 
types,  52,000  in  number;  and  in  an- 
other hall  of  the  Library,  a  series  of 
modem  paintings- of  different  episodes 
from  the  Divina  Commedia,  by  Scara- 
muzza,  a  Parmesan  painter.  Attached 
to  the  Library  is  the  rich  collection  of 
engravings,  said  to  contain  85,000'8pe- 
cimens,  of  which  a  large  proportion 
(60,000)  were  purchased  of  Massimi- 
Uano  Ortalli,  a  few  years  ago,  by  Maria 
Louisa,  for  45,000  francs. 

The  Musernn  of  Antiquities^  formerly 
called  the  Museo  Ducate^  is  entered 
from  the  first  landing-place  on  the 
great  staircase.  It  has  been  formed 
principally  by  objects  brought  from 
B>ome  by  the  Famese  Princes,  by  seve- 
ral discovered  at  Velleia  in  the  last 
century,  and  by  some  found  amongst 
the  ruins  of  Boman  Parma.  Like  the 
Pinacoteca  and  the  Library  above,  it 
is  open  to  visitors  daily  from  10  a.m:. 
imtil  3  P.M.  It  consists  of  four  rooms. 
In  the  first  are  numerous  Boman  in- 
scriptions :  one  dedicated  by  the  Mes- 
publica  Velleiata  to  a  certain  Procon- 
sul CoBlius  Festus,  its  benefactor,  is 
locally  interesting.  The  Signa  Tegu- 
laria,  or  inscriptions  in  reUef  on 
bricks,  are  numerous  :  one  of  A.ir.c. 
685  records  the  names  of  the  Consuls, 
Q.  Hortensius  and  Quintus  Coelius. 
Moom  II.  contains  chiefly  bronzes, 
many  from  Velleia,  the  most  im- 
portant being  the  great  Tabula  Aliment 
taria  of  Trajan,  or  the  decree  for 
the  distribution  of  his  gifts  towards 
the  maintenance  of  the  children  of  the 
poor.  He  gives  the  sum  of  1,144,000 
sesterces,  to  be  invested  in  lands,  of 


Parma*  itotde  40. — Parma — Museum  df  Antiquities. 


4^3 


which  the  proceeds  are  to  be  em- 
ployed in  maintaining  245  males  and 
45  females,  all  to  be  legitimate,  toge- 
ther with  one  spttrius  and  one  spuriay 
a  proof  how  much  the  Roman  poUcy, 
even  at  that  period,  respected  the 
sanctity  of  marriage;  every  boy  was 
to  receive  16  sesterces  by  month, 
and  every  girl  12,  but  the  spurius 
and  the  spuria  only  10  each.  It  ap- 
pears that  the  whole  sum  invested 
produced  about  5  per  cent.  The 
Tabula  is  nearly  12  ft.  in  length  by 
about  5  in  height;  the  writing  is  in 
seven  columns.  The  names  and  situa< 
tion  of  the  lands  are  given,  thus  ren- 
dering it  an  interesting  memorial  of 
local  topography.— Another  inscription 
contains  the  fragments  of  laws  to  be 
observed  in  Cisalpine  Gaul. — A  small 
statue  of  a  Dnmken  Hercules,  on  the 
marble  pedestal  of  which  is  engraved 
a  dedicatory  inscription  to  the  demi- 
god by  a  certain  Demetrius. — Three 
graceful  statuettes  of  Mars,  Apollo, 
and  Bacchus. — A  small  statue  of  a 
Victory. — ^A  full-sized  gilt  bust  of  Ha- 
drian, and  another  of  a  Young  Man 
with  glass  eyes  inserted  in  the  sockets  ; 
and  numerous  articles  of  domestic  use. 
— Room  III. — Some  Egyptian  articles: 
fragments  of  Comic  Masks  in  marble, 
discovered  in  the  ruins  of  the  Roman 
theatre  at  Parma ;  two  busts  of  Vi- 
tellius  from  Rome;  a  mutilated  statue, 
called  Agrippina,  from  Velleia ;  and  a 
small  group  of  Leda  and  the  &wan, 
without  the  heads,  found  also  at  Parma, 
a  rather  indeHcate  subject,  such  as 
would  be  consigned  at  Rome  or  Naples 
to  the  cellars  of  the  Vatican  or  Museo 
Borbonico. — 5oow»  IV.  contains  the  col- 
lection of  Coins  and  Medals,  numbering 
nearly  30,000 ;  four  good  draped  Sena- 
torial statues  in  marble,  two  with  their 
heads  perfect,from  Velleia ;  a  fewGwBco- 
Siculan  Vases ;  and  a  very  interesting 
series  of  gold  ornaments,  chains,  brace- 
lets, &c.,  discovered  in  1821  in  digging 
the  foundation  of  the  new  theatre; 
with  gold  coins  from  the  reign  of  Nero 
to  that  of  GaUienus.  The  Colossal 
Bust  of  Maria  Louisa  in  this  room  is 
by  CavMva. 


The  University,  not  far  fi^m  the 
Piazza  Grande,  in  the  ancient  College 
of  San  Rocco,  which  belonged  to  the 
Jesuits,  contains  the  different  schools, 
an  astronomical  observatory,  and  a 
cabinet  of  natural  history.  The  average 
number  of  students  of  late  years  has 
been  between  300  and  400. 

The  Tipografia  del  Qovemo  (in 
the  Famese  Palace,  below  the  Gal- 
leries) is  known  to  the  bibhographical 
world  as  having  been  under  the  direc- 
tion of  the  celebrated  Bodoni.  Among 
his  collections  may  be  seen  various  fine 
specimens  of  typography,  and  different 
methods  of  printing  music.  These,  as 
well  as  the  models  or  matrices  of  his 
types,  have  been  deposited  in  a  room  set 
apart  for  the  purpose  in  the  Library. 

The  Teatro  Nuovo,  close  to  the 
Ducal  Palace,  begun  in  1821,  and 
opened  in  1829,  is  a  very  showy  build- 
ing within.  It  cost  2,000,000  lire 
Italiane. 

The  JSotanio  Garden  is  on  the  1. 
bank  of  the  river,  not  far  from  the 
Citadel  on  the  S.  side  of  the  town, 
from  which  extends  the  public  prome- 
node  or  Stradone,  to  the  Boulevards^ 
which,  running  along  the  ramparts, 
surround  the  whole  of  the  eastern 
portion  of  Parma. 

The  late  Cavaher  Toschi  and,  his 
school  had  been,  for  some  time  prior 
to  his  death,  engaged  on  a  series  of 
elaborate  drawings  from  the  frescoes  of 
Correggio ;  from  which  engravings  have 
been  executed,  which  will  preserve  a 
knowledge  of  these  great  works,  now 
so  decayed.  They  may  be  seen  at 
Toschi' s  house  in  Parma;  and  in 
London,  at  Messrs.  Colnaghi's. 

In  1843  the  remains  of  a  Roman 
theatre  were  discovered  at  Parma,  near 
the  church  of  S.  Uldarico. 

The  torrent  Parma  has  here  no 
beauty  :  it  is  crossed  by  three  bridges. 
In  the  N.W.  suburb  is  the  Palazzo  del 
Oiardino,  It  was  built  by  Ottavio 
Famese,  but  was  altered  and  enlarged 
in  1767.  It  is  partly  stuccoed  and 
looks  unfinished,  but  contains  some 
curious  frescoes,  which  about  a  cen- 
tury ago  were   covered   with   paper- 

y3 


454 


Ipmte  41. — Cremona  to  Pa^ma. 


Sect.  V 


hangings.  Parfcs  were  uncovered  by 
the  French  about  40  years  ago,  others 
very  recently ;  some  are  still  concealed. 
The  frescoes  in  one  room  are  by  Agos- 
tino  Caracci ;  but  were  left  unfinished 
by  him,  as  we  learn  from  an  inscrip- 
tion, which  says  that  it  is  better  to  see 
them  unfinished  by  his  hand  than 
finished  by  any  other.  They  represent 
the  Kape  of  Europa,  the  Triumph  of 
Venus,  the  Marriage  of  Peleus  and 
Thetis,  in  three  large  paintings  occu- 
pying three  sides  of  the  room.  On 
the  window  side  is  Apollo  and  Daphne. 
In  the  centre  of  the  ceiling  are  three 
Cupids,  and  other  subjects  in  lunettes 
above  the  four  sides.  "  Although  sUght 
and  coarse  in  execution,  the  classical 
stories  they  represent  are  pleasingly 
told  and  with  much  poetic  feeling; 
particularly  that  one  of  Peleus  and 
Thetis,  where  the  coy  modesty  of  the 
lady,  the  enjoyment  of  the  Cupids,  and 
the  general  languid  voluptuousness  are 
successfully  treated.'* — C.  W.  C. 

A  second  room  is  decorated  with  alle- 
gories representing  various  scenes  of 
enjoyment ;  one  the  palace  of  Armida, 
with  its  columns  and  walls  of  crystal, 
like  the  Palais  de  la  Verite  of  Ma- 
dame de  Q-enlis,  through  which  the 
figures  are  seen.  A  third  room  con- 
tains mythological  subjects.  There  is 
also  a  large  collection  of  portraits  of 
the  members  of  the  houses  by  which 
Parma  has  been  ruled,  but  which  have 
little  merit  as  works  of  art. 

The  Giardino  Ducale  is  in  the  old- 
fashioned  French  style,  with  half-de- 
serted look.  The  grounds  are  open  at 
all  times,  and  are  most  easily  reached 
by  crossing  the  bridge  from  the  Famese 
Palace. 


ROUTE  41. 

OEEMONA  TO  PABMA,  BY  CASAIi  HACh 
GIOBE  AlTD  COLOBNO. 


48  Eng.  m. 


( 


Ete.  25. 


Cremona, 

Cicognolo, 

Piadena, 

Between  Cremona  and  Parma  there 
is  a  diligence  daily,  which  leaves  Parma 
at  7i  A.M,  There  is  also  a  daily  dili- 
gence to  Mantua  by  Casal  Maggiore, 
Sabbionetta,  and  Castellucchio  at  7| 
A.M.,  reaching  Mantua  at  3^  p.m.,  in 
time  for  the  train  for  Yerona  and 
Venice  (fare,  9  francs),  corresponding 
with  those  to  and  from  Cremona. 

13  m.  Casal  Maggiore  (/n»,  La 
Croce  Verde)  ;  a  smtdl  but  important 
town  of  5000  Inhab.,  on  the  N.  bank 
of  the  Po,  here  a  mighty  stream :  the 
country  is  always  at  the  mercy  of  its 
devastating  waves. . 

"  Sic  pleno  Padus  ore  tamens  super  aggere 

tutas 
Excurrit  ripas,  et  totos  concutit  agros. 
Succubuit  si  qua  tellus,  cumulnmque  foren- 

tem 
Undarum  non  passa,  ruit ;  tnm  flumine  toto 
Transit,  et  ignotos  aperit  sibi  gurgite  campos. 
lUos  terra  fugit  dominos  ;  his  rura  colonis 
AcceduDt,  donante  Pado." 

Pharsaliaf  vi. 

"  So,  raised  by  melting  streams  of  Alpine  sno^v, 
Beyond  his  utmost  margin  swells  the  Po, 
And  loosely  lets  the  spreading  deluge  Qow  : 
Where'er  the  weaker  banks  oppressed  retreat, 
And  sink  beneath  the  heapv  waters'  weight. 
Forth  gosliing  at  the  breach  they  burst  their 

way, 
And  wasteful  o'er  the  drowned  country  stray  : 
Far  distant  fields  and  meads  they  wander  o'er, 
And  visit  lands  they  never  knew  before. 
Here,  from  its  seat  the  mouldering  earth  is 

torn. 
And  by  the  flood  to  other  masters  borne ; 
While  gathering  there,  it  heaps  the  growing 

soil, 
And  loads  the  peasant  with  his  neighbour's 

spoil." 

RovTE's  Lucan,  vi.  464-476. 

The  embankments,  in  many  parts, 
look  down  upon  the  adjoining  coun- 
try ;  and  from  time  to  i;ime  "  the  king 
of  rivers"  fully  asserts  his  devastating 
power. 


l^ARMA. 


Moute  42. — Parma  to  Mantua* 


466 


"  There  is  an  old  channel  of  the  Po 
in  the  territory  of  Parma,  called  Po 
Vecchio,  which  was  abandoned  in  the 
12th  centy.,  when  a  great  number  of 
towns  were  destroyed.  There  are  re- 
cords of  parish  churches,  as  those  of 
Vico  Belignano,  Agojolo,  and  Mar- 
tignana  (which  lie  a  little  to  the  N". 
and  N.W.  of  Casal  Maggiore),  having 
been  pulled  down,  and  afterwards  re- 
built at  a  greater  distance  from  the 
devouring  stream.  In  the  15th  centy. 
the  main  branch  again  resumed  its 
deserted  channel,  and  carried  away  a 
great  island  opposite  Casal  Maggiore. 
At  the  end  of  the  same  century  it  aban- 
doned, a  second  time,  the  bed  called 
*Po  Yecchio,*  canning  away  three 
streets  of  Casal  Maggiore." — LyelL 

"  Proluit  insano  contoiqaens  vortioe  silvaa 
Fluviorum   rex   Eridantis,   camposque   per 

omnes 
Cam  BUtbulJs  irmeuta  tulit." 

Oeorg.,  i.  481. 

*'  Then,  rising  in  his  might,  the  king  of  floods 
Rosh'd  through  the  forests,  tore  the  lofty 

woods, 
And  rolling  onward,  with  a  sweepy  sway, 
Bore   houses,;, herds,    and   labouring  hinds 


away. 


Dbtdsk'<  Oeorgicif  i.  649-653. 


The  river  is  now  crossed  on  a  bridge 
of  boats. 

Shortly  after,  reach  Sacca.  Here  we 
enter  the  Parmesan  territory, 

ColomOy  on  the  Parma,  formerly 
a  fief  of  the  family  of  S.  Vitale,  of 
whom  the  beautiful  Barbara  di  Co- 
lomo,  sacrificed  to  the  tyranny  of 
Ranuccio  I.,  was  a  member.  TJpon 
the  execution  of  her  husband  the  fief 
was  confiscated,  and  the  Palace  became 
the  principal  villegiatura  of  the  sove- 
ireigns :  it  is  a  large  and  stately,  but 
somewhat  neglected,  building.  "  Under 
the  Famese  dukes  it  contained  several 
remarkable  spedmens  of  antiquity  and 
-works  of  art.  It  has  also  some  tolerable 
modem  frescoes  by  Borghetti.  The 
Church  of  San  Idborio,  near  the  Pa- 
lace, is  richly  decorated. 

Cortile  San  Martino,  Here  is  a 
desecrated  building,  once  a  Carthusian 
monastery,  with  a  fine  church  in  the 
!Renaissance  style,  now  falling  into  ruin. 


The  above  is  the  only  road  on  which 
there  are  relays  of  post-horses  between 
Cremona  and  Parma;  but  there  is  a 
more  direct  one,  which  crosses  the  Po 
at  the  Porto  di  Cremona  to  Monticelli, 
where  it  branches  off"  on  the  1.  to 
Corte-maggiore,  Busseto,  Borgo  San 
Donino,  and  Parma  (see  Rte.  40). 
From  Corte  Maggiore  there  is  also  a 
good  road  of  6  m.  to  S.  Azuola,  and 
another  from  MonticeUi,  through  San 
Nazzaro,  Caorso,  and  Eoncaglia,  to  Pia- 
cenza,  about  20  m. 

16  m.  PARMA  (Route  40). 


ROUTE  42. 


FABMA  TO  MANTUA,  BY  GTJASTAliIA, 

Brescello     lY  m. 
Guastalla      9 


Borgoforte  17  uu 
Mantua.         9 


62  Eng.  m. 

Vicopre,  with  a  small  church  in  the 
style  of  the  Renaissance. 

Sorbolo,  on  the  Enza  torrenf,  a 
village  on  the  frontier  of  Modena. 

Brescello,  the  Roman  Brixellum; 
pleasantly  situated  near  the  rt.  bank  of 
the  Po,  here  -dotted  with  numerous 
islands.  This  town,  which  is  now  on 
the  rt.  bank  of  the  river,  is  one  of 
those  of  which  the  site  was  formerly 
on  the  1.  "  Subsequently  to  the  year 
1390,  the  Po  deserted  pait  of  the  terri- 
tory of  Cremona,  and  invaded  that  of 
Parma;  its  old  channel  being  still 
recognisable,  and  bearing  the  name  of 
Po  Morto." — Lyell. 

The  road  runs  along  the  Po  by  Bo- 
retto  and  Q-ualtieri,  and  crosses  the 
Crostolo  river,  which  formerly  sepa* 
rated  Modena  from  Q-uastalla. 


456 


JioiUe  43* — Parma  to  Sarzana* 


Sect.  V* 


1  Ghtastalla. — {Inns:  La  Posta,  H 
Capello  Verde,  II  Leone  d'Oro.).  This 
small  city  on  the  Crostolo,  containing 
between  2000  and  3000  Inhab.,  is 
quite  in  proportion  to  the  duchy  of 
which  it  is  the  capital.  G-uastalla  be- 
longed originally  to  the  family  of  the 
ToreUis  as  its  Counts  from  14X)6  to  1509, 
and  afterwards  to  a  younger  branch  of 
the  Qonzagas  of  Mantua ;  in  1748  it 
was  given  to  the  Parma  Bourbons 
by  the  treaty  of  Aix-la-Chapelle,  the 
Jast  of  the  Gronzagas  of  the  G-uastalla 
branch  having  died  in  1746  without 
issue.  Forming  with  those  of  Parma 
and  Piacenza  the  sovereignty  of  Maria 
Louisa,  it  reverted  to  the  Duke  of 
Modena  on  the  death  of  that  princess. 
In  the  Lombard  times  it  was  known 
by  the  name  of  Ouardstall.  The  statue 
in  bronze  of  Ferrant«  Gonzaga  I.,  by 
Leone  Leoni^  in  the  piazza,  is  the  only 
work  of  art  worthy  of  notice  here.  He 
is  trampUng  upon  Envy,  represented 
in  the  shape  of  an  ugly  satyr.  Don 
Ferrante  had  been  accused  of  treason 
against  the  emperor,  but  he  disproved 
the  charge  made  by  his  enemies.  The 
cathedral  has  only  recently  obtained 
a  bishop,  the  see  having  been  insti- 
tuted in  1828.  There  are  eight  other 
churches  in  the  town,  and  some  chari- 
table institutions.  Guastalla  is  now 
the  frontier  town  of  the  Italian  king- 
dom towards  the  Austrian  possessions 
on  the  Po. 

Luzzara,  a  village  on  the  banks  of 
the  Po,  on  the  A\istrian  frontier.  It  is 
a  point  of  some  military  importance; 
here,  in  August  1702,  the  imperialists 
under  Prince  Eugene  suffered  a  me- 
morable defeat  from  the  French.  Be- 
tween Vnia  and  Sailetto  we  traverse 
the  territory  of  Q-onzaga,  which,  by  a 
strange  oversight  at  ViQafranca,  was 
allowed  to  remain  in  the  hands  of 
Austria. 

One  mile  b^ond  SaiUetto  we  cross 
the  Po  by  the  ferry  of 

2  Bor^qforte,  so  called  from  the 
strong  castle  built  here  by  the  Man- 
tuans  in  1211. 

1  MANTUA  (Rte.  30). 


ROUTE  43. 


PAEMA  TO  SABZAKA,  BY  PONTBEltOLI. 


Forauovo. 

Beix«to. 

PontremoU. 


Terra  ^asa. 

Sarzana. 


The  road  is  kept  in  tolerable  repair, 
but  is  heavy  in  winter,  and  at  all  times 
dull  until  it  reaches  the  summit  of  the 
Apennines.  It  has  been  improved  of 
late  years,  and  a  diligence  travels  by  it 
daily,  except  on  Sundays,  carrying  the 
mails,  from  Parma  to  Sarzana  by 
Pontremoli,  leaving  at  5  A.m:.  :  fiare  to 
Pontremoli  11  fr.  and  to  Sarzana  19  fr., 
there  are  no  post-horse  stations  on  it. 
This  road  was  much  frequented  in  the 
middle  ages  by  persons  going  to  BK>me 
from  countries  beyond  the  Alps ;  hence 
the  names  then  given  to  it  of  Strada 
Francesca  and  Bomea.  Anciently  a 
branch  of  the  Via  Clodia  appears  to 
have  traversed  this  pass  of  the  Apen- 
nines. 

This  route,  perhaps  the  least  inte- 
resting over  the  Apennines  in  a  pic- 
turesque view,  may  prove  convenient  to 
persons  desiring  to  reach  the  baths  of 
Lucca,  sea-bathing  at  Spezia,  &c., 
from  Lombardy,  without  going  round 
by  Bologna  on  the  E.,  or  by  Q«noa  on 
theW. 

The  only  tolerable  sleeping-place  wiU 
be  found  to  be  Pontremoli,  which  may 
be  easily  reached  with  vetturino  horses 
in  a  summer's  day  from  Parma. 

ColleccTdOy  a  village  pleasantly  situ- 
ated near  thecommenoement  of  the  hilly 
country ;  there  is  a  good  Ghothic  church 
with  a  baptistery  here.  FromOoUecchio 
the  road  runs  along  the  hills  which 
bound  the  valley  of  the  Taro,  gradually 
approaching  that  river,  to 

2  posts,  Fomuovo  (Forum  Novano- 
rum),  at  the  foot  of  the  Apennines,  on 
the  rt.  bank  of  the  Taro,  at  its  junction 
with  the  Ceno,  a  considerable  stream 


PARMAi 


Rottte  43; — Berceto  ^Pontremolu 


467 


flowing  from  the  W.S.W.  There  are 
many  vestiges  of  Boman  antiquities  in 
the  more  recent  buildings  of  Fomuovo, 
particularly  in  the  waUs  of  the  prin- 
cipal church  and  some  of  the  adjoining 
houses.  The  church  is  rather  a  good 
liombard  structure ;  on  the  facade  are 
Bome  curious  bas-reliefs,  particularly 
one  representing  the  Seven  Mortal  Sins. 
Fomuovo  derives  some  celebrity  from 
the  battle  fought  here  in  1495  between 
Charles  VIII.  of  France  on  his  return 
from  Naples,  and  the  Italian  confede- 
rates under  Francesco  Qonzaga,  Mar- 
quis of  Mantua,  when  the  latter  were 
defeated  with  great  loss,  although  num- 
bering more  than  four-fold  the  victo- 
rious armv.  The  roads  leading  from 
Parma  to  feorgo  Taro  and  Bardi  sepa- 
rate at  Fomuovo.  There  is  an  indiffer- 
ent Italian  Inn  here  (Albergo  Reale)  j 
the  people  civil.  The  road  begins  to 
ascend  rapidly  after  Fomuovo,  over  a 
spur  of  the  Apennines  separating  the 
Taro  and  Bagnanza  valleys,  winding 
round  the  high  lull  of  Monte  Prinzera^ 
and  passing  through  the  villages  of 
Piantogna  and  Cassio. 

3  posts,  Berceto  {Inn:  Albergo  B^ale, 
very  poor ;  the  DiHgence  and  Yetturini 
generally  stop  here) — a  picturesque 
ancient  town  in  the  midst  of  the  moun- 
tains. The  church  is  a  Gothic  building ; 
the  piazza  in  front,  the  fountain,  and 
the  whole  scene  around,  are  singular ; 
this  is  the  last  town  before  crossing 
the  Apennines .  The  road  hence  ascends 
the  Bagnanza  torrent  to  the  Cisa  Pass, 
which  is  very  wild  and  desolate,  at 
an  elevation  of  3420  £ng.  ft.  above  the 
sea ;  it  is  supposed  that  it  was  by 
this  pass  that  Hannibal  penetrated 
into  Etruria,  after  having  defeated 
Sempronius  on  the  Trebbia.  We  here 
enter  the  province  of  Upper  Lunigiana. 
The  road  descends  rapidly  by  Monte 
Iami^  and  Mlgnenza  on  the  Magra, 
the  rt.  bank  of  which  it  follows  to 

Pontremoli  {Iwn :  II  Pavone,  and  the 
Posta ;  although  not  over  clean,  it  is 
a  tolerable  house,  with  civil  people, 
and  the  best  stopping-place  between 
Parma  and  Saraana) .  This  city,  of  3400 
Inhab.,  which  derives  its  name  pro- 


bably from  a  shaky  bridge  over  the 
Magra  (Pons  tremulus),  offers  a  striking 
contrast  to  all  the  traveller  has  hitherto 
seen.  He  finds  himself  amongst  a  new 
race,  and  many  buildings  have  a  pecu- 
Uar  character.  Situated  in  a  triangle 
formed  by  the  junction  of  the  Magra 
and  Verde  torrents,  it  consists  of  an 
upper  and  lower  town,  the  former  sur- 
rounded by  massive  and  picturesque 
fortifications.  PontremoU,  being  during 
the  middle  ages  as  it  were  the  key  to 
one  of  the  most  frequetaited  passes  of 
the  chain  between  Tuscany  and  Lom- 
bardy,  has  repeatedly  changed  masters. 
Some  of  the  old  towers  were  raised  in 
1322  by  Castruccio,  the  Tord  of  Lucca ; 
others  by  the  Genoese,  when  they  held 
possession  of  the  Lunigiana.  It  also 
belonged  for  a  time  to  Milan  ;  and 
the  armorial  bearings  of  the  Sforzas 
show  its  ancient  union  to  that  power- 
ful duchy.  The  lower  town  of  Pon- 
tremoU has  a  more  modem  aspect ; 
the  Duomo,  unfinished,  was  begun  in 
1620.  La  Sta.  Annunziata  in  the  S. 
suburb  was  built  in  1471 ;  within 
stands  a  small  octagonal  temple  of  white 
marble  and  good  workmanship.  The 
other  churches  are  modernized.  Pont- 
remoli is  23  m.  from  Carrara. 

The  road,  on  leaving  Pontremc^, 
runs  parallel  to,  but.  at  some  distance 
from  the  Magra,  passing  Villafrcmcay 
where  the  Bagnone  torrent  enters  it ; 
several  fine  old  castellated  remains  are 
scattered  over  the  country  on  each  side 
of  the  river. 

Mlattiera,  between  Pontremoli  and 
Villafranca,  has  a  fine  old  castle,  once 
belonging  to  the  Malaspinas,  the  feudal 
lords  of  the  Lunigiana. 

2  posts,  TerraSossa  (no  Inn),  near  the 
junction  of  the  Coviglia  and  Tavarone 
torrents  with  the  Magra,  both  of  which 
muBt  be  crossed  on  leaving  it  for  Sar- 
zana.  Do  not  let  travellers  allow  them- 
selves to  be  imposed  upon  by  the  people 
offering  assistance  to  cross  these  tor- 
rents, as  it  is  unnecessary.  A  new  road 
has  been  recently  opened  from  Terra 
Kossa  to  Sarzana  by 

Aulla  (the  Papagallo,  a  poor  cabaret, 
outside  the  gate,  is  kept  by  civil  people)  j 


458 


Houte  43. — Sarzana — Fosdinovo. 


Sect.  V* 


the  country  as  far  as  Aulla  is  beau* 
tiful.  After  leaving  this  toAvn  the  Au- 
letta  torrent  is  crossed  in  a  ferry-boat, 
the  landing  from  which  is  bad  for 
carriages  on  both  sides. 

Sarzana;  an  extra  horse  between 
Sarzana  and  Terra  S>ossa,  both  ways, 
from  Nov.  1  to  May  1.     (Kte.  14.) 

[Travellers  to  Lucca  and  Florence 
need  not  go  out  of  their  way  to  Sarzana ; 
after  crossing  the'  Auletta,  on  leaving 
Aulla,  they  may  enter  the  duchy  of  Massa 
Carrara ;  the  carriage-road  ascends  for 
5  m.  to 

CeseranOj  a  small  town,  where  a  road 
branches  off  c«i  the  1.  to  Hvizzano  j 
from  Ceserano  a  hilly  road  leads  by 
Terenzo  and  Tendola  to 

Fosdinovo^  a  town  of  1850  Inhab., 


very  finely  situated  on  a  projecting 
part  of  the  Apennines,  and  offering 
fine  views  over  the  Mediterranean,  the 
Cl-ulf  of  Spezzia,  and  the  shore  to  the 
eastward ;  myrtles  grow  wild  in  abun- 
dance between  Fosdinovo  and  the 
plain  to  the  S.  There  is  a  good  road 
of  about  6  m.  from  Fosdinovo  to 
Portone^  where  it  joins  the  high  road 
from  Sarzana  to  Lucca,  3  m.  beyond 
the  former. 

From  Fosdinovo  a  considerable 
ascent  of  nearly  an  hour  to  Monte 
Girone,  and  an  equal  distance  to  Cas- 
telpoggio,  where  there  is  a  kind  of 
Inn  (la  Pistola).  From  Castelpoggio 
the  road  is  good  and  very  picturesque 
as  far  as  Carrara.    (See  Ete,  76.)] 


(     459     ) 

SECTION  VI. 

DUCHY    OF   MODENA. 

'    EOUTES. 
EOUTE  PAGE      BOTTTE  PAGE 

50  Parma  to  Reggio  and  Modena 

— Eail    . 460 


51  Modena  to   Pistoja,  by  Bari- 

gazzo  and  San  Marcello  .     .  467 


PRELIMINARY   INFORMATION. 

§  1.  History. 

Francesco  V.,  Duke  of  Modena  ('deposed  in  1.859),  was  born  1st  June,  1819, 
and  succeeded  his  father  on  the  21st  January,  1846.  In  addition  to  his  prin- 
cipal title,  he  is  an  Archduke  of  Austria,  and  Duke  of  Guastalla,  Massa,  and 
Carrara.  His  territories  embraced  the  duchies  of  Modena  Proper,  Guastalla, 
and  Reggio,  on  the  N.,  and  of  Massa  and  Carrara,  the  districts  of  the  Apennines, 
and  Fivizzano,  more  recently  acquired  by  exchange  from  Tuscany,  on  the  S.  The 
Modenese  territory  therefore  extended  from  the  Po  to  the  Mediterranean,  although 
the  portion  lying  on  the  sea-coast  is  very  small,  and  devoid  of  ports  or  harbours. 
Owing  to  his  family  ties  with  the  House  of  Austria,  Francesco  V.  espoused  the 
imperial  cause  with  ardour,  the  consequence  of  which  has  been,-  that,  on  the 
breaking  out  of  the  war  with  France  and  Piedmont  in  the  spring  of  1859,  he 
was  obliged  to  abandon  his  states,  which,  in  the  year  following,  by  an  fdmost 
unanimous  vote,  annexed  themselves  to  the  kingdom  of  Italy,  and  of  which 
they  now  form  the  provinces  of  Modena,  Reggio,  and  Massa-Carrara. 

§  2.    AGBICTTLTirEE. — COMMEECB. — FINANCES. 

The  Modenese  territory  was  of  somewhat  greater  extent  than  Parma.  Its 
soil  and  productions  are  similar,  except  to  the  S.  of  the  Appennines,  where  the 
olive  and  orange  grow  in  the  open  air.  The  population  by  the  last  census 
amounted  to  631,377  Inhab.  The  farms  are  small,  and  the  metayer  system 
prevails.  Agriculture  is  the  chief  industry ;  chestnuts  form  the  principal  food 
of  the  peasantry  in  the  mountain  districts,  pollenta  or  porridge  of  Indian  corn- 
meal  in  the  plain.  Wheat,  maize,  wines,  olives,  silk,  hemp,  and  some  flax,  are 
the  principal  objects  of  culture.  The  valley  of  La  Garfagnana  is  that  alone  in 
which  dairy  pasture  is  followed  to  any  extent.  Large  flocks  of  sheep  pasture 
on  the  Apennines  and  the  slopes  of  the  mountains,  on  which  pine,  oak,  and 
chestnut  trees  abound.  The  vine  is  extensively  cultivated  about  Reggio  and 
Modena,  from  which  a  large  quantity  of  wine,  of  a  strong  rough  description,  is 
exported  to  Lombardy.  The  marble  of  Carrara  forms  the  most  valuable  article  of 
its  mineral  riches.  Some  silk-works,  linen  and  canvas,  leather,  paper,  and  pottery, 
all  on  an  insignificant  scale,  comprise  the  manufacturing  industry  of  this  small 
state.  Its  trifling  commerce  is,  like  that  of  Parma,  confined  to  an  interchange 
of  its  few  surplus  products  for  colonial  commodities  and  articles  of  luxury  ;  all 
of  which,  from  both,  are  comprised  in  the  trade  of  the  surrounding  maritime 
states.  The  annual  revenues  of  Modena  as  an  independent  state,  in  1858, 
amounted  to  8,413,622  francs  (336,545/.) ;  the  expenditure,  8,728,133  francs 
(349,126/.) ;  showing  here,  as  everywhere  in  Italy,  a  deficit. 

§  3.  Posting. — Money. 

The  posting  regulationts  and  money  are  the  same  as  in  the  other  parts  of  the 
Kingdom  of  Italy. 


4(30 


Eoute  SO. — Parma  to  Reggto  and  Modem,  Sect.  Vl 


1 


ROUTES. 


ROUTE  50. 

PAEMA-  TO  EEaGIO  AND   MODENA, 
BY  EAILWAT. 


S.  Ilario 
Iteggio 


KIL. 

.    11 
,    28 


Rubiera 
Modena 


KIL. 

40 
,    53 


63  kil.  ■=^  33  m. 

The  railway  continues  nearly  pa- 
rallel to  the  Via  Emilia. 

On  quitting  Parma  fine  views  of  the 
purple  Apennines  in  the  distance  open 
on  the  rt. 

San  Lazzaro ;  the  name  of  this  place 
indicates  the  existence  of  an  ancient 
hospital.  Lepers  were  strictly  pro- 
hibited from  entering  the  city  of  Parma, 
hence  the  necessity  of  this  house  of 
refuge.  The  Portone  di  San  Lazzaro, 
an  arch  which  crosses  the  post  road  on 
the  rt.,  was  erected  to  commemorate 
the  arrival  of  Margaret  of  Medici,  on 
the  occasion  of  her  marriage  with 
Odoardo  Famese  in  1628. 

San  FrosperOf  a  village  on  the  rt. ;  a 
mile  further,  we  cross  by  a  long  bridge 
the  Enza  torrent,  furious  in  winter,  but 
in  summer  having  its  course  marked 
only  by  a  bed  of  stones.  About  a  mile 
further  on  commenced  the  territory  of 
Modena,  soon  after  which  we  reach 

1 1  kil.  Sant'  Ilario  Stat.,  about  ^  a 
m.  from  the  village  of  the  same  name. 
5  m.  S.  of  this  lies  Montecchio,  cele- 
brated for  the  birthplace  of  Attendolo 
Sforza,  the  father  of  Francesco,  the 
founder  of  the  great  but  unfortunate 
second  dynasty  of  the  Dukes  of  Milan. 
1  m.  N.  of  St.  Ilario  is  Taneto,  which 
preserves  nearly  unchanged  the  name 
of  Tanetnm,  one  of  the  Roman  stations 
on  the  Via  Emilia. 

2  m.  further  cross  the  Crostolo,  which, 
iiuder  the  French,  gave  its  name  to  the 
department,  before  reaching 

17  kil.  Reggio  {Inns:  Posta,  Giglio), 
a  flourishing  city,  containing  upwards 
of  16,000  Inhab.  Hegium  Leptdi  was 
founded  by,  or  at  least  received  the 
privileges  of  a  Roman  colony  from, 
.ffimilius  Lepidus.  The  devastations  of 
Alaric,  and  the  restoration  of  the  city 


by  Charlemagne,  hav«  effaced  almost, 
every  vestige  of  antiquity.  A  curious 
Roman  statue  of  Janus,  of  fairly  good 
workmanship,  but  lacking  both  arms, 
is  built  into  the  corner  of  a  house  near 
the  Palazzo  dei  Bechi.  A  statue,  which 
is  called  that  of  Lepidus,  is  preserved 
in  the  Palazzo  del  Commune.  There 
are  several  curious  Roman  inscriptions 
and  cippi  in  the  cortile  and  porticoes 
of  that  building. 

The  great  romantic  poet  of  Italy  was 
bom  at  Reggio,  and  the  house  in  which 
Ariosto  first  saw  the  light  is,  accord- 
ing to  immemorial  tradition  pointed 
out  near  the  Palazzo  del  Commune. 
Some,  however,  maintain  that  Ariosto 
mnst  have  been  born  within  the  pre- 
cincts of  the  citadel.  The  house  itself 
has  no  appearance  of  age,  and  has 
nothing  but  the  tradition  to  render  it 
remarkable. 

The  Diiomo  is  of  the  15th  century. 
The  fagade,  which  is  unfinished,  is 
ornamented  with  marble  columns,  and 
recumbent  on  the  pediment  of  the 
great  door  are  good  statues  of  Adam 
and  Eve,  by  dementi.  They  are  larger 
than  life,  and  Clementi  has  evidently 
imitated  his  master,  Michael  Angelo, 
in  the  position  of  the  figures,  which 
are  like  the  **  Morning  and  Evening  " 
in  the  Medicean  Chapel  at  Florence; 
there  are  also  statues  of  SS.  Chrysanthus 
and  Darius,  the  patron  saints. 

Within  the  cathedral  are  several 
other  works  by  Clementi: — The  Tomb 
of  Ugo  Rangoni,  Bishop  of  Reggio.  He 
is  represented  larger  than  life,  giving 
his  blessing.  By  Clementi  also  is  the 
bronze  group  at  the  high  altar,  repre- 
senting Christ  Triumphant,  and  the 
statues  of  Saints  Prosper,  Maximus, 
and  Catherine  in  the  choir.  Clementi 
himself  is  buried  in  this  cathedral, 
under  a  monument  by  his  pupil.  Poo- 
chione,  who  was  both  a  sculptor  and  an 
architect.  In  a  chapel  is  a  statue  of 
Bishop  Ficcarelli,  who  died  in  1 825.  It 
is  above  the  ordinary  run  of  modem, 
provincial  sculpture  in  Italy.  Another 
monument  is  th^t  of  Francesco  Maria 


MODENA. 


Ecfute  60. — Meggio — ChurcJies. 


461 


d*Este,late  Bishop  of  Reggio,died  1820. 
He  left  all  his  property  to  the  cathedral. 
Madonna  della  Ghiara.     The  plan  of 
this  charch  is  a  Greek  cross.     It  was 
begun   in    1597   from  the   designs   of 
Balbiy  and  completed  by  Pacchione,  who 
added  the  vaulting  of  the  cupola.    The 
architectural  details  are  good.    The  in- 
terior is  covered  with  frescoes.     Large 
and  small  there  are  upwards  of  200 
compartments  thus  decorated,  and  in 
good  preservation.     One  series  is  by 
Lvca  Ferrari  (1605-1654),  a  native  of 
Reggio,  the  disciple  of  Guide  Amongst 
these  are  several  Scripture  histories, 
which,  like  all  the  paintings  throughout 
the  church,  are  explained  or  allegorised 
by  short  mottoes ;  as,  for  example,  Re- 
becca at  the  Well,    **  ffausit  aquas  in 
gaudio  de  fonte  Salvatoris."     Another 
series  is  by  Tiarini,  of  Bologna  (born 
1577,  died  1668).     The  painter,  who 
lived  during  the  greater  part  of  his  life 
at  Reggio,  was  in  some  respects  formed 
by  the  Caracci,  yet  preserved  a  distinct 
character.    His  compartments  also  are 
Scripture    histories,   intermixed    with 
■devices.    A  third  series  is  by  Lionello 
Spada  (1576-1622),  a  friend,  and  yet 
in  some  degree  a  rival,  of  Tiarini ^  and 
to  whom  he  was  superior  in  colouring, 
but  inferior  in  design.    Spada  was  here 
in  direct  competition  with  Tiarini,  and 
the   series  which  he  has  left  contains 
some  of  his  most  carefully  executed 
works.     By  Desani  ( 1 594- 1 65 7),  a  pupil 
oi  Spada,  and  who  established  himself 
at  Reggio,  is  a  curious  series  of  figures, 
representing  eight  religious  orders,  with 
the  virtues  supposed  to  belong  more  par- 
ticularly to  each.     By  Gavassetti  (died 
1628),  several  Prophets  and  Virtues. 
A  Crucifixion,  by  Guercino,  seems  a  fine 
picture,  but  it  is  dirty  and  ill  seen. 
The  original  Madonna  delta  Ghiara,  once 
an  old  painting  upon  a  garden  wall, 
has  long  since  perished.     The  present 
one  was  painted  in  1573,  and  placed 
in  a  magnificent  shrine  or  altar,  with 
beautiful  lamps  of  silver  suspended  be- 
fore it.  The  tomb  of  Maria  Teresa,  the 
last  descendant  of  the  house  of  Cibo 
Malaspina, Dukes  of  Massa  Carrara,  and 
wife  of  Ercole  III.,  was  erected  by  her 
daughter,  Maria  Beatrix,  in  18^0 :  over 
it  is  a  good  bust  of  the  deceased. 


The  ancient  Basilica  of  San  Prospero 
(which  stands  behind  the  cathedral) 
was  entirely  rebuilt  in  the  16th  century. 
The  demolished  building  was  in  the 
Lombard  style.  Six  colossal  marble 
lions  which  supported  the  portals  are 
still  in  front  of  the  modern  church. 
One  grasps  two  skulls  with  his  hind 
paws ;  others  have  the  usual  rams  and 
serpents.  Within,  the  structure  is 
grand  and  regular.  Fine,  but  damaged 
frescoes  by  Campi  and  Procaccini — 
amongst  other  subjects,  the  Last  Judg- 
ment, Heaven,  Purgatory,  Hell-7-de- 
corate  the  vaultings.  Other  paintings 
are  by  Tiarini.  In  the  sanctuary  are 
some  statues,  a  crucifix,  and  massive 
ornaments,  in  silver. 

Reggio  has  a  good  public  library 
and  a  museum.  In  tlie  latter  are  the 
collections  of  the  celebrated  Spallan- 
zani :  he  was  born  at  Scandiano,  within 
the  district,  and  therefore  the  inha- 
bitants of  the  city  consider  him  as  their 
fellow-citizen.  Reggio  is  also  the  coun- 
try of  Valisnieri,  Toschi,  and  Paradisi. 
There  is  an  active  trade  here  in  wine, 
silk,  cheese,  and  hemp,  so  that  the 
place  has  an  air  of  prosperity.  A  bat- 
tery has  been  recently  built  on  the  N. 
side  of  the  town  which  commands  the 
line  of  rly. 

A  road  improved  of  late  years,  and 
with  a  military  object,  leads  from 
Reggio  to  the  shores  of  the  Mediter- 
ranean by  the  Pass  of  Sassalbo,  Fiviz- 
zano,  and  Sarzana,  through  a  country 
offering  little  interest,  with  only  one 
decent  resting-place,  at  Castelnuovo  nei 
Monte;  there  are  no  relays  of  post- 
horses  upon  it ;  it  has  been  chiefly  used 
hitherto  by  persons  carrying  fish  from 
the  coast  of  the  Mediterranean  to 
Reggio  and  Rubiera. 

About  12  m.  S.W.  from  Reggio  is 
Canossa,  celebrated  as  the  place  where 
the  Emperor  Henry  IV.,  after  suppli- 
cating during  three  days,  barefooted  and 
bareheaded,  obtained  absolution  from 
Pope  Gregory  VII.  in  1077.  The  place, 
formerly  of  some  importance,  is  now 
deserted;  some  fragments  of  its  walls 
and  a  ch.  dedicated  to  St.  Biaggio,  sur- 
rounded by  a  few  cottages  at  the  foot  of 
its  hill,  alone  marking  the  site.    Not  a 


462 


Roitte  60. — Modena — l%e  Dtiomo. 


Sect.  VI. 


trace  remains  of  the  ch.  of  St.  Nicholas, 
where  Henry  had  his  interview  with 
the  Abbot  of  Cluny. 

12  kil.  Rvbiera  Stat.,  1  m.  before 
reaching  the  Secckia.  This  place,  sur- 
rounded by  dismantled  fortifications, 
was  a  fief  belonging  to  Bojardo,  Lord  of 
Scandiano,  author  of  the  *  Orlando  Inna- 
morato.'  There  are  some  remains  of  a 
Roman  bridge  over  the  Secchia. 

The  road  contimies  through  a  plain, 
with  many  vines;  but,  in  other  re- 
spects, with  somewhat  diminished  fer- 
tility. Before  reaching  the  Modena 
Stat,  the  railway  runs  close  to  the  for- 
tified wall  of  the  city  on  rt. 

13  kil.  Modena  Stat,  close  to  the 
New  Porta  del  Castello,  leading  by  a 
wide  street  to  the  Ducal  Palace,  and 
into  the  city. 

MODENA  {Inns:  Albergo  Reale, 
a  new  house ;  Albergo  S.  Marco) ;  the 
ancient  Mutina,  possesses  nothing  but 
the  features  of  land  and  stream  to 
recall  its  early  history.  The  city 
is  situated  between  the  rivers  Secchia 
and  Panaro.  The  verses  of  Tassoni 
well  describe  the  locality  : — 

"  Modana  siede  in  una  gran  pianura, 
Che  da  la  x>arte  d'  A  astro,  e  d'  Occidente, 
Cerchia  di  baize,  e  di  scoscese  mara 
Del  selvoso  Apennin  la  schiena  algente ; 
Apennin,  ch'  ivi  tanto  all'  aria  pura 
8'  alza  a  veder  nel  mare  il  Sol  cadente, 
Che  8u  la  fronte  saa  cint&  di  gelo 
Par  die  s'  incurvi,  e  che  riposi  il  cielo. 
Da  V  Oriente  ha  le  fiorite  sponde 
Del  bel  Panaro,  e  le  sue  limpid'  acque, 
Dologna  incontro,  e  a  la  sinistra  T'onde, 
Dove  il  figlio  del  Sol  gill  morto  giacqae, 
Secchia  ha  da  l'  Aquilon,  che  si  confonde 
Ne'  girl,  che  miitar  sempre  la  piacque  ; 
Diyora  i  liti,  e  d'  infeconde  arene 
Semiuai  prati,  e  le  campagne  amene." 

Secchia  Rapita,  canto  L,  at.  8,  9. 

[A  few  hours,  indeed  for  many  tra- 
vellers the  interval  between  two  suc- 
cessive railway  trains,  will  suffice  to 
visit  the  most  interesting  objects  at 
Modena :  the  best  plan  in  that  case  will 
be  to  hire  a  carriage  at  the  railway 
station,  and  to  adopt  the'  following 
itinerary:  —  Ducal  Palace,  Pinacoteca 
and  Library;  Ch.  of  8,  Vincenzo ; 
Duomo;  Piazza  Muratori;  Ch.  of  S. 
Agostino ;  Museo  Lapidario ;  Piazza 
d' Armi,  and  Citadel ;  returning  by  the 
Corso  della  Via  Emilia,  and  along  the 
ramparts.] 


The  city,  which  contains  about 
30,000  Inhab.,  is  fortified,  and  the 
ramparts,  though  destitute  of  strength, 
offer  a  very  pleasant  walk.  The  views 
of  the  Appenines  from  them  are  pecu- 
liarly fine. 

The  Citadel,  and  its  Piazza  d^Armt^ 
include  perhaps  one-third  of  the  area 
of  the  city,  which  possesses  a  character 
differing  much  from  the  other  Lombard 
towns  in  its  domestic  architecture,  it 
being  more  of  a  German  cast. 

The  Duomo.  "  This  splendid  build- 
ing was  begun  in  1099,  at  the  instance 
and  with  the  assistance  of  the  cele- 
brated Countess  Matilda,  of  whose  vast 
possessions  Modena  formed  a  part.  In 
1108  the  work  was  so  far  advanced 
that  in  that  year  the  body  of  St.  Gemi- 
nianus,  the  patron  saint  of  Modena, 
was  translated  into  the  new  Basilica, 
which  was  at  the  same  time  conse- 
crated by  Pope  Pascal  II.,  in  the  pre- 
sence of  the  Countess  Matilda.  The 
bulk  of  the  fabric  therefore  belongs  to 
the  close  of  the  11th  century.  The 
name  of  the  architect  was  Lanfrancus, 
as  is  shown  by  an  inscription  on  one 
of  the  outer  walls.  The  style  is  Lom- 
bard throughout  External  arcades 
ornament  both  the  W.  end  and  the 
great  semicircular  apse.  In  the  in- 
terior, monsters  and  grotesque  images 
are  still  retained  in  the  capitals  of  some 
of  the  pillars.  But  a  feature  which  is 
not  found  in  the  old  Lombard  churches 
may  be  remarked  here,  in  the  large 
projecting  porch,  two  stories  in  height, 
which  advances  before  the  principal 
entrance ;  and  in  the  lions,  on  the 
backs  of  which  the  pillars  of  the  porch 
rest.  Though  projecting  porches  were 
an  essential  part  of  the  primitive 
churches,  they  seem  to  have  been  aban- 
doned under  the  Lombard  dynasty, 
and  not  to  have  been  resumed  tili  the 
11  th  century,  when  they  became  uni- 
versal. The  lions  are  symbolical.  They 
were  intended  to  represent  the  strength 
and  vigilance  of  the  Church.  At  a 
later  period  the  animals  which  were 
introduced  in  the  porches  often  repre- 
sented the  .arms  of  the  state  to  which 
the  building  belonged.  For  example, 
the  griffin  is  the  crest  of  Perugia,  and 
the  wolf  that  of  Sienna,  Perugia  and 


Soute  50. — Modena. 


464 


Route  50. — Modena — The  Ihwmo. 


Sect.  VI. 


Sienna  were  constantly  at  war :  in  con- 
sequence, the  doorway  of  the  Palazzo 
Publico  of  Perugia  is  decorated  with  a 
griffin  tearing  a  wolf." 

"  On  either  side  of  the  nave  there' 
are  galleries.  Under  the  chancel  is  a 
lofty  crypt.  To  gain  elevation  for  the 
crypt,  the  chancel  is  approached  by 
several  steps,  as  at  S.  Miniato  (near 
Florence)  and  elsewhere.  The  portals 
exhibit  ornaments  and  bas-reliefs  of 
different  periods,  ft*om  the  12th  down 
to  the  1 4th  century.  The  earliest  are 
executed  with  little  skill,  though  they 
must  have  excited  great  admiration 
at  the  time,  as  an  inscription  pre- 
serves the  name  of  the  artist.  Over 
the  head  of  one  of  the  figures,  at  one 
of  the  side-doors,  appears  the  name  of 
Artres  de  Bretani^ — a  proof  that  the 
legends  of  romance  were  popular  in 
Italy  in  the  L2th  century." — G.  Knight. 

The  sculptures  on  the  doorway  of 
the  faQade  are  extremely  rude,  and  re- 
present Adam  and  Eve,  the  Creation 
of  Eve,  the  Fall,  and  other  Scripture 
histories.  A  city  walled  and  turreted, 
assailed  by  knights  with  the  pointed 
shields  and  conical  helmets  of  the  11th 
century,  and  whose  names  are  written 
in  barbarous  characters.  Here  are  the 
names  of  some  of  the  heroes  of  the 
round  table.  Some  ancient  Roman  in- 
scriptions and  tombs  are  built  into  the 
facade.  Behind  the  altar  of  the  crypt 
is  the  tomb  of  St.  Greminianus.  The 
crypt  has  been  altered.  The  marble 
columns  in  the  church  itself  have  capi- 
tals approaching  Corinthian. 

The  paintings  in  the  Duomo  are  in 
general  below  mediocrity.  It  contains, 
however,  some  good  works  of  art.  The 
screen  of  red  marble  on  either  side  of 
the  choir,  consisting  of  a  range  of  small 
double  columns,  supporting  a  species 
of  balustrade,  is  peculiar.  An  altar- 
piece  in  the  2nd  chapel  on  I., in  the  style 
of  the  Renaissance,  in  terra-cotta,  with 
abundance  of  curious  small  statues. 
Another  altarpiece,  in  3rd  chapel  on  1., 
contains  the  earliest  known  specimen 
of  Modenese  art.  It  is  by  Serafino  dei 
Serafini  da  Modena,  and  was  executed 
1385.  It  is  hard  and  dry,  and  more 
than  usually  Byzantine.  The  pulpit  is- 
of  marble,  sculptured,  1322,  by  Tumaso 


Fern,  called  also  T.  da  Modena;  the 
small  statues  on  it  are  of  a  subsequent 
period ;  the  tarsia-work  of  the  stalls  in 
the  choir,  executed  in  1465,  is  worthy 
of  notice. 

Near  the  sacristy,  in  a  niche  behind 
and  above  an  altar,  is  a  good  group 
of  the  Nativity,  in  terracotta,  by  Beget- 
relli  (1518).    So  many  of  the  works  of 
this  artist  have  perished,  that  this  is 
kept  shut  up,  but  it  will  be  opened  by  the 
sacristano.    The  tombs  in  this  cathedral 
are  interesting.    Several,  belonging  to 
the    Rangoni   family,  are  of  a  good 
period  of  art.  That  of  Claudio  Rangoni, 
on  1.  of  the  choir,  designed  by  Giulio 
Bomctno,  consists    simply   of  a  sarco- 
phagus beneath  a  canopy.   Two  angels, 
supporting  a  tablet  on  which  the  letters 
I.H.S.  are  inscribed,  and  a  similar  one 
below,  constitute  its  only  ornaments. 
Claudio,  who  died  1 537,  at  the  age  of 
29,   succeeded  his   father,    Francesco 
Maria,   as  Count  of  Castelvetro.    He 
was   a  great    protector   of  literature, 
and  married  Lucretia,  a  daughter  of 
the  celebrated  Pico  della  Mirandola, 
who  erected  this  monument  to  his  me- 
mory.   The  tomb  of  Lucia  Rusca  Ran- 
goni, his  mother,  is  even  more  simple — 
a  vase  resting  upon   a  sarcophagus. 
This  is  also  from  a  design  of  Giulio  Ro- 
mano. Id  a  recess,  on  the  1.  of  the  upper 
ch.,  is  a  monument  to  Ercole  Rinaldo, 
the  1 3th  and  last  duke  of  the  House  of 
Este  in  the  male  line.    Deprived  of  his 
dominions  at  the  French  invasion,  a 
principality  was  erected  for  him  in  the 
Brisgau,  but  he  would  not  accept  this 
compensation,  and  died  as  a  private 
individual  at  Treviso,  14th  Oct.  1803. 
He  married  Maria  Teresa  Cibo,  Sove- 
reign Princess  of  Massa  Carrara,  the 
last  heiress  of  the  House  of  Cibo  Mala- 
spina.    They  had  an  only  child,  Maria 
Beatrix,  who  married  Archduke  Fer- 
dinand   of  Austria.      The    duchy  of 
Modena  had  been  previously  secured 
to  her  by  the  treaty  of  Versailles.    She 
died  atVienna.  1829,  at  an  advanced  age. 
The  lately  deposed  sovereign  of  Modena, 
Francesco  V.,  is  her  grandson.  The  mo- 
nument is  by  Pisani,  a  native  sculptor. 

The  facade  of  the  Duomo  towards 
the  S.,  overlooking  the  market-place, 
in  which  has  been  recently  placed  a 


MODENA. 


Eoute  50. — Modena — The  Ducal  Palace, 


465 


statue  of  the  poet  Tassoni,  has  two 
fine  and  deep  portals ;  one  with  quad- 
ruple bound  columns,  and  very  elabo- 
rate ornamental  work  round  the 
door.  At  the  S.E.  extremity  of  this 
side  of  the  church  are  four  bas-reliefs 
representing  events  in  the  life  of  S. 
Gemini  anus ;  amongst  others,  his  ex- 
pelling the  Devil  from  the  Daughter 
of  the  Emperor  Jovinian ;  they  were 
sculptured,  as  we  see  by  an  inscription, 
in  1442,  by  a  certain  Augustinus  de 
J^lorentid. 

"  The  Campanile^  or  Ghirlandina,  as 
it  is  called,  from  the  bronze  garland 
which  surrounds  the  weathercock,  is 
315  ft.  high,  and  is  one  of  the  four 
towers  of  which  the  North  of  Italy  has 
reason  to  be  proud.  Whether  it  was 
undertaken  at  the  same  time  with  the 
church  is  uncertain  j  but  the  square 
part  of  it  must  have  been  complete  in 
1224,  for  in  that  year  it  was  seized 
upon  by  one  of  the  factions  who  at  that 
time  disturbed  the  peace  of  Modena. 
The  upper  pyramidal  part  was  only 
finished  in  1319."— G^.  Knight. 

In  this  tower  is  preserved  suspended 
by  an  iron  chain  the  old  wormeaten 
SeccMa,  or  the  wooden  bucket,  taken 
by  the  Modenese  from  the  Bolognese 
in  the  battle,  or  rather  affray,  of  Zap- 
polino,  Nov.  15,  1325  ;  it  was  deposited 
here  by  the  victors,  the  Geminiani^  as  a 
trophy  of  the  defeat  of  the  Fetroniani, 
with  wonderful  triumph,  as  described 
in  Tassoni's  celebrated,poem : — 

"  Quivi  Manfredi  in  su  1' altar  maggiore 
Pose  la  Secchia  con  divozione  : 
£  poi  ch'  egli,  ed  il  clero,  e  Monaignore 
Fecero  al  Santo  lunga  orazione. 
Fa  levata  la  notte  a  le  tre  ore, 
E  dentro  una  cassetta  di  cotone 
Ne  la  tone  maggior  fu  riserrata, 
I>ove  si  trova  ancor  vecchia  e  tarlata. 

Ma  la  Secchia  fa  subito  portata 

Ne  la  torre  maggior,  dove  ancor  stassi 

In  alto  per  trofea  posta,  e  legata 

Con  una  gran  catena  a  curvi  sassi. 

S'  entra  per  cinque  porte  ov'  h  guardata, 

E  uon  h  cavalier,  che  di  111  passi, 

"Sh  pellegrin  di  conto,  il  qual  non  voglia 

Veder  si  degna  e  gloriosa  spoglia." 

Secchia  Rapita,  cant.  i.  63. 

The  Modenese  and  Bolognese  were  re- 
spectively called  Geminiani  and  Petro- 
iviani,  from  their  patron  saints  Gemi- 
nianus  and  Petronius. 


Ch.  of  S,  Agostino,  near  the  gate 
leading  |to  Reggio,  recently  converted 
into  a  gymnasium.  The  remarkable 
group  of  the  Deposition  from  the 
Cross,  in  painted  terra-cotta,  by  Be- 
garelU^  formerly  here,  has  been  re- 
moved to  the  Mnseo  Lapidario.  The 
figures,  as  large  as  life,  are  full  of 
animation.  **  If  this  clay  could  be- 
come marble,"  exclaimed  Michael 
Angelo,  **  woe  to  the  antique  I "  **  Se 
la  creta  delle  figure  di  costui  diventasse 
marmo,  guai  cUle  statue  antiche  !  **  Mura- 
tori  is  buried  in  this  ch..  A  statue 
has  been  raised  to  him  in  an  open  space 
off  the  Corso,  called  the  Piazza  Mu- 
ratori,  with  the  inscription,  k  L.  A. 
Muratori — La  Patria,  ia53.  Near  the 
ch.  of  S.  Agostino  is  the  large  Palace, 
called  the  Monte  dei  Pegni,  which  con- 
tains the  offices  of  the  charitable  esta- 
lishments  of  the  city.  Under  the 
porticoes  round  the  c6urt,  and  on  the 
ground  floor,  have  been  arranged  a 
series  of  Roman  and  Mediajval  monu- 
ments and  sculptures  which  constitute 
the  MusEO  Lapidario.  There  are  a 
good  many  Roman  inscriptions,  several 
huge  Mediffival  Sarcophagi,  the  greater 
number  from  desecrated  churches. 

Ch.  of  S.  Vincenzo  contains  the  tomb 
of  the  late  Duchess  of  Modena,  a  work 
of  merit,  and  of  other  members  of  the 
ducal  family. 

Ch.  of  S,  DomenicOy  near  the  palace, 
was  the  Chapel  Royal  of  the  court. 

The  Ducal  Palace  was  begun  in  the 
17th  century.  Much  was  added  by 
the  late  Duke,  and  it  is  now  a  fine 
building.  It  contains  numerous  courts, 
with  open  staircases,  galleries,  arches 
upon  arches,  such  as  are  seen  in  the 
background  of  old  Italian  pictures. 

The  most  interesting  portion  of  this 
pile  to  the  traveller  is  that  containing 
the  Picture  Gallery  {Galleria  Estense), 
situated  as  well  as  the  library  in  the 
uppermost  story  of  the  N.W.  wing ;  the 
entrance  is  by  a  side  door  opening  out 
of  the  Corso  Cavour ;  both  are  open 
daily  to  strangers  and  students. 

The  collection  of  paintings  is  large, 
exceeding  600  specimens,  an-auged  in 
13  rooms.  There  is  a  very  good  cata- 
logue ;  each  specimen  has  attached  to 
it  the  name  of  the  artist,  and  the  period 


466 


Route  60.' — Modena — Picture  GaUery, 


Sect.  VI. 


when  he  lived  ;  the  description  of  the 
subject  and  the  history  will  be  found 
in  the  catalogue.  Besides  the  paintings 
there  as  an  extensive  series  of  original 
dravnnfjs  of  the  old  masters.  The  fol- 
lowing are  the  most  worthy  of  notice : 
Passing  through  an  Anteroom,  I., 
where  there  is  nothing  worthy  of  notice, 
we  reach 

Room  II. — 24.  Simone  da  Bologna :  a 
Madonna  and  Child. — 26.  Masaccio :  a 
Portrait. — 27.  Mantegna:  2  Warriors 
and  a  female  called  Lucretia.- — 33. 
Gherard  of  Haarlem :  a  curious  old  paint- 
ing of  the  Crucifixion. — 34.  Montagna  : 
the  Virgin  wiCh  the  two  Saint  Johns. — 
35.  Giov.  Bellini:  a  Holy  Family. — 39. 
Giacomo  Francia :  the  Assumption. — 42. 
Lorenzo  di  Bicci:  an  interesting  Flo- 
rentine Master  of  the  15th  century;  a 
Madonna  and  Child. — Spinello  Aretino : 
a  Marriage,  interesting  for  the  costumes. 
— 5.  B,  Loschi:  a  Modenese  Master 
little  known  out  of  his  native  district ; 
the  Madonna  and  Child,  painted  for 
Prince  Pio  di  Carpi  in  1515,  as  stated 
on  the  inscription. — 58.  Marco  Melloni: 
another  liative  painter ;  the  same  sub- 
ject painted  in  1504. 

Room  III. — Nicolo  delV  Abate :  eight 
Landscapes  originally,  painted  for  a 
room  in  the  feudal  castle  of  the  Boi- 
ardos,  at  Scandiano. — 66.  Gorreggio :  the 
medallion  on  the  vault,  representing 
Ganymede,  was  originally  in  the  Castle 
or  Rocca  of  Novellara,  from  which 
it  was  removed  by  the  late  Duke  of 
Modena.  There  is  another  series  of 
subjects  from  the  -^neid  in  this  room 
by  Nicolo  delV  Abate,  also  from  the  Castle 
of  Scandiano.  They  contain  some 
family  portraits. 

Room  IV. — Chiefly  subjects  of  the 
Venetian  School.  The  five  paintings  on 
the  roof  are  attributed  to  Tintoretto,  as 
is  118.  A  Virgin  and  Saints.  — 123. 
Giorgione :  the  Portrait  of  a  Female, 
not  unlike  the  so-called  Fornarina,  in 
the  Gallery  of  Florence. — 125.  Paris 
Bordone :  the  Adoration  of  the  Magi. — 
128.  Faolo  Veronese:  his  own  Portrait. 
— 129.  Falma  Vecchio :  the  Madonna 
and  Saints. — 141,  Bonifazio  Bembo :  the 
Adoration  of  the  Magi. — 143.  Gima  da 
Gonegliano:  a  good  jDeposition. — 114,. 
1 1 7.  Titian :  Portraits  attributed  to  him. 


Room  V. — Chiefly  works  of  the  Bo- 
lognese  School. — 145.  Gennari:  a  good 
Half-figure. — 147?  A.  Sirani:  S.  Francis. 
— 1 49.  Guido  :  a  fine  Crucifixion ;  the 
back-ground  in  awful  darkness  has  a 
fine  effect. — 163.  Guercino:  St.  Peter. — 
164.  Lud.  Caracci:  the  Assumption  of 
the  Virgin. — 169.  Simone  da  Fesaro: 
the  Supper  in  Emmaus. 

Room  VI.— Chiefly  of  the  School  of 
Ferrara. — 171.  I>osso  Dossi:  Judith,  and 
176,  the  Nativity. — 172.  Garofalo:  the 
Crucifixion;  and  189,  a  Madonna  and 
Saints,  one  of  whom  is  San  Contardo 
d'Este;  it  is  signed  and  dated  1532. — 
196.  A  Female  Portrait  by  the  same; 
and  191,  192,  195.  Dosso  Dossi:  por- 
traits of  Alphonso  1st  and  2nd  Dokes 
of  Ferrara. 

Room  VII. — Frofane  subjects  of  the 
Bolognese  School,  —  201.  Lud.  Caracci: 
Flora. — 204.  An.  Caracci:  Venus. — ^206. 
Guercino :  Venus  seated.  —  207.  m?., 
Ammon  and  Thamar. — 210.  Albani:  a 
lovely  picture  of  Aurora. — 213.  Lud. 
Caracci:  Galatea.— 215,  217,  218.  Por- 
traits by  Guercino :  the  last  of  Cardinal 
Mazarin. 

Room  VIII. — A  large  collection  of 
Tableaux  de  Genre  of  different  Schools. 
— 237.  Attributed  to  Claude, — ^246.  A 
good  Teniers,  and  231,  an  interior  of 
the  same. — 222.  Van  Helmont :  an  Ec- 
clesiastic distributing  Alms  to  the  Poor ; 
some  Canalettis,  &c.  &c. 

Room  IX.  —  Paintings  of  Different 
Schools, — 297.  Andrea  del  Sarto:  a  Holy 
Family. — 298.  5?.  Zuini:  Our  Lord, 
the  hand  upon  a  Globe. — 302.  Le  Brun : 
the  Sons  of  Madian. — 309.  Fo.  Vanni: 
the  Marriage  of  St.  Catherine. — ^320. 
Lttke  of  Leyden :  a  good  Madonna  and 
Child. 

Room  X.,  or  Grand  Hall  (Salon 
Grande). — This  fine  saloon  contains 
all  the  larger  paintings  of  the  different 
schools. — 327.  E.  Frocaccini:  the  Cir- 
cumcision.—  366.  Dosso  Dossi:  the 
Virgin  and  Child. — C.  Frocaccini:  the 
Adoration  of  the  Magi. — 341.  Guercino  : 
the  Marriage  of  St.  Catherine. — 342.  J. 
Tintoretto :  Daphne  pursued  by  Apollo. 
— 345.  Dosso  Dossi:  a  large  Madonna. 
— 348.  Leonello  Spado:  Young  Men  in 
strange  dresses ;  and  365,  St.  Francis 
offering  flowers  to  the  Virgin  and  Child. 


MODENAi 


Route  5 1." — Modena  to  Pistoja. 


467 


■ — 353.  TiaHni:  a  Crucifixion. —  355. 
Guercino:  the  same  subject. — 370.  Po- 
marancio:  the  Dead  Saviour  on  the 
Cross,  with  the  Marys,  and  St.  John ; 
one  of  the  painter's  finest  works. — 373. 
Guido:  St.  Roch  in  prison. — 371.  Guer^ 
cino:  the  Madonna  and  Child  with  a 
Capuchin  Friar. — 385.  Bern,  Strozzi:  S. 
Francis. 

Booms  XI.  and  XII.  are  devoted  to 
the-  Modenese  Masters. — 391,  444,  by 
Donini  of  Correggio. — 39  7 .  Sassuolo. — 400. 
Camevale.  —  450,  455.  Lelio  Orsi  da 
Nbvellara. — 402.  Nicolo  deW  Abate, — 403. 
Pellegrino  da  Modena.y- 423.  Bernardo 
Cerhi, 

EooM  (XIII.)  is  filled  with  smaU 
paintings. — 456.  Cavedone:  a  Virgin 
and  Saints.— 46 1 .  The  Head  of  a  Child, 
attributed  to  Correggio. — 452.  Fra  Bar- 
tolommeo :  a  Madonna. 

Boom  XIV.  contains  sundry  objects 
of  vertu,  carved  ivories,  majolicas,  &c. 
Beyond  the  collection  of  paintings, 
and  leading  to  the  library,  is  a  long 
gallery,  the  walls  of  which  are  covered 
with.  Drawings  by  the  Old  Masters,  There 
are  specimens  by  Titian,  Giulio  Ro- 
mano, Tintoretto,  Michael  Angelo, 
Pordenone,  Molosso,  Guido,  the  Ca- 
raccis,  Parmegianino,  Luca  Cambiaso, 
Baroccio,  Mantegna,  Bronzino,  Leo- 
nardo da  Vinci,  Passarotti ;  the  whole 
length  of  the  wall,  on  ;one  side  of 
this  gallery,  is  occupied  by  a  narrow 
series  of  drawings  of  the  bas-reliefs  on 
thecolumn  of  Trajan,  at  Rome,  executed 
by  Giuiio  Romano,  for  Alfonso  d'Este, 
Duke  of  Ferrara.  This  very  interest- 
ing treasure  of  the  Hotise  of  Este  was 
carried  to  Paris,  with  several  of  the 
paintings  in  the  gallery,  and  restored 
in  1815  to  their  rightful  owners. 

The  Biblioteca  Estense,  or  library, 
brought  from  Ferrara  byCesare  d'Este 
on  his  expulsion  by  Clement  VIII.,  is 
rich  in  books  (100,000  vols.)  and  manu- 
scripts (3000).  Three  of  the  most 
learned  men  in  Italy  during  the  last 
century,  Zaccaria,  Tiraboschi,  and  Mu- 
ratori,  have  been  its  librarians.  At- 
tached to  the  library  was  a  large  col- 
lection of  25,000  coins  and  medals,  but 
it  was  carried  off  by  the  Duke  of 
Modena,  on  being  driven  away  in 
1809)  as  well  as  12  very  valuable  illu> 


minated  MSS.;  those  of  the  Divina 
Commedia,  and  the  Bible,  amongst  the 
number,  and  a  few  of  the  most  valuable 
paintings  in  the  Galleria.  The  library 
is  well  arranged  and  very  available 
for  readers.  The  Archivio  Estense, 
containing  several  important  docu- 
ments of  mediaeval  history,  is  in  an- 
other part  of  the  palace. 


ROUTE  61. 

MODENA  TO  PISTOJA,  BY  BABIGAZZO 
AND  SAN  MARCELLO. 

This  is  a  long  dreary  road,  through 
a  country  offering  little  interest  except 
to  the  geologist.  It  traverses  the  cen- 
tral chain  of  the  Apennines  three  times. 
On  the  northern  side  of  the  Apennines 
it  was,  generally  speaking,  in  bad  im- 
pair where  it  runs  through  the  Mo- 
denese territory ;  the  contrary  being  the 
case  with  the  Tuscan  portion.  There 
are  no  post-horses ;  but  vetturini  some- 
times travel  by  it,  employing  two  days 
and  a  half  between  Pistoja  and  Modena; 
and  a  diligence  runs  3  times  a  week 
between  Modena  and  Pistoja,  perform- 
ing the  journey  in  a  day.  Were  it  kept 
in  better  repair  it  would  offer,  now  that 
the  railway  is  completed  between  Pis- 
toja and  Florence,  advantages  to  the 
traveller  going  from  Verona  and  the 
Italian  Tyrol  to  the  shores  of  the 
Mediterranean. 

The  road  leaves  Modena  by  the  Porta 
di  San  Francesco. 

'  Fot^migine,  a  town  of  1800  Inhab,,  is 
the  first  stage,  9  m.  from  Modena,  on 
the  plain,  in  a  district  rich  in  grain, 
vines,  and  mulberry-trees. 

Marinello,  5  m.  farther,  on  entering 
the  hilly  region. 

PauUo  or  PaviiUo,  a  town,  35  m, 
from  Modena.  The  Duke  of  Modena 
had  a  handsome  villa  near  this.  4  m» 
fUrther  on,  the  road,  which  had  hitherto 


468 


EoiUe  51. — Modena  to  Fistqja,' 


Sect.  VI. 


run  nearly  S.,  changes  its  direction  to 
W.S.W.,  turning  abruptly  round  the 
picturesque  hill  of 

Montecucvdhj  with  a  castle  on  the 
summit,  the  birthplace  (in  1609)  of  the 
celebrated  military  commander  Monte- 
cucuUi,  the  rival  of  Turenne  andJConde, 
A  dreary  road  of  15  m.,  through  a 
pasture  country,  leads  to 

BarigazzOy  a  small  hamlet,  near  to 
which  are  emanations  of  carburetted 
hydrogen  gas,  similar  to  those  near 
Pietramala,  on  the  road  from  Bologna 
to  Florence,  and  which  ignites  on  a 
light  being  applied  to  it.  Ascending 
along  the  Scoltenna  torrent  we  reach 

Pieve  Fekigo,  a  village  of  1800  Inhab., 
in  a  cold  inhospitable  region ;  and  7  m. 
higher  up  the  hamlet  of  Fiumalbo, 
Here  the  principal  ascent  of  the  Apen- 
nines commences,  having  the  Monte 
Cimone,  the  highest  peak  of  this  part 
of  the  chain,  about  4  m.  on  the  1.  The 
most  elevated  point  of  the  road  is  at 
the  Col  delV  Abbetone,  or  del  Libro 
Aperto.  Here  we  enter  the  Tuscan 
territory  (Pistoja  being  35  ra.  distant), 
and  after  a  rapid  descent  of  7  m.  reach 
*  Cutigliano,  a  village  of  1200  Inhab., 
on  the  Lima  river,  which  we  follow  as 
far  as 

San  Marcello,  a  prosperous  town  on 


the  Limastre.  There  are  several  paper- 
mills  in  the  neighbourhood.  A  road 
nearly  completed  will  lead  down  the 
ravine  of  the  Lima  to  the  Baths  of  ' 
Lucca.  There  is  a  road  of  22  m. 
through  a  beautiful  country  from  San 
Marcello  to  Pescia  by  Petiglio. 

From  San  Marcello  the  road  to  Pis- 
toja runs  easterly,  ascending  again  the 
central  chain  by  Bardelone,  to  descend 
to  Ponte  Petri,  a  village  near  the 
bridge  on  the  Reno,  not  far  from  its 
source.  Here  we  are  again  on  the  N. 
declivity  of  the  Apennines. 

From  Fonte  Fetri  (Pons  Presby- 
teris)  the  road  ascends  along  the 
Reno,  to  the  hamlet  of  Fiastre,  from 
which  a  good  road  runs  to  the  Rly. 
Stat,  at  Pracchia.  Piastre  is  near  the 
Pass  of  the  Apennines,  one  of  the  lowest 
in  the  chain,  2650  feet  above  Pistoja, 
from  which  commences  the  descent 
towards  the  plain  of  the  Arno,  passing 
through  the  neat  village  of  Cireglio^ 
and  following  the  declivity  of  the  ridge 
that  bounds  on  the  W.  the  valley  of  the 
Ombrone,  through  forests  of  chesnut- 
trees  succeeded  by  plantations  of  vines 
and  olives.  2  m.  before  reaching 
Pistoja  the  Ombrone  is  crossed  at 
Burgianico. 

Pistoja,    (See  Rte.  77.) 


(     469     ) 


SECTION  VII. 


LA  EOMAaNA. 


BOUTE 


KOITTES. 


PAGE      EOITTE 


PAGE 


56.  Mantua  to  Ferrara        .         .  470 

57.  Modena  to  Ferrara        .         .471 

58.  Padua  to  Ferrara^  by  Rovigo    471 

59.  Ferrara  to  Bologna,  by  Rail  .  486 

60.  Ferrara  to  Bologna,  by  Cento  487 

61.  Modena  to  JJo/ogwa — Kail      .  488 

62.  Bologna  to  Florence,  by  Pie- 

tramala  and  the  Pass  of  la 
Futa       .... 

63.  Bologna  to   Florence,  by  La 

Porreita — Rail  .  . 

64.  Faenza  to  Florence,  by  Mar- 

radi  and  Bcrgo  S.  Lorenzo  538 

65.  Florence  to  Forli,  by  L>ico- 

mano  and  the  Pass  of  S. 
Benedetto         •         .         •  539 


532 


534 


66.  Forli  to  Ravenna  .         .   540 

67.  Faenza  to  Ravenna       •         .  540 

68.  Bologna  to  Ravenna,  by  Imola 

and  Lugo         .  .         •   541 

69.  Bologna  to  Ravenna,  by  Me- 

dicina  and  Lugo       .         .   542 
69a.  Bologna  to  Bavenna,  by  Rail  542 

70.  Venice   to   Ravenna,   by  the 

Canals  and  Comacchio       .  565 

71.  Ravenna  to  Rimini,  by  Cervia   568 

72.  Bologna  to  the  Papal  Frontier, 

by  Imola,  Faenza,  Forli, 
Cesena,  Rimini,  with  Ex- 
cursion to  San  Marino — 
Rail        .         .         .         .569 


PRELIMINARY  INFORMATION. 
History. — Money. — Railroads, 

Under  the  name  of  Romagna  are  included  all  the  former  possessions  of  the 
Holy  See  on  the  northern  side  of  the  Apennines,  which  constituted,  in  the  most 
recent  division  of  the  Pontifical  States,  the  Legation  of  La  Romagna,  consist- 
ing of  the  four  Delegations,  now  Provinces,  of  Bologna,  Ferrara,  Ravenna,  and 
Forli.  This  territory,  one  of  the  most  luxuriant  in  Italy,  containing  a  popu- 
lation of  1,040,574,  extends  from  the  Duchy  of  Modena,  on  the  W.,  to  the 
Adriatic,  and  from  the  Po  to  the  N.  declivity  of  the  Apennines,  where  it 
limits  with  Tuscany. 

These  provinces,  which  had  been  acquired  at  different  times  by  the  popes, 
partly  by  cessions  from  Pepin  and  Charlemagne  (Ravenna),  partly  by  a  pre- 
tended suzerainty  over  some  of  their  feudal  rulers,  on  the  extinction  of  their 
families  in  the  male  line  (Ferrara),  and  others  by  violence,  as  in  the  case  of 
the  free  towns  of  Bologna,  Forli,  &c.,  formed  for  upwards  of  three  centuries 
Ihe  Northern  Legations  of  the  Holy  See. 

In  consequence  of  the  universal  discontent  that  reigned,  and  the  inability  of 
the  government  of  Rome  to  maintain  its  power  over  the  populations  without 
foreign  intervention,  the  assistance  of  Austria  had  been  resorted  to,  and, 
in  addition  to  the  garrisons  which  that  empire  was  authorized  to  maintain 
at  Ferrara  and  Comacchio  by  the  treaty  of  Vienna,  she  held  military  rule 
over  the  Romagna  from  1848"  until  1859,  exercising  a  degree  of  arbitrary  rule 
which  not  only  created  a  deadly  animosity  against  the  German  protectors  of 
the  Holy  See,   but   extreme  hatred  of  the  Papal  rule.      When,  therefore, 

N.  Italy— \9>m.  z 


470 


Eoute  56. — MarUtux  to  Ferrara. 


Sect.  vn. 


the  Austrian  protecting  force  was  obliged,  arising  out  of  the  military  events 
of  1859,  to  withdraw,  a  general  rising  against  the  pontifical  authorities  im- 
mediately followed.  Juntas  were  formed  in  all  the  larger  towns,  and  sub- 
sequently a  central  one  at  Bologna,  which,  during  a  period  of  considerable  diffi- 
culty, governed  the  Romagna  with  great  moderation  and  ability.  In  August, 
18.59,  a  parliament,  elected  by  universal  suffrage,  was  called  together  by  this 
governing  Junta,  which  met  on  the  2nd  of  September,  and  declared  unanimously 
their  separation  for  ever  from  the  government  of  Rome.  The  same  question 
having  been  re-submitted  to  universal  suffrage  on  the  12th  of  March,  I860, 
the  country  declared,  by  an  almost  unanimous  vote,  its  desire  to  form  a  part 
of  the  Italian  monarchy,  a  declaration  which  was  accepted  by  King  Victor 
Emanuel  and  the  parliament  then  sitting  at  Turin. 

The  territorial  divisions  of  the  Romagna  have  undergone  no  alteration 
since  its  annexation  to  the  kingdom  of  Italy,  consisting  of  the  four  provinces 
of  Bologna,  Ferrara,  Ravenna,  and  Forli. 

Money. — The  currency  is  the  decimal  one  of  the  kingdom  of  Italy. 

Railroads. — The  2  principal  lines  are — that  which  runs  parallel  to  the  Via 
Emilia  from  Piacenza  by  Parma  and  Bologna  to  Rimini  and  Ancona,  with 
branches  from  Bologna  to  Ferrara  and  the  Po,  and  from  Castel  Bolognese  to 
Ravenna ;  and  the  Railway  which  crosses  the  chain  of  the  Apennines,  ascending 
the  valley  of  the  Reno,  to  gain  the  Maria  Antonia  line  at  Pistoia  on  their 
southern  declivity ;  it  is  now  in  full  activity  in  its  entire  extent  from  Bologna 
to  Florence. 


EOUTES. 


ROUTE  56. 

HANTITA  TO  FERRARA. 

UILES. 

Mantua  to  Govemolo     ....  13 

Governolo  to  Sermide    ....  13 

Sermlde  to  Bondeno       ....  IS 

Bondeno  to  Ferrara 15 

56  Eng.  m. 

The  old  post-road  from  Mantua  to 
Ferrara  followed  that  to  Padua  as  far 
as  Nogara  (1  post),  whence  it  turned 
southward  to  Ostiglia,  crossing  the  Po 
between  it  and  Revere. 

The  present  route  follows  the  1.  bank 
of  the  Mincio  to  Govemolo,  near  where 
it  falls  into  the  Po. 

Ij  Govemolo.  Leaving  this  place, 
the  road  skirts  the  1.  bank  of  the  Po 
as  far  as  Ostiglia,  which  it  crosses  to 
Revere.  It  then  follows  the  rt.  bank, 
passing  by  Borgoforte,  as  far  as 

li  Sermide,  a  post  station.  8  m. 
farther   the    frontier  of   the  Austro- 


Italian  Provinces  is  passed  at  Quatrelle ; 
and  a  little  farther  on  is  Stellata,  the 
Italian  Custom-house,  where  passports 
and  luggage  are  examined.  From 
here  the  road  follows  the  1.  bank  of  the 
Panaro  to 

If  Bondeno,  a  town  on  the  L  bank 
of  the  Panaro,  formerly  a  fief  of  the 
house  of  Kste.  The  road  from  here  to 
Ferrara  lies  through  a  flat,  well -irri- 
gated country,  passing  along  the  canal 
or  Po  di  Volano,  by  Vigarano,  Cassana, 
and  Mizzana,  to 

If  Ferrara,  described  in  Rte.  .58. 


BOMAGNA.     Routes  67,  58. — Modena  and  Padua  to  Ferrara,  471 


ROUTE  57. 

MODENA  TO  FERBARA. 

UILES. 

Modena  to  Bomporto     ....  8 

Bomporto  to  Finale 16 

Finale  to  Bondeno 10 

Bondeno  to  Ferrara 15 

49  Eng.  m. 

The  road  follows  the  banks  of  the 
Panaro  for  the  first  3  posts. 

Bomporto.  From  here  it  proceeds 
through  Campo  Santo  and  Ck  de'  Coppi 
to 

Finale,  situated  on  either  side  of 
the  Panaro,  which  is  here  crossed.  3 
m.  farther  on  are  Serragliolo  and  Santa 
Bianca,  from  which  the  road  soon 
reaches  Bondeno,  where  it  falls  into  the 
post-road  from  Mantua.    (Rte.  5G.) 

Bondeno.  From  here  we  follow  the 
bank  of  the  Po  di  Volano  to 

Ferrara  (Rte.  .58). 


ROUTE  68. 

PADUA  TO  FERBARA,  BT  BOTIGO. 

AUST.  POSTS. 

Padna  to  Monselice l| 

Monselice  to  Rovigo l| 

Rovigo  to  Polesella  .....     1 
Polesella  to  Sta.  Maria  Maddalena.     1 
Ponte  di  Lago  Scuro  to  Ferrara,  5  kil.  3  m. 
by  Ewy. 

About  50  m. 

For  first  part  of  this  Route  see  Rtes. 
32  and  33. 

The  road  between  Padua  and  Ro- 
vigo follows  the  line  of  the  canals, 
and  in  its  interesting  character  con- 
trasts with  the  monotonous  flat  which 
extends  southward  as  far  as  Bologna. 


Before  arriving  at  Rovigo  the  Adige  is 
crossed  by  a  bridge  ;  and  between  it  and 
Ferrara  the  Po  is  passed  in  a  ferry-boat. 
The  height  of  the  embankments  neces- 
sary to  restrain  the  inundations  of  the  Po 
will  convince  the  traveller  how  much 
Ferrara  and  its  plains  are  at  the  mercy  of 
that  river,  the  level  of  which  is  higher 
than  the  roofs  of  many  of  the  houses 
in  that  city.  The  Austrian  frontier 
station  and  Dogana  is  at  Sta.  Maria 
Maddalena,  and  the  Italian  at  Ponte  di 
LagoscurOj  on  the  S.  side  of  the  river, 
called  the  "  Port  of  the  Po,"  from  the 
considerable  commerce  it  maintains 
with  Lombardy  in  com  and  wine, 
which  are  brought  here  for  shipment. 
The  Pamfilio  Canal  extends  from  Ponte 
di  Lagoscuro  to  the  Porta  S.  Benedetto 
at  Ferrara,  distant  3  m.  The  rly. 
from  Ponte  de  Lago  Sacro  runs  over 
a  perfect  fiat  for  3  m. ;  the  Rly.  Stat,  at 
Ferrara  is  outside  the  Porta  del  Po  (5 
min.),  and  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour's 
walk  from  the  Cathedral.  Omnibuses 
from  the  principal  hotels  and  plenty  of 
cabs— fare  1  franc. 

Ferrara,  the  Forum  Allieni  of 
Tacitus.  —  (/nns:  La  Stella  d'Oro, 
clean,  and  good,  opposite  the  Castle: 
Albergo  dell*  Europa,  opposite  the  Post 
Office.)  Few  cities  ranking  among 
the  ancient  Italian  capitals  are  so 
much  neglected  by  travellers  as  Fer- 
rara, and  yet  few  are  more  asso- 
ciated with  interesting  recollections. 
It  is  situated  in  a  fertile  but  unhealthy 
plain,  at  a  level  of  only  G^  ft.  above 
the  sea,  and  at  a  short  distance  from 
the  Po,  which  forms  here  the  boundary 
between  the  Austro- Venetian  and  the 
North-Italian  kingdoms.  This  plain, 
intersected  only  by  irrigation  canals 
from  the  river,  presents  an  unbroken 
horizon,  and  extends,  with  little  varia- 
tion, up  to  the  walls  of  Ferrara. 

The  aspect  of  the  city,  once  the  re- 
sidence of  a  court  celebrated  through- 
out Europe,  still  retains  many  traces 
of  its  ancient  grandeur.  The  broad, 
and  ample  streets  appear  like  those 
of  a  deserted  capital;  grass  grows 
on  the  pavement,  the  palaces  are 
falling  into  decay,  and  tne  walls,  7 
miles  in  circuit,  which  once  contained 
nearly    100,000    souls,    now    enclose 

z  2 


472 


Boute  68. — Ferrara — School  of  Art, 


Sect.  vn. 


scarcely  one-third  of  that  number. 
The  population  is  collected  together 
in  the  centre  of  the  city,  and  thinly 
scattered  over  the  remaining  portion. 
Ravenna  itself  is  scarcely  more  fallen 
than  Ferrara,' although  it  was  the  great 
commercial  emporium  of  Italy  during 
the  middle  ages,  the  citta  bene  avven- 
turosa  of  Ariosto,  the  gran  donna  del 
Po  of  Tassoni. 

The  modem  city  is  supposed  to  have 
been  founded  in  the  5th  century,  when 
the  invasion  of  the  Huns  and  the  de- 
struction of  Aquileja  drove  the  inha- 
bitants into  the  marshes  for  security. 
Its  walls  were  built  in  the  6th  cen- 
tury by  the  Exarchs  of  Ravenna,  and 
it  was  raised  to  the  rank  of  a  city  in 
661,  when  the  bishopric  of  Vigovenza 
was  transferred  to  it.  But  the  chief 
interest  of  Ferrara  arises  from  its  con- 
nection with  the  house  of  Este.  As 
far  back  as  the  10th  century  we  find 
this  family  connected  with  Ferrara; 
first  as  supreme  magistrates,  and  after- 
wards as  hereditary  princes  (1240), 
acknowledging  generally  the  suze- 
rainty of  the  Pope,  though  some- 
times asserting  their  independence.  It 
remained  under  their  sway  until  the 
extinction  of  the  legitimate  branch  in 
1597,  in  the  person  of  Alfonso  II.; 
and  in  the  following  year  it  was  annexed 
to  the  States  of  the  Church  by  Clement 
VIII.,  on  the  pretext  that  Cesare  d'Este, 
the  representative  of  the  family  by  a  col- 
lateral line,  was  disqualified  by  illegiti- 
macy. During  the  1 6  th  centy.  the  Court 
of  Ferrara  was  unsurpassed  by  any 
in  Europe  for  its  refinement  and 
intelligence;  its  University  was  re- 
nowned throughout  Christendom,  and  so 
many  English  students  were  collected 
within  its  walls  as  to  form,  as  they  did 
in  Bologna,  a  distinct  nation  in  that 
learned  body.  But  there  are  greater 
names  associated  with  the  history  of 
Ferrara  at  this  period  than  those  of  its 
princely  sovereigns.  "Melancholy  as 
the  city  looks  now,  every  lover  of 
Italian  poetry,"  says  Forsyth,  "must 
view  with  affection  the  retreat  of  an 
Ariosto,  a  Tasso,  a  Guarini.  Such  is 
the  ascent  of  wealth  over  genius,  that 
one  or  two  princes  could  create  an 
Athens  in  the  midst  of  this  Bceotia. 


The  little  courts  of  Ferrara  and  Urbino 
seemed  to  emulate  those  of  Alexan- 
dria and  Pergamos,  contending  for  pre- 
eminence only  in  literature  and  ele- 
gance." 

The    Ferrara    School    of   Painting, 
founded  and  patronised  by  the   Este 
family,  deserves  some  notice  in  con- 
nection with  this  tribute  to  the  intellec- 
tual history  of  the  city.    It  is  observed 
by  Lanzi  that  Ferrara  boasts  of  a  series 
of  excellent  painters,  far  superior  to    i 
its  fortunes  and  population ;  a  circum- 
stance which  will  not  excite  surprise 
when  we  consider  the  series  of  poets 
which  it  cherished,  from  Bojardo  and 
Ariosto  down  to  our  own  times,  a  sure 
criterion  of  accomplished  and  refined 
minds  more  than  ordinarily  disposed 
towards  the  fine  arts.      To  this  cir- 
cumstance, and  to  the  good  taste  of 
the  inhabitants  in  their  patronage  of 
art,  may  be  added  the  favourable  posi- 
tion of  the  city,  in  its  contiguity   to 
Venice,  Parma,  and  Bologna,  and  its 
convenient  distance  from  Florence  and 
Rome;   so  that  its  students  were  en- 
abled   to    select    from    the    different 
schools  of  Italy  what  was  most  con- 
genial to  the  tastes  of  each,  and  to 
profit    by    their    several    excellences. 
So  great,  indeed,  was  the  influence  of 
this  latter  circumstance,  that  Zanetti 
considered  it  doubtful  whether,  after  the 
5  great  schools,  Ferrara  did  not  claim 
precedence  over  all  the  others.    The 
first  fact  recorded  in  connection  with 
the  fine  arts  at  Ferrara.  is  the  commis- 
sion given  by  Azzo  d'Este,  in  1242, 
to   the   Venetian    painter    Gelasio    di 
Niccol6,  a  pupil  of  the   Greek  artist 
Teofane  of  Constantinople,  for  a  pic- 
ture of  the  Fall  of  Phaeton.     In  the 
14th    century,    when    Giotto    passed 
through    Ferrara,    on    his  way  from 
Verona  to  Florence,  he  was  employed 
by  the  Duke  to  paint  some  frescoes  in 
his  palace  and  in  the  church  of  St. 
Agostino,  which  were  still  in  existence 
in  the  time  of  Vasari.    After  the  lapse 
of  some  years,  during  which  several 
names  are  mentioned  which  have  sur- 
vived  their   works,    Galasso    Galassi 
appeared  early  in    the  15th  century; 
his  works  are  chiefly  confined  to  Bo- 
logna, and  none  are  now  found  in  his 


Moute  68. — Ferrtira. 


474 


Hottte  58. — Ferrara — School  of  Art.  Sect.  VIL 


native  city.  He  was  followed  by  An- 
tonio da  Ferrara,  known  by  his  works 
at  Urbino  and  Citt^  di  Castello,  who 
painted  some  chambers  in  the  palace 
of  Alberto  d'Este  in  1438,  at  the  time 
when  the  General  Council  was  held 
there  for  the  union  of  the  Greek  and 
Latin  churches,  and  which  is  sup- 
posed to  have  supplied  him  with  his 
subject.  But  the  most  celebrated  of 
the  earljr  painters  was  Cosimo  Tura, 
the  pupil  of  Galassi,  employed  at  the 
court  of  Borso  d'Este :  his  minute  and 
elaborate  work  is  admirably  shown 
in  the  miniatures  of  the  choir-books 
preserved  in  the  cathedral.  Among 
the  painters  of  this  period  may  be 
mentioned  Ijorenzo  Costa,  the  reputed 
pupil  of  Francia,  and  Francesco  Cossa, 
both  known  by  their  works  at  Bologna. 
Costa,  indeed,  may  be  regarded  as  the 
true  father  of  the  school ;  for  the  series 
of  painters  from  his  time  may  be  clearly 
traced;  andLanzi  classes  him  among  the 
first  masters  of  Italy.  His  most  eminent 
pupil  was  Ercole  Grandi,  whose  great 
work,  painted  for  the  Garganelli  chapel, 
is  now  preserved  in  the  Academy  of  Fine 
Arts  at  Bologna.  Lodovico  Mazzolini, 
better  known  as  Mazzolini  da  Ferrara, 
another  pupil  of  Costa,  is  known  by  his 
works  in  various  galleries ;  and  Dome- 
nico  Panetti,  the  master  of  Garofalo, 
is  remarkable  for  having  become  the 
pupil  of  his  own  scholar,  and  for  the 
works  he  produced  after  his  style  had 
been  remodelled  on  the  example  of 
Garofalo.  The  school  of  Ferrara  was 
at  its  height  imder  the  latter  painter 
and  the  two  Dossis,  in  the  early  part  of 
the  sixteenth  century,  when  Alfonso 
d'Este  was  the  patron  of  literature  and 
art.  This  prince  had  invited  Titian  to 
decorate  his  palace ;  and,  among  other 
celebrated  paintings,  the  "  Cristo  della 
Moneta,"  now  in  the  Dresden  Gallery, 
was  painted  during  his  stay  at  Ferrara. 
Dosso  Dossi,  and  his  brother  Giobat- 
tista,  bom  at  Dosso,  in  the  vicinity  of 
Ferrara,  were  among  the  earliest  patron- 
ised by  Alfonso  and  his  successor  Ercole 
II. ;  and  their  merit  is  sufficiently  at- 
tested by  the  fact  that  Ariosto  has  men- 
tioned them  as  amongst  the  best  painters 
of  Italy.  Ortolano  is  another  painter 
of  this  school,  whose  works  are  often 


confounded  with  those  of  Garofalo ;  he 
is  known  as  a  successful  imitator  of 
Raphael ;  some  of  his  works  are  yet 
seen  in  his  native  city.     Benvenuto 
Tisio,  better  known  by  the  name  of 
Garofalo,    from   the  pink   which    he 
introduced  into  his  paintings,  stands 
at  the  head  of  the  Ferrarese  school^ 
and  is   justly  called  the  Raphael  of 
Ferrara :  some  of  his  most  celebrated 
works    are    still    here.      His    pupil, 
Girolamo  da  Carpi,  recommended   to 
Ercole  II.  by  Titian  himself,  and  whose 
oil  paintings  were  of  extreme  rarity 
in  the  time  of  Lanzi,  may  also  be 
studied  at  Ferrara.     While  these  two 
artists  excelled  in  the  graces  of  the 
art,  Bastianino,  or  Bastiano  Filippi,  was 
introducing  the  style  of  Michel  An- 
gelo,  as  seen  in  the  grand  picture  of 
8ie   Last  Judgment  in  the  cathedral. 
Another  painter  of  this  school.  Scar- 
sellino,  who  was  called  the  Paul  Ve- 
ronese of  Ferrara,   and  who  studied 
under  that  master,  has  left  some  works 
in  his  native  place;  he  is,   however, 
better  known  by  those  preserved  in  the 
galleries  at  Rome.   Giuseppe  Mazzuoli, 
known  by  the  surname  of  Bastaruolo, 
and  the  contemporary  of  Bastianino,  was 
called  the  Titian  of  Ferrara :  we  shall 
hereafter  see  that  he  has  left  behind  him. 
several  works  by  which  his  claim  to  that 
title  may  be  appreciated.   Ferrara  like- 
wise contains  some  interesting  examples 
of  Domenico  Mona,  and  of  his  able  pupil 
Giulio  Cromer,   or  Croma,   who   was 
selected  to  copy  the  principal  paint- 
ings in  the  city,  when  the  originals 
were  transferred  to  Rome,  after  Cle- 
ment VIII.  had  seized  upon  Ferrara 
and  attached  it  to  the  Church.    After 
this  event  the  school  rapidly  declined 
for    want   of  patronage.     Some    Bo- 
lognese    masters    endeavoured,     with 
little  success,  to  introduce  the  style 
of  the    Caracci;    Carlo   Bonone,   the 
scholar   of   Bastaruolo,    was   perhaps 
the  most  celebrated  follower  of  this 
new  manner ;  his  works  in  Sta.  Maria 
in  Vado  are  highly  praised  by  Lanzi  for 
that  kind  of  foreshortening  called  di 
sotto  in  8u,  where  figures  are  supposed 
to  be  seen  above  the  eye.  Another  artist, 
worthy   of  mention   as  a  follower  of 
Bonone,  is  Chenda,  or  Alfonso  Rivaroiat 


EOMAQiJA. 


Eoute  58. — Ferrara — Reformation. 


47.5 


irho  was  employed,  at  the  recommen- 
dation of  Gnido,  to  finish  some  of 
Bonone's  works,  but  was  better  known 
by  his  decorations  for  public  spectacles 
and  tournaments.  It  is  unnecessary  to 
enumerate  any  of  the  painters  whose 
names  appear  in  the  subsequent  history 
of  this  school,  for  Ferrara  never  reco- 
vered the  change  of  masters;  and  its 
school  gradually  declined,  until,  at 
length,  in  spite  of  the  establishment  of 
an  academy,  it  became  completely  ex- 
tinct. Notwithstanding,  however,  this 
decline  and  the  loss  of  its  political 
influence,  Ferrara  still  retains  many 
interesting  examples  of  the  school, 
which  will  be  noticed  in  our  description 
of  the  city. 

In  addition  to  the  brilliancy  of  its 
court  and  the  celebrity  of  its  school 
of  art,  Ferrara  offers  no  inconsiderable 
interest  to  the  English  traveller  for  the 
impulse  which  it  gave  to  the  Reforma- 
tion. The  names  of  Ariosto  and  Tasso 
have  almost  eclipsed  the  recollection  of 
that  event,  and  of  the  asylum  given  to 
Calvin  and  to  Marot  by  the  Duchess 
Ben^e,  the  high-minded  daughter  of 
Louis  XII.,  and  the  wife  of  Ercole  II. 
At  an  early  period  Ferrara  afforded  pro- 
tection to  numerous  friends  of  the  Re- 
formed Faith  who  fled  from  other  parts 
of  Italy,  and  even  from  countries  be- 
yond the  Alps,  a  circumstance  to  be 
ascribed  to  the  influence  of  the  ac- 
complished princess  just  mentioned, 
who  had  become  acquainted  with  the 
doctrines  of  the  Reformers  previous  to 
her  departure  from  France  in  1527,  by 
means  of  some  of  those  learned  persons 
who  frequented  the  court  of  Margaret 
Queen  of  Navarre.  "  The  first  persons 
to  whom  she  extended  her  protection 
and  hospitality  were  her  own  country- 
men, whom  the  violence  of  persecution 
had  driven  out  of  France.  Mad.  de  Sou- 
bise,  the  governess  of  the  duchess,  had 
introduced  several  men  of  letters  into 
the  court  of  France  during  the  late  reign. 
She  DOW  resided  at  the  court  of  Ferrara, 
along  with  her  son,  Jean  de  Parthenai, 
sieur  de  Soubise,  afterwards  a  principal 
leader  of  the  Protestant  party  in  France; 
her  daughter,  Anne  de  Parthenai,  dis- 
tinguished for  her  elegant  taste;  and 
the  future  husband  of  this  young  lady. 


Antoiue  de  Pons,  Count  de  Marennes, 
who  adhered  to  the  reformed  cause  until 
the  death  of  his  wife.  In  the  year  1 534 
the  celebrated  French  poet  Clement 
Marot  fled  from  his  native  country,  in 
consequence  of  the  persecution  excited 
by  the  affair  of  the  placards ;  and,  after 
residing  for  a  short  time  at  the  court 
of  the  Queen  of  Navarre,  in  Beam, 
came  to  Ferrara.  He  was  recommended 
by  Madame  de  Soubise  to  the  duchess, 
who  made  him  her  secretary ;  and  his 
friend  Lyon  Jamet,  finding  it  necessary 
soon  after  to  join  him,  met  with  a 
reception  equally  gracious.  About  the 
same  time  the  celebrated  reformer 
John  Calvin  visited  Ferrara,  where  he 
spent  some  months  under  the  assumed 
name  of  Charles  Heppeville.  He  re- 
ceived the  most  distinguished  attention 
from  the  duchess,  who  was  confirmed 
in  the  Protestant  faith  by  his  instruc- 
tions, and  ever  after  retained  the  highest 
respect  for  his  character  and  talents." 
Among  the  other  learned  personages 
assembled  here  at  this  time  was  Fulvio 
Peregrino  Morata,  who  had  been  tutor 
to  the  two  younger  brothers  of  the 
duke,  and  who  became  still  more  cele- 
brated as  the  father  of  Olvmpia  Morata, 
the.  most  enlightened  j^male  of  her 
age;  who  first  "acquired  during  her 
residence  in  the  ducal  palace  that 
knowledge  of  the  gospel  which  sup- 
ported her  mind  under  the  privations 
and  hardships  which  she  afterwards 
had  to  endure." 

The  description  of  Ariosto,  and  the 
testimony  of  numerous  contemporary 
authorities,  proves  that,  under  the  sway 
of  the  house  of  Este,  Ferrara  was 
one  of  the  great  commercial  cities  of 
Italy.  Its  trade  began  to  decline  in 
the  16th  century,  and,  although  it 
has  been  much  reduced  even  since 
that  period,  the  city  still  carries  on  a 
considerable  traffic  m  agricultural  pro- 
duce. A  great  deal  of  business  was  for- 
merly done  here  in  hemp,  of  which  large 
quantities  found  its  way  into  the 
English  dockyards,  the  Ferrara  growth 
being  considered  the  best  for  cordage  ; 
but,  from  the  heavy  export  duties  and 
other  circumstances,  the  trade  has 
considerably  declined.  The  high  du- 
ties   on    manufactured    articles    have 


^   I 


476 


Eoute  58. — Ferrara — Cathedral, 


Sect.  VIT. 


thrown  the  foreign  trade  into  the 
hands  of  the  Swiss  and  the  mer- 
chants of  Lombardy,  and  the  circulating 
capital  is  to  a  great  extent  in  those 
of  the  Jews,  who  are  in  Ferrara  a  very 
opulent  body;  their  number  is  about 
3000.  They  inhabited  until  lately,  as 
in  all  the  other  Papal  cities,  a  distinct 
quarter,  the  ghetto,  or  Jewry;  it  was 
formerly  usual,  as  at  Borne  and  other 
places^  to  lock  them  iu  at  night ;  here, 
however,  their  importance  has  ex- 
empted them  from  the  observance  of 
that  degrading  regulation.  At  the 
present  time  Ferrara  is  the  capital 
of  a  province  comprehending  199,158 
inhabitants  ;  the  population  of  the  city 
and  suburbs  is  31,184."'  In  spite  of 
their  deserted  appearance,  the  effect 
of  its  broad  and  handsome  streets  is 
particularly  imposing ;  that  of  the  Corso 
di  Po,  by  which  the  city  is  entered  from 
the  Rwy.,  is  Ij  m.  in  length;  and  its 
palaces,  though  many  of  them  are  di- 
lapidated, have  an  air  of  grandeur  in 
accordance  with  the  former  celebrity  of 
the  city. 

The  Cathedral  was  consecrated  in 
1135;  its  Gothic  exterior,  with  few 
exceptions,  belongs  to  that  period, 
but  the  interior  has  been  altered  and 
spoiled  by  modern  renovations.  The 
front  is  divided  by  buttresses  capped 
by  turrets  into  3  equal  portions,  each 
surmounted  with  a  gable  containing 
a  wheel  window,  and  ornamented  with 
a  double  range  of  pointed  arches.  The 
porch  is  composed  of  a  semicircular 
arch  supported  by  columns  ;  the  side 
doors  have  also  semicircular  arches. 
The  rude  bas-reliefs  with  which  this 
part  is  covered  are  in  a  good  state  of 
preservation ;  they  represent  the  Last 
Judgment,  various  events  in  the  life 
of  Christ,  the  seven  Mortal  Sins,  with 
numerous  sacred,  profane,  and  gro- 
tesque emblems.  Over  the  right-hand 
door  is  a  colossal  marble  bust  of  Donna 
Ferrara,    the    sister    of  tlie    founder 


*  These  numbers,  as  all  others  respecting  the 
population  of  the  former  States  of  the  Church, 
&c.,  given  in  this  volume,  are  taken  from  the 
last  official  returns  published  by  the  Govern- 
ment in  1857,  made  up,  however,  only  to  the 
end  of  1853. 


of  the  church,  and  on  the  same  side 
a  statue  of  Alberto  d'Este,  in  the  pil- 
grim's dress  in  which  he  returned 
from  Rome  in  1390,  laden  with  bulls 
and  indulgences.  Over  the  central 
door  is  a  bas-relief  of  St  George  and 
the  Dragon,  and  higher  up  the  long 
venerated  miraculous  statue  of  the  Vir- 
gin attributed  to  Nicolo  da  Pisa. 

The  double  range  of  small  arches  is 
continued  round  the  flanks  of  the  edi- 
fice, and  at  the  S.E.  extremity  is  the 
huge  Campanile,  composed  of  4  tiers  of 
high  round  arches  and  built  of  blocks 
of  Verona  marble^  erected  by  Duke 
Ercole  II. 

The  interior,  in  the  form  of  a  Greek 
cross,  had  been  modernised  at  various 
times ;  the  semicircular  choir  was  first 
added  in  1499,  by  Rosette,  a  native 
architect,  known  as  one  of  the  earliest 
restorers  of  Italian  architecture ;  the 
portion  beyond  the  transept  dates  from 
1 637,  and  the  remainder  from  between 
1712  and  1735.  There  are  several 
paintings  worthy  of  notice.  The  As- 
sumption, the  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul,  in 
the  rt.  transept,  and  the  Virgin  en- 
throned with  Saints,  are  by  Garqfalo. 
The  chapel  of  the  Holy  Sacrament  con- 
tains some  sculptures  of  angels,  &c. ; 
and  in  another  chapel  good  specimens 
of  statues  in  wood  of  SS.  George  and 
Maurilius  with  the  Virgin,  by  Andrea 
Ferreri,  an  artist  of  the  last  centuiy ; 
the  altarpiece  is  by  Parolini,  a  native 
painter  (1733),  whom  Lanzi  describes 
as  **  I'ultimo  nel  cui  sepolcro  si  sia 
inciso  elogio  di  buon  pittore ;  con  lui 
fu  sepolta  per  allora  la  gloria  della 
pittura  Ferrarese.*'  On  the  vault  of 
the  choir  is  the  Last  Judgment,  by 
Bastianinoy  one  of  the  favourite  pupils 
and  the  best  copyist  of  Michel  Angelo. 
Lanzi  says  that  it  occupied  him  three 
years  in  painting,  and  describes  it  as  "so 
near  to  that  of  Michael  Angelo  in  the 
Sistine  Chapel,  that  the  whole  Floren- 
tine school  has  nothing  to  compare 
with  it.  It  is  characterised,"  he  says, 
"  by  grandeur  of  design,  a  great  variety 
of  figures,  a  good  disposition  of  the 
groups,  and  by  the  pleasing  repose 
which  it  presents  to  the  eye  of  the 
spectator.  It  seems  Impossible  that  in 
a  subject  already  occupied  by  Buonar- 


KoMAaNA. 


Boute  58. — Ferrara — Churches. 


477 


roti,  Filippo  should  have  had  the 
power  of  showing  himself  so  original 
and  so  ^nd.  We  see  that,  like  all 
true  imitators,  he  copied  not  the  fi- 
gures, but  the  spirit  and  the  genius  of 
his  example/'  Like  Dante  and  Michel 
Angelo,  Bastianino  availed  himself  of 
the  opportunity  to  put  his  friends 
among  the  elect,  and  his  enemies 
among  the  damned;  the  picture  con- 
sequently contains  numerous  portraits 
of  both.  Among  the  latter  are 
pointed  out  the  young  woman  who 
refused  his  hand,  while  the  one  whom 
he  married  is  placed  among  the  blessed, 
and  is  seen  maliciously  gazing  at  her 
early  rival.  It  is  much  to  be  re- 
gretted that  recent  attempts  to  restore 
this  fine  work  have  injured  the  effect 
of  the  original  colouring.  The  seventh 
chapel  contains  another  painting  by 
the  same  master,  the  St.  Catherine, 
called  by  Lanzi  "la  gran  tavola  di 
S.  Caterina."  The  Annunciation  and 
the  St.  George  in  the  4th  chapel 
on  1.,  are  by  Cosimo  Tura,  the  painter 
of  the  23  choir-books  presented  by 
Bishop  Bartolommeo  della  Rovere,  the 
execution  of  which  has  been  so  highly 
prized  as  to  be  preferred  by  many 
to  that  of  the  famous  miniatures 
in  the  Library  of  Siena.  On  an 
adjoining  altar  are  5  bronze  statues 
representing  the  Saviour  on  the  Cross, 
the  Virgin,  St.  John,  and  St.  George,  by 
Bindelh  and  Marexotti,  much  admired 
by  Donatello.  Over  the  sixth  altar 
on  the  left  is  a  Coronation  of  the 
Virgin,  by  Franciay  a  very  beautiful 
work.  On  the  wall  of  the  choir  is 
the  sepulchral  memorial  of  Pope  Urban 
III.,  who  died  of  grief  here  in  1187, 
on  hearing  of  the  reverses  of  the  second 
crusade,  previous  to  the  fall  of  Jeru- 
salem ;  that  of  Lilio  Gregorio  Giraldi, 
the  celebrated  mythologist,  has  been 
removed  to  the  Campo  Santo ;  the  in- 
scription on  the  tablet,  dated  1550,  and 
written  by  himself,  records  the  poverty 
which  excited  the  compassion  of  Mon- 
taigne, 

"NMl 
Opus  ferente  Apolline; " 

but,  in  spite  of  his  complaints,  it  ap- 
pears from  Tiraboschi  that  he  was  as- 


sisted by  the  Duchess  Kenee,  and  that 
he  left  at  his  death  a  sum  of  10,000 
crowns. 

The  Ch.  ofS.  Andrea,  near  the  Mon- 
tagnone,  the  Promenade  of  Ferrara,  at 
the  S.E.  extremity  of  the  city,  con- 
tained several  good  pictures,  the  greater 
number  of  which  have  been  removed 
to  the  Pinacoteca:  the  Virgin  Throned, 
with  saints,  by  Garofalo^  3rd  chapel  on 
rt.,  is  supposed  by  some  to  have  been  ex- 
ecuted with  the  assistance  of  Raphael. 
In  the  refectory  was  the  grand  alle- 
gorical picture  by  Garof'alo,  represent- 
ing the  Victory  of  the  New  Testament 
over  the  Old,  now  in  the  Pinacotheca, 

TTie  Ch,  and  Monastery  of  San 
Benedetto,  near  the  Porta  di  Po, 
classed  among  the  finest  buildings  of 
Ferrara,  have  suffered  more  vicissi- 
tudes than  perhaps  any  other  edifice 
in  the  city.  The  monastery  was  occu- 
pied as  barracks  by  Austrian,  Russian, 
and  French  troops,  and  was  afterwards 
converted  into  a  military  hospital ;  the 
church,  during  the  political  troubles  of 
the  early  part  of  this  centy.,  was  closed, 
and  was  only  reopened  for  divine  service 
in  1 8 1 2 .  It  was  formerly  celebrated  for 
the  tomb  of  Ariosto,  transferred  to  the 
public  library  by  the  French  in  1801 ; 
and  for  some  fine  paintings  of  the  school 
of  Ferrara  which  it  still  retains.  The 
most  remarkable  of  these  are  Christ 
on  the  Cross,  with  St.  John  and  other 
Saints,  by  Dosso  Dossi ;  the  Mar- 
tyrdom of  St.  Catherine,  by  Scar^ 
sellino,  one  of  his  finest  works ;  a  Cir- 
cumcision, in  the  rt.  transept,  by  Luca 
Longhly  of  Ravenna ;  and  an  Assump- 
tion of  the  Virgin,  in  the  left,  by  Scar- 
sellino.  The  4  Doctors  of  the  Church, 
in  the  2nd  chapel  on  1.,  and  the  St.  Mark 
in  that  next  to  it,  by  Guiseppe  Cremonesi 
(G.  Caletti),  are  much  praised  by  Lanzi, 
who  applies  the  epithet  "maraviglioso  " 
to  his  grand  and  expressive  figure  of 
St.  Mark,  and  extols  the  execution  of 
the  books,  whose  truth  and  nature 
gained  for  the  artist  the  title  of  the 
"  Painter  of  Books."  The  frescoes  on 
the  vault  and  cupolas  are  by  Vincenzo 
Veronese.  On  the  ceiling  of  the  vesti- 
bule of  the  refectory  is  a  painting  of 
Paradise,  with  a  choir  of  angels,  by 
pupils  of  Dosso  Dossi.     Ariosto  was 

z  3 


478 


Soute  58. — Ferrata — Church&s, 


Sect.  vn. 


60  enamoared  of  thu  work,  that  he  re- 
quested Dossi  himself  to  introduce  his 
portrait,  being  desirous,  he  said,  of 
securing  a  place  in  that  paradise,  since 
he  was  not  very  sure  of  reaching  the 
real  one.  This  was  accordingly  done, 
and  Ariosto's  is  seen  between  the  figures 
of  St.  Sebastian  and  St.  Catherine. 
About  the  middle  of  the  last  centy.  the 
bust  which  surmounted  the  tomb  of 
Ariosto  was  struck  by  lightning,  and  a 
crown  of  iron  laureU  which  surrounded 
it  was  melted  away ;  an  incident  which 
Lord  Byron  has  happily  embodied  in 
his  well-known  stanza : — 

"  The  lightning  rent  from  Ariosto'e  bust 
The  iron  crown  of  laorel's  mimick'd  leaves ; 
Nor  was  the  ominous  element  ni^just, 
For  the  true  laurel-wreath  which  Glory  weaves 
Is  of  the  tree  no  bolt  of  thunder  cleaves. 
And  the  false  semblance  but  disgraced  his  brow; 
Yet  still,  if  fondly  Superstition  grieves, 
Know,  that  the  lightning  sanctifies  below ' 
Whate'er  it  strikes ; — yon  head  is  doubly  sa- 
cred now." 

The  monument  of  Ariosto  stood  in 
the  chapel  on  rt.  of  the  choir,  replaced 
by  a  represeutation  in  painting  of  it. 

The  Ch.ofthe  Campo  SantOy  whose 

fine  architecture  is  attributed  to  San- 

sovino,   is    decorated  with  sculptures 

by  that  celebrated  artist.      The  twelve 

chapels  are  remarkable  for  as  many 

paintings  of  the  Mysteries  by  Niccolb 

Mosselli,   classed,    doubtfully,    among 

the  Ferrarese  school  by   Lanzi,  who 

mentions    these   works   as    imitations 

of  the  style  of  Garofalo,  Bagnacavallo, 

and  others.    The  Nativity  is  by  Dielai ; 

the  S.  Christopher,  by  Baslianinoy  is 

mentioned  with  the  highest  praise  by 

Lanzi ;  the  Descent  of  the  Holy  Ghost, 

and  the  Deposition  from  the  Cross,  are 

by  Bastaruolo ;  the  Last  Supi)er,  by 

Cignaroli ;    and    the   Decollation    of 

John  the  Baptist,  by  Parolini.     The 

adjoining    Campo  Santo  occupies  the 

gardens  and  cloisters  of  the  Convent  of 

la  Certosa.     The  cloisters    are   now 

covered  with    sepulchral  monuments, 

and  the  cells  of  the  monks  converted 

into  mortuary  chapels.      Among   the 

tombs  are  those  of  Borso  d'Este,  first 

Duke  of  Ferrara,  the  founder  of  the 

monastery  ;  of  Duke  Venanziano  Va- 

rano  and  his  wife,  by  Rinaldini;  of 

Lilio    Giraldi,    the    mythologist,    by 


Lomhardiy  removed  from  the  cathedral ; 
of  the  wife  of  Count  Leopoldo  Cioog- 
nara;  and  of  the  Bernardino  Barbulejo, 
or  Barbojo,  said  to  have  been  the 
preceptor  of  Ariosto;  &c.  Amongst 
the  other  works  of  art  in  the  cemetery 
may  be  noticed,  the  bust  of  Cicognara, 
Canova's  last  work ;  the  tombs  of 
Count  Mosti,  by  Tadolini;  and  of 
Count  Costabile  by  Tenerani,  and  the 
monument  of  Garofalo,  containing  his 
ashes,  brought  from  the  ch.  of  Sta. 
Maria  in  Vado.  Forming  the  entrance 
to  one  of  the  chapels  is  a  beautiful 
doorway  by  Sansovino ;  another  chapel, 
intended  to  contain  monuments  of  illus- 
trious Ferrarese,  contains  good  statues 
of  Monti  and  Varano  by  Ferari,  a  native 
artist  of  merit. 

The  Ch,  of  St.  Maurelius  attached  to 
the  Capuchin  Convent y  in  the  Corso  di 
Po,  has  some  good  paintings  :  the 
Virgin  Throned,  with  saints ;  a  similar 
subject,  with  Capuchin  nuns,  both  by 
Scarsellino ;  S.  Christopher  and  S.  An- 
tony the  Abbot,  S.  Dominick,  and  S. 
Francis,  in  the  sacristy,  by  Bononi. 

The  Ch.  of  the  Convent  of  the  Corpus 
Domini,  seldom  open,  has  some  tombs 
of  the  d*Este  family ;  that  of  Lucrezia 
Borgia  was  said  to  be  among  them,  but 
there  is  no  authority  for  the  statement. 

The  Ch,ofS.  Cristqfero  (gli  Esposti) 
contains  a  remarkable  painting  by  Costa, 
the  Virgin  and  Child,  with  St.  Louis 
and  St.  Roch.  ^ 

The  Ch.  of  San  DomenicOy  a  large 
edifice  in  the  Piazza  dell  Oca,  behind 
the  castle,  is  remarkable  for  the  statues 
on  its  facade  by  Andrea  Ferreri,  and  for 
some  interestmg  works  of  Garofalo 
and  Carlo  Bononi ;  the  Martyrdom  of 
S.  Pietro  Martire,  by  Garofalo ;  the  S. 
Dominick,  2nd  ch.  on  I.,  and  S.  Thomas 
Aquinas  are  by  Carlo  Bononi,  The 
adjoining  convent  was  once  celebrated 
for  the  Library  bequeathed  to  it  by  the 
celebrated  Celio  Calcagnini,  "a  poet, 
scholar,  antiquarian,  moralist,  pro- 
fessor, ambassador,  wit,  and  astrono- 
mer ;  one  of  the  first  who  maintained 
the  earth's  movement  round  the  sun; 
whose  praises  have  been  sung  by 
Ariosto,  his  fellow  traveller  in  Hun- 
gary, in  the  suite  of  Cardinal  Ippolito 
d'Este.      The    number     of    volumes 


ilOMAGNA. 


Houte  68. — Ferrara — Churches, 


479 


amoiinted  to  3584^  but  most  of  them 
are  now  dispersed.  Calcagnini  also 
bequeathed  fifty  golden  crowns  for  the 
repairs  of  the  library,  and  to  famish 
the  chairs,  benches,  and  desks  then  in 
use." —  Valery.  Over  the  door  of  the 
library  is  the  bust  and  dilapidated 
tomb  of  this  eminent  philosopher ;  the 
inscription  is  a  remarkable  testimony 
to  the  insufficiency  of  human  learn- 
ing :-r-JEIr  diutumo  studio  in  primis 
hoc  didicit  :  mortalia  omnia  contem- 
nere  et  ignorantiam  tuam  non  ignorare. 
Ariosto,  in  the  Orlando,  records  his 
astronomical  discoveries  in  a  beautiful 
passage : — 

••  II  dotto  Celio  Calcagnin  lontana 
Fara  la  gloria,  e  '1  bel  nome  di  quella 
Nel  regno  di  Monese,  in  quel  di  Juba, ' 
In  India  e  Spagna  udir  con  chiara  tuba." 

Or.  Pur.  xlii.  90,  5 

Ch.  of  S.  Francesco,  in  a  street  out 
of  the  wide  Corso  of  the  Giovecca, 
was  founded  by  the  Duke  Ercole  I.,  is 
one  of  the  most  interesting  in  Ferrara. 
Among  its  pictures  are  the  following 
by  Garofalo:  in  Ist  chapel  on  I.  the 
Betrayal  of  our  Saviour,  in  fresco ;  in 
7th  chapel  on  rt.  the  Virgin  and  Child, 
with  St.  John  and  St.  Jerome,  a  charm- 
ing picture;  a  beautiful  Holy  Family 
in  3rd  on  1.;  the  Kaising  of  Lazarus, 
one  of  his  best  works ;  and  the  Massacre 
of  the  Innocents,  4th  on  rt.,  one  of  the 
most  touching  representations  of  the 
subject.  The  Flight  out  of  Egypt  is 
by  Scaraellino ;  and  an  interesting 
one  by  Ortolano  in  4th  chapel  on  1. 
In  the  rt.  hand  transept  is  the  monu- 
ment of  the  Marchese  di  Villa  of 
Ferrara,  celebrated  for  his  defence 
of  Candia  against  the  Turks  in  1676; 
and  that  of  Giambattista  Pigna,  the 
historian  of  the  family,  and  the  secre- 
tary of  Duke  Alfonso.  Not  the  least 
remarkable  curiosity  of  the  church  is 
the  famous  echo,  said  to  reverberate  16 
times,  from  every  part  of  the  edifice. 

**  The  nave  seems  to  have  been  in- 
tended to  present  a  series  of  cupolas, 
as  the  'side  aisles  actually  do  on  a 
smaller  scale :  but  in  its  present  state, 
at  the  point  where  the  square  is  re- 
duced to  a  circle,  a  flat  ceiling  is  intro- 
duced instead  of  a  cupola.  Standing 
under  any  one  of  these,  the  slightest 


footstep  is  repeated  a  great  many  times, 
but  so  rapidly  that  it  is  difficult  to 
count  the  reverberations.  I  counted 
sixteen;  but  the  effect  is  a  continued 
clatter,  rather  than  a  succession  of  dis* 
tinct  sounds." — fVoods. 

77ie  Ch.  of  il  Gem  has  a  picture  of 
the  3  Japanese  Martyrs,  by  Parolini  ; 
and  the  vault  of  the  choir  painted  by 
Dielai,  In  the  choir  is  the  mau- 
soleum of  the  Duchess  Barbara  of 
Austria,  wife  of  Alfonso  II.,  well 
known  by  the  eloquent  eulogies  of 
Tasso. 

The  Ch.  of  S.  Giorgio  is  celebrated 
as  the  scene  of  the  General  Council  held 
at  Ferrara  by  Pope  Eugenius  IV.,  in 
1438,  for  the  purpose  of  bringing  about 
an  union  between  the  Greek  and  Latin 
Churches,  and  at  which  the  Emperor 
John  Palseologus  was  present.  Even 
at  that  period  the  atmosphere  of  Ferrara 
was  tainted  by  malaria,  for  it  is  re- 
corded that  the  council  was  removed  to 
Florence  in  consequence  of  the  un- 
healthy climate  of  this  city. 

The  Ch.  of  Sta.  Maria  in  Fado, 
near  S.  Andrea  and  the  Montagnone, 
one  of  the  oldest  in  the  city ;  but  en- 
tirely altered  by  modem  restoration, 
is  celebrated  for  a  miracle  resembling 
that  of  Bolsena,  which  the  genius  ot 
Raphael  has  immortalized.  The  Church 
tradition  relates  that,  the  faith  of  the 
prior  having  failed  at  the  moment  of  the 
consecration  on  Easter  Sunday  1171, 
the  host  poured  forth  blood,  and  con- 
verted him  from  his  disbelief.  This  . 
church  is  also  celebrated  for  its  magni- 
ficent paintings  by  Carlo  Bononi,  whose 
talent  can  only^  in  Lauzi's  opinion,  be 
appreciated  here.  He  relates  that  Guer- 
cino,  when  he  removed  from  Cento  to 
Ferrara,  spent  hours  in  studying  these 
works.  Among  them  are  the  Marriage 
of  Cana,  in  the  choir ;  in  6  th  chapel  on 
rt.  the  Visit  of  the  Vii^n  to  Elizabeth ; 
the  Crowning  of  the  Virgin ;  the  Para- 
dise ;  the  Miracle  of  the  Host ;  the 
Marriage  of  the  Virgin,  opposite,  left 
unfinished  at  his  death,  and  completed 
at  the  suggestion  of  Guido  by  Chenda ; 
5th  chapel  on  1.  the  Ascension,  copied 
from  Garofalo.  The  splendid  painting 
of  St.  John  in  Patmos  contemplating 
the  harlot  of  Babylon,  by  Dosso  Dossi, 


480 


Route  58. — Ferrard — Churches — Castle,         Sect.  Vll. 


now  in  the  Pinacoteca,  was  here  in  1st 
chapel  on  rt,  but  has  been  replaced  by 
a  copy.  In  a  chapel  near  the  choir  is  the 
painting  of  Justice  and  Power,  by  Coti- 
gnola,  containing  the  celebrated  Latin 
enigma  of  Alessandro  Guarini,  which 
has  not  yet  been  explained.  The  Visita- 
tion is  by  Panettiy  the  master  of  Garo- 
falo ;  the  Miracle  of  St.  Antony  is  one  of 
the  best  works  of  Garofalo's  pupil.  Carpi. 
In  the  sacristy  are  the  Annunciation  by 
Panetti,  and  a  Flight  out  of  Egypt, 
another  work  of  the  Venetian  School. 
Most  of  the  good  paintings  in  this 
church  have  been  recently  removed  to 
the  Pinacoteca,  and  replaced  by  copies. 
Sta.  Maria  in  Vado  contains  the 
tombs  of  some  of  the  most  remarkable 
artists  of  Ferrara,  and  of  Tito  Vespasiano 
Strozzi,  and  his  celebrated  son  Ercole, 
classed  by  Ariosto  himself  among  the 
first  of  poets.  The  remains  of  the 
painters  which  reposed  here — Ortolano, 
Garofalo,  Bononi,  Bastianino,  andDielai 
— have  been  removed  to  the  Cemeterio 
Comunalc.  The  elder  Strozzi  is  known 
also  as  the  President  of  the  Grand 
Council  of  Twelve,  but  he  acquired  a 
less  enviable  notoriety  as  a  minister 
than  as  a  poet,  for  it  is  recorded  by 
Muratori  that  in  his  official  capacity  he 
was  hated  "  pih  del  diavolo." 

TTie  Ch.  of  S,  Paolo,  in  the  Strada 
di  Porta  Reno,  near  the  cathedral,  is 
remarkable  for  one  of  the  masterpieces 
of  Scarsellino,  the  Descent  of  the  Holy 
Ghost.  An  Adoration  of  the  Magi, 
and  the  vault  of  one  of  the  side  chapels, 
are  by  the  same  master.  The  choir 
was  painted  by  Scarsellino  and  Bononi, 
The  3  large  paintings  on  the  sides  of 
the  tribune — the  Epiphany,  the  Con- 
version and  Death  of  St.  Paul—  are  by 
Mona,  The  Resurrection  is  by  Bastia- 
nino, 2  painters  of  this  school  are  buried 
here,  Giambattista  Dossi,  and  Bas- 
taruolo,  who  perished  while  bathing  in 
the  Po.  Another  tomb  in  this  church 
upon  the  5th  pilaster  on  rt.  records 
the  name  of  Antonio  da  Montecatino,  the 
friend  and  minister  of  Duke  Alfonso, 
better  known  as  a  professor  of  Peri- 
patetic philosophy.  His  bust,  which 
is  much  admired,  is  by  Alessandro 
f^iCBntm% 

The  Ch,  of  the  TheaHns^de'  Teatini), 


close  to  the  Post-office,  contains  a 
large  painting  of  the  Presentation  in 
the  Temple  by  Guercino;  and  a  Resur- 
rection, and  a  S.  Gaetano,  by  Chenda, 
TJie  Castle,  formerly  the  Ducal  Pa- 
lace, surrounded  by  its  ample  moat, 
and  furnished  with  tow.ers  and  bridges, 
carries  the  imagination  back  to  the  for- 
tunes of  Ferrara  during  the  middle  ages. 
**  It  stands,''  says  Forsyth,  *'  moated 
and  flanked  with  towers,  in  the^  heart 
of  the  subjugated  town,  like  a  tyrant 
intrenched  among  slaves,  and  recalls  to 
a  stranger  that  gloomy  period  described 
by  Dante : — 

"  Che  Ic  terre  d'ltalia  tutie  plene 

Son  di  tiranni ;  ed  un  Marcel  diventa 
Ogoi  villan  che  parteggiando  viene." 

Purg.  vL  124. 

It  is  a  huge,  square  building,  de- 
fended at  the  angles  by  4  large 
towers ;  it  retains  few  traces  of  the 
ducal  family,  and  wears  an  air  of 
melancholy,  in  accordance  with  the 
deserted  aspect  of  the  city.  Its  apart- 
ments were  formerly  decorated  by  the 
first  masters  of  the  Ferrarese  school, 
but  the  paintings  have  entirely  disap- 
peared, excepting  on  the  ceilings  of  the 
antechamber  and  the  Saloon  of  Aurora, 
where  some  by  Dosso  Dossi  still  re- 
main. In  the  dungeons  of  this  castle 
beneath  the  N.E.  tower  Parisina  and 
her  guilty  lover  were  put  to  death. 
The  outlines  of  that  dreadful  tragedy 
have  been  made  familiar  to  the  English 
reader  by  the  beautiful  poem  of  Lord 
Byron,  to  whom  the  subject  was  sug- 
gested by  a  passage  in  Gibbon.  A 
more  complete  account,  however,  is 
found  in  Frizzi's  History  of  Ferrara, 
from  which  the  following  is  an  ex- 
tract descriptive  of  the  closing  scene: — 
"It  was,  then,  in  the  prisons  of  the 
castle,  and  exactly  in  those  frightful 
dungeons  which  are  seen  at  this  day 
beneath  the  chamber  called  the  Aurora, 
at  the  foot  of  the  Lion's  Tower,  at  the 
top  of  the  street  of  the  Giovecca,  that, 
on  the  night  of  the  21st  of  May,  were 
beheaded,  first  Ugo,  and  afterwards 
Parisina.  Zoese,  he  that  accused  her, 
conducted  the  latter  under  his  arm  to 
the  place  of  punishment.  She,  ell 
along,  fancied  that  she  was  to  be  thrown 
into  a  pit,   and  asked  at  every  step 


KoMAQNA.        R<mte  58. — Ferrara — Gtxlhry  of  Pictures, 


481 


whether  she  was  yet  come  to  the  spot  ? 
She  was  told  that  her  punishment  was  to 
be  by  the  axe.  She  inquired  what  was 
become  of  Ugo,  and  received  for  answer 
that  he  was  already  dead;  at  which, 
aighing  grievously,  she  exclaimed, 
*  Now,  then,  I. wish  not  myself  to  live;' 
and,  being  come  to  the  block,  she 
stripped  herself  with  her  own  hands 
of  all  her  omanlents,  and,  wrapping  a 
cloth  round  her  head,  submitted  to  the 
fatal  blow,  which  terminated  the  cruel 
scene.  The  same  was  done  with  Ran- 
goni,  who,  together  with  the  others, 
according  to  two  records  in  the  library 
of  St.  Francesco,  was  buried  in  the 
cemetery  of  that  convent." 

Plan  of  tub  Finaooteca  at  Fesbara. 

Cono  Yittorio  Emanu«le.    £. 


<5 
P4 


o 


T 


IV 


111 


TTT 


a 


L  Entrance  Hall. 
IL  Modem  Palntingt. 
IIL  Great  HaU. 

rv.  v.  VI  VII.  Sundry  rainting* 
VIII.  Great  Picture  by  D.  Doscl. 
a.  Entrance. 


Gallery  of  Pictures^  or  Pinacoteca 
Munidpale,  —  This  collection,  for- 
merly at  the  Municipality,  has  been  of 
late  years  transferred  to  the  fine  Pa- 
lazzo Villa,  now  the  Ateneo  Civico, 
in  the  Via  di  Piopponi,  at  present  the 
Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele,  the  wide 
street  leading  from  the  castle  to  the 
closed  Porta  degli  Angeli  on  the  N. 
side  of  the  city.  The  palace,  erected 
in  1493,  which  once  belonged  to  the 
Estes,  is  one  of  the  finest  in  Ferrara, 
being  entirely  of  stone,  a  rarity  in  this 
alluvial  district:  only  the  N.  and  W. 
fronts  have  been  completed,  and  consist 
of  diamond-shaped  projecting  layers, 
a  very  unusual  style  of  construction, 
from  which  it  is  generally  known 
as  the  Palazzo  del  Diamante,  Some  of 
the  pictures  in  this  collection  are  re- 


markable ;  the  greater  part  have  been 
brought  from  desecrated  religious  edi- 
fices, or  churches  falling  into  ruin, 
in  and  about  Ferrara;  they  are 
arranged  in  a  series  of  eight  apart- 
ments on  the  upper  floor,  and  may  be 
seen  at  any  time,  on  application  to  the 
custode.  Koom  I. — Garofalo,  a  copy  of 
his  celebrated  fresco  of  the  Last  Supper, 
by  Candif  the  original  being  in  the  re- 
fectory of  the  Church  of  San  Spirito  ; 
sevenJ  portraits  of  members  of  the 
house  of  Este ;  head  of  St.  Paul  in  fresco, 
by  Panetti,  Room  II.  contains  some 
indifferent  modem  pictures;  Koom  III., 
The  great  saloon  of  the  palace,  with  a 
rich  but  heavy  wooden  ceUing : — Garo 
falo,  a  large  fresco"  of  the  Old  and 
New  Testament,  called  the  Trionfo  della 
Religione  Cristiana  and  the  Vecchia  e 
Nova  Religione,  an  immense  composi- 
tion; it  formerly  stood  in  the  refec- 
tory of  S.  Andrea;,  it  represents  the 
victory  of  the  New  over  the  Old  Testa- 
ment, the  ceremonies  of  the  Mosaic 
being  contrasted  with  those  of  the  New 
Law ;  C.  Bononi,  the  Marriage  atCana ; 
Bosselli,  a  Transfiguration;  several  un- 
known portraits.  Room  IV.  Palma 
Vecchio,  the  Tribute  Money,  a  fine 
picture  ;  Cremonesej  St.  Mark  writing, 
and  a  painting,  SS.  Joseph,  Theresa 
and  S.  Carlo;  Panetti,  an  Annuncia- 
tion; Garqfaloj  ^  small  paintings  of 
the  Descent  of  the  Holy  Spirit  and 
Resurrection ;  a  portrait  of  Gio  Villa, 
by  the  same;  B,  Gennari,  St.  Koch 
praying  before  the  Virgin,  with  the 
town  of  Ferrara  beneath;  Parolini,  a 
Crucifixion ;  Bononi,  the  fine  Guardian 
Angel ;  SuhUyras,  portrait  of  Benedict 
XIV. ;  Scar»elino,  SS.  Laurence  and 
Francis;  Tintoretto^  a  Virgin  of  the 
Rosary ;  Guercino,  St.  Bruno  kneeling 
before  the  Virgin ;  Costa,  Virgin  and 
Child  and  St.  Jerome ;  Dosso  Dossi,  the 
Resurrection.  Room  V.  Dosso  Dossi, 
St.  John  at  Patmos — one  of  his  finest 
works;  CarpU  S.  Antonio  and  Infant 
Jesus;  Cortellinif  Virgin  and  Saints; 
Stefano  da  Ferrara^  the  Virgin,  Child, 
and  two  Saints ;  Garqfalo,  Sie  Adora- 
tion of  the  Magi;  Panetti,  the  An- 
nunciation, and  the  Meeting  of  Mary 
and  Elizabeth ;  Mazzolino  da  Ferrara, 
the   Adoration    of  tiie   Infant  Jesus, 


482 


Haute  68. — Perrara — Public  Library.         Sect.  Vll. 


with  S.  Benedict  and  another  Saint,  one 
of  his  finest  works ;  Costa,  the  Virgin, 
S.  Petronius,  and  St.  Jerome,  very 
fine ;  Galasso  Galassiy  a  Crucifixion ; 
GarqfalOf  Christ  in  the  Garden.  Koom 
VI.  Guerctno,  St.  Peter  Martyr ;  Vit- 
torio  CarpacciOf  a  dead  Madonna, 
signed,  and  dated  1 508 ;  Ercole  Grandi, 
Adoration  of  the  Magi ;  Annibale  Ca- 
racci^  Fall  of  the  Manna.  Baatiannino, 
Santa  Lncia ;  Garofalo,  the  Adoration 
of  the  Magi,  his  last  work,  dated  1548; 
Stefanoda  Ferrara,  the  Twelve  Apostles 
— ^half  figures;  Ros&elli,  SS.  Eloy 
and  Thomasso  di  Villanova;  Ercole 
Grandly  asmallPresepe;  Gius.Avanzi, 
portrait  of  Borso  d'Este.  Room  VIL 
Perugino  (?),  Santa  Maria  Egizziaca ; 
Dosio  Dossi,  an  Annunciation;  Pan- 
nettij  St.  Andrew ;  Garofaloy  4  paint- 
ings, in  chiaro-scuro,  of  subjects  from 
the  History  of  the  ConTcrsion  of  the 
Emperor  Constantino  to  Christianity; 
and  a  drawing,  in  crayons ;  Costa,  2 
small  circular  paintings,  relative  to  the 
Martyrdom  of  St.  Maur^lius;  Cristofero 
da  Ferrara,  a  small  Crucifixion;  Garo^ 
falo,  a  small  painting  of  St.  Nicolo  di  To- 
lentino  celebrating  mass;  Cosimo  Tura, 
a  cardinal.  Room  VII I.  This  apartment 
is  entirely  occupied  by  Dosso  Dossils 
immense  picture  of  the  Madonna,  with 
Infant  Christ  and  Saints :  it  is  a  huge 
composition,  full  of  talent;  unfortu- 
nately it  has  been  overvamished  on  its 
removal  here  from  the  ch.  of  S.  An- 
drea, where  it  formerly  stood :  in  the 
centre,  enthroned,  is  the  Virgin  and 
Child ;  in  the  four  angles,  St.  Augustin, 
St.  Ambrose,  St.  Sebastian,  and  St. 
George ;  and  at  the  foot  of  the  throne, 
St.  John  Evan.,  clad  in  green. 

Beyond  the  Museo  Civico  is  the  Pa- 
lazzo Prosperi,  with  a  very  beautiful  De- 
corated entrance  designed  hjB.  Peruzzi. 

Palazzo  del  Magistraio.  In  a  hall 
of  this  palace  the  Accademia  degli 
Ariostei  held  its  sittings;  it  has  suc- 
ceeded to  the  Accademia  degli  In- 
trepidiy  one  of  the  first  poetical  so- 
cieties of  Italy,  but  it  has  now  become 
more  generallv  useful  as  a  literary  and 
scientific  institution.  Near  its  hall  of 
assembly  some  small  rooms  are  shown 
which  were  occupied  by  Calvin,  when 
he  found  an  asylum  at  the  Court  of  the 


Duchess  Ren^e  under  the  assttm^d 
name  of  Charles  Heppeville.  It  is  im- 
possible to  visit  them  without  carrying 
one's  thoughts  back  to  the  meetings 
at  which  the  stem  reformer  secretly 
expounded  his  doctrines  to  the  small 
band  of  disciples  whom  the  favour  of 
his  patroness  had  collected  together. 
Among  these  were  Anne  de  Parthenai, 
Olympia  Morata,  Marot,  Francesco 
Porto  Centese,  and  other  Protestants 
whom  persecution  had  driven  from 
beyond  the  Alps,  and  who  assembled 
in  these  apartments  to  derive  instruc- 
tion from  the  great  teacher  of  Geneva. 
The  Studio  Pubblico  enjoys  some  cele- 
brity as  a  school  of  medicine  and  juris- 
prudence. It  contains  a  rich  cabinet 
of  medals,  and  a  collection  of  Greek 
and  Roman  inscriptions  and  antiqui- 
ties; among  which  is  a  colossal  sar- 
cophagus of  Aurelia  Eutychia.  But 
its  chief  interest  is  the  Public  Library 
(open  from  8  to  3),  containing  80,000 
volumes  and  900  MSS.,  among  which 
are  the  Greek  Palimpsests  of  Gregory 
Nazianzen,  St.  Chrysostom,  &c.  The 
most  remarkable,  however,  and  the  most 
valuable  of  all  its  treasures,  are  the  ma- 
nuscripts of  Ariosto  and  Tasso.  Those 
of  Ariosto  are  in  an  apartment  where 
the  poet's  arm-chair  of  walnut-wood, 
the. beautifully  executed  medal  bear- 
ing his  profile,  which  was  found 
in  his  tomb,  and  his  bronze  inkstand 
surmounted  by  a  Cupid  enjoining 
silence,  which  he  is  said  to  have  de- 
signed himself,  are  deposited.  These 
manuscripts  comprise  a  copy  of  some 
cantos  of  the  Orlando  Furioso,  covered 
with  corrections,  and  remarkable  also 
for  the  following  memorandum  which 
Alfieri  begged  permission  to  inscribe — 
**Vittorio  Alfieri  vide  e  venero  18 
Giugno,  1783 ;"  one  of  the  Satires;  the 
comedy  of  La  Scolastica;  and  some 
highly  interesting  letters,  among  which 
is  one  from  Titian  to  Ariosto.  The 
manuscript  of  the  Gerusalemme  is  one 
of  the  most  touching  records  in  Ferrara; 
it  was  corrected  bv  Tasso  during  his 
captivity,  and  ends  with  the  words 
Laus  Deo.  Like  the  Orlando,  this  is 
also  remarkable  for  its  corrections  and 
cancelled  passages,  many  of  which  are 
extremely  curious,  and  worthy  of  being 


fioMAGNl. 


Mouie  56. — Perrara — Artodo, 


483 


published.  There  are  likewise  nine 
letters  of  Tasso,  written  while  confined 
in  the  hospital  of  St.  Anna;  and  a  small 
eollectlon  of  his  Rime,  Another  manu- 
script, which  seems  to  lose  its  interest 
by  the  side  of  the  two  great  Epic  poems, 
is  that  of  the  Pastor  Fido  of  Guarini. 
A  valuable  treasure,  but  of  a  different 
character,  is  the  series  of  Choir  Books, 
in  18  volumes,  filled  with  beautiful 
miniatures,  which  formerly  belonged  to 
the  Certosa.  There  is  also  a  Bible,  in 
one^  large  volume,  illustrated  with 
miniatures  in  the  same  style,  and  ap- 
parently by  the  same  hand. 

Of  the  printed  books  in  the  library, 
we^  may  mention  62  early  editions  of 
Anosto,  a  fine  collection  of  cinquecento 
editions,  and  a  very  perfect  series  of 
books  printed  at  Ferrara,  which  was 
one  of  the  first  cities  in  which  the  print- 
ing press  was  established.  Signor  An- 
tonelli,  one  of  the  curators  of  this 
library,  in  his  work  on  the  Ferrarese 
printers  of  the  15th  century,  states  that 
during  the  first  30  years  of  the  1 5th 
century  upwards  of  100  editions  were 
issued  from  the  press  of  9  printers  in 
Ferrara.  *  Among  the  most  famous 
of  these  printers  was  Giambattista 
Guarini,  from  whom  Aldus,  before 
settling  at  Venice,  received  instruction 
in  printing  Greek.  The  medical  travel- 
ler will  find  here  the  exceedingly  rare 
work  of  Giambattista  Canani,  "Mus- 
culorum humani  corporis  picturata  dis- 
sectio,"  without  date,  but  referable  to 
the  middle  of  the  16th  century. 

In  one  of  the  rooms  of  this  library 
is  a  very  interesting  collection  of  .Por- 
traits of  Ferrarese  Authors,  from  the 
earliest  period  down  to  Cicognara  and 
Monti ;  and  in  another,  18  Portraits  of 
Ferrarese  Cardinals,  the  most  interest- 
ing of  which,  from  his  connection  with 
Ariosto,  is  that  of  Cardinal  Ippolito 
d'Este,  in  whose  service  the  great  poet 
had  spent  so  many  painful  and  unpro- 
fitable years ; 

"  Aggiungl  che  dal  giogo 
Del  Cardinal  da  £ste  oppresso  fui." 

In  a  third  room,  called  the  Sala 
d'  Ariosto,  is  his  Tomb,  brought  here  by 
the  French  from  the.ch.  of  S.  Bene- 
detto, on  the  6  th  of  June,   1801,  the 


anniversary  of  the  poef  s  death.  The 
inscriptions,  recording  the  merits  of 
Ariosto  as  a  statesman  as  well  as  a 
poet,  were  written  by  Guarini.  The 
library  is  open  to  the  public  from  8 
to  12,  and  from  3  to  4. 

The  Casa  di  Ariosto,  at  No.  1208 
in  the  Via  di  Mirasole,  opening  out  of 
the  Corso  di  Po,  is  marked  by  an  in- 
scription composed  by  the  great  poet 
himself: — 

"  Parva  sedapta  mihi,  sed  nuUi  obnoxia,  sed  non 
Sordida,  parta  meo  sed  tamen  eere  domus." 

Above  it  is  the  following,  placed  there 
by  his  favourite  son  and  biographer, 
Virginio : — 

"  Sic  domus  hsec  Ariosta 
Propitios  habeat  deos,  olim  ut  Phidarica." 

Ariosto  built  this  house  between  1526 
and  1528,  inhabited  it  during  the  latter 
years  of  his  life,  and  died  in  it  in  1533. 
When  some  visitor  expressed  surprise 
that  one  who  had  described  so  many 
palaces  had  not  a  finer  house  for  him- 
self, he  replied  that  the  palaces  he 
built  in  verse  cost  him  nothing.  After 
his  death  nearly  all  the  characteristics 
of  the  house,  described  with  so  much 
interest  by  the  poet,  were  destroyed 
by  its  subsequent  proprietors;  still  it 
remained  in  the  male  line  of  the  family, 
until  the  middle  of  the  last  centy. 
In  1811  Count  Girolamo  Cicognara, 
when  chief  magistrate  or  Podesta,  in- 
duced the  town  council  to  purchase  it,  as 
one  of  those  national  monuments  which 
ought  to  be  beyond  the  caprice  of  indi- 
viduals. The  chamber  of  the  poet  was 
then  carefully  restored,  and  the  circum- 
stance was  recorded  in  the  inscription 
placed  under  his  bust: — Lodovico  Ari- 
osto in  questa  camera  scrisse  e  questa 
casa  da  lui  abitata  ed\ficb,  la  quale 
CCLXXX  anni  dopo  la  morte  del 
divino  poeta,  fu  dal  Conte  Girolamo 
Cicognara  Podesia  co  danari  del  comune 
comprata  e  ristaurata,  perche  alia  vene- 
razione  delle  genti  durasse. 

The  Casa  degli  Ariostei,  in  which  the 
poet  was  educated,  is  situated  in  the 
Via  Sta.  Maria  de'  Bocche,  No.  3355, 
near  the  University.  He  lived  there 
for  the  purpose  of  pursuing  his  legal 
studies  under  the  superintendence 
of  his  paternal  uncles  ;    but  he  soon 


484 


Moute  58.  -—Ferrara — Tasso^s  Prison. 


Sect.  VII. 


gave  up  law  for  the  more  congenial 
study  of  poetry  and  romance.  It  was 
in  one  of  the  chambers  of  this  residence 
that  Ariosto,  with  his  brothers  and 
sisters,  performed  the  fable  of  Thisbe, 
and  other  comic  pieces  of  his  own  com- 
position. The  apartment  is  still  shown, 
and  is  well  adapted  for  such  representa- 
tions. On  the  death  of  his  father,  the 
poet  removed  from  this  house  to  the 
one  already  described. 

Some  of  the  private  palaces  in  Ferrara 
contain  good  pictures.  In  the  Palazzo 
Costabiliy  near  the  ch.  of  5.  Francesco^  are 
several  good  paintings  of  the  Ferrarese 
School,  especially  of  Dosso  Dossi  and 
Pessolino. 

In  the  Palazzo  Mazza  is  a  fine  Gara- 
falo  from  the  ch.  of  S.  Guglielmo,  some 
Dosso  Dossis,  and  2  Panettis ;  and  in 
the  P.  Strozzi  a  few  good  pictures. 

In  the  Palazzo  Schtfanoia  are  some 
curious  frescoes  by  Cosimo  Turra,  re- 
presenting events  in  the  life  of  Borso 
d'Este  under  different  months;  7  only 
are  preserved.  The  Horse  and  Donkey 
Races  are  very  spirited.  In  an  adjoin- 
ing room  is  a  beautiful  ceiling.  The 
palace  now  belongs  to  the  municipality. 

The  Piazza  Ariostea  formerly  con- 
tained a  statue  of  Pope  Alexander  VII. ; 
but  this  was  removed  by  the  repub- 
licans of  1796  to  make  room  for  one  of 
Napoleon,  whose  name  the  Piazza  bore 
until  the  peace  of  1814,  when  both  the 
statue  and  the  title  gave  way  to  those 
of  the  "  Italian  Homer."  The  column 
covered  with  foliage  reliefs  is  the  same 
as  that  on  which  the  statue  of  the  Pope 
stood ;  on  the  base  is  engraved,  **  A 
Ludovico  Ariosto,  La  Patria.*' 

One  of  the  great  objects  of  interest 
in  Ferrara  is  the  cell  in  the  hospital 
of  St.  Anna,  shown  as  the  prison  of 
Tasso,  in  the  precincts  of  the  hos- 
pital, and  near  the  Hdtel  de  PEurope. 
Over  the  door  is  the  following  inscrip- 
tion, placed  there  by  General  Miollis : 
Hispettatey  o  PosterU  la  celehrita  di 
questa  stanzaf  dove  Torquato  Taaso  in- 
fermopiu  di  trutezza  che  delirio,  ditenuto 
dimorb  anni  vii.  mesi  ii.  scrisse  verse  e 
prose,  e  fu  rimesso  in  liberta  ad  istanza 
della  citta  di  Bergamo,  nel  giorno  vi. 
LugliOy  1586.  It  is  below  the  ground 
floor,  and  is  lighted  by  a  grated  window 


from  the  yard;  its  size  is  about  9 
paces  by  6  ana  about  7  feet  high. 
**  The  bedstead,  so  they  tell,  has  been 
carried  off  piecemeal,  and  the  door  half 
cut  away,  by  the  devotion  of  those 
whom  *  the  verse  and  prose '  of  the 
prisoner  have  brought  to  Ferrara.  The 
poet  was  confined  in  this  room  from  the 
middle  of  March  1579,  to  December 
1580,  when  he  was  removed  to  a  con- 
tiguous apartment,  much  larger,  in 
which,  to  use  his  own  expressions,  he 
could  philosophise  and  walk  about.  The 
inscription  is  incorrect  as  to  the  imme- 
diate cause  of  his  enlargement,  which 
was  promised  to  the  city  of  Bergamo, 
but  was  carried  into  effect  at  the  inter- 
cession of  Don  Vincenzo  Gonzaga, 
Prince  of  Mantua." — Hothouse.  Few 
questions  have  been  more  debated  than 
the  cause  of  the  ^reat  poet's  imprison- 
ment, some  believing  that  it  was  actual 
insanity,  others  that  it  was  mere  deten- 
tion in  a  Maison  de  Sant€,  combined 
with  vexatious  annoyances  of  the  police; 
while  by  far  the  greater  number  coin- 
cide in  regarding  Tasso  as  neither  more 
nor  less  than  a  prisoner  of  state,  whose 
sufferings  were  aggravated  by  the  capri- 
cious tyranny  of  Alfonso.  His  biogra- 
pher, the  Abbate  Serassi,  has  shown  that 
the  first  cause  of  the  poet's  punishment 
was  his  desire  to  be  occasionally,  or  alto- 
gether, free  from  his  servitude  at  the 
court  of  Alfonso.  In  15  75  Tasso  resolved 
to  visit  Rome,  and  avail  himself  of  the 
indulgences  of  the  jubilee;  *' and  this 
error,"  says  the  Abbate,  "  increasing  the 
suspicion  already  entertained  that  he 
was  in  search  of  another  service,  was  the 
origin  of  his  misfortunes.  On  his  return 
to  Ferrara  the  Duke  refused  to  admit 
him  to  an  audience,  and  he  was  repulsed 
from  the  houses  of  all  the  dependants 
of  the  court ;  and  not  one  of  the  pro- 
mises which  Cardinal  Albani  had  ob- 
tained for  him  was  carried  into  effect. 
Then  it  was  that  Tasso — after  having 
suffered  these  hardships  for  some  time, 
seeing  himself  constantly  discounte- 
nanced by  the  duke  and  the  princesses, 
abandoned  by  his  friends,  and  derided 
bjr  his  enemies — could  no  longer  con- 
tain himself  within  the  bounds  of  mo- 
deration, but,  giving  vent  to  his  choler 
publicly  broke  forth  into  the  most  in- 


EOMAGNA. 


JRoute  58. — Ferrara — Tasso's  Prison, 


485 


jnrious  expressions  imaginable,  both 
against  the  duke  and  all  the  house  of 
Este,  cursing  his  past  service,  and  re- 
tracting all  the  praises  he  had  ever 
given  in  his  verses  to  those  princes,  or 
to  any  individual  connected  with  them, 
declaring'  that  they  -w^ere  all  a  gang 
of  poltroons,  ingratefuls,  and  scoun- 
drels (poltroni,  ingrati,  e  ribaldi).  For 
this  oftence  he  was  arrested,  conducted 
to  the  hospital  of  St.  Anna,  and  con- 
fined in  a  solitary  cell  as  a  madman." 
His  own  correspondence  furnishes  the 
best  evidence  of  the  treatment  he  ex- 
perienced ; — for  almost  the  first  year  of 
Ills  imprisonment  he  endured  nearly  all 
the  horrors  of  a  solitary  cell,and  received 
from  his  gaoler,AgostinoMosti,  although 
himself  a  poet,  every  kind  of  cruelty — 
**  ogni  sorte  di  rigore  ed  iuumanit^." 

*'0n  the  walls  of  Tasso's  prison  are 
the  names  of  Lord  Byron,  Casimir 
Delavigne,  and  Lamartine*s  verses  on 
Tasso,  written  in  pencil.  Notwith- 
standing these  poetical  authorities,  with 
the  inscription  Ingresso  alia  prtgione  di 
Torquato  Tasso  at  the  entrance,  another 
inside,  and  the  repairs  of  this  pretended 
prison,  in  1812,  by  the  prefect  of  the 
department,  it  is  impossible  to  recog- 
nise the  real  prison  of  Tasso  in  the 
kind  of  hole  that  is  shown  as  such. 
How  can  any  one  for  a  moment  sup- 
pose that  Tasso  could  have  lived  in  such 
a  place  for  seven  years  and  two  months, 
revised  his  poem  there,  and  composed  his 
different  philosophical  dialogues  in  imi- 
tation of  Plato  ?  I  had  an  opportunity 
of  consulting  several  well-informed 
gentlemen  of  Ferrara  on  this  subject, 
and  I  ascertained  that  not  one  of  them 
believed  this  tradition,  which  is  equally 
contradicted  by  historical  facts  and 
local  appearances.  There  was  enough 
in  Tasso's  &te  to  excite  our  compassion, 
without  the  extreme  sufiferings  he  must 
have  experienced  in  this  dungeon.  Al- 
fonso's ingratitude  was  sufficiently  pain- 
ful :  a  slight  on  the  part  of  Louis  XIV. 
hastened  the  death  of  Racine ;  and  with 
such  spirits  mental  afflictions  are  much 
more  keenly  felt  than  bodily  pains. 
Madame  de  Stael,  who  was  ever  in- 
clined to  commiserate  the  misfortunes 
of  genius,  was  not  misled  by  the  legend 
of  the  prison  of  Ferrara ;  Goethe,  ac- 


cording to  the  statement  of  a  sagacious 
traveller,  maintains  that  the  prison  of 
Tasso  is  an  idle  tale,  and  that  he  had 
made  extensive  researches  on  the  sub- 
ject."—  Valery, 

Sir  John  Hobhouse,  in  reference  to 
the  inscription  on  the  cell,  says  that 
*' Common  tradition  had  long  before 
assigned  the  cell  to  Tasso :  it  was  as- 
suredly one  of  the  prisons  of  the  hos- 
pital ;  and  in  one  of  those  prisons  we 
know  that  Tasso  was  confined.  Those," 
he  adds,  "  who  indulge  in  the  dreams 
of  earthly  retribution  will  observe  that 
the  cruelty  of  Alfonso  was  not  left 
without  its  recompence,  even  in  his 
own  person.  He  survived  the  affection 
of  his  subjects  and  of  his  dependants, 
who  deserted  him  at  his  death,  and 
suffered  his  body  to  be  interred  without 
princely  or  decent  honours.  His  last 
wishes  were  neglected;  his  testament 
cancelled.  His  kinsman,  Don  Csesar, 
shrank  from  the  excommunication  of 
the  Vatican,  and,  after  a  short  struggle, 
or  rather  suspense,  Ferrara  passed 
away  for  ever  from  the  dominion  of 
the  house  of  Este." 

"  Ferrara  I  in  thy  wide  and  grass-grown  streets 
Whose  symmetrj  was  not  for  solitude, 
There  seems  as  'twere  a  curse  upon  the  seats 
Of  former  sovereigns,  and  the  antique  brood 
Of  Este,  which  for  many  an  age  made  good 
Its  strength  within  thy  walls,  and  was  of  yore 
Patron  or  tyrant,  as  the  changing  mood 
Of  petty  power  impell'd,  of  those  who  wore 
The  wreath  which  Dante's  brow  alone  had  worn 

before. 
And  Tasso  is  their  glory  and  their  shame ; 
Haric  to  his  strain !  and  then  survey  his  cell 
And  see  how  dearly  eam'd  Torquato' s  fame, 
And  where  Alfonso  bade  his  poet  dwell ; 
The  miserable  despot  could  not  quell 
The  insulted  mind  he  sought  to  quench  and 

blend 
With  the  surrounding  maniacs,  in  the  hell 
Where  he  had  plunged  It.    Glory  without  end 
Scatter'd  the  clouds  away— and  on  that  name 

attend 

The  tears  and  praises  of  all  time ;  while  thine 
Would  rot  in  its  oblivion— in  the  sinlc 
Of  worthless  dust,  which  from  thy  boasted  line 
Is  shaken  into  nothing;  but  the  link 
Thou  formest  in  his  fortunes  bids  us  think 
Of  thy  poor  malice,  naming  thee  with  scorn- 
Alfonso  I  how  thy  ducal  pageants  shrink 
r^om  thee !  if  in  another  station  bom. 
Scarce  fit  to  be  the  slave  of  him  thou  mad'st  to 
mourn."  Childe  Harold, 

Next  to  the  hospital,  in  which  is 
Tasso's  tomb,  is  the  handsome  Rove- 
rella  palace,  a  good  specimen  of  the  ter- 


486 


Eoute  59. — Ferrara  to  Bologna. 


Sect.  VII. 


racotta  Decorated  style  of  the  16th 
cent. 

The  Theatre  of  Ferrara  is  one  of  the 
finest  in  the  Bomagna.  The  first 
opened  in  Italy  is  said  to  have  been  here. 

Tlie  Citadel,  now  razed,  was  founded 
in  1211.  After  Clement  VIII.  had 
seized  the  principality  as  a  fief  which 
had  lapsed  to  the  Church  for  want  of 
heirs,  it  was  entirely  rebuilt ;  an  ex* 
pedient  so  successfully  adopted  at  Pe* 
rugia  and  Ancona,  to  resist  the  mal- 
contents likely  to  rebel  against  the 
usurpations  of  the  Holy  See.  It  was 
completed  by  Paul  V.  By  the  treaty 
of  Vienna,  Austria  acquired  the  right 
of  occupying  this  citadel  and  the  small 
neighbouring  fortress  of  Comacchio  ; 
since  which  time  it  hKd  been  occupied 
by  an  Austrian  garrison  until  1859. 
It  was  then  destroyed :  the  space  to  be 
converted  into  a  Place  d'Armes,  or  ex- 
ercising-ground. 

Ferrara  is  one  of  the  3  archbishop- 
rics of  the  Romagna:  the  bishopric 
dates  from  a.d.  661 ;  its  archbishopric 
was  founded  by  Clement  XII.  in  1735. 

Plan  for  visiting  in  a  day  the  principal 
objects  of  interest  at  Ferrara,  and  in 
topographical  order, 

DcoMO  ;  the  Castle ;  Ch .  of  San  Do- 
menico ;  Chs.  of  San  Benedetto  and  S. 
Manrelius ;  House  of  Ariosto  ;  Pina- 
coteca;  Campo  Santo  and  Ch,  of  San 
Cristofero ;  retuminff  by  the  Piazza 
Ariostea  to  the  Strada  della  Giovecca ; 
Prison  of  Tasso ;  Ch,  of  the  Teatini ;  Ch, 
of  San  Francesco  ;  Public  Library ;  Uni- 
versity ;  Botanic  Garden ;  Chs.  of  Sta. 
Maria  in  Vado,  S.  Andrea  ;  Promenade 
of  the  Montagnone ;  Porta  Bomana  ; 
Porta  Beno ;  returning  to  the  Duomo 
by  the  Ch,  of  S.  Paolo, 

Boats  may  be  hired  at  Ferrara  for 
Venice,  a  voyage  of  20  hours ;  but  very 
few  will  be  mclined  to  adopt  this  very 
tedious  and  uninteresting  mode  of  tra- 
velling. Travellers  might  also  pro- 
ceed by  the  canals  to  E^venna.  The 
canals  from  Ferrara  are  the  following 
(these  communicate  with  many  others, 
by  which  a  constant  intercourse  is 
maintained  with  the  central  towns  of 
Northern  Italy : — The  canal  called  the 


Pd  di  Folano  leads  firom  the  Porta 
Romana  to  the  Adriatic,  by  a  course 
of  56  m.,  skirting  the  northern  dis- 
trict of  Comacchio:  it  is  navigable 
all  the  year.  The  Canalino  di  (Jento, 
28  m.  in  length,  keeps  up  a  commu- 
nication between  Cento  and  Ferrara. 
From  the  Porta  Po  or  di  S.  Benedetto 
the  Cavo  Pamjilio  extends  to  Ponte 
di  Lagoscuro,  a  distance  of  3  miles. 
From  the  Porta  di  S.  Giorgio  the  Pb 
di  Primaro  empties  itself  into  the 
Reno,  the  united  waters  of  which,  after 
running  along  the  S.  side  of  the  marshes 
of  Comacchio,  empty  themselves  into 
the  Adriatic  at  Porto  Primaro:  it  is 
navigable  all  the  year  by  boats  of  con- 
siderable burden. 

There  is  a  very  good  road  of  46  m. 
from  Ferrara  to  Comacchio,  leaving 
the  city  by  the  Borgo  di  8,  Giorgio,  and 
passing  by  Locomero,  Cana,  Qwxrtesana, 
Bovereto,  San  Vito,  Dogato,  and  Ostillato, 
Travellers  can  proceed  from  Comac- 
chio to  Ravenna  (25  m.),  through 
Torre  Bell'  Occhi  and  Mandriolo,  but 
the  road  is  bad  from  the  depth  of  the 
sand. 

2  public  conveyances  leave  S.  Maria 
Maddalena,  opposite  Ponte  di  Lago 
Scuro,  every  morning  about  10  for 
Padaa,  in  7  hours,  arriving  in  time  for 
the  last  rly.  train  to  Venice  (see  Rte. 
33). 


ROUTE  69. 

FERRARA  TO  BOLOGNA,  BT  RAIL. 

Ponte  di  Lago  Scnro  to  sii.. 

Ferrara       .      .  •  •       6 

PoKKio  Benatico  .  .     18 

S.  Hetro  in  Casale  .  .     28 
SanOior^io       ...     34 

Gastel  Maggiore  .  .43 

Corticella   •      .  .  .46 

Bologna      .       .  •  .     52 

52kil.  =  32m. 

The  rly.  fbUows  nearly  the  line  of 
the  old  post-road.  Close  to  the  walls 
of  Ferrara  it  crosses  the  canal  called 
the  Cavo  Tassone,  and  from  there  to 
Bologna  passes  over  a  perfectly  level 
plain,  remarkable  for  its  fertility,  but 
otherwise  devoid  of  interest.  It  is 
covered  with  rice,  maize,  and  com 


ROMAGNA. 


Route  60. — Feirara  to  Bologna, 


487 


fields,  and  especially  with  immense 
plantations  of  hemp,  for  which  this 
district  is  celebrated.  On  leaving 
Ferrara  there  is  a  good  deal  of  meadow 
land,  which  is  succeeded  by  grain 
crops,  the  fields  of  the  latter  being 
surrounded  with  vines  trained  on  elms. 
The  few  cottages  that  are  seen  are 
neat,  and  especially  as  we  approach 
Bologna,  the  general  appearance  of 
the  people  indicates  prosperity  and 
comfort. 

13  kil.  Pogffio  Renatico  stat.  the 
-village  on  the  right.  Leaving  this,  the 
line  soon  crosses  the  Eeno,  beyond 
which,  on  the  right,  is  the  village  of 
Galliera,  in  the  centre  of  a  district  cele- 
brated for  its  hemp. 

10  kil.  S,  Pietro  in  Casale  stat. 
close  to  the  village  on  right,  where 
there  is  a  good  mediaeval  Campanile. 

6  kil.  San  Giorgio  stat. 

9  kil.  Castel  Maggiore,  near  a  hand- 
some villa  on  the  right. 

3  kil.  Corticella  stat.  Few  trains 
stop  here. 

6  kil.  Bologna  stat. 


ROUTE  60. 

FEB&IRA  TO  BOLOGNA,  BY  CENTO. 

About  32  Eng.  m. 

This  was  formerly  the  principal  line 
of  communication  between  Perrara 
and  Bologna,  and  it  is  still  interesting 
as  passing  through  the  birthplace  of 
Guercino,  which  lovers  of  art  may  con- 
sider worthy  of  a  pilgrimage.  At  a 
short  distance  from  Ferrara  it  leaves 
the  post-road  to  Mantua  at  Cassana 
and  Porotto,  and  proceeds  by  Vigarano, 
Mirabello,  S.  Agostino,  and  along  the 
Reno,  by  Dosso,  to  Cento. 

Cento, — This  pretty  town  is  situated 
in  a  fertile  plain  not  far  from  the 
Reno.  It  is  supposed  to  derive  its 
name  from  an  ancient  settlement  of 
fishermen,  who  were  led  to  fix  upon 
this  spot  by  the  great  number  of 
crawfish  for  which  the  neighbouring 
waters  were  celebrated.  They  are  said 
to  have  built  a  hundred  huts  {cento 
capannucce),   which  they  surrounded 


with  a  fosse;  and  the  number  of 
their  cottages  thus  became  the  appella- 
tion of  the  town  which  subsequently 
arose  upon  their  site.  The  population 
of  Cento  is  5400.  The  town  was 
formerly  celebrated  for  the  college 
of  S.  Biagio,  which  was  suppressed  on 
the  establishment  of  the  First  Kingdom 
of  Italy  {  but  its  chief  interest  arises 
from  its  being  the  birthplace  of  Guer- 
cino. The  ch.  is  full  of  the  works 
of  this  great  artist;  and  his  house, 
which  it  was  his  delight  to  cover 
with  his  paintings,  is  still  preserved 
without  any  alteration,  save  what  has 
been  produced  by  time.  The  Casa  di 
Guercino  has  been  correctly  termed  a 
domestic  museum.  "  In  the  little 
chapel  is  an  admirable  picture  of  two 
pilgrims  praying  to  the  Virgin.  The 
extreme  destitution,  no  less  than  the 
fervour  of  these  pilgrims,  is  represented 
with  great  minuteness  of  detail  (even 
to  the  patches  of  the  least  noble  part  of 
their  habiliments),  without  in  any  way 
weakening  the  general  effect  of  this 
pathetic  composition.  The  ceiling  of 
one  room  presents  a  series  of  horses 
of  various  breeds;  there  is  a  superb 
group  of  two;  another  turned  out  at 
grass,  nothing  but  skin  and  bone,  is  a 
living  skeleton.  A  Venus  suckling 
Cupid  is  less  pleasing  than  the  rest, 
despite  its  celebrity  and  the  merit  of 
the  colouring. 

**  Guercino  had  for  Cento  that  love 
of  locality,  if  we  may  so  say,  of  which 
Italian  painters  and  sculptors  have  in 
all  ages  offered  numerous  examples: 
he  preferred  residing  in  his  native  town 
to  the  titles  and  offices  of  first  painter 
to  the  kings  of  France  and  England ;  he 
had  his  school  there,  and  remained  in 
the  town  till  driven  away  by  the  war 
between  Odoardo  Famese,  Duke  of 
Parma,  and  Urban  VIII.,  when  Tad- 
deo  Barberini,  nephew  of  the  latter, 
general  of  the  Pontifical  troops,  deter- 
mined on  fortifying  Cento.  The  cam- 
paign and  operations  of  these  two  com- 
batants seem  but  mean  at  the  present 
day  beside  the  glory  of  the  fugitive 
Guercino.  The  house  of  Guercino, 
in  its  present  state,  attests  a  simple, 
modest,  laborious  life,  which  inspires  a 
kind  of  respect.      This  great  artist, 


48B 


MoiUe  61. — Modena.  to  Bologna* 


Sect.  VII. 


really  born  a  painter,  the  magician  of 
painting  as  he  has  been  surnamed,  was 
also  a  pious,  moderate,  disinterested, 
and  charitable  man ;  an  excellent  kins- 
man, whose  comrade  and  first  pupils 
were  his  brother  and  nephews*,  be- 
loved by  his  master  Gennari,  praised 
and  recommended  by  Lodovico  Caracci, 
he  seems  to  have  escaped  the  enmity 
too  frequent  among  such  rivals.  The 
house  of  Guercino  is  not,  however,  de- 
void of  magnificenbe  :  it  is  easy  to 
conceive  that  he  might  there  receive 
and  regale,  ad  uno  squisito  banchettoy 
those  two  cardinals  who  had  come  to 
the  fair,  when  his  most  distinguished 
pupils  served  at  table,  and  in  the  even- 
ing performed  una  hella  commedia,  an 
extemporised  proverb,  with  which  their 
eminences  vrere  enraptured.  Christina 
of  Sweden  also  visited  Guercino  at 
Cento ;  and  after  admiring  his  works, 
that  queen  wished  to  touch  the  hand 
that  had  produced  such  chefs-d'oeuvre. 

**  The  Chiesa  del  Rosario  is  called  at 
Cento  the  Galerief'a,  profane  title,  par- 
tially justified  by  its  appearance  and  the 
arrangement  of  the  paintings.  Guercino 
is  not  less  resplendent  there  than  at 
home.  The  ch.  is  full  of  his  paintings : 
he  is  said  to  have  given  the  design 
of  the  front  and  steeple,  and  to  have 
worked  at  the  wooden  statue  of  the  Vir- 
gin ;  he  is  consequently  to  be  seen  there 
as  a  painter,  sculptor,  and  architect, 
but  especially  as  a  Christian.  A  chapel 
founded  by  him  bears  his  name :  he 
bequeathed  a  legacy  for  the  celebration 
of  mass  there,  and  left  a  gold  chain  of 
great  value  to  the  image  of  the  Virgin 
of  the  Rosary.  This  pious  offering  was 
stolen  about  the  middle  of  the  last 
century  by  a  custode  of  the  ch. ;  a 
double  sacrilege  in  the  town  where  his 
memory  is  still  popular  and  venerated." 
-r-  Valery. 

The  fair  of  Cento,  above  alluded 
to,  formerly  celebrated  throughout  the 
province,  still  takes  place  on  the  7th 
of  September;  but  it  has  much  fallen 
off  of  late  years. 

On  leaving  Cento,  the  road  crosses 
the  Reno.  A  little  distance  beyond  the 
river  is  Pieve  di  CentOy  a  town  of 
4000  Inhab.,  surrounded  with  walls,  and 
formerly  celebrated  for  its  miraculous 


crucifix  and  the  College  of  Sta.  Maria 
Assunta.  It  possesses  a  fine  Assump- 
tion by  Guidoy  over  the  principal  altar 
in  the  ch.  This  noble  picture  ^vras 
under  sentence  of  removal  at  the  Frencli 
invasion  in  1797;  but  the  people  rose 
against  the  intended  robbery,  and  ef- 
fectually prevented  it. 

The  road  now  proceeds  through  S. 
Giorgio  and  Castel  Maggiore,  parallel 
to  the  rly.,  on  which  there  are  stations 
at  both  these  places,  to 

Bologna,  Rte.  61. 


ROUTE  61. 


MODENA  TO  BOLOGNA. — BAIL. 


Oastelfranco 
Saxuoggia  . 


KIL. 

.     .     12  I  Lavino 
.     .     19  I  Bologna 

37    il.==23m. 


KXL. 
.  27 
,     37 


The  rly.  follows  the  line  of  the  Via 
Emilia. 

3  m.  after  leaving  Modena  the  rly. 
crosses  the  Panaro.  This  river  for- 
merly separated  the  duchy  from  the 
States  of  the  Church.  Here  we  enter 
the  Romagna. 

12  kil.  Castel  FrancOy  or  Forte  Urbano. 
This  castle,  called  after  Urban  VIII., 
who  built  it,  is  picturesque.  The  church 
possesses  a  dubious  Guido,  Castelfranco 
is  considered  by  Dr.  Cramer  to  agree 
with  the  position  of  Forum  Galloriim, 
the  scene  of  several  important  actions 
during  the  siege  of  Mutina,  a.u.c.  710, 
and  particularly  of  the  defeat  of  Antony 
by  Hirtius  and  Octavian,  after  the  rout 
of  Pansa. 

7  kil.  Samoggia  stat.,  a  village  situ- 
ated on  the  river  of  the  same  name, 
about  midway  between  Modena  and 
Bologna ;  considered  to  occupy  the 
site  of  Ad  Medias,  one  of  the  sta- 
tions of  the  -ffimilian  Way.  Beyond 
Anzola  the  road  crosses  the  Lavino 
and  2  m.  before  reaching  Bologna 
the  Reno  by  a  long  stone  bridge. 
Between  La  Crocetta  and  IVebbo 
2  m.  on  the    1.,  is  an   island  in  th 


yiilli'^dliiii'ili} 


ROMAGNA. 


Ro  ute  6 1 . — Bologna  — History, 


489 


Reno,  which  antiquaries  regard  as  the 
place  of  the  meeting  of  the  second 
Triumvirate,  a.u.c.  709.  The  road 
passes  through  an  open  and  finely- wood- 
ed country,  diversified  by  meadows  and 
rich  pasture-grounds,  beyond  wiiich  the 
hills  which  bound  the  prospect  are 
clothed  with  vegetation,  sprinkled  with 
handsome  Tillas,  and  cultivated  to  their 
summits. 

8  kil.  Laveno  stat.  2}  m.  after  leay- 
ing  this  cross  the  Reno.  The  towers  of 
Bologna  now  come  into  view,  and 

Monte  Guardia,  crowned  by  the  well- 
known  ch.  of  the  Madonna  di  San 
Z^uca,  is  a  conspicuous  object  from  the 
road  on  approaching  the  city  ;  on  the  rt. 
is  the  Certosa,  now  the  Campo  Santo. 

10  kil.  Bologna  stat.  The  station  is 
near  the  city  gate  of  La  Galliera,  where 
omnibuses  for  the  difierent  hotels  and 
hackney  coaches  will  be  in  attendance. 

BdLOGNA.  Hotels  (there  is  no 
good  hotel  here;  they  are  all  dirty, 
and  the  charges  high;  there  is  very 
great  room  for  a  new  and  improved 
hotel  here) :  the  H6tel  Brun  or  Suisse, 
in  the  Malvasia  Palace,  best;  under 
very  civil  managenient ;  near  the  Post- 
office;  it  is  comfortable,  but,  like  all 
the  hotels  here,  a  mile  from  the  Rly. 
Stat.,  which  is  outside  of  the  town: 
rooms  expensive ;  breakfast,  with  eggs, 
1-75  fr. ;  k  la  fourchette  2-50  frs.  ; 
table-d'hdte  4  frs.,  including  wine; 
dinners  in  apartments,  6  frs. ;  service 
75  c.  a  day ;  lady's  maid  5  frs.  a  day  ; 
there  are  two  saloons,  with  newspapers, 
pianoforte,  &c.,  where  persons  lodging 
in  the  hotel  can  sit;  the  Church  of 
England  service  on  Sundays  in  the 
large  room  of  this  hotel. 

Hdtel  di  San  Marco,  in  the  same  street 

11  Peiegrino,  fair,  civil  people. 
Albergo  d'  Italia,  in  the  Corso,  with 

a  restaurant;  I  Tre  Mori,  and  Tre  Re, 
second-rate  inns ;  the  two  latter  in  the 
centre  of  the  city. 

Ca/^«.— The  best  is  the  Caf^  del 
Corso,  near  the  Piazza ;  the  Cafe  del 
Piemonte  under  the  Portico  del  Pabel- 
lone,  behind  San  Petronio;  the  Caf<^ 
deir  Commercio,  opposite  the  Albergo 
Suizzero ;  and  the  Gaf^  dell'  Italia,  be- 
neath the  Portico  of  the  Dogana 
Vecchia. 


Hackney  CoachcM,  OmniLuses.—The 
cabs  with  one  horse  are  very  good: 
fares  75  c.  for  the  course  within  the 
city  walls,  and  1  •  50  fr.  an  hour ;  1  fr. 
from  the  rly.  stat.,  with  a  gratuity  for 
^^SS^^  ^^  addition.  Omnibuses  run 
from  the  principal  hotels  to  meet  all 
the  trains :  fares  60  c.  without,  1  fr.  in- 
cluding, luggage,  when  in  moderate 
quantity  ;  on  arriving  at  the  station, 
the  traveller  will  do  well  to  hand  over 
to  the  conductor  of  the  omnibus  the 
receipt  for  his  parcels.  Carriages  can 
be  hired  at  the  Hdtel  Suisse  by  the 
hour  at  the  following  rates :  for  1  hour 
with  one  horse,  2  frs. ;  with  2  horses, 
3  frs. ;  to  drive  to  San  Michele  in 
Bosco  and  to  the  Cemetery,  2  •  50  frs. 
1  horse ;  4  frs.  2  horses.  This  will  be 
a  better  and  nearly  as  economical  an 
arrangement  as  takmg  hackney  cabs. 

Booksellers. — The  traveller  will  find 
a  good  supply  of  works  of  local  interest, 
and  of  French  books,  at  Marsigli  and 
Bocchfsi  in  the  Portico  del  Pavaglione. 

Bologna,  until  recently  the  second 
capital  of  the  States  of  the  Church,  and 
one  of  the  most  ancient  cities  of  Italy, 
is  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  lower 
slopes  of  the  Apennines  in  a  beautiful 
and  fertile  plain  ;  it  is  surrounded  by  a 
high  wall  without  fortifications  from 
5  to  6  m.  in  circuit;  the  Savena 
washes  its  walls,  and  a  canal  from 
the  Reno  passes  through  the  city.  It 
was  until  recently  the  capital  of  the 
most  important  province  of  the  Holy 
See.  The  city  is  about  2  m.  long  by 
li  broad;  it  has  12  gates,  and  a  popu- 
lation of  75,000  Inhab.  It  is  the  resi- 
dence of  the  Prefect  of  the  province, 
and  the  seat  of  an  archbishop.  It 
is  one  of  those  interesting  provincial 
capitals  which  no  country  but  Italv 
possesses  in  such  abundance.  Witn 
its  rich  and  vaiied  colonnades,  afford- 
ing a  pleasant  shelter  from  the  sun 
and  rain,  with  well-paved  streets,  noble 
institutions,  and  a  flourishing,  intelli- 
gent, and  learned  population,  it  rivals 
Rome  in  all  except  classical  and  reli- 
gious interest,  and  the  extent  of  its 
museums.  It  would  do  honour  to  any 
country  in  Europe  as  its  metropolis ; 
and  the  inhabitants  still  cherish  in  their 
love  of  freedom  the  recollections  in- 


490 


Rmde  61. — -Bologna — History, 


Sect.  VII. 


spired  by  its  ancient  motto,  "Libertas." 
Boloffna  has  always  been  the  most 
flounshing  and  the  most  advanced  in 
an  intellectual  point  of  view  of  all  the 
cities  of  the  Papal  States,  although  it 
has  never  been  the  residence  of  a  court 
nor  the  seat  of  a  Sovereign ;  and  there 
can  be  no  doubt  that  this  prosperity  is 
attributable  to  the  long  continuance  of 
its  privileges  as  a  free  city,  and  to  the 
freedom  of  manners  and  opinions  for 
which  its  people  are  remarkable. 

.  On  entering  its  principal  streets  the 
attention  of  the  stranger  ia  at  once 
attracted  by  the  covered  porticoes,  like 
those  of  Padua  and  Modena.  The 
older  quarters  of  Bologna,  however, 
Wear  a  heavy  and  antique  aspect ;  their 
arcades  are  low  and  gloomy,  and  the 
streets  are  irregular  and  narrow;  but 
these  only  serve  as  a  contrast  to  the 
broad  thoroughfares  and  noble  arcades 
of  the  more  modem  part  of  the  city. 

The  early  history  of  Bolocna  carries 
us  back  to  the  time  of  the  Etruscans. 
Its  ancient  name  of  Fdsina  is  supposed 
to  have  been  derived  from  the  Etruscan 
king  of  that  name,  to  whom  its  founda- 
tion as  the  capital  of  the  12  Etruscan 
cities,  in  9S4  B.C.,  is  attributed.  His 
successor,  Bonus,  is  said  to  have  given 
it  the  name  of  Bononia,  although  some 
antiquaries  refer  it  to  the  Boii,  who 
occupied  the  city  in  the  time  of  Tar* 
quinius  Priscns. 

In  the  middle  ages  Bologna  had  be- 
come independent,  of  the  German  Em- 
perors during  their  contests  with  the 
Popes ;  and  had  obtained  from  the  Em- 
geror  Hen.  V.,  in  1112,  not  only  an  ac- 
knowledgment of  its  independence,  but 
a  charter  granting  to  its  citizens  the 
choice  of  the  consuls,  judges,  and  other 
magistrates.  It  subsequently  appeared 
among  the  foremost  cities  or  the  Guel- 
pbic  league ;  and,  after  Frederick  II. 
had  left  the  war  in  Lombardy  to  the 
management  of  his  illegitimate  son 
Hensius-  King  of  Sardinia,  it  "under- 
took to  niake  the  Guelph  party  triumph 
throughout  the  Cispidine  region.  Bo- 
logna first  attacked  Romagna,  and 
forced  t^e towns  of  Imola,  Paenza,  Forll, 
and  dervia  to  expel  the  Ghibelines  and 
declare  fbr  the  Church.  The  Bolognese 
next  turned  their  arms  against  Modena. 


TheModenese  cavalry,  entering  Bologna 
one  day  by  surprise,  carried  off  from  a 
public  fountain  a  bucket,  which  hence- 
forth was  preserved  in  the  tower  of 
Modena  as  a  glorious  trophy.  The 
war  which  followed  furnished  Tassoni 
with  the  subject  of  his  mock-heroic 
poem  entitled  '  La  Secchia  Rapita.' 
The  vengeance  of  the  Bolognese  was, 
however,  anything  but  burlesque;  after 
several  bloody  battles  the  2  armies 
finally  met  at  Fossalto,  on  the  26th  of 
May,  1249.  Filippo  Ugoni  <rf  Brescia, 
who  was  this  year  podest^  of  .Bologna, 
commanded  the  Guelph  army,  consist- 
ing chiefly  of  detachments  from  all 
the  cities  of  the  Lombard  league; 
the  Ghibelines  were  led  by  Hensius ; 
each  army  consisted  of  n-om  15,000 
to  20,000  combatants.  The  battle  was 
long  and  bloody,  but  ended  in  the 
complete  defeat  of  the  Ghibeline  party : 
King  Hensius  himself  fell  into  the 
hands  of  the  conquerors  ;  he  was  im- 
mediately taken  to  Bologna,  and  con- 
fined in  the  palace  of  the  Podest^.  The 
senate  of  that  city  rejected  all  offers 
of  ransom,  and  all  intercession  in  his 
favour.  He  was  entertained  in  a  splen- 
did manner,  but  kept  a  prisoner  during 
the  rest  of  his  life,  which  lasted  for  22 
years." — 8i»mondi.  In  the  latter  part 
of  the  1 3th  century  the  city  became  a 
prey  to  family  feuds,  arising  out  of  the 
tragical  death  of  the  lovers  Imelda 
Lambertazzi  and  Boni&zio  Gieremei ; 
and  for  many  years  it  was  harassed  by 
the  fierce  contests  for  supremacy  among 
these  and  other  noble  families.  The 
Gieremei  were  the  leaders  of  the 
Guelph  party,  and  the  Lambertazzi 
of  the  Ghibelines;  but  their  mutual 
hatred  was  kept  in  check  by  the  au- 
thorities until  the  occurrence  of  this 
domestic  tragedy,  which  bears,  in  some 
respects,  a  strong  similarity  to  the  his- 
tory of  Edward  of  England  and  his 
devoted  Eleanor.  The  Guelph  party 
at  length  appealed  to  the  Pope,  then 
Nicholas  III.,  whose  mediation  was 
so  successful  that  the  city  aoknow^ 
ledged  him  as  Suzerain ;  the  tyranny 
of  his  legate,  however,  brought  on  a 
revolution  in  1334,  which  ended  in  the 
supreme  power  being  seized  by  the 
captain  of  the  people,  the  celebrated 


RoMAGNA.  Eoute  61. — Bologna — Schod  of  Art, 


491 


Taddeo  Pepoli,  who  subsequently  sold 
it  to  the  Viscontis.  For  upwards  of  a 
century  after  that  event  Bologna  was 
subject  either  to  the  tyranny  of  the 
Viscontis  and  of  the  Popes,  or  to  popular 
anarchy :  the  family  of  Bentivo^lio, 
taking  advantage  of  these  feuds,  seized 
and  maintained  the  government  in  the 
Pope's  name ;  but  their  power  was  too 
independent  to  be  acceptable  to  the 
warlike  Julius  II.,  who  dispossessed 
them ;  and,  after  a  long  struggle,  esta- 
blished, by  military  force,  the  absolute 
supremacy  of  the  Holy  See. 

Bologna  is  one  of  the  few  cities  of 
Italy  which  have  been  occupied  by 
British  troops.  During  the  last  struggle 
with  Napoleon  in  Italy,  in  1814,  the 
Austrian  army  was  supported  in  its  ope- 
rations on  the  Adige  by  a  body  of  Eng- 
lish troops,  under  General  Nugent,  who 
landed  at  the  mouth  of  the  Po  and  occu- 
pied Bologna  in  February  of  that  year. 

In  1848  an  unjustifiable  attempt  of 
the  Austrian  General  Welden  to  take 
possession  of  Bologoa  was  repulsed  with 
great  bravery  by  the  Bolognese,  and  the 
invading  force  obliged  to  retreat  to  Fer- 
rara.  During  the  f[)llowing  year  the 
Austrians  were  more  successml.  Having 
determined  to  seize  on  the  capital  of 
the  Romagna,  to  counterbalance  the  oc- 
cupation of  Rome  by  the  French,  they 
attacked  the  city,  posting  themselves 
on  the  heights  above  it  with  a  force 
of  1 5,000  men.  The  Italian  party  within 
the  walls  resisted  bravely  for  10  days, 
when  they  were  obliged  to  surrender 
after  an  heroic  defence.  From  that 
period  Bologna,  until  1859,  had  been 
occupied  by  the  Austrians.  On  the 
breaking  out  of  the  war  between  Austria 
and  Sardinia  in  the  spring  of  that  year, 
the  Germans,  who  had  rendered  them- 
selves excessively  unpopular  by  every 
kind  of  intermeddling  in  the  local 
administration,  tyranny,  and  vexation, 
suddenly  withdrew;  when  the  towns- 
people formed  a  Provisional  Govern- 
ment, which  continued  to  govern  the 
city  and  the  province  with  great  ability 
and  moderation,  declaring  at  the  same 
time  their  determination  never  again 
to  submit  to  the  Papal  rule.  Called 
upon  subsequently  (March  12,  1860) 
to    pronounce    on    their    future    po- 


litical destinies,  the  Bolognese,  like 
all  the  other  cities  of  La  Romagna, 
by  an  almost  unanimous  vote  declared 
in  favour  of  being  annexed  to  the  new 
kingdom  of  Northern  Italy,  under 
Victor  Emanuel,  a  compact  subse- 
quently accepted  by  that  sovereign  and 
the  Sardinian  Legislature. 

Bologna  has  been  the  seat  of  a 
bishopric  since  a.d.  270.  It  was  raised 
to  the  rank  of  an  archbishopric  by 
Gregory  XIII.  It  has  had  the  honour 
of  contributing  more  prelates  to  the 
sacred  college  perhaps  than  any  other 
city  of  Italy  except  Rome;  among  the 
natives  who  have  been  raised  to  the 
pontificate  were  Honorius  II.,  Lucius  II., 
Gregory  XIII.,  Innocent  IX.,  Gregory 
XV.,  and  Benedict  XIV. 

The  School  of  Bologna  in  the  history 
of  painting  occupies  so  prominent  a 
place,  and  numbers  among  its  masters  so 
man^  great  names,  that  it  would  be  im- 
possible in  the  limits  of  this  work  to 
enter  into  anything  like  a  detailed 
account  of  its  history ;  and  the  publica- 
tion of  an  Euglish  translation  ofKuglers 
Handbook  of  Painting  will  now  render 
this  less  required.  But  while  the  tra- 
veller is  referred  to  that  learned  work 
for  the  details  of  the  school,  it  may  be 
useful,  as  an  introduction  to  a  descrip- ' 
tiou  of  the  works  of  art  in  the  city, 
to  give  a  brief  general  outline  of  its 
progress. 

The  first  name  of  any  eminence 
among  the  early  followers  of  Giotto  at 
Bologna  is  that  of  Franco  Bolognese, 
supposed  to  have  been  the  pupil  of 
Oderigo  da  Gubbio,  the  missal  paint- 
er, mentioned  by  Dante.  He  opened 
the  first  academy  of  art  in  Bologna 
in  1313,  and  is  termed  by  Lanzi  the 
Giotto  of  the  Bolognese  school.  Among 
his  successors  were  Vitale  da  Bologna 
(1320),  Jacopo  Paolo  or  iivawzi  ( 1404), 
Pietro  and  Orazio  di  Jacopo,  Lippo  di 
Dalmasio,  Maso  da  Bologna,  Marco 
Zoppo,  scholar  of  Lippo,  and  after- 
wards of  Squarcione,  at  Padua  (1474), 
who  founded  an  academy  of  great  ce- 
lebrity at  Bologna,  and  Jacopo  Forti, 
the  friend  and  imitator  of  Zoppo 
(1483).  But  the  most  celebrated  name 
which  occurs  in  the  early  history  of 
the  school  is  that  of  Francesco  Francia 


492 


Route  6h—^Bologna — School  of  Art. 


Sect.  vn. 


i 


(1518),  who  may  perhaps  be  cousidered 
as  its  true  founder.  Of  the  style  of  this 
great  master,  whose  works  are  now 
fully  appreciated  in  England,  Lanzi 
says,  "It  is,  as  it  were,  a  middle 
course  between  Perugino  and  Bellini, 
partaking  of  them  both ;"  and  Raphael, 
in  a  letter  printed  in  Malvasia's  work, 
says  that  he  had  seen  no  Madonnas 
better  designed,  more  beautiful,  or  cha- 
racterised by  a  greater  appearance  of 
devotion,  than  those  of  Francia.  Among 
the  scholars  of  Francia,  whose  works 
may  yet  be  studied  at  Bologna,  were 
his  son  Giacomo  (1575),  Lorenzo  Costa 
1535),  Girolamo  Marchesi  da  Cotignola 
1550),  and  Amico  and  Guido  Aspertini 
(1491).  From  the  time  of  Francia  to 
that  of  the  Caracci  various  styles  were 
introduced  by  Bagnacavallo,  1542 ;  In- 
nocenzo  da  Imola,  a  pupil  of  Francia, 
1542;  Francesco  Primaticcio,  1570; 
Niccolo  Abate,  1571;  and  Pellegrino 
Tibaldi,  1600.  The  style  introduced  into 
the  Bolognese  school  by  Bagnacavallo, 
and  adopted  by  Innocenzo  da  Imola, 
was  that  of  Raphael;  while  that  of 
Michel  Angelo  was  adopted  by  Pel- 
legrino Tibaldi.  Their  contemporaries 
Primaticcio  and  Niccolo  Abate  left 
Bologna  to  study  under  Giulio  Ro- 
mano at  Mantua,  and  subsequently 
settled  in.  France.  The  school  was  for 
a  time  supported  by  Lavinia  Fontana, 
Lorenzino  {hovQnzo  Sabbatini),  Orazio 
Samacchinii  and  Passerotti;  but  it 
gradually  declined  until  the  third  and 
greatest  epoch  of  the  Bolognese  School, 
which  produced  the  Caracci  and  their 
pupils. 

Before  the  close  of  the  16  th  cen- 
tury we  find  a  new  style  created  by 
the  Caracci,  which  superseded  the 
ancient  maxims,  and  finally  supplanted 
those  of  every  other  master.  This 
revolution  in  art  originated  with  Zo- 
dovico  Caraccif  "a  young  man."  says 
Lanzi,  **  who,  during  his  earlier  years, 
appeared  to  be  slow  of  understanding, 
and  fitter  to  grind  colours  than  to 
harmonise  and  apply  them."  After 
visiting  the  works  of  his  predecessors 
in  the  different  cities  of  Italy,  he 
returned  to  Bologna,  and,  with  the 
co-operation  of  his  cousins,  Agostino 
and  Annibale,  established  an  academy. 


By  their  judgment  and  kindliness  of  i 
feeling,  and  by  their  mild  conduct,  in 
spite  of  opposition  and  ridicule  from 
the  artists  who  then  monopolised  public 
favour  at  Bologna,  they  succeeded  iu 
attracting  a  crowd  of  pupils. 

The  most  distinguished   scholar  of 
the  Caracci  was  Domenichino  {Domemco 
Zampieri),  considered  by  Poussin  as 
the  greatest  painter  next  to  Raphael. 
His  friend  Albani  is  another  name  im- 
perishably  associated  with  the  school  of    I 
the  Caracci,  and  the  traveller  will  not 
fail  to  recognise  his  powers  in  all  the 
great  galleries  of  Italy.    But    Guidoy 
another  disciple  of  this  school,  is  fre- 
quently considered  as  its  greatest  genius; 
and  it  is  well  known  that  no  pupil  of 
the  Caracci  excited  so  much  as  he  did 
the  jealousy  of  his  masters.     Among 
the  names  which  figure  in  the  history 
of  the  Bolognese  school  at  this  period 
are  those  of  Guido  Cagnacci,  Simone 
Cantarini,  and   Francesco  Ge^     (the 
best  pupils  of  Guido),  Guercino,   and 
Lanfranco.    Among  the  scholars  of  the 
Caracci  who  remained  in  Bologna  after 
this  time  are  Sisto  Badalocchi,  Ales- 
sandro  Tiarini,  Lionello  Spada,  Lorenzo 
Garbieriy     Giacomo    Cavedone,    Pietro 
Fticini,  Lvcio  Massari,  &c.,  all  artists 
of  considerable  reputation,  and  Gohbo 
de*  Caraccii  so  famous  as  a  painter  of 
fruit.    The  school  of  Bologna  declined 
with  that  of  the  Caracci ;  the  attempt 
of  Michel  Angelo  Colonna  arrested  its 
downfall  for  a  period,  but  was  wholly 
inadequate  to  restore  it  to  its  ancient 
celebrity.     The  fourth  and  last  period 
of  the  school    boasts    the    names    of 
Pasinelli  and  Carlo  Cignani ;  the  for- 
mer aimed  at  uniting  the  design  of    < 
Raphael  with  the  colouring  of  Paolo 
Veronese,  and  the  latter  the  grace  of 
Correggio  with  the  varied  knowledge 
and  correctness  of  the  Caracci. 

After  this  general  sketch  of  the 
Bolognese  school,  which  will  be  found 
useful  to  appreciate  the  paintings  scat- 
tered over  the  city,  we  shall  proceed  at 
once  to  the 

Accademia  delle  Belle  Arti. — This  use- 
ful institution  is  situated  near  the 
N.E.  extremity  of  the  fine  street 
of  San  Donato,  beyond  the  Palace  of 
the  University,  occupying  the  build- 


EOMAQNA. 


Route  61, -^Bologna — Pictute  Gdllerr/, 


493 


Plan  op  Pinaootkca  at  Bologna. 


0, 

s 


-& 


a.  Entrance. 
I.  Entrance  corridor. 
II.  Smaller  Bolognese  School. 

III.  Ancient  Bolognese  School. 

IV.  Smaller  paintings  of  varions  schools. 
Y.  Hall  of  the  Guidos. 

Chefs  d'CEnvres  of  different  schools. 
Chefs  d'CEuvres  of  the  Bolognese  School. 
Miscellaneous  Bolognese  paintings. 


VI. 

VII. 

VIII. 

IX. 


Room  of  the  Conservator. 


ings  of  a  suppressed  convent  of  the 
Jesuits.  The  academy  consists  of 
schools  for  different  branches  of  the 
fine  arts,  and  contains  the  celebrated 
Gallery  of  Paintings,  or  Pinacoteca; 
the  Oploteca,  or  collection  of  arms ;  the 
hall  where  the  members  of  the  academy 
hold  their  meetings ;  a  library  of  works 
chiefly  connected  with  the  fine  arts; 
and  on  the  ground  floor  the  various 
schools,  which  are  numerously  at- 
tended :  in  the  vestibule,  formed 
out  of  a  portion  of  the  cloister  of 
the  convent,  are  several  casts  from, 
ancient  and  medisBval  sculptures,  and 
a  statue  of  a  Duke  of  Courland,  who 
resided  at  Bologna,  and  was  one  of  the 
protectors  of  the  institution  at  its  com- 
mencement. The  great  object  of  at- 
traction, however,  for  the  traveller  will 
be  the  Gallery  of  Pictures,  on  the  first 
floor,  which  is  open  to  the  general 
public  on  Thursdays  only,  but  a  small 
gratuity  to  the  custode  will  obtain  ad- 
mission at  any  other  time. 

The  Pinacoteca  has  been  formed 
chiefly  of  paintings  from  suppressed 
churches ;  of  pictures  which,  belonging 
to  the  municipality,  had  been  preserv- 
ed in  the  Palazzo  Pubblico ;  by  gifts 
from  several  patriotic  citizens;  and, 
although  fewer  in  number,  but  more 
valuable  as  chefs-d'oeuvre  of  art,  by 
the  paintings  carried  off  by  the  French 
in  1796  from  the  churches,  and  restored 
after  the  peace  of  Paris  in  1815.    A 

N,  Italy—IQCG. 


few  good  ones  were  transferred  to  the 
Brera  Gallery  at  Milan  when  Bologna 
was  annexed  to  the  kingdom  of  Italy, 
and  on  being  brought  back  were  de- 
posited here  also. 

The  great  value  of  the  Bologna 
Gallery  consists  in  what  may  be  called 
its  nationality,  as  it  certainly  contains 
the  finest  specimens,  with  very  few  ex- 
ceptions, of  the  Bolognese  school,  or  of 
what  German  writers  have  designated 
as  the  Academic:  in  this  respect  no  city 
of  Italy  can  compete  with  Bologna.  In 
no  place  can  the  school  of  the  Caracci 
be  seen  to  such  advantage  as  here ;  as 
Sir  Joshua  Reynolds,  in  recommending 
Ludovico  Caracci  as  a  model  of  style 
of  painting,  justly  has  observed :  **  It 
is  our  misfortune  that  the  works  of 
the  Caracci,  which  I  would  recom- 
mend to  the  student,  are  not  often  to 
be  found  out  of  Bologna,  .  .  .  and  I 
think  those  who  travel  would  do  well 
to  allot  a  much  greater  portion  of  their 
time  to  that  city  than  it  has  hitherto 
been  the  custom  to  bestow." 

The  pictures  of  the  Pinacoteca  are 
arranged  in  a  series  of  eight  rooms,  the 
four  first  forming  sides  of  the  former 
monastic  corridor ;  and  in  four  large 
apartments  fitted  up  in  1849  and  1862, 
in  which  are  placed  the  chefs-d'oeuvre 
of  the  collection,  admirably  an-anged 
and  lighted  from  above. 

In  noticing  the  more  remarkable 
works  of  art  we  shall  follow  the  order 

2  A 


494 


Eoute  Gl.-^BcHogna — Picture  GcUhfy.  Sect*  VII. 


in  which  the  trayeller  will  generally 
visit  the  galFery  in  preference  to  the 
arrangement  by  schools,  as  more  likely 
to  enable  him  to  examine  its  contents 
in  the  shortest  time  possible.  Althot^h 
the  different  rooms  bear  no  numbers, 
we  shall  affix  one  to  each,  in  the  order 
in  which  most  persons  will  go  over 
them.* 

The  annexed  ground-plan  of  the  gal- 
lery may  fiicilitate  the  traveller's  exa- 
mination of  the  treasures  in  the  Pina- 
coteca. 

r  I.  Entrance  Cobridor.  —  The 
paintings  in  this  and  the  next  hall 
are  of  a  miscellaneous  character  and 
schools,  but  none  very  remarkable; 
the  best  are,  97,  Gesse,  a  St.  Francis ; 
297,  Fontormo,  a  good  Madonna  and 
Child;  17,  Guerciiw,  the  Almighty 
Father ;  36,  F.  Francia,  an  Kcce 
Homo, but  nearly  spoiled;  184,  Tian'ni, 
the  Virgin  with  Four  Saints ;  7,  B. 
Ahisif  the  Madonna  in  the  Clouds,  with 
SS.  John  Baptist  and  Francis,  below ; 
turning  from  the  end  of  this  corridor 
to  the  left  is  another,  II.  on  the  walls 
of  which  are  smaller  works  of  the 
Bolognese  School,  one  of  the  most 
curious  being  one,  64,  by  F.  Cossa,  a 
rare  master,  representing  the  Virgin 
enthroned  with  SS.  Petronius  and 
John  the  Evangelist,  and  the  Dona- 
torio  on  his  knees:  it  is  signed  and 
dated  1474;  15,  Guercino,  a  good  St. 
John ;  30,  Simone  da  Fesaro,  an  excellent 
portrait  of  himself;  50,  Lud,  Caracci, 
Christ  bound  to  the  Column ;  38,  An. 
Caraccif  The  Assumption  with  the 
Apostles,  below ;  292,  Irmocenzo  da 
Iinola,  The  Virgin  and  Child  with  S. 
John,  S.  Francis,  and  S.  Claire,  a 
lovely  painting ;  and  289,  The  Virgin 
of  the  Rosary  with  S.  Dominick,  by 
Faolo  Caracci. 

Room  III.,  which  follows,  contains 
a  very   curious    series    of   the    early 

•  There  Is  an  indifferent  catalogue  sold  at  the 
gallery,  but  on  the  unsatisfactory  plan  of  an 
alphabetical  order  of  the  artists'  names,  with- 
out any  Indication  from  where  the  pictures 
have  been  brought,  their  history,  &c. ;  the  defects 
may  be  supplied,  as  regards  the  most  remark- 
able works,  of  which  he  has  given  engravings, 
by  reference  to  Rosaspina's  '  Pinaooteca  dell' 
Aocademia  dcUe  Belle  Arti,'  1  vol.  foliOtlSSO. 


Bolognese  Painters,  and  which  are 
well  deserving  of  the  study  of  those 
who  are  interested  in  the  history  of 
Art ;  with  two  or  three  exceptions 
they  are  all  by  Bolognese  Masters,  the 
principal  exceptions  are,  102,  Giotto, 
an  Ancona  of  four  Saints,  the  central 
compartment  a  Virgin  and  Child,  is  now 
in  the  Gallery  of  the  Brera  at  Milan ; 
205,  Antonio  and  B,  Vivarini  of  Mnranoii 
an  Ancona  elaborately  carved  by  Cm- 
tofaro  da  Ferrara ;  the  paintings  in 
12  compartments  are  of  the  Virgin 
and  Saints,  this  Ancona  was  given  to 
the  ch.  of  the  Carthusians  near  Bo- 
logna by  Pope  Nicholas  V. ;  the  works 
of  the  Bolognese  painters  of  the  14th 
centy.  are,  137,  Felosi  the  Virgin  en- 
throned with  Saints,  daied  1476;  159, 
G.  Avanzi,  an  Ancona  with  the  Death  of 
the  Virgin  and  numerous  Saints;  163, 
Simone  da  Bologna,  a  Virgin  crowned;, 
a  painting  of  Pope  St.  Urbanns  and 
several  smaller  subjects ;  the  principal 
works  however  of  this  early  artist 
will  be  found  in  the  churches  in  the 
form  of  painted  crucifixes,  from  which 
he  derived  the  name  oi  Simone  dei  Croci- 
fissi;  Jacopo  di  Faolo,  a  Crucifixion 
signed,  and  an  indifferent  Annuncia- 
tion ;  103,  Lambert ini  or  Michele  di 
Matteo,  a  Dead  Christ  on  the  Virgin's 
Knees,  with  SS.  John  the  Baptist, 
Mark,  and  Antony  the  Abbot ;  on  the 
Predella  are  histories  from  the  life  of 
our  Saviour ;  105,  106,  figures  of  SS. 
Dominick  and  Francis;  203,  Vitale  da 
Bologna,  one  of  the  oldest  Masters  of 
the  Bolognese  school  (1320),  a  Ma- 
donna and  Child  very  elaborately  exe- 
cuted; 154,  Dalmasio  Soanahecchi;  an 
Ancona  of  the  Coronation  of  the 
Virgin ;  109,  Giovanni  Martorelli,  an 
Ancona  of  the  Madonna  with  SS. 
Sebastian  and  Thaddeus;  61,  Cima  da 
Conegliano,  a  lovely  Virgin  and  Child ; 
202,  Santa  Caterina  Vigri,  an  Ursuline 
Nun  who  was  an  artist  and  afterwards 
canonized,  St.  Ursula,  surrounded  by 
a  host  of  other  Saints.  The  painting. 
360,  in  the  centre  of  this  hall,  ana 
which  was  given  to  the  Pinacoteca 
by  Pius  IX.,  is  by  Nicolo  Ahinno:  on 
one  side  the  Virgin  and  Child  with  SS. 
Francis  and  Sebastian,  on  the  other 
the  Annunciation  of  the  Virgin:  tiie 


RoMAaNAr  Boute  61. — Bologna-^Picture  QciHery. 


49& 


paintingB  on  both  sides  are  signed  and 
dated  1482.     A  flight  of  steps  leads 
from  Hall  III.  to  IV.,  recently-  added 
to  the  gallery.    276,  Mengs,  portrait  of 
Clement  XIII.;  277,  Luca  CambiasOf  a 
Nativity.     At  the  extremity  of  the 
Hall,  as  in  a  tribune,  has  been  placed, 
No.  152,  Raphael's  Santa  Cecilia  in 
Ecstasy    on    hearing    the    heavenly 
music  of  the  Angels,  and  surrounded 
by  St.  Paul,  St.  John  the  Evangelist, 
St.    August! n,    and    St.    Mary    Mag- 
dalene.    '*  Santa  Cecilia  is  represented 
with  a  lyre,  held  by  both  hands,  care- 
lessly dropped ;  the  head,  turned  up  to- 
wards heaven,  with  a  beautiful  pensive 
countenance,  having  an  expression  of 
concentrated  and  exalted  feeling,  as  if 
devoting  the  best  &cnlties  and  gifts  of 
God  to  God,  is  deeply  and  touchingly 
impressive;  her  drapery  is  of  finely 
enriched  yellow,  thrown  over  a  close- 
drawn  tunic  ;  St.  Paul,  a  superb  digni- 
fied figure,  fills  one  comer ;  St.  John, 
drawn  with  a  greater  expression  of 
simplicity  and  delicacy  of  form,  is  next 
to  lum ;  St.  Augustine,  another  grand 
figure,  and  Mary  Magdalene,  like  sister 
of  the  heaven-devoted  Cecilia,    stand 
close  by  her.    All  the  figures  are  in  a 
line,  but  so  finely  composed,  and  the 
disposition  of  the   lights  and  shades 
such,  as  to  produce  the  effect  of  a  beau- 
tiful central  group,  consisting  of  Santa 
Cecilia,  Mary  Magdalene,  and  St.  Peter. 
Musical  instruments,  scattered  on  the 
foreground,  fill  it  up,  but  without  at- 
tracting the  eye ;    a  pure  blue  element 
forms  the  horizon,,  while  high  in  the 
heavens  a   choir    of  angels,  touched 
with  the   softest  tints,  is  indistinctly 
seen." — BeiL     This  beautiful  picture 
was  painted  for  a  lady  of  the  Duglioli 
dair  Olio  family,  afterwards  beatified, 
and  stood  over  the  altar  of  the  Benti- 
voglio    chapel    at   San   Giovanni    in 
Monte  (p.  .508).    The  story,  as  told 
by  Vasari,  of  Francia's  dying  of  mor- 
tification on  seeing  it  ai^er  its  arri- 
val in  Bologna,  is  very  unlikely:  in- 
deed it  is  disproved  by  the  friendly 
terms  on  which  he  and  Raphael  were, 
as  evidenced  by  their  correspondence. 
The  lower  part  of  the  picture  is  sup- 
posed to   have  been  painted  by    Ra- 
phael's scholar,  Giov.  da  Udlnc.    The 


Santa  Cecilia  remained  at  the  Louvre 
until  1815. 

Prom  Room  I V.  a  side  door  opens  into 
Hall  V. — An  apartment  recently 
added  to  the  Gallery ;  in  it  have  been 
placed  the  chefe-d'ceuvres  of  Guide, 
and  of  a  few  of  his  great  cotemporaries, 
Domenichino,  Guercino,  and  Tiarini,  all 
the  works  here  being  first-rate,  merit  to 
be  particularly  studied;  the  grand 
painting  however  is  134,  Gutdo*s  cele-^ 
brated  Madonna  delta  Pieta,  so  called  from 
the  Virgin  weeping  over  the  dead  body 
of  Our  Saviour,  which  forms  the  upper 
half  of  this  large  and  very  fine  picture  ; 
below  stand  the  five  Saints,  Protectors 
of  Bologna — Petronius,Carlo  Borromeo, 
Dominick,  Francis,  and  Proculus ;  and 
in  the  background,  a  bird*s-eye  view  of 
the  city  with  its  towers,  &c.  This  ce- 
lebrated painting  was  executed  in  1616 
for  the  municipality,  who  were  so 
pleased  with  it,  that,  in  addition  to  the 
price  agreed  upon,  they  bestowed  a 
gold  chain  and  a  medal  of  gratitude 
on  the  artist;  135,  The  Massacre  of 
the  Innocents;  136,  The  Crucifixion, 
with  the  Virgin,  St.  John,  and  the 
Magdalene  at  the  foot  of  the  Cross. 
This  picture,  generally  known  as  the 
Crista  de'  Cajniccim',  is  one  of  Guide's 
finest  works:  it  formerly  stood  over  the 
high  altar  in  the  Ch.  of  the  Capucins. 

138,  the  Virgin  of  the  Rosary  above,  and 
the  Protecting  Saints  of  Bologna  be- 
neath it,  was  painted  by  Guide  in  1630, 
and  is  on  silk,  to  be  carried  as  a  banner 
in  a  procession,  to  invoke  the  Virgin,  on 
the  occasion  of  the  pla^e  which  deso- 
lated the  city  at  the  tune ;  it  was  for- 
merly preserved  in  the  Senatorial  Pa- 
lace, having  been  executed  at  the  public 
expense;  137,  Samson  having  van- 
quished the  Philistines.  This  fine 
picture,  one  of  Guide's  best  works,  was 
painted  for  Cardinal  Ludovisi,  to  be 
placed  over  a  chimney,  which  will  ex- 
plain its  unusual  foim  :  on  his  death, 
the  Cardinal  bequeathed  it  to  his  native 
town,  where  it  long  formed  one  of 
the  ornaments  of  the  Senatorial  Palace; 

139,  St.  Andrea  Corsini,  and  140,  St. 
Sebastian,  two  beautiful  full-length 
figures;  12,  Quercino,  William  Duke  of 
Aquitaine  receiving  the  religious  habit 

2  A  ?! 


496 


Route  61. — Bologna — Picture  Gallery.  Sect.  VII. 


from  St  Felix,  with  the  Madonna  above, 
and  SS.  Philip  and  James  the  Apostles 
— a  fine  picture,  formerly  in  the  Ch.  of 
S.  Gregorio,  from  which  it  was  removed 
to  Paris  in  1796  ;  13,  St.  Bruno  praying 
in  the  Desert  with  the  Vir^n  in  glory 
above,  from  the  Certosa,  it  had  also 
been  carried  to  Paris ;  208,  DomenichinOf 
The  Death  of  St.  Peter  Martyr :  this  fine 
specimen  of  the  master  was  painted  for 
two  nuns  of  the  Spada  family  for  their 
convent,  le  Monache  Dominicane.  182, 
Tiarinif  a  fine  Deposition.  Forming  the 
continuation  of  the  Hall  of  Guido,  is  the 
equally  beautiful  one,    , 

Room  VI.,  of  the  Chefe-d'csuvres 
of  different  Italian  schools. — 116,  Par- 
miijiminOy  the  Virgin  and  Child,  with 
St.  Margaret,  St.  Jerome,  and  St.  Au- 
gustin,  one  of  the  best  works  of 
the  master;  198,  Vasariy  Supper  of 
St.  Gregory  the  Great,  entertaining 
the  twelve  poor  Pilgrims,  amongst 
whom  our  Saviour,  as  we  are  told  by 
the  Church  legend,  appeared  as  the 
13th.  This  painting,  not  equal  to 
many  of  the  master,  was  executed  for  the 
Convent  of  S.  Michele  in  Bosco :  it  is 
chiefly  interesting  as  representing  the 
portraits  of  several  of  the  artist's  con- 
temporaries and  patrons;  Clement  VII. 
as  St.  Gregory,  Duke  Alexander  de 
Medicis,  &c.  &c.,  and  even  the  butler 
of  the  convent ;  78,  Francesco  Francia, 
the  Madonna,  with  SS.  Augustine, 
Francis,  John  the  Baptist,  Sebastian, 
and  Proculus.  This  painting,  on 
wood,  is  one  of  Francia's  finest  works : 
it  was  executed  in  1490  for  B. 
Felicini,  and  is  said  to  have  procured 
for  the  painter  the  patronage  of  the 
Bentivoglios.  79,  the  Annunciation; 
81,  our  Saviour  in  the  cradle,  adored 
by  Angels  and  Saints ;  the  Knight  of 
Malta  kneeling  is  Antonio  Bentivoglio; 
the  Shepherd,  Pandolfo  Cassio,  a  rich 
jeweller  and  poet,  and  a  friend  of  the 
painter's ;  80,  the  Madonna  and  Child 
between  SS.  Michael,  John  the  Bap- 
tist, Stephen,  and  Augustin,  with  an 
Angel  bearing  a  lily.  This  has  always 
been  looked  upon  as  one  of  Francia*s 
finest  paintings;  133,  Bagnacavallo,  a 
Holy  Family,  with  SS.  Paul,  Benedict, 
and  the  Magdalene ;  25,  Lorenzo  Costa, 


St.  Petronius  enthroned,  holding  the 
ch.  dedicated  to  him,  between  St. 
Francis  and  St.  Thomas  Aquinas ;  1 97, 
Perugino,  The  Virgin  and  Child  in 
Glory,  with  Saint  John  the  Evange- 
list, Catherine  and  Apollonia,  and  the 
Archangel  Michael  below ;  this  picture, 
in  Perugino's  best  style,  stood  at  the 
Vezzini  chapel  in  the  ch.  of  S.  Gio- 
vanni in  Monte,  and  formed  part  of  the 
French  spoils  in  1796;  276,  Pelegrino 
TibaJdiy  the  Marriage  of  St.  Catherine ; 
122,  Nieoh  da  Cremona^  the  Laying  in 
the  Sepulchre,  with  the  two  Marys; 
108,  Cotignola,  The  Marriage  of  the 
Virgin ;  89,  Innocenzo  da  Imola,  The 
Virgin  with  4  Angels  above,  with  St. 
Michael  terrassing  the  Devil  below,  a 
fine  specimen  of  the  Master. 

KooM  VII.  Chefe-d'ceuvres  of  the 
Bolognese  School.  To  the  travelling 
artist  the  most  interesting,  and,  includ- 
ing the  paintings  in  Room  IV.,  the 
most  magnificent  collection  of  the  so- 
called  Ecclectic  style  in  the  world. 
Nowhere  can  the  talent  of  the  Caracci 
and  their  followers  be  so  well  appreci- 
ated. 2,  Albani,  The  Baptism  of 
Christ,  with  the  Almighty  Father  in 
the  heavens  surrounded  by  Angels ; 
206,  DoMENicHiNo,  the  Martyrdom  of 
St.  Agnes,  one  of  the  artist's  finest 
works;  207,  Domenichirw,  the  Virgin 
of  the  Rosary,  with  St.  Dominick,  and 
Angels  carrying  its  emblems,  a  Pope 
and  several  figures  beneath ;  it  formerly 
was  in  the  Ratta  Chapel  at  S.  Giovanni 
in  Monte,  from  which  it  was  carried  to 
Paris;  34,  Agostino  Caracdy  the  Com- 
munion of  St.  Jerome,  one  of  his  finest 
paintings :  it  was  formerly  at  the  Cer- 
tosa, and  was  carried  to  Paris,  with 
the    following:    3.5,  the  Assumption; 

36,  An.  Caracci,  the  Virgin  and  in&nt 
Jesus  in  Glory  above,  and  SS.  Louis, 
Alexis,  John  the  Baptist,  Francis, 
Chiara,  and  Catherine  below.  This  is 
considered  one  of  the  artist's  finest 
works,  and  stood  over  the  high  altar 
in  the  Ch.  of  SS.  Ludovico  e  Alessio; 

37,  The  Virgin  and  Infant  Saviour, 
with  the  young  St.  John  and  St. 
Catherine  of  Alexandria  and  the 
Evangelist ;  42,  Lodovico  Caraoci,  a  fine 
series,  representing  the  Madonna  and 


JROMAGNA. 


JiotUe  61. — Bologna — University, 


497 


Child  iwith  4  Saints;  43,  The  Trans- 
figuration, with  Moses  and  Elias  ;  44, 
Jesus  Christ  summoning  St.  Matthew 
to  follow  him ;  45,  the  Birth  of  St.  John 
the  Baptist  The  portrait  below  is  of 
Monsignore  Ratta,  who  had  the  paint- 
ing executed  for  a  monastery ;  46,  the 
Preaching  of  St.  John;  47,  the  Con- 
version of  St.  Paul ;  1 83,  Alessio  Tiarini, 
the  Marriage  of  St.  Catherine,  in  the 
presence  ot  SS.  Joseph,  Margaret,  and 
Catherine;  55,  CavedonCf  The  Virgin 
in  glory,  with  SS.  Eloy  and  Petronius. 
St.  £loy,  a  blacksmith,  was  one  of  the 
patrons  of  Bologna ;  282,  F,  Brizzi,  A 
Madonna  with  4  Saints ;  287,  C, 
Gennarif  the  Apparition  of  the  Virgin 
to  St.  Nicholas  of  Bari ;  145,  D.  Tin- 
torettOy  the  Visitation. 

The  last  Room  (VIII.),  forming  the 
continuation  of  the  three  latter,  con- 
tains a  large  number  of  miscellaneous 
pictures,  although  chiefly  of  the  Bblog- 
nese  School:  those  most  worthy  of 
notice  are,  74,  Prospero  Fontana,  a 
Deposition ;  75,  Lavinia  Fontana,  San 
Francesco  da  Paola  giving  his  blessing 
to  the  son  of  a  duchess  of  Savoy ;  14, 
Guercinoy  Murder  of  St.  Peter,  martyr ; 
48,  Lud,  Caraccij  the  Madonna  of  the 
Conception,  with  Saints  Jerome  and 
Francis;  29,  Sirrione  da  Pesaro,  an 
Assumption,  with  two  Sainis;  95,  E. 
Gennari,  the  Holy  Trinity;  82,  F. 
Franciay  a  Predella,  with  the  Nativity, 
and  Crucifixion  ;  Guido,  a  fine  drawing 
in  coloured  crayons  of  the  Head  of  the 
Saviour  crowned  with  Thorns. 

Opening  out  of  the  same  corridor 
from  which  the  Pinacoteca  is  entered 
is  the  Ophteca,  a  collection  of  arms  and 
warlike  implements,  formed  chiefly  by 
Count  Marsigli:  it  possesses  little  to 
interest  the  traveller  who  has  seen  those 
at  Turin,  Venice,  and  Genoa. 

Beyond  the  Oploteca  is  the  library, 
and  the  apartment  in  which  the  members 
of  ^he  Academy  hold  their  meetings : 
in  It  are  some  interesting  drawings  of 
the  Bolognese  school,  and  portraits  of 
its  celebrities ;  a  few  fine  specimens  of 
niello  work,  two  of  which  by  F.  Franciay 
and  relics  of  the  Caracci. 

The  Universitf/  of  Bologna,  cele- 
brated as  the  oldest  in  Italy,  and  as 


the  first  in  which  academical  degrees 
were  conferred,  was  long  the  glory  of 
its  citizens.  It  was  founded  in  1119 
by  Irnerius,  or  Wemerus,  a  learned 
civilian,  who  taught  the  law  with  such 
reputation  in  his  native  city,  that  he 
acquired  the  title  of  **  Lucerna  Juris." 
During  the  troubled  period  of  the 
12th  century  the  fame  of  this  uni- 
versity attracted  students  from  all 
parts  of  Europe ;  no  less  than  10,000 
are  said  to  have  assembled  there  in 
1262,  and  it  became  necessary  to  ap- 
point regents  and  professors  for  the  stu- 
dents of  each  country.  Irnerius  suc- 
ceeded in  introducing  the  Justinian 
code;  his  disciples  were  called  Glos- 
sators, who,  treading  in  the  footsteps 
of  their  master  for  nearly  2  centm'ies, 
spread  the  study  of  the  Roman  law  over 
Plurope,  and  sent  to  England  Vacarius, 
one  of  the  ablest  of  their  body.  At 
this  period  civil  and  canon  law  formed 
almost  the  exclusive  study  at  Bologna ; 
the  faculties  of  medicine  and  arts  were 
added  before  the  commencement  of  the 
14th  century;  and  Innocent  VI.  insti- 
tuted a  theological  faculty  some  years 
later.  In  the  14th  century  also  it 
acquired  celebrity  as  the  first  school 
where  dissection  of  the  human  body 
was  practised;  and  in  more  recent  times 
it  became  renowned  for  the  discovery 
of  Galvanism  within  its  walls.  The 
University  of  Bologna  has  also  been 
remarkable  for  an  honour  peculiarly 
its  own — the  number  of  its  learned  fe- 
male professors.  In  the  14th  century, 
Novella  d' Andrea,  daughter  of  the  ce- 
lebrated canonist,  frequently  occupied 
her  father's  chair;  and  it  is  recorded  by 
Christina  de  Pisan,  that  her  beauty  was 
so  striking  that  a  curtain  was  drawn 
before  her  in  order  not  to  distract  the 
attention  of  the  students. 

*'  Drawn  before  her, 
Lest,  if  her  charms  were  seen,  the  students 
Should  let  their  young  eyes  wander  o'er  her. 
And  quite  forget  their  jurispradence."—ifoo>e. 

The  name  of  Laura  Bassi,  professor 
of  Mathematics  and  Natural  Philoso- 
phy, is  of  more  recent  date ;  she  had 
the  degree  of  Doctor  of  Laws,  and  her 
lectures  were  regularly  attended  by 
many  learned  ladies  of  France  and  Ger- 
many, who  were  members  of  the  Uni- 


498 


Houte  61. — Bologna — Museums, 


Sect.  VII. 


yersity.  Another,  and,  as  our  Enelish 
travellers  may  consider,  more  surprising 
instance,  is  that  of  Madonna  Manzolina, 
who  graduated  in  surgery  and  was  Pro- 
fessor of  Anatomy;  and  nearer  our 
own  times,  the  Greek  chair  was  filled 
b^r  the  learned  Matilda  Tambroni,  the 
friend  and  immediate  predecessor,  we 
believe,  of  Cardinal  Mezzofanti.  At 
the  present  time  the  university  has  lost 
its  high  reputation  as  a  school  of  law, 
and  the  traveller  who  is  interested  in 
the  early  history  of  the  Glossators  will 
be  disappointed  in  his  enquiries  at 
Bologna.  Medical  studies  appear  to  have 
the  superiority,  and  the  name  of  Tom- 
masini  has  given  a  reputation  to  it  as 
a  clinical  school,  which  has  been  well 
maintained  by  other  professors  since 
his  removal  to  Parma.  The  number  of 
students  scarcely  now  reaches  700. 

The  noble  Palace  in  the  Strada  S. 
Donato,  which  includes  the  University, 
the  Institute,  the  Museum  of  Natural 
History,  &c.,  was  formerly  the  Palazzo 
Cellesi.  It  was  built  by  Cardinal  Poggi, 
the  front  being  designed  by  Pellegrino 
Tibaldi,  and  the  nne  and  imposing 
court  by  Bartolommeo  Triacchini,  a 
native  architect  of  the  16th  century. 
It  was  purchased  in  17 14  by  the  Senate 
of  Bologna,  to  receive  the  library  and 
the  collections  of  natural  history  and 
scientific  instruments  presented  to  the 
city,  as  the  foundation  of  a  national 
institute,  by  Count  Marsigli,  the  friend 
of  Sir  Isaac  Newton,  and  a  fellow  of 
the  Royal  Society  of  London. 

The  Palace  at  first  included  the 
Academy  of  Sciences,  or  the  Insti- 
tuto  delle  Scienze  di  Bologna,  founded 
in  the  17th  century,  by  a  noble 
youth  named  Manfredi,  at  the  age  of 
16,  who  formed  a  literary  society 
at  his  house,  and  assembled  there  all 
the  men  of  talent  in  the  citv.  In  1803 
the  university  was  transferred  here, 
iinder  the  general  name  of  the  "  Pon- 
tificia  Universita." 

The  halls  of  the  Loggiato  and  the 
adjoining  chambers  are  remarkable  for 
their  frescoes,  by  Pellegrino  TSbaldi 
and  Niccolb  Abbate,  In  the  court  is  a 
statue  of  Hercules  in  grey  stone,  by 
Angelo  Pio,  a  sculptor  of  some  repute  I 
in  the  17  th  cent.     In  the  upper  cor- 1 


ridor  are  several  memorials,  erected  in 
honour  of  celebrated  professors  and 
others,  natives  of  the  city ;  and  in  the 
lower  one  a  handsome  monument  to 
Count  Rossi,  who  had  been  professor 
here,  assassinated  at  Rome  in  1848. 

The  Cabinet  of  Natural  Philosophy 
contains  some  paintings  by  Niccolb  Ab- 
bate. The  Anatomical  Museum  is  rich ; 
and  the  various  branches  of  pathological, 
general,  and  obstetrical  anatomy  are  j 
well  illustrated  by  preparations  and  wax 
models.  The  Museum  of  Natural  His- 
tory has  been  considerably  augmented 
of  late  years,  and  the  rooms  in  which 
it  is  contained  newly  fitted  up  a  few 
years  ago  at  the  expense  of  Cardinal 
Opizzoni,  Archbishop  of  Bologna ;  it  is 
well  arranged,  and  contains  a  good 
geological  collection  of  fossils  from  the 
country  around — amon^t  the  latter 
the  head  and  nearly  entire  skeleton  of 
a  gigantic  Dugong  (mermaid)  recently 
discovered  in  the  pliocene  beds  at 
Riota,  near  Pianora,  on  the  road  to 
Pietramala.  Upon  one  of  the  walls 
are  suspended  the  chains  by  which 
Count  Marsili  was  bound  when  a 
prisoner  with  the  Turks.  The  geolo- 
gical collection  will  interest  travellers 
for  the  many  specimens  of  fossil  organic 
remains  from  difierent  parts  of  Italy. 
The  Museum  of  Antiquities,  on  the 
ground-floor,  is  small,  but  possesses 
some  curious  and  interesting  frag- 
ments. The  first  apartment  contains 
the  inscriptions,  among  which  is  that 
belonging  to  the  sacred   well,   which 

fave  rise  to  the .  commentary  of 
'aciaudi  on  the  "  Puteus  Sacer  ; " 
2  milestones  from  the  Via  Emilia, 
numbered  CC.  and  CCXXCVI.;  2 
fragments  of  latercoli,  or  military  re- 
gisters ;  and  a  large  number  of  sepul- 
chral tablets.  The  second  chamber 
contains  some  Egyptian  and  Etruscan 
antiquities;  among  the.  latter  is  the 
fragment  of  the  celebrated  engraved 
plate,  or,  according  to  Chev.  Inghimmi, 
of  a  mystic  mirror,  called,  from  the 
name  of  its  first  possessor,  the  Cospiana 
Patera.  It  represents  the  birth  of  Mi- 
nerva, who  issues  armed  from  the  head 
of  Jupiter,  while  Venus  is  caressing 
him.  The  names  of  the  figures  are  in 
Etruscan  characters.    Another  mirror 


RoMAGNA.        JSowfe  61. — Bohgna — University  Library, 


499 


represents,  but  in  relief,  Philoctetes 
healed  by  Machaon,  the  names  of  which 
are  also  in  Etruscan  characters.  The 
following  are  worthy  of  examination. 
A  semi-colossal  bronze  foot  and  a 
Bacchic  vase  in  marble,  both  found  in 
the  island  of  Capri ;  a  series  of  Roman 
weights  in  black  stone,  and  some  metal 
weights  of  the  middle  ages;  among 
which  is  one  of  the  time  of  Charle- 
magne, with  the  inscription  "  Pondus 
Caroli."  In  the  third  chamber  are 
some  architectural  remains,  with  2 
fragments  of  marble  torsi,  the  one  of  a 
Venus  coming  out  of  the  bath,  the  other 
of  the  same  goddess  standing ;  a  male 
torso,  attributed  to  Augustus,  found  in . 
the  Via  di  S.  Mamolo ;  an  Isiac  table  of 
black  basalt,  found  on  the  Aventine  in 
1709,  and  an  elliptical  vase  of  porphyry. 
In  the  next  chamber  are  works  after 
the  Revival,  among  which  is  the  bronze 
statue  of  Boniface  VUI.,  attributed  to 
Andrea  da  Pisa,  erected  by  the  Bo- 
lognese  in  1301 ;  it  is  remarkable  as 
showing  the  low  state  of  art  at  that 
period.  Some  carved  ivories  and  Ma- 
jolica plates  are  worthy  of  notice.  The 
collection  of  Medals  contains  some  an- 
cient Roman  coins,  Greek  ones  from 
Sicily,  a  collection  of  Italian  and  foreign 
moneys,  and  a  good  series  of  modern 
medals  of  sovereigns  and  illustrious 
men.  There  is  also  a  small  collection 
of  geins,  among  which  is  the  MafFei^ 
agate,  representing  Achilles  and  Ulys- 
ses, highly  prized  by  archaeologists. 
It  would  be  an  omission  in  an  account 
of  the  antiquities  of  Bologna  not  to 
mention  the  celebrated  Latin  inscrip- 
tion discovered  in  some  excavations  of 
the  city.  This  famous  riddle,  which 
gavcriseto  so  much  learned  controversy 
m  the  17th  century,  is  as  follows: — 
"  D.  M.  i^LiA  Ljelia  Cbispis,  nee  vir, 
nee  mvlier,  nee  androgyna,  nee  pvella, 
nee  jvvenis,  nee  anvs,  nee  casta,  nee  me- 
retnx,  nee  pvdica,  sed  omnia ;  svblata 
neqve  fame,  neqve  ferro,  neqve  veneno, 
sed  omnibvs  ;  nee  ccelo,  nee  aqvis,  nee 
terris,  sed  vbiqve  jacet.  Lvcivs  Agatho 
Priscivs,  nee  maritvs,  nee  amator,  nee 
necessarivs,  neqve  moerens,  neqve  gav- 
dens,  neqve  flens,  banc  nee  molem,  nee 
pyramidem,  nee  sepvlchrvm,  sed  omnia, 
scit  et  nescit  cvi  posverit."    At  the  top 


of  the  building  of  the  University  is  the 
Observatory,  containing  some  good 
astronomical  instruments.  The  view 
from  the  terrace  of  its  tower  is  most 
extensive,  and  no  traveller  should 
leave  Bologna  without  ascending  to  it, 
which  is  easily  done  on  application  to 
the  Custode  of  the  University, 

The  University  Library  occupies  a 
building  constructed  by  Carlo  Dotti, 
and  added  to  the  Institute  by  Bene- 
dict XIV.  It  contains  about  180,000 
printed  volumes  and  6000  manuscripts ; 
of  these,  not  less,  it  is  said,  than  20,000 
volumes  were  presented  by  that  pope, 
who  also  induced  Cardinal  Monti,  ano- 
ther native  of  Bologna,  to  follow  his 
patriotic  example.  Among  the  printed 
books  are  the  following :  the  first  edi- 
tion of  Henry  VIII.'s  famous  Assertio 
Septem  Sacramentorum  adversua  Marti- 
num  Lutherum,  Lond,  in  (Edihus  Pyn- 
807itanis,  1512,  dedicated  to  Leo  X., 
with  the  autograph  signature  "  Henri- 
cus  Rex;"  and  about  200  volumes  of 
scientific  MSS.  by  Ulysses  Aldrovandi. 

It  is  scarcely  possible  to  consider 
any  record  of  this  library  complete 
which  fails  to  commemorate  its  con- 
nexion with  one  of  the  extraordinary 
men  of  our  age,  the  late  Cardinal 
Mezzofanti,  who  commenced  his  career 
as  its  librarian.  He  was  the  son  of 
an  humble  tradesman  of  Bologna,  and 
had  become  celebrated  throughout  Eu- 
rope for  his  knowledge  of  languages, 
even  while  he^  filled  the  chair  of  pro- 
fessor of  Greek  and  Oriental  literature 
in  this  university ;  but  it  remained  for 
the  late  pope  (Gregory  XVI.)  to  rai^e 
him  from  the  humbler  dignity  of  an 
abb^  to  the  highest  honours  which  it 
was  in  his  power  to  confer.  At  the 
age  of  36  Mezzofanti  is  said  to  have 
been  able  to  read  20,  and  to  converee 
fluently  in  18  languages;  at  the  time 
of  his  death  in  1849  he  spoke  42.  Mez- 
zofanti was  called  to  Rome  by  the  late 
pope,  and  appointed  to  a  post  in  the 
Vatican  Library,  under  Mai ;  and  when 
that  illustrious  scholar  was  created  a 
cardinal,  Mezzofanti  was  raised  to  the 
same  dignity.  Perhaps  the  English 
traveller  may  desire  no  higher  evi- 
dence   of  the  unequalled   powers    of 


500 


Boute  6 1 . — Bologna —  Cathedral, 


Sect.  vn. 


Cardioal  Mezzofenti  than  the  follow- 
ing extract  from  the  *  Detached 
Thoughts '  of  Lord  Byron :—  "  I 
do  not  recollect,"  he  says,  "  a  single 
foreign  literary  character  that  I  wished 
to  see  twice,  except,  perhaps,  Mezzo* 
fanti,  who  is  a  prodigy  of  language,  a 
Briareus  .of  the  parts  of  speech,  a 
walking  library,  who  ought  to  have 
lived  at  the  time  of  the  tower  of 
Babel,  as  universal  mterpreter;  a  real 
miracle,  and  without  pretension  too. 
I  tried  him  in  all  the  languages  of 
which  1  knew  only  an  oath  or  adjura- 
tion of  the  gods  against  postilions, 
savages,  pirates,  boatmen,  sailors,  pi- 
lots, gondoliers,  muleteers,  camel-driv- 
ers, vetturini,  postmasters,  horses,  and 
houses,  and  everything  in  post  I  and, 
by  Heaven  I  he  puzzled  me  in  my  own 
idiom."  A  new  hall  has  been  recently 
added  to  the  library,  dedicated  to  Mez- 
zofanti,  to  contain  the  manuscripts  ; 
amongst  which  are  some  interesting 
ones  of  Tasso,  a  number  of  Voltaire's 
letters  to  Frederick  of  Prussia,  letters 
of  Metastasio,  Mezzofanti's  Catalogues, 
a  number  of  illuminated  Books  of 
Hours,  &c.  In  a  small  adjoining  hall 
is  Mezzofanti's  own  Library,  which  he 
bequeathed  to  the  University. 

In  connexion  with  the  University, 
there  remain  to  be  noticed  the  Bo- 
tanical and  Agricultural  Gardens,  and 
the  Public  Hospitals.  The  Botanical 
Qarden  was  formed  in  1804,  on  the  site 
of  the  ancient  CoUegio  Ferrerio  de' 
Piemontesi.  The  Agricultural  Garden  y 
Orto  Agrario,  one  of  the  results  of  the 
French  occupation,  was  commenced  in 
1805  as  a  practical  school  for  agricul- 
tural students,  for  whom  a  course  of 
theoretical  and  experimental  lectures 
on  agriculture  are  delivered.  The  lec- 
ture-room is  the  ancientPalazzino  della 
Viola,  formerly  the  villa  of  Giovanni 
II.,  Bentivoglio,  and  celebrated  for  its 
frescoes  by  Innocenzo  da  Imola,  These 
fine  works  represent  Diana  and  Endy- 
mion ;  Actseon  metamorphosed  into  a 
stag;  Marsyas,  Apollo,  and  Cybele. 
There  were  originally  other  frescoes  by 
Costa,  Chiodarolo,  Aspertini,  Prospero 
Fontana,  and  Niccolo  dell'  Abbate,  but 
they  have  all  been  destroyed  for  the  pur- 
pose of  building  additional  apartments. 


The  Great  Hospital  {Ospedale  Grande) 
was  founded  in  1667 ;  the  clinical  cases 
are  received  in  a  separate  building, 
near  the  university,  called  the  OspedcUe 
AzzoUniy  from  the  Senator  Fi^ancesco 
Azzolini,  by  whom  it  was  founded,  in 
1 706,  for  the  sick  and  infirm  poor  of 
the  parish  of  S.  M.  Maddalena.  In 
the  Borgo  di  S.  Giuseppe  is  the  Ospe- 
dale  de*  Settuagenarij  for  the  aged 
poor ;  and  in  the  ancient  Benedictine 
Monastery  of  S.  Procolo  is  the  Ospe- 
dale  degli  Esposti,  for  foundlings,  re- 
cently enlarged.  Dr.  Fraser  conveys  the 
following  information  of  the  Ospedale 
Grande: — "A  good  hospital  and  a 
separate  building  for  clinical  cases. 
There  are  at  present  500  students. 
There  is  a  large  collection  of  anatomi- 
cal figures,  but  it  is  inferior  to  that  at 
Florence." 

Churches,  —  Among  the  hundred 
churches  of  Bologna  there  are  few 
which  do  not  contain  some  painting 
which,  if  not  itself  a  masterpiece,  sup- 
plies an  episode  in  the  history  of  art. 
In  the  following  pages  we  have  given 
such  details  as  will  enable  the  traveller 
to  select  and  judge  for  himself  amidst 
the  multiplicity  of  riches ;  at  the  same 
time  the  artist  will  bear  in  mind  that 
there  are  very  few  of  them  from  which 
he  will  fail  to  derive  instruction. 

The  Duomo,  or  Cathedral,  dedicated 
to  St.  Peter,  is  a  very  ancient  founda- 
tion, but  it  has  been  several  times  re- 
built. The  present  edifice  was  begun  in 
1605 ;  the  front  and  some  of  the  chapels 
were  added  in  1748  by  Benedict  XIV., 
from  the  designs  of  Torregiani,  The 
interior  is  in  the  Corinthian  style;  on 
each  side  of  the  door  are  rude  lions  in 
red  Verona  marble,  on  which  stand 
vases  for  holy  water;  they  probably 
supported  the  columns  of  the  portal  of 
the  ancient  edifice,  and  are  attributed 
to  Ventura  di  Bologna.  In  the  2nd 
chapel  on  the  rt.  is  preserved  the  skull 
of  St.  Anna,  presented  in  1435  by  King 
Henry  VI.  of  England  to  the  Blessed 
Nicolo  Albergati.  In  the  3rd  chapel 
is  the  fine  work  of  Graziani,  a  native 
painter  of  the  18th  century,  represent- 
ing St.  Peter  consecrating  St.  ApoUi- 
naris.     In  the  cupola  before   the  4tli 


ROMAGNA. 


Roide  6 1 . — Bologna —  CatlwdraL 


601 


chapel  is  St.  Peter  commanding  Pope 
Celestin  to  select  S.  Petronius  bishop  of 
Bologna,  by  Bigari ;  and  over  the  altar 
the  Assumption,  with  St.  Koch  below, 
and  on  the  arch  frescoes  of  S.  Pan- 
eras  and  S.  Petronius,  by  Franceschini, 
painted  in  his  80th  year.  The  Sacristy 
contains,  among  other  works,  a  Cruci- 
fixion, by  Bagnacavallo ;  and  in  the 
Camera  del  Capitolo,  opening  out  of 
it,  a  St.  Peter  mourning  with  the  Virgin 
for  the  death  of  the  Saviour,  a  strange 
Invention,  by  Lodovico  Caracci.  In 
the  passage  leading  to  the  Sacristy 
there  is  a  curious  bas-relief  of  the 
ieth  century  on  the  tomb  of  Lorenzo 
Pini,  a  Doctor  of  Laws,  of  a  pror 
fessor  teaiching.  The  choir,  designed 
by  Domenico  Tibaldi,  has  on  the  vault 
a  fine  painting  designed  by  Fiorini 
and  coloured  by  Aretusi,  represent- 
ing our  Saviour  giving  the  keys  to 
St.  Peter  in  the  presence  of  the  12 
apostles;  and  on  the  arch  above  the 
high  altar  the  celebrated  painting  of 
the  Annunciation,  the  last  work  of 
Ijodovico  Caracci,  The  foot  of  the 
angel  bending  before  the  Virgin  was  a 
Jittle  crooked,  and  it  is  related  that, 
when  the  aged  artist  made  the  dis- 
covery, he  offered  to  defray  the  ex- 
pense of  re-erecting  the  scaffold  in 
order  that  he  might  re-touch  it,  but 
the  request  was  refused,  and  Lodovico 
died  of  grief  a  few  days  after.  In  1 8.S0 
the  error  was  connected  by  Prof.  Fan- 
celli,  who  was  employed  to  clean  and 
restoi*e  the  paintings  in  this  chapel  and 
in  the  Sacristy.  Returning  towards  the 
entrance,  the  chapels  of  the  opposite 
side  remain  to  be  examined.  The 
chapel  of  the  SS.  Sacramento  contains 
a  work  by  Donato  Creti  which  has 
been  much  admired :  it  represents  the 
Virgin  with  the  infant  Saviour  in  the 
clouds,  surrounded  by  angels,  with  S. 
Ignatius  before  her.  The  gilt  bronze 
ornaments  were  executed  at  the  cost 
of  Benedict  XIV,,  when  archbishop 
of  this  his  native  city.  On  the  adjoin- 
ing pier  is  the  monument  of  Cardinal 
Lante ;  and  .  at  the  extremity  of  the 
N.  aisle  one  to  Gregory  XV.  In 
the  Baptistery  is  a  good  painting 
of  the  Baptism  of  our  Saviour,  by 
Ercole  Grazini.    On  St.  Peter's  day  | 


some  fine  tapestries,  are  exhibited  in 
this  church,  executed  at  Rome  from 
the  designs  of  Raphael  Mengs,  and 
presented  by  the  same  pontiff.  The 
ch.  beneath  the  choir  is  curious:  it 
contains  numerous  relics,  and  some 
works  of  art,  among  which  the  two 
Marys  weeping  over  the  dead  body  of 
Christ  is  by  Alfonso  Lomhardo.  Be- 
hind the  cathedral  is  the  archbishop's 
palace,  a  fine  and  spacious  modem 
edifice.  There  are  some  good  slab 
tombs  from  the  floor  of  the  old  cathe- 
dral in  the  passage  leading  from  the 
church  to  the  episcopal  residence ;  and 
the  fine  Lombard  bell-tower,  almost  all 
that  remains  of  the  original  cathedral. 
The  elegant  Ch.  of  S,  Bartolommeo 
di  Porta  Bavegjiana,  near  the  ToiTe 
degr  Asinelli,  was  commenced  in 
1653,  on  the  site  of  a  more  ancient 
building  erected  in  1530,  from  the 
designs  of  Andrea  da  Formigine. 
The  original  site  was  occupied  by  an 
ancient  ch.  built  in  the  5th  century 
by  S.  Petronius  on  the  foundations 
of  one  of  the  early  Christians.  The 
portico  of  Formigine  is  still  preserved  ; 
and  the  bas-reliefs  of  its  pilasters,  the 
work  of  Lombard  sculptors,  are  well 
worthy  of  observation.  The  ch.  contains 
some  interesting  paintings:  in  the  2nd 
chapel  on  the  rt.  is  S.  Carlo  Borromeo 
kneeling  before  the  tomb  at  Varallo, 
by  Lod,  Caracci.  4th.  An  Annuncia- 
tion, significantly  called  "  del  bell* 
Angelo,"  a  beautiful  and  expressive 
work  of  Albano ;  by  whom  also  are  the 
lateral  pictures  of  the  Birth  of  the 
Saviour  and  the  Angel  warning  Joseph 
to  fly  out  of  Egypt.  7th,  "The  picture 
in  the  choir  behind  the  high  altar  is  by 
Fianceschinii  representing  the  Martyr- 
dom of  St.  Bartholomew,  a  grand  but 
horrible  picture,  yet  less  savage  than 
the  statue  at  Milan  of  the  same  subject, 
as  here  at  least  the  actual  representa- 
tion of  torture  is  spared.  The  saint  is 
tied  (in  reality  bound  to  a  column) 
and  drawn  up  high  to  a  tree  for  sacri- 
fice ;  two  ferocious  figures  are  seen 
tightening  the  ropes,  while  a  third  is 
deliberately  preparing  to  excoriate  one 
of  his  legs,  where  a  little  blood  appears, 
but  there  only."— Bell.  The  frescoes, 
representing  the  events  iu  the  life  of  S. 

2  A  3 


fe02 


Houte  61, — Bologna — Churc/ies, 


Sect.  Vli 


Gaetano,  are  by  the  pupils  of  Cignanu 
2nd  on  the  1.,  B.  Antony  of  Padua,  by 
Tiarini.  1  st  on  L ,  the  St.  Bartholomew, 
the  altarpiece  of  the  old  church,  is  by 
Aretusi,  The  paintings  on  the  roof  of 
the  nave  are  by  Colonna,  into  which  are 
introduced  numerous  members  of  the 
order  of  the  Theatins,  to  whom  the  ch. 
formerly  belonged.  The  artist  is  said 
to  have  received  in  payment  the  3rd 
chapel  on  the  rt.,  which  he  also  deco- 
rated with  his  frescdes. 

The  Ch.  of  S.  Bartolommeo  di  Reno 
is  remarkable  for  some  works  of  the 
Caracci.  In  the  6th  chapel  is  the 
Nativity,  by  Agostino  Caracci,  painted 
at  the  age  of  27.  The  two  Prophets  on 
the  vault  of  the  chapel  are  by  the  same 
master.  The  two  fine  pictures  of  the 
Circumcision  and  the  Adoration  of  the 
Magi  are  by  Lad.  Caracci ;  the  last  of 
these  has  been  engraved  by  his  cousin 
Annibale.  The  marble  ornaments  are 
by  Gabriele  Fiorini,  The  Capella 
Maggiore  contains  a  miraculous  image 
of  the  Virgin,  of  very  high  antiquity, 
called  "  La  Madonna  della  Pioggia." 
Opposite  the  stairs  leading  to  the  oratory 
is  a  large  landscape  by  Mattioli^  an 
engraver.  The  oratory  contains  a 
St.  Bartholomew,  by  Alfonso  Lorn- 
hardo, 

T7ie  Ch,  of  S.  Benedetto,  near  the 
Porta  di  Galliera,  has,  in  the  1st 
chapel,  the  Marriage  of  St.  Catherine 
in  the  presence  of  4  Saints,  by  Lucio 
Massari.  In  the  2nd,  the  4  Prophets  are 
by  Giacomo  Cavedone,  and  the  Annun- 
ciation by  E.  Procaccini.  In  the  4th, 
S.  Antonio  Abate  beaten  by  demons, 
the  beautiful "  Charity  "  on  the  ceiling, 
and  the  Virtues  of  God  the  Father,  are 
also  by  Cavedone.  5th,  S.  Francesco 
di  Paola,.by  Gabriele  Ferrantint,  ovlC 
of  the  masters  of  Guido.  The  descent 
from  the  Cross,  over  the  high  altar,  is 
by  Fiorini  and  Aretusi,  7th,  S.  Antony 
of  Padua,  by  Cavedone,  11th,  the 
Virgin  holding  the  crown  of  thorns,  and 
conversing  with  the  Magdalen  on  her 
son's  death,  an  expressive  work  of 
Tiarini;  by  whom  are  also  the  Pro- 
phets and  the  Angels  on  the  side  walls. 
In  the  Sacristy  is  a  picture  of  the  Cruci- 
fixion, with  the  Virgin,  the  Archangel 
Michael,  and  St.  Catherine,  by  Andrea, 


the  father  of  Elisabetta,  Sirani,   re- 
touched by  Guido. 

The  Ch.  of  Santa  Maria  dellti  Ca* 
rita,  in  the  Strada  di  S.  Felice,  at- 
tached to  a  Franciscan  convent,  sup- 
pressed in  1798,  and  converted  into  a 
military  hospital,  contains,  in  the  1st 
chapel,  the  Visitation  by  Galanino, 
extolled  by  Malvasia.  The  3rd  chapel 
contains  the  picture  of  St.  Elizabeth  of 
Hungary  in  a  swoon  at  the  Saviour's 
appearing  to  her,  by  Franceschini,  O  ver 
the  high  altar  are  the  Virgin  and  Child, 
and  Charity  and  St.  Francis,  another 
joint  work  of  Fiorini  and  Aretusi.  .5th. 
the  Virgin  and  Child,  St.  Joseph  and 
St.  Antony  of  Padua,  by  Felice,  son  of 
Carlo  Cignani.  6th,  Sta.  Anna,  by  the 
elder  Bihiena. 

The  ancient  Oratory  of  Sta.  Cecilia, 
behind  the  ch.  of  S.  Giacomo  Maggiore. 
(p.  506,  the  Sacristano  of  which  has  the 
keys),  erected  in  1481  at  the  expense 
of  Giovanni  II.  Bentivoglio,  once  cele- 
brated for  its  frfescoes  by  early  painters 
of  Bologna,  was  desecrated  during  the 
French  occupation,  but  it  still  exhibits 
many  interesting  fragments  for  study. 
The  following  enttEierati**n  of  the  sub- 
jects, commencing  on  the  rt.  hand,  may 
be  useful,  although,  from  the  state 
of  ruin  in  which  the  edifice  is,  it  will  be 
difficult  to  recognise  many  of  them : — 
1,  The  Marriage  of  St.  Valerian  with 
Sta.  Cecilia,  by  F.  Francia.  2,  Valerian 
instructed  in  the  faith  by  St.  Urban, 
by  Xor.  Costa.  3,  The  Baptism  of 
Valerian,  by  Giacomo  Francia  (?). 
4,  the  Angel  crowning  the  betrothed 
Saints  with  garlands  of  roses,  by 
Chiodarolo.  5,  the  brothers  Vale- 
rian and  Tiburtius  beheaded  in  the 
presence  of  the  Prefect.  6,  Their  Fu- 
neral. 7,  Sta.  Cecilia  and  the  Prefect : 
these  three  subjects  are  by  Amico  As' 
pertini.  8,  Sta.  Cecilia  placed  in  the 
boiling  bath,  by  Giacomo  Francia.  9, 
the  Saint  distributing  her  riches  to  the 
poor,  by  Costa.  10,  her  Funeral,  a 
very  graceful  composition,  by  Francesco 
Francia.  hi  order  to  preserve  what 
remains  of  these  interesting  works  the 
late  government  repaired  the  chapel, 
and  handed  it  over  to  the  Accade- 
mia  delle  Belle  Arti,  to  be  in  future 
used  in  its  religious  ceremonies.    In 


KoMAGNA.     Mouk  61. — Bobgiva — Churches — San  Domenico^  603 


the  interior  of  the  suppressed  Angus- 
tine  convent  are  some  good  specimens 
of  terracotta  ornaments. 

TTie  Ch.  of  the  Celeatini,  behind  that 
of  S.  Petronius,  with  a  facade  from  the 
designs  of  Francesco  Tadolini,  1765, 
has  in  its  1st  chapel  one  of  the  best 
works  of  Lucio  Massari  —  the  Sa- 
viour appearing  to  the  Magdalen  in 
the  form  of  a  dove.  The  painting  at 
the  high  altar,  representing  the  Virgin 
and  Cnild,  with  John  the  Baptist,  St. 
Luke,  and  S.  Pietro  Celestino,  is  by 
Fraivceschini,  The  paintings  on  the 
vault  of  the  ch.  are  by  Boni* 

The  Ch,  of  the  Corpus  Domini,  in  the 
street  leading  to  and  near  the  Porta  S. 
Mamolo,  called  also  La  Santa  from 
Sta.  Caterina  Vigri  of  Bologna,  is 
attached  to  a  very  extensive  nunnery. 
The  trescoes  of  the  cupola,  the  roof, 
and  the  walls,  are  by  Marcantonio 
Franceschini  and  Luigi  Quaini,  1st 
chapel,  St.  Francis,  with  a  fine  land- 
scape, by  Calveart.  4th,  the  Saviour 
appearing  to  the  Virgin,  with  the 
Patriarchs;  and  the  Apostles  engaged 
in  the  burial  of  the  Virgin,  are 
by  Lodovico  Caracci,  The  statues 
of  the  Virgin  and  Child,  the  bas- 
reliefs  of  the  mysteries  of  the  Ro- 
sary which  surround  them,  and  the 
two  large  Angels,  are  by  Giuseppe 
Mazza,  by  whom  are  also  the  bas- 
reliefs  over  the  high  altar.  The  picture 
representing  Christ  feeding  the  Apostles 
is  a  celebrated  work  by  Marcantonio 
Franceschini.  The  Annunciation,  in 
the  2nd  ch.  on  the  1.,  is  by  Franceschinif 
whose  masterpiece,  the  Death  of  St. 
Joseph,  is  in  the  Ist,  the  ceiling  of 
which  is  also  painted  in  fresco  by  him. 
The  unfinished  facade  of  this  ch.  has  a 
good  door  in  moulded  terra^cotta. 

The  Ch,  of  S,  Cristina,  attached  to 
an  Augustinian  Convent,  is  decorated 
with  paintings  executed  almost  entirely 
at  the  expense  of  dififerent  nuns.  The 
Ascension,  at  the  high  altar,  is  by 
Lodovico  Caracci;  the  Nativity  and 
the  Journey  of  the  Magi,  in  the  1st 
chapel,  are  by  Giacomo  Francia.  The 
figures^f  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul,  in  the 
niches  between  the  pilasters,  are  the 
production  of  Guido  in  his  youth. 

The  Ch,  of  San  Domenico,  celebrated 


as  containing  the  tombs  of  St.  Domi-. 
nick,  the  founder  of  the  order  of 
Preaching  Friars  and  of  the  Inquisition, 
of  King  Hensius,  of  Taddeo  Pepoli, 
and  of  Guido,  is  also  rich  in  worli  of 
art.  The  interior,  originally  in  the 
Italian-Gothic  style,  has  been  succes- 
sively altered,  so  as  to  present  little  of 
its  original  character ;  the  great  portail 
is  a  fine  Lombard  arch;  behind  the 
present  Greek  portico  mav  be  seen 
portions  of  the  original  bnck  fa9ade^ 
but  the  best  portion  remaining  is  on 
the  N.  side,  corresponding  to  the  Chapel 
of  the  Rosary,  which  has  its  fine  marble 
Italian-Gothic  frieze  and  cornice  re- 
maining, and  the  outer  walls,  which 
were  pierced  with  two  ranges  of 
lancet-shaped  windows  now  bricked 
up.  The  Tomb  of  San  Dominick,  the 
early  triumph  of  Niccold  da  Pisa's 
genius,  in  the  large  chapel  out  of  the 
rt.  aisle,  forms  in  itself  an  epoch  in  the 
history  of  art,  which  ought  to  be  closely 
studied  by  those  interested  in  the  early 
history  of  modem  sculpture  as  ex- 
tremely beautiful,  whether  viewed  as  a 
whole  or  in  its  details.  This  great 
master,  who  has  been  justly  called  the 
precursor  of  the  revival  of  sculpture, 
did  not  complete  the  pulpit  at  Pisa 
until  35  years  after  the  date  of  the 
present  work  (1225),  and  consequently 
we  may  regard  this  as  the  foundation  of 
a  new  era  m  that  branch  of  art.  The 
bas-reliefs  by  Niccolb  da  Pisa  repre- 
sent various  events  in  the  life  of  the 
saint  and  the  miracles  performed  by 
him ;  they  surround  the  four  sides  of 
the  urn,  and  are  full  of  character 
and  truth.  In  front,  Napoleone  di 
Torre  Nuova  thrown  from  his  horse 
and  brought  to  life  by  St.  Dominick 
in  the  presence  of  his  family,  who 
are  deploring  his  death,  and  St.  Peter 
and  St.  Paul  in  heaven,  presenting  the 
saint  with  the  Gospels,  are  among 
the  most  remarkable  of  these  graceful 
compositions.  The  two  subjects  on 
the  back  of  the  urn — the  Vision  of 
Pope  Honorius  HI.,  and  S.  Reginald  of 
Orleans  healed  by  the  Virgin — are  by 
Fra  Guglielmo  Anelli.  Below  the  re- 
liefs in  front  is  another  interesting 
series  of  smaller  ones  by  Alfonso 
Lombardo,   forming  a    kind    of  pre- 


504  Eoute  61. — Bologna — Churches — San  Domenko,     Sect.  VII. 


della,  executed  three  centuries  later, 
and  not  superior  in  delicacy  or  feel- 
ing. One  of  the  small  statues  in 
front  of  the  urn,  that  of  S.  Petronius, 
with  his  ch.  in  his  hand,  is  a  work 
of  Michel  Angela  in  his  youth,  as 
is  likewise  the  beautiful  angel  on  the 
left,  now  made  to  hold  a  very  indiffer- 
ent candlestick.  It  is  recorded  in 
the  city  annals,  that  the  great  artist 
received  12  ducats  for  the  angel,  and  18 
for  the  S.  Petronius !  The  other  angel 
and  the  statues  of  SS.  Francis  and  Pro- 
culus  are,  according  to  Vasari,  by  Nicolb 
dell*  Area,  The  bas-reliefs  on  the 
front  of  the  altar,  representing  the  En- 
tombment of  St.  Dominick,  are  by 
Tasi  and  Salvolini,  artists  of  the  17th 
centy.  The  architecture  of  this  ((he 
6th  chapel,  on  the  rt.)  is  by  Terribilia ; 
the  1st  picture  on  the  rt.  hand,  the 
Child  brought  to  life,  is  one  of  the 
masterpieces  of  Tiarini,  and  was  much 
admired  by  Lodovico  Caracci.  The 
great  painting,  representing  a  Storm  at 
Sea,  in  which  St.  Dominick  is  rescuing 
the  sailors  by  praying  to  the  Virgin;  the 
knight  thrown  from  his  horse,  and 
brought  to  life  by  the  saint;  the  stories 
in  the  lunettes,  and  the  graceful  figures 
representing  his  virtues,  are  by  Mastel- 
letta.  The  fresco  on  the  vault  above 
the  altar,  representing  the  glory  of 
Paradise,  with  the  Saviour  and  the 
Virgin  receiving  the  soul  of  the  saint  in 
Paradise,  amidst  a  host  of  angels,  is  one 
of  the  finest  compositions  by  Guido, 
"  In  the  highest  circle  of  the  dome,  a 
soft  radiance,  emanating  from  the  Holy 
Spirit,  illuminates  the  picture,  touch- 
ing, with  partial  lights,  the  heads  of 
our  Saviour,  of  Mary,  and  the  saint, 
who  are  placed  at  -equal  distances, 
while  -a  choir  of  angels,  exquisitely 
designed,  and  finely  coloured,  fills  the 
space  below.  The  composition  of  the 
whole  rises  in  a  fine  pyramidical  form, 
harmonising  at  once  with  the  subject 
and  the  proportions  of  the  dome." — 
Bell.  The  saint  burning  the  books  of 
the  converted  heretics,  a  fine  painting, 
is  esteemed  the  masterpiece  of  Leonelh 
Spada. 

The  other  chapels  of  this  church 
present  additional  objects  of  interest: 
1st  on  rt.,  the  Madonna,  called  "Del 


Velluto,*'  a  small  picture  over  the  altar, 
by  Lippo  di  Dalmasio,  3rd,  St.  An- 
toninus with  the  Saviour  and  the 
Virgin  appearing  to  St.  Francis,  by 
Facinif  a  pupil  of  Annibale  Caracci. 
Below  it  is  a  Virgin,  attributed 
to  Francia.  4th,  St.  Andrew  the 
Apostle  preparing  for  his  martyrdom, 
by  Antonio  Rossi.  5th,  the  Madonna 
delle  Febbri,  a  good  picture  of  the  1 5th 
century,  brought  here  from  the  ch.  of 
St.  George,  where  it  had  a  reputation 
for  curing  fever  patients,  as  its  name 
indicates.  9th,  St.  Catherine  of  Siena, 
hy  Brizzi.  10th,  or  rt.-hand  transept, 
St.  Thomas  Aquinas  writing  on  the 
subject  of  the  eucharist,  with  2  in- 
spiring angels  and  a  host  above,  by 
Guercino.  Near  the  entrance  of  the 
Sacristy  from  here  is  the  monument 
erected  by  the  Clementine  Academy 
to  the  memory  of  Count  Marsili, 
the  founder  of  the  Institute,  whose 
patriotic  zeal  for  the  welfare  of 
Bologna,  and  whose  connexion  with 
the  science  of  England,  have  been 
noticed  in  a  previous  page. 

The  Sacristy  has  also  some  pictures 
and  other  objects  of  interest :  the  Birth 
of  the  Saviour," or  "La  Notte,"  by 
Zuca  Cangiasi,  is  a  repetition  of  the 
smaller  painting  preserved  in  the 
academv.  The  Paschal  Lamb  is  at- 
tributed to  Vasari.  The  S.  Jerome 
is  by  Leonello  Spada.  The  painting 
in  the  chapel,  the  Marriage  of  St, 
Catherine,  is  a  fine  work  by  Filippitw 
Lippi,  signed  and  dated  1501.  The 
Intarsiatura  of  the  armadie  or  presses 
and  of  the  entrance  door  are  by  the 
artists  who  executed  those  in  the  choir. 
The  large  statues  of  the  Virgin  and  of 
San  Domenico  are  of  cypress  wood,  and, 
according  to  the  verses  inscribed  un- 
derneath, were  carved  out  of  a  tree 
which  St.  Dominick  himself  had  planted 
— one  of  those,  perhaps,  which  Evelyn 
saw  growing  in  the  quadrangle  of  the 
convent  at  the  period  of  his  visit. 

The  choir  has  a  good  picture,  the 
Adoration  of  the  Magi,  by  Bartolom- 
meo  Cesi,  who  painted  also  the  SS, 
Nicholas  and  Dominick  alongside.  The 
stalls  of  the  choir  present  interesting 
examples  of  intarsia  works,  of  the  15th 


RoMA-GNA,     Route  61. — Bologna — Churches — San  Dmnemco, 


605 


century,  by  Fra  Damiano  da  Bergamo, 
;ind  by  Fra  Antonio  Asinelli,  both 
Domenican  friars ;  the  subjects  are 
taken  from  the  Old  and  New  Testa- 
ments. In  the  left-hand  transept  is  the 
monument  to  Hensius,  King  of  Sardinia, 
the  son  of  the  Emperor  Frederick  II., 
made  prisoner  by  the  Bolognese  in  1249, 
and  detained  here  in  captivity  until  his 
death  in  1272,  in  which  the  haughty  re- 
public makes  the  record  of  its  royal 
captivetheobjectofahighercompliment 
to  itself;  the  present  record  replaced 
in  1731  a  more  ancient  one.  In  singu- 
lar contrast  to  this  tomb,  the  adjoining 
chapel  contains  that  of  Taddeo  Pepoli 
(elected  to  the  supreme  authority  [in 
1337),  the  celebrated  ruler  of  Bologna, 
by  the  Venetian  artist  Jocopo  Lavfrani : 
the  urn,  of  an  elegant  form,  rests  on 
a  basement,  covered  with  black  and 
white  checker- work,  the  armorial  shield 
of  the  family.  The  sculptures  upon 
it  represent  Pepoli  rendering  justice 
to  his  fellow-citizens.  The  altarpiece, 
with  St.  Michael,  St.  Dominick,  St. 
Francis,  and  the  Saviour  with  Angels 
above,  is  by  Giacomo  Francia.  15th, 
the  Chapel  of  the  Relics :  among  the 
other  relics  here  preserved  is  the  head 
of  St.  Dominick,  in  a  silver  case  of 
114  lbs.  weight,  made  in  1383,  at  the 
joint  expense  of  the  city,  of  Bene- 
dict XI.,  and  of  Card.  Matteo  Orsini. 
The  body  of  the  Beato  Giacomo  da 
Ulma,  the  painter  on  glass,  is  also 
preserved  here.  On  the  wall  of  this 
chapel  is  the  disgusting  mummy  of  the 
Venerable  Serafino  Capponi.  Oppo- 
site the  monument  of  King  Hensius  is 
the  portrait  of  St.  Thomas  Aquinas,  by 
Simone  da  Bologna,  shown  by  the 
annals  of  the  Order  to  be  an  authentic 
likeness,  and  preserved  here,  as  the 
inscription  under  it  conveys,  during 
the  last  400  years-  17th:  the  Annunci- 
ation, by  CalvarL  The  magnificent 
chapel  dedicated  to  the  Madontw,  del 
EosariOf  opening  out  of  the  1.  aisle, 
contains  inscriptions  painted  on  the 
wall,  which  inspire  very  different  feel- 
ings from  that  of  the  founder  of  the 
Inquisition,  or  those  of  King  Hensius 
and  Pepoli :  those  of  Quido,  and  of  Elisa- 
betta  Sirani,  who  died  of  poison  in  her 
26th  year ;  they  are  both  buried,  but 


without  any  sepulchral  monuments,  in 
this  chapel.  Over  the  altar  is  a  series 
of  small  paintings  representing  the 
15  mysteries  of  the  Rosary;  the 
Visitation,  and  the  Flagellation  of 
our  Saviour,  are  by  Lod,  Caracci; 
others  are  by  Guide  and  B.  Cesi, 
The  statues  over  the  altarpiece  are 
by  Angelo  Pid:  the  painting  of  St. 
John  the  Evangelist  over  the  altar 
is  by  Giuseppe  Marchesi,  The  roof, 
painted  in  1656,  is  an  able  work 
of  Michel  Angelo  Colonna  and  Agostino 
Mitelli.  In  the  vestibule  leading  to 
the  pizza  on  the  N.  is  the  tomb  of 
Alessandro  Tartagni,  of  Imola  (ob. 
1477),  a  celebrated  jurisconsult,  by  the 
Florentine  sculptor  Francesco  di  Si- 
mone; and  opposite  one  of  the  Volta 
family,  with  a  statue  of  S.  Proculus,  by 
Lazzaro  Casari.  22nd  chapel,  or  2nd 
on  1.,  St.  Raimondo.  crossing  the  sea  on 
his  mantle,  is  by  Lqd.  Caracci,  23rd, 
or  first  on  1.  This  chapel  contains  a 
bust  of  S.  Filippo  Neri,  from  a  cast 
taken  after  his  death. 

The  Cloisters  of  the  adjoining  con- 
vent of  San  Domenico  are  extensive:  the 
outer  one,  supposed  to  be  that  erected 
in  1231  by  Niccolo  da  Pisa,  contains 
some  inscriptions  and  ancient  tombs, 
among  which  are  to  be  noticed  those 
of  Gio.  d'Andrea  Calderini,  the  work 
of  Jacopo  Lanfi-ani,  in  1238;  and  of 
Bartolommeo  Salicetti,  a  Professor, 
by  Andrea  da  Fiesole,  in  1412.  There 
is  preserved  here  a  portion  of  a  paint- 
ing by  Lippo  di  DatmasiOf  representing 
the  Magdalen  at  the  feet  of  Christ, 
which  Malvasia  describes  as  his  earliest 
work ;  the  head  of  the  Magdalen  is 
destroyed.  Beyond  this,  in  the  same 
corridor,  is  Christ  holding  a  Crucifix, 
with  S.  Lorenzo  presenting  a  Domi- 
nican friar  kneeling ;  it  bears  the  in- 
scription Petrus  Joanis  (Pietro  di 
Giovanni  Lianori  ?),  and  is  of  the 
14th  century.  On  leaving  the  convent, 
under  the  portico  built  by  Niccola 
Barella,  leading  up  the  Via  di  S.  Do- 
menico, on  the  1.  hand,  is  a  picture  of 
the  Virgin  and  Child,  with  St.  John, 
by  Bagnacavallo. 

In  the  Piazza  surrounding  the 
Church  of  San  Domenico  are  some 
interesting  objects.     The  bronze  statue 


506 


EoiUe  61. — Bologna — Churches^ 


Sect.  VII. 


of  S.  Dominick,  standing  on  a  red 
brick  column,  was  cast  at  Milan  in 
1623;  the  Madonna  del  Rosario,  on  a 
marble  one,  is  by  Giulio  Cesare  Con- 
venti ;  and  two  sepulchral  monuments, 
one,  in  the  centre  of  the  square,  the 
tomb  of  the  learned  jurist  Rolandino 
Passaggeri,  Corretaro  of  the  corpora- 
tion of  Notaries,  who,  while  holding 
the  office  of  town-clerk,  was  selected 
to  write  the  reply  of  the  Republic  to 
the  haughty  letter  of  the  Emperor 
Frederick  II.,  demanding  the  release 
of  his  son  King  Hensius ;  the  other 
of  a  member  of  the  family  of  Fqsche- 
rari,  and  was  raised  by  Egidio  Fosche- 
rari  in  1289.  The  early  Christian 
bas-reliefs  forming  one  of  the  arches 
of  the  canopy  are  more  ancient,  and 
not  unlike  some  of  those  of  the  8th 
centy.  which  we  shall  see  at  Ravenna. 
Both  tombs  stand  under  canopies  sup- 
ported by  columns. 

Ch,  of  S.  Francesco,  behind  the 
Post  office,  one  of  the  grand  speci- 
imens  of  Italian  -  Gothic,  and  one 
of  the  most  extensive  of  the  eccle- 
siastical edifices  of  Bologna,  was  de« 
secrated  in  1798,  and  converted  into 
the  Dogana  or  custom-house;  the  in- 
terior consists  of  a  grand  elevated 
nave  and  aisles,  with  7  pointed  arches, 
on  each  side  Supported  by  8-8ided 
columns,  all  in  brick.  It  has  been 
restored  of  late  years  to  its  primitive 
destination,  and  the  walls  painted  in 
gaudy  colours  with  execrable  taste ; 
the  transepts  have  been  restored  in 
the  most  modern  style  of  classical 
architecture  •  -  a  sad  eyesore  in  an 
edifice  of  such  a  pure  kind  of  Italian 
Gothic  ;  the  many  interesting  sepul- 
chral monuments  it  contained  —  the 
churches  of  St.  Francis  throughout 
Italy  being  favourite  burying-places 
— have  been  destroyed,  or  transferred 
to  the  Campo  Santo.  The  principal 
object  worth  notice  in  the  restored 
edifice  is  the  jnarble  decoration  or  screen 
over  the  high  altar,  a  fine  work  of  the 
14th  century  by  Giacohello  tLudPietro 
dalle  Massegne,  and  for  which  they 
received,  in  1388, 2150  golden  ducats,  a 
very  large  sum  for  the  period  (1388). 
The  bas-reliefs  on  it  represent  the  Co- 


ronation of  the  Virgin,  in  the  centre, 
with  figures  of  saints  on  either  side. 
Amongst  other  celebrated  individuals 
buried  here  was  Pope  Alexander  V. 
(1410).    His  monument  has  been  re- 
moved to  the  Campo  Santo.     In  the 
adjoining  portico,  under  which   is  the 
entrance  to  the  Post-office,  are  frescoes 
relating  to  the  life  of  S.  Antonio  di  Pa- 
dova,  by  Tiarini,  Tamburini,  Gessi,  &c. 
The  mutilated  Sarcophagus  near  the 
outer  door  of  the  Convent  bears  the 
inscription  of  the  celebrated  Glossator 
Accursius.     The  Bell  Tower,  of  the 
13th  century,  is  one  of  the  finest  in 
Bologna. 

The  Ch,  of  S,  Giacotno  Ma^giore, 
in  the  Strada  di  S.  Donato,  belongins^  to 
the  Augustine  hermits,  was  founded  in 
1267,  enlarged  in  1497,  but  never  com- 
pleted.    Some  of  its  existing  details, 
however,  are  interesting,  as  illustrations 
of  early  Italian  Gothic.     The  doorway 
has  a  canopy  in  which  the  shafts  sup- 
porting it  rest  on  lions.    On  each  side 
are  (2)  arched  recesses  for  tombs.     An 
ugly  square  window  has  replaced  an 
elegant  wheel    one ;   whilst  the    two 
handsome    pointed    ones,    which    ad- 
mitted light  into  the  nave,  have  been 
barbarouslv  walled   up.     The    beau- 
tiful   portico    adjoining,    and    which 
forms  one  side  of  the  Via  di  S.  Donato, 
was  erected  in   1477  by  Gioyanni   di 
Bentivoglio.     The    immense    vaulted 
roof  of  the  ch.,  divided  into  3  portions 
by  cross  arches,  has  been  much  admired 
for  the  boldness  of  its  execution.    The 
painting  in  the  different  chapels  which 
open  directly  from  the  central  nave 
are  the  chief   objects   of  attraction. 
In  the  1st  chapel  on  rt.,  the  small 
fresco  of  the  Virgin,  "  della  Cintura,"  is 
covered  up  by  a  more  modem  one  of 
Cherubim.   4th.  The  fall  of  St.  Paul,  by 
ErcoleProcaccini.  5th .Christ  appearing 
to  Gio.  da  S.  Facondo,  by  Cavedom, 
who  also  painted  the  gradmo  beneath. 
6th.  The  Virgin  throned,  surrounded 
by  John  the  Baptist,  St.  Stephen,  St, 
Augustin,  St.  Anthony,   and  St.  Ni- 
cholas; a  fine  work,  by  Bartolommeo 
Passerotti,  much  praised  by  the  Ca- 
racci.     7th.  St.  Alexis  bestowing  alms 
on  the  poor,   and  the  (3)  frescoes  of 
the  arch,  by  Prospetv  .Fontana, .  8th. 


HOMAGNA. 


Houte  61. — Bologna — Churches^ 


i07 


The    Marriage   of  St.  Catherine,   by 
Imiocenzo  da  Imola,  Justly  called  an 
"opera  Raffaelesca,"  for  it  is  almost 
"Worthy  of  that  great  master,   except 
as  regards  the  colouring :  this  is  really 
a    magnificent    picture.      The    small 
Nativity,  on  the  gradino  imdemeath,  is 
another  beautiful  work  by  the  same 
painter.     10th.   St.  Roch  struck  with 
the  plague,  and  comforted  by  an  angel, 
by  Zoaovico    Caracci:    the   glory   of 
angels  above,   and   the  saints  by  the 
side,  are  by  Francesco  Brizzi.     11th. 
The   four  Doctors  of  the   Church  are 
by    Lorenzo    Sahbatini;     the    Angel 
Michael,  over  the  altar,  by  his  scholar 
Catvart.     Its  merit  was  so  much  ap- 
preciated by   Agostino    Caracci,   that 
he  engraved  it.     12th.  The  chapel  of 
the  Poggi  family,  designed  by  Pelle- 
grino  'fibaldi.    The  altarpiece,  repre- 
senting thfe  Baptism  of  our  Lord,  was 
finished  by  Prospero  Fontana,  by  desire 
of  Tibaldi.    The  compartments  of  the 
roof  are  also  fine  works  of  Fontana. 
The  grand  picture  of  St.  John  baptizing, 
and  that  on  the  side  wall  in  illustra- 
tion   of  **  Many  are  called,  but  few 
are  chosen,"  are  by  Pellegrino  Tibaldi ; 
they  are  characterised  by  great  power 
of  composition  and  expression,  and  are 
said   to  have  been  much  studied  by 
the   Caracci  and  their  school.      13th. 
The  Virgin,  with  St.  Catherine  and 
St.    Lucia,    and    the    Beato    Rinieri 
below,    is  by    Calvaert.    14th.     The 
Virgin  and  Child  in  the  air,  with  SS. 
Cosimo  and  Damiano  and  S.  Catherine 
below,  and  the  portrait  of  one  of  the 
Calcina  family,  patrons  of  this  chapel, 
are  by  Lavinia  Fontana.     15th,  said  to 
contain  a  fragment  of  the  true  cross. 
Over  the  altar  of  this  chapel  is  a  large 
Aiicona,  in  several  compartments,  of 
the    Coronation   of  the  Virgin   with 
Saints,  which  is  worthy  of  observation 
as  bearing  the  name  of  Jacopo  Avanzi, 
on  -which,  in  the  group  of  St.  Martin 
dividing  his  raiment  with  a  poor  man, 
the  head  of  the  horse  is  well  drawn 
for  the  period.    The  Crucifix  on  ;the 
side  wall  bears    that  of  Simone  (da 
Bologna),  with  the  date  1370.     18th. 
The  celebrated  chapel,  opening  behind, 
the  choir,  of  the  Bentivoglio   family, 
the  ancient  lords  of  Bologna,  is,  on 


many  accounts,  the  most  interesting 
in  this   ch.    The  Virgin  and  Child, 
with  4  angels  and  4  saints,  over  the 
altar,  is  one  of  the  most  celebrated 
works  of  Francesco  Francia,  "painter 
to     Giovanni     II.,     a     Bentivoglio." 
The  Ecce  Homo  in  the  lunette  above 
is  also  attributed  to  this  master.     In 
another  lunette,  one  of  the  visions,  the 
Apocalypse,   in  fresco,  is  by  Lorenzo 
Costa,   retouched  by    Felice  Cignani, 
who  painted  the  2  figures  of  the  An- 
nunciation.   The  oil  painting,  on  the 
rt.  side  wall  of  the  altar,  of  the  Virgin 
throned,  with  Gio.  II.,  Bentivoglio,  and 
his  numerous  family  in  adoration,  inte- 
resting as  a  study  of  costume  and  cha- 
racter, is  by  Lorenzo  Costa,  Francia's 
able  scholar  (1488).  The  2  curious  ones 
opposite,representing  triumphs,  are  also 
by  Costa :  one  is  a  procession  of  Death 
drawn  on  a  car  by  2  buflFaloes,  and 
the   other,  a  female  figure,  by  black 
elephants;    the    numerous  figures    in 
these  processions   are  interesting  for 
the  costumes  of  the  period.    The  alto- 
relievo  of  Annibale  Bentivoglio,  Lord 
of  Bologna,  in  the  chapel  {ob.  1458), 
on  horseback,  is  by  Nicold  dalV  Area. 
The  expressive  head  in  relief  of  Gio- 
vanni II.,  on  one  of  the  pilasters,  is 
said  to  have  been  sculptured  by  Fran- 
cesco Francia.     Outside  the  Bentivo- 
glio chapel  is  the  fine  monument  of 
Antonio  Bentivoglio,  who  perished  on 
the  scaffold  in  1435,  the  father  of  An- 
nibale I.;   it  was  executed  by  Jacopo 
delta  Querela :  the  other  tomb  near  it 
and  behind  the  choir,  is    of  Nicolo 
Fava,  an  eminent  medical  professor 
of    the    15th    century.      19th.    The 
Christ  in  the  Garden,  and  in  the  20th 
chapel  the  St.   Peter,   St.   Paul,  and 
King  Sigismund,  are  by  Ercole  Pro^ 
caccini.   2 1  st.  The  Virgin,  -with  S.  John 
the  Baptist,  S.  Francis,  and  S.  Benedict, 
by  Cesi,  one  of  his  most  pleasing  works. 
23rd.   The  Martyrdom  of  St.  Cathe- 
rine,   by    Tiburzio    Fasserotti,      25th, 
The  Presentation  in  the  Temple  is  the 
masterpiece bf  Orazio  Samacchini;  it  was 
engraved  by  Agostino  Caracci.     The 
figures  of  2  Saints  on  the  side  walls 
are  also  by  Samacchini.     29th.  The 
monument  to  Cardinal  Agucchi,  over 
the  side  door  of  the  ch.,  with    the 


508 


Moute  6 1 . — Bologna —  Churdies, 


Sect.  VII. 


statues  and  bas-reliefs,  is  by  Gabriele 
Fiorini,  from  a  design,  it  is  said,  of 
Domenichiuo.  32nd.  The  Last  Supper 
is  supposed  to  be  a  repetition  of  the 
celebrated  picture  by  BarocciOy  in  the 
Ch.  di  S.  M.  sopra  Minerva,  at  Kome, 
by  the  painter  himself.  The  frescoes 
of  Melchisedek  and  Elijah  on  the  side 
walls,  and  the  Angels  of  the  ceiling, 
are  good  works  of  Cavedone,  In  the 
34  th  chapel  is  a  miraculous  crucifix  in 
wood,  the  history  of  which  can  be 
traced  as  far  back  as  the  year  980. 
Behind  and  communicatiDg  with  the 
convent  is  the  chapel  of  Santa  Cecilia 
(described  at  p.  502) ;  it  is  entered 
through  the  convent,  and  will  be 
opened  by  the  Sacristano  of  the 
church.  Rossini,  the  celebrated  com- 
poser, having  been  educated  in  the 
annexed  Augustinian  convent  —  con- 
verted into  the  Liceo  Filarmonico,  or 
great  Music  School  of  Bologna— his 
name  has  been  given  to  the  Piazzetta 
in  front  of  the  church. 

T/w  Ch,  of  San  Giorgio,  built  by  the 
Servite  Fathers,  contains  a  few  interest- 
ing pictures.  In  the  4th  chapel,  S, 
Filippo  Benizio,  kneeling  before  the 
Virgin  and  Child  in  the  midst  of  An- 
gels, was  begun  by  Simone  de  Pesaro, 
and  finished  m  the  lower  part  by  Albani. 
The  St.  George,  at  the  high  altar,  is  by 
Camillo  Procaccini,  In  the  5th  chapel 
on  1.,  the  Annunciation  is  by  Lodovico 
Caraccif  and  the  graceful  paintings  un- 
derneath are  by  Camillo  Procaccini. 
4th.  The  Probatica  Piscina  in  this 
chapel  is  also  by  Lodovico  Caracci,  1st. 
The  Flight  out  of  Egypt,  by  Tiarini, 

The  Ch,  of  S.  Giovanni  in  Monte,  a 
fine  Gothic  edifice  with  a  groined  roof, 
so  called  from  its  being  on  a  slight 
rising,  the  highest  point  within  the 
walls  of  the  city,  one  of  the  most  an- 
cient in  Bologna,  founded  by  St.  Pe- 
tronius  in  433,  and  rebuilt  in  1221, 
was  restored  in  1824,  without  disturb- 
ing the  general  style  of  its  ancient 
architecture.  The  great  entrance 
dates  from  1527 ;  the  eagle  in  painted 
terracotta  over  it  is  by  Nicolb  dalf 
Area,  The  interior  consists  of  a  nave 
separated  from  the  aisles  by  four  wide 
round  arches  originally  j)ointed ;  the 
arches  of  the   tribune  and  transepts 


being  still  in  the  latter  style.  1st 
chapel  on  rt.  The  Saviour  appearing 
to  the  Magdalen,  by  Giacomo  PrancvA. 
2ud.  The  Crucifixion,  by  Cesi.  3rd. 
The  St.  Joseph  and  St.  Jerome,  in  the 
ovals  on  the  side  walls,  are  by  (?««■- 
cino.  6th.  A  small  oval  Madonna, 
almost  hidden  by  ex-voto  ofiferings, 
placed  below  Mazzoni's  picture  of  uie 
Liberation  of  St.  Peter,  is  by  Lippo  di 
Dalmasio.  7th.  The  Virgin  throned 
with  Saints  is  a  fine  work  of  Lorenzo 
Costa.  8th.  The  miraculous  figure  of 
the  Virgin  here,  originally  in  the  an- 
cient church  of  S.  Eutropio,  was 
formerly  celebrated  for  its  powers  in 
curing  the  sick :  it  is  of  high  antiquity. 
9  th.  The  S.  Ubaldo  is  a  good  work 
of  Gio,  Baitista  Bolognini.  The  pic- 
ture in  the  choir,  of  the  Virgin  with  the 
Almighty  and  the  Saviour  above,  and 
John  the  Evangelist,  St.  Augustin,  St. 
Victor,  and  other  saints  below,  is  by 
Lorenzo  Costa,  The  busts  of  the  Apos- 
tles over  the  stalls  are  by  Alfonso  Lorn- 
hardo^  and  the  2  Evangelists  by  Fro. 
Ubaldo  Farina ;  the  Tarsia  work  is 
by  Paolo  Sacca,  1525.  The  ancient 
Madonna,  on  a  pilaster,  to  the  1. 
of  the  high  altar,  a  fresco  detached 
from  some  suppressed  church,  is 
said  to  be  anterior  to  the  year  1000, 
but  it  has  lost  all  its  original  character. 
12th,  or  l.-hand  transept,  the  picture  of 
Sta.  Cecilia,  by  Raphael,  now  in  the 
Pinacoteca,  was  over  the  altar  in  this 
chapel  until  1796 ;  there  is  now  an  in- 
difierent  copy  in  its  place.  Beneath 
the  altar  is  buried  the  Beata  Elena 
Duglioli  dair  Olio,  at  whose  expense 
the  Sta.  Cecilia  was  painted.  6th  on  1. 
The  figure  of  the  Saviour,  carved  out  of 
a  single  block  of  a  fig-tree,  is  attributed 
to  Pietro  da  Pavia,  1430.  17th.  In  the 
2nd  chapel  on  the  1.,  the  St.  Francis 
kneeling,  adoring  a  crucifix,  is  a  power- 
ful and  expressive  work  by  Guercino. 
The  adjoimng  convent,  whose  cloisters 
were  designed  by  Terribilia  in  1 548,  has 
been  converted  into  a  prison.  On  the 
stairs  leading  from  the  ch.  to  the  Via  di 
S.  Stefano  are  several  tombstones  and 
inscriptions  formerly  on  the  floor  of 
its  nave  and  aisles. 

The    Ch.   of  St.  Gregorio,  near  the 
Cathedral,  almost  entirely  rebuilt  after 


ROMAGKA. 


Jioute  6 1 . — Bologna —  Churches. 


509 


the  earthquake  of  1779,  contains,  in  the 
6th  chapel,  one  of  the  early  oil  paintings 
of  Annibale  Caracci:  the  Baptism  of  the 
Saviour.  In  the  8th  chapel,  the  St. 
George  delivering  the  Queen  from  the 
Dragon,  with  the  Archangel  Michael 
above  pursuing  the  demons,  and  like- 
-wise  the  picture  of  God  the  Father,  are  by 
Z/odovico  Caracci,  The  picture  over  the 
high  altar,  representing  St.  Gregory's 
miracle  of  the  Corporale,  is  by  Calvaert, 
Albani  is  buried  in  this  ch. 

The.  Ch.  of  S.  Leonardo  contains, 
in  its  1st  chapel,  the  Annunciation,  by 
Tiarini,  in  which  the  Almighty,  hold- 
ing a  dove  as  the  symbol  of  the  Holy 
Spirit,  is  represented  as  awaiting  the 
answer  of  the  Virgin  to  the  announce- 
ment of  the  Angel.  The  altarpiece, 
the  Martyrdom  of  St.  Ursula,  and  the 
St.  Catherine  in  prison,  converting  Por- 
phyrins and  the  wife  of  Maximianus  to 
Christianity,  are  both  excellent  works 
by  Lodovico  Caracci, 

The  Ch.  of  Sta,  Lucia,  in  the  Strada 
Castiglione,  a  large  modernized  edifice 
with  a  very  bare  look,  is,  perhaps, 
more  remarkable  for  a  curious  lite- 
rary relic  preserved  there — a  long  letter 
written  by  St.  Francis  Xavier,  in  Por- 
tuguese, which  is  exposed  with  singular 
homage  on  the  festival  of  that  saint — 
than  for  its  works  of  art,  although  there 
are  several  pictures  which  deserve 
notice,  among  which  may  be  specified 
the  Sta.  Lucia  and  Sta.  Anna,  with  the 
Virgin  and  Child,  at  the  high  altar, 
by  Ercole  Procaccini;  the  Death  of  St. 
Francis  Xavier,  considered  the  best 
work  of  Carlo  Antonio  Rambaldi,  in  the 
6th  chapel ;  the  Virgin  and  Child,  with 
John  the  Baptist,  S.  Carlo,  and  Sta. 
Teresa,  by  Carlo  Cignani,  in  the  7th 
chapel ;  and  in  the  Sacristy,  the  Cruci- 
fixion by  Lamnia  Fontana  ;  and  the 
Conception,  one  of  the  first  works  of 
Calvart  while  yet  a  pupil  of  Sabbatini. 

The  Ch.  of  the  Madonna  del  Ba- 
raccano  was  so  called  from  a  Confra- 
teruitk,  established  in  1403,  in  honour 
of  the  miracles  performed  by  a  picture 
of  the  Virgin  painted  on  a  bastion  of 
the  city  walls,  called  "II  Baraccano 
di  Strada  Santo  Stefano."  Over  the 
portico,  constructed  from  the  designs 
of  Agostino  Barella,  is  a  statue  of  the  i 


[  Virgin  hy  Alfonso  Lombardo,  At  the  high 
altar  the  miraculous  picture  of  the  Vir- 
gin, Francesco  Cossa^  of  Ferrara,  re- 
painted it  in  1450,  with  the  addition  of 
2  portraits,  of  Gio.  I.  Bentivoglio,  and 
of  Maria  Vinciguerra.  The  frieze  of 
flowers  which  adorns  this  altar,  and 
other  sculptures  of  the  chapel,  are 
graceful  works  by  Proper zia  de*  Rossi. 
The  Virgin  and  Child,  with  SS.  Joseph 
and  Joachim,  in  the  4th  chapel,  is  by 
Lavinia  Fontana  ;  and  the  St.  Catherine, 
in  the  5th,  is  by  Prospero  Fontana, 

The  Madonna  di  S,  Colombano  is  re- 
markable for  being  covered  internally 
by  frescoes,  painted  by  various  pupils 
of  Lodovico  Caracci.  The  St.  Francis 
on  the  rt.  wall  is  by  Antonio,  son  of 
Agostino  Caracci ;  the  Virgin  and  Child, 
with  Joseph  gathering  dates,  is  by 
Spada ;  the  Sibyl  over  the  side  door, 
and  the  Coronation  of  St.  Catherine,  are 
hj  Lorenzo  Garbieri;  the  Sta.  Marta  con- 
versing with  the  Saviour,  before  whom 
the  Magdalen  is  kneeling,  is  by  Lucio 
Massari,  on  the  vault  above ;  by  whom 
are  also  the  Sibyl  over  the  other  door,and 
the  angel  bearing  the  palm  of  martyr* 
dom  to  Sta.  Ursula ;  the  infant  Saviour 
playing  with  St.  John  in  the  presence 
of  little  angels  is  bv  Paolo,  brother  of 
Lodovico  Caracci,'  who  gave  the  design^ 
In  the  upper  oratory,  the  frescoes  re- 
presenting the  Passion  were  all,  it  is 
said,  the  result  of  a  trial  of  skill  among 
the  younger  pupils  of  the  Caracci; 
among  them,  the  fine  picture  of  St. 
Peter  going  out  weeping  from  Pilate's 
house,  by  Albani,  may  be  particularly 
noticed.  The  Virgin,  over  the  altar  of 
this  ch.,  is  by  Lippo  Dalmasio. 

The  Ch.  of  the  Madonna  di  Galliera, 
near  the  Cathedral,  a  very  handsome 
ch.  inside,  contains  some  interesting 
paintings.  In  the  1st  chapel  (del  Cro- 
cifisso)  the  frescoes  on  the  ceiling,  repre- 
senting the  Death  of  Abel,  and  the  Sacri- 
fice of  Abraham,  are  the  last  works  of 
M.  Angelo  Colonna,  In  the  2nd,  the 
St.  Antony  of  Padua  is  by  Girolatno 
Donnini,  the  pupil  of  Cignani.  In 
the  3rd,  the  Virgin  and  Child,  with 
Joseph,  S.  Francesco  di  Sales,  and 
S.  Francesco  d'  Assisi,  is  by  Frances- 
chini,  who  painted  the  frescoes  of  this 
chapel.     The  Capella  Maggiore  con- 


610 


Moute  6 1 . — Bologna-^  Churches, 


Sect.  VII. 


tains  a  very  ancient  painting  of  the 
Virgin  and  Child,  generally  concealed 
from  view;  the  figures  of  the  angels 
round  this  painting  are  by  Giuseppe 
Mazza.  In  the  4th,  the  Incredulity 
of  St  Thomas  is  by  Teresa  MurcUori, 
celebrated  as  much  for  her  talent 
in  music  as  in  painting;  the  angels 
aboTe,  frequently  praised  for  their 
delicacy  and  grace,  are  said  to  have 
been  added  by  her  master,  Gio.  Giu- 
seppe dal  Sole.  The  2nd  chapel  on  1. 
contains  the  picture  of  the  infant  Chris 
between  the  Virgin  and  St.  Joseph, 
with  groups  of  angels  above,  a  lovely 
painting  by  Albani  ;  the  Adam  and 
Eve  in  oil,  the  Cherubim  and  the 
Virtues  in  fresco,  are  by  the  same 
master.  In  the  1st  is  S.  Filippo  Neri 
in  ecstacy,  surrounded  by  Angels,|by 
Guercino.  In  the  Sacristy,  St.  Philip,  the 
Beato  Ghislieri,  the  Conception,  and 
the  S.  Francesco  di  Sales,  are  by  JEHisa' 
betta  Sirani,  The  Celestial  Love,  and 
the  St.  Elizabeth  of  Hungary,  are 
by  G.  Andrea  Sirani.  The  Assump- 
tion is  by  Albani.  The  adjoining 
oratory,  built  from  the  designs  of 
Torregiani,  has  over  the  entrance 
door  a  fresco  of  an  Ecce  Homo  by 
Lodovico  Caracci. 

Sta,  Maria  Maddalena,  near  la  Porta 
Mascarella,  contains,  at  the  first  altar, 
a  Madonna,  S.  OnofHo,  and  S.  Vitale, 
by  T\burzio  Passerotti:  and  at  the 
3rd,  St.  Francis,  and  St.  James,  by  the 
same.  The  Virgin,  with  S.  Sebastian 
and  S.  Hoch,  is  by  Bagnacavallo,'  The 
oratory  contains  an  altarpiece  by  JBr- 
eole  Procaccini,  restored  by  Giovannini ; 
the  Archangel  Gabriel  and  the  Virgin 
by  Giuseppe  Crespi,  and  other  works 
by  his  two  sons. 

Sta.  Maria  Maggiore^  in  the  street 
1  eading  to  the  Porta  Galliera,  one  of  the 
ancient  churches  of  the  city,  contains 
some  good  works  by  Tiarini.  At  the 
1st  altar,  St.  John  the  Evangelist 
dictating  to  St.  Jerome  is  a  pleasing 
example  of  this  master.  The  3rd  altar 
has  a  very  ancient  wooden  crucifix. 
The  5th  has  a  Madonna  and  Child,  with 
St.  James  and  St.  Antony,  by  Orazio 
Samacchini.  The  7th  was  decorated  by 
Carlo  Francesco  Dotti.  The  5th  on  1. 
has  a  Virgin,  Child,    and  St.  John, 


painted  by  Franceschino  Caracci ;  the 
1st  on  1.  a  picture  of  the  Madonna  with 
2  saints  of  the  15th  centy.,  attributed  on 
very  doubtful  grounds  to  Carlo  Crivelli. 

The  Ch.  of  Sta.  Maria  della  Pieta, 
better  known  as  /  Mendicanti,  near 
the  Porta  di  San  Vitale,  which  the 
great  masters  of  the  Bolognese  school 
had  enriched  with  some  of  their  finest 
works,  was  stripped  of  its  most  valu- 
able treasures  at  the  first  invasion  by 
the  French ;  the  Madonna  della  Pie& 
by  Guido,  the  St.  Matthew  by  Lodovico 
Caracci,  the  S.  A16  and  S.  Petronius  of 
Cavedone,  are  in  the  Pinacoteca ;  and 
the  Job  of  Guido,  which  accompanied 
them  to  France,  has  never  been  restored. 
Among  the  most  interesting  paintings 
which  remain  are  the  following :  at  the 
1st  altar,  the  Sta.  Ursula,  by  Bartolom" 
meo  Passerotti.  3rd  on  I.,  Christ  feeding 
the  Multitude,  by  Lavinia  Fontana. 
4th,  the  Flight  out  of  Egypt,  with  a  fine 
landscape,  and  the  paintings  on  the 
side  walls, by  G.  A.  Donducci.  2nd,  the 
St.  Anna  adoring  the  Virgin  in  a  vision^ 
by  Bartolommeo  Cesi.  1st,  the  Cruci- 
fixion, with  the  Virgin,  St.  John,  and 
other  saints,  by  the  same  noaster. 

The  Ch.  of  Sta.  Maria  della  Vita,  in 
the  Via  Clavature,  near  the  Pepoli  Pa- 
lace, founded  in  1260,  by  the  Beato  Ri- 
niero  of  Perugia,  who  devoted  himself 
on  this  spot  to  the  relief  of  the  sick,  was 
entirely  remodelled  in  the  last  centy.  In 
the  2nd  chapel  are  preserved  the  bones 
of  the  Beato  Buonaparte  Ghisilierl* 
brought  here,  in  1718,  from  the  sup- 
pressed ch.  of  S.  Eligio.  The  picture 
representing  the  Beato  Buonaparte  and 
St.  Jerome  is  by  Aureliano  Milawi.  The 
3rd  chapel  contains  an  Annunciation, 
with  S.  Lorenzo  underneath,  painted 
by  Tamburini  from  a  design  of  Guido, 
who  is  said  to  have  retouched  it.  Over 
the  hiffh  altar  is  a  fresco  of  the  Virgin 
and  Child  by  Simone  da  Bologna;  the 
marble  ornaments  are  by  Angela  Ven^ 
turoli.  The  two  statues  by  the  side  are 
by  Petronio  Tadolini ;  and  those  in 
plaster  by  Giacomo  Rossi,  In  the  3rd 
chapel  on  1.  is  another  gift  of  Count 
Malvasia,  the  bust  of  S.  Carlo  Borromeo, 
the  head  of  which  is  in  silver.  In  the 
Sacristy  is  a  picture  of  S.  Eligio,  attri- 
buted to  Annibale  Caracci,  and  in  the 


ttoMAQKA.      Eoute  61. — BdogrM — Churches — San  Paolo. 


511 


oratory  is  the  masterpiece  of  Alfonso 
Ztombardoj  a  bas-relief  representing  the 
death  of  the  Virgin  in  the  presence 
of  the  apostles,  whose  heads  are  said 
to  have  inspired  many  painters  of  the 
Bolognese  school.  The  Beato  Eeniero 
healing  the  sick,  in  the  2nd  chapel  on  1., 
daring  theplagae,  \&hj  Cavedone,  whose 
history  is  scarcely  less  affecting  than 
that  of  Properzia  de*  Rossi.  Cavedone, 
at  the  death  of  his  son,  was  so  much 
oppressed  with  grief  that  he  lost  his 
talent,  and  with  it  his  employment :  his 
old  age  was  passed  in  beggary,  and, 
after  having  contributed  so  much  in 
early  life  to  the  decoration  of  the 
churches  and  palaces  of  his  native  city, 
he  was  allowed  to  die  in  a  stable. 

The  fine  ch.  ofS,  Martino  Maggiore,  in 
the  Piazza  S.  Martino  and  near  the  Via 
di  S.  Donato,  belonged  to  the  Carmelite 
Friars  from  the  14th  centy .  to  the  period 
of  the  French  invasion ;  it  has  five  fine 
wide  pointed  arches  on  either  side  of 
of  the  nave,  supported  on  short  stumpy 
Italo-Gothic  columns.  The  Adoration 
of  the  Magi,  in  the  1st  chapel,  is  one  of 
the  most  graceful  works  of  Girolamo  de* 
Carpi ;  the  Annunciation,  over  the  side 
door,  is  by  Bartolommeo  Passei^ottij  and 
the  alto-rilievo  of  S.  Martin  by  Man- 
zini,  1530.  In  the  4th  chapel  is  a  pic- 
ture of  St.  Joachim  and  St.  Anna,  with 
the  date  1558,  by  Giova/ini  Taraschi. 
In  the  5th  is  the  picture  of  the  Virgin 
and  Child,  with  a  sainted  bishop  on  one 
side,  and  Sta.  Lucia  on  the  other,  with 
St.  Nicholas  below,  giving  their  dowry 
to  3  young  girls,  by  Amico  Aspertini^ 
the  pupil  of  Francia,  called  "  dai  due 
pennelle,"  because  he  worked  with  both 
hands,  holding  at  the  same  time  a  brush 
for  light  and  another  for  dark  tints. 
The  7th  chapel  contains  the  only  work 
in  Bologna  by  Girolamo  Sicciolante,  the 
imitator  of  Raphael :  it  represents  the 
Virgin  and  Child,  with  St.  Martin, 
St.  Jerome,  &c.,  and  contains  a  por- 
trait of  Matteo  Malvezzi,  for  whom 
it  was  painted.  Near  the  door  of  the 
Sacristy  is  the  monument  and  bust  of  the 
eloquent  FUippo  Beroaldi  the  elder,  by 
Viruienzo  Onofrio.  Above  it  is  the  Ascen- 
sion, by  Cavedone,  In  the  Sth'chapel  is 
an  Assumption,  attributed  to  Ferugino. 
In  the  9th  is  the  grand  picture  of  St. 


Jerome  imploring  the  Divine  assistance 
in  the  explanation  of  the  ScriptureSi 
by  Lodovico  Caracci,  In  the  10th  is 
the  Crucifixion,  with  St.  Andrew,  and 
the  Beato  Pietro  Toma,  by  Cesi,  The 
1 1th  was  entirely  painted  by  Mawro  Tesi^ 
an  eminent  artist  of  the  last  centy.  In 
the  12th  chapel  is  the  Madonna  and 
Child,  with  several  saints,  by  F,  Fran- 
cia^ as  well  as  the  paintings  of  the 
Saviour  above,  and  bearing  the  Cross 
below.  The  St.  Roch  in  the  painted 
glass  of  the  window  over  the  altar  is 
by  the  Beato  Giacomo  da  Ulma.  The 
oratory,  formerly  the  conventual  li- 
brary, was  painted  by  Dentone;  the  Dis- 
pute of  St.  Cyril  is  by  Ludo  Massari, 
The  altarpiece,  representing  the  In- 
credulity of  St.  Thomas,  is  a  fine  work 
of  Giampietro  Zanotti,  painted  for  the 
suppressed  ch.  of  S.  Tommaso  del  Mer- 
cato.  In  the  cloister  are  several  sepul- 
chral monuments,  among  which  may 
be  particularly  noticed  those  of  2  Pro- 
fessors of  Law  of  the  Saliceti  family ; 
the  one  bearing  the  date  of  1403  has  in 
front  a  curious  bas-relief  of  a  Professor 
lecturing,  and  is  attributed  to  Andrea 
da  Fiesole ;  the  second,  of  a  certain  Pe- 
trus,  having  a  similar  bas-relief  with  6 
bearded  students,  is  of  1503. 

The  Ch.  of  S,  Paolo,  in  the  Via  di 
Aposa,behind  the  Piazza  Maggiore,built 
by  the  Bernabite  fathers  in  1611,  was 
restored  in  1819.  The  marble  statues 
of  St.  Peter  and  St  Paul  on  the  fa9ade 
are  by  Mirandola  and  Conventi,  At  the 
1st  altar,  the  Christ  in  the  Garden,  and 
the  Christ  bearing  the  Cross,  on  the 
side  walls,  are  by  Mastelletta.  At 
the  2nd  is  the  fine  painting  of  Para- 
dise, by  Lodovico  Caracci.  The  small 
Madonna  underneath  is  by  Lippo  di 
Dalmasio.  In  the  3rd  are  the  Nativity, 
and  the  Adoration  of  the  Magi,  hj 
Cavedone,  which  is  regarded  as  his 
masterpiece.  The  frescoes  on  the 
vault,  representing  the  Circumcision, 
the  Flight  out  of  Egypt,  and  the  Dis- 
pute with  the  Doctors,  are  by  the 
same  painter.  At  the  altar  in  the  rt« 
transept  is  the  Purgatory  by  Guer- 
cinOf  in  which  St.  Gregory  shows  to 
the  souls  the  Almighty,  the  Saviour, 
and  the  Virgin  in  the  heavens.  Above 
the  high  altar  the  2  statues  of  St.  Paul 


512 


Route  61. — Bologna — Churches — San  Petronto,     Sect.  VII. 


and  the  Executioner  are  by  Alessandro 
Algardi,  who  is  said  to  have  given 
Facchetti  the  design  of  the  Tribune, 
and  to  have  sculptured  the  ivory  Cruci- 
lix  on  it:  the  tabernaclein  jasper  is  in  the 
form  of  a  basilica.  At  the  drd  on  1.,  the 
S.  Carlo  Borromeo  carrying  the  cross 
through  Milan  during  the  plague,  and 
the  other  pictures  of  the  same  saint  on 
the  side  walls,  are  by  Lorenzo  Garhieri. 
At  the  2nd,  the  Communion  of  St.  Je- 
rome, and  the  other  paintings  of  this 
chapel,  are  by  Massari,  At  the  1st, 
the  Baptism  of  the  Saviour,  and  the 
Birth  and  Burial  of  St.  John  the  Bap- 
tist, are  by  Gavedone. 

The  Ch.f  or  Basilica^  of  San  Petronio, 
the  largest  in  Bologna,  and,  though  un- 
finished, one  of  the  most  interesting  and 
remarkable,  is  a  fine  monument  of  the 
religious  munificence  which  charac- 
terised the  period  of  Italian  fiteedom. 
It  was  founded  in  1390,  while  Bologna 
was  a  free  city,  the  architect  bemg 
Antonio  Vincenzi,  celebrated  as  one  of 
the  16  Riforpiatori,  and  as  the  ambas- 
sador of  the  Bolognese  to  the  Venetian 
Kepublic  in  1396.  The  original  plan  was 
a  Latin  cross,  and,  if  the  building  had 
been  completed,  it  would  have  been  750 
Eng.  ft. long,  or  136  more  than  St.  Peter's 
at  Rome.  The  portion  we  now  see 
consists  merely  of  what  was  intended 
for  the  nave  and  aisles,  as  may  be  seen 
on  the  outside,  where  the  construction 
of  the  transept  had  been  just  com- 
menced when  the  work  was  abandoned. 
Of  the  exterior,  the  lower  portion  of 
its  front  alone  is  finished,  and  of  the 
interior  little  more  than  the  nave  has 
been  completed.  In  spite  of  these  defi- 
ciencies, San  Petronio  is  one  of  the 
finest  specimens  of  the  Italian  Pointed 
style  of  the  14th  century.  The  3  cano- 
pied doorways  of  the  unfinished  fa9ade 
are  pure,  and  amongst  the  finest  ex- 
amples of  the  Italian  Gothic;  they 
are  covered  with  bas-reliefs  represent- 
ing various  events  of  Scripture  his- 
tory from  the  Creation  to  the  time  of 
the  apostles,  and  are  ornamented  with 
busts  of  prophets  and  sibyls  which  recall 
the  taste  and  designs  of  Raphael.  The 
central  doorway  and  its  bas-reliefs  were 
justly  considered  the  masterpiece  of 
Jacopo  dalla  Quercia,  and  were  entirely 


executed  by  him.  They  must  be  care- 
fully studied  to  appreciate  their  details ; 
there  are  32  half  figures  of  patriarchs 
and  prophets,  with  the  Almighty  in  the 
centre  of  the  arch ;  5  subjects  from  the 
New  Testament  in  the  architrave,  and 
5  from  the  Old  Testament,  from  the 
Creation  to  the  Deluge,  on  each  pilaster. 
Under  the  arch  are  statues  of  the 
Virgin  and  Child,  St.  Petronius,  and 
St.  Ambrose.  It  is  recorded  that  the 
artist  was  commissioned  to  execute  this 
door  for  the  sum  of  3600  golden  florins, 
the  Reverenda  Fabbrica  providing  the 
stone  (grey  limestone) ;  Vasari  says  that 
he  devoted  1 2  years  to  the  work,  and  that 
its  completion  filled  the  Bolognese  with 
astonishment.  The  l.-hand  doorway, 
supposing  the  spectator  looking  from 
the  Piazza,  is  remarkable  for  the  angels 
and  sibyls  round  the  arch,  by  Tribolo, 
well  known  as  the  friend  of  Benvenuto 
Cellini,  who  has  left  an  amusing  re- 
cord of  him  in  his  most  entertaining 
biography.  Of  the  4  subjects  on 
the  1.  pilaster,  the  1st,  3rd,  and 
4th  are  by  Tribolo,  as  well  as  the 
4th  on  the  rt.  pilaster,  supposing  the 
spectator  to  be  looking  at  the  door. 
Tribolo  was  assisted  in  these  works 
by  Seccadenarv  Properzia  de*  Rossi, 
the  Bolognese  Sappho;  and  by  Cioli 
and  Solosmeo,  pupils  of  Sansovino. 
The  3  other  subjects  on  the  rt.  pilaster 
are  by  Alfonso  Lombardo,  and  repre- 
sent different  events  of  the  Old  Testa- 
ment. The  second  subject  of  the  1. 
pilaster,  representing  Jacob  giving  his 
blessing  to  Isaac,  is  by  an  unknown 
artist.  Under  the  arch  is  the  superb 
sculpture  of  the  Resurrection,  the 
Saviour  rising  between  the  sleeping 
soldiers,  by  Alfonso  Lombardo,  praised 
by  Vasari,  and  admirable  for  its  simple 
dignity  and  truth.  77ie  rt.-hand  door- 
way is  another  monument  of  the  taste 
and  purity  of  Tribolo.  The  angels 
of  the  arch,  the  sibyls,  and  the  8 
subjects  fi*om  the  Old  Testament  on 
the  pilasters,  are  by  this  master. 
Under  the  arch  is  the  group  of 
Nicodemus  supporting  the  dead  body 
of  Christ,  by  Amico  ;  the  Virgin,  on 
one  side;  is  by  Tribolo;  and  the  St, 
John  the  Evangelist,  by  Ercole  Sec- 
cadenari,  on  the  other. 


RoMAGNA.      Eoute  61. — Bologna — Churches — San  Petronio, 


813 


The  interior  of  San  Petronio  is  par- 
ticularly imposing,  and  never  fails  to 
excite  regret  that  it  has  not  been  com- 
pleted on  its  original  extensive  plan. 
Some  fault  might  be  found  with  the 
proportion  of  the  edifice  ;  but  the  size 
and  peculiar  simplicity  of  the  design 
produce  an  effect  which  reminds  the 
English  traveller  of  the  purer  Gothic 
of  the  north.  "  It  possesses  in  a  high 
degree  the  various  peculiarities  which 
characterise  the  arrangements  of  the 
Italian  Gothic,  such  as  the  wide  and 
low  pier  arches  whose  span  equals  the 
breadth  of  the  nave,  the  absence  of  the 
triforium  and  of  the  clerestory  string, 
the  great  empty  circles  which  occupy 
the  space  of  the  clerestory,  the  exten- 
sive doming  of  the  vaults,  the  shallow- 
ness of  the  side  aisles,  the  heavy  capi- 
tals which  surround  the  piers  and  half 
piers  like  a  band  of  leaves,  and  the 
squareness  of  the  piers  with  their  nook 
shafts ;  all  these  serve  to  make  a  wide 
distinction  between  this  example  and 
those  of  the  genuine  Gothic ;  and  they 
are  rarely ,  found  so  completely  united 
even  in  Italian  churches.  Each  com- 
partment of  the  side  aisle  has  two  arches, 
which  open  into  shallow  chapels." — 
Willis. 

On  entering  the  ch.,  the  ornaments 
in  relief  round  the  great  doorway  are 
by  Francesco  and  Petronio  Tadolini. 
Over  the  pilasters  of  the  side  doors 
are  two  circular  groups  in  relief,  one  by 
P.  Lombardo,  representing  the  Annun- 
ciation, the  other  Adam  and  Eve  in 
Paradise,  generally  attributed  to  Tri- 
bolo.  In  the  chapels  on  the  rt.  there 
are  several  objects  to  engage  attention. 
The  2nd,  dedicated  to  St.  Bridget,  is  the 
chapel  of  the  Pepolis,  so  celebrated  in 
the  history  of  Bologna;  and  some  of 
the  pictures  contain  portraits,  it  is  said, 
of  members  of  that  illustrious  family. 
The  painting  of  the  Assumption  has 
been  attributed  to  Guido;  but  it  was 
more  probably  only  retouched  by  him. 
Those  on  the  side  walls,  painted  between 
141 7  and  1431,  are  curious ;  the  figure 
praying  on  the  1.  beai-s  the  inscription, 
Sofia  de  Inghilterafefa;  evidently  re- 
presenting the  Donatoria,  or  the  person 
at  whose  expense  the  work  was  exe- 
cuted;  that  opposite  was  painted  by 


Luca    and   Francesco  da  Perugia,   in 
1417,  and  represents  the  Virgin,  Child, 
and  Saints,  with  portrait  of  the  Dona- 
torio  Bartolommeo  da  Milano,  a  mer- 
chant.    Beyond  the  3rd  chapel  is  a 
monument,  by  Pacchioni,  raised  by  the 
municipal  authorities  to  the  memory 
of  Cardinal  Opizzoni,  more  than  50 
years  Archbishop  of  Bologna,  who,  after 
charities  most  liberal  during  his  life- 
time, left  all  he  possessed  to  his  adopted 
city  for  charitable  purposes.    The  fine 
painted  glass  in  the  4th  chapel  is  by 
the  Beato  Giac,   da  Ulma,    6th — St. 
Jerome,    by   Lorenzo    Costa,    spoiled 
by  retouching.     8th,  belonging  to  the 
Malvezzi    Campeggi    families.       The 
marble  ornaments  on  the  screen  of  this 
chapel  were  designed  by  Vignola,  and 
are  said  to  have  cost  him  the  loss  of 
his  situation  as  architect  to  the  ch. 
through    the   jealousy    of  his    rival 
Ranuccio.      The    St.    Francis    is    by 
Mastelletta  ;    and    the    St.    Antony 
raising  the  dead  man  to  liberate  the 
father,  who  is  unjustly  condemned,  is 
by    JLorenzo    Pasinelli :    the    tarsia- 
work,  with  some  good  arabasque  orna- 
ornaments  in  wood    carving,  on   the 
sides  was  formerly  in  the  choir  of  the 
ch.  of  San   Michele    in   Bosco,    and 
was   executed    by    Fra   Raffaele  da 
Brescia.     9th — Chapel  of  St.  Antony 
of  Padua.     The  marble  statue  of  the 
Saint  over  the  altar  is  by  Sansovino, 
His    miracles    painted    on    the   walls 
in    chiaro-scuro  are   fine   works    by 
Girolamo  da  Treviso.     The  beautiful 
windows  of  painted  glass  are  celebrated 
as  having  been  made   from  the  de- 
signs of  Michel  Angela  ;  they  contain 
8  figures  of  Saints,  and  S.  Antony  in  a 
lunette  above.  10th — the  large  painting 
of  the  Coronation  of  the  Madonna  del 
Borgo  S.  Pietro  on  the  side  wall,  and 
the  frescoes  in  chiaro-scuro  opposite  it, 
are  by  Francesco  Brizzi,  a  favourite 
pupil  of  the  Caracci :   he  commenced 
life  as  a  journeyman  shoemaker,  and 
became    the    principal     assistant     of 
Lodovico.      11th — The    bas-relief   of 
the    Assumption,    by    Tribolo,    stood 
formerly  at  the  high  altar  in  the  ch.  of 
La  Madonna  di  Galliera.     The  angels 
over  the  altar  are  by  Properzia  de* 
Bossi,    The  walls  of  this  chapel  sup- 


614  Moute  61.-^Boiogna^^Churches — San  Fetronio,     Sect-  VII. 


port  the  entire  weight  of  the  Campa- 
nile.   On  each  side  of  the  high  altar 
the  two  marble  statues  of  St.  Francis 
and  St.   Dominick  are  by    Girolamo 
Campagna ;    the  large  picture  in  the 
choir  by  Franceschini.    Crossing  to  the 
1.  aisle — 10th  chapel,  reckoning  from 
the  great  entrance  to  the  ch.  (1.)    The 
Sta.  Barbara,  oyer  the  altar,  is  consi- 
dered the  best  work  of  Ticarini,    9th— 
the  Archangel   Michael,  by   Calvaert 
(Fiammingo),  which  may  in  some  degree 
explain  the  celebrated  picture  by  his 
pupil  Gnido  in  the  ch.  of  the  Capu- 
chins at  Rome ;  this  chapel  has  a  hand- 
some iron  railing  of  the  15th  century, 
erected  by  Antonio  Barbaca  and  his 
wife  Margarita  Pepoli.  8th — St.  Roch, 
a  portrait  of  Fabrizio  da  Milano,  by 
Parmegianino.    7th — the  Chapel  of  the 
Baciocchi  family,  contains  the  Tombs 
of  the  Princess  Eliza   Baciocchi,  the 
sister  of  Napoleon,  of  her  husband, 
on  the  rt.,  and  opposite  of  3  of  her 
children,    with  a  good  altarpiece  by 
Costa,  of  the  Madonna  and  Samts ;  and 
a  fine  painted  glass  window.     6th — the 
Annunciation,  in  two    portions,  upon 
the  wall  in  front,  and  the  12  Apostles 
on  the  side  ones^  are  among  the  finest 
works  of  Costa;  over  the   altar   the 
martyrdom  of  St.  Sebastian  is  in  his 
earlier  manner.     The  Magdalen  at  the 
feet  of  Jesus,  by    F,   Brizzi,      The 
Tarsia-work    beneath    was    executed 
in  1495,  by  Agostino  da  Crema.    The 
pavement    of    enamelled    tiles    dates 
from   the   earliest  times  of  this  kind 
of  manufacture,  1487.    On  the  pilaster 
between  this  and  the  next  chapel  is 
a  statue  in   wood    of   S.   Petronius, 
believed  to  be  the  most  ancient  like- 
ness of  that  saint  extant,  but  it  has 
been   so  altered  by  frequent  restora- 
tions that  little  probably  of  the  original 
countenance  now  remains.    4th  chapel 
— the  paintings  of  the  Magi,  and  of 
the  Paradiso  and  Inferno  here,   for- 
merly attributed  to  Giotto,  and  sub- 
sequently by  Vasari  to   Bufialmacco, 
are  now  generally  considered  to  have 
been  painted  by  Simone  da  Bologna, 
or  by  Giovanni  da  Modena,  very  early 
in  the  15th  centy.     In  the  2nd  chapel, 
rebuilt  by  Torregiani  at  the  expense 
of  Cardinal  Aldrovandi,  whose  tomb 


is  placed  in  it,  is  preserved  the  head 
of  S.  Petronius,  removed  by  order  of 
Benedict  XIV.  from  the  ch.  of  S.  Ste- 
fano.  This  chapel  was  gaudily  re- 
stored in  1743,  when  the  head  was 
brought  to  it,  and  is  also  that  in  which 
Divine  service  was  first  performed  in 
1392.  Some  very  ancient  frescoes  of 
the  Crucifixion  and  Adoration  of  the 
Magi  have  been  lately  discovered  on 
the  walls  of  the  chapel  next  to  this  and 
to  the  entrance  to  the  church.  On  each 
side  of  the  aisle  are  several  mediseval 
crosses,  said  to  have  been  placed  at  the 
several  gates  of  the  city  by  St.  Petro- 
nius :  one  bears  the  date  of  1159. 

On    the   floor    of   S.    Petronio    is 
traced    the    celebrated  meridian    line 
of  Gian  Domenico  Cassini,  220  £ng. 
ft.  -long:   it  was  substituted  in  1653 
for  that  of  P.  Ignazio  Danti.     It  was 
in  the  ch,  of  S.  Petronio  that  the  Em- 
peror Charles  V.  was  crowned  by  Cle- 
ment VII.  on  24th  Feb.  1530.      The 
halls  of  the  Residenza  delta  FaJbbrica, 
adjoining,  contain  a  highly  interesting 
series  of  original  designs  for  the  stiU 
unfinished  facade,  by  the  first  architects 
of  the  period.     3  of  these  are  by  Pal- 
ladio ;  another  bears  the  following  in- 
scription in  his  own  hand,  *'  Laudo  il 
presente  disegno,"  and  has,  no  doubt 
erroneously,  been  attributed   to    him. 
There  are  2  by  Vignola ;  1  by  Giaeomo 
Ranuccio,  his  great  rival;  1   by  Do- 
menico   Tibaldi  ;    3    by     Baldassare 
Peruzzi;    1   by    Giulio    Romano   and 
Cristoforo  Lombardo;  1  by  Girolamo 
Rainaldi ;  1  by  Francesco  Terribilia, 
which  received  the  approbation  of  the 
senate  in  1580,  and  was  published  by 
Cicognara  in  his  History  of  Sculpture ; 
1   by  Varignano ;   1    by  Giaeomo   di 
An(&ea  da  Formigine;  1   by  Alberto 
Alberti,  of  Borgo  San  Sepolcro ;    and 
3    by    unknown    artists.      Over    the 
entrance  door  is  the  marble  bust  of  Count 
Guido  Pepoli,  by  Properzia  de*  Hossi, 
supposed  to  be  that  ordered  by  his  son 
Alessandro,  to  prove  the  powers  of  that 
extraordinary   woman,    as    mentioned 
by  Vasari.    In  the  2nd  chamber  is  her 
masterpiece,  the  bas-relief  of  Joseph 
and  the  wife  of  Potiphar,  believed  to 
allude  to  the  history  of  her  own  mis- 
fortunes.   The  life  of  that  celebrated 


BOMAGNA. 


Houte  61. — Bdogna — Churches* 


616 


and  adcomplislied  woman,  at  once  a 
painter,  sculptor,  engraver,  and  musi- 
cian, is  one  of  the  most  tragical 
episodes  in  the  annals  of  art ;  '*  Final- 
mente/'  says  Vasari,  in  a  passage  which 
will  hardly  bear  translating,  "alia  ppvera 
inamorata  giovane  ogni  cosa  riusci  per^ 
fettissioEiamente,  eccetto  il  suo  infelicis- 
simo  amore."  She  died  of  love  at 
the  very  moment  when  Clement  VII., 
after  performing  the  coronation  of 
Charles  V.  in  this  church,  where  he 
had  seen  and  appreciated  her  genius, 
expressed  his  desire  to  take  her  with 
him  to  Kome.  Vasari  records  the 
touching  answer  given  to  his  Holiness : 
Sta  in  chiesttf  e  gli  si  fa  ilfunerale  ! 

The  Sacristy  contains  a  series  of  22 
pictures,  representing  various  events  in 

I  the  history  of  S.  Petronius  from  his  bap- 
tism to  his  death,  by  Ferrari,  Francesco 
Colonna,  Mazzoni,  and  others.  The 
inside  of  the  ch.  of  San  Petronio  has 
undergone  a  thorough  repair,  during 
which  some  early  frescoes  of  the  14th 
century  were  discovered  under  the 
whitewash  on  the  4  first  columns  of 
th«>  nave,  they  have  been  since  re- 
moved. 

Over  the  great  door  of  this  ch.  stood 
the  celebrated  colossal  bronze  statue 
of  Julius    II.   executed    by    Michel 

'  Angelo  after  their  reconciliation  on  the 
subject  of  the  Moses.  The  pope  was 
represented  with  the  keys  of  St.  Pe- 
ter and  a  sword  in  his  1.  hand,  and  in 
the  act  of  blessing  or  reprimanding  the 

[  Bolognese  with  his  rt.  But  this  great 
masterpiece  existed  for  only  3  years.  In 
1611,  on  the  return  of  the  Bentivoglio 
party  to  power,  it  was  destroyed  by 
the  people,  and  the  bronze,  said  to 
have  weighed   17,500  lbs.,  was   sold 

,      to  the  Duke  of  Ferrara,   who    con- 

•  verted  it  into  a  piece  of  ordnance, 
under  the  appropriate  name  of  the 
Julian,  It  is  recorded  of  this  statue, 
the  loss  of  which  will  ever  be  deplored 
by  the  lovers  of  art,  that,  when  Michel 
A  ngelo  asked  the  warlike  pontiff  whether 
he  should  put  a  book  in  his  left  hand,  he 
replied,  "  A  book !  no :  let  me  grasp  a 

I     sword ;  I  know  nothing  of  letters." 

The  Ch,  of  S.  FrocoJo  in  the  Via 
di  S.  Mamolo,  belonged  before  the 
French  occupation  to  the  Benedictine 


monks  of  Monte  Cassino ;  its  founda* 
tion  is  of  very  ancient  date,  but 
the  present  one  was  built  in  1536. 
Over  the  principal  entrance  is  a  Vir- 
gin and  Child  with  S.  Sixtus  and  S. 
Benedict,  a  good  example  by  Lippo 
di  Dalmasio,  painted  in  oil,  and  therefore 
adduced  by  Malvasia  and  Tiarini  as  a 
proof  of  the  much  higher  antiquity  of 
oil-painting  than  Vasari  had  supposed. 
Beneath  the  organ  is  the  Almighty 
surrounded  by  a  glory  of  Angels  over 
the  Magi,  in  relief,  copied  by  Cesi  from 
a  design  of  Baldassare  Peruzzi,  for- 
merly in  the  Bentivoglio  palace.  In 
the  2nd  chapel  on  rt.,  the  St.  Benedict  in 
ecstasy  is  also  by  Cesi,  who  is  buried 
in  this  ch.  In  the  4th  on  1.,  the  Virgin 
in  glory,  with  St,  Benedict  below, 
is  one  of  the  last  works  of  Ercole 
Graziani  the  younger.  In  the  2nd 
chapel,  designed  by  Torreggiani,  is  the 
marble  urn  over  the  altar  in  which  are 
preserved  the  bodies  of  the  2  martyrs 
who  gave  their  names  to  this  ch. — S. 
Proculus,  a  soldier,  andS.  Proculus,  a  bi- 
shop, found  in  the  ancient  subterranean 
ch.  in  1390.  In  the  1st  chapel  on  1.,  the 
S.  Maurus  is  by  Ercole  Graziani.  On  a 
wall  near  the  door  of  the  ch.  the  follow- 
ing inscription  to  the  memory  of  a  person 
called  Procolo,  buried  in  the  ch.,  who 
was  killed  by  one  of  the  bells  falling  on 
him  as  he  was  passing  under  the  campa- 
nile, was  much  admired  in  the  last  cen- 
tury,  when  this  kind  of  play  upon  words 
was  more  in  fashion  than  it  is  now : — 

"  SI  prociil  a  Proculo  Procull  campana  fuiaset, 
Nunc  procul  a  Proculo  Proculua  ipse  foret." 

A.D.  1393. 

The  Ch.  of  S.  Eocco,  near  the  Porta 
Isaia,  converted  in  1801  into  a  "  Camera 
Mortuaria,"  where  the  dead  are  depo- 
sited before  being  carried  to  the  Campo 
Santo,  is  remarkable  for  one  of  those 
agreeable  examples  of  generous  and 
patriotic  rivalry  for  which  the  school 
of  Bologna  was  particularly  distin- 
guished. The  oratory  is  covered  with 
the  frescoes  of  the  young  artists  of  the 
period,  who,  for  no  greater  sum  than 
two  pistoles  each,  adorned  its  walls  with 
paintings  illustmting  the  life  of  S.  Roch, 
and  other  suitable  subjects.  Their  zeal- 
ous emulation  has  been  justly  described 


616  JRoiUe  61. — Bologna — Churches — S*  M.  de^  Servi.    Sect.  VII. 


a^  a  "  tournament  of  painting."  They 
represent  events  in  the  life  of  the  saint, 
and  of  the  patron  saints  of  Bologna. 

The  Ch,  of  the  Santissinw  Salva- 
tore,  in  the  street  leading  from  the 
Piazza  S.  Francesco  to  the  P.  Mag- 
giore,  has  some  interesting  paintings. 
In  the  1st  chapel  is  the  Beato  A.  Canetoli 
refusing  the  Archbishopric  of  Florence, 
by  Ercole  Graziani.  In  the  2nd  is  a  Re- 
surrection, by  Mastelletta,  In  the  4th, 
the  Adoration  of  the  Magi,  by  Prospero 
Fontana.  The  Miracle  of  the  Crucifix 
bears  the  inscription,  *^Jacobi  Coppi, 
civis  Florentini,  opus,  1579,"  and  is 
mentioned  by  Lanzi  as  one  of  the  best 
pictures  in  Bologna  prior  to  the  time  of 
the  Caracci.  A  picture  of  the  Virgin 
and  St.  Thomas,  by  Girolamo  da  Treviso, 
formerly  at  the  altar  "  de*  Scolari  In- 
glesi "  in  the  old  ch.  The  Judith  going 
to  meet  the  Hebrew  Damsels  with  the 
Head  of  Holofernes  is  by  MastelleUa. 
The  Virgin  holding  the  Infant  Saviour 
to  St.  Catherine,  with  St.  Sebastian  and 
St.  Roch,  is  a  fine  work  of  Girolamo  de* 
Carpi.  The  finely-presented  painting 
of  the  Virgin  crowned,  underneath  this 
picture,  is  of  the  14th  century.  In  the 
choir,  the  Saviour  bearing  his  cross 
was  designed  by  Guido,  who  painted  the 
head,  and  retouched  the  whole  picture, 
after  it  was  finished  by  Gessi.  Of  the 
4  Prophets,  the  David  is  by  Cavedone. 
The  subjects  illustrating  the  miraculous 
crucifix  are  by  Brizzi,  and  the  St. 
Jerome  is  by  Carlo  Bonone.  In  the  6th 
chapel  is  a  striking  Nativity  by  Tiarini; 
in  the  7th,  a  fine  Crucifixion  surrounded 
by  Saints,  by  Innocenzo  da  Imola ;  in 
the  8th,  the  Ascension,  by  Carlo  Bonone  ; 
in  the  9th,  St.  John  kneeling  before  the 
aged  Zacharias,  by  Garofalo.  The  4 
doctors  of  the  Church,  painted  over 
the  4  small  chapels,  are  by  Cavedone. 
The  large  picture  over  the  door,  re- 
presenting the  Marriage  of  Cana,  is  by 
Gctetano  Gandolfi,  a  modern  painter  of 
Bologna.  In  the  Sacristy,  the  frescoes 
of  the  roof  are  by  Cavedone ;  and  in 
an  adjoining  room  the  S.  Dominick  is 
attributed  to  Guercino ;  and  the  St. 
John  the  Baptist,  with  the  Lamb,  to 
Simone  Cantarini;  the  Madonna  is  by 
MastelleUa,  Guercino  was  buried  in 
this  ch.,  but  without  any  inscription  or 


monument.     There  are  several   inte- 
resting MSS.  regarding  the  history  of   I 
Bologna  in  the  Library  of  the  adjoin- 
ing Convent. 

The  Ch.  of  the  Servi,  or  8ta,  Maria 
de*  Servi,  in  the  Via  Maggiore.  F<M:ming 
a  square  in  front,  and  flanking  it  to- 
wards the  street,  is  the  grand  Portico 
de*  Servi,  built  upon  marble  columns, 
in  1392,  by  Fra  Andrea  Manfred!  of 
Faenza,  General  of  the  Servites,  which 
has  a  series  of  frescoes  in  the  lunettes, 
illustrating  various  events  in  the  life  of 
S.  Filippo  Benizzi.  Of  these  20  sub- 
jects, the  principal  are  by  Cignani  Gio- 
vanni Viani,  Peruzzini,  Givsej^e  Mitelli^ 
Lorenzo  Borgonzoni,  &c.  The  interior 
is  a  good  specimen  of  the  Italian  Gothic 
of  the  15thcenty.,  and  has  an  imposing 
appearance.  The  nave  is  separated 
from  the  side  aisles  by  good  pointied 
arches,  supported  alternately  on  circu- 
lar and  eight-sided  columns,  over  each 
of  which  is  a  round  window,  bnt  all 
the  painted  glass  which  once  filled 
them  has  disappeared,  and  the  aisles 
are  prolonged  round  the  choir,  having 
numerous  chapels.  It  contains  some  fine 
paintings.  In  the  2nd  chapel  on  the  rt., 
the  Virgin  giving  the  conventual  dress 
to  the  7  founders  of  the  order  is  one  of 
the  last  works  of  Franceschini,  painted 
by  him  when  nearly  85  years  of 
age.  4th,  the  Death  of  Sta.  Giuliana 
Falconieri  is  by  Ercole  Graziani,  5th, 
the  Paradise,  a  large  and  elaborate 
work,  by  Calvaert.  7th,  the  Madonna 
di  Mondovi,  with  angels  and  saints, 
John  the  Baptist,  S.  James,  and  S. 
Francesco  di  Paolo,  by  Tiarini,  8th, 
the  Virgin  appearing  to  S.  Filippo 
Benizzi.  In  the  10th  chapel  is  pre- 
served a  marble  pitcher,  not  seen,  said  to 
have  been  used  at  the  marriage  of  Cana, 
presented  by  Fra  Vitale  Baccilieri,  Ge- 
neral of  the  Servites,  who  had  been  am- 
bassador to  the  Sultan  of  Egypt  in  1350. 
The  monument  of  Lodovico  Leoui, 
over  the  door  of  the  Sacristy,  is  by  Gia- 
como  Banuccio.  In  the  12th  chapel,  the 
miracle  of  S.  Gregory  at  mass  is  by 
Aretusi  and  Fiorini.  In  the  14th,  the 
Virgin  and  Child  painted  on  the  wall, 
and  2  saints  by  the  side,  are  by  Lippo  di 
Dalmasio ;  opposite,  the  Beato  Gioac* 
chino  Piccolomiui  fainting  during  the 


RoMAaNA.     Route  61.^^Bologna — Churches — San  Stefano. 


617 


celebration  of  mass  is  by  Ercole  Ora- 
ziani ;  the  small  Madonna  above  it  is 
aiLcrther  work    of  Dalmasio.    15th,  St. 
Joachim  and  St.  Anna,  by  Tiarini,    On 
tlie  opposite  wall  is  a  painting  of  the 
Virgin  enthroned,  of  the  14th  centy. 
On  the  back  wall  of  the  choir  is  the 
slab-tomb  of  Fra  Andrea  Manfredi  of 
Faenza,  the  eminent  architect  and  gene- 
ral of  the  order,  by  whom  the  ch.  was 
founded  (ob.  1396).     16th,  S.  Onofrio, 
by  Calvaert,     In  the  9th  chapel  on  1., 
the  fresco  representing   S.  Carlo  was 
painted  by  Guido,  gratuitously,  in  one 
day.     7th,  the  Annunciation,   a  very 
beautiful  work  by  Innocenzo  da  Imola. 
The  frescoes  of  the  roof  and  side  walls 
are  by  Bagnacavallo.    24th,  or  5th  onl., 
the  St.  Andrew   kneeling  before  the 
Cross  prepared  for  liis  martyrdom,  a 
fine  picture  by  Alhani.    The  monument 
of  the  Cardinal  Ulisse  Gozzadini  in  this 
chapel  has  a  portrait  of  that  prelate  in 
Koman  mosaic.     3rd  on  1.,  the  Noli- 
me-tangere  is  another  fine  work  of  Al- 
hani, The  large  painting  of  the  Nativity 
of  the  Virgin,  with  numerous  figures 
on  the  wall  over  the  principal  entrance, 
was  the  last  work  of  Tiarini, 

San  Stefano,  the  most  ancient  ec- 
clesiastical edifice  in  Bologna,  and 
one  of  the  oldest  in  Italy,  is  quite  a 
labyrinth,  formed  by  the  union  of  7 
churches.  Entering  from  the  piazza 
by  the  large  portal  is  what  is  called 
the  church  of  the  Crodjisso,  from  a 
painting  of  the  Crucifixion  over  the 
high  altar.  This,  as  well  as  another 
of  our  Saviour  bearing  the  Cross,  is 
probably  of  the  15th  cent.  In  the 
second  chapel  is  a  painting  by  Teresa 
Muratori  and  her  master  Giuseppe  Dal 
Sole,  representing  a  father  supplicating 
St.  Benedict  to  intercede  for  his  dying 
son.  Descending  some  steps,  on  the  1. 
is  the  Banzi  Chapel,  in  which  a 
Homan  marble  sarcophagus  behind 
the  altar  contains  the  body  of  the 
Beata  Giuliana  de'  Banzi.  This  is 
called  the  second  church.  The  third, 
del  Santo  Sepolcro,  is  a  circular  build- 
ing, supposed  to  have  been  the  ancient 
Lombard  Baptistery.  The  marble  co- 
lumns are  said  to  have  been  derived 
from  a  neighbouring  temple  of  Isis. 
The  marble  urn  beneath  the  altar, 
N.  /^a/y— 1866. 


with  its  ancient  symbols,  was  erected 
to  receive  the  body  of  S.  Petronius, 
who  is  said  to  ha^ve -imparted  mira- 
culous qualities  to  the  water  of  the 
well.  The  paintings  which  covered 
the  walls  of  its  circular  aisle  have 
entirely  disappeared  under  a  series 
of  modern  daubs.  •  There  is  a  very 
ancient  rude  Ambo  behind  the  altar, 
with  sculptures  of  the  emblems  of 
the  Evangelists.  The  fourth  churchy 
dedicated  to  SS.  Peter  and  Paul,  is 
supposed  to  have  been  the  primitive 
Cathedral,  founded  by  S.  Faustinianus, 
A.D.  330.  It  contains,  in  a  chapel  on 
rt.  of  the  high  altar,  a  painted  Crucifix, 
by  Simone  da  Bologna,  known  also  as 
Simone  dai  Crocifissi,  from  the  excel- 
lence with  which  he  treated  such  sub- 
jects ;  it  bears  his  name,  "Symon  fecit 
hoc  opus."  There  is  an  Ionic  capital 
in  this  ch.,  apparently  antique.  The 
painting  of  the  Madonna  and  Child, 
with  St.  Nicholas,  and  St.  John,  is 
by  Sahhatini,  That  of  St.  James,  St. 
John,  and  St.  Francis  is  referred  to 
Lippo  di  Dalmasio.  This  ch.  has 
some  general  resemblance  to  our  old 
Norman  buildings,  from  its  massive 
piers  and  coupled  columns,  on  some  of 
which  early  frescoes  of  saints  have 
been  lately  discovered  under  the  white- 
wash. The  fifth  church  is  formed  out 
of  the  small  forecourt  called  the  Atrio 
di  Pilato.  In  the  centre  of  it  is  a 
medisBval  font,  called  of  Liutprand, 
which  once  stood  in  the  centre  of  the 
Lombard  Baptistery.  In  this  court 
are  two  marble  sarcophagi,  appropriated 
in  former  times  by  the  Orsi  and  Bertuc- 
cini  families;  one  of  them  at  least 
is  an  ancient  Christian  urn,  and  is 
an  interesting  relic.  Opening  out  of 
it  is  a  chapel  with  a  good  painting  of 
St.  Jerome  adoring  the  Saviour  on  the 
Cross,  by  Giacomo  Francia,  and  the 
hall  of  the  Compagnia  dei  Lomhardi, 
which  was  erected  by  Benedict  XIV. ; 
the  keys  of  the  gates  of  Imola,  cap- 
tured by  the  Bolognese  in  1322,  are 
preserved  here.  From  the  Atrio  di  Pi- 
lato opens  the  chapel  of  the  Santissima 
Trinita,  also  in  a  LombardoGothic 
style,  from  which  we  enter  an  enclosed 
lower  corridor  of  a  cloister  called  the 
Ch.  of  the  Madonna  della  Consola- 

2  B 


518 


Eotde  61. — Bologna —Piazza  Maggiore.         Sect.  Vn. 


zione  from  a  miraculous  working 
image  of  the  Virgin  placed  in  it.  On 
the  walls  of  thi^  civ  have  been  placed 
several    paintings    of    saints    of   the 

14th   century,  some  good,  but  which 
stood  in  other  parts   of  S.  Stefano. 
From  this  enclosed  corridor  we  de- 
scend into  the  7th,  or  of  the  Confessione, 
a  kind  of  crypt,  remarkable  only  for 
its  ancient  columns  with  bas-reliefs, 
and    as    containing  the   bodies  of  2 
natiye    saints    and    martyrs,    Vitalis 
and  Agricola.     The  Madonna  in  the 
wall    is    said    to   have    been    placed 
here,  in  488,  by  S.  Giocondo,  bishop 
of   the    diocese.       One    of   the    pil- 
lars professes  to  represent  the  exact 
height  of  our  Saviour.     Last  of  all  is  a 
small   handsome    cloister,   the    upper 
gallery  supported    by  twin    columns 
forming  round    arches^  some  of  the 
capitals  formed  by  whimsical  figures  of 
men    and    animals.      T^ear    the    exit 
from  here  the  church,   called  la  SS- 
Trinitk,  also  contains  some  interest, 
ing  works  of  ancient  art,    a   few  of 
which  are  regarded  as  contemporane- 
ous with  S.  Petronius.     The  St.  Mar- 
tin, bishop,  praying  for   the  restora- 
tion of  a  dead  child  talife,  is  by  Tiarini, 
a  repetition  of  the  same  subject  paint- 
ed for  the    ch.  of  S.  Rocco.     The  S. 
Ursula,  on  a  pillar,  is  by  Simone  da 
Bologna;  and  the  Holy  Trinity  is  by 
Samacchini.  S.  Stefano  is  celebrated  for 
its  relics,  among  which  are  the  bodies 
of  40  martyrs,  brought  by  S.  Petro- 
nius from  Jerusalem.     In  the   chapel 
of  the  Relics  is  a  curious  reliquiary, 
with  enamels,  by  Jacopo  Rossetti,  1380. 
On  the  outer  wall  of  S.  Stefano  oppo- 
site  the  Via  di  Gerusalemme  is  an 
inscription  recording  the  existence  of 
a  Temple  of  Isis,  already  mentioned 
as  occupying  this  site. 

The  Ch.  of  the  SS.  Tnnitd,  in  the 
Strada  S.  Stefano,  not  far  from  the  gate, 
has,  at  the  2nd  altar,  the  Birth  of  the 
Virgin,  by  Lamnia  Fontana,  At  the 
high  altar  is  the  S.  Roch  supplicating 
the  Virgin,  by  Guercino.  At  the  7th 
altar  is  the  Madonna  in  glory,  with  SS. 
Jerome,  Francis,  Doninus,  and  Apol- 
lonia,  and  some  children  playing  with 
the  cardinal's  hat,  by  Gio,  Battista  Gen- 
nari,  of  Cento. 


The  very  ancient  ch.  of  8S,  Vitale  ed 
Agricola,  giving  its  name  to  the  street 
leading  to  wards  Ravenna,  consecrated  in 
428  by  St.  Petronius  and  St.  Ambrose, 
preserves  nothing  of  its  ancient  archi- 
tecture.    In  the  1st   chapel  on  1.  a 
graceful  painting  of  F.  Francia,  cover- 
ing the  ancient  image  of  the  Madonna, 
and  on  each  side  of  it  2  fine  frescoes, 
one  representing  the  Nativity,  by  his 
son  Giacomo,  and  the  other  the  Visita- 
tion of  Mary  and  Elizabeth,  with  por- 
traits of  the  Donatorii,  by  Bagnacavallo, 
Opposite  is   an  inscription    recording 
the  consecration  of  the  ch. :  the  colomn, 
with  a  cross  of  the  early  Christians^ 
brought  here  in  1832,  formerly  stood 
on  the  spot  in   the   adjoining    street 
where  S.  Vitalis  and  S.  Agricola  suf- 
fered martyrdom.     The  2nd  chapel  on 
rt.  has  a  picture  by  Tiarini,  the  Virgin 
dismounting  from  the  ass  during  the 
flight  from  Egypt. 

Opposite  to  the  Ch.  of  S.  Vitale  is 
the  Fantuzzi  Palace,  now  the  property 
of  a  retired  opera  singer ;  at  each  ex- 
tremity is  the  armoine  parlante  of  the 
first  owners,  an  elephant  with  a  castle 
on  his  back. 


The  Piazza  Maggiore,  now  di  Vit- 
tore  Emanuele,  was  the  Forum  of 
Bologna  in  the  middle  ages :  it  is  still 
surrounded  by  remarkable  fedifices  rich 
in  historical  associations,  the  relics  of 
the  once  formidable  republic.  It  was 
considered  by  Evelyn,  in  his  time,  as 
the  most  stately  piazza  in  Italy,  with 
the  single  exception  of  that  of  San 
Marco  at  Venice.  The  ch.  of  San  Pe- 
tronio  has  been  already  described ;  the 
other  buildings  which  give  an  interest 
to  this  square  are  the  Palazzo  Pubblico, 
the  Palazzo  del  Podestk,  and  the  Portico 
de'  Banchi.  In  the  Piazza  della  Fon- 
tana, opening  out  of  the  Corso,  the  at- 
tention of  the  traveller  is  arrested  by 
the  magnificent 

Fontana  Pvhblica,  or  Fontana  di 
Nettuno,  constructed  in  1564,  while 
Cardinal  (afterwards  S.  Carlo)  Borro- 
meo  was  legate :  the  general  design  is 
by  Lauretti  ;  the  pedestal  and  the  basin 
are  by  Antonio  Lupi  ;  and  the  Neptune, 
with  the  other  figures  and  bronze  orna- 
ments, are  by  Giovanni  di  Bologna,    The 


HOMAGNA. 


Houte  61. — Bologna — Palaces, 


519 


Neptane,  one  of  the  most  celebrated 
-works  of  that  great  sculptor,  is  8  ft. 
high,  and  the  weight  of  the  bronze  em- 
ployed in  the  figures  is  said  to  be  20,012 
Bolognese  pounds.  The  cost  of  the 
fountain,  with  its  pipes  and  aqueducts, 
amounted  to  70,000  golden  scudi.  The 
merits  of  the  Neptune  have  been  very 
differently  estimated  by  different  critics. 
Forsyth  says  he  "  saw  nothing  so  grand 
in  sculpture"  at  Bologna:  *' the  Nep- 
tune is  admired  for  the  style,  anatomy, 
and  technical  details :  his  air  and  ex- 
pression are  truly  noble,  powerful, 
commanding — perhaps  too  command- 
ing fbr  his  situation.''  John  Bell,  on 
the  other  hand  (an  authority  on  such 
a  subject),  says,  "  Neptune,  who  pre- 
sides over  the  fountain,  is  a  colossal 
heavy  figure,  in  the  act  of  preaching 
and  wondering  at,  rather  than  com- 
manding, the  waves  of  the  ocean ;  boys 
in  the  4  comers  are  represented  as 
having  bathed  small  dolphins,  which 
:they  are  holding  by  the  tail  to  make 
them  spout  water ;  while  4  female  Tri- 
tons fill  the  space  beneath;  these  fold 
their  marine  extremities  between  their 
limbs,  and  press  their  bosom  with  their 
hands,  to  cause  the  water  to  flow.  The 
whole  composition  and  manner  is  quaint, 
somewhat  in  the  French  style,  and  such 
as  I  should  have  been  less  surprised 
to  find  at  Versailles  than  at  Bologna.'* 
The  Palazzo  Fubblico^  or  del  Goveimo, 
-.begun  at  the  end  of  the  13th  century, 
is  one  of  the  great  public  monuments 
of  the  city.  Prior  to  1848  it  was  the 
residence  of  the  Legate  and  of  the 
Senator,  as  it  is  now  of  the  Civil  Go- 
vernor. Its  fa9ade  still  exhibits  some 
traces  of  the  Pointed  style  in  its  eight 
walled-up  windows,  but  the  building 
has  been  so  altered  at  various  periods, 
that  little  uniformity  remains.  In  the 
upper  part  of  the  fa<jade,  under  a  canopy, 
is  a  Madonna  in  high  relief,  by  Nicolb 
delC  Area,  in  terracotta,  once  gilt.  The 
ornaments  of  the  clock  are  by  TadoUni, 
The  entrance  gateway  is  by  Galeazzo 
Alessi  (1570) :  the  bronze  statue  of  Gre- 
gory XIII.  (a  native  of  Bologna),  m  the 
niche  over  the  gateway,  was  erect^id  at 
the  cost  of  his  fellow-citizens;  it  is  by 
Alessandro  Menganti,  called  by  Agostiim 
Caracci  the  "  unknown  Michael  Angelo.'* 


After  the  revolution  of  1796,  in  order 
to  save  the  statue  by  converting  it  into 
that  of  the  patron  saint  of  the  Bo- 
lognese,  the  tiara  was  changed  for  a 
mitre,  and  a  huge  pastoral  staff  placed 
in  the  right  hand,  with  Jthe  inscrip- 
tion "  Divus  Petronius  Protector  et 
Pater."  The  pastoral  staff  is  quite  out 
of  proportion  with  the  dimensions  of 
the  statue.  On  entering  the  building 
is  the  great  court,  handsomely  re- 
stored, and  beyond  in  the  3rd  court, 
formerly  a  garden,  we  find  the  beautiful 
cistern  constructed  by  Terrihilia,  at 
the  cost  of  6000  scudi. 

A  grand  staircase  a  cordoni  of 
53  steps,  by  Bramante,  leads  us  to 
the  upper  halls.  The  bronze  bust 
of  Benedict  XIV.,  and  the  ornaments 
over  the  door  where  it  is  placed,  are  by 
Giobattista  Bolognini.  The  great  Saloon 
of  Hercules  takes  its  name  from  his 
colossal  statue  by  Alfonso  Lombardo, 
On  the  rt.  is  a  halt  covered  with 
frescoes,  the  architectural  portions  of 
which  are  by  Antonio  Bibiena ;  the 
figures  on  the  ceiling  are  by  Angelo 
Bigari,  and  those  on  the  walls  by  Sea- 
rahelli.  In  the  adjoining  chapel  is  a 
fresco  of  the  Virgin,  called  the  Ma- 
donna del  Terremoto,  supposed  to  have 
been  painted  by  the  school  of  Francia 
in  1505.  The  gallery  leading  out  of 
the  Hall  of  Hercules  is  covered  with 
frescoes  illustrating  the  glories  of  Bo- 
logna by  Colonna  and  Fizzoli.  The  Sala 
Farnese,  so  called  from  a  bronze  statue 
of  Paul  111.,  is  perhaps  the  most 
magnificent.  Its  roof  and  walls  are 
covered  with  paintings  representing 
the  history  of  the  city,  by  Cignani, 
Francesco  Quaini,  Scaramuccia,  Pasi- 
nelli,  the  elder  Bibiena,  and  other  emi- 
nent artists. 

The  Palazzo  del  Podesta  was  begun 
in  1201,  the  facade  added  in  1485  by 
Bartolommeo  Fioravanti :  although  stitl 
an  unfinished  building,  it  has  an  air  of 
grandeur  which  accords  with  its  cha- 
racter as  the  ancient  seat  of  municipal 
authority  :  the  front  consists  of  a  por- 
tico of  9  square-headed  arches,  sur- 
mounted by  a  gallery,  and  by  a  second 
row  of  arches  which  are  separated  by 
highly  decorated  Ionic  pilasters.  Its 
greatest   interest,  however,  is  derived 

2B  2 


520 


Bottte  Gl.^^Bohgna — Palaces. 


Sect.  VII, 


firom  its  having  been   the  prison  of 
Hensius,  King  of  Sardinia,  and  natural 
son  of  the   Emp.   Frederick  II.,  cap- 
tured by  the  Bolognese  at  the  battle 
of  Fossalta  in   1249,  and    kept   here 
a  prisoner  until  his   death  in   1272. 
The  history  of  this  unfortunate  prince 
whose    monument   we    have    already 
noticed  in  the  account  of  the  ch.  of  S. 
Domenico,  ofifers  a  singular  illustration 
of  the  manners  of  the  middle  ages.  The 
haughty  republic  rejected  all  the  ovei> 
tures  of  the  emperor  for  the  restitution 
of  his  son,  and  his  threats  and  treasures 
were  of  no  avail  in  the  attempt  to  obtain 
his  liberty.    During  his  long  imprison- 
ment the  prince  employed  his  time  in 
poetical    compositions,  some  of  which 
are  marked  by  considerable  taste.    The 
young  king  moreover  was  beloved  in 
nis  captivity  by  a  fair  damsel  of  Bologna, 
Lucia  Vendagoli,   who   succeeded    in 
visiting  him  under  various  disguises ; 
and  the  Bentivoglio  family  is  believed 
to  derive  its  origin  from  these  mys- 
terious meetings.     The  great  hall  is 
still  called  Sala  del  Be  Enzio,  although 
there  is  no  proof  that  it   was  occu- 
pied by  him;  its  size,  170  feet  by  74, 
would  almost  seem  conclusive  against 
such  a  belief.    This  hall  has  likewise 
had  its  vicissitudes:   in  1410  the  con- 
clave  for   the  election  of  Pope  John 
XXIII.  was  held   here;    in  the   last 
century  it  was  converted  into  a  thea- 
tre ;    it  was  afterwards  used  for  the 
game  of  pallone;  and  was  latterly  de- 
graded into  a  workshop.      In    other 
parts  of  the  building  are  the  Archives 
of  the  Notaries  and  other  public  offices. 
The  former  are  rich  in  rare  and  inedited 
materials  for  the  history  of  Bologna, 
and  indeed  of  Italy  daring  the  middle 
ages;  among  them  is  pointed  out  the 
Bull  called  *  Dello  Spirito  Santo,*  pub- 
lished at  Florence,  July  6,    1439,  by 
Eugenius  IV.,  for  the    union  of  the 
Greek  and  Latin  Churches.     The  lofty 
tower,  called  Torrazzo  delV  Aringo,  rises 
upon  arcades,  is  a  massive  and  imposing 
pile:  it  was  erected  in  1264,  for  the 
purpose,  it  is  said,  of  watching  Hensius. 
The  statues  in  terra-cotta  of  the  4  Saints 
protectors  of  the  city,  on  brackets  upon 
the  pilasters  which  support  its  arcades, 
are  by  Afonso  Lombardo,    The  name  of 


their  new  sovereign  Vittorio  Emanuele 
has  been  given  by  the  Bolognese  to  the 
market-place  or  Piazza  Maggiorehetween. 
this  palace  and  the  ch.  of  S.  Petronic. 

The  Portico  de'  Banchi,  occapying 
one  side  of  the  Piazza,  and  continaed 
for  the  whole  length  of  the  ch.  of  S. 
Petronio  under  the  name  of  P.  del 
Pavaglione,  forming  a  continuous  ar- 
cade 300  ft.  in  length,  was  designed  and 
executed  by  Vignola^  who  had  to  adapt 
it  to  the  irregularities  of  an  older  build- 
ing. Here  are  some  of  the  most  showy 
shops.  These  porticos  are  the  Palais 
Royal  of  Bologna.  Opening  out  of  it  is 
the  building  called  //  Begistro,  formerly 
the  College  of  Notaries,  presented  to 
that  body  in  1283  by  the  learned  juris- 
consult and  chief  magistrate  Rolandino 
Passeggeri.  The  hall,  now  converted 
into  a  chapel,  has  a  Madonna  by  Pas- 
sarotti ;  the  Sacristy  contains,  among 
other  documents,  a  Diploma  of  the  Em- 
peror Frederick  II.,  confirmed  by  a 
Bull  of  Julius  II.,  granting  to  the 
Correttore  de'  Notari  the  power  of 
creating  apostolical  and  imperial  no- 
taries, and  the  singular  privilege  of 
legitimatizing  natural  children. 

Private  Palaces. — The  Palaces  of 
Bologna  are  numerous,  but  they  are 
with  few  exceptions  scarcely  deserv- 
ing of  a  visit ;  the  works  of  art  which 
formerly  gave  them  celebrity  are  gra- 
dually disappearing ;  so  that  it  would 
be  difficult  to  give  any  description  of 
their  moveable  contents.  Their  fres- 
coes, however,  like  their  architecture, 
cannot  be  exported;  and  in  both  these 
respects  there  is  much  to  engage  the 
attention  of  the  traveller.  They  gene- 
rally consist  of  a  portico  in  front,  open- 
ing by  a  handsome  portal  into  a  court 
of  3  sides,  the  4th  being  left  open  to 
admit  light  and  air ;  few  have  a  portico 
round  the  4  sides  of  the  inner  court, 
as  in  the  handsome  palaces  of  Eome, 
Florence,  and  other  large  towns  of  Italy. 
Palazzo  Alhergati  in  the  Strada  di  Sa- 
ragozza,  is  a  good  example  of  the  archi- 
tecture of  Baldassare  Pcruzzi  (1540). 
Under  this  palace  some  foundations  or 
Roman  baths  have  been  discovered. 

Palazzo  Aldrovandi,  now  Monianari^ 
in  the  Strada  di  Galliera,  was  almost 
entirely  rebuilt  in  1748,  by  Card.  Pom- 


EomagnA. 


ttout^  61, — Bologna — Palaces, 


621 


peo  Aldrovandi,  on  a  scale  of  grandeur 
vorthy  of  that  eminent  scholar.  The 
library  and  the  gallery  of  pictures  col- 
lected by  the  Cardinal,  and  augmented 
hj  his  successors,  have  been  nearly  all 
dispersed. 

Palazzo  Arcivescovile,  behind  the  Ca- 
thedral, the  residence  of  the  archbi- 
shop, was  built  in  1577  by  Tibaldi,  and 
has  been  recently  restored  and  deco- 
rated irith  considerable  taste  at  the  cost 
of  Cardinal  Oppizzoni,  Archbp.  of  Bo- 
logna. The  apartments  are  painted  by 
the  most  eminent  modem  artists  [of 
Bologna,  Professors  FruUi,  Pedrini, 
Fancelli,  Fantuzzi,  Zanotti,.&c. 

The  Palazzo  Bacciocchi^  now  Grahin- 
ski,  behind  the  Piazza  of  S.  Domenico, 
formerly  Rumi,  i^one  of  the  most  im- 
posing specimens  of  domestic  architec- 
ture in  Bologna :  its  principal  fa9ade  is 
by  Falladio,  by  whom  some  of  the  other 
details  were  probably  designed.  The 
grand  hall  is  ornamented  by  Bibiena, 

The  Palazzo  Bentivoglio,  in  the  Borgo 
della  Paglia,  beyond  the  Cathedral,  has 
been  frequently  the  residence  of  sove- 
reign princes  during  their  visits  to  Bo- 
logna ;  it  recalls  the  magnificence  of  the 
ancient  palace  of  the  Bfintivoglios,  de- 
stroyed by  the  populace  at  the  instiga- 
tion of  Julius  II.,  who  adopted  this  mode 
of  revenging  himself  on  his  great  rival 
Annibale  Bentivoglio.  In  the  reprisals 
which  followed,  the  vengeance  of  the 
populace  and  their  chief  fell,  as  we 
have  already  stated,  on  the  statue  of 
the  pope,  one  of  the  masterpieces  of 
Michel  Angelo. 

Palazzo  Bemlacqua  Vincenzi,  in  the 
Via  S.  Mamolo  (formerly  belonging  to 
the  Campeggi  family),  whose  architec- 
ture is  attributed  to  Bramantino,  yields 
to  few  in  the  magnificence  of  its  court. 
The  front .  is  a  fine  specimen  of  the 
Diamond  Rustic  style,  surmounted  by 
a  good  cornice,  with  2  handsome  round- 
headed  gateways  opening  into  a  court, 
surrounded  by  a  double  colonnade,  the 
upper  one  partly  enclosed,  of  round 
arches.  There  is  a  very  handsome 
balcony  in  this  palace  towards  the 
street.  In  one  of  the  chambers  is  an 
inscription  recording  that  the  Council  of 
Trent  assembled  here  in  1547,  having 
removed  to  Bologna   by  the    advice 


of  the  celebrated  physician  Fracastorius, 
under  the  pretext  of  contagion. 

Palazzo  dfe*  Bianchi,  in  the  Strada  di 
San  Stefano,  has  a  fine  ceiling  by  Guido, 
representing  the  Harpies  infesting  the 
table  of  ^neas. 

Palazzo  Boncampagni  Ludovisi,  in  a 
street  behind  the  N.  side  of  the  cathe- 
dral, was  built  by  Gregory  XIII.,  a  na- 
tive of  Bologna,  and  is  a  good  specimen 
of  the  domestic  architecture  of  the  16th 
cent.  (1545).  There  are  some  paint- 
ing in  the  great  anteroom  on  the  1st 
floor,  of  events  during  the  Pope's 
pontificate.  This  palace  belongs  to 
the  head  of  the  Boncampagni  family, 
the  Roman  Prince  of  Piombino. 

Palazzo  Fantuzzi,  in  the  Via  di  S. 
Vitale  (see  p.  518). 

Palazzo  Fava,  opposite  the  Ch.  of 
the  Madonna  di  Galliera,  is  rich  in 
frescoes  by  the  Caracci.  The  great  hall 
contains  the  first  fresco  painted  by 
Agostino  and  Annibale,  under  the  direc- 
tion of  Lodovico,  after  their  return 
from  Parma  and  Venice :  it  represents, 
in  a  series  of  18  pictures,  the  Ex- 
pedition of  Jason,  and  is  one  of  the 
most  interesting  examples  of  the  Eclec- 
tic School.  The  small  chamber  adjoin- 
ing is  painted  by  Lodovico,  who  has 
represented  the  Voyage  of  iEneas  in 
12  pictures ;  2  of  them,  the  Polyphe- 
mus and  the  Harpies,  were  coloured  by 
Annibale.  The  next  chamber  is 
painted  by  Alhani,  with  the  assistance 
of  Lodovico  Caracci :  it  presents  16 
subjects,  also  from  the  iEneid.  The 
chamber  beyond  is  painted  by  Lucio 
Massari,  with  the  assistance  of  the 
same  great  master.  The  decorations 
of  the  other  chambers  are  by  his 
pupils,  the  last  room  bein^  by  Cesi; 
subjects  of  the  iEneid  prevail  through- 
out the  whole.  The  paintings  of  a 
cabinet  representing  the  Rape  of  Europa 
are  by  Annibale  Caracci. 

Palazzo  Grassi,  in  the  Via  di  Mezzo, 
has  the  magnificent  fresco  by  Lodovico 
Caracci,  representing  Hercules  armed 
with  a  flambeau  treading  on  the  Hydra ; 
and  some  curious  cameos  by  Properzia 
de*  Bossi,  engraved  on  peach-stones,  and 
illustrating  different  events  of  Scripture 
history. 

Palazzo  Magnani  Guidotti,  in  the  Via 


622 


EoiUe  61. — Boloqna — Palaces, 


Sect.  VII. 


dl  San  Donato,  is  an  imposing  design 
of  Domenico  Tibaldi,  It  is  celebrated 
for  the  frescoes  of  the  3  Caraccis,  re- 
presenting the  history  of  Romulus  and 
Remus,  and  not  inferior  either  in  com- 
position or  in  colour  to  those  in  the 
Parnese  palace.  They  are  called  by 
Lanzi "  the  miracle  of  Caraccescan  art." 

Palazzo  Hercolani,  in  the  Via  Mag- 
giore,  restored  at  the  close  of  the  last 
century  from  the  designs  of  Ventaroli, 
was  famous  throughout  Europe  for  its 
pictures,  sculptures,  and  library,  rich 
m  MSS.  and  printed  books  ;  but  they 
have  nearly  all  disappeared. 

Palazzo  Malvezzi  Bonjioli,  in  the 
Strada  Maggiore,  a  fine  specimen  of 
palace  architecture,  by  Vignohf  has  in 
Its  second  court  an  interesting  series  of 
frescoes  illustrating  the  Gerusalemme 
Liberata,  by  Leonello  Spada,  Lucio 
Massarij  and  Francesco  Brizzi,  In  the 
gallery  is  a  portrait  by  Domenichino,  a 
Sibyl  by  Guido  in  his  early  youth,  and 
some  other  good  works  of  the  Bo- 
lognese  school. 

Palazzo  Malvezzi  Cctmpeggiy  in  the 
Via  di  S.  Donato  (the  other  2  Mal- 
Tczzi  palaces  are  opposite  the  ch.  of  S. 
Giacomo,  in  the  same  street),  designed 
by  the  Formigini,  is  remarkable  for 
some  tapestries  from  designs  of  Lucas 
von  Leyden,  presented  by  Hen.  VIII.  to 
Card.Campeggi,  papal  legate  in  England. 

Palazzo  Marchesini,  formerly  Leoni, 
has  a  fa9ade  designed  by  Girolamo 
da  Treviso.  Under  this  portico  is  a 
fine  Nativity  by  Niccolb  Abate :  it 
was  damaged,  however,. by  restoration 
in  1819.  In  the  great  hall  and  the 
adjoining  chamber  is  a  series  of  very 
beautiful  paintings  by  the  same  master, 
illustrating  the  histoiy  of  ^Eneas. 

Palazzo  Marescalchif  in  the  Via  delle 
Asse,  opposite  the  ch.  of  S.  Salvatore, 
formerly  so  celebrated  for  its  pictures 
by  Correggio,  the  St.  Peter  of  Guido, 
the  St.  Cecilia  of  Domenichino,  and 
other  masterpieces,  has  been  despoiled 
of  its  principal  treasures.  The  fa9ade 
is  by  I>o.  Tibaldi;  the  vestibule  at  the 
top  of  the  stairs  is  painted  in  chiaroscuro 
by  Brizzi;  and  so  profusely  has  art 
lavished  her  resources  here,  that  even 
the  chimney-pieces  are  painted  by  the 
Caraccif  Guido f  and  Tibaldi, 


Palazzo  Marescotti,  in  the  Via  delle 
Grade,  near  the  Piazza  di  San  Dome- 
nico, said  to  have  been  inhabited  by  the 
Caraccis:  is  a  good  specimen  of  the 
domestic  architecture  of  the  16th  cent. ; 
it  is  in  brick,  and  the  northern  ^i^ade 
very  beautiful,  especially  its  windows 
in  moulded  terra-cotta. 

Palazzo  Pepoli,  one  of  the  few  speci- 
mens of  domestic  mediaeval  architecture 
in  Bologna  that  remain,  a  huge  brick 
edifice,  consisting  of  an  agglomeration 
of  several  dwellings.  It  is  situated  in 
the  Strada  di  Castiglione,  in  the  rear  of 
the  Foro  de'  Mercanti.  It  was  erected 
in  1344,  and  is  still  the  residence  of 
the  Pepoli  family ;  it  has  more  the  ap- 
pearance of  a  castle  than  a  palace,  from 
its  height  surmounted  by  machicolated 
defences ;  the  3  painted  gateways  lead- 
ing into  it  are  good  specimens  of  the 
decorated  terracotta  work  of  the  1 5th 
centv.,  2  southernmost:  this  historical 
residence  is  allowed  to  fall  into  decay, 
part  of  it  being  used  as  a  barrack. 
Oh  the  opposite  side  of  the  street  is 
another  palace  of  the  same  name,  but 
of  more  niodem  architecture,  built  from 
the  designs  of  Torri  in  the  beginning  of 
the  last  century,  occupying  the  site  of 
the  ancient  palace  of  the  great  captain 
Taddeo  Pepoli.  It  is  a  fine  building, 
with  frescoes  of  Colonna  and  C7a»i***,  illus- 
trating the  history  of  Taddeo  Pepoli. 

Palazzo  Piella,  formerly  the  Bocchi 
Palace,  near  the  Cathedral,  was  built  by 
Vignola  for  the  learned  Achille  Bocchi, 
who  is  said  to  have  had  some  share  in  its 
design.  The  hall  on  the  ground  floor  has 
a  ceiling  painted  by  Prospero  Fontana  ;  its 
chief  interest  consists  in  its  connexion 
with  Bocchi,  the  historiographer  of 
Bologna  and  founder  of  the  Academy. 

Palazzo  Ranuzzi,  formerly  Lambert 
tini,  in  the  Via  di  S.  Stefano,  built 
from  the  designs  of  Bartolommeo 
Triachini,  is  interesting  for  its  paint- 
ings by  Bolognese  masters  prior  to 
the  Caracci.  The  most  remarkable  of 
these  works  are  the  ceiling  of  the 
upper  hall  by  Tommaso  Laurettiy  the 
Virtues  by  Lorenzo  Sahbatini,  the  Fall 
of  Icarus  by  Orazio  Sajnacchini,  and  the 
Death  of  Hercules  by  Tibaldi. 

Palazzo    Zampierif    in     the     Strada 
Maggiore,  244,  once  so  celebrated  for 


KOMAGNA. 


Route  61, —Bologna — Palaces, 


623 


the  treasures  of  its  gallery;  its  best 
jMctures  have  been  sold;  the  greater 
part  have  been  transferred  to  the 
Brera  Gallery  at  Milan.  But  its  fine 
ceilings  and  chimney-pieces,  by  the 
Caracci  and  Guercino,  are  well  pre- 
served and  will  amply  repay  a  visit. — 

I.  In  the  1st  hall,  the  ceiling,  painted 
by  Lodovico  Caracci,  represents  Jupiter 
-with  the  Eagle  and  Hercules ;  "  in  form, 
dignity  of  feature,  and  magnificence  of 
character,"  says  John  Bell,  **  finely 
suited  to  harmonise  as  a  group.  The 
muscular  figure  and  gigantic  bulk  of 
Hercules  is  imposing  without  extrava- 
gance ;  a  perfect  acquaintance  with  the 
human  figure  is  displayed  with  ad- 
mirable foreshortening  and  great  skill 
and  boldness  in  composition  and  execu- 
tion. The  artist's  knowledge  of  anatomy 
is  discoverable  from  his  correct  pro- 
portions and  fine  bendings,  but  is  not 
obtruded  on  the  eye  by  caricatured  or 
forced  lines."  The  chimney-piece  of 
the  same  apartment  had  a  painting  by 
Agostino  Caracct,representing  Ceres  with 
her  torch  in  search  of  Proserpine,  and,  in 
the  background,  the  Rape  of  the  latter. — 

II.  The  2nd  hall  has  a  ceiling  by  Anni- 
hale  Caracci,  representing  Hercules  in- 
structed by  Virtue. — III.  The  ceiling  of 
the  3rd  hall,  by  Agostino  Caracci,  repre- 
sents Hercules  and  Atlas  supporting  the 
Globe.  The  chimney-piece  of  this  hall, 
by  the  same  master,  represents  Her- 
cules holding  down  Cacus,  preparing  to 
pierce  him  with  the  sharp  end  of  his 
club. — IV.  In  the  4th  hall,  the  ceiling, 
representing  Hercules  strangling  An- 
tSBUS,  is  by  Guercino,  "  A  superb  piece, 
with  fine  deep-toned  colouring,  and 
wonderful  power  of  chiaroscuro.  The 
figure  of  Hercules  is  very  grand,  but 
seems  to  have  occupied  rather  too  much 
of  the  artist's  care.  Antaeus  is  wanting 
in  vigour;  the  resisting  arm  is  not 
drawn  with  force  or  bulk  corresponding 
to  the  action ;  neither  are  the  figures 
sufficiently  connected.  But  the  whole 
piece,  although  liable  to  these  criticisms, 
IS  a  work  of  great  vigour  and  unques- 
tionable merit.  In  oiie  of  the  accom- 
panying ornaments  of  the  ceiling  of  the 
next  rooms  there  is  a  beautiful  little 
painting  by  Guercino,  of  Love  (I  think  it 
should  have  been  Ganymede)  carrying 


off  the  spoils  of  Hercules,  the  skin  of  the 
Nemean  lion,  and  the  club.  The  motto 
under  it  is  '  Iter  ad  superos  gloria 
pandet.' "  —  Bell.  Everything  that 
could  find  a  buyer  has  been  removed, 
even  to  some  of  the  beautiful  works  on 
the  chimney-pieces  above  mentioned. 

Palazzo  Zambeccari,  near  the  Piazetta 
di  S.  Paolo,  No.  354,  Trebbo  dei  Car- 
bonari, had  a  fine  gallery,  rich  in 
works  of  the  Caracci  and  other 
masters.  Among  those  that  remain 
may  be  noticed  Jacob's  Ladder,  and 
Abi'aham  at  table  with  the  Angels, 
by  Lodovico  Caracci ;  the  Dead  Christ, 
by  Agostino ;  the  Sibyl,  the  Elijah,  and 
the  Madonna  and  Child,  by  Guercino; 
the  Marriage  of  St.  Catherine,  by  M- 
hani;  portrait  of  Cardinal  de'  Medici, 
by  Domenichino ;  his  own  portrait,  by 
Baroccio;  St.  John,  by  Caravaggio ;  a 
St.  Sebastian,  and  the  portrait  of  Charles 
v.,  by  Titian;  a  fine  Landscape  by 
Salvator  Rosa  ;  the  Marriage  of  Anne 
Boleyn,  by  Giulio  Bomano;  and  the  6 
Mistresses  of  Charles  II.,  by  Sir  Peter 
Lely,  Besides  these  works,  there  is  a 
Crucifixion,  in  silver,  a  very  beautiful 
work  attributed  to  Benvenuto  Cellini,  On 
the  entrance-door  are  2  bronze  Lion- 
headed  knockers  by  Giovannidi  Bologna. 

One  or  two  of  the  great  halls  have 
been  converted  into  a  receptacle  or 
kind  of  bazaar  for  the  sale  of  pictures, 
of  which  a  vast  number  of  bad  ones 
may  always  be  found  there. 

An  interesting  modem  residence  is 
the  Casa  Bossini,  No.  243,  in  the  Via 
Maggiore,  built  in  1825  for  the  great 
"  Maestro,"  who  resided  here  until  the 
Austrian  occupation,  when  he  volun- 
tarily removed  to  Florence.  It  is 
covered  with  Latin  inscriptions  in 
large  gold  letters,  taken  chiefly  from 
classic  writers.  In  the  front  is  -the 
following  from  Cicero:  — 

"  Non  domo  dominus,  sed  domino  domus." 

On  the  side  is  an  inscription  from  the 
iEneid : — 

It* 

**  Obloquitur  nxmieris  septem  digcrimina  vocum 
Inter  odoratum  lauri  nemus." 

Another  interesting  house  is  that 
of  Guercino,  in  which  the  great  painter 
lived  during  his  residence  at  Bologna : 
it  is  in   the  small  piazza  behind  the 


624 


Houte  61, — Bologna — Torri  AsineUu  Sect.  VII. 


Ch.  of  St.  Nicol5  degli  Albari,  No. 
449.  The  house  of  Guido  has  a 
fresco  of  2  angels  holding  a  crown, 
painted  by  him,  on  the  exterior.  The 
house  in  which  Galvanic  the  discoverer 
of  that  species  of  electricity  to  which 
he  has  given  his  name,  was  born,  is  in 
the  Borgo  delle  Casse,  No.  1347  ;  over 
the  door  is  the  following  inscription  : — 

**  Gsdvanum  except  natum  luxiqae  peremptum 
CiUus  ab  invento  Junctue  uterque  polus." 

The  house  in  which  Galvani  reside'd  is 
in  the  Corso,  opposite  to  the  Albergo 
Suizzero.  Benedict  XIV.  was  born  in 
the  Casa  Lambertini  in  the  Via  della 
Campane,  out  of  the  Via  di  San  Do- 
nato. 

Of  the  other  public  buildings  and 
institutions  of  Bologna,  one  of  the 
most  interesting  to  the  architectural 
antiquary  is  the  Foro  de*  Mercanti,  or 
Palazzo  della  Mercanzia,  the  best  pre- 
served example  of  the  ornamented 
Italian  Gothic  in  the  city.  It  was 
built  in  1294  of  moulded  brickwork, 
and  restored  as  it  now  stands  in  1499 
by  the  Bentivoglios  during  their  politi- 
cal ascendency.  The  interior  contains 
the  Exchange  and  the  Tribunal  of 
Commerce.  On  the  stairs  have  been 
of  late  years  painted,  commencing  from 
the  top,  the  shields  of  the  ten  corpora- 
tions of  the  city — Camhiatores,  Mercanti, 
Macellariy  Merciari,  Orefici,  Tallegart, 
Drappi  a  lana,  Drappi  e  Strazziolari, 
SpeziaU,  and  Bambiriari — and  of  the 
Consuls  of  Commerce  from  a.d.  1441 
to  1813. 

Near  the  Foro  de*  Mercanti  is  a 
large  open  space,  from  which  branch 
off  four  streets  leading  to  the  principal 
gates  of  the  city.  Here  are  the  2  cele- 
brated leaning  towers,  called  the  Torre 
degli  Asinelli  and  the  Torre  Garisenda, 
the  most  remarkable  edifices  in  Bologna, 
but  so  destitute  of  architectural  at- 
tractions, that  Mr.  Matthews  compares 
them  to  the  "  chimney  of  a  steam-en- 
gine, blown  a  little  out  of  the  perpen- 
dicular." The  Torre  degli  Asinelli^  be- 
gun in  1109  by  Gherardo  degli  Asinelli, 
was  shown,  Dy  the  investigations  of 
Tadolini,  to  have  been  finished  at  dif- 
ferent periods.  It  is  a  square  and  of  mas- 
sive brickwork,  divided  into  3  portions : 


the  lowest  has  a  projecting  battlement, 
which  is  occupied  by  shops ;  the  others 
diminish  from  below  upwards  in  their 
outward  diameter,  whilst  the  inner  one 
increases,  owing  to  the  lesser  solidity 
and  thickness  of   the    walls  as   they 
ascend.    The  height  of  the  tower   is 
292}  feet  (89*2  metres),  and  to  the  top 
of  the  lantern  321   ft.,  according    to 
measurements  made  in  1857  by  Prof. 
Respighi.    The  inclination  was  ascer- 
tained at  the  same  time  to  be  1^  16' 
from    the  vertical,   or  equal    to   6  ft. 
lOj  in.  from  the   centre  of  gravity; 
that  of  3  ft.  4  in.,  stated  on  the  marble 
tablet  on  the  W.  front,  having  evidently 
been    obtained    by  erroneous    means. 
The  direction  of  the  inclination  is  to 
the  W.,  quite  opposite  to  that  of  the 
neighbouring  T.  Garisenda.    Professor 
Respighi  also  found  that  the  amount 
of  inclination  was  different  in  the  three 
portions  of  the  shaft ;  the  largest  in  the 
lower  one  as  high  as  the  machicolated 
projection,  less  in  the  central  one,  and 
very  small  in  the  highest.  The  T.  degli 
Asinelli  can  be  ascended  without  dai- 
ger,   the  stairs   being   perfectlv    safe. 
There  are  449  steps  in  all,  divided  into 
flights  of  )  0  each,  between  which  there 
are   convenient   landing-places.      The 
lower  stairs  are  for  a  short  way  round 
an  axis,  the  remainder  placed  against 
the  inner  walls.    Near  the  summit  are 
two  cross-groined  arches,  on  which  rests 
the  terminal  terrace,  to  strengthen  which 
two  others  have  been  more  recently 
added.     On  the  top  is  a  kind  of  lantern 
or  belfry,  containing  a  bell  of  no  large 
dimensions,  which  is  only  tolled  on  very 
solemn  or  important  occasions. 

It  does  not  appear  that  the  inclina- 
tion of  the  tower  has  undergone  any 
change  of  late  years.  As  to  its  use, 
there  is  eveiy  reason  for  believing  that, 
like  many  others  in  Bologna,  it  was 
reared  from  family  vanity ;  as,  from  its 
mode  of  construction,  it  could  scarcely 
have  served  for  retreat  or  defence, 
and,  being  almost  without  windows 
for  the  admission  of  light,  it  could  not 
have  served  as  a  place  of  habitation. 
The  view  from  the  summit  is  most 
interesting,  and  the  panorama  which  it 
embraces  so  magnificent  that  no  tra- 
veller visiting    Bologna    should   omit 


ROMAGNA. 


Route  Ql.-^Botogna — ArcJiiginnassio. 


525 


ascending.  It  is  entered  by  a  low  door 
on  the  S.  side,  "where  the  keeper,  an 
obliging  cobbler,  will  be  found,  and 
vho  wUl  accompany  the  visitor  to  the 
summit  and  point  out  the  different 
localities  seen  from  it.  He  will  dis- 
cover at  his  feet  the  whole  city  spread 
before  him ;  the  richly-clad  hilly  range, 
at  the  N.  foot  of  which  Bologna  lies ; 
the  Via  Emilia  stretching  in  a  straight 
line  for  22  m.  to  Castel  Bolognese  on 
one  side  (the  E.),  and  on  the  other  to 
Modena,  with  the  rich  plain  of  the 
Romagna  towards  the  N.  and  E.,  and, 
in  clear  weather,  the  Euganean  and 
Veronese  hills  beyond,  and  still  far- 
ther the  snow-capped  peaks  of  the 
Tyrolese,  Styrian,  and  Carinthian  Alps. 
The  other  tower,  La  Garisenda, 
also  called  Za  Mozza,  built  by 
the  brothers  Filippo  and  Oddo  Ga- 
risendi,  in  1110,  is  161  feet  high. 
Its  inclination,  in  1792,  was  8  Bo- 
lognese feet  to  the  E.,  and  3  to 
the  S. ;  but  some  measurements  made 
by  Professors  Bacelli  and  Antolini, 
in  1813,  showed  an  increase  of  an 
inch  and  a  half  over  the  former  ob- 
servations. Alidosi  and  other  writers 
have  endeavoured  to  maintain  that 
the  inclination  of  the  Garisenda  tower 
is  the  effect  of  art ;  as  if  Italy  did  not 
present  an  abundance  of  such  examples 
in  situations  where  the  ground  is  liable 
to  gradual  sinking,  and  earthquakes 
are  of  common  occurrence.  The  best 
answer  to  this  absurd  idea  is  that 
the  courses  of  brick  and  the  holes  to 
receive  the  timbers  of  the  floors  are 
also  inclined,  which  they  certainly 
would  not  have  been  if  the  tower  had 
been  built  in  its  present  form.  The 
Garisenda,  however,  has  a  higher  in- 
terest than  that  derived  from  this 
question,  since  it  supplied  Dante  with 
a  fine  simile,  in  which  he  compares  the 
giant  Antseus,  stooping  to  seize  him 
and  his  guide,  to  this  tower,  as  it  is 
seen  ft-om  beneath  when  the  clouds  are 
flying  over  it : — 

'*  Qua!  pare  a  riguardar  la  Garisenda 
Sotto  il  diinato,  quando  un  nuvol  vada 
Sovra  essa  si,  ch'  clla  in  contrario  penda, 

Tal  parve  Anteo  a  me,  che  stava  a  vada 
Di  vcUerlo  chinarc,  e  fa  tal  ora 
Che  io  avrei  voluto  ir  per  altra  strada," 

l7^.  xxxi. 


There  are  remains  of  some  other 
similar  towers  in  different  parts  of  Bo- 
logna, especially  two  on  either  side  of 
the  Archbishop's  Palace,  the  bases  of 
which  are  built  of  blocks  of  gypsum ; 
being  mutilated,  neither  attain  a  great 
height. 

The  noble  building  opening  out  the 
Portico  del  Pavaglione  adjoining  San 
Petrouio,  called  the  Archiginnassio,  once 
the  seat  of  the  university,  then  de- 
signated as  the  Scmle  and  Studio  Pitb- 
blico,  before  it  was  transferred  to  its 
present  site,  is  one  of  the  finest  edifices 
in  Bologna.  It  was  designed  in  1662, 
by  Terribilia,  and  consists  of  a  hand- 
some cortile  surrounded  by  a  Doric 
portico  below,  and  an  Ionic  loggia 
above.  The  building  has  been  re- 
cently restored  at  the  expense  of 
the  municipality,  for  the  purpose  of 
placing  the  public  library,  or  BHilio- 
teca  del  Comuney  formed  chiefly  by  a 
learned  ecclesiastic,  Magnani,  who 
bequeathed  it  to  his  native  city.  The 
apartments  once  appropriated  to  the 
schools  have  some  good  paintings  by 
Samacchini^  SabbatiniyOxid  their  scholars. 
Under  the  portico,  and  in  the  loggie 
above  are  several  interesting  me- 
morials of  deceased  professors  :  that 
of  the  physician  Muratori  is  by  his 
daughter  Teresa ;  that  of  the  celebrated 
anatomist  Malpighi  is  by  Fmnceschini ; 
next  to  it  is  that  of  Valsalva,  also  a 
celebrated  anatomist,  with  his  bust  in 
relief ;  that  of  Mariani  is  by  Carlo  Cig- 
nani;  and  that  of  the  philosopher 
Sbaraglia  by  Donate  Creti.  In  the 
adjoining  chapel  of  Sta.  Maria  de*  Bul- 
gari  are  some  paintings  which  deserve 
to  be  seen :  the  Annunciation  at  the  high 
altar  is  by  Calmert,  and  the  frescoes  on 
the  walls,  representing  the  nativity  and 
death  of  the  Virgin,  sibyls,  and  pro- 
phets, are  by  Cesi.  A^l  the  halls,  gal- 
leries, and  loggie  are  decorated  with 
the  coats  of  arms  of  the  students  of  the 
ancient  university,  forming  a  curious 
and  not  unpleasmg  kind  of  decoration : 
there  are  many  hundreds  of  these 
escutcheons,  with  the  names  and  coun- 
try of  their  owners. 

In  the  upper  corridors  are  arranged 
several  Roman  and  Egyptian  bas-reliefs 
and  marbles,  forming  parts  of  the  col- 

2b3 


526 


Eoute  61 .  —  Bologna — Theatres — Eivdrons,        Sect.  VII. 


lections  bequeated  to  his  native  town 
by  the  eminent  painter  Pelagio  Pelagi, 
the  fruits  of  his  industry  for  several 
years. 

The  Collegio  di  Spagna,  in  the  Via 
di  Saragoza,  the  Spanish  college,  was 
founded  in  13G4,  by  Cardinal  Albor- 
noz.  It  was  formerly  remarkable  for 
the  frescoes  of  its  portico  by  Anni- 
hale  Caraccif  in  his  youth,  but  they 
have  almost  disappeared.  •  In  the  up- 
per loggia  is  the  fine  fresco  by  Bag- 
nacavallOf  representing  the  Virgin  and 
Child,  St.  Elizabeth,  St.  John,  and  St. 
Joseph,  with  an  angel  above  scattering 
flowers,  and  the  Cardinal  founder  kneel- 
ing '  in  veneration.  The  great  fresco 
of  Bagnacavallo,  representing  Charles 
V.  crowned  in  S.  Petronio  by  Clement 
VII.,  although  much  injured,  is  by 
far  the  most  interesting  work,  because 
it  is  a  contemporary  pictorial  record. 
From  this  circumstance  we  may  regard 
the  picture  as  a  series  of  authentic  por- 
traits, in  the  precise  costume  of  the 
period.  In  the  ch.  annexed  to  the 
college  are  some  frescoes  by  C  Pro- 
caccini ;  a  St.  Margaret,  with  Saints 
Jerome  and  Francis,  by  G.  Francia; 
and  in  the  Sacristy  an  Ancona  in  21 
compartments,  by  Marco  Zoppo, 

The  Collegio  Venturoli,  so  called  from 
the  eminent  architect  of  Bologna,  who 
founded  it  for  architectural  studies  in 
1825,  occupies  the  building  formerly 
used  as  the  Hungarian  College.  The 
pupils  are  educated  here  until  their 
20th  year.  The  establishment  is  well 
managed,  and  tends  to  keep  alive  the 
arts  of  design  among  the  young  stu- 
dents of  Bologna.  The  marble  bust  of 
Venturoli  is  by  Professor  Demaria. 

The  Teatro  Comunale,  in  the  Strada 
di  San  Donate,  was  built  in  1756,  on 
the  site  of  the  ancient  palace  of  Gio- 
vanni II.  Bentivoglio,  which  was  de- 
stroyed by  the  populace  at  the  in- 
stigation of  Pope  Julius  II.  The 
design  of  the  theatre  is  by  Bibiena, 
but  it  has  been  frequently  altered  and 
adapted  to  the  purposes  of  the  modern 
opera.  The  cuilain,  representing  the 
Apotheosis  of  Felsina  or  Bononia  is  by 
N.  Angiolini, 

The  Teatro  Contavalli,  erected  in 
1814,  in  a  part  of  the  suppressed  Car- 


melite convent  of  S.  Martlno  Maggiore. 
The  old  convent  stairs  serve  for  the  ap- 
proach to  the  modem  theatre- — another 
of  those  strange  contrasts  so  frequently 
met  with  in  Italy. 

f  he  Teatro  del  Corso  was  built  in 
1 805,  from  the  designs  of  Santini,  and 
is  one  of  the  most  popular  places  of 
amusement  in  the  city. 

In  the  Palazzo  Bolognini,  near  the 
Sti*ada  di  S.  Stefano,  a  Casino,  supplied 
with  literary  and  political  journals,  was 
formed  a  few  years  ago  for  the  conve- 
nience of  the  upper  classes;  musical 
parties,  conversazioni,  and  balls  are 
given  here. 

The  Accademia  Filarmonica,  No.  614, 
Cartoleria  Nova,  and  the  Liceo  Filar- 
monico,  in  the  convent  of  S.  Giacomo,  in- 
stitutions peculiarly  appropriate  to  a 
city  which  boasts  of  being  the  most  mu- 
sical in  Italy,  have  acquired  an  Euro- 
pean reputation.  The  academy  was 
founded  by  Vincenzo  Carrati,  in  1666, 
and  has  numbered  among  its  members 
the  most  eminent  professors  of  the 
2  last  centuries.  The  Lyceum,  found- 
ed in  1805,  by  the  municipality,  as  a 
school  of  music,  is  enriched  with  the 
unrivalled  musical  library  and  collec- 
tions of  the  celebrated  Padre  Martini. 
The  library  contains  no  less  than  1 7,000 
volumes  of  printed  music,  and  the  finest 
collection  of  ancient  manuscript  music 
in  existence.  There  is  an  interesting 
collection  of  portraits  of  professors  and 
dilettanti,  another  of  antique  instru- 
ments, and  a  fine  series  of  choir-books 
with  miniatures. 

The  Montagnuolaf  a  slight  elevation 
at  the  N.  extremity  of  the  town,  was 
converted,  during  the  occupation  of  the 
French,  into  a  public  promenade,  Uie 
only  one  within  the  walls. 

Environs  of  Bologna,  —  Outside  the 
Porta  di  Castiglione  is  the  ch.  of  ia 
Misericordia,  ruined  in  the  wars  of 
the  15th  century,  and  partly  rebuilt 
with  little  regard  to  the  uniformity 
of  the  original  plan.  It  contains  some 
pictures  of  interest.  The  Annuncia- 
tion, on  the  wall  over  the  entrance,  is 
by  Passerotti;  the  Virgin,  called  La 
Madonna  della  Consolazione,  at  the 
2nd  altar,  is  by  Lipjyo  diDalmasio;  at 
the   6th  is  the  Descent  of  the  Holy 


HoMAQNA.     Boute  Sl.-^Bdogna^^JBrmrons :  S,  Michele  in  Bosco.     527 


Spirit)  by  Ccsi;  at  the  6tb,  an  An- 
iiuuciatioii,  by  U,  Gandolfi ;  in  the 
choir,  a  picture  in  3  portions, — the 
upper,  consisting  of  a  half  figure  of 
the  Saviour,  and  2  good  female  heads, 
is  probably  by  l\  Francia — the  cen- 
tral portion,  a  Nativity,  and  the  lower 
one,  a  Virgin  and  Saints,  by  a  very 
inferior  hand;  8th,  or  l.-hand  tran- 
sept, the  Tabernacle,  supported  by 
4  Doctora  of  the  Church,  is  carved  in 
cypress  wood  by  Marco  Tedesco  of  Cre- 
mona, an  able  sculptor  in  wood  of  the 
17th  century,  who  also  executed  the 
ornaments  of  the  organ  and  singing 
gallery. 

Close  to  the  Porta  di  S.  Mamolo 
is  the  ch.  of  the  Armunziata,  at- 
tached to  a  Franciscan  convent.  It  has 
some  interesting  paintings,  particu- 
larly by  F,  Francia.  In  the  2nd  chapel 
is  the  Madonna  and  Child,  with  St. 
John,  St.  Paul,  and  St.  Francis,  by 
that  celebrated  master.  In  the  3rd  is 
the  Crucifixion,  with  the  Magdalen, 
the  Virgin,  St.  Jerome,  and  St.  Francis, 
by  the  same,  with  the  ordinary  inscrip- 
tiqn  "Francia  Aurifex*'  at  the  foot  of 
the  Cross.  4th,  the  Nuptials  of  the 
Virgin,  by  Costa,  5th,  St.  Francis  in 
ecstasy,  by  Gessi,  a  superb  painting 
worthy  of  Guido.  3rd  on  1.,  the  Ma- 
donna del  Monte,  by  Lippo  di  Dalmasio, 
'i'he  Annunciation,  with  4  saints,  in  the 
choir,  is  another  beautiful  work  of 
Francia,  In  the  Sacristy  a  Dead 
Christ,  by  G,  Francia^  and  several 
portraits.  D.  Tibaldi  is  buried  in 
this  ch.  Outside  the  church  is  a  long 
portico,  painted  in  fresco  by  Gia- 
como  Lippi  and  other  pupils  of  the 
Caracci.  The  Shepherds  worshipping 
the  newly -bom  Saviour  is  by  Paolo 
Caracci,  from  a  design  by  his  brother 
Lodovico.  Not  far  from  the  ch.  of 
the  Annunziata,  towards  the  Piazza  di 
Castiglione,  was 

The  ancient  little  church  of  the 
Madonna  di  Mezzaratta,  built  in  1106, 
formerly  one  of  the  depositories  of 
sacred  Italian  art.  A  considerable 
part  of  the  building  had  fallen  down, 
and  what  remained,  having  been  pur- 
chased by  Cav.  Minghetti,  has  been 
cleaned  and  restored.  The  frescoes  are 
attributed  to  Jacopo  Avanzi,  Galasso  Ga- 


lassi,  Simone  da  Bologna,  and  other  early 
artists  of  the  Bolognese  school,  and  are 
interesting  as  its  earliest  cfibrts,  al- 
though as  works  of  art  far  behind  their 
contemporaries  of  the  Tuscan,  Umbrian, 
and  Lombard.  The  Marriage  of  Jacob 
and  Rachel,  attributed  to  Galasso  Ga- 
lassi,  is  one  of  the  most  curious.  The 
frescoes  here  are,  however,  worth  a 
visit. 

Not  far  from  this  are  the  Bagni  di 
Mario,  an  octagonal  building,  con- 
structed in  1.564,  by  Tommaso  Lau- 
retti,  for  the  purpose  of  collecting  and 
purifying  the  water  for  the  Fountain  of 
Neptune.  It  derives  its  name  from  the 
ruins  of  the  ancient  aqueduct,  built, 
it  is  said,  by  Marius,  and  restored  by 
Hadrian  and  Antoninus  Pius,  as  shown 
by  inscriptions  in  the  Museum. 

On  the  hill  above  Bologna,  beauti- 
fully situated,  stands  the  ch.  of  San 
Michele  in  Bosco^  attached  to  the  sup- 
pressed monastery  of  the  Olivetans. 
This  great  establishment,  in  the  time  of 
Bishop  Burnet  one  of  the  finest  ex- 
amples of  monastic  splendour  in  Italy, 
was  suppressed  at  the  French  invasion ; 
its  magnificent  halls  were  converted 
into  ban'acks  and  prisons  for  condemned 
criminals,  and  its  best  pictures  were 
carried  to  Paris.  The  walls  and  ceil- 
ings, painted  by  Ludovico  Caracci  and 
his  school,  are  gradually  falling  into 
ruin,  and  the  famous  cloister,  which 
was  entirely  decorated  by  37  subjects 
by  these  great  artists,  is  now  a  melan- 
choly wreck.  Many  of  the  paintings 
have  entirely  disappeared,  and  of  those 
which  remain  the  subjects  are  hardly 
to  be  distinguished.  They  represented 
the  history  of  St.  Benedict  and  St. 
Cecilia,  St.  Tiburtius  and  Sta.  Valeriana: 
the  one  by  Guido  was  retouched  by 
himself  only  a  few  years  before  his 
death. 

The  library  of  the  convent,  built 
from  the  designs  of  Giovanni  Giacomo 
Monti,  had  in  its  several  compartments 
paintings  illustrating  the  subjects  of 
the  works  contained  in  them  ;  they  were 
executed  by  Canuti,  a  pupil  of  Guido, 
at  the  suggestion  of  the  Abbate  Pepoli, 
but  they  have  shared  in  the  general 
ruin.  In  the  splendid  dormitory,  427 
ft.  in  length,  are  preserved  the  dial  of  the 


628 


Eoute  61. — Bologna — Envirom, 


Sect.  VII. 


dock  paiuted  by  Innocenzo  da  Tmola 
with  figures  and  festoons  of  fruit; 
several  models  of  sculpture,  amongst 
others  of  a  horse  by  Canova,  and  of 
Gian  di  Bologna's  Neptune ;  and  several 
pictures  belonging  to  the  JPinacotheca, 
which,  for  want  of  room  at  the  Acca- 
demia,  have  been  brought  here. 

The  ch.  contains  some  good  paint- 
ings. In  the  1st  chapel,  a  copy  of 
Guercino's  Beato  Tolomeo,  which  is 
now  in  France,  and  once  stood  here. 
2nd,  the  Death  of  San  Carlo,  and,  3rd, 
the  S.  Francesca  Romana,  both  by 
Fiorini,  4th.  In  this  chapel  is  the 
monument  of  Ramazzotti,  a  condot- 
tiere  in  the  service  of  the  Popes  in 
the  16th  century,  by  A,  Lombardo. 
The  4  medallions  on  the  roof  are  by 
Cignani,  The  large  lunette  of  S. 
Michael  at  the  high  altar,  and  the 
cupola  over  it,  are  by  Canuti.  In  the 
sacristy  are  frescoes  of  13  saints  by 
BagnacavaUo,  The  other  paintings 
have  suffered  greatly,  the  apartment 
having  long  been  used  as  a  hay-store. 

The  conventual  buildings  of  S.  Mi- 
chele  in  Bosco  were  converted  into  a 
barrack,  and  the  fine  halls  of  the 
Ulivetan  monks  occupied  by  soldiery, 
during  the  Austrian  occupation.  The 
ch.  is  generally  closed;  the  grounds 
and  gardens  have  been  converted  into 
a  promenade;  and  a  fine  road  leads 
to  the  convent  from  the  Porta  di  S. 
Mamolo,  constructed  by  the  mu- 
nicipality, obliged  to  do  so  by  the 
Austrian  authorities,  to  connect  it  with 
their  park  of  artillery  below,  St.  Mi- 
chele  being  a  strong  military  position 
commanding  the  city.  The  Conven- 
tual buildings  have  been  converted 
into  a  Royal  villa,  and  surrounded  by 
handsome  gardens  for  the  use  of  the  so- 
vereign and  the  royal  family,  who  reside 
in  it  during  their  visits  to  Bologna.  On 
the  hill  opposite  rises  a  Grecian  man- 
sion, built  by  Aldini,  one  of  Napoleon's 
ministers  under  the  kingdom  of  Italy. 
Its  proprietor  was  forced  to  abandon 
it,  to  allow  of  its  being  converted  into 
an  Austrian  military  position.  The 
view  of  the  city,  and  of  the  plain  of  the 
Romagna,  is  very  fine  from  this  point. 
Outside  the  gate  called  La  Porta 
di  Saragozza,  lately  restored  by  the  mu- 


nicipality, is  the  fine  arch  designed  by 
Monti  in  1675  as  a  propylaeum  or  en- 
trance to  the  celebrated  Portico  leading 
to  the  Madonna  di  8.  Luca.     This  ex- 
traordinary example  of   public   spirit 
and  devotion,  which  we  regret  to  say  sus- 
tained damage  from  the  Austrian  soldiery 
in  1849,  was  projected  by  the  Canon 
Zeneroli  of  Pieve  di  Cento,  who  pre- 
sented to  the  senate  his  memorial  on 
the  subject  in  1672.     On  the  28th  June, 
1674,  the  first  stone  was  laid  between 
what  are  now  the  130th  and  131st  arches. 
The  portico  is  1 2ft.  broad  and  1 5ft.  high, 
and  consists  of  2  portions,  one  called 
the  Portico  della  Pianura,  the  other  the 
P.  della  Salita ;  it  is  not  in  a  straight 
line,  but  has  several  angles  or  turnings 
in    consequence    of    the    irregularity 
of  the  ground.  ,  In   1676  the  whole 
portico  of    the    plain,    consisting    of 
306  arches,  was  completed  at  the  cost 
of  90,900  scudi.   Here  the  Portico  della 
Salita  begins,  and  is  united  to  the  1st 
portico  by  the  grand  arch,  called,  from 
the  neighbouring  torrent,  the  "  Arco  di 
Meloncello,"  built  at  the  cost  of  the 
Monti  family,  from  the  designs  of  K- 
biena.    The  difficulties  of  the  ascent 
were  skilfully  overcome;  and  the  money 
was  raised  by  the  voluntary  contribu- 
tions of  the  inhabitants,  aided  by  the 
donations  of  the  corporation  and  reli- 
gious communities,  as  is  shown  by  the 
inscriptions    recording    their  benefac- 
tions.     The   theatres   even  promoted 
the  work  by  presenting  the  proceeds 
of  several  performances  given  for  the 
purpose.      From   1676    to   1730,    329 
arches  of  the  ascent  were  finished,  with 
the   15  chapels  of  the  Rosary,  at  the 
cost  of  170,300  scudi ;  and  in  1739  the 
entire  portico  was  completed,  includ- 
ing, from  the  Porta  di  Saragozza  to  the 
ch.,  no  less  than  635  arches,  occupying 
a  space  little  short  of  3  m.  in  length. 

The  magnificent  ch.,  occupying  the 
summit  of  the  Monte  della  Guardia, 
derives  its  name  of  the  Madonna  di  S. 
Luca  from  one  of  those  numerous 
black  images  of  the  Virgin  traditionally 
attributed  to  St.  Luke.  It  is  said  to 
have  been  brought  to  this  spot  in  1160, 
by  a  hermit  from  Constantinople ;  and 
is  still  regarded  with  so  much  venera- 
tion, that  its  annual  visit  to  the  city  is 


EOMAGNA. 


HotUe  61. — Bologna — Certosd, 


529 


the  scene  of  one  of  the  greatest  public 
festivals  of  the  Bolognese.  The  church 
■was  built  in  the  last  century  from  the 
designs  of  Dotti,  but  not  in  the  purest 
taste.  It  contains  numerous  paintings 
by  modem  artists,  but  none  of  the  great 
Bolognese  masters,  excepting  a  Ma- 
donna with  S.  Dominick,  and  the  15 
Mysteries  of  the  Rosary,  in  the  3rd 
chapel  on  the  rt.,  by  GuidOf  one  of 
his  earliest  productions.  The  miracu- 
lous image  of  the  Virgin  is  preserved 
in  a  recess  above  the  high  altar,  in 
a  case  of  marble  and  gilt  bronze, 
and  is  still  the  object  of  pilgrim- 
ages. The  view  from  Monte  della 
Guardia  is  alone  sufficient  to  repay  a 
visit  to  the  ch.  The  rich  and  glowing 
plains,  from  the  Adriatic  to  the  Alps  and 
Apennines,  are  seen  spread  out  like  a 
map  in  the  foreground,  studded  with 
villages,  churches,  convents,  and. cities, 
among  which  Ferrara,  Modena,  and 
Imola  may  be  distinctly  recognised. 
Towards  the  E.  the  prospect  is  bound- 
ed by  the  Adriatic,  and  on  the  W. 
and  S.  the  eye  ranges  along  the  pic- 
turesque and  broken  line  of  Apennines. 
It  is  impossible  to  imagine  a  scene  more 
charming  or  more  beautiful. 

Public  Cemetery. — In  returning  to  the 
city,  and  about  1  m.  from  the  gate  of 
S.  Isaia,  is  the  ancient  Certosa^  built 
in  1335  by  the  Carthusian  monks, 
and  suppressed  in  1797.  It  was  con- 
secrated in  1801  as  the  public  cemetery, 
and  has  been  much  praised  as  one  of 
the  finest  models  for  an  extensive 
modem  Campo  Santo.  It  was  one  of 
the  first  acts  of  the  government  of 
Napoleon,  who  forbad  the  burial  of 
the  dead  within  the  city ;  and  its  regu- 
lations are  remarkable  as  establishing 
no  exclusion  of  sect,  although  separate 
enclosures  are  set  apart  for  Protestants, 
Jews,  and  ecclesiastics,  including  mo- 
nastic individuals  of  both  sexes.  The 
ch.  of  the  monastery,  which  has  been 
preserved,    retains    many    remarkable 

gain  tings :  in  the  1st  chapel  on  the  rt. 
and,  the  Last  Judgment,  and  the  2 
saints  by  the  side,  are  by  Canuti;  the 
S.  Bruno,  at  the  altar,  is  by  Cesi,  The 
other  large  picture,  representing  the 
Asceni^on,  is  by  Bihiena.  On  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  nave  is  the  Supper  in  the 


House  of  the  Pharisee,  and  the  Mag- 
dalen at  the  feet  of  Christ,  by  Andrea 
Sirani,  The  Baptism  of  Christ  is  a 
large  composition  by  his  daughter 
JElisabetta,  painted  in  her  20th  year 
(a.d.  1658),  with  her  sitting  portrait, 
and  her  name.  The  Miraculous  Draught 
of  Fishes,  Christ  driving  the  money- 
changers from  the  Temple,  and  the 
4  Carthusian  Saints  were  the  last 
works  of  Gessi.  The  2  pictures  re- 
presenting Christ  entering  Jerusalem, 
and  appearing  to  the  Virgin  with 
the  host  of  patriarchs  after  the  re- 
surrection, are  by  Lorenzo  FasinelH, 
At  the  high  altar,  the  Crucifixion,  the 
Christ  praying  in  the  garden,  and  the 
Deposition,  are  by  Cesi.  In  an  inner 
chapel  are  the  Annunciation,  by  Cesi ; 
Christ  bearing  the  Cross,  a  half-length 
in  fresco,  by  Lodovico  Caracci ;  S. 
Bernardino  in  fresco,  by  Amico  Asper- 
tini ;  and  another  Christ  with  the  Cross, 
by  Massari, 

The  Cemetery,  which  is  open  to  the 
Public  on  Sundays,  but  which  can  be 
seen  at  other  times  on  application  to 
the  custode,  occupies  the  corridors  of 
the  two  spacious  cloisters  of  the  convent, 
in  which  niches  in  the  walls  have 
been  built  to  receive  the  dead.  The 
general  effect  is  very  fine,  and  some 
of  the  tombs  and  monuments  are  re- 
markable not  only  for  the  names  they 
record,  but  for  the  character  of  their 
design.  The  large  area  of  each  cloister 
is  occupied  by  the  graves  of  the  poorer 
classes  unable  to  pay  for.  a  privileged 
site  under  the  cloisters.  In  the 
large  cloister  are  interred  adults, 
the  men  on  one  side,  females  on  the 
other  ;  and  in  the  smaller  one,  children 
only.  Great  additions  have  been  made 
of  late  years.  Amongst  others,  a  kind 
of  Pantheon  for  the  learned,  or  pro- 
fessors of  the  University,  their  bodies 
being  interred  beneath,  their  busts  in 
a  spacious  hall  above.  Collections  of 
engravings  of  some  of  these  monu- 
ments have  been  published,  as  well  as 
the  inscriptions,  composed  by  Professor 
Schiassi,  and  much  admired  for  their 
pure  Latinity.  Several  monuments 
from  churches  desecrated  during  the 
revolution  have  been  removed  here, — 
some  of  a  very  remote  period,  as  may 


530 


Route  61. — Bologna — Climate — Diakct,         Sect.  VIL 


be  seen  in  one  of  the  entrance  halls, 
chiefly  from  the  desecrated  ch.  of 
San  Francesco,  amongst  which  that  of 
Pope  Aleltander  V.  (1410),  and  some 
a  much  remoter  period— some  good 
ones  of  professors  teaching  surrounded 
by  their  auditors.  In  the  small  court 
beyond  this  are  others  extremely  beau- 
tiful as  works  of  art,  amongst  which 
may  be  cited  the  monuments  to  Fran- 
cesco Abbergato,  and  Sigismondo  Mal- 
vezzi,  very  fine  specimens  of  cinque- 
cento  style  (15f7);  and  that  of  Ales- 
sandro  Zambecari,  with  a  statue  in 
armour  of  the  most  elaborate  carving 
of  the  end  of  the  16th  century.  In 
and  near  the  chapel,  in  the  outer  or 
great  cloister,  are  the  monuments  of 
Vigano  and  Vestris,  of  theatrical 
celebrity. 

On  the  right  of  the  principal  entrance 
to  the  cemeterv  is  a  small  walled-in 
space,  destined  as  the  last  resting- 
place  of  our  Protestant  country-men, 
and  of  all  creeds  not  Roman  Catholic. 

Leaving  the  city  in  the  opposite  di- 
rection, by  the  Porta  Maggiore  is  the 
Portico  degli  Scalziy  consisting  of  167 
arches,  and  1700  feet  in  length,  leading 
to  the'  ch.  called  GH  Scalzi,  or  the 
Madonna  di  Strada  Maggiore.  The 
ch.  has  some  good  paiutmgs,  among 
which  may  be  mentioned  a  good  Holy 
Family  by  Pasinelli ;  the  Sta.  Teresa 
praying,  by  Canuti ;  the  Assumption 
of  the  Virgin,  by  Sabbatini,  and  other 
works  of  the  Bolognese  school. 

The  epithet  of  Grassa,  given  to  Bo- 
logna by  the  historian  Paul  Vau  Merle, 
of  Ley  den,  in  the  15th  century,  applies 
as  much  to  the  lioing  and  culinary  deli- 
cacies of  the  inhabitants  as  to  the  pro- 
ductions of  its  fertile  territory.  The 
wines  of  its  neighbourhood  are  very 
tolerable,  and  the  fruits,  particularly 
the  grapes,  are  much  esteemed.  The 
mortadella,  everywhere  known  as  the 
Bologna  sausage,  still  keeps  up  its  re- 
putation: the  cervellatOf  a  kind  of 
plum  pudding,  is  peculiar  to  Bologna. 
It  is  only  made  in  the  winter.  Lam- 
bertini,  a  collateral  relative  of  Bene- 
dict XIV.,  in  the  Via  Maggiore,  is 
one  of  the  best  manufacturers  of  these 
dainties. 

Mr.    Beckford   has  designated  Bo- 


logna as  ''a  city  of  pappy-dogs  and 
sausages."  The  dogs  of  Bologna, 
so  celebrated  in  the  middle  ages,  and 
alluded  to  in  the  epitaph  on  King 
Enzius  in  the  ch.  of  S.  Domenico, 
were  worthy  of  more  respect  than  is 
implied  in  this  flippant  remark;  they 
have  unfortunately  disappeared,  and  a 
trace  of  their  pure  breed  can  scarcely 
now  be  discovered. 

In  a  University  town,  so  celebrated 
for  its  medical  professors,  the  invalid 
can  never  be  at  a  loss  for  good  advice ; 
the  ordinary  fee,  either  for  physicians 
or  surgeons,  is  5  francs,  and  for  consul- 
tations 10. 

The  climate  is  considered  healthy, 
but  in  winter  Bologna  is  reputed  to  be 
cold  and  in  summer  the  hottest  city  in 
Italy.  In  other  respects,  amply  pro- 
vided with  the  necessaries  and  luxuries 
of  life,  with  an  intellectual  society,  to 
say  nothing  of  its  works  of  art,  Bo- 
logna is  peculiarly  calculated  to  be  an 
agreeable  and  economical  residence.  \  In 
one  respect  Bologna  labours  under  dis- 
advantages from  the  inadequate  sup- 
ply of  water  in  the  houses,  which 
renders  the  construction  of  certain 
conveniences  difficult. 

The  Bolognese  dialect,  of  all  the 
forms  of  Italian  which  the  traveller  will 
meet  with,  is  most  puzzling.  It  was 
aptly  described  by  the  learned  gram- 
marian of  the  16th  centy.,  Aulus  Gellius 
Parrhasius,  as  the  raucida  Bononensium 
loquacitas,  Forsyth  says,  "  with  all  the 
learning  in  its  bosom,  Bologna  has  suf- 
fered its  dialect,  that  dialect  which 
Dante  admired  as  the  purest  of  Italy, 
to  degenerate  into  a  coarse,  thick,  trun- 
cated jargon,  full  of  apocope,  and  unin- 
telligible to  strangers." 

In  regard  to  the  character  of  the 
Bolognese,  we  may  refer  to  the  well- 
known  description  by  Tassoni : 

*•  n  Bolognese  e  un  popol  del  demonic 
Che  non  si  puo  frenar  con  alcxm  freno." 

This  character,  at  first  sight  so  for- 
midable, would  seem  to  refer  to  the 
independent  spirit,  and  to  the  love  of 
political  freedom  imbibed  from  their 
ancient  republican  institutions.  It  has 
been  a  fashion  with  many  passing 
tourists  of  our  own  time  to  depreciate 


RoMAGXA.  Route  61, -^Bologna — Flan  for  Visiting. 


531 


the  Bolognese  ;  but  the  calumny,  if 
there  ever  were  any  foundation  for  it, 
applies  no  longer;  and  in  education, 
ill  character,  and  in  the  arts  of  civi- 
lisation, Bologna  stands  prominently 
jforward  amongst  European  cities,  as 
its  inhabitants  do  amongst  the  bravest, 
most  patriotic  and  public-spirited  of 
united  Italy. 

Travellers  going  from  Bologna  to 
Venice  will  find  a  conveyance  in  cor- 
respondence with  the  Ferrara  Railway, 
-which  leaves  Santa  Maria  Maddalena 
every  morning  at  10,  employing  7  hrs. 
to  Padua,  arriving  seldom  before  the 
departure  of  the  4*  30  p.m.  for  Venice ; 
but  always  before  that  of  9*8  p.m., 
vrhich  reaches  Venice  at  10*28  p.m.; 
and  private  carriages  can  always  be 
procured  at   fares  varying  from  40  to 
60  frs.,  according  to  the  number  of 
persons    (see    p.    424).      As    many 
persons,  after    visiting    Venice,  pro- 
ceed to  Milan  or  Turin,  they  will  do 
well  to  send  on  their  heavy  luggage 
by  rail  to  either  of  these  places,  by 
which  they  will  avoid  much  trouble 
and  worry  by  three  examinations  of 
the  Custom  House  officers  at  Ponte  di 
Lago  Scuro,  on  leaving  Venice,  and  at 
the  Italian  frontier  town  of  Desenzano. 
In   addition  to  the  great  comfort  of 
having  few  impedimenta,  there  will  be  a 
saving  of  money  by  adopting  this  plan, 
the  charges  for  carriage  by  rly.  being 
moderate.    Travellers  going  into  the 
Tyrol  from  Bologna  will  find  it  more 
convenient  to  proceed  to  Parma  by  rly., 
from  which  a  diligence  starts  for  Man- 
tua every  morning,  arriving  in  time  for 
the  trains  to  Venice,  the  Lake  of  Garda, 
and  Bolzano.  The  easiest  mode  of  reach- 
ing Ravenna  from  Bologna  (see  lites. 
67  and  69a)  will  be  by  rly.   Bj  leaving 
Bologna  by  the  early  a.m.  tram  at  7*5, 
Ravenna  will  be  reached  at  10  a.m. 

Travellers  who  are  desirous  of  pro- 
ceeding from  Bologna  to  Rome,  without 
passing  through  Florence,  must  pro- 
ceed by  rail  to  Pistoia,  whence  trains 
start,  upon  the  arrival  of  those  from 
Bologna,  for  Pisa  and  Leghorn ;  or 
can  follow  the  rly.  along  the  Adriatic  to 
Ancona  and  Macerata :  from  the  latter, 
or  from  Fano  by  Fossombrone,  good 
roads  traverse  the  Apennines  to   Fo- 


ligno  (Rtes.  88  and  89),  from  which 
the  rly.  is  now  open,  as  it  will  be  in 
a  few  months  the  whole  way  from  Casa 
Brucciate,  near  Ancona,  to  Rome. 


Plan  for  visiting ^  in  topographical  order , 
everything  most  worthy  of  notice  at  Bo^ 
logna  in  3  days* 

\st  day. — Piazza  and  Fontana  di  Net- 
tuno ;  Palazzo  Fubblico ;  Ch.  of  San 
Petronio;  Fal,  del  Podesta;  Portico 
del  Favaglione ;  Archiginnasio  and  Biblio- 
teca ;  Ch.  of  iS'.  Maria  deUa  Vita ;  Chs.  of 
San  Domenico,  of  Santa  Lucia ;  Pal. 
Ranuzzi;  Chs.  of  San  Giovanni  in 
Monte,  of  San  Stefano;  Pal,  de* 
Bianchi;  Pal,  Pepoli;  Ch.  of  S,  Maria 
de*  Servi ;  Fal,  Sampieri ;  Ch.  of 
San  Bartolommeo  in  Raveonana; 
Torre  degl*  Asinelli  ;  Chs.  of  San 
Vitale  axid  I Mendicanti ;  Pal.  Fantuzzi ; 
Via  di  San  Donato  ;  Pal.  Malvezzi,  Mhl- 
vasia,  &c. ;  Ch.  of  S.  Giacomo  Mag- 
giore  ;  Oratory  of  Santa  Cecilia  ;  Uni- 
versity ;    Great  Theatre, 

2nd  day. — Cathedral  ;  Ch.  of  Ma' 
donna  di  Galliera ;  Fal,  Fava  ;  Chs.  of 
San  Giorgio  and  San  Afartino ;  Fal,  Al' 
drovandi;  Ch.  of  S,  Bartolommeo  in 
Reno;  House  of  Galvani ;  Arena;  Ch. 
of  San  Benedetto;  Montagnola;  Pal. 
Bentivoglio ;  Acjcademia  delle  Belle 
Arti  and  Collections  ;  Pinacoteca  ; 
Botanic  Garden  ;  Collections  and  Library 
at  the  Unrcersity ;  Drive  in  the  after- 
noon to  the  Certosa  and  Campo 
Santo,  by  the  Porta  Sant'  Isaia,  re- 
turning by  that  of  Sta.  Felice,  Chs.  of 
San  Francesco-  and  S,  Salvatore ;  Pal, 
Marescalchi,  Zambeccari,  and  Bevilacqua 
Vincenzi;  Chs,  of  S.  Paolo,  La  Santa, 
and  San  Procolo  ;  Porta  San  Mamolo  ; 
Chs.  of  VAnnunziata  and  Misericordia ; 
S.  MiCHELE  IN  Bosco;  Villa  Aldini: 
Porta  di  Saragozza,  and  excursion  to 
the  Ch.  of  the  Madonna  di  S.  Luca, 
returning  by  the  Via  di  Saragozza, 
Fal.  Albergati,  and  Collegio  di  Spagna, 


632 


Moute  62. — Bologna  to  Floreruie,  Sect.  Vll. 


ROUTE  62. 

BOLOGNA    TO    FLORENCE,    BY     PIETRA- 
MALA  AND  THE  PASS  OF  LA  FITTA. 

MILES. 
12 
12 
8 
8 
8 
8 
8 
8 


Bologna  to  Plonoro  .  . 
Ranoro  to  Lojano  .  .  . 
Lojano  to  Fillgare .  .  . 
Filigare  to  Covlgliajo  .  . 
Ck)vlgli^o  to  Monte  CarelU 
Monte  Oarelll  to  Cafaf^iolo 
Caiaggiolo  to  Fontcbuona 
Foutebuona  to  Florence  . 


72 


The  road  from  Bologna  to  Florence 
crosses  the  central  chain  of  the  Apen- 
nines. It  is  in  general  in  good  repair, 
but  in  many  places  the  ascents  are  so 
rapid  that,  in  addition  to  the  ordinary 
extra  horses,  oxen  are  required.  The 
time  occupied  in  performing  the  journey 
is  from  18  to  20  hours  by  vetturino. 
There  are  no  longer  post-horse  stations 
on  it.  This  route  is  now  little  used  by 
travellers,  since  the  rly.  has  been  opened 
to  Pistoja.  The  scenery  of  this  part  of 
the  Apennines  is  often  picturesque, 
but  they  want  the  grandeur  and  bold* 
ness  of  the  Alps. 

Leaving  Bologna,  the  road  soon 
enters  the  valley  of  the  Savena,  which 
it  crosses  at  S.  Rufillo,  rising  very 
gradually  along  the  rt.  bank  of  the 
river,  through  a  fertile  district,  and 
passing  by  the  villages  of  Kastigniano 
and  Musiano  to 

\\  FianorOy  situated  close  to  the 
Savena,  which  the  road  quits  here, 
and  from  whence  the  ascent  of  the 
Apennines  may  be  said  to  commence. 
From  here  to  Lojano  additional  horses 
are  required,  with  oxen  for  the  very 
steep  ascents.  Between  this  and  the 
next  station  the  road  offers  several 
fine  points  of  view  over  the  plains  of 
Bologna  and  the  valley  of  the  Po. 

1 J  L(yano»    From  this  elevated  spot 


the  view  is  very  striking  and  extensive ; 
the  eye  ranges  along  the  chain  of  dis- 
tant Alps,  embracing  the  vast  plain  of 
the  Po  to  the  Adriatic,  Mantua,  Verona, 
Padua,  Bologna.  The  papal  frontier, 
before  the  annexation  of  the  Emilian 
Provinces  to  the  kingdom  of  Italy, 
was  at  La  Ca. 

\  Filigare,  3  m.  further  on  is  Pieira' 
mala.  This  upper  portion  of  the  Pass  is 
much  exposed  to  storms,  and  is  bitterly 
cold  in  winter.  About  1^  m.  E.  of 
Pietramala  is  a  singular  phenomenon, 
called  "i  Fuochi,"  which  deserves  a 
visit.  It  occurs  at  the  base  of  the  Monte 
di  Fo,  in  a  very  limited  space,  and  con- 
sists of  emanations  of  inflammable  gas, 
which  being  ignited  present  at  first 
something  of  a  volcanic  appearance. 
The  flames  rise  about  a  foot  from  the 
ground,  and  to  be  seen  to  advantage 
must  be  visited  by  night:  they  bum 
most  brightly  and  rise  to  a  greater  ele- 
vation in  rainy  or  stormy  weather,  owing 
probably  to  the  diminished  atmospheric 
pressure.  Round  the  orifices  from 
which  the  gas  issues,  a  carbonaceous 
deposit  like  soot  is  formed,  as  occurs 
in  the  ordinary  gas-burners  of  our 
houses.  Volta,  who  was  the  first  to 
investigate  these  phenomena,  very 
properly  attributed  these  flames  to 
emanations  of  carburetted  hydrogen 
(coal-gas)  from  the  subjacent  arena- 
ceous rock,  which  here,  as  elsewhere, 
contains  vegetable  remains,  from  the  de- 
composition of  which  this  gas  is  probably 
derived.  Similar  phenomena  are  met 
with  in  other  parts  of  the  Apennines, 
and  from  the  same  causes — atBarigazzo, 
La  Porretta,  &c.  (see  Rte,  63).  The 
flames  vary  in  colour,  from  blue  to 
yellow,  according  to  the  light  in 
which,  and  the  time  of  the  day  when 
they  are  seen,  and  emit  an  oaour  of 
burning  spirits  of  wine.  The  Acqua 
Buja,  1  m.  to  the  W.  of  Pietramala, 
is  a  similar  phenomenon,  but  here  the  in- 
flammable gas,  passing  through  water, 
only  becomes  ignited  on  the  approach 
of  a  light  to  the  bubbles  as  they  reach 
the  surface. 

From  Pietramala  a  gradual  ascent  of 
3  m.,  at  the  base  of  the  Peaks  of  Monte 
Beni  and  Sasso  di  Castro,  leads  to 
Covigliajo.      The  geologist    will  find 


EoMAGNA.      Houte  62. — Bologna  to  Florence — Pratolino, 


633 


much  to  interest  him  in  this  part  of 
the  route — the  above-named  mountains, 
which  attain  respectively  elevations  of 
4080  and  4135  English  feet  above  the 
sea,  being  formed  of  serpentine,  which 
has  .broken  through  the  subjacent  stra- 
tified rocks  of  the  cretaceous  formation. 
1  Comgliajo,  at  the  foot  of  Monte 
Beni,  a  solitary  inn,  which  had 
in  former  days  a  bad  reputation,  but 
which  is  now  a  very  comfortable  inn, 
much  more  so  indeed  than  the  traveller 
has  a  right  to  expect  in  such  a  situa- 
tion ;  from  its  great  elevation  the  cli- 
mate is  very  cold,  and  warm  clothing 
is  at  all  seasons  advisable  on  this 
journey.  A  further  ascent  of  4  m. 
brings  us  to  the  stunmit  of  the  Pass  of 
la  Futa,  the  highest  point  of  the  road 
between  Bologna  and  Florence,  2987 
feet  above  the  sea.  From  this  pass, 
which  in  the  winter  season  is  at  times 
impassable  from  accumulations  of  snow, 
a  rapid  but  well-managed  descent  leads 
to 

1  Monte  Carelli,  The  road  now 
runs  on  the  summit  of  a  spur  of 
the  Apennines,  before  descending  into 
the  valley  of  the  Sieve,  which  is 
so  celebrated  in  the  history  of  the 
middle  ages  and  in  Italian  poetry, 
under  the  general  name  of  Val  di  Mu- 
gello.  Here  a  road  on  the  rt.  leads  to 
Barberino,  and  thence  to  Prato  and 
Pistoja.  On  approaching  the  valley 
of  the  Sieve,  about  3  m.  from  Cafag- 
giolo  is  Le  Maschere.  "  It  overlooks  the 
brow  of  a  mountain  which,  although 
covered  with  trees,  is  almost  perpen- 
dicular ;  while  on  the  plain  far  below  lies 
the  beautiful  vale  of  Arno,  bounded  by 
a  circle  of  magnificent  hills,  sometimes 
rising  in  acclivities,  sometimes  in 
polished  knolls  or  bold  promontories, 
cultivated  to  the  very  summit  with  the 
vine  and  olive,  interspersed  with  fruit 
and  forest  trees,  and  thickly  studded 
with  villas,  convents,  and  churches, 
presenting  an  aspect  of  extraordinary 
animation  and  beauty.  Turning  from 
the  contemplation  of  this  rich,  lively, 
and  cultivated  landscape,  to  the  bold 
country  spread  abroad  among  the 
Apennines  behind  the  Maschere,  you 
behold  a  prospect   finely  contrastbig 


nature  in  all  its  most  polished  splendour 
with  the  wild  and  majestic  grandeur  of 
mountain  scenery." — John  Ml, 

1  Caffaggiolo,  on  the  rt.  bank  of 
the  Sieve.  A  short  distance  beyond 
it  the  old  road  from  Bologna  to 
Florence  through  Firenzuola  and  Scar- 
peria  falls  into  this  route.  About 
midway  between  this  and  the  next 
station  we  pass  the  village  of  Va- 
glia,  on  the  Carza  torrent,  whose  left 
bank  the  road  follows  to  Fontebuona. 
On  an  eminence  on  the  1.,  surrounded 
by  cypress  plantations,  is  seen  the 
Servite  convent  of  Monte  Senario, 
which  forms  so  remarkable  an  object 
in  the  landscape  N.  of  Florence. 

1  Fontebuona.  The  ascent  on  leaving 
is  very  steep.  A  short  distance  beyond 
Fontebuona  on  the  1.  is  Pratolinoy  once 
a  favourite  seat  of  the  Grand  Dukes 
of  Tuscany,  situated  on  the  southern 
slopes  of  a  hill,  embosomed  in  fine 
trees.  .  The  beautiful  villa,  designed 
by  Buontalenti,  for  Francesco  de'  Me- 
dici, son  of  Cosimo  I.,  to  receive 
Bianca  Capello,  has  long  been  demo- 
lished. The  money  lavished  upon  its 
decorations,  its  giuochi  (facqua,  &;c., 
amounted  to  no  less  a  sum  than 
782,000  crowns,  an  expenditure  upon 
which  the  Grand  Duke  Ferdinand  II. 
gave  an  expressive  commentary  when 
he  said  that  the  money  there  wasted 
would  have  built  a  hundred  hospitals. 
Besides  the  grottoes,  fountains,  and 
labyrinths  of  PratoUno,  there  is  a 
colossal  monster,  called  the  Statue  of 
the  Apennines,  60  feet  in  height.  The 
artist's  name  is  unknown.  The  beauties 
of  Pratolino  and  of  Bianca  are  fre- 
quently celebrated  by  Tasso : — 

"  Dianzi  all'  ombra  di  fama  occulta  e  bnina, 
Quasi  giacesti,  Pratolino,  ascoso ; 
Or  la  tua  donna  tanto  onoT  t'  axunge, 
Che  piega  alia  seconda  alia  fortuna 
Gli  antichi  gioghi  1'  Apennin  nevoso; 
Ed  Atlante,  ed  Olimpo,  ancor  si  lungo, 
N^  confin  la  tua  gloria  asconde  e  serra ; 
Ma  del  tuo  picclol  nome  empi  la  terra." 

Bime,  360. 

The  rapid  descent  hence  to  Flo- 
rence, along  an  excellent  road,  is  one 
of  the  most  interesting  drives  in 
Europe.    Every  eminence  is  studded 


534 


JRoute  63. — Bologna  to  Florence. 


Sect.  VH. 


with  villas ;  the  country,  rich  in  vine- 
yards and  olive-groves,  seems  literally 
**  a  land  of  oil  and  wine ;"  cultivation 
appeal's  in  its  highest  perfection;  the 
Etruscan  fortress  of  Fiesole,  consecrated 
by  the  genius  of  Milton,  with  its  Arx 
now  occupied  by  the  Franciscan  Con- 
vent, rises  magnificently  over  the 
opposite  bank  of  the  Mugnone ;  and 
Florence,  with  its  domes,  campaniles, 
and  battlemented  towers,  bursts  upon 
the  view.  This  approach  recalls 
the  remark  of  Ariosto,  that  if  all  the 
villas  which  are  scattered  as  if  the 
soil  produced  them  over  the  hills  of 
the  Val  d'Arno  were  collected  within 
one  wall,  two  Homes  could  not  vie  with 
Florence. 

"  A  veder  picn  di  tante  ville  i  colli, 
Per  che'l  lerren  vele  germogU,  come 
Yermcne  germogliar  Buole,  e  rampolli. 

Se  dentro  un  mur,  sotto  un  medesmo  nome 
Fosser  raccolti  i  tuoi  palazzi  sparsi, 
Non  ti  sarian  da  paregglar  due  Kome." 

Rime,  cap.  xvi. 

Florence  is  entered  by  the  Porta  di 
San  Gallo. 


KOUTE  63. 

BOLOGNA  TO  FLORENCE,  BY  LA  POR- 
BETTA. — RAIL. 

KIL. 

Bologna  to  Borgo  de  Panlcale  .     .  7 

Casalecchio' 10 

II  Sasso 19 

Marzobotlo 27 

Vergato 39 

Riola 47 

LaPorretta 69 

I^accbia 73 

Plteccio 87 

Pistoia       '. 29 

Prato 114 

Florence 138 

132kiL  =  82m. 


This  rly.  forms  the  most  direct  route 
between  Bologna  and  Florence ;  and  by 
it  travellers  can  easily  reach  the  Tuscan 
capital  in  5^  hours. 

Leaving  Bologna,  the  riy-.  soon  after- 
wards crosses  the  Reno,  and  then,  assum- 
ing a  more  southerly  direction,  follows 
parallel  to  its  1.  bank,  passing  by 

7  kil.  Borgo  di  Panicale  Stat.,  on  the 
plain. 

3  Casalecchio  Stat.  [The  village  and 
bridge  of  Casalecchio  are  at  some  dis- 
tance on  the  1.  Casalecchio  was  the 
scene  of  the  battle  in  which  Giovanni 
Bentivoglio  was  defeated  by  the  arnay  of 
Gian  Galeazzo,  on  June  26,  1402.  The 
allied  army  of  Florence  and  Bologna, 
under  Bentivoglio  and  Bernardo  de 
Serres,  had  encamped  at  Casalecchio, 
contrary  to  the  judgment  of  the  latter 
general,  who  was  anxious  to  have  re- 
tired within  the  walls  of  the  city. 
While  they  were  waiting  for  reinforce- 
ments from  Florence,  the  Milanese, 
under  Alberigo  da  Barbiano,  gave  them 
battle.  The  Bolognese  troops,  weary  of 
the  tyranny  of  Bentivoglio,  refused  to 
fight;  Bernardo  de  Serres  was  taken 
prisoner;  the  inhabitants,  encouraged 
by  the  faithless  promises  made  by  Gian 
Galeazzo  that  he  would  restore  their  re- 
public, opened  the  gates  to  the  Milanese, 
and  2  days  afterwards  Bentivoglio  was 
murdered  by  order  of  Barbiano.  In 
1511  Casalecchio  was  the  scene  of  the 
victory  gained  by  the  Sieur  de  Chau- 
mont,  general  of  Louis  XII.,  over  the 
troops  of  Julius  II.,  commanded  by  F. 
M.  della  Rovere,  Duke  of  Urbino.  It 
was  fought  on  the  21st  of  May,  and 
was  called  the  "  day  of  the  ass-drivers," 
because  the  French  knights  returned 
driving  asses  laden  with  their  booty.] 

From  Casalecchio  the  rly.  may  be 
said  to  enter  the  valley  of  the  Reno, 
and  runs  along  the  base  of  the  low  hills 
that  border  it  on  the  W.  to 

10  kil.  Sasso  Stat.  Sasso,  a  village 
situated  on  a  height  above  the  river. 
During  the  trajet  between  Casalecchio 
and  Sasso,  the  geologist  will  have  an  op- 
portunity of  observing  some  good  super* 
positions  of  the  molasse  or  sands  of  the 
Pliocene  formation  on  the  blue  sub-Ap- 
penine  marls.  The  rly.  cuts  through 
these  sands  close  to  the  river  in  the  nar- 


KOMAQNA. 


Route  63. — La  PoiTetta, 


635 


row  defile  of  II  Sasso,  at  the  base  of  a 
deep  cliff  overhanging  the  torrent.  Im- 
mediately beyond  the  valley  widens ;  a 
broad  torrent,  the  Setta,  here  nearly 
equal  in  size  to  the  Reno,  joins  the  latter 
from  the  S.  Following  the  I.  bank  of 
the  Reno,  the  road  crosses  several  ra- 
•vines,  which,  being  excavated  in  the 
tertiary  marls,  offer  some  disagreeable 
passes  in  the  rainy  season  -,  there  are 
some  deep  cuttings  and  a  short  tunnel 
before  reaching 

7  kil.  Marzobotto  Stat.,  near  which 
on  rt.  is  the  hamlet,  and  a  series  of 
very  neat  farm-buildings,  in  the  midst 
of  meadow-lands;  above  which  is  a 
large  villa  belonging  to  the  Aria  family, 
where  are  preserved  several  Etruscan 
objects  of  antiquity  discovered  in  an 
ancient  necropolis  at  Misano,  between 
the  villa  and  the  river.  There  are  four 
tunnels,  and  some  remarkably  good 
specimens  of  bridges  over  the  lateral 
torrents,  and  embankments  along  the 
rt.  bank  of  the  Reno,  before  reaching 

12  kil.  Ver,jato  Stat.  Vergato,  a  vil- 
lage of  700  Inhab.  near  the  Reno  ;  on 
leaving  it,  a  rapid,  and  in  the  winter 
season  a  dangerous,  torrent,  the  Verga- 
tello,  is  crossed.  The  appearance  of 
the  country  changes ;  the  valley  of  the 
Reno,  hitherto  enclosed  between  pre- 
cipitous mountains,  now  widens;  the 
hills  on  either  side  becoming  rounded 
and  less  precipitous  —  a  circumstance 
arising  from  the  change  in  the  geologi- 
cal nature  of  the  soil,  from  the  tertiaiy 
marls  and  sandstones  to  the  calcareous 
rocks  of  the  cretaceous  or  eocenic  period. 

5  m.  beyond  Vergato  is  Biola  Stat.,  at 
the  end  of  a  tunnel  1580  yards  long, 
opposite  which,  and  on  the  other  side 
of  the  Reno,  rise  the  rugged  peaks  of 
Monte  Ovolo  and  Monte  Vigese ;  at  the 
foot  of  the  latter  the  village  of  Vigo 
•was  overwhelmed,  in  1851,  by  a  terrific 
landslip.  Continuing  along  the  1.  bank 
of  the  river,  the  recently  restored  castle 
of  Savignano  is  a  picturesque  object, 
in  the  angle  formed  by  the  junction  of 
the  Reno  and  Limentra  on  the  1. ;  from 
there,  crossing  the  Reno  and  pene- 
trating a  spur  of  hills  by  the  great 
tunnel  of  Casale  2858  yds.  or  1^  m. 
long,  the  traveller  discovers  another 
reach  of  the  Reno,  at  the  head  of  which 


the  village  of  Porretta  is  seen  in  the  dis- 
tance. This  part  of  the  valley  forms  a 
picturesque  amphitheatre  surrounded 
by  verdant  hills,  on  the  summit  of 
which  are  seen,  on  the  rt.,  ruins  of 
some  mediseval  towers.  2  m.  before 
reaching  Porretta  the  Sella  torrent  is 
crossed  on  a  new  and  handsome  bridge, 
one  of  the  finest  works  of  art  upon  the 
whole  line  of  this  carriage-road,  from 
Vergato  to  la  Porretta  the  rly.  runs 
constantly  close  to  the  river,  which 
has  necessitated  an  almost  continuous 
line  of  embankments.  It  crosses  the 
Reno  before  arriving  at  the  station, 
from  which  a  handsome  bridge  leads  to 

La  Porrefia,  a  village  of  1010  Inhab., 
celebrated  for  its  mineral  waters  and 
baths,  which  are  much  frequented  in  the 
summer  months.  There  are  several  inns 
and  lodging-houses;  that  which  appears 
to  be  most  convenient  for  travellers  is 
the  Locanda  Nova  d*  Italia,  kept  by 
Gennasi ;  there  is  a  second  during  the 
bathing  season,  il  Palazzino.  The 
bathing  season  is  during  the  months 
of  June,  July,  and  August. 

The  waters  of  La  Porretta  have  long 
been  celebrated  for  their  medicinal  qua- 
lities, and  are  much  resorted  to  from 
June  to  September ;  they  issue  from  the 
sandstone-rock  of  the  cretaceous  period, 
and  reach  the  surface  at  temperatures 
varying,  according  to  the  springs,  from 
89°  to  101°  Fahr. ;  they  contain  a  vari- 
able portion  of  sulphuretted  hydrogen 
and  carbonic  acid  gases,  and  m  some 
localities  so  large  a  quantity  of  carbu- 
retted  hydrogen  as  to  make  its  collec- 
tion profitable  for  lighting  purposes. 
Strange  to  say,  in  this  remote  district 
of  the  Apennines,  this  application  of 
natural  gas  was  first  made  by  an  inge- 
nious shoemaker,  named  Spiga;  since 
which  a  part  of  the  village  is  lighted 
by  a  lamp  supplied  by  it.  Besides 
these  gaseous  contents,  the  waters  of 
La  Porretta  contain  muriate,  bromate, 
and  carbonate  of  soda,  and  a  peculiar 
pseudo-organic  matter ;  they  are  used 
both  in  the  form  of  baths  and  in- 
ternally, and  are  considered  to  be  very 
efficacious  in  chronic  glandular  ob- 
structions, in  rheumatism,  paralysis, 
and  nervous  affections  generally. 


636 


HotUe  63. — La  Porretta  to  Florence* 


Sect,  vn 


Daring  the  heats  of  summer,  La  Por- 
retta, from  its  elevation  above  the  sea 
(1130  English  feet),  is  cool ;  the  situa- 
tion is  considered  healthy;  fevers,  which 
exist  lower  down  the  valley  of  the 
Keno,  are  unknown  here. 

The  Monte  Cardo,  which  rises  be- 
hind the  village,  offers  several  emana- 
tions of  carburetted  hydrogen  from  the 
fissures  in  the  sandstone,  which  ignite 
on  the  approach  of  a  light.  They  are 
entirely  similar  to  those  of  Pietramala 
and  Barigazzo.    (See  Rte.  62.) 

Leaving  La  Porretta,  the  railway 
passes  through  'a  short  tunnel.  The 
mineral  spring,  called  La  Porretta 
Vecchia,  is  situated  in  this  defile,  and 
is  principally  resorted  to  by  drinkers, 
the  temperature  being  89°.  Having 
passed  this,  the  valley  expands ;  woods 
of  oaks  clothe  the  sides  of  the  hills, 
the  line  ascending  more  rapidly  than 
it  has  hitherto  done,  and  Ijb  Capanne, 
formerly  the  Papal  frontier  station,  is 
soon  reached.  The  Reno,  which  is 
crossed  by  a  bridge,  the  Ponte  dell  a 
Venturina,  formed  here  the  boundary 
between  Tuscany  and  the  States  of  the 
Church. 

Beyond  the  Ponte  dell  a  Venturina  the 
rly.  enters  the  upper  valley  of  the  Reno, 
a  narrow  gorge  of  10  m.,  during  which 
it  penetrates  through  13  short  tunnels, 
crossing  several  times  the  torrent. 
The  longest  of  these  is  La  Gal- 
leria  del  Balone.  At  8J  m.  from  La 
Porretta  we  emerge  into  a  kind  of 
amphitheatre  of  hills,  in  which  the 
station  of  Fracchia  is  situated  ;  the 
highest  point  of  the  line  is  2025  Eng- 
lish feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea 
— during  the  journey  from  Bologna 
having  penetrated  through  23  tunnels 
of  a  total  length  exceeding  5  miles, 
and  crossed  the  Reno  19  times. 

On  leaving  the  Pracchia  Stat.,  where 
there  is  a  very  fair  buffet,  commences 
the  great  tunnel  through  the  central 
ridge  of  the  Apennines :  it  is  2980  yds., 
or  nearly  If  m.,  in  length,  debouching 
at  its  S.  extremity  upon  a  viaduct  on 
the  E.  declivity  of  the  valley  of  the 
Ombrone,  and  from  which  there  is  a 
descent  of  1820  ft.  to  the  plain  at  Pis- 
toia.  Along  this  declivity  the  rly.  is 
carried  by  3  long  curves,  penetrates 


through  18  tunnels,  and  crosses  several 
viaducts,  the  longest  of  the  tunnels  be- 
ing that  of 

14  kil.  Fiteccio  Stat.  (1162  yds.> 
Near  here  is  one  of  the  finest  works 
of  engineering  on  the  line — the  viar 
duct  of  Piteccio,  of  18  arches  in  3 
ranges.  2  m.  before  reaching  Pistoia, 
after  crossing  the  fine  viaduct  of  Var 
joni  and  its  tunnel,  the  rly.  passes 
between  2  hills ;  upon  that  on  the  rt 
is  a  lofty  modern  tower,  on  the  sup- 
posed site  of  the  defeat  of  Catiline 
(B.C.  60) ;  we  here  enter  the  plain  of 
the  Ombrone,  and  then  skirt  the 
mediaeval  walls  of  the  city  before 
reaching  the 

}2  kil  Fistoia  Stat.  (/n»;  Hotel  de 
Londres,  near  the  stat.  and  the  gate  of 
the  town).  See  Handbook  of  Central 
Italy,  Rte.  77. 

[The  following  description   of  the 
carriage-road    from    La    Porretta    to 
Pistoia  may  be  useful  to  persons  tra- 
velling b^  vetturino.     It  formed,  until 
the  opening  of  the  railway,  the  most 
frequented  route  between  Bologna  and 
Florence.    From  the  Ponte  deUa  Ven- 
turina the  road  strikes  off  to  the  L, 
ascending  the  valley  of  la  Limentra. 
The  ascent  of  the  Apennines  may  be 
said  to  commence  from  here,  although, 
for  the  first  2  m.,  it  is  very  gradual 
along  the  Limentra;   the  road  enters 
a  deep,  narrow  ravine,   and   for    the 
next  5  m.  ascends  continually,  cross* 
ing  the  river   several   times,  but   so 
excellently  constructed  is  it,   and   in 
such  good  repair,  that  it  is  easily  sur- 
mounted.   About  7  m.  from  La  Porretta 
the  torrent  divides  into  2  branches; 
at  the  point  of  junction  is  seen,   be- 
low the  road,  Lo  Spedaleto,  formerly 
an  hospice  for  travellers  crossing  this 
part  of  tiie  Apennines.    An  extremely 
well-managed  ascent  of  about  2  m.  leads 
from  this  point  to  the  Collina  Pass,  a 
low  saddleback  over  the  central  chain 
of  the  Apennines.     On  the  summit  of 
the  pass  is  a  large  inn.    The  most  ele- 
vated point  of  the  Via  Leopolda,  as  this 
part  of  the  road  is  called,  at  the  Collina 
Pass,   is  3350  English  feet  above  the 
sea. 
The  view  from  the  Collina  Pass^  or. 


.HOMAGNA. 


Bouie  63. — La  Porretta  to  Ihrence. 


637 


l^etter  still,  from  a  point  a  few  hundred 
yards  lower  down,  is  perhaps  as  fine  as 
from  any  place  in  the  Apennines,  and 
'will  well  repay  a  short  delay  on  the 
part  of  the  traveller.  Looking  towards 
the  S.  and  Pistoja,  you  have  on  the  rt. 
the  highest  peaks  of  the  Modenese  and 
Xfucca  mountains,  generally  covered 
with  snow ;  the  serrated  pinnacles 
about  the  Cisa  and  Abetone  passes 
(see  Rtes.  43  and  51)  ;  the  mountains 
of  La  Pania ; — ^to  the  S.W.  the  Lakes 
of  Fuceccbio  and  Bientina  and  the 
Pisan  group  of  hills,  with  the  upper 
Talley  of  the  Ombrone  in  the  fore, 
the  valley  of  the  Amo  beyond,  and 
the  distant  hills  S.  of  the  Amo  in 
the  background ; — the  whole  valley  of 
the  Ombrone,  with  Pistoja  in  the  centre, 
and  the  chain  of  hills  which  separate  it 
from  the  Val  d'Amo  Inferiore  and  the 
plains  of  Pisa  on  one  side ; — whilst  the 
Val  d'Arno,  extending  to  Florence,  and 
the  Apennines  of  Valombrosa,  close  the 
view  to  the  E.  "I  seldom  have  witnessed 
a  grander  panorama  of  Italian  scenery 
than  from  the  Collina  Pass  on  a  fine 
clear  November's  evening.** 

About  1  m.  to  the  rt.  of  the  pass 
of  La  Collina  is  seen  the  still  lower  pass 
of  Pracchia,  one  of  the  lowest  in  the 
central  chain  of  the  Apennines,  under 
which  the  rly.  penetrates  by  a  long 
tunnel,  nearly  completed. 

A  rapid  and  well-managed  descent  of 
6  m.,  by  a  series  of  zigzags,  leads  into 
the  plain  of  the  Ombrone,  passing 
rapidly  through  every  zone  of  Italian 
vegetation,  from  pasturage  and  pines, 
through  woods  of  oaks  to  chesnut- 
trees,  mingled  with  Spanish  broom, 
and  then  through  vineyards  to  olive- 
groves,  which  are  here  first  met  with  by 
the  traveller  arriving  from  Northern 
Italy.  From  the  foot  of  the  descent, 
above  which  is  seen  &  picturesque 
modern  tower,  supposed  to  mark  the  site 
of  Catiline's  defeat  (b.c.  60),  a  level 
road  of  2  m.,  through  neat  farm-houses 
and  villas,  leads  to  the  gates  of  Pistoja ; 
i  m.  before  reaching  which,  are  passed 
on  the  1.  the  handsome  grounds  of  the 
Villa  Puccini.] 

Railway  trains  from  Pistoja  to  Flo- 
rence start  4  times  a  day,  by  the  Maria 


Antonia  Railway,  periHrming  the  jour- 
ney in  li  hour.  The  stations  are, 
reckoning  the  distances  from  Pistoja — 

Pistoja  to  San  Piero     ...  8  kll. 

Prato 16 

Calenzano 25 

Sesto 21 

Gastello 26 

Rlflfredl 29 

Florence       34 

For  a  description  of  this  part  of  the 
route  see  Handbook  for  Central  Italy, 
Rte.  77. 

1  Florence  ;  described  in  Handbook 
for  Central  Italy  (Rte.  80).  —  Hotels: 
Baldi's  Hdtel  de  Tltalie  on  the  Lungo 
Amo,  good  but  expensive.  U6tel  de 
TEurope,  clean^  comfortable,  quiet, 
and  moderate  as  to  charees,  with  a 
good  table-d*h6te — the  landlord  speaks 
English;  Hotel  du  Nord;  both  these 
hotels  are  in  the  Piazza  di  Santa  Tri- 
nita,  the  most  central  situation  in  the 
city,  and  close  to  the  Diligence  Offices, 
reading-room,  club,  and  Lungo  Amo, 
&c.,  cool  in  the  spring  and  summer. 
Hotels  de  la  Grande  Bretagne  and 
deir  Arno,  on  the  quay,  central.  Hd- 
tel de  la  Ville,  on  the  western  prolonga- 
tion of  the  Lungo  Amo,  very  good. 
Hdtel  de  New  York,  in  the  same  quar- 
ter. Hotel  de  Florence,  in  the  Via  dei 
Cerretani,  new  and  good.  H.  et  Pen- 
sion de  Milan,  also  new,  and  near  the 
latter,  very  well  spoken  of.  H.  de  Rome, 
in  the  Piazza  Santa  Maria  Novella, 
charges  more  moderate.  Hotel  de  la 
Porta  Rossa,  H.  de  la  Pension  Suisse, 
dello  Scudo  di  Francia,  and  della  Luna, 
the  last  four  second-rate,  frequented 
by  commercial  travellers  and  Italian 
families.  The  hotels  on  the  Lungo 
Amo  are  to  be  preferred  during  the 
winter  months  on  account  of  the  sun ; 
they  have,  however,  few  small  apart- 
ments or  bachelors'  rooms  looking  south, 
and  are  inconvenient  in  the  summer 
from  the  heat,  the  exhalations  from  the 
river  and  the  sewers  which  empty  them- 
selves into  it,  and  from  the  greater 
abundance  of  mosquitoes,  at  which 
season  the  Europe,  Florence,  Milan, 
and  Nord  are  perhaps  to  be  preferred. 
Most  of  the  hotels  have  now  good 
I  tables-d'hdte,  and  leave  little  to  be  de- 


538 


EotUe  64. — Faenza  to  Florenoe, 


Sect.  VIL 


sired  as  regards  cleanliness  and  general 
comfort. 


EOUTE  64. 

FAENZA  TO  FLORENCE,  BY  MARRADI  AND 
BORGO  SAN  LORENZO. — 69  m. 

This  road,  which  was  opened  in  1844, 
establishes  a  convenient  communica- 
tion between  Florence  and  Ravenna.  It 
passes  through  a  picturesque  country. 
A.  public  conveyance  3  times  a  week 
in  15  hrs. 

Leaving  Faenza,  it  soon  reaches  the 
foot  of  the  first  sub-Apennine  hills  at 
San  Prospero,  from  whence  it  follows 
the  1.  bank  of  the  Lamone  by  San  Ruf- 
filo  to  Brisighella,  a  picturesque  village 
overlooking  the  plain  of  the  Lamone,  to 

12  m.  Fognano,  an  inconsiderable 
village  on  the  1.  bank  of  the  river,  with 
a  wretched  inn.  The  views  of  the  Apen- 
nines, in  their  lower  elevations,  covered 
with  woods  of  chesnut-trees,  are  very 
pleasing.  The  Lamone,  here  nearly 
dry  during  the  summer  months,  is  an 
impetuous  and  dangerous  torrent  in  the 
i*ainy  season.  Following  its  1.  bank, 
the  road  crosses  it  at  S.  Eufemia ;  and 
7  m.  still  farther  we  arrive  at 

18  m.  Marradi.  Marradi  is  one  of 
those  strange  Italian  villages  often  met 
with  out  of  the  high  roads.  It  contains 
2200  Inhab.  The  Locanda  del  Lamone 
is  indifferent.  The  valley  here  becomes 
very  narrow ;  the  precipices  on  each 
side  merely  allowing  room  for  the 
passage  of  the  river  and  the  road. 

I  m.  beyond  Marradi,  at  a  hamlet 
called  La  JBiforca,  the  Lamone  receives 
the  Compigno  torrent  on  the  1.;  the 
road  continues  along  the  Lamone  for  5 
or  6  m.,  until  it  reaches  Crespino,  for- 
merly the  seat  of  a  suppressed  Val- 
lombrosian  monastery.  Not  far  from  it 
is  the  picturesque  cascade  of  Valbura. 
From  Casaglia  commences  the  ascent 
of  the  central  chain,  which  is  crossed 
at  Casa  di  Alpe  or  Colla  di  Casaglia, 


2980  English  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea.    On  ascending  from  Marradi 
the  chesnut  woods  gradually  disappear; 
the  mountains  become  nearly  bare.     It 
requires  3^  hours  to  reach  the  highest 
part  of  the  pass,  as  it  does  2  more  to 
descend  to  Borgo  San  Lorenzo.     From 
the  pass  of  Casaglia  the  road  descends 
rapidly  along  the  Razotta  torrent  to  Pu- 
liciano  on  the  Elsa,  and  from  thence  to 
20  m.  Sorgo  San  Lorenzo  (^Inns:  Lo- 
canda della  Rivola,  clean  and  civil ;  Lo- 
canda  del  Sole).    Borgo  San  Lorenzo, 
situated  near  the  1.  bank  of  the  river,  is 
the  principal  town  in  the  upper  part  of 
the  valley  of  the  Sieve,  generally  called 
the  Mugello.    It  is  in  a  fertile  plain, 
and  contains  a  population  of  3500  souk 
Its  ch.,  dedicated  to  San  Lorenzo,  is  an 
edifice  of  the  13th  century,  as  appears 
from  an  inscription  beiEU'ing  the  date  of 
1263 ;  the  campanile  is  nearly  a  century 
later.     2  roads  lead  from  Borgo   San 
Lorenzo  to  Florence :  the  first  and  most 
direct,  1 5  m.  up  the  valley  of  the  Fis- 
tona  to  near  its  source,  and  from  thence 
descending  along  the  Mugnone  to  the 
gates  of  the  city.     5  m.  from  Borgo  San 
Lorenzo  the  mountain  of  Monte  Senario 
is  passed  3  m.  on  the  rt.  Before  reaching 
Florence  the  Mugnone  cuts  through '  a 
deep  glen,  having  on  the  1.  the -hill 
on  which  the    Etruscan    arx   of  the 
ancient  Fesulas  stood,  and  the   Monte 
Rinaldi,  celebrated  amongst  the  Tuscan 
architects  for  its  quarries  of  building- 
stone,  on  the  rt    Emerging  from  this 
ravine,  we  cross  the  Ponte  della  Badia» 
so  called  from  the  neighbouring  con- 
vent, founded  by  Cosimo  de  Medicis, 
from  which  the  road  is  bordered  by 
lines  of  farm-houses  and  villas  to  the 
Porta  di  San  Gallo,  before  reaching 
which  it  is  joined  by  the  high  road 
from  Bologna  by  Covigliajo.   (Rte.  62.) 
The  second  route,  from  Borgo  San 
Lorenzo,  although  longer  by  3  m.,  is 
to  be  preferred,   being  less  hilly  and 
more   suited    for  carriages,  following 
the  1.  bank  of  the  Sieve  to  San  Piero, 
a  large  village   in   one  of   the  most 
fertile  districts  of  the   Mugello,  near 
the  juction  of  the  Carza  and  Sieve, 
and,  a  mile  farther,  joining  the  high 
road  from  Bologna  to  Florence  (Rte. 
62),  not  far  from  Caffaggiolo. 


EOMAGtNA. 


Route  65. — Florence  to  ForT%. 


539 


ROUTE  65. 

FLORENCE  TO  FOBLI,  BT  DICOMANO  AND 
THE  PASS  OF  S.  BENEDETTO. 

MILES. 

Florence  to  Pontassieve  by  Railway     .  12* 

Pontassieve  to  Dicomano 10 

Dicomano  to  S.  Benedetto      ....  16 

S.  Benedetto  to  Rocca  S.  Casclano   .     .  12 

,    Bocca  San  Casclano  to  Fori!  ....  16 

66^  miles. 

This  road,  opened  of  late  years  by 
the  Tuscan  government,  for  the  purpose 
of  establishing  a  direct  communication 
across  the  Apennines  between  Florence 
and  the  Romagna,  is  in  good  repair,  and 
constructed  on  the  best  principles  of 
modem  engineering. 

As  there  are  no  post  stations,  the 
only  means  of  travelling  over  this 
route  will  be  by  vetturiuo,  which  will 
require  2  days,  in  which  case  San 
Benedetto  will  be  the  best  halting- 
place  for  the  first  night. 

Leaving  Florence,  we  proceed  along 
the  rt.  bank  of  the  Amo  as  far  as 
Pontassieve,  on  the  road  to  Arezzo, 
where  the  Forli  road  strikes  off  to  the 
N.E.,  and  ascends  the  valley  of  the 
Sieve  as  far  as  Dicomano.  The  scenery 
is  very  fine  in  many  parts,  especially 
for  the  first  10  m.,  when  it  is  repeatedly 
crossed  by  the  line  of  rly.  to  Pon- 
tassieve; but  it  becomes  wild  as  we 
approach  the  lofty  chain  of  Apennines 
over  which  the  road,  is  carried, 

10  m.  Dicomano,  {Inns :  Locanda  Pas- 
serine, and  the  Leone  d'Oro.)     It  is  an 


old  town,  prettily  situated  at  the  junc- 
tion of  the  Sieve  and  Dicomano  torrents, 
but  has  little  beyond  its  position  to 
attract  the  attention  of  a  passing  tra- 
veller. On  leaving  it  the  road  proceeds 
up  the  valley  and  along  the  river  of 
San  Godenzo  to  near  its  source,  where 
extra  horses  are  put  on,  in  order  to 
master  the  ascent,  which  is  extremely 
steep.  The  village  of  San  Godenzo^ 
through  which  the  road  passes,  is 
situated  at  the  southern  base  of  the 
central  chain,  among  wooded  scenery. 
Here  the  ascent  of  the  Apennines,  pro- 
perly speaking,  commences,  but  the 
road  is  admirably  constructed.  The 
descent  is  gradual  and  well  managed  ; 
the  Osteria  Nuova,  2  m.  below  the 
pass,  is  soon  reached,  and  the  road 
shortly  attains  the  banks  of  the  Mon- 
tone,  which  it  follows  to  Forli. 

16  m.  San  Benedetto,  This  place  is 
about  half-way  between  Florence  and 
Forli ;  it  has  a  very  feir  inn,  the 
Leone  d'Oro,  the  best  on  the  road,  and 
it  would  be  the  most  eligible  resting- 
place  for  Jiravellers  in  a  private  carriage. 
Between  this  village  and  Rocca  San 
Casciano  the  road  passes  through  Por- 
tico,  an  old  fortified  town,  with  a 
ruined  castle,  which  once  commanded 
the  road  from  the  Romagna.  There 
are  some  emanations  of  inflammable 
gas,  similar  to  those  at  Pietramala,  near 
the  hamlet  of  Querciolano  on  the  1.  of 
the  road. 

12  m.  Rocca  San  Casciano  {Inn:  the 
Locando  del  Giglio,  tolerable),  a  vil- 
lage of  1600  Inhab.,  on  the  rt.  bank  of 
the  Montone.  It  is  the  most  important 
town  of  the  Tuscan  Romagna;  but 
contains  little  to  detain  the  traveller. 
A  road  has  of  late  years  been  opened 
from  it  across  the  pass  of  Le  Forche  to 
Galeata  and  Santa  Sofia^  in  the  upper 
valley  of  the  Ronco.  Leaving  San 
Casciano,  the  road  continues  along  the 
Montone,  between  Monte  Grosso  ou  the 
rt.  and  Monte  Torcella  on  the  1.  Be- 
fore arriving  at  Dovadola,  a  good  road 
across  the  pass  of  Monte  Trebbio, 
of  10  m.  on  the  1..  leads  to  Modigli- 
and^  a  very  ancient  town  of  3000  Inhab., 
probably  the  Castrum  Mutilum  of  Livy. 


540 


Etes.  66,  67. — Forli  and  Faenza  to  Eavenna.     Sect.  VU. 


n 


Dotaadola  has  an  old  castle  in  ruins. 
(Near  here  commence  the  Miocene 
deposits,  whi^h  are  seen  forming  pre- 
cipices of  almost  horizontal  strata  be- 
hind the  village:  they  rest  on  the 
Eocene  limestones  and  marls  which 
form  the  centre  of  the  chain,  and  are 
succeeded  by  the  Pliocene  or  Subapen- 
nine  marls  and  sands  which  extend  to 
the  valley  of  the  Po.)  Between  Dova- 
dola  aud  Terra  del  Sole  is  the  village 
of  Castro  Ciro — the  ancient  SalsMum — 
celebrated  for  its  mineral  waters, 
which  issue  from  the  Miocene  beds, 
and  contain  a  considerable  propor- 
tion of  iodine,  and  have  proved 
very  efficacious  in  glandular  and 
scrofulous  affections.  Castro  Caro 
derives  its  name  from  its  picturesque 
mediaeval  castle,  situated  on  a  mass  of 
marine  breccia  or  Panchmaf  which  rises 
precipitately  above  the  town,  6  m. 
beyond  this  is 

Terra  del  Sole^  formerly  the  frontier 
station  of  Tuscany,  a  walled  town  on 
the  1.  bank  of  the  Montone.  IJ  m. 
farther  is  Rovere,  until  lately  the 
Papal  frontier  station.  From  this  a 
pleasant  drive  of  about  2  m.  across  the 
plain— during  which  Bertinoro,  perched 
on  one  of  the  last  spurs  of  the  Apen- 
nines, is  seen  picturesquely  on  the  sum- 
mit of  its  hill,  at  some  distance  on  the 
rt. — brings  us  to  the  bridge  over  the 
Montone  and 

16  m,  ForlI  (described  in  Rte.  72). 


ROUTE  Q%, 

FOBiA  TO  BAVEMNA, 

20  m. 

As  there  is  no  regular  public  con- 
veyance on  this  route,  persons  proceed- 
ing to  Ravenna  must  hire  a  vehicle  for 


the  journey.  Paolo  Traversaro,  who 
may  be  heard  of  at  the  diligence  office, 
has  a  good  carriage,  and  can  be  recom- 
mended ;  the  charge  to  Ravenna  will  be 
about  10  francs,  and  the  time  occupied 
in  the  journey  3  hours. 

An  excellent  road  of  about  20  m,. 
parallel  to  the  1.  bank  of  the  Ronoo, 
which  from  here  to  the  sea  is  confined 
in  its  channel  by  high  banks.  Like 
the  following  route,  this  presents  a 
succession  of  farm-houses  thickly  scat- 
tered over  a  country  which  is  sur- 
passed by  none  in  Italy  for  fertility. 
Soon  after  leaving  Forli,  a  road  to 
Cervia  and  Rimini  branches  oiF  on 
the  rt, :  before  reaching  Ravenna, 
the  canal  formed  by  the  united  waters 
of  the  Montone  and  Ronco  is  passed, 
and  the  city  is  entered  by  the  Porta 
Sisi. 

20  m.  Ravenna  (Rte.  69a). 


ROUTE  67. 


FAENZA  TO  RAVENNA, 

A  cross-road  of  22  m. 

An  agreeable  drive  of  about  3  hours 
over  a  level  road,  through  a  country 
of  extraordinary  fertility.  4  m.  after 
leaving  Faenza  the  road  crosses  die 
Lamone  at  the  Ponte  della  Castellina. 
Between  Russi  and  Godo,  which  lie  on 
the  rt.,  the  present  route  &lls  into  the 
high  road  from  Bologna  to  Ravenna 
through  Lugo  and  Medecina. 

2i  Ravenna  (Rte.  69a). 


KOMAGNA. 


JRoute  68. — Bologna  to  Ravenna, 


541 


ROUTE  68. 

BOLX>GNA  TO  RAVENNA,  BY  IMOLA  AMD 

LUGO, 

MILES. 

Bologna  to  S.  Nicoolb   |  j»^j  21 


S.  Ntcoolb  to  Imola 
Imola  to  Lugo 
Lugo  to  Bavenna 


} 


26 


46  m. 


The  first  portion,  between  Bologna 
and  Imola,  is  described  in  Rte.  72, 
where  an  account  of  Imola  will  be  found. 
The  route  from  Imola  to  Kavenna  is 
somewhat  longer  than  that  from  Faen- 
za ;  but  the  road  is  excellent,  and  the 
country  through  which  it  passes  is  in- 
teresting on  account  of  its  high  state  of 
cultivation. 

Leaving  Imola,  the  road  proceeds 
along  the  1.  bank  of  the  Santerno  as  far 
as  Mordano.  After  crossing  the  San- 
terno it  turns  towards  Lugo.  3  m. 
N.W.  from  this  is  the  walled  town 
of  Massa  Lorr^arday  supposed  to  have 
derived  its  name  from  the  Hantaan 
and  Brescian  emigrants  who  fled 
from  the  persecutions  of  Frederick 
Barbarossa,  and  settled  here  in  1232. 
There  is  no  doubt  that  the  establish- 
ment of  this  colony  contributed  to  the 
prosperity  of  the  district ;  and  it  is  re- 
corded that  Francesco  d*Este,  one  of 
the  generals  of  the  Emp.  Charles  V., 
on  his  deathbed  at  Ferrara  in  1573, 
directed  that  the  Lombards  of  Massa 
should  carry  his  body  from  Ferrara  to 
this  town,  where,  in  accordance  with 
his  wishes,  it  was  buried.  The  present 
population  is  about  5000.  On  the  1. 
bank  of  the  Santerno,  a  branch  road 
from  Ferrara  through  the  marshes  of 
Argenta  falls  into  this  route. 

Lugo  {Inn:  Albergo  di  San  Marco, 
tolerable),  situated  in  the  plain,  nearly 
midway  between  the  Santerno  and  the 
Senio  rivers,  supposed  to  occupy  the  site 
of  Lucus  DiancB,  whose  temple  was  in 
the  neighbourhood.  Lugo^  now  an 
important  provincial  town  of  8500 
souls,  was  raised*  to  municipal  rank  by 
.    N,  Italy— ISdG. 


Julius  II.,  and  was  confirmed  in  its 
privileges  by  Pius  VII.  It  contains 
nothing  to  detain  the  traveller,  unless 
he  happen  to  visit  it  at  the  period  of 
its  fair,  which  commences  September 
1st,  and  lasts  till  the  19th  of  the  month. 
This  fair  is  said  to  date  from  the 
time  of  Marcus  Emilias,  a  proconsul 
of  Kavenna.  In  the  vicinity  of  Lugo 
are  2  small  towns,  each  of  which  is  in- 
teresting as  the  birthplace  of  person- 
ages whose  names  occupy  a  distin- 
guished place  in  Italian  history.  The 
first  of  these,  Cotignola^  3  m.  to  the 
S.E.  of  Lugo,  on  the  banks  of  the 
Senio,  was  the  birthplace  of  Atten- 
dolo  Sforza,  the  founder  of  that  il- 
lustrious house  which  subsequently 
played  so  important  a  part  in  the 
history  of  Italy.  It  was  here  that 
he  threw  his  pickaxe  into  the  branches 
of  an  oak,  in  order  that  it  might 
decide  by  its  fall,  or  by  remaining 
fixed,  whether  he  should  remain  a 
tiller  of  the  ground,  or  join  a  com- 
pany of  condottieri.  The  other  town, 
Fusignano,  about  4  m.  N.,  also  on  the  1. 
bank  of  the  Senio,  is  memorable  as  the 
birthplace  of  Vincenzo  Monti  the  poet, 
and  of  Angelo  Corelli  the  musical  com- 
poser. The  c^tle'of  Cunio,  celebrated 
as  one  of  the  strongholds  of  Romagna 
in  the  middle  ages,  was  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Cotignola  :  its  ruins  still 
exist. 

A  short  distance  from  Lugo  the  road 
crosses  the  Senio,  and  passes  through 
Bagnacavallo^  a  town  of  4000  souls, 
the  Roman  Tiberiacum,  in  honour  of 
Tiberius.  Several  Roman  inscriptions, 
and  other  antiquities  of  the  time  of  the 
Empire,  discovered  there  in  1605,  prove 
its  existence  at  that  period  as  a  Roman 
city.  The  present  town  is  walled,  and 
was  formerly  famous  for  its  strong 
castle.  It  has  a  cathedral  dedicated  to 
St.  Michael  the  Archangel,  and  a  circus 
for  the  game  of  pallone,  but  it  contains 
little  to  interest  the  stranger.  2  m. 
beyond  Bagnacavallo  the  road  crosses 
the  Lamone,  and  proceeds  across  the 
plain  to  Ravenna.  Near  Godo  that 
from  Faenza  falls  into  this  route.^ 


2  C 


142 


Moides  ^\)^  60a. — Bologna  to  Havenna.  Sect.  VII. 


ROUTE  69. 

BOLOGNA  TO  RAVENNA,  BT  MEDICINA 
AND  LUOO. 

About  50  m. 

This  IB  the  most  direct  route  as  re- 
gards actual  distance,  but  now  seldom 
followed,  since  the  opening  of  the  rly. 
from  Castel  Bolognese  to  Ravenna. 

The  distance  from  Bologna  to  Medi- 
cina  is  about  18  English  m. ;  the  road 
passing  through  one  of  the  richest 
agi*icuTtural  districts  of  La  Romagna, 
crossing  successively  the  Idice,  Qua- 
derna,  and  Gajana  streams,  flowing 
towards  the  Po;  about  10  m.  beyond 
Medecina  the  road  leaves,  on  the  1., 
Massa  Lombarda,  and,  after  crossing 
the  river  Santerno,  joins  the  road  from 
Imola  to  Ravenna  at  Lugo  (see  Rte. 
68). 


ROUTE  69  a. 

BOLOGNA  TO  RAVENNA,   BY  RAIL. 

Bologna  to  Castel  Bologoefle— Kail  42 

Castel  Bolognese  to 

Solarolo 5 

Lugo 14 

Bagnacavallo 18 

Kuso 25 

Godo 28 

Bavenna 41 

83  kil.  =  5U  m. 

This  is  now  the  most  convenient 
Route,  being  performed  in  2  hrs.  by 
the  rly.  as  far  as  Castel  Bolognese,  about 
25  miles  (see  Rte.  72)  ;  and  from  there 
by  the  branch  line.  Persons  pressed 
for  time  will  be  thus  able  to  visit  Ra- 
venna, rapidly  it  is  true,  and  return  to 
Bologna  on  the  same  evening. 

From  Castel  Bolognese  the  rlwy. 
crosses  the  almost  level  plain  of  La 
Romagna,  which  is  here  richly  culti- 


vated, passing  by  SdUxrolo,  Tjago^  Bagnd^ 
cavallo  (described   at  p.  541,  Rte.  t'8), 
and  Rtiso.    This  part  of  the  journey 
will  offer  little  interest  except  to  the 
agriculturist,  until  reaching  the  station 
at  Ravenna,  which  is  at  the  N.   ex- 
tremity of   the    town,    between    the 
fortress  and  the   Porta  Alberoni,  and 
within  a  short  distance  of  the  Corso 
and  Piazza  Mag^ore.     Omnibuses  and 
cabs  at  the  station,  with  fixed  fares  ; 
for    excursions   in    the    environs    an 
agreement  must  be  made. 

RAVENNA.— (iTMw .  H.del'Europe, 
new,  near  the  rly.  stat.;  La  Spauia 
Nova,  or  Spada  aOro,  good  for  Ra- 
venna, but  its  charges  complained  of; 
La  Bella  Emilia,  on  the  Via  di  Porta 
Adrians,  more  moderate  and  tolerably 
good.) 

Ravenna,  once  the  capital  of  the  West- 
em  Empire,  the  seat  of  the  Gothic  and 
Longobardic  kings,  and  the  metropolis 
of  the  Greek  Exarchs,  is  one  of  those 
historical  cities  which  are  best  illus-' 
trated  by  thei r  monuments.    VV  ithin  its 
Walls  repose  the  children  of  Theodosius,- 
and  amidst  the  tombs  of  its  exarchs' 
and  patriarchs  lie  the  mortal  remains 
of  Dante.   A  short  distance  beyond  the 
gates  is  the  mausoleum  of  Theodoric, 
king  of  the  Goths :  the  city  ramparts 
still  bear   evidence    of  the  breaches 
made  in  them  by  the  barbarians  who 
invaded  Italy  during  the  Lower  Em-, 
pire,  and  its  half-deserted  streets  are^ 
filled  with  Christian  antiquities  which 
have  undergone  scarcely  any  change 
since    the    time    of    Justinian.      As 
the  traveller  wanders  through  them, 
their  solitude  recalls  the  feelings  with 
which  he  may  have  ridden  round  the 
walls  of  Constantinople;  but  Ravenna 
has  preserved  more  memorials  of  her 
imperial  masters,  and  possesses  a  far 
higher  interest  for  the  Christian  anti- 
quary, than  even  that  celebrated  seat  of 
empire.    **  Whoever  loves  early  Chris- 
tian monuments,  whoever  desires  to  see 
them  in   greater  perfection  than  the 
lapse  of  14  centuries   could   warrant 
us   in  expecting,   whoever  desires  to 
study  them  unaided  by   the   remains 
of    heathen    antiquity,    should    make 
every   effort  to   spend  some  days  at 


Moute  69a. — Satenna, 


544 


Boute  69a. — Ravenna — History, 


Sect.  VIJ. 


least  in  this  noble  and  imperial  city. 
From  Rome  it  differs  mainly  in  this — 
that  your  meditations  on  its  ornaments 
are  not  disturbed  by  the  constant  recur- 
rence of  pagan  remains,  nor  your  re- 
searches perplexed  by  the  necessity  of 
inquiring  what  was  built  and  what  was 
borrowed  by  the .  faithful.  Ravenna 
has  only  one  antiquity,  and  that  is 
Christian.  Seated  like  Rome  in  the 
midst  of  an  unhealthy,  desolate  plain, 
except  when  its  unrivalled  pine-forests 
cast  a  shade  of  deeper  solitude  and 
melancholy  over  it ;  quiet  and  lonely, 
without  the  sound  of  wheels  upon  its 
grass-grown  pavement;  it  has  not 
merely  to  lament  over  the  decay  of 
ancient  magnificence,  but  upon  its  total 
destruction — except  what  Religion  has 
erected  for  herself.  She  was  not  in 
time  to  apply  her  saving  as  well  as 
purifying  unction  to  the  basilicas  and 
temples  of  preceding  ages ;  or  rather, 
she  seemed  to  occupy  what  she  could 
replace,  and  therefore,  in  the  strength 
of  imperial  favour,  raised  new  buildings 
for  the  Christian  worship,  such  as  no 
other  city  but  Rome  could  boast  of." — 
Cardinal  Wiseman. 

The  history  of  Ravenna  embraces 
a  considerable  portion  of  that  not 
only  of  Italy  during  the  middle  ages, 
but  also  of  the  Eastern  and  Western 
Empires.  Omitting  details,  it  will  be 
useful  for  the  appreciation  of  its  anti- 
quities to  give  a  rapid  sketch  of  its 
history  under  its  ancient  masters. 

The  accounts  by  classical  writers 
show  that  the  ancient  city  was 
built  on  wooden  piles  in  the  midst 
of  a  vast  iofjvne^  or  swamp,  and  so 
intersected  with  marshes  that  com- 
munication was  kept  up  by  numerous 
bridges,  not  only  throughout  the  ad- 
jacent country,  but  even  in  the  city 
itself.  The  sea,  which  is  now  from 
3  to  4  m.  distant,  then  flowed  up  to 
its  walls.  Ravenna  became  a  Roman 
colony  at  an  early  period.  In  the 
contests  between  Sylla  and  Marius 
it  espoused  the  cause  of  the  latter, 
for  which  it  subsequently  severely  suf- 
fered ;  and,  judging  from  an  expres- 
sion in  Cicero,  was  an  important  naval 
station  at  the  time  of  Pompey.  Csesar 
Qcupied  it  previous  to  his  invasion 


of  Italy.  Under  Augustus  its  con- 
sequence was  increased  by  the  construc- 
tion of  an  ample  port  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Candianus,  capable  of  affording 
shelter  to  250  ships,  and  which  super- 
seded the  old  harbour  at  the  month  of 
the  Ronco.  He  connected  the  new  port 
with  the  Po  by  means  of  a  canal,  and 
carried  a  causeway  to  it  from  the  city, 
which  he  made  his  frequent  residence, 
and  embellished  with  magnificent  build- 
ings. The  new  harbour  was  called 
Partus  Classis,  a  name  still  retained  in 
the  distinctive  title  of  the  basilica  of 
S.  ApoUinaris;  and  the  intermediate 
settlement  which  arose  from  the  esta- 
blishment of  the  port  was  called 
Ccesarea^  whose  name  also  was  per- 
petuated until  a  comparatively  recent 
period  by  the  church  of  S.  Lorenzo 
in  Cesarea.  Subsequent  emperors  added 
to  the  natural  strength  of  Ravenna 
by  fortifying  and  maintaining  its  im- 
portance as  a  naval  station.  But 
its  true  interest  does  not  commence 
until  after  the  classical  age.  On 
the  decline  of  the  Roman  empire,  Ho- 
norius  chose  Ravenna  as  the  capital  of 
the  Western  Empire,  a.d.  404.  As 
early  as  then  the  alluvial  deposits  of 
the  ro  had  begun  to  accumulate  on  the 
coast;  the  port  of  Augustus  had  been  gra- 
dually filled  up,  and  the  forest  of  pines 
which  supplied  the  Roman  fleet  with 
timber  had  usurped  the  site  where 
that  fleet  had  once  rode  at  anchor,  and 
spread  far  along  the  shore,  thus  extend- 
ing gradually  to  a  greater  distance  from 
the  city.  These  and  other  circum- 
stances combined  to  make  it  a  place  of 
security ;  and  Honorius,  afraid  of  re- 
maining defenceless  at  Milan,  chose 
Ravenna  as  his  residence,  where  his 
personal  safety  was  secure  amidst  the 
canals  and  morasses,  which  were  then 
too  shallow  to  admit  the  large  vessels 
of  the  enemy.  He  availed  himself  of 
these  changes  to  strengthen  the  city 
with  additional  fortifications,  and  so  far 
succeeded  that  its  impregnable  position 
saved  it  from  the  inroads  of  the  bar- 
barians under  Radagaldus  and  Alaric. 
Without  entering  into  details  of  tlie 
Imperial  rule  at  Ravenna  under  Pla- 
*idia,  the  sister  of  Honorius,  during  the 
minority  of  her  son  Valentinian,  it  may 


ROMAGNA. 


Route  69a. — Ravenna — Histcyry, 


545 


suffice  to  state  that  under  her  feeble 
successors  even  the  natural  advantages 
of  the  city  were  unable  to  offer  an  effec- 
tual resistance  to  the  hordes  under  Odo- 
acer,  who,  in  little  more  than  70  years 
after  the  arrival  of  Honorius,  made  him- 
self master  of  Ravenna,  and  extinguish- 
ed the  Empire  of  the  West,  by  depos- 
ing Romulus  Augustulus,  the  last  of 
the  Csesars.  His  rule,  however,  had 
lasted  but  15  years  when  Theodoric, 
king  of  the  Ostro-Goths,  crossed  the 
Alps  with  a  powerful  army,  and  after 
several  gallant  struggles  overthrew 
Odoacer,  and  made  Ravenna  the  capital 
of  the  Gothic  kingdom.  Theodoric  was 
succeeded  in  the  sovereignty  of  Italy 
by  two  of  his  descendants,  and  they 
in  turn  by  a  series  of  elective  kings, 
from  Vitiges,  the  last  of  whom,  Justinian 
endeavoured  to  reconquer  the  lost  pro- 
vinces, aided  by  the  military  genius  of 
Belisarius.  The  campaign  of  that  cele- 
brated general,  and  his  siege  and  capture 
of  Ravenna,  are  familiar  to  every 
reader  of  the  *  Decline  and  Fall  of  the 
Homan  Empire/ 

It  would  be  out  of  place  to  dwell  upon 
the  circumstances  which  led  to  the  re- 
call of  Belisarius,  and  the  appointment 
of  Narses,  the  new  general  of  Justinian, 
who  drove  the  Goths  out  of  Italy,  and 
was  intrusted  with  the  administration 
of  the  Italian  kingdom  with  the  title 
of  Exarch.  The  rank  thus  conferred 
upon  the  favourite  lieutenant  of  the 
emperor  was  extended  to  his  successors 
during  the  continuance  of  the  Greek 
sovereignty :  the  functions  of  the  ex- 
archs corresponded  in  some  measure  to 
those  of  the  ancient  prsetorian  prefects. 
Their  government  comprised  the  entire 
kingdom  of  Italy,  including  Rome  itself, 
and  the  pope  or  bishop  of  the  Christian 
capital  was  regarded  as  subject  to  their 
authority,  possessing  merely  a  temporal 
barony  in  Rome,  but  dependent  on  the 
exarchate  The  territory  understood  to 
be  comprised  in  the  Exarchate  embraced 
moderii  Romagna,  the  districts  of  Fer- 
rara  and  Comacchio,  the  maritime  Pen- 
tapolis  or  towns  extending  along  the 
Adriatic  from  Rimini  to  Ancona,  and 
a  second  or  inland  Pentapolis,  including 
several  towns  on  the  eastern  declivities 
of  the  Apennines.   The  exarchate  lasted 


185  years,  during  which  the  people 
of  Rome  erected  a  kind  of  republic 
under  their  bishop;  and  Astaulphus, 
king  of  the  Lombards,  seeing  that 
Ravenna  would  be  an  easy  prey,  drove 
out  Eutychius,  the  last  exarch,  be- 
came master  of  the  city,  and  made 
it  the  metropolis  of  the  Longobardic 
kingdom  (a.d.  754).  The  attempt  of 
the  Lombards  to  seize  Rome  also, 
as  a  dependency  of  the  exarchate, 
brought  to  the  aid  of  the  Church  the 
powerful  army  of  the  Franks  under 
Pepin  and  Charlemagne,  by  whom  the 
Lombards  were  expelled,  and  Ravenna 
with  the  exarchate  made  over  to  the 
Holy  See  as  a  temporal  possession;  "  and 
the  world  beheld  for  the  first  time  a 
Christian  bishop  invested  with  the  pre- 
rogatives of  a  temporal  prince,  the 
choice  of  magistrates,  the  exercise  of 
justice,  the  imposition  of  taxes,  and  the 
wealth  of  the  palace  of  Ravenna." 

After  the  transfer  of  the  exarchate 
to  the  Bishops  of  Rome  by  the  Carlo- 
vingian  princes,  the  fortunes  of  Ravenna 
began  rapidly  to  decline;  its  archbishops 
frequently  seized  the  government,  and 
it  was  the  scene  of  repeated  commotions 
among  its  own  citizens.  In  the  13th 
century  the  constitution  of  Ravenna 
strongly  tended  to  an  aristocracy ;  its 
general  council  was  composed  of  250, 
and  its  special  council  of  70  persons. 
In  the  contests  of  the  Guelphs  and 
Ghibelines,  Pietro  Traversari,  an  ally 
of  the  former,  declared  himself  Duke  of 
Ravenna  (1218),  without  changing  the 
municipal  institutions  of  the  city.  His 
son  and  successor  quarrelled  with  the 
emperor  Frederick  II.,  who  reduced 
Ravenna  to  obedience  and  despoiled  it 
of  many  of  its  treasures.  The  city  was 
shortly  after  seized  upon  by  Innocent 
IV.,  and  reduced  again  to  the  authority 
of  the  Roman  pontiffs,  who  governed  it 
by  vicars.  In  1275  it  was  ruled  by  the 
family  of  Novella,  Lords  of  Polenta, 
whose  connection  with  it  is  commemo- 
rated by  Dante  under  the  image  of  the 
eagle  which  figured  in  their  armoria 
bearings. 

*•  Ravenna  sta  com'  fe  stata  moltl  anni: 
L'aquila  da  Polenta  \h  si  cova, 
Si,  che  Cervia  ricopre  coi  suoi  vanni." 

Inf.  xxvii. 


^    I 


546 


Route  69a. — Ravenna — History. 


Sect.  VII. 


"  The  state 
Ravenna  hath  maintain' d  this  many  a  year 
Is  steadfast    There  Pulenta's  eagle  broods : 
And  in  her  broad  circmnference  of  plumes 
Oershadows  Cervla."  Cory's  Trans. 

After  some  subsequent  changes  the 
inhabitants  were  induced  by  civil  tu- 
mults, arising  from  the  ambition  or  cu- 
pidity of  its  powerful  citizens,  to  throw 
themselves  under  the  protection  of 
Venice,  by  which  the  government  was 
seized  in  1441.  Kavenna  flourished 
under  the  republic;  its  public  build- 
ings were  restored,  its  fortress  was 
strengthened,  and  the  laws  were  ad- 
ministered with  justice  and  wisdom. 
After  retaining  it  for  68  years,  the  Ve- 
netians finally  ceded  it  to  the  Roman  See 
in  1509  under  Julius  II.:  and  it  then 
became  the  capital  of  Bomagna,  and 
was  governed  by  papal  legates.  In 
less  than  3  years  after  this  event  the 
general  Italian  war  which  followed  the 
league  of  Cambray  brought  into  Italy  the 
army  of  Louis  XII.  under  Gaston  de 
Foix,  who  began  his  campaign  of  Ro- 
magua  by  the  siege  of  Havenna.  After 
a  vain  attempt  to  carry  it  by  assault,  in 
which  he  was  bravely  repulsed  by  the 
inhabitants,  the  arrival  of  the  papal  and 
Spanish  troops  induced  him  to  give 
battle,  on  Easter  Sunday,  April  11, 
1512.  Italy  had  never  seen  so  bloody 
a  combat ;  little  short  of  20,000  men  are 
said  to  have  lain  dead  upon  the  field, 
when  the  Spanish  infantry,  yet  un- 
broken, slowly  retreated.  Gaston  de 
Foix,  furious  at  seeing  them  escape, 
rushed  upon  the  forn^idable  host  in  the 
vain  hope  of  throwing  them  into  dis- 
order, and  perished  in  the  attempt  about 
3  m.  from  the  walls  of  Ravenna.  The 
French  gained  tlie  victory,  but  it  was 
dearly  purchased  by  the  loss  of  their 
chivalrous  commander. 

At  the  French  invasion  of  1796  Ra- 
venna was  deprived  of  its  rank  as  the 
capital  of  Romagna,  which  was  given 
to  Forli ;  but  it  was  restored  by  Austria 
in  1799,  only  to  be  again  transferred 
by  the  French  in  the  following  year. 
On  the  fall  of  the  Kingdom  of  Italy, 
Ravenna  was  again  made  the  chief  city 
of  the  province,  but  its  ancient  glory 
had  passed  for  ever,  and  ouly  3  towns 


and  a  few  villages  were  left  subject  to 
its  authority. 

Ravenna,  at  the  present  time,  is  the 
chief  city  of  a  province  comprehending 
a  pop.  of  209,518  Tnhab.,  including  the 
suburbs,  and  a  surface  of  528  square  m. ; 
the  city  is  inhabited  by  21,056  persons, 
and  its  immediate  territory  irrigated 
by  numerous  rivers  and  torrents.  It 
is  the  seat  of  an  archbishop,  to  whom 
most  of  the  bishops  of  Romagna  are 
suffragans.  Its  bishopric,  one  of  the 
most  ancient  in  the  Christian  world, 
was  founded  a.d.  44,  by  S.  ApoUinaris, 
a  disciple  of  Peter ;  and  it  obtained  the 
dignity  of  an  archi episcopal  see  as  early 
as  439,  under  Sixtus  III.  The  circuit 
of  the  city  is  about  3  m.,  but  nearly 
one-half  of  the  enclosed  space  consists 
of  gardens.  Besides  its  churches  and 
other  objects  of  antiquarian  interest,  it 
contains  a  college,  a  museum,  public 
schools,  and  an  academy  of  the  fine 
arts.  Its  port,  communicating  with  the 
Adriatic  by  a  canal,  is  still  considered 
one  of  the  great  outlets  of  Romagna, 
and  carries  on  a  considerable  trade  with 
Venetia,  the  Austrian  possessions  in 
Istria  and  Dalmatia,  and  the  Italian 
provinces  on  the  Adriatic. 

To  visit  everything  of  interest  at 
Ravenna  will  not  occupy  the  traveller 
less  than  two  days:  to  facilitate  his 
doing  so  a  carriage  with  one  horse 
may  be  procured  at  the  rly.  stat.  and 
hotels. 

The  following  topographical  order 
will  be  perhaps  "the  most  useful  to 
follow : — 

1st  day  :  Duonio  ;  Baptistert  ; 
Archbishop's  Palace;  Palazzo  Ras- 
poui  and  Gallery  ;  Porta  Adriana 
and  Boulevart  near  it;  Churches  of 
San  Vitale  and  Santa  Maria  Mag- 
giore ;  Tomb  of  Galla  Placidia  ; 
Ch.  of  San  Giovanni  Battista;  Porta 
Serrata;  Mausoleum  of  Theodoric; 
returning  into  the  city  by  the  Port 
of  Ravenna  and  Porta  Alberoni ;  Pa- 
lace of  Theodoric  ;  Ch.  of  S.  Apol- 
linabe  Nuovo  ;  Ch.  of  S.  Giovanni 
F>  A  NO  ELISTA ;  Chs.  of  S.  Spirit©  and 
S.  Mabia  in  Cosmedin,  Piazza  Mag- 
giore ;  &c. 

2nd  day :  Tomb  of  Dante  ;  Ch.  of 
S,  Francesco;  House  of  Lord  Byron; 


HOMAGNA. 


Route  69a. — Ravenna — Cathedral, 


547 


ACCADEMTA  DELLE  BkLLE  ArTI  ;  LI- 
BRARY; Ch,  of  S.  KoMUALDo;  Col- 
i/EOE,  Library,  and  Museum.  Ch.  of 
S.  Nicolo;  Ch.  of  S.  Agata;  Porta 
Sisi ;  Santa  Maria  in  Porto  ;  Porta 
Nuova;  S.  Apollinare  in  Classe; 
Santa  Maria  in  Porto  Fuori  ;  driving 
back  through  the  Pin  eta  to  the  em- 
bouchure of  the  Canal  in  the  Adriatic, 
and  thence  along  the  former  to  the 
Porta  Alberoni  at  Ravenna. 

The  Cathedral,  once  a  remarkable 
example  of  the  ancient  Basilica,  has 
lost  all  traces  of  its  original  character. 
It  was  built  by  S.  Ursus,  archbishop 
of  the  see,  in  the  4th  century,  and 
called  from  him  **  Basilica  Ursiaua." 
It  -was  almost  entirely  rebuilt  in  the 
last^  century ;  the  cylindrical  cam- 
panile alone  reihains  of  the  original 
foundation.  Amongst  the  objects  of 
interest  in  the  present  ch.  are  the 
celebrated  paintings  by  Guido  in  the 
chapel  of  the  Holy  Sacrament  repre- 
senting the  fall  of  the  manna,  and  in 
the  lunette  above  the  meeting  of  Mel- 
ehizedek  and  Abraham ;  these  are 
classed  by  Lanzi  among  Guidons  best 
works.  The  frescoes  of  the  Cupola, 
with  the  exception  of  the  Archangel 
Michael,  are  attributed  to  his  pupils,  as 
well  as  the  four  Prophets  on  the  pen- 
dentives  below.  Near  this,  in  a  lunette, 
over  an  arch  at  the  entrance  of  the 
sacris^,  is  Guido's  fresco  of  the  Angel 
bringing  food  to  Elijah,  the  latter  a 
fine  sleeping  figure.  Among  the  other 
pictures  which  deserve  notice  are  the 
grand  Banquet  of  Ahasuerus,  over  the 
great  entrance,  by  Carlo  Bonone,  well 
known  by  the  minute  description  of 
luanzi,  and  the  modern  paintings  in 
the  choir,  of  the  death  of  St,  Peter 
Chrysologus  by  Benevenuti,  and  of  the 
Consecration  of  the  ch.  by  St.  Ursus, 
by  Camuccini,  The  high  alf ar  contains 
a  marble  urn,  in  which  are  deposited 
the  remains  of  several  early  bishops  of 
the  see.  The  silver  crucifix  of  St. 
Agnellus  on  this  altar  is  covered  with 
sculptures  of  the  6th  century.  The 
chapel  of  the  Madonna  del  Sudore 
contains  two  large  marble  urns  co- 
vered with  bas-reliefs,  in  one  of  which, 
as  related  by  the  inscription,  are  the 
ashes  of  St.   Barbatian,  confessor  of 


Galla  Placidia;  in  the  other  those  of 
San  Rinaldus.  Behind  the  choir  are  2 
semicircular  marble  slabs  with  sym- 
bolical representations  of  birds  and 
animals,  which  formed  part  of  the  an- 
cient ambo  or  pulpit,  a  work  of  the 
6th  century,  as  shown  by  the  inscrip- 
tion stating  that  it  was  erected  by  St. 
Agnellus.  Near  these  slabs  is  a  bas- 
relief  of  St.  Mark  by  Lombardi. 
In  the  sacristy  is  a  Paschal  calendar 
on  marble,  a  remarkable  monument  of 
astronomical  knowledge  in  the  early 
times  of  Christianity.  It  was  calcu- 
lated for  95  years,  beginning  with 
532,  and  ending  in  626»  The  Sacristy 
also  contains  the  pastoral  chair  of  St. 
Maximian,  formed  entirely  of  ivory, 
with  his  monogram  in  front.  The 
bas-reliefs  below  the  monogram  re- 
present the  Saviour  in  the  character 
of  a  shepherd  and  priest  in  the  midst 
of  the  4  evangelists:  on  the  2  ends 
is  the  history  of  Joseph,  and  these 
which  remain  on  the  back  represent 
various  events  in  the  life  of  the  Saviour^ 
with  arabesque  designs  of  animals.  It 
is  precious  as  a  specimen  of  art  in  the 
6th  century,  but  it  has  evidently  suffered 
from  injudicious  cleaning.  Enclosed 
within  the  grand  door  of  the  cathedral 
are  still  preserved  some  fragments  of 
its  celebrated  Door  of  vine-wood,  which 
has  been  superseded  by  one  of  modern 
construction.  The  original  planks  are 
said  to  have  been  13  feet  long  and 
nearly  If  wide — ^a  proof  that  the  an- 
cients were  correct  in  stating  that  the 
vine  attains  a  great  size,  and  con- 
firmatory of  the  assertion  that  the 
statue  of  Diana  of  Ephesus  was  made  of 
the  vine- wood  of  Cyprus.  It  is  probable 
that  the  wood  of  the  Ravenna  doors  was 
imported  from  Constantinople. 

The  ancient  Baptistery,  called  also 
"  S.  Giovanni  in  Fonte,"  separated  from 
the  cathedral  by  a  street,  is  supposed 
to  have  been  likewise  founded  by  S. 
Ursus :  it  was  repaired  in  451  by  arch- 
bishop Neo,  and  dedicated  to  St.  John 
the  Baptist.  It  is,  like  many  baptiste- 
ries of  the  early  Christians,  an  octago- 
nal building ;  the  interior  has  2  ranges 
of  arcades,  the  lower  resting  on  8  co- 
lumns of  difierent  orders  with  marble 
capitals,  placed  in  the  angles  of  the 


548 


Boute  69a. — Ravenna — Churches, 


Sect.  VTl. 


A 


building ;  the  upper,  24  in  namber,  are 
dissimilar  in  dimensions  as  well  as  in  the 
style  of  the  capitals.  The  lower  columns 
are  considerably  sunk  in  the  ground, 
and  both  these  and  the  upper  series  are 
supposed  to  have  belonged  to  some 
ancient  temple.  The  cupola  is  adorned 
with  well-preserved  mosaics  of  the  5th 
century,  representing  in  the  centre 
Christ  baptized  in  the  Jordan  bv  St. 
John,  with  a  representation  oi  the 
river,  having  its  name  placed  over 
it,  and  in  the  circumference  the  12 
apostles,  each  with  his  name  and  bearing 
wreaths  or  crowns,  and  below  emblems, 
of  the  Gospels,  bishops,  thrones,  and 
with  other  ornaments.  (The  mos  t  correct 
representations  of  these,  as  well  as  of 
most  other  ancient  mosaics  of  Ravenna, 
will  be  found  in  Oiampini,  Vetera  Mo- 
numenta,  3  vols,  fol.,  Roma,  1757,  and 
of  those  of  the  tomb  of  Galia  Placidia  in 
Quast's  *  Alt.  Christlichen  Bauwerke 
von  Ravenna,'  1  vol.  fol.  Berlin,  1842.) 
The  grand  vase  under  the  cupola,  which 
was  formerly  used  for  baptism  by  im- 
mersion, is  of  slabs  of  white  marble  and 
porphyry,  with  a  recess  or  ambo  for 
the  officiating  priest.  A  chapel  in  one 
of  the  recesses  of  the  building  contains 
under  its  altar  a  sculptured  marble  of 
the  6th  century,  which  formerly  be- 
longed to  the  ciborium  of  the  old  ca- 
thedral ;  and  in  another  a  beautiful  urn 
of  Parian  marble  covered  with  symbols 
supposed  to  relate  to  the  ancient  nuptial 
purifications ;  it  was  found  in  the 
temple  of  Jupiter  at  Caesarea.  The 
ancient  metal  cross  of  the  summit  of 
the  building  merits  notice  on  account 
of  its  antiquity  :  it  bears  an  inscription 
recording  that  it  was  erected  in  688  by 
Archbishop  Theodorus.  It  has  recently 
been  removed,  and  now  stands  in  front  of 
the  church,  but  an  exact  representation 
of  it  has  been  let  into  the  inner  wall  of 
the  baptistery.  In  the  adjoining  square 
are  several  mediaeval  and  sepulchral 
urns  in  marble. 

The  Ch,  of  Sta.  Agata,  in  the  street 
leading  to  the  Porta  Sisi,  another 
ancient  edifice,  dating  from  the 
early  part  of  the  5th  century,  has 
a  nave  and  two  aisles  divided  by 
20  columns,  partly  of  granite,  of  cip- 
polino,  and  of  other  marbles,  in  gene- 1 


ral   with  ancient  composite    capitals, 
the  imposts  over  which  have  the  cross 
sculptured    upon     them.      The     wall 
which  rises  over  them  was  formerly 
pierced  with  numerous  windows,  as  we 
see  in  the  smaller  Christian  basil  ica;:. 
The  choir  contains  a  painting  of  the 
Crucifixion,  by  Francesco  da  Cotignola ; 
and  the  chapel  at  the  end  of  the  rt. 
aisle  one  of  Luca  LongkVs  best  works, 
representing  S.  Agata,  St.   Catherine, 
and  St.  Cecilia.      The  altar   of    this 
chapel  contains  the  bodies  of  S.   Ser- 
gius  martyr,   and   S.   Agnellus   arch- 
bishop, and  bears  the  two  monograms 
of  Sergius  JDiaconus,    The  corresponding 
chapel  in  the  opposite  aisle  has  a  good 
painting  of  the  Virgin  and  St.  Peter 
by   Barbiani,     The   tribune  was   once 
covered  with  mosaics'of  the  6th  centy., 
but  which  were  destroyed  by  an  earth- 
quake in    1688.      The   very    ancient 
pulpit  is  worthy  of  notice ;  it  is  formed 
of  a  hoUowed-out  section  of  a  huge 
fiuted  column  of  cipolino  marble  from 
some  gigantic  pagan  edifice. 

The  Ch.  ofS.  ApoUinare  Nuovo,  in  the 
Corso  or  long  street  leading  from  Porta 
Nuova  to  P.  Serrata,  built  by  Theo- 
doric  in  the  beginning  of  the  sixth 
century  as  the  cathedral  for  his  Arian 
bishops,  was  consecrated  for  Catholic 
worship  by  archbishop  S.  Agnellus,  at 
the  close  of  the  Gothic  kingdom,  and 
dedicated  to  S,  Martin,  It  was  also 
called  San  Martino  in  Celo  Aureo,  on 
account  of  its  magnificent  decorations, 
and  Sacellum  Arii  from  its  original 
destination.  It  assumed  its  present 
name  in  the  9th  century,  from  the  belief 
that  the  body  of  S.  Apollinaris  had  been 
transferred  within  its  walls,  in  order 
to  secure  it  in  its  real  resting-place  at 
Classe  from  the  attacks  of  the  Saracens. 
The  24  marble  columns  of  grey  cippo- 
lino  supporting  the  rounded  arches  di- 
viding the  nave  from  the  aisles  were 
brought  from  Constantinople ;  they 
have  composite  capitals,  on  each  of 
which  is  an  impost  with  Latin  crosses 
sculptured  on  it.  The  walls  of  the 
nave,  which  rest  on  these  arches,  are 
covered  with  superb  mosaics,  exe- 
cuted about  A.D.  570.  On  the  1.  is  re- 
presented the  city  of  Classis,  with  the 
sea  and  ships ;  then  come  22  virgins 


HOMAGNA. 


Route  69a. — JRavenna —  Churches, 


549 


each  holding  iu  her  hand  a  crown,  pre- 
ceded by  the  magi,  in  the  act  of  pre- 
senting their  oiferings  to  the  Virgin  and 
ClUld  seated  upon  a  throne  with  2 
angels  on  either  side.  **  This  superb 
mosaic,  the  finest  in  the  whole  of  Ra- 
venna, may  deserve  attention  on  another 
account  :  the  earliest  monuments  of 
Ciiristian  art  give  little  countenance  to 
Mariolatry,  or  the  peculiar  veneration 
to  the  Virgin,  which  has  so  long  distin- 
guished the  Greek  and  Roman  churches. 
In  this  mosaic,  however,  though  the 
presence  of  the  magi  with  ofierings  may 
seem  to  denote  some  relation  to  the 
Nativity  as  an  historical  fact,  the  22 
Virgins  in  their  company,  the  4  Angels 
as  it  were  guarding  the  Mother  nnd 
Child,  and  especially  the  Glory  round 
her  head,  exclude  all  but  an  allegorical 
or  symbolical  meaning,  and  lead  to  tlie 
conclusion  that  this  great  corruption 
of  Chi'istianity  was  established  in  the 
Church  before  the  end  of  the  6th  centy., 
whtle  the  absence  of  similar  representa- 
tions in  earlier  works  would  lead  to  an 
opposite  inference." — //.  Hallam. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  nave,  the 
mosaic  presents  us  with  a  picture  of 
liavenna  at  that  period,  in  which  we 
distinguish  the  Basilica  of  S.  Vitale,  and 
an  edifice  supposed  to  represent  the 
palace  of  Theoidoric  from  its  bearing  the 
word  Palatium  on  the  fa9ade :  and  25 
saints  holding  crowns,  each  having  a 
glory  round  the  head,  and  receiving  the 
benediction  of  the  Saviour  sitting  on 
a  throne  between  4  angels.  The  first 
iu  the  procession  is  in  a  violet  instead 
of  white  tunic,  and  bears  the  name  of 
Martinus,  the  patron  of  the  ch.  The 
rest  of  these  walls,  as  high  as  the  roof, 
are  covered  with  mosaics  representing 
the  fathers  of  the  Old  and  New  Testa- 
ments, and  various  miracles  of  the 
Saviour.  Another  mosaic,  in  toler- 
able preservation,  representing  the 
emperor  Justinian,  is  concealed  behind 
the  organ.  In  the  nave  is  the  ancient 
marble  pulpit  covered  with  early  Chris- 
tian sculptures,  supported  by  a  mass  of 
grey  granite.  The  altars  of  this  ch. 
are  rich  in  marbles.  In  the  last  chapel, 
opening  out  of  the  1.  aisle,  are  some 
ancient  relics — ^the  urn  in  which  are 
said  to  be  preserved  the  remains  of  St. 


Apollinaris,  and  beneath  the  ancient 
marble  chair  of  the  Benedictine  abbots, 
to  whom  thech.  formerly  belonged:  it  is 
supposed  to  be  a  work  of  the  10th  cent. 

The  Ch.  of  Santa  Croce,  built  by 
Galla  Placidia  in  the  .5th  century,  and 
near  her  mausoleum,  and  consecrated 
by  St.  Peter  Chrysologus,  has  been 
sadly  ruined. 

The  Ch,  of  San  Domenico,  a  restora- 
tion of  an  ancient  basilica  founded  by 
the  exarchs,  contains  some  works  by 
Niccold  Rondinello,  of  Ravenna,  a  pupil 
of  Giov.  Bellini.  The  Virgin  and  Child 
with  S.  Jerome,  S.  Dominick,  S.  Joseph, 
and  S.  Francis  of  Assisi,  the  Annuncia- 
tion, the  S.  Domenico  and  St.  Peter  in 
the  choir,  and  the  Virgin  and  Child 
with  the  Magdalen  and  other  saints. 
In  the  chapel  on  1.  of  the  high  altar  is 
an  ancient  wooden  crucifix  curiously 
covered  with  fine  linen  in  imitation  of 
human  skin,  which  is  said  to  haye 
sweated  blood  during  the  battle  of 
Ravenna  under  Gaston  de  Foix.  The 
2nd  chapel  on  the  1.  contains,  in  small 
circular  paintings, the  Fifteen  Mysteries 
of  the  Rosary,  by  Zuca  Longhi:  and 
the  3rd  on  the  rt.  has  a  picture  by  the 
same  artist  representing  the  Invention 
of  the  Cross.  A  large  painting  on 
panel  in  the  choir,  of  the  Virgin  and 
Child  with  saints,  bears  the  name  of 
Benedictus  At^mini,  Longhi  the  painter 
is  buried  in  this  ch. 

The  Ch.  of  S.  Francesco^  near  the 
Theatre  and  Piazza  Maggiore,  sup- 
posed to  have  been  erected  in  the 
middle  of  the  5th  centy.,  by  St.  Peter 
Chrysologus,  on  the  site  of  a  temple  of 
Neptune,  has  suffered  from  modern 
restorations.  It  has  a  nave  and  2  aisles 
divided  by  22  columns  of  white  and 
cippolino  marble.  In  the  chapel  at  the 
extremity  of  the  rt.  aisle  is  an  urn 
containing  the  remains  of  S.  Liberius, 
archbishop  of  the  see,  a  fine  work, 
referred  to  the  4th  or  5th  century  ;  on 
it  is  a  series  of  bas-reliefs  of  the  12 
Apostles,  with  the  Saviour  in  the 
centre.  The  chapel  of  the  Crucifix 
contains  2  beautiful  columns  of  Greek 
marble,  decorated  with  capitals  sculp- 
tured by  Pietro  Lombardo,  by  whom 
likewise  are  the  rich  arabesques  of  the 
frieze  and  pilasters.    In  the  1.  aisle  is 

2  C3 


550 


Route  69a. — Bavenna — Churches. 


Sect,  vii: 


the  tomb  of  Luflfo  Numai,  of  Forll, 
secretary  of  Pino  Ordelaffi,  lord  of 
that  city,  the  work  of  Tommaso  Flam' 
berti.  In  the  4th  chapel  on  rt.  a  pic- 
ture of  the  Madonna,  with  the  Dona- 
tariay  by  Sacchi  dTmola,  a  rare  mas- 
ter. Upon  the  wall  on  the  rt.  of  the 
entrance  door  is  a  sepulchral  slab  tomb, 
formerly  on  the  floor,  with  the  figure 
in  bas-relief  of  Ostasio  da  Polenta, 
lord  of  Ravenna,  clothed  in  the  dress 
of  a  Franciscan  mopk,  and  bearing 
the  following  inscription  in  Gothic 
characters :  *  Hie  jacet  magnificus 
Dominus  Hostasius  de  Polenta  qui 
ante  diem  felix  obiens  occubuit 
McccLXXxxvi  die  xiv  mensis  Martii, 
cujus  anima  requiescat  in  pac«."  The 
head  of  Ostasio  is  beautiful.  The  Po- 
lenta family,  so  celebrated  for  their 
hospitality  to  Dante  and  for  the  fate 
of  Francesca  da  Rimini,  are  buried  in 
this  ch.  On  the  1.  side  of  the  doorway 
is*  a  similar  sepulchi^l  stone,  on  which 
is  sculptured  the  figure  of  Enrico 
Alfieri,  general  of  the  Frauciocan  order, 
who  died  at  the  age  of  92,  in  1405, 
as  recorded  by  a  long  insciiption  in 
hexameters.  He  was  of  Asti,  and 
probably  of  the  family  of  the  great 
poet  who  has  given  immortality  to  the 
name.  Outside  the  ch.,  towards  the 
Piazza,  is  the  Capella  Braccioforte,  in 
which  are  some  ancient  sarcophagi, 
hidden  in  the  walls  of  which  were  disco- 
vt^red  the  bones  of  Dante  in  May  1805. 
On  the  N.  side  of  S.  Francesco,  but  de- 
tached from  it,  and  in  what  was  the 
cemetery  of  the  friars,  is  the  mausoleum 
of  Dante.  In  the  Piazza  before  this 
ch.  is  a  statue  of  Pope  Alexander  VII. 
The  house  which  forms  the  corner  of 
the  little  square  is  that  which  Lord 
Byron  inhabited  for  several  months  on 
Lis  first  arrival  at  Ravenna  in  1819. 

The  Church  of  S.  Giovanni  Jiattista, 
near  the  Porta  Serrata,  also  called  S, 
G.  dalle  Catine,  erected  by  Galla  Pla- 
cidia  for  her  confessor  St.  Barbatian  in 
4 '3  8,  was  consecrated  by  St.  Peter 
Chrysologus,  but  it  was  almost  entirely 
rebuilt  in  1683.  In  the  Piazzetta  be- 
fore it  are  3  huge  sarcophagi,  the 
largest  of  which  contains  the  ashes  of 
i^ietro  Traversari,  lord  of  Ravenna, 
^hb  died  in  1225.     The  columns  of  the 


interior  are  chiefly  adapted  from  the 
ancient  building ;  some  of  them,  how- 
ever, were  found  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  the  ch.  on  the  supposed  site  of  the 
imperial  palace  in  which  Galla  Placidia 
resided.  The  ch.  contains  2  paintings  by 
Francesco  Longhiy  one  in  the  1.  transept 
representing  the  Virgin  and  Child  with 
St.  Clement  and  St.  Jerome ;  the  other, 
in  the  1st  chapel  on  1.,  the  Virgin  and 
Child  with  St.  Matthew  and  St.  Francis 
of  Assisi.  The  circular  Campanile  of 
this  ch.  is  one  of  the  best  preserved 
specimens  of  this  class  of  Bell-towers, 
so  peculiar  to  Ravenna ;  it  has  six  tiers 
of  openings ;  the  upper  one  of  narrow 
arches,  with  its  terminal  cornice  and  its 
pyramidal  roof  entire. 

The  Basilica  of  S.  Giovanni  Evan- 
gelista^  also  called  8*  Giovanni  della 
Sagra,  in  a  recess  off  the  Corso  di  Porta 
Serrata,  was  founded  in  414  by  the 
Empress  Galla  Placidia,  in  fiilfllment 
of  a  vow  made  in  a  tempest  during  the 
voyage  from  Constantinople  to  Ravenna 
with  her  children.  Like  the  cathe«^ral 
it  has  lost  much  of  its  ancient  character 
by  restorations,  and  most  of  its  mosaics 
have  disappeared.  The  Church  tradi- 
tion relates  that,  not  knowing  with 
what  relic  to  enrich  the  church,  the 
empress  was  praying  on  the  subject 
when  St.  John  appeared  to  her  in  a 
vision ;  she  threw  herself  at  his  feet  fw 
the  purpose  of  embracing  them,  but  the 
evangelist  disappeared,  leaving  one  of 
his  sandals  as  a  relic.  This  vision  is 
represented  in  a  beautiful  bas-relief 
over  the  pointed  doorway,  a  work  pro- 
bably of  the  13th  centy. ;  the  lower 
part  shows  St.  John  incensing  the 
altar,  with  the  empress  embracing  his 
feet;  in  the  upper  part  she  appears 
offering  the  sandal  to  the  Saviour  and 
St.  John,  while  S.  Barbatian  and  bis 
attendants  are  seen  on  the  other  side. 
The  doorway,  especially  in  the  small 
niches,  is  richly  sculptured  with  figures 
of  saints,  and  is  a  very  fine  specimen 
of  the  architecture  of  the  period.  The 
interior  of  the  church,  consisting  of  a 
nave  and  aisles,  supported  by  24  an- 
cient columns,  contains  the  high  altar, 
beneath  which  repose  the  remains  of 
SS.  Canzius,  Canzianus,  and  Canzianilla, 
martyrs;  in  the  chapel  of  St,  Bartho- 


ROMAGNA. 


Route  69a. — Ravenna — Churches, 


551 


lomew,  at  the  extremity  of  the  1. 
aisle,  are  some  fragments  of  a  mosaic, 
representing  the  storm  and  the  vow  of 
Galla  Placidia.  The  vault  of  the  fourth 
chapel  on  the  same  side  is  painted  by 
GiottOy  representing  the  four  Evangelists 
with  their  symbols,  and  St.  Gregory,  St. 
Ambrose,  St.  Augustin,  and  St.  Jerome. 
All  these  frescoes  have  been  more  or 
less  repainted,  the  SS.  John,  Matthew, 
and  Gregory  the  least.  The  walls  of 
the  chapel,  once  covered  with  fres- 
coes, have  been  whitewashed  over. 
Beneath  the  choir  is  the  ancient  altar 
of  the  confessional,  in  marble,  por- 
phyry* aiid  serpentine,  a  work  of  the 
fifth  century.  The  old  quadrangular 
Campanile,  the  articulations  of  which 
were  ornamented  with  white  and  green 
mosaics,  is  remarkable  for  its  2  bells 
cast  by  Robert  of  Saxony  in  1208. 

The  Ch,,  or  Ch-atory  of  Santa  Maria  in 
Cosmedin,  which  opens  out  of  the  court 
of  the  ch.of  S.  Spirito,  near  here  (see  be- 
low), was  the  ancient  Arian  baptistery : 
its  vault  was  decorated  with  mosaics  in 
the  Cth  century,  after  it  had  passed  to 
the  Catholic  worship.  It  is  an  octagonal 
building.  The  mosaics  of  the  roof  re- 
present the  Baptism  in  the  Jordan  in 
the  centre,  the  river  issuing  from  the 
urn  of  a  river  god  ;  the  Saviour  half 
immersed  in  it,  and  who  alone  has  a 
glory  round  the  head:  lower  down, 
foi'ming  a  circular  band,  are  the  Twelve 
Apostles,  each  bearing  a  crown  in  his 
hand,  with  the  exception  of  St.  Peter, 
who  carries  the  keys,  and  St.  Paul, 
who  bears  2  scrolls,  advancing  towJEirds 
a  throne  covered  with  a  veil  and 
cushion,  and  occupied  by  a  cross  only. 
Upon  the  large  round  block  of  granite 
in  the  centre  of  the  floor  is  supposed 
to  have  stood  the  ancient  baptismal  font. 

The  Ch,  of  Sta.  Maria  in  Porto,  in  the 
Corso,  near  the  Porta  Nuova,  built  of 
the  materials  from  the  Basilica  of  S. 
Lorenzo  in  Cesarea,  in  1553,  with  a 
facade  erected  in  the  last  centy.,  is 
perhaps  the  finest  ch.  of  recent  date 
in  Eavenna.  It  is  celebrated  for  an 
image  of  the  Virgin,  in  the  chapel 
of  the  rt.  transept,  in  marble,  in  ah 
oriental  costume,  and  in  the  act  of 
praying — a  very  early  specimen  of 
Christian  art,  originally  plskbed  In  the 


ch.  of  Sta.  Maria  in  Porto  Fuori,  and 
transferred  here  in  the  i6th  century. 
The  3rd  chapel  on  the  rt  contains  a 
fine  painting  by  Palma  Giovane,  the 
Martyrdom  of  St.  Mark.  The  5  th  chapel 
of  the  opposite  aisle  has  a  painting  by 
Ltica  Zonghiy  representing  the  Virgin, 
with  St.  Augustin  and  other  saints. 
In  the  choir  is  an  ancient  vase  in  red 
poi*phyry,  beautifully  worked,  supposed 
to  have  been  a  Roman  sepulchral  urn. 
The  adjoining  cloister  was  erected  in 
1507. 

The  Ch,  of  S.  Nicolb,  built  by  Arch- 
bishop Sergius,  in  768,  in  fulfildient  of 
a  vow,  contains  numerous  paintings  by 
Padre  Cesare  Pronti,  an  Augustinian 
monk,  sometimes  called  P,  Cesare  di  Ha- 
venna.  Among  these  may  be  mentioned 
the  St.  Thomas  of  Villanova;  the  St. 
Nicholas ;  the  St.  Augustin ;  the  Virgin; 
Sta.  Monica, considered  his  masterpiece; 
and  the  San  Francesco  di  Paola.  The 
large  painting  of  the  Nativity  over 
the  entrance  door,  the  St.  Sebastian  on 
the  1.  wall  of  the  choir  towards  the  nave, 
and  the  St.  Catherine  on  the  rt.,  are  by 
Francesco  da  Cotignola,  aud  good  speci- 
mens of  this  master;  the  archangel  Ra- 
phael is  by  Girolamo  Genga.  Outside  this 
ch.  is  one  of  the  largest  medisBval  sarco- 
phagi in  Ravenna.  On  it  are  sculptures 
of  the  Saviour,  of  the  Annunciation,  &c. 

The  Ch.  of  S,  Romualdo,  or  Classe, 
originally  belonging  to  the  Camaldolese 
order,  is  now  the  chapel  of  the  college 
of  Ravenna.  The  cupola  is  painted  in 
fresco  by  Giamhattista  Barhiuni,  who 
was  also  the  painter  of  the  S.  Romualdo 
in  the  choir,  and  of  the  frescoes  in  the 
1st  chapel  on  the  1.  of  the  entrance. 
The  2nd  chapel  contains  a  picture  of 
S.  Romualdo,  by  Guercino.  The  1st 
chapel  on  the  rt.  has  a  painting  of  S. 
Bartholomew  and  S.  Severus,  by  Fran^ 
ceschini;  and  the  2nd  a  picture  of  S. 
Benedict,  by  Carlo  Cignani,  The  sa- 
cristy contains  2  fine  columns  of  red 
porphyry,  found  near  St.  Apollinare  in 
Classe ;  and  the  picture  of  the  Raising 
of  Lazarus,  by  Francesco  da  Coiignola^ 
The  frescoes  of  the  roof  are  by  P» 
Cesare  Pronti,  In  the  refectory  of  the 
adjoining  convent,  now  the  college,  is 
a  fresco  of  the  marriage  of  Cana,  by 
LiLca   Longhi  and    his   son   Francesco » 


552 


Route  69a. — Bavenna — San  Vitale. 


Sect.  VII. 


The  altars  of  this  ch.  almost  surpass  in 
brilliancy  and  riches  all  the  others  in 
the  city. 

The  Ch.  of  the  Santo  Spirito,  called 
also  that  of  'S'.  Teodoro,  -was  built  in 
the  6th  century  by  Theodoric,  for  the 
Arian  bishops ;  it  assumed  the  name  of 
S.  Theodore  after  its  consecration  to 
the  Catholic  worship  by  S.  Agnellus, 
and  afterwards  took  the  present  name. 
It  is  in  the  form  of  a  small  basilica ;  the 
arches  of  Its  nave  being  on  columns  of 
gre^  and  other  marbles,  with  composite 
capitals  and  I/atin  crosses  on  their  im- 
posts. Besides  its  rich  marble  columns, 
It  contains  in  the  1st  chapel  on  1.  a  curi- 
ous pulpit,  or  ambOf  with  rude  sculp- 
tures of  the  6th  century.  In  front  of 
the  ch.  is  a  portico,  and  near  it  the 
Oratory  of  Sta.  Maria  in  Cosmedin  (see 
p.  55 1 ),  the  once  Arian  baptistery. 

The  magnificent  Basilica  of  San  Vitale 
(in  a  small  square,  near  the  Porta 
Adriana)  exhibits  the  octagonal  form 
with  all  the  accessories  of  Eastern 
splendour.  As  one  of  the  earliest  Chris- 
tian temples,  it  is  of  the  highest  interest 
in  the  history  of  ecclesiological  art.  It 
was  built  in  the  reign  of  Justinian  by  S. 
Ecclesius,  the  archbishop  of  the  see,  on 
the  spot  where  St.  Vitalis  suffered  mar- 
tyrdom, and  was  consecrated  by  St. 
M^aximianus  in  547.  It  is  an  imitation 
of  Sta.  Sophia  at  Constantinople,  and 
was  adopted  by  Charlemagne  al  the 
model  of  his  church  at  Aix-la-Chapelle. 
The  original  pavement  is  considerably 
below  the  present  floor,  and  is  covered 
with  water  at  times.  The  architecture 
of  the  interior  exhibits  8  arches 
resting  on  as  many  piers,  between 
which  are  semicircular  recesses  of  2 
stories,  each  divided  into  3  small 
arches  by  2  columns  between  the 
principal  piers.  The  spaces  between 
the  lower  columns  open  into  the  circu- 
lar aisle,  and  those  between  the  upper 
into  a  gallery.  Above,  the  building 
becomes  entirely  circular.  The  four- 
teen columns  of  the  upper  story  have 
complicated  capitals,  some  of  which 
bear  an  anchor,  supposed  to  indicate  that 
they  belonged  to  a  temple  of  Neptune. 
The  14  columns  of  the  lower  range 
have  also  Byzantine  capitals;  and  on 
each  of  the  imposts  of  these  columns 


are  2  monograms.  The  pilasters  and  the 
walls  ai'e  covered  with  large  slabs  of 
white  marble,  on  which  are  still  to  be 
traced  some  fragments  of  a  frieze. 
The  colossal  dome  was  painted,  in  the 
early  part  of  the  18th  century,  with 
frescoes  representing  the  fathers  of 
the  Old  and  New  Testaments,  with 
various  decorations,  such  as  festoons  of 
roses  hanging  from  the  roof*  all  in  the 
most  barbarous  taste,  and  in  total  vari- 
ance with  the  architectural  character 
of  the  building.  The  dome  is  con* 
structed  of  earthen  pots,  and  is  perhaps 
the  most  perfect  specimen  known  of 
this  kind  of  work.  They  are  small 
vessels,  having  the  point  of  one  in- 
serted in  the  mouth  of  the  other 
in  a  continued  spiral,  and  placed  hori- 
zontally. The  spandrils  are  par-^ 
tially  filled  with  others  of  larger  size, 
twisted  only  at  the  point,  and  ar- 
ranged vertically.  The  walls  and  vault 
of  the  choir  are  covered  with  mosaics 
of  the  time  of  Justinian,  as  beautiful 
and  as  fresh  as  on  the  day  when  they 
were  placed  here ;  invaluable  as  speci- 
mens of  art,  no  less  than  as  studies  of 
costume.  The  most  elabomte  of  these 
mosaics  are  those  of  the  tribune,  repre- 
senting in  the  larger  compartments  on 
the  1.  the  Emperor  Justinian  holding  a 
vase  containing  consecrated  offerings; 
he  is  surrounded  by  courtiers  and 
soldiers,  and  by  St.  Maximianus  and 
two  priests.  In  the  compartment  on  the 
opposite  wall  is  the  Empress  Theodora 
with  a  similar  vase,  which  she  offers  to 
two  courtiers,  attended  by  the  ladies 
of  her  court,  in  varied  and  elegant 
costumes ;  the  expression  of  some  of  the 
fignres  is  remarkable,  considering  the 
material  in  which  they  are  repre- 
sented. In  the  vault  above  is  the 
Saviour  throned  on  the  globe  between 
archangels;  on  his  rt.  is  S.  Vitalis 
receiving  the  crown  of  martyrdom; 
and  on  the  1.  S.  Eutychius  ofi^ering  a 
model  of  the  ch.,  both  saints  being 
without  glories  round  the  heads. 
The  roof  is  decorated  with  arabesques, 
urns,  the  12  Apostles,  and  other  or- 
namental devices.  The  mosaics  on  the 
concavity  of  the  arch  represent  half 
figures  of  the  Saviour  and  the  12 
Apostles,   with  S.   Gervasius   and   S, 


RoMAGNA.       Route  69a. — Ravennn — Tcmib  of  GaMa  Placidia,         553 


Pit>tasius,  sons  of  S.  Vitalis.  The  semi- 
circular mosaic  on  the  rt.  of  the  altar 
represents  the  sacrifices  of  the  Old  Lav, 
the  Offering  of  Abel,  and  of  Melchize- 
dek ;  beyond  it  Moses  tending  the 
sheep  of  Madan ;  Moses  on  Mount 
Horeb ;  Moses  in  the  act  of  taking  off 
bis  sandals  at  the  command  of  the  Al- 
mighty, represented  by  a  hand  in  the 
heavens.  The  corresponding  compart- 
ments on  the  opposite  wall  have  refer- 
ence to  the  sacrifice  by  Abraham  ;  the 
three  Angels  entertained  by  the  latter 
on  foretelling  the  birth  of  a  child, 
while  Sarah  stands  in  the  doorway  ridi- 
culing the  prediction ;  on  the  sides  and 
above,  Moses  on  Mount  Sinai;  the 
prophets  Isaiah  and  Jeremiah ;  and  on 
a  level  with  the  music  galleries  the 
four  Evangelists  with  their  emblems. 
The  preservation  of  these  extraordinary 
mosaics,  still  retaining  the  freshness  of 
their  colours,  amidst  all  the  revolutions 
of  Ravenna,  is  truly  wonderful;  they 
have  been  the  admiration  of  every 
writer,  and  they  cannot  fail  to  afford 
the  highest  interest  not  merely  to  the 
Christian  antiquary,  but  to  all  travellers 
of  taste.  The  splendid  columns  are 
mostly  of  Greek  marble.  On  the  im- 
posts of  the  arches  of  the  upper  columns 
on  the  sides  of  this  choir  are  two  mo- 
nograms of  Jttlianus,  written  on  one  of 
tliem  in  the  reverse.  Near  the  high 
altar,  on  each  side,  are  the  celebrated 
bas-reliefs  called  the  **  Throne  of  Nep- 
tune," compared  for  their  execution 
and  design  to  the  finest  works  of  an- 
tiquity. In  them  are  seen  the  throne 
of  the  god,  with  a  sea-monster  extended 
beneath  it;  a  winged  genius  holds  a 
trident  on  the  rt.,  and  on  the  1,  two 
other  genii  are  seen  bearing  a  large 
conque  shell.  The  ornaments  of  these 
sculptures  are  pilasters  of  the  Corinthian 
order,  a  cornice  with  tridents,  dolphins, 
shells,  and  two  sea-horses.  The  columns 
of  verde  antico  and  Egyptian  breccia 
on  each  side  of  these  bas-reliefs  sup- 
ported the  canopy  over  the  high  altar  of 
the  original  ch.  Several  chapels  sur- 
round the  circular  aisle  of  the  basilica : 
that  of  the  Holy  Sacrament  has  on  the 
altar  a  gilded  ciborium  attributed  to 
Michel  Angela  J  and  a  picture  of  St. 
Benedict  by  Francesco  Oessi,  a  pupil  of 


Guido.  The  Assumption  of  St.  Ger- 
trude in  another  is  by  Andrea  Barbiant, 
In  that  of  La  Pietk  is  a  huge  marble 
group  of  the  Dead  Saviour  and  Marys, 
by  I'oschini  and.  Bertos,  Next  follows  an 
opening  of  3  arches  in  the  outer  wall, 
and  immediately  opposite  to  the  tri- 
bune ;  this  was  the  principal  entrance  to 
the  basilica  ;  it  was  preceded  by  a  grand 
portico  covered  with  mosaics,  which,  as 
well  as  the  adjoining  circular  towers, 
were  destroyed  by  the  great  earthquake 
of  1688.  The  chapel  of  S.  Vitale  has 
a  statue  by  the  before-mentioned  sculp- 
tors. We  next  reach  the  vestibule  of 
the  Sacristy f  with  a  good  bas-relief  of 
a  sacrifice ;  it  is  supposed  to  have  been 
one  of  the  decorations  of  a  temple  dedi- 
cated to  Augustus.  The  pictures  in 
the  Sacristy  are  the  Virgin  and  Child 
throned,  with  St.  Sebastian  and  other 
saints,  by  Luca  Longhi,  a  native  artist ; 
the  Sta.  Agata  is  by  his  daughter  Bar' 
bar  a,  and  the  Annunciation  by  his  son 
Francesco ;  the  Martyrdom  of  S.  Eras- 
mus is  by  another  native  painter, 
Giambattista  Barbiani;  the  Martyrdom 
of  St.  James  and  St.  Philip  is  by 
Camillo  Procaccini,  The  Tomb  of  the 
Exarch  Isaac ^  "  the  great  ornament  of 
Armenia,"  remains  to  be  noticed.  It  is 
in  a  recess  off  the  passage  from  the  side 
door  of  the  basilica  leading  towards 
the  street.  It  was  erected  to  his  me- 
mory by  his  wife  Susanna,  and  bears 
a  Greek  inscription  on  the  cover  record- 
ing the  fame  he  acquired  in  the  east  and 
in  the  west,  and  comparing  her  widow- 
hood to  that  of  the  turtle  dove.  The 
urn  containing  his  ashes  is  of  marble, 
with  bas-reliefs  of  the  Adoration  of 
the  Magi  (it  is  worthy  of  remark  that 
there  is  no  glory  round  the  head  of  the 
Virgin),  the  Raising  of  Lazarus,  and 
Daniel  between  the  Lions.  Isaac  was 
the  8th  exarch  of  Ravenna,  and  died  in 
that  city,  according  to  Muratori,  a.d. 
644.  In  the  same  recess  are  some 
Roman  and  early  Christian  sculptures 
and  inscriptions.  A  short  way  beyond 
here  is  the 

Mausoleum  of  Galla  Placidia,  called 
also  the  Ch.  of  SS.  Nazario  e  Celso. 
This  once  magnificent  sepulchre  was 
built  by  the  Empress  Galla  Placidia, 
the  daughter  of  Theodosius  the  Great » 


554 


Eoute  69  a. — Ravenna — Palace  of  ITieodoric.         Sect.  VII. 


and  the  mother  of  Valentinian  III.,  the 
third  aud  fifth  emperore  of  the  West, 
towards  the  middle  of  the  5th  ceutury. 
It  is  in  the  form  of  a  Latin  cross,  46 
English  ft.  in  length  and  39f  in  width, 
and  is  paved  with  rich  marbles.  The 
cupola  18  entirely  covered  with  mosaics 
of  the  time  of  the  empress,  in  which 
we  see  the  four  evangelists  with  their 
symbols,  and  on  each  of  the  walls  two 
full-length  figures  of  prophets.  The 
arch  over  the  door  has  a  representation 
of  the  Good  Shepherd  ;  behind  the  tomb 
of  the  empress  is  the  Saviour  with  the 
gospels  in  his  hand  :  and  in  each  of  the 
lateral  arches  are  two  stags  at  a  foun- 
tain, surrounded  by  arabesques  and 
other  ornaments.  The  high  altar,  in 
the  centre  of  the  mausoleum,  com- 
posed of  three  massive  slabs  of  Oriental 
alabaster,  was  formerly  in  the  ch.  of 
St.  Vitale,  and  is  referred  to  the  sixth 
century.  It  has  reliefs  of  an  early  Chris- 
tian period.  The  great  object  of  attrac- 
tion however  is  the  massive  marble  sar- 
cophagus which  contains  the  ashes  of 
Galla  Placidia.  It  was  once  covered 
with  silver  plates  ;  but  these  have  dis- 
Bppeared,  together  with  the  other  orna- 
nieuts  with  which  it  was  originally 
decorated.  In  the  side  next  the  wall 
was  formerly  a  small  aperture,  through 
which  the  body  of  the  empress  might 
be  seen,  sitting  in  a  chair  of  cypnss 
wood,  clothed  in  her  imperial  robes. 
Some  children  having  introduced  a 
lighted  candle,  in  1577,  the  robes  took 
fire,  aud  the  body  was  reduced  to  ashes ; 
since  that  time  the  aperture  has  re- 
mained closed.  In  the  recess  on  the  rt. 
side  of  the  Mausoleum  is  another  mar- 
iile  sarcophagus  with  Christian  sym- 
l)ols,  which  contains  the  remains  of  the 
Emperor  Houorius  II.,  the  brother  of 
Galla  Placidia;  and  on  the  I.  is  that 
of  Constautius  111,,  her  second  hus- 
band, and  the  father  of  Valentinian  III. 
On  each  side  of  the  entrance  door  are 
t  wo  smaller  sarcophagi,  said  to  cor  tain 
the  remains  of  the  tutors  of  Valenti- 
nian, and  of  Honoria,  his  sister.  These 
sarcophagi  are  the  only  tombs  of  the 
Ceesars,  oriental  or  occidental,  which 
now  remain  in  their  original  places.  The 
mausoleum  of  Galla  Placidia  stands 
as  a  monument  of  the  dreadful   ca- 


tastrophes of  the  Lower  Empire.  This 
daughter  of  Theodosius  the  Great, 
sister  of  Houorius,  mother  of  Valen- 
tinian  III.,  was  bom  at  Constan- 
tinople, and  died  at  Kome,  was  a 
slave  twice,  a  queen,  an  empress ;  first 
the  wife  of  the  King  of  the  Goths, 
Alaric's  brother-in-law,  who  fell  in  love 
with  his  captive,  and  afterwards  of  one 
of  her  brother's  generals,  whom  she 
was  equally  successful  in  subjecting  to 
her  will :  a  talented  woman,  but  without 
generosity  or  greatness,  who  hastened 
the  fall  of  the  empire — whose  ambition 
and  vices  have  obscured  and,  as  it  were, 
polluted  her  misfortunes. 

Palace  of  TheodorxCy  in  the  Corso  lead* 
ing  from  the  Porta  Serrata  to  the  P. 
Nuova,  and  near  the  ch.of  St.  ApoUinare. 
Of  the  palace  of  the  Gothic  king,  which 
served  as  the  residence  of  his  successors, 
of  the  Exarchs,  and  of  the  Lombard 
kings,  the  only  portion  remaining  is  a 
high  wall,  in  the  upper  part  of  which  are 
eight  small  marble  columns,  supporting 
round  arches  aud  a  wide  recess  over 
the  entrance  gate.  On  one  side  of  the 
latter  is  a  large  porphyry  urn  let  into  the 
wall,  on  which  an  inscription  was  placed 
in  1564,  stating  that  it  formerly  con- 
tained the  ashes  of  Theodoric,  and  that 
it  was  originally  placed  on  the  top  of 
his  mausoleum.  Most  antiquaHes,  how- 
ever, now  consider  that  it  was  a 
bath;  the  only  argument  in  favour 
of  its  having  been  the  sarcophagvis 
of  Theodoric  is  that  it  was  found  near 
his  mausoleum.  The  palace  was  chiefly 
ruined  by  Charlemagne,  who,  with  the 
consent  of  the  pope,  carried  away  its 
ornaments  and  mosaics,  and  removed 
to  France  the  equestrian  statue  of  the 
king  which  stood  near  it. 

The  Tomb  of  Dante,  on  one  side  of  the 
Ch.  of  S.  Francesco,  and  in  the  str«'et 
which  bears  the  name  of  the  poet. — The 
key  is  kept  at  the  Palazzo  Pubblico,  the 
Custode  of  which  will  open  it,  and  of 
course  expect  his  fee.  Of  all  the  monu- 
ments of  iiavenna,  there  is  none  which 
excites  a  more  profound  interest  than  the 
tomb  of  Dante.  In  spite  of  the  taste 
of  the  building,  it  is  impossible  to 
approach  the  last  resting-place  of  the 


Ro:vtAGNA. 


Boute  69a. — Ravenna — Tomb  of  Dante, 


655 


great  poet  without  feeling  that  it  is 
one  of  the  most  hallowed  monuments 
of  Italy. 

••  Ungrateful  Florence  I  Dante  sleeps  afar, 
Like  Scipio,  burled  by  the  upbraiding  shore ; 
Thy  factions,  in  their  worse  than  dvil  war» 
Proscribed  the  hard,  whose  name  for  evermore 
Their  children's  children  would  in  vain  adore 
WiUi  the  remorse  of  ages ;  and  the  crown 
Which  Petrarch's  laureate  brow  supremely 

wore. 
Upon  a  far  and  foreign  soil  had  grown. 
His  life,  his  fame,  his  grave,  though  rifled — 

not  thine  own."  Byron. 

The  remains  of  the  poet,  who  died 
here  on  the  14th  Sept  1821,  at  the  age 
of  56,  were  originally  interred  in  the 
ch.  of  San  Francesco;  but  on  the  ex- 
pulsion of  his  patron  Guido  Novella  da 
Polenta  from  Ravenna,  they  were  with 
difficulty  protected  from  the  persecu- 
tion of  the  Florentines  and  the  excom- 
munication   of   the    pope.      Cardinal 
Bertrando  del   Poggetto,  legate  of  la 
Romagna  for    Pope  John    XX 11.,  or- 
dered his  bones  to  be  burnt  with  his 
^-act  on  Monarchy,  and  they  narrowly 
escaped  the  profanation  of  a  disinter- 
ment.    In  1483  Bernardo  Bembo,  then 
Podesta  of  Ravenna  for  the  republic  of 
Venice,   and  father  of  the  celebrated 
cardinal,  did  honour  to  the  memory  of 
the  poet  by  erecting  a  mausoleum  on 
the  present  site,  from  the  designs  of 
Pietro  Lombardo.    In  1692  this  mpuu^ 
ment  was  repaired  and  restored  at  the 
public  expense   by  Cardinal  Corsi  of 
Florence,  and   rebuilt  in    its  present 
form  in  1780,  at  the  cost  of  Cardinal 
Valenti  Gonzaga,  legate  of  Emilia.     It 
is  a  square  edifice,  with  a  small  dome, 
internally  decorated  with  stucco  orna- 
ments little  worthv  of  such  a  sepul- 
chre.    On  the  vault  of  the  cupola  are 
four    medallions    of  Virgil,    Brunetto 
Latini  (the  master  of  the  poet).   Can 
Grande  della  Scala,  and  Guido  da  Po- 
lenta, his  protectors  when  in  exile.    On 
the  walls  are  two   Latin  inscriptions, 
one  in  verse,  recording  the  foundation 
by  Bembo,  the  other  the  dedication  of 
Cardinal  Gonzaga  to  the  *'Poet8B  sui 
temporis  primo  restitutori."    Above  the 
marble  sarcophagus  which  contains  tlie 
ashes  of  the  poet  is  a  bas-relief  of  his 
half-figure  by  Lombardo;  he  is  repre- 
sented sitting  at   his  desk  with  his 


book ;  surmounted  by  a  crown  of 
laurel  with  the  motto  Virtuti  et  honori. 
The  inscription  in  Latin  hexametei«  on 
the  urn  is  supposed  to  have  been  written 
by  himself.  Below  it,  in  a  marble  urn,  is 
deposited  a  long  history  in  Latin  of  the  ' 
tomb,  drawn  up  after  the  repairs  by 
Card.  Gonzaga,  to  which  it  is  not  ne- 
cessary to  refer  more  particularly,  as 
all  the  leading  facts  it  records  have 
been  given  above.* 

The  feelings  with  which  this  sepul- 
chre was  visited  by  three  of  the  greatest 
names  in  modem  literature  deserve  to 
be  mentioned.  Chateaubriand  is  said 
to  have  knelt  bareheaded  at  the  door 
before  he  entered ;  Byron  deposited  on 
the  tomb  a  copy  of  his  works ;  and  Al- 
fieri  prostrated  himself  before  it,  and  em- 
bodied his  emotions  in  one  of  the  finest 
sonnets  in  the  Italian  language  : — 

*  Although  it  had  heen  vaguely  suspected 
that  the  remains  of  Dante  no  longer  lay  in  the 
mausoleum  erected  hy  Card.  Valenti  Gonzaga, 
it  was  only  on  the  occasion  of  the  great  sexcen- 
tenary anniversary  of  the  poet'sbirth,  celebrated 
with  sudi  extraordinary  enthusiasm  throughout 
Italy  on  the  14th  of  May,  1865,  iAtAt  this  suspicion 
was  fully  verified.  In  making  some  repairs  on  that 
occasion  round  the  miuasolcum,  by  destroying  a 
wall  in  the  old  chapel  of  Braccioforte,  a  wooden 
box  was  discovered,  bearing  a  double  inscription, 
stating  that  it  contained  the  bones  of  the  poet, 
removed  here  by  the  Ii^riar  Antonio  de*  Santi 
in  Oct.  1677.  On  opening  the  box  these  in- 
scriptions were  fully  verified  in  so  far  that  it 
contained  the  nearly  perfect  slceleton  of  a  man 
of  Dante's  age  at  the  time  of  his  death,  and 
statnre.  It  was  subsequently  ascertained  that  ihe 
urn  in  the  mausoleum  was  empty,  or  only  con- 
tained a  few  small  bones,  and  whi<£  were  wanting 
to  complete  the  skc'leton  in  the  wooden  btix; 
farther  documentary  evidence  has  been  since  pro- 
duced  to  prove  that  these  were  in  all  prubability 
the  remains  of  Dante,  but  no  clue  has  been  yet  dis- 
covered as  to  the  circnmsiances  that  caused  the 
removal,  although  it  is  probable  it  arose  from  the 
fear  of  the  friars  to  whose  care  these  precious 
relics  had  been  intrusted  that  the  Fiorenthies 
might  one  day  have  succeeded  in  getting  back  the 
remains  of  their  great  countryman,  as  they  bad 
attempted  on  three  different  occasions,  and  es- 
pecially in  1519,  when  they  petitioned  Leo  X., 
himself  a  Florentine,  in  a  document  to  which 
the  great  name  of  Michel  Angelo  was  affixed, 
offering  to  erect  a  monument  to  the  Divine  Poet 
in  his  native  town,  with  the  following  cluirac- 
teristic  subcription  : — "  lo  Michelagnolo  schul- 
tore,  il  medessimo  a  vostra  Santita,  supplico  of- 
ferendomi  al  divin  poeta  fore  la  sepultura  nuova 
chon  deccnte  e  in  locbo  onerevole  in  questa 
citta."  llie  bones  of  Dante  were  replaced  in 
Lombardo's  um  in  the  mausoleum  with  great 
pomp  and  exultation,  the  poet  being  now  con- 
sidered ihe  symbol  of  an  United  Italy* 


556 


Boute  89a. — Ravennor-^Lord  Byron. 


Sect.  VII. 


*•  O  gran  padre  Alighier,  se  dftl  del  xnirl 
Me  tuo  discepol  uon  indegno  starmi, 
Dal  cor  traendo  profondi  sospirl, 
Prostrato  Innanzi  a'  tuoi  funerel  marmi,"  See. 

Lord  Byron's  lines  commemorating 
the  tomb  of  the  poet  and  the  monu- 
mental column  of  Gaston  de  Foix  will 
scarcely  fail  to  suggest  themselves  to 
the  reaider : — 

"  I  canter  by  the  spot  eadi  afternoon 

Where  perished  in  his  faifle  the  hero-boy 
Who  lived  too  long  for  men,  but  died  too  soon 

For  human  vanity,  the  young  De  Folxl 
A  broken  pillar,  not  uncouthly  hewn. 

But  which  neglect  is  hastening  to  destroy, 
Records  Ravenna's  carnage  on  its  face. 
While  weeds  and  ordure  rankle  round  the 
base. 

*•  I  pass  each  day  where  Dante's  Ijones  are  laid: 
A  little  cupola,  more  neat  than  solemn. 
Protects  his  dust,  but  reverence  here  is  paid 
To  the  bard's  tomb,  and  not  the  warrior's 
column : 
The  time  must  come  when  both,  alike  decay'd 
The    chieftain's    trophy,   and    the    poet's 
volume, 
Will  sink  where  lie  the  songs  and  wars  of 

Before  Pe'lides'  death,  or  Homer's  birth. 

*•  With  human  blood  that  column  was  cemented. 
With  human  filth  that  column  is  defiled. 
As  if   the  peasant's  coarse  contempt  were 
vented 
To  show  his  loathhig  of  the  spot  he  soil'd : 
Thus  is  the  trophy  used,  and  thus  lamented 
Should  ever  be  those  bloodhounds,  from 
whose  wild 
Instinct  of  gore  and  glory  earth  has  known 
Those  sufferings  Dante  saw  in  hell  alone." 

Near  the  tomb  of  Dante  is  the  house 
occupied  by  Lord  Byron,  whose  name 
and  memory  are  almost  as  much  asso- 
ciated with  Ravenna  as  those  of  the 
great  "Poet-Sire  of  Italy."  He  de- 
clared himself  more  attached  to  Ra- 
venna than  to  any  other  place,  except 
Greece ;  he  praised  "  its  delightful  cli- 
mate,*' and  says  he  was  never  tired  of 
his  rides  in  the  pine-forest ;  he  liked 
Ravenna,  moreover,  because  it  was  out 
of  the  beaten  track  of  travellers,  and 
because  he  found  the  higher  classes  oi 
its  society  well  educated  and  liberal 
beyond  what  was  usually  the  case  in 
other  continental  cities.  He  resided  in 
it  rather  more  than  two  years,  "  and 
quitted  it  with  the  deepest  regret,  and 
with  a  presentiment  that  his  departure 
would  be  the  forerunner  of  a  thousand 
evils.  He  was  continually  i)erforming 
generous  actions :  many  families  owed 


to  him  the  few  prosperous  days  they 
ever  enjoyed:  his  arrival  was  spoken 
of  as  a  piece  of  public  good  fortune, 
and  his  departure  as  a  public  calamity." 
The  house  of  Lord  Byron  now  forms 
No.  295  in  the  Strada  di  Porta  Sisi  ; 
it  was  here  that  our  great  poet  residid 
for  8  months  after  his  arrival  in  Ra- 
venna on  the  10th  of  June,  1819.    Over 
the  entrance  has  been  recently  placed 
the  following  inscription  commemora- 
tive   of   the    fact :  —  "II   x  Giugno 
MDCCCXix,    come    appena    giunse    in 
liavenna,   entrava  questa  casa,  allora 
Grande    Albergo,    e    que    otto    mese 
abitava,  Giorgio  Byron,   Poeta    In- 
glese,  iiieto  delle  Vicinanze  al  Sepol- 
cro  di  Dante,  Impaziente  di  visitare 
r   Antica  Selva,    che    inspire    gia   il 
Divino  e  Giovanni  Boccaccio."     He 
subsequently  removed  to  the  Palazzo 
Guiccioli,  in  the  Via  di  Porta  Adriana 
(No.  328),  where  he  continued  to  re- 
side until  his  departure  for  Pisa  at  the 
end  of  Oct.  1821.     The  *  Prophecy  of 
Dante '  was  composed  here,  at  the  sug- 
gestion of  the  Countess  Guiccioli ;  and 
the  translation  of  the  tale  of '  Francesca 
da  Rimini  *  was  "  executed  at  Ravenna, 
where  five  centuries  before,  and  in  the 
very  house  in  which  the  unfortunate 
lady  was  bom,  Dante's  poem  had  been 
composed."  The  'Morgante  Maggiore,' 

*  Marino  Faliero,*  the  fifth  canto  of 
*Don  Juan,'  *The  Blues,'  *Sardana- 
palus,'    *The    Two    Foscari,'   *Cain,' 

*  Heaven  and  Earth,'  and  the  *  Vision 
of  Judgment,'  were  also  written  during 
his  residence  at 

*'  that  place 
Of  old  renown,  once  In  the  Adrian  sea, 
Ravenna  i  where  from  Dante's  sacred  tomb 
He  had  so  oft,  as  many  a  verse  declares, 
Drawn  inspiration."  *  Rogert. 

Palaces.  —  The  Archhiskop^s  Palace, 
near  the  cathedral,  is  one  of  the  most 
interesting  edifices  in  Ravenna  to  the 
Christian  antiquary.  The  chapel,  still 
used  by  the  archbishops,  is  the  one 
which  was  built  and  used  by  St.  Peter 
Chrysologus  in  the  5th  century,  with- 
out alteration  or  change:  no  profan- 
ing hand  has  yet  been  laid  on  its  altar 
or  mosaics.  The  walls  are  covered 
with  large  slabs  of  marble,  and  the 
ceiling  still  retains  its  mosaics  as  fresh 


"Rom  Any  A..  Route  69a. — Ravenna — Palaces — Library. 


557 


as  when  they  were  first  executed.  In 
the  middle  they  represent  the  symbols 
of  the  evangelists ;  and  below,  arranged 
in  circles,  the  Savioar,  the  apostles,  and 
various  saints.  The  altar  has  some 
mosaics  which  belonged  to  the  tribune 
of  the  cathedral  previous  to  its  re-erec- 
tion. In  one  of  the  halls  of  the  palace 
is  a  collection  of  ancient  Roman  and 
Christian  inscriptions,  with  other  frag- 
ments of  antiquity.  In  the  "  Appart- 
amento  Nobile  "  is  a  bust  of  Cardinal 
Capponi  by  Bernini,  and  one  of  S. 
Apollinaris  by  Thorwaldsen.  On  the 
3rd  floor  is  the  small  Archiepiscopal 
library^  formerly  celebrated  for  its  re- 
cords; but  most  of  these  disappeared, 
during  the  political  calamities  of  the  city. 
It  still,  however,  i*etains  the  celebrated 
MS.  on  papyrus  whose  extraordinary 
size  and  preservation  have  made  it 
known  to  most  literary  antiquaries :  it 
is  a  brief  of  the  12th  century,  by  which 
Pope  Pascal  II.  confirmed  the  privileges 
of  the  archbishops.  The  most  ancient 
diplomas  preserved  in  these  archives 
are  said  to  date  from  the  5th  century. 

Palazzo  del  Govemo,  in  the  Piazza 
Maggiore,  a  building  of  the  17th  cen- 
tury, recently  restor^,  contains  nothing 
to  interest  the  stranger.  The  portico 
is  supported  by  8  granite  columns,  on 
4  of  the  capitals  of  which  is  the  mono- 
gram of  Theodoric. 

Palazzo  Comunale,  in  the  same  Piazza, 
has  marble  busts  of  7  cardinal  legates, 
and  a  portion  of  the  gates  of  Pavia, 
captured  from  that  city  by  the  inhab.  of 
Ravenna.  The  public  archives  formerly 
contained  a  large  collection  of  historical 
documents,  but  most  of  them  have  dis- 
appeared. 

Palazzo  Cavallif  near  the  Theatre; 
the  P,  Lovatellif  opposite  the  Torre 
Publico ;  the  P.  Spreti^  near  Sta.  Maria 
in  Porto,  &c.,  had  all  of  them  small 
galleries  of  paintings.  The  ceiling  of 
the  Pal.  Giulio  Rasponi  (in  the  Via 
SS.  Giov.  e  Paoli,  near  the  Cathedral), 
representing  the  death  of  Camilla,  queen 
of  the  Volsci,  by  Agricola,  is  interesting 
because  the  figure  of  the  queen  is  the 
portrait  of  Queen  Caroline  Murat,  one 
of  whose  daughters'  married  into  the 
Rasponi  family.  The  Galleria  Pasponi, 
liberally  open  to  visitors,  has  a  few 


good  pictures,  amongst  which  may  be 
noticed — Palmezzano,  Christ  on  an  altar 
with  St.  James  of  Compostello,  and  St. 
Sebastian,  a  fine  figure ;  Cotignola,  a  Vir- 
gin and  Child ;  Luiniy  St.  Catherine,  &c. 
There  are  also  some  good  paintings  in 
the  Pal.  Rasponi  delle  Teste,  in  the 
same  quarter  of  the  city. 

The  Biblioteca  Comunale,  forming 
part  of  the  CollegiOy  which  occupies  the 
buildings  of  the  Carthusian  mouastery 
of  Classe,  adjoining  the  ch.  of  St.  Ro- 
mualdo.  The  library  was  founded  by 
the  Abbot  Caueti  in  1714,  and  subse- 
quently enriched  by  private  munificence 
and  by  the  libraries  of  suppressed  con- 
vents. It  consists  of  a  fine  hall,  fol- 
lowed by  several  smaller  ones,  and 
contains  upwards  of  .50,000  volumes, 
700  manuscripts,  and  a  large  collection 
of  first  editions  of  the  15th  centuiy. 
Among  its  MS.  collections,  the  most 
precious  is  the  celebrated  Aristo^ 
phones,  copied  in  the  10th  century  by 
Cyrillus  Machirius,  a  Florentine,  long 
known  as  unique.  It  is  recorded  of  this 
MS.  that  Eugene  Beauhamois  wished 
to  purchase  it;  but  the  inhab.,  being 
resolved  not  to  lose  so  great  a  trea- 
sure, concealed  the  volume.  A  MS. 
of  Dante,  on  vellum,  with  good  initial 
miniatures  of  the  14tli  century  ;  another 
Dante,  of  still  earlier  date;  a  small 
Officium,  most  beautifully  written  on 
parchment,  with  lovely  miniatures  of 
histories  of  Christ,  of  the  14th  centy., 
ending  with  an  invocation  to  all  the 
saints  to  relieve  its  writer  from  his 
worldly  ailments,  amongst  which  his 
toothache  is  particularly  alluded  to; 
and  another  Officium,  with  numerous 
illuminations,  &c.,  on  violet  vellum,  es- 
pecially one  of  the  Crucifixion.  Among 
the  princeps  editions,  which  range 
from  1465  to  1500,  are  the  Decretals 
of  Boniface  VIII,,  on  vellum,  1465 ; 
the  l^liny  the  Younger,  on  vellum,  2 
vols.  Venice,  1468 ;  the  Bible,  Mcith 
miniatures,  on  kid,  1478 ;  the  St.  Au^ 
gustin,  De  Civitafe  Dei,  1468 ;  the 
Dante  ofLodaoico  and  Alberto  Piemontesi, 
1478.  Among  the  miscellaneous  col- 
lection may  iS  noticed,  the  History  of 
the  Old  and  New  Testament,  in  Chinese, 
printed  on  silk,  and  a  series  of  upwards 
of  4000  rolls,  beginning  with  the  11th 


558 


Eoute  69a.-»— J?awnna — Museum — Academy.        Sect*  VIL 


and  ending  with,  the  last  centy.,  chiefly 
relating  to  the  order  of  the  Canons 
of  Sta.  Maria  in  Porto. 

The  Hefettorio  del  Collegio,  a  fine  hall, 
with  good  carved  wood  ceiling  and 
doors,  contains  one  of  the  elder  LunghCs 
best  works,  a  fresco  of  the  Marriage  of 
Cana,  into  which  he  has  introduced 
his  own  portrait,  and  those  of  several 
of  his  Ravennese  cotemporaries.  The 
veil  thrown  over  the  woman  on  the  1. 
of  Christ  was  added  by  his  daughter 
Barbara,  to  satisfy  the  scruples  of  S. 
Carlo  Borromeo,  then  l^egate  here. 

ITie  Museum  consists  of  several  rooms, 
forming  a  suite  to  those  of  the  Library, 
and,  besides  a  good  miscellaneous  col- 
lection of  vases,  idols,  bronzes,  majolica, 
and  carved  work  in  ivory,  contains  a 
rich  cabinet  of  medals,  ancient  and  mo- 
dern. The  ancient  are  arranged  in  3 
classes :  1.  Medals  of  the  free  cities ;  2. 
Consular ;  and  3.  Imperial.  In  the  2nd 
class  is  a  bronze  one  of  Cicero,  struck  by 
the  town  of  Magnesia,  in  Lydia :  it  bears 
on  one  side  his  profile  and  name  in 
Greek  characters,  and  on  the  other  a 
hand  holding  a  crown  with  a  branch  of 
lanr«l,  an  ear  of  com,  a  bough  of  the 
vine  bearing  a  bunch  of  grapes,  with  the 
inscription  in  Greek  "  Theodore  of  the 
Magnesians,  near  Mount  Sipylus."  It 
is  supposed  to  be  an  unique  specimen. 
There  is  a  very  interesting  series  of 
the  coins  of  the  Sovereigns  of  the 
Western  Empire  found  about  Ra- 
venna, especially  golden  ones  of  Galla 
Placidia  with  a  cross  on  the  obverse, 
of  Valentinian  III.,  Anastasius,  He- 
raclius,  &c.,  with  Christian  emblems. 
The  modern  collection  is  also  ar- 
ranged in  3  classes :  1.  Medals  of  the 
Popes  from  Gregory  III. ;  2.  Medals  of 
illustrious  personages  and  of  royal  dynas- 
ties ;  3.  Coins  of  various  Italian  cities. 
In  the  1st  class  is  a  fine  medal  of  Bene- 
dict III.,  interesting  because  it  is  con- 
sidered conclusive  as  to  the  fable  of 
Pope  Joan.  In  the  2nd  class  is  a  com- 
plete series  of  bronze  medals  of  the 
House  of  Medici,  84  in  number,  of  an 
uniform  size.  Among  the  ivories  one 
is  remarkable  as  representing  several  of 
the  miracles  which  are  seen  in  the 
paintings  on  the  Catacombs  at  Rome: 
such  as  Jonas,  the  raising  of  Lazarus, 


the  raising  of  the  Paralytic,  &c.,  with 
two  venerable  figures  in  the  centre. 
The  Museum  also  contains  portions  of 
beautiful  gold  ornaments  of  ancient 
armour,  discovered  some  years  ago  in 
excavating  the  new  docks  on  the  canal ; 
they  are  supposed  to  have  belonged  to 
Odoacer,  whose  tomb  may  have  been 
hereabouts ;  unfortunately  the  greater 
part  of  them  were  melted  down. 

Galleria  Lapidaria, — In  one  of  the 
lower  corridors  of  the  College  have 
been  placed  several  inscriptions,  both 
pagan  and  early  Christian,  most  of 
which  were  found  about  Ravenna ;  and 
a  series  of  Roman  tiles,  or  Signa  le- 
gularia,  bearing  the  makers'  names.  On 
one  of  these  tiles  is  the  impression  of  a 
sandal,  very  like  the  sole  of  a  modem 
shoe  with  its  hob-nails. 

The  Academy  of  the  Fine  Arts,  in  the 
building  adjoining  the  CoUegio,  for- 
merly the  offices  of  the  convent  of 
Classe,  is  an  institution  that  does  honour 
to  its  founder  and  first  director,  Ignazio 
Sarti,  and  to  the  patriotic  and  enlight- 
ened feelings  of  the  citizens.  It  contains 
a  Pinacoteca  or  museum  of  pictures, 
and  a  good  collection  of  plaster  easts 
of  celebrated  masterpieces  of  ancient 
and  modern  sculpture ;  attached  to  it  are 
schools  of  design  for  young  artists,  &c. 
Many  of  the  resident  nobility,  desirous 
of  promoting  the  design,  had  removed 
their  family  collections  from  their 
palaces  and  deposited  them  in  this  public 
museum,  but  most  have  been  since  re- 
turned to  their  owners.  As  a  whole, 
the  Pinacoteca  is  far  behind  those  of 
Ferrara,  Forli,  &c.  The  Municipality 
has  contributed  the  pictures  in  its 
possession.  Among  the  works  it  con- 
tains may  be  mentioned — Daniele  da 
VolterrGy  the  Crucifixion  ;  Luca  Lungki^ 
the  Holy  Family,  Portrait  called 
erroneously  of  CharlesV.,  the  Deposi- 
tion, the  Nativity,  Virgin  and  Child 
throned,  Portrait  of  Giovanni  Arri- 
gone  (one  of  Lunghi^s  best  works)  ; 
Vasarij  the  Deposition  ;  Luca  Giordano, 
the  Flight  out  of  Egypt;  Francesco 
da  Cotignola,  the  Virgin  throned; 
fnnocenzo  da  Imola^  Descent  of  the 
Holy  Spirit;  Vandevelde  and  Berghem, 
landscapes.  There  are  a  great  number 
of  small  paintings  of  the   Byzantine 


BOMAQNA. 


R(mte  69 A . — Bavenna —  Gates — Forb^ess. 


559 


school.  In  one  of  the  rooms  on  the 
upper  floor  is  a  fine  mosaic  pavement, 
foand  at  Classe,  with  a  vase  of  flowers 
and  peacocks  in  the  centre,  and  the 
beautiful  recumbent  statue  of  Guidar- 
ello  Guidarelli,  called  Bracciaforte,  for- 
merly in  the  church  of  San  Francesco. 

The  Hospital^  formerly  the  convent 
of  S.  Giovanni  Evangelista,  near  the 
Porta  Serrata,  was  founded  by  Arch- 
bishop Codronchi  at  his  own  expense, 
in  order  to  supersede  the  old  hospital 
in  the  Via  del  Griotto.  In  the  court 
is  a  cistern  said  to  have  been  designed 
by  Michel  Angelo. 

Theatre. — A  handsome  one,  the  Teatro 
Aliffhieri,  was  opened  in  1850,  near 
the  Piazza  Maggiore. 

The  Piazza  Maggiore,  supposed  to 
correspond  with  the  ancient  Forum, 
has  2  granite  columns  erected  by  the 
Venetians,  one  of  which  bears  the 
statue  of  S.  ApoUinaris  by  Pietro  Lorn- 
bardo;  the  other  S.  Vitalis  by  Cle- 
mente  Molli,  which  replaced  a  figure 
of  St.  Mark  by  Lombardo,  in  liiOg, 
when  Ravenna  was  restored  to  the 
Church.  Between  them  is  the  sitting 
statue  of  Clement  XII.,  with  an  in- 
scription recording  that  it  was  erected 
by  the  "  S.  P.  Q."  of  Ravenna,  in  grati- 
tude for  the  service  rendered  by  that 
pontiff  in  diverting  the  channel  of  the 
Konco  and  Montone,  from  the  inunda- 
tions of  which  the  city  was  threatened. 
At  one  extremity  of  the  Piazza  is  the 
Palazzo  Communativo,  or  Guildhall ;  at 
the  other  the  Dogana,  formerly  a  ch. 
Between  these  two,  forming  one  of  the 
long  sides  of  the  Piazza,  are  the  Palazzo 
GovemativOf  the  seat  of  the  Provincial 
Administration,  and  an  open  portico  of 
wide  arches  on  ancient  columns  of  gra- 
nite, with  ill-adapted  marble  capitals, 
upon  some  of  which  is  a  monogram 
believed  to  be  that  of  I'heodoric 

The  Piazza  dell*  Aquila  is  so  called 
from  the  column  of  grey  granite  sur- 
mounted by  an  ea^e,  the  armorial 
device  of  Cardinal  Caetani,  in  whose 
honour  it  was  erected  in  1609. 

The  Piazza  del  Duovno  has  a  similar 
column  of  grey  granite,    surmounted 


with  a  statue  of  the  Virgin,  placed  there 
in  1659. 

The  Torre  del  Pvbblico,  near  the 
Piazza  Maggiore,  a  large  square  lean- 
ing tower,  will  not  fail  to  attract  the 
notice  of  the  stranger :  nothing  is 
known  of  its  history  or  origin. 

The  Six  Gates  of  Ravenna  merit 
notice;  the  Porta  Adriana,  at  the  W. 
extremity  of  the  city,  a  handsome  en- 
trance of  the  Doric  order,  was  erected  in 
1585,  on  the  supposed  site  of  the  famous 
Porta  Aurea  built  under  Claudian  and 
ruined  by  the  Emperor  Frederick  II. 
It  derives  its  name,  from  being  placed 
on  the  road  leading  to  Adria.  The  Porta 
Alberoni,  on  the  E.,  also  called  P. 
Corsini  in  honour  of  Clement  XII.,  was 
built  by  Cardinal  Alberoni  in  1739.' 
Immediately  outside  of  it  are  the  modern 
port  of  Ravenna,  and  the  road  leading  to 
the  harbour  on  the  Adriatic  and  to  the 
Pineta.  On  the  S.  side  of  the  town  the 
Porta  S,  Mamante,  of  the  Tuscan  order, 
so  called  from  a  neighbouring  monastery 
dedicated  to  S.  Mama,  was  built  in 
1612,  and  called  P.  Borghesia,  in  honour 
of  Paul  V.  Near  this  the  French  army 
of  1512  effected  the  breach  in  the  walls 
by  which  they  entered  and  sacked  the 
city.  The  Porta  Nvova,  designed  by 
Bernini,  in  the  Corinthian  order,  occu- 
pies the  site  of  the  P.  San  Lorenzo, 
rebuilt  in  1653  under  the  name  of  P. 
Pamfilia,  in  honour  of  Innocent  X., 
by  whose  arms  it  is  surmounted.  The 
road  from  it  leads  through  the  Borgo 
of  Porta  Nuova  to  the  public  promenade, 
the  Ponte  Nuovo,  the  Basilica  of  S. 
Apollinare  in  Classe,  and  to  Rimini. 
The  Porta  Sisi,  in  the  Doric  style,  was 
rebuilt  in  its  present  form  in  1568,  on 
the  site  of  an  ancient  gateway,  the 
name  of  which  is  unknown.  The  Po7'ta 
Serrata^  at  the  N.  extremity,  so  called 
because  it  was  closed  by  the  Venetians 
during  their  possession  of  Ravenna, 
was  re-opened  by  Julius  II.  under  the 
name  of  P.  Giulia. 

The  Fortress  of  Ravenna  was  erected 
by  the  Venetians  in  1457,  and  then  es- 
teemed one  of  the  strongest  in  Italy : 
it  was  partly  demolished  in  1735  to 
furnish  materials  for  the  Ponte  Nnovo 
over  the  united  stream  of  the  Ronco  and 


500 


Route  69a. — Eavenna — Tomb  of  Theodoric,  Sect.  VIL 


Montone,  and  little  now  remains  but  the 
foundations. 

The  Fort  of  Ravenna^  immediately 
outside  of  the  Porta  Alberoni,  is  much 
frequented  by  the  coasting  craft  of  the 
Adriatic.  It  consists  of  a  long  basin, 
with  quays  on  either  side  ;  from  it 
commences  the  canal  that  leads  to  the 
Adriatic  The  old  Porto  Candiano 
being  rendered  useless  by  the  diversion 
of  the  Ronco  and  Montone,  the  Naviglio 
or  Canal  was  opened  in  1737,  for  the 
purpose  of  effecting  a  direct  communi- 
cation with  the  sea  at  the  new  Porto 
Corsini,  The  length  of  this  canal  is 
about  7  miles,  and  a  broad  road  lias 
been  made  along  its  rt.  bank,  which 
contributes  much  to  the  accommodation 
of  the  city.  Boats  may  be  hired  here 
for  the  passage  by  the  canals  to  Chiog> 
gia  or  Venice.    (See  Rte.  70.) 

About  half  a  mile  beyond  the  Porta 
Serrata,  taking  the  road  on  the  rt 
immediately  beyond  the  gate,  is  the 
Mausoleum  of  TheodoHCf  more  generally 
known  as  the  Rotonda :  it  was  erected  by 
Theodoric  himself,  in  the  beginning  of 
the  6th  cent.  On  the  expulsion  of  the 
Arians,  the  zeal  of  the  Church  in  pro- 
moting the  Catholic  worship  ejected  the 
ashes  of  the  king  as  an  Arian  heretic, 
and  despoiled  his  sepulchre  of  its  orna- 
ments. It  has  successively  borne  the 
names  of  Sta.  Maria  in  Memoriam  Regis, 
of  Sta,  Maria  ad  Farum,  and  Sta. 
Maria  Rotonda.  It  is  a  rotunda,  built  of 
blocks  of  limestone  from  Istria,  resting 
on  a  decagonal  basement,  each  side  of 
which  has  a  recess  surmounted  by 
an  arch  formed  of  1 1  blocks  of  stone 
curiously  notched  into  each  other.  A 
double  oblique  flight  of  steps  leads  to 
the  upper  story,  or  sepulchral  chamber ; 
they  were  added  to  the  building  in  1 780. 
The  upper  story  is  also  decagonal  ex- 
ternally, and  appears  to  have  been  sur- 
rounded by  columns  forming  a  circular 
portico,  several  of  the  bases  of  which 
were  discovered  in  digging  out  the 
ditch  that  now  surrounds  the  building. 
In  one  of  the  sides  is  the  door.  Over  this 
is  a  broad  projecting  band  encircling 
the  monument,  above  which  is  a  row 
of  small  windows,  the  whole  sur- 
mounted by  a  massive  cornice,  with 
rudely-sculptured  reliefs.     The  vault 


stones  of  the  doorway  are  curiously 
notched   into  each    other,    fbrming  a 
straight  arch  or  lintel.     The    roof  is 
fonned  by  a  single  block  of  liniestone 
containing  fossil  shells,  36  feet  in  its 
internal  diameter,  hollowed  out  to  the 
depth  of  10,  in  the  shape  of  an  inverted 
calotte  or  shallow  bowl;  the  thickness 
of  the  centre  is  about  4  feet,  and  of 
the  edges  about  2  feet  9  inches.     The 
weight  of  this  enormous  mass  is  esti- 
mated at  above  200  tons.     On  the  out- 
side are  12  pointed    projections   per- 
forated   as   if  designed    for    handles: 
they  bear  the  names  of  the  12  apostles, 
but  it  is  difficult  to  conceive  how  any 
statues    could   have    stood   on   them; 
they  more  probably  served  in  moving 
this  huge  solid  mass  of  Istrian  marble, 
— indeed,  these  names  look  compara- 
tively recent.    The  summit  is  flat,  and 
upon  it  may  have  stood  a  statue  of  the 
Gothic  king.    It  is  now  divided  in  to  two 
unequal  portions  by  a  large  crack,  pro- 
duced, it  is  supposed,  by  lightning.  The 
chamber  in  the  basement  is  filled  with 
water  to  the  depth  of  4  feet,  so  that, 
notwithstanding  the  excavations  of  late 
years,  a  considerable  portion  of  its  lower 
story  and  of  the  fine  arched  niches  that 
encircle  it  still  remain  buried.    The  in- 
terior of  the  upper  chamber  is  circular, 
with  a    niche  opposite    the  door,   in 
which  probably  stood  a  sepulchral  urn, 
although  when  carefully  examined  on 
the  outside  it   appears  to  have   been 
added  after  the  mausoleum  was  finished. 
The  chamber  in  the  basement  is  in  the 
form  of  a  Greek  cross ;  the  fine  door 
opening  into  it,  as  well  as  that  to  the 
sepulchral  one  above,  is  turned  towards 
the  west. 

About  2  m.  from  the  city,  beyond 
the  Porta  Alberoni,  is  the  Gothic  Ch,  of 
Sta.  Maria  in  Porto  Faori,  built  towards 
the  end  of  the  llth  century  by  the 
Beato  Pietro  Onesti,  called  //  Pecca^ 
tore,  in  fulfilment  of  a  vow  to  the 
Virgin  made  during  a  storm  at  sea. 
The  1.  nave  on  entering  the  ch.  con- 
tains the  ancient  sarcophagus  in  which 
the  body  of  the  founder  was  de- 
posited in  1119.  The  chief  interest 
of  this  ch.  arises  from  the  frescoes 
in  its  choir  attributed  erroneously 
to   Giotto,  although  probably  by  some' 


BoMAONA.       Boute69A., — Eavsrma — BasUka  of  S,  Apdlware,        561 


of  his  papils,  in  noticing  which 
Lanzi  justly  alludes  to  the  honour 
conferred  upon  Bavenna  by  the  family 
of  the  Polentas,  in  leaving  behind  them 
at  their  fall  the  memory  of  the  two  great 
names  of  Dante  and  Giotto.  It  was  be- 
lieved that  the  entire  ch.  was  covered 
ivith  the  frescoes  of  that  great  master ; 
and  the  lateral  chapels,  part  of  the 
1.  wall  of  the  middle  aisle,  and  other 
parts  of  the  ch.,  still  retain  sufficient  to 
give  some  weight  to  the  belief  that 
they  are  by  his  scholars.  The  Choir 
is  completely  covered  with  them;  on 
the  1.  wall  are  the  Nativity,  and  the 
Presentation  of  the  Virgin ;  the  rt.  wall 
contains  the  Death,  Assumption,  and 
Coronation  of  the  Virgin,  and  the 
Massacre  of  the  Innocents.  The  fres- 
coes of  the  tribune  represent  various 
events  in  the  life  of  the  Saviour;  under 
the  arches  are  different  Fathers  and 
Martyrs ;  and  on  the  ceiling  are  the  four 
Evangelists  with  their  symbols,  and  four 
Doctors  of  the  Church.  The  quadran- 
gular basement  of  the  Campanile  is 
considered  to  be  the  lower  part  of  the 
pharos  or  Torre  Farea,  the  ancient 
lighthouse  of  the  port,  which  is  sup- 
posed to  have  been  situated  at  this  spot ; 
from  this  circumstance  the  ch.  derives 
the  nameof"ci?tPor^o  without  the  walls.** 
Basilica  of  8,  Apollinare  in  Classe, — 
No  traveller  should  leave  Ravenna 
without  visiting  this  magnificent  ba- 
silica, which  is  a  purer  specimen  of 
Christian  art  than  any  which  can  be 
found  even  in  Home.  It  lies  on  the 
road  to  Rimini,  and  may  therefore  be 
visited  by  persons  proceeding  there;  but 
the  distance  from  the  city-gate  (Porta 
Nuova),  about  2}  m.,  will  not  deter 
the  traveller  interested  in  early  Chris- 
tian antiquities  &om  devoting  an  hour 
or  two  to  it,  sis  a  separate  excursion. 
About  J  m.  beyond  the  gate,  after  pass- 
ing the  Borgo,  a  Greek  cross,  called  la 
CroceitOf  on  a  small  fluted  marbleeolumn, 
in  the  public  walk,  marks  the  site  of 
the  once  splendid  Basilica  of  S.  Lauren- 
tins  in  Cesarea^  founded  (a.d.  .3%)  by 
Lauritius,  chamberlain  of  the  Emperor 
Honorius,  and  destroyed  in  15.53  to 
supply  materials  for  the  ch.  of  Sta. 
Maria  in  Porto  within  the  city.  This 
act  of  spoliation  was  opposed  by  the 


citizens ;  but  the  monks  to  whom  the 
basilica  belonged  had  obtained  the 
consent  of  the  pope,  and  the  cardinal 
legate.  Capo  di  Ferro,  completed  the 
work  of  Vandalism  by  sending  all  its 
columns  excepting  the  two  now  on  the 
fagade  of  Sta.  Maria  in  Porto,  together 
with  its  precious  marbles,  to  Rome.  The 
ancient  basilica  was  the  last  relic  of  the 
city  of  Cesarea,  which  had  existed  from 
the  time  of  Augustus.  A  short  distance 
beyond,  the  united  stream  of  the  Ronco 
and  Montone  is  crossed  by  the  Ponte 
NuotOf  a  bridge  of  5  arches,  erected 
whilst  Cardinal  Alberoni  was  legate 
of  Romagna.  From  this  bridge  the 
view  is  extremely  interesting,  embrac- 
ing from  the  Alps  to  the  Apennines, 
with  the  tower  of  Santa  Maria  in  Porto 
fuori  and  the  Pineta  on  the  1.,  and  the 
ch.  of  S.  Apollinare  to  the  S.,  surrounded 
\>y  rice-fields  and  marshes.  The  road 
crosses  the  marshy  plain  for  about  1 J 
m. ;  and  about  I  m.  from  the  pine-forest 
is  S.  Apollinare  in  Classe.  This  grand 
basilica  was  erected  in  534,  by  Julianus 
Argentarius,  on  the  site  of  a  temple  of 
Apollo,  and  was  consecrated  by  airch- 
bishop  St.  Maximianus  in  549.  It  for- 
merly had  a  quadriporticus  in  front, 
but  of  which  no  portion  now  remains. 
It  is  built  of  thin  bricks  or  tiles,  in  the 
mannei  of  Roman  edifices  of  classical 
times.  Over  the  door  may  be  seen  the 
br(Hize  hooks  used  to  sustain  the  awn- 
ing on  festivals.  The  interior,  172f 
ft.  long  by  92f  wide,  is  divided  by  24 
elegant  columns  of  grey  Cipolino  marble 
into  a  nave  and  two  aisles  of  lofty  and 
imposing  proportions.  These  columns, 
which  rest  on  elegant  square  pedestals, 
are  surmounted  by  complicated  capitals, 
on  which  again  rest  quadrangular  im- 
posts,with  crosses  sculptured  on  the  sides 
towards  the  nave,  and  support  round- 
headed  arches  and  a  wall,  with  double 
semicircular  windows. .  From  the  nave 
a  flight  of  broad  steps  leads  to  the  high 
altar,  placed  above  a  crypt,  and-  to  the 
choir  and  tribune,  which  is  circular  in- 
ternally, and  polygonal  on  the  outside. 
The  floor  of  the  nave  is  green  with  damp, 
and  many  times  in  the  year  the  subter- 
ranean chapel  of  the  saint  is  filled  with 
water.  The  walls  of  the  nave,  and 
part  of  those  of  the  aisles,  are  decorated 


502      Route  69 A^. -^Ravenna — BusUica  of  S.  ApoUmare,      Sect.  VII, 


with  a  chronological  series  of  portraits 
of  the  bishops  and  archbishops  of  Ra- 
venna, beginning  with  St.  ApoUiuaris 
of  Antioch,  a  follower  of  St.  Peter,  who 
suffered  martyrdom  under  Vespasian, 
A.D.  74.  These  portraits  were  painted 
at  a  comparatively  modem  period ; 
they  come  down  in  unbroken  succes- 
sion to  the  last  archbishop,  who  is  the 
I29th  prelate  from  the  commencement. 
They  have  a  common  character,  and  do 
not  seem  to  have  been  executed  for  the 
archbishops  successively.  The  mosaics 
of  the  nave,  of  which  these  portraits 
have  taken  the  place,  disappeared  with 
the  marbles  which  once  covered  the 
walls  of  the  aisles,  when  the  latter 
were  carried  off  by  Sigismundo  Mala- 
testa,  to  adorn  the  ch.  of  S.  Francesco, 
at  Rimini.  In  the  middle  of  the 
nave  is  a  small  marble  altar,  dedi- 
cated to  the  Virgin,  **  Martyrum  Re- 
ginsB,"  by  St.  Maximianus,  in  the  6th 
century;  beneath  lay  the  body  of  St. 
Apollinaris,  until  removed  to  the  crypt 
in  1173.  In  the  I.  aisle  are  4  marble 
sarcophagi,  covered  with  bas-reliefs 
and  Christian  symbols,  in  which  are 
buried  4  of  the  archbishops  of  Ravenna; 
of  two  only  the  owners  are  known — 
the  first  to  St.  Felix,  with  an  inscrip- 
tion, the  fourth  to  Johannes  V.  On 
the  wall  there  is  an  inscription,  which 
seems  not  to  be  older  than  the  18th  cen- 
tury, beginning,  "OthoIII.  Rom.  Imp.," 
recording,  as  a  proof  of  his  remorse 
for  the  murder  of  Crescentius,  "ob 
patrata  crimina,"  he  walked  barefooted 
from  Rome  to  Nfonte  Gargano,  and 
passed  the  40  days  of  Lent  in  penance 
m  this  basilica,  ''expiating  his  sins  with 
sackcloth  and  voluntaiy  scourging.**  At 
the  extremity  of  the  1.  aisle  is  the  un- 
decorated  chapel  of  the  Holy  Cross,  and 
near  its  entrance  a  very  curious  taber- 
nacle of  the  9  th  centy.,  over  the  altar 
of  S.  Felicola,  raised  by  a  certain 
Petrus,  a  Presbyter.  In  tJie  rt,  aisle 
are  4  sarcophagi,  similar  to  those  just 
described,  and  likewise  containing  the 
remains  of  early  archbishops  of  the 
diocese,  Graziosus  of  the  8th  and  Theo- 
dosius  of  the  7th  century.  All  these 
tombs  were  placed  in  the  early  ages 
of  the  Church   under  the  portico   in 


their  present  sites  long  subsequently. 
An   inscription    in    the  wall    of   this 
aisle  records  that  the  body  of  St.  Apol- 
Unaris  formerly  was  deposited  behind 
a  grating  in  it.     On  each  side  of  the 
grand   entrance   is  a    sarcophagus  of 
marble,  larger  than  the  preceding,  bat 
covered  with    similar  ornaments  and 
symbols.      The    high    altar,    beneath 
which  rests  the  body  of  the  saint,  is' 
rich  in  marbles  and  other  ornaments ; 
the  modem  canopy  over  it  is  supported 
by  4  columns  of  the  rare  marble  known 
by  the  modern  name  of  bianco  e  nero 
antico.     The  tribune,  and  the  arch  in 
front  of  it,  are  covered  with  mosaics 
of  the  6th  century,  in  fine  preservation. 
The    upper  part  on  the  vault   repre- 
sents the  Transfiguration ;  the  hand  of 
the  Almighty  is  seen  pointing  to  a  small 
figure  of  the  Saviour  introduced  into* 
the  centre  of  a  large  cross,  surrounded - 
by  a  blue  circle  studded  with  stars.   On 
the  top  of  the  cross  are  the  5  Greek 
letters  expressing,  ''Jesus  Christ,  the- 
Saviour,   the   Son  of  God."     On   the 
arms  are  the  Alpha  and  Omega;  and' 
at  the  foot  the  words,  **  Salus  Mundl." 
Outside  the  circle,  and  on  either  side 
of  the  hand,   are  Moses  and  Elijaii;' 
and  below  are  3  sheep,  indicating  the* 
3  apostles  —  Peter,  James,  and  John, 
who    witnessed    the    Transfiguration. 
In  the  middle  mos^c  is  St.  Apollinaris, 
in  his  episcopal  robes,  preaching  to  a 
fiock  of  sheep,  a  common  emblem  of  a 
Christian  congregation.     Between  the 
windows  are  the  portraits  of  S.  Ecclesius, 
S.  Severus,  S.  Ursus,  and  S.  Ursicinus, 
in  pontifical  rohes,  in  the  act  of  bless- 
ing the  people.     On  the  1.  hand  wall- 
is    represented  Archbishop  Reparatus 
obtaining  privileges  for  his  diocese  from 
the  Emperor  Constantinus  Pogonotus, 
who  is  seen  in  the  centre  of  the  compo- 
sition, with  Reparatus  attended  by  3 
ecclesiastics,    to  whom    the  Emperor^ 
delivers  a  scroll,  on  which  is  inscribed 
the  word  Privilegium,    On  the  rt.  wall 
the  sacrifices  of  the  Old  Law :  Abel, 
who    offens    the    lamb,    Melchisedek 
the    bread   and   wine,   and   Abraham 
his    son    Isaac.      On  the    arch  is  a 
series  of  5  mosaics ;  that  in  the  middle 
represents  the  Saviour,  and  the  symbols 


the   fore  court,  and  were  removed  to  {of  the  4  evangelists;  in  the  secondare 


ROMACNA. 


Route  69a. — Ravenna — ITte  Pineta. 


563 


seen  the  cities  of  Bethlehem  and  Jern- 
salem,  from  which  a  number  of  the 
faithful,  under  the  form  of  sheep,  are 
ascending  towards  our  Lord;  in  the 
third  is  a  palm,  as  a  symbol  of  victory ; 
the  fourth  contains  the  archangels  Mi- 
chael and  Gabriel ;  and  the  fifth,  half- 
figures  of  St.  Matthew  and  St.  Luke ; 
the  lower  edge  of  the  arch  has  hand- 
some mosaics  of  arabesque  ornaments. 
In  the  crypt  beneath  the  choir,  to 
which  the  entrance  is  by  two  passages 
from  the  base  of  the  stairs,  is  the  se- 
pulchral urn  of  St  Apollinaris.  This 
urn  contained  the  remains  of  the  saint 
until  172.5,  when  they  were  placed  be- 
neath the  high  altar.  The  cr}-pt  is 
damp  and  green  from  being  frequently 
inundated.  The  stone  book  by  the  side, 
near  one  of  the  doors  leading  to  thecrypt, 
is  called  the  breviary  of  Gregory  the 
Great.  The  Bell-tower  of  St.  Apol- 
linare  is  a  fine  example  of  those  circular 
Campaniles  which  are  so  peculiar  to 
Ravenna;  it  is  120  ft.  high  and  33 
in  diameter  at  the  base,-  and  can 
be  ascended  (through  the  sacristy)  by 
a  series  of  ladders  to  a  height  of  100 
f«et ;  from  the  top  the  view  is  very  fine, 
embracing  the  pine  forest  and  the  sea 
beyond  to  the  E. ;  to  the  S.  the  Apen- 
nines, with  Cesena  and  Bertinoro  at 
their  base ;  and,  in  fine  weather,  the 
Alps  of  the  Tyrol  and  Styria  on  the  N. 
This  tower  contains  only  two  small 
bells.     It  is  built  entirely  of  brick. 

The  ancient  town  of  Ciassis,  of  which 
this  noble  basilica  is  the  representative, 
was  one  of  the  3  quarters  of  Havenna 
in  the  time  of  Augustus.  It  was,  as  its 
name  impoiis,  the  station  of  the  Roman 
fieet  and  then  close  to  the  sea,  which  is 
now  4  m.  distant.  With  the  exception 
of  the  present  ch.,  the  town  was  totally 
destroyed  in  728  by  Liutprand,  king 
of  the  Lombards.  Attached  to  the 
ch.  are  some  farm-buildings,  through 
which  admittance  to  the  Basilica  will  be 
obtained,  as  it  is  only  open  to  the  public 
at  a  very  early  hour,  when  a  priest  from 
Bavenna  comes  daily  to  celebrate  i^iass. 

The  celebrated  Pineta^  or  Fine  {Finns 
Finea)  Forest,  is  reached  not  far  beyond 
the  basilica,  and  the  road  to  Rimini  skirts 
it  as  £ur  as  Cervia,  although  the  most 
convenient  .will  be  that  which  passes  by 


the  Tomb  of  Theodoric,  or  through 
the  Porta  Alberoni,  reaching  it  beyond 
the  ch.  of  Sta.  Maria  in  Porto  fuori. 
This  venerable  forest  extends  along  the 
shores  of  the  Adriatic  for  a  distance  of 
25  m.,  from  the  Lamone  N.  of  Ravenna 
to  Cervia  on  the  S.,  and  covers  a  sandy 
tract,  varying  in  breadth  from  1  to  3  m., 
thrown  up  by  the  sea,,  and  separating 
it,  as  along  the  Pontine  marshes,  from 
the  inundated  region  on  the  W.  It 
affords  abundant  sport ;  and  the  pro- 
duce of  its  cones,  said  to  average  2000 
rubbii  annually,  yields  a  considerable 
revenue.  No  forest  is  more  renowned 
in  classical  and  poetical  interest:  its 
praises  have  been  sung  by  Dante,  Boc- 
caccio, Dry  den,  and  Byron;  it  supplied. 
Rome  with  timber  for  her  fleets ;  and . 
upon  the  masts  which  it  produced  the 
banner  of  Venice  floated  in  the  days  of 
her  supremacy.  One  part  of  the  forest 
still  retains  the  name  of  the  Vicolo  de' 
Foeti,  from  a  tradition  that  it  is  the 
spot  where  Dante  loved  to  meditate : — 

"  Tal,  qual  di  ramo  iu  ramo  si  racooglie, 
Per  la  pineta  in  »ul  lito  di  Chiassi, 
Quando  £olo  sdrocco  for  disdoglie." 

Furg.  xxviii.  20. 

■ 

Boccaccio  made  the  Pineta  the  scene 
of  his  singular  tale  Nostagio  degli 
Onesti;  the  incidents  of  which,  ending 
in  the  amorous  conversion  of  the  ladies 
of  Ravenna,  have  been  made  familiar 
to  the  English  reader  by  Dry  den's 
adoption  of  them  in  his  Theodore  and 
J/onoria,  Count  Gamba  relates  that 
the  first  time  he  had  a  conversation 
with  Lord  Byron  on  the  subject  of  re- 
ligion was  while  riding  through  this 
forest  in  1820.  **  The  scene,"  he  says, 
**  invited  to  religious  meditation ;  it 
was  a  fine  day  in  spring.  *  How,'  said 
Byron,  *  raising  our  eyes  to  heaven, . 
or  directing  them  to  the  earth,  can  we 
doubt  of  the  existence  of  God?— or 
how,  turning  them  to  what  is  within 
us,  can  we  doubt  that  there  is  some- 
thing more  noble  and  durable  than  the 
clay  of  which  we  are  formed  ?  *  **  The 
Pineta  inspired  also  those  beautiful 
lines  in  the  3rd  canto  of  Don  Juan : — 

"  Sweet  honr  of  twilight!— in  tlie  solitude 
Of  the  pine-forest,  and  the  silent  shore 
Which  bounds  Kavenna's  immemorial  wood« 
Rooted  where  ouoe  the  Adrian  wave  ftow'd 
o'er. 


564 


Eoute  69a. — Bavenna — Colonna  de*  Francesi,       Sect  VII. 


To  where  the  last  Gaesarean  fortresB  stood. 
Evergreen  forest  I  which  Boccaccio's  lore 
And  Drydea's  lay  made  haunted  ground  to  me, 
How  have  I  loved  the  twili^t  hour  and  thee  I 

The  shriU  cicalas,  people  of  the  phie. 
Making  thetr  siunmer  lives  one  ceaseless 
song. 
Were  the  sole  echoes,  save  my  steed's  and 
mine. 
And  vesper  bells  that  rose  the  boughs  along  : 
The  spectre  huntsman  of  Onesti's  line, 
His  hell-dogs,  and  their  chase,  and  the  fair 
throng 
Whidi  leam'd  from  hts  example  not  to  fly 
From  a  true  lover,— sbad(yw'd  my  mind's  eye." 

The  Pineta  is  a  vast  succession  of 
lovely  avenues  and  glades,  upon  which 
you  can  drive  for  miles  over  the  turf: 
in  doing  so,  however,  it  will  be  ad- 
visable to  have  one  of  the  keepers  for 
guide,  as  they  will  point  out  all  the 
picturesque  spots ;  they  may  be  found 
at  the  ferry. 

La  Colonna  d^  Francesi.  Beyond 
the  Porta  Sisi,  about  2  m.  from  Ra- 
venna, on  the  banks  of  the  Ronco, 
is  a  square  pillar  erected  in  1557 
by  Pietro  Cesi,  president  of  Roma- 
gna,  as  a  memorial  of  the  battle  gained 
by  the  combined  army  of  Louis 
XII.  and  the  Duke  of  Ferrara  over 
the  troops  of  Julius  II.  and  the  King 
of  Spain,  April  11,  1512.  Four  in- 
scriptions on  the  medallions  of  the" 
pilaster,  and  an  equal  number  on  the 
4  sides  of  the  pedestal,  record  the 
events  of  that  memorable  day.  Lord 
Byron  mentions  the  engagement  and 
the  column  in  a  passage  quoted  in  the 
description  of  the  tomb  of  Dante,  and 
commemorates  the  untimely  fate  of  the 
heroic  Gaston  de  Foix,  who  fell  in  the 
very  moment  of  victory.  "  The  monu- 
ment of  such  a  terrible  engagement, 
which  left  20,000  men  dead  on  the 
field,  and  made  the  Chevalier  Bayard 
write  from  the  spot,  *  If  the  king  has 
gained  the  battle,  the  poor  gentlemen 
have  truly  lost  it,'  is  little  funereal  or 
military ;  it  is  ornamented  with  ele- 
gant arabesques  of  vases,  fruit,  festoons, 
dolphins,  and  loaded  with  8  long  tauto- 
logical inscriptions,  and  one  of  them  is 
a  rather  ridiculous  jeu  de  mots.  The 
speech  that  Guicciardini  makes  Gaston 
address  to  the  soldiers  on  the  banks  of 
the  Ronco  is  one  of  the  most  lauded  of 
those  pieces,  diffuse  imitations  of  the 


harangues  of  ancient  historians.  Be- 
sides the  illustrious  captains  present 
at  this  battle,  such  as  Vittorio  and 
Fabrizio  Colonna,  the  Marquis  della 
Palude,  the  celebrated  engineer  Pedro 
Navarra,  taken  prisoners  by  the  French, 
and  Anne  de  Montmorency,  yet  a 
youth,  afterwards  constable  of  France 
under  4  kings,  who  began  his  long 
military  career  amid  this  triumph, 
several  persons  eminent  in  letters 
were  there — Castiglione  and  Ariosto; 
Leo  X.,  then  Cardinal  de'  Medici,  as 
papal  legate  to  the  Spaniards,  was  taken 
prisoner.  The  banl  of  the  Orlando, 
who  has  alluded  to  the  horrible  car- 
uage  he  witnessed,  must  have  been 
powerfully  impressed  by  it,  to  paint  his 
battles  with  so  much  fire.  In  several 
passages  of  his  poem  Ariosto  attributes 
the  victory  on  this  occasion  to  the  skill 
and  courage  of  the  Duke  of  Ferrara. 
It  has  been  stated  that  Alfonso,  in  reply 
to  an  observation  that  part  of  the 
French  army  was  as  much  exposed  to 
his  artillery  as  the  army  of  the  allies, 
said  to  his  gunners,  in  the  heat  of  the 
conflict,  *  Fire  away  !  fear  no  mistake 
— they  are  all  our  enemies  X  *  Leo  X. 
redeemed  the  Turkish  horse  which  he 
rode  on  that  day,  and  used  it  in  the 
ceremony  of  his  possesso  (taking  pos- 
session of  the  tiara  at  St.  John  La- 
teran),  celebrated  April  11,  1513,  the 
anniversary  of  the  battle.  He  had  this 
horse  carefully  tended  till  it  died,  and 
permitted  no  one  to  mount  it," — 
Valery, 


BOMAGNA. 


Eoute  70. —  Venice  to  Ravenna, 


565 


HOUTE  70. 

VENICE   TO  RAVENNA,  BY  THE  CANALS 
AND  COMACCHIO. 


Yenioe  to  Chtoggia,  20  m. 
Chioggia  to  Gavanella 
Cavanella  to  Mesola    . 
Mesola  to  PDrnpoea 
Pomposa  to  Magnavaoca 
Magnavaoca  to  Prlmaro 
PMmaro  to  Ravenna    . 


POSTS. 

2 
2 
2 
2 
1 
2 


1 1  posts  =  aboat  90  m. 

The  traveller  who  is  desirous  of 
proceeding  from  Venice  to  Ravenna  by 
the  shortest  route  may  do  so  by  the 
canals  which  intersect  the  vast  lagunes 
between  the  2  cities.  Although  only 
a  short  portion  of  the  route  can  be  per- 
formed in  a  carriage,  there  is  a  series 
of  stations  from  Chioggia  to  Bavenna, 
the  route  being  estimated  at  11  posts. 

A  person  having  his  own  carriage 
must  be  prepared  to  run  all  risks  of 
trans-shipment  from  the  ferry-boats  j 
but  a  traveller  not  so  encumbered  will 
do  well  to  rely  (Hi  the  canal-boats  and 
on  the  carriages  of  the  country,  which 
he  will  find  at  Mesola  to  convey  him 
to  Ravenna. 

Persons  proceeding  by  this  route  will 
have  a  good  opportunity  of  seeing  the 
famous  MurazzCy  or  great  sea-wall  of 
Venice,  as  the  boat  must  pass  along  it 
whether  it  follows  the  canal  inside  the 
island  of  Malamocco,  or  takes  the  outer 
or  seaward  route. 

The  ordinary  course,  if  in  a  gondola, 
is  to  proceed  down  the  deeper  channel 
of  the  Laguna,  called  the  Malamocco 
canal,  and  from  thence  inside  the  long 
narrow  island  which  lies  beyond  it :  a 

X  /ita/i/— 1866. 


steamer  leaves  Venice  every  evening 
during  the  summer  for  Chioggia. 

Chioggia  or  Chiozza,  This  would  be 
the  best  resting-place  for  the  first  night. 
The  time  occupied  in  rowing  the  dis- 
tance in  a  6-oared  boat  is  about  6  hours ; 
it  would,  of  course,  be  much  shorter  in 
a  sailing  one,  with  a  faXv  wind.  Chioggia 
is  a  well-built  town,  with  a  convenient 
port,  much  frequented  by  the  small 
coasting  vessels  of  the  Adriatic.  Its 
history  and  association  with  the  naval 
achievements  of  Venice,  recalling  "the 
Doria's  menace,"  so  beautifully  sung  in 
*  Childe  Harold,'  belong  to  the  descrip- 
tion of  that  city,  and  need  not  l>e  par- 
ticularised here.  Leaving  the  town,  we 
proceed  to  Brondolo,  on  the  Brenta, 
and  from  thence  by  the  Canal  di  Valle, 
which  connects  the  latter  river  and  the 
Adige,to  Cawmella  delP  Adige,  ascend  the 
Adige  for  2  m.,  and  then  follow  the 
Canal  di  Loreo  to  Cavanella  di  Pd,  on  the 
I.  bank  of  that  branch  of  the  Po  called 
the  P5  Grande,  or  della  Maestra.  The 
other  branch  farther  S.  is  the  P6  di  Goro, 
and  between  the  point  of  bifurcation  at 
Punta  di  Sta.  Maria  and  the  sea  these 
two  arms  of  the  river  enclose  an  island, 
called  Isola  cT  Ariano,  frequently  subject 
to  the  destructive  inundations  .of  both 
its  branches.  On  the  noi*them  shore  of 
this  island,  and  about  3  m.  lower  down, 
is  Taglio  del  Pb,  to  which,  if  the  island 
can  be  traversed,  the  traveller  should 
proceed,  and  there  leave  his  boat ;  other- 
wise he  must  ascend  the  northern  branch 
of  the  Po,  and  make  a  tedious  detour 
round  the  western  angle  of  the  island  to 
Sta.  Maria,  near  ttie  town  of  Ariano; 
in  either  case  he  will  arrive  at  Mesola, 
the  frontier  town  of  the  North  Italian 
kingdom.  The  difference  of  time 
occupied  by  these  two  modes  is  con- 
siderable: from  Chioggia  to  Taglio 
the  voyage,  direct,  occupies  about  8 
hours;  from  Taglio  to  Mesola,  across 
the  island,  is  little  more  than  1  hour : 
whereas  the  route  from  Chioggia  to 
Mesola,  going  round  by  the  Po  and  Sta. 
Maria,  requires  at  least  14  hours. 

Mesola,  on  the  rt.  bank  of  the  Pb  di 
Goro,  This  should  be  made  the  sleeping- 
place  on  the  second  day;  there  is  a 
tolerable  inn  here ;  and  a  country  car- 
riage, quite  good  enough  for  the  roads, 

2  D 


666 


Route  70. —  Vemce  to  Eavenna. 


Sect.  VII. 


may  be  hired  for  the  next  day's  journey. 
Mesola  has  a  population  of  1917  souls: 
it  appears  to  have  been  considered  im- 
portant as  a  frontier  town,  since  it  is 
recorded  that  it  has  been  twice  pur- 
chased of  the  House  of  Austria  by  the 
Church— by  Pius  VI.,  for  a  million  of 
scudi,  and  by  Leo  XII.,  in  1822,  for 
467,000.  The  diflSculty  and  expenses 
of  keeping  up  the  embankments  of 
the  canals  and  rivers  in  this  part  of 
Italy,  which  are  admirably  constracted 
and  managed,  as  the  traveller  will  not 
fail  to  observe  during  his  journey,  are 
said  by  the  inhabitants  to  have  made 
the  acquisition  an  onerous  one  to  the 
Papal  government.  There  is  an  inte- 
resting ch.  at  Mesola,  erected  in  1071, 
once  attached  to  a  rich  Benedictine 
abbey.  The  pavement  of  Opus  Alex- 
andrinum,  the  spaces  over  the  columns 
and  the  apse,  formerly  covered  with 
mosaics,  were  subsequently  painted  by 
a  certain  Chegus,  who  has  left  his 
name  on  them:  in  the  refectory,  now 
the  property  of  Count  Guiccioli,  are  3 
good  subjects — ^the  best.  Our  Lord  giv- 
ing his  benediction,  between  a  group  of 
Saints— probably  by  Pietm  da  Eimini, 
although  attributed  to  Giotto.         «. 

Leaving  Mesola,  the  road  proceeds 
along  the  flat  sandy  tract  to  Pomposay 
near  the  P5  di  Volano,  which  is  crossed 
by  a  ferry,  and  afterwards  passes  over 
the  sandy  strip  which  encloses  on  the 
E.,  separating  from  the  sea,  the  shallow 
Lagune,  or,  as  it  is  called,  the  Valli  di 
Comacchio,  to  Magnavacoa,  W.  of  Mag- 
navacca  is  the  town  of  ComacchiOf  with 
8300  souls.  The  Lagunes  of  Co- 
macchio,  similar  to  those  of  Venice 
in  their  mode  of  formation,  occupy  an 
extensive  area  of  170  sq.  kilometres 
between  the  P5  di  Volano  on  the  N., 
and  the  P5  Primaro  or  Reno  on  the  S., 
separated  from  the  sea  by  a  long  sandy 
spit  which  has  only  one  communica- 
tion with  it  by  the  cut  of  Magnavacoa. 
These  Lagunes  have  from  time  imme- 
morial been  celebrated  for  their  fish- 
eries, consisting  chiefly  of  eels  and 
grey  mullet :  by  means  of  a  most  inge- 
nious system  the  rivers  which  encircle 
them  at  a  certain  period  of  the  year 
are  allowed  to  flow  in,  and  thiis  to 
introduce  the  young  fry  which  ascend 


these  streams  from  the  sea;  the  fish 
are  allowed  to  increase  in  sise,  and* 
as  all  exit  is  prevented  by  nets  and 
sluices,  at  a  particular  time  the  fishing 
commences.  The  fishery  employs  a 
population  of  nearly  8000  persons,  who 
are  located  about  ComaccMo,  and 
produces  about  800,000  lire  ;  the 
average  production  has  been  1,800,000 
lbs.  annually.  The  fish  is  eured  ob 
the  spot,  and  exported  to  every  part  of 
Italy.  The  contrivances  for  enticing 
the  yomng  fish,  and  for  retaining  the 
old  returning  to  the  sea,  which  are 
very  ingenious,  have  been  described  by 
Tasso  and  Ariosto. 

"  Come  11  peace  eolk,  dove  impalada 
Ne'  seni  di  Comacchio  U  noetro  matre, 
Fugge  dair  onde  impetuosa  e  cmda, 
CercaDdo  in  placide  acqoe,  ove  ripare. 
E  vien,  cbe  da  s^  stesso  el  si  rlDdiinda 
In  palustre  prigion,  nfe  pab  tomare ; 
Gi^  quel  serragUo  h  oon  mirabil  uso 
Sempre  all'  estrar  aperto,  air  nscir  chiuso." 

Genu.  Lib,  vii.  461 

Ariosto  calls  Comacchio 

"  La  cittk,  che  in  mezzo  alle  piscose 
Palndi  del  Vh  teme  ambe  le  foci." 

Orl.  Bur.  ill.  41,  S. 

The*  town  of  Comacchio  was  for- 
merly fortified,  and  occupied,  in  virtue 
of  a  stipulation  in  the  Treaty  of 
Vienna,  by  an  Austrian  force  ;  but  the 
defences  were  destroyed  in  1848.  It  is 
on  an  elongated  island,  having  the 
Convent  of  the  Capuccini  at  one  end, 
and  the  remains  of  its  citadel  at  the 
other.  The  depth  of  the  Laguna  yaries 
from  3  to  6  feet. 

About  7  m.  S.  of  Magnavacca  the 
road  crosses  the  southern  branch  of  the 
Po,  called  the  Pb  di  Primaro,  at  II 
Passo,  the  supposed  Spineticum  Ostium 
of  the  ancients,  leaving  on  the  1.  the 
town  of  Primaro  and  its  small  port, 
defended  by  the  Torre  Gregoriana. 

I  m.  beyond  Primaro  &e  Lamone 
is  crossed,andwe60on  enter  the  northern 
extremity  of  the  Pineta,  described  in 
the  account  of  Ravenna,  in  the  succeed- 
ing Route.  After  a  drive  of  a  few  miles 
through  this  venerable  forest,  we  enter 
Ravenna  near  the  tomb  of  Theodoric, 
by  the  Porta  Serrata.  The  journey 
from  Mesola  to  Ravenna  will  occupy 
about  10  hours,  and  be  a  fair  day  s 
work. 


floMAONA, 


EotUe  70. —  Venice  to  Ravenna, 


b67 


Ravenna,  described  in  Rte.  69a. 

[A  traveller,  Dr.  Fraser,  who  per- 
fbrmed  the  journey  from  Ravenna  to 
Venice,  gives  the  following  account  of 
his  progress :  — "  This  route  is  not  devoid 
of  interest,  although  it  is  seldom  fol- 
lowed. On  leaving  Ravenna,  the  road 
passes  by  the  tomb  of  Theodoric,  and 
soon  after  enters  the  Pineta.  The  deep 
silence  of  the  forest  is  unbroken  by  the 
n<Mse  of  the  carriage,  which  now  passes 
over  the  green  turf,  scarcely  marked, 
and  in  some  places  not  at  all,  by  any 
track ;  and  the  traveller  soon  feels  that 
without  the  aid  of  a  guide,  or  the 
instinct  of  the  North  American,  his  path 
would  soon  be  lost.  We  were  told  that 
wild  boars  abound  in  the  recesses  of  the 
forest ;  but  we  saw  no  game,  nor  indeed 
any  other  living  thing.  After  threading 
its  mazes  for  2  hours,  we  observed  wi£ 
regret  a  thinning  of  the  trees,  and 
gradually  entered  on  the  open  country. 
An  uninteresting  drive  brought  us  to 
Magnavacca,  where,  in  addition  to  our 
own  stock  of  provisions  (for  every  per- 
son taking  this  route  ought  to  carry  a 
supply),  we  found  the  means  of  mak- 
ing a  tolerable  breakfast.  We  changed 
horses  and  carriage  at  this  place,  by 
which  we  neither  improved  our  vehicle 
nor  the  quality  of  the  horses.  We  were 
now  given  to  understand  that  no  one 
would  take  a  good  carriage  by  this  road, 
so  that  we  had  been  deceived  by  the 
innkeeper  at  Ravenna,  who  had  agreed 
to  convey  us  to  Mesola  in  his  snug 
barouche ;  whereas  the  one  to  which  we 
w«re  now  transferred  was  somewhat 
ruder  in  construction  than  a  tax-cart. 
We  had,  however,  no  alternative,  and 
were  given  to  understand  that  next  day 
we  should  obtain  a  better  carriage  at 
Mesola,  which  we  reached  at  sunset. 
We  slept  there,  although  our  original 
intention  was  to  make  Ariano  our  rest- 
ing-place for  the  first  night;  but  the 
usual  road  was  cut  up  by  the  late  floods, 
and  that  which  we  were  to  follow  so 
increased  the  distance,  that  the  land- 
lord would  not  furnish  us  with  horses 
that  evening.  As  he  had  everything 
in  his  own  hands,  we  submitted  with  as 
good  grace  as  possible.  Mesola  is  the 
frontier  town  of  the  Papal  States,  and 
consists  of  a  large  building,  the  residence 


of  the  governor,  apparently  constructed 
so  as  to  be  turned  into  a  fort  if  necessary, 
and  a  few  straggling  houses,  all  lying 
\  below  the  level  of  the  river,  which  is 
here  magnificently  embanked.  During 
this  day's  journey  we  crossed  five 
streams  by  means  of  ferry-boats;  but 
the  steepness  of  their  banks,  and  the  bad 
arrangements  of  the  boats,  convinced  us 
that  no  English  carriage  could  be  safely 
transported  without  improved  means. 
On  one  occasion,  indeed,  our  carriage, 
from  its  impetus  in  descending;  was 
nearly  thrown  into  the  river,  dragging 
the  men  and  everything  Xfter  it.  It 
this  accident  had  happened,  we  should 
have  had  onr  baggage  destroyed,  if  not 
lost,  and  should  have  been  compelled  to 
proceed  for  some  distance  on  foot  Wd 
started  from  Mesola  the  next  morning 
at  daybreak,  and  drove  along  the  S. 
bank  of  the  P6  di  Goro,  or  P5  Piccolo, 
to  the  point  opposite  Vicolo,  where  we 
found  numerous  boatmen,  and  soon 
made  an  arrangement  for  our  convey- 
ance toChioggia.  We  were  now  dragged, 
as  in  a  canal  boat,  by  two  men,  ^up 
the  Po  to  Sta.  Maria  in  Ponto,  without 
landing  at  Ariano.  Before  arriving  at 
Sta.  Maria  we  left  the  boat  in  order  to 
avoid  the  tiresome  navigation  round  the 
western  point  of  the  island.  We  reached 
Sta.  Maria  in  this  way,  after  a  walk  of  a 
mile,  while  the  boat  did  not  arrive  for 
3  hours.  Sta.  Maria  is  the  Austrian 
frontier  station :  we  found  the  officers 
extremely  civil  and  obliging,  and  were 
subjected  to  far  less  inconvenience  than 
we  had  met  with  in  many  petty  towns 
of  the  Papal  States.  The  effects  of  the 
floods  on  this  island  of  Ariano  were  still 
visible  in  the  broken  banks,  and  in  the 
vast  masses  of  shingle  thrown  up  on 
various  parts  of  the  surface.  The  in- 
habitants were  unable  to  leave  their 
houses  for  15  days  during  the  great 
flood  of  November,  1839.  On  the 
arrival  of  our  boat  we  proceeded  on  our 
voyage,  passing  through  numerous  ca- 
nals, and  seldom  encountering  a  lock, 
in  consequence  of  the  level  character  of 
the  country.  We  crossed  the  branch  of 
the  Po  called  P5  Maestra,  the  Adige, 
and  the  Brenta,  during  the  day ;  but  the 
only  towns  we  passed  were  Cavanella 
di    P5  and    Loreo.      We    arrived    at 

2p2 


6<58 


Moute  71. — Eavenna  to  Rmim. 


Sect.  VIL 


^ 


Chioggia  at  8  in  the  evening,  and  our 
auxiety  to  reach  Venice  was  so  great 
that  we  immediatelj  hired  a  boat,  and 
landed  in  that  city  at  2  in  the  morning. 
We  ought  to  have  slept  at  Chioggia,  as 
we  suffered  much  from  cold  in  passing 
the  lagunes,  and  had  but  an  imperfect 
view  of  the  great  wall,  which  is  so  well 
seen  on  this  passage.  Our  route  alto- 
gether, in  spite  of  the  drawbacks  men- 
tion'ed,  was  &r  from  being  uninteresting ; 
the  swamps,  canals,  and  rivers  were  so 
unlike  anything  we  bad  seen  before, 
that  we  were  amused  by  the  novelty  of 
the  scene ;  tile  time  passed  away  plea- 
santly under  the  awning  of  the  boat,  or 
in  walking  along  the  banks  of  the  canals, 
which  the  slow  movement  of  our  boat 
permitted ;  we  were  struck  by  the 
simple  manners  of  the  peasantry,  and 
still  more  by  the  extreme  beauty  of  the 
women ;  we  were  not  annoyed  by  beg- 
gars ;  we  enjoyed  a  freedom  unknown 
to  travellers  in  a  diligence ;  and  at  the 
close  of  our  journey  we  almost  regretted 
that  it  was  the  only  one,  and  the  last  of 
the  kind,"] 

Travellers  will  perceive  from  this 
that  it  is  desirable  to  divide  the  journey 
into  3  days,  sleeping  at  Mesola  or  Ariano 
on  the  first  night,  and  at  Ohioggia  on 
the  second.  They  would  thus  reach 
Venice  early  on  the  third  day. 


EOUTE  71. 

RAVENNA  TO  RIMINI,  BY  CERVIA. 

4i  posts  1^36  m. 

.  This  is  a  good  road,  although  not 
supplied  witli  post-horses.  (The  post- 
master at  Ravenna  will  send  a  relay 
of  horses  to  Cesenatico,  or  will  convey 
travellers  the  whole  way  to  Rimini 
with  the    same    horses,  by   allowing 


a  halt  of  two  hours  at  the  latter 
place.)  It  follows  the  shores  of  the 
Adriatic,  but  presents  few  objects  of 
interest,  and  the  sea  is  generally  con- 
cealed by  banks  of  sand. 

The  first  portion  of  this  route,  as  &r 
as  S.  Apollinare,  has  been  described  in 
the  account  of  that  basilica.  After 
passing  through  the  Pineta  for  several 
m.,  the  road  crosses  the  Savio  at  S. 
Saverio,  and  through  Cervia,  an  epis- 
copal town  of  2230  souls  on  the  Adri- 
atic, in  an  unhealthy  situation  close  to 
very  extensive  salt-works,  upon  which 
its  prosperity  depends.  Farther  S.  is 
the  town  of  Cesenatico,  the  ancient  stat. 
of  Ad  Novas,  partly  surrounded  with 
walls,  but  presenting  no  object  of  any 
interest  to  detain  the  traveller.  It  is 
about  half  way  between  Ravenna  and 
Rimini,  and  is  therefore  the  usual  rest- 
inpplace  of  the  vetturini.  (Inn  clean, 
with  good  bed-rooms. — T,  jP.,  1859.) 

Beyond  this  we  pass  some  EmaXL 
torrents  which  have  been  erroneously 
supposed  to  be  the  Rubicon.  Farther 
on,  at  the  distance  of  9  m.  from 
Rimini,  near  San  Martino,  we  cross  a 
wooden  bridge  spanning  the  Uso,  a  con- 
siderable and  rapid  stream,  descending 
to  the  sea  from  Sanf  Arcangelo,  and 
called  by  the  people  on  the  spot  U 
Ruhicone,  The  reasons  for  regarding 
this  as  the  Rubicon,  to  the  exclusion  of 
the  numerous  streams  whose  pretensions 
to  that  distinction  have  been  advocated 
by  former  travellers,  will  be  stated  at 
length  in  the  next  route. 

The  present  route  falls  into  the  high 
postrroad  at  Celle  shortly  before  it 
reaches  the  Marecchia,  and  Rimini  is 
entered  by  the  Bridge  of  Augustus. 

35  m.  Rimini  (Rte.  72). 


RoMAGNA.  Eoute  72. — Bologna  to  Rimini — Imda. 


669 


ROUTE  72. 

BOLOGNA  TO  RIMINI,  BY  IMOLA,  FAENZA, 
FORLI,  AND  CESENA,  WITH  EXCURSION 
TO  SAN   MARINO.— BY  RAIL. 

Ill  kil.  =s  69  Eng.  miles. 


KIL. 

KIL. 

Bologna  to 

Forll.     .     .     . 

64 

Quaderna    .     .11 

Forllmpopoll    . 

12 

CastelS.Pietro.  24 

Gesena   .     .     . 

83 

Imola     ...  35 

SavlgnaiK)    .     . 

97 

Castel  Bolognese  42 

Sant  Arcangelo 

102 

Faenza  ...  50 

Rlmlnl  .     .     . 

111 

The  rlwy.  follows  nearly  the  line  of 
the  post-road,  and  of  the  ancient  Via 
JEmilia,*  which  extended  from  Pia- 
cenza  to  Rimini.  The  country  through 
vhich  it  runs  is  highly  cultivated,  being 
one  of  the  most  productive  districts  in 
Italy.  It  is  traversed  by  numerous 
rivers  descending  from  the  Apennines, 
at  the  foot  of  the  last  spurs  of  which  it 
runs,  so  that  during  the  journey  the 
traveller  will  have  on  one  side  hilly 
sub-Apennine  region  covered  with  trees 

*  The  Yia  Emilia,  commenced  by  the  Consnl 
Marcus  iErailius  Lepidua  (b.c.  an.  87),  formed 
the  continuation  of  the  Yia  Flaminla  towards 
Cisalpine  Gaul.  The  principal  stations,  with 
their  respective  distances,  were — 

riacentia  (Piacenza)  to  M.  p. 

Florentia  (Firenzuola)       ....  xv. 

Fidentia  (Borgo  S.  Donino)    ...  x. 

ParvM  (Parma) xv. 

Tannetum  (Tancto) vn. 

JRegium  Lepidi  (Reggio)    ....  xt. 

JUutina  (Modena) xvii. 

Forum  Gdllorum  (nr.  Castel  Franco)  viii, 

Bononia  (Bologna) xvir. 

(TZafertia  (Quaderna) x. 

Forum  Comdii  (Imola)    ....  xjv. 

Faventia  (Faenza) x. 

Forum  Linii  (Forlf) x. 

Forum  Populii  (Forllmpopoli)    ,     ,  vii. 

Catena  (Cesena)    ......  vii. 

Ad  Confluentes  (nr.  Savignano)    .     .  virr. 

Ariminum  (Klminl) xir. 


and  vines,  and  on  the  other  the  rich 
alluvial  tract  extending  to  the  Po. 
"  Leaving  Bologna,  the  line  crosses  the 
Savena  and  the  Idice  {Idex)  torrents  to 
11  kil.  Mirandcla  Slot. 

6  kil.  Quaderna  Stat,  the  neighbour* 
ing  village  of  S.  Nicolo  is  supposed  to 
stand  on  the  ancient  datemum,  a  Mu- 
taiio  on  the  Via  i^milia,  further  on  is 

7  kil.  Castel  8.  Pietro  Stat.,  a  fortified 
town  on  the  Silaro  {Silarus),  erected  in 
the  13th  centy.  by  the  Bolognese. 

7  kil.  Imola  Slat,  (^Inns :  S.  Marco, 
good ;  i  Tre  Mori,  kept  by  Lama,  newly 
fitted  up,  clean,  1857).  This  town,  on 
the  Santemo,  the  ancient  Vartrenus, 
occupies  the  site  of  Forum  Comelii. 
It  is  generally  considered  to  have  been 
founded  by  the  Lombards.  Tn  the 
middle  ages  its  position  between 
Bologna  and  Romagna  made  it  an 
important  acquisition  in  the  contests 
for  power:  it  was  successively  held 
by  the  different  chiefs  who  exercised 
their  sway  in  the  cities  of  central  Italy, 
and  was  united  to  the  States  of  the 
Church  under  Julius  II.  As  Forum 
Comelii,  and  one  of  the  stations  of  the 
£!milian  Way,  it  was  a  place  of  some 
importance ;  it  is  mentioned  by  Cicero, 
and  by  Martial  in  his  Srd  Ep.  — 

*'  Si  veneris  unde  requiret, 
.£mili»  dices  de  regione  vln. 
Si  quibus  in  terris,  qua  simus  in  urbe  rogabit, 
(jomell  referas  me,  lioet,  ease  Foro." 

The  present  town,  with  a  pop.  of 
9320,  contains  little  to  detain  the 
traveller.  Among  its  public  establish- 
ments are  the  Hospitalf  a  Theatre,  and 
a  small  Public  Library,  containing  a 
MS.  Hebrew  Bible  on  parchment,  of 
the  1 3th  century,  much  prized  by  Car- 
dinal Mezzofanti. 

The  Cathedral,  dedicated  to  S.  Cas- 
sianus  the  Martyr,  contains  the  bodies 
of  that  saint,  and  of  Si.  Peter  Chr}- 
sologus,  archbishop  of  Ravenna,  who 
was  bom  here  about  a.d.  400,  Vas- 
salva,  the  celebrated  anatomist,  was 
also  bom  at  Imola  in  1666.  The  bish- 
opric dates  from  422,  in  the  ponti- 
ficate of  Celestin  I. ;  S.  Cornelius  was 
its  first  bishop.  Pius  VII.  was  bishop 
of  Imola  at  the  period  of  his  elevation 
to  the  pontificate  in  1800,  as  well  as  the 
reigning  pontiff,  Pius  IX.,  in  1847. 


670 


Boute  72. — Faenza. 


Sect.  VII-     ' 


The  workB  of  Innoceazo  da  Imola 
must  not  be  looked  for  in  this  his  native 
town ;  the  Pahizzo  Pubblico  contained  2 
of  his  paintings,  but,  as  he  lived  almost 
entirely  in  Bologna,  he  probably  found 
little  patronage  in  the  city  of  his  birth. 

[At  Riola,  1 1  m.  from  Imola,  in  a 
picturesque  valley  of  the  Apennines, 
are  some  ferruginous  mineral  springs 
frequented  in  July  and  August.] 

[A  road  leads  from  Imola  to  Ravenna, 
through  Lugo,  5  posts  (Rte.  68);  but 
travellers  will  find  a  shorter  and  more 
convenient  one  from  Castel  Bolognese 
by  rail  to  the  city  of  the  Exarchs. 
See  Rtes.  66,  67,  and  69a.] 

Leaving  Imola,  we  pass  the  Santemo, 
the  Vatrenus  of  Pliny,  by  a  handsome 
modem  bridge.  Midway  between  it 
and  Faenza  is 

7  kil.  Castel  Bolognese  Stat,  the 
place  is  so  called  from  the  for- 
tress built  there  by  the  Bolognese  in 
1380.  In  1434  it  was  the  scene  of  a 
decisive  battle  between  the  Florentines 
and  the  Milanese  commanded  by  Pic- 
cinino,  and  the  Florentines  by  Nicol5 
da  Tolentino  and  Gattamelata.  The 
army  of  the  Florentines,  amounting  to 
9000  men,  was  completely  overthrown ; 
Tolentino,  Orsini,  and  Astorre  Manfredi 
lord  of  Faenza,  were  made  prisoners, 
together  with  the  entire  army,  with  the 
exception  of  1000  horse ;  and  what  was 
more  remarkable,  only  4  were  left  dead 
on  the  field,  and  30  wounded.  The  rly. 
to  Ravenna  branches  off  here.  Beyond 
Castel  Bolognese,  the  Senio  (JSinniits) 
is  crossed. 

8  kil.  Faenza  Stat.  (Inn:  La  Co- 
rona or  la  Posta)  occupies  the  site 
of  the  ancient  Faventia,  celebrated 
in  the  history  of  the  civil  wars  for 
the  victory  of  Sylla  over  the  party 
of  Carbo.  It  is  on  the  Lamone 
(Anemo\  and  contains  a  population 
of  19,942  souls.  It  has  several  hand- 
some edifices,  and  is  built  in  a  quad- 
rangular form,  divided  by  4  principal 
streets  which  meet  in  the  Piazza :  it  is 
surrounded  by  walls.  Faenza  is  memo- 
rable in  Italian  history  for  its  capture 
by  the  English  condottiere,  Sir  John 
Hawkswood,  then  in  the  service  of 
Gregory  XI.:  he  entered  the  town 
March  29,  1376,  and  delivered  it  up 


to  a  fi^ghtfol  military  execution  and 
pillage ;  4000  persons,  says  Sismondi, 
were  put  to  death,  and  their  property 
pillaged.  Among  the  masters  under 
whose  sovereignty  Faenza  figures  in 
the  middle  ages,  the  Pagani  will  not 
fail  to  suggest  themselves  to  the  reader 
of  Dante.  The  poet,  in  the  beautiful 
passage  alluding  to  Machinardo  Pagano 
under  his  armorial  bearings,  a  lion 
azure  on  a  field  argent,  says,  in  reply 
to  the  inquiry  of  Guido  da  Monte- 
feltro, 

"  La  citt&  di  Ijamone  e  di  Santemo 
Conduce  il  leonoel  dal  nido  bianco, 
Che  muta  parte  dalla  state  al  vemo." 

fnf.  xxviL 

"  Lamone's  city  and  Santemo's  range 
Under  the  lion  of  the  saiowy  lair. 
Inconstant  partisan,  that  changeth  sides. 
Or  ever  summer  yields  to  winter's  frost" 

Gary's  Trans. 

The  tradition  that  Faenza  takes  its 
name  from.  Phaeton  is  thus  alluded  to 
by  a  modem  poet : 

"  Eoco  I'eocelsa 
Cittk  che  prese  nome  di  colul 
Chi  si  mal  carre^^b  la  via  del  sole 
K  cadde  in  Val  di  Po." 

Count  Carlo  PepoWs  Eremo,  canto  It 

Faenza  is  supposed  to  have  been  one 
of  the  first  Italian  cities  in  modem  times 
where  the  manufacture  of  earthenware 
was  introduced ;  whence  the  adoption  of 
the  name  faience  for  such  pottery  into 
the  French  language.  The  manufac- 
ture  still  exists,  although  it  has  been 
long  surpassed  by  the  productions  ot 
Umbria  and  the  north.  Another  branch 
of  industry  inherited  by  tlie  inhabitants 
from  their  ancestors,  and  still  flourish- 
ing, is  the  spinning  and  weaving  of 
silk:  the  art  is  said  to  have  been  in- 
troduced into  Faenza  by  2  monks  on 
their  return  from  India,  who  erected 
their  spinning  machine  here  in  1559. 

The  LiceOf  or  College,  contains  some 
examples  of  Jacomone  of  Faenza,  an 
imitator  of  Raphael,  and  the  supposed 
painter  of  the  cupola  of  S.  Vitale  at 
Ravenna. 

The  Cathedral,  dedicated  to  S.  Cos- 
tantius,  the  first  bishop  of  the  see,  a.i>. 
313,  is  remarkable  for  the  picture  ot 
the  Holy  Family  by  Innocenzo  da 
Imola,  and  for  bas-reliefs  representing 
events  in  the  life   of  San  Saviuo,  by 


BOMAGNA. 


Route  72. — Faenza — Forli. 


671 


Benedetto  da  Majano,  The  Capuchin 
Couyent  outside  the  toim  has  a  good 
picture  of  the  Virgin  and  St.  Jofaji  by 
Ghuido,  which  was  removed  in  1797  to 
the  Lourre.  Faenza  has  produced  many 
painters  of  note.  Among  these  Lanzi 
mentions  Jacomone.  It  also  claims 
the  honour  of  being  the  birthplace  of 
Torricelli,  the  celebrated  natural  phi- 
losopher and  mathematician,  the  in- 
ventor of  the  barometer. 

Some  of  the  churches  of  Faenza  con- 
tain interesting  objects  of  art:  San 
Maglorio  has  a  Madonna,  attributed  to 
Giorgione,  but  more  probably  by  Griro- 
lamo  da  Treviso,  In  the  ch.  attached 
to  the  OrfaTwtrofio  delle  Femmine  is  a 
good  picture  by  Paimezzano.  In  the 
sacristy  of  the  ch.  of  the  Servi  are  two 
good  frescoes  by  Bertucei.  In  the 
Commenda,  a  church  in  the  Borgo,  is  a 
fresco  by  Girolamo  da  D^eviso,  dated 
1 .533,  of  the  Virgin  and  Child,  SS.  Mary 
Magdalene  and  Catherine,  with  the 
Donatorio  kneeling,  a  fine  specimen 
of  this  rare  master,  and  a  remarkable 
work  ;  a  bust  of  St.  John  the  Bap- 
tist, by  Donatello  (1420),  which  for- 
merly belonged  to  the  Knights  of  Malta, 
of  great  beauty  and  expression,  is  kept 
in  the  house  of  the  priest  adjoining. 

Among  the  public  establishments  of 
Faenza,  the  Hospital  and  Lunatic  Asy- 
lum may  engage  the  attention  of,  at 
least,  the  professional  traveller. 

The  Pinaootheca  contains  a  few  pic- 
tures by  native  artists,  especially  of 
the  elder  Bertuceio,  among  his  few  au- 
thentic works ;  of  Scaletta,  Ottaxiano 
Pace,  Palmezzano,  &c. 

The  Palazzo  Cotmmale  was  formerly 
the  palace  of  the  Manfredis,  lords 
of  Faenza.  Its  middle  window,  now 
closed  by  an  iron  grating,  is  pointed 
out  as  the  scene  of  one  of  those 
domestic  atrocities  which  figure  so 
frequently  in  the  annals  of  Italian 
families  during  the  middle  ages.  It 
recalls  the  &te  of  Galeotto  Manfred  i, 
killed  by  his  wife  Francesca  Benti- 
voglio,  a  jealous  and  injured  woman, 
who,  seeing  that  he  was  getting  the 
advantage  of  the  4  assassins  she  had 
employed  to  murder  him,  leaped  out  of 
her  bed,  snatched  a  sword,  and  des- 
p  atched  him  herself.   Monti  has  written 


a  fine  tragedy  on  Galeotto  Manfredi, 
The  window  of  the  chamber  that  wit- 
nessed the  murder  is  that  alluded  to ; 
the  marks  of  the  blood  are  said  to  have 
disappeared  within  these  few  years 
under  Italian  whitewashing.  Lorenzo 
de'  Medici  subsequenUy  interested  him- 
self in  the  fate  of  Francesca,  kept  im- 
prisoned by  the  inhabitants  of  Faenza, 
and  obtained  her  release. 

The  Zanelli  Canals  so  called  from 
Signor  Zanelli,  by  whom  it  was  opened 
in  1782,  connects  Faenza  with  the 
Adriatic.  It  commences  at  the  Porta 
Pia,  and,  after  traversing  the  plain  for 
34  m.,  fklls  into  the  Po  di  Prunaro  at 
S.  Alberto. 

The  country  around  Faenza  is  not  to 
be  surpassed  in  richness  and  fertility : 
it  was  praised  by  Pliny,  Varro,  and  Co- 
lumella, and  is  still  the  object  of  admir- 
ation to  every  agricultural  traveller. 

[An  excellent  road  leads  from  Faenza 
to  Ravenna,  distant  about  22  m.  (dili- 
gence in  3  hrs.)  (Rte  67);  and  another 
across  the  Apennines  to  Florence,  by 
Marradi  and  Borgo  San  Lorenzo.  Dili- 
gence 3  times  a  week ;  courier  carriage 
daily.    Rte.  64.] 

Leaving  Faenza,  the  Lamone  is 
crossed,  and  the  rlwy.  proceeds  over 
the  plain^  passing  the  Montoue  (Aries 
or  Vemex)  before  entering  Forli,  and 
which^  uniting  with  the  Ronco  {Bc" 
desis)  near  Ravenna,  falls  into  the 
Adriatic  soon  afterwards. 

14  kil.  Forli  Stat  (Inn,  La  Posta, 
in  the  Corso,  very  feir ;  **  good  and 
moderate  "— i?.  5.,  May  1865).  This 
city,  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  Apen- 
nines, in  a  pleasant  and  fertile  plain, 
watered  by  the  Ronco  and  Mon- 
tone,  is  the  capital  of  a  province 
comprehending  541  sq.  m.,  and  218,433 
Inhab.  The  city  itself  contains  a 
population  of  17,000.  It  is  built  on 
the  site  of  the  Forum  Livii  founded 
by  Livius  Salinator  after  the  defeat 
of  Asdrubal  on  the  banks  of  the 
Metaurus.  During  the  middle  ages 
it  was  a  place  of  some  importance  as  a 
free  city,  but  at  length  fell  into  the 
hands  of  the  Malatestas  and  the  Orde- 
laffis.  The  latter,  so  well  known  in 
the  14th  and  15th  cents,  as  princes  ot 


572 


Foute  72. — Forli — Churches. 


Sect.  VIL 


1 


Forfi,  became  extinct  in  the  person  of 

Luigi  Ordelaffi,  who  died  in  exile  at 

Venice  in  1504,  after  haying  in  vain 

offered  to  sell  the  principality  to  that 

republic.     Forli  became  a  fief  of  the 

Church  almost  immediately  after  that 

event,  in  1504,  under  Julius  II.     The 

Ordelaffis    are    mentioned  b^    Dante 

under  the  figure  of  the  green  lion  borne 

on    their  coat  of  arms,  in  a  passage 

containing  an  allusion  to  the  defeat  of 

the  French  army  at  Forli  by  Guido  da 

Montefeltro : — 

**  La  terra,  che  fe'  gik  la  Itrnga  prova, 
E  di  Franceschi  sangninoeo  mncchio, 
Sotto  le  branche  verdi  si  ritrova  " 

Ifif,  zxvii. 

"  The  green  talons  grasp 
The  land  that  stood  erewhile  the  proof  so  long 
And  piled  in  bloody  heap  the  host  of  France." 

Ccwy'i  Trans. 

Forli  is  a  handsome  and  well-built 
town;  its  architecture,  particularly  in 
some  of  its  palaces,  is  imposing:  the 
Palazzo  Guarini  after  the  designs  of 
Michael  Angelo,  the  Palazzo  del  Oo- 
vemOy  and  the  Monte  di  Pietii  may  be 
mentioned  among  its  most  remarkable 
public  edifices.  It  has  a  circus  for  the 
game  of  pallone,  and  a  public  promenade, 
both  outside  the  Porta  Pia,  on  the  road 
leading  to  Rimini. 

A  few  hours  will  suffice  to  see  every- 
thing worthy  of  notice  at  Forli,  pro- 
ceeding in  the  following  order,  sup- 
posing the  tourist  has  taken  up  his 
quarters  at  the  Albergo  della  Posta: 
Piazza  Maggiore ;  ch.  of  San  Mercuriale  ; 
ch.  of  the  Carmine;  the  cathedral 
(Duomo) ;  ch.  of  8,  Girolamo  ;  ch.  of  San 
Filippo ;  ch.  of  Santa  Trinita ;  ch.  of  the 
Dominicani;  Citadel;  ch.  of  the  Seroi; 
Pinacoteca,  or  Picture  Gallery ;  Ginnasio 
and  Library ;  Passeggiata  PMlica ;  and 
Giuocco  di  Palone, 

The  Cathedral  of  Santa  Croce  is  cele- 
brated for  the  chapel  of  the  Madonna  del 
Fuoco,  forming  the  I.  transept,  almost 
a  ch.  of  itself,  the  cupola  of  which  was 
painted  by  Carlo  Cignani  after  20  years* 
labour.  "  He  passed,"  says  Lanzi,  "  the 
last  years  of  his  long  life  at  Forli,  where 
he  established  his  family,  and  left  the 
grandest  monument  of  his  genius  in  that 
fine  cupola,  which  is  perhaps  the  most 
remarkable  work  of  art  which  the  18th 
century   produced.     The  subject,  like 


that  in  the  cathedral  of  Parma,  is  the 
Assumption  of  the  Virgin ;  and  here, 
as  there,  is  painted  a  true  paradise, 
which  is  admired  the  more  it  is  contem- 
plated. He  spent  36  years  on  his  work, 
visitine  Ravenna  from  time  to  time 
to  study  the  cupola  of  Guido  in  the 
Cathedral,  from  which  he  borrowed 
the  fine  St.  Michael  and  some  other 
groups.  It  is  said  that  the  scaffold- 
ing was  removed  against  his  will, 
as  he  never  made  an  end  of  re- 
touching and  finishing  his  work  in  his 
accustomed  style  of  excellence.  He 
is  buried  in  this  chapel."  A  c&xirium  in 
this  cathedral  is  shown  as  the  design 
of  Michel  Angelo,  with  a  reliquiary  of 
carved  and  enamelled  work  of  the  14th 
century,  supposed  to  be  the  .work  of 
German  artists.  The  cathedral  is  now 
undergoing  so  entire  a  restoration  that 
a  considerable  part  of  it  has  been  re- 
built, the  several  paintings  once  in  it 
having  been  removed  to  the  Pinacoteca. 

The  Ch,  of  S,  Filippo  Neri  contains  a 
picture  of  S.  Francesco  di  Sales,  by 
Carlo  Marattay  in  the  2nd  chapel  on  1. ; 
a  St.  Joseph,  by  Cignani ;  a  fine 
Christ,  by  Guercino ;  and  the  Annuncia- 
tion, at  the  2nd  altar  on  the  rt. 

The  Ch.  ofS,  Gtro/amo  contains  in  the 
large  chapel  opening  out  of  the  rt  aisle 
the  very  fine  picture  of  the  Conception, 
one  of  the  masterpieces  of  Guido ;  it  re- 
presents the  Madonna  surrounded  by  a 
host  of  angels.  The  first  chapel  on  rt. 
is  painted  in  fresco  by  Melozzo  and  Pal- 
mezzano :  the  lower  part,  attributed  to 
Palmezzano,  is  very  beautiful ;  in  the  up- 
per portion  are  introduced  the  portraits 
of  Girolamo  Riario  and  Caterina  Sforza, 
dressed  as  pilgrims,  and  those  of  both 
the  painters  in  the  composition  beneath. 
The  vault  and  ornaments  of  the  pilasters 
are  very  handsome:  in  this  chapel  is 
the  tomb  of  Barbara  Ordelaffi  (1466). 
The  4th  chapel  has  a  picture  over  llie 
altar  of  the  Virgin  and  Saints,  by 
Palmezzano;  the  Donatorii  are  sup- 
posed to  be  portraits  of  G.  Riario  and 
Caterina  Sforza,  with  their  two  sons : 
the  predella,  representing  the  Last 
Supper,  with  beautiful  figures  of  saints 
in  the  intervals  of  its  3  compart- 
ments, is  by  the  same  painter  :  the 
roof  was    painted    by    Melozzo:    the 


BoMAGNA. 


iloute  72.-  -Forli — Pinacoteca. 


573 


whole  of  the  other  frescoes  in  this 
chapel  have  heen  covered  with  white- 
wash. The  5th  chapel  has  some  fres- 
coes hy  Agrestif  a  native  artist;  the 
2nd  chapel  on  1.  an  Ancona  of  a  Cruci- 
fixion, by  F,  Menzocchi.  This  ch. 
contains  the  tomb  of  Morgagni,  the 
celebrated  anatomist  (ob.  1771). 

The  Ch,  ofS,Mercurialej  in  the  formot 
a  basilica  and  dedicated  to  SS.  Thomas 
and  Mercnrialis,  the  first  bishop  of  For- 
li, Capella  de'Ferri,  has  a  good  painting 
by  Tnnocenzo  da  Imola^  and  is  decorated 
with"  sculptures  of  1536.  There  are 
also  several  good  paintings  by  Marco 
Palmezzano.  Over  the  entrance  is  a 
curious  bas-relief  of  the  story  of  the 
Three  Kings,  erroneously  attributed 
to  Sansovino.  The  4  th  chapel  on  1. 
contains  a  fine  Almighty  by  Falmez- 
zanOy  with  4  Saints  and  a  host  of  Angels 
kneeling :  under  it  is  a  good  Predella, 
in  the  style  of  Pinturricchio ;  on  the 
lunette  over  the  altar  is  the  Resurrec- 
tion. In  5th  chapel  on  rt.  is  a  good 
Madonna  and  Child,  by  Palmezzano, 
with  a  charming  landscape.  The  Cam" 
panile,  a  fine  quadrangular  tower  with  a 
spire,  remarkable  for  its  architecture 
and  great  height,  was  erected  in  1180. 

The  Ch,  of  II  Carmine  has  over  the 
1st  altar  on  the  1.  what  is  considered 
Melozzo  da  Forli* s  finest  painting  in  his 
native  city — S.  Antony  the  Abbot  be- 
tween St.  John  the  Baptist  and  St. 
Sebastian.  In  an  Annunciation  behind 
the  high  altar,  by  the  same  painter, 
the  figure  of  the  An^el,  as  well  as  the 
whole  of  the  composition,  is  very  fine. 

The  Ch,  of  the  Servi,  in  the  Piazza 
di  San  Pellegrino.*  in  1st  chapel  on 
rt.  is  a  monument  with  a  bas-relief 
representing  the  Adoration  of  the 
Shepherds,  erected  during  his  life  by 
Luffo  Numai,  for  himself  and  wife 
Caterina  Paulucci.  Over  the  altar  of 
the  sacristy  is  an  Annunciation  by  Pal- 
tnezzanoy  and  in  the  Chapter-house  a 
fresco,  wrongly  given  to  Giotto.  The 
frescoes  by  Agresti  here  are  now  almost 
destroyed. 

The  Ch,  of  Santa  Tnnita :  in  the  4th 
chapel  is  a  Virgin  and  Saints,  by  Men- 
zocchi (1500)  ;  and  in  the  sacristy  a 
Madonna  with  S.  Bartholomew  and  S. 
Antony  of  Padua,  by  Morolini  (1503). 


The  Ch,  of  S,  Antonio  Alibate :  a  Visi- 
tation, by  Palmezzano,  in  the  sacristy. 

The  house  adjoining  the  Spezeria 
Morandi  still  exhibits  some  traces  of 
the  frescoes  with  which  its  exterior  was 
adorned  by  Melozzo.  This  painter  was 
a  native  of  the  city ;  and  is  supposed 
to  have  been  a  pupil  of  Pietro  della 
Francesca.  Lanzi,  describing  these 
frescoes,  says  he  covered  **  the  front  of 
a  spezeria  with  arabesques  of  the  best 
style,  and  over  the  entrance  a  half- 
figure  remarkably  well  painted,  in  the 
act  of  pounding  drugs.'*  It  is  much 
to  be  regretted  that  these  remains  of 
so  interesting  a  master  have  not  been 
more  carefully  preserved :  they  are 
now  nearly  destroyed. 

GROUND  PLAN  OF  THE  PINACOrECA 
A  r  FORLI. 


• 
III 

IV 

II 

V 

1 

,  1 
a 

I.  Gallery  of  Ei^puvings.        a.  Entrance. 

II.  Sala  degli  Arazzl. 
m.  Gablnetto. 

IV.  Sala  di  Palmeggianl. 
y.  A  series  of  small  Rooms,  containlD(i(  some 
Aniiquities  and  objects  of  Natural  History 

The  Pinacoteca,  or  Gallery  of  Paint- 
ings, is  placed  in  the  Collegio^  or  Gin- 
nasio  Comunale,  formerly  a  convent  of 
missionaries,  in  the  Piazza  di  San  Pelle- 
grino. It  has  been  recently  arranged, 
and  contains  several  good  works,  espe- 
cially of  the  school  of  Palmezzano. 
Many  of  the  paintings  have  been  pre- 
sented by  noble  families  of  the  town, 
others  procured  by  exchange,  but  some 
— and  those  perhaps  the  best — from  the 
cathedral  and  other  churches.  The 
gallery  can  be  visited  every  day,  on 

2  D  3 


674 


Route-  72.— Foi^U— Citadel 


Sect.  VIL 


1 


application  to  the  custode  of  the  Li- 
brary at  the  CoUegio.  Entering  from 
the  principal  staircase,  a  long  room  con- 
tains numerous  engravings,  amongst 
which  a  few  by  Marc  Antonio  and 
some  frescoes  by  Agresti  from  the  ca- 
thedral, and  by  Menzocchi  from  the 
banqueting-hall  in  the  Palazzo  Munici- 
pale.  Out  of  this  opens  the  Sala  degli 
Arazzi  (II. )»  80  called  from  two  speci- 
mens of  Flemish  tapestry.  ■  It  contains 
several  second-rate  paintings,  amongst 
which  two  (42  and  46)  are  attributed 
to  Giotto,  and  two  others  (43  and  45), 
with  more  reason,  to  Fra  Angelico,  At 
the  end  of  this  hall  is  a  cabiqiiet  (III.), 
containing  3  portfolios  of  drawings  and 
sketches  by  Canova ;  they  belonged  to 
Cav.  Missirini,  the  secretary  of  that 
great  sculptor,  and  were  presented  by 
him  to  the  museum  of  his  native 
town.  On  the  walls  are  several  sketches 
and  drawings  by  Carlo  Cignani,  espe- 
cially for  the  paintings  which  he  exe- 
cuted in  the  chapel  of  the  Madonna 
del  Fuoco  in  the  cathedi'al.  In  the 
centre  of  thi^  cabinet  is  a  fine  bust  of 
Pino  Ordelaffi,  attributed  to  Donatella. 
From  the  Sala  degli  Arazzi  we  enter  the 
Great  Hall  (IV.),  called  the  Sala  di 
Palmeggiani,  a  fine  room,  nearly  40  yards 
long,  where  are  preserved  the  largest 
and  most  valuable  works  of  the  collec- 
tion, of  which  the  following  are  most 
worthy  of  notice: — 77  and  142.  Carlo 
Cignani,  two  fine  pictures  of  SS.  Va- 
lerianus  and  Mercurialis,  formerly  in 
the  cathedral.  78  and  141.  Damiano  di 
ZottOf  a  little-known  painter  of  Forli, 
SS.  Sebastian  and  Roch.  85.  Vanni, 
St.  Catherine.  88.  Vandi,  a  good  por- 
trait of  Nessoli.  87.  Tintoretto^  a  por- 
trait. 89.  B,  CaruWt,  Coronation  of  the 
Virgin,  signed  and  dated  1512.  92. 
Agresti,  a  Crucifixion,  the  head  of 
Christ  very  fine.  93.  Hondinelli,  of 
Ravenna,  a  Madonna.  97.  Bagnaca- 
vallOf  a  Holy  Family.  99.  Lor.  Credi, 
portrait  of  Caterina  Sforza.  101.  C. 
Cignaniy  St.  Gregory  the  Great.  106. 
Felice  Cignani,  his  own  portrait.  110. 
Carlo  Clgnanif  Santa  Rosa.  111.  Coti- 
gnola,  a  good  St.  Jerome.  112.  Gennari, 
the  Virgin  of  the  Rosary,  with  St. 
Dominick.  121.  Albani,  St.  Sebas- 
tian.   Palmezzano,  several  paintings  by 


him — 120.  A  Madonna,  in  his  early 
manner ;  1 25.  Christ  bearing  the  Cross ; 
127.  The  Last  Supper;  the  upper  part 
of  this  painting,  after  singular  vicissi- 
tudes and  transformations,  is  now  in  the 
National  Gal.  of  London ;  1 28.  His  por- 
trait, at  the  age  of  80;  and  129,  130. 
The  Flight  into  Egypt  and  the  Pre- 
sentation in  the  Temple.  126.  Mehzzo 
da  Forli,  the  Almighty.  131.  GuercinOy 
St.  John ;  this  picture  was  removed  to 
Paris  by  the  French.  133.  C.  Cignani, 
his  portrait.  A.  Sacchi,  St.  Peter, 
from  the  cathedral.  137.  Modigliana, 
S.  Valerian  and  his  fellow-martyr?. 
138.  C.  Cignani,  a  sketch  for  his  picture 
of  La  Notte  di  San  Giuseppe, 

Forli  has  a  fine  Piazza,  and  oame- 
rous  good  palaces.  The  Palazzo  del 
Governo  dates  from  the  14th  centy. 
In  the  Casa  Manzoni  is  a  monument 
to  a  member  of  the  family,  with  a  bas- 
relief  by  Canova.  Cornelius  Gallus 
the  poet,  Flavio  Biondo  the  historian, 
and  Morgagni  the  anatomist,  were 
natives  of  this  town. 

The  Citadel,  called  the  Eocca  di 
Ravaldino,  on  the  S.  side  of  the  town, 
was  founded  by  Cardinal  Albornoz 
in  1359,  and  enlarged  by  the  Orde- 
laffis  and  the  Riarios  (1472-1481);  it 
is  now  used  as  a  prison.  The  ruined 
Ramparts  recall  many  historical  asso- 
ciations of  the  middle  ages.  In  the 
15th  century  the  sovereignty  of  Forli 
and  Rimini  was  vested  in  Girolamo 
Riario,  the  nephew  of  Sixtus  IV.  He 
was  one  of  the  chief  actors  in  the  con- 
spiracy of  the  Pazzi,  and  had  married 
Catherine  Sforza,  the  natural  daughter 
of  Gian  Galeazzo,  an  alliance  by  which 
he  secured  the  powerful  protection  of 
the  Dukes  of  Milan.  His  enemies  did 
not  venture  to  attack  openly  a  prince  so 
protected ;  but  at  the  instigation,  it  is 
said,  of  Lorenzo  de*  Medici,  the  cap- 
tain of  his  guard  and  2  of  his  own 
officers  stabbed  him  while  at  dinner 
in  his  palace  of  Forli.  The  conspi- 
rators threw »  the  body  out  of  the 
window,  and  the  populace  dragged  it 
round  the  walls.  The  insurgents, 
having  seized  his  wife  and  children, 
and  thrown  them  into  prison,  pro- 
ceeded to  demand  the  keys  of  the 
citadel;   but   the  commander  refused 


ROMAGNA, 


JRoute  72. — Cesena, 


675 


fo  surrender  unless  ordered  to  do 
so  by  Catherine  herself.  The  con- 
spirators accordingly  allowed  her  to 
enter  the  gates,  retaining  her  children 
as  hostages  for  her  return;  but  she 
had  no  sooner  entered  within  the  walls, 
than  she  gave  orders  to  fire  on  the 
besiegers.  When  they  threatened  to 
resent  this  by  inflicting  summary  ven- 
geance on  her  children,  she  mounted  the 
ramparts  and  exclaimed,  ''If  you  kill 
them,  I  have  a  son  at  Imola;  I  am 
pregnant  of  another,  who  will  grow 
up  to  avenge  such  an  execrable  act." 
The  populace,  intimidated  by  her 
courage,  did  not  execute  their  threat, 
and  the  house  of  Sforza  shortly  after- 
wards avenged  the  indignities  she  had 
6uffered.  In  1499  Catherine  a^ain 
defended  Forli  against  the  combined 
forces  of  France  and  the  Church  under 
Caesar  Borgia  and  Ives  d*AlIegre ;  but 
after  an  heroic  struggle,  in  which  she 
is  described  as  contesting  every  inch 
of  ground,  retreating  before  her  assail- 
ants from  tower  to  tower,  she  was  csqp- 
tured  and  sent  a  prisoner  to  Rome. 
Machiavelli,  although  the  counseller  of 
the  alliance  with  Borgia,  celebrates  the 
**  magnanimous  resolution"  of  this  re- 
markable woman,  and  her  conduct  is 
recorded  with  admiration  by  most  of 
the  contemporary  historians.  The  cita- 
del, consisting  of  4  low  round  towers, 
and  of  a  central  square  castle  or  keep^ 
is  the  only  portion  of  the  old  defences 
in  tolerable  preservation. 

[A  road  leads  from  Forli  along  the 
I.  bank  of  the  Ronco  to  Ravenna,  about 
20  m.  distant  (Rte.  66);  and  there 
is  an  excellent  road  across  the  Apen- 
nines to  Florence,  Rte.  65.] 

The  rly.  to  Rimini  crosses  the  Ronco 
( Utis  and  Bedesis)  3  m.  after  leaving 
Forli,  beyond  which  is  the  small  town  of 

8  kil.  Forlimpopoli  Stat.y  with  a 
Pop.  of  2324,  which  almost  retains 
its  ancient  name  of  Forum  Popilii. 
It  was  ruined,  by  Grimoaldus  king 
ojf  the  Lombards,  in  700.  4  m. 
S.S.E.  is  BertinotVy  an  episcopal  town  of 
1546  Inhab.,  picturesquely  situated  on 
a  hill,  whose  slopes  are  famous  for  their 
vines.  It  was  one  of  the  ancient  fiefs 
of  the  Malatestas,  by  whom  it  was 
surrendered  to  the  Church.      Under 


Alexander  VI.  it  became  the  property 
of  Csesar  Borgia.  It  now  contains  a 
large  educational  establishment.  The 
view  from  Bertinoro,  over  the  valley  of 
the  Po,  extending  to  the  Alps,  is  very 
fine.  At  the  village  of  PolentOf  4  m. 
farther  S.,  originated  the  family  of  the 
Novellas,  better  known  in  history  as 
Polentas  of  Ravenna,  celebrated  as  the 
lords  of  that  city  in  the  13th  centy. 
and  as  the  protectors  of  Dante  in  his 
exile. 

The  river  Savio  (Sapis)  is  crossed 
by  the  rly.  and  the  carriage-road  under 
the  walls  of  Cesena  by  a  fine  bridge 
constructed  of  Istrian  limestone  by 
Clement  VIII. 

1  ]  kil.  Cesena  Stat,  (/nn,  Posta,  called 
also  Leone  Bianco;  civil  people),  still 
retaining  the  name  of  the  last  town  of 
Cisalpine  Gaul  on  the  ^milian  Way. 
It  is  a  neat  city  of  8684  Inhab., 
prettily  situated  in  an  agreeable  and 
fertile  country,  on  the  slopes  of  a 
hill  overlooking  the  plain  watered  by 
the  Savio.  This  description  of  its 
position  will  not  fail  to  recall  the  lines 
of  Dante : — 

"  E  quella,  a  cni  il  Savio  bagna  11  fianoo, 
Cosi  com'  ella  sie'  tra  11  piano  e  11  monte, 
Tra  tirannia  si  vive  e  stato  firaiico." 

Inf.  xxvii. 

"  And  she  whose  flank  is  wash'd  of  Savio's  wave, 
As  'twlxt  the  level  and  the  steep  she  lies. 
Lives  so  *twixt  tyrant  power  and  liberty." 

Qxry*a  l^aru. 

The  Palazzo  Puhblico  in  the  great 
square  is  a  fine  building,  and  is  6ma- 
mented  with  a  statue  of  Pius  VI.,  who 
was  a  native  of  the  town,  as  was  also 
his  successor  Pius  VII.  In  the  inte- 
rior of  the  palace  is  a  remarkable 
picture  of  the  Virgin  and  Saints,  by 
Francesco  Francia.  The  Capuchin  Ch, 
contains  a  good  work  of  Guercino.  The 
principal  object  of  interest  in  Cesena 
is  the  Library,  founded  by  Domeuico 
Malatesta  Novello,  brother  of  Sigis- 
mund  lord  of  Rimini,  in  1452  :  it 
contains  4000  MSS.  Many  of  them 
were  executed  by  order  of  Mala- 
testa himself.  The  oldest  and  most 
curious  in  the  collection  are  the  Ety- 
mologies of  S.  Isidore,  of  the  8th  or  9th 
century.  It  was  in  this  library  that 
Paulus  Manutius  shut  himself  up  to  col- 


i 


676 


Route  72. — Savigaano. 


Sect.  vn. 


lect  materials  for  his  editions.  The 
collection  was  formed  by  Malatesta» 
when  that  illustrioas  warrior  returned 
to  Cesena,  severely  wounded,  and  was 
bequeathed  by  him  to  the  Franciscan 
friars,  with  an  annuity  of  200  golden 
ducats  to  keep  it  up. 

Cesena  is  one  of  the  earliest  epis- 
copal sees  in  Italy;  the  first  bishop 
was  St.  Philemon,  a.d.  92.  In  the 
turbulent  pontificate  of  Gregory  XI. 
the  town  was  ferociously  pillaged 
by  the  cruel  cardinal  Robert  of  Ge- 
neya,  whom  the  pope  sent  into  Italy 
from  Avignon  with  a  company  of 
foreign  adventurers.  He  entered  Ce- 
sena, February  1,  1377,  and  ordered 
all  the  inhabitants  to  be  massacred. 
Sismondi  says  that  he  was  heard  to  call 
out  during  the  fearful  scene,  "  I  will 
■have  more  blood !  Kill  all !  Blood  I 
blood !" 

About  a  mile  from  Cesena,  on  a 
commanding  hill,  is  the  handsome  ch. 
of  the  Madonna  or  Santa  Maria  del 
Monte,  the  work  of  Bramante,  where 
many  Roman  urns  and  other  relics  have 
been  found.  Pius  VII.  took  the  vows 
as  a  Benedictine  monk  in  the  adjoining 
monastery,  and  was  long  known  there 
as  the  Padre  Chiaramonte. 

There  is  a  road  from  Cesena  into 
Tuscany,  following  the  valley  of  the 
Savio  to  S.  Pietro  in  Bagno,  from 
which  it  crosses  the  central  chain  of 
the  Apennines,  into  the  upper  valley  of 
the  Casentino  at  Bibiena ;  but  it  is  only 
practicable  for  horses  or  pedestrians. 

A  few  miles  S.  of  Cesena  are  the 
sulphur-mines,  which  in  a  ^reat  mea- 
sure supply  the  sulphuric  acid  works  of 
Bologna,  and  the  sulphur  refinery  at 
Rimini.  The  sulphur  is  beautifully 
crystallised,  and  is  imbedded  in  the 
tertiary  marine  marls.  The  sulphur- 
deposits  which  exist  throughout  the 
hills  between  Cesena  and  Pesaro  are 
so  rich  that  the  quantity  now  pro- 
duced might  be  greatly  increased. 

2  m.  after  leaving  Cesena,  the  little 
river  Pisciatello,  supposed  by  many  to  be 
the  Rubicon,  is  crossed,  and  3  m.  farther 
<m  the  Rigossa;  between  Cesena  and 
Savignano  by  the  roadside  stands  a 
column  on  which  is  inscribed  a  Senattis- 
ConsuUumy  denouncing  as  sacrilegious 


any  one  who  should  presume  to  cross 
the  Rubicon  with  a  legion,  army,  or 
cohort.  It  was  considered  authentic 
by  Montesquieu,  but  no  doubt  is  now 
entertained  that  it  is  apocryphal.  Be- 
yond it  the  road  crosses  the  Fiumicino, 
by  the  bridge  of  Savignano,  a  remark- 
able Roman  work,  built  of  travertine, 
little  noticed  by  travellers.  The  small 
stream  which  tiows  under  it,  the  Fiumi- 
cino, has  had  almost  as  many  advocates 
as  the  Pisciatello  as  the  true  representa- 
tive of  the  Rubicon,  the  line  of  separa^ 
tion  between  ancient  Italy  and  Cisal- 
pine Gaul.  It  unites  with  the  Rigossa 
and  Pisciatello,  and  falls  into  the 
Adriatic  about  6  m.  lower  down.  Dr. 
Cramer,  followiiig  Cluverius,  thought 
that  these  united  streams,  which  are 
here  known  as  the  Fiumicino,  must 
be  identified  with  the  Rubicon ;  the 
strongest  argument  in  favour  of  which 
is  the  distance  of  12  m.  given  in  the 
Peutingerian  Table ;  but  we  shall  pre- 
sently arrive  at  one  which  has  much 
more  claim  than  either  of  them  to  be 
identified  with  that  celebrated  stream. 

14  kil.  Savignano  Stat.,  a  town  of  2393 
Inhab.  {Inn,  Posta.)  Savignano  has  been 
considered  to  mark  the  site  of  Compi- 
turn  Vi(B  j^milicB ;  but  many  antiqua- 
ries are  disposed  to  place  that  ancient 
station  at  Longiano,  a  village  a  few 
miles  farther  inland,  where  ruins  with 
several  relics  confirming  this  opinion 
have  been  found.  The  town  was  for- 
tified by  Innocent  VI.  in  1361 .  There 
is  a  good  road  from  here  to  San  Ma- 
rino. 

3  m.  beyond  this  place,  before  arriving 
at  the  town  of 

5  kil.  Sant*  Arcangelo  Stat.,  the 
birthplace  of  Clement  XIV,,  the  road 
crosses,  by  a  Roman  bridge,  the  Uso, 
a  considerable  stream,  which  is  called 
to  this  day  //  Hubicone.  It  flows  di- 
rectly into  the  Adriatic,  after  a  course 
of  about  25  m.  from  its  source  between 
Monte  Tiffi  and  Sarsina,  rising  about 
midway  between  the  ^vio  and  the 
Marecchia,  and  running  parallel  to  the 
latter  river  for  several  miles.  At  its 
mouth  it  is  a  copious  stream,  and,  if 
its  course  be  carefully  examined,  the 
traveller  can  hardly  avoid  arriving  at 
the  conclusion   that  it  is  more  likely 


RoMAGNA.         Eoute  72. — Eimdni — Arch  of  Augustus. 


577 


to  have  formed  a  boundary  than  any 
of  the  others  he  has  passed.  A  farther 
confirmatory  reason  is  the  fact  that  the 
peasantry,  who  can  have  no  interest  in 
upholding  the  theories  of  antiquaries,  to 
this  day  give  it  the  name  of  II  Rubicone. 
From  these  circumstances  we  cannot  but 
consider  this  stream  to  be  the  Rubicon 
of  the  ancients.  It  may,  perhaps,  be 
useful  to  give  a  summary  of  the  several 
streams  between  Cesena  and  Rimini 
which  have  been  considered  to  be  the 
Rubicon,  that  travellers  may  prosecute 
the  investigation  for  themselves: — 1st, 
the  Pisciatello,  rising  near  Monte  Far- 
netto;  2nd,  the  Rigossa,  near  Ronco- 
freddo ;  8rd,  the  Fiumicino,  or  River  of 
Savignano,  near  Sogliano ;  all  3  uniting 
into  a  single  channel  before  entering 
the  sea,  where  it  is  crossed  by  the  hiffh 
road  from  Ravenna  to  Rimini  (Rte.  71 ; ; 
and  4th,  the  Uso,  rising  near  to  the 
Tuscan  frontier,  and  flowing  direct 
into  the  Adriatic,  receiving  some  minor 
torrents  in  its  course,  and  becoming  an 
ample  stream  at  its  embouchure. 

Before  entering  Rimini  we  cross  the 
Bridge  of  Augmtus,  erected  over  the 
Marecchia,  the  an  cient  Ariminus,  more 
than  18  centuries  ago,  and  still  one  of 
the  best  preserved  Ilotnan  constructions 
of  its  kind  in  Italy.  It  was  begun  by 
Augustus  in  the  last  year  of  his  life, 
and  completed  by  Tiberius;  it  has 
5  arches,  and  is  entirely  built  of 
white  Istrian  limestone.  The  principal 
have  a  span  of  27  feet,  and  the  width  of 
the  piers  is  nearly  13.  The  inscriptions 
on  it  are  scarcely  to  be  made  out,  but 
a  copy  is  preserved  on  a  tablet  under  the 
Porta  S.  Giuliano.  The  river  at  this 
point  separates  Romagna  from  the  an- 
cient maritime  Pentapolis,  the  modem 
province  of  Urbino  and  Pesaro  ;  the 
Via  iEmilia  from  Piacenza  and  Bo- 
logna her£  falls  into  the  Via  Flaminia. 

'9  kil.  Rimini  Stat,  (fmi:  Tre  Re, 
clean  rooms  ;  '*  very  fair  and  moder- 
ate"—i?.  B.,  May  18G5),  an  interest- 
ing episcopal  city  of  16,216  souls, 
situated  in  a  rich  plain  between  the 
rivers  Marecchia  and  Ansa ;  it  is 
much  resorted  to  by  the  inhabitants  of 
the  Legations  for  sea-bathing  in  the 
summer.  The  baths  are  about  1  m. 
distant ;    there    is   a  fair    restaurant, 


with  frequent  omnibuses  to  the  town. 
Rimini  occupies  the  site  of  the  Um- 
brian  city  of  Ariminum.  It  became 
a  Roman  colony  at  an  early  period, 
and  was  patronized  and  embellished 
by  Julius  Cffisar,  Augustus,  and  many 
of  their  successors.  During  the  Lower 
Empire  it  was  the  most  northern  of  the 
5  cities  which  gave  to  a  lieutenant  of 
the  Emperor  of  Constantinople  the  title 
of"  Exarch  of  the  Pentapolis."  The 
cities  governed  by  this  exarch  were 
Rimini,  Pesaro,  Fano,  Sinigallia,  and 
Ancona:  his  jurisdiction  comprised 
nearly  all  that  portion  of  the  shores  of  the 
Adriatic  embraced  by  the  modem  pro- 
vinces of  La  Romagna  and  Le  Marche. 
There  was  another  and  more  inland 
Pentapolis,  from  which  this  was  often 
distinguished  by  the  epithet  "mari- 
tima.  In  1200,  when  Rimini  belonged 
to  the  German  Empire,  Otho  III.  sent 
into  the  Marches  as  his  viceroy  Malatesta, 
the  ancestor  of  that  illustrious  family 
to  which  Rimini  is  indebted  for  its  sub- 
sequent importance.  His  descendant 
Galcotto  was  created  lord  of  Rimini  by 
Clement  VI.  It  passed  from  the  Mala- 
testa family  to  the  Venetians  by  sale, 
and  reverted  to  the  pope  after  the 
battle  of  Gera  d'Adda.  The  Malates- 
tas  often  endeavoured  to  regain  it,  but 
in  vain,  and  the  treaties  of  Tolentino 
and  of  Vienna  confirmed  it  to  the 
Church.  The  name  of  Malatesta  re- 
calls the  fine  passage  of  the  Inferno, 
in  which  Dante  describes  the  lord  of 
Rimini  as  **  the  old  mastiff:*' — 

"  E  11  mastin  vecchio,  e  11  nuovo  da  Verucchio, 
Che  fecer  di  Montagna  il  mat  govcmo, 
L&  dove  aogllMi,  fian  del  denti  suochio." 

It{f.  xxvii. 

"  The  old  mastiff  of  Yerncchio  and  the  young, 
That  tore  Montagna  In  their  wrath,  still  make, 
Where  they  are  wont,  an  auger  of  their  fangs." 

Cary's  Trans. 

The  celebrated  council  between  the 
Arians  and  Athanasians  was  held  here 
in  3r)9. 

The  principal  object  of  classical  in- 
terest at  Rimini,  after  the  bridge,  is 
the  Arch  of  Augustus,  now  the  Porta 
Romana,  under  which  the  road  to 
Rome  passes.  It  is  one  of  the  most 
remarkable  monuments  on  the  eastern 
coast  of  Italy,  and  is  built  of  travertine. 


578 


Route  72. — Rimini — Cathedral — Churches.      Sect.  VII. 


It  was  erected  in  honour  of  Augustas, 
and  commemorates  the  gratitude  of  the 
inhabitants  for  the  repairing  of  their 
roads.  Its  architecture  is  simple  and 
massive,  with  2  Corinthian  columns  on 
each  side ;  above  the  arch  are  medal- 
lions, with  the  heads  of  Neptune  and 
Venus  on  one  side,  and  of  Jupiter  and 
Minerva,  with  a  fine  bull's  head,  on  the 
other.  The  pediment  is  proportion- 
ately small,  being  scarcely  larger  than 
the  breadth  of  the  arch :  a  great  part  of 
the  superstructure  is  of  the  middle  ages. 

The  great  attraction  of  the  town  is 
the  Ch,  of  8.  Francesco,  now  the  cathe- 
dral. This  noble  edifice,  originally 
built  in  the  14th  century  in  the  Italian- 
Gothic  style,  was  reduced  into  its 
present  form  by  Sigismundo  Pandolfo 
Malatesta,  from  the  designs  of  Leon 
Battista  Alberti,  in  1450.  It  is  the 
masterpiece  of  that  great  architect,  and 
is  an  interesting  link  in  the  history  of  art, 
made  by  Alberti  to  conceal  the  Gothic, 
and  to  revive  the  classical  style.  The 
front,  consisting  of  4  columns  and  3 
arches,  is  unfinished,  but  the  side  is 
masked  by  a  series  of  7  grand  and  simple 
arches  on  panelled  piers  detached  from 
the  wall  of  the  ch.,  elevated  on  a  con- 
tinued basement,  concealing  without 
altering  the  Gothic  windows.  The 
whole  building  is  covered  with  the 
armorial  bearings  of  the  Malatestas  and 
their  alliances;  the  most  striking  and 
frequent  of  these  ornaments  are  the  rose 
and  elephant,  and  .the  united  initials 
of  Sigismundo  and  his  wife  Isotta. 
Under  the  arches  above  mentioned,  on 
the  side  of  the  building,  are  7  large  sar- 
cophagi in  the  mediseval  style,  wherein 
are  deposited  the  ashes  of  the  eminent 
men  whom  Malatesta  had  collected 
around  him,  poets,  orators,  philosophers, 
and  soldiers.  The  effect  produced  by 
these  tombs  is  as  grand  as  the  idea  of 
making  them  an  ornament  to  his  ch. 
was  generous  and  noble.  The  interior 
retains  much  of  its  original  architec- 
ture in  the  pointed  arches  of  the  nave, 
and  is  full  of  interesting  memorials  of 
the  Malatesta  family. 

The  chapels  are  rich  in  bas-reliefs, 
many  of  which  are  of  great  beauty :  as 
works  of  art  they  deserve  an  attentive 
study.   The  elephants  of  the  first  chapel 


which  sustain  the  figure  of  the  patron 
saint  placed  over  the  altar,  and  sup- 
port the  elaborately  worked  arch  give 
an  Oriental  character  to  the  building. 
Among  the  sepulchral  monuments 
those  of  Sigismundo  himself,  between 
the  entrance  and  the  chapel  of  S.  Sigis  • 
mund,  the  first  on  the  rt. ;  of  his  fa- 
vourite wife  Isotta,  in  the  chapel  of  S. 
Michael,  in  which  the  statue  gf  the 
archangel  over  the  altar  is  said  to  pre- 
sent her  likeness ;  of  his  brother  "  olim 
principi  nunc  protectori;"  of  his  stepson 
(1468) ;  and  of  the  illustrious  females  of 
his  house,  "  Malatestorum  domtts  he- 
roidum  gepulcrum,"  are  the  most  re- 
markable ;  that  of  Sigismund  bears  the 
date  of  1468,  and  is  the  finest  in  taste 
and  execution.  The  bronze  fruits  and 
fiowers  on  the  columns  of  the  chapel  of 
the  SS.  Sacramento  are  supposed  to  be  by 
Ghiberti.  In  the  Chapel  of  the  Kelics 
is  an  interesting  fresco,  by  Pietro  delta 
FraiMesca,  of  Sigismundo  kneeling  before 
his  patron  saint,  St.  Sigismund  of  Hun- 
gary ;  behind  him  are  two  greyhoundb ; 
with  a  view  of  the  castle  of  Rimini, 
erected  by  him,  in  a  medallion  above, 
sigued  **  Petri  di  Burgo  opus,  1481."  In 
the  2nd  chapel  on  1.  is  St.  Francis  re- 
ceiving the  Stigmata  by  VasaH ;  and  in 
the  sacristy  a  Marriage  of  the  Virgin 
by  Benedetto  Coda. 

Of  the  other  churches  of  Rimini, 
that  of  S.  Giuliano  contains  a  fine  altar- 
piece,  representing  the  miartyrdom  of 
St.  Julian,  by  Paolo  Veronese^  and  a 
curious  early  picture  of  the  life  of  that 
saint,  in  compartments,  by  Lattanzio 
delta  Marca,  dated  1357.  The  ch.  of  S, 
Oirolamo  has  a  good  painting  of  the 
Saint  by  Guercino  ;  the  chapel  is  painted 
by  Pronti.  Rimini  was  erected  into  a 
bishopric  a.d.  260;  its  first  prelate  is 
supposed  to  have  been  S.  Gaudentius. 
At  the  convent  of  the  Capucctni  tL,re  some 
ruins,  said,  without  much  foundation, 
to  belong  to  an.  amphitheatre  erected 
by  Publius  Sempronius. 

The  Palazzo  del  Comune  contains  a 
beautiful  altarpiece  painted  by  Domenico 
del  GhirlandaiOf  for  Carlo  Malatesta ;  a 
picture  by  Simone  da  Pesaro,  and  ji 
Pieta  by  G,  Bellini, 

In  the  market-place  is  a  pedestal 
with  the  following  inscription,  record- 


ROMAGNA. 


Moute  72. — Bimini — Library, 


579 


ing  that  it  served  as  the  suggestum.  from 
vrhich  Caesar  harangued  his  army  after 
the  passage  of  the  Rubicon :  —  C. 
Caesar    Dict.    Rubicone    superato 

CiVILI    del.    COMMILIT.    SUOS    HlC   IN 

FoRo  Ar.  adlocut.  This  is  probably 
as  apocryphal  as  the  Senatus  Con- 
sultum  on  the  column  at  Savignano. 
Near  this  is  pointed  out  the  spot  where 
St.  Anthony  preached  to  the  people,  and 
uear  the  canal  is  a  chapel  where  the  saint 
is  said  to  have  preached  to  the  fishes 
because  the  people  would  not  listen  to 
him.  In  the  square  of  the  Palazzo 
Pubblico  may  be  noticed  a  handsome 
fountain  and  a  bronze  statue  of  Pope 
Paul  V.  The  ancient  port  of  Rimini, 
situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  Marec- 
chia,  has  been  gradually  destroyed 
by  the  sands  brought  down  by  that 
stream ;  and  the  marbles  of  the  Roman 
harbour  were  appropriated  by  Sigis- 
mund  Malatesta  to  the  construction  of 
his  cathedral.  Theodoric  is  said  to 
have  embarked  his  army  in  this  port 
for  the  siege  of  Ravenna.  It  is  now 
the  resort  of  numerous  small  vessels 
occupied  in  the  fisheries  ;  half  the  popu- 
lation of  Rimini  are  said  to  be  fishermen. 

The  Castel  Malateata^  or  the  fortress, 
now  mutilated  and  disfigured  by  un- 
sightly barmcks,  bears  the  name  of  its 
founder:  the  rose  and  elephant  are 
still  traceable  upon  its  walls,  with  the 
date  1445. 

The  Library  was  founded  in  1617, 
by  Gambalunga  the  jurist.  It  contains 
about  23,000  volumes.  With  the  ex- 
ception of  a  few  classical  MSS.,  and  a 
papyrus  known  by  Manni's  commen- 
tary, the  interest  of  its  manuscript  col- 
lection is  chiefly  local. 

The  house  of  Francesoa  da  i2«n»wt  has 
been  identified  with  that  occupied  by 
Count  Cisterni,  fonnerly  the  Palazzo 
Ruffi ;  or  rather,  it  is  supposed  to 
have  occupied  the  site  of  the  existing 
building.  There  is  no  part  of  the 
Divina  Commedia  so  full  of  touching 
feeling  and  tenderness  as  the  tale  of 
guilty  love  in  which  Francesca  reveals 
to  Dante  the  secret  of  her  soul,  and 
of  her  soul's  master.  Its  interest  is 
increased  by  the  recollection  that  Fran- 
cesca was  the  daughter  of  Guido  da 


Polenta,  lord  of  Ravenna,  who  was  the 
friend  and  generousprotector  of  Dante  in 
his  exile.  The  delicacy  with  which  she 
conveys  in  a  single  sentence  the  story  of 
her  crime  is  surpassed  only  by  the  pas- 
sage where  the  poet  represents  the  bitter 
weeping  of  the  condemned  shades  as  so 
far  overcoming  his  feelings  that  he  faints 
with  compassion  for  their  misery : — 

"  Nol  leg^vamo  un  giomo  per  diletto 
Di  Lcuicilotto,  come  Amor  lo  strinse : 
fioli  eravamo,  e  senz'  alcun  sospetto. 

Per  pid  fiate  li  occhi  ci  sospinse 
Quella  lettura,  e  scolorocci  'I  viso : 
Ma  solo  mi  pmito  fu  quel  che  ci  vinse. 

Qnando  ie^emmo  il  disiato  riso 
Esser  baciato  da  cotanto  amaiite, 
Qaesti,  che  mai  da  me  non  fia  diviso, 

La  bocca,  ml  baci6  tutto  tremante  : 
Galeotto  fu  il  libro,  e  chi  lo  scrisse— 
Quel  giorno  pin  non  vi  leggemmo  avante. 

Mentre  che  lo  uno  spirto  questo  dlsse, 
L'  altro  piangeva  si,  che  di  pietade 
Jo  venni  men  oosl  come  io  morlsse, 

E  caddi,  come  corpo  morto  cade." 

" '  We  read  one  day  for  pastime,  seated  nigh. 

Of  Laucilot,  how  love  enchaiu'd  him  too. 

We  were  alone,  quite  unsuspiciously. 
But  oft  our  eyes  met,  and  our  cheeks  in  hue 

All  o'er  discoloured  by  that  reading  were ; 

But  one  point  only  wholly  us  o*erthrew ; 
When  we  read  the  long-sigh'd-for  smile  of  her, 

To  be  thus  kiss'd  by  such  devote<l  lover, 

He  who  from  me  can  be  divided  ne'er 
Kiss'd  my  mouth,  trembling  in  the  act  all  over. 

Accursed  was  the  book  and  he  who  wrote  ! 

That  day  no  further  leaf  we  did  uncover.' 
While  thus  one  spirit  told  us  of  their  lot, 

The  other  wept,  so  that  with  pity's  thralls 

I  swoon'd  as  if  by  death  I  had  been  smote, 
And  fell  down  even  as  a  dead  body  falls." 

Trans,  by  Lord  Byron. 

From  Rimini  the  rly.  continues  to 
Ancona  by 

19  kil.  La  Cattolica  Stat. 

16  kil,  Peaaro  Stat, 

13  kil.  Fano  Stat, 

21  kil.  Sinigaglia, 

13  kil.  Case  Brucciate, 

13  kil.  Ancona  (see  Central  Italy,  Rte. 
87). 

The  Castel  di  S,  Leo,  to  the  west- 
ward of  Rimini,  is  remarkable  as  the 
place  where  Cagliostro,  the  celebrated 
impostor,  died  in  exile  in  1794. 

There  is  a  bridle- road  to  S.  Leo, 
and  from  there  up  the  valley  of  the 
Marecchia,  by  Badia  Tedalda,  to  Pieve 
S.  Stefano  in  the  upper  valley  of  the 
Tiber,  and  thence  by  the.  sanctuary 
of  Alvernia  to  Bibiena  and  Florence, 
by    which    the    fishermen     at    times 


.80 


Route  72. — San  Marino, 


Sect.  VII. 


supply  the  Tuscan  capital  with  the 
produce  of  the  Adriatic.  The  mountains 
over  which  it  passes — the  Alpe  deila 
Luna — are  highly  picturesque ;  the  road 
is  said  at  its  highest  point  to  command 
a  view  of  the  Adriatic  and  Mediterra- 


nean. 


EXCURSION  TO  SAN  MARINO. 

About  13  m.  from  Himini,  isolated 
in  the  heart  of  tlie  Emilian  Provinces, 
^  like  the  rock  on  which  it  stands,  is  San 
Marino,  long  the  only  Surviving  repre- 
sentative of  Italian  liberty.  This 
miniature  State,  the  smallest  which 
the  world  has  seen  since  the  days  of 
ancient  Greece,  and  whose  unwritten 
constitution  has  lasted  for  14  cen- 
turies, has  retained  its  independence 
while  all  the  rest  of  the  peninsula, 
from  the  spurs  of  the  Alps  to  the  gulf 
of  Taranto,  has  been  convulsed  by 
political  changes.  Yet,  with  all  this, 
the  republic,  until  the  year  1847,  made 
but  little  progress,  rather  studying  to 
preserve  itself  unaltered  by  communi- 
cation with  its  neighbours,  than  keep- 
ing pace  with  the  improvements  of  the 
age.  The  printing  press  had  not  then 
found  its  way  into  its  territory,  men- 
dicity was  common,  and  a  gaming- 
table had  very  recently  contributed  its 
share  to  the  public  revenues.  The  con- 
stitution of  this  singular  republic  un- 
derwent an  important  change  in  1847 
amidst  the  universal  agitation  of  the 
Italian  States.  The  general  council, 
which  had  hitherto  been  composed 
promiscuously  of  60  nobles  and  ple- 
beians, elected  by  the  people,  was  then 
transformed  into  a  chamber  of  repre- 
sentatives. Every  citizen  was  declared 
an  elector,  and  the  sittings  of  the 
chamber  were  ordered  to  be  public. 
This  chamber  constitutes  the  legisla- 
tive body.  The  voting  is  by  ballot, 
and  two-thirds  are  necessary  to  con- 
firm all  official  acts.  A  council  of 
12,  two-thirds  of  whom  are  changed 
every  year,  communicate  between  the 
legislative  body  and  2  captains  —  1 
appointed  for  the  town,  the  other  for 
the  countiy — who  are  charged  with  the 


executive  power,  and  are  elected  every 
6  months.  The  judicial  office,  like  in  the 
free  towns  of  Italy  in  the  middle  ages,  is 
not  confided  to  a  citizen  of  the  republic, 
but  a  stranger,  possessing  a  diploma  of 
doctor  of  laws,  is  appointed  to  discharg-e 
its  functions,  and  is  elected  for  3  years  ; 
a  physician  and  surgeon  are  also  chosen 
from  persons  who  are  not  citizens,  and 
are  elected  for  a  similar  period.  In  a 
state  so  constituted  it  might  be  ex- 
pected that  great  simplicity  of  manners 
would  prevail ;  hence  the  chief  magis- 
trate will  often  be  found  farming  his  own 
land,  and  the  senators  pruning  their  own 
vines.  The  territory  of  the  republic  is 
17  sq.  m.  in  extent,  its  population  is 
under  7000,  and  its  miniature  army  does 
not  number  more  than  40  men.  It  has 
3  castles,  4  convents,  and  5  churches,  I 
very  recently  built,  with  a  handsome 
portico. 

The  city  occupies  the  crest  of  the 
rocky  mountain  wliich  forms  so  conspi- 
cuous an  object  from  the  high  road,  and 
contains  about  700  Inhab.  Two  roads 
lead  to  it,  one  from  Savignano,  the 
other  from  Rimini;  although  steep 
and  rugged,  it  is  broad  and  practic- 
able for  carriages,  the  latter  portion, 
however,  only  with  oxen.  It  runs  up 
the  valley  of  the  Ausa,  which  rises  in 
the  hills  of  S.  Marino.  The  territory  of 
the  latter  is  entered  1  m.  before  reach- 
ing Serravalle. 

The  town,  or  as  it  is  called  H  Borgo, 
situated  on  the  declivity  of  the  hill,  is 
the  place  where  the  principal  •  mhab. 
reside  ;  it  contains  about  500  souls. 
The  soil  of  the  lower  grounds  is  fertile, 
and  the  little  town  of  Serravalle,  at  the 
foot  of  the  mountain,  9  m.  from  Rimini, 
has  a  thriving  trade  with  the  several 
towns  in  the  plain.  S.  Marino  itself, 
on  the  crest  of  the  mountain,  from  its 
high  situation,  2635  Eng.  ft.  above  the 
sea,  is  exposed  to  a  cold  and  variable 
climate,  and  snow  frequently  lies  there 
when  the  lowlands  enjoy  a  compara- 
tively summer  temperature. 

The  origin  of  the  republic  is  as  ro- 
mantic as  its  position.  According  to  the 
legend,  a  stonemason  from  Dsumatia, 
called  Marinus,  who  embraced  Chris- 
tianity, after  working  30  years  at  Rimini 
witharew  to  this  mountain  to  escape  the 


ROMAGNA. 


RovJte  *l2,'-'San  Marino, 


581 


persecutions  under  Diocletian.  Leading 
the  life  of  an  austere  anchorite,  his 
£Eime  soon  spread,  and  he  obtained 
disciples,  as  well  as  a  reputation  for 
sanctity.  The  princess  to  whom  the 
mountain  belonged  presented  it  to  him, 
and  instead  of  founding  a  convent, 
after  the  example  of  the  time,  he  esta- 
blished a  republic.  During  the  middle 
ages  the  independence  of  the  state  was 
often  threatened  by  the  dangerous  vici- 
nity of  the  Malatestas.  In  the  last  cen- 
tury Cardinal  Alberoni,  then  legate  of 
Homagna,  intrigued  against  it,  and, 
on  the  pretence  that  the  government  had 
become  an  oligarchy,  invaded  and  took 
possession  of  its  territory  in  the  name 
of  the  Church.  An  appeal  to  ClemeUt 
XII.  obtained  an  order  that  the  citizens 
should  determine  how  they  would  be 
governed ;  at  a  general  assembly  they 
unanimously  voted  against  submission 
to  the  Church,  and  the  papal  troops 
were  withdrawn.  But  the  events  which 
subsequently  convulsed  Europe  threat- 
ened the  republic  more  than  the 
intrigues  of  the  Church ;  and  it  would 
doubtless  have  long  since  ceased  to  exist 
except  in  history,  if  it  had  not  been 
saved  by  the  .magnanimous  conduct 
of  Antonio  Onofrt,  who  deserved  the 
title  of  "  Father  of  his  country,"  in- 
scribed by  his  fellow-citizens  iipon  his 
tomb.  This  remarkable  man  spent  his 
life  in  its  service,  and  by  his  bold  and 
decided  patriotism  induced  Napoleon 
to  rescind  his  decree  for  the  suppres- 
sion of  the  republic.  When  summoned 
before  the  emperor,  he  said,  "  Sire,  the 
only  thing  you  can  do  for  us  is  to 
leave  us  just  where  we  are."  In  spite 
of  all  subsequent  overtures,  Onofri  main- 
tained so  perfect  a  neutrality,  that  he 
was  enabled  to  vindicate  his  country 
before  the  Congress  of  Vienna,  and 
obtain  the  recognition  of  its  indepen- 
dence. Unlike  other  republics,  San 
Marino  did  not  forget  its  debt  of  gra- 
titude to  the  preserver  of  its  liberties, 
for,  besides  the  inscription  on  Onofri's 
tomb,  a  marble  bust  in  the  council- 


chamber  records  his  services,  and  their 
acknowledgment  by  the  state.  In  more 
recent  times  San  Marino  has  not  in  vain 
solicited  the  protection  and  support  of 
the  First  Napoleon's  successor  on  the 
Iniperial  throne. 

There  are  few  objects  of  interest  to 
be  found  in  San  Marino,  if  we  except 
a  picture  of  the  Holy  Family  in  the 
council-chamber,   attributed  to  Qiulio 
Romano,    At  Borgo  there  is  a  singular 
cavern,    into    which    a    strong    cur- 
rent  of  cold   air    perpetually   rushes 
from  the  crevices  of  the  rock.    The 
view  from  the  summit  of  the  moun- 
tain, especially  from  the  castle  tower, 
from  which  on  a    clear  morning  at 
sunrise    the   mountains    of  Dalmatia 
are    visible,  and  from  variouis  points 
of  its  declivities,  is  sufficient  to  repay 
a  visit ;  on  a  clear  day,  the  deep  gulf 
of  the  Adriatic  is  traced  as  far  as  the 
coast  of  Dalmatia,  and  a  wide  prospect 
of  the    chain   of  Apennines  is   com- 
manded, singularly  in  contrast   with 
the  sea  view.    But  the  interest  of  Sau 
Marino   in    our    time,   independently 
of  its  historical  associations,  has  been 
derived  from  the  late  Cav.  Borghesi, 
one  of  the  first   scholars  of  modem 
Italy,  who  made  it  his  place  of  residence 
for  nearly  40  years.   That  learned  man, 
a  native  of  Savignano,  was  an  adopted 
citizen,  and  his  archaeological  acquire- 
ments made  a  pilgrimage  to  San  Ma- 
rino a    labour  of  love   to   the  most 
eminent  antiquarian  travellers.    His  li- 
brary and  extensive  collection  of  MSS. 
are  in  the  possession  of  his  heirs  here. 
Many  of  his  works,  inedited,  are  in 
course  of  publication,  to  be  printed,  in 
a  collected  series  of  his  works,  at  the 
expense  of  the  Emperor  of  the  French. 
The  house  in  which  Melchiore  Delfico 
composed  his  Historical  Memoirs  of  the 
Republic  of  San  Marino,*  is  marked 
by  an    inscription   expressive   of  the 
author's  gratitude  for  the  hospitality  he 
experienced  there  during  his  exile. 

•  •  Memorie  Storiche  della  Repablica  di  San 
Marino/  1  vol.  8vo.    Milan,  18U4. 


Index. 


(     583     ) 


INDEX. 


*,*  In  order  to  facilitate  reference  to  the  Routes,  moat  of  them  are  repeated  twice  in  the  Index  : 
thus,  Turin  to  Milan  is  also  mentioned  under  the  head  of  *Milan  to  Turin ;  such  reversed 
Routes  are  marked  in  the  Index  with  an  asterisk. 


ABANO. 


A. 


Abako,  baths  of,  421 
Abbey  of  Novalesa,  9 

San  Michele,  10 

Chiaravalle,  242 

Abbetone,  col  dell',  468 
Abbiategrasso,  46 
Abbondio,  167' 

Academy  of  Fine  Arts  at  Bo 
logna,  492 

at  Ferrara,  481 

at  Genoa,  127 

at  Mantua,  522 

at  Parma,  449 

. at  Ravenna,  558 

at  Turin,  27 

at  Venice,  405 

Acqni,  city  of,  and  baths,  68 
Adda  river,  *i  70,  247,  25  j,  282 
Adlge  river,  282,  288,  289,  418, 

42?,  565 
Adria,  42J 
Aglie,  castle  of,  n 
Agno,  valley,  ij6 
Agogna  torrent,  }S,  $3 
Agojolo,  455 
Agordo,  426 

Agrario  Garden  at  Bologna,  505 
Alassio,  loo 
Alba,  65 
Albano,  258 
Albaro,  iji 
Albenga,  loi 

valley,  ico 

Albese,  169 

Albignola,  $} 

Albium  Intermelium,  97 

Albisola,  104 

Aleramo,  cavern  of,  66 

Alessandria,  city  of,  50    Cita* 

del,  50.  Oathedral,  churches, 

fairs,  51 

to  Arona,  $3 

to  Piacenza,  54 

— —  to  Savona,  68 
Alpignano,  stat.,  12 
Alpune  torrent,  J12,  326 


ARDA. 

Alseno,  438 

Alserio,  lake  of,  169 

Altare,  village,  71 

Altinu,  416 

Alzano,  Santuario  d',  257 

Ambrc^io,  Sant',  church  of,  190 

,  quarries  of,  311 

,  staL,  II 

Ambrosian  library,  220 
Amphitheatre  at  Milan,  i8i 

near  Nice,  89 

at  Padua,  J49 

at  Velleia,  437 

at  Verona,  289 

Ancona,  579 
Andes,  village,  253 
Andora  castle,  100 
Angera,  i$i 
Anone,  49 

lake,  169 

Antignate,  253 
Antonino,  St.,  town  of,  9 
Appio,  Monte,  98 
Aqua  Negra,  247 
Aquse  Statiele,  68 
AquileX  428 
Arboroso  stream,  53 
Arch  at  Susa,  7 

at  Milan,  180 

of  Augustus  at  Rimini, 

577    „ 
at  Verona,  290 

Architecture,  xxv 

— — ,  domestic,  in  Italy,  xxvil. 

Military,  xxvii 
Lombard,  xxvi.    Gothic, 

xxvi 
Archives  at  Bologna,  520 

at  CIvIdale,  427 

at  Mantua,  317 

at  Mcdena,  467 

at  Novara,  y) 

at  Padua,  34J 

at  Ravemia,  557 

at  Turin,  21 

at  Udlne,  427 

at  Venice,  394 

Areola,  town,  139 
Arcole,  battle  of,  326 
Arcore,  171 
Arda  river,  438 


BADIA. 

Ardo,  river,  425 

Arena  Po,  stat.,  57 

Arenzana,  105 

Argeguo,  166 

Ariano,  island,  565 

Arimiuum,  577 

Ariosto,  his  residence  and  tomb, 

4B3 

Anna,  99 

Armenian  convent  at  Venice, 
404 

Armoury  at  Turin,  19 

at  Venice,  383 

Amo  river,  539 

Arona,  stat.,  152 

Arqua,  excursion  to,  420 

Arquata,  stat,  51 

Arrosia  river,  66 

Arsenal  at  Venice,  383 

Genoa,  iii 

Art,  school  of,  at  Bologna,  491 

at  Ferrara,  472 

at  Genoa,  77 

Asoona,  156 

Asinelli  tower  at  Bologna,  524 

Asolo,  338 

Asso,  169 

Asti,  county  of,  2 

,  stat.  and  city  of,  48.  Ca- 
thedral, 48.  Churches— Pa- 
lazzo Alfieri,  49 

,  wines  of,  48 

Astigiano  territory,  49 

Augusta  Bagiennorum,  ruius, 
66 

Aulla,  457 

Auletta  torrent,  458  * 

Ansa  river,  577,  580 

Austrian  Dominions.  See  Ve- 
netian Provinces. 

Avenza,  140 

Avigliana,  stat.  and  castle  at, 
II 


B. 

Bacchiglione  river,  329,  339 
Badagnano,  437 
Badla  Tedalda,  579 


584 


INDEX. 


BAGNACAVALLO. 

Bognacavallo,  town,  541 
Bognanza  torrent,  457 
Bagnasoo,  66 
Bagnone  torrent,  457 
Baldicbieri,  stot.,  48 
Baldo,  Monte,  277 
Baptistery  at  Conio,  163 

at  Cremona,  249 

at  Genoa,  123 

— •  at  Novara,  39 

at  Padua,  345 

at  Parma,  445 

— —  at  Ravenna,  547 

at  Venice,  ^68 

at  Verona,  299 

Baracca,  la,  13$ 
Baradello  tower,  x6o,  161, 165 
Bardelone,  468 
-  Bardolino,  283 
Bardonezza  torrent,  57 
Barigazzo,  468 
Barlassina,  168 
Baml,  169 
BasagUapente,  427 
Bosella,  la,  260 
Basilica  of  La  Superga,  |o 
of  S.  Graudeozio  at  Novara, 

■•  of  S.  Haroo,  at  Venice, 

description  of,  J65 
of  S.  Petronlo  at  Bologna, 

512 
of  S.  ApolUnare  in  Glasse 

at  Ravenna,  561 
Bossano,  city  of,  jj6 
Baths  of  Abano,  42 1 

of  Acqui,  68 

of  BattagUa,  420 

of  Caldiero,  }z$ 

of  Caatro  (>iro,  540 

of  La  Porretta,  535 

of  Recoaro,  336 

of  Rlola,  570 

.  of  Trescorre,  261 

ofValdierl,6i 

BattagUa,  357,  420, 422 

.  baths  at,  420 

Battle  of  Arcole,  326 

of  Caldiero,  jib 

of  Casalecchio,  534 

of  Cassano,  25) 

of  Castel  Rflognese,  570 

of  Castiglione,  277 

of  Curtatone,  252 

of  Custozza,  88,  Jii 

-^-  of  Dego,  69 

of  Fossalto,  490 

of  Ijoano,  100 

of  Lodi,  244 

of  Lonato,  276 

of  Magenta,  42 

of  Marengo,  54 

of  S.  Martlno,  282 

of  Molegnano,  24? 

of  Mlllesimo,  7 1 

of  Mondovi,  67 

of  Montebello,  57 

of  Montenotte,  70 

of  Mortara,  46,  Si 

of  Novara,  40 


BOLOGNA. 

Battle  of  Palestro,  37 

of  Pavia,  236 

of  Ravenna,  564 

of  Solfertno,  281 

of  the  Trebbia,  58 

of  Turin,  16,  36 

of  Vinngllo,  i7 

Baveno,  151,  158 
Bayard,  anecdote  of,  263 
Beaulieu,  90 
Belgirate,  152 
Bcllaglo,  166,  169 
Bellano,  167 
-Bellinzago,  stat.,  54 
Belluno,  425 
Benacus,  lake,  279 
Bene,  66 

Beroeto,  town,  457 
Berengarlus,  Saoramentary  of, 

Bergamo,  254.  Views  from,254. 
Houses— Harlequin,  254.  Pa- 
lazzo della  Ragione  or  Nuovo 
—  Town-hall  —  Statue  of 
Tasso,  255.  Cathedral  — 
Churdies,  255,  256.  Library 
— Collections  of  paintings- 
Situation,  256.  Casteilo  — 
Neighbourhood  of,  257 

to  Brescia,  260 

* to  Leooo  and  Gomo,  170 

to  the  Lake  Iseo,  258 

• to  Milan,  25J,  283 

•Jerge^gi,  102 

Berioo,    Madonna  di   Moate, 

Berid,  hills,  327 

Bernardo,  Ck>l  di,  66 

Bertinoro,  540,  575 

Bevera  torrent,  64 

Bevilacqua,  418 

Bianze,  stat,  33 

Bioooca,la,  171 

Blella,  railway  to,  33 

Biforca,  la,  538 

Binasoo,  231 

Bisagpio  torrent,  130,  131 

Bistagno,  village,  69 

Biume,  160 

Blenso,  166 

Boara,  422 

Bogliasco,  279 

Bogliase,  132 

Bo^ca,  Monte,  312 

Bol(^na :— Lms,  489.  Situation, 
importance,  and  prosperity, 
489.  Historical  notice,  490. 
School  of  art,  491.  Accademia 
delle  Belle  Arti,  492.  Pina- 
coteca,493.  University,  497. 
Museums,  498.  Observatory, 

499.  University  library,  499. 
Botanic  and  Agrarlo  Gardens, 

500.  Hospitals,  500. 
Churches,  500:— S.  Barto- 

lommeo  di  Porta  Ravegnana, 
501 ;  S.  Bartolommeo  di  Reno, 
502 ;  S.  Benedetto,  502 ;  della 
CaritJi,  502 ;  Cathedral,  500 ; 
Sta.  Cecilia,  502;  CelcHtlni, 


BONONIA. 

503  ;  Corpus  Domini,  503 
S.  Ciistina,  $03 ;  S.  Domeuico, 
503 ;  S.  Francesco,  506 ;  S. 
Giacomo  Ma^iore,  506 ;  S. 
Giorgio,  508;  S.  Giovanni  in 
Monte,  508 ;  S.  Gregorio,  508  ; 
S.  Leonardo,  509 ;  Sta.  Lucia 
509 ;  Madonna  del  Baraccano, 
509;  Madonna  di  S.  Colom- 
bano,  509 ;  Madonna  di  Gal- 
liera,  509 ;  Sta.  Maria  Mad- 
dalena,5io;  Sta.  Maria Mag- 
giore,  510;  Sta.  Maria  della 
Vita,  510  ;  S.  Martiuo  Mag- 
giore,  511  ;  I  Mendicanti, 
510;  S.  Paolo,  511;  S.  Pe- 
tronio,  512 ;  S.  Procolo,  515  ; 
S.  Rooco,  515  ;  Santissimo 
Salvatore,  516;  Servi,  516; 
S.  Stefano,  517 ;  SS.  Trinitk, 
518 ;  SS.  Vita^e  ed  Agricola, 
518 

Piazza  of  S.  Domenico,  50;. 
Convent  of  S.  Domenico,  505. 
Piazza  Maggiore,  518.  Fon- 
tana  Pubblica,  518.  Palazzo 
Pnbblico,  519.  ■  Palazzo  del 
PodestJ^siQ.  Portico  de'Ban- 
chi,  520.  II  Registro,  520. 
Private  palaces,  520-523. 
Forode'Mercanti,524.  Torre 
Asinelli,  524.  Torre  Gari- 
senda,525.  BibliotecaComu- 
nale,  525*  Ardbiglnnassio, 
525.  Colleges,  526.  Thea- 
tres, 526.  Casino,  526.  Ac- 
cademia Filarmonica,  526. 
Liceo  Filannonioo,  526. 
Montagnuola,  526.  D^^53o. 
Climate,  530.  Dialect  530. 
Character  of  the  people,  530. 
Conveyances,  531.  Flan  for 
visiting,  531. 

.^mrotif.— Churches:  Ml- 
sericordia,  526 ;  Annunziata, 
jr27;  MadonnadlMezzaratta, 
527;  S.  Michele  in  Bosoo, 
527;  Madonna  di  S.  Luca,  528; 
Scalzi,  530.  Bagni  di  Mario, 
527.  Certosa,529.  Cemetery, 
529.  Portico  degli Scalzi,  530. 

•Bologna  to  Ferrai-a,  486,  487. 

to    Florence    by   Pietra- 

mala,  &c.,  532. 

by  La  Porretta,&c.,  5  34 

* to  Modena,  488. 

to  Ravenna  by  Imola  and 

Lugo,  541- 

by  Medicina  and  Lu- 
go, 542- 

to  Rimini,  569. 

,  by  rail,  542 

Boltiere,  284 
Bolzanetto,  stat.,  52 
Bolzano,  426 
Bomporto,  471 
Bonasola,  135 
Bondono,  470 
Bonferraro,  41 8 
Bononia  and  Felsina,  490 


INDEX. 


685 


BOOKS. 

Books   on   Italy   in   general, 

xxi. 
Bordighiera,  98 
Borghetto  on  the  Mincio,  jij 

dl  &  Spirito,  loi 

Borgo,  at  S.  Marino,  town,  580 

Cavern  at,  581 
■         Lavezzaro,  stat.,  $j 

di  San  Dalmazzo,  62 

San  Donino,  4J8 

San  Lorenzo,  518 

. di  Panicale,  5^4 

— —  Ticlno,  8tat.,  54 

Vercelli,  stat.,  48 

Borgoforte,  456, 470 
Borgone,  stat.,  9 
Borgoratto,  68 
Borniida,  and  valley  of  the, 

54.69 

Borromean  Islands,  154 

to  Milan,  158 

Bosoo,  51 

Botanic  garden  at  Bolog^na,  505 

at  Genoa,  120 

at  Milan,  220 

at  Padaa,  256 

at  Parma,  4$j 

at  Rivoli,  12 

at  Turin,  31 

at  Vercelli,  36 

Bovisio,  168 

Bozzolo,  252 

BrJi,64 

Bracco,  pass  of,  134 

Brandizzo,  32 

Braus,  col  di,  64 

Breglio,  6^ 

Brembana  valley,  i*;© 

Brembo  river,  170,  284 

Brendola,  127,417 

Breno,  277 

Brenta,  river,  n6, 357»  4^7.565 

Brentella  torrent,  3J9 

Brera  Gallery  at  Milan,  212 

Brescello,  455 

Brescia^  stat.,  261.  Plan  of, 
262.  Inns  —  Gates  —  Cap- 
ture by  the  French,  261. 
Bayard,  26;.  Siege  in  1849 
— Roman  J^mains — Antiqui- 
ties, 264.  Museo  Patrio,  265. 
Cathedrals,  266.  Churches, 
268.    Palazzo  della  Lo^a, 

272.  Broletto,  272.  Library, 
GalleriaToei  or  Museo  Civico, 

273.  Other  galleries,  274. 
Palaces,  275.  Citadel— 
Campo  Santo—  Plan  for  visit- 
ing, 276.    Conveyances,  276 

*  Brescia  to  Milan,  25  j 

* to  Bergamo,  260 

to  Pescblera.  277 

to  Verona,  railway,  277 

—  to  I^ake  of  Iseo  and  Val 

Camonica,  26r,  277 
Brianza,  la,  170 
Bribano,  425 
Bridge  of  Augustus  at  Rlmtni, 

577 
Brisighella,  5j8 


CAPBASIO. 

Brissago,  156, 

Broletto  at  Bergamo,  256 

at  Brescia,  272 

at  Como,  i6j 

at  Milan,  210 

at  Monza,  172 

Brondolo,  565 

Broni,  57 

Brouis,  mountain  of,  6j 

Brunetta  Fort,  la,  ruins  of,  8 

Buco  del  Plombo,  169 

Buffalora,  42 

Buonaparte  family,  origin  of, 

140 
Burano,  Isola  di,  414 
Burgianioo,  468 
Busalla,  stat.  and  tunnel,  51 
Busseto,  town,  438 
Bussoleno,  staU,  9 
Busto  Arsixio,  158 
Butrio,  427 
Byron,  Lord,  at  the  tomb  of 

Dante,  556.    His  residence  at 

Ravenna,  556.  OnttiePineta, 

551 

C. 

Ca,  la,  531 

Ca  de'  Coppl,  471 

Cadenabbia,  166 

Cadeo,  438 

Cadibona  pass,  69 

Cadogno,  24$ 

Caflfaggiolo,  533 

Cairo,  70 

Calcio,  25J 

C«ddiero,  stat.,  baths  of,  J25. 

Battle  at,  326 
Calepio,  castle  o^  258 
Calogne,  261 
Calolzio,  170 
Calvatone,  1$2 
Cambiano,  stat.,  48 
Camerlata,    railway   from,  to 

Milan,  162 
Camnago,  168, 172 
Camogli,  village,  132 
CamonicA,  Val  di,  259 
Campione,  280 
Campo  Formio,  427 
Candla,  46 
Cannero,  155 
Canobbio,  156 
Canonica,  d'  Adda,  284 
Canossa,  461 
Canova,  }3^ 
CantalniK),  68 
Cantu,  or  Canturio,  171 
Canzo,  169 
Caorso,  455 
Capanne,  le,  536 
Cape  of  ^e  Lame  Goat,  loi 
Capo  Corvo,  139 

di  Sta.  Croce,  100 

delle  Mele,  100,  io6 

di  Noli,  102 

dl  Vado,  102 

Verde,  99 

Caprasio,  Monte,  9 


CATHEDRAL. 

Carate,  1^2 

Caravaggio,  town,  246 

Carbonate,  230 

Carcare,  71 

Carignano,  principality  of,  2 

town,  59 

Carlo,  San  (Borromeo)^  colossal 
statue  of,  152 

Carmagnola,  stat.,  59 

Caronno,  220 

Carrara,  duchy  of,  459 

di  St.  Stefano,  421 

Carriages  for  posting,  classifi- 
cation of,  in  Piedmont^  5. 

Carsanlga,  171 

Carza  torrent,  Jji,  5?8 

Caaaglia,  pass  of,  538 

Casalbuttano,  246 

Casal  Maggiore,  454 

——  Pusterlengo,  245 

Casale,  city  of,  45.  Cathedral, 
4$.  Churches,  45.  Ancient 
edifices,  46 

Casalecchio,  534 

Casaletto  Vaprio,  246 

Casarsa,  stat.,  427 

Cascina  da'  Pecchi,  283 

Case  Brucciate,  579 

Cassana,  470 

Cassano  Albese,  169 

d'Adda,  25J 

Cassine,  68 

Cassio,  457 

Casteggio,  57,  242 

Castel  A1  fieri,  49 

Arquato,  438 

Bolognese,  570 

Ceriolo,  55 

Franco,  338,  488 

Gavone,  102 

S.  Giovanni,  57 

Guelfo,  town,  440 

di  S.  Leo,  579 

Maggiore,  487 

Nuovo,  stat.,  288 

S.  Pietro,  569 

Castellaro,  53, 418 

Castelleone,  246 

Castellucchio,  252 

Castelpo^io,  458 

Castiglione,  and  battle,  277 

dl  Olona,  2.?o 

Castro,  259 

Caro  baths,  540  > 

Catfi^o,  420 

Cathedral  of  Acqui,  69 

— -  Alba,  65 

Albenga,  loi 

Aquil^  428 

Asti,  48 

Belluno,  425 

Bergamo,  256 

——'  Bologna,  500 

Borgo  San  Donino,  439 

Brescia,  266,  267 

Casale,  45 

Cividale,  427 

Como,  i6i 

Conegliano,  426 

Conl,  61 


586 


INDEX* 


CATHEDRAL. 

Cathedral  of  Cremona,  248 
Faenza,  570 

—  Ferrara,  476 
Forll,  572 

—  FoBsano,  67 

Qenoo,  iii 

imola,  569 

Lodl,  244 

Mantua,  320 

Milan,  182 

Modena,  462 

Mondovl,  67 

Monza,  172 

Murano,  4IJ 

Nice,  86 

NoVara,  58 

Padua,  J44 

Parma,  441 

Pavia,  2J6 

Placenaa,  412 

Ravenna,  547 

Reggie.  460 

Rimini,  578 

Rovlgo,  42J 

Siirzana,  140 

Savona,  102 

Susa,  8 

Torcel  10,415 

Tortona,  56 

Treviso,  424 

Turin,  16 

Udlne,  427 

Venice,  36J 

Ventimiglia,  97 

Vercelli,  33 

\'erona,  298 

Vicenza,  jjo 

Cattolica.  la,  579 

Catullus,  villa  of,  at  Sermione, 

277 
Cava  Carbonara.  53 
Cavalcaeelle,  288 
Cavalier  Maggiore,  60 
•—  to  BrU,  Alba,  and   Ales-' 

sandria,  51,  60 
Cavallina,  Val,  261 
Gavanella  dell  Adlge,  565 

di  Po,  565 

Cavatlgozzl,  247 
Cavo  Pamfllio,  486 

Tassone,  486 

Cavour  Canal,  32 

Cavriana,  281 

Celle,  104,  568 

Cemenelum,  anct.,  89 

Geno,  river,  456 

Ceata,  river,  100 

Centallo,  stat.,  60 

Cento,  487.    Ca»a  di  Ouercino, 

487.   Chiesa  del  Rosario,  488. 

Fair,  488 

Pleve  di,  488 

Cerea,  418 

Ceresone  torrent,  339 
Ceriale,  101 
Cemobbio,  160,  166 
Cerro,  atat.,  49 
Certosa  of  Bologna,  529 

of  Garpgnano,  229 

of  Pavia,  2j» 


COLUMBUS. 

Certosa  of  Val  Peslo,  6z 

Cervara,  i?2 

Cervia,  568 

Cervo,  100^  106 

Cesano,  168 

Ceaena  :  —  Palazzo    PubbKco, 

library,  575.    Sulphur-mines 

near,  576 
Oesenatlco,  568 
Ceserano,  458 
Ceva,  marquisate  ol^  2 

,  town,  66 

Cherasco,  65 

Cherlo  torrent,  258,  260 

Chiaravalle,  abbey  of,  242 

Chiari,  251 

Chiavarl,  133 

Chieri,  47 

Chiero,  valley  of,  437 

Chiese  river,  276 

Chioggia,  417,  565.    Excorsion 

to,  416 
Chiusa,  la,  9 
Chivasso  city,  32 
Ciceroni,  xviil 
Cigllano,  33 
Clgognolo,  252 
Cimies,  89 

Cinque  Terre,  le,  ij6 
Cireglio,  468 

Ciso,  pass  of  the  Apennines,  457 
Cisano,  170 
Cividale,  427 

Classis,  ancient  town  of,  563 
Clastidium,  ancient,  57 
Claternum,  569 
Climate  of  Bologna,  530 

Genoa,  1 10 

— —  Mentone,  96 

Nice,  88 

Turin,  16 

Venice,  359 

Vlllafranca,  91 

Coccaglio,  253,  261 
Codogno,  246 
Codroipo,  town,  427 
Cogoletto,  104 
Coins  current  in  Italy,  xlx 

,  tables  of,  xxxii-xxxiv 

Col,  orPass,deir  Abbetone,468 

diCa8a«lia,5i8 

dclle  Cerese,  62 

de  Cisa,  457 

delle  Finestre,  62 

di  Glove,  52 

di  San  Bartolomeo,  67 

di  San  Vittorlo,  64 

di  Tenda,  62 

di  Villefranche,  90 

Cola,  2B3 

Colico,  167 

Collegno,  stat.,  12 

Collecchio,  496 

Collina  pass,  5;6 

Collina  di  Torino,  15 

Colognola,  326 

Colonna,  166 

Colontola,  426 

Colomo,  455 

Columbus,  birthplace  of,  104 


DERTONA. 

Comabbio  lake,  159 
Comacchio,  566 
Comerio,  159 

Como :  Inns  —  Steamboats  — 
Diligences,  160.      Situation 

—  Trade  —  Duomo,  161* 
Paintings,  162.    Monuments 

—  Baptistery  —  Broletto  — 
Churches,  163.  Palaces — 
Theatre— Port,  164 

Como  to  Lecco,  road  from,  168 

to  Milan,  167, 171 

lake,  excursions  on,  166 

Complgno  torrent,  538 

Condove,  stat.,  9 

Conegliano,  town,  426 

Coni,  60 

Cordevole,  river,  425 

Cormons,  427 

Comaro,  Caterina,  338 

Comiglia,  135 

Comicbe  road,  93 

Cornigliono,  town,  106 

Corsaglia,  68 

Corsico,  46 

Corte  Ma^ore,  438 

Corte  Olona,  57 

Cortlcella,  487 

Cortile  San.  Martino,  455 

Costiglio,  51 

Cotignola,  541 

Couriers,  xviil 

Coviglii^jo,  5J3 

Coviglia  torrent,  457 

Cozzo,  46 

Crema,  246 

Cremona,  history  of,  247.  Ca- 
thedral, 248.  Baptistery — 
Tower,  240.  Campo  Santo, 
249-  CSiurches— Palaces,  250. 
Collection  of  pictures,  250. 
San  Sigismondo,  251 

Cremona  to  Brescia,  2$i 

to  Mantua,  251 

• —  to  Milan,  24S 

to  Parma,  454 

Crescentino,  44 

Crescenzago,  283 

Crespono,  3J7 

Crespino,  5}8 

Crostolo  torrent,  455, 460 

Crown,  the  iron,  174 

Cucciago,  171 

Cunella  valley,  312 

Cuneo,  or  Coni,  60 

Cunio  castle,  ruins  of,  541 

Currency,  tables  of,  xxxii- 
xxxiv 

Curtatone,  battle  at,  252  . 

Custom-houses,  xi 

Gustoraa,  battle  of,  288,313. 

Cutigliano,  village,  468 


Dante,  tomb  of,  554 
D^,  and  battle,  69 
Deiva,  135 
Dertona,  ancient,  56 


INDEX. 


5^7 


DERVIO. 

Dervlo,  167 

Deaenzano,  town,  Btat.,  277 

to  tbe  F*romontory  of  Ser- 

xnione,  277 
Desio,  Stat.,  171 
Desaaix,  death  of,  55 
Diano  Culderina,  loo 

Oastello,  100 

Marino,  100 

valley,  100 

Dicomanu,  $^9 

Diligences,  xvi 

Dockyard  at  Villafranca,  90 

at  Qenoa,  HI,  i jO 

at  Venice,  J84 

Dog1iani,66 

Dolo,  stat<,  ^57 

Domasso,  167 

Domenioo,   San,    tomb  ot    at 

Bologna,  50) 
Domestic  architecture  in  Italy, 

xx7ii 
Domo  d'OasoIa,  150 
Dongo,  167 
Dora-Baltea,  44 
Dora-Riparia  river,  15 
Dossobuono,  stat.,  313 
Dovadola,  539 
Doverla,  river,  150 
Drap,  9? 
Duchies  of  Parma  and  Placenza, 

429 
o^'—  of  Massa   and   Carrara, 


459 


of  Modena,  459 


Dnino,  428 


£. 


Edolo,  259,  276 

Egyptian  Mnsemn  at  Turin,  24 

Ellero,  the,  67 

Elsa  river,  538 

Emilia,  Via,  437,  488,  569,  576 

Enza  torrent,  455,  460 

Erba,  169 

Erza,  258 

Esa,  9J 

Escarena  river,  64 

Este,  castle  of,  419 ;  town,  419 

- — ,  house  of,  their  patronage 

of  art,  47J 
Euganean  hills,  356,  417,  419, 

42o»  421 
Exarchs  of  Bavenna,  545 
Expenses  of  travelling,  xvii 


Faenza  :— Inns,  history,  Liceo, 
cathedral,  570.  Qiurches, 
Pinacoteca,  Palazzo  Comu- 
uale,  $71 

to  Florence,  538 

to  Ravenna,  540 

Falicon,  90 

Fano,  579 

Fariolo,  151 

Farnese,  family  of,  4JI 


FORLIMPOPOLI. 

Faventia,  site  of  (Faenza),  570 

Felizzano,  stat.,  49 

Felsina  (Bologna^^  490 

Feltre,  425 

Fei^nisson,  Mr.,  his  works  on 
Architecture,  xxvi. 

Ferrara  : — Inns,  471.  Situa- 
tion and  aspect,  47 1 .  Histo- 
rical notice,  472.  School  of 
art,  472.  Plan  of  dty,  473. 
Reformation  at,  47$ 

Churches :— Cathedral,  476; 
S. Andrea, 477;  S.Benedetto, 
477  ;  Campo  Santo,  478 }  Ca- 
puchin8,478;  Corpus  Domini, 
478 ;  S.  Cristofero,  478 ;  S. 
Domenico,  478 ;  S.  Francesco, 
479 ;  Gesu,  479 ;  S.  Giorgio, 
479;  Sta.MariadelVado,479} 
S.  Paolo,  480 ;  Theatins,  480. 
Castle,  480.  Gallery  of  Pic- 
tures, 481.  Palazzo  del  Ma- 
gistrate, 482.  Studio  Pub- 
blico,  482.  Public  Library, 
482.  Casa  di  Ariosto,  483. 
Palaces,  484.  Piazza  di  Ari- 
osto, 484.  Tasflo's  prison, 
484.  Theatre,  486.  6tadel, 
486.  Canals,  486.  Plan  for 
visiting,  486. 

Ferrara  to  BoloffOA,  by  Rail, 
486. 

by  Cento,  487 

to  Comacchio,  486 

• —  to  Mantua,  470 

• —  to  Modena,  471 

* —  to  Padua,  471 

Ferrera,  53 

Filattiera,  457 

Filigare,  532 

Finale^  471 

,  Marina,  loi 

,  Borgo,  102 

Fino,  167 

Fiorenzuola,  town,  438 

Fistona,  valley,  538 

Fiumalbo,  hamlet,  468 

Fiumicino,  the,  576 

Fivizzano,  458 

Floods  of  the  Adige,  289 

Florence,  537 

• — to  Bologna,  532, 534 

• — to  Faenza,  538 

to  Forli,  539 

Foce  di  Spezia,  135 

Fognano,  538 

Fontaua  fTedda,  438 

Fontano,  62 

Fontebuona,  53^ 

Fontenellato,  440 

Forche,  le,  539 

Fori),  historical  notice,  571. 
Circus,  public  promenade, 
cathedral,  572.  Churches, 
572.  Pinacoteca,  573.  Pa- 
lazzo del  Govemo,  citadel, 
historical  associations,  574 

♦  Forft  to  Florence,  539 
to  Ravenna,  $40 


Forlimpopoli,  575 


GENOA. 

Formigine,  467- 
Fomacci,  102 
Foniaci,  le,  284 
Fomuovo,  456 
Forte  Urbano,  488 
Forum  Allien!,  471 

Cornelii,  569 

JuUi,  427 

Liclnii,  169 

Livil,  5 •7 1 

Popilii,  575 

Fosdinovo,  458 
Fossalto,  battle  of,  490 
Fossano,  60,  67 
Fraine,  mount^  279 
Framura,  135 
Frugarolo,  stat.,  51 
Fusiguano,  541 
Futa,  la,  col  or  pass,  53J 


o. 

Gfllla  Placidia,  mausoleum  of 
at  Ravenna,  553 

Gaggiano,  46 

Gajana  stream,  542 

Gs^ano  lake,  257 

Galatea,  539 

Gallarate,  158 

Galleries,  public:  at  Bassano, 
336. 

Bologna,  493 

Brescia,  273,  274 

Cremona,  250 

Faenza,  571 

Ferrara,  481 

Forli,  57i 

Milan  (Brera),  212 

Modena,  465 

I'adua,  343 

Parma,  449 

Ravenna,  558  j 

Turin,  22 

Venice,  406 

Verona,  295 

Vicenza,  333 

Galliano,  172 

Galliera,  487 

GaUinaria,  island  of,  100 

Gamalero,  68 

Garda  lake,  279 

,  island,  279 

,  village,  283 

Garegnano,  229 

Garessio,  66 

Gargagnano,  311 

Gargnano,  280  • 

Garisenda  tower,  525 

Garlenda,  100 

Gavirate,  159 

Geminiani,  46s 

Genoa  Terminus,  106 

Genoa,  "  la  Superba,"  107. 
Inns,  52, 107.  Cafes— Consuls 
—Steamers,  107.  Diligences 
—  Vetturinl  —  Railway  — 
Post-office,  108.  English  Ch.— 
Bankers  —  Physicians  — Port 
regulations  —  Passpoits  — 


688 


INDEX. 


I 


GENOA. 

Boatmen  —  Shops  —  Sedan- 
chairs,  109.  House  -  rent  — 
Provisions  —  Climate —Har- 
bour —  Population  — Manu- 
factures —  Costume,  no. 
Streets  —Piers— Lighthouse 

—  Arseual  —  Bagne  —  Navy 

—  Porto  Franco,  in.  Cus- 
tom-house —  City  walls  — 
Gates  —  Ramparts  —  Public 
Gardens— Fortifications,  112. 
— Siege  of — Garrison — De- 
scription of  the  city  — Pa- 
laces, 115.  Collections  of 
paintings,  114.  University, 
1 19.  Cathedral,!  21.  Churches, 
m.  Buildings  —Hospitals, 
1 26.  Conservatorie  —  Thea- 
tres -Academy  of  Fine  Arts 

—  Public  Library  —  Ducal 
Palace,  127.    Land  Arsenal 

—  Exchange  —  Goldsmiths' 
Street,  128.  Bank  of  San 
Gioi^o,  129.  Promenades, 
I  JO.  Monument  to  Colum- 
bus, no.  Dockyards,  in, 
uo 

♦Genoa  to  Turin,  47 

• to  Nice,  78,  93 

to  Sarzana,  131 

— —  to  Spezia,  by  sea,  1/6 

* to  Pavia  and  Milan,  231 

Geology  of  country  about  Nice, 

87.  92.  95 
Gera  d'  Adda,  246 ;  torrent,  1 70 

Ghiara  d'  Adda,  246 

Ghisalba,  260 

Giandola,  6$ 

Godo,  540 

Goito,  281 

Golden  Legend,  104 

Gonzagas,  history  of,  315 

Gorgonzola,  284 

Gorizia,  428 

Gorlago,  258,  260 

Gorzone,  canal,  422 

Goveraolo,  470 

Gozzano,  41 

Gradlsca,  428 

Gravedona,  167 

Gravellona,  53, 151 

Grazie,  le,  252 

Greghentino,  170 

Grezzana  village,  112 

Grumello,  261,  284 

Guastalla,  456 

Gulf  of  Spezia,  136 


H. 

Handbook  of  Painting,  xxiii 

of  Architecture,  xxvi 

Hannibal,  his  passage  over  the 

Apennines,  457 
Hensius,    King,    captivity   of, 

490 
Hobbouse,  Sir  John,  on  Tasso's 

prison,  484,  485 
Hospice,  St.,  peninsula  of,  91 


JUDRIO. 


I. 


Idice,  the  (Idex),  54*.  5^9 
llasi,  valley  and  town,  32  J 
Imola,   public   establishments 

and  cathedral,  569 
Impera,  torrent,  67, 99 
Incino,  169 

Industria,  the  ancient,  44 

Inns  in  general,  xix 

Intra,  155 

Inverigo,  169,  172 

Iron  Crown  of  Lombardy,  174 

IselLa,  150 

laeo,  lake  and  town  of,  258 

to  Brescia,  258 

•to  Bergamo,  158 

Isiac  table,  25 

Island  of  Ariano,  565 

Bergeggi,  102 

Burano,  414 

Gallinaria,  100 

lildo,  416 

Malamoooo,  417 

Mazorbo,  414 

S.  Micheie,  414 

Murano,  413 

Palmaria,  138 

PelestrinA,  417 

Tinetto,  138 

Tino,  138 

Torcello,  414 

Islands,  Borromean,  158 

Isola  Bella,  154 

del  Cantone,  atat.,  51 

Madre,  155 

di  S.  Giovanni,  155 

del  Piscatori,  154 

Isonzo  river,  428 

Italian  possessions  on  the 
Mediterranean  —  political 
changes,  73.  Character  of  the 
country,  74.  Agriculture- 
Towns,  74.  Roads,  7;i.  Post- 
ing, &c.  — Money— Weights 
and  Measures,  75.  Character 
of  the  population,  76.    Inns 


-Fine  Arts,  77 
-     -  ^_p8 


ITALT  (North)— Passports  and 
Custom-houses,  x.  Routes, 
xi.  Modes  of  travelling- 
expenses,  xv.  Couriers,  xviii. 
Laquais  de  Place  and  Cice- 
roni, xviii.  Money,  xix. 
Inns  and  accommodations, 
xix.  Books  upon,  xid.  Maps 
of,  xxiv.  Objects  to  be  no- 
ticed —  Antiquities  — Archi- 
tecture, XXV.  Music,  xxviii. 
Skeleton  tours,  xxx.  Tables 
of  currency,  xxxii.  Table  of 
measures  of  distances,  xxxv 

[vrea,  marquisate  of,  2 

,  railway  to,  33 

J. 

Jean,  St.,  91, 92 
Judrio,  torrent,  427 


LIBRARIES. 

Juliet,  tomb  of,  310 
Julius  II.,  birthplace,  102 

K. 

Kugler's  Handbook  of  Paint- 
ing, xxili 


L. 

Laigueglia,  100 
Lake  of  Anone,  169 

Alserio,  169 

San  Bartolommeo,  11 

Comabbio,  159 

Como,  160 

— —  Gajano,  260 

Garda,  279 

Idro,  276 

Iseo,  258 

Madonna,  11 

—r^  Maggiore,  153*  to  Milan, 
and  steamers  on  the,  157 

Monate,  159 

Olginate,  170 

Pusiano,  169 

Spinone,  262 

Superiore,  252 

Vareae,  159 

Lambro,  river,  169,  243 
Lamone,  the,  538,  566,  57°.  57' 
Lancenigo,  stat.,  426 
Laquais  de  place,  xviii, 
Lasnigo,  169 
Latisana,  426 
Lavagna,  134 
Lavagnaro  river,  X3J 
Laveno,  town,  158.    Stat,  489 

to  Varese  and  Como,  158 

Lavino  river,  488 
Lazise,  283 
Lecoo,  170 

to  Bergamo,  170 

• to  Como,  168 

to  Milan,  170 

Legnago,  418 

Leira,  105 

Lenno,  166 

Lerici,  ij8 

Lerone,  torrent,  100 

Lessiui,  monte,  3" 

Levanto,  135 

Libraries :  at  Bergamo,  256 

at  Bologna,  499,  526^  527 

at  Brescia,  273  . 

at  Cesena,  575 

at  Ferrara,  482 

at  Genoa,  120,  127 

at  Imola,  569 

— -at San  Lazzaro,  437 

at  Mantua,  322 

at  San  Marino,  581 

at  Milan,  219.  220 

-—^  at  Modena,  467 

at  Nice,  86 

at  radua,  344.  M5.  J  56 

— ■-  at  Parma,  452 

at  Pavia,  241 


im>¥S., 


589 


LIBRARIES. 

Libraries :  at  Raveima,  557 

at  R€gglo,  461 

at  Rimini,  579 

at  Turin,  19,  26 

of  Su  Mark's  at  Venice,  371 

at  Vercelli,  J4 

at  Verona,  joo 

Liido,  island  and  forts,  416 

Lima,  river,  468 

Ijimastre,  torrent,  468 

Limentra,  the,  535,  536 

Liimito,  stat^  253 

Ltmone,  62,  280 

Llutemo,  228 

Livenza,  river,  426 

Livomo,  stat^  jj 

Loano,  loi 

Locarno,  156 

Lodi,  244 

,  battle  of,  244 

• to  Milan,  242 

to  Piacenza,  245 

Lojano,  5^2 

Lombard  league,  50 

Lombwxly : —  Passports —  Post- 
ing—Money,  141.  Weights- 
Measures  —  Territory,  143. 
Nature  of  the  coimtry— Agri- 
culture -~  Productions,  144. 
Language— Fine  arts,  148 

Lomello,  5J 

Lonato,  stat.,  and  battle  of,  277 

Longlano,  576 

Lonigo,  Stat.,  327 

liOrma,  torrent,  425 

Lovere,  258.  Description  of,  by 
Lady  M.  W.  Montagu,  258 

Lugo,  village,  311 

,  town,  541 

Luinate,  159 

Luino,  159 

Lanigjana,  province  of,  IJ9, 457 

Lura,  158 

Lura,  river,  44 

Lusignano,  100 

Luzzara,  456 


H. 

Macagno,  156 
Maddalena,  la,  stat,  60 
Mademo,  279 

Madonna  del  Bosco,  sanctuary 
of,  61 

dl  Ghlfola,  169 

della  Guardia,  99 

del  Laghetto;   sanctuary 


Mlsericordia,  sanctuary 
of,  lOJ 

del  Monte  of  Varese,  sanc- 


tuary, 159 

del  Pilone,  jo 

di  Saronno,  229 

di  Soviore,sanctuary  of,i  »6 

di  Vico,  sanctuary  of,  67 

Mugadino,  156 
Magenta,  ^2.    Battle,  42 
Maggiore,  lake,  153 
N.  Italf/.—lS66. 


MEASURES. 

Magnan,  torrent,  93 

Magnavacca,  566 

Magra,  river,  i}$,  139, 457 

Magreglio,  169 

Mijulica,  la,  166 

Malamooco  island — vllls^e  of 
—pass,  416, 417.    Canal,  565 

Maloo,  246 

Malgrate,  169 

Malghera  fort,  357 

Malnate,  160 

Malone  torrent,  J2 

Malpaga,  cagtle  oi;  260 

Manarola,  IJ5 

Manerba,  279 

Mantua,stat.andcity,  }I3.  Inns 
— ^Diligences,  j  13.  Plan  of  the 
city,  j  14.  Situation— History, 
315.  Sieges,  315, 316.  Build- 
ings: Castello  diCorte,  317. 
Palazzo  Imperiale  or  Ducal 
Palace,  317.  Plan  of  Ducal 
Palace,  318.  Cathedral,  320. 
Churches,  320.  Palaces,  321. 
Accademia  —  Scuole  Pub- 
bliche,  322.  Museo  Anti- 
quario,  322.  Ponte  di  San 
Giorgio,  322.  Piazza  Vlr- 
giliana,  322.  Palazzo  del  Tb, 
323.    Plan  for  visiting,  324. 

Mantua  to  Ferrara,  470 

* —  to  Milan,  246 

* —  to  Parma,  455 

— —  to  Padua,  418 

•—  to  Verona,  313 

Mapello,  170 

Maps  of  Italy,  xziv 

Mt^uo,  357 

Marazzlno,  260 

Marcaria,  252 

Marcello,  San,  468 

Marecchia  river,  577 

Marendole,  420 

Marengo  village,  54.  Battle  of, 

54 
Mariago,  169 

Marignano,  243 

Marinello,  467 

Marolla,  137 

Marostica,  336 

Morquisate  of  Ceva,  2 

Ivrea,  2 

Saluzzo,  2 

Susa,  2 

Marradi,  538 

Martesana,  canal  of,  284 

Martignana,  455 

Martinengo,  260 

Morzabotto,  535 

Marzana,Roman  remains  at,3i2 

Mas,  426 

Maschere,  le,  533 

Massa  Lombarda,  541 

Matarana,  135 

Mausoleum  of  Galla  Placidia, 

of  Theodoric,  560 

Mazorbo,  island,  414 
Mazzonica,  village  of,  2j;3 
Measures  of  distance,  xzxv 


MILA£f. 

Meda,  172 

Mede,  5) 

Medicina,  542 

Mela  torrent,  264 

Melegnano,  24J ;  battles,  241 

Melzo,  stat.,  253 

Menaggio,  167 

Mentone,  95 

Mergozzo,  lake,  151 

Merula,  river,  100 

Mesola,  565 

Mestre,  stat,  357,  424 

Mezzana  Corti,  57 

Mezzofantl,  Card.,  499 

Mignenzsu  457 

Milan,  city— BaQway  station 

—  Inns,  44,  175.    Vetturini 

—  Post-office  —  Public  con- 
veyances, 176.  Physicians— 
Protestant  Divine  Service — 
CaC^  Booksellers'  shops, 
&c— Population  of— Foun- 
dation of— History  of,  177. 
Roman  remains,  177.    Gates 

—  Castello,  179.  Arco  della 
Pace,  180.  Arena^  i8x.  Du- 
omo,  182. 

Churches :— S.  Alessandro. 
194.  S.  Ambrogio,  190.  S.  An- 
tonio, 194.  S.  Bernardino. 
194.  S.  Carlo  Borromeo,  194. 
S.  Celso,  195.  3.  Eufemia,  195. 
S.  Eustorgio,  195.  S.  Fedele, 
197.  S.  Giorgio  in  Palazzo, 
197.  S.  Giovanni  in  Conca, 
197.  S.  Lorenzo,  197,  S. 
Marco,  198.  S.  Maria  del 
Carmine,  199.  S,  Maria 
presso  S.  Celso,  199.  S.  Ma- 
ria delle  Grazie,  200.  S.  Maria 
della  Passione,  203.  S.  Mau- 
rizio  Maggiore,  204.  S.  Na- 
zaro,  205.  S.  Paolo,  205.  S. 
Pietro  in  Gessate,  206.  S. 
Satiro,  206.  S.  Sebastiauo, 
206.  S.  Sepolcro,  206.  S. 
Simpliciano,  206.  S.Ste£ano 
in  Brolio,  207.  S.  Tomaao  in 
terra  mala,  207.  S.Vittore 
al  Corpo,  207. 

Public  buildings  :  —  Am- 
brosian  library,  22a  Arci* 
vescovado,  210.  Botanic 
garden,  220.  Brera,  212. 
IMnacoteca,  212.  Sculpture 
gallery,  219.  Brera  library, 
219.  Coperto  de'  Figini,  226. 
Observatory,  220.  Ospedale 
Maggiore,  224.  Ospizio  Tri- 
vulzi,  225.  Palazzo  della 
Reale  Corte,  208.  Palazzo 
della  Citta,  or  Broletto,  210. 
Piazza  Borromeo,  225  ;  della 
Fontana,  225  ;  de'  Mercantl, 
211;  de'  Tribunal!,  210. 
Museo  Civico  di  Storia  Natu- 
rale,  224.    Lazzaretto,  225 

Private  buildings :  —  Pa- 
laces: Andriani,  226;  Bor- 
romeo, 226;  Tnvulzi,  226; 
2  £ 


590 


INDEX. 


MILAN. 

Litta,  226  ;  Pianca,  226 ; 
Pnntl,  226;  Melzi,  226;  Vis- 
mara,  226;  Marino,  226; 
Pozzi,  227 

Theatres :  —  Arena,  181 ; 
Scala,  227 ;  Canobiana— Car- 
cano  —  S^ — Filodrammatlco 
227 ;  La  Fiando,  228 

Public  garden,  228.  Ca- 
Binos(club-boa8es),228.  Qal- 
leriadiCristoferis,  228.  Plan 
forvisiUag,  228.  Environs, 
228 

*Milan  to  Turin,  J2,  44 

• — to  Como,  171 

* —  to  Monza,  171 

to  Varese  by  Saronuo,  229 

to  Genoa,  2ji 

— —  to  Pavia,  231 

to  Lodi  and  Piaoenza,  242 

to  Cremona  and  Mantua, 

•——  to  the  Austrian  Frontier, 
at  Peschiera,  25  j 

to  Venice,  253 

to  Bergamo,  253,  28j 

to  Brescia,  253 

Military  architecture  In  Italy, 
xxvil 

Millesimo,  battle  at,  71 

Mincio  riven  281,  282, 470 

Miousio,  150 

Mlrandola,  569 

Misano,  535 

Mizzana,  470 

Modena,  auchy  of  —  Agricul- 
ture, c(Hnmerce,  finances— 
Posting— Money,  459 

HoDBKA,  city— Cathedral,  462. 
Plan  of  the  city,  461.  Sec- 
chia  Rapita,  465.  Churches, 
465.  Palace,  465.  Gallery, 
465.    Library,  467 

— —  to  Pistoia,  467 

to  Ferrara,  471 

to  Bologna,  488 

Modigliana,  $39 

Mogliano,  stat.,  424 

Moltrasio,  166 

Mombello,  villa  at,  t68 

Monaco,  territory  of  the  prince 
of,  94.    Town,  95 

Monate,  lalce,  159 

Moncalieri,  47 

Mondovi,  67 

— ^,  battle  of,  67 

Moneglia,  135 

Monet,  xix 

< in  Piedmont,  6 

— —  in  Riviera,  75 

in  Lombardy,  141 

— —  in  Austrian  Italy,  285 

— i —  in  Parma,  4J0 

in  Modena,  459 

— —  in  la  Romagna,  470 

Money,  TcMet  of,  zxxli 

Monfalcone,  428.  Excursion 
ftom,  to  Aqulleia,  428 

Monforte,  320 

Monisterolo,  284 


MORDANO. 

Monaelice,  420,  422 

Montagnana,  419 

Montalban,  92 

Montalegro,  sanctuary,  133 

Montboron,  92 

Mont  Canferrat,  92 

^iontebello,  battles  of,  57 

,  villa^,  and  stat.  327 

Montecchio,  castles  of,  327, 
460 

MontecucuUo,  468 

Monte  Appio,  98 

Baldo,  277 

Belluno,  425 

Beni,  532 

Berico,  334 

Bolca,  312 

Calvo,  69 

Caprasio,  o 

Cardo,  536 

CarelU,  533 

Cavo,  near  Nice,  90 

— —  Chiaro,  276 

Cimone,  i68 

del  Diavoio,  312 

di  Fo,  532 

Fraine,  279 

Galdo,  339 

Generoso,  166 

Girone,  458 

Guardia,  489 

Legnone,  167 

Lungo,  457 

Moria,  437 

Motterune,  151 

Musino,  II 

Orfano,  261 

Pirchiriano,  9 

Prinzera,  457 

Rovinazzo,  437 

Senario,  convent  of,  S}S 

Streg^ne,  69 

Trebbio,  pass  of,  539 

Viso,  48,  62 

Zago,  438 

Monteforte,  312 

Monteniore,  71 

Montenotte,  pass  and  battle 
of,  70 

Monterosso,  136 

Monteu  Po,  44 

Montezzemolo,  71 

Montferrat,  duchy  of,  2 

Monti  Lessini,  excursions  on, 
310 

Monticelli,  420,  455 

Montone  river,  539,  571 

Montorfano,  169,  261 

Montorio,  325 

Montorobbio,  171 

Monza,  stat.— ci  ty,  172.  Town- 
hall— Cathedral,  172.  Relics, 
173.  Ivory  dlptychs— Iron 
Crown,  174.  Bas-reliefs,  174. 
Palace  and  gardens,  175 

*Monza  to  Como,  171 

•—  to  Lecco,  17Q 

to  Milan,  175 

Monzambano,  280 

Mordano,  541 


NIZZA. 

Mortara,  town  and  battle  of, 

46,53 
Mosaics,  xxviii 
Motta,  town,  426 
Motterone,  Monte,  view  flrom, 

151 

Mozzate,  230 

Mozzecane,  stat.,  313 

Mozzonica,  253 

Mugello,  the,  m,  538 

Mugnone,  the,  538 

Municipal  buildings  in  Lom- 
bardy, xxvii 

Murano  island,  413 

Murazzi,  the,  417,  565 

Museums :  at  Bassano,  3  36    . 

Battaglia,  421 

Bologna,  498 

Bresda,  265,  273 

Genoa,  120 

Mantua,  322 

Milan,  219,  224 

Modena.  465 

Nice,  86 

Padua,  34?.  i56 

Parma,  452 

Pavia,  240 

Ravenna,  558 

Reggio,  461 

Turin,  23,  26 

Venice,  389 

Verona,  297 

Vicenza,  33^ 

Musiano,  532 

Music,  xxviii 

Musino,  Monte,  11 

Musocco,  44 

Muzza,  canal,  244 


Nabresina,  428 

Naviglio  Grande,  41 

di  Pavia,  2ji 

Nerva,  yalley,  66 

Nervi,  131 

Nesso,  166 

Nice,  78.  Inns,  78.  Plan  of 
the  town,  79.  Boarding- 
houses— Lodgings,  81.  R^ 
tanrants  —  Gaf^  —  Confec- 
tioners —  Physicians — Apo- 
thecaries —  Buiicers,  82. 
Tradespeople — Libraries  and 
reading-rooms — Clubs,  83. 
Masters— English  church  and 
Cemetery  —  Public  convey- 
ances —  Steamers,  84.  Vet- 
turini— Hackney  coaoies,  85. 
History  of,  85.  Castle,  ruins 
of,  86.  Cathedral,  86.  Li- 
brary and  museum,  86.  Col- 
lege, 87.  Geology  of,  87. 
Climate,  88.  Environs  of,  89. 

Nice  to  Genoa,  78,  93 ;  by  sea, 
106 

——,  county  of,  2 

Nicholas  V.,  birthplace  of,  140 

Nizza  di  Monferrato,  51 


INDEX. 


691 


NOGARA. 

Nogara,  418 

Noli,  102 

Noncello  torrent,  427 

Nosedo,  San  0.  di»  church  of, 

242 
Novara,    i8.      Cathedral,    j8. 

Baptistery,  ^9.      Ghurches, 

30,  Buildings,  &c.,  40.  Battle 

of,  40 
Novara  to  Arona  by  rly.,  5J 

to  Milan,  41 

*—  to  Alessandria,  51 

to  Oozzano  and  Otta,  41- 

Novalesa  abbey,  9 
Novi,  Stat.,  town,  51 
NUra  river,  436,  477 

0. 

Obscnre,  Vall^,  90 
Observatory  at  Bologna,  499 

Milan,  220 

Padua,  J56 

Parma,  453 

Turin,  22 

Oderzo,  village,  426 

Ogebbio,  155 

Oglio  river,  246,  252,  253,  258, 

259 
Oleggio,  stat^  54 
Olegno,  Si 
Olevano,  $1 
Olgiasco,  167 
Olgiate,  160 
Olginate,  lake  of,  170 
Olmenetta,  246 
Olona  river,  44,  158, 230 
Oltro  Po  Pavese,  2 
Ombrone  di  Pistoia,  river,  468. 

Valley,  536 
Oneglia,  90 

• to  Turin.  64,  67 

Ontagnano,  420 

Oreo  river,  32 

Ormea,66 

Omavasso,  151 

Orrido  di  Tinazzo,  torrent,  259 

Osio,  284 

Osoppo,  427 

Ospedaletto,  stat.,  261 

Ospetaletto,  419 

04>izio,  Peninsula  di  Sant',  91 

Ostiglia,  470 

P. 

Padua,  stat,  3 19 

Padua,  city :— Inns-Caf^s,  579. 
Antiquities,  3  ?9.  Plan  of  the 
city,  340.  Palazzo  della  Rar 
^one,  341.  Archi%'e8,  343. 
Pinaooteca,  343.  Museum, 
34J.  Municipal  library,  344. 
Clocks,  344*  Cathedral,  344« 
Baptistery,  345.  Biblioteca 
C^itolare,  345.  Palazzo 
Vescovlle,  345.  Churches, 
345.  Prato  della  Valle,  349- 
Arena,  349.   Giotto's  Chapel, 


PA  VI  A. 

or  Santa  Maria  dell'  Arena, 
350.  University,  355*  Bo- 
tanic garden,  356.  Public 
library,  356.  Observatory, 
356.  Palaces,  356.  Thea- 
tres, 356.  Hospitals,  357. 
Plan  for  visiting,  357.  Ex- 
cursions from,  357 

Padua  to  Ferrara,  471 

to  the  Po,  422. 

to  Venice,  357 

* to  Vicenza,  339 

Paglione,  valley  and  river,  64, 
89 

PalazzQolo,  261 

Palestro,  battle  of,  37 

Palladio's  buildings,  329 

Pallanza,  155 

Pallarea,  93 

Pallavicino,  state  of,  4)8 

Palma  Nova,  fortress  of,  427 

Pahnaria,  island  of,  138 

Panaro  river,  470, 488 

Panfilio  canal,  470 

Pania,  la,  peaks  of,  537 

Pantena,  Val,  312 

Parma,  441.  History— Plan 
for  visiting,  441.  Cathe- 
dral, 441.  Plan  of  the 
dty,  442-  Baptistery,  445. 
Churches:  San  Giovanni, 446. 
Steccata,  447.  Sant'  Ales- 
sandro,  448.  San  Lodovico, 
448.  The  Aununziata,  449. 
Famese  Palace,  449.  Aca- 
demy of  Fine  Arts,  449.  Pina- 
coteca,  449.  Library,  452. 
Museum,  452.  University, 
453.  TipografiadelGovemo, 
4J3.  Theatre,  453.  Botanic 
garden,  453.  PaL  del  Giar- 
dino,  453.    Giardino  Ducale, 

454 
Parma  and  Piacenza,  duchies 

of,  429.  Government,  429. 
Nature  of  the  country— inha- 
bitants ~  trade  —  produce  — 
money,  4?o 

•Parma  t«)  Cremona,  454 

to  Mautua,  455 

— —  to  Lucca,  456 

to  Rcggio  and  Modena,  460 

to  Sarzana  and  Lucca,  456 

• —  to  Piacenza,  430 

torrent,  441,45? 

Parmesan  cheese,  production 
of,  245 

Parola,  439 

Passable,  91 

Passes  of  the  Apennines  (see 
Cols) 

Passian  Schlavonefico,  427 

Passo,  il,  566 

Passports,  x 

Pastrengo,  283 

PftuUo,  467 

Pa  VIA,  .Certosa  of,  232.  Stat., 
Castle  of,  2  ?6.  City  of — Ca- 
tliedral,  236.  Plan  of  the 
dtyt  *i7»     Churches,    238. 


PO. 

University,  240.     Colleges, 
241.    Insalubrity  of,  241. 

•Pavia  to  Milan,  231 

to  Genoa,  241 

— — ,  Naviglio  di,  231 

Pegli,  villas  at,  105 

Pelestrina,  417 

Peninsula    di    Sant'    Ospizio, 

91 

-: —  of  Sermione,  278 

Perinaldo,  98, 106 

Pesaro,  579 

Peschiera,  stat.,  282.  Austrian 
Gov.  steamers  at,  282 

to  Verona,  288 

in  Lake  of  Iseo,  258 

Pesio,  valley,  61 

Pessione,  stat.,  48 

Petiglio,  468 

PiACEMZA,  Inns,  $8,  430.  Ob- 
jects worthy  of  notice,  4J0. 
Bail  ways  and  diligences,  4;  i* 
Piazza  de' Cavalli,  431.  Ca- 
thedral, 432.  Churches,  433. 
Citadel— Castello-—  Palaces— 
—  Charitable  Institutions, 
436.  Neighbourhood  of,  476. 
Excursion  from,  to  Vellela. 
436. 

,  duchy  of,  429 

• to  Turin,  54 

to  Parma,  430 

Piadena,  252 

Plan  d'Erba,  169 

di  S.  Prlmo,  169 

Pianoro,  532 

Piantogna,  457 

Pianzano,  stat.,  426 

Piastre,  hamlet,  468 

IHave  valley,  425.  River  and 
stat.,  426 

Piedmont:  Territory— Govern- 
ment, I.  Nature  of  the 
coimtry  —  extent — popula- 
tion— manufactures,  j.  I^an- 
guage — fine  arts— literature, 
4.  Posting,  5.  Eailways— 
money — wei^ts  and  mea- 
sures, 6 

Plerls,  428 

Pietole,  253 

Pietramala,  532 

Pievc,  67 

di  Cento,  488 

Pelago,  468 

San  Stefano,  5f79 

Pineta,  the,  near  Ravenna,  563 

Pino,  46 

Pirchiriano,  Monte,  9 

Pisciatello,  the,  $76 

Pisogne,  260 

Pistoia,  $36 

Piteocio,  536 

Pizzlghettone,  247 

Po,  the,  245, 424,  470 

di  Goro,  565 

— r-  Grande,  565 

Maestre,  567 

Vecchio,  455 

—  di  Primaro,  486, 566 

2  U  2 


592 


INDEX. 


PO. 

Po  dl  YoUuxo,  470,  486,  566 
Poggio  Renatico,  487 
Pojano,  Stat.,  jjg 
Poloevera  river,  106 
Polenta,  village,  575 
Polesella  di  Bovigo,  42] 
Pollenzo,  the  ancient  Pollentia, 

64 
Pomposa,  566 
Pontassieve,  5^9 
Ponte  di  Brenta,  stat,  iSl 

della  Castellina,  540 

Curone,  56 

Decimo,  52 

di  Lago  Scuro,  424,  471 

San  Marco,  statl,  277 

di  Nava,  66 

Nura,  4?7 

Petri,  468 

San  Pletro,  170 

di  Vcaa,  ii2 

della  Venturina,  5 j6 

Pontremoli,  457 
Ponzana,  stat.,  38 
Pordenone,  town  and  stat.,  427 
Porlezza,  167 

Porretta,  la/ and  waters  of,  5J5 
Portalbera,  ferry  of,  57 
Port  of  Como,  164 
— ^of  Chioggia,4i7 

of  Genoa,  110 

of  Nice,  86 

of  Malamocco,  417 

of  Prlmaro,  566 

of  Ravenna,  560 

of  Rimini,  579 

ofSermione,  277 

of  Venice,  364 

Portico,  5i9 
Porto,  155 
Porto  Flno,  ij2 

Maurizio,  99 

— -  Secco,  417 

Venere,  ij8 

Portoguaro,  426 

Portone,  458 

Possagno,  birthplace  of  Canova, 

an 

Pozzolengo,  282 

Pra,  105 

Pracchia,    stat,   468;    Monte, 

pass  and  tunnel,  $36 
Pratolino,  5Jj 
Predore,  258 
Preganziol,  stat,  424 
Primaro,  566 
Primosello,  151 
Palictano,  538 
Punta  Bianca,  139 

delle  Chiappe,  i  j2 

del  Corvo,  IJ9 

di  S.  Vigilio,  28J 

Porga  di  Bolca,  ji2 
Pusiano  lake,  169 


Quadema  stream,  542 
stat,  569 


RAVENNA. 

Quarto   and   Quinto   villages, 

near  Genoa,  iji 
Quarto  Cagnlno,  228 
Quatrelle,  470 
Querciolaoo,  5^9 
Qutnto  village,  near  Verona, 

3" 


B. 

Racoonigi  stat.  and  palace,  6r  - 
Railways  open,  xvi,  6,  287, 470 

Susa  to  Turin,  7 

Turin  to  Genoa,  47 

Turin  to  Ivrea,  jj 

Turin  to  Biella,  3} 

Turin  to  Milan  through 
Alessandria  as  far  as  Mor- 

tara,47,  5J 
Turin  to  Milan  by  Vercelli 

and  Novara,  i  2 
Turin  to  Pinerolo,  14 
Between  Alessandria  and  the 
Lago  Maggiore   by  Mor- 
tara,  and  thence  to  No- 
vara and  Arona,  51,  5i 
Turin  audCuneo,  58 
*Genoa  to  Turin,  47 
*Genoa  to  Alessandria,  47 
Genoa  to  Voltri,  105, 108 
C!omo  to  Monza  and  Milan, 

171 
*Milan  toMonza  andComo.i  7 1 
*Mortara,  through  Alessan- 
dria and  Novi,  to  Genoa,  47 
Milan  to  Brescia  and  Veniee, 
253;  and  at  the  other  ex- 
tremity, Cocoaglio  to  Bres- 
cia, Verona,    Padua,   and 
Venice,  261,  276,  325 
Novara  to  Gozzano  andOrta, 

Milan  to  Venice,  25J 
Verona  to  Mantua,  }ij 
*Mantua  to  Verona,  ji^ 
Brescia  to  Verona,  276 
Verona  to  Vicenza,  ?25 
Vicenza  to  Padua,  ijg 
Padua  to  Venice,  J57 
Venice  to  Treviso  and  Ca- 

6ar8a,424 
Placenza  to  Parma,  4^0 
Ferrara  to  Bologna,  486 
Modena  to  Bologna,  488 
Bologna  to  Ravenna,  542 
Bologna  to  Florence,  5J4 

Rapallo,  IJ2 

Rastigniano,  5^2     - 

Ravenna : — Inns,  542.  Plan  of 
the  city,  54?.  Historical 
notice,  544.  Plan  for  visit- 
ing, 546.  Churches :— Sta. 
Agata,  548;  S.  Apollinare 
Nuovo,  548 ;  Baptistery,  547 ; 
Cathedral,  547 ;  Sta.  Croce, 
549 ;  S.  Domenico,  549 ;  S, 
Francesco,  549 ;  S.  Giovanni 
Battista,  550;  S.  Giovanni 
£vangelista,55o;  Sta.  Maria 


BOCCA. 

in  Cosmedin,  551 ;  Sta.  Maria 
in  Porto,  551 ;  S.  Nlcolo, 
551 ;  S.  Romualdo,  551 ;  Santo 
Spirito,  552 ;  S.  Vitale,  551 

Mausoleum  of  Galla  Pla- 
ddia,  55J.  Palace  of  Theo- 
doric,  554.  Tomb  of  I>Bnte, 
55^.    House  of  Lord  Byron, 

556.  Palaces,  556.    Library, 

557.  Museum,  558.  Aca- 
demy of  the  Fine  Arts,  558. 
Hospital,  559.  Theatre,  550. 
Piazze,  559.  Torre  del 
Pubblico,  559.  Gates,  559. 
Fortress,  559.    Port,  560. 

Environs : — Mausoleum  of 
Theodoric,  560.  Sta.  Maria 
in  Porto  Fuori,  560.  S.  Apol- 
linare in  Classe,  561 .  Pineta, 
56J.  Colonna  de'  Frances! 
and  battle  of  Ravenna,  564 

*Ravenna  to  Faenza,  540 

* to  FotW,  540 

* to  Venice,  565 

• to  Bologna,  541,  542 

to  Rimini,  568 

Hazotta  torrent,  5^8 

Recco,  IJ2.     Torrent  i?5 

Recoaro,  baths  of,  3)6 

Reformers  at  Ferrara,  475 

Reggio,  city,  460 

Renaissance  style,  xxvii 

Reno,  river,  468,  486,  487,  488, 
489.  5?5— valley,  5^5 

Resegone  di  Lecco,  mountain, 
169 

Retrone  torrent,  J29 

Revere,  470 

Rezzano,  4^7 

Rezzato,  stat,  277 

Rezzonico,  167 

Rho,  44,  158 

Rialto  at  Venire,  587,    Bridge, 

387 

Rigossa  river,  576 

Rimini :— Historical  notice,  577. 
Arch  of  Augustus,  577.  Ca- 
thedral, 578.  Churches,  pa- 
laces, 578.  Port,  fortress, 
library,  house  of  Francesca 
da  Rimini,  579. 

•Rimini  to  Ravenna,  568. 

• to  Bologna,  569 

Rio  Grande,  440 

Rio  Maggiore,  ij$ 

Riola  stat,  5^5 ;  mineral 
springs  at  570 

Ritorto  stream,  169 

Riva  di  Chieri,  47 

on  Lake  of  Garda,  steam- 
ers to  and  from,  282 

dl  Taggia,  99 

Rivarolo,  stat,  52 

Rlvello,  420 

Riviera  road,  9?,  ijo 

Rivoli,  in  Piedmont,  11 

,  plateau  and  battle  Of,  28  j 

Robarello,  village,  159 

RobillantA,  62 

Rocca  di  Fontenellato,  440 


INDEX. 


59.3 


ROOCA. 

Rocca  San  Casciano^  5J9 
Roccabrana,  94 
Rocda  Melone,  Monte  dl,  9 
Rochetta  di  Tanaro,  49 
Rogoredo,  243 
Romagna,1a,469^  History,  469. 

Territorial  divisiooA — Mou«y 

— Raflroada,  4*70 
Romano,  251.  2J^ 
Borneo  and  Juliet,  story  of,  jio 
Ronca,  valley  of,  J12 
Roncaglia,  455 
Ronchi,  428 
Ronoo,  Stat.,  ;i 

village,  i26 

river,  5^9,  540,  571,  575 

Rosta,  Stat.,  11 

Rotonda  Capra,  the,  of  Palladio. 

Rottofreno  stat.,  57 
Routes,  xi. 

Rovacchia  Ck)dara,  4^9 
Rovato,  261 
Roverbella,  staL,  jij 
Roveglia,  66 
Rovere,  540 
Rovigo,  city,  42?,  471 
Roya,  torrent,  6j,  98 
Rubicon,  the,  or  Uso  river,  568, 

576,  577 
Rubiera,  462 
Ruso,  542 
Russi,  540 
Ruta,  tunnel  of,  iji 


S 


Saoca,455 

Sacile,  town,  426 

Sagra  di  San  Michele,  10 

Sagrado,  428 

S&fixo  Monte  di  Yarese,  159 

Sailletto,  456 

Sala,  166 

Sale,  260 

Salet'to,  419 

Salmour,  66 

Sali»,  279,  28  J 

Salto  della  Bella  Alda,  10 

Saluggia,  stat.,  jj 

Saluzzo,  marquisate  of,  2 

Sambonifacio,  stat.,  326 

Samoggia,  488 

San  Benedetto,  i  J 5.  5)9 

San  Bernardo,  valley  of,  104 

San  Biagto,  island,  279 

San  Cassiano,  282 

Sua    Dalmazzo,     village    and 

abbey  of,  62,  6? 
San  Damiano,  stat.,  48 
San  Daniele,  427 
San  Donino,  Borgo,  4^9 
San  Fedele,  100 
San  Frutuoso,  132 
San  Germano,  stat.,  ;; 
San  Giorgio,  jii,  426, 4)6,  487 
San  Giorio,  9 
San  Giovanni  Ilarione,  ji2 


BANT*. 

San  Giovanni  Manzano,  427 
San  Giuliano,  241.    Stat.,  56 
San  Godenzo,  river  and  village, 

539 

Sanguinetto,  418 

San  Lazzaro,  4J7,  460 

San  Leo,  579 

San  Lorenzo,  99,  252 

della  Costa,  ij2 

de'  Picinardi,  252 

San  Marcello.  468 

San  Marco,  island,  387 

San  Marino,  republic  of,  580. 
Its  constitution,  580.  Ham- 
let of  Borgo,  581 .  Origin  and 
history  of  the  republic,  581 

San  Martino,  41,  57 

,  village  and  battle,  282 

—  d'  Albaro,  131 

deir  Argine,  252 

— —  di  Lantosea,  62 

,  stat.,  J25 

di  Ticino,  241 

San  Mauro,  97 

San  Michele,  monastery  of,  10. 
Village  near  Verona,  J25. 
Island,  414 

San  Nazzaro,  33,  455 

San  Nlcolo,  569 

,  stat,  57 

San  Pier  d' Arena,  52,  106 

Saa  Piero,  village,  538 

San  Pietro  in  Bagno,  576 

in  Casale,  487 

in  Cariano,  ji2 

in  Volta,  417 

Sen  Polo,  436 

San  Pons,  90 

San  Primo,erratlc  blocks  at,  169 

San  Prospero,  460 

San  Remo,  98 

San  Ruflllo,  532 

San  Salvatore  di  Lugano,  160 

San  Saverlo,  568 

San  Stefano,  99,  245 

San  Tomaso  in  Limine,  church 
of,  257 

San  Valentino,  428 

San  Vigilio  point,  28^ 

San  Vito,  426 

Sant'  Ambrogio,  311 

,  ch.  at  Milan,  190 

,  near  Verona,  3 1 1 

,  stat.,  II 

Sant'  Andr^  near  Nice,  90 

Sant'  Anna,  village,  312 

Sant^  Antonino,  stat.,  9 

Sant'  Antonio  di  Rinverso,  11 

Sant'  Arcangelo,  576 

Santa  Bianca,  471 

Santa  Eufemia*  538 

Santa  Giulletta,  stat.,  57 

Sant'  Ilario,  460 

Santa  Lncia,  near  Verona,  jij 

Santa  Marghcrita,  132 

Santa  Maria  Maddalena,  424, 47 1 

Santa  Maria  della  Stella,  sanc- 
tuary of,  311 

Sant'  Ospizio,  cape,  91 


SILK. 

Santa  Sofia,  5J9 
Santemo,  the,  541,  542,  570 
Sauthia,  stat.,  jj 
Sanzan,  425 
Saorgio,  town  of,  6j 
Sarmato,  stat.,  57 
Samico,  258 
Saronno,  229 
Sartiraua,  stat.,  5} 
Sarzana,  city,  139 

• to  Genoa,  iji 

Sarzanetta,  140 
Sasso,  village,  534 

,  il,  pass  of,  535 

dl  Castro,  mount  of,  $32 

Savena  river,  532,  569 
SavigUano,  stat.,  60 
Savignano,  576 

castle,  ruins  of,  339 

Savio,  the,  568,  575 
Savona,  city  of,  jo2 

• to  Turin,  71 

• to  Alessandria,  68 

Savoy,  dukes  of,  2 
Scaligers,  history  of,  293 

,  tombs  of  the,  293 

Scarena,  64 
Schio,  town  of,  334 
Scoltenna  river,  468 
Scrivla  river,  51 
Sculpture  hi  Italy,  Lombar- 

dy,  and  Tuscany,  xxvii 
Sdobba,  river,  428 
Secchia  Rapita,  la,  465,  490 

river,  462 

Secngnago,  245 
Sele,  the,  416 
Sella  torrent,  535 
Senlo,  the,  541,  570 
Seregno,  stat.,  172 
Seriana,  val,  260 
Seriate,  village  of,  260 
Serio  river,  246,  25J,  257,  260 
Sermide,  470 
Sermione,  278 
Serraglio,  252 
Serragliolo,  471 
Serravalle,  stat.,  51 

town,  580 

valley,  426 

Sesia  river,  37 
Sesto  Calende,  157 

to  Milan,  157 

Sesto,  stat,  175 
Sestri  di  Ponente,  105 

di  Levante,  134 

to  La  Spezia,  coast-road, 

135 

Setta,  valley  and  torrent  535 
Sette    Commune,  district    of, 

236 
Settimo,  32 
Sezze,  stat.,  68 
Shakspeare  and  Verona,  jio 
Sieve  valley,  533,  538 
Sight-seeing,  zviil 
Silaro.  the,  569 
Silk,  production  of,  in  Lom- 

barc^  148 


694 


INDEX. 


SIMPIiON. 

Simplon,  Italian  frontier  on  the, 

to  Arona,  i;o 
Sinigaglla,  579 
Siviano,  2  $8 
Soarza,  4}8 
Soave  town,  ji2,  J26 
Sularolo,  542 
Solero,  Stat.,  50 
Solferino,  281 

,  battle,  281 

Somma,  village,  i  $7 

Campagna,  Btat.,  288 

Sorbolo,  455 

Soresina,  246 

Sort,  IJ2 

Sospello,  6i 

Sotto  Marina,  town,  417 ;  island, 

417 
Spezia,  galf  of,  i)6 ;  town,  137  ; 

nelghbourh<HKi,  137 

Spigno,  69 

Spineticom,  566 

Spinetta,  la,  stat,  56 

Spinone,  lake,  260 

Spotorno,  102 

Spresiano,  stat.,  426 

Stained  glass  of  Italy,  xxviii 

Steamers  between  Nice  and 
Genoa,  84 

between  Nice  and  Mar- 
seilles, 84 

between  Gteuoa  and  Sar- 
dinia, 107 

between  Genoa  and  Leg- 
horn, &c.,  107 

between  Venice  and  Tri- 
este, j6o,  424 

• on  the  lake  Maggiore,  54, 

157 
— '—  on  the  lake  of  Como,  160, 

166 

on  the  lake  of  Iseo,  258 

on  the  lake  of  Garda,  282 

Stellata,  470 

Stradella,  57 

Stregone,  Monte,  69 

Stresa,  152 

Strevi,  stat,  68 

Strona  river,  151 

Stupinlgi  villa,  ji 

Stura  river,  64 

Sturla  torrent,  131 

Suello,  169 

Sulzano,  260 

Superga,  la,  hill  and  church,  jo 

Susa  to  Turin,  7 

,  arch  at,  7 

,  marquisate  of,  2 


T. 

Taffgia,  torrent,  99.  Village,  99. 

Valley,  106 
Tagliamento  river,  426,  427 
Ta«lio  del  Pb,  565 
Tanarelo  mountain,  66 
Tanaro  river,  49,  64— Source 

of,  66 


TURBIGO. 

Taneto,  460 

Taro  river,  and  bridge  over,  440 

Tartaglia,  escape  of,  263 

Tartaro  river,  418 

Tasso's  prison,  484 

Tavarone  torrent,  457 

Tavazzano,  244 

Tavemerio,  168 

Tavemola,  258 

Tavemelle,  stat.,  2j'7 

Tenda,  village,  and  Col  dl,  6j 

Tendola,  458 

Terdoppio,  SJ 

Terenzo,  458 

Terra  Rossa,  457 

del  Sole,  540 

Terzo,  6a 

Theodolinda,  relics  of,  177 

Theodoric,  palace  of,  at  Ra- 
venna, 554 

,  mausoleum  of,  560 

Ticino  river,  41.  Bridges  over, 
41,241 

stat.,  41 

Tidone  river,  57 

Timavo  river,  428 

Tino  and  Tinetto,  islands  of,  i  j8 

Toccia,  river,  151 

Toirano,  loi 

Torazzo,  stat.,  j? 

Toroelio  island,  414 

Tomo,  166 

Torre  torrent,  427 

Torre,  la,  261 

Torre  delle  Armi,  106 

Torre  Beretti,  stat.,  si 

Torri,  28j 

Torrigia,  166 

Torrion  Balducoo,  ;8 

Tortona,  town  and  fortress  of, 
56 

Toscolano,  279 

Tours,  skeleton,  xxx 

Tradate,  village,  230 

Travelling,  modes  of,  in  Italy, 

XV 

Trebbia  river,  57.  Three  bat- 
tles of,  58 

Trebblano,  139 

Trecate,  41 

Tremezzina,  166 

Tremosine,  280 

Tresa,  river,  155 

Trescorre,  baths  of,  261 

Treviglio,  stat.,  25; 

Treviso,  424 

Trezzo,  257 

Trieste,  428 

Trinlta,  la,  67,  9J 

Trino,  44 

Trivella,  castle  of,  65 

Troffarello,  stat.,  48,  59 

Tronzano,  stat.,  3 1 

Trophaea  Augusti  at  Turbia, 
ruins  of,  94 

Tunnel  of  Bnsalla,  52 

Tunny  fishery,  91 

TurWa,  and  ruins  at,  9J 

Turblgo,  42 


VAL. 

Turin,  battle  of,  16,  jo 

Turin,  12.  Inns— Cafes— Re- 
staurateurs, 12.  Post-office, 
Diligences,  vetturini,  &c.,  f  j. 
Railways,  physicians,  popu- 
lation, 14.  History,  14.  Cli- 
mate, 16.  Buildings— Cathe- 
dral, 16.  Santo  Sudario — 
Relics,  16.  Churches,  17. 
Protestant  church,  18.  Royal 
Palace,  1 8.  King's  Library — 
Armoury,  19.  Archives  — 
Military  Academy  —  Castle, 
21.  Observatory — Academy 
of  Science— Royal  Gallery  of 
Pictures,  22.  Museum  of 
Antiquities  — Egyptian  Col- 
lection, 2  J.  Medals  —  Mu- 
seum .of  Nat.  Hist. — Univer- 
sity and  library,  26.  Academy 
of  Fine  Arts — Piazzas,  27. 
Palaces,  28.  Theatres,  21, 
28.  Charitable  InsUtntions, 
28.  Cemetery,  30.  Environs 
—Superga,  30.  Royal  Vil- 
las, 31. 

Turin  to  Asti,  46,  47 

to  Cormayeur,  31 

to  Genoa,  47 

to  Milan,  )2,  44 

to  Nice,  58 

to  Oneglia,  64,  67 

to  Piacenza,  54 

to  Pinerolo,  14 

to  Romagnano,  31 

to  Savona,  68,  71 

• —  to  Susa,  7 

to  Val  d'Aosta,  31 


TJ. 

Udine,  town,  427 
Univerdty  of  Bologna,  497 

Genoa,  120 

Padua,  is$ 

Parma,  453 

Pavia,  240 

Turin,  26 

Urago  d'  Oglio,  251 

Urbano,  Fort,  488 

Uso  river,  the  Rubicon,  568, 576 


V. 

Vado,  101 

Vaglia,  5?3 

Vtjoni,  viaduct  of,  5?6 

Val  d'  Andona,  fossil  organic 

remains  at,  49 
Val  Camoni<»,  259 
Val  Cavallina,  261 
Val  Cimclla,  312 
Val  Madonna,  stat.,  53 
ValiPantena,  312 
Val  Pesio,  61 


INDEX. 


595 


VAL. 

Val  Pollcella,  312 

Val  Seriana,  260 

Valbura  cascade,  538 

Yaldaguo,  jjt 

Valdechiesa,  stat.,  48 

Valdieri  baths,  61 

VaLegglo,  village  and  castle  of, 

Yalenza,  atat.,  $3 

Vallassina,  168 

Yalle,  Stat.,  53 

Valley  of  Ronca,  312 

Yalli  grand!  Veronesi,  418 

di  Comacchio,  566 

Yallone  Oscuro,  il,  90 

Yanestra  torrent,  71 

Yaprio*  284 

Yara  river,  iJ5 

Yarallo  Pombia,  stat,  54 

Yarazze,  104 

Varenna,  167 

Yarese,  159.  Roads  from,  to 
the  Simplon,  Laveno,  Como, 
Porto,  and  Milan,  160.  Public 
oonveytmces  to  the  Camerlata 
Stat,  and  Como,  159.  ToLago 
Magglore,  160 

Yarese,  lake,  159 

Yarignano,  IJ7 

Yarigotti,  102 

Varrone,  torrent,  167 

YartrenuH,  anc,  569 

Velleia,  ruins  of,  417.  Otjects 
of  antiquity  found  at,  437 

Yelva  or  Bracco  pass,  1J5 

Yenetian  Provinces :  Territory, 
population,  passports,  money, 
285.  Weights  and  measures, 
posting,  286.    Railways,  287 

Yenice,  stat,  358 

Yknicb,  city,  358.  Hotels,  358. 
Passports,  Re8taurants.Cafd8, 
Gondolas,  359.  Railways, 
Steamers,  Post-office,  360. 
Shops,  Valets  de  Place,  De- 
scription and  History,  j6i. 
C!ostume,  Dialect,  Manu- 
factures, i6j.  Port,  Trade, 
Piazza  of  St  Marco,  364. 
Cathedral,  565.  Clock  Tower, 
370.  Merceria,  370.  Pro- 
curatie  Vecchie,  Procuratie 
Nuove,  37a  Palazzo  Im- 
periale,  371.  Libreria,  371. 
Zecca,  J7?.  Columns,  373. 
Lion  of  St.  Mark,  373.  Piers 
of  St.  John  of  Acre,  373. 
Campanile,  374.  Doge's  Pa- 
lace, 374.  Bridge  of  Sighs, 
383.  Arsenal  and  Dockyard, 
383.  Canal  Grande,  385. 
Palaces,  385-390.  Rial  to, 
387.  Fabbriche,  387.  Ponte 
di  Rlalto,  387.  Fondachl,  388. 
Churches,  390.  Archives,  394. 
Scuole,404.  Academy  of  Fine 
Arts,  405.  Museo  Correr, 
389.      Pinacoteca  Manfrini, 


VERONA. 

389.  Pinacoteca  Manfredini, 
411.  Theatres,  41 1.  Artesian 
wells,  412.  Plan  for  visiting 
the  city,  412.     HJccursions, 

4U 

Churches :  St  Mark  (Cathe- 
dral), 365.  SS.  Apostoli,  391 . 
La  Vergine  del  Cannelo,  391. 
S.  Ca88ano,39i.  S.  Francesco 
della  Vigna,  391.  Gesuatl, 
394.  Gesuiti,  394.  S.  Gia- 
como  di  Rialto,  394.  S. 
Giobbe,  395.  S,  Giorgio  Mag- 
gione,  395.  S.  Giorgio  de' 
Grecl,  396.  S.  Giorgio  del 
Schiavoni,  396.  S.  Giovanni 
in  Bragola,  396.  S.  Giovanni 
Crisostomo,  396.  SS.  Gio- 
vanni e  Paolo,  396.  S.  La- 
zaro,  404.  Madonna  dell' 
Orto,  399.  S.  Maria  For- 
mosa, 399.  S.  Maria  Gloriosa 
dei-  Frari,  391.  S.  Maria 
delle  Misericordia,  399.  The 
Madonna  de'  Miracoli,  400. 
S.  Maria  della  Salute,  4cx>. 
S.Moise,  400.  S.  Pantaleone, 
401.     S.  Pietro  di  Castello, 

401.  11  Redentore,  401.  S. 
Rocco,405.  S.  Salvatore,  401. 
Gli  Scalzi,  402.  S.  Sebasliano, 

402.  S.Stefano,  403.  Toleu- 
tini,  403.  S.  Trovaso,  403. 
S.  Zaccfoia,  404 

Islands  :  —  Murano,  413 ; 
S.  Michele,  414 ;  Burano  and 
Mazorbo,  414 ;  Torcello,  414 ; 
Lido,  416 ;  Pelestrina,  417  ; 
Malamocco  pass,  417.  Chlog- 

gia,  417 

Venice  to  Chioggia,  excursion, 
416 

• —  to  Padua,  Vicenza,  Verona, 
and  Brescia,  325 

to  Ravenna,  565 

— -—  to  Treviso,  424 

to  Trieste,  424 

Ventimiglia^  97 

Venzone,  427 

Vercelli,  lordship  of,  2 

city,  33.     Cathedral,  33' 

Library,  34.    Churches,  35 

• —  to  Turin,  32 

to  No  vara,  37 

Verdello,  251 

Vergatello  torrent,  $3$ 

Vergato,  535 

Vermanagna,  valley  of  the,  62 

Vemazza,  136 

Verolengo,  44 

Verona,  city  of,  288,  Inns,  cli- 
mate, divisions,  site.  288. 
Ancient  buildings .- — Amphi- 
theatre, 289.  Roman  theatre, 
290.  Porta  de'  Borsari,  290. 
Arco  de'  Leoni,  Fortifications, 
290.  Gallery  of  pictures,  295. 
Cathedral,  298.     Baptistery, 


VICO. 

299.  Biblioteca  Capitolare, 

300.  CasteV  Veochio,  297. 
Caster  San  Pietro,  297.  Cas- 
tel'  San  Felice,  298.  Museo 
Lapidario,  297.  Palazzo  del 
Consiglio,  292.  Piazza  delle 
£rbe,292.  Piazza  del  Signori, 
292.  Pmacoteca,  29$.  The- 
atres, 310.  Tombs  of  the 
Scaligers,  293.  Yescovado,or 
bishop's  palace,  300.  Neigh- 
bourhood of  Verona,  311. 

Churches  :    S.  Anastasia, 

301.  S.  Bernardino,  302. 
S.  Elena^  302.     S.  Eufemia, 

303.  S.  Fermo  Maggiore, 
J03.     S.  Giorgio  Maggiore, 

304.  S.  Giovanni  in  Valle, 

304.  S.  Maria    in  Organo, 

305.  S.  Maria  della  Scala, 
305.  SS.  Nazaro  e  Celso, 
305.  S.  Pietro  Martire,  302. 
S.  Sebastitmo,  306.  S.  Ste- 
fano,  306.  S.  Tomaso  Can- 
tuarense,  306.  S.  Zenone,  306 

Palaces:— Canossa,  Giusti, 
Miniscalchi,  Guarienti,  Maf- 
fei,  Gazzola,  &c.,  309,  310 

Tomb  of  Juliet,  Verona 
and  Shakspeare,  &c.,  3 10 

Theatres,  310.    Cemetery, 
311 
Plan  for  visiting,  311 

Verona,  environs  of,  311 

• —  to  Brescia,  276 

to  Mantna,  313 

to  Vicenza,    Padua,   and 

Yenice,  325 

Verrua,  44 

Vespolate,  stat,  53 

Vestena  Nova,  412 

Vettuone,  44 

Vetturinl,  xv 

Vezzano,  139 

ViaiEmilia,  437,  488,  569,  576. 
Roman  stations  on,  569 

Vicentine  hills,  334 

Vicenza,  stat,  327 

Vicenza,  the  ancient:  Inns, 
327,  Plan  of  the  city,  328. 
Situation—  Bridges—  Roman 
remains  —  Palladio's  build- 
ings—  Piazza  de'  Signori  — 
Basilica — Palazzo  Prefettizio 
3  29.  Cathedral  —  Churches, 
3  JO.  Palaces,  33^'  Casa  Piga- 
fetta,  332.  Teatro  Olimpico 
332.  Pinacoteca  Civica,  333. 
CoUegio  Coi-dellino,  334. 
Neighbourhood  of,  334.  Ma- 
donna di  Monte  Berico,  334* 
Rotonda  of  Palladio,  335. 
Cemetery,  33$.  Plan  for 
visiting,  335 

Vicenza  to  Padua,  339 

to  Recoaro,  336 

• —  to  Verona,  325 
I  Vlco,  village,  68 


596 


INDEX. 


VICO. 
Vloo,  sab.  of  Gomo,  164 
Vicoprc,  455 
Vigevano,  46 
Vlgarano,  470 
Vigo,  5H 
YiUafranca,  harbour,  climate, 

&c.,  90*  91.  Stat.  48, 313, 457. 

Treaty  of,  181,  jij 
Villamaggiora,  2JI 


VORAGHNB. 

VillaQOva,  Btat.,  48 
Villanuova,  100 

,  Stat.,  326 

Vlllastellone,  stat.,  59 
Vinaglio,  battle  of,  37 
Voghera,  56 
Vogogna,  151 
Voltri,  105 
Vonfi^e,  104 


ZINOLA. 


Zanelll  canal.  571 
2iappolino,  battle  of,  465 
Zenna,  156 
/inasco,  5J  ^ 

2inoIa,  102 


THE  END. 


UNIV.  OF  MICHIGAN, 

APR  18  1912 


'.■.•^'  «*^»_-»-*.' 


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IKDEX   VO   ABVZSRTISEIOSKTS. 


AmbtbSDAX — ^Brack's  Hotel    .     .  4^ 

AKTWKBf^Hdtel  da  I'Eotope      .  7 

HAtel  St  Antoine 44 

Hdtel  dn  Chwnd  lAboorefor  .     .  46 

ATHKNft— HOtd  des  Etxaugen     .  00 

BADKX-BADBr— HAtel  de  HoUsndA  48 

Vkstorift  Hotd M 

B^GiilSKEt  DB  LuoBOK  —  Gnad 

Hdtel  B(«niie-Maiaon  ....  SO 
Ba£»— HAtel  dea  Trois  Bois  .  .  M 
BKRUir-^Hdtel  Boyol  ....  22 
BUBKltK— Bdtel  de  Fnuoct^  .  .48 
Boxv>-Oold0n  Star  Hotel  ...  24 
BoBJSAUX— UOtel  de  Naatea  .  .  19 
Bboenx— Ovc^Hnmnn'iWoodScidpt.  8 
BBcasxu— Hdtel  d«  Belle  Voe  .  r>7 
Laoe  Miuinfifftory 53 

CUAMOKO— Hotel  Company    .     .    14 
Coix>ONK— Farina's  Eau  de  Cologne  9 
ConwTAX'nsovvE.-^B.6Ui  d'Angle- 
terre 60 

DiSFtv—Ozand  HAtd  Imperial  .  41 

HAtel  de»  Bains 4« 

H«telBoyal 43 

DuoN — Hdtel  du  Pare   .     ...  45 

Dbbbdbn — ^Hdtel  de  Saxe    ...  40 

DROMTHKOl.-^Hdtel  d'Angletenv.  59 

DuMKUXIIiF. — Jaoobl'sSegani.     .  34 

Plomexce— A^rliotti  &  Sons,  Artiats  10 

Angioto's  MoaakH 16 

Biaochini's  Moeaio  ....  6 
Brizzi's  UittlGal  Eatabllshment .  68 
Costa  and  Contl,  Artists  ...    12 

PUIans' Agency 16 

BoTT»f»J»*J",  Sculptor  ....    26 

FxAKKVMnv-Taochl's  CHaasWare- 
booae  ........      8 

floman  Bmperor  Hotel    ...    34 
BtflUer's  Kauulbctory  of  Stas- 
ham   .......    38, 3» 

FunsuBO — ^Hdtel  Sommer  .    .      48 


ChorKVA— Baker,  Chemist 
Hotel  Bean  itivage     . 
Hotel  de  la  Oonronna 
Hotel  de  la  Mfetropole 
lAcrolx,  Watcliraaker 


66 
S3 
63 
66 
20 


Pigs 
Qkkoa— •Hotel  de  France    .     .    ,    HO 

HdtdNadonal «0 

HsiDKLBBBO — HOtel  de  I'Enrope  .    60 
HOMBOOBG— Hotel  Victoria     .     .    63 


LA.usAinfK— Hotel  Beau  Bivage 
Hotel  Gibbon 

LucEfiH£~-Hdtel  d'Angleterre. 
Hiitiel  Sdiweizcrhuf  .  .  . 
Swan  Hot«l       .     .     .     .     . 

Lugano— Hotel  da  Fare     .     . 


QbtoiA— Hotel  des  Qoatre  Nations    36 
HOteldltalie 68 


MiBTKinaBto— -Hydropathic  Estab. 
Mayenok— Hotel  d'Angleterre  . 
METS— Hotel  de  i'Eurupe  . 
Milan — Hotel  Cavour  .    . 

Hotel  Qrande  Bretagna  . 

Hotel  St  Blaro .... 

M aninl's  BepoBit(»ry   .     . 
Mont  Cjemjb— Borgo's  Carriages 
XUKicu— 'Wimmer's  Magazine 

NaftiW    Ceralli,  Agent     .    . 


69 
40 
26 
63 
OB 
54 

40 
19 
46 
46 
36 
36 
44 
43 
7 

13 


PASiS-^Otel  des  Dens  Mondea    .  47 

KirUand  and  Co.,  Agents     .     .  34 

Pisa— Audreoni,  Sculptor  ...  6 

Pbagcb— Holtatann's  Glass  Manu- 

jkctoiy    ........  10 

RoKK— Shea,  Honse  Agent  .  .  13 
BoTXEBDAK—Kramocs,  Bookseller  26 

THim— Hotel  de  BeUevoe  ...  12 
TtrBor— Grand  HOtel  de  I'Europe     49 

Vekick— Grand  Hotel  Victoria     .    44 

Ponti.  Optician 12 

Vkvat— Hotel  Monnet  ....  64 
Vichy— Grand  HOtel  du  Paro  .  .  42 
VnoTNA — Lobme3rr's    Glass    Mauu- 

lactory. 10 

Grand  HOtel  National  ...  46 
Besch  Brothers,  Jewellers  .  .11 
Ullrich's  Glass  Warehouse   .    .    11 

WixsBADKN— Hotel  d'Angletena  .    42 

Four  Smuods  Hoitel     ....    60 

Wjujbad— Hotel  Klompp  .    .    .46 


XNGLAKD. 


Page 


Agents-.-M'Craaban       .     .     .     .  S-6 

Kirklaud .34 

-^ — OlUieyandCarr    .    .    .    16,17 
AthensBom  51 

Brown  and  Pcdson's  Patent  Flour     23 


Cary's  Telescope  .... 
ChQbb's  Locks  and  SafM  . 
Goutlnental  Express  Agency 
Couriers  and  Servants  .     . 


.  20 
.  18 
.  21 
36, 63 

Foreign  Books 83 

Gallgnaai's  Paris  GnUe     .    . 


26 

20 

7 

28 


ZUBiOH— Hotel  Bellevtie 


6^ 


Handbook  Ibr  Iiondon    .... 

Handbo(tk  for  Paris  ..... 

Heal's  Mahogany  ForTiitnre  and 

Bedsteads     ....... 

Hlnstratod  testament  and  Prayev- 
book 61 

IBBI.AND  —  AntrfaQ  Anni    Uot^, 
Auirosh      .......    56 

Letts'  Maps 29 

Looock's  Puhnonk)  Wafers  ...  19 
London  and  Westminster  B^nk    .    22 

Maynard  and  Co.,  Outfltteis  .  .  SO 
Mount's  Bay  House,  Penzance.  .  42 
Mudie's  LiUary 25 

Opera  and  Field  Glass,  Salom's    .    82 

Passport  Agency— Adams  .     .     ^  21 

Passport  Agency — Dorrell  ...  61 

Passport  Agency — Lee  and  Garter  64 

Passport  Ageney-^Letts      .     .     .  34 

Paasixirt  Agency— Stanford  .  .  22 
Plymuntb— Boyal  Hotel      .  •  ,     .20 

Popular  Works 2 

Portiuantean»-'AIlen's ....  27 

Railwats— South-Eastem.    .     .    37 
South-Westem 50 

Splenf'  Omamwnfttl  ManuflMStoxes. 
Oxford .    29 

Tennant,  Geologist 50 

Thresher's  Essentials  fqrlraTeillJng  16 
Torquay  Boyal  Hotel  ....  29 
Travels,^ 31 


May,  1867. 


APPEAL    TO     TRAVELLERS,    see  pp.  62  and  63, 

B 


2  MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER.  Maj, 


MR.    MURRAT'S 
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'  Books  that  you  may  carry  to  thd  fire,  and  hold  readily  in  your  hand,  are 
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go  on,  when  he  would  have  been  frightened  at  books  of  a  larger  size^  and  of  a 
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.^..'^.■^v^-/-vy*   "^  - 


HALL AM'S  HISTORICAL  WORKS :  containing  the  History  op  Eno- 
LASD,  Thb  Middle  Ages,  and  Litesabt  Histort.    10  vols.    Post  8?o.    6s.  eadh 

MAHON'S  HISTORY  OF  ENGLAND,  fbom  thb  Peace  op  Utbecht 

TO  THE  Peace  of  Vkrsaillks,  1713-83.    7  vols.    Post  Svo,    6s.  each. 

LIFE  OF  WILLIAM  PITT.    By  Earl  Stanhope.    Portraits.    4  vols. 

Post  Svo.    2U. 

MILMAN*S  HISTORICAL  WORKS :  containing  History  op  the  Jews, 

Chbistiakitt,  and  Latin  Christianity.    15  vols.    Post  Svo.    €f.  eacb. 

WILKINSON'S  PRIVATE  LIFE,  MANNERS,  AND  GUSTOMS  OF 

THE  ANCIKNT  EaYPflANS.    Woodcuts.    2  vols.    Post  Svo.    12*. 

MURRAY'S  *  CHOICE  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES.'  Dlustrated, 

Post  Svo.    T*.  6d.  each. 


L  Curaon's  Monasteries  of  the  Levant. 
II.  Head's  Bubbles  from  the  Brunnen. 
III.  Livlnestone's   Missionary  Travels  in 
South  Africa. 


IV.  Dufiferin's  Letters  from  Hl{^  Catitudes. 
Y.  Layard's  First  Expedition  to  Nineveh. 
VI.  Layard's  Second  Jijcpedition  to  Nineveh 
and  Babylon. 


HEBER'S  POETICAL  WORKS.    Portrait.    SmaU  Svo.    6». 
BYRON'S  POETICAL  WORKS.    Plates.    10  vols.    SmaU  Svo.    90s, 
MOORE'S  LIFE  OF  LORD  BYRON,   Plates.    6  vols.   Small  8?o.   IBs. 

CRABBE'S  LIFE  AND  POETICAL  WORKS.    Plates..  8  vols.  SmaU 

Svo.    24«. 

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MR.  SMILES'  INDUSTRIAL  BIOGRAPHIES.    Post  Svo.    6«.  each, 

I.  Self  Help.s  I     III.  James  Brindley  and  Early  Engineer!. 

IL  Iron  Workers  and  Tool  Makers.  |     IV.  George  and  Robert  Stephenson. 

DAVY'S  CONSOLATIONS  IN  TRAVEL.    Woodcuts.    SmaU  Svo.    6g. 

DAVY'S  SALMONIA;    or,  Days  of  Fly-Fibhing.    Woodcuts.      SmaU 
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BENEDICITE,   OR   SONG  OF  THE  THREE  CHILDREN.    By  Dr. 

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SOUTHKY  S  BOOK  OF  THE  CHURCH.    Post  Svo.    7s.  Sd. 
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1867.  MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  JU>V£RTISER.  8 

MESSRS.  J.  &  R.  M^CRACkEN, 

.    38,  QUEEN  STREET,  OAIWON  STEEET,  E.O., 

AGENTS,  BT  APPOINTMENT,  Tp  THE  SOTAL  ACAPEtfT,  37ATIONAL  OAtLE&T,; 
AND  OOYEBNMENT  DEPABTXEinb  OF  SGIS]»IB  AND  ART, 

OSinaua  AHB  ^OSEIGST  A0ENTS, 

WINE  MERCHANTS/ 

Assents  for  Boailer's  N^iieliat^l  Champtis^et 

AGENTS  eSNEBALLY  FOB  THE  BEOEPTXON  AND  li^HIFMENT  OF  W09^  Ol^ 

ABT,  BAGOAGB,  &0., 

ntOK  AHB  TO  MMU  WAMTB  Or  TBS  WOB&B,      v 

Avail  themselves  of  this  opportunify  to  return  their  sinoere  thohke  to  the 
Nobility  and  Gentry  for  the  patronage  hitherto  con&rred  on  them,  and  hop^  to 
be  honoured  with  a  continuance  of  their  favours.  Tbeijr  charges  are  framsMi  ^riiUi 
a  due  regard  to  economy,  and  the  same  care  and  attention  will  be  bestowed  lUi 
heretofore  upon  all  packages  passing  through  their  hands. 


J.  and  R«  M^O.  have  the  advantage  0i 

DRY  AND    SPACIOUS    WAREHOUSES* 

Where  Works  of  Art  and  all  descriptions  of  Prc^erty  can  be  kept  during  the 
Owners'  absence,  at  most  moderate  rates  of  rent. 


Parties  favotiring  J.  and  R.  M«C.  with  their  Cons^men^  are  requested  to  be 
particular  in  having  the  Bills  of  Lading  sent  to  them  di^iect  by  Post,  and  also  to 
forward  their  Keys  with  the.  Packages,  as,  although  the  contents  may  be  free  of 
Duty,  all  Packages  are  still  exaUikeo  by  the  Customs  inpaediateiy  on  anival. 
Packages  sent  by  Steamers  or  otherwise  to  Southampton  and  Liverpool  also  attended 
to;  but  all  Letters  of  Advice  and  Bills  of  Lading  to  be  addreved  to  SB,/QafiE^ 
Sti^st,  as  above. 

MESSRS.  J.  AND  R.  MCCRACKEN 

ARE  THE  APPOINTED  AGENTS  IN  ENGLAND  OF  MR.  J.  M.  FARINA, 

GeGENUBER  DEM  JULICHS  PLATZ,  COLO&NE,  •  -  ■ 

.'■-..'  .'■  '^  ''.''■■    • 

SOB  ms  . .      "         ■ s 

CELEBRATED  EAU  DlB  COLOGNE. 

Jt2 


18(^7.  MUIUUY'S  HAJSDBOOK  ADVKKTlSfiR.  5 

W^CRKCKXtrS  LIST  OF  GOSBJSSf  OKI)BHTS-Hxm^ii««l. 

INTBRLACKEN ....    Mr.  J.  Gaoamnvlr. 
I^AUSANNB  .......    Mr.  Dcbotb  Kkkou,  FUs. 

rMessra.  W.  Macbrak   &  Co.   Messrs.  Thohab  Pats  &  Soks 

I     Messrs.  Maquay  &  Pasjesuam.    Messxs.  Giaoo.  Migau  &  Fioo., 
LEGHOBN /     Sculptors  In  AlatMst^r  and  Marble.  Mr.  M.  Ristobx.  Mt.Gasu) 

I    Cabooci,  Ufflzio  delta  Strada  Ferrata.    Messrs.  Gio.  Galuaki  & 

I    Co<    Mr.  Uli89£  CcrntEMAK. 
XfEIKZIG.... •;.....    Mr. J. K. Oehlschlagkb's Saooessor. 

IiISBOK Tbe  Ageot  of  tbe  FeniUHUlar  fttid  QiieatalfiieaiDNavigatiottCompanj. 

1.UCE11NE Messrs.  F.  Kkoka  &  Fils. 

MADRAS. ...........    Messrs.  BivfT  At  Co,  , 

MALAGA Mr.  Gboror  Hdsoaoir. 

t  Mr.  Emakukl  Zammit.    Messrs.  Jcwab.  DAUEAimr  &  90X8, 46^  SteiKla 

MALTA {     Levante,  Mosidc  Workers.    Mr.  FosTuKAto  TsarA,  92,  Strada  S^ 

t     Lucia.    Mr.  L.  FsAKOALAMSA,  183,  Stfadfe  St  GibVfkimf.        ' 

MANNHEIM  .t....    Messrs. Etsabr & Claus. 

MAKIEN&AD Mr.  J.  T.  Adlks.  Glass  Manufacturer.  .. 

iwrADavrrTVQ  C  Messrs.  OtAxn>s  Glbbc  ft  Co.    Messrs.  tlosACB  Bouchet  &  Co. 

^^^"**'^*'*^  •••  V I  Mr.  Phiuobbt,  7.  Place  dtt  Theatre. 

M  ATENCE  .........    Mr.  G.  L.  KAT8ss,{:zpMttenr.    Mr.  W.  Ksi70aiAa»»  Cabinet  Mapper. 

MEN  I'ONE .........    Mr.  Palmabo,  Mr.  Jean  Obekgo  Fite. 

MESSINA..,. Messrs.  Caillieb,  Walkkb,  ft  Co. 

lirjT  A  «T  (  Messrs.  Buftet  ft  Bb&uto,  VwaauiA  ^  S.  Sepolcro,  No.  3lir6. 

-^  Messrs.  Fratelli  Bbaubilla. 

MONTREAL  J  Messrs.  Tuoupsox,  MiJftBAT,  ft  Co.]  McKO-s*  Datiis:,  Ccabke,  ft 

(_      v/JjAYTOX. 

vrrwiPTT  S  ^^*  ^^*  WnniER,  Px^taeller,  Tbeatinerstrasse,  35.    Heirs  of  Sbb. 

^ivri  tC4i -^     PiCHLRR      Messrs.  L.  Nbobiou  ft  Co. 

NAPLES Messrs.  Iqgux.dsm  ft  Cow    Messrs.  W.  J.  Tubsxb  &  Co. 

NEW  YORK  •• Messrs.  AtTsriK,  BAX.pwitr,  ft  Co. 

-^ifnp  i  Messrs.  A.  Lacroix  ft  Co.,  BriUsfa  Consolate.   Messrs.  £.  Cabloki 

"*^*' • V   &Co.    Les  Fils de Chas. Giordan.  ' 

f  Mr.  Paoxjo  Galdi BEKTi,  at  the  Red  Horse,  Dealer  In  Antiquities. 
NUREMBERG A  Mr,  JoHif  Cohrao  CNOPr,  Banker  and  Forwardtpg  Agent. 

I  Mr.  A.  PicKERT,  Dealer  in  Antiquitii^. 

08TEND Messry.  Bach  ft  Go.    Messrs.  llACK^ndCa 

PALKRMO 

PARIS Mr.  L.  Chbnub,  Packer,  Rne  Croix  Fottts  Chomps,  No.  24. 

FAU«. *•••    Mr3RBGBB0r.  >    -  ■.  , 

PISA...*...... Messrs.  Hu«0«E  ft  Vah  Lint,  Scnlptora  In  AlAbaster  and  Marble. 

voAorrip  ( Mr.  W.  Hofmakn, Glass Manufactorer, BlanemStewu   >  ,    - 

rKAUi^Ui.  ...•-».••-  "^  Mr.  A.  V.  Lbbeda,  Q\m  Maker. 
QCTEBEG. ..,.,•«...    Messrs.  Foasrra ft Pembkrtoh. 

/  Messrs.  M  At  bean  ft  Co.  Mesars,  FBEBBOBir  ft  Go.  Mes^.  MAv^uAt , 

I     Pakbnhah,  ft  UooKBB.    MessTS.  Spa1>a,  FtAHlNi,  ft  CO.   Messrs. 

DOME       \    PuowDEN,  Cholxbut,  ft  Go.  Mr.  £.  Trbbbi.   Mr.  Luioi  Bran- 

*"     *  i     CHINI.  at  the  English  CoUege.    Mr.  JT.  P.  Shea.    Messrs.  Tohbiki 

\    ft  Pkuckwavkk. 
«,^^,..,«^«Tx .  »#  i  Messrs.  Preston  ft  Co. .  Messrs.  C.  HxxMAior  ft  Co, 

ROTTERDAM iMessw.  Boutmy&Co. 

SCHAFFHAUSEN  ..    Mr.  Fbii>  Hoz.  .  .  .^  ^.     „'     ,\ 

SEV^ILLE  . Mr.  Julian  B.  Williaim*  British  Tice^nsoUte. 

SMYRNA Messrs,  Hanson  ft  Co.  ^     ^^    ^  ^       . 

ST.  PETERSilUBG .    Mcawrs  Tiio»i»ON,  Bonab,  ft  Co.    Mr.  Q.  KBuais,, 

SYVLA Mr.  Wilkinson.  British  Ccmaul. 

THOUNB *    Mr.  A.  H,  J.  W  ald,  Basaar.   Mr.  N.  Bczbebcbb. 

TRIESTE,.... Mesaw-MoowftCo.  ^ J^  •  ■        .^ 

TURIN Moaws.  J.  A^>LACttAite  ft  B-rrrbbo.  Rue  de  rArsenal,  No,  4.     - 

4  Messrs.  Freebs  Scriblin.    Mr.  Antonio  Zen.    Mr.  C.  Pokti. 
VENICE i  Messrs.  8.  ft  A.  Blomenthal  ft  Co. 

(Mr.  L.  BovaRo^,  Campo  &  Faadno,  No.  2060, rosea*  '* 

VEVBY  ...........    Mr.A.GETA2. 

«.t«J1t.  f  Mr.  H.  Ullmch,  Glasa  Mannliwjtnrer,  am  Logeck,  No.  3. 

VIENNA I  Messrs.  J.  ft  L.  Lobmbtbb.  Glass  Mannfactnrers,  940,  Kamthner 

VOLTERRA   Sig.  Orxo.  Solaihi,  [Strasse. 

WALDSHOTT^  » . . . .    Mr.  Fred.  Hoz. 

ZURICH  ...........    Messra.  WgiflS  zum  Bbacww. 


V 


«  MUKRAT'S  HANDBOOK  ADVEfiTISBB.  Majr, 


FLORENCE. 


G.    BIANCHINI, 

MANUFACTUEER  OP  TABLES  AND  LADIES*  OENAMEinrS 
.     OP  FLORENTINE  MOSAIC, 

LUNQ'  ARNO  NUOVO,  1, 

TNVITES  the  English  Nobility  and  Gentry  to  visit  hi«  Establishment,  where 
*'-  may  always  be  seen  numerous  specimens  of  this  celebrated  and  beautiful 
Manufacture,  in  every  description  of  Rare  and  Preciotis  Stones.  Orders  for  TaWes 
and  other  Ornaments  executed  to  any  Design. 

G.   BiANCHiNi's  Agents   in   England  are   Messrs.    J.   &  B.    H'Ceaceek, 
38,  Queen  Sti^eet,  Cannon  Street,  EC.,  London. 


BRIENZ  —  INTERLACKEN. 


J.  GROSSMANN, 

SCULPTOR  m  WOOD,  AND  MANUFAOfURER  OF  SWISS 
WOOD  MODELS  AND  ORNAMENTS, 


TTIS  WAREHOUSE  is  situated  between  the  Belvedere  Hotel  and  SdiweiieAof, 
-■"*"  where  he  keeps  the  largest  and  best  assortment  of  the  above  objects  to  be 
found  in  Switzerland.     He  undertakes  to  forward  tSoods  to  England  a&d  elsewhere. 

Correspondents  in  England,  Messrs.  J.  &  R.  McCRACEEN,  38,  Queen  Street, 

Cannon  ISti'eet,  E.C.,  London. 


PISA, 


GIUSEPPE  ANDREONI, 
Sculptor  in  Alabaster  and  Objects  of  Fine  Art, 

NO.    672,    VIA     SANTA    MARIA, 


WHEBB 


A  GREAT  ASSORTMENT  OF  FINE  ARTS,  SCULPTURE,  &c. 

CAN  BE  SEEN. 


1867. 


UUERAT'S  HANDBOOK  ADYJSRTISSB. 


ANTWERP. 


»•*■ 


HOTEL  DE  lEVROPE, 

JVeart  to  fhe  Post  Office, 
Thb  Moor  Aqsksasle  Situaiiov  is 

THB  TOWK. 

Fomerly  Hotel  du  Face. 

Toss  Hotel  has  been  rebuilt,  a  magnUlceDt 

Salle  ft  maoger  added,  as  well  as  many  Bed 

and  Sitting  Rooms,  entirely  new  furnished 

and  redecorated;  and  the  present  Proprietor 

spares  no  exertion  to  render  It  one  of  the 

most  popular  hotels  on  the  Continent. 

Excellent  Table  d'Hdte. 

Hot  and  Cold  Baths. 

Stabling  and  Goach-Honse. 

English  and  French  Newspapers. 


PariB  Xadiibitioxi,  U67. 


WUK  Map  and  Platif,  lemo,  3f.  6(2. 

MURRAY'S 
HAITDBOOE  FOE  PARIS 

AND  ITS  ENVIRONS. 

V  Also,  MtrBBATS  SAKBBOOK 
FLAir  OF  FASIS, 

Moimtied  on  canvas,  in  a  case.    Price  3g.  6d, 


JOHN  MURRAY.  Albbkaslb  Stbbet. 


MUNICH. 


HENRY  WIMMER'S 

GALLERY   OF   FINE   ARTS. 

PROPBIETOR, 

AUGUST   HUMPLMAYR, 

35,  THEATINEB  STREET, 

Invites  the  Nobility  aud  Gentry  to  visit  his  Galleby  of  fXSE  Arxs,  containing 

an  Extensive  Collection  of 

MODERN      PAINTINQS 

by  the  hest  Munich  Arti8t9> 
PAINTINOS     ON     PORCBtiAIHr     AN1»     OIV    CMiASS^ 

all  sorts  of 
PHOTOaRAPHS,   ENGBAYINaS,   UTHOGEAI^HS,  ETO.» 

indading  the  complete  OoUeotions  of  the  various  Galleries. 


CiAifespondents  and  Agente  in  England,  Meesrs.  J.  &  R*  WCBACSMIf,  88,  Queen 
Street,  Cannon  Street,  E.C.,  London. 


8  MUUIUY'S  IIANDUOOK  ADVEimSEK,  Mar, 


FRANKFORT. 


P.  A.  TACCHrS  SUCCESSOR, 

ZKIK,  So.  44, 

IBOMSMHAM  MHCT  (GMES  AWB  (ClYSTAL 

WAlEHOinglS, 


■<  %r'^^\f^^\r  -y-K^u  \/  .i\/t.r\.' 


P.  A.  TACCHI'S  SUCCESSOR,  Manufacturer  of  Bohemian 
Glass,  begs  to  acquaint  the  Public  that  he  has  always  an  extensive 
Assortment  in  the  Newest  and  most  Elegant  Designs  of 

OBNAMENTAX.  OUT,  ENGRAVED,  GILT,  A  PAINTED  GLASS, 

BOTH  WHITE  AND  COLOURED, 

In  Dessert  Services,  Chandeliers,  Candelabras,  Articles  for  the  Table 
and  Toilet,  and  every  possible  variety  of  objects  in  this  beautiful 
branch  of  manufacture.  He  solicits,  and  will  endeavour  to  merit,  a 
continuance  of  the  favours  of  the  Public,  which  he  has  enjoyed  in 
so  high  a  degree  during  a  considerable  number  of  years, 

P.  A.  TACcni's  Successor  has  a  Branch  Establishmbnt  during  the 
Summer  Seasou  at 

WIESBADEN,  in  the  Old  CdhomiaaB, 

Where  will  always  be  found  an  extensive  Selection  of  the  newest 
Articles  from  his  Frankfort  Establishment. 

Visitors  to  Frankfort  should  not  fail  to  pay  a  visit  to  the  Show 
Rooms  of  Mr.  P.  A.  Tacchi's  Successor. 


His  Agents  in  England,  to  whom  he  undertakes  to  forward  Pur- 
chases made  of  him,  are  Messrs.  J.  &  B.  M*Cbacken,  38,  Queen 
Street,  Cannon  Street,  E.C.,  London. 


I8«7.  UURRArS  UANDUOOK  ADVBKTISEB.  9 


COLOGNE    ON    THE    RHINE. 


JOHAM  MARIA  FARINA, 
GEGENtJBER  DEM  JULICffS  PLATZ 

(Opposite  tbe  JtUlc^'t  Flaee), 

PURVEYOR    TO    H.    M.    gUEEN    VICTORIA; 

TO  H.  R.  H.  THE  PRINCE  OF  WALES; 

TO  H.  M.  THE  KDXQ  OP  PRUSSIA;  THE  EMPEROR  OF  RUSSIA; 

THE  KING  OF  HANOVER,  ETC.  ETC., 

or  TSB 

ONLY  OENUINE  EAU  BE  COLOaNE. 


THE  frequency  of  mistiikes^  which  are  sometimeB  accidental,  but  for  the  most 
part  the  reeolt  of  deception  practised  by  intereeted  indivkhialfl,  indncea  me  to  re<{aest 
the  attention  of  Englich  travellers  to  the  followiug  statement : — 

The  favonrable  reputation  which  my  Ean  de  Cologne  has  acquired,  since  its  invention  by 
my  ancestor  in  the  year  1709,  has  induced  many  people  to  Imitate  it;  and  in  order  to  be  able 
to  sell  tiieir  spurious  article  more  easily,  and  under  pretext  that  it  was  genuine,  they  pro- 
cured themselves  a  firm  of  F(arina»  by  entering  into  partnen^p  with  persons  of  mj  names 
which  Is  a  very  common  one  in  Italy. 

Persona  who  wish  to  purchase  the  gmuint  and  original  Eau  de  CologM  ought  to  be  perti- 
cnlar  to  see  that  the  labels  and  the  bottles  have  not  only  my  name,  Joharm  Maria  ilortna, 
but  also  the  additional  words,  gegeniiber  dem  JULich't  PUxU  (that  is,  opposite  the  JUlich's 
Place),  without  addition  of  any  number. 

Travellers  visiting  Cologne,  and  intending  to  buy  my  genuine  article,  axe  cautioned  against 
being  led  astray  by  oabmen,  guides,  commissioners,  and  other  parties,  who  offer  their  services 
to  them.  I  therefore  beg  to  state  that  my  maoufactiu«  and  shop  are  in  the  same  house, 
situated  oppotiU  the  Julich's  Place,  and  nowhere  else.  It  happens  too.  frequently,  that  the 
said  persons  conduct  the  uninstructed  strangers  to  shops  of  one  of  tlie  fictitious  firms,  where, 
notwithstanding  assertion  to  the  contrary,  they  are  remunerated  with  nearly  the  half  part  of 
the  price  paid  by  the  purcliaser,  who,  of  course,  must  pay.  indirectly  this  remuneration  by  a 
high  price  and  a  bad  article. 

Another  kind  of  imposition  Is  practised  in  almost  every  hotel  in  Cologne,  where  waiters, 
commissioneRib  Jrc,  qfiTer  to  sirangens  ii)au  de  Cologne,  pretending  that  it  is  Uie  genuine  one, 
and  that  I  delivered  it  to  them  for  the  purpose  of  selling  it  for  my  account 

The  only  certain  way  to  get  In  Col(^e  my  genuine  article  is  to  buy  it  personally  at  my 
house,  of^pofite  the  JUlich's  I'lacet  forming  the  comer  of  the  two  streets,  Unter  Goldschmidt 
and  Oben  Marspforten,  No.  23,  and  having  tn  the  front  six  balconiest  of  which  the  three 
higher  ones  bear  my  name,  Johamn  Maria  J<'a7-ina. 

The  excellence  of  my  manufacture  has  been  put  be^^ond  aU  doubt  by  the  fact  that  the 
Jurors  of  the  Great  Exhibitions  in  London,  I85I  and  1862,  have  awarded  to  me  the  iMze 
Medal,  and  that  I  obtained  honourable  mention  at  the  Great  Exhibition  in  Paris,  1856. 

OoixwHB,  January,  1863.  JOHANN  MARIA  FARINA, 

GEGENtfBER  DEM  JULICH'S  PLATZ. 

•♦*  Jfy  Agency  fn  Lt)ii(hn  w  at  Messrs.  J.  &  R. 'M'CftACKBN,  38,   Queai 

Street,  Camion  Street,  E,C. 


10  MURiUrS  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER.  May, 


PRAGUE. 

WILLIAM  HOFMANN, 

BOHEMIAN    GLASS    MANUT AOTURER, 

TO  HU  MAJESTT  THS  KHFEBOB  OF  AUSTBIA, 

HOTEL  BLUE  STAR, 

Reoommends  his  great  assortment  of  Glass  Ware,  from  his  own  Mantiiactories  in 
Bohemia.  The  choicest  Articles  in  every  Colour,  Shape,  and  Description,  are  soH^ 
at  the  same  moderate  prices,  at  his  Establishments. 

Agents  in  London,  Messrs.  J.  and  B.  M*CHACK£N,  38,  Queen  Street,  Cannon 
Street,  E.C.       Qoods  forwarded  direct  to  England^  America,  ^c 

FLORENCE. 


JOHN  AGLIETTI  AND  SONS, 

ARTISTS, 

GROUND  FLOOR,  No.  15,  VIA  MAGGIO, 

Have  a  large  Collection  of  Ancient  and  Modem  Original  Paintings,  and  also  Copies 
fi-om  the  most  celebrated  Mastei-s. 

Copies,  Carved  Fmmes,  Gilt  or  Plain,  made  to  order,  and  forwarded  with 
despatch  to  all  parts  of  the  world. 

Correspondents  in  England,  Messi-s.  J.  and  R.  M'CRACKEN,  of  No.  38,  Queen 
Sti-eet,  Cannon  Street,  E.C,  London. 

VIENNA. 


BohemUin  ^i^hlte  and  Col^nrea  Crystal  Glass  Warehoase* 

J.  &  L-   LOBMEYR, 

ail  ASS     H  AB^nlP  ACTtTBBBS, 

No.  13,  KARNTHNEBSTRASSE. 

The  most  comple(«  assortment  of  all  kinds  of  Bohemian  White  and  Cc^oored 
Crystal  Glass,  and  of  all  articles  in  this  branch  of  industry,  in  the  newest  and 
most  elegant  style,  is  always  on  hand.  The  rich  collections  of  all  Articles  of 
Liuury,  viz.  Table,  Dessert,  and  other  Services,  Vases,  Candelabras,  Lustres, 
Looking-glasses,  &c.  &c.,  will,  they  feel  assured,  satisfy  every  visitor.  They 
obtained  the  Prize  Medal  at  the  International  Exhibition  of  1862. 

The  prices  are  fixed  at  very  moderate  and  reasonable  charges. — The  English 
language  is  spoken. 

Their  Correspondents  in  England,  Messrs.  J.  and  R.  M'CRACKEir,  No.  38, 
Queen  Street,  Cannon  Street,  E.G.,  London,  will  execute  all  orders  with  the 
greatest  care  and  attention. 


1867.  MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER.  11 

VIENNA. 


HEINRICH  tLLRICH, 

LATE  WILLIAH  HOFMANK, 

GLASS    AND    BRONZE    MANUFACTURER, 

No.  3,  LUGECK. 

Recommends  his  great  assortment  of  Glass  and  !&onze  Ware  in  the  oholoest  articles,  in 
erery  coloor,  ebxpet  and  description/ spedally  adapted  to  the  GngUsh  a&d  Amerioati  taste, 
il^om  Ids  own  mannfactories  in  Bohemia  and  Vienna  (for  the  Bronae). 

The  prices  are  fixed  at  very  moderate  and  reasonable  charges. 

He  received  at  the  last  London  fixliibitlon  the  Prize  Medal  for  excellent  execatlon  and 
veiy  cheap  prices. 

HEmaiCH  ULLRICH  has  a  Branch  Establishment  dnring  the  Sommer  Season  at 

BAD  EN-BAD  en/ 

NEW  PKOMENADB,  418. 

wher«  #111  atwaj#  h^  font4  an  extm^ve  selection  of  tte  newest  articles  ]froBi  his  Vienna 
warehouse. 
The  English  langnage  is  spolcen,  and  ev^y  information  given  with  pleasnre  to  travellers. 
He  sells  only  real  Bobemiail  CUMI*  and  not  Hon^pEffian  Glass,  which  In  many 
tilaoeft  is  iEK)ld  hi  snbgtltatton.    '     r.      ■ 

Agents  in  Paris  and  New  YorlL. 
Afents  in  London,  Uerars.  J.  and  E.  M^RAGEEN,  38,  Qaeen  Street^  Cannon  Street,  EX!. 


VI  ENNA. 


EESCH  BEOTHEES, 


JEWELLERS, 


8,  KOHLMARKT,   CORNER  OF  WALLNER  STREET, 


Beg  to  recommend  tiieir  Establishment  of 


OWN  MANUFACTURED 
JEWB^LEBY  AND  FAKCT  QOI^D  ABTICLSa 


12  UUKBAY'S  HANDBOOK  AUVEKTISEK.  Mar, 


FLOBE170B. 

MESSRS.  COSTA  &  CONTI, 

ARTISTS, 
Ko.  1818,  VIA  PEI  BAKDX  (Studio  on  the  First  Sloor). 

Messrs.  Costa  and  Conti  keep  the  largest  collection  in  Florence  of  original 
Ancient  and  Modem  Pictures,  as  well  as  Copies  of  all  the  most  celebrated  Masters. 
N.B. — English  spoken. 

Correspondents  in  England,  Messrs.  J.  and  R.  M'CR^CKEN,  38,  Queen  Street, 
Cannon  btieet,  E.C.,  London. 

TH  U K  (SWITZERUNP). 


■^t 


HOTEL   BE    BELLEVUE. 

THIS  old  and  celebrated  Establishment  is  situated  in 
the  midst  of  a  magnificent  Park,  sun-ounded  by  most  picturesque  glaciei"S 
and  mountains,  at  the  foot  of  which  extends  the  beautiful  lake  of  Thonne, 
The  Park  contains  the  English  Chapel,  as  well  as  Reading  and  Billiai'd  Kooms,  and 
several  Chalets.  Families  who  desire  to  miike  a  lengthened  stay  at  Bellevue  will 
find  there  every  comfort  belonc^injj  to  a  first-class  establishment.  The  Steamer 
which  runt  teiween  Thiin  and  is'ewhaus  (Interlakeu)  embarks  and  disembarks  its 
pussengers  m  front  of  the  Hotel. 

J.  W.  KKEGHTENHOFBB. 


VENICE. 

CARLO   PONTI, 

OPTICIAN    AND    PHOTOGBAPHER, 

Who  gained  the  Prize  Medal  at  the  Intel-national  Exhibition  of  1862,  and  whose 
House  is  acknowledged  to  be  the  fii-st  of  its  kind  in  the  City,  has  opened  a  new 
and  large  Establishment  in  Piazza  di  San  Marco,  Procuratie  Nnove,  in  addition  to 
that  wiiich  he  keeps  in  the  liiva  dei  Schiavoni,  No.  4180,  near  the  Albei*go  Beale 
Daneli. 
The  Optical  Instiument  invented  by  him,  and  known  under  the  name  of  the 

ALET06C0FE,  or  MEGALETOSGOPE, 

has  undergone  such  iinprovements  as  to  render  it  (according  to  the  judgment  of 
intelligent  persons)  the  most  perfect  thing  of  its  kind,  both  for  its  simple  con- 
struction and  magnificent  optical  effects. 

Correspondents  in  London,  Messrs.  J.  and  R.  M*CRACKEN,  38,  Queen  Sti'ect, 
Cannon  Street,  E.C.  .  a 


18^7.  JlURRArs  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER.  13 

ROME. 

J.    PrSHEA, 

ENGLISH    HOUSE-AGENT, 

JOBWAKDING  AGENT 
TO  H.B.H.  THE  PBINOE   OP    WALES. 

11,  PIAZZA  DI  SFAGNA. 

At  this  06Sce  persons  appljing  ftr . 

Large  or  Sinall  Fumished  Apariments 

inrariftbly  obtain  correct  and  unbiassed  infoimation  on  all  matters  connected  with 

liOdgiug-Houses^  Boarding-Hooses^ 

and 

Hooselibld  Majiagemeixt^ 

while 

Low  and  Fixed  Cluu^es 

for  practical  services  offer  safe  and  satisfactory  assistance  to  Proprietor  and  Tenant, 

as  testified  by  the  increasing  confidence  of  English  and  American  Tiavellei's 

^ce  the  opening  of  the  establishment  in  1852. 

Plans  and  Lists  of  Apartments  sent  by  Post 

to  persons  who  wish  to  secure  accoramodntion,  or  avoid  inconvenience  at  the 
appFoadi  of  Carnival  or  the  Holy  Week. 

AS  CUSTOMHOUSE  AOENT, 

Mtt.  Shea  clears  and  warehouses 

Baggage  and  other  effects 

for  travellei's  who,  to  avoid  the  expense  of  quick  transit,  send  their  things  by  sea  or 

luggago-tmin,  directed  to  his  care. 

He  also  superintends  the 

Packing  of  Works  of  Art  and  other  Property 

intrusted  to  his  eare,  and  the  forwarding  of  the  same  to  England,  &c. ;  and  being 

Agent  for  Messi-s.  Bums  and  McIveiV  Italian  line  of  steamers,  can  offer 

facilities  on  the  freight  of  packages  between  Italy  and  England. 


■  1  ■ 


CORRESPONDENTS- 

LONDON^ Messrs.  J.  k  R.  JfCRACKKK.  38,  Queen  Street,  Cannon  Street,  E.C. 

Messrs.  OLIVIER  &  CARR,  37,  Finsbury  Square. 
LIVERPOOL Messrs.  STAVKLEY  &  STARR.  9,  Cliapel  Street 

Messrs.  JAS.  MOSS  &  CO.,  78,  Tower  Buildings. 

FOLKESTONE Mr,  FAULKNER. 

B0aiX)ONE  S.M Mr.  BERNARD,  18,  Qua!  des  Paquebots. 

PARIS Messrs.  LHKRBETTE,  KANK,  &  00^8.  Place  de  la  Bourse. 

MARSEILLES  .^...^..Messrs.  GIRAUD  FUERES.  44,  Rue  Soi&te. 

FLORENCE    Messrs.  HASKAUD  &  SON. 

NEW  YORK Messrs.  AUSTIN,  BAI^DWIN,  &  CO.,  Y3,  Broadway. 

BOSTON...........  .•«« Messrs.  WELLS,  FARGO,  &  CO. 


U  MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER.  May, 


-^r 


CHAMONIX. 


eRAND  HOTEL  IMPERIAL 

HOTEL  raGLETERRE. 

HOTEL  BE  LA  COPROiyilfE. 

HOTEL  BE  LOSDRES. 

The  above  Hotels  are  now  the  property  of  a 

JOINT-STOCK    COMPANY, 

WITH    A    SUPERINTENDING    COMMITTEE    OF    MANAGERS. 

The  new  Proprietors  of  these 

MAGNIFICENT  ESTABLISHSIENTS, 

the 

LARGEST  AND  MOST  IMPOETANT  AT  CHAMONIX, 

hare  spared  no  expense  in  fitting  them  up  with  every  conofort  modem  expenence 

could  suggest,  as  well  as  supplying  an 

EXCELLENT    CUISINE, 

under  control  of  a 

FIBST-EATE    PAEISIAN    COOK, 

and  in  forming  a 

CELLAR  OF  WINES  OP  THE  FINEST  QUALITY. 


The  Apartments  have  been  refui-nished,  and  the  Service  is  organised  on  the  model 
of  the  fii*st  Hotels  in  Switzerland,  and  is  placed  under  the 

direction  of  a 

MAITBB  D'HOTEL 

of  proved  experience,  and  fully  equal  to  the  onerous  duties  of  his  position. 


PRIVATE  SITTING  ROOMS,   BATHS,  AND 

READING  ROOMS 

B applied  with  the  leading  Journals  of  Europe  and  America,  and  arrangements  to 

satisfy  every  taste. 

800  Booms,  raxL|p2ig  from  d  fnnw  a  ted  and  upwards 


1867. 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


15 


VISITORS     TO     NAPLES. 


OSKEBAI AOEKCT  &  0OKMIS8IOV  07FICE  at  tlie  BBITI8H  LXBEABT, 

DIKECTSO  BT 

M.  CERULLI, 

Palazzo  Friozzi,  No.  267,  Riviera  di  Chlaja. 

WORKS  OF  ART,  B0008,  AND  LUBBAGE 

forwarded  to  and  received  ttam  all  parts  of  the  world*  And  warebonsed  at  moderate  charges 

of  rent. 

BAirX  BUXS,  CIKCfUJLAB  H0TE8,   AHB  LEITZBS  07  OSSBIT 

cashed  free  of  commlssioo. 

OQjntTMw  wma  or  svsbt  obsoilzvtxpw, 

both  in  Bottle  and  in  Cask,  for  exportation,  at  reduced  prices. 

FOREIGN  WINES,  ENGLISH  BEERS,  TEAS,  ^c„  IMPORTED, 

Agency  Busbieas  of  every  description  attended  to ;  also  the  PURCHASE  of  LANDS, 
HOUSES,  or  VILLAS  for  the  account  of  Foreigners. 

CoROfponctoiita  ixi  Iioxtdon— Keasn.  OIiIVSSB  ft  CABB,  87,  Tmsbury  Sqpure. 
,,  „  Faris-Hessn.  JOHN  AUTHUB  &  CO.,  10,  Bne  Castigiione. 
„        „        KarBeilles— ICesert.  OIBAXTl)  Fr^res,  42,  Bue  Sainte. 


FLORENCE. 

12,   LUNG'  ARNO  NUOVO ;  and  21,   BORGO   0GNI8ANTI. 


AN6I0L0  &  BROTHERS  MONTEUTICI, 


COMMISSIONS    AND     EXPORTATION. 


FLORENCE. 


MESSRS.  PILLANS  &  RITCHIE 

Beg  to  announce  that  they  have  commenced 
business  in  this  capital  as 

GENERAL   AGENTS 

▲KD 


ESSENTIALS 

FOB 

TEAVELLINQ-. 

Threaher'g  India  Tweed  8iiits. 
Thresher's  Kashmir  Flannel  Shirts. 
Thresher's  Kashmir  Woollen  8oek8. 
Thresher's  Coloured  Flannel  8hirts. 
Thresher's  Travelliiig  Bags. 

SOLD  ONLY  BY 

THRESHER  &  GLENNY, 

NE^CT  DOOR  TO  SOMERSET  HOUSE^ 
STRANDi 


16  MURRArS  HANDBOOK  AD VERTISEB.  May, 

VISITORS  TO  THE  CONTINENT. 

37,  Finsbury  Square,  London, 

(Ub.  Ouvibb  established  m  1830,) 

COMMISSION  MERCHiNIS  AND  GENERAL  AGENTS 

For  Shipment  and  Reception  of  Goods  to  and  from  aU  Parts  of  the  World, 

and  XMP0&TSB8  OF  WIHBS,  ^. 

rvLITIER  &  GABB  have  the  honour  to  iafonn 
^  VISITORS  TO  THE  CONTINENT 

I      that  they  undertake  to  receive  and  pass  through  the  Customhouse  in  London, 

Liverpool,  Southampton,  &c., 

V0BX8  of  AST,  BAGGAGS,  and  FB0FEBT7  of  EYXBT  SSSCSIPTXOH, 

which  aie  attended  to  on  arnval 
with  the  atmost  Care  in  £zamination  and  Bemoral, 

under  their  own  pci'sonal  superintendence.    They  beg  to  call  paiiicnlar  attention  to 

tlieir  Koderate  Charges, 

which  have  given  universal  satisfaction. 

Many  Travellci*s  having  expresi^ed  a  desire  to  know  in  anticipation  to ^  what 
expenses  their  Purchases  ai*e  liable  on  arrival  in  England,  the  following 

Bates  of  Charges  on  the  Reception  of  Packages 

may  be  relied  upon,  for  Landing  from  the  Ship,  Clearing,  Delivery  in  London, 
and  Agency  :■— 

On  Tininks  of  Baggage about  9s.     each. 

On  Cases  of  Works  of  Art,  &c.,  of  moderate  size  and  value  .  about  15ti        „ 
„  „  „         of  larger        „  „    2at.toll6t.        „ 

On  very  large  Cases  of  valuable  Statuary,  Pictures,  &c.,  on  which  an  estimate 

cannot  well  be  given,  the  charges  will  depend  on  the  care  and  trouble  reqnlred. 

When  several  cases  are  sent  together  the  charges  are  less  on  each  case. 

OLIVIER  &  CARR  undertake  the 

FOBWABDIHG  OF  FAGXAGES  OF  EVEBT  XIHB 

to  the  Continent,  to  the  care  of  their  Correspondents,  where  they  can  remain,  if 

required,  until  the  arrival  of  the  owners. 

Also 
THE  EXECTJTIOH  OF  OBBEBS  FOB  THE  FUBCHASE  OF  GOODS 

of  all  kinds,  which,  from  their  long  experience  as  Commission  Merdiants,  they 
are  enabled  to  buy  on  the  most  advfuitageous  tenns. 
Besidents  on  the  Continent  will  find  this  a  convenient  m.ean8  of  ordering  any- 
thing they  may  require  &om  Loudon. 

N.B. — The  keys  of  locked  Packages  should  always  be  sent  to  OuviER  &  CarB, 
as  everything,  although  iree  of  duty,  must  be  examined  by  the  Customs  on  arrival. 

INSUBAKCES  EFFECTED,  and  Agency  Business  of  every  description 

attended  to. 


1867. 


HITRRArS  HANDBOOK  ADVEBtlSER. 


It 


At  JMB'la-Cfhapdle 
9,  AleaxMclHa. 

, »  BmU  .     . 
•  ,  Bdoffna  » 
t,*Bcrdtaum 
y,  BonOofint. 


>» 

>» 
•  > 

>» 

>f 
I* 


Dresden  . 
PfonJkfort 


Genoa 


Bavbwrg 
Sii»rt      . 
Interlackm 
Letpttiff' 

,,  Ltfiam  . 

,,  Malta     . 

, ,  MarieiUa 


*» 

» I 


ff  MOan. 
^^irafUti 


f,  Oftorul 
o  Pttrii. 

„Patt    . 
,,  Pragv€ 


•« 
»• 
•  t 


Triutt     . 
Vienna    . 


.    MeBsn.  ▲.  SOUHEUK  and  GO. 
.,  .Mr.J.  W.BROWNJB. 
.    Mr.  t,  VERELLBN"  BEERNAERT. 
Meen^  YLEUQ-EUI  and  GUFFANTI. 

•  Mr.  J.  J.  FREY. 

,  jiea^  ANTOKio  Hija5ra:rn  wd  00. 

.  .    Mr.  F.  BGTERHAN. 

,    Mr.  L.  BRANLY,  81,  Rue  Napoleon, 
p    Mr.  G.  LUYCKX.  24.  Rue  dea  FabrlqijiM. 
Mr.  I^  STEIN,  22,  Montagne  de  la  Cov. 

•  MeflAtL  MORY,  Blre.'FiUi,  and  ^t)GU£. 
.    MeBsrs.  a  H.  VAW  ZUTPHEN  and  CX). 

Measn.  a.  TILMES  and  GO. 
.    Messrs.  YAUSAMAOBY  and  00.,  Galata. 
.    Messrs.  KRAETSGHMER  and  CO. 

•  Messrs.  HASKARD  and  SON,  4,  Borgo  SS.  Apostoll. 
Messrs.  W.  H.  WOOD  and  CO.  \  Mr.  J.  TOUGH. 

,    Mr.  MARTIN  BECKER,  5^  BleldensMaM. 

Mr.  MORITZ  R  GOLD0CHMmr,  BMriur. 
«    Msasrs.  JOLIMAY  and  CO. 
.    Messrs.  G.B.  PR ATOIONGO  and  00. 

Messrs.  P.  CAUVIN.  DIAMANTI,  and  008TA. 

.    Messrs.  JULIUS  WtJSTENFELD  and  00. 

.    Messrs.  GBR.  EGLIN  and  MARmG. 

.    Messrs.  RITSCHARD  and  BURKL 

.    Messrs.  GERHARD  and  HEY. 

.    Means.  BBIfPEBaOZI  BROTHEBSS. 

.    M^srs^ROSE  8e  CO.  . 

.    Messrs.  QIRAtTD  FRfillES. 

Messrs.  HORACE  BOOCHET  and  CO. 

•  Messrs.  GIO.  CaRTl  &  FIG«. 
.    Messrs.  GUTLEBEN  and  WKIDElRT. 
.    Mr.  TH08.  RAGLAND. 

Mr.  E.  Sr0R£Y»  261,  Riviera di Oiioja. 

Mr.  M.  CFJIULLI.  SST.  Rivfera  dT  Cbma,  [le  Port). 

•  Messrs.  LES  F1L8  DB  CH.  GIORDAN,  Qttai  tonel,  14  (snr 
.  Mr.  J,  DUCL08  ASSANDRL  [Marttn,  43. 
.    Messni  LANGL0I8  FILS  FR!fcBS&  Roa  des  Marais  St. 

M.  HECTOR  L'HERBIEB,  U,  B«it  ds  UDovane. 
.    Mr.  BERGEROr. 

.    Mr.  J.  J.  SEIDU  Hiberoergaank  Nov  lOOOw 
.    Mr.  X  P.  SHEA,  11,  Pfazsa  di  Spa^ 

Messnk  A.  TOMBINI  and  00. 
.    Mr.  J,  A.  HOC  WENS;  Messrs.  P.  A.  TAN  Sa  and  G0» 
.    Messrs.  MARTIN  PRfiBSS. 
.    Mr.  CHIABODO  PIE  PRO,  Vfa  Dora  Grossc,  13. 
.    Mr.  HENRY  DECOPPET. 
.    Mr.  ANTON  POKORNY,  Stadt  Sonnenfelsgaase^  % 

Any  other  houses  trill  also  forward  goods  \p  0.  k  C.  on  receiving  instractiona 
to  do  so.  Travellers  are  requested  always  to  gire  particular  directions  that  their 
Packages  are  OOAtigBfld  direet  to  OLIVIER  &rCABR,  37,  FtNSBUKT  SQUAXIE. 


i 


VBiCsa  OF  y^  I  N  E  S  ™^'Ki'£'i>  B^ 
OLIVISR  AND  CARB, 

▲amns  tx>  caowsas. 

^'^o—  per  dos.  duty  paid. 

Clttfetf  Shipped  by  F.  Beyermatii  Bordeaux ]81,24«.«3os^3$«.,tol20i' 

MWMnuAsr     „     Dnmonlin  sine,  Savlgny-soua-Beanne    .  24c.,  28a,  3<I«.,  to  84s* 

BO€K  4k  Moselle,  Jodocius  Fr^s  k  Co.,  Coblents    .     .  31«.,  30s.,  36«.,  to  120t 

,,  SpaxkUfig,  M  •     .  48'-  to  60s* 

Cliampaipne 48s.  to  72s* 

lCarsala«  in  Qr.  Casks,  from  iCil;  Hhds.  ie2i    ....  26s.  to30r 

Fifties  Gold,  or  Brown,  In  iQr.GMc%  £16  to  iCai.d«ihrered  i^mtOk' 

OkASSS,  fi^UNi^r,  and  Hock,  io.tlid  Wpod,  ait ^rcnrers'  Prioei^  .-, 
DMUd  frUie  Listt  fnay  t;«  %ad  qf  0,  &  C,  3l,  An^bury  Square. 


1807.  MUiiKAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVEKTlbEU.  19 

13JMEt)lATK    RELIEF    TO    ASTHMA,    CONSCMPTION,    INFLUENZA, 
COUGHS,  COLDS,  and  AtL  DISORDEKS  of  the  BREATH, 

THROAT,  AKD  LUNGS, 

Cures  of  Influenza,  Colds,  Asthma,  Conscmftion,  and  Diseases  of 

THE  Chest  and  Lunos. 

From  Mn  H.  Annstrong,  Draggist,  i.  Church  Street,  Proton  :— 

*  Tbe  coaotrj  little  koowa  the  Ijenefickl  effects  that  are  to  be  derived  fiK>m  tfaem»  or  no  one 
with'  the  aUgbteat  or  most  inTeterate  disease  of  the  lungs  would  be  without  them,  lean 
with  confidence  recommend  tbem^  having  seen  so  many  hundred  cases,  In  which  they  have 
never  failed.' 

To  SINdBBS  and  FTTBLIC  SPBAKBBS  Br.  IiOOOGK's  WAFEBS 

are  invalaable. 
•    They  incroase  the  flexibility,  power,  and  clearness  of  the  voice,  remove  hoarseoess,  and 

give  great  strength  to  tiie  tfamat  in  redsting  colds.    • 
Price  If.  lid.,  2«.  9d..  and  As.  9d.  per  Box.    Sold  by  all  Chemists. 


N—  —  ^  -, 


IHBIGSSTIOK  AKB  BILE. 

The  coly  eflisctoal  and  pleasant-tasting  SwKACino  A^saxw(t,  and  AifTiBixjous  Medicine  Is 

DR.  LOCOCK'S  EXCELSIOR  WAFERS. 

It  actt  prompUjf,  iattei  deUgktfUUtt,  and  requires  no  rt^raint  in  tUet  or  haJbits, 
Sold  at  U,  lid.,  2i.  9d.,  and  4s.  6d.,  by  all  Dmggists,  and  by  the  Proprietors'  Agents, 
Da  &I.VA  &  Op.,  26,  Bride-lane,  Fleet-streett  London,  E.G. 


BOBDBAUX. 


HOTEL    DE    NANTES, 

^^UAT  IjOUIS  XVHI.,  No.  6. 

KiBST-CLASB  Hotel,  most  delightfully  situated,  facing  the  Poi*t»  in  the  e«Dtre  of 
the  City,  near  the  Promenades,  the  Exchange,  and  Theatres,  is  fitted  up  la  a  most 
8a|>eriQr  style,  has  a  good  Restaurant,  and  a  liiirge  Stock  of  Wines. 

Large  and  Small  Apartments  for  Famffies  and  Oentlemeti,  Sitting  Swmfor 

ConoeraaHonf^c.  fc, 

ATTENDANTS  SPEAKING    SEVEAAL   LANQUAQE8. 


MAYENCE. 

.  •  ^  ■•     ' 

HENBT  8PEGHT,  Wixie  Meroilaiit  and  GrolrBr. 

This  fint-tate  and  etcellent  Hotel  (combining  every  English  comfort),  situated 
in  front  of  the  Bridge,  ia  the  nearest  Hotel  to  the  Steamboats  and  close  to  the 
Bailway  Stations.  From  its  Balconies  and  Booms  are  Picturesque  Views  of  the 
Rhine  and  Mountains,  Gdlignani,  Times,  and  Ilkstrated  News  taken  in.  The 
Tahle^'Hote  is  renowned  for  its  excellence,  and  for  its  OemuHO  Bheilish  Wines 
and  SparkUny  Hock|  which  Mr.  Specht  exports  to  England  at  iTltofosale  Pxioes. 
■  ■        ,  V  ^^  2    '■■■ 


20 


MURRArs  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


tis) 


PLYMOUTH. 


THE    ROYAL    HOTEL 

PATBOinSED  BT  THS  SVGUn  AVD  AU  THE  OOimNEHTiX: 

lOTAL   VAlOLnHI.  } 


FIEST-CLASS    PAMILT    HOTEL, 

SITUATED    VX    THE    MOST    COMMAKDINO.    HEALTHF0U    AND    OENtStt 

(QUARTER   OF   PLYMOUTH. 

Gujjiciently  far  {five  minute^  from  the  station  to  ht  ftee  of  its  annoyances, 

HANDSOME   COFFEE-ROOM. 
EXTENSIVE    POSTING   ESTABLISHMENT. 

CHARGES    AS    PER    PRINTED    TARIFF. 
An  Ommhiis  attends  evei'y  Tvavij  and  Carriages  '^ordered* 

S.  PEARSE,  Pbopbiktot. 


LAOROIX   and  PALCOUNET, 

J.   LACROIX^   SUCCESSOR,    .         .         - 

WARRANTED  WATCH  MANITPACTUREBj 

2,  BEL-AIfi,,  1st  Floor,  OlESWfA.  I 


•  MR,  MURRAY^ 

HANDBOOK 


FOB 


OABTS  IMPBOVED   POCKET) 

T0t7BIST*S  TEL£SOOP£.       {  With  Clue  Map  and  Flam,  16ino,'38.  M 
{See  *  Murray's  Handbook.*)  \ 

Makufacturee  of  all  descriptions  of  Mathe-  | 
inatical,  Surveying,  aud  Optical  Instruments, 
for  the  use  of  Naval  and  Miiitury  OflSoers,  kc. 
Also  the  new  Binixrular  Reconnoitring  Field 
Glass,  in  Aluminium  of  exceeding  lightness 
and  durability,  so  highly  spolcen  of  by  oflkeri 
and  otlier  gentlemen  :  from  11.  Is. ;  ordinary 
metal  from  2i.  10«.  Gary's  improved  Achro- 
matic Microscope,  with  two  set*  of  choice 
lenses,  capable  of  defining  the  severe  test 
objects;  from  .4i.  4«.  Travelling  Spectacles 
of  all  kinds. 

Mathematical  and  Optical  Instrument 
Maker  to  the  Admiralty,  Trinity  Hou^e, 
l{oyal  Military  Gollege.  Sandhurst,  Royal 
Geographical  Society,  Christ's  Hospital,  and 
East  India  Gollege,  Afcra,  &c ;  and  Optician 
to  tbe  Royal  Loudon  (^hthalmic  HospitaL 

IBl,  SIAAND,  lOVDOK. 
Sstatldiilied  upwards  of  a  Cvntxof, 


LONDON  AS  IT 

A  Complete  Guide  to  aU  the  Oh 
cmd  SiglUs  c/  the  MettopoUi] 


Jous  MumiAT,  Albemarle  Stn 


18^7. 


MUKRArS  HANDBOOK  ADVfillTISEB. 


21 


PASSPORT   AGENCY   QFFICE, 

tX>m)0%  69,  yLEET  STBEET>  B.  0.  . ,       .\ .     j 

Begulatioxui  fbr  obtaixiing  Foreign  Office  Fjftseports  gratis. 

RESIDENTS    in    the    country    or 
London,  who  desire  to  avoid  trouble,  can 
bave  PAfiSFORTS  obtained  and  vised.    Ckmntry 
Be«ideQ(8»  by  this  arrangement,  are  fiaved  the 
trouble  of  a  personal  attendance,  as  th«  Passport 
can  be  forwarded  to  them  by  Pott  {m  RigU). 
Fee  obtaining  Passport,  It.  6d. ;  Visas,  It.  each. 
PotQMrtt  eatr^uUy  Mounted  and  Com,  amd 
Ncme$kttaredOureoninGoUL  ■> 

Puivort  Caseg  from  li.  6d.  to  6s.  eaeh. 
Vitas  obtained  to  Onited  States  Passports. 
:  Every  4e9ci<ptiMi  of  Beqoisitea  tar  iVavellera. 

THE  LATEST  EDITIONS  OF   MURRAY'S    HANDBOOKS.      !; 
•fiKAOiBAW's  British  and  CoMrmeHTAL  Gxttdbs  and  Havpbooks  to  France,  Belgiom, 

SwltMTliDd.  Italy,  Spain  and  Portngal,  Normandy,  Brittany,  Tyrol.  Paris,  London,  &c.   ' 
Bbajxbuaw's  Oqmplete  Phrase  Books,  French,  ItfUlan,  Spanish,  and  German,    it.  each^ 
BbadshaWs  Overland  and  Through  Route  Guide  to  India,  China,  and  Australia,  fit. 
Bbaoshaw's  Handbook  to  the  Bombay  Presidency  sad  the  Nortb-Weit  Fxovliicel^  Mtdns, 

and  Bengal,  lOt.  each. 
Kkllab's,  Lbuthol^'Si  and  ZaajJsB't  Kapa  of  Switzerland.     Hata^  Mat  &9  •qik  Ttboi^ 

Original  Editions.  ' 

XnapMdcs.  Rugs,  Waterproof  Coats,  Door*fli6teners,  Handbags,  Portmanteaus,  &o. 
PhnuM  Books  snd  IMctionaries. 
Harfkb's  Hakdbook  to  Europe  and  the  Ekist 
Black's  Guides  to  England.  Ireland,  Wales,  and  Scotland. 
Works  on  Health-Resorts,  Climates,  and  Waters.    By  £pwxK  Lbb,  M.D.,  Member  of  several 

Medical  Academies  and  Societies.  ....._«.  • 

Xxperieneed  Couriers  may  be  engaged  upon  applioation. 

W.  J.  ADAMS  (Bkadshaw'^  BamgH  and  Cqvtiheiital  Gumx  Ofiticb), 

LONDON,  59,  FLEET  STREET,  E.C. 

Otfice  Hours  8  to  7.    Saturdays  8  to  3. 


iraS  COHTINENTAI  DAILT  PABCELS  ZXPBESS  (established  1849s 

•^  Sole  Ao£NTS  for  Enqlaiio  of  the  Belgian  Government  Railway  and  Koyal 
Prussian  Post-Office,  and  Corres|  ondents  of  the  Northern  of  France  Railway, 
CONVEY  by  MAIL  PACKIiTS  EVERY  NIGHT  (Sunday  excepted),  vii  DOVER, 
CALAIS,  and  OSTEND,  Samples,  Piircels,  and  Packages  of  all  kinds  between 
ENGLAND  and  EVERY  STaTE  on  the  CONTINENT  ;  also(,  to  the  LEVANT, 
MEDITERRANEAN,  &c.,  at  filled  Through  rates,  including  all  chai-ges  except 
Ihtties  and  Btdriea.     Tables,  with  full  instructiqns  to  senders^  to  be  had  gratis,  at 

Chief  Office  I  63,  GBACEOHITBCH  8TBEST, 
D.  K.  Bridge,  Managerf  to  whom  all  comunications  should  be  addi^essed. 

AGENTS  AND  CORRESPONDENTS:— 
West  Ehd,  34,  Regent  Circus  (Universal  Offlce),        "^ 
Globb  Express,  160.  Cheapside,    r    q  w  wheatlkt  A:  Co 
Leadbnhaix  Street,  150,  }    **•  ^'  wheatlkt  a  co. 

Manchester  :  Sghloesseb.  66.  Fountain  Strrei.    Livebfool  :  Stavelt,  32,  li^ale  Street. 
Prussia,  and  all  Germany.— The  Post  OflBce  of  each  locaUty.  »  ^ 

B6l^ain.'--C#rKND,  64,  Kue  Sl  Joseph :  F.  db  Ridi>eb.—  Brussels,  77,  Montagbe  de  Ja  Cour : 
A.  CROOY.-~Rue  Duqueenoy  and  North  Railway  Station.— Aktwrrp,  Ghent,  Lieqe, 
Verviebs,  and  alt  other  places  in  Belgium :  Government  Hallway  Station. 
Honftffd- — ^In  all  the  pr'mcipal  Towns :  Van  Gbhd  and  Lous. 

France.— Paris,  PritcAard  and  Monnerov,  Agents  to  P.  and  O.  and  Royal  Mail  Companies, 
4,  R^e  Rossini.    Boulogne,  Rue  de  I'Ecu :  G.  Sauvaoe. 

N.B.— Amount  of  Invoices  and  out  charges  collected  on  dellverv  of  parcels  in  Belgium, 
Holland.  Prussia,  and  other  States  of  the  Zollvereln ;  and  parties  wishing  to  obtain  goods  of 
any  kind  from  the  Continent  can  have  them  sent  through  this  Express  **  Comtre  Rbm souita]^ 
KEST  "—Payment  on  delivery. 

Londant  53,  Gracechwrch  Street,  UtMay,  1867. 


22 


MtJRRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


Mar, 


Stanford's  Foreign  Office  Passport  Agency, 

6,  CHABINO  CROSS,  LONDON,  S.W. 


FUBports  (whioh  art  g^  for  life) 
mounted  on  Mo9l!n  or  SAk,  in  Boui, 
Moroooo,  or  Russia  Oaae,  with  tbe 
name  of  tlM  Owno:  lettered  on  tbe'. 
ontdde,  thus   preyenting  Injniy  or^ 
loss,  as  well  as  Ifuwenlng  the  delay  in  i 
examination  abroad. 

For  further  partieatan,  inchidii^ 
the  Forms  of  Applicatioii,  Ont  of. 
Passport,  Visas,  Jb&  Ac,  see  Stan- 1 
ford's  Vassport  <9ireiil«r,i 

which  wiD  be  Ibrwanted  per  poet  on 
receipt  of  One  Stan^ 

STANFORD'S  TOURIST'S  CATALOGUE, 

Containing  Title,  Price,  Aeo.,  of  the  'Best  Guisp  Books,  Hafs,  Cokvsbsatios  Books^  Dxctios-  ] 
ARI1S8,  &c.  ftc,  published  in  the  United  Kingdom,  the  Continent,  and  America,  Gratis  m 

application,  or  free  per  post  for  One  Stamp. 

JjWDOSt  EDWARP  STANFORD,  «.  Chabikq  CRoaB»  &W.,  I 

Agent  for  the  Sale  of  the  Ordnance  Maps,  Geological  Survey  Maps,  imd  Admfaalty  Charts.  1 


THE  LONDON  and  WESTMINSTER  BANK  issues  Circular  Notes  of  £10, 
£25,  and  £50  eaoh,  for  the  use  of  Travellers,  payable  in  the  principal  Towns  on  the 
Continent  of  Europe,  also  in  Asia,  Africa,  and  North  and  South  America.  Ho  expense 
whatever  is  Incnned,  and  when  cashed  no  charse  is  made  for  oommicston.  Letters  of  Credit 
are  also  granted  on  the  Bame  places.  They  may  be  obtained  at  the  City  Office  in  Lothbnry, 
or  at  any  of  the  Brandies,  viz.  :— 


Westminster  Brandi, 
Bloomsbnry 
South  wark 
Eastern 
Marylebone 
Temple  Bar 
Lambeth   - 


M 


1,  St.  James's  Sqnaie. 
214,  nigh  HoI)x)m. 

3,  Wellmgton  Street,  Boroni^. 
130.  High  Street  Whitecbapel. 

4.  Stratford  Place,  Oxford  Street 
217,  Strand. 

89  &  91,  Westminster  Bridge  Road. 


M«y  It  1866. 


Wk.  EWINQ3.  General  Manager. 


BERLIN.  ] 

-1 

' — ' —  i 

HOTEL      ROYAL. 

Proprietor:  Kr.  VBXStKBXCK  lAHOS,  ] 

UNTER  DEN  LINDEN,  No.  3,  and  corner  of  Wilhelm  Street. 

Thia  Hotel  Is  in  the  best  situation  of  the  town,  near  the  Pr6menade,  the  King's  Thealns, 
the  Museum,  &c  ;  it  is  most  elegantly  furnished,  and  offerM  good  accommodation  for  all 
classes  af  travelleis.  Saloons  and  large  apartments  for  Familiea.  Waterworks  and  Baths  fn,^ 
the  Hotel.  Carriages.  Table  d'Ii6tc  at  3.  Private  dinners  and  suppers  at  ai^  hour.  Good] 
English  cuisine,  and  French  restanrant  in  on  elegant  saloon.  Prompt  attendance  and  rnode^l 
rate  prices.  i 


18d7.  MU^BArS  HANDBOOK  ADVEBTISSa,  23 


^.1 
II 


CORN 


7ai3l«y,  HuuiliMter,  DuDUn,  «  London.       . 

This  iavourite  artiole  of  Diet  is  especially  stiitable  for  ] 

PUDDINGS,  CUSTARDS,  BLANCMANGES ; 

and,  being  very  light  and  of  easy  digestibility,  it  is 

recommended  for 

BREAKFASTS,  SUPPERS,  &C., 

for  which  it  is  easily  prepared,  requiring  only  to  be  boiled  with 

milk  for  eight  mimites. 

It  is  preferred  for  all  the  purposes  to  which  the  best  Arrowroot 
is  applicable,  and  prepared  in  the  same  manner. 

For  various  purposes,  such  as  to  thicken  Sottps,  Sanc^s,  Beef- tea, 
frc,  it  is  invalnable,  and  extensively  used  in  all  parts  of  the  world. 

(■ ~:    ;; 

i       OAUTIOK.—To  obtain  extra  profit  by  the  sale,  other  kinds  are 
i  sometimes  substituted  instead  of  BEOWU  and  POLSON'S. 

i 


I 


24  MURRArS  HANDBOOK  ADTEOITISKR.  Maj, 

■  -       "I ■     .1  ■    '       I      II    I         ■■— I  ■!■  II  ■■■II   iiw» -m    ■■■    I  -li*— — .1         >         I  ..   11  i.iij 

BONN    ON   THE   RHINE. 

MR.  SCHMITZ, 

PBOPBIETOR  OF  THE  GOLDEN  STAB  HOTEL, 

Bias  leave  to  recommend  his  Hotel  to  Englisli  Travellers.  The  apart- 
ments are  fonughed  througbout  In  the  English  style ;  the  rooms  are 
carpeted ;  and  the  attendance^  as  well  as  tha  kitchen  and  the  wine- 
cellar,  is  well  provided.  Kb.  SOHMITZ  begs  td^.add  that  at  no  first- 
fate  Hotdl  «B  tbe  Rhina  will  be  faund  mece  moderfita  -charges  and  more 
cleanliness, 

.  The  STAR  HOTEL  has  been  hononred  by-^the  visits  of  the  following 
Members  of  the  English  Royal  Family : — 

{H.  R.  H.  the  Prince  of  Wales,  acoompanled  by  General  Sir  W.  Ck>DBnrevoir, 
Colonel  PoNSOKBT,  Sir  Ftederio  SiAHLsr,  Dr.  Abutbovo,  Rev.  F.  C. 
Tarter,  Mr.  Gibbs,  etc. 
yuM     An»  OA  ^  R<  R-  H.  the  Prince  of  Walbs  and  his  Snite  paying  a  vialt  at  tt«  Golden 
1867.    Aug,  20-^        5tarFot«I  to  HigMi^esty  the  King  of  the  BsLOiABi. 
1857.    Ang.  8     H.  B.  H.  the  Prtnoe  of  W  alba  and  his  Sqite. 

1  QR'r     Tnw  OQ  (  T.  R.  H.  the  Duchess  of  Gambridob  and  Princess  Mabt  of  Cambkidox, 
i»07.    juiy  jv  ^         accompanied  by  the  Baron  Knbsbbbck  and  Suite. 
iQ«t     Tnw  fi*  5  H.  R.  H.  the  Prince  of  Walks  paying  •  visit  at  the  Gcldti^ Stew  Bota  to 
1897.    J luy  ¥«  ^        T.  R.  H.  the  Duchess  of  Oahbbi]>or  and  Princess  Maby  of  Gaxbbidob. 

(  H.  R.  H.  the  Prince  of  Wales,  aocompanied  by  the  Right  Honourable  C. 
1857.    July  15  {         Grkt,  General  Major,  (Colonel  Ponsonbt,  Sir  Frederic  Stanley,  Dr. 

^        Armstrono,  Rev.  F.  G.  Tabvkr.  Mr.  Gibbs,  etc. 
iQKA     Vnif       i  ^«  R*  ^-  ^no^  Alfred  of  Great  BBrrAiir,  accompanied  by  lientMiaat- 
iisae.    jxov,    .  -^        General  Sir  Frederick  Stovib  and  Lieutenant  Oowkll. 

IH.  M.  Adelaide,  Queen  Dowagbb  of  Great  Britaik,  aoecnnpanied  by 
His  Highness  Prince  Edward  of  Saxe  Weimar,  Lord  and  Lady  Bab- 
BnroTox,  Sir  David  Daties,  M J).,  Bev.  J.  B»  Woox^  MA.,  Captain 
Tatlob,  kc  tn.»  houonred  the  above  estabUthflaeot  with  a  Thbbb 
Days'  Visit. 
1818.  May  .  .  H.  R.  H.  the  Duke  of  Caicbeidob  and  Suite. 
1826.    March    C  H.  R.  H.  the  I>uke  and  Duchess  of  Clabenob  (King  WnxiAX  lY.  and 

and  Sept.    .  I        Queen  Adelaide)  and  Suite. 
1 QQA     Tni V       i  ^*  ^-  Qi^K^  AoELAiDB,  accompanied  by  the  Eail  and  Gountess  of  £bbol» 
1834.    J  my .  .  -J        £j^j.|  j^jj^  Countess  of  Dekbigh,  Earl  and  Countess  Howi;  &c. 

1836.  Aug.     .    H.  R.  H.  the  Duchess  of  Glodcester  and  Suite. 

1837.  July .  •    H.  R.  H.  the  Duchess  of  Cambridge  and  Suite. 

1839.  Nov,     .    H.  R.  H.  the  Prince  George  of  Cambridge  and  Saite. 

j^  ( H.  R.  H.  Prince  Albert  of  Saxe  Cobcro  Gotha,  acoompaiiled  by  Prlnct 

—  ssoy,    .  ^        Ernest  of  Saxe  Coburo  Gotha,  and  their  Snite. 

loiA  (KR.H.  the  Duchess  of  Cambridge,  accompanied  by  the  Princess  AnousiA 

1840.  .  .  .  .  -^        Qf  Cambridge,  and  their  Suite. 

i  ^  ^-  ^-  '^®  Duchess  of  Kent  and  Suite,  accompanied  by  H.  S.  H.  the 

1841.  »  .  .  .-^        Prince  of  Leikingew. 

1841.     •  .  .  •    H.  Ri  H.  the  Duchess  of  Cambridge  and  Suite. 

—  ....    H.  R.  H.  Princess  Carouka  of  Cambridge. 
1844.     ...        H.  R.  H.  the  Duchess  of  Cambridge  and  Suite. 

_        ...        H.  R.  H.  Princess  Mart  of  Cambridge. 

•ioAK     T«n*      ( H.  R.  H.  the  Duchess  of  Kbkt  and  Suite,  acoomponied  by  H.  a  H.  tite 

1846.  Jane    .-J        Prinoe of Leiningen.  *^^       #  «.«.*!.  uw 

1847.  Jnly      i  ^*  ^'  ^*  ^^  ^^^  *°^  Duchess  of  Cahbbtdge,  with  thebr  Family  «id 


im. '  MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADYERTISfiR.  25 


MUDIE'S    SELECT    LIBRARY, 


BOOKS   FOB  ALX.   RBADER8. 

FIR8T-CU88  SUBSCRIPTION 
FOB  A  oonsta:nt  succession  of  the  newest  books, 

One  Giilnea  per  j^nnrixn^ 

COMMENCING  AT  ANY  DATE. 


BOOKS  FOR  THE   COUNTRY.       . 

Book  Sodetieg  in  direct  communication  witli  MUDIE'S  SELECT  LIBRARY 
are  now  estabUalied  in  Marly  every  part  of  the  country.  

TXSV8  0?  STOSCmmON:  FOR  TBX  ITXWEflT  BOOKS- 

lifteen  Volumes  at  One  Time Five  Guuieas.pBt  Axmnni, 

And  Tkt99  Yoliuiiee  tor  every  additiooftl  Guinea. 

FOE  OLDFB  BOOKS-  ;  .  : 

Twenty-dye  Volumei  at  One  Time Five  Gnineasper  Annum, 

And  Five  Tolnmea  for  every  additional  Gained. ' 

A  Catalogue  of  Books,  added  to  the  Library  from  JanuarT*,  1S65,  to  tba  present  titDBi  con* 
tainlag  a  -very  large  and  varied  selection  of  Books  in  every  departm^t  of  Literature,  is  now 
ready,  and  will  be  forwarded,  postage  free,  on  application. 


CHEAP  BOOKS.— NOTICE . 

Ptir<jil^r9  of  Books  lor  Public  or  Private  Libraries  and  Literary  Institutions,  at 
home  and  abroad,  Merclianta,  Shipping  Agents,  intending  Emigrants,  and  othars, 
ai9  respectfully  invited  to  apply  for  THE  REVISED  EDITION  OF  MUDIE'S 
CLEARANCE  CATALOGUE.  This  Catalogue  contains  more  than  One  Thousand 
Popular  Bodes  of  the  past  and  present  Seasons,  cut  and  uncut,  with  a  choice 
Selection  of  Standard  Works,  at  the  lowest  current  Prices. 


BOUND   BOOKS  FOR  PRESENTS. 

A  Revised  List  of  Works  by  Scott,  Di<ken8,  Carlyle,  Tennyson,  Macaulay, 
Eingsley,  and  other  Popular  Authors,  selected   chiefly  from  Mudie's  Sei,ect 
.LiBRAtiT,  and  re-issued  in  Omamental  Bindings  for  Piesents  and  School  Prizes,  is 
now  readyj  and  will  be  forwarded,  postage  free,  on  application. 

Jtm-  All  the  Books  in  circulation  or  on  Sale  at  MUDIE'S  SELECT  LIBRARY, 
may  also  be  obtained,  with  the  least  possible  delay,  by  all  Subscribers  to  MUDIE'S 
MANCHESTER  LIBRARY,  74  and  76,  Cross  Street,  Manchester. 


MUDIE'S  SELECT  LIBRARY  (Limited),  New  Oxford  Street,  London. 

CITY  OFFICE— 4,  King  Street,  Cheapside. 


'  — _.-•  ? . 


26 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


w«r, 


NOTICE 


MESSRS.  LETTS,  as  Agents  to 
H.M.'s  Boai-d  of  Ordnnnce  and  the  Geo- 
logical Society,  have  during  the  last  40  years 
been  unceashigly  collecting  the  BKST  MAPS 
from  every  approved  source,  botii  at  home 
and  aoroad.  The  following  epitomised  List  of 
Maps  is  extracted  from  a  Catalogue  which  will 
bo  forwarded  on  receipt  of  a  stamped  addressed 
envelope. 

Travelling,  Library,  <k  Board  Boom  Maps. 

Africa 60/  21/  7/        3/ 

America,  N.&S.    .60/  21/  7/        3/ 

Asia 60/  21/  14/        3/ 

Australia 30/  21/  7/6 

Au-tria 100/  12/  5/ 

British  Isles    ...  73/   .  42/  15/        4/6 

England 84/  .•)2/6  12/        4/6 

Europe     .  '.   .    .   .130/  60/  30/        7/ 

France 40/  25/  10/        3/ 

Germany  .....  4('/ 

Italy 47/        5/  3/ 

India 63/  31/6  12/ 

Ireland ,63/  50/  15/        7/ 

Tx)ndon 55/  42/  15/        6/ 

Paris 25/         7/6  2/6 

Scotland 73/6  52/6  12/ 

Switzerland  ....  16/  12/  7/ 

Turkey 100/  13/  7/ 

United  States      .  .  73/6  25/  7/    " 

World 63/  42/  30/      10/ 

Letts,  Son,  k  Co.,  8,  Royal  Exchange, 
London,  E.C. 

LUCERNE. 

♦  ■ 

ENGLISOHEE   HOF.—  HOTEL 
d'ANGLETEREE. 

Proprietor— JEAN  REBEE. 


OXFORD, 

SPIERS  MD  SON, 

108  ft  108.  HIGH  SiaEET, 

StAIWHKUS,  &C.,  KT  AfPGdSTVSST  TO  HJLH. 

The  Pjukcs  of  Wales. 

Respectfully  Invite  TOURISTS  to  VISIT 
their  Extensive  Warefaooses  for  Useful  and 
Omantental  Manufactures,  snitable  for  Pre- 
sents and  remembrances  of  OXFORD. 

Copies  of  every  published  GU1DE-B0(^ 
and  MAP  of  Oxford  and  its  netghbouriiood 
kept  In  stock,  as  well  as  Photographs,  Stereo- 
scopic Pictures,  Articles  of  Vertu,  &c 

At  the  Great  Exhibiti(»is  in  liondon, 
1851-1862,  Paris,  1855,  and  New  York,  185S, 
'  Honourable  Mention  or  the  Prize  Medal  was 
'  awarded  to  their  Ornamental  Manafaetures. 
i  information  relative  to  Oxford  afforded  to 
,  strangers  visiting  their  establislmients. 

FLORENCE, 


1. 


I^HIS  First-rate  Establishment,  very 
.  well  recommended  by  the  best  class  of 
Travellers,  is  situated  close  to  the  Steamers' 
Landing-place,  and  vis-a-vis  the  Railway  Sta- 
tions, on  the  loveliest  position  of  the  Lake, 
with  superb  views  of  the  Rigi,  Pilatu?,  Alps, 
and  Glaciers;  contains  several  Saloons,  62 
comfortable  Rooms,  Smoking  and  Reading 
Rooms,  where  are  French  and  English  news- 
papers. 


P.  ROMANELLI, 

Sculptor,  Pupil  of,  and  Successor  to,  the  late 
Professor  BartoUni,  has  opened  a  Gallery, 

Lung'  Arno  Guicoiardini,  Ko.  7. 

The  intelligent  amateur  will  find  there  a 
Collection  of  Statues,  both  originals  and  copies, 
artistically  executed.    ■ 

PEiNcrpAL  Works  :— The  Son  of  WilUam 
Tell ;  the  Young  Franklin  ;  the  Young  Wash- 
ington ;  the  Young  Whittington ;  the  Young 
Napoleon ;  the  Young  Moses ;  GaribaldL 

QALIQNANI'S 

NEW  PARIS  GUIDE. 

Compiled  from  the  best  authorities,  revised 
and  verified  by  personal  inspection,  and  ar- 
ranged on  an  entirely  new  plan,  with  Hftp 
and  Plates.  Royal  18mo.  10«.  6<i.  bound  ;  or 
without  Plates,  Is.  6d.  bound. 

London :  Simpkin,  Mabshall,  &  Co. 

ROTTERDAM. 


Charge  for  Booms  per  diem, 

Ifr.  50c. 

to  3fr. 

Ta1»le  d'Hote;  at  1    .  .  . 

3fr. 

»             »       4*30  •  . 

4fr. 

j»             »>       7*30  .  . 

3fr. 

The  •  Times,*  '  Galignani,'  *  Plndepen- 
dance,'  the  '  Bund,'  and  other  German, 
French,  and  American  papers  are  t4)keu  for 
the  Jiendin'T  Room. 


H,  A.  KEAMEES, . 

Importer  of  Foreign  Books. 

Mr.  Mtjbray's  •  Handbooks  for  Travellerg, 
Bra]>shaw's  Monthly  Railway  Guides,  Bae- 
deker's *  Reischandbiicher,*  and  Joakkb'b 
'  Guides  pour  les  Voyageurs,*  always  in 
Stock. 

English,  French,  and  Gtrinan  Books  hn- 

C;ed  Weekly,  and  a  great  variety  of  New 
ks  kept  in  Store. 

47,  GELBEBSCHE  KABE. 


UDRRAyS  HAKI^BOOK  ADVERTISER. 


By  Appointment  to  H.R.H. 


The  Prinoe  of  Wales. 


ALLEN'S    PORTMANTEAUS. 

37,  WEST  STRAND,  LONDON,  W.C. 

XUiUSTBATED  CATAI^OUEB  of  600  ABTIOIiBfl  Foat  Free 


LADT8 

WABDBOBE 

FOETlUSIEAr, 


tT.T.mra  SOUD 

KAHOQAKT 
DBEBSmO-CABE. 


Allen's  Barrack  Furniture  Catalogue,  for 
Officers  joining,  Post  Free. 

PRIZB  MEDAL  AWARDED,  1862, 

FOR    GENERAL    EXCELLENCE. 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER.        May, 


FURNITURE 


FOR 


INDIA.     CHIISr A,   <fec. 


Hann&cture,  ESFECIAI.LT  FOR  EXTREME  CLIMATES, 

SOLID   MAHOGANY   FURNITURE, 

Entirely  free  from  Veneer.    A  large  genei-al  assortment  alwayB  on  riew. 


In  the  Choicest  Designs.    2500  Bedsteads  kept  in  Stock. 


nUl  ^  $0m  PATENT 

« 

Prevents  the  material  from  felting  into  a  mass,  as  is  the  case  in  all  ordinary 
Mattresses.  The  Patent  Mattresses  are  made  of  the  very  best  Horsehair,  are 
thicker  than  usual,  and  the  prices  are  but  a  tiifle  higher  than  those  of  other  good 
Mattrewes. 


ILLUSTRATED  CATALOGUES 

Of  Bedsteads  and  Bedroom  Furniture,  designed  for  INDIA  and  the  EAST,  sent 

Post  Free  to  every  part  of  the  World. 


BEDSTEAD^  SEDBING,  ANB  BDBBOOM  FUBNITUBE 

,  BIANUFACTUBEBS, 

196,  197,  198,  TOTTENHAM-COURT^ROAD,  LONDON,  W. 


1867.  MUKRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER.  29 


\ 


Ton  QU  AX. 

THE    ROYAL    HOTEL, 

KEWLT  FTJBNISHEB  XHHOTTOHOUT. 

PRESENT  PROPRIETOR  t 

MR.  JULIUS  NUELLENS 

(Late  of  ITuelleAB*  Hotel,  Aiz-Ia-C2iape0e), 

Vfko  has  iutroduced  into  this  well-known,  old-established  Hotel  every 
improvement  of  a  first-class  ConHnentai  Hotel. 


PAMlIiDBS*  FASHIOIfABl^E 

(DRESS) 
DAILY  AT  SEVEN  O'CLOCK  P.M„  AT 

A.   SELECT  ;tai3I-.e-i>»h:ote, 

Served  a  la  Basse,  in  the  splendid    Gr^at  BALOOttf  with  which  a 

Ladies*  Drawing  Boom  is  oombined. 


ELEGANT    SOIREES   DANSANTES. 

(A   COMMITTEE.) 

liadiea'  Gaffoe  Boom,  Beading  Boom,  and  Binokifig  Bdt>m« 
A  flrst-rate  French  Chef  de  Cuisine,  and  exquisite  Wine6< 


The  Hotel's  Omnibus  and  Mys  (marked  NtTELliEiCS^  Kpyal  Hotel) 

meet  every  train 

J^v4ry  departnwd  tmder  Mr»  NukUms*  c(nUinual  perBoriat  sUpfrkdefuUnce. 


'  0AtTTI01T.--Ixi  order  to  avoid  mistakes,  please  to  ask  distinctly 

for  NTTZiLLElirS'  Boyal  Hotel 


30'  MUlilUiy'S  HANDBOOK  ADVKKTISER.  lUj, 

MAYNARD,  HARRIS,  &  GKICE, 

6t«eral  (©ut€tttrs  aiitr  ^gmts  for  ^assagts, 

126,  lEADEHHtU  STREET,  LONDDK, 

Asjoonw  THE  OiriCBa  or  tie  punNacuK  ud  Oubitu  Btuh  Sfnat-nai  OdhtaMI. 

MAYNAED,  HARRIS,  &  GRICE,  beg  to  draw  the  attention 
of  Travelkii  t»  Ihelr  tCitablishment,  M  long  nlKl  favonrabl;  knoini  for  On 
superior  quslitj  of  their  goods. 

Evtry  descriptioD  of  Supplies  required  bj  Tf«Tellor>  always  ready, 
VULLOCK  TSUITEB,  OTSKLAITD  IRVITSB,  POKIKUTTUin,  M. 
raXTLSUt  BXDBTSAD8,  with  Bedding,  be,  complete,  in  WMerpraof  Talim. 
FOBTABLZ  L&KF8.    EASSLSBY. 
WZABIHO  AFPASEI  oi  erery  dtscription. 

U.,  H.,  &  G.  would  especixll)'  folidt  an  inspectioa  of  tie  fiiUowiDg  articlei, 
•peciallj  adapted  for  Tropical  Climales. 

LEVtITOE-8  Aim-JIOSaTIITO  COItlAIlfS. 


OAK  OABTSXSS,  cont^iuDg  Breakfut  Sci-rice  complete  for  Two  PenoiB, 
3i.  IOj.  to  bl. 

OAX  C&HTKKKB,  coatainiDg  Bi-cakfa^t  and  Dinner  Sercice  complete  for  Twv 
Persons,  t;;.  10s.  to  9/. 

INDIA  GAUZE  tTHIEB-CUJ'IMlHQ,  tnanulactured  apet^allf  for  wear  in 
Hot  Climate. 

FLAHHEL  OB  SILK  AUD  WOOL  SHIBTS. 

FLAlTirEL  OB  TTEED  BUllS.    AIBjmAKBEB  HA«  4  EXLXETB. 
.fyf  Parlicufori  antf  Priced  Lists  vpon  i^iplicalion. 
PaasageB   SlnKaeed.      BaEKage    Shipped,  Cleared,  Mid  WarahouMdi 
I2U,  Leadebhau.  Street,  LoNtKis,  E,C. 


1867.  MURRAY^S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISiiR.  31 


BOOKS  AND  MAPS  FOR  TRAVELLERS. 


HX»«<< 


THE  ITOBTH-WEST  PEKIlTBXrLA  of  IGXMND;  being  tide  Journal  of 

*  Tour  in  Iceland  In  the  Summer  of  1862.  IJy  C.  W,  Shephebu,  M.A.,  F.Z.L.  With 
a  Map  an^  Two  lUostratlons  in  Ghromolithography.    Fcap.  8vo.   is.  6d 

'BEATER  TBAOKS;  or.  Pen  and  Pencil  Sketoliei  in  Italy.  By  the  Authoress 
of  *  How  ,we  Spent  tbe  Summert'  With  42  Idthogri^c  Piat^  containing  aboat 
300  Sketches.    8va    XQs. 

HOW  WE  SPENT  THE  SUUtEE;  or,  a  <  Voyage  en  2agzag'  in  Switier- 

land  and  Tyrc^  with  some  Sfembers  of  tbe  Alpine  Club.  From  the  Sketch-book  of  one 
of  tbe  Party.  Third  Kdition,  re-drawn.  Jin  oblong  4to.,  with  about  300  Illustrations, 
price  1S«.  cloth. 

A  6UIBE  to  SPAIN.    By  H.  O'Shea.    Post  8vo.,  with  Map,  158. 
OXnBS  to  the  PYRENEES,  for  the  nae  of  Xotintaineen.     By  Ohabuss 

Packs.    With  Maps.  &c.    Kew  Edition,  enlarged,  nearly  ready. 

THE  COMMEBGIAL  HANDBOOK  of  FBANCE.  By  Fbederick  Maktik, 
Authorof  The  Statesman's  Year- Book.'    With  Three  Maps.    Crown  8vo.    7<.6d. 

GUIDE  to  the  EASTEEN  AIPS.  By  John  Ball;  F.t.S.,  M.R.r.A.,  late  Pre- 
sident of  tbe  Alpine  Club.   Post  8vo.,  with  Maps  and  other  Illustrations.       [7n  xliejpras. 

GXTIDE  to  the  WESTEBN  ALPS,  comprisiiig  Dauphine;  Savoy,  and  Predmont ; 
with  the  Mont  Blanc  and  Monte  Rosa  Districts.  By  the  same  Anthor.  With  an  Article 
on  th6  Geology  of  the  Alps  by  M.  £.  Desqb.    Pot>t  8vo.,  with  Maps,  &c.    7«.  6d. 

GtTIDE  to  tiie  OBEBLAND  and  ALL  SWITZEBLAND,  excepting  the  Neigh- 
bourhood of  Monte  Rosa  and  the  Great  St.  Bernard;  with  Lombardy  and  the  adjoiidng 
poi'tlon  of  Tyrol.    By  tbe  same  Author.    Post  8 vo,  with  Maps,  &c    7f.  6d. 

ftOBENGE,  the  NEW  CAPITAL  of  ITALY.   By  Charles  Kiohard  Weld. 

Wi^  23  Woodcut  lllufitratlous.    PostSvo.    12«.  6<2. 

PEAKS)  PASSES,  and  6LAGIEB8;  a  Series  of  Excnrsiona  hy  tfemhers  of 

the  Alpine  Club.    Fully  Illustrated  with  Maps  and  EngraViogs. 

FIRST  SKRiES.    Edited  by  JbHjc  BaIl,  M,B.I.A.,  F.L.S.    Square  crown  8Vo.,  21«.; 
OTt  \^mo.  {TraveUing  BditionX  ^,  ed. 

r  SECOXJ)  SKRIES.    Edited  by  Edwari>  SHiknr  Keitoedt,  M.A.,  F.R.G,a    2  vols. 
Square  crown  8vo.  42«. 

"^  liflNErEEM  MAPS  of  the  ALPINE  DISTRICTS,  from  the  Pinsr  and  Second  SbJwes 
of '  Peaks,  Passes,  and  Glaciers.*  Square  Crown  8vo.,  in  envelope  portfolio,  7«.  ed. 

HAP  of  the  CHAIN  of  XONT  BLANO,  from  an  actual  Survey  in  1863-64. 
By  A  ADAHs-KEiLtv,  F.R.G.S.,  M.AC.  Published  under  the  authority  of  the  Alpine 
Cltib.  In  Chromollthograpby  on  extra  stout  drawhig  paper  28  in.  by  17  In.,  price  lot, ; 
or,  mounted  on  canvas  in  a  folding  case,  12s.  6d. 

ALPINE  CLTTB  KAP  of  SWITZEBLANb  and  the  adjacent  Conntriee, 


on  a  scale  of  ^ij^ssa  (four  miles  to  an  inch),  fVom  S(diaffhausen  on  the  North  to  the 
.Southern  Slopes  of  the  Yal  d'Aosta  on  the  South,  and 'from  the  Orteler  group  on  the 
East  to  (jeneva  on  the  West,  constructed  under  the  immediate  super inten^'nce  of  tbe 
AlphieClub,  and  Edited  by  Mr.  R.  C.  Nichols,  F.R.G.S.  Engraved  by  Alkxandkr 
Kbxth  Johnston,  F.R.G.S.  lln preparation, 

%•  The  First  Sheet,  being  the  NorthrWest  portion  of  Switzerland,  and  comprising  Bftle. 
lALceme,  Interlachen,  Giindelwald,  J@em,  Frelburi^  and  Neuchfttel,  is  expected  to  be  ready  in 
June. 

li        I  ■  ■      '     »  'I 

London  :  LOKaMAlTS,  GREEN,  and  CO.,  Paternoster  Ro«r. 


31^  MURRArS  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISEB.  ^fi 


RECONNOITERER"  CLASS 


THIS  WIDELY  MSNOW^EP 

"TOURIST'S    FAVOUfelTE" 

The  best  Landscape  Glass  in  the  World ! ! 

Is  sent  free  to  any  address  in  Great  Britain  or  Ireland  for  10«.  lOd ! !  ! 

It  can  also  be  sent  at  an  additional  expense  (wbidi  hi  some  cases  is  trifling)  to  any  part  of 
the  Continent,  as  well  as  to  Asia,  Africa*  and  America^ 

Mabquis  of  CARUABTHEif :  *"nie  Reconnolterer  is  very  good." 
Babl  of  Caithness  :  "  It  is  a  beantifnl  Glass." 

£1abl  of  Brradajlbanb  j  "  I  find  it  all  you  say,  and  wonderfully  powerful  for  so  very  small 

a  Glass." 

txHUD  Gakvagh  :  *'  It  Is  remarkably  good." 

tlEV.  Loud  ScARSDALE  "approves  of  it." 

IXAD  CLEttMOKT :  •*  It  18  Surprisingly  good  for  Its  prioe."-  ;        . 

Lord  Gotfobd  :  ••  A  most  useftil  Glass." 

Sib  Diqbt  Gatley  :  "  It  gives  me  complete  satis&ction,  and  Is  wonderfully  goiod.^' 

Sir  W.  H.  Fieldev:  **  For  its  size,  I  do  not  consider  it  can  be  surpassed,  ft  gives  great 
satisfaction." 

Majob  StABKBT,  of  Writnbury :  *  Quite  as  powerWl  as  tftat  for  which  I  gave  61.  U." 

Capt.  Sendbt,  Boyal  SpnaU  Arms  Factory,  Bnfield :  "  I  have  foqnd  it  ^ectlve  at  ti>e 

lOOO-yards  range." 

F.  H.  Fawkes,  of  Famley,  Esq. :  "  I  never  beforet  although  I  have  tried  many,,  met  a  Glass 
combining  so  much  power,  for  its  size,  with  so  much  clearness." 

Our  *  Abchert  CoRRBasPOKDEKT  "  (Qiteen)  says  that  f  the  portability  of  the  KeconacAtefer 
Glass  is  not  its  least  recommendation ;  while  its  adaptabUity  to  uses  in  whteh  protracted 
and  minute  observation  of  arrows  entering  various  ranges  at  different  distances  is  abso- 
lately  necessary,  as  in  archery  matches,  renders  tiM  Beconnoiterer  obe  of  the  besiaids  to 
visual  power  ever  placed  at  the  command  of  totaptilitBa  "'^Queeru 

*'  The  economy  of  price  is  not  prorured  at  the  cost  of  eflSciency.  We  have  Garefully  tried  the 
instrument  at  an  800-yard  rifle  range,  against  all  the  glasses  possessed  by  the  members 
of  the  corps,  and  found  jt  folly  equal  to  any  of  those  present,  although  they  had  odst 
more  than  four  times  its  price." — The  Field. 

"What  Tourist  will  now  start  without  such  an  Indispensable  companion ?"«*-J\rofe8  and 
Queries. 

CAtTTiOK.— The  extraordinary  success  of  this  instrument  has  given  rife,  on  the  part  of 
unprincipled  dealers,  to  vile  and  worthless  imitations.  ■ 

The  cdeJ/raJted  "  HYTHJE:"  Glast  thorn  Bullet  Marks  at  1200  TarOt,  md  Mm  at  Bh  MOeg, 

Price  3U.  6d.  , 

\*  These  Glasses  form  the  very  best  j^ourists'  Companions  that  can  possibly  be  selectedi  and 
. accordingly  the  number  annually  sold  for  the  purpose  is  enormotiB. 


All  the  above,  respectively  bearing  the  Registered  Trade^narks,  "RiscoSKortEftEB** 
and  **  HrrBEr  are  only  to  be  had  direct  from,  and  by  written  appHcation  t6, 

SALOM  &  CO.,  98,  Frince's-street,  Edinburgh/ and 
137,  Begent^street,  London,  W. 

A  few  hours  suffice  to  cany  a  -  Reconnoiterer  "  to  almost  the  remotest  ViUage  in  the 
King^ffm,    Most  positively,  no  Agwts  (f  tmy  kind  emywhere. 


1867.  MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVEKTISEE.  8!! 


FOREIGN    BOOKS   AT   FOREIGN    PRICES. 


■«o^ 


TBXVmJLEm  may  save  expense  and  trouble  by  purchasing  Foreign  Book*  ia 
Kngland  at  the  same  prices  at  which  they  are  published  in  Germany  or  Fwmce. 

WILLIAMS  &  NORGATE 

have  published  thd  following  CATALOGUES  of  their  Stock  :— 

L  CLASSIOAIi  OATALOaUE. 

2.  THEOLOGICAL    CATA- 

LOOX7E. 

3.  FRENCH  OATAtiOCmE. 

4.  GERMAN  OATALOGtrE. 

6.  EXJROPEAN      LINaUISTIC 
CATALOGUE. 

6.  ORIENTAL    CATALOGUE. 


9.  SCIENTIPIC  CATALOGUE. 
Natural  History,  Chemistry,  Mathe- 
maticSy  Medicine,  &c. 

10.  SCHOOL  CATALOGUE.  Ele- 

mentary  Books,  Maps,  &c. 

11.  ART-CATALOGUE.  Art,Arohi- 

tecture.  Painting,  Illustrated  Books. 

12.  FOREIGN  BOOK  CIROU- 
LARS.  New  Books,  and  New 
Purchases. 


7.  ITALIAK  OATAI^OaUE.  »•  ^^'''Z^-f^^'i^^l 

8.  SPANISH    CATALOGUE.  Purchases. 

ANY  CATALOGITE  SENT  POST-FREE  FOR  ONE  STAMP. 

WILIjIAMS  &  NOitaATE,  Importers  of  Foreign  Books, 

14,  Henrietta  Street,  Covent  Garden,  London,  and 
20,  South  Frederick  Street,  Edinburgh. 


GENEVE. 


Hotel  Beau  Rivage  et  Angleterre. 

Kept  by  Messrs.  MAYER  and  KUNZ. 


THIS  splendid  Establishment,  just  oonstructed  on  a  gi-and  Scale,  lias  the  ad\'nn- 
tage  of  being 

TEE  HOST  PLEASAKTIY  SITtTATSB  HOTEL  IN  OSKEVA, 

ON  THE  QUAI  DU  MONT  BLANC, 

Near  the  English  Church,  the  Steamboat  Landing,  and  the  Railway  Station, 
suri'ounded  by  the  Jardin  des  Alps  and  delightful  Promenades. 

It  contains  130  well-funiished  Bed  and  Sitting  Rooms  in  every  variety,  and  has 
15  Balconies;  from  its  delightful  Terraces,  and  fmm  each  Window  of  the  Hotel, 
Mont  Blanc,  the  Lake,  the  new  Bridge,  and  the  Town  can  be  seen  in  their  iulle.-t 
extent. 

27te  Charges  are  Moderate^  and  a  reduced  price  for  a  protracted  stay. 

Pension  in  the  Winter  Months. 

Omnibus  to  and  from  the  Station  for  every  Train. 

TaBLE-D'HoTE   1,   5,   AND   8  O'CI.OGK. 

d 


84 


MUKHAV'8  HANDBOOK  ADVJEHTISER. 


May, 


t 

it' 


NOTICE 


Tourist's  &  Passport  Agency, 

8,  ROYAL  EXCHANGE,  LONDON,  E.G. 

MESSRS.  LETTS  undertake  to  supplir 
Intending  Travellers  either  tibrougn 
thi3  or  Foreign  Countries  with  every  informa- 
tion that  can  be  of  service  to  them  on  their 
route— relative  to  times  and  means  of  Convey- 
ance, Couriers,  Currency,  &c.— ^nd  to  provide 
PASSPORTS  with  the  ?equisite  visds  with 
the  utmost  promptitude  and  regard  t9  eco- 
nomy. TIcAVELLEES  to  INDIA  or 
the  GONnNEKT  may  be  provided  with 
the  Xewest  Editions  of 

ENQUSH,  FRENCH,  AND  QEHMAN 
GUIDE  BOOKS, 

as  well  as  the  most  approved  selection  of 
Maps,  both  English  and  ForeJp:n  («ee  separata 
ListV    and    with    Polyglot  Washing-Books, 
Books  of  Travel-Talk,  and  Dictionaries. 
Ti'ustworthy  Couriers  nnll  be  recommended 
by  giving  sufficient  notice. 

&BTTS,  BOW,  4k  CO., 

8,  BOYAL  EXCHANGE.  LONDON,  E.C., 

Stationers,  Travelling  Desk  Manufacturers, 
Lithographers,  and  Agents  to  H.M.  Board  of 
Ordnance  aoi)  the  Geological  Society. 


DUSSELDORf^ 

ON  THE   BHIXp.  . 


Mahlkb  Bbdthkbs  k  Co.,  1,  Mincing  lime, 
London,  most  respectfully  beg  to  draw  the 
attention  of  the  Enslisu  Nobility  and  Akki> 
TRY  to  Mr.  ALFRED  .TACOBl'S  well-aasorted 
depCt of realBnie  :  ~      " 

iiiiiii  mmm 

OF  CHOICE  BBAJfDS 

(Imported  via  Ix>ndon  Docks  direct  from  Ha« 
vanna),  at  reasonable  prices.  Orders  tof  ail 
parts  of  Germany  {M-oinpU^  executed. 


Mr.  ALFBED  JACOBI, 

Dt^eSELDOBF, 

19,  SIiISABSTHBH-STBASSS, 

Close  to  the  RaUux^  Staiipnt, 


PARIS, 

UNIVERSAL     EXHIBITION. 

WS.  KIRKLAND  and  CO.,  English  Commission  Agents, 
•  21,  Rue  de  Richelieu,  Gallery  VII. — English  Houses  represented  in  Paris.  Com- 
missions executed  for  all  kinds  of  Engli(«h  articles.  Patterns  and  Samples  supplied.  Regular 
fixed  despatches  twiee  a  week  from  London,  ensuring  certain  and  rapid  delivery  of  all  articles 
demanded.    Weekly  from  New  York.    London  Office,  23.  SAWSBuaT  StBE^,  ^tkakd. 

FRANKFORT  O.  M. 


MR.    C.    A.    LOHR, 

PBOPBIBTOR  OF 

77HE   BOMAir   BMFEBOB   HOOISIi,: 

Begs  to  recommeod  bis  Hou8«  to  English  Trftvellens. 

This  large  and  well-situated  Establishment  is  conducted  under  the  Immediate 
superintendence  of  the  Proprietor,  and  newly  furnished  with  every  comfort,  and 
a  now  splendid  Dining-room. 

The  "  Roman  Emperor"  is  often  honoured  by  Royal  Families  and  other  high 
parsonages.     The  following  have  lately  honoured  this  Hotel — 

H.M.  THE  KING  AND  QUEEN  OF  WURTEMBERO. 

H.M.  THE  QUEKN  OF  HOLLAND. 

H.R.H.  THE  CROWN  PRINCE  AND  PRINCESS  OLGA  OF  WURTEMBFJiG. 

H.I.H.  THE  ARCHDUKE  0^  AUSTRIA,    ftc.  Ac.  &c» 

Table-d'hftte  at  1,    Ifl.   30kr.  Breakfast,  ftftkr* 

H        >•         f>'     211*  'ieat   ftakr» 

Bed  Hooros,  from  l^fl,  to  Sfl* 


1867.  MTORArS  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER,  35 


THE  CONTINENT, 


qouriebs  and  tbavexxxng  sxryahts  of 

dutjsbent  nations. 


Society  of  Coiuiors  and  Trayelling 

Servants. 

ESTABUSHEP  13  Ti:ab8. 

Patronised  by  the  Boyal  Family,  Nobility,  and  Gentry* 
12,  BURY  STBEET,  ST.  JAMES'S. 


This  Society  is  composed  of  Members  of  diflferent  Nations, 
all  of  well-established  repntatipft,  great  experience,  efficiency, 
and  respectability. 

Ponriers  pnitable  for  any  oonntry  can  be  obtained. 

Italians,  Germans,  Swiss,  French,  and  Men  of  other 
Nations,  compose  this  Society;  some,  of  whom,  besides  the 
nsnally  required  languages,  speak  Spanish,  Russian,  Swedish, 
Turkish,  and  Arabic, — in  fact,  every  Continental  and  European 
language. 

Travellers  for  any  part  can  immediately  meet  witK 
Cquriers  and  Travelling  Servants  on  application  to  the 
Seqretary. 

COURIERS  AND  TRAVELLING  SERVANTS  OF  DIFFERENT  NATIONS, 

12,  BURY  STREET,  ST.  JAMES'S. 

D  8 


36  MUKRAVS  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER.  Maj, 

MILAN. 


HOTEL  GRANDE  BBETAGNA, 

VIA  TOBnrO,  Ho.  45. 

Ne«r  the  Cathedral,  in  the  centre  of  the  Citj. 

This  old-established  Hotel,  mncli  improyed  of  late,  is  dean,  (xnaf<vtable»  and 
with  moderate  charges,  close  to  the  English  Church.  Newspapers  (*  The  Times  * 
and  '  Galfgnani '),  Table-d*b6te,  and  BaUis.    English  spoken. 

N.B.*-The  Omnibus  of  the  Hotel  is  always  in  attendance  at  the  Railway  Station. 


MILAN. 


HOTEL     ST,     MARC, 
5,  RUK   l>KIi  PKSCK. 

KEPT  BY  ALEX.  BAZZI  AND  SONS  (JOSEPH  AND  JEAN). 

THIS  Hotel  is  situated  close  by  the  Post,  the  Cathedral,  the 
English  Church,  the  Theatre,  and  Eoyal  Palace,  and  offers  every  acoaDunodation  and 
comfort  for  single  travellers  and  families.  Large  and  small  Apartments  and  single  Bed- 
rooms. Table-rt'Hote,  Private  Dinners,  and  a  la  CarU,  at  moderate  prices.  Keading-room 
supplied  with  Italian,  English,  French,  and  German  newspapers.  Arrangement  for  families 
can  be  made.  French,  English,  and  German  spoken.  Omnibus  at  the  Railway  Station 
belonging  to  the  Hotel.    Pension  in  Winter. 


GENOA. 


■4 


HOTEL  DES  QUATRE  MTIONS. 


OEVASCO  BROTHERS,  Proprietors, 

This  Hotel  can  be  strongly  recommended;  it  is  in  one  of  the  best 
situations  in  Genoa,  and  travellers  will  find  there  veiy  good  rooms, 
moderate  charges,  cleanness,  excellent  Table-d'hofe,  as  well  as  private 
service,  with  great  attention  and  civility ;  the  comfort  of  visitors  bein^- 
consulted. 


'^  'N  ^Vy^^>  r\r^r 


Emflish  apohen  ht/  tJte  PropHpior. 


1807.  MQiUlAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVEHTISEK.  87 


OPISN  Ist  APBIIi,  1867. 

LONDON  AND  PAKIS 

'     By  Oie  Aocderaied  Special  Express  Daily  Direet  Tidal  Service^ 

Vm  FOLKESTONE  and  BOULOGNE, 

THE  CHEAPEST,  QUICKEST,  AND  SHORTEST  BOUTE. 
A  Throu^  Night  Service  between  London  and  Paris^ 

ViA  FOLKESTONE  and  BOULOGNE. 
FwEtman  ofDepaxtwrt  (toAicftareva«'£a&fe),  tf}ioikihtQhoiot8erxiwUt  see  Tmt  BookandBiUs, 

Also  by  the  Mail  Trains  and  Packets  via  Dover  and  Calais 

in  10|  Hours. 

Six  COHmnBKTAL  SEBVIGES  DAILY  by  tlie  Short  Sea:aiid  Mail  Boates. 

The  Hall  Trains  of  this  Company,  conveying  by  special  appointment  the  Continental  MailSi 
mn  to  and  start  from  the  Mail-Packet  Side  on  the  Admiralty  Pier  at  Dover. 

To  avoid  Inoonvenieooe  fh)m  examination  en  route.  Passengers  should  be  careful  to  order 
the  registry  of  their  Ba^^ge  to  Charing  Cross  per  South-J^istem  Baalway. 

BausB  for  Througli  Tickets. 


LONDON    AND    PARIS    RETURN    TICKETS. 

FIBST  CLASS.  SECOND  CLASS. 

By  either  Boulogne  or  Calais £4    7    0 £3    7    0 

special  Through  Ticliets  by  Night  Sej^vices  at  reduced  fares,  as  foUoiM : 

VIUST  CLA^.    SECOXI>  CLASS.     THIBD  CLASS. 

Single  Tieket    •    •    •   40/-  30/-  W-  available  for    8  dayf 

Betnm  Ticket  ...    60/-  iO/-  30/-      »         „       14  days. 

BELGIUM,  GERMANY,  HOLLAND,  &c.  &c., 

By  the  appointed  Continental  Mail  Trains^ 
TOVm,  8Z8&VXCBS   BAZXi'S'. 

Leaving  Charino  Cross  and  London  Bridge  at  7-25  a.m.  and  8'30  p.m.  daily, 
viA  Dover  and  Calais,  and  7*25  a.m.  and  8*30  p.m.,  via  Ostend,  every  day  except 
Sunday. . ■ 

THROUGH  TICKETS  ISSUED  AND  BAGGAGE  REGISTERED 

(With  a  free  allowance  of  56  lbs.  each  Passenger). 

asm  FABCTEXS  EXPRESSES  convey  Parcels  to  nearly  all  Continentia 
Destinations,  at  through  Bates,  as  qnicldy  as  the  Mails. 

A  Keduced  and  Revised  Scale  of  Through  Bates  for  Parcels  and  Mbbchandise,  of  any 
weight,  between  Lokdon  and  Paris.  A  New  Through  Tariflf,  between  Loudon  and  Paris, 
for  Bullion  and  Value  Parcels ;  also.  Rates  for  Value  Parcels  between  London  and  Belgium. 

MERCHAICDI^IB  FORWARDED   TO   BOUJLQOIPVB. 

TBE    OTORLAND  AND  MAIL  ROOTE  TO  IXBU,  CBINA,  *c. 

^^^'^^ISTi'^T^™'''         C.  W.  EBORALL,  General  Mwiager. 


UUKKAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVliitTlSeK.  Mb;, 

FRANKFORT  O.   M. 
PBUE-ic  ys,  Ufa. 

AEMS 

IVER  ofthaOit^of 

MIUKFORT, 


Bt  I 

SPECIAL 
MEDAL  PEBHISSION. 

FEIEDEICH   BOHLER, 

Zeil  54  (next  door  to  tlie  Post-Offloe).  1 

MANUFACTORY    OF    STAQHORN.  ' 

FoBHirmiB  OF  every  dbscriptiou,  as  Bofas,  Chairs,  Table*,  &o. 
CaAMDEUERS,  Table  and  Hand  Candlesticks,  Shooting-tackle,  Inkstands, 

Eaper-kniTeg,  Penholders,  Seals,  Knives,  &c.     Riding-whips,  Cigar-casM  j 

and  Holders,  Pipes,  Match-boxes,  Forte-moanaies,  Card-casesj  Thermo- 

metere,  &c. 
Goblets,  Cahdlb-soreenb,  FrenaES  and  Gboups  of  Animals,  taeeuted  after 

Biedin^et',  USne,  and  ofhera. 
Bboooheb,  Bbacelets,  Earrings,  Shirt-pins,  Studs,  Buttons. 
St^  and  Deer  Heads  with  Antlers  attached  to  the  Skoll. 

CARVED  WOOD-WORK  (Vienschene).  j 

FoBNiTUEE  AND  I'iNcv  Odjects  of  cvorj  description. 
Orders  for  a  Complete  Set  or  for  any  quantity  of  FnaurroBB  will  be 


MURli^VS  HANDKOOK  ADVtHTiSlil;. 

FRANKFORT    O.    M. 


FRIEDEICH   BOHLER, 


pEBDin.E8(0nyiMESTAi.  Cr/icits)  of  every  description ,TascB,  Goblets,  Antique 

and  Modem  Statncllos  and  Grotips  of  Animnis,  Inkatanda,  Paper-weightfl, 

&a.  Sic,  in  Bronze,  Cast  Iron,  Galvaao-plastio,  &e. 
UBOWB-CHAsmiLrEBB;  BiiAiTCH,  Table,  akd  Uahd  Oakclestickb,  in  Bronze, 

ftc.  {  Lamps  of  every  description. 
ViBKSA  Bbok/e,  Mabohetrt,  Leatheii,  ano  Meegkchahh  Articles. 
PoBCELAJK  AND  SitlTANiJiA-itBTAL  Goflus,  Liqueur-ohests,  &<:. 
iTaATBLLTNG  Dreksiko-casbs  and  Baob,  Railroad  OompanionB,  Piobio-loskets, 

every  kind  of  Leather  Goods  and  Articles  of  Taste  and  Use  for 

Trateli.bbs. 
Fascy  Objects  of  the  greatest  variety  and  beauty ;  Albums,  Boxes,  PanSj 

Smelling-bottles,  Opera  nnd  KaccGlasses,  &c,  &c. 
Superior  Copies  oftbe  Abiadke  by  Dannecker,  and  the  Amazon  by  Kias, 
Gamine  Eau  de  Coloosb  of  Jean  Marie  Farina,  opposite  the  Jiilichsplatz, 


40  MUlillAY'S  HAJS'DliOOK  ADVlUTISEK.  May, 

MARIENBERG. 
HYDRO  PATH  I  (TTsTAB  LIS  HMENT, 

KEAB  BOPPARD.  ON  THE  RHINB. 

THIS  Establishment  is  in  the  immediate  neighbourhood  of 
the  Rbenisb  Railway  SUtfons  and  Laodinqf  Places  of  the  Rhine  Steamers,  aod  is  placed 
in  the  most  delightful  and  smiling  8i tuition  In  the  whole  of  the  Rhenish  Provinces. 

It  is  very  close  to  Cublentz,  HIma,  and  Wiesbaden;  and  it  has  been  known  dtiriBg  the  last 
28  years  as  one  of  the  first,  most  elegant,  and  largest  Establishments  for  Cold- Water  Cure. 
Long  experience,  extraordinary  results,  charming  arrangements  and  luxury,  and,  above  all.  tbe 
advantage  of  incomparable  Water,  has  procured  for  ihls  Kstablishment  an  European  renowD. 

It  is  especially  visited  by  the  Nobility  of  oil  countries,  who  seek  this  pleasant  spot  to 
re-establish  or  strengthen  their  failing  health,  or  to  while  away  most  agreeably  tbe  summer 
bcasou. 


DRESDEN. 


HOTEL   DE    SAXE. 

THIS  celebrated  First-class  Hotel,  kept  by  Mrs.  DOKN  and 
her  SONS,  has  been  recently  enlarged  and  embellished,  contains  250  Front 
Kooms,  with  200  Beds,  and  is  situated  in  the  centre  of  the  town.  Tablc-d'Hote, 
best  in  town.  Baths.  Private  Dinnei-s  at  any  hour.  Arrnngements  for  the 
winter. 


LAUSANNE. 

H6tel  Gibbon :  Mr.  Bitter;  Proprietor. 
'I'^HTS    First-class    Hotel,    highly    recommended  in  every 

"^  respect,  is  situated  in  the  best  part  of  the  town,  and  commands  the  finest 
and  most  extensive  views  of  the  Lake,  the  Alps,  and  the  splendid  scenery  around 
Lausanne.  I'he  tcn-aced  garden  adjoining  the  saile-i -manger  is  unsuipassed  by 
any  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  was  the  favom*ite  residence  of  Gibbon,  who  wrote 
here  his  History  of  Rome.  From  the  extensive  Garden,  which  is  tastefully  laid  oat 
and  attached  to  the  Hotel,  the  view  is  most  grand  and  romantic.  In  fact,  this 
house  will  be  found  to  give  very  superior  accommodation,  and  to  offer  to  trarellei's 
a  highly  desirable  place  of  residence  or  of  temporary  sojourn. 

Pennon  at  Beduced  Prices  daring  the  Winter. 

Hotel  Richemont, 

THE   SAME  PUOPRIETOR  AS  THE  tA.BOVK  HOTEL. 

This  Hoi  el  is  of  the  tirst  order,  and  situated  in  the  most  beautiful  position  iji 
the  Environs  of  LACSAX^'E,  sun-ounded  by  gai-dens  and  promenrrJcf,  from  whence 
A  mo.>t  beantitul  view  of  tlie  LaKt;  aiiU  the  Alp.-  am  bo  liivl. 


UUitKAV^  IIAXDUOOK  ALtVEKTltiLli. 


DIEPPE. 


GRAND   HOTEL  IMPERIAL 

DE  DIEPPE, 

Oharmingly  situated  on  the  Beach, 


IT  18  THE  NEAKE8T  HOTEL  TO  THE  ENGLISH  STEAMERS  ; 

OF  THE  HIGHEST  CLASS  FOB  COMFOKT  AND 

CMNVENIENCE; 

BPECIALLY  DISTINGUISHED  BY  THE  EMPEROBS 

AUTHORITY   TO   BEAR   THE   TITLE   OF  "IMPERIAL," 

AND  BY  THE  EMPEROR'S  ARMS. 


SPECIAL   TERMS  WITH  FAMILIES, 


PRIVATE  CAEHUGES  KELONGING  TO  THE  HOTEL. 

nu  CelUr  oontaiiu  tmj  Old  Wlnw,  uid  alio  WiUM  of  Fint  Qulity, 

of  tho  Bait  Vintagw. 


iDclusive  Terms  for  the  Winter  Months  (November  till  June), 
6s,  6rf.  per  day ;  Children  and  Serrftnta  Half-price 

PRIVATE    SITTING-ROOMS    FOR     FAMILIES. 


42  >[UKBAY'S  HANDBOOK  AOV£RTlS£fi.  Uaj, 


PENZANCE,    CORNWALL.. 

MOUNT'S  BAY  HOUSE, 

(ADJOINnia  THE  Qdeen'8  Hoiel,) 

ESPLANADE,  PENZANCE,  CORNWALL, 

Has  been  erected  and  fitted  up  expressly  as  a 
SEASIDE 

FAMILY  HOTEL  &  FIRST-OLASS  LODGINa-HOUSE. 


•  ^^v»\/\r^/^•»  -v*v^t 


NO  expense  or  labour  has  been  spared  by  the  Proprietor. 
The  house  is  turaished  in  the  most  modem  style,  is  well  supplied  with  Hot 
and  Cold  Bathsy  and  replete  with  every  accommocbtion  suitable  for  Toutists  to 
West  Oomwall.  • 

All  the  Drawing  Rooms  command  an  uninterrupted  and  uusurpassfed  view  of  tliat 

'  Beauteous  gem  set  in  the  silver  sea/ 
JSt.  Michael's  Mount,  and  the  whole  of  the  magnificent  Bay. 

Invalids  will  find  in  Mount's  Bay  House  the  comforts  of  a  home,  while  the 
beauty  and  salubrity  of  the  situation,  and  its  nearness  to  the  chaiming  walks  on 
the  sea-shorej  itnder  it  a  healthy  and  delightful  residence. 
Suites  of  apartments  for  families  of  distinction. 

E.    LAVIN,   PROPRIETOK. 


VIOHY-LES-BAINSi 


-<s- 


GRAND   HOTEL   DU   PAHC, 

Pboprietor,    me.    GEEMOT, 
Opposite  the  Baths  and  the  Park. 

AS  in  Paris  and  London,  Vichy  has  its  Grand  Hotel.     The  Grand  Hotel  du  Pare. 
of  Vichy,  for  comfort,  elegance,  and  convenience,  is  eqiial  to  any  of  the  large 
Hotels  of  Paris  or  London.     Omnibus  and  Carriages  at  the  Station. 

Separate  Suites  of  Apartments  for  Families. 

DIEPPE. 

HOTEL    DES    BAINS 

(MORGAN), 

FACING-  tbe  Sea  and  Baths,  of  tbe  Highest  Class,  quiet, 
thoroughly  recommenddble.  A  large  private  Hoose  afeo  6h  iH«  beach  for  Families. 

__  ViesbTd¥S~ 

HOTEL  D'ANGLETERRE ;  Proprietor,  Jos.  Berthold  ;  near  the 
Promenfwle  tmd  Koefabrttmien.  Mineral  Water  Baths  snpplied  by  the  Kodibrtinrien ;  laife  irnd  Binall 
Apartments  for  Families,  and  tgcoellent  Bodrnonis  for  single  Geutienien.  This  House  haa  been  known  for  nuuiy 
years  among  the  ^t7«  of  English  Vlmtors  to  Wioabnden,  and  it  in  still  (xniducted  in  Ita  Ancioni  fttyle  of  comfort 
and  elcfr«nce.  Ilijihly  reoomuiendcd  by  the  author  of  tlio  •  lUibblcs  from  tlio  Bninnens  of  Nassau'  and  Murray's 
Uaudbook.  Fiice  very  modcrato.  Aftor  the  ecoson.  Ai)ai-tmvuls  oit)  lot  iu  thia  Uutel  ou  tho  uamo  terms  as 
private  upartmeuta  in  tho  towa. 


1867.  M(7KRA.rS  HANDBOOK  AOVKKTISER.  48 

DIEPPE; 

H^TElTeO  t  AL. 

FACING    THE    BEACH. 

Close  to  the  Bathing  EstaDlishment  and  the  i^arade. 

IT  IS  ONE  OF  THE  MOST  PLEASANTLY  SITUATED  HOTELS 
X  IN  DIEPPE,  commanding  a,  beautifbl  ftiid  extensive  View  of  the 
Sea. 

Families  and  Gentlemen  visiting  Dieppe  will  find  at  this  Establish- 
ment elegant  Large  and  Small  Apartm^its,  and  the  best  of  accommo- 
dation, at  very  reasonable  prices. 

The  Befreshments,  &c.,  are  of  the  best  quality. 

In  fact,  this  Hotel  fully  bears  out  and  deserves  the  favourable  opinion 
expressed  of  it  in  Murray's  and  other  Guide  Bo6k8* 

■Tahle-d'Eote  and  Private  Dinners, 


PASSAGE    OF    MONT    OENIS. 

SUSA  TO  ST.  MIOBHIi 

(and  vice  versd). 

MR  JOSEPH  BOKGO. 


Carriages  can  be  obtained  for  the  crossing  of  Mont  C^nis,  from  Susa , 
to  Sti  Michel,  ot  vice  versd,  on  application  to  Mr.  Joseph  BoRGO  at 

TURIN— Grand  Hotel  de  I'Europe. 

SUSA— Hdtel  de  France. 

ST.  MICHEL— Railway  Station  and  Hotel  de  la  Poste. 

Carriages  of  all  kinds,  to  hold  2,  4,  5,  and  7  persons. 

Travellers  wlQ  find  this  the  modt  colnfortable  and  least  fatiguing 
way  of  crossing  this  mountain,  the  pass^e  being  made  m  the  same 
time.aa  by  the  CoUBiBBi 

♦^*  TravdUrs  will  always  find  at  tlia  Station  of  iSt.  Michel  an  Agent  of 
Mb.  Borgo,  on  arrkal  of  the  train. 


44  MUKHAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVKKTISEl!.  Way, 

VENICE. 

GRAND   HOTEL  VICTORIA. 

Host  oentraUy  situated,  clone  to  the  Piazza  S.  MAXtco  (without  crossing  a^gle  Bridge), 

the  prindparXbeatres  and  Churches. 

The  HOTEL  VICTORIA,  entirely  rebuilt  and  improved,  contains  180  Bedrooms,  large  and 
small  Apartments,  fUmished  with  every  modem  requisite,  beautiful  public  Sitting  Rooms, 
Smoking  and  Billiard  Booms,  Tal^l&4'H6te,  Baths. 

Charges  oon»iderai>ly  more  moderate  than  in  any  other  Jirtt-rate  Estdblish'ment. 

&OBBKT   STKBirSBB&OBR. 


MILAN. 


■— ♦- 


KEPOSITOEY  OF  FINE  AETS  AND  ANTIQUITIES. 

(English  ^geittg  for  Special  aitir  (Stmxnl  Information. 
HOTEL   AOOOMMODATION   OE  PEIVATE   APAETMEHTS 

Secured  for  Families, 
Mb.  C.  MANINIj  10,  Corsia  del  GiARDmo,  Milan. 


ANTWERP. 

GBAHD  IHTEBMATIOMAL  ALLIANCE  HOTEL  C0MPAH7 

(LIMITED). 

h6tEL    ST.    ANTOINE, 

PLACE    VERTE. 


•"^"^^■w",    y~\,'-^  s^-i^'^ 


THIS  FIEST-CLASS  HOTEL,  po  weU  known  to  TEA- 
VELLERS,  having  become  the  property  of  the  above  Company,  has  been 
thoroughly  improved  and  modernised.  Baths  have  been  erected,  and  a  Restamtint 
established. 

The  extensive  assortment  of  WIKES,  many  of  which  are  of  gi'eat  age,  were 
selected  with  great  care  and  judgment  by  tlie  late  Pmprietor,  Mr.  Schmitt- 
Spaemhoven,  and  have  obtained  for  this  Hotel  an  European  reputation. 

A  Superior  Cuisine  and  Table  d'Hote. 

Carriages  of  every  description, — Attentive  Servants, 

Keading  Boom  and  Smoking  Boom,  supplied  with  BngUih  and  Emnoh 

Kewspapers. 


1867.  MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER.  45 


HB.  XOHIEB,  PBOPBISTOB. 

lliis  firsUrata  Hotel,  mneh  ft«q«entod  by  Famtltes  and  Gentlemeil.  sitiuted  la  tlie  fiMit 
part  of  the  town,  near  the  Railway  Station  and  Promenade,  la  replete  with  every  oomfbrt: 
the  apartments  are  taatetuQy  and  elegantly  fnmlahed.  It  Is  celebrated  for  its  oleanUneas, 
good  attendance,  and  reasonable  prices.  Saloons,  Reading,  and  Refreshment  Rooms ;  Table 
d'Hdte  at  l  and  5  o'dock ;  Breakfasts  and  Dinners  at  all  hoars.  Advantageous  arrangements 
made  with  Families  daring  the  Winter  Season.  In  tmat  of  the  Hotel  there  Is  a  fine  extensive 
pirden  and  large  oourt*yanl.  Baths  and  carriages  in  the  Hotel,  (hnnibnees  and  carriages 
belonging  to  the  Hotel  convey  nassengers  to  and  trom  the  Railway  Btetion.  Eni^lsh,  French, 
Italian,  and  Geiman  apoken.    Moderate  prieea. 

MILAN. 


Hotel    Oavoixr,    Flace    Cavonr, 

opposite  the  Public  Gardens. 
SEPT    BT   J.    STTABBI   ABB    GO. 

This  new  and  magnlftcent  Esteblishment  is  fitted  up  with  every  modem  appliance,  and 
situated  In  the  finest  and  most  pleasant  part  of  the  City,  close  to  the  SUtion,  the  Grand 
Theatre,  the  National  Museum,  and  the  Ph)tf>stant  Church.  The  interior  is  perftet,  and  com- 
prises Baths  on  each  floor,  a  Smoking  and  a  Reading  Room  supplied  with  foreign  newspapers. 
Excellent  Table^'Hdte.    Chaises  very  moderate  and  affixed  in  eoch  room. 

Omnibus  of  the  Hotel  at  the  arrival  of  all  trains. 

Hanai^r— O.  VAILBTTA. 


DIJON. 


HOTEL      OXJ      FAHC. 

PBOraiETOBS— BIPABB  BB0THEB8. 

Ila^  been  newly  Furnished,  and  entirely  Refitted  thivugltovt. 

SITUATED  IX  THE  CENTRE  OF  THE  TOWN. 

LARGE  AND  SHALL  APAEtTMENTS.  GARDEN  BEHIND  THE  HOTEL. 

TaUe-d'Hote  at  10  sjn.  and  6  p.m. 

CARRIAGES    FOR    DRIVES    IN    THE    TOWN    OR    COUNTRY. 

y.B.—Askfor  tlie  Omnibm  of  the  Hotel  on  the  arnval  of  the  Ti'axrt. 

VIENNA. 


lEOFOLBSTABT. 

Contains  Two  Hundred  richly  fnmished  Apartments,  varying  in  price  from  50  Kreutzers  t« 
6  Flurlu8,  together  wiib  CuCfee,  BilMard,  and  6inuklng  Koums;  al«u  Saloons  Tor  Heading  and 
Recreation,  provided  wltu  all  the  betit  Journals  of  Knglandi,  Germany,  and  Pnince.  Post 
0£Bce,  Government  Telegraph  OOioe,  and  Photographic  Studio  on  the  l^remlsps.  Reataurant 
(»  la  carte,  at  fixed  prices  at  uU  hours.  Klfgant  carriages  always  ready  for  the  convenience 
of  travellen},  and  Omnib^iaes  oonstaiitly  running  to  the  Railway  Stations.  This  Hotel,  the 
largest  in  Vienna,  oflfers  the  most  desirable  advantages  to  travellers,  as,  tnespectiveof  its 
cxcoUont  accommodation,  it  la  situated  in  the  most  pleasant  and  finest  part  of  the  town. 

Iflnnnarrra  and  Propriclony  Ifluch  nn<i  ITrayei*. 


46  lllJKRi.T'6  UANMOOE  ADVERTISER.  Hay, 


ANTWERP. 


HOTEL  DU  GRAND  LABOUREUR, 

PLACE  DE  MEIR,  26. 

THIS  old-established  andhigUy-recommended  Hotel,  which 
has  been  considei-abl  j  enkrged,  is  situated  in  the  finest  and  healthiest  square 
of  t))e  city  (^  Xv^erp;  its  deanliness  and  the  excellency  ot  the  table-d'hote  and 
wines,  added  to  the  attention  and  civility  shown  to  all  visitors,  have  made  it 
deservedly  popular,  ' 

HOT  4in>  GOLD  BATHS. 

ENGLISH   AND    FRENCH  NEWSPAPERS. 

WILDBAD. 

* 

{Five  Leagues  from  Pforzheim^) 

H6tel  Klumpp,  formerly  Hotel  de  I'Ours, 

Mb.  W.  KLTJMPP,  Peoimbtob. 


«/vy  v^v/vy*\  ^.  r  V  ■     -  .•<  -Ky>v%^ 


THIS  Pirst-class  Hotel,  containing  36  Salons,  and  170  Bed- 
rooms, with  a  separate  Breakfast  and  Heading  Boom,  as  well  as  a  very 
extensive  and  elegant  Dining  Room»  Artificial  Garden  over  the  River,  is  situated 
opposite  the  Bath  and  Conversation  House,  and  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the 
Pronieiiade.  It  is  celebrated  for  its  elegant  and  comfortable  apartments,  good 
cuii^ine  and  cellar,  ^nd  deserves  its  wide*spread  reputation  ai6  an'excptlei^  YioleU 
Tahle-d'hute  at  One  and  Five  o'clock.     Breakfasts  ^d  Suppers  2k  la  carte. 

EXCHAlfGS    OFFICB. 

CoiTespondent  of  the  principal  Banking-houses  of  London  for  the  payment  of 
Circular  Notes  and  Letters  of  Credit.  During  the  season  it  is  the  office  of  the 
Diligence  to  Pforzheim  Station  of  the  Baden  Railway,  which  leaves  Wildbad  for 
the  Courrier  and  Express  Trains,  and  retums  from  Pforzheim  afler  the  arrival  of 
these  trains.  Througli  Tickets  issued,  and  Baggage  Registei-ed,  to  and  from  nost 
of  the  principal  towns, 


."J 


I 


■■i. 

I 

1867.  ilUEBAir'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISISK.  47  ' 


P    A    R    I    S. 


HOTEL  DES  DEUX  lONDES 
ET  D'MGLETEEBE, 

8,  BUE  D'ANTIH, 

Near  tke  Tii|lerie«f  Place  Tendome,  i|]i4  the  ^onleyardlst 


Thi8  magnificent  first-clafis  Hotel,  recently  constmoted  and 
elegaiitly  furnished  in  the  newest  and  most  fashionable  fitjle, 
surrounded  by  gardens,  justifies  the  preference  accorded  tQ  it 
by  Families  and  Gentlemen  lor  the  splendour  and  comfort  of 
its  Apartments,  its  excellent  Cumne,  and  the  care  and  atten- 
tion shown  to  all  who  honour  the  Hotel  with  their  patronage. 

LARGE  AND  ^H^ALI.  APA^XMEVT^,  A9P  ^NGLE 
BOOMS,  AT  MODERATE  CHARGES. 


•      < 


PRIVATE   RESTAIJBAJVT. 

SPLENDID  COFFEE-ROOMS.  8AIQ0N6,   READINO  ANP 

SMOKINB  ROOMS. 

HORSES,  ELEGAKT  CABBUGES,  OMNIBUSES 

FOB  THK  BAttWAYS. 


48  MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER.  May, 

PBEIBUBQ  in  Bresgan,  Duchy  of  Baden. 

HdTEL    SOMMEB,  Zahringer  Hof, 

Newly  built,  oppo&ite  the  Station;  finest  view  of  the  Black  Forest  and  the 
Vosges  ;  most  oomfoi'table  and  best  house  there.     Baths  in  the  Hotel. 

Proprietor,  Mr.  ,G.  H.  SOMMER. 


AMSTERDAM. 

BRACK'S  DOELEN  HOTEL— Situated  in  the  Centre  of  the  Town, 
and  most  convenient  for  Visitors,  on  pleasure  or  busin^^ss.  It  commands  a  splendid  view 
of  the  Quays,  &;c.;  and,  being  conducted  on  a  liberal  scale,  It  is  patronised  by  the  highest 
classes  of  society  in  Holland.  It  is  also  much  flequented  by  Kngli>h  Travellers  for  the  com- 
fort and  first-rate  acconmiodation  it  affords,  as  well  as  for  the  invariable  civility  shown  to 
visitors.  Cold  and  warm  baths  may  be  had  at  any  hour. — Carriages  for  hire.— TaUe  d'HOte 
at  half-past  4,  or  dinner  k  la  carte. 

BADEN-BADEN. 
Hotel  de  Hollande :  Proprietor^  A.  Roessler. 

nPHIS  favourite  and  first-class  Hotel,  situated  near  the  Kursaal,  Pro- 

-^  menade,  and  Theatre,  commandii  one  of  the  moat  charming  views  In  Badan.  Hba  incieaea  of  bnstnewi 
rflndertnor  it  neoesaary  to  enlarge  the  Hotel,  it  now  oonsistB  of  more  than  a  hundred  ■leaping  apartaaenta, 
Alegant  altting-rooms.  and  a  garden  for  the  nae  of  visitors.  Comfortable  Pnblio  Sitting  Booms.  It  b  ooo- 
dtictfid  under  the  Immediate  superintendence  of  the  Pruprielor,  who  endeavoms,  bf  the  moat  strict  attantlon 
and  exceedingly  moderate  prires,  to  merit  the  continued  patronage  of  KngHsh  Tisitors.  *  The  Times '  and 
other  Journals.  The  Wines  of  this  Hotel  are  reputed  of  the  best  quality  in  Baden.  Pixad  moderate  obmrgM 
tea  everything. 

Breakfast,  Caf^.  S6  kreutxers ;  Tea.  42  kn.    Table  d'HCte  at  One,  1  fl.  M  kr. :  at  Tivt^  1  fl.  48  kr. 

Vr.  ArovsTXTS,  remaining  sole  Proprietor,  will  spare  no  pains  to  deserve  the  qoniklgnBB  of  KqgUsk  TkaraeBerB. 
English  is  spoken. 

Open  dvrtec  the  Wtetor. 


BIARRITZ. 

HdTEL   DE    FRANCE, 

And  the  magnificent  Maison  Garderes. 

Pbopbietob,  Ma.  GARDEHES. 
npHESE    two    first -clafls    Establishments    are    delightfully 

"^  situated  on  the  Beacbi  in  front  of  the  Imperial  Ch&teeu,  the  Baths,  and  in 
the  centre  of  the  Proraenades.  They  are  furnished  in  a  most  superior  style,  with 
every  comfort  and  convenience  that  can  be  desired  by  English  or  American  Tra^ 
vellei-s.    Moderate  charges.    The  Proprietor  speaks  English. 

CarrUftes  fiir  Exennionil  in  the  Pyreneet  and  Spain. 

Table-d'Hote.     *  Tlie  Times '  newspaper. 


1867.  MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTIStlR.  49 


TURIN. 

GRAND  HOTEL  DE  UEUROPL 

PROPRIETORS— 

MESSES.   BOMTTI  AND    OASALEaGIO. 

Situated^  Place  da  Chateau,  opposite  the 

King's  Palace. 


THIS  unriyalled  and  admirably  conducted  Hotel 
baft  been  entirely  refurnished  to  afford  great  comfort, 
and  in  the  very  best  taste,  and  thus  peculiarly  recommends 
itself  to  the  notice  of  English  travellers, 

EXCEU^NT  TABLE  D'HOTE,  at  &i  o'clock. 

Without  Wine,  4  fr. ;  Dinner  in  Apartments,  6  fr. ;  Breakfast, 

with  Tea  or  CofEee  and  Eggs,  2  tr. 


REDUCED  TERMS  FOR  A  LENGTHENED  STAT. 

Interpreters  Speaking  aU  tbe  European  Languages. 

OHABQSS    MOBSBATB. 


An  Omnibus  from  thd  Hotel  will  be  found  at  every 


E 


no  MUKIJAV'S  HANDBOOK  AUVEU'I'ISEK.  May, 

London  and  South-Westem  Railway. 

LONDON  STATION,  WATERLOO  BRIDGE. 

The  Cheap  and  Fietnreaqne  BoUto  to 

PABIS,  ROUEN,  HONFLEUR,  AND  CAEN, 

Vid  SOUTHAMPTON  and  HA  VRE. 

I 

■     Erery  Monday,  Wednesday,  ind  Friday,  the  last  Train  froA  London  at  9  p.m.  • 

Fares  throughoid  (London  and  Parts)— Fibst  Class,  28/0 »  Segovd  Glass,  20/0- 
Return  TickeU  (available  for  one  month)— Fntsr  Class,  50/0 ;  Second  Glass,  36/0- 

Additional  Sailings  afttr  lit  June, 

JERSEY,  GUERNSEY,  AND  ST.  MALO, 

MAIL  aSBVICS, 

Vid   SOUTHAMPTON^The  favourite  Route. 
Every  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday. 

Fartz  thi-oughout  (lx)ndon  and  Jersey  or  Guernsey)— 31/0  First  ;  21/0  Sbcoxd  Class. 
Return  Ticfcets  (available  for  One  Month)— 4S/0  Fibst  ;  or  35/0  Second  Glass. 

The  Last  Train  from  London  in  time  for  the  Steamers  leaves  at  9  p.m. 

For  further  Information  apply  to  Mr.  De  Vonlle,  3,  Place  Venddme,  Paris.—- Mr.  Largstalf, 
47.  Grand  Qiiai,  Havr**. — Mr.  Knault,  Honfleur. — Mr.  E.  D.  I^  Couteur,  Jersey. — Mr. 
•Spaiiier,  GuemHt'y. — Captiiln  Gaudln,  St.  lyialo. — ^Or  to  Mr.  E.  K.  CoJtKB,  Steam  Packet 
•Superintendent,  Southampton. 

CONSTANTINOPLE. 

HOTEL    D'ANGLETERRE. 

JAMES  MISSIBIE,  Proprietor. 

THIS  long-established  and  well-known  Hotel,  situated  in  the 
GU.AND  HUK  OK  PICRA,  comnwnding  a  masrnificent  view  of  the  UNRI- 
VALLED BOSPHORUS.  is  i-eplete  with  every  comfort  and  convenience  for  the 
accommodation  of  Families  and  'i'ouri.sts. 

A  Select  Table  d'Hdte. 

In  conseq\ience  of  the  la-goly  incren.sinor  ntimbor  of  Visitors  to  the  OTTOMAN 
CAPITAL,  from  the  facility  with  which  it  can  now  be  reached  from  nil  parts  of 
Europe,  and  passengers  who  select  this  aiireeable  route  to  and  from  INDIA  and 
the  EAST,  it  is  requested  that  families  desirous  of  securing  rooms  telegraph  or 
write  in  anticipation.  Eveiy  attention  will  be  paid  to  instittctions  thus  trans- 
niitted. 

OAEETOXLY  SELECTED  INTEEPBETERS  POE  ALL 

:(.AN0irAG£S. 

Tk^  AH^nditntF.  and  Boats  of  the  Hotel  await  the  arrival  nf  the  Steamers, 


/' 


1867. 


MUKRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVJiKTlSBI?. 


51 


TO  CONTINENTAL  TRAVELLERS. 


DORRELL  &  SON'S 


16/  C&ABINO    CROSS/  S.W. 


Jivery  Hifonttation  given  respeeting  Trayelllng  on  fhe  Continent. 


Fmidi  and  Italiaa 
BRITI8H  SuBJBcra  visit- 
ing the  4>i|itinent  will 
save  trqable  «bd  expeose 
by  obtaining  their  Pasa* 
ports  tlurough  the  al)ove 
Agency.  No  personal 
attCDdanoe  is  required, 
and  Qountiy  residents 
may  have  their  Pass- 
ports forwarded  through 
the  post.  A  'Passfobi 
Pbcmpbutcs,'  containing 
every  particolar  in  de- 


tpoken,  and  CorrMpondence  carried  on  ia  «lfh«r  Laagugs. 

taU.  bypost^  on  applica- 
tion. 

Passports  Mounted, 
and  enclosed  in  Gases* 
with  the  name  of  the 
brarer  impressed  in  gold 
on  the  outside ;  thus  af- 
ferding  security  against 
injury  or  loss,  and  pre- 
venting delay  in  the 
frequent  examination  of 
the  PasqK>rt  when  tra- 
velling. 


Foe,  Obtaining  Passport,  Is.;  Vita*,  Is.  each*    Coms,  li.  6d.  to  M.  each. 


THE    LATEST    EDITIONS   OF    MURRAY'S    HANDBOOKS. 


Esglidi  and  foreign  Stationery*  Dialogue  Books,  Gonriers*  Sags,  Poeket* 
books  and  Purses  of  every  deseription,  TraveUIng  Inkstands,  and  a  va- 
ziety  of  other  Articles  nsefol  for  Travellers. 


EVf^T  SATUBDAY,  OF  ANY  BOOKSELLER  OR  NEWS  AGENT* 

FRIGS  THBSlEFEKCSi. 

JEach  ffcUf- Yearly  Volttme  complete  in  itself,  with  TUle-Page  and  Index » 

THE   ATHENJEUM 

JOURNAL    OF    ENGLISH    AND    FOREIGN    LITERATURE, 
SCIENCE,   AND  THE    FINE    ARTS. 

Contains  : — Revibwb  of  every  importsnt  New  Boel&— Reports  of  the  Learned 
Societies— Authentic  Accounts  of  Scientific  Voyages  and  Expeditions — 
FoEBtaN  CORB^POKDENCE  on  Subjects  relating  to  Literature,  Science,  and  Art 
— Cbiticisms  on  Art,  Music,  and  Draha — ^Biooraphical  Notices  of  dis- 
tingaished  Men — ORiaiNAL  Papers  and  Poems — Weekly  Gossip. 

THE  ATHEKJEUX  is  so  conducted  that  the  reader,  however  distant,  is,  in* 
respect  to  Literature,  Science,  and  Art,  on  an.  equality  in  point  of  information  with 
the  best-informed  circles  of  the  Metropolis. 

Subscription  for  Twelve  Months,  135.  j  Six  Months,  65.  6cf.  If  required  to  be 
sent  by  Post,  the  Postage  extra. 

Office  for  Advertiaementa^ 
20,  WELLINGTON  STREET,  STRAND,  LONDON,  W.C. 

'•        E  2 


52  MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERflSfiR.  May, 


SSTABZiISHED  18M. 


^^m     ■   I    ^ii^a 


THE   ORIGINAL    SOCIETY 


OF 


COURIERS  AND  TRAVELLING  SERVANTS, 

440,  WEST  STRAND, 

LONDON,  W.O. 


q^HB  NOBILITY  and  GENTRY  are  moei  refpeetftiUj  infonaei  that, 
deeply  impressed  witJi  fhe  fespo&sible  duties  derolving  tipon  CoQilers  and 
Travelliog  Servants,  a  limited  nmnber  of  respectable  EnglishmeD  and  Germans 
have  formed  themselves  into  a  Society,  to  which  u:^  Member  is  eligible  miless  of 
strict  int^rity,  goxnii  information,  eacperience,  and  goou  beharioiir  ia  previous 
engagements,  which  can  be  anthenticatBcl  bf  vefet^os  U  Employ^r^. 

At  the  same  time  they  beg  to  inform  the  Kobility,  Gentry,  and  Fa.^ilies  that 
experienced  Servants  of  the  above  ciaas;  of  the  highest  clua|ic1l9i^  ani  integrity,  may 
b«  engaged  at 

LEE  *  CARTER'S 


440,  WEST  STKANB,  W.C;, 

where  a  large  collection  of 

MURRAY^d     AND    OTHER     GUIDES, 

3MAPS,  DICTIONARIES,  DIALOGUES,  &c.,  IN  ALL  LAKGlTAOfiS, 

And  everything  leqintBl  by  Tfavdlers,  is  kfpt  in  great  variety, 

And    all    information    about    passports    can     be    OBtAINEO. 


1867.  MUBEArS  HANDBOOK  ADVBBTJSiS.  SS 


LVCERNfe. 


■♦o*- 


HAUSER  BROTHERS,  Propbietobs. 

Be9t  BftOAtiott  on  the  Quay,  with  spleiidid  view  of  the  oele« 
'brci'ted  panorama  of  the  Xiake  and  Mountains 

THE  high  reputatiou  which  this,  establishment  enjoys  among 
Trarellei'Sy  and  especially  En^sh  and  Amedcan  £uiuli6i,  is  the  best  and 
strongest  assonmce  of  its  superior  arrangement  told  comfbrt.  -  Its  new  immense 
Dining-Room,  with  adjoining  Garden,  Salon,  and  Iar|<e  Parlour,  attract  the  attention 
of  ererj  Visitor* 

l64M6d  FlrioM^fai^B}  are  xaadA  for  loayser  YmU  in  tiie  early  and  Mar 
parta  «f  titt  teafon. 


A 


HOMBOURG. 


HOTEL  VIOTOBIA,  close  to  the  Springs  and  the  Knrsaal,  is  one  of 
the  flnest  and  beat  otnated  Hotels.  The  Proprietor,  M.  GUSTAYi;  WEIGANA,  who  has  been  for 
nuuiT  yean  la  arst-dBm  Botels  in  Losden,.  oOem  to  EngUah  traTeUere  a  good  bovma,  with  every  eomfort. 
Excellent  TftUe^liAlb  wul  COod  WIim.  »t  awxleratB  4i«tgM.  &Miiee  BUJuV  V.i.  r- All  kinds  of  Wines 
are  exported  to  any  part  of  England,  particularly  bis  excellent  ^>arkling  Wines  (nioe  anid  dry,  which  are 
expressly  prepared  for  England),  called  Yiotoria  Opstkliins  Moselle  and  Hock. 

GENSVA. 

HOXKILi  TfEi  I^JL  001JBOiyi<CC:. 

Peotbietob,  0.  ALDINGEE. 

THIS  FIEST-OLASS  ESTABLISHMENT,  just  newly  far- 
nUfied  and  fitted  up  throughout,  offers  Travelltsrs  a  most  extensive  Tiew  of 
the  Lake  of  Geneva,  Mont  Blanc,  &c.,  from  its  position  at  the  head  of  the  magni- 
ficent new  bridge. 

Every  attention  paid  to  the  oomfort  and  wii^es  of  Families  and  Gentlemen* 
Active  attoidance,  good  cuisine  and  cellar.  Tables-d'Hdte  at  1,  5,  and  7  o'clock. 
English  and  ^knerksin  newspapers.    The  Omnibos  of  t)ie  Hotel  meetd  eviry  T^^ain. 


BRUSSELS. 

The  Establishment  of  MdUes.  0.  DE  TEStGNIES  ET  SCKURS,  successors  of  Mr.  YAS. 
1>%EK£L£N>BKESS0K,  No.  2«,  Roe  dee  Parvissiens,  dose  to  the;  Cathedral  of  St.  awfcrte, 
is  very  strongly  reeommoided. 


54  MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER.  May, 

VEVAY  (Switzerland). 

H  ^  T  E  X^      M  O  TV  TV  E  T, 

Dit  dee  3  Gouromies. 
Xesflri.  SCEOTT  ft  CO.,  ProprietorSi  and  Sooeefsort  to  Xr.  Honnet 

THIS  Large  and  First-olass  Establishment,  situated  close  to 
the  Lake,  affords  supeiior  accommodation  for  Families  and  Gentlemen.  It  is 
extensively  patronised  for  its  <»mfbrt  and  elomliness*  Persons  remaining  some 
time  will  find  this  a  most  desirable  Residence ;  and  from  October  15  to  June  1  they 
can  live  here  moderately ^np^nsKm.  Readinj^-room  well  supplied  wiUi  pf^pei's,  AU 
languages  spoken.  Salon  for  convei'sation  and  music.  Billiard  and  Smoking  Rooms. 


HOTEL   DES    TROIS    ROIS. 

Proprietor,  Mr.  WALD. 

THIS  ancient  and  justly-renowned  first-class  Establishment 
is  situated  on  the  Rhine,  and  comnuinds  an  extensive  view  of  the  Jura,  the 
Beach  Forest,  and  the  Vosges,  so  that  the  eye  may  with  one  glance  take  a  {leep  into 
Switzerland,  (jenmany,  and  France.  The  House  is  comfortable  in  every  respect- 
Reading  and  Smoking  Rooms  newly  ananged.  Warm  Baths.  Mr.  Wald  does  all 
in  his  power  to  render  the  sojourn  at  his  house,  as  pleasant  as  possible.  The 
Omnibuses  of  the  Hotel  are  always  in  attendance  at  the  Railway  Stations. 


LUQANO,   SWITZERLAND. 


■*o*- 


HOTEL  £T  BELYl^DERi:  DV  PARC. 

Kept  by  A.  BEHA. 

THIS  first-class  HOTEL  contains  ISO  Sleeping-Booms  and 
Saloons,  all  elegantly  furnished ;  "  Snlons  de  reunion ;  an  English  chapel ;  and 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  Gardens  in  the  country.  The  Hotel  is  very  agi-eeably 
situated  for  the  two  seasons.  During  the  winter  the  H«U  and  landings  ai'e  warmed. 
Great  improvements  have  been  made  since  last  year,  by  the  addition  of  new  Public 
Rooms,  and  numerous  Apartments  for  Families,  with  every  comfort  desirable. 


BAOEN-BAOEN. 
V  I  O  T  O  H  I  AH  O  T  EL. 

FroprletoTi  Vx,  FBAJET;;  aHOSHOLZ. 

THIS  is  one  of  the  finest  built  and  best  furnished  First-class 
:  Hotels,  situated  on  the  new  Promenade,  niear  ihe  Kursaal  and  Theati%  ;  it 
commands  the  most  chai-ming  views  in  Baden.  It  is  reputed  to  be  one  of  the  best 
Hotels  in  Germany.  The  Table  and  Wines  are  excellent,  with  prompt  attendance 
and  gieat  civility.     Prices  very  moderate.     English  and  other  Journals. 


1«|J7.  MUURAy'3  HANDBOOK  ADVHKTISBIl.  .N5 


I  RE  LA  N  O. 

•  01 


,ajvtiiim:  knives  hotel, 

PORTBUSH. 

THIS  Hotel  is  beautifully  situated,  having  an  uninterrupted 
vi«w  of  Uie  Atlastio  Ocbaw«  the  Giakt'j)  Oausswjct,  tbe  SKBB^[£E^  and  Lough  Fotlk. 

It  contains  upwards  of  100  Apartments^ 

Frinclpally  facing  tbe  Sea. 

A   NOBi-E   COFFEE-ROOM, 

witb  Drawing-Room  attached,  equally  available  for  Ladies  and  Qentlemen. 

Table  d'Hote  daily  daring  the  Season. 

Cuiaine  and  WHms  F!rst>Class.  Terms  moderate.  .  Freocb  sppken. 

BUUard  ancl  9molU9c  &••»•• 

THE   SEA  BATHS, 

Keoently  rebuilt  on  the  Hotel  Groaods,  by  Mr.  Brown,  will  Im  fotrad  to  contain  every 
modem  Improvement  Separate.  ApartmenUi  for  Ladies  and  Gentlemen.  Hot,  Cold,  Shower, 
and  Doncbe  Bathe.  The  Superinteudenta  in  each  l>epartment  bdng  people  of  experience, 
visitors  to  the  Baths  may  depend  on  every  attention. 

Bxt^give  Posting  and  Livery  lilstablUhment  in  connection  with  the  Hotel. 
A  Vehicle  to  the  Giant's  Causeway  and  back  daily  daring  tbe  Season. 
Tintoirs  to  the  ffotd  are  re$pectfuUy  requested  to  be  particular  in  inciuiring  for  Hit  ANTRIM 
ARMS  HOTEL  Omnibus.    It  atlcndi  all  Steamers  and  Trains,  for  tlie  conveyance  of 
Pwtengers  to  the  Hotel/ree, 

J.  BROWN,  PnoPRiETOR. 

PovtrttAit  the  nearest  RaHwau  Station  to  the  Giant's  Causeway. 


MR.  TENNANT,  GEOLOGIST,  149,  STRAND,  LONDON, 
W.G.,  gives  Hractical  Instrpcilon  in  Mineralogy  and  Geology.    He  can  alio  supply 
Elementary  Cofiectlons  of  Minerals,  Bocks,  and  Fu^ls,  on  the  following  tennd: —   . 
100  Small  Specimens,  in  cabinet,  witli  three  trays.     .     .     »    .     .     Ji2    2    0 

*a00  Specimens,  larger,  in  cabinet,  with  five  trasrs 5    6    0 

300  «»ectmens,  larger,  in  caj[>fnet|  witb  elg^it  drawers 10  10    0 

400  Specimens,  larger,  in  cabinet,  with  twelve  drawers    ....      21    0    0 
More  extensive  Collections,  to  illustrate  Geology,  at  50  to  lOO  Guineas  each,  with  every 
requisite  lo  assist  those  commencing  the  study  of  this  interesting  science,  a  knowledge  of 
wbidi  affords  so  much  pleasture  to  the  traveller  in  all  parts  of  tbe  world. 

•  A  Collection  for  Kive  Guineas  which  will  illustrate  tho  recent  works  on  Geology  by 
Ansted,  Jukes,  Murchison,  Hiillips,  and  especially  the  new  edition  of  Lyell's  '  Klemoits,' 
contains  20o  Specimens,  in  a  cabinet,  with  five  trays,  comprising  the  following,  viz. : — 

Minerals  which  are  either  tbe  components  of  Rocks,  or  occasionally  imbedded  In  them: — 
Quarts,  Agate.  Chalcedony.  Jasper,  Garnet,  Zeolite,  Hornblende,  Augite,  Asbestus,  Felppar. 
Mica,  Talc,  Tourmaline.  Calcareous  Spar,  Fluor,  Selenlte,  Baryta,  Strontia,  Salt,  CryoUte, 
Sulphur,  plumbago.  Bitumen,  Jet,  &c. 

Native  Metals  or  M ftt allifkrous  Minerals:  these  are  found  in  masses.  In  beds,  or  in 
veins,  and  occasionally  in  tbe  beds  of  rivers.  Specimens  of  Uie  folk>wing  are  contain^  in 
tlie  (>ibinet: — Iron,  Manganese,  Lead,  Tin,  Zinc,  Copper,  Antimony,  Silver.  Gold,  Platina,  &c. 
BoCKS:— Granlte.Gneiss,  Mica-slate.  Porphyry,  Serpentine.  Saiid8tones.Lime8tones.Lavas,&c. 
Paleozoic  Fossilb,  from  the  Llandeilo.Weiiiock,  Lu(iIow,|r)evonian,and  Carboniferous  Bocks, 
Sbcoxoaky  Fossils,  from  tlie  Trias,  Lias,  Oolite,  Wealden,  and  Cfetaceous  Groups. 
Trrtiary  Fos8iLB,fromthe  Wuolwich,  Barton, and  Brackiesbam  Beds,  London  Clay,  Crag,  &c  • 
In  the  more  expensive  Collections  some  of  the  Specimens  are  rure,  and  all  more  select. 

LECTTTSES  OK  mKEKALOOY  AND  GEOLOGY 

at  King's  Colleok,  l^ondon,  ate  given  on  Wednesday  and  Friday  Mornings  froni  9  to  10. 
Those  on  Mineralogy  begin  early  in  October,  and  terminate. at  Christmas.  Those  on  Geol<^ 
commence  in  January  and  continue  till  June.  A  shorter  course  of  Lectures  on  Mineralogy 
and  Geology  is  delivered  to  Evening  Classes,  from  8  till  9.  'Vhtae  begin  in  October  and 
terminato  at  Easter.  Mr.  Texkaxt  accompanies  his  Students  to  thp  Pjiblic  Museums  and  to 
pinces  of  Geo1ogic4»l  interest  in  ilie  country. 


56  HURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISKR.  ihj, 

GENEVA. 

No.  2,  PLACE  DBS  BEBGUBS. 

GEO.  BAKER, 

ENGLISH    CHEMIST   &   DRUGGIST. 


PRESCRIPTIONS  CAREFULLY  PREPARED.    ALL  KINDS  OF  PATENT 

MEDICINES  AND  PERFUMERY. 

HoDUMpathio  Preparatioiub    Soda  and  Saratoga  Water. 


Owing  to  the  facilities  accorded  by  the  •  Pastes  FedSrcUes*  Medicinea 
and  Preparations  of  all  kinds  are  forwarded  with  the  greatest  despatch 
and  safety  to  all  parts  of  Switzerland  and  the  Continent. 


GENEVA. 

0      '■ 

HOTEL  DE  LA  METROPOLE- 

CONDUCTED  BY  MR.  WILLIAM  WOLBOLD. 


This  large  and  excellent  Establishment,  situated  in  the  most  fevour- 
able  quarter  of  the  town,  opposite  the  English  Garden,  and  near  all  the 
principle  edifices,  enjoys  the  finest  view  of  the  Lake,  in  its  Ml  extent, 
and  contains,  200  most  elegantly  furnished  Bed  and  Sitting-rooms  in 
every  variety. 

A  beautiful  Eeading-i*oora,  where  all  the  chief 'English,  Americau, 
French,  and  German  Newspapers  are  to  be  found,  with  a  spacious  Cofifee 
and  Smokin<r-room ;  in  short,  every  comfort  travellers  may  expect  from 
a  first-rate  Hotel,  is  at  their  disposition. 

The  House,  by  its  good  ventilation,  is  exceedingly  ijool  in  summer, 
and  in  winter  is  well  heated  by  large  stoves. 

Charges  very  moderate,  and  Pension  during  the  winter.    , 

Table-d'hote  three  times  a  day,  at  4  fcs.  each  person,  at  1,  5,  and 
7  o'clock.  4 

Omnibuses  belonging  to  the  Hotel  to  and  from  the  Station  for  every 
train. 

Private  Carriages  and  Cabs  always  ready. 


1867.  MUKRAr'S  HANDBOOK  ADVEBTISER.  57 


BRUSSELS. 


HOTEL  DE  BELLE  VUE. 

Proprietor,  Mr.  EDWARD  DBEMEL. 

npHIS  magnificent  Hotel,  in  oflfering  to  the  Visitor  every 
kind  iof  comfoTt  and  ftooommodatioD^  lam  Uie  great  iidrantAge  of 
"being  situated  adjoining. 

THE  PALACE  OF  THE  KINO, 

and  fadng 
THE  PLACE  ROYALS  AND  THE  PARE. 

It  contains  numerons  large  and  small  Apartments,  as  well  as  single 
Rooms. 

Tabk  fH6i4y  richly  served,     ChQtce  Wine$* 

ft 

SMOKIKO-  BOOM. 

RKiUDINO  ROOJnU  wMi  Am  heat  Beltfliiii,  Bnglisb,  French, 
Oenuan*  and  Ameiicait  Hafiy  Papers  and  Periodicals. 

Terraces,  with  Splendid  View  overlooking   the  Park.^ 

ARRAKQEMENTS  MADE  FOE  THE  WINTEB. 


Mr.  Deemel,  the  new  Proprietor  of  this  Hotel,  hopes  to  jiistify  the 
confidence  placed  in  him,  by  a  carefully  arranged  system  of  prompt  and 
civil  attendance,  combined  with  moderate  charges. 


58  MUnRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER.  [Way, 

FLORENCE. 

BKIZZI    AND    NIOCOLAI'S 
IkCusioal  lEs'ta'blisIun.eii't. 


^  -^  ."■,  -"N^".-   ^  -■*   -v^  V 


PIANOFORTES,  OF  THE  BEST  MAKERS, 

FOR  SALE  AND  ON  HIRE. 

GENERAL    DEPOT  FOR  WIND-INSTRUMENTS. 
Ztftlian  and  Foreign  Mnsto. 

Muticai  Lending  Library. 

PIAZZA  MADONNA,  1     BRANCH  HOUSE  (Mdsic  DkiCt), 

PALAZZO  ALDOBRANDINI.         |  12,  VIA  CERRE TANL 

Z  iJ^R  I  C  H, 

HOTEL    BELLEVUE    AU   LAC. 

Proprietor :  C.  GUYER. 

^HIS  splendid  and  admirably  conducted  establishment,  situ- 
ated on  the  shore  of  the  Lake,  oonimand:},  by  its  unsurpassed  poititioii,  the  best  view  of 
the  Lake,  Alp«,  and  Glacierg,  and  offers,  by  its  superior  iiitfimal  arrangenients,  the  comforts 
of  Private  Apartments  and  Public  Parlours,  witli  careful,  civil,  and  quiet  attendants— all 
desirable  attractiuns  to  travelkrs  as  a  place  of  residence  or  of  tempomry  »oJoum. 

FemUm  ai  reduced  prices,  and  arrangements  made  for  families  from  October  to  Jidjf, 
ffotUe* — 195  Anarfiitcnft  liicing  Ike  I^afce. 


GENOA. 

h6tEL  lyiTALIE. 

Madame  F.  TEA,  Proprietress. 

Via  del  Campo,  No.  10. 

T'HIS  Hotel,  formerly  the  Raqgio  Palace,  is  one  of  the 
cleanest,  best  situated,  and  most  comfortable  in  Italy.  It  has 
been  fitted  up  with  the  greatest  care,  and  in  such  a  manner  as  to 
secure  every  possible  convenience  and  luxury. 

The  front  windows  command  a  splehdid  view  of  the  Harbour 
and  City, 

English,  French,  and  German  spoken. 

Table-d*h6ie  at  4  francs,  and  all  other  charges  strictly  moderate. 

The  Hotel  Omnibus  attends  the  arrival  of  ^ verv  Train. 


1867.  MUURAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTiSEft.  59 

LUCHON  (BAQNERES  DE)^  PYRENEES. 


Grand  Hotel  Boime-Maison  et  de  LondreSi 

Mr.  VIDAL,  Jim.,  Proprietor. 

Situated  opposite  the  Theimal  EstaUishment  or  Bath-rooms.  This  favourite  and 
first-rate  Hotel  affords  extensive  acconunodation  of  the  best  description  for  a  lai^e 
number  of  visitors.  It  is  delightfully  situated,  and  will  be  found  most  comfortable 
for  Families  or  Gentlemen. 

■  ■     '    ■      ■  I  >"     ■      I    I  ■  p      ■       I      ■■■  ■  .  ■■■■^  ■■.,,..       ■■■■■■  .1  I 

HEIDELBERQ. 

h6tel    de    l' EUR  ope. 

THIS  New,  Magnificent,  First-rate  Establishment,  surrounded 
by  private  and  public  gardens,  with  the  view  of  the  Castle,  and  the  very  best 
sitaation  of  Heidelbeig,  ei^joys  already  an  European  reputation. 

HAIXU-OUnCR,  Proprietor. 

NEAR   TO    LAUSANNE. 

H6TEL   BEAU  EIVAGE. 

SITUATED  IN  ONE   OF  THE  MOOT  BEAUTIFUL  SPOTS  OF 

THE  LAKE  OP  GENEVA. 

LUCERNE. 

SWAN  HOTEL.'-ThiB  Hotel,  in  the  yery  beet  situation, 
enjoys  a  high  character.  Mr.  HiEFELI,  the  Proprietor,  has  made  In  the  later  years 
a  great  many  improvemenu^  and  does  his  possible  to  oJTer  (o  his  visitors  a  comfortable 
home.  An  elegant  new  I^adfes'  Drawing-room,  besides  a  Reading>room  and  Smoking-room. 
By  a  week's  sojourn,  2)en«um  anangementa. 

«  I  III  I     I         I         —  I  <  ■  ..      !■         .  II  ■  II  I  i^,— ,1 

DRONTHEIM,    NORWAY.; 


h6tEL   P'ANGLETERRE, 

THRONDLYEM. 

FI8ST-CLASS  HOTEL,  SITUATED  IN  THE  FINEST  PART  OF  THE  TOWN. 

AFABTHEirrS  &  SOTdLE  BOOHS.    TABLE  D'Ht)TE. 

KNOT,TSH     SPOKKK.  -   ' 


«0  MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER.  May, 


GENOA. 

HOTEL  DK  FRANCE, 
KEPT   BY   ISOTTA   BEOTHEES. 

LARGE  and  small  Apartments,  Table^liote,  Private  Dinners 
at  a  fixed  price,  or  it  la  Carte,    Reading  and  Conversatioa  Rooms.    Baths.    Omnibus 
for  all  the  trains. 


QENO/L 

HOTEL    NATIONAL, 
KEPT   BY   ISOTTA   BEOTHEEB, 

SUITES  of  Apartments  and  Single  liooms,  Table-d'hote,  Pri- 
vate Dinners  at  a  fixed  price,  or  a  la  Cai-te.  baths.  Advantageous  terms  for  a  long  stay. 
Same  House  at  Naples^  HOtel  de  Geneve^  Place  Medina, 


ATHENS. 

HOTEL     D  E  S     ki  T  RANGERS, 

Hear  the  Boyal  PsUoe. 

In  the  most  delightful  situation,  oppiisite  the  Koyal  Gardens,  near  the  Palace.  The  best  Hotel 
in  Athens.    Moderate  price*;  good  attendeace.    All  languages  fipolesn. 


WIESBADEN. 


•4      "  ■ 


FOUR  SEASONS  HOTEL  &  BATHS. 

PBOPBIETOB,  J9JB.  ZAIS. 


'PHIS   First-Class  Establishment,  equal  to  any  on  the 

-^  Ehine,  is  in  the  best  and  most  delightful  situation  in  the  Great  Square^ 
opposite  the  Kursaa),  tlie  Theatre,  the  Promenades;  close  to  the  BoiUng 
Spring  and  the  new  English  Chapel. 

This  Hotel  is  UbiQ  largest  in  the  place,  containing  a  great  choice  of 

SPLENDID  AITD  OOHFOSIABLE   APABTMSHTS, 

for  Families  and  Single  Travellers ;  exquisite  Cuisine  and  first^daaB  Wi&eBi 
combined  with  attentive  service  and  moderate  charges. 


TABLE  D'HOTE  at  1  and  6  p.m.,  and  PEIVATE  DINHEES. 


Numercm  comfortahle  BcUhing  Cabinets,  supplied  wWi  Hot,  Minerd^ 

and  Street  Waters,, 


186t. 


MURRAY'S^  HANI>BOOK  ADYSKTlSE^fi; 


61 


THE  BEST  BOOK  THE  BEST  QIFT. 

Printed  on  toned  paper,  with  100  IQustrationB  and  Eight  Panoramic  Views, 
Two  vols,,  crown  8vo.,  3Q».  cloth ;  52«.  Qd.  calf;  63«.  morocoo. 

tHE   ILLnSTRATEB   FAMILY  TESTAMEllT. 

Edited,  with  a  short  practical  Commentary,  hy  Archdeacon  Chur- 
TON,  M.A.,  ai)d  Rev*  W.  Basil  Jones,  M.A.  With  authentic 
Views  of  Places  mentioned  in  the  Sacred  Text,  from  Sketches  and 
Photographs  made  on  the  spot, 

possible  toc  speak .  in  terras  of  pntifle 
sufficiently  high.  As  a  gift-book  it  is 
most  appropiiate  and  inraluable.* -^ 
Vhion  Iteview, 

*This  beautifnl  book  is  a  worthy 
memorial  of  the  sacred  season  selected 
for  its  appearance.  The  names  of  Arch-> 
deaqon  Choi'toa  and  Prebendary  Jones 
will  form  an  abundant  guarantee  of 
the  learning  and  reverence  brou^it  to 
bear  on  the  plain  explanatory  comments 
by  which  the  text  is  accompanied/-^ 
John  Bull 


*  The  Comnraientary,  as  a  whole,  is 
not  less  marked  by  accuracy  and  sound 
learning  than  by  judgment,  candour, 
and  piety.  We  highly  commend  it  to 
the  large  class  of  readers  for  whom  it 
is  designed/ — Quardian, 

•The  idea  of  illustrating  the  Bible 
"by  really  faithful  representations  of  the 
places  spoken  of  is  a  peculiarly  happy 
one,  for  it  is  In  hct  a  kind  of  eom- 
mentary.  The  book  is  a  work  of  very 
gi'eat  elegance  and  sound  scholarship. 
Of  the  illustrations  it  would  be  iwr 


n. 


Printed  on  toned  paper ;  One  tol^  Syos^  18#*clotk;  31#«6(2.  eftif  ; 

368.  morocco. 


THE  ILLUSTRATEI>  PEATEE-BOOK,  with  Oma- 

mental  Scrolls,  Foliage,  Head-pieces,  Vignettes,  Borders,  Initial 
Letters  printed  in  red  and  blctckf  and  Forty  Historical  Kngravings^ 
from  the  Early  Masters,  to  illustrate  the  Gospels.  Edited  by  Kev. 
Thomas  James,  M.A. 


<This  beautifal  editioa  is  adorned 
with  wood  engravings,  from  designs  of 
Rsfiaele,  Fm  Angelko,  Fra  Bartolomeo, 
and  Overbeck.  It  is  further  decorated 
with  vignettes,  initkhi ,  and  border  oi> 
naments.  The  borders  of  the  Calendar, 
representing  the  flowers,  leaves,  and 
fruits,  seem  particularly  appropriate;, 
and  the  initial  lettei»  are  wonderfully 
varied.* — London  Beoiew, 

*0f  our  glorioofl  Book  of  Common 
Prajfvr  there  is  no  edition  at  once  so 
beautiful  and  so  cheap  as. this.  The 
offices  of  Moi-ning  and  Evenings  Prayer 
anB  rubrioftted  and  ornamented  witii 
most  beautiful  borders  and  initials ;  and 


the  Litany  i^  exijnisitedy  printed  with 
a  border  connecting  the  initials  of  the 
various  suppiicatioos.  Exquisite  en- 
gravings in  outline  illustrate  the  prin- 
cipal events  in  the  lives:' of  our  Blessed 
Lord  and  of  His  Apostles.* — Standard, 
*  The  most  splendid  specimen  of  illus- 
trated, or  rather  illuminated,  books 
which  modem  art  has  produfwd.  The 
Missals  of  former  days,  many  of  them 
tke  labour  of  years  of  paiieht  i^l  and 
misdirected  devotion,  are  here  sm*pasaed 
by  the  mechanical  appai*atus  which 
modern  science  has  made  applicabl«  to 
the  purposes  of.  deountivfe  printiag^'-^ 
The  Tims, 


JOHN  MURBAY,  ALBEMARLE  STKEETi 


62  MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER-  May, 

SCETOE  AND  AET  DEPAETMENT 


OF  XHB 


€mxmxtkt  ai  €amxtxl  an  (B)intutxan, 

SOUTH   KENSINGTON. 


rj^HE 


Lords  of  the  Committee  of  Council  on  Edu- 
cation have  passed  the  following  Minnte  on  this  subject, 
and  invite  the  attention  of  travellers  and  tourists  to  it.  The 
object  which  the  Department  has  in  view  would  be  much 
aided,  if  such  travellers  would  have  the  kindness  to  send 
notes  of  any  remarkable  objects  which  may  not  he  described 
i  in  •  Murray's  Handbook ;'  the  notes  being  made  out  in  the 

'j  following  form,  and  sent  in  a  letter  addressed  to  the  *  Secre- 

I  taiy,  South  Kensington  Museum,  London,  W. :'  letters  so 

officially  addressed  may  be  sent  unpaid;  and  printed  forms 
)  will  be  supplied,  if  written  for. — Form — 1.   Subject ;  2.  Lo* 

f  cality ;    3.  Site ;   4.  Description ;    6.  Date ;   6.  Condition ;    7. 

Dimensions ;  8.  Eeference  to  any  fuller  account  published  or 
otherwise. 

At  South  Kensington^  the  first  day  of  December ^  1864. 
I  By  the  Eight  Honourable  the  Lords  of  Her  Majesty's  Most 

HONOUBABLE  PrIVY  CoUNCIL  ON  EDUCATION.' 


*V'-N>  ^.y^^  •■N.*'>.'vy^''v*'\^x^>^.^-v^ -•■...-».* 


Beproduotion  of  Examples  of  ArcUteotural  Decoration. 

I.  My  Loxds  take  into  consideration  ^hat  additional  examples  of  Archi- 
tectural Decoration,  as  well  of  British  as  (^  Foreign  origin,  it  is  denrabie 
should  be  obtained  to  complete  the  collections  in  the  South  KENanroroH 
Mxjsirou,  and  with  this  view  they  desire  to  have  the  advantage  of  the 
advice  and  suggestions  of  tlie  Institute  of  British  Architects,  the  Aichi- 
tectural  Museum,  and  the  ardutectural  profession  generally. 


4867.  MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER.  G'6 


SOUTH  KENSINQTON  MUSEUM-contimed. 

II.  The  objects  of  Decorative  Art  especially  referred  to  are  :— 

CE.  Omamental  Scttlptare  in  Marble^  Stone,  or  Wood. 

h.  Wail  Decorations  in  Fainting,  Mosaic,  &c. 

e.  Hammered  and  C9iased  Metal*wo:&. 

d  Omamental  Pavements  in  Mosajtc,  Encaustic  Tiles,  &c. 

e.  Bzamples  of  Stained  Qlass. 

'  nr.  It  is  desirable  that  the  objects  shoxtld  be  the  finest  specimens  of 
tlieir  class*  complete  in  themselves,  and  not  too  large  for  exhibitioa ;  iad, 
by  way  of  illnstration,  it  may  be  stated  that  casts  have  been  obtained  of . 
Archbishop  Grey's  Tomb  ftom  York  Oathedral,  the  Priors*  Gateway  in  the 
Cloisters  of  Norwich  Cathedral,  the  Singing  Gallery  in  Exeter  Oathedral, 
the  Pnlpit  of  Giovanni  Pisano  £rom  the  Baptistery  at  Pisa,  the  Ghiberti 
Bronze  Crates  at  Florence,  and  the  like. 

rV.  The  finest  typical  works  in  Stained  Glass  and  Mosaics  might  possibly  [ 
be  reproduced  in  materials  like  the  original,  and  the  same  observation 
applies  to  Hammered  Iioa-work.    Other  reproductions  may  be  obtained  by 
,  means  of  Casting,  Electrotyping,  and  large  copies  by  Painting  and  otherwise. 

Y.  In  respect  to  objects  of 'Northern  Medisdval  and  Renaissance  Artj  in  , 
which  the  varieties  bt  stylfi  are  very  numerous,  it  woidd  be  deiskalde  to  fonu 
in  the  first  instance  a  list  of  a  few  of  the  finest  examples  which  illustmte 
each  epoch  of  the  Art  and  each  class  of  Art.  Ajid  in  the  formation  of  such. 
A  list,  the  exp^ence  of  the  different  Architectural  Societies  and  Architects 
would  be  of  the  highest  utility. 

TL  B^8ides  making  a  collection  of  such  reproductions  as  proposed,  to  be 
exhibited  in  l^e  Museum,  My  Lords  will  cause  to  be  compiled  general  Art . 
Inventories,  briefly  naming  the  most  remarkable  objects  which  are  known  " 
to  exist,  and  showihg  the  locality  and  site  where  they  may  be  seen  and ; 
studied.    Photographs  may  be  added  occasionally  to  illustrate  these  inven- 
tories.   ' 

YII.  These  inventories  will  be  kept  in  type  to  admit  of  revisions  and 
additions,  and  only  a  few  copies  will  be  printed  from  tune  to  time^  Copies 
.  Willhe  s^nt  to  the  Architeciibral  Societies,  and  to  any  Architects  who  may 
apply,  atd  be  willing  to  contribute  notices  in  aid  of  their  eompleliazL 

By  order  of  the  Lords  of  the  Committee  of  Council  on  Edncotioa. 

HENBY  OOIiB,  Secretary. 


64 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISBa 


May,  18^: 


THE  ORIGINAL  PASSPORT  AGENCY. 


LBm  POLYGLOT 

WAfiHIH0 
BOOKS, 

(To  M^e  the  troaUe 

oftranalating 

W«ahSi«Bll]^ 

For  Ladies  or 
Qeatloiasii* 

BnglUh  S  Italian. 

JhM^A  aptmiUk, 

AipM  ^  Partuguett. 

SPONGE  BAQ8. 

XSTAIUO 
SOAPBOXES. 

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PASSPORTS 

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%GS-. 


obtained  and  Informatloik  glTen. . 


The  latest  editiona  of  MmtmAT's  Hahd- 
Boost  kept  in  the  original  binding,  and  in 
limp  leather,  more  oouTenient  for  thid 
poeketk  aft  iiL  ft  voihuBa  eztBib 

Tbvwwoktbt  Cotnoam  Axm  TsATiitna 
fiu¥AHTt  can  be  engaged  at 

LEE  &  CARTER'S 


With  the  exaet 

pronunciation  In 

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MANUSCRIPT  A 
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