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HANDBOOK FOE TRAVELLERS
IN
NOEWAY
« This Sign in the Text appended to a Name indicates that
farther information relating to the subject is to be found in the
Index and Dibbctobt at the end of the Book.
HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS
IN
NORWAY
EIGHTH EDITION, REVISED
WITH MAPS AND PLANS
LONDON
JOHN ^URRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET
CHRISTIANIA : T. BENNETT and ALB. CAMMEBMEYEB
1892
M
THB ENGLISH El
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CONSTANCE
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JJKBVS O F MirB BAY*»(
V OF THE FOLLOWING "^AGl
ROBB£BS«~~
mo.y
MA
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MARX.
ASHERje-MITS
TBLL.V
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LEIPZIG
l«^H(ftJNICH
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VIJHOFF.
MAUKB SdHNB.
Sudtzerla/nd,
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V
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WIESBADEN
MAT BE OBTAINED
my,
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BLiZZAJOLL
BARON.
MONDOVt
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Italy.
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ONORATO PORRL
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ONGANIA.
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CALCUTTA . THACKBB, SPINK, * CO. | BOMBAY THACKBE & CO., LmiTKD.
PEEFACE.
The development of the tourist traffic in recent years has wrought
such great changes in communications by land and water and,
generally, in facilities for visiting every part of Norway, a
country of unequalled attraction in Europe, that it has been
found necessary to re- write and re-construct almost the entire
work.
The volume has been written with a view to the satisfaction
of the general requirements of British and American travellers,
although a leaning will be observed towards the special wants
of sportsmen, the pioneers, in Norway, of the now ubiquitous
tourist. Mountaineers, pedestrians, and cyclists^ will also, it
is hoped, find in it sufficient indications for the realisation of
their several projects, and must, for any more minute details
they may require, be referred to the last (1891) edition of the
" Keisehaandbog over Norge," by Dr. Yngvar Nielsen (Professor
of Geography at the University of Christiania), from which much
information has been derived for the purposes of this Guide.
The compiler has also to acknowledge with gratitude, amongst
many other kind and generous contributions, the materials
* The portion oompHed especially for the convenience of Oydists, together
with a Grammar, Vocabulary, tfeo., has been printed separately and inserted
loose in a pocket at the end of the book.
[6] Preface.
supplied, in respect of " Angling," by Mr. A. Landmark (Inspector
of Fresh-water Fisheries in Norway), and by Sir H. Pottinger,
Bart., in regard to " Shooting."
The geographical and other scientific sketches have, to some
extent, been based on the accurate description of Norway given
by Mr. Job. Dyring, in his " Kongeriget Norge," published in
1891.
T. MICHELL,
H.B.M. Consul-General for Norway.
Chbibtiania : Jime 1892.
CONTENTS.
•o*'
Table ot Monet Values, Bbztisb and Nobweoian . first page of book
Pbefaoe ••••••••••••[5]
List ot Maps and Flans [8]
List ot I^utes .••;•••.••• [9]
INTRODUCTION.
L Histobioal Notice • • . [11]
II. GOYEBNMBNT, (&0 [20]
III. Geogbaphy, Geology, Minebaloqy, Olihate, Botany, Zoology [27]
rv. Statistics • • • [45]
y. Language, Litebatube, and Abt • [50]
VI. Measubes, Weights, and CSoins, compabed with Bbitish . . [53]
VII. Mails and Postages; Telbgbaph and Telephone . . . [55]
VIII. Spobt: Angling and SnooTiNa • . [56]
IX. Seasons tob Tbavel [82]
X. Modes ot Tbayelling : Steaiiship and Bailway Fabes, Land
AND Wateb Posting, Yachting, &o [84]
Table ot Steamship and Railway Fabes • • • • [84*]
Table ot Land and Wateb Posting [85*]
XI. Hints to Tbatbllebs: Hotels, Inns,:Clothing, Requisites, &c. [93]
Xn. Skeleton Routes and Access to Nobway . • • • [97]
iOBWAY * • • • * ^ •
% Gbamacab, Vocabulaby, and >
NOES • «« • • '• * J
Cycling Routes in Norway ....... ...
I in pocket at
NoBWEGiAN Alphabet, Gbamacab, Vocabulaby, and > /iL m/7
Sbbyiceablb Sentences
LIST OF ROUTES.
Seotiok I.
SOUTH, CENTRAL, AND EAST NORWAY.
Boate Page
,1. To ChriBtiania, vid Chris-
2. To pliriBtiaiiiafrom Copen-
hagen or Gothenburg, vid
' Frederikshaldj Frederik^
stad, and Sarpsborg, by
rail 24
3. Stockholm to ChriBtianift,
vid Charlottenberg and
' Ebng8vinger\ by rail .28
4. Ohristiania- to Skien, vid
Drammen, Hobnestrand,
Tonsberg, Sandefjord,
Laurvik, and Forsgrulid, '
• with branch to Eorteny
by rail .... 29
5. SkLen to Odde (Hardatfger)
' and Bergen, vid Tele-
marken . ..... 36
6. Ohristiania to XongBberg,
vid Drammen and Houg-
simd, by rail ; and to the
. Sjnkai^oB apd Hitterdal,
by road and str. . • . 42
7. ChriBtiania to SandBQord,
• vid Hcmgsv/nd and HGne-
fos, by rail ... 46
.8. ChriBtiania to Bergen, vid
Boate
Bandsfjord, Valders, the
Billefjeld, and .LcBrdaX-
s^eM- (Sogne fjord), by
rail, str., and road .
9. ChriBtiania to Bergen, vid
Krdderen^ HalUngdal, and
LsBrdalsoren, by rail, str.,
and road ....
10. ChriBtiania to Bergen, vid
' Lake Spirillen, Valders,
and LflBrdalsdren, by rail,
str., and road . .
11. The Jotnnheim .
12. ChriBtianiis to Kolde, vid
IiakeMjdsen, Oudbrcmds-
ddlt aadBomsdal, by rail,
str., and road .
13. Ohristiania to Trondhjem,
through Gudbranc^al
and over the Dovrefjeld,
by rail, str., and road
14. Ohristiania to Trondhjem,
by rail ....
15. ChriBtiania to Christian-
sand, vid intermediate
ports, by sir. .
16. Arendal, or Tvedestrand,
. to Telemarken, by road •
Pi«e
48
54
56
58
71
81
85
89
91
Section n.
WESTEBN. NORWAY.
Route Tuge
17. Christiansand .to .Telev
marken, through Ssaters-
dalen, by road . . 92
18. Christiansand to Eger-
snnd and StaTanger, vid
Mandal, Farsund, and
Flekkef jord, by str. . • 97
Route Page
19. Egertnnd to Stayaager,
by rail .... 99
20. Stavanger to Bergen, vid
Haiugestmd, by str. . . 102
21. StaTanger to Odde (Har-
danger) vid Sand (Suldal)
andBdldal,bystr.androad 103
List of Routes.
[9]
Route Page
22. Oreat Britain to Bergen,
by sea . . . . 105
23. The Hardanger Qord . 112
24. Bergen to VosseTangen,
by rail .... 122
25. VoBSOTangen to OndTan-
gen, vid Stalheim, by road 124
26. Bergen to the Sogne ^ot6.
and its branches, by str. 125
27. Vadheim (Sogne Qord) to
the SondQord and to
Vaerlo (TTtvilt) in the
Nordf jord, by road . . 132
28. Paleide to HeUesylt^ by
road .... 134
29. Bergen to the SSndQord
and KordQord, by str. . 136
Boute Page
30. Bergen to Kolde, viA
Aalestmd, by str. . . 138
31. Aalesond to the Inner
Sdndmore Qords (Soholt,
Sylte, Maraak (Merok),
andHellesylt) . . 141
32. Kolde to VeblnngsnsBS, by
str., and up Somsdalen,
byroad .... 144
33. Kolde to Trondlgem,
throngli Nordmore and
the Orkedal, by road . 147
34» Kolde to ChriBtianannd,
by str 149
35. Chnstiaasnnd to Trond-
yem, by str. . . • 150
Section III.
THE NOR*H OF NORWAY.
Route Page
36. OreatBritaintoTrondhJem,
by s6a . ' . ' . . 165
37. Trondl^' em to Stockholm, by
rail . 160
38. Trondl^'em to Kamsot, vid
Levanger and Stenkjier,
by str. and road . » 162
39. Trondlgem to Kannos, by
:str. . . . . . 165
40. Kam808toVefiien(ilfo^'dien)
by str 167
Boute Page
41. KogjSen (Veflien) to Bodi$,
by str. .... 169
42. The Lofoten Islandi, by
str.. .... 173
43. Bodo to Tromtd, by str. . 175
44. TromsS to Hammerfest, by
stf. ..... ITo
45. Hammerfest to VardS and
VadsS (Varanger Qovd),
vid the jV. Cape . . 181
INDEX AND DIRECTOBY 189
MAPS AND PLANS,
^1. Boute Map of Southern Norway . . in pocket at the hegiwmng
"^ 2. Plan of Ghristiania tofaeepageli
V 3. Map of the Jotunheim „ „ 70
' 4. Plan of Bergen „ „ 110
^ 5. Map of Hardanger Fjord n ») 122
V6. „ Sogne Fjord „ „ 132
^ 7. Map of Norway, South of Trondhjem, No. 1 ^
^8. „ „ „ „ No. 2 J
V 9. Plan of Trondhjem »* » 158
Ao. Map of the Vefsen Estate „ „ 169
^11. „ Norway, North of Trondhjem, No. 1 . . -|
{No 2 V»» »» ^'^^
Lofoten Islands andVesteraalen Islands '
• 13. „ Northern Norway „ „ 188
A HANDBOOK
FOB
TRAVELLERS IN NORWAY.
INTEODUCTION.
I. ffistorical Notice . . [11]
II. Government, Ac. . . [20]
in. Geography, Geology,
Mineralogy, Climate,
Botany, Zoology . [27]
IV. Statistics . . . [45]
V. Language, Literature,
and Art . . . [60]
VI. Measures, Weights, and
Coins, compared with
British . . . [63]
VII. Mails & Postages; Tele-
graph and Telephone . [66]
Vni. Sport: Angling and
Shooting .
IX. Seasons for Travel
X. Modes of Travelling:
Steamship and Bail-
way Fares, Land and
Water Posting, Yacht-
ing, &c.
XI. Hints to Travellers:
Hotels, Inns, Cloth-
ing, Bequisites, &o, .
XII. Skeleton Boutes and
Access to Norway
PAGB
[66]
[82]
[84]
[93]
[97]
[A Sketch of the Norwegian Ora/nvmar and a Vocabula/ry a/re loosely
attached at the end of this hook, for use when d/ri/vi/ng, dc, ; also a separate
Qmdefor Cyclists.]
I. Historical Notice.
The early history of Norway is enveloped in darkness, and rests on
traditions embodied in the Icelandic sagas and the £emious Chronicle
of Snorro Sturleson, which date from the eleventh and twelfth cen-
turies. The aborigines were probably a few Lapps scattered in fiEunilies
all over the country till they were driven northwards, and confined to
their present abodes by the influx of the forefathers of the modem
Norwegians, Danes, and Swedes, descendants of a branch of the great
Gothic stock, whose memory is preserved in numerous local names in
Scandinavia. These three nations form the northern or Scandinavian
division of the Germanic or Teutonic race ; whilst the Germans, the
J)utch, and the Flemish form the southern or German division, to which
also the Anglo-Saxons belonged. The exact date of the arrival in
Scandinavia of the Gothic tribes is not known, but it probably was
not long anterior to the Christian era. Traditions and the results of
archseological research point to the conclujsion that the Gothic inhabi-
tants of Scandinavia came from Asia, and, after wandering through
[12] Historical Notice.
the eastern and middle parts of Europe, where kindred tribes remaine d
occupied Denmark first, and thence, crossing the Baltic, southern
Sweden and Norway. It is from about the early part of the eighth
century that the Scandinavians appear for the first time on the stage
of universal history. Then began those feur-reaching Viking expedi-
tions that made the name of ** Northmen " known and dreaded on the
most distant coasts of Europe, and which, amongst other great results,
laid the foundations of the present Bussian Empire, first at Novgorod,
then at Kief. The settlers in Norway formed during a long period
numerous small communities, which waged continual war upon each
other until Harald Haarfager (the Fair-Haired) at the battle of
Hafardsfjord, in 872, completed the conquest of the country, and suc-
ceeded in fusing the numerous small earldoms into one realm. Having
been told at the commencement of his career of the charms of Gyda,
daughter of the King of Hordaland, Harald sent messengers to her
with the offer, not of his hand, but of his heart. Her proud reply is
stated to have been that, so hx from being the mistress, she would not
even be the wife of a chief whose territories consisted of a few insigni-
ficant provinces, and that she would never marry any one who did not
hold absolute sway over the whole country. Admiring her ambition,
he vowed to the gods that he would neither cut nor comb his hair
until he had subdued all Norway, and that he would do so or perish in
the attempt. After he had attained the object of that vow Gyda be-
came his wife, although, according to the custom of the age, she shared
that honour with eight others.
Between the completion of Harald's conquest of the country (about
885) and the middle of the thirteenth century, occurred the heroic period
of Norwegian history, replete with tales of the grandest warlike exploits.
But although great riches were brought home to Norway (as well as
to Sweden and Denmark) by Vikinga^^ the elements of a healthy de-
velopment of the country were wantmg, and the strength of the people
was gradually exhausted by foreign expeditions and internal feuds.
The union of Norway into one kingdom by Harald Haarfager in-
duced many of the petty chieftains to emigrate, and the same causes
produced contemporaneously a similar effect in Denmark and Sweden.
The Scandinavian maritime expeditions above mentioned gradually
assumed much larger proportions, and the object of the Vikings became
principedly to find new homes on other shores* Whilst &e Danes
settled on parts of the coast of England and in Normandy, the Norwe-
gians established themselves principally in Scotland and Ireland. The
multitude of local names, Scand&iavian in origin, in the British
iHland^ bears witness to th6 numbers of the settlers. According to later
traditions, Bollo (Bolf), the first Duke of Normandy, was an exiled Nor-
wegian ehiefbain ; and some writers have fixed his home in Norway in
Sondmdre. But contemporaneous chroniclers state that he and his fol-
lowers tfrere Danes, and many of their descendants there are still sor-
named ** le Danois." Danes and Norwegians aMke were oaJled North-
> Literally, men of the Tiks (Wieks) or creeks, from which they SalHed iH
boats on marauding expeditions or pounced upon passing seafaring traden.
The suffix kmg is therefore misleading to an English ear.
Historical Notice. [13]
men. The whole seaboard of Europe was visited by Vikings, and many,
notably Norwegians, reached Constantinople (in the ancient Scandina-
vian tongue called Miklagaard, " The great Court "), where they formed
the bodyguard of the emperors. The Scandinavians reached Constan-
tinople also through Bussia, where the YiMngs were called Varcmgians,
" Westmanna " is another name by which they were known. One of
the most interesting exploits of the Norwegians was their occupation
of Iceland in the tenth century, from whence the discovery of America
is said to have taken place by the drifting away in a storm of a Scan-
dinavian vessel between Iceland and Greenland.
Harald HaarfBiger died in 988. His son, Haakon the Good, was
brought up in England at the court of Athelstane, and was the first
king who endeavoured to establish Christianity in Norway; but
Paganism was not finally eradicated until the twelfth century. There
is a curious story told in the saga which bears his name with refer-
ence to the introduction of Christianity. The king was suspected of
being a waverer from the old religion, and his nobles insisted on his
attending a banquet held to Odin, and drinking the horse-broth in his
honour : to which the king was obliged to consent, but with very bad
grace. This seems to have been the test applied by the worshippers
of Odin to all whom they suspected of Christianity. And certamly
there was nothing which the monks and early missionaries to Scandi-
navia denounced more wamdy than eating horse-fiesh, as savouring «
of the ancient worship. The repugnance to eating horse-flesh, still felt
by all nations of the Germanic family, as well as by Russians who are
not Tartars, perhaps has its origin from this.
The city of Trondhjem was founded a.d. 997, by King Olaf Trygg-
vasson. Among all the sovereigns of Norway, the adventures of l^is
king are the most romantic. Bom a prince, his mother saved his life
from the usurper of his rights only by quitting the country ; they were
taken by pirates, separated, and sold as slaves. At an early age he was
discovered and redeemed by a relative, became a distinguished leader
of piratical e^editions, married an Irish princess, embraced Christi-
anity, and ultimately fought his wa^ to the throne of Norway in 995.
He then became a most zealous missionary, propagating the faith by
his sword : death or Christianity was the only alternative he allowed
to his subjects. He destroyed the celebrated Temple of Thor and Odin,
i^ear Trondhjem, with the idols of those gods, which were held in the
highest veneration. He was killed a.d. 10n5o in a sea-fight on the coast
of Pomerania.
In 1016 Olaf (Olave) the Second, also a descendant of HaraJd
Haarfager, ascended the throne of Norway. He is more usually known
as Olaf the Hol^, or St. Olaf. After pledging himself to respect the
rights of the native chiefs, he not only destroyed the heathen temples,
but propagated the Christian fftith with fire and sword. It was, how-
ever, chiefly his severity towards the under-kings and the turbulent
aristocracy of the country that produced his downfall and compelled
him to taJke refage at the Court of the Grand Duke Yaroslaf at Kief.
Thereupon, Canute the Great, King of England and Denmark, landed
in Norway and was elected king. Olaf subsequently invaded the
country with a view of recovering the throne, and a desperate battle
[14] * Historical Notice,
was fought at StiMestad, N. of Trondhjem, in which he was slain,
July 29, 1030, together with most of his followers. A few years after-
wards, his remains having been found in an incorrupt state, a miracle
was proclaimed and he was declared a saint, the body being removed
to Trondhjem and buried there. A chapel, erected over it, was the
origin of the present Cathedral. Pilgrimages were made to the shrine
of St. Olaf up to the time of the Eeformation. He is the Lamb of
the Calendar, and, besides three other churches in London dedicated
to him, St. Olave's of Tooley Street, Southwark, still gives its name to
a parish on the south side of London Bridge. Modern historians have
rehabilitated the character of St. Olaf as that of a king who held a
higher place than any other Norwegian ruler in the veneration and
gratitude of the people. He estabUshed Christianity in Norway, and
was the first to found a Norwegian State in the Middle Ages. The
Norwegian Order of Knighthood, founded by King Oscar I., in 1847,
bears his name.
Svejn, the son of Canute, was deputed by the latter to govern
Norway, with aTegal title ; but upon the death of Canute, in 1035, Svejn
was driven from the throne, and Magnus "The Good," illegitimate son
of St. Olaf, obtained possession of it. He died in 1047, and was suc-
ceeded by his uncle, Harald III. (Sigurdsson Haardraade), one of the
greatest warriors of his age, and the founder of Oslo, now the city of
Christiania. This king was renowned for his expedition to " Mikla-
gaard," where the Byzantine Emperor made him chief of his body-
guard as a reward for his brave exploits. At the instigation of Tostig,
brother of Harald II. of England, he invaded that country, but in the
battle fought at Stamford in Lincolnshire, in 1066, both Harald of
Norway and Tostig were slain. The son of Harald (Olaf III. — Kyrre —
of Norway), with the whole of the Norwegian fleet, fell into the hands
of Harald of England, who generously allowed Olaf to depart with
twenty ships. Harald himself perished, within three weeks s^erwards,
on the field of Hastings.
Magnus II., sumamed Barfod (Bare-foot), was the successor to his
father, Olaf IIL (Kyrre), and became one of the most warlike and heroic
monarchs of Norway. In 1098 he conquered the Isle of Man, the Shet-
lands, Orkneys, and Hebrides. He afterwards invaded Ireland, where
he was surprised and slain, in 1103, after a gallant resistance.
After the short reigns of Olaf and Oystejn (1103-1122), Sigurd L, a
third son of Magnus, succeeded. He acquired the surname of " Jor-
salafarer," i.e» l^aveUer to Jerusalem. He is celebrated in the annals
of Norway for his pilgrimage to Jerusalem and his exploits during the
voyage. Sailing in 1107, with a fleet of sixty ships, he was four years
absent. His first winter was passed in England, where he was hospit-
ably entertained by Henry I. Continuing his voyage, he fought
several battles afterwards with the Moors in Portugal, and at sea.
Landing in Sicily, he was magnificently entertained there by Boger,
the Norman sovereign of that island. He then proceeded to Jerusalem,
where the offer of his sword was very acceptable to Baldwin. His last
exploit in the Holy Land was that of joining in the siege of Sidon, and
when the city was taken half the booty became his. He returned
home by way of Constantinople and Germany.
Historical Notice. [15]
Before leaving Constantinople, Sigurd placed the figurehead of his
own ship, a gilt " dragon," 12 feet long, on the Church of St. Sophia ;
but in 1204, after the capture of the city by the Crusaders, the new
Emperor, Baldwin of Flanders, sent it as a present to the city of
Bruges, whence it was carried away in 1382 to Ghent.
Dissension and civil war followed upon the death of Sigurd (1130),
which for a time were checked, in 1152, by the good offices of the Papal
Legate, Nicholas Breakspear, an Englishman, who afterwards ascended
the pontifical throne as Adrian lY. He succeeded in getting a metro-
poHtan see established' at Trondhjem,with a jurisdiction not only over
Norway, but also over Iceland, Greenland, the Faro Islands, Shetlands,
Orkneys, Hebrides, and Man. These two last were called the
" Syderoer," or Southern Islands, in contradistinction to Orkney and
Shetland. This word is the origin of the name ** Sodor"
The period between 1130 and 1240 (occupied by twelve reigns) is
memorable as one of incessant internecine strife. Foremost among
the contending insurrectionary bodies were the Bvrkehener (" hWch-
legs '*), so called from their haying worn sandals of birch bark, like
the Bussian peasants of the present day. They were powerful enough
to establish Sverre Sigurdsson as king (1177-1202). Prosperity revived
in Norway during his reign. The question of privileges previously
granted to the Church was prominent in the dissensions of those
times, which ceased only in 1240.
Haakon lY. (Haakonsson), a grandson of Sverre, made war upon
Scotland for the recognition of his claim to the Hebrides (disputed by
Alexander III. of Scotland), and died during the expedition, in 1263.
His supremacy had been acknowledged in Iceland ; and Greenland,
occupied by Icelanders in the tenth century, was annexed by him in
1261. From this time commenced again a decline of the national
prosperity of Norway, owing to frequent foreign and civil wars, which
thinned the population ; and also to the monopoly of trade established
by the Hanse towns, which crushed the nationed industry, and shackled
the trade of the country.
Another great blow to the prosperity of Norway was the plague
(called the Black Death), brought in 1349 by an English ship wUch
had been driven into Bergen, the crew having previously perished. In
Trondhjem the archbishop and the whole of the chapter died, with the
exception of one canon. Solomon, Bishop of Oslo, was the only
bishop who survived. Several densely populated valleys lost all their
inhabitants ; the domestic animals also were smitten with the plague.
The peasantry, for want of cattle and of strength to labour, could not
cultivate the land, and the famine which succeeded completed what
the plague had begun : many districts became waste, and forests
sprang up where cultivated fields had previously existed.
Haakon YI. (Magnusson) married the daughter of Yaldemar lY. of
Denmark, and died in 1380, when the Norwegian crown descended to
his infant son, then Olaf III. of Denmark, from which period, down to
1814, the two countries remained united under one sceptre. Olaf III.
of Denmark and Y. of Norway died young, and was succeeded by
his mother, the famous Margaret, known as '* the Semiramis of the
North." Yictorious over the King of Sweden, she subsequently united
[16] Historical Notice.
hifl country to her dominions, and in 1397 succeeded in obtaining the
signatures of the chief nobles and prelates of the three kingdoms to
the celebrated act known as the Union of Oalmar, the chief object
of which was to unite the three crowns; and, with that view, it
was stipulated that a perpetual peace should reign between the
three countries, the subjects of each to have equal rights at the election
of their sovereign, each kingdom to be governed by its own laws, and
all to unite in the common defence.
But the successors of Margaret, German princes distantly related
to the old royal family of Denmark, had not the energy and ability to
carry out her great work.
Christian I. of Denmark mortgaged the Shetland and Orkney
Islands for a portion of his daughter's dowry on her marriage with
James III. of Scotland : the debt was never cleared, and therefore
those islands remained permanently subject to the crown of Scotland.
In 1523, the Swedes — ^who had never cordially accepted the Scandi-
navian union, and who were exasperated at the cruel measures of King
Christian II. — finally re-established their independence under Gustav
Vasa, and, soon after, the political relation of Norway to Denmark was
materially altered. In the same year in which Christian II. lost the
crown of Sweden, the nobihty in Demnark r*^belled against him, and
elected his uncle Frederick I. in his stead. Civil war ensued, for the
lower and middle classes favoured Christian II. as much as the nobles
hated him. He sought assistance abroad, and landed in Norway in
1531, where he found many adherents, but was finally compelled to
enter into negotiations, and was made a prisoner for life. At the death
of Frederick I., in 1533, the Mends of Christian II. rose again, and
Copenhagen declared for him ; but the arniies of Christian III. were
victorious, and the capital succumbed after a twelvemonth's siege
Norway was punished by the victorious party for her adherence to
Christian 11. by the loss of her independence ; she was deprived of her
parliament and reduced to a mere province of Denmark, instead of
being a free elective kingdom — a hard measure to which she was too
weak to offer even a show of resistance.
In 1536, under Christian III., the Beformation was introduced, and
gradually and peacefully carried through. Amongst the next Kings
of Denmark none was more popular than Christian IV., who often
visited the country, and founded the towns of Christiania (on the ruins
of ancient Oslo) and Christiansand. In his reign the rich silver-mines
at Kongsberg, and the copper-mines of Boros, once the most produc-
tive in Norway, were discovered and worked. He also greatly im-
proved the laws and administration of the country. His reign is
interesting to British travellers iii connection with the so-called " Scot-
tish Expedition " in 1612, of which an account will be given in our
description of Bomsdalen. The marriage, in 1589, of James VI. of
Scotland with Anne, sister of Christian IV., will be noticed in the
description of Christiania. During the first two centuries after the
separation of Sweden from Denmark and Norway, frequent wars
occurred between the two Scandinavian Powers, in which the Nor-
wegians took a conspicuous pajt. Tordenskjold, the most popular hero
of the Danish navy, was a Norwegian, and it was in Norway, at the
Historical Notice. [17]
siege of FrederiksHaJd, that Charles XII. of Sweden met his death.
Ahready, in those days, Norwegians took a considerable part in the
literary and scientific life of Scandinavia. Ludvig Holberg, the father
of modern Danish literature, Wessel, and some o&er highly esteemed
authors were Norwegians. Copenhagen and its University, of course,
formed the intellectual centre of the Dano- Norwegian nation, although
a Norwegian Scientific Society had its seat at Trondhjem. In this
respect, a change would in any case have resulted from the estabHsh-
ment of a University at Christiania in 1811, under Frederick VI., but
the two countries were violently separated, after having been united
for more than 400 years.
In 1810, the Emperor Alexander I. of Bussia guaranteed Norway
to Sweden in exchange for Finland, on condition that the Crown Prince
Begent of Sweden (Bernadotte) should join the aUied sovereigns. The
Crown Prince accepted that arrangement, which was confirmed by the
great Powers, and, afber the battle of Leipsic, he marched into Holstein
with a considerable force and compelled Frederick VI., under the terms
of the treaty of Kiel, to cede Norway to Sweden.
Many Norwegians were at that time prisoners of war in England,
and had been offered their liberty upon giving their parole not to bear
arms during the continuance of the struggle their country was making.
To a man they refused those terms, and remained in prison till the
war was over.
When the treaty of Kiel became known, the Norwegians were in-
dignant at being thus transferred fi:om Denmark to Sweden without
their consent, and resolved to resist it and to declare their independ-
ence. Prince Christian (afterwards the eighth king of that name in
Denmark) was then Danish Governor-General of Norway and resident
there. He convoked a national diet, which, composed of 113 represent-
atives of all classes of the people, met at Eidsvold, near Christiania, on
April 11, 1814. A Constitution (Ortmd-lov) was drawn up by it. On
May 17 following. Prince Christian was elected King of Norway, and
the diet thenceforth took the name of " Storthing." The Swedes, led
by Bernadotte, invaded Norway by way of Fredenkshald, and the aUies
blockaded the coast. Longer resistance became a useless waste of life
and property, and therefore, on August 14, favourable terms having
been offered to the Norwegians, an armistice and convention were
agreed to between the belHgerents. Christian abdicated the throne of
Norway, and Charles XIII. of Sweden was elected in his place as King
of Norway. On November 4, 1814, he accepted the Constitution, on
which day it is therefore dated. It comprises 112 articles, the first of
which declares that " Norway shall be a firee, independent, indivisible,
and inahenable State, united to Sweden under one king." (See
" Government, &c." ) On the death of Charles XIII., in 1818, Bernadotte
ascended the throne of Norway as Charles John XIV.
On his death, in 1844, his son, Oscar I., was proclaimed. Soon
after his accession, that sovereign gave the Norwegians a separate
national flag, on which, however, was to be displayed a symbol of the
union of Sweden, just as the Swedish colours bear to this day the Nor-
wegian " union," as a corresponding acknowledgment. He also decreed
that, in aU acts and pubHc documents relating to Norway, he should
[Norway— Yi, 92.] a
[18] Sistoricat Notice*
be styled King of Norway and Sweden, instead of Sweden and Kor*
way, as heretofore. These and many other judicious arrangements,
combined with his liberal and enlightened views, his scientific
acquirements, and untiring industry in the duties of his high office,
endeared him to his Norwegian subjects, with whom he was very
popular.
In September 1857 King Oscar I. was attacked by a malady which
incapacitated him from holding the reins of government. Prince Carl
Louis Eugene was appointed Begent during the illness of his father,
on whose death, in 1859, he succeeded to the throne under the title of
Charles XV. He was bom on May 3, 1826, and married, in 1850, the
Princess Louise, daughter of Prince William Frederic, a brother of
the. King of Holland. He died September 18, 1872, and his brother,
Oscar II. (bom January 21, 1829), and his consort, Sophie of Nassau,
were crowned at Trondhjem, July 18, 1873. The Crown Prince, Oscar
Gustav Adolf, bom June 16, 1858, was married in 1881 to Princess
Victoria, daughter of the Grand Duke of Baden.
The reigning sovereign succeeded to relatively troublous times in
Norway. Under one of the most liberal constitutions in Europe — a
substantial product of the great French Bevolution — the country had
been peaceMly and happily governed since 1814. Education, more
especially, had made great progress, and in its wake came a natural
desire for corresponding material improvement in the old rough,
patriarchal mode of life. Every career and the highest offices in the
State became practically open to those who passed, at httle expense to
themselves individuaJly, through the higher schools or graduated at
the University of Christiania almost in forma pauperis. The plough
began at last to feel the competition of learned professions and public
or mercantile employments, and the dairy that of finer needlework,
modem garments, and harmonious instruments. It was no longer by
bread (or rather porridge) alone by which the people desired to Hve as
they threw off their old home hfe, under which the family produced all
it required for its own consumption, excepting spirits, tobacco, coffee,
and sugar. It was only these articles which (apart from the communal
assessments for poor reHef, education, roads, &c.) necessitated either
the expenditure of hard cash (raised from surplus produce or firom
the products of forestry) or a recourse to credit at neighbouring store-
keepers — the middlemen of Ireland and Bussia to the present day
Increasing wants in these respects could no longer be satisfied out of
the produce of the land held in freehold by " the fireest and finest
peasantry in the world." In these circumstances they began to feel
heavily the strain of debt gradually incurred under the pecuHar Nor-
wegian law of inheritance, which gives to every son and daughter an
equal share in the parental estate, as weU as by the need of ready
money for the amelioration of the conditions of life, seldom for that of
the soil. To this day, every new partition of property (under which
the eldest son has the right of buying out his co-heirs) increases the
existing encumbrances, and which may be estimated at not less than
50 per cent, on the value of almost every house or parcel of land
throughout the country.
The spirit of Conservatism, theoretically inherent to the ownership
Historical Notice. [19]
of real property, soon began to evaporate, especially after the forests
had been thinned and converted into ready money. Norway then
became ripe to receive the seeds of radical and socialistic doctrines
which were broadly sown by agitators and place-hunters. The peasantry
secured an overwhelming ** Liberal " majority in the representation
of the rural districts, the towns alone (and in this case also against
established theories) remaining true to the principles and forms under
which the country had so £Gi.r been well and successfully administered.
Political strife culminated in a deniaJ on the part of that majority of
the right of the King to exercise an absolute veto in matters affecting
the Constitution, His Majesty's privilege being well defined in the
Constitution in regard to the sanction of all other laws. The veto in
respect of ordinary legislation is suspensive only pending sessions of
three successive Storthings or Parliaments, which, by passing such
laws without amendment, can dispense with the royal sanction. Several
years before the decisive battle over the veto was fought, the King
spontaneously proposed that the Constitution should be amended in
the direction of admitting his Ministers to participation in the de-
bates of the Storthing, but under guarantees that would obviate as far
as possible a frequent and factious dismissal of the chief servants of
the Crown. The King insisted, more especially, upon the introduction,
of a general " Pension Law," the existing system in that respect giving
power to the Storthing to refuse a pension to any person obnoxious to
the majority, or to modify it at pleasure in every individual case. It
appeared necessary to have some check in that respect with the view
of economising the national expenditure, and in order to prevent as
much as possible the rapid passing of numerous ** bread-politicians *'
through the office of "State Councillor " or Minister.
But a majority of about three-fourths having been secured by the
agitators under the leadership of Mr. J. Sverdrup, whose name became
the watchword — " Confidence in Sverdrup " — at the general election to
which this question refers, the King's Ministers were impeached before
a ** High Court of the Bealm," composed exclusively of their political
enemies and of a few Judges of the High Court of Justice, for advising
his Majesty that the royal veto was absolute in questions affecting the
Constitution, which had not provided for the presence of Ministers in
Parliament. They had argued that, if no such veto were recognised,
the Constitution, which was virtually a compact between the ruler and
the nation, might lose its monarchical form and enable an impetuous
majority to vote a Eepublie or a Commune. A cov^ d*4tat being out ot
the question, the King had to submit to the condemnation of his
Ministers, who were declared (by secret voting) unfit to hold office and
sentenced to fines which, happily for them, as impecunious officials,
were at once paid by a sympathising, loyal public. The King attempted
to resist awhile by appointmg a Cabinet devoted to the original princi-
ples of the Constitution, but less fossilised in the Civil Service and some-
what more in touch with the people. Under the prospect of another
" High Court of the Bealm " and of sentences of imprisonment, that
Ministry resigned within a very short time, and the King, in his
wisdom and far-sightedness, called upon Mr. Johan Sverdrup to form
a Cabinet, while reserving solemnly his right to exercise the veto that
a2
[20] Oovemmenty &c.
had been in dispute. Soon after, the new Prime Minister received
the Grand Gross of St. Olaf, and acquired the confidence of the
Sovereign. But dissensions in the party and the Cabinet rapidly altered
the situation. Mr. Sverdrup found it practically impossible to comply
with the desires of the more advanced section of his party, especiaUy
in the direction of quarrelling with Sweden over the right it has always
exercised of transacting the common diplomatic business of the United
Kingdoms. A retrograde law imposing a serious disabiHty on ahens
in the matter of the purchase or lease of real property, which now
cannot be effected in Norway without the King's permission in each
individual case, was passed during his tenure of office. He was forced
to resign in 1889, after a debate in the Storthing of a bill relating to
ecclesiastical matters, which obtained the support of only one vote. A
new triennial election having improved somewhat the numerical
position of the Conservative party and established the existence of
a split in the Liberal ranks into two, if not three, sections (leaving the
Loyalist party the only compact and the numerically superior body in
the Storthing), the King had no other course open to him but that of
entrusting the formation of a Cabinet to Mr. Emil Stang, who was
at once joined by some of the ablest and most notable men in the
kingdom. With the patriotic support of the moderate wing of the so-
called Liberal party, the new Ministry was able to conduct the affairs
of the country with acknowledged success and benefit. During the
short previous Liberal tenure of office were introduced trial by jury in
criminal cases, and a theoretical and still practically incomplete re-
organisation of the Norwegian army. The most sahent act of pohcy
on the part of the Conservative Government of Mr. Stang was a re-
duction of the duty on co£fee, which was later supplemented by a corre-
sponding boon in the matter of sugar — two articles of consumption
in which Norwegian housewives are deeply interested.
A general election, fought in 1891, resulted in the triumph of the
Badical party. The main features of its programme were the intro-
duction of universal suffrage and an equal participation with Sweden
in the management of diplomatic affairs, involving apparently the
appointment of Norwegian consular (if not also diplomatic) officers,
side by side with'^those accredited by Sweden, and the formation of a
separate Norwegian Foreign Office, under a Minister responsible to
the Storthing.
II. Oovemment, &o.
1. Government. — Norway is an hereditary constitutional monarchy
united with that of Sweden ; the mutual rights of the Crown and of the
people being clearly defined by the Constitution of 1814, subsequently
guaranteed by the AlHed Powers, and which instituted a Fcurliament of
only one chamber — the Storthing. This is elected for three years, and
assembles annually. The duration of the session is three months, or,
with the sanction of the King, until the whole of the business is dis-
patched. The King has not the power to dissolve it within the fixed
term of a session. Each Storthing settles the taxes for the ensuing
financial year (which begius on July 1), enacts, repeals, or alters
Oovemmenty &c. [21]
the laws, grants the sums which have been estimated for the different
branches of expenditure, revises the pay and pension lists, and makes
such alterations as it deems proper in any provisional grants made
by the King daring the recess. It also appoints auditors to examine
all the Government accounts. The reports of the public departments,
as well as copies of all treaties, are laid before it. The Odelsthing can
impeach and try before a " High Court of the Realm," composed of the
Lagthing (a division of its own body) and of members of the High
Court of Justice, Ministers and judges (for breach of official duty), as
well as its own members (for crime). Besides these important con-
trolling powers, secured to it by the Constitution, sworn to by the
representatives of the nation at Eidsvold on May 17, and accepted
by the King on November 4, 1814, the Storthing receives the oath of
the King on coming of age or ascending the throne ; and, in case of a
failure of the roysJ line, it can, in conjunction wil^ Sweden, elect a
new dynasty.
The first step taken by the Storthing, after it has been duly con-
stituted, is to elect the Lagthing, This is done by choosing from
among the members of the entire body one-fourth of their number.
The fdnctions of this section are deliberative, and judicial in cases of
impeachment. The other three-fourths constitute the Odelsthing : all
enactments must be initiated in this section either by the Government or
a member of the Odelsthing. After a bill has been passed in the Odels-
thing, it is sent to the Lagthing, where it is deliberated upon, passed,
rejected, or sent back with amendments to the Odelsthing. After
being agreed to, it requires the sanction of the King before it can
acquire the force of a legal enactment. But if (except in cases affecting
the Constitution, as shown under "History*') a bill passes through
both divisions in three successive Storthings, it becomes on the third
occasion the law of the land without the royal assent. The law for
the aboHtion of hereditary nobility was passed by the exercise of that
right in 1821. Only one count and four or five barons survive, and
within a few years no titles of nobility will remain in existence.
Since 1884 the political franchise has been bestowed in a demo-
cratic direction on every native Norwegian, twenty-five years of age,
who has for five years been and stiU is domiciled in the coimtry, or
(a) who is or has been a public official ; or (6) who owns or for more
than five years has rented a registered parcel of land, or who has
during five consecutive years been or still is in the enjoyment of such
land ; or (c) who has for five years and still is, in Finmarken, a voter
in virtue of certain contributions regulated bv law ; or {d) who is a
burgess or rents in a town or shipping (loading) station a house or
land of the value of at least 88Z. 6«. 8^. ; or (e) who has during the
preceding year paid direct taxes (not yet existing) to the State or to a
commune on an assumed income of at least 277. 15«. 6e2. in rural
districts, or at least 44?. 9«. in towns and at shipping stations, and who
shall have been domiciled for one year in the district in which the
Section takes place, without belonging to another household. An oath
of fidelity to the Constitution must be taken before the franchise can
be exercised.
• For the purpose of electing deputies to the Storthing the kingdom
Oovemment, &c. [23]
together with the Bishops of those Dioceses (Stift)^ form the SUfta-
direMion, the superior authority in each 8tift, or ecclesiastical pro-
vince.
The Prefectures are subdivided into fifty-six BaiH wicks (Fogderier),
in each of which is a Foged (Baillie), who sees to the collection of
taxes, and watches, as PoHcemaster, over the pubhc safety, acts as
paymaster under the orders of the Prefect or a public department,
carries out sentences, &c. Under him, in each Tmglag (judicial dis-
trict) is a Lenamcmd (Bural Mayor), who acts as a police official and
assists generally the Foged, looks after the roads, holds auctions,
enforces small claims, &c. In towns the corresponding functions
appertain to a Burgomaster, who at Christiania and Bergen is assisted
by two Councillors and a special PoHcemaster. In the smaller towns
the magisterial duties are generally combined with those of the Foged,
The thirty-eight towns and the twenty not yet incorporated " loading
stations " constitute together fifty-eight Urban Communes, while the
fifty-six Bailiwicks are divided into 494 Bural Communes or Cantons
{Herred), A Council [Forma/ndslcab) consisting of three to nine mem-
bers in the rural districts, and of four to twelve in towns (Christiania
alone having fifteen), is elected annually in each Commune by qualified
voters, together with a Bepresentative Body {Bejprcesenta/ntahab), with
three times the number of members on the Council. These deal with
all local, financial, and economic matters. There is, moreover, in each
Prefecture a Prefectoral Council (Amtati/ng), that meets every year, in
summer, for not more than ten days, to discuss and settle local affairs
relating to the entire district. It is composed of the chairman or vice-
chairman of each Herred, as well as of the Baillies and the Prefect.
In educational matters the Director of the District Schools attends.
This body audits the accounts of the Prefecture and transacts much
other business previously reported upon by special committees.
3. The Beligion of Norway is Episcopal Lutheran. It remains in
exactly the same state as that in which it was originally moulded after
the subversion of Boman Catholicism ; but within the last few years a
new liturgy has been introduced. Its optional adoption by congrega-
tions is not conducive to uniformity in worship. No places of worship
belonging to other creeds were permitted to exist until 1845, when an
Act of general toleration was passed, giving religious liberty to all
Christians, but stigmatising as ^* Dissenters " all persons belonging to
any other Church, creed, or behef than the Established Church of
Norway. Even members of the Church of England, which, when
Boman Catholic, was the first to bring Christianity to Norway, are
" Dissenters " as much as Baptists, Plymouth Brethren, Jews, and
** infidels*' generally. Another Act (1861) admitted Jews to the
country on conditions of equaUty with Christians. There are small
Boman Catholic congregations at Christiania, Bergen, and Hammer -
fest, but they do not make many proselytes. Dissent from the Estab-
lished Church is gaining much ground £rom causes similar to those in
England, until the activity and the spirit of the clergy of the Church
of England began to pass through a happy reformation. Almost every
dissenting sect is represented in Norway, including even the Mormons,
Vfbo ^e, however, not allowed to practise polygamy in the country,
[24] Oovemmenty &c.
and therefore emigrate in small contingents to North America. After
the lapse of eight centuries since the building of a church and monas-
tery on an island close to Ohristiania, by Cistercian monks from Kirk-
stead, in Lincoln, the Anglican Church once more rears her head in
Norway.^
The clergy, speaking generally, are a well-educated class of men,
many of them being acquainted with the literature of Europe and
familiar with standard works in the German and English languages.
A few can still converse in Latin, but this classical qualification has
for some time been strongly on the decline. Taking into account the
value of money in the country, their incomes are good, the average
of the livings being 135^. to 180Z. per annum, with a good house and
some land.
Norway is divided into sixteen Bishoprics (Stift), and more than
400 parishes, some of which are very extensive.
The ecclesiastical patronage is vested in the Crown, subject to the
recommendations of the State Council.
4. Public Instruction. — In this respect Norway is in the foremost
rank among the nations of Europe ; nearly every Norwegian, male or
female, can read, and the greater part can also write. A desire to
acquire further instruction is steadily on the increase. In 1889 a law
was passed making it compulsory to send all children (not receiving
elsewhere education at least equivalent) to the National Schools. In
rural districts the ages for such instruction are from seven years
(complete) to fifteen years, and in towns from six and a-half to fifteen.
For seven years no school fees are payable. Fines are imposed for
non-attendance, unless sufficient reason be given. The object of the
National Schools ^established in sufficient numbers) is " to co-operate
in the Christian education of children and to impart to them such
general instruction as shall be common to aU classes of society.'* Each
Herred (Canton) is divided iuto "school districts,*' each with a
National School, consisting of two divisions, one for children between
seven and ten, and the other for those who are ten to fourteen years
old.'^ In each class instruction must be given during twelve weeks in
the year, and the local educational authorities may increase the
number of weeks to fifteen. They are also empowered to establish
one or more Continuation Schools (in combination, if necessary, with
neighbouring Cantons). The course of instruction in such schools lasts
one to six months, and is attended by youths of fourteen to eighteen.
As a rule, special buildings are erected or rented for such purposes,
but ambulatory arrangements are frequently made in the case of
schools for the smaller children, and sometimes for those of the second
division.
The School Board established in each Canton is composed of the
Dean or resident Chaplain (according to the pleasure of the diocesan),
the chairman of the Local Council, of an elected male or female
teacher in the National Schools, and of as many other members as the
* See " Ohristiania " for St. Edmund's Church.
^ In towns there are three divisions, and the total of the vacations is
twelve weeks,
Governments &c. [26]
Cantonal Council may deem requisite. The post of teacher is open to
either sex, affcer examination, and on condition of the candidate
belonging to the State Church.
Although the National Schools are supported generally out ox
cantonal fdnds, yet they receive in each case a subvention from the
State. Funds are also contributed by the several Prefectures for the
building of schools, for additional pay to teachers, and towards the sup-
port of Continuation Schools, Handicrafts Schools, &c.
In 1887 the total number of children subject to compulsory educa-
tion at school was 294,064, of whom 221,444 belonged to rural districts,
in which the school districts numbered 5,290. The total expenditure
for the lower National Schools amounted in the rural districts to about
172,000?. (of which 28 per cent, was contributed out of public funds),
and that in towns to about 72,0002. The cost per pupil was severally
158. Gd. and 34^. 6d, per annum.
In 1889 there were thirty-seven higher schools of various descrip-
tions, in addition to private schools, with a corresponding standard of
instruction ; and seventeen public State -supported establishments for
University candidates.
The University will be further mentioned under " Christiania.*'
Great importance is attached to the ceremony of Confirmation m
Norway, prior to which the applicants undergo a long and careful
course of religious instruction, and are subjected to rigid examination,
both public and private, by the clergy of their respective parishes.
Confirmation by a priest (not by a bishop) is an essential preliminary to
holding situations, not only in the Civil Service, but also in offices,
shops, &c.
5. Justice. — Civil suits are in the first instance brought before the
Lower Courts (TJnderretterne), of which there are thirty-seven in
towns and eighty-one in the rural districts. In the former, the judge
is the Mayor or " BaiUie '* (Byfoged), who is frequently also Police-
master; and in the rural districts the Sorenslcriver (Cantonal Judge).
They decide all cases personally, except those relating to OdeUret
(Allodial Law), and to disputes about property. They are assisted by
the presence of four jurymen {Meddomsmcend)^ who do not, however,
take part in the proceedings or in pronouncing judgment. The eighty -
one Cantonal Law Circuits (Sorensfriverier) are divided into 427 Tinglag
(Courts of Assize), in which assizes are held two or three times during
the year. An assize is, moreover, held as a rule once a month for the
entire Cantonal Circuit. In towns, the Byti/ngene are held weekly.
An appeal lies from these Courts to the Superior Courts {Overret)
at Christiania, Bergen, and Trondhjem, each of which is composed of a
President and two assessors. At Christiania there is also a Byret
(City Court), with a President and eleven assessors ; and although its
functions are those of a Court of First Instance, yet an appeal lies
direct from it to the High Court of Justice (Hoieateret) at Christiania,
the third and last Court of Appeal, composed of a JuaUtiarinis and
eight assessors.
Before any civil cause can be brought for trial there must be an
attempt at arrangement before a Commission of Conciliation, estab-
lished in almost every Commxme, and which also has in minor cases
[26] Oovemmenty &c,
of debt, &o., to give judgment. When the attempt fails (as it gener-
ally does, owing to the litigious character of the people ^) the plaintiff
applies to a Court of Law, in which the proceedings are not oral, but in
writing, and last a considerable time, both parties having an ahnost
indefinite leisure for refuting each other's statements. At last the
case is declared ripe for judgment, which must be given within the
subsequent six weeks. There are, however, exceptions to this mode of
procedure, in the matter of bills, shipping cases, masters and servants,
&c. In the High Court of Justice the proceedings are generally oral,
and every person can conduct his own case before that tribunal, as
well as before the Lower Courts. Advocates and solicitors are, how-
ever, generally employed. The legal profession is a very flourishing
one.
Since 1890, the jury system has been introduced in eriminal cases.
These are subject to the following tribunals : {a) Court of Interro-
gatory (the French Instruction), composed of one inferior judge (at
Christiania, of a member of the City Court, and at Bergen and
Trondhjem, of special criminal judges), whose duty is to prepare the case
by collecting information, examining witnesses, &c., and who, with the
consent of the accused and on his admissions, when proved to be
correct, can pronounce judgment without sending the prisoner for trial
by (6) the Meddomsret, composed of an inferior judge and two jury-
men, who pronounce judgment and sentences in common. The lesser
crimes — Le, the majority of criminal cases — are tried before these
Courts, which are established within the district of each inferior judge,
as well as in each Sorenshrweri and town. The highest criminal
Court is the Lagmcrndsret, or Court of Assize, held at least four times
a year in each Lagsogn (District), and composed of a President {Lag-
mand) and two judges learned in the law (not being members of the
High Court of Justice). This Court is assisted by ten jurymen
(Lagrettemcend), who must possess the political franchise or be eligible
to local government offices, or be more than twenty-five years of age,
and have paid, during the year previous to being placed on the jury
list, a direct tax of at least As, 5d, in the rural districts, and &s, lOd, in
a town. No juryman can be challenged after the Court has been
constituted by election, and by a process of weeding entrusted to the
Lagma/nd and the Crown Advocate (Prosecutor). The proceedings are
oral, the witnesses being examined and cross-examined as in English
Courts. A verdict of guilty can be given only by a majority of seven
out of the ten jurymen, their votes being held secret. The Court may,
however, whatever be the verdict, send the case for trial again before
^w Lagmansthvng, and appeal can be made to the High Court of
In fact, the new law admits of criminal cases being carried
from SotBsMo Court with much facility. The King enjoys the pre-
rogative of pardon, and rarely signs a death sentence.
Although reduced in recent years, the punishments for crime are
still amongst the most severe in Europe. This, added to an inherent
leniency towards transgressors (proceeding perhaps from wide mter-
relationship between all classes of the community), renders somewhat
* The same characteristic is observable Jn Norm an dv.
Geography^ Geology^ Mineralogy, &c, [27]
doiibtfiil the fature benefits of the new jury system, which is also
objected to as having replaced trial by judges and assessors who have
been beyond reproach, except in regard to dilatoriness, and as inflict-
ing on the country a great material loss hj deflecting labour from fields
and trades in order to form juries, in imitation of countries in which
trial by jury was indigenous and a necessary ancient safeguard.
The penalUea are death (by decapitation with a sword), hard labour
for life, or for periods varying (in five degrees), between fifteen years
and six months, imprisonment with ordinary prison feure or on bread
and water (for four, out of seven days in the week), and fines.
III. Oeography, Oeolog^, Mineralogy, Climate,
Botany, Zoology.
1. Geography. — Occupying the northern and western portions of the
Scandinavian Peninsula, the Kingdom of Norway lies between 57^ 57^
and 71° 12' N. lat., and 4° 30' and 31° 3' long. E. of Greenwich, and
is the most northerly State in the world. Ckristiama, the capital, lies
almost on the same degree of latitude (60°) as St. Petersburg. The
difference in time between the extreme points of Norway is 1 h. 44 m.
Its length, from LindesnsBS (the Naze) to the N. Cape, with Namsos
as an approximate central point, is nearly 1086 nules.^ In width
it varies greatly : tolerably equal and considerable (up to 260 m.) be-
tween 59 and 62° N. lat., it lessens rapidly both to the N. and S.
The northern portion of Norway is in foct almost only a strip of
coast, frequently narrowing to 29 m., and at one place (from the head
of the Ofotenfjord) to about 6 m. In Finmarken, however, the
territory of Norway becomes considerably wider. Its total approxi-
mate area is 124,535 sq. m., of which about one-third is withm the
Polar Circle. The land frontier is 1575 m. in length, 1035 m. being
common with Sweden. With Bussia, Norway is conterminous on
the Jacobs Elv (or river), partly also on the Pasvik; and with
the Grand Duchy of Finland along the Tana and the Pasvik
rivers, to the N. boundary of Sweden. A small wedge of Finland has
been driven in between the United Kingdoms of Norway and Sweden,
and approaches the head of the Lyngenfjord, on the Atlantic coast,
within 18 m. The greater part of the Norwegian coast is fringed by
the Skjcergaa/rdf or belt of rocks and islands, the most important of the
latter being those of the Lofoten group.
The country is divided by a mountainous backbone, running
almost parallel with the W. coast. This forms the principal watershed,
which from olden times has caused Norway to be geographically
divided into three natural sections, called severally — the Norden-
fjeldahe^ W. of the great Kjolen chain and N. of the Dovrefjeld, from
the Finland frontier to the Bomdalsfjord ; the Veatenfjeldskef W. of
the Langfjeldene and their southern continuation from the Bomsdal-
f jord to LindesnsBS (a comparatively narrow coast line, generally like
the Nordenfjeld district) ; and the Simdenfjeldshe (or datkmdet, East
* When miles (m.) are mentioned in this book, only English miles are
fueant, The feet (ft.) are also EngUsh-.
[28] Oeography, Geology, Mineralogy^ &c.
Land), which includes the territory S. of the Dovrefjeld and E. of
the Langfjeld range. It is impossible within the compass of a Hand-
book for Travellers to give a minute account of all the physico -geo-
graphical features of a country, but in the case of Norway it seems
essential to describe at some length the mountains which impart to
it a special attraction.
The mountain masses of Norway do not present any distinctly
marked articulation, yet, chiefly on geological grounds, they are
divided into the following groups :
A. The Bjolen, the long and generally elevated chain that rises in
Bussian Lapland, and which, from the Tana river to the Faksefjeld,
follows mainly the frontier of Norway with Sweden and Finland, form-
ing the watershed between the Polar Ocean and the " Norwegian Sea **
(Atlantic) on the one side and the Gulf of Bothnia on the other. Its
direction, originally S.W., gradually becomes more southerly, and on
the FakseQeld, where it runs into Sweden, south-easterly. It has no
great height in the N. part of Finmarken, but farther S. rises very
considerably, exhibiting a great number of peaks that attain a height
of 4000-6000 ft., the highest being that of SuUtjelma (6166 ft.), on
the boundary between the sister kmgdoms. S. of this again rise the
Ohstmdeme and the Store (Great) Borgefjeld, the latter with glaciers
covering a total area of 147 sq. m. In the Bailiwick of Namdalen,
the ridge of the Kjolen sinks, and several large lakes encroach upon
it both on the Norwegian and the Swedish side ; but farther S. it
gains considerably in height and grandeur, the highest points being
Sjcekerhatten and Syltoppene (6870 ft.) and the Vigelfjeldy E. of
Boros. In this portion also the Kjolen ridge presents deep depres-
sions, with passes of 1650 to 2800 ft. Through one of these {Skurdala-
porten) runs the Meraker railway from Trondhjem to Stockholm,
while two other passes enable high roads to run from Levanger, through
VsBrdalen, to Jemtland in Sweden, and from Boros to HerjeMalen,
likewise in the sister kingdom. The highest points in the southern-
most part of the Kjolen are the Svukufjeld (4660 ft.), the Fulufjeld
and the Faksefjeld,
B. The districts W. of the ^olen range are composed mostly of bare
fjelds stretching out from the Kjolen and, farther S., partly from the
Dovre. As far as the Porsangerfjord, the eastern part of Finmarken
is a vast territory dotted with lakes and big boulders, but otherwise
monotonous, and with the exception, for instance, of the Varanger
fiord, treeless, and characterised by platecmx exceedingly bare. On
the Finmarken hergslette (mountainous plateau), averaging 985 ft. in
height, a few peaks (as, for instance, the Oataeme, in the Tana ijord)
rise to about 2000 ft.
S. of the Porsangerfjord, as far as the Bindalsfjord, the country
assumes a generally wild character of much grandeur. Numerous
fjords run into the mountain spurs on the mainland, as well as
into many of the islands along the coast. The mountain-chain
that runs along the coasts of Nordland and Finmarken up to the
N. boundary of the Trondhjem Stifb (eccles. prov.) is distinguished
principally by the N, Cape on Magero (island), which, from an
elevation of 984 ft., descends abruptly to the Polar Ocean; by the
Qeographyy Geohgy, Mmeralogyy &c. [29]
KnivsTcjcBTodtde, on the same island and a little more northerly
than the Cape, although lower and not so striking to the eye ; by the
SeilcmdsbrcB, on Seiland island, the northernmost glacier in
Europe ; by the Jokelfjeldene in the Kvsenangfjord, from which the
johel (glaciers) come down in some places to the water's edge ; by the
gr&nd Lyngen-Alper, in the Lyngenfjord, with the Jcegge-Varre, the
highest peak in N. Norway (over 6600 ft.), and by the equally well-
known pinnacles of Goalse-Va/rre, JcBgervandstmdeme, &o. To the
same rajige belong — the high, partly snow-clad, peaks on the Lofoten
and Yesteraalen islands, as well as Moaadlen and the Fishetind (a
very pointed peak) on Hindo island ; Vaagehallen and Madmoderen on
Ostvaago (island), and Himmeltindeme on Vestvaago ; the majestic
fjelds on Landegode island; the Bota (Kunna) (about 2000 ft.), a
rounded promontory jutting iax out into the sea ; the Hoitinden in
Salten; Svartisen, on the boundary between Salten and Helgoland,
the next largest glacier on the Continent of Europe, covering an area
of about 309 sq. m., and shooting out immense johel almost down to
the sea-level ; Bodoloven and Trcenstaveuj two peculiar mountains on
Bodo and Trsenen islands ; Hestmanden (on the island of the same
name), through which the Polar Circle passes, and which, when seen
from a certain point, represents roughly the figure of a cloaked horse-
man (whence the name) ; Lovtmden, Dynnesfjeld on Dynneso (island) ;
the Syv Soatre (Seven Sisters) on Alsteno ; Brv/rakanken in Vefsen ;
Torghatten on Torg island, in shape like a low-crowned hat, and with
a remarkable natural tunnel ruiming through it ; and, lastly, Lekomden
on Leko island. The greater part of all the above mountains are
important landmarks, often seen at a great distance. Many of them
rise up to 3300 ft., and some higher ; and they are nearly all remark-
able for their peculiar Alpine forms, which give to that part of the
Norwegian coast a singular and highly attractive character, notwith-
standing their bleak and sombre aspect. The land between the chain
nmning along the coast and the Kjolen range forms (especially towards
the S.) a series of more or less broad and fertile river- valleys, of which
the direction is principally from N. to S., or vice versa.
The rest of the Nordenf jeldske formation is of a less wild and rocky
character, and consists chiefly of somewhat low-lying woodlands, not
very different from the SondeniQeldske country. The inland districts off
the Trondhjemsf jord are intersected by many valleys, generally wide and
fertile, and stretching out at their lower extremities into extensive
plains, similar in many respects to the richest lowlands in S. Norway.
C. The Trondlijem plateau includes the wide uncultivated tract
which is bounded on the W. by the valley of the Tonna (an affluent
of the Orkla and Glommen) ; on the N.W. by the flat plains in the
Trondhjemsf jord ; on the N. by Vserdalen ; on the E. by the southern-
most part of the Kjolen range, and which towards the S. extends
almost to Tonset in Osterdalen. The average elevation of this great
moimtain-plateau (one of the most important watersheds of the Scan-
dinavian peninsula) is about 2000 ft. in the N., and in the S. part
about 3100 ft. Some of its peaks (like the Forelhogna and Stors-
hcurven) rise 4200-4900 ft. The railway between Christiania and
Trondhjem passes over this plateau.
[30] Oeography^ Geology y Mineralogy ^ &c>
D. The Dovref jeld is a name locally given to that part of the molin*
tainous country which lies between Orkedalen and Gudbrandsdalen.
Geographically, however, the Dovre comprises the broad and elevated
moimtainons region which is bounded on the E. by the valleys of the
Tonna and Orlda, by a line drawn from Tonset ch. over Yaage ch.,
and then running along the Ottavand and the valley of its affluent,
the Bovra, to the Lysterfjord ; in other directions it is bounded by
the Sognefjord, the ocean, the Surendalsfjord, and the valleys rising
therefrom. The Dovre, therefore, embraces a very considerable part
of the interior of the country. From N.W. to S.E. it is intersected by
the valleys of the Bauma and the Laagen, the highest point dividing
the two latter being 2034 fb.
The Dovres fjeldmva/rk is a tolerably even plateau (averaging about
3600 ft.) in the E. part of the Dovre, stretching to the Driva on the W.,
and to the Laagen on the S.W. Some of its summits, such as the
Pighcetta and the Knutsho (celebrated for its rich Alpine flora), are
over 5300 ft. high. This is the Dovre fjeld, over which one of the high
roads between Christiania and Trondhjem passes, and of which the
elevation culminates at 4100 ft. The highest part of the Dovres
hoifjelde lies W. of the Driva, with Snehcetta (7610 ft.), long considered
as the highest point in Norway, Skredaho (of about the same height),
and Skrimskolla (6560 ft.), all covered with immense snow-fields.
Farther N. and N.W. extend several high and wild mountain-groups,
amongst them Troldheimen, S. of Surendal and the Sundala-fjeldene^
on both sides of the Sundal valley. To the W. again, the Bomsdals-
alpeme enclose the narrow gorge of the Eauma, and the Era, giving
rise to a number of peaks (partly inaccessible), of which more especi-
ally the Bomsdalshomf on the N. side of the r., and the picturesque
Troldtvnder (on the S. bank) are famous. Farther S. the Loms-
fjeldene rise in peaks, known as the Hestbrcepiggene and the pointed-
roof shaped Lomseg, to a height of 5900 ft. to 6900 ft.
Towards the W. the Dovre spreads out in many large, high, and
(to a considerable extent) snow-clad peninsulas, separated by the deep,
long ^ords in the prefectures of N. Bergenhus and Romsdal. Between
the Storfjord and the Nordfjord rise the HornvngsdaU- fjeldene,
in which the Hommgsdals-rolclcen, a curiously Bh&]ped fjeld connecting
several smaller projecting peninsulas, rises in several peaks to a height
of 5300. ft. to 5600 ft. To the southward, on the Jostedah-brce penin-
sula, between the Nordfjord and the Sognefjord, stretches out the
glacier of that name {JostedaUbrceen), the largest both in Norway and
on the European continent, and not less than 500 sq. m. in area.
The lowest margin of the glacier has an elevation varying from
1000 ft. to 4600 ft., but several of its branches run down to 165-
425 ft. above the sea, and to about 5 m. from shore of the fjord. These,
called Suphellebrceen and BojiombrcBen, are in the Fjserlandsf jord. A
few others, such as the Niga/rsbrce in the Jostedal, have in their descent
done injury to cultivated fields. The Lodalskaapa rises out of the
northern part of the Jostedals-brse snow-fields to a height of 6560 ft.
E. The series of high mountain-lands geographically known as the
Langljeldene extend from the valleys of the Vaage and the Lom in
the N. to Bykle, the most elevated point in Ssetersdalen on the S.,
Oeography, Geology^ Mmeratoyyj &c. [31]
whence they decline towards the inner arms of the Stavangerigo^^*
The principal groups of this range are —
(a) The Jotunfjeld-ene^ the highest and the wildest mountain^for-
mations, not only in Norway, but in the whole of Europe, excepting
the Alps and Carpathians.
They extend southwards to the Bygdin and Tyin lakes, with a
length and breadth of about 38 m., and this grand and wild Alpine
region well deserves the appellation of Jottmhevm (the home of the Nor-
wegian mythological gia/nta), given to the mtns. in 1820 by Keilhau and
Chr. Boeck, who were the first to explore them and make them known.
Lake Gjende, in the midst of the Jotun Mtns. had, however, been visited
in 1812 and 1813 by Chr. Smith, the botanist. More than one hundred
of the summits in the Jotunheim rise in bold peaks (not all ascended)
to a height of over 6000 ft., while between the frowning colossal
moimtain-masses spread out on all sides glittering glaciers or deep
valleys and hollows (botner), occupied mostly by large and deep lakes.
Ainong the many known elevated points of the Jotun Mtns. (the
greater number of which afford views of indescribable grandeur) the prin-
cipal are — Store (great) Galdhopiggen^ the highest summit of the Ymes-
fjeldf and which, rising to 8397 ft., is assumed to be the most elevated
point in Norway ; the Glitretind (about 30 ft. lower) ; the Knutahul-
tvnd ; the Bessho, whence the narrow Besaeg runs between the Bessva/nd
(lake) and Lake Ojende; the SJcagestolstindeme and Hortmgeme — a
succession of peaks. More than sixty great snow-fields (glaciers), (such
as Smoratahhrceen, Fcma/rdaken, GaldhobrcBeme, and Memurubrceen),
spread out between those mtns., which are in many cases too steep
to allow snow to remain on them. The mtn.-huts set up in the
Jotuntjeld wiU be mentioned in the appropriate parts of this Hand-
book.
(b) The Fillefjeld lies S. of the Jotun group. The name is given
locally to that part of the f jeld over which the northern highway be-
tween Christiania and Bergen passes, on the section from Valders
to Laerdal in Sogn bailiwick. The highest point between the well-
known mtn. posting- stations of Nystuen and Maristuen is 3294 ft.
Among the many known mtn.-tops on the Fillefjeld, the most
remarkable are the Suleti/nd (5806 ft.) and Stugwnoaet (4825 ft.)
(c) The HemsedaU-fjeldene is the name given to that part of the
Lang-§eld which is traversed by the high road from HaUingdal to
Sogn, with a maximum height of 3706 ft. We need mention among the
numerous snow-clad summits of these mtns., only Juheleggen (6300 ft.),
marking the limits of three prefectures (Christian, Buskerud, and
N. Bergenhus), and, farther S., the great snow-field: Baubergskarven.
(d) The HalUngdaU-fjeldene embrace the mountain country from
the Hemsedals-fjeldene southwards up to the Hardanger-vidda
(waste). The best known elevated points on these mtns. axe Hailing-
aka/rven, a long mtn. ridge, Ha/rdangerjokelen, Vasfjceren^ and Vosse-
skoA^lerij all about 6560 ft. high, and covered with large glaciers
(snebrcs),
(e) After the Langfjeldene have sunk into the great mtn. waste
(Hardcmger-vidden) above mentioned, they rise again ABtheHardanger-
fjeldene (in the S.W. part of those mtns.) in high summits, amongst
[32] Geography^ Geology, Mineralogyy &c.
which the most remarkable are the Haa/rteig, a oylindrioal mass
(5610 ft.), and the Treafonn^ Solfonn, and Kroiform.
From these mtns. sprmgs in a S.W. direction a high ridge, forming
the BdldaU'fjeldene, with the HoAikeU-fjeld and Bykle-fjeldenej which
descend towards the inner branches of the Stavanger fjord, and,
in Dskct, terminate the Lcmgfjeldene. The sonthem highway to the
Hardanger fjord (the Yestenfjeldske coimtry) rons over the Boldal
mtns. past the HauheU-scetery or mtn. posting-station. Vasdalseggen
rises to a height of 5545 ft., at the point at which meet the four
prefectures of S. Bergenhus, Stavanger, Nedenses, and Bratsberg.
F. A highland-plateau (Oplandenes hoislette) extends southwards
between the Langfjeld range and the S. part of the Ejolen, from which
it is separated by a series of lakes (Aarsundsjo, Faemunsjo, &c.), and
by the valley of the Tryssil. On the N. it is conterminous with the
Trondhjem Plateau (see G) and the Dovre. From these it is separated
by a chain of elevated mtns., amongst which are noticeable the Hum,-
melfjeld in Tolgen, Tronfjeld in Tonset, Bondcme (an extremely
grand Alpine mass between Osterdalen and Gudbrandsdalen, rising to
nearly 7000 ft.), and the Jettafjeld in Vaage.
Extending for some distance, with an average height of 8600 ft.,
the plateau in question (partly wild in character and cut up by several
deep valleys) sinks gradually southwards and to an average of
1650 ffc., descending at last to the Tyri-fjord and to the vicinity of
Kongsberg. On this section the Norefjeld (W. of Krdderen) rises
to a height of 4950 ft.
G. The Hardanger-vidda (Ha/rdcmger-vidden), S.W. from the
plateau just described, is the southernmost and highest plateau in
Norway. It terminates on the W. at the Eidfjord and the Sorfjord
(the innermost branches of the Hardanger-fjord), while on the E. it is
bounded by several large lakes in Numedal and Telemarken, such as
the Paalsbufjord, Maarvand, Mjosvand, Totakvand, &c. Southwards it
extends, approximately, to a Ime between the Totakvand and Eoldal.
With a length and breadth of about 55 m., its average height is about
4000 ft. It is distinguished by its unusual flatness and by the many
lakes, rich in fish, which chequer it.
W. of the Ha/rdanger-vidda, and separated from it by the Sorfjord
and by the valleys running thence towards Boldal, rises the great
Folgefonn peninsula, surrounded on the W., N., and E. by the Hardanger-
fjord, and on the S. partly by the Aakrefjord, one of the branches of
the latter. A considerable part of this peninsula, steep on its E. side, is
occupied by the Folgefonn glacier {snebne) (108 sq. m.), the ridge
of which rises to a height of 5500 ft. above the sea-level, and from
which again descend a long way down the Bua/rbrce and several other
glaciers.
On the E. rise the Ovre Telema/rTcena fjelde (mtns. of Upper Tele*
marken). Intersected by a great number of valleys and large lakes,
the most celebrated elevations in these mountains are Gavstay with a
rounded summit (6170 ft.) and the Lifjeld, a large and elevated mtn,
mass N.E. of the Siljordsvand.
H. The SsBtersdal heier (plateaux) are southern and lower continua-
tions of the Ha/rdanger-mdda, These desolate, bare, and weather-
Oeographyy Geology, Mineralogy, &c. [33]
beaten mountain regions, which only occasionally rise to a height of
3300 ft., embrace extensive districts on both sides of the Ssetersdal
(almost the entire 8tift of Christiansand), and descend gently
towards LindesnsBs. Several valleys intersect the mtns., generally in a
S. direction.
I. The Kystland or coast-line west of the high mtn.-ridge from
the Bomsdalsfjord southwardSi is, together with certain parts of
Nordland, the prettiest and most impressive region in Norway. Its
long, narrow, and deep fjords, its narrow and steep-sided valleys, and
its thousands of isles and rocks torn from the mainland, present to the
eye a picture of disruption by mighty forces of nature, and at the same
time a landscape of grand and ever- varied beauty, almost unrivalled in
the world.
The northern part of the Veatenfjeldske^ from the Bomsdal to the
Sogne fjord, occupied by various of&hoots of the Dovre descending to
the edge of the coast, has more especially an aspect of grandeur,
derived in part from its bold, ragged mtn. features. We may mention
the StatlaJndet peninsula, jutting &r out in the sea, the turreted,
wall -shaped Homelen mtn. on Bremangerland island, the islands of
Batcdden^ Skorpaf Kinn (with the extraordinary split Kvnnekloven
mtn.), and Alden (with the Norske heat, or horse). These and many
other mtns. look very picturesque from the sea. On the other hand,
the coast between the Sogne and the Stavanger fjord, intersected
by spurs of the Langf jeld mtns., is on the whole lower and of less
grand aspect. Between Stavanger and Lindesnses intervenes the low
coast of JcBderen and Liaterland, very different in character from
that of the Yestland. Its lower stratum is composed of loose earth,
peat-bog, clay, and sand, and the highest elevations do not exceed
1650 ft.
K. The lower dstland (Eastland), or SondenQeldske country, is of
a totally different aspect from the Norderi' and the Vesten-fjeldaJce,
The hills have mostly rounded and wooded tops of no great height ; the
valleys are broader, and not nnfrequently expand into wide pliuns ; the
rivers flow less rapidly, and often spread out into lakes ; the coast is
low, uniform, and without many conspicuous landmarks ; and altogether
the natural features are softer, and certainly £Eur less grand. This is
the flattest, most fertile, and best populated part of Norway. Farther,
however, to the S.W., towards the flat highlands of Saetersdalen, the
country is, as a rule, hilly and arid, with narrow, steep-sided
valleys and some bare mtns., fax inferior in grandeur to those of the
Vestenfjeldske district. This is, therefore, the most desolate, the
poorest, and the least attractive part of the Oatla/nd,
The other salient geographical features of Norway (fjords or firths,
lakes, rivers, waterfalls) are reserved for ^description in the Sections
that deal with Boutes.
Although it is intended that the ICaps attached to this work should
supply the tourist, as well as the sportsman, with all the information
he may require in pursuit of his object, yet it is necessary to add, for
the benefit of the more ambitious explorer or mountain-climber, that
tiie Norwegian Survey Office has issued a series of excellent maps of
prefectures (Amtka/rter), charts (recently revised) of the entire coast
[Norway— yi. 92.] ^
[84] Geography^ Oeology^ Mineralogy, &c,
from Syinestind (on the Swedish frontier) to the Jaoobs-elv (on the
bonndfury of Bussia), several sheets of a large map on the scale of
1 : 100,000 (Bektangelkarter), as well as a general map of Southern
Norway (Qeneralkart), a series of geological maps, &c. Professor J. A.
Friis, the great Lappish scholar and explorer, has published a valuable
series of maps relating principally to the ethnology of the prefecture
of Tromso and Finmarken. They also show the rivers which are
frequented by salmon, and the distances to which the latter ascend.
AU these maps and charts are obtainable at any Tourist-Agent Office,
and from all booksellers in the principal towns of Norway.
2. Geology. — The whole Scandinavian peninsula is highly in-
teresting to the geologist and mineralogist, although Sweden is much
richer in minerals. Norway and Lapland are chiefly composed of gran-
itic and metamorphic rocks. The prevailing primary rock is gneiss,
which sometimes alternates with granite. Mica-slate ako abounds, and
is associated with the gneiss ; while in beds subordinate to both are
limestone, quartz, and hornblende. The plateaux of the mountains
are often covered with blocks of a conglomerate rock, in which pebbles
of quartz, felspar, &c., are embedded, and which, being smooth and
roimded, have evidently been, during a remote but lengthened period,
subject to violent friction. Vast deposits of till and boulder-clay abound
in aU the lower valleys. Nearly all the larger valleys that open to the
sea or the fjords are terraced with these. They form series of steps,
usually rising to about 600 ft. above the present sea-level.
Many of these steps spread out as large level fertile areas on which
are located some of the best farms in Norwav. Fine examples may
be seen by the tourist who drives or walks from Trondhjem to visit
the falls of the Nid, and from the railway between Trondhjem and
Storen. The glacial origin of all these clays is proved by the striated
boulders they contain. Another remarkable deposit, not clayey, covers
most of the fields and upper levels. It differs very matericJly from
boulder-clay, oeing quite loose and gravelly. It differs also from
moraines, not being heaped at all, and containing fax more sandy
material. A similar de^sit, reaching down to Sie sea-level, and
covering the old beds of mmor glaciers, forms the scanty soH of the small
farms in northern Norway. The entire country stands pre-eminent as
a field for the study of the vestiges of ancient glaciation. There is no
doubt that it wsus at one time as completely ice-bound as Greenland is
at present.
3. Mineralogy. — Norway is not so rich as Sweden in minerals, but
the development of railways and canals (especially in Telemarken)
will no doubt render profitable the extension of Tm'ning operations. The
principal metals at present extracted are : 1. Oold, found in small
quantities in the quartz-veins around Eidsvold and (in recent years) on
Bommel island (W. coast). It has also been found in the alluvial de-
posits of the Alten and Tana and their tributaries (in the N.) 2. Native
aiher is raised from mines in the Kongsberg district, among the richest
m Europe, and where it frequently occurs in large pure masses of a
cwt. and more. Silver ore of various kinds is also foimd in a few places
such as Kongsberg, Svenningdal, and Hatf jelddal in Nordltmd, and on
Hitteren island on the W. coast. 8. Iron ores are widely deposited,
Geography y Oeologyy Mineralogy y &c. [35]
the principal mines of purest iron being on the coast of Bamle and
Nedenses, and more particularly at Kragero, Tvedestrand, and Arendal
(Christiania fjord). Pyrites, used in the manufacture of sulphuric acid,
is somewhat abundant on Karmo (island), in the Hardangerfjord, in
Foldalen, and Meldalen, as well as on Ytteroen (an island near Tron-
dhjem). 4. Several varieties of copper ore (especially copper pyrites)
are raised from mines in the Roros and Meraker districts, on Ytteroen,
and at many other places, such as Karmo, Yaraldso, in the Hardanger
fjord, in Sogn, Sondfjord, Foldal, near Drammen and Arendal, in
Ssetersdalen, Nordland, and Alten. Special mention must be made of
the Bratsberg Copper Mines worked by an English company in Tele-
inarken, not £a.r from the shore of the great Bandak lake, now connected
by a canal and locks with the Christiania fjord, at Skien. 5. Nickel
is an important mineral product, especially in the form of magnetic
pyrites, and occurs chiefly in the S. of Norway. 6. Chrome ore is found
chiefly in the Eoros district, in Snarum, Sundalen, and in Banen (Nord-
land). 7. Lead and zinc occur here and there ; and 8. Mcmganese,
in small quantities, at Drobak (Christiania fjord), in Telemarken, and
near Christiansand.
Limestone^ for lime and partly for cement, is abimdant in the Chris-
tiania valley, at Drammen, in the Langesund fjord, on Lake Mjosen,
and at many other places on the W. and in the N. Very fine-grained
marble and serpentine are now quarried in Nordland, at Hop, near
Bergen, and in the vicinity of Drammen ; and granite at Frederikstad
and Christiania, as well as in the Iddefjord. Felspar, used in the manu-
facture of porcelain, is very generally found in the mtns., and in recent
years in Smaalenene (E. of Christiania fjord) and on the coast between
Langesund and Grimstad on the same fjord, ^jpa^^, a mineral much
used for artificial manure, is more especially raised and widely ex-
ported on the coast from Bamle to Bisor (Christiania fjord). Service-
able coal has so far not been discovered. Ice may be appropriately
included in this section as an important article of export, specially
from the Christiania fjord.
Of the great number of m4/neral springs in Norway, the most im-
portant are the two ferruginous springs at Modum and Eidsvold, and
the sulphur spring at Sandefjord, all neEu: Christiania. A sulphurous
spring, several ferruginous springs, and a saline spring are of great
repute at Laurvig, next to Sandefjord.
4. Climate. — Since about one -third of the area of the kingdom lies
within the cold zone and the remainder in the northernmost part of the
temperate zone, and, farther, as extensive stretches of the country
have a considerable altitude over the sea, the climate of Norway, taken
as a whole, is cold and severe. Yet, climatic conditions extending over
thirteen degrees of latitude must necessarily be very different in the
N. and the S. The isothermal lines run generaUy along the coast, whence
it follows that the districts contiguous to it are much favoured, whilst
warmth decreases, relatively, in a rapid manner towards the interior of
the country. The coldest districts are found in the inner parts of Fin-
marken, in the high, mountainous S.E. part of the S. Trondhjem prefect.,
and in the N. portion of Osterdalen. The mean annual temperature of
the country may be stated at 36*5° Fabr., but during the summer months
b2
[86] Oeography, Geology , Mineralogy^ &c.
the heat is often locally as great as or greater than that of England,
whilst in mid-winter the thermometer frequently marks, also locally,
many degrees below zero. Eesearches made(1876-78) by the Norwegian
North Atlantic Expedition will not permit us any longer to attribute the
relatively favourable climatic condition of Norway altogether to the
action of the Gidf Stream. A main cause is to be found in the mild S. W.
winds which blow along the W. coast, as a result of a constant baro-
metrical minimum in the " Norwegian Sea " (between Norway, the Faero
islands, Iceland, Jan Mayen, Spitzbergen, and the Bear (Cherry) islands.
These winds set in motion the warm north-flowing surface stream
of the North Atlantic, which, in its attempt to deflect eastwards (partly
owing to the earth's rotation), washes the much indented western shores
as far as the Russian frontier, and even beyond. Of great influence in
this respect are the hanks connected with the Nordhavs ha/rrier (N.
Atlantic barrier), a remarkable upheaval of the sea-bottom, which, with
a relatively small depth of little more than 1300 fb., nms across to the
Bear islsand, and Spitzbergen. The barrier extends S. to the mouth of
the Sognefjord, whence across to the Shetlands lie the ha/n7cs which, con-
nected as they all are (with a breadth of several nautical miles), decline
gently until from a depth of about 1300 ft. they join abruptly the great
chasm of the " Norwegian Sea '* (more than 4000 ft.) The abrupt edges
of the banks are at a distance of 25 to 125 m. from the Norwegian
coast, their nearest approaches being towards Bomsdal and outside the
Vesteraalen islands (Lofoten). With respect to differences in tempera-
ture according to the season, to rainfall^ and to toinds, Norway can be
divided into two climatic regions, insensibly merged :
(a) The west coast, between Lindesnses and the Lofoten group, has
a well-marked coast'Climate. For reasons above given, the cold in
winter is slight. In January (the coldest month) the mean temperature
is 82° Fahr. from Lindesnses to Namdalen, and on some of the outlying
islands even 35*6° — a great deal warmer than the corresponding mean
temperature for the same degrees of latitude. At the N. Cape the mean
temperature in January is 24*8° Fahr. The lowest recorded tem-
perature between Lofoten and Skudenaes has been about 5° Fahr.
On the other hand, the raw sea- air does not permit the attainment of
any great heat in summer. Thus the mean heat between Lindesnses
and Finmarken, in July, ranges between 57*5° and 48° Fahr., and the
temperature seldom rises above 77°. To the advantage of the fisheries,
the sea along the W. coast never freezes (except at the head of §ords),
while in the Vestenfjeldske district proper domestic animals can
remain out during the greater part of the year, and com is never liable
to the danger of night frost. These conditions are unfavourable to the
growth of trees (of which, however, in the N., the disproportionate leaf-
development is remarkable), and frequently necessitates the cutting of
com in a green state, notwithstanding early sowing.
The proximity of the sea causes the humidity of the W. coast to be
considerable. The sky is frequently clouded, especially on the Fin-
marken coast, and in several places the number of rainy days is in bad
seasons as much as 200. Bergen, especially, has a traditional reputa-
tion for rain, which however it often belies, the weather being fre-
quently delightful there in June and July ; of late years at least it has
Geography^ Geology^ Mineralogy , &c.
[37]
been during the summer greatly superior to that of Trondhjem and its
neighbourhood. The large average of rainy days includes of course
those of the spring, autumn, and winter. From Vardo to Lofoten snow
is more frequent than rain in winter, and falls occasionally even in
snnmier. On the remaining part of the W. coast it is rain that pre-
vails. The rainfall is most considerable between Bergen and Stat (near
Aalesund), and especially along the Jostedalsbrse. From a maximum
of 119 cub. in., it falls N. and S. to about 62 in.
In winter cold land-t(^<^« prevail, producing frost-/o^» in the fjords,
and having outside the coast a tendency to deflect N. Storms occur
frequently, especially in winter, and along the more northern coast.
They occur on the average once a month at Skudenses, once a week
at the N. Cape, and on the Bomsdal coast even once in every five
days. Dangerous squalls are common in the fjords.
(&) The eastf or SondenfjeldsJce, cov/ntry (S. of the Dovre and E. of
the Langfjeld mtns.) Its climate, especially inland, varies greatly in
the several seasons. Generally the winter is very severe. Thus, at
Christiania the mean heat is about 23° Fahr., but not unfrequently the
temperature falls to 1Q'G>°. In the S. part of Osterdal the mean heat
of the same months will be 14°, and the lowest temperature down to
40° Fahr. (below the freezing-point of quicksilver) ; at Eoros (between
Christiania and Trondhjem) the mean readings are relatively 10*4° and
47*2°. On the other hand, the summer heat is somewhat considerable.
At Christiania the mean heat in July is about 61° Fahr., but the tem-
perature occasionally rises to 89*6°, and more ; around Eoros, notwith-
standing a height of over 2000 ft. above the sea, the thermometer
will not seldom register 84*2°.
In most winters the rivers and lakes in this part of the country, as
well as its harbours and smaller fjords, remain frozen for four or five
months. The most important of the harbours are kept open artificially
by powerful ice-breaking steamers. It may be mentioned here that the
average temperatv/re of the sea is 3^° to 7° warmer than the air, and
necessarily lower than that of the air in summer and higher in winter.
There is less moisture in this section of the country than in the
one above dealt with. The number of rainy days is only 100 to 150.
In the regions below an altitude of 5000 ft. rain is more frequent than
snow. The annual rainfell varies from 20-25 cub. in. inland to 60 on
the coast. Some of the valleys in the interior, particularly the upper
part of Gudbrandsdal, are not unfrequently exposed to drought.
The mean temperature and average rainfall in various parts of
Norway between lat. 70° 22' and 59° 55' N. are as follows ;
—
Temp. Fahr.
Bain, inch
Temp. Fahr.
Bain, inch
Vardo .
33-45
Floro .
43-85
75-27
Tromso
35-96
Bergen .
44-60
72-25
Bodo .
38-48
30-55
Skudenses
44-78
42-83
Christiansund
43-16
37-48
LindesnsBS .
44-24
Dovre .
32-64
14-39
Christiania .
41-36
21-19
Roros .
27-6
[38]
Geography y Oeologyy Mineralogy y &c.
As in the " Vestland," the prevailing winds are those that blo-w
from the land, and which, in the interior of the country, follow the
directions of the valleys, and bring cold down from the higher mtns.
In summer the wind blows most frequently from the sea. Its strength
is seldom considerable, and the annual number of stormy days is
small — at Christiania scarcely one per annum. Hail- and thunder-
storms are of rare occurrence.
In such a northern country the summer is necessarily short. At
Christiania, where it begins in May and ends in September, it can be
taken to last four months, while in the northernmost part of the
Trondhjem Stift (eccles. pro v.) it lasts only about two and a-half
months (from the beginning of June to the middle of August), and in
Finmarken scarcely two months. In the northernmost regions the
shortness of the summer finds, to a certain extent, compensation in
the length of the days, and by the sun remaining uninterruptedly over
the horizon. Thus, at Bodo the solar-centre remains thirty-nine days
over the horizon, at Tromso a little over two months, and at the N. Cape
two and a-half months.
Owing to its great elevation above the level of the ocean, the
country is, over considerable stretches, covered with perpetual snow
(glaciers, &c.) About 3100 sq. m. (8000 sq. kil.), or 2^ per cent,
of the total area of Norway, are thus covered. The snow limit sinks
not only towards the N., but generally also towards the W. Its height
above the sea in various parts of the country is as follows :
Feet
Highest
alt., feet
—
Feet
Highest
alt., feet
Folgef onn, W. side
n E. „
FiUefjeld .
Lodalskaapa
4050
4920
5540
3570
15180
5800
6740
SnehsBtta
Sulitjelma .
Seiland
5440
3840
2950
7610
6170
3540
Sahihrity, — The climate, which, except in the extreme N., belongs
to the temperate zone, is, on the whole, very healthy, and permits
the average duration of life to be longer than in any other country.
The average death-rate for the whole of Norway is 19 per mille, while
on Karmo island (near Haugesund) it is only 12. As regards the ages of
the living, they compare favourably with the statistics of Great Britain
and Germany. Out of 10,000 children bom alive in Norway, 7942
males attain twenty years, 5626 fifty years, and 3370 the seventieth
year. For England the corresponiHng figures are : 6800, 4770, and
2221. The atmosphere is bracing and pure, and, as regards richness
of ozorwy the maximum scale is found in Norway. Whether this be
the chief or only reason why the atmosphere is so wonderfully invigo-
rating has not yet been determined, "but certain it is," writes Dr.
Stabell, an eminent physician at Christiania,^ " that the effect is ap-
parent : the sad become cheerful, the apathetic recover their energy,
and those who previously took food unwillingly recover their appetite,
and eat as if they had done a hard day's work."
» In Norway Illiistrated, Bergen, 1889.
Geography, Oeology, Mineralogy, &c.
[39]
Excellent physicians, surgeons, and dentists are found in Norway^
the fees being very small compared with those charged in England.
Pra^yticcd weather-notes Except on the W. coast, the weather is
generally more settled than in England, being either good or bad con'^
seontively for a considerable period. As a rule, a W. wind brings wet
weather along the coast and dry weather inland ; an E. wind is accom-
panied by rain in Gudbrandsdal and the valleys E. of the main ranges,
with fine weather in the fjords. August and September are the most
rainy months in the E. districts. On the W. coast the rainy season
begins a Httle later. The cold in winter is generally dry inland and in
the E. and S.E. parts of the country, and is therefore not only bearable,
but enjoyable, by those who have the weakest constitutions.
Thermomet^ Convpa/risons, — The scale used in Norway is that of
B^aumur. Zero Fahrenheit corresponds with ndnns 17*78 Centigrade
and mmus 14*22 B^aumur.
To convert degrees of B^aumur into Fahrenheit above freezing-
point, multiply by 2^ and add 32 ; below, multiply by 2^ and subtract
the product from 82, thus :
17 B. X 2J = 38:^, add 32 = 70J Fahr. of heat.
8 B. X 2i = 18, subtract 18 from 82 = 14 Fahr. of heat.
To convert degrees of Celsius or Centigrade into those of Fahrenheit,
multiply by 1^ and add 82 if above freezing-point, and subtract if below.
To convert degrees of Fahrenheit into those of B^aumur, subtract
82 from the given number, and multiply by the fraction f ; thus :
167 Fahr.-82«186 X f = 60 B.
R.
Pabr.
c.
R.
Fahr.
c.
80
212
100
Boiling
10-4
55-4
13 Temperate
40
122
50
5-6
44-6
7
86
118
45
Fever
Zero
82
Zero Freezing
35-2
111-2
44
6-4
19-4
7
30-4
100-4
88
10-6
8-6
18
29-6
98-6
87
Blood
16-2
2-2
19
26-6
89-6
82
20
18
25
20
77
25
25-6
25-6
82
19-2
76-2
24
Summer
80-4
36-4
88
16-2
66-2
19
40
68
50 Quicksilver
freezes
5. Botany. — The vegetation of Norway is of great uniformity, and
almost entirely wanting in the forms and colours of warmer countries,
although, owing to exceptionally £Bbvourable climatic conditions, it is
richer than that of other regions in the same latitude. Instead of
southern variety, we come across imiuense masses of one and the same
species of vegetable growth ; particularly coniferous trees, the birch,
the willow, various grasses and sedges, heather, wild-berry plants,
mosses, ferns, and lichens. It is more especially where the substratum
consists of granite or other not easily decomposable rocks, as well as on
the marsh lands, that vegetable hfe has a poor, cold, and but little
attractive character. Where the subsoil is looser, warmer, and drier,
the vegetation is, on the other hand, rich and varied, resembling that
[40] Geography, Geology , Mineralogy^ &c.
of southern climes, and including many rare species, which find in
such parts of Norway their most northerly extension. The Christiania
valley and the Langesund fjord (running out of the Christiania fjord)
are the most favoured in this respect.
According to Prof. A. Blytt, the wild plants of Norway are divisible
into the following groups : (a) Arctic species^ growing in N. Greenland,
Spitzber^en, and other arctic regions, and which are perceptibly con-
nected with the Qelds and the northern parts of Norway. (6) The Sub-
atretic, not found in the two regions just mentioned, but spread over
the whole of Norway, both on the fjelds and the lower country, par-
ticularly in the shady, wooded valleys and on the slopes of the mtns.
(c) Boreal, spread most extensively in the lower part of the country,
especially where wood-clad rocks prevail, avoiding, however, the outer
line of the west-coast region, (d) Svh-horeal, This species belongs
to the lowest S.E. parts of the country, around the Christiania Qord
more especieJly. (e) Atlantic^ chiefly prevalent along the coast from
Stavanger to Christiansund. (/) Sub-Atlcmidc, found on the coast be-
tween Stavanger and Kragero, as well as in the Smaalenene prefecture
(E. of Christiania fjord). These groups never occur unmixed, but in
sufficient character, general and individual, to impart locally a dis-
tinctive stamp on the vegetation. Variety in climatic conditions
naturally renders different Qxe vegetation of the W. and E. and the N.
and S., and at different levels above the sea. Prof. Schtlbeler's in-
vestigations show that in the northerly districts vegetation has the
advantage of a rapid development, and of heavier, darker-coloured,
more aromatic fruit (although less sweet), flowers, and leaves.
Norway is still richer in forests than most other European coun-
tries, about the fifth part of the area of the country being covered with
them. The most important stretches of forest are found in the S., in
the basins of the Tista, Glommen, Drammen, Numedal-Laagen, Skien,
and Nid, and in the Nordenfjeldske country at the head of the
Trondhjem fjord, in Namdalen, Yefsen, and Maalselvdalen. But the
forests have almost in all parts of the country been to a great extent
devastated, {»rincipally by me rapacious hand of man, partly by climatic
changes, produced in some degree also by the reckless destruction of
woods for conunercial purposes. There is no law to curb the de-
foresting of the country or to make compulsory the replanting of it
with trees.
The forests consist almost exclusively of pine, fir, and birch, the
quantity of oak and beech being relatively very small. The pme grows
throughout the entire country, as far as Alten and the Porsanger fjord
(70° N. lat.%'as well as along the Tana r. and in the S. Yaranger fjord,
in about the same lat. In S. Norway it extends to a height of
about 8100 ft. above the sea, but attains a much lesser elevation in
the W., and especially in the N. In Finmarken it does not occur
above a height of 800 fb. The^ abounds chiefly in the Sondenf jeldske
and Nordenfjeldske districts, in company with the pine, but at a
somewhat lesser altitude above the sea. Its northerly limit is in
lat. 67** N.', but a species of it is found on the S. Yaranger fjord
and on the banks of the Tana. In the W. part of Norway it does not
<?row wild^ except at Yoss and at a few other places, where it is a great
Geography y Geology y Mineralogy ^ &c, [41]
rarity. The birch is widely spread over the entire coxintry up to the
Arctic Ocean. In the lower parts of S. Norway it mingles as a rule
with other forest trees, but on the fjelds, above the line of the cordfercB,
as well as in Finmarken, it generally occupies forests of its own. In
S. Norway this tree attains an altitude of 8600 ft. ; in the W. parts
of Sogn it does not rise more than 1650 ft., and in Finmarken 1000 to
1650 ft. The alder is everywhere indigenous (even as far as the
Arctic Ocean) and attains on the fjelds almost the same altitude as
the species above mentioned. The oak is found in the lower-lying
districts as far as Nordmore and the Mjosen lake. There are small
woods of it along the W. coast, especially on either side of LindesnsBS.
The ash is con&ied to the S. of Norway, but the moxmtain-ash
flourishes all oyer the country. The beech is the rarest tree in Nor-
way, growing only in the prefectures of Jarlsberg and Laurvig (there
being a large wood of it close to the town of Laurvig) and in the
neighbourhood of Eragero and Arendal. Some few beech- trees are
also found a little N. of Bergen. Avoiding notice of other inferior
species of trees, we may mention here, in respect of vegetable life and
its dependence on conditions of altitude, that three belts are distin-
guishable on the Norwegian mtns. (fjelds), being more especially dis-
tinct in the Yestenfjelds region, viz. :
{a) The zone of Comferce.
(b) The zone of the birch,
(c) The zone of fjeld (mtn.) vegetation, between the birch zone
and the snow limit, comprises at its lower extremity bushes of
the jumper, the d/wa/rf birch (betula ncma), the aJder, and osiers,
affording fuel to the elevated sseter (pasturage) regions. Within it are
also found extensive, sometimes marshy, plateaux (flyer), covered with
heather, berry-bearing plants, lichen, and- moss. Higher up the fjelds
are generally clothed with a thick carpet of greyish herbage, from
which bare black rocks rise towards the region of perpetual snow. In
the clefts of the steep rock- sides, amongst the sand and gravel of the
river-beds, and on other fiavourable spots, this zone has a rich and
interesting mountain flora, chiefly with low stems, strong roots, and
pretty flowers of exceptionally pure colour, but rarely with any scent.
Cereals, — Wheat (especially spring com) is grown as feur as lat.
64° 80^ N., and in the more southerly parts of the country up to an
altitude of nearly 1000 ft. Its cultivation (relatively unimportant) is,
however, chiefly limited to the regions around the Christiania fjord
and along its coast as far as Lindesnses. Bye (principally winter com)
extends to lat. 69° N., and in S. Norway to an altitude of 2000 ft., and
is grown chiefly in the episcopal provinces (Stift) of Ghnstiania and
Hamar. Oats grow almost as far N. as rye. Barley, the hardiest and
quickest ripening cereal in Norway, is raised as far as lat. 70"^ N., and
in S. Norway up to an altitude of 2130 ft. In Finmarken the interval
between sowing and reaping is eighty to ninety days, in S. Norway a
little longer, as a genera! rule. The ^o^^o. is extensively grown over
a considerable area of the arable land in the S., and almost one-half
of such land in the N. is devoted to its cultivation. Peas and beans
are produced in occasional patches in the S. : flax and hemp on a
small scale as f&r as Finmarken. Tti/mips are somewhat generally
[42] Geography^ Geology, Mineralogy y &c,
produced as food for cattle. The Norwegians are still very backward
in the art of raising vegetables, of which there is a considerable neces-
sary importation from France and Belgium. Vegetables (excepting
potatoes) are very Httle used by the lower classes. In fact, cultivated
land occupies an area of only 1100 sq. m.
Fruit-trees, — The apple-tree flourishes as fiur as lat. 66° 10' N.,
and in S. Norway to an altitude of 1300 ft., and especially at the
heads of the W. fjords and in the lower Sondenfjeld regions. Some
very fine species are extensively grown in the W. cockst district.
The pea/r-tree and the phim-tree are found as far N. as Inderden
(Trondhjem pref.) Cherries are grown up to the Polar Circle.
Gooseberries, cwrrcunts, and raspberries are abundant in gardens.
Stra/wberries are cultivated, and are plentiful and excellent in Bergen
and Ghristiania, and sometimes in Trondhjem. The principal wild
berries are — the rmilte-bcer (cloudberry) : Bubiis CTuimusmorus — found
in immense quantities in the marshy Nordenfjeldske district; the wild
strawberry (jord-beer), common everywhere, but literally clothing the
soil in parts of Vefsen ; the wild raspberry (brmge-bar), luxuriant
wherever the forest has been partially cleared ; the bla^a-bar, or bil-
berry ; the ndhheU-bcer (Skindtryte, blokkebaer), or whortleberry ; the
cowberry (tytte-beer) ; and the trcme-bter, or cranberry. There is a
great difference between the latter (more scarce) and the tytte-bter
(a much smaller berry), which most Norwegians insist on calling
"cranberry."
6. Zoology. — As in the case of vegetation, the animal life of Norway
is richer than that of any other country in the same latitude. The
fcmna is remarkable for the number of species which in other parts of
Europe have either disappeared or are fast dying out, such as the bear,
wolf, lynx, glutton, elk — and piBrhaps the be<wer. There are many
"BsBverdals" (beaver valleys) in Norway, and every hunter has
noticed, in secluded glens, the ancient dams constructed by those in-
teresting animals, once abundant in the country. They are now found
only in a few places and in small numbers, chiefly in the prefects,
of Bratsberg and Nedenses. The physical geography of the country
necessarily affects the distribution of animal life. In the lowlcmds a
considerable variety of small birds is noticeable, including the fieuniliar
tribes of finches i flycatchers, wa/rblers, wagta/ils, pipits, bvmMngs, and
Ui/m/ice, many of which, as well as the swallow, cucTcoo, and land/ra/il,
are summer migrants ; besides the raven, crow, magpie, various ha/wTcs
and owls, and many others, indigenous and resident. Nevertheless,
English travellers in Norway will frequently remark the stillness of the
woods ; for (making due allowance for the partial cessation of song and
movement during the breeding-season) there is nowhere in the North-
land — perhaps, indeed, nowhere in Europe — anything comparable to the
exuberant inland bird-life of the British Isles. In the cultivated por-
tion of the region to which we are now referring the common grey
pa/rtridge occurs, and very seldom the quaih The mammalia' are
chiefly represented by the rodent order, such as ha/res, sqwi/rreU, rats,
nvice, wholes, bats, &c. , and the hedgehog (of partial distribution). Snakes,
of the ordinary and harmless kind, are not uncommon. Adders and
slow-worms are of local occurrence.
Geography y Geology^ Mineralogy ^ &c. [43]
Amongst the fishes inhabiting the rivers and lakes in the lower
lands are iYie perch, j^lce^ sik {Coregonus lava/retus), burhot, eel, trout,
and salmon.
It is in the great forests of Norway that we find the elk, the
biggest wild animal in Em*ope, which is now spreading considerably
year by year all over the country ; the heanr, tenanting the most thickly
wooded and rockiest districts ; the wolf, numerous everywhere scarcely
half a century ago, but now confined principally to Finmarken,
although it has recently invaded the prefect, of N. Trondhjem during
the winter in considerable numbers ; and the lynx, evenly distributed,
but most numerous in the prefects, of S. Trondhjem, Eomsdal, Brats-
berg, and Nedenses. The red-deer is found only on the W. coast and
its islands. Amongst the lesser mammalia of the forest region — to
which many of those inhabiting the lowlands are of course also com-
mon — are the badger, pole-cat, ma/rten, weasel, and red-fox.
The principal game birds of the forest region — common also to
some parts of the lowlands — are the capercailzie, black-grouse, taillow-
grouse, hazel-grouse (Tetrao Bonasia), and woodcock. Amongst
other members of the feathered tribes may be specially mentioned the
crossbill, cinnamon jay, great black woodpecker (with its congeners,
the green and spotted) ; in summer-time, the fieldfa/re and redwing,
which nest in colonies; the crested titmouse {Pa/rus cristatus); and, far
rarer, the magnificent eagle-owl, the nutcracker crow {Nudfraga
ca/ryocatactes), the pine bullfinch {Pyrrhula emicleator), the blus-
breasted robin (Sylvia svecica), and the Boherma/n, wax-vmig
(AmpeUs garruhis) — all the latter birds being peculiarly characteristic
of the Northland, particularly of those parts of it which are within the
Arctic Circle, and where they are seldom seen except by the wandering
naturalist. The highlam.ds, or fjeld districts, are tenanted during the
summer and early autumn by a variety of waders, such as the golden
'plover, dotterel, whimbrel, ruff, double and common snipe, which nest
in the vicinity of the high-level marshes, and migrate thence before the
winter. In the innumerable tarns and lakes are found at the same
season various species of the duck tribe, including the mallard,uddgeon,
teal, pintail, golden-eye, shovell^er, velvet and common scoter, and
sca/up, and two divers (Lom), the black-throated and the red-throated
(the most common), as well as the mergamser and, occasionally, the
grebe. The great northern diver is much rarer, and even in the far
North is seldom seen in summer. It is a late autnnm and winter
visitor to Norway.
The same regions are inhabited by such birds of prey as the eagle
{golden and white tailed), the osprey, the ger- falcon, and the gos-
hanjok, the rough-legged buzzard, the snowy owl, and the Lapkmd or
cat owl, most of which are also found in the forest region, and occa-
sionally descend to the lowlands.
The most remarkable of the indigenous ma/mmalia in these lofty
regions are the wild reindeer, now found almost exclusively on the
high ridges S. of Nordland (Hardanger-vidden, Jotunfleld, Dovre, and
tracts roimd the Rondane and the Tryssil fjelds), and estimated to
number at present between 10,000 and 20,000 head. Here also is found
the glutton or wolverine (Gulo boreaUs), the deadly enemy of the
[44] Geography^ Geology, Mineralogy, &c.
reindeer, most common in Finmarken and Nordland, but at the same
time distributed over the country even to the verge of the southern
lowlands near the Christiania fjord, and the rare hlue or silver foac
(the fur of which is so valuable), as well as the also rare crossed species.
Of the smaller quadrupeds of Norway, one may be briefly noticed
on account of its singular habits and local interest, and this is the
Lemming (My odes lemnvus). These small creatures, which are sonae-
what smaller than a water-rat, and resemble a diminutive guinea-pig,
being beautifully coloured with black, orange, and brown, have their
home in the high mtn. plateaux of Norway, but migrate at irregular
periods, in countless numbers, to the lowlands, always marching first
down the slopes and then along the bottoms of valleys. Nothing stops
them when once on the march — whether river, lake, or fjord. They
are reported to have once invaded by millions the streets of Trondhjem.
If, while migrating, they reach the open sea, they swim straight out
and, fortunately for mankind, perish in the waters. They are also
drowned in great numbers when crossing lakes and rivers, and the de-
composition of their bodies in lakes, &c., firom which drinking-water is
taken, frequently produces an epidemic locally known as ** Lemming
Fever." They never return to the mtns. In their periodical halts
they will infest the same region for one or two years, but seldom, if
ever, longer. They do great damage to the crops and herbage in
those districts which they select; so great indeed was the mischief
caused by them in old times that they were solemnly exorcised by the
priests, and a Lemming Litany was appointed with that object. They
are always followed by a great number of the smaller hawks and owls,
especially the snowy owl. The reindeer are said to feed on them at
times. To the sportsman who happens to be hunting the district in
which they are temporarily settled they are a great nuisance, for even
the steadiest dogs get so excited over their capture as to neglect their
sporting duties altogether. The lemming scorns to seek safety, as a
rule, by hasty flight, for such is the courage contained in its diminu-
tive body that it is ready to dispute the way with an elephant.
It is amusing to watch one of these little creatures snapping and
barking at the intruder on its haunts, and retreating with its face to
the foe.
The waters of many of the innumerable mtn. -lakes abound in
trout and c7ia/r, which fatten on the clduds of insects — including the
dreaded mosquito — that fill the air in many localities, especially in the
interior of Finmarken.
Immense flocks of geese (chiefly the grey -leg and hea/n-goose, but
also the wTnte-fronted and brent), of ducJcSy and other* aquatic birds
which have been bred to a great extent in the waters of the interior,
as well as on the distant shores of Greenland and Spitzbergen, collect
towards autumn on the W. and N.W. coasts of Norway. The " bird-
mtns.," or precipitous island cliffe, on which the sea-fowl congre-
gate, will be noticed in the section that deals with Routes in N. Norway.
The eider-duck is strictly ' preserved from the Trondhjem fjord
northwards, and in some districts farther S. The mammaUa of the
coast-line are represented by otters (found also inland), and by several
species of seals and whales. Amongst the fishes, mention must be
Statifttics. [45]
specially made of the swarms of herrings, cod, pollock, and coal-fish
(Sei)j the capture of which gives employment to thousands of fisher-
men, and constitutes a national industry. Halibut ajid Ung of great
size, two or three species of small shark (caught for the sake of their
oil), the wolf -fishy and ordinary sea-fish, such as mackerel, haddock,
whiting, Jhtmder, and the like, abound, besides several species of wrask
and sea-bream, not so familiar to the English market. Lobsters
(exported), crabs, and oysters (the latter partially cultivated, but not
numerous) are an important source of income on the W. coast.
IV. statistics.
1. Population. — In 1891 this was returned by a census at about two
millions (including seamen abroad), the rural and urban proportions
being severally 76 and 24 per cent. It is kept down by emigration, the
rate of which has occasionally been as high as that firom Ireland in the
worst times. From 4000 in 1865, 1875, and 1876, the number of
emigrants rose to over 28,000 in 1882 (about one-sixtieth of the popu-
lation), but fell again in 1888, on an improvement in trade, to 21,500
(1-8 per cent.) In 1889, again, it sank to 12,478. Emigration is
directed principally towards the U.S. of America (Wisconsin, Minnesota,
Iowa, and Illinois), where the Norwegian population is now over half
a million, in a form more or less concrete, preserving to a great extent
its own language and maintaining its national priesthood, recruited
from home. A smaller contingent repairs to Canada, New Holland,
New Zealand, Natal, and parts of S. America. On the other hand, the
immigration of aliens (notably of Finlanders into Finmarken and of
Swedes into the prefectures of Smaalenene, Jarlsberg, and Laurvig) is
inconsiderable. In the inland rural districts the population is almost
stationary, the small annual increase (0*65 per cent.) being referable
chiefly to the sea-board and to towns, where trade and navigation sup-
plement the small gains of husbandry. The most populous towns are
Christiania, Bergen, Trondhjem, Stavanger, and Drammen. (See de-
scriptions.)
As in the other two Scandinavian countries, in Norway the popula-
tion is very homogeneous, even the Lapps and Finlanders forming less
than 2 per cent, of it.
The origin of the Norwegians has been dealt with in the ** Historical
Notice." They are, as a rule, well-grown and strong, although the state-
ment so frequently made that an average Briton looks small in a Nor-
wegian crowd is fabulous. In a country where the conditions of
climate and life are so hard, the fittest are necessarily strong. A Nor-
wegian is of a serious turn of mind, sensible and cahn when not excited
by agitation or drink, and not combative, although given to litigation.
His obstinacy and a certain slowness in mind and body are possibly
legacies of the Finnish races which he superseded, the same quali-
ties being observable to the present day among the Finns of Eussia,
and the Bulgarians of the S. of Europe. The Norwegians have in
common with the Finns the characteristic proverb : " Hurry not,
except when catching fleas."
[46] Statistics.
Self-conBcioosnesB and national vanity, and a love of liberty that
tends somewhat to an extreme devolution, are likewise features of
character as noticeable as the primitive virtue of hospitality.
Of their Religion we have treated under ''Government and Ad-
ministration.'* Morality, except in the sense of honesty, leaves much
to be desired, in the rural districts more especially. The dangerous
system of long engagements, restricting but Httle the intercourse of
the sexes, is productive of evil, akin to that which exists in our own
" Black Country,*' amongst our mining population, and in some parts
of Scotland. The household arrangements in towns and the relegation
of peasant girls to sceters (chdlets) for the summer months, in charge
of cows and goats, are among the principal causes of a state of morality
represented (according to a Norwegian official statistician^) by a very
considerable amount of illegitimacy. He states that out of one hundred
couples, thirteen have children during the three first months after
marriage, twelve in the following three months, and eight in the two
next months, making a total of 33 per cent, of births eight months
after marriage. If, however, he continues, we take into account
children born previously to wedlock, it will be found that, out of every
hundred of couples of the peasant-proprietor class or of persons in
easy circumstances in the rural districts, thirty-four children accrue
to them before marriage or within eight months after, while amongst
the husmcend (agricultural tenants) and workmen the corresponding
proportion is not less than 50 per cent., and in some localities even
65 per cent. It is not only permissible to legitimitise bastards by
marriage, but they may, by customary law, be sworn in case of doubt
to several fathers (up to four or five), each of whom can be bound
to contribute a proportionate share for the maintenance of such off-
spring up to the age of fifteen. Among the rude fishermen in the
Lofoten islands a half share in such a responsibility is not uncommon.
The law, or rather custom, is also remarkably lenient in respect of
the right of every woman to receive her " betrothed " in her master's
house, and no contract in derogation of that right is valid.
Drtmhemiess is certainly on the decrease ; in rural districts cases
of it are rarely seen out of doors, while in the towns the poUce vigi-
lantly exercise their duty of taking up any person " apparently intoxi-
cated." Teetotalism and the " blue ribbon" have contributed towards
this satisfactory result ; but to attribute it solely to a total- abstinence
movement and to the adoption of a wisely modified ''Gothenburg
system" of local option for the sale of spirituous liquor (which sup-
plies better quahty at a lower price) is to deny the effect of more
careful and practical religious training, of education, and of improve-
ment in the dwellings and in the mode of life of the lower classes.
Nor should it be forgotten that, as in our own country, the " drink
bill " is much influenced by the earnings of the population. The bonds
(peasant-proprietor) has many other calls nowadays on his resources
in ready money.
2. Occupations of the People. — (a) Agricultv/re, — More than one half
of the population is engaged in tilling the soil and in its accompanying
* Le Boyaume de Norvige, Dr. 0. 1. Broch. Christiania, 1878.
Statistics. [47]
occupations of rearing cattle and cutting timber, although only 2 per
cent, of the total area of the country has so far lent itself to cultivation.
Of that small area only *84 per cent, consists of arable land, the re-
mainder being artificial meadows, &c. In the northernmost baiUwicks
agriculture is limited to the raising of an inconsiderable quantity of
potatoes. Except on the larger estates, having the benefit of modem
implements and machinery, agriculture is pursued in an antiquated
manner, with rough appliances. The smallness and frequently the
chequered distribution of holdings, are conditions unfavourable to im-
provement. In several prefectures the minute subdivision of land is a
condition that renders impossible the sustenance of a family, to which
therefore proprietorship or tenancy is only a subsidiary source of in-
come. In these circumstances about 86 per cent, of the com con-
sumed in Norway is imported from Eussia, Denmark, and Germany.
There is, however, a small exportation of oats, as well as of barley
in the ultimate form of excellent ale, largely consumed also in the
country.
Cattle-rearing is relatively of greater importance, and not only
suffices (with the adjunct of American pork) to supply the home
demand, but also admits of the exportation of sheep from the W.
coast to Great Britain. In 1891, when the last census was taken, the
animal stock was — horses 150,740 ; homed cattle about 1,004,000 ;
sheep 1,407,500 ; goats 271,500 ; stoine 121,300, and reindeer 167,600
approximately.
(6) Fishing, — This was in ancient days the most important occupa-
tion of the Norwegian people, and even now is one of the principal means
of existence, leaving a considerable surplus of fish for exportation. The
fisheries may be classified as the great deep-sea fisheries (cod and
herring) on the Yesten- and Norden-fjeldske coasts, and the minor
fisheries (mackerel^ around Lindesnses and on the Jarlsberg and
Laurvig coast), coal-fish^ Ung, sahnon, sea-trout, lobsters, &c.
Whaling is pursued chiefly off the coasts of Finmarken and Tromsd,
but in 1890-91 the take was considerable in the Skagerak, almost in
the Ghrktiania fjord. Bottle-nose whales and seals are taken by Nor-
wegian vessels (sailing and steam) in large quantities off Jan Mayen,
Spitzbergen, Greenland, &o. Between 1882-88 the annual value of the
coast fid^eries, deducting the fish for home consumption, was more
than a million sterling, and that of the fish after processes of curing,
&c. (for exportation) 2*8 millions. In 1888 the Lofoten cod fisheries
alone gave employment to 82,000 men, the total number of men thus
employed each season on the Norwegian sea-board being 81,400, in
20,000 boats, large and small. Salted cod is exported chiefly to Spain
and Portugal (70 per cent, of total export), and dried cod to Italy,
Austria (40 per cent.), Holland, &c. The average annual value of the
catch of herrings is about 280,OOOZ. Much progress has been made
during the last century in the development of the fisheries, by aid and
supervision both of the State and of local fishery boards or associations.
(c) Mining gives employment to only about 2500 men, the industry
having feJlen off since the beginning of the present century, when
the production of iron (now cSmost ceased) began to decline. (See
" Mineralogy.*')
[48] Statistics.
(d) Manufacturing industry, — This affords a livelihood to abo':t
50,000 men. Notwithstanding a low customs tariff (almost the only
revenue of the State), it has made, and continues to ms^e, very satis-
factory progress with duty-free coal (from Great Britain), raw material
only nominally taxed, and water-power of great magnitude and abun-
dance. Some branches of it contribute substantially towards the ex-
ports of the country : wood pulp (about 600,000i.)» 'matches (about
100,000Z.), horseshoe and other naMs (about 160,000Z.), woollens (about
130,000Z.) In 1889 the value of the exports of Norwegian manufac-
tures (not including planed timber and fish oil) amounted to
1,700,000Z., out of an aggregate export value of nearly seven and a-half
millions.
(e) Shipping. — From the age of the Vikings, the Norwegians have
lived principally by navigation. In proportion to the population, the
shipping tonnage owned in Norway is now higher than that of any
other country in the world, being eighty register tons per hundred
inhabitants. In 1889 the Norwegian mercantile marine consisted of
7285 vessels of 1,611,000 tons in the aggregate, and employing nearly
56,000 men. In this respect Norway comes only after Great Britain
and the U.S. of America ; but a large proportion being sailing ships
(including many "floating cofl&ns'*), Norway stands lower than Ger-
many and France on the list of steam tonnage, which was 137,500
register tons in 1889, or only 9 per cent, of the total tonnage. The
steamship tonnage is much on the increase, especially at Bergen. In
1888 the gross earnings of the mercantile fleet engaged in the foreign
trade were estimated at more than five miUions sterling, out of which
about one-half was expended in foreign ports.
(/) Trade, — In 1889 the imports were officially estimated at about
10,600Z., and the exports at 7,400,000Z., the share of Great Britain being
severally 31 and 33 per cent., while Germany supplied 25 per cent, of
the total value of the imports and took only about 13 per cent, of that
of the exports. The corresponding proportions for France were 2 J and
6 per cent. In their order of value, the imports consisted of corn and
flour (1,800,000Z.), textiles, &c. (1,600,000Z.), coffee, sugar, tobacco, &c.
(1,200,000Z.) ; while 38 per cent, of the value of the exports represented
timber, wood pulp, &c., 33 per cent, products of the fisheries, 24 per
cent, other Norwegian productions, and 5 per cent, foreign goods
re-exported.
3. Army and Navy. — {a) Army, — Military service is compulsory on
all classes of the community, and conscription therefore embraces every
citizen, not physically incapacitated, who has reached his twenty-
second year. Only the clergy. Civil servants, pilot aldermen, pilots on
the establishment, and (as yet) the inhabitants of Finmarken, are ex-
empted. Substitutes cannot be provided. Even resident aliens, when
not exempted by treaty, are subject to military service. Thus, British
subjects domiciled (a very elastic term in Norway) in the country
cannot prevent their sons from being converted into subjects of the King
of Norway by compulsory enrolment. Those who contemplate settling
even temporarily in Norway with sons approaching the age of liability
to military conscription should keep this contingency clearly in view,
together with the concurrent disability of not being able to acquire or
Statistics. [49]
rent, or to sell or devise to another alien, real property in any part of
the kingdom, without special permission. Conscripts who are not
thoroughly capacitated, or who are under a height of 5 ft. 3 in., are
relegated to the train corps, the remainder being drafted into the Ime
for a period of five years, after which they are attached for four years to
the militia {Lcmd/v(Bmet)f but only for home service. Lastly, they form
part of the Lcmdstorm, for local defence, during a farther period of
four years.
Nominally, the Norwegian army, as reorganised in 1886, is
composed of about 64,000 men, including 880 officers and 3100 ser-
geants and corporals. The theoretical strength of the line is 36,000,
of whom not more than 18,000 can be placed on a war footing without
the consent of the Storthing. About 2000 horses (artillery, cavalry,
and train) belong to the army. The conscripts are exercised yearly —
the junior class in the infantry and in the fortress and mountain artil-
lery for at least forty -two days, the engineer troops for fifty days, and
the cavalry and horse artillery for seventy days. These are the " Recruit
School " exercises ; for subsequent training the men of the line are
called up for at least twenty-four days, and the militia for not less than
twelve days each year.
The infa/ntry consists of H.M.'s Norwegian Guards, composed
of two volimteer companies and of fiva brigades ; the ccuvalry of three
corps, or eight squadrons ; the field artillery ^ also of three corps, of
one battalion of three batteries, with six guns each.
(6) Navy. — This is manned by seamen liable to service who have
been at least twelve months on board foreign-going ships, and who
are between the ages of twenty-two and thirty-five. These are more
than 20,000 in number, but the contingent called out is subordinate to
financial considerations. Marines and seamen for coast defence, as
well as *^ district sea- troops '* (in Nordland and Tromso), are raised
under special regulations.
The fleet, of which the stations are — Horten (chief), FredriksvsBrn
(equally in the Christiania fjord), Ghristiansand, Bergen, and Tron-^
dhjem — consists at present of 4 monitors (two guns each) ; gunboats :
2 first class, 7 second class, 17 third class, and 4 of older type (mostly
carrying one gun), and 9 torpedo-boats. In addition to these are 2 old
stea/m frigates, 2 stea/m corvettes, 2 sailing corvettes, 1 tug, and 6
travning and dockyard shvps.
The fortresses are all obsolete, excepting Oscarsborg on Kaliolmen
island, commanding at Drobak the approach to Christiania, which is
gradually being strengthened.
The chief arsenal is at Christiania (Akerhus fortress) ; the small-
arms factory is at Eongsberg, and the powder mills at Skar, near
Christiania.
The military and sea forces of the kingdom are under the superior
command of the king.
4. FinaxLcei. — (a) State. — The public debt of the country, incurred
chiefly in the construction of railways, of which 972 miles are open,
amounted at the end of 1889 to a little less than six and a -half millions
sterling, well covered by various assets of the State. In 1890-91 the
revenue was estimated at about 2,700,000Z., and the expenditure at
[Norway — vi, 92.] o
[60] Lcmguage, Literature^ and Art.
abont 2,650,0002. Nearly 46 per cent, of the revenne is derived firom
customs under a moderate tariff, which, however, falls rather heavily
on sugar, coffee, tea, and other colonial produce ; 11| per cent, from
the excise on spirits and malt, and the balance from stamps, succession
duty, railways, Eongsberg silver mines, and other sources. There is
no direct State tax on property or income.' The expenditure includes
the following groups : King's Civil List, 26,800Z. (1 per cent.) ; Storth-
ing, 24,4002. (nearly 1 per cent.) ; State Council and Central Govern-
ment, 64,300Z. (2*4 per cent.) ; Army, 418,000Z. (nearly 16 per cent.) ;
Navy, 163,000Z. (6 per cent.) ; PubHc Works, 648,0002. (20*6 per cent.) ;
Justice, 277,0002. (10*4 per cent.) ; Interior Provincial Administration,
Post and Telegraph Departments, Steamship subsidies, &c., 368,00OZ.
(13*6 per cent.) ; Finance Department (interest on debt, local adminis-
tration, pensions, &c.), 464,0002. (nearly 18 per cent.) ; Church, 268,4002.
(9*9 per cent.) ; and Diplomatic and Consular services 37,6002. (1*4 per
cent.) EaiLway construction has been resimaed and loans for that
purpose raised (1892).
(6) Commwaal Fincmce, — The communal debt amounted in 1887
to about 3,300,0002. ; while in 1888 the taxation for local purposes
(poor reUef, schools, roads. Church, &c.) was little short of a million
(965,0002.), of which very little less than one-half fell on the towns. In
the rural districts it was equivalent to 7«., and in the towns to 19s, lOd,
per head of the population. It tells heavily on the national economy,
and is all the more severely felt, since it is raised to the extent of
nearly 71 per cent, in the form of a direct tax on contributors deeply
indebted to the pubHc mortgage bank and otherwise. More than 26 per
cent, of the communal expenditure is for relief of the poor, of whom
in 1886 there were 168,000 (74,600 heads of famiHes, or about 8 per
cent, of the population''^). Schools absorb 22 per cent, of the expendi-
ture, and roads, the Church, police, sanitary service, administration,
&c., the balance.
T. Language, Literature, and Art
1. Language. — Originally Norway had her own language, the Nor-
rbne or old Norsk. As the old saga literature died out during the
slow decadence of the kingdom after the Calmar union the language
lost its natural support and was gradually replaced by several dialects,
still spoken by the majority of the rural population, and divided into
two main groups — the western and the eastern. During the long con-
nection with Denmark, Danish became the common written language
of the two countries, and later also the language spoken by the culti-
vated classes, but with an accent more akin to that of the Swedish,
and somewhat resembling Scotch, or the English accent of the Lake
* A Bill for the introduction of a State Income Tax is before the Storth-
ing, 1892.
2 In England and Wales the corresponding ratio (1890) was 2*7 per
cent. ; in Scotland about 2-6 per cent. ; and in Ireland (with a population of
about 4,700,000) about 2-3 per cent. (106,866 persons relieved).
LdnguagBj Literature^ and Art, [51]
District. Efiforts have for some years been made, but not very suo-
cessfiiUy, to introduce a new spoken and literary Norwegian lan-
guage (the Lcmd9maiaJ)y more akin to the language spoken by the
peasantry.
Nevertheless, it is not difficult for an Englishman, and especially
for a Scotchman, to acquire in a month or six weeks sufficient Norsk
for travelling purposes. But the tourist who spends only a few weeks
in the country need not apprehend any practical inconvenience from
ignorance of the language. All the hotel-keepers and waiters in the
large towns (and even in country hotels and inns), as well as many of the
posting and railway station-masters, speak English, which is, indeed,
fast becoming generally known throughout the country. The grammar,
vocabulary, and phrases loosely attached to this book will in any case
(with due observance of the rules given for |)ronunciation) suffice to
render the traveller understood in the least Imgnistically enlightened
or most out-of-the-way places in the country.
2. Literature and Art. — The Norwegians are decidedly a reading
people. The long winter nights offer a great inducement to reading,
and it is a remarkable phenomenon that religious books form a very
large proportion of the literature consumed by the peasants and the
lower classes. Norway is by fietr the best market for this class of books
in the Dano-Norwe^an language, and very many are translated from
English. The British and Foreign Bible Society and the Norwegian
Bible Society disseminate at low prices about 30,000 copies of the Holy
Scriptures per annum. But light literature is not neglected, and especi-
ally in these later years of keen political conflict the people have
acquired a taste for modern works on every kind of subject. Amongst
writers of fiction Wergeland (d. 184$) and Welhaven (d. 1873) are the
principal of the older period after 1814. To the same epoch belongs
also the collection of the folklore. It will be remembered that a large
portion of our own nursery tales are of Scandinavian origin. The
Storthing votes relatively lioeral sums for scientific purposes, and for
pensions to eminent men of letters. The most prolific modem writers
of poems, novels, and stage plays are Lie, Ejelland, Bjomstjeme Bjom-
Bon, and Ibsen. The two latter are now well known in Europe. Ibsen is
prominently before the English public as a dramatist with a purpose, and
the proclaimer of a new social gospel. His characters are often psychic-
ally abnormal. At an earlier period of his life he wrote very interesting
historical plays and some good poetry. His best works are considered
to be *' Brand " and " Per Gynt," two versified dramas ; the former in
the *^ Faust " line, the latter a withering satire on the weaknesses of his
countrymen. Bjomson, after producing a matchless series of idylls of
country and peasant life, has taken to plays that are not without a
social gospel either, and also to politics, openly in the direction of
severing the imion with Sweden. Both writers are distinguished by
realistic coarseness (generally excluded from translations) and by crude
theories of an advanced democratic and socialistic type. Norway can
also boast of several celebrated names in science and art since 1814,
such as the mathematician Abel (d. 1829), the zoologist Sars (d. 1869),
the Orientalist Lassen, pro£ at Bonn (d. 1876), the historian Munch
(d. 1863), the geologist Keilhau (d. 1858), the prof, in astronomy,
o2
[62] L<jmguage^ Literature, and Art.
Hansteen (d. 1878), Prof. J. A. Friis, the eminent Lappish scholar and
authority on the ethnology, sport, &e., of Finmarken.
The state of the pnblic PresBj except the lower forms of it, is
creditable to the country, and is conducted with considerable talent.
The first Norwegian newspaper was started in 1763. Almost every
town possesses one or more, and the capital several, representing
various political views, besides a Penny Magazine and many monthly
publications, literary and scientific. The press is perfectly free, sub-
ject only to legal responsibility for libel, &c.
The art of Painting is much cultivated, and has produced many
artists of European fame, trained mostly in the Dlisseldorf school.
The older (now deceased) painters were— J. C. Dahl (prof, at Dresden),
Thos. Feamley (Munich), both landscape ; Ad. Tidemand, who studied
and lived in Dusseldorf, and produced the well-known scenes from
Norwegian peasant life ; G. P. Eckersberg and Aug. Cappelen (of re-
markable talent, though he died 1852 quite young) : they were both
landscape painters of the Dlisseldorf school ; F. Boe : still-life. Fore-
most among living artists are — H. F. Gude (prof, at Berlin) : landscape
and marines of much celebrity ; Morten MilUer : landscape — studied
and lives at Dusseldorf; P. N. Arbo (distinguished court painter) :
historical, northern mythology, battle-scenes, horses, portraits — studied
in Dusseldorf and Paris, and lives in Ghristiania ; L. Munthe : land-
scape, remarkable colourist, well known in London — studied and lives
in Dusseldorf; F. Thaulow : landscape, chiefly winter scenes — studied
in Germany and also in Paris, where he is highly appreciated ; Erik
Werenskiold : figures and portraits, remarkable talent — studied at
Munich and lives in Ghristiania ; Hans Heyerdahl : figures and por-
traits ; L. Skramstad : a landscape painter of great eminence ; 0. Bind-
ing : landscape (views in the Lofoten islands) — studied in Germany, like
W. Barth, an admirable marine painter, who also resides at Ghristiania.
The list of living painters would not be complete without mention of
Dahl of Bergen, a painter of national life and smiling beauty ; V. S.
Lerche: architecture and humouristic figures; Eihf Peterssen : figures;
Ghr. Krohg : figures ; G. Uchermann : animals ; Ghr. Skredsvig ; land-
scape and figures ; and G. Munthe : landscape. N. Ulfsten, who died
1884, painted some very good views of the Norwegian coast.
Sculptv/rCf studied chiefly at Copenhagen, is now represented by B.
BergsHen and M. Skeibrok, who have adorned Ghristiania with some
monuments. The late J. Middelthun was the first in this branch of
art ; his busts and the Schweigaard moniunent in front of the Univer-
sity at Ghristiania are in high repute. Stephan Sinding has already a
European name as a sculptor.
Architecture, — ^Among many excellent architects we may well
mention Paul Due, who, amongst other prominent buildings, has adorned
Ghristiania with charming detached and semi-detached villas.
Photography, — Owing to art-cultivation and atmospheric advan-
tages, the photography of Norway holds a high place in Europe.
L. Szacinski of Ghristiania represents the highest perfection in that
art.
There are Theatres in Bergen and Ghristiania, and some of the
native actors are excellent in comedy, which is, however, generally of
Measures, Weights, and Coins. [53]
a coarse character when of native origin. In the Scandinavian coun-
tries, the theatrical profession is held in high esteem and respect.
Singing is cultivated no less than music, and painting. Concerts are
remarkable for the great amount of native talent which they display.
In drawing-rooms the vocal music is of a perfect kind.
Music. — A considerable collection of Norwegian national airs has
been published, and some of the melodies are- very charming. The
constant theme of the most popular songs and favourite airs is Gamle
Norge (Old Norway). The most celebrated composers are Grieg,
Kjerulf, Ole Olsen, Joh. Svendsen, and Chr. Sinding.
VI. Measures, Weights, and Coins, compared with British.
These are happily decvmal, and therefore easily dealt with.^
1. Measv/res :
(a) Of length — ...
1 metre . . . = 8 ft. 3-371 in.
1 kilometre . . = 0-621 mile.
100 „ ... =62 m.. 243-306 yds. (about Jrds.)
[1 Eng. m. = 1-609 Jrilom.]
1 nautical or geog. m. = 7-42 kilom..= 4 m.
(6) Of swperfides —
1 sq^ kilometre . = 0*386 sq. m.
100 „ . . =38-600 „
(c) Of capacity —
1 litre ... a 0-880 imp. quart.
100 „ . . . =22 gallons.
1 hectolitre (100 litres) = 2-751 bushels.
100 „ . . « 84 quarts. 8 bushels.
^ The melEksures and weights legal before 1880 being frequently quoted,
we give the equivalents :
Old Style New Style Approz. Eng. equivalent
IMil =11 kilom. = 7 m. (6 m. 1470 yds.)
1 Fjerdingrml . . . = 2-8 „ = 1 J m.
I „ ... =1-4 „ =0-87 m.
1 TUnde Lcmd = (100 sq. Alen) = = about an Eng. acre.
1 MaalJord =(60 „ )= = about J „ „
4 Maal ....>* =1 Eng. acre.
1 Tomme . . . . = 26 millim. = 1 in.
1 Fad (12 Tomme) . . =0-814 metre =1 ft. (1*029) ; or 1 metre
= 3-187 Fod.
1 Alen (EU or 2 Fod) . . =62**8 centim. =2 ft. (2-068).
1 Skaalpund . . . . = 0-498 kilog. = 1^ lbs. ; or 1 kilog. ^ 2007
Skaalpund.
1 Bism&rpund (12 Skaalpund) = 5*976 kilog. = 13 lbs. 3 oz.
1 lAsjpund . . . . = 8 „ « 17*6 lbs.
IVog =18 „ = 39-64 lbs.
1 Skippund . . . . = 160 „ = 362-32 lbs.
IPot =1 litre (0*965) = 1 imp. quart ; or 1 litre
= 1036 Pot.
[54] Meamires, Weights, arid Coins.
2. Weights:
1 kilogramme . . « 2*205 lbs. Av. (nearly 2} lbs.)
100 „ . . . t=l owt. 8qrs. 241bs.
1000 „ (commercially) «> 1 ton.
8. Gv/rrency. — Since 1877 * the currency of Norway has been deci-
mal, like that of Sweden and Denmark, with the krone (pi. kroner) as
the nnit, divided into 100 dre.
Practically, 18 kroner are given for 12., and 90 ore for a shilling.
A krone is, therefore, equal to 1«. 1|^., and an ore to a little above
half a farthing.
The covM are as follows :
(a) Gold pieces:
20 kroner
10 „
(6)
Silver :
1 krone
50 ore .
26 „ .
10 „ .
£ i.
«1 2
= 11
a.
2} (FiHglish).
li n
= 1
=
«0
-0
li
li
(c) Bronze:
The bronze tokens are severally for 5, 2, and 1 ore.
The coins of the three Scandinavian kingdoms are freely inter-
changeable, at par value. A supply (easily obtainable) of silver coin
(Smaajpenge, or small coin) should always be carried by travellers in
the interior of the country, where banknotes or gold pieces (Nor-
wegian or British) are sometimes difficult to change.
The paper cv/rrency (always at par) consists of banknotes for
1000 kr., 500 kr., 100 kr., 50 kr., 10 kr., and 5 kr.
Except in towns (where Swedish or Danish notes circulate at
par), it is best to carry only Norwegian banknotes, and none ab ove
the value of 50 kr.
[Ohs. — British banknotes are readily exchanged by bankers, tourist
agents, and at hotels, sometimes at the current rate of exchange (minus
commission), which can rise to 18.20 kr. per £» Bankers always give the
current exchange for circular notes, as well as for cheques, when the parties
drawing them are known. Many of the British yioe-Consuls on the coast
do banking business.]
A table reducing British into Norwegian money, and 'oice versa,
will be found inside the cover of this book.
' Previously, the denominations of the currency were specie dollars,
marks, and skillings. They are still occasionally quoted by the peasantry.
They represented —
1 S. dollar, about 4s. 6d. (4 kr.)
1 mark or ort (24 skillings), about lOfd.
1 skillin^, a little less than ^d.
Mails and Postages ; Telegraph and Telephone. [55]
VII. Mails and Postages ; Telegraph and Telephone.
1. Madia, — Letters from Great Britain to any part of Norway, vid
Copenhagen, go first to Christiania, and vice versd, so that letters
addressed to Bergen or Trondhjem reach in about five to six days —
viz. two and a-half to three days for the route from England to Chris-
tiania, two to three days from Christiania to Bergen, or one day from
Christiania to Trondhjem. Tourists travelling in Norway should have
their letters sent by the mail steamers running between Newcastle-on-
Tyne and Bergen three times a week. The envelopes must be crossed
vid Newcastle.
2. Post-offices, — For a half-ounce letter between Great Britain and
Norway a 2^d, (20 ore) stamp is required. The postage from Norway
to Sweden or Denmark is 10 ore, and to all other parts of Europe, as
well as to the United States of America, 20 ore. The inland Tnim'Tmim
rate is 10 6re.
Should the postage not be prepaid, or be paid short of the full
amount, the receiver is charged in some cases nearly three times the
deficiency.
Foreign post-cards are 10 ore each ; inland (Sweden and Denmark
included) 5 ore.
The registering fee for foreign letters is 20 ore, for inland 10 ore.
Foreign money letters can only be sent as registered letters, the
responsibility of the post-office being as for a registered letter, not for
the actual value transmitted.
3. Telegraphs, — The internal rate is 60 ore for the first ten words,
and 5 ore more for every additional word ; from any station in Norway
to any in Great Britain, 26 ore for each word, three words being the
minimum number.
To the United States the charge ranges from 76 ore to 2.10 kr. per
word, according to the distance of destination beyond New York.
A word must not contain more than fifteen letters for inland tele-
grams, and ten letters for foreign ; five figures count as a word for
inland, and three for foreign telegrams ; stops are not counted. The
address and signature are included in the number of words in all
telegrams, but the telegraph-office does not require the signature to be
added. Travellers will find that most places they visit are within the
telegraph system. Telegrams must be written legibly in vrik,
4. Telephone, — This highly usefiil service is more developed in
Norway than in most other countries. At Christiania, for instance,
not only business, but social engagements, household purchases, &c.,
are effected and arranged by telephone.
N.B. — Locally, the tax is only 60 ore for a conversation of five
minutes, but 60 ore extra are payable when the communication is with
a neighbouring town having a separate telephone system. Even the
posting-stations on the main Boutes are now frequently found con-
nected by this rapid means of communication.
[66] Sport : Anglmg and Shooting.
Tin. Sport: Angling and Shooting.
I. Angling. — The countless lakes and rivers of Norway, mostly
well stocked with fish, render the country the most tempting one in
Europe to the angler. The fish of foremost interest are salmon^
troutj gra/ylmg, and cha/r.
Fishery Lcuws, Sc, — The right of freshwater fishing (including the
tideways) accrues as a rule in Norway to the owner of the soil. In the
interior of the country there are many high-lying wood and mountain
districts which do not belong to private individuals, but which form
so-called " Almenninger," or common lands, used in common by the
people dwelling in the adjacent parish or parishes ; and in the rivers
of those almenninger every inhabitant of the district has a right to
fish. In the northernmost parts of the country, more especially, the
State owns large districts, and in these the whole of the fishing rights
belong to the State or its lessees. The superintendence of the salmon
and other freshwater fisheries is entrusted to an inspector of fisheries
at Christiania. The law of June 20, 1891,^ prohibits the catching or
killing of sahnon and sea- trout in the sea from Aug. 26 to April 14,
and in lakes and rivers from Aug. 26 to April 30, both dates included.
There is also a weekly close-time, which, from the commencement of
the year 1898, will last from Friday 6 p.m. to Monday 6 p.m. In 1892
the close-time will be from Saturday 6 p.m. to Sunday 6 p.m., but in
many provinces, by special Government decrees, 3, and in some in-
stances 4, days' extension of such time is authorised in respect of the
use of Jcilenoter (bag-nets) in the sea, and nets and traps in rivers
during that year. Eod-fishing is permitted during the weekly close-
time. Nets with smaller meshes than 5*8 cm. ( = 2*28 in.) between the
knots may not be employed in taking salmon or sea-trout, and the
same rule applies to the distance between vertical bars in traps. The
use of leisters (spears) or foul-hookiug engines is prohibited ; likewise
all apparatus or methods of fishing by which salmon or trout fry of a
length less than 21 cm. ( = 8*27 in.) may be caught. The sale of such
fry is prohibited. Fixed nets or other fixed engines cannot as a rule
be used nearer the mid-stream line {medium filumY than at one-
eighth (or in certain cases one-sixth) of the width of the river. The
Government can prohibit the use of certain kinds of nets at the mouths
of sahnon rivers. For sea-trout most of these rules hold good only for
the rivers in which salmon are caught, and with regard to the fjords
or sea. Infringement of the above rules involves a fine, and in certain
cases confiscation. The public prosecutor institutes proceedings.
Fishery overseers (or bailiffs) are in most districts established. Ex-
penses connected with this are to be provided for, half by an impost
on the fishery owners, and the remainder by a grant from the Treasury.
These laws and regulations do not apply to rivers that form the boun-
* An Eng. abstract has been published by F. Beyer, Bergen.
"^ The site of which is to be determined, in the event of dispute, by the
decision of the "Lensmand '' (police magistrate) and 2 men appointed by
the Foged (baillie).
Sport : Angling cmd Shooting. [67]
dary of a neighbouring State (namely, the Tana, Pasvik, and Ostre
Jacobs elv), where the Govemment is empowered to make regulations
for the fishing. A special ordinance of May 4, 1872, regulates the
fishing in the Tana.
In regard to the taking of other freshwater fish, a law of May 27,
1887, empowers the Government, on petition firom the local authori-
ties, to forbid within a certain district the use of fishing appliances
considered to be hurtful to the fishery, and also to establish an annual
close time for the different kinds of fish. A fine is leviable for the
transgression of such rules. A number of them have been made,
especially for districts within the prefectures of Hedemarken, Christian,
and Buskerud. Anglers should bear in mind that some of the rules con-
tain a prohibition either of rod<fishing or of the use of certain kinds of
angling appliances. Fishermen should therefore, in every district in
which they wish to fish, inquire firom the lensman (the local police
magistrate) or from some other rehable person the nature and scope
of existing local regulations. A Hst of all angling prohibitions is
generally published every second or third year by the Inspector of
Fisheries in the " Norsk Jseger-og Fisker-Forenings Tidskrift " (the
Norwegian Shooting and Fishing Association Magazine). Aliens, as
well as natives, can become members of the association by paying an
annual subscription of 5 kr. (5«. 6^.), or one sum of 100 kr. {51, lis. Id.)
Members receive without further payment a copy of a journal pub-
lished quarterly. Names and subscriptions can be given to M. Lund,
bookseller, Christiania.
The pay of boatmen and gilhes is generally 2 to 3 kr. per diem,
according to the locality and season.
Season for Fishing, — In comparison with the rivers in Great
Britain and Ireland, the Norwegian salmon rivers are late and the
fishing season short. Generally speaking, July must be considered as
the best month for fishing. In the southern and western districts, and
in those about Trondhjem the fishing in many of the rivers is good
also in the last half of June, but seldom earher; while, especially in
the northern districts, the month of August, or the first half of it, is
just as good as, or even better than, July. In several rivers in the
northern part of the country good sport can be had even in the latter
half of August — in a few rivers even in the first half of September.
It win, however, be seen from our description of the several rivers
that the fishing season varies greatly, even in the case of rivers quite
close to each other. It should be specially borne in mind that rivers
which in their lower course fiow through large and deep lakes are
generally late. The largest fish are caught as a rule at the beginning
of the fishing season. Grilse do not ordinarily appear much before the
end of June.
Without taking into account the autumn floods, there are in all the
large rivers of Norway — in many of the smaller ones also — as a rule,
two regular floods in the year. The first, early in the spring, caused
by the melting of snow in the valleys and on the lower, often wooded,
bills ; the second, and far heavier one, at the end of May or in the first
half of June, due to the thawing of the snow on the vast mountain
plateaux,
[58] Sport : Angling and Bhootmg.
Until the flood last-mentioned (which does not, as a role, occnr in
rivers of which the channels do not partly run through high mountains
or mountainous districts) has partly subsided, it is hardly worth the
trouble of attempting to fish for salmon.
Fishing Leases, — ^The hiring of a sahnon river in Norway is always
attended with some difficulty, as proprietary rights are greatly sub-
divided, involving, as a rule (especially in the case of large rivers),
agreements with a great number of owners. Until very recently there
have been scarcely any agents in Norway to assist in the preparation
of such contracts, and foreigners have therefore been obliged to seek
the aid of personal friends.^
Assistance of a reliable kind can also be had at the local tourist
associations that now exist in most parts of the country. British
sporting interests are well guarded along the Norwegian coast by Vice-
Gonsuls, who are able and ever ready to give aid and advice.
We now proceed to describe in a general way the various kinds
of angling in the order of their importance. (For further details see
several Boutes.)
A. Salmon. — In the coast districts there are salmon in ahnost every
river, and there are hundreds of streams in which this noble fish
occurs. The greater part of the rivers are, however, small, or even
diminutive. Owing to the extremely rugged character of the country,
which causes nearly all the river-beds to have a rather steep declivity,
and which are more or less full of waterfalls, the sahnon, even in the
large rivers, as a rule, succeed in running up only a comparatively
short distance. With the exception of the Tana river, in Finmarken,
where salmon ascend to a distance exceeding 800 m. (includ-
ing tributaries), there are no rivers in Norway in which sahnon go
up more than 70 m. There are, in fact, not more than a dozen
accessible for sahnon for a greater distance than 80 m., and only
twenty-seven where they can ascend more than 15. Eelatively to the
extent of their catchment basins (hereafter designated c. 6.), the rivers
in W. and N. Norway carry a comparatively vast volume of water,
on account of the excessive rainfall in the coast districts. Some of
the rivers (especially in the Bergen " Stift ") are, moreover, fed firom
glaciers, and these have, especially in hot summers, a rich water supply.
A large number, therefore, of the smaller salmon rivers are well
fitted for sportsmen, at all events for some part of the season. Bod-
fishing in the rivers, however, is no longer so productive as it was
some time ago. Beyond all doubt the number of salmon in the
rivers has diminished, despite the measures and appliances enjoined
by the Government for fishery preservation. This is due mainly to
the very large increase during the last twenty-five years in the
number of appliances for catching fish in the sea, especially the
so-called " kilenoter '* (something like the Scotch bag- nets), of which
there exist at present in Norway not far firom 6000, while their
number is yearly on the increase by some hundreds. But, despite the
fact that far too many salmon are caught in the sea before they ascend
1 I'or Fishery Agents, see Ivdex^
Sport : Anglmg and Shooting, [59]
the rivers, rod-fishing for them in many rivers is still excellent. Thus,
in the early part of July 1885, three sportsmen caught in a short
reach of the Namsen r., within four days, 48 salmon, weighing
857 lbs. In the Tana r. an Englishman caught in the same year, in
one day, 335 lbs. weight of salmon. In the Vefsen r. two others
caught, in the summer of 1888, 288 salmon, weighing together more
than 5200 lbs. The size of the fish varies very much in the several
rivers, but must, on the whole, be characterised as considerable. Year
by year a fish or two of extraordinary size is occasionally netted or
caught. In the Voss r. a fish was caught (in 1884) of 52 lbs. It was
hooked by an English lady, and landed by her husband ; while in the
Tana, the Kussian Crown bailiff landed (in 1879, at Utsjok) a salmon of
the enormous weight of 73 lbs. This is, perhaps, the biggest salmon
that has ever been caught in any river with rod and Ime. On the
Aaro r., in Sogn, well-known for its large and clumsy fish, a story is
told of a salmon having been taken (not with the rod) of the unusual
weight of nearly 100 lbs. But the trustworthiness of this record is not
fully established. Nevertheless, it is a fact that five or six years ago,
in the winter time (a little before Christmas), a dead salmon, probably
killed by the ice, weighing 60 lbs., was found in the same river ; in
summer, when "in condition," it must have weighed considerably
more.
Although there is so great a number of salmon rivers in Norway,
it is not very easy to rent one. Very many of them, when fre-
quented by salmon, are naturally too small to offer sufficient sport.
In any case, they afford the chance of sport for so short a time each
year that no fisherman would consider it worth his while to pass the
summer on the spot. Of the considerable niunber of rivers which the
sportsman might deem to be worth fishing, very few remain unleased ;
for it has become more and more usual for English sportsmen to rent
Norwegian rivers for a period of years, and consequently nearly all the
first-class waters have already been taken by fishermen who have
rented either the whole of a river or the best available reaches of it.
Except on the expiration of contracts, there are few opportunities of
acquiring good salmon-fishing rights. Even in such contingencies, the
lease is generally extended or transferred by the lessee to a friend,
without public advertisement. There are, however, still, in the B.
of Norway, some large rivers, either unlet or let only for short stretches.
The fishing on them being so valuable to the owners, the rent for an
entire river, or for good stretches of it, would be exorbitant.
This is the case in respect of the Laagen at Laurvik, the Nisser or
Nidr. at Arendal, and the Mandals r. at Mandal (of which more anon).
Even second and third class rivers are now for the most part taken up,
especially in S. and W. Norway^ where, however, a few still remain
.either unlet or leased to Norwegians with the object and right of
sub-letting.
It is, however, chiefly in the northernmost districts of Norway — in
the prefectures of Tromso and Finmarken — that there is still a rich field
for those who are prepared to stay four or five weeks in wilds remote
firom civilisation, where the sportsman must, as a rule, either sleep
in a tent or in a hut built aiid fmmished for his speciaJ use ; where no
[60] Sport : Anglitig and Shooting.
proviBions (except butter and milk) are obtainable, and where constant
war must be waged against that summer plague of Northern lands —
the mosquito.' On the other hand, Nature in those wilds appears to
the traveller in. an aspect full of novel charm and interest. Night is
there turned into day by the mild rays of the midnight sun ; unfamiliar
notes of arctic birds strike the ear from wood and copse, from moun-
tains, lakes, and morasses ; while the foot each moment presses rare
flowers and plants. In some of the rivers and lakes the fish have not
hitherto seen an artificial fly or a "phantom minnow.*'^ Spare
moments can be devoted to the exceptional opportunity of studying
the mode of life and the customs of one of the most remarkable races
in Europe — viz. the Lapps.
As regards third and fourth class rivers, they can be found m almost
every district of Western Norway (Ryfylke, Hardanger, Sogn, Sond-
fjord, Nordfjord, &c.), where beautiful and characteristic surroundings
generally impart an additional value to the stream itself, which can
usually be fished from the bank, a boat not being necessary as in the
case of the larger rivers. Moreover, in a great number of the small
rivers in question there is ample opportunity for catching sea-trout ;
and, as a rule, they can be rented at a moderate price — an advantage
that does not frequently occur in the case of first and second class
rivers.
We proceed to mention some of the beat salmon rivers in Norway,
beginning at the Eussian frontier and following the coast southwards.^
The means of reaching them, the accommodation to be obtained, &c.,
must be sought in the several Routes in which the rivers occur.
1. The Pasvik (c. b, about 4400 Eng. sq. m., d, 7 m.) forms for a
long distance the boundary of Russia, but nms at its lower part entirely
through Norwegian territory. The bulk of the salmon (which run up
to 50 and 60 lbs.) do not get beyond the Skoltefos, only 2 or 3 m.
from the fjord. (See Route 45.)
2. The E, Jacobs elv, some m. to the E., and the Neiden (c. b,
about 540 sq. m.), some m. W. of the Pasvik, are good salmon rivers.
For particulars respecting the Neiden, apply to Mr. Hans Esbensen,
Vadso.
3. The Tana (c. &. about 5700 sq. m.) is one of the largest rivers
in Norway, and for a long distance divides the kingdom from the
Grand Duchy of Finland. It is a first-rate sporting river, but the
angler will hardly be able to avoid living in a tent, serviceable cottages
being scarce. The best places for fishing are found at certain Fosses,
called GuoiTca in Lappish (and which are rapids rather than
waterfalls), viz. Seidafos, Storfossene, Galgofos, as well as at the
* For precautions, see " XI. Hints to Travellers."
'^ We cannot attempt to give advice in regard to the tackle, flies, and
other artificial bait to be used in various parts of the country, of which the*
requirements are weU known to British tackle-makers. Very good English
appliances can now be obtained in the principal cities of Norway, especially
at Christiania.
' In parenthesis, after the names, are given in most cases the size of
the catchment basin (c. 6.), and the approximate distance (d.) to which
salmon can run up.
8'port : Angliiig and SJwuting. [61]
mouths of the tributaries — the Levojok and the Valijoh. The latter
is about 110 m. from the estuary of the Tana. Exceptionally as re-
gards Norwegian rivers, neither the whole of the Tana, nor any portion
of it, can be obtained on lease with an exclusive right of fishii^. As
the boundary between Norway and Bussian Finland, and the fishing
being of great importance to the Lapps and Finns, a special law regu-
lates the catching of salmon in the Tana. The resident inhabitants of
the district (mostly Lapps and Finns) have equal fishing rights in the
river, while those who dwell outside the district, whether Norwegians
or aliens, must take an annual license from ^^Foged (baillie) of Tana,
at a cost to foreigners of 60 kr. (3Z. 6«. ^d.y The Hcense gives the
holder a right to fish in any part of the river where both banks are
within Norwegian territory. But anyone wishing to fish in that part
which forms the frontier (viz. in the best places) must obtain a siimlar
license (not exclusive) from the " Crown Lensman " in Utsjok. The
salmon in the Tana are of considerable size, and most excellent for the
table. The latter quality apphes generally to rivers in Finmarken.
Out of 158 salmon taken in 1886 in the Tana by two EngUshmen, nine-
teen were over 26 lbs., while seven were over 30 lbs. in weight ; the
average weight being about 20 lbs.
Li August there is excellent aea-trout fishing at the mouth of the
river.
4. A river fi&r too little noticed by the angler, but admirably adapted
for rod-fishing, is the Laks-elv. It falls into the head of the great
Porsangerfjord, which cuts into the district directly E. of the N. Cape.
(See Boute 45.) Kistrand is the nearest stopping-place for the steamer
— about 30 m. from the mouth of the river. At no great distance there
is a dwelling-house, but household requisites must be brought. The
salmon are from 12 to 30 lbs. weight, and often larger. The best
fishing is below the Kobbefos. In August there is first-rate sea-trout
fishing in the lower part of the river. As the Laks-elv is owned chiefly
by this State, application for a lease must be made to the Foged in
Haromerfest.
5. Few rivers in Norway have gained so great a repute as the
Alten (c, h, about 2660 sq. m., d, 28 m.), which for many years was
rented by the late Duke of Boxburghe. In 1847 anEngUshnian took in
it, within fourteen days, 2600 lbs. of salmon, weighing from 15 to 86 lbs.,
and it is still a splendid salmon river. The whole of it has recently been
leased to an EngHshman for twenty years. In 1890 his party, con-
sisting of four rods, landed 11,970 lbs., the average weight of the fish
being 21^ lbs.
6. The Beisen eh) (c. 6. 1190 sq. m., d, 60 m.), between Hammer-
fest and Tromso, was in earher days known as a capital sporting river,
but is said to have fallen off considerably of late. The best fishing
places are in the neighbourhood of the Ovrefos, above which salmon
do not ascend. A great number of salmon usually lie immediately
imder this fall, but the spot is difficult of access on account of the
rugged nature of the banks. Not far from it is an available house that
belongs to the State, which owns also the greater part of the river. The
' The price will, perhaps, soon be somewhat raised.
[62] Sport : Angling and Shooting.
lower 8 m. are useless for fishing, the river becoming very clayey after
the conflnenoe of a tributary. Applications for a lease must be made
to the Foged, or to Mr. Odin Troye, both at Tromso.
7. At the head of the Salten Fjord, near Bodo, is the SaltdaU elv
(c, h. 660 sq. m., d, 80 m.), a river with a considerable volume of water.
The greater part of the stream is very rapid, and it sometimes shifbs
its course. Bunning through a beautiful valley containing many large
and well-built houses, a lessee can easily procure suitable accommoda-
tion. The fishing is leased to a Norwegian, who is, however, willing
to sublet. It is a very late river, the best season being generally August,
and it is scarcely worth trying before the latter half of July. In
autumn it holds a considerable quantity of sea-trout,
8. The considerable Vefaen r. (c, h, 1968 sq. m.) disembogues at the
small town of Mosjoen. Very few salmon had succeeded in surmount-
ing the Fosjordfos (about 10 m. from the fjord) until the present
salmon-ladder was constructed. A great number of salmon now run
up to the Laksfos, about 9 m. higher up, and no doubt even farther.
Salmon-ladders have also been placed at the Laksfos (over 50 ft;, high)
as well as at the Fellingfos (14 ft.), 6 m. beyond. The considerable ex-
tension of accessible spawning-beds will no doubt increase vastly the
quantity of salmon in the Vefeen, which is even now by no means
small.
Timber floating, formerly very disturbing to the fishing, has now
almost ceased, since the pine -forests, the remnants of which belong to
the English North of Europe Land Company, were almost entirely
destroyed by a former company. Inquiries respecting leases should
be made to the British Vice-Consul at Mosjoen, or to Herr Johan
Brodtkorb at Thjoto. (For farther particulars, see Boute 40.)
9. Amongst all the salmon rivers of Norway perhaps none have
stood in such high estimation as the Namsen (c. b, 2428 sq. m., d. 42 m.),
which falls into the Namsenfjord at the small town of Namsos, in N.
Trondhjem pref. The upper reaches have for many years been rented
by English fishermen, and during latter years the leases have extended
to almost the entire river, excepting its lowest part, where the stream is
too still for fishing. Of late years seven to nine English sporting purties
have fished the river. Numerous well-built houses are to be found in
the neighbourhood, and many of the inhabitants are able to supply all
necessary service and attention. The salmon in this river are large, fish
of 40 lbs. weight being not uncommon ; but the size has perceptibly di-
minished. Although during the last twenty years a great number of
" Kilenoter " have been used in the fjord and on the adjoining coast, yet
that the river is rich in fish is evident from the amount caught every
year. Official returns for the years 1886-88 show a yearly average of
about 22,000 lbs., of which by far the larger quantity was taken by
the rod. Timber floating (on a considerable scale) is no small impedi-
ment to the angler.
10. No fewer than six fine rivers run into the Trondhjem fjord—
viz. the Stenkjcer elv, the Vcerdal, the Stjordaly the Nidj the Gula,
and the OrJcla. Of these, the Gula and the Orkla must be noted
as first-class rivers ; next in rank come the Stjordal and the Stenkjaer,
which are also good rivers ; while, notwithstanding its size, the Nid
Sport : Angling wad BhooHng. [63]
(c. b, 1247 sq. m.) is unimportant as a salmon river, the picturesque
Lerfos preventing fish from going up the river more than a few miles.
The VcBrdal r. (c. 6. 567 sq. m., d, 18 m.) is certainly better than the
Nid r., but by no means equal to expectations from its appearance, owing,
perhaps chiefly, to its becoming much discoloured in floods by clay.
On the StenhjcBT r. (718 sq. m.), which forms the outlet of the Snaasen
lake (about 30 m. in length), there is Httle, if any, fishing above the
small Byfos, about 3 m. from the fjord. The regulating power of the
Snaasen lake renders the water supply in this river exceptionally even,
and the level is only to a slight extent influenced by sudden floods.
The low temperature of the water in early stunmer (caused by its
flowing from the lake) makes the river a much later one than the
other rivers flowing into the Trondhjem fjord. The best season for
fishing is therefore usually August or the end of July. Almost the
whole of the fishing belongs to Mr. Gram, who lives close to Stenkj©r,
It has for many years been leased by an EngUshman. (See Boute 38.)
The Stjordals elv (c. h, 868 sq. m., d, 38 m.) is far earlier than the
StenkJ8er,but in dry summers becomes too low as the season advances.
June and the early part of July is the proper fishing time ; and the
best reaches are in the upper part of the river, which for a number of
years has been let to Englishmen. The lower part of the river, which
affords fairly good sport, is frequently unlet. (See Route 37.) The Ghiln
(c, b, 1405 sq. m., d. 67 m.) has, like the Namsen, been most visited by
foreign anglers. Of late years the river has been leased by five or six
parties of EngUshmen. There is certainly room for more, even though
the best reaches are taken. Below the Gulfos (near Hovin rly.
stat.) the river is less fitted for rod-fishing than higher up, since it
here takes in a very clayey tributary, and becomes therefore in its
lower course too thick during floods. (See Route 14.) The OrMa
(c. b. 1347 sq. m., d. 56 m.) is likewise a salmon river admirably fur-
nished with numerous fine pools, spread over a course of about 40 m.
There are generally three or four Enghsh parties on it. In both of
the two last-named rivers the fishing would be enormously improved
if anglers would buy up the fishing rights in the lower part of the
river, where the owners use only sweep-nets, which kill a far greater
quantity of fish than that taken by the rod in the upper reaches of
the river.
11. The Nordmore bailiwick has two large rivers, the 8wma or
Surendah elv (c. b, 420 sq. m., d, 30 m.), and the Driva or StmdaU
elv (c. h. 1004 sq. m., d, 50 m.) They are both very good salmon rivers.
Almost the whole of the Suma has for a long time been let for angling.
On the other hand, the Driva is at present let only in its lowest part.
If the numerous traps in the many small fosses of the river, in which
a considerable number of fish are killed, and which seriously prevent
the fish from ascending, were bought off, wonderful sport would be
obtained above the reaches already occupied to a distance of 20 m. from
the fjord. Higher up, the banks of the river are generally so rugged
that rod-fishing is in most places impossible. Lensmand Oie in Sundalen
might promote such an arrangement. In some seasons an immense
number of aea-trout are taken in these rivers. They are locaUy called
Jchidd.
[64] Sport : Angling and Shooting.
12. In the Bomsdal bailiwick, renowned for its beautiful soenery,
are two large sahnon rivers — the Era or Eridsfjord elv (c, b, 425
sq. m., <2. 24 m.) and the Bawma (c. 6. 458 sq. m., d, 27 m.) The Era
runs through the Eikisdalsvand lake (about 12 m. long), which is one
of the most beautiful, if not the grandest, sheet of water of all the
thousands of Norwegian lakes. The fishing is almost exclusively on
the 4 or 5 m. reach between the sea and EikisdaJsvand. In 1860,
2569 lbs. of salmon were taken by one rod in thirty-nine days — i.e, on
an average about 66 lbs. a day. The large number of "kilenoter,"
however, which have later been used on the coast, render no longer
possible so large a catch. The reach below the lake has for a
number of years been leased to an Englishman, who in the autumn
of 1889 established a hatching apparatus calculated to hatch out
200,000 young ssJmon yearly. The Bawma has also of late years
given less sport than formerly. But it must stiU be mentioned as
an excellent river. One part of it is owned, and another rented,
by Englishmen ; but some parts of the river suitable for angling are
generally available. The old Aak Hotel water belongs to an English
gentleman.
13. The two best rivers in the Bergen stift (eccles. prov.) are the
Lcerdals elv (c. 6. 442 sq. m., d. 14 m.), in Sogn, and the Vosse elv or
BoUtad elv in Voss. The former is one of the rivers in Norway
which were first rented by Enghsh fishermen, and it has ever since
maintained its repute as an excellent river for sport. Almost all that
portion of the river in which salmon are found has therefore during
a long period been leased. At present the entire river is leased by an
Englishman. In 1881, 6088 lbs. of salmon were caught by rod in it,
in addition to a large quantity of sea- trout. It is remarkable for the
fact, so rare in Norway, that aU the best water can be fished from the
bank.
The Vcase elv (c. 6. 544 sq. m., d, 20 m.) is certainly not compar-
able with the Lserdal r., but gives excellent sport. The best fishing
places are in the reach from Evangervand down to the sea (2 to 3 m.),
and in a reach of about the same length just above the lake. The
greater part of the river is leased, partly by an Englishman, partly by
a Norwegian (willing to sublet a part to foreigners). The salmon in
this river often run very large, although their size seems even there to
have decreased in consequence of the excessive use of " kilenoter *' in
the fjord and on the shore outside.
14. The best sporting rivers in Stavanger pre£ are the Suldals
elv (c. 6. 586 sq. m., d. 15 m.), in Ryfylke, and Tengs elv or BjerJcreims
elv, at Egersund. The first (which runs through the Suldals lake
(17 m.) is a very late river. The best fishing does not usually begin
before August or late in July, and in the upper part of the river still
later. One reason of this is the existence of a fedl (Sandsfos) close
to the outlet in the sea, which the salmon cannot pass before the water
has fallen considerably after the spring flood. It is therefore permitted
to fish up to the end of October in this river. The whole of the river
below the Suldahvcmd (and it is only on this part that there is fishing)
is leased for a long period of years to three Englishmen, who have
made various arrangements to help the fish to ascend both the Sands-
Sport : Angling and Shooting. [65]
fos and a fall farther up. The saknon in thiR river attain a consider-
able size, and their number appears to have increased since the fishing
was leased about seven years ago. In the Tengs eh) (c. 6. 265 sq. m.)
salmon have only exceptionally ascended beyond the Foslands-fos, a
couple of miles from the estuary, where, as a rule, they have been
stopped, partly by the waterfall, partly by a trap placed there. But
in 1888 the Egersund Fishing Club hired the upper part of the river,
removed the trap, and made a pass in the fall, so that salmon now get up
without much difficulty. As above the fall the river contains a number
of fine spawning beds, it may be assumed that in a few years there will
be capital anglmg, and that the number of salmon will materially in-
crease in the river. Hitherto the fish in the Tengs elv have run very
small, one of 17 lbs. having been the largest taken by an English sports-
man who had the river for some years. Larger or smaller reaches of
the river may possibly be leased from the club above mentioned.
15. In the pref. of Lister and Mandal (one of the best salmon
fishing districts in Norway) there are, in addition to some smaller ones,
four important salmon rivers — viz. the Kvina, or Kvmeadals eh) (c. b,
614 sq. m., d, 7 m.), the Ma/ndals eVo, the TorrisdaU elv (or Otter elv),
and the Topdals elv. By the lease (three or four years ago) of the Kvina
to an Englishman, that river, wonderfully adapted as it is by nature
for fishing, was saved from the ruin that threatened it as a result of
the mischievous use (now abolished) of " Troldgajm " or nets closely
resembling the Welsh trammel-nets.
The Mandah elv (c. b, 680 sq. m., d, 35 m.) is at the present date
the most productive salmon river in Norway. Between 1884-86 the
average annual take was officially reported to be something over
61,800 lbs. Of that quantity scarcely any part was caught by the rod,
since only a very small portion of the river had been (and still is) leased
for rod-fishing. If the whole of the river were leased for sport it would
probably (at any rate in summers with favourable conditions of water)
become a better sporting water than any other Norwegian river, the
greater part of that portion of it which is accessible to salmon being
well adapted for fishing with the rod. But the rent would be heavy.
It is one of the earliest rivers in Norway, as some salmon ascend even
in the month of April. The Torrisdals elv (c. b. 1413 sq. m., d, 9 m.),
which runs into the sea at Christiansand, has suffered much from being
fouled by a large sawmill at Vigelands fos, where the ascent of the
salmon finds its limit. The best fishing is on the Vigeland water,
belonging to Mr. Consul Wild, in Christiansand. The fishery here is
not leased, but a lower reach has for a number of years been rented by
a fishing club at Christiansand.
Of far gireater importance than the Torrisdal r. is the Topdals elv
(c. b, 734 sq. m., d. 30 m.), though only half its size, and lying some
few m. farther E. There is a fall in it (Boenfos), about 4 m. from
the sea and about 45 ft. high. Notwithstanding the height of the
fos and its steep fall, salmon contrive, under favourable conditions of
water, to ascend it in numbers by no means inconsiderable. In fact
this is the highest fall not only in Norway, but in the whole of Europe,
which salmon can ascend without a ladder. The great majority of
fish remain, however, below the waterfall, and are caught in the waters
[Norway— yi. 92.] d
[66] S}fort : Angling and Shooting,
under it. The fishing there is one of the best for sahnon in Norway.
The owner (Mr. Hegermann) does not wish to let the fishing for a
long period, although permission to fish with a rod for some days, or
perhaps weeks, may sometimes be obtained. Bod-fishing above the
fall will hardly repay the angler, excepting, perhaps, in the short reach
between the Flaksvand lake and the Teinefos, which, though much
lower than the Boenfos, is undoubtedly a greater hindrance to the
ascending of fish than the latter. The fish in this river are of an
unusual shape^ being very narrow in proportion to their length, and
they never attain any great weight.
16. In Nedenaes pref. there is only one large salmon river — the
N laser elv, called also the Nid elv (c. b, 1633 sq. m., d, 7 m.) The take
of fish in this river has of late years been 16,000 to 18,000 lbs. annually ;
very few, however, are caught with the rod. Bod-fishing has hitherto
been very Httle resorted to in this river, though in many places it seems
naturally adapted for sport. The best water is owned by Mr. C. A.
Boe, of Arendal.
17. In the pref. of Jarlsberg and Laurvik there is likewise only one
salmon river — viz. the Laagen (c. 6. 2186 sq. m., d. 40 m.), which has
its outlet at Laurvik. Here also rod-fishing has hitherto been little
practised, although several reaches of the river can give good sport.
Owing to the constantly increasing use in the lower half of this river of
the so-called " Evje "- or " Flaade "-fishing (fixed nets peculiar to this
river), first-rate rod-fishing can, perhaps, no longer be expected ; but
good sport may still be had on the waters belonging to Mr. H. J. Aschjem.
(For aleaseapplytoa fishery agent, Christiania.) If some at least of the
most productive nets or traps in the lower part of the river were leased
(at considerable expense), splendid sport would no doubt be obtained.
Bod-fishing in the Laagen has long encountered a serious obstacle
in the refuse discharged firom a wood-pulp mill at the Vittingfos. But
this mischievous practice has now been stopped by the Government.
18. Only one considerable Norwegian salmon river, the Drams elv
(c. 6. 6520 sq. m., d. 18 m.), remains to be mentioned. Next to the
Mandal r., it is the most productive in the country. It is, however,
of little use for rod-fishing, as the salmon are very unwilHng to take
the fly or minnow, owing perhaps to the great depth of the river.
Having thus shortly mentioned all the salmon rivers in Norway
that are most valuable to the rod-fisher, we now enumerate (yet more
concisely) rivers of the second- Midi third class (or perhaps even of the
fourth class), following the same geographical order as before. In most
cases we continue to state in parenthesis the extent of the river basins
(c. 6.) as weU as the distances {d,) to which salmon ascend.
1. In Finmarken pref.: The W, Jacobs elv (3 m.) and STcal eh',
both near Vadso; the Kongs/jord elv, between Vardo and the Tanafjord.
2. In Tromso pref. : The Maals elv (c, b. 2231 sq. m., d. 23 m.), where
the number of salmon is not such as might be expected from the con-
siderable size of the river, which would no doubt be enormously im-
proved, if a salmon pass were constructed at the Malangen-fos.
3. In Nordland pref. : The Hydsaaen (c. b, 834 sq. m., d. 10 m.) — the
upper part suited for fishing, the lower (with clayey water) unfit ; the
Sport : Angling and ShooUng. [67]
Fust elu, in Vefsen (c. b, 224 eg. m., d. 6 m.) — generally let; and
the Bindals elv — let ; the Bcmen (c, &. 1623 sq. m.), the largest river
but one in Nordland, but not adapted for fishing.
4. N. Trondhjem pref. : The Bonga elv (c. h, 160 sq. m., d. 8 m.) ;
the Aargaa/rds elv (c. h, 208 sq. m., d, 4t m.)
5. Eomsdal pref. : The Todals elv (c. b, 85 sq. m., d, 14 m.) ;
the Valdals elv (c. b. 131 sq. m.) — let.
6. N. Bergenhus pref.: The Eida or Homing daU elv (c. b, 207 sq. m.,
d. 7 m.) — the greater part of it let to a Norwegian; ^ the StryiM elv*
{c. b. 211 sq. m., d. 7 m.) — ditto ; the Olden elv * (c, b, 95 sq. m., d.
2 m.) ; the Glopjpen* or Bredhemis elv (c. b, 232 sq. m., d, 3 m.) ; the
Forde elv (c. b. 263 sq. m., e2. 3 to 4 m.) ; and the Gcmla (c. 6. 246 sq. m.,
d.2 to B m.) The four last are let to EngUshmen. The Aaro elv *
(c. b. 221 sq. m., d, 1 or 2 m.) ; the Fortv/ns elv * (c. b, 178 sq. m., d,
10 m.) ; the Aardala elv * (c. b, 375 sq. m., d, 12 m.) ; the Av/rla/nda
elv {c, b, 286 sq. m., d, 7 m.) — the three last rented by Norwegians ;
the Floms elv (c. b. 104 sq. m., d, 3 m.) ; and the Ncero elv (c. 6. 108
sq. m., d, 7 m.) — the two last often let to Englishmen.
7. S. Bergenhus pref. : The Mo elv (c. 6. 123 sq. m., d. 3 m.) — rented
by a Norwegian ; the Eksmgdals elv (c. b, 130 sq. m., d, 2 m.)— rented
by an Englishman ; the Eidfjord elv (c. b. 387 sq. m., d. 7 m.) ; the
Aaj)o elv (c. b, 184 sq. m., d, l^m.) — ^rented by an Englishman ; and the
Etne elv (c. b. 90 sq. m., d, 7 ra.) — rented by a Norwegian.
8. Stavanger pref. : The Aardals elv (c. b. 197 sq. m., d, 7 m.) ; the
Figgen elv (c. b, 77 sq. m., d. 12 m.) — a very productive river, but in dry
summers too low for sport; and the Soggendah elv (c. b. Ill sq. m.,
d, 6 m.)
9. Lister and Mandal pref. : The 8ireaa{c. b. 722 sq. m.), well known
for its large salmon-ladders, by which of late years a considerable
extent of river and lake has been made accessible to salmon : fish-
ing rights belong to the Aaensire Salmon Fishery Co., at Flekkef jord ;
the Lyngdals elv (c. b. 259 sq. m., d. 14 m.) — has for many years been
rented by Englishmen; the Undals elv (c. 6. 174 sq. m., d, 20 m.) — a very
early river, now let.
10. Nedenses pref. : The Sondeled elv (c. &. 158 sq. m., d, 2 m.)
11. Bratsberg pref. : The SJciens elv (c. b, 4127 sq. m., d, 9 m.), one of
the largest rivers in Norway, but not well adapted for fishing, nor con-
taining many salmon. — In the largest river in Norway — viz. the
Glommen (c. b, 15,610 sq. m.) — there is almost no salmon-fishing, as
the Sarpfos prevents fish fi'om going up more than 9 m., and the lower
reach of the river has no good spawning- beds.
In addition to the above-named rivers there are a vast number of
others which salmon frequent; but these are all so smaU that profitable
sport will, as a rule, only be got under favourable conditions of water,
and only for a short time. This rule also holds good with regard to
some of the rivers we have just enumerated.
In all the rivers on the S. coast, as well as in the rivers in
' Bivers marked '*' gain their water supply in summer from glaciers, and
are therefore during hot seasons comparatively full of water. Many of the
other rivers derive their water also partly from glaciers.
d2
[68] Sport : Angling <md Shooting.
the two Trondhjem pref., timber-floating is largely carried on J
but in the other rivers this is not the case, or only to a very slight
extent.
B. Tbottt. — General observations. — Excepting in the lower-lying
districts of S.E. Norway (in the waters of which coarse fish predominate),
or in many lakes at a considerable altitude, and also in a few lakes
tenanted by other varieties offish in the interior of Finmarken, trout are
more or less abundant in every lake, tarn, and river in the country. They
are more especially numerous in the lakes of the high fjeld plateaux
(up to 4000 ft. above the sea, and even occasionally higher). Nowhere
in the world are trout more pink in colour, fatter, and of better flavour.
Their chief food consists of various crustacese, especially the Gammancs
pulex, which in many of the Norwegian lakes occurs in such quanti-
ties that nets cannot remain in the water a m'ght without being
damaged by these small voracious creatures. The waters in which
these crustacese most abound are, however, as a rule, not particularly
good for angling, since the fish in them do not generally care much for
the angler's fly or other artificial bait, and adhere to their natural food.
In many of the Norwegian lakes trout run to a vast size. In the
Mjosen lake they have been caught of the extraordinary weight of
36 lbs., and fish of 20 to 25 lbs. are taken there each year. In the
Tyri fjord (in earlier days) fish have reached a similar weight ; and
in the majority of the larger lakes trout of 12 to 15 lbs. are occa-
sionally landed. In the lakes, of the .high mountain plateaux they
seldom reach such great dimensions, but in return they are found
there vast in quantity and most excellent in quality. Trout of 4 and
5 lbs. and upwards occur constantly in those waters.
In the Norwegian lakes trout vary not only in size, but also to a
great extent in colour, markings (spots), and shape ; so that we are
tempted to say that every lake has its special and iudividual species
of trout, and even, occasionally, several such species in the same
water. It is, however, held by Norwegian ichthyologists that those
diversities are only accidental, being the result of varying external
circumstances in the several lakes, and that the individual character-
istics are not lasting or constant, but quickly lost or changed on the
removal of the fish to other waters.
Thus all the varieties are considered to belong to one and the same
kind (species). The correctness of this opinion would seem to be
proved by the many experiments that have been made in the stocking
of fishless waters with trout. — Many anglers have noticed that in most
lakes the fish are generally within a certain size.
Season for trouting, — The best fishing season for trout is the
month of July and the beginning of August. In low-lying lakes and
rivers good sport can also be had in the latter half of June, occasionally
even earlier. Thus, in the upper part of the Mjosen a quantity of the
large so-called Hunnerorret (great lake-trout) are caught at the end of
May or the beginning of June. Fishing in the lakes on the high
mountain plateaux is generally not worth attempting before about the
middle of July, but it remains good until about the middle of August ;
and sea-trout fishing is often best in the latter month.
Bight of fishing, dtc, — It is stiU quite easy to get good trout-
Sport : Angling and Shooting, [69]
fishing in Norway. For a short period this will be permitted in many
places without payment. The sole right of fishing for a period of
years must, of course, be paid for. Such renting has latterly become
more general ; and there still are, in every part of the country, count-
less rivers and lakes with capital trout-fishing, which anglers can rent,
often for a very moderate sum.
Trouting waters. — To enumerate even a fiftieth or a hundredth
part of the places where good trout-fishing can be got is an impos-
sibility. The number of such places is especially great in the W. and
N. coast districts, where every river that in its lower course runs
through large or small lakes offers superior fishing. But in those
districts the fish are generally rather smaller than in the interior of the
country. In the rivers accessible to fish from the sea a considerable
number of sea-trout are generally found late on in the summer. Like the
fireshwater-trout these occur in many different varieties, which, how-
ever, in the opinion of Norwegian ichthyologists, all belong to one and
the same species. In many of these waters a salmon or two may
occasionally be caught, and, as mentioned already, sea-trout sxe
found in considerable numbers in many of the regular salmon
rivers.
Among places that are specially noteworthy either as very good
or as easily accessible may be mentioned: the Nordmiam^dslaagen,
the Bjomsvandj and the adjacent upper portion of the course of the
Laagen, on the so-called Hardanger-vidde, in Buskerud pref. ; the
fishing in those waters, about 4000 ft. above the sea, is not to be sur-
passed ; but their situation being very remote and beyond the beaten
track, a tent and all food have to be carried; the Mjosvand, the
Tinsjb, and many of the small lakes on the road to the Haukeli ; also
the Nisservand, on the high road between Arendal and Telemarken ;
the Opsjoeuy Strandefjord, and the lakes and river-reaches above, in
Aal and Hoi; the Vinsterva/nd lakes, the Hevmdalsvand, and the
river-reaches thence down to Olstappen, on the fjeld between Valders
and Gudbrandsdal ; the Bussva/nd, and the Gjendeoset (the outlet of
Lake Gjende), in the Jotunheim ; the Bena (tributary of the Glommen),
especially the reach between Disaet and LosssBt; the Sevalen lake,
near Tonsaet ; the upper part of the Trysil elv from Lake Fsemund, and
thence lower down, and several lakes and rivers around the Fcemund
lake, in Hedemarken pref. ; the Biensjo and the upper waters and river-
reaches of the Glommen ; also the StuesjOy in the upper part of Tydal,
both in S. Trondhjem pref.; the Bam,gsjd near Snaasen; and the
Kvelisjo, the Murusjo, and other lakes and rivers in the pref. of N.
Trondhjem; the Svenningdal lakes in the Vefsen district; and the
Altevand, at Bardo, in Tromso pref. This large lake is one of the best
trouting lakes in Norway, but it is so very much out of the way that the
angler has to live in a tent and bring all his provisions with him.
On the other hand, it may be said, generally, that in the large
rivers that run through the principal vaJleys in the E. part of the
country, such as the Glommen, the Laagen, the Drammen, &c., the
trout-fishing is not good, except here and there in their upper courses ;
neither do the small rivers that run out on the S. coast afford good
sport. In the interior of Finmarken, also, there are many lakes in
[70] Sport : Angling and Shooting.
which the trout-fishing is inferior. This is supposed to be due to
the faet that in these lakes perch and other coarse fish are present to
destroy a quantity of young trout and trout-spawn.
C. Grayling. — General observations. — This variety of fish has a
tolerably circumscribed area in Norway. In S. Norway it occurs
almost exclusively in the Trysil eh) and the Glommen (and their several
tributaries), and in the Bauma (connected with the Glommen by
means of the Laagen, a tributary of the Glommen). In the N. of
Norway only in the Maal8\elv (Tromso pref.), as well as in the following
rivers in Finmarken : the Laics elv (to a very small extent), the Tana
(where fish of IJ lb. have taken a large salmon fly), the Neiden, and
the Pasmk,
Fishing season. — July and August are the best months. In the
extreme N. (the Pasvik) the fishing is not good before the middle of
July, whilst in the S. (the Vormen) it is best in August. • In the
Glommen and the Laagen the farmers take a considerable quantity
with the rod, even in the month of May ; but this practice is injurious,
as grayling spawn at that time of the year. It is scarcely necessary to
remind anglers that this fish is seldom foimd in the still reaches of a
river, but in rapids, below waterfalls, and generally where there is a
current more or less swift.
In the proper season grayling rise well at the fly (especially when
dressed yellow and red). Very small flies should be used, as the fish
has a small and tender mouth.
Fishing rights, dc, — Same circumstances as in the case of trout.
Best grayling waters, — The best place for grayling-fishing in
Norway is, undoubtedly, the Han^e fas, on the Pasviky in Finmarken,
about 7 m. above the mouth of the river. Under favourable circum-
stances, both just above and below the fall a great number of grayling
can be taken m a very short time, either with a fly or minnow ; their
weight, however, seldom exceeds 2 lbs., though, as an exception, it can
run up to 3 and 4 lbs. In the Fjeldfrosk elv (a tributary of theMaals r.,
in Tromso pref.) excellent grayling-fishing is also to be had at the
upper end of a so-called " Lompalo " (tarn) just below the fall. This
river, with its lakes, is at the same time an excellent trout river, and
some char are found in it- Quarters at Bjorkeng or Overby.
The best fishing-places in S. Norway are, perhaps, in the upper
parts of the Trysil elv ; but very good sport is to be had on the Bena,
a tributary of the Glommen, especially between Disset and Lossset.
Some sport can be got in almost all swift parts of the Glommen^ from.
Jensvold rly. stat. down to Elverum, as well as here and there in
the swift parts of the Glommen farther S., down to the Oieren lake.
This applies also to the Laagen r. S. of the Mjosen may be mentioned
the 8va/nfos in the Vormen r., 8 m. S. of Eidsvold. In the Bauma
the grayUng-fishing is of little consequence.
D. Char. — General observations, — Char are to be found here and
there in nearly all parts of the country, although they are entirely
absent in some considerable portions of the interior. They are most
common in the northern districts of the country, whe re they are nearly
as. general as trout. S. of the Nordland pref. char occur almost ex-
clusively in lakes, but in the N. parts of Norway — namely, in the
Sport : Angling and Shooting, [71]
Tromso and Finmarken prefs. — the fish is an habitual native of the
rivers and brooks. It even seeks in great quantities the sea, where it
becomes silvery as salmon, but without the dark spots of the &almon,
like which, in summer, it ascends the rivers from the sea. Although
the char has a far wider geographical range in Norway than the gray-
ling, its importance as a sporting fish is scarcely greater.
Fishing season^ dc, — In most parts of the country char are rather
unwilling to take the fly or other artificial bait, and it is only early in
the summer, when the bird-cherry is in bloom, that they can be very
successfully fished for with fly (chiefly red palmer). In the N. of
Norway, and especially in Tromso and Finmarken prefs., on the
other hand, they are more ready to take (in July and August) the fly,
although scarcely anywhere so freely as the trout. We may mention
that in the high-level lakes of Jemtland, in Sweden (bordering on
Norway), char take the fly very freely from about Midsummer day tc
the middle of July, and later on they sometimes take the " phantom "
readily; but their local habits in this respect seem to dififer much.
A few years ago the tackle ("plumb line") used for char in some of
the Cumberland lakes was tried in Norway, but without much succesp,
owing, perhaps, to want of experience and practice in management.
Other anglers well acquainted with its use should try it on the Nor-
wegian laJses in which the larger char are found, and thus extend the
field for char-fishing.
Char waters, — The silvery char mentioned above (which can
attain a weight of 8 to 9 lbs., and will rise well to the fly) are most
excellent for the table, surpassing, perhaps, in that respect every other
kind of Norwegian fish, salmon not excepted. The southernmost river
in which it occurs in any considerable quantity is the Ma^ls r. (Tromso).
Other rivers in which this char is found are the Skibotten elv (c. h.
112 sq. m.), in the Lyngen fjord (Tromso), and the Stabursnees ehf
(c. b, about 116 sq. m.), and Bors eh) (c. 6. about 165 sq. m.), which
fall into the Porsanger fjord (Finmarken). The two last mentioned
contain also no small amount of salmon, while the B5rs elv would be a
very good salmon river if its bottom were not so light-coloured and its
water so transparent. The best inland char-fishing is obtainable in
the extensive Bosvamd lake, in Ve&en, Nordland (next in size to the
Mjosen), This water, which, like the smaller Tustervamd (connected
with the Bosvand by a short rapid), swarms with char, belongs to the
English N. of Europe Land Co. (See Boute 40.)
E. Other Freshwateb-fish. — Amongst other sporting fish we can
only mention the Sih (Coregonus lava/reius), the rare British gwiniadj
or freshwater-herring. It inhabits deep waters, and is mostly taken
in nets ; but in Bussian Finland (where it runs up to 10 lbs.) it has
been found to rise freely in warm weather to a fly dressed white and
red. It is a shy riser, very deKoate mouthed, and more difiicult even
than the grayling to kill. Another species of Coregonus — albula — is
of no importance to the angler. Pilce and jperch, and the carp species,
reach a smaller size than in England, and are not so numerous as in
Sweden or Finland.
F. Sea-fish. — ^In addition to the sea-trout of which frequent
mention has been already made, the W. coast (especially the N. part)
[72] Sport: Angling and Shooting.
and the fjords abound in every variety of sea-fish. The 8ei (coal-fisii)
affords, perhaps, the best sport. They run to a considerable size at
Molde, where they have to be fished at a depth of 50 fins. ; they are
found also in the Christiania fjord as high up as Drobak, where (in
July) the narrow sound swarms with them, as well as with herring^
cod, codUng, haddock, flat fish of various descriptions, and whiting.
The Hvaloemet a little S. of Fredrikstad, are islands off which the cod-
fishing is very good. Cod and haddock of huge size are taken among
the Lofoten islands and off the N. Gape, at which the tourist steamers
stop to enable passengers to fish with tackle supplied to them. The
^aZi^i^^fishing on parts of the W. coast — for instance, off Sartor island
(W. of Bergen) — is very exciting, the fish running up to 2 cwt., and
having to be hauled up firom a depth of 40 to 50 fins. The native
tackle is best adapted for such sport, and will be found at almost every
place at which a steamer stops. An instrument called the Pilk, con-
sisting of a bright bait in uie form of a fish, with two large hooks
(and sometimes a " triangle " attached beneath), is very killing in
the case of cod, haddock, sei, and large whiting. It is gently
** jiggered" at a depth of about 6 ft. from the bottom. Even in
the case of sea-fishing, success is greatly dependent on the fineness
of lines, &c.
II. Shooting. — Game Laws. — ^A law for the protection of game was
not enacted in Norway until 1845, and it has since, at various periods,
been amended and extended. The close time for game, wild birds, &c.,
is at present as follows :
Elk : in Nordland fi*om November 1 to August 1 ; in Namdalen
firom October 15 to September 1 ; in S. Trondhjem prefect, firom Octo-
ber 15 to September 15 ; in some localities the close season has been
extended to several years, in others to the whole year except 14
days. The sportsman must be careful to obtain local information,
and to remember that for offences against the laws, such as ki lh 'ng
an elk out of season, or killing more than one on the same farm or
single property, he renders himself liable to a very heavy fine, which
is sure to be enforced, as half the fine goes to the informer. Not-
withstanding these strict enactments, elk-poaching is by no means
uncommon. Similar diversity in the close time exists in the case of
red-deer, the general close season for which is November 1 to Septem-
ber 15. As a rule, only stags can be shot, and only two (in some
districts one) annually on the same fiurm.
N.B. — In the case both of elk and red-deer, a royal license must
be obtained for shooting them on State or com/mu/ncd lands,
Beindeer : September 16 to August 15, both days included. One-
year-old calves must not be shot. Bears, wolves, lynxes, and, generally,
beasts and birds of prey are not protected. On the conjarary, premiums
are paid for their destruction. Hares are freed firom June 1 to August 15 ;
but the dates vary in some places.
Capercailzie (hen) and greyhen : March 15 to August 15. Caper-
cailzie (cock), blackcock, ptarmigan and willow -grouse, hazel-grouse :
May 15 to August 15. Partridge : January 1 to September 1«
The dose season for these birds varies locally.
Sport : Angling and Shootmg. [73]
General observations, — Amongst the best places to select for gene-
ral shooting are the mountains on the borders of Sweden (Osterdalen),
the Dovre, Fille, Sogn, and Haukeli fjelds, the Eomsdal, and the Lom
(Gudbrandsdal), the Hallingdal districts (Buskerud pref.), and those of
Salten and Banen.
The wild beasts and birds that attract so many sportsmen to
Norway are principally the following :
(a) Big Game. — ElJc, — As a result of the introduction of game laws
(which did not exist prior to 1845), and the disappearance, to a great
extent, of wolves, this huge noble animal — a big bull will stand eighteen
hands at the withers, and weigh 1500 lbs. — has greatly increased in
numbers during the last ten years, particularly in the Sonden- and
Norden-fjeldske regions — viz. in the Smaalenene, Hedemarken, and
Buskerud prefs. (neighbouring Christiania), and N. in the districts on
the Trondhjem fjord, and in the Namdalen (N. Trondhjem pref.) Its
increase in the S. is specially noticeable. Only one elk can be shot
on each matriculated property, the bulk of proprietors having the
right of shooting only one ; and it is only the larger landowners (in
the S.) with several numbered estates (independent of size) that can
shoot more. In such cases battues are organised. This rule does not
apply to the Crown (pubhc) domains.
In the case both of elk and reindeer stalking, success can be attained
only by the hardy sportsman with plenty of spare time, iniired to
fatigue, well acquainted with the country or guided by an experienced
native stalker (about 5 kr. a day), and prepared to camp out on the
fjeld or in a rough sceter^ where a posting-station or feunn-house is not
conveniently available. Whilst the reindeer keeps to the highest fjelds
and the neighbourhood of snow and glacier, the elk frequents the great
swamps and pine-forests of the lower ground, although during summer
and autumn it will occasionally wander to a considerable altitude, and
lie out on the bare moor. Few animals are more wary or difficult of
approach, but late in the season the old buUs become now and then
bold and even dangerous, charging the hunter at sight. Both in Nor-
way and Sweden trained dogs are used in leaders for tracking the elk,
and are often loosed to find and bring him to bay. But by Norwegian
law the use of the loose dog is really forbidden. A considerable num-
ber of the best elk-forests in Norway are now rented by English and
German sportsmen. By the published returns of the Norsk Jteger-og
Fisker-Forening it is shown that during the season of 1889 there were
killed in Norway 850 elk, 515 being bulls and 885 cows. N. Trond-
hjem's prefect, afforded 303 out of this total, the prefect, of Namdalen
yielding 145, of which 104 were bulls. Akershus bailiwick comes next
with 118 elk, whilst in Nordland only 9 were killed. Diiring the same
period (on the average of different districts about a month), the return
from Swedish forests was 1782 elk ; but in that country there is no
limit to the number that may be killed on each farm, and the natives
never spare calves.
Wild reindeer are now found on the fjelds between lat. 62° and
69°. There are scarcely any from Eoros northwards, up to the N.
Cape, owing to that stretch of country being roamed over by herds of
tame reindeer, which a?e shui^ned by their wild congeners, Of T©peiit
[74] Sport : Angling and Shooting.
years the keeping of tame reindeer has been extended southwards to
the Hardanger-vidde and many other localities. This, together with
the establishment of more seeterSy and an increase in the number of
cattle and sheep, has been the principal cause of a noticeable falling
off in the number of reindeer within reach of the sportsman. Fifty
years ago herds of 200 to 400 were occasionally encountered, and a
sportsman could kill as many as twenty a day. A herd of 200 is now
but seldom seen. According to the same published report (mentioned
above) the total number of wild reindeer killed in Norway in 1889 was
471, Romsdal's prefect, being first with 143 head. Christian's prefect,
second with 122, and Lister and Mandal's prefect, last with only 3.
Great caution is needed in stalking reindeer, and the sportsman cannot
pay too much attention to the direction of the wind.
Bed- deer. — According to Professor Friis,^ of Christiania, there
are eleven localities where these are found — viz. three islands off the
Trondhjem coast (Hitteren the most important), and eight (mostly in-
significant) points on the neighbouring mainland, close to the sea.
Sir H. Pottinger * adds to this enumeration an island of considerable
size in the Namsen ^ord — the Ottero. There is, however, very little
sport in this direction, except for those already and for a long time
in possession of it. The total number of red-deer killed in Norway
during a single season is probably much short of 100.
Bears, somewhat general (although steadily decreasing) in most of
the forest districts of Norway, are most numerous in the prefs. of Tele-
marken, Nedenses, Nordland, and N. Trondhjem. There are not a few
on the Vefsen estate of the N. of Europe Land Co. It would scarcely
repay the British sportsman to visit the country for the special purpose
of killing them ; but occasional chances occur, of which advantage can
be taken while bent on other sport. Unless molested, bears rarely
attack men, but when only wounded will sometimes charge the
hunter, who, in default of being able to get in fresh cai-tridges quickly
enough or to retreat, may, if he likes, try the expedient of lying down
with his face to the ground and suspending as much as possible his
breathing. But perhaps not to go out bear-hunting is preferable to
being reduced to this doubtful means of escape. The she-bear will
invariably face the hunter in defence of her cubs, if she believes
them to be in danger ; but, if time allows, she will force the cubs to
conceal themselves amongst the rocks or by climbing trees, and herself
lie in wait close by to watch the result. Bears have been hunted by
Englishmen in Norway with some success by employing small black
colley dogs, trained at home to follow the trail of a dead cat through
eoverts stocked with game, the scent of the cat being not unlike that
of the bear. The dogs are kept in hand by long leaders, but the im-
mense distance that a bear will travel when disturbed renders suCh a
chase very arduous. Dogs well trained to bear may be occasionally
^ Author of (inter alia) a charming and instructive book on sport —
"Tilfjelds," with a map showing the distribution of game. It was trans-
lated into English in 1878, under the title of " Sporting Life on Norwegian
Fjelds," by W. G. Loch.
'^ Fortnightly Review, Feb. 1891 : " An Island Deer-forest,"
Sport : Angling and Shooting. [76]
met with in Norway. In 1889-90 several bears were killed in the
Namsos district by English and German elk-hunters. In the winter
of 1889 a farmer who had laid poison in the carcass of a beast killed
by beaxs, not far from Gudaa, in Stjordal, found, on visiting it the next
morning, three of the marauders, large and small, lying dead, and was
chased to a considerable distance by a fourth, whose share of the
poison had only rendered him ferocious.
Berries (especially bilberries) are the normal food of the bear. His
favourite haunts in summer are in the thickly wooded mountain-valleys
and slopes of the mountains, and particularly in the neighbourhood of
the seeters, or mountain pastmres, where the cattle are grazed. Should
a bear have killed a cow in the neighbourhood, and news of it be
brought within a day or so afterwards, a possible method of getting
a shot is for the sportsman to watch the carcass of the cow from some
place of concealment close by, till the bear returns to gorge himself
upon it a second time, which he seldom fails to do if undisturbed. But
as he generally makes a circuit before approaching his meal, the
chances are greatly in favour of his getting the wind of the ambushed
hunter, and retiring until the coast is clear.
The usual native mode of killing bears is to fix three or four guns,
v/ith the muzzles pointing at different angles, across the carcass of a
cow that has been killed, tying strings at one end to the triggers and
at the other to the cow, so that they explode when the bear returns
and begins to tug at the carcass again, in which case some of the balls
can scarcely fall to kill or severely wound him. Over 100 bears
are killed annually in Norway, and by far the greater number of
these towards the end of the winter. A good bearskin may some-
times be bought at posting-stations for 50 or 60 kr.
Wolves. — There are still a considerable number of these animals
scattered over the vast extent of rocky fjelds which form the backbone
of Scandinavia ; particularly in the northern and central districts. In
the south they are all but exterminated. During the winter they
sometimes descend into the valleys, and approach the habitations of
men. In December 1890 a number of wolves made their appearance
in the neighbourhood of Stjordal, the vale through which the railway
runs from Trondhjem to the Swedish frontier ; as many as a dozen
being seen together at times. Fine wolfskins may be purchased in
Trondhjem, but one very seldom hears of a sportsman getting even a
glimpse of a wolf, as during the summer and autmnn months these
animals manage to conceal themselves among the wildernesses of
splintered crags and boulders on the summit of the fjeld, where they
find convenient lairs in which to rear their young.
Gluttons, — The glutton or wolverine (Gulo horeaUs ; Fjeldfras) is
another animal of which the handsome skin may be occasionally met
with, especially among the Lapps, but which is seldom, if ever, seen
by the sportsman. It inhabits the most rocky and precipitous glens
on the verge of the fjeld, and, being an active climber, is able to retreat
to fastnesses on the face of the cliffs, where it is impossible to follow it.
The elk -hunter who is obhged to leave the meat in the forest all night
(in such districts as Namdalen), will occasionally find that the glutton
has descended in the dark hours and taken his share. This wily
[76] Sport : Angling and Shooting.
animal, although comparatively slow of moment on foot, contrives to
kill the tame reindeer, by lying on a projecting rock or the bough of
a tree, and dropping on to the victim's neck as it passes below.
Lynx {Lo8i or Goupe), — This very sanguinary and sly animal still
manages to hold his own in Norway, despite the considerable pre-
mium offered for his destruction. The decrease in the number of
lynxes of late years appears to have been less than that of any other tribe
of indigenous ferce ; but, like the wolf and the glutton, the lynx con-
trives to keep out of sight of the ordinary sportsman. There are no
animals of their size more bloodthirsty and destructive ; in districts
which they haunt, the game, both far and feather, suffers terribly, and
if they have the chance of attacking sheep they will kill, out of pure
love of slaughter, as many as they possibly can. Their range does not
extend much farther north than N. Trondhjem's prefect., where they are
fairly numerous. The spotted skin of the lynx is very beautiful and
soft, and conmiands a good price ; there are usually a fetir number of
skins on sale in Trondhjem, and one or two miay be sometimes met
with up the country.
Otters, — Otters are found in nearly all the streams of any size in
Norway, and a breed of imcouunon dimensions inhabits the range of
innumerable rocky islets, extending up the coast as far as Finmarken.
These otters live chiefly in the sea, but occasionally visit fresh water.
They must not be confounded with the genuine sea-otter, whose far is so
rare and valuable. Nevertheless, their skins, when properly dressed, are
very handsome, and make excellent collars, cuffs, &c. They can be
bought in Trondhjem, and now and then be picked up at the farm-
houses on the coast or islands. By consulting the farmers, a shot
might be obtained at one of these large otters, but it would probably
entail much watching and patience. A similar breed exists on the
coast of Scotland.
Seals. — The spotted seal (Phoca vituUna) and the grey seal {HaU-
choerus grypus) are found on the Norwegian coast. The latter is rather
locally distributed, but the former exists in great numbers the whole
length of the seaboard. With some trouble, shots may be had from a
boat or the rocks at these animals, but the difl&culty of killing them,
and securing the body, will deter most sportsmen from attempting
the chase; especially as the trophies afforded by the common seal
are only a certain amount of oil and a harsh skin adapted for covering
trunks. It is true that these might be acceptable to a farmer or
fisherman.
Ha/res are fairly plentiful. In winter the hare of the woods and
mountains turns white, and is smaller than the field-hare, which is
naturally more scarce. The majority are identical with the blue
hare of Scotland ; the real English hare is not found in Scandinavia,
neither is the rabbit.
For farther mention of Mammalia, see antef " Zoology."
(6) Feathered Game. — Ptarmigan (La^gopus alpina, or Nor-
wegian Fjeld Hype) are indigenous to the rocky summits of lofty
mountains, above the line of the growth of the mountain-willow and
the dwarf-birch. Only a small portion of this vast field has as yet
been taken up by sport^^}en shooting over dogs, whose bags form an iU"
Spori : Angling and Shooting. [77]
significant aggregate compared with the number of birds snared, or
shot without the aid of dogs, by the natives.
Early in the season ptarmigan afford but little sport, as they are
not free flyers, but sit and croak on the approach of the shooter, or
run over the bare groimd without rising, and, when forced to take
wing, often alight again at a short distance. But the pursuit of
them leads the sportsman into grandly desolate regions, frequently
commanding magnificent views, and swept by the most buoyant and
exhilarating air. Excellent shooting can, however, be obtained among
the ptarmigan when (say in September) the first sprinkling of snow
has fallen on the high fjelds, and the birds become wilder and, to a
certain extent, packed. Then, when disturbed, they sweep round the
slopes of the rocky summits on which they are usually found and
which they seldom quit altogether, and the guns, by separating and
going in different directions, can keep them on the move, and secure
grand wild-shooting and splendid driving-shots. Earlier in the season —
and indeed at all times — a steady setter, spaniel, or hunting retriever
is necessary, as the young or scattered birds will crouch motionless and
invisible among the stones which they so closely resemble until nearly
trod upon. It must be understood that the fjeld-rype is identical
with the ptarmigan of Scotland. Norwegians frequently fancy that
the next bird in our list, the skov-rype, may be also spoken of in
English as ptarmigan, which is of course a mistake.
The SJcov- or Dal-rypCy the wood- or willow-grouse (LagBpua sub-
alpma)y is declared by naturalists to have been originally identical with
the red-grouse of the British Isles, a certain change of plumage and habit
having been effected by climate. In full autumn (August) feathering, the
colour of the two birds is the same — rich red brown in the cock, duller
brown in the hen — on the back, breast, head, and neck ; but the willow-
grouse has the pinion feathers of the wing snow-white with a black shaft,
and the belly and leg feathers are also white. It has been asserted by
savants that if it could be experimentally transferred to the British
Isles it would in time assume the full plumage of the red-grouse,
which, under a similar change to Norway, would become the rype.
But, with all due respect to science, there must be considerable specu-
lation about this opinion. The Norwegian bird might well be called
the bir-ch -grouse, to the exclusion of any other name ; for, wherever in
central or northern Norway, whether on mainland or island, a long
stretch of birchwood is seen clothing the slopes of a hill or the levels
of a valley, be sure that at least some few coveys of ryper may be
found there, unless, indeed, the birds have been exterminated by resi-
dent native sportsmen. In genuine pine-forest, altogether unmixed
with birch, they are seldom seen. In dull or wet weather the ryper
usually prefer the thick covert and the base of the hills, but on bright,
warm days they gradually ascend to the brushwood on the edge of the
open f jeld. Where, too, the f jeld itself is covered with patches of birch,
dwarfed by situation into scrub, and of the real dwarf-birch (Betula
nana), it is, as a rule, a favourite resort for ryper. In such localities
they also fi:equent, especially during the heat of the day, the damp
thickets of dwarf-willow which fill the hollows of the mountain and
clothe the sides of the riUs, and this habit has given to the bird the
[78] Sport : Anglvng and Shooting.
name of willow-grouse, by which it is generally known to English sports-
men and naturalists. The skov-ryper abound in Norway, but they are
scattered over a vast region, and, except in certain fietvonred localities, a
single shooter must expect to make only small or moderate bags — say
from 16 to 26 brace — to be obtained by much hard work. The birds
are very capricious in their choice of a residence, and often shift their
ground with a change of wind ; a hillside may be alive with them at
one time, and at another all but deserted. The finest rype-shooting
in Norway is to be found in the Lofoten islands ; the best of it has
long since been leased by Englishmen. In 1890 two guns bagged over
dogs, in a few weeks, 1900 brace. The spring of that year was probably
one of the finest breeding seasons ever known in Scandinavia. Every
species of game abounded, even in localities not usually productive. A
dog — pointer, or setter, or spaniel — is absolutely necessary for rype-
shooting with anything like steady success. Two or three of the outer
islands below Trondhjem, of which Smolen is the best known, are quite
flat and entirely clothed with heather, with not a tree visible, and
there skov-ryper afiford excellent sport, similar to that of the Scotch
moors. In the south of Norway, however, where they are compara-
tively rare, they must be sought at an elevation of firom 1000 to 2000 ft.
above sea-level. Both the fjeld- and skov-ryper turn pure white in
winter ; the latter may be distinguished by their superior size, rounder
shape, and larger bill. Immense numbers are exported for the English
market.
Capercailzie : Tiur [male] ; Boy [female]. — This magnificent bird, the
king of the grouse tribe, is found all over Scandinavia. Its pecuHar haunt
is the pine-forest, especially that portion of it which is diversified by
grassy glades, hillocks overgrown with berry-bearing shrubs, and oc-
casional alder and willow swamps. The capercailzie are especially fond
of feeding round the latter late in the afternoon. The old cocks, which
sometimes attain a weight of 12 or 14 lbs., are extremely wary, and will
run a long way and at great speed before the dog. The birds of the year
will lie well in favourable ground, and several may be bagged out of a
brood as they rise singly. The old hen, whom it is hoped the sports-
man will spare, usually remains with her adult progeny until late in
the season. Scotch sportsmen despise the capercajlzie as food, but the
Norwegian bird, by feeding on the profusion of berries of various kinds
with which the forests are carpeted, becomes very plump and deHcate
in flavour, and excellent for the table. When, however, the winter
snows have set in, its food is the shoots of the pine, and it firequently
contracts a disagreeable flavour of turpentine- Most of the birds which
are imported into England during the winter have more or less of this
strong, unpleasant flavour, and those who trj'- them at such a time
frequently conceive an unjust prejudice against them. The same re-
marks apply to blackgame and other Norwegian game-birds. Caper-
cailzie are killed in great numbers by the natives by a kind of figure-
of-4 trap, set in the pathways and cattle -tracks, down which the birds
delight to run.
Blackgame : Orhane [male] ; Orhone [female] — are also plentiful all
over Scandinavia. The best localities in which to find them are where
the forest has been partially cleared, and young fir-trees, juniper-bushes,
Sjport : Angling and Shooting. [79]
and wild-raspberry canes are abundant. They are very fond of fre-
quenting the neighbourhood of faraas, and of feeding in the morning
and evening on the oat and barley stubbles. A road is also a great
attraction to them, as it is, indeed, to all of the grouse tribe. In some
parts of Scandinavia, where game is abundant, it is surprising how
many capercailzie, blackgame, hjerper (or hazel-grouse), and even
skov-ryper may be seen during an evening strolling along a quiet forest-
road. When they have attained their full plumage, the young black-
cock generally pack together, and become difficult of approach. Whilst
yet in the brood they will lie like stones, and are easy to kill.
Hjerjpe (Tetrao Bonasia, Tree- or Hazel-grouse ; Fr. GeVmotte ;
Ger. Haselhuhn), — This beautiful Uttle bird, which is scarcely bigger
than a partridge and has white flesh, is nevertheless a true grouse, the
smallest of the tribe. It is abundant aU over northern and central
Scandinavia, but is less common in the south, and nowhere found in
the W. It is pecuhar for its habit of taking to the trees directly it is
flushed. The whole covey scatters among the nearest birch- or pine-
trees, and the birds sit motionless. Unless the spot where they have
perched is accurately marked, they are difficult to distinguish among
the fohage. When again disturbed they fly through the forest with
astonishmg rapidity for a short distance, and settle again. If left in
peace, they will soon betray their whereabouts by a soft whistle. The
sportsman need have no shame in taking his chance when he can get
it, and shooting them on the branches. Being dehcious eating, they
are a most acceptable addition to the bag. During the winter they
are to be seen hanging in considerable numbers in the shops of Enghsh
poulterers. The plumage is deHcately mottled and spotted with grey,
brown, and white.
Partridge. — This familiar bird is plentiful in Sweden, whence it
has strayed into Norway and estabHshed itself, to some extent, in the
prefectures of Smaalenene, Akershus, Hedemarken, and Christian ; but
in exceptionally severe winters nearly the whole stock perishes for
want of food, and several seasons elapse before it is sufficiently re-
cruited by immigration to become again noticeable. A few birds have
been observed as far north as Trondhjem. The British sportsman in
Norway wiU do well to spare psurtridges if, as is very unlikely, he should
happen to meet with them.
Woodcock (jRugde), — Immense numbers of woodcock breed in
Norway, but the sportsman must not on that account expect to make
large bags of them. He may consider himself unusually lucky if, during
a long ramble in the forest at the end of August or beginning of Sei3-
tember, he comes across two or three broods. W^hen tliis does occur,
he may, however, secure the majority, as the old and young birds
generally keep pretty close together. But at that season they are
scarcely worth shooting, as they lack the plumpness and delicacy
which they attain after the cold weather begins, and their peculiar
flavour is often exaggerated even to rankness. Later on, if he be still
in Norway, he may have the good fortune to meet with a flight of
woodcock collected for the annual migration, which usually conunences
with the last N.E. winds in October or the first in November ; but few
English bird- shooters remain so late in Scandinavia. The breeding-
[80] Sport : Angling and Shooting.
range of the woodcock in Norway extends from the forests near
Ohristiansand to those bordering the Yaranger fjord in Finmarken, but
they are certainly much rarer in the north than in the centre and south.
Snipe, — The double or solitary snipe (Scolopax major; Dohhelt
Behhasi/n), an example of which is now and then recorded in Englajid,
is found aJl over Scandinavia, but is comparatively rare in the extreme
north. It is common, however, in the Lofoten and many islands of
the western coast. This delicious bird, although frequently found in
bogs and marshes, is much less paortial to wet ground than its smaller
congeners, and is frequently flushed, like a woodcock, in perfectly dry
woods and at a high elevation. It is also fond of tussocky meadows
overgrown with sedge-grass, and of thickets of scrub and dwarf- willow
on the banks of ditches and watercourses. It is coumion both to the
lowlands and highlands, is met with on marshes high up on the Dovre
f jeld, and as low down as the marshes round Bodo. The southward
migration of this snipe begins as early as August, during which month
it is found (sometimes in great numbers) in the immense tract of flat
bog, morass, and rough meadow, extending beyond Stavanger towards
Ekersund, and known as Jsederen, where in former years 40 or 50
couples have been killed by a single gun in a day. But since the
establishment of the raihoad between the two towns this wild tract
has been invaded by an armv of local shooters, and the wild-fowl,
snipe, and shore-birds with wnich it once abounded have been sadly
reduced in numbers or driven away. It still contains, however, prob-
ably the best snipe-ground in Norway. The double snipe is generally
bursting with fat, and flies but slowly and heavily, dropping again at
no great distance. It varies greatly in size, being sometimes not
much larger than a big common snipe, and sometimes two-thirds as
large as a woodcock.
The common snipe (EnJeelt Behhasin) is also of frequent occurrence
all over Norway, except in the far north, where it is comparatively
rare. But there is little good snipe-shooting to be found in the
country, the forest morasses and bogs, overgrown and matted as they
are with herbage and moss, not being of that character which attracts
the birds in any number. Here and there, however, the shooter may
discover decent sport in swampy tracts bordering lakes or inlets of the
sea, or the mouths of rivers, especially in the south, but such places
require much searching for. A few snipe will be generally found in
the wet natural meadows which are mown by the peasants on the
fjelds. The snipe-shooting in Sweden is vastly superior to that in
Norway. The jack-snipe (/Swiaa BeJchasin) is generally distributed
about the country, but calls for no special notice. The breeding-place
is believed to be almost invariably within the Arctic Circle.
Wild-fowl. — Some disappointment will usually be experienced in
Norway by the lover of wild-fowl shooting who expects a great deal,
despite the enormous number of ducks and geese which are bred all
over the country. The fact is, that during the time when most English
sportsmen are in Norway, the birds are scattered among the innumer-
able lakes, tarns, and rivers, near which they have nested, and are
seldom congregated anywhere in sufficient numbers to afford really
good shooting. It is often supposed that this may be obtained by
Sport : Angling and Shooting. [81]
taking a boat, and rowing or sailing among the countless islets of the
western coast; but whatever be the case very late in the year, during
the late summer or early autumn little sport is to be had in this way.
Sea-fowl of all kinds will indeed be met with : gulls, skuas, terns, guille-
mots, little auks, cormorants, razor-bills, and the like. The latter birds,
or Alca tor da, are destroyed in great numbers in the Christiania fjord
by Norwegian sportsmen in September and October, and are even pur-
sued in small steamers, although worthless, except for their white breast
feathers. To the list may be added a few sea-ducks, including scoters,
shield- drakes, and eiders ; but of genuine wild-fowl very few will be thus
obtained. We may here appropriately mention again that the eider-
duck is strictly preserved within the Tromso SH/t and in many other
localities. British sportsmen must always avoid shooting them. On the
other hand, there is scarcely a mountain tarn that does not possess its
brood or two of some species of wild- duck, which will also be found in the
quieter reaches of every river, and in the adjoining swamps and back-
waters. Opportunities occur on most of the fishing lakes of supplying
the larder with edible wild-fowl. The sportsman who is satisfied with
this kind of sport will find fair occupation for his gun, and obtain
several varieties, among which may be mentioned the mallard, teal,
widgeon, pintail, golden-eye, conunon and velvet scoter, shoveller, and
scaup : all true ducks ; besides mergansers and red- and black-throated
divers, which may be secured as specimens. The loud cry of the great
northern diver {Lorn) will often be heard,' and the bird seen, but his
skin is difl&cult to obtain owing to his great wariness. On the shores
and islands of some of the mountain lakes great numbers of wild-geese
are bred, and during the month of September these birds congregate in
large flocks along the indented coasts of the outer islands on the western
seaboard, such as Smolen and Froien, and among the reefs and inlets
of the Lofoten group. By lying in wait for them at dusk and dawn,
when they fiy to and &o between the sea and the local lakes and tarns,
some few may be obtained. It is difficult to approach them within
shooting distance in an ordinary boat. The gunning-punt is happily
unknown in Norway. The young birds are sometimes massacred when
barely able to fly, before they leave their breeding-places. A consider-
able number of wild-fowl also breed in the swamps of Jsederen (before
mentioned), and assemble at the mouths of the small rivers which run
through that flat region into the open sea. The Norwegian peasant
despises wild-ducks as food — at some farmhouses it is diflicult to get
them cooked — but is generally eager to have theoi shot, to limit their
depredations on his scanty crops.
Plover, (Be, — The tjelds of Finmarken and Lapland are the
breeding-places of countless thousands of golden plover and dotterel
(Cha/radrius plv^viaUa and morinelhua; Heilo and Bundfugl), and of
the ruff {Machetes pugnax ; Bruaha/ne), The whimbrel, curlew (Snuui-
and Stor-spove), the godwit (Langnebbe), greenshank (Glutsneppe),
redshank {Bodbeen Sneppe), and vairous species of sandpiper also
nest in these vast solitudes. Of these birds, the first two are by far
the commonest. In August, when the young birds are fully grown,
the traveller on some of the ^elds will hear in every direction the wail-
ing pipe of hosts of golden plover, and may shoot as many as he likes.
[Norway--Yi, 92.] e
[82] Seasons for Travel.
Although, together with the plump little dotterels, they entail some
trouhle in plucking, they are a welcome addition to the wanderer's
larder. In Septemher they shift their quarters, and, collecting in their
myriads on the fiats of Jsederen and similar localities along the S. coast,
await the winds which favour their further migration. The green
plover or peewit (Vibe) abouhds in parts of Norway, especially in
JsBderen, and a few years since, we are sorry to say, its eggs were beings
exported thence for the English market.
In concluding this sketch of the sport which the sportsman is likely
to meet with in Norway, we may ask him to visit that country in not
too sanguine a frame of mind and with but moderate expectations,
and to be, moreover, prepared, considering the vast extent of land over
which the game is spread, for frequent disappointment and constant
hard work. Let him be patient with the natives, making allowance
for their habitual tardiness and respecting their prejudices, and always
bear in mind the two following regulations, rigorously imposed :
(a) AUena are not allowed to shoot on Crovm and comimi/nal
la/nda — i.e, on ground which has no private owner — without an annual
license J of which the cost is not less than 200 kr. (11 Z. 2«. Sd.), the
maximum tax being 500 kr. A fine ranging between 200 kr. and
1000 kr. is leviable when this regulation is disregarded.
(b) Dogsy nominally for the exclusion of hydrophobia (which
never existed in Norway), cannot be imported except from Sweden
(where stringent quarantine 'regulations are imposed), and domestic
dogs are strictly included in the prohibition. There are not many
shooting dogs to be purchased in Norway, and their quality (except in
the case of hounds for elk and reindeer) is not altogether satisfiActory ;
but a few may be picked up in Christiania and Trondhjem, or pro-
cured from Sweden.
IX. Seasons for Travel.
1. Summer, — Tours in the S. of Norway and from the W. coast
may well be undertaken in June. As a rule, the trees are
budding in Christiania and the neighbourhood early in May, and the
snow is entirely off the ground. But it requires the experience of a
long chilly winter to appreciate fully the delightful fragance of
birch- and pine-trees in May. Nature, so long torpid, is then awakening
in all its youthful beauty, and ere long fields and rocks are covered
with wildflowers and ferns, the peculiar fiora of the North. The
mountain torrents, as well as the diminutive rills, are in ftdl motion ;
butterflies are hovering about; the swallows seeking and storing
materials for their nests, and the forest-birds filling the woods with
sounds of song and call over their mating engagements, which, how-
ever, being quickly over, leave the forests as silent as they had been in
winter. June is often very pleasant, and in some of the southern
districts highly enjoyable, although occasionally, and locally, chilly.
July is the month in which the pleasantest weather throughout Norway
is generally found. In the middle of August it sometimes breaks and
becomes unsettled ; but, nevertheless, August is, on the whole, more
enjoyable in l^orway than in England, except to grouse-shooters.
— ^
Seasons for TraiwL [83]
But then the days begin to draw in rapidly, after having enabled the
traveller to dispense with all artificial light, even when reading his
" Times " at midnight- No inconvenience is, however, experienced
in exploring Norway S. of Trondhjem in September. It can be
avoided by due attention to probable atmospheric changes. As a
matter of fact, there is less inconvenience and discomfort in passing a
winter in Norway than in England or Scotland. As the N. Cape, with its
midnight sun, is one of the principal attractions to the tourist, it is a
matter of course that the latter end of June or the first half of July
should be selected, considering that the upper part of the sun at mid-
night is visible for the last time on August 1.
2. Winter, — Too little attention has been paid to the health<giving
properties of a winter in the S. or W. of Norway. At Christiania, the
maximum cold is one-half of what it is at St. Petersburg in the same
latitude ; while in several places on the W. coast and its fjords a
temperate climate prevails throughout the winter. Norwegians with
delicate lungs are sent, for instance, to the Hardanger fjord, in har-
mony with the modem treatment of diseases of the chest which require,
above all, a dry and equable (though cold) temperature. As in other
parts of the North, Norwegian houses are well adapted to meet the
rigour of a cold season. An equable temperature pervades the dwell-
ing-rooms, fi:om which draughts are excluded by well-made windows,
the " sash " window, so well calculated to produce an opposite effect,
being ahnost unknown. Ventilation is effected by throwing windows
wide open in the depth of wmter. Warmth is permanently retained in
each room, not by open fireplaces, but by small iron cylindrical stoves,
in which a shovelful of coal and coke suffices to generate warmth
su£&cient for an entire night. By an arrangement so simple, coal
(the principal fuel in all Norwegian towns) is not consumed merely in
an attempt to warm the chimney and the atmosphere above it, with
the accompanying result of adding blackness and all-pervading
" smuts " to a fog. The comfort of Norwegian houses in occasional
severe weather and easterly winds secures those who are weak from
the risks they encounter in England and Scotland. It must be con-
fessed, however, that the open fireplace, with its genial glow, blaze,
and embers, will be missed by most true Britons.
In respect even to recreation there is much to attract both the
young and middle-aged man to Norway. At Christiania especially,
the winter months (December to March) may be passed most pleasantly
in skating and snow-shoeing, over and above the ordinary enjoyments,
occupations, and pastimes of life at home. The Norwegians are
strong and excellent skaters, although even their best performers
scarcely attain in figure-cutting the accuracy and finish of the * Cana-
dian and English schools. Bunning on snow-shoes is already attract-
ing more and more attention from travellers, and those who have
attained the art (in two or three weeks) become sometimes disdainful
of the skater. The celebrated snow-shoe race at Christiania (in
February), when leaps of 60 ft. and more are taken, is weU worth
attending. The interior of the country (Telemarken in particular,
within easy access of the capital) is well adapted for such sport.
Tobogganing, or descending snowy slopes on sledges, is a rough, but
e2
[84] Modes of Travelling,
exhilarating amnsement. It is the Norwegian snbstitnte (or rather the
origin) of tiie Bnssian artificial ** ice-hills." January and February
are the best months for these winter pastimes in Norway.
The general attractiveness of the oomitry will, it is hoped, be
established in the pages that follow, whether in summer or winter.
X. Modes of Travelling : Steamship and Bailway Fares,
Land and Water Posting, Yachting, &c.
Travelling in Norway is special and peculiar, differing in many
important respects firom that in any other part of Europe. This is
due to the natural configuration of the country, and to the distribution
and habits of the population.
So many improvements have been made of late years in the
means of locomotion, in the matter of roads, in acconamodation even
at remote posting- stations, and in the character of the food supplied
throughout the country, that no discomfort (or exceedingly little) need
now be apprehended by those who contemplate a tour in Norway.
The telegraph and telephone are so widely extended, and so cheap,
that travellers in the height of the season can avail themselves largely
of either of those means in order to secure accommodation, &o.
Travelling Coupons. — BennetVs Tov/riat Office issues Coupons by
which the traveller can without any extra cost be franked through on
any route he may select, and thereby calculate his exact expenses.
They cover conveyance of every kind, and include guides, boats, and
horses for special excursions to points of interest on a journey. The
" Skyds '* (posting) tickets are more especially convenient, as they are
accepted at every posting-station on the main roads. Much of the
travelling in Norway has to be done by driving, and the repeated
payment of the posting-fare, the trouble of calculating it even from the
tables we give, that of carrying a large supply of small coin, together
with other incidental inconveniences, often cause annoyance even to
an experienced traveller in Norway.
Bennett's Tourist Office also issues Hotel Coupons which are
available at all the principal hotels and stations throughout Norway.
They secure meals and accommodation, and afford preferential advan-
tages to the holders.
Prospectuses relative to Bennett's Travelling Coupons for Norway,
and givmg a series of specimen tours, &c., may be had (post free)
on application to Bennett's Tourist Office, Christiania, Bergen, or
Trondhjem.
Steamers (Dampslcibe). — The Wilson Mail Service to Christiania,
Stavanger, Bergen, and Trondhjem is widely known for its excellence,
and the steam communication between Scotland and the Norwegian
coast, cheap and good as it already is, improves and extends yearly,
under competition with Norwegian liues.' Too much praise cannot
be accorded to the Norwegian coasting service. The steamers are
* See " XII., Access to Norway," for the lines, British and Norwegian,
that convey tourists to and from Norway.
Modes of Travelling. [86]
generally large, powerful, and comfortably fitted. On board some of
the smaller steamers the sleeping accommodation, however, is not
always adeq[uate, and in the height of the season the saloons of most of
the packets are converted at night into sleeping apartments. Before
starting on a long voyage along the coast it is advisable to make
inquiries as to the accommodation offered, and to secure a good berth,
either at the shipping office or immediately on embarkation. Most of
the officers speak English, but the stewards rarely know any other
language than their own, or perhaps German. But, with the aid of
our vocabulary, or that of Norwegian fellow-passengers, there will be
no difficulty in getting anything that maybe required. The meals on
board the national steamers (breakfetst, dinner, and supper) are abundant
and, as a rule, very good. A charge of 5-5| kr. {68. 7d,-68.2d,) per diem^
covers all expenses for food excepting coffee after meals, and ale,
wine, and spirits. Norwegian beer (about 5d. per bottle) is light and
pure, and preferred by many to British ale ; the wines on board
(as throughout Norway) are not dear, and are certainly genuine.
Champagne is generally sweet, but hock, both sparkling and still, good.
Spirits are obtainable on board all the large coasting steamers; whiskey
is, however, to be preferred to cognac, which cannot always be relied
on. The charge for a bottle of whiskey is 4 kr. to 6 kr., and for a
glass about Id. Old Norwegian Aquavit (flavoured with carraway-
seeds) is an excellent and favourite '* dram," generally taken before
meals or while tasting the relishes that are served as a preliminary
course ; but it is not palatable with water.
Fa/res are very moderate on board the Norwegian coasting steamers,
the first-class fare being at the rate of 40 ore (about 5d.) per naut. m.,
with considerable reductions for long distances ; return tickets usually
1| fare, which is also generally charged to husband and wife, while
bond fide family parties are, as a rule, entitled to a " moderation." On
the special fjord and lake steamers the charges are somewhat higher.
Fares will fi'equently be mentioned in the Routes, but Bennett's Time-
Tables should be consulted.
Under the head of ** Steamers " prominent mention must be made
of the so-called Towrist Ya^chts, that bring yearly more and more
travellers to Norway. Their sailings are well advertised, and they are
generally filled so rapidly that it is necessary to secure berths well
in advance. During the "midnight sun" season they are more
numerous, but one or two of the omnibus yachts extend their voyages
to a late date in the autumn. The Norwegian tour, except in the
excellent Wilson yachting steamer, is combined with a visit to Sweden,
and often to the Gulf of Finland and St. Petersburg. One of the
advantages of visiting Norway in a tourist yacht is that the cost (about
501. for a month, exclusive only of wine, &c.) is a fixed amount. Nor-
wegian tourist steamers take passengers from Newcastle, and back
again, in 14 days, after visiting Bergen, Trondhjem, the principal
fjords, &c., for 13/. or 142. a head, and for Idl. if a cabin be shared by
three or four persons. The food (5.50 kr. per diem) on board all the
tourist steamers is excellent, and the attention to passengers so perfect
* Separately, breakfast or supper 1 to 1| kr. ; dinner 2 to 2J kr.
[86] Modes of Travelling,
that a yachting voyage is fully realised, at comparativefy small
expense.
Bailways. — In 1890 the total mileage of the Norwegian railways in
operation was 1562 kil. (971 m.) They are all State lines with tlie
exception of the original Trurds Bailway between Christiania and
EidsYold (68 kil.), which was built partly with British capital.
They are admirably adapted to the requirements of tourists. Very few
cuttmgs hide the surrounding country. The lines commonly run side
by side with the old post-roads, foUowing the courses of the larger
rivers, rising with them towards their sources, and mounting con-
siderable inclines, and in some instances crossing the great fjelds.
Thus very little of the scenery is lost ; some features are even better
displayed than from the post-roads. This is especially the case where
lateral valleys, branching into a main vaUey, are crossed by viaducts,
or where the line is laid along a shelf blasted from a rock rising nearly
perpendicularly above a roaring torrent. Being mostly narrow-gauged
(1*067 metres), with only second- and third-class carriages, they are gene-
rally slow. Ordinary fast trains attain a speed of 22 to 24 m., but mixed
trains only 15 to 20 m. per hour. The stoppages are tedious from their
number. During the tourist season a train is run to Trondhjem (349 m.)
in 17 hours, with both first- and second-class carriages, with sleep-
ing acconmaodation. The railway service to Sweden, in connection
with improvements in the Swedish and Danish railway systems, is
being gradually accelerated. Luggage not taken into the carriage (in
which no bulky bags or bundles are permitted) must be booked, and, if
in excess of about 50 to 70 lbs., must be paid for. All the trains have
smoking and ladies' compartments. The fares and charges are
moderate, and will be mentioned in the several Boutes, together with
the stations at which passengers can obtain refreshment. The food is
simple, but good in character, and very reasonable (not more than
1.50 kr. for dinner or supper). Spirits are not obtainable, but wine and
ale will be found wherever there is a restaurant.
A time-table for the journey is generally suppUed in each carriage.
General time-tables can be purchased at the principal railway-stations,
and happily the publication by Mr. Bennett (as well as by Mr. Beyer,
of Bergen) of steam and railway time-tables in the English language
obviates recourse to the hitherto indispensable " Norges Communica-
tioner."
For circular railway coupons apply to Mr. T. Bennett.
Observation, — A railway in construction from Ohristiansand wiU
open fine tracts of country in the Ssetersdal ; but what tourists awaH
with most impatience is the rail connection of Christiania with Bergen.
This desire will probably be attained within three or four years. A
line is being constructed from Hamar to Sell, in Gudbrandsdal, and
another from Kongsvinger to Floberg, on the Swedish frontier.
Posting. — 1. Overlcmd posti/ng (La/ndskyds^). — The absence of stage-
coaches and ^f diligences, except on two or three routes on which they
* Pron. Jj&nd-shyss.
Modes of Travelling. [87]
will be mentioned, is well compensated by the admirably organised
posting arrangements of Norway, which admit of a maximum pro-
gress of 100 kfl. per day.
Every road upon which wheeled vehicles can run (and Norway has
a greater mileage of good roads in proportion to its population them
any other country) is provided with posting-stations (usually farm-
houses) at from 6 to 15^ Eng. m. apart.
The national carriole was indispensable to the country when its
roads were little better than rough tracks, and before the few old
regular roads were improved by modem engineering skill in regard to
their gradients (now generally 1 in 20). The roads are maintained by
the local landowners under communal supervision, for which purposes
the parishes are divided into Boder (wards). Posts are placed along
the road to indicate the name of the farm (with its registered number
tmd that of its ward) that is bound to keep in order a specified length
of highway. Although in reality no longer absolutely necessary except
on cross-roads in remote districts, and where vehicles have to be trans-
ported across lakes or rivers, the carriole survives and is still associated
in the mind of the tourist with travel in Norway. Its construction is
light and simple, and so well known that we need not stay to describe
it. Carrying only one person, and a postboy (or girl — Jente) on the
box or small trunk behind (with a small bag, fishing-basket, and
rugs in fi*ont), it is a means of locomotion relatively expensive to the
traveller, and certainly unsociable. Moreover, the forced supply of a
horse for each traveller bent on carrioling is a very heavy tax on the
peasant proprietor, whose sturdy little horse could weU draw at the same
regulation pace' (about 7 Eng. m. per hour) two, or even three, travel-
lers in a more capacious, almost equally light vehicle, and for a payment
more remunerative than that which can be charged to a single person.
The Stolkjcerre or "chair-car," which is becoming more and more
general, holds two persons, their luggage, and the driver. When
springless (as they usuaUy are) neither of these vehicles can be called
comfortable, especially on long journeys ; but travellers who wish to
avoid " roughing it " have only to apply to Mr. Bennett, the tourist
agent at Christiania, Bergen, and Trondhjem, for a carriole, a stolk-
jeerre, or a gig, with good springs, soft cushion, leather apron, &c. Mr.
Bennett has sub-agents on all the great posting-routes. He also sup-
plies an open four-wheeled vehicle called a TrilU, which accommodates
four persons (including the driver), but requires two horses.
A landau, or caUche^ a still more convenient carriage, and capable
of holding, on a pinch, six persons (including the driver), is generally
available, either from Mr. Bennett or from independent purveyors of
vehicles. It is an advantage, in the case of large parties, to hire the
more capacious vehicles, the individual proportion of posting expenses
being thereby reduced.
A novel departure in the matter of posting in Norway might with
advantage be made by bringing out a strong but light Enghsh or
American "trap" to suit a pony (14^ hands high), which can be
purchased in Norway for about 15Z., and resold at a small loss on
departure. Nor would it be difficult on similar terms to find a pur-
chaser for the trap when done with.
[88] Modes of Travelling.
The further advantage of hiring or purchasing a carriole or other
vehicle, especially in the case of ladies, is that it saves the trouble of
shifting luggage at each station. The drawbacks are the difficulty and
loss of finally disposing of it, the occasional necessity of abandoning it
at some mountain-pass, and the trouble, delay, and expense of shipping
and unshipping it in steamers and boats. Where a vehicle is hired
for a particular journey, the difficulty of finally disposing of it is
avoided, but the expense will be about four or five times greater than
trusting to a station stolkjeerre or carriole picked up on the road.
Those who are returning to Christiania, and only intend to remain a
month or two ia the country, will do well to hire instead of buying. In
this case the bargain should be for a fixed sum per day or week, the
purveyor to pay for any repairs necessitated by wear and tear : the
party hiring to be liable only for repairs arising from accidental
damage, and to have the option of purchasing at a fixed smn within a
stated period. New harness should be provided for a long journey.
Mr. Bennett's average charges for a vehicle are :
Carriole . . . 16s. 8^. to 22s. Sd. \
Gig .... 33s. 4d. I For a journey not
Trille . . . 445. 6d. T exceeding ten days.
Landau {caliche) . 55s. 7d. }
However attractive may appear the driving of a carriole or other
vehicle drawn by a skyda horse, it should, as a rule, be avoided,
especially by ladies, in order to allow the onus of damage to rest on
the driver supplied by the owner of the vehicle. Accidents are con-
tinually occurring, and some have had a fatal result. Although the
ponies are generally docile and surefooted, they know the difference
between an aboriginal and a foreign holder of the reins. They resent
the impatience of the latter to move on (even when not protested
against by the skydsgut), are apt to turn sharply round comers, to
swerve at a tangent into familiar farmyards, and sometimes (among
other known equine tricks) to shy at unexpected objects. Moreover,
overdriving is often boisterously resented by the man or boy in charge
of the horse, and a penalty attaches to it. In any case a horse must
be driven very gently out of and into a station, walked up a hill, and
allowed a free rein only at the end of a descent. The acquisition of a
whip should be avoided, as its use leads frequently to altercations. A
Norwegian rarely carries or uses a whip, and never tugs at the reins.
The horse is made to quicken its speed by a peculiar kissing sound of
the mouth, and stopped at full speed by vibrating the lips so as to
produce a sound like " Ptrru," as in the island of Skye and throughout
Bussia.
The following strict regulations should be borne in mind :
When the traveller leaves the reins to the post-boy, no responsibility
with regard to the horse rests on him ; but if he drives himself, and the horse
be ill-used or driven beyond its strength, and should the post-boy complain,
the posting-master at the next station (two other men being called in to
confirm his views) is to ascertain the extent of the injury done to the horse ;
Modes of Travelling. [89]
and this the traveller is bound to pay. Until he does so, the posting-master
is authorised to refuse to provide him with horses. This money is to be
deposited with the posting-master for four weeks, so that the traveller can
appeal against his decision and have the case more fully investigated.
At the landing-places of steamers, more especially, the risk of get-
ting a bad horse or a rickety vehicle is great, many of the owners not
being subject to the posting regulations and its responsibilities.^ The
traveller should always personally inspect the wheels of a vehicle, see
that they are greased (daily, if travelling in a hired conveyance), and
that the luggage is properly secured with ropes or with straps (on which
a good eye should be kept on changing vehicles). The rough harness,
which frequently gives way in some part, also requires inspection.
The rule of the road is the reverse of that in Great Britain-^the left
hand being given in Norway, as elsewhere on the Continent. It is
against courtesy to attempt to drive past another vehicle without the
consent of its driver.
Posting regulations for roads? — All the principal roads are por-
tioned out into stages varying from 10 to 25 kil. (6 to 15J Enfi;. m.)
The station (SJcydsstation) is usually a farmhouse, adapted to the
purposes of an ^nri, and the occupier of which, generally a respectable
farmer, and often a landowner, undertakes, in consideration of freedom
from certain taxes and of other privileges, to have in readiness horses
and vehicles to convey a traveller to the next station. The stations
are of two kinds : (a) Fast — i.e. fixed or permanent (on all the main
roads), at which a certain number of horses have to be kept for posting
* In this respect we cannot do better than endorse the advice given in
Mr. Bennett's Handbook for Norway, although it refers to a long journey.
On a shorter one, say from Dalen in Telemarken to Odde in the Hardanger,
a return vehicle can be taken with advantage, if the traveller is not in a
hurry and desires to fish on the way. An arrangement to that effect is
easily made at the ordinary posting-rate. Many of the so-called •• touters "
can produce books issued to them by local Tourist Associations and in which
travellers enter their recommendations or the reverse. " One of the few
unpleasant features in travelling in Norway is the band of unauthorised
private drivers who carry on a competition against the posting-stations by
touting for hire at many of the starting-points on the posting-routes — ^for
instance, at Odnses and Lsardalsoren on the Valders (Fillef jeld) route, and at
Naes and Lillehammer on the Gudbrandsdal (Bomsdal) route. All the
peasants of the district who own a conveyance and a couple of horses
await the arrival of steamers, and vie with one another in securing cus-
tomers. It is recommended to take no notice of these touters, who offer to
drive the whole route through with their own horses. It is cruelty to drive
150 Eng. m. at one stretch with the same animals, especially if, as is often
the case, they have just been driven a similar distance. The distressed
condition of the ponies in such cases considerably mars the pleasure of the
trip. Moreover, as the station-keepers are at the expense of keeping posting-
horses, and have to provide accommodation for the convenience of travel-
lers, it is but fair to support them by using their horses as well as their houses,
even if one can find a return conveyance at a cheaper price than the posting-
fare."
^ The regulations for water-^osimg are given separately.
[90] Modes of Travelling.
purposes ; (b) Tihigelae, or stations the holders of which are bound to
procure horses from the local owners or occupiers of land, each in their
turn. Travellers accurately designate these as " slow," for the horses
have frequently to be brought from a distant field, wood, or farm.
The station-master is entitled to 14 ore for fetching each horse ; a delay
of a few hours is not unusual.
It is therefore only on these stages that a traveller will occasionally
resort to the use of a Forhudy or order for horses, sent a few hours (or
even a day) before the time at which the supply is required, by a letter
or post-card (on mail roads), by special messenger, or by a preceding
traveller on the same road. The practice, once so conunon and neces-
sary, is, however, seldom resorted to. In case of urgent necessity the
traveller can always obtain the assistance of a native traveller or of a
station-master. Printed forms for Forhud are, moreover, purchaseable
in every town.^ Money penalties and detention result from irregu-
larities (when not involuntary) in keeping appointments thus made.
On the other hand, a posting-master or horse-owner who detains a
traveller more than 3 hrs. (except in case of unforeseen hindrance) is
subject to a fine of 2 kr. for every additional hour.
N.B. — The telephone is available between stations on some of the
main routes.
The posting-rates are very moderate, and, averaging only 2id. to
S^d. per m., are not remunerative to those whom the law compels to
supply horses (in reality a tax).
[The Society in Bergen for the prevention of cruelty to animals
requests the attention of travellers to the following rules :
1. To allow 1 J hr. per 11 kil. (7 Eng. m.) when the road is ordinarily
good : more along a hiUy stage.
2. To drive slowly at first starting.
3. To stop a little while to rest the horse in the middle of a long
stage.]
With the assistance of the tariff smd the information here given, the
various charges for horses may be readily ascertained. The peasants
are slow in calculating, but generally honest in their demands. "When
any difference arises as to payment, the next station-master should be
applied to, and his decision acted upon. The fare is usually paid at
the end of a stage, but, when made in advance, the attention of the
Skyds-gut should be called to the fact before starting. Although not
entitled to anything, it is customary to give the post-boy (or girl) a
gratuity {Drikhe-penge) of 25 ore to 1 kr. per stage, according to dis-
tance and the number of horses driven.
Where there are no posting-stations, a special agreement must be
^ For the benefit of those who may be unexpectedly required to make
out a Forhudseddel^ or order, we give the following form :
Paa Skydsstation (name) bestilles en Hest (or to, tre, <fec., Heste) med
Earjol (pi. Karjoler^ giving number) eller StolkjcBrre (pi. Stolkjcerrer) til
(day of week, date, and hour — Formiddagen or Eftermiddagen), Onsker
ogsaa vann Frokost (or Middag) for 1 Person (or 2, &c., Personer).
(Date and Place.) (Signature.)
Modes of Travelling. [91]
made with owners of horses ; and in these cases the price charged is
often high, especially if a mountain-pass has to be traversed. The
ponies on the momitains are very surefooted, and pick their own way
with perfect safety. It is not necessary to provide a pony for a g^de,
who is always a good pedestrian.
(For coupons in payment of posting-charges, beds, and meals, see
head of section.)
Weight of luggage,— In a carriole or Stolkjaerre 32 kilos, (about
70 lbs.) may be carried hy one person ; but two persons in a Stolkjaerre
can only have with them 12 kilos, (about 25 lbs.) In a Trille, or
any light, open four-wheeled vehicle drawn by two horses and seat-
ing three travellers, 75 kilos, (about 165 lbs.) are allowed. Two
persons travelling in a landau (caUche) may have 50 kilos, (about
110 lbs.), and three persons (who must always pay for three horses),
75 kilos.
Although the law thus fixes the weight of luggage, yet, unless the
traveller has imprudently encumbered himself with a very undue
quantity, and attempts to overload the horse or vehicle, no question as
to the exact weight is ever raised.
The Jov/mal (Dagbog), — At every station a book is kept, in which
the traveller enters his name, destination, the number of horses he
uses, and the complaints he may have to make against the posting-
master, post-boy, or others. These books are periodically inspected
by the authorities, the complaints stated in them inquired into, and
the accused parties, if found to have acted improperly, punished.
Should the posting-master refuse to produce the book, he is liable to a
fine of 2 kr. To it are always attached the posting regulations, a
statement of the distances to adjoining stations, and the number of
horses to be kept at the station. At every post-station the Gjcestgiver^
or landlord, is bound to have, and to produce for inspection if required,
a table of rates and charges of the different articles of food and
liquors, as fixed by the authorities ; but the charges are generally so
moderate that few travellers appeal to that document. A biU is rarely,
if ever, given, even if asked for ; the total amount claimed being merely
stated.
We need only say that the usual charges at posting- stations are :
Bed, 80 ore to 1 kr. ; breakfast and supper, each 1 kr. ; and dinner,
1^ to 2 kr. The waitress, or chambermaid (Fige^ Jente), is satisfied
with 25 to 50 ore from each person. Good ale is always obtainable at
25 ore per bottle {half -flask) , and claret or hock at 2 or 3 kr. In
remote places the charges for bed and board are still smaller.
Water-Posting {Baad- or VoMd-Skyds). — This is subject to simi-
lar regulations as the overland posting, and the cost is about the same.
Payment is divided into {a) boat-hire and (b) wage of rowers, each
working a pair of oars.
A ready-reckoner of the water -posting rates is given at p. [84*].
The rates of boat-hire are the same at "fast" and "slow"
stations — ^viz. 2 J, 4, 5, and 7^ ore per kil., severally for four-, six-,
eight-, and ten-oared boats. These include the use of a sail, if wanted,
but on "slow" stages the rates for the same boats, when without
sails, are respectively IJ, 2, 2^, and 4 ore per kil.
[92] Modes of Travelling.
Bowers are entitled to the foUowing payments :
From " fast " stations in towns 9 ore ^ per kil. per man.
From " fast " stations in the country 7^ ore per kil. per man.
From " slow " stations in towns 9 ore per kil. per man.
From " slow" stations in the country 6 ore per kil. per man.
At " slow '* stations it is necessary to pay each rower 7 ore extra
for tilsigelse (ordering the boat), and a farther sum of 7 ore when an
eight- or ten- oared boat is ordered at country ** slow " stations.
The rates are determined, not by the nxmaber of persons conveyed,
but by the class of the boat. If the party be large, the luggage
heavy, or speed desirable, a six- or eight-oared boat should be
engaged. A guide may take the place of a rower, thus saving the
expense of a local oarsman. Two men are generally required even
for a single passenger, although two passengers may be carried in the
same boat, unless the distance be great.
A boat with two rowers (four oars) is called a Firring, and is 12 to
16 ft. long ; with three rowers (six oars) a Sexrvng (15 to 18 ft.) ;
and with four rowers (eight oars) an Ottermg (18 to 20 fb.) Boats
of 20 fb. and more in length are paid for as ten-oared and requiring
five rowers.
Pedestrian Travelling.
It is very usual to meet native gentlemen and ladies exploring
their beautiful country, with perfect security, on foot. In this respect,
our poet Moore may as well have sung of Norway as of Erin, for no
son of Norway would offer harm of any kind to unprotected females.
Parties of ladies (even in couples) are frequently met with, carrying a
small knapsack, a waterproof (rolled up), and an umbrella against sun
or rain ; having, as a matter of course, sent relays of clothing to the
principal points they desire to reach.
A day's march should be limited to 35 kil. A mile can easily be
done in two hours on an ordinary road, but on rough or very hilly roads
three hours are requisite. The novice in travelling on foot will train
his powers on short stages, with more rest than a practised pedestrian
will require. Needless to say, this is the cheapest and, in many
respects, the most charming way of enjoying the lovely grandeur of
the country, when not pressed for time.
An equally cheap and attractive mode of travelling is cycling ^ an
account of which will be found in pocket at end of book.
Mowtttcdneering is undertaken by comparatively so few travellers
that it will suffice if we offer them some little aid and advice in the
Boutes on which "Alpine climbing" can be practised.
Yachting.
The Norwegian fjords offer unrivalled attractions to yachtsmen,
the only occasional discomfort being that of crossing from our own
coast in a vessel of small size. The yacht may, however, be sent
to Christiania, Bergen, or Trondhjem, and followed in a mail steamer.
^ This rate is also occasionally charged in the country.
Hints to Travellers, [93]
The Hardanger fjord and the Sogne fjord and their branches are
favourite yachting localities, and Bergen, perhaps, the best starting-
point. The exploration of those magmficent estuaries, and the grand
valleys which open into all their branches, may occupy two or three
weeks, or an entire summer, according to the thoroughness with which
the trip is done. The means of crossing overland from one fjord to
the other, and all other necessary information, will be found in the
Boutes given in this Handbook.
It is not obligatory on yachts to engage pilots,^ but it is safer to do
so when navigating within the Skerries (Skjcergaa/rd) along the W.
coast, and also when steaming or sailing up the Christiania fjord,
which no yachting party should neglect, either on the way to or from
the W. coast.
The whole of the W. coast up to Hammerfest and the N. Gape may
be explored almost entirely in smooth water, there being very few open
spaces between the islands and rocks that protect the mainland from
the waves of the ocean. Steam yachts are naturally more convenient
for such a voyage. In the case of a sailing yacht, a tug is often
engaged at Bergen, &c., to attend her in the long, sometimes calm, and
often squaUy, fjords.
XI. Hints to Travellers: Hotels and Inns, Clothing,
Eequisites, &c.
Hotels and Inns. — Even ladies contemplating a visit to Norway must
not be alarmed by what they read in old books concerning the physical
hardships of Norwegian travel, very great changes having taken place
and being still in progress. At Christiania, Trondhjem, Bergen, and the
few other considerable towns there are excellent hotels, of which the
proprietors and the servants speak EngHsh. In many country places —
especially at the landing- stations of the most frequented fjords, where
tourists most congregate — are good country inns, not so luxurious as
the larger hotels in towns, but well provided with substantial comforts,
scrupulously clean, and usually with a varied supply of genuine wine
at moderate prices. The possibiHty of procuring good wine so far
north surprises many tourists, but is easily explained. The Norwe-
gians have extensive commercial transactions with the CathoHc coun-
tries of the Mediterranean, supplying them with the salt-fish required
for fast-days, and taking shipments of wine as return freight.
The rural inns of Norway are of a pecuHar and exceptional character,
mainly consequent on the fact that it is a country without villages, and
therefore without anything corresponding to our public-house, to the
French auherge, the German gaathaus, or the Italian oateria. The
towns are so far apart, and the intervening population so scanty, that
country hotels for native requirements are quite out of the question.
Therefore none but " bond fide travellers " demand public entertain-
' Yachtsmen should be careful in engaging a local, unlicensed pilot
(KjcBTtdsmarid), The advice and assistance of one of the numerous British
Vice-Consuls should in such matters be sought.
[94] Hints to Travellers,
ment, and this is provided at the posting- stations, which, as ah*eady
stated, are usually farmhouses on or near the roadside, and bound to
provide not only horses and vehicles, but also food and lodging for
travellers. When Norway was but little known to foreign tourists and
sportsmen, these provisions were simply adapted to supply the wants
of the hardy natives, who were satisfied with fladbrod and amor —
that is, oat-cake and butter — and a straw bed with a sheepskin for
coverhd. At the primitive stations of the little frequented byways
little or no more than these is even now obtainable, but on all the
highways largely visited by tourists great and most praiseworthy
efforts have been made to learn the requirements of foreign visitors.
At most of the stations on the great highways separate buildings
have been erected for the aoconmiodation of tourists, with every pos-
sible effort in the direction of cleanliness, if not luxwy. At the same
time, certain necessary arrangements are often so rude, nauseous, and
public as to shock even a male traveller. Sufficient attention has not
yet been directed to this important point by those who are anxious to
improve the accommodation at hotels and inns in Norway. For the
present, travellers must " make the best of it."
Another defect, of which complaint is still made (although gradu-
ally being remedied), is the shortness of the beds. By removing the
wedge-shaped bolster, the inconvenience may generally be obviated.
Blankets are becoming more common, and are supplied when asked
for, in lieu of the Dyne or down-coverlet, to which most travellers object,
especially in summer.
In regard to food, tinned meats, biscuits (English and Norwegian),
and even white bread are commonly obtainable. Fresh beef and mutton
are rarities in country inns ; trout and salmon are abundant and
excellent, as well as ptarmigan and other game in the shooting season,
and reindeer venison in certain districts, especially in Arctic Norway.
The ham commonly found is excellent, especially when German.
When required to be fried it should be intimated that raw, not boiled,
ham should be so treated. Native bacon is obtainable in towps, but in
country districts American bacon is in general use. Sausages, smoked
salmon, and preserved ddUcatesses are found on every table. Veal is
the most abundant of fresh meat in central and southern Norway.
Poultry and eggs are usually obtainable, except in the far north. Sweet
dishes, pancakes, omelettes, and finiit jellies are usually provided.
Vegetables are generally represented by potatoes. Milk and cream
will be found good and abundant. Butter is plentiful and genuine.
Cheese is served at every meal, Norwegians generally taking nothing
else at breakfast, and particularly Myse-ost, or cheese made of whey
or goat's milk. Oamle-oat (" Old cheese ") is a variety which, for good
reason, wiU usually be found under a glass cover. English and Dutch
cheese is, however, almost always obtainable. Coffee is good through-
out Norway, but those who require tea should bring it with them,
and, at all events, superintend its decoction.
In fact, if travellers have now to complain of anything in the
matters of food at inns it is the excessive use of butter, and the over-
cooking of meat and goAne, They shoidd give hints in these respects,
and, if on a long inland trip, produce a folding gridiron, which they
Hints to Travellers. [96]
should bring with them, and on which they should desire their fish^
steaks, and chops to be cooked. In some places, however, Norwegians
are under the impression that Britishers eat only raw meat and
game.
As already stated, good ale is obtainable at the humblest stations,
and wine at most. The tourist who requires spirits should carry his
own flask and reserve.
Clothing. — It should be borne in mind that even on a day's journey
a considerable variation in the temperature and in the character of the
weather may be encountered; also (and especially by ladies) that
travelling in a carriole, stolkjffirre, or gig, involves constant exposure
to the weather. The clothing must, therefore, be light and warm, and
protected when necessary against rain by waterproof coats or cloaks
with hoods, umbrellas being somewhat unmanageable, although they
may occasionally be found useful also in keeping off the rays of a hot sun.
A couple of square yards of waterproof sheeting or oiled canvas should
be carried, to keep the knees or the rugs and coats dry. Extra wraps
are very essential on board steamers, especially on the N. Gape tour.
An indiarubber cushion is a luxury frequently appreciated, but a rug
or thick plaid will serve the same purpose, while being available as an
extra blanket at night. The male attire should be of stout and strong
tweed, supplemented not only by a macintosh, but also by an ulster or
some other form of overcoat. For ladies the travelling-dress should be
of a strong but light wooUen fabric, and the waterproof cloak, already
insisted upon, large enough to cover the dress entirely. A dust cloak and
a wadded jacket or warm cloak should not be forgotten. Outer garments
that confine the arms should be avoided. Ladies as well as gentlemen
should wear stout boots or shoes. Warm woollen gloves should be
available, and ladies* gloves long enough (or with gauntlets) to protect
the wrists from mosquitoes, which can to a certain extent be warded off
the face and neck by special veils. Such veils can be procured at Mr.
Bennett's toiurist offices. On fishing expeditions in districts where
mosquitoes abound in the middle of summer (and principally in the
N.) a bell-shaped mosquito-net for suspension from the ceiling and
over the bed will be a great comfort. Such netting must be procured
and stitched together at home. Eucalyptus oil is now recommended
as an ointment dreaded by mosquitoes. But as regards their presence
in bedrooms, our experience in countries where the plague is general,
not occasional as in Norway, enables us to recommend the pastilles of
Dr. Zampironi, royal chemist, Venice. One of them, when burnt in
an ordinary-sized room (with closed doors and windows), effectually
disposes of the mosquito.
Seqnisites. — In these days of travel, particularly in a country now
so well known as Norway, it is no longer necessary to instruct an
Englishman or an American in the details of the pursuit to which he
is so generally addicted. His almost only rival in the Norwegian field
is the German, in whom the aboriginal instinct of peregrination is
being strongly resuscitated and largely directed towards Norway. We,
therefore, eliminate from the present edition the long list of ordinary
requisites previously given, and refer the rare novice to the tourist
offices in Norway, at which everything essential is procurable.
[96] Hints to Travellers.
Luggage. — It is even scarcely necessary to say that the impedi-
menta should be limited as much as possible in number and bulk when
an overland journey is in view. Some of the vehicles being, however,
peculiar to the country, it may be useful to recommend that the
dimensions of a box or solid portmanteau, on which a post-boy (some-
times a heavy man) is destined to sit, should not exceed 34 in. in
length by 15 in. in breadth and 12 in. in height. Special boxes for
such a purpose are provided by Mr. Bennett, who also takes charge of,
or forwards by steamer, any luggage that is temporarily dispensed with.
Ciutoiiu. — The examination of luggage on arrival in Norway is
judiciously lenient. Travellers will not find it worth while to bring
with them groceries, which are heavily taxed ; and wines, spirits, and
tobacco (especially cigars) are excellent, and relatively cheap, owing
to the Norwegian Gustcons duties being lower than the British Excise
rates.
Frovisioiif. — The larders to be found at posting-stations, &c., have
already been described. On some routes, and on shooting or fishing
expeditions, a supply of tinned meats, &c., biscuits, Liebig's extract of
meat, tea, sugar, coffee, and whiskey or brandy, shoidd be carried. All
these are purchaseable in Norwegian towns, from which stocks can be
easily replenished by proper arrangement.
Interpreters, Conriers, &c. — The employment of a Tolk (lit. inter-
preter), or guide, is a luxury, not a necessity, when travelling on the
main routes. The country people are now quite accustomed to deal
with tourists, are always civil and honest, and are fast picking up a
smattering of English. Nevertheless, when a party is large, a Tolk is
undoubtedly useful in securing post-horses, engaging rooms, arranging
for meals, and in performing all the other usual duties of a travelling
servant. He should be engaged through the agency of Mr. Bennett,
who thus becomes responsible for his respectability. The usual pay-
ment is 10 kr. per diem, the Tolk paying for his own board and
lodging. The best class of Tolks are students, who are occasionally
found (in Christiania) willing to occupy the summer vacation in travel-
ling with English or American famihes. They must natm'ally be
treated on a footing of equality. Young Norwegian ladies sometimes
undertake the same office in the case of lady-travellers.
The Norwegian Tourist Association should be supported by every
traveller. The yearly subscription is 4 kr. The annual published by
it, and suppHed gratis to its members, contains many interesting con-
tributions (sometimes in English). The income of the Association is
expended in improving access to waterfalls and views, in building
mountain-huts, &c. Its badge, purchaseable for 1.50 kr. at Mr. Ben-
nett's (where subscriptions are also received), secures civihty and a
prior claim to accommodation at huts and other establishments sup-
ported by the Association.
Cost of Travel. — This may be reckoned at an average of 11, per
diem, the gross cost of posting being 20 ore per kH., and that of
board and lodging at stations 4 kr. to 8 kr., exclusive of wine and beer.
In the larger towns the corresponding charge at the best hotels will be
at least 10 kr. Travellers wishing to reduce their expenditure to an
average of 11. (18 kr.) per day must not linger in towns, but stop as
Skeleton Routes and Access to Norway. [97]
long as possible at cheap, but good " stations." Two or three persons
travelling together and dividing the posting gratuities (which should
be moderate) and other extras can reduce the expenses to an average
of lis, a day. Pedestrians and cyclists need not spend more than
10«. a head, and less if much travelling by steamer or railway be
avoided.
Pasiports. — ^These are not required, except sometimes for the identi*
fication of persons claiming poste-reatante letters.
XII. Skeleton Eoutes and Access to Voirway.
I. Skeleton Boutes.
It is practically impossible within the compass of this book to give
a sketch of all the tours that can be made in Norway. Their selection
depends on conditions so various, with regard to disposable time and
resources, points of embarkation, the choice of travel by steamer, rail,
or carriage, &c., that out of a hundred travellers, perhaps only twenty-
five would take exactly the same route. Travellers not experienced
in making up a tour for themselves, with the help of the routes that
we give, supplemented by the newest local information in respect of
the sailing of steamers, the departures of trains, &c., will do well to
apply to one of Bennett's Tourist Agencies,^ the principal business of
which is to draw up skeleton tours in conformity with the conditions
to which we have alluded.
In planning a tour, the traveller will to some extent be influenced
by the following general observations.
The grandest scenery in Norway is connected with the great moun-
tains that run from N. to S. almost throughout the whole length of the
country. The best portions, as well as those most easily attainable,
may be grouped as follows, according to the chief centres or head-
quarters from which they can be explored :
1. Chriatiama and its fjord, the Tyri fjord, Bingerike, the Bands-
fjord, Telemarken and the Hardanger ; the routes over the FiUe and
Dovre fjelds, the rly. to Trondhjem, the grand Jotunheim region, Ac.
2. Stavcmger and the beautiful route now open to Odde (Har-
danger).
8. Bergen, the starting-point for the most charming tours in
Norway, to the N., S., and E. The Hardanger fjord on the S. and the
Sogne tjord on the N. are the principal attractions from this point.
4. Molde, Beautiful in itself, this is the basis (or the terminus) of
a drive through the magnificent Bomsdal and Gudbrandsdal valleys,
as well as a point of departure for an overland journey to Trondhjem
vici the DovreQeld. The scenery is more especially beautiful between
Molde and the Hardanger tjord.
6. Trondhjem, reached by sea, or by rail from Christiania, through
the grand valleys of the Glommen and the Gula. It is also the nearest
> At Chcistiania, Bergen, Trondhjem, or Stavanger. No fees charged.
Tourist agencies have also been established at Christiania and Bergen by
Mf. Beyer
[Norway— vi. 92.] /
[98] Skeleton Routes and Access to Norway.
starting-point for a peep at the midnight sun, and for the routes
described in our seotion for N. Norway.
Sportsmen will find guidance in our Notes on Angling and Shoot-
mg, whHe cyclists will for the first time be sappUed in this edition
with the special information they require.
The pedestrian or hardy tourist that can climb mountains and
traverse mere bridle-paths, can extend and modify his routes in many
ways.
Beminding our readers once more of the necessity of consulting
local time-tables (now published in English by Bennett's Tourist
OfQce), we subjoin a few
Specimens of Skeleton Boutes.
1. From Christiama.
A. Qrand Tour of Two or TtDO-and-a-half Months — Days.
London or Hull to Ghristiania 2 — 3
Ghristiania 1| — 2
Gbristiania to Trondhjem, vid Mjdsen and Dovre f jeld . — 6
Ghristiania to Trondhjem, by raU 1 —
Trondhjem and the Lerfos, &c 1 — 2
Trondhjem to Vadso, vid N. Gape, and back . . .16 — 18
Trondhjem to Molde, vid the Orkedal and Surendal . — 4
Trondhjem to Molde, by steamer 1 —
Molde to NaBS and the Bomsdal, and back . . .8 — 3
NsBS to Aalesund, vid Vestnses and Sobolt . . .0 — 2
Nbbs to Aalesund, by steamer 1 —
Aalesund or Soholt to Merok (Geiranger fjord) . . 1 — 1
Merok to Faleide (Nord fjord), vid Hellesylt . . 1 — 2
Faleide to Vadheim (Sogne fjord), vid Utvik, Sande, Ac. 1^ — 3
Vadheim up Sogne fjord and Naero fjord to Gudvangen 1 — 2
Gudvangen to Vossevangen OJ — 1
Vossevangen to Bergen, by rail OJ — OJ
Bergen 2 — 3
Bergen to and up Hardanger fjord to Odde . . .1 — 2
Odde to Boldal and over the Haukeli to Haukeli-saeter . 1^ — 2
Haukeli-saeter to Dalen or Trisset, Telemarken . . 2 — 2
TrissBt to XJlefos, vid Bandak lake . . . .1 — 1
Ulefos to Eongsberg, vid Hitterdal, the Tinsjd, Bjukan-
fos, &o 3 — 4
Kongsberg to Ghristiania, by rail OJ — 0|
Kongsberg to Honefos, by rail, with excursions on Lakes
Kroderen and Spirillen, and the Bandsf jord . . — 4
Bandsfjord to Ghristiania, by rail . . . .0 — 1
Ghristiania to Hull or London 2 — 3
45 —72
Extra stoppages, &c 7 — 7
52 —79
B. Tour of Six or Seven Weeks —
London or Hull to Ghristiania 2 — 3
Ghristiania . . « .1 — 1
Ghristiania to Skien 0| — 1
Skeleton Routes and Access to Norway. [99]
Days.
Skien to Hitterdal and Bjukanfos, and back to Ulefos . 3 — 2
Ulefos to Trisaet or Dalen 1 — 1
Thence over Haukeli to Odde 3 — 4
Odde and Hardanger fjord 2 — 4
Thence to Bergen 1 — 1
Bergen 2 — 2
Bergen to Vossevangen and Gudvangen . . .1 — 2
Gudvangen to LsBrdalsoren and Va^eim (Sogne fjord) 1 — 2
Vadheim to Utvik and Faleide 3 — 3
Thence to Hellesylt and Merok (Geiranger fjord) . . 1 — 2
Thence to Molde, vid Soholt, Ac 1^ — 2
Molde 1 — 1
MoldetoNflBS 0^— 1
Thence up Bomsdal and over Dovre f jeld to Trondhjem 5 — 6
Trondhjem to N. Cape and back 8 — 8
Trondhjem 1 — 1
Trondhjem to Ohristiania . . . * . . .1 — 1
Christiania to Hull or London 2 — 8
414—61
C. Tour of Fowr or Five Weeks in 8. and W, Norway--
London or Hull to Christiania 2 — 3
Christiania 1 — 1
Christiania to Odde (Hardanger fjord), md Telemarken 5 — 7
Odde to Bergen 1 — 1
Bergen to Vossevangen, by rail 0\ — 0|
Vossevangen to Gudvangen 1 — 1
Gudvangen to Vadheim (Sogne fjord) .... IJ — 2
Vadheim to Utvik (Nord fjord) ..... il— 3
Utvik and Faleide to Merok (Geiranger fjord) . . h — 2
Merok to Molde, vid Sdholt, &q l|— 2
Molde 1 — 1
Molde to Nffis 0\ — 1
Nffis, up Bomsdal and Gudbrandsdal, to Chris-
tiania . . . 5 — 6
Christiania to Hull or London 2 — 3
26 — 33J
Extra stoppages, cfec. . ... 4 — 4
30 —37^
D. Tow of Three to Fowr-and-a-half Weeks—-
London or Hull to Christiania 2 — 3
Christiania 1 — 1
Christiania to Honefos, by rail or carriage . . . 0^ — 1
Honefos to Lserdalsoren and Gudvangen, over the Fille
fjeld 5 — 6
Gudvangen to Eide, Vik, Odde, (fee, and Bergen * . 4 — 6
Bergen 1 — 1
Bergen to Molde, by sea, visiting Sogne fjord . 1^ — li
Molde 1 — 1
Molde to Trondhjem, by sea 1 —
Or, Molde to Christiania, vid Bomsdal, &c. . . .0 — 7
[100] Skeleton Routes a/nd Access to Norway.
Days.
Trondhjem 1 — 1
Trondhjem to Ghristiania, by rail 1 — O
Gliristiania 1 — 1
Christiania to London or Hull 2 — 3
22 —32 1
(No allowance for extra stoppages* <&c.)
E. TowofabotU Three Weeks—
London or Hull to Christiania .... 2 — 3
Christiania 1 — 1
Christiania to Molde, vid Gudbrandsdal and Bomsdal . 6 — 7
Molde .. . 1 — 1
Molde to Bergen, vid Hellesylt and Vadheim . . .6 — 7
Bergen and Vossevangen 2 — 3
Bergen to Hull 2 — 2
20 —24
Extra stoppages, tfec 3 — 1
23 —25
F. Another Tour of Three Weeks —
London or Hull to Christiania 2 — 3
Christiania . .•.. .-. . .1 — 1
Christiania to Hdnefos, KrMeren 1^— 2
Eroderen to LsBrdalsdren, vid Hallingdal . . .3—4
Laerdalsoren to Vossevangen, vid Gudvangen . . IJ — 2
Vossevangen to Bergen, vid Hardanger fjord . . l| — 3
Bergen . 2 — 3
Bergen to Hull . • 2 — 2
14i— 20
Extra stoppages, <fcc 6| — 1
21 —21
G. Tour of about Tvx> Weeks—
London or Hull to Christiania 2 — 3
Christiania 1 — 1
Christiania to Odde (Hardanger fjord), vid Haukeli . 5—6
Odde to Bergen, vid EMde 1 — 2
Bergen 1 — 1
Bergen to Christiansand and England, by sea (direct to
England, about two days) 4 — 5
14 —18
Extra stoppages, Ac 1 —
15 —18
H, An Eleven Days* Trip-
London or Hull to Christiania 2 — 3
Bail to Eidsvold, steamer on Mjosen, and return . . 3-^2
Excursion to Drammen, Eongsberg, Bjukanfos, &c. . 4 — 3
Return to Hull or London . ... . . 2 — 8
11 —11
Skeleton Routes cmd Access to Norway. [1^1]
I. Trip of One Week— Days.
London or Hull to CJhriBtiania 2 — 3
Christiama and environs 1 — 1
Excursion to Sundvolden . . . . • .1^—2
Ghristiania to Hull or London ..... 2 — 3
If the steamer on the Tinsjo is not available in time (which can
be ascertained at Ghristiania), the excursion may be changed for one
to Honefos and the Bingerike, by taJdng the Bandsl9<>'<^ ^® from
Drunmen instead of the Kongsberg rly.
2. From the West Coast of Norway,
A. Grand Towr of Two or Two-and-a-half Months —
Instead of starting from Ghristiania, the traveller would land at
Trondhjem, proceed to the N. Gape and Yadso, and return to Trondhjem
or Molde, whence the tour would be as in the grand tour from Ghristi-
ania, but in a reverse order. The routes taken from Trondhjem sotith-
wards can in both cases be varied in several directions.
B. Tour of Five to Seven Weeks —
. Landing at Bergen, it is assumed that the traveller's point of re-
embarkation for England will be Ghristiania.
Days.
To Bergen from Hull or Newcastle . . . .2 — 2^
Bergen 1 — 2
Bergen to L8Brdalsoren,vi(tVossevangen and Gudvangen 2 — 2
Lffirdalsoren to Vadheim (Sognefjord) . . . .1 — 1^
Vadheim to Molde (as in B, from Ghristiania) . . 6 — 8
Molde 1 — 2
Up Bomsdal and across Dovre to Trondhjem . 6 — 8
Trondhjem and N. Cape and back . . . .8 — 8
Trondhjem . 1 — 2
Trondhjem to Ghristiania 1 — 1^
Ghristiania to Drammen, Honefos and Bandsf jord, and
back . 2 — 4
Ghristiania and environs 2 — 3
Ghristiania to Hull or London ..... 2 — 3
85 — 47i
Extra stoppages, &o 3 — 3
38 —go t
C. Tour of Fou/r to Five Weeks—
Hull or Newcastle to Stavanger
Stavanger
Stavanger to Bdldal and Odde, in Hardanger
Odde
Odde to Bergen • . •
Bergen to LsBrdalsoren, as in preceding Bonte
Lasrdalsoren to Molde, md Vadheim ....
Molde .
— 4
— 2
— 1
-2J
— 8
— 2
Molde to Ghristiania, vid Bomsdal and Gudbrandsdal . 6 — 7
Ghristiania 2 — 2
GhriBtiania to HuU or London 2 -- 3
a7i— 34
[102] Skeleton Sautes <md Adcess to N&rway.
D. Tour of Fourteen Days to Bergeny Trondhjem, and Qrandest FJordsf
from Newcastle, by Norwegian Tourist Steamers,
See Itineraries published (in English) each tourist season by the Ber-
genske and Kordenijeldske Steamship Companies, and largely advertised.
The fiires, sailings, and other arrangements of tourist yachting
steamers are so variable that reference mnst pecessarily here be made
to notices in Bradshaw, and time-tables published in Norway each
season.
II. Access to Nobwat.
This is now as easy as to other parts of the Continent, the qnickest
and cheapest route being by the laj-ge and commodious strs. proceed-
ing direct from various ports in England, across the North Sea, to the
chief ports in Norway ; out those who dislike the water may travel by
rail, hmiting sea-passages to the straits between Dover and CaJaiB
(21 m., 1^ hr.) ; Nyborg and Korsor (18 mu, 1^ hr.) ; and between Hel-
singor and HeLsingborg (20 min.) But unless the traveller be desirous
of stojpping to visit the countries traversed, the overland routes are more
£atigumg and expensive and involve several trans-shipments.
Subject to subsequent modifications, extensions, &c. (for which con-
sult Bradshaw and Bennett's time-tables), Norway can be reached by
one of the following routes :
A. South Nobwat.
1. Sea-Boutes*
[Ohs,^ The following list cannot remain exhaustive until another edition
of this Handbook is issaed, and travellers must therefore understand that
reference to advertisements and time-tables becomes more essential year by
year.]
(1) Lines of Boyal Mail Strs. maintained by T. Wilson, Sons & Co.
from London, HuU, and Grimsby. Apply to them for the sailings of
their passenger and yachting steamers published each season. Pas-
sages must be booked well in advance.
(a) London to ChristianBand (511 n.m., about 46 hrs.) and Chris-
tiania (656 n.m., about 60 hrs.) From Millwall Docks every Friday
morning^ for Christiania, but only on alternate Fridays for Christian-
sand (returning from Christiania on Thursdays). W. E. Bott & Co.,
1 East India Avenue, Leadenhall Street, are the London agents.
Fares : To Christiansand or Christiania — Single, 1st cl., 42. ; return,^ 62.
* If the hour of departure be early, passengers from London or Hull may
embark on the previous evening.
' Betum tickets for Christiansand or Christiania are available for return
by the Wilson Line strs. from Stavanger or Bergen, or vice versd, A ticket
is issued at SI. 10s, from Hull to Trondhjem (not available from Trondhjem,
Christiansund, or Aalesund) to return from Bergen, Stavanger, Christiania,
Christiansand, or Gothenburg to Hull, or from Christiania or Christiansand
to London, including victg.
Shehtan Routes cmd Access to Norway. [108]
Yiotg., 6<. 6(2. per day. Children under 12 yrs. half-price; infants
free.
(6) Hull to ChristUnsand (410 n.m., 82 hrs.) and Christiania (568
n.m., 48 hrs.) every Friday evening, returning from Christiania
(caUing at Christiansand) every Friday afternoon. Fa/re (to either
port) : 4Z. ; return, 6Z. Victg. 6«. M. per day.
(o) Hull to Gothenburg (510 n.m., about 86 hrs.) Thence by rail or
str. to Christiaaia. Every Saturday after arrival of the mail-train from
London, due 4.82 a.h. Fa/res to Oothenhu/rg : Single, Ist cL, 8Z. 8«.;
return, hi, 59. Victg., 6«. ^d, per day. Betum tickets to Gothenburg
are issued at 62. (exclusive of victuals), available for return from
Christiania. Betum tickets, Hull to Gothenburg, can be used also for
return to London by the Thule Steamship Line. A similar advantage
is offered in the case of the weekly (Tuesday) Wilson str. from Grimsby
to Gothenburg, by which the feures are the same as from Hull.
(d) Hull to Copenbagen (621 n.m., about 66 hrs.) Thence by rail or
str. to Christiania. Weekly, leaving Copenhagen for Hull every Thurs-
day. Fares : 1st cl., 82. 8«. ; return, 62. 6«.
(2) Other Steamship Lines.
(a) ITewcastle to Christiania (calling at ArendaJ) (722 n.m., about 66
hrs.) by the Norwegian Ostlandske Lloyds Co.'s strs., every Friday
afternoon, arriving at Arendal on Sunday and at Christiania on
Monday morning. Betum from Christiania every Wednesdav, stop-
ping at Laurvik to take in cargo, leaving again Friday night afber
arrival of trains from Christiania and Skien. Another caJl is made at
Arendal, which is left on Saturday noon, the str. reaching Newcastle
on Monday morning. Fa/rea; Single, 1st cl., 2Z. 10s,; return, 4Z.
Single, 2nd cl., 12. 10s, ; return, 22. 10s. Yictg., 6«. Id, and ds, id,
per diem. Bates same to Laurvik or Christiania.
(h) Leith to Christiansand (whence daily strs. in 21 hrs. to Chris-
tiania: 410 n.m., about 86 hrs.), by the Leith, Hull, and Hamburg
Steam Packet Co.'s strs. every Thursday afternoon, arriving at Chris-
tiansand Saturday morning (and proceeding thence to Copenhagen).
Calls at Christiansand for Leith every Friday evening, arriving Sunday
noon. Saloon single fare between Leith and Christiansand, 82. Qs,;
return, 61,, with victg.
(c) Grangemouth to Christiania, by Norwegian strs. " Norway ** and
" Scotland " (fast, and luxuriously fitted). Every Wednesday, calling at
Egersund, Christiansand, and Arendal. Fa^e : 1st cl., 22. 10s, ; re-
turn, 42. Yictg., 58. 6d, per day. Average passage from land to land,
about 28 hrs. Agents : I. T. Salveson & Co., Grangemouth.
(d) Antwerp to Christiania (8^ days) by the excellent Norwegian
Ostlandske Lloyds strs. every Thursday, calling one week at Christian-
sand and Arendal, the other week at Arendal only.. Betum from
Christiania alternately on Tuesday and Thursday. 1st cl. single,
22. 10«. ; return, 42, Yictg., 5s. Id, per day.
[104] Skeleton Routes and Access to Norway.
(e) Amiterdain to Christiaiiia (60 hrs.) Weekly service every Satur-
day. To Ghristiania via Gothenburg; from Ghristiania vt^ Frederikstad
(4^ hrs. rail from Ghristiania), 84 hrs. Fare$ : 1st cL, 21, Victuals
4«. 6^. per day.
(^ Botterdam to ChristlEiiia vid Ghristiansand {65 hrs.) Fortnightly
service. 1st cl. fieure : 21. single.
(g) Havre to Chriftiaiiia, calling at Arendal (about 3i days), by
Norwegian 8ondenf jeldske Line, every alternate Thursday afternoon,
reaching Ghristiania on Monday. Departure from Ghristiania every
other Thursday at 1 p.m., calling at Ghristiansand Friday morning,
and arriving at Havre Monday morning. 1st cl. single, 4Z, 9a,;
return, 71. 15«. Id, 2nd cl. single, &L 2«. Sd,; return, 5L 69. 8^.
Including victuals.
(h) Bordeaux to Ghristiania (about 7 days). Fortnightly sailings by
Norwegian strs. 1st cl. single, SI, lis. lOd. ; return, 61, 28, Sd,
2nd cl. single, 11, lbs. Id. ; return, 21. Via, lOd. Victg. is. 6d, and
28. Sd, per day.
(t) Hamburg to Christiaiiia (about 2^ days), calling at Ghristiansand,
Arendal, and Laurvik, by the well-appointed Sondenf jeldske Line,
every Saturday night, arriving at Ghristiania Monday morning. De-
parture from Ghristiania every Saturday afternoon, arriving at Ham-
burg Monday afternoon. 1st cl. single, 11, 13«. 4^.; return, 21. 15«. 7d,
2nd cl. single, 11. 4«. 6d. ; return, 11. 18fi. lid. Victuals, 48. 6d, per
day.
(7) Hamburg to ChristianBaiid (about 2 days), by the £eigenske-Nor-
denfleldske Line (exceUent strs.), every Friday. Strs. proceed along
west coast to Yadso. 1st cl. single, 11. 168, 6d, ; return, 21, 14«. 9d.
Victg. about 6a. 2d, per day.
{h) Stettin to Copenhagen and Christiaiiia (about 2 days), by str.
" M. G. Melchior *' (high-class), leaving every Tuesday, 2 p.m., cidKngat
Gopenhagen Wednesday, and reaching Ghristiania Thursday about noon.
Ketum from Ghristiania every Friday morning, calling at Gopenhagen
Saturday, and arriving at Stettin early on Sunday. 1st cl, single,
21, Ss. lid, ; return, SI, 16a. Ad. 2nd cl. single, 11, 10a. 5d, ; return,
21, l8. lOd,
(l) Copenhagen to Christiania vid Frederikshavn (about 1^ day), by
str. " Baldur," every Sunday evening, calling early next afternoon at
Frederikshavn, and reaching Ghristiania before noon on Tuesday, after
touching at Laurvik, Vallo, Horten, and Moss. Return every Thurs-
day, arriving Gopenhagen early on Saturday. 1st cl. single, 11. 11a. 2d. ;
return, 21, 6a. %d, 2nd cl. single, 11, ; return, 1?. 10a.
(m) Copenhagen to Christiania vid Gothenburg (about 1 day), by fine
paddle-str. " Ghristiania," every Monday and Friday morning, calling
at Gothenburg and Horten. Return from Ghristiania every Tuesday
and Saturday afternoon, reaching Gopenhagen next day. Same faxes
as per " Baldur."
(n) Frederikshavn (Denmark) to Christiania (about 11 hrs.), every
Tuesday, Thursday, and Satnrday.noon, by Ghristiania coasting strs.
SJceleton Routes and Access to Norway. [105]
Betum every Sunday, Tuesday, and Friday before noon. Fare : 1st oL,
138. ^d.
[Obs. — For further information respecting steamers between Germany,
Denmark, and Norway, and their correspondence with railways, consult
time-tables.]
(o) Stockholm to Christiania. A str. runs weekly between the two
cities, but as the voyage (broken at Malmo, Helsingborg, and Gothen-
burg) occupies 4 days and costs 2Z. 4«. 6t?., travellers will prefer taking
rail.
(p) ITew Tork to Christiania (14 days), by Thingvalla Line, fort-
nightly. 1st cl. fare, from 111, 2s. Bd, to 13L lis, lOd,
For Tourist Yacht routes and sailings see ** B. Western Norway by
Steamer," and annual advertisements.
2. By Bailway and Steamer,
(a) London to ChrlBtiania, in 57| hrs>, vid Queensborough, Flush-
ing, Hamburg, and Kiel, where a str. crosses in 4 to 5 hrs. (day and
night service) to Korsor. Thence in 2 hrs. (night service) or 2^ hrs.
(day service) to Copenhagen, where rail is taken to Helsingor (1 hr.
22 m.) A str. then carries travellers over to Helsingborg (Sweden) in
20 m., in time for a train which reaches Gothenburg in the evening
and Christiania early next morning. Through rates to Christia/rda :
1st cl. single, 8Z. 168, Id, ; return, IBl, ds, 6d, 2nd cl. single, 6Z. lAs, Ad, ;
return, 92. 188, lid,
N.£. — The through faxe vid Calais or Ostend is 111, 1st cl. Those
who require a short sea^passage should, when bound for Gothenburg or
Christiania, take the Dover-Calais and Eamburg-rrederikBhavn route.
The journey can in each case be broken at several places. The de-
velopment of railway comimunication through Denmark and Sweden
requires reference to future time-tables and advertisements.
(h) London to Christiania vid Hamburg and Frederikshavn and
Gothenburg. A Danish company runs a str. three times a week
between Frederikshavn (Denmark) and Gothenburg in connection with
the trains between Hamburg and Frederikshavn, and with the trains
between Gothenburg and Christiania, Gothenburg and Stockholm, &c.
Leaving Hamburg at 6.60 p.m. the traveller reaches Frederikshavn
next day at 12.20 p.m. He is taken thence by str. to Gothenburg in 5
hrs. (fare 8«. 11^.) The rly. then takes him to Christiania in 10 hrs.
Through rates Hamibwrg-Christiarda : 1st cl. rly, and str., 31, lbs. ^d. ;
2nd cl. rly. and 1st cl. str., 31. Os. 6d.
(c) Harwich-Botterdam-Cliristiania. Night and day service in 13 hrs.
to Hamburg, whence the route is the same as in (6).
{d) London to Christiania vid Denmark and Stockholm, in 58 J hrs.
to Stockholm, whence rail to Christiania in 15^ hrs. (in summer).
(e) London or Hull to Christiania vid Gothenburg. In 47 hrs., over-
land to Gothenburg. Thence by rail in 11 hrs., or by str. in 13 hrs., to
Christiania.
[Norwa/y — vi. 92.] g
[106] Skeleton Routes and Access to Norway.
B. Western Norway.
By Steamer,
(a) Great Britain or Continent to ChristianBand. Vide *' A. South
Norway : 1. Sea-Boutes," and the Ohs. respecting changes.
(b) Hull to Stavanger and Bergen, by Wilson Line, every Tuesday
afternoon, in about 38 hrs., after calling at Stavanger (27 to 30 hrs.),
with time, usually, to see that town. Betum from Bergen {via
Stavanger) every Saturday noon. Fares to Stavanger or Bergen :
1st cl. single, Al,; return, 61. 2nd cl. single, BL; return, 41, lOs.
Victuals included.
[Obs. — First-class return tickets for Christiansand or Ghristiania are
available to return by the Wilson Line strs. from Stavanger or Bergen with-
out extra payment. Second-class return tickets on payment of IO5. extra.
Beturn tickets for Stavanger or Bergen are available to return by the
Wilson Line strs. from Cbristiania or Christiansand on payment of the
victg. on board latter str. For return tickets, see p. [102].
In addition to the Tuesday service to Bergen, the Trondhjem strs. call
there (until the middle of August). Only the Tuesday strs. call at Stavanger.
(c) Hull to Trondbjem vid Aalesnnd, Molde, or Christiansund (in 65
to 70 hrs.), by Wilson Line strs., every Thursday afternoon during
tourist season and afterwards every alternate Thursday. Betum from
Trondhjem by the same route on Thursdays. Fares for entire voyage
or part of it : 1st cl. single, 6L lOs, ; return, 91, 15s, 2nd cl. single,
4:1, 4«. ; return, 61, 6s. Victuals included.
(d) Hull to Fjords of W. ITorway. — ^In July and August Messrs.
Wilson despatch one of their finest passenger strs. to the N. Cape,
touching at Stavanger, Bergen, Molde, &c., the Lofoten islands, £c.,
and ascending the three principal fjords. These yachting cruises (of
which there are two) occupy about 21 days, the greater part of the
voyage being through magnificent scenery in smooth water, inside the
coast belt of rocks and islands (Skerries) ; the actual sea-passage being
only across the N. Sea (about 33 hrs.) Betum fa/res from Hull : Each
berth in double or three -berth cabin amidships, 35 guineas ; each
berth aft (number limited), 80 guineas. Victg. (but not wine, &c.)
included.
N.B. — ^As in the case of the regular passenger strs. to Norway,
timely appUcaHon must be made to Messrs. Wilson for berths.
(e) Newcastle to Bergen vid Haugesund and Stavanger, three times
weekly, by subsidised Norwegian mail strs. and by the excellent
Bergenske-Nordenfjeldske mail strs., despatched every Tuesday even-
ing. In the tourist season the passage by the Norwegian mail strs.
averages 38-40 hrs. Fa/res to Bergen : 1st cl. single, 41, ; return, 61.
Intermediate, Bl, ; return, 4Z. 10«. Victuals included.
(/) Leith and Aberdeen to Fjords of W. Norway. The N. of Scot-
land and Orkney and Shetland Steam Navigation Co. employs tWo of
Skeleton Routes and Access to Norway. [107]
its finest strs. on this ronte between the latter part of May and the end
of August. The sailingB (twelve in all) are fortnightly, each voyage
occupying 12 days (except N. Cape trip, which takes 3 weeks), almost
entirely in smoodi water. The sea-passage from Aberdeen to the Nor-
wegian coast (Skudenses) is effected in about 20 hrs. Fa/res : Cabin on
upper deck (one person), 181,; cabin for two persons, each 14Z. 14*., or
151, 15«. ; in ladies* cabin and in cabins holding more than two, each
121, 128, or 151, 158, Yictg. included.
N.B. — In the latter part of August one of this company's strs.
touches at Christiania on the way to Copenhagen, Stockholm, and
St. Petersburg.
(g) London to Fjords of W. ITorway. Ocean steam-yacht excursion
trips are made several times during the season by strs. named the
"Victoria," the " Chimborazo,*' the "Garonne," and the "Ceylon."
The trip is generally combined with a visit to Sweden, Denmark,
St. Petersburg, &c., and usually lasts one month. As the arrange-
ments are annually varied, information must be obtained from the
managers, who advertise frequently. Travellers are taken by these
splendidly appointed ships to view the midnight sun and the other
glories of Norwegian scenery, including calls at Christiania, Bergen,
Trondhjem, &c.
(h) Hamburg to Chrifltiansand, Stavanger, Bergen, and Trondhjem
(calling at principal intermediate ports, ascending fjords, and visiting
the Lofoten islands), twice a week by the Bergenake-Nordenfjeldske
Line. Leaving on Friday, the str. reaches Christiansand on Sunday,
Stavanger and Bergen on Monday, Trondhjem on Saturday.
Starting hence on the next Tuesday, it gets to Tromso on Saturday,
Hammerfest on Sunday, and Vadso on Tuesday. Saloon fa/res : To
Christiansand, IZ. 168. 6d. ; Stavanger, 21, 6a. lOd, ; Bergen, 2/. 15^. 2d, ;
Trondhjem, 4Z. 10a. Sd, ; Tromso, 11. Os, 2d, ; Vadso, 81. 16a. lid,
Eetum tickets (without leave to break voyage), half-fare additional.
Victg. by agreement with steward, about 6a. 2d, per diem.
(t) For Stettin-Copenhagen, Stavanger, Bergen, Trondhjem, &c.,
Line see below.
C. Northern Norway.
(a) Hull to Trondlgem, dn/rect, by Wilson Line strs. (of very high
speed, lighted by electricity and splendidly fitted), every Thursday
during the season ; otherwise on alternate Thursdays, in 65-70 hrs. ;
landing passengers at Aalesund and Christiansund, and at Molde when
speciaUy arranged. Fares : 1st cl. single, 61, 10a. ; return, 91, 15a.
2nd cl. single, Al, 4a. ; return, 61, 6a. Victg. included.
[Obs, — For return vid another port see (b) "B. Western Norway,"
where this route, which partly belongs to our W. coast section, has already
been mentioned.]
(b) Hamburg to Trondhjem and Vadsd. See {h) "B. Western
Norway."
[108] Skeleton Routes and Access to Norway.
(c) Stettin-CopenliagenoTroiidlgom, every 10 or 11 days, touohingf at
Arendal, ChristianBand, Stavanger, Bergen, Aalesund, and Christian-
Blind, in about 5 days, by the Danish "Forenede Dampskibsselskab "
Line. Fa/res f from Copenhagen to Trondhjem : 1st d. single, SI. Is, ;
2nd cl. single, 21, Is. Betiim, 25 per cent, allowed on fall fare. Yictg.
As, 6d. per diem*
(d) For other means of access to N. Norway see preceding
" B. Western Norway,*' and contemporaneous time-tables and adver-
tisements, which must in all cases, we repeat, be carefully consulted.
»
Section I
SOUTH, CENTRAL, AND EAST NORWAY
[Norway — vi. 92.]
LIST OF ABBREVIATIONS,
Bufl. = Bufifet.
Oh. = Church.
Dil. = Diligence.
Ft. = Feet (always English).
Hr. = Hour.
Isl. = Island.
Eil. = KilomMre.
Kr. = Kroner.
L. = Left hand.
M. = Miles (always English).
Min. i= Minute.
Mtn. = Mountain.
0. = Ore.
R. = Biver.
Bd. = Boad.
Bly. = Bailway.
Bt. = Bight hand.
Bte. - Boute.
St. = Street (gade in Norwegian).
Stat. = Station.
Str. = Steamer.
EOUTES.
[The names of places are printed in italics only in those Boutes
where the places are described.]
Route Page
1. To Christianiat vid Chris-
Uansandf by sea . . 3
2. To Christiania from Copen-
hagen or Gothenburg, vid
FrederikshaJd and Sarps-
horg, by rail ... 24
3. Stockholm to Christiania,
vid Charlottenberg and
KongsvingeTt by rail . 28
4. Christiania to Skierit vid
Drammen,&G.,yni»h. branch
to Horten, by rail . . 29
5. Skien to Odde (Hardanger)
and Bergen, vid Tele-
marken .... 36
6. Christiania to Kongsherg^
vid Drammen and Houg-
sund, by rail ; and to the
BjuJcanfos and Hitterdalj
by road and str. . . 42
7. Christiania to Bandsfjordt
vid Hougsund and HQne-
fosy by rail ... 46
8. Christiania to Bergen, vid
Randsfjord, VatderSy the
Fillefjeld, and Lcerddl-
s&ren (Sogne fjord), by
rail, str., and road . . 48
Route
9. Christiania to Bergen, vid
Kr&derenj Hallingdal, and
Lferdalsoren, by rail, str.,
and road . . . .
10. Christiania to Bergen, vid
Lake Spirillen, Yalders,
and Lffirdalsoren, by rail,
str., and road .
11. The Jottmheim . . .
12. Christiania to Molde, vid
LaheMjbsen, Oudbrands-
dal, and Romsdaly by rail
str., and road .
13. Christiania to Trondhjem
through Gudbrandsdal
and over the Dovrefjeld
by rail, str., and road
14. Christiania to Trondhjem
by rail .
15. Christiania to Christian-
sand, vid intermediate
ports ....
16. Arendal, or Tvedestrand, to
Telemarken, by road
17. Christiansand to Telemar-
ken, through Scetersdalen,
by road ....
Page
54
56
58
71
81
85
89
91
92
KOUTE 1.
TO OHBISTIANZA, vid CHBISTIANSAND.
(By sea.)
[For means and cost of access, distance and
length of voyage, see IntraductionJ]
In about 8 hrs. after leaving Hull
(73 m. from the Humber) the str.
passes over the S.W. patch of the
sandy Dogger Bank — the productive
fishing-ground of the N. Sea — where
passengers are enlivened by the pic-
turesque sight of hundreds of smacks
of the great N. Sea fishing-fleets
flitting about in every direction, or
steady at their trawls. On approach-
ing this bank the water suddenly
shoals from about 150 ft. to 42 ft., the
shoal extending a distance of about 6
m., when the water gradually deepens
to 60 and 100 ft., until 50 m. from
the coast of Norway, where the
depth in many places along the
coast exceed 200 fms. On the sands
in question a sea rises rapidly with
a fresh wind, but subsides as quickly.
Beyond the Dogger the interest of
the passenger is perforce centred in
the movements of the swift seagulls
that follow the vessel in the hope,
frequently gratified, of having food
thrown to them.
Strs. from London only skirt the
S.E. edge of the Dogger, while those
from the N. of England pass along it
to the N.
b2
4
Route 1. — To Christiania hy 8ea.
The first sight of the Norwegian
coast, generally obtained in aboat 26
hrs. from Hull and 40 hrs. from
London, is not very striking or
pleasing, as it consists of compara-
tively low rocky and rounded pro-
montories. Of these, Cape lAn-
desnces (the Naze) is the point to-
wards which the ship's coarse is
usually set. Keeping well to the E. of
it, and after passing OksO light, the
str. makes direct for the narrow W.
entrance of the harbour of the city of
Chriitiansand, « the capital of the
eccles. prov. or diocese of that name.
Pop. 12,830. Brit, Vice-Consul and
U.S. Cons. Agency,
[Steam commanication E. and W., with
Denmark, &o., by mail and other steamships ;
also local strs. to neighbouring places on the
coast.]
ToPOGBAPHY, Ac. — Founded in
1641, by Christian IV. (but a site of
great commercial importance for
nearly a cent, earlier), the city ranks
as the fourth, while its harbour is
one of the best in Norway. On the
other hand, travellers will on landing
be ^sappointed with the architectursJ
meajmess and the outward dulness
(especially on Sundays) of so import-
ant a place. The houses are mostly
of timber and 2-storeyed, lining
wide and deserted-looking streets
that run at rt. angles. This is,
however, the residence of the pro-
vincial prefect and of the bishop.
The Cathedral is a whitewashed
building of stone, restored after a
great fire in 1880, and ranking next
to the caths. of Trondhjem and
Stavanger ; the Altar-piece, by Eilif
Petersen, is worthy of admiration.
(Keys at 26 Vestre Strand st.) The
square around it is prettily laid out
as a Public garden, with a handsome
granite fountain. The Torrisdal
(Otteraa) r. enters the fjord E. of
the city. In former times the har-
* This sign in the text appended to a
Name indicates that further information re-
lating to the subject is to be found in the
Index and Directorp at the end of the
book.
hour was defended by a Fort on the
small island of OdderD, at its entrance ;
but, like the older Fortifications on
Flekkerd island (5 m. S.), raised in
the l^th cent., the defences are
practically obsolete. They favoured,
however, the privateering exploits of
the Norwegians between 1807 and
1812, when England was an enemy.
The city has a considerable export
trade in timber, wood pulp, and fish.
In 1890, 208,260 mackerel, 231,000
live lobsters, and 110 tons of fresh
salmcm were shipped, a large propor-
tion being for Great Britain. A
large trade in salted mackerel is being
developed with the U.S.A.
Walks amd Drives. — The strs. from
ports in Great Britain generally re-
main long enough in harbour to
enable travellers to correct the impres-
sion of Norway which they may derive
from the aspect of the city and its
immediate surroundings. They are
strongly recommended, subject to
advice received on board, to walk or
drive to the pretty Ba'tmedal (valley)
W. of the city. Even on foot (a
charming walk) the str. can be
regained in 2 hrs., while the use of a
cab (see Index), if available at a very
early hour, will shorten the time con-
siderably : it will take the Satersdal-
Mandal high road, over Egelunden
(oak-grove). Pedestrians will make
for a ridge N.W. of the city, now
prettily planted and intersected by
a network of paths, approached by
way of the Fire-stat. and the School-
house in Tordenskjold st, ascend-
ing thence to the Cemetery on the
Saatersdals rd., in which is a monu-
ment to the Danes who fell at Heli-
goland in 1864. From the ridge, on
which are several tarns, a pretty
view of the city and its marine sur-
roundings will be obtained. Following
one of the paths over the ridge, a
valley-road, somewhat hilly and with
a rivulet winding through it, will be
reached in a few minutes. Bearing
then to the rt., the charming natorcJ
pleasure-grounds of the BavnedalwXL
be entered. They are enclosed by
Route 1. — Ghristiansand,
Mgh perpendicular rocks. The small
ionntain and pond are fed by a lake
on the hill above (the Bavneheif
reached by a flight of steps at the
upper end of the grounds), from
which a fine and extensive view of the
sea and the vicinity can be enjoyed.
Refreshments at the Bestauranti
where a band sometimes plays from
5.30 to 7 P.M.
If the traveller have more than 2
hrs. at his disposal, he should take one
of the footpaths that lead S. from the
Bavnedal grounds to the Beacon on
the highest point of the ridge, whence
a vast prospect opens. Continuing a
little way to the rt. of the beacon and
then turning to the 1. towards the
cliff in front of Klappene farm^ the
Orimsdal (valley) will be seen lying
deep below. Returning to the beacon,
and following thence the crest of the
mtn. in a straight line (with a slight
declension to the rt.), the pedestrian
can descend to the Beservoirs of the
Eg lunatic asylum (an imposing
building), from which a beautiful view
will be had over the asylum and
its plantations, as well as of the
lower course of the Otteraa r., S&dal
and EgstO farms j Oddemces ch. tower ^
Qimle mansion^ and the upper and
lower Kongsgaard hotises. Eg asylum
can easily be reached in ^ an hr. from
the city by a good road along the
river bank. If the traveller shall have
driven to the Bavnedal, the carriage
can be ordered to meet him at Eg, 2
hrs. then sufficing for the entire trip.
A shorter way to Eg is the path
from the Bavnedal, past the Svart-
l^em ("Black Pool "), direct to the
reservoirs. A good pedestrian can
take the longest route from the city
and back in 2 hrs.
A pleasant short walk can be taken
to OddemcBS ch,f reached by a bridge
across the Otteraa r. from the E. end
of the city. The ch. is of some
antiquity, with several old tombstones
and a Bunic stone. Like the neigh-
bouring Hamrehei (ridge), it affords
an excellent point of view. To attain
the latter, the LUlesand (or E.) rd. is
followed as far as the broad parish
road running to the rt., and, continu-
ing along the latter to the Stenklev
(crag), the ridge will be seen to the rt.
The Dticknipe is another charming
point of vantage. Leaving the city
by the fine road running W. and
visible from the harbour, and after
passing the Mdllervand (lake), a mtn.-
path from the top of the Mdllevands-
kleVy or crag, ascends (1.) to the
object of the walk. The descent can
be made in the opposite direction to-
wards the W. harbour, down to the
W. road above mentioned, and on
which will be passed the Sandmg
pleasure-grounds i where a military
band frequently plays.
OdderOen is a rocky island S. of the
city, from which it is separated by a
canal (Oravene) connecting the E.
and W. harbours. Pretty walks and
views, the latter more especially from
the Kikud (the highest point, 350 ft.),
where there are ruins of an old Watch-
tower thskt has frequently been injured
by lightning.
Excursions, — These are too numer-
ous to be fully described, and some
of the pretty places in the Saetersdal
valley accessible from the city will
be mentioned in Bte. 19. In half a
day the tourist can make a trip up the
Otteraa river (twice daily) to Kvar-
sten (11 kil. or 1 hr.) and walk thence
to the Vigelandsfos and the Hundsfos
{Helvedesfos)y 2 picturesque water-
falls. Distance by road to Vigelands-
fos about 16 kil. (1^ hr. drive).
Strs. also run twice daily (about 3
hrs. there and back) up the Topdals-
fjord (a northern prolongation of the
main fjord) and the Topsdal river to
Enarestad, where the Bofos is of
interest on account of the salmon-
fishing pursued there. They stop at
2 very pretty places — Bonene and
Boon.
[Enterprising explorers of the
vicinity should apply to the local
Tourist Association for more exten-
sive or minute information.]
Fishmg and Shooting, — Salmon-
fishing procurable at Vigelandsfos
on application to the proprietor in
Route 1. — To Christiania by Sea.
GhriBtianBand, on payment of 4 kr.
per rod and day, in addition to about
2.60 kr. for a boatman. Excellent
trout-fishing in the mtn. lakes and
tarns, between the OttercLa r. and
the ScBtersdal (Mandal) high road.
Several large lakes in other direc-
tions afford excellent sport, with per-
mission, easily obtained of the
peasant-proprietors, who supply
boats. Special mention may, how-
ever, be made of the Aureheck and
Hogund lakes, near Mosby (1^ hr.
drive) ; also of OUlsvand (^ hr.
drive). Permission, without charge
except for boats, is given by the pro-
prietor of Emst^s hotel. Sea-fishi/ng
of every kind is excellent, as is also
the wild-duck and other shooting.
At Christiansand the str. is moored
to a pier for a time more or less vari-
able, contingent on the quantity of
cargo to be discharged or loaded. It
is seldom that passengers are not
given time for a stroll on shore, where
there is, however, but little to see,
especially on a Sunday. Those who
are bound for the W. coast, for
Scptersdalen^ or for points on the S.E.
coast, disembark here. Telegrams^ on
forms supplied by the steward and
written in inky can be despatched
through the str.'s agent.
Leaving the harbour by the wide E.
outlet, and skirting the coast at a dis-
tance of about 6 m., the str. runs nearly
100 m. about E.N.E. up the Skageraky
and usually in 9-10 hrs. passes to the
W. of the rugged rocky islets, on one
of which the Fcerder iron lighthouse
is planted. Here, properly speaking,
begins the Christiania fjord. It
runs about 60 m. due N. and, after
gradually narrowing from a width of
10 m. (on the parallel of Faarder) to
about 2.^ m. between the small town
and naval stat. of Horten (Bte. 4) on
the W., and the town of Moss on the
E. (Bte. 13), widens out again, and
sends out a branch on the N.W. which
terminates at Dra/mmen (Bte. 4), and
another to the N. that ends at the
modem capital of Norway. The lat-
ter is protected from naval attack by
the fort of Oscarsborg (on Kaholmen
island), on which several heavy guns
are mounted behind the earthworks
which, in deference to modem mili-
tary requirements, now cover the
solid and handsome stonework origi-
nally erected. A barrage, carrying
less than 6 ft. of water, juts out from
the S.E. angle of the fort to the rocks
in front, and thence to the main-
land on the W., compelling vessels
to approach Christiania only by the
easternmost channel, well commanded
by artillery, and to be strengthened
in the event of war by torpedo de-
fences. Just before reaching the fort,
the str. passes in front of ^e pictu-
resque little town of
Drobak. ^ Pop. 2100. Brit. Cons.
Agent.
Although, when viewed from the
str., this town seems to occupy only
a narrow rocky foreshore, it stretches
back to some distance in very pretty
wooded scenery, and its aspect from
a height to the S. is very picturesque.
It is encompassed on the E. by con-
siderable pine-woods of great beauty,
while beyond the high ridge seen from
the fjord lies one of the most beauti-
ful and fertile tracts in S. Norway.
Connected by an excellent road (13
kil.) with Aas stat. (Bte. 2), and
witn frequent daily steamship com-
munication (about If hr.) with the
capital, it is certainly destined to be
the Brighton of Christiania, although
not yet in fashion. The sea-bathing
is superior to any in the Christiania
fjord, the water preserving all its
saltness by the absence of any con-
siderable fresh-water streams and by
the strong current, of which the origin
is partly tidal, but mainly attributable
to the narrowness of this part of the
fjord and to the strategical works
above mentioned. The air is daily
refreshed with ozone brought direct
from the N. Sea by the Sol-vind
(sun-wind), which blows almost regu-
larly from the S. until the afternoon,
when the Sotmd has frequently the
appearance of a sheet of glass. This
is the favourite time for a row in
Route 1. — DrobaJc,
search of sea-iishing, almost every
variety of which is found in Drobak
Sound. The hernng-fisMng with 6
to 8 bare white hooks on a fine line,
" jiggered " at a depth of a yard or
two from the bottom (sometimes 15
fms.), is very amusing; while the
sport with set (coal-fish) j which fre-
quently come up in playful shoals, is
a delight to sportsmen who do not
disdain sea-fishing. Codlmg (and
even cod up to 15 and 20 lbs.), had-
dock, and whiting are caught in large
quantities, especially with night-lines.
In the proper season the sea-trout
fishing is not bad. Many neighbour-
ing lakes are stocked with fine trout,
but special permission to take them
must be obtained.
The town is full of shops, in which
all household requisites are obtain-
able, and, in ad^tion to the hotels
mentioned in the Index, apartments
can be obtained at moderate prices
{71. to 102. for the season of 4 months).
It will not be long before the atten-
tion of British and native capitalists
will be called to the remunerativeness
of converting Drobak into a fashion-
able watering-place. An Aq^tutrium
and Marine Biological staL are al-
ready being established.
Travellers will notice to the rt. of
the fortress the charmingly situated
summer residence of Mr. S. Parr,
a descendant of " Old Parr." He is
the "Ice King" of Norway, having
originated that trade, to the great
advantage of Brdbak, which is the
centre of it in the upper part of the
Christiania fjord. The tower of the
old wooden Ch. of Drdbak will be seen
rising close to the grounds of Mr.
Parr's villa. It contains an old
carved altar-piece of great interest.
Attached to it is a Cemetery, kept with
the beautiful neatness so frequently
seen in Norway.
Stemming the strong current of
the Drdbak Sovmd (produced mainly
by the barrage above-mentiohed), the
str. enters into a broad expanse of
water studded with numerous islands.
Already within a mile of Brobak the
traveller will have noticed one of the
ice-houses that are so numerous on
the E. coast to within a short dis-
tance from Christiania. Ice that has
not been shipped direct from lakes
in winter or early spring is stored in
those houses, and it is one of the at-
tractions to passengers on this part
of the voyage to watoh the shining
blocks rushing down wooden shoots
to the deck of a str. or sailing vessel,
bound in most cases for the shores
of Great Britain.
The voyage all the way up the
fjord is now a moving panorama of
lake scenery, unique in character and
of considerable beauty. Those who
expect savage grandeur and a pictu-
resque outUne of mtns. and rocks
will be disappointed, for, beautiful as
it is, the aspect is tame compared
with scenery in the fjords of the W.
coast. Most of the islands and hills
are too round in form to be very pic-
turesque; they are of granite and
gneiss, and for the most part covered
with fir and pine trees from the
water's edge to the summit.
If steaming up the fjord between
the months of May and July, the
traveller will be much struck by the
lightness of the nights, and the gor-
geous sunset effects, which blend into
those of sunrise without losing their
brightness. The course being due N.
(towards the sun) there is probably
no place in the whole of Norway
where sunsets are seen to greater
advantage.
On the 1., just before reaching
Christiania (158 m. and about 12 hrs.
from Christiansand), will be seen the
Ladegaardsd penin., thickly covered,
like the rest of the neighbourhood E.
and W., with pretty wooden villas.
The city is now in sight at the foot
of a hilly amphitheatre. The more
striking objects on the 1. are the
palace and the huge block of hand-
some buildings erected on " Victoria
Terrace " by Mr. Peter Petersen, one
of the most enterprising and patriotic
citizens of Christiania. The slim but
tall crenellated tower of Osoarshall
adorns the small bay to the W., while
Route 1. — To Christiania by Sea.
straight in front lies the once strong
castle of AkershtLs. Bounding the
point on which it stands, the str. is
soon alongside the rly. quay, nearly
opposite the Custom-house^ the offi-
cials of which immediately come
on board and clear luggage with a
rapidity and consideration seldom
exercised elsewhere on the continent.
Porters and hotel omnibuses will be
found waiting.
CHBISTIAKIA, « the capital of
Norway. Pop. 156,000. Lat. 69° 64'
N. ; long. 10° 43' E. Time, 43 min.
in advance of London. BrU. Cons.-
Oen. and U.S. Cons,^
Hbtort. — The city was founded in 1624
by Christian IV. of Denmark, after the de-
stmotion by fire, daring the same year, of
Oslo, a town (now an easterly suburb at the
foot of Egeberg Hill) of which the estabUsh-
ment is ascribed to Harald Haardraade
(about A.D. 1050), who built a oastle and
other edifices on its site, which is supposed
to have been occupied long previously by a
village. Oslo was the seat of a bishopric in
the middle ages, when it became, after Ber-
gen, practically the capital of the kingdom
and the largest town in Norway, although
not imssessing more than five thousand
inhabitants. Towards the close of the 14th
cent, its trade and industry had become
monopolist by merchants and artisans from
Bostock and other cities of the Hanseatic
League. As in other Norwegian towns,
these established, guilds from which drastic
and exclusive mercantile regulations con-
tinued to be issued and enforced until the
reign of Christian II. (1613-1624). In the
16th and 17th cent, fires repeatedly de-
vastated the town. It was burned down
by its inhabitants in 1667, while besieged by
the Swedes, who had destroyed it 40 vears
before. Christiania was several times visited
by the plague in the 17th cent., and in the
18th a great fire destroyed a considerable
part of it. In 1716 it was occupied for a
month by the army of Charles XII., which,
laying si^e to Akershus, destroyed many
buildings. Prosperitv was finally established
at the middle of that cent., when great
riches were amassed by merchant princes, of
whom one (Collett) was of English origin.
Their trade was mainly in timber, while their
principal mercantile connections were with
England, where many of their sons studied.
In 1807, however, a scories of calamitous events
interrupted that prosperity, and by the year
* The names of British and American Con-
sular officers need not be given, changes
being frequent. They can be ascertained at
any hotel, where also the address of the office
will be given
1814, when Norway was united with Sweden,
the great commercial houses had nearly all
failed. Commerce began to revive in the suc-
ceeding years, and the pop. of the city to in-
crease. It is now, after Copenhagen and Stock-
holm, the most im])ortant city in Scandinavia.
A considerable manufacturing industry has
been developed in it along the small Akers elv,
a stream insignificant in coze, but affording^
by its numerous small waterfalls considerable
motive-power to a large cotton-miU, a flour-
mill, and many other industrial establish-
ments. Close to the river are the Yolcan
mechanical works, owned in great part by
an Englishman. There are several large
breweries in the city. The trade, of which
the value in 1888 amounted to 6,000,000;.,
consists in the exportation chiefiy of timbca:,
paper pulp, matches, and other Norwegian
produce, and in the importation of foreigpa
goods and materials, not only for local con-
sumption, but also for distribution over a
considerably part of the country — ^by rail and
shipping. As in olden days, the trade is
principally with Great Britain. The shipping
owned in Christiania amounts to 140,000 tons
in sailing v&ssels, and about S0,000 in
strs. : collectively much larger than the
tonnage of any other Norwegian port,
although Bergen is superior in steam tonnage
(70,000 tons). Connected by rail with the con-
tinental lines, and being the starting-point
for journeys inland by rly. and for ocean or
coasting voyages by str., Christiania is
deriving more and more benefit from the
tourist traffic, which will undoubtedly in-
crease when the projected rly. to Bergen
shall have been built.
[For further historical references, see de-
scription of buildings, Ac]
TopooBAPHY. — Few travellers will
care to make themselves minutely
acquainted with a city comparatively
so modem. Their chief haunt will be
the main thoroughfare, Carl Johan's
Oade (street), and its vicinity, where
the merchants' and government
offices, the shops, public edifices,
museums, and monuments, are cen-
tred. With the aid of the accom-
panying Plan they will direct their
steps towards some or all of tiie fol-
lowing
pRiNcrPAii Sights and Places op
Interest.
1. The Boyal Palace, from which a
commanding view is obtained. It
stands on an eminence, in a park, to
which Carl Johan st. leads. In front
is a fine Statue by B» Bergslien of
King Carl Johan, founder of the pre-
Route 1. — Ch/nstiania,
sent dynasty. The motto on it is,
"My reward is the love of the
People."
Built 1823-1848, after a design
by LinstoWy a German architect, its
exterior is very plain and monotonous.
When the court is not in residence
(seldom in summer) the interior can
be seen daily (2 to 5 p.m. ) on applica-
tion to the Vagtmester or Porter
(entrance-door at S.E. comer), to
whom a fee of 1 to 2 kr. should be
given.
The Qtieen^s apartments on the
ground-floor (particularly the White
Dravwig -room) are pretty. Above
them are the King's apartments.
They are entered through a room
(formerly the audience-chamber), of
which the walls are, like those of the
Throne - room and State Drawmg-
roomy decorated with Norwegian land-
scapes by Flintoe, In the Private
Drawvng-room are portraits of the
first sovereigns of the House of Ber-
nadotte ; to the 1. of this is the King*s
Study, The Billiard-room close by
has been very handsomely fitted up
by the king. In the private Dining-
room are pictures by Munchy Arboy
and BergsUeny representing the coro-
nations of 1818, 1860, and 1873.
There is a marble figure of Buth by
Jacobsen in the adjoining Red Sa-
loony which leads into the fine and
lofty State Hall (Festsal)y adorned
with Corinthian columns. The State
Dinmg-room alongside is Pompeian
in style. In the private apartments
are paintings and sculptures by
Norwegian artists — " Village Cate-
chising," by Tiedemand; the "Naval
Battle of Svolder " (about a.d. 1000),
by O. Sindingy <fec. — many having
been presents to Their Majesties on
their silver-wedding day, 1882.
Works of art in other parts of the
palace will be pointed out by the
custodian. We need now draw atten-
tion only to the 2 marble reliefSy
by S. Sindingy that embeUish the
State staircase; they represent Carl
Johan laying the foundation-stone
of the palace, and Oscar 11. unveil-
ing the equestrian statue to the
same sovereign. From the roof more
especially, an uninterrupted and
splendid view is obtained of the
city, the fjord, and the surrounding
country. An equally beautiful, but
more restricted, view will be had
from a balcony, to which visitors will
for that purpose be conducted.
At the S.E. comer of the pretty
palace park is a building that con-
tains a la/rge telescope (by Olsen)y
which the public are permitted to
use.
2. The UniTersity (founded 1811),
with its 4 Ionic pillars and its por-
tico of hewn granite, is at once recog-
nisable in Carl Johan st. It consists
of 3 buildings, designed by Oroschy
with the assistance of Schinkel of
Berlin. In front of the central block
is a Statue (by Middelthtm) to A,M»
Schweigaardy an eminent jurist and
politician who died in 1870.
More than 1000 students attend
the lectures given by 56 professors
attached to 6 faculties.
In the centre building are the
Zoological, Botanical, Zootomical,
Mineralogioal, and Ethnographical
Museums.
(1) The Zoological Museum (Sun.,
Mon., and Fri. 12-2). This is on the
first floor, to the 1. Passing through the
Beadvng-room {hirdBy <ftc.), the visitor
will find specimens of most of the
Mammalia. In Boom III. are fishes
and reptiles; in Boom lY. native
birds, including some curious hybrids.
A staircase to the 1. descends to
(2) The ZooUmUcal Mtiseum (Mon.
and Fri. 12-2), with skeletons of
animals and microscopic collec-
tions.
(3) The Ethnographical Museum
(Sun. 12-2; Mon. and Fri. 1-2)
is reached from a staircase as-
cending from the N. door of the W.
side of the building. In Booms I. and
III. are costumes, furniture, and
implements illustrating the life of
10
Route 1. — To Christiania fey Sea.
the Norwegian piuwantry. Boom 11. is
the Lapliuid section : a tent, rein-
deer-sledge {pulk),oo]pj of a sorcerer's
dmm, &c. Boom IV., cariosities
from Australia, &c. The remaining
rooms (Y. to IX.) on the second floor
contain cnrions objects from various
parts of the New World, and also
from Greenland.
(4) The Botanical Museum (Mon.
10--12) is on the first floor, L of the
yestibole. Specimens of every plant
found in Norway will be found here,
as well as collections of fossils, wood,
Ao,
(5) The Mineralogical Museum
(Fri. 12-1) contains one of the most
perfect collections of the university.
Specimens of Norwegian rock, silver,
&c.
In the £. wing {Domus Academica)
are located : (1) on the ground floor,
the lecture and other rooms of some
of the faculties *, the Festsal or Great
Hall (Aula)t ^ large and handsome
semicircular chamber, in which the
English service was performed be-
fore the present ch. was built. It is
here that degrees are conferred, <fto.
(2) The Collection of Northern
Antiquities (Sun., Mon., Fri. 12-2)
is on the first floor, and repre-
sents, in about 12,000 objects, the
ages, severally, of flint, bronze,
and iron, as well as partly the Chris-
tian middle ages. It is richer than
any other museum in the N. in
specimens from the early iron (Viking)
age. Conmiencing witib the flint and
bronze ages (farthest to rt. of en-
trance), visitors will find Booms II.
to rV. appropriated to the earlier and
later parts of the iron period.
MedisBval relics (ld. 1000-1500),
carvings, weapons, &c., are exhibited
in Boom V. Observe the massive
gold collar and other gold and silver
ornaments found (18S4) in Akershus
parish, and identical with objects in
the Kertch Museum, St. Petersburg.
The Runic carvings on wood and
stone should also be noticed. The
portals from old Norwegian stav
(plank) chs. (11th to 14th cents.) are
curious for the art which they dis-
play, and which appears to be Irisb,
Anglo-Saxon, or " Busso-Byzantine "
in character. In Boom VI. are more
lintels and portals of the same
period as that illustrated in Boorti
v., while Boom Vll. has a store of
antiquities of the 16th and 17th
cents.
On the same floor is a Numis-
matical Collection (Mon. and Fri.
1-2) consisting of 50,000 specimens.
The W. wing houses a Library
of 250,000 vols., with an excellent
Reading-room (11-3, but closed in
July and Aug.) Books are lent to
persons who are known.
8. The Vikuig Ship (Mon. and
Fri. 12-2, gratis; but admission at
any other time, in daylight, by ap-
plication to the Vagtmestefy who will
be found on the ground floor of
the main university building, either
through the corridor entered from
the planted courtyard with some
Runic stones at the back (gate in
Universitets st.), or from a small low
door in front (rt. hand) of the centre
edifice, in Carl Johan st. : fee 25 o.-
1 kr.) Ghristiania, and perhaps Nor-
way, is worth a visit if only to view
this remarkable and unique relic of
the Viking age (9th cent.) It is
nothing less than one of the ships
in which the Scandinavian pirates ra-
vaged the shores of Britain, from the
Shetland islands to those of Scilly,
and from the mainland of Scot-
land to the shores of East Anglia
and the banks of the Thames, Lon-
don included. We can assume that
in similar vessels they made their
way to Constantinople on the one
hand, and to the country now known
as Bussia on the other. (See " Hist.
Notice.") The bottoms of 2 smaller
craft had been discovered some time
previously at Tune, in the valley of
the Glommen, and are preserved in
an adjoining shed. The ship in ques-
tion was discovered in 1880 by a
peasant proprietor at Gk>kstad, near
Sandefjord (Christiania fjord), who,
Route 1. — ChrUtiawia,.
11
being on the point of min, dug, as a
last resource, into a mound on his
land, traditionally reputed to be the
burial-place of an ancient chieftain.
Pieces of worked timber soon came to
view, and, the university authorities
having been communicated with, the
treasure was secured to the State
by compensation which retrieved
the fortunes of the finder. The ship
proved to be a 32 -oared (16 on
eil^er side) craft, contemporaneously
known as a sekstensesset preserved to
an astonishing extent in the clay in
which it had been embedded, and
with which (in combination with
earth) it had been covered when it
was nauled on shore to receive the
mortal remains of some great leader
of Vikings *). In the centre of the
ship a chamber was found with a
roof of logs (still m situ)y in which
were the 2 well-preserved bed-
steads now exhibited under the vessel.
Whether the chief was buried with
his wife cannot be determined from
the few human bones (mixed with
those of horses and dogs) that were
discovered. One of the tibuB, ex-
hibited with part of a skull in a glass
case on the wall near the door, shows
from its enlargement that the Viking
had suffered from rheumatism. Any
ornaments of value that may liave
been buried with him must have
been abstracted on the occasion of an
ancient rifling of the tomb through
one of the sides of the vessel, which
was found damaged in that direction.
The ship was cut in two at this part
in order to admit of its being floated
on a raft to Christiania.
The Viking ship is 76 ft. long,
with a maximum beam of 16 ft., and
is pointed at both ends on exactly the
same beautiful lines, the stem being
distinguished only by the rudder, at-
tached by a stout rope, not to the stem-
post, but to the starboard (rt.) side,
* It has been ezplained in the " Hist. Notice "
that '* Yiking " was a general term for those
who took part in the maritime expeditions to
which reference has been made, and does not
imply a sovereign,' as the sound of the word
would seem to convey.
close to the stem. It is clinker-built,
with iron rivets, of which the greater
part look as if they had been only
recently made. This is all the more
remarkable since nothing remains of
the anchor except its wooden stock
(lying under the ship). Some of the
bossed shields have been restored to
their places to show how the gun-
wales were protected against the
breaking of the waves. Part of the
mast lies on an iron rest (new) along
the middle of the ship, under which,
on the port (1.) side, lies the very
gangway by wnich the hardy Norse-
man ascended and descended. On
the walls of the shed (which is still
of wood, instead of corrugated iron,
and therefore liable at any time to
destruction, with its invaluable con-
tents) are ranged remnants of the
oars (some perfect) of small boats,
with their rudders and masts (observe
a finely carved tiller rt. of door), and
of wooden platters, spades, &c. In
the bronze cauldron suspended on
iron links the Vikings cooked their
food. Under the glass of a case to the
rt. of the door are seen scraps of the
gold-threaded cloth which formed the
tent of the chieftain in the stem of
the vessel. The wooden supports for
it, terminating in horses' heads, are
over the case. This also contains
some singed feathers of a peacock,
drinking-cups of wood (much shrank),
and a variety of other small articles.
A large model in a case gives an idea
of the ship in its original condition.
[A. short description of the ship in English
(60 9.), and photographs, are sold in the shed.
A weU-illustrated and exhaustive account of
the Viking ship, by N. Kicolaysen (in Nor-
wegian and English), can be purchased (13 kr.)
at Gammermeyer's, bookseller.]
4. Art Union (Kunstforening), at
the comer of Pilestrssde and at the N.
end of Universitets sts. (daily, except
Sat. and Sun. 12-2.30; 20 o.) The
building will be recognised by its
ornamentation with medallions of
celebrated artists (by Jacobsen). On
the ground floor is the Art Industry
Museum, founded 1877 for the collec-
12
Route 1. — To Ch/ristiania by Sea.
tion of Bpecimens of national artistic
industry. It contains, however, many
electrotype reproductions of foreign
(as well as Norwegian) objects of art.
The Norwegian section is of most
interest. It exhibits many fine old
carved presses and other ancient
articles of furniture, various Nor-
wegian antiquities, a fine collection
of glass, specimens of old Norwegian
tapestry, &c.
5. The Xusenm of Sculpture and
Kational Pictore-Oallery is likewise
in Universitets st., at the back of the
university (daily, except Sat. 12-2 ;
admission free Sun., Tues., and
Thurs. ; other days, J to 1 kr. to
porter). The building, which is in
the Italian Benaissance style, was
presented to the city by the Christi-
ania Savings Bank, and is still short
of the 2 wings contemplated by the
architect {A. Schirmer).
On the ground floor will be found
the
Soulpture-Oallery (cat. 1 kr.) The first 3
rooms and the yestlbule contain casts ot
ancient and modern sculptures ; in the others
are a few original Norwegian works (bjr Fla-
dager, Borch^ and Skeibrok). Ascending a
staircase (with sculptures) the visitor reaches
the
Fioture-Oallery (cat 1 kr.) It contains
about 300 pictures. In^the first (E.) room
will be found pictures of the Danish and
StcedUh schools. Of the former, see 198, Jens
Juel^ '*Bernt Anker," a Norwegian patriot of
18th cent. ; 202, N. Simonsen^ ** Caravan in a
Simoom " ; 204, 205, Gr.orOand^ Flowers and
Fruit ; 206, Sdrensen^ " Oresund," near Kron-
borg. Among the Swedish pictures may be
mentioned: 210, Kjdrhoe, "A Fox " ; 214, 216,
Atnaiie Lindgren^ "Mother and Child," and
"Grandfather's Lesson"; 217, Fofferlin,
" Bachelor's Discomforts " ; and 218, E. Bergh,
« A Birch Wood."
In S. room (to rt.) are pictures by Norwegian
artists^ past and present (see Introduction) :
230, J. a Dahl, " Laurvik," in the Christiania
fjord ; 236, T.Feamley, "The Labrofos" (near
Eongsberg); 241, Baade^ "Norwegian Coast
by Moonlight" ; 24&-ZA%, Adolf Tidemand, "A
Solitary Couple at Prayers," " Cottage Meet-
ing of Haugianer Sectarians," and "Adminis-
tration of Sacrament to a Moribund " ; 253,
254, Eckersberg^ " Valle,in Saetersdalen " and
" Mountain Scenery " ; 258-261, H. F. Oude,
Norwegian Views, and " Christiania Fjord " ;
267, H. A. Cappelen, "Forest Scene in Lower
Tdemarken " ; 272, JT. Bergslien, " Portrait of
Artist's Father " ; 273, 274, Morten MUUer,
"Scenes in Christiania and Hardanger Fjords";
276, E. Bodom, "View in Nordmarken " ; 278,
279, /». H. Arbo, " The Asgaardsrejn " (Wild
Huntsman), and *• The Valkyries " (this na-
tional mythol-picture is a standard work of
art) ; 287, L. Munthe, « Winter Coast Scene " ;
289, 289a, E. Petersen^ " Portrait of a Lady "
and " The Siesta " ; 299, Am. Nielsen, " Scene,
Hardanger"; 302, E. Werenskjold, "Tele-
markenGirl" ; 806, Gerh. Munthe, "A Sum-
mer's Day" ; 308, 0. Sinding^ "Scene in Lo-
foten Islands."
(For more modern pictures, constantly
sidded, see Catalogue.)
In the W. room are some sketches and
studies by A. Tidemand^ and out of it open
the 2 N. rooms, devoted to masters of the
various schools of the continent (without anv
English specimens). This collection (for which
see Catalogue) will not long arrest the atten-
tion of visitors.
From the W. room ascent may be made to a
Collection of Drawings^ EtehingSj and Engrav-
ings, more than 6000.
6. SixnoiuieiL's Art CollectioiL (oomer
of MoUer st., leading to SL Edmund's
ch.) Few travellers aware of its exist-
ence f aU to pay a yisit to it. Gourteons
reception (free), daily (Sun. pre-
ferred), on application at business
(grocer's) premises. The small rooms
are replete with valuable objects of
art (mostly Scandinavian), although
the glass collection and most of the
old silver gathered by Mr. Simonsen
have been purchased by the State for
the Art Industry Museum (see above).
7. Chorehes. — (a) The oldest in or
about Christiania is QamU (old)
Ak^rS'Evrke (ch.), at the N. extremity
of the city, beyond the pretty Vor
Frelsers (Our Saviour's) Qravhmd
(cemetery). Erected in the 11th
oent. of hewn stone, in the Anglo-
Norman Romanesque style, it was re-
stored in 1860-61, when the steeple
was added. The huge old pillars
inside this basilica are impressive,
and the interior is further remarkable
for the openings, connecting the nave,
transepts, and choir, made in the walls
that close in the square at the cross-
ing. A fine view of the Christiania
vaUey and of the N. and E. suburbs,
now incorporated with the city, will
be had from the outside of the semi-
circular apse. The keys can be had
in the small yellow house opposite.
(6) Vor Frelsers Kirke^ in the
form of a Greek cross, with a massive
square tower, consecrated 1697, and
Route 1. — Ghristiania.
13
restored 1849-fik6, by Chateauneuf,
The exterior is as little attractive as
the Puritanic interiors of most Nor-
wegian chs. of the same period.
The altar-piece (" Christ in the Gar-
den of Gethsemane ") is by E. Steinle
(Germ.), and the marble font by
Fladager,
(c) Trefoldigheds (Trinity) Kvrhe^
conspicuons in the N. part of Akers
St. (off Carl Johan st.), is a large and
heavy-looking Gothic edifice, with
a dome visible from afar. It was
buUt partly after designs by Chateau-
neufy and consecrated 1858. Its in-
terior forms an architecturally hand-
some but unattractive octagon, lit up
only by the altar-piece ("Baptism of
Christ *') by A, Tidemandy and by a
marble font (an angel holding a shell)
by Middelthun,
(d) The Johannes ch. in the S.,
and the Uranienborg oh. in the W.,
part of the city are elegant modem
structures. The tall steeple of the
latter is now one of the landmarks
for vessels approaching the harbour.
(e) The Anglican ch. (St. Ed-
mund's) is in Mdller st., a continua-
tion of Eongens St., to the N. of Carl
Johan St. On the way to it, along
the W. end of the Great Market
(with statue of Christian IV.), will
be passed the large police-offices that
stand on a terrace overlooking the
Nytorv (New Market place). Service,
Sun. 11 A.M., and also in the evening.
(See notices at hotels.) Keys always
available in comer shop immediately
beyond the oh.
Visitors will not fail to be pleased
with the simple elegance of this small
but adequate Gothic edifice, which
was built in the winter of 1883-84,
opened June 1884, but fully conse-
crated (after extinction of all debt) only
in 1890. The interior, with pews and
seats for 200, has been made strikingly
bright and pretty by its harmonious
proportions, varnished-pine woodwork
of Norwegian design, high-pointed
arch roof, and quaint gargoyles, from
which the gas chandeliers are sus-
pended. The stained windows (by
Jones & Willis of London) are all
commemorative, -and presented by
members and friends of the congrega-
tion, the resident number of which is
about 100. By the exertions of these,
subscriptions in small amounts were
raised to defray the cost of the build-
ing and the site (about 25002.) The
ch. finances are managed by a com-
mittee, of which the British Con-
sul-General is chairman and the
United States Consul a member, both
ex officio. In order to meet the annual
expenditure, including the stipend of
the resident chaplain, the committee
are greatly dependent, not only on
the offertories, but also on the dona-
tionSf which they earnestly solicit
from travellers, American as well as
British. It is hoped that the ch. col-
leci/ion-boxes in the hotels will not
he neglected.
(/) St. Olafs (Rom. Cath.) ch.
stands at the head of Akers st., N.
of Trinity ch. Erected in red-brick
and Gothic style, 1853. Services:
Sun., matins 8 A.if. ; high mass and
sermon 10 a.m.
8. Public Edifices, Insti-
tutions, &o.
(a) Storthings - Bygning (Parlia-
ment House). This handsome but
peculiar semi-Byzantine and partly
Komanesque building, completed in
1866 from designs by Langlet (a
Swedish architect), occupies a promi-
nent position fronting the Avenue
(Siudenterlunden), with a terrace
flanked by 2 lions (by Borck). The
interior is worth visiting (admission
when the Storthing is not in session,
by application to the porter at the
S. side door ; fee J to 1 kr.) The first
fioor of the semicircular W. front
{Storthings sal) forms the chamber
in which the General Assembly meets
(from Feb. to June). It can ac-
commodate about 150 deputies and
an audience of 200-300 in galleries.
The Odelsthing (see Introduction:
"Government, &c.*') also meets in
this hall, in which (over the throne)
will be seen a large picture by Oscar
14
Route I. — To Gh/ristiama by Sea.
TTer^ekzfkiirepreaenting the first deli-
beration over the existing Norwegian
constitution. The members' seats
are occupied in alphabetical order,
according to the constituencies they
represent, the names of which are
engraved on brass plates. The Lag-
thing chamber is smaller, but hand-
somely fitted, as are also the library
and a couple of other apartments.
The Archives (Riksarkivet) (entered
from £. side) contain rich materials
for the history of Norway (chiefly
1600-1814) and the MUnchen Collec-
tion of charters, &c.
In the Averme facing the W. front
of this edifice is a Statue raised
(1881) to the national poet, Henrik
Wergeland,
(b) AkershuB Castle. This fortress
stands at the S. end of the promon-
tory between the 2 harbours, and
is worth visiting, if only for the
lovely view from its ramparts, planted
with limes (not far from the Victoria
Hotel), of the castle built on its site
at the end of the 13th cent. Oiily
some fragments of the foundations
are left. It was besieged by Duke
Eric of Sweden in 1310. Between
1356-80 the works were extended by
Haakon YI. and again strengthened
in the 16th and 18th cents. Un-
successful siege was laid to it by
Christian II. of Denmark (1531-32)
and by the Swedes in 1567 and 1716.
On the latter occasion Charles XU.
bombarded it from a meadow visible
on the top of Egeberg Hill and called
SvenskeSletten {Swedish AelA), Until
about 1740 Akershus was the royal
sesidence in Norway, and proclama-
tion of successive sovereigns was
made here from 1548 to 1661. In
Danish times the National Assembly
met in a chamber of the castle. Its
present form dates from the reign of
the founder of the modern capital,
altiiough much altered by levelling
since 1815. Within its walls is the
Arsenalt with an armoury {Artillery
Musemn), which is shown to visitors
by a custodian (small fee), by per-
mission of the Master of the Ord-
nance, procurable at his office, within
the fortress. A few muskets and
swords will be pointed out as relics
of the Scottish expedition in -1612 (see
" Hist. Notice " and Rte. 12). The
usual display of arms and banners is
not of the same interest. Among
other objects in its courtyard are
2 guns presented in 1570 by the
Elector of Saxony to Duke Adolf of
Holstein, in acknowledgment of as-
sistance rendered.
Approached over a bridge panning
a moat and through a guarded gate-
way, are the Qa/rriion ch. with the
old prisons below it, the Cowoict
Prison (in which the more severe
sentences of hard labour are worked
out), and a small tower (on the S.
side) that houses the Norwegian
regalia and important national re-
cords, and some articles of dress
worn by sovereigns of the reigning
dynasty.
(c) The New Hospital (Bigshos-
pital)i W. of the Trinity ch., is well
worthy of inspection by medical
men. Composed of isolated blocks,
on the same principle as St. Thomas's
Hospital, London, it is a splendid
specimen of the newest development
of medical science in that direction.
There are altogether 400 beds, about
three-quarters of which are filled by
patients unable to pay for medical
aid or entitled as citizens to accom-
modation within its walls. Families
generally subscribe annually for the
right of sending a servant for treat-
ment ; for in the absence of such pre-
caution the law requires them to
defray the medical expenses of a
domestic for the period of 1 month.
In case of need travellers can obtain
a bed (in a separate room) for 7 kr.
per day, medical attendance included.
The charge per diem in a general
ward is 1.80 kr. Similar excellent
accommodation is also generally
available at the Diaconnesse Hospital^
near the Bom. Cath. ch. The
Bigshosjntal is supported princi-
pally by the State and the munici-
pality. Admission on application
to one of the resident medical
officers.
•a
'iom
•5^
\ b
|cli
1 so
bri
. lai
ek
:a.
ir
Route 1. — ChristianMi.
15
[Obs.— The numberless other medical and
charitable establishments, asylums, Ac, will
be inquired for looaUjr by traveUers Interested
in them, and descnbed by the respective
ofllcers in charge.]
{d) The Steam-Kitchen {Damp-
kjGkken), corner of Torv st. (run-
ning out of that in which the Angli-
can ch. is situated). This admirable
institution should certainly be visited
during the dinner-hours (12^).
Founded by a company in 1857, witii
capital subsequently enlarged to about
5200Z., its purpose is to supply per-
sons of small means with a good,
wholesome dinner at a low price —
3B d. (about ^d,) and 47 5. (a
fraction over 6<2.), the latter rate in-
cluding an extra dish. The food is
so excellent and inviting that many
a visitor takes his seat in one of the
bright and roomy halls, among the
labouring-men, oabdrivers, office-
clerks, ^op-girls, and governesses,
who mingle at the scrupcdously clean
table in democratic equality. Fami-
lies in poor circumstances send for
their meals or" portions," the charge
in such a case being only 28 and 42 6.
(about Sid,'-5\d.) Between 1884-
1888, the daily number of meals
supplied was 1856. In 1890, this
had increased to 2260. One of the
satisfactory, and almost exceptional,
features of the institution is, that it
now actually yields 6 per cent, to
the shareholders, thanks to a sub-
sidiary income derived from the sale,
in a shop alongside, of forced meat,
sausages, fruit syrups, &o, A boiler
(25 h.p.) supplies the necessary steam
for the Kitchen and laundry, for the
heating of the rooms, and the work-
ing of tiie sausage-machines, &c. An
annual report (in English) is sup-
plied on application at the office.
(e) Summary of other Public
BuUdmgs.
The Post and Telegraph Offices
form the corner of Oarl Johan and
Kirke sts. The Bazaar (princi-
pally butchers* shops) and the Fire-
brigade stat. are almost opposite.
At the end of Carl Johan st. is the
Central (£.) Bly. Stat, for Sweden
and Trondhjem, the Western Ely.
Stat, being at the head of Pepervik
bay, S. of the main thoroughfare. In
the same street as the Victoria Hotel
is the mean-looking Government
House {8tiftsgaard)f the official resi-
dence of the prime minister. On the
way to Akershus Castle is passed the
old Theatre^ to be replaced by one
now in construction in the Studenter-
lunden, off Carl Johan st.
The Ba/nk ofNortvay and the War
Offices are in the vicinity of the castle
and arsenal.
At the back of the Storthing will
be seen the imposing new Free-
masons' Hall, In Dronningen st. is
an old building in which the Finance
and Customs Departments are lo-
cated ; the Home Offi^ce^ occupying a
building in Carl Johan st., and the
Public Works Department^ and other
administrative branches, flats on
Victoria Terrace. The unpretending-
looking Exchange and the Fish
MarkU, are to the rt. of the quay at
which the Hull strs. are moored.
9. Walks, Drives, <fto.
A. Travellers are always recom-
mended to make St. Hanshaogen (St.
John's HUl) the object of their first
walk, a distance of about 1} m. in a
N.W. direction from the great market
sq. This prettily laid-out eminence
(280 ft. above the sea) is the site of
the reservoir of the city waterworks
(the water being supplied from the
lake system of the neighbouring dis-
trict of Nordm>a/rken)t and affords a
beautiful panoramic view of Christi-
ania and its environs.
[It may be included in a drive to Holmen-
kollen and Frognertceter; See 0.]
B. Oscarshall and Bygdo (Lade-
gawrdsG) penin. If walking, the city
is left by the Dramm^ns-vei (road),
skirting the palace park on the rt.
and passing through part of tie most
fashionable, or W. end, quartier,
adorned with many handsome houses
and villas, having pretty gardens in
front. Close to Skarpsno rly. stat.
16
Route 1. — To Chriatiania by Sea.
(less than 1 m. from the Grand Hotel)
is a ferry across the Frognerkilen
creek to BygdD (about 7 m.: 10 6.)
Nearly ^ an hr. more would be con-
sumed by keeping to the road and
turning to the 1. along the tongue of
land which prevents Bygdb from
being called an island.
[Obs. — OsearshdU may be reached more
quickly by str. from Pipervik quay (hourly
between 7 and 9 A.H., and from 1.30 to
9.30 P.M. ; 20 and 10 b. to FrederUttborg
or Bygdff). The direct sfcr. to OscarthaU
(BygdS) takes only 15 m., while from Fre-
deriktborg (where there is a second-rate
TiYoli) the walk, keeping to the rt., is about
^ hr. Failing a conyeuient str., a boat can
be engaged at the same quay for 3 kr. there
and back. To those who prefer to drive the
whole way and visit the places here described
in a carriage, the expense will be about 6-8 kr.
and the time occupied 2 to 3 hrs., if the
round of the penin. be made.]
History op Btqd6.— Anciently known as
"Bygdey" (or the "cultivated island *'), the
name first occurs in a charter of 1306, when
Haakon Y . informed the bishops and nobility
of his kingdom assembled at Bergen that he
had received the dowry (3000 marks of fine
silver) of his queen, Euphemia, daughter of
Yitslaf, prince of BUgen (in the Baltic), and,
with their concurrence, settled "Bygdey,
near Oslo," upon her. She died in 1312,
before her husband, and the royal demesne
was inherited by her daughter Ingeborg,
who married, first, Duke Eric Magnusson of
Sweden, and afterwards Eiiut Pors, a Banish
baron, subsequently created Duke of Halland
and Sams<$e. Moved, however, by piety, she
granted, in 1362, Bygd<5 and several islands
near Oslo to the monastery of the Holy Virgin
and St. Edmund on Hovedif (island), on condi-
tion of the abbot saying masses, on a new altar
to be then built for the commemoration of her-
self and her relatives, the monks to be requited
with a tub of ale and the altar enriched by a
mark of silver and a wax-taper on each anni-
versary of her death. All the possessions of
the monastery (for the description of which
see ** Excursions ")having been confiscated at
the Reformation, BjgOUd reverted, with other
monastic property, to the Crown, and was
henceforth called " LadegaardsSen^* after the
Ladegaardf or home-farm, at Oslo, that had
equally bdonged to " the Holy Virgin and
St. Edmund."
OscarBhall is a chdteau de plai-
sance (not used as a dwelling), erected
by King Oscar I. in 1852, after
designs (English -Gothic) by Nebe-
long. It occupies a commanding
position (80 ft. above the sea), and
the summit of its white polygon
tower (160 ft.) affords a view of
which the charm is recorded by every
traveller who has had recourse to
the printing-press. A visit to it is in
reality indispensable. Admission on
application to the gardener in a con-
tiguous building (fee, ^ to 1 kr.)
Visitors are conducted first to the
Gothic dining-room in a smaller semi-
detached edifice. Its attraction con-
sists in the 6 Norwegian landscapes
by J, Frich (those of the Ea/ungiuv
precipice in Telemarken, the Eoms-
dalshomy and the Norangsfjord being
the most striking), but chiefly in the
10 celebrated pictures by^. Ttdeniandj
illustrating Norwegian peasant life
" from cradle to grave." Being hung
over the landscapes, immediately
under the ceiling, they can be viewed
with satisfaction only on a bright day.
In the main building, the oak-
panelled Drawing -roomy on the
ground floor, contains statues in
zinc (on consoles) of the 4 greatest
kings of ancient Norway, by
Michelsen, a pupil of Thorwaldsen ;
while the uppermost frieze is de-
corated with zinc medallions, in high
relief, of the most remarkable war-
riors, statesmen, and prelates of Nor-
way in the middle ages (by Batch) . A
room on the first floor has 9 basrelief s
of Fridthjof 's Saga, in marble (Borch),
and 4 landscapes (localities connec-
ted with the same saga) by Qxide,
The apartments above are diminu-
tive museums of Norwegian art, in
many of its varieties. In a small
closet are shown the Coronation
Robes, &c., of the reigning dynasty.
A winding staircase (71 steps) leads
to the roof of the tower, where
visitors will long tarry, although the
views from the crenellated battle-
ments will have previously arrested
their attention.
Within 5 min. drive is a gateway
of Scandinavian form (once the en-
trance to an artists' fair, at Chris -
tiania). It leads to 5 buildings set
up by King Oscar II. to perpetuate
the peculiar features of ancient Nor-
wegian architecture : *
* Will be opened by an attendant residing
in the immediate vicinity. Small fee. Open
on Sundays.
Route 1, — Oscarshatl; Holmenhotlen ; FrognerscBier. 17
1. The Ool Chnreh {Stav kirket or
ch. built of timbera raised on end,
not laid horizontally). It stood at
Gol, in Hallingdal, until 1884, when,
being too small for modern require-
ments, it was pulled down and re-
moved to its present site at the cost
of the king, who purchased it with
the object of preserving so remarkable
a specimen of 12th or 18th cent, eccles.
architecture. The date is thus fixed
from the beautiful carvings (partly
restored) within the S. porch. In
front of the altar is noticeable an
ancient painting on panel, represent-
ing the Saviour within an oval centre,
and the 12 Apostles in groups of 3 on
either side. Equally curious is the
"Bride's seat " (fromHitterdal), with
its interlaced ornamentation and its
carvings of grotesque animals.
2. The Hovedstaen, or house of a
peasant proprietor, built in 1788 and
presented to the king in 1881, when
it was removed from Lilleherred, in
Telemarken, and furnished in con-
temporaneous style.
3. The Stabar, or " Store-house,"
also comes from Telemarken, and,
judging from an inscription on the
hinges of the door, it is about 140
yrs. old. The carving of the door-
way, traditionally ascribed to the
original proprietor of the building,
is in the best style of ancient
Norwegian art.
4. The EbgBtue, or *• Smoke-hut,"
a rare and very ancient form of
dwelling still found in parts of Russia
as a survival of the primaBval hut or
the tent of wandering tribes, with an
opening in the roof for the egress
of smoke and the ingress of Hght.
This is from Sffitersdalen.
6. The Loft, or "Barn," is from
Gudbrandsdalen and of considerable
age. This drive or walk should be
continued to BygcU) SQhad (sea-
bathing establishment), at the S.W.
extremity of the penin. A restaurant
(and a band) close by. Special
strs. to and from Ghristiania fre-
quent. Charge for a bath 25 o.
Pretty woodland scenery and nume-
rous villas will be seen on a drive
{Norway— yi. 92.]
round the penin. On a small emi-
nence close to Osoarshall wiU be seen
a granite pedestal holding the Btist
of Count Herman WedeUJa/rlsherg,
an eminent Norwegian statesman,
who warmly advocated the union
with Sweden. It was set up by King
Carl Johan (Bemadotte). Close to
the road, on the S.W. side of Bygdo,
is another simple Monument in the
form of an iron column, erected in
1814 by King Christian Frederick of
Denmark and Norway to the memory
of Prince Christian Augustus, who
governed and defended Norway at
the head of a special commission
(1807-1809). A pretty little wooden
Ch, will be passed at about the centre
of the penin. Small strs. touch at
Huki its S. point.
C. Holmenkollen and Frogner-
ssBter. — No traveller should fail to
drive (or, if robust, to walk) to these
delightful spots, N.W. of the city,
and affording in clear weather a
splendid prospect of the country and
the fjord for many miles around, as
well as a distant view of snow-capped
mtns. Arrangements can, if time
be an object, be made by telephone
for luncheon or dinner at
1. Holmenkollen Sanatorium and
Tourist Hotel, a drive of about If hr.
back. Carriage and pair, 10 kr.
(12 kr. if by way of FrognerssBter) ;
1 horse conveyance, 6 kr., or a car-
riole (from Bennett) cheaper. Dil.
service 3 times a day (1 kr. each).
This extensive establishment, com-
posed of several large wooden build-
ings (including a " Sport-house," for
cyclists in summer, and snow-shoe
runners, skaters, and tobogganers in
winter), all in Norwegian style with
corresponding internal decorations
and arrangements, stands nearly at
the summit of a hill, about 1000 ft.
above the sea-level. The dining-
room in the main structure is attrac-
tive, not only on account of the ex-
cellent viands provided (wine and ale,
but no spirits) at a moderate charge
(2 kr. for dinner — boarders, about
8Z. 7«. per month), but also owing to
18
Route 1. — To Christiama hy Sea.
the view from its windows, and the
elegant, rustic, and national character
of its adornments. In the upper
floor are bed and sitting rooms, with
balconies affording bewitching views.
The walls of the drawing-room (below)
have been decorated by Skrainstad,
the noted Norwegian landscape
painter ; and many objects of Scan-
dinavian art are gradually being
added to the other fascinations of
this resort, which is as charming in
winter as it is in summer.
The large building beyond the
hotel is the Sanatorium^ open all
the year round, under the superin-
tendence of Dr. J. C. Holniy to whom
is due much of the initiative in con-
nection with the establishments at
Holmenkollen. Its height above the
sea gives it the advantage of a dry
atmosphere, rendered still more
healthy and invigorating by the ex-
halations of thick pine-woods ; and
usually, when the city is enveloped
in fog (which in winter is assuming
more and more a London character,
from the increasing use of coal fuel),
Holmenkollen basks in sunshine. Its
hygienic properties are more es-
pecially favourable in cases of con-
valescence, nervousness, sleeplessness,
colds, and their after-effects, bron-
chitis, asthma, ajid heart-affections.
(Further information obtainable from
Dr. Holm, Christiania.)
In a large separate building is the
Cafij where an hour can well be
spent in enjoyment of the bracing
and pure air and the landscape that
opens through and over the forest in
front. Coffee can also be taken at
the
Peisestue (" Hearth-hut ") erected
in old Norwegian style at the head of
a pretty artificial lake, not more than
10 min. walk from the hotel. Above
the latter (15 to 20 min. walk) is also a
wooden scaffolding, from the summit
of which a fine extensive view is ob-
tained. Another footpath leads to
Voxenkollen (about 1 hr. walk),
whence the mtns. mentioned below
are discernible. This walk can be
continued to
2. Frognereseter, connected with
Holmenkollen by a splendid road
opened in 1890 by the king and the
Emperor Wilhehn II., after the latter
of whom it has been named. In
1889 this fine property, once the
only show-place in the neighbour-
hood of Christiania, was purchased
by the municipality from the heirs
of the late Mr. Thos. Heftye, the
well-known banker, to whose memory
a granite ObeUsk was erected (1887)
in the vicinity. The main Chdlet is
1380 ft. above the sea-level, the ap-
proximate distance to it from the
city being 9^ kil. It has been con-
verted into a museum, illustrative of
old Norwegian domestic life and its
surroundings. In one of the rustic
bunks the late Prince Imperial of
France passed a night. Additions
vbeing made year by year to the
specimens of household utensils,
furniture, &c., visitors must consult
the catalogue sold on the spot at
26 6. The view from the balcony
is magnificent. Contiguous to the
ch&let are — a Peasant's cottage from
Hallingdal, a Rdgstue and a large
new Peisettuet in which milk, coffee,
tea, sandwiches, (&c., are served.
About i an hr. walk will bring
the visitor to the Tryvandshoiden
(1800 ft.), on which is a high, solid
Tower of wooden framework. This
affords a view superior in extent to
that which has been made available
at HolmenkoUen, a considerable part
of S. Norway being exposed to the
eye and the field-glass. On the S.
the view extends to the Kattegat ; on
the E. towards the boundary of
Sweden ; on the N. it ranges over
the extensive forest tracts of Nord-
marken (see description farther on)
and its principal elevations, such as
Opkuven and Kikut; while to the
W. stand out prominently the snow-
tipped fjelds of Hallingdal (the Nore-
fjeldt 4950 ft.) and of Telemarken
{Oausta, 6170 ft.), about 128 kil. dis-
tant. Scarcely less interesting is the
glimpse of the city below, skirted by
green fields and pine- woods, and of the
blue waters of the Christiania fjord,
Route 1. — Swnd/volden.
19
dotted with innumerable, bright-look-
ing islets.
Halfway between Holmenkollen
and FrognerssBter is another fine
Hotel, from which a beautiful road
branches off to the 1. to YokienkoUen
(1500 ft.), whence from a staging is a
magnificent view of Siyrkedalen,
Bogstad/oand^ the Norefjeld and Li-
fjeld {Gausta)j &c., with a foreground
of yast forests.
D. Sundvoldeii {Bmgerike),¥^ —
This drive may be the object of an
excursion from Christiania by those
who have a day or two to spare, or
it may enter into the general plan
of a journey to Bergen over the Fille-
fjeld. Travellers who have not the
leisure to go far afield should certainly
take this drive, which is easily ac-
complished in a day, the distance to
Sundvolden and back being about
90 kil. A stay of some days is very
enjoyable. Before other parts of
Norway were more accessible, the
Ringerike excursion was unavoidable,
as affording with facility an excellent
impression of the beauties of Nor-
wegian lake and woodland scenery.
A carriage and pair can be hired
there and back for about 40 kr., and
a carriole for 15 kr. ; or a vehicle
(carriage, carriole, <&c.) can be ordered
by telephone to await a train at Sand-
viken, 14 kil. from Christiania (see
Rte. 4).
From Sandviken rly. stat. the
road branches off, with a gradual as-
cent to the rt., from the Drammen
highway along the Sandvik r., and
attains an altitude of nearly 1100 ft.,
after which it runs through the
Krokskogy a pine-forest of much
beauty. The pretty rounded tops of
Kolsaas (1250 ft.) rise to the rt. from
a range of hills of porphyry. A
glimpse of the lovely HoUfjord
branch of the picturesque Tyrifjord
is obtained before beginning the de-
scent from the Erokskog plateau, the
road running down in long curves
until it joins the Svangstrands-vei
(rd.), the highway from Drammen.
Soon the Skaret, or "Gate," hewn
out of the rock, opens out a vista
equal perhaps in beauty to that
afforded by the **Baidar Gate" or
"Pass of Phoros" in the Crimea,
lake scenery of a somewhat sombre
character replacing the wide, blue
expanse of tiie Black Sea. A seat
with benches is provided — Princess
(now Queen) Sophie's view — as in
the Crimea, for a quiet enjoyment
of the scene. A short halt will
next be made at HumUdal (16 kil.
from Sandviken ; pay for 22 kil. if
posting). Good dinner procurable! at
this comfortable stat., which lies
high above the HoUfjord, Here also
the panorama is moet pleasing, one
of the most striking features in it,
on the K., being the summits of
the Norefjeldy snow-dad in June, and
sometimes in July.
IFishing.—TheTe is no lack of large salmo
ferox in this part of the great lake, and a
oonple of days may well be spent by the
angler at Humledal in trying his luck in hot,
but not too calm, weather, when the fish rise
from their great depths. Minnow best.]
Descending by a splendid road cut
in the face of the rock with numerous
zigzags, the traveller is whirled down
to the E. shore of the Tyrifjord^ a
lake (230 ft. above sea-level) of
greater breadth than most of the
other inland waters of Norway, for
it is IB kil. wide at its centre. The
country around, especially on the N.
and W., is rightly classed amongst
the most charming and fruitful, and
the best cultivated, regions in the
kingdom. On the 1. the lake will be
seen dotted with pretty islands ( UWen,
Qjeitden, Frognden, SkudStoroen), and
arrested in its broad expansion north-
wards by the Holelandet penin., on
the S. point of which stands the
old chapel of B&nsncBS. The objec-
tive point is then reached at Sund-
volden (13 kil. ; if posting, pay for 15
kil. in reverse direction).
IFUhing, — ^Perch plentiful in immediate
vicinity, as well as«it (gwiniadjOr fresh-water
herring), which are persistently served to th*
uninitiated as " grayling." These fish, rery
good for the table, aflford excellent sport In
hot weather, when they will rise to a white-
bodied fly with red wings. They run to a
size of 2 lbs. and more.]
c 2
20
Route 1. — To Christiania by Sea.
[EXOUBSION (2| BBS.) TO EbOK-
KliEYEN AND THE ** KiNG'S ViEW." —
Saddle-horses procurable (2.40 kr.),
but visitors generally walk (I5 hr.) by
a rough but romantio path through
a gorge, first (in } hr.) to Klevstue,
at the top of the Erokkleven (cliff).
Sleeping accommodation, if desired,
and good dinner at an Inn, where
guides are also procurable, although
white crosses painted on the trees
indicate sufficiently the path that
leads (20-80 min.) to the Kongen^s
Udaigt, or "King's View" (1455 ft.
above the sea and 1243 ft. above the
fjord). In clear weather the panorama
(somewhat of a bird's-eye view) is
superb. Water, fields, woods, and
mtns. diversify the wondrous pro-
spect, the background in the N.W.
and W. being formed by the mtns.
of Telemarken and Hallingdal. The
GaiMtaj the Norefjeld^ and some-
times even the Hallingskarv (about
6400 ft.) are visible, as well as the
Jonslinut (2978 ft.), near Eongsberg.
Inferior in beauty is the view from
iheDronningen's Udsigt, or "Queen's
View," to which the visitor will be
recommended at the Klevstue inn,
on account of its proximity (5 min.
descent). ]
Alternative Eoutes back to
Ghbistiania.
1. A str. plies between Sund-
volden and Skjeerdalen rly. stat. on
the Christiania-Drammenline (Rte.4).
(Consult time-tables.)
2. Return vid Honefos. Time per-
mitting, a drive to Honefos and back
will be found very enjoyable, but it is
frequently undertaken as a means of
returning to the city by a different
route. Carrioles, &c., have to be
fetched from Vik stat. (3 kil. beyond
Sundvolden ; pay for 17 kil. : 3.23
kr. per horse, with postboy). If re-
turning to Sundvolden, engage the
carriole for the whole way, without
stopping at Vik. (Total of posting,
2.85 kr. per horse, Ac.)
Passing over the Kroksund hj a
long bridge connecting the Tyrif jord
with the Stensfjord, the traveller is
soon driven past Vik and the Sten-
gaa/rd (farm), close to which are the
ruins of an old chapel. To the rt. of
the flat road (Stensgaden) then taken
wiU be seen the Halfdans-hatcgen
(tumulus) supposed to contain some
of the remains of Half dan the Black
(king of a S. part of Norway, 9th
cent.) A bye-road then branches
off (1.) to Hole ch., soon after which
Norderkov oh. and manse are passed.
On application at the latter, travel-
lers win be allowed to see the Sven-
skettie (Swedes' room), the scene of
the following episode :
In 1716, whilst bedeging Akershus Oastle
COhristiania), Charles XII. sent 600 dragoons
to plunder the Kongsbergsilyer-mines. They
took up their quarters at the manse and in
adjacent buildings, and, the pastor being ill
in bed, his wife, Anna Kolbjbrnsen, received
the Swedes, and, while supplying them with
food and drink, contrived to send a message
to an officer in command of a small Nor-
wegian force not very far off, and which pro-
ceeded to capture or kill the invaders almost
to a man.
The embalmed remains of Anna
Kolbjornsen are preserved in the
vault, which is shown.
Honen farm and the " Middle
School " house of the Ringerike dis-
trict will be next passed, the road
diverging to the 1. under the Tanherg,
affording a view of Lake Jueren and
the BUfjeld (4494 ft.) The SUyr-elv
and the 3 branches of the Hone-
fos (falls) being crossed, the traveller
arrives at
Honefos. (See Rte. 7.)
E. Drive (or FaZA;) to Egeberg Hill,
th/roughOnlo. — Tramcars run from the
Great Market-place in about \ hr. to
St Halva/rd^s Plods, in the suburb of
OalOi the original site of the city, and
worthy on that account of cursory
inspection. After reaching the large
Prison, they turn to the rt., and, after
crossing the small Akers r., pass
through the QrGnland suburb, in
which will be noticed the new Ch. and
Sckool-hotise. In a few minutes more
the terminus of the cars is reached
in St. Halvard's Plads, on which
stands the modern Episcopal Palace
Route 1. — Oslo.
21
{Bispegaard)f of no architectural
interest, although the remains of an
old Dominican monastery were incor-
porated with it (1883).
[Carriages and pedestrians get to
this point by bearing N. from the
same market-place, and skirting the
rly. stat. and the harbour quays until
they get to Bispegade and the Epis-
copal Palace.]
Hence a street leads (S.) to the
ancient Oslo (St, Ma/ry^s) ch., and to
the remains of the original Episcopal
Palace (Ladegaard)^ at the comer
of Bispe st. In this residence
James VI. of Scotland was married
to Anne, sister of Christian lY. of
Denmark.
The princess left Copenhagen (Sept. 6,
1689) for Scotland, with a convoy of 12 war-
ships well equipped; but contrary winds,
stormy weather, and the leaking of the
royal flagship, compelled her, with 3 ships
of the squadron, to make for the fjord that
led to Oslo, then the capital of Norway,
which was reached only on Oct. 25. Here she
was accommodated, togeth^ with her numer-
ous retinue, in the old Bom. Gath. Episco-
pal Palace, the Earl Mareschal Keith, King
James* ambassador, being lodged in a neigh-
bouring house. When on the point of re-
turning to Denmark, after a stay of 6 days,
Princess Anne received the gratifying intel-
ligence that King James, in his anxiety and
gallant impatience, had sailed over to Nor-
way with a fleet of 5 vessels, from which he
landed at Tbnsberg, whence he travelled over-
land to Oslo, arriving there Nov. 19. The
marriage was celebrated Nov. 23, in the
principal room of the old BUpegaard^ decor-
ated for the purpose with costly tapestry,
2 chairs of ^ate, covered with crimson
damask, being placed at the upper end of it,
on a red carpet, for the royal pair. Nor-
wegian annals describe the king as being
tall, but thin, and dressed in a red velvet
doublet, studded with gold coins, and a black
velvet mantlet lined with sable. His chap-
lain, David Lindsay, performed the ceremony,
which included an oration In French, and
lasted an hour. After a stay of about a
month at Oslo, the king and queen left in
sledges, by way of Swedea, for Denmark,
where they passed the winter, reaching
Leith only on Mayl, 1590.
Oslo Churchy next to this interest-
ing building, has been much modern-
ised. Connected architecturally with
it since the Bef ormation is an Asylum
for aged people^ some parts of which
exhibit traces of the old Franciscan
monastery, which it absorbed. At
the back of it again is the local
Lunatic asylum, Haakon V. (1299-
1319), who was the first to establish
the royal residence at Oslo, rebuilt
the (11th cent.) ch. of St. Mary in
the immediate vicinity, and made
it a place of sepulture for the royal
line. It fell into ruins after the Be-
formation. Prince William of Biigen,
the maternal grandfather of Euphe-
mia, consort of Haakon, was buried
in it (1302), and subsequently
Haakon V. and Euphemia were both
entombed there; also Haakon VI.
(1380), and many other members of
the old royal house.
In theOem^^^r^ opposite the edifices
aboye described is buried Mr. Brad-
shaw, the founder of the Eailwa/y
Quide.
Continuing the driye or walk past
Oslo ch., the new road to Egeberg Hill
is soon reached, and a pretty glimpse
at once obtained over the entire city.
At the first bend, the view becomes
charming, the fjord, the city, and its
pleasant environs being opened out.
Beyond, it rises in gentle curves
through woodland of bewitching
effect, past a small fenced-in basin,
erected by the municipality at the
junction of the old road to Ca/rlshorg,
Views of the fjord, only occasionally
obstructed by trees, are again ob-
tained, and at last, on reaching the
parallel of Bsekkelaget rly. stat. (on
the Liabro rd. — see Bte. 2) below,
the panorama of the fjord and of the
western part of Christiania becomes
so grand and entrancing that travel-
lers must not, without later regret,
fail to take the trouble of observing
it. Here end the Jomfrubraaten
woods, and the top of the Egeberg
Hill is reached at an altitude of about
450 ft. The new road terminates at
BemhuSt a few hundred yards N. of
a private residence named Castellett
whence Nordstrand rly. stat. and
hotel (Bte. 2) can be reached on foot
I in 10 or 12 min., the distance to
BcBkkelaget stat., nearer to the city,
I being, however, only a few min. far-
. ther if »ought from the beginning
' of the plateau.
22
Route 1. — To Christiania hy Sea.
[Small sirs, ply to these stats, from
the Custom-house floating piers,
close to the Central rly. stat.]
F. Drive to Sarabraaten (11 kil.) —
This will occupy 4 hrs. and is well
worth undertaking, although many
other good yiews are obtainable E. of
the city — ^from dstre Aker^a ch., and
from the old Trcmdhjem rd. by which
Sinseny the mansion of the Sohou
family, and a large farm called lAn-
dsrudj are reached. From the oh. just
mentioned the road turns to the L to
Bryn rly. stat. (frequent trains), and
thence through a woodland over a
brook until ti^e small OsteMJGvand
(la^e) is reached. After some gentle
ascents and descents, partly through
woods, a bridge spans the Noklevand
(lake>, and the road winds up to
Sarabraaten, where milk and lemon-
ade can be obtained at a farm. The
view is still more splendid from
Haukaasen (nearly 1100 ft.), about ^
hr. walk. The snow-capped Oausta
in Telemarken is visible.
A short distance N.E. of the
Trondhjem rd. are the Botanical
Qa/rdens, tastefully laid out and
affording a fine view. The collection
of indigenous plants is very good.
Open daily.
G. Drive or Walk to Grefsen Bad
(Hydropathic Sanatorium), 5 kil. N.
of city.
[DiL run frequently from the prin-
cipal market place.]
This establishment was founded in
1858 and continues to be fashionably
frequented. It lies 560 ft. above sea-
level, at the foot of Orefsen-aas
(bluff), 1195 ft. high, which shelters
it against N. winds. A beautiful
view is obtained here of the fertile
Christiania valley and of the pleasant
green islands by which this city is
encompassed on the W. A beauti-
fully laid-out park of pine-forest is one
of the great attractions of the place,
from which many pleasant and ro-
mantic excursions may also be made.
NeiTOTU oomplaintB, rheumatism, chronic
catarrhs, sleeplessuess, &<f, are successfully
treated. Season from June 1 to Aug. 31.
Rooms, 1 to 3 kr. ; board, 3.20 kr., or 15 kr.
per week. Reduction for families. Medicsd
and other charges from 23 kr. to 16 kr. per
week, according to length of stay. Highly
recommended for a fortnight's repose, or for
a period of conralesoence.
H. Walk thnmgh Nordmarkeii. —
Inveterate pedestrians and lovers
of wild, sylvan, and mountainous
scenery (peaks 2000 to 3000 ft.) will
be delighted with the exploration of
this charming tract of country, so
dose to the city, and 80 Ml. in length
by 20 to 40 kil. in breadth, with
numerous small lakes at an elevation
of 1150 to 1800 ft. It is approach-
able from 2 sides : on the E. from
the Ma/ridalsvandt a lake (500 ft.) N.
of Christiania, which draws its water-
supply from it ; and on the W. from
Bogsiad and SOrkedaL No roads in-
tersect it, and the explorer has there-
fore to find his way by footpaths,
with the aid of a detailed map or of
a local guide. At 2 or 3 farms a
night's lodging may be obtained,
the few remaining habitations being
occupied by lumbermen and other
labourers.
Xaridalen is about 8 kil. N.E.
of the city by an excellent road.
Carriages cannot proceed farther
than the farm of MaridaUhammer
(13 kil.), where the Aker river takes
its rise. At Ewkehy, to the rt., are
seen the ruins of the old St, Mary*s
ch. Skars powder-ndlls are in the
vicinity. The first lake reached in
Nordmarken is the SkJcBrsjOen^ which
is ruthlessly poached for trout by
mill-hands from the factories in the
Aker valley. Kamphaug gaard, on
a considerable eminence, will be
reached thence by following the tele-
phone-wire. A path leads N. of the
farm to BjOmhott, and to a dam from
which the long BjdmsH lake is visible,
with Kikut mtn. (1025 ft.) in the
background. From Bonna farm
below (to be reached also by boat
from the Bjdmsd dam) the mtn.
can be ascended. A walk of about
1^ hr. due W. from Bonna will
bring the tourist to FylUngen lake,
wh^nc^ ^ pretty path lei^ds in i^l^Qut
Route 1. — Nordmva/rken s Hovedoen.
23
3 hrs. to SvartorscBter, Thence, walk-
ing becomes again difficult as far as
Aamott whence, after crossing a
stream, the SsBrkedals rd. (1 hr.
walk from Bogstad) is gained on the
way back to Ghristiania. Hakloa
(22 kU. from the city) is another lake,
a little more than 1 hr. walk, with
a Farm connected by telephone with
the capital. A dStour may be made
hence to Sandungen lake (about 7 hrs.
walk either from Bonna or from
Maridalshammer). The farmhouses
on these 2 lakes are specially recom-
mended for good quarters. Permis-
sion to fish (trout) and to shoot over a
dog may be procured as a favour from
Baron H. Wedel- Jarlsberg, through a
banker or friend. The proprietor re-
serves the best lakes for members of
his family.
The other approach, from Bogstady
involves a drive of nearly 2 hrs.,
after which the forest is entered and
the track above sketched taken in a
reverse direction.
[More detailed information respect-
ing walking tours through Nord-
marken and adjacent districts will
be found in Dr. Yngvar Nielsen's
** Reisehaandbog over Norge." A
day and night can well be spent on
this excursion.]
I. Ezcnrsions by Water. — In-
numerable small strs. ply between
the city and adjacent islands on the
fjord. These will, however, not be
visited except for the purpose of
seeing friends in summer, when even
the least affluent residents whose busi-
ness occupations prevent them from
seeking health and recreation in higher
and more distant resorts, repair to sea-
side villas and watering-places, such
as Hank'd (Rte. 2), Holmestrand (Rte.
4), Sandefjord and Laurvik, &g,
(Rte. 4). But even without the
object of visiting these, pleasurable
trips can be taken up the Bundefjordy
from the head of which is a pleasant
drive to Dr'Ohak (Rte. 1), whence
there are frequent opportunities for
re£iching Ghristiania. Part of a day
pan agreeably be spent in taking the
str. that runs from Peperviken
quay to Sa/ndviken and Slebcmde,
whence frequent trains to the city
(see Rte. 4). Travellers interested in
Yacht and Bowing clubs will be
pleased with the progress made in
that direction by visiting the estab-
lishments close to the Western rly.
stat. Sailing boats are available at
the Custom-house quay, and par-
ticularly at the head of Peperv&en
bay, for the purpose either of sea-
fishmg, or of visiting Oscarshall or
some of the islands in the fjord.
British travellers should make a
point of rowing or sailing out to
Hovedoen, an island a short dis-
tance S. of Akershus castle, after
getting permission to that effect from
the Master of the Ordnance (imme-
diately obtained in the castle). Its
interest consists in the ruins of a
Monastery, built by Cistercian monks
from Eirkstead, Lincoln, in 1147,
and dedicated by them to the Virgin
Mary and St. Edmund, the king of
E. Anglia, whom the " Danes " put
to death by arrows for refusing to
abjure the Christian faith. Those
monks were the first to plant Chris-
tianity in the S. of Norway ; and, as a
matter of fact, the whole of Norway
was first Christianised by English
bishops and priests. The Anglican
ch. at Ghristiania has been named
after the martyred saint in comme-
moration of this origin of Christianity
in the land of the Vikings. At the
Reformation the monastery became
secularised, and, falling into decay,
its materials were used to repair the
castle, which faces it from the main-
land. The ruins have been carefully
excavated and preserved, and give an
excellent idea of the imposing cha-
racter of the building and of the
affluence of its owners when the
Bygdo penin. and much other land
was held by them.
J. EzeursionB by Sail. — Sa/nd-
viken, Askery Drammen, Kongsbergy
TQnsbergy Sandefjordy Laurviky and
many other places within easy reach,
can be visited by the Western Hne,
24 Route 2. — To GhrisUa/aia from Copenhagen.
while trips can be made to Moss^
Sarpsborg (the Falls of the Olom-
men), Frederikshald, and other in-
teresting places by the rly. that runs
to Sweden.
(For description and particulars,
consult some of the Boutes immedi-
ately following.)
Hn.
Id^ord. Originally a small shipping placd
known as Balden, it obtained under Friderick
IIL monioipal and other privil^^ea, as well as
its present name, as a reward for the sturdy
stand made by its citizens (1658-60) against
the Swedes. During the reign of that
monarch (1648-70), after the cession of Bohus
to Sweden, the frontier-fortress of Frederiks-
sten^ with its detached forts, Opldentdve^ Over-
bjergety and Stortaarnet^ was raised (1661-86)
on a contiguous perpendicular rock (376 ft.)
It is celebrated not only for the numerous
sieges it has stood, but as the place where
Charles XII. of Sweden was killed. Haying
failed in carrying Frederikshald when he
marched upon Christiania, in 1716, he devoted
nearly 2 yrs. to raising another army for the
conquest of Norway. Gleneral Armfelt, with
a division of 7000 men, in Sept. 1718, marched
through the mtns. to attadc Trondhjem,
but abandoned the attempt, and on the re-
treat nearly his whole force perished in a
snowstorm, which literally overwhelmed it.
Charles himself moved upon Frederikshald,
and directed the operations of the siege.
EOUTE 2.
TO OHBISTIANIA FBOM COPENHAGEN OB
GOTHENBURG, viA FBEDEBIKSHALD
AND SABFBBOBG.
(By rail.)
Dis- Fare
tance(lstcL)
Kil. Kr.
Copenhagen to Christiania 650 52.10 22
Gothenburg to Christiania 357 21.90 12
[Frequent strs. between Copenhagen, (Goth-
enburg, and Christiania. Time, in summer,
approximately, 23-25 and 13-15 hrs. Fares re-
spectively 28 kr. and 16-18 kr.
N.B. — See also Introduction.']
The train enters Norwegian terri-
tory at KomsjO stat. Travellers are
subjected to Customs examination ^
(no passports), 32 kil. farther, at
Frederikshald ^ (136 kil. from
Christiania). Buff. Pop. 12,000. Brit.
Vice- Consul,
HiSTORT.— The town lies prettily on both
sides of the Tista river, at its mouth in the
^ On the reverse way, luggage is examined
at Mon stat., fifth from Frederikshald. Tra-
vellers proceeding through the night to
Christiania can elect to have their luggage
searched on arrival. Swedish time, 18 min.
in advance of Norwegian, is kept from Mon,
on the way to Gothenburg or Copenhagen.
(N.B.— Best view from 1. side of carriage from
I'red^riksliald.)
TopoGBAPHY. — Many disastrous
fires resulted in the reconstruction
of the town, partly in brick, and a
considerable manufacturing industry
has since been developed in it, as
well as a trade in timber and paving-
stones. The best buildings are those
of the PuhUc schools. There are 2
Public gardensj in one of which is a
bust of Peder Colbjomsen, who, with
hiEiJbrother Hans, repelled the Swedish
attack in 1716. A granite Obelisk to
the brothers and their coadjutor,
Peder Normand, stands in the market-
place, close to the harbour. The chief
attraction is the Fortress, although
no longer of military importance. No
permission is required for inspecting
it, which can be done in an hour,
there and back. Near the spot (a
trench since levelled) where Charles
XII. fell (1718) the Swedish army
raised in 1860 a handsome pyramids^
Mormmentt of Gothic style, in cast-
iron. The inscription on it is to the
effect that "both in adversity and
prosperity he ruled his own destiny,
and, unable to flinch, could only fall.'*
Modem Scandinavian historians deny
that he was treacherously shot,
although there exists aji apparently
well-authenticated story of a French-
man, secretary to Charles XII., having
fled to one of the Bussian Baltic pro-
viiiQes, and of his dying there in ^e{^t
Route 2. — Frederikthald.
25
remorse, after eonf essing that he had
shot his royal master m the trenches
with a rifled musket, still preserved
in a German baronial mansion. The
exact spot where Charles XII. fell
was discovered in 1892, and is marked
by a large Granite ball, placed by
Gen. Boeder on the old foundations
of a marble monument set up by the
Danes in lieu of a cross which origi-
nally stood there. The marble monu-
ment was removed in deference to the
susceptibilities of the King of Sweden,
and remnants of it will be seen walled
in over the arches of the gateways of
the fortress. A pleasant view of the
town and shipping, <&c., will be ob-
tained from the Battery (with a flag-
staff) to the 1., after passing through
the entrance-gate. The forts above
mentioned lie to the S. and S.E. The
Cotnmandant*s park and the monu-
ment are reached by turning to the 1.
after issuing by the E. gate.
It is best, however, to combine a
view of this historical fastness with a
drive up the pretty Tistedal valley, a
couple of hours being more than
sufficient for the purpose. The drive
should extend to Veden Qaa/rd^ an
old oountiy seat situated on an
eminence between Tiatedalen and
FemsjOen, a pretty lake (275 ft.) about
4 m. long. It is connected with the
Aspem and several other elevated
lakes by canals, which bring down
the masses of timber that will be
seen floating in rafts on the deep blue
waters of the Femsjo. At the foot
of the eminence in question are
grouped several large Saw and Cotton
tniUSf IronvxyrkSt Wood-pulp fac-
torieSf <&c., worked by the abundant
water-power of the falls which give
rise to the Tista river, the pretty, fertile
scenery of which (and especially the
picturesque waterfalls) the traveller
will have admired on his way up. The
S. bank of the river should be taken
on the way back, by way of Frederiks-
sten.
A very enjoyable drive may also
be taken (in 1^ hr.) past Berg rly.
stat., and round the large farm of
Torpum. Th^ historipal mansion of
Biidf on the W. side of the town, in
a fine park open to the public, is
worth visiting. Its original owner,
at the beginning of the present cent.,
was a wealthy merchant, Statsraad
(cabinet minister) G. Tanck, who
took an important part in the
private deliberations that preceded
the union of Norway with Sweden. It
now belongs to the ancient Anker
family. Prince Christian August
took leave of the Frederikshald
citizens in this mansion when, as
elected Crown Prince of Sweden, he
repaired to Stockholm. The words
he vnrote on the face of a rock in the
park have since been cut in : " C. A.
The friend of Norway."
Id Church is also worthy of being
the object of a drive (6 kil.) The road
passes over the Store (great) Ide-
slette (plain), which is thickly dotted
with prosperous-looking farms.
Before the rly. was built, travellers
in this part of the country .made use,
on a journey into Sweden, of the
Frederikshald Canal, the longest in
Norway, and offering picturesque
views of woodland, streams, and lakes.
Numerous locks, alongside of water-
falls, also render the tour almost as
enchanting as that along the Goteborg
canal, minus the Trollhattan, which
no traveller from Gothenburg will fail
to visit {see Handbook for Sweden), A
small str. ascends and descends the
Frederikshald canal 3 times a week
from Tistedal rly. stat. to Skulerud,
If it be desired to return to Frederiks-
hald, or to proceed to Christiania by
rail, the canal can be left at Orje or
some other neighbouring stopping-
place, where a night's lodging is
procurable, and the chaussie taken
(18 kil.) to Mysen stat., on the E.
side of the loop or parallel line of
the Smaalens rly. Travellers con-
tinuing the canal route to Btidences
ch. or Shiderud can reach (Heren
lake by a good road and take the
str. from Sandstam^/en to LillestrOm,
whence the run by rail to Christiania
is short. This excursion can be much,
andpleasurably, varied ; but the com-
paratively small number pf travellers
26 Route 2. — To Christiama from Copenhagen.
who will undertake it mnst be re-
ferred to local help and information.
The district is but little known to
tourists, and is well worth exploring.
There are opportunities several
times a week from Frederikshald
(and daily from CSiristiania) for
visiting by str. the pretty wooded
HvalDeme archipelago, washed on
the S. by the waters of the Skagerak.
Excellent seaflshmg to be obtained
and tolerable lodgings.
[Strs. ply daily (7-10 hrs.) between
Frederikshald and Christiania.]
Beyond Frederikshald the train
ascends from the level of the fjord
and passes through short tunnels
and a smiling landscape. Before
reaching Slgeberg stat. a level run
opens out a glimpse of the head of
the Singlejjordy and on the 1. will be
seen Ingedal church. Then, leaving
Skjeherg chv/rch to the rt., the train
crosses a bridge over the Sarpsfos
{Falls ofihe Glommenrvr&t) and runs
into
Sarpiborg^ (109 kU.) Buff. On
rt. bank of Glommen; junction of
loop line.
History, Ac— The town (pop. 2978) dates
from the 11th cent., its ancient fortifi-
cations— .Sf. Olafs Void, or Wall, being still
plainly traceable. Destroyed by the Swedes
1587, it was rebuilt 1839, after the site had
been purchased with the Borregaard estate
by Sir J. H. Pelly, Bart, G^overnor of the
Bank of England, the Storthing haying given
permission to that effect. The estate was
subsequently long in the hands of Messrs.
Sewell Bros, and Percy Gk)^man, but is now
owned, together with Borregaard house, a
fine old structure close to the town, by the
English « Partington Paper-mill Co." In 1702
the more ancient outbuildings of Borregaard
were undermined by the G-lommen, into which
they sank, together with 14 of the inmates
and about 200 head of cattle. Another Eng-
lish company has had a similar experience,
while completing the construction of a huge
milk-condensing factory, a little farther
down the river, and now removed to a more
solid foundation. A. short line (2^ kil.) runs
to Borr^aard.
The trade of the place in timber
(still shipped at Sannesundy 2 kil.
lower down) has been in great part
absorbed by the merchants of Frede-
rikstad, and the only interest to tra-
yellers now consists in the
BarpifoB. The finest views of this
splendid fall, about 1 m. above the
town, are from a pavilion attached
to the now decayed mansion of
Hafalund. Its height is about 65 ft.
The principal of the 2 branches of
the majestic Olommen is much con-
tracted immediately before it arrives
at the fall. On the brink a project-
ing mass of granite divides the
stream, which falls almost vertically
and unbroken. The body of water is
very great when the river is full, and
there are large masses of granite
through and over which the foaming
water rushes for a short distance, and
then flows gently onwards to the sea.
The numerous saw-mills and build-
ings close to the fall on both sides
detract from the picturesque grandeur
of this Schaffhausen of the North.
The volume of water may be judged
from the fact that in summer, upon
the brink of the fall, the stream
measures nearly 120 ft. in width,
the deepest part being over 25 ft. ;
while in spring, after the melting of
the snow, the breadth is increased
by as much as 30 ft.
The Glommen is the largest river
in Scandinavia. It rises in the
Vigelmp tarn in the prefect, of S.
Trondhjem, S. of Roros (see Rte. 14).
It receives the waters of many minor
rivers and attains a total length of
nearly 600 kil.
Leaving Sarpsborg, the train passes
the Olengsholj a bend of the Glom-
men, the old Ch. of Tune (rt.^, and
the port of Scmnesundt the highest
point to which the river is navi-
gable by large vessels. Beyond
Oreaker stat., a thickly populated
district is passed while still skirting
the river bank, until the train reaches
Frederikstad * (94 kil.) Buff, BrU.
Vice-Consul. Pop. 12,500. Originally
a place of trade, and later a
fortress at the E. mouth of the
Glommen, the town was founded by
Frederick II., 1570, in the place of
Sarpsborg, destroyed during the Seven
Years' War. The river, crossed by a
§team-ferry, divides it int<? E. Fredf ,
Route 2. — Frederikstad ; Moss.
27
rikstad, which includes the fortifica-
tions (the outlying forts having no
longer any military importance), and
W. Frederikstad, on Bolfsden (island).
It is now an important timber-
shipping place, with a considerable
mercantile fleet belonging to it, and
many steam Sa/u) and Flawing mUls,
Brick-works^ &o. A trip up the river
is recommended for a view of the in-
dustrial activity of the town. The
Theatre^ RVy, Stat., Art Association,
Park, Ac, are on the W. side of the
river.
[Daily communication by local str., not
only with Christiania (about 7 hrs.), but also
with the neighbouring Haxko Baths* (about
1 hr.)i a much frequented and very healthful
resort in summer.]
After passing W. Frederikstad and
Olemminge chs., the train enters a
tunnel, after which views open of the
W. embouchure of the Glommen,
with large Planinff-mills on its banks.
The KjOlberg-elv, spanned by a bridge,
is crossed after leaving the Rolf sO lake.
To the rt., near the river bank, stands
the old Kjalberg mansion. The bridge
of the same name is celebrated in the
annals of the war of 1814.
Onso (87 kil.), and 3 other small
stats, are not stopped at by the
express train, which continues to run
through scenery alternately hilly,
flat, and wooded, until it draws up at
Moss ^ (60 kil.) Buff. BHt. Vice-
Consul. Pop. 8000. It was here that
(Aug. 14, 1814) Prince Christian Fred-
erick signed the Convention which led
to the union of Norway with Sweden
on Nov. 4 following. Of ancient origin
as a mart, and situated at the mouth
of the Mosse-elv (rising in the VansjO)t
in the Mossesunid, the town has con-
siderable water-power for driving the
large Flour and Wood-puJ^ mills and
the machinery of other industrial
establishments that will be seen. The
meats, game, fish, &o., of the *' Moss
Preserving Co.'* are of great excel-
lence and repute. There is also a
considerable trade in timber, corn,
<&c. Local strs. pass through a canal
on th^ir waj^ S. or vice ver^d,
[Dally stn. to ChriBtiania and aoross the
fjord to Horten nayal stat., dbo.]
Crossing the Mosse-elv, the train
soon has, on the 1., the Mossestmd,
an arm of the vast Christiania fjord,
here visible. The landscape assumes
a tame character, which is preserved
until the vicinity of the capital is
reached.
Yestby stat. (89 kil.) is next arrived
at. N. of it is a Ch, and Manse of
that name, and a small lake on the 1.
Through an undulating country the
express proceeds (without stopping)
to
Aas stat. (32 kil.) Not far from
it, on the road to Drdbak (13 kil.;
see Bte. 1), is a large Government
Agricultural school and Model farm,
with Aas ch. close by, but not visible
from the rly. The loop line of which
mention has been made unites at
Ski stat. (24 kil.) Buff. Only a
few farms break the monotony of the
forest from this point until a splendid
viaduct over the Lionja-dal gives a
charming view both of the valley
below and of the Bundefjord in the
distance.
Oppegaard (18 kil.) and Ijan (8 kil.)
having been passed, attention is drawn
to the stat. at
BsBkkelaget (4 kil.), where, how-
ever, the express does not stop.
Numerous pretty viUas will be seen on
the mainland as well as on the islands
opposite, one of which — Chmd — is
connected by a bridge. Above, on
the rt., is the Egeherg Hill (see Bte.
1, " Drives," &o.) Below are numerous
bathing-houses and the landing-stages
of the Christiania strs. plying to the
islands and to places in the Bunde-
fjord (6 kil. long), an offshoot of the
Christiania fjord. This is also the
stat. for the Nordstrand Sea-bathing
EstaJbHshment and Bestaurant, to
which an enjoyable trip can be made
later from the city, either by rail or
str.
In a very few minutes the charm-
ingly situated capital of Norway, with
its busy harbour, well-grouped build-
ings, and its semicircular background
pf lofty wopd-Qlad hills, opens to the
28
Route 3. — Stockholm to Christiania.
yiew as the train runs along the road
that has been cat for it in the face
of the rocky base of Egeberg Hill,
and soon deposits its passengers at
CHSI8TIAKIA. ^ (See Bte. 1.)
KOUTE 3.
STOCKHOLM TO CHBISTIANIA, Vid CHAB-
LOTTENBEBQ AND EONGSYINaEB.
(By raU.)
[Distance, 675 kiL ; fare (1st cl.)) 48.50 kr. ;
time, about 25 hrs. Express through trains
in summer in 17^ hrs. In winter the train
stops at night for 4 hrs. at Gharlottenberg
when going S. and at LaxG in the reverse di-
rection. (Consult time-tables.)
Str. once a week in about 4 days ; fare,
40 kr.]
After leaving Gharlottenberg (432
kil. from StocMiobn), where carriages
are changed (Buff.), the Norwegian
frontier is crossed near Hagnor stat.
(133 kil. from Christiania). [Luggage
examined at Eongsvinger or Christi-
ania.] One of the stone heaps mark-
ing the boundary with Sweden will
be seen to the 1. of the line, a short
distance from Gharlottenberg. The
next stats, are
Skottemd (127 kil.)
Eidskog (122 kil.)
Aabogen (112 kil.)
Following the bwik of the Glom-
men, part of the waters of which find
their way hence into Sweden by the
valleys of the Vrangs-elVi the train
next runs along the bank of the great
Vingersjden, or basin, regulating the
floods of the Glommen, the valley
of which is then left until the train
4raws up at
Kongsvinger (100 kil.) Buff.
This small town (pop. 1300), situated on
the G-lommen, receired municipal priyile^es
in 1854, and has a Custom-house on account
of its proximity to the Swedish frontier, over
which Norwegian goods (and vice vend) pass
under a special inter-state tariff. It is con-
nected 1^ a long bridge with the stat.
The Fortress on the height (800 ft.) was
built in the middle of the 17th cent., and
once formed an important link in the chain
of fortifications by which the passage of the
river was defended before the union with
Sweden. It remains in charge of a com-
mandant. There is a fine view from it. In
the neighbourhood, at Vingery and in N. and
S. Odaieny are Sau>^ Planing^ and Flour millSy
and seyeral other industrial establishments.
[A rly. {Soldr line) is in construction
northwards to Fldbergy on the Flisen river.]
From Kongsvinger the line turns
off to the N.W., and soon passes 2
small stats., over bridges thrown
across the Glommen. It takes an
almost direct southerly direction at
Skani»8 stat. (79 kil.), in Hede-
marken prefect., and then makes a
further southerly decline towards
SsBtentden stat. (67 kil.) Still with
the Glommen on the rt., the train
generally draws up at
Aarnes stat. (58 kil.) Buff, The
stat. beyond is
Haga (49 kil.) After
Bla^'er stat. (42 kil.), near which
is a now abandoned earthwork,
thrown up in 1683, the train passes
over an iron bridge (1510 ft.) that
spans the Glommen, which, a little
beyond
Fetsund stat. (29 kil.), falls into
the long (94 kil.) Oieren lake before
continuing its course again as a river
to Sarpsborg (see Rte. 2). Turning
N.W. from the head of that lake, the
train runs on to
Lillestrom (21 kil.) Buff. Junction
with the Trunk rly. between Chris-
tiania and Trondhjem. See Bte. 14
for description and remainder of
journey to
CHBI8TIAKIA. ^ (See Bte. 1.)
Route 4. — Christicmia to Skien,,
29
ROUTE 4.
CHRISTIANIA TO 8KIEN, viA DRAMMEN,
HOIiMESTRAND, TONBBERG, SANDE-
FJORD, liAURVIK, AND PORBORUND,
WITH BRANCH TO HORTEN,
(By rail.)
Dis- Fare •jx-.a
tance2ndcl.*-^"-
KiL Kr.
Ghristiania to Drammen . 63 2.90 2
„ „ Holmestrand 86 4.40 3
„ Tdnsberg . Ii5 6.70 4
„ Sandefjord . 139 6.80 6
„ Laurrik . 168 7.60 5i
„ Porsgrund . 195 9.30 711
Skien . .204 9.70 7|
ft
9*
n
Horten
107 5.30 4
[Nightly mail steamsliip service to Laurvik
in 7^ hrs.— fare, 6.80 kr. (see Rte. 15)— and
several other strs. run to. the places above-
mentioned. (Consult time-tables and hotel
porter.)
The journey to Skien will be under-
taken by travellers who intend to visit
Telemarken, or to proceed towards
fjords on the W. coast. The trains
start from the Western rly. (Vest
Jembane) stat., at the head of
Pipervik bay. Owing to the narrow-
ness of the gauge, the carriages are
small and " stuffy " : in summer from
the heat, and in winter from the ob-
jections made by native passengers
to the opening of a window. A re-
latively commodious saloon carriage
is, however, attached to the train
and seats (1. hand) should be
secured in it.
Soon emerging on the Frogner-
kilen (inlet of the fjord), which it
skirts, affording a fine view of Oscars-
hall and the Bygdo penin. across
the water, the train reaches
^ No 1st class on this line.
» By express, approximately.
BygdS (8 kil.) This is the stat. at
which passengers alight for a walk
over the penin. (see Rte. 1, "Drives,"
(fee.) Pretty landscape to
Lysaker stat. (6 kil.), approached
by a bridge over a small river of the
same name. Several Factories here.
Two stats, beyond is
Sandviken (18 kil.) Buff. ; but ex-
press does not stop. This is a favour-
ite place for an excursion in summer
or winter, either driving or by rail.
An excellent Bestawrant close to the
stat. Carriages and posting-horses
procurable for the " Drive to Sund-
volden '* (Rte. 1). Crossing an iron
bridge over a river with wooded
banks (strictly preserved for trout),
the train ascends through pretty
scenery (including a peep, at Slcebendey
of the charmingly situated Jtisistad
House and Park, well adapted for the
residence of an English family), and,
passing several cuttings and a short
tunnel, draws up, in about 40 min.
from the city, at
Hvalstad stat.. (dO kil.), 220 ft.,
whence a charming view of Chris-
tiania in the distance will be obtained.
Within 5 min. walk is a large Sana-
torium and Hotels on an eminence
between the stat. and Skougumgaard,
about 330 ft. above sea-level. Sur-
rounded by pine-woods, it neverthe-
less offers an enchanting view of the
Christiania fjord and its islands, as
far as Drobak. The situation is
highly salubrious, and the sanator-
ium so well managed that travellers
in search of health and repose can
advantageously pass some time there
at very moderate expense.
The bluff (Shmgumsaasen) that
frowns down upon the sanatorium is
about 1150 ft. high, and therefore
affords a more splendid prospect
than the one just mentioned. It can
be ascended (in 3 or 4 hrs. both
ways), with some scrambling, from
the E., and is often the object of an
excursion from Christiania and Sand-
viken. From the latter point, a road
leads close by the old Ch. of Tanum,
The more enticing ascent is, however,
from Skougumgaard, equally access*
30
Route Ai.^^Christiania to Skieri.
ible either from Hvalstad or from the
next Btat. of
ABker (23 kU.), 340 ft. On the rt.
will be Been Va/rdekollent a granitic
mass rising to about 1150 ft. Many
small roads lead hence to romantic
spots. The one leading to Kong-
Itmgen affords the possibility of reach-
ing Ghristiania or Drobak by a local
str. An altitude of 380 ft. is attained
at
Bbken stat. (34 kil.), but the highest
point of the line is reached at
Spikestad stat. ^37 kil.), 462 ft.
On emerging from ue second tunnel
after the stat. a picturesque panorama
of the Lier-dal is obtained, and soon
after, when winding along the pre-
cipitous hillside, the Fjord of Dram-
meUy the town itself, and a wide ex-
panse of fertile, well-cultivated land
burst into view, to the 1. By the
time the train has reached Lier stat.
(46 kil.) the altitude has fallen to 75 ft.
above sea-level.
The train then runs along the
bottom of the Lier valley, and passes
through
Brageroen stat. (151 kil.) in an out-
lying part of Drammen. Crossing by
a wooden bridge a broad branch of
th(B Drammen river, to the island of
Hohnen (only a place of execution in
olden days), through its busy timber-
yards, and thence curving by another
bridge over a parallel branch of the
river, and affording to the traveller
striking panoramic views of the fjord,
the river (about 3300 ft. broad where
crossed by the rly,), and the town, the
train draws up at
Drammen^ (53 kil.) Good Buff,
Time for light refreshments. BriL
Vice-Consul,
[Junction with rlya. to Kongsberg, Hdne-
fot (RingerUe), and Bandifjord. (SeeBtes.
6 and 7.)]
[Strs. daily to Christiania, Srelvig, Holme-
strand, and Horten ; weekly to Grangemouth ;
and occasionaJly to London and Hull. Also a
posting-road (33 Ml.) to the shore of the
Christiania i^ord, opposite Drobak, reached
in a ferry-boat.]
History. — Drammen has no ancient his-
tory, for even the date and the circnmstances
of the peopling of the mouth of the great
Drammen river are unknown. In the middle
of the 16th cent., howerer, it was the most
frequented harbour in Norway, having been
annually visited then by more tluan 50
vessels from Holland, N. Grermany, and Ham-
burg. The first ch. was built in 1620 at
Bragernces^ the citizens of which were in-
scribed as burghers of Ghristiania, after the
foundation of that city in 1624. In 1632 and
1636 those burghers were ordered to remove
to the city within a period of 3 months, with
a view to its being peopled. Nevertheless,
the edict being much opiwsed and evaded,
BragemsBS became already in 1656 a celebrated
port of shipment. Its incorporation with
Christiania was replaced in 1800 by indepen-
dent municipal privileges, extended to the 2
previously distinct communes of Bragernses
and StromsS, and Tangen. The Swedes were
in occupation of the port in 1716, which then
began to be called Drammen, and its
trade (principally in timber) and its ship-
ping suffered much from the invasion of
Charles Xn. (1716 and 1718) and from
Swedish privateers. From such small and
precarious b^nnings the port (now open in
the coldest weather, thanks to an ice-breaking
str.) exported in 1890 nearly 200,000 tons
of goods (more than half timber, the re-
mainder consisting of wood-pulp, ipe, &c.),
shipped in 764 vessels (aggr^ate tonnage
251,326). The imports^ on the other hand,
were only 38,340 tons of coal and a sonall
quantity of iron and machinery. The ship-
ping belonging to the port rivals that of
Christiania and ArendaL This is also a place
of considerable industrial activity, especially
on the banks of the river, above the town.
Topography. — This thriving town
of 23,680 inhabitants (almost entirely
rebuilt after fires in 1866 and 1870)
is beautifully and even grandly situ-
ated between the wooded heights of
Bragemcesaascn and the estuary of
the noble Drammen river, at its junc-
tion with a fjord connected with that
of Christiania. It is composed of the
3 ancient settlements of Bragerruss,
lining the N.E., and Stromal) and
Tangen the S.W. bank of the river.
A long bridge close to the rly.
stat. connects the Stromso quarter
with that of Bragernses. It is the
favourite promenade of the citizens,
who there enjoy not only the cool
breeze that comes down the valley,
but also a view of the Blefjeld
(4494 ft.) in Telemarken. Brager-
naBS is the most important part of the
city, and where its principal buildings
are grouped. In a handsome wide
square is the Bragemcsstorv (market
place). On the rt. of this is the Ex-
Route 4!.-^Dtammen ; Hohnestrand; Horten, 31
chang^t and at the upper end the
Town hall and Covrt h<mse. Beyond
these buildings the Kirke st. termi-
nates at the pretty Gothic Brag&mms
oh., completed in 1871 by Nordgren.
Its altar-piece (the "Resurrection")
is by Tidemandf and the sculptured
Angel over the font is by Borch. (In-
terior shown by the sacristan, who
lives in a house opposite.) To the
rt. of the ch. a road leads to the
Brand^st (fire stat.), from which
a view superior to any other is ob-
tained of the city and its beauti-
ful surroundings. Ardent explorers
can reach hence, in less than an
hour, the KLoptjcBm^ a lake that sup-
plies the city with water. (Befresh-
ments obtainable in a cottage close
by.) From Prinds Oscar^s Udsigt
(view), an ascent of 5 min. more, a
good panorama of the Lierdalj d^c, is
obtained. They should also take the
zigzag road that ascends from the
back of Bragemads oh. to Brager-
nsesaasen (bluff) (J hr.) Both the
Blefjeld and the Jonsknuten (2985
ft.) are included in the extensive view
from this eminence. The Osca/rssti&n
promeiiade in the same locality can-
not fail to be admired. To the 1.
from BragemsBS market place is the
prettily laid-out Town park,
[Fishing. — Considerable quantities
of salmon are netted in the Drammen
fjord, and anglers may possibly meet
with success in June, the river being
an early one.]
After leaving Brammen the train
ascends, at a gradient of 1 in 80, the
Kobberviksdal, the highest point of
which (262 ft.) is reached at
GnndeBO stat. (62 kil.) A short
stoppage is made at the next stat.
of
Skouger (63 kil.), whence the de-
scent becomes rapid, for
Galleberg stat. (69 kil.) is 115 ft.,
and that of
Sande (73 kil.) only 62 ft. above
sea-level. Bunning past the Ch, of
that name, the train emerges on the
Sandebtigtf an inlet of the Ghristiania
fjord (fine view), the shore of which
is then followed to
Holmestrand^ (86kil.) Buff. A
very prettily situated, much frequented
sea-bathing place (pop. 2360) at the
base of an almost perpendicular cliff
of porphyry. The bathing season is
between June 15 and Sept. 1. [Cold
and hot salt-water and Oytje baths —
mud of decomposed sheU-fish and
seaweed, effectual in cases of rheu-
matism.] Visitors will obtain a
beautiful view from the top of Solum-
saasen^ 3 kil. from the town (incor-
porated 1744). Good sea-fishmg.
After a short run the fjord is left,
near Nykirke stat. (96 kil.), after
which the train stops at
Skopum (100 kil.) Buff. The lake
to the 1. is called Borrevand. Junction
here with rly. to Horten.
[Branch line to Horten (7 kil.)]
Horten.^ Pop. 6800. This is the
chief stat. of the Norwegian navy,
the ships of which are moored in a
capacious inner harbour, safely en-
closed by the islands of L&vden (with
ruins of St. Halvard\s ch. on the
S.W.), Melletndenj and OsWen. Its en-
trance is defended by a Fort on Veal(5s
island, and a small Citadel on Kylling-
hoved protects the Building-sheds
and Engine-factories t which are on
the E. side of the harbour, together
with the Dockf Na/oal museum,
Chwrchy Barracks, &g. On the W.
side of the town, which is unpaved
and uninviting, is the large, thickly
wooded Keisennark property. To
the N.W. is the extensive and an-
cient .estate of Falkenstein. A charm-
ing walk, mostly through forest, can
be taken in a S. direction to Aas-
gaardstrand (pop. 400), a pretty
bathing-place on the fjord, past
Borre ch., neaj which, in a wood
close to the shore. Tumuli of the
Saga age can be seen. [Strs. run
daily between Christiania, Horten,
and Aasgaardstrand ; also from and
to Horten and Moss, on the opposite
side of this narrow part of the fjord.
(See Bte. 2.)]
32
Route 4. — GhrUtiania to 8hien»
Continuation op Journey to Skien.
Two stats, beyond Holmestrand, at
the second of which,
Barkaker (109 kil.), will be seen
(to the rt.) the Mansion and Parks of
the noble Wedel-Jarlsherg family, to
which belongs a very considerable
part of the fertile district now being
passed by the traveller. Close to
the mansion is Sem ch.t in which
Harald GiUe (1130) performed the
penance of carrying hot iron. The
Mortuary chapel of the Wedel family,
with an Altar-piece by Eckersherg
(Norwegian painter), stands behind
the ch. The train is now shunted
back through a tunnel to
Tonsberg^ (116 kil.) Buff, Brit
Cons. Agent. [Strs. daily to and from
Christiama ; twice a week to Skien
and Frederikshald \ and weekly to
Orangemouth. The canal, in course
of construction, will enable all the
Norwegian coasting strs. to call at
Tfinsberg.]
History. — This is the oldest town (7260
inhabitants) in the kingdom, since it dates
from the 8th cent., and was a populous place
in the days of Harald Haarfager (860-933).
In the reign of "Saint" Olaf (1015-1030)
trade flourished at Tbnsberg, then visited, at
the annual fair, by numerous Saxon and
Danish merchants, whom the king delighted
to meet. In much later days G^man mer-
chants, from Rostock, &c., monopolised the
trade. It was at Tbnsberg that St. Olaf re-
ceived the envoys of King Canute, who
demanded, as a condition of his retention of
the Mngship over the S. part of Norway,
that he shoi^d pay tribute to England. His
reply was that he would defend his patrimony
to the uttermost rather than submit to the
suzerainty of Canute. Notwithstanding
much internecine warfare, the city was
wealthy and important in the reign of Mag-
nus Erlingsbn (1161-1177), who defeated the
" Birch-legs." Haakon Haakonsbn (1217-1263 )
held his court frequently here. Haakon V.
Magnuson confirmed the municipal privi-
leges of Tbnsberg in 1318. Its prosperity
was maintained until the 16th cent., when
(1536) it was burnt down, with its clois-
ters and chs., by the Swedes. In 1659, how-
ever, Frederick II. of Denmark granted a
new charter, confirmed 1696 and extended
1653. The special privileges of the citizens
were withdrawn in 1662. Their prosperity
consequently decreased, and in 1673 the
province and city of Tbnsberg were incor-
porated in the earldom of GriJBfenf eld created
by Christian V. After the fall of the first
I earl (a man of learning), the old mansiotl
of Saeihem (then **GrifCenf eld's gaard") was
bestowed, with the earldom (excluding the
town), on TJlric F. Gyldenlbve, who sold it
(1683) to Baron Wedel, created (1684) Earl
of Jarlsberg, and whose Uneal desoendant
still holds the property, as well as the title,
which, however, under the Norw^^ian con-
stitution, dies with him.
Tbadb.— A large amount of shipping,
principally sailing vessels, is owned at Tons-
berg, which is the centre of the Norwegian
whaling and sealing industries in the Arctic
Ocean. In 1890, 35 strs. (6343 tons)
brought home the product of 50,000 seals,
50 polar bears, and nearly 900 bottle-nose
whales, while the whaling strs., owned
chiefly by Mr. Svend Foyn, prince of
Norwegian whalers, took on the coast of
Finmarken 627 whales. Seven whaling
strs. from Tbnsberg caught on the coast
of Iceland (with harpoons fired from guns)
nearly 200 similar monsters of the deep,
7 being of the large and now rare "N. Cape '*
species. Nearly 2000 bottle-nose whales were
taken in the same year by a fieet of 39 smsJl
sailing vessels and strs. The sealskins are
exported exclusively to London, where they
fetch, before being dressed, 6s. Sd. each.
Other produce of the fisheries is sent to Ger-
many and France as well as to Great Britain.
The imports are mostly confined to coal and
salt.
Topography. — After fires in 1822,
1889, and 1842, the town lost much
of its ancient aspect, and was iu great
part reconstructed with regularity.
It has only one Ch.j built 1857, the
Town hall now st£uiding on the site
of a ch. of the 11th cent., demolished
1862. In a Cemetery a short dis-
tance from the centre of the town
some old Tombstones (17th cent.) have
been set up against the wall for their
preservation and exhibition.
All visitors are recommended to walk
to the top of the Slotsfjeld, a precipi-
tous rock (200 ft.) accessible only
from the N. and S. This is the site
of the old TOnsherghus castle, one of
the strongest fortresses in Norway
during the middle ages. The rock
was first fortified in the 12th cent.,
and played an important part in the
internecine wars of the next cent.,
when it was encircled by a wall. In
1877-78 the Emns were cleared and
the foundations, both of Magnus
Lagaboter's (1263) brick Castle and of
the equally ancient Ch, of St. Michael,
laid bare. In 1888 a granite Tower
(60 ft.) was erected to commemorate
Route 4. — Tonsberg ; Sandefjord ; Laurvik. 83
the historical interest of the spot, and
to afford the citizens, as well as
visitors, a magnificent view of the
snrronnding country. [A small fee
payable.] Some Mounds in the
vicinity are reputed to cover the
remains of the older kings of the S.
of Norway.
A drviie (11 kil.) to Vramgen sounds
where, in Kjtihmmds-shja^ harbour,
the Arctic whalers, <j^c., are laid up
in winter, is of interest. They ai^
manned by seamen who live chiefly on
NdisrS and T/'d^md islands. A swing-
ing bridge, connecting the island first
mentioned with the mainland, crosses
the canal, which is to be replaced by
one of greater depth and breadth.
Many of the cottages of the seamen
are patterns of cheerful neatness.
There is an excellent SanatorvuM
(sea-bathing) at Ormelet, TjiynUi^
island (June 1-Sept. 1), and very good
sea-flshingj with boats for hire. Local
strs. run to Ormelet.
The small townof Vall(j, with an old
battery, is about 7 kil. by road from
Tonsberg. At Nctrverdd (6 kil. from
Tonsberg) is another large and com-
fortable Scmatorium amidst pine-
woods, through which are many pretty
walks. Sea-fishmg goQd.B.E. otT}6m6
will be seen the Lille FcBrder light-
house (see Btei 1), marking the en-
trance to the Christiania fjord.
Returning to the main line, and
leaving the Jarlsberg mansion to the
rt., the train proceeds to
Sem stat. (121 Ml.), and, after pass-
ing, on ground more or less level, the
stat. of
Stokke (128 kil.), runs throu^^
Baastad stat. (136 kil.) To the 1.
of it is Ookstad, where the Viking
ship exhibited at Christiania (Bte. 1)
was dug out in 1880. In a few
minutes the train draws up at
SandeQordsic (139 kil.) Buff, Pop.
4250. On fjord of same name. This
is a fashionable watering -place be-
tween June 1 and Sept. 1, the
waters being sulphurous, saline, and
chalybeate. Oiants* cauldrons occur
near Aa^en and in Vinddlsbugtf to
[Norway — vi. 92.]
which access is by boat. Upright
Monumental stones of great antiquity
are also found in the vicinity, the
country between this and TSnsberff
being, in fact, of deep historical
interest.
[Steam oommnnioation witit Chris-
tiania, Laurvik, Ac]
After passing the second small
stat. beyond, through scenery more
or less tame, until, at TjGdUng stat.
(149 kil.), a view of the Laurvik fjord
is obtained, ttie Laagen river is
crossed by a bridge (660 ft. long) ; and,
after a momentary run through 2
tunnels, the traveller alights at
Laurvik ^^ (158 kil.) Buff. Brit,
Vice-Consul.
ISteam eommunieation daily with all coast
towns B. and W. ; passengers by Copenhagen
Btr. landed at Horten (see above) for LaurrU:.
Weekly oonununication from Oopenhagen
vid Prederikshavn, whence only lOhrs. direct
to Laurvik. Strs. on Hamburg route also touch
here. Two of the ** Ostlandske Lloyd's *' com-
fortable strs. leave alternate every Fri. night,
winter and summer, for Tyne Dock, New-
castle, after the arrival of the express from
Ohristiania. Direct str. to Antwerp every
Thurs. nig^t after arrival of express from
Christiania. The Swedish W. coast rly. lines
and Oopenhagen accessible vid Horten, Moss,
Fredezlk8faald(Bte.3). (Coiinilttime.tables.)]
TopooRAPHT,<fec. — This picturesque
town, enfranchised 1671 (pop. about
12,000), lies in orescent form at the
head of a small bay formed by the
Skagerak, from which it rises some-
what steeply towards the wooded
heights that form a verdant amphi-
theatre on the N. There is nothing
to see in the town itself, but a walk
in Storgade and the neighbourhood
of the Ch, affords a beautiful view.
At the E. end is the old wooden
mansion of the Earls of Laurvik, now
used as a School. In the face of a
rock (to the 1.) are inscriptions re-
cording visitations of tiie town by
Christian V. and his successors. At
the other extremity, on a height, is
Fritzdehusy the noble residence of
the Treschow family, pf Danish
descent, whose remote ancestors
may have given the name of
84
Route 4. — Christiania to 8kien,
" Tresoo '* to the well-known Soiily*
island.
Much of the landed property that
onoe belonged to the old earldom is
in the hands of that family. The
view from the mansion and its beau-
tiful grounds is fine. [Admission on
application to the steward of the
estate.] Large Factories will be seen
at the mouth of iheFarris-elVt ascend-
ing the rt. bank of which the pictu-
resque Farris-vand (lake) wUl be
reached. Between these points is
situated "Laurviks Pride," the Beech-
wood (entered from the W.) of about
60 acres, in which citizens and visitors
delight to wander, the plantation
itself and the views from it being
delightful. The greatest attraction,
however, to Laurvik is its splendid
Hydropathic establishment,^ much
frequented (from June 1) by aliens as
well as natives for the efficacy of its
waters, and of its other curative pro^
cesses in cases of gout, rheumatism,
chronic catarrh, nervous affections,
poverty of blood, skin diseases, &c.
The principal establishment and its
hotel are situated at a short distance
from the town, alongside the beech:
wood, of which the hotel park is a
continuation, about 9 acres of it con-
sisting of beech-trees, the other 6
acres being planted with a variety of
other trees an^ bushes, and adorned
with flower-beds and grass-plots, with
beautiful walks on roads and paths
that dry immediately after rain. In
this part of the park is the Kurhotel,
a brick building in Italian Benais-
sance style, with . 2 dining-rooms
and spacious verandahs affording
beautiful views. The Bade og Socie-
tetshus (" Pump-rooms ") is a large
wooden building in Norwegian style,
with every variety of hydropathic
appliance, reading, dancing, and
billiard rooms, Aq. A band plays
outside twicQ a day. The warm sea,
fulphurou^, and m>arine-mud baths
are in a pretty wooden building at
tiie head of the bay, close to the rly.
* Even the name of " Soilly " is apparently
derived from the Danish word skille, or
** separated " (from the mainland) islands.
stat. This is the only establishment
in the N. which commands a really
pure geological sulphur spring, A
ferruginous spring, in the hill near
the old mansion above mentioned, is
likewise utilised by the establishment,
the waters from both springs being
carried twice a day to the pai^ pump-
room. (For terms, vide Index.)
Excursions. — Many pleasant ex-
oui'sions can be madie hence by str.,
carrifl^, and rail. The Farria lake, 20
kil. in length, on which a str. runs
daily, should be seen. At its upper
end is th6 pretty wooded mountain-
ous district of Slemdal, A beautiful
lake (Lak^Q) with Waterfalls, imd a
ohanning Shooting-box, belonging to
Mr. Treschow, can be reached £rom
the. steamboat-pier at the end of the
Farris, on foot or horseback. (Dis-
tance only a few kil.) A str. runs
daily to Fredrihsvcern, 6 kil. distant
(see Bte. 15). Many other trips and
walks will be indicated at the Bath
hotel. .
FisBiNO. — The sea-fishing outside
the bay is very good. TVot^^flshing in
the short Farris river is preserved by
the ownet of Frltzoehus. Mention
will be found under " Sport ** of the
saZrttoTt-flghing in the Laagen (Logen)
liver, which, after rising in the Nord-
mamds-Laagen lake in the Hardanger
mtn. moorlands, and running through
Numedal and past Kongsberg, falls
into the sea at the E. end of Laurvik.
A few days' fishing obtainable with
local assistance. Two tolerably good
pools at Ha/nsvold (37 kil.) are occa-
sionally available. A drive to the
latter point (4 hrs.) along the bank of
the river is in any case recommended.
Leaving Laurvik, the line takes a
N.W. direction, along the Farris river
and the W. side of Lake Farris, on
the face of the rocks, blasted for that
purpose. Several short tunnels are
pasded before and after the lake is
crossed, the views between being very
striking. Beyond the seventh tunnel
will be seen (rt.) the great Bjoml}en
(island). The first stat. is
Tjose (169 kil.) Passing a Ch., and
still running along the Farris lake,
Route 4. — Poragntnd; Shim,.
35
through scenery of the most pictur-
esque description, the train proceeds
to
Aaklungen stat. (182 kil.), whence
it takes a S. direction, and, skirting a
small lake, reaches
Birkedalen stat. (188 kil.), alt. 236
ft. The line then runs between 2
small lakes, a wood, and several
cuttings, to
Eidaager stat. (192 kil.), prettily
situated and surrounded by forest.
There is an hotel in the neighbour-
hood, facing a small fjord, which is
about 5 Ml. off. Good bathing here
and many villas, A short run hence,
through wooded scenery, brings the
traveller to
Forsgnmd^ (195kil.) Buff, Brit,
Vice-ConsiU.
This town (pop. 4000), dating
from 1807, straggles for some distance
along both banks (now bridged) of the
rapid Skien river, from near its outlet
in the Frierfjord, It is a place of con-
siderable trade in timber and ice, and
much shipping belongs to it. It boasts
of the only Porcelain manufactory
in Norway. It has several other
ind^ietrial estdbUshmentSy including
Creosote-^orks, Vold^ a large estate,
consisting of fine pine-woods and
numerous lakes, at the head of a
small picturesque fjord running out
of the Frier-fjord, is owned by Mr.
Croft, an Englishman. Local str.
to Void and also to Langesund (Bte.
15) . Following the 1. bank of the river,
on which a large old wooden mansion
of the Danish period will be noticed,
the train, after passing a remarkable
subsidence of the river bank at
QraMen and the site of the Oiemsd
Benedictine CZois^(12th-16thcent.),
reaches its terminus at
Bkien^ (204 kil.) Buff, BHt.
Vice-Consul resides at Porsgrund.
ISteam communication with Christiania,
Brevig, Langesond, &c. (See time-tables.)]
TopooRAPHT, &0, — ^As one of the
oldest (1364) municipal towns in the
kingdom, and as the starting-point of '
a journey through the grand district
of Telemarken, of which it may be
called the capital, Skien (pop.
9000) is a place of importance, in-
creased by the great development in
modern times of its industrial
activity. Its huge Wood-pidp and
Saw millSt &c., driven by the stupen-
dous water-power of the Telemarken
lakes, discharged here, after forming
2 great waterfalls — the Klosterfos
and the Damfos — into the Skien river,
attest its commercial activity, which
naturally includes a considerable ex-
port trade with foreign countries.
After a fire in 1886 which laid nearly
the whole town in ashes, including
its old wooden ch., reconstruction in
brick, on a plan of regularity, has
improved the previous appearance of
the place. The Shops are well pro-
vided with stores of every kind for the
use of travellers proceeding inland.
In the neighbourhood lies Fossum^ a
fine and extensive estate of the noble
(originally Danish) Lovenskjold
family.
There is a Tourist Association at
Skien.
For a striking view of the environs
of Skien, travellers should ascend, by
the flight of wooden steps at the
back of the rly. stat., the steep
Bratsberg cliff. On the summit, to
the 1., are the Euinsot a chapel of the
12th cent., with a crypt in preser-
vation. The geographical district
(Bratsberg) has been named after the
Bratsberg-ga,ard in the immediate
neighbourhood.
d2
36
Route 5. — 8kien to Odde and Bergen,
ROUTE 6.
8KIEN TO ODDE (fiABDANaEB) AND
BEBOEN, vid TEIiEMABREN.
iStrs. leave SUen daily for UUfo* and their
terminus at the head of the Bandak lake in
Telemarken,* one of the grandest land dis-
tricts in Norway. Strs. ascending direct from
the fjord are raised by means of looks to the
GjeUevand at Skien (14 ft above sea-level),
whence local strs. start for the Telemarken
lakes, on which the scenery is very grand.
This journey can be done with ease in 4^ dys.
The snow and cold should deter travellers
from taking this route (over the high Hau-
keli fjeld") before the first days In July and
after the middle of Sept., unless partial sledg-
ing be an atiaraction.]
Ascending the Skien river, and pass-
ing, with a total rise of 34 ft., through
the 4 locks' of the Ldveid canal, cut
out of the solid rock (1861), the str.
reaches in about 1 hr. the NordsjG
lake,4S ft. above sea-level, and 27 kil.
in length. In area (17 sq. m.) it ranks
as the third among the lakes of Tele-
marken, the waters of which are
mostly concentrated in it before their
ultimate outfall at Skien. Passengers
can leave the str. and walk to the
uppermost lock. On entering this
picturesque lake, the Lifjeld mtns.
(6100 ft.) will be seen in the N.W.
background. Very soon, on the face
of the cliffs to the rt., will be seen the
* As the canal and locks between Ul^ot and
Strengen will be opened in the course of 1892,
it would be useless to state the present ar-
rangements (time, fares, dsc.) of strs. on this
line. They will be altered as soon as strs.,
both from Ohristiania and Skien, are able to
ascend uninterruptedly to the upper end of
the Bandak lake. (Consult time-tables and
recent notices at hotels, &c.)
Indifferently spelt HaukeZW and HaukeZ<.
• The fourth is used only when the river is
in flood.
MikaMhule, the entrance to a oavem
(82 ft. deep by 23 ft. in breadth),
which, evidently excavated, was used
in the middle ages as a chapel, dedi-
cated to St. Michael. It can be as-
cended by steps from Ldveid, where
boats are available. After stopping
at a few landing-stages, the str.
reaches in about an hour from the head
of the canal, and 2 hrs. from Skien,
UlefoB (HoUm) » (20 kil. from
Skien).
[Travellers bound for BitterdaZy the Bjukan-
/ai,4EC.(Bte. 6) can disembark here. BzoeUent
accommodation. (jStea Index.) The drive hence
to Strengen (22 kil.) will not be taken after
1892, and is therefore not described.]
The Wat&rfall from which this
place takes its name is a very short
distance from the steamboat - pier.
On the 1. and rt. of it, respectively,
are the Mofumons of the Cappelen
and the Aal families, near which are
grouped SaAD-fMlU, Ironworks, and
2 Chs, The Nuke and JSofp^ peaks
will be seen in the distant S.W.
The Caaialy which will be entered
above the Ulefos, is one of the most
interesting and stupendoxis works of
the kind in Europe. It replaces a
porta{fe (although a veiy good road)
of 22 kil. between Ulefos on the
Nordsjd and Strengen on the Flaa-
vand, from which there is str. com-
munication to the head of the Bandak
lake, 66 Idl. distant, the entire length
of the uninterrupted water-communi-
cation from Skien being about 105 kil.
A difference of nearly 178 ft. in level
between the 2 extremities of the
canal is surmounted by means of
16 locks and 2 dams. The first 3
locks, with a total ascent of nearly
28 ft., and with a huge dam at the
top, are reached at Ulefos, soon after
which the str. enters the first of
the 7 locks that overcome the
principal obstacle to navigation (a
fall of 80 ft.)— viz. the Vrangfos,
Some way before the first lock is
reached, the str. enters a canal of
masonry that runs parallel with the
dammed-up river. All these looks are
blasted out of the rock, and faced
with heavy blocks of grey granite.
Route 5. — Laurdal.
37
They rise gradually, with a length of
120, a breadth of 22, and a depth of
8^ ft. From the lowest of these locks
passengers will be struck with the
gigantic proportions of the stone-
work above them. A still stronger
impression is produced by the sight of
the raging light-green waters of the
Yrangfos, now confined deep down
within a narrow gorge alongside the
locks. It was here that the chief
cUf&culty in construction was en-
countered. As no bottom could be
found in the gorge, it was necessary
to construct a massive arch of hewn
granite, between the 2 rocky sides,
as a foundation for a dam of immense
solidity. Of great breadth at its base,
this wall is constructed of heavy
hewn blocks of granite, well cemented.
The dam above the Yrangfos looks
forms a splendid waterfall.
After passing through 6 more locks,
the level of the Flaavand lake (about
230 ft. above the sea) is attained
at Strengen^ an important point in
posting days. At the upper (W.) end
of the lake (15 kil.) the rapid waters
of the narrow Fjaagesund are slowly
ascended for 3 kil., between high,
steep cliffs, which frequently appear
to shut out all access beyond, to the
Hviteseid lake (185 ft.), of a grander
but more gloomy character, owing to
its precipitous sides. The Brokefjeld
(3540 ft.) is visible to the rt., and dis-
tant to the 1. is the Baholtfjeld (3350
ft.) After passing Bukden island, the
str. proceeds, with sufficient water,
through a swinging bridge, to
Eirkeba, in the Sv/ndbygd, which
presents one of the most charming
landscapes in Telemarken, of a mild,
not gloomy, character. This point
is in communication by road with
TvedestfTcmd (140 kil.) and Arendal
153 kil.) (See Bte. 16.)
[Eirkeb5 can be reached, and vice vertd^
from the Ghristiania-Eongsberg-Hitterdal,
Ac. (Bte. 6). Distances: Landtvcerk {Ban-
land) %oNordre £H^eiie. 17 kil.; b^ond vrhiat
are um iSi^'ord), 26 kil., and Kirkebd, 17 ML]
On returning (by a str. touching
here), the broad rapid Sharpstrbm'
men (7 kil. in length), connecting the
Hviteseid with the Bandak lake (185
ft.), is entered. The scenery here in
gloomy weather is somewhat depress-
ing, the lake being bordered by grand
hills, with peaks and ridges of fan-
tastic form on the 1. shore. To the
1., after passing Apaldsto (whence a
road runs to Elirkebo), will be seen, on
the top of the mtns., a curious forma-
tion to which the name of 8t Olafs
shvp has been given. Some stretch
of imagination is here requisite. A
considerable way to the rt. is visible,
close to the shore, a rock on which
malefactors were executed in olden
days. In about 2 hrs. from Hviteseid
the str. touches at
Laurdal^ (TrissBt), a very prettily
situated hamlet at the foot of high
mtns., with houses surrounded by
orchards and gardens. The lake
scenery here is extremely grand, and
resembles that of the great fjords
on the W. coast, but it requires a fine
bright day to remove the feeling of
oppression imparted by the towering
mtns. and the dark waters of the
lake, which can sometimes be much
agitated. This used to be a favourite
resort of anglersy one of whom (in 1882)
landed, not far from the pier, a lake-
trout of 20 lbs. ; but the trout have
either been much diminished in
numbers or rendered very shy by the
extensive native use of the otter.
Nevertheless, there is sufficient sport
(gratis) for those who require a pastime
while staying for a week or more at
this pleasant, health-giving retreat,
where also the best of food and ac-
commodation will be found close to
the steamboat-pier. It is a pleasant
row (about 1^ hr.) hence to Dalen, at
the end of the lake (see below), and
many good trout can be picked up on
the way. Visitors in search of better
fishing can make excursions to well-
stocked lakes in the mtns. beyond
TrissBt, a drive of about 3J hrs.,
mostly uphill. They can also cross
over the lake by str. or boat to Ban-
daksU (see Bte. 17), and drive (21 kil.)
up a splendid and romantic zigzag
road to the great Aamdai cqpper-workt .
38
Route 6. — Skien to Odde and Bergen.
belonging to an English Go. The
LUle ("small") Rjukanfos is a short
way off the road to the 1.
Posting-Route from Lattbdal to
Odde.
(Pay 15 6. j^er Ml. and horse^ but
only 11 o. from Koldal to Odde.)
The shorter and grander road vid
Dalen (see below) can be joined hence
by posting to Mogen (12 kil., nearly
3 hrs. drive), the first ascent from
Laurdal being very steep. The stat.
is a poor one, but can be used as a
centre for excursions to the OftaU,
Bergy and other mtn.-lakes in which
good fishing is procurable. The lake
close to the stat. can be fished, but
payment is expected. The high-road
to Eongsberg is joined here, and a
post-road runs N. (22 kil.) to Ode-
gaardf on the way to Raulcmd (15
kil.), on the great Totak-vand
(2230 ft.), where there is good trout-
fishing. This is excellent in the much
larger Mjds-vandt which can be
reached on foot over a very boggy
tract from Bauland. An English
sportsman holds the lease of the best
fishing and shooting in this district.
Inquire for available water or moor
at Laurdal. The next stage from
Mogen is
Aamot (15 kil.; 2^ hrs.) Grand
scenery. The hilly road here crosses
near this spot the fine Hyland rajMt
spanned by a wooden bridge, and worth
seeing. Pedestrians can proceed hence
to the Bjukanfos, and vice versdj vid
the Totak and Mj5s-vand (lakes).
There is also a road to Dalen, with
which, however, there is now better
communication by a splendid road
from the next stat.,
HeggesWl (14 kil. ; 2J hrs.) Very
hilly road. Good quarters. (See below,
Dalen to Odde.)
Continuation of Ste.-Route to
Dalen.
Including a stoppage at Bandaksli,
opposite TrisaBt (Laurdal), the str.
reaches, in about 1^ hr..
Dalen, « at the head of theBandak
lake, which gradually narrows, and
becomes still more gloomy until the
flat, cultivated, and partly wooded
plain at the mouth of the Tokke
river comes into view, with the snow-
tipped mtns. of Upper Telemarken
as a background of much splendour.
Shortly before reaching the extremity
of the lake, observe, on a high olift to
the rt., a stony mass, to which fancy
gives the form of a **monk and
lady," the latter apparently kneeling
to receive his blessing. A popular
legend says, on the other hand,
that, the monk having insulted the
lady, she inflicted severe injuries on
him, some rocks under water on the
opposite side of the lake being pointed
out by the local peasants as disrupted
portions of the monk flung there by
the indignant lady.
Travellers having time at their dis-
posal, or requiring a rest at Dalen,
or anglers staying at one of the hotels
(see Index), should drive to the
Bavngjv/D (the "Baven^s Abyss "), a
perpendicular oliJff (1000 ft.) above the
Tokke-elv. A grand view is obtained of
the Libygfjeld from a pavilion, com-
memorating a visit by King Oscar II.
in 1879. The air-current is so strong
here that pieces of paper and some-
times handkerchiefs, and even light
hats, are blown back to those who
attempt to throw them over the preci-
pice. This excursion can be made in
5 hrs. (Horse, 5 kr., or 7 kr. for 2
persons.)
[Fishing. — Thisis sometimes pretty
good at the mouth of the river, where
large trout have been taken with a
small fly ; but the use of the otter (in
the lake) by the local pop. renders
more satisfactory a stroll up the river,
where in several of the reaches a
basket of smaller fish can, under
favourable atmospheric conditions,
easily be made. No charge made.]
POSTING-BOUTE FBOM DALEN TO OdDE.
[Both at Trisset and at Dalen car-
riages, stolkjcerrey and carrioles will
frequently be found that have brought
Route 6. — Heggestol,
39
travellers through from Odde, and
which can be engaged for the return
journey at the usual posting-rate (15 5.
per kil. and horse), or for a specifio
sum. This arrangement implies a
slower rate o| progress, although it
renders possible the performance of
the journey in 3 days, with stoppages
at comfortable hotels or stats, each
night. In these circumstances, alsov
the drivers will not object to halts of
some hours at stats, or places where
fishmg is available ; and the country
through which the traveller passes
afiEords excellent opportunities for
such sport, for which no charge is
made unless a boat and rower be en-
gaged.]
Passing through the hamlet of
Dalen, and crossing a high wooden
bridge over the rapid Tokke river, the
traveller soon r^^es the magnifieeint
new road which ascends in nume-
rous zigzags along fear-inspiring preci-
pices on the rt., and mtn.-sides rising
to 2000 ft. on the 1. A magnificent
view opens out from the summit,
which is reached in aboht 1^ hr.
Hence about ^ hr. drive brings the
traveller along a level road to the
hamlet of Eidaborg (2800 ft.), with its
timber Ch. of ancient exterior, but wii^i
nothing of any special interest within
it. A Manganese quarry will be seen,
and a posting^road leading to Mogen
and Trisset (see above). Taking the
road to the 1., up the ste^ JBUdsborg-
aotSeny and descending from its sum-
mit to the Malands-86Btert a post will
soon be reached on the wayside indi-
cating a path to the "Ravngjuv*'
above mentioned. After a di^ve of
over 3 hrs. the pretty BOrtevwnd lake
(hitherto ascended in boats) will be
reached. A road (opened in 1892)
now runs along it, and end/bles the tra-
veller to reach with comfort, and with
the enjoyment of scenery scarcely
to be surpassed in Norway for gran-
deur, the Stat, of
Heggestol (about 84 kil. from the
steamboat-pier at Dalen). A halt is
necessarily made at this farmhouse,
where the quarters are, however,
clean. Vi/nje ch, and manse are
close by, at the upper end of the
Vinje-vand (lake), where there is
good troutrfisMng, Travellers are
reconmiended to push on, for a good
meal or night's lodging, to the Chttn-
gedal hotel (14 kil., about 1^ Inr.) A
little beyond Yinje ch. the road
crosses to the rt. bank of the Orun-
geddl r., where a good road over the
Byrt-eheien is soon reached. The
river is followed for some distance,
and after the Rtiaaaen has been sur-
mounted it descends to the level of
the SmOrklep, one of the largest
arms of the Yinje lake. The river is
then re-crossed near the junction of
a mtn.-path (1.) to the great Tot^
lake, and soon, on the fiat shore of
the Grungedal lake (1590 ft.), will be
seen the hotel after which it is
named, and where good trout-fishdng
is obtainable. The waters of the
Grungedal basin, like the li^es on
the Haukeli-fjeld (over 3000 ft.), are
frequented at this great distance
from the seaboard by flocks of gulls,
proving an abundajioe of piscatory
food.
Passing from this point numerous
farms (one of which is the Nylcend
postmg-stat), and skirting the lake,
with a fine view of the Orungefjeld
and a sight of Grungedal Ch, (4 kil.),
the travellbr reiaohes the shore of the
Tveite-vandf and is next driven along
the short river-bank to the Edkmd (7
kil.) branch of that lake, at a farm on
which a halt is made when proceed-
ing in the reverse direction. Gross-
ing a river which rushes dowb from a
valley on the rt., the Haukeli rd.,
built between 1858 and 1887 (112
Jdl. to thd HiaJrdanger fjord), is at-
tained. Amongst many other farms
to the rt. is that of OrmeXwoaZ, where a
sununer Pensidn/nat (boarding-hoilse)
deservedly flourishes in a narrow
valley, into which the beautiful Vafos
falls (6r kil.), after its waters leave
the Lofngeidvaaidf in a sucoesdion of
bold leaps. From the 2 Flaathyl
farms the scenery attains more. SJid
moiie of a mountainous type and the
road, ascends by the side of a foam-
ing streamy one of the rapids of
40
Route &.—8kien to Odde and Bergen.
which is called the Rjukanfos, the
third of its name in Norway. Of the
numerous HQly or pools formed hy
the river, the largest is the EikeU^ at
an eleyation of nearly 2800 ft., dose
to the Eikilirvcmd, Bising almost
continuously, and crossing many
brooks and tarns after leaving the
river, the posting-stage is reached (in
about 3| hrs.) at
Botten (26 kil. from Nyliend stat.),
on the VaagsUvaatd (2525 ft.), in
which the t/rmU-fiahing is very good.
Pta^rmigcm-shootmg and Reindeer'
»talhing available in the proper
season (see IntroduoUon) by ar-
rangement locally. Lapps are fre-
quently encamped in the neighbour-
hood. Although the posting-stat.
is comfortable and well supplied with
food, &o., superior accommodation
at moderate prices will be obtained
at the Nyitdh hotel (8 kil. farther
on). The snow-dad mtns. beyond
add impressive grandeur to the
scenery.
Hence, after skirting the lake, and
ascending a valley with birchwood
copses, several streams and small
lakes will be passed. Soon to the 1.
will be seen Vasdabeggen (5515 ft.)
and other mtn.-peak8. Halfway to
the next stat. a view is obtained of
the grand Kjcela/ocmd (lake : 2970
ft.) and of high peaks in 4 differ-
ent prefects. Mention must be made
of the EjoelaUnd to the S. The country
becomes entirely treeless on reaching
(in about 2^ hrs.)
HankeU-toter (18 kil.), at the £.
end of the Staavand (8086 ft.) Ex-
cellent accommodcUiofi and food^ at
reasonable prices fixed by the Tourist
Association, which has reformed this
stat. The large dining-rocHn in the
Beataurant is very elegant in the
artistic simplicity imparted to it by
varnished pine and national orna-
mentation. Opposite is a building
in the form ol an old Stabur (store-
house), with cosy bedrooms upstairs.
The prindpal deeping accommoda-
tion is, however, in the large house
diagonally opposite the restaurant.
The latter, as well as the $tabur, is
available only between June 15 and
8^.15.
In the afternoon large herds of
reindeer may be seen descending to
the lake from the heights on which
they browse. At such a height the
scenery is naturally wild and deso-
late, and is rendered still more weird
by patches of snow in hollows and
by floes of ice on the lake, even in
July and under a burning sun. The
mtn. air becomes sharp and chilly
early in Aug., and showers are not
unfrequent. Travellers should be
provided with wraps and waterproofs.
[On the reverse jonrnej tbe posting<-rate
hence to Botten is 11 '6. per ]dL,and cart 36 '6.
A fixed charge of 6 kr. for 1 person and 8 kr.
for 3, is made from the ScOer to Gryting
(Bridal). (Seebeiow.)]
From the Scater the Journey is
resumed by the excellent carriage-
road made in 1886, which runs,
through scenery of wild gruideur,
first idong the shore of the Staavand
and ihen through a gorge past Ule-
vaager, A short distance beyond,
the Ulevand will be skirted, and the
prefect, of Bergen will be entered after
surmounting &e Nupeaae, the grand
Store Nup mtn. becoming visible to
the rt. The road ascends gradually in
long Eigzags ; and, as the horses can
proceed only at a walk, travellers wiU
prefer, in favourable weather, to take
on foot the mtn. -paths, by which the
distance is considerably curtailed be-
tween each curve. Magnificent views
down the road. In less than 2 hrs.
the wild Dyrshar pass is entered.
The highest point of the road, or
watershed (8706 ft.), is attained be-
tween the DyremU to the rt. and the
QrothdU to ike 1.
A Cavm (''Yarde ") to the 1. com-
memwates a journey made by King
Oscar II. in 1879. Much snow gene-
rally lies in the ndghbourhood of this
point. After driving for a diort dis-
tance along a level, &e road begins to
descend, and, at about 18 kil. from
Haukdi, a short halt for cgftee, ale,
and even solid refreshments is made
at the SvandaU wayside Inn^ where
Route 5. — Roldal Hotel.
4X
anglers can obtain aooommodatiDn
(6 beds). The trout-fishing in the
lakes below is good.
In about \ hr. henoe, a^er passing
the StavsmU peak (rt.) and the Sta/vs-
tjem (tarn), the magnificent descent
into the EMal valley commences.
To the rt. opens the Tarjebu-dal, iiov^.
which the Risbu-Aa (rivnlet) issues.
Grossing to the rt. bajik of the latiter,
the traveller is whirled down wind-
ings of such boldness %s to fill the
mind with no small amount of appre-
hension. After passing Lia Scster
the traveller gets, at AnAtmanU, a
grand view of the Bifldals-saata and
the Ekkjeska^y and a fine glimpse of
the RblddL-vand. The Valdai is then
entered, and the blue waters of the
river that flows through it crossed.
The pretty Niivle-fos next confronts
the traveller, the ^'e^2and«»t«^ appear >
ing to the 1. Amidst lovely scenery,
in strong contrast with that of the
mountainous district now so far
behind, the road descends to the pic-
turesque i^^Z^Z lake (3 sq. nuin area),
and, after a drive (including halt) of
4^ hrs.,the traveller hails with delight
a rest at
Boldal Hotel i( (30 kil.), where
every comfort and the best of cheer
await him. This is a very lovely place,
and well worthy of a stay of soiqa days.
The trout-fishing in the river above
and in the beautiful lake below affords
very good sport.
In the Ch. on the plain on the other side of
the lake are visible txaoes of the original aa»
edifice of wood. Until 1836 the omcifijt above
thedooropening into the chancel was an object
of pilgrimages from the W. coast districts as
well as from Telemarken. It was reputed to
have miracnloas healing properties, and the
ch. loft contains a large collection of thanka-
glving-ofCerings in the form of miniature
wooden legs and arms. A sflyer casket was
presented to the ch. in 1704 as an intercession
against a troublesome visitation of wolves.
Among other objects that are also preserved
may be mentioned an old oenser. llie pulpit
is dated 1627, the altar-piece (painted by
Gotfrid HendtasoheU, of Silesia) 1629, and the
font 1626.
[Thisia the point from which travel-
lers take (and vice versd) the mag-
nificent route to Sand in B^ffylhe^ in
connection by str> with Stavanger
(Bte. 21).]
At about 3 kil. from the hotel, viz. at
jSoore) a road branches off (1.) to the
SuMai (Sand I Bte. 21). Passing the
fine Br^oim ^ hotel (whence a splen-
did view), the road winds up over the
Saarebrekker until its sununit (3393
ft.) is reached, after a drive of about
3 hrs. (15 kiL) Pedestrians can
avoid the tediousness of being driven
at a foot-paee up the numerous zig-
zags by taking short cuts along
paths that will be discernible. From
^ the Elversvand the great Fo^fefonn
glacier breaks into view (in the
happy absence of mist), and soon the
Seljestad glen is enteced, the present
road replacing the old dangerous
bridle-path, which will be seen run-
ning to the 1. In bold windings, and
amidst scenery of the grandest charac-
ter, the road descends to the dark
Chr»vand (2800 ft.)« at one end of
which will be seen a WaterfaU* A
splendid view then c^ns of the
charming Sk<xredal, the mtns. behind
which are covered with the Folgefonn
snow-fields. The latter are kept in
view, and, in 40 min. after commencing
the descent, travellers arrive at
Seljestad stat. and hotel (very good)
(28 kil.,1 about 4 hrs. from Bdldal).
The glen in this part (alt. 2027 ft.) is
of much grandeur, the Folgo^ Saue-
mUt and other mtn.-tops being in
full view.
Descending gently* after a rest,
through scenery that becomes more
and more wooded, the river is crossed
a second time, and soon will be
reached a bench placed by the side of
the rook, from which can be admired
(1.) the SmlOrtjemfoSj tumbling down
into an abyss from a considerable
height. A little way farther on, in the
JUsendal, the road becomes very
beautiful, and the views are equally
fine when travelling in the (4>pQ8ite
direction. After crossing a bridge,
the rivev is retahied on the 1. hand. At
the point where the valley contracts
> Actual distanm 30 kiL
42 Route 6. — Chrisiiama to Kongsherg wnd the Rjuhcmfos.
(about 1 kil. from a cross-road) the
EspeUmdsfoSi one of the most pic-
turesque in Norway, will be seen on
the 1., and, a short way beyond, the
spray of the fine Skarsfos and Laate-
fos is frequently felt on the posting-
road, close to which their Toluminons
waters unite. Between them is an
hotelf to which visitors at Odde drive
in combination with an excursion to
the BuarbrcB (glacier), (see Odde).
The height above the waterfalls can
be reached in 25 min., by a convenient
pathway. The river by which they are
formed rises in the Reinsmms-vand,
The Vifos, or HUdalsfos, will be passed
at Hiidal farm (about 5 kil. from the
Skarsfos), and the N. end of the Sand-
vend-vand will be reached after pass-
ing one of the prettiest parts of the
vaJley. On the rt. the Tjofmadalsfos
will be passed, and, on the W. side of
the lake, the Strandefos, at Strand
farm. The blue ice-masses of the
BuarbrcB soon open out on the 1., and,
after crossing by Vashm bridge, the
traveller finds himself, after a drive
of 2^ hrs., at the Hwrdcmger hotel of
Odde^ (26 kil.) (For description,
ike, see Bte. 23.)
ROUTE 6.
CHBISTIANIA TO EONOSBEBO, Vld DBAM-
MEN AND HOUGSUND
(by rail) ;
AND TO THE BJUKANVOS AMD HIT-
TBBDAIi
(by road and str.)
[Fare, Snd ol.* expr., 6.20 kr. ; mixed train,
4.70 kr. Two trains daily in fi^ and 4^ hrs.
Distance 98 kil.]
1. Chbistianu to Eongsbbbo.
(See Bte. 4 for journey to and de-
scription of Brammen (53 kil.), wh«re
earriages are changed.)
' No Ist cL
On leaving Drammen the train
ascends the broad valley of the river of
the same name, the rt. bank of which
it partly follows, affording pretty
views to the rt., and, after passing
the old Strtfm farmhouse, pulls up at
Gulskogen (66 kil.) The next stat.
is
IQandalen (64 kil.) Lower Eker
ch, on opposite side of river.
In the distant background vKll be
seen (1.), after a short run, the Jons-
knut (2978 ft.), and, after crossing the
small Lo^lv, carriages are again
changed at
Hoagsnnd (70 kil.) Bvff. The
main line continues to Krdderen (N.)
and HiSnefos, and the Bandsfjord
(N.E.) (Btes. 7 and 9). The river,
which rises in the great Ekem lake,
is navigable up to the HeUe/os, the
last of its falls, situated not far from
the rly., although not visible from it.
Good salmon-fishing in the pool
below. Hence a branch line proceeds
S.W. through a highly cultivated and
fertile district, passing
VeBtfosBen stat. (75 kil.) Several
factories. The low rounded top of
the Jonsknut in view. Hence the line
runs along the bank of a rapid river,
issuing from the Fishmn-vand^ con-
nected with the Ekem lake, which is
bounded on the E. by high mtns.
(Strs. ply on both lakes, but irregu-
larly.) At the next stat.,
Barbo (81 kil.), will be seen the
pretty brick Gothic Ch, of Fiskum,
on the N. shore of the lake : the old
Wooden ch, standing below it. Bun-
ning next through a narrow valley,
the train reaches, still in pretty
scenery,
Krekling stat. (85 kU.) The Slmm-
fjeldene (2950 ft.) come in view, and
ihen the train stops at
SkoUenborg stat. (92 kil.), in a
sterile district. The Labrofos (gene-
rally visited from Eongsberg) is only
1 m. to the S. Pedestrians bound
for Telemarken, over the Meheien,
start from here. The train now runs
nearly N., keeping the Laagen (pro-
nounced Logen) river to the 1., and,
after passing through a wood, stops at
Route 6. — Kongsherg.
43
X0N68BEEG ^ (98 kil.) Buff. Pop.
5250.
This long, straggling town, pictu-
resquely situated on the Laagen river
(which, flowing through the Numedal
and falling into the sea at Laurvik,
here rushes like a cataract below the
bridge), bears all the characteristic
features (smoke and dirt) of a mining
district. The houses are mostly of
wood. The Ch, (1761) and the Twjsm-
hall are substantial brick buildings.
A Monument to Christian lY. com>
memorates the foundation of the
town by that soyereign.
Eongsberg owes its origin to, and is
celebrated for, the rich SUver-mineSt
belonging to the State, situated about
7 kil. W.S.W. of the town, on the
Telemarken rd.
There are also in the town a MM,
built in 1840, a Small-arms mawu-
factory. Powder-mills, and Smeltmg-
house (erected in 1845 for reducing
and refining silyer-ore and manufac-
turing cobtJt, as used in commerce).
Specimens of the silver and of the
cobalt pyrites, in the various stages
through which they pass, can be
purchased at the smelting-house. A
fine collection of the local minerals
can be seen on application at the
Mine offices in the Market-place.
Permission to visit the mines is
obtainable at the offices, but only the
specialist will oare to take the trouble.
[Except on Sat. and Sun, (and before
4 P.M.), the mines can be entered from the
Soffffrekd^ the miners' quarter of the town,
whence an ascent is made to the
Christians stott (adit), 300 ft. below the
Fredriks stall. It is followed for a dii^nce
of aboot 2 kil. to the Kongen*s Ombe, whence
the Tisitor will be glad to reach ** grass,"
without proceeding nearly a mile forther, to
the Gottes Bi^fe shaft.
The rock of the Kongdborg mining district
contaios native silrer and sulphuret of sUrer,
with copper pyrites, iron pyrites, and blende
disseminated through it ; that is to say, in
certain ranges of the strata from 1 to 60 fms.
broad. The dip of the strata to the E. is
from 50 to 80 deg. The rock in the whole
mtn. is mostly gneiss, with layers of mica and
hornblende. The principal mine (Konffen'i
Orube\ now about 2000 ft deep, is said to
have been discovered in 1623 by a shepherd,
and was first worked in 16S4 by CJhridtlan lY.
Only 4 or 5 of the mines are of importance out
of 100 that have boen opened. The famous
mass of silver, about 6 ft. long, 2 ft. broad,
and 8 in. thick, now in the Natural History
Museum at CopNenhagen, was raised in these
mines.]
Other Excursions. — The Skrim-
f jeldene (2950 ft.) are 20 kil. S. of the
town, and can be ascended in 1 day,
in combination with a look at the
Labrofos (136 ft.) and the huge Wood-
pulp miU worked by its water-power
(7 kil. from the town).
The ascent and descent of the
Jonsknut, which the traveller will
have seen from Hougsund (see above),
can be made in 6 hrs. (Guides at the
hotels, from which magnificent views.)
2. eonqsbebo to tinnosbt and the
Bjueanfos.
Engaging a conveyance at Eongs-
berg (vide Index for prices), whence
the journey can be continued
through a fine summer's night,
Tinnoset can well be reached in 11 hrs.
The road is very pretty, first along
the rt. bank of the Laagen* for about
7 tdl., and then through the wooded
Jondal (valley) to the 1. After pass-
ing Jondal Ch. the river is crossed,
and a halt made for ^ an hr. near
the Storfos, about half-way to Bolk-
esj5, the overlooking heights of which
have to be crossed at an altitude of
about 1800 ft. On the descent a
beautiful view is obtained of the lake
of
Bolkesjo, where the horses are
rested for about 2 hrs. at the excel-
lent Hotel of the same name (25 kil.
from Eongsberg), with which (as well
as with Skien) there is communica-
tion by telephone. The tops of the
Oausta, Bkfjeld, and lAfjeld mtns.
close in the &ie landscape to the W.
At a lower level than the Bolkesjd,
the great Fol^G lake adds to the
beauty of the scene, and offers good
sport (trout) to the angler. Boats
are available on those lakes to take
the traveller to Vik, 3^ hrs. walk to
Tinnoset. This is idso a very pretty
» For salmon-flahing in the Laagen, see
" Angling," in Introdvetion.
44 Route 6. — Christiania to Kongsberg and the Rjuhanfos.
excursion for those who make a stay
at Bolkesjo for health and repose.
From the hotel balcony a good view is
obtained of that part of the Lifjeld
mtns. (about 5100 ft.) on which, in
Nov. 1B70, aeronauts descended with
despatches from Paris, in 15 hrs.
Had it not been for a lucky encounter
with woodcutters (whose match-boxes
told the bewildered travellers they
had landed in Norway) they would
necessarily have perished in the
snow.
For aboujt 11 kil., as far as Vih^ the
road from Bolkesjo is bad, being both
hilly and sandy. It then becomes
good in the valley of the Tinne river,
issuing from the Tinnsjd (650 ft.)
In 2 or 3 hrs. Oransherred ch» is
reached, and the river crossed and fol-
lowed on its rt. bank along the
Hitterdal rd. to
TinnoBBt Hotels (33 kil.), where
good food and lodging will be found,
at the S. end of the lake, about 37 kil.
in length and 3 kil. in breadth. Its
sides are partly wooded, partly of a
rocky character. There is trout-fish-
mg in the river issuing from it, but
anglers should not go in a boat with-
out a local rower, the rapids being
dangerous.
A str. starts daily (except on Sun.),
when, as well as on other occa-
sions, it can be specially hired for
36 kr. (9 passengers, and 2 kr. for every
additional one) for
Strand (FagersPrand)^ which it
reaches in 2f hrs. (Dinner on board ;
ticket, 2 kr.) Stoppages are made at
a few intermediate stats. Beyond
Hovin (rt.) the mtns. rise considerably
on the W. shore, to which the str.
crosses in order to reach Busgrenden,
A glimpse of the Bleffeld is here ob-
tained. At Perskaasay on the same
side, is a Waterfall formed by the
Diger river, which issues from the
Sjaaen lake. Returning to the W.
side of the lake, the str. turns sharply
round a point on which stands
Haakenes farm, at the foot of the
mtns. of that name, and where the
scenery is finest. Entering the
Vestfjordy a small arm of the Tinnsjo,
the str. disembarks its passengers on
a pier opposite the
Fagerlund Hotel, « where convey-
ances are engaged for Foa, a poor
mtn. hamlet (22 kil.), reached in
about 3 hrs., the entire excursion to
the Bjukanfos and back being easily
feasible in 7-8 hrs. From Strand, a
road, almost level for 18 kil., ascends
thepretty 7e«t^*ord valley, partly along
the bank of the Maane river, after
passing a small Ch, near Strand. At
a distance of about 3 kil. the Midd&Ui
r. (rt.) is crossed, and Oattstaj the
highest mtn. in S. Norway (6170 ft.),
bursts into view. Passing, in the
pretty valley that faces Gkkusta, a
place called MUand, the traveller will
be taken along a level bit of road to
Nyland (England) ^ about 10 kil.
(1 hr.) from Strand, where those who
desire to ascend the Gausta will find
a small Iivn to the rt. of the road.
The ascent can be made in less than
a day (actually 6 hrs. up and 4 hrs.
down), the first stage being Svineroi
scBter^ where travellers can, if neces-
sary, be roughly accommodated.
From this point the stony summit of
the mtn. is reached in 2 hrs., but
not without fatigue. (Guide, 6 kr.) A
mtn. HiU enables those who wish to
enjoy the panorama (which is, how-
ever, not equal to expectation)- to pass
the night on Gausta.
The traveller bound for the Bjukan-
fos keeps on the road, which turns
somewhat to the rt. after passing
DaU ch, and farm. At Ingulsland
(rt.) he will be at the foot of the
steep side of the OaustahncBm, one
of the most interesting parts of the
Vestfjord valley. At Krosso the
ascent increases, and soon the build-
ings at Krokam, and the spray of the
waterfall will be visible in the dis-
tance. The Maane river will be seen
below, rushing down wildly in a suc-
cession of rapids. Then a bridge
will be crossed over the Va>a river (a
tributary from the rt.), and the drive
will end at
Vaa, Declining here the eervioes
of one of the numerous boy-guides,
the traveller follows a well-trodden,
Rente 6. — Krokan ; the Rjukanfos.
45
but partly rough, steep, and wet, path,
and reaches, in J an hr.,
Krokatit where he will find an ex>
cellent Inn^ belonging to the Tourist
Association, which has affixed to a
neighbouring rock a Marble tablet
to the memory of its founder, T. J.
Heftye, bajiker at Ghristiania.
Splendid view E. over the valley.
A path past the tablet brings the tra-
veller in a couple of minutes to the
point from which he is called upon to
admire the
^jnkanfos (the " Steaming Water-
fall "). It is considered to be one of
the finest in Europe ; for, apart from
its grand surroundings, it has a sheer
fall of about 800 ft., and when in
volume certainly presents a magnifi-
cent aspect. The effect is still more
striking from a point lower down,
which only the h^dy should attempt
to reach.
[(1) From the Bjnkan enterprising toorists
can reach the Hourdcatgerfjord^ Odde being
attainable on horseback and on foot in about
5 days, and the Vdringfos and Eidfjord (the
more difficult route) in about 4 days, entirely
on foot, with a guide (In both cases) engaged
for a fixed sum at Krokan.
(9) A small driring road leads fromErokan
to Maristieny^ where a magnificent yiew of
the Bjukan 1b obtained. The fall can be ad-
mired from FostOy a little farther on, where
pedestrians must be cautious. Following the
track, several ssBters are passed and Hollvik
reached in 8 to 6 hr& (Tolerable quarters.)
The Maane r. (the trotU-^iahing in which
partly belongs to the Bkien Tourist Asso-
ciation) issues here from the S.E. arm of the
M)9*vand (2960 ft.), which is crossed (4 ka)
in a boat to Erlangsgaard, The track thence
is indicated by posts and calms.* It runs
S.W. over marshy, uneven ground, and, later,
S.E., before resuming its orig^inal direction ;
and, after traversing some biroh-woods, passes
SifUmbulien and SOremhytta saeters, from
which a height is crossed and descended to
QibOen farm (9 kil. : 3$ hrs., from Hollvik) on
the W. arm of the di^ary-looking H jtevaod,
crossed in a boat. On the other side, the track
takes a more westerlydirectiou to Uvand^ and
passes several seeters until it runs along the
L (W.) bank of the Farhovd river, and then
across marshes to J^Smikarhougen ssBter,
continuing along the same bank of the river
(passing, among other seters, that of Finitol,
on a rivulet iaaaing from the BjGrtjBn). This
being waded (when not too full), the pedes-
trian will, in the vicinity of Qjuvland farm,
get to the Baulaud parish road,which has to be
* A road under jconstructlon here.
* The offleiBl maps are ftiulty.
followed W. to the grand Totak lake (34 kil.
in length), where quarters are obtainable at
Midgaarden (Gaard0&rd) (16 kil. : 4^ hr&,
from GibOen). From this point the ascent
of Skartmiten (about 4100 ft.) is worth
undertakLng. The Rangild/osot the BUuelv
is i\ kil. from this point. After rowing in
an hour across the lake (6 kil., 1 kr. each) a
road IB reached at Kostveit, whence the
traveller can drive to Heggntdl stat. (about
16 kil.)> on the main way over the Haukeli
to Odde (see preceding fioute).
(3) On the more difficult fruny? or horseback
journey to the VOringfo* and Bicifjord, the
first stage is to Hollvik (as above). A boat is
taken thence to lijSutrand (3^ hrs.), and to
the upper part of the Mfdnand in 3 to 4 hrs.
more. After about | an hr. walk (3 kil.)
humble quarters will be found at Mogen. On
the second day the traveller will trudge
towards the Q-juvsjb lake (N.W.), in which
the trotUing is excellent. Farther, the path
soon runs over marshy ground past 3 other
mtn.-lakes, amidst desolate scenery. To
the rt. rises the Normandtlaagen (4160 ft.)
lake. After crossing the Beisa r., which falls
into it, shelter, after much heavy walking
during about IS hrs., is obtained in a hut at
Btssabu. The night may, however, be better
spent at a fisherman's hut before reaching
that refuge. The succeeding day will be
occupied in traversing the bleak and wild
ffardang^r-viddOf partly over snow, to
BcerrasUUen (25 kit) A good path runs
(9 kiL) hence to the VSringfoi, a night's
lodging being obtainable at H61 farm, 4 hrs.
distant from EidQord (see Bte. 23).]
8. BXTXJBN TO GBBISTIANU, VlA
HlTTEBDAL.^
Taking the str. at Strand fFager-
strand)» the traveller will re-
gain his conveyanoe at Tinnoset.
The distance hence to Hitterdal is
26 kil. along a good level road, at
about half-way of which a chauss^
runs off (rt.) to Landsvcsrk (16 kil.
from Tinnoset) on the highway to
Odde, over the Haukeli (see Bte. 5).
Travellers are attracted to Hitterdal
by its grotesque Slav ch.f familiar as
the chief architectural curiosity in
Norway.
Hitterdal eh. (keys at the manse opposite)
is the largest and one of the most fmcient
and interesting buildings in Norway, of the
same period (12th cent.) and style as that at
Borgund (Bte. 8).
The situation is charming, in a broad belt
of meadow-land occupying the centre of a
wide undulating valley, the N. and S. sides of
which dope gradually towards wooded up-
lands. The ch. itself stands a little back
from the road, partially hidden by an avenue
* Spelt also HiterdaL
46
Route 7. — Ghristiania to Bandsfjord.
of trees, and in the centre of a grass-grown
churchyard, which is separated from the
roadway by a low stone wall pierced by 2
red-tiled, roofed gateways.
The building is entirely of pine, and the
exterior, owing to a frequent coating of
pitch, is of one uniform dark-red, tan colour,
the roof and walls being overlaid with
shingles, those of the roof rounded at their
lower edge, the rest tooth-shaped. The
general outline is picturesque, increased by
the curious covered way running round the
entire ch., and the fantastic gabled central
tower, B. of which, at lower elevations, rise
2 spires surmounting the chancel and the
apse.
Three projecting gabled doorways on the
S.W. and N. sides of the exterior gallery
give access to the ch., the body or nave of
which is about 40 ft. sq., with a flat ceiling.
The B. end is prolonged by an oblong chancel
of about 30 ft. by 26 ft., terminated by a semi-
circular apse some 12 ft. In diameter, making
a total length and width of 84 ft. by 57 ft.
The S. door of the exterior gallery is the
only one still bearing traces of the ancient
carving, and Mr. Fergusson, in his Hand-
book of Architecture, suggests that the
panels may once have been adorned by
Runic carving, which, as they decayed, have
been replaced by plain timbers, detracting
much from the original appearance. The
restorations made in 1850 have also greatly
tended to deteriorate the character of the
building.
The interior (in which details of Anglo-
Norman architecture will be observed in the
capitals of pillars and in the mouldings) is
painted throughout of a light straw colour,
with darker grained pillars, and the blank
windows painted a bright green, elaborate
dragon and snake carving filling up the
spaces between the circular arches and the
windows, most of which are modem.
A gallery runs round 3 sides of the quad-
rangular nave, broken at the "W. end by the
principal interior doorway, the sides of
which between the gallery stairs are carved
in a remarkably fentastic way. Above the
gallery are modem, plain glass window8,with a
little colour introduced in the red, star-shaped
centres. A carved wooden pulpit stands at
the S.B. comer on a level with the gallery.
In the archway connecting nave and
chancel are openings to the sacristy, Ac. ;
and an arcade, supported by 2 disengaged
pillars, ornaments the sides of the chancel,
in the centre of which is a plain grained
wooden font in front of the altar-rails, which
separate the chancel from the semicircular
apse, the centre of which is occupied by the
altar, covered by a red altar-cloth, dated
1723, and surmounted by a large green and
gold cross. Behind the altar is an ancient
episcopal throne (or seat) ornamented with
carved figures of horsemen, dragons' heads,
and old Norwegian designs. Small lozenge-
shaped windows are perforated in the sides of
the chancel and at the back of the apse. The
ceiUng is an Innovation, and replaces the
original open roof. , ._. ^
Some curious carving and a picture of
the Crucifixion, which formerly decorated the
altar, now hang in the sacristy.
On the opposite side of the way is an open
wooden, gable-roofed Belfry, about 30 ft. in
height, and in the same style as the chu
The traveller need not tarry more
than i hr. in visiting this curious
edifice. He will then continue his
journey along a good road, passing,
after 1 kil., the old Lysth/us posUng-
stat, and, if time permit, he can
stop the carriage at the iron Ely.
bridge over the Tinne river, and walk
up its rt. bank to the Tmn-fos^ which
works a large Saw-mill^ returning
along the tramway on the 1. bank in
I an hr. ; but the same way back is
shorter. At about 7 kil. from Hitter-
dal, the carriage will be left at Notod-
den, ^ or at Tangen pier, on Hitterdal
lake, from which strs. run to XJlefos
(2^ hrs.) and Skien (see beginning of
Boute).
ROUTE 7.
CHBISTIANIA TO BANDSFJOKD, Vtd
HOUOSUND AND H0NEF08.
(By rail.)
[Distance, 143 kil. ; time, about 6 hn. ; fare,
expr. 7.10 kr.]
(For journey to Hougsund, see
Bte. 6.)
From Hougsund (where carriages
wiU have been changed) the train
continues to run up the pretty vaUey
of the Drammen river, full of small
falls and rapids and frequently
crossed. The DOviksfos will be
passed at
Skotselven stat. (80 kiL), while
passing to the otherside of tne river.
At the next stat.,
Aamot (86 kil.), will be seen on the
Route 7. — Honefos; Heen; Bandsfjord.
47
opposite (rt.) bank, amidst pretty
Boenery, a waterfall formed by the
Simoa (issuing from Sigdal) at its
junction with the Drammen, crossed
by a suspension-bridge. After pass-
ing Embretsfos and Qjeithus paper-
mills and the mouth of the Snarumy
coming down from Lake Erdderen and
the Hallingdal, the train draws up at
Gjeithns (92 kil.), rt. bank ; Heggen
ch,, and Modum inanse, to rt. A very
short run brings the train to
VikerBnnd (96 kU.; Buff,), from
which is a short branch to Erdderen
(see Bte. 9). Here the Drammen r.
ti^es its rise in the Tyrifford (see
" Excursions," Bte. 1). At a distance
of about 5 kil. is St Olafs (Modmm)
hydropathic establishment, « beauti-
fully situated in a park, affording pic-
turesque views, and in which is the
Kaggefos, formed by the Snarum or
Hallingdal river (Moderately good
trout-fishing in it.) The "Modum
bath " is a place of great resort in sum-
mer, and most beneficial to invalids
in the stage of convalescence, and in
affections of the throat and chest.
Hence the train runs along the W.
shore of the Tyrifjord, the best views
of the lake and of the W. slopes of
the Krokskog (with the rounded tops
of the Oyrihatigen, 2217 ft., and the
Bvngkollmt 2266 ft.) being to the rt.
Nakkemd stat. (105 kil.) and
SlgsBTdalen stat. (Ill kil.), still on
the Tyrifjord. Str. hence to Stmd-
volden on opposite side of lake (see
" Excursions," Bte. 1). The "Binger-
ike nickel-mines " are close by. At
Ask stat. (118 kil.) the line leaves
the lake behind, and runs on to
Honefos «(124kil.) Buff, This town
(1250 inhabitants) is named after the
great Waterfall formed by the Aadals
river, which rises in Lake Spirillen and
unites here with the Bands-elv, issu-
ing from the Bandsf jord. When com-
bined, these streams form the Stor-elVy
falling into the Tyrifjord. The fall
is not, however, imposing except
after a flood (May or June) or during
a rainy summer. Its several branches
drive manysawand flour mills. Views
from a bridge over the 2 rivers above
the town, and from the 2 bridges
within it. A walk of about 1 hr.
brings the visitor to the beautiful
HbfsfoSy by a road along the 1. bank
of the river. The Sivenfos, a smaller
fall, is a little higher up. The hotel
at Honefos is a favourite resort botii
of aliens and natives, and some days
may well be spent here. The walks
and drives in the neighbourhood are
charming, and the trout-fishing not
contemptible. A trip to the Ringkol
above-mentioned (partly driving and
partly on horseback in 5 hrs.) is re-
commended on account of the fine
view it affords of the Ringerihe, Per-
mission to fish in the adjacent lake
obtainable at the hotel. Information
respecting several other charming ex-
cursions will be given on the spot.
The stat. beyond is
Heen^ {131 kil.) Str. hence up
Lake Spirillen (Yalders: Bte. 10).
Posting-stat. To the 1. will be seen
the Norefjeldy frequently covered with
snow. The line bends suddenly to
the E.,past the Bbjaas (1500 ft.) and
the Ashelihoug mtn. (1400 ft.), and
through districts partly wooded and
scantily populated, before reaching
the BandseVoy which it follows up to
EAKDSPJOED ^ (142 kil. ; Buff,),
where the river issues from the great
lake of that name. (For description
and journey beyond, see next Boute.)
48
Route 8. — Ch/risiiama to Bergen.
BOUTE 8.
CHBISTIANIA TO BEBaEN, vid BANDS-
FJOBD, VALDEBS, THE FILLEFJELD,
AND UEBDAIiSOBEN (BOONE FJOBD).
(By rail, str., and road.)
[Bergen oftn be reached from Ohiistiania
by 8 other routes, uniting at Leerdal-
soren— tIz. the roads running seyerally trom
Lakes Erbderen, Spirillen, and Mj'dsen (Btes.
9, 10, and 12), but the route here described, al-
though a little longer, is to be preferred for
its greater beauty and interest.]
Dist. Time dost
Ul. about kr.
Ohristlanla to BandsQord
by rail (Ete. 7) . . 14» 6 hra. 7.10
Bandsfjord to Odnvse by
str. (Bte. 8) . . 72 6J hra. 6.
Odnaas to LierdalsSren by
roiid(Rte.8) . . 220» S-8dy8.46.
Lssrdalsbren to Bergen
by str. (Bte. 26) . . 280 20 hrs. 12.40
Total . . 664 4-6 dys. 69.60
Posting.— ¥oT a stolkjflBrre (2
persons) the rate is 25 6, per kU.
exclusive of gratuities (15 o. per
10 kil.), but only 17 6. per kil.
for a carriole. One of Bennett's
vehicles recommended at a small
extra charge. Apply at Christiania or
Bandsfjord, or at Odnses on reverse
journey. The charge for a carriage
(2 or 8 persons) is 110-130 kr. ;
gratuity, 5 kr.
[A carriage for 2 persons can also be
bargained for, the local drivers taking 66-70
kr. When horses are engaged for the entire
distance, only about 60 kJL can be done in
1 day ; whereas by taking a relay at each stat.,
about 7 kiL can be accomplished per hour, or
80 kU. per day in the middle of the summer.
JHl. (for 4-6) starts daily. Fare, 84 kr.
Luggage : 40 lbs. allowed. Seats should be
secured in advance, as those conveyances, as
well as the stats, at which they stop for
Pay for 238 kiL
meals and for the night, are often fall at the
height of the tourist season.
The freight of a carriole on board the
Bandsfjord str. is 2.40 kr., and of a carriage
4 to 6 kr.]
(For the journey to Bandsfjord, see
Bte. 7.)
The BandflQord (45 kil. long, with
a maximum width of 4 kil., and
426 ft. above sea-level) is one of
the longest lakes in Norway and
the fifth in area (about 53 sq. m.)
It is separated on the E. from the
Mjdsen by a mtn.-ohain, and on the
W. from the Spirillen by another
ridge of about the same height (1650-
2300 ft.) The populous and fertile
district by which it is bordered on
the S. is called Hadeicmdf and that
at the N. extremity of the lake, Land,
In most parts the Bandsfjord, which
does not offer any great variety of
scenery, is more like a river than a
lake.
1. By Str. from Bandsfjord to
OdruBs.
The sl/r.y on board which excellent
meals are provided, stops at about
10 piers on its way to Odnses. Soon
after leaving the Bandsfjord river (fre-
quently obstructed by logs) it passes
the Hadelands Glass-workSt where
it crosses over to the W. side of the
lake. On the opposite flat shore are
several large farms, Jcevndker ch., and
Velo (on an eminence), the residence
of the district judge. Betuming to
the £. shore, the str. stops at
Boenlandet, Elvetangen, and
Hangslandet. A little beyond the
latter stat. a glimpse of the SOlvsberg
wiU be obtained, and then the Hvate-
hyhcmvpen (2493 ft.) will be seen
before reaching the prettily situated
stat. of
Eokenyiken (nearly 2 hrs. from
Bandsfjord). King Halfdan the
Black (a.d. 860) was drowned while
crossing the ice to this place. The
Brandhukol rises behind the large
farmhouses that will be passed. A
short distance beyond the Ch. and
Route 8. — Tonsaasens Sanatorium ; Frydenlund. 49
tanna of Nes (ri.) the widest part of
the lake is reached. The str. next
stops on the £. shore at
BenteboUet on the W. side of
which towsrs the Skjyktiaaa.
In about 20 min. alter crossing to
the W. side, the pier at BjonerHen is
reached. A road (about 11 Ml.) runs
hence to the SpirUlen lake, passing
the W. and E. Bj<mevand lakes.
In J an hr. the str. stops at
Sand, on the E. side of the lake.
Enger ch, not far. Soon after, a
stoppage is made at
Bi/ngelien, on the W. shore, and
next, in about 4 hrs. from Bandsf jord,
at
Faldsvandet on the E. side. In
10 min. more the str. reaches
Sofj where a Ch. and Middle-
school house will be seen. A. road
and footpath hence to Vestre Toten,
whence a good road to Sivesind, run-
ning to W, Toten, mosen lake, and
Gjiyvik (see Bte. 12).
Fluberg, 6 hrs. from ^andsfjord.
The Ch. (of S. Land), set off by weep-
ing birches, will be seen on the rt.
Entering the northernmost bay of
the lake, surrounded by pretty mtn.
slopes, the 2 principal valleys of
N. Land open out on the 1., whilst
to the rt. the road to Gjovik (see
Bte. 12) comes down to Oranum
posting-stat. The str. is next moored,
in about 5| hrs., at
OdnsBS. « (For conveyances hence,
see head of Boute, and apply to
Bennett's agent.)
2. OdncBS to Lc&rdalsGren by Rood,
When the str. arrives early in the
evening, it is advisable to post on at
once to
Tomlevolden stat. (17 kil., about
2 hrs.), a typical Norwegian farm-
house affording good accommodation.
Free trout-fishing here and in the
Etna river.
At Hdljerasten (7 kil.) the Etna
r. is crossed (a fine view of its valley
opening out from the bridge), and the
Valders district is soon after entered.
At Trondhjemy where a short halt is
[Norway— yi. 92.]
made, a long ascent begins. After this
has become somewhat less steep, the
level summit is reached at
Sveen stat. (17 kil., pay for 18),
a small but comfortable stat. on the
N.E. side of the Tonsaas. In summer,
first sight of snow is here obtained,
with a beautiful view of the Etna
valley, alongside of which is that of
the Bcegna,
[Tonsaasens Sanatorium^ (1970
ft.) is 3 kil. beyond, and 5 hrs. drive
from OdnaBS. A highly salubrious
and much frequented hydropathic
resort. A dU, runs to it. Beautiful
views, and many pretty walks and ex-
cursions to be made. FishiTig and
shooting. Boats on the lake. Postt
telegraphy and telephone. At a dis-
tance of 6 kil. from Sveen, and 3
kil. W. of Tonsaasen, is the Breid-
ablik Hotel and Pension « (on the
Spirillen route), also beautifully situ-
ated, and a pleasant resting-place.
Views of the Jotuuheim mtns. and of
a splendid waterfall.]
At a distance of 5^ kil. from the
Sanatorium, the summit of the road,
which has been running between
smaJl lakes, bogs, and pine-woods,
will be attained at an altitude of
about 2070 ft. A magnificent view
hence of the mtn. land between
Valders and HaUingdal, some of the
peaks (over 7000 ft.) of the southern-
most chain of the Jotunfjelds being
seen 96 kil. to the rt.
In fine, sunny weather a panorama,
unsurpassable for grandeur, will be
enjoyed by taking a path to the 1. (5
min.) Descending the valley of the
Bcegna river, where the Spirillen
route to Valders unites (Bte. 10), the
traveller arrives at
Frydenlnnd stat.* (18 kil., pay
for 23), in Nord/re Au/rdal, where very
good accommodation will be found.
This is a populous hamlet, serving
as an administrative and judicial
centre. Aurdal ch. close by. A
grand view from the hill above the
stat. Game abundant.
[Junction with road to and from Spirillen
lake, vid Fjeldheim (Bte. 10), a mtu.-road
60
Route 8. — Ch/ristiama to Berg&n.
(nearly S days on foot ; guide^ 30 kr.) ; also
hence to Viko (Rolf shut) on the Hallingdal
(Kr<)deren) route to Laerdaladren (Rte. 9).
The following places will be passed : Hovcy a
pretty summer Pensiorit where hare and elk
shooting is obtainable ; Ol^'den ZaiEr<;(in2 hrs.),
crossed in a boat supplied from Hove. At the
S. end of the lake PardU sceter^ also a Pen-
sion ; SSndre market, or Sinderlien, on the
Titleia r. ; Vcuet sceter (3 J hrs.) ; Sanderstdlen
(4^ hrs.), a summer Pension (fair accommo-
dation), with good ptarmigan - shooting in
autumn ; Mone sceter (6 hrs.) After trudging
over some bogs, a road will be reached at
Brauiemo sceter (8^ hrs.) ; and in about 3 hrs.
more the traveller can be at Bolf shus.]
Continuing the Yalders route along
a tolerably level road running high
above the BcBgnaj the source of that
river in the Aurdalsfjord (one of a
series of long lakes) will be reached.
Fine view from Onstady before passing
the District prison. Beyond, to the
rt., is the fine Fosbraaten waterfall,
while to the 1. will be heard the roar
of the Veslefos (frequently visited
from FagemsBs). After driving about
3 kil. along the beautiful Stravdefjord
(1148 ft. above sea-level, and about
21 kil. long) a halt is made at
FagemsBB^ (13 kil.), on the lake
and at the mouth of the Nczs river.
Excellent accommodation. A few
days can well be spent here, the
scenery being very beautiful, and
attractive to artists. Fine trout to
be caught in the lake and neigh-
bouring streams, and dtick-shooting
obtainable.
[Fagemses is a favourite starting-place
for an excursion to the Jotunheim mtns. (For
description, see Rte. 11.) The posting will
be : On the Ostre Slidre road to Rogne, 17
ML ; to Skammestein, 17 kil. ; and to Beito,
11 kil. Thence on horseback (3.50 kr.) to
Raufjordheim Itotel (11 kil.), on the shore
of Lake Bygdin, from the opposite side of
which the mtns. can be ascended. The car-
riageable road runs on from Skammestein
to the Vinstervand lakes.^
Crossing the Ncbs river (with pic-
turesque cataracts), the shore of the
lake is kept, passing the wooden Ch.
of SvencBS. A bend in the valley
soon opens out a grand view of the
Jotunheim mtn. and its peaks. At
UlnaBS Ch, a bridge crosses the lake
to Steiende, where a river falls into
it. Beautiful views ; many large
farmhouses. The N. end of the lake
will be reached at
Fosheim^ (15 kil.) Gk>od quarters
at the Fosheim ssBter, 1^ hr. from
Fosheim. The pretty Fosheim-fos is
close to the stat. Beyond, the road
soon runs along the SUdrefjord (1237
ft.) To the rt. is the wooden Ch. of
Boent with an old belfry. A standard
ell-measure is attached to the ch. door
by a quaint ring of entwined dragons ;
and the interior is also worthy of in-
spection. Beautiful landscape, ter-
minating on the W. by the mtns. in
Yang district, of which the Bergsfjeld
will be seen first.
[The road mentioned above as leading to
the Jotan mtns. branches off here.]
On the 1. will be passed JSande
(4 kil.), where travellers can be
accommodated. Farther along the
lake, which at one point contracts
for a short distance, the scenery
attains its greatest beauty. By the
side of the road is the brick Ch» and
Belfry of Vestre Slidre, with the Par-
sonage beyond. A road runs off here
to dstre Slidre (see above).
[At about 6 m. from Yestre Slidre ch., and
before reaching the crest of the hlU, on the
Ostre Slidre rd., the KvitfiSvd eminence can
be reached by a path to the rt. in about \ an
hour. Splendid views here of the W. and
E. Slidre valleys, of the Bitihorfi (5364 ft.),
and of snow-clad mtns. N. of the Bygdin and
Vinster lakes. A very short way to the W.,
where the Kalvaahdgda rises to a height of
7150 ft., another very extensive survey of
elevated mtns. can be enjoyed.]
At a very short distance from Yestre
Slidre will be passed first the attrac-
tive Hotel and Pension Ei/nang (at
Volden), where horses and carriages
are procurable, and then (rt. ; gate
and private road) the dlken Hotel and
Pension (much frequented by invalids
and tourists), beautifully situated
about 300 ft. above Strande lake.
Beyond, again, is the Husaker Pen-
sion, The Kvithbvd (see above) can
be conveniently ascended from these
summer resorts in 3 hrs. (both ways).
Fine view of the Slidrefjord, or upper
part of Lake Strande, obtained from
the Kvale ridge, after descending
which travellers reach the stat. of
Route 8. — Loken ; Oilo ; Chrindaheim ; Skogstad. 61
Loken 3t( (14 kil.), where there is
a large and excellent hotel. Good
trout-fishing in Lake Slidre, olose to
the hotel. From the Ldkensherg (15
min. walk), a fine view opens oat,
although a better one is obtained by
riding (1| hr.) or walking (2 hrs.) to
the top of KvUh&od (3363 ft.)
Ascent for view to be recommended.
About 5 kil. on the road to the next
stat. is the fine Lofos, a fall of the
Bcpgna, the 1. bank of which will be
followed through scenery more or less
wooded. Crossing that river and pass-
ing (12 kil.) Vangsnc&s hotel (fair
accommodation for summer boarders
and others), beyond which (on the
rt.) is a valley whence issues the
Rysna (the Baufjord being accessible
hence), the traveller is driven over a
bridge spanning the Ala river to
OUo stat. (15 kil.) Very good
accommodation and food. In the
upper storey of the house (grandly
situated) are sketches and paintings
on the walls, by elder and later Nor-
wegian artists who have frequented
Oilo. Pretty view of Lake Vangs-
mjosen (1528 ft.) from a hill at the
back of the stat. Within an hour the
Htigakol can be climbed for a wider
survey.
The lake (about^ 21 kil. long) is
soon reached from Dilo and followed
(on the S. shore) for a considerable
distance. Bounding a promontory,
from which will be seen the mtns.
that tower above the lake, the road
runs past the Kvamsklev ('* Ravine
Cliff "), where it is partly roofed in,
to protect it against the fall of rocks
and stones. The road is a splendid
piece of workmanship (formerly one
of the worst in Norway), and rises,
partly in zigzags, along the face
of perpendicular cliffs, and amidst
scenery of wonderful grandeur, being,
in fact, the most striking of any
scenery on the Valders route. To
the 1. will be seen rising in a solitary
group, the Orindadti mtns. (Grinde-
fjeld top, 5364 ft., can be ascended
in 4 to 7 hrs.), and in the centre of
the landscape the steep Skudshom.
Becoming level, the road runs past
the wooden Ch. of Fangf, which now
replaces the ancient Sta/o ch.^ sold
to the King of Prussia in 1844 for 18Z.,
and set up by him on the Hochsberg
in Silesia. In front of it, leaning
against the churchyard wall, is a
Stone, with the Runic inscription :
** The sons of Gk>sa erected this stone
to the memory of Gkmar.^'
Driving past the old stat. of Tune
i Vang, this stage ends at
Orindaheim (Vang) * (10 kil.) Tele-
phone. Beautiful views from the hotels
of the VangsmjOs lake; The Grinde-
f jeld can be ascended hence, with a
guide and by a good walker, in 4 hrs.
Saddle-horse also procurable at the
stat., where herds of Reindeer may
occasionally be seen.
[At a little distance from Tane a magnifl-
oent track, partly cut out of the rook, turns
off to the 1. across the mtns ., and past several
fine lakes, into the Krtideren (ffallingdal)
route to Lserdals'dren (Bte. 9). A hard day's
journey.]
The road continues along the
shore of Lake Vangsmjds (bounded
on the N. by peculiar and impos
ing mt'n.-turrets), which is left at
Oie ch. (12 kil.), whence there is a
mtn.-path to Nystuen on the Fillef jeld
(J a day's walk). The Elvlunfos is
near the ch. The lesser Strandefjord
lake is then skirted before crossing
a small stream and reaching, in 2^
hrs.,
Skogstad stat. (17 kil.), 1883 ft.
Good accommodation. This is also
a good starting-point for the Jotun-
heim mtns. Trout-fishing in the
neighbourhood and in the Tyi/n
vand (12 kil.) From the Homtmd
(4620 ft.), opposite the stat. (3-4 hrs.)
a grand panoramic view of the Jotun
mtns. is obtained. Ascent strongly
recommended.
[Tracks for pedestrians between this stat.
and the next to the Jotun mtns., A.ardal,
on the Lysterfjord (Sogn), the Bygdin lahe^
Ac]
Here the ascent of the Fillefjeld
will be commenced, after recrossing
the small stream already mentioned,
the road soon becoming in some
places uncomfortably steep. The
52
Route 8. — Christiania to Bergen.
daseent in the reverse direction is
natunJly still less pbasant. Vegeta-
tion beoomes very scanty, and stunted
birch and mtn.-willow are almost the
only trees yisible. The wood of the
mtn.-biroh is beautilolly veined, and
is extensively used in Norway lor
furniture and knick-knaoks.
The barren and dreary plateau of
the FiUeffeld is attained some dis-
tance before arriving (in 1} hr.) at
Nystuen stat. (11 kil., pay for
17 both ways). (Alt. 3168 ft.) Gk)od
resting-place when not overcrowded.
[A splendid view of the snow-clad Jottin
intns. (36 kil. distant) and of several Olaeiert
-iirill be obtained by an hour*8olimb to the top
of the hill to the rt. of the rood above the
stat. In clear weather a wild and grand
vista of lofty peaks and crags, including the
QaUUapig (8397 ft.), the highest mtn. in
Norway and in the N. of Snrope. Parts of
the lofty Horunger also come into view.
The ascent in question (strongly recom-
mended even to ladies who are good walkers)
can be more conveniently made from a point
^ kil. on the road to the next stat^ whence
a small path has to be olimbed along the
eastern side of a stream. Two or 8 hrs. are
sufficient.]
The stat. is at the foot of the steep
Siugtmda (4690 ft.) and at the W.
«)xtremity of the Uirovand lake.
GK>od fishing in the lake below and
in the river between this stat. and the
next. The flavour of the trout is
celebrated, and they run to 2 and 3
lbs. in the river. Before reaching the
stat. travellers will observe the fine
examples of "perched blocks '* on the
edge of the ridges that run parallel
to, and high above, the road. The
Government contributes towards the
maintenance of this stat., or ** Fjeld-
stue" (Alpine hospice). The nar-
rower sides of the bailoings face the
W. in order to present as little sur-
face as possible to winter storms
from the westward.
From Nystuen the road runs along
the tJtrovand and ascends a long
hill, and, reaching its highest point
(3295 ft.), descends to the Smeddal,
The old, shorter road (^ an hr. to the
1.) is more interesting, and should be
walked by pedestrians for fine mtn.
views. The scenery is not invit-
ing until the pillar marking the
boundary between Norway on the £.
side of tiie f jeld and Norway on the
W. side is reached. It also shows
where the ecoles. provs. of Hamar
and Bergen are conterminous. Skirt-
ing the 2 Smeddal lakes (3116 ft.)
in the vall^of that name, the region
of the birch is reached, and the fiirst
eaters of the Sogne passed {Bru-
scBter, 3240ft.) A short drive through
a birch-wood, with the torrent of ti^e
nascent Lcerddl river below, soon
ends at
Xaristuen (17 kil., pay for 22 in
reverse direction). Hotel and Sanato-
rium excellent, amidst scenery which,
although still of a bleak character, is
more pleasing than that at Nystuen ;
while, notwithstanding the height of
the stat. (2675 ft.), the air, infiuenced
by sea-breezes from theW., is palpably
warmer, though still bracing. The
stat. was foxmded as a feldstue
about the year 1300, and became
private property only in 1847. Trout-
flshvng (good in a lake 5 kil. off) and
also ptamUgan-shooting available.
[The StOetind (5818 ft) can be asoended and
descended without difficulty or danger in
6 hrs., and a third of the way can be done on
horseback. In clear weather 100 of the Jotun
peaks are visible from the rounded summit,
as well as the Jdstedqly Folg^onn^ and other
minor snow-fields or glaciers.
A mtn.-path leads, in 12\ hrs^ to Famke
in Hallingdal (Rte. 9). From the old road
the Svarteberg (4330 ft.) can be climbed in
1\ hr. from Maristuen.]
From Maristuen the road keeps
close along the banks of the Lcerdals-
elv (about 200 ft. below it) through a
magnificent pass. Enormous masses
of rock, fallen in many places from
the mtns. above, add to the effect of
the scenery, and one of the most
attractive districts in Norway is now
entered, aboxmding in legend and
romance. The vidley, hemmed in
by huge rooky masses, appears at
times to allow of no further progress.
Several small streams and Water-
falls are passed on the way to the
next stat., the Bakkefos being more
particularlv noticeable. At Borh
bridge (2 kil. from the next stat.)
Route 8. — Hwg j Borgund Ch. ; Husum.
53
the Erdderen (HaUingdal) road joins
the chau8s4e to Lserdalsdren. Great
damage was done in 1873 at Borlo
by landslips, whioh are frequent in
the Lffirdal valley. The latter widens,
and, passing the MarkeddU river,
whioh runs down from the 1., the
stage ends at
HflBg (11 kil., pay for 17). Very
good accommodation and food. An
ancient upright Stone wiU be seen a
little below the stat., near whioh is
also a fine waterfall (Hcegfos),
where fairly good trotU-fiahing is
available. An excursion (6 hrs.) can
be made (with a guide) to the Bringe
mtn. (5606 ft.) from a meadow at the
back of the stat., of which the situa-
tion is very romantic. Ascent steep,
but can be effected even by ladies
accustomed to climbing. No danger,
except in wet weather. Extensive
view of snow-clad mtns.
On leaving this stat. the traveller
drives through the grandest scenery
of the Laardsd, one of the finest valleys
in Norway. The excellent road con-
tinues to descend, the LsBrdal's tor-
rent thundering close alongside, l^e
falls and cascades whi(di that stream
forms between the Fille-f jeld- and the
Sogne-f jord are very numerous, and
afford fine subjects for the pencil.
Some of the peasants* cottages are
particularly picturesque. They are
built of stout beams on foundations
of rock, generally 1 storey high,
with a gallery outside when in upper
storey is added. The roofs are con-
structed of planks overlaid witii birch-
bark covered with turf. Birch and
alder and browsing goats are com-
monly seen upon them.
After passing (1.) Kvamme farm
(whence there is a mtn.-path to Aarddlt
at the head of the Sogne-fjord), at
abouV 10 kil. from Heg, the traveller
should stop at the Kirkevold hotel
(good) in order to visit (close by on
the road) the
Boii^[tiiid o&., now disused, and of whioli
the keys are kept at the hotel This most
singular and interesting edifice, one of the
two (see Hitterdaly Bte. 6) oldest stav chs.
(and the best preserred) in Norway, is sup-
pOMd to have been built in the 11th cent., for
the arches and the apse are seanioircular,
and it has all the characters of the style of a
small German Bomanesqne ch., so far as it
can be imitated in wood. It is of very strange,
fantastic design, with oarred dragon's-head
termlnUs to the numerous gables, whioh givt
it almost a Burmese aspect. Built of pine, it
is protected from the weather l^ coats of
pitch. The nave measores only 89 ft, the
circular apse 16 by (4. A low passage, about
8 ft. wide, runs round the exterior of the
body of the oh. The interior is almost dark^
for light has aocess only by the smaU round
holes above the waU& There are JRunie in-
teriptions on the W, door, made by "Thorer**
. . . **on St Olaf s fisdr-day," and recording
that *'thl8 Ohnroh is on Chnroh Oround."
The belfry, partly restored in the 17th cent^
stands apiui;. It is covered with shingle,
like the mtoy roofa of the oh. The bell
within it is dedicated to **Sanotas Lauren-
cius," but bears no date.
After inspecting the ch. (in J an
hr.> travellers are reoommeaded ta
walk about 300 yds., up the hill, into
the old romantio road whioh runs
over Vimdhelle HiU to the next stat.,
which can thus be reached in about
the same time (| an hr.) as the con-
veyance will take to accomplish the
distance (4 kiL) by the new road to
Husum, which deseeinUi through a
ravine. The entrance to tiiis should,
however, be first inspected, the scenery
being grand, and includes the fine
Svarkgi^waterfaU, Windmgthrough
the picturesque road, the end of the
stage is reached at
Husnm (13 kil.) Excellent ac-
commodation and food. Good trout
and salmon flshmg rbest in August).
This is the centre of the finest scenery
in the Lsrdal valley, and many
channing excursions can be made,
notably (in 4-6 hrs.) to the top of the
Nonhaug on the L oank of tiie river,
where a magnificent view of the
Hortmger peaks will be obtained.
The Okkm (5684 ft.) is also ascended
from here. Aa/rdal can be reached
in a day by a mtn.-path through the
Lysnedah A very interesting part
of the old road can be walked down
to the narrow passage between great
boulders that bears the name of
gt, Olaf 8 Klemme.
The road now followed runs, along
the rt. bank of the river, which is next
crossed by a stone brid^. Not far
54
Route 9. — ChHstiania to Bergen,
henoe will be passed the Oigars/oSy
the river being still followed, partly
under overhanging rocks, although
an older road runs over the Seltaas.
On the opposite side of the river is the
frightfully steep old parallel roads to
which the name of Galdeme is given.
The oldest (rt.) dates from the middle
ages. Beyond, the river is recrossed,
and a pretty Waterfall passed. The
river to the rt. comes down from the
Lysnedal, On the top of the rocks
to the rt. is a stone resembling an
owl in form. After a considerable
descent the pass opens out into a
broad, fertile valley, and at a short
distance 1. of the road is
Blaaflaten (15 kil.) Very good ac-
commodation. Salmon caught here.
On the level road down the valley, in
which traces of many landslips and
avalanches will be noticed, the small
B&afos (1.) will be passed, and the river,
no longer so rapid, will be crossed.
After passing Tiynjum ch.j and ob-
taining a view of the AaJcen — some-
what like the Gausta2(Telemarken) in
shape — the road at last turns sharply
to the N., past LcerdalsGren ch,y and
terminates at
LABDALSbBEir « (LcerdaJ) (11
kil.) For description and continua-
tion of journey to Bergen, see Sec-
tion U., Bte. 26.
ROUTE 9.
GHBISTIANIA TO BERaEN, vid KBODEREN,
HAIiUNODAIi, AND LiBBBAIiSOBEN.
(By rail, str., and road.)
[This is an altematiye, slightly shorter,
route, to be chosen by those who are already
acquainted with the scenery in Yalders. The
stats, on it are not as good as those in Bte. 8,
but improvements are in progress. Laerd^-
bren can be reached in 2 to 3 days through
■•-■^"***"6'*"*»
Dist Time
Cost
kil. about
kr.
Christiania to Krbderen,
by rail.
122 7 hrs.
6.40
Krbderen to G-ulsvik, by
Butt ....
40 8 hrs.
3.40
Qulsvik to LBBrdalsbren,
byroad
207 2-3 dys.
38.
LsBrdalsbren to Bergen,
by str, ....
230 20 hrs.
13.40
Total .
599 4-5 dys.
59.20
Posting. — Bates as in Bte. 8. Carriage
(apply at Bennett's) for 2 persons, 100 kr. ex-
cluslre of gratuity (6-6 kr.) Freight of car-
riole, 9.88 kr. ; of carriage, 10.88 kr.]
The rly. journey to Vikersund (96
kil.) — Buff'i and change of carriage —
has been described in Bte. 7. The
stats, beyond are
Hcere (101 kil.); HoU (104 kil.);
Snarum (108 kil.) ; and Ula (113 kil.)
The branch line (26 kil.) then
reaches its terminus at
Kroderen (122 kil.) Buff. Toler-
able accommodation opposite stat.,
at the S. end of LaJce Eroderen
(433 ft. above sea-level, 40 kil. long,
and about 15 sq. m. in area). Some
beauty is imparted to the lake (on 1.)
by the Norefjeld (4953 ft.), which is
often covered with snow in the early
part of the summer.
Boute 9. — Quhvik ; Nms ; Viko.
55
At about 10 min. walk from the
stat. is the pier, at which travellers
embark on board the str. that mns
in connection with the train, and on
board of which a good dinner will be
found ready. Steaming through shal-
low water, with a pleasant, fairly
cultivated landscape on either hand,
the narrow Skinnestmd, leading into
the Raaenfjordf will soon be passed.
Another narrow channel (a river),
called the Noresundf will be entered
before passing Olberg (good quarters),
after which the str. reaches the
Noresimdj where the Norefjeld will
be in full view. There are mtn.
roads from Olberg to Sigdal and
Eggedal, and a cha/ussie to HUnefos
(Bte. 7). It is also, next to Norre
(where the post-road crosses the lake),
the best starting-point for an ascent of
the Norefjeld (in about 10 hrs.) From
Ghristiania, this is the first oppor-
tunity of obtaining a view of the
grander mtn. -ranges and peaks of
Norway.
Above the Noresund the lake widens,
and the Blodfjeld (2965 ft.) will be
seen. After several stoppages, the
str. reaches the end of its voyage at
QnlBvik, « at the outfall of the Hal-
lingdal liver. The posting-stat (good
night quarters) is about 1^ kil. from
the pier. The ascent of the Norefjeld
may also be made from here. Driving
up the valley of the Hallingdal along
a level road, the stage ends at
Aavestrud (Flaa) (14 kil.) Good
quarters, and also at Vik (10 kil. from
Gulsvik). Between this and the next
stat., the river expands into lakes, on
the largest of which {Bromma) is
BdrtruBS (17 kil.) Beyond, the
road is partly hewn out of the side
of the Beta mtn., high above the
lake. Passing the District cA., the
horses are pulled up at
Nfles « (11 kil.) Good quarters.
Becommended to those who push on
from Gulsvik (in about 6 hrs.) This
hamlet is the administrative centre
of Hallingdal, with a gaol and many
shops.
[On the reverse route, the river can be
descended hence to Gnlsvi^ by boat (without
danger when the water Is not low) in about
3 hrs. (8-10 kr.) There are mtn.-roadB hence
to Valuers (about 1 day), to NumedcU (6-8
hrs.), and, without a guide, to Lake Spirillen
(1-2 hrs.) Trout-fishing on the latter track,
hi Strifen lake (sceter quarters). A road and
path also lead (W.) to the Tunhifvd fjord
(7 hrs.)]
Keeping along the rt. bank of the
river, and passing a saw-mill at a pic-
turesque spot, a bridge (about 9 kil.)
is crossed, and the 1. bank gained.
The vc^ey begins to open out, and
soon the river will be seen to take an
abrupt bend to the W. A short dis-
tance in that direction is Eolfshtts (a
favourite stopping - place), where a
Landhandler (store-keeper) provides
excellent quarters, good trout-flshmgt
and the means of making excursions
in pursuit of pretty views. Close is
Viko (Gol) stat. (20 kil.), prettily
situated. Good trout-fishing , both in
the river and in the Tisleifjord^ a
large mtn.-lake, about 15 kil. N.
[A mtn.-path connects the stat. with tht
Yalders route, which can be joined hence in
12 to 16 hrs., passing the Tisleifjord (13 kiL
long), which is crossed in a boat. About
half-way (in time) a bridge spans the Strandt-
fjord^ on which is Iflnaes ch.^ whence FoshHtn
and Fagerlund (on Rte. 8) are severally 7 and
8 kU. distant.
At Viko, a road (64 kil.) branches off to
Torpe (well-preserved <too ch.\ Aal^ and Eol,
and terminates at Oudbrandsgaard. Mtn.-
paths thence to the N. end of the Hardanger
(to Ose)^ and to the southernmost arm of the
Sogne (AurUmd). Grand mtn. scenery.]
The road soon leaves the Halling-
dal river and ascends the Hemaedal,
or valley of the Hemsilt which, at the
point where it is crossed, forms a
waterfall, and joins the main river.
A steep ascent is made up the long
zigzags cut out of the Oolsbakke
(which a pedestrian can avoid by tak-
ing the old road). The site of the old
Ool stav ch.y now near Ghristiania,
and replaced locally by a new one,
will be seen half-way up. On the 1.
rises the Skogshom (5641 ft.), the
road running up a pretty pass. Pass-
ing over to the E. bank of the Hem-
sil, and driving through a somewhat
monotonous tract, the end of the stage
will be at
Klevm (in Ool) (16 kil.) Toler-
able quarters, Scenery uninteresting.
56
Boute 10. — Christiania to Bergen.
[At Ekre (4 kfl.) S mtn.-path8 will bring
the pedestrian into the Yalders roate in 12 to
Uhra]
The Veslehom rises to the L, and
from it falls the Homsfos in 4
streams, which are very pretty in the
early part of summer. Passing
Hemsedal ch,, and crossing over the
TrUmselv, the halt will be at
Fauske (Tuf) (20 kil.) Com-
fortable quarters. (Jood trout-fishmg
in the 2 rivers close to the farm, and
in a lake 6| kil. distant. Oood reindeer-
shooting m the district. Between
OrOndalen (rt.) and MGrkedalen (1.)
rises the KaHstHlherg peak in solitary
grandeur.
[Boad and mtn. paths to Ny^uen on Val-
ders route in about 16 hrs.]
Hence the road ascends steeply the
Morkedal, a desolate but grand-look-
ing valley. A Uttle beyond this stat.
the Hemsil forms to the 1., close to
the road, the pretty Bjukande (steam-
ing) /05, of no great height, and which
can be reached by a path made and
maintained by the Norwegian Tourist
Association. This fall must not be
confounded with the great and the
small Bjukan faUs in Telemarken.
In about 3 hrs. (the stage being a
long and difficult one) the traveller
reaches
Bjdberg (20 kil., pay for 30 to
Tuf). Although as yet only a solitary
hospice^ with dreary surroundings, the
accommodation is neat, clean, and
comfortable. It lies 3823 ft. above
sea-level. Gk)od centre for reindeer-
shooting and trout-fishing close by.
[The ^5bergntit (5760 ft) can be ascended
in 2 hra. Ifystum (on Yalders route) can be
reached, vid the Eldrevand^ within a day.
MarUttten (on same route) is 23 kil. distant
by a mtn. -path.]
After passing many scRters^ a
pillar will be seen (about 7 kil.)
marking the boundary between the
" Stifts " of Christiania and Bergen.
It is erected on the Eldrehaugj a
remnant of moraines of the glacial
period, and which forms the water-
shed between the Drammen and the
Sogne fjords. The road, more level,
runs along the shor^ of the ^Idre-
vand, affording a view of the Juke-
legg (6288 ft.) At about 10 kil. the
Bimunit of the road (8788 ft.), the
highest in Norway, is surmoanted.
After a rapid desoent, and orossing
Drcbugheller bridge, the traveller
alights at
Breistdlen (15 kil., pay for 22).
Comfortable mtn. quarters, witii rein-
deer-stalking facilities.
From this stat. the river is kept to
the 1. At a steep part of the desoent
(partly in zigzags) at BersWlen, the
Berstblfos (wortib seeing) is a few
minutes' walk (rt.) from the road (from
which it is not visible). Scenery on
this stage exceedingly wild and grand.
Descending at last a long hill, to
Borlo bridge, the traveller joins the
Valders route at
Httg (12 kil., pay for 15). (See
Bte. 8 for continuation of journey to
LsBrdalsdren and Bergen.)
ROUTE 10.
CHBISTIAKU TO BEBOEN, 'Old LIKS
SPIBELLEN, VALDEBS,* AND LABDALS-
OBEN.
(By rail, str., and road.)
[The map will show that, after leaving the
rly. from Ohristiania, this route lies between
the Bandsfjord and the Erbderen lakes, and
joins the main Yalders rd. at Frydenlund
stat. The road from the head of the Spiril-
len (or SperiUen) is not, however, so good as
that from the 2 other parallel lakes. It
will be taken chiefly by those who are already
acquainted with the other routes. If the
water be not low in the Spirillen (respecting
which inquire at Ohristiania), the journey
can be accomplished in about the same time
as in Rtes. 8 and 9, in the following seotionB :
' III differently writtoi* VaJdret ojr Vafden,
Route 10. — SpiriUm j Ncbs j Sorum.
67
Gliristiania to Heen, by
rail (on line to Bands-
fjord) . . . .131
Heen to Sbrum by
str. . . , .66
SQram to Frydenlund,
byroad ... 51
Frydenlund to Leerdals-
bren, by road . . 162 *
Laerdalsdren to Bergen,
by str, . . . . 230
Total .
Dist. Time Cost
kil. about kr.
4ihrs. )
{-9.80
S^hrs. )
2-3 dys. 42.
20hr8. 12.40
. 630 4-5 dys. 64.20
The posting-rates are the same as in the 2
preceding Routes, but the number of horses
(between the Spirillen and Frydenlund) is
more limited.]
(For journey to Heen stat. see
Bte. 8.)
A s^. awaits the train on Lake
Spirillen, and gives ample time for
luncheon before embarking at the
hotel, Co and from which passiengers
are rowed in boats ; and there is also
a good Eestawrcmt on board. In case
of detention at Heen, a trip can be
made to HGnefoa (Rte. 7) by road
(6 kil.), ot by a path along the river-
bank.
The str. ascends the Bcegna river
(locally called the Aadals-elv) between
high and wooded banks. The first
stoppage is at Skollerud, Aadakns ch.
being seen to the rt. Soon after, the
strength of the current and the wind-
ings of the channel give interest to
the voyage, which is for a few mo-
ments interrupted at Bergaund farm,
and again at Flaskerud, In 2J hrs.
from Heen, the rapid Ecmgstriym is
encountered, the str. having some
difficulty (aggravated by floating logs)
in entering
SPIEILIBH, a pretty lake, about 26
kil. in length and 13 sq. m. in area. It
lies 536 ft. above sea-level, and is con-
sidered to be more picturesque than
the Bandsf jord. The foot of the steep
Bamberg (1690 ft.) will soon be passed
(beyond Viher and £Jnger), and the
course up the lake continued towards
Treknatten fjeld (about 3900 ft.) in
Hedalen, of which a view opens out.
The Btr. next stops at
Pay for 174 l?il,
WaBB (NcBsmoen), at the head of
the lake (to which there is a
good road from Heen), and enters
the BcBgna river, N<b8 ch. being on
the rt. against a background of mtns.
Passing under a long wooden bridge,
passengers are set down at Oranum
(4Jhrs.) A good station, reached
by a good road when the str. pro-
ceeds no farther than Nass at low
water.
[An interesting £icct<r*<o« (11 kiL) can be
made hence (or from Sifrum, see below) to
the E^ialen stav eh., about 600 yrs. old, al-
though the aisles apparently date from the
17th cent. It is connected with a tradition
(current elsewhere in Scandinavia) relating
to the Plague of 1349-60, when the entire
valley is asserted to have been depopulated.
A considerable time later, some hunters came
across the ch., and found under its altar a
bear, which they shot, and the skin of which
18 shown hanging on a walL Its authen-
wcity IS, however, more than doubtful.
There is some fine carving in the porch.
The Treknat (see above) can be easily
ascended from this stat.]
Depth of water permitting, the str.
proceeds through a tortuous channel
marked out by poles. On the rt. will
be passed the pretty Fagemes farm-
house, and on the 1. rises majestic-
ally the Valdsrahom, Stemming
next the Valderssirdm, the str., under
favourable circumstances, reaches its
destination at
Sdrain. Good quarters. The ex-
cursion to Hedalen ch, may be made
hence in about 7 hrs. Fine views
on road. Here (if not commenced
earlier) the posting begins.
[Bennett's carriages and carrioles (but few
horses) available, even for the entire journey
to Laerdalsdren, <fec.]
On the first part of the stage, up
the BflBgna valley, N. Hedalen Ch.
will be passed, a road running off (1.)
to the old ch. (21 kil.) above de-
scribed. Beyond, the Muggeddla river
is crossed, the stupendous Morkollen
cliff being left behind. The road then
runs across broad heaths, and, after
becoming slightly undulated, brings
the traveller to
Oa/rthus (18 kil.) Thence it runs
past the old Storsvem hotel (6 kil.),
and, after surmounting a small hill,
58
Route 11.— The Jotunh&im.
crossea the Hiilera river, which falls
here into the BsBgnaas a fos. The
valley contracts between steep rooks,
and the road leaves the rt. side of the
BsBgna over a bridge, beneath which
is the pretty Storebrufos^ close to
Fjeldheim stat. (17 kil.) Oood
quarters.
[Close to Bang Gh.t a little beyond the stat.,
on the 1. bank of the rlrer, is the Krcemmer-
moen Petuion (worked in connection with
that of Breidahlik, Ete. 8). Near is a huge
atone (Kongsten) in which inscriptions and
eflagies hare been cut relating to various
Norwegian kings, and to the artist himself
(Ole Dbnhaug, who died 1880). On the rt.
side of the river, on an eminence (4 kil.
from the stat), is the curious old ch., newly
restored, of Renli, attributed to the middle
of the 13th cent. Its ground-plan differs en-
tirely from that of other stav cA*.,and its open
roof has been, fortunately, preserved.
There is a good jwsting-road from Fjeld-
heim to Jonsaasen Sanatorium (9 ML), and
to Sveen stat. (see Bte. 8).]
The splendid new road runs along
the BflBgna, and from its highest point
a view is obtained of the broad Val-
ders valley. The summits of „ the
Jotunheim mtns. enclose the Ostre
SUdre valley. A gentle descent is
then made down the TonscMSy and
the views become more and more
beautiful until the great Yalders main
road is reached at
FSTDENLUND (16 kil.) (For
continuation of journey, see Rte. 8.)
ROUTE 11.
THE JOTUNHEIM.
This remarkable region was un-
known to the outside world until
1820, but has lately become a
favourite tourist-ground. (For a
general geographical description, see
IntroducHon : " Geography," Ac.)
[The British tourist will more easily under-
stand its limits by drawing a line from the
head of the Lyster fjord branch of the Sogne
fjord (Skjolden) S.S.B. to the N. end of
the Aardalsvand, thence £. following the
river, connecting this line with the Tyin
lake; thence along the banks of this lake
N.B. to Bygdin lake ; thenoe follow Bygdin
lake B. to its end, and turn N. to the B.
extremity of the Gjende (or Gjendin) lake
and follow the river Sjoa Nj!T."Vr. nearly
to BjJflstad ; then turn W. to the Tesse vand
and follow the Smaadal, which runs nearly
parallel to the Vaage vand, but turns up
N.W. towards Lom ; then cross the water-
shed into theBbverdal above Rbiseim; follow
that valley and continue S.W. by the For-
tunsdal to the starting-place at the head of
the Lyster fjord. This will include an area
of nearly 1500 sq. m. This space is oc-
cupied by an irregularly distributed group of
mtns., with highland vallqrs between them
that radiate and zigzag in every conceivable
direction. It is not a chain of mtns. nor the
spur-lines of any chain, but a medley of mtns.,
valleys, tarns, torrents, and glaciers, includ-
ing the highest peaks of the Scandinavian
penin. The mtns. are designated, accord-
ing to their shapes, as **Tind" or **Pig*'
(peak), " Nceb " (beak), « Eom " (horn), "iW"
(high plateau), «iVb«" (nose). The inter-
mediate tarns, or lakes, are, as in other parts
of Norway, indifferently indicated by the
terminal of " Vand " or « <^'ff," the glaciers as
" Bros " (pi. Brceer\ and small aocumulationB
of permanent snow or ice as **£tul" (pL
ffutler).
The whole region is uninhabited excepting
during the summer months, when certain
oases of pasturage are denuded of their usual
snow-oovering, and the cattle are driven
there, and cheese-making is conducted in the
ppgter-lmts. These and tlje FJeldloeger and
Route ll.^Approaehes to the Jotwnheim.
59
" Tourist hoder ** (wooden bouses erected by
the Tourist Association) are the only quarters
obtainable. The "Tourist boder" hare been
greatly improved, and serezal of them afford
good quarters.
The whole region is considerably elevated,
is snowed up till about the end of June, and
snow renuuns in all the shady hollows
throughout the year. The vallcrys descend
(but exceptionally) lower than 8000 ft. above
the sea, and their upper gorges or connecting
passes iBand)y rising to 5000 ft. and more,
are for the most part filled with perpetual
snow.
There are, however, many true glaciers in
the " Jotunheim" — i.e, valleys filled with blue
orevassed down-flowing ice, the overflow of
greater accumulations above. But these
glaciers are generally inferior to those of the
Jostedal and Folgefonn.
*' Jotunheim,'* or home of the Jotum
(giants), is properly used as the name of this
region or district, and " Jotunfjelde " for the
mtns. of Jotunheim, Jotunfjeld being the
singular. They include about 120 mtns.,
having an elevation of between 6000 and 8000
ft. ; three-fourths of these are between 6000
and 7000, and the other fourth above 7000 ft.
high. The highest is the Galdhbpig, 8397 ft.,
and the Olitretind is but 17 ft. lower, viz.
8380 ft. The heights of other mtns. will be
given bdow. Some are snow-topped, but the
majority culminate in dark rocky pyramids
projecting above the surrounding snow.
All the valleys are paths of brawling
torrents, or rivers of considerable width ; the
water of which, coming from the melting ice
and snow, is always thick and muddy in the
summer. These have to be crossed by wading
or by stepping from boulder to boulder, or by
the help of trunks of trees thrown across,
excepting in the places where the Tourist
Association has constructed bridges for the
benefit of tourista It is in the Jotunheim
that the value of this exceUent institution is
best displayed.
Food should be carried. In the huts
erected by the Association will be found
cooking utensils and fuel ; milk, cheese, and
fladbrOd in most of the saeters.
Only a few years ago carrioles or any other
wheeled vehicles could not be used in the
Jotunheim. Some highways have now been
constructed between the great lakes and in
connection with the main posting-routes.
But in general the i)edestrian is paramount
here. As Norwegian ponies are wondrous
climbers, most of the following routes from
place to place, and even some of the mtn.
ascents, may be done on horseback, with
occasional descent from the saddle at the
steeper portions of a track.
None but experienced mouutalneezB should
attempt any of the routes through this region
without a guide. A compass is indispens-
able.
The usual fee for a guide Is about 4 kr. per
day. British and American travellers must
remember that Norwegian eludes are com-
monly landed proprietors, and not mere
luggage-porters. They will carry a knapsack
of moderate weight (up to about 20 lbs.), and
exert themselves wulingly to diminish th9
tourist's fatigue, but will not be imposed
upon. If 8 tourists engage 1 guide, he will
not carry the 2 knapsacks.
All the routes have been treated below, as
th^ may be done by average pedestrians. A
horse will in most oases tntverse the ground
a little quicker, but of course at a foot's
pace.]
Appboachbb to the Jotunheim.
The irregular grouping of the mtns.
and of the contingent network of the
courses of rivers and valleys is so
complete that it is not easy, or,
indeed, possible, to divide this district
into symmetrical main or branch
routes, or to carry out any consistent
principle in the arrangement of ex-
cursions. The following include the
chief approaches to the wild snow-
dad peaks and valleys in this gener-
ally described route :
A. From the Gm>BBAin>Bi>Aii, by 3
different ways (Bte. 12).
B. From the Soonefjobd (Bte. 26).
G. From the Bomsdal (Bte. 12).
D. From SfiNDMOBs (Btes. 12 and
81).
£!. From Yaldbbs, by 2 different
ways (Btes. 8 and 10).
A. From the GUOBAAVDfiDAL.
(a) Vi& GausdailjEspeddleny Sikils-
dalm to Qjefide. — The route branches
off 6 kil. from Lillehammerj and
turns to the 1., crossing the Laagen
river, and through the Oausdal valley,
where clean accommodation will be
found at the following stats. :
Disemd (12 kil.)
Yeiflten (15 kil.)
Xoen (11 kil.)
Kvisberg (17 kil.) Hence a very
bad road up steep lulls to
Dalbakken (2 hrs.) Interesting
Cauldrons at Hehedeskjedelen. At
Dalbakken boats are iJways available
for crossing over the Espedalsvand
(1.60 kr. for 1 person or 1 kr. for
each). In less than 4 hrs. the old
Nickel-works will be reached. Thence
another boat over BredsjUen lake, to
Veltvolden (1^ hr.), where a boat
must be ordered for crossing the
next lake. Beyond, J hr. walk, and
then across Olstappm lake to the
60
Route 11. — The Joininheiint
small bat good inn at Heuigaatkfn
(5^ hrs. from Dalbakken). Thence
it is a walk of 30 min. to the Slcmgen
lake (quarters). The 2 lakes of Sknigen
and Krokloen axe erossed in ^ an hr.
The tourist then walks to Rindgleli
saBter, and, crossing the Hmbgle river
to the FlyacBter, thence through the
beautiful Sikilsdal valley to the
SikildalsscBter (good quarters), in
5-6 hrs. from Haagaaoen. (Horse to
Gjendesheim, 6 kr.)
There is a track along the 2 small
Sikilsdalen lakes (which can be
traversed by boat), at the end of
which a path leads up to a pass in the
hills and down again. Snehattaiaaeen
to the rt. Thence down and across
the Sjoa river (new bridge, 1892), to
Qjendesheim, ^ 5 hrs. from Sikils-
dals sffiter.
Another path leads from the pass
down to the Store Sjodalsvandt
which may be crossed by boat to
Bessheim.
(b) ViA Vaage and Ea/ndsvark, —
From Bte. 12, 3 easy carriole-routes
branch off W., converging at S^irem
(good quarters) :
1. From Storklevstad, through the
Eedal (crossing the Laagen river at
Kolo Bro), up to the excellent stat.
Bjdlstad (29 kil.), with interesting
wooden houses from the 17th and
18th cent. Thence a hilly road to
Snerle (17 kil., pay for 18 in the
opposite direction).
Sorem (7 kil.) Near Vaage ch.
and the Vaagevcmd. Near Sorem is
the ancient estate of Sandbu, the
seat of one of the chief families of
the characteristic peasant-nobility of
the Gudbrandsdal ; now cut up into
farms. Haakenstad^ another estate
in the neighbourhood of , Sorem, is
the seat of a peasant family of
which the pedigree dates from the
15th cent.
2. From Bredevahgen (or Moen)
a good road runs to
Aasoren (11 kil.)
Snerle (16 kil.)
Sorem (7 kil.)
3. From Lanrgaard there is a hilly
roftd oyer Vaagerusten pass to
SSrem (21 kil.)
From Sorem the road crosses the
river OUa and then turns W. To
the 1. is KlungncBS farm. On the S.
bank of the Vaagevand lies
Valle Odegaard (10 kil.) No stat. ;
horses always provided from Sorem
for the whole road to Besstrand
seter. Here the road to Gjendesheim
branches off S. to the Storvik smter
(18 kil. from Sdrem),a halting-place.
Thence to the Randevcerk saaters (11
kil.) (rest again). The road theA runs
over into the broad valley of the Sjoa
(Sjodal) to Hindsceter (quarters), 18
kil. from Bandsvasrk. In 1 hr. thence
Bus8lien asster is reached, and in 1^
hr. the Besstrandsceter, where the
road ends. From this point the Store
Sjodalsvand is crossed by boat (1^^
hr.), or by walking along its bank in
the same time to
Bessheim. Good quarters; these
are found also at Bessesceter,
From Besfidieim, hilly path* in | hr.
to
Gjendesheim', splendidly situated
at the E. end of the famous Gjende
(Gjendin).
(c) Vi& Bbi$eim,—Bj the 3 pre-
viously mentioned carriole-routes to
Sdrem. Thence along the S. bank of
the Vaagevand to Valle Odegaard,
and on to
Garmo (20 kU.) Then a hilly road
to
Andvord (15 kil.) Curious old Stav
ch. of Lorn (see Bte. 12).
[The Lomsegg may be ascended from And-
Tord in. about 4 hrs. Splendid view of the
Galdhbpig and of the other mtna. of the
N. branches of the Jotunheim ; also of the
Bondane.
From Andvord towards the S. the road runs
up the naxrovr BSvray along the lev Bovra river.
The CkddMi the massive base of the Oaldbo-
pig, is well seen from a turn in the road.]
Sots^ixii ^ (14 kil.) The best head-
quarters for the N. part of the Jotun-
heim.
B. From the SOGITEFJOBD.
(a) Vift Lystert from Skjolden to
Fortun and TwrtegrQ (Bte. 26).
(6) Vi& Aardal. — The Aardidstan-
gen stat.^ at the head of the dardah-
BoiUe 11. — Approaches to the Jotunheim.
61
fjord, a branch of the great Sogne-
fjord, affords a good starting-point
lor excursions in the Jotunheim.
From Aardalstangen it takes 15 min.
to reach the Aardalsvandy where
boats are provided by the station-
master of Aardalstangen. FamcBS,
on that lake, where boats are always
procurable, is reached in IJ hr. A
boat leaves Famees regularly in con-
nection with the steamship routes
from Aardalstangen. The environs
of the Aardalsvand are grand.
From Fa>mces a road leads up the
valley along the Aardbla river to its
junction with the Store Utlanvetf and
farther along its N. bank. The Aar-
ddla rises in Lake Tyin, and crosses
down through a side valley, the
Moardal.
[A mtn.-path leads from Moen along the
Aardola^ with its brilliant waterfalls, to the
neighbourhood of Tyin, and then S. to Ny&-
tuen on the Fillefjeld, in 10-12 hrs. (Bte. 8).]
The river is crossed in 1 hr. at
XJtla bridge, near Moen farm, and
then the other bank is followed. At
HjelleihQ river is crossed again twice.
The S. bank is then kept. Here is
the celebrated Vettisgjel pass or
oleft, through which only a path
leads up along the river. The scenery
is grand and wild. In the river the
Hbljafoss will he admired. Beyond is
an ascent to Vetti farm, which is
reached in 3 hrs. from FarnsBS (night
quarters). This is a good staxting-
point for the tracks to Tym, Bygdm,
and SkogadalsWen.
C. From the SOXSDAL (Bte. 12).
The Jotunheim may be reached
from Hoset or Mdhnefij by crossing
the Lordal (valley of the Lora) to
Aanstad, and then proceeding over
Andvord to Boiseim. The most in-
teresting track is that from Mlilmen
(horse, 10-12 kr.) Here the Bauma
river is crossed. Then along the
OrGna river, and in 3^ hrs. to a great
plateau, with splendid mtn.-views.
Thence in 2 hrs. to the summit, and
down along the Grove elv to
NyssBter (3 tolerably good saeters),
7 hrs. from Molmen.
From NyssBter a track leads up
the mtns. on the S. side of the Lordal
and, after the plateau has been
reached, along several smaU lakes.
The descent along the Aura river is
very steep down to Bakke, the first
farm in the valley, whence a primi-
tive ro^d runs across the river OUa to
Aanstad stat. ( 14 hrs. from Mol-
men).
The track from Hoset is more easy,
since it runs up the Lordal along the
river to Nysceter (6 hrs. from Hoset).
The route from Nysseter to Aanstad
is in both cases the same.
From Aanstad E. to
Andvord (11 kil.) and
Soiseim (14 kil.)
D. From the SdNDXdB£ (Ete. 31).
From Ma/raak in the Qevtcmger, a
new road leads over the mtns. to
QrjotU (Bte. 12). From this mtn.
stat. the distances are, to
FoUfoflsen (18 kil.), a new well-re-
commended stat. in pretty environs.
LinMim (19 kil.)
Aanstad (11 kil.)
Andvord (11 kil.)
Edifleim (14 kil.)
E. From VALDEBS (Bte. 8).
(a) Yik FctgemcBSyBeitOtBygdin. —
At FagemcBS stat. a road branches
off to the rt., which afterwards leads
up the hills along the Neselv.
Beautiful views on ScehQfjorden
{Difvrefjorden) lake, where already
some peaks of the Jotunheim are
seen behind the Ostre Slid/re valley.
To the rt. is Skrauthval ch., and to
the 1. a magnificent view of the lakes
Hovefjorden and Volbufjorden, and of
the surrounding mtns. The first stat.
is
Bogne (17 kil.) Good quarters. In
the vicinity a pretty view is obtained
from (HangshiHden (horse, 1.60 kr.)
From Bogne hills are descended.
Storfossen (a fall on the 1., 6 min.
from the road) is worth seeing. Be-
yond the river Vindaaen is crossed,
where on the rt. the VindefoB is seen
through the trees. Then the road
62
Route 11. — The Jotunheim.
runs along the Heggefjord, at the
S. end of which is the Hotel Beg-
?'encBS (recommended). Ascending
ong hills, over a rough road, the
traveller reaches the curious old Ch.
ol Hegge, On the 1. are several
small laJces. The river-hank is next
followed to the stat. of
Skammestein (17 kil.) View of
Kalvaahdgda, Thence a drive along
the HedaUfjorden and Oiangen lakes
to
Beito (11 kil.), where as yet the
road terminates. (Guide from Beito
to Eaufjordheiniy 2.50 kr. ; with
horse, 5 kr. ; to Qjendesheim, 5 kr. ;
to Bessheimt 5.60 kr.) There are
only mtn.-paths beyond.
From Beito a track runs up the
hills through small birches and
across long fens to the Bitihom-
scBter (8763 ft.) The Bitihom rises
on the 1. To the rt. the track leads
to Vinstervand and Qjendesheim; to
the 1., and a little down to
Bauffordheim, where quarters are
obtainable for the night in the long,
capacious hut of a mtn.-guide : on
the E. shore of the Baufjordj an arm
or eastern extension of the great
Bygdin lake. There is a splendid
view of the Mugnafjeld and the
Torfinnstmd, Good trout in the
lake.
Charges : Boat to Eidshugaren,
8.40-12 kr. (according to the number
of passengers) ; to Nybod, 4-5 kr.
Guides to Hestvoldene^ 1.50 kr. ; to
Nybod, 2 kr. ; to Bessheim, 4.50 kr. ;
to Gjendesheimt 4 kr.
[The BitUiom (6275 ft.) may be ascended
from here or taken on the way by ascending
from the Bitihomsseter, and descended on
the N. side to BAufjordheim. To the sum-
mit and back 5 hrs. The views to the W.,
S., and E. are very fine ; but the N. pcuiis of
the Jotunheim are not well seen.]
(6) Yii Tyin, — Between the stats.
Skogstad and Nystuen a good road
(6 kil.) branches off on the rt., and
leads in long zigzags, with splendid
views of the valley, of the Suletind,
the Jukulegg, &c., up to the small
Jotunporten pass, where a view opens
of the lake Tyin. * This large and
magnificent mtn.-lake is reached in a
few minutes from the pass.
Tym lake is 3620 ft. above the sea,
and abounds in good trout
Tourists can proceed hence by
boat on the lake, or on foot or
horseback along the E. shore of lake
Tyin (a tedious journey) to
Tvindehang (14 kil. ; 3 to 3^ hrs.)
Here a tourist-hut, where beds are
obtainable, and good cooking, wine,
meat, biscuits, &o. The scenery,
which has been improving from the
S. end of the lake, is here very fine.
From the middle of the lake Gald-
hopiggen is seen for an instant.
ISkinneggen (5150 ft.))shou]d be ascended.
It can be done in 2 hrs. from Tvlndehaug,
and will well repay the climber. The crags
and glaciers of the W. Jotunf jelde, such as
BreikvamscBkerif just across the lake, the
I(felledal*tindy and Koldedalitind^ a little far-
ther to the N.W. ; the StSliitaastinder, be-
yond and a little to the 1. of the last-named ;
j^Mgettfflstinder beyond agtdn ; the Urancuu-
Hwi and the Melkedalttind^ on the rt.
of Koldedfdstind ; also the mtns. of the £.
Jotunf jelde over the Bygdin, and far beyond
the latter, as far as Nautgardstind on the
N.E. and Mugnatind E.S.E. The descent can
be made on the N. side, down to EidsbU'
garen on Bygfdin.]
From Tvindehaug travellers pro-
ceed by boat up the lake or on foot
about ^ kil. farther to its N. end,
and then by a new high-road over the
isthmus to
Eidsbugaren^ (6 kil. from Tvin-
dehaug). Gk)od head-quarters. Finely
situatea on the W. extremity of the
lake.
Bygdin (see above).
Traces in thh Jotunheim.
A. Bygdin Lake.
B. BAUFJORDHEIM, across Yaldbbbflyen
to Gjbndbsheim or Besshbdc.
C. Byqdin to G JSNDE, by the Torfinsbdal
and the Svabtdal.
D. Gjbndx Lake.
B. Ascent of Galdhopioobn.
F. Ascent of the GLrmsriND.
G. BOISEIM to GJENDB, Vid SPITEBSTnLEK.
H. BOIBBIM to GJBNDB, vid SliETHAVN.
I. Gjbndb to Bygdin, by the Aadal and
the Gronnbbebg.
K. Bkssheim to Spitbrstulbn.
L. Skogadalsbobn.
M. TVINDBHAUGBN tO SkOOADAUBOEV.
N. TVINDBHAUGBN tO VBTTO.
Route 11. — Tracks in the Joiwnkeim,
63
0. EmsBUOAREN to SkogadalsbQbw.
p. Gjendsbodbk to Skooadalsb5sn.
Q. Spiterstulen to Skogadai^bobsn.
K Slbthavn to Skooadalsboen.
S. BOVERTUN to SKOGADALSBOEN.
T. VETTI to SKOGADALSBOEN.
U. SKJOLDEN to ROISEIM.
Y. Skjoldex to Skogadaisboen.
A. Bygdin Lake.
3576 ft. above sea-level, and 25
kil. long (area 18 sq. m.), lying
nearly E. and W., with low ridges on
its S. side, and lofty mtns. on the N.
The lake is in itself a beautiful
picture in good weather as well as
in a storm. Fine views of the mtns.
are obtained from it — of iheKolde-
daUtindy Ura/ncLOstind^ and Melhe-
dalstmdj beyond its W. extremity.
The Sva/rtdalspigge and SletmarkhO
are seen through Langedal on the
N. side, and, farther still, through
Torfinnsdalj the Knutshultind. The
Torflrmsti/nd rises boldly from the
shores of the lake between these 2
valleys. Bitihom and Skaget are pro-
minent at the E. end of the lake, where
quarters are available at Baufjord-
heim (see above). There is a path
along the N. shore which is some-
what level. It runs under the steep
sides of the Oaldeherg. The river
Breilaupa is difficult to ford. Either
this track or a boat brings the tra-
veller to
Eidsbugaren (28^ kil. by water;
34 kil. by the shore). Inn very com-
fortable, situated at the W. end of
the lake. Large boats with 2 rowers
should always be engaged. From
Baufjordheim to Eidsbugaren the
time occupied is generally 7 hrs. Can
be done in 5 hrs., but bad weather
may lengthen the trip to 9-12 hrs.,
if the la£e be passable at all.
B. BauQordheim, across Valderg-
flyen to Ojendesheim or Bessheim.
In 6-7 hrs., cairns indicating wel
the path.
From Baufjordhevm a path leads
E. and joins the direct track from
Beito. Thence in 15 min. to the
bridge over the Vinstra river, called
Vinsterbroen. Immediately below
this bridge the Vinstra, flowing from
the Bygdin lake, falls out into the
great Stromvandet. The path leads N.
and leaves the lake, ascending along
the E. to BypebcBk, np to the flat
Valdersflyen plateau, where a splen-
did view of the N. mtns. opens, viz.
Synshom, Kalvaahdgda, Mugnajfjeldt
GUtretindt Besshd. Many other
peaks are seen. It then runs along
a series of cairns, erected by the
Tourist Association, winding between
the innumerable tarns (Fisketjemene)
that cover the plateau, and after-
wards down to the small pass of
Heimdalsmnnden, or mouth of the
Heimdal(3|^ hrs. from the Vinsterbro).
To the rt. is Ovre Hei/mdalsvandy a
good lake for trout. (Along this and
Nedre Heimdalsvand in 6| hrs. to
FlysceteTy see p. 60.) From Heimdals-
mnnden the track runs towards the
N., with the small heights of Brur-
skankene to the rt. Splendid mtn.-
views here. It then descends the
Vargehakke to the Leirungen tarn,
where the Leirungshcekken brook
is crossed ; then to the 1. towards
the isolated OjendehD mtn., and
later past 2 small tarns to the
rt. The banks of the Sjoa river
are reached at Gjendeoseni where it
flows out of Lake Ojende. Here a
boat must be shouted for, and the
river crossed to
Ojendesheim (p. 60), (6 hrs. from
the Vinsterbro).
If the Leirungsbsek be not crossed,
pedestrians cai; proceed until they
reach the Sjoa river, and walk down
along it to the Maurvangen plains,
where the path from the SikUsdal
to Gjendesheim is crossed. Farther
on, the river is followed to vre
Sjodalsvand, where it is necessary to
shout for a boat to Bessheim or
Bessesseter. The lake is then crossed
to
Bessheim (se^ above), (7 hrs. from
the Vinsterbro)
0. Bygdin to Gjende, by the Tor-
finngdal and the Svartdal.
[This is one of the finest routes (7 hrs.) in
the whole of the Jotunheim.]
64
Route 11. — The JoUmhemi.
A boat moat be taken from Baufjordhetm
(see p. 62), oyer the Bygdiu lake to the
mouth of the Torjinrudal (3 hrs.) Thence,
there is a short climb N.E. into the Tor-
finnsdal, taming later up the vaUey, on the
western side of the rirer. Beautiful yiewB of
Torflnnstind (1.) and Kalvaahdgda (rt.) Oroes
the river and reach the summit. Pine view
of the Knutthultind and of a gi>9at snow-
hollow, Tof:^Tuhullet, looking back. Then
2 tarns are passed on the L, and, surmount-
ing the highest point, Svartdalsbandet, the
Svartdal is entered. The view here com-
mands the Melkedalitind (6905 ft.), the Rav>-
dalstind (about 7400 ft) on the W., the Skar-
daUtind (7212 ft.) N.W., Simlehultind (7163
ft.) N.N.W., the Memuru glacier and peaks
around it N., and BetthS (7573 ft.) N J!. Olose
on the E. rise the Leirungskamp and Enutg-
hulstind, between which is the Owe Leir-
ungsdal.
[Ascending here to the rt., and crossing the
pass into this valley, of which the stream
bends northward through the Leirungsmyr,
the B. end of the Gjende may be reached.
This is a long walk.J
After passing the watershed, still keeping
northwarids through the deep and narrow
avartdcdy which is followed to its outlet in
the Cfjende^ at the foot of the Knutahultindy
cross the Svartdbla river, and then follow
the small cairns on its W. side, upwards (to
the 1.) on Gjendebrynetf not down to the rt. in
Svartdctltglupet. The track runs almost
straight down to the S. bank of the Qjende.
The Gjendebod* is opposite, and a boat to
cross may be obtained by shouting for it.
D. The Gjende Lakeif (3323 ft.)
A wild mtn.-lake, with greenish
water, 18 kil. in length. There are
now 3 tourist stats, on its shores.
Notice the old stone hnt or hos-
pice, the old Ojeindehod^^ and its
bench the ** Gjendehtmden.'* This
hospice was famous for ''Gjende-
the," an infusion of the dried leaves
of the lily of the valley.
It takes 4>6 hrs. to cross the
Gjende by boat.
From the lake several of the sur-
rounding mtns. are seen in their
entire height, but they do not look
so majestic as when viewed from the
heights. It is always best to take a
large boat with 2 rowers, in anti-
cipation of a possible sudden storm.
A walk (12-14 hrs.) along the N.
shore of the lake is very interesting.
(Guide, 4.80 kr.)
[Splendid Excursioiu may be made in the
surrounding mtns. and glaciers. The follow-
ing may be named :
1. From the Cfjendebod.
(a) The Svabtdai^ozu (about 5150 ft.)>
not the avartdalspig (7116 ft.), but a north-
ward shoulder of this mtn., may be climbed
from the Gjendebod in about 8 hrs. The
view from it has been described as one of the
finest in the Jotunheim, but this is question-
able. That from the Qjendetunge (6100 ft.) is
perhaps equal to it, and the asoent is more
easUy made from the OJend^bod. Both views
are remarkable for the grand display of the
higher masses around.
(6) The Mbmurutungb (4975 ft.), com-
manding a splendid view northward of the
glaciers of the Memurutind and its peaks
beyond; southward of Knutthvly one of the
characteristic snow-hoUows of the Jotun-
heim, and nearly the whole of this magnifl-
oent region, should be ascended if possible.
It is not difficult— easiest from the Memu-
rubod. With a guide it may be ascended
from Gjende, either up the Btiikelceger or
from the StoraadcUy and descended to Memn-
rubod, in 6 or 7 hrs. Travellers may sleep
here, or take a boat back to G-jende, or to the
E. end of the lake and back. To ensure the
latter, it is better to order the boat firom
Gjende before starting ; or by taking the
boat, and starting from the Gjendebod. This
is the easiest.
2. From the Kemurttbod.*
(a) The Mbmurutunqk (see aboveV
(6) Across the glaciers of Memuru (Afetnu-
riibrceen) and of Heilstugu {Heastvgubrceen).
In some years this is a difficult and danger-
ous passage, in others no risk is incorred. It
takes 8| hrs. to walk from the Memnrubod to
Spiterstiden.
8. From Cfjendesheim or from Beuheim.
(a) The BsssHO (7580 ft.) is ascended by
following the N. bank of the Bessa rvret to
the Beutrandfjeldy and proceeding up the long
Bestfjeld ridge, which (round the Besswmd)
leads up the summit.
(b) The Bbssboo is ascended by taking the
S. bank of the Beasix, and then keeping to the
L, following the small cairns up to the Vesle-
fjeld (6763 ft.) By following the highest
ridge of this mtn. W., the climber reaches
the steep and narrow Beuegg^ the ledge sepa-
rating the OJende from the Bessvand. This
point may be made in 7-8 hrs., up and down.
It takes i hr. to cross the ledge. Only those
not subject to giddiness should take this
highly interesting trip, which may be exten-
ded to the Hemurubod and, across the Memu-
rutunge, to the Gjendebod (14 hrs.)
The view from the summit of the ledge is
wide and brilliant, endosing the Besshb, the
Uladals and Baudalstinder, the Snehultind,
the Knutshultind — all surrounding the green-
ish lake of Gjende, which, seen lying at the
bottom of an inunense cleft, is surveyed in its
entire length.]
E. Ascent of OALDHdPIOOEK.
As this is the highest mtn. in N. Europe,
and its ascent from Bbiseim presents no
serious difficulty, most tourists who have
Route 11. — 'Tracks in the Jottmheim.
65
cotne for the purpose of climbing iti the Jo-
tunheim, will not fail to attempt it if the
weather is favourable. The climbing can be
undertaken from R&ueitn^ from SpUerstiden^
and from Slethavn.
1. As Bbiseim is 1860 ft. above the sea,
and G«ldhbpiggen 8397, the actual ascent
is but 6537 ft., for which 8 or 9 hrs. should
be allowed, or 12 to 14 for going and retm'n-
iug. As a glacier has to be crossed, a rope
should be taken, and the usual precaution of
proceeding in single file, with the rope at-
tached to the first and last, the othars holding
fast, or also attached, should be adopted. An
ice-axe and Alpine stocks should be carried.
From Boiseim follow the high-road till
near to the new Ckilde Mri«, then turn to the 1.
by a steep winding path to Rauberg seeter,
ij^ hr. Then a long walk over dibrU and
snow to a glacier, which may be either crossed
(the rope being used) or skirted by a stony
track along the E. shore. In a hollow to the
rt. is the glacier lake of GjuThroDen, a tarn
with fioes of ice floating on it. It is about
7200 ft. high, the highest lake in Norway.
The local guide Knut Vole has erected a good
hut here (OJuvvashjftten)^ with accommoda-
tion for the night, meals, &c. Enlarged 1892.
Moderate charges. The summit peak which
rises from this glacier is a dome, with dark
and nearly vertical precipices on all sides
but one, and this is a snow-slope which has
to be climbed. The axe and Alpine stock are
useful here.
The view from the summit is magnificent,
dominating all the peaJks of the Jotunf jelde,
the nearest of which is the Glitretind, only
17 ft. lower. Skagestolstinderne, the h^hest
peaks of the Horungerne, stand up steeple-
like on the W. The snow desert of the Jos-
tedal stretches out on the N.W. horizon ; the
Dovrefjeld, with Snehsetten, on the N. and
the pyramidal Bondane for in the E. Peaks
and precipices of dark rock stand up in
strong contrast from amidst the bright gla-
ciers below. On the summit is a hut for
shelter.
2. From Spiterstulen (see p. 66). Shorter,
but steeper ascent. First cross the Visa
(bridge), and then up the edge of Sve^enoti
to the summit.
3. From Slethavn (see p. 67). Still shorter,
but steeper.
From Spiterstulen, a direct path leads to
OJuwathytten; good for the combination of
the routes.
Guides from Boiseim or Spiterstulen, 5 kr.
Additional charge of 2 kr. for each member
of a pcurty.
F. Ascent of the GUT&ETIKD
(8380 ft.)
This is best made from Bbiseim, com-
mencing with a walk of 3 hrs. through the
pleasant beech-clad valley of Yisdal, tiU the
junction of the Olitra river with the main
stream is reached at an altitude of 3200 ft. The
ascent is then commenced between the Olitra
and SkaiUa rivers, the first 2000 ft. over a
steep grassy slope, then over debris on the
Glitterhb, or up a species of gully, to the 1. of
[Norwa/y—yi. 92.]
Glitterhb. The last 1600 ft. of ascent is up
the snow-cone of the summit, and free from
danger if proper precautions are taken to
avoid the precipice on one side. An ice-axe
is useful, as some parts of the cone are slip-
pery, and with its aid steep slopes may be
ascended. The upper part looks down upon
a huge semicircular cavity, 2000 ft. deep, with
2 large glaciers at the bottom. Mr. Cecil
Slingsby, who In 1876 ascended with his sister,
thus describes the view from the summit : *■
*<The principal points of interest were the
view oi Galdhb, with its little ice-covered
mtn.-tam and large snow-fields. N.N.E. was
Snehsatten, a tame-looking mass. Lodalskau-
pen far away to the W. A little N. were seen
some of the more prominent Bomsdal peaks.
From here, the sharp-peaked Homngtinder
looked thoroughly Alpine in character, al-
though a portion of the range was hidden
by intermiing peaks. The noble eocles.
mtn. Kirken showed out to perfection, its
durk form contrasting grandly with the snow
and many glaciers around. Beyond Kirken
were to be seen manv other fine mtn. masses.
Unfortunately for GUtretind, the great range
of the peaks of the Galdhb shuts out many
curious and &uitastic peaks (Smdrttabtinder),
whilst the wretched LeirhS completely con-
ceals many of the most enchanting peaks cf
the Jotunheim. The view E. is of extreme
desolation : black moorlands for miles, which,
however, form a variety from what is seen
from Galdhbtind, as the main thing that im-
presses the successful climber on the latter
is the immensity of the Norsk snowrfields, as
little else besides snow and ice is seen."
The descent may be made to Visdals seeter
in about 3 hrs., from which Bte. G. may be
taken.
G. Boiseim to Gjende, vid
Spitergtulen.
13 kil. A very interesting walk. This
route runs directly N. and S. through the
middle of the northern parts of the Jotunheim.
Several of the highest peaks are seen, and
may be ascended in very little time. Spiter-
stulen is commonly used as a stat. for the
night.
From Boiseim, in grand environs,
to the 1., along the river Fisa, whioh
is crossed by a bridge. Then up the
Visdal (valley of the Visa), whioh
rises rather precipitously ,to the bridge
over the Ookkra, where on the 1. will
be reached the
Visdala seeter (6 kil.), 2956 ft.
Here a path to the Smaadal branches off to
the 1. When turning due B., and proceeding
up the Ookkerdaly the 4 Uladaittinder (the
highest 5708 ft.) are finely seen rising from
the Visdal. Higher up the vaUey a fine view
» In the Norske Turistforenings Aarhog^
1875.
It
66
Route 11. — The Joimnheim.
is obtained of the Hettthroepiggene (7088 ft.)
and the 8 Galdhopigge Bide by side.
From the LauvM both Galdfabpiggen and
Glltretind are seen to perfection. This mtn.
stands to the N. of the valley, and is easily
ascended. It has 3 snmmita, B., W., and
central ; either may be asoended from Yisdals
ssBter with little difficulty: the W. is the
easiest. Height of E., or highest, 6716 ft. ;
of the central, 6583 ft. ; W., 5829 ft. Those
who hare climbed all 3 pronounce the
view from the W. equal to the others.
G-litretind may be asoended from here
(see F.) By starting early from Boiseim this
may be done, and the saater reached again in
time for a long night's rest.
From Qokkerdal the tourist can go on E. to
tlie top of the pass, where he will turn (rt. > to
FifuJuUten and then descend into the 8maadeU.
There is a path from Smaadal over the
Smaadaltceter and SmorcUdtoBter to Teue vand^
ami farther to Randwark^ on the road from
Yaage to Gjendesheim. Long and tedious.
Proceeding from Visdskls saBier (1.)
the path descends the hill-side to the
bottom of the dark, narrow, and Inzu-
riantly wooded valley. Bridges and
trunks of trees are thrown across the
principal tributary streams at
Smitigjela and Orjota, Beyond
this, to the rt., is the Oaujpa/rscBter
(3193 ft.) on the other side of the
Visa ; thence cross the rivers Glitra
and Skauta (3^ hrs. from Boiseim).
Here the limit of the birch is reached.
To the rt. is Styggebrceeny the glacier
from which Galdhopiggen rises.
Then over the small Spitra river to
the tourist-stat. of
Spiterstulen (l^hr.from Skauta), ^
with accommodation for the night.
[The Skauthd (6675 ft.) may be ascended
from the aaster in 3 to 4 hrs. by following the
t^kauta torrent-valley, from which are fine
views of the peaks and glaciers of the
I'me^jelde, The summit commands these, and
also the sharp peaks of Kvashd, the Veo glacier,
which is very fine, and LeirhS (7885 ft., the
seventh in rank of altitude). QUIa'etiud is not
well seen.
Oaldh5piggen may be ascended from here
without crossing the large glacier. Tip and
down in 6-7 hrs. Three successive peaks
have t(0 be climbed.
Heilstuguhb may'be ascended in 6-7 hrs.
up and down.]
Still ascending the valley, the
tourist will see the Bukkehulsldft
ravine, through which (rt.) the Tver-
aabrcB and Svelnaashm, 2 of the
Ymesfjeld glaciers, are visible, and
the 3 OaldhJGpigge above all. Look-
ing straight up the main valley is
seen the HeUstugulU) (about 7200 ft.),
and a little rt. the Uladalstvnder
(the north-westernmost of the 4
peaks, 7584 ft.) After passing the
rough bridge over the Heilstugtuia,
which flows from the Heilstugu
glacier, between Heilstuguho and
Memurutindeme, the
Uladalsmund is entered, the wide
pass which leads into the more nar-
row UladaL This valley follows the
S. course of the present route, and the
Visdal, which is now left, turns west-
ward towards the Lei/rvand and
Leirddl.
[By following the Visa (wading occasion-
ally) the foot of the Kirken peak (7068 ft.)
may be reached and ascended, or by rounding
the N. shore of the Leirvand the path is
reached that proceeds northward down the
Leirdal and southward over Hogvaglen to
Langevand, whence, following the N.E. bank
of the lake, it rejoins the present route at the
Storaadal (see below).]
The path through the Uladal —
which at last sweeps round the steep
Simletind (7480 ft.), and commands
fine views of Skardalseggen and the
Raudals peaks to the S. and W.,
and then opens the Gjendefjeldene
and their glacier — is tolerably good
up to the &st of the Uladal Ues, or
Uladalsig'&n (5145 ft.); after this,
when the highest point of the pass,
the Vladalsbandet (5703 ft.) is passed,
the descent (to the rt.) is over roagh
ground, snow and rock fragments,
passing along the Simlebrcnen glacier
and the S. Uladals lakes (5125 ft.)
On the descent, the Langevand is
seen on the rt., at the end of which
the path leads down and then con-
tinues to the tarn,
Hellerljem, where the track im-
proves, and follows the roaring waters
which tumble down in the Hellerfos
towards
Storaadal, where the troublesome
Simlead has to be crossed. The
track down this valley is better,
although some small lateral streams
have here to be crossed on the way
to
Route 11. — Traek$ in the JoUmheim.
67
Ojendeboden, at the W. extremity
of Lake Ojende (8 hrs. from Spiter-
stulen).
H. BtfiBcim to Ojende, vid Slethayn
(14 hrs., on foot).
This route is not so direct as the above,
but has the advantage of an easier beginning.
The journey ma^ be broken at Slethavn,
where there is fair accommodation.
The first 6 Ml. of the road run up the
Bbverdal, past Oalde eh. The wide wooded
valley of Ldrdal is then ascended by a path
on the E. bank of the stream to Elvesoeter
farm, where it crosses by a bridge, and follows
the W. bank as far as YtterdaU teeters (3000
ft.), where good mtn.-qoarters are avail-
able. The situation is very fine on the flanks
of the Oaldhopig, with the round snow-clad
Loftet or Vealefjeld rising farther S. from the
opposite side of the valley.
This mtn. (7318 ft.), commanding a grand
panorama, may be easily ascended from
here.
A track branches oflE W. over the Bover-
^cernhdUen to Skjolden on the Lyster fjord,
and skirting the Bovertun vand proceeds to
Fortun on the Lyster fjord (see S.)
Above the Ytterdal seeters the track leads
over a bridge on the E. side of the LeirUy
where it turns up the upper Iieirdal. On its
ascent the valley becomes treeless, and more
and more desolate, the path keeping the E.
bank of the river, between the SkarUind
(7886 ft.), one of the peaks of the Ymetfjeld
group, to which the Galdlibpig also belongs,
on the B., and Veiltfjeld and XknQSm^stabiiind
(about 7600 ft.), with its glacier, on the W.
In order to avoid the glacier-river Illaaen
(t.«. the bad river), there are 2 bridges
over the Leira, by the first of which the
W. bank is gained, and by the second the B.
side, which is kept up to the sseter,
Slethavn (6 lurs. from Boiseim), with good
and clean accommodation.* G-aldhbpig can
be ascended hence.
From Slethavn, in 1^ hr. up the valley to
the
Leirvand (4932 ft.) There is a stone hut here.
Then proceed, with the magnificent steeple-
peak of Kirken (7068 ft.) on the L, and across
the small bridge over the Leira ; thence on the
W. of the lake to the highest part of the
route (5399 ft.) at the great cairn called
Hdgvaglen, on a desolate fjeld, forming at
once the watershed of the Leirdal, the Yisdal,
the Uladal, and the Storaadal. The Honing'
tinder are finely seen from here. A toilsome
stony path passes to 2 tarns of the Hbgvagl
(the HogvagHjern) to the Langevand^ the E.
shore of which is followed for 8 kil., between
Uladdlstindy N.E. (7584 ft.), and Skardalitind,
S.W.
From the lower Hbgvagltjern along the
Langevand^ where the Ulad&la river must be
pasMd (can be troublesome), and thence to
the
Hellertjernf wheze the path from Spiter-
stulen is reached. Beyond, as described
under G., to Gjindbbodkn.
I. Ojende to Bygdin by the Aadal
and Oronneberg.
From the Ojendebodi over the
bridge across the 8toraaddla,&nd.ihen
proceed round the W. end of the lake
to Vesle Aadalf and descend the slope
to the N. bank of the river. To the
1. are the mighty glaciers of the
SUtmarkhb. Then ascend the valley
W.S.W. up to a rough bridge. Cross
the river by this, and follow the path,
which presently bends a little more
to the S., with the OrHnneherg on the
rt. The luxuriant pastures found
here justify its name. A choice of
paths is then offered. The easier is
that descending at once to the Bygdin
lake by a due S. course, crossing the
small QjeithQ height, down the valley
of the HGistakka river to its mouth
on the N. bank of the lake. Then
follow the path westward, skirting
the lake, or take a boat (which may
sometimes be had, but must not be
relied upon) to Eidsbugaren.
The finest route is followed by as-
cending the Oravafjeldj after passing
the pastures of Gronneberg. From
the summit the mtns. and glaciers
around are finely displayed — Oks-
dalshi) and Sletmarkhd on the 1. ; the
Semmeltind (7133 ft.) due N., and
beyond it the glaciers of Memuru,
flanked on the E. by the rugged
Tjukningssu (7912 ft., and fifth in
rank among the giants), and Besshb
{^bl% ft.), stretching far beyond in
the same direction. The Melkedals-
tinder, N.N.W. (7105 ft.), the
BatuLalstrnder, N. (7409 ft.), and
Skardalstinder (7212 ft.), between
and beyond the 2 last-named, are con-
spicuous objects. Other peaks are
finely displayed. By a rather pre-
cipitous descent the 1. branch of the
Gravad^/c is reached, and is followed
to the N. bank of the lake. Then
cross the Mj'dlka (the " Milky " river)
and proceed along Lake Bygdin to
Eidsbugaren (see E.)
72
68
Route 11. — The JotunheiM.
E. BeBsheim to Spiterstolen
(in 10 hrs.)
The traveller walks first along the
N. bank of the Bessa np to the
Beasirandfjeld plateau, with the Bess-
fjeld and &e Besshd to the 1. ; then
h>om its highest point (4495 ft.) down
to the Bussvand (4085 ft.), which is
reached at the end from which the
Biissa issues. A bridge over that river
(lower down) will be ready in 1892.
After crossing the Bussa, the track
runs to the 1., and (in 1 hr.) along
the lake, towards the Blaatjemaa
river, where an ascent is made to the
rt. To the 1. are the Tjuknmgssiten
and Memuru glaciers, sdso the Blaa-
^emhulbrcB. The summit becomes
flatter. The track leads to the rt.,
through a small pass, and then down
into the broad Veodalen valley, where
it turns upwards to the 1., to the
VeobrcB glacier. Just below this the
Veo river is crossed, and thence is
a steep ascent to the highest point
of the track, where it leads to the
stony plateau of Skautflyen. On the
1. is a greenish lake. Below this the
Skauta river must be forded, and its
S. bank followed to the precipices
from which it tumbles down into the
Visdal. Here the tourist descends
directly to Spiterstolen.
If the Skauta be not forded, the N.
bank is kept, and the track followed
to the precipices, where a descent is
made of the steep ridge between the
Skauta and Glitra rivers into the
Visdalf where the path from Boiseim
to Spiterstulen is reached in 1| hr.
from Spiterstulen, and 3^ hrs. from
Boiseim.
L. Skogadalgbden.
This is a centre of the W. part of
ihe Jotunheim, and the best point
for excursions in the wildest and
grandest of its mtns. It is a Hut
(good) belonging to the Norwegian
Tourist Association, and is managed
bya well-known guide. It can be
reached in 1 day from Eide in the
Lysterfjord, or from Aardalstangen.
One day's waJk also brings the tour-
ist to Tvindehaugen, Eidsbugaren,
Gjendeboden, Spiterstulen, Slethavn,
and Bovertun. In the Maradaly be-
low the Skagestolstinder, the Tour-
ist Association has erected a small
hut, as a refuge for climbers on the
peaks and glaciers. The Vcyrmeli
ssBter is also a good starting-point
for excursions in the high mtns.
Store Skagestolstind (7720 ft.) is
ascended from Vormeli ; dangerous ;
16 hrs. (up and down).
Styggedalstind is ascended in 12
hrs. (up and down) from Skogadals-
hikn.
Skogadalsnosi, with a brilliant
view, is ascended from Skogadals-
Wen ; easy work.
M. Tvindehaugen to Skogadalsboen
(in 8 hrs.)
From Tvindehaugen a boat is
taken across the N. part of Lake
Tyin (see p. 62) to the outlet of the
Valdres-Koldedala river (46 min.),
whence cairns are followed up the
valley. To the 1. will be seen a
series of snow-clad mtns. with gla-
ciers : Breikvamsceken, Koldedals-
tinderj and Hjelledalstiitder. A small
bridge over the river, now called
XJradbla^ is crossed, the name of the
valley having also been changed to
Uradalen, To the 1. is the wild
Morka-Koldedal, with the FalkeHnd,
The cairns run up the XJradal, along
the TJradalsvand, where the high
Uranostind is visible to the rt.
The cairns to the 1. indicate the
path to Vetti (see N.) The path to
Skogadalsboen leads along the lake,
and in 45 min. up to the Uradals-
bandet pass, where it descends into
another Uradal. The latter is a flat
and grassy valley. Splendid view
here of the entire group of the Hor-
ungtinder and the Store Skagestdls-
tind. The Uradbla is then crossed.
Higher up, the valley is filled up
with immense boulders, the mighty
remains of a convulsion that passed
over a high peak that must formerly
have existed to the 1. The path hero
leads upwards to the rt., to avoid
Route 11. — Tracks in the Jotwnheim.
69
the passage over and through the
boulders. At last the traveller de-
scends by some high precipices into
the Utladalf where the path from
Vetti (T.) meets. Thence the high
cairns to the rt. are followed, a bridge
over the Skogadola passed, and the
track pursued to
Skogadalsboen.
N. Tvindehangen to Vetti
(in 9^hrs.)
The roate is the same as in M. to the
Uradalsvcmdt where the cairns are
followed, slowly ascending (1.) to the
Smoget pass, that leads into a narrow
valley along the Fleskedalsvand. As
this opens on the other side, a splen-
did view suddenly presents itself of
the group of the Horungtinder. De-
scending into the Fleskedal, where
the mighty SWlsnosUnd rises on the
1. (1^ hr. from Smoget), a bridge
leads over the river, the bank of
which is kept to the Fleskedalg ssster.
Thence another bridge spans the
FUskedbla river. To the rt. a path
runs over Friken to SkogadalsWen
(T.) By following the path leading
to the 1., the Fleskedola is again
crossed, and in an hour the Vettis-
mork sater (2188 ft.) is reached. On
the whole of the way there is a bril-
liant view of the Horungtinder growp.
The Morka-Koldedbla is next crossed
just above the high Vettisfos (see
Bte. 26). The latter may be seen by
leaving the path and (only with great
circumspection) following the river
to the cliff, from which the fall
tumbles. The outer parts of the
mtn. are somewhat loose, and may
some day break off. From the bridge
over the MorkorKoldedbla it is only
a few paces to the spot where the
path leads down the Vettisgaldery
along the cliffs, to
Vettisfos (260 metres), one of the highest
falls in Norway and in Europe, but has
generally not much volume. A trip from
Vetti to the foot of the fall and back takes
lf2hrB.
0. Eidsbngaren to Skogadalsbden
(in 10 hrs.)
From Eidsbngaren the tracks M. and IS,
can be taken when passing over to the Tyin.
Thence the route is along the N. bank of that
lake to the outlet of the Koldedola. This
route takes \\ hr. more time than the one
from Tvindehangen. Considerable time will
be saved by taking the direct track from Eids-
bngaren over the Slaatafjeld to the Uradal,
The most common track is the following,
through the highly intefesting Kelkedal.
The route runs at first along the
shore of Bygdin lake to the outlet of
the Mjolka {MelkedGla}, where there
is a primitive bridge ; thence along
the E. bank of that river, up the
lower Melkedal, The river is soon
left, and an ascent made to a small
plateau with several tarns : Melke-
hulleme (the "Milk-holes"). The
track then runs 1. to the Store Melke-
dalsvandf surrounded by mighty
peaks : the Melkedalstinder^ and the
MelkedalsbrcB glacier, that comes
down to the lake. In 1 hr. the foot
of the first MelkedalsHnd is reached,
and, beyond, the track runs to the
highest point, the Melkedalshandt
where the Skogadola river flows to
the W. Thence along 3 small lakes
(Melkedalstjemene), Between the 2
first the river is crossed twice. The
broad Skogadal, as this part of the
valley is called, is then traversed in
2 hrs., with a splendid view of the
Horungtinder, to
Skogadalsbden.
P. Gjendeboden to Skogadalsboen
(m 10 hrs.)
From the Qjendebod the Storaa-
dbla is crossed, and beyond the Vesle-
aadbla is followed up to the ridge
behind the QjendeUmge, Thence the
track runs to the Snehulti/nd (6254 ft.),
where the Baudal valley opens. The
Orisletjem and Raudalsvande tarns
remain on the rt. Thence along the
river to the Ratiddlsbandet pass,
where the S. bank of the Bauddla is
kept and followed to Battdalsmunden,
Here the valley unites with the Utla-
dal. Descending into the latter,
where the path meets the track from
70
Route 11. — The Jotunheim.
Spiterstulen to Shogadalshlkn, the
traveller soon reaohes
SkQgadaltbdeii.
Q. Spiterstnlen to Skogadalsboen
(in 10 hrs.)
From Spiterstulen the same track
is followed as to Gjende (G.) up to
the Uladal, where the TJladbla river
is easily passed. The Visdal is then
followed farther up, turning to the rt.
The Visa is next crossed. Splendid
view of KirkeUj Tverhottenhomene,
and other peaks, with the VisbrcB
glacier. Skirting a small tarn, the
small river is crossed. Thence again
past 3 tarns (1.) Crossing again the
same river near its outlet in the
Leirvandt the track runs to that
small lake, where the track H. joins.
This is also crossed. The track
then passes Leira by a small bridge
and turns upwards to the rt. across a
small height, and then descends into
the Oravdalt as the upper part of the
valley of the Utla river is called.
The Gravdal is next descended. At
Sandboden a small river is crossed,
which flows from a glacier on the rt.
The track continues farther down the
valley to the junction of the Baudola
with the Store-Utla river, which is
here crossed by a bridge. In IJ hr.
more along that river the traveller
gets to
Skogadalsboen.
B. Slethavn to Skogadalsboen
(in 7i hrs.)
The track from Slethavn to the
Leirvand is as described in H. Be-
yond, the route is described in Q.
S. BoTertun to SkogadaUbSen
(in 7 hrs.)
FromBovertun the tourist takes the
track described under U. to Krosshi),
where the Vetle-Utla valley branches
off to the 1. That valley is followed,
and the Steinddla and Kongsddla
crossed down to the Store- Utla, The
latter is kept to ChuHdalsstiilenj where
there is a bridge, which is crossed to
SkogadaUboen.
T. Vetti to Skogadalabden
(in 6 hrs.)
The route from Vetti to the Fleske-
dalscBter has been described under N.
Thence the track runs to the 1. along
the cairns up to the JFViA;en (4650 ft.),
with one of the finest views in Nor-
way. The descent from this mtn.
leads to the Vradaly where, after
crossing the Vradblay the track meets
M., and then ascends the UtlediJ to
Skogadalsboen.
U. Sl^olden to SoiBoim.
(2 days ; horses and guides at
Fortun and RiHseim.)
(From Skjolden to the tourist-stats,
at Tii/rtegrd, see Bte. 26.) From Tur-
tegro a path branches off to Skoga-
dalsbikn (rt.) From Turteqrb the
track runs to the 1. up the Dolereset
to OsoarshoiLg (3723 ft.), where an
inscribed stone commemorates the
visit of King Osoar II. in 1860. There
is a brilliant mtn.-view thence to
theS.
To the rt. is the Fanaraak.
From this point the vegetation be-
comes scanty, and finally ceases as a
stony upland is reached, covered with
bare loose rock and with patches of
snow here and there. All traces of
paths are lost, and the traveller must
scramble over the huge boulders,
guided by the cairns (the piles of
stones surmounted by poles marking
the route). This tableland forms the
summit-level of the Sognefjeld, or
the Ddlefjeld, After a long, slow,
and gradual ascent along a sheep-
path, the track turns to the 1., leaving
a huge glacier on the rt. ; and crossing
over the last streatn running W., a
small hut (Herrevasboden) is reached,
about 3 hrs. from Tturtegrb, From
about this point, continuing to
the N.E., the ascent continues to
the Krossh&t where the track cul-
minates. [Branch track to Skoga-
dalsboen (S.) about 5084 ft.] From
this point the descent commences.
To the rt. is the great SmOrstabben
glacier with the Smifrstabtinder
J
Route 12. — Gkristiania to Molds.
n-
peaks (75 10 ft .) Aiter passing through
a wild cleft between the mtn.-peaks,
with rocks strewed about in chaotic
confusion, a narrow, shallow valley
commences, in which Dombrui bridge
is crossed where the Dorrnna river
flows through a subterranean chan-
nel.
After this the Ssster BSverton is
reached (sleeping accommodation).
From Bovertun the path continues
E., crossed by numberless small
streams trickling through the long
grass, until, after skirting the S. side
of a shallow tarn, the wild pass is at
length traversed and the track turns
off to the rt., and, crossing some low
peaty ground, leaves the valley of
the Biyorat and crossing to the rt.
the pass of BGvertj6mhalsen enters
the vaUey of the river Leira^ where
(to the rt.) the upper Leirdal opens.
Here is reached the track mentioned
under H., which leads down the valley
(to the 1.) The path follows the
stream and becomes less rugged, with
the magnificent Galdhopig range in
full view to the rt.
A rapid descent leads, past Elve-
scBter^ to the small white Ch, of BO-
verdalefif prettily situated close to the
stream, and from this point the road
is tolerably level and fit for a car-
riole. Less than 1 hr. beyond, or
about 5 hrs. from Bovertun, is the
pretty farm of
Bodsheim (Boiseim),1810 ft. above
the sea. Excellent accommodation
and good food. The stat.-master is
a good guide (4 kr. per day), and has
made the ascent of OaldhJbpiggen
with several British travellers.
y. 8^ olden to Skogadalsbden
(in 10 hrs.)
(From Skjolden to Turtegro, see
U.) Thence the track is through
the flat HelgedaUn to the Steinddla
(a rivulet which tumbles down from
the heights of the Fanaraak). Cross-
ing this and the next brook (Skauta)^
an ascent is made to the Keiseren
pass (about 5084 ft.) On descending.
the Store-Utla river is soon seen.
The track runs down to the bridge
across that river, and then to
BkogadalsbSen.
During the descent a splendid view
is obtained of the Qjerivashrce and
the StyggedalsUnd,
ROUTE 12.
OHBIBTIANIA TO MOLDS, Vld LAKE
MJOSEN, GUDBBANDSPAL, AND B0M8DAI<.
(By rail, str., and road.)
[This is a route much frequented by those
who elect to "carriole" either to Molde, by
the flue Gudbrands and Bomsdal valleys, or
to Trondhjem, orer the Dovrefield (Rte. 13).
It offers great attractions, as the description
of it will show. The seyeral sections to
Molde are as follows :
Dist. Time Cost
kil. about kr.
Christiania to Eidsvold,
by rail ... 68 3 hrs. 4.80*
Eidsvold to IJUeham-
mer, by str.» . . 106 7 hrs. 6.56
Lillehammer to Yeb-
lungsnaes, by road . 278 2-3 dys. 52.00
Yeblungsnffis to Molde,
by str. . . . 36 4 hrs. 2.15
Total
482 4-6 dys. 64.50
The posting-rate is 15 b. per kil. ezoluaiye
of fees to drivers. Only 7 horses are kept at
the stats., which are all fast (see Introduction)^
but more are obtainable. At an extra cost of
about lb*.y a comfortable carriole (can be ob-
tained from Mr. Bennett, who also supplies
carriagei through his agent at Lillehammer,
for the drive to Veblungsnaes, 160-200 kr.
(less for a trUle), A dU. runs several
times a week between those places, in 3 days.
Fare 40 kr. Seats should be secured before-
hand. Travellers in hired or posting con-
veyances should avoid stoppmg at the
» 1st cl.
" A rly. in construction from Hamar
up the Q-udbrands vallej^ will, within about
4 yrs., result in a curtailment and modifica-
tion of this route.
72
Route 12. — Ghriatiania to Molds.
dfl. night stats. (Bredvangen and Lesje-
vflBrk, or at Klefstad and Holaker). If
5 days be devoted to this jonmey^ the halts
at night are : LiUehammer, Listad, Dombaas,
Stueflaatcoi, and yeblnngsnae& Travellers
more liniited as to time, or wishing to go in
advance of others, are recommended to push
on to Fostegaarden instead of sleeping at Lille-
hammer.]
1. CHBI8TIANIA TO EIDSVOLD.
The line (Trunk rly.) to Eids-
vold was constructed in 1848-51 by
an English company, and bears
testimony to the engineering skill of
Sir Morton Peto and his assistants.
Its gauge is 4 ft. 7 in., subsequent
lines being only 3^ ft.
Starting from tne E. central stat.
(dst Jembane) close to the Hull and
London steamship quays, the train
traverses the Oslo suburb (see Bte. 1),
and runs through or stops at the f ol-
lowing stats. :
Bryn (4 kil.), where industrial
progress is indicated by several fac-
tories (matches, tiles, &c») The
rly. now skirts the Ryenhergenej and
presents nothing of particular in-
terest, excepting some examples of
Norwegian pme-forests on the hill-
slopes, and a somewhat fertile
country, considering the latitude.
Chromd stat. (11 kil.), along a more
level road.
Strommen stat. (18 kil.)
Lillestrom stat. (21 kil.) Buff,
Junction with line to Eongsvinger
and Stockholm (Bte. 8). A busy
settlement of saw-mills, and timber-
planing factories. Villas and cot-
tages in marked and transportable
parts supplied here. It lies on an
alluvial plain, formed by the detritus
of the Glommen river and the small
Nit-elv, which runs out of Lake
CHeren (1.)
[A str. daily on Oieren In connection with
tndn to Sedterlandet.]
The train then traverses the unin-
teresting wide plain of Bom&nkey
from which the distant mtns. of
Nordmarken (Bte. 1) are visible.
Lerflund stat. (27 kil.), crossing
(beyond) the Leiwa river.
Frosrner stat. (30 kil.) Gh. to 1.
A road and ferry (over the Glommen)
hence to Blaker^ 14 kil.
Kloften stat. (86 kil.) Mtns. seen
W.
TrogBtad stat. (45 kil.) Stat, for
Oardermoen camp. Highest stat.
(666 ft.) on this section of the rly.,
but an altitude of 15 ft. more is
reached on the way to
Dal stat. (57 HI.) Scenery en-
livened by villas.
[G-ood road to Eurdalen, and an old one to
Toten.]
Hence the line runs along the
small Ris-elOy as far as the LDken
tunnel, shortly before reaching
B<nm stat. (62 kil.), where the
bank of the And-elv, flowing from
Hurdalen, is gained. This stream is
crossed several times until it is left
at a waterfall, near its rise in the
Vormen, Bunning through another
tunnel, the rly. journey terminates,
unless travellers desire, exception-
ally, to continue it to Hamar (Bte.
13), at
EIDSYOU) Btat.« (68 kil.) Buff.
Pleasantly situated on the Vormen^ a
broad, navigable river, flowing out of
Lake MjQsen,
If staying at this place, as travel-
lers in search of health and rest
frequently do, the Femigmous baths
(see Index) can be utilised, the
Mowument to Wergeland (the poet
and the discoverer of the springs)
seen, and a visit paid to the Eidsvold
Ycerk (Works), 6 kil. from the stat.,
where the Convention was held
which drew up the Constitution of
1814 (see " Hist. Notice "). The por-
traits of those who took part in it
are hung in one of the rooms of
the unpretentious 2-storeyed wooden
house, now State property. The hall
in which the Convention met, and
the pictures, will be shown by the
custodian. A carriage will be sup-
plied at the stat.
There is grayUng-fishing (end of
Aug.) at Eidsvold. and also at Minne
(see below).
Route 12. — Hama/r; Qjovik.
78
2. EIDSYOLD TO rTT.T.VTTATifTvrn'Tt,
From a pier close to the stat. a
str. leaves daily, in oonnection with
the morning train from Ohristiania,
for Lake Mjosen. Excellent accom-
modation and food on board.
Ascending the Vormen^ and afford-
ing a view (1.) of the summit of the
Skreifjeld (2130 ft.) and of the Mis-
berg (ascended in abont 6 hrs. from
Eidsvold), the str. soon reaches
^ Hinne rly. suspension bridge (9
kil.), passing under which, against
a strong current, it enters
Lake Mjosen, 99 kil. long (141
sq. m. in area), and consequently
the largest sheet of inland water in
Norway. Its extreme breadth does
not, however, exceed 16 kil. Its sur-
face, at ordinary level, is 410 ft. above
the sea, and near its W. shore and
S. end, opposite the Skreifjeld, it is
1476 fit. deep, and therefore nearly
1066 ft. below the sea-level. Its
depth is thus greater than that of
the upper part of the Christiania
fjord. It has several branches, all on
the E. shore, the largest of them being
nearly in its centre and the widest
part, opposite the Helgd (Holy island).
The streams and torrents flowing
into it are numerous, but its princi-
pal tributary is the Laagen (pron.
Logen), which falls into it at Lille-
hammer.
The scenery towards the lower end
of the lake is more pleasing than
picturesque. The hills upon the
banks are rather low, and wanting
in fine outline : on their lower slopes
they are covered to the water's edge
with woods of alder, birch, mountain-
ash, &c., and are crested by forests
of pine and fir. The farms on both
sides are very numerous and sub-
stantial. Towards the head of the
lake the scenery becomes finer and
less tame ; the hills increase in height
and attraction.
The str. calls at a considerable
but variable number of stats.
For practical purposes it will be
sufficient to mention that in about
8 hrs, it stops at
HAlCASif (53 kil.) Pop. 4200.
[Bly. stat. on Ghristiania-Trond-
hjem line, Rte. 13.]
This town (the capital of Hedemar-
ken prefect.) is pleasantly situated in
one of the most fertile districts of
Norway, and has thriven since the
construction of the rly. It is the
residence of a bishop and of the
prefect of the Hamar " stift " (eccles.
prov.) Anciently a market place (of
an importance more legendary than
real) known as Storehammer (burned
and plundered by the Swedes in
1567), of which the site is a short
distance to the N.W.
The see of Hamar was established in
1152 by Nicholas Breakspear,the first
and only English Pope (Adrian IV.)
He founded a cath. and several other
religious establishments, which were
all destroyed at the Bef ormation.
The ruins of the Cath. (the pret-
tiest in Norway), consisting of a
wall pierced by round arches, will
be seen from the lake. Time per-
mitting, they should be visited (about
J hr. walk).
There are several Schools at Hamar,
a Deaf and Dumb Asylum, an Art
Association, Banks, and many Indus-
trial establishments, including a Con-
densed-Milk Factory, worked with
British capital.
The Mesna-fos, a very pretty water-
fall, is withm J hr. walk of the
town.
[A good road (60 kil.) runs hence
to Lillehammer. It is being replaced
by a rly. to Losna in Gudbrandsdal,
88i kil.]
Hence the str. steers W., across
the Fwmesfjord (leaving the cath.
ruins to the rt.), and, after passing
between Helgd island (1.) and Ksbb ch,^
where it stops a shoii; time, reaches
the second important landing-place
of
GjOvik^ (65 kil.), a pretty town
of 1400 inhabitants at the mouth
of the Huns-elv, The Gh, contains a
^ood i^tar-piece by Asta Norregaard^
74
Route 12. — Christiania to Molde.
There are Saw and Planing mills, a
Distillery, &o.y and the trade of the
place is not insignificant.
[There is a posting and daily
dil. service (38 kil.) to and from
OdnaeB (Rte. 8), in connection with
strs. on Lake Jkjdsen and the Barids-
fjord. Dil. fare, 4.50 kr.]
Crossing to the E. shore of the
lake, the str. touches at Heggenhaugen
and next at Bingsaker, where there is
an old Ch. with a beautiful carved and
gilt altar-piece of the 16th cent., from
Antwerp. The lake now contracts,
and, passing a small hill crowned
with the ruins of Haakon Haakonson's
Castle on the Mjosen (13th cent.), and
stopping at a couple of other stats.
(BiHy with glass-works close by, and,
90 kil., Frengstnen), the str. (in 2^
hrs. from Gjovik) ends her voyage
at
LlLLEHATffMEU» (105 kil.) (pop.
1830), prettily situated (160 ft. above
the lake) on both banks of the smaU
Mesna river, which forms in the
vicinity (N.) some picturesque Water-
falls that should be visited, especially
in early summer. There is a Bathing-
hotise at the lower fall (Helvede)j about
IJ kil. Having been incorporated
only in 1827, it has a modern ap-
pearance. Saw-mills, &c., close to it.
The walks In the neighbourhood are
beautiful. From a seat upon the
Christiania rd., a short distance S. of
the town, there is an extensive and
lovely view over the lake and sur-
rounding country. It should, if pos-
sible, be seen at sunset.
There is good trout-fishing in the
Mesna river and the lakes from which
it issues, about 11 kil. The path to
the latter runs through forest and
over swampy ground.
[For dU. to Oausdal sanatorium,
see below and Index,'\
At about I ML above the town the Laa^en
(Logen) river falls into the MjHsen. Biang
in Le^evcerk lake (Gudbrandsdal), it has a
coarse of 190 kil. and a catchment basin of
4775 sq. m., a vei^ considerable number of
email rivers contributing to its volume. It
waters the OudbrandsdcU^ which opens here,
and has a total pop. of about 50,000. The
greater part of it is narrow and winding, with
mtng. of somewhat unifonn outline on either
side, cultivated on the lower slopes, and
genersdly covered with pine-forests in the
upper parts. Here and there it widens for a
short distance, but nowhere to a greater ex-
tent than 10 or 11 ML The Gudbrandsdal
region (6370 sq. m.) consists to a great extent
of barren mtns. (some covered with perpetual
snow) and of morasses, with attractions only
for Alpine climbers and hardy sxMrtsmen.
The scenery is mostly tame and dreary com-
pared with that of the Romsdal and other
valleys, and only occasionally brightens up
into plcturesqueness. The pop. being con-
fined principally to the main valley, the faxms
are numerous, and also large and tidy-looMng.
The yeoman farmers are, relatively (for Nor-
way), well-to-do, and keep up a pride of an-
cestry and a spirit of independence which
travelers will do well to respect while posting.
The kind of Phrygian cap, of a blood-red
colour, which many of the peasants still wear,
will serve to remind the stranger of the spirit
of liberty that pervades, more especially, the
inhabitants of the Gudbrands valley.
3. ULLEHAMMEB TO VEBLUNOSNiBS.
[For posting-rates and conveyances, see
head of this Boute.]
On leaving Lillehammer (past the
new Market-place and Racecourse) ^
the excellent "Kongevei'* (King's
highway) runs N., and shortly com-
mands an extensive view over the
town, the lake, and the Otidbrandsdal
and Oatisdal valleys. A torrent from
the E. is crossed soon afterwards,
and the road issues on the 1, bank of
the Laagen. At about 10 kil. the
Jorstadmoen Camp of Exercise wiU be
seen on the opposite side of the river,
and beyond it a Monument to the
engineer who constructed the road.
A succession of rapids and cascades,
with water of a milky blue, will be
passed as the road continues to ascend
the valley.
L»rom Srunlaag (H hr. drive (N.) from
Lillehammer) a road branches off to the 1.,
crossing the Laagen and ascending the Oaus-
dal, at the head of which valley is the cele-
brated Oausdal Sanatorium, reached gene-
rally, however, by diL or other conveyance
from Lillehammer (40 ML) in about 4i hrs.
(see Index). The stats, off the " Kongevei "
are— Disemd (12 ML), Veisten (16 ML),
Moen (11 kil.), and Kvisberg (17 Ml.)
From the road running W. off the Highway
there are several smaller roads and mtn.-paths
leading S.W. and W.
Route 12. — Fossegaarden ; Holmen; Kirhestum,. 76
The Qftusdal SaoAtorium* (the oldest and
most elevated in Norway) is perched at a
height of 2880 ft. above aea-level, on a slope
of the Skeikampen (8698 ft.), from the summit
of which, as well aa from that of the Frcesf-
kampen{4090 ft. ),an extensive view is obtained
of the Jotun and Rondane mtns. A plateau
stretches hence to the Jotunheim, affording
many health-giving excursions on foot and
on horseback. The fine, pure, and dry mtn.
air has a favourable influence on derange-
ments of the nervous system, and is higMy
beneficial in cases of chronic catarrh of the
throat or mucous membrane of the air-pas-
sages, as well as in those of asthma, disorders
of the digestive organs, anaemia, chlorosis,
scrofula, hemorrhoids, hysteria, and hypo-
chondria. The incipient stage of pulmonary
consumption is often successfully treated,
but the resort is not suitable for persons in
whom the disease is fully developed.
The establishment is well and solidly built,
with large verandahs enclosed with glass,
where the sun, even on cold windy days, al-
ways affords warmth. There are many smaller
buildings in which quiet rest is available
to those who suffer from nervousness or
sleeplessness. 8eaton : from June 5 to
Sept. 6.]
Passing later the large Hove and
the Bdlberg summer Pensions, the
road runs high above the Laagen,
which receives the glacial, green
waters of the Otta before tiie first
stage is reached at
Fossegaarden^ (14 kil.) A good
and large stat., prettily situated, with
12 horses. Telephone. Below is the
Hunderfos, a faU of no great preten-
sions, and interesting chiefly on
account of the large bttll-trout (Hv/n,-
derHrret) which, coming up from the
Mjosen to spawn, are netted in large
numbers. Attempts to take them
with a fly or spinning-tackle (by ex-
ceptional permission of the stat.-
master) have not been very successful.
These fish run up to 36 lbs., and are
as fine in colour and flesh as the
trout of Lake Saima in Finland,
where, however, they have not been
taken above the weight of 24 lbs.
Above the fall, and up the entire
course of the Laagen (and in its tri-
butaries and the lakes that form
them) small trout can be caught.
An easy ascent to the cairn on the
summit of the NceverfjM (E.) can be
made hence (and back) in about
2^ hrs. Magnificent view of MjOsen
and rotn9. Horge, 4-6 kr,
[The observation under 0au8dal sanato-
rium in respect of mtn.-paths applies also to
this stat.]
On the next stage the road follows
the considerable bend made by the
Laagen, and passes through a ravine,
the sharply defined summit of the
Hohna (2407 ft.) being seen on the 1.
Many farms and the district (OieT) Ch,
and manse, as well as a mtn.-path
leading into OsterdaUn (rt.), will be
passed, with pretty views of the river
beneath and the vaUey beyond, before
arriving at
Holmen (17 kil.) Small but com-
fortable quarters. In the distance,
up the vaUey, the snow-clad peaks of
the Bondeme and SGlen come into
view, but with no great effect.
Beyond, the road runs past Forma
farm and Tretten ch., and, crossing
the Mohsa, comes up to the large
buildings that constitute Stav, the
site of the great horse-fair annually
held there in Aug. during 3 days.
Some of the finest horses in Norway
may be seen at it, many of them as
much as 16 hands high, and beau-
tifully shaped. The Gudbrandsdal
horses are in great request through-
out the S. of Norway.
Soon the road follows the shore of
Lake Losna, formed by the Laagen,
and full of trout, and reaches, through
pretty scenery,
Eirkestuen (16 kil.), a small stat.,
with Fodvang Ch» close by. After
leaving the lake the road crosses
the Tromsa river, which is about 200
ft. below. The figures on the rocks
near the stat. denote the height of a
flood in June 1860. Up the valley of
the Tromsa a horse-track turns off to
the E., across a remarkable bridge, to
the Glommen valley. The main road
soon enters a ravine'(^£(^/(;Zet;6n), and,
ascending a high hiU (^Elstad, to rt.),
it brings the traveller m sight of the
red spire of the ancient Bingebu
Stav ch., and runs along the bottom
of the valley, now flat and broad, until
it reaches
Slqeeggestad (12 kil.) Very good
and cheap stat., beautifully situated.
A charming and extensive view can
76
Route 12. — Christicwda to Molde.
be had from the oh. just mentioned.
The excursion can be made in less
thui IJ hr.
[An excursion (about 6 hre.) is also often
made from this stat. to the Klingenberg mtn.
(about 3000 ft.), from which a grand view is
obtained in clear weather. A shorter one
(about 2 hrs.), with a similar object, is to
Vaaier Bro^ about 1^ kil. from the stat.
From Elstad a road runs over the Cfjeld-
soeter (near which is the Klingenberg) to
AfudaUaeter (7 hrs.) Thence a sceter-path
leads (2 hrs.) to the Storfjeldsceter^ from which
Atna stat. (on the Trondhjem rly., Bte. 14)
can be reached by road (about 18 kiL)
There are mtn.-paths In various other direc-
tions, but as few will use them their descrip-
tion is omitted.]
There is sni^' shooting in the
marshes near the stat. and good trotU-
fishmg in the river.
The valley preserves its breadth,
but becomes marshy. From VcLole
bridge (from which runs a road up to
the long Vcenebygt valley to Atnebro,
in the Bondane mtns., and other
places) the scenery gains in grandeur.
Torrents dashing through picturesque
rooky gorges are passed about mid-
way on the stage. After crossing the
J^r^a,the Steig gaardy a farm perched
on an eminence, will be passed rt. of
the road. Lars Gram, the baillie who
led the peasants' attack on the Scot-
tish expedition in 1612 (of which more
anon), lived here. Beyond, on the 1.,
is Hundtorp, the ancient seat of Dale
G-udbrand, the heathen enemy of St.
Olaf. There are some large tumvM
near it. Soon after, the traveller will
pass the brick octagonal oh. of Sbndre
(S.) Fron, built 1787. Ludvig Hol-
berg, poet and historian, lived in his
youth (1694-98) in the adjacent
Manse, At a short distance from the
oh. is
Listad stat. (14 Ml.) (good for
dinner or night quarters), prettily
situated, with a view of the broad
valley and of the Sikilsdalshd. The
Nautga/rstind is visible on the old
road (5 min.)
On the next stage the valleyis more
cultivated, but the upper parts of the
mtns. still clothed with continuous
pine-forest. The Laagen again be-
comes ver^ rapid, and tqia^ 2 ^ne
and picturesque cataracts; also the
Ha/rpefos, which is, however, not seen
from tiie road, the point from which
it can be attained being about 2 Ml.
before reaching (beyond Sddorp ch.)
the stat. of
Moen 1 Sodorp (10 Ml.) Good
and cheap accommodation and food,
which can also be obtained (3 kil.)
at Byhre (post-offioe).
[A pretty and tolerably good road runs off
to the L a little beyond Byhre, over a long
bridge across the Laagen, to Evikne and
Bkaabu, ending at EampessBter (" Seeteren "),
where quuters are available. Distance, 63 kil.
(3 stages). Boad hence also to Oauidal (see
above). Track thence into the Jotunheim. ]
Close to Byhre a torrent is crossed,
and the road keeps close to the
Laagen, the valley narrowing and
becoming less populous, but finer and
more wild. Inrigation prevails here
extensively, and continues for several
stages — the water being led down the
mtns. In gullies and wooden troughs
to the various farms. Sigstad farm
is a telephone 'St&t, Close to Vik farm
is (to 1.) a large rough-hewn stone
slab, on the face of which is inscribed
(in Norwegian) : " Here was the leader
of the Scots, George Sinclair, buried
after he had fallen at Eringelen, on
the 26 Aug. 1612."
The story of the so-called " Sin-
clair Expedition," with which the
Gudbrands and Bomsdal valleys still
ring, wiU be told at another stat.
The stage ends at
Elefstad hi kil.) Comfortable
quarters and reasonable charges.
Situation of the stat. beautiful, on
the bank of the river, with mtns. on
either side.
[An excursion (2 hrs.) can be made hence
to the IfiUingtberfft the top of which offers a
fine panorama of the high ranges to the N.]
On leaving Elefstad, the valley
takes a westerly direction, and winds
a good deal, the stream in its precipi-
tous course forming a great number
of rapids and cataracts. After pass-
ing Kvam Ch. a small river is crossed,
and the road soon attains an altitude
of Qei^ly 1000 ft, above @ea-level
Route 12. — Bredevwnge/h, J Formohampen.
77
(dOO ft. above the river). At the
point (Koloen) where the valley again
turns almost due N., the Sjoa issues
from the Hedal valley, and joins tiie
Laagen.
[Here a road runs up the Hedal to Bjolftad
(37 kil. from Klefstad), an interesting, large
farm In rococo style, built at the latter part
of 17th or beginning of 18th cent^ and owned
by a family claiming descent from the natiye
kings of Norway, and to Snerle (17 kil.), on
the road leading W. to the Geiranger and
Nord fjords (see Section IL)]
In the vicinity of Evam ch. is a
ham close to the road (1.), in which
116 Soots were imprisoned, under cir-
cumstances related on the next page,
and either killed in it or shot against
the N. wall of the bam by the pea-
sants, after a carousing council of
war, which determined that, as it was
a long distance, at harvest-time, to
Akershus Castle (Ghristiania), and as
the King of Denmark's resources
would be sufficiently strained in feed-
ing the 18 prisoners (out of 134, in-
cluding 3 officers) whom they had
spared, the remainder should be
annihilated in the manner to which
the bullet-holes at the N. end of the
bam to this day bear testimony.
The legendary bravery of the peasants
of Qvdhrandsdal has, in the absence
of historical research, survived very
long, and it will interest travellers to
see in the testimony offered by the
bam in question the equal longevity
of timber buildings in Norway. These
observations are necessary on account
of the eager pertinacity with which
the destruction of "900 Scots" by
300 peasants is related by old and
young in the valleys which this route
traverses.
An abrupt bend to the K. from
Koelen brings the • road in view of
Formokampen (4820 ft.) and past the
District Prison and Post-office to
BredevaBgen (16 kil.), a very
good and comfortable stat., prettily
situated on the borders of the small
lake which the river here forms.
Formokampent a massive mtn.,
forms here the background of a
grand landscape*
Gk>od trout and grayling fishing
(especially around the islands in the
lake). Trout are also numerous in
the VcuUaasjO and the FwrusjQ lake,
near the Bondane mtns. (about 10
kil.) The reindeer and pta/rmigan
shooting is also very good in this
vicinity. Gillies, boats, Ac, at stat.
From the top of Staagaapiggen (2
kiL) is a fine view. There are many
pretty waterfalls in this vicinity, the
Maehlutnsfos being more particularly
worth seeing. .
From Breden, on the opposite side
of the lake, the road runs N. through
the contracted valley of the Laagen^
which is soon joined by the Otta
river, the green colour of its waters
having a remarkable effect.
At about half way to the next stat.
a small stone Obelisht "In com-
memoration of the bravery of the
peasants " (Bonder), marks the vicin-
ity of the once dangerous " defile *' of
KringeUn^ but which a climb from
the cha/ussie will show to have been
merely a foot-track or bridle-path
along the edge of what was, until the
beginning of the present cent., the
precipitous bank of the river. It is
here that the legendary massacre of
the Scots in 1612 took place.
[Historical * research within the last few
years has proved the facts of the so-called
** Sinclair Expedition " to hare been as fol-
lows :
Sweden and Denmark were at war. The
Danes had in their service about 8000 English,
French, and Grerman mercenaries; and the
Swedes, having only 1 foreign regiment^
sought reinforcements In the Netherlands,
then foU of disbanded soldiers and available
arms, A force of about 1200 men was ac-
cordingly gathered together at Amsterdam
by J. von Mbnnlchhofen, an officer of high
rank in the Swedish service, and sailed in
4 ships for the coast of Norway. They
landed near Trondhjem, and made their way
with some difficulty, not from armed oppo-
sition, but owing to the difficulty of obtaining
provisions, to the Swedish frontier, and thence
to Stockholm, then seriously threatened by
the fleet of Christian lY. of Denmark, which
^ History of the SeottUh Expedition to Nor-
way in 1613. By Thomas Michell, C.B. Lon-
don and Edinburgh : T.Nelson & Sons. Price
3». Sold (for the benefit of the Anglican Ch.,
Christiania) by booksellers in tlie principal
towns in Norway.
78
BotUe 12. — Oh/ristiama to Molde.
had complete oommand of the Kattegat and
the Belts, and prevented the Swedes from
reaching the sea.
Sir James Spens, Laird of Wormiston, had
simultaneously nndertaken to supply Ousta-
yns Adolphns with 8000 Scottish soldiers
" of prored fidelity and brarery," and he en-
trusted the levying of that contingent to Col.
Andrew Ramsay, a brother of the fayonrite
of King James. The name of the Scottish
king having been unjustifiably used in these
proceedings, his brother-in-law, the King of
Denmark, remonstrated, and obtained the
issue of a proclamation ordering the levies
already made in Scotland to be discharged
and the ships provided for them to be seized,
which was immediately done. A small con-
tingent, however, of 300 men (embarked by
force) contrived to sail, in 3 small ships,
severally from Dundee and Caithness. They
were " under the conduct of Alex. Bamsay,
Lieut.-CQl. unto Col. Bamsay, Cfl^t. Hay and
Capt. Sinclair,** under whom were 3 subordi-
nate officers (Bruce, Moneypenny, and Scott).
Failing to combine, as previously arrangeo,
with the Netherlands contingent (which was
to have supplied the Scottish force with
arms), they landed in the lisf jord (a few kil.
from the present Veblungsnaes), and with the
aid of a native guide started up the Bomsdal
and the Gndbrandsdal with the view of cross-
ing into Sweden. At Kringelen they were
opposed by about 300 peasants hastily col-
lected by the local baillie, who caused an
avalanche of logs and stones to be rolled down
on the Scots as they were marching along
the horse-track to which attention has been
drawn above. This device cemnot, however,
.account for the destruction of any large
number of men marching in single file ; and
a recent military survey of the path proves
that, even if the men had marched 2 abreast,
only 26 or 30 of them could possibly have
been killed or injured in that manner.
That firearms were used on both sides is
evident from the few remains of mu^ets,
swords, &c., that have been preserved as
trophies. In the mtUe Capt. George Sinclair
and Capt. Hay were killed, and the other
officers, having escaped unhurt, were taken
prisoners. It may be assumed that, in order
to save their real commander (Ramsay), they
pointed to the body of Sinclair as that of their
chief, and hence the event has ever since been
known in Norwegian legends as the " Sinclair
Expedition," in which "900 Scots" were
" crushed like earthen pots." To this day,
almost the first bit of poetry taught to Nor-
wegian children is a poem by E. Storm, ex-
tolling the bravery of the peasantry and
execrating the invaders for their acts of mur-
der, piUage, and incendiarism. Danish official
documents have now, however, revealed the
fact that the Scots "absolutely neither burned,
murdered, nor destroyed anything on their
march through the country." Presumably
they were for the greater part unarmed, and
were being driven along as captives by the
Scottish officers who had forcibly sdzed them.
The attack by the peasants must in these cir-
cumstances have been hailed by the great
bulk of the men as a deliverance ; but un-
fortunately, as stated under " Klefstad " (see
above), the victors, after a carouse, put to
death, one by one, 116 of the prisoners they
had shut up in a bam. The atrocities con-
nected with the expedition, common as they
may have been in that age, even in Sootland,
were therefore, on this occasion, not on the
side of the Scots. A balance of about 166
men remains unaccounted for : many must
have been thrown into the river or otnerwise
despatched during the struggle at Kringelen,
but some few are known to have escaped and
settled in the country, under the protection
of kind-hearted peasants. The dexwsitions of
the 3 officers who were spared at the massa-
cre were taken later at Copenhagen, and are
now on record to refute the legendary account
of the expedition which has hitherto appeared
in almost every book on travel in Norway.]
[boad fbom bbedevanoen to the
geiranoeb fjobd.
A good road (one of the grandest mtn.
rout^ in Norway) runs, since 1888, from
Breden (see above) to Maniak ( Merok) at the
head of the Oeiranger fjord (Section II.),
with a branch to BViseim in Biiverdaien (the
easiest approach to the Jotunheim mtru.)^ and
another to Hjelle on Strynsvand lake^ from
which the upper part of the Nordfjord (Sec-
tion II.) is reached. The main road will be
bri^y described here as far as Grjotli, wlience
the branch to the Nordfjord runs off. (For the
roads leading to that junction, see Section II.)
As the great majority of travellers pene-
trate into Norway from its western seaboard
and fjords, it has appeared advisable to
supply them with direct routes to the points
to which their joumeyings are generally di-
rected.
The posting-rate is 15 "d. per kil.]
Turning to the 1. from Kringelen,
and after crossing the Laagen, the
narrow road in question runs up the
valley of the Otta, and the first
stat. is
Aasoren (11 kil.) From Lalum
bridge the river, hitherto falling in
rapids and cascades, begins to flow
gently and smoothly. The stage
ends at
Snerle (16 kil.) Near this stage
a road branches off N.E. to Klefstad
(see above). Beyond, the view is
closed in by the Lomsegg (6760 ft.)
A halt is then made at
Sorem (7 kil.) Qood quarters.
In a Ch.j 1^ kil. distant, are curious
carvings of the 17th cent. Several
mtn.-paths hence, one partly car-
riageable to Ojende lake. The
Tesse river, passed on the next stage,
issues from the lake of the same
ttoute H.^tiarmo ; Mom.
79
name, in which troiU abonnd, and
which, amongst other pretty falls,
forms the fine Oksefos, The road
follows the bank of the Tesse for
some distance.
Garmo (20 kil.) A small hamlet,
w^ith several large farms, and a Ch,
are beyond it. The Ottavand will be
skirted, and the B'&ora river, which
forms a waterfall in discharging it-
self into that lake, will be passed
before reaching the Ch» and Mcmse
of Lom. This is also a remarkable
Stav ch. (like those of Hitterdal,
Borgund, &c.), and is approxi-
mately of the same antiquity. The
ancient open roof was, unfortunately,
in the 17th cent, concealed by the
present ceiling. Here also the system
of artificial irrigation is of interest.
Turning up a hill, to the 1. of the
high road, the traveller alights at
Andvord stat. , (15 kil.), from
which the Jotwn mtns, are most
easily approached by a branch road
to Boiseim (14 kil.) Splendid views
of the Ouldhom and OjwvbrcR^ the
Glaama river being on the 1. before
crossing the Stda,
[The ascent of the Lomspgg begins at the
Ch. With a guide, the lowest peak (beyond
wliich few venture) can be reached in 4 hrs.
The giant Galdhopigg (8397 ft.) and otlier
peaks of the Jotunheim are very impressive, as
is also the rising of the sun, to see which
involves a start before midnight.]
Hence the road continues up the
valley, which halfway to the next
stage is flat and well cultivated.
Grossing the Otta^ the traveller
reaches
Aanstad (11 kil.) Tolerably good
accommodation. Shiaher Ch, close
by, and the windings of the Aura
on the rt. Keeping along the
bank of the Otta^ after crossing it
twice, Nordberget Ch, comes in view,
and immediately after
Linseim (11 kil.) Good quarters.
[A country roail runs hence to the 5raa/«-
dal^ and mtn.-paths to Joitedalen (Faabergp
16 hrs. distant) and to Opstryn, in Sundalen.^
On the next stage the road con-
tinues partly along the OUa, but
soon becomes very narrow, and passes
next through woods before reaching
the Heggerbotvand (the mtns. seen
to the 1. being 3020 ft. high), and
Heggerbotten stat. (11 kil., pay
for 14). Lakes and rivers are next
skirted or passed to
Follfossen (19 kil.) Pretty good
quarters.
[Pedestrians can cross the mtns. in about
6 hrs. to KyssBter, on the way to Lesja, Gud-
brandsdal.]
Here the road rises steeply, the
Synstaalkirke dominating it at a
height of 4365 ft. After the BUUng-
dal is entered the Tora river is
crossed, the spray of its huge water-
fall being seen on the heights to the
rt. A halt will then be made at
BilUngea {tk scBter), (24 kil. from
Linieixn, pay for 29).
Again several ascents before reach-
ing the flat shore of the Vtdiinxind
(about 6 kil. long), the Vulu river
being crossed after passing NyscBter
(in about 1 hr.) Twisting round hills,
and then running along a lake, the
road offers views of considerable
grandeur, especially of the Skridu-
laupe. After crossing the S» Grjotaa
the stage ends at
GijotU (18 kil., pay for 23). A
Government Hospice (2843 ft.), well
recommended. The SkridiUaupe can
be ascended hence in about 8 hrs.
Continuation of Main Boutb to
MoiiDE.
From Bredevangen the road fol-
lows the LaageUj and from the foot
of Kringelen a highly picturesque
view opens out, both of the valley
and the river. The JJla is crossed
at its confluence with the Laagen at
Moan (i SeT) (8 kil.) Fairly good
quarters for a halt. In Sel Ch,,
close by (built 1742), are 2 curious
altar-pieces, one being of 1681. The
other (the Lord's Supper in relief)
is dated 1783. A short walk up
the valley of the Ula affords an
80
Route 12. — ChrisUania to Motde*
opportunity of viewing the pretty
cascades and rapids which that river
forms, as well as the engineering
contrivances by which its power for
inflicting damage is controlled or
arrested. The trout-flsh/i/ng is very
good in the Bondevand and the
Ildmand lakes. They are reached
by a road np the Uladal to My-
Busaster (11 kil.), and thence by
a bridle-path. The owner of the
lakes (who also provides excellent
reindeer and ptarmigan shooting)
lives at the Bjbmelien saster, 11
kil. S.E. of the Bondevcmd*
[Tracks for pedestrians to the W. fjords.]
After leaving Moen the road rises
gradually through scenery growing
wild and dreary from the absence
of houses and cultivation and . the
stunted appearance of the trees, and
before arriving at the next stat.
the stream is crossed by a bridge to
the rt. bank, after which a steep bit
of road leads to
laargaard (10 kil.) Excellent stat.
Near the stat. is Bomundgaard,
one of the rooms in which will be
shown as that occupied by "Sin-
clair " the night before he fell at
Kringelen, while the large barn to
the rt. is (no doubt truly) stated to
have accommodated a considerable
number of the Scots. The size of
the timbers attests the antiquity of
the buildings. Wild^tcck shooting
is good in the marsh between this
and Moen.
[One of the most beautiftd Excursion* in
Norway can be made (in 7 hrs.) from this
pl£U}e by driving to the Riuten ravine (N.)
and riding thence to H5vringen sseter (11
kil.) The Formokamp (see mention above)
can be ascended thence on horseback, and a
beautiful view obtained.
A small road branches off also (1.) to
Sorem (21 kil.) on the high road, already
described, to the Nordfjord^ <fec. (see
Rte. 11).]
The high bridge at Laargaard
must be recrossed in order to con-
tinue the road northward. The high-
est point passed on the next stage is
about 1860 ft. above sea-level, after
which it descends considerably.
The road is very hilly, and traverses
the finest bit on the whole route (the
Busten ravine), the mtns. drawing
together, and the river forcing its
way between precipices of gneiss.
The scenery is grand and wild,
especially at the bridge crossed in
less than 1 hr. from Laargaard.
Here diverges the road recommended
above for an excursion. Beyond the
bridge the road ascends steeply on
the rt. bank of the river, and after
surmounting the crest the valley
opens again, and the journey is con-
tinued along an old, undulating part
of the road to
BrsBndliaagen (Dovre parish) (12
kil.) Very good stat. The Jetta
field (6646 ft.), with a splendid view
of the Dovrefjeld^ the Bondane, and
the JotwnSi can be ascended hence,
and there is a saBter-path to Hov-
ringen (see above). There is a strong
Ferrugimous spring in the vicinity of
the stat.
The road crosses to the 1. bank of
the river, and continues close to it all
the rest of the next stage. Numbers
of small farms up the E. sides of the
mtns. The soil is light, and the vast
forests are of pine. The hamlet of
Dovre is passed through, and its
pretty ch. is seen on the rt. close to
the road, shortly before reaching the
next stat. The Gudbrandsdal is con-
sidered as ending here, and the f jeld
begins in reality at
Toftemoen (12 kil.) Very good
stat. for night quarters. It is kept
by Tofte, who claims descent from
Harald Haarfager.
[His large gaard is on the hill opposite
the stat., and is worth visiting if only to see
a panel above the door of one of the rooms,
representing the local idea of the march of
the Scottish expedition. A woodcut of it is
given in the History already referred to. Some
few pieces of antique furniture, costumes,
and uniforms (of a date almost modern) are
exhibited at the stat. Tofte is the hero of
the story in which the late King of Norway
and Sweden was obliged to admit Tofte
to the royal table when His Majesty stopped
at the stat. on a journey. On that occasion,
also, Tofte objected to any royal plate being
Route 13. — Ohristiama to Trondhjem.
81
used, his own plate-ohest being sufficiently
well stocked — presumably with spoons, for
forks and knives, except the ^o/^ifcnto (sheath-
knife), are to this day but little used in the
Norwegian valleys.]
The road runs through the mea-
dows bordermg the Laagen, and
gradually ascends. The vaJley con-
tracts, and the soil becomes more
sandy.
An intricate system of irrigation-
pipes, made of hollowed pines, will
be noticed at various points.
The trees gradually get more
stunted as the road ascends until it
reaches the bare upland, 2158 ft.
above the sea-level, at
DOKBAAS (pron. Ikymbds) (11
kil.) Excellent quarters. Telegraph
and post offices. Various skins and
reindeers' antlers for sale. At such
an altitude the air is, of course,
exhilarating, but the scenery is wild,
and in order to obtain a view of the
neighbouring mtns. it is necessary to
make excursions. One of about 5 hrs.,
to the Haregg sseter, is recommended
with that object.
The Snehcetta can be ascended
hence, vid Rolaker^ and the descent
made to Fohsttien or HJerhin, and
vice versd (see next Boute).
At Dombaas the main road to
Trondhjem leaves the valley of the
Laagen and runs N.E. over the Dovre-
fjeld.
The remaining section of the road
to Molde will be described in Section
II. in the reverse direction, because a
greater number of tourists ascend
than descend the Bomsdal valley, and
the long carriole or carriage drives
to Molde and Trondhjem (and vice
versd) are not so frequently under-
taken as relatively short excursions
along sections of the roads in Btes.
12 and IB.
For the assistance, however, of tra-
vellers who would have to read back-
wards the description of the road
from Veblungsnees to Dombaas, the
stats, on the road are here given in
their order westward :
[Norway — vi. 92..]
Holager .
Holset
Lesjevasrk .
Mblmen .
Stueflaaten
Ormeim
Flatmark .
Horgjem .
Yeblungsns^
Total
. 12
kil.
. 16
»»
. 10
1,
. 12
),
. 13
„
. 10
»
. 11
n
. 12
»»
15
M
. 110
kU.
(For distance, Ac, between Vae-
blungsnsBS and Molde, see the head
of this Boute.)
ROUTE 13.
OHBISTIANU TO TBONDHJEM, THBOUOH
OUDBBAl^DSDAIi AND OVER THE POVBE-
FJELD.
(By rail, str., cuid road.)
[Although this route is less and less taken
in its entirety (the Gmcient capital of Nor-
way being accessible by rail), it is given for
the benefit of traveUers who desire to enjoy,
in their leisure, the traditional pleasure of
posting in Norway by carriole or other con-
veyance. So many other grand and interest-
ing parts of the country have been opened by
the construction of roads and the develop-
ment of steam communication, that compara-
tively few are now tempted to avoid the
railway journey to Trondhjem merely for the
sake of crossing the Dovrefjdd.
The several sections of this route are :
1. Ohristiania to Eids-
void, by rail .
2. Eidsvold to Lilleham-
mer, by str. .
3. Lillehammer to Dom-
baas, by road .
4. Dombaas to StSren,
byroad .
6. StOren to Trondhjem,
by rail .
Total .
Dist. Time Cost
Idl. about kr.
68 3 hrs. 4.80
106 7 hrs. 6.SS
163 2idys.
164 2 dys
62 2Jhr8. 4.40*
3.)
f 61.00
8.)
642 6-7 dys. 76.75
» Expr.
82
Route 13. — Christiania to Trondhjem,
The posMng-rate Is 15 <5. per kil., exclusive
of fees to drivers. (See Rte. 12 for notes re-
specting Bennett's oarriages, &c.)]
In Bte. 12 will be found a descrip-
tion of sections 1-3 of this journey,
which therefore begins here witii
section 4.
4. DOMBAAS TO STOBSN.
From Dombaas, on the outskirts of
the Dovrefjeld (for description of
which see "Geography," in Intro-
diiction), a very steep ascent com-
mences, and the limit of the growth
of stunted fir, a wood of which is
passed, is soon left behind. Views
are obtained of the Lesje lake (on
the Molde rd.) After attaining the
plateau (1 hr.), the Foksaa^ one of the
large tributaries of the Glonmien, is
crossed. In about 2 hrs. (1 hr. in
reverse direction) the traveller reaches
Fokstuen (10 kil., pay for 11 kil.)
This stat. (3247 ft. above sea-level)
is now a large and good hotel,
[Tourists from the S. may here ascend the
Snehcetta, and descend to Jerkin, thereby
saving the distance between the 2 stats.
Drive to Nysseter (6 kil.) and walk to Grisungr-
vand (6 kU.), where the river must be waded
(if no boat). Thence round the Grisung-
knatten. At the mouth of the SvonaaeUU
valley the night can be passed in a mtn.-hut
(about 6 hrs. from Nysseter) and the foot of
SnehsBtta reached thence in 1 far. The Fok-
stue (5823 ft.) caa be ascended from the stat.
in 5 hrs., there and back. A guide should be
taken for both mtns., not on account of
danger, but to save time by using the easiest
paths.]
About midway on the next stage
some desolate-looking lakes, from
which iheFolla issues, will be passed.
Small trout can be caught here in
abundance. The scenery is wild and
dreary and vegetation scanty — a vast
undulating moorland, without large
or fine rocky outlines. A few stunted
birch are the only trees to be seen.
[The £k)vrefjeld mtns. afford the finest
botanical field in Norway, no less than 200
mosses, 160 lichens, 60 algas, and 439 phane-
rogamous plants and ferns having been
found there. Jerkin, Fokstuen, and Eongs-
vold are the best stats, for variety of rare
plants.]
The next stat. is
Hjerkin (Jerkin) (21 kil.) Excel-
lent : comfortable, clean, and charges
reasonable.
It dates as a Fjeldsttie or Hospice
from the early part of the 12th cent.,
like Fokstuen and Tofteon the S.W.,
and Eongsvold on the N.
This is a good centre for sports-
men — ptarmigan, wild duck, snipe,
and hares being plentiful. B&mdeer-
shootmg in this neighbourhood.
[From Jerkin a pretty road runs B. for
some distance through the Foldaly to LiUe
Elvedal stat. on the Trondhjem rly. (see next
Boute). The distances are : to'Dalen^ 17 kiL ;
Kroghaugeut 17 kiL; Byhaugen, 18 kiL ; and
Steien (close to Lille Elvedal), 82 kil.]
[EXCUBSION TO SNEHiETTA (7610 ft.)
Jerkin is an ezo^lent place whence to visit
this mtn., long considered to be the highest
in Norway, until careful measurements estab-
lished the superior height of several peaks in
the Jotunheim. Horse (also for guide) 6.60
kr. ; guide 3-4 kr. A day's provisions are
requisite, and can be procured at the stat.
Spirits should be brought if required.
The ascent is so gradual that much of the
effect of its great height is lost. Its peaked
summit is only about 8600 ft. above its base,
Eind about 4600 ft. above Jerkin.
If the weather be fine, the ascent may be
accomplished in less than 8 hrs., but 12 hrs.
should be allowed, 3 to 4 of them being occu-
pied in riding to the base of the mtn. by a path
along the course of the Soone river, which
it crosses several times, rending horses in-
dispensable (at least for ladies). The horses
are left (in about 8} hrs.) at a rook called
the " Station," above which is the •i>.*i»i»afm
tourists' hut, with 13 beds, where coffee,
sandwiches, Ac, are procurable. Thence
about 2^ hrs. tealking to the flat top, most of
it over the peculiar snow-ice found on the
highest summits of snow-mtns. The blocks
of mica-schist, over which the traveller has
often to scramble, are the d4bris of the mo-
raine from the eternal glacier at no great
distance from the summit. The view is fine —
to the N. a very wild prospect of mtns. ; to
the E. an immense tableland of moor. Sne-
hastta forms the N.W. extremity of one of
those ridges of high snow-mtns. which rise
out of the great tableland of moor that sepa-
rates the E. and W. declivities of the Nor-
wegian mtns. It rises much above the snow-
line, and contains true glaciers. It is in itself
picturesque : at the foot lies a little lake,
backed by glaciers, and those again by black
precipices, rising above them in the form of
an amphitheatre.]
On quitting Jerkin, the nearly level
road runs along the western i^ope of
Route 13, — Kongsvold; Drivstuen j Rise; Aune. 88
the hill which leads to the highest
point of the Dovrefjeld rd. and of
the country between Ghristiania and
Trondhjem. From the old road, which
rises to 4594 ft. above the sea, a fine
view of Snehaetta is obtained on the
1. The road begins to descend, from
this desolate region, to the iSvone river.
A deep glen, down which the Driva,
as the river is called after its con-
fluence with the Kaldvella (which re-
ceives the waters of the Svone), forms
a series of cataracts and falls. From
the bridge the new road joins the
old one, and the way continues by
the side of the Driva, and rapidly
descends and increases in grandeur
and picturesque effect. The variety
and richness of the mosses, lichens,
and herbage, and the warm colour
of the rocks, combine to produce a
charming picture. The stage ends
at
KongBvold (13 Ml., pay for 14 kil.
in reverse direction). An excellent
stat. 3063 ft. above sea-level. In
the event of Jerkin being full, this
is the next best place as head-
quarters for the fishmg and shooting
to be had in the region of the
SnehcBtta, which can also be easily
ascended hence, as well as the
KmUshlf (5645 ft.), which is of in-
terest to botanists.
The road continues close along the
rt. bank of the Driva, nearly all the
way to Bise, and is in many places
quarried out of the face of the rock.
After passing (on the 1.) the great
Troldet rock the Vaa/rstiaa is crossed.
It joins the Drwa as a waterfall
rushing down a narrow ravine. The
old precipitous road {VaarsHen) is
frequently passed. The scenery is
grand and picturesque: the valley
(frequently a ravine) is bounded by
high mtns. clothed with birch and
fir, fine in outline, and varying in
colour. The Alpine character of the
flora is often noticeable : good sub-
jects for the pencil all the way. The
cataracts of the Drwa give life to the
grandeur of the scenery. After about
an hour*s drive the valley widens, and
the hillsides become clothed with vege-
tation a little before the last (fourth)
mtn. Hospice is reached at
Drivstuen (15 kil.) Good stat.
Good trout-fishing in a neighbouring
lake, and small fish plentiful in the
Driva. Hence the road first ascends,
rising considerably above the river,
after which it rapidly descends
through a cutting, exposing strongly
marked stratified schistose layers.
The scenery is splendid, and the
ravine narrow towards the end
of the stage. When the river is
again joined, a pretty view of the
valley behind is Obtained, with snow-
capped mtns. in front. A short dis-
tance below a picturesque bridge the
traveller should leave the carriole
and walk a few yards off the road
to the Maagaalaupet a remarkable
narrow fissure in the rocky bed of
the river, through which the water
has eaten its way and now foams
and rushes along at a considerable
distance below the original surface.
There are also some fiine Waterfalls
close by. Hence the road winds to
Bise (12 kil., pay for 17 kil.) SmaU
stat. At about 1 kil. hence the Tin-
stra river is crossed, the road being
mostly flat, the valley widening out,
and the Driva becoming a fine stream.
At the hamlet of Ojpdal (where the
elevation is 1640 ft.) the road quits
the river and runs on to
Aune (10 Ml.) An excellent stat.,
and good quarters for fishing and
shooting. The Dovrefjeld is con-
sidered to end here. Fine views from
the Vangsfjeld and Aaalmenberg
(4428 ft.) ; both easily ascended in a
few hours.
[Here a good but hilly road, with grand
mtn. scenery, branches ofi, and continaes
down the str^un, through Sundalen, towards
Ohriatianwiiid (see Section IL) The stats
are—
AaOni (11 kU.) ; Sliper(U UL, pay for 18
and 91 kU.) ; Cfffhra (10 UL, pay for 14 in
reverse direction); atorfaU (17 UL, good
stat.); uidaundaMrm (19 Ul.). Posting-rate,
16 0. Henoe by str. (8| hrs.) or by posting
row-boat.]
The road continues N.B., leaving
the valley of the Driva to L, and
o2
84
Route 13. — Chriatiarda to Trondhjem.
follows the coarse of the Byna nntil it
joins the Orkla ; the soenery becomes
flat and tame, the mtns. lower, with
much birch and scrub.
The stage ends at
Stuen (14 kil.) Glean stat., in a very
pleasant situation, commanding a
fine view over the forest. Near this
the top of Snehffitta is visible.
After leaving Stuen, the foaming
Oi&na is crossed and followed to^ its
confluence with the OrltUiy which,
spanned by a fine bridge, forms a
waterfiJl here. After a steep ascent,
the traveller alights at
TTsBberg (Austbjerg) (11 kil.) Very
fair accommodation. In the distance
are seen mtns. (partly snow-tipped)
piled above each other, and covered
with dark pine and fir.
ik. good road (71 kil.) branohea off to
ToMet (dsterdaien) on Trondhjem rly. (See
next Boute.)]
The road continues to ascend
through a scanty pine-forest that
clothes the sides of the grand ravine
through which the Orkla flows, 1700
ft. below.
Half-way to the next stat., at a
bend in the road, the date of its con-
struction (1858) is carved in the rock,
while a cross marks the spot from
which a workman fell (1861) into the
ravine. The view over the giddying
precipice of the roadside, and up and
down the Orkla valley and to the
distant snow-mtns. (S.W.) is magni-
ficent from this point.
After passing a couple of small
streams, and lastly the Skawna
(whence there is a short road to the
Undals mines) 1 the traveller comes to
Bjerkaker (12 kil.) Good stat.,
finely situated on the watershed
between the Orkla and the Quia.
[A good rood (posting, 16 5.) leads down
the valley of the OrklOy and joins the high-
road between Molde and Trondhjem by the
following stag^ rlz. : Haamtad (14 kiL) ;
poor stat. At Hoel farm, before reaching
this stat., is a drinking-horn presented by
Christian V., out of which the first 3
sovereigns of the reigning house drank on
their way to coronation at l^ndhjem. There
is aJso a birch-tree 9 ft. in circumference. At
tJf farm (beyond) is an ancient wooden build-
ing, the carving on which is attributed to the
finger-nails of giants. Omt (14 kil.) ; cheap
but poor stat. Kalstad (11 kil.) ; and Oar-
bei^ (17 kiL) (Forrest of route to SurendcUs-
dreftt Christianntndf and Moldey see Section
n.) From Ealstad the road runs N. to Trond-
hjem, vid Aaarlivold (16 kil.) {sdLmon-flihing
in Orkla) ; Bak (12 kil.) ; "Sexym^OrieddUdren)
(8 kil.), whence str. for Trondhjem in 3| hrs.
Comfortable Hoiel^ and good trowt-fiihing in.
lakes ; Eli (BSrsen) (16 kiL, pay for 19 both
ways). Magnificent drive, but stage hilly.
Accommodation for about 4 travellers at Sli
farm, beautifully situated. Baltnaaaanden
(10 kiL) ; good level road hence to Trondhjem
in 2\ hrs. EaWS idL)(ffeimddl rly. stat. 1
kU. off) ; and TTBONSHJEai (14 kil.) (See
Sections II. and IIL)]
The road now turns N.E.» and tra-
verses tame and park-like scenery by
the side of the sluggish Igla, to
earUe (llj kil.) This stat. (very
good quarters) is some distance off the
road, up the side of the mtn. on the 1.
The horses may be ordered to wait
below. Beyond, the road keeps along
the very lugh banks of the Igla^ and
enters the SoknedaL Grossing the
Sokna river and passing a Ch,, the
stage ends at
PraBsthuuB (10 kil.) Inferior stat.
Many small farms in all direc-
tions, with much cultivation. The
soenery continues park-like until a
rapid descent leads down the mtn.,
through the wild, picturesque valley
of Ouldaly past StGren Gh. and Bly,
stat. (see next Boute), to
Engen rstoren) (14 kil.) Excellent
Hotel and good Restaurant at rly.
stat. Bermett's Agency close by. It
is better to drive straight to the rly.
stat. and deposit luggage. The sal-
mon-fishing (generally let to British
anglers) in the Oula^ and higher up,
about Rogstadt is excellent.
The post - road continues to
Trondhjem, vid Ler (19 kil.) ; Gimse
(MelJvus) (11 kU.); Esp {Heimdal)
(7 kil.); and
TBONBHJEM (14 kil.)
Nothing is gained by further post-
ing, and the country is quite as well
seen from the rly. as from the road.
(For continuation by rail (62 kil.)
see next Boute.)
Route 14, — Christiania to Trondhjem.
85
EOUTE 14.
0HBI8TIANU TO TROin>HJEM.
(By rail.)
Dist.
kiL
1. Christiania to BidsTold 68
S. EidBTOldtoTrondhjem 494
Total
Time
} 17ihri
Fare
kr.
a 43.74
S62 ir^hrs. 43.74
[The scenery upon this route is not so in-
teresting as that over the Dovrefjeld, but, for
reasons given at the head of the preceding
route, the rly. is rapidly gaining on the old
posting arrangements, levellers will, how-
ever, find some compensation in the beauty
of the Olommen valley, the wildness of the
fjeld watershed between it and the Ghila.
river, and the grandeur ol the ravine through
which the line passes before reaching Trond-
hjem. Until Rena stat. is reached, the 1. idde
offers the best view.]
1. For route to Eidsvold, see
Bte. 12.
2. From Eidsyold the stats, are —
Mixme (76 kil. &om Christiania).
The Vonnent which flows out of the
Mjdsen lake, is here crossed by an
iron bridge, 1180 ft. long, with a
height under the largest span of
about 47 ft. above ordinary summer
level. A tunnel (131 yds.) is passed.
tnven (84 kil.) The Skreifjeld
to the 1.
Espen (97 kil.) Curve made round
a long bay of the Mjdsen.
Tangen (102 kil.) Ch, passed.
Stange (114 kil.) Well-cultivated
district. Landscape pretty. The
Helgd island in the Mjdsen to 1.
Ottestad (119 kil.) The Akersvik
(bay) crossed by a long embank-
ment.
HAXAB^ (126 kil.), 417 ft. Buff.
(For description of tours, Ac, see
Bte. 12.)
[lUy. in oonstraotion to Lillehammer and
8el in GudbrandsdiJ, to which a post-road
nms henoe (Bte. 12).]
Carriages are changed 'here for the
narrow-gauge (3J ft.) line beyond.
The 6 succeeding stats., at which
the express does not stop, are of no
interest, the train ascending a thinly
populated and only partly wooded
region of Hedemarken.
Elvemm ^ (168 kil.), 613 ft. Bujf.
This is the first stat. in l£e
valley of the Olommen, the longest
river in Norway (see Bte. 2), which is
here crossed by a fine iron bridge (300
yds.), resting on 7 stone pillars from
76 to 140 ft. apart. It is a place
of some importance, and the site of
one of the largest fairs in Norway
for the sale of horses and timber (in
March). There are many town-like
houses around the Ch,
The traveller is now in Osterdalen,
a prefecture distinguished for the
well-being of its stalwart yeoman
farmers, who have amassed wealth by
the products of their vast forests.
The ancient characteristics of their
dwellings, &o., are well maintained,
and exhibit a relative luxury and re-
finement that has no doubt been
derived as much from affluence as
from contiguity with Sweden.
[A road (5 stages) runs hence K Jl. towards
Tiysil (73 kiL), on the river of that name,
and to the Swedish border. Posting-rate
11 6. per UL (Pay for 98 kiL) Another
high-road leads S. to Konysvinger (99 kiL)
on line to Stockholm.]
On leaving Elverum, the remains
of ChristiansQeld fortress (1683-
1742), the sole survival of the forti-
fications that once defended the pas-
sage of the Glommen at this point,
will be passed to the rt. The train
runs through 2 small stats., near
the second of which the Aasta falls
into the Glommen, now on the rt.
Bena (190 kil.), 736 ft. Bvff.
Near the junction of the Bena, which
runs out of StorsjQ lake. The streams
86
Route 14. — Ghristiania to Trondhjem*
and lakes in this district afford
tolerably good trout-fishmg (end of
July and in Aug.)
The blackgame-sAoofinof is also
good in the vicinity. Bportsmen will
find accommodation in the Iwns near
the Ch. (Acmot).
[A poet-rood nuis off to DUoBi (26 kiL) ;
Lbset (8 kil., but pay for 11 kil.) ; hence to
Stored lake (4 kiL) ; Andraa in RendcUen (30
kiL from I^set, pay for 88 kil.) ; hence aoro€«
the lake (6 kiL) to BuruMi, whence the road
mns N. to T6nset (see below), aa well as to
0$en^S lake.1
The line crosses the Glommen,
and proceeds on its eastern side
through a richly wooded valley,
near
Stenvig^en (204 kil.) First stat. in
style of Osterdal architecture. On
leaving, the mtns. begin to rise and
the valleys to contract.
After running through Ophus and
Basta stats., a pretty part of the
route is reached at
Stai (237 kil.), 863 ft. After
a considerable ascent, a short tunnel,
and a high stone wall on which the
line is built, with a pretty view of
the many branches of the Glommen,
the train reaches the centre of the
Storelvdal and runs into
Koppang« (247 kU.), 1158 ft.
Buff. Although a good view of the
valley is obtained from the stat., it
is best from Koppanghammer hill
(about 1400 ft.), which can be as-
cended in about ^ an hr.
[A road mns hence (1.) to the Stored, where
trout'flshing is obtainable (see above), as well
as to Kendalen and Tdnaet The great
* Fcsmund lake can be reached hence by the
hardy, but is more easily accessible from
Bbros (see below).3
On leaving Eoppang the rly. parts
company with the post-road, the
latter ascending the Marafjeld^ and
descending on the other side to the
valley of the Bena,
Continuing to ftfloend the wooded
valley of the (?iowwte»i, which, crossed
successively by 2 bridges, is seen
running below at a great depth, the
train passes through
Bjoraaneset stat. (262 kil.) Much
reindeer moss and Epilobium (of
which the roots and young shoots
are locally eaten after having been
dried).
Atna (272 kil.) GKmxI quarters
at stat. To the 1. will be seen the
mouth of the Atnedah down which
flows the Atna river, after issuing from
the Atnsjtf, in the Bondane mins,
[The Atrug'S can be reached in abont 10
hrs. by driving across the OUmimen and up
the Atnedal. The road is good to Hirbroen
(bridge), whence it is bad to StorQeldaseter
(a summer Peruion. about 20 kiL from
Atna) and to MorbcBkaioen (21 klL) After
passing BoUien Ch. (5 kiL), the road is
again good to Atnebroen (bridge), (21 klL)
Here the Solen^eld (6173 ft.) is visible. The
road continues N. to KroUiaugen (33 klL)
between Jerkin (Bte. 13) and LUle Elvedalen
(see below). Pedestrians can reach Gnd-
brandsdalen also by several mtn.-paths.]
HaneBtad (285 kil.), 1253 ft. The
OrbHngsbrattm (8903 ft.) to the 1.
.. [A road hence over the mtns. to LSkken, in
Ovre Hendalen, 22 klL]
After passing (previously in view
of 2 tops of the Bellmgen) the Bar-
kalden-io^ of the Olommen, the stat.
is
Barkald (304 kil.) Good road to
Midtskogen, in TyldaUn (6 kil.) At
a short distance on it a path runs
off to the remarkable Jutulhugget
gorge, open only on the E., and sepa-
rated from the Glommen by a low
ridge, which terminates in precipi-
tous sides. Locally, it is reputed to
have been formed by a giant, who at-
tempted to divert the Glommen into
the Tysla (in Tyldal), 131 ft. below
the former. The gorge, with its fan-
tastically shaped rocks, is worth visit-
ing at sunset (about 1 hr. required).
The valley widens and farms increase
in number along the flat banks of the
river before a stoppskge is made at
LiUe Elvedal stat. (824 kil.), 1660 ft.
Buff, Comfortable quarters at Steien
posting-stat. This place is at the
foot of the TronfjeU (6707 ft.), the
highest peak of which is seen soon
after leaving the stat. Several fine
views and ascents in the neighbour-
Route 14. — Timset; Borot; Jensvotd.
87
hood ; also trout a.nd grayling fishing ^
and shooting. Healthy spot for in-
valids.
[A road hence np the Elvedal to Jerkin
(Bte. 13), and its posting communications
with the W. coast, &c. The stats, are :
Byhaugen (82 kil.) ; Krokhaugen (18 kil.) ;
Balholen (13 kiL, pay for 17); Jerkin
mjerkin) (17 kil.) Posting-rate, 11 o. per
kil.]
Hence 2 bridges are crossed, the
base of the Tronfjeld skirted, and the
other side of the Auma river reached at
Anma stat. (337 kil.) Dreary
scenery.
ToBset * (347 Ml.), 1617 ft. Buff,
Prettily situated at the confluence of
the TlSnna with the Olommm, The
hills recede on either side, leaving a
broad expanse of fertile meadow-land
in the midst of a wide and compara-
tively populous valley.
[A post-ioad runs hence through Evikne
to ITssbezg {AiLstljerg) on the high-road to
Trondhjem (Rte. 13). The stats, are : Fos-
bakken (14 kil., pay for 17) ; Nytroen (10 kil.,
pay 12) ; 8t5en:(10 kiL, pay 17) ; Frengstad
?near Kvikne), (14 kil., pay 17) ; Naaveraalen
(12 kil., pay 17 in reverse direction) ; TJss-
berg (11 kil.)]
TelneBet stat. (358 kil.) The train
ascends rapidly, woods becoming
small and pasturage more extensive.
Tolgen (368 kil.), 1781 ft. Many
farms, and Ch, on opposite side.
Keeping along the rt. bank of the
Glommen, now small and very rapid,
the train passes through
Os stat. (385 kil.), 1975 ft. The
Hummdfjeld (5150 ft.) is kept in
view (to rt.) while crossing the Raa-
elv and traversing a sandy region to
the first stat. in the " Stift ' ' of Trond-
hjem:
SdBOB ^ (399 kil.), 2060 ft. Buff
This is a town of about 2000 inhabi-
tants, on a barren plateau watered by
the HiUer-eh), the Glonmien making
a bend W. of it. It was founded
in 1646, after the discovery of the
neighbouring Copper-mmes.
The Mines, which are in private
hands, are no longer so prosperous
as formerly. Nevertheless they yield
about 300 tons of metal, the ore
being smelted with British coal since
the exhaustion of the forests in the
vicinity. As the lodes run nearly
horizontally, some of the workings are
accessible by carts. There are also
shafts that descend to nearly 300 fms.
There is but little husbandry, on
account of the altitude and severity
of the climate, but cattle-breeding
is largely pursued, the detritus of
glaciers and the sandy soil having
been converted into good pasture by
much labour and manure. Mercury
has been known to freeze here in the
winter, of which the length is quite
8 months.
The Smelting-house, the Mines,
and the Ch, are objects of interest.
In the ch. (built 1780) are portraits
of discoverers of lodes, and of man-
agers and ecclesiastics.
[A post-road runs henoe (E.) to the elevated
FcBtnund lake (56 kil. long), which is worth
visiting, especially for the purpose of taking
the fine trout in it. The N. end is the best,
but experienced British anglers are generally
in occupation of the limited accommodation
(and boats) available. The stats, are S»teren
(17 kU.) ; Langen (18 kil.) Walk thence to
Sonderviken ($ hr.) to str., whioh runs down
the lake, stopping at several places. At
Fssmundsenden is a good Hotel, and a road
into Sweden.
Another (good) road (more northerly) runs
to Uahnagen in Sweden. Stats. : Jensvold
(17 kiL) ; Bkotgaarden (18 kil.) ; and Ual-
magen (22 kil.) In this direction, on the
Viffel fjeldy Lapps are oocasionaUy found
encamped, but inquiries should first be made
and gruides procured, the pursuit of such
encampments being difiicult and laborious.
From Bkotgaarden an excursion can be made
by road to the pass of SkardSren and the
Stue^6 lake (7 hrs.), at the S. end of which is
Stuedalen, 11 kil. from the previous stat.
At Storelvoldaater 5 beds for tourists. Fine
view of the Vigel peak, the SkarvdOtt fjeUiy
&c. From Stuedalen there is a good road
down the 7\fndai valley to Selbu, whence
Trondhjem is easily reached.]
In its course from Boros the train
stops at
Nypladsen (406 kU.), 2057 ft.
The turbulent higher waters of the
Glommen are crossed before the next
stat., not far from which (rt.) is the
Auarsund lake (2283 ft.) from which
that river issues.
Jensvold (412 kil.), 2093 ft. After
passing a lake (1.), a stone pillar is
88
Route 14, — ChrisUaTida to Trondhjem.
seen on the same side, indicating the
highest point of the line ^2198 ft.)
on the watershed between tne Olom-
men and the Quia. The valley of the
latter is later descended as far as
Melhus (see below).
Tyvold (420 kil.), 2178 ft. To the
1. is a branch line to one of the
mines. The most interesting part of
the line begins here. Best views on
the 1. A viaduct (107 ft.) over the
Gula brings the train to
Beitan (432 kil.), 1774 ft. Through
cuttings, with peeps of the well-cul-
tivated Guldal valley, the bottom
of which soon becomes wooded and
rocky. Aalen Ch. to 1. The next
stat. is
Eidet (442 kil.), 1381 ft. Buff,
Reindeer are to be seen in the neigh-
bourhood of the Qa/raaen (reached
through Hesjedal), where they are
almost daily driven in to be milked.
The rly. now runs at a high level
through several short tunnels and cut-
tings, and, traversing the DrlHUemet
crosses (after the fifth tunnel) the
DriHa by a bridge 144 ft. high. With
the parish Ch* to the 1., the train soon
reaches
Holtaalen (454 kil.), 987 ft. A
picturesque assemblage of farm
buildings. Native costumes have
partially survived in this district —
red jackets, leather breeches, and
peaked woollen caps being sometimes
still worn by the men. The scenery
of the Gula valley develops as the
train proceeds to
Langlete (463 ML), 774 ft.
Beitstoen (472 kil.), 672 ft.
Singl3aas (480 kil.), 677 ft. Buff,
A pretty Waterfall beyond to 1., and
parish Ch, The mouth of the Forra-
dalf with terraces of debris on the
same side.
Bjorgen (486 kil.), 482 ft.
Boenaes (499 kil.), 316 ft., and
STffBJEar (610 kil.), 210 ft. Buff,
The Dovrefjeld post-road here joins
that from the Glommen valley.
Keeping N., the rly. continues
along the bank of the Ofula (crossed
at Storen), which winds its rapid
course through a dark ravine; the
mtns. on either side and in the dis-
tance being clothed with pine and fir
to their summits. The scenery is
remarkably fine. Numerous lateral
valleys pour their tributary streams
into the Gula.
Glimpses of the distant lakes from
which the rivers of these side- valleys
flow are obtained here and there on
the horizon in clear weather.
[The gaJmon-fishingin. the G!-ula,both above
and below Stbren, is good, but the best reaches
are generally occupied by British tenants on
long leases. Inquire at Trondhjem for yacan-
cies or facilities.]
The unimportant stopping stats,
between Storen and Trondhjem are —
Hovin (617 kil.), 174 ft.
Lundemo (624 kil.), 108 ft. Near
this the stream expands into a small
lake, and a smaU river is crossed.
Ler (630 kil.), 79 ft. The line
continues along the winding Gula,
mtns. becoming more rounded and
decreasing in boldness, but still
covered with forests along the higher
points. Numbers of farms on both
sides of the valley.
Kvaal Stat. (636 kil.), 161 ft.
Sdberg (638 kil.), 102 ft. GUmpses
of the Selbu lake and of the valley
of the Nid are obtained on the rt.
The line now recedes from the
Gula and passes Melhus Ch,f ascend-
ing rounded hills and broken, pic-
turesque ground, highly cultivated in
places. Turning E., it enters the
valley of the Nid.
Melliiis (641 kil.), 76 ft. The
stat. is beautifully placed on the
crown of a small hill, with fir-clad
mtns. towering above each other
in the background, and the valley
winding away into the far distance on
thert.
The ascent is continued, with
pretty views to the 1. of the Orke-
dais fjord and the Gulosen branch
of the Trondhjem fjords into which
falls the Gula, now 1. Terraces of
glacial origin.
The next small. stat. is
Nypan (646 Ml.), 230 ft. A snow-
capped mtn. visible W. After a steep
Route 15. — Gh/ristiama to Chrisiianscmd,
89
ascent the line attains an altitude of
462 ft. at
Heimdal (551 Idl.) The line is
here almost level, and passes many
farms and villas. In the valley of
the Nid will be seen (rt.) the Lille
Ler-fos (salmon and sea-trout fisfdng
Bometinies available), and, following
the 1. bank of that river, the train runs
round the N. side of the city by a
bridge, with views of the old Fortress
of Christianstent Hen ch,^ and the
fjord, and enters its terminus at
TBONBHJEM (562 kil.) (For de-
scription, &c., see Section ni. of
Ha^book.)
ROUTE 15.
CHBISTIANU TO CHBISTXANSAND, Vtd
INTEBHEDIATE PORTS.
(By str.)
[Distance, 889 kiL (89 Norwegian nant*
m.) Time, 13 to 30 hrs. (according to size
of str. and the number of ports called at^.
Fare, 18.45 kr. Redaction for a family, wife
paying half &re. Food, 5 kr. per day, if not
separately per meal. By the Wilson line
direct in 13-16 hrs. Fare, 20s. 6d. A Kor-
wegian mail str., with excellent accommo-
dation, leaves Gl^stiania nightly in summer
for Bergen, stopping generally at places
mentioned below before reaching Ohristian-
sand. (Ck>nsnlt time-tables.) This rente is
▼er^ enjovable in summer, and being almost
entirely (by the Korw^ian strs.) within the
** Skerries,*'^ or rocks and islands girding the
coast, gives no opportunity for the develop-
ment of sea-sickness, even when exception-
ally incurred at the few and short stretches
open to the waves of the Skagerak.
Travellers who desire to break the voyage
will find local strs. available between most
of the intermediate ports, in addition to the
larger daily mail-packets.]
The scenery in the upper part of
the Ghristiania fjord has been de-
scribed in Bte. 1. Stopping-places :
Horten ^f * IT 4 hrs. / ^^^ ^^' ^^'
VaUo*, „ 4 » (seeEte. 4).
Thence S. round Ndterd and,
generally, through the small but
pretty Vrcengen Sound, between the
latter island and that of Tj&mo,
which the str. leaves on the 1. before
steering out to Fcerder lighthouse
(Bte. 1), where the Ghristiania fjord
is considered to commence. There is
a short bit of open sea here (fre-
quently rough). The TOnsberg Tande,
a high rock polished by the action of
the waves, and with a beacon on it,
will be seen, as well as the mouth
of the Sa/ndefjordf passing which the
str. turns into the fjord of
Laarvik«(7i hrs.), (see Bte. 4).
There is generally a stoppage here of
about ^ an hr. for the discharge and
loading of cargo. In ^ an hr. after
starting the str. touches at
Frederiksvism (see Bte. 4).
Here, again, the str. proceeds to sea
along the unprotected coast of Bnm-
laugncBset, and in about 1^ hr. enters
the rocky Lamgesund fjords and,
taking one of the two available chan-
nels, calls at
langesimd (141 kil.) Brit Vice-
ConsuL for this port and Brevik.
This is a wretched-looking little place
with about 1200 inhabitants. No
decent accommodation.
[A local str. waits to convey passengers,
&c. to Porsgrund and Skien (see Rte. 4), in
about 2j^ hrs., vid Brevik,* a forettily situated
town (about 2000 inhabitants), which is
reached in ^ an hr., opposite the pretty ship-
ping place of Stathdle. There are also post-
roads to Brevik, Skien, and KragerS (43
kil.)]
After a short run (again in the
open sea) across the Bognsfjord,
the str. returns within the islands
and rocks (mostly bare), and enters
either the Langaarsund {Langesunds
Kr^ppa), a strait so narrow that it
seems possible to jump out on the
rocks, on either side, or (in the case
90
Route 16. — Ohristiania to Ohristiansand.
of a large vessel) the broader channel
nside the Jomfrulandf a long and
narrow island, on which is a light-
house. In about 1^ hr. it is moored
at-
Kragero^ (153 kil.) Bnt Vice-
Consul. This is a cheerful-looking
and prettily situated town (pop.
5800), with a background of wooded
hills. It has a considerable trade,
and owns much shipping. It boasts
of a Monument (a bust) to Prof.
Sohweigaard, a native of the place
whose statue is in front of the
university at Ohristiania. In the
neighbourhood are some iron and
apatite (phosphate of lime) mines.
[The post-road westward, a continuation
of the road from Langesnnd, is not good.
Mail or local strs. preferable.
Telemarken can be reached from EragerS
by a good new road (114 Ml.) to Kirkebo
(Hviteseid) in about 20 hrs. It leads through
a thinly populated district, with large forests,
the scenery, however, being in many places
yery fine. A carriole must be used, as the
road is narrow. The quarters [are poor, and
provisions should be taken. The stats,
are —
Stoen (10 kil.)
Hatrkebak (12 kiL) A fine road runs
hence (24 kil.) to Kjeaasen, but it is best to
cross the pretty Tokevand by one of the small
strs. that ply on the lake, which is 187 ft.
above sea-level, about 12 sq. m. in area, and
dotted with many islets. Its N. part is called
the Hoseidvand. In 1^ hr. the str. reaches
^ieaasen, where posting ia resumed to
118, in Tttrdal (21 kiL) The road runs
through large forests along the F&mces^lv
and the JEiJorvand (where there is trout-fishingt
although better sport is obtainable in the
Kleppevandy a mtn.-lake 7 kil. from Bb). The
next Stat, is
Strand (33 kil.)> the stage running through
a pretty valley hemmed in by mtns. on either
side. The route ends at
KIBKEBO (Hvitewud) (14kll.) See Rte. 5.]
In about 2 hrs. the str. reaches
Bister * (Osterrisor). Brit Vice-
Consul, A quiet little seaport town
(3000 inhabitants) close to the sea,
the breezes from which in summer
are refreshing. Apatite is raised
in the neighbourhood. The con-
tiguous 8l5ndeUd fjord^ with a
river issuing from a lake, is worth
visiting by the local str. There is
trout-fishmg in the lake, but the
river is generally too much obstructed
by logs. There is a pretty, old Oh.
(11 kil.) at the head of the fjord (good
sea-fishing^ also salmon and sea-trout
in it), and several farms at the moath
of the river with good accommoda-
tion. Much shipping owned here.
[Oommnnication by local str. with Aren-
dal.]
The next place stopped at, without
anchoring, is
lyngor, a land-looked basin in
which (July 1812) the "Dictator," an
English battleship (64 guns), de-
stroyed the Danish frigate "Naja-
den " (42 guns). A conmiemorative
pillar seen on tne rocks.
Winding next between wooded
islands, the str. disembarks passengers
and goods at Dyngo for Tvedestrand.
[Only the small strs. run into Tvedestrand
pop. 1700), where there is a post-road to
^elemarken, more easily taken from Arendal
(see below, and Bte. 16).]
%
In 2^ hrs. more the mail str.
reaches (early in the morning)
Arendal « (233 kilJl BrU. Vice-
Consul, Pop. 4500. This is a pretty
town (enfranchised 1723), built partly
on the mainland and on rocks pro-
jecting into the channel formed by a
belt of islands, and near the mouth
of the Nid,
From the quay at which the
str. stops, ascend by some steps
(rt.) to a terrace with trees (Ovre-
Batteri)t from which an excellent
view is obtained. Ten min. suffi-
cient. There is also a good and
pretty road {Ca^stel Veien) up to it.
The principal street is broad and
well laid out. The handsome red-
brick Ch., which occupies a com-
manding position, was built in 1889.
The citizens own more sailing-ships
than any other port in Norway, and
do a considerable trade. They have a
Mu^seum (^some pictures, porkaits of
local oeleDrities, antiquities, &e,), a
Theatre, and an Art-association, In
the neighbourhood are some iron and
other mines.
A small str. ascends the Nid, bor-
Route 16. — Arendal to Telemarken.
91
dered by villas, for about 13 kil.,
through pretty scenery. Above Hello
(its terminus) is the Rygende-foSy
which is worth seeing. There are
pretty walks in the Hove-skov (wood),
on Tromb island, which, with JSisG
island, borders on either side the
channel taken by the str. on her
further course.
[Local strs. run to CQuistianBaxid and 2
post-roads to Orimstad (19 and 21 kfl.)
There is also a post-road to Faret in SoBters-
dalen (90 klL, 5 stats.)
(For road to Telemarken^ see Bte. 16.)]
After passing 2 lighthonses (To-
rungeme) a short stretch of open sea
will be traversed before shelter is
again found inside the JSesnestkr,
forming a splendid harbour well
known in the middle ages, and where
Christian IL of Denmark landed,
1531. In about 1 hr. the str. calls at
Orim8tad,«in the Qrosfjord, also
a shipping and trading port (pop.
3200), incorporated 1816. There are
ironworks, shipbuilding'y£u:ds, &c., in
the neighbourhood.
[A splendid, luotnresque road runs to the
Hejrtfo^jord, passing 2 other lakes, one of
which (Soule) is surromided by high cUfte.
It branches off to HSxtei, sitnated in the
middle of a forest, on a oonsiderable eminence,
from which is a beantifnl view of 7 lakes.
From Hbrte a good, new road leads to Aren-
dal, which can be visited in 6 hr& (there and
back).]
The coast scenery is dreary as
far as
Lilleiand, «a port (1600 inhabi-
tants) at the head of a small bay.
The country around it is pretty, and
close by are the harbours of Hom-
hoTgBgrjuidf Braekkesto, and Gamle
Hellesnndi with pilot and Customs
stats., and excellent mctckerel- fishing.
On the sea-coast between this point
and Christiansand a Bussian Mgate
was lost with all hands (except one) in
1842. Soon after passing through the
long RandGsundfihe smaW Lighthouse
on Orbnningen is sighted, and, more
to the W., the more important one of
Okso, with a semaphore signalling
apparatus. The eastern harbour of
Christiansand next opens, with the
valley of the Torrisdal river in the
background ; and, after passing
OddertSen light and rounding an old
fortification, the str. lands passengers
(4 hrs. from Arendal) at
CHfilSTIAHSAin) (see Bte. 1, and
next Section).
ROUTE 16.
ABEXDAL, OB TVEDESTBAND, TO
TELEMABEEN.
(By road.)
[This rente (distance from Arendal 150 kil.)
has not yet been taken frequently, but de-
serves exploration, especially in combination
with the good trovU-fiihing in the fine NUter-
vandf 34 kil. long. ]
The stats, from Arendal are
Brekke (11 kil.)
Tvedestrand (15 kil.) (See Bte. 15.)
Uberg (15 kil.)
Simonstad (Aamlid) (18 kil.)
Beautifully wooded country. One of
the places in Norway where colonies
of the heaver are still found. Con-
tinuing along the bank of the Nid^
by a road partly flat, partly excavated
out of the hillside, and crossing the
Stikvas-elv, the traveller reaches
Kergaarden (13 kil.) Gk>od quar-
ters. Hotel to 1., above stat. A
narrow valley is then entered with
steep mtn.-sides on 1.; after which
the road runs along a heath and past
the Olstad farms (rt. side of the
river), at the foot of the Olstadfjeld,
92
Route 17. — Christiansamd to Telemarken.
More heaths, and bridges across 2
rivers near their oonfluenoe with the
Nid, which is then partly followed.
Crossing a brook ^curU-eVo) beyond
a long stretch of plain, the road
ascends to
01 stat. (16 kil.) Good quarters.
The brook is followed, and then over
m£u:shes and heather. Beyond, the
Nid is kept to the 1., and crossed by a
ferry. The HGgfoa is then seen from
the road, and also another, smaller
waterfall. The Bau-elv is crossed at
its junction with the Nid, and, a little
beyond, on the 1., a road runs off to
the Fyresdal, leading to a lake of the
same name. After passing Eids-
Ijemet, Aasen, and Treungen C^., the
stage ends at
Tveitslaa (19 kil.), close to
Tveitstmd, at the S. end of Nisser
lake {trout-fishmg).
The road now runs along the shore
of Lake Nisser to
Bakka (Nissedal) (19 kil.) Two
further posting-stages can be saved
by taking the small str. which runs
several times a week to the head of
the lake, from which Strand (in
Vraadal) is quickly reached. A rapid
descent brings the traveller thence
(7 kil.) to
HVIDEBEID, on the Hvides^d, con-
nected with the Bandak lake (see
Kte. 5).
BOUTE 17.
CHBISTIANSAND TO TELEMARKEN,
THBOUOH S^TEBSDAIiBN.
(By road.)
[Seatersdalen will well repay the present
relatiye, but fleeting, disooniorts of the tour
here sketched, which can even now be
easily done by ladies. It is watered nearly
throughout its entire length from N. to S.
by the Otteraa (Tarriidal8-elv)j which falls
into the sea at Ghristiuisand, after a course
of 226 kil., and forms a chain of lakes,
large and small. Including that of lateral
valleys the pop. of Saetersdalen numbers
about 23,000. The ancient dress and
habits of the people, almost exceptionally
preserved, are not among the least
of the attractions. Although the winter
dwelling-houses are genenUly not older than
the 17th cent., the rough cabins with an
aperture in the roof in lieu of a chimney (to
this day found also in Russia) are of the
middle of the 17th cent., the oldest being
interesting types of almost aboriginal local
habitations. Much folklore is current and
superstition still rife. The dialect is peculiar,
and its aflOnity to the Scottish is attributed
to a supposed infusion of Scottish blood at a
remote period.
A rly. (171 kil.) in construction to the
Byglandsfjord (see below) will, from about
1895, greatly contribute towards removing
most of the objectionable features that
render SaBteradalen a somewhat exceptional
district in Norway.
The posting is at the usual rate of 16 '6,
per kil. at fast stats., and 11 'o. at others.
The journey from Ohristiansand to Dalen
in Tdemarken can be easily done in 5 days.
Provisiaru and ifueet-poteder should be
taken.]
The distance to Viken, the last
posting-stat., is 155 kil. (pay for
164 kil.), but it is somewhat re-
duced by recourse to strs. on lakes.
The stages are —
Mosbo (11 kil.), can be reached by
str. &om Ohristiansand.
Route 17. — Beiersdal; Ose; ViJcen.
93
JEleierBdal (17 kil., pay for 22).
The Langevand is left to the rt., also
2 other lakes and the small Ch. of
Hcegeland. After driving for about
1 kU. along the shore of the Kile-
fford (460 ft.), the end of the stage is
res/jhed at
Kile (13 Ml., pay for 17). Good
quarters supplied by master of str.
This point is generally reached direot
(6 hrs.) from Ghristiansand in a
carriole or carriage and pair. A halt
here for the night is recommended
by one of the most recent travellers
by this route.^ The next posting-
stage is
Faret (21 kil.) ;' but a small str.
plies almost every day from Eile to
the Eije Nickel-vjorks^ stopping at
Faret and Daasnes, about 3 kil.
below the Fenne/oat where there is a
good hotel. There is Another hotel
(" Dolen ") above the waterfall, on 1.
side of the river. There is fairly good
trout-fishmg in the lake. The
scenery on the Kilefjord (20 kil.)
is pleasant and attractive to an artist
or photographer. From Faret the
posting-road runs along the rt. bank
of the river, through a broad valley
bordered by low mtns. The Vaalefos
is passed, and to the rt. is visible the
Aardalsknut (2480 ft.) After a short
stretch of bog and moor is
Ooldsmedmoen stat. (14 kil.)
Inn kept by the master of the str.
that runs in about 4 hrs. up the
Aardalsfjordy the Faanefjordy and
the Bygiandsfjord (to which the rly.
in construction will run) to
KsBset, and thence in 20 min. to
Seeterdaleni Somxnerlgem ^ ("Sum-
mer home "). This is a healthful,
pleasant resort, affording excellent
accommodation on an extensive scale.
Good trout-flsMng in the neighbour-
hood.
Bygland stat. (2 kil. from NsBset)
is a good place for anglers, who
should make the " Sommerhjem "
their headquarters.
If the depth of water in the river
» " The Seatersdal and S. Norway." By
Alice Ogilvie. Ediuburgb, 1891.
permits, a small str. runs up to
FriHsncBSy and 6 Ml. beyond, to Ose.
But it is most frequently necessary
to post from the " Summer home"
to
Ose (17 kil. by road from NsBset,
42 kil. from Guldsmedmoen, and
79 Ml. from Kile). The str., how-
ever, under favourable circumstances
continues its course to StrGmmen
(22 Ml.), to TJrdvikj where a sluice
is passed, and to Fr^isnms, where the
Ghristiansand Tourist Association has
flshmg quarters.
At Ose are 2 old carved Stdbttra
(storehouse), one with stairs formed
of a single huge log, in which the
steps have been hollowed out by fire.
A bridal dress, silver ornaments, and
various other curiosities are exhibited.
There is a mtn.-path hence to
Fyresdal, The atolkjcBrre will take
the traveller to the next stat.,
Helle (20 kil.) Tolerable accom-
modation. The valley again runs
W., with steep mtn.-sides on the rt.
and large farms on green patches to
the 1. HyUeatad ch. is passed before
turning N. and crossing the Faraaen
river, which forms a waterfall, and is
later passed by a bridge at the point
where it opens from the small, wild-
looking Flaaen lake. With the Hal-
landafoa on the rt., the road runs
over to the rt. side of the river, open-
ing a view of VaUe "church-town.**
Soon after passing Aakre, where
some remarkable giant's cauldrons
can be inspected (to the 1.), the stage
ends at
Yiken (20 Ml.) Comfortable quar-
ters at the storekeeper's. In Valle
Ch. the altar-piece is interesting, as
are also the more or less ancient
farms in the vicinity.
[There is a road hence to Bpklum (31 kil.),
▼i& J^Omeraa and TrycUU, Tolerable accom-
modation.]
Here, saddle-horses and guides
must be engaged for Dalen (20 kr.
per horse and guide). Ladies' riding
appliances defective, horses some-
wl^t scarce, and luggage must be
94
Route 17. — Gh/ristiansand to TelemarJcen,
limited to what can conveniently be
carried on horseback.
The bridle-path begins at Flate-
land (1} hr. from Viken). It is
strewn with rocks and stones. A
ravine, many hundred ft. deep, is a
short distance off the track. As at
the Bavngjw) (see Bte. 5), the current
of air is so strong that it throws up
twigs, &c. that are cast into the
abyss. After a bivouac for refresh-
ment, the traveller wiU, after scram-
bling over rocks and plunging through
marshes, reach (in about 5^ hrs.
from Flateland) the Btor BjGmeyand,
over which a Doat will ti^e him, in
\ an hr., to the Tourist hut (2 cabins,
with 6 berths). There is trout-fish-
ing in the lake and in many of the
neighbouring waters, to which mtn.-
paths lead.
After passing the night at the
relatively cheery hut, the traveller
will be taken by boat to the point
where the horses are in waiting.
After a halt early in the afternoon, the
tramp is continued over a still worse
part of the route, being a continuous
scramble over rocks and across bogs
and streams. Occasionally lakes and
views of distant blue mtns. render
the scenery beautiful. In 8 or 9 hrs.
froih the hut a good road will be
reached from which the great Bandak
is visible. Descending towards the
northern extremity of that lake, rest
and perfect comfort will be attained
at
DALEN. (For description, and route
to the Hardanger, see Bte. 5.)
Section II
WESTERN NORWAY
FROM OHBISTIANSAND TO TBONDHJEM
98 Route 18. — Christiansand to Egersund and Siavanger.
Undal, and Lyngdal riyers (see chap-
ter on " Angling ' '). The neighbouring
lakes are also well stocked with trout.
A good and pretty road runs along
the Mandal river to Aaseral « (82
kil.), where a Sanatorium has been
established in picturesque scenery.
Exceptionally good trout-fishing.
The voyage will be continued with
Mandal and BisGr Bank to the rt.,
and the open sea will be passed round
Cape LindesncBS (the Naze), on which
stands the oldest Norwegian light-
house, originally established in its
immediate neighbourhood in the
middle of the 17th cent. In about
3 hrs. the str. stops for a short time
at
Farsnnd « (pop. 1650. Brit,
Vice-Consul)y a seaport town with
no attractions, and affording only a
view of the Lyngdalsfjord (rich in
salmon) and its branches, hemmed in
by mtns. In that fjord is one of
the largest Government Nv/rserieSt
from which the S. and E. of Norway
are supplied with young trees.
To Farsund, however, belongs a
large amount of shipping (sailing
vessels of an aggregate burden of
40,000 reg. tons), employed in the
foreign trade. It is also one of the
principal places in Norway from
which fresh fish is exported in ice.
On leaving, the str. passes through a
short stretch of open sea, skirts the
low Listerland, on which is a tall
lighthouse, and, turning into the lAs-
terfjord and later into the Stolsfjord
and the FUkkefjord^ reaches (in
about 4 hrs.) the quay of the shel-
tered harbour of
Flekkeijord. « Pop. 1652. Brit.
Vice-Consvl, The town is prettily
situated with mountainous surround-
ings. Its chief industry is the tan-
ning of Brazilian ox-hides. The
salmon^ m/ickerelj and lobster fisheries
are important. Fedde, in the fjord
of that name, and into which the
^vina river (rich in salmon^ and leased
at a high price) falls, is about 10 kil.
S.E. of the town. To the N. is the
Siredal and the Siredalvand (a la^e
25| kil. long), which falls into the
Lundevand (a long lake W. of the
Flekkefjord). A str. plies on these 2
lakes, from which the Sire discharges
its waters into the sea as a fos. A
splendid ladder has been erected here
by the Aaen Sire Salmon Fishery
Co, to enable salmon to ascend, and
large quantities of salmon-fry are
annually hatched. There is good
trout-fishing in the upper lakes of
this district. Beyond is
BsegeQord, the stat. for Sogndal
(about 5 kil.), where there are Iron,
nmies.
Unsheltered again, the str. is
steered along a wUd, rocky coast, and,
after passing Yibberodden Light, ter-
minates this section of her voyage at
Egersnnd^ (141 kil.) Pop. 2960.
Brit. Vice-Consul. The town is well
situated on the mainland, opposite the
large Egerd island, which has a light-
house at its S.W. extremity. A con-
siderable trade in mackerel, salmon,
and lobsters is carried on here, and
much shipping belongs to the port.
The town is famed for its potteries,
and more especially for its fine Stone-
ware workSy which are worth in-
specting. Many of the lakes and
rivers in the district afford good
trout -fishing. Salmon and trout
abound in the Ogne river (18 kil.) The
Hoar and the Sogndal rivers (39 and
32 kil.) are good salmon streams, de-
pendent, like other rivers on the
Jsederen coast, to a great extent upon
the condition of the water. The
TengSy only 3 kil. from the town, is
also a good salmon river, and part of
it can be fished by permission of the
lessee. (Inquire locally.) A sahnon-
ladder has been put up near the
Fotlandsfos on this river.
Tourists who do not fear the rock-
ing to which strs. are generally
exposed on the low, open Jcederen
coast, can make the voyage to Sta-
vanger in 5 to 7 hrs. from Egersund.
This is essentially a sea voyage, with
little to gratify the eye until the
Boute 19. — Egersund to Siavanger.
d9
mouth of the Hafsfjord is reached.
Here Harald Haarf ager was victorious
over the last of his opx>onents in
872. Entering the HoMstemsfjord^
with HviUngsd Light to the 1., and
rounding TwngencBSy the str. enters a
bay of the great, much - ramified
Bukhenfjordy in which lies (237 Ml.
by sea from Christiansand) the city of
STAYANOEB. (See next Boute,
by rail from Egersund.)
ROUTE 19.
EOEBSUMD TO STAVANQEB.
(By raU.)
[Distance, 76 kil. ; time : mail, 2 J hrs. ;
fare, 2iid cl., 4 kr. The departure of the
trains at either end is timed in such a
manner as to admit of the mail str. being
rejoined after it has passed the exposed
Jeederen coast.]
The principal stats, on this line
are —
Helvig (9 kil.) On leaving Eger-
sund, the river of that name is
crossed, and later the Tengs-elVy
which flows out of a lake to the rt.
The Nysund is then skirted amidst
wild and rocky scenery. Beyond
Helvig is another lake to the rt.,
and, tnth the open sea in view, the
Ogne river is passed. Ogne ch. and
farm will be seen to the rt. before
reaching
Ogne (17 kil.) Sand-dunes pre-
vail, after which the Jeederen coast
will be seen strewn with boulders.
Many Norwegian and other artists
are found here, at every season,
studying marine views, &c.
Yigrestad (26 kil.) The open sea
is now at a greater distance. On the
coast will be seen the hamlet of Haar^
where seaweed is extensively burned
and kelp prepared for the manufac-
ture of iodme. Trout-fishing to be
had.
Yarhaug (32 kil.) Scenery still
more desolate. Leaving NoerbQ ch.
to the 1., travellers will have time for
refreshment at
NsBrbd (38 kil.) Buff, The large
farm is called Nceshevm. Wide
stretches of bog-land, with fields
interspersed. Several small streams
are crossed before reaching
Thime (46 kil.), a small hamlet,
with a good inn. Trout-fishing
good. The country gains in fertility
of aspect, and, after running along
the shore of the Froilandsvandy the
train draws up again at
Klep (51 kil.) The line now runs
considerably inland. The Figgen river
{troutj and sahndn late in summer)
will be crossed before reaching
HdUand (57 kil.) Thence the line
follows the Oanddal (with some fine
farms), and at the outflow of the
Oa/nd river into the Ocmdefjordy the
train stops at the prettily situated
harbour of
SandnsBB (62 kil.) A Woollen mill
is close by, and several large Brick
and Tile works on the opposite side
of the fjord, which is skirted to
Sinna (69 kil.) Pretty view over
the fjord. After a momentary stop-
page at
Hillevaag (74 kil.), the train runs
through the suburbs and into the
stat. of
STAYANGEB. ^ Brit, and Amer.
Vice-CanstUs. Pop. 25,000. Very
prettily situated on a branch of the
Bukkenfjord. This now important
commercial city is supposed to have
been founded in the 11th or 12th
cent. Its real history and progress
began in the middle ages, after a
bishopric had been established in con-
nection with its fine cath. Fires in
1633 and 1684 devastated Stavanger
and gave Christian V. the oppor-
tunity of withdrawing its privileges
h2
100
Route IQ.'^Egersund to Stavanger,
in favour of Christiansand, to whioh
he also removed the episcopal seat.
It began, however, to rise again
in 1B(%, when the spring herrings
returned to this part of the coast,
and especially after the pacifica-
tion of Europe. Next to CShristiania
and Arendal, Stavanger owns the
largest amount of shipping tonnage.
In 1889, 50 strs. (16,790 tons) and
469 sailing vessels (88,353 tons)
hailed from the port. The value of
its imports in 1890 was 865,5002.,
and that of its exports 123,000Z. (one
half fish). As a port of call for
strs. from and to Newcastle, Hull,
&0.J on account of its easy commu-
nication, by sea and land, with the
Hardanger fjord, Stavanger is be-
coming more and more a starting-
point for tourists, of whom 3500
(and 19 yachts) visited the place in
1890.
The city stands on the N.E.
side of a large penin., and com-
mands beautiful views over the Sta-
vanger fjord and the mtn. -ranges
to the E. and the N.E. A small
island acts as a breakwater, and gives
perfect security, to the 2 harbours
of Vaagen and Ostervaagent sep£u:ated
from each other by the HoVmen
penin.
Passengers have generally ample
time for a visit to the
Cathedral. 1 With the exception
of that of Trondhjem, this is the
most perfect specimen of the archi-
tecture of the middle ages in Nor-
way, and is very interesting. The
original edifice (founded about the
12th cent.) was almost completely
burned down in 1272, after which its
high tower and main porch were not
re-erected. The older portions that
have survived have considerable
affinity with the architectural fea-
tures of Winchester Cath. This is
explained by the fact that the builder
was Reginald (Beinhaldr), a Benedic-
tine monk of Winchester, who died
(the first Bishop of Stavanger) in
1135. He obtained from Sigurd
^ Keys at the Fire-brigade stat., ]. of main
entrance.
Jorsalafarer the means of sending to
England for workmen and complet-
ing the building. The king had put
away his wife, Malmfrid, in 1128, in
order to marry a younger woman.
The bishop protested and refused to
sanction the marriage, but finally
consented to perform the service
after the king had marched to Sta-
vanger and paid, as a fine, a suffi-
cient amount to defray the expenses
of finishing the cath. It was dedi-
cated to St. Swithin, bishop of Win-
chester, and an arm of the saint,
whose body was then preserved at
Winchester, was sent as the first and
chief holy relic of the Stavanger
sanctuary. About 1540 the cath.
was plundered of its treasures and
nearly deserted. It was " thoroughly
whitewashed " about the middle of
the 18th cent., and finally restored
in 1867.
The total length of the present
edifice, whioh is of a greyish stone,
with pillars, lintels, <&c., of soap
stone, is about 197 ft., 66 of which
are occupied by the chancel, which
is Gothic, of the Early English cha-
racter, while the nave, built before
the fire of 1272, is Norman, like the
porches on the S. and N. sides. The
arches between the pillars have zig-
zag ornamentations, in some parts
replaced by old Norwegian dragon-
tracery. In the S. aisle is a fine old
oak pulpit, carved by Lawrence
Smith, a Scot, and presented by a
lady who was buried in the cath.
in 1678. The windows in the chan-
cel are filled with stained glass, the
4 Evangelists being represented
in the centre. A stone staircase
leads from the chancel to an octan-
gular tower in the corner b64ween
the nave and the chancel. Einar
Eongsmaag sought refuge here in
1205 from the Baglert or Episcopal
faction, but was murdered in the
churchyard. On the N. and S. sides
of the chancel, at its E. end, are
2 contemporaneous towers, with 2
vestries, in which are hung some
monumental tablets of the 16th and
17th cent., and a portrait on panel
Route 19. — Stavanger,
101
of the third bishop after the Befor-
mation (1571-1604).
Alongside of the cath. is the
KoTigsgaard, in which the Bom.
Gath. bishops resided, and now
the "Latin School." The cellars
alone are ancient. On its N.E. side
is extsbnt the private Chapel of those
bishops, which must have been built
at the same period as the chancel of
the cath. Used now as a library, it is
entered from the school.
Conflagrations and consequent re-
constructions have left few other
traces of ancient architecture.
The Museum, established in 1877,
is of some interest. The large col-
lection of fishes includes a rare and
remarkable specimen (in spirits) of the
Sild Kong^ or King of the Herrings
(Oym/netrus glesne or grUli)^ about 9
ft. long, with a curious cord attached
to the ventral fin and terminating in
an integument shaped like a thong.
Traditionally the cord was used for
the allurement of fish on which the
king fed. The royal title is assumed
to have been gained by the spikes
which crown the head. The speci-
men was found without its tail in 1884,
at SkudensBs, on Eartnoen island.
Strangely, the same defect existed in
the only specimen of the same fish
that has been found on the English
coast, at Newlyn, Cornwall. In the
Museimi at Penzance is a rough
painting of the Ceil Conin,^ that was
washed ashore there in 1788, minus
its tail, which has been depicted from
imagination, since its shape is very
different from that of the preserved
tail of a similar fish shown at the
Museum in Bergen. The length of
the Cornish specimen was 8^ ft.
without the tail, its width 10^ in.,
thickness 2 J in., and weight 40 lbs.
B is depicted as having 2 cords
issuing from the foremost fin. The
attention of visitors will also be drawn
to a specimen of the curious " Trunk-
fish," from the East India Islands.
Among other curiosities may be
mentioned the only known specimen
of a blcLck seal, shot near Stavanger
in 1890 ; 2 joined calves' heads from
Madagascar, with 4 eyes and 2 snouts ;
2 white calves (in a glass case con-
taining a stuffed bison) with 1 head
and 7 legs, of which one hangs use-
lessly ; Norwegian brown bears, glut-
tons, &Q.
In the upper storey is a good col-
lection of stone implements, pike-
heads, ancient swords, Indian and
Chinese objects, coins, unique silver
spoons, &o.
The Market Place, neat which the
Museum stands, is worth seeing in
the morning (especially on Wed.
and Sat.) for the lively traffic
in fish and other produce. A
walk should also be taken to the
pretty Bjergsted Pa/rk, reached by a
road running to the rt. of the gas
w<yrks, in the N. part of the city. For
a fine view of the city and its en-
virons, the fire yfdXah-tower on the
Valbjerg, in the centre of the
town, and the Vaalandspibe (330
ft.), B.W. of the city, should be
ascended. The still higher (460 ft.)
XJllenha/ug, more to the W., affords
a still wider and more beautiful pro-
spect. At its base is a Fish-hatch-
ing establishment.
[Excursions, by road and local strs^ can be
made very enjoyably in many directions.
Places on the Jaederen coast can be visited
by rail for trout-flshing. Assistance and
advice will be given by the local Tourist
Association or at Bennett's Agency.
The drives are —
(1) To Sole, a hamlet on the Jasderen
coast, about 11 kil. S.W., where a ruined Ch. of
the 11th cent, has been converted into an
artist's studio.
(2) To TungenesB and its lighthouse, return-
ing vid Kvcemevig, an oasis in that otherwise
treeless district, past Revem ch., and along
the shore of the Hafsfjord.
(3) To Bevem, thence across the Hafsfjord
to Meling and Tananger. Prom the latter.
Rot island, the southernmost point in Norway
for the gathering of »ea-birds* eggs, is acces-
sible.
Local strs. will convey the excursionist to
one or more of the following places :
(1) Homersand, in Hetland. Thence on
foot or drive through Lutsi and Vaine to
SandnoBs rly. stat., returning in the evening
* Evidently a corruption of the Norwegian by rail to Stavanger.
"Sild Kongen." I (2) The LyseQord, stopping at mie ^nd
J
102
Route 20. — Stava/nger to Bergen.
Fouan^ near which a large *< giant's cauldron *'
is shown. Thence up the fjord (b6 klL long,
but scarcely 2 kil. broad^ to the Lysebunden^
or the head of the fjord, which is one of
the narrowest and wildest gorges of the
Norwegian fjeld masses, with sides rising in
some places to more than 3300 ft. from the
water's edge.
(3) The Eastern and the Western ^orda will
occupy, severally, an entire day, which can
be pleasantly passed on board the str.
(4) On certain days of the week (inquire
locally) a str. runs to ITdstens Kloater, to
which visitors will be attracted by the fine
ruint of an Augustine abbey (13th cent.), of
which the chancel only has preserved a roof,
and is still used for Divine service. The
architecture of the abbey and the materials
used in its ornamentation are the same as
those of the Stavanger cath. It formed a
square, the ch. being in the N. wing, and the
kitchen and refectory in the S. The central
building is now the dwelling-house of the pro-
prietor. Tourists can return to Stavanger
the same evening.
On all the above excursions more or less
good quarters are obtainable, but it is advis-
able to carry a few provisions.]
(For communications with G-reat Britain
and Norwegian coasts and fjords, see time-
tables and following Routes.)
ROUTE 20.
STAVANGER TO BBBQEN, vid
HAUGESUND.
(By Str.)
[Distance, 25 Norweg. naut. m. ; time,
about 10 hrs. ; fare, 10 kr. Mail coasting
strs. daily, and frequent other opportimities
by Norwegian and British steamships.]
On leaving Stavanger, strs. take
a northerly course down the Bukken-
f jord, past Tunge, with Bragen rock
and Eime island to the 1., and the
Fjeldb, with a lighthouse, to the
rt. To the rt. will be seen Master
island and the old Udsten ch, (see
last Route). Steering over the broad
and open Bukkenfjord, the largest
strs. take the channel between
Kajmben and Store Bukken islands.
On the latter is seen the sharply
defined Bukkenfjeld, At the S. end
of Earmoen is SkttdencRSj a small
port. The island is of considerable
size. Vigsnces Copper-works are situ-
ated on it, and it is rich in upright
stones and other monuments of anti-
quity. Utsi/re island, beyond it, is
much frequented for the mackerel-
flshmg afforded in its vicinity. In
one of the two large caverns on it the
pop. found refuge and concealment
on the approach of British war-ships
at the beginning of the present cent.
The str. (in about 2 hrs.) touches
at
Eopervik, another small harbour
on the island, after which it passes
HGieva/rde Light. Avaldsnces ch.
is next sighted. One of 14 royal
chapels in the middle ages, and
subsequently allowed to fall in ruins,
it was entirely rebuilt in 1840.
Alongside is the Virgin Ma/ry^s
Needle, an upright stone about 23 ft.
high. Tradition expects the world to
come to an end when this monolith
falls. Beyond, the Karmsufid nar-
rows, and becomes more smiling. At
a ferry place will be seen to the rt.
5 MonolithSf known as the "Five
Foolish Virgins," one of which, how-
ever, now does duty as a telegraph-
post.
IKarmSen is of some interest to British
travellers. James Bothwell was seized here
as a fugritiye by a Danish ship of war in
Aug. 1567. He was taken with his com-
panions to Bergen, and 4 weeks later to
Denmark, where he died after 10 years' im-
prisonment. He had been sent, in 1660, by
Queen Mary to France for aid; and pro-
ceeding thence to Denmark, he fell in loye
with, and married, Anna Busting, daughter
of Christopher Busting, a- celebrated Nor-
weg^ian partisan. Breaking all vows, he left
his wife in the Netherlands. On his arrival,
however, at Bergen, in 1567, he was recog-
nised by Anna, who had taken up her abode
in that city. Eventnally, he promised to
send her from Scotland 100 dollars a year, but
his capture by the Danish Oovemment in
Norway practically cancelled that arrange
ment,]
Route 21. — Stavanger to Odde,
103
In another hour the str. enters
the well-sheltered harbour of
Haugesund. ^ Pop. 5870. Brit
Vice-Consul. To the N. of the town
are Shaanre ch. and the red granite
Obelisk (56 ft., including the pedes-
tal) erected 1872 to the memory of
Harald Haarfager, on the spot where
the king is supposed to have been
buried. It is surrounded by 31 upright
stones (Fylkestene)t representing the
districts (Fylker) which the king
subjected to his sway. The Storthing
has voted money for the enclosing of
the obelisk with a stone wall. The
tumulus originally erected over the
king's remains has disappeared, but
the large stone that covered his grave
has been preserved.
A good road runs inland from
Haugesund to the Fdresfjord^ the
stats, being: Aksdal (11 kil.); Lid
(13 kil.); SjnrBoike (13 kil.); to
Olen (11 kil.) ; and to Sandeid (9 kil.)
Several pretty lakes (trout) are
passed on the way.
The voyage is continaed, first,
along a short stretch of open sea, in
close proximity to the wild Eyfylke
coast, and then past LynghoJmen,
where King Magnus ^mek was
drowned in 1374. Soon after, the
B&mmelfjordt between the mainland
and B&rmnel island, is entered. British
capital has been employed in work-
ing the gold veins that have been
found on that island. The larger strs.
do not stop at Langevaagy on
Bdmmelen, but proceed to
Mosterhavn, on an island of the
same name, with the most ancient Ch.
in Norway. It was built by Olaf Tryg-
vass5n (995-1000), but its architec-
tural features are of no interest.
The smaller strs. next stop at
Lervig, on the pretty Stord island,
on which the mtns. rise to 2600 ft.,
but the l£u:ger mail-strs. take the
sound between Bdmmelen and Stordd,
or more frequently the channel be-
tween Stordo and TysnesOen, StordS
is a large island at the entrance to the
Hardanger fjords steered for by strs.
from the southward, and it is at Ler-
vig that tourists proceeding to that
fjord from the S. generally change strs.
In the more frequent course taken by
the large strs., Reksteren island wiU
be passed to the rt. and Hofteren to
the 1. before reaching the Bjomefjord,
and subsequently the Korsfjord. To
the rt. of the latter is the Fane-
fjord, with Fane ch., and to the N.
of it the small Bukken island. Coast-
ing along the large island of Sar-
tor, passing Bjorden, and later
Haahmshellen (where Haakon the
(rood was bom, and where he died
in 961), the Ulvikken and the Lyder-
hom come in view. On rounding
Kvan^ert, the N. spur of the Lyder-
horn, the terminus of the voyage is
sighted, and after crossing the Pudde-
fjord and doubling Nordnces passen-
gers are charmed, when there is no
rainfall, with the aspect of
BEBGEK. (For description, see
Bte. 22.)
BOUTE 21.
STAVANGBB TO ODDB (HABDANaEB), vid
BAND (sUIiDAL) AND BdLDAL.
(By str. and road.)
[Sinoe Lakes Suldal and imidal have been
connected by a rood magnificent in execution
as it is beautiful in scenery, this is a favour-
ite Route between Stavanger and Odde, and
vice vertd (in S| days.) It is more especially
attractive when travelling towards the
Hardanger fjord.
Strs. run almost daily from Stavanger
to Sand (Byfylke) in about 5 hrs. (10 Norweg.
nant. m.) ; fare, 4 kr.]
1. STAVANOBB TO SAND.
(By str.)
The direct course to the Sands-
fjord runs between several islands,
104
Route 21. — Stavanger to Odde.
afFordinR a ohanniiig view of the
BjHreimskjcBfttWiih. CfufUanuten^eak
(2742 ft.) to the 1. of it. The first
stoppage is made (in 1 hr.) at
Tfl^d, on which, in the 14th and
16th cent., existed one of the best-
known manorial estates in Norway.
Thence (in ^hr.) the str. touches at
Belf tad, on FmnJQ island, prettily
situated. The shore of the island is
skirted up to Judeberget, after which
several islands will be kept to ihe rt.
Behind HdUnO island wiU be seen to
rise to a great height that of Bandd.
After sighting the mouth of the
JdaenfjordtWiih Om&o island to thert.,
the str. crosses over to the SjemerO
group of islands, in the background
of which rises the Heimakono mtn.,
and (in f hr.) stops a few minutes
at
Kirkeben. Winding through the
pretty, well-wooded islands of the
group (of which 7 are inhabited),
and then crossing the Ncerstrands-
fjordj the str. touches again (in f hr.)
at
Kaerstrand, at the entrance to the
Vmdefjordf a favourite summer re-
sort. A direct E. course brings the
str. (in ^ hr.) to
Jelse, at i^e mouth of the Sands-
fjord (enclosed by wooded hills of no
great neight), which is then entered,
the first stopping-place in it being
Marvik, a pretty place. The
scenery becomes more and more
pleasant with a mountainous back-
ground. The fjelds around Saude
(at the head of this fjord, worth
visiting by the str., which proceeds
to it) are sometimes partially covered
with snow, even early in Aug. In
about 1^ hr. from Jelse the voyage
terminates at
Sand, if a charming little place
(the capital of Byfylke) on the shore
of a bay, into which the Laagen
(Logen) river falls. (For river of same
name, see Bte. 4.) Travellers gener-
ally sleep here when coming from
Odde.
[After calling at Sand the str. sometimes
runs into the Hyl^ord and calls bX, Hylen
(24 kil.), where travellers can leave the str.
and walk to ▼ftMTO (& ^1*) through the
exceedingly wild Hylskaret ravine, from the
highest part of which is a splendid view of
the Suldal lake. At Vaage (good quarters)
the traveller may take the small str. that
caUs there on its way to Nces."]
2. SAND TO M£S.
(By road and str.)
Engaging a carriole, or some other
conveyance (at 15 d. per kil., the
remaining stats, being at 11 o.),
the traveller will drive to
Osen ^ (19 kil. ; 2 J hrs.) The road
from Sand is very good and slightly
hilly. At about 8 kil. from Sand the
valley narrows to a ravine through
which the Laagen rushes (with some
faUs). Some pretty fishing-boxes
belonging to British anglers will be
passed (at Scmdy SkotifoSj and Sule-
dalen ch,)j the saXmon-fishing in the
river and at its mouth being rented by
them. Beyond the Skotif os the road
crosses the river to its level rt. bank.
To the 1. wiU soon be seen Suldalen
ch, and Mehus posting-stat. (fast)\
after which, in less than an hour, the
traveller arrives at Osen, at the
point where the Laagen issues from
the SuldaTs-va/ndf or lake. Straa-
bekoUeny a curious pyramidal rook,
rises opposite Osen.
After passing the night here, a str.
(almost daily) takes the traveller up
the lake to NceSy a trip of about 2 hrs.
At a distance of about 5 kil. from
Osen the str. passes through a grand
Chasm, known as the SvMaXsporty
with steep cli£Fs (300 ft.) on each
side, appearing as if they touched
each other. The first stopping-place
is Evildal, where the lake is widest ;
but, narrowing again, it has steep
mtn.-sides to the rt. and 1., while in the
background to the N. will be seen
towering the snow-capped Mcelen,
The str. stops next at
Vaage, from which the head of the
Hylsfjord can be reached by a short
road. This is approximately the
centre of the lake. Beyond, the str.
stops at
HanurebS, where a small river rushes
Route 22. — Oreat Britain to Bergen.
106
down in cascades. There is a mtn.-
path hence to Breikvam in Saude.
From the farms on the E. side a track
leads to Yatndal, one of the upper-
most valleys in SsBtersdal (40 kil.)
Travellers leave the str. (unless pro-
ceeding to Boald Kvanif and thence
by difficult paths to HaukeU sceter
(13 hrs.), or to Breive in Scetersdal
(12 hrs.)
KsBB^ (NsBsflaten), on the 8ul-
dalsvand. This is a cosy little place,
with a Ch.j and surrounded by im-
posing mtns. and foaming streams.
3. NiES TO BOLDAL.
(By road.)
The splendid chatcssie (pay for 29
kil. to Qrytting in Boldal) now avail-
able through Bratlandsdalf celebrated
for its impressive grandeur, rises
gently from Nsbs by the side of a
rushing torrent that forces its way,
from pool to pool, through narrow
rocky chasms. It passes at one point
through a tunnel, and at another
under an overhanging rock. Beyond,
the valley widens and becomes less
interesting. After passing dvrebo and
ThomeBB (5^ kil.) farms, the road
crosses to the 1. bank of the Brat-
lands-elVf which rises in the Boldals-
vand. Opposite the farm of Brat-
land (on a slope to the rt.), the old
Bridge should be looked at. A water-
fall descends from a considerable
height on the 1. Four more farms
(on the slopes of the Kaalaas)
and a narrow ravine will next be
passed before regaining the rt. bank
of the foaming river by means of
Hcegerlands-bro (bridge). The rock
formations are here very curious. The
shore of the narrow Lone-vand
(4 kil. long) is then reached and
Lone farm passed, a bridge of the
same name crossed, in charming
scenery (with the small Hundefos to
the 1.), at the outlet of the BdldaU-
vand, and the shore of the latter
beautiful lake skirted to the charm-
ingly situated Hotel at
Boldal. ^ The road thence to Odde
(54 kil.) is continued (after a night's
rest) in accordance with the directions
given in Bte. 5.
BOUTE 22.
GREAT BBITAIN TO BEBQEM.
(By sea.)
[For oommunications from ports in Eng-
land and Scotland, see " Access to Norway "
in the Introduction ; and, for days of sailing,
adyertiaements in Bradshaw and local
time-tables. The intercomrae with Norway
is increasing so rapidly that any special in-
dications as to the means of reaching Bergen
from the United Kingdom would become
obsolete year by year. Assuming that, as
regards the bulk of British tourists bound
for the W. coast of Norway, they will make
use of the exceUent Wilson Line from Hull
or London, or of the strs. of yachting com-
panies (Norwegian or British), the following
short description of the easy and generally
pleasant sea-voyage is given for their edifica-
tion while on board ship.]
At about 80 m. from the Hummer,
the str. bound for Bergen (generally
vid Stavanger) passes the N.W. edge
of the Dogger Bank, in the vicinity
of which the fishing-fleets from Hull
and Grimsby may be seen, especially
during the early summer months, fol-
lowing their occupation of trawling
in a depth of 13 to 18 fms. On a
bright day their tanned sails afford
a very picturesque sight. After pass-
ing over the Dogger (20 Eng. naut.
m.), and a run of about 16 hrs. (230
m.), the Norwegian coast is sighted.
About 3 hrs. later the Hvidmgsd
Lighthcmse, the leading light at
the entrance of the Skudences and
Bukken fjords, is passed and a
Norwegian pilot embarked. Sta-
vanger (Bte. 19) is reached ftn how
106
Route 22.' -Great Britain to Bergen.
later, after a total run of 413 Eng.
naut. m., in 28 hrs., the distance
thence to Bergen by the channel for
large strs. (see Bte. 20) being 100 m.
more. The entire voyage is made in
36-38 hrs.
From London (36 hrs. to Sta-
vanger), the strs. have an interesting
run down the Thames, through the
Swin Channel, passing Harwich,
Orfordness, and, the Suffolk coast.
At about 225 m. from London the
S. edge of the Dogger Bank is
reached, where fishing craft ply their
occupation in large numbers almost
throughout the year, principally by
trawling. In the autumn, fleets of
herring-boats from Lowestoft, Yar-
mouth, (fee, will be seen drift-fishing.
The distance across the Dogger Bank
in this direction is about 80 m., with
a depth of 12 to 18 fms. After leav-
ing it, a run of 170 m. brings in sight
the Norwegian coast, and Stavanger
and Bergen are reached as described
above in the voyage from Hull.
From Scotland the course to Sta-
vanger is 323 Eng. naut. m. from
May Island at the mouth of the
Firth of Forth, Leith being 25 m.
higher up. About 80 m. from the
Forth a patch called the Forties is
crossed for a distance of about 60 m.
Between Orangemouth and Stavanger
the distance is 364 m., and that from
Aberdeen to the same port only 308
m. The depth of water across the
North Sea on the route of the Scottish
strs. varies from 30 to 50 fms., until
within 50 m. of the Norwegian coast,
when it suddenly deepens to 100 and
150 fms.
BEBGEK. « Lat. 60'>24' N. ; long.
5°17' E. Pop. 53,686. Brit, and
Amer. Vice-ConsiUatea.
History. — ^The city, now the second in
population and commercial imxMrtance in
Norway, was founded between 1070 and 1075
by King Olaf Kyrre, and was originally
called BjGrgvin. Within a cent, later, in
consequence of the advantageous position of
its harbour, it was yiaited bv a great number
of English, German, and other traders. The
English and the Scots were probably the
first to resort to Bergfen, where the early
Norwegian kings frequently resided. Haakon
Haakonson, who died 1217, made with Engr-
land a treaty of commerce, remarkable as
having been the first compact of the kind
enter^ into by England. The trade thus
established gradually fell off under German
opposition until, in 1435, the English traders
were driven from Bergen by their competi-
tors, who, in the middle of the 14th cent.,
had already established in it a FaeLory^
which for 2 cents, monopolised the trade
of Northern and Western Norway. The (Ger-
mans formed a Quild (with St. Catherine and
St. Dorothea as patrons), which already in
1357 was a component part of the great
Ilanseatic League. Towards the close of that
cent, the city and its native inhabitants were
harassed and plundered by fieets of German
pirates. These depredations were continued
until the year 1429, and resulted in the
Hanseatic Factory dominating the entire
city and the northern waters of Norway.
In 1455 those all-powerful traders put to
death the governor whom the king had ap<
pointed, the Bishop of Bergen, and many
other notable persons, and burned down
the ch. and monastery of Munkelly, on
Nordnees point. In the 16th cent, the Nor-
wegian citizens began to resist the Grerman
supremacy, and after the power of the Han-
seatic League had been broken (1633-1536),
native burgesses established themselves at
Bergen, as wedl as in other Norwegian towns.
The Factory maintained, however, its posi-
tion (as a separate community) until the
dissolution of the League in 1630. Gradu-
ally its warehouses and other property fell
into the hands of the Norwegian merchants,
and the last German house was sold to a
Norwegian citizen in 1764.
Eeverting to the political history of Ber-
gen, it may be mentioned that in 1135, Mag-
nus Sigurdson was taken prisoner at Bergen,
and his eyes put out, by Harald Gille, one of
the competitors for his throne, and who was
Iiimself put to death in the same place, 1136.
In 1164 Magnus ErlingsSn was crowned here
(the first ceremony of the kind in Norway)
by Archbishop Eystein, and in the follow-
ing cent, both King Haakon and his son
Magnus Lagaboter were successively en-
throned in the old city. In the 12th and 13th
cents, the city played an important part in
the internal dissensions of the country, and
was frequently the scene of sanguinary en-
counters.
In 1665 the Earl of Sandwich pursued into
the harbour of Bergen, with 14 war-ships, a
Dutch fleet of 60 East Indiamen, commanded
by Commodore Van Bitter, which sought
efficient refuge under the guns of BergeDhus
Castle. Although the English minister at
Copenhagen (Gilbert Talbot) succeeded in
obtidnlng permission to seize the Dutch
ships, the Danish commandant of the castle
was compelled, in the absence of other orders,
to protect them, when the English admiral
threatened an immediate attack. The earl
and Admiral Tiddiman, his second in com-
mand, were thereupon, by the combing
efforts of the Dutch fleet and the Danish
garrison, compelled to retire, Severfil of the
Route 22. — Bergen,
107
sh.ots fired by the English squadron are
still visible on the walls of the Bosenkrans
To-wer and other buildings in the city.
Trade and Shipping. — The com-
mercial importance of Bergen may be
judged &om the fact that in 1890 its
imports were valued at 2,281,000Z.,
and its exports at l,204,0O0Z., of which
85 per cent, was represented by fish
and fishery prodticts. In regard to
shipping, the city comes after Chris-
tiania, Arendal, and Stavanger in the
tonnage locally owned. In 1890 this
amounted to 103,936 tons, of which
77,809 was steam tonnage(159 vessels) ,
and 26,127 that of 191 sailing-ships.
The shipbmlding yards and engine
factories^ in which strs. of large size
are constructed, are the most con-
siderable in Norway.
Topography. — The principal part
of the city lies between the Vaag, or
harbour for merchant ships, at the
head of the By fjord and the Pndde-
f jord, in which anchorage is given to
yachts. The isthmus thus formed
has a high ridge, crowned by the
Port of Frederiksberg, erected about
1665, but now used as a fire look-out
station. About half-way between the
fort and the northernmost point
of the penin. (Nordmces) is the Ab-
tronom. Observatory (open almost
every evening). Bergenhns Castle,
which will be seen immediately to the
1. on entering the harbour, is intended
for the defence of the latter. It
consists of 3 bastions and a ravelin
towards the town, and of 3 bastions
and 2 batteries to command the ap-
proach from the sea. At the back of
it will be seen, among some trees, an
old wall — all that is left of the original
fastness raised by King Sverre, at the
end of the 12th cent., for defence
against the Bagler, or Episcopal fac-
tion, and which to this day gives the
name of Sverresborg to the small
height on which the Uttle park of the
same name is planted. Pretty views
are obtained here of the harbour on one
side and the Sandmken quarter of the
city on the other. Almost contiguous
to the castle are the Bosenkrans Tower
8^Qd libe Eongehall, which will be
described later. The steep mtns. in
the background are the Damsgaards-
fjelds (with the Lyderhom, 1300 ft.)
to the S.W., LGvstaken (1660 ft.) to
the ^,,Aal/rehen (2140 ft.) totheS.E.,
and the FliUfjeU (984 ft.) to the N.E.,
which, together with the Blaamanden,
Sandvik, and Askd fjelds, are sup-
posed to have given the name of
BjHrgvin, or " the Pasture among the
Mtns.," from which " Bergen " has
been derived.
The city is supposed to derive
from the same mtn. also a humidity
of climate exceptional on the W.
coast, or in fact in any other part of
Norway, the average annual rainfall
(on about 200 wet days) being 72 in.,
while at Ghristiania it is only 26 in.
Umbrellas and waterproofs oxe there-
fore very generally required. Proxi-
mity to the sea renders the climate
at the same time very mild, the mean
annual temperature being 45° F.,
and that of July 58° (against 41°
and 62° at Ghristiania). In winter
the cold is usually slight and of short
duration, the thermometer rarely fall-
ing below 16° or 20° F. These con-
ditions render the vegetation in the
vicinity of the city very rich.
Frequently devastated by fire, Ber-
gen will appear, on landing, to have
a modem aspect, but there are never-
theless more traces of antiquity and
nationality in it than in any other
Norwegian town. It bears almost
the same relation to Ghristiania and
Trondhjem as Moscow does to St.
Petersburg, with the great advantage
of a pop. that has mixed (mostly
German) blood in its veins, and there-
fore less racially stereotyped. The
" Bergenser " is acknowledged to
be the most cultivated, energetic,
vivacious, and enterprising repre-
sentative of the Norwegian people.
Except to the S. of the harbour, where
the city has been rebuilt since the
last great fire in 1866, many pictu-
resque wooden, whitewashed houses,
with red tiles, will still be found.
The wide, open spaces, shown on the
plan of the city as ** Almenningen,"
were designed to oppose the spreacl
108
Route 22. — Or eat Britain to Bergen,
of conflagrations. They afford good
views. The wide Market place, sur-
rounded as it is by handsome buildings
and shops, among which BenneWs
Tourist office is conspicuous, appears
too vast for the place, but it did good
service in 1855 by arresting further
conflagration. At the top of it is a
StattAB (hjBorch) to TP. F. K. ChrisUe,
a Norwegian of British lineage, who
was president of the first Extra-
ordinary Storthing, which, in 1814,
drew up the Norwegian Cionstitution
and concluded the union with Sweden.
In the *< Vaagsalmenning," con-
nected with the Market place, stands
a Statue by Bdrfesson (erected 1844),
to Ludvig Holbergt titxe dramatist, who
was bom at Bergen in 1684. Con-
tiguous are the Town-Hall, the Post-
Office, the Branoh Bank of Norway,
and other Banks, while in the Vetter-
slef square is the handsome Baaaar,
or covered market, erected 1877, con-
taining a small but interesting Fish-
eries Museum (specimens of nets,
fishing-tackle, &c.), and the PubUc
Library, of about 60,000 vol&
At the N.E. end of the Market
place is one of the great attractions
in Bergen — namely, the TrUmgelent
or quay, on which is held the
I. Fisii Market. This is always
viewed by travellers, especially on
Wed. and Sat., when, between 8 and
10 A.M., fish in great abundance and
variety (a staple article of food) is
brought and sold by fishermen and
fisherwomen, typical in appearance,
and worthy of the pencil or the lens.
In order to view the wholesale
traffic in fish prodmctSy on which the
prosperity of Bergen so greatly de-
pends, a walk must be taken along
the
II. Tyskebrygge 1 ("German
wharf"), lined, on the E. side of the
harbour, by the quaint Hanseatio
Warehouses, rebuilt in their present
form after a great fire in 1702. The
quay is crowded with picturesque
Nordland boats (Jcegts), high-prowed
like the Viking " dragon-ships " of
* BrmMnff is not aUowe4 oq thia qua^.
old, discharging their cargoes of cod,
dried or salted, train-oil, roe, and
other produce of the great Norwegian
fisheries, of which much is shipped
hence to the Mediterranean.
The first (from the Market place) of
the Hanseatic buildings on this quay,
the Finnegaard (mentioned in the
first years of the 15th cent.), has been
restored and converted into a
III. Hanseatio Museum, which is
open daily and shown by the pro-
prietor for a small fee. Visitors
will see here all the details of the
dwelling-rooms and business pre-
mises of the ancient Hanseatic mer-
chant, whose bed, or rather " hunk,**
is curious in arrangement— for the
apprentice or servant, who was never
allowed to enter the dwelling-room of
his master, was required to make
his bed through a small hole with
shutters in the partition-wall. (Con-
sult the descriptions sold on the
premises, and listen to the explana-
tions given by the enterprising pro-
prietor.)
Hence the stroll can be continued
to
IV. Eongehallen (King Haakon*s
Banqueting-HaU), next to the Bosen-
krans Tower. This is in course of
restoration, after having long been
used as a granary. From the lower,
arched storey, narrow stone steps
lead to the Hall, which, with its
groined roof and open hearths, will
give an idea of the internal architec-
tural arrangements of the earliest
part of the ISth cent., when King
Haakon Haakonson caused the build-
ing to be erected. The king's seat is
at the N. end, with a gallery above it,
entered by means of a narrow flight
of steps, which leads also to a parapet,
and thence to the roof, from which a
beautiful view of the city and Fort
Frederiksberg is obtained. A similar
gallery exists at the other end of the
Hall, from the windows of which will
be seen the Commanda/nVs Mousey in
which the king stays when he visits
Bergen. It bears the date of 1727,
but other contiguous buildings were
raised in 1714,
Route 22. — Bergen.
109
Behind the Hall (visible at any
time on application to the " ArseneJ
Vervalter," or keep^) is the
y. Boienkrans (misoalled Valken-
dorf) Tower. VaJkendorf began the
baUding (to overawe the Hanseatio
merchants), but Bosenkrans finished
it. The most ancient part of the
tower is supposed to be 700 years old,
but the arms of Bosenkrans, with the
date of 1565, bear testimony to the
history of its present condition.
Restored some years ago, it is an in-
teresting remnant.
Entering a small hall of solid
masonry, and ascending some steps,
the visitor is shown
BooH 1. Colours of 1st Bergen
regiment, temp. Christian VI. (1699-
1730) ; a Brass mortar (Frederick IV.,
end of 17th cent.) ; Colours of Bergen
regiment, with the arms of the city
(7 mtn. tops), 18th cent. ; and a col-
lection of old Mu>skets,
Boom 2. The "Bosenkrans ''room.
The arms are over the old hearth.
Stands with Eifles and 2 artillery
Colours (18th cent.), embroidered with
gold thread.
Boom 3 above, with " Valkendorf 's
hearth," old Muskets, regimental
colours (18th cent.), and 2 Mortars.
Alongside is
Boom 4. Loopholed room, with
the oldest regimental colours (Fred-
erick IV., 1670-99). The Fireplace
was built by Bosenkrans. In
Boom 5, the uppermost room, are
exhibited old Dani|(h military Water-
cans, From it stone steps (117 from
the basement) lead to the Parapet
at the tower. The guns originally
mounted on it were directed towards
the quarter inhabited by the Hanseatic
merchants. It affords a magnificent
view of Haakon's Hall, the fjord by
which Bergen is approached, the
Sandviken suburb, in which the
Lunatic asylum (consisting of 7 large
buildings) is conspicuous, and the
city generally, with the crowd of
strs. and other vessels moored off
Zi.
A
long the Chubches that
ived conflagration and the
devastation of time (out of 32 which
Bergen once possessed) only a couple
are worthy of some notice, viss. :
1. The Maria (also called the
Tysk, or " German ") Kirke/ to the
rt., after passing, in the direction of
Bergenhus, the warehouses on the
Tyskebrygge. Founded in the 12th
cent., enlarged in the 13th, it came,
in 1408, into the possession of the
Hanseatio League traders, who re-
tained it until 1766. The 2 slender
Tbtoersare modem, and altogether the
exterior of the edifice bears testimony
to recent renovation. Visitors will,
however, admire the S. porch with its
fine Norman arch, elaborate mould-
ings and arcade work. The Boman-
esque t^ave has square piers, with
round arches resting on capitals
ornamented with grotesque figures
of animals. The Chared is Early
Pointed, with full-sized figures in
stone around the walls. Visitors will
notice the Altar-piece of carved wood,
in the form of a large triptych, sur-
mounted by a representation of our
Saviour on the cross. On the back
of this triptych are remains of a
medifidval depiction of scenes from
the life of Christ. Probably of
similar Dutch work of the 16tb
cent, is the elaborately carved Pulpiti
resting on a globe of the world.
Sermons are no longer preached here
in German.
2. The Domkirke (cath.), to the
1. of the S. end of Eong Oscar's
st. In the middle ages a ch.
attached to the Franciscan monas-
tery of St. Olaf, it has frequently
suffered from fire, and was entirely
restored in 1870. The interior, con
sisting of Nave only, with an ex
crescence on the S. side, and lined
with a double row of pews, is pecu
liar. The Gothic windows and the
portal in the lower storey of the
tower are of some little interest, as
may also be the Font, in the form of
an angel, suspended in front of the
altar. When required for use it is
by
* Keys at the Parsonage, 6 Oyregade close
110
Route 22. — Oreat Britain to Bergen,
drawn down and a basin of water
placed in the laurel crown.
In the neighbourhood of the
cath. are 3 large School buildings,
the Lepers* hospital (existent in
1475), and several other public insti-
tutions.
At the S. end of Eong Oscar's st.
is the Stadsport, or old entrance
gate, of the city, a simple archway
built about 1630, and surmounted
by 2 English cannon-balls (1666).
The municipal archives are preserved
in a room within it. Close by is an
Almshouse for Widows, erected 1881 ;
and beyond the gate, in a pretty
quarter called Kalfa/rety many of the
richer citizens reside in handsome
houses. Here is also another, the
largest. Hospital in Norway for
Lepers.
As regards the Eorskirke, or Ch.
of the Holy Cross, in HoUcender gade,
the only interest now attaching to
it is its proximity to the 5 streets
called after the same number of
handicrafts (shoemakers, bakers, &o.)
pursued by the Germans who resided
there in olden days.
YII. Museum and Picture -Gal-
lery :
1. The MtrsEUM. This is a hand-
some building well situated on an
elevation at the W. end of Christie
St.
The vestibule contains 2 carved
ch. portals of about the 16th
cent, and some Bunic monuments.
In the first 3 rooms (1.) of the
lower floor are stone implements,
flints, &G., and objects illustra-
ting the Iron age. The fourth
room holds wood carvings, fonts, &c.,
from chs. of the middle ages. In
the fifth are exhibited, inter alia,
harpoons, and bows with poisoned
arrows for shooting small whales.
Such arrows are still used in the
Skogsvaag district, near Bergen.
Ancient domestic furniture fills the
sixth room. The Dutch marqiieterie
bedstead is a fine specimen of 17th
cent. work. A French wardrobe in-
laid with ivory, and a curious writing
desk (of 17th cent.), are worthy of
notice, as are also the bride's chests
and carved cabinets, &o. The seventh
room contains a collection of old
Norwegian bowls, a case with drink-
ing and powder horns, <ftc., and
tankards that belonged to the old
guilds of Bergei^
A collection of Norwegian Coins
from the 10th cent, is interesting.
The highly instructive Zoological
collections are located in the second
and third storeys. Visitors will
notice the musk ox from the E.
coast of Greenland, the polar bears,
seals, sea lions and sea bears. The
specimens of Norwegian and Arctic
seals are more especially complete.
Of no less interest are the skeletons
of whales ; one of the now raxe blue
whale (the largest of such mamma-
lia) measures 76^ ft. Their maxi-
mum known size is 80 to 90 ft. The
collection of the embryos of whales
in the several stages of development
is very curious. Fishes are well
represented, and the Museum shares
with that at Stavanger the pride of
being able to exhibit a specimen of
the Sild hong (king of the herrings),
but without the cord mentioned in
the description of the rival museum.
Noticeable also is the sword of a
sword-fish, with the 2 planks of a
ship through which it had penetrated.
Small specimens of the blue shark,
extinct on the Norwegian coast, will
also be pointed out.
The collection of Norwegian Birds
is very complete, and contains
several unique specimens of cross
breeds.
In the uppermost floor are cases
with R&ptiles in spirits, branches of
coral fished up near Bergen, shells,
&o. «
The pretty Nygaards Park, com-
manding fine views, spreads out
behind the Museum.
2. The Piotube-Gallbuy of the
Art Union, in Engen sq., contains
chiefly modern works, Norwegian
artists being well represented by
Tidemand, Bodom, and Eckersberg.
Amongst the few pictures by old
masters may be mentioned a portrait
Route 22. — Bergen.
Ill
of " Mary, Princess of England," by
Van Dyck ; " The Entombment," by
T. Mengs. A drawing by Carstens
(1779), representing " The Inhabitants
of Biigen Island (Baltic) seeking to
purchase their liberty from the
Holsteiners," is curious. In connec-
tion with this gaUery is a collection
of pictures belonging to the munici-
pality of Bergen.
VIII. Walks, Drives, &c. — 1.
Walks. — Before visiting the pic-
turesque environs of the city,
travellers usually stroU from the
Market -place up the quaint and
busy Strand gade, in which, as well
as at the Fish-market, men and
women of the rural class will often
be seen in their national dress.
Ardent sightseers will repair quickly
to the Tyskehrygge, St. Mary's Ch.y
and Haakon*s Hall and the Rosen-
krans Tower ; but explorers will as-
cend the Strand st, to its extreme
end at NordnceSy where they will en-
joy a view of the fjord from the small
Park which is being laid out here.
By taking the road to the 1. skirting
the fjord, they will pass the old fort
of Frederiksberg and the Observatory,
and ultimately reach a mound which
is all that is left of the ancient Munk-
eliv Monastery, (For description of
these places, as well as of the Mu-
seumsj &c., see " Topography.") The
Nygaard Park, at the W. end of the
city, is within 20 min. walk. To the
E. of it is the Store (great) Lunge-
gaards-vand (lake), an arm of the
Puddefjord connected (N.) with the
*< small" lake of the same name, and
to the W. of which, off Christies st.,
is the pretty Rofn. Cath» ch. Small
strs. ply on those waters from a point
opposite the Voss rly. stat., at inter-
vals of 16 min., and \ an hr. can well
be spent in viewing the picturesque
Villas that dot the larger lake.
A walk generally taken is that
from the cath., past the St.
Jacob cemetery to the Stadsport, or
city gate. Beyond it (rt.) is the
principal Cemetery, affording pretty
views of the^ills behind tiie lake
above mentioned. At about 2| kil. J
from the gate is the Svartedike
("Black-dike"), a lake enclosed by
bleak rocks, and from which Bergen
is supplied with water. Isdalen, a
picturesque gorge, can be reached in
|- an hr. from it.
Those who enjoy mtn. climbing
can easily ascend any of the hilh
that frown over the city. The pano-
rama from the highest of them in-
cludes not only the fjord and the
country inland, but also a grand
view of the Folgefonn glacier. In
any case visitors who do not care to
toil up the zigzag road that leads to
the large iron vane at the summit of
the Fmjjeld (984 ft.) should walk or
drive half-way up the mtn. by the
beautiful road constructed in recent
years, and popularly known as the
DratJwei,
Dramvei (Dram-road). This ap-
pellation originates from the fact
that its cost was defrayed out of part
of the proceeds of the monopoly for
the sale of spirituous liquors granted
by the city to a company in pur-
suance of the so-called " Gothen-
burg," or local option, system. The
sellers of spirits are servants of the
contractors, and have no pecuniary
interest in the traffic. After payment
of a dividend of 5 per cent, to the
shareholders, the surplus profits are
devoted to municipal, public, and
charitable objects. This system is
very generally adopted in the towns
and rural districts of Norway, and,
in addition to other benefits, confers
on consumers the advantage of being
able to procure good, unadulterated
wines as well as spirits.
Pedestrians reach this road (from
which a magnificent view is ob-
tained) by ascending some steps in
Ovre-gade, at the bottom of the
Market place, and bearing off to the
rt. The descent is by the Kalfaret
(" Calvary ") road, past the Leper
hospital, whence a turn to the rt.
leads back to the city. This walk
can be accomplished in 1 hr.
An easy and pleasant stroll in a W.
direction is to the Snkkerhnsbrygge
(Ni^stet), on the Puddefjord, which is
112
Routu 22. — The Hardanger Fjord.
oroBsed by a Bteam ferry (every 10
min.^ to LaoDevaag pier, whence,
passing the large Mechanical works,
there is a charming walk along the
OfWfdal road to AioOen paper-miU,
under the Lyderhom. The same
trip may be made by walking or
driying from the Nygaard Park, over
the bridge at the inlet to the S.
Lungegaards lake, and thence by
the road running along the Pudde-
f jord, past Damsgaard and a number
of villas, to Laxevaag ch. and pier,
where the ferry can be taken. The
hills in the background are those of
the Damsgaard f jelds.
2. Drives. —The Dram/vei should
be one of the first objects. This will
occupy a couple of hours if, on re-
turning by the Kalfaret road, the
Store Lungegaards vand be skirted,
and the Nygaard Park visited. A
somewhat longer drive (2^ hrs.), and
one of great beauty and interest, is
to Fanix)ft, the property of Mr. Gade
(U.S. Consul), to the grounds of
which the owner has transferred the
ancient Stav-ch. of Fortttn (Sogne-
fjord), and restored it to its original
appearance, which is that of the
quaint ch. at Borgund (see Bte. 8).
This can also be visited by train to
Fjoscmger stat. (Bte. 24) in 15 min.,
the waUc thence occupying only ^ an
hr. The country around' Hop, the
following stat., is very pretty, and
the walk or drive may well be pro-
longed in that direction.
3. A pleasant Excursion can be
made in 1 hr. by str. to Askoen, a
large island among the *' skerries "
(rocks) to the N.W. of Bergen. A
walk of ^ an hr. brings the traveller
to the Udsigt (view), or Dyrleigen,
commanding a magnificent survey of
the sea and coast.
[For eommunications by sir. with fjords to
the N. and 8. of Bergen, and by rail with the
interior of the country, see the Routes that
follow.]
BOUTE 23.
THE HARDANOBR FJORD.
[This great inland sea-lake, with its numer-
ous branches penetrating far into the land,
and presenting so many of the grandest and
most characteristic features of Norwegian
scenery, is a very important and interesting
route to travellers. An entire season might
be occupied in exploring it thoroughly, for
the total waterway available to strs. in
various directions, including the fjords by
which it is approached, is not far short of
480 kU.
The present itinerary must necessarily be
limited to the routes leading to favourite
headquarters, such as Eide, Utne, Ulvik, Eid-
fjoriy Lofthuty and Odde. The great toater-
faXU, glaciers, &c., will be pointed out in ap-
propriate parts of this Boute.
The accompanying map shows that in
applying the name of " Hardanger " to the
whole of these ramified waters a certain
amount of geographical licence has been
used. Its approaches from Bergen are re-
spectively named the Kors fjord, and the
BJGme fjord (with a long N. branch, the Sam-
nanger fjord). Another seaward opening is
the ScelbG fjord ; and below that, again, the
Bommel fjord. These join in the central body,
named in most maps the Hardanger fjord,
of which the principal S. branches are the
Aalfjord, the MaUrefjord, and the Akre fjord ;
while to the N. the main body receives the
names of HUfjord and Saml^jord. The latter
is divided into Ytre (outer) and Indre
(inner) Samle fjord. Its prolongations are
respectively the Graven, Ulvik, Ose, and Eid
fjords (to the N. and E.) ; while from the E.
it sends down abruptly a long branch called
the S&r fjord, of which the S. extremity is
at Odde.
It is on the shores of this latter fjord
that the true Earing (Hardanger) type of
the pop. (total in the Hardanger fjord
about 14,000) is to be found. They are a
powerfully built, dignified, and self-reliant
people, and are very courteous to strangers
who exhibit the same quality. Compara-
tively few of the men now wear the ancient
national dress, and even the women are
rapidly exchanging their old picturesque
costumes for modwn gowns and head-cover-
ings. Nevertheless at most of the hotels
Route 23. — Bergen to Odde.
118
and stats, the female servants are dressed in
becoming red bodices and gaily trimmed
skirts, the head being covered with a snow-
white linen " skaut " (a kind of cap), when
the luxuriant tresses are not left to fall in
2 plaits half-way down the back.
Ancestral silver ornaments have gradually
been transferred to the dealer, and by him
retailed to travellers and collectors, so that
the shining round brooches, <fcc., worn with
the local, national dress are disappointing to
lovers of the antique. It is the same with
the gorgeous wedding-crowns so frequently
represented in pictures. They are now
mostly replaced by tinsel, or even paper,
imitations, and the traveller is fortunate
when he meets a wedding party in a fjord
boat with a fiddler in the bows and a huge
wooden tankard of strong Hardauger ale in
the stern.
Communications.— Points in the Hard-
anger fjord can be reached by land : Eide
from Bergen by rail and road, and Odde from
Stavanger (Ete. 21) and from Telemarken
(Rte. 5 ) by road. The great bulk of travellers,
however, start for the fjord either from Sta-
vanger or Bergen, by str. (See Rte. 20 for sec-
tion between Stavanger and Lervik (7 hrs.), or
fferSen (9 hrs.), where the Bergen-Hardanger
str. is met.) The fare from Stavanger to
Odde (260 kil.) is 14.10 kr., and from Bergen
to the same place (193 kiL), 10.40 kr.
From Bergen, strs. leave daily for Odde,
the voyage being direct 3 times a week, in
about 13 hrs. It is made in the daytime, to
enable passengers to enjoy the scenery. The
return is generally at night, but until the
end of July the nights are light enough
throughout. The trip to Odde and back to
Bergen can be made in a couple of days,
with some fatigue, and a week suffices lor
visits to the more interesting points and
objects.
Consult time-tables and advertisements
for sailings, especially in regard to the local
strs., of which the arrangements VEury as the
tourist traffic increases.
Hotels.— These wiU be mentioned in the
Index under the names of the places at
which strs. stop. They are often full at the
chief points of interest, and it is therefore
advisable to secure accommodation by tele-
graph.]
I. Bebqen to Odde.
(By the more direct mail strs.)
The route (variable as to stopping-
places) taken by the mail strs. is
generaJly as follows :
On leaving Bergen, the str., after
a short course to W., turns into the
narrow sound between Sa/rtor6 and
the mainland, and proceeds S. to
Bukken, or Bokk (1^ hr.) ; thence
by the Korsfjord^ to
Lepso (1 hr.) After passing that
island, the mouth of the Samnanger
[fforway—vi. 92.J
fjordf in the BjQmefjord, will be
crossed. The former fjord runs N. to
Aadlandy whence there is a good road
to a stat. ontheBergen- Vossrly.jwhich
can also be reached by a road (30 kil.)
from Os ch.j on the W. side of the
branch fjord, opposite Fttse, (Local
strs. from Bergen ply on this fjord,
the trip there and back occupying
only 1 day.)
The next stopping-place of any
importance is
Oodosund (2 hrs. from Bukken),
a sea-bathing place. Thence througn
the Gk)ddsund Channel, studded
with beautiful -wooded islands. Here
the short-route strs. join those of the
longer route, which touch at Sc&rvold
(N. end of the Bjornefjord) and en-
ter the Loksundt a narrow strait be-
tween the mainland and TysnasG^
the mtns. on which rise to 2295 ft.
All strs. stop in this channel at
Einingevik (1 J hr. from Saervold ;
4 an hr. from Godosund), and pro-
ceed S. to
TeroeiL (Jhr., about 6 by the short-
route strs. foom Bergen) . Pretty view
of the f jeld on which the Folgefonn
lies. Here the main body of the
Hardanger fjord is entered, and is
crossed due S. to
Heroen (i hr.), where the Stavanger
str. is usually met. Some low islands
will be seen to the W.
The course is now along the main-
land, inside Skorpen, a small island,
partly of interesting formation. Look-
ing back over the island, a pretty
view will be had of the TysncBsaata^
on TysnaBS island. The hiUs of the
mainland aore mostly green, but nearly
treeless. A stoppage is made at
XTskedalen (\ hr. from Heroen), at
the mouth of a valley leading S., up
to the f jelds of Sondhordland. Mtn.-
paths lead thence to the head of the
Matre fjord and to Holmedal ch»<,
near its opening in the Skonevigs
fjord. There is also a road (only partly
good) between Uskedal and OlfamcBS
(close to Hobnedal), when the fjord
is crossed in order to gain a carriage-
able road from Skonevig to Hatige-
8tmd, Continuing along the main-
114
Route 23. — The Ea/rdanger Fjord.
land, and passing inside Snilstveit
Island, with the dark rocks of Solfjeld
on the rt., the str. reaches
DimmelBvig (i hr.), at the mouth
of a rich valley, the Omvikedal, where
there is also a mtn.-path (circuitous)
to the head of the Matre fjord.
On leaving this place, a fine
view opens of high mtns., with the
grand Melderskin (5182 ft.) in the
background. The mouths of 2
more valleys {Guddal and Hatteberg-
dal) will be passed before the engines
are stopped at
Sosendal « (^ hr.), at the base of the
high Andersnut, the Malmangemut
(2880 ft.), and the Melderskin mtns.
This is one of the most beautiful
spots in the Hardanger. At the head
of the valley (Hattebergdal) is the
Bingerifos, a fine waterfall at the
foot of the Folgefonn glacier, pre-
senting a rare combination of stem
grandeur and smiling fertility. Sur-
rounded by a park is the baronial
mansion of Hosendal, curious as one
of the few manorial houses left in
Norway, but of not much architec-
tural interest, although founded
about 1678 by Baron Ludvig Rosen-
kranz. In default of heirs the pro-
perty fell to the Danish Crown,
and, after some mutations, was con-
ferred on Baron, subsequently Count,
Rosenkrone, whose arms are carved
over the gateway. The noble title
became extinct in 1837. The collec-
tion of Pictures is good. In the
vicinity of the mansion is Kvinheired
ch., an old Early English Gk)thic
edifice of stone.
[The Melderskin maybe ascended in 6 lirs.
from Rosendal by following a bridle-path up
the Melsdal to the Midtsceter^ and thence by a
steep but not difllcult path past the Myrdais-
vand to the summit, the view from which is
very fine and extensive, taking in the Folge-
fonn, the whole of the fjord to Strandebarm,
and the islands and skerries of the coast,
with a sea-horizon beyond.
There is a good road (6 hrs.) between
Rosendal and Dimmelsvik.']
Leaving Rosendal, the long-route
strs. cross to
Skjelnes (J hr.),on the S. extremity
of Varaldsd (the largest island in the
fjord), while the short route is direct
to Gjermundshavn (1| hr.) on the
mainland, N. of Hatlestrand^ a pretty
spot with a Ch. and smiling farms.
Almost opposite SkjelnsBs, on the
mainland, is iEnaes Ch., at the foot
of the Oygrastol (3100 ft.) and at the
mouth of the Mauranger fjords run-
ning hence inland for about 13 kil.
[1. EZCUBSION TO THE BoNJDHUSBRA.
Two or three times a week the long-route
strs. call at Sundal, at the head of the
Mauianger Fjord, but when a str. is not
available a posting-boat must be engaged
from SkjeluBBs or MmB%. On the way
will be passed (1.) the steep Skodberg
and the fine Fureberg^os, The Bergsfjeld
will be seen rising within the NordpoUen
creek. Hence round a point at which the
Bondhusddl opens, and, with the Nip^jeld to
the rt. and the Husafjeld to the 1., a magnifi-
cent view of the Bondhus Olaeier will be
obtained just before reaching Sundal.* (For
excellent accommodation and guide, see
Index.') Prom Bondhus (5 min. hence), a
beautifully situated farm, with old " rdgttuer "
(huts without chimneys), the guide will lead
up the valley, along the 1. bank of the stream
through it and past rocky remains of ancient
moraines, to the Bondhusvand (in f hr.),
where perched up (1.) will be seen Qarham~
mer, the Soeter of Sundal farm, which can be
reached from Bondhus on horseback. Splen-
did view here of the glacier. The roar of the
Br-uSoi is deafening. The lake (many water-
falls on each side) is crossed in ^ hr. to its
upper end, strewed with huge rocks, and a
path (partly made, but rough) will then be
taken to the foot of the Bondhusbrce (]| hr.
from Sundal). This is one of the outlet
glaciers of the Folgefonn, and pours down a
valley between the Selsnut and the Bonddals-
nut. Its lower end is only 1060 ft. above sea-
level . On a summer night the glacier presents
a fairy scene that cannot be forgotten.
This excursion should be made by all
those who have the time for it.
2. AcBoss THE Folgefonn to Odde.
The Folgefonn is a great glacis-bearing
fjeld. There are several small outfalls of its
ice on the £. side, of which the chief is the
Btier glacier, especially interesting on account
of its recent growth. The snow and ice-covered
area of the Folgefonn and its glaciers is
estimated at 108 Eng. sq. m., while its highest
point is 5512 ft. above sea-leveL Fine views
are obtained on crossing it. The Ringedais-
fos, on the opposite side of the Sbr fjord, is
plainly seen in fine weather. '^
(1) The best track to be ti^en on this journey
is that which leads from Gjerdefarm. Odde
can be reached by it, even by ladies, in 10 hrs.,
, and in favourable weather good pedestrians
Route 23. — Across the Folgefonn to Odde, 1 1 5
have not taken more than 7 hrs. to effect the
crossing. From Sundal (reached as above
described) a boat (| hr.) is taken to Ojerde,
the owner of which is a guide, licensed by the
Norwegian Tonrist Association. Crossing a
bridge, a yalley is ascended along the rt. bank
of the river that rushes down it. The high
Hardangerskar (1.), with the Sundefos below,
will be among the first landmarks. Hence a
long ascent ; later by steps cut in the rock,
towards the jfysevasskar^ahex which the path
is level before descending to the Myse-elv,
crossed by a bridge. Pretty view here of the
fonn, a branch of which descends to the
Mpsevand. After another ascent and then
a descent to the Urabot valleys, and passing
several small lakes, the traveller reaches a
Tourist hut, established 1889. Ascending
again, the first traces of snow will soon be
reached, and later a snow-field (fonn). To
the 1. will be seen, coming down to the Jitkle-
vand, the glacier, which here attains an
altitude of about 5460 ft. The course hence
is towards the Tokeimsnut (peaks), and later
down the Tokeinudal, with the Blaavand to
the rt., from which the descent is more or
less steep to Odde.
In Nov. 1891, Mr. West, special corre-
spondent of Land and Water, crossed
on snotDshoea the Folgefonn by this route,
with 2 guides.
(2) Kie Folgefonn may also be crossed by
climbing the Bondhus glacier (see above),
but, while of greater interest, the journey is
more fatiguing.
On both these tracks siedges, at posting-
rates, are provided. The charge for a guide
from G-jerde is 8 kr. (12 kr. with a horse>,
and from Bondhus 12 kr. (15 kr. with a horse),
and 5 kr. additional if he be required for the
descent.]
From SkjelnaBS the str. generally
proceeds through the Bondesundy
between the level shores of FastUrnds-
strand (1.) and VaraldsiS (rt.), and,
passing the month of the fertile
Mundheimsdaly makes a stoppage at
dierhavn (^ hr. from Skjelnses,
1 hr. from Gjermundshavn). This
stat. is prettily situated on Varaldso,
in the vicinity of copper-pyrites
mines. The HUs fjord is now tra-
versed, and beautiful scenery pre-
sented by its W. shore and by the
opening of the bay of Strandebarmt
close to which is
Bakke (1 hr.) Good quarters.
Beautifully situated in magnificent
scenery.
[Tourists who have time to spare may rest
here, and make an easy stroll along the shore
(3 kil.) to the Strandebarmsbygd to witness the
contrast of its almost Italian luxuriance with
the ice deserts of the Folgefonn just left
behind. The background is formed by tlie
snow-clad TveUe Kvi and Vesholdo mtns.
(4190 ft. and 3520 ft.) The Bergsenden mtn.
(1540 ft.) is easily ascended from Strande^rm
eh., and its summit commands a fine view.
There is a mtn.-road across to the fair valley
of ffacUandsdal, from which the Skogseids-
vand may be ferried to Kalvences, whence the
distance is about 8 kil. to Ekelandtoien, or
Osen, in the Ekelands Qord.]
From Bakke the str. keeps along
the wooded coast, and in | an hr.
stops at
VikingsnaBS. ^ Large Hotel and
numerous small houses, prettily
situated in a wood. Then, crossing
the HUs fjordf it reaches, in another
ihr.,
Jondal (Jondals&ren) (1 hr.) Large
slate quarries in the neighbourhood.
Boat-building pursued rather exten-
sively.
[The JondalsbrsB, one of the Folgefonn
glaciers, is the chief object of interest for
tourists here. From Jondal ch. a good road
leads up the valley to Brattebff farm (12 kil.)
A sceter-Tp&th is then taken from Birkeland.
A guide should be taken from Jondal to
FreidcUstOlen farm, beyond (3 kr. and 2.50 kr.
for horse). The glacier is about 11 kiL due S.
of FkUebe farm, and comes down to the shore
of the Juklevand, below which is the splendid
Sk&rtda^os.}
Leaving Jondal, the str. rounds the
JonancBS promontory, and crosses to
AhsncBS, then turns to the W., pass-
ing Yihor ch.f and on to
KoreimBand * (1 hr.) Telephone to
Bergen, The scenery of this narrow
branch of the fjord is very fine.
The Steinsdal, which runs up from
Noreimsund, is another and very fine
example of the luxuriantly beautiful
valleys that abound on the W. side
of the Hardanger fjord.
[There is a carriole-road here to Steine and
Birkeland farms (6 kil.) About half-way up
the valley is the Ovsihutfos, falling from its
N. side. It is but a small fall (about 98 ft.,
and only 66 ft. perpendicularly), but it is re-
markable from the fact that it is possible to
walk under it. The Eikedaltvand, a lake about
1000 ft. above the sea, may be reached by a
well-defined iceter-'psAla. starting from the
uppermost of the above-mentioned farms, and
continuing N.W. and W. for the first part
through pine-forests (17 kil. ) A little to the
W. of the lake is the Eikedals-fos, reached by
descending a steep goat-track down the face
of the rocks. By making a long ddtour this
i2
116
Route 23. — The Hardanger Fjord.
track may be avoided. The waterfall is yery
toe (nearly 282 ft.) About 6 kil. farther is
TOsse, in the Aaiiland fjord, the upper part of
the Samnanger, at which Bergen strs. oalL*]
Beyond Noreimsund another bay
is entered at
OstensS ^ (^ hr.) Prettily situated,
with a ch. close by. f^om this stat.
may be made an interesting
[ExCURSIOir TO FlKSESUND AND
Hamlboboyami).
The FUuMund, the narrowest branch of
the Hardanger, is not naaally entered by strs.,
but may be visited by boat direct from
OstenaS to Botnen farm, at its northern end.
The course is inside Kvam»d island, and up
the sound to Staare (11 kil.), which can also
be reached by road from the ch. at Ostens5
(about 4 kil. ) The row from Skaare to Botnen
is 6 kiL
Botnen and FkUebd, a short way beyond,
are situated at the lx)ttom of the curious
narrow valley or pass, the FlatebiSgjelet,
through which, by a difficult and almost
perilous path, succeeded by an easy mtn.-
track (with the Kaldenut (4400 ft.) on rt.\ the
Vosse sceter at the N.B. extremity oi the
HanOegrffvand (1908 ft) is reached. The
distance from Botnen is about 11 kil., and
there is no difficulty in keeping the path.
The ,fi*hing ou this lake is good. Sater aeeom-
modation obtainable. Following the river
that flows from the Torflnnvand^ on rt., a path
leads to S^feldalen farm. The road then
turns eastward through pine-forests to Orime-
stad, on the Vangsoand (6 kil. farther), from
which there is a drive of about 9 kil. to
Vostevangen (Bte. 24).
Hamlegr&vand may also be reached direct
by a mtn.-path from the ch. at Ostensb,
leading up to the W. end of the lake, and
continuing to BolstadOren and Evanger, in
Voss,]
From OsteiiBb the fjord is crossed
to RcBrand (J hr.) (The short-route
str. usually passes the mouth of the
Fiksesund, and along the N. shore to
Aalvig.)
Leaving Hasrand, and rounding
SamlencBSf the str. ascends the Indre
Sanden fjord^ with the high Mjolvefos
(1.), to
Vinees (\ hr.) ; then, rounding the
promontory that separates the main
fjord from the Sorf jord, steams (1 hr.)
into
Utne^ (Tcleg.-stat.)y beautifully
' For various other mtn.-paths consult
Prof. Yngvar Nielsen's RHsehaandbog ower
Norge.
situated on the TJtne fjords at a point
from which 4 fjords radiate to the
cardinal points of the compass. The
tourist should rest here, and make
excursions by the road on either side
of the Sor fjord, or row or sail at his
leisure up the branches that run N.
and W. in these and in the SGr fjord
is the grandest scenery of the Har-
danger. The hills around Utne com-
mand magnificent views of the fjord,
the grandest of which is that from
the Oksen fjeld, which rises opposite
Utne to a height of 4120 ft. The
view from this is comparable with
that from the Bighi. It is best
ascended from its S.E. side. Those
who are not equal to the climb (an
excursion of 5 to 6 hrs.) may take
the road (in ^^ hrs.) E. from Utne
across the Hanekamh (3590 ft.), for
a grand survey of the Utne fjord.
Bid fjords and SGr fjord.
From Utne the str. proceeds due
N. up the narrow frowning Qraven
fjord to
Eide*(lhr.) {Teleg.-stat.) (The
short-route str. usually proceeds di-
rect from Aalvig to Eide, which it
reaches in about 10 hrs. from Bergen.)
Prettily situated, this is one of the
great tourist centres, as well as a place
where families from Bergen reside in
summer. Tolerably good trout-fish-
ing in the neighbourhood and up the
river to Vossevangen.
The trout are very fine in the
Espelcmd lake, 8^ hrs. from Eide,
vid Graven ch., whence there is a
climb of nearly 3 hrs.
Communications. — Local strs.
daily to Ulvik and Vik in connection
with mail strs. on the main fjord
routes.
[1. BoAD FBOM Eide to Vossbvangen
(Voss).
Distance, 30 kiL ; carriage and pair, 13 kr.
for 2 persons ; dil. dally. Posting-rate,
1 1 tt. per kil., or 4 kr. for a caftHole^ and 6 kr.
for a StollOferre,
This is a very pretty drive of about
4 hrs., including a halt. Ascending
the lovely valley, along a road that
follows the river, and which is in
Boute 23. — Road from Hide to JJlvik,
117
[some places carried under over-
langing rocks, Qraven ch, (4 kil.) on
le pretty Oravensvcvnd will soon be
cached. A road (to rt.) runs hence
Ulmk (see below). Continuing
[ong the shore of the lake (280 ft.
)p), dotted with farms and orchards,
lew will be obtained of Neseim-
rgen (3762 ft.) on the 1., and, look-
back, the Oksen (see abovej will
}een towering in the direction of
le. Beyond, the Jonsberg and the
mut (with caverns worth visit-
-20 min. from Seim) rise on the
[A pretty posting-stat. will then
;hed (or passed) at
(Ovre Yasenden)^ (8 kil.)
over a level bit of road up a
wooded valley, passing the
\efos on the rt. A long, steep
(at which travellers can
I and cut off comers by ascend-
foot) leads to the SkjervsfoSj
refreshments can be taken and
id scenery enjoyed while the
are being rested. A further
is then made until the last
are passed, and the water-
iched at an elevation of 856 ft.
ihorg (4562 ft.) is seen to
The rest of the journey is
bde, in charming scenery and
the Langskog^ one of the few
lests in the Vestenfjeld dis-
Ihe first view of Voss with its
Lver, on the opposite bank
will be seen the wooden
of the TvUdemoen mili-
ircise-ground, is very en-
TANGEN ^ (Voss) (22 kU. f rom
)ay for 25 kil. and 15 o.
^n reverse direction). (See
for description and rly. to
raoM EiDB TO Ulvik.
kil., but pay for 82 ; time,
ection to Graven ch.j see
)ad, steep road diverges
tr about 6 kil., but a cart
a the whole way, if only
The scenery being very
beautiful, walking is enjoyable, and
almost an hour can be saved by
taking (with a guide) a bridle-path
that passes Kjelland farm and joins
the road from Graven at the Anger-
kleVf a steep pass. Beyond is a pine-
forest, and a height affording a view
of the Graven and Samle fjords, the
Samlenut, &c. At VatncBSt on the
pretty Mja4Jivand (lake), refreshments
are procurable, as weU as trout-fish-
ing. The highest point of the route
(1900 ft.) is then soon reached, and
the descent opens out a landscape of
extraordinary beauty. The On«ro will
be seen rising in the direction of
Ulvik, and, at a great distance, the
Ddgerfos, which falls from it (1500 ft.)
The most prominent of the mtns.
seen on the N. is the Vasfjceren
(5350 ft.) Another steep pass is
surmounted before the first farms
are reached at the head of the valley
that terminates at Ulvikt^ where
the river is crossed by the bridge.]
From Eide the str. returns down
the Qravensfjord^ touches again at
Utney and ascends the S&rfjordy stop-
ping on its W. shore at
Oriinoi^ (Xvaale).
[Pedestrians can reach Utne hence
in 1^ hr., and enjoy the grand view
from the Hanekamh. The fjord can
be crossed in a boat to Kinservik ch.y
at the mouth of the HusdcUetii in
which are many waterfalls, the near-
est being the Tveita and the NyastQl-
fos. The largest of all is 12 kil. up
the valley.]
The Sdrf jord now gains in beauty.
S. of Kvnsefrvik (1.) is a pretty tongue
of land, from wnioh is a succession
of farms to TJUm^oang {Lofthvs),
The str. crosses the fjord, and reaches,
in 1^ hr. Ir/^m Eide,
LofthoS) « near the parish oh. of
Xlllensva/ng, This is another of the
fertile districts of the Hardanger,
with hills rising directly above it,
commanding beautiful views of the
fjord, including the icy wastes of the
Folgefonn a*d of the AgaruU (4684 ft.),
118
Route 23. — The Hardanger Fjord.
and glimpses of the dreg,ry bogland
to the £. The climate is very salu-
brious, especially for weak chests.
An abundance of fruit testifies to its
mildness. This prevails even in
winter (with W. winds), when the
fjord is never frozen. The Conva-
lescent home is much frequented at
ail seasons.
The Ch, is early Gothic, with a fine
portal, but destitute of a tower. Above
the Gothic window, at the end of
the chancel, a bishop is represented,
weeping on one side of his face and
laughing on the other.
From the hill, S. of the ch., falls
perpendicularly (but not in much
volume) the Skrikjafos, formed by
the Skrikjor, More water is pre-
cipitated by the lower, Bjomeboksetf
fos.
The Bmrestol, a prominent crag,
a short distance beyond the oh., is
worth ascending.
[From UllensTang tbere are roads N. to
Kmservik (about 6| Ml.), and S. to Fresvik
(about 14 kll.), both following the fjord, the
second skirting its shore, and both passing
through a beautiful country, inhabited and
cultivated by characteristic specimens of
the Hardanger race. From both Ullensyang
and Einservik there are mtn.-paths oyer the
waste moorland through the Nordmandi
Sheb to the Numedal and the Tinned in Tele-
marken.
Some fine excursions may be made on the
other side of the fjord by crossing from
TJUensyang to Ftiure, whence a road skirts
the fjord northwards to Utne (about 8 kil.),
and southwards to Aga (within easy reach by
boat), a large farm-house, celebrated for its
apple-orchards, and with an old haU lighted
from above. This road follows the shore
southwards to Aapaaldo. Other roads run
W. to Herand fmd AUaker (on the Samlen
fjord), nearly opposite the Tyssedal,}
On leaving Lofthus, travellers will
admire from the deck of the str. the
grand peaks, Haawuti Solnut (4831
ft.), Torsnut (5163 ft.), and many
other fine mtn.-tops with patches of
blue glacier ice between them. The
str. continues S. and stops at
Borve (1^ hr.), a pretty place, from
which the Folgefonn is seen. The
foliage of the trees stands out in
strong contrast with the frowning
mtns. and the glaciers behind. In
another ^ hr. a stoppage is made at
Naa, on the W. side of the fjord.
The slopes of Torsnuten^ covered
with farms up to a height of 1000 ft.,
rise above it to the N.W., with the
glacier looking down on them. About
1 kil. S. of Naa is Bleie farm.
[From Bleie a wild mtiu-road may be
followed to Jondal (8 or 9 hrs.), ascending
first to Reis Sceter (1080 ft.), then northward
to an elevation of 4500 ft., and passing ^Soit-
seklep with Torsnuten to the rt. ; thence
gradually descending with a "W. and south-
ward sweep to i^uKBtf then following the
river to Brattebd, whence there is a road
(12 kil.) to JondaUdren in the Hiis fjord (see
above, "Jondal").]
On crossing the fjord from this
point, other pajHis of the glacier open
out, and the traveller will notice a
waterfall above Naa, which seems to
issue straight out of the mtn. The
next stat. is
Espe (^ hr.) on the E. shore, with
another (see ante) " Hanekamh * ' (3590
ft.) behind it. Farms lying in an
amphitheatre are enlivened by green
trees, and a river falls in cascades
down to the fjord.
Passing next the mouth of the
Tyssa (1.) and Eitrei/m and Tokeim
, farms, tne end of the Hardanger route,
above described, is reached in 1 hr.
at
ODDE,^ finely situated at the
head of the Sorfjord. This is the
chief goal of visitors to the Har-
danger, and no new-comer will be
astonished at the predilection, when
he views both the peaceful beauty
and the solemn grandeur of the
scenery around him.
Moreover, Odde is the starting-
point not only for journeys to Tele-
marken and to Stavanger, through
some of the finest and most interest-
ing parts of Norway, but also a basis
from which many charming excur-
sions, long and short, can be made
with ease and comfort.
The journeys are described, in a
reverse direction, in Btes. 5 and 21.
As regards excursions, their objects
will be to view waterfalls and glaciers,
or to climb mtns.
1. Watbrfalm. — (1) haaitfosy Skar^oi^ and
Espeland^foi, The traveller who has not come
Route 23. — Odde — JBxeursions.
119
from Telemarkenor Stavanger will, even if not
disposed to make the entire stage to Roldal (54
kil.) described in Rte. 5, engage a convey-
ance of some kind (StolkjaBrre for 2, 3.40 kr.) to
the Laatefoi and Skartfos (5 to 7 hrs. there and
back). Pedestrians walk to the Sajidven-
vand, and along its shores, or, taking a boat
to its upx)er end at Sandven farm (7 kiL from
Odde), and perhaps stopping to visit the
Buarbrae (see *' 2.Glaciers"), proceed to HUdal^
where there is a waterfall of the same name.
About 5 kil. beyond are the Laatefos* and the
Skarsfos, and opposite to them the Espelands-
fos (see Bte. 5). Instead of returning by the
same road, the more enterprising will ascend
the mtn. by the side of the Laatef os to Laaie
*arm^ beautifully situated on the lake from
which the waterfall issues. From the farm,
a bridle-road nms to BrcBkkey and thence to a
point on the main road near Hildal.
(2) SkJoeggedal^os and TysteUrengene falls.
This is a highly attractive excursion
(feasible also by ladies in dry. weather) of
9-11 hrs. there and back, with a guide (4-5^
kr.) from Odde, where a luncheon-basket
should be procured. The guide (with assist-
ance when necessary ) takes the traveller in a
boat down the wild E. shore of the Storfjord
to Tyisedal (6 kU. ; 3 hiss.), the landing being
at Tyssedal farm, on theN. bcmk of the Tyssa.
Keeping well along the path on the high N.
bank of the river, a pine-forest and 2
cascades wUl be passed ; and after a some-
what steep ascent over loose stones and
trunks of trees, a hay-bam will be reached at
the foot of the Svelberg (in U hr.) This is
the highest point (about 1800 ft.) attained on
the way. Fine retrospective views of the
fjord and the Folgefonn. The TysaedaUnut
will be seen to the N., and the TveitniU to the
S. Hence, the track more or less descends
(over steps and logs) to the Fladberge (for-
merly a very difficult part of the excursion)
and leads to Skjceggedal farm (2^ hrs. after
landing), where coffee, trout (and even a bed)
are procurable. To the L is the Mogel\fos
(descending from the Mogelinut\ and to the
rt. the Vatienden fos^ formed by the waters of
the Ringedals vand (or Skceggedals vand), a
lake (about 1475 ft. above sea-level) which is
reached in 10 nun. after crossing in a boat
the Vetle vand tarn at the foot of the Yas-
senden. The scenery on this fine sheet of
water (about 6 Ml. E. to W.) is grandly
picturesque. Bare, sombre, grey cliffs rise
abruptly from the edge of the exquisitely
blue water. Embarking again in a boat with
1 or 2 extra rowers (fee 1 kr. for each pas-
senger), the lake is traversed (providing a
high wind has not suddenly risen and ren-
dered waiting necessary) in about IJ hr.
About half-way, the Folgefonn will be seen to
the W., and to the L the fine twin TysteUren-
gene falls, which unite midway on the face of
the rock (600 ft. high). Shortly after, the
^ceggedals fas comes into view, leaping down
nearly in the centre of a semicircle of bare
rock, making a clear bound of more than 530
ft. over the dark wall that terminates the
valley in which the lake lies.
Landing at the E. end of the Ringedals-
vancl, close to the low second fall by which
the waters of the cascade make their way to
the lake, a few hundred yards' scramble over
rough fallen rocks, in the face of a blinding
spray, leads to the huge basin which the
avalanche of water has worn for itself.
Although not so imposing as the Y<3ring-f os,
for the volume of falling water is somewhat
scanty in summer (except after heavy rain),
yet the Skjaeggedal is certainly more grand
and picturesque than any other waterfall in
Europe.
If the strength and time of the tourist
permit, he should not fail, when returning,
to land and to climb to the Tyssestrengene. (\\
or 2 hrs. should be allowed for this ditour.)
This should not, however, be attempted by
ladies unless well accustomed to hard mtn.-
climbing. In many places the ascent is dif-
ficult. It is dangerous to venture on the
mass of ice at the base of the fall, as it is
slightly inclined and very slippery. Beauti-
ful rainbows will be observed.
2. Glacier. —The Buai^hrce, If not combined
with a visit to the waterfalls above mentioned,
this isof itself an interesting excursion of about
5 hrs. Walking or driving to the Sandven-
vand (in which trout can be caught), a small
str. will be taken at Vastun (return ticket
1 kr.) for the splendid Buardaly where the
Jordalmut will be seen on the rt., and the
Eidenut on the 1. The landing is at Jordal
farm, on the N. side of a small stream that
runs down from the glacier, and which is
crossed by a bridge. No guide is necessary,
for the path upwards is well defined. On
reaching Buar farm, from which the glacier
derives its name, the stream is crossed to its
1. side, and a short way beyond is an eleva-
tion formed by large blocks of stone, from
which the glacier is visible in all its gran-
deur. A small Inn will be found at this
point. On the S. side of the valley are the
outbuildings (1060 ft.) of Buar farm, the
fields of which have been endangered by
the rapid rate at wliich the glacier descended.
In 1870 it advanced about 260 ft., and in 1871
about 13 ft. in one week. It has since re-
ceded 100 to 130 ft. The foot of the Buarbras
is now about 1000 ft. above the level of
the fjord, or 700 ft. above the lake.
Divided into 2 arms by a ridge of rocks,
it has an unusually large central moraine.
Visitors can come close up to it and chip off
ice for the cooling of liquid refreshment, but
they are warned against entering the ice-
grotto by which they may be attracted.
By those who are accustomed to such ex-
ercise the rt. side of the glacier can be as-
cended to the great Folg^onn (of which the
Buarbrae is one of the finest outlets). Skirting
the Eidenut and the RGklenut, and passing
the Tokeimsnut, the descent is to Tokeim farm,
near Odde. About 10 hrs. must be allowed
for this ditour {guide about 8 kr. )
With a good guide, the Folgefonn can be
crossed in 10 hrs. (guide 15 kr.) to the Mau-
ranger fjord. (See above, on this route,
"SkjehiaBs.")
3. Mountain Olimbino.— (1) The Sanenut
Thi»* mtn. (about 4000 ft.) can be ascended
120
Route 23. — The Hardanger Fjord.
from Odde in 1 day (there and back) from
Or&nsdal farm, at the edge of the Folgefonn.
The view from the summit is very extensive,
finely displaying the Odde district and the
mtns. beyond.
(2) The MSfnlMkardene (about 3950 ft.), E.
of Odde. This ascent can be accomplished
in 6 hrs. with a guide (5 kr.) Splendid
panorama of the Bingedalsvand, the Sbr-
fjord, and the Folgefonn.
II. Beboen to Ulvik and Vik in the
Habdangeb.
[This section is given separately, as most
of the strs. proceeding to Odde leave the
communication between Eide and the Ulvik
and Eid fjords, to local daily strs. For the
voyage to Eide see above (Section I. of the
present Route).]
From Eide the str. ascends the
Oravensfjordt rounding the Oksen
promontory, and crosses the Eid-
fjord to
BingoexL (1 hr.) Fine view of the
Folgefonn. Steering N. between the
dark rocky walls of the Eidf jord, the
Ulviks fjord (richly wooded slopes)
to the 1. is entered. It is separated
by the low Osen ridge from the Ose-
fjordf which the mail strs. do not
enter. In 3 hrs. from Eide the str.
reaches
Ulvik. « Ulvik is in the midst of
scenery both grand and beautiful,
and is one of the most charming
places in the Hardanger for a tem-
porary sojourn. BrakenceSf with its
ch. and hamlets (a waterfall close
by), constitutes Ulvik. A short walk
along the fjord brings the visitor to
HagestadfBJid then, on theN.E. shore,
to Lekve farm, anciently a royal do-
main.
[ExcuBSiONS.— (1) Va^Jcerent a mtn. 5668
ft. ; feasible in 12-16 hrs., with a guide (5 kr.)
The ascent begins at Lekve farm (reached by
boat) by a good broad path with steps. The
Sceberg is then surmounted, and the JonstOlene
(about 5 kiL) reached. A path on the W.
bank of the stream leads to the SolUsceter^ on
the N. side of the Yasf jser, to which the less
hardy climber should walk on the evening
before the ascent. Trout-flihing in the
Espelandsvand, 7 kil. (1^ hr.) to the N.W.
In 1 hr. thence, the Vcudela sceter is reached.
Splendid views. Then a winding ascent
between Vasf jasren and Vetlefarfjceren (E.)
Thefonn sends out a branch here, a rivulet
tumbling down the glen. If there be snow,
some climbing must be done ; if not, the
stream can be jumped over. Then a steep
ascent. On reaching Savehotnen, a deep
hollow between high mtn.-walls full of snow,
the ascent of the Va^joerfond begins. It is
possible, but difficult, to ascend the mtn. from
its N. side, from Soli-saeter, passing the Sveig
Meter to the Strvelvand. The front of the fjeld
has been ascended by daring climbers, but the
attenipt should never be made by tourists. In
5 hrs. from the Saster, the Top is attained. It
coromands a grand panorama, including all
the inner portions of the Hardanger district,
the fjord, and the islands beyond, the Folge-
fonn, the wild, lake-dotted, boggy, desolate,
and little-trodden region called the ifardangfer
or Stor vidderiy lying between the Sbr fjord,
Telemarken, and NumedaL
Another flue view can be had from the
summit of the Garhaugy on the SoUirvand.
This can be accomplished in about 3 hrs.
Travellers should not ftiil to visit (in
1 day.)
(2) The Osefjord. This magnificent arm of
the great fjord, in some respects the finest of
all, may be reached by rowing down the
Ulvik f]ord, round the headland, and up the
fjord to Ose (14 kil.), or by a path from Br<i-
kences along the shore, past the ch. and
Lekve farm, where the effects of a great land-
slip may be seen, and thence across the
isthmus to 0«c, where fair but rough accom-
modation is afforded. It is, however, more
prudent to bring a supply of provisions.
Within a short walk from the fjord, amidst
great lumps of tumbled rock, are the Kolde-
huller^ deep cavities in which are some
curious x)erpetual glaciers, or ice-i)ools that
remain frozen throughout the summer. Kear
to these is a marsh, which, according to local
accounts, never freezes in winter, and is
swampy in dry weather and dry when the
weather is wet. The gorge between the MpcL-
hSgd and Vasf jeer mtns., leading up to the Om
Miter ^ is well worth a visit. Very wild mtn.-
paths branch off from this (B.) to the Finse
vand^ and through the Finsedal to Aal in
HalUngdal, and (N.) through Kaldevcuaadal,
with Otekavl and Vossekavl on the rt., and
OangdaUkavl on the L ; then across the
OravnhaU (3700 ft.) down to Kaardal and
the Aurland branch of the Sogne fjord.
Either of these is a hard day's journey on
foot. Better toke 2 days, and rest at one
of the Meters. There are other grand mtn.
excursions from Ose to Rundalf Hoi in
Upper ffallingdaly &c. (Consult Prof. Y.
Nielsen's Reitehaandbog and G-uide at Ose.)]
From Ulvik the str. returns to the
rock-walled Eidfjord. On the S. side
of this fjord wiU be seen rising (S.)
the lofty Buwut, on which the sun
never shines in winter. Beyond is
Erdaly a hamlet with saw-mills and
several old moraines and primaeval
beaches. The BtUlenut towers over
it. On the N. side of the fjord rises
the Onen (5150 ft.), the highest peak
of which is, however, not seen from
Route 28. — Bergen to Vhnk wnd Vik.
121
the water. The str. next leaves to
the 1. the Simodal, which receives a
torrent fed by the melting snows of
the great plateaa called the Hardan-
gerjakel, A glimpse of the latter is
obtained. The str. stops, in 2 hrs.
from Eide,at
Vik » (in Eidfjord or CHfjord)^
situated in a small bay on the S.
side of the fjord, at the month of a
small river, of which the BjoriHay the
source of the VSringfos, is a tribu-
tary. The small stone ch. is attri-
buted to the 12th cent., the lancet
windows and portals being apparently
of that age. Behind the altar is a
well-preserved tombstone, on which
is represented Bagnasad (who founded
the ch.) in the act of offering to St.
Peter a model of the edifice. There
is a long Bunic inscription on it. The
principal object in visiting Vik is to
see the
[1. YdBiKG-Fos, one of the finest waterfalls
in Norway, although its sheer fall is only
630 ft. The ezcTirsion occupies 8 to 10 hrs.
Guide from Yik 3.50 kr.
A good carriage-road runs from Yik to the
JBicifjordsvand (a lake 6 kH in length and
245 ft. in depth, with tolerably good trout-
/UMnghi ItXand along its shore to <SEor&0 farm
(1^ hr.), where saddle-horses are procurable.
The girths, especially of side-saddles, should
be carefully inspected. Walking is, however,
genei^y preferred. The ascent begins at
88Bb5. To the rt. of it is the Syelmadal
and to the 1. the MaabUdai. The track, im-
proved by the Tourist Association (which
charges 80 9. per head for its maintenance),
first leads up a hill and then down to the
bank of the IfforMa, which is kept to the 1.
for a short time. (In descending, care must
be taken, on reaching the level moraine in
this vicinity, not to take the broader track
to the 1., but the one to the rt., which runs
straight down to Selbb.) The valley increases
in wildness, its precipitous sides being in
many places 2800 to 2600 ft in height. In
about ^ hr. ham Bdbb the first bridge over
the Bjor'bia is reached, and then the small
Tveito farm. Thence the track leads up the
MaaMkleVf ^eat a waterfall, to MaabS. Here
the river is crossed. When in flood, a branch
of it, the Maabifkvist (in which Jon Saabo,
a well-known guide, was drowned in 1881), is
very dangerous to pass. The Tourist Asso-
ciation track is kept along the 1. bank. It is
more or less hilly, and the glen becomes
grander stilL The Dalberg is passed on the
rt., and steps are cut here to fiurilitate the
ascent. A small Inn supplies at this point
solid and liquid refreshments (ale, milk, and
seltzer water).
A wire suspension-bridge (toU 60 '6.) over
the BjorSia is next crossed. The top of the
VSringfoB is now attained in 10-15 min by
some rudely formed steps, beyond which the
spray arrests further progress. A path has,
however, been made from the suspension-
bridge to FoMe2i, whence another view can be
obtained of the f alL A small Jnn has been
built here by the excellent local guide and
deer-ttdlker. The entire distance from Saebb
is about 10 kil. (2^ hrs.)
The direct and easy return is by way of
the Dalberg (| hr.) Passing over some
flat marshes, MSI farm (accommodation) is
reached by ascending some steps. A splendid
view down over the &11 rewards the climber
who is not subject to giddiness.
Intrepid explorers can, with the help of a
guide, explore the old track to and from the
Y&ringfos and the places lying off it, but
their number wUl be so small that we must
refer them to the more detailed information
given in Nielsen's Rei»eha4mdbog,jBlboyB quoted,
and much used in the foregoing account of
the fos. Hallingdal can be reached by good
pedestrians from the YQringfos, passing 2
nights in rough huts. A guide and provisions
necessary.
2. EXCUBfilON TO THB SiMOOAL AlH) rrS
Waterfalls.— This deserves more attention
than has hitherto been given to it, especially
as the activity of the Tourist Association
develops in the direction of road-making or
improving. If the local str. be not available,
a boat can be engaged from Yik to Simodal,
which is reached in 1 hr., the landing being
^ected at Natutene^ whence a road leads up
to Seed farm, which lies on a moraine. The
valley hence is very 'grand, its base being
strewed with large rock masses that have
tumbled down. As in so many other parts
of Norway, wires will be seen running from
the heights for the sending down of hay.
The road is good up to a bridge, beyond which
is Mehu$ farm, where the vaUey narrows to
a gloomy gorge. Passing over another bridge,
the traveller soon reaches (in an hour from
Simodal) Tveit farm (the highest in the val-
ley). A steep path runs hence to StSlen and
over to Hdl (see « Ydringfos"). The gorge
again contracts more and more. A small /o«
^dll be seen falling into it. Eventually (in
2 hrs* from Simodal) the traveller will see
before him the entire volume of the
Skyklufoi, with a sheer fall of 820 ft. The
quantity of water is scanty in summer. It is
biteresting, but not quite free of danger, to
see it from its foot, which can be reached
from Tveit in 1 hr. There is a magnificent
view of the fjord from the gorge. In another
hour of climbing up the wild valley, and after
passing over some level rock, the traveller
gets to the
RemhUdaltfot, a greater mass of tumbling
water issuing from a lake of the same name,
and of which the upper end is filled with the
glacial terminations of the Hardangerjbkel
snow-field ( 6640 ft. ) It takes 2} hrs. to reach
the lake, T^ch can be rowed over, through
the fioating ice. The BembUdalt-soeter ia on
the other side of it.
The above excursion will occupy 16 or
16 hrs. The hardy pedestrian may as well
122
Route 24. — Bergen to Vosisevangen.
include it in a ronnd-tonr (taking about the
same time) from Yik, to Maabo and Fosseli,
whence the innkeeper (see above) will act as
guide to H'dl and Tveito.
3. The melmadal is a third excursion worth
making by robust walkers. The V^oi^ and
many other fine waterfalls, render the valley
interesting. The Hardanger vidda can be
reached from it, as well as Telemarken (in 2
to 3 days). This imposing valley can be
entered from Hbl (see above) or S8eb45.
StORT. — There is good trottt-fishing in all
the mtn.-lakes in this part of the country,
and sportsmen will find reindeer^ wild-fowl^
<fec. ; but great hardship must be endured in
such pursuits.]
(For return from Vik and other
places in the Hardanger, consult the
above Route in a reverse direction.)
ROUTE 24.
BEBOEN TO VOSBEVANGEN.
(By rail.)
[Distance, 108 kil. ; time, 4 hrs. ; fare, 2nd
cl., 7.70 kr. This line, which passes through
a beautiful and interesting part of the
country, greatly facilitates the communica-
tion of Bergen with the Hardanger on the
one hand and with the Sogne fjord on the
other. Nearly one-tenth of it is tunnelled
through hard rock, and the whole of it is a
triumph of engineering skill.]
On leaving the stat. opposite the
LUle Lungegaardsvand in Bergen,
the train skirts the larger lake of the
same name, which is in reality an
inner branch of the fjord. After
passing through a tunnel nearly 460
ft. long it crosses the stream that
runs out of the lake and in 5 min.
reaches
SoUieimsyikeii (2 kil.), a place
dotted with pretty sunmier resi-
dences. The country increases in
beauty, and the Aalrehen mtns. will
be seen on the 1. and the Lbvstakken
to the rt. The FjHsangervand (rt.)
is next reached, and on its shore
Fjosanger stat. (5 kil.) Here
travellers alight for Fantoft^ where
the old Slav ch, of Fortun is an
object of curiosity (see Rte. 22 :
*' Bergen '*). Leaving a fjord to the rt.
and passing through several cuttings,
the train ascends to
Hop (8 kil.), and thence again
through several cuttings and a
country embellished by small lakes
and green woods, to
Nestun (9 kil.), with a Ch,y and
Qttarries of a kind of marble, close
by ; also small lakes, many villas,
and a view of Aalreken. The Lyse^
kloster (see " Bergen ") caji be reached
hence on foot in 3^ hrs., and Os, in
the ScNnnanger fjord (20 kil.), in
4 hrs. (see "Hardainger'*).
[A branch line will shortly be opened from
Nestun to Os.]
Turning abruptly almost due N.,
the line passes twice over the Nestun
river, skirts the Qrimevand^ where it
intersects the posting-road to Bergen,
and after going through 2 tunnels
issues on the Soilevcmd (rt.), sur-
rounded by bare mtns. Three more
tunnels are entered before the train
pulls up at
Haukeland (18 kil.), at the N. end
of a lake of the same name. This is
the highest point attained on the
line (269 ft.) Hence a short stretch
of rocks covered only with moss, and
a flat marshy level, until Ame ch. is
passed, and a descent made to the
pretty Amevaagy a narrow arm of a
^iSGrfford " that branches out of the
Osterfford. The stat. here is
Arne (25 kil.) The line runs
along the shore of the Amevaag, and
then, making a loop to the E., comes
out to the Sorfjord at
OamsBB (29 kil. ; Buff,), where the
interesting part of this route begins.
The lamps are here lit in the car-
riages. Haus ch, will be seen on the
opposite side of the fjord, to the S.
shore of which the train descends.
•ao^
•«•
Refereac
^fetRvOu
pailroad* .«■
Ckurefu
Churefu
Stations or
Steamer caUing'
phues wtcUrhoied
ikuf Joru jgji
TheHaghts of IT
creJnMdret.
F^'Fjo,^ V.Vi
HARDANGER FJORD,
^Vidk Steazoih^ Steudons.
^
*- '
S to
i ^ ; / 1^ » « iV , ' < • ja
Sloniitr9».
Its —
to
H
F.S.Wellm:
Route 24. — Trengereid J Vossevcmgen.
123
passing through 11 tunnels (the 4
longest 985 to 1265 ft., the rest short),
before reaching the next stat.,
Trengereid^ (89 kil.), on the
Sorfjord. Splendid view, especially
on looking back. The OtUfjM
(3230 ft.), from which is an extensive
panorama, can be ascended hence in
about 4 hrs., there and back, with a
guide. A road runs hence to Aad-
land and the fjord of that name, a
continuation of the Samnanger (see
" Hardanger").
The line increases hence in interest,
and the gigantic labour expended in
its construction excites admiration.
Ten more tunnels (combined length
of more than a mile) have now
to be entered. The long (nearly
f kil.) tunnel at Hane was pierced
through a rock so precipitous that
adits had to be driven into it
from the waterside at 8 different
places; and yet, when the several
borings were joined, the maximum
difference in level was only 10-20
centimetres. Bunning along the
shore of the fjord the line presents
views of great beauty. The mtns. of
Ostero and the Ch. of Brudmk will
be seen on the opposite side of the
fjord, which widens considerably
when the line deflects to the E.
After emerging from a long tunnel a
northerly direction is suddenly taken,
more tunnels passed, and, lastly, a
smaU river crossed, before pulling up
at
Vaksdal (51 kil.) Buff, A pretty
view here of the fjord, and a large
Flowr-mUl on the shore below. There
are 5 tunnels on the next stage,
the fourth piercing the HcRtta mtn.
The fifth is passed a short distance
from
Stanghelle (59 kil.) Here the
Dalevaag is crossed, and the shore
of that creek (bordered by steep mtn.-
sides) followed, partly through tun-
nels. Descending a valley, the train
next stops at
Dale (66 kil.) Some large Factories
here. A short tunnel carries the line
to the bottom of a valley and then to
the BoUtad fjord. A long tunnel is
entered at Bergsenden, and then
another long one piercing the Trold-
konebar. Beyond are tunnels through
the KWftefjeldy the Hyving, and the
Torbjdmstodna, and, at the head of
the fjord, the stat. of
Bolstad (78 kil.), at the mouth of
the Vosse-eh), Strs. here several
times weekly from and to Bergen.
The train ascends a pretty valley,
along the 1. bank of the river, in
which are several rapids, and later
skirts the Evanger-vand, There are
8 tunnels on this section. The bare
Mykletveitre (3755 ft.) is seen rising
to the rt. It can be ascended from
the next stat. in about 3 hrs. At the
outfall of the Vosse river is
Evanger^ (88 kil.), at the head of
the lake of that name. The parish
Ck, and an Inn are opposite the stat.
Hence a slight ascent to a bridge
which carries the train over to the rt.
side of the river. Soon after, the last
(fifty-second) tunnel is passed, and the
pretty Vangsva/nd skirted, the mtns.
in the S. being of considerable height,
and including the long ridge of the
Graaside (4250 ft.) On the Vangs-
vand is
Bulken (99 Ml.), a small stat. The
view is charming, looking E., the
valley widening in that direction, and
in ^ hr. the train reaches its present
terminus at
VossEVANGEir (Voss),» (108 kil.)
In a charming situation on the Yangs-
vand, this place is much frequented,
being well adapted for a prolonged
stay as a centre from which some of
the most pleasant trips in Norway
can be made. The mtn. to the S.
is the Oraaside, already viewed at
Evanger. Close to the principal
hotels is a stone Ch, attributed to the
13th cent. Its altar-piece is ancient,
and on the walls are several memorial
tablets of the 17th and 18th cents.
It possesses a Bible of 1589. Bergen
is largely supplied by Voss with
vegetables, and the well-tilled farms
around are among the largest in
Norway. At about 1 kil. S.W. frpm
the ch., above the posting-road to
Bergen, is a bam, an interesting
124
Route 25. — Vossevangen to Gudvcmgen,
remnant of the old Fitme log-ch.
Norman oarving is extant on the
capitals of the massive oak pillars of
the door and on the arch over it.
Bemains of old buildings exist also
at Lddve, about 3 kil. W. of Vangen^
the parish Ch, of which is the largest
in the Bergen diocese. Anglican ch,
service is held every Sunday, in
summer, in a schoolroom.
For pretty Vi&wa travellers should
ascend to the higher farms on either
side of the lake. Among easy ascents
of mtns. may be mentioned the Ltyne-
horg (4560 ft.) to the N., and the
hom-snaped Hondalsnut (about 5000
ft.) E. of the ch. and near the Kmte-
nosii the highest mtn. (4780 ft.) in
the vicinity. Both these can be
ascended in about 6 hrs., mostly on
horseback, if desired.
A track leads E. from Yobs to the
FlaamsdcUy in Sogn, and another S.
to Botneni in the Fiksesund (Har-
danger).
(The communication by road with
Eide is described in the foregoing
Boute. For that with Chudvcmgent
see next Boute.)
BOUTE 26.
VOSSEVANGEN TO OtJDVANGEN, vid
STALHEIM.
(By road.)
[Distance, 48 kil. Posting in about 6 hrs.
Carriole, 8.26 kr. ; stolkjaerre, 12.26 kr. ; car-
riage, 25 kr. to 35 kr. for 2, 3, and 4 persons.
Betnm same day half charge. A dil. runs
in 7^ hrs., including 2 hrs. at Stalheim. Fare
7 kr.
As the overland route between the Har-
danger and the Sogne fjords, it is much fre-
quented. The stream of tourists is consider-
ably increased by the natural desire to visit,
in any case, StaUieim. Tolerably good trout-
lUhinff all the way.]
On leaving Vossevangen, the road,
which is laid in the valley of the
Vosse-eh) (the volume of which is
increased by tributaries higher up),
becomes at once picturesque, and it
soon reaches the E. shore of the
Lundarvandf and then the Melsvandy
in a fertile and well- wooded district.
Beyond is the Liinevand, where the
bare peaks of the LGnehorg (see pre-
vious Boute) will be seen to the 1., and
the Hondalsnut to the rt. There is
a posting-stat. at
Tvinde ^ (10 kil.) Close to it (1.) is
the pretty Tvindefos^ formed by a
stream that falls into the main
valley, the river in which is followed
along its rt. bank and crossed by a
bridge over the Aasbrekke fos. It is
necessary to be careful in descending
to view this waterfall. The valley
contracts farther on, and is pretty
as well as wild, the Lonehorg being
again visible to the 1. A river flow-
ing down from the Miyrkedal will
then be passed. A track, partly car-
riageable, leads up the Morkedal to
Vik (Hardanger) in about 12 hrs.
Another posting-stat. is reached (and
horses sometimes baited) at
Vinje^ (10 kil.), with a ch., and
in a smiling landscape closed in by
high light-grey mtns. Hence is an
ascent along the bank of a small
stream, and up a narrow valley to
FramnsDS, « at the W. end of the
Ophmnsvand (1007 ft.), where Vosse-
strand parish Ch, and 3fanse, and a
couple of good hotels, « are situated.
There is good fishing (large trout) in
this lake. To the E. rises the Kolda-
fjeld (3945 ft.), and to the S. the
Malmagrdnsnaa/ve (about 3600 ft.)
The road continues along the shore
of the lake, and then, after running
through a pine-wood, crosses the
watershed between the Bolstad and
the Sogne fjords, and follows the
bank of the Ncerddals-elv, Soon
after, the admiration of the traveller
is directed to the grandeur of the
Stalheimsberg, a mamelon on which
is perched the splendid
STALHEIM Hotel ^ (36 kil. from
Voss, and 12 from Gudvangen).
Route 26. — B&rgen to the Sogne Fjord.
125
From the verandah of the hotel is
an impressive view of the dark NcbtH-
dalf surrounded by high mtns. The
blunted cone of the Jordalsnut (3600
ft.) is seen on the one side and the
Koldafjeld on the other. Several glens
open out on all sides, and the pano-
rama is in reality one of the grandest
in Norway. The best elevation for a
view is the BreUkemppa (3 hrs. up
and down with a guide), as the Fdlge-
fomfi and the JostedalsbrcB are visible
from it. The Naalene are worth
yisiting, but only the hardy will
attempt it.
From Stalheim, the road winds
down the Stalheims-klev in 16 zig-
zags, past the Stalheims-fos (rt.) and
the Sivle-fos (1.), and then over the
Stalheims-eh), Splendid views all
the way, the Jordalsnut being on the
1. and a precipitous mtn.-wall to the
rt. Hylland and Skjerpe farms will
be seen on the rt. side of the magnifi-
cent NcBreims (Ncerlklal) valley before
descending to
OUDVAKOEir « (26 kil. ; 12 kil.
from Stalheim), on the Ncero arm of
the Sogne fjord. In the reverse
direction the drive to Stalheim can
be done in 4 hrs. (Carriole, 2.50 kr. ;
stolkjflBrre, 3.50 kr. ; carriage, 9-14 kr.)
This hamlet is so encompassed by
mtns. that the sun's rays never reach
it in winter. The reverberation of guns
occasionally fired from tourist strs.
has the sound of heavy artillery. The
Skjerpenut stands out on the E. and
the SolbjOrgenut on the W. To the
N. of the latter, opposite the posting-
stat., is the KiUfoSy a waterfall of
1850 ft., the first perpendicular part
of it being 500 ft., and the rest a
cataract, but of no great volume. To
the rt. of it is the HestncBsfos^ and
to the 1. the Nautefos^ which, after
uniting with the Eilefos, falls down
separately.
(For Communications with Bergen,
&c., see next Route.)
BOUTB 26.
BEBGBN TO THE BOONE FJORD AND
ITS BBANOHES.
(By str.)
[The So(ine ia the largest and most ramifled
of the fjords oa the W. coast ol Norway, its
length to the head of the Lyster-fjord
being abont 180 kil. Of its numerous
branches, the most extensive and the most
striking for beauty and grandeur of scenery
are the F^ceriatu^fjord^ Sogndalrfjordy Lytter-
fjord (all running up N.), Aarda^fjord (E.),
and the AurUindtfjordy with the Ncereimrfjord
or Ncwlifjord (S.) The district surrounding
these eztensive waters has an area of 3475
sq. m., with a pop. of 38,000 On the whole,
the scenery is wilder, and in part more
Errand, in the Sogne than in the Hardaoger.
This will be recognised more especially in
the larger branches. Although there are
several great waterfalls in the Sogne, they
are not as imposing as those of the Har-
danger, for they seldom carry any large
volume of water. The highest waterl^ll is
the Vetti^fos (870 ft.) The glaeien of the
Sogne send down nearly all their streams
through long valleys that decline gently
towazds the sea-level. On the other hand,
the JottedaMfrcg is the largest Korw^an
glacier, and there are many glaciers, large
and amail, between the A.ardal8 fjord and the
Lyster fjord, carried by the mighty mtn.-
chain of the Horungstindeme. These deserve
more attention than they have hitherto
attracted. The Sogne pop. is remarkable for
its vivacity and endurance, especially in the
upper parte of the fjord, where the best
mountaineers in Norway will be found. Hie
Sogning is very independent in character, and
has but little respect for authority. The
houses are being improved so generally and
rapidly that very few old buildings are
ertant.
CtoMMUNiCATiONB.— Excellent, well-provi-
sioned mail »tr». leave Berg^en (also Stavanger)
several times a week for the Sog^efjord, but
they do not usually touch on the same vo^ge
at all the stopping-places below described.
Their principal course is from Bergen to
LoBrdaitBrmy a point from which communi-
cations with branch fjords are maintained by
local strs. (Consult local time-tables and
126
Route 26. — Bergen to the Sogne Fjord.
advertisements for days and hours of sailing.)
Posting-boats can also be used between points
at no great distance from each other. This
route is therefore divided into : (1) The Main
Route, and (2) Subsidiary Routes.]
I. BsBaEN TO LiEBDALSOBEN.
[Distance, 230 kil. ; fare, 12.40 kr. (2nd
cl. half-price) : return tickets (1 month)
by the larger strs. ; time, generally about
20 hrs.]
After leaving the harbour of Ber-
gen, the Btr. passes through the chan-
nel between Askd and the mainland.
The island is a favourite summer
resort o|f the Bergen citizens, the
neighbourhood of Ask and Hop being
beautifully wooded. Continuing a
northward course along the monoto-
nous coast of Nordhordland, between
rocks and small islands, the str. passes
Eidsvaag and Bystenen (1.), and then
Salhus (where there is a spinning-
mill), before stopping at
Alverstronunen (22 kil. ; 1 hr.), on
the island of Bado. A road runs
along this island to SsBbo, Manger,
and Bo. On the mainland a road
runs N. from Isdal to Seim, NsBSse
Lindaas, and Fanebust in the Fens-
fjord, At Seim is the grave of
Haakon Adelstein. Leaving Bado-
Bund, the str. enters the Lygrefjord^
and passes a multitude of low barren
isolated rooks or "holms," between
which the navigation demands con-
siderable skill. A stoppage is some-
times made at
Lygren (IJ hr.) Other strs. pro-
ceed direct through the Kjeilstrdmy a
long narrow channel, through which
runs a current, sometimes so rapid as
to render the navigation very difficult.
Issuing from this, the str. enters the
wide opening of the Fensfjordt a con-
siderable estuary that branches out
to form the Ostfjord and Masfjord^
which are kept to the rt., the str. pro-
ceeding N. to
Skseijehavn (67 kil.; 3 hrs. from
Alverstrommen), at the N. point of
Sands. The str. next stops at
Evenvik (74 kil.), on the Qulen-
fjord (1 hr.) In its neighbourhood
was held, in the middle ages, the
Qula-Ung^ originally a popular as-
sembly for all the districts between
Sondmdre and Bygjarbit, which in-
clude the modern eccles. provs. of
Bergen and Christiansand, as well as
HaUingdal and Yalders. A tall stone
cross close to the Gh. is visible.
Leaving this stat., the str. proceeds
through the Folefot Sund, between
Hiso and the mainland, and, passing
in open water BingensBS and Sygne-
fest (where the Sognefjord^ begins),
stops at
Lervik (104 kil.), in the BOfjord, on
the N. side of the Sogne. To the 1.
a view of the Lihest (2034 ft.) A
road (without posting-stats.) runs
from Lervik N. to Dale in the Dais-
fjord ( Sdndfjord) . Sometimes the str. ,
instead of stopping here, makes for
BrsBkke on the S. shore of the Sogne.
With a stoppage (occasionally) at
VsBrholmen, it steers for
Lavik (119 kil.), also on the N.
side of the fjord, and, after passing
Trsedal, Torven, and Bjbrdal, makes
a stoppage at
Vadheim ^ (2 hrs. from Lavik),
at the head of the Vadheimsfjordy a
narrow branch penetrating N. (For
posting hence to the SSndfjord and
Nordfjordj see next Boute.)
The str. next stops at
Kirkebd, on the N. shore (1 hr.),
and
Maaren (148 kil.), a pretty place
on the same side of the fjord. Hence
it crosses over to
Ortnevik. High precipitous mtns.
on each side. Hence across the mouth
of the small Finnefjord to Gjeithns
and sometimes to the head of the
narrow Amefjord (171 kil.) A mtn.-
path hence (as well as from Ortnevik)
to Modalen. Touching on some voy-
ages at the small Kramso, the strs.
proceed to
Vik # (178 kil.) (not to be con-
founded with Vik in the Hardanger
and in the S'6ndfjord), The stat. is at
the mouth of a wide and fertile val-
ley of considerable beauty, the upper
part of which is enclosed by finely
wooded mtn.-slopes. The Chs. at
Hove and Hoprekstad are interest-
ing.
Route 26. —Balhohn ; Lunden.
127
[Three roads branch up valleys from Vik
and Yiksbren (each about 11 kil.) SsQter-
paths continue from these, one to StcUheim
(8 hrs.), where It joins the road to Opheim
and Viiye (Rte. 25), another direct to Viiye
(8-9 hrs.) This also forks westward to OtU-
hraa in EksingedcUen,']
On leaving Vik, the str. proceeds
N. to
BaUiolm^ (186 kil.) This is one of
the prettiest places on the main fjord.
Beautiful views (from the verandah
and tower of the Hotel) of the ^se-
fjords a beautiful inlet running W.
and surrounded by the grand Munkeg,
the Qjeiterygy Quldcehle, Furempa,
and the Toten.
[ExcniiSiOMS.— Numerous, to the branches
of the fjord that run W. and N., such as
the jEiefjord^ Svoerefjord (whence a mtn.-
path to the SGndfjord), Vetlefjord (with the
S. branch of the Jostedalt glacier). The mtn.-
path from the head of the latter fjord to
HaukedcUen is a very difficult one, and takes a
long day's march.
The fayourite tnp is to the
Fjcerlandtfjordy at the upper end of which
is Mundal (26 kil. from Balhohn). A str. runs
up several times a week and waits long enough
to enable passengers to view the glaciers.
Mtns. (3935 to 5740 ft.) rise around this grand
fjord. The finest glacier is the Boior-brce. A
" stolkjaerre *' can be used within 3 kil. of
it, the remainder of the way being along a
fairly good footpath. A walk to this glacier
and back oocupira 4 his. The S Supphelle
glaciers can be reached almost the whole way
(about 9 kil.) in a cart. If a conveyance be
used to the Boiorbrce and not much time
spent in viewing it, the other glaciers oan be
visited at the same time and the str. caught on
her return voyage.
If, as is sometimes the case, the str. does
not wait, good accommodation oan be had at
the Mundal ffotel, and the return journey
made by the str. next day.
Mountaineers can obtain good guides at
Mundal for crossing over the fjeld to JSlster
(Skei or Aardal) in about 12 hrs. ; or Aamoi
{stardcd) in about 16 hrs. Bopes necessary
on latter journey.]
On steaming E. from Balhohn,
Tjugum ch. will be seen prettily situ-
ated on a projecting cape. Themouth
of the FjcBrlandsfjordiiiM be crossed,
Vangsncbs promontory passed (to the
rt.), and a stoppage made (by some
strs.) at
FejoB. The high Kvinnafos (gene-
rally with little water) visible. From
Fejos the main fjord is crossed to
the beautiful Systra/ndy dotted with
orchards. This is supposed to have
been the scene of the Fridthjofs-
Saga. Usually the str. proceeds
direct from Balholm in 1 hr. to
Lekanger ^ (193 kil.) Here the
grand part of the Sognefjord is fairly
reached.
The Ch. and Mansey and the resi-
dences of the Prefect and District
Judge enliven the scene. Some of
the strs. go by and stop (3 kil. be-
yond) at
HermansvsBrk. « To the rt.
FresTik and the Aurlands fjord will
be seen. Many pretty trips can be
made hence. An excursion is recom-
mended to the Shrike mtn., from the
summit of which (4093 ft.) a fine
view of the Jotunneim is obtained.
Good trout-fishhig available in the
river and neighbouring lakes. From
either of these stats., the str. turns
into the Sogndalsfjord (or Norefjord)y
passing the farm of SUnde (inhabited
in the 13th and 14th cent.) to
Lunden, beyond which is (1.) the
farm of Fimreite, famous in Norwe-
gian history in connection with the
exploits of King Sverre and King
Magnus. In the Sogndalsfjord was
fought the great sea-battle in which
Magnus was killed, 1184.
Bound the NorencBs headland, with
an ancient upright stone upon it,
Ol/mei/m ch, will be seen, ajid a stop-
page made at Fardaly a pretty place.
Proceeding up the fjord (which
here widens) the old wooden ch. of
Stedje will be passed. Near it are
some beautiful specimens of the weep-
ing birch, for which this part of Nor-
way is famous; also many large
orchards. The ch. is on the site of
a more ancient edifice, in which King
Sverre is said to have worshipped on
the day of the battle of Fimreite. A
Runic stone close by records that
" King Olaf was shot between these
stones.*' There are also 2 large Bar-
rows, The ch. may be visited from
the next landing-place,
Sogndal ^ (215 kil.) With its ch.,
128
Route 26. — Bergen to the Sogne Fjord.
it stands on an old moraine, through
which a river has forced a passage.
Fine views obtainable from the lofty
mtns. around, which are more or less
easily ascended — Storhaugen (3857
ft.), SkHJcm (4093 ft.), and Njuken
(3190 ft.) The ascent and descent
of the latter occupies 6 hrs. Great
havoc was inflicted here by the " Birch
legs "in the 12th cent, when, tra-
dition says, they burned 100 farm-
houses. The present gaa/rds are both
large and numerous. The terraced
valley of the Sogndal extends up-
wards, in a N.E. direction, to the
Sogndals vand,
[KxcuRfliONS. — 1. A fine ezoursion may be
made by the oarriole-road that runs up to the
S. end of the Sogndals vand (II kll.), which
is crossed in a boat (6 Ml.) to Selteng, the
highest farm in the valley. The scenery on
the lake (1550 ft.) is very grand. There is a
small Sanatorium in the Ounvordal^ above the
lake, which is dominated by noble mtns., of
which the most remarkable, Torttadknakken^
is 6018 ft., and can be ascended from Torstad
farm^ midway on the latter. At its upper end
are the Togga (5030 ft.) and the Fruhestent
about 16 kil. from the fjord.
From Selseng the path leads (about 7 kil.)
to ToftahaugstSlen in the Langedal. After
ascending the heights here, the track is to
the rt., over snow, into the Bergdal^ which
runs down to the Fjasrlandsfjord (6 IdL from
Mundal).
The FrudaitifyrcB^ one of the glacier outlets
of the Jostedals ice-fjeld, will be seen on this
excursion.
2. Opposite Sogndal, where the fjord nar-
rows considerably, is Loftemass farm, from
which a carriole-road skirts the E. side of the
fjord to EjorncBS, and then follows the Eid-
Qord to Eidet, and over the hills to Katqfan-
ger and Amble (about 7 kil.)
3. Another carriole-road through splendid
scenery proceeds N. from SogndfJ along a
level track on the shore of the Sogndals fjord
to NagWreriy at its head. The road here passes
under an arch of rock. From Nagloren the
road accompanies the torrent that Hows from
the Hctfilo and Veitestrand lakes. Then the
road ascends the Oilderflkreia by a series of
remarkable zigzags, with the JSelvede^oi and
Futetpranget below on the 1. To the 1. of one
of the bends under a rock grotto is Olafs-
kUden (Olafs Well), where pious travellers
usually deposit a coin. The views from the
upper parts of this road are very fine, includ-
ing the Hafslo lake, the cultivated district of
Hafslo, the fjord, and the Fresvikfjeld.
Beyond Hafslo is the Veitestrands vand, a
long narrow lake (636 ft.) stretching N. to a
distance of 17 kil. From its N. end is a mtn.-
road to the head of the Fjeerlands Qord.
Those who desire to make this excursion may
obtain accommodation at Hafslo, and must
take a boat on the wild, rock-waUed lake of
Yeitestrand.
The carriole-road above-mentioned has 2
branches, one (rt.) to Solvom on the Lyster
fjord (19 kil. from Sogndal) ; the other, to
the 1., and N., over a series of hills to Hille-
stadt (19 kiL from Sogndal), thence, 8 kiL
(pay for 14), to Marifjceren, on the Lyster
fjord.']
Leaving Sogndal, the str. returns
down the fjord, and crosses the Sogne
fjord S. (in 2 hrs.) to
ErMTik, or Frdningen (208 kil.),
enclosed by high mti^. on the S. A
small glaeier seen in the inner part
of tiie fjord. The str. now proceeds
across the mouth of the Ati/rlands-
fjordf and stops at
Froningen (215 kil.), on the S.
shore of the Sogne, under the great
BUia mtn. (6560 ft.), which is, how-
ever, only seen later from the water.
Grossing the fjord again, the str.
enters a small bay in which lies
Amble (221 kil.) Contiguous is
Kaupanger, with a restored Sixbv ch,
and pretty environs. It was a smaJl
town in the middle ages.
[The Storhaug mtn. may be easily ascended.
It commands fine views of the Horunger
mtns. on the N.E. A rosA leads over a hill
to SogndalaQffiren. (See above, "SogndaL")]
From Amble the str. ascends the
LcBrdalsfjord to
LfBDALSdBSN (L8Brdal)« (230
kil.) Pop. 800. The scenery of the
fjord is not interesting, and the ham-
let now reached is rendered sombre
in aspect by the high mtns. that
encompass it. No sun shines on it
from Sept. to April. It is spread
over a small plain, at the mouth of a
river.
The inhabitants are of a quick ancT
lively disposition, and display a spirit
of independence for which their an-
cestors suffered severely in 1799.
[The L8Brdalers refused to supply the
Danish king with soldiers, having previously
been exempt from conscription in considera-
tion of their maintaining a posting-service
over the Fillefjeld and keeping the road in
repair. A detachment of 500 men was sent
from Christiania, and the necessary number
of conscripts was obtained, after the leaders
had been removed under sentences of hard
Route 26.— The AardaU Fjord ; The Lyater Fjord, 129
labour, and one of them decapitated at Ber-
gen. The LsBrdal coutingent was distin-
guished for its bravery in the wars of 1807-
1814.]
As stated at the head of this Boute,
Lserdalsdren is an important point
for communication with the finest
portions of the Sogne fjord, viz. its
branches, and also as the terminus
(and vice versd) of the high road that
runs to Ghristiania over the Fille-
fjeld. (Described in Bte. 8.) The
tourist traffic is frequently congested
at this point, and the use of the tele-
graph is recommended, especially in
the case of large parties.
II. SUBSmiABY BOUTBS IN THE
SOONE FjOBD.
[Under this head will be described fjords
that are not usually entered by stra. on the
main route or described on it — viz. the
Aardal, Lyster^ Aurland, and Naerd fjord*.
Time-tables and advertisemetUt muit he eon-
suited at Bergen, LaerdalsSren, and other
principal points on the Sogne. The develop-
ment of the tourist traffic is bo rapid that it
is impossible, at the present stage of it, to
convey information in respect of the sailings
and stopping {daces of strs. with an accuracy
that would be available for more than one
season.
Taking LcerdalsSren as the starting-point,
these routes will begin with the Aardal^ the
N.E. terminal branch of the Sogne, from
which the other fjords not yet described will
be visited on the way back to Bergen.]
1. The Aardals Fjobd.
[This fjord is visited by strs. that ascend on
the same tour the Lyster fjord, the trip to
both fjords and back to LsBrdalsbren occupying
about 13 hrs. Distance to Aardalttangen 30
kil. Fare 1.60 kr. A rowing-boat wlU take
about 6 hrs.]
Steaming out of the Laardalsf jord,
Vikedal (Nadviken), in the Aardals
fjord, is reached in 1 hr. On the N.
shore will have been seen the Bod-
lenakken (3075 ft.) and the Brcend-
hovdy the wooded Yire and Indre
Offredal lying between them. Next,
the large, lateral Seimsdal opens out,
and then a grand amphitheatre of
mtns. around
Aabdalstanoen « (Aardal), where
the Aarddla falls into the fjord. The
hamlet lies on an old beach, now
considerably elevated. The snow-
[Norway—yi, 92.]
clad Slettefjeld (4440 ft.) rises oppo-
site.
IBxcxjRBioss.— (1) The Aardiasvand and
Vetti-fos (see Bte. 11).
(2) From the YettUtoa^SJ^IdenKadFortun
on the Lyster fjord may be reached by sleeping
at ^ergedal sceter (5 hrs.), crossing the Hur-
tmgeme chain to Bergen (7 hrs.), thence to
atyolden (3 hrs.)
(3) From the N. end of the Aardals vand,
near J/oen, a farm crowning the farow of a
sandhill, is a rough path leading (in 10-13
hrs. from Aardal) down to Nystwen. on the
Flllo-fjeld (Bte. 8).
(4) The StdUnostind (6690 ft), among the
Horungeme^ between Fleskedal and Morka-
Koldedalj can be ascended (in about 7 hrs.)
either from Veltis-morJty or the Fleskedal
sceter. The top is very steep.
(5) The old Aardal Copper-itorks can be
reached from Fartues by sleeping at HolseU
&rm, whence a walk of 3 or 4 hrs. there and
baok.
(For details of these and other mtn. excur-
sions from Aardal, consult Frol Nielsen's
BeUehaandbog.y]
2. The Lysteb Fjobd.
[Communication from LsBrdalsOren by strs.
that enter also the Aardals fjord. Time there
and back, for both fjords, about 13 hrs. Cds-
tanoe to Skjolden, 53 kiL: fare, 3.80 kr.;
and from Bergen, 267 kil. : fare, 14.30 kr.]
After reaching the main fjord the
str. crosses over into the magnificent
Lysterfjord, which combines the
grandeur due to the height of mtns.
on both sides, and the beauty of
fertile shores, with alluvial bays and
strands, on which are rich and
picturesque homesteads, surrounded
by orchards. The water acquires a
milky appearajice from the numerous
glacier streams that fall into the
fjord, and is fresh on the surface,
while salt below. The first stoppage
in this fjord is at
Solvom^ (Yollakeb). The tour-
ist who intends visiting the Jostedal
may either land here and proceed by
cai^iole-road to Ma/lifjcBren, or con-
tinue on board.
Opposite Solvorn is Umczs and its
Stav ch. (of the 11th cent.) with re-
markable carvings. It is weU worth
seeing, being one of the most ancient
in Norway. Near it are 2 large
barrows* This is the scene of the
story of Hagbard and Signe. Signe*»
180
Route 26. — Bergen to the Sogne Fjord,
bcfwer, and the rock where Hagbard
rested, are still shown. Urnses can
be reached by boat frdkn MaHfjcBren
(see below) in IJ hr. The pretty
Feigefos is visible.
[There is a intn.-road hence to SupheUe teeter
and the Fjaerlanda fjord, vid UUlettad and
Haftlo, This is a fatiguing day's work, with
a guide. (See " Balholm " on main Sogne
route.)]
On the E. shore of the fjord is
Krokm, farm, anciently a mansion,
and long held by the family of the
late Gerhard MvmXhA^ a celebrated
historian. CSlose to it, but not seen
from the water, is the pretty Him-
<2e/o5.
After passing a large wood of elms,
and many fine farms, the str. swings
round the base of the McXlen (3665
ft.) into the Oaupnefjord^ N. of which
rises the snow-clad Hesten,
[The MoUen is best ascended (on horse-
back) from Solvorn, for it is much steeper
on the Marifjceren side. The view from the
summit is magnificent, commanding the
Homnger peaks and the snow-fjelds of the
Jostedal, with the fjord almost perpendicu-
larly below. A day should be allowed for
ascent and return.]
The next stopping-place is Mari-
Qseren « (1 hr. from Solvom), plea-
santly situated on the Qcmpnefjord,
and the nearest stat. for visiting the
magnificent Jostedal glaciers (in 1^
to 2 days). At the upper end of the
Gaupnefjord is Bonnes (Bonneid),
3 kil. beyond this stat. It can also
be reached by boat in A an hr.
Before exploring the glaciers a
walk should be taken to the old
Joranger ch.^ on a hill N.W., whence
a fine view of the fjord and the
Feigefos mentioned above. From
Hundshammer farm (S.), part of the
JostedaU-brcB is visible to the N.
[Excursions and Journbys.
The Jostedalt-brxB has a length of about
96 kil., an area of 602 sq. m., and carries
a larger amount of perpetual snow than any
other glacier either in Norway or in any
other part of Europe. The highest snow is
found at an altitude of 6850 ft., while
its lowest limit is mostly 3940 to 4590 ft.
Extensive snow -fields also surround the
Jostedal, at an elevation of 5575 ft., and.
taken together, their area must be as great
as that of the Jostedal itself, which sends out
24 glaciers of the first rank, in the Sogne,
the Nordfjord, and the Sbndf jord.
To the artist, the Jostedal region affords
numerous subjects of the grandest descrip-
tion of Alpine scenery. The dwellings are
few and of the poorest character.
(1) The Jostedal. A new road now runs
from Mar![fjfl9ren to Bonnei (Oanpne ch. to
L), where the Jostedal, watered by a river
of the same name, begins. It follows chiefly
the bank of the stream, partly through woods.
At Leirmo, the Leira^ produced by the great
Turubergdali-brce (14 kiL long), is passed,
after which a fiat bit of road to
Alamo (14 kil.) The valley contracts, the
road still running along the river, which ia
left somewhat after passing a farm to the
1. The stage ends at
Bperle (13 kil., pay for 16). Grood quarters.
A wooded height is now ascended, the spurs
of the Vangaen (5710 ft.) and then a descent
made to Jo^edal ch. and manse. Hence again
an ascent past a pretty waterfall (L), and then
down to the river, the bank of which is thus
more or less kept. The Myrhom peaky with
a beautiful /o« on its N. side, is visible.
At Fagerdal a bridge spans the stream
that rises from the Krondal glaciers. Tra-
velers wishing to see the 3 Krondal glaciers
(or Bersetbroer) must climb up the heights
to the 1. From Kronen farm, in this vaUey,
the glaciers can be crossed in 12 hrs. to Loeti
(Nordfjord).
This passage was first effected by Nor-
wegian soldiers in 18 1 5, and was not a ttempted
again until 1880, when Mr. Trotter, an Alpine
climber, repeated the feat successfully.
Some way beyond, the Nigarsdal opens to
the L In it the Nigars-brce exhibits its en-
tire length. Its course, formerly computed
at 6| kil., has considerably lengthened during
the present cent. Its breadth has been es-
timated at about 1000 yds.
Hence, without going round the Nigar or
the iOWoeer, the Jostedal river is crossed to its
1. bank by a bridge, the glacier being kept in
sight. Ascending a steep road, the valley
will be seen to open out, the Fcegerdal, wl^th
a pretty waterfall, being viewed to the rt.
The end of the stage is at
Faaberg {Nedre Faaberg) (19 kil. ; 2\ hrs.
from Jostedal ch.), where quarters, and a
guide for further journeys, are obtainabla
(2) Bkiaker (between Gudbrandsdal and
the Geiranger fjord) can be reached in
16 hrs. from Faciberg (see above), where a
mtn.-way leads to Oleaseter in Stordalen
(11 kil.) Thenoe a tolerably good path runs
to Handapprie (15 kiL), down to JCysebyt
sseter (10 kiL), and to a carriageable road (17
kil. distant)by which ITdrk in Braaten (8 kiL)
is reached. The'^Ornesteg glacier is passed on
this journey, and the Lodals-brce^ one of the
largest in Scandinavia, seen in the Stordal.
(3) Other great glaciers between the Joste-
dal and the Nord and SSnd fjords, more accessi-
ble from the latter, will be mentioned in a
subsequent route.
(4) A favourite and pleasant trip is from
Route 26.—Skjolden J The Aurlandsfjord. 131
Maxifjseren to Sog^dal (or vice versd\ pick-
ing up- the str. at either end. The drive
across occupies 5 hrs., horses being changed
halfway at Hillestad, where there is good
trout- fishing. '\
From MarmsBren the str. crosses
the mouth of the Oaupnefjord to
KsBB ch. On the opposite side of
the fjord is the Feigefos already men-
tioned. After rounding Fagernaes,
and passing farms with large or-
chards, a stoppage is made at
Bosen (8 kil. from Marifjaeren),
from which also is a good road (12 kil.)
The Ch, here {Dale), although a poor-
looking edifice, is the parish ch. of
the Lyster fjord. Its W. door is
interesting.
[A narrow valley, shut in by a steep wall
of rock, runs inland from Dbsen. A track
through it leads over the Storhaug (2600 ft.)
and to the JostedcU^ at Myklemyr farm, near
Sperle (posting-stat, ; see above); distant
about 28 kil. from Dbsen.]
Passing on the rt. Skv/rvenosi and
the small MordalsfoSy the str. reaches
the N. end of the fjord (7 kil. from
D5sen) at
Skjolden, at the mouth of the
Fortun river. The posting-stat. is
close to the pier (at Eide), where
good quarters are provided by T,
Suhlemif an excellent guide, being in
fact one of the best mountaineers in
Norway. He made with Mr. Slingsby
the first ascent of the SkagesWlstind
and other great peaks of the Jotun
mtns. Below the stat. there is ex-
cellent sea-trout fishing (in river
and lake), the fish running up to
15 lbs.
[The narrow Aforkereidal ascends to the 1.,
sheltering many farms. A mtn.-path leads
up to the Skiaker mtns. in Gudbrandsdalen
and to the western part of the valleys of the
Otta.
The Fortundal is very grand. A road (8
kil.) runs to Fortun ch. and, beyond, to
Fortun. A track hence to the FortungcUder.
Near Turtegro (sleeping accommodation),
reached by road from Fortun (10 kil.), mag-
nificent views are obtainable from several
heights, and the great Skagestdlstind peak
(7721 ft.) may be easily ascended thence.
The grandest view of the Horungerne is from
the Dyrhaugstind (6362 ft.), which lies in
the centre of that mtn.-group. It can be
climbed from Fortun. Ascent difficult, but
not dangerous (Bte. 11).
Berdals 88Bter(with a tourist hut), between
Fortun and Aardal (see (1) the "Aardalsf jord"),
is also a good centre for an exploration of the
Horungerne.
From Eide {Skjolden) it is a day's walk
over the Reiser pass to Skogadalsbden, a tour-
ist hut in Utladalen, Western Jotunheim (see
Rte. 11).
Rdiseim in Lorn (Gudbrandsdalen), a dis-
tance of 66 kiL, can be reached from Fortun
in 2 days (horse 20 kr.), sleeping at Bceverthun
sceteTf at the W. end of thje lake of the same
name. Plain and limited accommodation
(see Bte. 11).]
From Skjolden the str. takes either
a direct course back to LsBrdalsoren,
or first ascends the Aardalsfjord,
already described.
3. The Aurlandsfjord and
N-ZER6rJ0RD.
[Prom LaBrdalsbren (and vice versd) almost
daily communication by str. with Oudvangen
in the Naerbf jord, in 4 hrs. ; fare, 3 kr,
Bergen to Gudvangen, 237 kil.; fare,
12.80 kr.]
As far as Fronningen, the course of
the str. from Lssrdalsoren is the same
as that of the main route (which
consult). A little beyond, it turns
into the Aurlandsfjord, broad and
monotonous at its mouth. .The mtns.
soon, however, begin to rise to a
great height on either hand, with
sides so precipitous as to admit of no
human habitation. Below BreisncBs
the fjord bifurcates and forms on the
W. the NcerU (Ncereims) fjord. Bor-
dered by stupendous, partly perpen-
dicular cliffs that rise to 3300-5600
ft., it is the grandest branch of the
Sogne, if not the finest of all Nor-
wegian fjords. The Steganosi, on
the E. side (which separate the 2
arms, and are the highest and steep-
est), rise to 5660 ft. The colossal
dimensions of the physical features
of this fjord impress the traveller as
much as they baffle adequate descrip-
tion within the limits of a handbook.
The waterfalls, seen here and there,
are dwarfed into insignificance by the
mtns. they descend. At the upper
part of the fjord is Dyrdal (rt.), at
e2
182
Route 27. — Vddheim to the Sondfjord.
the mouth of whioh a high mtn.-top
comes in sight, with a small hole,
through which daylight appears for
a couple of minutes when viewed
from the deck of the str. Passing
what remains (after a landsUp) of
Styve farm, Bakke ch. will be reached
on the rt. With a magnificent view
of the mtns. in front, the traveller is ^
soon landed at
OndyaBgen. « (For communioa-
tions overland, consult Bte. 25 in a
reverse direction.) Even if not pro-
ceeding to Vossevangen, Bergen, or
the Hardanger, travellers must not
fail to drive to Stalheim (12 kil.) and
back.
In order to reach Aurlandsvangen
in the upper part of Aurlandsfjord,
the str. descends (in 1^ hr.) the
Nserofjord, and, rounding the Beiteln
promontory, enters the twin fjord.
On the E. side will be seen farms
perched on places apparently inac-
cessible, while on the W. shore is
Stegadn farm, from which it is ex-
tremely difficult to carry the bodies
of the dead. While somewhat broader
at its head, the Aurland has many of
the grand features of the Nserdfjord.
Crossing the mouth of the pretty
UnderM, the str. soon stops at
Aurlandsvangen {good quarters) ^ at
the mouth of the Aurland river j which
runs down from the Hallingdal mtns.
Sea-trout fishing good.
[There is a mtn.-track henoe to ffol in
Hallingdal (about 2i days' tramp). It oom-
mends itself to the admirers of grand mtn.
scenery. A shorter, but also interesting, tour
is from Aurland ch. to ToT^m eh. in the Leer-
dal (li day), passing under the Modnenipa to
Hodnedai sceter. A fine view of the Horunge
peaks is obtained on this excursion.
TTlvik in the Hardanger fjord can be
reached hence in 2 days (sleeping at a aceter),
although in 1882 Prof. Nielsen crossed over
in less than 1 day. It is hard work, but
highly Interesting. A boat is first taken to
Fretteim at the mouth of the Fkumudaly
the Ch. of that name being reached thence in
about I hr.,andin about 3 hrs. Melhiu, in a very
narrow vaQey, with little sunshine towards
the end of Aug. (Here a guide to Ote or
Uloik can be engaged.) The next place, in
I hr., is Kaardal (a large waterfaU), whence
Ose (in the Hardanger) can be reached in
hrs., and, from 0»e, a boat will take the
traveller in 1^ hr. to Ulvik. The tele^lrapli-
poles are generally followed. In 2^ hia. more
the pedestrian reaches Gravehalten^ wliejre
there is a small hut (for the telegraph ser-
vants) and a lake, genendly covered with
ice. Passing 2 stone heaps that mark the
track, a walk of another hour ends at Opaet-
■tolene, whence Vossevangen is acoessible by
a track about 45 kil. in length. If the pedes-
trian proceeds direct to Ulvik, his stages
will be : Slondalscetre (about 2 hrs.) ; JPcuhSi-
den (4000 ft.) ; SoUivand (2^ hrs.) ; andthence
}n 1^ hr. to TJlvik.]
ROUTE 27.
VADHEIlf (sOONEFJOBD) TO THB SdND-
FJOBD AND TO VAEBLO (uTVXK) JX
THE NOBDFJORD.
(By road.)
[This is one of the most interesting inland
trips in Norway, leading to Molde^ and afford-
ing many opportunities of viewing glaoiera
and the most beautiful soeneiy.
For means of reaching the SogneQord,
consult the 2 previous Boutes. Str8.froni
Bergen stop at v adhelm several limes weekly.
Time, 8J to 10 hrs. ; fare, 7.60 kr. Although
some of the posting-stats, are not "fai^**
yet there is seldom difficulty in inroonring
horses. It is advisable to secure one of Ben-
nett's conveyances at a small extra charge.]
Vadheim. « (See previous Boute.)
The posting-road runs along the 1.
bank of the river ; the first part of it
being subjected to the rolling down
of stones, has therefore to be passed
quickly. It improves as the valley
widens, and after crossing to the rt.
bank returns to the 1., passing 2
small lakes. From N. the road now
turns westward through a pine-wood,
and reaches a small height from
which HcHmedal ch, is seen in a
lateral valley, in which the GauXa is
crossed, ^e stage ends at Sanda
F.S.WeJlcr.
Route 27. — Langeland ; Hafstad ; Egge. 133
(15 kil.) Excellent quarters. Good
laJce> Urout-fishmg free of charge^
[A road runs henoe to Osm and Sveen (14
kil.) Another leads B. to the Viknand
(7 Ml.) and the Svaereskoi.']
A hilly drive, in beautiful scenery,
now ends in a steep ascent to
Langeland (11 kil., pay for 14).
Poor quarters. Thence by very steep
road, through grand scenery, over a
watershed (1150 ft.) to
Hafstad i Forde (11 kil., pay for 14
southwards). First-rate quarters at
the head of the F&rde fjord (Sond-
fjobd), where a fine stream, affording
excellent fishing^ debouches. (Str.
hence to Bergen.)
From Hafstad the new road turns
E. up a beautiful valley, along the
river, without crossing it. Steep in
this direction, it runs past pretty
white homesteads that have a well-
to-do appearance. After about 6 kil.
the Movand is skirted, and then
crossed at its narrowest part. At its
N.E. end is Mo fa/rmy near which is
the small but perpendicular Huldre-
fo9k Beyond, the drive is through a
forest to the S.W. end of the large
mtn.-girt Jblstervandt on the shore
of which is
Nedre Vassenden i Jolster ^ (19
kiL) Small sirs, run several times a
da^ to
Skei ^ (dvre Vassenden), at the
N.E. end of the lake, in 2 hrs. Close
to the inn is & very good trovi stream,
[A track runs from the vicinity of Mo farm
to the ffauMandvand, from which are several
interestittg pedestrian tours.]
From Hedre 'Vassenden a good road
runs along the Jolster lake, past
c7oZ«^e9^and Hglgeim chs. To the 1.
of the latter is seen the great Limde^
brcs, an oflshoofe of the Jostedals-
brw, which can be crossed hence^
The most intevesting part of the road
begins before reaching the stat. of
Aardal (16 kiL) Good quarters.
[A mtn.-path rnns hence (from the other
side of Xdlster lake) to Haukedalen, Tolerable
quarters at Reinaa farm on the TS. shore of
the Haukedalsmnd. There is a zigsag carriole
road from the lower end of the lake to Sanda
(20 kil.), round Viksvcmd lake. It is shorter
to cross the latter (15 kil.), and the distance is
only 6 kiL from the S. end of the Vikwand
to SandBh along a river with many pretty
falls.]
From Aardal the road runs to
dvre Vassenden » or Skeiy the old
stat. at the N.E. end of the Jolster-
vand, to which the strs. run (see
above). A low watershed is next
passed, and a small lake, which dis-
charges its waters into the Skrede-
vand rN.) Boad more hilly. To the
rt. will be seen opening out the
Stardal.
[At about 10 kil. from Aardal, a carriole
road (14 Ml.) runs up the Stardal to Olden^ at
the head of the Nordfjordy past Aamot^ whence
in 4^ hrs. on foot a height is reached from
which a splendid view of the mtna. is ob-
tained. The tracks divide here, the one to
the rt. being the most easily descended, but
not so favourable for views as the other,
which crosses the river. A guide is absolutely
necessary for the descent to MGkleboUy whence
3 kil. to Eustden, at the upper end of the
Olden vand.
The old posting-road, on which the scenery
is fine, runs oft to the ]., along the river that
flows out of the Skredevandy past F&rde (16
kil.), and Re (12 kil.) A road is in construc-
tion from Re to Voitenden (6 kiL), and to
Sandene (6 kiL) on the Olopp^jard.]
The new posting-road turns off
at
Elageg stat. (13 kil.) into 'the
Vaatedal, passing Strand. Scenery
grand. The beautiful Eggembha f jeld
right in front. The stage ends
at
Bggre^* (9 kil.) The river is now
crossed, and Moldestad (whence there
is a beautiful road of 5 kil. to Re)
passed. The road ascends to the
ridge between Breimi and Utviken,
opening fine views of the Eggembha
and the Vaatedal. On reaching an
altitude of 2230 ft. the road runs
over a bare and wild fjeld. Soon
will be seen below the fjord, sur-
rounded by mtns. of grand aspect,
although not many exceed 2300 ft.
134
Route 28. — Faldde to Hettesylt^
The descent is at first steep, but a
new road is soon reaohed which,
with many windings, and offering
charming views of the beautiful
fjord, brings the traveller with more
ease to
VJEBLO in Utvlken (26 kil.), beau-
tifully situated on the S. shore of the
Indvikfjordj a prolongation of the
Nordfjord and the Utfjord,
[For communication with Bergen by str.
see Rte. 29. The next Boute describes the
section of the journey to Molde.]
ROUTE 28.
FALBIDE TO HELLESYLT.
(By road.)
[For communication by str. with Bergen,
see next Boute and foregoing Boute for road
between the Sogne and Nord fjords.
If no str. be available, a boat takes the
traveller across the Indviifjord to Faleide in
1^2 hrs. Charge for a boat with 2 rowers
2.26 kr., 3 rowers 3.41 kr., 4 rowers 4.51 kr.,
and a gratuity of 30 o. to each boatman.]
Faleide ^ (Faleidet), 11 kil. from
Vflerlo, and on the opposite (N.) shore
of the Indvikfjord, This is deser-
vedly a much-frequented place, for
its position is very beautiful, and it
offers facilities for excursions to neigh-
bouring hiaacheB oiiheJostedals-brcB,
To the E. a splendid mtn. perspec-
tive.
[Excursions.— (1) The Skantenfjeld (5473
ft.) can be ascended hence by way of Algjel in
about 8 hrs.
(2) The Aareim0eldf in Strpn, vi&Bakey in
7 hrs.
(3) The Olittereggen, on the Horningsdal
vand — (a) by driving to JSJ&s (12 kil.) and
rowing to Holmo (6 kil.) ; and (&) by way
of Rddbergy BlaJcsceter, and Bceversceternakien ;
and
(4) The Strpn (Opstryn\ Loettj and Olden
lakes are, severally 1 day's excursion. If the
weather should be unfavourable for returning
across the fjord, good hotels will be found at
VitnceSy Loen^ and Olden. A small str. xxms
occasionally between Faleide^ Visnces, Loen,
Olden, and Vcerlo {Utvik).
(6) The Strynsvand to Grjotll This is
one of the finest mtn.-tourB in Norway. It has
hitherto taken about 10 hrs. (on foot, by
water, and by horse) ; but a good road all the
way win soon be ready, when a new and fuller
description of the tour will be necessary.
The Strymtand (Opstryn) is a splen^didlake,
16 kil. long, on which a str. plies to Hjelle, at
its S.E. end, whence a road, partly constructed,
runs N.B. in the direction of Grjotli, on the
posting-road between Gudbrandsdal and the
Oeiranger fjordy described in Btes. 12 and 31.
At Hjelle, where the grand snow-clad mtns.
of the OreidungsdcU will be seen, a carriole
can be engaged (1.25 kr.) for the drive to
Skaare (9 kiL), through the splendid Hjelledal,
from the rt. of which branches off the
Sundal valley. Hence, the deep ravine of the
SkjceringdaU-elv will be crossed and the foot
of the Aaspelifjeld ascended by curves, in
magnificent scenery. The stage (about 12
kil.) ends at Via Sceter. The road then runs
along the Videdal river, which rushes down,
partly in fine falls, to the Strynsvand, which,
on looking back, is seen from here in all its
grandeur. The river is crossed twice again
before reaching a lake, on the Tystig heights
above which snow often lies in Aug.
After passing another lake a narrow valley
is descended to a level part of the road, with
2 smaD lakes to the rt. The Vasvendal is now
entered, Raueggen peak being on the rt. and
Vawendaleggen on the L To the rt. opens out
the Maaraadal with glaciers in the back-
ground. The Heilstuguvand is next skirted
for a considerable distance, the Skridulaup
towering over it. Descending the L bank of
the Maaraa elv and crossing a bridge over
the Ottay the road (already maide to this point)
leads (3 kil.) to Grjotli.1
The road now to be travelled runs
S., steeply at first, through a pine-
forest (with a view of the fjord) to-
wards a fjeldy of which the highest
point is 840 ft., and then descends
towards, and crosses, a river. To the
1. a bad road branches off to Oiene
farm, from which VisncBS can be
reached in about 3^ hrs. The main
road soon descends to Kjdsbundeny a
small branch of the Hommdals
vandj and continues along it to
Ejos (12 kil., pay for 17). A boat
can be taken here to the next stat.
The scenery on the road continues to
be very wUd, and of great beauty and
grandeur, during this and the 4 sub-
sequent stages, the first of which is
Route 28. — Ghrodaas ; KjelstadU; HdlesyU, 135
OrodaaB^ (6 kil., pay for 8).
Beautiful view of the mtn.-girt Horn-
indal lake, which is 26 kil. long,
1590 ft. deep, and 22 Eng. sq. m. in
area.
[A small str. runs on it to Nor (in 3| hrs. ;
fare, 1.50 kr.), whence there is a road (9 kil.)
to Nordfjordeidet, There are mtn.-paths from
G-rodaasto
1. Stryn^ yi& Grdthauglietiy the Smaaskar,
and the Togning taeter (3 hrs.)
2. SdndmSre, yi& Kviven (about 5 hrs.)
3. BjOrke, on the BjSrendfjordy over the
FtusentU (6^ hrs.), a trip of great beauty
and grandeur, affording easy ascents of many
peaks.]
The road hence keeps close to the
Homindal river, passing the Ch.
and Ma/nse of that name. Grossing
the river and ascending steadily,
partly through woods, its next stage
is at
Indre Haugen (11 kil., pay for 9
kil. in reverse direction). The stat.
lies under the shadow of Homindals-
rokken (5300 ft.), crowning one of
the finest precipices in Norway, but
better seen on the next stage. It
was ascended in 1866, with a guide,
by Mr. J. B. Campbell, in 10 hrs.
there and back.
IStryn can be reached hence by a mtn.-
path in about 4 hr&]
Hence, the aspect of the country
becomes wilder : the predpioe above
mentioned is seen to the 1. at the
head of a valley, the river from which
is crossed. Beyond, the BiH'htis-
mhha, another remarkable mtn., is
sighted to the rt. Grossing the boun-
dary of the prefect, of Bomsdalen
and entering the SUndmtire district,
the steep ascent ends at
^eUtadU (6 kil.) The Homina'
dalsrok can be ascended hence in 6
hrs. up and down. The road now
runs down the 1. bank of a tributary
of the Surme elv^ Biirhiisddlen heiag
kepi to the rt., while the wild Kjel-
staddal will be on the 1. after crossing
the stream. Tronstad, formerly a
posting-stat., and a small river, will
be passed before the rt. bank of the
main stream is again attained. The
traveller is now in the Langedal^ and
ascends a hill from which the Nibbe-
dai is seen to the 1. and later entered.
From this point a cross-foad leads to
Aalesund, vid the Norangsdal and
die and Scebift through a picturesque
paxt of the country ; the mtn. scenery
repaying the trouble of its explora-
tion.
The road, running once more along
the 1. bank of the river, sinks gradu-
ally from Langeland farm, beyond
which is the Sveabro, The fjord
opens out more and more, and to tht
1. is the river that issues from the
MoldskreddcU. After passing a narrow
ravine, the road descends in many
long windings and over a fine Waterfall
by which the river discharges itself
into the Geiranger fjord. Winding
at last past a C^., it terminates
at
HELLESYLT^ (13 kil.), situated
in the neighbourhood of magnificent
scenery, at the head of the StmelvB-
fjordj an arm of the Storfjord^ which
is one of the grandest in Norway.
This is a pleasant place to stop at
for 2 or 3 days, or longer, as it is
surrounded on all sides by singu-
larly wild scenery, affording abundant
ground for the mountaineer.
Beyond the hamlet is a wild valley ,
and immediately in front is the fjord,
with the Ljbfjeld to the rt. and the
entrance to the Oevranger fjord to
thel.
[There is almost daily str. communication
with Aalesund and Moltie (see next Boute),
and also with Maraak {MenA) in the Q«ir-
anger fjord (see below).]
[BxcuBSiONS.— Amongst the finest are :
1. To Karaak.* When the Aalesund str.
is not available for this trip of 21 kil. (time
li hr. ; fare 1.10 kr.), and if travellers do not
get the small str. which may be hired for the
purpose, a boat should be engaged. The
charge is 13 kr. there and back with 3
rowers, who will take about 31 hrs. to reach
Maraak. The grand scenery of the Qeiranger
is better viewed from a boat than from the
str. (For description of the fjord, see Bte.
31.)
3. DHve (24 kil.) or walk (6 hrs.) to Oie In
the Norangtfjord. Ascending by a poor road
the Nibbedal,Fivelsiadhaugen* (or Nibbedals-
136 Bouie 29. — Bergen to the Sondfjord and Nordfjord.
haagen) (10 kil.) is reached on an old moraine.
Beyond, to the 1., is a small glacier on the
top of KvUeggen (6625 ft.) Crossing the
watershed (1216 ft.), the road runs down into
the Noreatgidai, by the side, first, of 2 small
lakes. SsBters will be seen built between
rocks for protection against the stones that
frequently roll down the valley sides, some-
times killing cows and sheep. The glen
contracts more and more, and its character
becomes gloomily wild, Masses of snow that
never thaw lie in it, the sun being unable to
reach them. VoUowing the rirer, and meet-
ing with a waterfall to the rt., the traveller
comes to a broader and less wild part of the
valley. The mtns. increase in height {Skru-
ten rising to 6380 ft.) Farms reappear, and,
crossing a bridge and an old moraine, the
traveller reaches
Oie,* grandly situated on the Norangs-
fjord* The StandaUkorn stands out promi-
nently aigtong the mtns.
Prom Oie travellers can reach Orstenviken
on the Orsten flord and Volden on the fjord
of that name. A boat is taken to the HjSrend-
fjordj across to Mj6fendfjord eh. at SoebOvikeny
in a small bav on the W. side of the fjord,
where the boat will be left at Rue (10 kil. from
Oie). Good quarters in the house of the
Lensmand. Here opens to the W. the broad
and pretty BoruM, up which is an easy day's
walk to Volden or Orsten. The Kolaastind
will be seen on the way, before reaching a
height surrounded by bogs. To the .1. is a
tarn, to the rt. a valley, leading to Orsten-
viken. To the rt. a road runs a short distance
up the Bjbrdal. Splendid view of peaks.
This point can be reached on foot from Rise
in 2^ hrs. The road sinks again until it ap-
proaches Vatne (20 kil., when driving pay for
25 kil.) Hence the road runs along the E.
side of the Vatneoand, at the N.E. end of
which ^t bifurcates, the one on the L being
new. Orstenviken is 10 kil. hence, over the
KlGvdalseid. The Kolaastind and other peaks
stand out pronainently on this lM<anch xoad^
which is prettier than the one through the
Bondal. The, end of the journey is reached
at Rosset i Volden* (13 kil.; about 9 hrs. walk
tTom Rise. The distance from Bosset to
brstensviken by road is 11 kil.)
3. The D5ne fas and FrSjsefos, on the road
to the Strynsvand, can be visited, there and
back, in 3 hrs., bv driving. The former of
these has a sheer xall of 150 ft. By crossing a
bridge the best view of it is obtained.
4. KvUteggen mtn. (mentioned under 2) can
be ascended from Hellesylt in 7 hrs., there
and back.
5. A row to the Lysurdals elv (6 hrs. there
and back) gives a full view of the magnificent
Geiranger ^ord, up to Maraak (see 1).]
ROUTE 29.
BEBQEN TO THE BONDFJOBD AND
NOBDFJOBD.
(By str.)
[Consult time-tables for strs. from Bergen,
and local str. from Florb and SeBtrenaes.
Prom Bergen : To Fdrde {SQndfjord) 186
kiL ; 22 hrs. ; fare, 10 kr. To Bryggen (Nbrd-
Jjord) 308 kil. ; 24 hrs. ; 11.20 kr. To Faleide
iNordfjmrd) 275 kil.; 34 hrs.; 14.80 kr. To
Oldifren (.Olden) 289 kil. ; 35 hrs. ; 15.60 kr.
The principal general stopping-places are
mentioned in this Route, but other points are
frequently touched at.]
Steering from Bergen the same
course as when bound for the Sogne-
fjord (Bte. 26), with variations as to
stopping-places, the strs. on this
Bonte touch at
SkjsBijehAvn (67 Ml.) The mouth
of the Sognef jord is next crossed, and
a stoppage made at
Indre Steinsond, dose to which is
Bvlen oh. Betuming along the N.
coast of the Sognestjdt a stat. is
reached at
Naara, at the southernmost point
of Yire StUen,
From this point the steamship
routes for the Sondfjord and the
Nordfjord must be given separately.
A. The SoNDFJOBD. — Strs. on the
SlSndfjord line proceed S. of Sulen to
Kraakhellesvnd, between Indre Sulen
and Losneden, while those bound for
the Ntjrdfford steer from Naara and
Indre Steinsund, between islands, up
to the Laagdfford {where the sea can
be rough), and to Boskden, on the S.
side of the 8filen islands. Some of
Route 29. — Dale ; Kalvaag ; SceirencBt.
137
the sirs, stop at SSrbdvaag or VcerG.
In the vicinity will be seen Alden
island, with mtns. (Norshe HesteUy or
"Horse") 1655 ft. high, rising per-
pendicularly out of the water. Gene-
rally the strs. steer from Buskoen
out into the open Bvfjord (Aspo-
fjord) to
FrsBBtden (119 kil.), in the 8aue-
swndy between the mainland and
AtlQefij where Askevold ch. will be
seen.
Strs. proceeding only to the Sdnd-
fjord ascend the DaUfjord to
StrdTrmcBSi whence the Flekke-
fjord runs up to the long Ovddal.
{Trout-fishing in its many lakes.)
Their next stopping-place is
Bale, on the S. side of the fjord,
ajbong which are mtns. up to about
4600 ft. The isolated Dalshest peak
(2330 ft.), right opposite, will attract
the attention of the traveller, as will
also the Krmglen peak (about 100 ft.
more). Higher up will be seen the
Laukelandshestf with a waterfall of
the same name (about 300 ft. high),
and the Kvamhest (4395 ft.) Hence
the course is to
Sveen (148 kil.) Here the str. stops,
and travellers can disembark and
drive vid Langeland to Fdrde and
there join Bte. 27. Osen and the
beautiful Osfos are only 1 kil. distant
from Sveen, from which a road runs
also to Sanda and the Viksvand (see
Bte. 27).
Returning to FrsBBtoen and the
Sauesund, the str. makes a stoppage
at Ynnestad^ after which her course
is directed to an island with the
small port of
FL0B5« (156 kil.) (700 inhabi-
tants). After proceeding thence to
SvanS, the str. turns into the F&rdey
a fjord parallel with the Dalsfjord,
but wilder in character. The stats,
in it are: Svartevikholm, Tingnsss,
Eryik, and Nanstdal, whence the
Hyenfjord (40 kil.) can be reached.
Ascending to the head of the fjord,
the str. stops at
Fdrde ^ (185^ kil.) (See Bte. 27.)
B. The NoRDPJOBD. — On this voy-
age, when made specially to the Nord-
f jord, the strs. generally proceed from
Pr»st6en to Flor6, without stopping at
the places mentioned under A. From
Floro their course is inside large and
high islands and across the open
Frdi fjord ix)
Sftlvaag, on the S. side of Breman-
gerlandet island. The coast becomes
wild and grand, and the mtns. increase
in height. Islands and rocks, form-
ing a natural breakwater, enable the
traveller to admire it without any
nautical discomfort. Occasionally a
glimpse is caught of the Qjegnalunds-
&r<s, a large glacier that will be no-
ticed farther on. Among the out-
lying islands, that of Kmn, with its
old Ch, under the mtn.-side (pierced
by holes mentioned in the Sun-
nival legend), is the most remark-
able. On its northward course the
str. doubles the steep sides of Homelen
(3000 ft.) and, entering ther/Sfeates^rd^,
reaches, after passing several islands,
SaetrensBB (200 kil.), which is a
little out of the main course and is
situatedonFo^grsfi (2300 ft.) Moldden
lies between this stat. and the main-
land. Hence the course of the str. is
retraced for a short distance and,
becoming easterly, leads to Bugsund,
on an island at the mouth of the
great estuary commonly called the
Nordfjordf on the N. side of which a
stoppage is made at
Bryggen (208 kil.), whence a road
(20 kil») runs over the Mcmrstadeid
(2300 ft.) to Aaheim, on the Vami'
elvsfjord in Sondmdre.
[An interesting excursion can be made
across the mtns. between Mold&en and Bryg-
gen,"]
The fjord is next orossed to
Daviken. Bounding the small Svar-
tekaH mtn., the str. proceeds to
DombeBten, on the S. shore, and
thence over to
Staareim, in a pleasant-looking and
well-cultivated neighbourhood. Fol-
lowing the coast, the str. next stops
at
NauBtdal, on a branch of the fjord
that runs up to Nordf jordeidet, where
138
Route 30. — Bergen to Molde.
a road from Volden over BjGrkedals-
eidet comes down and runs on to
NordQordeidet. There are 2 an-
cient upright stones at Staareim. The
head and central point of the Nord-
fjord (here locally called the Eids-
fjord) is reached at
NordQordeidet^ (237 kil. from
Bergen). A road runs hence to the
Homindals lake (see Rte. 28), the
river issuing from which falls here
into the fjord. Returning from this
stat. the str. proceeds round Havnnces,
and, passing the mouth of the Aalfoten
fjords stops at
Alsvik, where a beautiful view is
obtained. To the S. is the wild and
grand Skeishestt part of the great
Qjegnalund f jeld, which carries on its
summit (5660 ft.) the huge
OjegnalundsbrsB, a glacier that has
so far been little explored. From it
rushes down to the fjord, in perpen-
dicular leaps, the 6ksendals-elv. On
a summer night the scenery is quite
weird : many waterfalls, although not
rich in volume, give a special interest
to it. The str. next stops at
HestexuBsdren, where the wild and
narrow Hyenfjord runs in to the S.
between mtns. which rise, in some
places almost perpendicularly, to
4430 ft. The Skjcerdah a wild glen,
can be visited from this stat. Bound-
ing KvitencRSi the interesting Qloppe-
fjord is next entered. Among the
mtns. that border it on the W., to a
height in some cases of 4835 ft., are
the Skeishestt the Bysvasshomt and
the Eikenehest. At its head is
Sandene (260 kil.), whence a road
runs to Breum (Breaheim) and Be
(see Bte. 27), in connection with a
road to the next stat.,
Bysfjaeren. Hence the mtns. be-
come lower (a maximum of 3600
ft.), and the scenery and its colour-
ing more pleasant. Coasting along
the wooded N. side of the fjord,
past farms perched on considerable
heights, the str. crosses to
Utviken * ( Vcarlo) (267 kil.) (see
Bte. 27). Thence it proceeds to
Indyiken, where a valley leads up
to the CecUiekrone (5820 ft.) The
shores of the fjord are here exceed-
ingly pretty, the hanging birches, es-
pecially numerous, adding greatly to
the beauty of the scenery. The str.
next crosses to
Faleide^ (275 kil.) (see Bte. 28),
and then, rounding the HestGra, to
Visnaes 1 Stryn« (280 kil.) (see
Bte. 28 for Excursions and Comntu-
fdcations). The Kirkenibba can be
ascended hence (7 hrs.), and the Gad-
brandsdal and the Jostedal reached
over the mtns. Olden and Loen are
sometimes touched at before proceed-
ing to VisnsBs. Steering up the fjord,
which is decked with the hanging
birch, the str. stops at
Oldoren (289 kil.), and then Lobren.
At the head of the fjord are the 3
interesting glacier-valleys of Stryn,
Loen, and Olden, ^ all within reach
of the uppermost stat. (see Bte.
27). The enterprising explorer is re-
commended to consult Prof. Nielsen's
Beisehaandbog for details.
EOUTB 30.
BEBGEN TO MOLDE, vid AALEStTND.
(By Str.)
[TMb iB a section of the great ooasting-
ronte between Bergen and Ttondhjem, and
the communications on it are ahnost daily
from Bergen by large mail strs. or smaller
vessels, of wliich some are for local service.
The distances are : To AcUesund 312 klL (time
24 hrs. ; fare 16.80 kr.) ; from Aalesund to
Moldey 89 kil. (time 6 hrs. ; fare 3.60 kr.) Be-
tween Bergen and Trondhjem the distance is
594 kil. (time 48 hrs. ; fare 32 kr.) Retnm
tickets are issued on the mail strs., and -re-
ductions made in the case of families. (Con-
sult local time-tables and advertisements.)]
The first part of the voyage coin-
cides with the course taken by the
Route 30. — 8<jetren<B8 ; Aalemnd.
139
sirs, that proceed to the Sogne^ SOndy
and Nord fjords, described in the
routes immediately preceding. The
larger strs., however, when bound
for Trondhjem, do not ascend the
inner fjords, and altogether the stop-
ping stats, are liable to much varia-
tion. After passing Floro and the
Stahhene lighthouse, the main and
the local fjord routes diverge at
SsBtrenaes (Moldobn) (200 kil. ;
about 9 hrs. from Bergen) (see Bte.
26). Hence the course is northwards,
between the great VacigsG island and
the mainland, and then over the open
Ulsvaagt to the rt. of which will be
seen the high coast of Statland. The
8tr. puts in sometimes at Statt on the
long promontory of Statland^ which
juts out into the Atlantic, and at the
extreme points of which are Kjcbt-
ringen (1647 ft. high) and Staalet
Thence the VanneJ/vs estuary (Vann-
elvsgabet, in which are the islands
of Kvamsd and RUW) is crossed,
and one of two courses taken — either
past Scmda and Flaavcer lighthouse,
along the coast of OurskG and the
Hareidland, and inside Rundd (from
which a mole runs out to Hogsten
light) ; or, inside the islands that lie
off the coast of the mainland. In
the latter casis stoppages ,, are made
at LarsnsBB, Volden, and Orstenvik,
before joining the common course in
the Bredsund to
AaleBund^ (312 kil.) This very
picturesquely situated town (pop.
8415) is the centre of the fish trade
of the Sondmore district, and has a
considerable trade with the Mediter-
ranean, chiefly in dried cod-fish. It
is built up and down small hills and
around inlets. The views from it of
the distant Langfjeld range on the
S.E. are exceedingly grand. The
- harbour is admirably sheltered, par-
ticularly the inner one, which is
quite secure in all weathers. A
charming view is obtained by ascend-
ing from Kipperviken (in the E. part
of the town) a path that leads to the
Aalesundsaksla. If the Aksla ridge
be followed, another fine view will be
enjoyed from a spot marked by a
vane. On the N. side of it is a path,
partly cut in steps, that leads to the
new churchyard. There is a Pa/rk
at the foot of the Aksla.
The neighbouring country abounds
in historical associations connected
with the ancient history of Norway
and her Vikings, and the legends are
numerous and interesting.
A little to the S. of Aalesund was
the Borg, or castle, of Oangr Hrolf,
or Bollo the Walker, a name he ac-
quired because he was so tall and
robust that no Norwegian horse could
carry him. He was the conqueror
and founder of the Duchy of Nor-
mandy, and ancestor of our William
the Conqueror.
[Excursions.— 1. To Borgund oh. on the
road to Sbholt. There was a town here in the
middle ages.
2. To GiBko, a small island 8 kil. W. of
Aalesund, anciently the property of one of
the most poweifol families in Norway, now
extinct. The Ch. is of a species of marble,
whitewashed. ** Yalborg and Aksel's grave '*
is shown, and the view henoc of theSbndmbre
mtns. is very fine. The island can be reached
by boat in \\ hr.
3. To VaUerS, in 1 hr., by boat. Tho
^ongtheller cave is visited here.
4. Another oave,B.3n8tadhalen, is on LepsS
island, a little way N., the fishermen of which
saved in 1886 a Scotchwoman who came
across the Atlantic to this neighbourhood in
a fishing-smack which had been driven for-
ward by a sudden breeze while the master
and crew were out in the boat.]
[CtomcuNiCATiONB. — Local strs. mn hence
to Molde in 6 hrs. For visits to the Indre
Sdndmifret and the Oeiranger and IQdrend
fjtn'ds, see next Boutes.]
From Aalesund the course is to-
wards the Haram group of islands,
Valderhaug and the Lepsd islands
being on the 1. Splendid views of
mtns. on the mainland. Drdnen and
Mien islands will be passed, and the
Bekdalhest seen. The Moldefjord
will next be entered, the heights of
Otterben remaining to the 1. ; while
to the rt. open the Tcmvrefjord^ with
its fine peaks, the Tresfjord, and,
farther in, iAxQRomsdal and Eikisdal
mtns., the Troldtindemej the Boms-
dahhomt the Venget4/ndemef the
Ojurat Aagottindf and Skjorta
(Evitna). The seaward approach to
140
Route 80. — Bergen to Molde.
Molde is of striking beaaty, afford-
ing as it does a perspective, to the S.,
of the whole of the Sdndmore-Bems-
dal mtn.-chain.
MOLDE » (378 kil., by the direct
route, from Bergen). Brit. Vice'
Consul, Built upon a promontory
on the N. side of the Molde Qovd,
the town (pop. 1630), now the centre
of the tourist traffic in this part of
Norway (with a trade in fish), con-
sists of one long straggling street
along the shores of the fjord, with
several handsome villas in the neigh-
bourhood.
Its situation is almost finer than
that of any other Norwegian town.
It is the panorama of the grand min.-
chain with its high pe£&s, already
mentioned, that imparts so special a
beauty to the position of Molde, par-
ticularly in the first part of summer,
before all the snow has melted on the
mtn. sides and tops. The eastern-
most mtn.-summit has an elevation
of about 6560 ft., while the western-
most is only half that height. Thus,
sheltered from the N. and protected
also from the approach of the raw
air of the Atlantic, Molde has a
richness of vegetation, in the matter
of trees, flowers, and fruit, that sur-
prises the traveller wheh he gets so
farN.
A fine view is obtained from the
large wooden Lejper Hospitalt a con-
spicuous building to the W.; also
from the Ch, which stands on an
elevation. To the W. of the latter
is the Dahl Villa, surrounded by a
beautiful garden {Dahls Have), from
which visitors can aiscend in |
hr. to the Vane {Varden^ on title
sununit of the Vardehei (1343 ft.)
There is a magnificent view hence
of fjord and fjeld. If time should
not admit of this walk (about 2 hrs.
there and back), the Raknashaug,
close to Dahls Have, should be
visited (in about f hr, there and
back from the main street) . Beautiful
view thence. The Vardehei (Varden)
can be ascended from the back ck
it. The top of Tmtm (about 2950 ft.)
can be climbed from the E. part of
the town in 3 hrs. Very attractive
is the walk along the Fannestrand, a
beautiful avenue running about 5 kil.
along the edge of the fjord, past many
pretty villas (including the Buen
Betiro, with a well laid-out park).
[Dritks.— A pleasant drive can be taken
along the Fannestrand to Strande (9 kiL>,
Eide (13 kiL), where there is an Inn^ and to
Furset (9 kH.), where there is also an Inn for
thoee who would like to Jlsh in the neigrh-
booring lakes, dMJ. A fine view is obtained at
Funet sater^ ascended from Eide. Another,
THuten top (3250 ft) can be easily climbed from
Furset, 4 kil. beyond which is Bmtte^fjordS'
Sren, whence stra. run sefreral times a week.
(in 2 hrs.) to Ghristiansund. Many other
drives can be taken. They will be indicated
at the hotels, where oarrlages and carrioles
are procurable.
The SBA.-FISHING — $ei (pollock), c<m2, and had-
dock — is very good among the islands opposite
the town. Native tackle must be procured,
especially for catohixig m< in 30 tms. of
water, with a hook baited with a piece of fish-
skin. These fish run up to 8 and 10 lbs.,
and the labour of hauling them is somewhat
trying, especially to hands unuaed to ziKigh
work. GkxMl baskets of smaller fish can alwaya-
be made with comfort in shallower water.
A pUk line can then be used with gresif
effect. The bait of this consiista of a piect
of bright zinc shaped like a fish, with 2
barbed projecting hooks that give the " pilk **
an anchor-like form. The fiffffering of this
instnuBeDt imparts a fish-like motion to the
" pUk," which the voracious ood, haddock^ and
iei take for their prey. Travellers makmg a
long coasting voyage should, if fond of sea-
fishing, supply tlMmflelves with native ** pilk-
ing" lines (.to be found in any Norwegian
seaport) for use at the stopping-places of the
strs. The regular Norwegian tourist strs.,
especially those that run to the K. Gape, in
the mxdnight-suB season^ aae always provided
with such lines, but they are too heavy and
rough to be used in the smaller depths of
luurboura
CoMMUiriCJiTiONS.— Molde is the starting-
point for the grand overland route through
Biomsdal and Gudbrandsdal to Chrlstiania.
(See Bte. 32 for an ezeursion to the Bomsdal
and for the reminder of the journey to
Christiania, Bte. 13.— Consult time-taUea and
local notices respecting strs. up and down the
coast and to the neighbouring' fjords.)^
(See the concluding Routes in this seotiioa
for journal* and voyages from Molde).]
Route 31. — Aalesimd to the Irmer Sondmore Fjords, 141
BOUTE 81.
AAUBSBIID TO THB INHSB 80NBM0BE
rJOBDfl, BOHOLT, STI/TB, MABAAK
(mebok), and HXLLESYLT.
[Oonsalt time-tables and local notices for
Bauings of strs. (almost daily). The strs. of
yachting companies, and spe^al tourist strs.,
frequently visit the Oeiranger Qord. Distance
to HelletyU 82 kU. ; 12^ hrs. ; 4.80 kr. ' Pro-
visioM should be taken when trareUing by
Imid in the S5ndm8re district, except when
proceeding to a place where a hotel is men-
tioned in the Index."]
The Storfford is entered between
? HareidUmdet and Siden islands. To
the S. is a fine view of high mtns.,
among whieh is seen the McuddlgkleVt
a peonliar rook-fissure. Steering E.
from Sulen, the splendid Ejdrend-
fjord opens out with a direction al-
most S. To the rt. of the high mtns.
is the JGnshom (4716 ft.), in the
centre tiie Hommdalsrok, and to the
1. the Jagta (5220 ft.) with a flat
glacier.
[There is special str. communication several
times a week, in 6^^ hrs., between Aalesnnd
and Bjerke^ at the head of the mdrendfjordy
one of the finest and most interesting fjords
on theW. coast, now much visited. The mtns.
rise with mnoh grandeur in it. The E. shore
is girt by precipitous mtu.-sides, crowned by
ragged peaks. The str. puts in at Oie^ in the
imposing Norangfjfyrd (Kte. 28), and, return-
ing, thence goes round the Storhergnau and
ascends the main Qord, stopping first at Vid-
dal and lastly at Bjerkk.* Here a splendid
view is obtained of the Bjerkehorn (4446 ft.)
and the Tuuenut (4200 ft.)]
From the mouth of the V^gsvfnd
the str. steers in to
Aure « (2J hrs.), at the mouth of
the Sokelvfjord. View up the Vel-
Uddly with its high mtns. and gla-
ciers. The solitary Strihnshom (3245
ft.) rises in it. Betuming to the
Storfjord, the course is towards its
N. wooded shore, and, entering the
SolnGrvik, the s^. makes a stoppage
off the flat, but wooded
Langskibso, where passes the road
(38 kil.) from Aalesund to Sdholt.
Skodje ch. and its pretty sur-
r9undings are a little inland to the 1.
Orskog ch, is then right ahead, the
Eawataddal and SOvikdal on the S.
side of the fjord, and in ^ hr.
from Langskibso the str. runs in, by
a charming approach up a small bay,
to
ftOEOLT. 39e This is a central point
for the tourist traffic in .Sondmdre,
and also a very attractive and beauti-
fully situated place. Above the Ch.
that stands on a wooded cape rises
the Laupao' (4800 ft.) The view W.
of the fjord is also beautiful, the best
panorama, however, being obtained
from a height that can be climbed in
1^ hr. The views from Haukaas^
Steenholt, LUt and Nyh&e are all
within an easy distance. A walk of
4 or 5 kil. along the charming road
that leads to Aalesund should be
taken.
Wishing. — There is good trout-fLsh-
ing in the neighbouring lakes of
Brusdal (6^ kil.) and Storsater (16
kil.)
Shooting,— Byper are abundant on
the Orskog fjeid,
[Land CoMBfUNicATiONS.— 1. A road runs
to Aalemnd through highly enjoyable scenery.
The stats, are Flaate(W kil.) ; Rdtet (13 kil.) ;
Aalesund (12 Ml.) Between the 2 latter is
Borgund (see previous Route).
2. The road to Ve$tnce» (Molde fjord) is
muoh used in connection with the steamship
routes, being an important link of the over-
land routes bKBtween Bergen and the Norden-
fjeldske disbdct.
The stats, are : Ellingigaard (15 kil.), and
then along the pretty Treifjord to Vestnoe^
(11 kil.), a beautifully situated hamlet near
the Moldefjord^ with almost daily strs. to
Molde and Vc^lungmcB*. Extra trips fre-
quently made on Sun. by a steam-launch of
the Hotel at Molde. If no str. be available,
Molde can be reached by boat in about 3
hrs. (12 kil.)]
From Sdholt the str. proceeds
S., stopping either at Aamdam or
142 Route 31. — AaUswnd to the Inner Sondmore Fjords,
VagBvik, close by. A road runs to
both places from Soholt. Hence the
course is up the Skotsfjordy which
runs S. out of the Storf jord. To the
rt. will be seen the SkotshalSi with
Skotet farm perched on the top of it.
After rounding a cape, the str. stops
(in about 5 hrs. from Aalesund) at
Stordalen. Opposite Rove (Stor-
dalen) is a noteworthy cavern {** Li-
mur*s cave ") that has not been pene-
trated by any traveller beyond the
100 paces made in it by the famous
Bishop Pontopiddan, in the 18th
cent. The natives have a prejudice
against going into it. The salmon
and irout fishing in the StordcU river
is very good. Quarters good at Hove,
whence there is a good carriage-road
to Overaa (16 kil.) From the latter
place Sylte is 9 kil., RelUngen 9 kil.,
and Ytterdal 7 kil., by boat.
The str. next passes a group of
farms to the 1. called Djupdalent of
which the sceter will be seen still
higher up. Beyond is a cliff, of
which a large piece fell, 1731, into
the fjord and destroyed the oh. at
Stranden, replaced since by the Ch,
and Manse that will be seen plea-
santly surrounded. A mtn.-path
runs hence over the Ljdfjeld. After
crossing the Sunnelvsfjord, the Nor-
dalsfjord is entered* Several farms
will be seen at a great elevation. On
the S. side of this branch will be
passed Ytredal and BelUngen. Be-
hind the former the Qevranger mtns.
open out. Steering next along the
N. shore of the fjord, with the mouth
of the Tafjord to the rt., the mtn.
called Syltendkken will be sighted.
On its face is a geological freak, to
which the name of SU Olafs Orm
(" serpent ") has been given, from the
serpent-like form of a vein of light
quaxtz that runs through the dark
mass of the rock. It must be seen at
a certain distance or the illusion will
be imperfect. The Valdai now opens
out more and more, and after going
round a promontory, on which are
several farms, Sylte chapel will be
seen in the distance, with Kross-
brceken mtn. in the background. In
about 7^ hrs. from Aalesund the str.
stops in the Nordalsfjord at
STLTE. ^ This is a place of grow-
ing resort, especially as a starting-
point for a journey through Valdalen
to Romsdalen, There are also mtn.-
tracks which are much frequented.
The Tafjord, hitherto but little ex-
plored, is well worthy of attention
for its wild grandeur, which is per-
haps superior even to that of the
Geiranger fjord.
[Excursions.— 1. The MuldaJfo$. A boat
must betaken to (12 klL) KolcUu, as the str.
does not ascend the Tafjord (a branch of the
Nordalsfjord), and fairly good quarters are
obtainable there. The fjord itself, wild and
mag^floent, is alone worth seeing, one of its
mtns. (the Storfjeld) haying a height of
6900 ft. Theh&aeoi the Afulda^foSy reached
from Muldal by a road constructed by the
local tourist association, is the largest water-
fall in SSndmffre (490 ft.), and one of the most
interesting in Norway. The excursion win
occupy about 6 hrs.
Stueflaaten, in Oudbrandsdal, can easily be
reached from Muldal by a mtn.-path in about
9 hrs.
2. Prom the hamlet of TaQprd (12 kiL by
water) a bridle-path runs to 09erste-RSddal^
where there are several waterfalls, while the
mtns. in some cases reach a height of about
6500 ft.
8. A bridle-path (15 kil.) leads from the
same hamlet to KalunuBter, whence in 6 hrs.
it is easy to reach Ghrjotli, on the road between
Gudbrandsdal and the Geiranger fjord.
There is good trttut-fUhing in the neigh-
bourhood of the Tafjord, good quarters for
the purpose being obtainable, more especially
at a farm about 12 kiL above Tafjord.
4. The RofMdca vift Valdalen. There is a
good carriage-road from Sylte up the Valdai
and Langdai to Fremre-Ordnning (about 21
kil.), where the stat. is well kept. A guide
is required for a tramp over the mtns. to Nees
or Veblungsnces. The talmon and trout flth-
ing is good in Yaldalen.]
From Sylte the str. crosses the
Dalsfjord to Bellingen, above which
is a mtn.-top locally called 8t Olafs
Sniishom ("snuff -horn"). The parish
ch. will be seen here at the head of
the Norddal. Swinging round a
cape, of which the rocks exhibit re-
markable cleavages, the str. stops at
Ytredal (about 8 hrs. from Aale-
sund).
[There is a mtn.-path hence to Orande and
Maraak (about 6 hrs.) (see Maraak).]
The Nordalsfjord is left after going
Route SI. — Geircmger Fjord ; Maraak.
143
round Skrednahken promontory and
the Sunnelvsfjord entered. Several
farms on either shore. Soon the
head of the Geiranger fjord comes in
view, and in an hour the str. on some
voyages stops (on the 1.) at
Lnndenses, at the mouth of the Oei-
ranger fjord. This is the most in-
teresting of the Sdndmdre fjords, and
although the grandeur of its mtn.-
masses is not equal to that of the
Ncerd/jordt yet the forms of its preci-
pices are bolder. In many places
these make a sheer perpendicular
plunge down to the dark surface of
the water, from a height of about
6580 ft. The traveller cannot fail to
be deeply impressed by the majestic
might displayed in this fjord by
nature. Numerous waterfalls, seem-
ing in cloudy weather to fall from the
skies, and which in sunshine lave
the rock-walls with gauzy spray, re-
lieve the awe-inspiring sternness of
the scene.
The first small farm (1.) is Matvik,
opposite which is one of the worst
places for the dangerous and destruc-
tive avalanches of snow to which
this fjord is much subjected in winter.
Many farms will be seen perched up
on apparently inaccessible ledges,
sometimes at a height of 2000 ft.
above the water, and communicating
with the outer world by a goat-track
leading to the boat-house usually
seen below. Children and cattle
are frequently kept tethered on such
farms, the principal resource of
which is the bree<fing of sheep for
export, chiefly to Great Britain. One
of the first mtn.-tops seen in the
fjord is (1.) the Nokkmibba (4370 ft.)
with the Stabnrsfonfti or snow-fields.
Beyond, on the same side, is the
sharp-pointed Lysv/mibba, while op-
posite rises majestically the Lang-
flaafjeld, which in winter sends snow-
avalanches down into the middle of the
fjord. On the summit of the Hdrve-
dragsfjeld a rock will be pointed out
as St. Olafs KjodlaaVj or the ham
of dried mutton with which he was
so dissatisfied that he cast it away to
the spot where it subsequently be-
came petrified. St. Olaf reigns su-
preme over all the traditions in
Sondmore. To the 1. will next be
passed the Knivaflcuafossene, water-
falls that vary much in volume, and
to which a modern traveller, who saw
only 7 of them, has given the
name of the " Seven Sisters." Occa-
sionally, their number increases to
9, whUe, if the Knivselvt out of
which they rise, is not in much
volume, only 4 silvery streams will
be seen falling down the perpen-
dicular cliff. Above them, the
Qjeitfjeldtind rises to a height of
5150 ft., the Qjeitlandegg, beyond,
being only about 350 ft. lower. Skage-
flaaen farm will then be seen perched
on a seemingly inaccessible site, 1600
ft. above the level of the fjord. The
Skageflaafos (or Qjeitfos) is near the
farm, which can be reached by a
very steep and dizzy path. The
splendid Prcekestol (pulpit) mtn. is
seen before the head of the fjord,
with the stupendous HoUmbba^
comes in view. The str. now stops
at
MABAAK^ (Mbbok). (Compare
Bte. 28.)
\_Orjotliy on the way to Gudbrandadal, can
be reached hence by a road (40| kil.) in con-
struction (1892). A posting-stat. will be
established at Langevand.']
[ExoimsiONS. — 1. Numerous conveyances
await the str. to take passengers up the new
road to FlydaZsdjupet^ a splendid gorge, or as
far as OplcenikedaifS^iBxm.m very picturesque
scenery.
2. At about 16 kil. from Maraak, on the
Juvandy is a Tourist-htU (Juvashytten, where
excursionists can dine or sleep (2 beds for 4
persons). It is a stiff walk of 5 'hrs. up, and
3i to 4 hrs. down. Oladers surround it.
3. The Stonoeterfos (2067 ft.) can be reached
in about IJ hr. with a guide (about 2 kr.)
Prom it is a splendid view of the mtns. around
the fjord, particularly of the SacUhorn (6890
ft.) There is also a pretty view from the
StorSiray 6 min. walk above Maraak.
4. The mtn.-path to Ytredal (see above)
runs along the fjord from Maraak for 3 kil.
to Grande (a steep ascent of 40 min.), whence
there is a charming view of the fjord. From
Grande a good horse-track leads to Indre Eide,
on a mtn.-lake, with the interesting peaks
of the Eidshom on the 1., and the Skaaren to
the rt. Lower down, towards the fjord, is
the great Monshorn (Grjofa). A carriole can
be used from Indre Eide to Ytredal.
144
BotUe 32. — Molds to Veblungsnces,
6. When no str. is available, HeUetylt can
be reached by boat in about 4 hrs., passing
magnificent scenery.]
The strs. regularly, on this route,
return from Maraak down the Gei-
ranger fjord, and in about 1^ hr.
deposit passengers at the end of the
Sunnelvsf jord, viz. at
HELLSSYLT. « (See Bte. 28.)
ROUTE 82.
MOLDS TO YEBLnNosNJss (by str.)
AMD UP BOMSDAiiEN (by road).
[Strs. in 2| to 5 hrs., according to direct-
ness of route. Fare2kr. (Ck)usult local time-
tables and notices.)]
1. To VEBLXmaSMJSS.
(By str.)
Grossing the Molde fjord, the str.
reaches in 1 hr. VestxisBS, whence an
£. direction is taken. To the N. is
the high Scekken island, where King
Haakon fell in 1162. The stopping-
places axe variable, but those whi^
axe more or less general will be men-
tioned.
In the Tresfjord, QjermnmdncBS is
touched at, and sometimes Sylte
(Bte. 31) at the head of that
fjord, and Vofige in the Borisdal
fjord. From Norvikt the next stat.,
a road runs to Eid parish ch. and
the Bddvenfjard, On the rt., a stop-
page is made at Void, where a pretty
valley opens out. A road runs hence
to Vik in the Indfjord^ which is
entered next. In it will be seen to
the N. the Isterdalen mtns., whence,
through a gorge, the Valdai can be
reached by a path.
Beyond, the Skottehammer, easily
recognised by its peculiar form, 'will
be passed to the 1., while to the rt.
will be the Runebergt on the precipi-
tous side of which is a Bunic inscrip-
tion. The Skottehamimer or Skat-
kleven (" the Scot's clifE ") is supposed
to have obtained that name from tlie
disembarkation, in the immediate
vicinity, of the Scottish expedition
(so-called Sinclair's Expedition) in
1612. A monument to the peasant,
to whom popular legends attribute
the destruction of the Scots by lead-
ing them into an ambush, will be
seen from the str. on approaching
Veblungsnaes. The Norwegian legen-
dary account of this expedition, essen-
tially untrue, will be found reduced
to historical prose in Bte. 12.
Some of the strs. proceed to Ncbs^ •)(
and then return (when not steering
direct for Sten^ at the head of the
Isfjord) to
VEBLTJN6SNJES. i( The Rauma
river falls here into the JRomsdals-
fjordy close to the hamlet.
[Fiihing (salmon) in the Raunui, in the
fjord (sea-trout), and in the neighbouring
mtn.-lakes (trout ), good. Apply at the hoteL]
This is a lovely spot in full view
of the Bomsdalshomy and excellent
headquarters for fishing^ duck-shootr
ing^ mtn.-climbing, sketching, &c.,
and for excursions up the splendid
Bomsdal and other valleys.
K8B8 ^ (Aandalsn^s) is situated
in splendid scenery, opposite Veb-
ltmgsncB8t N. of the embouchure of
the Bauma. The road to YeblungsnsBs
turns to the rt., over a bridge spanning
the Bauma, and is indicated by a
sign-post. For a lengthened stay,
this place is preferable to Yeblungs-
nsBS, as it lies out of the bustle and
traffic of the latter, and away from
its noisy camp of military exercise.
Anglican ch. service is held here
during the tourist season.
[ExcuBfiiOKS.— 1. A charming trip can be
made hence to Kavlisceter (about 11 kil. there
and back), and another to Lereimskleven^ in
half a day. On the latter excursion a boat is
Route S2. — Rorgjem; Flatmavk; Ormrnn. 146
taken to ^hopvtt,.whexui9 a ooayegFanee oaa^
be used to Ijereimskleven and back. The
splendid Waterfcdl at the upper end of the
Itdal sboold not be n^lected. It can be
approached in a carriole within about fi kil.,
and it is best seen from the rt. bank of the
river.
FUhing.—QrOodi ^rouZ-fishing obtainable in
a lake about 8 kil. distant.
Shooting.— l^loA whole of the neighbouring
country lUffords good ptarmigan-shooting and
reindeer - stalking. Apply locally. Good
huntsmen available.]
2. VEBLXTNOSNiBS (OB NiES) UP THE
BOMSDAL.
[Distance from Vehlungsnoes to Stu^aaten
48 kiL ; thence to Dombaas in Gudbrandsdal
(on the high-road between Christiania and
Trondhjem) 62 ML The stats, are all « fast,"
and the posting-rate 15 o. per kil. Bennett's
carriages and carrioles, at a small extra
cliarge, recommended. A dil, runs between
Veblungsnaes and Lillehammer (Rte. 12).]
At about 3 Ml. from Veblungsnffis,
at a bridge, the road from Nses (2 kil.)
joins the great posting-route through
the Bomsdal and Gudbrandsdal
valleys. Driving thence along the
rt. bank of the Bauma in pleasant
wooded scenery, henmied in by lofty
hills, the beautiful site of the old
Aak hotel (now the property and
summer residence of an English gen-
tleman, who also owns the salmon-
fishing at this part) will be passed to
the 1. The Isterdal, with the mtn.-
tops of ('W.)Bispen {"the bishop")
and (E.) Kongen and Dronningen
("the king" and "the queen "), (6606
ft.), opens to the rt. At Fiva farm,
which stands in a birch-plantation
(4 kil. from the next stat.), the valley
is decked with green fields, in lively
contrast with the dark mtns. The
Vengetind&r, picturesque but scarcely
visible here, rise on the E. to a
height of 6935 ft., and next to them,
in grand dominion, is the huge Boms-
DALSHOBN (6104 ft.)
[Its ascent, first made in 1827, has been
accomplished 3 or 4 times in recent years,
and once (in 1888) by an intrepid English
lady. With field-glasses, 3 cairns are dis-
cernible on the summit. With a good guide
the ascent (more dangerous than that of the
Matterhom, and impossible after a snowfall)
can be accomplish^ from the W. ^de in 1
day. Experienced Alpine climbers can more
[Norway — ^vi. 92.]
easily reach the summits of the Vengetinder
and Mj^nir. The latter is one of the steepest
mtns. in Europe, according to Mr. Slingsby,
who performed the feat of climbing it from
Indre Dale^ a drive of 3 hrs. from iVie*.]
The Troldtindeme ("troll peaks")
rise to 6010 ft. on the W. side of the
valley. The highest of them can be
climbed by way of the small glacier
seen before reaching Aak. Pieces of
rock, large and small, are apt to faJl
from the Bomsdalshorn into the
valley, in which patches of snow are
frequently seen in summer. The nar-
rowest part of the gorge is entered
before reaching the next stat. It
seems to afford room enough only
for the turbulent river. Travellers
will be impressed by the shadows
cast over the glen by the higher
peaks of the Troldtindeme on
reaching
Horgj em (15 kil. from Veblungsnaes) .
Beyond this stat., in the vicinity
of the high Mongejura (4230 ft.),
close to Monge farm, is (1.) the pictur-
esque MongefoSi which descends from
that mtn. A number of small rivers
and rivulets pour their waters, in
beautiful cascades and rapids, into the
Bauma, confined here between rocky
walls 2000 to 3000 ft. high. Huge
blocks of rock (some of which rolled
down in 1885) will be passed, and
with the Kors (Cross) c^., of which
the steeple is visible to the 1., the end
of the stage is reached, amidst grand
surroundings, at
Flatmark (12 kil.) A good stat.
in a smiUng part of the valley, with a
mtn. 3760 ft. high facing it. Except
in dry seasons, water will be seen run-
ning down the mtn.-aides in several
places. The Styggefonnfos will be
noticed on the 1., and beyond it the
Oravefos and the Skogafos ; while to
the rt. is the high (and in early sum-
mer beautiful) Wntefos, On a steep
ascent, the picturesque Vcermefos
(about 1000 ft. high) will be passed
on the rt. before reaching
Ormeim (10 kil., pay for 11). Good
quarters. The last-mentioned water-
fall will be seen from a balcony at
this stat.
146
Route 32. — Molde to Vehlungmws.
ri. With a guide, an ascent can be made
here, even by ladies (in about 8 hra. there
and back), of Storhatten (5937 ft.), and a fine
view obtained. Nearly | of this is on horse-
back. After crossing the Rauma, a track
leads to the U, by the side of the Vwrmefos.
2. A. mtn.-path leads to Sylte in Valdalen
(about 12 hrs.) , ^ ^
3. Pedestrians can also take a track across
the mtns. (in 6-8 hrs.) to Utigaard and
Reiten* on the Eiki$dql vand, on which a small
str. plies (2 hrs.) to Overaas, at the N. end of
the lake (tolerable quarters). Thence a road
leads to Mste on the Eritfjord (8 kil.), from
which strs. run to Molde in 6 hrs.]
Although most tourists return to
Nffis or VeblungsnaBS from this end of
the Romsdal, another stage is highly
recommended to those who have suffi-
cient time at their disposal. The
valley remains grand in character on
ascending it. At about 2 kil. from
Ormeim a finger-post indicates the
way, only a few paces to the rt., to
the pretty Slettafos, which travellers
should see. Beyond, on the splendid
road along the bank of the Bauma, is
the Haukaaen waterfall (l.)» while
farther on is another, near Brudehu-
len. Hence the valley becomes more
narrow and wild up to the point where
the UlvacL bifurcates and falls as a fos
into the Rauma. By numerous wind-
ings blasted out of the rock the grand
Bjdmeklev ("bear's ravine"), form-
ing the boundary between Bomsdalen
and Gudbrandsdalen, is ascended to
Stueflaaten (10 kil., pay for 11),
the first Stat, in Gudbrandsdalen
(2050 ft.) Good quarters.
Fishing.— There is good trotU-tLshing in the
OlvcM river, which falls into the Rauma not
far from the stat. (about i hr. walk) through
a picturesque valley, and forming several
cascades. The fish run large.
View.—Mne from Toppen (2 hrs.)
From Stueflaaten, the road descends
gradually from about 1000 ft. After
crossing a heath (3 kil.), the BaanaaS'
hoi will be seen to the rt. Behind it the
Ulvaadal opens out in grand scenery.
At a place called EinabUj St. Olaf is
said by sagas to have rested on his
flight from Valdalen. A MonoUth
close to the road is the remnant of an
ancient stone cross. With the Rauma
always to the rt., some farms wiU be
passed at Bad and an ascent made
to
Molmen (13 kil.) Good stat., but
not pretty ; alt. 1675 ft. LesjoksTcogens
ch> close by.
lFi$hing,~The best trout- fishing in Gud-
brandsdalen available at this stat. for about
an Eng. mile down the river, and in ttie Z^s-
jaskogens vand. The same sport can be liad
in Lake AursjG (6-7 hrs. walk). Boats can
be hired there and fair accommodation pro-
cured at the Alfsceter. Shooting good. Xliis
can be obtained from the keeper of the stat.
Excursions.— 1. The GrSt\fos, a small but
beautiful waterfall, is within i an hr. walk:.
2. The Storhb (about 6230 ft.), N. of the
stat., can be reached in a few hours. An
ascent of about 1000 ft. above the forest zone
affords views of many peaks, all more than
6000 ft. high.
3. A mtn.-path through the Grtjnaelv valley
leads to Skiaker {Aanstad stat.) in about 14
hrs, (The track from Holsei stat. over Lor-
dalen is, however, prefecable.) The journey is
generally broken at Nysoeter (Storsaater) (7
hrs.), and Skiaker (Rte. 12) reached the next
day. The top of the Digervarden (ascended in .
1 hr.) affords a splendid view of the Jotunheim
(Rte. 11) and Rondane mtns.]
Soon after leaving Molmen the
source of the Bauma in the Lesja-
skogens vand is reached, the road
running along the shore of that
lake, from the E. end of which the
Laagen river issues, and where a
halt will be made at the stat. of
Lesjavserk (12 kil.), which is more
pleasantly situated (a little to the
rt. of the new road) than the one
just left. Very good roomy quarters,
the hangings in the sitting-room
being of the period when the house
was built (1736). An iron-mine was
worked here from 1650 to 1812. The
Lesjaskogens vand is remarkable as
the source of 2 rivers — the Bauma,
flowing to the N.W., and the Laagen
(pron. L6gan) to the S.E.
Fishing. — Both trout and grayling can be
caught in the lake from a boat, and the
trout-fishing is also good in adjacent mtn.-
lakes.
Shooting, — Good headquarters for reindeer-
stalking. Experienced hunters, with dogs,
procurable.
Driving first through a wood, and
then, on a sandy road, over a heath,
Rouie SB.^-^Molde to ^ondhjeiAi
w
the Lardal will open to the rt., and
after passmg a few farms and wooden
hoar£ngs to arrest snow-drifts, a
Valley will be descended to
HoLset (12 kil.) Very good and
cheap quarters.
[A mtn.-road runs off to Bkiaker (meDr
tioned above under Mblmen), It is gradu-
ally being made to Nyiceter.
Shooting good ; huntsman and reindeer-
dog procurable at the stat.]
The road continues of little inter-
est. It enters a flat valley, once
occupied by the Lesjavand (now
drained), and passes Lesja eh., beyond
which 2 peaks of the Bondane mtns.
are seen to the E. At Hattrem
strikes off the branch road that leads
from the next stat. to Vaage, through
Slaadalen. A zigzag descent brings
the traveller to
Holaker (15 kil.) Very superior
and comfortable stat.
ITrotU-flahing and reindeer-shooting avail-
able.
A hranch road runs to Vaage (about 35 kil.)
A carriole can, if necessary, be used on it.
Pedestrians will take about 10 hrs.
Another branch road runs to the valleys
of the Jora, On Aur^6 are the Alficetre^
with a special house for travellers, whence
8andvasladgen sceter can be reached in about
8 hrs. From the Aursjo a road leads vid
the Torbuvand (2900 ft.), where there are
fishermen's huts, to Oksendalen. It is neces-
sary to have a horse for fording streams.
Ilafsaas in Orifvedalen can be reached from
the Jora in 1 day. There is a carriageable
road from Ojffra in Sundalen.]
With the Laagen to the rt., a
rapid descent brings the traveller to
JoramOy where a stone bridge spans
the Joray which rises in the vicinity
of SnehsBtta (Bte. 13). Long zigzags
through a forest terminate the
stage at
Dombaas (12 kil.) (See Bte. 13 for
description and roads to Trondhjem
and Christiania.)
EOUTE 83.
MOLDS TO TBONDBJEM, THROUGH
N0BDM5rE and the OBKBDAIi.
(By road.)
[Interrupted by several beautiful fjordSi
this road affords the means of visiting the
inner parts of the interesting Nordmdre dis-
trict (hitherto not much explored by tourists),
the fine Surendal and Orkedcd valleys, and
many pretty places between Molde and
Trondhjem. It also enables travellers sub-
ject to sea-sickness to reach both Christian^
tund and Trondhjem without physical incon-
venience, although the stats, on this route
are generallpr very indifferent, and many of
them not " rast." The route can also be used
in sections in connection with strs. that run
up the NordmSre waters from Christiansund.
Total distance to Trondhjem, 228 kU. ; and
cost of posting, with 1 horse, about 35 kr.]
From Molde the posting-road runs
along the pretty Fannestrand (see
" Molde," Bte. 30). The old Avernie
extends for about 5 kil., beyond
which trees have been more recently
planted on either side of the chatiss^e
to
Strands (9 kil.) Bolsd island is
right opposite. Continuing along
the shore of the Fannefjord^ numer-
ous farms will be passed in pleasant
scenery as far as
Eide (13 kil.), prettily situated on
the edge of the fjord, on the opposite
side of which rises the Skcuila mtn.
[A road of importance to the tourist traffic
branches off here to BatnfjordtSren (16 klL),
Furtety an intermediate stat., being 9 Ml. from
Eide. The total distance from Molde to
Batnfjordsbren is 38 kil. (3 hrs.), and the
stats, are all "fast." Fare, 3 to 5 kr. Christian-
sund can be reached hence by str. (2 hrs.)
several times a week. If a str. be not avail-
able, drive to Oimnces (11 kil., or 16 from
l2
143
Route 33. — Molds to Trondhjem,
Farset). The distanoe thence by boat to
Christiansimd is 19 kil., but by rowing only
(8 kil.) to Fladscet, and posting across (9 kil.)
Fredd island, there will be only a further
short row of 3 IdL to Ohristiamnind.]
The stats, beyond Bide are
Istad (9 kil.), whenoe a road runs
S. to Eidsvaag.
Heggeim (11 kil.)
AngYik (11 kil.) The 3 last and
the 2 next are not " fast '* stats, (pay
10 6. per kil.) The Sundalsfjord str.
touches here. A boat must now be
taken across that fjord (also called
Tingvoldfjord). Boating-rate 6 6.
per kil. for each rower, and a gratuity
for the passage to
Koksvik (6 kil.), where the Sundal
str. also puts in. Again a drive to
Bolset (8 kil.), whence by boat
across the Stangvikfjord to
Stangyik (7 kil.) Good quarters.
Str. stat. Hence a hilly road skirt-
ing at a short distance the fjord, past
KvandCy where a valley to the 1. will
be entered. In it is
Aasen (15 kil., 8 kil. from Sv/ren-
<2aZsi>ren), which is sometimes reached
direct from Stangvik. The road now
runs up the pretty Sv/rendalj and at
5 kil. is joined by the road from
Surendalsoren. It is flat, but ascends
occasionally from the Suma river.
Ranees ch, will be passed, under the
Honsiadknykf which is frequently
seen on the next stage. Thence along
a level, past Sogge, to
Honstad (Haanstad) (10 kil.) A
mtn.-path runs hence to the Trold-
heim (Oaren) ssBter in Foldalen (22
kil.) ; thence to Storsaeteren (15 kil.),
where there is a tourist-hut. The
salmon and trout fishing here is
generally leased. The road runs
principally along the bank of the
river, its tributary, the VindQlay
with the Kvceme, or SagfoSy to
the rt., will be crossed, and about
midway on this stage, on the rt. bank
of the river, will be seen Mo ch.
After rising considerably, the road
sinks again towards the mouth of the
Folia, flowing from the charming
Foldal valley, which extends towards
Opdaly forming one of the principal
approaches to the Troldheim, THe
stage ends at
Kvammea (15 kil.) A mtn.-patli
hence to Qaren, and the tourist-lmt
mentioned above. Beyond, the JBtdJu
river will be crossed, and the rt. bank
of the Suma gained by a new road.
A view is obtained of Bindalerv ch..,
on an eminence. To the rt. of it,
amidst pretty scenery, the Rinna flo^w^s
down. The Qjdaa, another tributary,
will be passed before ascending to
FoBSeid (10 kil.) Tolerable stat.,
prettily situated. The new road runs
past Ldfald and over the Suma.
With the Tiaa to the rt., the low
heights of the Surendalskog will be
seen in the background, at the
upper part of the valley. In this
vicinity is the boundary between the
prefects, of Bomsdal and S. Trond-
hjem. Descending towards the valley
of the Orklay the stage ends at
Garberg (14 kil.) At a short dis-
tance from this stat. the road bifur-
cates : on the rt. it runs to Kalstad,
and thence S.E. to Bjerkaker (Bte. 13),
affording a viewto the S. of the Meldaly
with the Orkla (good, fishing) flowing
through it. Farms will be seen on
the rt. bank of that river, under the
shadow of the Meldalskog, The last
part of the stage is made up and
down hlUs of sand deposited by the
Orkla. Horses are changed at
AarUvold (in the Orkedal) (19 kil.)
Very good quarters. Hence the road
runs along the 1. bank of the Orkla,
Mo ch. will be seen to the 1., prettily
situated. Beyond, the Vomuiy Tonga,
and Hauka rivers will be crossed.
Landscape somewhat monotonous.
After passing over the Siku-elv, which
falls out of Lake Siken (rich in fi^h),
a halt is made at
Bak (12 kil.) Good quarters. A
flat road hence along the Orkla,
spanned at a short distance from the
stat. by the Forve BrOy a bridge of
9 spans. Orkedalen Ch. and Manse to
the rt.
[At Kirkesoeteroren, 20 kil. from Bak^ and
accessible from Trondhjem by str., good
salmon and trout flaking can be obtained,
Route 34. — Molde to Christianstmd.
149
especially in the SOa rirer and the Rovand i
lake; also good shooting in fine mtn.
scenery.]
[It is only 8 Idl. from Bak to Obkedai/-
85iiBN* on the Orkedal^ord^ whenoe a str.
can be taken to Trondhjem.]
Travellers not yet tired of postixig
will drive from.Bs^ to
Eli (19 kil.) by a very hilly stage.
EU farm is very prettily situated. A
steep descent leads to the shore of
the fjord, along whieh 4b a new level
road to
SaltnsnmandeH (10 Ml.) ^Rie stat.
(tolerably good) lies a little way up a
hill, off the road. Travellers can post
hence to Heimdal (8 kil.), a stat.
on the Christiania-Trondhjem rly.
(Bte. 14), or drive direct by a new
and level road, in 2^ hrs.,to
ZSOKBHJSK. :(See Seotion m.)
.EOUTE M.
MOLIXB TO CHBISTXANfiUl^D.
tBystr.)
[I>iitanc«, U yXLi tinw, 7^ \m,i iare^
2.80 kr.]
IPbe ^DOfine in HaeBi Wv, then N.,
when the JvUttnd is ^ntioiMd. Soon
the large OUerO and the low Qossen
islands ars piaased ^m ^Stub 1. and a
stoppage 2na4e wt BinAy >on >the low*
lying foielimd of thatnsme. Hence
a VBtreiieh of opMi 4ea {frequently
roujgli) hm to lie passed (a^ut 1^ ht.)
This is the renowned and i«doiibt-
el4e rodt-strew^i Mustadviken, Hhe
Btemhest (S2301t.-) promontory, mark-
ing the boundary between Bomsdal
tmd Nordmdre, wiH be rounded, with
KvWiolmen HgJU a little beyond.
Witii ^ramgncn to the rt. the Bur-
sMnd, is eortered, tm^ the <enfd of this
route reached jCfc
Consul, ^ThiB town (pop. 10,386) is
built upon 4 ialaflsids — Kirkelandet,
Nordkmdetylndkmdett and Skorpen —
between which steam-launches main-
tain communication. There is a
pretty park on the first-named island.
From seaward this irregularly built
town is not seen until the narrow
passage between the islands is passed.
Its trade is important, for it exports
about two-thirds of the entire Nor-
wegian produce of dried cod, for
which Bpain and Italy are the prin-
cipal customers.
There is nothing to be seen in the
town itself, except the Waterworks
and Reservoir (a pretty stroll), but
from the highest point of it (Va/rden)
a splendid, memorable view will be
obtained of a sunset or sunrise over
the op«i sea.
About } kil. distant is the Brems-
ncBsJmlt a remarkable cavern ex-
tending 280 It. into the Bremsnads-
hatten mtn.
The 3 grand, and too little fre-
quented, NordnUire fjords open out
in the vicinity of Ghristiansund.
They are the Simdal^ the Surendah
and the Vmje (Hefone) fjords, with
numerous branches penetrating far
inland.
Although the immediate neigh-
bourhood of the town has a naked
and uninviting appearance, a trip of
only a few miles in any one of the
fjords above-named reveaJs scenery
of which Hhe wildness or the beauty
can weU be ranked among the finest
in Norway. Some of the noteworthy
points on those fjords have been
noticed in the preceding overland
route to Trondhjem. From Ghris-
tiansund the following excursions by
comfortable strs. running frequently
are highly recommended. Steam-
launches can be specially hired at
moderate charges.
150 Route S5. ■^Christiansu'nd to 'tromdhjem.
[ExcuBSiONS.— The SunddUi/Scrd (aljout
68 kU.. loDg) affords the most picturesque
mtiL views. From OpdX^y where the str. calls,
Nerdal can be reached by carriole in about
t hrs., and it is onlv 1| hr. walk thence to
IndercUa,* a mtn.-TaUev surrounded by grand
glaciers and peaks. The neighbouring lakes,
of much beauty, abound in trout. The Inder-
dal, says Frof . Yngrar Nielsen, can be com-
pared with the cdebrated Zermatt in Switzer-
land, especially as 2 of its mtns. are yery
much like those that tower over Zermatt.
There are mtns. and glaciers that remind the
traveller of Monte Bo^a, while the Jkdetaamj
which rises in the middle of the valley, is a
good faesimUe of the upper part of the
Matterhorn.
The Inn atlnderdal is also a starting-point
for further explorations. The Troldheim
("Home of the Wizards'*) is quite a new
tourist-land destined to supplement the
Jotunheim, but as yet only accessible to
pedestrians. A walk of 7-8 nrs. brings the
tourist to Storli (good accommodation at the
house of a guide of that name). Thence it is
an easy day's walk to Fitkesceteren* past
StorboekM (about 5000 ft.), from the summit
of which is a splendid view of the Dovre
plateau, while to the N. the open sea is
visible, and to the S. the grandest peaks of the
Jotunheim. The ascent is easy, even for
ladies. It is a short day's walk from Fiske-
sflBteren to Kvammen (see preceding Boute)
and a day's march to EenneJm. The road
to Trondhjem (Bte. 33) is reached at either
of those places.
It is a walk of only 6 hrs. (eas^ also for
ladies) respectively to ffoaas and St&rfale
(both in SundaleiO and to ToddUn^ at the end
of the SurendcUsJyord.
From Sunddtsdren^ at the head of the Sun-
dais fjord^ a fine road runs through the wild
and narrow SundtU valley to Trondhjem (see
last Route), and over the Dovre f jeld to Chris-
tianla and to Bomsdal. About 11 kil. from
it is a magnificent rwiut iLilledalen) shut in
by rocky sides (up to 4000 ft.) and with ragged
edges towering perpendicularly above the
bottom of the valley. Gk>od footpaths lead
thence to Otsedaleny Eikitdalent Le^a^ and
Dotre, past Aursj<5, a lake celebrated for its
profusion of trout. The Lilledal is quite
as grand as any part of the Jotunheim.
The Surendals fjwrd is of a milder cha-
racter. At its head is the picturesque
TodcH^ a mtn.- valley, from the upper part of
which the wild and steep ITeaastigen path
leads through Neaadalen to the Troldheimy
where the Fiskesceter (see above) can be
reached in 1 day.
From the Surendalstfren steamship-stat. on
this fjord a good road leads through the
charming Surendal and Bindeil to Trond-
hj^n and Ohristiania CRte. 33).
A good road runs from VinjeGren, at the
head of the Vinjejjord through Hetme and
Oktedalent to Trondhjem.]
ROUTE 85.
OHBIBTIANBUND TO TBONDHJEM.
(By Str.)
[Distance, 164 Ml. ; time, about 9 hrs. ;
fare, 8.30 kr. ; by direct mail strs. Excellent
local strs. run daily in about 11 hrs. to
Trondhj^n, mostly avoiding the open sea,
and touching at more places than are men-
tioned on the course described below.]
With the great Grip lighthouse
some way to the N.W., the str. enters
the Talg^G and crosses the open sea
in less than 1 hr., keeping in view
the high snow-fields inland. Passing
next inside the low and bare island
of Smdlen, a stoppage is made at
Edd, witii Tyrha/ug Ught at its N.
extremity. From this point there is
a view, over Stabben and Ttcsteren
islands (on which are some high
mtns.), of Shjorta and other remark-
able peaks on the distant mainland.
After crossing another short stretch
of unsheltered water, the str. runs
inside the great Hitteren island (207
sq. m.), on which, as well as on other
islands on this part of the coast, red
deer are found (see IntrodiicHon :
" Sport ' ') . The shooting is generally
leased. The broad channel now
entered is the Hittersund or Trond-
hjemsleden, A short stoppage is
made at
Havn, on Hitteren island. Another
more or less open sheet of water
(from which FrOien island is visible
to the W.) is passed before going
inside the LeTcsa islands and the
island of Fosen. After passing the
small Garten island, the str. stops at
Beian, at the N. point of the flat
Orland promontory^ along whiQh a
Route 3b. — Ostraat; S/iisen; Trondhjem. 151
road runs N. in the direction of the
Aafjord (see Section III.) The
Trondhjem fjord is then entered, the
Ch* on Drland being on the 1. and,
beyond it, dstraat, one of the ancient
residences most frequently mentioned
in Norwegian history. In the 16th
and 17th cents, it belonged to the
Bjelke family, a member of which
was the well-known Danish chan-
cellor. The present stately buildings
(1655) are of an exceptional charac-
ter in Norway, and are well preserved
by their present proprietor, Mr. J.
Heftye. A high, massive tower will be
seen backed by a dark, bare mtn.-side.
The SkjGren fjord runs up here to the
E. from Agdenaes Light (rt.) The
firth is locally called the Agdences-
fjord. The course then is towards a
pretty bay which runs up to Bitsen,
where the large wooden Beinshloster
buildings stand on a height sur-
rounded by a park. Here are the
ruins of the Bein cofwent, founded
in 1230 by Skule Jarl, the only male
representative of the powerful Bein
race, descending from Tostig, brother
of the last Anglo-Saxon king. It
was suppressed at the Beformation.
On the S. side of the fjord is a suc-
cession of pretty, well-cultivated viJ-
leys, separated by partly wooded
mtns., while the opposite shore is
more bare of vegetation. Some of
the strs. put in at Bauberg, on a
pretty little point, above which will
be seen the large cluster of farms,
(fee, called the Stadsbygd. Trond-
hjem, sheltered by Oraakallen mtn.
(1840 ft.), and the Sigdrdal, now
come in sight. More to the rt. are
the Vasffeld and the Hfjeld; and,
crossing the mouth of the OrkedaU-
fjord, at tiie head of which, above Or-
kedaly rises a high mtn. called the
Ovnjjeld, as well as a cluster of mtn.-
tops belonging to the Foldal fjelds,
ByncBset is rounded, Munkolnwi
island passed close inside, the river
Nid entered, and the str. brought up
at the quay of
TBONBEJEK^ (See Section III.)
._^..*
..
•
Heights -av Metres
EngEeKM let.
O S to %0 30 40 so
Mlomitreg.
A to $0 90 *0 to
WO
..
w
LsyrtJUr.
F.S.WfsUer.
^S.WelU
Section III
THE NORTH OF NORWAY
165
ROUTES.
[The names of places are printed in italics only in those Bontes where
the places are described,]
Boute Page
36. Great Britain to Trend-
hjenif by sea . . . 165
87. Trondhjem to Stockholm,
by rail .... 160
38. Trondhjem to Namsos, vid
Levanger and Stenkjcsr,
by str. and road . . 162
39. Trondhjem to Namsos, by
str. . • • • f 165
Route Page
40. Namsos to Mosjdm ( Vefsen) ,
by str 167
41. Mosj6en(Vef sen)to BocfcJ, by
str 169
42. The Lofoten islands . . 173
43. Bodo to TnymsQ, by str. . 175
44. Troms5 to Hammerfest . 178
45. Hammerfest to Vd/rc^ and
Vadsl) (Varanger fjord),
vid the N. Caj?e . • 181
BOUTE 86.
GBBAT BBTEAIN TO TBONDHJEM.
(By sea.)
[Thb North of Norway.— The tourisfc
gtream to Norway is extending more and
more to the N., attracted principally
by the glories of the Midnight Sun.
Other interesting objects for a visit to this
remote and unique i)art of Europe are, how-
ever, gradually being opened out by the de-
velopment of stefim navigation, the ex-
tension of roa^, and the improvement of
hotel accommodation. With the exception
of a few great salmon rivers, such as the
Alten^ the Tana^ and the Pcuvik^ which have
been known to British sportsmen for half a
century, the flshable waters of Nordland and
Finmarken are still but little utilised. Equally
worthy of exploration are the mtns. (for rein-
deer-shooting) and the lakes and rivers (for
fishing') that border on Sweden, or that lie
between the Norwe^an frontier and the Gulf
of Bothnia. The discomfort of meeting with
mosquitoes must be provided against in the
manner suggested in the chapter on Sport
(Introduction).
Those who visit Northern Norway will be
struck with the mtn. forms of the Lo/oten
islands^ the peaks and aiguilles being inde-
scribably grand. The scenery on the main-
land coast is also stupendously fine, although
bare and bleak. In clear weather, the great
Fondalen snow-flelds are visible, and many
superb glaciers will be seen branching dowo
seawards. In the neighbourhood of Hammer-
fest the soeneiy declines in grandeur, but it
revives in another form at the N. Oai)e,
which is but one of a series of dark headlands
standing out as perx)endicular cliffs 800 to
1000 ft. high, some of them being tenanted
by countless flocks of every variety of sea-
bird. The V03rage and travel inland give
opportunities of visiting encampments of
Laplanders, and of meeting many '* fisher
Lapps,'* as distingniished from those who
pursue nomadic occupations.
But the real magnificence of Norwegian
scenery cannot be explored merely by a
voyage along the rock-girt coast of the
country. It is to be found rather in the minor
fjords that branch ofl! from or terminate the
larger, monotonous estuaries.
It is a remarkable feature that, even in the
Varanger fjord, so desolate in appearance,
there are branches that lead to lovely, wooded
districts only a few miles inland.]
[Voyage to Trondhjkm.— (Consult /n-
troduction, local time-tables, and advertise-
ments as to sailings and fares, which
vary every season and each year.) The
most stable line is that of Messrs. T. Wilson,
Sons & do., of Hull, who run strs. weekly to
Trondhjem. Special tourist yachts, Norwe-
gian and British, also sail frequently from
British ports to Trondhjem. The course is
usually to StavangeTf whence the strs. ooast
and have the advantage of the fine scenery
described in Section IL]
The distance from the Hnmber to
the ooast of Korway in this direotioi)
166 Route 36. — Great Britain to Trondhjem.
is 756 Eng. nant. m., and the time
ooonpied, inoluding a stoppage at
Stayanger, is 70^72 hrs. The coast
is made in the vioinity of Bre-
tnanger and Stailcmd (see Bte. 30),
ofif the entrance of the Nordfjord,
about 130 Eng. m. N. of Bergen.
With a rough sea, or in onftetfled
weal^er, the regular strs. invariably
isJui the inner Jead, JH. lof Bexgeo, j
and coast along in smooth water.
The scenery varies consideraiily, 3ird,
while always interesting, is in several
places magnificent. (See Sectien IL)
Pas&ing under the walls of Munk-
holmen, Sxe «tr. xeaohes Its m'oK^rings
At
TBOin)HJkM.« iiat. ^<>35' 9r.
l^op. 25,090. BrH. VUe^SonMl and
Amen, C(m», Af&nU
HiBTOBC'^'niig «lty^aitw the woond oapi-
ial of tlie WngfJAm, was ^iuid«d on its pre-
Bent site, near the ancient royal manor of
Lade, in 99«, by King Olaf TrnvefisSa, under
the name of Nidaroi (" mouth of the Nid ").
It held an important plaoedn ^ady IToziwegiAU
liistoty, and (3uu)ged its JDome towards tihe
end <S. mm lAUx oent. te Trondbiem^ which
ori^^n^Qy Implied a district vi^ted To^ a
varieiy of Biisf artones that aneated all uk>-
.gress. The modem interpretation of that
pt^Twp . as ** the home of the throne " is there-
tore as incorrect as the appcUation of "Bron-
theim ''^ven to it In the days of the Hanseatio
League, and still persistently reproduced in
many publications. Falling into decay after
the death of its fooader, it was re-established
in 1016 by St. Olaf , who was originally buried
on a spot whEore a wooden oh. was later
ereoted And eveiftuaUy r^laoed.l»y an edifice
of stone. TChis became, iJber many additions
and alterations, the cath. and jaaetiopoUtan oh.
of Norway.
The importance of the city, as the rc^ul
residence until the latter part of the middle
ages and as the capital of Korway down to
the time of the union with Denmark (14th
cent.), decayed more especially after the Be-
f ormtttion. In ISSS it was entirely destroyed
by fire, while in 1564 ft was occupied by the
Swedes, In 156K{ tislted by the plague, amd in
1699 again almost laid in ashes. Another
visitation of the plague occurred in 1600.
The « Lehn" (fief) Of Tronffliiem having been
«eded to Sweden in 1068, the Citjr was be-
sieged and bombarded, with great damage to
its Windings, by a Norwegiam army of 8,500
men, to wWeh it snzrendered. Several other
fires in the 18th cent., and conflagrations
more especially in 1^841 and 1842, were disas-
trous to the citizens and gave to the city the
told, !modttni,'and TUiinterestlng aspect which
the traveller will recognise in its topograpl^.
7Va<fe.— In 1890 the principal Imports at
Trondhjem amounted to nearly 25,000 tons
in quantity, and to 64,000;. in value— one of
the chief items being coal from Great Britain ;
whUe the principal exports (dried and salted
cod, dec., fish-oil, dto.) were nearly 7,000 tons
in quantity and 78,0002. in value.
TopoGBAPHT. — The city (see Plan)
tyomipies a small peninsula formed by
ihe ^winding Nid river, which bounds
it on the S.E. and W., while its N.
irottl Iteieft ^^16 i^ore of the l^cmd-
iijem i^'ovd* It consists of wide,
straight streets flanked by brick or
«toine houses, mostly 2-storeyed,
althoogih there aore several public
teflldings of a more pretentious cha-
racter. In the outlying quartecs
wooden houses still abound.
The ^eat market-plaoe (Torvet)
occupies the centre of the city,
tlurough which the Munke st. runs
nearly N. and S., from the fjord to
the cath. Tha/t ^eet is intersected
ttt the market-place,' almost Bt right
angles, by the Kortgrns st, which
again runs parallel with the Dron-
mngens at, ^and the Otrcmd st. The
best shops are in the latter street.
Sights. — The first step taken by
the traveller is to visit the
1. Cathedral (Domkirkey
BefevMiee has been made above (under
BUtorf) to the foundation of this grand
•edifice, between 1016 and 1090, by St. Olaf, on
the spot now occupied by one of the chapels.
Hagnus the Good (1086-1047) raised a small
wooden chapel over the grave of St. Olat and,
soon after, Harald Haardraade built a stone
clx,, dedicated to Ot\r Lady, to the W. of it.
In 1160 Archbishop Oiestehi commenced the
construction of a great transept W. of that
ch., and probably completed it about 1183.
<*St. Clement's" chapel was no doubt finished
at the same period. During the next
60 or 70 years the whole of the E. part of the
present cath. was rebuilt, the chapter house
being joined to the apse of the Lady church.
In 1848 Archbishop Sigurd commenced
the nave a&d W. end. As a cath. the edificie
was completed in its full glory about the year
1300. The effects of a fire in 1338 probably
soon disappeared, but after the n^ct confla-
gration, in 143S, the work of restoration was
not equally w^ carried out, the country
* Stotioe Is given In the local journals of
1^ hottiB when the cath. is open to vlsi-
tors. S>uring the summer they are conducted
(bstween 12 uid S) by an authority on the
various characteristics of the edifice.
Route 36. — Trondhjem.
157
having retrograded in material welfare and
artistic taste. Another fire in 1531 ravaged
the edifice still more, and the Beformation
period was not favourable to the maintenance
of the eccles. monuments of the middle
ages. Moreover, pilgrims no longer brought
their contributions in adoration of the shrine
of St. Olaf, to whom, in the middle ages, chs.
were dedicated, not only in Great Britain
(notably, St. Olave's in London), but also in
Iff ormandy, Flanders, Gtermany, Sweden, Den-
mark, and even Constantinople. In fact, the
shrine of the martyred saint was long one of
the principal objects of pilgrimages in Europe.
Further damage was inflicted by fires in 1708
and 1719. These repeated disasters will fuUy
account for the state of ruin and neglect with
which the present eminent director of the
work of restoration (architect Christie) has
had to deal.
Before describing the edifice in its present
condition, it may be of interest to mention
that competent authorities consider that the
architecture of the oldest parts of the cath.
is in every respect similar to, if not richer
than, the best Norman architecture in Eng-
land. The architecture of parts that are next
in date, in Early English, is equally similar to
the best originals, with all its characteristics
of toothed ornament, water moulding at
base, &c.
Many of the old Norwegian kings of the
11th and 12th cents, were buried in the
ground covered by this cath., and 4 of
them were crowned in it (1299, 1449, 1460,
and 1483). Under the present constitution,
coronation must always take place within its
walls. The last instances on which such
ceremonies took place were in 1818 (Carl
Johan), 1860 (Charles XV.), and 1873 (the
now reigning monarch, Oscar II.)
The cath., cruoiform in shape
and built of a dark slate-coloured
stone of great hardness, locally quar-
ried, stands at the S. extremity of
Munke st., and, not only for its length
(335 ft.), is certainly the most re-
markable eccles. building in Scan-
dinavia. The W. end, completed a.d.
1300, with its 2 towers and a frontage
of 125 ft., is still in ruins. Its archi-
tecture was, like that of the E. end, in
the pointed-arch style. Two or three
stone statues of saints, which origi-
nally adorned its fagade in great
numbers, have alone survived, but in
a very mutilated condition. This part
of the edifice is used as a workshop
during the restoration, towards which
the Storthing makes an annual grant,
supplemented by contributions and
donations, to which no traveller can
refuse to add.
At the E. end, where the foun-
dations are evidently not quite hori-
zontal, the work of restoration was
completed in 1890, and in the foUow-
ing year it was used for divine ser-
vice. This part of the oath, is
now resplendent with its slender
columns supporting the Triformm, or
gallery between the vaulting and the
roof, and the richness of its decora-
tion cannot fail to impress the visi-
tor. It consists of 3 naves, the outer
walls of which, long crooked, have
been scientifically restored to the
perpendicular. On the S. side is the
splendid " King's entrance," one of
the most beautiful parts of the cath.
The octangular termination of the
Chancel (built 1250), now restored
and exposed to view, had always been
the most richly decorated part of the
edifice. Its architectural details are
remarkable for execution, beauty, and
purity of style, as is likewise the
new High altar ^ over which is a fine
cast of Thorvaldsen's noble statue of
our Saviour, the gift of the sculptor.
The altar is surrounded by light
pillars and open arches extending to
the roof. In the middle ages the
silver shrine of St. Olaf, ri(3ily de-
corated with jewels, stood on the
high altar, in the centre of the
chancel. It was plundered at the
Beformation, and in 1567 the body
of the saint was re-interred, either
within the cath. or in its imme-
diate vicinity. A good view of the
Octagon is obtained by ascending to
the triforium by a winding stair-
case in the small tower at the S.
side, and a further climb brings the
visitor to the " balcony," or beauti-
fully arched openings in the wall that
separates the octagon from the rest
of the building. At the bottom of
the same tower is St. Olafs Well^
the water of which is traditionally
supposed to rise from the spot on
which the martyr was first interred.
The rich and graceful elegance of the
octagon is best seen from the E. end
of tiie cath., notwithstanding the
nearness of the object to be admired.
The exterior of the octagon is also
very striking.
158 Route 86. — Oreat Britcdn to Trondhjent,
The 3 small square chapels pro-
jecting from the E., W., and S. sides
of the octangular termination, are
masterpieces, now restored in the
later pointed-arch style. Archbishop
Erik Valkendorf's arms (1510-1522)
are cut in stone in some places within
the chapels. The " Archbishop's
door" is at the S.E. angle of the
octagon.
Of high architectural interest is the
Ghapter-honse {Kapitelet)^ a small
building on the N. side of the E. end,
connected by a passage with the oc-
tagon. This is an unusually fine
specimen of the transition period be-
tween the use of rounded and pointed
arches. In Fergusson's Architec-
tuTBy it is described as the glory of
the cath., and as resembling exter-
nally our Early English in style,
while in plan and position not unlike
" Becket's crown *' at Canterbury.
♦* Internally it is a dome 30 ft. in
diameter, supported by columns ar-
ranged octagonally: all the details
correspond with those of the best
Decorated."
The N. and S. Transepts^ together
with the great Tower between them,
are in process of restoration. The
northern transept is in a pretty and
perfect rounded-arch style, with a
Triforiuvif and is well preserved, al-
though most of the columns with
which it was adorned have long been
replaced by wooden supports. By
ascending to the triforium, the great
tower can be mounted for a good
view. On the E. side is a 2 -storey ed
chapel. The lower one is entered
from the body of the cath., through
a rounded arch richly ornamented
with zigzags ; the upper one from
the triforium.
In exact uniformity, but not equally
well preserved, is the S. transept,
called the "Lagthing," because that
popular assembly used to deliberate
here in the 18th cent. It was long
separated from the rest of the edifice
by a wall, now taken down. Here
also is an interesting chapel, similar
to the one in the N. transept. It was
converted into a mortuary chapel by
Thomas Angell, a merchant of Trond-
hjem, who bequeathed a large pro-
perty to his native city. This part
of the cath. is entered from the
N. transept, through a small restored
portal.
The modem Spire at the E. end
will remain out of proportion with
the rest of the edifice until the main
tower is restored. It can be as-
cended for a fine view over the town
and harbour.
Through an avenue of trees in the
pretty Church/yardf a pleasing view
will be obtained (from the N. door of
the transept) of the blue waters of
the fjord, the Munkholmen islet, and
the mtns. on the opposite side of the
bay. Close to the cath. is
2. The Arsenal, with some remains
of the ancient royal residence
(Kongs-gaarden) and of the old
archiepiscopal palace, which, with
the adjoining grounds, are now oc-
cupied for military purposes, the
naval portion of the arsenal having
been removed to Horten in the
Christiania fjord. An interesting
collection of old Norwegian weapons
is shown here.
8. Another large Ch. at Trondhjem
is that of Our Lady (Vor Frue-kirke),
of which some of the walls belonged
to an ancient Boman Catholic edifice.
It is in the Kongens gade, and is
worth entering in order to notice the
singular effect of the opera-box -like
pews piled one above the other to the
ceiling.
4. In a small " park '* adjoining
this ch. stands a Statue (by Bergs-
lien) of Fader Tordens^old, the
famous admiral, who was born in
this city, 1690.
At the corner of the Munke and
Dronningens gade is the Stiftsgaard,
a large 2-storeyed wooden edifice,
the residence of the royal family
when here for the coronation or dur-
ing a visit. As implied by its name,
it is partly occupied by the governor
of the eccles. prov. of Trondhjem.
1. ^arteiv Gordon*
2. CaAoHoChurclu
3. A»tfe<toZ/ 0.4.
4. LBorSalhtmb inttitut» D. 5.
5. BiOurpsIbiiaoec. — D. B.
e. CaOt^etrcO,. D. B.
7. Latm/SohooV. _ _...D. &.
8. Iheatre'lUhnceit / t \>a in /-...Ti. 5.
9. iV]lio» Ofne» „.. _ ...C. &.
13. An'irMr JBanA>- C: B.
H..gr»JCriJ0n/AZbN>n4aiZI( C.6.
IB.TEcftmo/.flbCeZ' C.4.
16. Governor^ Ba>uf0. C.5.
V7.Britaamia/BotA^ 0.5.
Vi.BemJot 0.5.
Vd.BaOtf r-wanrv).. 0.6.
ZQ.Ptnxabo'BimJo C.6.
ZL.GranJLHatei C.6.
iZ.Ha^L ebAngJmtm-r* 0. 5.
2&.St»etnvJGSftarv 0.5.
ZA.FHyatB'HotA. 0A6,
2hMotmLScanainai»» 0.6.
1%4P^ yoffhap 0.6.
Zl.RaOiyt^ StecOarv... B.5.
2^StBam/Se»^hfai. 0.3.
Z9.Iiatiaru£b School 0.3.
ZQ.W€rrkhotu» 0.3.
31 . Capanuruhi Mo^pUaL OJ).4
BZ.Lunaiu>Aayhirni. D.4.
SS.Houfgof Correctum/. 0.4
3A.Ga» Worha D.4.
dh.GooAlknqatarrLoiiLgmi D.3.
36. MoTtuar^yChapelZ J).&.
3 7. AraenaZ'... D.6.
38. GymnaHiaBiaU D.5.
39. Syan0j^H>theoary. 0.5.
40.L^^v». , _ 0.6.
41.«frfr. : C.5.
^.(Jrneru , D.6.
43.0ha«rvatary 0.2.
44£rittt^no»Consulat». C.5j&
^l^biiona2/Sch4>ot D.5
46J20W Church/..... CJXa
^yjUding SiJvoot D.4.
4&.ToahmoaL.. . „ D. 5.
F.S.\»Uler
Route 36. — frondhj&m^
169
5. The Boyal Norwegian Scientific
Society has erected a building to
hold its Library &nd Collections. The
former is composed of about 50,000
vols., accessible to the public. It is
the richest library in Norway after
that of the Ohristiania University.
The Collection of Antiquities (prin-
cipally from the Nordenf jeldske part
of the country) is a very comprehen-
sive supplement to the museums at
Christiania and Bergen. It is open
daily in summer, as is also the
Zoological collection, in which are
interesting specimens of the birds of
Norway.
A Stav-ch. (about 700 years old)
has been re-erected in the grounds
of the Scientific Society.
6. Several charitable Institutions
in various parts of the town are due
to the beneficence of Thomas Angell
(see " Cathedral ").
The city contains a large engine-
factory (on the banks of the Nid),
several breweries, distilleries, paper-
mills, and shipbuilding yards.
7. The pride of the citizens is not
so much in their public buildings
as in the splendid works along the
shore of the fjord which protect the
new Harhowr. The Stats, of the 2
Railways (to Christiania and to Stock-
holm) are in the immediate vicinity
of the harbour quays.
Beyond the suburb of Baklandet,
on the rt. bank of the Nld, the city
is commanded by a chain of hiUs,
and on one of them, about 20 min.
walk from the bridge, is the old fort
or citadel of Christiansten, erected
1680. The ugly white powder-maga-
zine within its walls is a conspicuous
object from all parts of the fjord;
there is nothing to be seen in it, but
the ramparts afford a good view of
the city. The military importance
of the fort has disappeared. It is
now used only as a saluting and fire-
alarm battery.
Environs.
(a) Munkholm (20 min. by rowing-
boat, fare 1^ to 2 kr.) (No permission
required, but the soldier who acts as
guide should receive a small fee.)
This smaU island rock stands oppo-
site the city, in the centre of the
fjord. The fortifications date from
1659. Canute the Great (1028)
founded a monastery of Benedictines
here, the first of that order estab-
lished in Norway. A low round tower
is all that remains of it. In a small
gloomy chamber in it the prime
minister of Christian V. of Denmark,
Count Peder Griffenfeld (Peter Schu-
macher), was immured from 1680 to
1698, dying in Trondhjem shortly
after his release. A small tablet in an
embrasure bears the name and date,
and marks the position of a deep rut
which he made by pacing up and
down, but the wall and flooring have
been repaired. This fortress has been
dismantled, and there are only a few
men on it to attend to the lighthouse
and to the few guns used for salutes.
Some of the old cannon and gun-
carriages are exposed. The view on
all sides over the fjord from the grass-
grown ramparts is exceedingly pretty.
It is still the dark solitary rock which
Victor Hugo has described in his
"Hans of Iceland."
(6) Lerfossen (5 kil.) Two beau-
tiful falls, formed by the Nid, S. of
the city. The lower fall — Lille Ler-
fos — is about 105 ft. high. The upper
fall— Store Lerfos— nearly 1^ kil.
beyond, is smaller and less grand.
The local Tourist Association has
made a road by which these water-
falls can be closely approached,
and also built a tourist-hut. The
salmon-fishing in the pools below the
lower fall is sometimes good, and
available on application locally. Fur-
naces for smelting copper, chrome-
works, saw-mills, Ac, are driven by
the water-power of the falls.
These are the best of the 8 falls
which the river Nid makes in ita
course of 24 kil. from Lake SeelbOr
160
Bauie 37. — Trandhjem to Stockholm.
It is a pretty exoursion up this valley
and across tbe lake from Teigen to
KvellOt and thenoe by land to Si^or-
dal, on the Trondhjem fjord, and
back to the city by land or wateor.*
(c) To SsBlbo (Selbu) and Tydalen.
This ezcorsion can be made in a
couple of days.
From Heimdal stat., on the Chris-
tiana rly., Teigen can be reached on
foot, or by carriole from Esp posting-
stat. to Brettun (17 kil., pay for 21),
both places being at tiie W. end of
the ScelbO'Sjd, about 30 kil. long, on
which a small str. plies almost daily.
At the S.E. end of the lake, near
Sselbo ch., are Marieborg and the
Sslbo Sanatorium « (Kvello farm),
much frequented for the salubrity
and beauty of its situation, and for
the cheap and good accommodation
it affords.
Hence the picturesque and well-
cultivated Tydal vaJley can be
reached. In 1718 the greater part
of a Swedish army, retreating from
Trondhjem, was frozen to death on
the Tydal mtns.
(d) Oraakal, a mtn. 1840 ft. in
height, about 11 kil. W. of Trond-
hjem, commands a fine view, and
can be ascended (without a guide) in
about 5 hrs. there and back.
In addition to many others, charm-
ing excursions may also be made by
boat up the Trondhjem fjord, and
also down it to the sea-coast, where
the wild-fowl shooting is good.
Travellers who, on going north-
wards, intend to lartd on the coast for
fishing or shooting, or for exploring
the interior, should take with them
from Trondhjem such store of pre-
served meats and wine, (&c., as they
may require. A few candles in the
latter end of Aug. or the beginning
of Sept. will be found of use.
[For eommunieations with the N., and
for the rly. to Stockholm, see time-tablea and
the succeeding Routes.]
^ For details of these and othw excursions
consult the English edition of A Guide to
Trondhijem and Us Environs^ published by
the local Tourist Association.
BOTJTir 87.
TBONDHJBM TO 8T0CIKHN>L1£
(By raU.)
[Distance to Stockholm 854 kil. ; fare 47 kr. ;
time 59 hrs. Frmu the middle of Jane to
the end of Sept. a through train runs in
31^ hrs. The Norwegian section of this line
ends at Storlien^ 108 kil. Fare 5.30 kr. and
5i84kr.; time 4| hrs.]
From the central stat., oLoae to the
steamship quays, the line ccosses, by
a swinging bridge, the Nid^ and soon
passes Lade Gh. (1.) W. of it is a
site of the: same name anciently
occupied by the residence of the
Earls of Lade, bat on it only a. large
wooden buildiiog is now to be seen.
Being only 3 kiL from the city. Lade
is frequently the object of a walk,
principally for the sake of a fine
view of the fjord. The first stat. is
Leangen (3 kil.), beyond which
Rotvold lunatic asylum is passed.
The hne winds along the bays of
the fjord, on the opposite (1.) side of
which pretty hamlets will be seen.
A stoppage is made at
Banheim (7 kil.) A cellulose wood-
pulp-mill, a flour* mill, and other
factories are established here. A
short way beyond, the Frosten and
Auran fjords open out, and after
passing through a long cutting the
train again draws up, at
Malvik (16 kil.) With the Ch. of
that name to the rt., the shore of the
fjord is still skirted, with a view of
the Forborfjeld (1936 ft.) and Stjdr-
ddlshalsen to the 1. on the other side
of the fjord. At the head of a bay
is the stat. of
Route S7» — Sommelvih; Meraher ; Starlien. 161
Hommelvik« (23 kil.) There is
a considerable export here of timber
from Sweden ; also smelting works.
[A zigzag road leads hence to Viken (12
kil.) ; Fuglem (12 kil.) ; and Marienhorg^
on Selbu lake (7 kil.) (see last Route).]
There is a lovely view here of the
fjord. On the other side of the bay
rises the QjevingaaSy under which
the line, blasted out of the rock,
passes. At the end of a short tannel,
the broad Stjdrdal valley opens out,
and the train soon stops at
Hell (32 kil.) A bridge spans
here the mouth of the StjGrdaU'elv,
in which is good salmon-fishing (see
" Sport," in Introdtiction), At the
back of the Stjdrdalshals (2 kil.) will
be seen the Forbordfjeld already men-
tioned.
[A posting-road here (N.) to Levanger (see
next Route), and S. to Selbu (see previous
Route).]
VcBmes ch. will next be passed on
the rt., and Lunke chapel on the 1.
bank of the river, the 1. side of which
the line follows, opening out striking
views of the wide valley, to
Hegpre (42 kil.), where there is a ch.
of the same name. The line winds
up the valley past several large farms.
Contracting where the Forra falls
into the Stjdrdals-elVy it widens
again at
Floren (57 kil.) Beyond this stat.
the valley again contracts, forming
occasionally recesses occupied by
farms. Bivulets come down the sides
of the valley, partly in small cascades,
through deep gullies worn in the
rock. The Reinaa falls on the 1.
into the valley, which is very narrow
up to
Ondaa (72 kil.), where the river of
that name is crossed. Beyond, the
train is carried over the Stjordals-elv
by a long bridge, and after passing
through a tunnel it ascends with a
long curve and, crossing the Lillea^,
runs on to
MERAEEB (81 kil.), alt. 720 ft.
This is a very pretty and thriving-
looking hamlet, with one of the most
[Norway — vi. 92.]
beautiful and impressive views on
the Hne. The surrounding wooded
hills are low, but there are mtns. of
some height in the background.
There is an old copper-mine in the
valley.
[Shooting and Fishing.— In this neighbour-
hood is the large estate of Btatsraad Astrup.
The elk-shooting and the salmon and trout
fishing on it are ezcellent. At present leased.]
From this stat. the line ascends
considerably. To the 1. will be passed
the valley of the Daleaa, after which
the Kobbera>a will be crossed, with
the Fomifjeldf Midtfjeldf and Mand-
fjeld in view. The Tevla issues out
of the Tevldal to the rt., flowing
partly through a pretty pine-forest.
In the background of that valley will
be visible the Snasahdgamej in
Sweden. There is a small stat. at
Torvmodaleny and soon the last farms
in Norway will be passed. The
Skurdalsa>ay which rises in the Skur-
dalsjdt above the Skursdals port, will
be crossed, and in a narrow part of
the valley the Swedish frontier will be
traversed (102^ kil. from Trondhjem)
at a height of 1948 ft. above sea-
level. The boundary is marked by a
broad cutting in the pine-forest, seen
from either side of the carriage.
The train then approaches a high
precipice on the bank of the Tevla,
which forms a small waterfall called
Helvetet. The river is crossed several
times before the train reaches
8T0BLISN « (106 kil.), the first
stat. in Sweden, where luggage is ex-
amined. Buff. good.
[For excursion to the grand Skurdalsport
(3 hrs. there and back), and for remainder
of journey to Stockholm, see Handbook for
Sweden.1
M
162
Route 88. — Trondhjem to Namsos,
ROUTE 38.
TRONDHJEM TO NAMSOS, vid LEVANGEB
AND 8TENKJAR.
(By str. and road.)
[Distance, 213 (210) klL ; approximate
posting-expeiise, 41 kr. The postiug-road
("fast" stats.) can be joined from Hell stat.
(see last Route). It is less fatiguing to take
the daily str. to Levanger (i-i^hrs.), or even to
Stenkjcer (10 to 12 hrs.) (For strs. consult
Bennett's time-tables.) The scenery is more
enjoyable by the sea-route.]
1. Posting-route to Leyangeb,
Stenejsb, and Nambob.
Leaving Trondhjem on the E. side,
the road continues near the S.E.
bank of the vast Trondhjem fjord
and its branches, through a rich,
fertile, and highly cultivated district,
but much broken with hills and
masses of rocks. The road is very
steep in many places. Numerous
little land-locked bays are passed,
which are highly picturesque. The
lateral valleys, each with its river,
are fine, and afford ample occupation
for the angler. The stages are :
Hangan (15 kil.) The Stjordalt-elv
is crossed by a bridge at Hell (see
previous Boute). Stjordal is the largest
of the lateral valleys on this side of
the Trondhjem fjord. It runs about
96 kil. up the country, and its beauti-
ful stream abounds in trout, Salmon
are also caught in it.
Sandfeerhus (18 kil.) The road
from Haugan here is excellent.
Travellers should telegraph for a
conveyance to meet them at Hell.
It was here that in 1612, during the
war between Christian IV. of Den-
mark and Gustavus Adolphus of
Sweden, Col. Monnichofen, after an
ineffectual attempt upon Trondhjem,
landed the Dutch troops he had
raised for the service of the Swedish
king. He marched up this valley
without opposition, seized upon and
permanently annexed to Sweden the
2 provinces of Jemtland and Her-
gedalen ; and then, moving upon
Stockholm, relieved Gustavus Adol-
phus from a critical position and
enabled him to arrange advantageous
terms of peace with Denmark.*
From Sandfierhus a good new
road leads through Stj^dalshalsen,
prettily situated in a bay of the fjord,
and over a well-cultivated tract of
country, with the fine Forbordfjeld
(1935 ft.) to the rt. After a descent,
another ascent is made by long zig-
zags to Skatvold ch.f whence it is
only a short way to
Forbord (10 kil., pay for 11).
Vordalen (12 kil.) A road runs off
here to a pretty promontory on the
fjord, while the main road continues
up the valley past the pretty hamlet
of Aasenj close to the Hammer Vand,
Next, after passing the Nesvand^ the
stage ends at
Vordre Skjerve (14 kil.)
Thence, Skogn ch. will be passed,
and Eidsbotnen^ a bay of the fjord,
reached. A large public Hospital
will be seen at the S. end of the bay,
of which the 6cenery is very pretty.
The last part of the road is along the
shore of a lake and past the large
farm of Mo, which lies close to
LEVANGEB* (11 kil.) This
town (pop. 900) is built, in lovely
scenery, on the E. shore of
the Vcerdals fjord, a branch of the
Trondhjem fjord. The harbour,
which is accessible even in winter,
since the fjord never freezes, is the
most sheltered of all the inlets on
* For an account of the Scottish exi)e(lition
which was to hare been made in combination
with the Dutch levies, see Rte. 12.
Route S8. — Voerdaleoren ; Stenl^cer.
163
the eastern coast of the fjord, and is
consequently a great place of resort
for fishing-vessels. Swedes come
across the fjeld in great numbers
when the snow makes the transport
of heavy goods practicable on sledges.
The fairs, held in December and
March, are attended by Laplanders
and natives of Finmark, who bring
to them products of the chase, &c.
[Excursions. — ^Many charmingtrips can be
made from Levanger. A walk or drive (about
11 kil.) round the Eidsbotnen is recommended.
Beautiful views will be obtained from
H^ereuu and KjSlaas (whence 7 Ch». are
visible) and from several other places at a
distance of 2 to 5 Ml.
/•wAinpr.— There are numerous lakes In the
mtns. to the E. where large trotU and fine
char can be taken. Very good fishing at the
head of the Yaerdal (see below).
Shooting. — Bearsy elk^ and ptarmigan
abundant.]
[BoAD TO Sweden.
This runs up the rich and beautiful Vienlal
valley, along the S. bank of the Vcera-elv
{trout). The stats, are : Ne$ (14 klL, pay for
15) ; Garne» (11 kil.) ; and SuUtuen (19 kil.,
good quarters). From Garnes the road follows
the course of the Jnna river, up a narrow
glen.
From Sulstuen, one of two roads can be taken :
(1 ) over St. Olafs bridge across the Inna, which
flows out of Inna lake, to Sandviken (15 kil.,
but pay for 18 kil.), and thence across the
frontier to Mcelen in Jemtland (17 kil., pay
for 19) ; (2) by the older (not equally good,
but more frequented) road to Skalstugan, in
Jemtland (good quarters), and thenoe by
way of Stall^emstugan to Dufved rly. stat.,
about 60 kil. from Sulstuen. Lapp encamp-
mentt are generally to be found in summer in
the neighbourhood of Skalstugan, whence a
mtn.-path leads to the Skal^d {&ta,n elevation
of about 1900 ft.) That lake is crossed by
boat to a point whence (with a guide) the
Lapps will be sought, liavellers should be
provided with veils, gloves, die, against
mosquitoes.
Another fine excursion can be made from
Sulstuen by a mtn.-path to Faersdalen, at the
E. end of the FaertjH lake; quarters (with
trout-fishing) at Mttmb. Near the lake are
the Kjdlehaugene (4100 ft.) and Uermansnas
(3400 ft.) On its N. bank are the remains of
entrenchments thrown up during the Swedish
invasion in 1718. It is an easy day's walk
hence (and a fine excursion) to Meraker rly.
stat. (see preceding Route), vid Brathakken, E.
of the Funded.}
From Levanger the road is flat.
After a slight ascent the fine Vcsrdal
comes into view. The soil becomes
very good, and the country less
rugged. Cultivation extends in all
directions, over hill and dale, and
luxuriant crops are produced, in-
cluding hops.
Grossing BindUret (a cavalry drill-
ground) and passing tne road which
turns off (rt.) to Sweden (see above),
a long bridge over the VcBrdal river
I will be passed, and the end of the
stage reached at
V»rdals5ren ^ (12 kil.)
[From VsordalAoren a road leads E. to
Stiklebtad (4 kil., pay for 5 kil.), a hamlet of
large well-built farms, and celebrated in
Norwegian history as being the place where
St. Olaf was slain in battle, a.d. 1030. A
stone Obelisk to his memory will be seen on a
hiU, a little to the rt., whence a pretty view
is obtained, particularly of the large Ekle
farm.
The Ch. at Stiklestad is of stone, and of
the 12th cent. The S. entrance has a fine
' round arch, with peculiar fillet ornaments,
similar to those in the transept of the cath.
at Trondhjem. The vestry-door is orna-
mented in the same manner.
The altar stands on the spot on which
St. Olaf was killed.
The distance hence to ^enkjcer, vid Leks-
dalen, is about 27 kil., and therefore shorter
than by returning to Yaerdalsoren and rejoin-
ing the main road.]
From Vserdalsdren the road runs
along level ground, passing a road (1.)
which leads to TroncBS (a stat. of the
strs.), and another that runs to Stik-
^sto^, through the LeksdaL Skirt-
ing the fjord, Salberg ch. (8 kil.)
is reached. Hence is a road to
InderOen. To the 1. of the ch. is
Hylla (also a steamship stat.), where
a fine view is obtained of the fjord,
the shore of which is now left. The
stage ends at
Boskje (13 kil.) The new road
runs past Sparhuen ch., the site of a
heathen temple. It then runs W. to*
the Beitstad fjord^ the shore of which
is kept for some distance. The stage
ends at
STENKJ2B « (17 kil.) This is a
prettily situated town (1800 inhabi-
tants), divided by the By-elv^ which
runs out of the grand Snaasen-vand^
and in which the trout-fishing is
good.
StenkjsBr is the terminal stat. of
the Trondhjem str. (see below).
m2
164
Route 38. — Trondhjem to Namsos.
[A road runs heuce to the Sneuuen-vandt
which, having an area of 30 sq. m. and
a length of about 37 kil., is the eighth In
size among Norwegian lakes. Surrounded
by fine mtns., and affording good trout-
Jlshingy it is well worth visiting. The road
passes by farms, and Fossum, a pretty place
between the Reins-vand and the Fossum-vand.
The 1. shore of the latter is kept to Sunda
(11 kil.) Good quarters. Hence a str. runs
up the lake to Sem (good quarters) in 4^ hrs.,
stopping at several places. The chancel in
Bnaasen {Snasa) ch. (1 hr. there and back)
is old, but the rest of it was erected in 1869.
There is a pretty view from the ch. From
Sem the travdler can drive to (11 kil.)
Gravbrot (good quarters), where there are 2
pretty waterfalls. Here a horse can be hired
(1.60 kr.) to take him in 2 hrs. to BlomsUceter,
where a tourists' hut with 4 beds wiU be
found. The Andorjjeld (2796 ft.), rising above
the saeter, can be ascended in 2 hrs. Splendid
view from its saeter of the Snaasen valley
and lake. The fishing in the neighbouring
fikSriifS (730 ft.) is rented by the Indhered
Tourist AssocifUion.
The road from Stenkjeer to Fossland, in
Namdalen^ is 114 kil. long (posting about
21.60 kr.) It is the shortest way to the
Fhkem-fos in the upper part of Namdal
(see next Eoute). For other Views the
best points are Off'etiaasen (1146 ft.), Skjijfte-
haugerif and Vaatabakken near StenkjsBr.]
From Stenkjeer the road to Namsos
ascends gradually in pretty scenery,
mostly through pine-forests. A
splendid view is obtained at Egge
ch., beyond which a pretty valley is
entered. After passing Kvaxn and
Saeli farms, the fjord is lost to view.
Skirting the Rongstadvand a pretty
view will be had from an elevation
in the road (at about 6 kil. from the
stat.) of LOmsen lake. The road to
Snaasen (see above) now runs oflf to
the rt., the main road continuing
through forests and over marsh
lands, with occasional large farms,
until it begins to dip (affording a
pretty glimpse of the Beitstadfjord)
down to
5Btvik (15 kil., pay for 17).
Hence the fjord is skirted to Molde
bridge, where the road curves round
the head of the fjord, with FosncBS
on a considerable height to the rt.
The shore of the Beitstad- fjord is
next followed to Osen, at the most
northerly extension of the Trond-
hjem fjord, and then a small river
as far as Sprdten fann, where a
deseent is made into the hollow of a
valley. Hence to a bridge at Tomdng,
where the road begins to wind in long
zigzags, and then crosses a large
marsh, with farms on either side of
the valley, to
Elden (15 kil.) Good quarters.
The traveller has now reached the
NamdalsMe, A good deal of bog-
land is passed on the next stage.
Elden (Acts) ch. will be seen to tiie 1.
The Aarg<mrd river will be crossed
to Aargaard (12 kil.) in pretty
scenery, and thence to AasruBSf where
the Lyngen fjords a smaU branch of
the Namsen fjord f will be approached.
Thence along the fjord and up a hill
to
Bddhammeren (17 kil.) Namsos
can be reached hence by boat in
about 5 hrs. (10 kr.) Leaving this
pretty place, the road runs over hills
(some heavy) to
Bangsund (16 kil., pay for 22).
The distance by water to Namsos is
12 kil. A branch of the Lyngen fjord
is crossed here on the way to
Spillnm (17 kil.) Travellers often
prefer to take a boat hence to
Namsos (3 kil.) or to drive only to
StrihnhylUiy where there is a ferry
across the Namsen river to
NAMSOS* (8 kil.) (For description
see next Hoate.)
2. Str. to Levanoeb and Stenej^b.
From Trondhjem the str. steers
past Ladehammer into the broad
Strindefjord, where (1.) will be seen
the mouth of the Stjordal, with the
conspicuous white tower of VcsmcBS
ch., as weU as Hommelvikt Gjeving-
aas and Forbord mtns. This is
sometimes a rough part of the pas-
sage, but smooth water is reached
between the point of the Frosten
penin. and the desert island of
Tautra, A Uttle higher up will be
seen the ruins of an old monastery,
secularised after the Bef ormation. A
stoppage is made in 1^ hr. at
Holmberget, where passengers
alight for Froiten. The road to
Vordalen (see above) runs hence.
B(ywte 39. — Trandhjem io Namsos.
166
After passing Facmcea and steering
along the E. coast, the str. stops
at
Veatran, in a pretty bay, with a
view of Ytterlfen.
Ekne ch. is next sighted, and the
fertile and smiling district of Ind-
hered reached. The str. then crosses
over to Ytterijen island, on which are
copper-mines, first worked in 1520,
and stops either at
Vault on the W., or (in 3| hrs.
from the city) at
Hokstad. Some of the strs. stop
at places on the W. shore of the
fjord, especially at Leksviken, in a
pretty bay dotted with large farms.
In the latter case they steer direct
from Holmberget, or stop at Vanvik
and Hindrem. From Leksviken, the
direct course to Stenkjcsr is along the
W. coast, and to the W. of YtterO&n,
Stoppages are made in a bay on the
mainland at MosvikeUy from which
point the Skamsond is entered.
From Ytteroen, where a view wiU
be obtained of the SkJcBkerhatj the
fjord is crossed to
Hol sa nd en, in a bay on the main-
land. Thence along a flat, well-
cultivated coast, on which will be
seen Alstahcntg ch, A point is at
last rounded, and a course taken to
the rt., towards Levanger. Some-
times the str. steers direct from
Hokstad for
LEVAKGEB (about 4 hrs. from
Trondhjem). The scenery is now
charming, and on a fine summer's day
not to be surpassed in beauty. A stop-
page is made at SkauncBS^ close to
Rindleret (see Posting-Boute), and
sometimes at VcBrdalsHren, the valley
of that name opening out occasionally.
Thence the course is over to Trones,
or direct to
Hylla (see Posting-Route). A view
of the Trondhjemsf jord, and a glimpse
of the Oraakol, A pretty long spit of
land which separates the Borgen fjord
from that of Trondhjem is next
rounded, and StrGmmen (good quar-
ters) passed on the way to
SondnsBshavn. Hence a road to the
BolBbakkernQ, well known for the
grand view afforded over Inderdent
YUerHent and the 2 fjords just
mentioned. There is also a road to
Vferdalsoren (15 kil.), and another
across the fertile Inderd penin.,
past Sakshaug oh. and the ruins of
the older edifice, to Brakstad, &g.
From
Sjerringvik, to the rt., the Skam-
sund is re-entered, and a stoppage
made at the pretty, well-cultivated
point,
Yenn»8, where the Beistad fjord
opens out. To the 1. the Vcerrand-
sund runs far inland. A stoppage is
sometimes made at Skjelstad. Steer-
ing to the rt., the str. stops again
at
Malm, or Kirkncesvaag, and pro-
ceeds thence to
STEKKJiER (see above, Posting-
Boute).
[Occasionally the str. goes up to Fosnces,
at the N. end of the Beitstad fjord, where
runs a road (12 kil.) to Elden (see above).]
ROUTE 89.
TRONDHJEM TO NAMSOS.
(By Str.)
[Distance, 230 kil. ; time, about 17 hrs. ;
fare, 12.40 kr, ; board, 5.60 kr. per day. This
section of the Northern Coast Route is not of
much interest, and if the voyage is to be con-
tinued beyond Namsos it Is advisable to take
at once as much rest as possible, for the nights
farther N. are very attractive in the height
of summer. The mail strs. leave late
at night. (Consult time-tables for sailings,
which vary.) Berths should be secured on the
previous day. There are telegraph stats, at
most of the stopping-places.]
From Trondhjem the str. makes
first for Bauberget or Beian (see
166
Route 89. — Trondhjem to Na/msos.
Bte. 35), and puts in to a consider-
able number of places which require
no special mention. After passing
the small Oarten island, the course
is inside Fosen (Stor Fosen) island.
The Orlandt with its ch., and Adhaitg
farm will be to the rt., where soon
the inlet to Bjugn fjord is reached.
To the 1. will be seen the flat and
bare Tarv islands, within which the
str. proceeds after passing the high
red Kjeungen lighthouse. Farther
N. very httle shelter is afforded by
the islets and rocks to the W. The
rocky belt on the other side of the
Fro-Hav is composed of the Fro Oer,
The str. soon turns into the
Valdersond (89 kil.) Jdssund ch.
on the E. side. Hence over a small
open stretch of sea outside the mouth
of the Aafjord^ on the N. side of
which will be seen high precipitous
mtns. devoid of vegetation. Inside
LidncBS and Stok islands is
Stoksund. There are several large
Caverns in this neighbourhood. An
octangular Ch, will be seen here on
the mainland. To the 1. is Almen-
ning islandy the quarries on which
supplied white marble for the flooring,
&o., of Trondhjem cath. Grossing
the SkjUrafjordy the str. reaches the
well-sheltered harbour of
Sydkrogo (KraahQ) (126 kil.)
There is a very large Cavern here.
Passengers will already have noticed
the quaint NordlandsjcegUt or vessels
with a peculiar raised cabin and a
high prow, and rigged with a square
sail and a topsail. They are mostly
laden with dried flsh or timber for
Bergen. A continued northerly course
past BjGmUr ch. and across some
more open sea, brings the str. inside
B(ird island and into the small shel-
tered bay of
Bessaker (141 kil.) Thence, the
bare coast, fringed with islets and
rocks, is kept close on the rt., and
after passing Osen ch. the str. stops
at
Bamso (156 kil.) Here begins the
open, sometimes uncomfortably bois-
terous, stretch of sea called the Folden,
which ia entered ^er passing Bo^o
light. It takes, however, less than
2 hrs. to reach smooth and sheltered
water again. In fine weather, the
strs. steer inside a chain of rocks
known as the Qrundene. Bounding
Villa lighthouse, the str. makes
for
Bjoro (192 kil.) Oysters are found
here. The white marks on the rocks
(and sometimes white planks in the
water) are devices for attracting
salmon to imaginary waterfalls, where
they are met by nets. Steaming next
inside some low-lying islands, with
the Flatanger coast to the rt., the
vessel turns into the
Namsen fjord. Its shores have
the same rocky character bA the coast
previously passed, the cliffs on the 1.
side being the steepest. These in-
crease in height as the fjord is
ascended, and the scenery becomes
altogether prettier. Far to the E. is
visible the summit of the Qjeitfjeld.
The mouth of the Lyngenfjord and
several small islands will be left to
the rt., and, steering for Mcerances
headland, the str. soon runs into
NAHSOS « (280 kil.) BHt Vice-
Consul. This is a town (1850 inha-
bitants) charmingly situated at the
mouth of the Namsen river. It has
been almost entirely rebuilt after a
great fire in 1872, which destroyed
also a wood on the hills to the W.
The new Ch. stands on a rocky eleva-
tion in the centre of the town, from
which a pretty walk can be taken
along the posting-roads leading N.
and E. The export trade is chiefly
in timber. There are large Glass-
works close by.
The chief attraction of Namsos is
its splendid salmon-river (see " Ang-
Ung " in Inirodv>ction)y but, as all the
fishing is leased to EngUsh sports-
men and retained in very firm hands,
no casual opportunities of casting a
fly are available.
Huge districts in Nordland have
been leased by a Norwegian, who lets
out elk-shooting y principally to
sportsmen from Germany. (Inquire
at Namsos. Charges high.)
The beautiful valley through which
Route 40. — Namsos to Mosjoen,
167
the river flows will be admired on the
following
[EXCUBSION to the PiSKEM F08.— The
starting-point for this can be either Spillum
(see preceding Route) or Namsos. From the
latter the stats, are
Hmm (15 kil.) The road from Spillum
joins in the vicinity ; Haugum (11 kil.) ; Vie
(17 kil., a great fishing centre) ; Fossland
(11 kiL) ; and Fiskem (17 kil., good quarters).
Tlie Fiskem pos, one of the most beautiful
waterfalls in Norway, is first sighted on the
last stage, after ascending a magnificent
ravine and reaching the old Ch. of Harran,
which is ownetl by the English proprietor of
one of the farms at Qartlandy lower down.
Steps (189) lead down (rt. of the road) to
the waterfall, which is more especially worth
seeing in May and Jnne. In Aug. its
Tolume is frequently smalL The Namdalen
Tourist Association has erected a pavilion
from which the fos can be admired. Being
100 ft. in height, but not quite vertical, the
further ascent of salmon is arrested here.
MosjSen (^V^sen\ described in the next
Boute, can be reached from Fiskem, with
much toil and discomfort, in 4 days (171 kil.)
The few who will undertake this journey
must consult Prof. Y. 'Sie\Bi&a!s Reisehaand-
bog.}
KOUTE 40.
NAMSOS TO MOSJdEN (vEFSEN).
(By str.)
[Distance, 178 kiL ; fare, 9.60 kr. (Consult
time-tables.) Several of the mail strs. ascend
the Yefsen fjord. A local str. runs up it on
other days from S&vik and 8andnes^6en^ when
the voyage must in such case sometimes be
broken.]
On leaving Namsos the str. tarns
into the Sdroikawnd^ the heights of
which are clad with pines that, far-
ther N., are no longer seen so near the
sea. To the rt. is a pretty bay, at the
head of which will be seen the Hos-
'pital at Alhvs (8 kil, b^ road from
Namsos). Thence the Bi^sundy be-
tween Oter6 and J6en (QjUben), is
crossed, the cliffs to the rt. having a
reddish colour, whence the name of
the Sound. The str. touches at
Foslandsosen (20 kil.), in a pretty
bay. Some of the strs. cross thence
the Foldenfjordj threading their way
among the numberless islets and
rocks to
AppelvsBr (25 kil.), on a small
island at the mouth of the inner Fol-
denfjord. About 1 hr. of open sea
has to be encountered here. The
next Stat, is
Sorvik (15 kil.), on the Vikna
group of islands. The highest mtn.t
tops on them are the Stdlafjeld (607
ft.) and Dragstinden (525 ft.) The
next stat. is
BisvsBr (12 kil.), situated and well
sheltered between low islands. A
little beyond (1.) is Le^d island. Pass-
ing inside the latter, the traveller will
see on its S. side Lektjmben^ a curi-
ously shaped mtn., traditionally re-
presenting a giantess whom the
Hestmumd (see next Boute) wooed
without success. The arrow he
launched against her was intercepted
by a friendly hat (now Torghatten),
while the arrow remains as an up-
right stone on one of the neighbour-
ing islands, the sun having through
the hole in the hat petrified the lady
as well as the arrow. She is conven-
tionally saluted by those who pass
by. The str. sometimes stops at
Skei farm, where there is a large
barrow, partly disturbed. The next
stat. is sometimes
Oatvik (26 kil.) This is the last
stat. in the prefect, of N. Trondhjem.
A road (11 kil.) runs across to the
Bindal fjord. The southernmost
(the Norske Buk) of the 3 pointed
Heilhomene mtn. -tops is the high-
est seen at the head of a valley
to the rt. of Gutvik, and is some-
times covered with snow late in the
summer. . Torghatten, and the snow-
sprinkled Seven sisters beyond, have
already been in sight. The Melsten
fjord is next crossed. Melstenen, the
small island to the rt,, was anciently,
168
Route 40. — Namsos to Moajoen.
according to a legend, inhabited by a
piratical couple. Next is the Bindals-
fjord, which spreads out in many
branches, one of which is the wild-
looking Tosenfjord. It is ascended
by a local str. from BronnO (see
below), several times a week, as
far as Teraak and Heilstad, The
salmon-fishing here is good. The
S. boundary of Nordland is reached
at HelgelandsflcBS.
After passing KvalU (at which
some of the strs. stop), the snow-
capped Flaafut will be seen to the
rt. on the mainland, and next to it
the high, precipitous HallangsklQv,
Steering into the Torgfjordt the str.
occasionally enters the charmingly
situated and excellent little harbour
of
85xim»8 (d8 Ml. from Gutvik).
The TraVncbshat can be ascended
with a guide in about 4 hrs. This is
the best starting-point for a special
visit to T(yrghatten, the hole in which
is seen as the str. proceeds N. of
Leko. The tourist strs. anchor
off Torgeti one of the most famous
islands in Nordland, and on which is
the great object of interest at this
part of the voyage, viz. :
TOROHATTEN, or the ** Hat of Target " (after
the name of a family which held as far back
as the 14th cent, the farm of Torget on the
island), has at a distance (from near LekS)
the appearance of a broad-brimmed hat,
which has given rise to the legend above re-
lated (at Lek3). The island is a gigantic
rock of gneiss rising to a height of about
8S6ft. At half its height it is perforated by
an orifice through which the light is seen,
and which appears to have been produced by
the degradation of a mass of mica in the
gneiss of the rock. It has also been sug-
gested that its original formation is due to
the action of the waves when the sea stood at
that level, an enlargement having later been
produced by disintegration. The whole
length of the tunnel is 640 ft., and its smooth,
partly vertical walls give to it a height that
varies from 65 ft. to 230 ft. From the open-
ing, the floor of the tunnel sinks considerably,
and after a flat piece rises again towards its
other extremity. The southern opening,
which is like a gigantic ch. portal, affords
a remarkably fine view of the rocky islets
to the S. No traveller, if he have the
opportunity, should omit a visit to this
wonderful cave. Access is easy enough by a
well-trodden path, though made partly over
marshy groimd, and necessitating at last a
slight ascent over boulders. It is not
fatiguing even for ladies.
Steering now through the Br&nnG-
sundy surrounded by low islands,
while the horizon inland is backed
by high precipitous mtns., and with
the parish Ch, to the rt. in a narrow
channel, the str. puts in at
Bronno (10 kil.), an old centre of
trade in Nordland, and the starting-
point of a local str. that runs to
VcBgen^ to the grand Velfjord and to
the Bindal (see above).
Some of the strs. stop at Vsegen,
the large island out to the E. Cross-
ing over the outer part of the Vel-
fjord, a small channel will be en-
tered with Hestun island to the 1.
On the mainland is Hoiholm, with
the Sletfjeld and the H&iholm peaks
rising over a flat part of the coast,
on which is situated, in a pretty
birch -wood, Vivelstad, with a ch.
While some strs. stop also at Tro-
berg, others have their stat. at
Forvik (30 kil. from Bronno), and
proceed S. of BddQ to the low but
pretty island of
Tjotto, the property, in the early
part of the middle ages, of a family
celebrated in Norwegian history, and
later held by the Archbishop of
Nidaros (Trondhjem). Hence there
is a fine view of Vsegen island to the
S., and of the "Seven Sisters" to
theN.
. Strs. bound direct for Bodo take
hence the course outside the large
island of Alsten, stopping at Siyoig
and Sandnessjoen, while those bound
for Mosjoen (61 kil.) steer for the S.
arm of the Vefsenfjord, The " Seven
Sisters " stand out more and more in
individual prominence, but without
any arithmetical precision as to their
number ; while beyond Bodo rises
the conspicuous Finkms to a height
of more than 4000 ft.
Bordered at first by low grey clififs,
the Vefsenfjord becomes very im-
posing as the str. ascends to its head,
which is bounded in the distance by
the frequently snow-capped summit
of the Brurskanke (4333 ft.) Valleys
run down on either side, the largest
Route 41. — Mosjoen to Bodo.
169
N. shore^ watered by the
leading to SGr-Banen. On
i will be seen a considerable
of cultivation, whilst the S.
almost uninhabited. At the
i the Vefsend-hund, on its N.
2 a valley, at the entrance to
is HalsHen^ when the str. dls-
.*ks passengers for
WOEir* (Vefsen), Brit. Vice-
*Z. This town (pop. 1150) lies
Iplain through which the Vefsen
jf (as well as the Skjerven) dis-
pgues after running a course of
^fit 130 kil. It is, in fact, a con-
lation of the Stisen-elVy which
k on the Swedish border. The
h prosperous trade of Mosjoen in
»er has dwindled away, but it ex-
J /ts game, skins (from tanneries),
/ /jnon, fish-guano (2 mills), and
h I /en some silver ore from mines in
je Svenningdal. There is also a
K>d deal of boat-building, especially
^ boats of a new type (with 2 masts),
/rhich are successfully competing
^ ffith those of the old Nordland form,
iJ^ Ooth for use at the sea fisheries and
V' lor the carrying of cargo. Incorpo-
V rated as a "loading-place" only in
V 1874, Mosjoen has so far no public
buildings to boast of, but it has a post
and telegraph office, 2 schools, and
*\^ a ch. Two medical men and a
chemist supply the requirements of
the sick.
Travellers, and especially an^Zers,
~ij will be more and more attracted to
this splendid northern district by
I- the advantages offered to them on
1 the
F VEFSEN ESTATE,* several hundred sq.
mUes in area, owned by the British ♦* North
of Europe Land Co." It consists of the
Svenningdal, the parallel Feplingdal and
HcUfjeldddly and the Stuendal valleys that
run S. towards Namdalen, while on the E.
the property extends to the Swedish frontier
and on the N. towards Ranen (see next Boute).
Amongst many smaller lakes in the Hatfjeld-
dal is the ROsvand (1476 ft. above sea-level,
and 111 Eng. sq. m. in area), one of the
largest (second to Lake Mj'dsen) and most
beautiful inland lakes in Norway, bordered
by picturesque mtns., including the Xjerring
find (4100 ft.), the Brurskanke (4333 ft.), and
the 0*«rt»der»e. (6820 ft.), with their grand
and interesting glaciers. Out of the 168
^
farms owned by the company, 100 are dis-
persed over the Hatfjelddal, and 30 of these
dot the shores of the Rbsvand. The accom-
panying map shows the position of the lakes,
the roads and distances to them, and the
houses {Svenningdal and FJeldbcekmo Homes*)
where, as well as at many of the farms,
accommodation is procurable. We have
only to mention here that the trout'flshing
in the lakes and streams of Svenningdal
is scarcely equalled in Norway, In the
Maivand, more especially, the fish run to
an average of several pounds. Three huge
salmon-ladders have been blasted out of the
rock at the Forsjordfoi, Ldkifos^ and Felling fos
on the Vefsen river, to enable salmon to
ascend to the waters owned by the company,
which meanwhile owns sdlmon-flshing rights
in the Fust-elv, on a property about 5 kiL
from Halsben.
The V^sen river (see "Angling" In Intro-
duction) has long been known as one of the
best for its size, for salmon. The fishing
below the falls above mentioned is in firm
British hands, but the completion of the
ladders will no doubt open out many oppor-
tunities to new-comers. In 1891 the total
quantity of salmon killed in the Vefsen dis-
trict amounted to about 1800 lbs.
Shooting. — Elk and bears can be shot on the
company's estate. The ptarmigan-fihooting is
also good.
EOUTE 41.
MOSJOEN (vefsen) TO BODO.
(By Str.)
[Distance about 230 kil. ; fare about 12 kr.
(Consult time-tables and previous Route for
voyage to Sandnessj6en.)'\
From Mosjoen the str. descends
the fjord and enters a channel be-
tween the mainland and the large
and cultivated island of Alsterif at
the N. end of which the Leirfjord
runs in. Bounding that island, and
steering in a more W. direction,
through a sound, the main route to
the N, is joined at
170
Route 41. — Moyden to Bodo,
SandneBBJden (good quarters), a
hamlet situated on the N. side of the
same island (Alsten) as Siivig (see
Bte. 40), and from either of which
places the "Seven Sisters'* (Syv
Sbstre), more than 3000 ft. high,
can be ascended. The most westerly
peak is called the Stortindy after
which come the Kvastind and the
Tvillinger (" Twins "). On a ridge
running from the Stortind in the
direction of Alstahaug ch. is a large
cavern (the Svarthul, or "Black
Hole"), to which a robber-legend
is attached. Botnet farm, 7 kil.
from Sandnessjoen, is the best point
from which to ascend the northern-
most of the peaks, which are in
reality 6 in number. A slight divi-
sion of the summit of one of the
group raises the number to 7. The
highest is known as the Digertind.
There is no grander or more charac-
teristic view in Nordland than from
the top of one of these peculiar
peaks.
Near the N. end of Alsten is Stam-
ncBS ch.j close to the district Prison.
Beyond, the str. proceeds between
the mainland and DUnnesHt amongst
the fine mtns. on which is the Aak-
vikfjeld (2625 ft.), with some large
caverns. The next stat. is
Kobberdal, on Lokta island (about
15 kil.) The course hence is towards
Huglen island, which is kept to the
1. Beyond it is Toma island, with
high, pretty mtns. Lovunden and
Trcmen islands are seen far to the
N., while, looking back to the S., the
" Seven Sisters ** will be seen for the
last time. At Nesne^ the entrance is
reached of the BanenQord, which
some strs. ascend to HemncBS ; only
its S. side is wooded, but the scenery
becomes prettier higher up. At the
head of it are high mtns. that border
or are in direct connection with the
great Svartisen ice-fields and glacier
(see below). The strs. stop at the
mouth of the great, broad SGrRanen
fjord, which runs in to the S.
Hemnses, « which lies on a spit
between the 2 fjords, is a place of
Qonsiderable trade in timber, as well
as in boats and coffins made in the
neighbouring districts.
The upper part of the 22an€n riyer,
which is ascended by a rough, tiny
str. to Korgen, is good for salrmmy
but the lease of the best pools is held
by an English angler, who has boilt
a pretty fishing-box there.
[Some of the mail strs., as well as a local
str., maintain regular communication with
Ho,* pleasantly situated at the mouth of the
great Dunderlands-elv, Several excursiona
can be made thence, notably to SVARTIBES,
one of the largest (about 66 kil. in length
and 16 kil. broad) and most interesting
of the snow-fields and glaciers of Nor-
way, hitherto but little explored. It covers
the plateau (more than 4000 ft. high) of the
large penin. between the Banen and the
Salten fjords. At the back (E.) of Svartisen
are numerous fine valleys (little frequented),
in which excellent trout-fishing can be had.
At about 7 kil. from Mo, an arm of the
glacier goes down to the Langvand. On the
side fackig the sea it sends a similar branch
down to the Holandtfjord. (See farther,
« GrSnd:*)
Dunderlandsdaleny a broad valley (about
96 kil. long), extends to the N.E. of Mo,
and from the head of it, following a mtn.-
track and the telegraph-poles at the back of
the Svartisen, the SdUdai can be reached. Its
central point, about 60 kil. from Mo, is Bjae-
laanes. The interest of the valley, which is
well cultivated, consists in its caverns, one of
which, at the Langvand^ is 900 ft. long, and
also in the disappearance of its streams under
the ground. The Eiteraa is one of the rivers
that has so curious a course. Lost suddenly
to view, it springs up again, at some distance,
in great volume. The StUvasicuiy which rises
in the Urtvand^ drives underground a miU.
There are also some pretty Waterfalls in the
valley. From BjaelaaneSy the StQrmdalrfos
can be reached by a carriageable road. At
its foot is a marble Grotto. From the Urt-
fjeld (about 4590 ft.) is a wide view of the
Svartisen and the Lofoten islands. The mtn.-
tracks in this region are difficult. Only the
hardy will attempt to climb the heights of
the Dunderdal and the Saltdal, in order to
visit the many Lapp settlements that exist
there.]
From HemnsBS the str. returns,
down the Banen fjord, to NeBne, and,
crossing the Lille SjGnen fjord , puts
in at
Vikholmen, on Huglen island.
Grood quarters.
[Some strs. proceed direct to this stat.,
which is 15 kil. from Kobberdal. Others
enter the ^ore Sjdna fjord, on the S. of which
are some farms perched on terraces that run
parallel with the shor^. The stat, here is
Route 41. — Indre-Kva/ro ; Ornces.
171
Jasg»trand, Occasionally also the str. stops
at Alleren on LurS island. There are fine
vie-v^sof high mtn.-peaks in the Alter sund^
and many interesting excursions by mtn.-
path and row-boat can be made in this
neighbourhood, where tolerable accommoda-
tion is procurable. Bratland (good quarters)
can be reached from Alleren by boat in 15
min. On the way over to the other side of
tlie fjord will be passed a lake, well stocked
-v^ith fine troiU.']
Steering inside LurUt whence the
peculiar mtns. on the Trcsnen island
group, as well as the HestmandOf are
visible, and skirting a coast grandly
mountainous, and tenanted by sea-
birds in myriads (in the catching of
which dogs are employed), the str.
next stops at
Indre-KvarS (30 Ml.) A short dis-
tance beyond, the Arctic circle is
crossed (lat. 66'30"). It passes
through the Trsenen islands, a little
S. of the peculiar rock-island known
as the Hestmando, or "Horseman's
Island" (1750 ft.) Passengers are
disappointed at not being able to
realise from the E. side of the island
the appearance of a huge man on
horseback, with a military cloak fall-
ing over his steed. (For the legend
connected with the *' Horseman,"
see Bte. 40.) If desirous of visiting
the Horseman, it will be necessary
to leave the str. at Indre-Kvaro, and
to row across to Anlakken, The
summit is supposed to be inaccessible.
The course now is towards Selsovik
(whence the Melfjord can be visited),
and then across the Qrimen fjord, in
view of Svartisen, towards Bodo, with
its peculiar mtn. called the EGddlGven
(the "Bed Lion"). Grand as the
scenery has hitherto been, the most
interesting part of it begins in reality
here. The coast assumes a still wilder
description; precipitous mtns. are seen
piled upon each other in every variety
of form, some with saw-like ridges
and others with tall peaks, among
which is noticeable the Bloktind^
while above all towers the mighty
snow and ice mass of Svartisen. Pass-
ing the high Bolgen island to the 1.
and OmnesO (with many high and
ragged peaks) to the rt., the course
is set for Or5no, The island last
mentioned divides the inlet to the
fjord of which the innermost branch
is the Holandsfjordt where an arm
of the Svartisen glacier comes down
within 2 kil. of the coast. Meld
island, with a Ch,t soon comes
in view. Steering inside it, with the
same beautiful view of the Svartisen,
the str. stops at
Grdnd, a very picturesque island,
with its woods and its prospect of
fjord, fjeld, and glacier (of which a
striking view is here obtained). After
leaving, the Fonntind will be seen
towering over the Svartisen, as well
as (S.) the pointed Bloktmd and 2
other peaks. The upper part of the
glacier that comes down to the
Holandsf jord (which can be reached
by boat for the purpose of ascending
the Eemdalstind) will also come into
view. Next, the Glommen fjord, run-
ning inland, will be reached, and
sometimes a stoppage made at
OmsBS, other strs. taking the shorter
course inside Meld. There is a splen-
did view hence of the mtns. and of
several ramifications of the Svartisen.
Some of the strs. stop next at StOtt,
an island-group with a Lighthcmse,
Coasting cdong a promontory with
pointed, curiously formed mtns.,
another break in the voyage is made
at
BoTA {SWt'Rota, or Kun/na), Here
is the boundary between the districts
of Helgoland and Salten. The farther-
most islands of the Lofoten group
can be seen hence in clear weather,
and more of them come in view on
leaving Beta. Direct N. are now the
Fttgliiy and the Fleina and Sandhom
islands. Bounding a promontory, on
which stand Oildeskaal ch. and
manse, the str. will sometimes stop
at Sund, while occasionally the stop-
ping places are Indyr and Am^.
With the highest peak of the Sand-
horn (3300 ft.) to the rt., the course
is directed towards Landegode, a
mtn. which here stands out in all its
grandeur. The Beirenfjord is acces-
sible from Sandhom. In a short
time the Saltenfjord is reached, and
at the }ie$kd of ii will be s^en iv chain
172
Route 41. — Mosjoen to Bodo.
of grand snow-clad mtns., including
the gigantic SuUijelma. It takes
about an hour to cross (with a mag-
nificent view) the open Saltenfjord,
after which a run between some low-
lying islands brings the str. to its
anchorage at
BODO « (654 kil. from Trondhjem).
Lat. 67-17" N. Brit Vice-Consul,
The full midnight sun is seen here
from June 4 to July 8.
This town (pop. 3660) is the seat
of the administration of Nordland,
the prefect of which resides in it.
Its appearance is dismal, and the
scenery around of the wildest kind.
The parish Ch. is about 3 kil. to
the E. At the If awse Louis Philippe
stayed a few days, in 1796, on his
way to see the N. Cape. As a fugi-
tive, he travelled under the name of
MtLller. On the outer S. wall of the
ch. is a monumental slab with the
full-sized effigy of a rector [Blix)
who lived between 1596 and 1666.
The road to the ch. passes a pretty
villa (1.) It is worth while driving
or walking about 7 Ml. beyond
the ch. to Mjaavasli farm, on the
Sollivandi for a view of the Sulit-
jelma. S. of the fjord will be seen
rising the beautiful BUrvasimder
(about 3300 ft.), while to the E. of it
are many huge mtns. covered with
snow.
[Most of tbe strs. coal at Bodb, and, being
also dependent on the tide, the stoppage is
generally one of some hours.]
[An ascent of the Voldfjeld (about 1300 ft.)
can easily be made from Bodo in about 4 hrs.
Following the main road until a rough side
road runs up to Void farm (J hr.), a small
valley will be found leading thence to
the 3 reservoirs of the waterworks. The
ascent begins from the N. end of the upper-
most dam, and in 2 hrs. from Bodb the highest
isolated top of the f jeld will be reached, the
return occupying about 1\ hr. The Lofoteu
islands will be seen to the W., and numerous
high mtns. to the E. If time should not per-
mit of this excursion, a good view of the
Lofotens and of the SulUjelma can be ob-
tained from the flat tongue of land immedi-
ately at the back of the town.
A more interesting excursion is to the
SaitslrSm^ a veritable Malstr3m, and much
more remarkable than the one of legendary
and poetic fame in the Lofoten islands. It
is a drive of 17 Ml. to KvaJvaag, on the shore
of the Sctltenfjordy whence a boat can be
taken (1| hr.) to StrCmff, which, together
with Knaplundd island (both in the middle
of that fjord), sepetrates the inner part of the
Skjerttud fjord from its outer part. The tide
rises and recedes through the 3 narrow
channels thus formed, and during the first
and last quartersof each monthroshes through
them with violence so tremendous that no
ship or whale can face it. At sprlng-tid^
when the rise is 8 to 9 ft. (from tlie usual
6 to 6 ft.), the rush of water is terrific. There
is a granite column at Bakmndholm^ com-
memorative of a visit by King Oscar IL in
1873.
Strs. ply from Bodo to the Beierenfjordy the
Siyerstadfjord, and the Folden (^Nordfdlden)
fjord. The first of these is not unlike the
Geiranger fjord in grandeur. Fauske, on the
N. shore of the Skjerstadfjord, and where
there are Marble qtiarries, but only poor
quarters^ is a starting-point for an excursion
to the SULTUBLMA. In about 10 hr& the
terminus of the bocU skyds is attained at
^GnstUy where the traveller wiU sleep (having
brought provisions with him). Engaging a
guide, a walk of about 2 hrs. will bring him
to SkjdnsttidcUy where boat is again taken to
Fagerlidy reached in about 5 hrs. from Skjon-
stn. Hence, with a good available guide, the
ascent and descent of the great mtn. can be
effected in about 12 hrs., without any great
fatigue and with but Uttle danger. The Sulit-
jelma (6230 ft.) was considered the highest
mtn. in the northern part of the kingdom
until the superior height of the fjelds in the
LyngenQord (see Bte. 44) was scientifically
demonstrated.
Those who do not make this ascent should
in any case, when at Pagerlid, climb (in
2 hrs.) the Rapisvari (3175 ft.) to the E. of
that place. There are many other interesting
excursions to be made in this neighbour-
hood with a guide. (Cionsult Prof. Nielsen's
ReiseTuiandbog.)
The Folden fjord can be visited by str.
from Bod'd in 14 to 20 hrs. there and back.
The scenery in it is very fine. The stopping-
places are — Myklebostady Kjerringdy Nord-
folderty at the mouth of that fjord, which is
not farther ascended. On the voyage back
the inlet to the Sagfjord (1.) will be passed.
At Taarnvik stat. is a splendid view of the
high Sifunktind. The Hdstadtindy another
fine peak, will also be seen ; on its onteac side
is the Noevel^jordy while to the S. the Sjunk-
f jord runs inland. A stoppage is made, in
grand scenery, at
BSsvik (67 kU. from BodS). This is a place
of much trade. The sharidy pointed Strand-
iind is visible. Several other small fjords
open out. Soon after the str. passes a re-
markable rivulet which runs through 2
successive gullies, forming occasionally a
small waterfall. The terminus stat. is
Djupvik (82 kil.)
(Consult time-tables for sailings and stop-
ping-places, which vary.)]
BotUe 42. — The Lofoten Islands.
173
KOUTE 42.
THE LOFOTEN ISLANDS.
[1. CommuniccUions. — All the tourist and
yachting strs., as well as the coasting maU
sirs., call at the Lofoten islanda (For the
former, consolt adrertisements ; and, as the
routes and sailings of the noLail strs. proceed-
ing to the N. are changed every 3 months,
consnlt Bennett's time-tables, or apply in
Bergen or Trondhjem at the mail-steamship
offices.) The distance from Trondhjem to
Svolvoer, the starting-point for local steam-
ship routes in the Lofoten and Yesteraalen
islands, is reckoned at 668 kil. (90 Norweg.
naut. m.) ; fare, 36 kr. From Bodo the
distance to the same harbour is 104 kil. (14
Norweg. naut. m.), and the fare 5.60 kr.
B«tum tickets are arailable by the mail
sirs, for 6 months, and can be used both by
the "Nordenfjeldske " and the " Bergenske*'
lines. The strs. of the latter are distinguish-
able by two narrow white rings round the
funnel, and the former by a broad red ring.
Travellers who wish to see more of the
Lofotens than is possible by remaining on
board the mail str& can change at Soolvcer or
BrettarueSf and take the local' str. which goes
up the Raftiund and round the Vesteraalen
group or the northernmost of the Lofoten
islands, returning to Svolvesr or Brettesnaes
in 2 or 3 dys.
Obs, — On the whole of the trip N. much
saving can be effected, when stoppages are
contemplated, by taking return tickets for
the several sections of the route. Reduc-
tions can also be claimed in the case of man
and wife and children. Local strs. are then
used in cases of divergence from the usual
mail route.
(For local strs. from Bodb consult time-
tables.)
2. Geography. — The Lofoten group, bounded
on the W. and N. by the Vettfjordy consists, in
addition to a few small islands, of the follow-
ing 4 large ones, separated from each other
by narrow channels, viz. ; OstvaagS, Vest-
vaagSy Flaistaddy and Moskencesffy the latter
terminating in a bold, abrupt headland called
Lqfotodden or HeUeggen. Connected with
this group are the VesteraaZen islands, of
which Hinds is the largest in Norway. It is
separated from the Lofoten group by the
; narrow Raftsund, the grandeur of which is
i always exhibited to tourists.
I 8. Cod-Jisfieries.~¥iom ancient times the
eod-flsheries of the Lofoten islands have been
celebrated for their richness. In the middle
ages the principal flshing-stat. was at Vaagan
(Vagar). From the middle of Feb. to that
of April more than 30,000 men are en-
gaged, in about 8,000 open boats, in taking
cod with nets or by line on the 3 ledges on
the inner side of the islands (at a distance
of 10 to 13 kil.), to which the fish resort in
order to spawn.
The depth on the first of these fishing
banks is 30 fms., on the second 46 fms.,
and on the third 120 fms. Beyond, no
soundings are obtainable at 300 fms. The
take of cod in the Lofoten fisheries aver-
ages the prodigious number of 30,000,000 fish.
Traders purchase the fish on the spot, and,
after salting them in their vessels, sell them
to merchants in Bergen, Christiansund, and
elsewhere, who dry them on rocks and sell
them as klipfisk ("split cod "), corresponding
much in chiuncter with the Bacalaoot New-
foundland. Out of 30,000,000 fish, about
27,000,000 wiU be salted in this manner,
while the remainder are dried on poles and
sold as stokfiik ("stockfish"). In order to
ensure the fish being properly dried and be-
coming a merchantable article of first quality,
the Government, through an inspector resi-
dent at the Lofotens during the fishing sea-
son, prevents the stokflsk from being taken
off the poles and sold before the end of June.
Cod-liver oil is largely produced at establish-
ments on some of the Lofoten islands, which
also manufacture flsh guano. The roe of the
cod is likewise an important article of export.
It is a curious fact that cows on the northern-
most coast of Norway participate in the bene-
fits of the fisheries by being kept alive in
winter, to some extent, by the admixture of
dried ood-heads with such ma^es as the
scanty vegetation of the country can afford.
The odour of cod, therefore, pervades not
only the air, but sometimes also the milk
locally consumed.
After the cod-fishing is at an end at the
Lofotens, it begins in Finmarken, first in
the neighbourhood of Hammerfest (April and
May), and ultimately at Vadsb, where it
comes to a termination in about Aug. The
average take in Finmarken is about 10,000,000
fish.]
If the traveller crosses the Vest-
fjord to visit the Lofotens on a clear
day he will have the advantage of
one of the finest sea-views in the
world. It is more especially grand
in the spring of the year. In the
months of March or April, when the
snows have not yet melted, and the
morning sun tints all the peaks of the
Lofotens with a rosy hue, the pas-
sage from Bodo over the Vestfjord
opens out a scene of beautiful, im-
174
Route 42. — The Lofoten Islands*
pressive, and matchless grandeur.
No view in the Alps can equal it.
On the S.W. is the open sea ; on
the W. and N. the sharp-pointed
peaks of the Lofotens rise nearly
perpendicularly out of the water,
covered, where not too steep, with
snow almost to the water's edge, until
quite late in the summer. Huge
rugged rooks they prove to be when
approached ; their tops like extinct
craters, now filled with snow. Later
in the summer, as the snow melts,
numerous miniature waterfalls pour
down the sides of the cliffs and,
at the bottom, patches of green and
a few fishermen's huts begin to be
seen, until at length the str. creeps
in through some narrow passage to
a fishing-stat. To the E. of the
Vestf jord, lofty peaks of snowy mtns.
rear their heads far away on the
mainland.
It is impossible to describe method-
ically a route in the Lofoten islands,
since there is much variation in the
stats, at which strs. stop. Practical
purposes will be best served by men-
tioning the principal places frequented
by the strs. :
1. Svolvaer, on Ostvaagd island.
Accommodation procurable. As al-
ready mentioned, this is a centre of
.ocal communication. Over the small
islands that constitute this F^sr, or
fishing-stat., tower high mtns. of
wonderful formation, and amongst
them the SvolvcBrjura^ one of the
most remarkable mtn.-summits in
the Lofotens, apparently inaccessible.
2. Brettesnaes, on Molla island.
Besidence of the Brit Vice-Consul
for the Lofoten islands. Accommo-
dation procurable. A considerable
amount of British capital (Jensen &
Co.) is invested here in* the working
up of fishery products — cod-liver
oil, fish-guano, herrings, (&c.
The channel between the Lille and
Store Molla islands is called the
Molldora. Hence, the local str. on
its way to the Vesteraalen group stops
at
3. Digermolen, at the S.W. point
^f Hindd. Accommodation procur-
able. The German Emperor landed
here in 1889, and, climbing the mtn.
above it, erected a cairn, which he
requested should be left undisturbed
until his return. Travellers are here
in the
4. BaftBund, which separates Hin-
dH from Ostvaagd islands, and where
there is generally a strong current.
This place above all others on the
Northern tour attracts tourists on
account of its scenery, which is of
the grandest description. The freaks
displayed in the mtn.-formations are
exceptional, not only in the Lofotens,
but in the habitable globe. The
most fantastic fj eld-forms are seen
from the Baftsund in the Troldfjordf
to which a visit should not be omitted.
It is a narrow and highly romantic-
looking fjord, with very steep and
high cUffs on either side, and a cas-
cade at the head of it. Leaving the
islands of the Vesteraalen group for
further mention in the next Boute
(which also see for other stats, in the
Lofotens), we need only point out,
among the many solid attractions of
the Lofoten islands, the position and
the real character of the mythical
5. Malstrijm. The dangerous cur-
rent and legendary whirlpool of the
tf alstrbm lies at the S. end of the
Lofoten islands, between those of
Mosketit Vcerdf and Bost Its real
perils are produced by the current
that rushes in and out of the Vest
fjord. Dangerous currents are thus
occasioned between most of the other
Lofoten islands ; but the chief current
runs between MoskeusBS and Vsero,
constituting the famous Malstrom,
locally known as the Hoskdstrom.
When the wind blows from certain
quarters, and particularly from the
N.W., and meets the returning tide
in the Strait, the whole sea between
Moskenaes and Vaero is thrown into
such agitation that no boat could live
in it for a moment. In calm weather
it is only J of an hr. before the flood
tide that the boatmen venture to
cross ; for, with the stillest and most
glassy water outside, the Malstrom is
dangerously agitated, except at the
Route 43. — Sodo to Tromso.
175
period above mentioned. The •' set "
of the tide through the Strait is at
first towards the S.E. ; after the flood
it turns from the S. towards the
S.W., and, finally, towards the N.W. ;
so that in 12 hrs. the circle of the
current is completed. The agitation
of the current rises from an immense
body of water being forced by the
flowing tide into the narrow passage
between the islands, as in the case of
the grander, but less known, Mal-
strom described in the previous Eoute.
The stories of ships being swallowed
up in the vortex are simply fables ;
but any vessel that became involved
in the current would probably be
driven on the sunken rocks and reefs
in the Strait, if it did not founder
from the fury of the waves. The
Malstrom is out of the track of the
Nordland " JaBgts" with their cargoes
of dried fish, and no other vessels are
called upon to take this course.
ROUTE 43.
BODO TO TBOMSO.
(By str.)
[Distance, 364 kil.; time, Iday; fare, 19.60 kr.
(Consult time-tables.)]
On leaving Bodo for the N., the
strs. take one of two routes : (1) by
way of the Lofotens ; (2) by way of
Grbto island.
1. On the first of these routes the
course will be towards either Mos-
kensBS (see last Boute) or Balstad, on
the small island of that name, close
to Vestvaagd. The precipitous Skots-
tinder rises majestically above this
stat.
StamBond is another fishing-stat.
of importance. On leaving it the
str. sometimes encounters the strong
current of the Gimsdstrbm^ and
touches at Oimso, as well as at Lyng-
vaer, on the W. side of the Ostvaagd.
Hence the str. proceeds to
HenningBYSBr, on approaching
which will be seen (1.) the Faagekol,
rising to a height of about 3300 ft.
straight out of the ocean. This has
from olden times been the principal
fishing-stat. in the Lofotens. A Go-
vernment inspector is stationed here
during the fishing season. A fish-
guano factory will be observed.
Sometimes the str. puts in at
Kabelvaag, the most populous of
the stats, in the Lofotens. It is con-
nected with Storvaagen and Kirke-
vaag, where there is a Ch. and Manse.
From this place, SvolvcBr (see last
Boute) is generally steered for, after
which calls are sometimes made at
Br ettesncBS (B>ie. 42). Generally, how-
ever, the str. crosses hence the Baft-
sund and dgsfjordy and, steering
along the S. side of Hindd^ reaches
LodingeiL, where the route, vid Groto,
unites.
2. On the latter, the str. proceeds
from Bodo direct to
Kjerringo (30 kil.), in the Foldm.
The next stat. is
Grots (67 kil.), a pretty place, with
a considerable trade. The Skotham-
mer will be seen rising to the rt. The
Lofotens become more and more
clearly visible, and the great Hindb
is in sight from Grotd, after leaving
which and ascending the Skotsund^
the western group of islands gradu-
ally come into vision. Now the
traveller will be struck with the grand
marine view, lauded in the preceding
Boute, and if the day be bright or the
night fine (which is unfortunately
not often the case in these regions),
the appearance of the Vestfjord an«?
of the Lofoten islands will ever re-
main memorable. Most fortunate are
those who have an opportunity of
admiring the view in the peculiar
solemn light of the midnight sun.
Beyond QrdWt the str. enters the
176
Route 43. — Bodo to Tromso.
Flagsundf and leaving EngdGenj with
the high Stegetind to the 1., it calls
a*
Bogo (89 kil.), whence the Oksnnd
is entereid, and a stoppage sometimes
made at Skutvik. Betuming agaia
to the Vestfjord, where the grandeur
of the scene will now open out to its
full extent, the str. will, after putting
in possibly at SvoIvcbTj Tranb, and
KorsncBS (at the mouth of the 2^3-
fjord)j reach the important stat. of
LODINGEK ^ (163 kU.), on Hindo
island. This is a central point of
str. communication, also a central
stat. of the telegraph. If not travel-
ling by one of the strs. which occa-
sionally runs up the Ofoten fjord to
Victoria havefiy it is necessary to
land here, if a visit to that fjord be
contemplated, and to take the local
str. which plies between Bodo and
Victoria haven (about 5 hrs. from
Lbdingen. Fare, 3.85 kr.)
[The Ofoten fjord.
Prom LMingen the str. proceeds E., up the
Ofoten fiordy a branch of the Ves^fjord, calling
first at Haverases, near which (at Hekle-
strand and Bcdlangen) Marble exists in large
quantities. Copper-mines were worked in
this neighbourhood 200 years ago by the
Danes. Crossing the fjord, the Ch. and
Manse of Eivindnoes are passed. A fairly
good road l^uls thence to Lavangen, where
lioat-skyds can be obtained to Sandtorv,
beautifully situated on ffindS island. The
fjord widens here, and the scenery becomes
impressive.
Liland, the next stat., has a tel^raph-
offlce. On the S. side of the fjord, about
16 kil. from Liland, is the S&jdmen/jord, well
worth a visit for a view of its scenery and
its fine Frostisen glacier. At the request of
passengers, the local str. will run up that
fjord, which can, however, be visited by boat
from Victoria haven or FagemaM (see be-
low). Fairly good quarters are obtainable
at Elvegaard (Skj&menbotten). The glacier is
easily approached thence by boat. The Tru-
(entind in Nordal and the Kongsbaktind^ on
the N.E. shore of the Skjbmenf jord, can be
ascended. Qood mountaineers can cross over
the mtns. from Elvegaard to Stromsnces, in
the Tytfjordy vid the Rysvand and the
SSrskjotndaZ (about 46 kil.) The scenery is
extremely wild and picturesque E. of the
Frostisen. With a guide, from Elvegaard,
SkjangelH, in Sweden (about 46 kil.), can be
ascended from the Skj&melvdal. A copper-
mine was formerly woiiccd there by a French
company. In li hr. from Liland the str.
stops at
YiCTOBiA HAVBK, the termiuus of the rly.
to Lule&f on the gulf of Bothnia, of which the
construction was commenced by a Britisb
company, that failed after completing the
greater part of the section through Sweden,
now worked by the Swedish State. When the
Norwegian sectiou is purchased by the Nor-
wegian Government and connected with the
Swedish part of the line, this will be the most
northerly rly. in Europe, and will afford
an interesting access to Russian Finland
and to an intermediate tract of country as
yet but little known. Commercially, the
rly. is based upon traffic from the iron-ore
deposits of OeUevarafLuossa/para^&nd Kiruna-
varOf in Swedish Lapland, which are computed
to contain over a thousand million tons of
iron ore of the finest quality, obtainable by
quarrying alone. A considerable trafllc in
fish, timber, and other produce is expected on
the extension of the Finnish rly. from Ulea-
borg to Tome^ and of the Swedish Trunk
Line from Ume^ to Boden^ near Lulei. It
will then require only a short rly. from LuleU
to Haparanda in order to place St. Peters-
burg and Stockholm, and the Baltic and the
Bothnian g<2lf, in direct connection with a
port and Qord on the Atlantic that nev^
freeze.
Victoria haven (so cidled after the Crown
Princess of Norway-Sweden, who with the
Crown Prince spent a day here in 1887)
is about 3 kil. in width, and is both pictur-
esquely situated and well sheltered. There
is good anchorage over the whole bay. The
rly. stat., a large building of solid masonry, is
on the N. side of the bay, Fojgernces (good
quarters) lying on a moraine on the S. side,
and Aukenais with its Ch. on the W. The E.
side is formed by the precipitous snow-
capped Fagerncerfjeld (4600 ft.), easily ac-
cessible, and commanding a ma^ificent and
extensive panorama of mtn. scenery in the
Lofoten islands and in Sweden. The fine
Vormtind can also be climbed firom Fager-
nces, which is at the entrance to the Beis-
fMrd.
There is good tront and salmon-fishing in
the neighbourhood of Victoria haven, es-
pecially in the Skjdmenfjord (see above).
Totttty a precipitous peak (4000 ft.) over-
looking the Rombakkeny is also easily as-
cended, even by ladies, from Fosnaes elv,
opposite biford (fair quarters). Its summit
is quite flat, and affords a grand view of snow-
capped mtns., of the sea and fjord, and of in-
land lake scenery as fine as any in other
parts of Norway, if not superior. The Tornea
Traesk lake (in Sweden) is specially worth
visiting by the angler, for it abounds in trout
and ehar. It can be reached by taking a
boat from Victoria Haven or Oijord to Batten ^
where a guide is obtainable. A good road
i runs up through Hundalen and Norddaleny
from the head of which it is an easy walk
across the Swedish frontier to Tornea Troesk.
The Luossarara and Qellevara iron-mines c ii
be reached thence on foot in 3 days, with a
Lapp guide, carrying provisions (up to
50 lbs.) in a knapsack of birch-bark. Trains
run from those mines to LuleS, whence Stock-
holm can be reached by str.
A fairly good road also leads from tlve-
1*
F.S.WaUT.
7'.yir*<^'o*'' •ToABe
Boute 48. — Sandiorv ; Tromeo.
Ill
trd in the Harjanger fjord (reached by
At from Oijord) to Elvences, on the Ora-
ngenfjordy and to Salangen, BardOy and the
Itevandy a splendid lake sarroanded by high
xtns. These northern districts are well
rorth exploring (especially by anglers) even
jefore the rly. is completed throughout its
entire length, which will be 492 kil., including
tlie 40 ML through Norwegian territory.]
From LoDiNGEN the direct route N.
is through the Ramsundf and the
magnificent Fjeldsundj to
Sandtory (193 kil.) on Hindo island,
"where the scenery is very pretty.
The waters of the Troms5 prefect, are
now entered, and the next stoppage
is at
OraBsholmen (208 kil.), another im-
portant trading-stat. on Hindd, the
coast of which is then followed N.
to
Harstadhavn (223 kil.), a large
hamlet. A little to the N. is Tronde-
TUBS eh. Since the middle ages this
has been the northernmost eccles.
edifice of stone. It was considered
to be the handsomest oh. N. of
Trondhjem, and is supposed to be
a remnant of monastic buildings no
longer extant. Beyond, the Vaags
fj(yrd is entered, and then a channel
between Andorga (1.) and Eolla (rt.),
with high cliffs on either side rising
over flat, somewhat thickly populated,
beaches. There is a considerable
Lappish population, partly of mixed
blood, in the neighbouring fjords,
especially in Oratangen fjord. Pass-
ing Ibestad parish ch. the str. stops
at
Havnvik (253 kil.), also a pretty
and well-populated stat., with a fine
view of the mtns. in the Astajjordf
which is later entered. Its sides are
covered with foliferous trees to some
height. Lavanger, a pretty, but
smaller, fjord, opens out of it. Salan-
gen (mentioned under Victoria haven)
is another fjord funning in to the rt.
and surrounded by splendid mtns.
Most of the strs. steer from the N.W.
point of Andorga into the Mjbsund,
and then enter the Faksfjord, the
northernmost branch of the Vaa^gs-
fjord. Farther on, the Fakstind
(8990 ft.) will be seen rising on the
[Norway— yU 92.]
mainland, and the massive Orhostad-
Hnd over Andorga island. One of the
most beautiful parts of this route
begins at the next stat.,
KastzudahavA (260 kil.) Thence
passing through the DyrQTdov, the
str. enters the broad Solberg fjord.
The height of the mtns. increases,
and their dark pyramidal peaks con-
trast finely with the snow-patches
between them, and develop in gran-
deur as the str. proceeds. On the
rt. rise the IstindemCy AlappeUj
Mauken, and Maartindemey around
the MaMsehdal, In the light of the
midnight sun the scenery is highly
impressive. Leaving the Reisen
fjord to the rt., a stoppage is next
made at
Kloven (289 kil.), on Senjm island
(643 £ng. sq. m.)
Passing thence through the Gisund
and crossing the mouti^ of the Fin-
fjord, the coast of the mainland is
skirted to
Gibostad (312 kil.), also on Senjen
island. The new parish Ch. of Len-
vik will be seen on the mainland.
From this stat. most of the strs.
steer for the great Malanoen fjord,
where they touch at
Maalsnaos. Good examples of
raised beaches may be seen on both
sides of the fjord, which extends as
far as the eye can reach. On the
last part of this route, Kvalo, with
the high Blaamanden^y will be passed
to the 1., and a short run thence
brings the str. to its anchorage at
TEOMSO # (364 kil.) BHt. Vice-
CansuL Lat. 69°38' N., pop. 5700.
Founded in 1794, this town is pleas-
ingly situated on the £. side of an
island, in the centre of the fjord from
which it takes its name. It is the
seat of administration of Finmarkeriy
and as such the residence of the
Stiftsamtmand /prefect of the eccles.
prov.), of a bishop, and of various
civil officials. It has several Chs., a
Roman Catholic ch. included. The
MtLsewm deserves a visit for the sake
of its zoological^ botanical, and
mmeralogical collections. The Ethno-
graphical objects include curiosities
N
178
Route AA. — Tromso to Hammerfest.
from Novaya Zemlia. There are
also some antique Chu/rch vesselSy
&c. Lappish costumes are minutely
represented.
Tourists are always recommended
to visit the Lapp encampment in the
Tromsdaly which is reached hy
crossing the Tromsl)Sund in a boat
(10 min.), and then walking over
ground, generally wet (about 1^ hr.) A
family (or rather tribe) of Swedish
Lapps from Karestuindo is encamped
here during the tourist season, with
reindeer and all the other accessories
of nomadic life. They will be found
eager to explain their domestic ar-
rangements and appliances, and more
particularly to traffic in walrus-bone
spoons, slippers, quaint tobacco-
pouches, models of the pulk or sledge
used in Lapland, and of the cradles
in which swaddled Lapp babies are
carried on the backs of their mothers,
&c. The excursion occupies about
3 hrs. All necessary arrangements are
made by the masters of the tourist
strs. Towering over the encampment
is the Tromsdaltind (4040 ft.), the
ascent of which is easy.
A fine view of the town will be ob-
tained from the Floifjelde, on the
opposite side of the sound. It is
sufficient for that purpose to climb
to the StoTSten, in about 1 hr. from
the fjord. A pleasant walk can be
taken on the island itself, where
there are many pretty villas. The
Russian vessels from the White Sea,
laden with rye-meal, timber, Ac, or
loading salted cod, Ac, will be ob-
served with interest. More of them
will be seen on the succeeding
routes.
Local strs, run to neighbouring
fjords, which are well worth seeing,
especially the Balsfjord and the
Lyngen fjord (see next Route).
The whole Midnight sun is visible
here from May 20 to July 22.
ROUTE 44.
TBOMSO TO HAHMEBFEST.
[Distance, 223 kil. ; time, about 24 hrs. ;
fare, 12 kr.]
On leaving Tromsdy this section of
the great northern sea-route is com-
menced by steering for the channel
between BingvassH (with majestic
peaks) and the mainland. Thence,
with hevnd on the 1., into the Grdt-
sund. From this point, the Troms-
daltmd (aee last Route) appears, on
looking oack, in the form of a per-
fect pyramid. The first place touched
at is the small island of
Karlso (59 kil.) A beautiful pano-
rama of mtns. hence to the S. Soon
after, an easterly course brings the
str. to the paraUel of Lyngstv^en^ a
mtn. with a precipitous summit, in
front of which is the Pipertind (about
4000 ft.) and a chain of mighty f jelds.
This is a point from which the local
Tromsd strs. diverge for their trips
up the Ulsfjord and the Lyngen and
Kvcenangen fjords,
[1. The TJmpjobd.-— The grand wildness
of this estuary is worth seeing, its mtn.-sides
rising to 5000 ft. The str. ascends to Kjosen
(quarters procurable) in about 6 hrs. from
TromsS. The SSrfJord, or inner part of the
Ulsfjord, is populated chiefly by Lapps,
mixed up with a few Finns. The str. goes
up to Sdr^jordens Kirkested (" Church-town "),
82 kil. from Tromstt, and about 3 hrs. from
Kjosen. The return to TromsS will occupy 6
hrs.
2. The LYNGKifFJOBD. — Of all northerly,
but little frequented, fjords this is the one
most worthy of exploration. Its grandeur is
practically indescribable in an adequate man-
ner, aiterall theadjectiyes that have been ex-
hausted in descriptions of other ^tuariea. On
some trips the str. aToids touching at
Boute 44. — 8kerjvd ; Hammerfest.
179
Kvitncea, and turns into the Lyngenfjord,
steering between the Pipertind (see ahN>ye) and
the great U15 island (L) The Oamvik
glaciers appear one after the other. One of
tbem descends at Strupen, and from local re-
X>ort it is supposed to hEive made this approach
since about 1760. High mtns. innumerable
are in sight. A stoppage is made at the
AarOftolmey whence the Kaafjord is entered,
and then the great Eidehugt^ when the str.
touches at Lyng8eidet(119kiL from Tromsb),
a pretty place with a parish Ch» and a wood
close by. The OoaJtevarre (4215 ft.) rises
here to the L, and the Fastdalstind (6000 ft.)
to the rt. A road runs hence to loosen (about
^ an hr.) Farther in the Jceggevarre (nearly
6000 ft.) rises close to the Rukritvaggegaim.
To the rt.is soon seen the beautiful ^n^«(to7,
-where a huge glacier comes down to within
about 160 ft. of the sea-level Near this is
Skibotten (good quarters), whence a mtn.-
track runs to Sweden. Beyond, leaving
Nj€iUa>arre (5040 ft.) to the rt., the head of
the Lyngenfjord is attained at Honmns.
The distance hence to the western bounduy
of the duchy of Finland is only about 32 kil.
3. The Kvaenangen is entered after touch-
ing at SkjervS (see below). The- str. visits
Badderen and then ascends the LUle Alten-
fjordy in which it stops at Alteidet (good
quarters). The Joku^fjord can be visited
from this place in order to see a glacier that
comes close down to the water.
The local str. runs also to Sdveien from
MadlsncBS (good quarters). The Bardo/os
can be viewed on this tour. There are roads
in this district through vaUeys of much
interest.]
From the point where the route
hshs diverged to the fjords above
noticed, the str. steers for
Skei3vo(9pidl.fromTroms6). ACh,
and Manse will be seen on the low Fin-
eid spit, beyond which is a fine view of
KaagendxA its glaciers. Several other
islands, also with glaciers, and in view
of the Kvomang peaks, add greatly
to the interest of the scenery. The
Beisen river falls into a fjord in this
vicinity and formerly afforded good
salmon -fishing (see "Angling'' in
Introdttction). At Brynmlen cape^
the bomidary of Fmmarken is
reached. Thence the str. crosses the
mouth of the small Frakfjordj and
soon after passing the Loppekalv
enters a channel between the main-
land and
Loppen (126 kil.), an island, on the
S. side of which the high Bcekstind
rises over the Ch, and Manse of this
somewhat important trading - stat.
Whales are frequently seen in this
vicinity. Steering past the low
northernmost point of Silden island,
some of the strs. enter the open
LcmhaVt and then make for
Hasvik (155 kil.), at the S. point
of 8&rd island, over a sound in
which the sea is sometimes heavy.
Other strs. proceed direct along the
coast of the high and bare StjernQ,
From the SHrGstmd branches off,
almost directly S., the Alien fjord,
communication with which is main-
tained by a local str. from Hammer-
fest (see below). With Seiland
island (230 Eng. sq. m.) to the rt.,
and where the Sorosund contracts,
the course is laid to the small Hjel-
men and Haaja islands, of curious
geological formation, and long kept
in sight. Coasting along Seiland
island (on which are grand glaciers
worthy of a visit), the str. ultimately
rounds FttglencBSf and drops anchor
at
HAHMEBFEST.^ Lat. 70''40'
N. Brit Vice-Consul,
This is the most northerly town in
the world, and was founded in 1787.
Pop. about 2000. In 1809, when its
pop. was barely 100, the town,
defended by 2 batteries mounting 4
6-pounders, suffered much from an
attack by 2 British war-brigs, the
" Snake" and the " Fancy," to which
it was forced to capitulate, on condi-
tion of private property being re-
spected. In 1890 a fire consumed
two-thirds of the principal part of
the town. Its total destruction was
averted mainly by the energetic efforts
of the crew of a British yacht. It Is
being rebuilt in a regular manner, in
blocks, with streets at right-angles to
each other. The Fuglences promon-
tory (the N.W. boundary of the
harbour), with its Light, battery, and
the large house and business pre-
mises of the Brit. Vice-Consul (for-
merly the property of a British
factory), was not reached by the
conflagration. Close to this estab-
lishment is a Qramte pillar^ sur-
mounted by a bronze globe with pro-
jecting axis, inclined to the surface
v2
.i_
180
Route 44, — Tromso to Bammerfest.
of the sea in the same degree as that
of the earth is to the ediptio, bearing
an inscription, of whioh the following
is a literal translation :
*' The northern termination of the meridian
line of 26°2(y from the Arctic Ocean to the
Tireae Danube, through Norway, Sweden, and
Russia, whioh, according to the orders of his
Majesty King Oscar I. and the Emperors
Alexander I. and Nicholas L, and by uninter-
rupted labours from 1816 tol862,wa8 measured
by the geometers of the 3 nation^.
" Lat. 70°i0' 1-13."
On the same spot, or within an
insignificant distance of it, General
Sir Edward Sabine (President of the
Boyal Society), made an important
series of pendulum experiments in
1823. FuglensBS was one of a chain
of stats, extending nearly from the
equator to the pole, at which pen-
dulum observations were made for
obtaining the variation of gravity on
the earth's surface.
The island of KvdWj on which the
town stands, was once well wooded,
but there are no trees left, except a
small birch-wood, 6 kil. in the S. part
of the island. They were cut down
for firewood. Hammerf est is supplied
with much driftwood by the Gulf
Stream. Tyven^ the highest mtn. on
the island, is only 1230 ft. It can
be visited in about 4 hrs., there and
back. Those who do not proceed
to the N. Gape make this ascent in
order to view the Midnight sun^
which is visible here from May 13 to
July 29. There is a cairn on the
summit of Tyven. Numbers of
Lapps will be seen here. They are
a hardy race, and a Lapp will walk
50 kil., through swamp and over
rock, taking only a draught of milk ;
and, after lying down in his wet
clothes, awake next morning as fresh
as when he started.
A lively trade, especially in fish, is
carried on at Hammerfest, which is
more particularly visited for the pur-
poses of barter by Bussian Wllite
Sea craft. The temperature, even in
winter (when the sun is not seen
from Nov. 21 to Jan. 21), is so mild
that the waters along the coast,
and at the uppermost parts of the
longest northern fjords, never freeze.
Sea-fishing in boats is therefore
carried on during the whole winter
in the Hammeiiest district. The
town is redolent of train oil and
dried cod. The other staple com-
modities are skins of ttie polar
bear and silver fox, reindeer skins
and antlers, walrus tusks, eiderdown,
The Spitzbergen trade is of much
importance, and gives to Hammerfest
a more enterprising set of seamen
than almost any other port in Nor-
way.
[1. The ALTEOfVJORD is best reached hence
by local str. (consult time-tables). The str.
takes the channel between K9dl9 and Seiland^
and, later, the Varffsund which separates
Seiland from the mainland. It then enters
the NceverJ^rd (80 IdL), the LarrUfjord (45
klL), and then the Kamagfford (62 Ml.), where
good quarters are obtainable. Thenoe the
course is to the Kor0ord, from which (at
Korsnees) the Ai/ebkfjokd is entered. The str.
touches here at SHU^ard (67 kil.), and then
proceeds to mupvUt and the Retfsbotnen, the
branch of the Altenfjord in which the grreat
Alten rivw disembogues. After stopping at
Bmuelirft and Bugten,it brings up at Bossekop
(89 kil.), the principal hamlet in the Alten
district, and where, notwithstanding the high
lat., rve and oats are grown. Thence,
the point made for Is Stromnces, where lie
the once famous but now abandoned Copper-
tvorks of Kaafiord, worked by a British
company in 1826 and for many years later.
The genial hospitality of its manager, Mr.
H. Thomas, a Obmish mining engines — so
highly respected that, although an alien, he
was exceptionally elected to the Norwegian
Storthing— is graphically described[in Letten
from High LtUUudet by the {Mresent Earl of
•Duiferin and Ara. Many other Eng^shmen
were connected with that enterprise.
The next stat. of Importancels Talvik, and
all other stc^ping-places are so variable that
no useful purpose would be served by their
enumeration.
2. Salmon-Pishing in the Altkn (see
** Angling »• in the Introduction).— Tbia is
firmly let to British sportsmen, and no casual
angler, unless he be a friend of the lessee, has
any chance of casting his fly over the best
water in Norway.
Alten is the most extensive and productiTe
valley in the N., and is in every respect, both
as to climate and style of scenery, different
from the districts which the traveler has
been passing through. Here vegetation rela-
tively flourishes : the fir, the birch, the willow,
and the mountain-ash are abundant ; even
cornfi^ds and meadows are seen.
In -sevond parts of the Alten valley the
traveller will meet with as soft and pleasing
Route 45. — Sammerfest to Vardo and Vadso, 181
scenery as any Alpine country can present ;
indeed the impression on the first yiew is that
of an oasis, formed by nature as a resting-
place in the midst of ruggedness and desola-
tion. Unfortunately mosquitoes swarm here
at times. The Finlanders (iTtwmer), settled
on the Alten, are admirable boatmen.
The general shooting up the valley of the
AJten is good, and the numerous falls of the
river and its tributaries are highly pictur-
esque.
There are some remarkable Marine terraces^
or ancient Sea-heaekes^ in this district, as well
as on other parts of the coast of Finmarken.
Those near the Alten are peculiar, since they
are not continuous at the same exact level
above the sea, but incline in such a way as to
sbow that the coast has not only been raised
bodily out of the water, but in an unequal
manner, the part towards Hammerf est having
emerged less than the part towards Bossekop.
The highest is 240 ft. above the sea.
3. Bouts from Altrit to Ka^utokbino,
Karesuando, and Haparanda (Finland).—
As this journey is but rarely undertaken, the
bulk of the present edition of the Handbook
cannot fairly be increased liy any detailed de-
scription of it. It is a toilsome journey of 10
days, at a cost of 20Z. to 26Z. Kautokeino can
be reached from Bossekop, on foot and by boat,
in S days and possibly in 2, the distance being
about 112 ML The nights have to be
spent in mtn.-huts. Thence it takes about 18
lu:s. to reach, also on foot and by boat. Rare-
suandOy from whioh Mtumiovaara is distant
91 kil. The Muoniokoski (rapids) are reached
here. It then takes 3 days to reach Matakbngi,
close to the Avasaksa mtn., which tourists in
Finland ascend for a view of the midnight
sun (see Murray's Handbook for Russia,
Poland, and Finland). The distance thence
to Haparanda by posting-road is about
80 kil.
4. MTN.-TRACK to Karabjok.— Distance
about 130 kil., through a desert region.
From Karasjok, where a priest, a police-
magistrate, and a merchant will afford as-
sistance, the Tana can be descended by boat
to PolmaJc, Seida, and Nyhorg, in S. Varanger
(see next Boute).
ROUTE 45.
HAMMEBFEBT TO VABDO AND VADSO
(VARANOBB FJOBd), vid THE N. CAPE.
[Distance to Vardd, 334 kil.; fare, 20 kr.
To Vada, 408 kil. ; time, about 32 hrs. ; fare,
24 kr. To the N. Cape, about 100 kil. ; 6-7
hrs. ; fare, 8 kr., and return ticket (16-17
hrs.), 12 kr. (Consult time-tables and adver-
tisements as to the numerous and variable
opportunities of viewing the Midnight sun
at the N. Cape. For the benefit of those
whose chief object is to admire that grand
natural phenomenon, the following table of
the dates at which it can be seen in its several
phases at the principal steamship stats, in
Arctic Norway wUl be of use in the selection
of the routes given in this Handbook :
Bod6
Tbomso
Hammhrfbst
N. Cape
Vard5
Upper limit )
of sun . [
Middle or )
half sun .
Whole sun .
May 81 to
July 12
June 2 to
July 10
June 4 to
July 8
May 18 to
July 26
May 19 to
July 24
May 20 to
July 22
May 13 to
July 29
May 14 to
July 28
May 16 to
July 27
May 11 to
Aug. 1
May 12 to
July 31
May 13 to
July 30
May 14 to
July 28
May 16 to
July 27
May 17 to
July 26
Tourists usually endeavour to bum holes
in their coats and hats, and to light cigars,
by concentrating the rays of the midnight
sun, as a material memento of their Arctic
experience. A good-sized lens is necessary
for the attainment of that object.]
a
From Hammerfest the sir. takes
N.£. course, and after passing
through the hroad iioZsdst^nd, touches,
when hound for Yadso, at
BoUsohavxi (37 kil.), on the island of
Solfsd, the northernmost rocky islets
of' which closely contest with Magerd
for the distinction of being the most
northerly land in Europe. On one of
these, the Fruholm, is the northern-
182 Route 46. — Bammerfest to Va/rdo and Vadso.
most lighthouse in Norway, little
noticed during the 3 months of con-
tinuous summer sunlight, but very
serviceable during the corresponding
long winter's night to the mariner
who has to double the many danger-
ous rocks projecting here into the
ocean. The scenery is wild and
desolate, and not so fine as that left
to the southward. The str. now pro-
ceeds eastward to the next stopping-
place,
Havdsand (59 kil. from Hammer-
fest). Here will be seen a ch., a
shop, and an oasis of comparatively
luxuriant vegetation. The little flat
island of HavG is sheltered from the
N. gales and the ocean by the massive
island of Hjelmsd, standing boldly
before it.
Maaso (74 kil.) is another island on
which is a stat. where the str. some-
times touches before halting at
GJ8BSV8Br (89 kil.), a telegraph stat
and characteristic Nordland Fisk vcBTy
or fishing stat., formed by a number
of flat rocky islets or skerries lying
ofif the W. shore of Magerb.
Grossing the mouth of the desolate
Tufjordf which runs far into Magerb
(now to the rt.), the course is laid for
TuncBs and
KnivskjeBlodden, a long low cape,
which is in reality the northernmost
extremity of Europe, since it projects
a few yards beyond the northernmost
crag of the bold promontory that
rises magnificently a little farther
E., namely.
The NOETH CAPE, m lat. 71° 11'
40" N., distant about 20 kil. from
Ojsesvser. It rises sheer from the
ocean, and in some parts is quite
perpendicular, and in others with
only a few degrees of inclination.
Its generally assumed height is about
968 ft. The weathering of the rock-
face clearly indicates a tendency
to pyramidal lamination. Several
pointed crags stand out boldly on
its W. side. The summit of the pro-
montory is nevertheless so completely
glacier-planed that from the str. it
has the appearance of a smooth
greensward. It is crowned by a
granite Obelisk^ erected in commemo-
ration of its ascent by King Oscar II.
in 1873.
The tourist strs. (as well as the
mail strs. to Vadso, when the latter
are not forced by rough weather to
take the channel between Magero
island and the mainland) approach
the face of the rock very closely.
The former class of strs. anchor for a
time sufficient (about 3 hrs.) to enable
passengers to ascend the N. Cape.
Those who desire to do so are landed
in Horn/oik bay, on the E. side of the
promontory. The climb is facilitated
by a rope made fast to iron stanchions.
On the plateau its extreme point can
be reached by holding on to a wire
rope, purposely provided.
The view from the edge of the
precipice extends over the ocean on
the N., far away towards the Arctic
soUtudes. The Midmght sun is finely
seen from here. Knivskjcelodden is
seen projecting below, with its right
to northward supremacy. Southward
the view is obstructed by the higher
rolling f jelds of Magerd, On the W.
the summits of the lofty islands
Hjelrmd and Bolfsd are prominent
objects ; on the E. the outstretching
promontory of Ejorgosh Njarg dis-
plays its jagged outline, terminating
at the Kordkyn.
There is no particular wildness of
scenery on Magerd, and the sea is
frequently almost calm in the height
of summer. No trees grow upon it,
but the sea throws ashore an abund-
ance of driftwood, which supplies
the inhabitants with fuel. For food
their dependence is upon fish and
wild-fowl, which abound. The Gyr
falcon (so much prized for falconry)
and eagles may be seen here.
The altitude of the sun's centre at
midnight on June 21 at the N. Gape
is about 4°, but by July 26 it has
sunk to 4'.
The glories of the midnight sun
have so frequently been described in
poetry and prose that it is impossible
to portray them in novel forms of ex-
pression. In his Northern Travel,
Mr. Bayard Taylor, the eminent
Route 45. — Kjdvih ; Poraanger Fjord,
188
Ajnerioan poet, has eonveyed the
most graphic, and also the truest, of
cbU piotnres that have been drawn
l>7 pen of that awe-inspiring pheno-
menon, and we therefore reproduce
it. Approaching the Gape from the
direction towards which we are travel-
ling by this Route, he writes :
" It was now 11 o'clock, and Svaerhol t glowed
in fiery bronze lustre, as we rounded it. The
eddies of returning birds gleaming golden in
the nocturnal sun, like drifts of beech-leaves
in the October air. Far to the N. the sun lay
in a bed of saffron light, over the dear
horizon of the Arctic Ocean. A few bars of
dazzling orange cloud floated above him, and
still higher in the sky, where the saffron
melted through delicate rose-colour into blue,
hung like wreaths of vapour, touched with
peaily opaline flushes of pink and golden
gray. The sea was a web of pale slate-colour,
shot through with threads of orange and
saffron, from the dance of a myriad shifting
and twinkling ripples. The air was filled
with the soft mysterious glow, and even the
▼ery azure of the southern sky seemed to
shine through a net of golden gauze. The
headlands of this deeply indented coast — ^the
cai)es of the Laks and Forsanger fjords, and
of MagerS, lay around us, in different degrees
of distance, but all with foreheads touched
with supernatural glory. Far to the N.E.
was Nordkyn, the most northern point of the
mainland of Europe, gleaming rosily and
faint in the full beams of the sun, and just as
our watches denoted midnight the N. Cape
appeared to the westward — a long line of
purple bluff presenting a vertical front of
900 ft. in height to the Polar Ocean. Midway
between these S magnificent headlands stood
the midnight sun, shining on us with sub-
dued fires, and with the gorgeous colouring
of an hour for which we have no name, since
it is neither sunrise nor sunset, but the
blended loveliness of both— but shining at
the same moment, in the heat and splendour
of noonday, on the Pacific Isles.'*
Passengers who remain on board
and are not attracted to the summit
of the Cape by the view, or by the op-
portunity afforded to them of drink-
ing the health of OanUe Norge in
champagne (a temporary restaurant
existing for the purpose), or of joining
in a wild polka (as is occasionally the
wont with tourists), can spend their
time very profitably and pleasantly,
either in sketching, taking photo-
graphs, or in fishing* Lines are pro-
vided on board all the strs. for the
capture of the large cod, haddock,
coal-fish {Sei)t &c., that are found
in great quantities on a bank right
under the Cape. The deck of the
str. is often strewed in all directions
with results of the hauls made by
the passengers and the crew.
Even the mail strs. (when they
have an hour to spare), on their
way to and from Yadso, will in fine
weather give their passengers an op-
portunity of fishing off the Cape.
[Some of the YadsS-bound strs., and es-
pecially in stormy weather, steer inside
Magerdf through the Magerosund, on the
shores of which Lapps, with flocks of rein-
deer, are frequently to be seen. In such a
case the str., after leaving Gjoesvcer^ touches
next at 86r Honningvaag and KJelvik on the
S.E. side of Magerb.]
From the N. Cape, in scenery bleak
and solemn, the course is over the
Homvikt then round the precipi-
tous Ska/rsvaagsnc&rmg, across the
broad Kamdfjordy when, after doubling
the long low cape of HelncMy the str.
puts in at the small trading-stat. of
^elvik (119 kil.) A Ch, will be
seen in a small cauldron-shaped
valley. Hence the str. turns into the
Forsanger fjord, a firth aver-
aging 20 kil. in breadth and
120 kil. long. Its barren and un-
inhabited shores are not attractive,
except when the midnight sun shines
upon them. Boats wUl be seen in
July and Aug. netting 8ei (coal-
fish or pollock ==Ga<2i^ virens), and
the presence of a shoal of those fish
will be attested by the disturbed
state of the surface of the fjord and
by the attendant flocks of sea-gulls.
The 8ei pursue here the Lodde
(Osmerus artictts). In the daytime
passengers will be > interested by
the leaping of the Springhval, or
" Springer " whale (about 12-15 ft.
long), straight out of the water with
the head uppermost, to a height of
6 to 10 ft., and falling back on his
side with a great disturbance of the
surface of the water. This feat will
be noticed in other northern fjords
also. The real whale will likewise
be seen occasionally, both inside and
outside the fjords now being visited.
Travellers are frequently fortunate
enough to see a specimen or two of
184 Route 45. — Mammerfest to Vardo and Vadso.
that monster of the deep on the
voyage to Hammerfest. The distant
spouting of whales will often be ob-
served on this Boate. That action
implies the filtering, through the
"whalebone'* brush with which the
whale is provided on either side of
his mouth, of the gulp he has taken
of sea- water containing the small fish
and minute marine animals on which
he feeds, and which remain in the
brushes. His throat is so small that
a good-sized herrmg cannot pass
down it.
In this fjord the str. touches at
Bepsvaag (126 kil.) The rocks
are curiously weathered. On pro-
ceeding up the fjord the craggy pre-
cipitous promontories disappear, and
low glaciated islands and rounded
hills of moderate elevation prevail.
The str. passes the Tamsd island,
rich in MuUebcer (cloudberry), and
with a stat. on which dovm (eider-
down) is collected, and then reaches
its highest stat. in the fjord, viz.,
Kistrand (163 kil.), {telegraph stat),
on the W. shore, enlivened by a Ch,
and Manse, Farming is seen on the
grassy slope formed by an ancient
glacier-bed. The Laks elv, a very
good salmon-river (see " Angling "
in IntrodtLction), at the head of the
fjord, can be reached hence by boat.
There is also amtn.-path to Rejpvaag,
in the Kvalsund.
Leaving Kistrand, the str. returns
to the mouth of the fjord, keeping
more often on the E. side of it, and
then proceeds round STeerholtkliib-
ben, a headland celebrated for the
sight it presents of hundreds of
thousands of sea-birds perched on
ledges on the face of the rock, or
darkening the air by their flight when
disturbed by the report of a gun or
the sound of the steam-whistle. They
are, for the most part, a species of
gull — the kittiwake. Iq a little bay
just beyond this wondrous feathered
colony the str. touches at
Svwrholt (141 kil.) The inhabi-
tants, once very numerous and pos-
sessing even a ch. of their own, are
largely engaged in collecting the eggs
of the gulls for domestic consump-
tion. Hence, the str. steers S. up
the LakBeQord, an inlet similar in
most respects to the Porsanger fjord,
but not so large. It displays the
same effects of glaciation, especially
in the neighbourhood of the next
stai.,
Lebesby (185 kil.), on the B. side
of the Laksefjord. A parish Ch., a
Manse^ and a store will be seen here.
The slopes of the mtns. are clothed
with birchwood and the bottoms of
the valleys with rich verdure. Re-
turning towards the mouth of the
fjord, the Eidsfjord will be passed to
the E., and after doubling Drotvik-
nceringen promontory the str. enters
the
SjoUefjord. At its entrance is a
curious projectiag and nearly isolated
mass of rock, shaped like a cath. or
castle with square towers, and called
the Fmkvrkene ('* Finns' chs.") The
Finkirkene were objects of worship
by Lapps in heathen days. The rocks
and headlands in this vicinity are
very grand. Finely polished pebbles
may be gathered on a beach at the
head of the fjord. Beyond, the str.
touches at Skjdtningsberg and Sand-
berg. Steaming out into the open
sea, magnificent craggy headlands are
passed, and presently the traveller
finds himself in face of
Nordkyn, the northernmost ex-
tremity of the Continent of Europe,
the N. Gape being an island pro-
montory. It is in reality finer than
the N. Cape, its slaty crags being
more weird and varied in their spiky
outline. It has also a plateau on its
summit. A panorama is now passed
of wild precipitous headlands, with
deep glaciated bays between, and
after touching at Mehavn, where Mr.
Sveyn Foyn has a Whaling establish-
ment, the str. proceeds to
Gamvik (215 kil.) A O^., a store,
and several houses will be seen on
an open plain. Thence the course
is along the unprotected coasts of
the great Z/orgosfe Nja/rg and Van^ag
Njarg promontories, into the
Tana f jord^ flanked by mtns. (2000
Boute 45. — StangencBS ; Va^rdd.
185
to 2500 ft.)» and which, after a stop-
page at FinJcongly'eilent is ascended
to
StangensBS (Vagge), (245 kil.) The
str. touches here for Cfuldhoiment on
the opposite side of the estuary of
the TanUt which is reached by boat
in 1 hr. (6 kil.)
[The Taaa elv is a splendid stream, and
its biibutaries large and numerous. It rises
in mtns. to the S.E.,and is for a longdistance
the boundary between Norway and the grand
duchy of Finland. The sea-trmU fishing is
excellent in the estuary, and salmon abound
in the river (see "Angling" in Introduction).
A great part of the river consists of broad
shallow lakes. Mosquitoes swarm, and there
is no escape from them, except within a tent.
There are no houses on the hanks.]
Tourists who desire to break the
monotony of this voyage can engage
a boat to ascend the river to Seida
and post thence to VadsO, where the
str., left at Stangenaes, can, if neces-
sary, be rejoined in time for the re-
turn voyage. The same route can be
taken (in less time) in the reverse
direction, from Vadso, the mail str.
being in either case caught.
[BY BOAT AND ROAD TO VADB5.
At LangnsBS, about 1 kil. from Oud-
holmen (see above), is an Jnn, where a
boat can be engaged for the ascent of the
TVina, to Seida, about 35 kil., in 3 to 4 hrs.
(charge : 8 kr. p^ boat carrying 2 passengers).
The Elvebaade ("river-boats ") are long, nar-
row, and without thwarts, so that the travel-
ler must contrive to sit in the bottom of the
boat, supporting himself against his handbags
or xwrtmanteau. In the event of his having
a f eHow-trayeller, he and his oompanion must
sit back to back. The boat is forced up the
stream by stagning, or puntiug.
At Seida, where there is a Lapp settlement
and tolerable accommodation, the traveller
proceeds by a grood road to
ITyborg (18 kil.), at the head of the Varanger
fjord^ where a local str. can be taken for
Yads5. If the str. be not caught, the travel-
ler will have to post from Nyborg to Yadaii
(43 kil.) The places passed on the way are
N»88eby. There is a ch. here.
KertauuflBS (quarters at the storekeeper's).
Here is an upright stone of disputed origin.
It is about 9 ft. high, and surrounded by
circles of stones. Near to it, on the S.E., is
a mound similarly encircled.
If time permits, the StoriQeld, commanding
a fine view, should be ascended. It rises
directly behind Mortensnaes.
Xlu1>b«n, above which is the Elubben^eld,
where formerly the Lapps offered saormoes
to propitiate success in the halibut-fishery.
After crossing the Nordre JaodlKB-elv, well
stocked withjff^A,
Finsnas is reached, and then
Paddeby, whence it is only about 11 kiL to
Vads5.
In the course of this excursion the tourist
will be surprised at the luxuriance of the
verdure and the abundant growth of birch-
trees. The costumes of the Lapps and their
earth-covered dwellings (Oamme) are of con-
siderable interest.]
From SiANGENiES the str. returns
down the fjord, and, rounding the
Tanahom (863 ft.), touches next at
Berlevaag, an important flshing-
stat., and, after stopping again (some-
times) at 2 small stats., proceeds to
Maknr (326 kil. from Hammerfest),
a fishing-stat., like Syltefford and
Havningherg^ which are also some-
times visited before reaching
VABDd » « (334 kil.) Lat. .70-22 N.
Brit, Vice-Consul. This town, which
is of some importance commercially
and poUtically (pop. 2400), lies on an
oblong island off the E. point of the
Varjag Njarg. The small fortress of
Vardohus, built for its protection
(originally in the 13th or 14th cent.),
is not imposing in its appearance or
actual efficiency, and is held only by
a few artillerymen under a comman-
dant, who permits travellers to visit
its old walls. A beam from an
ancient house is shown, with the
names of Christian IV. (1699) and
Oscar 11. (1873) incised on it by
those monarchs. The smell of de-
caying flesh of whales no longer per-
vades the town, for, as at Vadso, the
enterprising king of whalers, Mr.
Sveyn Foyn, has closed his estab-
lishments at these 2 stats, and
transferred his activity to other
localities, the whales, formerly so
numerous, having been scared away
by the great number of strs. em-
ployed in their pursuit.
[Travelers will be aware that whales are
now killed with harpoons and explosive shells
* As the Finlanders, even at Vard<5 and
YadsS, disdain the acquiidtion of any foreign
language, travellers coming in contact with
them should be provided with Murray's
Handbook for Btutia, Poland, and Finland^
which contains a inraotioally complete Voca-
bulary, (&o., of the Finnish language.
186 Bouie 45. — Ha/mmerfest to Vcurdo and Vadso.
•fired from a swivel gun in the bow of the str.
A few of these atrs. can still be seen in this
fjord, but a greater Dumber of them are now
employed a little S. of Hammerfest, inside
S5r3 island. Whaling has of late years been
very successfully pursued in the Christiania
fjord, in the neighbourhood of the Fasrder
lighthouse (see Rte. 1).]
The smell of cod drying in the sun
and of boiling train-oil, and perhaps
the odours emitted by a fish-guano
manufactory or two, will, in certain
directions of the wind, somewhat in-
commode the passengers even if they
do not land.
From Varda the course is past
some islands, the inhabitants of
which are engaged in collecting dovm
from the nests of the eider-dtick,
carefully protected by regulations
against extermination.
A stoppage is generally made at
Kiberg, a fishing-stat. much fre-
quented by Bussian vessels. Beyond,
on the low rocky and barren coast,
will be passed several settlements of
Finlanders, immigrants from the
grand duchy, and locally called
KvcBfis, Finally the str. casts anchor
at
VADSd ^ (408 kU.) Lat. 70*4 N.
Brit, Vice-Consul, This town (pop.
2200, mostly Finlanders) lies at the
southernmost point of the Varjag
Njarg, in the great Varanger flord.
It is the residence of the Prefect of
Nordland, and a livelier place than
Vardo, like which it is much fre-
quented by Bussian traders from the
White Sea. The smell of fish pre-
dominates. On a hill to the N. is a
pretty Ch, In the vestry is a picture
(1661) representing the parents who
gave it to the ch. and their 8
children, alive and dead. The Towers
with a curious offertory-box below,
is worth ascending. If not return-
ing by the same weekly str. to Ham-
merfest, the traveller, and especially
the cmgler^ is strongly recommended
to make an
EXCUBSION TO THE SoUTH VaBANQEB
Fjord.
A local str. leaves in correspondence with
the mail str. for that fjord, and after stopping
at Kirkenoes^ on a promontory between the
Kloiterfjord and the Langfjord^ proceeds to
the charming
ElTeiuBS, at the mouth of the Pasvik
river, for the splendid sahnon-fish-
vng in which see '* Angling '* in
the Introduction, Although the
river is generally in British hands,
grayling - fishing, unequalled in
Europe, is available at a short dis-
tance from the house (of the late
Lendsmand Klerk), at which visitors
are comfortably lodged and most
adequately entertained at a small
daily charge. If not bent on fishing,
the traveller can i^scend (about 4 kil.)
the Pasvik, in charge of a Lapp, to
the Bussian territory, which here
juts out, or impinges, under treaty
stipulations, in order to include the
ground on which stands a Bussian
Ch, dedicated to the saints Boris and
Oleb^ The original wooden Chwpel,
or cell, was built about 3 cent,
ago by Triphon, a monk from
Novgorod the Great, who was the
first missionary among the Lapps in
these districts. The resident Rus-
sian priest willingly shows the edi-
fices and relics of which he is in
charge. The local Lapps (about 150),
who are mostly as miserable in phy-
sical appearance as they are in their
economic condition, are called by the
Norwegians Skolter (" Scalp Lapps "),
from a cutaneous disease which at
one time made them all bald. Their
own name for themselves is Nuort-
allas, or "Eastlanders,*' and they
call their Bussian masters Buossaj
while the Finlanders of the grand
duchy are still classed as '* Swedes."
A short walk along the river, over
Bussian ground (accessible without
a passport), brings the traveller
again into Norwegian territory at
the shore of a large lake (full of
fish), which is ascended by boat
(ordered beforehand at Elventes) to
Route 45. — The Marefos ; Lake Ena/re.
187
the Harefos — evidently derived from
the Scandinavian and Finnish word
{Sar) for a grayling. It is surpris-
ing to find so much fine vegetation
(especially birch-trees) at the back of
the rugged barren coast by which this
green oasis of the South Varanger
has been approached.
Enthusiastic anglers, fearless of
mosquitoes and prepared to tent out,
can, after providing themselves with
a passport for the Bussian Empire,
ascend the Pasvik to Lake Ena/re^
in the grand duchy, and enjoy the
splendid trout- fishing^ of which they
will find an account in the charming
and instructive works of Prof.
J. A. Friis, the greatest living autho-
rity on Lapland and on all matters
connected with the most northerly
part of the kingdom of Norway, the
chief itineraries in which have now
been described.
iCS.^fUhr.
[1]
INDEX AND DIRECTORY TO NORWAY.
AAALMENBERG, 83
AABOGEN STAT., 28
AADALENS CH., 57
AADLAND, 113, 123
AADLANDFJORD, 116, 123
AAFJORD, 151, i66
AAGOTTIND, 139
AAHEIM, 137
AAK, 145
AAKEN, 54
AAKLUNGEN STAT., 35
AJLKRB, 93
AAKVIKFJELD, 170
AAL , 55, 120
AALBU, 83
AALEN, 88
AALESUKD, 135, 139, 141
Hotels : Scandinavie and
Sehieldrop't : both clean and
good.
AALEaUNDAKSLA, 139
AALFJORD, 112
AALFOTENFJORD, 138
AALREKEN, 122
AAMDAM, 141
AAMOT, 38, 127, 133
AAMOT STAT., 46
AANDALSN^S. See N^S
AANSTAD, 6i, 79
A^AALDO, 118
AAPO R. [67]
AARDAL'(Sogne), 51, 53,
131. 133
Inn : Klingenherg*s ; com-
fortable and moderate.
Guide (good) to mountains.
AARDALFJORD, 93, 125, 129,
131
[Norway— vi, 92.]
AARDALSR. [671,47
AARDAL8KNVT, 93
AARDALSTANGBN STAT.,
60, 68, 129
AARDALBVAND, 58, 61, 129
AARDQLA R., 61, 129
AAREIMBFJELD, 134
AABGABD, 164
AAROARD R, [67], 164
AARLIVOLD, 84, 148
AARN^S STAT., 28
AAR6 R, [67]
AAROHOLME, 179
AAS STAT., 27
AA8BREKKEF08, 124
AASDALS-SITEB, j6
AASEN, 92, 148, 162
AASEBAL (Mandal), 98
Hotel (large) and Sana-
torium : about 1,200 ft.
above the sea ; pure, in-
Tigoratlng air. Excursions.
Board and lodging for pro-
longed stay, 3 kr. per diem.
Highly recommended.
Fishing in fifteen lakes
at moderate charge. Ptar-
migan and other Shooting.
AASGARDSTRAND, 31
AASNiBS, 164
AASOREN, 60, 78
AASPELIFJELD, 134
AA8TA R., 85
AAVBSTRUD, 55
ADHAUG, 166
MJSM^ CH., 114
^SFJORDy 127
AGA, 118
AGANUT, 117
AGDEN^SFJORD, 151
AKER8HUS CASTLE, 14
AKERaVIKBAY.^S
AKREFJORD, 112
AKSN^S, «5
ALA R.f 51
ALAPPEN, 177
ALASKER, 118
ALDEN ISLAND [33], 137
ALFS-fflTER, 146, 147
ALGJEL, 134
ALHUS, 167
ALLEREN, 171
ALLER8UND, 171
ALMENNINGEN ISLAND,
166
ALSMO, 130
ALSTAHAUG OH., 165, 170
ALSTEN ISLAND, 168-170
ALSVIK, 138
ALTEIDET, 179
ALTENR. [61], 180
ALTENFJORD, ijg, 180
ALTEVAND [69], 177
ALVERSTROMMEN, 126
AMBLE, Z28
AND R., 72
ANDERSNUT, 114
ANLAKKEN, 171
ANDORFJELD 164
ANDORGA ISLAND, 177
ANDRAA (Rendalen), 86
ANDVORD, 60, 61, 79
ANGERKLEV PASS, 117
ANGVIK, 148
APALDSTO, 37
APPELViBR, 167
ABENDAL, 90
Hotels : Schnurhusch, on
quay ; excellent. K, \\-2\
kr. ; D., 3 kr. Grand: Fdnix
(also on quay).
ARNE CH., i2e
B
2]
INDEX AND DIEEOTOBY TO NOEWAT.
ARNEFJORD, xi6
ARNEVAAQ, 12a
ARNO, 171
ASK STAT., 47
ASKDAL, 103
ASKELIHOUG, 47
ASEER, 30
ASKEVOLD CH., 137
ASKO ISLAND, 112, 126
ASPOFJORD, 137
ASTAFJORD, 177
ATLOEN, 137
ATNA STAT., 76, 86
ATNA R., 86
ATNEBRO, 76
ATNEBROEN BRIDaE, 86
ATNEDAL, 86
ATNSJO, 86
AUERDALSFJORD, 50
AUKEN^S, 176
AUMA iJ., 87
AUMA STAT., 87
AUNE I OPDAL, 83
A URA R., 61, 79
AURANFJORD, i6o
AURDAL, 49
AUBE (Soudmbre), 141. Gkx)d
quarters at Martin Vig*s.
A UREBECK LAKE, 6
AURLAND R. [673,132
A URLANDSFJORD, 120, 125,
127, X28, 131, 132
AURLANDSVANGEN, 132
AURSJO lake, 146, 147,
X50
AURSUND LAKE.Bj
AUSTMANLI, 41
AVALDSN^S CH., 102
A VASAKSA MT., 181
B.
BADDEREM, 179
B^QNA R.y 49-51, 57, 58
BiBKKELAGET STAT., 21,
27
BuSJRROSTOLEN, 45
B.£ VERSJETERNAKKEN,
134
BAK, 84, Z48, 149
BAKKA (Nissedal), 92
BAKKE, 61, 115, 132
BAKKEFOS, 52
BAKSUNDHOLM, 172
BALBERG, 75
BALHOLM, 127
Hotel : KvikneU ; good
place for prolonged stay.
Penaion: Landmarks ', gqoA.
Chiide (good) Knut Ktfikne.
BALLANGEN, 176
BALSFJORD, 178
BALSTAD, 175
BANDAR LAKE, yj, 9a, 94
BANDAKSLI, 37
BANG OH., 58
BANQ8J6 [69]
BANGSUND, 164
BARBAKER STAX, 33
BARDO, 177
BARDOFOS, 179
BARKALD, 86
BARKALDENFOS, 86
BATALDEN ISLAND [33]
BATNFJORDSOREN, 140,147
BEIA MT., 55
BEIAN, ISO, 165
BEIRENFJORD, 171, 172
BEISFJORD, 176
BEITELN, 132
BEITO, so, 61-63
BEITSTADFJORD, 163-165
BELLING EN, 86
BENTEBOLLB, 49
BERDALS^TBR, 131
BERQ LAKE, 38
BERG STAT., 25
BERGDAL, 128
BERGEN, X06-X13
Hotels : Holdt's : pleasaut
situation, comer of Engen
sq., with an enjoyable ter-
race. First-class and old-
established, with au excel-
lent table. R. from 2 kr. ;
D., 3 kr. ; B. and S., 2 kr.
each ; table d'hdte, 2 kr.
N.B.— *Sjpirt/« and Ligueurt
are not supplied by the
glass at hotels. An entire
bottle must be ordered.
Smeby's : conveniently
situated close to the prin-
cipal piers. A comfortable,
quiet house. Charges rea-
sonable.
Norge : close to the Old
Park. First-class food, and
charges about the same as
at Holdt's.
Nordsljema : near the
Post-office. Very good.
Bergen and Scandinavie:
very fair.
I^ivate Hotels : Mrs.
OadWs, Mrs. Steen% Marie
Hansen's and Mrs. Blehr's :
all good, with reasonable
charges. Meals can be
taken in hotel Restaurant.
Club : " Den Gode Hen-
sigt," or "Logon" (pron.
Lojen), opposite Holdt*s
hotel. Good Reading-room^
with English and otb,er
newspapers; Library, Sil-
liard-table. Restaurant, Ac
Travellers admitted by a
member for 8 days gratis.
(Jonfectioner : HoltWs
(Magnussen), Yeiten, 8,
near Holdt's hotel ; and
Miehelsen^s, facing Towd
Park.
Anglican Ghoroh Service :
during Tourist Season,
every Sun. at 11 A.M. and
6 P.M., in the " Old Museum ' '
building, Musoe St., close to
the Lille Lungeg<xardsvand.
Supported solely by volun-
tary contributions, which
are also urgently required
for the much-needed erec-
tion of a suitable ch. Dona-
tions towards the building
fund in progress received
by the Brit. Vice-Consul
or the churchwarden, T. M.
Wilson, Esq.
Tourist Oi&oea : Bennett"*,
in the Market place, close
to Holdt's and the Norgre
hotels.
This is a branch of Ben-
nett's old-established Tour-
ist Office in Christiania.
Travellers will here obtain
all the information, advice,
and assistance they may
require,/re« qf charge. Ac-
curate and reliable tours
are planned for any given
number of days, with a
special view to making the
best use of time, arranging
the closest correspondence
with strs. and rlys. at all
connecting points, selecting:
the best Seeping-quarters,
and supplying useful hints
for travelling through the
country.
Drafts on letters of
credit, circular and bank
notes, sovereigns, &o., ex-
changed into suitably as-
sorted Norwegian money.
Rly., str., hotel, carriole,
and carriage coupons issued
for aU the principal routes
in the country, by which
time and trouble are saved,
and comfort ensured.
Travellers' letters taken
care of or forwarded, and
luggage warehoused or des-
patched. Berths secured.
INDEX AND DIBEOTOBT TO NOEWAT.
[3
Rooms at hotels engaged.
Ck)mmissions executed, and
every information relative
to fishing, shooting, &c.,
supplied. The Office keeps
on sale Guide-books, Flu«s&-
books, Time-tables, Books
on Norway, Novels, Tauch-
nitz Edition of British
Authors, Maps, Wood-carv-
ings, Filigree Jewellery, Old
Silver Ornaments, Antiqui-
ties, a large variety of
Norwegian Curiosities, and
Photographic Views of Nor-
way, by the best publishers
and at lowest prices.
Beyer' iy or " Norsk Tourist
Bureau," in Strand st.
The same business, in com-
petition with Bennett.
Post-offiee : Smaastrand
St., leading out of the
Market place (8 A.M. to
7.30 P.M.)
Telegraph-offioe : at the
back of the Exchange.
Brit. Vice-Consul : S.W.
side of Strand st.
TI.S. Consul : Smaastrand
St., almost opposite Fost-
oflice.
Banks : branch Bank of
Norway, Credit Bank, and
Private Bank, at the back
of the Exchange.
Cabs: at a stand in the
Market place, in front of
the Exchange. Fare with-
in the city, 50 to 80 o. For
drives to outskirts, carri-
ages should be ordered from
Livery Stables, at the hotels
or Tourist Offices.
Watermen (Flotmeend) :
in the Vaagen (harbour).
Fare from the Fish-market
Quay to the Custom-house
(Tolboden), 20 d, and 13 '6.
for each additional person.
One fare is charged for
luggage up to 180 lbs. in
weight, and double that
quantity as 1| fare. Water-
men are also stationed in
the Puddef jord harbour.
Porters (Bypud) : ordi- j
nary charge, 50 o. for !
carrying luggage to an '
hotel.
Baths, Warm (Roman and
Vapour), at the Infirmary
(Sygehus)t in Theatre st.
Sea-baths : at MoMenpris^
in the Pudd^ord harbour
and outside the ramparts
(FaBstniugen).
Hairdresser : " Salon de
Bergen," in Olaf Kyrres
St. ; excellent ; also JUrgen-
len's in same st.
Theatre : close to the I
Engen sq. Performances, in |
Norwegian, thrice weekly.
Uuflic : in the Park, at
Lille Lungegaardsvand, be-
tween Olaf Kyrre and
Christie sts. Band plays
sometimes in the midcUe of
the day, at others in the
evening. A military band
also plays in Nygaard
Park, several evenings in
the week.
Huseum : Sun. 11.30 A.M.-
1.30 P.M. ; Mon., Wed., and
Pri. 11 A.M.-1 P.M. At other
times shown by the porter
for a small fee.
Pioture-gallety of the
Art Union : at E. corner of
the Engen sq. Mon., Wed.,
and Pri., 11 A.M.-1 p.m.
Fee, 20 b.
Fishery Agents : Ben-
nett; Beyer.
Shops (English spoken) :
Norwegian AntiquitieSy old
and new Sileersmiths' work ;
M. Hammer. By special ap-
pointment Jeweller to
H.R.H. the Prince of Wales.
Strand st,, 57.
ProvisionSy Winey Tinned
MeatSy &c. : C. Kroepeliens
Enke.y Strand st., 40-43.
Wines and Spirits : whole-
sale and retail. Wingaardy
Market place, 7.
Spirits and Liqueurs : in a
few shops kept by the
Brcendevins-Samlagy a co.
which holds from the city,
for the public benefit, a
monopoly for the sale of
spirituous liquors. (See
"Drives" in body of Hand-
book.)
BookSy Stationeryy Photo-
graphSy <fec. : at Bennett's
and Beyer's (see above :
"Tourist Offices"); also at
C. Floors and E. B. Giert-
sen'Sy Steaud st.
Tobaceonists : Reitners <b
SoHy Smaastrand st., 3 (be-
tween the Market place
and Post-office) ; Eina'r Dahl
(opposite Holdt's hotel).
Furrier : 1. C. Brand,
Strand st. Large assort-
ment of furs, skins (moun-
ted), eiderdown and polar-
bear rugs, stuffed animals
and birds, antlers, &c. This
establishment is well worth
inspection.
2. Kahrs, Strand st.
Chemist : Monrad Krohny
near Post-office.
Fishing Tackle and sport-
ing Requisites : L, H, Hagen
A Co.y between the Ex-
change and Ch. of the Holy
Cross.
Steamship Agencies : C. A.
Gundersen, Strand st., 71.
Wilson Line agent : Ole R.
Olsen. Newcastle Str. Lines :
Bergenske Dampskibsel-
skab Office ; J. C. R. Brue-
nech <fe Son.
BERGSENDENy 115, 133
BERGSFJELDy 114
BERGSUNDy 57
BERLEVAAG, 185
BERSETBR.ERy 130
BERSTOLEN, 56
BERSTOLFOS, 56
BESHEIM (Jotunheim), 62-
64,68
Tourist Hotel : moderate;
boarders received.
BES8A R.y 45, 64, 68
BESSABU, 45
BESSAKER, 166
BESSEG R. [31], 64
BESSES^TER, 60
BESSFJELDy 64, 68
; BESSHO [31], 63, 64, 67, 68
i BESSTRANDFJELDy 64, 68
BESSTRANDS^TER, 60
BESSVANDy 64
BILLINGDAL, 79
BILLINGEN, 79
BINDAL R. [67J
BINDALFJORDy 167, 168
BIRI, 74
BIRKEDALEN STAT., 35
BIRKELAND, 115
BISPENy 145
BITIHORNy 62, 63
BITU R,y 45
BJ^LAANES, 170
BJERKAKER, T48
BJERKREIM R. [64]
BJOBERG, 56
BJOBERGNUT, 56
BJOLSTAD, 58, 60, 77
BJORAANESET, 86
BJORDAL, 126, 136
BJbRElMSKJ^EFTy 104
BJOBGEN, 88
BJ0B.K1!, 135, 141
Hotel : New ; good
BJORKEDALSElDETy 138
BJORKEHORNy 141
BJORNEBOSKETy 118
BJORNEFJORDy 103, 112, 113
BjQRNEKLEVy 146
BJORNELIENS^TER, 80
b2
4]
INDEX AND DIRBOTOBY TO NORWAY.
BJORNERAA, 93
bjOrnesteg glacier,
bjornor ch., 166
bj6rn8vand [69]
bjoneroen, 49
bjonevand lakes, 49
bjornoen, 34
BJORO, 166
BJOROBN, X03
BJOROIA R,t 121
BJORVAND LAKE, 90
BJUaUMFJORD, 166
BLAAFLATEN, 54
BLAAMANDEN, 177
BLAATJERNAA R.,(A
BLAATJERNHULBR^E, 68
BLAAVAND,iis
BLAKER, 72
BLAKJER STAT., 28
BLAKSiBTER, 134
BLEFJELD, 20, 30, 43
BLEIA MT., 128
BLEIE, 1x8
BLODFJELD, 55
BLOKTIND, 171
BLOMSIS-aiTER, 164
BO IN TORDAL, 90
BO, 126
BdAFOS, 54
BOFJORD, 126
BOHN STAT., 72
BOLSET, X48
B03OIEL ISLAND, 103
B6MMELFJ0RD, 103, 112
BONSH^S CH., 19
BORLO, 52, 56
BORO ISLAND, 166
B6RS R. [71]
BdRTEVAND, 39
BORTNiES, 55
BOVERDAL, 58, 67
BOVERDALEN, 78
BOVERDALEN CH., 71
BOVERTJ^ERNHALSEN, 67,
BOVERTUN, 68, 70, 131
BOVERTTJNS-fflTBR, 71
BdVERTUNVAND, 67
BOVRA R., 60, 71, 79
BODLENAKKEN, 129
BOS(J, 168, X72, 175
Hotel: Grand,
BOENFOS [65]
BOFOS, 5
BOGO, 176
BOGSTAD, 22
BOIABR^t X27
BOJUMBRuEEN [30]
BOLGEN ISLAND, 171
BOLKESJO, 43
BOLSO, X47
BOLSTAD, X23
BOLSTAD R. [64!
BOLSTADFJORD, 123, X24
BOLSTADOREN, xi6
BONDAL, 136
BONDDALSNUT, xx4
BONDESUND, 115
BONDHUaBR^E, 1x4
BONDHUSDAL, 1x4
BONDHUaVAND, 114
BONG A R. [67]
BORGENFJORD, 165
BORGTJND (Aalesund), X39,
14X
BORGyND CK, 53
BORiaUALFJORD, 144
BORLO, 52, 56
BORREGAARD, 26
BORREVAND, 31
BORVE, 118
BOSSEKOP, x8o, x8x
BOTNEN, 116, 124
BOTNET FARM, 170
ROTTEN, 40
BRAATEDAL, 79
BRAATEN, 130
BRAKES, XX9, 126
BR^EKKEaTO HARBOUR,
91
BR^MSN^S, 149
BR^BNDHAUGEN, 80
BR^NDHOVD, 129
BRAG EN, 102
BRAGERNiES, 30
BRAEIEN^S, 120
BRAKSTAD, 165
BRANDBUKOL, 48
BRATBAKKEN, 163
BRATLAND, X05, X71
BRATLAND R., 105
BRATLANDSDAL, 105
BRATTEBO, x 15, 118
BRAUTEMOS^TER, 50
BREAHEIM. See Bream
BREDEN, 77, 78I
BREDEVANGEN, 60, 77, 79
BREDHEIMS R. [67]
BREDSJOEN LAKE, 59
BRED8UND, 139
BBSIDABLIX, 58
Hotel and Sanatorium
terms about same as at
Tonsaasen; season, June 8
to Septembers.
BREIKVAM, X05
BREJKVAMaJSKEN, 62, 68
BREILA UPAR R,, 63
BREISN^S, X3X
BREISTOLEN, 56
BREIVE (SsBteradal), 105 '
BREEEB, 91
BREKKENIPPA, 125
BREMANGEN, 156
BREMANGBRLANDET, 137
BREMaNuESHATTEN, X49
BRETTBSNiBS, 173-175
BRETTUN, 160
BREUM, 133, X38
BIIEVIK,89
Hotel : aiametCt,
BRINGE, S3
BRONNO, x68
BR6NN6aUND, x68
I BROKEFJELD, 37
! BROMMA R., 55
BRUDEHULEN, X46
BRUDVICE CH., 123
BRUFOa, 114
BRUNLAAG, 74
BRXJNLAUGN^SET, 89
BRUREaTOL, xi8
BRUR8KANKEN [29] 63,
x68, X69
BRV8DAL LAKE,x^i
BRYGGEN, X37
BRYN, 72
BRYNNILEN CAPE, 179
BUAR, 119
BUARBRjE [32], 42, 119
BUARDAL, XX9
BUD, 149
BUDFJORD, 137
BUER GLACIER, X14
BUGTEN, 180
BUKKEHULaLdFT, 66
BUKKEL.EGER,64
BUEEEN ISLAND, 103, 113
BUKKENFJELD, xo2
BUKKENFJORD, 99, xo2, 105
BULEEN, 123
BULU R., 148
BUNDEFJORD, 23
BUNUT, 120
BXJRUEN, 86
BUSKOEN, 136
BY R., 163
BYGDIX LAKE, 50, 51, 58,
61-63, 67
INDEX AND DIBEOTOSY TO KOBWAY.
[5
BYGDO, x5, 29
BYGLAND STAT., 93
BTQLANDFJORD, 93
BYHRE, 76
BYKLEFJELDENE [3a]
BYKLUM, 93
BYNA R., 84
BYSTENEN, ia6
c.
CECILIEKRONB^ 138
CHABLOTTENBBBG, 28
0HBI8TIANIA, 8
Hotelfl: Fie^orio, close to
rly. stat. and British steam-
ship-quay. A large, old-
established, first-class noose,
with 100 rooms at 3 kr. to
10 kr. Table cPMte (S.30
P.M.), *kr. B. 2.60 kr. 8.
3 kr. Cold and hot baths,
and generally ever^ comfort
and convenience, inolading
English and other news-
papers. English, &c., spoken
(as in all the other hotels
here mentioned). Omnibus
to and from hoteL
Grand H.y in the princi-
pal St. (Carl Johan St.),
10 min. walk from the quay
or rlr. stat., opposite the
Storthing, and near the
palace, the unlvOTsity, mu-
seums, &c. Enlarged 1890,
it has more than 100 rooms,
elegantly furnished, at 2 to
25 kr. Their aspect being
mostly towards the S. they
are more especially cheerful
and warm in winter, when
pension is available on lower
terms than in summer. Table
(ThOte (from 1 to 5 p.m.) at
3 kr. In the handsome res-
tauraut,a light D. (2 dishes)
is served between 1 and 8
p.u. at 1 kr. Excellent caf 6.
Lunch 40 9. to 80 a. i>er
plate. As at the Victoria,
the cuisine is excellent. A
reading-room (with English
and other journals), baths,
an elevator, <&c., complete
the comforts of this highly
recommendable establish-
ment, which also has an
omnibus.
Seandinavie i7., also in
Carl Johan St., midway be-
tween the quay and the
Grand H., on the l.-hand
side. Tliis very good hotel
Uas 60 rooms at 2,60 kr, to
6 kr. D. 2 kr.at any hour.
Table d'hdte (2 P.M.), 3 kr.,
and between 1 and 3 (3
dishes) at 1.50 kr. ; S., 1 kr.
to 1.50 kr. ; B., 1.50 kr. to 2
kr. Hot and warm baths,
reading-room, dsc.
Metropole /T., corner of
Carl Johan and Kongens
sts.; a new first-class estab-
lishment ; centrally situ-
ated.
Britannia H.y near the
quay, on the way (to the L)
to the Victoria H. : an old-
fashioned house, but very
clean and comfortable, with
30 rooms at 2 to 3 lor., in- 1
eluding lights and service. '
Until 1 and after 6 pjc. |
lunch in the caf6 at 40 'o.
per plate. D. d la carte (2
dishes), 1 kr. ; S., cold, 1.20
kr. ; B., with egg, 1 kr. ;
** portions" of meat, ham,
(fee, 60 i5. to 1 kr.
Royal H.y in the rly. stat.
sq., where it has an im-
posing fa/^ade^ close to the
quay ; an establishment
visited mostly by commer-
cial people, and well reputed.
There are 65 rooms at 3 kr.
to 6 kr., lights, Ac, in-
cluded. Table ^h^e(^YM..\
2.60 kr. D., 60 to 80 d. per
"portion"; B., 1 kr. ; S.
(cold), 1.60 kr. Cold and
warm baths, &c.
Martinis /f., kept by the
former porter of the Vic-
toria, where the establish-
ment is recommended when
the latter hotel is full. It
occupies 2 storeys of a large
house in the great market
sq. Excellent accommoda-
tion and food at moderate
rates.
H. du Boulevard^ opposite
Grand H. Conveniently situ-
ated, and possessing an ex-
cellent caf^ and dining-
rooms. B. from 1^ kr. Lunch
incaf^ till 1, and S. after
6 PJf., at 40 to 80 b. per
plate. Light D., 1 to 4 p.m.
(2 dishes), 1 kr. D. 1 to 5 kr.
Private H. iH&telt Gar-
niSy or Pensions) : Nume-
rous. The best are : Scheen's
£[,f in large red house L of
the Storthing. Terms more
modo^te than at hotels. IL,
1.60 kr. to 3 kr. ; D., 3 kr.
Clean and comfortable. The
same may be said of Lar-
sen'Sy alongside (over a cross
St.) of the Grand if., and of
Hansen"* in Tordeusk jold st.
The principal other houses
of the same kind are Schnor-
buscKs (leading to the pa-
lace), Wallen^Sy Aanrud^s,
Hasselman*Sy and Anna
Kure*Sf aU in Carl Johan st.
or its vicinity, and easily
found by their signboards,
or under the guidance of a
porter or cabdriver.
Furnished Apartments
for a short period difficult
to obtain.
Villas, ooimtry, for sum-
mer, furnished or otherwise,
can be hired at very mode-
rate rents in the beautiful
vicinity of city. Apply to
Mr. Paul Due, architect.
Storthing st., or to Tourist
Agency.
Yaleta de Place : T. Winge
(excellent). Apply at Vic-
toria H. ; also Brecke, Grand
H.
Bestauranta: at hotels
already mentioned. Chris-
toffersen'Sf an establishment
more fashionable and some-
wliat sup^or in cuisine.
Charges moderate. The Ti-
voli and Cordial Restau-
rants (side by side), close
to the palace (L of avenue),
can also be recommended.
D., 1 to 5 kr. The Chru-
tiania Steam Kitchen ( Damp-
kjOkken^y ^oirr St., supplies
substantial meals (2 dishes)
until3p.H. at 35 15. and 500.
for the better courses. (For
restaurants outside the city,
see " Drivea")
Caf^s : in Grand J7., in
the PavUion at the head of
the avenue, close to palace,
and generally at the Res-
taurants. Excellent beer
and light refreshments are
also supplied (in combina-
tion with vocal and instru-
mental entertainments) in
the grotesquely frescoed cel-
lars of the "Bazar-Halle"
in Young's Torv (market
place). Also at other places.
(See " Theatres and Music")
Confectionen : GUntheVy
on way (same st.). to Grand
H. ; Baumannf in Ovre Slots
St., which runs ofi! to the 1.
from Carl Johan st., and
Halvorsen^ opposite (S. of)
Storthing.
Beading - Booms : Athe-
ncnmiy opposite B. end of
Storthing. Travellers in-
troduced for a fortnight by
a member. English and
other journals and reviews.
A circulating library.
Oa^i {trille gy d^otke):
6]
INDEX AKD DIREOTORT TO NORWAY.
these are not allowed'.to ply
in the streets for hixie, but
must be fetched from one
of the many stands, unless
accidentally picked up.
Farei : within radius of
city, for 1 person, 40 (J. (I
horse) and 80 b. (2 horses
or caliche^ and in each case
30 'd. additional lor every
person in excess. The cor-
responding charges beyond
the radius are 80 'd. and 1.20
kr., A^ith 30 b. addl. for each
person above 1. When taken
by the hour (within city and
its suburbs), the fare is 1.50
kr. for 1-horse, and 2.50 kr.
for 2-horse vehicles (found
only in the market sq., oppo-
site statue of Christian IV.)
When more than 1 person,
36 and 60 b. respectivdy,
for each, per hour. After 11
P.M. in summer and 10 p.m.
in winter, the initial fare
per course is 80 b. for 1 horse
and 1.20 kr. for 2 horses,
with 20 to 30 b. for each
person above 1. Luggage
carried free : 60 lbs. and
100 lbs. respectively.
Livery Stables {Vogn-
maend) : the best and most
central are those of NyqvUt^
in St. running off Carl
Johan St., from corner of
Grand H. Carriages (with
1 or 2 horses) can be or-
dered by telephone. Fare
for 2 horses, 3 kr. per hr.
Charge for drive to Hol-
menkollen (see " Drives ")
and back, 10 kr. for a
landau and pair. Special
agreements can be made
also for other drives. Rid-
ing-liorses provided. Ny-
qvist's carriages and horses,
as well as those of other
proprietors, are available at
every hotel on application
to porter.
Tramways {Sporvogn) :
their starting-place is in
the Stor Torv. They run
every 5 min. : W. to West-
ern rly. stat. ; N.W. to Ho-
mansby; N.E. to GrUner-
Ibkken ; and S.E. to Oslo
(see City plan). Fare (16 b.)
slipped into glass box.
Driver changes money up
tolkr.
Small Strs. ply from the
Jernhanebrygge (parallel
with quay for British strs.)
to places on the fjord (as fax
as Frederikshald and Tdns-
berg) and to the islands in
the Bundefjord (see "Ex-
cursions"), and from the
quay in Fiperviken (the
harbour W. of BjGrviien,
where the ocean and coast-
ing strs. lie) to Frederiks-
borg on Ladegaardsb
(Bygdb) penin. (every half-
hour), and to Oscars-liall and
Bygdb sea-baths frequently.
Boats can be hired at the
Piperviken and Custom
House quays and at the
" Baadf orening " (under E.
side of Akershus castle), at
1^ kr. per hr.
Kly. Stata. (E. and W.
lines). (For situation, see
Plan.)
Posting-Houae : the stat.
is at 12 Pilestrcedet. Horses,
carrioles, &c. can be ordered
at Bennett"* Tourist Agency.
Porters and Messengers
(£ybu(l) : distinguished by
numbered brass badges on
caps. They stand close to
Vor Frelse Ch. (Carl Johan
St.), iu the small sq. near
Storthing, in Hotnansby,
and also await trains and
strs. Tariff'. 20 to 50 b.
per errand or 20 to 60 b. per
package carried, according
to distance and weight.
Post and Telegraph-
office : corner of Carl Johan
and Kirke sts. Open from
8 A.M. to 8 p,M. ; Sun. 8 to 9
A.M. and 6 to 6 p.u. Letter-
boxes in various parts of
the city, at principal hotels,
and on board Messrs. Wil-
son's mail strs. Correspon-
dence, <Sio., can be posted at
the cliief ofBce until 7.30
P.M., and at the rly. stat.
until 9.35 p.m. Daily de-
livery from abroad early
before noon. Poite restante
registered letters and money
orders can be claimed be-
tween 9 A.M. and 6 p.m.
English letters and news-
papers reach within 3 days ;
Scottish and northern mails
are a day longer. (For
Postage Rates, see Introduc-
tion.) There is a weekly
parcels post between New-
castle and Chrlstiania. The
Parcels Customs' Office is
in Skipper st. Open on
weekdays from 10 to 3. The
Telegrapl^-^fflce is open daily
from 7 A.M. to 9 p.m., and
also at night for telegrams
abroad, (For RaleSy see
Introduction.)
Telephone: at all hotels
free. There are also several '
stats, for conversations with [
subscribers (10 b.) and from
which messages can also be
sent at a charge of 30 5. to
60 b. for 30 words, accord-
ing to radius.
Banks (open from 10 to
2) : Bank of Norway, in
Bank plads; Norske Credit
Bank, comer of Kirke and
Prindsens sts. ; Christiania
Bank and Credit Kasse, on
W. side of Great Market
sq. ; T. J. Heftye & Son, 20
Tolbod St. ; N. A. Andresen
A Co., 6 Eirke st. ; S. C.
Anderson (also Danish con-
sul-gen.), 4 Prindsens st.
Circular notes addressed to
one of these houses will not
be accepted by any of the
others.
Honey-Changers : Jacob
E. Dybicad, in Carl Johan
St., near rly. and quay ;
P. Hensehien is Co., 22
Prindsens st. Cheques as
well as notes and coin are
also changed at
Bennett's Tourist-Office,
17 Store Strand st., close to
rly. stat. and quay. Here
routes suited to the require-
ments of each traveller or
party, vehicles, harness and
horses, travelling requisites
of every kind, photographs,
Norwegian music, wood-
carving, silver, and anti-
quities, books on Norway,
Murray's and other hand-
books, English novels, <&c.,
arc purchasable. Also trust-
worthy information of every
kind and valuable assist-
ance, and notably coupons
for rlys., posting, and
inns.
The Brit. Cons.-Oen. is in
Carl Johan st., 39 ; the
Amer. Cons., 1 Stener st.
The Anglican Church
(St. Edmund's) is in Mbller
St. (see Plan and Descrip-
tive Paragraph, p. 13).
Service on Sun. 11 A.M. and
6.30 P.M. (see notices at
hotels).
HedicalMen: Physician:
Dr. StabeU, Sehestads st.,
not far from Grand H.
Physician and Surgeon : Dr.
Egeberg, 20 Universitcts
St., a few houses from Carl
Johan st. (court phpi-
cian). Surgeon : Prof. Nico-
laysen, 19 Pilestraedet st.
Oculist and Aurist: Dr. 0.
B. Bull, Akers St., Dr. V.
TJchermann, 26 Prindsens st.
Denfints : Dr. Heide, 6 Stor-
things St., and Dr. Frid-
INDEX AND DIBEOTOET TO NOEWAT.
\y
mann, comer of Carl Johan
and TJniyersitets sts.
All these medical prac-
titioners are of European
eminence, and their fees do
not exceed 5 kr. per visit.
As regard the dentists (who
are numerous), they are
mostly of the American
school, and their work is
ao exceUeut and cheap that
the fare to Norway and
back can be recoupad by
those who require extensive
dental repairs. English per-
fectly spoken by all who
are here mentioned.
Chemists : Nordi^em, in
Storthing st., opposite
G-rand H. ; Smne, comer
of Baadhus and Kirke sts.
(near Victoria H.) ; " Ele-
pTumty^ in Great Market
place.
Baths : Romany ^.,
" Christianiabad," nearly
opposite the university.
Warm tcHt-wcUer baths, on
Victoria terrace. Sea-bath-
ing at foot of Akershus
castle; but the best estab-
lishment ("Bygdo") is at
the extremity of Ladegaard-
^ penin., to which strs.
plyfrequently (see above).
hairdresser : Chr. Erich-
sen (from London), 13
Nedre Slot st.
Shops: (English spoken
Gfenerally). Being nume-
rous, only a few of these
can be mentioned, although
many others are as good.
Silver- and Ooldsmitht :
B. Andersen, comer of
Kirke and Prindsens sts.
Large choice of old silver
and filigree work (specially
recommended for excel-
lence, combined with cheap-
ness) ; J. Tostrup, opposite
Storthing (court jeweller,
&c.)
Furriers : Larsen, 21
Eongen st.
Picture- and Art-dealers:
Blomqvist and Abel, both
in Carl Johan st.
Waterproofs^^ Travelling
BequUites : W. Schmidt
(agent of Tourist Associa-
tion), in Kirke st.
Stationery and Photo-
graphs : R. Andvord, Carl
Johan St., opposite Post-
ofQce. Pinest collection of
photographs at T. Bennett's.
Book- and Map sellers :
Cammermeyer, Aschehoug,
and Beyer, all in Carl
Johan St.
Musie-seUers : Warmnth,
17 Kirke st. ; Hals, 37 Carl
Johan St.
Wine and S^rU Mer-
chants, Tinned Meats, Oro-
teries : P. A. Larsen, close
to Victoria H. ; C. Magnus
andBergwitz, both in Carl
Johan st. ; E. Lexow & Co.,
Tolbod St. ; C. J. Christo-
phersen <& Co., under H.
Scandinavie.
Cigars : Gloersen, near
Grand H., and Jebe, nearest
H. Scandinavia. Havan-
nah and other cigars and
tobaccos (of every brand
used in England) cheaper
than in England.
Norwegian Lapidary
Work : pretty objects in
labradorite, ^enite, granite,
<&a., 39 Carl Johan st.
Noncegian Wood-carvings,
Textile Fabrics, Toys, <tc., at
the " Husflids Magazin,'*
in Eger Torvet, oomer of
Carl Johan st.; also (very
cheap) at the "Tugthuset-
sudsalg," a shop in Stor st.
for sale of prisoners' work.
Fishing-tackle, Ouns, Cart-
ridges, Ac : L. Torgersen
& Co., 6 Carl Johan st.
English flies, and taclde
generally, cheaper than in
London or Edinburgh.
Fishoy Agents : T.Ben-
nett; Theaker and Lam-
mers ; A. Sharpe.
Theatres and Musio :
in summer the Christiania
Theatre (Bank plads), in
which pieces ohly in the
vernacular are performed,
is generally closed.
At the Tivoli (obliquelv
opposite to the university),
an elegant building, lighted
by electricity, and with
pretty grounds, operettas,
concerts, and " varieties "
are given every evening
(except on Sat.) This is
the only place of amuse-
ment available in the sum-
mer for open-air entertain-
ments. A Circus (open to-
wards spring) is attached
to it. A military band
plays daily in the avenue
(Studenterlonden) between
2 and 3 p.m. (on Sun. 12.30
to 1.30 P.M.)
Variety entertainments
and caf6 chantants are to
be found at the Alhambra,
Casino, BazarhcUlen, S0eme-
hallen, and Eldorado music
halls.
The Diorama of Norwe-
gian landscape <&c., is well
worth seeing, at 41 Carl
Johan st.
CHRISTIAN! AFJORD, 6, 89
GHBISTIANSAND, 4
Hotels : Ernst's : close to
steamship pier; excellent.
R., from 2 kr. ; B., 1.60 kr. ;
D., 2.50 kr. ; S., 1.60 kr.
Preus's, in Skipper St.;
good and moderate.
Dagmar, near Cath.
Porterage from pier : 30 b
per trunk to Custom-house,
from which (or from pier)
33 o. to any of the hotels.
Boats from strs. anchored
in the harbour : 13 b. each
person, and 7 b. per trunk
to Dier.
Cabs : within Ist radius :
40, 60, and 80 o. for respec-
tively 1, 2, and 8-4 persons.
Prive to Ravnedal, Krossen,
&o., 80 b. to 1.20 kr. respec-
tively, and half-fare back,
after waiting \ an hr. Fare
per hr. 3-4 kr.
Post-offioe : 26 Kongen st.
Telegraph-office : 16 Ves-
tre Strand st.
Baths, Warm : in Market
pUice (40-60 b.) Tickets at
Elephant-Apothek (chemist).
Sea : W. side of Odderb is-
land, at S.E. end of Strand
St. ; ferry 3 ». Charge 40 b
Ladles : 10 A.M. to 12.
Shops : Books, Photo-
graphs, Ac. : K. C. Grbntoft,
J. Bergen, and C. R. Bergen.
Preserved Meats, Wine,
d;e. : M. Hansen, H. Tran-
berg, Brbderne Hansen.
Spirits : at the Samlag
(Local Option Stores).
Cigars, d:c. : 0. P. Moe,
A. Nielsen, N. E. Norem.
Fishing Tackle : J. B. 01-
sen.
Cartridges, Ac: 0. A.
UndssBl.
Antiquities : Th. Rasmus-
sen.
CHRISTLANSFJELD FOR-
TRESS, 8s
CHRISTLAJTSTEN, 159
GHBIBTIANSUin), 149
D.
DAASN^S, 93
DAL STAT., 7a
DALBAKKEN, 59
DALBERO, 121
DALE, 123, 126, 137
8]
INDEX AND DIEBOTOET TO NOEWAT.
DALEAA R.t x6x
DALES, 37, 38, 82, 93
Hotels : Lcutein't (Tokke-
daieH's) : at piw ; ye^ good
and modwate quarters for
anglers. Bandak and Folke-
vang : on river ; both good
and comfortable. B., from
kr. 1.60 ; B., kr. 1 ; D. kr.
3 ; S. kr. 1.20.
DALETAARN, 150
DALEVAAG, 123
DALHOLBN,87
DALSFJORD, 126, 137, 14a
DALSHEaT, 137
DAMF08, 35
DARBO BTAT., 42
DAVIKEN, 137
DIQER A, 44
DIGERMULEN, 174
DIGERTIND, 170
DIOERVARDENy 146
DIMMELSVia, 114
DINGENiES, 126
DIS^T, 86
DISERXJD, 59, 74
DJTJPDALEN, 142
DJUPVIK, 172, 180
DdOERFOS, 117
DOLEFJELD, 70
DOLERESETy 70
DONEFOS, 136
DONNESO ISLAND, 170
D6NTEF0S, I4S
DOSEN, 131
DOVIK8F08,^6
DdVREFJORDEN LAKE, 61
DOM A AS, 145
DOMBAAS, 81, 82, 147
DOMBESTEN, 137
DOMBRUI BRIDGE, 71
DOMMA R.y 71
DOVRE, 80, 150
DOVREFJELD [30], 65, 80-
831 150
DRAOSTJNDEN, 167
CBAHHEN, 30
Hotels : Britannia (in
StromsQ quarter) and ff.
Central, opposite railway
stat.
Cabs: 40 U. per course
(1 person) ; S-horse carriage
(2 persons), 60 ». Per hr. :
1.10-1.60 kr. Omnibus be-
tween BragernaBS and Tan-
gen.
Post and Telegraph
Offices : at the Exchange.
Banks: Norgea Bank, in
gtromsl} Market place. Prir
vote Bank, in Exchange
building.
Beading - room : Athe-
namm. Strangers intro-
duced for 14 dys.
Theatre : comer of Store
St. and EJrke-pladsen.
Baths : Myhre's, close to
Stromso ch.
Shops : Books, Photo-
graphs, Ac. H. Lyche <fe Go.
Preserved Meats, Wines,
Cigars, Ac, : H. Hansen.
Fishing Tackle, Car-
tridges, Ac : H. Lyche & Co.
DRAMS R. [66]
DRAUGHELLER, 56
DREVJA /?,, 169
DRIVA R. [63], 83
DRIVSTUEN, 83
DRdBAX, 6, 27
Hotels : Badehus : In
main street ; good. Peter-
sen's : Oloee to pier ; good.
Beds (l^kr.) Both moderate.
Restaurant : Hjeldsen's ;
good meals, moderate.
Baths : Sea and warm ;
hot decomposed seaweed
for rheumatism, Ac. ; very
effectual.
DR6ILIERNE, 88
DRONEN ISLAND, X39
DROIA BRIDGE, 88
DRONNINOEN, 145
DUFVED STAT., 163
DUNDERLANDS R,, 170
DUNDERLANDSDALBN,
170
DYNGO, 90
DYNNE8FJELD [29]
DYRDAL, 131
DTRENUT, 40
DYRHAUQ8TIND, 131
DYROKLOV, xtj
DYR8KAR PAS8, 40
E.
EDLAND LAKE, 39
EDO, 150
EGERO ISLAND, 98
EGEBSTr]n),98
Hotels : Sdlvesen's, Jatde-
ren, EllingsenU.
EGGE, i«, 164
Hotel : Oermania ; ex-
cellent food and accommo-
dation.
EGGEDAL, 55
fiqQENIBBAFJELD, 13^
BID CH., 144
EIDANGER STAT., 35
BIDE (Eidfjord), 147
EIDE (Hardanger), xra, 113,
xx6, 120, X24
Hotels : MmUmcCs : close
to fjord; excellent. Jaun-
sen's : A little higher up ;
also good. Telegraph Sta-
tion.
EIDB (Molde), 147
EIDE (MoldeQord), 140
EIDE (Sogne), 68, 131
EIDEBUQT, 179
EIDENUT, 119
BIDET, 88, 128
EIDFJORD, 45, 1x2, 116, 120,
128, 138
EIDFJORD R. [67]
EIDS R. [67]
EID8B0TNEN, 162, 163
EIDSBUGABEN, 62, 63, 67-
New Hotel being erected.
EID8FJ0RD, 184
EIDSFJORDSVAND, i2x
EID8H0RN, 143
EIDSKOG STAT., 28
EIDSTJERNET, 92
EIDSVAAG, 126, X48
EIDSVOLB, 72, 85
Railway Station Hotel;
excellent (winter and sum-
mer). Baths (chalybeate) :
on the Eidsvoldbakke, 5 kiL
from station. R., 4-8 kr. per
week. Board, 2 kr. -per day .
Ten villas and a nice park.
EIKEDALSFOS, X15
EIKEDALSVAND, 115
EIKENEHEST, 138
EIKISDAL MTS., 139
EIKISDALEN, 150
EIKISDALVAND, 146
EIME ISLAND, 102
EINABU, 146
EININGEVIK, 113
EITERAA R., 170
EITREIM, 118
EIVINDN^S CH., 176
EKELANDSFJORD, 1x5
EKELANDSOSEN, xxs
EKERN LAKE, 42
EKKJESKAR, 41
EKLE, 163
EKNE CH., 165
EKRE, 55
EKSINQDAL R, [67]
EKSINGDALEN, 127
INDEX AND DIREOTOBT TO NOEWAT.
[9
EliDEN, 164, 165
ELDREHAUG, s6
ELDREVAND, 56
ELiI, 84, 149
BLLINGSGAARD, 141
BLSTAD, 75, 76
EliVBGAABD, 176
BliVEN^S, 177, 186
ELYERaVANDy^i.
ZLYEKTTM, 85
Hotel: St. Olafs; good
posting station
ELVES^TEB, 67, 71
BLVBTANGEN, 48
EMBRETBFOa, 47
EN ARE LAKE.iZj
ENQELOEN, 176
ENGEN, 84
ENGBR, 49, 57
ERA R. [64]
EBDAL, Z20
ERIDALSFJORD R. [64]
ERISFJORD, 146 "
EBLA2TGSGAABD, 45
ERVIK, 137
ESF, 84, 160
BSPE, X18
ESPEDALEN, 59
ESPEDALSVAND, 59
EBPELAND LAKE, 116, 120
ESPELAND8F0S, 42, 118
BSPEN, 85
ETNA R., 49
ETNE R. [67]
EVAHOER, zx6, 123
Hotel : Morueti's.
EVANQERVAND, 123
EVENVIK, 126
FAABERG, 79, 130
FAANjEB, 165
FAANEFJORD, 93
FiBGERDAL, 130
PiSMUNDLAKB [69], 86, 87
F-fiMUNDSENDEN, 87
F.SBDEB LIGHT, 6, 89
F^RSDALEN, 163
F^RSJO lake, 163
FAGBRDAL, 130
FAGERLID, 172
FAGERLUND, S5
PAQKRNWfl, 50, 6z, 131
Hotels : Fagerrue* : excel-
lent ; Anglican serviee held
there in summer; Post
Offioe close by ; Telmjione
to Frydenland and Ton»-
aasen. Fagerlund : close to
the lake ; very good ; beauti-
ful situation; R., 1^0 kr.;
D., 1.80 kr.
FAGERN^S (Nordland), 176
PAGERN-ffiS (Ofoten), 176
FAOERNJSSFJELD, 176
FAGER8TBA:ND (strand),
44. 133
Hotels : Fagerstrand ; op-
posite pier ; R, 1.50 kr. ;
B., BOd.; D.,2kr. ; S.,lkr.
Ornes : higher up ; moderate.
Conveyances : carriole to
Vaa, 3.60 kr. (6.40 kr. there
and baok) ; stolkjerre, 6.40
kr. and 8.10 kr. (2 persons) ;
two-horse carriage,10-16 kr.,
according to number of per-
sons, 2 kr. per horse addi-
tional when kept over the
night.
FAKSEFJELD [28]
FAKSFJORD, 177
FAKSTIND, 177
FALDSVANDET, 49
FALEIDE, 134, 138
Hotel : Tendens ; occel-
lent ; well adapted for pro-
longed stay.
FALKETIND, 68
FANARAAK, 70
FANARAAKEN [31]
PANEBUST, 126
FANEFJORD, 103, 147
FANNESTRAND, 140, 147
FANTOPT, 122
FARAAEN R., 93
PARDAL, 127
PARET (Sffitersdaleu), 91, 93
FARHOVDR.,^S
PARN-fflS, 61, 129
FAKSTTKI), 08
Hotel : fohmen^*.
F ARRIS LAKE, 34
FARRiaR,,^^
FA8DALSTIND, 179
PASTLANDSSTRAND, 115
PAUSKE, 52, 56, 172
FEDDE, 98
FEDDE FJORD, 98
FEIGEFOS, 130, 131
FEJOS, 127
FELLINGFOS [62], 169
FEMSJOEN, 25
FENNEFOS, 93
FENSFJORD, 126
FEPLINGDAL, 169
FETSUND STAT., 28
FIGGEN R. 167-^, gg
FIKSESUND, 1x6, 124
FILLEFJELD [31], 51, 129
PIMREITE, 127
FINEID, 179
FINFJORD, 177
FINKN^, 168
PINKONGKJBILEN, 185
FINMARKEN PLATEAU
[a8]
PINNE CH., 124
FINNEFJORD, 126
PINNO ISLAND, X04
PINSEDAL, 120
FINSE VAND, 120
PmSHALSEN, 66
PINSN^S, 185
PISKEM, 167
FISKEMFOS, 164, 167
PISKESiETEREK (Suren-
dal), 150
Tourists* Inn (comfort-
able), established by Tourist
Association.
FISKETIND, 29
PISKUM CH„ 42
PIVA, 145
FIVELSTADHAUaEN, 135
Hotel : good.
FJ^RLANDSFJORD, X25,
127, 128, 130
FJELDFROSK R. [70]
PJELDHEIM, 49, 58
PJELDO ISLAND, 102
FJELDSUND, 177
FJETLANDSNUT, 41
FJOSANGER STAT., 122
FJOSANQERVAND, X22
FLAAEN LAKE, 93
FLAAFUT, 168
FLAAMSDAL (Sogn), 124,132
FLA ATE, 14X
PLAAV^R LIGHT, 139
FLAAVAND,27
FLADBERGE, 119
PLADS^T, 148
FLAGSUND, 176
PLAKSTADO ISLAND, 173
FLAKSVAND [66]
FLABKERUD, 57
PLATEBO, 1x5, 116
FLATEBOGJELET, 116
PLATELAND, 94
PLATMARK, 145
FLEINA ISLAND, 171
FLEKKEFJORD, 98, 137
Hotel: Waid's,
FLEKKERO, 4
10]
INDEX AND DIKEOTOET TO NORWAY.
PLESKBDAL VALLEY, 69,
XS9
FLESKEDALS SJBTEK, 69,
70
FLESKEDAL8VAND, 69
FLESKEDOLA, 69
FLISEN R., 28
FLOBERG, 28
FLOIFJELDE, 178
FL0M8 R. [67]
FLOREN, 161
FLOBO, 137, 139
Hotel : Hilmer*8.
FLUBEBG, 49
FLYDALSDJUPET, 143
FLYS-fflTEB, 60, 63
FODVANG CH., 75
FOSDE (Fdrdefjord), 114, 133,
137
Hotels : G. Hafstad's ;
Sivertsen's (good).
FORDE R. [67]
FORESFJORD, 103
FORN^S R., 90
FOKSAA, 82
F0K8TUE, 82
FOKSTUEN ON DOVRE,
81,82
FOLDAL, 82, 148
FOLDALFJELD, 151
FOLDENFJORD,i66, 167, X72
FOLEFOT SVND, 126
FOLGEFONN GLACIER
[32]» 4i» 52. "3. "4. 1 171
1x8, 1x9, 120, 125
FOLGO, 41
FOLLA R., 82, X48
POLSJO, 43
PONDALEN SNOWFIELD,
15s
FONN R., Tis, 120
FONlfFJELD, x6x
FONNTIND, X71
FORBORD, X62
FORBORD MTS., X64
FORBORFJELD, 160, i6i, 162
FORDEFJORD, 133
FORELHOGNA [29]
FORMO, 75
FORMOKAMPEN, 77, 80
FORRA R., 161
FORRADAL, 88
FORSJORDFOS, 169
FORTUN, 60, 67, 122, 129, 131
FORTUN R. [67], 131
FORTUNDAL, X31
FORTUNGALDER, 13X
FORVIK, 168
FOSBAKKBN, 87
F08BRAATEN FALL, 50
FOSEN ISLAND, 150, x66
FOSEEIK, 50, 55
Hotel : Not desirable stop-
ping-place. The Fosheim-
sieter^ 1\ hr. walk from sta-
tion, ta^es boarders; very
good acconunodation.
FOSLANDSOSEN, 167
FOSN^S, X64, 165
FOSJf^S R.,176
POSSAN, X02
FOSSEaAABDEK, 75
Pension : Hunder Gaard ;
good summer quarters.
FOSSEID, 148
POSSELI, X2I, 122
FOSSLAND, X64, X67
POSSO, 45
POSSUM, 35, X64
FOaSUMVAND, X64
FOTLANDSFOS, 98
FRAKFJORD, 179
FRAHNJES (near Stalheim),
124. See ODNiBS
Inn : pretty good.
FREDESIKSHALS, 24
Hotel : Sehultz's.
FREDEBIESTAD, 26
Hotel : Scandinavie.
FREDERIKSTEN, 24
FREDERIKSVJERN, 89
PREDO, 148
PREIDALSTOLEN, 115
FREMRE-GRONNING, 142
FRENGSTAD, 87
PRENGST0EN, 74
FRESVIK, 1x8, 127, 128
FRESVIKFJELD, X28
PRETTEIM, 13a
FRIERFJORD, 35
FRIKEN, 69, 70
PRITZOEHUS, 33
FROJSEFOS, 136
PROIEN ISLAND, 150
FROIFJORD, 137
FROILANDSVAND LAKE,
99
FROISNJBS, 93
PRONINGEN, 128, X31
FROGNER STAT., 72
FROGNERSiETER, 18. See
also HOLMENKOLLEN
FRO-HAV, 166
FROSTEN, 164
FROSTENFJORD, 160
FROSTISEN GLACIER, 176
FRUBALSBR^, 128
FRUHESTEN, 128
PRUHOLM ISLAND, i8i
FRY A, 76
FRYDEirLTJin), 49, 58
Hotel : Sofienlund: not far
off ; recommended ; post-
ing-station ; very good and
moderate.
FUGLEHATJG. See VASEN-
DEN
FTJGLEM, 161
FUGLO ISLAND, xyi
FULGEN^S PROM., X79, 180
FULUFJELD [28]
FUNDSJO, X63
FUREBERGSFOa, X14
FURENIPA, 127
FURNESFJORD, 73
FURSET, 140, 147
FURU8J6, Tj
FUSE, 1x3
FUSSENUT, 135
FUST R. [67]
FUTESPRANGETy X28
FYRESDAL LAKE, 92, 93
0.
GAARDSFJORD, 45
GATsERNE PEAKS [28]
GALDEBERG, 63
GALDE KIBKE, 65, 67
GALDERNE ROADS, 54
GALDHd, 60
GALDHOBR^ERNE [31]
GALBHQPIGGEN, 52, 60, 62
64, 66, 67, 71, 79
GALGOFOS [60]
GALLEBERG STAT., 31
GAMLE HELLESUND, 91
GAMVIK, 184
GAMVIK GLACIER, X79
GAND R., 99
GANDDAL VALLEY, 99
GANDEFJORD, 99
GANGDALSKA VL, 120
QARAAEN, 88
GARBERG, 84, 148
GARDERMOEN CAMP, 72
GAREN, X48
GARHAM:2£BR S^TER, IZ4
GARHAUG,!^
, GARLIE, 84
INDEX AND DIBEOTORT TO NORWAY.
[11
OAIIMO, 60, 79
OABN^S, X22
GABNES, 163
GARTEN ISLAND, 150, 166
GAKTHUS, 57
GABTULND, 167
OA ULA R. [67], 132
GATJPARS-aiTER, 66
GAUPNB OH., 130
OAUPNEFJORD, 130, 131
OATJSDAl, 59, 74, 75
Bonatoxium: Season, June
10 to Aug. 31; about 150
rooms (200 beds). Terms :
single-bedded B., SO-70 kr.
per week ; double-bedded,
70-130 kr. per week ; board,
80 kr. per month ; non-
boarders pay 1^5 kr. for
bed and 3 kr. for board per
day, and 1 kr. per day fee ;
monthly fee for use of Sana-
torium, 26 kr.
Dil. dailY from Lilleham-
mer in 4^ hra Fare, 8 kr. ;
return, 14 kr.
GA USTA [32], 43, 44
OAUSTAKN^^RN, ^ .
GEIRANQERFJORD, 61, 77,
78, X34, 13s, 136, 142, 143
O EI RANGER MTS., 142
GIBOEN, 45
GIBOSTAD, 177
GILDER8KREIA, 128
GILDESKAAL CH., 171
GILLSVAND, 6
GIMN^B, X47
GIMSE, 84
GIMSO, 175
GIMSOSTROM, 175
GISK5, 139
GISNAy 84
GiaUND, TTj
GJiESVJER, 182, 183
GJEONALUNDFJELD, 138
GJEGNALUNDSBR^, 137,
138
GJEITERYQ, 127
GJEITFJELD, 166
QJEITFJELDTIND, 143
QJEITFOSy 143
GJEITHO, 67
GJEITHUS, 126
GJEITHUS STAT., 47
GJEITLANDKQQ, 143
GJELDS^TER, 76
GJENDEBOD, 64, 67, 68, 69
GJENDEBYRNET, 64
GJENDEFELDENE, 66
, GJENDEH6, 63
I GJEITOE LAKE, 58,59,60,61,
I 62, 63-71, 78
I Tourist J^ats. : 1. At the
I W. end of the lake, the GKen-
debod Hospice (managed by
Bagnhild Hove), with 2
houses and about 80 beds,
belonging to the Norwegian
Tourist AjBsociation (good
food and wine). Members
of the Tourist Association
bare priority, and pay less
for a B. Charge very mode-
rate. Guides at Gjendebod :
Guide to BSiseim, 5.60 kr. ;
vid Slethavn, 7.20 kr. ; to
Spiterstulen, 4 kr. ; to Bus-
vand, 2.80 kr. or 3.20 kr. ;
to Eidsbugaren, 2.40 kr. ; to
Bygdin, over the Svartdal,
2 kr. ; to Skogadalsboen,
through the Baudal, 5.20
kr. ; over Hogvaglen, 6.40
kr. ; to Fortun, in the same
routes, 8.80 kr. or 10 kr.
At the Gjendebod the
guides for the ordinary
routes are procured by Erik
Slaalien. Ole Kvittin is a
special guide for the peaks.
To Memurubod the route
may be reversed.
2. The Memurubod (Hos-
pice), on the N. shore of the
lake, about halfway between
its E. and W. end.
3. Gjendesheim (managed
by Anders Busnes), at the
E. end, with good apart-
ments, belonging to the
Norwegian Tourist Associa-
tion, the members of which
have priority. (Other rooms
also supplied by the mana-
ger.) Bedl.20kr. ;B.70b. ;
D. 1.30 kr. ; S. 70 o. Ale 70 b.
BocU charges'. 1 rower —
3.20 kr. for 1 person ; 5-5.20
kr. for 2-4 persons ; 2 rowers
— 6 kr. for 1 person ; 6.80 kr.
for 2-3 persons ; and 8 kr.
for 4 persons. Gjendesheim-
Memurubod : 1 rower — ^2,
2.40, and 3.20 kr. ; 2 rowers
—3.60, 4, and 4.80 kr.
Guides^ d^c, supplied.
GJENDEOSEN, 63
GJENDE08ET [69]
GJENDESHEIM. See
GJENDE LAKE
GJENDETUNGE, 64, 69
GJENDINSJd. See GJENDE
GJERDE, X14, IIS
^JERMXJNDN^S, 144
GJERMUNDSHAVN, 114
GJERTVASBR^, 71
GJEVINGAAS, 161, 164
GJOAA a, 148
GJORA I SUNDAL, 83, 147
GJOOEN, 167
GJ6VIK, 73
Hotels : GjlMk (near
pier). Victoria (short way
up main street). Both very
good.
GJURA, 139
GJUVBR^, 79
OJUVBRJEEN, 65
GJUVLAND, 45
GJUVSJO, 45
GJXrWASHYTTEN, 65
GLAAMA ft., 79
GLITTEREGGEN, 134
GLITTERHQ, 65
GLITRA J2., 65, 66, 68
GLITRETIND [31], 63, 65,
66
GLOMMENFJORD, 171
GLOMMEN R. [67, 70], 26,
72. 85, 86, 87
GLOPPEFJORD, 133, 138
GLOPPENR. [67]
GLOPTIND, 129
GOALSEVARRE [29], 179
GODOSUND, 113
GOKKEBDAL VALLEY, 65,
66
GOKKRA /J., 65
GOKSTAD, 33
GOL CH., 55
GORSVAND, 41
GOSSEN ISLAND, 149
GRAAKALEN, 151
GRAAKOL, 151, 160, 165
GRAA8JDE, 123
GR-ffiSHOLMEN, 177
GRANDE, 142
GRANSHERBED CH., 44
GBANUM, 49, 57
GRATANG EN FJORD, 177
GRAyAB^K,t^
GRA VAFJELD, 67
GRAVBROT, 164
GRAVDAL, 70
GRAVEFOS, 145
GRAVEHALSEN, 132
GRAVEN CH., 117
GRAVENSFJORD, 112, 116,
X17, 120
GRA VENSVAND, 117
GRA VNIIALS, 120
GREAKER STAT., a6
12]
INDEX AND DTBBOTOET TO NORWAY.
OBEFBENBAD. Hydropathic
EttablUhmerU and Santk-
toriutn^ 29
QREJDUNGSDAL MTS., 134
GRIMENFJORD, 171
GBIMESTAD, 116
GRIMEVAND, 122
GEIHO, 91
Hotel: PugerucCs,
GRIMSDAL, 5
ORIMSTAD, 9x
Hotels : Mdller's ; Kiel-
sen's.
GRINDADN MT8., 51
GRIKDAHEIM, 51
Hotels: Vang' » {2X2X0,%.);
very comfortable and mo-
derate. Fagerli (close to
gtat.) ; also highly recom-
mended.
GRINDEFJELD, 51
GBIP LIGHT, 150
GRI8LETJERN, 69
GRiaUNGKNATTEN, 82
GRISUNGVAND, 82
GEJOTA, 66, 79
GRJOTU, 61, 78, 79, 134, 142
GROSAAS, 135
Hotels : Navelsaker's ;
large and new ; moderate
charges for guests and
boarders. Raftesvold's ; also
recommended.
GRO^A /J., 61
GRONELV, 146
GRONFOS, 146
GRONNEBERG, 67
GBONNINGEN, 91
GRONO ISLAND, 171
GRONSDAL, 120
GROTHAUGLIEN, 135
GROTINGSBRATTEN, 86
GROTO, 175
GROmUND, 178
GROVESALEN, 147
GRORTID, 72
GROSFJORD, 91
CROTSALS, 40
GROVE R.y 61
GRUNDENE ROCKS, 166
GRUNGEDAL, 39
GRUNGEFJELD, 39
GRUT, 84
GRYTING. SeeROLDAL
GXJDAA, 161
GUDBRANDSDAL, 59, 74,
77, 138, 142, 145
GUDBRANDSGAARD, $5
GTJDDAL, 114, ^37
OTJDVAHOEN, 125, 132
Hotele : Hansen^s (post-
ing Stat.), R., I kr,; D.,
2 kr. (with ale). HellandTs ;
veryfeir; moderate.
GULA R., [62], 84, 88
GULBRAA, 127
GULDjEBLE, 127
GULDAL VALLEY, 84, 88
GULDHOLMEN, 185
GULDSMEDMOEN STAT.,
93
GULDHORN, 79
GULENFJORD, 126
GULFJELD, 123
GULFOa [63]
GULOSENFJORD, 88
GULSKOGBN STAT., 42
OTJLSVIK, 55
Grood quarters at posting-
stat. New Hotel, with
x6 rooms ; recommended.
GUNDBSO STAT., 31
GUNLANUTEN, 104
GUNVORDAL, 128
GURIDALSSTOLEN, 70
GURSKO, 139
GUTVIK, 167
GYGRASTOL MT., 114
GYRIHAUGEN, ^^
HAA-ELV,S7
HAAGAAOEN, 60
HAAJA ISLAND, 179
HAAKBNSTAD, 60
HAAKON HAAKONSON'S
CASTLE, 74
HAAKONSHELLEN, 103
HAALANDSDAL, 115
HAANUT, 118
HAAR,99
HAAR ie., 98
HA ARE, 41
HAAREBREKKER, 41
HAARSTAD, 84
HAARTEIO [32]
HAASTEINSFJORD, 99
HADELAND, 48
H^G, 53, 56
H^GELAND CH., 93
HJEGERLANDS BRIDGE,
105
H.SRAND, zx6
H^RE, 54
H^TTAf 123
HAFSAAS, X47
HAFSFJORD, 99, loi
HAF8L0 LAKE, 128, 130
HAP8TAD, 133
HAGA STAT., 28
HAGERLUND, 44
HAGESTAD, lao
HALLAND8F0S, 93
HALLANGSKLOV^ 168
HALLINGDAL R^ 47, 55
HALLINGDAL UTS., 132
HALLINGDA LSFJELDENE
C31]
HALSOEN. See MOSJOEX
HALSNO ISLAND, 104
HAKAR, 73, 85
Hotels : Victoria and Jem-
hane ; both near raUwaj stat
and pier and very good.
NorsengU Private Hotel ;
good.
HAMELGROVAND, 116
HAKMERFEST, 179, i8x
Inn.
! HAMMERVANDy 162
HAMREBO, X04
1 HANDE, 50
HANDSPIKJE, 130
1 HANB, X23
HANEKAMBy xx6, 1x7, 118
HANESTAD, 86
HANEVOLD, 34
HANKd BATHS, 27
Season, 1st June to 1st Sept.
Excellent food and aooom-
modation (120 kr. per
month). Fine sea air. A
fashionable, salubrious re-
sort. Pretty detached villas
for families ; all moderate.
Prospectus sent on applica-
tion by post.
HAPABANDA, i8i
HARAM ISLANDS, 139
HARDANGERFJORD, 113
HARDANGER J6KEL [31],
I2X
HARDANGERSKAV, 1x5
HARDANGER-VIDDA [31],
45, 120, 122
HAREFOa [70], 186
HAREGGSiBTER, 8x
HAREIDLAND, 139, 141
HARJANGERFJORDy ijj
HARPEFOSy 76
J HARItAN eg., 167
INDEX AND DIEBOTOET TO NOEWAT.
[13
ZHAHSTADHAVN, 177
IHA-SVIK, 179
IBLA-TFJELDDAL, 169
BLA^TLEBEIiaDAL, 114
HA-TLiESTRAND, X14
TTATTREM, 147
HATTQAN. 162
SCATraXSUKD, xo3« 1x3
Sotels : JtmcuserCs ; Grand ;
both good and moderate.
HATJGSLANDET, 48
HATJGTJM, 167
£rA UK A A, X48
HAUKAAEN FALL, X46
HA UKAAS, 141
HA UKEDAL LAKE, 133
HATJKBDALEN, 127, 133
TTATJKETiAND, 122
HA UKELAND LAKE, 133
HA UKELJFJELD [32]
HAXJKELI-S^TER, 40, 105
HATJS CH., 122
HAYERNiBS, 176
HAVN ISLAND, 150
HAVNINGBERG, 185
^^F^JV^^, 138
HAVNVIK, 177
HAVO ISLAND, 182
HAVOSUND, 182
HBDAL, 60, 77
HEDALEN CH., 57
HEDALSFJORDEN, 62
HED EMARKEN PLAIN, 85
HEEN STAT., 47
Hotels: Heen^BXi^SkoV'
heitn.
HEGGE CH., 62
HEOGEFJORD, 62
HEGGEIM, 148
HEOOENHAUGEN, 74
HEGGERBOTTEN STAT., 79
HEGGERBOTVAND, 79
HEGGBSTOL, 38, 39, 45
HE6RE, 161
HEILHORNENE, 167
HEILfiTAD, 168
HEILSTUGNVAND, 134
HEILSTUGU GLACIER, 64,
66
HEILSTUGU ffO, 66
HEIMAKONO, 104
HEIMDAL STAT., 84, 89,
149, 160
HEIMDALSMUNDEN PASS,
63
HEIMDALSVAND [69]
HEJERAAS, X63
HEJREFOSFJORD, 91
HEKLESTRAND, 176
HBLGEDAL, 71
HELGEIM CH., xy^
HELGELANDSFL^S, 168
HELGO, 73, 8s
HELL, 161, 162
HELLE (SaBtersdal), 93
HELLEFOS, 42
HELLE I HILLERSTAD, 91,
93
HELLERFOS, 66
HELLERTJERN LAKE, 66,
67
HELLESYIT, 135, 136, 144
Hotels : HelUsylt and
TryggeitouP$ (often orer-
crowded), at the pier. Agent
for Bennett's carioles and
carriages. Alongside is an
Inn kept by M. Hellesylt.
Afagnus Sceters ; new hotel ;
recommended.
HELN^S, 183
HELSEGGEN, 173
HELVEDE, 74
HELVEDESFOS, 5, 128
HBLVEDESKJEDELEN, 59
HELVETET FALL, 161
HELVIG, 99
HELVIG STAT. (Karesu-
ando), 99
HEMNJES (Ranen), 170
Good quarters at Nilaen's.
HEMSEDAL CH., 56
HEMSEDAL ELV, 55
HEM8EDALSFJELDENE
[31]
HEMSIL R,, 55, 56
HENNINGSV^R, 175
HERAND, 118
HERMANSNAS, 163
HERMANSV^RK (Sogne).
See LEEANGER
HEROEN, 1x3
HESJEDAL, 88
HESNESOER, 9x
HESTBILXPIGGEN [30]
HESTEBILEPIGGENE, 66
HE8TEN, X30
HESTEN^SOREN, 138
HESTMANDEN [29]
HESTMANDO ISLAND, 171
HESTN^SFOS, 125
HESTORA, X38
HESTUN ISLAND, 168
HESTVOLDENE, 62
HEVNE, X50
mis FJORD, X15, n8
HILDAL, 42, 119
HILDAL8F0S, 42
HILLESTADT, X28, X30, 13X
HELLEVAAG, 99
HILLING8BERG, 76
HIMMELTINDERNE [29]
HINDO ISLAND, X73, 174,
i75» 176, 177
HINDREM, x6s
HINDS^TER, 60
HINNA, 99
HINOGLER., 60
HINOGLELI, 60
HIRBROEN, 86
HISFJORD, 1x2
HISO, 9x, X26
HITTERDAL, 45
HITTER.ELV, 87
HITTEREN ISLAND, 150
HITTERSUND, 150
HJELLE, 61, 78, 134
HJELLEDAL, 134
HJELLEDAL8TIND, 62, 68
HJELMADAL, X2i, X22
HJELMEN ISLAND, 179
HJELMSO, 182
HJERKIN, 8X-83, 87
HJORENDFJORD, x3S, X36
14X
HOAAS, 150
HODNEDAL 8JBTER, 132
HODNENIPA, 132
HOFSFOS, 47
HOGFOS, 92
HOG ELEVEN, 75
HOGVAGLEN, 66, 67
HOGVAGLTJERN, 67
HOIEVARDELIGHT, xo2
HOIHOLM, 168
H6IHOLM PEAKS, 168
HOILAND, 99
HOITINDEN [29]
ffdJAAS, 47
HOEL, 84
HOL, 45, X2I, X22
HOLAFOS, 6x
HOLE, loi
HdLERA R., 58
HOLJERASTEN, 49
H6HEF0S, 47, 55, 57
Hotels : Glatveld's (excel-
lent), in a pretty garden, N.
part of town, between the
two rivers. Conveyances to
and from railway stat. ;
charges moderate. Trout-
Jlshing permitted. F. Jer-
bane : near railway stat. ;
recommended when other is
full.
14]
INDEX AND DIBEOTOET TO NORWAY.
HORVEDRAGSFJELD, 143
HOVRINGBN S JSTBR, 80
HOP, 49
HOPTEREN, X03
HOGSTEN LIGHT, 139
HOGUND LAKE, 6
HOISTAKKA R., 67
HOKNA, 75
HOKBTAD, 165
HOL, 55, 120, 132
HOLAKER, 81, 147
HOLANDSFJORD, 170, 171
HOLE, 54
HOLENIBBA, 143
HOLLVIK, 45
HOLMBERGET, 164, 166
HOLMEDAL, 113, 132
HOLMEN, 75
HOLMBNKOLLEN, 17
HOLMESTBAND, 31
Hotel: Societetm; lodg-
ings procured by the mana-
ger of the Sea Baths.
HOLMO, 134
HOLSANDBN, 165
HOLSET, 146, 147
HOLSETB, 129
H0L8FJ0RD, 19
HOLTAALEN, 88
HOMBORGSGRUND HAR-
BOUR, 91
HOMERS AND (Hetland), loi
HOMMELVIK MTS., 164
HOUMELVIK, 161
Inn : good.
HONDALSNUT, 124
HONSTAD, 148
HONSTADKNYK, 148
HOP, 122, 126
HOPRBKSTAD CH., 126
HORGJEM, 14s
HORNELEN [33]
HORNELEN CLIFF, xyj
HORNINGDAL R. [67], 135
HORNING DA LSFJELDENE
[30]
HORNINGDA LSROKKEN
[30]. 135. 141
HORNINGDALSVAND, 134,
135, 138
HORNSFOS, 56
HORNTIND, 51
HORNVIK BA F, 182
HORSN^S, 179
HORTE, 91
HORTEN, 31
Hotels : Sdrhye's and Vic-
toria.
HO RUNG ERNE MTS. [31],
52. 53. 65» 67, 68, 69, 125,
129, 131, 132
HOSEIDVAND, 90
HOSBT, 61
HOUGSUND, 42
HOVE, 50, 75, 126, 142
HOVBDOEN, 23
HOVEFJORDEN LAKE, 61
HOVIN, 44, 88
HUGAKOL, 51
HUGLEN ISLAND, 170
HULDREFOa, 133
HUMLEDAL, 19
HUMMELFJELD [32], 87
HUNDALBN, 176
HUNDEPOS, 105, 130
HUND8F08, 5
HUNDSHAMMBR, 130
HUNDTORP, 76
HUNN, 167
HUNS R., 73
HURDALEN, 72
HUSAFJELD, 114
HUSDAL, 117
HUSTADIRKEN, 149
HUSUM, 53
HVALEBYKAMPEN, 48
HVALOERNE, 26
HVALSTAD, 29
HVITESEID, 37, 92. See
also KIRKEBO.
HVITESJd, 92
HVITINGSO, 99, los
HIENFJORD, 137, 138
HYLEN, I04
HYLLA, 163, 165
HYLLAND, 125
HYLLESTAD CH., 93
HYLSFJORD, 104
HYLBKARET, 104
HYVING, 123
I.
IBESTAD CH., 177
IDEFJORD, 24
IGLAR, 84
IISFJORD, 78
ILDMAND LAKE, 80
ILEN CH., 89
ILFJELD, 151
ILLAAEN R., 67
INDEBDAL, 150
Inn (couifortable) ; kept
by Halvor Inderdal, an ex.-
cellent guide,
INDERO, 165
INDEROEN, 163, i6s
INDFJORD, 144
INDHERBD, 165
INDLANDET, 149
INDRE DALE, 145
INDRB BIDE, 143
INDRE HAUGEN, 135
INDRE KVARO, 171
INDRE OFFREDAL, 129
INDRE 8AMLEN FJORD
116
INDRE STEINSUND, 136
INDVIKEN, 138
INDVIKFJORD, 134
INDYR, 171
INNA LAKE, 163
INNA R., 163
ISDAL, 126, 145
ISFJORD, 144
ISTAD, 148
ISTERDALEN MTS., 144, 145
ISTINDERNE, 177
J.
J-SIDEREN [33]
JMGER VANDSTINDERNE
[29]
JJSGGE-VARRE [29], 179
J^GSTRAND, 171
JJBVNAKER, 48
JAGTA, 141
JAKOBS R. [60]
J.IKOBS R. ( WESTER2f)
[66]
JELSE, 104
JENSVOLD, 87
JERKIN. SeeHJERKIN
JETTAFJELD (Vaage) [32],
80
JQKELFJELDENE [29]
JOSTEDAL GLACIER, 52
JOLSTER SeeVASENDEN
JOLSTER CH., 133
JOLSTERVAND, 133
JOEN. SeeGJOOBN
JONSHORN, 141
JOSENDAL, 41
JOSENFJORD, 104
JOSSUND CH., 166
JOKULFJORD, 179
JOMFRULAND ISLAND, 90
JON AN JUS PROM., 113
INDEX AND DIBBOTOBT TO NORWAY.
[15
JOKDAL, 43, 115, "8
Inn : Utne's (fair).
Guides: 3 kr. per day.
JONDALSBR^, 115
JONDALSOREN, 118
JONSAASEN, 58
JONSBERO, U7
JON8KNUT, 42, 43
JONSTOLENEy 120
JORA VALLEY, 1A7
JORAMO, 147
JORANGER CH., 130
JORDAL, 119
JORDAL8NUT, 119, 125
JORSTADMOBN CAMP, 74
JOSTEDAL R., 130
JOSTEDAL VALLEY, 79,
130, 131, 138
JOSTEDALSBRjE, 125, X27,
130. 133. '^34
J0STEDAL8BR.EEN [30]
JOTUNFJELDE, 65, 75
JOTUNFJELDENE [31]
JOTUNHJEMy 51, S8, 78, 79.
80, 146, 150
JOTUNPORTEN PASS, 63
JUDEBBRGET, 104
JUEREN LAKE, 20
JUKELEGQEN [31]
JUKLEVAND, 115
JUKULEGG, 56, 62
JULSUND, 149
JUTULHUGGET, 86
JUVAND, 143
K.
KAAFJORDy 179, 180
KAAG EN GLACIER, 179
KAALAAS, 105
KAARDAL, 120
KAARDALFOS, 132
KABELVAAQ, 175
KAQGEFOS, 47
KAHOLMEN ISLAND, 6
KALDENUT,ii6
KALDEVASAADAL, 120
KALDVELLA, 83
KALSTAD, 84, X48
KALURS^TER, 14a
KALVAAG, 137
KALVAAHOGDA, 62, 63, 64
KALVEN^S, IIS
KAMQFJORD, 183
KARASJOK, 181
KA.RASUANDO, 178, 181
KARISTOLBERG, s6
KARLS R., 91
KARLSO ISLAND, 178
KARMOEN ISLAND, 102
KASTNiESHAVN, 177
KAUPANQER, 128
KA.UTOKEINO, 181
KAVLIS^TER, 144
KEISEREN pass, 71, 131
KIBERG, 186
KILE, 93
KILEFJORD, 93
KILEFOS, 125
KINN [33], 137
KINNEKLOVEN [33]
KINSERVIK, 117, 118
KIBKEBO (Hviteseid), 37, 90
Hotel: WendVs{«ood.).
EIRKEBO (Sogne), 126
KIRKELANDET ISLAND,
149
EIRKEN^S, 186
KIRKENIBBA, 138
KIRKENMT,, 65, 66, 67, 70
KIRKEOEN, 104
KIRKES^TEROREN, 148
KIRKESTUEN, 75
KIRKEVAAG, 175
KIRKEVOLD, 53
KIRKNiBSVAAG, 165
KI8TRAND, 184
KJJSLATIND, 40
KJJ&LA VAND LAKE, 40
KJ^RINGEN, 139
KJEAASEN, 90
KJEILSTROM, 126
KJELLAND, 117
KJELSTADDAL, 135
KJELSTADLI, 135
KJELVIK, 183
KJERRINGO, 172, 175
KJERRINGTJND, 169
KJERRINGVIK, 165
KJEUNGEN LIGHT, 166
KJOBMANDS SKJ.ER, 33
KJOLARS, 163
KJOLBERG R., 27
KJOLLEFJORD, 184
KJOLEHAUGENE, 163
KJ6LEN CHAIN [28J
KJOS, 134
KJOSBUNDEN, 134
KJOSEN, 178, 179
KJ0RG08H NJARG, 182, 184
KJORN^S, 128
KLAGEG STAT, 133
KLEFSTAD, 76, 77
KLEP, 99
KLEPPEVAND LAKE, 90
ELEVEN (Gol), 55, 97
KLINGENBERG, 76
KLOFTEN STAT., 72
KL6PTEFJELD, 123
KLOVDALSEID, 136
KLOVEN, 177
KLOSTERFJORD, i86
KLOSTERFOS, 35
KLTJBBBN, 185
KLUBBENFJELD, 185
KLTJNGNiES, 60
KNAPLUNDO ISLAND, 172
KNARESTAD, 5
KNIVSELV, 143
KNIVSFLAAFOSSENE, 143
KNIVSKJ^RODDE [29], 182
KNUTSH6 [30], 83
KNUTSHULTIND [31], 63, 64
KOBBERAA R., 161
KOBBBRDAL, 170
KOBBBRVIKSDAL, 31
KOKSVIK, 148
KOLAASTIND, 136
KOLDAFJELD, 124, 125
KOLDEDALSTIND, 62, 63, 68
KOLDEDdLA, 69
KOLDEHULLER, 120
KOLO BRO, 60
KOLOEN, 77
KOLSAAS, 19
KOMAGFJORD, 180
KONGEN, 145
KONGSBAKTIND, 176
KONGSBEBG, 43
Hotels : Victoria (best),
at some distance W. of
railway atat. R., from
2 kr. ; B., 1 kr.; D., L60
kr. ; S., 1.30. kr. BrUati-
nia (with view over Nyhro-
foi). Scandinavie (also
near railway stat.) Hotels
frequently full; advisable
to telegraph.
Telegraph Office at rail-
way stat.
Carriages: To Tinno-
set vid Bolkesjb : car-
riole, 15 kr. ; two-horse car-
riage, 3 persons, 30 kr. ; 3,
36 kr. ; 4, 40 kr. Through
oonreyance to Hitterdal
after stopping at Tinuoset:
carriole, 23.46 kr. ; carriage,
45 kr. for 3 persons ; charge
for more persons in propor-
tion.
KONGSDOLA, 70
16]
IKDBX AND DIREOTOKY TO NORWAY.
KONGaFJORDR. [66]
KONGSTRdM, 57
KOKOSYINOES, 38, 72, 85
Hotel : Kongsvinffer
KONGSVOLD, 82, 83
KOPBRVIK, I03
KOPPANO, 86
Hotels : Jernhane ; board
and lodging about 4 kr.
per day. Hansen* ta,ndKop-
pang. All moderate,
KOPPANG HAMMER, 86
KOROBN, 170
KORNSJO STAT., 24
KORSFJORD, 103, 112, 113,
180
KORSNiBS, 176, 180
KOSTVBIT, 45
KEAAKHELLBSUND, 136
KR^MMERMOEN, 58
KRAO£R([), 89, 90
Hotels: Central ; good.
Hambourg ; Germania ;
Kragerd.
EBAMSO, 126
KREKLING STAT., 42
KRINGELEN, 76, 77, 79, 80,
137
KRODEREN lake, 54
KBOKAK, 44, 45
Inn : Tourist Associa-
tion ; excellent ; charges
moderate.
KROKEN FARM, 130
KROKHAUGEN, 82, 86, 87
KROKKLEVEN, 20
KROKLOEN LAKE, 60
KROKSKOGy 19, 47
KROKSUND, 20
KRONDAL GLACIERS, 130
KROSFONN [32]
KROSSBR^EKEN, 142
KROSSHO, 70
KROSSO, 44
KUNNA [29], 171
KVAAL, 88
KVAALE. See GRIMO
KViBNANGENFJORD, 178
KViBRNEFOS, 148
KViBRNBVIG, lox
KVALE RIDGE, 50
KVALO ISLAND, 16B, 177,
180
KVALSUND, 184
KVALVAAG, 172
KVAM, 164
KVAM CH., 76, 77
KVAMHEST, 137
KVAMMB, S3
KVAMMBN, 148, 150
KVAM8KLEV, 51
KVAMSO, 1x6, 139
KVANDE, 148
KVARSTEN, 5
KVARVEN, 103
KVASHO, 66
KVASTIiVD, 170
KVELLO, 160
KVELSJO [69]
KVIKNB, 87
KVILDAL, 104
kVINA R. [653,98
KVINHBRRED, CH. 114
KVINNAFOS, 127
KVISBERG, 59, 74
KVITTEGGEN, 136
KVITENjES, 138
KVITENOSI, X24
KVITHttVD, 50, 51
Ooide and horse, 2 kr.
KVITHOLMEN LIGHT, 194
KVITNiBS, 179
L.
LA AG EN R. (Gudbrands-
dal) [66, 69], 59. 60, 73-77,
79, 80, 146, 147
LA AG EN R, (Numedal), 34,
4«. 43
LAAGEN R. (Ryfylke), 104
LAAGOFJORD, 136
LAARGAARD, 80
LAATEFOS, 42, 48, 118, 119
Hotel : Good, small ; re-
freshments.
LABRO'FOSy 42, 43
LADE,j[6o
LADEGAARDSO, 15
LADBHAMMER, 164
L^RDAL. See L^EDAL
SOREN
LiERDAL R., 52 [64]
UERDALSOSEN (Sogue),
54. 128
Hotels: Lindstrdm's; one
of the best in Norway.
Loerdalsdren' i ; good. Post
and telegraph offices.
LuERDALSFJORD, 128, 129
L.ERRISFJORD, 180
LAK8 R. [6i, 70], 184
I LAKSEFJORD, 184
LAK8F08 [62], 169
LAK8J6, 34
LALXTM BRIDGE, 78
LANDEGODE, X71
LAND LAKE, 48, 49
LANDSV^RK (Sauland), 37,
45
LANGBDAL, 63, 128, 135, 142
LANGEIDVAND, 39
LANGELAND, 133, 135, 137
LANGBN, 87
LANGESUND, 89
LANGEaUNDFJORD, 89
LANGB8UND8 KREPPA, 89
LANGBVAAG, 103
LANGEVAND, 66, 67, 93
LANGFJELD [32], X39
LANGFJORD, x86
LANGFLAAFJELD, 143
LANGLBTB, 88
LANGNiBS, i8s
LANGSKIBSO, 14X
LANGSKOG, 117
LANGVAND, 170
LARSN^S, 139
LA UKELAND8HEST, 137
LAUPAR,x^r
LAURDAL, 37. See also TRI-
S^T
LAURGAARD, 60
LATTRYIK, 33, 89
Hotels : Grand ; Thora
HanserCi (both very good).
Johanmen^t and VuUoria
(facing the fjord).
Hydropathio Estab. : 110
la*, per oourse of 6 weeks ;
80 kr. for 4 weeks, and 32 kr.
for 1 week (for medical ad-
vice, waters, baths, &c.) ;
meeds (3), 63 kr. per month.
Restaurant ; excellent ;
lodgings outside. Baths
Hotel Park : 20-40 kr. per
month; apply to Baths'
Manager.
LA UVH6 MT., 66
LAVANGEN, 176
LAVANGERFJORD, 177
LAVIK, 126
LAXO, 28
LBANGEN, i6o
LEIRA, 67, 70, 71, 72, 130
LEIRDAL VALLEY, 66, 67,
LEJRFJORD, 169
LEIRHO MT., 65, 66
LEIRMO, 130
LEIRUNGENTARS, 63
INDEX AND DIBBOTORY TO NOBWAT.
[17
LEJRUNGSBuEKKEN, 63
LEIRUNG8KAMP, 64
LJBIRUNGSMYR, 64
LEIRVAND, 66, 67, 70
I.EKAKOES (Sogne), 127
Hotel: FretheinCi', com
f ortable, moderate.
L.EKO ISLAND, 167
LEK6m6EN [29], 167
I^KSDAL, 163
liEKSDALEN, 163
LEKSVIKEN, 165
liBEYE, 120
UBNYIK CH., 177
liEPSO ISLAND, 113, 139
LER, 84, 88
LEKBIMSKLEYEN, 144, 145
LERF088EN, X59
LBRSTJND, 72
LERVIK, 103, 113, 126
LESJA, 150
LE8JASK0GENS CH., 146
LESJASKOaa LAKE, 146
LESJAVAND, i^-j
LESJE LAKE, 82
LESJEV^RK LAKE, 74
LESKA ISLANDS, 150
LEVANOEB, i6x, 162, 163,
165
Hotels: BaddundCi and
MarieriboT^s
LEVOJOK [61]
LIA S^TER, 41
LID, 103
LIDNJBS ISLAND, z66
LIE, 141
LIER STAT., 30
LIBR VALLEY, 30
LIFJELD [32]
LIFJELD MT8.y 36, 43, 44
LIHE8T, 126
LILAND, 176
LILLE ALTENFJORD, 179
LILLE ELVEDAL, 82-86
LILLE LER-F08, 89
LILLE ajdNENFJORD, 170
LILLEAA R., 161
LILLEDAL, 150
LILLEDALEN RAVINE, 150
T.n.T.KHAHHKR, 59, 73, 74,
85, 145
Hotels : Victoria ; very
good; dU Stat, for Ghud-
brandsdal and GktuBdal.
OrmtrtuFs ; good and com-
fortable. B., 1-1-75 kr. : B.,
1 kr. ; D., 3 kr. ; 8., 1 kr. ;
[-Norway— vi. 92.]
Johannesen't (when others
full) ; moderate.
Meerschaum pipe* at G.
Larson's.
ULLESAND, 91
Hotel : yorge.
LILLESTROM, 28, 72
LINDESNjES, 4
LINSEm STAT., 61, 79
LISTAD, 76
LISTERFJORD, 98
LISTERLAND [33] q8
UdFJELD, 135, 142
LO JZ.,42
L0DAL8-BRJE, 130
L0DAL8KAAPA [30], 65
lHhTSQiSS (Yestf jord), 175,
176, 177
Exoellent but limited ac-
commodation at house of
Mr. SehOnning, local mer-
chant.
LODVE, 124
LOEN LAKE, 130
LOEN (Nordfjord), 130, 134,
.y38
LOFALD, 148
LOITEN, 14
L6'K£K, 5z
Pension (80 beds). At
posting Stat. 85 beds. Bath*
ing-house.
Small cottages above the
station where travellers can
have repose, in beautifol
scenery.
LOKENSBERG, St
LOKKEN, 86
LOKTA ISLAND, 170
LdMSEN LAKE, 164
LONEHORQ, 1x7, 124
LQNEVAND lake, ios, 134
LOVEID canal, 36
LOVSTAKKEN, 122
LOFTHtrS, 117, X18
Hotel: Wn*** ; very com-
fortable and moderate ;
charming situation. Several
Pensions.
L0F08, 51
LOFOTEN ISLANDS, 173-
176, 155
LOFOTOBDEN, X73
LOFTESN^S, X28
LOFTET, 67
L0K8UND, X13
LOM, 58
LOM CH., 60, 79
L0M8EQG [30], 60, 78, 79
L0M8FJELDENE [30]
LOOREN, X38
LOPHAV, 179
LOPPEKALV, X79
LOPPEN ISLAND, 179
LORDAL VALLEY, 61, 147
LOSET, 86
LOSNA (CJudbrandsdal), 37
L08NA LAKE, 75
LOSNEOEN, X36
LOVUNDEN [29]
LOVTJNDBN ISLAND, 170
LESJA CH., 147
LUNDARVAND, 124
LUNDEBR^, 133
LUNDEMO, 88
LUNDEN, 127
LTJNDENiBS, X43
LUNDEVAND LAKE, 98
LUNKE CH., 161
LURO ISLAND, 171
LUTSI, xoi
LTBUGFJELD, 38
LYDERHORN, X03, 112
LYGREFJORD, 126
LYGREN, 12$
L7NGDAL R. [67], q8
LYNGDAL VALLEY, 97
LYNGDALSFJORD, 98
LYNGEN ALPER [29]
LYNGEN FJORD [71], 164,
166, 172, 178, X79
LYNGHOLMEN, 103
LYNGODAL, X79
LYNGOR, 90
LYNGSEIDET, 179
LYNG8TUEN, 178
LYNGViBR, 175
LYSAKBR, 29
LY8EBUNDEN, 102
LY8EFJ0RD, loi
LYSNEDAL, 53, 54
LYSTER, 60
LY8TERFJ0RD, 51, 58, 67
LYSTHUS, 46
LYaURDAL8R.,x^6
LTSURNIBBA, X43
MAABO, X2X, X22
MAABODAL, 121
MAABdKVIST, X2x
MAABOKLEV, X3X
18]
INDBZ AND DIBEOTOBT TO NORWAY.
MAAOALAVPE, THE, 83
MAALB R. [66, 70, 71]
HAALSELYDAX, 177
MAALSNiBS, 177, 179
MAANE R.,^,^S
MA AHA A DAL, 134
MA.ARKN, 136
MAARTINDERNE, 177
MAASO, 182
MADMODEREN [39]
MAEHLUM8F0S, 77
M2BaK£B^K, qo
MAGEBO ISLAND, 181, i8a,
183
MAGERQaUND, 183
MAGNOR STAT., 38
MAIVAND^ 169
MAKUR, 185
MALANOENFJORD, 177
MALM, 165
MALMAGEN, 87
MALMAQRONSNAAVE, 124
MALMANGERNUTER MTS,
"4
MALSTROM, 173, 174
MALVIK, 160
XANSAL, 97. See also
AASBRAL.
Hotel : OUen%
MANDAL R. [65], 97
MANDFJELD, x6x
MANGER, X26
ITATiAATf (Merok), 6z, 78,
I35» 136, 142, X43. 144
Hotels : Oeiranger ; clean,
new ; R., from 1| kr. ;
B., U kr. ; D., 2 kr. ; 8., ij
kr. (walls between rooms
very thin.) This hotel is
generally full. Union ;
above the Ch. (established
1891). Weiberg't; tolersblj
good.
MARADAL VALLEY, 68
MARIDALEN, 22
MARIENBORG, 161
KARIPJJEREK, X28, 129, X30
131
Inn : /. TGrvU* ; com-
fortable quarters ; good
gpiide.
MARISTIEN, 45
MARISTUEN, 52, 50
MARKED ALS /2., 53
MARVIK, X04
MASDALSKLSV, x4r
MASFJORD, 126
MATARENGI, x8z
MATREFJORD, ria, 1x3
MATVIK, 143
MAUKEN, X77
MAURANGERFJORD, xz4
MA URSTADEID^ X37
MAURVANGEN PLAINS,
63
MEHAVN, X84
MJfiJbLUS, X04, 121
MELDAL, 148
MELDAL8K0G, X48
MELDERSKJN, X14
MELFJORD, X71
MELHUS, 88, 132
MELING, xoi
MELKEDALSBAND, 69
MELKEDALSBR^, 69
MELKEDALaTlNDy 6a, 63,
64. 67. 69
MELKEDALSTJERNENEfig
86
MBLKEDAL VALLEY, 69
MELKEHULLERNE, 69
MELO ISLAND, 17X
MELSDAL, X14
MELSTENEN, 167
MEL8TES FJORD, X67
MELSVAND, X24
MEMURU GLACIER, 64, 67,
68
MEMURUBRjEEN [31]
MEMURUTIND, 64
MEMURUTUNGE, 64
MERAKER, x6i, 163
MERGE. SeeMARAAK.
MERTENSN^S, 185
ME8NA-F0S, 73
ME8NA R., 74
MIDDOLA a, 44
MIDGAARDEN, 45
MIDTS^TER, XX4
MIDTSKOGBN, 86
MIEN ISLAND, X39
MINNE STAT., 73, 85
MISBERG, 73
MJTFJELD, x6i
MJAAVAND LAKE, 117
MJAAVASLI FARM, X72
MJELVuER, X30
MJOLKA /2., 67, 69
MJOlNIR, 14s
MJONDALEN STAT., 43
MJ68EN LAKE [71], 72, 73,
74»7S
MJd8UNDy 177
MJOSSTRAND, 45
MJOS VAND, 38, 45 [69]
MJ0LVEF08, xx6
HO (Banen) X33, 148, 162. 170
Excellent and vety zoode-
rate quartexB at Laod-
handler Meyer^s.
MO R. [67]
MOARDAL, 61
MODALEN, X26
HOPTTH, 47
Hydxopathio Establish-
ment and Sanatorium i^St.
Olafi Bad). Highly salubri-
ous resort, espe<^lly in cases
of disease or weakiiess of re-
spiratory organs. Very full
(fashionable) in sommer.
Charget: Medical, <fcc., 2S,
44, 64, and 80 kr. for 1
to 4 weeks respectively, and
15 kr. for each subeeqaent
week. Reduction in case of
families. Residence, SO-70
kr. ; and with sitting or
dressing-room, 70-80 kr. per
month. Villa* (4-7 rooms),
furnished, 16&-330 kr. per
month. Prices lower after
Aug. 1. (Cheaper accommoda-
tion in Villa rtutiea. Restau-
rant : 4 meals, 2-40 kr. per
diem. For hot dish at
second breakfast, 30 '6 more.
Second cl. dining-room, IJ
kr. per day. Description
and tariff supplied on ap-
plication by post, or on the
spot. Beds obtainable by oc-
casional visitors, the bulk
of whom are monthly
boarders. ((Conveyances at
Vikersund stat. ; 1-20 kr.
for one, or 1.60 kr. for two)
MdFALSSKARDENE, 120
MOKLEBOST, X33
MOLLERVAND, s
MOLMEN, 61, 146, X47
MOEN, 59, 61, 74
MOBN FARM, 129
MOEN (Sel), 79, 80
MOENI SODORP, 76
MORE, 130
MORKBDAL, 56, 124
MORKEREIDAL, 131
M08ADLEN [29]
MOGELIFOa, XX9
MOGELINUT, XX9
MOGEN, 38
MOKSA R., 75
HOLBB, X40, X4X, X46>x49
Hotels: Alexandra ; in
W. part of town, with
beautiful view ; very good
Grand \ in B. part ; equally
good. Pension, 8 to 7 kr.
per diem. CHieapest claret,
INDEX AND DIRECTOBT TO NOKWAT.
[19
4 kr., and same charge for a
good bedroom. Telegraph
for accommodation, both
hotels being frequently full.
Passengers taken to and
from hotels in steam-laun-
ches of hotels.
JiOLDEFJORD, 139, 140* 141,
144
MOLDESTAD, 133
MOLDOEN, 137
MOLDSKRBDDAL, 135
MOLLA ISLAND, 174
MOLLDORA channel, 174
MOLLEN, t3o
MON STAT., 24
MONE S-aJTER, 50
MONGE, 145
MONGE-FOS, 145
MONQEJURA, 145
MONBHORN, 143
MORAFJELD, 86
M0RDALSF08, 131
MORKA-KOLDEDOLA, 69
MORKA-KOLDBDAL VAL-
LEY, 68, 129
MORKOLLEN, 57
MOSBO, 92
MOSBY, 6
KOSJOEK (yefsen),x67, 168,
169. See also VEFSEN.
Hotel: Schroder* b: tra-
vdleDTS to or from Vefsen
estate accommodated by
manager at Halaoeo, about
4 kil. N. of Mosj'den.
MOSKEN ISLAND, 174
MOSKEN^SO ISLAND, 173,
174. 175
MOSKOSTROM, 174
ICOSS, 27
HoteJ : Reimeh*s ; B.,from
2 kr. ; D., 3 kr. ; S., 1.60 kr.
M08SE iJ., 27
MOSSESUNDy 27
MOSTEBHAVN, 103
MOSTEB ISLAND, 102
MOSVIKEN, i6s
MOVAND, 133
MUGGEDOLA R., 57
MUGNAFJELDy 62, 63
MUGNATIND, 62
MITLDAL, 142
MULDALFOS, 142
MUNDAL, 127
MTJNDHBIMSDAL, 115
MUNKEG, X27
MUNKHOLM, 159
MUNKHOLMBN ISLAND,
151
MU0NI0K08KI RAPIDS*
181
MUONIOVAABA, 181
MURUSJ6 [69]
MYKLEBOSTAD, 172
MYKLBMYR, 131
MYKLETVEITRE, 123 .
MYRDALSVAND, 114
MYRBORN, 130
MYSBBYT, 130
MYSE-ELV, 115
MYSEN STAT., 25
MY8EVAND, 115
MYSEVASSKAR, 115
MYSUS^TER, 80
NAA, 118
NAALENE, 125
NA4RA, 136
NAAVERDALEN, 87
NiERBO CH., 99
NiBBEIMS, 125
NjEREIMSFJORD, 125, 131,
133
NJERODAL, 125
NjERODALSELV, 124
N^ROFJORD, 125, 131, 132,
143
N^RO R. [67]
N^SiRSTRAND, 204
N^RSTRANDSFJORD, 104
N2SS (AaudalsnaBSjRomsdal),
142, 144, 145, 146
Hotels : Bellevue \ splen-
didly situated ; Anglican Ch.
tervices ; boats and a steam*
launch at disposal of visi-
tors, who can also fish (ia2-
tnon) in the Rauma. Grand
H. Bellevue (new, 1890).
UnhienC» and RonudaU-
horn ; both comfortable
and moderate.
Bennett's Agent (Aandahl,
of H. Bellevue) supplies
earriagesy carrioles, &o., at
reasonable charges.
KJES (HaUingdal), 55
Hotel : Ncpsy and posting
station; good.
KJES (Snldal), 104, X05
Hotels : Lane's ; Gau-
thun's. Latter where R'dL
dal road begins; large;
posting-horses provided.
N-SJS CH., 73, 131
N^SET, 93
NiESHEIM, 99
NJSS R. (Valders), 50, 57
NiBSSB LINDAAS, 126
NiESSEBY, 185
NJEVELSFJORDy 172
NjEVERFJELDy 75
NJSVERFJOBD, 180
NAGLOREN, 128
NAKKERUD STAT., 47
NAMDALEN, 164, 169
NAMDALSEIDEy 164
NAMSENFJORDy 164, 166
NAM8SN R. [62], 164, 166
KAHSOS, 164, 166, 167
Hotel: Jensen's*, good.
NARVBROD, 33
NAUST, 164
NAUSTAL, 137
NAUSTENB, 121
NAUTEFOSy 125
NA UTGARDSTINDy 62, 76
NEAADALEN, 150
NEDRE HEIMDALSVANDy
63
NEDRE VASSBNDBN. See
VASBNDEN
NEIDEN R. [60, 70I
NERDAL, 150
NBRGAARDEN, 91
NBRVIK, 84
NES, 163
NESELVy 61
NESNB, 170
NESEIMHORGENy 117
NBSTUN, 122
NESVANDy 162
NIBBBDAL, 135
NIBBBDALSHATJGBN. See
ITTBLSTADHAXTGBN
NID R, [62], 90, i5», 159.
160
NID VALLEY, 88, 8^
NIGARS-BRjE [30], 130
NIGARSDAL, 130
NIPAHOGDy 120
NIPEFJELDy 114
NI8SER LAKE C69], 92
NI88ER R. [66]
NITR.y79
NJALVARREy 179
NJUKENy 128
KOfSTE, 146.
"KoUH'.EskidiU'y good.
C2
20]
INDEX AND DIBEOTOBY TO NOBWAT.
n5stmo, 163
n6tkb5, 33, 89
NOVLEFOS, 4x
NOKKENJBBA, 143
NONE AUG, S3
NOR, 135
NORANGSDAL, 135, 136
NORDAL, Z76
NORDALSFJORD, 143
NORDBBRGBT CH., 79
NORDDALEN, 176
NORDENFJELDSKE NOR-
WAY iaj^
NORDBRHOV OH., 90
NORDFJORD, 77, 78, 80, 130,
133. X34» i37f 138, 156
NORDFJORDEIDBTIB, 135,
137. 138
Hotel : BoalWi ; re-
oommended. Accommoda-
tioQ also at HUdeneB*.
NORDFOLDBN, 172
NORDHORDLAKD, 126
NORDKTN, 184
NORDLANDBT ISLAND,
149
NORDMAREEN, 23
NORDMARKEN MTS., 72
NORDMORB, 147, 149
NORDMOREFJORDS, 149
NORDN^S, 103
NORDPOLLEN, 1x4
NORDRB AURDAL, 49
NORDRE JACOBS R., 185
NORDRB BKEIE, 37
NORDRB SKJBRVB, 162
NORDSJQ, 36
NORDSTRAND, 21, 27
NOREFJELD [32], 54
NOREFJORD, 127
K0REIM8XJND, 1x5, zx6
Hotel: Sandven^i't good.
NORENJES HEADLAND.i^j
N0RE8UND, 55
NORMANDS SLAEB, xz8
NORMANDSLAAQEN LAKE
[69]* 45
NORRB, 55
NORSKE BUK, 167
NORSKE HESTENlsi], 137
NORTH OAPB [28], 182
NORVIK, 144
NOTODDEN (Hitterdal), 46
Hotels : Furuheim and
VietoriM ; both good.
KUMEDAL, 55, xz8
NUPSAAE, 40
NYABTQLFOS, X17
NYBOD, 62
NTBOE, 141
NYBORG, i8x, 185
NYKIRKB STAT., 31
NYLiBND, 39
NYLAND, 44
NYPAN, 88
NYPLADSBN, 87
NYS^TER, 61, 79, 82, X46,
147
NYSTUBN, 51, 52, 56, 62, X29
NY8UND, 99
NYTROBN, 87
0.
ODDE, 42, 104, XX2, X13, 114,
XX5, 1x8, Z20
Hotels : Hardanger ; per-
fect in aooommodation and
euUine\ R. (70, with 100
beds), from 1 kr. ; B., 1.30
kr. ; D., 3 kr. ; board and
lodging, 6 kr. per diem.
(He Prettegaar^i : alao near
pier ; comfortable, and about
samechargea. Board- Aga^t
(enlarged 1888) ; good ;
board and lodging mode-
rate. JordaVs; new and
good ; moderate ; and Hell-
ttrHnCs (close to Hardanger
H.). Anglican Ch. iervices
at the Hardanger H. and
the parish ch.
PostOffioe alongside Aga*s
H.
Antiquities and Silver:
Hammer's.
Guides : English-speaking
at all the hotels.
ODDBRNiES CH., 5
0'DDER5, 4, 5, 9x
ODBQAAEID, 38
0DNX8, 49, 74
Hotels : OdncBS (ten mio.
from pier); excellent cui-
sine; good ; charges reason-
able. Vaarncesi also recom-
mended. SkiHen (3 kil. be-
yond Odnees) ; comfortable ;
close to it is another smaU
H. (at FramnsBs).
OOSFJORB, 17s
61,92
6IANGEN LAKE, 62
blANQSnGlDEN, 61
OIE (Norangsfiord), 135, X36,
14X
Hotels: Union; Retiro,
qiB CH., 5x
6IER CH., 75
OlEREN LAKE, 25, 28, 72
OIBRHAVN, ixs
6IGARSFOS, 54
OIJORD, 176, X77
OILO, 51
6KSUND, 176
5lFARN^S, ZI3
OLMBIM (7H., X27
ORLAND PROM^ 151, 166
5R8TEN, Z36
ORSTENFJORD, 136
ORSTENVIKBN, 136
OSTBNFJBLDSEB NOR-
WAY [27]
(JBTENSd, 1x6
Hbtels : OttentO; Opheim.
OSTERDALBN, 75, 85
OBTBRISOBR. See RISQER.
dSTFJORD, X26
OSTVAAGO ISLAND, 173,
174, X7S
6STVIK, X64
OVBRAAS, X46
dVRE HEIMDAL8VAND, 63
OVRE LEIRTJNGSDAL, 64
OVRE SJ0DAL8VAND, 63
6VRE TELEMARKEN-
FJELDE [22J
OVREBO, X05
6YREFOS{6i]
6V8THU8F0S, X15
OFFENAASEN, 164
OFOTENFJORD, X76
OFTALI LAKE, 38
OGNE R., 98, 99
OKKEN, 53
OKSDALSHO, 67
OKSEFOS, 79
0K8EN, XX7, xao
OKSBNDALEN, 147, X50
OKSENFJELD, xx6
OKSQ, 4
OKSO LIGHTHOUSE, 91
OKSTINDERNE [28], 169
OLA.FSEILDEN, X38
OLAF'S SNUSHORN, X42
OLBBRG, 55
OLDEN (OldSren), X33, 138
Hotel: YrU; good and
moderate ; gtddes procur-
able.
OLDEN R. [66]
OLDENYAND, 133, X34
OLDOREN. See OLDEN
OLBN, 103
INDEX AND DIEECTOET TO NOETAT.
[21
OLES^TER, 130
0LSJ6EN LAKE, 50
OliSTAD, 91
0L8TADFJELD, 91
QL8TAPPEN LAKE, 59
OMBO ISLAND, 104
OMNESO ISLAND, 171
OMVIKEDAL, 114
ONEN i2., 117, 120
ONSO STAT., 27
ONSTAD, 50
OPDAL, 83, 148
OPDOL, X50
OPHEIK (near Stalheim),
127
Hotels: OpfteinCs; good
and moderate; Ltudy Breu-
tey'i, Johanneten^i, and
Friedheim; all good.
0PHEIM8VAND, 124
OPHUS STAT., 86
OPL^NSKEDAL, 143
OPLANDSKE H018LETTE
C32]
OPPEGAARD, 27
OPSETSTOLENE, 132
OPSJOEN lake [69]
0P8TRYN, 79, 134
0RB08TADTIND, 177
ORJE, 25
ORKEDAL, 147, 151
0RKEDAL8FJ0RD, 88, 149,
151
OSKEPALSO'SEK, 149
Hotel: VdUUid^t. Gk)od
rooms at Telegraph Station.
ORKLA R. [62, 63], 84, 148
ORMEIM, 145, 146
ORMEKVAAL, 39
ORMOEN, 27
ORN^S, 171
0R8K0OFJELD, 141
ORSTENVIK, 139
ORTNEVIK, 126
OS CH., 113, 122
OS (Samnangerfjord), 122
Hotels: Oser&ren's and
Elvig't.
OSCARSBORG, 6
OSCARSHALL, 15
08CAR8H0UQ, 70
OSB, 93, 120, 132
OSEFJORD, 1x2, 120
OSEKAVL, 120
osEy, 137, 164
OSEN CH., i66
OSEK (Suldal), 104
Hotels: Sundal (posting
Stat.); Underbakk^s,
08EN'F08, 137
08KEJVDAL8 R,, 138
OSLO, 6, 21, 72
08TER FJORD, im
OSTERO UTS., 123
OSTRE SLIDRE, 50, 58, 61
OTERO, 167
OTTAR., 60, 6x, 75.77*7^.79,
131
OTTA VAND, 79
OTTER R. [65]
OTTERAA -R., 4, 5,6, 92
OTTERO ISLAND, X49
OTTEROEN, X39
OTTESTAD, 85
OVERAA, 142
OVERSTE-RODDAL, 142
OVNFJELD, 151
OVREVASENDBN. SeeVA-
SENDEN
PADDEBY, 185
PARDIS SiBTER, 50
PASHOIDBN, X32
PA8VIK [60, 70], 186
PBRSKAASA, 44
PIQHjETTA [30]
PIPERTIND, 178, 179
POLLFOSSEN STAT., 61
POLMAK, 181
P0R8ANOERFJ0RD, 183
poRsaRxrin), 35, 89
Hotel: Victoria', good.
PRJSKE8T0L, 143
PR^STHTJUS, 84
PRM8TKAMPEN, 75
PR^STOEN, 137
PUDDEFJORD, 103
B.
RAAENFJORD, 55
RAANAA8K0L, 146
RAASTAD STAT., 33
RAD, 146
RADO, 126
RAD08UND, 126
R.EKN^8HAUQ, 140
R^EK8TIND, 179
RAPSBOTNEN, 180
RAFT 8UND, 173. 174, ,75
RAGEFJORD STAT., 98
RAHOLTFJELD, 37
RAKE, 134
RAMBERO, 57
RAMSO, 166
RAM8UND, xj-j
BAN^S, 148
BANDO ISLAND, 104
RAND08UND, 91
RANDS R,, 47
BAIISBPJOBI), 47, 48, 74
Hotel: Berger,
RANDSVERK SiBTER, 60,
66
RANEN^ 169
RANEN R. [67], 170
RANENFJORD, 170
RANQILDF08, 45
RANHEIM, 160
RAPISVARI, 172
BASTA STAT., 86
RAUBEBG, 151
RAT7BEBG S^TER, 65
RATJBERGET, 165
RA UBER08KAR YEN [31]
RATJDAL VALLEY, 64
RAUDAL8BANDET PA88,
69
RA UDAL8MUNDEN, 69
RA UDAL8TIND, 64, 66, 67
RAUDAL8VANDE, 69
RAUD6LA,69,7o
RAUEGGEN, 134
RAD R,,^
RAUFJORD LAKE, 62
RAUFJORDHBIM, 50, 62, 63,
64
RAULAND, 38
RAUMA R. [64], 61, 144,
14s, 146
RAVNEDAL, 4
RAVNGJUV,3Z
RE (Red), 133, 138
Hotel: Gordon.
REIERSDAL, 93
RBINAA R., 133, 161
REINHEIM HUT, 82
REINO ISLAND, 178
REIN8NAA8VAND, 42
REIN8VAND, 164
REIS S^TER, X18
REI8EN R. [61], 179
REI8ENFJ0RD, 177
22]
INDEX AND DIEBOTOET TO NOEWAT,
BEITAK, 88
Inn : Halvor Seitan^St ,
near mouth of Aura. i
BBITEN, 146
RBITSTOEN, 88 |
REKDALHE8T, 139 1
REKSTBRBN ISLAND, 103 j
RELLINGEN, 14a i
RELSTAD, 104
RBMBISDALS SiETER, 121
REMBI8DAL8F0S, 121
REMDALSTIND, 171
RBNA STAT., 85
RENA R. [69], 86
RENLI OH., 58
BENNEBU, 150
RBPSVAAG, 184
REVBM CH., loi
RIENSJO [69]
RINDALEN, 148, 150
RINDLERET, 163, 165
RINGEBTJ CH., 75
RINGED ALS'FOS, 114
RINGEDALSVAND, 119, 120
BINGBLIBN, 49
RINGERIFOa FALL, 114
BINGEBIKB, 19, 47
RINGKOLLEN, 47
BINGOBN, 120
BINGSAKEB CH., 74
BINGVASSO ISLAND, 178
RINNA i2., 148
RI8 R., 72, 139
BISE I OPDAL, 83, 136
EIS&EB, 90
Hotel: Tiis\ very good
and moderate.
BISTO, 139
BISViBB, 167
RJUKANDEFOSy 56
BITSEN, 151
BJXTEAN-FOS, 45, 56
Inn: B., L60 kr.; B.,
1-20 kr.; D., 2 kr.
RJUKAN'FOa, LILLE, 38
RJUKAN'FOS (near Botten).
40
BOALD KVAM, 105
BODO LIGHT, 166
RODBERG,x2A
BODEN-fflS, 25
BODHAMMEBEN, 164
BODO, 171
rOdOlOVEN 1-2^1, zji.
BODSHEIM. See BOISEIM
R0D8UND, 167
rODVENFJORD, 144
EdiSEIK, 58, 60, 6x, 64, 65,
66, 67, 68, 70, 71, 78, 79> 131
Inn : good ; managed by
the well-known old guide,
Ole Halvorssbn Boiaeim,
who speaks English.
BOKEN STAT., 30
BOKENVIKEN, 48
ROKLENUT, 119
&6'LDAL, 41, 105, X19
Hotels : Roldal ; large,
excdlent, and moderate.
Brei/onn ; very good ; beau-
tiful view ; also moderate.
nOLOAL LAKE, 105
rOLDALSFJELDENE [32]
rOLDALS-SAATA, 41
RONEID. See BONNE.
BOENLANDBT, 48
RONSTADHULEN CAVE,
139
RORHUSDALEN, 135
rORHUSNIBBA, 135
RdROS, 86, 87
Hotels : Roros ; good.
Larsen's. Accommodation
at Railway Station.
RORVASTINDBR, 173
RORVIK, 167
ROSET, 141
ROSKJE, 163
ROST ISLAND, 174
R08TADTIND, 172
ROSVAND [71], 169
ROSVIK, 172
ROGNAES, 88
ROGNB, 50, 61
R0GN8FJ0RD, 89
ROGSTAD, 84
ROLFSHXJS, so, 55
ROLFSO ISLAND, i8i
ROLF80 LAKE, 27
ROLFSOHAVN, 181
ROLLA ISLAND, 177
R0L8BAKKERNE, 165
ROLS08UND, 181
ROMBAKKEN, 176
ROMERIKE, 72
ROMSDAL, 61, 142, 144, 146
149
R0M8DAL MT8., 139
R0M8DALS ALPERNE [30]
R0M8DAL8FJ0RD, 144
R0M8DAL8-H0RN [30], 139.
144, 145
ROMUNDGAARD, 80
RONDANE MTS, [as], 60,
6S» 75. 76» 80, 146, 147
RONDEVAND, 80
R0NG8TADVAND, 164
RONNE (Boneid), 130
Good quarters at J. Mot-
lamTt, storekeeper.
BOSDAL, 79
ROSENDAL, 114
Hotel : EotendaVs ; good.
BOSSET. See VOLDEN.
BOT ISLAND, 101
ROTA [29], 171
ROVAND LAKE, 148
BUGSUND, 137
RUK8ISVAGGEGAI8A, 179
RULLENUT, 120
BUNDAL, 120
BUNDO, 139
RUNEBERG, 144
RU8AAEN, 39
BUSGBENDEN, 44
RUSSA i2.,68
BUSSELUFT, 180
BUSSLIEN S JETEB, 60
RU88VAND [69], 68
RU8TEN RAIRNE, 80
BT7ST0BN, 133
RYD8AAEN R. [66]
RYENBERGENE, 72
RYGENDEF08, 91
BYGJABBIT, 126
BYHAUGEN, 82, 87
BYPEB^K, 6^
BYSFJuEBEN, 138
RY8NA, 51
RY8VAA8H0RN, 138
RY8VAND, 176
s.
8AATH0RN, 143
S^BERG, 120
S^BO, X2X, X22, X26« X3S
S^BOVIKEN, 136
8^B0FJ0RDEN LAKE,
61
S^D, 121
SiEKKEN, 144
S^LBU. SeeSELBU.
8JELB0 LAKE, 159
8JELB08J0, 160
SJELI, 164
S^BVOLD, X13
S^TEBEN, 87
iNDBi AND DIlStBOTOEt TO NOKWAt.
[23
SJETSSSSALEirS SOH-
MSBHJEK, 93
Pension : 4 kr. per day.
If staying more than 1 week'
3kr.
S^^TERSDALHOIER [32]
SuSlTBRSTOEN STAT., 38
S^TREN^S, 137, 139
8AGFJ0RD, 172
8AGF0S, 148
SAIMA LAKE, 75
SAKSEKLEP, 118
SAKSHATJG CH., 165
SALANGEN, 177
SALANOENFJORD, 177
SALBERG CH., 163
SALHTJS, 126
SALTDAL, 170
SALTDAL R. [62]
SALTENFJORD, 170, 171, 172
SALTN^SSANDEN, 84, 149
SAMLEFJORDy 113, 117
SAMLENJBS, 116
8AMLENUT, 112, 117
SAUNA NGERFJORD, i X2,
113, 122, X23
SAND (Randsf jord), 49
SAND (Ryfylke), 104
Hotel* : Rasmussen'i ; J.
Kaar'hus.
SANDBEBG-, 184
SANDBODEN, 70
SANDBU, 60
SANDB, 132, 133, 137
SANDE RAILWAY STAT.,
SANDEFJORS, 33
Hotels : Kong Carl ; Heid-
mark's. Baths : 110 kr. per
course of six weeks. Table
d'hdte, 40 kr. per month.
R., 6-14 kr. per week.
SANDEFJORD, 89
. SANDEID, 103
SANDENE, X33, 138
SANDERSTOLEN, 50
SANDP^RHUS, 162
SANDHORN, 171
SANDHORN ISLAND, 171
SANDN^S, 99, loi
SANDNBSJOEN, 168, 169, 170
SANDO, 126, 139
SANDSFJORD, 103, 104
SANDSTANGBN, 25
SANDTORV, 176, 177
aANDVAND,^^,xTg
SANDVASLAAGEN S^-
TER, 147
SANDVEN, H9
8ANDVIK R., 19
SANDVIKEN, 29, 163
SANENUT, H9
SANNESUND, 26
8ARABRAATEN, 22
SARFSBORO, 26
Hotel: Christian$en*s.
SARPSF03, 26
SARTOR ISLAND, 103
SARTORO, n3
8AUEB0TNEN, 120
SAUENUT.^x
8AUESUND,i37
SEIDA, 181, i8s
8EIDAF08 [60]
SEILAND ISLAND, 179, 180
8EILAND8BR.E [29]
SEIM (Ovre Vasenden), 117,
126
Hotel : NaethHrn^ on lake ;
good. R, 1 kr. ; B., 80 0. ;
D., 1-1^ kr.
SEIMSDAL, 129
SEL (Gudbraudsdal), 85
SEL CH., 79
SELBU, 87, 88, 160, i6i
^tn. Lodge and Sana-
torium : 20 bedrooms ; good
table. Trout-fishing ; ptar-
migan and elk - shooting.
Fishing-box, with 3 R. pen-
sion, 50 kr. per month. AU
charges moderate.
8ELBUFJ0RD, 112
SELJESTAD, 41
SELSENG, 128
8EL8NUT, 114
SELSOVIK, X71
SEM, X64
SEM STAT., 33
SEMMELTIND, 67
SBNJEN ISLAND, X77
8EVALEN LAKE [69]
8E YEN 8I8TER8 MT8. [29] ,
X67, 168, 170
SIGDAL, 47. 55
SIGSTAD, 76
8IKEN LAKE, 148
SIKILSDAL, 60, 63
8IKIL8DAL8U6, 76
8IKU R.,\4,%
SILDEN ISLAND, X79
SILJORD, 37
8IMLEAA R., 66
8IMLEBR^ENy 66
SIMLEHITLTIND, 64
SIMLfiTINJ), 66
SIMOA «., 47
SIMODAL, X2I
SIMONSTAD, 91
SINDERLIEN, 50
8INGLEFJ0RD, 26
SINGSAAS, 88
8IRE 72., 98
SIREDAL, 98
81REDALVAND LAKE, 98
SIVEAA R. [67]
SIVENFOS, 47
SIVESIND, 49
8IVLEF08, X25
8JAAEN LAKE, 44
S J^RDALEN, 47
SJjERKERHATTEN [28]
SJERNERO ISLANDS, 104
8J0A, 58, 60, 63, 77
SJONGSHELLER CAVE, 139
8JUNKFJ0RD, 172
SJUNKTIND, X72
SJURSBIKE, 103^
SJTJS^T, 118
8KAALA, 147
SKAAN^S, 165
SKAARE, 103, 116, 134
8KAAREN, X43
SK^RJEHAVN, 126
SKAGASTOLTIND [31], 62.
65, 68, X31
SKAGEFLAAEN, X43
SKAGELFLAAF08, 143
8KAGERAK, 6
8KAQET, 63
8KAL R. [66]
8KAL8J0, X63
SKALSTUGAN, 163
SKAMMESTEIN, 50, 62
SKARDAL8EGGEN, 66
8KARDAL8TIND, 64, 67
8KARD0REN PASS, 87
SKAREDAL, 41
SKARN^S, 28
SKARNSUND, 165
SKARPSNO, 15
-SA^iJ/Sf/'0ia,42, 1x8, X19
SKARSMITEN, 45
SKAR8TENFJELD, X34
SKARSTIND, 67
SKARSYAAGSNjERING, X83
SKARVDORSFJELD, 87
SKATESTROM, 137
SKATVOLD CH., 162
SKAUMA,i4
SKA UG UM8AA8EN, 39
SKAUTA R., 65, 66, 68,
71
24]
INDfiX AND DtRECTOET TO NOBWAY,
SKAUTFLYEN^fA
aKAUTH6,66
SKBI. SeeVASENDEN.
SEEI FARM, 167
SKEIKAMPEN, 75
SKEIM R, [67]
8KEJ8HE8T, 138
SKI STAT., fl7
SEIAKEB, 79, 130, 146, 147
8KIAKER MTS., 131
SKIBOTTEN, 179
8KIB0TTEN R. [71]
8EIEK, 35, 3d, 89
Hotels : Boyerit next to
railway stat, and olose to
qiiav. B., l'5O-6'60 kr. ;
B., 1 kr. ; table tPMte, 3-3-50
kr. ; S. 1*50 kr. Royal and
Oratid (in centre of town)
very good and moderate.
8KILLEFJ0RD, x8o
8KINNEGGEN, 62
SKINNESUND, 55
SKJ^GGEDAL, 119
8KJj£GGEDALSF0a, 119
8KJ^GGEDAL8VAND, X19
SKJ^GGESTAD I RIN-
GEBU, 75
8KJjEKERHAT, 16s
SKJ^BDAL, 138
SKJ^BDALEN STAT., ao
8KJjERINGDAL8 R., 134
SKJ^RJBHAVN, 136
SKJEBERG STAT., 26
SKJELDALBN FABM, 116
SKJELN^S, ZX4, Z15
SKJELSTAD, 165
SKJEBGEDAL S-ffilTEB, 129
SKJEBPE, 135
8KJERPENUT, 125
8KJER8TADFJ0RD, 272
8KJERVEN, 169
SKJEBVO, 179
SKJERV8F08, 117
SKJOFTBHAITGEN, 164
SKJOMELVDAL, 176
8KJ0MENFJORD, 176
SKJONSTU, 172
SKJONSTXJDAL, 172
SKJONTINGSMSG, 184
SKJORAFJORD, 166
SKJORENFJORD, 151
SKJOLDEN, 60, 67, 70, 71,
129* 131
8KJ0RTA, 139, 150
SKJYKUAAS, 49
8K0DBERG, 114
SK6RSDALF08, 1x5
SEOGADAL, 69
8K0QADAL8B0EN, 61, 68-71,
X31
8K0GAD6LA R., 69
SK0GAF08, 145
SKCXJN CH., X62
8K0G8EIDVAND, 1x5
SK0G8H0RN, 55
SKOGSTAD, 51, 63
SKOLLENBOBG STAT, 42
SKOLLEBTJD, 57
SKONEVIG, 113
8K0NEVIG8FJ0RD, 1x3
SKOPUM STAT., 31
8K0RPA [33]
SKOBPEN, XX3, X49
8K0R8J6, X64
8K0RVEF08, 1x7
SKOTET, X42
SKOTGAABDEN, 87
SK0TIF08, 104
8K0TKLEVEN, X44
SKOTSELVEN STAT., 46
SK0T8FJ0RD, 142
8K0T8ffAL8, 142
SK0T8TINDER, 175
8K0T8UND, 175
8K0TTEHAMMER, 144, X75
SKOTTEBUD STAT., 28
SKOUGEB STAT., 31
SKBAUTHVAL OH, 61
SKREDAHO [30]
SKREDEVAND, X33
SKREDNAKKEN, X43
SKREIFJELD, 73, 85
SKRWULAUPE, 79, X34
SKRIKE, 127, X28
8KRIKJ0R, xi8
SKRIMFJELDENE, 43
SKRIM8K0LLA [30]
SKRUVEN, X36
SEUDEN^S, X32
8KUDEN^8FJ0RD, 105
8KUD8H0RN, 51
SKULEBTJD, 25
8KURDAL8AA R., 161
8KURDAL8J0, 161
SKURDAL8P0RT [28], x6i
SKURVEN08I, 131
SKUTVIK, 176
8KYKKEF0a, 121
SLAADALEN, 147
8LAATAFJELD, 69
8LANGEN LAKE, 60
SLEMDAL, 34
BLETHAVN, 65, 67, 68, 70
Hospice : mana^g^ by
I Amund ElTesteter. Ofaar^gea
fixed by the Tourist A;aaocl -
ation« Guides to G^jende-
boden 6 kr. (horse 10 kr.) ;
Boiseim 5 kr. (8 kr.) :
Skogadalsb'den 6 kr. (faorae
14 kr.)
8LETMARKH6, 63, 67
8LETTAF0S, 146
8LETTEFJELD, 129, 168
8LIDRE LAKE, 51
8LIDREFJ0RD, 50
SLTNDE, X27
SLIPEB, 83
SLONDALSiETBE, X32
SMAADAL, 58, 65, 66
SMAABAL S^TER, 66
8MAA8HAR, X35
8MEDDAL LAKES, 52
SMIUGJELA, 66
SMOLEN ISLAND, X50
SMOBDALSiBTEB. See
SMAADALS^TER
SMORKLEP, 39
SMORSTABBEN, 70
SMORSTABBR^EEN [3x]
8M6RSTABTINDER, 65, 67,
70
8M6RTJERNF08, 4X
8M0GET PASS, 69
SNAASEN CH., X64
SNAA8ENVAND, 163, X64
SNABUM, 54
SNA RUM R., 47
SNASAHOGARNE, x6i
SNEHjETTA [30], 60, 65,
8X-83, X47
SNEHULTIND, 64, 69
SNEBLE, 60, 77, 78
SNILTSVEIT, X14
iS^a /2., 148
SOBEBG, 88
SODOBP OH., 76
SUHOLT, 139, X4X, 142
Hotels : Rasmussen't ; 7**
SShoWt Ente (poor) new H.
in construction.
SOKELVFJORD, 141
£f5Z^iV, 75
SdLVSBERG, 48
SONDELED R, [67]
SONDELIDFJORD, 90
SdNDENFJELDSKE, NOR
HOI r [27]
SdNDFJORD, 130, 133, 136,
137
SONDMOBB, 126, 135, 137,
139. 142
SONDMOREFJORI), 6x
liJDEX AND DIKECTO&T TO NOftWAY.
[25
SONDRE FRON, 76
SONDRE MiBREET, 50
SOR HONNINGVAAG, 183
SORBOVAAG, 137
SORBM, 60, 78, 80
SORFJORD, h2, 116, XI 7, 118,
120, X22, Z78
SORFJORDENS KIRKES-
TED, 178
SORKEDAL, 22
SORO ISLAND, 179, x86
SOR68UND, 179
SOR-RANEN, 169
SORnRANEN FJORD, 170
SORSKJOMDAL, 176
S6R8UND, 149
SOKXTM:, 57
SORVIKSUND, i6j
SOVEIEN, 179
SOVIK, 168, 170
SOGGENDAL R. [67]
SOONDAL (Sogn), 98, 127,
Hotels : Danielseh's, yery
good; Sehielderup*8.
80GNDAL R., 98
SOGNDALSPJiEREN, X28
80GNDAL8FJ0RD, 125, 127
SOGNDALSVANDy 128
SOGNE FJELD, 70
80GNE FJORD, 125-136, 58,
60, X20, 124
800NESJ<), 136
80ILEVAND, X22
80KNA A, 84
SOKNEDAL, 84
80LBERGFJ0RD, 177
SOLBJORGENUT, 125
SOLE, xoi
80LENFJELD, 86
SOLFJELD ROCKS, 114
SOLFONN [32]
SOLHBIMSVIKEN, 122
SOLIS^TER, 120
SOLLIEN CH., 86
80LLIVAND, 172
80LN6RVIK, 141
SOLNUTy 118
SOLSIVAND, 132
SOIVOEN (Lyster), 128, 129
Hotel and posting stat.;
tolerably good and moder-
ate
SOMN^S, x68
80NDERVIKEN, 87
SORSKJOMAL, 176
SOULE LAKE, 91
SPARBTJEN CH., 163
SPERLE, 130, 131
SPIKESTAD STAT., 30
SPILLTJM, 164, 167
8PIRILLEN, 55, 57
BPITEHSTXTLEN, 65,66,68,
70
Ho^pioe managed by Rolf
Sulheim. Guides and horses
always to be had. R. 60 b.
Guide to Galdhbpiggen 5 kr.
for 1 person, and 2 kr. for
every other up to 20 kr.
1 kr. to be added when the
ascent is made oid the Gjuv-
yashytte. Glitretind and
Memumtind same price.
Guide to Gjende 5 kr. ; to
the Gjuwashytte 3 kr. ; to
Rbiseim 2.50 kr. (with horse
6kr.)
SPITRA R., 66
SPROTEN, 164
STAAGAAPJGGEN, 77
8TAALET, 139
STAAREIM, 137
STAAVAND,4p
STABBENE LIGHT, 139
STABBEN ISLAND, 150
8TABUR8F0NN, 143
BTABUR8N^8 R., [71]
STAI, 86
STALHEHC, 124, 127, 132
Hotel : 8todheim. Best H.
in interior of Norway.
Dining R. accommodates
260. Beds 170. Electric
lighting. Dark chamber for
photography. Cuisine ex-
cellent. Reading, smoking,
and drawing R. Every
possible comfort and con-
venience. Charges : R. from
li kr. ; B. li kr. ; H. 2 kr. ;
S. 1| kr. Pension for 3 days
and more 5 kr. per diem,
Guides to mts. available.
STALHEIMS F08, X25
8TALHEIM8BERG, 124
STALHEIM8 R., 125
STALHEIM8KLEV, 125
STALLTJERNSTUGAN, 163
STAMN^S CH., 170
STAMStTND, 175
8TANDAL8H0RN, 136
STANDEBARM, 114, 115
STANGE, 85
STANGEN^ES, 185
STANGHELLE, 123
STANGVIK, 148
STANGVJKFJORD, X48
STARDAL, 133
STAT, 139
STATHELLE, 89
STATLAND, 156
STAVAHOSR, 99, 105
Hotels : Grand Hotel : ex -
oellent. R. from2kr. Table
d'hdte, 3 kr. Warm and cold
baths. ffotelPhifnix: good.
Club : opposite the Cath.
Strangers can be intro-
duced gratis for 8 dys. by
a member.
Post-offioe : in Ovre
Strand st., close to the
Market place. Open from
9 A.M. to 7 P.M., and on
holidays from 8.30 to 9.30
A.M. f
T9.1egraph-offiee : comer
of Ovre Holme st., and
Eirke st., 6.40 a.m. to 8.40
P.M.
Bank: Stavanger Private
Bank, near Market place.
TouziBt and Fiidiery
Agent : T. Bennett, on the
quay.
Carriages : supplied at
hotels.
Boats : 10 5. over the
Vaagen harbour; bargains
for other trips.
Baths, Warm : Jorenhol-
men, from 8 a.m. to 7 p.m.
Baths, Sea : Stromstenen.
Chemists : Hygitea, in
Kirkest.; Ji}orten,'m. Pe-
ders St. ; Svane, 6 the
Market place.
Theatre : near Rly. Stat.
Performance only occa-
sional.
Booksellers : J. Floor,
P. Steenberg, and L. Gabri-
elsen, all in Eirke st.
Photographs and Art
Objeots: C. KSmer, Eirke
St.
Jewellers and Antiquity
Shops: G. Hellstrbm and
Imsland ; both in Kirke st.
Museum: Nedre Strand
St. Open Sun. and Thurs.
from 12 to 1, but visible on
any other day by application
to keeper. (See body of
Handbook for contents.)
Art Association : in Lbk-
keveien. A collection of
Norwegian pictures. Open
Sun. and Wed. from 12 to
2 p.m.
Tourist Association: this
continues to do much for
the improvement of com-
munications from Stavan-
ger and for the comfort
and convenience of travel-
lers, who are readily aided
by it in their travelling
^6]
INDEX AITD DmsClTdSt 1*0 ISToUWAY.
glans, &o. It has esta-
lished waiting-rooms and
lavatories close to the
steamship quay. Admit-
tance, 25 '6.
STAVaNUTy^x
STAVSTJERN, ^i
STEDJE CH., 137
STEENHOLT, 141
STEGADN, 132
STEGANOai, X31
BTEGETIND, 176
STEIEN, 83
STBIGKJAAJID, 76
STEINDE, so
STEINDOLA, 70, 71
STBINE, IIS
BTEINSDAL, 115
STEIN8T7ND. See INDRE
STEINSUND
STEMSHEST, 149
STBN, 144
STEKKJiER, 163, 164, i6s
HoteU ; 27iorbj6rnson's
and iffaakenstnen ; recom-
mended. Bbtels full when
cavalry is drilling.
STENKJ^R R., [63, 63]
8TEN8FJ0RD, 20
STBNVIGEN, 86
STIKLESTAD, 163
STIKVAS A, 91
STILVASSA R., 170
STJORDAL, xsi, 159, 160, 161,
162, 164
8TJ6RDAL R [62, 63], 161, 162
STJORDALSHALS, x6i
STJORDALSHALSEN, 160,
162
STOLEN, 121
STOlNOSTIND, 129
STOLSNAASTINDER, 62, 69
STOEN, 87, 90
BTO'BEN, 84, 88
Hotela : Storlien ; *' Jam-
vdgs-hotellet" ; "Jfya Ho-
telletr
STOTT ISLANDS, 171
STOK ISLAND, 166
STOKKE STAT. 33
8T0K8UND, x66
8TOL8FJ0RD, 98
STOR BJQNEYAND, 94
8T0R FJORD, 135, 141, 142
8T0R /2., 20, 47
BTORAADAL VALLEY, 64,
66,67
STORAADOLA, 67, 69
8T0RB^KU0, X50
STORB^KMOEN, 86
8T0RBERGN^8, X41
STORDALEN, 142
8T0RDAL R,, X42
STORDO, X03
/Sr^o^A' bOroefjeld [28]
STORE BUKKBN ISLAND,
X02
STORE GALDHQPIGQEN
[31]
^STrO/Z^ MELKEDAL8VAND,
69
^T(>i2^ ^VCTP i/TA 40
8T0RE SJODALSVAND, 60
STORE UTLA, 70, 71
STOREBRUFOS, s8
STORELVDAL, 86
STORESJONA FJORD^ 170
STORBVOLDSiETER, 87
STORPALE, 83, 150
STORFJELD, 142, 185
STORFJELDS^TER, 76, 86
STORFOS, 43
STORFOSSEN, 6x
STORFOSSENE [60]
STORE ATTEN, X46
STORUAUGEN MT,, 128,
STORffd, X46
STORVIK SiBTER, 60
STORKLEVESTAD, 60
STORLI, 150
STORLIEN, i6x
ST0RMDALSF08, X70
STOROJRA, 143
STORS-fflTER, X46
STORS^TER LAKE, 141
STORS^TEREN, X48
ST0R8JSTERF08, 143
STORSJO lake, 85, 86
ST0R8KARVEN [29]
STORSTBN, 178
STORTINDy 170
STORVAAGEN, 175
STORVIAy 143.
STRAABEKOLLEN, 104
STRAITD (Vraadal), 92
STRAND. See FAGER-
STRAND
STRANDE (Moide), 140, 147
STRANDE LAKE (Valdera),
50
STRANDBARMSBrGD, 1x5
STRANDEFJORD [69], 50, 55
STRANDEFOS, 42
STRANDEN, 142 |
STRANDTIND^ 172
STRBNGBN, 36
STRINDEFJORD, 164
STROEN, 55
STROMHYLLA, 164
STROMO ISLAND, 172
STROMN^S, 137
STROMSHORN^ 14X
STROMVAXDET^ 63
STROMMBN, 72, 93, 165
STROMSN^S, 176, 180
STROMSO, 30
8TRUELVAND, 120
STRUPBN, X79
STETH (Visnasa), 134, 135,
138
Hotel : Central. Very
good.
i8f772rjr Z.4^^, X34
iSrizi'Ar i2. [67]
8TRYNSVAND LAKE, 78
STUEDALEN, 87
STUEFLAATEN, 142, X45,
146
STUBN, 84
STUESJO LAKE [69], 87
STUGUN68T MT. [31], 52
8TYGGEBRMEN, 66
STYGGEDALSTIND, 68, 71
STYGGEFONN FOa, X45
STYVB, 132
^crz;^ R., 79
SULAFJELD, 167
8ULDAL LAKE, X04
SULDAL R. [64]
SULDALSPORT CHASM, X04
SULEDALBN CH. 104
SULEN CH., 136
SULEN ISLAND, 136, X41
SULETIND MT. [31], 52, 62
SULJTJELMA [28], 51, 72
SULSTUEN, X63
SUND, 171
SIJNDAL (Mauranger fjord),
114, IIS
Hotels : Sundal. Very
good accommodation (lU
beds) and excellent food
and wine. Guide ovsr the
Folgefonn. Gotskalk Gjerde
(\ hr. from Suldal) best.
Samson OlafssSn also re-
commended. Fee for ascent
of Bondhus glacier 1*60 kr.
Same charge for a horse.
SUNDALEN, 79, 83, 134
SUNDAL8 R. [63]
SUNDAL8FJELDENE [30]
IITDEX AlfD DIBSOTOBT TO ttOSMAY.
[27
SUJ>II>AL8FJ0RD, 148-150
SUNDALSOREN, 83, 150
SUNDBYGD, 37
STJNDB, 164
BUNDEFOS, 115
SXJNDN^ESHAVN, 165
SUirsyOLSEK, zo
Motel : Excellent bed-
rooms (17 with 30 beds).
Very clean. Moderate.
SUyiTE R., 135
SUJ)rjVELVSFJORD, 135, 142,
143. 144
SUPHELLE S^TBR, 130
aifPHELLEBRJEN [30], 127
SURENDAL, 147, 148
SURENDAL R, [63]
8URENDAL8 FJELDENE
C30]
SURENDALSFJORD, 149, 150
SURENDALSKOG, 148
SUBENDALSOREN, 148
SURNA R [63], 148
BUSBNDAL, 169
SUSEN R., 169
SV^RE/'VORD, 127
8V^RESKAS MT.y 133
SV-ajRHOLT, 184
SV^RHOLTKLUBBEN, 184
SVANfiOS\jo1
BVANO, 137
SVARTDAL VALLEY, 64
S VA RTDA LSBANDET, 64
aVARTDALSGLUPET, 64
SVARTDALaoXLI, 64
SVARTDAL8PI00E, 63, 64
SVARTDOLA i2., 64
8VARTEBERG, 5a
aVARTEGJEL, 53
aVARTEKARl, 137
SVARTEVIKHOLM, 137
5F:4i227-SJ&.V [29], 170, 171
aVEABRO, 135
SVEEN, 49, 58, 133, 137
SVEIGSiETER, 120
8VELBERG, 119
aVEUENOaiy 65
aVELNAA8BR^ GLACIER,
66
SVENiES CH., 50
SVENNINGDAL, 169
SVENNINGDAL LAKE [69]
SVOLVJSR, 173, 174, 175,
176
SrOLV^RJURA, 174
8V0NAADAL, 82
SKOi^i? A, 82, 83
aVUKUFJELD [28]
SYDKROGO, 166
SYGNEFEST, 126
SYLTE, 142, 144, 146
Hotel : Guilder Grffnn-
ingsceters. Improred 1891.
Dear. Lendsmand MbUer
willing to give assistance
and inCormation to travel-
lers.
aVLTEFJORD, 185
aYLTENAKKEN, 142
8YLT0PPENE [28]
aYNaUORN, 63
aVNaTAALKIRKE, 79
araTRAND, 127
8YV adaTRE. See SEVEN
SISTERS.
T.
TAANING, 115
TAARNVIK STAT., 172
TAFJORD, 142
TALGO, 104
TALGS/O, 150
TALVIK, 180
TAMSO ISLAND, 184
TANA [60, 70], 181, 185
TANAFJORD, 184
TANAHORN, 185
TANANGER, loi
TANGEN (Drammen), 30, 85
TANGEN(Hitterdal), 46
TANUM CH., 29
TARJEBUDAL, 41
TARV ISLANDS, 166
TAUTRA ISLAND, 164
TCKEVAND LAKE, 90
TEIGEN, 160
TEINEFOa [66]
TELEMARKBN, 35
TELNESET STAT., 87
TENG R, [64, 65], 98, 99
TERAAK, x68
TEROBN, 113
TEaaE LAKE, 58, 66 ^
TEaSE R., 78, 79
TEVLA R., 161
TEVLDAL, 161
THIMB, 99
THORN^S, 105
THORVIK,a45
TIAA, 148
TINGNiES, 137
TING VOLD FJORD, 148
TINNE R. AN J) LAKE [69],
44, 46, 1 18
TINNF08, 46
TIITNOSET, 44
Hotel : TinnoKt,fsiQo^ and
moderate (often crowded)*
R. 1-20 kr. ; B. 1 kr. ; D. 2
kr. ; 8. 1-20 kr.
TINNSJO. See TINNE
TiaLEIA R,, 50
TI8LEIFJ0RD, 55
TiaTA R., 24
TISTEDALEN, 25
TJODLING STAT., 33
TJOMd, 33
Sanatorium and Sea-
bathing. Terms very mode-
rate. Prospectus by post.
TJOMO ISLAND, 89
TJONNADALSFOS, 42
TJOSE STAT., 34
TJOTO ISLAND, 168
TJUGUM, 127
TJUKNING8SU, 67, 68
TODAL, 150
TODAL R. [67]
TODALEN, 150
TONJUM CH., 54, 64, 13a
TONNA R. [29], 87
T6'NSB££0, 32
Hotels : Victoria, and
Dessen's (Club House).
TdNaSERG TONDE, 89
TtiNSET, 84, 86, 87
Hotels : *' achulrucPs "
(good) ; Jernbane and Heide^s
private Hotel.
TO FTAH AUG STOLEN, 128
TOFTE, 82
TOFTEMCEN, 80
TOGGA MT, 128
TOGNING SiETER, 135
TOKEIM, 118, X19
TOKEIMSDAL, 115
TOKEiaaNUT, 115, 119
TOKEVAND LAKE, 90
TOl^E R., 39
TOLGEN, 87
TOMA ISLAND, 170
TOMLEVOLDEN, 49
TOMREFJORD, 139
TONGA R., 148
TONSAAS, 58
TOKSAASEN SAKATOR-
IUM,49
Pension: 115-170 kr. for
4 weeks : or 4.50-6.50 kr. per
day. Season, Jane 1-Sept.l6.
TOPDAL R. [67], 5
I T0PDAL8FJ0RD, 5
TOPPEN, 146
28]
INDE^ AND mUEOTOKt T?0 NOBWAY.
TORA, 79
TORBJ0RN8TODNA, 123
TORBUVANDy 147
TORFINNSDAL, 63, 64
T0RFINN8HULLET, 64
TORFJNNSTIND, 6a, 63, 64
TORFINNVAND, 116
TORGET, 168
TORGFJORD, id8
TORGHATTEN [29], 167, 168
TORNING, 164
TORPB, 55
TORRISDAL R. [65], 4, 91, 9a
TORSNUT, n8
TORSTAD, 128
TORSTAD KNAKKEN, X28
TORVEN, 126
TORVMODALBN, 161
T08ENFJ0RD, 168
T'Or^JS: Z4^^, 38, 45
TOTEN, 127
TOTTA, 176
TR^DAL, 126
TR^HNJSSHAT, 168
TRJBNEN ISLAND, 170, 171
TRJEN8TA VEN [29]
TRANO, 176
TREKNAT, 57
TREKNATTEN FJELD, 57
TRENGBREID, 123
TRESFJORD, 139, 141, 144
TRE8F0NN [32]
TRETTEN OH., 75
TREUNGEN CH., 92
TBISiBT,37
Inn: 7V'tfn^«'«d, tolerable.
Hotel : Bdkke'Sy very good
and moderate. Boat and
rower 2-2*50 kr. per day.
TROBERG, 168
TROMO ISLAND, 91
TR0M68UND, 178
TROGSTAD STAT., 72-
TROLDET, 83
TROLDFJORD, 174
TROLDHEIM, 148, 150
TROLDHEIM S^TER, 148
TROLDKONEBAR, 123
TROLDTINDERNE [36], 139,
145
TROMSDAL, 178
TR0M8DALTIND, 178
TEOMSCf, 177, 178
Hotels : Grand and Nor-
den.
TROMS R., 56, 75
TRONDEN^S CH., 177
T£Oin)HJEH, X56-160
Hotels (Bee plan) : Brit-
annia : ezoellent in every
respect. R., 1.60 kr.-lO kr.
B., 1.60 kr.-2 kr. Table
d'Mte (2 P.M.), 3 kr. D.
(separate), 4 kr. S., 1.60
kr.-2 kr. Baths. English
and other newspapers. Om-
nibus and carriages.
Angleterre : verv good,
and same prices. Omnibus
and carriages.
Nordkap : very good. B.,
from 1.60 kr. B., 1.60 kr.
D., 3 kr. S., 1.60 kr.
Onmibus.
Grand H. : R., 1.60 kr.
to 10 kr. Table SMte
(2 P.M.), 2 kr., and D.
(6 P.M.), 4 kr.
Bestaurants: Theatre Re-
/reshment-room : B. d la
carte; also at the Hjorten
MuHc-hally Ulevolden, and
at the Harmonien Club.
Gonf eotioner : E. Erichsen.
C. Grahn (cc/*^), 10 Dron-
ningen st.
Gabs: stationed in Mun-
kegaden, Lilletorvet and
Sondre st. Fares under
revision.
PoBting-house, 22 Prind-
sen St. Horses, carrioles,
&c., can be ordered at T.
Bennett's.
Post and Telegraph
Offices: comer of Nordre
and Kongen st. Open all
day. On Sun. Post-ofQce
open only from 8 to 9.30
A.M.
Telephone Stat : near
Market place, from 8 am.
to 10 P.M.
Banks and Honey Chan-
gers : Norgei Bank, corner
of Eongen st.
Nordenfjeldske Kredit
Bank, Dronningen st.
Private Bank and Tron-
dH^jem's Handels Bank (both
in Sondre st.), R. Kjelds-
berg, Strand st., and T,
Bennett (see below).
Bennett' s Tourist Agency,
Dronningen st. (opposite
Britannia H.) Business
same as at Ghristiania and
Bergen (which see). Highly
recommended to British and
American tourists for as-
sistance, information, pho-
tographs, antiquities, dec.
Steamship Offices : JVbr
denffeldike and Bergenske,
62 Kj'dbmands st. Wilson
Line, Fjord st.
Anglican Church Service :
held in the Hospital ch.,
Kongen st. (see notices at
hotds).
Brit Yioe-OonsaUte : 15
Strand st.
U.S. OoBB, Ageney: 26
Munke st.
Baths: ** TrondhjemsBad,"
1 Dronningen st. Turkic :
daily, except Moa. and Fri^
when steam baths are pro-
vided; also at Bamumien,
Munkest. 8ea-bathing near
the rl^. Stat.
Hairdresser : If. Oyen, 11
Strand st. ; Petersen, Norrlre
St. (speaks English).
Shops (English spoken) :
Booksellers : A. Brun, 10
Kongen st. Englisli books,
maps, guides, photographs,
dec. ; H. Eriksen, 17 Strand
St., and H. Moe, 44 Munke
St. (see also above : Ben-
nett's Tourist Agency).
Furs, Eiderdotm, and
Antiquities : J. N. Bmun
(excellent assortments),
Strand st. Furs also at
F. Martensen's in same st.,
A. Evensen's, Munke st.,
and C. Olson's, Kongen sL
Chemists : " L&ve ** and
"Svane,** near Market place,
and '' mort'*'Apothek, in
Kongen st.
Silversmiths: H. Holler,
Nordre st., Ole Aas and
J. A. Mdller, Dronningen st.
Saddlery, Trunks, Ac. : A.
Andersen, Dronningen st.,
and L. Hansen, Strand st.
Cutlery, Norwegian : Blik-
stad, Munke st.
Fishing Tackle, Cartridges,
Ac. : 0. Fonues, G. A. :^rt-
man, E. Grdnning (all in
Strand St.); J. and N. Buck,
Kongen St., and E. D. Mog-
stad, Sdndre st.
Wines, Preserved Provi-
sions, Groceries, Ac : B.
Kjeldsberg, 16 Strtuid st.
(highly recommended. Eng-
lish money, circular notes,
<&c., changed) ; M. H. Lund-
green's Enke, Munke st.
TRONDHJEM FJORD, 151,
x6o, X62, 164
TRONDHJEM (Valders), 49
TR0NDHJEM8LEDEN, 150
TRONDJEM PLATEAU [29]
TRONFJELD [32], 86, 87
TRONCES, 163, 165
TRONSTAD, 135
TRU8TERVAND [71]
TRUTENTIND, 176
TRYDAL, 93
, TRYSIL R. [69, 70]
INDEX AND DIBBOTOEY TO NOEWAY.
[29
TRYSIL, 8s
TUrJORD, 182
TTJN.S:S, 183
Tirt OB I VANG, 51
TUNQB, 102
TUNGBN^S, 99, xox
TUJ^HQVD, 55
TUJ^ SBERQDALS-BR^, 130
TURTBaRO, 60, 70, 71, 131
TUSSENUT, 141
TUSTEN, 140
TUSTEHBN ISLAND, 150
TVEDESTRAND, 90, px
TVBIT, 121
TVEITAF08, 1x7
TVEITE KVI, 115
TVEITE VAND, 39
TVEITNUT, XI9
TVEITO, I2X, 122
TVEITSDAA, 92
TVEIT8UND, 93
TVERAABRJS GLACIER^tS
TVERBOTTENHORNENE.jo
TVILLINOER, 170
TVINDEFOa, 124
TVINDBHOUG, 62, 68, 69
TVINDE (Voss), 124
Hotel : new, good.
TYDALBN, 160
TYIN LAKE, 62, 51, 58, 61,
68^69
Hotels : Jotunttdlm and
Framnces at S. end of the
lake; Tvindehaugen^ and a
new hotel at the N. end, at
the terminus of tl^ new
road.
TYRHAUG LIGHT, X50
TYRIFJORD LAKE, 19, 47
TYSFJORD, 176
TYSLA, 86
TYSNiBSO, XI3
TY8NEaAATA, 1x3
TYSNESOBN, 103
TYaaA, 118, X19
TYSSEDAL, xi8, 119
TY8aEDAL8NUT, 119
TYSSE 8TRENGENE, 119
TYSTIG, 134
TYVBN ISLAND, x8o
TYVENUT, 1x7
TYVOLD, 88
TJBERG, 9x
UDSTBNS KLOSTBR, 102
UP, 84
^^lA, 54, 79
ULADAL8BANDET, 66
ULADAL8MUND PA88, 66
ULADAL8TINDER, 64, 65,
66,67
ULADAL8TJ6N, 66
ULADAL VALLEY ,66, 70, 80
ULADOlA R., 67, 70
ULEF08, 36
Hotel : Aaheim (^ hr. from
pier); excellent; R. 2 kr. ;
B. 1 kr. ; D. 2 kr. ; S. 1.50 kr.
ULBVAAGER, 40
ULEVAND, 40
ULLENHAUQ, xox
ULLEN8VANQ, 1x7, 118
ULN^S CH., so, 5S
ULO ISLAND, 179
UL8FJ0RD, X78
UL8VAAG, X39
ULVAA R., 146
T7LVAADAL, X46
ULVEN, 85
TJLVIJL, X20, 1X2, X16, 1x7, X32
Hotels : Westreni's and
Braskences: both good; close
(1.) to pier and ch. R. from
1 kr. D. 1-2 kr. Usual
charge for other meals.
Willemsen^s (Boarding-
house) on a hill, opposite
side of r. Beautiful view.
Hotels often full. Best to
telegraph from Bide
ULVJKFJORD, 112, X20
ULVIKKEN, 103
UNDAL, 97
UNDAL R. [67], 98
UNDALS MINES, 84
UNDBRDAL, X32
URABOT, xxs
URADAL, 68, 69, 70
URADAL8BANDET, 68
URADAL8VAND, 68, 69
URADGLA R.y 68. 70
URANAA8TIND, 62, 63, 68
URDVIK, 93
URN^S, X29
URTFJELD, 170
URTVAND, X70
USKEDALEN, 1x3
U88BERG, 84, 87
UTBO (Siljord), 37
UTFJORD, 134
UTIGAARD, 146
UTLA R., 61, 70
UTLADAL, 67, 69, 70, 131
XTTHE, xx6-ii8, xxa
Inn : Excellent. Well re-
puted for cleanliness, com-
fort, and moderate cluurges.
UTNEFJORD, xi6
UTROVAND, 57
UTSIRE ISLAND, xo2
UTVIKEN. SeeV^RLO
V.
VAA,44
VAAGE, 60, 66, 104, X44, 147
VAAGEKOLLEN l-ig], 17S
VAAGE LAKE, s^,(>o
VAAGBRSTUEN, 60
VAAGLI8VAND, 40
VAAG8FJ0RD, 1x7
VAA.GS6, 137, 139
VAALAA8J0, 77
VAALANDSPIBE, xox
VAALE BRIDGE, 76
VAALEF08, 93
VAALER BRO, 76
VAAR8TIAA, 83
VAATABAKKEN, 164
VAATEDAL, X33
YASHEIH (Sogne), 126, X32
Hotel: Vadheim; Posting
Stat. Clean and comfort*
able ; 40 beds. Moderate.
Agency for Bennett's con-
veyances.
VADHEIM8FJ0RD, X26
VASS'd, x86, x8x, X85
Hotel : Krog'i. Poor.
Lodgings cheaper. 8hop
for Russian and Lappish
curiosities. Wines, spirits,
dec, excellent at 8amlag.
Y^SBLTTNOSKJES, X44-X46,
78, X41, X42
Hotels : Omum^t. (Ex-
cellent stat.) ; Botntddl,
very comfortable, with Sal-
mon-fishing facilities in the
Rauma. Ooides, Uoensed
by Tourist Association, M.
Soggemoen and E. Nord-
luigen.
ViBGBN, 168
V JBNBBYGT, 76
VuERA R., 163
V^RDAL, X63
VjERDAL R, [62, 63]
VuERDAL8FJ0RD, X62
30]
IITBEX AND DIBBOTORY TO NOEWAT.
yjBBDALSOSSV, 163, 165
A. Sitew^t B<Murding-
hoQM; good.
V-BRHOLMEN, 126
yjSSLO (irtviken), 133, 134,
138
Hotels: Loen't or Bri-
tannia.
VjERMEFOS, 145, 146
V-aiRNES CH., 161, 164
V.fiRO, 137
V^RO ISLAND, 174
V.ERRAND8UND, 165
VAFOS, 3Q
VAGSVIK, 141
VAKSDAL, 123
VALBJERG, 101
VALDAL R. [67]
YALDALEN, 41, 142, 144,
146I
VALDERHAT7G ISLAND,
139
VALDERSHORN, 57
VALDERSSTROM, 57
VALDERSUND, 166
VA LDRESFL YEN PLA-
TEAU, 63
valdres-koldedOla R.,
68
VALIJOK [61]
VALLB, 60, 93
VALLERO, 139
VALLO, 33
VANG CH., 5t
VANGBN, 124
VANG8EN, 130
VAN08FJELD, 83
VANQSMJOSEN, 51
VANQSN^a, 127
VANG8VAND, 116, 123
VANNELVSFJORD, 137
VAX NELVaa ABET, 139
VANVIK, i6s
VARALDSO, X14, 115
VARANGERFJORD, 185, 186
VARDEHEI, 140
YARBl), 185
Hotel : Hataen^s, Lodg-
ings cheaper.
VARGEBAKKEy 63
VARG8UND, 180
VARHATJG, 99
VARJAG—NJARG PROM.,
184, 185
VA8DAL8EGGEN [32], 40
YASDELA S^TER, 120
YABERSEV (Nedie) (JSl-
fi*er), X33
Inn: JWeZ««i'« ; very com-
fortable.
YABSHDEK (Ovre) (Skei),
133
Hotel: Skei, at pier;
iSfton/«;^ at Fuglehaug ; ikU.
S. of Skei.
VASBT S^TBR, 50
VA8FJJSREN [31], 117, 120
VA8FJJSRFJ6RD, 120
VASFJELD, 151
VA88ENJ>ENF08, 119
VASrUN, 119
VASVENDAL, 134
VA8VENDALEGGEN, 134
VATN^S, 117
VATNB, loi, 136
VATNBDAL, 105
VATXEVAND, 136
VEFOa, 122
YEFSEV ESTATE, X69
Very gfood accommoda-
tion and food at ' ' Svenning-
dal House" (17 R.), and
"Fjeldbakmo House" (10
R.) three meals (fresh meat)
per day: charge, 15«. per
diem, including trout-flshing
in rivers and lakes, and
ptarmigan ihooting; charge
higher for a small party re-
quiring whole of a large
house; applv to Secretary
of North 01 Europe Land
Co., 1 Walbrook, London, or
to the manager at Halsben
(MosjSen) ; good accommo-
dation also at farm by ar-
rangement.
VEFSEy R. [62], 169
VEF8ENBUND, X69
VEF8ENFJ0RD, 168
VEGaUND, 141
VEISTBN, 59, 74
VEITE8TRAND LAKE, 128
VELFJORD, x68
VELO, 48
VELTVOLDEN, 59
VENGETINDERNE, X39, 145
VBNN^S, 165
VEO R,, 68
VEODALEN, 68
VEO GLACIER, 66, 68
VE8HOLD0, XX5
VESLB AADAL, 67
VE8LEAAD0LA R.,6g
VESLEFJELD, 64, 67
VE8LEF08, 50
VEaLEHORN, 56
VESTBY, 27
VEaTENFJELDSKE, JTOR-
WAY 127-^
VE8TFJ0RD, X73, 175, 176
VESTFOSSBN STAT., 42
VESTKJE8 (llolde), 141, 144
Hotel : Stanlep ; very com-
fortable.
VESTRAN, 164
VESTRE SLIDHB, 50. See
VOLDEN
Hotel: Olien; Pensua:
Einang.
VESTRE TOTEN, 49
VESTVAAGO ISLAND, 173
175
VETLEFASFJ^RElf, lao
VETLEFJORD, 127
VETLE-UTLA, 70
VETLEVAND, 119
VETTI, 69, 70
VETTI8F0a, 69, 125, 129
VETTI8GALDER, 69
VETTI8GJEL PAaS, 61
VETTISMORK S^TBR, 69
X29
VIA S2ETER, X34
VIBBERODDEN LIGHT, 98
VICTORIA HAVEN, 176
VIDDAL, 14X
VIDEDAL R., 134
VIE, X67
VIP0S,42
VIGEL, 87
VIGELANDSF08, 5
VIGELFJELD [28]
VIGRESTAD, 99
VIK (Hallingdal), 55
YIK (Hardang^X "<5» 121
122, 124
Hotel : Nceiheim** : good
but charges relatively high.
76 beds.
VIK (Indfjord), 144
YIH (Sogne), X26, 127
Comfortable quarters at
Hqpstoek't, storekeeper.
VIK FARM, 76
VIK STAT. (Ringerike), 20
VIK (Telemarken), 44
VIKEDAL, X29
VIKEN, 92, 93, x6i
VIKEB, 57
VIKBRSUND STAT., 47, 54
VIKHOLMEN, X70
INDEX ANT) DIEEOTOET TO NOEWAY.
[81
VXK1N08NJB8 (Hardanger),
Hotel : New, large, good.
VIKINA ISLANDS, 167
TTLKO (Rolfshus), 50, 55
VIKOR, IIS
VIKSOREN, 127
VIKSVAND, 133, 137
VIXilA LIGHT, 166
VIIL.URE, 118
"ST'XN^S, 116
VIJSrDAAEN R., 61
VJNDEFJORD, 104
VINBEFOa, 61
jriNLHELLEy 53
jriNDbLA A, 148
VINGEOREN, 150
VINGBR, 28
VUNJE (Voas), 124, 127
Station good and comfort-
able. Feruiony 4 kr. per day
if for a week.
VINJE CH., 39
VIJVJEFJORD, 149, 150
VIIfJERSjOEN, 28
VIN8TERVAND LAKES
C69], 50, 62
VINSTRA R., 63, 83
VISA R., 65, 66, 70
VISBRJS, 70
VISDAL VALLEY, 65, 67,
68,70
VISDALS SiBTER, 65, 66
VISN^S. SeeSTRYN.
VdRINGFOSy 45, 121
VOKSENKOLLEN, 19
VOLBUFJORDEN LAKE, 61
VOLD, 35, 144
YOLDEN (Sondm'dre), 136,
138, 139
Hotels : Noei (posting-
station). Gtood quarters also
at Svendsen's. Pension, 6 kr.
X>er day.
VOLLAKER. See SOLVORN
YOLDEN (Valders), 50
Pension : Einang; excel-
lent.
VOLBFJELD, 172
VORDALBN, 164
VORMA R.y 148
VORMELI S^TER, 68
VORMEN R. [70], 72, 73, 85
VORMTIND, 176
VOSS. See YOSSEVANGEN
VOSSE R. [64], 123, 124
VOSSE SJSTER, 116
V08SE8KAVLEN [31], 120
' YOSSESTRAND, 124
Y088EYANOEN, 116, 117,
123, 124, 132
HoUds: "Fleiicher's";
fine, Uurge ; excellent accom-
modation and cuisine. R.,
from IJ kr. ; B., 1.20 kr. ;
D., 2 kr. ; S., 1 J kr. « Meinr
hardtU" almost alongside ;
very good and moderate.
" Vossevangen," moderate ;
also ** Kjeller's** and ''Sdr-
heinCs.^* Lodgings procur-
able when hotels are full.
Anglican Ch. service in
schoolroom.
VR^NGEN SOUND, 33, 89
VRANFGFOS, 36
VRANGS A, 28
VULU R., 79
VULUNVADy 79
Y.
YMESFJELDE GLACIERS,
[31], 66, 67
YNNESTAD, 137
YTREDAL, 129, 142, 143
YTRE STJLEN, 136
YTTERDAL, 142
YTTERDALS SiETER, 67
YTTEROEN, 165
PBINTED BT
SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NRW-8TBEKT SQUARB
LONDON
MURRAY'S Handbook
ADVERTISER,
1892-1893
CONTAINING
USEFUL INFORMATION FOR TRAVELLERS,
RAILWAY
AND
STEAMBOAT COMPANIES,
HOTELS,
AND
MISCELLANEOUS ADVERTISEMENTS.
MUBRAT'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. Msj,
COMPAGNIE
!DES
MESSAGEBIES MABITIMES.
FROM MARSEILLES TO
AUSTBAIiLA. AND NEW CAIiEDONIA.
On the iHt or 8rd of eyeir month for Port-Said, Snez, Aden, Mahe
(Seychelles) King George's Sonnd, Adelaide, Melbourne, Sydney, Noumea,
transhipping at Mah^ for Reunion and Mauritius.
EAST COAST OF AFBICA.
On the 12th of every month for Port-Sai'd, Suez, Obock, Aden, Zanzibar,
Mayotte, Nossi-B^ (branch line for the West Coast of Mardagasoar), Diego-
Suarez, St. Marie, Tamatave, Reunion and Mauritius.
CHINA AND JAPAN.
Every alternate Sunday on and after 3rd May for Alexandria, Port-
Said, Suez, Aden, Colombo, Singapore (branch line for BataviaX Saigon
(branch line for Nha-trang, Quin-hon, Tourane, Thuanan, Hai-phong),
Hong-Kong, Sbang-hai, Kobe and Yokohama.
COBBBSPONDmO EVEBY FOUB WeEKB.
1° at Colombo for Pondichery, Madras and Calcutta.
2^ at Singapore for Samarang.
3^ at Saigon for Manilla.
KUBBACHEE, BOMBAY.
Branch line from Aden to Kurraohee and Bombay corresponding with the
East Coast of Africa and Australian lines.
MEDITEBBANEAN.
For Constantinople and Odessa every other Saturday (on and after 7th
May).
Constantinople and Black Sea ports every other Saturday (on and after
14th May).
Alexandria, Port-Said, Syrian Ports, Smyrna, Salonica, Piraeus (on and
after 7th May).
Pirseus, Salonica Smyrna, Syrian Ports, Port-Said, Alexandria (on and
after 14th May).
LONDON.
Weekly &om Marseilles to Havre and London (merchandise only).
FROM BORDEAUX TO
ATLANTIC OCEAN.
1® On the 5th of each month for Lisbon, Dakar, Rio Janeiro, Montevideo,
and Buenos Ayres.
2° On the 20th of every month for Lisbon, Dakar, Pemambuco, Bahia,
Rio Janeiro, Montevideo and Buenos Ayres.
3® On the 28th of each month (and optionally the 12th) for La Corogne,
Yigo, Porto Leixoes, Lisbonne, Las Palmas, Pemambuco, Rio Janeiro,
Santos, Montevideo, Buenos Ayres and Rosario (calling occaaianally at
I
FABIS: 1, BITE VIGNON.
^__.^-,_ . MABSEILLES: 16, BITE CANNBBIEBE.
OfflUSS ^ BOBDEATTX : 20, ALLJIES d'OBLSAKS.
LONDON: 97, CANNON STBBET, B.C.
1892. MDRRAT'S HANDBOOK ADVEBTISER 3
NORDDEUTSCHER LLOYD,
BREMEN.
Imperial and United States Mail Steamers.
THIS COMPANY ABS TREIB OWN IN8UBEB8.
The following magnlfloent Ezpran Steamen^
"Havel," "Spree," " Kaiser Wilhelia II.," "Lahn," "Saale,"
"Trave," "AUer," "Bme," "Werra," "Fulda," "Blbe," of
5600 to 7000 tonsi 8000 to 18000 horse power, whioh are
axnonfiret the fastest and most Itiziirionsly fitted Tessels afloat.
BI-WBEELT SERYIGE MAT TO OCTOBEB.
BREMEN AND NEW YORK,
GaUing at SOUTHAMPTON for Passengem and Mails. From
Bremen Tneedays and Saturdays; from Southampton Wednesdays
and Sundays; from New York every Tuesday and Saturday.
Faxes to New Yoek fbok
Bremen« Soathampton, Havre, Parie,
let Claw: 300 to 525 Mks. 285 to 495 Mks. 300 to 510 MkB. 816 to 626 Mks.
2nd „ 200 to 300 « 200 to 270 „ 200 to 286 „ 206 to 300 „
Fakes vkok New Yoek to
Bremen, Sonthampton, London* or Hayre. | jSd*" * 60 to mI
The above-namfid prices are determined by the season of the year and the position
of state-room.
This Company has regular Mail and Passenger Steamers between
Bremen and the following ports: Baltimobs (direct), weekly; Bahia,
Bio de Janeiro, and Santos, vid Antwerp and Lisbon, twice a month ;
Monte Video and Buenos Ayres, twice a month.
ALSO MONTHLY MAIL AND PASSENGER SSBVICES TO
EASTERN ASIA
(CHINA AND JAPAN),
AKD
AUSTRALIAN PORTS.
Full particulars on application to the Company in Bremen or to the
undermentioned Agents.
AGENTS m LONDON:
JLELLESLf WALLIS, & CO., 82, Cookspur Street, Charing Cross;
60, 66, & 67, Graoeohuroh Street, B.C.
Phillipps and Graves, Botolph^onse, Eastcheap, E.C.
Agents in Southampton Kelleb» Wallib, and Co.
„ Paris and Havre Kakb and Go.
„ New York Oslrichs and Co., No. 2 Bowling Green.
„ Baltimore A. Schuxaoheb and Co.
„ Antwerp H. Alkut de Bakt Co.
MiniRArS HAHBBOOK ADVKKTIBB. Hiy,
T— *■
GLASGOW a^d BBISTOL CHANNEL
WILLIAM SLOAN * 00,% Fint CUm P«Meiiger Steamen, lutvliig all Utest impiov*.
ments, will Sail as under (calling at Greenock* Prlnee'k Pler)^
OVigow to Biiatol viA Belfait efwvrr Monday and Tbonday at 2 p.m.
Glaagow to Oardiff and Swansea viftBeliiaat every Fildi^ «t S pjK.
Glasgow to Newport «id BelCut every alternate Friday at 2 p.m.
Briatol to Glasgow vid BeUiut every Monday and Thoraday evening.
Cardiff to Glasgow vid Swansea every Monday p.m. tide.
~ ^edDBBday
Swansea to Glasgow «id BeMut eveiy Wednesday evening.
Newport to Glaagoir m& SwaiMe* and Belfast eveiy alternate Toesdaj p jb. tide.
These Steamers kavs very soperior aceosiimedation fer PasBeoflers, oany Stewardeaaes,
and aSord a &voi)ralile vfpoilnaitj for making Excarsions firom West of Kngland to
Ireland and Scotland.
Varei^Glat^fOW: Cabin, Ms. Steerage, Its. 6d.
„ U\b^: » 171.64. „ VM
Beliuns issaed at Far^amMUlA asrailalAa for Two Months and eaa be asad to xetnm
from any of the ports.
GUxmlar Toqrs eaa. be mada vid Landon and East Oeaat in eoniKetion with Carron Oi>.'8
Steamers to Oraugemonth ; London and Edinburgh Shipping Oo.^ Steamers to Leith ; and
General Steam Navigation Cb.'s Steamers to Granton. Cabin Fare, 86s. Also per Dniidee,
Perth and London Shipping Co.'s Steamers from London to Dondea. Cabin Fai«k 87s. 6d.
And per Aberdeen Steam Navigation Co.'s Steamers from London to Aberdeen. Cahla
Fare, £2 68. These Fares are ezclnslve of all Railway Fares for Ball patta of the
Jonmey. j,jg^ MOUTB MAT BB BBVBBaBJD,
Guide Books and frurther Particnlani on application to—
WILLIAM eUEiOAN St CO., 8, Gordon Street, QlaMgow,
II
ZEELAHD" STEAISIIP GOIPIIIT
Royal Dutch Mail.
Quiokest, safest, and most comfortable Route
between ENGLAND and the CONTINENT
vid LONDON, QUEENBORO', FLUSHING (^<>;;an<2).
1892« MURRAT'S HANDBOOK ADVSRTISSR. ft
\!^ EXPRESS SERVICE. ffff^
The tmdemoted magnffloent Steamen, tmoBK ttM liuAeBt afloat* wHk viisarpaaaed Paaaeoger
aooommodaiion, and fitted throughout with the Electric Light, are appointed to sail
regularlj between
SOUTHAMPTON AND NEW YORK
AmUBWtk YIOTOBIA (twia icnw) - - 8,000 Uau 12^00 iLp.
COLirXBIA „ - - 8,000 „ 12,600 „
KOBMAimA „ • 9,000 „ 18)600 ,,
TttBST BISMABCX „ - - 9,000 „ 18,600 „
Passengers are conveyed firan London (Waterloo Station) 1^ epedal train on day of
aaiUog at reduced Ikree to Southampton, where arrangementa are nade for their immediate
embarkation with oomfort and deapatch. The spedal train runs alongaide the tender in
Southampton Dooka, and paawngera and their luggage are traoafened free of charge.
Although all caJlritu art fitUSi for four paigtng$n, onlytioo areptaoA Ikervtn BluFiH i nwy
rates.
These Steawer* le»Te Seuthamjitaa e^erj ThursdAT,
tAkimir PiAssenipers for Hamburi^,
For Farea from Soutbampton and for detailed informatioD, apply to
fiSMi«r£i, suNiinjs a oo., Maqbnts,
22, Ck)CK8Fim St., Chabino Cboss, S.Tr., aitd 158, Liaobrrau. St., E.G., LOHDON ;
4, Obibhtal PLAcn, SOUTHAMFrON ; 11, MnxBAT BoAis PLYMOPTH.
ALGIERS.
Um HOTEL OE L'OiSIS,
Bouleirard de la R^publique, Algiers.
The Largest Hotel in AlgiM<8 and best sitoatecL
Finest Sea Yiews and of the Sabylie Monntains.
ADJOmma THE HOTEL DE L'OASIS.
LONDON HOUSE.
Covered Teirraee. Sl^re de MaxevIUe.
Grand Restanrant k la Carie In Kn^^llsli JPanhlen. '
^^b^^ta.^
BBNBST DEUtlEXT, Proprietor.
*«■»
i HtTbRArS HANbBOOK ADVEttttSEtL Ib^,
ALGIERS. MU8TAPHA • SUPERIOR.
Hotel d'Orient and Hotel ContlnentaL
FIR8T-CLA88 HOUSES, FULL SOUTH, SITUATED IN A LARGE GARDEN.
OMNIBUS IN ATTENDANCE AT THE ARRIVAL OF STEAMERS.
LAWN TENNIS. TELEPHONE TO ALGIERS.
J. HTTiD'RNBH. A ND, Proprietor.
AMIENS.
HOTEL DE FRANCE, D'ANGLETERRE, AND DE UEDROPE.
BRIJL^, Proprietor.
FIBST-CLA8S HOTBL, elowtothe Gathedr*!, the Moaeiim, and other Public BoUdiogs.
Ehvtng been reeently newly ftamlehed* H offers great comfort. F«miliee and Single
Gentlemea aoeommodated with ooaventent Soites of Apartments and Single Booms.
Omnibus at th» Btatlon. gngUah gpolcen.
AMIENS.
GRAND HOTEL DE L'UNIVERS.
FIBST-CLASS HOTEL, reoeatly enlarged, facing ST. DENIS" SQUABE^ near the
Bailwaj Station, three Minutes* walk to the Cathedral. Drawinfp and fiath
Booms. Sni^ish Interpreter. Telephone.
jhnnibns of the Hotel at every Train.
ANTWERP.
HOTEL ST. ANTOINE.
PLAGE VXRTE, OPPOSITX THB CATHEDRAL.
THIS excellent First-Class Hotel, whieh enjoys the well-
merited favoja of Families and Tourists, has been Newlj Furnished
and Decorated. Great Comfort, Superior Apartments, and Moderate
Charges. Elegant Sitting, Beading and Smoking Booms; fine SaOe a
Manger^ excellent Table aHote and choice Wines.
Bnglislii Amerieaiii and Frenoh Papers.
BATHS IN THE HOTEL.
ARCACHON, Near Bordeaux.
ROYAIL HOTEL,
WBBBEB, Proprietaire.
This Hotel is tiiaated in the best part of the Forest, near tiie Casino,
and promenade des Anglais.
GOOD SOUTH BOOMS. EXCELLEKT CUISINE.
Billiard Room. Lawn Tennis Court.
TEBMS:--8«., 10«., or 12«. per day, aoooidiDg to arrangement.
SPBOIAIi 0ONDZT2ONB FOB FAMIIaZ&S.
892.
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
ANTWERP.
HOTEL DE LA PAIX.
One of the Lariest in the Town,
CENTRAl SITUATION.
Comfortable, fc Moderate Charges.
ED. OOLLIN, Proprl9tor.
ANTWERP.
Xnrray'i Eandbook for Belgium
and Eollaiid.
Tioenty-Jint JUUHon, With Maps and
Flafu. Past 8w« 6t,
John Hubbat, Albemarle Street.
AVRANCHE8.
GRAND HOTEL DE FRANCE.
"Xhe most frequented and the most Comfortable. Good Cooking. Re-
nowned Cellar. Comfortable apartments for feonilies. Splendid Sculptures,
Ijouis XYI. Carriages for Mount St. MichaeL Cook's Tourists' HoteL
angina pnraAir, Proprtetor.
AVRAN0HE8.
GRAND HOTEL DE L0NDRE8.
MoKEL, new Proprietor. First Class
House. Near Post and Telegraph. Apart-
ments and Rooms for Families. Smoking
Room. Large Garden. Moderate Prices.
Omnibus to all Uie trains.
AVRANCHES.
0RAin> HOTEL FAVGLXTEBBE.
Beoently recoastreoM and newly foraiahed
thronghoat with Urge addltlona, and erery poasible
Comfort. Celabntod Cellar. Ingltoh Papers.
Moderate Prices. Omnibofl at Station. Carriages
for Mount St. Mlohel and Kxctursions.
A. HOOLLKOATTK, Proprit^tor.
BADEN-BADEN.
Propiigtar, Xr. ISAITZ eBOSEOLZ.
THIS is one of the fineet-built and best-fumished First-
Class Hotels, main front with Morning Sun, situated in the new
Promenade nearest the Kursaal and the famous Frederic Baths; it
commands the most charming views, and is reputed to be one of the best
Hotels in Germany. Principally frequented oy Bnglish and American
Travellers. Highly recommended in every respect, very moderate char:^s.
Table d'Hdte at 1 and 6 o'clock. English and other Journals. Beautiful
airy Dining-Booms, Ladies' Brawing-Koom, Beading and Smoking-Booms.
Pension in the early and latter part of the season.
Hydraulie Lift, BcUh Booms, Sanitary Arrangement$ perfect,
BAiSHT^BSUEFT
HOTEL d'^IVOIl^ErrEIMCS:.
New Proprietor, P. RIOTTX, formerly of the Hotel Bellevne.
LABGE FIRST-CLASS HOTEL of old repntation. Patronised by the higliest fSitmilies.
Beautifully situated in the best part of the place, near the Promenade, the Conyersa-
tion House, and at the entrance of the Lichtenthal ** All^" Newly renovated with all
comfort. New management. Baths. Lift. Garden. Arrangements made. Open all
the year. Highlt Bboommbhpbd.
BADEN-BADEN.
HOTEL DE LA COUR DE BADE-BADI8GHER HOF.
{JVpt to be confounded wWt the Hotel de la ViUe de Bade, opposite the Railtuay Station.)
A FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, of old reputation, open all the year. Sztensive Park and
Gardens. Lawn Tennis Courts. Mineral Baths and ** Drink-fontatii " firom the Hot
Spring. Splendid situatton at the entrance of the Promenade, near the Conversation House
and'ttinknalto.
Tablfi d'iidfeeat 1 and ft o'clock.
itay.
Arrangements ma de fa r a prolongid
A. HIPPMAmff, Manager.
BADEN-BADBN.
HOTEL DE L' EUROPE.
iOTTO KAH, Proprietor,
rii
HTff%
6
MURKAY*S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
May,
BADEN-BADEN.
Ffnk-daM BsUbltabmeiii, cloie to :i1ie COK-
VERSATION HOUSK and XKW VAPOUR
BATHS. Now rarroanded by ITS
OWN BEAUTIFUL
PARK.
^OPUN
ATiTi THX YSAR.
ChMf^et Hrictfy moderate,
SpecUlarraDgemtotoforaprDlongodttay. Pension
HYDRAULIC LIFT IN BOTH HOUSES.
A. ROSSLER, i'wtprictor.
BARCELONA, SPAIN.
GRAND CONTINENTAL HOTEL.
FIRST CLASS. Newly opened. Finest Situation, centre of City» facing Rambla and
Plats Catalnti*. Lift. Electric Ligbt. Bath. Ladies' Parlonr. Piano. Foreign
Faperi and MagazinM. Latoat Sanitary ImproTexneuta. Special Omnibus at all Trains.
CHAROEa MODERATE, FBAW CISCO SOUBB» Propartotw,
BASLE.
THREE KING'S HOTEL.
LABGEST First-clAfis Family Q«teL ia BMk» ia a quiet, iiMiUfay, and
magnificeut situation on the fiiver BMqo, and in the centre of the
town. Hydraulic Lifts. OnmibuB in attendaAce at the Gennan and
Swiss Bailway Station. Pzoprietoar, c. fluok.
BASLE. '
HOTEL KRAFFT, ON THE RHINE.
EXCELLENT, Oomfortable, and Glean, beautifully situated on the
banks of the Bhine. Booms from fros. 2. 50. Breakfeuat, Tea, frcs.
1. 25, Dinner, fros. 3 and 4. Batha in the Hotel. Pension.
BASLE.
HOTEL SCHRIEDER.ZUM
DEUTSCHEN HOR
OPPOSITE the Baden Railway Station.
Oomlortable aooomuodation. Moderate
Charges.
X. XBKB, Proprietor.
B^LE.
HOTEL EULEB.
FIE8T CLASS HOTEL.
Opposite the Central Station.
BASLE.
HOTEL SCHWEIZERHOF
JIBST..CLASS HOTfiL.
Opposite the Swiss Central Railway
Station.
L. E. HERIAK.
BAD-CREUZNACH.
HOTEIi ORAIOE^HOF.
LABGEST Fint^Uua House. Fineai
rituatfon In own grounds. Visited by
tbe Crown Princess of Germany. The
Oranlenspring, strongest mineral spring at
Creuznacn, belongs to Hotel. Lift.
g. p. ALTBIT, Propristgr.
BAD-CREUZNACH.
HOTEL DE L'EUROPE.
PIMI?-CLRLSa TitnJIy IMisR BecoMKndeMto its IhvouittM rtlMtioit andflbeltered
ipirden. £legant fiatbs. J&ioderate cbarget.
Ii. AN^HEISSKB, Proprietor.
^
1892- MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 9
L.A BOURBOULE-LES-BAINS (France).
HOT£I< DE8 IliES BBITAXTKIQUISa
J. J[X)HN£AUD, Proprietor.
First-Clots MstdUMiment Near (he Baihi* Best Sanitary Arrangements.
Tlie only Botel'wltb a Iilft.
ACH. BSNARD, OF « BELLE VUE." MENTONB. JfanoflPer.
BAYEUX.
HOTEL DU LUXEMBOURG.
REPUTED the best. Situated in the centre of the town, close to the Cathedral and
public buildings. Breakfast, 2 fr. 50 c. ; Dinner, 8 fr. Booms from 2 fr. Table d'Hdte.
Restaurant k la Carte. Garden. Billiard-room. Recreattoo Ground. Carriages for
Excursions. ENGLISH SPOKBN.
BELFAST. ""
THE IMPERIAL HOTEL.
Ju$t Be-decorated and Mrdarffed, Finh-Glass, Best gituaUon.
Omnibuses meet all Trains and Steamers.
W. J. JURY, Proprietor.
BERLIN.
GRAND HOTEL DE ROME,
UNTEB DEN LINDEN, 39, opposite the Boyal Palace.
This old, reputed, first-class Hotel has the best situation in
the Town, close to all the principal sights and Boyal
Theatres. Lately re-furnished throughout.
Splendid HESTAUKAKT, looking out over the "Ijinden.''
"CAFE/' DBAWING-ROOI FOR LADIES. BATHS LIFT.
TABLE d'HdTE. ELECTRIC LIGHT.
NewtpaperB in aU Languages, Omnibus at Stations. Moderate Charges,
Proprietor : ADOLF MUHLING,
Purveyor to ^ Imperial Court.
BILBAO.
GRAND HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE.
BEST SITUATED FIBST-GLASS HOTEL. --Near the Station
and Theatre. Qoee tothe Post and Telegnmh Offices, on Promenade. Interweter.
Omnihos at the SuUoo. X^. VLOVTBT.
10
MURRAT'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISE^
May,
BIARRITZ.
GBAITDE PLAGE.
THIS new Hotel ia built with all the latest improvements of oomfort.
Near the British GlalH In the centre of «U the best Promenades. 120 Booms and
Saloons. Fadng the Sea, and full South. Benowned Cuieine. Moderate Charges.
J. POUByEAXJ {BOtel de Prance same Proprietor).
BIDEFORD.
Central for tbo whole of North Devoxu Westward Ho, CloveUy, Hartland, Bade,
IlflraoomDOi and Lynton.
s^^JJh'^^'S.I ROYAL HOTEL.
entrance. i HIGH CLASa
Superbly ftmiahed sad lofty rooms. Ventilatioii and Sanitary arrangemflatapezflBat. Oontiiieatal
Gonrtyard. Fineit Stabling and Coach-bouse in Devonshiie. Delightftil Winter Besort.
A portion of the house boilt In 1688 by an old merchant prince retains its macnifloent oak staircase and
>nlte of rooms, in one of which Charles Kingaiey wrote a portion of " Wes t w a rd Ho."
GRAND HOTEL DE BLOIS.
Overlooking the River
Torridge and Old Bridge.
Highly recommended to Strangers.
VERY COMFORTABLE TABLE D'H6tE AND PRIVATE DINNERS.
Apartments for Families, Close to the CastU of Blois.
Comfortable Carriages for Yisiting Chambord and the Environs.
BATHS IN THE HOTEL.
OMNIBUS AT THE STATION. ENGLISH SPOKEN.
BOTZEN.
HOTEL VICTORIA.
iOPFOSITE TEE HTATION.)
SITUATED full south, commanding the finest
Tiew of the Dolomites. Newly fitted up Galo-
riArei Arraagements made for families. Baths.
WaSlTHEB & OESTEBLE, Proprietwt.
BOULOGNE-8UR-MER.
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK FOR FRANCE,
Pabt I.
A New Edition, with a description of the
Harbonr and a new Plan. Post Sro., It. 6<l.
JOHN MUBBAT, Albbilasu Stbbbt.
BOULOQNE-SUR-MER.
BE».ItY'S (late JEtOBEJEtT'S)
English and Frenoh Boarding Xstablishment and Family Hotel,
96, 98, 100, <ft 102, RUE DE BOSTON,
OPP08ITK the Ossino Bathing Establishment, near the Steam Paiokeis and Bailway Station, and hsiTfiig
a splendid Sea View fhnn the eztensiye Qardens of the HoteL Terms moderate, and special arzange-
ments for the Winter Season, by day, week, or month. Single Boarders receiTod. Bstabliahed fiO yeMS.
BOULOGNE-SUR-MER.
HOTEL DES BAINS.
Mr. Ik WAJiIiET, Proprietor.
FIBST CLASS HOTBL. situated on the Port facing the Bailway Station and Steamers.
Near the Post Office and Casino. Hot and Cold Sea Baths in the Hoose. Ad-
vantageous arrangements made for a long stay.
B0UL0GNE-8UR-MER.
HOTEL DERVAUX,
73 to 80, GRANDE RUE ; and 24, RUE DES VIEILLARDS.
THE most healthy part of Boulogne, near the Post OfBoe, English Church, Theatre, and
Karket. The Hotel is now carried on by Mr. Alfhonsb I>KByAinc, son of the founder.
Arrangements by the day, week, or monto. Beduced prices during the winter months.
189S.
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER
11
BOULOGNE - SUR - MER.
GRAND HOTEL CHRISTOL & BRISTOL
Best Situdtion in the Town. Highly recommended
for Families and Gentlemen.
Carriage in Attendance on Arrival of all Trains and Boats.
SAGNIER and F, CHBISTOL, Proprietors.
BOULOQNE-SUR-MER.
BRIGHTON AND MARINE HOTEL
JACQUES LECERF, Proprietor.
A large flrst-olMs HoteU best situation in the Town, facing the Sea and the '* Etablisse-
ment dee Bains/' the Garden of which is separated firom the Hotel by the road only.
Visiton to this Hotel hsrve the adyantage of hearing, firom their own rooms* the Military
Band which plays in the Garden. The Hotel has been newly furnished.
BOULOQNE-SUR-MER. .
HOTEL DU PAYILLON IMPERIAL
First Class Hotel, The only one facing the Sea.
ELECTRIC L.IQHT, ELECTRIC LIFT.
VBBMEB8CH, Proprietor*
BOULOGNE-SUR-MER.
HOTEL FOLKESTONE (English),
ADMIRABLY iitnaied opposite the Casino and close to the Sands. Large and small
apaortments. Special terms for fsmilies and parties. TaUc d'MU and Restaurant
h la carte. First-class Gnislne and Wines. COOK'S COUPONS ACCEPTED. Arrange-
ments by the day, week, ar month.
W. PSPPJSBSXVB, Proprietor.
BOURNEMOUTH.
LANSDOWHE HOTEL.
Near celebrated Pines, Sea, and principal
Railway Station. Home comfbrts. BlUianis,
PoeUng. Tariff strictly moderate.
J. W. COLLINS, Proprietor.
UITBBAT'S
Handbook of Travel Talk,
ENG^LISH, FAENCa, GEBHAN,
AND ITALIAH.
16mo. 3«. 6(i.
JoRH MoBBAY, Albemarle Street.
BRUNSWICK.
HOTEL IMCONOI^OL-
Opened since Ist of Augiuit* 1890.
FIBST-CLASS HOTEL opposite the Bailway Station. Newly built
and elegantly fitted np. Booms, Including lighting and attendance,
from 2 Mka., np to the most elegant family apartments. Baths in the
Hoofle. Table d'Hdte at 1.15. Bestauxant, Cafe, Wine-Boom. Telephone.
On Parle Francais. English Spoken.
a HOFFMANN, Proprietor.
12
MURRATS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
May,
BRUNSWICK.
HOTEL DEUTSCHES HAUS.
(HOTEL, GEBMASr HOTTSK)
FIM8T-OLA88 HOTSL, GOOD ATTENDANCE, OOMFOBTABLE.
ENGLISH SPOKEN.
W. WMOHE. BOBMtt gPHIUWEB'S SIFCCESSOB.
BRUSSELS.
HOTEL MENGELLE
HydravAio lAfL (BITE ROT ALE). BydrauUe lAfU
B. MENGELLE, Propriitor.
THIS large and beaatiful First-Glass Hotel is situated in the finest and
^ moet healthy part of the Town, near to the Promenades the moat freaaented, and. Is
supplied with erery modem aooommodatioD and oomfort. Rooms from 3 francs. Break-
fast, ftcs. 1.60. Lancheon, franoe 8 and 4. Table d'hote Dinner, francs tf. Fnll Board,
with Lodging, Light, and Attendance, in Snmmer fkom 13 francs, in Winter from 11 franoa.
Restaurant & la carte, and at ilxed prices, at any hour. Excellent Cnialne and Gholoe Wines.
Thit LargiMt amd fintat Dintng^Rocm in the Town,
Baths, Smokinff Boom, Beadinff Boom, BlUlard Boom.
BRUSSELS. """
HOTEL DB STJ3^DB.
FIB8T 0LAS8,
GENTBAL PABT OF THE TOWN.
GOOD CUISINE. CHOICE WINES.
VAN CUTSEU.
B&TJS8SL8.
HOTEL DE LA FOSTBS,
SS, Wm 1*088B AVZ I.OVF8,
near the Plaoe de la Xoanaie*
FAMILY HOTEL specially recommended.
Omnibus. Telephone. Ladies' and
EtenoUng Rooms. English spoken.
HyacJnthe-Tihnans, Proprigtar.
BBTJSSBIiS.
GRAND HOTEL, GERNAY.
Close to the RaUway Station for Ostend,
Qermany, Holland, Antwerp and Spa, form-
ing the Corner of the Boulevaids Botanique
et du Nord. Moderate chaiges. Bftths in
the Hotel. Tetepbone.
BUXTON, DERBYSHIRE.
BUXTON HYDROPATHIC.
i^W^^tf^P^>^>^^J»^»^^i^^^^^^^^^^^^^
THIS Estahlishment, tomerly known as Malyem Honse, is the largest
and most complete Hydro in the neighbourhood. Central and (Weltered situation.
Close to Mineral Wells and fiiUhs. Sanitary, TentiUting, and heating arrangements on
the moet approved principles.
New and el^ant Suite of Drawing-Rooms, superb Ballroom, well-appointed BUliard-
Boom (Two Tables). Passenger Lift.
Every descrtptlon of Hydropatblc Baths, also Rooms specially fitted fcr tke Massige
Treatment. Experienced Massears and Masseuses. Telegraphic Address—** Oon^fbrkme,
Buxton,"
CANNES.
Recently enlarged and improved, with IjXVt! on the newest principle. Situated in a
garden, wlthhi 2 minutes of St. Paul's Church.
Lawn Tennis. Sanitary- Arransementa perfeot.
CH. STAEHLB, Proprietor,
(Also Proprietor of the THuyBBHOF, Thuk, Swttzkblakp.)
J
1892. MOSRAT^ HANGBOOE ADVEItTISKK. IS
CAEN.
HOTEL «K D'ANGLETERRE,
Rue St. Jean, Nos. 77, 79, 81.
SitTiated in the Centie of the Town. Bendezvons of the
best Sodely.
100 ElegmUlf Fvmiiiked aad Oomfortdble Bed Bootu emd
Sitting Soonu.
BREAKFASTS A LA CARTE.
TABLE D'HOTE BREAKFASTS AT 8 FBAETOS.
BIHHIEE AT TABLE B'E(5t1&« 41 FMMCS.
SUITES OF APARTMKNTS FOR FAMIUUES.
ENGLI SH AND SPANISH S POKEN.
L. MANOXL, Proprietor.
CAIRO (Egypt).
hoteiTdu ne.
H. FRIEDMANN.
CAIRO, EGYPT.
HOTEL CONTINENTAL.
THIS First Glass Hotel, newly built and handsomely furnished, is
situated in the finest and healthiest part of the Ifmallieh quarter,
dose to the English find Catholic churches. Perfect English sanitary
arran^ments. Large verandah, Drawing and Ladies' Saloons, Beading,
Smoking and Billiard Booms. Terms moderate. Best cooking in Cairo.
Honoured by a prolonged stay by H.B.H. the Duke of Cambridge and
H.I.H. Princess Victoria of Prussia.
NO COUPONS OF TOURIST AGENCIES ACCEPTED.
HURRAT^ HAHSBOOE ADTEBTISEB.
1892. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 15
CAIRO.
MB.A.STOBODA,AgastofgieRpyal PHOTOGRAPHIE NOUVELLE RICHARD & CO.
Ac^^j^j^^v^i^ portjjgj^re L^d- Likenesies taken in every branch.
A «rie.ofOilPainting.«e<«tedbyMr.5^^^^ S^ST^ioSST^^d^ ^fSl!?.- ij^^t
dmrins hia travris In India and Ada Minor ar e bm and all photographic materials. Lenonsglvea.
exhibited at hit reddenoe. Views of Egypt, Asia Minor and India.
No. lO, SBARBB 8AB-BI. BADID.
CANNES.
HOTEL BEAU SITE
AKD
HOTEL DE L-ESTEEEL.
BOTH dtoated at tiie West End of Cannes^ in ihe midst
of a most splendid Garden, and adjoining Lord Brougham's
property ; the healthiest part of the Town.
300 Rooms and Private Sitting Rooms.
Enlarged Drawing Boom, serrate Beading Boom, Smohing
and Billiard Boom, with Thurston's Tables,
BATH BOOH. LIFT WITH SAPETT APFABATUS.
THREE LAWN TENNIS COURTS,
CONSIDERED THE FINEST AND LARGEST IN EUROPE.
GEORGES G0T7G0LTZ, Proprietor.
CANNES.
WINDSOR HOTEL
This First Class Family H6tel is beautifiilly situated, not too far from the Town and
Sea, of which, however, it ei^oys an extensive view.
BATHS, SMOKINe AND BILilARD ROOMS. LARGE AND SHELTERED GARDEN.
XLBCTRIG LIOBT. TELEPHONE, LIFT.
SAKITAB7 ABRAKGEMENTS PERFECT.
Comfortable Apaitments and careful Attendance at moderate pricea
£B. SCHMID, Proprietor.
CANNES. "
HOTEL ItlCHEMiOTSrT.
WELL SITUATED INLAND NEAR ST. PAULS CHURCH.
lUKEKSE GABBEN. Lawn Tennis Ground. Gymnasium, &o.
Arrangements from 8 to 15 francs en Pension, according to Apartmements.
SANITARY ABRANaSMXNTS by Messn. BEST ft SON, LONDON.
ZUST LATJBEHTt Proprietor. In Summer, Grand Hotel at Honlgate, near Tronvllle .
IS HORRArS HAMISOOK ADnBTI^R. Maf.
CANNES. ~~
HOTEL- I>TJ LOTJ"Vn,E2.
attutcd In tbs men caDtnl n
KXgTAURAXT, E
Sknltarr Airaiiffeiiiaiita Ferfsot.
Btaneli Hone HdHI ud Pwilgil Btu'wte.'intBLium^
j Hotel Grande Bretagne,
I (FIBST CKA88).
f SftTAtfd iltatflmi, blgb^ rflOHiuuvidad.
' THE FURTtlEITAVHr FROM THE SEA.
I BPLE>Dn> TIEW.
I TSXNTS. TEEBPHOJTB.
t IVum-Omneu, Or&u OwtJ''"^'. ^ti,
S lASVnt d'BmiB.
9 Sanitary ArranBeniariU Perfact.
PERBEARD, Proprietor.
ANGER'S HOTEL (Bbmch, rhein hoiel).
rESE Two First-Olaw Hotels offer special oomfort to
Euglisb and AmerioaD Travellers, who will find them
most deeirahle residences.
Charges Moderate; deservedly recommended.
kngliah and american newbpapeh8.
Baths, cabbiaqes, omnibus, htdrauijc lift, electeic light.
JIfr. and Mrt. Anger tpeak English.
CARLSBAD.
HOTEL GOLDENEB SCHILD.
WITH DEPBNDANCE (TWO GBEMAN M0NAECH8).
THIB HOTEL has European nslebritj, U very beantifiiUr situated,
witli large Oandeti, and it newly fUmiihed mid deoorated. TnTel-
lerB will And liera every oomfort at moderala prieti. EDglish, Slvnoh,
and Oenuan Nawqiapen. Open all the year. Engliah Berranta.
F. BOSCHBB, Hotelier.
CAUTERETS (Htes. Pyrendea).
HOTEL r>'AP^GH-.ETERR.E.
ftoo aooKs.
A. MEILLOW.
1892.
MURBArS HANDBOOK ADY&RTISER.
17
CARLSBAD.
HOTEL BRISTOL.
nVTEWLY built, provided with every comfort, and Burronnded by own
XN Garden ; situate in the very best location, opposite the English
Church, and commanding a view on the town and the distant monntoins.
Dining-rooms with Verandah, Beading, Smoking, and Conversation
Hooms. Lift. Lawn Tennis Ground. Contains in connection with the,
since many years, renowned Houses, *' Villa Victoria '* and ** Konig von
JEngland" 180 Booms and Saloons.
MODERATE PBIOBS. OMNIBUS AT THE STATION.
BMIIi TKTiTiER, Proprietor.
CHAMONIX.
GBAND HOTEL SOTAL ET DE SAUSSUBE
PENSION PALAIS DB CHAISTAL (DEPENDANCE).
ErRST.CLASS Family Hotel, with a Large Splendid Park and Garden. Facing the
celebrated Montunent de Sauasnre. In foil view of Mont Blanc. Every Modem
Oomfiort. Baths. Patronised and recommended by EngUsh gentry for its cleanliness and
excellent cooking. Pension from 9 francs.
E. EXNEB, Proprietor.
CHAMONIX.
HOTEL PENSION BEAU SITE.
Facing Mont Blane,
STLVAIK OOITTTET, Proprietor.
Formerly Guide, having ascended Moni
Blanc 34 times. English spoken.
CHAMONIX.
For an Account of CHAMONIX and
MONT BLANC, see
MXJBBA'SrS HANDBOOK FOB
SWITZEBLANB.
Ifow pviblished in Two Parts, Post Bvo, 10».
JOHN MURRAY, Albbxaslb Strbxt.
CHRISTIANIA.
DAVID ANDERSEN,
Jewellett
Pvizids
Gad
X2.
MANUFAOTUREE of the noted Norwegian Spoons and Jewellery in
Filigree, Transparent and Opaque Enamel, or Norwegian Spoons
painted in Enamel.
LARGEST STOCK IN NORWAY, AND LOWEST PRICES.
CHRISTIANIA.
-Mc
3|6^^
Jewellers,
Next door to the Grand HoteL
LARGE STOCK OF NATIONAL ORNAMENTS, SPOONS,
TRANSPARENT AND OPAQUE ENAMEL
ANTIQUITIES IS SILVEB.
18
MURRArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
May,
CHESTER.
F^;S'^;„i**^**^.^*" ^^ J^^ *>' ^^ «*y' «!«» *» «»« Gathkdk^ and other
TK u^T'fJ* ^ «n*«re»t. Open and dose Carriages, and Ikwtimr in aU ita BnmrhpT
?JS^i/il?'?^ and Qnmibnaee for the nee oTJlSSrs to tSESLTalLd t£^S*
Tariff to be bad on appUcation. A Night Porter in attendance.
DAVID FOSTEB, Manager.
COBLENT2.
GRAND HOTEL DE BELLE VUE,
FIRST-CLASS. Commanding a splen-
did view of the Bhine and the
Fortress of Ehrenbreitstein.
Moderate Ohaxgem.
COBLENTZ. .
QIANT HOTEL— HOTEIi
THE best ritnated FixBt^UuB Hotel, just (»pogU«
the landing-place of the Steamboate and
Fortress Bhrenbreitstein. Excellent Cuisine and
Cellar. Moderate Cluuges. Reduction for a lonx
residence. ^
Ch. H. EISEKMAKK, Proprietor.
OLOG N E^^;
NearCathedral&CentralStation. y^Xj
LIFT.
ELECTRIC LIGHT.
Enilish Church.
Post and
Telegraph Office,
Railway Booking
Office, and Luggage
registered in the HoteL
OMNIBUS AT EVERY TMIN.
Managers :
T. FRIEDRICH,
P. URBAN.
Electrio
Light.
COLOGNE.
HOTEL CONTINENTAL
Hydraollo
Baths in the Hotel.
N ?C«?2?S'ii*° ^c?^* and Saloons, facing the South Portal of .the Cathedral, the
Rhin«s/lVi?3^*^^ **t^*^* *H^ New Bridge, and near the landing Place ot the
Khine Steamers. Excellent Meals. Moderate Terms. Warmed by SteamT
- FRITZ OBBRMKIT, Proprietor.
COLOGNE.
^ HOTEL DU d6mE.
Th. Mxtb ERBJDr.<~This old and excellent House
"■ ^i^^S?^ ^ ■** eleSMit New Building, and
pOMforUhly fltted-up ; it is adrantageoualy situated
!? %J2??^**f, *** ^*y' a«" ti»e Cathedral and
the Central BaUway Station. TaUe d'Hftte 1 and
5 odook. Splendid Dininff-Boom. ladies' Saloon.
Bmoklng^Booin, he ^g**""— ^w d<wl to »»'»n«»«
JPpuristfc Moderate ChiSSr^^^ ««««
COLOGNE.
HOTEL DE MATEirCE.
l^XGELLENT HOrEL, near BaUway Btotion and
•*-* Cathedral, opposite the Theatre and Oeneral
Post Office. Centrally situated for all the 8i«rht8.
Comfort and Economy. Bedroom from ^ up-
wards. Pension including Table d'H6te Dinner
from 78. 6d. and upwards per day. Hotel Onmibua
meets Tralna and Steamers.
J. H. PETEB8, Proprietor.
S92.
MURRArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
19
COLOGNE.
HOTEL DISCH.
'Firat-Ca»m Honm. Near Oaihedral and Central
Station. Greatly enlarged. Brery oomfort found.
2O0 Booma witb 800 beds. Omnlbntee meet erery
Train and Bteamer. Oholoa winee for wholeeale.
Hydranlio Lift. Baotrio Light. Oalorif^res In
wiuter. BaUway BooUBg Offloa J. 0HBI8T0PH.
CONSTANCE.
HOTEL & PENSION INSELHOTEL AM SEE.
'piIBST-GLASS HOnSB, oonelderably enlarged by
•*• new boildiDgs. Commanding a macnifloent
view on the lake of C!oa>taooe and the Alpe.
Beantifal Garden. Warm and cold bath* in the
Hotel, and batba in the laka
MAX OSOHWALD, Dirtetor.
CONSTANT! NOPLE-PERA.
#:^-H6TEL DB BYZANCE.
THE most agreeable habitation which. Constantinople can
offer to Foreigners. Universal Reputation. Splendid
View on the Bosphoms and the Golden Horn. Cold and
Warm Baths. Ladies' Drawing Boom. Beading and
Smoking Booms.
TAirinO «c ABQT BOFOTJLO, Proprietors.
COPENHAGEN.
HOTEL KONGEN of DENMARK.
THIS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, much frequented by the highest class
of English and American Travellers, affords first-rate accommodation
for Families and single Gentlemen. Splendid situation, close to the Royal
Palace, overlooking the King's Square. Excellent Table d'Hdte. Private
Dinners. Best attendance. Reading Room. Hot Baths. Lift.
English, French, German and American Newspapers.
ALL LANGUAGES SPOKEN. MODERATE CHARGES.
Ijadies' Drawing Boom. Vienna Coffee House.
CARRIAGES IN THE HOTEL.
ELECTRIC LIGHTING. R. KIiXJM, Proprietor.
CORFU
«RAliri» BOXBIi
D'AHfiLETEBRE & BELLE VEHI8E.
THE ONLY FIRST-CLASS HOTEL.
Correspondents of the Army and Navy Co-Operative Society ,
Limited, London,
CREUZNACH.
KURHAUS HOTEL.
Ordy one amidst the Kurpakt and connected with the Bath Establishment.
Moderate Charges.
ADOIiPHE DXtRINGEB.
c 2
20 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. - Mdy,
DEVIZES.
THE BEAR HOTEL
OLD ESTABLISHED FAMILY HOTEL.
Sitting Booms on gronnd floor, with
{^▼Ate««ntraiioe. Posting of eTerydeecrip-
tion. Telegrams ; **Bear, DevlMS."
DINAKT-SXTB-USTTSS.
HOTEL DE LA TETE D'OR.
ALBXia DISIBRS^ Prcprietor.
VIBST-GL ASS» npon the GRAI<n) PLACE.
^^^ -'■ Is to be recommended for its oomfint.
r« BBTirOLDS, Proprietor. \ Pension from 7 financs 60 centimes per day.
DIEPPE.
Facing the Beach, close to the Bathing EstMishment and the Parade.
TT IS THE MOST IMPORTANT ESTABLISHMENT AND ONE
-i- OF THE MOST PLEASANTLY SITDATED HOTELS IN DIEPPE, commanding
ft heautiful and extensive View of the Sea. Families and Oentlemen visiting Dieppe will
find at tUs Establialmient el^ant Large and Small Apartments, and the beet of accom-
modation, at very reasonable prices. Large Beading Boom, with French and English
Newspapers. The Befreshments, &c., are of the best quality. In fact, tills Hotel fallj-
bears out and deserves the favourable opinion expressed of it in Murray's and other
Guide Books.
LAR80NNEUX, Proprietor.
Table d'Bdte and Private Dinners, %• This Bot a U open aU the Tear.
DINARD (BRITTANY).
11 Hours from Southampton {via St Mafo),
The most Fashioiiable Sea-Bathing Besort in the 'West of
France in Summer.
Noted for its mild climate in Winter. Recommended to Golf, Tennis,
and Cricket Players.
For Houses & Particulars, free, apply to E. O'BOBKE, Banker, Dioard.
"~||^ DR ESDEN .
HOTEL "WEBEH.
MOST Beautiful and Central Situation. Directly opposite the
Picture Gallery, Museums, Boyal Opera House, General Post and
Telegraph Office. Lift, Beading Boom, Smoking Boom, and every comfort
Pension. Arrangements on very Moderate Terms.
DBESDEN.
HOTEL BELLE VUE.
PIBST-OLASS HOTEL.
160 COMFOBTABIiE BOOMa
HUGO WELZEB, Manager.
DRESDEN.
HOTEL DE ROME (STADT ROM).
ENTIRELY RENEWED. Proprieter, MAX OTTO.
IN nicest and most comfortable position of the town, nearest to all ol^Jects worth seeing.
Hotel of First order, with all comfort and moderate prices. Apartments lh>m 2 Marks ;
no charge for Light and Attendance. Beading Boom. Bath. liftvourable Arrangements
for longer stay.
1893.
MURRArS HANDBOOK ADYEBTISER.
21
DRESDEN.
MISS BEIUS First-Class Pension.
28, • littTTICHAUSTB,
Weil Located. Comfortable Apartments. Refined Society.
Good TabU. Moderate Charges. Bath in tJu House,
DRESDEN.!
HOTEL DE MOSGAU.
EvceUtiit HotdfoT IbmUiet,
MODERATE CHA&OBS. PENSION.
A. STOFFREQEN, Proprietor.
DRESDEN.
For a Full Aeconnt, with lUiutnlloiis, of the
OEBMAN, FtEMlBH and DUTOH SCHOOLS
OF PAINTINO. Me
KttaiiER'S HANDBOOK.
Ik Two Yoia 94s.
JOHN MUBBAT, Albemarle Street.
ENGELBERQ.
THE YALLET OF ENaSLBEBO (3200 ft. Ugh) near Lnoema.
Season 16th May— SOth September.
KURHAUS AND HOTEL SONNENBERG.
THE property of Mr. H. HUG. Summer stay imrivalled by its grand
Alpine Bomeiy, as well as bj the onratiye efficacy of the climate against long and chest
diseases, conghs^nervons ailments* &c,&e. COearbradiursir.eqiiableteinpeTatnre. Beoom-
mended by the highest medical antborities. The HOTEL SONNENBERG, in the finest
and healthiest sitnation facing the TitUs and the Glaciers, is one of the most comfortable
and best managed hotels in Switaerland. Lawn Tennis Ground. Excellent and central
place fbr sketdilng, botanising, and the most yaried and inteiesting ezcorslinis. The
ascent of the Tltlis is best made firom here. Shady Woods. Yaponr and Shower Baths.
Waterspring 6° B. ; 200 Booms; Pension flrom £2 6». a week npwards. Because of its so
sheltered sitaation specially adapted for a stay in May and June. Besident English
PhygJdan. English Divine Service.
ENGELBERG, SWITZERLAND.
KURHAUS HOTEL ET PENSION TITUS.
THIS First-Glass Hotel, in the best situation of the valley, in the middle
of an extensive garden, has been much enlarged and improved.
200 Beds. Lofty Dining Saloon. Large Saloon de B^union, with
Verandah. Smoking-Boom. Keading-Boom. Billiards, Salle de Muaique.
Lift lUectrio Lighting in all Booms. 9 Baths in the Hotel. Gtood
attendance, with Moderate Charges.
English Chapel in the garden of the Hotel.
Ed. CATTANI, Proprietor,
EXETER, DEVONSHIRE,
POPLE'S MW LONDON HOTEL
Leading Hotel for F am Hies and Qentiemen.
CENTBAL, adjoining Northemhay Park and near the Cathedral.
Large covered Continental Courtyard.
Table dHdte. Night Porter. Hotel Omnibuses and Cabs.
POSTING ESTABLISHMENT.
Also Proprietor of the Globe Hotel, Newton Ahbot, Devon,
man
'^SH^
22 MURRArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. Hit,
FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN. _
HI
. (ffotd where BISKARCK amd FA YBB tetOed the Treaty of Peace, 187 1 [^
n ri^BIS FIRST CLASS HOTEL, for Familia and Single Genttemeo. doBe torthe ^
^ X two Theatres and the principal Railway StationB, is one of the finest and best .^
•« sitnated Hotela In th« town. 150 Rooms and Saloons. Pension at Moderate o
H Prices. G, SIMSOK, Proprietor. a
FRANZEN8BAD.
HOTEL J^iyj^lEJEt.
Old Rbpdtatiox. CLoex io thk Baths ahd SpBiKas.
SPLENDID DINIKO BOOKS. EXCELLSNT KITCHEN.
Attentive Service. Eo^pish and French spoken.
M. ADIiJEB, Proprietor.
FREUDENSTADT. (2,600 feet above sea.)
BLACK FOREST HOTEL.
RAILWAT'LINE STUTTGART, OFFENBURQ, 8TRA8BURQ,
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL sitnated on a charming hill, and snrronnded by a vor
extensive and beantiftil Park. 60 very comfortable Bedrooms and Saloons, with
15 Balconies. Water and Milk cures. Electricity. Massage. Fine-needle txid
Sole Baths.
BEST CEKTBAL BESIDEITOE FOB EXOUBSIOKS.
Elegant Coaches and Landau Carriagee at the ffotel,
TROlfr FISHING, AND VERY GOOD SHOOTING.
IKoderate Charares. Pension.
ERNEST LUZ, Jumiob, Proprietor.
FREIBURG IN BADEN.
'^^' HOTEL de TEUROPE. 'i^o^""
NEW FIRST-CLASS HOTEL with every comfort. Beaniifntly sitnated in Ganien
and Park. Open and Covered Terraces serving as Restaurant. Bath on the Floor.
Newest and Perfect Sanitary Arrangements. Electric Ligtit, and Steam Heating.
Moderate Charges. Pension. Porter at the Station. Omnibus not necessaiy. Table
d'HQte at I and 6 o'clock.
GENEVA.
RICHMOND FAMILY HOTEL.
HEALTHIEST POSITION, FACING LAKE AND MONT BLANC,
PENSION TBBMS FBOM SEVEN TO TEN FBANCS PEE EAT.
LIFT, BATHS, &o. ELECTRIC LIGHT.
GENEVA.
GRAND HOTEL NATIONAL.
TRB LARGEST AND BEST,
200 Booms overlooking Lake and Mont Blanc.
UFT. GABDEBT. COJITCBR'n.
Dd. OOERQEB, Proprietor.
GENEVA.
GRAND HOTEL METROPOLE.
Ohlt First class Hotel opposite the Jabdin Akolais, and view of the Lake.
OPav JLImJb tbb tbas. azft. batb-sooms.
Jfoderate charges and t^pecial arrangementi for prolonged ttay,
D. BUBKABD, Proprietor.
j^ttmm
\a%*i,
MURRArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
23
GENEVA*
GRAND HOTEL DE LA PAIX.
200 BOOMS. TABIF. LIFT.
Finest House, in finest sitaatlon in front of Lake and Monnt Blano.
ELECTRIC LIGHT IN EVERY ROOM.
ProprletOi^DI rector, FRED. WEBER.
GENEVA.
HOTEL PENSION VICTORIA
(FORMEBL7 HOTBL FLAEGEL).
lE^inest fdtnatlon^ near the English Qardoi. Splendid view on the Lake and the AIpi.
Moderate charges. EleotTlc light. Omnibus at the Station. Lift. Baths.
IV. sriKSS, Proprietor.
GENEVA.
HOTEL.FEH8I0K BSIJiEYITE,
RUE DE LYON.
HEALTHY Situation. Most extensive and
shady grounds. Comfortable apart-
ments and single rooms. Highly recom-
mended. Pension from 5 francs per day.
JEAN SUTTERLIN.
GENEVA.
HOTEL DE LA FOSTE.
Best sanitary arrangements. 100 well-
farnished rooms, from 2 to 3 francs the bed.
Table d'Hdte Dionar, S^ francs and 4 francB, iriiM
Included; Sapper, 3 francs. Pensioo, for stay.
7 to 10 francs. Eleotrio Light. Lift
OK HO A (ITAIiT).
iiiiii mim, isirri,
STDRiULIC LIFT AND RAILWAY OFFICE,
ELEOTRIO LIGHT.
Only FIRST -CLASS HOUSE built for an
Hotel ; in the healthiest position in the town.
Q. BOSGARELLO & OH. SON.
GENOA.
HOTEL DE LONDRES
(Opposite to Hubattino's Office)
XT
PENSION ANGLAISE.
The nearest to the Oentral
Station*
First-Class. Full South. Moderate
Prices. Lift.
FLEOHIA & FIOBONI.
GIJON (Spain).
aBAND HOTEL FBANOAIS.
LA IBEBIA. '
MAGNIFICENT SITUATION, between
the two Beaches. View on the Port
and open Sea. Apartments for Families.
Table d'Hdte and Restanrant.
L. MALET, Proprietor.
GMUNDEN.
BIOTKIi AUSTRIA.
A beautiftil, first-class Hotel, with every
modem comfort, and large shady terrace on
the lake. Special arrangements for a pro-
tracted stay. Steamboats land at the Hotel
Pier. The Hotel Is conducted by the pro-
prietor. Lift. Pension. Baths.
Ur. F. SOHIiECX.
GREAT MALVERN. ,. . ,. .
DR. FERCUSSON'S HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT. (it^Hs.)
UNDER New Management. Stands in own grounds. Open all the year round for
patients and visitors. Thoroughly warmed and ventilated. *' Home-Uke." com-
fortable, refined, and cheerful. Drawing-room the finest in Malvern. Attractions unrivalled.
Sqenery unsurpassed. Every Hydropathic Appliance. Electricity. Weir-Mitchell treatment.
Maiifiage. etc. Admirably suited to persons liable to Asthma, Bronchitis, or Incipient
Consumption. Lawn Tennis and Billiards free. Golf Course dose by. — For Prospectus.
U HCfiRAT'S HANDBOOK ADTERTISKB. Hay,
QRENOBLE.
HIOTEL^MONNBT.
r[S qilendidlyndtiuitod Fint-dut Hotel, wUoh ia the lueeat In the
Town, and ei^foyt the well-merited EtTOor of FNuiUet and TonriBta,
hu jwt been conslderablj enluged moA Newl; Fnniiihed. The Apart-
metdi, kigo and Noall, combine elegance and oomfort, and even Attention
haa been paid to make thii one of the beet Pi^miKiial Hoteb. Public
and Private Drawing-rooma ; English and VmuHi Papen, Table d'Sdt«
at 11 and 6. Private Dinnen at an; hoar. Excellent Gnidne. Moderate
Ohaigea.
The Onuubnsei of the Hotel meet all Tnjns. Batbg. Inteipietera.
Ij. TBIIjLAT, Proprietor.
URIAGE-LE8- BAINS.
HOI'S]:. KESTAXJKATST, MONNET.
Foonded in 1S46. Bngliah Titlton will find eyerj oomfort and Inxniy
In thii Firat-OIau Ectabluhment. Private Booms for Familiea. Exoellant
Onlrine and Winea. Table d'U6te, 11 and 6 Oarriagea and Honea can
be had in the Hotel far Ezonrdona and Promenadei
HAVRE
OBAND HOTEL AND BAINS FKASCATL
0pm oB llta j/ear. _ TabU ^MSU. BetUMntnt facing Vte Bta.
ilUu. FmulMi Crom li tt. •.
1892.
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
25
HAMBURG.
HOTEL I>E L'EUROPE.
RENOWNED FIBST-CLASS HOUSE, patronized by H.B.H. the Prince of Wales, and by
most of the Imperial and Royal Families of Europe. Splendid situation, overlooking
the Alster^Bassin. 180 Booms and Apartments. Elegant Reading and Smoking-Booms.
Baths. Lift. Table d'HAte. BBETTSCHNEIDEB fc BANDLI, Proprietors.
]3 HARROGATE.
"THE GRANBY."
FIRST-GLASS FAMILY HOTEL, facing the Stray. Every accom-
modation for Visitors and Tourists. Carriages to Wells and Baths every morning
freeofdiai^. Good Stabling. Carriages on Hire. Tennis Court in the Grounds.
W. H. MILNEB, Proprietor.
HEIDELBERG.
HOTEL DE DASMSTADT.
Thxee MinalM* from th« Station. This Hotel,
beantifalhr (dtiuted on the Bismarck Square, Two
Minatei' from the new Neckar Bridge, is well
known for its good keeping and jery moderate
prloefl.
H. KBALL, Proprietor.
HELSINGBORG-^WEDEN.
HOTEL MOLBERG.
FIBST-<3LA8S HOTEL. The largeot and moat
comfortable in the Town and Market Place.
Fire Minntee' from Railway Station and Steamboat .
Bestaurant and Cat6. Baths and Carriages in the
Hotel.
L. GOETZE, Proprietor.
HOTEL
HILDESHEIM.
D'ANGLETEEBE.
FIRST-CLASS HOUSE,
SITUATED IN THE OENTEE OP THE TOWK.
50 Rooms and Saloons, fitted with every comfort of Modern
Times.
BATHS IN THE HOUSE.
OMNIBUS AT THE STATION. CENTRAL HEATING APPARATUS.
c. Hannnx.
HOMBURG.
HOTEL DE RUSSIE.
TjlIEST-CLASS HOTEL. One of the best in the Town.
^ Commanding a magnificent view. Situated with the
" Villa Augusta " in the extensive Park of the Hotel. Best
situation, close to Springs, the Kursaal, and Tennis Grounds.
Splendid Dining Boom with Covered Verandahs. Finest
Bestaurant. F, A. LAYDIG, Proprietor.
HOMBURG.
rrOTEL DBS QUATRE SAISONS, and VILLA, with the finest viewB
-LL of the TanniB, kept by Mr. W. SCHLOTTERBECK.— Thla first-rate House Is
exceedingly well situated near tbe Sources and the Kursaal. It combines every comfort
desirable with moderate charges. It has a beautiful Garden for the use of Visitors. Highest
position, and one of the best Table d'H6tes in the Town. Arrangements at Moderate races
at the earW and later part of the Season. Patronisedlby H.M. the Emperor Frederick,
H.M. the Empress Victoria and H.I.H. Princess Victoria of Germany.
^BBi
jUJlMj y
26 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. Maj,
BATHS OF H0MBUR6.
MINEEAL SPBINGS
very salutary for DISEASES of the STOMACH and LIVER
and ATTACKS of GOUT,
UNBIVALLED SUMMER CLIMATE.
SOVEREIGN CURE in NERVOUS DEBILITY.
MINERAL, PINE and MUD BATHS, highly recommended
for RHEUMATISM, in the NEW KAISEE-
WILHELM'S BATH.
LAWN TENNIS GROUNDS.
All kinds of Amusements. Comfortable Hotels and Private
Houses at moderate prices.
MAGNIFICENT KURHAUS, with the well-known
RESTAURANT.
BATHS OF HOMBURQ.
HOTEL BELLEVUE.
PIBST-CLASS HOUSE, facing the Eurgarden and Music Pavilion. Small and large
•*■ Apartments with balconies. Excellent ventilation in all parts of the house, as well as
perfect sanitary arrangements. Hydraulic Lift. Telephone. Baths of every description,
in May, June, and September arrraBgements for Pension at moderate prices.
W. PISOHBR, Proprietor.
HOMBUBa.
HOTEL RICHELMANN.
PATBONIZED BY ROTALTT AND BEST FAMILIES. One of the Best First-Glass
Hotels in the Town. High, Dry and Airy Position, in the finest part of the Town.
Close to the Kursaal and the Wells. Latest Sanitary Improvements. Verandahs, Beautiful
Garden. Excellent Cookery. Choice Wines. Arrangements made on very reasonable
terms at an early or later part of the Season. RICHELMANN, Proprietor.
HOMBURG.
EOYAL VIOTORIA HOTEL ^ Patronized by H.R.H. the Prince of
Wales and several other Royal Personages. Highest and Driest Positioa. Flist-
Class Hotel, close to Springs and Knrsaal, fine view of Tamras Mountains. Qaiet Apart-
ments. Fine Garden. Newly enlarged by Three spaclons Villas. At early or later part
of Season arrangements made on very reasonable terms. Stag. Roebuck Shooting, and
Trout Fishing, free for guests of Hotel. GUSTA VE WEIGAND, Prcprieior.
ILFRACOHBE HOTEL.— ^reo^ SedUh and Pleasure Euort
250 Apartments. Handsome Reception, Dining, Reading, Billiard and Smoking
Boonu, all on the gronnd floor. Ornamental Qronnds of Fire Acres. The finest Katine Esplanade £
the Kinefdom. Sight Lawn Tennis Courts. Table d'Hdte Dinner, at separate tables, from 6 to 8 o'dock.
There is attached to the Hotel one of the Largest Swimming Baths in England, the temperature of which is
regulated according to the season ; also Private Hot and Ctold Sea and Freeh Water Baths, Douch^ Shower,
Aa Full Descriptive Tariff of Manaokb, Ilfracombe, North Devon. The attractions of ItCnoawibi, and the
Places of Interest in the neighbourhood, point to it as the natural centre to be chosen bgr ttie Tooiist iriio
desires to see with comfort all the beauties of Coast and Inland Scenery whJch North Devon alRnds.
There is also ea«7 aooess into South Devon and Cornwall. The means of eommnnioatioBa, t^ Baiboad sad
Steamboat are most complete. TouHtt TiekeU to I\fracomb*/or Tteo MonUu are issued dvnng the Season
at all the principal Bailway Stations in England. I
HtTRRAT^ HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
INNSBRUCK.
HOTEL TYROL.
CAAL LA2TDSEE, Proprietor.
Bitnation of loiiBbrnck
renders it a very Bgreea" "
place of resideucQ all the jtttc
roDnd. !□ Spring as weU u
in AntnmTi it is eepeciall; ti
be recommended as a stopping
place between the difierent
watering pUoei. It ia <"
to be recommended after a
sojourn at the seaBide.
Three Firet-Class Hotels.
OppotiU the Sailtnaj) Station,
IKN8BBUCE is the centre from which many splendid
excaraions can be made in every direction, and of any
lei^. Attiac- HOTEL DE L'EUROPE.
tive waits in ■-
the immediate '
neighboarhood \i
of the town, I
and the differ- 1
ent elevations. B
reader it a good g
place for wait- i
•'■■" cures after i
Bjstem ofEj
ABBAireE.
TELEGRAPH
orpioES.
JOHAITN BEINHART, Proprietor.
E climate in Vinlcr, dry, HOTEL ZUR OOL.OENEN SONNE.
lirenjUflidij, nmnji, /r«
cold vnndl and fugt, baa
Ud nuoy Tjglton of late
fotmll lilt grtstcM relief are wesk.
"innleuent, neivoiu, appetitelew
Hm ahOTS Eotals ofTar Pension at the most moderate t«rmi for the Winter
Seaion, accordii^ to roomi, bam. fl. 3 npiraiiu, room inelnded.
Biflily lUnttraUd Quidu of Inntbruck tent on application, by the Pro-
prietor) 0/ abone HoUlt, free of charge.
28 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May.
LCOl
**THE RUNNACLEAVE."
Private Hotel and Boapdlns H«iue. Largest in the Town.
120 BEAUTIFULLY APPOINTED ROOMS. CAPITAL TEHHIS COUBTS.
LARGE RECREATION HALL.
To seat 500, with fitted Stage for Pliyate Theatricals, Ooncerts, Tableaux Yivants, &c.
Haiid8om6 Billiard Room. D&rk Boom for Amateur Photographers.
27 Ton Tacht, for sole use of Visitors.
OMNIBUS MEETS EVERY TRAIN. MODERATE TARIFF.
INNSBRUCK.
HOTEL KREID.
TSTESXT THE STATIOIT.*
Omn ibns by every Train. Splendid Panorama from every Boom
68 well-furnished Bedrooms and Saloons^ with every modem
comfort Lift. No charges for service.
VEBT GOOD BESTAUBANT. EXCELLENT WINES.
JOHN KREID, Proprietor.
INTERLAKEN.
JUNGPRAU.
F. SEILEB-STEBCHI, Proprietor.
npHIS Establishment, with two Branch Honses, is sitnated
■^ in the centre of the Hdheweg, and enjoys a splendid yiew of the
Jongfran and the entire range of the Alps. It reoommends itself for its
delightM position, as well as for its comfortable sooommodation.
TABLE D'HStE AT 2 AND 6.30 O'CLOCK.
DINNERS A LA CARTE.
CARRIAGES, GUIDES, AND HORSES FOR
MOUNTAIN EXCURSIONS.
OMNIBUS WAITING AT ALL THE STATIONS.
^mmmm^imt
UDRRArS HANDBOOK ADVK&TISEIt.
INTERLAKEN.
so
HURRArS HANDBOOK ADYERTISEB.
M*y.
INTERLAKEN.
RUGEN HOTEL, JUNGFRAUBLICK.
FEBST-OLASS Hotel and Pension, 160 Beds. Situated in the healthiest
position, 30 metx«fl higher than Interlaken, with Splendid Yiew on the Jangfiraa
andSUverhom. Lift, Electric Light, &c. Snrronnded by Terraces and Gardens. Pension
from 10 to 16 francs, aooording to Room. Redaced Prices in May, June, uid after
16th September. Season, May to October. J. OBSCH-MOLLKB, Proprietmr,
INTERLAKEN.
HOTEL BEAU SITE-PENSION.
IN a very quiet posUion, specially adapted for a long stay. Splendid view of the Jung-
frau, Moilch, and Eiger. Large shady Garden, Play Grounds, Baths. Twms strictly
moderate. Arrangements for Families. Omnibus at the Station.
Branch Hod8b->H0T£L DU LOUVRE CANNES. J. WtJBTH, Proprietor.
INTERLAKEN.
HOTEL NATIOIN^AIj.
PENSION WTDEB,.
COMMANDS A MAGNIFICENT VIEW OF THE JUNGFRAU.
Bxoellent Cooking*. Moaerate Cbarges. Feiislon« flrom 6
flranog a day. .
INTERLAKEN (8ul.«c).
GRAND HOTEL
METROPOLE.
LIFT.
F. BOTELDIEU, Manager.
LAKES OF KILLARNEY.
For a Description of the Soeoery and a
Guide to the District, see
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK TO IRELAND.
Post 8vo., lOf.
JOHN MURRAY, Albemarle Street.
ii
LAKES OF KILLARNEY.
THE LAKE HOTEL."
It Lb essential to apprise Tourists that there is at KllUmey. but One EstablUhvuent called
It is situated in the Bay of Castlelongh, on the Eastern shore of the Lower Lake, in the
centre of the varied scenery of the Lakes, within ten minutes' drive of the Railway Station,
and two minutes' walk from public road, where Glengarriff Gar stops to let down
passengers. Its grounds a4Join those of Muckroes in which is the celebrated Abbey of the
same name, and one of tlie most interesting and best preserved ruins in Ireland.
THE LAKE HOTEL OMNIBUS attends the arrival and departure of the trains.
Easy terms made for parties remaining a week or longer, aud a specially reduced Tariff
struck for winter months (October to May,) inclusive. Billiards. Baths. Lawn Tennis.
For particulars apply to the Manager. IS. M. BISHNAHD, Proprietor.
X.B, — It is Uie only JBCotel in KiUarney situated on iffie JLdhe Shore,
KILLARNEY LAKES.
By Her Most Gracious Majesty's Special Permission.
THE ROYAL VICTORIA HOTEL,
PATBONISED BT
H.B..H. THB PKINOE OF WALES, HJL.H. THB DUKE OF OONNAUaHT,
The Royal Families of France and Belgium, &o., the Nobility and Gentry of Great
Britain and Ireland, and leading American Families.
THIS HOTEL is situated on the Ijower Lake, facing Innisfellen, within ten minutes'
drive of the Railway Station, and a short distance irom the far-famed Gap of Dunloe,
for wliich it is the nearest starting point.
Open throughout the Year. Table D'Hote during the Season.
POSTAL TELEGRAPH OFFICE IN THE HOUSE.
1892.
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER
31
M^
SPA KISSINGBN, Bavaria-
STATION OF THE BAVABIAIT BAILWAT,
SEASON FROM MAY 1 UNTIL SEPTEMBER 30.
I OST delightfal station, air bracing and pure. Beautifiil woods with extensive walks,
L riding and driving. Comfortable Hotels, Bestanrants, and private Boarding-Houses.
Bathing Establishments, on a grand scale on the Royal Salioe, the Knrhaus, and the Aktien-
Bad (the latter is open from April 15 till October 20). Most efficient Mineral Waters,
such as Rackocsy, Pandur Maxbronnen. with Chalybeate, Sool-gas, Steam and Moor baths,
Pnenmatio Boom, (Glocke). Inhalation Establishments, with nitrogen inhalation. Hydro
and EUectric-therapeatlc Treatment. Occasion to use tbe Terrain Care. Massage and
Hygienic Oymnastic. Whey-Oure. Superior Ordiestra, Theatre, Elegant Conversation
Saloons, Music, Playing, and Beading Booms, Large Garden and Pleasure Gronnds,
Prospectus, sent tree and postpaid, on application to the BOYAL BADKOMMISSABIAT,
Bad-ICisBingen.
KI88INGEN.
HOTEL VICTORIA & KAISERHOF.
First-Class House.
Femion and arrangements for longer stay at Moderate Charges.
WILIilAM TODT, Proprietor.
LAN DECK (TIROL).
HOTEL POST.
BXAUTIFUL potlUon with sploidld view of the
Olader. Be»t and largest Hotel of the town
with old repaUtlon. Station of the Hail to the
Slelrio and to the En«adin.
T03. MiJLLEB,
Po$tma$t«r and Proprietor.
LINZ, UPPER AUSTRIA.
HOTEL NEUBAUER,
ZTTM BOTHSN EB.BBS.
FIBST GlaM Hotel of eld reputation, sitnate.
opposite Steamers' Station. Splendid riew.
106 Bedrooms and Saloons. Librarr, Reading-
Boom, Pension. Moderate charges. Omnibasatthe
Station. Telephone, Table d'HOie. RiNeubauer,
Also Proprietor of HOTEL NBUBAUB& at
JODBAD HALL in Upper Anstria.
HOTEL ERZHERZOG KARL
BEST Bitnation. Opposite the Landing Place.
Finest view on the Danube and surrounding
mountains, next to Custom House, I*ost and Tele-
graph OlBcee. Every Comfort Excellent Cuisine
and Cellar. Foreign Newspapers. Omnibus to
every Train. Private Oarriagea
F. MAKSCHNEB, Proprietor.
LISBON.
HOTEL DURAND (EngUsb Hotel)
LABGO J>0 QVIITTBLLA,
■PIBST CLASS ESTABLISHMENT.
J. Situated in the most central part of the Town.
Highly recommended for its comfort and moderate
charges. Beading Buom. Several languages spoken
IjISBOM.
THIS Fiist-Olass well-known Family Hotel, lately renovated by the
Boyal House of Bnganza, and fitted up by the new Proprietor, Victor G. Sassktti,
highly reoommendftble for Ita large, airy, and Comfortable Apartments, commanding the
most extensive and picturesque ylews of the Biver Tagus, as well as of Lisbon. Superior
Ciddne, and careflilly-selected Wines.
TEBMINUS of the aOTHABD
BAIIiWAT on LAaO MAaaiOBE.
THE GBAIID HOTEL
LOCARNO.
BEST STOPPING PLACE <m tke
ITALIAN LAKES.
27 hrs. fk*om London. 17 hrs. from
Paris. 4 hrs. from Milan. 7 hrs.
from Qenoa. 6 hrs. from Lucerne.
OPEN the whole year. Most InxuriouB and comfortable home for all
the seasons in Italy or Switzerland. Patronized by all the Boyal Families. Unrivalled
situation in the finest climate of Europe ; without snow, wiod or fog, but with plenty of
sunshine. Entirely adapted for winter residence. Pronounced by the
body Physician of H.M. The ^ng of Bavaria and University— Prof. Alots Martin— to be
the healthiest and best spring, autumn and winter resort. Beautiful walks and mountain
excursions. English Church, Doctor, Society. Lift. Private Steamer and Carriages for
visitors. Exquisite Cuisine. Moderate charges.
Messrs. BAIjIjI, Proprietors
32
MURRArs HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
May,
LOCH LOMOND.
TARBET HOTEL
Is the most commodious on the
Lake. PartiM Boarded on Moderate
Terms.
A. H. MAGPETERSO!^, Proprietor.
LUCERNE.
HOTEL DU RIGl.
Comfortable, pleasant situation.
Open from 15th APRIL to 6th OCTOBER.
LUCHON, BAQnIrES DE, PYRENEES.
GRAND HOTEL RICHELIEU.
(^Hotel de 8,M,leroide EoOande.)
200 Booms, 10 Salons. Splendid yiew.
Villa Gradense, to Let Omnibus at all Trains LOITIS EffTSABEf Proprietor.
LYNTON, NORTH DEVON.
ROYAL CASTLE FAMILY HOTEL.
Patronized by the English and Continental Boyal Families,
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, especially favourite and attrac-
tlye. Table d'Hote. Beading and Drawing Booms. New
Smoking and Billiard Payilions, all Facing the Sea. Magnificent
Views, and Ornamental Grounds of Twelve Acres. Private Hotel and
Boarding House attached. ELECTRIC LIGHTING.
THOS. BAKBB, Proprietor.
HOTEL
LYONS.
UNIVEES,
FACING PEBRAOHE STATION.
THB HOST COUFOBTABI.B.
FvOl Soutli.
Mrs. DUFOUR IS ENGLISH.
LYONS.
GRAND HOTEL DE LYON.
PLACE DE LA B0UB8K
FIR8T-0LAS8 HOTEL.
MACON.
GRAND HOTEL DE L'EUBOPK
Xlve minutes' from the Station.
'PIBST-CLABS, and well litQAted, with Tiew of Mont Blanc. Beoommended to FamUies. Interpreter.
Carriage* Omnibus. Mmo. Vve. BATAILLABD, Proprietress.
llaoon, the most favovired Station for hoaxs of arrival and departure, is the moet central stopping^plaoe
ftnm Ftels for Switaerland, Italy, the Mediterranean, and terminus for direct trains for Tome and BoraeMut.
All the faat trains and trains de l«xe call at Maoon. Wines for Sale and Export.
1892.
MURRArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
33
MALMO <SWEDEN).
HOTEL HORN.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, completely renewed, in the centre of the town, commanding. %
fine yiefw, opposite the Railway and Poht Oi&ce. Comfortably furnished. Qood
Cooking. Bestanrant and Gai& Gold and Warm Baths. Private Unners. Moderate
Chftisei. ' » I. F. H. HOBN, Proprietor.
TT
MAUCO (SWKDSEO.
ijesL lEL JBIL USE ]|EI lELm
|7IRST-<}LA8S HOTEL, the Largest and most Comfbrtsble in ths T^ywn, neW and richly
XI fitted up, 100 rooms. Situate on the groMt Si|ua^ iil the Tielnity of the Bsll#a^
Stations and Steamboat l^andingd. One <tf the most commodious, and respecting charges,
one of the cheapest hutels in Scandinavia. Booms firom 1 krona, upwards. Baths and
carriage In the notel. Heals k laCscte, at all hours. Prompt and polite attendance.
Pinner hept rssdy for passei^^ers.
MABIENBAD.. . .
FIBST-GLASS H0U8IS, patronised by English. Elevated position, near the Springs
and Bath Establi:»hment8. Single Booms and Family Apartments, furnished with
«v6ry modem comfort and luxury. Carrisges for Excursions. Omnibus at all Trains.
HAMMEBSCHMID, Proprietwr.
MARlENBAb.
HOTEL K LINGER.
pmST and Largest Hotel, with private lioi]M6,HAt/BMATB'S H0I7SB,
■L MAXHOF No. 100, and the recently opened HOTlfiL KLINGEB, Ute Stsdt Dresden,
connected with the Old House. If est beautiful situation of the ^pa, fUvated at the comer
of the Promenade on the Kreuxbrunnen and the Park, commanding a duurming view.
NewlT snd eleganUy fbmished. 360 Booms and Ssloona. ^^^^^^^^^g, Conyersstlon, 4Mid
Smoking Booms. Electric Lighting. All the Dining Silicons Bedecorsted. Lift. Table
d'Hdte and & la Carte. Meals sent oitf into priv«t^ ^o«sss. ,
Oanriagei at (he MoUL Omn^nu at ike SiaHon,
In answer to several inqulriest the Proprietor begs to intimate that he does not keen
Toutors, and therefore begs to wan TfeaveUera sgainst aqf fUae statements respeottng hn
Hotel being ftiti, etc ^ j^ HAX3MAYB, Proprietor.
.*
• VaXaia. - MARtlGNY. - Suisse.
GBANP HOTEL DU MONT BLANG. ^
THE Yitttt and the Largefit Hotel at Martigny. 150 Beds. Newly
Furnished throughout. Twenty new Balconies. Splendid Vi^ws. BiUhir^
Smoking, sad sBaadlng Booms. Magpifloent shady EogOSb Qarden' in front of the houie, ^
witlufeuutain. Blectritc Llgfaft^througboat^ Every eomfert. Carriages. Good Service.
ITooerate Prices. 0. 00BNXJT.B&I7NNEB, Promletor.
. MAri^Npe.
I RHINE HOTEL.
FmST-CL ASS HOT£U Finest Positiap and Splendid View of tke
' Sfihe. EsMcisUy teoemmende^ to^ En^Il^ a&d Amerfoan Travellers. - fiboms,
including Light snd Attendance, from 2 francs 50 centimes. Omnibus at Station. For a
long stay Pension. W. SCHIMXSL.
MAY6NQE.
T
^p"
t ^
WBLJi-KlJQT^N, FIB^TjPJiASS HOXEL., /Cltorougb Oom^t,
V 1 V excellent OooUiig, 'Choice ^Wmesi at Xoderate Ohaiges. Since the' remo vsl oFtne
ndlway, the Finest and Best Situated Hotel in the Town, alfording an open view of the
' river. Favourite and quiet stopping place for excursions into the neig^bonrtiood. Spe^l
srrsDgementa ibr Winter abode« • QpWMtte the landing <)>]s# of thsste^mets: Omnibus
meets all trains.' fooprietor; BUDOLPfl BBIPgL, >or years lfon<yer ^ this Hotel,
34 HURBAT'S HANDBOOK ADVEBTISIB. Kaj.
MENTONE.
GRAliirD fiOTEL HE VSNISE.
ASGirom. lax.'
ITaBST-GLASS Eaglbh Hoiue, Biliuited in a Uige ordeB, fUl foath, fiv ftw tlie Ka.
X BfWlaprmt. Swoklng and Reading Bmob, South.
S. SOMAZZl, ProprietT,
MENTQMe. a^r CLASS' HOTEL.)
H.<>TeL DE BELLE VUE.
THIS weUoloMiwii BSTABUBHMENT if beavtiftilFf ritnated im tlie
b«it qoart^r of fke Tain^ wlfb a rmt Oarden» and allbrdi ereiy Bogliali oomfifft.
FatroniMdby tieBojalFuDiljof Engtand. Xawn anmni* Cburt. Aacenteitr, lifL
Q. IHN ATCT\ Pfoprietog.
HOTEl"**^ ROME.
ADMIRABLT ritnated, ftOl SooOi, on the Ooxaob a few-sUm from th»^PiUMBn» Soda,
and Galleries. This Hotel, oomfbrtably Airniebed and iltled np witii the ftnateit
oaieb is warmly recommended to EngUah travellen for its comfort and medante chaisea.
Branch House— PIAZZA FONTANA, 8 and zo.
UFT. BOBISLLA BBOTHKBa, fmpatotow.
MILAN.
HOTEL METROPOLE.
THE only Hptel on the Piaiza del Boomo. Fint CDuw vntii moderate
Ohafgec HTdranlio Lift Tariff in OTeiy Boom. Highly reoom-
mended to EngliBh and American Familiea.
MOSCOW.
HOT£L SLmAMIT MAE
The Uriest FTrst-Cls&s Hvtel In this Tdwn.
AHD BATH-T\00jVl3.
ALL LANGUAGES SPOKEN.
Onmibos. laterpreters to all BHUway Stations.
^StUphone, %qsA mib ^tUgt^h <DIOfa0 in the \ifftat.
1892. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 35
GRAND HOTEL DE MILAN.
MODEBN Comfort Baitway Booking 0£9oe. Lnggage Begistefed
Tbrabij^. Hydranlle Lilt S«Mm HMting aad Electrio Light in e^eiy room.
J« S1PAT1^ Oo-propiietor of theGnod ttvMat V«iiifie and ttieGnuMl Hotel at Lagbont.
MOSCOW.
THE best diuated in the oentre and healthiest part of the Town, near
all the places of Interest and principal busineee quarter. English spoken. Omnibos
meets aU trains. j^, 0I.AXJ8BN, Proprietor.
Formerlp Manager of the Midland Hotel, London, and cf the Sehweixerhqf, Lucerne.
NANTES.
HOTEL DE FRANCE.
PLAGE GBASLIN. YEBT FINE.
17IB8T-GLASS HOTEL. Entirely renovated. Large and Small Apart-
^ ments ftnr Families. Sitting Rooms. Bedrooms from a fir. Tsbled'HAte. Bcstawnuit.
Eleetrio lifpkt. Telephone.
OwmibuM amd Ckurriagei, JBngKik spoken, DOUBT, PXoptletof.
NUREMBERG.
HOTEL GOLDEN EAGLE.
FIBST-GLASS HOTEL, well sitnated, opposite the Krlegerdenlcmal,
newly re-boilt. contains 110 elegantlj nimished Booms and Saloons, and is mooh
flreqnented by English and American nmilies. Arrangements made with Families and
Single persons. Mths In the house. CSarriages. Omnibu s to s nd from the Station.
L. SOHIiBKg^ Proprietor. _
NURNBEHQ (NUREM^EItq}.*
HOTEL BAYERISCH'Stt-HOX^.
THIB Plirt^ate aai tapwlor Botal. ritnlMl la tU owtie of tb« toWB, k UffUy spoken of bj &igltah and
• laariflMkTmvdlanfttritisoMnJ fMnfort aiiA aod«ato oha^ML Bm Iwta frtAtfyonlarffed, aad
oontaiiii BOW 100 w«a-fianibliod roons and Mloona. Ladtas' and Btaning Saloon, Bmoldiif Boeoi. Ac., and
a boMitlftal lai|» DiaiDc-Boom. Rnidiab and Fonicn Mowspapom GarriatM ftt4h»HolaL
to and fhMn oeoh train. SnclMk Ghnrdi in tha Bold: Diflna Barfioa oranr Ban'
OSTEND.
MERTIAN'S
VAHIIiT HOTBL AND
FXNSION.
NERVI.
HOTEIj viotobia.
Near fkt Bta amd Jtoilisay StuHon,
18 MINUTES FROM OKNOA.
CUmiotkt Seei amd Kit^Mtiol. WUfHume. | SiorFrtoPLAdnrOBALLKtrMSsTnAnw.
OSTEND-
HOTEL DE LA PLAGE.
FIBST.GLASB HOTBL FACINQ THE BATHINQ FLACE.
(>pe» from I2b« id June to l^ih OipUb er. H ighly raoommomde^^
3f. and O. THOMA, Proprtotflsa,^ j
PALERMO. ^
HOTEL DE FRANCE.
rBQUKNTED by English and American ftmllies; has many nmnr ngmst in.tha.
healthiest posltkm in Falermbb CMdng the beauUfnl Garden aaiflNdia,,Ffm Jfarti^
near the Botanical Garden and YillaGinlis. First-rate Cnlslne. ^^^ '
English and AmerkaB Newspapers. Moduati Cbamm.
* Nttmberg— «ee also p. 4S. ^ ,!2
<i
38 UDREira HANDBOOK ADTEKT18ER. lUj,
NEUHAUSEN-SCHAFFHAUSEN, FaUa of the Rhine.
HOTEL SCHWEIZERHOF.
T. VrEQiEXtSTEHS, Proprietor.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, repleU with every comfort, in the 1
position oppositx the Ffdii of the Bhine, and Fire mlnntei^'w
from Ifaidk»iueii Statitm,
NO GEATUITIEa to the SESVANT8. 200 BOOMS.
SplentUd View oftheMinefalls^ibeJIastle ofLaufen,
and tbe SwJss Alpine Cffiln.
FINE p'a'rk'^ A^D g arden.
BAILWAT TIOKSTB laSUED AT Tjis SOT^L,
Special an'ongements'; for ^a protracted stay.
The EngUsh (Thuroh Servicfr Is at the Sc£rdlzerhof.
, Omnibuses alNeuhatuea and Schtiffhauten: '
THE FALLS OF THE RHINE ARE ILLUMINATEP
Evcarjr Night dnring the Bupunei Seaaon. ,
la^. HtTRRATS HANDBOOS ADTBRTIBEB. 31
HOTEL MIEABEAU,
S, Xlne de la. Palac, 6.
Patnmhed hy the Boyal Familiei of geveral Cowta of Ewope.
BEAU'i'IFULLT sitnated in the flneat part of the Citr ; tha ^ttiest
OoBrt Yard in P«riB. Bestanmnt % la eofls, and PiintftKnoeiB
aX fixed pricea. Apartmenta of all stiea for Ptuniliea md Oeatlemeo.
American and EnglUb Papen. Lift, ^- J
yaTIT (l^cla iwi« tlmyiba-w), groprlat»r».
GRAND HOTiL BEAU SEJOUR.
a
r<IB8T-Ca:jAS8. Becommended Ibr ito Oomfort. Inoompanble poeitit
^ &r bnntf ot tha Puoniil. AputoHsU br Fuilllf*, with flew embrKlDg t
H-6TEL i)l" FRANOE.
>TKli, aitntted on the Flaoe Boyftle, oom-
oriha wtiale cbiln of tti« Fyrinia*, ujcf li liUoiiilnt
aAED&BJBS gBJaaaa, Proptletof .
■hClnb. ImpivvMtUft.
a
PAU.
GRAND HOTEL, GASSION.
SPLESDIIt VIEW UPOS THE PYBSuBBS.
Sitnatton full Sontli. Z.tft. 300 Rooma.
"hFuilllfgfiirilaiKiU;.
A. MBILI^y.
38 MURRAT'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. lUj,
PENZANCE.
MOUNT'S BAY HOTEL.
OntheKqdinAde. Facing ttaefiM. Fall Sooth Mpect.
Lamar Coffee and Dnwing Roome. Onmlbne end Porter meet all Tniii«.
MODSRATB TARIFF.
• ; C* BAU<, Proprietor.
PISA.
GRAND HOTEL
Moderate Charges.
w. OABMtaOHT.
SPEAKS GOOD ENGLISH,
PISA.
Royal Victoria HM
OlaMi. Oreat Attention.
BBOOMMENDED.
1 ^
PLYMOUTH.
OfUy M<M with S$a fimo,
(OK THE HOE.)
Fadng Sound. Breakwater. Ice. ICail Steamen anchor in ai|^ Pabllc Booms, and Btttiqg
Booaa, with Balconlea. JAMES BOHN, Pnprittm'.
POITIERS.
GBAND HOTEL DE FBANOE.— Firat-GlaflB and recommended to
Families and Tourists for its comfort and good management. The most centxal 4»f
the Town, near the Hotel de Yille, Prefectare, Telegraph, Poet Office, Mnsenm, Hlstnirifml
Monuments, and Promenades. Spedali^of Fowls and truffled Pitte of all sorts. Oftniages
for Drives. Railway (tannibus calls at HoteL
BOBLiy-BOUCHABDBAXr, Proprietor.
PRAGUE.
HOTEL ENGLISOHER HOF.
Well-knoi¥n First-Class Family Hotel, Central Situation.
The Next to the Dresden cmd Karidfod EaUway Station.
PATBONIZED BT ENGLISH AND AHEBICAK FAMTTiTTO.
JDoaonredly Beeommended* Kodez^iite Chairgep*
Isnrge Besti^uraat.
PRA<JUE.
HOTEL BE SAXE.
FIBST-CXtAS? FAHHLY HOTEL.
Next to the Dresden, Vienna, Oarlsbad and Brealan StattonHiM need of canii^ss.)
SPLENDID GARDEN-JtJLUHINATED FOONTAIH. -
RKADIMO AND CONVERSATION ROOM.
ELECTRIC LIGHT IN ALL ROOMS.
THE DIKBCTOBATXL
1892. MURBArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 89
PRAGUE.
HOTEL VICTOBIA.
FIB8T-0LA6S Family Hotel in the oentve of tke town. Fftiionized by
Kngliah and AmedotauL First-rate aiteadanoe. Modezate Charges.
O. &g H. w rtiiZKT?^ Proprietora.
CLOSE TO TBS BAILWAY STATION.
ELECTRIC LIGHT,
PRAGUE. . ^ -
Hotel JErzherzog Stepha/Hi
FTBST CLASS HOTEL, on the <* Wenzelsplatz," nearest to theRallway Stations and the
FMt and Tetogripli Office. Eiegmtly fnrofihed Bodauand ApartmentB. Garden.
BMtanimnt. Viemiefle Goflbe hooae. Splendid Cookiog and {oood WiMi. Baths, me p hoo t .
Csniages. Station of the Tram CSsrs. Onmibna at the Station.
W. HAUNER, PwoymeTOB.
<Waldaok.) FTBXONWZJBft.BAnr8. (Oermaay.)
■*■ ilBfle geixtlaBwo. Hie ii«*reak Eol«l to Um Qprtngs, th« prlnciiM) AUee, and Promenadea. llUi Hotel
ie eh eeay reaowned far ha ewwllea* ClalilBe ift Cliofc lrtoe>. tiifidi4eR«icnMttfiag*dBft«yUlpieb7
M?Ai aar^ijj D y„ ba mj 8 jeggj., gsgsw*)..
the week or MeeoB. Air rioh In oeoae. Himtliif aadfoodTimtt flbhiaf.ftee fartbeanaMtsoftbeEoM.
Lewa Teonia. OheqiietL QBrrUf ee aad Pheetont for tte Puk. Tenni moet weanepie. Pmrion fkom
< Malta apwaida^ ftill tward end lodfiiif . The only Hotel ooiunaiileatliiff with the Ferraginooa Bath
BataUlahment. The wm Mod Bfctha wfll be opaa thie ■eaaon. Xagliah aad Franeh apokan. OmaUnito
allTniaa Pynnonteaabe leaahed to 80 hoaw y|a Flnahlm. Tluoiwh Tloketa iMned at Tlotocla Slatloa
dtwet t» P y iai o at Tta i^ i ee ab oao', F lwa h lii fl^ Lohnob B ei » el ii t w o aat^C u a pwr day.
; VOIigBBS BBCWJUJHiSb Proprietors.
Bathing Establisliments of Bagatz - Ffafers.
Thermal springs of 87*5** = 98*e« F. same water as in Wildbad-<3hwtein.
Grand Hotel Quellenhof.
Grand Hotel Rof Bagatz.
Electric Light and Electric Lifts. Railway OfBoe. Telephone. Large and Shady Oaide&s.
Lawn tBennis And other Garden Games. Hagniflceiktiltnatiati. Etoleadtd View on tke Alps.
Sslutary Climate. Three Cottages and first-rate arrangtment of tne Baths belonging to U>e
Hotels. Stopping Place for Travellers going to the Kngadlne. Comfortable Oaafiges^to
all directfons al same &re as from Ooire.
Sdentiifie lUasage System : Dr. Xgt^ger.attsaded to byit Swedish Speeialis^
Large Kursaal '^'^c^SS^^b^^^^^S!^''''
BUJJABD, BAB, AND SMOKING BOOMS.
Grand Terrace In flue of the momttslns. Three gnundeonceita daily.
BatiL Hotel Pmfers
At the eotrsnce of the world-renowned gorge of the Tamina. Three miles firom Bagsts.
The Administration of the Bathing
Establishments of Bagatz - Pfafers.
40 HURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADTKBTlSUt. Kmj,
SANT REXSO, Xtaly.
GrANTD H6TEL DES AnGLAIS.
FlSmiOTLT TIBST.CI.A8S VAMTLT EOTBCL.
THE FINBffr AND BBffT SITUATION.
ENOLIBH BANITABY DBAQ^AQE- NO CESSPOOL.
ONLY HOTEL IN SAN BEMO -Slft-PtTED WITH TBE ELECIBIC LIGHT.
HTDKAUUC UPT.
8ATISFAQT0RY TERMS FOR SEASON.
G. CO:yiOf Proprietor.
RENNES. - - - -
GRAND HOTEL..
imxiBH', PraprUtor. ailXTOIS, flgaeewiot.
rtST-OLASS, well reoommended. EngliHli Spoken, and
'""gUt*' HgOT|i»pM».__ Onmibiu at the Station.
HOTEL AND PENSION RIGI-SCHEIDEGG.
qiEBMINirB BtaUon of tb* Bigl Kaltbad-Sokeidegg lUUiny. Ezwl-
OBANB HOTEL D£ IMJSSIE
■T DH lUB BafCAmnqoBB.
1893. MUBRAT'S HAKDB(X>K ADVfiRTISEIL 41
ROME.
PBNSION-TBLLEITBAOH.
Due Haeelli 66, dose' to Piazza dt Spagna and the Pineio.
SMGLI8S AND OBBMAN FIRST-CLASS FAMItT P^ySlON.
PATRONIZED BY DISTINGUISHED ENGLISH FAMILIES.
Seadinfir ft Smokinir Boom. Iiift. Teleirrams : Tellenbaoh* Bomft^
BATH8 OH SVSBT 7L00B. TSBX8 XOBXBATE. KIOfiT FOBTEB.
HOTEL ABBANQEMENTS W DESIEED.
-CLASS HOTEL.
place of 'Piazza dl
Spagna.
HYDRAULIC ELEVATOR. . VERY 6000 COOKING.
MODERATE CHARGES.
PH. SILENZI, Proprietor.
*— *— ■ii w i ? i ll I II ( 11 ■!■ > ■■*^— — i—
ROM£.
GRAND HOTEL MARINI.
First-Glass. TJnrivalled for its healtliy/qtdet, and oentral
situation. Full Sooth. Lift. Electrio Light.
(^OPEN ALL THE TEAB.)
E. MARINI & 00.
43 MITRRArS HANDBOOK ADVEBTISEB. Hmj,
..NURNBERQ.
HOTEL WUiTHMBERCER flOF
OlOM to th« atatlon. No 'Bus noeded. nR8T-CI-A88 FAMILY HOTEL.
The largest and beet situated in the town. 130 Bedrooms and Saloons
with 2D0 beds. Facing the Railway Station, Post and Telegraph Offioe.
Close to the German Mnsenm and Loreoi Ghorch. Mostly frequented
hy English and American fiunllies. The only Hotel in the place with
ocnaforMle Badiooms on the gvoiind ftior, and nice Garden whoe all
meals can be serred in the open air. Beantifiil Dining Booms, Caor
▼emtion. Beading, and Smoliing ^m, Batlu, and Osniagefl in the
Hotri. Pension in Winter time.
ROVAT C&a BAINS.
GRAND HOTEL.
pinaT'CLAsa motjbl, nxt^MAxiLic xxft.
OPEN FBOM 15tk MAY TO I&ch OOTOBEE.
(sm ft. «boT« th* Sea.) ST. BEATENBERQ. (Switaerlaad.)
" AZiVa vftoss.»>
qims Hotal ia much fk«ni«nted bj Xnf^Wi
^ FaalllM. Stendc in a BMatUnl SltuUloB,
•WfooBidcd by eotteMiTO maadown lawn Tennia
and PlMumv Oroiuidi. 100 Comtartebla Booms
vitii:
"]>m AUM0«»
NEWLT IMed vn. wllh ft btiUUnt vImt «r Om
S Lake, Obcriaad M oontainc aal tfMir .COaaianL
Laige Sheltand Oudan. 85 G«od «ii4 IBfoa
dtnaiad SonMi Lovely Walki to ' ~
'BdOi BOMOs oOMluQtad bgr t|L« aSDKlTBB VAMZItT.
B
ST. PETERSBURG.
HO jiEIa KE X xIAImCEk
Kept by X. BBKAULT.
E8T situation in the Town, Great Morskaia, right opposite the
Winter Palace, Hermitage, Foreign Offioe and Newski Prospekt
Oldest HoteL Tramways in all directions. Fashionably ftequented,
especially by English and AmeiiQfkn|b Jfilegant Beading Boom, with
French, English, American, German, anil Swedish Papers. Greatly to be
recommended for itf cleanliness Qomfort, ai^ superior oiM'm, Dinners
1 r; 5Qk. and |r. ^Hie charge fot Apartikebts is ffom 1 to ^0 loables.
All langQa4|;e8 spoken. Warm and Cold Baths. Post and Telephone on
the Premises. The Engliidi Guide, Charles A. Kuntze, highly oom-
mended.
f^ The Hotel is recommended in Murray's Handbook of Btuda.
Th6 HOTBL ' BlSLIiX VUE, opposite to HOTEZa BE
FBANCE, belongs to the same Proprietor.
1899. wntBArs huhams iDTunsia 43
ST. PETERSBURa.
PIEST-OLASS RES TAURANT.
A. COHTAHT.
MOIKA 58.
AmumI /br At n%Mt
aPLENESD 6ASDEN.
SI. fiEIVtgrLIS^^^ nuUL
HOTSL Dn MONT BLANC.
-D D^r Foa »d Mvvk. LoTdlTlHirS
— nl-ni nilii- III «iiniili ^nliiir
SALISBURY.
Utat».f» ^adkMk fitr in»^
DOIMt, Mid BOBMMt
aim > fell dMCilpUoa of StBtbrnj, Hi
CUhalnl, wtd S(«i*bni8«, PmIsts., IK.
yOffX JfCRRAT, Altimarle ttmt.
MLIWUIV.
THE WHITE HART HOTEt,
Nnwlf opporfu Ab OUhBdraL "ftt LA BQttT md PHPTCIPAL HOTEI. In tba CITT.
1 CBAa Bam HUud u< ImoUH Bosh uf nubu Oil!! BooBi loc "■-■ Tibia ^'HIM
aub. dllb( Ito MliltlM LW tsO) mm., U H|iu*ta lUilM. Ouiluai ud SmH vi HM lir
SALZBURQ.
HOTEL DE L'EUROPE.
OPPOSITE the Station. Fint<aMi Hotel, sanoiiuded tf a laiaa
FHk.sndon>iliisUHbertTfawoBUHlI<nmUli». PdsioV; nnUl (be ItthoTIalr
ttidiftir thfl IBtli of S^fmbor, fnu 4 flivlDi upwudi; ttvn tJw iBth of Jotjostfl tli^
lift rfriinilMliiii. nriiH I nn nulm ui ili Lum Xamil* Omuiili.
ELsorma liobt. sYDBAnua lift.
' <». JUMO^ RfoprttOf.''
SALZBURQ.
HOTEL DE L'EDKDFS, AND DEPENDBIICe.
Sole Batbfl. Puawigw I4A. Mactrlo Idght in oil the
Booms. Booma from 1 florliL
44 MUBSATV HiNIMOOe AOYSSTIBSR. Hmj,
St. MORITZ (Enqadin, Switzerland.)
6,000 Feet above the Sea.
'The NEW IRON BATHS'
(NBUES STAHLBAD.) _
First-rMe HOTEL and BATHING ESTABLISH MBNT,
with special powerful Chalybeate Spring.
TO BE OPENED 1st JULY, 189Z.
. JStands higher than an^ other Hotel at St Moritzbad.
Sunny' position, cl6de to Ae Pine Forest, sheltered
ftotn'Wilid and dnst. Sptendld yiewl cf the liake and
ftiow-Honntains.
300 BedB, spacions Sooiety-Booms, four BeBtamants.
English Grl^rl^OOm, Eleotric liight eyerywhere,
PosfMt Siui^ilkMXt Heating and Ventilating
apparatus. Faultleaa Pri^ge. No other but the
pur^it mountain Spring WaVM hid on Omigh-
out the whole Hotel.
ENGIilSH and AMEBIOAN TASTES wiU be
particularly stadied as regatda solid COmfort and gOOd
cooking.
SEASON, JUNE TO SEPTEMBER.
1892.
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
45
8AUMUR.
HOTEL BUDAN.
The only one on the banks of
thelioire.
SPLBNVn) VIEW.
8BN8 (Tonne).
8RAND HOTEL «( f A|I8.
dral and Promeiudes. Specially re-
oommended to Familiea. EngUih moktil.
Omniilnu to SUtlon. ' "
I r I
XSKOiAJS ?XIt8f Px<optwtoir*
BAD-SCHWALBACH.
THt SmHSEST IROH SPRINQ' IN T4iE WOULD.
THE TIVOU HOTEL AND PENSION.
BBST SXTUAaSBD VI&ST-CIiASS HOTEL.
mm
^mm
GRAND HOTEL DE PARIS.
BBVUiUB, BFAZK.
OrrUATBD in .the centra and pleasanteat part of the Oity—PIaza PaeilieO, formerly
^ Magdrien*. All tha rooms looking ontslde— North, Boolh, BmI, imcl W e rt mkL wwnied la no
Winter. Fire Plapee aad Btefwe. Hotel Omniboaei. and Inteniretori meeUag inriftoipfil Bnrapeeik-
> met aU Ikaljia Prcjfrietor, JULIO MEAZZA, late Manager of the Gbass Bovsl. Madbdw
SEVILLE.
Munf'a O Shaa'a; BiaMawr'v Irfln^ Pne-
oott't, EMnTt, Um»<y8tkm.'t Booki on flpdia.
Spanish Iiaoea.! -ianttwe wd Kddern ban^'
mate WI4te and UaakTlfanHUam Boaift. Ao.
Saperior <iaalitar>
: 71iotacrapna.-<A laige' aMortian^ Barilla
and Granada*
Spanlah Fana.— Aattqpe and Modeia.
Onide Booka— Itoain and PovtagaL latest
Xditiona.
Spaniah ^and, SnglUh Blotlonariaa.
Spanlah Phraaa Botika. Bookat sdlttoa.
AnoaMrtn^tofTaried liirliii^ Utafatant Old
SUTor, Oaiioo, Anttfaai, ft&. So., all of trUch maj
be had a* naaoaaUa prieeaar
tU^%. B. OaldwelL Flaia {fttera-lYo {Qr<mnd Floor), near Om Hota d€ Madrid <md |A« JToM da PaH$.
S X JEimlL
Gfand Hotel Mtannique.
F, LEYHy Proprietor.
PATBOHIZED BY THE BO^AL FAKIIY OF BELGIVII,
Atid iiM>intarin< » Ugh xepatation anxnig ttie Axistoon^ of
Eniope.
SITUATED IH THE HEALTHIEST FART OF THE TOVI.
LAROB' QABDiraT AND SWIMMIMa B&TH&
AijwMitg iA^ Boutetmrd da AngtftU and the EngJith Ohfurch.. ,
1 1 f
.i
V 1
OmflJBlJfi AT BACH ARIIITAIi.
*« MURRArS HANDB OOK ADVERTISER. May,
SPA.
HOTEL DE FLANDRE.
FIRST CLASS,
IM THE HEALTHIEST PART OF THE TOWN.
,Z Vt^..
CIRAND H6f.^L i>t L'm(lOPE.
Virst-olaas Hoiue, oloae to the Mineral Springs, Caidnob
^ and AnglloA phnrolL , •
FAMIZr EOTEH BmHLT BEOOMMENDjBD.
8PEZIA (Riri«rft di Leraate).
6fiAND HOTEL (§ GROGE DI MALTA.
A COMFORTABLE wtU diaiaed «i4 TiotflMed fint-dan boiUM, ftUl ponUi orerloQlteg
tb*Aiif. YiMrortbeCMraraMmnteini. A ftTOOiito mild wintar rwort. F»Im
ttnn^ 9 to 12 te. per day, win* inolvded. C0ATE8 A 00^ PrcpHetoru--^
STRASBOURG.
BESX^JTUATBD NEWLY BEBUILT FIRST-OLASS JEKKT]^
New ^e Station and GathediaL Olose to the PMt j»ad
T^l^mmh .OII|ee«. Baths, Moderate Ghama. Boqidb ftm 2 marKB,
light and attendance indtudedi Omnibus at uie Stat ion. Lift. , ^
CE. JIATHXSt Jtepd«t<»u.
STRASBOURa (ALSAOE).
HOTEL DE LA yiLLE DE PARIS.
THE ItfgMt, IbMst and moat oomfoTtable Hotel in Straabonrg. Sltoated in tli* baal
part of am Town, near the Cath«di«L Ualvenlty and Kauarpalaoa.
BTDRAULW LMFT, MODXJUfjl CMAa&SSU , _^
, .Imperial (^lart<y half b«an^lff9ToooQ^£S St.
THE C&tiiC&BB OF GOTTLANB,
BT
BULjOiR AljnUBl) TTieAT.Ti a TJBJL, TJBA^ Hoou # B JB.ili
Dedleailad Ij Spedal FermlaBlon to Hl^ 1IC«*7 ^^ King of Sweden aad Kerway.
lUnstmtad hj l^en^yni^tan Oopjrigbt Pbotograpba.
/MM afriet^ MmiUd fa 60 dDpOc
LopdoB^BOVOBTH A 00., Limited, Newton Street, High HoMboni^ V.O.
Pad ioat ad b7 ?ai|niaai«n to H.&.H. The Prineeaa of Walaa.
Wk ^rcMtectnfe Ht ih Glmrclies of DenmarL
By M€0or ALFREIk HBAJLES, F.8.A.
WITH TEN FULL-PAOE AND SBVENTT SMALLER XLLUBTRATEONa
Aoyal eve. &4«.
LOKDON : KXGAM PAUL, XBSNGH, CBUBMSB AND OO, LQCITXD..
MOBKAT'S HANDBOOK ADTEST13EB.
STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN.
GRAND HOTEL.
rpaiB HkndKme Building is dtmted in the flnMt ptti id the City
X between Ohsrlea the Xtlth's Square and the NbUoiiaI HtlMOiii, on
one of thePrindiMl Qiuji,j)iitkt the oonflnenoe of the Leke Hikr ud
theBaldo.
Th« Bnd Pnlaoe. one of the attrtflUdlt in Etnope,' fikcis OM Hotel on
theoMsdleidde ofthe BerixntR The Bojral Open' ettd the Triiiiaiwl
TbaMte* eie in oloee pioximitr.
The beleaniee end loof of the Hotel eoQUnand the mart extendve Viewi
c^thetatr.
^le HonM if replete wltlT everj modem IntproTement aod oonvenlenoe,
■ndDoezpsoM h«a heed (Mtredtorenderit one of the flMI'htid mbetocna-
fMiUa BoUU'oa the OonOUebt.
The Bnildinc oxileina TeoV Htindred Bleei^f Aperti^tk, beddea
DiniDf Borani, Sitting Bocpn^ Coffte end Beediug ^tema.^ BiOitia Boflin,
• Td^ieph end Poat.Offiee, Bathi, Betiring Boomi,* LanodiT, ukd other
teeoMme&thmgr- The wtwiiI fllta'tao he reeohed bj Steem {Jftt.
AUBuTOpM&'Lan^aKgeenioken. Gnidea end ConTejkniMe tnpniled ta
ellpleiMe^lntAlrelttottie^tjrandNdghlNinbMd. n^m* «m% fotind
to oompere tettnurAI; with Uuwe ot other fltet-diM Botela.'
GRAND HOTEL'S ANNEX.
QUStJ-F AI>bl-F>S TORG.
Fintelaaa Comniaroiid ftnd Tsmlly Hbtel, In t'*'*
Oantr*! pait of tha City.
R. CAblER,
AvprMor <;/ a« OroMl n>M «hI <>^ Ma 0nmd HobT* JniME.
48
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
May,
STUTTGART.
IS iltnaied in the finest part of the Town, in the beantiftd Place Boyal
«4foining the Railway SUtion, near the Pott Oflkw, the Theatre, the Royal Gaidenfl
oppoalte the Pklaoe, and flidiig the KBoJcBban. Thli Hotel will be fovnd nuwt oomfbrtahte
in ev«iy leapect ; the Apartmento are eleguitly ftirniahed, and niitahle for Vluiyiiiea cr
Single QentknieD. TaMe dTHMe at 1 and ft o^dook. Frendi and Eoglieh New^Mpen
Electric Ugbt Ocntral Heating.
endi and EogUeh Newgnapen
H. h G. Mi&QUARDT.
8TRASBURQ.
MOTEL NATIONAL.
TBI only oasopporila the Birilirojfltetioii. New
VfaaUSMi Hotel. ooMfaiiMd idlh •vwyOom-
fort. UtHf
•ad flfai^
and Lift
It. OBTSBJCAinr, Fronrietor,^«n«Mr(y
Managtr «/ Ou Htttl -ViU* dt Paris,
TARRAGONA.
HOTEL DE PARIS.
FIR8T-0LAS8: Ireqnented by EngUah
and American Tonrista. Ezodleiit
aooonunodation and every oooTenienee.
Italian proprietrae.
PRIMATE8TA FRATELLi.
THUN (Switzerland).
HOTEL THUNERHOF.
AFIBST-OLASS HOUSE, one of the laigest and most comfortable in
Bwitaerland. The only one with a Lift in the place, and eapedallT adai»ted Ibr a
long e^nr. The Temoe of the Hotel, whldi baa no rival in Switierland, u worth a viait.
Them ia alio an XngUah library.
Fenaion, during the whole Season, by staying Five Days,
finom 8 ik«2M8| everytiitng incduded.
CH. STASHLir,
Alio Froprietor of t&e Hotel dn Paradia at Cannei.
TOULOUSE.
GRAND HOTEL DU MIDL
Fatronised by the Duke of Norfolk And Due d'Auaaale.
BEAUTIFULLY SITUATED ON THE PLACE DU CAPITOLE.
FIRST-CLASS ESTABLISHMENT,
Gifering the same oomforta aa the largeat Hotela in France.
FrequerUfid by the highest Clois of Etigliuh and Anurieam ZVoMBen.
English spoken. Bestaurant and Table. d'BOte. Bioh Beading Boom
and Oony^nBtttiQii Salon: '* The Times " Newspaper.
KiSOTBIO JiIGHT IN BVBBT BOOM AND BAXiOON.
TOULOUSE.
GBP) HOTEL SODtOXE.
Place du Cavitole^
IRST-CLASS Oomfortable Hotel.
Patronised by the Highest Claas of
EngURi 'aiia AmaiM Tlavellen. Baths
int^egotet fPgliifttpft^pP. ^ .' . ' -
F
: TOULOUSE,
For an Ajoopani of this Towii, its Hoaevm,
' Chordiea, Ike., lee
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK FOR FRANCE.
PawI.s a NewEditten.. Vpe ^»vo.,^9:^i.
trOHV KUtlRAT, Albenftarle Street.
TOURS.:
\
HOTEL DE BOBDEAUX.
Propiriefcor, XCLOTIS DHjiaNOXT.
PotroniMd by MU Roya H Big hnut the.P!rince of Wales, and the Amtpeoa CowrU,
IN FBONT OF THE STATIo!N^Al^^POlt THE BOULEYABI).
.. kgp>en<iM Apa rtmeikf *»
18^2. M]mi^A,7f3 Hi^fiBOOfi AXKYfiHTlARB. 4»*
TOURS.
GRAND HOTEL
DE UUNIVERS.
ON THE BOULEVARD, NEAR THE
STATION.
Highly recommended in all the French
and Foreign Guide Books.
SUGBNX OUILLAXTMi:, ProprHetor.
LE TREPORT.
GRAND HOTEL DE LA PLAGE.
▼lAmT TB^BBS BT XSUNIBB, Froprletelres.
THE only Hotel fAdng the Sea. The best Bituailon in Tr6port. Ffant-OUM HooM.
Much frequented and recommended.
Table d'Hdte. Bestaurant k la Carte.
f^m
TURIN.
BAGLIONFS HOTEL TROMBETTA
ET D'ANGIaETEBBE.
WELL and conveniently situated in the Via Roma» oppoeite the great new Galleria
Nasionale. and near the Central Station, this Hotel enjoys a high reputation
among English and American Families for its home comfort.
Ezoellent Suites of Apartments and Bedrooms for Families and Gentlemen.
HTDJEU.ITLIG LIFT. OMNIBUS TO AND FBOM ALL TRAINS
EliBCTRIC lilOHT.
Branch House : GKAND HOTEIi, at CEBBSOIiE REALS
(PIEDMONT),
Altitude 4,800 feet. Renowned Ferruginous Springs. Splendid Alpine EzcurBi<8is.
GRAND H(XraL°I)E ROMA.
(Fmnerly Sota VUU de Madrid,)
Newlt done up BT 1TB New Fbopbietobs,
SOLDI & CIE, Plaza de Villarosa 6.
E
M inmBArs handbook ADVBBnfflCK. itsr>
VENICE.
M. JESURUM & C'^-
Diplomas and Prize Medals at eyery International ExliibltloB.
REAL LACE MAKERS.
AND ARTISTIC EMBROIDERIES.
PROFESSIONAL SCHOOLS depending on the
Oovernment.
Museum of Old Lace.
Lace of the Burano School under the Presidency
of the Queen.
POZTTE CANONICA • CA3CFO, B. FILIFFO GIACOHO,
l8t Floor, near the Bridge of Sighs, may be visited.
VENICE. i
o
o
o 2
132, Place St. Marc, 133. \ 1 1
0« H •-
5§°^
Only authorised Manufacture of the Venice ^^ is
<
Chain in fine gold for Necklaces and Bracelets; s g>g
Brooches, etc. ^ I *
— ^— i— — »— — — QO* O »
« *M tH
DIAMONDS, PEARLS, AND PRECIOUS STONES. Z'^%
STRAKGEBS are aUowed to visit the Manufiftotory. §•<'?.
Specialite : JEnameUed Coins* B'iw
M ^g
COLLECTION OF OLD COINS, WARRANTED. ^^g
MAX SPRICHT DEUTSCH. ON PARLE FRANCAIS. § §
NO OTHER ADDRESS. ^ B
. 5 I
1892. MUREAyS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 51
VENICE.
GRAND HOTEL VICTORIA, VENICE.
{CLOSE TO ST, MARCS PLACE,)
160 well-fumislied Bedrooms and Saloons from 2 fr.
upwardB. Pension from 8 fr. upwards, first-rate Ouisine, Table d'Hote.
Baths in every floor. Lift. Telephone. Electric Light
Readinffy Billiard^ ajid Smolduff-Roomsa
Perfect Sanitary Arrangements. Co6k*8 Coupons aeeepted,
A. BOZZI, Proprietor and Manager.
VENICE.
HOTEL D'lTALIE AND BAUER
BAUER-GRUNWALD.
FIBST-OLASS HOTEL, near St. Mark's Square, on the
Grand Oanal, facing the Church of St. Maria della Salute.
Patronized by English and Americans.
FIRST -BATE ATTENDANCE.
Celebrated for its Grand Restaurant & Vienna Beer.
POST OFFICE IN THE HOTEL. ELECTRIC LIGHT.
JULES GRUNWALD, Proprietor.
VENICE.
HOTEL D'EUROPE.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL.
SITUATED IN THE BEST POSITION ON THE GRAND CANAL.
Has just been repaired and greatly improved. New large Dining
Room on the Ground Floor overlooking the Grand Canal.
SMOKING AN D READING ROO MS. BATHS.
Patronized by the most distinguished Families.
HYDRAULIC LIFT.
) HintBAr*S HANDfiOC^ ADTERTtSER. Mn,
VERONA.
GRAND HOTEL DE LONDEES
mud MOTML BOTAL DBS DB1TX TOVKS.
LABS HOTEL IK VKEOHA.
THB OITLT FIBST-CLABS HOTEL IK VEBONA, la On omtn of Uw Tow
oomfort ud MwdHiU chugH. SnElUh Ct~~''' " '- -' "
■pskcn. Omnlbu u tha SUUcuu. Hi^kJ; no
Hf £auUO Uft. . fuiUiin ftim lllciMrniin pu d>r.
BOTTBBAtr & COLLBT. groprUtorm.
VICHY.
GRAND HOTEL DU PARC,
and OIlA74^£> XXOTEIL..
THE URGEST AND MOST COMFORTABLE IN VICHY.
A FIBST-OLASS HOTBL, siltuted in the Fsrk, fitdng the Bathi,
Springs, and Caaini).
PRIVATE PAVILWH FOR~F AMILIES.
GEiBMOT, t*r6prietor.
THI-KAISEIIHOF.REJTAURANT.
Tb«i4J.^ W.1I knDim nrA^MM BaUmn^ k
VIENNA.
HOTEL DONAU.
LeopoldiUdt TabontruM 49,
Clow Id. Three R1IIM7 SUUoDi.
' . Tfl«phoii«I BKtluj
1892.
MtTRRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
53
HOTEL " KAISErTnTliZABETH."
m
In the centre of the City» in immediate vicinity of
the Stephanplatz and Qnmd OpetA.
CONSIDBBABLY eularfi^ by the new construction, Eiiftn^rstpasie 9, rt-
commends itself for well-fitted Apartments, from 5 florins. 100 Booms,
from 1 florin. Beading Boom, Telephone, Baths. If wanted, Omnibns to and
from all Stations. French and Viennese Cooking in the Bestanrant. Special
arrangemients for Pension. Excellent VOslauer wine on sale, own growth.
FEBD. HEGEB^ Proprietor.
VIENNA.
HOTEL CENTRAL
(Formerly WelBsee "Robb), TABORSTBASSE 8.
LATELY BEFUBNISHED TBltOUOHOUT.
FIRST-GLASS HOTEL with every modem comfort. Highly reoom-
mended to Families and Genileaaen. Lift.* Electrio Light.
Excellent Cooking. Qarden. Bestaiuant.
Curansta/ten Helenenthal In Baden near Vienna.
CABL SACHE&, Proprietor.
VIENNA.
J.
& L. LOBMEYR,
Appointed Purveyors to the Imperial Court of Austria,
No. 11. EABNTHNEB8TBASSE.
The most extensive Establishment far BOHEMIAN CRYSTAL,
FANCY GLASS, and Chandeliers.
Every variety of Glass for Household nse, Ornament, and in Art
Workmanship. Spedalities in Engraved Glass and Locking-Glasses.
Ohandeliers, Cand^bras, in Crystal and Bronze.
IiABGE 8HOW-BOOtt:S UPSTAtEtB.
The prices are fixed, and are very moderate.^^Engl]Bh is vpokiba.
Their Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. & B. M*Cbaok)ek, No. 88,
Qneen Street, Cannon Street, E.C., London, will transmit aU ovieit with
the greatest eare and attention.
54 MURRAT'S HANDBOOK ADVKBTISfiB. May,
VIENNA.
HOTEL ARCHDUKE OHAELES,
EARNTHNERSTRASSE (the favourite Street).
ONE OP THE MOST RENOWNED FIRST-CLASS HOTEtS,
of very old reputation, in the most frequented centre of the town,
with good Restaurant English cooking in the House. Bath Rooms.
Reading Rooms, etc.
Patronized by English Families and Qentlemen.
FENSION. FBJCES MODERATE.
B, SMITE, Froprieior.
VIENNA.
BATHS.
WEIHEURGGASSE 22.
IN THE CENTRE OF THE TOWN.
(Next the Stadtpark.)
THE MOST COMFORTABLE TURKISH BATH IN VIENNA FOR
LADIES AND GENTLEMEN.
Saloon Baths, Watering Cures, Massage, Eleotrio.
VIENNA.
Bngliab Cbemidt,
18 KARNTHITEBBING 18.
English cmd American Prescriptions Dispensed by qualified English
Assistants, ivith Drugs from the best London houses.
AIX ENOLISE PATENT HXSICINES.
FRENCH AND AUSTRIAN MINERAL WATERS.
" TJIXililVA.
HOTEL BRISTOL,
KARNTH N ERRI NG,
NEWLY-BUILT ELEGANT FIR8T-CLA88 HOTEL
Eighty Bedrooms and Saloons, furnished with all modem comfort. Electric
Light in every room. English Cooking. Lift. Baths. Smoking Room. Parlour.
Best Situation, in the most elegant quarter of the Town.
TSext the Opera. Near the English Church.
18d2.
MtmRArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
55
VIENNA.
iiiii mi
I. EABNTHNEBRING, 9.
FIBST-CLASS HOTEL.— SPLENDID SITUATION,
The most agreeable habitation which Vienna can offer
to Foreigners. All modem comfort combined with moderate
oharges. Specially patronized by English and American
Families. 800 elegantly famished Booms, from 1 florin;
Apartments, from 6 florins upwards. Magnificent Dining
Saloons ; Bestaurant Saloon ; Gonversation, Smoking, Beading,
and Ladies' Drawing Booms.
SXCEXAEVT COOKZWO.
Dinners and Suppers a la Carte or at fixed prices.
Bath Booms. Eydraulio Lift;. Telephone. Eleotrio Light.
OMNIBUS TO AND FROM THE STATION
Arrangements made with Families Wintering in Vienna.
SARG'S KALODONT
Aromatic Glycerine Tooth Cream,
(Hegistered Trada Mark.)
TUBB8.
A Ferfeot Lnzury— IndlspensaUe to All— A Boon
to Totuists— Imxiroyes the Teeth and Onms.
fioli INmkfaetmrtrt and Iw««itorf :—
F. A. SAR6S, SOHN & Co., Ylenna,
Perfumers to the Austrian Oourt.
(Inventor of the genuine Glycerine Soap) anno 1868.)
'Where /or Barg'e KalodonL
lept by aU Pharmaciee thremghoia the WoM,
Pleaee a»k etertmhere /or Barg'e KalodonL
WIESBADEN.
HOTEL BELLE VUE.
JFinST-CLASS HOTEL, FACING TJBEE FAMK,
It has recently been enlarged and newly re-furnished. Excellent Kitchen.
LABGE STOCK OF CHOICE WINES.
PEHMOIir. SATH. TEIiEPKOHS,
GOOD TROUT FISHING FEEE FOR THE GUESTS OF THE HOTEL.
VICTOR KLBEBLATT, Proprietor.
56 MUBRArS EANP300J( ADYEfirmfi' Kitf,
WIESBADEN.
ENGLISCHER HOF AND BATHS.
WKUmT-4!IsAmS HOVBi;., OH VHS KJftAJrJEPi:.ATS,
Qppoflte tbe Koolilivnumen.
MIN&RAL WATER DIRECTLY FROM THE tPRlNQ THE "KOCHBRUNMEH.'
READING AND SMOKING JiOOMS
Urr WITH ICYgBT P088IBLB BAFBTr. MODKBATK 0HABGK8. J. JACOB i PrcgHeltr
WIESBADEN.
FOUR SEASONS HOTEL.
(HOTBL "YUER JAHBE9ZBETI|^.")
QCOUPIES the FINEST POSITION ia the place opawsite the
KQRSAAL Theatre and Park. Baths supplied from the Ifot Sprliigp. Comfortable.
Beasonable Prices. HydrauUc Lifts. W. ZAl^, Proprietor.
^ ' ^ WIESBADEN.
HOTEL AVJD BABHAUS VICTORIA.
FIBST- GLASS HOTEL, beautifuUy situated oppoeite the Stations.
Entirely renovated. F^yate Kinml Spring. Pension all the year
ronnd. Btydraulio Lift. BQ^CWmeaUTH ^BOS., Pn^jrletora.
WIESBADEN. '
ROSE HOTEL AND BATH HOUSE.
SPLENDID Fir^-Olaai Establid^eDt, snizounded by iffcs own large
Gardem^ best situation, opposite the Promenades and the Park. An elegant Bath-
Hoiue MttoiDiiiMl, supplied with mineral Water direct from tb^ prtpoljMl hob ^ring
(the Kochbrnnoen). Drawing. Beading, Sm,oking and BiUiAid-BoomB. TaUe ifJBLftto st
One and Six o'clock. Hjdranl^ lift.
H. HAEgPNEB.
HOTEL KLUMPP,
Formerly SOT^UL D^ L'OTTBS.
Mb. W. KLUMPP, Pbopbibtob.
THJ3 First-Class Hotel, oontaimiig 45 Saloons and 235 Bedrooms, with a separate
Breakfest and new Beading and Cenyersation Rooms, as wdl as a Smoking
Saloon, and a very extensiye and el^pmt Dining Boom ; an aitificial Garden oyer the
riyer ; is beautifnlly sitoated in connection with the old and new Bath Buildings
and ConversaticHi House, and in the immediate yicinity of the Promenade and the
New Colonnade. It is celebisted for its elegant and comfortahlA apartments, .good
Cuisine and CeUar,4tnd desenres its wids'spread reputation as^ ffa^lent Hotel.
Table d'Hdte at 6ne and Fiye o'clock. Breakfasts and Suppers ^ la carte.
Exchange Office. Correspondent of the principal Banking-houses of London for
the payment of Circular Notes and Letters of Credit. Omnibuses of the Hotel to
and finom each l^rain. Fine Private Carriages whan requested. Wasm and Cold
Baths in the Hotel. Reduced Prices for Rocsns in the inqpj^s of May,
September and October.
EXCGXiX.I»7T 4U?COMMOnAjriON.
A ^9 2
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
57
WIESBADEN.
HOTEL ET BAINS DE NASSAU
(NAaSAUBK UOF.)
Messrs. GOETZ BBOTHEBS, Proprietors.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL of old and good reputation, opposite the
Curbaus, C!olonnades, Parks, and next the Theatre. Splendid Dining and Reading
Hoonia. Table d'Hdte at One and Five o'clock. Mineral Baths from private Hot Spring.
HOTEL ViYl A NASSAU.
Annexe of the Hotrl db Nassau. Proprietors also Messrs. (Jobtz Bsothrrs.
L-^INEST FAMILY HOTEL in Town, with all Modern Comfort, in
*• beautiful situation next the Hot Springs, Theatre, Cnrhans. Colonnades, etc.
ZERMATT.
SEILER'S GRAND HOTELS.
Open 15th May to 30th October.
Hotel Riffelalp.
Hotel Monte Rosa.
Hotel Mont Cervln.
Hotel Zermatterhof.
Hotel Riffelhaus.
Hotel Schwarz See,
ZU RICH
HOTEL BAUR AU LAC.
FIKST- CLASS HOTEL. BEST SITUATION.
BEAUTIFUL GARDEN. HYDRAULIC LIFT.
ELECTRIC LIGHT IN EVERY ROOM.
PATRONIZED BY ENGLISH AND AMERICAN FAMILIES.
Not to be confounded with Hotel Banr (in the Town).
Proprietor, C. KRACHT.
MODERN LANGUAGES.
For the acquisition of Languages nothing is more important than a
good groundwork.
DR. WM. SMITH'S PRINCIPIA LATINA
having stood the test of 80 years, and having enjoyed on unpre-
cedented success, the same system has now been applied to French,
Gherman, and Italian.
■■>• -^-'S.*-
For full particulara apply to the Pvhlisherf
JOHN MURRAY, Albemarle Street.
58 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 1892.
SOUTH EASTERN BAILWAY
BOYAL 31 AIL & SEA ROVTES.
TER GONTINEHTAL 8ERYIGE8 DAILY
Vil.
FOLKESTONE & BOULOGNE, DOVER & OSTEND.
LONDON AND PARIS
IN Ta HOURS.
From ChariDff Cross and Paris respectively at 10 a.m.
OHARtNa CROSS 6t\..^
GANNON BTRBBT...r*Pj
PARIS arr..
a.m.
8.20
6.36
a.m.
•10.0
6.47
a.m.
fll.O
7.0
p.m.
aS.O
10.47
p.ia.
B8.16
a.m.
6.60
* VU Folkestone and Boulogne. f Special Saloon Cars, American Type.
A. Clnb 'lYain Services, and Cannon Street dep. 2.25 p.m.
B. 3rd Class London, Paris, and Brussels.
SPECIAL CLUB TRAIN, sbS^^Is
ALSO
Cannes, Nice, and the Riviera
BV
MICE A1V1» HKI^ITKRRAWKAIV kxpress.
Special Saloon Cars and Steamers, and the Carriage firom Calais
running through to destination without entering Paris.
1st and 2nd Glass to BRUSSELS, COLOGNE, &c.
3rd Class Tlcksts Issusd by
NIGHT MAIL TRAINS TO PARIS AND BRUSSELS.
Throuirh Tickets and Bagriraffe reeristered.
Full particulars in Continental Time Books, to be had on application at Enquiry
Offices, Cbarlng Cross and Cannon Street Stations.
MYIiBS FBNTON,
London Bridge Station, 1892. GeneraJL Managtr.
}
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February, 1892.
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