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■ A
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HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS
I
IN
IRELAND.
WITH TRAVELLING MAPS.
SECOND EDITION REVISED.
LONDON:
JOHN MUEBAY, ALBEMABLE STBEET.
1866.
The iHght of Tramlation U reserved.
/
v7: i^'^ !^'.\ ^''-K'^i
LONDON : FKOMTSO BY W. CL0WB8 AND SONS, STAMFOBD STBBXT,
AND CHABINa 0KOS8.
PREFACE.
The Editor has endeavoured by personal visits and research
to make this Handbook as trustworthy as possible. He takes
this opportunity of offering his thanks to his many Mends in
Ireland for the help, co-operation, and hospitality so kindly
afforded him during the progress of the woik. He would also
recommend the proprietors of Hotels, with a few exceptions^
to offer more inducements to the tourist by an improved
organisation of their establishments, particularly in the mat-
ter of cleanliness.
He will feel obliged for any reliable corrections, altera-
tions, or additions, and requests that they may be sent to
him, to the care of the Publisher, 60, Albemarle Street,
London.
The Teavelling Map of Ireland, in two sheets, attached
to this work, has been most carefully compiled by Mr.
Stanford; and it is hoped will be found more complete and
useful for its purpose than any other, on the score of clearness
and correctness.
An elaborate Plan of KiUamey, on a large scale, will be
found at the end of the Introduction.
Although the following extract from a leader in the Times
did not give rise to the Handbook for Ireland, which was nearly
printed at the time it appeared, it furnishes at least a justifi-
cation for such a guide-book, in pointing out how great attpac-
a 2
vi Preface,
tions for travellers and visitors Ireland possesses, and how
little they have hitherto been explored.
Extract from the * Times/ Feb, 29, 1864.
" There is nothing in these isles more heautiful and more picturesque
than the south and west of Ireland. They who know the fairest portions
of Europe still find in Ireland that which they have seen nowhere else,
and which has charms all its own. One might suppose the island just
risen from the sea, and newly beamed on by the skies— as if sea and land
were there first parting, and the spirit of light and order beginning its
work ; such is the infinite confusion of surge and beach, bay, headland,
river, lake, grass ; of land and sea, sunshine in showers, and rainbow
over all. Thackeray doubted, and any one may doubt, whether there is
in all the earth a grander view than that over Westport to Clew Bay.
But the whole coast west and south, indeed all round the island, has
beauties that many a travelled Englishman has not the least conception of.
The time will come when the annual stream of tourists will lead the
way, and when wealthy Englishmen, one after another, in rapid succes-
sion, will seize the fairest spots, and fix here their summer quarters.
They will not be practically further from London than the many seats
of our nobility in the North-Midland counties were thirty years ago.
Eighteen hours will even now take the Londoner to the Atlantic shore,
and twenty will soon carry him to the furthest promontory of the island.
There are those who will not welcome such a change upon the spirit of
that scene ; but if we see in the beauty of Ireland even a surer heritage
than in hidden mine or fertile soil, why may we not hope that it will
again cover her land with pleasant homes, and a busy, contented, and
increasing people, such as we see in many other regions with nothing
but their beauty and salubrity to recommend them ?"
May, 18e(S»
CONTENTS.
Introduction.
PAOB
ix
ROUTES.
*«* The names of places are printed In italics only In those roates where the plaoet ar«
described*
ROUTE PAGE
1. Holyhead to Kingstown and
Dublin 2
2. Dublin to Drogheda and Dun-
dalk 19
3. Dundalk to Belfast .... 30
4. Kewry to Bel&st, through
Rostrevor and Doionpatrick , 38
5. Belfast to Donaghadee . . . 47
6. Dundalk to Enniskillen and
Sligo 54
7. EnniskiUen to Derry, by Omagh 61
8. /S7^o to Strabane, through
JBallyshannon and Donegal , 70
9. Enniskillen to PettigoCy Done-
gal, and Killyhegs .... 80
10. Strabane to Zetterkenny,
Gweedore, Danglow, Ardara,
andKillybegs 85
11. Londonderry to Gweedore,
through Dunfanaghy ... 93
12. Londonderry to Belfast, by the
Northern Counties Railway . 99
13. Coleraine to Belfast, by Port"
rush, the Giants^ Cattseway,
and Ballycastle .... 106
14. Dublin to Mullingar, Athlone,
Baltinasloe, and Gal way . .119
15. Edenderry and Enfield to
Droghe(k, through Trim and
Navan 129
16. Drogheda to Navan, Kells, and
Cavan, by Rail .... 142
17. MuUingar to Portadown,
through Cavan and Armagh 147
18. Mullingar to Sligo, through
Longford, Carrick-on-Shoai'
non, and Boyle 152
ROUTE PAGE
19. Athlone to Boscommon, Castle*
reagh, Ballina, and Belmutlet 1 59
20. Oalway to Clifden, through
OughterardeRudfiallynahinch 164
21. Gal way to Ballinrobe and West-
port 180
22. Clifden to Leenane, Westport,
and Sligo 187
23. Dublin to Wexford, through
Wicklow, ArkloWf and EnniS"
corthy ....... 199
24. Dublin to Rathdrum and Ark-
low. — Tour through Wicklow 207
25. Dublin to Cork, by Gt. South-
ern and Western Railway . 219
26. Dublin to Carlow, Kilkenny,
and Waterford, by Rail . . 239
27. Kilkenny to Athenry, through
Parsonstown and Loughrea , 251
28. Wexford to Cork, through
Waterford, Dungarvan, and
Toaghal 254
29. Toughal to Cahir, through
Lismore and Fermoy . . ,266
30. Limerick to Waterford . . .271
3 1 . Mallow to Killamey and Tralee.
The Lake op Killarney . 277
32. Limerick to Tralee .... 295
33. Limerick to Boyle, through
Ennis and Tuam .... 306
34. The Shannon, from Atlilone to
Limerick 317
35. Killamey to Valentia and
Kenmare 324
36. Cork to Kenmare, vid Bandon,
Bantry, and Glengarriff . .331
37. Cork to Bantry, vi& Macroom . 339
Index
349
INTRODUCTION.
PAGE
I. Physical Geoqbapht ix
II. Geology xxiv
III. Points of Interest fob the Geologist and Botanist xxxiii
rv. Industrial Besoubces xxxiv
V. Travelling View .. .. •.. .. xl
VI. Antiquities .. .. xlvi
VII. Places of Interest Iviii
VIII. Skeleton Boutes Ixiv
IX. Glossary of Irish Words Ixix
I. Physical Geogbaphy.
Ireland is one of the most singular countries as to physical composition ;
for whereas the usual arrangement of mountains is more or less in the
interior, in this, case it is the reverse, the ranges for the* most part
constituting a l)elt or rim all around the seaboard edge, leaving the
basin of the interior comparatively level. It must ngt, however, be
inferred that there are no considerable heights in the interior, but
merely that the general law is stated which seems to prevail over the
country. It will be advisable to take the four great divisions of
Ulster, Leinster, Connaught, and Munster, and describe them seriatim,
1. tflster, — In the county of Down is some of the finest sceneiy in
Ireland. Its S. boundary is the Bay of Carlingford and the Newry Biver,
a considerable portion of the district being occupied with the ranges of the
Mourne Mountains, which, commencing to the W. of Newry and Bath-
friland, speedily attain a great height in the neighbourhood of Kostrevor,
Newcastle, and Bryansford. Slieve Donard and Slieve Bingian are the two
most lofty eminences, although there are a great number of peaks very
little inferior in height. The rivers which take their rise here vary accord-
ing to their positions. Those on the precipitous or seaward side are rapid
and insignificant, such as the Shimna, which runs through ToUymore
Park, and falls into the sea at Newcastle, and the Causeway Water at
Greencastle. But the high table-lands on the N. and N.E. give birth
to the Clanrye, which runs past Newry; and the Bann, one of the
finest and most economically important rivers in the country. Its upper
X 1. Physical Geography, Introci.
course is past Hilltown and Baubridge to PoFtadown, where it falls
into the waters of Lough Neagh, the lower section belonging entirely to
another district. The next range to the N. is in the neighbourhood of
Ballynahinch, extending S. from thence towards Castlewellan. Slieve
Oroob is the highest point. From its S.E. flanks rise the Quoil, whicli
empties itself, after a short career, near Downpatrick, and a few minor
streams flowing in or near Ihiudmm. From the northern face of Slieve
Croob issues the Lagan, which, after a roundabout course past Dromore,
Moira, and Lisbum, finally discharges itself into Belfast Lough, at
Belfast. The district between Down and the Strangford Lough, although
bleak and elevated, has no hills worth mentioning; neither has the
peninsula of Ards, which extends from Portaferry to Donaghadee.
There is aline of rather striking hills extending from Belfast to Newtown
Ards, to the N. of the rly. ; and of these," Scrabo and Carngaven are fea-
tures in the landscape, more from their isolation than intrinsic height.
The district between Newry, Portadown, and Lisbum consists of un-
dulating ground, frequently rising to a considerably elevated table-
land; but from Moira to Lisburn, to the W. of the rly., a chain
of hills runs N., with little interruptioil, past Belfast, Carrickfergus,
and Lame, where they gradually subside. Divis and Cave Hill, over-
looking Belfast and Duncrue, near Carrickfergus, are the principal
heights, gradually declining on the W. towards Lough Neagh, but on
the E. offering very steep elevations seawards. The intermption at
Lame is, however, only for the breadth of a single valley, for on the N.
and N.W. the mountains rise still more suddenly and steeply, forming
the lofty range of chalk that extends past Glenarm to Cushendall and
Ballycastle, and is only bounded W. and S. by the rly. to Ballymena
and Coleraine, and on the E. by the picturesque terrace-road from
Glenarm to Ballycastle. This long r-aoge is in its turn subdivided into
groups by small river valleys, having a general direction towards the
great basin of Lough Neagh, which drains the whole of this district, the
streams that flow into the sea being little more than cataracts, from
the sudden escarpments that the ranges present on this side.
Between Lame and Glenarm are Agnew's U illy 1558 ft., and Lough
Duff, 1262 ft., the group to the N^ of Glenarm being separated by the
Glenarm brook on the N.E., and the Braid river, a tributary of the
Main, on the S.W. Overlooking Cushendall and Waterfoot are Sliev-
ane, 1782 ft., and Trostan, 1817 ft., on whose western slopes rises the
Main, a very considerable stream, that drains the district of Ballymena,
and joins Lough Neagh at Kandalstown, being separated on the W.
irom the valley of the Bann by a long, though not lofty, range of high
ground. To the N. of these is the Slieveanorra range, which contributes
the Glendun stream to the sea at Cushendun, and the Bush, that flows
in the opposite direction towards Bushmills ; and from this point the
hills begin to diminish in elevation, the principal one being Knocklayd,
1695 ft., in the neighbourhood of Ballycastle, although the whole
country between this and Coleraine consists of high table-land, with
magnificent escarped cliffs along the coast from Fairhead to the Giants'
fntrod. I. Physical Geogfajphy. Xi
Causeway and Portrusb, where the great river-valley of the Baun
forms a marked line of demarcation. In fact, to speak broadly, we may
look upon the Bann, from its rise near Hill town, in the Moume Moun-
tains, to its termination at Coleraine, as the physical boundary of the N.E.
portion of Ireland. The next great mountain district may be defined as
lying between the Bann and the Foyle, and bounded on the S. by the
rly. from Omagh to Dungannon. A study of the map of Ireland will
show that the arrangement of this important group is in the shape of
two sides of a square, with rounded comers, connected with lesser ranges
both within and outside the square. The principal chain commences
between the valley of the Bann and the Roe, at the sea-shore ; so close,
indeed, that the Londonderry and Coleraine rly. is tunnelled through
them. The hills of M*Gilligan, Benyevenagh, Keady, and Donald Hill,
overlooking Newtown Limavaddy, are all extremely interesting, both
from their marked contour and their geological formation ; they follow
the valley of the Roe, attaining at Benbradagh, near Dimgiven, the
height of 1500 ft. Between Cungiven and Draperatown, near the
source of the Roe, this lofty chain suddenly changes its direction to run
E. and W. The southern chain is grouped together under the name of the
Sperrin Mountains, which run with little interruption as far as the Foyle,
at Strabane, and have a fine southern escarpment ; while on the N. the
decline is much more gradual, and several important rivers, such as the
Roe and the Faughan, have their watershed. The Sperrin Mountains
rise to considerable heights, as Muinard, 2061 ft. ; Sawel, 2240 ft. ; and
Straw Moimtains, 2088 ft. The district inside the square, between the
rly. and the sea, is principally undulating table-land, occasionally rising
into hills of 1000 ft. in height ; while fetween Derry and Dungiven, a
defined range fills up the space between the Faughan and the Roe.
To the S. of the Sperrin Mountains, which may be r^arded as a great
backbone, we have parallel ridges, varying in height from 1000 ft. to
1500 ft., an arrangement which is repeated, though with decreasing in-
fluence, almost as far S. as Enniskillen ; and it will be noticed that the
farther we get S., the directions of the ranges have a tendency to nm
from S.W. to N.E. From Newtown Stewart a range runs parallel with
the Sperrins nearly to Draperstown, being separated there by the valley
of the Glenelly. Munterlony, 1466 ft., is the principal height. This
is separated on the S. by the Owenkillen, from the group which runs
from Omagh to Maghrafelt, and terminates near that town in Slieve
Gallion, 1730 ft. Between Omadi and Enniskillen is a large tract of
bleak elevated ground, gradu^ly culminating in a long irregular
range from Enniskillen to Ballygawley and Dungannon. To this again
succeeds a much lower chain, running from Lisnaskea to CTogher ; and
to the S. of this there is nothing to speak of, as the high grounds sub-
side into the bogs and levels of Cavan. As might be expected, the
watersheds of the various rivers follow the parallel course of these
mountains. Running N. from Omagh to the sea we have the great
draining-river of the Strule, which, with its confluents the Derg and the
Finn, l^mes first of all the Moume, and ultimately the Foyle ; and
a 3
xii I. Physical Geography, Introd.
it is into this basin that the following cross streams flow, viz. the Glenelly
and the Owenkillen at Newtown Stewart, and the Camowen at Omagh.
A fresh basin is provided, however, when we cross the high grounds near
Enniskillen, for the rivers will be observed to flow in a more southerly
direction to Lough Erne, which, like Lough Neagh, acts as the receptacle
for an enormous district. From the eastern end of the ranges just
mentioned the direction of the rivers is towards the latter lake, which
receives the Moyola, the Torrent, and the Blackwater, the latter an
important stream, rising near Clogher, and flowing thence past Augh-
nacloy, Caledon, Blackwatertown, and Moy. Before we cross the
Foyle into the mountainous regions of Donegal, we must mention a
detached group in the county of Armagh, which may be said to be in
some degree connected with the Moume Mountains. It commences
a little to the S.E. of Monaghan, and runs past Newtown Hamilton
to Newry, the rly. between Dundalk and Newry being carried through
the group, and leaving the picturesque summit of Slieve Gullion a little
to the 1. To the rt. of the line it evidently forms a continuation of
the Carlingford Mountains, although, geographically speaking, they are
in the division of Leinster. To the N. of Derry lies the district of
Innishowen, isolated from its being bounded on either side by Lough
Foyle and Lough Swilly. The mountains appear to have been grouped
very much according to the outline of the peninsula, Slieve Snaght,
2019 ft., forming a lofty central point, round which the subordinate
heights are grouped, such as Squire's Cairn, 1068 ft., near Moville, on
the E. ; Eaghthmore, 1657 ft., on the W. ; and Scalp, 1589 ft., to the S.
It is diflBcult to divide the next great mountain-ranges of the
Donegal highlands, which, in fact, comprise the remainder of Ulster,
extending from Letterkenny and Lough Swilly all the way to the
Atlantic on the W., and to Ballyshannon, with the river Erne, on
the S. If a line is drawn between Ardara and Lifibrd, roughly following
the course of the Finn, it will be perceived that the mountains to the
N. are all singularly arranged in parallel directions from N.E. to S.W.
Outliers of these ranges are noticed in the neighbourhood of Letterkenny
rising at Cark and Gregory Hill, between which is the valley of the
Swilly, to 1205 ft. and 1111 ft. To the N. of the latter are the
valley of the Lannan, flowing N.E., and the Glendowan ranges, whichy
commencing at Lough Salt Mount, 1646 ft., separate the parallel
basins of Garton and Derryveagh Loughs. Although the summits of
the Glendowan Mountains in themselves are not lofty, they have a
fine appearance from the abruptness with which they descend into the
Glenveagh valley, from the N. of which issues the Owencarrow, which
falls into the sea at Sheephaven; and from the S. the Gweebarra, a
fine salmon river, that joins the Atlantic at Doochary Bridge, after
a magnificent highland course through the Glen Laheen.
Immediately on the W. side of Glenveagh are the Derryveagh
Mountains, a magnificent range, which, rising gradually from Glen,
have their culminating points in Dooish, 2147 ft. ; Slieve Snaght,
2240 ft. ; and Crockaratarive, 1627 ft. These are separated by a bruad
Introd. I. Physical Geography. xiii
mountain glen only from the still more noble groups of Muckisb,
2197 ft. ; Agbla, 1916 ft. ; and Arrigal, 2466 ft., at once the highest
and most beautiful mountain in the N.W. of Ireland. A deep pass,
entering the vale and lakes of Dunlewy, separates Arrigal irom
Slieve Bnaght, forming one of the grandest though least known views
in all IrelMid; and from this point the mountains gradually decline,
as they border the valley of the Ckdy to Gweedore, Nevertheless, the
district to the N. of this is still elevated and hilly, and at the headland»
of the Bloody Foreland and Horn Head, rise* to 1038 ft, and 835 ft. The
next valley to the S. of the Gweebarra is that of the Finn, which rises
in the chain of mountains between Glenties and Stranorlar, near the
source of the Owenea ; but while the Finn runs to the E., to join the
Moume at Lififord, the latter river has a shorter course to the W., falling
into Loughros More Bay at Ardara. Knock lawer, Aghla, Scraigs, and
Shuraghy, are amongst the principal heights in the Finn valley, which
emerges into the open country at Stranorlar. To the S. of this valley
the hills appear to take a rather different direction from E. to W.,
occupying the whole area between Stranorlar, Ardara, and Donegal,
and extending thence through the promontory of Killybegs and Glen.
Between Stranorlar and Donegal are the Bamesmore Hills, 1491 ft.
through'which is carried the road known as Bamesmore Gap, and from
whence the range travels westward without any intennission, under the
various names cJBluestack, 2219 ft, (at the foot of which is Lough Eask) ;
Knockroe, 2211 ft. ; Binbane, 1493 ft. ; Mulmosog, Crownarard, and
Slieve League, 1972 ft., with it& magnificent mural precipices. The
streams issuing from these mountains are of necessity short and rapid, and
include the Eask, flowing in at Donegal ; the Eanymore, Corker, Bally-
doo. Oily, and Glen Rivers, all having their embouchures in Donegal Bay.
Between Donegal and Ballyshannon the country is monotonous and
bleak, though a little to the E. the chain )U8t mentioned continues,
with gradually lessening heights, to the neighbourhood of Lough Derg
and Pettigoe, extending eastward from thence to Omagh, and brought
up on the S. by the basin of Lough Erne. Between Ballyshannon on
the N. and the lakes of Melvin and Macnean on the S., the ground rises
again to a considerable height ; that on the E. terminates in very pic-
turesque escarpments overlooking Lough Erne, and extending nearly ta
near Enniskillen; and on the S. shore of Lough Melvin we enter
• 2. Tlie Division of Connaught — The district between Bundoran and
Sligo is marked by a very characteristic range of limestone hills, which
follow pretty much the contour of the coast, towards which it sweeps
down in a fine line of escarpment. The salient points are Trusk-
more, Benbulben, and King's Mountain. They do not, however, nm
quite as far as Sligo, but when over Drumcliff Bay suddenly turn round
to the E., and continue their course to Manor Hamilton and Lough
Macnean. At Belmore Mount, overlooking Enniskillen, they make an-
other sudden turn to the N., to join the high grounds of Church Hill,
that run parallel with the W. shore of Lough Erne, and thus forpa
altogether an irregular block of moimtains, diveraified with many tarns
xiv I, Physical Geographj, In trod..
and lovely streams, particularly in the neighbourhood of Manor Hamilton
and Lurgan Boy, where the river Bonet emerges from the picturesque
valley of Glenade, in its course southwards to Lough Gill.
To the S. of the road leading from Manor Hamilton to Enniskillen
the chain of limestone hills suddenly recommences with' still more
lx)ld and romantic outlines, and occupies the district between Manor
Hamilton and Lough Allen under the name of the Lackagh Hills. The
principal escarpments of the chain are to the S.W. of Enniskillen, over-
hanging Florence Court and Swanlinbar, where they trend to the S.W.,
to die out gradually in the neighbourhcfod of Drumshambo and Carrick
on Shannon. This jDortion of the range is particularly famous for con-
taining the source of the mighty Shannon, that issues from a singular
cavern or "pot" in Legmonshena. There are also many other features
characteristic of the carboniferous formation. The drainage of the I
largest portion of this block of mountain is provided for by- Lough
AUer^. which may be said to be more or less surrounded by it, particu-
larly on the N. and E. sides ; the ranges on the W., although practically
part of the same system, being known as the Bralieve Mountains, which
rise to. the height of nearly 1400 feet (Cashel and Carrow). Notwith-
standing the large area of the basin of Lough Allen, few rivers of any
size enter it, save the Shannon and the Arigna, a fact which may be
accounted, for by the proximity of the mountains to the lake. Returning
northwards to Sligo, we find it occupying an advantageous position at
the mouth of the basin of Lough Gill, which on the N. side is bounded
by the outUers of the limestone ranges before mentioned ; and on the S.
by the abrupt eminences of Slieve Sli^ and Slieve Daene. A most
prominent feature in Sligo landscape is the truncated cone of Knock-
narea, which occupies an isolated position overlooking Ballysadare Bay.
The next gi'cat batch of Connaught Mountains may lie defined by a
diagonal line drawn from Ballysadare to Foxford, Castlebar, and West-
port, and includes all the barren and wild district of Erris, Tyrawley,
and Burrishoole. The ranges of the Ox Mountains and Slieve Gamph
extend front Ballysadare to the neighbourhood of Foxford, where they
are rather suddenly brought up by Loughs Conn and Cullin. Their
direction i& from N.E. to S.W., and they attain a height of 1778 ft. at
Knockalongy overlooking Screen, although their average is not more
than 1200 ft.. As. they slope steeply towards the coast on the N.,
the rivers given off on that side are insignificant, the Easky, which
rvins past Dromore, being the only one worth mention ; but from the
S.E. flanks issue thei^ Owenmore, which has a northern coui*8e past
Gollooney and Ballysadare ; and the Moy, which for several miles flows
in the opposite direction, but turns sharp round to the N. near Foxford,
and becomes a tidal river at Ballina* From Killala Bay to Belmullet
oxtendri a long neries of high bleak tableland (having an average of
700 ft.) through the centre of the district running N. and S., forming a
sort of lofty ridge or backbone, which commences at Maumakeogh
with an elevation of 1243 ft., and rapidly increases as it merges into the
Nephin Beg range, a magnificent series of moimtains overlooking Black-
Introd. I. Physical. Geography. xv
sod Bay, with the island of Achill on the W., and Clew Bay with the
opposite cone of Croagh Patrick on the S. The principal heights are
Slieve Car, 2369 ft. ; Nephin Beg, 2065 ft. ; and Cushcamcarragh,
2343 ft. ; which give several small rivers flowing through the wild
district of Ballycroy into Blacksod Bay. This range is continued
westward into the peninsula of Curraun (which indeed it altogether
fills with the hill of Knockletteragh), and into the island of Achill,
that contains some of the finest mountain-cliff scenery in the W. of
Ireland ; such as the rugged mass of Slievemore, the precipices of Crog-
han, and the cliffs of Minnaun. Between Nephin Beg and Loughs
Conn and Cullin, there is the still more lofty mountain of Nephin,
2646 ft., the rounded summit of which is visible for an enormous extent
of country : and running S.W. from it towards Newport, are the hills
of Berreen-corragh, and Buckoogh, not very much inferior in height.
^Notwithstanding the large scale of these mountains, very few streams,
and these but of small size, issue from them ; some to drain into Lough
Conn ; and some, as the Newport river, into Clew Bay. To the S. of
Nephin is the parallel range of the Croaghmoyle Mountains, 3 290 ft.,
intervening between it and Castlebar.
The next great group may be said to extend from Clew Bay to Galway
Bay, and includes the principal portion of what is commonly known as
Connemara ; the boundary on the E. side being the river Ayle, that
runs from Castlebar into Lough Mask, and thence becomes the sub-
terranean Cong River, which connects the latter with Lough Corrib.
For simplifying the arrangement, this group may be subdivided
into the northern group, occupying the peninsula of Murrisk, and
bounded on the S. by the inlet of the Killaries and the Errive River.
The whole of the peninsula is occupied by a mass of mountain which
does not appear to have any definite name. The N. is principally
marked by the wonderful cone of Croagh Patrick, 2510 ft., which flings
out its shoulders E. and W, ; while in the S., rising directly up from
the Killaries, are the towering heights of Muilrea, 2688 ft., Benbury,
2610 ft, and Bengorm, 2303 ft. ; from whence a lofty line of hills
follows the N. side of the valley of the Errive almost all the way to
Westport. Between the Errive and Lough Mask is the range of the
Partry Mountains, somewhat monotonous in their outline, which, as
they approach their southern termination, become amalgamated with
the great mountain system of the Joyce country, that occupies the
northern portion of the peninsula, bounded respectively by the Killaries
iand Galway Bay.
Between the Killaries and the foot of Lough Mask, are Farrennamore,
2239 ft., and Bengorifif, 2039 ft. ; and further S., partly separating
Lough Mask from Lough Corrib, are the ranges of Benlevy and Lugna-
bricka, at the foot of which flows the Bealnabrack, separating them
from the Mamturk Mountains, and entering the arm of Lough Corrib
at Maume. This latter range, of which Shanfolagh, 2045 ft., is the
highest point, occupies the area between the valley of the Bealnabrack
and the high road from Oughterarde and Clifden, and forms one of the
xvi I. Physkdl Geography^ Introd.
most beautiful series of panoramds in that route, especially at the
junction of the cross valley of the Derryclare and Inagh Lakes. These
last separate the Mamturk Mountains from the Twelve Pins, which may
be considered as the centre of the mountain district of Connemara. Bim-
nabeola, of which Benbaun, 2395 ft,, is the loftiest summit, is a series of
12 singular peaks rising close to one another, and throwing out a
number of secondary ranges that extend for a considerable distance ;
yet, taking the Twelve Pins as a whole, we find a distinct line of demar-
cation that contributes to give an air of independence and centraliza-
tion to this magnificent group. On the N. it is bounded by the Gap
and Lake of Kylemore ; on the S. by the Lake of Ballynahinch ; and on
the E. by Loughs Inagh and Derryclare, at the foot of which is the
singular little hill of Lissoughter, forming as it were the key to this
cross-valley.
The remainder of the peninsula of which Clifden is the chief town
consists of high rocky ground, relieved by some considerable hills on the
seaward side, viz. : Pinvyle, between Ballinakill and the Killaries ; Urns-
beg, overlooking Roundstone on the S., with Cashel and Lettershanna,
between Ballynahinch and the sea. The district between the high road
to Oughterard and Galway and the sea, consisting of Connemara Proper
and lar Connaught, is nothing but a succession of lofty table-lands as
dreary and as little known as any portion of Ireland. E. Connaught
is comparatively free from mountain ranges, though it is by no means
level like the plains of Westmeath ; but consists of rocky and poor
ground, averaging from 100 ft. to 500 ft. in height. ITie range called
Kesh Corrin, 1183 ft., and Carrowkeel, extends along the W. bank of
Lough Arrow, and is there united with the Curlew Hills, over which
the road to Boyle is carried ; it is, however, merely a continuation
westward of the Fermanagh Mountains and the Bralieve Hills near
Lough Allen. A range of rather high ground is also found extending
from Claremorris to Castlereagh and Elphin \ and a second runs from
Tuam eastward, crossing the Suck to Roscommon, between which place
and Longford it rises at Slieve Baun to nearly 1000 ft. The only other
remaining mountains worth mention in Connaught are to the S. of
Loughrea, where a considerable block, called the Slieve Baughta,
occupies the interval between Gort and the western shores of Lough
Derg, extending from Portumna and Woodford to Scariflf, at which point
it crosses the boundary, and enters the co. Clare.
3. Munster, — South of Galway rise the curious bare limestone hills
of the Burren country, terminating in Black Head, and reaching a height
of about 1000 ft. These slope southwards to Liscannor and Miltown
Malbay, between which place and Ennis is the domical mountain of Slieve
Callane, 1282 ft. To the E. of these hills is a low tract with lakes
running from Ennis to Gort ; and eastward of that again rise the Slieve
Boughta Hills, the greater portion of which have been mentioned as
running into Galway alongside Lough Derg. The interval between
these two groups is watered by the Fergus, which, rising near Eilfenora,
flows past Castle Clare into the Shannon by a wide estuary.
Introd. I, Physical Geography, xvii
Between Broadford and Killaloe rises the range of the Slieve Bemagh,
separated from the Arra Mountains by the long, narrow channel of the
southern portion of Lough. Derg and the Shannon. Craig Idountain,
1729 ft. above Killaloe, is, next to Glennagalliagh, 1746, the highest
point of the Slieve Bemagh, which is continued to the S.W. nearly to
Six Mile Bridge, and separated by a narrow valley from the Cratloe Hills
that rise immediately N. of Limerick. Divided from the Arra Hills by
the valley of the Kilmastullagh River are the Silvermine Mountains,
which are themselves cut off by another valley called Glen Collos from
Mount Keeper (2278 ft.), visible for an enormous extent of country. The
Slieve Phelim Mountains, a portion of the same group, are conspicuous
features as the traveller passes along Limerick and Waterford Rly., and
keep company with him the whole distance to Limerick Junction, stretch-
ing away to the N., and occupying a very large area between Nenagh,
Tipperary, and Cashel. The greater number of the rivers that rise
amidst these heights are insignificant, and fall, after more or less mean-
dering, into the Shannon ; though the eastern slopes, which overlook
Thurles and Holy cross, send down tributaries to the Suir, which rises
N. of the Devil's Bit Mountain, and runs through Tipperary, and the
borders of Cork, Waterford, and Kilkenny, into tiie harbour of Water-
ford.
The only hills that remain to be mentioned in the county Clare con-
sist of a series of irregular groups of no great height that run parallel with
the Shannon towards Kilnish and Kilkee.
The next district may be bounded by the Shannon on the N., the
Tralee and Killamey Rly. on the S., and the Great Southern and
Western on the E. Although strictly a mountainous district, there are
no lofty ranges in it; it rather consists of extensive tablelands, ex-
tremely wild and desolate, and not of a character that affords much
attraction to the tourist. These tablelands appear to culminate in the
centre, and are known by the different names of the Stack, Clanruddery,
Mullaghareirk, and Use Mountains^ which, with their extensive con-
nections, fill up the whole area between Tarbert and Newcastle on the
N., Listowel on the W., Charleville on the E., Tralee and Kanturk on
the S. As might be expected from the large amount of country covered
by these hills, a number of rivers take their rise : the Deel and the
Maigue flowing into the Shannon ; the Geale and the Feale direct into
the Atlantic ; the Maine, which forms the estuary of Castlemaine Har-
bour ; the Blackwater, with its tributaries the Owentanglin, the Owen-
dale and the Allow, flowing eastward to Mallow and Youghal.
The peninsula of Dingle, lying to the W. of Tralee, is nothing but a
broad ridge of lofty mountains, which descend so abruptly to the sea as
to leave very little level ground. Nearest to Tralee are the Slievmish
Mountains, of which Cahirconree and Bautregann are the chief points ;
and close upon them, separated only by a mountain valley, are the
ranges of Benoskee and Connor Hill, which further W. rise into the
magnificent mountain-peaks of Brandon (3127 ft.), one of the' giants of
the West. The extreme point of the penins\ila is marked by Mount
xviii I, Physical, Geography, Ihtrod.'
Eagle, though it is probable that the high ground once extended con-
siderably farther out, as evidenced by the cliflfs of the Blasket Islands.
It is difficult to divide the next district, which includes the loftiest
mountains in Ireland and the exquisite beauties of Killamey — the
cynosure of all Irish tourists. The minuter features of the Killamey
Hills have been described in Rte. 31, so that it will be unnecessary to
recapitulate any but the broad distinctive characteristics^ To the S. of the
rly. between Mallow and Millstreet are the Bochra Mountains, which
give off streams N. and S. to the Blackwater and the Lee respectively.
Having passed Millstreet, we have the very marked ranges of Cahir-
bama (2239 ft.), and the Paps (2268 ft.), separated from Croghane by
the valley of the Flesk. Then comes Mangarton, with its magni-
ficent subordinate cliff scenery of Glen-na-Coppul and Lough Guitane,
together with Tore Mtn., at the base of which reposes Killamey, the
most exquisite of British lakes. Divided only by the Long Reach and
the basin of the Upper Lake, are the Toomies, Glena, the Purple Moun-
tain, M*Gillicuddy s Reeks, and Carrantuohill, the most lofty point in all
Ireland, offering in their river-gullies and precipices some of the finest
scenery in the whole island. As the coast is ncared towards Cahirciveen
the ranges gradually lessen in height and grandeur, although scenery
very little inferior to that of the Reeks is found in the mountains that
overhang Lough Carra. ITiese ranges with their intervening valleys
occupy the whole promontory between the bays of Dingle and Kenmare,
S. of which latter is another mountainous promontory which stretches
from the hills that suiTound Glen Flesk to Bearhaven.
Once the tourist in his travel from Millstreet has crossed the water-
shed of the Blackwater, he descends into the valley of the Flesk, which
rises in the Derrynasaggart Mountains, and cuts itself a way between the
ranges of Croghan and the Paps, to fall into the lake near the town of
Killamey. With the exception of the Laune, the main outlet of the
lake into Castlemaine Harbour, the rivers both on the K. and S. of
the peninsula are short and rapid, such as the Anagarry, the Carra, and
the Ferta or Valentia rivers on the N., with the Inny, Coomeragh,
Blackwater, and the Roughty on the S. The latter stream rises
within a short distance of the Flesk on the westem slopes of the Derry-
nasaj^gart Mountains, while from the S. and E. of the same group rise
the Lee and the Sullane, flowing in an entirely opposite direction.
Between Kenmare and Bantry the traveller crosses the other range
of mountains forming the backbone of the promontories of Bantry
and Bear. They extend in a S.W. direction to the very end of the
coast, under the names of the Caha and the Slieve Miskish Mountains,
and attain a considerable height^ rising at Hungry Hill to 2251 ft. The
same range is continued to the N.E. of Gleugarriff, and gives birth to
the Ouvane and the Gomboola — affording in its rocky fastnesses the
magnificent scenery of the Pass of Keimaneigh and the cliffs o/ Gougane
Barra. But from this point eastward the picturesque element is on the
decline, and the lofty escarpments give place to the long shoulders of
the Sheehy and Clara Hills that bound the valley of the Lee on the
'
Introd. I, Physical Geography. xix
S., and that of the Bandon on the N. To the S. of Bantry is the
district of West Carbeny, which is hilly, though not very loffcy, the
principal ranges extending in narrow ridges through the promontory
of Dunmanus, where in the neighbourhood of Skull they are 1339 ft. in
height (Mount Gabriel). The same high ground is continued eastward
to the N. of Skibbereen and Clonakilty, until it dies out in the neigh-
bourhood of the Kinsale river.
East Munster may be roughly described as that portion of the
country to the E. of the Great Southern and Western Rly., and,
although containing some very fine chains of mountains, it has not that
systematically hilly character which we have observed to prevail in
the West.
Immediately to the S. of Tipperary is the Galty range, extending
from Charleville to Cahir. On the northern side the ridge of Slieve-
namuck is thrown out fike an outwork, and is separated by the Glen of
Aherlow from the main group, which rises to the height of 3000 ft. in
sudden and grand sweeps. The finest scenery is on the southern face
overlooking Mitchelstown and the valley of the Funcheon, and contain-
ing the celebrated caves (Rte. 29). On the eastern or Cahir side, the
Galty Mtns. approach the town pretty closely, but towards the W. they
give off gradually diminishing shoulders, which, under the name of the
Ballyhoura Hills, are conspicuous in the neighbourhood of Buttevant
and Doneraile, and give birth to the Awbeg or MuUa (Rte. 25).
To the S. of Mitchelstown, and separated from the Galty range by the
broad elevated valley of the Funcheon, are the Kilworth and Knock-
mealedown Hills (2598 ft.), a noble chain that forms the northern boun-
dary of the Blackwater Talley, and constitutes the principal features of
the landscape during the sail from Youghal to Cappoquin. To the E.
of Cappoquin the hills begin to decline, but speedily rise again to form
the range of the MonavuUagh and Commeragh Mountains (2478 ft.),
tlie loftiest and most striking ranges in the county of Waterford. They
differ from the foregoing mountains in having their escarpments all
directed eastward instead of to the south.
The streams that flow to the N., such as the Nier, drain into the
Suir; but those to the S. fall direct into the sea — viz., the Colligan
at Dungarvan, the Tay at Stradbally, and the Mahon at Bonmahon.
To the S. of the Blackwater, and, in fact, between Fermoy, Rathcormack,
and Cork, there is nothing but a succession of high table-lands, occasion-
ally rising into eminences of 1000 ft., and, in the case of the Nagles
Mountains, between Fermoy and Rathcormack, to 1406 ft. This range
gives rise to the Bride, a tributary to the Blackwater.
The only remaining mountain in Munster is Slievnaman, a rounded
boss of 2364 ft. in height,, that rises in singular isolation to the N. of
Clonmel and Carrick.
4. The surface of Leinsfer may be designated as the great grazing-
ground of Ireland, and is not nearly so occupied by mountains as that
of the other three divisions.
Commencing: on the N.,. we have (I) the Carlingford ranges, that
occupy the promontory between Dundalk and Warrenpomt, and may
XX I. Physical Geography, Introd.
really be said to belong to the Moume district, together with the moun-
tainous ground through which the rly. to Newry passes. The greater
part of North Leinster consists of undulating series of hills and plains,
although towards the boimdaries of Ulster the former predominate.
Th6re is a great deal of wild, uncultivated ground to the N. of
Virginia and Lough Ramor, rising in the neighbourhood of Bailieborough
to 1116 ft., the highest point in the district. This arrangement pre-
vails as &r as Lough Sheelin and the rly. from Mullingar to Cavan,
on the rt. of which isolated groups rise to 1050 ft. Southwards
towards Mullingar, with the exception of the picturesque hills on
Lough Dereveragh, the grazing-plains of Westmeath predominate, and,
interrupted only by an occasional hillock, such as Croghan, Edenderry,
Hill of Ward, Tara, and others, stretch into the counties of Kildare on
the S.E., and to the banks of the Shannon on the W. A few miles
from Kildare are the low ranges of the Dunmnrry Hills, conspi-
cuous simply from their isolation in the plain, and from the
singular indentation called the Chair of Kildare. This range, how-
ever, is the commencement of long ridges of high ground, which run
nearly N. and S., though with a slight westward tendency, for very
many miles, even to the borders of the counties of Tipperary and Kil-
kenny. There are three of these parallel ridges, each of them forming
the boundaries of a great river-valley. To the W. are the Slieve-Bloom
Mountains, between Maryborough and Parsonstown — a fine chain,
rising to upwards of 1700 ft., and showing a very steep face to the S.E.
Towards Roscrea they decline in height, but rise again to the S. near
Templemore, this continuation being remarkable for the Devil's Bit
(1583 ft.), which is visible for a very great distance, and is an unmistakable
landmark. A few miles to the N. of it, and just 2 miles N. of the
source of the Suir, rises the Nore, which first flows northward, but soon
takes a wide sweep, and turns to the S.E. , uniting with the Barrow near
New Ross, and both flowing S. into Waterford harbour.
The second range, about 1000 ft. high, extends from Monasterevan to
Castlecomer and Kilkenny, and forms the boundary of the valley of the
Barrow, which rises on the N. slopes of the Slieve-Bloom Hills, and takes
a similar course and curve, although on a much larger scale than the
Nore. It is the lower portion of this range that forms the coal-basin
of Castlecomer, the flat table summits of which are well seen by the
traveller by rail from Carlow to Bagnalstown.
The northern course of the Barrow is through comparatively level
country, stretching eastward for some distance until brought up
by the outliers of the Wick low Mountains in the neighbourhood of
Baltinglass and Dunlavin ; but in the course of the river S. towards
Borris and Inistiogue, high grounds close in on each side, those on the E.
forming one of the loftiest ranges in Leinster. This chain commences
to the N. of Newtown Barry, and runs almost as far as New Ross in
an abrupt series of heights, viz., Mount Leinster (2610 ft.), Blackstairs
(2409 ft.), and White Mount (1259 ft,), immediately opposite which,
on the W. bank of the Barrow, is Brandon Hill (1694 ft.).
On the E. side of the Mount Leinster range is the parallel valley of
Introd. I. Physiccd Geography. xxi
the Slaney, a river not much inferior in length and volume to the Nore
or Barrow, and which rises on the skirts of Lngnaquilla, turning to the
S. near Baltinglass, and thence flowing tolerably direct past Enniscorthy
to Wexford. The picturesque district known as the Wicklow Mountains
is after all the great feature of Leinster. Commencing so near to
Dublin tbHt its southern suburbs are almost on the slopes of the hills,
they occupy a large oval area extending from the metropolis to Arklow
on the E., and to Blessington and Baltinglass on the W. The Dublin
and Carlow rly. pretty well de6ne& this western outline, for, although at
a tolerable distance from the mountains, it rarely loses sight of them.
The Wicklow Mountains have not the same parallel arrangement of the
other Irish ranges, and to this fact they probably owe a large amount of
their wild and romantic features. Beginning near Dublin with Tallaght,
the Three Rocks, and Tibradden, they gradually rise in height, up to
the lofty eminences of Kippure, 2473 ft. ; Djouce, 2384 ft. ; and War
Hill, which gives birth to the Liffey ; while close to the line of coast are
the Killiney Hills, with the isolated peaks of the Sugarloaves. To the S.
of Kippure the country becomes wilder and more elevated, until it reaches
its culminating point in Lugnaquilla, 3039 ft., one of the loftiest moun-
tains in Ireland; and from thence rapidly declines as far as Tinna-
hely. Although there is much picturesque scenery on the W. slopes of
the Wicklow Hills, particularly near Blessington, yet the E. district is
more particularly rich in scenery, and more sought after by tourists ;
and especially the valleys of the Avoca, the Vartrey, and the Dargle,
which have a short but exquisitely romantic career before they make
their exit into the sea. Between Arklow and Wexford the country is
generally low, with a few isolated hills here and there, and to the S. of
Wexford, with the exception of the Forth Mountains, there is very little
to relieve the comparative monotony of the views.
It need scarcely be added that, in this brief summary of the moun-
tain physiognomy of Ireland, only the most important chains and
groups have been mentioned, as it would take too much time, and
would be also useless, to make mention of all the smaller hills, which,
as far as they are interesting to the tourist, will be found described in
the separate routes. The following is a tabular list of the principal
heights: — „ ,
*=* Feet.
Carrantuohill Kerry 3414
Caher „ 3200
Brandon „ 3127
Lugnaquilla Wicklow 3039
GaltymcH-e Tipperary 3015
Slieve Donard Down 2796
Cahiroonree Kerry .. 2796
Mangerton „ 2756
Bautregaum „ 2713
Muilrea Mayo 2688
Nephin „ 2646
Benbury „ 2610
Mt. Leinster Wexford .. .. .. 2610
Knockmealedown Waterford 2598
xxii 1, Physical Geography, Introd.
Ooomacarra Kerry.. ^ .. .. 2542
Croagh Patrick .. .. .. Mayo 2510
Kippure WicMow 2473
Oommeragh Waterford .. .. .. 2478
Amgal DoDegal. .. .. .. 2466
Slieve Bingian Down *2449
Toomies Keny.. .. .. .. 2413
Black Stairs Wexford .. ., ., 2411
Benbaun (12 Pins) .. .. Galway .. ., ., *2395
I>ouce Wicklow 2384
Slieve Car Mayo 2369
War Hill Wicklow 2250
Slieve Naman Tipperary .. .. .. 2364
Cushcamcarragh Mayo 2343
Bencor (12 Pins) Gal^my .. .. .. 2336
Black Bocks Wicklow 2296
Berreenoorragh .. .. .. Mayo 2295
Paps Kerry 2268
Keeper Tipperary 2278
Hungry Hill Kerry 2251
Cahirbama „ 2239
Sawel Tyrone 2240
Slieve Snaght (Dunkerry) .. Donegal 2240
Bengorm Mayo 2303
Bluestack .. Donegal 2219
Lugnabricka Mayo 2193
Croghan ^ ,. „ 2192
Muckish .. ., ,r ., .. Donegti 2197
Cuilcagb Fermanagh .. .. 2188
Dooish .. ., ., .. .. Donegal 2147
Traskmore .. Sligo 2113
Straw Mt. .. Tyrone 2068
Muinard 2061
Croghan Kinsliela .. ,-, .. Wicklow 2060
Bengoriff Mayo 2039
Slieve Snaght ^ .. Donegal 2019
NephiaBeg Mayo 2065
Shanfolagh Galway 2045
Slieve League Donegal 1972
Aghla (Finn Valley) .... „ 1953
Carlingford Louth 1935
Slieve Gullion Armagh .. .. „ 1893
Aghla Donegal 1916
Trostran Antrim 1817
Mothers' Mt. (SI. PheEm) .. Tipperary 1783
Slieve Bloom , 1783
Slieveane Antrim 1782
Slieve Gamph SUgo 1778
Slieve Croob Down. 1753
Glenagalliagh Clare 1746
Craig Mtn „ 1729
Slieve Gallion Deny 1730
Benbulben Sligo 1722
Ictrod. I. Physical Geography^ xxiii
Feet
Knockletteragh Mayo .. 1715
Knocklayd .. Antrim 1695
OxMnts Sligo 1685
Raghthmore Donegal 1617
Sugarloaf Wicklow 1659
Brandon HiU Kilkenny 1644
Crockerraterive Donegal 1627
Devil's Bit Tipperary 1583
Divis Antrim 1567
Agnew'sHiU ..- 1558
King's Mtn. Sli^ 1527
Benbradagh Deny 1536
Binbane .. .. Donegal 1493
Bralieye Mtn Boscommon .. .. 1450
Munterlony Donegal 1456
Scraig's „ 1406
Nagles Waterford 1406
Mt. Gabriel Cork 1339
Oroaghmoyle Mtns. ., .. Mayo 1290
Slieve Oallane Clare 1282
Benyevenagh Derry 1260
White Mtn Wexford 1259
Mammakeogh Mayo 1243
Bochra Cork 1209
Kesh Corran Leitrim 1183
CaveHiU Down 1168
Loughanleagh Cavan 1116
Keady .. ,, \ Derry 1101
Knocknarea Sligo 1088
Bloody Foreland Donegal 1018
Before quitting the subject of superficial features, a brief mention
should be made of the hydrography of Ireland ; a subject of peculiar
importance to a country which has such vast water power at disposal,
and which is running to waste in seven cases out of ten. .From its
position in the Atlantic, Ireland is naturally subject to much rain ;
although, speaking strictly, there is not so very much more actual
rainfall than in England, but a great increase of damp, a fact to which
the extraordinarily rapid growth and bright hue of vegetation is owing.
The average quantity of rainfall is about 36 inches. The following
statistics (from Sir R, Kane) show the main arteries of drainage from
the interior of the country : —
Sq. mi1e8.|
Shannon has a total basiQ of 4544
Barrow, Nore, and Suir .. 3400
Slaney 815
Avonmore 200
Avoca: 281
Blackwater 1214
Lee 735
Bandon 228
GalwayBiver 1374
Moy 1033
Sq. miles.
Blackwater and Boyne .. 1086
Liffey, Dodder, and Tolka . . 568
Erne 1585
Foyle 1476
Bann 1266
Blackwater (Annagh) .. 526
Lagan 227
Koughty .. 475
Inny and Maine .. .♦ 511
Feale and Geale 479
xxiv n. Gedogy. Introd.
It has been calculated that, taking the average elevation of the
country to be 387 ft., there is " distributed over the surface of Ire-
land a water-power capable of acting night and day, without inter-
ruption, from the beginning to the end of the year, amounting to
1,248,849 horse-power." One of the most singular features in Ireland
are the Lakes, which in many cases assume the size and importance of
inland seas. The larger ones, which would seem to be of such inesti-
mable value with regard to inland navigation, are nevertheless practi-
cally useless from their shallow and rocky beds. As an example we
may cite the chain of lakes between Galway and Ballina, viz. : Loughs
Corrib, Mask, CuUen, and Conn, through which it was fondly hoped
that a navigable Une might be made, so as to save a large amount of
dangerous westerly coasting. Lough Erne contains in the upper lake
an area of 9278 acres, and in the lower lake of 28,000 acres, and is
mainly fed by the river of the same name. As it extends for upwards of
40 m., a good deal of accommodation might be afforded at a compara-
tively small outlay between the towns and villages on its Iwiiks;
although an outlet to the sea is completely prevented by the rapids at
Belleek and Ballyshannon.
Lough Neagh has a shore line of 66 m. in circumference, and an area
of 98,255 acres. It is fed by the Upper Bann, Maine, Blackwater, and
Six-mile Water, arid has its outlet only by the Lower Bann. The only
feature of interest lies in the river Bann, which is almost a solitary
example of extensive natural advantages being turned to good account
for economical purposes^ Loughs Allen, Rea, and Derg should better
be spoken of as broad estuaries of the Shannon, which in its latter half
is really made useful for the purposes of navigation. Lough Corrib,
which occupies a large portion of the co. of Galway, has been of late years
turned to some account in that way, and a considerable trade developed
as far as Cong and Headford. Had the unfortunate ship-canal ever
come to anything, there is no knowing how much the interior of Mayo
would, have been benefited, and perhaps the hindrances of shallow beds
overcome, and thus the Moy and Galway rivers united. The Lakes
of KiUamey can only be viewed with the eye of an artist or an angler,
and not with any commercial intentions; were any such ever enter-
tained, it is doubtful whether the popular indignation of those dependent
on the tourist district would even allow them to be tried. In the
smaller lakes, such as Loughs Gill, Ennell, Owell, Gowna, Dereveragh,
Arrow, Gur, Cooter, Glendalough, Carra, &c., the fisherman and
tourist are the most interested, as they are not sufficiently important to
class amongst the industrial resources of Ireland.
II. Geology.
Taking into consideration the extensive area of the map of Ireland,
we may feel somewhat surprised at the comparative sameness and regu-
larity of the strata. The great central plain previously alluded to is
in fact composed for the most part of carboniferous limestone surrounded
Introd. n. Gedogy. xxv
on all sides by elevated ground belonging to the older rocks. The more
recent formations of the Gainozoic and Mesozoic periods are but scantily
represented.
1. The former or' Tertiary group consist of clays of the Pleis-
tocene era, and are usually foimd on somewhat elevated positions bor-
dering the coast. The localities where they have been noticed are on
the shores of Belfast Lough, a good example being visible near the
Belfast Waterworks ; also along the S. E. margin of Lough Neagh,
between Washing Bay in the co. of Tyrone and Sendy Bay in the co.
of Antrim, occupying a district of 10 m. in breadth, and consisting of
alternations of clay with sand and irregular beds of lignite. Tertiary
clays (probably Pleistocene) are met with in the co. of Deny, forming
isolat(^ patches on either side the valley of the Roe, extending west-
ward as far as Muff, and southward to Dungiven. The shells which
characterise these beds consist of Turritella terebra, Cyprica islandica,
and Nucula oblonga. Elevated beds of the Pleistocene era have been
noticed along the E. coast as far as Wexford. The Basaltic plateau of
Antrim, consisting of many flows of lava (basalt often columnar) and
stratified beds of ash with lignites, &c., is certainly tertiary, probably
miocene, like the leaf-beds of Mull.
2. Cretaceous or chalk formation is exclusively limited to the N.E.
of Ireland, commencing near Lurgan and running in a narrow fringe of
belt round the coast as far as Portrush, and for the most part underlying
the igneous district of which Antrim and a large portion of Deiry are
composed.
From Portrush the chalk runs S. to the W. coast of Lough Neagh,
though occasionally interrupted by patches of limestone and yellow
sandstone. »0n the N. coast especially, the intimate connection of the
chalk, trap, and basalt is well seen ; for instance, at Ballycastle, where
they are in contact on the sea-shore W. of the harbour ; at Ballin-
toy, where ochreous trap may be observed immersed in the chalk ; on
the Portrush strand, "where a deep hollow is observed at the top
of the chalk, entirely filled by the massive overlying trap." At the
White Rocks, lumps of basalt may be observed isolated in the chalk.
" Whether the basalt in the crevices of the cliffs flowed in from above,
or was erupted from below, cannot be determined ; taking it, however,
in connexion with the isolated and imbedded lumps of very hard basalt,
it appears probable that some of the eruptions took place prior to the
induration of the chalk ; that the chalky paste was then gradually in-
durated, and afterwards pierced by later eruptions." — Portloch,
The junction of the basalt and chalk can be well studied on the road
from Portrush to Dunluce ; the basalt, which is amorphous, being seen
to rest on the drift £ints, which in their turn repose on the eroded sur-
face of the chalk proper. Between Ballintoy and Bengore Head, a
valley opens to the sea at White Park Bay, in which the lias strata
underlying the chalk are disclosed, containing ammonites and gryphites.
The same rocks are visible again at the Portrush peninsula, where they
are observed to be divided by interposed masses of greenstone, and in
xxvi n. Geology. IntrocL
fact assume the appearance of igneous rock ; but the presence of typical
fossils proves that this apparent flint slate of Portrush and the Skerries
is lias-shale, indurated by the action of trap In a state of fusion.
Westward, in the neighbourfiood of Down Hill and M*Gilligan,
the chalk is still observable at the base of the basalt cliffs, and soon
trends to the S., dipping at a small angle to the S.E. Underlying the
chalk from M*Gilligan to Dungiven, a small strip of Triassic or New
Ked sandstone is visible ; and in some of the deep valleys between
Benyevenagh and Keady the geologist can obtain a good section of chalk,
greensand, and new red, the whole capped by basalt. Passing up-
wards from the sandstone, grey indurated marls are met with forming
a link between the new red and oolite ; and these contain teeth and
scales of the following fishes : — Sauricthys apicalis, Gyrolepis Albertii,
G. tenuistriatus, Aerodus minimus ; all fossils typical of the
Rhaetic beds. E. of Ballycastle the chalk reappears together with the
beds of lias underneath ; as far as Bed Bay foims a magnificent line
of escarpment round by Garron Point, Camlough, Glenarm, Lame,
and Carrickfergus ; and is next seen capped by basalt at Cave Hill and
Divis, near Belfast. The lias beds are well exposed at Lame, and the
new red forms splendid cliffs at Waterfoot. It is also seen accom-
panying the chalk to the W. of Lough Neagh, in the neighbourhood of
Dungannon.
3. The Coal-beds of Ireland are neither of the extent nor of the
practical value that they fortunately possess in Great Britain. We may
divide them into
A, The Kilkenny and Castlecomer coal-field, an irregularly oval
basin runninsj S.W. from Carlow nearly to Cashel, that may be
roughly described as occupying the high grounds between the Nore
and the Barrow, an elevated table-land " constituting a true mineral
basin, in which the strata incline from the edge towards the centre."
The following is the general section of the coal-measure series of this
district : —
Ft. In.
Uppermost beds, about . . 12 0
Peacock coal 1 10
Intermediate beds .. .. 45 0
Stony coal .. 3 0
Intermediate beds .. .. 21 0
Three ft., or Old Colliery coal 3 0
See Oeol,
Ft. In.
Intermediate beds .. .. 180 0
Foot coal 16
Intermediate beds . . . . 300 0
Gale Hill coal 0 6
Flagstone series 650 0
Black shale series . . . . 500 0
8urv, Maps and Explan,, 136, 137.
As coal-mining has not reached a very advanced stage in Ireland, the
only beds hitherto worked have been the three uppermost, as lying
nearest the surface, the coal produced therefrom being anthracite or
smokeless coal, which contains about 96 per cent, of carbon, and is only
adapted to certain uses, such as malting. The Nore separates the
Slieve Ardagh and Tipperary coal-fields from that of Castlecomer ;
the Slieve Ardagh collieries, near Killenaule, being some of the best in
the country. — (^Oeol, Sitrv, Maps and ExpL, ll6, 155, 166.) The
Introd. n. Geology. xxvii
beds in the soutliem part of the basin, which is sometimes called the
Tipperaiy coal-field, dip at a much steeper angle, and "lie in deep
troughs, from which arises a peculiar mode of working, the shaft being
sunk in the centre of the trough, and the coal wrought by working
upwards on both sides of it." — Kane,
B, The Muuster coal-field, although extensive in area, is un-
important in results. It occupies the hilly districts in the counties
of Clare, Limerick, Cork, and Kerry, embracing all the country between
Kilfenora on the N. and Killamey on the S., and bounded inland by a
line from Kilfenora through Ennis, Foynes, Newcastle, Charleville,
and Kanturk. But with a small exception the whole of this great area
shows merely shales, often cleaved into slates, and gritstones, often
making good flagstones, the only practicable coal being in Clare, where
there are thin beds of culm, from which, however, one colliery-owner
clears his 4000?. a year. This exception is in the barony pf Duhallow,
in the neighbourhood of Kanturk and Millstreet. Here are six veins of
anthracite coal, three of which, known as the Bulk-vein, Rock- vein, and
Sweet-vein, are of tolerable thickness and have been pretty extensively
worked. " The coals of the Munster field lie in a series of troughs, the
hills usually striking from E. to W., and the strata dipping on either
side, N. and S., at considerable angles, often perpendicular." — Kane,
The coal rocks in Clare are of an estimated thickness of 3350 ft., and
consist of
Ft tak
Alternating grits, flags, and shale, with occasional seams
ofcoals 350 0
limestone band (a good horizon mark) .. ., .. .; 0 3
Grits, fls^, and shale, with thin beds of coal . . . . 2000 0
Grits and flags, about 850 0
Dark shales, highly fossiliferous 150 0
They have yielded numbers of plant-stems, together with Aviculopecten
papyraceus, Posidonomya, and Goniatites. The grits which are quar-
ried near ELilrush and Kilkee are covered in the most comphcated
manner by the tracks of marine animals.
On the Kerry side of the Shannon there is about the same thickness
of grits and shales, together with three seams of coal, viz. : Hard-seam,
Coal Hill vein, and Rock Lodge vein, which have been worked to the S. of
Glyn and Foynes. Many characteristic coal-plants and shells are to be
found at Foynes Island,
Between Ardagh, Newcastle, and Abbeyfeale, there are some thin
beds of coal which have been partially worked. The equivalent of the
Munster coal-field will be found in those beds of coal and grit, known
in South Wales as Rosser veins. — See Survey Maps and JExpl,, 131,
132, 140, 141, 142, 144.
C, The Roscommon and Leitrim coal-field differs from the preceding
in yielding bituminous coal instead of anthracite. It is crenerally known
as the Arigna basin, and occupies the hill district on either side Lough
Allen, exhibiting the crops of three veins.
[Ireland,^ ^
xxviii II. Geology. Introd.
To the W. of Lough Allen is the valley of the Arigna river, flowing
between the two hills of Kilronan, 1081 ft., and Altagowlan, 1377 ft.
At the base of the former are the Arigna Iron-works, which were
established in 1788 with every prospect of working the coal and iron-
stone of this district to advantage. After a career of 25 years the
concern failed, not from any want of material or inability to produce
good iron, but simply from getting into the hands of a parcel of dishonest
jobbers, who made the undertaking so notorious, that the very name of
Arigna became a sufficient terror to everybody who was tempted to
tiy his luck in mining enterprise.
The three veins of coal, two of which are to be found cropping out at
a considerable height of the mountains, are — ^the Upper Seam, only 8 or
9 in., and only ohservable at the summit of Slieve ni-Aran (Iron Moun-
tain) on the E. of Lough Allen ; the Top coal, 2 ft. 6 in. ; the Crow coal,
1 ft. to 3 ft. The coals in the Kilronan Mountain have been principally
worked to supply the Arigna Iron-works, from which a tramroad was
carried to the townland of Aghabehy. Both in Kilronan and Altagowlan
Mountains the beds are much disturbed by &kults ; in the former '* being
traversed by at least six faults radiating from tiie centre of the hill.
— Du Noyer,
The wonderful results of denudation may be instructively studied
here.
" In truth, there is no reason why, at one period of our geological
history, the great mass of the bituminous coal-bearing strata occurring
in England should not have extended over what is now Ireland ; bu^
strange to say,, while this store of inestimable wealth was being pre-
served in England, and covered by the New Red sandstone, and probably
Tertiary rocks, the adjoining portion of the earth's crust was beins
gradually raised from beneath the sea, and well nigh effectually denuded
of its carbonaceous covering.** — Du Noyer,
D, The Tyrone coal-field supplies bituminous coals. It is consider-
ably disturbed and contorted, and differs from the preceding coal-basins
by being partly covered over by New Red or Triassic rocks. It has
been subdivided into the Coal Island and Annahone districts, the former
containing an area of about 7000 acres, and six workable beds of
coal: —
Ft.
in. it.
8
OtolO
2
0 „ 3
4
9., 5
Ft in. ft.
Balteboy .. •• 0 9 to 3
Deny 4 6 „ 5
Gor^iaskea .. .. 2 0 „ 6
Annagher •• •
Yard
Braghaveel . . .
— thus presenting the extraordinary thickness of 22 to 32 ft. of solid
coal in a depth of 120 fathoms.
The Annahone basin is very small ; is bounded on the N. by the
carboniferous limestone, and is overlaid on the S. by the new red*
There are three beds of workable coal in it.
E. The Ballycastle field is the most singular in its geological position
and association with the basalts of the Causeway and Fairhead. In
fact, it is altogether covered over by a layer of columnar greenstone ;
Introd. n. Geology*
and were it not for the escarped precipice facing the sea, the coal wonld
probably never have been discovered. There were six beds of coal at
Murlough Bay, of which four were bituminous and two anthracite ; the
coal is now worked out, the only value of the field being now in the
ironstone. As the basalt is found lying amongst the coal, a better
locality could not be found for investigating how far the production of
anthracite is influenced by the proximity of the igneous action ; in
other words, whether the dbange is chemical or mechanical. Interesting
questions might also be raised as to the age of this coal-basin. The
Ballycastle colliery has an additional claim to notice as being the
earliest coals known and worked in Ireland, for, it is said, when the
colliers were pursuing operations in 1 770, they broke into an imcient
gallery containing primitive and rude mining implements.
4. The Carboniferous Limestone may be said to comprise half Ire-
land. Indeed, with a few exceptional patches, the whole of the great
central plain is composed of it ; and the tourist may journey across the
island from Dublin to Gralway, Mallow, or Killamey, without touching
any other formation. In parts of the carboniferous formation of
Ireland a peculiar series is interposed, which is wanting in Great Britain,
and necessitates its division into three series — Upper, Middle or Calp,
and Lower Limestone, i. We find the former constituting high and
romantic ranges in the neighbourhood of the coal-fields, viz. : to the N.
of Dungannon and Coal Island, in the mt^ificent ranges that run from
Sligo to Enniskillen and Swanlinbar, and in fact completely encircle
the Boscommon coal-field. A large area also commences at Clare-Gal way
to the N, of Galway, and extends, according to SiV Richard Griffiths's
map, in an imbroken surface to Ennis and the Shannon, bordering on
the E. the Clare field, and thence continuing southward to form a
narrow belt around the S. Munster field. A similar though broader
belt is to be found in Kilkenny and Tipperary surrounding the sand-
stones and grits of the Castlecomer and Kilkenny basins.
ii. The Calp or Middle Limestone is usually an impure earthy or
argillaceous limestone, generally black or very dark grey, frequently
containing beds of black limestone, separate by partings of black
shale. Although fossils are scarce, when compared with those found
in the Upper and Lower series, they are of the same typical character,
comprising Flustra, Cyathocrinus, Avicula, Posidonia, Leptoena, Ortho-
ceras, &c.
iii. The Lower Limestone forms the bulk of the central plain of Ire-
land, spreading to the feet of the hills of old red sandstone and other
inferior rocks, or running up the valleys between them. The Lower
Limestone is generally a good grey limestone, like that of Derbyshire
and other parts of England and Wales.
iv. Beneath the limestones there are almost always found some beds
of black shale, as in S. Wales, with their flaggy Kmestones in the upper
part, and their grits and sandstones below. These may be called the
Lower Limestone shales. They thicken out in co» Cork, and pass into
the carboniferous slate of that district.
I 2
XXX n. Geology, Introd,
5. Lying below the limestone shales is a great thickness of rock, respect-
ing which a considerable amount of discussion has prevailed amongst
Irish and English geolc^ists. By the former it is generally claimed as
the upper old red, but from the predominance of yellow or white sand-
stone is usually known (and is coloured by Sir R. Griffith) as the
yellow sandstone group, and divided by him into the subordinate
groups of carboniferous slate and yellow sandstone proper, *' The
boundary between the upper old red and the rocks below is a perfectly
arbitrary one, since they graduate quite insensibly into each other." —
Geohgical Survey, For convenience sake, therefore, it is as well to
describe them with the old red, which occupies a large area in the S. of
Ireland that may be roughly described as extending from the southern
side of the Blackwater to the coast, occasionally interrupted by a valley
of limestone, such as the Lee near Cork. N, of the Blackwater it ex-
tends to Clonmel (valley of the Suir), and forms the noble range of the
Galty Mts. near Tipperary. N. of the Suir, near Slievenaman, we find
it again running N. E. as far as Goresbridge, and crossing the valley of
the Nore between Thomastown and Inistiogue. In central Ireland it is
observed in patches to the W. of Lough Derg, forming the Slieve
Boughta Mountains, and from Killaloe running N.E. to Koscrea and
Maryborough, surrounding a patch of upper Silurian rocks in its course.
In the S.W. districts it is largely developed in the Dingle promontory,
the Reeks, and Caha Mountains, and fringing the promontories of
Kenmare and Bantry. In the Slieve Mish Mountains at Bautregaum,
near Tralee, ** the lowest beds seen are red sandstones obliquely laminated,
and about 20 0 or 300 ft. in thickness. Above them is a conglomerate
consisting of rounded pebbles, of quartz, jasper, and limestone, ce-
mented together in a base of red sand. Above the conglomerate are
more red sandstones and red slates, with occasional calcareous beds or
limestones which pass upwards into the beds of the Upper Old Red." —
Geological Survey.
The Old Red is of great thickness in the Dingle and Cahirciveen
formations, for on the S. side of the Black Glen (Killamey) a section is
obtained through part of the Glengarriflf grits and purple beds which
form the lowest series, of upwards of 5000 ft., and Mr. O'Kelly deter-
mines one section to the W. of the Blackwater of 8000 ft. These
Glengarriff grits and Dingle beds are in all probability the equivalents
of the Com and Brownstones of Breconshire and Herefordshire. The
fossils of the Old Red in Ireland are scanty, but peculiar, such as the
Anodon Jukesii, a freshwater mussel, and the Cydopteris Hibemica — a
magnificent fern, a specimen of which in full fructification was dis-.
covered near Waterford, and at Killamery, to the E. of Slievenaman.
6. The Upper Silurians are mainly confined to the S.W, district of
Kerry, commencing on the S. side of the Blackwater between Millstreet
and Mallow, and occupying the greater part of the promontories of
Bearhaven and Iveragh, with the western half of the Dingle promontory.
These beds are the representatives of the Wenlock and Ludlow beds of
Shropshire. On the shores of Lough Mask are strata which Professor
Introd. n, Oedogy^ Trxl
Melville considers to be the equivalents of the May Hill deposits — the
hase of the Silurians passing upwards into the Wenlock beds. This
district between Lough Mask and the coast contains some unusual
Silurian fossils, viz. Fortlockia subloevis, Asaphus marginatus, Harpee
megalops, &c.
The Lower Silurians are more scattered. They occupy the district
from the base of the Commeragh Mountains to Waterford, yielding
Ampyx nasutus, Phaoops Jamesii, Asterias, Favosites, &c. They
then cross the estuary, and cover most of the county of Wexford^
running northward as far as Wicklow, where the Cambrian rocks show
themselves between Eilloughter and Bray. The Lower Silurians are also
found on the slopes of the Galty Mts., in a detached portion to the E.
of Slievenaman ; and in the centre of Ireland rise from underneath the
Old Red in the Slieveboughty, Arra, Keeper, and Silvermine Mountains,
extending from the W, coast of Lough Derg to near Thurles and
Templemore. We find them again on the E. of the Southern and
Western Railway, running from Baltinglass to within a few miles of
Dublin, and only separated from the Wicklow Silurians by an exten-
sive district of granite, which commences at the sea-coast in Dublin Bay,
and stretches without intermission almost to New Ross.
In the N. of Ireland a very wide district of Lower Silurian pre-
vails, commencing a little to the N. of Longford, from whence it runs
N.E. past Cavan, Armagh, Hillsborough, to Donaghadee — its southern
boundary being a line drawn through Granard, Virginia, Kells, and
Drogheda, The only interruptions in all this long range are in the
strata of lower limestone running southward from Garrickmacross, and
the granite patches of the Moume Mountains,
The Cambrian rocks of Ireland are almost devoid of fossils, with the
exception of some obscure traces of Fucoids, some well-marked Annelid
burrows, and the zoophytes found at Bray and elsewhere, known as the
Oldhamia antiqua and radiata.
7. Seven-tenths of the N. of Ireland is composed of metamorphic or
igneous rocks. In Donegal we have large districts of granitic and meta-
mOTphic schists composing the Derryveagh and Errigal Mountains, in-
terspersed with quartz-rocks and mica-s£tes. This last is occasionally
talcose, or passes into shining slates, and embraces the southern portion
of Donegal, including the peninsula of Glen and fully one-half of the
county of Derry. The remaining half (except what is occupied by the
coal and limestone), together with Antrim, is composed of tabular trap
overlying the chalk, associated with basalt (p. xxv). With the excep-
tion of the granite masses of the Moume and the Slieve Gullion range,
followed by the quartz Cambrian rocks and greenstones of Howth and
Lambay, we have nothing but isolated traps until we reach the granites
of Killiney, which extend S.W. through Wicklow nearly as far as
New Ross. There are also several isolated trap and granite rocks
scattered through Wexford.
The S. W. of Irelajid, otherwise so intricate in its geological arrange-
ment, is mercifully free from the complications of igneous rocks, the
xxxii IL Oedlogy, Introd.
nearest point where they are found being between Limerick and Tipn
perary. A good example is seen in the basaltic cohimns of Linfield
(Rte. 30). There are also some detached traps in the central limestone
plain, as at Groghan near Bdenderry.
In the W. of Ireland ^Connemara) they are in great force. Granite
extends from Gkilway to Koundstone, and mica-slate with quartz-rocks
occupies the remainder of the country as faEu- as the Silurian^ of Lough
Mask. Mica-slate is seen on the S. coast of Clew Bay, and also forms
the greater portion <A Ballycroy and Achill.
The mountainous district of Erris is principally quartz, which
abruptly displaces the yellow sandstones and limestones that extend
hence to Sligo.
8. One of the most remarkable features in the geology of the central
plain of Ireland is the drift which may be so frequently observed occu-
pying the slopes of the valleys, and taking the form of long straight r idges.
They may be studied by the traveller from Dundalk to Newbliss* from
Dublin to Galway, and from Mallow to Killamey and Killorglin. " The
drifts of Ireland are divided by some geologists into— 1st, Clay Drift ;
2nd, Great Drift ; 3rd, Escar Drift. The last is supposed to be the
effect of eddies, as the land approached the surface. Much of Ireland
has evidently been submerged long .after the Boulder drift epoch ; and
the rounded hills of the Escar Drift, being to a certain extent stratified
quartz, must have been deposited by currents of water, and not by
glaciers or floating bergs."
A few words should be said of the botany of Ireland, not merely on
account of its peculiarity, but because that peculiarity bears in a con^.
siderable degree on the early geology of the country. The flora of Ire-
land, especially in the W. and S.W., is of an Andalusian or Iberian type,
according to the nomenclature of the late Professor Forbes, who believed
that a great continent, which connected Spain and Ireland, was formed
by the upheaval of the Miocene Tertiaries, and that this tract bore the
peculiar fauna and flora which are still met with in the Azores, Madeira.
Spain, and Ireland. For instance, the Trichomanes radicans, found at
Killamey, is only found elsewhere in the nortii of Africa, Madeira, the
West Indies, and Western Spain. The Arbutus, indigenous to Kil-
lamey, is found indigenous gdXj in N. W. Spain. The Saxifrage, oi
London Pride, of which there are six species, is confined to Ireland anc
the Spanish Mediterranean shores. The heaths, again — Erica Mac>
kayana, Mediterranea, and Daboecia, all typical heaths — are of Anda-
lusian kindred. " One of the orchis tribe, Spiranthes gemmifera, grows
upon the coast of the county of Cork, and many botanists are of opinion
that this plant is not to be found in any other portion of the world.
However, more recent observations tend to establish a relationship
between it and another species abundant in Western Europe." —
8U Jame%^% Magazine. All these facts, whether altogether tenable or
not, are unusually interesting, as throwing light on the early condition
of a large country by means of a science which is not generally suffi-
ciently studied with a view to collateral results.
'
Introd. m. Points of Interest for Geologist and Botanist.
•••
ZZXIU
The geolc^st ftbould on no account omit paying a visit to the Mn-
senm of Irish Industry in Stephen's Green before he commences his
explorations in the country, as, in addition to the specimens of rocks
and fossils that he will find there, he will be able to obtain the neces-
sary information from the officers of the Survey, who are ever ready
to advise. He should also get the small geological map of Sir B.
Griffiths, which is reduced from his large one, and only costs a few
shillings. The pamphlets of the Survey, called 'Explanations of
the Maps,' are the best guides that can be taken for Uiose districts
which are described in them, and the sheets of the map of the Geological
Survey, which are published separately, should be purchased for any
district to be closely examined. They can be obtained at the Museum,
or at Hodges and Smith's in Grafton-street.
m. Points of Interest for the Geologist.
Pleistocene beds on the W. shore of
Belfast Lough, near Belfast
Ditto at Youghal. Submerged forest
at low water.
Escars between Dondalk and New-
bliss.
Ditto Olonmacnoise.
Drift at the base of Mangerton and
in the Killamey valley.
Moraines and glacier strata in Gkip
of Dunloe.
White Rocks of Portrush.
Junction of chalk and basalt at
Dunluce.
Basalts of Giant's Causeway and
Fairhead.
Altered lias of Portmsh.
Muschelkalk strata near BelfSast.
Cave Hill quarries in chalk and
basalt.
Ditto in valleys between Benyevenagh
and Keady (New Red fishes).
Annahone and Coal Island collieries.
Bilboa ooUiery, Castlecomer. Bel-
linums found here.
Foynes Island. Coal • plants and
sheUs.
Ballycastle collieries at Murlough
Bay. Coal with and under the
basalt.
Mitehelstown, caves in lower car-
boniferous limestone.
Hills overlooking Florence Court.
Upper carbomferous limestone.
Pentremites found here.
Lough Shinny, near Rush. Posidonia
with both valves found in carboni-
ferous shales.
Hook Point, Wexford. Lower car-
boniferous limestone. Crinoids in
remarkable preservation.
Marble Arch, Ouilcagh, Enniskillen.
Cork. Lower carboniferous lime-
stoDO. Good Cephalopoda and
Gasteropoda.
Carboniferous sandstones at Ealkee.
' Tracks of marine animals.
Upper limestones of Gfdway and
Lough Corrib. Pigeon-hole at
Cong.
Knoc^area, Sligo. Upper lime-
stone.
Lough Neagh. Lignites.
LJat^Uaw near EuniRkillen. Silurian
conglomerates.
Muckioss. Yellow sandstone.
Section at Bantry Bay from Glen-
garriff grits to carb. slates.
Glengarriff grits and Purple beds.
Gap of Dunloe and the Reeks.
Flanks of Slieve Mish, Tralee. Yel-
low sandstone.
Upper Silurians, Lough Mask ; Pas-
sage from May Hill beds into
Wenlock.
Ferritor*s Cove, Dingle. GoodUppei
Silurian fossils.
Chair of Kildare. Lower SUurians.
KQnaleck, near Lough Sheelin. An-
thracite coal in Lower Silurians.
Courtown, CO. Wexford. liOwer Silu-
rians.
xxxiv rv. Industridl Resources — The Flax-plant,
In trod.
Tiamore, Waterford. Lower Silu-
rians; Bala beds.
Bray. Cambrian rocks. Oldhamia
radiata and antiqua.
Howth and Irelanas Eye. Ditto.
Eilliney. The shore of the bay, at
low water, shows yeins of granite
traversing mica schist with layers
of Stanrolite, &c.
Granites of Donegal.
Tabular traps of M'Gilligan and
Keady.
Eollamery, near Clonmel. Yellow
sandstone. OyclopterisHibemica.
For the Botanist.
Killamey, Tore, Garrantuoghal.
Portmamock.
Benvevenagh.
M'Gilligau.
Urrisbeg (Boundstone). Erica Mac-
kayana and Mediterranea.
Pass of Keimaneigh (London Pride).
Cave Hill, Belfast.
Connor Mt. \ Dingle, Sibthorpia
Brandon Mt. j Europsda.
Coast near Dundrom.
Slieve Donard range.
Dungiven, Valley of the Roe,
Hungry Hill, GlengarnC
Deyenish Island.
Dargle and Powerscouri
Muckish and Donegal hills.
Lough Gftrtan, DonegaL
Narrow Water Castle, Newry,
Slieve B&n, Rostrevor.
Colin Glen, Belfast
Lough Itoty 1
Glencree I
Benbulben, SUgo.
Lough Easke, Donegal.
Grey Abbey, Down.
Valley of the Lee, Cork. Pinguicula
grandiflora.
Muilrea Mt. Erica Mediterr.
Buiren Mt. Dryas octopetala.
IV, Iin>TTBTBIAL RESOURCES.
1. — The Flax-^lant,
Of all the articles of commerce yielded by Ireland, flax may be said
to be the most valuable, if not the staple trade ; and although the flax-
producing and linen-making area does not comprise more than a third of
Ireland, the numbers of those engaged in the trade, together with its
social features, at once stamp it as the manufacture par excellence of
the country. Although linen is mentioned in early times, it was not till
the 17th cent, that it became an article of much importance, a great
deal of encouragement having been given by Lord Strafford, the then
Lord Lieutenant, and many improvements introduced by Louis Crom-
melin, a French refugee, who settled at Lisbume. Since his day it has
considerably increased, tiiough not to the extent that might be supposed,
the number of acres that were sown in 1861 being only 147,866.
The flax-plant (Linum usitatissimum) requires a dry, loamy soil,
which is considered by some to be much impoverished by the crop.
This is, however, a mistake ; for it has been proved, that, if not grown
oftener than once in 10 years on the same soil, it is not of an exhaustive
nature.
The average yield is from 30 to 35 stones per acre, and the
average profit from 4Z. to 5Z., though it has been known under
favourable circumstances to have reached as much as 14?.
The flax-seed is sown about April, at the rate of about two bushels
In trod. rv. Industrial Resources — The Flax^plant. xxxv
to an English acre, and at a depth of an inch below the surface,
Tirhich is then gently harrowed and rolled, great care being taken
that the weeds be removed before the plant becomes too high.
The conditions of sowing depend on whether the farmer wishes
for seed or superiority of fibre. " When seed is the principal object,
the crop is sown thinly ; when fibre, on the contrary, as thickly as
can with safety be allowed, for the purpose of drawing up long tbin
stems, and gaining thereby a fine quality of fibre." — Charley. The
pulling of the stems should be done in fine weather, the next ope-
ration consisting in passing the tops of the plants through a sort of
iron comb, called a " rippler," the object of which is to remove the flax
bolls which are full of seed. The stems, bound in sheaves, are then
taken to be soaked in streams of water for from 10 to 14 days,
during which period a process of fermentation goes on, dissolving out of
1^6 stem a quantity of nitrogen and inorganic material. They are then
removed and spread lightly over a grass-field to dry. The traveller
in Ulster during the steeping and drying season is not likely to forget
it^ imless he is gifted with a nose insensible to odours, for the whole
country seems to be impregnated with the pungent and filthy smell.
After beiag taken up from the grass, the fibre is separated from the
woody portion by an operation termed " scutching,** in some districts
done by hand, and in others by machinery, consisting of "a hori-
zontal shaft with wooden blades attached, revolving and acting on the
flax vertically." In 1852 there were 956 scutching-mills at work in
the country, some by water, others by steam. The flax being now
cleaned is ready for market, and is taken by the giower to the various
towns where flax-markets are held, such as Derry, Strabane, Armagh,
Tanderagee, Monaghan, &c., where it comes into competition with Belgian
and other foreign productions. The next process is spinning, the first
operation being rough sorting, according to the different yams required ;
and secondly, ** hockling," in which the fibre is still further combed and
cleaned by the aid of machinery, which is now the agent imtil the linen
is finished. The flax is then " drawn " for the purpose of having all the
fibres equalised, and is then transferred to the spinning-jennies. The
spinning is carried on principally at Belfast, although by no means con-
fined to that city ; there are in the whole of Ireland upwards of 82
spinning-mills, containing nearly 700,000 spindles. The various locahties
are noted for different productions ; for instance — Lisbum, for damasks ;
Lurgan, for cambrics and lawns ; Armagh, for heavy linens ; Ballymena,
for light ones ; Keady, for brown and coloured goods, &c. The exports
from Belfast in 1861 amounted to 65,000,000 yards of linen, and
13,200,000 lbs. of Hnen yam and thread. "We must not forget in con-
nection with flax the important trade of sewed muslins, which gives
occupation to nearly half-a-million people ; or the manufacture of starch
from wheat, which is largely carried on at Belfast, 10 firms employing
yearly 30,(KX) quarters of wheat A vigorous effort is now being made
to extend the flax culture to the S. and W. of Ireland, wid so far seems
encouraging. Munster has now between 3000 and 4000 acres under
h 3
xxxvi IV. Indtistridl Besources — Agriculture. Introd,'
cultivation, while Kilkenny county alwie possesses over 2000. In
Gonnaught, too, notwithstanding the discontinuance of the government
grant that formerly existed, the crop has become very popular, and is
likely to be more so as the people become sensible of its value.
2. — Agriculture.
Although a dissertation on farming scarcely comes within the province
of a Handbook, a few statistics may not be uninteresting ; for, apart
from the interest necessarily excited by the prosperity or ill-success of
Lreland as a social topic, the traveller cannot £eu1 to have noticed the
extraordinary conditions of surface which are characteristic of the greater
part of the country. From inquiries made in 1862, it appears that
the quantity of land under tillage, and the number of Uve stock, had
considerably decreased; there being, in 1862, 2,552,223 acres under
cereal crops, showing a decrease of 73,734 acres from the year before.
There was a decrease of nearly the same extent in green crops, and
what is rather more serious, a decrease of more tha^ 116,000 acres
under potatoes. As a consequence, there has been a diminution in live
stock in all save the matter of pigs. But, though there appeared a de-
crease as compared with one year's produce, there was a vast increase if
we take an average of the kst 20 years ; the reason being *' that the
agriculture of Ireland as a whole is greatly advanced. Examples of
management have been extensively multiplied in all districts ; in some
locahties the farming shows universal improvement in the adoption of
alternate husbandry and stall-feeding, in draining and building, and the
management of manure! and tillage processes; while in other parts of
the country no perceptble progress has been made." An enormous
amount of good has been effected by the working of the Encumbered
Estates Court, which has disposed of lands to the amount of nearly
24,000,000?., and established a Parliamentary title over nearly 3,500,000
acres. As a consequence, a large amount of capital has been introduced
into the country, tenging in its wake all the modem improvements of
scientific farming. Of course in such an extensive area, embracing so
many geological formations and soils, every variety of agriciUtuie is
to be seen.
In Cork co. the great feature consists in dairies, from which no less than
200,000 cwts. of salt-butter are annually sold in CJork market. Thus
in this county grazing lands predominate, although there is a fair pro-
portion of tillage. The district prmcipally consists of old red sandstone,
with friable sandy loams, rented at from 18«. to 30«. per acre, and in the
limestone valleys at 40«. There are several model farms in the vicinity
of Cork, amongst which may be mentioned ttiat of Mr. St. Jc^
Jefferies, at Blarney, who &rms 2500 acres ; and tiie Duke of Devon-
shire's model £Ekrm at Lismore.
The land in co. Keny is not nearly so rich, most farms having bog
or mountain land in connexion, the value b^g estimated by the
^ coUop," equal to the maintenance of one cow ; so that ^ farm con*
Introd. IV. Industrial Eesources — Agriculture. xxxvii
tains so many ooll(^, according to its size and qualities. The wild
mountains maintain a good many sheep and cattle, of which the fur-
famed Kerry cow is a peculiar feature ; though, in consequence of the
feincy prices given by Englishmen, the true Kerry breed is very scarce.
In the lands which border the Lakes of Eillamey a good deal of fine
wheat is grown.
There is productive grass and tillage land in co. Limerick, particu*
larly along the banks of the Shannon, where the alluvial limd cdled
** carcass " is of extraordinarily rich quality, and yields 3} tons to the
acre, without flooding or manure. The best forming will be found on
LiOrd Dunraven's estate at Adare, and in the neighbourhood of Rathkeale.
Tipperary possesses grazing-lands of high quality and fertility, and
supports a large class of graziers and daiiymen. No county can show
more improvement than Galway, which supports a great number of
sheep and cattle, and has, particularly in the £. districts, some veiy
fine fonns, such as that of Mr. Pollock, near Ballinasloe (Rte. 145*
In the neighbourhood of Glifden, too, a considerable amount of improve*
ment and reclamation of barren lands has taken place.
Mayo embraces a quantity of small farms, ** exhibiting the same sloth,
waste, and poverty that characterised them generations ago." The Earl
of Lucan is the great landholder in this county, and cultivates one of
the best estates in Ireland at Castlebar.
Eoscommon is a producer of sheep and homed stock, which thrive
well on the rich grazing-lands produced by the overflowings of the
Suck and the Shannon. From hence, right through the centre
of Ireland, including Westmeath and Meath, we find the principal
grazing district, by far the greatest number and the best sort of stock
&ttening in these pastures. Westmeath contains also a certain
amount of tillage as well as grazing farms. Cavan is a butter
country, with much grass depastured by cattle, but few sheep; but
to the N. we enter quite a ihfferent character of land, Tyrone being
TOincipally ploagh«land and lea imder grazing or hay. The neat
jBnglish appearance of the farm-steadings is a great contrast to the
slovenly look of those in the W. " Both Tyrotie and Deny display
minute farming of good com«land, unadapted for permanent pasture, by
an industrious, thnfty population, mainly dependent upon flax, oats,
and potatoes, and prospering and improving under the security of tenure
obtained by peculiar ulster tenant-right."
The flax-crop, the particulars of which are detailed in pr xxx, is a
staple produce in Derry, Tyrone, Antrim, and Down, and exercises a
peculiar and characteristic influence over the husbandry of the districts.
In the wilds of Donegal a vast amount of reformation is needed amongst
the tiiinly-scattered and poor population, though a great improvement
has already been efiected by the labours of Lord George Hill in his
Qweedore estate (Rte. 10).
Along the £. coast we find that Eildare is about the best-farmed
county, and Waterford the worst ; the former containing fine tillage
land, with large, well-kept farms ; and the latter presenting wretched
xxxviii IV. Indiistrial Resources — Minerals. Introd,
small-fann husbandry, " with half-starved oat-crops, and lazy-bed
potatoes; yet with localities exhibiting great advance, where good land-
lords and considerate agents are assisting in building and draining, and
generally instructing the tenants in better modes of farming."
'* The tenure of landed property varies considerably. Formerly the
custom prevailed of granting leases, either in perpetuity, for 999 years,
pr for lives renewable for ever, with or without renewal fine. Hence
some of the owners of very large estates receive a very small share of
the actual profits. The leases commonly granted at present are for 61,
31, or 21 years, with very frequently a life or lives. Estates are of
every extent, from a very small quantity to 50,000 acres, and every
holder who has under-tenants assumes the grade and bearings of a gen-
tleman. Hence the class of respectable yeomen is scarcely known.
The cottier system, by which the occupying tenant receives a patch of
land, in part or whole payment of wages, and that of rundale, in which
a large tract is held by a number of individuals in common, are still
prevalent in places." — Thom*8 * Directory,*
S.-^Minerals.
A. Coal. — The geology of the Irish coal-fields has been explained in
p. xxvi, and it only now remains to give their statistical produce. Accord-
ing to the last Mining Records, the following is the number of colheries,
of which about one-third were not working : —
Ballycastle coal-basin .. .. 2
Tyrone „ .... 3
Leitrim „ .... 7
Castlecomer and Carlow . . 33
Munster (Slieve Ardagh) .. 15
„ (EButurk) .... 2
„ (Limerick) .. .. 7
The total produce of the coal-fields was 120,630 tons, of which 80,420
tons were anthracite. Coal-mining is, however, carried on in too desul-
tory a manner to be considered as a national branch of commerce as it is
in Great Britain, from which country, consequently, nine-tenths of the
whole supply is brought.
B. Although Turf cannot be called a mineral, yet its general substi-
tution for the purposes of coal entitles it to consideration amongst the
industrial resources of Ireland. Indeed, no tourist can help being struck
with the vast amount of turf which he sees either being cut or stacked
for drying in the inland counties, or with the universal topic of conver-
sation with respect to the turf-crop, the success or ill-success of which
brings comfort or tribulation to hundreds and thousands of poor families.
Various attempts have been made to dry and compress peat, so as to
utilise it instead of coal, and a company is working at Ballymena with
that object. The late Lord Willoughby d'Eresby and Mr. Charles
Williams paid much attention to the subject, and the latter brought
several plans into operation ; one of which was, to dry the turf and then
impregnate it with tar, by which it was rendered incapable of absorbing
more moisture, and made more calorific. Another plan was to break up
the fibre of the fresh-cut turf, and then subject it to strong hydraulic
lDf3X)d. rv. Industrial Resources — Minerals. xxxix
pressure, by which the water was driven out. This compressed peat
costs only about 58. per ton, and moreover makes a very fine coke,
the density of which is greater than that of wood charcoal.
C. Iron, — ^Although iron- ore in some shape or other is plentiful
in Ireland, iron-making is, with one exception, not carried on at all ;
a fact partly owing to the difficulty of obtaining the necessary fuel for
smelting purposes, and partly to the disrepute brought on iron-making
underta&ngs by the afl'airs of the Arigna Company (p. xxviii), which
gave a complete check to the development of the trade. The brown
hydrated oxide occurs in abundance in the Tyrone coal-field, together
with clay ironstone in the Gonuaught and Leinster fields ; in the former
being so abundant (at Arigna) as to have given the name of Slieve-ni-
aran (Iron Mountain) to one of the hills.
In the western districts of Achill and Donegal a large quantity of
b(^-iron ore is raised and shipped for Liverpool. It is valuable from
its easy fusibility, and its adaptation to fine castings.
In 1858, 1000 tons of spathose and hydrate oxide, and 2000 tons of
blackband from the Belfast district, were imported.
D. Lead is extensively diffused in Ireland, though principally worked
in the granite districts of Dublin and Wicklow, '* the veins crossing in
an oblique direction the junction of the granite with the mica slate."
The Lugganure vein is the finest in the district, having been traced for
900 fathoms, and being usually 5 ft. wide, yielding about 4 tons of galena
to the cubic fathom. The Lugganure and Glendalough mines yielded,
in 1858, 1495 tons of lead-ore and 2828 of silver-ore.
The principal mines in Ireland are at Newtownards, ca Down, the
College mines in Armagh, and some mines in Waterford ; the total
produce of ore being 2298 tons, yielding 1407 of lead. The Mining
Company of Ireland have lai^e smelting- works at Ballycorus, near Bray.
E. The Copper-mines have been divided by Sir Robert Kane into
three groups : —
1. The Wicklow groups which comprises the works at Ballymurtagh,
Tigroney, Cronebane, and Connoree (Rte. 24).
2. The Waterford group embraces the mines at Knockmahon,
Here the copper-lodes consist of quartz, and produce native copper,
sulphuret, black oxide, and grey copper-ore.
3. The Cork and Kerry group contains the Audley, Roaring Water,
Skull, Ballydehob, and the AUihies mines near Berehaven.
The ores of nearly all these mines find their way to the Swansea
smelting-houses, and yielded, in 1857, 8000 tons of ore, producing 916
tons of copper, of the value of 98,500/.
F. In addition to these staple articles of commerce, there are a few
others which are only locally important ; such as the salt-mines at Dun-
crue, near Belfast ; the gold deposits of Wicklow, at Croghan-Kinsheela
(p. 214) ; and the working and quarrying of the different rocks, such
as granite, carboniferous limestone, steatite (in Achill), &c.
G. A very valuable industrial resource has of late years been de-
veloped in the fisheries of Ireland, which are now being carried on in
a systematic manner, the result of private enterprise, assisted by the
xl V. Travelling Ftetr. Introd.
salntary legislation which has within the last few yeflurs happily come
into fashion. It is a curious fact, that during the great famine in the
west, although salmon and other fish was in abundance, and to be had
for the catching, scarce one of the starving peasantry would touch it.
Perhaps, if it had been more difficult to obtain, it would have been more
valuable. Gkilway is indebted to Mr. Ashcroft for the perseveraDoe
with which he has bred young salmon, and formed. a salmon- walk be-
tween Loughs Mask and Gorrib. The same may be said of the late
Mr. Cooper of Markree, who placed salmon-Jadders at Ballysadare, and
thus created an extremely valuable fishery. The fisheries on the Moy
at Ballina, on the Erne at Ballyshannon, on the Gweebarra at Doocharry
Bridge, on the Bann at Goleraine, and on the Shannon at Killaloe, are,
it is to be hoped, but beginnings of a profitable and eocmomical trade*
y. Tbavellinq View,
The first thing for the intending traveller in Ireland is to make up
his mind by what route he shall enter the island. He has plenty of
choice from which to select, according to his locality in the sister coun-
try, his love or horror of the sea-passage, and other circumstances.
The routes by sea are as follows : —
1. From Holyhead to Kingstown twice every day by the mail
steamers, Connaught, Ulster, Leinster, and Mtmster — four of the most
splendid and serviceable boats in any country. This is the route
patronised by ninety-nine out of a hundred tourists and travellers, from
its speed, comfort, punctuality, and short sea-passage. The distance
is only 66 m., which is almost invariably performed in four hours.
2. From Holyhead to Dublin direct is a slower though rather more
economical way of proceeding. The time occupied is about six hours,
as the steamers are more calculated for carrying cargoes than for running
at a high speed.
3. From Liverpool to Dublin the distance is 137 m., and the dura-
tion of passage 12 hours. This route cannot be recommended, except
to the traveller who has plenty of time on his hands.
4. From Stranraer TPortpatrick) to Lame is a convenient and easy
passage for those who live in the North of England and want to get to
i^e North of Ireland. The sea-passage is only 2 hours, though the
sail up the respective lochs occupies f of an hour more.* From
Lame a rly. recently opened conveys the traveller to Belfast. The
shortest steamer route, viz. from Portpatrick to Donaghadee, was
abolished when the mail station at that port was clos^. It will,
however, be no doubt re-established, now that there is direct rly. com-
munication from Belfast.
5. From Fleetwood to Belfast is a favourite route for northern
tourists, and is in connection with the Midland Rly. The distance
between the two ports is 120 m., taking 12 hours in its performance.
* This passage has been temporarily sospeuded in consequence of the trafSc being in^
•ofEicient.
Introd. ' y, TVaveUing View. xli
6. From Whitehaven to Belfast, the sea-passage is only 9 hoars, but
there is not the same amount of traveUing accommodation as there is by
the Fleetwood route.
7. From Milford Haven to Waterford a mail steamer sails daily, in
connection with the Great Western and South Wales Rlys. It is a fine
passage of about 10 hours, though one requiring smooth water for the
enjoyment of it.
8. From Bristol to Cork, Waterford, and Wexford, calling at Tenby
and Swansea. Length of passage, 18 hours.
9. From Newport and Cardiff to Cork. These last two routes are
principally for heavy traffic, although large numbers of passengers
avail themselves of the steamers from Bristol, which are well-foimd,
good sailing boats.
Through fares are in every case provided for by the London and
North- Western, Great Western, and Midland Rlys., which provide for
the passengers by the Holyhead, Milford, and Morecamb steamers
respectively. But the tourist during the summer months should by
all means provide himself with a '* tourist's ticket," which is avail-
able for one month, and is issued by the London and North-Westem
and Great Western Companies, enabling the traveller to break his
journey at all the principal places worth seeing, where he may
stay as long as he Hkes, provided he returns within the tinxe speci-
fied. This enables him to see a certain district with great economy and
precision, though, of course, it will not be of much use in a prolonged
tour. The tanff of prices, times, and arrangement of transits, can
always be found in the current * Bradshaws,' without which, together
with a 'Falconer's Irish Railway Guide,' the tourist should never
travel. The London and North-Westem tourist's ticket entitles the
holder to stop at Chester, Bangor, Holyhead, and Dublin, as Icmg as he
likes, provided he returns within the month. Fares from Euston to
the Lakes of Killamey are 115«. 1st class, 958. 2nd class, vid Holy-
head. For the Giant's Causeway, 638. and 506., vid Fleetwood ; 908.
and 708. vid Lame. For Ixmgh Erne, 968. and 768., vid Fleetwood ;
1158. and 958. vid Lame. Tourists from Dublin only can obtain
supplemental tickets for the north, or Killamey, at the offices of the
different rlys.
Ireland is becoming well su^^lied with railways, which have- already
effected incalculable good, and, as they increase, are likely to effect still
more, by bringing fresh capital into the countiy, by cneapening the
carriage of all marketable and agricultural produce, and by opening
up what were formerly wild and unfrequented districts, to the ap-
proaches of civilisation — ^breaking down the barriers of prejudice and
ignorance, and bringing the inhabitants of the two sister isles into
doser intercourse, to which even the narrow-minded rancour fostered
by party bigots must yield in course of time. The lines at present
running through the country are : —
1. The Great Southern and Westem, from Dublin to Cork, a distance
of 166 miles, embracing in its system branches to Carlow, Athlone,
Parsonstown, Nenagh, TSalee, and Fermoy, In addition this company
ilii V. Travelling View, Ihtrod.'
subsidises and works the lines of the Irish South-Eastern from Carlow
to Kilkenny and Ballywilliam ; also the direct Cork and Limerick^
from Charleville to Limerick.
2. The Midland Great Western is next in length and importance,
connecting Dublin with Galway, and intersecting Ireland right through
the centre. Its branches are to Cavan, Siigo, Clara, Tuam, and West-
port ; the last named, which starts from Athlone, belongs to the North-
em and Western Company, although worked by the Midland ; while
partly working with it, though governed by a different company, is
(3) the Dublin and Meath Railway, branching off from Clonsilla and
running to Navan and Kells.
4. The Irish North- Eastern runs from Dundalk to Enniskillen, and
from thence to Londonderry. The branches are generally short and
unimportant, viz. to Cootehill, Cavan (via Clones), Fintona, btranorlar
(via the Finn Valley), and from Omagh to Dungannon, where it meets
a branch of
5. The Ulster line, which mainly connects Belfost with Portadown,
sending off divergences from thence to Armagh, Monaghan, and Clones,
as well as to Dunganuon and Banbridge.
6. The Dublin and Drogheda rly. connects those two towns, and
gives off a branch to Howth, and one to Navan, Kells, and Oldcastle.
7. Between Drogheda and Portadown is the Dublin and Belfast
Junction, which thus completes the link between those two cities, it
has only one short branch to Banbridge.
8. From Belfast northward is the Northern Counties, which runs
partly along the coast to Londonderry, giving off branches to Carrick-
fergus, Randalstown, Newtownlimavaddy, and Portrush. Working in
connection with the Carrickfergus branch is (9) a short line to Lame,
from whence a steamer plies to Stranraer.
10. From Deny also runs the Lough S willy line to Buncrana, by which
the tourist can visit Rathmelton and the district on the shoresof the Lough.
11. The Belfast and County Down provides for the traffic to Dona-
ghadee and Downpatrick, with short subsidiary lines to Ballynahinch,
Hollywood, and Bangor.
12. While in this district we must not forget to mention the line from
Newry to Armagh, and (13) the little Warrenpoint and Newry Railway.
14. The Dublin and Wicklow lines have two rlys. out of Dublin —
one from Harcourt-street to Bray direct, the other by the coast through
Kingstown and Killarney ; the main rly. running from Bray to Wicklow
and Enniscorthy, from whence an extension is being made to Wexford.
A short branch runs from Wooden Bridge to Shillelagh.
15. The Waterford and Limerick Co. accommodates these two
cities, crossing the Southern and Western at Limerick Junction; and
the same directorate provides for the management of (16) the Waterford
and Kilkenny, (17) Limerick and Ennis, (18) Limerick and Foynes,
and (19) Limerick, Killaloe, and Nenagh lines.
20. The little Tramore Railway carries the citizens of Waterford to
their bathing-machines.
A line has just been opened frum Cork to Macroom, pas&ing throuc^ Ballinoollig,
Ibtrod V. Travelling View. xliii
The only remaining ones are (21) the Cork and Yonghal, with a
branch to Queenstown ; (22) Cork and Passage, a suburban short rail-
way of 3 miles ; and (23) the Cork and Bandon lines, the latter sending
off a branch to Kinsale.
In addition to these a large number are projected, some of which will
probably be "faits accomplis,** while the greater part will fall into oblivion.
There are some features in which Irish difler from English rlys., of
which the most striking are the enormous distances between the sta-
tions, and (in the W. and S.) the comparatively thin popxdation all
around, which makes the traveller who is accustomed to the crowded
traffic and numerous stations of the English lines wonder what there can
be in the country to support a rly. There is also an absence of mineral
trains, which are the great support of manu&cturing district lines. It
must, however, be remarked that the lines in Ireland are made much
cheaper than in England from the decreased value of the land, added
to which* the general rate of travelling is very much slower, and the
number of trains less.
The inland navigation scarcely affects the tourist one way or another,
but it would not be right to pass it over altogether on that account.
1. The Royal Canal connects the Shannon with the Irish Channel,
and is 93 m. in length, starting from Dublin, and ending at Termon-
Barry on the Shannon. The summit-level is 322 ft. above the sea, and
it is fed from Lough Owel, near Mullingar. A branch is sent off from
Killashee to Longfofll.
2. The Grand Canal also starts from Dublin, and runs to the Shannon
at Shannon Harbour, sending off branches to Ballinasloe, Naas, Athy,
Portarlington, and Kilbeggan, the total length being 160 m.*
3. The Ulster Canal connects Lough Neagh by the Blackwater with
Upper Lough Erne, passing by Monaghan and Clones.
4. Communicating with the Grand Canal at Athy is the Barrow Navi-
gation, running past Carlow, Bagenalstown, and Borris, to the sea at Boes.
5. The Boyne Navigation extends from Droeheda to Slane by the
river, and thence to Navan by canal.
6. The Newry Canal* commences at Fathom, helow Newry, and ends
at Portadown, where it joins the Bann, and so to Lough Neagh.
7. The Tyrone Navigation connects Lough Neagh by the Blackwater
with Coal Island, near Dungannon.
8. The Lagan Canal accommodates Belfast and Lisbum, and affords
a waterway to Lough Neagh.
9. The Shannon is navigable from Lough Allen to Limerick, a dis-
tance of 143 m. ; a portion of which, between Killaloe and Athlone, is
suitable for and is partly employed in the use of steamers. It is to be
regretted, however, that such an interesting route is not better
patronized by the t6urist.
10. The Lough Corrib is now well supplied with appliances, as a
steamer plies daily between Galway and Cong.
* For an aooonnt of the passage-boat on this line in former days, the tonrist should
oonsolt ' Jack Hioton.'
xliv V. Travelling View* TntrocL
11. A steamer also plies on Lough Erne between Enniskillen and
Belleek.
Where the rail has not yet penetrated, the land is well supplied with
coaches or public cars, the times and seasons of which will be found in
the monthly Rly. Guide. The Irish car is such a peculiar and charac-
teristic institution that it will not be amiss to give a brief sketch of the
author of the system, Mr. Charles Bianconi, of Longfield, near Gashel.
A native of Milan, he arrived in Ireland about 1800, and set up in
Clonmel as a {Mcture-dealer. He was early struck with the want of
accommodation that existed between the various towns of the district,
and brooded over the idea until, having saved some money, he deter-
mined to try and supply some of the deficiency by starting his first car
in 1815 between Clonmel and Cahir. The foresight and the pluck
evinced in this proceeding was wonderful in those days, when locomotion
was not the necessity that it is now, and has long ere this reaped its just
reward. Although meeting with many reverses, and — what is worse in
the trial of a new scheme — with much indifference, people gradually be-
gan to make useof this solitary conveyance, until its owner wasencouraged
to run others to Limerick and Thurles. Since then the system has taken
deep root, and, until the spread of railways, was the grand artery of
communication over all the length and brestdth of the land. A few
years ago, before the engine had knocked some of the road conveyances
off, Mr. Bianconi had in his establishment upwards of 45 double cars,
travelling over 3600 miles daily. It is satisfactory to relate that his
perseverance and spirit has been rewarded as it deserved, and that he is
still looked upon, in the character of a country gentleman, as one of
Ireland's greatest benefactors.
The greater number of the roads are serviced by cars instead of
coaches, and there is no doubt but that the long car is better suited to
tiie country than the coach. Its advantages are that it holds a great
many, in addition to a fabulous quantity of luggage that is deposited
in the well ; moreover, accidents can rarely happen on account of the
even balance afforded by the passengers ; and should such occur, the
traveller, unless he be blind or halt, can at once reach the ground with
a very moderate amount of risk. Its disadvantages are, that there are
no inside places for bad weather or delicate passengers. The following
hints are worth attending to previous to a journey on a car. Ascertain
which way the wind is blowing, if the weather is cold or likely to be bad,
and choose your side accordingly, as the tourist will' find it no slight
comfort to hear the rain beating on the other side while the well and
the luggage shelter him. Aprons are provided in the car ; at the same
time, a private waterproof apron is a great convenience; added to
which, the traveller should obtain a strap by which he may buckle
himself to the seat during night journeys, and thus go safely to sleep
without fear of being jerked forward. For seeing the view, the driver's
box is, of course, the ** post of vantage," but it is not comfortable,
and cannot be recommended for a long journey. In conclusion, a
good word should be said for the drivers of the Bianconi cars, who are,
with scarcely an exception, steady, obliging, and civil men, and plea*
Introd. V. Travelling Vkw, tLv
sant companions to boot. Indeed, it may be acknowledged with truth,
that the traveller in Ireland, as a general rule, meets with ready and
cheerful civility ; and, for the comfort of those who sit at home and
read the accounts of those imfortunate agrarian outrages, that it is a
most rare occurrence to hear of any stranger being molested in any way
— ^a fact which seems to arise more from the native poUteness of the
Irish character than from love of the Saxon. Over cross-roads and in
districts as yet unaccommodated with public conveyances, the traveller
•will seldom have difficulty in obtaining a one-horse car. Posting is much
cheaper in Ireland than in England, cars being rarely more than 6d a
mile for one person, and Sd. for two, although in some tourists' districts
the car-owners have raised their tariff rather higher. In addition to this,
there are no turnpikes to be paid — all the roads being kept (and very
well kept, too) by a county fund. Before engaging the car, particular
inquiries should be made as to the distance, and whether it is com-
puted by Irish or English miles, as in some districts they charge for
English, while in the W. and N.W. the distances are Irish. In a long
journey it makes a cousiderable difference, for 4 English statute miles
go to 3 Irish ones. All the distances in the Handbook are given in
English miles, as it is easy to calculate the difference, and, moreover,
there is a growing tendency to assimilate them to the English measure,
•which will, no doubt, soon pervade the entire country.
A few hints may be useful to the tourist. Nev^ give to beggars.
Whenever the car or coach stops, swarms of impudent mendicants rise
Tip as if by magic, and try which can excel the other in noisy whining
and falsehoods. To give to these is simply wrong, for they are mostly
b^gars by choice, and not from necessity. If work were offered to'
them, they would in all probability refuse it^— preferring to lead a life
of disgusting idleness to honest labour. The tourist may well wonder
to what defect in the social laws, or to what misplaced softrheartedness
in the hearts of the civic rulers, these intolerable nuisances owe their
continuance.
Be careful how you engage yourself in any discussion or opinion on
party, and particularly religious, subjects. The traveller will soon
find out for himself that party spirit attains a pitch which is unknown
in England ; that extreme statements are in many districts the rule
and not the exception ; and that a dispassionate and unprejudiced
ventilation of a national subject is not always to be obtained.
The social features of Ireland are unfortunately so mixed up with
political ones, that the tourist had better make his own observations on
them, and keep them to himself. He will find much to admire, espe-
cially in the hospitality and warm-heartedness which seem to be every
Irishman's birthright. He will also find some things to condemn ;
but he cannot fail to return home interested in Ireland's social pro-
gress, and with an earnest hope that she will some day thoroughly
and truly feel the real love that England has for her, and that the Celt
will come in time to consider that " repale from the Sassenach" would
be the worst thing that could happen to him.
xlvi n. Antiquities. Introd.
VI. — ANTiQinnBS.
In the matter of antiquarian remains, Ireland is a Tadmor or a
Nineveh, for throughout the length and breadth of the land, ruins of
some sort or other are scattered in melancholy profusion, aud scarce
a barony or parish but has its castle, abbey, church, round tower, or,
m^ be, still more primitive and early remains.
Under these circumstances, the traveller must not be surprised at
meeting a considerable resemblance to each other in the different ruins,
remembering that each marks an era when a particular style of building
was prevalent.
Irish antiquities cannot be divided better than has been done by
Mr. Wakeman, in his excellent little Handbook (the only fault of which
is its brevity), viz. : Pagan, Early Christian, and Anglo-Irish remains.
I. Pagan may be subdivided into —
1. Beligious —
a. SepidchrcU — such as Cromlechs, Caves, Mounds, and Cairns.
h. Memorial — Pillars, Steles, Inscribed Stones.
2. Military — Raths, Forts, &c.
a. The Cromlech^ about which there has been much discussion with
reference to its use, would appear to have been used as a sepulchral
monument in the dark ages antecedent to the Christian era ; since fre-
quent discoveries, made at different times, strongly militated against the
formerly received opinion that they were used for sacrificial purposes. A
singular feature in the cromlechs, and one which seems to have been
generally overlooked, is their usual position, overlooking or very near
to the sea ; cromlechs in the interior of the country being compara-
tively uncommon. The same peculiarity is noticeable in the crom-
lechs of North and South Wales. In Ireland there are some fine speci-
mens, though few that have not suffered from the hand of time or still
more from ruthless destruction. Amongst these may be mentioned the
cromlechs of Mount Venus, Howth, and Shanganagh, near Dublin;
Broadstone, near Ballymena; Kilclooney, near Narin, co. Donegal;
the cromlechs on island Magee and oo. Antrim, and at Enockeen, co.
Waterford.
Tumuli. — Monuments of this class abound in Ireland, from the
simple cairn, which is common, to the rare and magnificent barrow,
on which every species of barbarous ornamentation was lavished.
The line of tumuli running from Drogheda to Slane, of which New-
grange and Dowth are the principal, are in themselves worth a pilgrim-
age to see, and cannot fail to strike the beholder with astonishment at
the wonderful skill with which the interior is constructed, and with
the ingenuity and taste of the carving on the stones. The Pagan Irish
looked upon the sepulture of their kings and heroes as the most im-
portant and venerable rite. They appear to have interred the body in
both a horizontal and perpendicular position, or else to have performed
Introd* VI. Antiquities, xlvii
incremation. ''The small square stone grave, or kistvaen, containing
a single cinerary urn, placed beneath the surface of the soil and so fre-
quently exposed by the spade ; the collection of urns, apparently marking
the site of an ancient cemetery, possibly that of a battlefield ; the grassy
mound and the massive cromlech breaking the level outline of the land-
scape ; the large stone circle, or the oblong enclosure, popularly termed
•a giant's grave;' the huge temple-like barrow, with its enveloping
mound of stones or earth (the Western type of the true Oriental
pyramid) ; the simple, rude pillar-stone ; the Ogham-inscribed mono-
lith or the sculptured cross ; the wayside monument ; the horizontal
gravestone ; the stone coffin ; the modem vault or stately mausoleum ;
the carved recumbent figure in the decorated abbey, as well as the
modem tablet in the modern church, all afford abundant examples of
the use of stone materials in sepulchral and funeral rites, and evince
the piety and reverence with which the dead were regarded in Ireland
from the very earliest time." — Wil(ie*8 Catalogue of R, I, A, Of
cinerary urns, for the purpose of holding the ashes of the dead, beautiful
examples are to be seen in the Academy Museum in Dublin, ornamented
with most cunning workmanship. The usual position of these urns,
when discovered, has been in small kists or churches. The tumulus, or
mausoleum, like that at Newgrange, is of a difierent order of sepultui-e,
and consists of a large cavern, which contained one or more sarcophagi,
and were probably also the recej^tacles of treasure. The Danes wei*e
evidently of this opinion, as we read of their having broken open the
grave of Gobhan's wife at Drochat-atha, now Drogheda, a.d. 862.
Stone circles and avenues are not uncommon, and are sometimes foimd
connected with sepulchral mounds, and at others apparently isolated. In
the first case, they were evidently used for marking with greater effect
the sacred enclosure, as is the case at Kewgrange, where the circle sur-
rounds the tumulus ; in the latter case, however, it is probable that
they were used to consecrate some spot to which unusual reverence was
due from religious or judicial associations : such as the Giant's King
and the Kempe Stones ; circles and raths in Hazlewood demesne, co.
Sligo ; Beltany Hill, near Baphoe ; Slieve na Griddle, near Down-
patrick. An example of a burying-ground on a large scale will be found
at Rathcroghan, in co. Roscommon, one of the cemeteries celebrated
equally with those of the Boyne district. Detached and isolated graves,
popularly spoken of as giant's ** beds," are far from uncommon ; ex-
amples may be found at Lough Gur.
6. Memorial, — Pillars were used from the earliest times to mark the
place of interment or to commemorate some deed. In these cases they
were known as steles ; but when they were used, as in Wales, for the
purpose of boundary or division, they were called " maen-hir," long
stones. They were more generally plain, though sometimes inscribed
with the name of the person to whose memory it was erected. Of this
class are the famous Ogham stones, the elucidation of which has been
a favourite study with antiquaries.
** The Ogham alphabet consists of lines or groups of lines, variously
xlviii VI. Antiquities^ IntrocL
arranged with reference to a single stave-line or to an edge of the sob-
stance on which they are traced. The spectator looking at an upright
Ogham monument will, in general, observe groups of incised strokes of
four different kinds : — 1. Groups of lines to the left ; 2. Others to the
ri;^ht ; 3. Other longer strokes, crossing it obliquely ; and 4. Small
notches upon the edge itself. The inscriptions, in general, begin from
the bottom, and are read upwards from left to right. Almost all those
which have been deciphered present merely a proper name, with ita
patronymic, both in the genitive case. The monuments a{^)ear for the
most part to have been sepulchral in the first instance. But tliere is
reason to suppose that they were used to indicate the proprietorship
of land ; either standing as boundary stones, or buried in crypts as
evidences to be referred to in cases of dispute arising. By far the
greater number discovered in Ireland have been found in Cork and
Kerry graves."
2. Defensive cmd Social, — ^The ancient Irish lived after a very no-
madic fashion ; in the summer retiring to their **booleys,** or summer
habitations, with their flocks and herds, and in winter returning to
their entrenched villages and forts. Their houses were either of woo^
wattles, clay, or stone, and in this latter case were termed cashels, or
cabins, which, however, signifies properly the collection or enclosure d
dwellings, the houses themselves being designated as clc^hans. The
best localities for examining these remains are in West Gonnaught
(Arran Islands) and co. Kerry, particularly in the Dingle promontory.
Nor should we omit the singular stockaded islands called Orannoges,
which were always found in districts where clusters of lakes were
grouped together. From their difficulty of access, they were more
likely places to which the owner might take his plunder in security
than regular habitations. Examples may be seen in the Museum of
the Boyal Irish Academy.
The number of raths or fortified villages that still remain, notwith*
standing the thousands that must have been swept away as the im-
provements of agriculture extended over the country is something
incredible, as may be easily seen by inspecting the Ordnance map, in
which the locality of each is carefully preserved. They were always a
mound made of earth and surrounded by a breastwork, and in many
oases by a ditch as well. They varied in extent from a few perches to
more than an acre, according to the number and rank of the inhabitants.
Some of the larger raths were celebrated in the early annals of Irish
history, and were used for the accommodation of chieftains and even of
royal personages. Among this latter class are the Hills of Tara,
Tailtean, and Tlachtgha, in Meath ; Grianan of Aileach, in Donegsd ;
Emania, or Fort Navan, near Armagh, &c. ** Of the number of rattis
that we have examined, we have not in one instance known the mound
to contain a chamber : but when the work consisted merely of a circular
enclosure, excavations of a beehive form, lined with uncemented stones,
and connected by passages sufficiently large to admit a man, are not
unfrequently foimd. These chambers were probably used as places of
lotrod. .VI. Antiquities. x\ix
temporary retreat, or as storehouses for com, &c. ; the want of any
ventilation, save that derived from the narrow external entranoe,
rendering them unfit for the continued habitation of man." — Wakeman,
Specimens of these subterranean chambers are to be found at Glady, on
the Boyne, and near Navan. The dun or cathair was a more ambitious
and a purely military work, built of uncemented stones, and varying
much in the complexity and amount of defensive walls. The locale
of these works is in the west and south-west of Ireland, where they
may be seen in wonderful preservation : for example, Dunsengus and
XhiDconnor, in the Isle of Arran. " To each of these forts, call^ raths,
liases, duns, cabins, or cahirs, were attached names which with
some modifications have descended to modem times, such as Dumengus,
Dundermott, Dunmore, Dungannon, Dunboyne, Dunlavin, Dundealgan
(now Dundalk); Lismore and Listowel; Bathcormack, Rathoore,
Kathcroghan, Eathowen ; Cahir, Cahir-conlick, &c. Many of these forts
give names to townlands, which, with other topographical appellations,
have been transmitted to us for at least 2000 years.*' — Catal. qf Acad.
JUus,, by Sir W. Wilde.
As the most perfect example of a fort in Ireland, and probably in
the known world, we must recommend the tourist to visit the Staigue
Fort in oo. Kerry (Bte. 35), a model of which is to be found in the
Academy.
n. — Early Christian remains may be divided into Oratories, Hound
Towers, Churches, and Crosses.
1. The OratorieSj or " duintheach," were originally built of wood, in
contradistinction to the church or " daimhliag," a house of stone. But
although wood appears to have been the original material out of which
they were built, they were subsequently made of stone, and firom their
small size and peculiar features are among the most characteristic
of early Irish remains. The average measurement was about 15
feet in length by 10 in breadth ; and many were built without
cement. They were evidently for the private devotions of the founders,
whose cells and tombs are so frequently observed in the immediate
neighbourhood. The most singular of these are in the west and south-
west of Ireland, and are generally in sequestered and sometimes almost
inaccessible spots. Examples are found in St Senan's, at Scattery
Island ; on Bishop's Island, near Kilkee ; on Bigh Island, off Conne-
mara coast ; the very singular and beautiful oratory of St Gktllerus,
near Dingle; oratory of St. Finan Cam, on Church Island, Lough
Currane. A striking peculiarity in many of these buildings is the use of
the domed roof, formed by the gradual approximation of stones laid hori-
zontally, and closed at the top by a single stone. Dr. Fetrie is inclined
to refer to the class of '* duintheach " the larger buildings, which com-
bined the oratory and the dwelling, and which are styled ^ houses" or
'* dormitories," and usually possess an apartment or croft between the
stone roof and the carved roof of the oratory. Of such are the dor-
mitories of St Declan, at Ardmore; St. Molaise's House on Devenish ;
1 VL Antiquities. Introd,
St Ck>lomb's House at Kells ; St. Kevin's at Glendalougli ; St. Flan-
nan's at Killaloe.
2. Bound Towers have been deeply and fully discussed and illus-
trated in Dr. Petrie's admirable work * On the Origin and Uses of the
Round Towers of Ireland,' a work with which every traveller in
Ireland should provide himself, and of which the writer of this Hand-
book has largely made use. It will suffice now to give a very brief
outline of wlmt the towers were considered by different antiquaries to
have been, and what they are, with every appearance of probability,
proved not to have been.
a. They were supposed to have been erected by the Danes : a theory
originally brought forward by John Lynch, the author of * Cambrensis
Eversus, and followed by Walsh, Molyneux, and Sedgwick.
h. Their Phoenician, Persian, or Indo-Scythian origin, was advocated
warmly by Greneral Vallancey, who considered them to have been fire-
temples, — places from which to proclaim the Druidic festivals, gnomons,
or astronomical observatories. Phallic emblems, or Buddhist temples.
These opinions, embracing what is called the Pagan doctrine of ^e
Round Towers, were afterwards followed by O'Brien, Lanigan, Miss
Beaufort, and Mr. Windele.
The Christian origin and uses were successively declared to be —
a. Anchorite towers, in imitation of the pillar of St. Simon Stylites :
an opinion broached by Dean Richards, and followed by Harris, Milner,
and King.
h. Penitential prisons : a theory advocated by Dr. South.
The opinions which Dr. Petrie has so ably argued out, and which are
now generally received, are that the round towers were designed for the
double purpose of belfries and castles : for, if they had been erected for
belfries only, there would have been no necessity for making the door-
ways so small or so high from the ground ; and if they had been
intended for castles only, they need not have been so slender or so
high. The following is the summary of his results. With respect to
belfries : —
1. It is most certain that the Irish ecclesiastics had from a very
early period, in connexion with their cathedral and abbey churches,
campanilia, or detached belfries, called in the Irish annals and other
ancient authorities by the term " cloictheach " (cloiSTOAd).
2. It is equally certain that in all parts of Ireland where the Irish
language is yet retained, these towers are designated by the same term,
except in a few districts, where they are called by the synonymous
term " clogar " (clo54t), or by the term ** cuiltheach" (cilll5T5e4c),
which is only a corrupted form of " cloictheach " by a transposition of
letters very usual in modem Irish words.
3. It is also certain that no other building, either round or square,
suited to the purpose of a belfry, has ever been found in connexion
with any church of an age anterior to the 12th century, with the single
exception of the square belfry attached to a church on Inis Glothran, or
Clovin, an island in Lough Ree, and which seems to be of earlier date.
Introd, VI. Antiquities. li
4. Lastly, it is dertain that this use is assigned to them by the
imiform tradition of the whole people of Ireland, and that they are
appropriated to this use in many parts of the country even to this day.
Their intended use for castles as well as belfries must be inferred —
1. From some of the peculiarities found almost invariably in their
construction, and particularly in their small doorways placed at so great
a height from the ground : an obvious mode of securing safety which is
very common in ancient castles.
2. Many of the remaining doorways of the towers exhibit abundant
evidences of their having been provided with double doors.
3. An examination of our ancient literature tends strongly to the
conclusion that the Irish people so generally recognised this use of the
Toimd towers as a primary one, that they very rarely applied to a tower
erected for defence any other term but that of cloictheach or belfry.
4. It may be clearly inferred from several records in the Irish
annals that the towers were used for the purposes of a fety and defence.
Although history gives the foundation of a round tower in the 6th
century, Dr. Petrie shows that the majority of them were erected about
the 9th and 10th centuries ; and there is no doubt that, owing to
the destructive ravages of the Danes, the reconstruction of many
towers was rendered necessary, and that they consequently show various
styles of masonry and differences of materials, according to the times
and circumstances of their restoration. To some towers, as the Great
Tower of Clonmachnois, he ascribes a date of the 12th century.
It is needless, in this place, to give a description of the towers, as in
every locality where they are found the peculiar points of each are
given in detail.
3. Early Churches of Ireland were usually, if not always, built of
stone and lime cement, and were invariably of small size, rarely exceed-
ing 80 feet, and usually not more than 60 feet. The only exception
was in the Cathedral church of Armagh, which was 140 feet in length.
In form they are a simple quadrangle, in larger churches extending
to a second oblong which forms the chancel. The peculiar features are
the doorways and windows, the sides of which almost always incline,
and are framed with a certain amoimt of Cyclopean masonry. The
doorways are crowned by a horizontal lintel, or headed with a semi-
circular arch, which is sometimes cut out of a single stone. The roofs,
where they remain, are of exceedingly high pitch.
" In short these ancient temples are just such humble, unadorned
structures, as we might expect them to have been; but even if they
were found to exhibit less of that expression of congruity and fitness,
and more of that humbleness so characteristic of a religion not made for
the rich but for the poor and lowly, that mind is but little to be envied
which could look with apathy on the remains of national structures so
venerable for their antiquity.
The Churches of later date are extremely interesting in their archi-
tectural features, arising from the proof that anterior to the 11th cent.,
the Irish not only built decorated chs., but used a style of decoration
llreland.] c
lii VI. Antiquities. In trod.
which was generally supposed to be characteristic of the Norman period.
We see in the ornamentation of the Round Tower of Kildare — ^the
tower at Timahoe — the chs. at Bahin — some of the chs. at Glenda-
lough — the ch. of Killeshin — TeampuU Fingain at Clonraacnoise — the
ch. at Inishcalthra — ^the ch. at Freshford^— the stone-roofed ch. at Cashel
— some of the most exquisite sculpturing in the moulding of the door-
ways, the capitals of the arches, the reredos, &c. " Chevron and other
decorations, which in England are supposed to indicate the Norman
period, are commonly found ; but they are generally simple lines cut
upon the face and soffit of the arch. Pediments now appear ; and the
various mouldings and other details of doorways become rich and
striking, and in some respect bear considerable analogy to true Norman
work. The capitals frequently represent human heads, the hair of
which is interlaced with snakelike animals." — Wakeman,
4. Crosses exhibit every degree of diversity from the rude cross with-
out any ornament whatever — save, perhaps, that the upper part of the
shaft is cut in the form of a circle from which the arms and top extend
— to the elaborately sculptured crosses of the dates between the 9th and
12th cent. Many of them are valuable for two reasons; the extreme
beauty of the sculptures, and because they give an accurate representa-
tion of the costumes, ecclesiastical and military, of the Irish during tb-
9th and 10th cent., as in the case of the magnificent crosses of Monase
terboice and Glonmacnoise. Inscribed flagstones were numerous, but
have become to a great degree destroyed and defaced in the lapse of
time. They generally consist of a plain cross rudely marked on the
stone, together with the name of the person whom it is intended to me-
morialise. It is also worth notice that the priests were usually buried
with their face towards the congregation.
5. Anglo-Norman JRemains date from the time of the invasion by
the English, who may have brought into the country their own styles
of architecture, which became transplanted and acclimatised. " Certain
it is that the close of the 12th and the beginning of the 13th cent, wit-
nessed a great change in the style of architecture as applied to ecclesi-
astical edifices in Ireland ; but that this change was in consequence of
the invasion, or that the Pointed style was borrowed from or introduced
into Ireland by the English, has not been ascertained." As might be
expected, a great similarity exists in the plans of nearly all the abbeys
in Ireland, which are generally cruciform, with aisles, transepts, nave,
and chancel, and a slender tower rising from the intersection. Of the same
date, and erected under the same circumstances, are the greater portion of
the Irish castles, which vary from the single keep-tower of the predatory
chieftain to the defensive fortresses of Tuam and Roscommon, or the
modernised castles of Malahide and Kilkenny, Of walls and gateways
a good many remains are left,, and from the style of their building and
the history of the place, we know that they occupy the same date as
the castles. Athlone, Drogheda, Londonderry, Clonmel, Wexford, all
furnish good examples. The traveller is referred to the following
Compendium of remains that are described in the Handbook,
In trod.
VI. Antiquities.
Ill
cc
At no period of their history were the people of Ireland either so
settled or prosperous as to be enabled to imdertake the erection of any
great ecclesiastical buildings such as are found everywhere in Great
Britain, from Kirkwall to Cornwall. The cathedral of Dublin must
always have been a second-class edifice for a metropoUtan church, and
those of Cashel and Kildare are neither so large nor so richly orna-
mented as many EngUsh parish churches. The same is true with regard
to the monasteries : they are generally small, though rich in detail. Some
of them still retain their cloisters, which in all instances have so foreign
an aspect as to be quite startling." — Fergusson,
Table of the host intebestikq Antiquarian Remains.
The Figures refer to the Routes.
Cromlechs,
12. Broadstone.
4. Finn's Finger Stone.
23. Glendruid.
2. Howth.
10. Kilclooney near Naran.
23. Kilteman.
18. Lough Gara.
25. Lough Gur.
1. Phoenix Park.
23. Shankill.
33, SUeve Callane.
Circles, Stones, &c,
10. Beltany near Eaphoe,
36. Clonakilty.
4. Clough More.
37. Dripsey (Ogham).
31. Dunloe Cave (Ogham).
32. Gallerus Pillar Stone.
5. Giant's Bing.
5. Kempe Stones.
32. Eilmakedar.
3. Kilnasaggart,
25. Lough Gut.
4. Slieve na Griddle.
32. Temple Geall.
Tumvli (Sepulchral),
2. Bamageera.
15. Dowth.
2. Drogbeda.
15. Knowth.
15. Kewgrange.
Oratories, Cashds, &o.
20. St. Benans.
32. Bishop's Island.
16. St. Columb's, Kells.
28. St. Declan's, Ardmore.
37. St. Finbar, Gk)ugane Barra.
32. GaUerus, Smerwick.
22. High Island.
24. St. Kevin's, Glendalough.
32. Temple Geall.
Baths and Mounds {with or without
underground Passages),
3. Cairn Bone.
3. Ccdm Cochy.
15. Clady.
3. Crown Bridge.
5. Donaghadee.
4. Downpatrick.
3. Druibh Mor.
17. Emania.
3. Faughart Hill.
7. Grianan of Aileach.
25. Kilfinane.
29. Lismore.
26. Moat of Ardscull.
17. Moat of Granard.
26. MuUaghahmast.
4. Slieve Croob.
15. Tara.
16. Tailtean.
17. Tomb of Nial Caille.
Forts, Duns, &c.
35. Ballycarbry.
35. Caherdaniel.
20. Dubh Cahir.
20. Dubh Catbair.
20, Dun .Slngus.
c 2
liv
VI. Antiquities,
lutrod.
20. Dun Connor.
25. Dun Ailline.
20. Dun Onaght.
3. Lisnagade (and Dane's Cast).
25. Lough Gut.
35. Miltown.
10. Karan. ,
20. Oghill.
35. S^igue.
35. Templenakill.
Churches,
17. Abbeylara.
18. Asselyn.
31. Aghadoe.
21. Annaghdown.
28. Ardmore.
12.- Banagher.
15. St. Bernards.
37. Oarrigaline.
15. Oannlstown.
13. Carrickfergus.
34. Glonmacnoise*
30. Clonmel.
15. Donaghmore.
16. Donaghpatiick.
2. St. Doulough's.
33. Dysert.
6. Enniskillen.
18. St. Fechan's, Fore.
2. St. Fintan's.
27. Freshford.
3. St. Flannan's, Killaloe.
24. Glendalough.
3. Glynn.
20. Galway (St. Nicholas).
34. Inisoalthra.
37. Iniscurra.
81. Inisfallen.
6. Iniskeen.
21. Inismaan.
2. Eilbarrock.
15. Eilcam.
33. Kilfenora.
26. Killeshin.
24. Killiney.
33. Killone.
33. Eilmacduagh.
32. Eilteman,
3a Einsale.
20. St. Macdara.
2. Monasterboice.
2. St. Nessan.
25. Oughterarde.
16. Ratidmore.
32. Rattoo.
27. Boscrea.
27. Seir Eyran.
8. Sligo.
20. Teampul Brecain.
20. Teampul Chiarain.
20. Teampul Mic Duach.
20. Teampul Patrick.
AhbeyBf Mbruuteries, and Cathedrals.
32. Ardfert.
28. Ardmore.
25. Ardpatrick.
17. Armagh.
32. Adare.
Trinitarian Abbey.
Augustinian,
Franciscan.
32. Askeaton.
14. Athenry.
30. AthasseL
21. BalUntober.
18. Ballymote.
15. Ballybogan.
29. Ballynatray.
15. Bective.
13. Bonamargey.
18. Boyle.
22. Burrishoole.
25. Butteyant.
4. Garlingford.
25. Gashel.
Hore Abbey.
Dominican.
26. Castle Dermot.
33. Glare.
28. Glare.
21. Glaregalway.
28. Glonmines.
21. Gong.
25. Gt. ConelL
33, Corcumroe.
37. Cork (St. Finbar).
19. Deerane.
7. Derry.
6. Devenish.
Donegal.
1, Dublin.
Christ Ch.
St. Patrick's.
Introd.
16. Buleek.
28. Dunbrody.
28. Dungarvan.
12. Dungiven.
4. Downpatrick.
2. Drogbeda.
St. Mary D'Urso.
Doiuinican.
3. Drmdalk.
33. Ennis.
23. Ferns.
18. Fore,
29. Glanworth.
24. Glendalough.
5. Grey.
25. Holycross.
2. Howtb.
4. Incb.
26. Jerpoint.
14. KilconnelL
37. Kilcrea.
25. Kildare.
19. Killala.
34. Killaloe.
25. Kilmallock.
Dominican Priory.
17. Kilmore.
11. KillydonneU.
10. Kibnacrenan.
26. Kilkenny.
St. Oanice.
Black Abbey.
Dominican.
St. Jobn's.
33. Knockmoy.
33. Limerick.
27. Lougbrea.
3. Lontb.
32. Manister.
2. Mellifoni
25. Moor.
19. Moyne.
32. Mmigret.
30. Munkross.
18. Multifambam.
22. Murrisk.
15. Newtovn Trim.
34. Portumna.
33. Quid.
25. Rabm.
32. Batbkeale.
29. Rbincrew.
28. Bosbercon.
VI. Antiquities.
36. Rosoarbery.
19. Roscommon.
19. Roserk.
21. Ross.
4. Saiil.
15. Slane.
St. Erc*8 Hermitage.
8. Sbgo.
36. Timoleague.
28. Tmtem.
20. Toombeola.
15. Trim.
Dominican.
33. Tuam.
23. WexfOTd.
Selsker,
28. YougbaL
Dominican Friars.
Round Toioeri,
31. Agbadoe.
25. Ardpatrick.
20. Ardkyne.
13. Armoy.
12. Antrim.
21. Anghagower.
28. Ardmore.
22. Balla.
17. Belturbei
25. Oasbel.
26. Castle Dermot.
6. Clones.
1. Clondalkm.
34. Clonmacnoise.
37. Cloyne.
6. Deveniab.
15. Donagbmore.
2. Dromiskin.
8. Drumcliflf:
5. Drumbo.
32. Dysert.
33. Dysert O'Dea.
24. Glendalougb.
34. Iniscalthra.
32. Iniscattery.
6. Iniskeen.
25. Kilcullen.
25.' Kildare.
26. Kilkenny.
19. Killala.
83. KUmacduagb.
26. Kilree,
Iv
Ivi
VI. Antiquities,
Id trod.
36. Kiuneith.
2. Lusk.
2. Monasterboice.
25. Oughterarde.
12. Ram's Island.
82. Rattoo.
27. Roscrea.
27. Seir Keyran.
2. Swords.
14. Taghadoe.
25. Timahoe.
3. Trummery,
26. Tulloherin.
Welh and Baptisteries,
28. Ardmore.
2. St. Doulough.
2. Mellifoni
Castles,
32. Adare.
87. Aghamarta.
20. Ard.
2. Ardee.
80. Ardfinnan.
4. Ardglass.
20. Ardkyne.
22. Ardnaglass.
32. Askeaton.
16. Athcame.
2. Athclare.
14. Athenry.
14. Athlone.
15. Athlumney.
26. Athy.
4. AtMUey.
20. Aughnanure.
2. Baldangan.
18. Ballinafad.
18. Ballymote.
36. Ballinacarrig.
33. Ballyportry.
2. Balrothery.
37. Ballinacollig.
36. Baltimore.
7. Benburb.
25. Blarney.
32. Bniree.
33. Bunratty.
32. Carrig-a-Gunnell.
33. Clare Castle.
36. Cor.
36. Castle Donovan.
37. Cafitle Masters.
15. Carbery.
15. Castle Dexter.
14. Castle Knocks
13. Carrickfergus.
37. Carrigadrobid.
30. Cahir.
26. Carlow.
22. Clare Island.
21. Claregalway.
4. Carlingford.
3. Castletown.
1. Dublin.
4. Dundrmn.
31. Dromaneen.
31. Drisbane.
25. Dnnamase.
22. Doon.
13. Dunseverick.
11. Doe Castle.
15. Donore.
36. Domdaniel.
1. Diimnagb.
23. Enniscortby.
23. Ferns.
29. Glanworth.
4. GreencastJe.
2. Howth.
3. Hillsborough.
20. Hag's Castle.
21. Hen's Castle.
31. Eanturk.
4. Kilclief.
4. KiUyleagk
26. Kilkenny.
23. Kildare.
8. Kilbarron.
15. Kinnafad.
33. Liiperick.
29. Lismore.
26. Leighlin.
25. LiscarroU.
25. Lea.
2. Lusk.
21. Lough Mask.
33. Liscannor.
16. Liscarton.
6. Monea.
9. M'Swyne's.
14. Maynooth.
15. Mylerstown.
37. Monkstown.
21. Moyne.
In trod.
VI. Antiquities.
Ivii
2. Malahide.
4. Narrowwater,
32. Newcastle.
13. Olderfleet
14. Oraniuore.
30. Oola.
19. Rindown.
19. Bosoommon.
22. Rinvyle.
.31. Koss.
27. Roscrea.
26. Rheban.
16. Rathaldron.
32. Shanes.
15. Scurloughstown.
29. Strancally.
21. Shrule.
2. Swords.
2. Tennonfeckin.
29. Temple Michael.
25. Thurlea.
15. Trim.
15. Ticroghan.
6. Tully.
9. Termon M'Grath.
Bridges,
26. Cromaboo, Athy.
36. Cromweirs Bridge.
35. Castlemaine.
26. Inistibgue.
14. Leixlip.
14. Newbridge.
33. Thomond Bridge. Limeiick.
Crosses,
25. CasheL
26. Castle Dennot.
1. Clondalkin.
21. CJong.
7. Camdonagh.
6. Clones.
34. Clonmacnoise,
7. Donaghmore.
8. I>romcliff.
24. Fassaroe.
1. Finglaa.
9. Glen.
16. Kellfl.
25. Kilcullen.
33. Kilfenoia.
2. Monasterboice.
16. Nevinstown.
27. Boscrea.
33. Tuam.
17. Tynan.
WalU,
13. Camckfergus.
7. Derry.
2. Drogheda.
30. Fethaid.
18. Fore.
20. Galway.
25. Kilmallock.
23. Wexford.
Gates.
26. Athy.
Preston's Gate.
13. Camckfergus.
2. Drogheda.
Butter Gate.
St. Lawrence Gate.
30. Fethard.
18. JamestowD.
25. Kilmallock.
27. New Boss.
14. St Wolstan's.
Mansions,
25. Ardmayle.
36. Coppinger's Court.
7. Castle Caulfield.
8. Duncarbry.
8. Donegal Castle.
20. Galway.
Lynch's House.
Lombard Street House.
Joyce's House.
26. Inchmore.
25. Loughmore.
Kilmallock.
6. Manor Hamilton.
28. Youghal.
Sir W. Raleigh.
Iviii VII. Places of Interest. Introd.
yil. Places op Interest.
Dublin. — Carlifile Bridge. Four Courts. Custom House. South Wall.
Bank. Exchange. Trinity College. Castle and Chapel. Christ Church.
St. Patrick's. Royal Dublin Society's Museiun. Royal Irish Academy.
Museum of Irish Industry. St. Andrew's ch. St. Andrew's Cath. chapeL
Phcenix Park. Zoological Gardens. Hibernian School. Kilmainham Hos-
pital. ClondaUdn Roimd Tower. Glasnevin Cemetery. Botanic Gardens.
Dunsmk Observatory. Castle Knock. Clontarf Castle. Bull Wall at
DoUymount. Drimnagh Castle. Mount Anville.
Kingstown, — Harbour. Monkstown Castle. Bullock Castle. Dalkey
Island. Killiney Hill and Quarries. Killiney ch.
H<ywth.—\\QYf from' Hill. Cromlech. Baily Lighthouse. St. Fintan's
ch. Castle and Abbey. St. Doulough's Church and Well. Ireland's Eye.
St. Nessan's ch. Killbarrock ch.
Malahide. — Castle. Swords Castle and Round Tower. Lusk Round
Tower. Baldangan Castle. Balrothery ch.
^aH>r/^^a».— Skerries.
Drogheda. — Walls. West Gate. St. Lawrence's Gate. St. Mary's Abbey.
Magdalene steeple. Rly. viaduct. Mound of the Tomb of Gobhan's wife.
Mellifont Abbey. Monasterboice Round Tower, Church, and Crosses.
Battlefield of the Boyne. Donore ch. Newgrange Tumulus. Dowth
Tiunulus. St Bernard's ch. Athcamo Castle. Duleek Abbey. Maiden
Tower.
Castle BeUingham. — ^Ardee Castle. Miltown Castle.
DundaUc.—Ch. R. C. chapel. Friary. Louth Abbey. Ravensdale.
Iniskeen Church and Round Tower.
Newry, — Crown Bridge Rath. Narrow Water Castle. Cairn Bane.
Cairn Cochy.
Warrenj^int, — ^Drive to Rostrevor. Omeath. Carlingford Castle. Abbey.
Tower.
Bostrevor, — ^Kilbroney ch. Ascent of Slieve B&n. Cloughmore. Finn's
Fingerstone. Greencastle. The Woodhouse.
Kilkeel.-^
Newcastle. — Maggy's Leap. Armor's Hole. Donard Lodge. Ascent
of Slieve Donard. Tollymore Park. Bryansford. Dundrum Castle.
Banhridge. — Danes Cast. Lisnagade Fort. Tanderagee Castle.
JPortadown. —
Imrgan.— Waringstown.
Moira. — Tnunery Church and Round Tower.
Lisburn.^ Ch. Hillsborough Castle. Dromore Cathedral. Druibh Mor.
Ardglass. — ^New Works. Horn, Choud, and Jordan's Castles. Ardtole.
Kilclief Castle.
Strangford. — Audley Castle.
Doionpatrick, — Cathedral. Slieve na Griddle. Saul and Inch Abbeys.
Wells of StrueL Rath.
BdUynahinch, —Wells. Montalto. Slieve Croob. Killyleagh Castle.
Portaferry. — View from Blackbank. Castle.
Newtoimards. — Courthouse. Mount Stewart. Grey Abbey,
Comber. — Ogilvie Monument. Camgaver Hills.
Donaghadee. — Harbour. Rath.
Bangor. — Castle.
Bel/ast.—'Docka. Harbour. Flax-mills. Commercial Buildings. Ulster
lutrod. Tii. Places of Interest. lix
Bunk. Queen's College. Cave Hill. Divis. Dranbo Ohtiroh and Bound
Tower. Giant's Bing. Kempe Stones at DandonakL Holy wood.
Corrtcfc/«ratt«.— Castle. Walls. Gates. Ch. Doncrue Salt-mines.
Xome.— Oiderfleet Castle. Glyn ch. Magheramome Landslip. Crom-
lech in Island Magee. The Gtobbins Clifb at Camcastle.
CHenarm. — Castle. Ch. Deerpark.
Camfottgf^.— Cliff scenery. Garron Tower. Clough-na-stookan.
CushendaU, — ^Waterfoot Bed Bay. Glendun.
Cushetidun. — Caves.
BaUycasde — Fairhead. Coal Workings at Murlongh Bay. Bonamargr
Abhey. Bathlin Island. Clifis at Doon. Bruce's Castle. Knocklayd.
Armoy Bound Tower. Gobban Saer's Castle.
JBaUintoy. — Carrick a rede. Dunseverick.
Giant's Oausenxiv.— Bengore Head. Pleaskin. Dunseyeiick Castle.
Kenbane Castle. Caves. The Organ.
Portrush. — Dunluce Castle. Wliite Bocks. Portstewari
Ccleraine. — Salmon Leap. Mount SandeL
Durdoy. — Broadstone.
Jlandalttown. — Shane's Castle.
Antrim. — Castle. Bound Tower. Bam's Island and Bound Tower.
Liough Neagh.
NevoUm Limavaddy. — ^Ascent of Keady. Dungiven Abbey and Castle.
Valley of the Boe. !Banagher di. McGiliigan. Cliff scenery. Down Hill.
D&rry. — Walker's Pillar. Cathedral. Walls. Corporation House. Har-
bour. Bridge. Grianan of Aileach.
JBunorana, — Dunaff Head. Malin Head.
MoviUe. — Camdonagh Cross. Inishowen Head. Greencastle.
EathmeUon. — Killydonnell Abbey. Fort Stewart. Batbmelton Priory,
liamb Head. Moross Castle. Fanad Head. Letterkenny. Kilmacre-
nan Abbey. Bock of Doone. Lough Salt Gartan Lough. Milford.
Glenveagh.
Gweedore. — Dunlewy. Arrigal. Bunbeg.
Dunfanaghy.—Honi Head. McSwyne's Gun. Ard's Castle. Doe
Castle. Bosapenna Sands. Falcarragh. Ascent of Muckish.
Dunglow. — ^Anagarry. Butland Isle. Tholla Bristha. Doocharry Bridge.
GlerUies. — ^Naran. Early Bemains. Kilclooney Cromlech.
Ardara, — Glen Gleask. Scenery at Loughros.
Glen. — Glen Head. St. Coliunb's Bed. Tormore. Malinmore.
Carrick. — Ascent of Slieve Liagh. Sunglass. Corrigan Head. Kilcar.
KiUybegs.—Ch. Schools. Fintragh. Inver ch. McSwyne's Castle.
Donegal. — Castile. Abbey. Lough Easke. Gap of Bamesmore. Finn
Valley.
Lifford. — Bridges over the Moume and Finn.
Jtaphoe. — Cathedral. Beltany Circle.
BaUinfra.— PuUcns.
BaUyshannon. — Salmon Leap. Kilbarron Castle. BeUeek. Bapids of
the Erne. Garrison. Lough Melvin.
Bundoran. — Duncarbry Castle. Coast scenery. Lough Melvin. Kin-
lough. Glenade Valley.
Sli'go. — Abbey. Ch. Lough Gill. Hazlewood. Dromahaire. Crevelea
Abbey. Knocknarea Hill and Glen. Ballysadare Falls. Markree Castle.
Glencar. Tissadill. Baghly Pigeon Hole. Drumcliff Bound Tower and
Crosses. Ascent of Benbulben.
c 3
Ix VII. Places of Interest, Introd.
Manor Hamilton, — Oastia Glenade Valley. Lough Macnean.
EnniskiUen. — Ch. Lough Erne. Devenish Island, Abbey, and Bound
Tower. Cole Column. Portora Sdiool. Lii^oole. Ooole (>tstle. Orum
Castle. Ely Lodge. Tully Castle. Monea Castle. Florence Court. Swaa-
Unbar. Marble Arch. Cuilcagh. Source of the Shannon.
Pettigoe. — Termon McGrath Castle. Lough Derg.
Clogher. — Cathedral. Cascade in Lumford Glen.
Omagh. — Donaghmore Cross. Castle CauMeld.
Dungannon. — Moy. Charlemont Castle. Benburb Castle.
Nefwton Stewart, — Baron's Court Ascent of Bessy BeU.
Limaskea. — Crum Castle. Upper Lough Erne.
Clones. — Ch. Bound Tower. Cross.
Monaghan. — Tynan Cross.
Castle Blayney. — Lough Muckna.
Armagh. — Cathedral. Observatory. library. Palace. Emania. B. C.
Cathedral.
Keady. — Linen Manufactory.
Cavan. — Kilmore Cathedral. Lord Famham*s Grounds.
Bdturhet. — ^Boun'd Tower. Upper Lough Erne.
Chranard. — Moat. Abbey Lara ch. Lough Gowna.
Virginia. — Lough Bamor.
Xettg.— Bound Tower. St. Columb's House. Crosses. Headfort House.
Pillar on Lloyd Hill. HUl of Tailtean.
Navan. — Liscarton Castle. Donaghpatrick ch. Bathaldron. Nevins-
town Cross. Bathmore ch. Castle Dexter. Donaghmore Church and
Bound Tower. Dumnoe Castle. Chambers at Clady. AtUumney Castle.
Cannistown ch. Kilcam ch. ; Font.
/S^/a7i6.— Abbey. Hermitage of St. Ere. Castle. Brugh na Boinne.
Trim. — Castle. Dominican Friary. Abbey of St. Peter and Paul.
Yellow Steeple. "Wellington Monument. Newtown Trim Abbey. Bective
Abbey. Hill of Tara. Dangan Castle. Trubley Castle. Scurloughstown
Castle. Donore Castle.
HiU of Down. — Clonard Church and Font. Ticroghan Castle. BaUy-
began Abbey. Croghan Hill. Einnafad Castle.
Edenderry. — Castle. Ch. Monasteroris ch. Castle Carbery. Source
of the Boyne. Mylerstown Castle. Carrick Castle.
Maynooth. — Castle. Colleges. Carton. Taghadoe Bound Tower. Clon-
gowes College.
Leiadip. — Bridge. Salmon Leap. Celbridge Castle. Newbridge. St.
Wulstan's (Gateways). Castletown House. Woodlands. Strawberry
Beds.
MuUingar. — ^LoughEnnel. Lough Owel. Multi&mham Abbey. Wilson's
Hospital. Lough Dereveragh. Knockeyen. Fore Church and Walls.
Edgeworthstown House and Church.
Longford. — B. C. Cathedral
Dromod. — The Shannon.
Carrick on Shannon. — Bockingham House. Lough Key.
BoyU. — Abbey. Curlew Hills. Ballinafad Castle. Lough Arrow.
Kesh Corran HUls. Ballymote Abbey and Castle.
Athlone. — Fortifications. Bly. Bridge. Castle. Chs. Qonmacnoise.
Bound Tower. Chs. Castle. Inscribed Stones. Esker Bidges. Lough
Bee. Hare Island. Bindown Castle.
Boscommon. — Castle. Abbey. Deerane Abbey.
Introd. vn. Places of Interest. Ixi
^aflin««Zoe.— Gterbally Park. Battlefield of Anghrim. lismany Model
Farm. Kilconnell Abbey.
Athenry. — Abbey. Oastle. Abbey Knockmoy. Loughrea Abbey.
Oranmore Castle.
Galway. — ^Walls. Bastions. St. Nicholas ch. Docks. Joyce's and
Liynch's Mansions. House in Lombard Street. Ancient Houses. GoUege.
Oladdagh. Menloe Castle. Lough Conib. Clare -Galway Castle and
Abbey.
Aran Idand. — Arkyne Castle and Bound Tower. The Chs. of Teampall
Brecain. T. Benan. T. Mic Duach. Forts of Dun -^Jngus, Dun Onaght,
Dubh Cahir, Dubh Cathair, and OghiU. Limestone CliflEs. Lighthouse.
OugMerarde. — Waterfidl. Aughnanure Castle. Hag's Castle.
Clifden. — Castle. Ardbear. Waterfidl. Erislannin. Slyne Head.
Boundstone. XJrrisbeg. Ballyimhinch. Toombeola Abbey. Becess.
Ascent of Lissoughter. Twelve Pins. Derrydare and Inagh Lakes. Bcd-
Ijmakill Harbour. Letterirack. Streamstown. Doon Casue.
KyUmore. — ^RiuTyle Castle. Twelve Pins. Derrydare and Inagh Lakes.
Lough Fee. Mamturk Mountains.
ieienane.— SabxHjk. Errive. Delphi. Lough Doo. Ascent of Muilrea.
Killaries.
Con^, — ^Kuins on Inch a Goill. Abbey. Pigeon Hole. Horse*s Dis-
covery. Canal. Cross. Maume. Hen's Castle. Benlevy. Lough Mask
Castle.
BalUnrdbe, — Iniahmaan oh. Scenery of Lough Mask. HoUymount
Shrule Castle.
Headford. — ^Annaghdown ch. Clydagh. Moyne Castle. Boss Abbey.
Headford House. Knocknaa Hill.
Tuam. — Cathedral Doorway. Cross.
WesbpoH, — Harbour. Oh. Lord Sh'go's Domain. Murrisk Abbey.
Croagh Patrick. Drive to Louisburg. Aughagower Bound Tower. The
Source of the Ayle. Ballintober Abbey.
Newport. — Burrishoole Abbey. Cairigahooly Castle. Clare Island Castle
and Abbey.
. AchM. — Kildaunet Castle. Settlement. Ascent of Slieve More and
Orphan. Keem. Dooega. Achill Beg.
Vastlebar, — Lord Lucan's Farm. Pontoon.
BoZZtTia.-— Nephin Mt. B. C. ch. Buins of Abbey. Boserk and Moyne
Abbeys. Killaloe Church and Bound Tower. Coast Scenery from Beal-
derig to Benwee Head, BelmuUet, and Erris. The Stags.
Bray. Cromlechs at Glendruid and Eilteman. Kilteman ch. Bally-
oorus Smelting Works. Bray Head. Kilruddery. Hollybrook. Valley
of Diamonds. Dargle. Powerscourt and Waterfell. Glencree. Kippure
Mountain. Lough Bray. Enniskerry. Fassaroe Cross. St. Valeiy. Ajscent
of the Sugar Loaf.
Newtown Mount Kennedy. — Glen of the Downs. Bellevue.
Afford. — Vartiy Biver. Devil's Glen. Waterworks.
Baihdrvm. — ^Valley of the Annamoe. ' Claragh. Vale of Avoca.
Olendalough.—Whiary Bead. Bound Tower. Our Lady's ch. St.
Kevin's House. Gateway. Cathedral The Monastery. Trinity ch.
Beefert ch. Pollanass Waterfall. St. Kevin's Bed. Lakes. Luggan-
nasan Lead Mines. Glenmalure. Ascent of Lugnaquilla.
Boundwood. — Vartry Scenery. Water-works. Lough Dan. Luggelaw.
Sally Gap. Source of the Liffey.
Ixii vn. Places of Interest, Introd.
Wooden Bridge. — CJopper Mines at Ballyinnrtagb. Oroghau Elinshela.
Sbelton Abbey. Augbrim Bridge. Tinnabely.
Wicklow.—CaBtle. Cb. Cliffe at Wicklow Head.
Arklow. — Sbelton Abbey.
Gorey. — Courtown House.
Ferns. — CatbedraL Monastery. Gastle.
Newtoum Barry. — Valley of tbe Slaney. Ascent of Mount Leinster.
Enniscorthy. — Castle. Vinegar Hill. Cb. Scenery of tbe Slaney.
Wex/oni.— Ruins of Selsker cb. Walls. St. Peter's cb. B. 0. College-
Bridge.
Straffan. — Lyons Castle. Ougbterarde Cburcb and Round Tower.
SaUim. — Clane Abbey. Clongowes College.
Naas. — Ratb. Jigginstown House. Blessington. Pollapbuca Water-
fall. Scenery of Mountains. Eilcullen Old Town. Round Tower. Cross.
Dun Ailllne.
Newbridge. — Gt. Conall Abbey. Ourragb of Kildare.
Kildare. — Round Tower. Abbey. Castle. Cbair of Kildare.
Monasterevan, — Moore Abbey. Cb.
Portarlington. — Spire HilL Emo. Lea Castle. Ballybrittas.
TvUamore. — Earl of Charleville's Park. Rabin cb. Pbillipstown.
Maryborough, — Lunatic Asylum. Dunamase Rock. Timaboe Round
Tower.
Athy — Castle. Woodstock Castle. Preston's Gkite. Cromaboo Bridge.
Rbeban Castle. Moat of Ardscull. Ratb of Mullagbmast. Kilkea Castle.
Castle Dermot Round Tower. Abbey. Crosses.
Carfoio.— Castle. Cb. R. C. Catbedral. College. Killesbin cb. Col-
lieries near Castle Comer.
Leighlin Bridge. — Black Castle.
Kilkenny.— Cast\e. Bridges. St. Canice*s Catbedral and Round Tower.
St. Jobn's cb. Black Abbey. Franciscan Monastery. R. C. Catbedral.
College. Cave of Dunmore. Incbmore Castle. Fresbford cb.
Templemore. — Priory. Devil's Bit. Lougbmore Castle.
Thurles. — R. C Catbedral. Castle. Holy Cross Abbey.
Cashel. — ^Rock. Catbedral. - Cross. Cormac's Cbapel. Round Tower.
Hore Abbey. Dominican Priory. Ardmayle Castle.
Tipperary. — Galty Mountains. Atbassel Abbey.
Knocklong. — Castle. Moor Abbey. Hospital.
KilmaRock. — ^Walls. Gates. Old Mansions. Cb. Dominican Priory.
Lougb Gur. Forts. Cromlecb. Desmond Castle. Carrig-na-Nabin.
Ardpairick. — Ratb of Kilfinane. Round Tower. Monastery.
Buttevant. — Castle. Franciscan Abbey. Sceneryof tbe Awbeg. Kilcol-
man Castle. Doneraile Castle. LiscarroU Castle.
MaUouj. — Scenery of the Blackwater. Abbey Mome. Dromaneen Castle.
Cork. — Blarney Castle. Scenery of tbe Lee. St. Finbar's. Court
House. Harbour. Bridges. " Tbe Cove. Queenstown. Spike Island.
Passage. Carrigaline cb. Cloyne Round Tower. Agbada. Blackrock
Castle. Mattbew Tower.
Thomastown. — Bridge. Altar in R. C. Cbapel. Dominican Abbey.
Jerpoint Abbey. Inistiogue. Bridge. Cb. Woodstock. Scenery of tbe
Nore.
New R088. — River Scenery. Bridge. Gate. Cb. Rosbercon Abbey.
Mountgarrett Castle. Dunbrody Abbey. Duncannon. Hook Point.
Clonmiues Abbey. Tintem Abbey.
Introd. VII. Places of Interest, Ixiii
Waterfnrd. — Cathedral. Bridge. Beginald's Tower. Quay. Scenery
of the Suir to Passage. Tramore. Dunmore.
Kilmacthomas. — Bonmahon Copper Mines. L. Coumshingawn.
Dungarvan — Ahbey Side. Castle. Bridge. Valley of the Colligan.
Toughed. — Collegiate church. Dominican Abbey Buins. Sir Walter
Raleiga s House. Wooden Bridge. Kock Scenery in the Bay. Ardmore
Bound Tower. Ch. Cathedral and Well of St. Declan. Bhincrew.
Strancally Csistle. Ballynatray Abbey- Dromana. Scenery of the Black-
water. Cappoquin. Mount Melleray Monastery. Killeagh. Grounds of
Ahadoe.
lAsmore, — Castle. Bath.
Fermoy. — Barracks. Eiver Scenery. Macollop Castle. Glanworth
Oastle and Abbey Buins. Castletown Boche ch. Castle Widenham. Glen
of the Araglin.
JlfiVcfecfctoiwi.— Castle. College. Caves.
Carrick on Suir. — Coolnamuck. Scenery of the Suir. Bridge at Fiddown.
ClonTnd.^Ch. Walls. Grates. Scenery of Suir. Ascent of Slieve
Naman. Fethard. Walls and Gkites. Valley of the Suir.
Oa^tr.— Castle. Cahir House and Grounds. Caves of Mitchelstown.
Ardfinan Bridge and Castle.
Limerick Junction. — Ballykisteen. Oola Castle.
PaUas. — Basaltic Columns at Linfield.
Limerick. — ^Thomond Bridge. Wellesley Bridge. Cathedral. Castle.
Treaty Stone. Quay. B. C. Chapel. Barrington's HospitaL
KiUaloe. — Cathedral. St. Flannan's House. Bapids at Castleconnell.
Scenery of the Shannon. Lough Derg. Scariff. Iniscalthra Bound Tower.
Ch. Buins.
Woodford. — Scenery of Lough Derg and Slieve Boughta Mountains.
Portumna.—Ahhey Buins. Loragh Abbey.
Banagher. — Bridge. Meelick Abbey. Clonfert.
Gort. — Church and Bound Tower of Eilmacduagh. Lough Cooter House
and Lake.
Ennis. — Franciscan Monastery Buins. Clare Abbey. Killone Abbey.
Slieve Callane. Miltown Malbay. Ennistymon. Liscannor Castle. Cliffs
of Mohir. Black Head.
Kil/enora. — Ch. Crosses. Inchiquin Castle. Ballyportry Castle. Dysert
Churdi and Bound Tower.
Clare Castle. — Bridge. Castle.
Quin. — Abbey.
Crailoe. — Castles. Bunrratty Castle.
Mungret. — Abbey Buins. Carrig-a-Gunnel Castle.
Croome. — Dysart Church and Bound Tower. Manister Abbey. Bruree
Castle.
Adare.—JjoTd Dunraven*s Seat. Trinitarian Abbey. Augustinian Abbey.
Francisttm Abl)ey. Desmond Castle.
Rathkeale. — Priory. Newcastle Castle.
Asheaion. — ^Water&ll on the Deel. Ch. Franciscan Abbey. Castle of
the Desmonds.
Foynes. — ^Estuary of the Shannon. Glin Castle. Shanid Castle.
KUrusli. — Inisscattery Bound Tower. Oratory of St. Senanus.
JBT/lfcec.— Cliff and Coast Scenery. Natural Bridge. Bishop's Island.
Early Bemains. Dermot and Graiue's Bock. PuflSup: Hole.
ii«<(wi?eK.— Castle. Ballybunnion Caves. Battoo Bound Tower.
Ixiv viu. Skeleton Boutes. Introd.
~ Tralee. — ^Blennerville. Mountain Scenery in Dingle Promontory. Bran-
don Mountain. Dingle. Smerwick. Oratory of Gkdlerus. Kilmalkedar
Pillar Stone. Templegeal. Ardfert Abbey. Ballyheigue.
Ca^demaine. — Bridge. Forts.
KiUamey.—LAke Scenery. Ross Casfle. Inisfallen. O'Sullivan's Cas-
cade. Glena. Dinish Island. Old Weir Bridge. Long Range. Eagle's
Nest Lord Brandon's Cottage. Upper Lake. Cave of Dunloe. Ctap of
Dunloe. Cummeenduff. AjBcent of Oarrantuohill. Agbadoe Church
and Round Tower. R. C. ch. Clogbreen. Muckross Abbey. Tore Water-
fall. Mangerton. Police Barrack. Looscaunagh Lough. Gkdway's Bridge.
Lough Guitane. Glen na ooppul. Valley of the Flesk. Paps. MUlstreet.
Drishane Castle. Kanturk Castle.
KiUorglin.^Miliown. Eilooleman Abbey. Lough Cana. Glenbehay.
Mountain Scenery. Terrace Road to Cahirciveen.
Cahirciveen. — Ballycarbery Castle and Fort Yalentia Island. Slate
Works and Quarries. Knight of Kerry's House.
WaterviUe. — Lough Curraun. Early Ecclesiastical Remains on Church
Island. BaUinskellig Bay. Dowlas Head. Skellig's Rocks. Derrynane
Abbey. Forts at TemplenakiUa (earthen), Cahirdaniel, and Staigae
(stone).
Kenmare. — Bridge over the Blackwater. Dromore Castle. Suspensioii
Bridge. Road to Killamey.
Glengarriff.^CaAtie. Scenery of the Bay. Cromwell's Bridge. Adri*
goole Waterfall. Hungry HiU.
Castietown Bearhaven. — Defences. Mines at AUahies.
jBa?rfry.— Scenery of Bay. Falls of the Mealagh. Pass of Keimaneigh.
Gougane Barra. Oratory of St. Finbar. Inchigeelah. Castle Masters.
SkuU. — Copper Mines at Ballydehob. Bay of Roaring Water. Crook-
haven.
Skibhereen. — Coast Scenery at Baltimore. Lough Hyne. Leap Ravine.
Cl<makilty.—&tone Circle. Fortresses on the GoMt Roscarberry Cathe-
dral. Templefaughtna. Timoleague Abbey.
Jhmmanway. — Ballyna-carrig Castle.
Band(m.—Ch. Castle Bernard. Inishannon. Domdaniel Castle. Castle
Cor.
KinscHe. — Ch. Harbour. Forts. Old Head of Kinsale.
Macroom. — Carrigaphooca Castle. Dundareirke Castle. MaflTianftglftes
Castle. Macroom Castle. Carrigadrohid Castle.
BaUincoUig. — ^Powder-miUs. Ovens. Kilcrea Abbey. Dripsey. Ogham
Stone. Inishcarra ch. Scenery of the Lea at Inisncarra and Ardrum.
Carrigrohane Castle.
VHL Skeleton Routes.
L A MONTH'S TOUR IN THE NORTH.
1. Dublin to Howth, St. Doulough's, Malahide, and Lusk; sleep at
Drogheda.
2. See Drogheda. Excursion to Mellifont and Monasterboice, and Duleek.
3. Rail to Navan, returning by road to Drogheda; see Slane, New-
grange, Battlefield of the Bioyne, and Dowth.
4. Rail to Dundalk, Clones, Enniskillen ; see Deveuish.
Introd. vni. Skeleton RotUes, Ixv
5. Florence Court. Cuilcagh. Marble Arch. If time in evening, row
up the lake to Lisgoole.
6. To Sligo : see Abbey and Knocknarea.
7. Lough Gill. Dromahaire. Hazlewood.
8. To Bundoran and Ballyshannon. BalUntra. TJie Pullens. Sleep at
Donegal.
9. See Castle and Abbey. To Killybegs and Carrick.
10. Ascend Slieve League ; see Glen CcJast.
11. Glengeask. Ardara. Get on to Glenties (very poor accommodation).
12. To Doocharry Bridge, Dunglow, and Gweedore.
18. Ascend Arrigal. Dunlewy. To Dunfanaghy.
14. Horn Head. Doe Castle. Glen. Lough Salt. Bathmullan.
15. To Bathmelton. Kilmacrenan. Lettei^enny.
16. To Strabane. Derry ; see Derry.
17. M'Gilligan. Newtown Limavaddy. Dungiven. Portrush.
18. To Dunluce and Causeway. Sleep there.
19. To Ballintoy. Carrick-a-rede. Ballycastle. Fairhead.
20. To Cushendall ; see Caves. Glenarm. Lame. Olderfleet Castle.
21. Cliff Scenery in Island Magee ; see Carrickfergus. To Belfast
22. Belfast. Drnmbo. Giant's Bing.
23. Excursion to Cave Hill, Antrim, Lough Neagh.
24. Excursion to Downpatrick, Saul, Inch, &c.
25. To Armagh ; in afternoon to Dungannon.
26. By rail to Banbridge. Drive to Briansford.
27. AJscend Slieve Donard. Newcastle.
28. To Bostrevor. Warrenpoint.
29. Carlingford. Evening by rail to Dublin.
30. Excursion to Trim and Bective.
n. A TOUB THBOUGH CONNAUGHT.
1. Dublin to Mullingar. Multifamham. Lough Ennell.
2. Athlone. Lough Bea.
3. Clonmachnois ; in evening to Ballinasloe. ^
4. ]^llinasloe. Galbally. Kilconnell. Athenry.
5. Athenry Buins. Abbey Knockmoy. Tuam.
6. Tuam to Headford. Boss Abbey. Claregalway. Galway.
7. Galway.
8. Lough Corrib to Cong, Pigeon Hole, &c.
9. Excursion to Maume. Hen's Castle. Inchagoill. Betum to
Galway.
10. To Oughterarde and Becess. Ascend Lissoughter.
11. To Boundstown. Urrisbeg. Clifden.
12. See Clifden. Afternoon to Eylemore.
13. Ascend Twelve Pins.
14. Lough Fee. Salrock. Leenane.
15. Killaries. Delphi. Lough Doo. Ascend Muilrea.
16. To Westport. Clew Bay, &c. Aughagower.
17. Murrisk. Ascend Croagh Patrick.
18. To Achill. Sleep at the Settlement.
19. Ascend Croghan. Visit Keem, Dooega, &c.
20. Beturn ; see Burriahoole. Newport to Castlebar.
Ixvi VIII. Skeleton Routes, Inixod.
21. Excursion to Balla and Ballintober. The Ayle.
22. To Ballina by Pontoon and Foxford.
23. Eoserk. Moyne. Killala. Ballycastle.
24. Along the coast to Belmullet.
25. Beturn by Crossmolina to Ballina ; on to Sligo.
26. See Abbey. Town. Lough Gill.
27. Knocknarea. Glencar.
28. Boyle Abbey. Oarrick. Longford. Dublin.
ni. A TOUR OF SIX WEEKS THOUGH THE SOUTH.
1. Dublin to Kildare. Athy. Timahoe. Maryborough.
2. By rail to Roscrea. Parsonstown. Thurles.
3. Holy Cross. Cashel. J
4. To Limerick : see the city.
5. Killaloe. Castle Connell. ScariiT. Iniscalthra.
6. Excursion to Bunratty. Quin. Clare Castle. Ennis.
7. Carrigagunnell. Adare. Rathkeale.
8. Askeaton. Shanagolden. Foynes ; and by steamer to Kilkee.
9. Kilkee.
10. Return to Tarbert. Listowell by Ballybunnion Caves. Tralee.
11. Excursion to Dingle.
12. Visit early remains at Smerwick. Return to Tralee. Evening to Kil-
lamey.
13. Lower Lake. O'SuUivan's Cascade. Innisfallen. Ross, &c.
14. Agliadoe. Gap of Dunloe. Cummeenduflf.
15. Ascend Mangerton. Muckross. Tore.
16. Ascend Carrantuohill.
17. Cahirciyeen. Isle of Valentia.
18. To Waterville. Lough Curraun.
19. To Kenmare, Staigue Fort, &c.
20. To Glengarriff.
21. To Castletown Bearhaven. Adragoole Waterfall.
22. By water (if weather permit) to Bantry. Gougane Barra. Macroom.
23. T(f Cork.
24. See Cork. Afternoon to Blarney.
25. Kinsale. Bandon.
26. Queenstown. Cloyne Round Tower. YougliaJ.
27. Up the Blackwater to Lismore and Fermoy.
28. Mallow. Buttevant. Kilmallock. Sleep at Limerick Junction or
Tipperary.
29. Atliassel Abbey. Cahir.
30. Caves. Mitchelstown Castle. Ardfinane. Clonmel.
31. Clonmel. Ascend Slieve Naman, or visit Fethard.
32. Carrick. Coolnamuck. Waterford.
33. Excursion to Jerpoint. Thomastown.
34. Kilkenny.
35. Return to Inistiogue. By water to Ross. Tramore to Waterford.
36. Steamer to Duncannon. Dunbrody.
37. Duucaimon through Clonniines to Wexford.
38. Enuiscorthy. Arklow. Sleep at Wooden Bridge.
39. Vale of Avoca. Rathdown. Wicklow. Ashford.
Introd. VIII. Skeleton Routes. Ixvii
40. Devil*8 Glen. Annamoe. 7 Churches. "^
41. Vale of Glenmalure. Koundwood. Lough Dan.
42. Luggelaw. Sally Gkip. Glencrea. Enniskerry.
43. Powerscourt. Waterfall. Douce Mountain. Dargle.
44. Scalp. Cromlechs. KilUney. Kingstown.
IV. A WEEK S TOUR IN WICKLOW.
1. Dublin to Bray. Bray Head or Sugarloaf. KUruddery. Glen of
the Down.
2. Delgany. Killoughter. Ashford. Devil's Glen.
3. Wicklow. Bathdrum. Wooden Bridge. Shelton.
4. To Bathdrum. 7 Churches.
5. Glenmalure. Ascend Lugnaquilla.
6. Bound Wood. Lough Dan. Pollaphuca.
7. Luggelaw. Glencree. Lough Bray. Enniskerrx.
8. Dargle. Powerscourt Bray. Scalp.
V. A FORTNIGHT IN KERRY.
1. Dublin to Mallow. Mallow to Kanturk and MiUstreet.
2. Ascend Paps. Descend Valley of Mesk to KiUarney.
3. The Lake, &c.
4. Mangerton. Lough Guitane. Muckross.
5. Aghadoe. Dunloe.
6. Carrantuohill.
7. To Tralee and Ventry.
8. Ascend Brandon. Sleep at Dingle.
9. By water to Valentia {ii weather permit).
10. To WaterviUe.
11. Sneem. Kenmare.
12. Glengarriflf. Bantry.
13. Pass of Keimaneigh. Inchigeelah. Macroom.
14. To Cork.
VI. A WEEK'S TOUR IN CLARK
1. Dublin to* Limerick.
2. Limerick to Kilrush. Iniscattery.
3. Kilrush to Loop Head and up the coast to Kilkee.
4. Kilkee to Miltown Malbay.
5. Excursion to Slieve Callane and Ennis.
6. To Ennistymon. Liscannor.
7. Cliffs of Moher. Kilfenora. Corrofin. Ennis.
8. (Ennis to Killaloe. Up the Shannon to Athlone),
Vn. A WEEK ON THE BOYNE AND BLACKWATER.
1. Dublin to Enfield. Carberry and Edenderry.
2. Clonard. Trim.
3. Trim. Bective. Hill of Tara.
4. Trim to Athboy and Kells. Oldcastle. Virginia.
Ixx
IX. Glossary of Irish Woi'ds,
Grian Bottom of a sea
lach Salmon, [or lake.
I'ar Black. [we^t.
Also back, the
Inis Island.
Leacht Grave.
Leabhhar Book.
Leath Half.
Lia Stream or flood.
Great stone.
Loe A place.
Mam Mother.
Ma'm Hand or foot.
Meall Hill.
MUe 1000.
Mor Great.
Magh Plain.
Neall Cloud.
on Rock.
O'ir....
Kamhad
Bath ..
Ral .. ..
Righ ..
Einn ..
Enadh
Sean ..
Siol .. ..
Sliabh ..
Slieve . .
Sneacht
Soib ..
Suil.. ..
Sul .. ..
Ta'n ..
Tlacht
Tnr.. ..
IJiflg ..
}
Introd.
Golden.
Bead.
An earthen fort.
Plain.
King.
Point
Bed.
Old, ancient.
Tribe.
Monntain.
Snow.
Hand.
Eye.
Sun.
Counting.
Earth.
Tower.
Water.
HANDBOOK
FOB
IRELAND.
BOUTES.
*4,* The nam^ of plaoes are printed in italics only in those rentes where the |>2doet are
described. »
PAGE
and
ROUTE
1. Holyhead to Kingstown
Dublin ,
2. Dublin to Drogheda and Dun-
dalk
3. Dundalk to Belfast ....
4. Newrj to Belfast, through
Rostrevor and Doumpatrick .
5. Belfast to Donaghadee . . .
6. Dundalk to EnniskiUen and
Sligo . ,
7. EnniskiUen to Derry, by Omagh
8. Sligo to Strabane, through
Ballyshanmn and Donegal ,
9. EnniskiUen to Pettigoe, Done*
gal, and Killybegs . . . «
10. Strabane to Letterkenny,
Qweedore, Dunglow, Ardara,
and Killyb^ . . . . •
11. Londonderry to Gweedore,
through Dimfanaghy . . .
12. Londonderry to Bel&st, by the
Northern Counties Railway .
13. Colei-aine to Belfast, by Port-
rush, the Giants* Ccaiseway,
and Ballycastle «...
14. Dublin to Mullingar, Athhnef
Ballinasloe, and Galway . .
15. Edenderry and Eniiekl to
Drogheda, through Trim and
Kavan 129
16. Drogheda to Namn,KellSy and
Cavan, by Rail 142
17. Mullingar to Portadown,
through Cavan and Armagh . 147
18. Mullingar to Sligo, through
Longford, Carrick-on-Shan'-
non, and Boyle ..... 152
19
30
38
47
54
61
70
80
85
93
99
106
119
ROUTE PAGE
19. Athlone to i?oscommon. Castle-
reagh, Ballina, and Belmullet 159
20. Qalfjoay to Clifden, through
Oughterarde and BallynahirKh 164
21. Galway to ^a^mro&6 and West-
port 180
22. Clifden to Leenane, Westport,
and bligo 187
23. Dublin to Wexford, through
Wicklow, Arklow, and Ennis-
corthy 199
24. Dublin to Rathdrum and Ark-
low.— Tour through WicklwD 207
25. Dublin to Cork, by the Great
Southern and Western Railway 219
26. Dublin to Carlow, Kilkenny
and Wateiford, by Rail . .
27. Kilkenny to Athenry, through
Par^mstovm and Loughrea .
28. Wexford to Cork, through
Waterford, Dungarvany and
Yovghal 254
29. Youghal to Cahir, through
Lismore and Fermoy . . .
30. Limerick to Waterfoi-d . . .
31 . Mallow to Killarney and Tralee.
— ^The Lake op Killarney 277
32. Limerick to Tralee ....
33. Limerick to Boyle, through
-^wnis and Ttuxm ....
34. The Shannon, from Athlone to
Limerick 317
35. Killarney to Valentia and
Kenmare 324
36. Cork to Kenmare, vid Bandon,
Bantry, and Glengarriff . .331
37. Cork to Bantry, vid Macroom . 339
239
251
266
271
295
306
[Irdand.']
Boute 1. — Holyhead to Dublin.
Ireland,
ROUTE 1.
FROM HOLYHEAD TO KINGSTOWN
AND DUBLIN.
Few routes of travel, even in
these days of speed and comfort, can
show such palpable improvement
as that between Holyhead and
Kingstown. Instead of the old sail-
ing packet-boat, that made its cross-
ing subject to wind and weather,
the tounst is conveyed by magnifi-
cent steamers, each of 2000 tons and
700 horse-power, which perform the
distance of 66 m. in 4 hoaia, with
most undeviating regularity — the
punctuality that is kept, even in
stormy weather, being something
marvellous. The tourist will wonder
less at it perhaps when he knows
th^t, by the terms of the contract with
the Post OfELce authorities, a fine is
enforced of 348. for every minute
behind time, except in cases of fog.
The Leinster, Ulster, Munster, and
Connaught are four of the most, com-
fortable and splendid steamers to
be found in any mail-service; they
are also the speediest, the mea-
sured mile by which all steam-
vessels are tested having been tra-
versed by them at the rate of 18 knots
or 20. m. an hour; and the accom-
modations for landing, particularly
on the Dublin side, are so per-
fect that the traveller has nothing
to do bu{ step from one carriage into
the steamer, aad out again into an-
other on the opposite side. Two
packets leave Holyhead (Hotel :
Koyal) dudng the 24 hours, the
total distance from. London to Dub-
lin of 330 m. being performed in
about 10 hours by the express trains
and steamers. It may not be amiss
to advise the traveller by the night-
mail to secure his sleeping-berth
directly he puts his foot on board.
As the vessel emerges from the
harbour, it glides past the noble
breakwater, and the quames from
whence the stone for the works is
obtained ; then pest the Holy Head,
with its telegiaph-station, and the
Stack Rock, with its lighthouse. The
first 20 m. of the passage is gene-
rally rougher than the remainder,
owing to the prevalence of strong
currents in the Race of Holyhead.
In due course of time the distant
hills of the Emerald Isle loom in the
far west, disclosing, as the steamer
approaches near enough, a mag-
nificent panorama of the whole coast
from Baibriggan to Wicklow, with its
glorious groups of mountains catching
the rays of the rising or setting sun,
as the case may be. Nearer still, the
populous line of coast between Bray
and Dublin appears as though occu-
pied by continuous chains of villas.
To ihe 1. is the distant Lam-
bay Island, with Ireland's Eye, and
nearer home the Hill of How^ with
the Baily Lighthouse. Some 8 m.
from Kingstown vessels pass the Kish
Light) placed there to designate
a long chain of bank which runs
down the coast from Howth. The
tourist has scarce time sufficient to
drink in the exquisite views of the
Bay of Dublin, ere the steamer enters
the capacious harbour oi
Kingstown (Hotels : Royal, Angle-
sey Axma — both excellent), bSeuv
ing somewhat the same rekition
to Dublin that Clifbon does to
Bristol — a pleasant marine neigh-
bour, where much of the fashion of
Dublin migrates for fresh air and sea-
bathing, and many of the wealthier
citizens reside. Most of this portion
dates from 1821, when George IV.
embarked here, and gave permission
to change the name from Dunleary to
Kingstown. This fact has been com-
memorated in an ugly obelisk of
granite surmounted by a crovm.
The- HarhotMr, towards which Par-
liament advanced 505,0002., is a fine
Irelanh.
Boute 1. — Kingstown,
work, the first stone of which was
laid hy Lord Whitworth, the Loid
Lieutenant, in 1817. It embraces an
area of 251 acres, and is surrounded
by piers to the extent of 8450 ft. ;
these terminate towards the sea by
an inclined plane, so as to make the
thickness or the base 310 ft. At
the pier-head, where there is 24 ft.
of water at the lowest spring, is a
lighthouse showing a revolving light.
iVom the S. pier runs out a long
covered quay, called the Carlisle
Landmg Quay. This is laid down
with rails, to aUow the mail-packets
to exchange passengers at once with
the railway carriages, so that little
or no time is lost in the transference.
The whole of these massive works
were built with granite froni the
neighbouring quarries of Killiney
(Bte. 24). Immediately fronting the
entrance to the harbour are the St.
George's Club-house, the Royal Irish
Club-house, and the Railway Stat.,
which, with the fine open space
around them, contribute very much
to the handsome and bright look of
the place. This space is the rendez-
vous of the military bands, which in
the season play twice a week, and,
together with the Pier, forms a con-
stant promenade for the gay foUra of
Kingstown, who genersdly muster
in large nxmibers about the time of
the arrival and departure of the
7 o'clock evening jMtcket. This is
apparently the great event of the
day.
The town itself is straggling, most
of the houses fronting the sea being of
a superior class to those at the bsick,
after the fitshion of watering-places.
But the chief beauty of Kingstown is
in the neighbouring scenery, particu-
larly towefds the S., where a short trip
by rail, or a very moderate walk, will
enable the tourist to climb the steeps
of Killiney Hill, the antiquary to
visit Killiney ch. and a number of
piinor objects, and the geologist to
hammer away at the granite quarries
(Rte. 24). But the traveller who
has to make the tour of Ireland will
not have much time to spcure, so he
must enter the train en roiUe for DuIk
lin, 6 m. distant. This line, which
is now incorporated with and worked
by the Dublin and Wicklow Com-
panv, was opened first in 1834, and ex-
tended fi«m Kingstown to Bray in"
1854. To show the convenience that
it is to the public, it is sufficient to
mention that, in 1860, 2,200,000 pas-
sengers were conveyed by it. Al-
though the speed is not great, and
the stoppages are numerous, yet the
Kingstown line is pleasant, comfort-
able, and well managed —indeed, the
scenery in itself would indemnify the
traveller for a good deal of discomfort.
The line runs for the whole distance
along the curve of Dublin Bay, so
as to produce a constant succession
of charming views, while inland are
numerous terraces and villas, and
now and then a wooded park, with
occasional peeps of the Dublin Moun-
tains in the background. The sta-
tions on the line are at Salthill,
Blackrock, Booterstown, Foxrock, and
Sandymount— ^all of them accom-
modating a large suburban popu-
lation.
From Salthill, where Parry's is
a remarkably excellent hotel, and the
Lovegrove's of Dublin, the tourist
may visit Monkstown ch., a smgu-
larlv incongruous building — "an
edifice sui generis; outside it looks
somewhat of a mule between the
Gk)thic and Saracenic; the steeple
is surmounted by a cross, but the
summits have something of a cres-
cent." In the adjoining groimds are
ruins of old Monkstown Castle, one of
several defensive establishments built
to protect the vessels which lay in
Publin Sound, owing to tiie shallow-
ness of the Lifiey navigation. The
remainder of the neighbourhood can
be better visited from
Dublin (Pop. 254,513), which the
tourist enters at the terminus in
Westland Row.
The City of Dublin, the metropolis
B 2
BotUe 1. — Duhlin.
Ireland.
of Ireland, is situated on the shore of
Dublin Bay, and in the basin of the
Liftey, which, flowing from W. to E.,
divides the city into two equal parts.
In addition to this river, two or three
minor strtiims water it, viz., the
Tolka, which accompanies the Mid-
1 md Great Western Rly. on the N., and
flows into the bay above the N. Wall ;
the Dodder, which rises in the Dublin
Mountains, and, skirting the southern
suburbs, joins the Liffey close to its
mouth at Ringsend. Probably no
city in the world has such a magnifi-
cent neighbourhood as Dublia — par-
ticularly on the S., where it abounds
in mountain-scenery of a high order,
approaching the city sufficiently near
to form an appreciable background
in many of the street-views. Before
commencing anything like a de-
tailed survey ojf the city, it will be
as well to give a general outline of
the arrangements of the streets, so
that the tourist may be au fait as to
the leading thoroughfares. The
" watery highway " of the Liffey is a
great landmark which can never be
mistaken, as it divides the city into
the northern and southern portions . A
great thoroughfere, running N. and S.,
intersects the Liffey at rt. angles, con-
sisting of Rutland-square, ^ickville-
street, Carlisle-bridge, Westmoreland-
street, Grafton-street, and Stephen's-
green. As almost all the public
buildings are within a radius of
5 minutes* walk from one or other of
these thoioughferes, the tourist need
not fear losing his way to oay great
extent.
Hotels. — Dublin is largely sup-
plied with hotels, though, consider-
ing it as the metropolis, there are
not so many first-class establish-
ments as might be expected. It will
suflSce to enumerate a few. On the
N. side are, in Sackville-street, the
Bilton, a family hotel, very good;
the Gresham, good; Imperial, toler-
able; Prince of Wales, commercial,
but good and clean. On the S. side,
in Dawson-street : Morrison's, first-
class; Macken's, comfortable, and
much frequented by military men and
bachelors ; the Hibernian, very good.
In Stephen's Green, the Shelbiune (fe-
mily ) . In College Green, Jury's, com-
mercial (a good table-dTiote hero.
There are, of course, niunbers of others
of every grade, from the hotel to the
coffee-house, but the above will in-
clude everything necessary.
Street Conveyances. — Omnibuses
traverse special routes at stated times,
forming a pleasant way of visit-
ing the suburbs. The various routes
will be found in the official Railway
Guide ; but, wherever their destina-
tion, they almost invariably depart
from Nelson's Pillar in Sackville-
street. Cabs and cars are legion —
the former . are after the London
feflhion, but the cars, with their re-
speddve Jaryey8.are exclusively Dub-
lin. To see the city, a car must be
taken— the fiaures being but 6d. for
what is called a set-down, viz., a
drive to and from any plaxse within
the Corporation bounds, special bar-
gains to be made for stoppages or
hiring by time. As a rule, the Dub-
lin carmen ore civil and obliging
— considerably more so than their
confreres in London.
In describing Dublin in detail, we
should begin by its main artery, the
Liffey^ which, rising in the mountains
of Wicklow, near Sally Gap, takes a
circuitous course by Blessington, Kil-
cullen, and Newbridge, from whence
it flows nearly due E. through
Leixlip, with its salmon-leap (Rte.
14), the Strawberry-beds near Chapel-
Izod, and past the Phcenix-park,
where it may be said to enter
the city. A little before reaching
the Wellington Testimonial, it is
crossed by (1) the Sardh-hridge (after
Sarah Coimtess of Westmoreland,
who laid the first stone). It has one
fine elliptic arch, 104 ft. in diameter,
and is 7 ft. wider than the Rialto at
Venice. Close to the terminus of
the Great Southern and Western.
Rly. is (2) the King's-bridge, built
Ireland.
Route 1. — Bridges.
in- commemoration of G^eorge IV.'s
visit to Ireland in 1821. This also
is a single arch of 100 ft. span, witii
abutments of granite, and cost
13,000Z., collected by public sub-
scription. Passmg on 1. the Eoyal
Banacks, it reaches (3) Barrack-
bridge, which replaced one of wood,
known as the Bloody-bridge, and con-
sists of 4 semicircidar arches. The
name of the Bloody-bridge origi-
nated from a battle "between the
Buke of Lancaster and the Irish
under their King Art O'Cavanagh,
in which the English were defeated
with such slaughter that the river
ran red with blood for 3 days." (4)
The Queen's-bridge, built in 1768,
has 3 arches, and is 140 ft. in length.
Arran-bridge, which preceded it, was
swept away by a flood. A very an-
cient structure stood where is now
the (5) Whitworth-bridgc, built dur-
ing the rule of Lord Whitworth,
Viceroy in 1816. It was formerly
called, at different times, Old, Dublin,
and Ormond Bridge, and was rebuilt,
after a fiiU, in 1427, by the Domini-
cans, "for the convenience of their
school at Usher's Island. This
bridge, like the Arran, was swept
away by the flood in 1812. In sink-
ing for the foundation of Whitworth-
bridge, it was discovered that the
foundation of the Old Bridge rested
upon the ruins of another still more
ancient, which is supposed to have
been constructed in Bang John's
reign," — Currey. It may be men-
tioned that Church-street and Bridge-
street, the streets on either side, are
two of the oldest in Dublin.
Passing 1. the Four Courts is (6)
Richmond-bridge, of 3 arches of
Portland stone, and with an iron
balustrade. The heads on the key-
stones of the arches represent on one
side Peace, Hibemia, and Commerce ;
on the other. Plenty, the Liffey, and
Industry. The space on the N. be-
tween the Whitworth and Richmond
Bridges is almost entirely occupied
by the magnificent firont of the Four
Courts, forming one of the finest
views in Dublin.
(7) Essex-bridge was rebuilt in
1755, during the Viceroyalty of the
Earl of Essex. It is a fine bridge of
5 arches, &shioned after the model of
Old Westminster Bridge. The vista
at the S. end of Parliament-street is
formed by the colonnade of the Ex-
change.
(8) The Wellington, more oom-
monlv known as the Metal-bridge, is
a light iron bridge of one arch. A
toll is exacted here.
{9) The bridge par excellence of
Dublin is Carlisle, nearly in the centre
of the city, which the inhabitants of
Eblana consider, and not without
reason, as the point firom whence
the finest view of the public build-
ings and the river can be obtained.
It connects the two leading thorough-
fiajes of Sackville-street and West-
moreland-street. The view on the
N. embraces the former, with the
Nelson Pillar and the General Post-
oflSce; on the W. the niunerous
bridges, the Four Courts, and the
towers of Clirist Ch. and St. Patrick ;
and on the E. the docks crowded
with shipping, the quays, and the
Custom House. The oridge itself
consists of 3 arches surmounted by a
balustrade, and is 210 ft. in length.
From hence, the Liffey, bearing
numbers of ships on her bosom, flows
past the quays and the noble custom-
house to the sea. The long line of
quays on the N., firom whence most
of the steamers start, is called
the North Wall, and at tlie end
of it is a fixed light. The South
Wall begins at Ringsend, near the
mouth of the Dodder, and was
erected for the purpose of guarding
the harboiur against the encroach-
ments of the ^uth Bull Sands. It
is really an astonishing work, con-
sisting" of large blocks of granite
cramped together, and running out
into the E&y of Dublin for nearly
3i m. Half way is the Pigeon
House Fort and AJS(Hial, together
Bouie 1. — Dublin,
Ireland.
wiih a basin wliich was much in re-
quest prior to the formation of Kings-
town. At the very end of the wall
is the Poolbeg lighthouse, bearing a
fixed light.
To guard the harbour against the
sands of the North Bull, another
work, called the Bull Wall, was
erected. It runs from the coast
near DoUymount in a S.E. di-
rection to within a few hundred
yaids of the lighthouse. ** The com-
merce of the port of Dublin had in-
creased so much towards the close of
the last century that the accommoda-
tion afforded in the river for shipping
was found insufficient, and Parlia-
ment consequently granted 45,0002.
for forming docks on each side of it.
The docks communicating with the
Grand Canal on the S. side were
opened in 1796, and St. George's, the
latest of the Custom House docks, in
1821. These latter cover an area of
8 acres, have 16 ft. depth of water,
and 1200 yards of quayage, and are
capable of accommodating 40,000
tons of shipping, surrounded by
stores which wiU hold 8000 casks of
sugar and tobacco, and 20,000 chests
of tea, with cellarage for 12,000 pipes
of wine.** — Thorn, The duties raised
in the port in 1859 amounted to
1,066,2522.
The other water highways of Dub-
lin are the Royal C^nal, a branch
of which enters the city alongside
of the Midland Great Western
Rly., while the main channel follows
the course of the Circular-road, and
falls into the Liffey at the North
Wall. The Grand Canal makes a
corresponding ellipsis on the S. side,
and falls in at Kingsend with the
Dodder. At its mouth are the Grand
Caned Docks, which are well seen
from the Kingstown Rly.
Dublin possesses 5 rly. stats. : —
1. The terminus of the Kingstown
line at Westland Row offers nothing
of interest, either in architecture or
arrangement.
2. The Bray and Wicklow Stat, in
Harcourt Str. is a plain, but massive
Doric building, approached by a
broad flight of steps and a colonnade.
3. The Great Southern and Western
Stot. at Kingsbridge has a fine, though
rather florid Corinthian front, flanked
on each side by wings surmounted
by clock-towers. These 3 last are all
in the S. quarter of the city.
4. The Midland Great Western at
Broadstone is a heavy building, of
a mixture of Grecian and Egyptian
styles, which, together with the sad-
coloiured limestone, gives it a sombre
appearance.
5. The Drogheda terminus in
Amiens St. decidedly carries off the
EEilm for architectural beauty, with its
ght and graceful Italian &^de.
Most of the puUic buildings are
situated within a short distance of
each other. In fact, with a few ex-
ceptions, there is scarce 10 minutes*
walk between any of them ; and this
circumstance contributes to the noble
street views, for which the city is so
famous. Occupying the angles of
Westmoreland and Dame Strs., and
forming one of the sides of College
Green, is
The Bank of Ireland, which pos-
sesses an additional interest from
its having been the old Parlia-
ment House. It was purchased firom
the Government for 40,0002., after
the Act of Union, by the Bank of
Ireland Company. The whole of it
was built, though at three separate
intervals, during the last cent., at a
cost of nearly 100,0002. Externally
it consists of a magnificent Ionic fix«it
and colonnades, the centre occupying
three sides of a receding square. The
principial porch is supported by 4
Ionic pillars, and is surmounted by
a pediment with the Royal arms,
and a statue of Hibemia, with Fi-
delity and Commerce on each side,
the last 2 having been modelled by
Flaxman. The open colonnade ex-
tends round the square to the wings,
and is flanked on each side by a
Ireland.
Route 1, — Public Buildings.
lofty entrance arch. This main front,
which was the earliest portion of
the huilding, and said to have
been tiie design of Cassels, is con-
nected with the B. and W. fiujes by
a circular screen wall, with projecting
oolumns and niches in the intervals.
The E. front, looking down College
Green, was a subsequent addition,
and, by some inconsistency, possesses
a Corinthian porch of 6 columns.
Over the tympanum is a statue of
Fortitude. The W. front is the latest
of all, aud has an Ionic portico. Ad-
joining this side, which is in Foster
Place, is a guard-room, approached
by an archway with Ionic columns.
Internally the visitor should see the
principal Hall, or Cash Office, form-
ing the old Court of Requests, which
is entered through the main portico.
It is a handsome room, decorated
in the same classical style as the ex-
terior.
The old House of Lords is not
particularly striking. In the re-
cess where the throne used to be, is
ft statue by Bacon, of George UI., in
his Parliamentary robes. Of more
interest are 2 large tapestries of the
Siege of Derry and the Battle of the
Boyne.
By making special application to
the Secretary, an order can be ob-
tained to see the operations for print-
ing the notes, the machinery for
which is most ingenious.
The General Pod Office is an exten-
sive building on the W. of Sackville
St., and was built for 50,000Z. in
1815. In the centre is a portico, also
of Ionic character, witii 6 fluted
pillars and a pediment with the
Royal arms. Notwithstanding the
balustrade and cornice round the
exterior, the front has a bald appear-
ance.
The Custom House is on Eden
Quay, not far from Carlisle Bridge.
Externally it is the finest building in
Dublin, possessing 4 decorated faces,
of which the B., facing the river,
is, of course, the principal. This
front has a centre Doric portico,
with a sculpture in the tympanum of
the Union of England and Ireland.
They are represented as seated on a
shell, while Neptune is driving away
Famine and Despair. From the por-
tico extend wings, the basement por-
tion of which is occupied by open
arcades, while the summit is finished
oflf by an entablature and cornice.
Flanking each end of these wings
are 2 "pavilions," above which are
the arms of Ireland. The other
fronts are in the same style, but
plainer, and the carrying round of
the open arcades gives a very light
and gracefrd effect. The interior is
occupied by 2 courts and a cen-
tral pile of building, from which
springs a fine dome, crowned by a
monster statue of Hope. The Cus-
tom House possesses what very few
London buildings can boast, viz.,
an open space all roimd, so as to
allow it to be seen to advantage.
When all the different Boards of
Customs were consolidated into a
general department in London, this
building was well nigh emptied, but
is now used as offices for the Poor-
Law Commissioners, Board of Public
Works, and Inland Revenue.
The Exchange is in Cork Hill, at
the top of Dame St., and commands
from its portico a long avenue of
streets, looking down Parliament St.,
Essex Bridge, and Capel St. It is «f
the Corinthian order, and is a square
building of 3 fronts. The N. or
principal face has a portico of 6 co^
lumns. The entablature, which is
highly decorated, is continued round
the 3 sides, as is also an elaborate
balustrade on the summit, except
where interrupted by the pediment
of the N. portico. In the centre is a
door, though so low that it is scarcely
visible. , Owing to the rapid incline
of the street, the end of the terrace
at the W. is on a level with it, but on
the E. is considerably higher.
The interior is singularly arranged
in the form of a circle within tho
8
Soute 1. — Dublin,
Ireland.
square, and contains statues of
George III.; Dr. Lucas, some time
M.P. for Dublin ; Qrattan ; and
O'ConnelL
The Commercial Buildings and
Stock Exchange are in Dame St., but
do not offer anything very special.
The Four Courts is a splendid
and extensive pile, occupying the
whole area of King's Inn Quay, be-
tween the Richmond and Whitworth
Bridges. It was built at an ex-
pense of 200,0002. at the end of the
tat&t cent., a portion being the work
of Mr. Cooley, the architect of the
Boyal Exchange ; but after his death
the remainder was finished by Mr.
Gandon. It consists of a centre,
flanked on each side by squares re-
cessed back from the front, the conti-
nuity of which, however, is preserved
by arcades of rusticated masonry.
The principal front is entered imder
a portico of 6 Corinthian columns,
having on the apex of the pediment
a statue of Moses in the middle, with
Justice and Mercy on each side.
This leads into the central division,
which externally is a square block
of buildings, surmounted by a cir-
cular lantern and dome. Internally
the square is occupied by the 4
Courts of ChanceiT, Queen's Bench,
Common Pleas, and Exchequer, each
of which occupies one of the angles,
leaving tlie centre of the dome free,
to form a noble hall, which in term
time is the high 'change of lawyers.
The panels over the entrances to the
Courts exhibit : — 1. William the Con-
queror instituting Courts of Justice ;
z. King John signing the Magna
Charta; 3. Henry II. granting the
first charter to tne Dublin inhabi-
tants; -4. James L abolishing the
Brehon Laws. Between the windows
of the dome are allegorical statues of
Punishment, Eloquence, Mercy, Pru-
dence, Law, Wisdom, Justice, and
Liberty. Besides these 4 principal
Courts the wings and other por-
tions of the building contain several
minor courts and offices, which are
almost entirely consolidated in this
single locality. There, is, however,
another law establishment at the
King*8 Inn, fronting the Constitu-
tion Hill, and nearly opposite to,
though on a much lower level than,
the Great Western stat. Dublin did
not possess an Inn of Court until
the time of Edward I., in whose
reign Collet's Inn was established;
this was succeeded by Preston's
Inn, but both were In course of time
pulled down, obliging the societies to
migrate elsewhere. Towards the
close of the last cent, the present
building was raised. It consists of a
centre, crowned by an octanguleu* cu-
pola, and flanked bv 2 wings of 2
stories, surmounted by a pediment.
In this establishment are held the
Consistonal, Probate, and Prerogative
Courts.
The Cagtle is situated on high
^ound at the top of Dame-st., ad-
joining the Royal Exchange. Archi-
tecturally speaking, there is little
to admire in either of the 2 courts
round which the buildings are
grouped. Entering by the prin-
cipal gateway from Cork Hill is the
upper quadrangle, containing the
Viceregal apartments (on the S. side),
and the offices of the Chief Secretary
for Ireland and officers of the House-
hold. Between the 2 entrances on
the N. side the facade is surmounted
by a cupola, from the top of which
a flag is hoisted on State days.
The principal objects in the State
apartments are the Presence Chamber
and St. Patrick's Hall or Ball-room,
which contains a ceiling painted with
the following subjects : — St. Patrick
converting the Irish ; Henry U. re-
ceiving the submission of tne Irish
chiefs ; and (in the centre) George III.,
supported by Liberty and Justice.
In the lower coiurt are offices of the*
Treasury, Registry, Auditor-General,
&c. ; and on the S. side the Round
Tower and the Chapel.
The former building was erected in
place of one more ancient, known
Ireland. Boute 1. — The Castle — Trinity CoUege.
aa the Birmingham Tower, which
"was occasionally used as a State
prison. It is also called the Ward-
robe Tower, from the fact of the
Boyal robes, &c., being kept in it ;
but is now almost entirely occupied
"with the offices and staff of the Re-
cords, which include in their valuable
deposits the pedigrees of the nobility
of Ireland since Henry YIII. ; re-
cords of grants of arms ; plea-roUs of
all the Courts from 1246 to 1625;
records of the Parliament ; references
to all grants of manors, lands, titles,
£ajrd, markets, &c.
The Chapel is a single aisle, with-
out nave or transept, and is altogether
built of Irish limestone, in a style of
late Gothic. Externally notice the
decorations of heads, which are over
90 in number, including all the
sovereigns of Britain ; and over the
N. door the rather singular juxtapo-
sition of the busts of St. Peter and
Dean Swift.
^ It is lighted by 6 pointed
windows on each side and a fine
stained glass E. window: subject,
Chiist before Pilate. The present
building replaced an older one in
1814, at a cost of 42,000?.
The erection of Dublin Castle at the
commencement of the 13th cent, is
ascribed to Meyler Fitzhenry, natural
son to Henry II. ; and the completion
of it to Henry de Lowndes, Arch-
bishop of Dublin in 1223. It was
then built for and held as a fortress,
and was defended by a single curtain
wall and several flanking towers,
surrounded by a deep moat. In the
reign of Ehzabeth it was appro-
priated as the residence of the Vice-
roys, which honourable duty it has
ever since fulfilled, at least officially,
as it is 6nly on State occasions that
the Lord-Lieutenant makes his ap-
pearance here. The Castle may be
said to be the locale of the Irish
6k)vemment, as from hence all the
orders of the Chief Secretary are
issued, together with the direction of
af&irs, military, and police. The
courts are seen to best advantage in
the forenoon, when the guard is
changed to the pleasant accomjmni-
ment of a full band. The great ex-
citement takes place, however, during
the season, when the Viceroy givesi
his levees, to which all Dublin (tbjat
is ehgible) makes a point of goings
At the bottom of Dame St.,. and
forming a grand point of junction
for Dame; Grafton, and WestmorC'
land Sts., is
Trinity College, the cradle of much
learning and wit, and the Alma Mater
of as long a roll of names honour-
able in science and literature as any
seat of learning in the world can boast.
The principal front is a Corinthian fe^
cade, facing College Green ; whUe the
nmin premises, occupying altogether
an area of 30 acres, run back a cona^
derable distance, occupying the inter-
val between Nassau and Brunswick.
Sts. The interior is divided into
several quadrangles. The first, or
Parliament Square, contains the
chapel, marked externally by a oolon-i
nade of Corinthian pillars ; on the
S. side the theatre for examinations,,
in which are portraits of bene^
factors and one of Elizabeth, the
foundress of the University; also a
monument to Provost Baldwin, 1758,
who bequeathed 80,000Z. ; the re-
fectory, or dining-hall^ in which are
portraits of Henry Flood; Chief
Justice Downs; Grattan; Frederic
Prince of Wales; Cox, Archbishop
of Cashel ; Provost Baldwin, &c.
The Library y in Library Square, ia
a fine building, 270 ft. long, also of
Corinthian order. The interior is
conveniently fitted up for the purpose
of reading, and contains 10,600
volumes, together with many rare
curiosities, such as the Egyptiail
hieroglyphics collected by &ilt the
traveller. Connected with this room
is one in which is deposited the
Fagel Library, so called from its
having been the property of a family
of timt name in Holland. The
sanctum sanctorum, however, is the
6 3
10
Boute 1. — Dublin.
Ireland.
Manuscript -room, in which are
Archbishop U«her*a collection. Val-
iancy's Irish MSS., Johnston's Ice-
landic MSS., and Overbury's MSS.
of Persia. Of Irish MSS. " the col-
lection in Trinity College consists of
over 140 vols., several of them on
vellum, dating from the early part of
the 12th, down to the middle of the
last cent. There are also beautifid
copies of the Gospels known as the
Books of Kells and Durrow; and
Dinma's Book, attributable to the
6th and 7th cents. The Saltair of St.
Kicemarch, Bishop of St. David's in
the 11th cent., contains also an ex-
quisite copy of the Roman Martyr-
ology, and a very ancient Hiero-
nymian version of the Gospels, the
history of which is unknown, but
which is evidently an Irish MS. of
not later than the 9th cent. ; also the
Evangelistarium of St. Malins, Bishop
of Ferns in the 7th cent., with its
ancient box, and numerous Ossianic
poems relating to the Fenian heroes,
Bome of very great antiquity." — Prof.
O'Currey.
The Museum, over the entrance
gateway, contains a number of in-
teresting though miscellaneous ar-
ticles, and amongst them the harp of
Brian Boroimhe, whose son Do-
nogh presented it to the Pope in
1023. In his turn he gave it to
Henry VIII., who passed it over to
the firstEarlof01anricarde,and from
him through several hands, until it
finally rested here.
Besides the squares described, there
are Park Square and Botany Bay
Square, principally for the accom-
modation of students. On the N. side
of the former is the Printing House,
entered by a Doric portico.
To the S. of the Library is the
Fellows' Garden, with the Magnetic
Observatory, the first of the kind
ever established. The Transactions
of the British Association embody
most of the scientific observations
that have been carried on here by
Prof. Lloyd and the Irish astronomers.
Adjoining these gardens is a pleasant
pane for the use of the students, well
planted and laid out, and looking on
to Nassau St. At the W. end, facing
Grafton St., is the Provost's House.
The Univeraty dates from 1591, when
Archbishop Usher procured from
Elizabeth a charter and ** mortmain
licence for the site of the dissolved
monastery of All Saints." The con-
stitution of the Corporation at present
consists of a provost, 7 senior fellows,
28 junior fellows, and 70 scholars,
and the average number of students
is about 1500.
The Roman Catholic University is
situated on the W. side of Stephen's
Green. It is quite modem, having
been only established in 1854. Dub-
lin does not possess many public
statues or monuments. The princi-
pal one is
Nelson's Pillar, occupying a con-
spicuous position in the centre of
Sackville Street. It is a Doric co-
lumn, 134 ft. in height, the siunmit
of which is crowned by the statue of
Nelson leaning against the capstan
of a ship. It is worth ascending for
the sake of the panorama of the
city.
The Wellington Testimonial is de-
scribed at p. 14.
In College Green is a bronze eques-
trian statue of William III., on a
marble pedestal, — the object of ve-
hement adoration and hatred in
years gone by, when it was the
custom to decorate it with orange
ribbons, as the usual prelude to a
party fight. Fortunately the strong
arm of the law has stepped in to
control those passions which could
not be guided by moderation and
common sense.
In front of the Mansion House in
Dawson Street is an equestrian statue
of George I. In Stephen's Green
there is one of George II. ; and George
III. is placed in the Bank of Ireland
and the Royal Exchange. A memo-
rial to the late Sir Philip Crampton
has been placed at the top of Bruns-
Ireland* Boute 1. — Societies — National OaUery.
11
"wick Street ; and one to Goldsmith,
by Foley, in Trinity College.
The iioyal Dublin Society holds
its meetings in Kildare Street,
formerly tiie residence of the Dnke
of Leinster, the grounds extending
as far hack as the N. side of Mer-
rion Square. It boasts the honour
of being the oldest Society in the
kingdom, for it -was incorporated
in 1750, and has been in the enjoy-
ment of Parliamentary grants for
more than 90 years. The visitor
can see the library (which contains
30,000 vols.) daily, on introduction
by a member ; and the Natural His-
tory Museum on Mondays, Wednes-
days, and Fridays, free — on the re-
maining days on payment of 6d.
The Royal Irish Academy should
be seen bv every student of Irish
history and antia uities. Visitors axe
admitted on Weanesdays, Thursdays,
and Fridays, on a member's intro-
duction. The Museum contains a
complete and classified series of early
remains of all kinds that have
hitherto been found in Ireland, for
the admirable arrangement of which
not only the Academy, but every
antiquary owes a debt of gmtitude
to Sir W. Wilde, who has devoted an
immense amount of time and know-
ledge in rendering the Museiun not
80 much a collection of odds and ends,
as an exposition of the social features of
the country from the earliest times to
the present. The catalogue written
by'him is more a history of Irish An-
tiquities than a mere catalogue.
The visitor should pay particular
attention to the department of celts,
arrow-heads, and flint implements;
also some exquisitelybeautif ul earthen
mortuary urns, the work of which will
bear the most minute inspection.
Amongst the collection of gold orna-
ments is the Cross of Cong (Bte. 21),
'*made at Koscommon by native
Irishmen about 1123, and contain-
ing what was supposed to be a piece
(^ the true Cross, as inscriptions in
Irish and Latin in the Irish character
upon two of its sides distinctly re-
cord. The ornaments generally con-
sist of tracery and grot©Bque animals,
fancifully combined, and similar in
character to the decorations found
upon crosses of stone of the same
period. A large crystal, through
which a portion of the woiod which
the cross was formed to enshrine is
visible, is set in the 'centre, at the in-
tersection."— Wtlde.
The Museum of Irish Industry is
well worth a visit. It is on the E.
side of Stephen's Green, and contains
a series of geological, mineralogical,
and chemi^ specimens, to exhibit
the economic resources of Ireland.
It is also the head-quarters of the
Geological Survey, and no geologist,
about to visit the interior of the
country, should leave Dublin without
consulting the officers of the Survey,
who are at all times most ready and
anxious to furnish information. Ad-
mission is free.
The Irish National Gallery, on N.
side of Leinster Lawn, opened 1864,
is devoted to collections of works of
the Fine Arts, the lower story to
sculpture, the upper to paintings.
The cost has been defrayed by Parlia-
mentary grants to the amount of
21,0002., and 5000Z. from the Dargan
Fund. On the opposite side of the
S<|uare is the Museum of Natural
History. The bronze statue of Mr.
William Dargan stands on the site
of the Great Exhibition building of
1853, inaugurated by his munificence.
In addition to the Libraries of the
University, Irish Academy, and Dub-
lin Society, there is a public one
known as
Marsh's or 8t Patrick's Lihraryt
open to everybody, and situated close
to St. Patrick's Ciithedral. It con-
tains about 18,000 vols., and amongst
them the whole of the collection of
Stillingfleet, Bishop of Worcester,
which was purchased and placed
there by Archbidiop Marsh in 1694.
The Cathedral of Clirist Church is
situated a little to the S. of the river,
12 Batde 1. — Dublin — ChriaVs Church Cathedral. Ireland.
and to the W. of the Castle, in an
unprepossessing neighbourhood. It
is said to have been built in 1038 by
Sitric, son of Amlave, King of the
Ostmen of Dublin; and lest there
diould be any jealousy between the
two cathedrals, an agreement was
made tiiat Christ Church should have
the precedence as being the elder,
but that the Archbishops should be
buried alternately in the one and the
other. As it at present stands, since
the restoration in 1833, it is a vener-
able cruciform ch., consisting of nave,
transepts, and choir, with a rather low
tower rising from the intersection.
The principal entrance is in the 8.
transept, tliough a fine Norman door-
way. The nave, which is 103 ft. in
length, has a northern aisle. The
S. wall feu down in 1562, and was re-
placed by the present one, the erec-
tion of which is commemorated by a
Btone inserted in the wall.
The northern aisle is separated
from the nave by a row of beautiful
E. Eng. arches springing from piers
of clustered columns, and displaying
chevron mouldings; and said to bo
the most ancient portion of the cathe-
dral. Unfortunately their bases are
buried under the pavement. " The
capitals are particularly graceful
and elegant. They are composed
of the usual E. Eng. stiff-leaved
foliage, enclosing heads of bishops
and female saints. The mode in
wliich the slender shafts between
the larger ones are made to hold the
foliage that springs from them is
singularly beautiful. * ' The nave con-
tains the following monuments : to Sir
,^ Samuel Auchmuty; Thomas Prior,
1751, the friend of Bidiop Berkeley ;
Lord Bowes, Chancellor of Ireland,
1767 J Bishop of Meath, 1733; and
Lord Lifford, High Chancellor, 1789.
The most interesting one is that of
Strongbow and his wife Eva, with
the following inscription above it: —
•• This .avncyent : monvment ; of: Rych-
ard : i^traogbowe : called : Cofmes : Strangv-
leosU : Lord : of : Chepsto : and : ogny : the :
fyret : and : princlpall : invader : of : Irland ;
1169 : qvi : obiit : 1177 : the : monvment :
was : broken : by : the : fall : of : the : roff :
and : bodye : of : Crystes : chvrche : In : An :
1562 : and : set : up : agayn : at : the :
chargys : of : the : Right : Honorable : Sr :
Henlri : Sidney : Kny^t : of : the : Noble :
Order : L. : President : Walles : L. : Deputy :
of : Irland : 1570."*
i
The N. transept is remarkable for its
fine Norm, windows, which were re-
stored in 1833, when the whole of
the transept from the height of the
doorway was rebuilt. The choir is
separated from the nave by a screen,
on whi(ii is the organ. The interior
is rendered heavy by the ceiling being
intersected with quadrangular mould-
ings, with bosses at the intersections.
The objects worthy of notice in it are
an altar composed of green scagliola,
and &e monuments of the Earl of Kil-
dare and Francis Agard, 1577. The
musical service in Christ Church is
Earticularly good, and is held in
igh estimation by the citizens, who
always attend in great numbers.
Its younger sister, the Cathedral of
8t. Patrick^ is situated more to the
S., between Stephen's Green and the
district known as the Liberties.
It is a fine cruciform ch. with a
low tower surmounted by a granite
spire rising from the N.W. angle,
and is a good example of the Early
Pointed style. The spire, however,
is an addition of the last cent.
** The body of the ch. consists of a
nave with aisles ; a N. and S. tran-
sept, "each with a western aisle ; a
choir with two aisles of great length,
in comparison with the nave ; and a
Lady-chapel. The aisles of the
choir are carried out beyond the E.
end as &tr as half the length of the
Lady chapel, which, on the exterior,
appears almost detached, as it is so
much lower than tiie choir. The
latter is supported by flying but-
tresses over the aisles, one of which
at each angle is very remarkable
* Notwithstanding this inscription, the
armorial bearings seem to throw discredit
on the fact of the tomb being that of
Strongbow.
Ireland.
Boute 1. — SL PatricFs CatJiedral,
13
for the period at which it was
erected, being carried diagonally,
the usual mode being to have them
at right angles to the sides and
end." The expense of the restora-
tion has been entirely defrayed by
the princely munificence of one man,
A. Guinness, Esq., who has devoted
an enormous sum of money to this
noble work. It is to be regretted,
however, that some of the faults of
the old building have been per-
petuated in the new one. "Copy-
ing has been carried on with the
jnost praiseworthy care, but un-
fortunately the bad has been copied
with the same care as the good;
and to prove that this censure is
not unmerited, the N.E. angle will
show that B. Eng. pinnacles, which
have in late times been restored
with Perp. panelling, are retained
as genuine in the new restoration."
The nave is separated from the
side aisles by 8 pointed arches with
octagonal piers. The transepts, also,
have aisles separated by 3 arches.
The W. (Perp.) window was pre-
sented to the Cathedral by Dr. Daw-
son, the late Dean.
The choir is 90 ft. long, and is a
fine example of Early Pointed ar-
chitecture. ** It was formerly roofed
with stone flags of ar^ a^ure colour,
and inlaid with stars of gold; but
tlie weight of the roof being too great
for the support underneath, it was
removed, and discovered traces of 100
windows." — Cv/rrey, It contains the
throne of the Archbishop, and the
prebendal stalls and throne of the
Knights of St. Patrick, over each one
being the helmet, sword, and banner
of the order.
There is a good triforium, and the
arches in the S. transept ediould be
particularly noticed. The choir is
separated from the Lady Chapel by
a pointed arch with deeply recessed
mouldings and clustered columns.
St. Patrick's contains on the whole
a larger and more interesting selec-
tion of monuments than Christ
Church. The principal are those of
Archbishop Smith, 1771 ; Biahop
Marsh, the founder of the Ubrary ; the
Earl of Cavan, 1778; IVIrs. Hester
Johnson, otherwise * Stella,' the friend
of Swift. There is altio one of the
Dean himself, with an epitaph, the
bitterness of which sufliciently reveals
the autlior : —
" Vbi sjBva indignatio Tilterius cor lacerare
nequit."
In the choir is one of those immense
and massive monuments in which the
family of the Earls of Ccrk seemed
to dehght, and which contains 'a large
number of figmes, romarkable for the
freshness of the cf ilouriiig. In the up-
per part is Dean Wcoton ; and beneath
him, Sir Geoffrey Fenton and his wife.
Still lower are the Earl and Countess
of Cork, with 4 sons kneeling by them,
and at the bottom are tlieir 6 daugh-
ters, together with a child, supposed to
be Sir Kobert Boyle. Opposite 'this
gigantic tomb is a slab in mi mory of
Duke Schomberg, with an epitaph
by Swift, which gave mortal ofl'ence
to George I., who declared that '* the
Dean of St. Patrick s had put it there
out of malice in order to stir up a
quarrel between himself and the King
of Prussia, who had married Schom-
berg's granddaughter."
The remaining monuments of
note are those of Sir E. Fytton, Lord
President of Connaught, and; (in the
N. transept) of the 18th Royal Irish,
representing the death of Col. Tom-
Unson at Cliappoo, and the storming
the Pagoda at Rangoon. A portion of
the S. transept was formerly known
as the Chapel of St. Paul or the Old
Chapter House, and is said to have
been the prison of the Inquisition.
In it should be noticed the steps and
enamelled tUes leading up to the
altar. The approaches to St. Pa-
frick, which are very bad, and no
wonder, considering that it is situ-
ated in one of the worst parts of the
city, are about to be much improved.
In front of the S. transept a statue
(by Foley) to Mr. Guinness is to be
14
Boute 1. — Dvbltn,
IRELA.19D.
placed, and one to Dean Swift is
also in contemplation.
The organ is fine -toned, and
was originally built for a church in
Vigo.
Amongst the most noticeable of
the Dublin churches are the follow-
ing :—
On the S. side — 8t. Audoen*8t be-
tween Christ Church and the Corn
Market. Here are some good speci-
mens of Early Pointed architecture,
although in ruins ; the only portion of
the ch. that is used being the N. aide
of the ancient building, which con-
slBted originally of a double aisle,
separated by 6 octagonal columns,
supporting pointed arches. The choir
and side aisle were built by Lord Port-
lester, who also erected a tomb with
the recumbent figures of a knight
and his lady. This ch. is the bunal-
place of Dr. Parry, Bishop of Kil-
kloe; Sir Matthew Terrell, 1649;
and the Molyneux family ; and con-
tains several monuments of wood.
8t, Werberg*8t near the Castle,
has a mixed front and several stories
of the Corinthian and Ionic orders.
In the interior are monuments of
r ecclesiastics and knights; and in
the vaults lie the remains of Lord
Edward Fitzgerald, who died of
wounds received during his arrest in
1798. This ch., like its sister in
Bristol, is dedicated to St. Werberg,
daughter of Wulherus, King of
Mercia.
St. Andrew'Sf between Grafton and
Dame Streets, is now being rebuilt,
and will be, when finished, a beauti-
ful building. The old ch., which was
burnt down, was an imitation of Sta.
Maria di Rotonda at Kome, and was
generally called the Bound Church.
On the N. side of the Liffey are
8L Michan's, near the Four Courts,
the vaidts of which were celebrated
for the extraordinary powers of pre-
servation of the bodies within it. In
some cases the corpses of people who
had been buried for 30 years were
found to be perfectly free from decay.
a circumstance in all probability at-
tributable to the extreme dryness of
the vaults, and the ability of the
stones to resist moisture. la the in-
terior of the ch. is a monument to
Dr. Lucas, M.P. for Dublin, whose
statue is in the City HalL
In the very N. of the city near
Mountjoy Square, is 8t. Oeorge\
which has a lofty tower, steeple, and
Eortico, erected in 1802 from designs
y Johnston, at a cost of 90,00OL
The remaining chs. do not present
any very particular objects of inter-
est. They are St. Michael and St
John's, St. Kevin's, and St. Peter's,
all in the neighbourhood of Christ
Church and St. Patrick's ; St. Ann's,
in Dawson Street (where Mrs. H emans
and Csesar Otway are buried, and
where the musical service is well
done), ^t. Bride's, St. Mary's, St.
Stephen's (in Upper Mount Street)
St.Catherine's, St. James's, St. Paul's,
St. Luke's, and St. Mark's.
Of the Roman Catholic Chapels,
the tourist should see the Metro-
politan Chapel in Marlborough-st.
(a little to the E. of SackviUe-st.),
which has a Doric front with a hexa-
style portico raised on a platform,
and a pediment ornamented with
figures of the Virgin, St. Patrick, and
St. Lawrence O'Toole. The interior
has a nave and aisles, and a beautiful
white marble altar.
8t. Andrew's, near the Westland
Row Terminus, is worth visiting for
the sake of a fine group represent-
ing the Transfiguration, the work of
Hogan, one of the greatest sciulptors
that Ireland ever produced.
The Chapel of St. Saviour's, in
Dominick-st., has one of the most
elaborately decorated fronts in the
whole city, and a particularly elegant
rose window. A new chapel, in good
taste, has recently been built at
Phibsborough in the N. of the
city.
The Phcenix Park is the Utopia of
every citizen of Dublin, who believes
that there is nothing in the world like
Ireland. BotUe 1.^— Zoological Gardens — Botunda.
Id
it; it is in truth an. adjunct of which
any city might be proud, containing
an area of 1759 acres, of which 1300
are open to the public. The prin-
cipal objects in it are the Wellington
Testimonial near the S.E. gate, a
massive obelisk, on a pedestal of
granite, on the 4 sides of which are
panels and inscriptions commemo-
rative of all the victories gained by
the Duke during his long career.
The total height of the obelisk is
205 ft., .and the cost of it was
20,000Z. From the knoll on which
this memorial is placed, as also from
the Magazine Fort a httle to the E.,
some of the finest views of Dublin
are to be obtained.
In the N.E. portion of the park
are the Zoological Gardens^ which
contain a tolerable collection, to-
gether with the Lodge, which is
the principal residence of the
Lord Lieutenant, the houses of the
Chief and Under Secretary, and
the Constabulary Barracks. Near to
the W. are the Moimtjoy Barracks,
and on the 8. side is the Hibernian
Military School, where 400 boys, sons
of soldiers, are educated.
The western extremity extends as
far as Caatleknock, ana the Straw-
berry Beds on the N. bank of the
Lifiey. No tourist should quit Dub-
lin without taking a dhve round the
Park.
The Botunda, at the top of Sack-
viUe-st., is a fine series of public
rooms, used for concerts and meet-
ings. Externally, however, it is
eclipsed by the superior architecture
of the Lying-in Hospital, which has a
Doric facade fronting towards Great
BritainSt., and flanked on eachside by
Tuscan colonnades terminated by por-
ticoes. It is a matter of regret that
such a splendid line of building was
not placed a little more to the.E., where
it would have terminated the vista of
Sackville-st. Such was the original
intention, had not the foimder. Dr.
Moore, quarrelled with Lord Mount-
joy, who was the owner of the ground.
Eilmainham Hospital, a little to the
S.W. of Kinffsbridge, is buUt on the
site of the old priory of Eilmainham,
an' establishment of Knights Tem-
plars, in 1 174, and was turned into an
asylum for invalid soldiers in 1690.
It consists of a quadrangle encircling
a"* court, said to have been built
from designs by Sir Christopher
Wren. The visitor will see in the
dining-haU a collection of por-
traits of celebrities of the 17th and
18th cents. The altar-screen in the
chapel is of Irish oak, carved by
Grinling Gibbons.
The handsome building for the
Great Irish Exhibition of 1865 in-
cludes a Winter-Garden, fiUed with
beautiful plants. It was built at the
principal cost of Mr. Guinness.
The remaining institutions of
Dublin are the Royal College of
Surgeons on the E. side of Stephen's
Green (the Anatomical Museum
of which is well worth seeing),
Stevens' Hospital, City Hospi^,
Sir Patrick Dunn's, Simpson's,
Mercer's, Swift's Hospitals, Eich-
mond Lunatic Asylum, and many
others of lesser note; indeed, few
cities are so well provided with institu-
tions and societies for charitable pur-
poses of aU sorts. The antiquary will
perhaps be disappointed in the modem
aspect of Dublin, and in the few old
buildings that remain. Indeed, with
the exception of the ancient Ajchie-
piscopal Palace in Kevin-st., now
used as a police barrack, there are no
houses left prior to the commence-
ment of the last cent. The Liberties
will however furnish many specimens
of the time of Queen Anne, particu-
larly in Rainsford-st. They were
once the abode of the rank and fashion
of the period, but at present the popu-
lation that inhabit tiiem are not of the
choicest description, and the tourist
may possibly obtain from them more
notice than may be agreeable. Suf-
ficient has now been mentioned to
point out the leading and most in-
teresting features of the city, and it
16
JRoiUe 1. — Dublin,
Ireland.
only remains to direct the visitor to
the things most worth seeing in the
suhurhs : —
1. Kingstown by rail has been
already described (p. 2). Trains run
every -f hour through the day.
2. To Clonskea, Sandford, and
Ranelagh, there are omnibuses from
Nelson's Pillar. The route is through
"Westmoreland St., College Green, rt.
Bank, 1. Trinity College, Grafton St.,
Stephen's Green, Harcourt St., and
Charlemont St., at the end of which
the Grand Canal is crossed.
2^ m. Donnybrook, on the N. bank
of the Dodder, is celebrated for its fiair,
which with its noisy mirth and pug-
nacity has become Imown throughout
all the civilised world as the arena
for breaking heads : —
** An Irishman all In his glory was there.
With his sprig of shillelagh and shamrock
so green. '
It is now fortunately abolished, for,
though the humours of Donnybrook
were many, they were far counter-
balanced by the riot and misery that
the fair occasioned. ' Continuing S.
this road leads to Stillorgan, passing
a great many villas and residences,
amongst which that of Mount Mer-
rion, belonging to the late Iiord
Herbert of Lea, is conspicuous on rt.
3. To Bath&irnham, the greater
portion of the distance is traversed
by omnibus every J of an hour from
Sackville-st.
2 m. Rathmines is a very populous
and respectable suburb, although
it formerly had an infamous noto-
riety for the slaughter of the early
English colonists of Dublin by the
Irish of Wicklow. The route fol-
lowed is the same as in the last
up to the end of Harcourt St.,
where there is a divergence to the
rt., the Bathmines road crossing the
canal near the Portobello Barracks.
At 3 m. Round Town, a road to
rt. is given oflf to Blessington and
Naas, while that to Rathfamham
runs S., passing rt. Terenure House
and crossing the Dodder. .
3f m. Rathfamham. Here is the
College of St. Columba, for tlie edu-
cation of students for the Protestant
ministry. The castle was formerly
the seat of the Loftus family, but
now of Lord Justice Blackbume.
The grounds are pretty, and worth
driving through. If the tourist wishes
to ascertain what romantic scenery
exists near Dublin, he may follow
up the Dodder to its source in
Glanasmole, or the Valley of the
Thrush, a river which Wordsworth
was accustomed to say was not much
inferior to the Duddon. Southward
the road leaves to 1. the Loretto Con-
vent, and continues through Will-
brook to Bray, passing 1. Marley
(D. La Touche, Esq.), then on rt
Mount Venus with its cromlech, and
so through the Scalp (Rte. 24).
4. To Lucan, through Chapel leod
and Palmerstown, the road runs
past the Royal Hospital of Rilmain-
ham, and crosses the Great Southern
and Western Rly. at Inchicore.
Chapel Izod is supposed to have
obtained its name from La Belle
Isode, a daughter of one of the Irish
kings who possessed a chapel here.
The lands that formerly belonged
to the Knights Templars of Kilmain-
ham, came into the possession of the
Knights of Jerusalem until the dis-
solution of the monasteries, when
they were purchased by the Crown,
and taken to enclose the Phoenix
Park, which, though on the opposite
side of the river, is in this parish.
A little further on is PalmerstoWn,
which gives the title to the family
of Temple. Adjoining the village are
Palmerstown House and St. Law-
rence House, both on tiie S. bank
of the Liflfey.
9 m. Lucan (Rte. 14).
5. To Olondalkin, by road either
from Kilmainham, turning off from
the Lucan road at Inchicore, or by
a more southerly course near the
village of Crumlin. 3J m. on rt. is
the well-preserved castle of Drim-
nagh, a remarkably perfect bawn
Ireland.
Bonte 1. — Suburbs,
17
and fosse. It was considered a
place of great strength dnring the
rebellion of 1641.
6J m. Clondalkin, a pretty village
and station on the Great Southern
and Western Rly., is famous for its
round tower, the construction of which
Dr. Petrie likens to that of Bronllyg
GasHe in Breconshire. Clondalkin
la remarkable for its projecting base
nearly 13 ft. in height, and com-
posed of solid masonry. " The aper-
tures are all quadrangular, the jambs
of the doorway inclining as in those
of the oldest churches." The total
height is 84 ft.
The abbot St. Mochna, who lived
in the 7th cent., was ttie founder
of the see of Cluain Dolcain,
an ecclesiastical establishment of
great importance. Nothing is now
left to mark it but the tower, and a
granite cross in the chyard. The
tourist can return to Dublin by raiL
6. The road to Blanchardstown is
on the N. bank of the river, imme-
diately opposite the preceding and
skirting the w;hole length of the
Phoenix. It then passes the gate of
Knockmaroon, and through l£e vil-
lage of Castleknock to Blanchards-
town 6 m. (Rte. 14).
7. Glasnevin (Glaseen-even, "the
pleasant little field ") is a very pretty
northern suburb; the way to it
ninning past the Midland Great
Western Stat at Broadstone and
then through Phibsborough. It
next crosses the Lifiey branch of the
Royal Canal, leaving on 1. the
Prospect Cemetery, where, amongst
many other celebrities, the remains
of John Philpot Curran lie buried.
A very ugly and conspicuous Round
Tower has been erected to tbe me-
mory of O'Connell.
Glasnevin is famous for its bo-
tanical gardens, which are upwards
of 30 acres in extent, and contain a
fine collection of exotic plants. The
visitor should endeavour to see the
ferns in the possession of the curator,
especially the Trichomanes radicans,
the fern peculiar to Killamey. The
demesne now occupied by the gar-
dens originally belonged to Tickell
the poet, who resided here ; indeed,
this was a favourite neighbourhood
amongst the litt^teurs ol those days,
for it boasted the residences of Addi-
son, Swift, Delany, Steele, and Par-
nell.
To the 1. is the Observatory of
Dunsink in connection with Trinity
College, where the Professor of Astro-
nomy has a residence. The tourist
should visit it for the sake of the
glorious view obtainable from the ele-
vated knoll on which the building
is placed.
On tiie opposite bank of the Tolka
is Glasnevin House, the seat of Hon.
G. Lindsay.
The village of Finglas, where there
is an ancient cross, is not only cele-
brated for its early origin, which is
believed to date very nearly from
the tim^^ St. Patrick, but in later
times was the scene of May sports,
which attracted all the world, and
were probably the relics of the
Pagan *' ferisB."
8. A mail car goes every morning
to Swords (Rte. 2), passing the vil-
lage of San try, and Santry House, the
seat of Sir Charles Domville, Bart.
9. To Howth and Malahide by
rail, Rte. 2.
10. To aontarf and Dollymount
omnibuses run every half hour from
Sackville-st. The road first crosses
the Liffey branch of the Royal Canal,
and then the Tolka by Aunesley
Bridge, leaving to the L the Convent,
with Drumcondra Ch. and CasUe
(Lord J. Butler). The chief attrac-
tions of Clontarf (anc. Cluain-tarbh)
are Marino, the seat of the Earl of
Charlemont, and Clontarf Castie
(J. E. Vernon, Esq.), a beautiful
mansion of " mixed Elizabethan and
castellated styles." Here was fought
the great battie of Clontarf on Good
Friday, 1014, between the Danes un-
der Sitric, and the Irish under their
king Brian Boroimhe, who received
18
Bouie 1. — Dvblin — History,
Ireland.
his death wound on this occasion,
together with 11,000 of the flower of
his anny. The Irish, notwithstand-
ing their loss, were triumphant, and
tiie decline of the Danish power may
be dated firom this action, although
it was not immediately extinguished.
At DoUymount a visit can be paid
to the Bull wall and pier, which
protects the harbour of Dublin fh)m
the sands of the N. Bull (p. 6).
Conveyances from Dublin : — In
addition to the local services esta-
blished for the use of the city,
railways radiate to all quarters
of the compass t 1. To Drogheda,
Dundalk, Newry, and Belfast, by the
Dublin and Drogheda line in Amiens
St. ; 2. To Mullingar, Cavan, Long-
ford, Athlone, Roscommon, Oastle-
bar, Sligo, Westport, Ballinasloe,
and Galway, by the Midland Great
Western (Broadstone) ; 3. To Kings-
town, Bray, and Wicklow, from West-
land Row and Harcourt St. ; 4. Kil-
dare, TuUamore, Maryborough, Kil-
kenny, Waterford, Mallow, Killar-
ney, Tralee, Limerick, Cork, by the
Great Southern and Western (Kings-
bridge). Coaches and cars to Ash-
town, Baltinglass, Blessington, Wex-
ford, and Euniskerry. By steamers
to Holyhead daily; to Kingston 5
times a day; Belfast weekly; Fal-
mouth, Plymouth, Portsmouth, and
London, bi-weekly ; Belfast and
Glasgow 3 times a week ; Liverpool
daily ; Whitehaven bi-weekly ; Wex-
ford weekly ; Bristol weekly ; SUloth
weekly.
A brief notice of the history of
Dublin may not be uninteresting,
cdthough to give it in detail would
be to write the history of Ireland.
The name of Eblana is occasionally
eiven it, because a city of this name
18 mentioned as existing in the
same latitude by Ptolemy ; but with
more probability it acquired its appel-
lation from Duibh-linne, the Black-
water ; " in fact, so called from a lady
named Dubh, who had been formerly
drowned there. The Danish or
English name Dublin is a mere
modiflcaiion of Dubhlinn, but the
native Irish have always called, and
still do call the city Ath Cliatii, or
BaU^ Atha Cliath, the Ford of
Hurdles, or the Town of the Ford
of Hurdles. " — O' Cmrey, In the time
of St. Patrick, the Danes, or Ostmen,
were weU established as merchants,
as we hear of his celebrating mass
in one of the vaults of the cathedral
built by them for storehouses. In
the 9th cent., however, they en-
tered as conquerors, and from this
date the annals of Dublin present
very stormy details of wars and
fi^ts between the Ostmen and the
native Irish. But the power of the
Danes in Ireland received its great
overthrow at the battle of Glontarf
(p. 17), although they still kept
possession of the city and founded
Christian churches in the reign of
Sitricus, 1038.
In the same cent. Godred, King ctf
Man, overran Dublin, and for some
years exercised his sway. But on his
death we find the city in the hands
of native Irish rulers until the in-
vasion of Wexford by the English in
1169, who under Strongbow occu-
pied it with the ostensible view of
assisting MacMurrough, King of
Leinster, against his enemy Roderio
O'Connor,
The principal subsequent events
were — ^tiie arrival of Henry H., who
granted a charter to the inhabitants ;
the erection of the castle by King
John; the attack and partial de-
struction of Dublin by Edward
Bruce in 1315 ; the rebellion of Lord
Thomas Fitzgerald, commonly called
Silken Thomas, during the reign of
Henry VIII. ; the landing of Crom-
well in 1649 ; and the insurrection of
Robert Emmett in 1803. The in-
tervals between these dates, especially
up to the 17th cent., were charac-
terised by repeated outbreaks and
attacks made by native Irish, who
presumed on the weakness of the
government.
KOUTE 2.
FBOM OUBUN TO DROGHEDA AND
DUNDALK.
The Dublin and Drogheda Ely.
(opened in 1849) is the first
link in the great northern chain
that connects Dublin with Belfsist,
and is, so feir, of importance, although,
the length of the whole line, includ-
ing the branches toHowth and Old-
castle, is not more than 71m. Starting
&om the stat. in Amiens-street, a very
graceful building with an Italian fa-
cade^ the rly. is carried through the
K.B. part of the city on a viaduct,
crossing the Royal OEinal by a fine
iron lattice beam bridge of 140 ft.
span, and soon emerging on the sands
of Clontarf Bay, which are traversed
by an emban^ent 30 ft high. On
L is a granite bridge of 3 arches,
known as the Annedey Bridge, over
the Tolka river, which here empties
itself into the bay. From the em-
bankment a very charming pano-
ramic view is gained on every side,
embracing the city with its forest of
masts and chimneys, and the whole
coast as &r as IQngstown, backed
up by the Dublin and Wicklow
Mountains, while inland are nume-
rous villas and handsome seats. On
L is the gateway of the mansion of
Marino, the seat of the Earl of
Charlemont ,* and rt. is the pleasant
suburb of Clcmtarf, with Clontarf
Castle (J. E. Vernon, Esq.), and
many other residences ; but as there
is a regular communication by omni-
bus from this place and Dollymount
to the city, it is described in the
environs of Dublin (Rte. 1).
At 1| m. the line crosses the
Howth turnpike-road, having on 1.
Mount Temple and Donnycamey
£[ouse, and soon enters the deep Kil-
Ireland. M(yuie 2. — Dvblin to Drogheda and Dundalk. 19
lester cutting in the black calp lime-
stone, through which it is carried for
1^ m. to Balieny. On 1. of the rly.
is KiUester ruined ch. and abbey,
the latter the seat of D. Nugent,
Esq. Artane (T. Alley, Esq.),
i m. 1., was the scene of a cruel
murder perpetrated in 1533 on Juhn
Allen, Arcnbishop of Dublin, and
one of Wolsey's proteges, when flying
from the resentment of Lord Thomas
Fitzgerald. "It is universally sup-
posed that Fitzgerald, moved wiih.
compassion, and intending only to
have the prelate imprisoned, cried
out to the people in Irish, *Take
away the clown,' but the attendants,
wilfully misconstruing his words, beat
out the bishop's brains." On rt,
close to the Ime, is Furry Park (T.
Bushe, Esq.), formerly the seat of the
Earl of Shannon.
3f m. Bdheny Stat, or more properly
Batheny, from its situation near an
ancient rath, still to be traced.
In the neighbourhood are Raheny
Park (T. Gresham, Esq.), and SyWl
Hill (J. Barlow, Esq.). From hence
the line passes through an undulating
country, occasionally affording plea-
sant peeps of coast scenery.
4| m. Junction Stat. [From this
point the rly. to Howth turns off to
rt. On the shore are the remains
of Kilbarrock Ch., once the votive
chapel for all mariners of the bay of
Dublin. It contains some roimd-
headed and pointed arches. In the
13tli cent, the manor was held by the
tenure of presenting a pair of furred
gloves to the king.
6f m. Baldoyle Stat. From the
bridge, crossing the line, there is a
very lovely view of the promontory
of Howth, with the rocl^ island of
Ireland's Eye a littie to the N.
On rt. is Sutton, famous for its bed
of oysters. Large quantities of dolo-
mite or magnesian limestone have
been quarried from the rocks in this
vicinity.
Sim. Howth, HofeZ; Royal. The
hill of Howth, so dear to all the
20
Bouie 2. — Howth — Harbour — Castle.
Ireland.
inhabitants of^Dublin, is "an ele-
vated promontory connected with
the mainland by a sandy isthmus,
and forming the northern entrance
of Dublin ;^y, over which it is ele-
vated 660 ft. above low-water mark."
The town, which is on the N. side,
consists of one street running along
the edge of the cliff, and overlooking
the Harbour, 52 acres in extent,
and enclosed by 2 fine piers. Owing
to the difficulties of the under-
taking, the cost was very great (no
less than 300,0002.), a large portion of
which might have been saved by the
choice of a more judicious spot. It
once enjoyed the advantages of being
the point of arrival and departure
for the English packets, but since
the selection of Kingstown the trade
of Howth has become very small,
and chiefly confined to coasters;
indeed, vessels of any magnitude
cannot enter, and even small ones
find the anchorage too hard for them.
There is a fixed lighthouse at the
entrance of the harlSur, The ch., or
abbey, is situated on a precipitous
bank above the sea, and is surrounded
by a strong embattled wall. It is of
the date of the 13th cent., and is a
single-bodied building, the nave se-
parated from the aisle by 6 pointed
arches, the 4 most westerly of which
spring from rude quadrangular
piers. The W. front is entered by
a round-headed doorway, and sur-
mounted by a bell-tulret of 2 stages.
" The porch in connection with the
northern doorway is a very unusual
feature in Irish churches, a fiu3t not
easily to be accounted for, as they
appear to have been common in
England during every age of Gothic
architecture." — Wakeman. Howth
Ch. was founded in the 13th cent, by
a member of the family of St. Law-
rence, who held the manorial estates
of Howth, and whose original name
W£i8 Tristram. It is related of Sir
Armoricus Tristram that, being about
to encounter the Danes at Clontarf,
he made a vow to St. Lawrence, the
patron saint of the day, that he would
take his name as a surname if suc-
cessful. The tomb of Christopher,
20th Lord Howth (1580), stands in
the nave, near the E. gable. It is
an altar-tomb, containing recmn-
bent figures of a knight and lady,
the former with his feet resting ot.
a dog. On the sides are the armorial
bearings of the St. Lawrences and
Plunkets. The Castle (the seat of
Lord Howth) is on the W. side of
the town, and is a long and irregu-
lar battlemented building, flanked
by square towers. The hall contains
a collection of weapons, and amongst
them the 2-handed sword said to
have been wielded by Sir Armoricus
on the occasion of the battle of Clon-
tarf. Seeanfe. There isalso a painting
representing the abduction of young
Lord Howni by Grace O'Malley, in
the time of Elizabeth. Having landed
at Howth, she requested the hospi-
tality of its lord, which was refused,
the family being at dinner with the
doors shut. She therefore seized the
son and heir and carried him off to
her castle of Oarrigahooly, where she
detained him imtil she had ex-
tracted a promise from Lord Howth
that the gates of his castle should
be always thrown open during meals.
In the upper apartments is the bed
used by William III. on his visit to
Ireland. The whole of the peninsula
of Howth has been in the hands of
the present fiewnily ever since their
eai*liest arrival from England in the
13th cent. The walk through the
groimds leading up to the hills is
very charmillg.
An excursion of 2 m. across the hills
will bring the tourist to the Baily
Lighthouse, one of the most pro-
minent objects that greet the
Englidi traveller by night or day as
he approaches the bay of Dublin. It
is finely situated on a peninsulated
perpendicular rock,110 ft. above high- '
water mark, and in form ia,a frustrated
cone, exhibiting a fixed white light.
In an adjoining room a telescope is
Ireland,
Boute 2. — Howth — Ireland's Eye^
n
kept " by means of which the shoals
wmch obstruct the entrance Jo the
bay may be observed, viz. the Great
Kish, the Bennett, and Burford Banks,
which are links of the chain extend-
ing along the Wicklow and Wexford
coasts, and known as the Irish
Grounds. " It was erected in 1814, the
light that previously existed on the
summit of the hill being uncertain on
account of the mists which so often
shrouded the head. An ancient
, stone fortress formerly occupied the
site of the Baily Lighthouse, from
whence the name (Ballium) was pro-
bably derived; and it is believed
that these remains, which are still
faintly visible, indicated the resi-
dence of Criomthan Nia-nair, who
reigned over Ireland about the year
90 ; and whose sepulchral cairn
crowns the summit of Sliath Mar-
tin. The whole of the coast scenery
on the 8. of Howth Head is very
fine, particularly at the so-called
** Lion's Head," and the Needles
or Candlesticks, some bold isolated
rocks, a little to the W. of the Baily.
Indeed it would be difficult to over-
rate the beauty of the views from any
part of the hill, but more particularly
towards the S., extending over the
magnificent sweep of DubUn Bay
and the WicJflow Mountains. On
the eastern side of Ben Howth,
which rises in the centre of the pro-
montory to the height of 560 ft., is
8t. Fintans Ch., a remarkably small
building of the date of the 13th cent.
Internally it measures only 16J ft.
by 7 ft. 8 in., and is lighted by 5
windows of various forms, deeply
splayed in the interior. There is a
lancet doorway in the W. gable,
which is surmounted by a dispro-
portionate bell-turret. A little dis-
tance off is the well of St. Fintan.
Between this ch. and Howth Castle
is a large dismounted cromlech, once
formed of 10 supporters, and covered
by a quartz block, 8 ft. in depth and
about 18 ft. square. There are 2
Hotels on the peninsula besides the
one in Howth, viz. Byron's, near
Sutton, and the Baily, near the light-
house. As regards geological posi-
tion, the coast of Howth afi&rds clear
sections of Cambrian rocks, princi-
pally quartz, separated from each
other by bands of greenish-grey
slate dipping to the S.W. At a point
'called the Cliffs, on the S. coast, is
a large green homblendic dyke;
while the formation of the Needles is
of quartz rock resting on porphyritic
greenstone. At the extreme end of
the Nose of Howth, on the N.B., Dr.
Kinahan found Oldhamia antiqua.
The hills in the centre of the district,
such as Ben Howth, Loughoreen,
Dang Hill (on which is the old light-
house), are also formed of thick beds
of quartz. "Taking Howth as a
whole, it presents hardly a feature
in common with the Cambrian rocks
of Wicklow or Wexford, with the ex-
ception of some of the quartz rock
masses, and the occurrence of green
grits and slates at some points.
Whether Cambrian or Silurian, it
seems to occupy a horizon distinct
from any rocks hitherto examined
on the eastern coast." — Geological
Survey. Towards the N. and W.,
from the harbour of Howth to the Sv
part of the southern shore, the car-
boniferous rocks (lower limestone)
are visible. Erica cinerea and As-
Eleniiun maximum have their habitat
ere.] 1 m. to the N. of Howth
is the small island of Ireland's Eye,
a wedge-shaped mass of quartz rock
resting on contorted Cambrian grits,
forming a good natural breakwater
for the harbour. It contains the
ruins of* an ancient chapel founded
in the 6th cent, by St. Nessan,
which was famous for possessing a
copy of the 4 Grospels, called the
"Garland of Howth,". and of great
sanctity. Not msmy jeoxs ago the
island obtained a less enviable noto-
riety from a terrible murder com-
mitted there, known as the Kirwan
tragedy.
From the Howth Junction the
li
22
BotUe 2. — St, DouUmgh — Maldhide. Ireland.
line continues northward, having
on 1. Grange House ; and crosses
the Mayne river to 6| m. Port-
mamock, a small village close to
the shore, which is of so smooth a
character as to have obtained the
name of the Velvet Strand. The
botanist will find here Ammi majus,
Alyssum minimum, Equisetum varie-
gatum, Oarex extensa, Schienus ni-
gricans.
The singular ch. of St. Dcu-
loughs 1 m. 1., has puzzled anti-
quaries from the incongroity of its
s^le, uniting the high stone roof
01 very early Irish date, with the
pointed features of the 13th cent.
It is an oblong ch., 48 ft. in length,
from the centre of which rises a low
square tower with graduated battle-
ments. ** A projection on the S. wall
of the tower contains a passage lead-
ing from the upper part of the build-
ing to an exceedingly small chamber,
in the eastern wall of which are 2
windows, one commanding the only
entrance to the ch., the other an
altar in an apartment or chapel
between the tower and the W.
gable." — Wdkeman, At the E. is
a 2-light pointed window, while
another of the same date, Imt with
cin^uefoil heads, occupies a singular
position near the base of the S. side
of the tower. **The vaults of the
lower apartments form the floor of a
croft, occupjring uninterruptedly the
whole length of the building. The
roof is double, of an extremely high
pitch, and between the 2 is a small
dimly-lighted chamber.*' The ch. is
now undergoing a process of restora-
tion, which it sadly needed. The
Well, outside the chyard, is covered
in by an octagon-shaped, stone-roofed
building, and has a circular interior,
formerly decorated with religious
paintings. Close by are a stone
cross, and a subterranean bath
known as St. Catherine's Pond.
7^ m. 1., in the grounds of Grange,
are the remains of an ancient fort.
Still more on the 1., conspicuous
by a 'windmill on its summit, is the
hiU of Feltrim, in the mansion-house
of which James II. passed a night on
his flight from the Bo3me. Passing
Hazelbrook (A. Norman, Esq.).
Beechwood House (B. TrumbuU,
Esq.), and Broomfield, beyond which
on the shore are remains of a castle
known as Boebuck or Bob's Wall,
the line arrives at
9 m. MaUHiide {Hotel: Boyal,
good), a somewhat dull bathmg-
place, frequented by the inhabit-
ants of Dublin, and situated at
the mouth of a considerable estuary,
called Meadow Water. The chief
attraction to visitors is the Ckutle
of McUahide, the ancient baronial
seat and residence of Lord Talbot of
Malahide, whose fiEonily has been
seated here for more than 700 years.
The visitor is admitted on presenting
a card, to be obtained at the hotel.
The castle was founded by Bichatd
Talbot, who received a grant of the
lordship in the reign of Henry II.,
and is still an interesting building,
though modem alterations and addi-
tions have been made, not altogether
in the best taste. A!s it at present
stands, it is an ivy-covered building,
flanked on each side by a slender
drum tower, with Irish stepped battle-
ments. The one at the S.E. angle
is very modem. The principal fea-
tures of interest in the interior are,
an oak panelled room, with an elabo-
rately carved chimney-piece, repre-
senting the Conception; respecting
which the following legend is tola.
In 1653 the castle was inhabited by
Miles Corbet the regicide for 7 years,
during which time the figure of the
Virgin Mary took miraculous flight,
never appearing again until the un-
holy tenant he^ fled. The dining-
hall, a fine lofty room, contains the
original oak roof and gallery, with
many fomily portraits, amongst which
are Charles I. and Henrietta Maria by
Vandyke, James II. and Ann Hyde
(Sir P. Lely), Queen Anne (Sir G.
Eneller), and one of Lord Tyrconnel,
Ireland. Boute 2. — Sworde — Lainbay Island.
28
Lord lieutenant of Ireland in James
II.'s time. There is also a painting
in 3 compartments by Albert Durer,
which belonged to Maiy Queen of
Scots, and was purchased by Charles
n. for 2000Z., as well as others by
Canaletti, Cuyp, Vandyke, &c. The
library contains the documents of a
grant made by Edward lY. to the
Talbots.
Adjoining the house is the rained
abbey, a single-aisled building, of
nave and chancel, divided by a good
arch, and lighted by trefoil windows
on the S., and a perpendicular window
on the W. There is also a 2-light
window under the little belfiry, orna-
mented with crocketed ogee cano-
pies. Inside is the altar-tomb of
Maud Plunkett, the heroine of Grif-
fin's ballad of the * Bridal of Mala-
hide,' whose husband fell in a fray
immediately after the celebration of
his marriage, thus makmg her maid,
wife, and widow, in one day, though
she afterwaids Uved to marry her
3rd husband. Sir Bichard Talbot : —
** But oh, for the maiden
Who mourns for that diief
With heart overladen
And rending with grief I
She sinks on'the meaduw
In one morning tide,
A wife and a widow,
A maid axA a bride."
The tomb is surmounted by her re-
cumbent efiSgy in the oostiune of the
15th cent It is a pity that the weeds
and underwood are allowed to grow
in such profusion within the precincts
of the ruins.
T3 m. to 1. of Malahide is the
Tillage, of Swords, remarkable for its
ch., round tower, and castle. It was
formerly a place of some importance,
a ch. having been founded here in
512 by St Columb^ which was subee-
quentiy made the seat of a bishop-
ric, under the jurisdiction of St.
Finian. The roimd tower is 73 ft
in height, and very perfect, even to
the conical cap on the summit It
has a lower quadrangular doorway
3 ft. above the level of the ground,
with a 2nd aperture of nearly the
same shape, 20 ft. above the ground.
The castle, or the archiepiscopal re-
sidence, consists of long ranges of
embattled walls flanked by square
towers. It is said to have been
destroyed, together with the town,
no less than 4 times by the Danes.
Adjoining the ronnd tower is a
ch. of the 14th cent., to which
is appended a modem excrescence
forming the body of the building. In
the neighbourhood of Swords are
Brackenstown House, the seat of
R. Manders, Esq., in whose grounds
is a lar^erath ; and Balheary House
(H. Baie'r, Esq.)]. The line now
crosses the estuary for IJ m. by
means of a considerable embank-
ment, divided in the centre by a
timber viaduct set on piles. There
is a fine view from it over Malahide,
Lambay Island, and the promontory
of Portraine.
Ill ^' ^^ ^^ ^* o^ Bonabate
Stat., are the remains of the square
castle of Donabate, " the high fortress
of the bay," also Newbridge House,
the seat of the family of Cobbe, in
whose demesne are the ivy-covered
ruins of Landestown Castle : also on L
is Turvey House, the estate of Lord
Trimleston. On rt., overlooking the
shore, is Portraine, the castellated
seat of J. Evans, Esq. Close to
the sea is a modern round tower,
erected to the memory of a former
member of the family by his widow.
• 3 m. off the coast is Lambay
Island, the Ldmnius of Pliny, the
clifEs of which, rising to the height
of 418 ft., form a beautiful feature
in the scenery. Geologically speak-
ing, it consists of a mass of dark
porphyry, overlaid at Kiln and
Scotch Points (the S.R and N.E.
respectively) by grey Silurian lime-
stone and grey slates. Both ELiln
Point and the shore at Portraine
are capital fields for Silurian fossils,
especially in the matter of trilo-
bites and gasteropoda. ** There is a
24 Boute 2. — Dvhlin to Drogheda and Dundalk, Ireland,
curious old polygon building evi-
dently constructed for defending
the place, which its battlements and
spikeholes command in every direc-
tion : it has been built entirely on
arches without timber." — D'AUon,
The cliffs of Lambay were the scene
of the wreck of the iron steam-
vessel •Tayleur.' The lands of
Portraine, in which barony Lambay
is included, were formerly given by
Sitric, the Danish King of Dublin,
for the endowment of a Christian ch,
14 m. Bush and Lusk Stat. Bush
is a small maritime village on the
rt., possessing no feature of interest ;
but the visitor should by all means
see the round tower of Lvsk 1 m. 1.
An abbey was founded in \he 5th
cent, by St. Macculind, who is
supposed to have been buried here.
The chief peculiarity of the ch. is its
square embattled steeple, probably of
the latter time of B. E., supported
on 3 sides by slender round towers,
with Irish stepped battlements. The
further side is flanked by a round
tower of undoubted antiquity, mea-
suring 7^ ft. diameter at its base,
though deprived of its conical apex.
The body of the ch. consists of 2
aisles, divided by a range of blocked
pointed arches, and contains a richly-
decorated momunent to Sir Christo-
pher Bamewell and wife (16th cent.),
" by whom he had issue 5 sons and
15 daithers." Underneath the tower
is a crypt in which the founder
was buried, and this crypt, "being
termed in Irish * lupca,* is supposed
to have given name to the locah^." —
D' Alton. In the black carbonirerous
shales of Lough Shinny, in which
copper has b^n worked, may be
found tke fossil called " Posidonbmya
Becheri."
15 m. rt. is Kenure Park^ once the
residence of the Duke of Ormond,
and now of Sir Roger Palmer.
16 m. 1., on an eminence, are the
ruins of Baldangan Castle^ "the
town of the fortification." Some
square towers and walls are all now
left of this once fine fortress, which
formerly belonged to the De Berming-
hams,from whom it passed to the Lords
of Howth, and subsequently held out
in 1641 for the confederates of the
Pale, against the Parliamentary army.
Portions of a ch. are also visible.
Passing rt. Hacketstown (J. Johnston,
Esq.), and 1. 1 m. Milverton House
(G. Woods, Esq.), the traveller
arrives at 18 m. akerriest a thriving
little fishing harbour anciently called
Holmpatrick, &om a tradition that
St, Patrick once landed here. The
islands of the Skerries lie a short
distance out. They are 3 in number —
Bed Island, Colt, and St. Patrick's ;
beyond which is the Bock o' BilL
Connected at low water with the
mainland is Sherrick's Island, on
which there is a martello tower.
There is a lighthouse on one of the
Skerries Islands showing a red re-
volving light.
At fiimageera, 19 m., the antiquary
may see a couple of sepulchrstl tu-
muh*, which in 1840 were opened,
yielding a coflSn and bones. On
1. are Ardgillan, the castellated re-
sidence of Col. Taylour, M.P., and
Hampton Hall (G. A. Hamilton,
Esq.).
About 1 m. 1. is BalroOiery, the
ch. of which possesses a peculiarity
similar to Lusk in having a round
tower flanking one of the angles of
the steeple. As the line runs close
along the coast, fine views are obtained
in a northerly direction of the head
of Clogher, above which, in clear
weather, the Moume Mountains rise
in noble ranges.
22 m. BaXMggan {Hotd : Hamilton
Arms), a town of about 2250 Inhab.,
associated with hosieiy and stockings
in particular, in which it still carries
on an important trade. It owes its
prosperity almost entirely to the
family of Hamilton of Hampton, and
particularly to Baron Hamilton, who
in 1780, with the help of the Irish
Parliament, establishea cotton-works,
and built a pier 420 ft. in length ;
Ireland.
Boute 2. — DrogTieda.
25
subsequently to which an inner dock
-was constructed ahnost at the sole
expense of another member of the
same family. The harbour is lighted
by a fixed light.
The rly. is carried across the
harbour by a viaduct of 11 arches
of 30 ft. span.
24 m. Gormanst&um. On 1. is Gor-
manstown Castle, the finely wooded
seat of Viscount Gormanstown, in
"whose, possession it has been since
the time of Edward III. It is a
large rectangular pile of building
flanked by slender round towers, and
is not remarkable for much archi-
tectural taste. The wooded glen of
the Delvin river, which here se-
parates the counties Dublin and
Meath, offers a pretty contrast to the
somewhat bleak coast-lands through
which the line has hitherto been
passing. On rt. is the headland of
JCnockniicean, " the hill of dead men*8
heads," in which excavations made
hy Mr. Hamilton revealed a cham-
ber containing a vast number of
calcined bones. Kespecting these a
tradition existed that a large body
of giante, of Irish and Dani3i birth,
overthrew an army of invaders who
landed at this spot in the 5th cent.
26 m. rt. is Momey House (late
Gapt. Pepper).
27 m. Layton Stat., from whence
on 1. a tumulus is visible on the
bank of the Nanny, a considerable
stream, crossed by a viaduct 300 ft.
long. On the S. bank is Ballygartht
the castellated seat of the Peppers,
who have inhabited it from the time
of Charles II. Further up the river
are the village of Julianstown and
Dardistown CaMle, the residence of
Sir Thomas Ross.
29 m. rt. is BetagJistown, commonly
called Bettystown, which is rising
into repute as a bathing-place wil£
the inhabitants of Drogheda, from
whence omnibuses run several times
a day. The Maiden Tower is a
lonely tower on the coast, named
after Queen Elizabeth. It is situated
{^Irdand.']
in the district of Momington, which
gave a title to the WeUesley family.
Close by is a solid mass of masonry,
known as the Finger. *' They were
evidently landmarks erected before
lighthouses were employed in this
country."
32 m. Drogheda^ pronounced Droy-
da {Hotel: Simcox's Imperial), an
ancient city (Urbs Ponteiia of the
Romans) with a strong fish-bke smell,
and altogether so dirty and un-
comfortable, and with such miser-
able accommodation, that the tourist
will not feel inclined to linger in the
town any more than is necessary for
him to view the many objects of in-
terest in the neighbourhood. (Pop.
14,740). It is finely situated on the
Boyne, the bulk of tiie town being on
the N. bank of the river, which runs
in a deep valley, affording the travel-
ler fine views from any of the sur-
roimding high grounds. Indeed, that
from the stetion is perhaps as good
as any other, and presents Drogheda
under the most fevourable circum-
stances, viz. those of distance. But
this favourable impression is soon
dispelled on entering the narrow and
crowded streets, especially if it happen
to be market or feir day. Apart
from antiquities, the most striking
part of the town is the harbour,
which at the lower end is crossed by an
extremely graceful railway viaduct,
which in size and proportions ranks
2nd to none in the kingdom. On the
S. side, and extending over the largest
half of the river, it consists of 12
arches of 60 ft. span, between which
and 3 similar arches on the N. side,
the communication is maintained by
a lattice bridge of 3 beams, each
550 ft. in lengm, and 90 ft', above the
level of high water, sufficient to
allow vessefi of any size to pass
underneath. The Harbour, which is
formed "by the outfell of the Boyne,
assisted by the ebb from a consider-
able tide basin below the town," has
been at different times much im-
proved, greatly to the benefit of the
c
26
Boute 2. — Drogheda,
Ireland.
trade, which has increased so rapidly
as to place Drogheda high amongst
Irish ports. " About 80 years since
the shipping interest from this town
gave employment to but a solitary
vessel, the *Mary Anne,' whose
ladings, insurances, departures, and
returns, were at the time a source of
reiterated excitement to the mer-
chants,"— D' Alton. At the present
time Drogheda possesses more than
^50 vessels with a tonnage of 4376,
and employs 9 steam-vessels trading
to Liverpool and other ports. Great
numbers of cattle are shipped, besides
butter, oats, &c., in enormous quan-
tities ; in addition to which, an exten-
sive trade is carried on in linen, cot-
ton, salt, distilling, and tanning, not
forgetting the Drogheda ale, about
the pleasantest thing in the town.
At one time the manufacture of
table-linen was so large, that 10,000L
was the average expenditure on
market-days.
The WalU of Drogheda, some
portions of which still remain, were
about" 1^ m. in circumference, and
were entered by 10 gates, 5 on tlie N.
or Meath side of the town, and 5 on
the S. or Lowth side ; of these the
only ones remaining are a portion of
the West or Butter Gate, an octangu-
lar tower, defended by long narrow
loopholes, and entered by a circular
arched passage strengthened by a
portcullis, and ^S^^. Lawrence's Gate^
one of the most perfect specimens in
the kingdom. It consists of 2 lofty
circular towers of 4 stories, between
which is a retiring wall pierced like
the towers with loopholes. "It is
probable that the latter was anciently,
upon the town side, divided into
stages by platforms of timber ex-
tending from tower to tower, other-
wise the loopholes could not have
been used by the defenders of the
gate." — Waheman,
The ruins of the Ahhey of St. Mary
D' Urso, situated between West Gate
and the Boyne, are small, and consist
of a central tower with a fine pointed
arch, spanning a dirty thoroughfare
called the Abbey Lane. It was once
an important and extensive building
of 150 ft. in length, and is believed to
have been founded by St. Patrick,
and to have been the temporary re-
sidence of St. Oolumb in the 6th
cent., subsequently to which it was
occupied by Augustinian friars.
The Dominican, or Abbey of
Preaching Friars, is conspicuous
in the N. portion of the town
from its sole remaining feature, tlie
Magdalene steeple, a lofty tower
of 2 stories springing from a noble
pointed arch. It is lighted by 2
pointed windows on each side,
and contains 2 upper apartments.
In the E. battlement is a breach
made by Cromwell's cannon. This
religious house, which was once cru-
ciform, W61S founded in 1224 by an
archbishop of Armagh, and was the
place where Richard II. in 1394
received the submission of O'Neill,
Prince of Ulster, and his subordinate
chieftains. Unfortunately for the
archaeologist, these ruins stand in the
midst of a most wretched collection
of hovels.
On the N. or Meath side, the only
other building worth notice is the
Tholsil, an important-looking build-
ing surmounted by a cupola. Close
to it the Boyne is spanned by an
inconvenient Bridge^ "on one side
of which may be still seen the wicker
Corragh, with its horse-skin covering,
the same in design and execution
perhaps as floated there 1000 years
ago ; and on the other we find the
latest invented and most improved
screw steamer." — Wilde. On the S.
side are the ch. of St. Mary, formerly
devoted to the use of the CarmeUtes ;
the poor-house, a really handsome
building for the accommodation of
1000 inmates ; and a martello fort,
commanding the whole of the town
from a mount which waa formerly
the grave of the wife of Gobhan the
smith, and which is recorded to have
been robbed by the Danes of its
Ireland.
Boute 2. — MeUifont Abbey.
27
contents in the 9th cent. Behind
the poor-house is the monnd from
whence Cromwell, in his attack on
the town, " made the hreach assault-
able, and, by the help of God,
stormed it." A handsome addition
has been made to Drogheda, in the
shape of a fine hall, called the Whit-
worth Hall, presented to the town
by Mr. Whitworth, the member for
the borough.
The early name of Drogheda was
Drochat-Atha — the Bridge of the
Ford — afterwards AngUcised into
Tredagh. The principal events in
the history of its annals, which up
to the time of Cromwell are trace-
able with remarkable regularity,
are the holding of several parlia-
ments, one of which, known as the
Poynings Parliament, and held in
1493, provided for the dependence
of the Irish legislative assembly upon
that of England. It was frequently
the rendezvous of the armies that
were sent against the rebellious in-
habitants of Ulster, and in 1641
held out successfully against Sir
Phelim O'Neill under Sir Henry
Tichbome and Lord Moore; and
again for a time in 1649 under Sir
Arthur Ashton against Cromwell,
who at last took the town by storm,
accompanied by circumstances of
great ferocity, " so that, except some
few, who during the time of the assault
escaped at the other end of the town,
there was not an officer, soldier, or
religious person belonging to that
garrison left alive." — Clarendon.
James H. sojourned here previous
to the battle of the Boyne, the events
of which are described in p. 141.
Conveyances. — By rail to Dublin,
Belfast ; also to Navan and Oldcastle ;
by steam to Liverpool ; mail-car to
Virginia.
distances. — Dublin, 33 m.; Bel-
fast, 81 ; Liverpool, 133 ; Duleek, 4J ;
Betaghstown, 5; Mellifont Abbey,
5 ; Monasterboice, 6 ; Oldbridge, 2| ;
Newgrange, 7 ; Hill of Dowth, 5 ;
Dunleer, 10 ; Slane, 8.
Excursions. —
1. Oldbridge and the Boyne (Kte.
15).
2. Mellifont and Monasterboice.
3. Newgrange and Dowth (^Rte.
15).
4. Duleek and Athcame (Rte. 16).
[The tourist will of course visit the
abbey oiMdlifont, the first Cistercian
Abbey ever founded in Ireland. It
owes its establishment to Donough
OCarroll, Prince of Oirgiallach, in
1142, who was influenced by tho
request of St. Malachy the Arch-
bishop of Armagh. At the time of
its consecration in 1157, a very im-
portant synod was held here, at-
tended by the primate, 17 bishops,
and 4 or 5 kings. At the intro-
duction of the English power into
the Pale, the abbey (which was an
offshoot of that of Clairvaux in Nor-
mandy) was taken under the special
protection of Henry H., who granted
a charter, afterwards confirmed by
John. Towards the end of the 16th
cent, the last abbot retired, and
Mellifont then became the residence
of Sir Edward Moore, in whose time
it underwent a siege during the Re-
beUion. At the time of the dissolu-
tion it contained 140 monks, besides
lay brothers and servitors. The ruins
are pleasantly situated on the steep
banks of the Mattock, which here
divides the counties of Meath and
Lowth. On a projection of rock near
the river is the gateway, a massive
square tower, carried up on one side
to a considerable height. Admittance
was gained by a circular arch, through
which now runs a mill-stream. The
baptistery is a singular octagon build-
ing, of which only 5 sides remain.
Each face is entered by a semi-
circular door with good pillars and
mouldings ; and above the crown of
the arches externally nms a string-
course. Although the roof is gone,
the corbels in the interior show the
points from which the arches sprang
to support it. "The effect of the
colour from the red bricks introduced
0 2
28
Baute 2.-^Mona8terboice,
Ireland.
into the architraves is very pleasing,
and they constitute a feature in Irish
architecture pronounced by Dr. Petrie
to be almost unique." — D' Alton. On
the top, according to Archdall, was a
reservoir for water, which was con-
veyed by pipes to the different
offices. Close by, and apparently of
later date, is St. Bernard's Chapel,
consisting of a crypt and an
upper chamber, the basement floor
being considerably lower than the
surface ground outside. The crypt
has a beautifully groined roof, and
arches springing from clustered co-
lumns, having capitals elaborately
carved in foliage. The centre columns
are carried down to the ground, but
the others stop short at a basement
running round at a little height
from the floor. It is lighted by
an eastern and 2 side windows, of
Decorated style, with good mullions,
tliough but little of the tracery,
whicli resembles Flamboyant, re-
mains. This chapel was formerly
entered by a pointed doorway,
that, to judge from plates given by
Wright in * Louthiana,' and the
* Irish Penny Journal,' 1832, was
most elaborate in its ornamentation.
Near the baptistery are remains
of dungeons in which Dervorgoil,
" whose abduction by Dermod Mac
Morrough, king of Leinster, led to
the introduction into Ireland of the
English under Strongbow." is said to
have closed her career.
About 2 m. to the N.E. of Melli-
font, and 6 from Drogheda, are the
venerable ruins of Monasterhoice, con-
sisting of 2 churches, a round tower,
and 3 of the finest crosses in Ireland.
The churches are of different dates ;
the oldest, which is probably an-
terior to the tower, measures 45 ft.
in length, and formerly consisted
of aisle and choir, separated by a
round arch, which at present termi-
nates the building, as the choir has
disappeared. The doorway is in the
centre of the vast gable, and has a
rude horizontal head. The 2nd ch..
adjoining the tower, is considerably
smaller, and is of the dat« of the
13th cent.
Tlie Bound Tower, the great feature
of Monasterboice, is considered by
Dr. Petrie to be about the date of
the 9th cent. It is 17 yards in cir-
cumference at the base, gradually
diminishing to the summit, which is
90 ft. in height, and is broken off,
presenting at a distance somewhat
of the aspect of a huge steel pen.
The most noticeable point about it
is the door, standing 6 ft. from
the ground, the head formed of 2
stones laid horizontally one above
the other. " A band extends round
the head and down the sides of
the doorway, but terminates on a
level with the sill, or rather turns off
at a right angle, passing horizontally
for a distance of 8 inches, from which
point it ascends, and running upwards
round the doorway head gives the
appearance of a double band." —
Wakeman. Above the doorway is a
small pointed window, but all the
others are square-headed. Of the 3
Crosses, 2 are considered to be the
finest specimens of the kind in Ire-
land. The largest one is 27 ft. high,
and is composed of 3 stones, viz., the
shaft, the cross (the arms of which
are bound together by a ring), and
the top piece. The shaft is divided
into 7 compartments, all of which
were filled with elaborate sculpture,
more or less weathered and worn.
In the 2nd from the bottom are 5
figures, of which one is presenting a
book, while a bird rests on his head.
In the 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th are the
Apostles. The body of the cross is
filled with a representation of the
Crucifixion. The circle by which the
arms of the cross are connected are
enriched with elaborate ornament,
conspicuous for its cable moulding.
The 2nd cross is even more dis-
tinct, but is not nearly so large,
being only 15 ft. high. There are 3
main compartments in the western
face of the shaft, each of which
Ireland.
Boute 2. — Termonfechin,
29
is filled with 3 figures habited in
the ecclesiastical or military dress
of the period, viz. the 9th or 10th
cent. "The history which these
sculptures are intended to com-
memorate evidently commences in
the lowest entablature, where an
ecclesiastic in a long cloak fastened
with a brooch stands between 2
figures, either soldiers or robbers,
armed with long Danish swords. In
the compartment over this, the same
personages are represented as stu-
dents, each with a book, but the
soldiers have assumed the eccle-
siastical garb, although they retain
the moustache. In the top division
the figures are again repeated, all in
long flowing dresses ; the central one
— ^then perhaps aged or at the point
of death — is represented giving his
staff to one and his book to tHe other
of his former assailants." — Catalogue
of Irish Acad. The centre piece on the
eastern fisice represents our Saviour
sitting in jud^ent, while below it
are the Adoration of the Wise Men,
the Temptation, and Expulsion in
the 5th and lowest division, besides
1 or 2 compartments that are ob-
scure. From an inscription on the
lowest part of the shaft, which runs
" A prayer for Muiredach, by whom
was made this cross," we learn the
name of the builder. From the Irish
Annals it appears there were 2 Mui-
redachs, one who died in 844, and the
other in 924, to the latter of whom
Dr. Petrie inclines, as it is known
that he was a man of great wealth
and distinction, and therefore more
likely to have erected such a work
of art. To Cromwell is ascribed the
odium of breaking the 3rd cross,
which is very imperfect, the head
and part of the shaft only remaining
uninjured. Besides these crosses
there is a monumental stone in-
scribed in Irish, ** A prayer for Ru-
archan." "The crosses of Monas-
terboice may be regarded not only as
memorials of the piety and munifi-
cence of a people whom ignorance
and prejudice have too often sneered
at as barbarous, but also as the
finest works of sculptured art of
their period now existing." — Wake-
man. This religious establishment
was founded about the end of the
5th cent, by St Buithe, the son of
Bronnagh, from whom it derived
its name. Buithe, the founder, was
buried himself here in 521, and sub-
sequently to this period the abbey-
was visited by St. Coliunb. Witn
the exception of the destruction of
the belfry by fire in 1097, the annals
of this house are not marked by any
events of importance.]
The Dublin and BelfiEist Junction
line now conveys the traveller
northward. This line, opened in
1852, completes the railway chain
from Dublin to Belfast, by uniting
with the Ulster Rly. at Portadown,
56 m. distant. After crossing
the Boyne Viaduct, a smaller one
is entered upon at Newfoundwell
Bridge, built in a style to harmonise
with the walls of Drogheda. On
rt. 1^ m. is Beaulieu House (R.
Montgomery, Esq.), pleasantly situ-
ated just at the mouth of the
Boyne. The family of Montgomery
have inherited this estate from Sir
Henry Tichbome, Governor of Drog-
heda in 1641.
From hence to Dimdalk the line
passes through a prettily cultivated
country, though not so rich in
archaeological remains as the dis-
trict to Sie W. of Drogheda. The
tourist frequently obtains charming
views of the Moume Mountains
and the hilly country between Dun-
dalk and Newry.
35^ m. rt. 2 m. is the village of
Termonfeckin, in former times the
residence of the Abps. of Armagh,
the last of whom was Abp. Ussher,
who died in 1612. It was also the
residence of R. 0. Arbp. Plunket,
who was executed for treason.
There are remains of the ancient
castle. The name of Termon means
" sanctuary," —the sanctuary of St,
30
Boute 3. — Dundalk to Belfast.
Ireland.
Fechan — it being the habit for a
certain portion of land, answering to
our glebe, and called " Termon land,"
to be set apart for the use of the
clergy attached to the foundation.
37| m. rt. is Black Hall (G. Pent-
land, Esq.), and some 2 m. to the E.
the village and headland of Ologher,
a very prominent object in all the
coast views.
40J m. rt. is Barmeath, the seat
of Lord Bellew; soon after which
the traveller arrives at 42 m.
rt. Dunleer, a small town situ-
ated in the valley of the White
River. By a singular charter given
by Charles II., the inhabitants had
the privilege of electing a sove-
reign of their own, which however
has not been exercised since 1811.
Athclare Castle, a little to the S. is
a good specimen of the fortified
manor-house, one end being de-
fended by a massive battlemented
tower.
[From Dunleer it is 5 m. S.W. to
the hill of Collon, 744 ft., on the
slope of which is Temple, the beau-
tifully wooded demesne of Viscount
Massareene and Ferrard.]
[About midway between Dunleer
and Castle Bellingham, 6 m. 1., is
Ardee, a town of about 2700 Inhab.,
situated, as its name implies, on the
river Dee. It was of great importance
in ancient times, chiefly through the
exertions of Roger de Pippart, an
English settler, who built a strong
castle, now used as a gaol. It is a
quadmngular building with a high,
roof; the E. and W. fronts are de-
fended by projecting towers rising
above the rest of the building. There
is also another castellated building in
the town, which is inhabited, and
the residence of W. Hatch, Esq., to
whose family it was granted by
Cromwell. Scarce any traces are
left of the Augustinian Frianr and
of the Carmelite Friary, which was
burnt by Edward Bruce, as was in-
deed the whole of Ardee by O'Neill
in 1538.
In later times it was occupied
by James II.'s troops after leaving
Dimdalk, and also by William's
army, who advanced direct from
hence to the Boyne.]
44 m. rt. Charleville ( — Dease,
Esq.), and a little beyond Drumcar
(J. M'Clintock, Esq.) and Green-
mount. At 47 m. tiie line crosses
the river Glyde, a stream rising in 3
waterheads, under the name of the
Lagan, in the counties Monaghan,
Meath, and Louth, and arrives at
Castlebdlin^ham^ a neat little town,
famous for its ale, on the rt. of
the line, flourishing under the pro-
prietorship of Sir Arthur Belling-
ham, whose residence is adjoining.
49 m. rt. Dromiskin, in addi-
tion to a pretty ch., contains the
lower portion of a round tower,
which has been recapped and now
serves as a belfry. On 1. 2 m. are
Branganstown House (Rev. A. Gtir-
ston) and Darver Castle (Mrs. Booth);
not fer from which is Miltovm Cos-
tie, a square fortress "defended by
round towers 45 ft. high, surmounted
by tall graduated batUements. Near
the summit of a rising ground \ m.
distant is an arched subterraneous
vault, supposed to have communi-
cated with the castle."
50 m. The line now crosses an-
other river, the Fane, which, rising
in Monaghan, skirts the county of
Louth, and, passing through a pretty
valley, falls into the sea at Dundalk
Bay, close to the village of Lurgan
Green, and near the grounds of
Clermont Park (Lord Clermont).
54 m. Dundalk. Rte. 3.
ROUTE 3.
FROM DUNDALK TO BELFAST.
Dundalk (anc. Dun-dealgan) {Ho'
td: Arthur's) is a large, prosperous
town (Pop. 10,428), interesting more
Ireland.
BoiUe 3. — Dundalk — Louth.
31
in its commercial relations than in
its antiquarian features, though it
played no unimportant part in the
early history of the country, having
been the head-quarters of Bruce in
1315, who here proclaimed himself
king, keeping his position for a whole
year. It was afterwards granted to
the powerful fiimily of the De Ver-
dons, who founded a Franciscan
monastery in the reign of Henry III.
Charters were granted by that king,
as also by Richard II. and Henry IV.,
who allowed the inhabitants to sur-
round their town by walls.
Dundalk is built on marshy ground
on the S. bank of the estuary of
the Oastleton river, as it Mis into
the bay of Dundalk, which extends
for about 7 m. across from the Moat
of Cooley to Dunany Point. The
entrance to the harbour was ob-
structed by a very dangerous shoal of
sunken rocks, until Sir John M'NeiU,
the good genius of the neighbour-
hood, removed them, and by so doing
gave immense impetus to the trade
of the port. An extensive business is
done here in flax, leather, and com,
besides which there are large dis-
tilleries and breweries, the amount
of customs duties for 1859 being
upwards of 31,000Z.
The town itself wiU not detain
the visitor long. He should see the
eh., which stands a little back from
the main street, and has a singular
wooden steeple sheathed with cop-
per. The R. C. chai)el, one of
the handsomest in Ireland, was
erected by Mr. Duff, from de-
signs after King's College chapel,
Cambridge. There are also court-
house, gaol, guildhall, and the usual
collection of municipal buildings.
The town has the advantage of a fine
park, as well as the neighbourhood
of the grounds of Lord Roden at
Dundalk House, which are free to
visitors. To the E. are the ruins
of the Franciscan Friary, consisting
mainly of a high square tower. " This
building is said to have been very
large and beautiful, and the E.
window, according to Ware, was
particularly admired." After the dis-
solution it was granted by Henry
Vin. to James Brandon at a rent of
6d. per annum.
"On the plains of Ballynahatna
are the remains of a Drui(fical tem-
ple, p6irtly enclosed by a curious
rampart, on the outside of which is
a circle of upright stones." — Lewis.
Conveyances. — By rail to Dublin,
Belfast, and EnnisMUen. Steamer
to Liverpool.
Distances. — Drogheda, 22 J m. ;
Portadown, 33^ ; Newry, 15 ; Ennis-
killen, 62 ; Castle Blayney, 18 ;
Louth, 5i ; Castle Bellingham, 7.
[Louth (anc. Baile-Lughmhaigh)
was formerly the seat of a cele-
brated ecclesiastical establishment
founded by St. ' Patrick, where 100
bishops and 300 presbyters re-
ceived their education. The ruins
of the abbey, which occupy the site
of the original monastery, are rather
extensive, and contain some good
traceried windows. In the modem
ch. on the hill above is a monument
to the late rector. Dr. Little, with the
punning epitaph " Multum in parvo."
There are several interesting traces of
ancient earthworks in this parish,
particularly in the glebe-land at
Castlering near the village, where
the foun&tions of an hexagonal mural
;fort may be examined.]
Leaving the Dundalk Stat, the
line passes on 1. Lisnawidly House
(P. Byrne, Esq.), and further on 2 m.
CasUetown House^ the seat of J.
Eastwood, Esq. Adjoining the man-
sion is the old quadrangular castle,
with slender square towers at the
angles.
3 m. is the hill of Faughart, " an
ancient fort, consisting of an artificial
mound, 60 ft. in height, surrounded
by a deep trench with a counterscarp.
The whole area of the summit is cir-
ciunscribed by the foimdations of an
octagonal building, but whether it
was a tower or not is difficult to
32
Boute 3. — Dundalk to Belfast,
Ireland.
detemiine. Mr. Wright conjectures
that it may have been a funeral monu-
ment, and in later times a beacon or
fort to defend the frontier of the
Pale." — Wakeman. Here it was that
Edward Bruce lost his crown and
his life in an encounter with a picked
body of troops under De Berming-
ham and Verdon in 1316. 2 m. to
the E. of Faughaxt is a cromlech
remarkable for the size of the rock
supported, and the smallness of the
points of support of the 3 stones
on which it rests. Close to it
is the giant's grave, an arrange-
ment of stones, with a large one over-
lapping them at one end. On the
rt. of the rly. are several seats —
BeUurgan (Capt. Tipping), on the
southern face of Trumpet Hill,
Ballymascanlon House (F. J. Foster,
Esq.), Mount Pleasant (Sir John
M'Neill), Carrick Bridge House,
and Claret Kock.
4 m. To rt. of Mount Pleasant
Stat, the beautiful Bavensdale opens
out, emerging from the southern
slopes of the Moume mountains. The
river Flurry runs through it to Bavens-
dale Park, the residence of Lord Cler-
mont. It is magnificently situated at
the foot of Clermont Cairn, which
rises bluffly to the height of 1674
ft. In the lower portion of the glen
is Annavema (late Mrs. M*CleUand).
The scenery has been gradually
changing, from the undulating and
pastoral country near Dundalk and
Castle BeUingham, to higher and less
cultivated grounds. We are now at
the southern base of a very remark-
able group of mountains which shut
off Ulster from the county of Louth,
and which contain in their ranges
scenery of a very high order. The
Moume mountains extend from
Slieve GuUion, the highest westerly
point, to Sheve Donard overlooking
Dundrum bay, near Downpatrick,
and occupy northwards a very con-
siderable portion of Co. Down, the
outlying groups indeed reaching to
within sight of Bel&st.
The tourist who can afford the
time to explore these hills at length,
making his head-quarters at Newry
or Rostrevor, will not regret his
stay.
6 m. 1. at Moyry Castle, a single
quadrangular tower, the line crosses
the Carrickbroad river, and enters
the CO. of Armagh. This is the
locale of the famous Moyry Pass,
where in 1595 a severe action took
place between the Elizabethan troops
under Sir Wm. Russell and those
of O'Neill, who for 6 or 6 years
subsequently held this defile against
every attempt on the part of the
English to dislodge him. He was,
however, compelled to retire in 1600
before Lord Mounijoy, who in his
turn was a few days afterwards inter-
cepted by O'NeiU in Ravensdale,
when the Lord Deputy was severely
wounded, and the English compelled
to retreat to Dundalk, leaving the
northern districts in the hands of the
Irish. Passing 1. under the base of the
Forkhill mountains, the line leaves
on rt. 7 m. the village of Jones-
borough, burnt by the rebels in 1798 :
near it is the singular pillar stone of
Elilnasaggart, on the &ce of which
is an inscription and a wb eel-cross
below it. We now enter a wild hilly
region, little inhabited, and still less
cidtivated.
On L the granitic head of Slieve
Gullion rises abruptly to the height
of 1893 ft, being the most westerly-
point of the Moume range. At
the siunmit is a cairn, contain-
ing a chamber underneath, supposed
to have been the burial-place of
Cualgne, son of Breogan, an early-
chieftain, who fell in battle on the
plain beneath. The locale of this
mountain has been the subject of a
poem, believed to have been written
by Ossian, in which he makes Fingal
his principal hero. The mountains
in this parish (Killeary) were for-
merly infested by bands of robbers,
of whom the &mous Redmond
O'Hanlon was the chief. At the base
Ireland.
Boute 3. — Newry,
83
of Slieve Gullion is Killeary Castle,
the Elizabethan residence of J.
Foxall, Esq.
9 m. rt near the village of Mdgh
the line has reached its highest ele-
vation, and enters a deep cutting
through the Wellington HiU, emerg-
ing at the base of the Newry moun-
tains. A magnificent view now
opens out to the traveller, who would
vrillingly delay his rapid progress
for a few minutes to feast upon it.
On his rt. the whole of the vale and
town of Newry lie at his feet, toge-
ther with Carlingford Bay and the
villages of Warrenpoint and Eos-
trevor, the whole backed up by the
lofty ranges of Moume, and forming
altogether a panorama not to be sur-
passed.
15 m. Newry Stat. As the town is
some little distance off, ii will be
more convenient to the traveller to
proceed as far as 18 m. Goragh
Wood Stat., from whence a short
line (a section of the Newry and
Armagh Rly.), runs directly into the
heart of the town. In its passage be-
tween the 2 stations the main line
is carried over the ravine of Craig-
more by a remarkably fine viaduct
2000 ft. in length and 110 high,
formed by a series of 18 arches of 50
ft. span. From Goragh Wood it is
about 2| m. of steep gradient to Newry
(Rte. 4) {Hotels : Victoria ; Newry
Arms ; Downshire Arms), a rapidly
increasing business town, much
changed since the days when Swift
wrote of it-^
** High church, low steeple.
Dirty streets, and proud people.'*
From its singularly beautiful posi-
tion, and its proximity to a picturesque
coast, Newry has attracted both
the commercial and the tourist sec-
tions of the community, advan-
tages which the inhabitants have
had the good sense not to abuse by
exorbitant charges. Teiking the
whole district from the town to the
end of Carlingford Bay, there are few
places in the kingdom where the
lover of scenery can spend his time
with such economy. It is situated
in a broad vale, expanding towards
the N.W., contracting on the S.E.,
and bounded by high lulls on each
side — on the W. by the Newry moun-
tains (1385 ft.), and Slieve Gullion,
and on the E. by the wooded
shoulders of the more lofty Moume
range, which are seen overtopping
them. Through the centre of the
vale runs the liver Clanrye, ecUpsed
to a considerable extent by the more
important Newry Canal, which here
empties itself into the sea, though
the port of Newry may be pro-
perly said to be at Warrenpoint,
6 m. distant, and connected by a
rly. (Rte. 4). The place itself
is clean and well laid out, is re-
markably free from the disagreeable
suburbs of Irish towns, and has a
pleasant air of bustle and business
about it. Four stone bridges cross
the tidal river which separates the
Cos. Down and Armagh, and 4 others
span the canal ; of these the Ballybot
Bridge is a handsome granite arch of
90 ft. span. The churches are all
modem or modernized buildings,
although St. Patrick's is said to have
been the first professedly Protestant
ch. ever erected in Ireland, and still
possesses a part of the tower, with
the arms of the founder. Sir Nicholas
Bagnall, 1578. The R. C. cathedral
in Hill-street has a good Perp. ex-
terior. There are scarce any traces
whatever of the abbey of Newry,
founded in 1157 for Cistercian monks
by Maurice M*LoughUn, king of Ire-
land. The charter of this founda-
tion is still in existence, and was
eularged by Hugh De Lacy in 1237.
Within its precincts 2 yew-trees were
planted by St. Patrick, from whence
the town derived the name of Na yur
or the yew-trees, afterwards corrupted
into Newries. Respecting this tree
we find the following extract from the
Annals of the Four Masters :— " 1262.
The monastery of the monks of
c 3
Bi
Boute 3. — DundaUe to Belfast
Ireland.
Newry was burnt, and also the yew-
tree which St. Patrick himself had
planted." The BagnaUs (the same
who built St. Patrick's ch.) possessed
a castle fonned out of a portion of
the buildings of this abbey and built
on its site, which was granted them
by a patent of James I. This femily
long possessed the surrounding ma-
nors of Newry, Moume, and Carling-
ford, which afterwards descended to
the Anglesea and Kilmorey titles.
At the northern entrance is a granite
obelisk erected in memory of a Mr.
Trevor Oorry. The town carries on a
busy export and import trade, pos-
sessing good quays and warehouses.
The port might be made the safest in
Ireland at a very moderate cost. " The
lough is navigable for 6 m. by vessels
of the greatest burden at all times,
and the port admits vessels of 1000
tons to Warrenpoint, where the larger
vessels remain, but those drawing
15 ft. water can go up by the Ship
Canal to the Albert Basin, a distance
of 5 m. from the sea. Barges ply by
the Newry Canal Navigation to
Lough Neagh 32 m. inland. The
income of the port amounts to 60001.
per annum, arising from canal dues
on tonnage. Is. per ton inwards, and
Id. outwards." — Thorn's Directory.
The port contained in 1859 110
vessels of 6300 tonnage. (Pop. 12,188.)
The antiquary should visit the
rath at Crown Bridge. It is sur-
rounded by a ditch 600 ft. in cir-
cumference, and has on the W. side
a singular platform also surrounded
by a fosse, the use of which is not
very apparent.
Conveyances. Siesmer to Liver-
pool and Glasgow. Rail to Dundalk,
Belfast, Armagh, and Warrenpoint.
Car to Downpatrick, to which a rlwy.
is in progress ; car to Kilkeel.
D/stonces.— Dundalk, 15 m.; Porta-
down, 18 J ; Banbridge, 17 ; Hilltown,
9 ; Warrenpoint, 6 ; Rostrevor, 8 J ;
Carlingford, 12; Omeath,7J; Green-
ore, 15 J ; Kilkeel, 18 ; Newcastle, 30 ;
Nanowwater, 4 ; Duudrum, 29 ;
Downpatrick, by coast road, 61 ; Cas-
tlewellan, 18.
Excursions. —
1. Warrenpoint and Rostrevor
(Rte. 4).
2. ffiUtown.
[FromNewry the pedestrian should
walk to Warrenpoint, and thence
make his way round the coast to
Downpatrick and even to Donagha-
dee, by which route he wiU con-
stantly have opportunities of explor-
ing the magnificent mountain scenery
of the Moume Mts. (Rte. 4).]
Proceeding from Groragh Wood is
19 m. 1. Mount Narris, a small village
marking the position of a fort buSt
in the reign of EUzabeth to guard
one of the many passes near Newry.
It gives the title of baron to the
Annesley family.
20 m. on rt., near the canal, is
the tumulus of Cairn Bane, " which
has a deep sloping bank outside
the central mound, enclosed with
upright stones, and which is about
200 yards in circumference, cover-
ing above a rood of ground. Within
the glacis or slope, the base of
the Temple gradually rises towards
the mound, which is 160 yards in
circumference, and is completely
girt with long and ponderous stones
set upon it and joined together. On
the N.W. is tlie entrance, and on
the opposite side is the altar, the
slab of which is very ponderous,
resting upon 3 upright stones, each
10 ft. long." — Coote*s Armagh.
A little further N. is Drumba-
nagher, the residence of Col. Maxwell
Close, built in Italian siyle, and situ-
ated in beautiful grounds.
On rt. of the line is Drumantine
House (A. C. Innes, Esq.).
The Nevyry Canal keeps close
fellowship with the rly. all the way
from Newry to Portadown, near which
place it enters the bed of the Bann,
and thus flows into Lough Neagh.
It was originally made wilt the in-
tention of exporting large quantities
of coal from the Dungannon district.
Ireland.
Boute 3. — Scarva — Banbridge,
35
and supplying Dublin, but unfor-
tunately, tbe quality of the article
not being gufficiently liked, the canal
is used for importing coals to the
very districts which should have
furnished them. It was commenced
in 1 730, and opened in 1741, at a cost
of 896,000/., the average of the annual
tolls being between 40002. and 50002.
23 m. Poyntz Pass, so called from
Sir Toby Poyntz, who defended the
pass against Hugh O'Neill's Irish
troops. There is a neat little town
here, with an hotel. The antiquary
should stop for the purpose of ex-
amining the Dane's Cast, a sort of
dyke, similar to that of Ofi^ in Wales.
It is called by the natives Glean-na-
muck-ddu, ** the glen of the black
pig," and was ascribed by them
to enchantment. From Lisnagade
CCapt. Trevor), near Scarva, it ex-
tended to the bay of Dundalk,
having a depth of 12 to 20 ft, but,
as in most of these early earthworks,
the progress of agriculture and im-
provements have obliterated it in
very many places. Passing Acton
House (J. Alexander, Esq.) and
Druminargal House, the tourist ar-
rives at
26 m. Scarva, where William HI.'s
army held its rendezvous on arriving
in Ireland. Here are several archaeo-
logical remains of interest : viz. the
ruins of Glenflesk Castle, built by
Monck in the time of Cromwell ; and
(of a much earlier date) the cairn
of Cairn Cochy, an immense heap of
stones 70 ft. high, which marks the
spot of a prsehistoric battle, a.d. 332,
** between the 3 Oollas, princes of
Heremon's race, and Fergus Fogha,
the last of the race of Ir. The battle,
in which the latter was killed, lasted
for 6 successive days." The parish
of Aghaderg, meaning the battle of
the cairn at the bloody ford, takes its
name from this occurrence. In the
grounds of Lisnagade House is the
fort, from whence the Dane's Cast is
supposed to commence. It is circular,
with triple ramparts, the 3 moats or
intrenchments being about 70 ft. in
breadth.
[2^ m. rt. is the small town
of Loughhrickland, in the street of
which William IH. is said to have
sat on horseback for many hours,
while his army passed before him in
single file.]
From Scarva there is a junction line
of 7 m. through the village of Laurence-
town to Banbridge {Hotel : Downshire
Arms) (Pop. 3800), a pleasant busy
little place on the Bann, although of
an entirely modem date. It is pe-'
culiar from the &ct of the main
street having been excavated in the
centre, leaving a broad passage on
each side for the purposes of teiffic.
Linen is the staple trade of Ban-
bridge, as it is of every northern town
which the tourist will visit in this
route.
Distances, — ^Loughhrickland, 3 m. ;
Dromore, 7 ; Lurgan, 9^. A new lino
has been recently opened between
Banbridge, Dromore, and Lisbum.
28 m. Tanderagee Stat., to the rt.
of which is Gilford, another little
linen town on the Bann, containing
the extensive fiactory of Messrs. Dun-
bar, Dickson, and Co. Gilford Castle,
close to the town, was formerly a seat
of Sir W. Johnston, but is now used
as an hospital.
About the same distance on the 1.
of the stat. is the well-to-do town
of Tanderagee, to which very large
quantities of flax are weekly brought
to market The summit of the hill
is crowned by the Castle, a pretty
Elizabethan mansion of the Duke of
Manchester, originally bmlt by the
Count de Salis on the site of the
fortress of Bedmond O'Hanlon, the
most renowned outlaw of Irish history,
whose estates were confiscated in the
reign of James I. From hence the
hue, crossing the Cusher river,
follows the valley of the Bann,
passing on 1. Mullavilly House,
rt. Moyallen (the residence of the
Quaker family of Wakefield) and
Carrick House (Col. Blacker) to
36
Boule 3. — DundaUc to Belfast. Ireland.
34 m. Portadoum Stat. (Rte. 17), an |
important rly. centre, from whence
radiate the Dublin and BelfiEist junc-
tion, the Ulster, the Clones, and
the Dungannon lines. Portadown,
from its position on the Bann, and
its contiguity to Lough Neagh, has
a large trade in linen and agri-
cultuml products. For the next
25 m. the traveller will pursue his
journey on the Ulster Ely., which
was opened to Belfisist in 1848. The
same Company, however, own the
line to Monaghan and Clones (Rte.
17), as well as that to Dungannon
and Omagh (Rte. 7). The features
of the country from Portadown to
Belfast are not marked by any ro-
mantic scenery, nor by objects of
archiBological interest, but are rather
characterized by richly cultivated
fields, prosperous linen towns and
villages, and a general air of well-
beiog which, supposing it was imi-
versal over the Mngdom, would place
Ireland in a very different position
from that which she has hitherto
borne. Crossing the Bann by a
wooden viaduct of 5 arches, and
leaving on 1. the ch. of Drumcree, the
line traverses a rather flat low district
lying between the hills and the
shores of Lough Neagh, which is
onljr a couple of miles distant. Oc-
casional glimpses of the lough are
obtained near Lurgan; but as the
visitor to Antrim will see it to
much greater advantage, it will be
described in Rte. 12. As this district
is watered wholly by the Upper
Bann, the tourist should be ac-
quainted with the improvements
made by the manufacturers to ensure
themselves a constant and equable
water-power, by constructing a
reservoir at Lough Island Reavy,
which embraces an area of 100 acres.
The river rises in the northern face
of Slieve Muck, in the Moume range,
and flows N.W. with a considerable
fall past Hilltown to Banbridge and
Gilford. Apart from its commercial
value, it was long famous for its
pearls, which, like those in the
Conway river in N. Wales, are found
in the fihell of the muscle {Unio
atrattts), and which in the last
century were so highly esteemed,
especially those of rose colour, that
they were sold for 20l. or 30Z.
39 m. Lurgaut a populous flax town
(7772), celebrated for its diapers, the
numerous bleaching-greens in the
vicinity betokening the prevailing
occupation. There is UtUe to see
in it except the demesne of Lur-
gan Castle, the modem residence of
Lord Lurgan, a handsome Elizabethan
house, bmlt of Scotch sandstone, and
placed in a finely-wooded park.
[3 m. S.E. is Waringstown, a
manufitcturing village established by
a merchant of the name of Waring
in the time of Queen Anne. Hard
by is an old manor-house, in which
is preserved a tapestried chamber
occupied by Duke Schomberg in his
passage through the coimtryj
Passing rt. Grace Hall (C. Douglas,
Esq.), is 44^ m. Moira, a prettily-
placed town about 1 m. to ttie rt of
the stat. At this point we cross the
Lagan Navigation or Ulster Canal,
running from Lough Neagh by Moira
and Lisbum to Bel&st, a distence of
28 m., with a summit level of 120 ft.,
and affording a cheap and convenient
water carriage to the busy manu-
feictiuing villages on its course. Seve-
ral pleasant seats are congregated
near Moira, viz., Moira Wood, belong-
ing to the Earls of Moira, Broom-
mount ( — Gordon, Esq.), Friar's Hill,
Drumbane House, and Trumery
Home; where once stood a very
beautiM round tower 60 ft. in
height, which, however, has unfor-
tunately fallen. Adjoining it is the
gable of the old ch., containing a
high pointed arched window. Be-
tween Moira and Lisbum the line
passes 1. the ch. of Magheragall,
and rt the Maze, a common on
which the Hillsborough races are
held.
52 m. Lishum {Hotel: Hertford
Ireland.
Boute 3. — lAsbum — Dromore,
37
Arms), a populous town of between
7000 and 8000 Inhab., all engaged
in the staple trade, jMurticularly in
the manufacture of damasks. The
tourist who is interested in it
should visit the factory of the Coul-
sons, one of the largest damask
makers in Ireland. The creation
of the place may be ascribed to the
Conway femily, to whom Charles I.
granted a patent, and who erected a
castle here. The ch., which is
conspicuous from its handsome oc-
tagonal spire, is the cathedral ch.
of the diocese of Dromore, and
contains a monument to the pious
Jeremy Taylor, Bishop of Down and
Connor in 1667 ; also to Lieut. Dobbs,
who fell in an action against Paul
Jones, the privateer, as he was
returning from a raid on the Scotch
coast. In the ch.-yard are the
gravestones of several Huguenots
who settled here and introduced the
finer branches of the linen manu&u>
ture. Lisbum and Lurgan suffered
severely in the war of 1641, having
been both burnt to the ground. Ad-
joining the town are the castle
gardens, which are at all times open
to the townspeople by the liberality
of the late Marquis of Hertford. In
the centre of a triangular area is a
handsome market-place, surmounted
by a cupola.
Distances. — Hillsborough, 4 m. ;
Dromore, 8^, [which places may be
visited by rail. The former is an
English-looking little town on the
side of a hill, containing a well-
preserved fort, built by Sir Arthur
Hill in the reign of Charles I., and
still kept up as a hereditary garrison
under tiie Marquis of Downslnre, who
enjoys the titles of Marshal of Ulster
and Governor of the Royal Fortress of
Hillsborough. William HI. tenanted it
for a night during his march through
this part of Ireland, ** while his army
encamped on the Moor of Blaris 2
m. on the 1. of the Lisbum road,
which tract has ever siuce been
exempt from paying tithe." It is a
massive bmlding defended by 4
quadrangular bastions, and entered
by a good pointed arched gateway,
above which are 3 pointed windows.
This fort (now used as an armoury for
the yeomanry) is placed in the centre
of a fine park, the modem 'demesne
of the Marquis of Downshire, who
owns Hillsborough as well as seve-
ral other towns, all of which are
characterised by an unusual as-
pect of neatness and care. There
is here a pretty Gothic ch. with
spire 200 feet in height. It con-
tains some stained glass, a sweet-
tpned organ, and a monument by
Nollekens to Archdeacon Leslie.
Crossing a somewhat hilly district
we arrive at Dromore^ from very
early ages the seat of an abbey for
Canons Regular, which afterwards
became the cathedral for the Pro-
testant diocese of Down, Connor,
and Dromore. It fell into ruins,
however, and the . present ch. was
bidlt on its site by Bishop Jeremy
Taylor, who, together with Dr. Percy,
autiior of * ReUques of Ancient Eng-
lish Poetry,' were the 2 most note-
worthy prektes. Adjoining the town
is the Palace, the grounds designed
and planted by the latter bishop after
the model of Shenstone's Ledsowes.
The scanty ruins of a castle and
some earthworks are to be seen
near the town, and in the groimds
of Gill Hall» the residence of R. C.
Brush, Esq. To the N.E. is the
rath of Draib Mor, 200 feet in
diameter at the base, and surrounded
by a rampart and parapet. It is
said that there was a covered way
between it and the Lagan.]
From Lisbum the rly. is accom-
panied on 1. by a chain of hills
extending to Belfast, where they
assume a considerable height, and
add very much to the beauty of
that ci^. They are in feet a range
of chalk rocks capped by basaltic
strata, which run southward as
fiar as Lurgan, being the most
southerly point in which chalk strata
88
Boute 4. — Nevory to Belfast.
Ireland.
are observed in Ireland. In the neigh-
bourhood of Lisburn the 'height is
only 820 ft., but it soon increases to
1567 at Divis, and 1142 at Cave Hill
overlooking Belfast.
54 m. 1. the village of Lambey, and
Glenmore, the seat of J. Richard-
son, Esq. Crossing the river Der-
raghy, and passing the pretty
fiictory village of Dunmurry, the
tourist arrives at 60 m. the northern
metropolis of
Belfast {Hotels: Donegal Arms;
Imperial). (Bte. 5.)
ROUTE 4.
FROM NEWRY TO BELFAST, THROUGH
ROSTREVOR AND DOWNPATRICK.
Newry ^Rte. 3 ) is connected with
"Warrenpomt by a short rly., which
leaves the town from stats, at Dublin
Bridge and Edward St., and runs
parallel with the Newry river, hav-
ing on 1. a pretty road garnished
with woods.
At 4J m. Narrow Water the estuary
is suddenly contracted by the projec-
tion of a tongue of rock, occupied by
the ruins of Narrow Water Castle
(anc. Caisl-uisce), a singular square
battlemented tower, which before
the days of artillery was well situ-
ated for defensive purposes. The
present fortress was built by the
Duke of Ormonde in 1663 to re-
place an older one that had been
destroyed in the previous wars. It
has seen many vicissitudes; amongst
others, serving as a kennel for
hounds, and a salt-work. The
botanist will find Sagina maritima
near the ruins.
The woods overhanging the road
on the 1. are those of Narrow
Water House (Roger Hall, Esq.),
a charmingly situated residence.
commanding grand views of the
opposite mountains of Carling-
ford. The house is a mixture of
styles, but the grounds are well
worth a visit. At the entrance
of the Clanrye, or Newry River,
into Carlingford Bay, is
[6 m. Warrenpointf the terminus
of the rly., and the port of Newry
{Hotels: Victoria; Crown). It is
a pleasant little town, exhibiting at
one end the characteristics of a sea-
port, and, at the other, of a bathing-
place, though from the latter por-
tion, which is washed by the waters
of the Lough, there is such a view
as falls to the lot of few watering-
places in Great Britain. On the rt. are
the large ranges of the Carlingford
MountMns, amongst which the chief
are Clermont Cairn 1674 ft, and Car-
lingford 1935 ft. At their foot
nestles the village of Omeath nearly
opposite Warrenpoint, and further
down is Carlingford itself; wlule on
the horizon are the lighthouses of
Greenore Point and the Block
House. On the 1. the Moume Moun-
tains rise still higher and more
abruptly. In a corner, under Slieve
B&n, is Rostrevor, embowered in
woods, the road to it skirting the
coast amidst a succession of pretty
residences. Below Rostrevor the
Lough expands, but contracts again
at Greencastle, from which point the
open sea may be said to commence.
Warrenpoint is largely patronized
by the inhabitants of Newry and
the N.E. counties generally; and
perhaps there is scarce any place
which offers so many seaside advan-
tages with so little of the expense
or extortion peculiar to such towns.
Distances.— 'Newry f 6 m. ; Carling-
ford, 6 ; Kilkeel, 12 ; Rostrevor, 2.
Excursions. —
1. Rostrevor and Slieve B^.
2. Carlingford and Omeath.
Conveyances. — Rail to Newry.
Before quitting Warrenpoint the
tourist should take a boat and cross
over to Omeath {Hotel: O'Hagan's),
Ireland.
Boute 4. — Carlingfm'd,
89
a picturesque little spot at tlie foot
of the mountains, and thence proceed
to Carlingford. The road runs close
to the sea, but little room being left
for it by the hills which rise so
abruptly. Soon the Two-mile River
rushes down from the Omeath
Mountain; and a little further on,
the Golden River, after a rapid
course from the rugged heights of
Slieve Foy, falls into the sea.
6 m. Carlingford {Inn: Hum-
phreys') was once a town of such im-
portance that it is said to have pos-
sessed no less than 32 buildings in the
shape of castles and abbeys, and of
such antiquity that it claims the
honour of being the landing place of
St. Patrick in the 5th cent. The
probable explanation of the former
statement is, that in the warlike days
of the Pale every house in Carling-
ford was built in the castellated form
for the purposes of defence and pro-
tection. King John ordered a castle to
be erected, which was accordingly
done by De Courcey in 1210. The
town quickly grew up aroimd it, and
played no inconsiderable part in the
troublous history of the times. As
evidence of the rank it took, Carling-
ford obtained charters from Edward
II., Henry IV., Henry VH., Eliza-
beth, James I., and James II, It
is charmingly situated in a little
nook of the Lough, and commands
glorious views of the Moume Moun-
tains, but has this disadvantage, that,
owing to the height and position of
the hills behind, it gets shorn of a
large proportion of sunlight. The
ruins consist—
I. Of King John's Castle, a ram-
bling, massive fortress of the 13th
cent., the situation of which is not
the least curious thing about it. It
is built upon a rock, somewhat the
shape of a horseshoe, with the eastern
side overlooking the sea. Here was
the principal entrance, defended by
a platform, the west or land side
being protected by the mountain-
pass. In the interior, in addition
to the apartments, is a courtyard,
round which ran a gallery, with
recesses at tiie loopholes for the
protection of the archers. The walls
were of the thickness in some places
of lift.
2. Between the castle and the
abbey is a square tower, the windows
of which are curiously carved with
serpents, grotesque heads, and other
devices.
3. The Abbey, founded by Richard
De Burgh, Earl of Ulster, in the
14th cent, for the Dominican order,
combines in an imusual degree the
military with the ecclesiastical cha-
racter.
It consists of a nave and chancel,
at the jtmction of which rises a square
tower on pointed arches. At the W.
end are two other towers or turrets
connected by a battlement, and at
the E. end is a pointed window, all
the tracery and muUions having dis-
appeared long ago.
In 1649 Lord Inchiquin, one of
Cromwell's generals, occupied Car-
lingford, and, with the usual irre-
verence of those days, turned the
abbey into a stable.
There is one more square tower,
which probably belonged to the
fortified houses of the Pale. On the
roof is the King s Seat, ** so called
because the Lord Thomas of Lan-
caster, son of Henry IV., who landed
in 1408 as Lord Lieutenant of Ire-
land, used often to sit upon a stone
seat between the battlements to enjoy
the prospect."
Though Carlingford is well situ-
ated for the purposes of trade, it
has none, save in an article dear
to gourmands — oysters. To every
inhabitant of Dublin the name of
Carlingford oysters is sacred, and
deservedly so, as they are un-
questionably the finest and most
luscious kind to be obtained. " The
oyster fishery is late, not commencing
before the 1st Monday in November,
and ending on the 1st Saturday in
March. The beds extend from Green-
40
Boute 4:,—Newry to Belfast,
Ireland.
ore Point up to Narrow Water,
and during the season 8 or 10 sail-
boats, and nearly 100 row-boats, with
5 men in each, are engaged in
dredging." Such is the reputation
that "rale Carlingfords " have ob-
tained, that 9-lOths of the supplies
sold in the towns are Carlingfords
only in name. Should the traveller
be in the N.E. of Ireland during the
oyster season, he should pay a visit
to Warrenpoint for the purpose of
identifying and tasting the true kind.
The pedestrian should not leave
this beautiful neighbourhood without
ascending Oarlingford Mountain, the
highest point of the lofty range that
fills up this promontory of Louth,
It commences at Fathom Hill, oppo-
site Newry, and from that point
abruptly rises to 1000 ft., attaining
the maximum at Oarlingford, 1935 ft.,
to the E. of which a deep glen runs up
&om the sea, dividing the range like
a fork. The view, as may be easily
imagined, is superb. Northward are
the Mourne Mountains, Slieve Bdn,
and Slieve Donard, with their at-
tendant groups. Eastward are the
Slieve GuUion Hills and the undu-
lating country between Dundalk,
Odstleblayney and Armagh. South-
ward is the bay of Dundalk with its
headlands, from Oooley Point imme-
diately underneath to Dunany Point
and Clogher Head. The geological
structure of the Oarlingford mountains
is trap, in various states of crystal-
lization, from amorphous basalt to
porphyrated and crystalline green-
stone.
3 m. beyond Oarlingford is Green-
ore Point, where it is in contem-
plation to erect a large dock for the
accommodation of Newry shipping,
the connection to be maintained by
a rly.]
Ti)e drive from Warrenpoint to
Rostrevor is hardly to be equalled
for beauty, either of mountain or
coast scenery. The road is lined
with pretty seats, the most con-
spicuous being Moygannon (Major
Hall), Bladenburgh, otherwise called
Topsy-turvy (D. Ross, Esq.), Rosetta
(S. Reid, Esq.), Oarpenham (Mrs.
Ford), Green Park (Hon. Mr8.Maude),
and Drumsisk (H. Bowan, Esq.), near
which last is a lofty granite obelisk
to the memory of Gen. Ross, who,
according to the inscription, was pre-
sent at the afi^s of Alexandria,
Maida,. Yittoria, Oorunna, and the
Pyrenees.
8 m. Rostrevor {Hold : Sangster's),
the sweetest little watering-place
to be found in the 8 kingdoms :
quiet, sheltered by mighty moun-
tains and shady woods, it will equally
suit the delicate invalid requiring
sea air, the artist seeking materials
for his taste, and the general visitor.
The little town is placed between
the embouchure of 2 rivers, and is
flanked on one side by the Lodge,
the residence of Oof. Roxburgh.
From the Woodhouse (the beautiful
villa of S.Ramadge, Esq.), rather more
than a mile firom the town, the ascent
is usually commenced of the Rostrevor
Mountain, or Slieve Ban, which rises
very steeply to the height of 1595 ft.
About 2-3rds of the way up, on the
top of a secondary hill, separated by
a valley from Slieve Ban, is Olough-
more ("Cloech Mor," great stobe, or
Oloech Meor, finger stone), a singular
boulder mass of granite, of about 30
tons. There is a legend atached to
it that the giant Finn M*Oomhal was
challenged by Benandonner, a Scotch
giant,, which challenge being ac-
cepted, the pair confronted each
other, the one on Oarlingford, the
otiier on Slieve Bfin. Finn, by way of
a preparatory training, flung Olough-
more at his antagonist across the
Lough, who decamped in a fright.
The walks in the neighboiwhood of
Rostrevor are numerous and varied,
the Mourne Hills alone furnishing
as much collar-work as is needed by
any pedestrian.
Excursions. —
1. Warrenpoint,
Ireland. Boute 4. — Hilltown — Kilkeel — Newcastle,
41
2. Cloughmore and Slieve Ban.
3. Kilbroney and Hilltown.
4. Kilkeel and Greencastle.
[A picturesque road runs through
a gap in the hills to
7 m. nilUoum, passing Kilbroney
and its ruined ch., one of the
simplest and earliest form, over-
shadowed by the branches of a fine
old oak, which has grown out of the
wall to a greath eight Hilltown
{Hotel, Devonshire Arms, very good)
is a remarkably neat village under
the care of the Marquess of Down-
shire, situated at the confluence of
the 2 or 3 streamlets that form the
Bann. About 2 m. on the Down-
patrick road is a cromlech supported
on 3 stones, locally known as Finn's
Fingerstone.]
Passing on the rt. Ballyedmond
(A. Stewart, Esq.), and crossing
the Causeway Water, the tourist
reaches 15 m. Moume Park, the
beautiful estate of the Earl of Kil-
morey, the woods and grounds of
which clothe the base of Knockchree
(Hill of the Deer), 1013 ft., crowned on
the summit with an observatory. Here
the White Water is crossed, and a
road on rt leads to the sands into
which it empties itself, near Green-
castle Point. The fortress, which
gives this name, is one of those
square massive towers erected by
the Anglo-Norman barons to protect
their possessions, and prior to the
days of ordnance it must have proved
a sufficient guard for the entrance
of Carlingford Lough, though now
it would be overlooked from any
one of the neighbouring heights.
A square embattled tower flanks it
at each comer. The second floor is
on a level with tlie rock on which
the castle is built, and is supported
by arches. A direct road of 4 J m.
runs from it to
Kilked {Inn : Kilmorey Arms ;
middling), a thriving townlet of
some 1300 Inhab. Though placed
on a fine strand, affording every
accommodation for bathing, and
not far from the foot of the
Moume Mountains, Kilkeel has not
as yet assumed the position of a
watering-place. Perhaps, however,
in the estimation of many this may bo
an additional attraction. Near the
town is the Abbey, the residence of
T. Gibson Henry, Esq.
Conveyances. — Car to Newry; to
Newcastle.
Distances. — Bostrevor, 10 m. ;
Newry, 18 ; Newcastle, 12 ; Dun-
drum, 17 ; Greencastle, 4J ; Moume
Park, 3; Hilltown, 13.
From Kilkeel the road, crossing
the Kilkeel River, speedily ap-
proaches to the coast, occupying the
very limited strip of level ground be-
tween the mountains and the sea.
At Annalong, near which is Glass
Drummond, the seat of Mrs. Senior,
another of these mountain streams is
crossed, and again a 3rd at Bloody
Bridge, above which Spence's Moun-
tain and Crossone 1777 ft. rise
abruptly to the 1. " The road rises
perpendicularly more than 100 ft.
above the sea, from which it is se-
parated by rocky precipices and
shelving clififs, indented with yawn-
ing caverns, so terrifically lashed by
the tremendous waves as to impart to
the coast a character of extraordinary
sublimity." As we wind along the
clifi^ the beautiftil woods of Donard
Lodge come in sight and at the very
foot of Slieve Donard itself the little
town of
30 m. Newcastle {Hotel : Annesley
Arms, good), where the tourist espe-
cially if a pedestrian, should by all
means halt for a short time, that he
may ascend the mighty Donard.
Between Bloody Bridge and New-
castle are several spots marked by
some natural curiosities, and conse-
quently invested with a legend ; such
as Donard's Cave, Maggy's Leap,
and Armer's Hole, winch latter
attained its notoriety from a foul
murder committed by one Edward
Armer on his father.
Newcastle must soon prove a
42
Boute 4. — Newry to Belfast,
Ireland.
formidable rival to Rostrevor, as, in
addition to tlie usual advantages
for bathing, and more romantic
scenery, it possesses a rather cele-
brated Spa ; indeed, Dr. Knox calls
it the Scarborough of Ireland. The
Spa is situated about ^ m. from the
town on the hill-side and adjoin-
ing the beautiful grounds of Do-
nard Lodge, through which, by the
courtesy of the Earl of Annesley, the
tourist is free to wander. There
are various pleasant and picturesque
spots in the neighbourhood of the
Spa, such as the Hermit's Glen, the
Rookery, the Waterfall, &o.
[It is a longer excursion to
Bryansford {Hotel : Roden Arms, very
good), a charming little village close
to Tollymore Park, the seat of the
Earl of Roden. The visitor will not
easily tire of the beauties which meet
him at every turn during his wan-
derings through the grounds. The
river Shimna,—
" a brooklet gnBhing
From its roc^ fountain near,
Down into the valley rusbing,
So fresh and wondrous clear,"
— flows through the grounds in a
series of cascades to fall into the sea
at Newcastle, while the views of the
ocean, the Isle of Man, ajid the
overhanging mountains, are inex-
pressibly fine. From Tollymore it is
a little over 3 m. to CasUewellan,
another neat and flourishing little
town, almost surrounded by plea-
sant demesnes. Of these the most
important is Castlewellan House,
also a seat of the Earl of Annesley,
in the grounds of which is a con-
siderable lake. Near the town are the
extensive flax-spinning mills of the
Messrs. Muirhead, the first place in
Ireland where machinery was used
for this purpose.
Distances. — Dundrum, 5 m. ; Hill-
town, 9 J ; Newcastle, 4 J ; Newry, 19.]
Slieve Donard, 2796 ft., is the
highest point of the lofty Moume
range that stretches from Newry to
Dundrum, at once the finest and most
picturesque hills in the N. of Ireland,
with the exception of the Donegal
Mountains. The ascent may be
made either from the Spa Well, or
by following the course of the Glen
River on the N. side. A precipitous
escarpment that overhangs this
stream is called the Eagle Rock.
Magnificent indeed is the view
which greets the pedestrian from the
summit of Slieve Donard. To the
W. is a vast expanse of ocean, re-
lieved only by the blue hills of the
Isle of Man, in which Snafell is
plainly visible ; while Newcastle, An-
nalong, and Dundrum lie snugly
at the feet. To the N. are the
rich and varied plains of the dis-
trict known in former times as Lo-
cale, embracing many a fruitful
acre and many a prosperous town.
To the W. and S.W. are minor
satellites in the shape of the less
lofty peaks of the Moumes; the
principal of which are Slieve Com-
medagh, 2512 ft. ; Slieve Beamagh,
2394 ; SUeve Meel, 2257 ; the Cock
and the Hen Mountains in the
most northerly group ; the Chimney
Rock, 2152 ;— Slieve Bingian, 2449 ;
Slieve Lamagan, 2306; Shanlieve,
2055 ; and the Eagle Mountain,
2084, more to the S. Over Rostre-
vor are Slieve Ban and Knockchree ;
while still further beyond Newry are
the ranges of Slieve Gullion. South-
wards we have the Carlingford Hills,
the Hill of Howth, and in clear wea-
ther the faint ridges of the Wicklow
Mountains. From its peculiar posi-
tion and its huge height, Slieve Do-
nard certainly oflters one of the most
extraordinary prospects in Great
Britain.
The botanist will find on these
hills Poljrpodium dryopteris, Lyco-
podium alpinum, Garex spierostachya,
Salix herbacea, Pinguicula Lusi-
tanica, Melanopsis cambrica, &c.
The geological composition of the
Moume Mountains is granite, jrield-
ing in some places good specimens of
Ireland.
Boute 4. — Dundrum — Ardglass.
43
beryl, topaz, and emerald. "The
principal place at which they may
be obtained is the southern face of
Slieve-na-Glogh or the Diamond
Bock. Near the Chimney Rock
beryls have been found in great
numbers." — Doyle,
"* A deep vale divides it from
SUeve Guaven, or the Creeping Moun-
tain, which stands to the S.W., and
presents to the view a huge rock
resembling at a distance an old forti-
fication,, very high, and detached, as
it were, from the eastern side of the
mountain."
Conveyances from Newcastle daily
to Ballynahinch ; daily to Down-
patrick.
Distances. — Newry, 30 m. ; Rosfre-
vor, 22 ; Dundrum, 5 ; Annalong, 7 ;
Kilkeel, 12 ; Castlewellan, 4^.
Ilxcwrsions.-^
1. Armer's Hole, Maggy's Leap,
and Kilkeel.
2. Slieve Donard.
3. Tollymore and Briansford.
4. Dundrum and Ardglass.
The next point in our route is
85 m. Dundrum, a small bathing
and fishilig village, situated on the
northerly sweep of Dundrum Bay, in
which the Great Britain steam-ship
went ashore soon after the commence-
ment of her career. To the pre-
cipitous and rugged cliffe on which
the road has been hitherto carried,
succeed large tracts of sandhills and
warrens, amidst which the village
occupies no very pleasant situation.
Liithospermum maritimum Nourishes
in this locality.
On an eminence overlooking the
bay are the keep and a few outworks
of the castle, generally reputed to have
been built by De Courcey in the be-
ginning of the 14th cent., and held
by the Templars : it aftierwards passed
into the hands of the Magenuises, a
powerful clan who had many posses-
sions in this part of Ireland. It was
a strong fortress, and, " when in repair,
often proved a good guard to this pass,
and OS often an offensive neighbour to
the English planted in Lecale, accord-
ing to the hands that possessed it." —
Harris. Its principal features are a
circular keep and tower, with a barbi-
can and other outworks, which were
dismantled by Cromwell.
Near the castle is a ruined man-
sion, of probably the 16th cent.
Dundrum possesses a smaU pier
built by the Marquess of Downshire,
and an equally small trade : indeed
the navigation hereabouts is not very
safe, owing to a her at the entrance
of the river, and an ugly reef of rocks,
known as Craigalea, and the Cow
and Calf.
[The traveller who wishes to pro-
ceed at once to Downpatrick 8^ m.,
can do so by striking inland, passing
Ai-dilia (Rev. W. Annesley), and
Moimt Panther (J. Allen, Esq.) : the
latter place acquired its singular
name from a certain legend resem-
bling that of St. George and the
Dragon.
At the village of Clough there is
only a single tower remaining of the
castle, and in the neighbourhood is
Seaforde village and House (Rev. W.
Forde).]
Passing 37^ m. rt. Tyrella House
(A. H. Montgomery, Esq.) and ch., the
road again approaches near the coast,
which further on juts out to the
Promontory of St. John, the western
boundary of Dundrum Bay. On the
point is a Coast Guard Stat., and a
Lighthouse showing an intermittent
Ught.
The ch. of St. John's contains a
singular font,, in which there is no
passage for the water to escape.
43 m. KiUoughf a fishing village,
on the E. shore of the httie bay of
KiUough, which runs up for some
little distance, necessitating a con-
siderable detour in the road. On the
opposite shore is Coney Island, and
f m. further
Ardglass, which in the days of its
glory was the principal port in all
Ulster, and was tiiought of such great
44
Boute 4. — Newry to Belfast,
Ireland.
importance as to require the protection
of no less than 5 castles. Although
these palmy times are gone, Ardglass
even yet enjoys a good deal of trade,
from being the head-quarters of the
northern herring fishery, in which
something like 3000 fishermen are en-
gaged. It is also an attractive bath-
ing-place for the residents of Down-
patrick.
The name of Ardglass (anc. Ard-
glaisi}, "High Green," is derived
from its position between two hillf,
the Ward of Ardglass on the W.,
and the Ward of Ardtole on the E.,
both useful landmarks to sailors.
A large trading company obtained a
grant from Henry IV. and settled
here, and it is to them that with
most probability must be ascribed
the erection of the New Works, a very
singular range of buildings overlook-
ing the rocks of the bay. They are in
length 250 ft., and are flanked by
a square tower at each end, in ad-
dition to one in the centre, the
intervening walls being entered by
15 arched doorways, between each of
which is a square window. There
were thus 18 rooms on the ground
floor, with the same niunber in an
upper story, and were evidently
used as a fortified warehouse for mer-
chants. " In 1789 Lord Charles
Fitzgerald, son of the Duke of Lein-
ster, who was then proprietor, caused
that portion of the building between
the central and western towers to be
enlarged in the rear, and raised to
the height of 3 stories in the castel-
lated style ; and from that time it has
been called Ardglass Castle. It was
formerly called Horn Castle, either
from a great quantity of horns found
on the spot, or from a high pillar
which stood on its summit previously
to being roofed.'* — Lewis. To the
W. of this is the square tower of
Choud or Cowd Castle. Overlooking
the town on the N.W. is the ancient
King's Castle, which has been in-
corporated with the handsome modem
residence of Major Beauclerk, the pro-
prietor of the town. Lastly, in the
centre is Jordan's Castle, the only
one which has any historical celebrity
among the whole number. During
the insurrection of the Earl of Ty-
rone, in the reign of Elizabeth, one
Simon Jordan held this fortress suc-
cessfully for 3 years, until he was
relieved by the Lord Deputy Mount-
joy. It is singular that, considering
the former importance of Ardglass
and the evident care bestowed on its
defences, so little is known of its
history or of the builders of these
fortres^^es. Their age is probably that
of the 15th cent. The only remain-
ing curiosity in the neighbourhood is
a cavern at the head of the creek of
the Ardtole, about ^ m. frx>m the
town.
Distances. — Dundrum, 9 m. ;
Strangford, 9 ; Downpatrick, 7.
The road continues parallel with
and at a short distance from the
coast, which is rocky and precipitous.
At 47 m. is Guns Island, connected
with the mainland by a causeway,
and at Killard Point, a little further
on, commence the narrow straits
that connect Strangford Lough with
the sea.
50 m. Kildieft a lofty square for-
tress of Anglo-Norm, character, and
generally ascribed to De Courcey as
the founder, although it subsequently
came into the possession of the
Bishops of Down, who occasionally
used it as a residence. The bishops
of those days were not as stainless in
reputation as they are now, for we
are informed that John Boss, who
was made Bishop of Down in 1387,
waa "marked with almost every
vice." The first story is vaulted,
and the second has a carved chim-
ney-piece. At the narrowest part of
the straits is
53 m. Strangford^ a fishing town,
exactly opposite Portaferry TRte. 5).
Adjoining is Castleward, a oeautifid
estate of Viscount Bangor ; and over-
looking the town on the N. is the
ruined keep of Audley Castle, one of
Ireland.
Boute 4. — Downpatrick,
45
the 27 fortreesesthat were founded by
De Courcey.
Distances. — Portaferry, J m. ; Down-
patrick, 8 ; Ardglass, 9 ; Kilclief, 2 J.
The tourist now bids adieu to the
wild sea-girt road which he has
travelled for so many miles, and
follows an inland route to
61 m. Downpatrick (Hotd: Den-
vir's). (Pop. 3840.) This ancient
city is situated on the side of a
hill, which, curving round like an
amphitheatre, overlooks a plain
through which the river Quoile
winds its reedy way towards Lough
Strangford. Approaching either by
rail or road, the tourist has a good
view of the cathedral, standing
at the extreme W. of the town.
There can be no doubt of its great
age, as we hear of it even before
St. Patrick's time as being the resi-
dence of the native kings of Ulidia
and the Dummi of Ptolemy. St.
Patrick did not arrive till 432, and
then founded an abbey, the site of
which was granted to him by Dichu,
son of Trichem, lord of the soil,
whom he had converted to Cliris-
tianity. The sanctity in which this
abbey was held maybe inferred from
the fact that St. Patrick was buried
here, together with St. Bridget and
St. Oolumb, 2 of Ireland's most holy
saints, a circumstance commemorated
by a distich of Sir John de Courcey
in 1185, on the discovery of the
graves—
•* Hi tres in Duno ttunttlo tumulantur in unp ;
Brigida, Fatricius, atque Culumba Pius.''
This De Courcey had established him-
self in Down vi et armis, and main-
tained his position not onlyagainst the
native princes, but even against the
army of King John, whose allegiance
he had shaken off to transfer it to
Arthur of Brittany. He was, how-
ever, ultimately seized when perform-
ing his devotions in the cathedral,
and made prisoner. The cathedral
suffered much at different times,
having been burnt down by Edward
Bruce, and again by Lord Grey in
1538, for which act of profanity he
was afterwards beheaded.
The town is well built, and divided
into English, Irish, and Scotch quar-
ters, the latter being an important
element in the population of all the
N.-eastem towns ; there are also
some handsome county buildings —
such as the Court-house, Infirmary,
and Gaol, the cost of tMs last being
63,000Z. The cathedral is com-
paratively modem ; the old building,
burnt by Lord Grey, continued in
ruins for 250 years, the ch. of LLsbum
doing duty in the mean time as the
cathedral. In 1790, however, the
present Perp. building was raised,
consisting of a nave, choir, and
aisles, with clerestory, and a fine
tower of 4 stages at the W. end.
At the E. end are also 2 small
castellated towers of 3 stages, sur-
mounted by a parapet, and finished
off with broach spires. There is
an E. window of 12 compart-
ments, and above it 3 ogee-headed
niches which once contained the
images of the saints so ruthlessly
mutilated by Lord Grey. Under
the window is a deeply recessed
doorway, which is said to have be-
longed to the old cathedral. The
aisles are separated from the nave by
ranges of pointed arches, and the
roof is groined and ornamented at the
intersections with clustered foliage.
From earliest times the Bishopric
of Down has been joined to that of
Connor, although one or two bishops
caused them to be separated : they
were, however, again united in the
15th cent., and are now incorporated
with that of Dromore. Amongst the
Protestant bishops, after the Refor-
mation, was the pious Jeremy Tay-
lor, who at the same time held the
see of Dromore.
The visitor will not fail to enjoy
the exquisite panorama of distont
hills from the ch.-yard, in which
the Moume ranges are especially
conspicuous.
46
Boute 4. — Newry to Belfast
Ireland.
It may be mentioned that a fine
round tower once stood at the W.
end, but was taken away, as fears
were entertained lest it should fall
and damage the cathedral.
The antiquary should visit the
Rath of Downpatrick, not far from
the gaol. It was formerly known as
Rath Keltain, " the Fort of Oeltain,"
and is the largest in the county,
being 895 yards broad at the base
and surrounded by 3 ramparts.
There is also a remarkable Druid-
ical ring, with an avenue of stones
running for 35 ft. in a N.E. direc-
tion, on the hill of Sheve-na-griddle,
8 m. to the E. On the way thither
are the wells of Struel (Struile or
Sluith-fuile, the Stream of Blood),
whither on Midsummer-day crowd
pilgrims from every quai-ter to try
the efficacy of the waters in washing
away their sins. It is one of the
most celebrated resorts in all Ire-
land, and famous, or rather in-
famous, for the mingled scenes of
credulity, impiety, and indecency
which are allowed to be openly carried
on. Having completed their weary
pilgrimage on bare knees up
Struel Hill, they resort to the wells.
*• These are 4 in number — the Body
Well or Well of Sins, the Limb
Well, the Eye Well, and the Well
of Life. If they pay a fee, they can
go into the first, in which they are
accommodated with a place to un-
dress ; if not, they must go to the
Limb Well, in which case they have
to undress before the multitude, and
repair in a state of nudity to the
well, into which they plunge pro-
miscuously. Having thus washed
away their sins at the expense of
their modesty, they repair to the
Eye Well to wash away the impedi-
ments to their spiritual vision, after
which they partake of the • Waters
of Life,' or, as some call it, the Well
of Forgetfulness."— Doyfo. The per-
formances were usually closed with
a series of religious (?) satumaha,
which, if the accounts of some
writers be true, should have been
lon$j ago summarily stopped by the
civil authorities.
2 m. N.E. are slight remains of
the abbey of Savly built in the 12th
cent, by Malachi O 'Morgan, Bishop
of Down. It was formerly a cruci-
form ch., but the greater part of it
has disappeared. About a mile to
the W., on the shore of the estuary
of the Quoile, stand the ruins of an
embattled tower.
On the opposite side of the estu-
ary are the ruins of the abbey of
Inch, erected in the 12th cent, by
John de Courcey, and supplied with
monks from Furness, in Lancashire.
Although originally a cruciform ch.,
little is left of it save the chancel,
which is lighted by E. Eng. lancet
windows of beautiful design. A
primitive ch. of much earlier date
still exists on the island, and is said
to have been the predecessor of the
present abbey. Over the S. door is
a sculpture, representing a person
praying to the Saviour on the Cross.
Conveyances from Downpatrick to
Bel&st by rail. Car daily to Newry
and Newcastle.
Distances. — Newry, by the coast
road, 61 m. : Dundrum, 8J ; Strang-
ford, 8 ; Ardglass, 7 ; Killough, 7^ ;
Killyleagh, 6 ; Belfast, 27 ; Ballyna-
hinch, by rail, 12^ ; Struel, 3 ; Saul, 2,
Excursions. —
1. Strangford and Kilclief.
2. Struel and Saul.
3. Ballynahinch.
Passing the village and stat. of
Crossgar 5J m., we arrive at a point
from whence a short branch is givea
off to
\Ballynahinch, which of late years
has attracted valetudinarians from
its bracing air and the efficacy
of its medicinal waters. There
are 2 wells, the one containing^
lime, sulphuric, muriatic, and car-
bonic acids ; and the other having,
in addition, a small amount of prot-
oxide of iron. They are strongly
recommended by Dr. Knox in cases
Ireland.
BotUe 5. — Belfast to Donaghadee.
47
of hepatic affections, cutaneous dis-
eases, and general debility. The Spa
is tastefully planted and laid out in
ornamental walks, and the accom-
modation cheap and good. Adjoin-
ing the town is Montalto, formerly
the residence of the Earls of Moira,
and now of D. Kerr, Esq., M.P.
Ballynahinch is situated pleasantly
enough in a vale at the foot of the
Slieve Oroob Mountains (1753 ft.),
which lie between it and Castle wel-
lan, and contain the sources of the
river Lagan, that runs by Dromore to
Belfast. Ou the side of Slieve Oroob
the antiquary will find a very large
rath, 80 yards round at the base.
Excursions may also be made to
Hillsborough, 9 m. ; Banbridge, 17
(Kte. 3) ; and Castlewellan, 12^.]
Excursions. —
1. Hillsborough and Dromore
(Kte. 3).
2. SUeve Croob.
3. Killyleagh, a small town on the
rt. of the rly., and beautifully situ-
ated on the shores of Lough Strang-
ford. It is remarkable for being the
birthplace of Sir Hans Sloan, the
founder of the British Museum. The
learned Dr. Hincks, so well known for
his Egyptian and Assyrian researches,
Is the present rector of the parish.
A very ancient castle, beautifully
restored by the late Archibald Hamil-
ton, and of which one of the towers
certainly dates from the reign of King
John, crowns the hill at the back of
the town.
Continuing our course on the main
line, we arrive at'
114 m. SaintfiM, a small but busy
maniifacturing town, where linens
are made lor the Belfast market.
Here was fought the battle of Saint-
ileld in 1789, a sharp and bloody
engagement between the United
Irishmen under Munroe, and the
Yeomanry under Col. Stapleton.
The latter retreated after losing 60
men, though the rebels are stated
to have lost 3(50. Three days after
this action Munroe advanced on
Ballynahinch with an army of 7000,
but here his good fortime deserted
him. The Koyal forces under Gen.
Nugent had occupied the town, and,
although the rebels fought with
desperate gallantry, discipline pre-
vailed, and they were routed with
great slaughter, Munroe himself
being captured and executed. The
ill-success of this last movement com-
pletely crushed the rebellion.
19 m. Comber Stat., the point of
junction with the Donaghadee lino
(Kte. 5). From hence it is 8 m. to
Belfast.
ROUTE 5.
BELFAST TO DONAGHADEE.
Belfast {Hotels: Imperial, Royal,
the best ; Queen s, Albion, good ;
besides several others of a less ex-
pensive character) is the metropolis
of N. Ireland, and indeed ranks
next to Dublin in the whole king-
dom for size and importance. It is
a city of essentially modem growth
and appearance, and as such will
surprise and please the traveller who
visits it after any lengthened ex-
perience of Irish towns, on account of
its spacious and well-arranged streets
and squares, its general cleanliness
and good order, and the beautiful
examples of decorative architecture
displayed so largely in its public
buildings. Bel&st appears to owe
these advantages in a great degree
to the &<.'t that it is presided
over and inhabited by a race
which unites the Scottish thrift and
decorum with Irish impulsiveness
and kindliness. A fort is known to
have existed at " Beula-fearsad," the
Mouth of the Ford, before the year
1178, but, with the exception of re-
peated incursions by the natives, it
48
Boute 5. — Belfast
Ireland.
had but little history, and its im-
portance as a port may be altogether
dated from the time of James I.,
when the estates were granted to
the Cliichester femily, and certain
port monopolies were purchased from
the Corporation of Carrickfergus. In
the Parliamentary wars it was taken
by Gen. Munroe, and changed hands
four times in six years, a state of
tilings which did not add to the
increase of trade or population. (Pop.
120,.544.)
The situation is well adapted for
commercial as well as residential
purposes, the town lying at the base
of a lofty chain of hills that runs up
from the S., and ends abruptly
with the Cave Hill, a somewhat pre-
cipitous basaltic eminence rising to
the height of 1158 ft. To the E. is
the noble Belfast Lough, the head
of which is marked by a singularly
long bridge crossing the Lagan at
its mouth. In consequence of the
shelter afforded by these hills, the
temperature is very mild, being only
one degree below that of Torquay.
The communications of Belfast are
many and regular : inland by 4
railways; seaward, by steamers in-
numerable, which keep up a daily
intercourse with the principal Eng-
lish and Scotch ports.
The number of vessels that entered
and cleared out from the port in
1859 was between 6000 and 7000,
the annual value of its imports and
exports being 9,000,000^., and the
gross produce of the customs in
Sie same years 376,000i. Linen
is of course the staple trade, Bel-
fast being the centre of all the
manufacturing districts of Down,
Antrim, and the northern counties.
" A great source of employment for
females has of late years sprung up
in the north of Ireland in me work-
ing of patterns on muslin with the
n^dle. This manufocture employs
about 300,000 persons scattered
throughout Ulster. About 40 firms
are engaged in the trade, some being
Irish houses, and others agents for
Scotch firms ; the gross value of
the manufactured goods amounts
to about 1,400,000Z."— ITiom'a Di-
reetory.
The harbour is formed by the
tidal channel of the Lagan, through
which excavations were cut, with a
depth of 23 ft. at high water. Both
sides are lined with quays, 5000 and
3500 ft. respectively on the western
and eastern sides. The Prince's and
the Clarendon Docks afford every
accommodation for foreign vessels
loading or unloading, and there are
graving-docks and slips for repairs. •
The Lagan is crossed by 3 bridges,
of which the Queen's (of 5 granite
arches of 50 ft. span) is the most
beautiful. It stands on the site of
the Long Bridge, which was 840 ft.
in length. The other 2 are the
Albert and the Ormeau Bridges.
The places of interest in the town
are soon exhausted, as their chief
beauty consists in the exteriors.
The Commercial Buildings have a
fine Ionic facade, and the Custom-
house, which is well situated, is a
freestone edifice, with a Corinthian
front. The Banks, however, carry
off the palm for decorative art, and
the Ulster Bank in particular should
be well studied for its elaborate
details, particularly of the entabla-
tures and cornices. The visitor
should also inspect the interior,
which is equally beautifid, though
perhaps as a whole a little over-
done.
The Queen's College, near the
Botanic Gkirdens (weU worth visit-
ing), is a Tudor building, with a
front 600 ft. in length, relieved
by a graceful tower in the centre.
Of very opposite style is the other
educational institution of Belfast, the
Presbyterian College.
The Bel&st Museum, in College
Square, has " its first story in imi-
tation of the Choragic monument of
Thrasyllus, with a portico which is
an exact copy of that of the octagon
Ikexand.
Boute b.-^Cave Hill.
49
tower of ADdronicus at Athens;
the upper portions are designed after
the -Temple of Mmerva."
The churches are, generally speak-
ing, of the classical order of archi-
tecture ; the 2 hest being the Parish
Church, which has a lofty tower and
cupola, and Christ Church, a Perp.
building with an octagonal spire, an
agreeable exception to the prevailing
style. The portico of St. George's
was originally a portion of the front
of Ballyscallion House, a mansion
erected by the eccentric Earl of
Bristol, on the shores of Lough
Neagh. On his death, it was pur-
chased and presented to this ch. by
Dr. Alexander, Bishop of Down.
The visitor should also notice the
trister Hall in Bedford Street, the
Music Hall in May Street, and a very
fine Institution, of the Tudor order,
for the Dea^ Dumb, and Blind.
The flax-mills are perhaps the
most interesting objects in the city,
and the visitor should not omit
seeing one of these establishments.
That of Messrs. Mulholland is the
largest, and will give a better idea
than almost any other of the extent
of the trade. The firm that owns
this enormous factory was one of the
first to start the linen-yam manufac-
ture in Belfast, and now employs
directly and indirectly nearly 25,000
persons. The other principal fac-
tories are those of Craig and Co.,
which contain 321 looms; the Bed-
ford Weaving Co. ; Messrs. Hinds,
Foster, Connor, and Co., &c. A
sketcli of the flax and linen trade
will be found in Introduction (p.
xxxiv); but it may be mentioned
here that in I860 there were ex-
ported from Belfast upwards of
65,000,000 yards of linen, valued at
about . 2,000,(»00?. sterling, and at
the same time yams and threads to
the amount of 3.000,000 lbs., valued
at 764,0002. Nor is it only as a
manufacturing centre that Belfast is
pre-eminent; she is equally noted
for the position gained by her in-
habitants in hterature and the arts,
which are cultivated to an extent
unknown in any other city in Ire-
land, save Dublin. The earliest
edition of tlie Bible was printed
here in 1704, and the third news-
paper, as regards date, viz. the Bel-
fiist News-letter, began its existence
in 1737. The communications by
land and water are many and fre-
quent. Three railways have their
terminus here, viz., the Bel&st and
County Down to Donaghadee and
Downpatrick; the Ulster to Porta-
down and Omagh; the Northern
Counties to Coleraine : all of which
throw out branch-lines in diflerent
parts of their course.
The following steamers also sail
from the port: to Bristol weekly;
Fleetwood daily; Annan 3 times a
week ; to Carhsle ; to Dublin, Dum-
fries, Liverpool, Glasgow, Wliite-
haven, Morecambe, Waterford, Lon-
donderry, London.
Distances. — Dublin, 113 m. ; Dro-
gheda, 81 ; Dundalk, 59 ; Deny, 94 ;
Downpatrick, 27 ; Donaghadee, 22 ;
Holy wood, 5 : Bangor, 12 ; Newtown-
ards, 13i ; Comber, 8 ; lisbum, 7 ;
Moira, 14; Hillsborough, 19 ; Antrim,
22 ; Carrickfergus^ 0^.
Excursions. —
1 . Cave Hill and Divis.
2. Dundonald, Kempe Stones.
3. Drumbo.
4. Holywood.
5. Carrickfergus (Etc. 13V
6. Antrim (Rte. 12).
The tourist should not leave Bel-
fast without paying a visit to Cave
HiU^ which overhangs the city, at a
distance of about 2 m., and is in-
teresting both in a geological and
antiquarian point of view. It forms
the northern termination of the
chalk ranges that stretch from Lis-
bum and are capped with basalt ;
although, geologically, the same
strata are seen to recoiomence to the
N.W. of Carrickfergus, and to extend
along the coast as mr as the Giant's
Causeway. " It consists of an over-
D
50
Boute 5. — Belfast to DonagJiadee,
Ireland.
lying mass of tabular trap in a vast
series of strata, which in some places
exceed 900 ft. of thickness in the
aggregate, resting upon a stratum
of white chalk in a highly vitrified
state, in which there is a large
quantity of flint both in laminae and
nodules; the greensand rmderlies
the chalks, beneath which the oolitic
formation crops out, but of such a
thickness that its series of beds of
gray, white, and variegated gypseous
marls have not yet been fally ex-
plored."— Doyle. In the perpen-
dicular face of the rock are the 3
caves which have given its name to
the hill ; the 2 lowest being 21 and
10 ft. respectively in length, and
the upper one considerably larger,
though so placed as to be well-nigh
inaccessible. The summit is crowned
by an earthwork, known as the Fort
of Mac Art, " from its having been
one of the last strongholds of Brian
Mac Art (O'Neill), who, with his
sept, was exterminated by Deputy
Mountjoy in the reign of Elizabeth."
On one side it is protected by the
precipice, and on the other by a
deep ditch. Cave Hill is not the
highest point of tliis range, being
overtopped on the S. side by Divis,
1567 ft., and on the N. by OoUin-
ward, 1196, while at the back are the
Wolfs Hill, 1210, and Squire's HUl,
1230. In the former hill are other
caves in the chalk limestone, and at
the base of the latter are several raths
where implements of early warfare,
such as celts, arrow-heads, and hat-
chets were discovered. If the visitor
be neither antiquary nor geologist,
he will, nevertheless, be delighted
with the view from any one of these
heights, which embrace a panorama
of great beauty. At the foot lies
Bellbst, with its churches, mills,
and docks; the harbour, and the
brcMkd lough of Strangford; the
hills of Down on the opposite side,
sprinkled with many a smiling,
village; while afar in the distance
are Uie dim outlines of the Ayrshire
coast, and on a clear day the cliflfe
of the Isle of Man. To the W. is
a broad expanse of Co. Antrim, in
which Lough Neagh plays a con-
spicuous part, while the chalk hills in
the neighboiu*hood of Coleraine and
Deny fill up the background with
grand effect. The following plants
are found here and at Colin Glen :
Asplenium ceterach, Aspidium loba-
tima, A. aculeatum, Equisetum va-
riegatum, Festuca calamaria, Listera
nidus avis, Orobanche rubra, Hiera-
cium murorum, Circaja alpina, Adoxa
moschatellina. On the retmn to the
town, the remains of an intrench-
raent, thrown up by William III. in
the grounds of Fort William close to
the water's edge, may be visited;
and near the Belfast water -works the
geologist should notice an elevated
deposit of marine shells of the ter-
tiary (pliocene) era. On the E. bank
of the Ijagan, 1 m. from Belfast, is
Ormeau, the seat of the Marquis of
Donegal. For ftirther particulars
about Belfast the traveller may con-
sult M'Comb's * Guide,* a handy and
useful little work.
[It is a pleasant excursion up the
vaUey of the Lagan to the village
of Newtown-breda, and thence to
Drumho, The former overlooks the
Lagan, from the foot of the hill of
CasUereagh, the site of the once
£Eimous palace of Con O'Neill. By
an inquisition in the reign of Eliza-
beth it appears that Con O'Neill
was the last of that sept, and was
possessed of no less than 224 town-
lands, all freehold. Adjoining the
village are a Grecian ch., built by
Viscountess Middleton, and Belvoir
Park, the seat of Sir R. Bateson,
Bart. The 'ruins of Jlie old parish
ch. of Knock are in the S.E.
portion of tiie district, and near
it is a cromlech of 5 supporters,
together with a rath.
The round tower at Drumbo is
35 ft. in height and 47 in cuxjum-
ference. Of this Petrie observes,
" The oldest towers are obvi-
Ireland.
BotUe 5. — Dundonald — Comher.
61
ously those constructed of spawled
masonry and large hammered stones,
and which present simple quadran-
gular and semicircular arched door-
ways with sloping jambs. The door-
tvay of Drumbo is only about 4 ft.
from the ground, which 'has been
much raised by interments about it,
£0 that there is no doubt but that its
elevation was originally at least 8 or
10 ft." The foundations of the old
ch., ascribed to St. Patrict, are
visible to the S.E. of the town. A
large quantity of bones and a por-
tion of skeleton were found within
this tower, which, when opened, pre-
sented all the appearances of vitrifi-
cation. On the return from Drumbo
the tourist should visit the Giant's
Ring, one of the largest and most
striking early remains existing in
the kingdom. It is an extensive
-circle, about 580 ft. in diameter,
embracing an area of 10 acres, and
enclosed by a lofty mound, of which
tlie thickness at the base is 80 ft.
This will give some idea of what the
height may have been when it was
perfect, for even now, though greatly
•dilapidated, it is high enough to
shut out tlie view of the country
Aroimd. In the centre is the altar,
4 large blocks supporting the in-
cumbent stone, while on the W. and
S. are also other detached stones,
though in the time when Harris
wrote his 'History of County Down,*
in 1744, the incumbent block is stated
to have been supported by 2 ranges
of pillars, 7 on each side. The pro-
tection, which this venerable remain
so greatly needed, has been afforded
io it by the late Viscount Dungannon,
who Imilt a strong wall all round.]
The visitor may return to Belfast
from the Knock Stat, on the Bel&tst
and County Down Rly., which con-
veys the traveller to Donaghadee
and Downpatrick, 39 m. in length,
including short branches to Holy-
wood and Ballynahinch. The stat.
is on the E. bank of the river.
fDirectly on leaviqg the town, .a
branch skirts the shores of the
lough to Sydenham and Holywood,
5 m., both pleasant marine suburbs,
where the Belfast merchants love
to dweU. Sydenham has within
the last few years been extensively
built over with villas, some of whicn
occupy the site of an ancient buiring-
ground, said to have contained this
tomb of Con O'Neill (see ante),
Holjrwood derives its name from %
Franciscan Priory founded in 1200
by one Thomas Whyte, but is now
known only as an agreeable bathing-
place, for which its position on the
shore of the lough offers many ad-
vantages. The Bishop of Down and
Connor has a residence here, known
as the Palace. The rly. is in course
of extension to Bangor.
Distances, — Belfast, 5 m. ; Bangor,
Returning to the main line, the
first stat. is 2^ m. Knock, from
whence the tourist may excurse to
the Giant^s King and Drumbo.
5 m. Dundonald, 1 m. to the E.
is a relic of antiquity known as
the Kempe Stones, an enormous
mass of rock, weighing upwards
of 40 tons, supported by 5 rude
pillars In appearance they re-
semble Druidical altars, " but their
name, and that of the townland in
which they are situated, as well as
tradition, seem to assign to them a
different origin, and to raise the
probability that they were erected
as a memorial to liie dead. The
Celtic name of the district was^
BaHle-clough-togal, i.e. 'The Towb*
of the Stone of the Strangers f the
townland is still called Green-
graves.*' — M*Comh. In the summer
of 1832 the head and horns of a
moose-deer (now extinct) were foimd
in an adjacent bog resting on marl.
8 m. Comber, the junction from
whence the line to Downpatrick
diverges (Bte. 4), is a neat thriv-
ing town, chiefly dependent on the
linen trade. The ch. is built on
the site of an ancient abbey, founded
62
Boute 5. — Belfast to Bonaghadee,
Ireland,
in 1201, the monks of which were
furnished from Whitland, or Alba-
Lauda, in Caermarthenshire. It con-
tains monuments to the memory of
persons who fell in the battle of
Saintfield, 1798 (p. 47), and in the
market-square is a monumental obe-
lisk to Sir R. Gillespie, 'a native of
this town, who fell in Java.
The rly. to Donaghadee now turns
roimd the base of Scrabo Mount, and
soon comes in sight of the craggy hill
of Camgaver 720 ft., which is capped
by a tower erected in memory of
Charles William Marquis of London-
derry, the landlord and owner of all
this property. On the rt. is Strang-
ford Lough, an inlet of which flows
to within ^ m. of Comber.
13^ m. Newtownards {Hotel : Lon-
donderry Arms), or Newtown of the
Ards, the latter being the distinguish-
ing name of the promontory lying
between Lough Strangford and the
sea, formerly designated "Altitudo
Ultorum juxta Mare Orientale.** It is
a large and well-built town, possessing
the advantages of a careful super-
vision by the Londonderry family,
whose seatMount Stewart, to the S.E.,
between Newtown and Grey Abbey,
is a fine classic building, beautifully
situated in a wooded demesne on the
shores of Strangford Lough. New-
townards, though now a bustling linen
town, was formerly noted for having
been the centre of a large number of
religious establishments, the ruins of
many of which are still in ex-
istence. The Court-house, which pos-
sesses a good doorway, was originally
the old ch., built by Sir Hugh Mont-
gomery, to whom James I., after the
forfeiture of Con O'Neill's estate,
granted the whole of the district.
The town contains a handsome oc-
tagonal cross, built to replace the
one destroyed by the insurgents.
Newtownards is well situated at the
foot of the Scrabo hills, where
limestone and lead-ore are obtained,
and at the head of the lough of
Strangford, an arm of the sea about
14 m. in length and 4 to #5 wide.
The channel of Portaferry, however,,
which communicates with the sea,
is so very narrow, that the lough looks
almost like a freshwater lake — an
appearance to which the number of
small islalids contributes; and this
same cause makes it nearly useless
for navigation purposes (Pop. 9543).
Conveyances.— Rail to Belfiast and
Donaghadee. Car to Cloghy.
Distances. — Grey Abbey, 7 m. r
Mount Stewart, 5 ; Bangor, 5 ; Do-
naghadee, 9 J ; Comber, 5J.
Excursions. —
1. Scrabo.
2. Grey Abbey and Mt. Stewart.
[This is the nearest spot from
whence to visit Grey Abbey, the road
to which skirts the N.E. shore of
Strangford Lough, and passes 5 m. the
Grecian mansion of Mount Stewart,
the seat of the Londonderry family.
The house is built of Scrabo stone,
and the interior is floored with bog-
fir found on the estates. The grounds-
are well wooded, and laid out with
taste, and contain a classic temple,
copied from the "Temple of the
Winds."
7 m. Gre7j Ahhey. a small town,
which took its rise from the founda-
tion of an abbey in the 12th cent,
for Cistercian monks, by Afric, wife
of John De Courcey, and daughter of
Godred, Eling of Man. The ruins
of this E. Eng. abbey are in re-
markably good preservation, pro-
bably owing to the fact that it was
used . as a parish ch. as late a»
1778. The choir contains some
lancet windows on the N. wall, and
a noble E. window of 3 lights,
upwards of 20 ft. in height ; a£o i
recumbent, figures. A tower, now-
fallen, rose from the centre of the
ch., and was supported by verjr
graceful and lofty arches. The abbeys
was destroyed in the rebellion of
Tjrrone, " ruinated in Tirowen's
rebellion," but was subsequently re-
built by the Montgomery family
(see ante), whose seat of Rose-
Ireland. Boute 6. — Fortaferrif — DonagJiadee,
53
mount adjoins the ruins, which still
£erve as their mausoleum. From its
picturesque situation on the lough
and the beauty of the ruins, Grey
Abbey is a fayourite excursion with
the citizens of Belfast Anchusa
sempervirens and Andromeda poly-
folia grow here. Pursuing the road
southward, the tourist reaches
10^ m. Kircuhbin, a small town,
the inhabitants of which are chiefly
occupied in the manu&cture of straw
bonnets. The little bay, on the
shore of which it is situated, re-
joices in the name of the Bloody
Bum.
15 m. rt Ardkeen, once the chief
residence of the Bishops of Down,
once possessed a monastery, of which
slight traces still exist
17^ m. I*ortaferry {Hotel: Nu-
gent Arms), the most southerly
town in the peninsula of Ards. " It
owes its origin to a castle built by
the Savage family, who came into
this part of the country with John
de Courcy shortly after the arrival
of tlie Englisli, and, the place being
well secured and garrisoned by that
powerful family, ite situation on the
strait made it a port of great im-
portance in all the subsequent wars,
during which neither it nor the
neighbouring district of the southern
Ards ever fell into the hands of the
Irish." — Lewis, The visitor should
ascend the hill of Blackbank to
the N. of the town, from which
he will obtain a very fine * view
of the whole of the Strangford
Xiou^h, or Lough Coyne, as it is
also called. Portaferry is a neat,
thriving little town, carrying on a
eoasting trade with Scotland and Li-
verpooL It contains the crumbling
remains of the castle of the Savages,
which once protected and fostered
the village. It now enjoys the more
favourable protection of a good re-
sident landlord, J. Nugent, Esq.,
whose residence, Portaferry House,
is near the town. The channel
that separates the town from the
opposite one of Strangford is about
5 m. in length and i in breadth.
"There is a violent tide through
the channel in and out of Strangf(ml
Lough, and it makes a heavy swell
when running against the wind, but
it is not da^erous to persons ac-
quainted with the passage.'* — Fraser.
The tourist can cross the ferry to
Strangford, and thence to Down-
patrick (Rte. 4), or else return by
the coast to Donaghadee through
Gloghy and Ballyhalbert Burial
Island off the shore at this point is
the most eastern land in Lrdand.
From Ballywalter, near which is
Springvale House (A. MulhoUand,
Esq.), it is 7| m. of a rocky coast-
road to Donaghadee.]
Donagluidee {Hotels : Arthur's ;
Commercial), apart from its claims to
admiration as a fine bathing-place
and marine residence, derives much
importance from the &ct of its being
the nearest port to Scotland, the
distance to Portpatrick being only
22 m. As the rly. in the sister ishmd
is now completed fix)m Carlisle to
Portpatrick, it is not unlikely that
ere long a &st steamer will be placed
on the station, and that this short
passage will be much patronised
by all northern Irish tourists, who
are haunted by the dread of the
terrible 4 hours .between Holyhead
and Kingstown. Indeed, so near is
the Scottish coast, that not only the
outlines of the hills but even the
houses can be distinctly seen in clear
weather. This is also the crossing
point of the Magnetic Telegraph.
The harbour is good, and was im-
proved at a cost of 145,000Z. Vessels
drawing 16 ft. of water can enter at
any time of the tide. The piers are
bmlt of Anglesea marble, as is also
the lighthouse, which shows a fixed
red light The only relic of antiquity
in the town is an enormous rath
70 ft high, of which advantage
has been taken to erect a powder-
magazine on the summit. The view
from it is beautiful, embracing the
54:
Boute 6. — Dtmddlk to Sligo.
Ireland.
sweep of the bay cgid town, and a long
extent of Scotch coast. (Pop. 2671.)
Distances. — Grey Abbey, 9 m. ;
Newtownards, 8i ; Groomsport, 4 ;
Bangor, 5J-, to which the shore-road
may be taken, although there is a
shorter and better one across country.
Excursions. —
1. Bangor.
2. Grey Abbey.
A little to the N. of Donaghadce
the coast trends to the W., and forms
the entrance to Bel&st Lough.
Some distance out at sea are Cope-
land Island (of considerable size),
Mew and Lighthouse Islands; on
the latter is a fixed light.
The fishing village of Groomsport
is the locale of the disembarkment
of the advanced guard of William
III.*s army under Schomberg. Ad-
joining is Groomsport House (the
Elizal^than seat or R. P. Maxwell,
Esq.).
Bangor {Hotel : Royal), as its
name implies (" Beann chair," White
Church), was in former days the
seat of an abbey of regular canons,
founded by St. Comgall in 555, and
of a school so famous for its learning,
tiiat Alfred resorted to it for pro-
Ifessors when he restored the uni-
versity of Oxford. like most of
this district, it formed a portion of
O'Neill's confiscated property, and
was transferred by James I. to
the family of Hamilton, afterwards
"Viscount Clandeboye. Only a very
minute fragment is left of the
abbey. The town is principally
dependent on muslin sewing and em-
broidering, and a large amount of
work is annually sent to England in
the shape of fine embroideries for
ladies' attire. The modem mansion,
the seat of the Ward jGoimily, is an
Elizabethan building near the town,
and in close proximity to the site of
the old castle.
Distances. — Newtownards, 5 m. ;
Holy wood, 7i ; Donaghadec, 5^ ;
Groomsport, 2.
Steamers ply daily to Belfast.
2 m. on the road leading from
Bangor to Holywood is 01anaeboye»
the seat ofLordDufferin. The house
was originally erected in the reign
of James I. ; but subsequent altera-
tions have obliterated its ancient
character. At the southern extremity
of the demesne rises a hill, crowned
by a tower built for the purpose of
enshrining some beautiful verses
written by Lady Dufferin to her son.
The structure has received the name
of Helen's Tower, and has been still
further dignified by a poetical in-
scription from the hand of Alfred
Tennyson. A small private chapel
in the park contains some ancient
architectural fragments built into its
inner walls, and an liierogl3rphic car-
touche of Tirliakah, the contemporary
of Hezekiah, Isaiah, and Sennacherib*
From the western side of the de-
mesne an avenue leads to the sea-
shore, distant about 3 m.
At Cultra, more than halfway be-
tween Holywood and Bangor, the
geologist will observe some singular
beds of dolomite, considered by Sir
R. Griffith on lithological grounds
to represent tlie Permian system of
Ireland.
ROUTE. 6.
FROM DUNDALK TO ENNISKILLEIST
AND SLIGO.
The Dundalk and Enniskillen Rly.
was opened in 1852, and, taken per
8e, is 62 m. in length ; but as this
company have also leased the Ennis-
killen and Londonderry line, the two
are the same for aU practical pur-
poses, and are now worked under the
name of the Irish North-Western.
Through carriages run from Dun-
I dalk to Berry, thus saving a great
Ireland. Bouie G.-- Castle Blayney — CooiehilL
65
deal of timo between Dublin and
Deny, in comparison vrith the route
to BeL&ist. The rly. cannot be said
to run through a pretty country in
genera], although some portions,
especially near EnniskiUen, are vei^
charming. Quitting the Dundalk
Stat., there is nothing of interest
until Inniskeen Stat. 7 m. is reached.
On L are ruins (of no great extent or
architectural beauties) of the abbey
of Inniskeen : and here we may re-
mark that the Irish tourist must
not expect to find in every abbey
ruin anything more than the re-
mains of a simple parish ch., gene-
rally consisting of a nave and choir,
with probably a belfiy. They were
built in a rude age, as the nucleus
of a monastic establishment which
most frequently had to provide for
their personal defence as well as
religious duties. Inniskeen presents,
however, an additional attraction in
the shape of the stump of a round
tower and a stone cross.
Conveyances. — A daily car to Car'
rickmacross {Inn: Shirley Arms), [a
little town prettily situated on high
rocky ground of the lower limestone
series, which is here surrounded by
upper Silurian rocks, principally gray
or purple slates alternating with quart-
zite, and occasionally with conglo-
merate or fossiliferous limestone. In
the neighbourhood are Lisinisk and
Lough Fea House (E. P. Shirley,
Esq.). The district to the S. of Car-
rickmacross becomes wild and hilly,
rising to a considerable height at
Loughanleagh (1116 ft.), between
Bailiborough and Kingscourt.
Conveyances. — Car to Inniskeen;
car to Bailiborough, through Kings-
court.
Distances. — Inniskeen, 7J m. ; Vir-
ginia, 22; Kingscourt, 7; Bailibo-
rough, 14 ; Ardee, 14.]
From Inniskeen the line is carried
up the little valley of the Fane
through Silurian cuttings, in the
intervals of which the traveller gains
distant views on the N. of the Slievc
Gullion group between Dundalk and
Newry.
12 m. CuUoviUey 2} m. rt. of wluch
is the village of Grossmaglen.
The country becomes more di-
versified and prettier at Castle Blay-
ney {Inn: King's Arms), named
after Sir E. Blayney, governor of
Monaghan in the reign of James I.,
who gave him land on condi-
tion of his erecting a fort between
Newry and Monaghan. It is a
pretty English-looking town on the
borders of the well-planted lake of
Muckna, which is still further em-
bellished by the grounds of Castle
Blayney, the residence of T. H. Hope,
Esq.
Distances. — Armagh, 17i m. ;
Keady, 10.
24J m. BaUyhay, like Castle
Blayney, owes its prosperity to the
linen trade. Beyond being placed
in a very pretty country, it does
not contain much of interest. " The
approach to the town opens upon a
picturesque district. To the E. arc
seen, at the distance of 20 m., the
blue .summits of the lofty Slieve
Gullion, with the town about a
quarter of a mile beneath, apparently
embosomed in hills, and situated on
the margin of a kike 1 m. in dia-
meter."
p^'rom hence a branch line has
been formed to 9 m. CooteJiill, passing
5 m. Rockcorry.
\Cootehill [Hotel : M*Cabe*s), on the
borders of Cavan co., a pleasant well-
built town, on the banks of the river
of the same name, which connects it
by a chain of navigable lakes with
Ballybay. There are some fine
estates near the town : Bellamont
Forest, the former residence of the
Earl of Bellamont, and now possessed
by Mrs. Coote; Durtrey (Lord Cre-
mome), tlio great place of this dis-
trict, with a very fine modern man-
sion situated in an extensive and
finely wooded domain ; and Aslifidd
(Col. Clements). (Pop. 1994.)
Conveyance.— Cay to Monaghan.
56
Boute 6. — Dundalk to Sligo.
Ireland.
Distances. — Ballybay, Dm. ; Bally-
haise.ll ; Stradone, 10.
The road continueB to Ballyhaise,
passing Tullyvin House (J. Brom-
ley, Esq.), and 4i m. Bdkenny^ where
in an old fort a large gold fibula was
found in an iron pot. 11 m. Bally-
haise (Rte. 17).]
34 m. NewUiss, a neat village,
close to which is Newbliss House
(A. Kerr, Esq.).
39 m. Clones (Rte. 17) {Inn : Dacre
Arms), an ancient and not over
clean little town, though it is placed
on a hill high enough to secure all the
advantages of drainage. It has de-
rived its name from Cluain Inis, " the
Island of Retreat," from having been
formerly surrounded by water. It was
also a celebrated ecclesiastical lo-
cality, and the seat of a bishopric,
St. Tigemach, the first bishop, hav-
ing died here of the plague in 550.
The abbey was burnt in 1395, and
again rebuilt and finally dissolved in
Henry VIII.'s time. The tourist
should stop at Clones to visit the
ruins, though they are but smaU.
They are situated at the foot .of the
hill on the S. side of the town, to-
gether with the round tower, which is
peculiarly rough and irregular on the
outside, but of smooth limestone
within. The masonry is rude, and
the top is wanting. At the summit of
the hill is the market-place, adorned
with a handsome ch. and the cross
of Clones, in very fair preservation,
though the sculpture on the shaft is
somewhat indistinct. The arms of
the cross are connected by circular
portions, similar to that at Tynan near
Armagh (Rte. 17). (Pop. 2390.)
Conveyance. — Car to Monaghan.
Distances. — Cavan, 15 m. ; Beltur-
bet, 11J-; Monaghan, 11.
A rly. is here given off to Cavan
en route for Mullingar, as also one
to join the Ulster hue at Monaghan.
44 m. At Newtown Butler^ a
bridge crosses a small tributary to
Lough Erne. This village was the
scene of a very decisive action in
1689. "About 1 m. from Newtown
Butler the Irish feced about and
made a stand. They were driven up
on a hill, at the foot of which lay a
deep bog. A narrow paved cause-
way which ran across the bog was
the only road by which the cavalry
of the Enniskilleners could advance.
Macarthy placed his cannon in such
a way as to sweep this causeway.
Wolseley ordered his in&ntry to the
attack. They struggled through the
bog, made their way to firm ground,
and rushed on to the guns. The
Irish cannoneers stood gallantly to
their pieces tiU they were cut down
to a man. The Irish dragoons, who
had run away in the morning, were
smitten with another panic, and
without striking a blow galloped
from the field." — Macaulay. In this
affray the Irish lost above 2000 men,
while the loss of the Enniskilleners
was only 20.
Portions of the beautiful reaches
of Lough Erne every now and then
become visible, although on no
point from the rly. is the lake
seen to any extent. In the dis-
tance to the S.W. the blue limestone
ranges of Leitrim, in which the
Shannon takes its rise, form very
fine features in the landscape.
[2J m. 1. on the banks of Lough
Erne is Crom Castle, the charming
residence of the Earl of Erne, situated
at the bend of a wooded promontory
overlooking the windings of the
upper lake. It is a castellated
buUding, placed in very picturesque
grounds, which also enclose the
ruins of the old castle of Crom, in
1689 "the frontier garrison of the
Protestants of Fermanagh." It was
besieged by Mountcashel, a circum-
stance that induced the battle of
Newtown Butler, in consequence of
his being obliged to retire from
Crom to meet Wolseley .1
51 m. Lisnaskea Stat. {Hotel : Erne
Arms), a neat town with well-
built schools, ch., market-house, &c.
The town and neighbourhood owe
Ireland.
BoiUe 6. — EnniskUIen.
57
annch to the resident ^landlord, the
Earl of Erne. Near Lisnaskea is
Clifton Lodge (Major Archdall).
54 jn.Maguire's Bridge^ another
townlet situated on the Colebrooke
river, which flows into Lough Erne
near here. 3 m. N. is the village of
Brookeborough, and further N. Cole-
brooke, a fine park and mansion
belonging to Sir Victor Brooke,
Bart. To the 1. of lli^aguire's Bridge
is Lough Erne, studded with island
on the largest of which is Belleisle,
the residence of J. Porter, Esq.
Soon after passing 57^ m. LisbeJr
law, the rly. skirts the demesne of
Castle Coole, and arrives at
62 m. JEnniskiUen (anc, Inis-
ceithlean) {Hotels: Imperial, toler-
able; White Hart), the stat. being
placed at the most disadvantageous
point from whence to see the
town. Enniskillen is one of the
prettiest places in Lreland, a circum-
stance to which, together with its
stirring Protestant associations, it
owes ite principal attractions, for it is
destitute, of any archaeological ob-
jects of interest. From almost every
point it has a peculiarly beautifid
appearance, being entirely watergirt
by Lough Erne, or, to speak cor-
rectly, by the river which unites
the upper and lower lake ; from the
level of which the houses rise sym-
metricaUy, the apex being formed
by the graceful spire of the ch.
It consists of one long [street of
well-built and well-ordered houses,
and is remarkably free from those
abominably dirty cabins which dis-
grace the entrances of Ireland's best
towns. The streets are broad and
clean, the shops good and well filled,
and a general air of prosperity and
"business pervades the whole place.
In the reign of James I. Enniskillen
was merely a stronghold of the
Mt^uires, chieftains of Fermanagh ;
but its great celebrity is subsequent
to that period, when in 1689, not
content with fortifying their town
iigainst the soldiers of Tyrconnel, the
gallant EnniiJdlleners actually pur-
sued their invaders, who made a preci-
pitate retreat, without stopping till
they reached Cavan. The actions
at Belturbet and Newtown Butler
were still more telling and decisive
affidrs in the brief campaign. On a
wooded hill overlooking the town
above the stat is a lofty pillar to
commemorate the heroic deeds of
Sir Lowry Cole of Peninsular fiime.
The view from the hill is very beau-
tiful, though the trees are allowed to
grow too densely around the column.
At either end of the town is a fort,
and there are also extensive barracks
occupying the site of the castle, a
portion of which still exists close
to the W. bridge. From its posi-
tion on the lake, a considerable trade
is carried on by water between En-
niskillen and Belleek at the western
extremity of Lough Erne; and if
an^ communication existed between
this latter place and Ballyshan-
non, it would at once open the way
to a very extensive inland trade.
With the towns on the lower lakes,
as Belturbet, &c., there is at present
little or none, probably owmg to
the very serpentine course of the
river. 1 m. from the town is the
magnificent demesne and mansion
of CasUe Coole, the seat of the
Earl of Belmore. It is a large
Grecian house, built by the elder
Wyatt of Portland stone, and is very
prettily situated. To see the neigh-
bourhood of Enniskillen to advantage
the tourist should discard terra firma
and take to the lake, for which pur-
pose ^ood boats may be had at the
W. bndge. Lough Erne is one of the
largest and most beautiful of Irish
lakes. It boasts little mountain
scenery or craggy shores, but is, save
at one locality, for the most part sylvan
in character, and indeed, for combina-
tions of wood and water is probably
unequalled. The river Erne, which
feeds it, rises in Lough Gowna, about
3 m. N. of Granard (Bte. 17), and runs
due N. until it expands into Lough
D 3
B8
Boute 6. — Dundcdk to Sligo.
Ireland.
Oughter, from whence it emerges
with, broader proportions, passing
Butler's Bridge and Belturbet. At or
near Crmnit is generalljr called Lough
Erne, though in feet it is nothing
more than a very broad river, fringed
with innumerable bays, and studded
with islands, many of them of con-
siderable size. The upper lake is
at its broadest opposite Lisnaskea,
and from this point soon narrows
to assume the river character again.
There are several pretty residences
in this portion of its course, such as
Crum, Belleisle, Belonia, and Lis-
goole Abbej[ (W. C. Jones, Esq.)— an
abbey only in name, as there are no
traces of ch. architecture about it ;
nevertheless the row fix)m Enniskillen
hither will amply repay the lover of
river scenery. The reach from the
town to the lower lake is about 1 m.
in length, and passes on 1. Partora,
a very beautifully situated school,
built in 1777 to accommodate the
scholars of the Royal School, founded
in 1626 by Charles I. The channel
of the river at this point has been
considerably deepened; and at the
extrance into the lake stand on 1.
the ruins of a small fortress consist-
ing of some circular towers. About
2 m. from Enniskillen, on the rt.
of the lake, lies the island of
Devenish (anc. Daim-inish), with
its melancholy-looking ruins,' viz. an
abbey, portions of a 2nd ch., and a
roun^ tower, the most perfect in the
whole country. The lower ruins close
to the tower are very scanty, possess-
ing only one or two round-headed
windows deeply splayed inwardlv.
The round tower is 70 ft. hign,
and remarkable for the extraordinary
jSneness and regularity of the ma-
sonry up to the very apex. Look-
ing N.E. are 3 windows, the lower
one round, the middle triangular,
and the uppermost square-headed.
As usual there is no entrance, but
3 rude steps have been made in the
stones to the lower window, which
is about 12 ft., from the ground.
In addition to being remarkably
well preserved, it has the unusual
decoration of a cornice or band im-
mediately under the conical apex,,
of very rich design, and with a
well-sculptured head in the centre
of each side. A little higher up the
hill are the ruins of the abbey, con-
sisting of the tower and the N. wall
of the choir, in which is a good
pointed doorway deeply moulded and
crocketed. The intersecting archea
are similar to those of Sligo, though
scarcely so lofty. A spiral staircase
leads to a chamber in the tower, and
in the floor are holes for the beUropes^
Beyond Devenish, although this is.
generally the limit for a rowing ex-
cursion, the lake gradually expands as.
far as Church Hill, at which point it
assumes the character of an inland 8ea»
bein^ 5 m. broad ; " stretching from
Enmskillen to Rosscor House, a
distance of 20 m., its greatest breadth
5 m., and its least 2 m. It contains
nearly 28,000 statute acres, and em-
braces 109 islets, many of theni
small and of trifling importance*
others, and not a few, varying from
10 to 150 acres, while Boa Island^
near the northern extremity of the
lake, contains 1300 statute acres."—
Fraser.
Conveyances from Ennislcillen. -^
Daily to Ballyshannon and Bundo-
ran ; daily to Donegal ; daily to Mona-
ghan; daily to Pettigoe; daily to-
Sligo by Manor Hamilton ; daDy to
Omagh.
X>t8<ancc».— Sh'go, 39 m. ; Donegal^
34 ; Belcoo, 11 J ; Manor Hamilton, 25;
Clones, 23; Ballyshannon, 27; Ely
Lodge, 4J; Devenish Island, 2 ; Petti-
goe, 19 ; Kesh, 14 ; Florence Court,.
7 ; Swanlinbar, 12 ; Crum Castle, 22,.
by water ; DeiTy, 60 ; Dundalk, 62.
Excursions, —
1. Devenish Island.
2. Ballyshannon and Belleek.
3. Florence CJourt and Swanlinbar^
4. Belcoo and Marble Arclu
5. Crum Castle.
6. Lisgoole by water.
Ireland.
Soute 6. — The Erne — Ely Lodge,
59
[The tourist who wishes to proceed
at once to Bundoran will take the
Ballyshannon road, which is tra-
versed by 2 or 3 cars daily, and is
ere long destined to possess the
advantages of a rly. It keeps close
to the western shore of Lough Erne
for nearly the whole distance to Bel-
leek, affording views that for soft
beauty are almost equal to the foot
of Windermere.
4 ^m. rt. is the entrance to Ely
Jjodge, the lovely seat of the Mar-
chioness of Ely, upon an island
connected by a bridge with the main-
land. The grounds are exquisite,
and the house contains some gopd
paintings. The ground on the 1. of
the road begins to assume a more
broken and rugged aspect, and near
the village of Church Hill rises
into lofty escarpments of blue moun-
tain limestone some 1000 ft. above
the level of the sea. The ruins of
Tully Castle are close to the lake;
it was a fortified mansion, built by
the Humes, a branch of the Scotch
family of Polwarth, who settled in
Fermanagh in the reign of Elizabeth.
It was the scene of a frightful mas-
sacre in the rebellion of 1641, when
Lady Hume, her family, and all the
inmates of the house, amounting to
60, were slain by Rory, brother of
Lord Maguire, who hixd induced
them to surrender, under promise
of a free pass to Enniskillen. A
similar tower exists at Monea, a few
m. to the S.E. The lake is here
at its broadest ; the depth at many
places is great, and its general level
about 149 ft., which shows at once
the very great descent that the
Erne has to accomplish in the 5 m.
between Belleek and Ballyshannon.
The opposite shore of the lake is
rather low and wooded in comparison
with the crags of Chm-ch HUl. A
road (Rte. 9) runs along its bank to
Pettigoe and Donegal ; it is fringed
with tine residences, some of which
are visible from the Ballyshannon
road — such as Kiversdale (Major
Archdall), Rockfield (Capt. Irvine),
Castle Archdall (Capt. Archdall,
M.P.). On the northern bank a
little beyond Church Hill are Castle
Caldwell (J. C. Bloomfield, Esq.),
and the EUzabethan mansion of
Maghramena (J. Johnstone, Esq.).
The lake soon narrows again, and
reassumes its river character at Bel-
leeh, a small village prettily situated
on the rt., containing a disused fort,
and a large china manufectory, which
gives employment to a good many
hands. A little distance from the
villago is Cliff, the residence of T.
Conolly, Esq., M.P., the owner of
the soil around Ballyshannon, and
probably one of the largest land-
holders in Ireland.]
[From Belleek a road runs S. 4| m.
to the village of Garrison^ situated
in a half-reclaimed wild district on
the eastern shore of Lough Melvin.
It is occasionally frequented by
anglers, who will find a public-house
in which to put up.]
The course of the Erne from
Belleek is marked by an extraor-
dinary series of rapids, which the
tourist may observe at different
points, though he cannot skirt
the banks of the river all the way
down to Ballyshannon. " From Bel-
leek the angler will be enabled to
fish Loch Erne, which contains some
of the finest trout in the world,
running from 2 to 20 lbs. weight.
These trout, up to 6 and 7 lbs. weight,
take the fly well. The lough abounds
also in pike, perch, and bream, ol
which cartloads may be teiken in
some spots. Flies can be had in
Ballyshannon." — Angler* s Register.
Passing 25 m. rt. Camlan, the cas-
tellated mansion of T. Tredennick,
Esq., the tourist arrives at 27 m.
Ballyshannon {Hotels : Cobimi's :
Erne) (Rte. 8).]
[It is a very beautiful excursion
to Swanlinbar 12 m., where the
magnificent limestone scenery is
seen to great advantage. 4 m. 1.
are Skea House (0. Hassard, Esq.),
60
Boute 6. — Dundalk to Sligo.
Ireland.
and Fairwood Park, followed by
the exquisitely-situated grounds
of Florence Court, the residence
of the Earl of Enniakillen. The
house, which is worthy of the
surrounding scenery, was built by
Lord Mount Florence in 1771, and
is in form "a centre connected by
wings of handsome arcades adorned
with an entablature and low ba-
lustrade, the whole ^i^ade being
300 ft. in length." In the interior
are some good paintings by Rem-
brandt, Poussin, Rubens (^Jephtha's
Vow) Sir P. Lely, &c. ; and a geo-
logical museum which has an Eu-
ropean reputation. As regards the
carboniferous formation, and par-
ticularly the fishes of the coal period,
the name of Lord Enniskillen stands
deservedly high in scientific circles.
There is also a splendid skeleton of
the Megaceros Hibemicus, or the
Irish elk. The park extends for a
long distance on the slopes of the
hills, and affords views remarkable
for their extent and variety, as well
as some very fine timber, in which
an avenue of the silver fir should
be particularly noticed, as well
as the parent plant of the Irish or
Florence Court yew. At the rear
of the . house and grounds is a
long continuous escarpment of
mountain limestone hills, which ex-
tend from Swanlinbar, past Manor
Hamilton, to near Lougn GiU, and
are remarkable for the stoinge freaks
of natiu-e which abound in them, as
indeed is the case more or less in all
carboniferous regions. The principal
of these heights are — Benaghlan, just
above Florence Court ; Cratty,
1212 ft. over Swanlinbar ; Cuilcagh,
2188; Benbrack, 1648; andLachagh,
1448. " The Calp limestone of this
district extends fr'om Lough Erne to
Bundoran; and in Belmore near
Enniskillen, and Ben Agblan near
Florence Court, it is surmounted by
600 ft. of upper carboniferous lime-
stone. The calp in tills district is
highly fossiliferous, and full of encri-
nital heads and stems, with large and
perfect productions. In the lime-
stone of Ben Agblan is the rare Pen-
tremitis ovalis; and the Hymeno-
phyllum Tunbridgense fern grows
upon the summit of the hill." —
Oeologist.
12 m. Swanlinbar, a neat town,
which formerly had a considerable
reputation as a Spa, placed in a
valley between the Sheve Russell
chain on the E., the principal height
of which is Legavreagra, 1279 ft,
and the Slieveanieran range on the
W. The little river Claddagh flows
through the town. It rises in a fine
gorge between Cuilcagh and Cratty,
and has a subterranean course of
3 ra., throi^h caverns abounding
in stalactites. The tourist should by
all means ascend Cuilcagh, and thence
make his way westward to a spot
called Legmonshena, or the Source
of the Shannon, 7 m. from Swan-
linbar and 3 from tlie Black Lion
at Belcoo. " The source or spring is
of a circular form, about 50 ft. in
diameter, called the Shannon Pot.
It boils up in the centre, and a con-
tinued stream flows from it about
8 ft. wide and 2 ft deep in the driest
weather, running about 4 m. an hour.
There are numerous cavems and
clifis on the top and sides of Cuilcagh
which receive the rain-water; and
from the circumstance of no stream
descending this side of the mountain,
it is probable that the drainage, com-
bined with subterranean springs, here
find an outlet. After winoing its way
through the valley, it falls into Lough
Allen, about 9 m. S., having in this
short course swelled to a considerable
river from 50 to 60 yds. wide, vary-
ing in depth from 5 to 10 ft'* —
W, 8. The summit of tiie Cuilcagh
is associated with the early history
of the district, " it having been the
spot where the Maguircs invested
their chiefs witii the supreme com-
mand over Fermanagh." — Lewis.
On the northern escarpment, look-
ing over Lough Macnean, is another
Ieeland.
Boute 7. — Enniskillen to Deny,
61
lingular limestone curiosity, known
as file Marble Arch, which is simply
a subterranean cavern, with the roof
fallen in.]
From Enniskillen a coach starts
to Sligo daily, passing through a
richly-wooded and luxuriant country.
The traveller will also notice the
formal manner in which part of the
road is planted with elms and pop-
lars, giving it the appearance of an
approach to a Flemish town. Cross-
ing the Sillees river, is lisbofin
House (T. Irwin, Esq.), beauti-
fully situated imder the towering
limestone hill of Belmore, 1312 ft.,
beneath which the road is carried
for several miles. On the opposite
side are the strongly marked lime-
stone ridges above Florence Court,
while the valley between is filled up
with the lower reach of Lough Mac-
nean, forming altogether most exqui-
site landscapes. At 73 J m. the river,
which connects the 2 lakes, is crossed
to Bdcoo^ a particularly neat-looking
hamlet, from which the tourist may
pay a visit to the Marble Arch, which
is within 3 m. distance. The upper
Liough IMacnean, about 5 m. in
length, and embracing a consider-
able area, now comes in view, and
suflSciently occupies the attention,
although it certainly is not as ro-
mantic a lake as the lower reach.
The northern shore is weU planted
with timber belonging to the estate
of Glenfam (the property of I. A. Tot-
tenham, Esq.)
At the hamlet of Red Lion^ several
roads branch off southward into the
wild and hilly districts of Leitrim.
The geologist or pedestrian will find
plenty to occupy him in this neigh-
bourhood. Legmonshena, the source
•of the Shannon, is about 3 m. distant.
We now foUow the course of the Glen-
&m, a mountain stream that falls
into Lough Macnean, the road becom-
ing rather dreary and iminteresting,
as it passes through a broadish
mountain vaUey, bounded on 1. by the
Lackagh range 1448 ft., and on rt.
by Mullaghatire 1275. Leaving on
I. Lakefield (— Rutherford, Esq.)
and HoU)rmount (S. Armstrong,
Esq.), the tourist reaches
» 87 m. Manor Hamilton {Inn : Ro-
binson's), a small town, situated in a
high valley, surrounded by ranges of
limestone hills on every side. On the
N. is the continuation of that noble
range which is terminated seaward
by Benbulben (Rte. 8), and extends
ail the way to Lough Macnean, or
indeed to Enniskillen. The charming
valley of the Bonet, runs up to Gle-
nade under the heights of Crock-
avalHn 1408 ft.. Saddle Hill 1245,
andDoeylSlL (Rte. 8.) The town
itself need not detain the tourist
long, as he can soon inspect the
ivy-covered block of buildings which
formed the baronial mansion of Sir
Frederick Hamilton. It is a good
example of the 17th cent, although
the details are very plain. The
road now crosses the Bonet, leaving
to the rt the village of Lurganboy,
which, as fer as situation goes, has the
superiority over Manor Hamilton.
Two roads here branch off on rt. : 1. to
Glenade 5 m. ; 2. to Glencar, which, if
time is no object, should be taken by
the tourist, so as to visit the lake
and watei^ll. The road to SHgo
turns to the 1. underneath Benbo,
1365 ft, and continues through the
sEime romantic formation until the
high grounds above Lough Gill are
reached. High as they are, however,
not a single glimpse of this beautiful
lough is obtained from the coach-
road.
101 m. Shgo {Hotels: Imperial;
Victoria) (Rte. 8).
ROUTE 7.
FROM ENNISKILLEN TO DERRY, BY
OMAGH.
The whole of this route is per-
formed by rail, a continuation of
the Dundalk and Enniskillen line.
62
BotUe 7. — Ennishillen to Berry,
Ireland.
wliich has been merged into the
same undertaking, although origin-
aUy made under separate compa-
nies. The greater portion runs
through an uninteresting country,
consisting of high lands, with a
good deal of bl^ik liill and moor.
Tlie latter half is the most pic-
turesque, particularly when we
reach the valley of the Foyle and
its tributaries. Lough Erne, which
is skirted by the line, is barely
visible, high banks intervening.
6 m. BaUinamallard, on the river
of the same name.
8J m. Lowtherstown Road. The
station is 3| m. distant from the
town, which lies to the 1.
10 m. Trillick, a thriving village
seated at the foot of the range of
the Brockcr Mountains, which, com-
mencing at Lisbellaw, near Ennis-
killen, run N.E. at an average
height of 1000 ft., and form a
marked watershed for rivers running
N. to the Foyle and S. to Lough Erne.
17 m. 1. Dromore, which suffered
much at the hands of the insurgents
in 1641. St. Patrick is said to have
founded here a monastery for the
first female who received the veil at
his hands.
20 m., connected by a short branch
line, isFintona, placed on the Fintona
Water, and having a •* manufacture
of linen and spades." The town
dates from the reign of James L
Close by are Ecclesville (C. Eccles,
Esq.) and Derrybard (S. Vesey, Esq.).
[9 m. to the S., on the opposite
side of the Brocker range, is Five-
mile Toton^ also founded temp. James
I. by Sir William Stewart, who built
the castle of Aghentine, of which
slight remains stUl exist. *
9 m. E. of Fintona is Clojher,
the Regia of Ptolemy, and the
seat of tl'.o most ancient bishopric
in Ireland, originally founded by
St. Patrick. It derived its name,
"Clogh-or," from a "stone of gold"
said to have emitted oracular sayings.
It was also the royal residence of
the ancient princes of Ergallia, traces
of which in the shape of earthworks
aro still extant within the grounds
of tlie episcopal palace, a hand-
some mansion, within a park of 500
acres. The first Protestant bishop.
Miles Magragh by name, did not
tidi:e office until the reign of Eliza-
beth ; and amongst succeeding pre-
lates was Bishop Tennison, a great
benefector to the ch., who, together
with Bishop Sterne, nearly rebuilt
the cathedral in the last cent. It
is a plain cruciform building with
a tower rising from the W. front.
The visitor filer having inspected
the ch. should go and see a pretty
cascade at Lumford Glen, a little
way from the town.
Conveyances. — Car to Five-mile
Town and Glasslough (Rte. 17),
through Aughnacloy, a smsdl town
prettily placed on the Blackwater.
Distances. — ^Five-mile Town, 7 ni. ;
Aughnacloy, 9.J; Glasslough, 18;
Fintona, 9.]
From Fintona the rail stiU ascends
through bleak and cold hills to
26 m. Omagh {Hotels: Abercom
Arms; White Hirt), the county-
town of Tyrone, a flourishing place
of some' 3600 Inhab., situated at
the junction of the Drumragh river
with the Camowen, their united
waters falling into the Foyle. The
castle of Omy played an important
part in tlie wars of 1498, when it
was rased to the ground ; and again
in 1641, when Sir PheUm O'Neil
took possession of it. The town
contains little to detain the tour-
ist, save the usual county struc-
tures—a courthouse with a good
Doric front, a gaol, a barrack, and
a church with a lofty spire, which
looks very well from the rly. In the
neighbourhood are Lisanelly (li.
White, Esq.) and Creevenagh (Hon.
A. Stewart).
Conveyances. — Rail to Enniskillenr
Deny, and Dungannon. Car to Mo-
nt^han Road, through BaUygawley.
[An important cross communica-
Ireland. Boute 7. — Donaghmore — Dungannon.
63
r
tion has been lately made by the
Ulster Rly. Compauy, by the exten-
sion of their line to Omagh from
Portadown and Dungannon. It
follows up the course of the Cam-
owen to 7 J m. Beragh, a decayed vil-
lage at the foot of Shantauny, 1035 ft.,
which on its southern face descends
in a bold sweep, overlooking the httle
town of Ballygawleij, Here are some
walls of the castle built by Sir Gerard
Liowther in the 17th cent
1 J m. from the town is Ballygawley
House, the seat of Sir John Stewart
Crossing the Cloghfin river, a
branch of the Camowen, we arrive at
9 m. Six-mile Cross.
13 m. Carrichmore, or Termon
Kock, so called from the elevation
on which it is built Adjoining it
are the ruins of the old ch., a small
E. Dec. building.
The highest portion of the line is
reached at 18 m. Pomeroy, the hills
on each side of which rise to about
900 ft. The demesne of Pomeroy
House (R. Lowry, Esq.) was formerly
celebrated for its timber, some of the
oaks having measured 29 ft. in cir-
cumference.
24 m. Donaghmore. Of the im-
portant monastic buildings that
once existed here, all that remains
is a beautiful inscribed cross about
16 ft. high, which, having been
mutilated and thrown down in
1641, was subsequently ro-erected.
The Rev. George Walker of Derry
celebrity was vicar of this parish.
At Castle Caulfield, rt. 2 m., there
is a ruined mansion of the Charle-
monts, most picturesquely situated
on a limestone rock. It is a fine ex-
ample of domestic architecture of the
time of James I., who granted this
property to Sir John CaiSfield, after-
wards Ijord Charlemont. It was
quaintly described by Pynnar in his
Survey as the fairest house he had
seen. Parkanaur is the seat of
J. Y. Burgess, Esq.
Crossing the Torrent river, wo ar-
rive at
27 m. Dungannon {Hotels: Ran-
furly Arms; Imperial), celebrated
in early days for having been the
chief residence of the O'Neils,
who, being in constant rebellion
against the English government,
involved the town in a never-ending
series of assault and siege which
lasted until the close of the 17th
cent. The independence of the Irish
parliament was declared here in 1782
by the delegates from the corps of
the Ulster Volunteers. An abbey was
founded by the O'Neils, and castles
wero built at different times by
themand their successors theChiches-
ters, but all traces of them have dis-
appeared, and Dungannon now pre-
sents the features of a busy manufoc-
turing town, for which its position —
about 3 m. from Lough Neagh, and
in the centre of the Tyrone coal-
basin — well qualifies it. The princi-
pal buildings are the ch., which has-
an octagonal spire, and a grammar-
school and college founded by
Charles I., and the object of special
care from Primate Robinson, who
erected the present buildings on
lands given by him. On Knock-
many Hill, which lies to the S.W.,
is a circle, with singular tracings on
some of the stones. (Pop. 4000.)
The coal-field of Tyrone is interest-
ing to the geologist irom the various
and speedy succession of rocks occur-
ring in so limited a space, and its com-
mercial importance in the industiial
economy of Ireland. The coal-seams
rest on the limestone of Dungannon,
and many of the hills and high
grounds are covered over with triassic
or new red sandstone beds for a con-
siderable distance. The basin is
divided into two portions : — 1. The
Coal Island district to the N.E. of
Dungannon, which is about 6 m. in
length by 2 in breadth, and contains
7000 acres. Within a depth of 120
fathoms, 6 beds of good workable
coal are found, of the aggregate
thickness of 22 to 32 ft. — a remark*
able instance of so many seams being
64
Bouie 7. — Enniskillen to Ben'y,
Irelai^d.
found close together at so short a
depth (See Introd.) 2. The Anna-
hone district is only 1 m. long, em-
bracing 320 acres, and affording 8 or
9 workable seams. ** Notwithstand-
ing the smallness of the basin, its
strata are so much contorted and
disturbed as to cause great irreg^u-
larity in the workings by change of
level and the occasional disappear-
ance of the bed. But, with all these
drawbacks, this basin merits par-
ticular attention. The coal is ex-
cellent, burning rapidly with flame,
and evolving great heat; it is not
difficult to raise, and its quantity is
such as to be capable of diffusmg
the blessings of industrial prosperity
over an extensive area." — Kane,
The principal collieries are at Anna-
hone, Coal Island, and Drumglass.
In the neighbourhood of Dungan-
non are Springfield (J. Irwin, Esq.)
xind Nortiiland House, the seat of
Lord Ranfiirley.
Conveyances. — Rail to Omagh and
Portadown ; car to Cookstown.
Distances, — Moy, 5 J m. ; Black-
watertown, 8 ; Coal Island, 4| ;
Stewartstown, 7 ; Cookstown, 11 ;
Armagh, 1^.
Passing 31 m. Trew Stat., the line
crosses the Blackwater, a consider-
able stream, which receives at Moy
.the waters of the Ulster canal con-
necting Lough Erne near Belturbet
with Lough Nea^h.
[3 m. on rt. is Moy^ a small
.town on the Blackwater, built by
Lord Charlemont on the pattern
of Marengo in Italy ; on the opposite
bank of the river is Charlemont —
both of them places of importance
in the days of Elizabeth. The
latter was disgraced in 1641 by the
treacherous murder of Lord Caul-
field, the governor of Charlemont,
.by Sir Phehm O'Neil, who had been
hospitably invited to supper. The
castie, now a depot of the Ord-
nance department, " is still of great
strength, fortified with bastions, a
dry ditch, a scarp, and counterscarp j
and there are 2 ravelins, one in
front, the other in rear of the works,
surrounded by a glacis which runs
along the side of the Blackwater."
In the neighbourhood are Eox-
borough, the seat of Lord Charle-
mont, and Church Hill (Sir W.
Vemer, Bart.).
2^ m. to the S., between the river
and the Ulster Canal, is Bla/ikwater-
Unon, a large village doing a good
deal of business in the way of coals
and timber. Like Charlemont, it
played an important part in the
Tyrone rebellion temp. Queen Eliza-
beth. 5 m. Armagh (Rte. 17.) A
little higher up the river is the
Castle of Benburb, on a lofty escarp-
ment above the water, which sur-
rounds it on two sides. Here O'Neill
defeated the English army after a
desperate battle in 1646. It does
not present any interesting archi-
tectural features.]
35 m. Anaghmoret from whence the
line runs in view of the S. end of
Lough Neagh to 41 m. Porteulown
(Rte. 3).]
28 m. at Fairy Water Bridge the
main line crosses the Fairy Water
close to its junction with the Strule,
and keeps parallel with the latter
river, occasionally crossing it, to
35 m. Nevjtovm Stewart {Hotel:
Abercom Arms). Here the Shrule
river joins the Owenkillew, which
rises in the lofty chain of the Munter-
lony Mountains, and fiows from E. to
W. These hills, with the still higher
ranges of the Sperrin Mountains, run
E. as far as Mi^hera, and then turn
round to the N. into the neighbourhood
of Coleraine. Their southern &ce8
are extremely steep, and the general
altitude is not less than 2000 ft.-^
the highest point, Sawel, being 2246.
The town of Newtown Stewart is
finely situated on the side of a hill
known by the pretty name of Bessy
Bell (1386 ft."), tlie counterpart of
which (thougn not so lofty) is the
eminence of Mary Gray, on tbe rt.of
the rly. The town is pleasant and
Ireland. Boute 7. — Sirabane — Londonderry.
65
pretty, and is rendered attractive by
the close proximity of Baron's Court,
the princely estate of the Marquis of
Ahercom, in which hill, wood, and
water afford many beautiful land-
scapes. James II. spent a night in
Newtown Stewart, and in return for
the hospiiality received ordered the
castle to be dismantled and the town
to be burnt— a blow which it was
long in recovering. Like most north-
em Irish towns, linen-weaving af-
fords plenty of employment There
are remains of some forts which
commanded the bridges on the
Moume and Strule at Moyle.
6 m. E. are the village of Gortin,
and Beltrim Castle (Major Hamil-
ton\ romantically placed in the
valley of the Owenkillew, between
the hills of SUevemore (1262 ft.) and
-Curragbchosaly (1372).
10 m. 1. on the Derg is Castle Derg,
tlirough which the traveller can
make a short cut to Stranorlar and
Donegal (Rte. 8).
Conveyances. — Rail to Enniskillen
und Deny.
Distances. — Straban'e, 11 m. ;
Omagh, 9 ; Castle Derg, 10.
38 J m. the Derg flows into the
Moume, and on rt. the Sperrin Moun-
tains are very conspicuous features
in the landscape. The latter river is
crossed at 40 m. Victoria Bridge Stat.
41J m. Sion Mills; soon after
which the tourist arrives in sight of,
46 m., the busy and not over-clean
i»wn of Strabane {Hotel : Abercom
Arms) (Rte. 8), situated, like New-
town Stewart, at the jimction of
"2 rivers — the Moume and the Finn.
Each of them is crossed by re-
markably long bridges, and from
this point the Moume takes the
name of the Foyle. The course of
these rivers is marked by a con-
siderable expanse of alluvial land,
which in wet weathier is generally
flooded^a state of things to which
the Finn in particular is very liable.
Strabane contains very Uttle to de-
tain the visitor, who will speedily
find out from his olfactory senses
that the inhabitants are principally
dependent on flax. This is, however,
only offensive in the autumn, when
the plant is being steeped and dried
in all the fields of the neighbourhood.
Strabane once possessed a castle
built by the Marquis of Abercom in
the time of James I., but it has dis-
appeared, and has given place to a
warehouse. The town has some
claims to be called a port, as it is
connected by a short canal with the
navigable portion of the Foyle (Pop.
4911).
Conveyances. — Rail to Derry and
Enniskillen ; rail to Stranorlar ; car
to Shgo daily ; car to Letterkeuny ;
car to Ballybofey, through Castle-
finn.
Distances.— DeiTy, 15 m. ; Lifford,
1 ; Newtown Stewart, 11 ; Castle Finn,
6 ; Umey, 3 ; Raphoe, 7 ; Letter-
kenny, 16J ; Rathmelton, 23 ; Manor
Cunningham, 12 ; Stranorlar, 13.
The line now pursues the even
tenor of its way along the alluvial
valley of the Foyle, which soon
swells out into a stately stream.
48 m. Porthall (J. Clarke, Esq.).
Before arriving at 53 m. St. Johns-
town Stat., we pass on 1. a square
tower, all that is left of the Castle
of Montgevlin, in which James II.
held his court till the termination
of the siege of Derry.
57 m. Carrigans. The Foyle here
loses the character of a river, and
becomes an estuary, increasing in
width until we arrive at
61 m. the time-honoured city of
Derry or Londonderry (Rte. 12)
{Hotels : Impenal, good ; Foyle).
Its situation is picturesque in the
extreme, the great bulk of the town
being on a hill, 119 ft. high, overlook-
ing the 1. bank of the Foyle, which is
here 1068 ft. wide, and is crossed
by a long rly. bridge. It expands
at the Rosses, a little below the
town, to a width of IJ m. The
geology of the hills on either side of
66
Boute 7. — Enniskillen to Deiry.
Ireland^
the river consists " of primary schis-
tose rocks, spreading over the whole
of the parish of Templemore (in
which the city is situated), with the
exception of a considerable detritic
patch at Culmore, to the N.E., which
probably conceals a part of the
new red sandstone. Associated with
these are occasional beds of granu-
lar (limestone and greenstone." —
Geot. Survey, I^evious to the
reign of Ehzabetii the history of
Deny (in Irish boitie , the place of
oaks) presents nothing remarkable,
and is chiefly occupied with affairs ec-
clesiastical, it having been one of tiie
monasteries of St. Oolumb, the abbot
of which, Flahertach O'Brolchain,
was made first bishop of Derry in
1158. The last Roman Catholic
bishop died in 1601, up to which
time the city " may be regarded as
being in the hands of the native
Irish, and governed by their chiefs,
with at best but an occasional ac-
knowledgment of British power."
But aU previous historical events are
tlirown into the shade by the great
siege of Londonderry in 1689, when
King James's Irish army, under Koscn
and Edward Hamilton, laid close siege
to the city for 105 days, and tried
their best, by the horrors of assault,
fiimine, and pestilence, to reduce the
com^e of the brave Protestant de-
fenders. Tlie governor on this occa-
sion was the treacherous Luudy,
who made many attempts to give up
the city into the enemy's hands, and
only succeeded in evading the rage
of the garrison by escaping in the
guise of a porter. The command
was then taken by the Rev. George
Walker, rector of Donaghmore,
whose apostolic fervour and simple
bravery will be the theme of admi-
ration as long as religious liberty
endures. The blockade was at
length put an end to on the 2Gth of
July, when the Mounfjotjt a mer-
chantman of Kirke's fleet, filled with
stores, gallantly broke through the
barrier placed across tlie Foyle, and
relieved the starving garrison. " Five
generations have passed away, and.
still the wall of Londonderry is to-
the Protestants of Ulster what the
trophy of Marathon was to the Athe-
nians. A lofty pillar, rising from a
bastion which bore during many
weeks the heaviest fire of the enemy»
is seen £[ir up and down the Foyle.
On the summit is the statue of
Walker, such as when, in the last
and most tender emergency, his
eloquence roused the faintmg courage
of liis brethren. In one hand h©
grasps a Bible ; the other, pointing-
down the river, seems to direct the
eyes of his fiimished audience to the
English topmasts in the distant bay.
Such a monument was well de*
served ; yet it was scarcely needed ;
for, in truth, the whole city is to
this day a monument of the great
deliverance. The wall is carefully
E reserved, nor would any plea of
ealth or convenience be held by the
inhabitants sufficient to justify the
demolition of that sacrea enclosure
which, in the evU time, gave shelter
to their race and their religion. The
summit of the ramparts forms a
pleasant walk. The bastions have
been turned into little gardens.
Here and there among the shrubs
and flowers may be seen the old
culverins which scattered bricks
cased vfith lead among the Irish
ranks. One antique gun, the gift of
the Fishmongers of London, was
distinguished during the 105 me-
morable days by the loudness of its
report, and still bears the name of
* Roaring Meg.' The cathedral is
filled with relics and trophies. In
the vestibule is a huge shell, one
of many hundreds of shells which
were thrown into the city. Over
the altar are still seen the French
flagstavcs taken by the garrison in a
desperate saUy; the white ensigns
of the house of Bourbon have long
been dust, but their place has been
supplied by new banners, the work
of the fairest hantls of Ubter. The
Ireland. BotUe 7. — Londonderry — Bridge,
anniversary of the day on which the
gates were closed, and the anni-
versary of the day on which the
siege was raised, have been down to
our own time celebrated by salutes,
processions, banquets, and sermons.
Lundy has been executed in effigy,
and the sword said by tradition to
be that of Monmouth has on great
occasions been carried in triumph/'
— Macaulay's Hist, of England,
The principal objects of interest
in Londonderry are the walls and
the cathedral. The original English
town, erected by Sir Henry Docwra,
was burned by Sir Cahir O'Doherty
in 1608, and the present town may
therefore be considered to have de-
rived its origin from the Londoners'
plantation, which was tlie immediate
result of that catastrophe. The pre-
sent walls were built about 1609, at
a cost of 8357Z., and were known
during the siege as the Double Bas-
tion, on which the gallows were
erected for the threatened purpose of
hanging the , prisoners ; the Royal
Bastion, " from the advancing of the
red flags upon it, in defiance of the
enemie;" Hangman's Bastion ; Gun-
ners' Bastion; Cowards' Bastion, —
" it lyeing most out of danger, it's
said it never wanted company good
store ;" Water Bastion ; and Ferry
Bastion. Some of these are still in
existence (though others, together
with the external dry ditch, have
been removed in process of time),
and contain many of the guns, given
by various Companies. The gates
are 6 : Bishop's Gate, erected to the
memory of William HI. ; Shipquay
Gate; Butchers' Gate; Ferryquay
Grate ; New Gate ; and Castle Gate.
The cathedral stands on a lofty
eminence overlooking the whole of
the town, and is a beautiful Perp.
building. It has been only lately re-
stored. It consists of a central and
2 side aisles, separated on either
side by 6 pointed arches with octa-
gonal piers, and lighted by Perp.
windows. The erection of the ch.
G7
in 1633 is commemorated in a tablet
which runs as follows ; —
ANO DO CAR REGIS
1633.
If . stones . cvld . speake .
Then . London's . prayse . shovid . sovnde .
■\Vho . bvllte . this . cbvTch .•
And . cittie . from . the . grovnde .
Inserted into the top of this tablet is
a smaller one with the inscription : —
" In temple verus Dens est
Vereque demens."
Amongst other curiosities are a
bomb-shell fired into the town during
the siege, as well as the poles of the
flags captured Irom flie enemy.
There are also a couple of 17th
cent, tablets and monuments to the
memory of Bishop Knox, and of
Capt. Boyd of the AJax, who perished
in the storm at Kingstown in 1860,
while attempting to rescue others.
The visitor shoidd on no account
forget to mount the top of the tower,
which commands a noble panorama,
embracing the city with the walls,.
Walker's ^lontunent, the Bishop's
Palace and Garden, the Gaol, the
Lunatic Asylum, the Docks, the
noble expanse of the Foyle, backed
up by the distant outlines of the
hills of Inishowen, while, looking up
the river, are the woods and grounds
of Prehen, the seat of the femily of
Knox. The other buildings wortli
notice are the Corporation Hall, in
the middle of the Diamond or prin-
cipal square ; the Court House, the
Ionic facade of which is modelled
after the temple of Ei*echtheus at
Athens; the Gaol, which is most
complete, and designed on the cir-
cular plan, with a panoptic gallery ;
and the new Bridge, which serves
both for the Northern Counties
Rly. and a public road. It has
superseded the old timber bridge,
which was in its day a great curi-
osity. "Its length was 1068 ft.,,
and its breadth 40 ; being laid
on oak-piles, the pieces of which
were 16 ft. asunder, and were bound
together by 13 strong pieces equally
68
Boute 7. — Enniskillen to Berry.
Ireland.
divided and transversely bolted.
As both the water and the gas
were brought across the bridge,
they had to be separated when-
ever it was open for the ipassage of
barges." The whole of this singu-
lar structure was put up by Lemuel
Cox, a Boston American, at an ex-
pense of 16,000/. CPop. 20,875.)
From the port of Londonderry
a large colonial and coasting trade
is carried on. It is, moreover,
a calling-station for the North Ame-
rican steamers from Liverpool, all
the important telegrams being for-
warded from Deny direct to Lon-
don. The tonnage of the port in-
creased in the four years from 1848
to 1852 from 147,212 to 215,409;
and if the long-entertained project
is ever brought to bear of uniting
Lough Foyle with Lough Swilly
by a ship canal it will tend very
much to place Derry in the fore-
most rank of Irish ports.
No antiquary should leave Derry
without paying a visit to the Grianan
of Aileach, an early remain situated
on the summit of a hill 800 ft. high,
about 5 m. from Derry, in the
county of Donegal, and overlooking
Lough Swilly. It consists of 3 ex-
tensive concentric ramparts formed
of 'earth mixed with uncemented
stones, and enclosing in the centre a
cashel. This is a circular wall, en-
closing an area of 77 ft. in diameter,
not quite perpendicular, but having
a curved slope, like Staigue Fort in
Kerry. On each side of the entrance
gateway are galleries within the
thickness of the wall, extending in
length to one-half of its entire cir-
cuit, though not communicating with
the gateway, but having entrances
from the area at their northern and
southern extremities. In the centre
of the area of the cashel are remains
of a small oblong building— probably
of a chapel — supposed to be of more
recent erection than the other por-
tion of the remains. Although, from
the^ etymology of the word, some
writers have considered the Grianan
of Aileach to liave been a Temple of
the Sun, it is more probable " that it
was the palace of the northern Irish
kings from the earliest age of his-
toric tradition down to the com-
mencement of the 12th cenly." There
is a fine view from the Grianan, of
Loughs Foyle and Swilly, backed up
by the Donegal mountains.
The other antiquity is St. Co-
lumb's stone, on the Greencastle-
road, 1 m. from the town. This is a
mass of gneiss, exhibiting the rude
impress of 2 feet, and was one of the
inaliguration stones of the ancient
chieS of this district.
Conveyances, — Rail to Enniskillen
and Bel&st ; rail to Buncrana ; car
daily to Dungiven ; daily to Letter-
kenny; daily to Malin; daily to
Moville; to Bathmelton 4 days a
week.
Distances, — Letterkenny, 20 m. ;
Grianan, 5 ; Moville, 19 ; Buncrana,
13} ; Bathmelton, 14^; Manor Cun-
ningham, 14 ; Culmore, 5 ; Portrush,
26 ; Coleraine, 33 ; Strabane, 15.
Excursions, —
1. Grianan Aileach.
2. Moville.
8. Buncrana.
4. Down Hill.
5. Dungiven (Rte. 12).
[Derry is the starting-point for an
excursion through the peninsula of
Inishowen, famous for its poteen,
and in more early and uncivilised
times as being the stronghold of the
descendants of Kinel Owen, a son
of Nial of the' Nine Hostages, who
waged a constant and fierce war
with the O'Dohertys, descendants
of Connell Gulban. These latter,
however, about the 15th cent., dispos-
sessed the older residents. The
tomist can proceed either by rail to
Fahan and Buncrana, or by road,
which, for the first mile or so, runs
along the side of the Foyle, but turns
off to the 1. at Belmont (T. Macky,
Esq.), in the grounds of which is the
stone of St. Columb. It then passes
Ireland. Boute l.-^Buncrana — Carndonagh,
69
in sight of Grianan Aileach Mountain,
keeping it on 1., and strikes upon
Lough Swilly at Glen CoUan (T.
Norman, Esq.), opposite the island
of Inch.
13 J m. Buncrana {Hotel: Com-
mercial) is a pleasant and pretty
little bathing-place, situated on the
shores of Lough Swilly, between
the embouchures of 2 rivers, the
Mill and Crana, and at the base of
the Meenkeeragh Hill, which rises
on the E., and the Mouldy Moun-
tain 1021 ft. on the S. It possesses
some little trade arising from flax-
spinning and the manufacture of
chemical products, such as iodine,
&c., and is also the head-quarters of
tlie artillery for the district, em-
bracing Loughs Foyle and Swilly.
An old castle of the O'Dohertys is
now incorporated with a modem
building, and with its approaches
and gardens is a picturesque object.
Distances, — Carndonagh, 12 m. ;
Rathmelton by water, 4J ; Derry,
13*.
Conveyances.— By rail to Derry.
It is a pretty minor excursion to
the Fort and Head of Dunree 7 m.,
the road thitlier running at the base
of Aghaweel Hill 1106 ft., and pass-
ing Linsfort and the ruin of Boss
Castle.
Dunree Head is the termination
of the Urris Hills, a group occupying
the N.-westem district of the Inish-
owen peninsula, and forming a por-
tion of the great central chain of
SUere Snaght. The road termi-
nates here, but the pedestrian can
make a scramble of it to Dunass
Head, the eastern guardian of the
entrance to Lough Swilly. It
is worthy of observation that the
Urris Hills were evidently a con-
tinuation of the Glenalla Moun-
tains on the opposite coast prior to
the irruption of the sea which now
forms Lough Swilly.
The scenery of the coast is wild
and rockv, and the hills rise with
considerable abruptness from the
shore. The road from Buncrana to
Carndonagh follows up the valley of
the Owen Crana for some distance,
giving off at Carroghill Bridge a
branch road to the villages of Da-
nally and Ballyliffin on the N.
coast. It then passes a tarn known
as Mintia^h's Lough, and strikes
into the heart of the mountains
between Slieve Snaght ("Hill of
Snow *'\ 2019 ft., on the rt.,and the
Urris Hills on the 1.
^ 25^ m. Carndonagh, is a neat
little town, which principally sup-
phes the commissariat of the Inish*
owen district. There is, however, but
little to see, save across opposite the
ch.-yard. From hence it is 19 m.
by the direct rood to Londonderry,,
and 3 m. to the village of Malin,
which is situated at the head of
the estuary of Trawbreaga Bay, an
extensive sandy pill, that joins
Lough Swilly, past the dreary dunes
of Dough Isle. At its embouchure
are Glashedy Island and the 15
Hocks, together with Carrickabraby
Castle, another of the O'Dohertys'
ruined fortalices. Adjoining Malin
is Malin Hall (J. Hawby, Esq.},.
said to be the most northerly rcbi-
dence in Ireland.
8.^ m. N.E. of the village is Malin
Head, one of the famous northeily
promontories that are so conspicu-
ous to passengers by the Montreal
steamers. It is of no great height^
but the coast is exceedingly fine,
and a scramble along the cliffs
from the Five Fingers to the Head
will amply repay toe lover of stem
rock scenery. On the head is a
lighthouse and coastguard station,,
and a little way off shore is the
group of the Garvan Hills. Another
light is exhibited on the island of
Inishtrahull, some 6 m. to the N.E.,
a precaution very necessary along
this stormy coast. Between Malin
and Glengard Heads the cliffs are
very magnificent, being upwards of
800 ft. in height, and resembling
those of Moher in Co. Clare, though
70
Bovie 8. — Sligo to Strabane,
Ireland.
not presenting the same sli6er wall
of precipice. From the village of
Malin a road of 4 m. runs to Ouldaff,
where the river of the same name
runs into the sea. Culdaff House is
the seat of G. Young, Esq.
From hence it is 9 J m. to Moville
{ffotd: Commercial), a watering-
place which the citizens of Deny
love to frequent in the summer. A
pretty place it is, for, in addition to
the sheltering ridges of the Squire's
Cairn and Craignamaddy at the hack,
it commands the fine outlines of
Benyevenagh and Keady, beyond
Newtown Limavaddy, and is more-
over enlivened by tho constant
stream of shipping entering and
leaving the port. It is a favourite
excursion to Inishowen Head 6 m.,
passmg about half way the old fortress
of the ODohertys at Greencastle,
together with the modem fort that
commands the entry of the Lough
and M*Gilligan Point.
Conveyances. — A steamer plies
from Derry 'during the summer
months. Car to Derry daily.
Distances. — Derry, 18 m. ; Culdaff,
0 J ; Inishowen, 6 ; Greencastle, 3.
The road from Moville to Derry
keeps nearly the whole distance
close to the shores of the Lough,
passing 8 m. the village of Carrow-
keel, where the Cabry river is crossed,
and a road to Camdonagh given off.
At this point the estuary of the
Foyle is at its broadest.
13 m., adjoining the village of
Muff, is Kilderry, the seat of G.
Hart, Esq. Here the Buncrana road
runs in, passing, between Muff and
Bunfort, Miltown House, and skirt-
ing the base of the picturesque Scalp
Mountain, 1589 ft. Soon after leav-
ing Muff the traveller sights the
Fort of Culmore, and guesses, from
the number of pretty villas that
border the road and shore, that he is
approaching Den-yJ
ROUTE 8.
FROM SLIGO TO STRABANE, THROUGH
BALLYSHANNON AND DONEGAL.
Sh'go {B.ie. 6) (Hotels: Imperial
and Victoria, the latter the best) is
an important seaport town of some
10,700 Inhab., in close neighbour-
hood to scenery such as tails to
the lot of very few business towns.
The tourist in search of the pictu-
resque cannot do better than take
up his quarters here for a time. It
is remarkably well situated in the
centre of a richly-wooded plain,
encircled on all sides, save that of
the sea, by lofty mountains, the
ascent of which commences from 3
to 4 m. of the town, while on one
side of it is a lake almost equal in
beauty to any in Ireland, and on the
other a«wide and sheltered bay. The
connexion between the two is main-
tained by the broad river Garogue,
issuingfrom Lough Gill, and emptying
itself, after a course of nearly 3 m.,
into Sligo Bay. It is crossed by 2
bridges joining tlie parish of St.
John (in which is the greater portion
of the town) with that of Calry on the
N. bank. The Port, in which a good
deal of business is carried on, was
considerably improved by the forma-
tion of^the Ballast Bank Quay,
2250 ft. long, where vessels drawing
13 ft. water can moor, while those
of larger draught can anchor safely
in the pool. The approaches to the
port are admirably lignted by 2 fixed
lights on a small rock called Oyster
Island, on which is also a beacon
known as the Metal "Man, and a
3rd placed further out on the Black
Rock. The town itself, although con-
taining several important buildings,
cannot be admired for its general
arrangement, or for the cleanliness
of its streets, though it must be al-
lowed that they are better kept than
in many larger cities. The antiquities
Ireland.
Bovie 8. — Sligo — KnocJcnarea,
71
tire few, notwithstanding the im-
portance that Sligo (anc. Sligeach)
attained as early as 1242 by the
residence of Maurice Fitzgerald, Earl
of Kildare, who founded a castle
and abbey. Both were subsequently
destroyed, first by O'Donell in 1270,
and again by Mac William Burgh,
after being rebuilt by the Earl of
Ulster ; of the former there are no
traces. Sligo was also the scene of
a siege in 1641, when it was taken and
garrisoned for a time by the Parlia-
mentary army under Sir Charles
Coote.
The ruins of the Abbey are just
Itehind the Imperial Hotel. The ch.,
which Fitzgerald first founded, was
destroyed by fire in 1414, and " for its
restoration Pope John XXII. granted
indulgences to all who should visit
it and contribute towards the expense
of rebuilding it." — Lewis, It consists
of a nave and choir with central
tower of 2 stages, supported. at the
intersection by lofty pointed arches.
The choir is lighted on the S. by 5
delicate early pointed windows, and
at the E. by an exquisitely traceried
4-light window. It contains an
altar with 9 compartments of good
carving; also a mural monument
(1623) to one of the O'Connors, on
which he is represented with his
wife kneeling. On N. of the choir a
low pointed arch leads to a nide
room connected with the graveyard.
Notice the groined roof underneath
the tower, and the small arches which
are formed between the spring and
the apex of the intersecting ones.
In the nave only 3 arches of the S.
wall are standing, with octangular
piers. There is another altai'-tomb
nere, of beautiful design, 1616. On
the N. of the nave are the cloisters
very perfect on 3 sides, in each of
which are 18 beautifully-worked
arches about 4 fL in height The
visitor sliould study the pillars, which
vary much in design, one of them
having a head cut on the inside of
the arch. These cloisters, as in most
of the Irish examples, differ from the
cloisters of our English cathedmls
in their small dimensions, and in
the fact that the interior passage is
filled with gravestones, suggesting
that they were intended more for
burial purposes than for a promenade
or ambulacrum.
The Ch. of St, John is a cruciform
Perp. ch., with a massive tower at
the W. end. The parapet carried all
round it gives a singular effect.
The only oSier building in the town
worth notice is the Lunatic Asylum.
Conveyances, — Ely. to Boyle, Car-
rick, Longford, and Mullingar. Car
daily to Westport through BaUina
and Castlebar; daily to Ballyslian-
non, Donegal, and Strabane ; daily to
Manor Hamilton and Enniskillen;
daily to Tobercurrj'.
Distances. — Boyle, 23^ m. ; Car-
rick, 33 ; Ballinafad, 19J ; Longford,
54i ; Ballysadare, 5 ; Markree, 8 J ;
Collooney, 6^ ; BaUina, 37 ; Dromore,
21 ; Lough Gill, by water, 2 J ; Dro-
mahaire, 11; Hazelwood, 3; Manor
Hamilton, 14 ; Enniskillen, 39 ; Glen,
4 J ; Ballyshannon, 25J^ ; Drumclifl^,
5; Knocknarea, 5; Banbulben, 8;
CUffbney, 14.
Excursions. —
1. To the hill and glen of Knock-
narea.
2. Lough Gill.
3. Ballysadare and ^Tarkree (Rte.
18).
4. Benbulben.
5. Glencar.
ri. To Knocknarea, 5 m., a sin-
gular truncated hill of carboniferous
■limestone which occupies the greater
portion of the promontory l^etween
Sligo Bay and Ballysadare Bay, and
which, from its extraordinary form
and abrupt escarpments, is a great
feature in all Sligo and Donegal
views. A road runs round the whole
of the ba«e of it, making tlie chcuit
about 11 m., passing on the N. side
Cummeen House, the seat of the
Ormsby family. Winding round
Knocknarea, the toiuist overlooks
72
Moute 8. — Sligo to Strahane.
Ireland.
Culleenamore (J. Barrett, Esq.), and
soon arrives at the
Glen of Knochnarea. This is an ex-
ample of disrupted sti-ata so common
in limestone districts, and is as ro-
mantic as can well be conceired. It
consists of a deep chasm, f m. long
and 30 ft. broad, bounded on each
side by vertical cliffs about 40 ft. in
height, and overgrown and over-
shadowed in every direction with
trees and trailing underwood. A
walk runs through the defile, at the
entrance of which is a charming little
cottage om6e, embedded in flowers,
and commanding a splendid prospect
over Ballysadaro Bay. Regaining
the road, the tourist can easily
ascend Knocknarea, although it is
steep and sometimes slippery. The
smnmit, on which is an enormous
cairn visible far and wide, com-
mands a magnificent panoramic view,
embracing on the N. the Donegal
Mountains with the scarred pre-
cipices of Slieve League and the pro-
montory of Malin H^. Further E.
the visitor traces the gap of Barnes-
more beyond Donegal. Eastwards
are the limestone ranges of Benbulben,
Truskmore, and the Manor Hamilton
hills, with the wooded banks of
Lough Gill and the Slish Mountains
nearer home. S. are the Curlew
Mountains, and more westward the
numerous ranges which intervene be-
tween Sligo and Ballina, overtopped
in clear weather by the conical heights
of Nephin and Croagh Patrick at West-
port. Due W. the eye triices a long
line of coast of Erris as far as the
Stags of Broadhaven ; while just un-
derneath one's feet is a perfect map of
Sligo, with the bay, islands, and light-
houses, and the long sandy peninsula
of Elsinore. On the southern side
is Ballysadare, with its numerous
estuaries : on the furthest shore the
woods of Carrowmore (the residence
of Richard Olpherts, Esq ) ; on the
northern bank of the estuary is Sea-
field (W. Phibbs, Esq.). Knocknarea
forms the nortlicm escarpment of
that large tract of lower limestone
that extends from Galway tlirough
Mayo and Sligo, and the geologist
will find in its shales many charac-
teristic fossils, and especially corals.
He may return to Sligo by a more
southerly road, passing 1. Rathcarrick
(Mrs. Walker), and rt. Cloverhill
(W. Chalmers, Esq.) The antiquary
may visit the ch. of Killuspugbrone,
built by St. Patrick for Bishop
Brotius in the 5th cent. It has a
semicircular-headed doorway, placed
in the S. wall, and not in the W.,
according to the usual custom.]
[2. The visitor wiU of course make
an excursion to Lough Gill, which
is considered by many, though on a
small scale, to be almost equal to
Killamey. A little steamer plies
every 2nd day to the head of the
lake, returning on the next. Tliis
is the best way of seeing it; but
if the steamer does not suit, a
row-boat may be engaged above
the bridge. The 2^ m. of the river
that intervenes between the town
and the lake is lined by a suc-
cession of lawns and beautiful woods.
Close to the town on the N. bank
is the Glebe House, succeeded by tho
noble demesne of Uazelvoood (Right
Hon. John Wynne, M.P.}, one of
the finest and most channing estates
in Ireland. The domain, which is
remarkable for the richness and
variety of its wood, extends for seve-
ral miles on both sides of the river and
lake, and includes, besides Hazelwood
proper, the estates of 'Percy Mount,,
the former residence of Sir Richard
Gethin, and HoUywell (formerly Hon.
Rev. J. Butler) on the northern
shore. The mansion of Hazelwood
is situated on a tongue of land be-
tween the river and the lake. The
great ornament of this estate is the
remarkably fine timber, on which Mr.
Wynne has expended many years of
careful culture. He has introduced,
amongst others, the yew and the
arbutus, which flourish in great
abundance, increasing the similarity
Ireland.
Boute 8. — Lough QUI — Dromaliatre,
7S
of the foliage to that of Edllamey.
Within the deer-park the antiquary
will find a stone enclosore called
Leacht Con Mic Ruis, " the stone of
"Con, the son of Rush." The central
space is 50 fb. long by 25 wide, and
is connected by an avenue with 2
smaller enclosures. Within a circuit
of 3 m. no less than 30 raths are to
be found, and " in the townland of
Carrowmore there still exist 60 circles
and cromlechs, the largest collection
of monuments of this kind in the
British I^dands, and probably, with
the exception of Carnac, the most
remarkable in the world." — Petrie.
Lough Gill is about 5 m. in length
by 1^ broad, and is situated in a
l^in surrounded on all sides by
hills, those on the S. being rugged
and precipitous. This range consists
of Slieve Daeane (900 ft.) and Slish
Mountain (967), having a gneissic
character, passing into granite, whose
dark rocks contrast admirably with
the foliage of the lake shores.
There are several islands, many of
them planted by Mr. Wynne. The
largest of them are Cottage Island
at the entrance, and Church Island in
the centre ; the latter contains some
slight ruins. Both localities are the
chosen resort of picnic parties from
Sligo, who are particularly favoured in
having such a lovely rendezvous. For
those who prefer driving, the lake
may be seen to great advantage by a
road on the S. side, carried along
the side of Cairns Mountain (which
should be ascended by every visitor
to Sligo, as it is near the town, of easy
access, and commands magnificent
views). It then passes Caimsfoot
(Peter O'Connor, Esq.), Abbeyview
( — Phillips, Esq.), and Cleveragh
(Capt. Martin), adjoining the Hazel-
wood domain, and soon descends
to the shores of the lake, running
through a very romantic glen be-
tween Slieve Daeane and Slish
Mountain to Ballintogher. "From
a small rock rising out of the wood
which adorns the shores of Lough
[^Ireland.']
Gill, and which is about a mile E.
of the new Ballintogher entrance
to Hazelwood, perhaps the best
view is obtained. The rock is just
that height which exhibits the
limited area of the lake, its shores
and littie islands, to most advau-*
tage." — Fraser.
10 m. Dromahaire, a small town
on the rt. bank of tiie Bonet river,
which, rising in the hills near
Manor Hamilton, drains all that part
of the country and falls into Lough
Gill. There are several remains here
that will interest the antiquary.
The old Hall, the property of G.
Lane Fox, Esq., occupies the site of
a castie of the O'Rourkes, chiefs of
this district. The former building,
however, was made use of in 1626
by Sir William Villiers to erect a
Imronial mansion under a patent
fi-om the Duke of Buckingham, by
which he was granted 11,500 acres of
land in Dromahaire. It has been con-
siderably modernised, but contains
some traces of its old importance*
On the opposite side of tlie river,
close to Fnarstown (J. Johnstone,
Esq.), are remains of the abbey of
Crevelea,<founded for Franciscans by
Margaret, wife of O'Rourke, in 1508,
and dissolved in James I.'s reign.
O'Rourke's tomb, with his effigy, is
still visible, together "with some
curious figures over the graves of
the Morroughs, Comins, and others."
Besides these remains there are also
a ruined ch. on the hill-side, the
foundation of which is attributed to
St. Patrick, and a castle nearer the
lake, known as Harrison's Castle.
IHstancee. — Sligo, 10 m.; Manor
Hamilton, 9} ; Drumkeeran, 8J.
The tourist should return to Sh'go
on the N. side of the lake, passing
Sh m. from Dromahaire the ruins
of Newton-Gore, the manorial es-
tate of Sir Robert Gore Booth,
Bait. From hence the road keeps
at the back of Hollywell and Hazel-
wood to Sligo 6 m. The whole ot
this circuit will be about- 20 m. It
74
Boute 8. — Sligo to Strabane,
Ireland.
may be mentioned, for liie benefit
of the angler, that ike fishing in the
lough is excellent, but application
for permission must be made to the
owner.]
A car leaves Bianconi's coach-
office daily for Donegal and Stra-
bane. The road runs past the Imrbour,
and soon rises into somewhat high
ground, as it cuts across the neck of
the Elsinore promontory. 1 m. rt. is
Mount Shannon (F. M. Olpherts,
Esq.), and a little further on rt. 1 m.
are Doonally House (E. 0. Parke,
Esq.), and Willowbrook, a residence
of W. O. Gore, Esq., M.P. The
whole of the road from Sligo to
Cliffony and Bundoran is carrieid be-
tween the sea and^ a long range of
mountains, which, from their sudden
rise from the plain, their fine
escarpments, and their plateau-like
summits, are marked features in the
landscape. The general arrange-
ment of these hills is that of an
amphitheatre of which the northern
point is Benbulben (1722 ft.), suc-
ceeded by King's Moimtain (1527),
Truskmore (2113), Keelogyboy
(1430). To the S. of them are the
basin of Lough Gill, with the plain
and town of Sligo.
These limestone ranges offer good
finds to the botanist, viz. Aspidium
lonohitis, Asplenium viride, Poa
alpina, Oxyria reniformis, Saxifraga
vigoides, Arenaria ciliata, Draba
incana, Melanopsis Cambrica, &c.
5 m. rt. is the pretty Utile ch.
of Drumclijf (anc. Druim-chliabh),
standing on the bank of the river
of the same name, which here
enters Drumcliff Bay. A monas-
tery founded by St. Columb existed
here in 590, and was made into a
bishopric, afterwards, however, trans-
ferred to Elphin. The traces of its
former greatness are now limited to
two beautiful sculptured crosses in
the ch.-yard, and the broken base of a
round tower on the opposite side of
the road and adjoining the glebe.
. C A road on L keeps along the N.
side of Drumcliff Bay through the
village of Carney to 4 m. InssadeUt
the seat of Sir Kobert G^re Booth,
Bart., M.P., who has been most suo-
cessM in demonstrating how much
can be done to improve and beautify
a coa49t so exposed to the fury of the
Atlantic and devastated by sand-
heaps as this is. K the pedestrian
can afford the time, he will be in-
terested in this wild promontory,
and will be repaid by an excursion
round it, rejoining the high road at
Grange.
On the shore, close to Lissadell,
are the scanty ruins of Dimfort
Castle, while those of Ardtermon
are about 1 m. further on, close to
the miserable fishing village of
Bagldy. There is here, near the
shore, a singular open basin called
the Pigeon-holes, into which the
tide rushes with great force through
subterranean channels, and, as might
be expected, under strong westerly
winds, exhibits extraordinary efiects.
The district to the N. of this is
completely overrun with sand, and
doubtless many a dwelling and per-
haps buildings of more importance,
as the churches at Perranzabuloe in
Cornwall, have been buried here.
As it is, there are suf&cient ruins of
churches and castles to make it a
Tadmor in the wildemess.]
[6 m. a road on rt. branches off to
Manor. Hamilton 15 m. (Rte. 6)
through the vale of
Glencar, one of the most beautiful
and romantic spots in the whole
country. It traverses a narrow defile,
following the course of the Drumcliff
river between the King's Mountain
and some equally lofty mountains on
the S. At 4 m. the source of the
river is reached at Glencar Lough,
a lovely sheet of water lying at
the very base of the mountains.
Here is a fine waterfall 300 ft. in
height, the water of which, the
visitor may chance to be told in
Shgo, runs up hill, a state of things
explained by the curious fact " that
Ireland.
Bowte 8. — Cliffony — Bundoran.
75
when the wind blows strongly from
the S. the water is prevented from
descending." Glencar is a justly
fitvouiite excursion from Sligo, from
whence a new road has been made.
The road beyond Glencar Lough
continues through an equally fine
valley past the little ch. of EiUasnet
to Manor Hamilton.]
At 10 m. Grange the comer of
Benbnlben is rounded, and the
mountains gradually retreat further
inland towiuds Lough Melvin.
The traveller will notice, some
little way off the coast, the island of
Inhhmurray, famoxxa for its potheen,
and containing a very ancient mo-
nastery enclosed in a circular stone
fort The ch. was dedicated to St.
Molaise or Molash, of the date of the
6th cent. It is bmlt with a cement
of lime ; but the residences of the
monks were constructed without any
knowledge of the arch, with dome
roof, and without any cement. In
tile interior is a wooden image of
the saint. From Grange a singu-
larly straight road runs for miles
along the high ground overlooking
the coast to
Cliffony 14 m., where the tourist
interested in social improvements
may inspect those made by Lord
Palmerston in his estates. Indeed,
it must be evident to everybody,
whether interested or not, that the
cottages, gardens, fields, fences, and
inhabitants, are under a different
treatment from those of other and
less fortunate places, for there is
an aspect of cleanliness and gene-
ral comfort which at once strikes
the English traveller. The view on
the 1. embraces a large extent of
dreaiy eand-hillfl, but improyes a
little further N. at the promontory
of MuUaghmoret overlooking the
sheltered little community and har-
bour of Classylaun, which, together
with a store, has been formed by
Lord Palmerston, who caused to be
planted a vast extent of Ammophila
arundinacea» by which the soft
ground was cemented, and could
off^ resistance to the driving sand.
At 17^ m. the Duff river is
crossed at Bunduff Bridge, from
which point the road hugs the coast
pretty close, as it trends in a N.E.
direction. The view opens out very
finely over Bundoran and the bay of
Donegal, backed up in the N. by
the coast-line and mountains between
Donegal and Killybegs.
19^ m. a little beyond the village
of Tullaghan, the Drowes river issu-
ing from Lough Melvin is crossed,
and the county of Donegal entered.
On 1., between road and sea, are
remains of the castle of Duncarbry,
built by Isabel MacClancy in the
reign of Elizabeth. The frequent
aspect of neat roadside cot^ges,
together with now and then a more
ambitious style of house, betokens
tile approach to
21 j m. Bundoran {Hotels : Hamil-
ton's and Grallagher's), the great
N.W. bathing-place, to which tiie
rank and fashion of Ireland have
been of late resorting. It is cer-
tainly beautifully situated on a bold
portion of the coast of Donegal
Bay, but, like many other water-
ing-places, it lacks vegetation and
shelter, tiie hills, although fine objects
as a landscape, being too far off
to be available for near resort.
The opposite coast affords views of
St. John's Point and Lighthouse,
Inver and Killybegs Bays, termi-
nated in the extreme distance by
tiie cliffs of Teelin Head and Sheve
League. Bundoran is the favourite
resort of the Enniskillen people,
who, together with visitors from the
other s^e of the kingdom, frequent
it in large numbers. The tourist
will notice the envelope stuck up
in the windows, as a notification that
lodgings are to be let. The action
of tiie sea has worn the cliffs into
numerous grotesque forms, an ex-
ample of which may be seen in " the
Fairy Bridge, a single arch 24 ft in
span, having a causeway of half that
£ 2
76
Boute 8. — Sligo to Strabcme,
Ireland.
breadth perfectly formed and de-
tcuihed from all architectural en-
cumbrances."— Wright.
Conveyances. — Daily to Sligo; daily
to Donegal ; daily (3 times) to Bally-
shannon and EnnisMUen.
Distances. — Ballyshannon, 4 m.;
Sligo, 21^ ; Enniskillen, 81 ; Donegal,
17i ; Kinlough, 2 J ; Lough Melvin, 4 ;
Glenade, 9 J ; Manor Hamilton, 15.
Excursions. —
1. Kinlough and Lough Melvin.
2. Ballys^nnon.
[It is a very beautiful drive to
Manor H{unilton through Kinlough.
The Drowes is crossed at Lennox's
Bridge.
2| m. Kinlough (anc. Gean-lacka),
prettily situated at the western ex-
tremity of Lough Melvin, contains .a
spring impregnated with sulphuretted
hydrogen. There are some nice re-
sidences in the neighbourhood — Kin-
lough House (J. Johnston, Esq.),
Brook Hill, and, on the southern
bank of Lough Melvin, Mount Pro-
spect, tiie residence of Mr. ConoUy,
M.P., the owner of Bundoran.
Lough Melvin is a very consider-
able sheet of water 7 J m. in length ;
but though the southern banks are
extremely striking, it generally at-
tracts the angler more than the
general tourist. The former will find
acconmiodation at an inn at the little
village of Garrison on the W. side of
the lake, and he can obtain per-
mission to fish from Mr. Johnston of
Kinlough House. There is good
salmon until the middle of May,
after which grilse comes in; also
splendid trout-fishing, especially of
the sort named gillaroo. There
are several islands of no great
size, one close to the S. shore con-
taining the remains of tiie castle of
Bossclogher, "and on the eastern
shore are the ruins of the ancient ch.
of Bossinver, supposed to have been
that of the nunnery of Doiremell,
fpunded by St. Tigemach for his
mother St. Mella." — Lewis. Prom
Kinlough the road is carried up a
splendid ravine, similar to the one
at Glencar (p. 74), the hills on each
side rising in sudden escarpments to
the height of 1500 ft. At the top
of the water-level is
10 m. Lough Glenade, a small lake
buried in the heart of the mountains,
on the E. bank of which is Glenade
House (C. T. Cullen, Esq.). From
this lake issues the Bonet river, which
flows into Lough Gill at Droma-
haire(p.73).
15^ m. Manor Hamilton (Hte. 6).
The tourist should, however, before
arriving here, turn off to the rt. to
see the village of Lurganhoy, which
is situated in the middle of tiie most
romantic scenery.]
From Bundoran the road is tame
and surrounded by sandbanks. On L
is the ruined ch. of Inishmacsaint,
which, as the name implies, was at
one time situated on an island
previous to the drifting of the sand.
25^ m. BaUyshannon (anc. Ath-
seanaigh) (Bte. 6) {Hotels : Co-
bum's, Erne; both poor), famous
for its salmon-leap, presents from
a distance an infinitely pleasanter
appearance than a nearer inspec-
tion warrants. Its situation is edmost
fine, on a steep hill overlooking
the broad and rushing stream of
the Erne, but the streets are dirty
and mean, especially in the lower
part of the town. The castle of
Ballyshannon, of which scarce any
traces remain, was the scene of a
disastrous defeat of the English
under Sir Conyers Clifford in 1597.
They had besieged O'Donell, who
was shut up here, for 5 days ;
but the garrison having made a
desperate sally, they retreated in
haste, and lost a great portion of
their force in an unsuccessful at-
tempt to cross the Erne. The 2
portions of the town, the lower
one of which is called the Port,
are connected by a bridge of 16
arches, a few hundred ya^ above
the celebrated Falls, where an
enormous body of water is preci-
Ireland.
Boute 8. — Ball
79
pitated oyqt a clifif some 30 ft. high
and 10 above high water, with a
noise that is perfectly deafening.
This is Ihe scene of the salmon-leap.
"The salmon that drop down in
August and September return again
up the same river in the months of
spring, and this can only be ac-
complished by an ascent of the fall
at Ballyshannon. Traps are laid in
different parts of the fall, with
funnel-shaped entrances, into which
the salmon swim, and are preserved
until required for the market; in-
tervals are also left between the
traps, through which the fish reach
the top of 9ie fell by a spring of at
least 14 ft. in height, though it is at
low water that the scene of leaping
is displayed with the greatest ac-
tivity."— Wright. The fishery is very
valuable, and is rented by Dr. Sheil,
to whom application must be made
for leave to fish. Anglprs are, how-
ever, so numerous, that it is not
always possible for the proprietor to
grant permission. The antiquary
will find, in the parish of Kilbmron,
in which the N. part of Ballysbannon
is situated, no less than 14 Danish
raths, and between 3 and 4 m. to the
N.W. the ruins of Kilbarron CasUe,
an ancient fortress of the O'Clerys,
renowned in their day for their skill
in science, poetry, and history; Of
this femily was Father Michael
O'Clery, the leader of the illustrious
quartett of the Four Masters. It
stands on a precipitous rock at the
very edge of the coast. A little to
the N. of this is C)oolmore, fre-
quented as a bathing-place. On the
return (about J m. from the town),
visit the site and a portion of wall of
the abbey founded in 1179 by Roderic
le Canavan, Prince of Tirconnel.
A considerable trade is carried on
at Ballyshannon, and many improve-
ments were made by Col. ConoUy,
the owner of ihe soS, altliough the
existence of a dangerous bar at the
mouth of the river acts injuriously
to commerce. Pop. 3197.
r?
to Sligo ;"i?^««6vy.
and Bundoran^
Distances.— Sligi
ran, 4; Donegal, 13^ T'-^^y, oi
BeUeek. 4^ : Enniskillenr^^H^
tigoe, 17 ; Manor Hamilton, 19T
nson, 9.
Excursions. —
1. To Belleek and Rapids (Rte. 6).
2. Ballintra and the Pullins.
The route from Ballyshannon to
Donegal is through a dreary unin-
teresting country. 28i m. 1. Cavan
Garden, the seat of T. J. Atkinson,
Esq.
32 m. is the village of Ballintra^ in
the neighbourhood of which the
mountain limestone is very largely
developed. Near it is Brown Hall (J.
Hamilton, Esq.), through the grounds
of which the Ballintra river flows in
a very singular manner. The locality
is called the Pullins. " It is formed
by the course of a mountain torrent
which runs nearly a mile through a
most picturesque ravine shaded by a
mass of deep wood. A solid bed of
limestone seems to have been cleft
from 30 to 40 ft. in depth, and in
this narrow fissure, often turning at
a very acute angle, the river foams
along, frequently disappearing in
caves, when its course passes under
the rock for a considerable space.
** It seemed some mountain rent and riven
A channel for the stream had given.
So high the cliffs of limestone grey
Hung beetling o'er the torrent^ way."
Bokeby.
After a course again of ^ m. through
a meadow, ttie river reassumes its
wild character, but with increased
magnificence. It suddenly descends
about 60 ft. in a deep chasm, the rocks
actually meeting overhead, while a
precipitous wall bounds it on either
side ; it then emerges under a perfect
natural bridge, and, turning suddenly,
a vista appears opening upon the
sea in the distance, and on either
side a perpendicular rock extends in
a straight line to Ballintra, the river
78
^^ £)etween
occupying the entire *^
these wafl8."---|f^Hamilton, Esq.),
34Jm.O^'^^eJ' on the village
and ft.4Mr^ the 1. of which are
^y^rSe (A, H. Foster, Esq.), and,
^an. island at the entrance of Do-
negal Bay, St. Emans, the seat of
John Hamilton, Esq.
39 m. Donegal (Dun na Gall)
(Rte. 9) {Hotd\ Dillon's), a smaU
county town of about 1550 Inhab.,
is prettily situated at the mouth
of the E^ and the head of the bay
of Donegal. The numerous shoals
and difficulties of approach have how-
ever interfered sadly with its position
as a port, the business done here
being very small. The principal ob-
ject of interest is the ruined castle of
the O'Donells. "Tyrconnel is the
Celtic name of Donegal; meaning
the Land of Connel, who was son to
Kial of the 9 Hostages, a monarch of
Ireland of ancient lame, from whom
descended the O Donells of Done-
gal. James I. conferred in 1602 the
title of Earl of Tjrrconnel and Baron
Donegal on Eoderick O'Donell, one
of this race ; but it was lost to the
family from the wantof male issue." —
Dublin Univ. Mag. In 1587 O'Do-
nell held his castle in defiance
against the English government,
who, not having sufficient force to
send against him, captured him by
stratagem. A vessel was sent to the
coast laden with wine, the effects of
which were too powerful for the chief,
who had rashly accepted the hospita-
lities of the captain. He was bound,
when drunk, and carried to Dublin
Castle, from which, however, he even-
tuallv escaped. The castle of Donegal
is a beautiful Elizabethan building,
combining defensive with domestic
purposes, and consiBts of a tall
■p / 8 - '^^ ^ Strahane,
Ireland.
fine mullioned window, and cont^ns a
grand sculptured chimney-piece with
tile arms of Brooke and Leicester,
below which may be noticed the ball-
flower. Beneath this hall is a lower
room with a rudely vaulted roo^ the
stones placed edgeways. In the other
portion of the castle are a fine round-
beaded window-arch and a pointed
doorway. The situation overlooking
the Esk is very charming, and the
castie, together with the old-fashioned
garden —
•* A garden wild.
Where mlx'dJonquilA and gowang grow.
And roses 'midst rank clover blow " —
make up a lovely picture. It now
belongs to the Earl of Arran.
The Abbey, founded for Francis-
can friars in 1474 by Hugh Koe,
son of O'DoneU, occupies a roc^
position by the river-side. There
IS enough left to show that it was
a large cruciform church, with pro-
bably a central tower. It has the
remains of a good Dec. E. window,
and also one in the S. transept On
the N. of the ch. are the cloisters, of
which 7 arches remain on the E. and
6 on the N. They were of the same
height and character as those of
Sligo (p. 71). In this abbey were
compiled the famous * Annals of
Donegal,* better known under the
title of the * Annals of the Four
Masters,' of whom Father O'Clery,
of Eilbarron, was the chief.
The object of this compilation was
to detail the historv of Ireland up
to the time in which they lived, in-
cluding all local events, such as tiie
yeara of foundations and destructions
of churches and castles, the obituaries
of remarkable persons, the inaugu-
rations of kings, the battles of chieft,
the contests of clans, &c. ** A book,
consisting of 1100 quarto pages, be-
gabled tower with 2 bartizan turrets, | ginning with the year of the world
of which only one is perfect. It is 2242, and ending with the year of
more than probable that it was re-
built by Sir Basil Brooke, to whom
a grant was made in 1610. Theprin-
our Lord's incarnation 1616, thus
covering the immense space of 4500
yeara of a nation's history, must be
dpal apartment is lighted by a very , dry and meagre of details in some.
Ibkland. Boute 8. — Lough Easke — Lough Momtie.
79
if not in all, parts 'of it And al-
though the learned compilers had
at their disposal, or within tbeir
reach, an immense mass of historic
details, still the circumstances under
whjtsh they wrote were so unfavour-
able, that they appear to have exer-
cised a sound discretion, and one
consistent with the economy of time
and of their resources, when they left
the details of oiur very early history
in the safe keeping of such ancient
original records as &om remote ages
preserved them, and collected as
much as they could make room for
of the events of more modern times,
and particularly of the eventful times
in which they lived themselves." —
Prof. O'Cvrrey.
The Protestant ch. is in the prin-
cipal square, and has a pretty spire
and a hideous body. A Dissenting
congregation have lately erected a
chapel, which might possibly be
admired, had the builder not com-
mitted the unpardonable error of
blocking up the best view of the
old castle.
Cofiveycmces. — To Sligo daily; to
Strabane daily ; to Killybegs daily.
Distances. — Sligo, 39 m. ; Ballintra,
7 ; Bally shannon, 13 J ; Stranorlar,
17 ; Strabane, 30 ; Bamesmore Gap,
7 ; Lough Easke, 4 J ; Killybegs, 17 ;
Inver, 7| ; Mount Charles, 4 ; Carrick,
24; Ardara, 17 J; Dunkaneely, 11;
Glenties, 15.
Excursions. —
1. Lough Easke.
2. Belhntra.
From Donegal the road now leaves
the coast, turning inland and fol-
lowing up the valley of the Esk. The
mountains now assume a very beau-
tiful appearance, as the road allows
a full view of the ranges to the 1..
principally consisting of the Croagh-
gorm or Blue Stack Mountains (2219
ft.), Knockroe (2202), Croaghnageer
(1793), all of which are a continua-
tion of the chain which conunences
at Slieve League and Ardara. Im-
mediately opposite is the formidable
Grap of Bamesmore, and happy is
the traveller who gets through it on
a fine day without the usual ac-
companiment of wind and rain, or
*' smirr " as it is termed in Donegal.
A most exquisite landscape opens out
on the 1., in which the blue waters of
Lough Easke fill up the basin at the
foot of the hills ; and on its banks
are the woods and groves of Lough
Easke House, the beautiful seat of
T. Brooke, Esq. ; also the demesne
of Ardnamona (G. C. Wray, Esq.).
On an island near the S. bank are
the ruins of O'Donell's tower, said
to have been used by chiefs of that
clan as a place of confinement. Poly-
podium phegopteris and Asplenium
viride grow near the water&Il at the
lake.
Soon after quitting the neighbour-
hood of the Lough Easke, the road
crosses the Lowerymore river and
enters the Crajp of Bamesmore^ a
narrow mountain pass, on either of
which rises abruptly Bamesmore
(1491 ft.), and Croagh Conellagh
(1724). When the day is fine and
clear, the drive up to the watershed
is ,very fine, and on looking back the
traveller obtains an extensive view
over Donegal and the bay ; but if the
day is wet, the sooner he gets out of
the pass the better. Very near the
summit, 538 ft. above the sea, a spot
is pointed out where a man was hung
in chains, not many years ago, for a
murder conmiitted at this place.
50 m. rt. Lough Moume, a small
sheet of water, as sad and melan-
choly as its name. At one end
are slight traces of a castle, "in
which it is supposed the Huguenot
historian Bapin compiled h^ his-
tory."—^iacfc. [A httle before ar-
riving at the lake a road on rt. is
given off, following the course of the
Moume Beg river to Oastle Derg,
15 m. (Rte. 7).]
From Lough Moume the road
rapidly descends^ following the stream
of the Bum Daurnett. The views
are extensive, but they are by no
80
BotUe 9. — Ennishillen to KiUyhegs,
Ireland.
means equal to those that the tra-
veller has left behind, as the cha-
racter of the country is pastoral and
flax producing, while the hills are
much lower and monotonous in
outline.
56 m. BaUyhofey, a considerable
village, adjoining the still larger
one of Stranorlar {Inn: Miller's), the
river Finn, which here first makes
its appearance, intervening. The
only building of interest is a very
handsome Roman Catholic ch. lately
built. Close to the town are the woods
of Drumboe Castle (Sir S. Hayes),
and a little farther S. of the town
Tyrcallen (Marquis of Conjmghaml
Summer Hill (James Johnston, Esq.),
and Meenglass, the seat of Viscount
Lifford. [Some very pretty scenery is
to be met with by following the Finn
up its stream on the N. bank to Fin-
town, or on the S. bank to Glenties
(Rte. 10). 4 m. on S. bank is Glen-
more, the residence of W. M. Style,
Esq., and 7 m. on N. bank is Clo-
ghan Lodge, that of Sir T. C. Style,
to whose praiseworthy exertions the
improvement, both social and moral,
of a very large portion of country is
due. An enormous amount of wild
and useless land was reclaimed, a
ch. built, industrial schools founded,
and the whole condition of the
peajsantry ameliorated. There is a
pretty waterfall on the Finn, which
IS here crossed by a bridge connect-
ing the two roads.
The road now enters the hills, and
the river assumes the character of
a Highland stream, till the traveller
reaches 17 m. Fintown, a small
village, beautifully situated on the
l^nks of Lough Finn, and under the
steep clif& of Aghla (1953 ft.), and
Scraigs (1410). Some lead-mines,
likely to be productive, have been
opened here. From hence a road
falls into the Dunglow and Glen-
ties road (Rte. 10).]
Stranorlar is connected with Stra-
bane by the Finn Valley Rly., opened
in 1868, which boasts the merit of
being the cheapest rly. in Ireland,
as it only cost 50002. a mile.
60 m. KiUyaordont a pleasant vil-
lage, also on tne banks of the Finn,
contains nothing to detain the tourist.
About 1 m. rt. is a house where the
Duke of Berwick is said to have
passed the night in his northern
campaign 1689.
2 m. rt. are Mounthall (W. Young,
Esq.), and Monellan House ( — Delap,
Esq. ). Further on are Donaghmore Ch.
a.na Housct the latter the ^lebe-house
and residence of the Irving family,
the patrons of the living. 63^ m.
Castle Finn was anciently a posses-
sion of the 0*Donells, from whose
hands it passed in the reign of Eliza-
beth. The Finn here becomes
navigable for vessels of small burden.
Distances.— 'Ra.phoe (p. 86), 6 hl;
Castle Derg, 7.
At the Tiillage of Clady 65J m. the
Finn is cros^d, as the road on
the 1. bank keeps on to Lifibrd.
Passing the demesne of Umey
(A. F. Enox, Esq.), the traveller
soon reaches 69 m. atrdbane (Rte. 7)
{Hotel : Sim's Abercorn Arms).
ROUTE 9.
PROM ENNISKILLEN TO PETTIGOE
DONEGAL, AND KILLYBEGS.
This route to Donegal by the E.
bank of Lough Erne, is not usually
followed by travellers, who for the
most part go by Ballyshannon. It
is, however, a beautiful drive to
Pettigoe, pakicularly if the tourist
keeps the road alongside of the
lake, and not the car-road through
Lowtherstown. For a short distance
it runs close to the railway, diverge
ing at a small pool called the Race-
Ikelanb.
Boute 9. — Petttgoe — Lough Derg»
81
course Lake, and approaching Lough
Erne at 4 m. Trony eh. On the
rt. of the road is the mound of
Mossfield Fort. Before reaching the
ch. a road turns off on rt. to Low-
therstown. At 5 m. the Bellana-
mallard stream is crossed near its
mouth. On rt. is Riversdale (Major
Archdall), and ftirther on are the
demesnes of Rossfad (H. Bichardson,
Esq.). The views from this road are
much finer than can be obtained
from the Ballyshannon road, as it
embraces all the cliff and hill scenery
on the W. shore. The estates too
on this side are fine and beautifully
wooded, particularly those of Oastle
Archdall (Capt. Archdall, MJ*.) and
Bockfield (Capt. Irvine).
At 11 m. Lisnacarrickf a road
comes in from Lowtherstown or
Stromertown, 2J m. distant. Close
to it is Necam CdsUe (H. M. D'Arcy
Irvine, Esq.).
15 m. Kesht a small place on the
river of the same name, containing
nothing whatever to interest the tra-
veller. The country now begins to
get wilder, an extensive and dreary
range of hills stretching from Omagh
on file E. into the neighbourhood of
Donegal. The Kesh river rises
about 10. m. to the N.E. in the hills of
Dooish, 1110 ft. Passing rt. Clonelly
Hquse (F. W. Barton, Esq.), soon
after which the "tourist arrives at
20 m. Fetiigoe (Jnn: Hamilton's),
on tiie river Termon, and very near
the north bank of Lough Erne, op-
posite the long and narrow Boa
Isleoid.
Pettigoe is in the parish of Tem-
plecame, near the glebe-house of
which are the ruins of Termon Ma-
grath, a strong keep with circular
towers at the angles, said to have
been the residence of Myler Magrath,
the first Protestant Bp. of Clogher ;
it was battered by Ireton in the Par-
liamentary war. The prefix of Ter-
mon signifies sanctuary — " in former
times the founder of a ch. being
obliged, prior to its consecration by
the bishop, to endow it with certain
properties for the maintenance of the
clergy connected with the establish-
ment. To these lands, which were
denominated Erenach or Termon
lands, various privileges were an-
nexed ;. they were exempt from all lay
charges, and became sanctuaries, and
were in some respects equivalent to our
glebe-lands." Waterfoot is the seat of
H. W. Barton, Esq. Notwithstanding
the seeming insignificance of Petti-
goe, it is the rendezvous of half the
devotees in Ireland, who at certain
seasons throng the place on their way
to Lough Derg^ which lies about 4^ m.
to the N., in as wild and forbidding
a mountain region as can well be
imagined. ** It is said that no road
is constructed here, lest the devo-
tions of the pilgrims should be inter-
rupted by the presence of too many
heroes. Nothing can be more de-
solate than the landscape around
Loch Derg. Barren heathy hills
surround it on every side, possessing
neither form nor elevation to give
the slightest interest to the scene."
— Inglis. The lake itself is 6 m. long
and 4 broad, and contains several
rocky islands, the largest of them,
the Station Island, being the scene
of tte annual visit of 10,000 unfor-
tunate people, who journey hither
from all parts of Ireland, and even
the Continent, to undergo penance
in St. Patrick's purgatory. From
the 1st of June to the 15th of
August is the time prescribed for
their religious ceremonies, and th©
number of visitors at this period
varies from 10,000 to 15,000. A
ferry-boat, for the charge of Qd, a
head, conveys the devotees to the
Station Island, which is about half a
mile from the shore. Even this spot
of ground is only a few yds. acrose^
and is covered wilii modem buildings,
including chapels and accommoda-
tion for penitents. " In the vicinity
of IJie chapels are a number of cir-
cular stone walls, from 1 to 2 ft, in
height, called the Seven Saints* Peni-
B 3
82
Boute 9. — Enniskillen to Killylegs,
Ireland.
tential Beds ; and around these, on
the hard and pointed rocks, the peni-
tents pass upon their hare knees,
repeating a certain form of prayer at
ewihr—Holy WeOs of Ireland. It
woiid he foreign to a Handbook to
descrihe the details of the ceremonies,
accounts of which can he obtained
in other works on Ireland. The
geologist will notice the change
from the limestones of Lough Erne
to the extensive region of mica
slates, which from this point em-
braces nearly the whole of the N.W.
portion of the kingdom. The very
vegetation in the neighbourhood of
Lough Derg attests the change, and
cannot fail to strike the intelligent
observer.
From Pettigoe a wild mountain
road passes under the base of Knock-
adrin 752 ft., and Oughtnadrin 1057
ft., falling into ^e Ballyshdhnon
road at L^hy village, from whence
it is 3} m. to Donegal (Rte. 8).
Hotel : Dillon's. A car leaves Done-
gal every morning for Killybegs, dis-
tance 23 m. From the bridge over
the Easke the tourist obtains the best
view of Donegal Castle, and the
road then crosses the head of the
bay, affording very pretty coast
scenes overlooking Doorin and St.
John's Promontories.
40 m. Moimtcharles, a large vil-
lage, built on the side of a steep
hiU. Facing the sea is the HaU,
a property belonging to the Mar-
quis of donyngham, but generally
occupied by his agent. Arrived at
the top of the hiU, it will he seen
that me road cuts cff the neck of
Doorin Promontory, and descends
a long hill to Inver, 49 m., which is
conspicuous for a considerable dis-
tance from its pretty ch. spire em-
bosomed in woods. Notwithstand-
ing the tediousness of these hilly
roads, the tourist will rarely find the
time hang heavy, for the views of
the Donegal mountains are superb.
To his rt. he has the ranges of Blue
Stack, Silver HiU, Benbane, and Mul-
mosog, extending from Bamesmore
G«p on the E. to Ardaraon the W. ;
while, in front of him is the mighty
mass of Crownarad beyond K^ly-
begs, and (seen from some points)
the distant precipices of SlieveLiagh
or League.
At Inver the Eanybeg river is
crossed in its course frx^m Silver Hill
to the sea. In the woods to the rt.
is Bonyglen, used as a fishing-lodge.
The r<md again ascends and cuts off
the St. John's Point, a singular
narrow stretch of land that runs out
to sea for some distance, and is
terminated at the extremity by a
fixed lighthouse.
53 m. Dunkinedy, a decayed-look-
ing village of one street, from
which the traveller will be not loth
to emerge. A little further on are
the ch. and glebe-house of Kil-
laghtee, overlooking the strand of
M'Swyne's Bay. This district was
formerly possessed by the M*8wyne8,
a very powerful sept, whose castle, a
square massive tower, still exists close
to the sea. There is a pretty bit of
landscape at Bruckless, where the
river Corker fiows past a miniature
pier, mill, and mansion embosomed in
trees. Crossing the next high ground,
we descend upon the most charming
of land-locked bavs, on one side
of which, completely sheltered from
storms, is
59 m. Killybegs (anc. Cealha-
beaga) (Rte. 10), a clean plea-
sant little seaport, which, without
any pretensions to the dignity of a
watering-place, wiU, as fieur as situa-
tion goes, well repay a visit. {Hotels :
Coane's and Rogers* ; both comfort-
able.) The tide comes up to the
doors of the houses, although the
harbour is a complete refuge from
its being so sheltered. At the en-
trance to the bay is a lighthouse, and
on the western shore are the wooded
grounds and residence of the in-
cumbent (Rev. W. Lodge), together
with the renmants (very slight) of a
castle and of a ch,, overgrown with
Ireland.
BotUe 9. — Kilcar — Slieve League.
83
brashwood, and not possessing any
remarkable features. The visitor
should inspect the schools built by
Mr. Murray, which are as well
ordered as lliey are of pretty and
tasteful design.
Conveyances. — Car to Donegal
daily.
Distances. — Donegal, 23 m. ; Inver,
10; Dunkaneely, 6; Arduu, 10;
Glenties, 16 ; Fintragh, 2 ; Kilcar,
6J ; Carrick, 9 ; Slieve League, 12 ;
Glen, 16 J ; Malinmore, 17.
Excursions. —
1. Kilcar.
2. Carrick and Slieve League.
3. Ardara.
The tourist should now take a car
(as there is no further public con-
veyance) to explore the district be-
yond KiUybegs, which, as £Eir as
scenery goes, is equal to anything
in Ireland, and deserves to be
thoroughly well known.
The next descent brings us down
to 6 m. Fintragh Bay, overhung by
the block of mountain known as
Crownarard, 1619 ft. Fintragh House
is the residence of B. Hamilton, Esq.
The sea-views are very exntesive as
we journey along the elevated road,
embracing the whole coast from the
sandhills of Bundoran to Sligo, and
the districts of Eiris and Tyrawley.
The limestone ranges of Benbulben
and Truskmore are particularly con-
spicuous.
65^ m. KUcar, a romantic' village
on the slope of a hill, at the foot of
which is the ch., and a brawling
mountain torrent, forming altogether
a charming picture. As the road
ascends the steep hillB again, the
geologist will notice the heaps of bog
iron-ore, which is largely extracted
from this locality and taken to Teelin
to be shipped, from whence it goes to
Belfast and Liverpool. The per-
centage of iron is not very great, but
firom its fusibility it is peirticularly
adapted to fine castings.
Again descending a wild moorland
region, is 68 m. Carrick, another
highland village, situated on the
bank of the Teelin river, and at the
foot of the gigantic mass of Slieve
Liagh or League, which rises to 1972
ft., and has a very prominent and
peculiar edge. The tourist should
make Carrick his head-quarters
at the pleasant little hoteV built
by Mr. Conolly, M.F.» where he will
find great cleantiness and eivihty,
with peculiar advantages for expior^
ing a district teeming; with eoast and
mountain beauty.
Distances. — ^Kill^begs^9 ?ii. ; Glen,,
6 ; Ardara by Glengeask, 14 ; Slieve
League, 2^.
For the ascent of the latter moun-
tain, the tourist had better iake a
guide, more for the purpose of
saving time than because there is
any danger ; for the outljring ridges
are so ooggy and deceptive that
a straight cut is especially to be
guarded against. For about 1 m.
the road follows the Glen or Teelin
river, which like that at ^illybegs
speedily changes from a mountain
torrent into a landlocked bay of
great beauty. On the rt. bai^ is
Boxborough, the residence of Eev. F.
Labatt, the rector of Kilcar. There is
a coastguard station at Teelin, the
most likely place to obtain a boat,
should it be required to row round
any part of the coast. The guide
should be told to bring tiie visitor
first of all to Bunglas, ** beautiful
view," by which route he passes
Corrigan Head, a fine promontory
jutting suddenly out in splendid clififs
which are seen to great perfection by
this path. From hence is visible one
of the many martello towers which
are placed in regular rotation round
the coast. At Bunglas Point a view
of singular magnificence bursts upon
you— a view that of its kind is pro-
bably unequalled in the British Isles.
The lofty mountain of Slieve League
gives on the land side no promise
of tiie magnificence that it presents
from the sea, being in fajct a mural
precipice of nearly 2000 ft. in height,
84
Houte 9. — EnnisJcillen to Killyhegs,
Ireland,
descending to the water's edge in
one superb escarpment —
**aronnd
Whose caveraed base the whirlpools and the
waves
Bursting and eddying irresistibly,]
Bage and resonnd for ever."
Shelley,
And not only in its height is
it BO sublime, but in the glorious
colours which are grouped in
masses on its fSeice. Stains of metals,
green, amber, gold, yellow, white,
red, and every variety of shade
are observed, particularly when seen
under a bright sun, contrasting in a
wonderful manner with the dark
blue waters beneath. In cloudy or
stormy weather this peculiarity is
to a certain degree lost, though
other effects ti&e its place and
render it even more magnificent*
This range of sea-cliff extends with
little variation aU the way to Malin,
though at nothing like the same
altitude. Having feasted the eyes
well with the beauties of the pre-
cipices, the tourist should ascend,
skirting the cliffs the whole way.
Near the summit the escarpment
and the land ascent approach so
closely as to leave only a very pre-
carious path, which is termed the
One Man's Edge, and is looked on
by the inhabitants of the neighbour-
hood in the same light as the Striding
Edge of Helvellyn or the Bwlch-y-
Maen of Snowdon. However, it
cannot be considered so dangerous as
these, because a fall on the land
side, though unpleasant, would not
entail destruction, though with a
sharp sea-wind blowing it is no
easy work to keep one's footing.
At the very summit are the remains
of ancient oratories. The view is
Wondrous fine. Southwards is the
whole coast of Sligo and Mayo, from
Benbulben to the Stags of Broad-
haven ; while further in the distance
are faintly seen Nenhin, near Ballina,
and (it is also said) Oroagh Patrick,
at Westport. Northward is a perfect
sea of Donegal mountains, reaching
as £ar as Slieve Snaght and Arrigal,
with all the intervening ranges
near Ardara, Glenties, and Dunglow
fKte. 10). In the descent the path
made for the use of tourists should
be followed, passing down a deep
cleft in the mountain, at the bottom
of which reposes a small tarn.
A second excursion should be
taken from Carrick to Ardara, to
the magnificent glen of Geask,
through which the road is carried
across the highland moors to Ar-
dara. It is, however, so abomi-
nably bad, that it is almost im-
passable, the writer of this notice
having been obliged in many places
to assist in. carrying the car vi et
armis, so that perhaps Glengeask
will be more- comfortably visited
by proceeding from Killybegs to
Ardara, and from thence ma^ng a
special journey.
A 8rcl visit should by aU means be
paid to Glen, a district which tourists
should not fiedl to explore. Instead
of stopping short at Slieve League, as
most are content to do. It is 6 m.
from Carrick.
[At the 2nd m. a road turns off to
the 1. to Malinmoret where very com-
fortable accommodation can be ob-
tained at a farmhouse kept by Miss
Walker. The coast is very fine,
although not on such a grand scale as
at Glen, a little further on. There
is a fixed lighthouse and coastguard
station.]
After traversing the high moor-
ground the road suddenly descends
or breaks into the Glen Valley, a
remote highland glen of great beauty,
although impressed with a somewhat
melancholy and sombre cast. A
rather large population is scattered
up and down the glen, at the bottom
of which are the ch. and village of
Glen Oolumbkill, or the Glen of
St. Oolumb, for it was in this retired
spot that the Saint Oolumb particu-
larly loved to dwell. At a turn in
the road the visitor will notice an
Ibelakd.
BoiUe 10. — Sirabane to KiUybegs,
85
ancient cross in fine preservation,
whicli, together with the antiqua-
rian as well as legendary lore of the
district, luts been carefully and zeal-
ously looked after by the Rev. V.
Griffith, the incumbent. The re-
mains which are accredited to St.
Columb are the cross already alluded
to, the house of the saint, his bed,
and his well, close to which an
enormous pile of stones attests the
numbers of devout pilgrims. In the
interior of the 4 waUs, said to have
been his bed, is a smooth stone,
which according to tradition is said
to have been placed by St. Columb
(who was blind of one eye) on the
sound one, that he might not over-
sleep himself. In consequence of this
sacred use it is carried round the
village with a view to exercising
its miraculous powers of healing in
cases of bad eyes. The well-marked
path round the bed betokens the
frequent pattern that is held here.
A very curious belief exists in
Glen, viz., that it was for a con-
siderable time the hiding-place of the
Pretender, ere he could find his way
out of Great Britain into another
country. As has been shown by
Mr. Griffith in the * Dublin Univer-
sity -Magazine,' the proofs of the
story certainly give strong reason to
believe in its truth. A headland is
pointed out where the prince used
to repair each day with his servant
to scan the offing in search of ships.
The mountains and clifis abound in
remarkable and fistntastic shapes,
and the tourist will be amply repaid
by a ramble of about 2 m. over
tiie hills to Glen Hectd, a precipice of
800 ft., which descends to the sea
as sharp and clean as a knife. Im-
practicable as it seems, the peasants
think nothing of being swung down
to collect the few blades of sweet
grass that grow in the crevices. On
the headland above is one of the
watch-towers that abound on this
coast. As the cliffs trend to the east,
they exhibit wonderful forms and
•
positions, particularly at Tormore,
where the rocks are pitched about as
though the ancient giants had been
playing with them. The geologist
will observe the effects of sea action
in a most marked manner; instead
of returning to Glen, he should
keep along the coast to Loughros
Beg Bay, and so to Ardara (Rte. 10)
{Inn: Mullany*8, bad). The 20 m.
from Teelin Bay to Loughros Bay
is, as &r as coast scenery goes, not
to be excelled by any locality in
Great Britain.
ROUTE 10.
PROM STRABANE TO LETTERKENNY,
GWEEDORE, DUNGLOW, ARDARA,
AND KILLYBEGS.
A mail-car leaves Strabane early in
the morning for Letterkenny 16i m.,
returning hence in the evening.
Grossing the broad stream of the
Foyle by a long and narrow bridge
of 12 arches, the traveller enters the
little town of Lifford {Inn : Erne),
which, although the county town,
is so small that it seems entirely
made up of court-house and jail,
lifibrd was the scene of an obstinate
battle in 1600, between the English
garrison of Derry under Nial Garbh
O'Donell and Hugh O'Donell, and,
though now the quietest of villages,
was an important market-town in the
time of James I. From hence the
road runs over a hilly open ground*
86
BotUe 10. — Strdbane to Killybega. Ireland.
pleasantly diversified with occasional
views over Strabane and the valley
of the Foyle, while the traveller sees
ahead of him the blue peaks of the
Derryveagh Mountains. 2 m. the
river Deel is crossed [on either side
of which a road 1. is given off to
Baphoe 5 m., passing through the
vilhige of Ballindrait, close to which
are the woods of .Oavanacor House
(Col. Humphrey). Raphoe is a plea-
santly-situated little town, once
&mous for being the seat of a
bishopric, which was, however, united
to that of Derry in 1835. A
monastery established here by St.
Oolumb was afterwards converted
into a bishopric by St. Eunan in the
11th cent. From that time must be
dated the conmiencement of the ca-
thedral, a plain cruciform building,
with a square tower of the last
cent., which is also the date of the
transepts added by Bishop Pooley in
1702. The ruined episcopal residence
stands near the cathedmL At Bel-
tany, on the summit of a hiU 2 m.
&om Eaphoe, is a stone circle 150
yds. in circumference, formed by 67
upright stones, on the E. side of
which is an opening formed by 2
larger ones. " The name Beltany is
supposed to be a corruption of Baal
tinne, * the fire of Baal,' intimating a
spot where that deity was particularly
worshipped in Ireland, and having
the same etymology in Gaelic as the
Beltani tree burned at Midsum-
mer."— HaU. Baphoe is well placed
at the foot of the great range of
Donegal Mountains, as they begin to
decline into the lowlands, and many
fine views may be obtained in the
neighbourhood from Mullafin 954 ft,
and from the Herd's Seat, which
rises over the village of Convoy.
Some 7 or 8 m. higher up, the Deel
takes its rise in Lough Deel, a smtdl
lake at the summit of the Cark
Mountain 1205 ft.]. The traveUer
will soon discover that he is in the
head-quarters of the flax country,
especially if it happen to be in tiie
latter end of August or beginning of
September. All the little streams
are dammed up for the purpose of
soaking the flax, whilst the fields are
strewn with regularly laid bundles,
more pleasing to the eye than the
nose, which is oflended by a fresh
burst of odour every 100 yards. ( J»-
trod.t p. XXXV.)
11^ m. a road on rt. branches off
to the village of Manor Cunningham,
and soon Lough Swilly comes into
view. As it appears from its lower
end, it is tame and bare, although
the hills which loom in the distance
give promise of better scenery.
16| m. LeUerkenny {Hold: He-
garty's, very comfortable), a pleasant
little town of one long sta-eet oc-
cupying the side of a Mil and over-
looking a large expanse of country.
With file exception of the ch., on the
summit of the hill, the poorhouse,
and a new clock-tower, lately erected,
Letterkenny itself contains nothing
of interest, but it can be recom-
mended as good head-quarters for
those tourists who wish to explore
the hill country. There are some
nice residences in the neighbourhood,
as Ballymacool (J. R. Boyd, Esq.),
and Gortlee (Capt. Patterson).
Conveyance. — To Strabane daily.
To Dun&naghy daily. To London-
derry daily.
Distances, — Strabane, 16 J m. ; Dun-
&iiaghy, 22; Gweedore, 22; Dun-
glow, 30 ; Derryveagh, 17i ; Kilmacre-
nan, 7i; Churchtown, 9; Rathmel-
ton, 7 ; RAphoe, 8) ; Doocharry Bridge,
22.
Excursions, —
1. Edlmacrenan.
2. G^artan Lough.
From Letterkenny the road tra-
verses an open hilly country, di-
versified with distant views of hill,
river, and lake. [At 20^ m. a road on
rt is given off to Milford, 6 J m., pass-
ing 2]f^m. rt. Ballyarr House, the seat
of Lord George Hill, to whom the
whole district which the traveUer ip
Ireland.
BotUe 10. — Kilmacrenan,
87
about to visit is under deep obliga-
tions.
Crossing a small river at Dmm-
nian Bri(^e, the road runs parallel
with Lough Fern, a sheet of water
about 1} m. in length, on the E. side
of which the ground rises to 500 ft.
6 J m. Milford (Rte. 11) is a small
vUlage, interesting only for its prox-
imity to the beautiful scenery of
Mukoy Bay.]
24 m. KUmacrenan is verjt
prettily situated in a mountain val-
ley, through which the Lannan
river rushes down in picturesque
stream. As the road descends into
the village, the tourist gets distant
views on rt. of Lough Fern, and,
considerably beyond it, the indented
summits of the Glenalla Mountains,
which iatervene between it and
Lough Swilly ; on rt. are the ruins of
Kilmacrenan Abbey, foimded by St
Columb, consisting of a slender and
rather graceful tower, lighted by
pointed windows in the top stage,
besides scanty remains of other build-
ings surrounded by an enclosure.
The parish ch. is said to have been
built on the site of a Franciscan
priory, and has over the door the
sculptured head of an abbot taken
from the abbey.
Not fiir from the village is the
Rock of Boon, " on which tiie O'Do-
neUs were always inaugurated by
priests whom they regarded as de-
scended from St. Oolumb." — Levsis.
Distances. — ^Dunfianaghy, 14^ m.;
Letterkenny, 7^; Milfor^ 5; Bath-
melton, 6^ ; Lough Salt, 5.
At the jimction of the road to
Dunfanaghy the road crosses the
Largy river, and traverses a wild
uninhabited district round which
groups of rugged hills soon begin to
close. Winding up a long and tedious
hiU, the traveller is well repaid by a
delicious distant view of the blue
waters of Gartan Lough, which, with
its wooded banks, breaks on the eye
with peculiar pleasure, after the
brown and monotonous hill-sides.
[At 29} m. a moorland road
branches off to Gkurtan Lough and
Church Hill, 4 m. What appears
from the road to be one lake is
really 2 sheets of water, the upper
one. Lough Agibbon, being separated
by a narrow neck of land from Lough
G^artan, on the E. shore of which is
BellvUle, a seat of J. Stewart, Esq.
Trollius EuropsBus flourishes on tiiese
lakes.
On the side of the upper lake is a
ruined chapel, still used as the burial-
place of the O'Donells. It was built
on the spot where St. Columb is said
to have been bom in 521. His name
was originally Crunthan, afterwards
changed to Columb, from the sim-
plicity of his disposition (Columba),
a dove. " He was of royal extraction,
being, by the paternal side, descended
(through Conall Gulban) from NiaU,
while his mother Athena was of an
illustrious house of Leinster."
From hence the traveller can
return by a different road to Letter-
kenny, 9 m., descending into the
valley of the Swilly at Foxhall (J.
Chambers, Esq.), passing afterwards
tiie Glebe of Doon (Kev. Dr. Kings-
mill), Rockhill (J. V. Stewart, Esq.),
and Ballymacool (J. B. Boyd, Esq.),
the last 2 demesnes lying on opposite
banks of the river.]
The scenery from this point to
Glenveagh resembles much of the
Scottish Highlands — large extensive
moors shut in on all sides by hUls,
some of them rising to a considerable
height. For some distance it would
appear that the way lies up a broad
depression nmning N. and S., but
a sudden turn of the road reveals
the singular summit of Muckish
2197 ft., which, from its precipitous
escarpment, seemshigher than it really
is. The traveller is now fairly
amidst the mountain ranges, which,
seen when the mist is rising, or the
cloud shadows floating gently by, are
charming, but which, when overtaken
by Donegal ** Smirr," he will scarcely
appreciate, for there is not a wildei*
88
Boute 10. — Strdbaneio KiUyhegs,
Ireland.
or bleaker road in Great Britain, or
one so open to storms.
The geological composition of the
mountains is granite, having a gneis-
sic structure, the quartz lodes of
which occasionally gleam with a
brightness aU the more dazzling
from the contrast with the dark
masses.
32 m. the Owencarrow river is
crossed as it enters Lough Beagh or
Veagh. A little farther on there is a
very charming glimpse of the lake,
a long narrow piece of water entirely
shut in by mountains, which, espe-
cially at the lower end, descend pre-
cipitously to the very brink. On the
1. bank, looking downwards, are Al-
tachoastia (1737 ft.), and Kinnaveagh
(1270), and on the opposite side is
Keamnacally (1220), a portion of
the great range of the Derryveagh
Mountains, the highest point of
which is Dooish (2147). It would
be well for the tourist to consult
his map while joumej^ng down
this pass, in order that he may
understand the physical arrange-
ment of this part of Donegal. It
appears that the country between
Lough Swilly and the sea is traversed
by several ranges of hills all running
in nearly the same direction, viz. from
N E. to S.W. . Commencing near
Lough Swilly, we have the Glen^la
hills, which are separated by the
valley of the Lannan from those
which overlook and are parallel to
Gartan Lough. Westward of this
lake are the Glendowan Mountains,
intervening between it and Glen-
veagh. Then come the Derryveagh
Mountains just spoken o^ divided by
a considerable mountain valley from
the Arrigal group, which abruptly
slope towards the sea. There are,
therefore, a succession of ranges,
with more or less narrow glens be-
tween, all having the same definite
arrangement — a feature which will
enable the traveller to understand
his whereabouts with great ease.
£A road turning off by the police-
barracks runs down the glen along
the bank of the lake to Glenvedgh,
the mountain residence of J. Adair,
Esq^ who allows free passage to the
tourijst over his property. Indeed,
one of the most splendid excursions
in Ireland is to be found in Glen-
veagh, passing through it to the
Poisoned Glen. Noble cliffs, covered
with brushwood, in which the golden
eagle still build, rise from the water's
edge to the height of 1200 ft., and
wi&i the thick growth of natural
wood, make Glenveagh a formidable
rivad to the beauties even of Kil-
lamey. The scenery at the great
wateHall of Astellion is particularly
striking. If the excursionist does
not wish to proceed to Gweedore by
the Poisoned Glen, he may continue
through the paas to Doocharry
Bridge (p. 91), where he should
previously order a car to meet him
to take him either to Dunglow or
Glenties, in whichever direction he
was going. This precaution is ne-
cessary, as there is no inn or any
accommodation at Doocharry Bridge.
The distance from Owencarrow is
15 m.]. Quitting the valley of Glen
Veagh, the road winds round the
base of Kingarrow (1068 ft), and
turns to the 1. to enter the last
mountain valley. [A road straight
on passes immediately imder Muckidh
at the Gap, and runs to Cross-roads
7 m. (p. 98).] This is the valley of
the Calabber, which joins the Owen-
carrow, and is singularly wild and
desolate. On the rt. rises Muckish
(the pig's back), remarkable for its
peculiar shape and fine escarpment ;
next to it are Crocknalsu^gagh
(1554 ft.), Aghla Beg (1860), and
Aghla More (1916), while on L is
the Dooish range. The botanist will
find on Muckish Saxifraga serrata-
folia and Melamp3Tum pratense.
Peering loftily over the very end
of the valley is the singular and
beautifrd summit of Arrigal (2466
ft.), with its glistening seams of
quartz. As the traveller a^cenda
Ireland.
Movie 10. — Oweedore,
89
towards the watershed,' he gains
charming peeps of Glen Lough in
the foreground, with Mulroy Bay in
the distance, while near the summit
level the attention is arrested on the
rt. by AUan Lotighy a dark savage-
looking tarn in a deep gap between
Aghla More and Arrigal, both of
which mountains slope down to its
banks with great rapidity. At 37^ m.
the watershed is gained, and a view
opens up which is hardly to be sup
passed in Great Britain. The road
winds by the side of a very deep
valley, through which the Owen-
wee runs. On the rt. is Arrigal
Mountain, rising up with startling
abruptness, and presenting from this
side the regular cone that makes it
so conspicuous among its brethren.
Towards the summit, indeed, it pre-
serves its conical shape so fax as
scarcely to allow room for a per-
son to lie across it. On the 1. is a
grand amphitheatre of mountains,
heaped together in irregular masses
and terminating in the lofty,
rounded head of Slievesnacht (the
Hill of Snow, 2240 ft.). A deep
•* corrie," known by the name of the
Poisoned Glen, runs up in a cul-de-
sac into the very heart of the moun-
tains, guarded by steep precipices,
down which a small stream glances
on its way to join the Devlin river
just before it falls into Dimlewy
lake, which, together with Lough
Nacung, forms a sheet of water 4 m.
in length, filling up the valley in
such a manner as to appear more
like an arm of the sea than a fresh-
water lake. On the opposite bank
of Lough Dunlewy is Dunlewy
House (G. F. Brady, Esq.), perched
upon a knoll over the lake, and
surrounded by woods. The situa-
tion is so exquisitely beautiful, that
it is a pity that the intentions of the
former proprietor, Mr. Russell, to re-
build the mansion, were not carried
out, and a building more in character
with the scenery substituted for the
present one. At tiie head of the lake
is a pretty ch., with glebe-house,
schools, and other pleasant tokens
of civilization. This charming route
deserves to be more known, for
there is scarcely any scenery in
Ireland that surpasses it. From
hence the road keeps rapidly down
the side of Arrigal until it reaches
the Clady river, the outlet of the
lakes, and keeps along its bank to
45J m. Gioeedore, where the
traveller will be surprised to find
a comfortable and well -managed
hotel, from whence he can make
excursions through this picturesque
district. The name of Lord George
Hill, the proprietor of the estate,
is so thoroughly identified with
that of Gweedore, that it will not
be amiss to detail a few facts con-
cerning him. He first settled in this
part of the country in li:38, pur-
chasing 23,000 acres in the parish of
Tullaghobegly, which he found in a
state of distress and want so great that
it became the subject of a parliament-
ary inquiry. Although there appeared
to have been a considerable amount
of exaggeration in the statements
made, enough remained to show that
famine, pestilence, and ignorance were
lamentably prevalent. The prospects
of the lan^ord were fer from en-
couraging, on account of the sorry
nature of the ground, the severity of
the climate, the difficulty of collect-
ing his rent, but, more than all,
the extraordinary though miserable
system of Kundale, which was uni-
versal through the district. By this
arrangement a parcel of land was
divided and subdivided into an in-
credible number of small holdings,
in which the tenant very likely held
his proportion or share in 30 or 40
different places, which had no fences
or walls whatever to mark them. The
utter confrision and hopelessness of
each tenant being able to know his
own land, much more to plant or
look after it, may well be imagined.
And not only to land was this system
applied, but also to more portable
90
BotUe 10. — Strabane to KiUyhegs,
Ireland.
property. "In an adjacent island,
8 men were concerned in one horse ;
but the poor brute was rendered use-
less, as the unfortunate foot of the
supernumerary long remained unshod,
none of them being willing to ac-
knowledge its dependency, and ac-
cordingly it became quite lame.
There were many rows on the
subject ; at length one of the ' Com-
pany* came to the mainland and
called on a magistrate for advice,
stating that the animal was entirely
useless now ; that he had not only kept
up decently his one hoof at his own
expense, but had shod this 4th foot
twice to boot." — Foots from Gweedore.
With much perseverance and many
struggles. Lord George Hill gradually
changed the &ce of things. Though
not without meeting a fearful amount
of prejudice and opposition, he
overcame and altered ihe Rundale
system, improved the land, built
schools, a di., and a large store at
Bunbeg, made roads, esteblished a
post-office, and, what is perhaps of
more importance to the tourist, an
hotel, which is comfortable, well-
managed, and reasonable. This is
a capital place both for the fisher-
man and the general visitor; the
latter should by all means make
an excursion to Arrigal, taking a car
to the foot of tiie mountain, which
can be ascended in about 2 hrs.
"Midway up there is an immense
belt of broken stones, unrelieved by a
vestige of vegetation. The mountain
narrows towards tbe top to a mere
rugged path of & few inches in width,
with an awful abyss on either side.*'
The view from the summit is mag-
nificent, extending over a perfect sea
of mountains, as &,r as Knocklayde,
near Ballycastle, in the county An-
trim, and Benbulben and Bengore
near Sligo, while the whole coast
for miles lies at one's feet. The
fishing on the Olady and the fresh-
water loughs is very good. If to-
lerably late in the season he will got
flea-trout and some salmon ; " almost
any flies will do, something with red
or black hackle, and a mixture with
hare's ear in it"
The geology of Donegal consists
mainly of gneiss and mica-slate, tra-
versed in a N.E. direction by an axis
of granite, containing the mineral
called oligoclase, whose occurrence in
Great Britain has been lately noticed.
The investigations of Prof. Haugh-
ton and Mr. Scott show a close rela-
tion between the granites of Norway
and DonegaL
Distances. — Dunglow, 13 m. ; Dun-
&naghy, 17 ; Bunb^, 4 ; Dunlewy, 4 ;
Cross Beads, 10 ; Magheraclogher, 5.
Conveyances. — A mail-car daily to
Dunfanaghy and Letterkenny.
Excursions.^^
1. Arrigal.
2. Dunlewy and Slieve Snaghi
3. Bunbeg.
From Gweedore the road lies
through a wild and desolate district,
broken here and there by a few
scattered hamlets with their little
patches of green conspicuous in the
grey mountain scenery. Inland the
lofty ranges occasionally peer over
the moorlands, while seaward the
view is broken by numberless inlets
and creeks,beyond which the breakers
are seen dashing over the cliffs of the
numerous islands that dot the coast
in such profusion in this district,
which is Imown as the Bosses. The
principal of these islands, generally
inhabited for a portion of the year
only, are Inishfree, Owey, Gula, and
Cruit
At 48J m. the Gweedore river is
crossed at a spot where a comlana-
tion of rock and waterfall ofiers charm-
ing scenery; and at 51^ m. is the
creek of the Anagarry stream, en-
livened by a police-barrack. On the
coast at Mulladergh, near Anagarry,
is a rock known as Spanish Bock, from
the occurrence of a wreck of a Spanish
vessel, supposed to have belonged to
the Armada. Within the memory of
inhabitants of the parish, a number of
well-finished brass guns were fished
Ireland.
Boute 10. — Dunglow.
91
up, but unfortunately got into the
hands of some travelling tinkers, by
whose advice they were speedily
broken up and sold to themselves, of
course at a &bulous profit.
[56 m. rt. a road branches oflf to
Roshin Lodge, the residence of Mrs.
Forster. Close off the coast is Rut-
Icmd IsUmdy where, during the Lord
Lieutenancy of the Duke of Rut-
land in 1785, 40,0002. was expended
in making a military station and
general emporium for this part of the
country. The sand has now almost
entirely buried the costly enterprise
in obUvion. At Burton Port, near
Boshin, the Marquis of Conyngham,
the proprietor of this estate, has
built a large grain-store.
A conspicuous feature in this
scenery is Aran Island, which must
not be confounded with those of
the same name off the coast of
Gkdway. It is of considerable size,
but contains nothing of interest, save
Bome fine cliff and cave scenery .3
2 m. N. of Burton Port is the iso-
lated ruin of Dunglow Castle, after-
wards called Castle Port.
58 m. Dunglow, a dreary-looking
village on the side of a hiU which
rises rather sharply from the water's
side. The inn is very poor ; but a
oar can be obtained. Between 3 and
4 m. S.W. of Dunglow is the head-
land of Crohy, which the tourist
should visit; for, though it is no
great height (800 ft.), it affords an
admirable and curious view over
the district of Templecrone, with its
numberless lakes and inlets. On the
coast to the S.W. overlooking Gwee-
barra Bay is a singular landslip, called
by the inhabitants " ThoUa Brietha "
(U'oken earth). "The rocks seem
to have been snaken and shivered to
pieces — in fact, macadamized on a pro-
digious scale, and present an awfully
slutttered appearance. The chasm
varies in its dimensions, the greatest
gash being 12 ft. wide above and
upwards of 25 deep : at some places
the edges accurately correspond and
are serrated.'* — Donegal Tourist,
There are also numerous Oaves and
natural arches all round this bit
of coast. In the open loughs near
Dunglow are quantities of fi»e yellow
trout rising up tp 5 lbs. The best
sport is tbund in the Meenmore
Lough, 2 m. to the N.W., near the
old barracks. There are also lots of
wild fowl and seal shooting to be
had. At Louah Anure, 4 m. N.E.,
there is work ror the geologist. " The
environs consist of mica slate with
coarse granular dolomite : on one
spot will be found basilar idiocrase
and epidote crystallized in 6-sided
prisms, with common garnet of a
reddish-brown colour." — Giesecke.
Distances. — Letterkenny, 58 m. ;
Doocharry Bridge, 8 ; Glenties, 18 ;
Gweedore, 13.
For the next 7 or 8 m. the way
lies through an untameably wild
country, but witii such constant and
shifting panoramas of mountains that
the attention is never fatigued. The
ranges, at the base of which the road
is carried, are those of the Crohy
lulls, with their numerous shoulders
and outliers. Farther back are the
Dunlewy Mountains, Slievesnacht,
Crockatarrive, Arrigetl, and, as we
get further 8., the Glendowan and
Derryveagh chains. In fact, if the
weather is fine — and it all depends
on that — there is scarce such another
mountain view in the kingdom. 67 m ,
at the brow of a steep hill, the tra-
veller all at once looks over the deep
glen of tiie Gweebarra river and up
the Owenwee, until it is lost in the
heights of the Glendowan Mountains.
A road runs up the pass, through
Derryveagh and emerges at Glen-
veagh Bridge (p. 88). The view, as
the tourist descends the zigzag road,
is of a very high order, and assumes
an additional diarm.in contrast with
the dreary moor that he has been tra-
versing. The Gweebarra is crossed at
Doocharry Bridge, where there are a
police-bairack and a fishing-station,
but no inn, which is a pity, for the
92
BoiUe 10. — Strcibane to Killyhegs,
Irfxand.
stages are long and fatiguing, and the
scenery in the neighbourhood would
be quite sufficient to attract visitors.
The Gweebarra is a fine salmon
fishery, and belongs to Mr. Daniel of
Donegal. The distance fi-om Doo-
charry to Glenveagh Bridge is 11 m.
A road runs across the hills to join
the Fintown road, but a new one
keeping along the S. bank of the
Gweebarra, which soon opens into a
noble estuary, is easier and more
generally followed. In about 3 m.
it leaves the river and ascends the
hills again, joining the Fintown and
Donegal road at or near the 74th m.
Near this point a short road from
Dunglow falls in, but it is im-
practicable for cars, on account of
the necessity of crossing the Gwee-
barra at Ballynacarrick Ferry. There
is a fine view, looking back over
Crohy headland and the country
toward Dunglow, while an equally
fine one opens forward over the ranges
of hiUs that intervene between the
traveller and Donegal. In front of
him, although, from the turnings of
the road, it is difficult to keep one's
bearings, are Knockrawer (1475 ft.),
Aghla (1953), and Scraigs (1406), at
the foot of which lie the mountain
lough of Finn and the village of Fin-
tovm (Rte. 8), in which disMcf some
lead-mines are now being worked.
From the junction of the 2 roads the
distance to Fintown is 6 m., and to
Stranorlar 22 m. The watershed has
now been reached, and the road
rapidly descends a broad mountain
vale to
77 m. Glenties {Inn: Devitt's),
a small town, the situation of
which, at the numerous converging
glens, is its best point. It has a
grand-looking union-house, which
adds much to the distant beauty of
the place. Qood fishing is to be
obtained here either in Qie Shallo-
gan river, down whose vale we have
been descending, or the Owenea,
which rises in Lough Ea, a tarn
some 7 m. in the mountains to the
W. It is preserved by Lord Mount-
charles and Col. Whyte. " The angler
in the latter river will have sport if
he is on at the time of a spate, but,
as it rises and falls very quickly, it
would be hardly worth his while to
go there on a chance."
Distances.— Ardara, 6 m. ; Naran,
8 J ; Doocharry, 10 ; Dunglow by the
ferry, 14; KiUybegs, 14; Donegal,
18.
pf the tourist is not pressed for
time, he may go on to Ardara by
Naran, instead of by the direct road.
For the first few miles the way lies
at the foot of the hills, afifording fine
views of Gweebarra Bay. 8 J m.
Naran, is a primitive little fishing-
village, pleasantly situated opposite
the island of Inishkeel, on which the
antiquary will find a couple of ruined
churches. The hills wMch rise just
behind the village should be ascended
for the sake of the magnificent view,
particularly in the direction of Ar-
dara, where the coast-scenery of the
cliffs is of the highest order. The
whole of the promontory between
Naran and Ards^ is worth exploring
for the sake of the remains. On
Dunmore Hill, a headland 1 m. to
the W., there are 10 old forts. " It
was probably the grand signal-station,
so mat a signal made there would
alarm the rest." To the S. of Naran
is Laugh Doon, in which there is an
island, containing the "Bawan," a
round fort, a massive circular build-
ing, which occupies the whole of the
area. In former years, before the lake
was partially drained, it appeared as
if it was actually built out of the
water. Close by is Lou^h Birro^e,
on which is another similar remam.
About 1 m. to the S.W. is Kiltooris
Lough, on the banks of which is
Eden House, the residence of G.
Hamilton, Esq. A rather large island
rises from the centre, on which are
the scanty ruins of a castle belonging
to the O'Boyles. From Naran to
Ardara the (hstance is 7 m. About
halfway at Kilclooney there is a
Ibeiand. Bottte 11. — Londonderry to Gtoeedore.
93
cromlech.] The direct road from
Glenties is carried over a more level
country than we have hitherto been
traversing. [At 79 m. 1. a road is
given off to Donegal, which fells into
the Killybegs and Donegal route
between Inver Bridge and Mount-
charles (Rte. 9).] Directly after-
wards it runs alongside of the Owen-
tocker river, which rises amongst
the heights of Binbane (1493 ft.),
and falls into an inlet of the sea
close by
83 m. Ar^ara (pronounced with
the accent on the last syllable) —
Hotel: MoUaney's, — a stupid little
town, with nothing whatever of in-
terest save its extremely pretty situa-
tion, at the wooded base of steeply es-
carped hills. A pedestrian who is
not particular about his accommoda-
tion will find it a very good starting-
point from whence to explore the
grand beauties of the coast round by
Loughros, Tormore, and Glen (Rte.
9). From the pecidiarity of the
situation of Ardara all the roads that
lead out of it— viz. to Inver, Killy-
b^, and Oarrick —are carried through
so many gaps in the hills, the finest
of them being that which goes
through the pass of Glengeask, one
of the wildest and steepest glens in
the district, in which the highest
point of the road (a very bad one) is
about 1000 ft Close to the town is
Woodhill, the residence of Major Nes-
bitt.
Distances. — Carrick, 13 m. ; Glen,
15 by road, but by coast about 17 ;
Killybegs, 10 ; Inver, 10.
From Ardara the tourist traverses
a wild mountain road, passing between
tlie heights of Altnandewon (1652
ft.), and Mulmosog (1157). 87 m. 1. is
Miilmosog House. Soon afterwards
the watershed is reached, and the
road descends the valley of the Oily
river to 93 m. Killybegs (Rte. 9).
Hotels : Rogers^s, Coane's ; both com-
fortable.
ROUTE 11.
FBOM LONDONDERRY TO GWEEDORE,
THROUGH DUNFANAGHY.
The most direct route lies through
Letterkenny, from whence a car starts
for Dunfenaghy and Gweedore every
morning ; but as the finest scenery of
this district principally Ues on the
coast, it will be better for the tourist
to proceed to Rathmelton, to which
there are 3 ways of going. 1. The
road from Londonderry foUows the 1.
bank of the Foyle, passing Foyle Hill,
at which point it branches off to the
rt., skirting a range of high ground, of
which Greenan Hill is the most ele-
vated point.
6 m. rt. are Portlough, a small
tarn, with an island and a ruined
tower, and Castle Forward (T. Fergu-
son, Esq.), situated at the comer of
Blanket Nook, a pill given off by
Lough Swilly, which is crossed by a
ferry as it begins to narrow at Fort
Stewart Ferry. On the opposite bank
are the seats of Fort Stewart (Sir
James Stewart, Bart.) and Shellfield
(N. Stewart, Esq.).
13 m. Rathmelton {Irms : Brown's ;
Coyle's).
2. Should the traveller prefer going
round all the way by the road, he
will turn off to the 1. at Newtown
Ouningham, and follow the E. bank
of the Swilly river to
12^ m. the village of Manor Oun-
ingham.
18 m. Letterkenny {Hotels Hegar-
ty's, comfortable) wiU be found in
Rte. 10.
The road from hence to Rathmelton
is very pretty, passing 1. Gortlee
(T. Patterson, Esq.); rt. Bam Hill
(Rev. J. Irwin), OoBtle Wray (Capt.
Mansfield), and Castle Grove (G.
Wood, Esq.).
Leaving on 1. the Glebe House,
the tourist reaches
94
Boute 11. — Londonderry to Chjoeedore. Ireland.
26 m. Bathmelton. 3. By rail to
Farland, from whence a steamer
runs across to Bathmelton.] As the
greater portion of the route from Let-
terkenny is over elevated ground, the
traveller gets beautiful views of the
hills in the neighbourhood of Inch
and Buncrana, on the opposite side
of the Lough. Bathmelton is prettily
situated on the Lannan, a picturesque
mountain stream that flows past KQ-
macrenan into Lough Fern, emerging
from it under the same name, only
a few yards from its point of entrance.
Like the Bann, it was at one time
famous for its pearls.
The principfd objects of interest near
Bathmelton are the ivy-covered ruins of
Fort Stewart, built at the commence-
ment of the 17th cent. ; the demesne
of Fort Stewart (Sir J. Stewart, Bart.)
facing the Ferry ; and a little higher
up, the ruins of Killydonnell Abbey,
a Franciscan monastery, founded in
the 16th cent, by an O'Donnell, and
a chapel of ease to the ecclesiastical
establishment of Kilmacrenan. By
an inquisition made by James I., it
was found that the revenues amounted
to the magnificent sum of 3s. There
is a legend about the bell of the
Abbey S Killydonnell, to the effect
that it was carried off by some ma-
rauders from Tyrone, who embarked
on the Lough with the bell in their
vessel. A storm arose, and the sacri-
legious robbers were drowned ; to
commemorate which act of retributive
justice, the beU is heard to ring once
every 7 years at midnight. A legend
with a similar finale is prevalent at
Tintagcl on the Cornish coast.
[From Bathmelton the tourist may
proceed to Kilmacrenan, and there
catch the car for Dunfanaghy, or
proceed by Gartan Lough to Dun-
lewy. The road to Kilmacrenan is
highly picturesque, and follows the
rapid mountain stream of the Lan-
nan, which is crossed at Tullyhall,
near Claragh (Mrs. Watt) and Bally-
aiT, the seat of Lord George Hill
(p. 86) J
Distances from Bathmelton. — Let-
terkenny, 8 m. ; Derry, 13 ; Fort Stew-
art Ferry, 3 ; Bathmullan, 6 J ; Kil-
macrenan, 6i ; Milford, 4 ; Elilly-
donnell, 4.
Excursions. —
1. Bathmullan.
2. Milford.
3. Eolmacrenan.
The road to Bathmullan runs
alongside the estuary of the Lannan,
and the W. shore of Lough Swilly,
and about half-way crosses the em-
bouchure of the Glenalla river that
rises in the high grounds between
the Lough and Mulroy Bay, and
flows past Glenalla House (T. Hart,
Esq.) and woods,' which are very
pretty features in the landscape.
Further down are the woods of HoUy-
mount, and
19J m. the little town of Raih-
muUan. (Inn, Henderson's, good).
" Close to it are the ruins of a priory of
Carmehte friars, and a castle adjoining,
formerly occupied by the M*Swyne
Faugh, the possessor of Fanait. The
eastern part, used as a ch. until a
late period, exhibits considerable
traces of pointed Gothic architecture.
Over the E. window there still re-
mains a figure of St. Patrick. The
architecture of the remainder of the
building is of the Elizabethan age, a
great part of it having been rebuilt
by Bishop Knox, cf the diocese of
Beiphoe, in 1618, on obtaining pos-
session of the manor of Bathmullan
from Turlpgh Oge M'Swyne." — Lord
G. Hill. In l£e churchyard is a
monument to the memory of the
Hon. W. Pakenham, Captain of the
* Saldanha,* wrecked off this coast in
1811.
Bathmullan occupies a shelt^^d
position at the foot of a range of hills
that intervene between Lough Swilly
and Mulroy Bay, of which the highest
point is Crochanaffrin, 1137 ft. It is
worth while making an excursion
either up this hill or Croaghan, 1010
ft, which is nearer ; for the extra-
ordinary view over the inlets and in-
Ireland.
Boute 11. — Fofiet — Milford.
95
dentations of this singular coast will
put the traveller more in mind
of Norwegian fiords than British
scenery.
[Before leaving Rathmullan for
Milford, the tourist who is fond of
wild coast scenery should take the
opportunity of exploring the penin-
sula of Fanet or Fanait, the ancient
property of " the sept of the O'Bres-
lans, descendants of Conaing, 3rd son
of Conaill Gulban, son of Nial of the
9 hostages, who possessed Tir Con-
nell." The O'Breslans, however,
were succeeded by the M*Swynes,
who established themselves and built
several fortresses. Physically speak-
ing, Fanet is intersected by 3 short
ranges of hills running across the
peninsula, viz., the Kathmullan range
just mentioned ; the Knockalla Hilk,
which attain a height of 1200 ft. ;
and a still more northerly group,
about 800 ft.
A good road runs along the shore
of Lough Swilly as fi^r as Knockalla
Battery, but as the Knockalla Hills
here intervene, rising precipitously
from the water, the traveller by car
will be obliged to return and make a
detour. Of course this does not apply
to the pedestrian. This road is worth
the drive, both for the sake of the
rock scenery on the W., and the dis-
tant hills on the £. or Buncrana
side, comprising the district of Inish-
owen. It passes Bathmullan House,
the charming seat of T. Batt, Esq. ;
Fort Royal (late Capt. Wray) ; and
Kinnegar Strand; succeeding which
there is some good rock scenery ex-
tending up to Lamb's Head Bay, and
from thence to Knockalla Battery.
Near Lamb's Head Bay, at a village
called Dnunhallagh, is a tolerably
perfect " giant's bed," formed of
large flat stones placed on their edge.
The car-road to Fanait runs right
across the peninsula to the shores of
Mulroy Water, and keeps the E. bank
of that beautiftd estuary, skirting the
base of the Knockalla Hills.
10 m. on the shore of one of the
narrow inlets of Mulroy is the tower
of Moross Castle, the most im-
portant of the fortresses of the
M'Swynes. Near this point the main
road again crosses the peninsula, be-
tween the 2 northerly ranges of hills,
reappears cm Lough Swilly at Bal-
lymastocker Bay, the scene of the
wreck of the * Saldanha ' in 181 1, and
from thence skirts the coast to Doagh,
one of the most primitive native
villages that it is possible to conceive.
The coast scenery here is particularly
fine, especially at the Seven Arches,
a series of marine caves accessible by
land. Near the Brown George Bock
is a splendid natural arch, 80 ft. in
height.
18 m. Fanad Head is the extreme
westerly boundary of Lough Swilly,
the entrance of which between the
2 heads, Fanad and Dimaff, is just
4 m. This dangerous coast is pro-
tected at this point by a lighthouse,
90 ft. above high water, consisting of 9
lamps, showing a deep red seawards,
and a fixed white light towards the
harbour. Should the tourist be a
pedestrian, he should, instead of re-
turning by the same road, work his
way to the S.W., and cross one of the
narrow inlets of Mulroy by a ferry
between Leatbeg and Lower Town,
and thus proceed either to Glen,
through Carrickart, or Milford.]
7 m. Milford (Rte. 10), formerly
known by the euphonious name of
BaUynagolloglough, is most charm-
ingly pkced nearly equidistant from
the h^Eid of Mulroy Bay and Lough
Fern ; the latter a fine sheet of water
4 m. in circumference, and fed by the
Lannan. The scenery near Milford
is well worth exploring, particularly
on the Bunlin river, a small stream
that flows through a romantic glen
into Mulroy, forming in its course a
fine waterfell, known as the Goland
Loop.
Crossing Bunlin Bridge, the
road to Carrickart skirts closely the
W. shore of Mulroy, keeping on 1.
the group of hills tliat intervene near
96
Boute 11. — Londonderry to (hoeedore.
Ireland.
Lough Glen and Sheephayen. But
as tbe round is scarcely interesting
enough to warrant it, the tourist
should cut across by a mountain
road, and join the route from -Eilma-
orenan.
Glen is a small village at
the head of Glen Lough, a long
narrow sheet of water running
from N.E. to S.W., connected by a
short stream, called the Lackagh
river, with the Sheephaven, and
drained by the Owen C«rrow, which
runs hence to Glenveagh (Rte. lO"*.
The student of physical geography
cannot &ii to be struck with tiie pa-
rallel directions of the great valleys
of Donegal, together with their re-
spective lakes and streams, almost all,
without exception, from liie NJB. to
the S.W. It would seem as though
some tremendous force, acting from
the opposite dii-ection, had been ex-
erted simultaneously over the whole
district, and had probably been the
cause of the singular fiords which, it
will be noticed, always have the same
direction inland.
An excursion should be made from
Glen to visit Lough Salt, 3 m. to the
S., and on the road to Kilmacrenan
— one of the most peculiar and ro-
mantic localities in the country. It
is situated at the height of 1000 ft.
above the sea, and at the foot of
Lough Salt mountain, which rises
perpendicularly on the E. to a height
of 1546 ft. It is to this feet that it
owes its name— Lough-agus- Alt, " the
Lough and the Crag," being corrupted
into Lough Salt. "Ascending the
steep sides of the Kilmacrenan Moun-
tain, we at length reached the top of
the mountain, and suddenly turning
the point of a cliff that jutted out
and checked the road, we came
abruptly into a hollow something
like the crater of an extinct volcano,
which was filled almost entirely by a
lovely lake, on the rt. hand of which
rose the high peak of the moimtain —
so bare, so serrated, so tempest-worn,
so vexed at the storms of the Atlantic,
that, if matter could suffer, we might
suppose that this loftv and precipi-
tous peak presented the appearance
of material endurance. Here were
the brown heath, grey lichen, green
fern, and red crow's-bill; and then,
down the Heuoe of the cliff, from the
top to the water's edge, the black,
seared streak of a meteoric stone,
which had shattered itself against
the crest of the mountain, and rolled
down in fiery fragments into the
lake, was distinctiy visible.** — C,
Otway.
The lake is of the great depHi of
240 fb., and is said to be never frozen.
There is another tarn. Lough
Greenan, at a lower elevation on llie
W. side ,* and Lough Reclan, a still
smaller one, on the N., giving off a
streamlet that flows into Glen Lough.
The view looking S. to Kilmacrenan,
4 m. distant, is pretty, but not
to be compared to that extend-
ing (Ml the N. over Glen Lough and
Sheephaven, with its noble crags and
the olue waters of the Atlantic;
while to the "W. the srmmuts of the
Donegal Alps are visible in the lofty
crests of Muckish, Dooish, ana
Arrigal, with its cone-like top.
1^ m. the road crosses the Lack-
agh, and emerges on the sands
which form the head of Sheephaven.
To the N.E. they extend for a
long distance under the name of the
Campion and Bosapenna sands — the
latter reaching to beyond Carrickart.
Fifty years ago a baeiutifril residence
built by Lord Boyne existed at
Bosapenna, but it lias long been as
deeply overwhelmed by sand as the
ch. of Perranzabuloe in ComwalL
" A line of coast and country ex-
tends from the sea deep into the
land, exhibiting one wide waste of
red sand; for mUes not a blade of
grass, not a particle of bloom; but
hills and dales, and undulating
swells, smooth, solitary, desolate, re-
flecting the sun from their polished
sur&ce of one uniform hue. Fifty
years ago thiB line of coast was as
Irelanb. Boute 11. — Doe Castle — M'SiRyne^s Chin.
97
highly improved as the opposite
shore of Ards, and contained the
comfortable mansion of Lord Boyne,
an old-fashioned manorial house and
garden, with avenues and terraces,
surrounded with walled parks. But
now not a vestige of this is to be
seen— one common mountain of sand
covers all." — Sketches in Ireland.
The cause of all this mischief appears
to have been the carelessly per-
mitting the rabbits to gnaw the roots
of the tent grass {Arundo arenaria),
which, when protected, serves as a
sufficient guard against the incursion
of the sand.
Beyond Rosapenna, at Downing*s
Bay, there is one of the finest views in
Donegal, looking up and down Sheep-
haven, with the woods of Ards, and
the tower of Doe Castle — backed up
in the distance by the ponderous mass
of Muckish.
Before arriving at Creeslough, the
tourist should cross the Duntally,
and visit Doe Castle, a singular
stronghold of the M'Swynes, which
has been, to a certain extent, mo-
demised and rendered habitable by
the present owner. The prison will
be found in the dairy, which contains
the old gallows, with its beam fitted
with notches. The building as it at
present stands is surroupded by a
lawn, upon which some small cannons
are mounted. A little to the N., but
separated by a prolongation of the
marsh at the head of Sheephaven, is
Ards House (A. Stewart, Esq.), which,
with its extensive mansion, beautiftd
woods, and adjacent fiirm, is one of
the most desirable places in the N.
of Ireland. The views, however,
from this side the haven, are not so
diversified or pleasant as they are
from Rosapenna.
4 m. Creeslough is a poor little
village situated on the N.E. slope of
Muckish, "The Pig's Back" (Rte.
10), which raises its truncated mass
to a height of 2197 ft. Crossing the
Faymore river, the road turns north-
ward, having on 1. Sessiagh Lough,
[^Ireland,]
and on rt. Marble HiU, the seat
of G. Fitzgerald, Esq., which over-
looks a pretty bay near the entrance
of Sheephaven.
10 m. Dunfenaghy is a neat little
town with a very fair hotel, whence
the traveller can comfortably make
his excursions to the scenery of Horn
Head. On the way from Dimfanaghy
a narrow channel is crossed, through
which the tide rushes with great
rapidity, to Horn Head House, the
residence of Rev. C. Stewart.
1 m. to the W. in a direct line will
be found M'Swyne's Gim, concern-
ing which marvellous fables are told.
The coast here is very precipitous,
and perforated with caverns, one of
which, running in some distance, is
connected with the surface above by
a narrow orifice. Through this, in
rough weather, the sea dashes,
throwing up a volume of water, ac-
companied by a loud explosion or
boom, said to have been heard as far
as Derry I Such blow-holes are hot un-
common on the coast of South Wales
and Cornwall, although, of course,
the effects differ in proportion to the
scale of the phenomenon. A little to
the N.E. of this spot is a circular
castle. Horn Head is a projection
in shape somewhat resembling a
horn, bordered on one side by the
inlet of Sheephaven, though on the
other the coast trends away to the S.
The cliffs are 800 ft. in height, and
grandly precipitous. The view from
the summit of the head is one of
boundless Atlantic ocean, broken
only on the N.W. by the islands
of Inishbeg, Inishdoey, Inislibofin,
and Tory; and on the N.E. by the
different headlands of this rugged
coast, viz., Melmore, Rinmore, Fanad,
Dunaff, and Malin Heads, while on
the E. is seen in the distance thfe
little island of InishtrahuU, The
cliffs in many places are higher and
more romantic, but the view from
Horn Head is one per se, and should
not be omitted by the northern tra-
veller in Ireland. The student of
98
Boute 11. — Londonderry to Gweedore, Ireland.
Natural History will find plenty of
ornithological interest amongst the
various sea-birds that frequent these
clitFs, amongst which are the shell-
drake ( Tadorna vulpamer), the guil-
lamot ( Uria troile\ tne sea-parrot, the
cormorant, the shag {Phalocrocorax
graculus), the gannet, the stormy
petrel, the spoclded diver {Colyrnhtia
glacialis}^ and many others. The
distance from Dunfanaghy to the
signal tower is about 4 m.
Conveyances. — Car to Letterkenny
and to Gweedore daily.
Distances. — Letterkenny, 24 m. ;
Kilmacrenan, 17 ; Milford, 18; Glen,
10 ; Kathmullan, 25 ; Doe Castle, 8 ;
Ards, 6; Horn Head, 4; Cross
Eoads, 6 J ; Gweedore, 22.
Excursions. —
1. Tory Island.
2. Horn Head.
3. Falcarragh and Muckisb.
4. Doe and Ards.
[Should the tourist be adventurous
enough to visit Tory Island (anc.'Toir-
iuis), which lies some miles from
Horn Head, he should start on his ex-
pedition from Dunfanaghy. It is a
bleak and desolate island, although
containing some objeQts of interest;
and if tmdition is worth anything,
was considered important enough to
fight for in the early days, ** when
giants were in the land." The Book
of Ballymote states tliat it was pos-
sessed by the Fomorians, a race of
pirates and giants who inhabited
Ireland 12 centuries before the
Christian era. One of their niunber,
named Conaiag, erected a tower on
the island, as is recorded in the
Book of Leacan : —
^ "The Tower of the Island, the Island of the
Tower,
The citadel of Conahig, the son of Foebar."
It contains a portion of a round tower,
called Clog-teach, " The Bell-House,"
and tlie remains of a ruined castle,
together with a modem lighthouse,
the only token of tlie civilised world
on the island. The rock scenery of
its coast is very fine and character-
istic. " Some leagues out at sea, but
seeming within your gmsp, lay Tory
Island, rising out of the deep like a
castellated city, lofty towers, church
spires, battlements, batteries, and
bastions, apparently presented them-
selves, so stmngely varied and so fan-
tastically deceptive were its cliffs." — -
Otway. Porphyritic syenite appears
to be the geological structure.
The tourist must be prepared for
any emergencitts in the matter of
accommotlation, and, in case of rough
weatlier suddenly coming on, of un-
limited detention on the island.]
5^ m. the road runs rather inland,
and crosses the Ray river.
[6J m., at the village of Cross
Roads, or Falcarragh, a mountain-
road through Muckish Grap joins
the Dunlewy route. It follows the
glen of the Ray, and skirts the base
of Muckish.]
Adjoining Falcarragh is Bally-
connell House, the seat of Wybrants
Olphert, Etiq., in whose grounds is
a stone of some local notoriety, called
Clough-a-neely. In old Myrath ch.-
yard is the cross of St. Columbkill,
made of one piece of rock, said to
have been brought by St. Columb
from Muckish Mountain. Falcarragh
is a good point fi-om whence to ascend
Muckish 2190 ft., which wiU well
repay the trouble, though from its
steeply escarped sides it is no easy
work. " The geological structure
consists of a very thin slaty mica,
granular quartz, and silver white
mica. At the height of 500 ft. is an
extensive bed of white quartz sand
in very minute grains, which has
been exported to the glass-works of
Dumbarton, being considered an ex-
cellent material." — Giesecke.
A little further on, the Tullagho-
begly is crossed, as it descends &om
the Altan Lough, a savage tani
under the precipices of Arrigal (Rte.
10), the peak of which becomes a
prominent object on the E.
From hence to Gweedore there is
notldng to detain the tourist. The
Ireland. Itoute 12. — Londonderry to Belfast,
99
road runs over a desolate mountain-
district, keeping on rt. the Bl<x)dy
Foreland, the hill above which is
upwards of 1000 ft. As the coast is
again approached, the islands of
Inishsiner, Inishmeane, and Gola
are conspicuous.
18.J- m. Clady Bridge, or Bunbeg,
where there are a store, a ch., and
glebe-house, belonging to the Gwee-
dore property.
22 m. Gweedore Hotel (Rte. 10).
ROUTE 12.
FROM LONDONDERRY TO BELFAST,
BY THE NORTHERN COUNTIES RAIL-
WAY.
The Northern Counties Ely. crosses
the Foyle by the new bridge, and
keeps close to the brink of the water
for several miles, accompanied for
some distance by the pretty villas of
the Derry citizens.
5 m. Culmore. Here the Foyle
narrows, previous to the sudden -ex-
pansion known as Lough Foyle, which
in several places is 7 m. in breadth.
The fort of Culmore, a triangular
tower on the 1. of the rly., was built
in the IGth cent, by the O'Dohertys,
and afterwards kept up to secure
the possessions of the English at
Derry.
Crossing the estuary of the Fau-
ghan river, the line trends to the
N.E., following the curve of the bay
to
7.^ m. Fglinton. On rt. 2 m. are
the village of Muff, Foyle Park, and
Templemoyle Agricultural School,
occupying very pretty situations oh
the banks of t)ie Muff Glen. There
is a village of the same name on
the opposite side of the lough, which
must not be confounded with this
one. On either side, the mountain
scenery begins to assume larger
dimensions; on the 1. the hills of
Inishowen loom in the distance ; the
highest point being Slieve Snaght
2019 ft. between Buncrana and Mo-
vilTe. On the rt. an important chain
occupies the area between Derry and
Dungiven, where it joins another
and more marked group extending
northwards between Newtown Li-
mavaddy and Coleraine.
12 J m. Carrickhugh; on rt. is
Walworth Wood and House (Col.
Sampson).
13i m. BallyJcelly. This village is
the property of the Fishmongers'
Company, who in 1619 erectSi a
large fortified mansion.
15 m. Newtown Junction, Peading
to 2 m. rt. Newtouon Limavaddy
{Inn : Queen's Arms), which obtained
its name from Lim-an-madadh,
" Dog*s Leap," a glen on the banks
of which the O'Calians, the first
founders, erected a castle. Adjoin-
ing this a second was built, in 1608,
by Sir Thomas Phillips, forming the
nucleus of a village (Pop. 2732). It is
very beautifully situated in the valley
of the Roe, and at the foot of a group
of mountains, which are worth ex-
ploration by the geological tourist.
[Introd. p. xxvi.) On the E. are
Benyevenagh 1260 ft., and Keady
Mountain 1101 ft., while to the S.,
Donald's Hill 1318, and Craiggore,
are the most prominent. As far as
the town of Newtown Limavaddy is
concerned, there is little to detain
the visitor, but the valley of the Roe
may be followed up to Dungiven 9 m.,
and thence to Maghera or Drapers-
town, in which route the traveller
will meet with some very peculiar
and interesting scenery. In the im-
mediate neighbourhood of the town
F 2
100
Bouie 12. — Londonderry to Belfast Ireland.
are Drenagli House (0. M'Causland,
Esq.), Roe Park (Harvey Nicholson,
Esq.), Streeve, Hermitage, &c. The
Sperrin Hills run E. from Strabane
to Draperstown ; then turn rather
abruptly to the N. to Ooleraine, their
course being marked by the towns
of Maghera and Garvagh on the E.,
Dungiven and Newtown on the W.
Between these 2 places, however,
a minor chain runs in from London-
derry, interrupted only by the valley
of the Roe.
Exeursions, —
1. Dungiven.
2. Benyevenagh.
3. Keady.
Dungiven is in a charming situa-
tion at the confluence of the Roe
with the 2 rivers Owen Nagh and
Owen Beg, and at the foot of Ben-
bradagh, which rises to the height of
1490 ft. directly to the E. of the
town, and is cultivated nearly to its
summit. To the S. are the Sperrin
Mountains, the most lofty points of
which are Sawel 2240 ft., and Mul-
laghaneany 2070 ft. Dungiven con-
tains ruins of the Skinners' Com-
pany's Castle, or fortified bawn,
built in 1618, and also of an abbey,
picturesquely placed on a rock 200
ft. above the Roe. It has a nave
and chancel, the latter lighted by
two lancet windows deeply splayed
within, with a mitre on each side,
the whole being surrounded by a
blocked arch resting on corbels;
there is also a square-headed window
above. The nave is separated from
the chancel by a good circular arch
of apparently Trans. Norm., and has
also in the N. side a circular-headed
doorway. The church has a belfry
at the S. angle of the W. front,
which formerly exhibited the features
of a round tower or cloictheach.
Notice under an elaborate Dec. arch
in the chancel the altar-tomb of Coo-
ey-na-gall, a chief of the O'Cahans.
It bears the effigy of a recumbent
knight, and tbe sides are sculptured
with armed figures. This abbey was
founded in 1100 by the O'Cahans, and,
having fallen to ruins, was restored
with great solemnity by the Arch-
bishop of Armagh. The clan of the
O'Cahans held their territory under
the O'Neills, "and, being of the
greatest authority in these parts, had
the honour of throwing the shoe
over the bead of O Neill when chosen,
according to the barbarous ceremony
then practised upon some high hiU
in the open air.' — Gibson. Close to
the town is Pellipar House (J. Ogilby,
Esq.). The road to Draperstown
runs over very elevated ground to
the base of the White Mountain, in
which is the source of the Roe, and
then emerges through* the romantic
pass of Evishgore. The schist rocks
in the neighbourhood of Dungiven
are famous for their quartz crystals,
called Dungiven diamonds, many of
which are found of great size. The
old ch. of Banagher, nearly 3 m.
S.W. of the village, should be
visited for the sake of its doorway,
which is square-headed, and has
inclined sides, somewhat resembling
the one at Glendalough (Rte. 24).
In the ch-yard is the tomb of St.
Muiredach O'Heney, on which a
curious relievo of the saint is
depicted outside. Dr. Petrie con-
siders it to date from the latter
part of the 11th cent. " There
is a custom in this neighbour-
hood which testifies the supersti-
tious respect in which this monu-
ment is still held. In any horse-race,
if a handful of the sand adjacent to
the tomb be thrown upon the horse
as it passes, it is thought that it will
ensure success in the race." — Doyle.
A similar early tomb is found at
Bovevagh ch., between Dungiven
and Newton. It is faced with sand-
stone, though it is minus the like-
ness of the saint.
Conveyances from Dungiven. — Car
to Derry.
Distances. — Draperstown, 12 m. ;
N. Limavaddy, 9; Maghera, 13;
Deny, 19.]
Ikeland. Boute 12. — MacGilligan — Coleraine,
20 m. at Bellarena is a marine
residence of Sir F. Heygate, Bart.,
at the mouth of the Boe and
the foot of the mountain of Benye-
venagh 1260 ft.. *• the face of which
is enoumberea by ponderous and
shapeless masses, rising in succes-
sive stages to the base of the steep
basaltic summit, and then breaking
into pinnacles and precipitous cliffs.
Standing on one of these and looking
along the £a<ce of the mountain, the
successive lines of rudely-formed
hillocks, the basaltic face they pre-
sent to the great mountain pre-
cipices, and the various beds of
basalt and ochre which occur in
earth, together with the isolated
pinnacles which yet remain on some
of them, explain the nature of these
vast landslips and this magnificent
undercliff." — Portlock. The geologist
will perceive that the general com-
position of these masses of hill is
chalk, capped by conglomerate and
basalt, ahd resting on liassic or
oolitic clays and shales. A little
further on at MdcGriUigan the line
approaches very closely to the es-
carped rocks, which contain nume-
rous caves, attesting the loTig-con-
tinued and destructive action of the
sea. Both this latter locality and
Down Hill 26 m. are romantic in
the extreme, and during the siunmer
season attract large nmnbers of holi-
day-makers from Derry for the pur-
poses of bathing and picnic celebra-
tions. "A singular combination of
picturesque beauty and grandeur
presents itself at MacGiiligan. Here
the cliffs, everywhere striking, in-
crease in altitude, and the pastoral
banks which they cap are here much
more varied by verdant knolls, sylvan
dells, and terraced platforms. High
on one of the latter, with several
cottages, stands the ch, of MacGiili-
gan, one of the most singularly and
romantically situated of all our sacred
edifices." — Eraser. Both Mac Gilli-
gan a id Benyevenagh are good bo-
tanizing fields, yielding amongst
101
others — Botrychium limaria, Ajuga
alpina, Orobanche rubra, Hieracium
murorum, H. Ijawsoui, Dryas octo-
petala, Saxifraga oppositofolia, Are-
naria vema, Draba inctuia, Ranuncu-
lus hirsutus. Looking across the estu-
ary of the Foyle are the mountains
forming the promontory of Inishowen
Head. MacGiiligan is interesting
to scientific men, as being the base-
line on which the Trigonometrical
Survey of Ireland was laid down
in 1826. At Down Hill the rly,
pierces the chalk by a longish tun-
nel. The effects produced by the
disruption of strata are even more
peculiar than at MacGiUigan, and
show themselves in the form of
isolated pinnacles and caves, the
largest of which, called the Piper's
Cave, is about 110 ft. in lengtli. The
geologist should also visit the Gap
of Camowry, " which terminates in u
very beautiful fall, formed of suc-
cessive cascades, where the ochi'eous
conglomerate and basalt are seen in
contact. The basalt penetrates as a
vein into the conglomerate, and small
fragments of flints are found in an
amygdaloid, as at Ballycastle (Rte.
13), inilicating important chemical
and mechanical changes.*' — Port^
lock. At Down Hill was the seat of
Sir Hervey Bruce, built by the
eccentric Earl of Bristol, and famous
for its library and picture-gallerit s,
which were unfortunately destroyed
by fire, including the sculpture of Boy
and Dolphin, by Michael Angelo.
The line now runs close to the
Bann, which is crossed by a long
and peculiarly light bridge at
33 m. Coleraine^ pronounced Coole-
raine (anc. Cual-rathaine) {Hotel t
M'Grotty's) (Rte. 13 , dates its im-
portance from the reign of James I.,
who granted the whole of this dis-
trict to the London Companies. They,
however, did not trouble themselves
much about its sanitary arrange-
ments, if we are to believe the state-
ment of Pynnar in 1618, "that part
of the town is so dirty that no man
102
Boiite 12. — Londonderry to Belfast.
Ireland.
is able to go into it, especially what is
called the market-place." Coleraine
is now a clean, busy place, largely
connected with the linen trade, and
well situated on the Bann, which
is crossed by a bridge connecting
the suburb of Waterside with the
main portions of the town (Pop. 5631 ).
There are extensive siilmon fisheries
at the Crannagh, near the mouth of
the river, and again higher up at the
Cutty, where there is a fall of 13 ft.,
and consequently a salmon-leap. In
former days Coleraine possessed a
priory, monastery, and castle, all of
which have disappeared, but on
Mount Sandel, 1 m. S.E., there is a
very large rath 200 ft. high, and sur-
rounded by a dry fosse. It is men-
tioned in the * Annals of the Four
Masters ' as having been built in
1197, and is supposed to have been
the site of De Courcey's castle. In
the immediate neighbourhood are
Jackson Hall and Somerset (H. K.
Richardson, Esq.), both of them situ-
ated on the banks of the river.
Though the Bann is here tidal,
and Coleraine a seaport, there is at
its mouth a bar, causing so much ob-
struction that the real harbour may
be said to be at Portrush (Rte 13).
Conveyances. — Rail to Derry, Port-
rush, and Belfast. Car to Bush-
mills ; also to Kilrea.
Distances. — Portstewart, 3 J m. ;
Portrush, 6 J ; Ballymoney, 8 ; Mac
Gilligan, 10 ; Newtown l^mavaddy,
21 ; Bushmills, 8.
The rail now follows up the rt.
bank of the Bann, quiting it at
41 m. BaUymoney, wliich is ^n
industrious town extensively con-
cerned in the sales of '• Coleraines "
and other linens, but does not possess
much to interest the general tourist.
Conveyances to Ballycastle, 17 m.
distant (Rte. 13). At Dunloy, 49 m.
the line is carried between 2 hills
about 400 ft. respectively, and has
on 1. 3 m. Lissanoure Castle, the seat
of G. Macartney, Esq. Some 3 m.
W. of Dunloy, in the picturesque
mountain district known as the
Craigs, is the interesting cromlech
of the Broadstone, of which the in-
cumbent stone is 10 ft. in length, and
rests partially upon 2 supporters, the
others having fallen. We then cross
the watershed, and follow the Main
river, a small stream flowing due. S.
into Lough Neagh, to
62 m. Bally mena {Hotel: Adare
Arms), next to Coleraine the most
important town in the district,
which, since the introduction of the
linen trade in 1733, has largely in-
creased in population. It is said that
the sale of brown linens alone averages
1,000,000Z. yearly. It Is a well-built
and well-to-do town of some 8000
Inhab., situated on the Braid, which
soon joins the Main.
About li m. to the W. are Galgorm
Castle, formerly a seat of the Earls
of Mountcashel, and now of J.
Young, Esq., and Grace Hill, a Mo-
ravian settlement, founded in 1746.
Conveyances. — Rly. to Belfast. Car
to Kilrea.
Distances. — Maghera, 18 m. ; Port
Glenone, 9.
The line again runs side by side
with the Main to
70 m. Cookstown Junction. [From
hence a branch rly. runs W. to
Cookstown, passing
3 m. Randalstown, a pleasant little
business town on the Main, which is
crossed by a bridge of 9 arches. It
suffered considerable damage from
the hands of the insurgents in 1798.
The church is E. Eng., with an oc-
tagonal spire. The principal object
of interest, however, is the beautiful
demesne of Shanes Castle (late Vis-
count O'Neill), which stretches from
the town to and along the shores of
Lough Neagh for a distance of 3 m.
The Main flows through the grounds,
and is crossed by an ornamental
bridge, connecting them with the
Beer-park, which is of considerable
extent. The former mansion was
utterly destroyed by fire in 1816,
Ireland. Bouie 12. — BandaUtown — Coohstown.
103
when nothing was saved but the
family papers. At present a por-
tion of the stables has been con-
verted into a residence, all that
is left of the castle being some
ruined towers and the fortified espla-
nade, upon which is a conservatory.
The. present representative of this
once princely family, which claimed
sovereignty over all the chiefs of
Ulster- is the Rev. WilUam O'Neill,
who assumed the surname and arms
by the will of the late Earl. The
tourist can visit the tomb of one
of the O'Neills, in the private burial-
ground near the castle. The geolo-
gist will find traces of columnar
basaltic formation at the ^ack of
the gardens.
From Randalstown the rly. sweeps
along the northern bank of the lough,
approaching it very closely at 11 m.
iToome, where the Bann is crossed
as it emerges from the lake, by a
viaduct, as also by a bridge of 9'
arches carrying the turnpike road.
At Toome are the stables of a
castle built by Lord Conway in
the 17th cent. The river flows due
N. for 1^ m., and then expands into
a small sheet of water tnown as
Lough Beg. As the Bann is the
only river carrying away the waters
of Lough Neagh, which is supplied
by 10 or 12 streams, it is not a
matter of much wonder that the
surrounding shores are very subject
to inimdations, though they have
been considerably chucked by the
operations of the Drainage Commis-
sioners. This has been effected by
lowering the Lough to its summer
level, widening the lower basin,
and forming a canal near the castle
at Coleraine.
16 m. Castle Dawson^ a small town
possessed by the Dawson family since
1633, whose seat, Moyola Park,
adjoins the town on the banks of
the river of the same name. The
eccentric Earl of Bristol erected an
obplisk to commemorate the virtues
of this family.
About 8 m. higher up the Moyola
is Maghera, fonnerly a place of some
antiquity, though now a quiet, linen-
bleacliing little town, pleasantly
situated at the base of the S.E.
corner of the Sperrin mountains,
which run hither from Strabane and
turn suddenly to the N. to Coleraine,
Carntogher 1521 ft., Wliite Mountain
996, and Muinard 2064, are the
principal heights. It is a fine moun-
tain walk of 13 m. from Maghera to
Dungiven (p. 100) through the pass of
Glenshane. The old ch. contains
over the W. door a rude sculpture of
the Crucifixion, and in the ch.-yard
is the tomb of Lenri, in whose grave,
when opened some years since, a
silver crucifix was found. The ar-
chaeologist will also find several
good raths in the neighbourhood.
19 m. Magharafelt ( Hotel : M'Fall's)
is a linen town, belonging to the
Salters' Company. The scenery on
the W. is rather striking, the Slieve
Gullion Mountains rising to the
height of 1700 ft. A 2nd road leads
from Mngharafelt to Dungiven
through Draperstown, near which is
Derrynoyd (R. Babington, Esq.).
25 m. Moneymore i^Inn: Drapers*
Arms), the property of the Dra-
pers' Company, who have laid
out large sums in the improve-
ment of the place. Unfortunately, in
the process the ancient castle was
taken away to make room for a
public-house, a circumstance to be
regretted the more, as it is described
by Pynnar as having been one of
the most perfect in Ireland. Spring
Hill is the residence of W. L. Conyng-
ham, Esq. ; the mansion is between
200 and 300 years old. The termi-
nus of the branch line is reached
at
30 m. Coolcstown (Hotel : Impe-
rial), a pretty, thougli singularly
built place of one street, more than
a mile in length. The pleasant
aspect of the town is enhanced by
the proximity of Killymoon, formerly
the residence of the family of Stew-
104
Bouie 12. — Londonderry to Belfast
Ieelaxd.
art, the proprietors and founders of
Cookstown. The house was built
l)y Nash m the castellated style. At
Derryloran the antiquary will find
ruins of an old ch., and at Loughiy,
2 m. to the S., a cromlech.
At Ardbo on the shores of Lough
Neagh, about 6 m. from Cookstown,
are the ruins (of very rude work) of
the Abbey of St. Kieran ; and close by
stands a large sculptured cross, the
figures of wliich are much weathered.
Conveyances. — Car to Stewarts-
town, also to Dungannon.
Distances. — Dungannon, 10 J m. ;
Stewartstown, 6.]
From the Cookstown Junction
the main line keeps in sight of
the lough to
73 m. the county town of
Atttrim (anc. Auntruibh), situated
on the banks of the Six Mile
Water as it joins the waters of
Lough Neagh {Hotel: Massareene
Arms) (Pop. 2800). Historically, An-
trim is known as the scene of a
battle in the reign of Edward III.
between the English and native
Irish, and again in 1798 of a fierce
engagement between the insurgents,
who had marched on the town
simultaneously from Belfast, Car-
rickfergus, Ballymena, and Shane's
Castle. So obstinate, however, was
the defence; that they retreated
with the loss of nearly 1000 men,
though the victory was deaiiy gained
by the detfith of Eari O'NeiU. It is
a well-built pleasant town, doing a
considerable trade in linen and paper
making. The principal building is
the church, which has a good tower
and an octagonal spire, but the
suburbs possess far greater attractions
than the town. Between the river and
the lake is Antrim Castle, the seat of
Lord Ferrard and Massareene. The
present building dates from 1662, and
IS approached by a Tudor gateway,
" the doors of which are cast iron,
and are opened from a room over-
head by means of machinery.*' The
front of the house £eicos the gate,
and is flanked by 2 square towers,
each in their turn finished off by
smaller round towers at the angles.
It is decorated with the feimily arms,
and medallions containing portraits
of Charles I. and II The principal
beauty of the place is in the gardens,
which are very well laid out, and
embellished with fishponds. Sir John
Clotworthy, the founder of the castle,
was granted a patent for budding
and repairing as many barks on the
lake as were needed for the king's
use. In connection with this sm-
gular right, a naval battle took place
in 1642 between the Irish garrison
at Charlemont and the amphibious
garrison of Antrim, " but the rebels,
being freshwater soldiers, were soon
forced on shore, and the victors,
pursuing their fortune, followed them
to the fort and forced them to sur-
render it, and in this expedition 60
rebels were slain, and as many
brought prisoners to Antrim."— iS7r
B. Cox.
About f m. N.E. of the town, in
the grounds of Steeple (G. J. Clarke,
Esq. \, is a very perfect round tower.
It is 95 ft. high, and 53 ft. in circum-
ference, and capped by a conical
block, put up in lieu of the oriofinal,
which was shattered by lightning.
The door is between 9 and 10 ft.
from the ground, facing the N.,
and is formed of single large stones
for the lintels outside and inside.
Between the 2 is fixed a large beam
of oak. The whole of the doorway
is constructed of blocks of coarse
grained basalt, and is but 4 ft. 4 in.
in height. It is also remarkable ** for
having a pierced cross within a circle,
sculptured in relievo on the stone
immediately over the lintel. Though
the foundation of the church of An-
trim is ascribed, perhaps erroneously,
to St. Mochaoi, a contemporary of
St. Patrick, the popular tradition
of the country gives the erection
of the town to the celebrated builder
Gobhan Saer, who flemished in the
7th cent."— Pe^r/e.
Ireland.
Boute 12. — Lotigh Neagh.
105
Conveyances from Antrim. — Rail
to Belfast and Coleraine.
Distances. — Shane's Castle, 3 m. ;
Carrickfergus, 15^ ; Belfast, 22 ; Ban-
dalstown, 5.
Excursions,
1. Bam Island.
2. Carrickfergus.
This would seem the proper
place for a brief description of
Lough Neagh (anc. Loch n'Eat-
harh), the largest lake in the British
Isles, being 20 m. in length, 12 in
breadth, 80 in circumference, and
embracing an area of 98,255 acres.
No less than 5 counties are washed
by its waters, which form an im-
portant item in the physical geo-
graphy and industi'ial resources of
this part of Ulster. Although 10
rivers contribute to swell its basin,
only one, the Bann, serves as an
escape ; to which circimistance may
be attributed the inundations of the
low shores, which frequently hap-
pened to such an extent before the
drainage improvements that 30,000
acres were often flooded. The lake
is about 45 ft. in the deep parts;
though from the soundings of Lieut.
Graves it appears to be 100 ft. in
some places. The difiference between
winter and summer level averages
about 6 ft It contains char, and the
Bpecies of trout known as gillaroo, also
the pullan or fresh-water herring
(Salmo lavaretus). Perhaps the
principal interest that attaches to
Lough Neagh arises from its great
size, as, from the absence of mountedn
scenery from its immediate neigh-
bourhood, it lacks a very important
feature common to lake districts.
" In the wliite sand on the shore very
hard and beautiful stones, known as
Lough Neagh pebbles, are found;
they are chiefly chalcedony, gene-
rally yellow, or varied with red,
susceptible of a fine polish, and much
valued for seals and necklaces." —
Lewis. The waters of this lake had
also the reputation of possessing
petrifying properties, from trees
having been found in this state at
various times ; but it has been con-
sidered by Gen. Portlock that they
belong to the tertiary formations,
from whence they have been washed
out. " The clays and sands, with
lignites, on Lough Neagh and Lougli
Beg, were of lacustrine origin, prov-
ing a former level of these lakes
from 10 to 30 ft. higher than the
present. The trunks and stems of
trees found in the clay must either
have been drifted and simk into the
soft mud, or have been silted up
with mud after their destmction,
which would imply a successive rise
and fell of the lake." The legend
of the buried city, which appertains
to almost every large lake in the
kingdom, is in full force on Lough
Neagh, and has obtained a world-
wide celebrity from its being the
subject of one of Moore's fevourile
ballads : —
" On Lough Neagh's banks, as the fisherman
sirays.
When the clear cold eve's declining,
He sees the Round Totters of other days,
In the wave beneath hhu shinhig."
It is singular that such a large
basin should contain so few island,
and none of any size. Bam Is-
land should be visited, on account
of the pretty cottage omee of the
late Earl O'Neill, and also for its
round tower, which is not in such
good preservation as the one at
Antrim. It is almost 43 ft. high,
and is lighted in the 2nd stoi-y
by a square-headed window facing
the S.E., and in the 3rd by one
facing the N. It is said, but upon
doubtful authority, that at low
water in summer, a bank connects
the island with Gattree Point, and
that it presents all the appearance
of a paved causeway.
From Antrim the rly. follows up
the Six Mile Water (the Ollarbha of
ancient Irish romance), passing on
either side Ballycraigy House,
Muckamore Abbey (Maj. Thomp-
son), and Upton Castle (Lord
F 3
106
BotUe 13. — Coleraine to Belfast
Ireland.
Templeton\ in the parish of
Templepatrick, wliicli is said to
possess not a single Roman Catholic.
88 m. Carriekfergus Junction (Rte.
13.)
90 m. White Abbey, so called from
a monastic establishment, founded
in the 13th cent. An E.E. ruined
chapel is all that remains.
Green Castle^ a suburb of Belfast,
takes its name from slight ruins of
a fortress.
The whole of the lino from the
junction to the terminus runs close
to Belfast Lough, and on the land
side is lined with a succession of
bleach-greens and the handsome re-
sidences of the Belfast merchants.
94| m. Belfast (Rte. 5) {Hoteh:
Imperial ; Royal ; Queen's ; Albion).
ROUTE 13.
FROM COLERAINE TO BELFAST, BY
PORTRUSH, THE GIANT'S CAUSE-
WAY, AND BALLYCASTLE.
The tourist should make a point of
following this route, which is known
as the Great Coast Road, for it in-
cludes in one excursion a large pro-
portion of the interest and beauty of
the north of Ireland, whilst the scien-
tific observer, and the geologist in
particular, have unlimited opportu-
nities of studying one of the most
singular basaltic districts in Europe.
A short branch rly. runs from
Coleraine to Portrush, passing 3| m.
1. the small watering-place of Port-
atewart {Hotel, Portstewart), situ-
ated so aa to conrtuand fine views
of the opposite promontory of Inish-
oweii. A wooden castle, built by
Mr. OHara, is happily placed on the
cliffs, wliich here terminate on the
W. of the great basaltic range, and
contain veins of zeolite, ochre, and
steatite. Adjoining the station is
Cromore, the seat of the Cromie
family.
6J m. Portrush {Hotels : Antrim
Arms, one of the best and mos-t
comfortable hotels in Ireland ; Cole-
man's) is a favourite spot, both from
its attractions as a marine residence
and its proximity to the Causeway.
A peninsula of basalt runs out for
f of a mile, and on this the town is
built, having a deep bay on either
side, and opposite it the picturesque
line of the Skerries, which forms a
very fine natund breakwater, in itself
a ^eat means of shelter to the har-
bour of Portrush. The town is small
though well built, and contains an
obelisk in memory of Dr. Adam
Clarke, to whose zealous efforts in
the cause of religion the inhabitants
of the district were much indebted.
The rock scenery, within five
minutes' walk of the hotel, is rugged
and picturesque, though the cliffs
rise to no great height. On the S.
side there are caverns in the white
limestone of the chalk formation.
Both clialk and lias strata have
undergone considerable metamorphio
action from their juxta-position to
the gneiss rocks, **a8 long grada-
tions of changes from the siUcious
chert-like strata, replete with organic
remains, to the highly crystalline
rock, may be here distinctly traced."
— Portlock. The indurated lias strata
of Portrush are identical with those of
McGilligan and Ballintoy. The fossil
collector will find Ammonites (sp.
intermedius and McDonnellii) Pecten,
Lima pectinoides, Panopiea elongata,
&c. {Introd., p. xxi.)
Conveyances. — Rail to Coleraine;
car to Bushmills; steamer weekly
to Glasgow and Oban.
2)/«iance«.— Coleraine, 6 J m. ; Port-
Ireland,
Boute 13. — I>unluce Castle,
107
Stewart, 3 ; Bushmills, 6^ ; Giant's
Causeway, 8| ; Bunluce Castle, 3J ;
Ballintoy, 15|.
Excursums. —
1. Portstewart.
2. Dunluce and Causeway.
Keeping to the rt. of the strand of
Portrush, the road soon gains a mag-
nificent terrace elevation at a great
height above the sea. The geologist
should by all means walk to the
Causeway, as he will thereby gain a
more minute opportunity of investi-
gation. The White Rocks occur
between the strand at Portrush and
Dunluce. ** Entering from the strand
an arch in the chalk and passing
through it, a deep hollow is ob-
served at the top of the chalk, which
is entirely filled by the massive over-
lying trap."
Between the points mentioned
the junction of the basalt with the
chalk may be well studied. It is
amorphous, and caps all the pro-
montories along the coast ; " the
surface of the chalk on which the
basalt rests being very uneven, and
in some places excavated into wide
and deep gullies, like the transverse
sections of 'river-coiu^es ; at others,
it presents bluffs or pointing head-
lands, against which the basalt has
flowed, and wliich it eventually com-
pletely overlays." — Du Noyer. A
section on the Portrush strand shows
— 1. amorphous basalt ; 2. layers of
drift-flints resting on the eroded sur-
face of the chalk proper. The action
of the sea has 'worn the cliffe into
most singular and fantastic shapes
and gullies, across one of which, the
Priest's Hole, the road is carried.
10 m. 1., overhanging a most pre-
cipitous cliff, are the picturesque
towers and gables of Dunluce CwsUe
(anc.Dun-lis), which as far as situation
goes is the most singular ruin in the
north. It is built on a projecting
rock, separated from the mainland
by a deep chasm, which is bridged
over by a single arch, 18 in. broad,
the only approach to the castle, and
one that is sufficiently dangerous and
unprotected for a nervous visitor.
Notwithstanding the great size of
the castle, a nearer inspection is
somewhat disappointing. The do-
mestic apartments and oflices ap-
pear to have been principally placed
on the mainland, while the build-
ing on the rock is occupied by a
small courtyard, a number of small
apartments, and some round flanking
towers overhanging the sea, into
which it is said a portion of the
castle really fell during a storm in
1639, when the Marchioness of Buck-
ingham was residing here. By whom
or when it was first erected is not
known, but the site was occupied by
a fortress of the McQuillans, who
possessed a large portion of this
northern district, until it was taken
from them by the M*Donnells (after-
wards Earls of Antrim), the repre-
sentative of whom was Sorley Boy, a
celebrated character of those days.
These possessors were in their turn
ousted by Sir John Pcrrott, Lord
Deputy, who occupied the castle by
an English garrison. The rock on
which it stands is basaltic (portions
of the building itself showing the
polygonal structure), and contains
large caves imdemeath, said to com-
municate with the building. It
should be mentioned, for the lovers
of Irish pedigree, tiiat Kory Oge
M'Quillan could trace his family from
their departure from Babylon 3000
years ago, whence they came to
Scotland, and from their name of
Chaldseans gave origin to the word
Caledonian 1
12i m. Bushmills {Hotels Imperial),
a neat little town on the banks of
the Bush, celebrated for its distillery
and its salmon fishery, the latter
being much in request among fisher-
men. Near the bridge in the bed
of the river some curved basaltic
columns are visible. Adjoining the
town is Dundarave, the beautiful
seat of Sir Edmund McNaghten,
whose family was akin to the
108
Bouie 13. — Colei'aine to Belfast.
Ibeland.
McDonnells, Earls of Antiim, and
Clime over to Ireland in the begin-
ning of the 17th centy.
14 J m. The approach to the Cause-
way Hotel (tolerable) is self-evident
from the numbers of guides and
others who lie in wait for the un-
suspecting traveller, and run by the
side of hirf car, proffering their ser-
vices or selling little boxes of fossils
and minerals. As regards the former,
the visitor had better avail himself
of the knowledge of the head guide,
Alexander Laverty by name, who
is intelligent and strictly conscien-
tious, being determined that nobody
intrusted to his care shall depart
\vithout listening to his lecture on the
formation of the Causeway. As to
the fossils, it may not be amiss to
mention that many of the speci-
mens offered for sale were never ob-
tained at the Causeway or even in the
neighbourhood. At the hotel the
visitor may obtain a tariff of prices
for guides, boats, &c., by which he
should strictly abide, and not allow
any annoyance from the multitude
of beggars, who, under pretence of
showing some special curiosity, pes-
ter everybody for money. Should
the day be calm enough, the first
point is to see the caves which lie
under the rocks a little to the N.W.
of the hotel. The principal and
most beautiful is Porthcoon, into
which a boat may be rowed for a
long distance. It is 350 ft. in length
and 45ft. in height; and although
there is an entrance landwards, the
wonderftil effects produced by the
colouring of the peroxide of iron and
the deep green of the water are to a
great extent lost to the visitor who
approaches it thus. The geologist
should notice a fiiult running through
the whole roof ; and to the west of
the cave a large whindyke. The
same phenomenon of intrusion of trap
may be seen at Dunkerry cave,
which is 660 ft. long and 96 ft.
high.
The 8rd cave, called Backsley,
cannot be entered, on account of
sunk rocks. After examining the
caves the visitor is rowed eastward
and landed on the Causeway ; the
first unpression of which is fre-
quently one of disappointment, aris-
ing perhaps from the overstrained
accounts written at different times
by older topographers. This feeling,
however, speedily yields to astonisli-
ment when we take into considera-
tion the immense scale on which all
the phenomena exist, and more
especially when we look minutely
into the extraordinary arrangement
of this pavement of nature. "The
basalt which forms the columnar
bed known as the * Giant's Cause-
way ' is quite a local deposit, measur-
ing at the most 2600 ft. in width, or
from E. to W., and appearing along
the coast as a lenticular-shaped bed,
thinning out at either side, and it
occupies a flattened trough in the
amorphous basalts which underlie
the great ochre-bed of the Chimney
Headland." — Bu Noyer. .
The columns on the E. slope to
the E., others to the W., thus show-
ing the direction of the longest axis
of the lava flow.
It consists of three platforms,
generally known as tlie Little, Mid-
dle, and Great Causeways, as they
are approached from tlie W. In
the Middle or Honeycomb Causeway,
the principal curiosity is the Lady's
Chair, a single hexagon pillar, sur-
rounded by several others of taller
proportions, so as to form a com-
fortable scat. Thence the Great
Causeway is entered tlirough the
Giant's Gateway, a gap bounded on
each side by basaltic columns. The
beauty and order of arrangement of
the pillars which form the pave-
ment are the main attraction of the
Great Causeway, and the guides take
care to impress on tlie visitor the
rarity of certain forms; that of 3-
sided pillars there is but one, and of
nonagons but 3 on the whole plat-
form, while pentagons and hexagons
Ireland.
Boute 13. — GuinCa Causeway,
109
are universal, and octagons, which
they denominate the key-stone, are
not so common. Each pillar will
bear looking into, being not only dis-
tinct from its neighbours with which
it is closely united, but, moreover,
containing within itself an arrange-
ment of small crystallizations radi-
ating from a common centre.
" The columns of this particular bed
appear to radiate from a line of
imaginary centres, which are coinci-
dent with the longest axis of the
flow ; the main circumference of
tliese radiations being defined by the
upper surface of the lava-bed, and
hence the upright planes of colum-
nar crystallization strike at right
angles downwards from what must
have been the primary cooUng sur-
face of the mass, that surface from
the first having been slightly de-
pressed in its centre." — Da Noyer.
Having examined the forms of the
columns and the various points of
interest, such as the Giant's Loom,
Wdl, Theatre, Pulpit, Bagpipes, &c.,
all of which the guides will take care
to notice, let us tako a comprehensive
view of the cliffs, which, after all,
form tile chief grandeur of the scene.
From W. to E., proceeding from the
hotel, or, still better, from the Porth-
coon Cave headland, we have the Bay
of Port-na-baw, Great Steucan Point
271 ft.. Wen: Snoot 283, Ardsnoot
307 (the latter overhanging the Cause-
way), the Bay of Portnoffer, the
Organ Columns, Seagull Island, Port-
noffer Point 327, the Chimney Head
320, Port-na-spania, Port-nacaillain,
the Nursing Child, Plaiskin Head,
Kenbane Head, Giant's Pulpit, Ben-
gore Head. This list will enable the
visitor to trace the various salient
points of the whole coast. Standing
on the Causeway, the attention is
principally attracted on the 1. by
the Chimney Headland, consisting of
2 thick beds of colmnuar basalt, a few
isolated columns of which suggested
the likeness to the chimney. These
fdl rest upon the great ochre-bed, a
very marked feature in the whole
section, and below this again con-
sist of possibly 4 deposits of amor-
phous basalt, each separated from the
others by a thin layer of ochre. At
Portnoffer Point to the W. of this, the
same arrangement prevails, though
the ochre-bed thins out and is nearer
to the sea. The columnar beds above
it now change their character, losing
their parallelism of deposition, as
well as distinct colimmar structure ;
the ochre-bed disappears, a deposit
of amorphous basalt takes its place,
and a new series of pillars are seen
below, called the Orp:an. The regu-
larity and beauty of these pillars,
which extend for about 200 ft., are
particularly conspicuous, and may
really be compared to the pipes of
an organ without any violent stretch
of imagination. The geologist must
particularly notice the inclination of
the Organ-bed to the W., and the dip
of from 6 to 8 degrees ; and sup-
posing it could be traced all the way,
it would eventually be found to be a
continuation of the Giant's Cause-
way, proving the identity of these 2
beds.
On the cliffs to the S. of Portnoffer
" the 2 columnar beds, which are so
distinct at the summit of the Chim-
ney Headland, are represented by not
less than possibly 4 separate deposits
of trap, the 2 lowest, which occupy
the central position of the cliff, being
rudely and massively columnar, and
separated from eacli other by a layer
of rather black shale." Overhanging
the causeway is the Ard Snoot, to
the W. of which is the Whindyke,
15 ft. thick. Proceeding W. to the
hotel, it will be perceived that the
ochre-bed is again visible by the
pathway, overlaid by the same amor-
phous trap which rests on the Organ-
bed. The whole of the coast, therefore,
is a cutting, transverse to the longest
axis of the lava flow. ^ The tourist
who wishes to go more at length into
the geology of the district should
consult a very able paper by Mr. Du
110
Boute 13. — Coleraine to Belfast,
Ireland.
Noyer, in the * Geologist,' vol. iii. No.
25, to which the writer of this notice
is much indebted. The foregoing de-
scription embraces the principal and
most curious features of the coast, but
nevertheless no visitor should neg-
lect to prolong his excursion to the
E. of the Chimney, as the finest coast
scenery in the north of Ireland oc-
curs at Pleaskin. Between these two
points is Port-na-Spania, so called
from the cliffs having been battered
by a Spanish vessel, under the im-
pression that they were fortifications.
From Fleaskin, which is 354 ft. in
height, the tourist has a magnificent
view eastward over Bengore and
Fairhead. " The summit is covered
with a thin grassy sod, under which
lies the basaltic rock, having gene-
rally a hard surface somewhat
cracked and shivered. At the depth
of 10 to 12 ft. from the summit this
rock begins to assume a cokimnar ten-
dency and forms a range of massive
pillars, standing perpendicular to the
horizon, and presenting the appear-
ance of a magnificent gallery or colon-
nade 60 ft. in length."— AiawiiZton's
Antrim. The seat so often occupied
by the author just quoted is still
pointed out by the guides. The fan-
tastic arrangements of the clife do
not end with Pleaskin, but are con-
tinued in the Lion's Head, Ken-
bane Head, the Twins (two isolated
rocks standing together), the Pulpit,
the Ball Alley, and the Giants'
Graves; beyond which the mighty
headland of Bengore closes the range
of excursions which more immediately
belong to the Causeway district.
Distances from the Hotel. — Bally-
castle, 12m.; Bushmills, 2 ; Ballintoy,
7 ; Carrick-a-rede, 8 ; Dunluce, 5.
As there is no public conveyance
from the Causeway, the traveller will
have to take a car, if he follows the
northern coast road, which cuts across
the promontory to
IT^m. Dunseverick (Dun Sovarke or
Sophairce— the fortress of Sophairce),
where on an insulated rock stand the
scanty ruins of a castle probably
erected by tiie McQuillans, a family
who arrived in Ireland among the
earliest English adventurers. It
afterwards came into possession of
the O'Cahans or O'Hares, who
settled in Antrim about the 13th
centy. Very little is left, though the
thickness of the walls (11 feet)
attests its former strength. The
views looking W. over Bengore
Head are very fine, as also those
over Fairhead to the E. The coast
is worth exploring as far as Ben-
gore, particularly at Portmoon and
Portagoona, where there is a pic-
turesque waterfall formed by the
small river Feigh. Soon after leav-
ing Dunseverick the road falls into
the high road from Portrush and
winds along the strand of White
Park Bay to
22 m. Ballintoy^ a small village
situated at the foot of the furzy
hill of Lannimore, 672 ft. The lias
rocks here seen are identical with
those of Portrush and McGilligan.
Lignite has also been occasionally
worked here. The coast aboimds in
fine views, particularly to the N.E.,
where the clifi's of Rathlin Island
are most conspicuous ; and further in
the horizon the Scotch coast in the
neighbourhood of the Mull of Can-
tire is plainly visible. Close off
shore is Sheep Island, and about 1
m. from the village is that of Car-
rick-a-rede, one of the most singular
curiosities of the north, on account of
the swinging bridge which connects
the island with the mainland. The
tourist who wishes for a closer inspec-
tion, or to cross over to the island,
should get a boy to show him the
way from Ballintoy, though a fine
distant view is obtained from the
road to Ballycastle.
Carrick-a-rede is an insulated
rock, separated from the mainland
by a chasm 60 ft. wide and more
than 80 ft. deep. "At this place
the salmon are intercepted in their
retreat to the rivers. The fishing
Ireland.
Boute 13. — Bally castle.
111
commences early in spring and con-
tinues till August ; a rude bridge of
ropes is tlirown across, which re-
mains during the season." — Lewis.
This bridge, which is protected by a
single rope rail, swings about in the
most uncomfortable manner, often-
times rendering it a dangerous feat
in stormy weather, save to the na-
tives, who cross it with the utmost
indiiference. The name is derived
by Mr. Hamilton from "Carrig-a-
• ramhadh," the rock in the road, on
account of the intercepting of the
salmon.
From here the way lies over a
hilly district, leaving to the 1. 1 m.
the headland of Kenhane (White
Head), crowned with the shell of a
castle of probably the same date as
that of Dunseverick. Near it is a
singular cave, known as Grace
Staple's, the basaltic pillars of
which are worth a visit.
26 m. Ballycastle (Hotel: Antrim
Arms, fair), a small uninteresting
town, prettily placed at the foot of
Knocklayd (Knoc-lade, Broad Moun-
tain), which rises to the S. to the
height of 1695 ft., and should be
ascended for the sake of the fine view
over the coast and Rathlin Island.
A part of the town is situated about
J m. from the rest, on the banks of
the Glenshesk river, near its embou-
chure, and from its aspect it would
seem as if an attempt had been made
to create some business at Bally-
castle, which at one time was rather
noted for its collieries. But all is
now dull and stagnant, and the town
principally depends on the stream of
visitors to the N. of Ireland. On th^
rt. bank of the river is the ruined
abbey of Bonamargy^ of which only
the shell remains, with one or two
good pointed windows.
The name Bona, orBon-na-Margy,
signifies the foot or mouth of the
Margey, which is the former name of
the small river which here joins the
Glenshesk, and now becomes the
Carey. The chapel is 100 ft. long.
On tlie N. of the choir are the refectory
and offices ; and '* the eastern porch
was formerly ornamented with several
well - executed bus - reliefs." — Mc-
Skimmin. The erection of Bona-
margy is usually attributed to Sor-
ley Boy or Somarle M'Donnell in
the 14th centy., though some as-
cribe *it to the McQuillans; at all
events it was selected by many of the
English nobles as their last resting-
place ; among them by the 1st Earl
of Antrim, whose cctntinuance in this
world must have hdd a great effect
on the fortunes of the country, if we
are to judge by an Irish inscription
on his coffin : —
•• At all times some calamity
Befals the Irish once every seventh year ;
But now that the Marquis Is departed
It will happen every year."
The abbey is said to have been
burnt down in a raid made by the
Scottish islanders, though afterwards
rebuilt by the clan of M'Cormick.
About 2 m. up the Glenshesk on
1. bank is the site of a castle called
after Gobhan Saer. It is a ques-
tion whether it was erected by or
a residence of Gobhan, the archi-
tect who built the round tower of
Antrim. A small ruin on the coast
to the W. of Ballycastle completes
the antiquarian ciu-iosities. The
geologist will be tempted to explore
the cliffs towards Fairhead, which
contain a large amount of coal strata,
from which at one time 10,000 to 15,000
tons were raised annually, but owing
to the estate falling uito Chancery
the workings were discontinued,
though a considemblo quantity of
ironstone is still raised.
Cross Hill, on which the collieries
are situated, is about 500 ft. high,
and is composed of columnar basalt,
resting on sandstone and clay slate,
beneath wliich is the coal at an ele-
vation of 200 ft. above the beach.
The seam is penetrated by a large
dyke of freestone, called Carrick
Mawr. {Introduction, p. xxix.)
112
Boute 13. — Coleraine to Belfast,
Ireland,
Conveyances. — To Ballymoney
daily.
Excursions. — •
1. Fairhead.
2. Cushendun.
3. Armoy.
>4. Carrick-a-rede.
5. Bathlio.
Distances. — Ballintoy, 4 m. ; Giant's
Causeway, 11^; Fairhead, 5; Cushen-
dun, 12 ; Cushendall, 17; Ballymoney,
17 ; Rathlin Island, 6 ; [which place is
very seldom visited, though it is highly
>vorth both the time and trouble.
The weather is of course the main
point on which the excursion hinges,
6ks if stormy the sail or row across the
Race of Sleuck-na-Massa, or the
valley of the sea, is unpleasant, if not
dangerous. At ebb tide the opposing
waters form a very rough sea, which
was anciently called the Caldron
of Brecain, owing to the drowning
of Brecain, son of Nial of the Nine
Hostages, together with his fleet of
50 curraghs. Batlilin^ Reachrainn, or
Raghery Island, the Ricina of Pto-
lemy, is of considerable extent, of the
shape of a finger bent at right angles
(or, as Sir W. Petty quamtly describes
it, of an " Irish stockinge, the toe of
which pointeth to the main lande"),
measuring from E. to W. about 4 m.
Its singular position between Ireland
and Scotland, its ancient remains,
and its natural beauties, all combine
to make it a very interesting visit.
St. Columb founded a church here in
the 6th centy., an honour which may
be attributed to its position between
Staffa and Ireland; but the same
cause operated prejudicially when
the Danes invaded the north, as
the island had then to bear the first
brunt of their savage assaults. Later
on it was so repeatedly ravaged by
the English and Scotch that in 1580
it was totally uninhabited. Rathlin
is connected with the fortunes of
Robert Bruce, who for a long period
sought concealment in the castle
which still bears his name, and in
which the well-known episode of the
spider and the web occurred. There
is but one harbour in the island, viz.- in
Church Bay, and even this is untenable
during westerly gales, to which it is
freely exposed. Near the landing-
place is the residence of the Rev. R.
Gage, who, as proprietor of the
island, lives amongst his people, and
exercises patriarchal rule and in-
fluence. In this respect Rathlin was
not always so fortunate, as at one
time we read in the Ulster Visita-
tion, " The isle of Raghline, possesste
by the Earle of Antrym, lias neither
vicar nor curate, it not being able to
mayntayneone." fm. from the bay on
the E. side is Bruce's Castle, or what
is left of it— a small portion of wall,
situated on a lofty precipice, nearly
insulated from the mainland by a
deep chasm. The chief beauty of
Bathlin is the clif&, which maintain
a considerable elevation all round,
the highest point being at Slieve-a-
carn, 447 fl;., on the N.W. coast, while
there is scarce any part lower than
180 ft. The general structure of the
rocks is chalk and basalt, the latter
assuming, in Aome places, the same
columnar aspect as on the opposite
coast of Fairhead. At Doon Point,
nearly 2 m. to the S. of Bruce's
Castle, they are most peculiar, having
a curved form, ** as if they slid over
while in a state of softness, and took
the inclination necessary to their
descent. At the base there is a
small mole, composed of compact
erect columns, forming a natural
pier." — Doyle. There are also some
singular caverns in the basalt to the
S. of Church Bay; and at Runas-
cariff the cliffs assume appearances
similar to those at Doon. The island
contains 3368 acres, of which about
one-fourth is arable and pasture ; the
inhabitants are a simple quiet race,
who chiefly gain their subsistence
by flshing, gathering kelp, and grow-
ing barley, the last two of which are
taken fo Campbellton and Glas-
gow.]
[A second excursion should be
Ireland.
Bovie 13. — Fairhead — Armoy.
113
undertaken to Fairhead or Benmore
(the Robogdium Promontorium of
Ptolemy), whose magnificent escarp-
ment is a striking feature in the drive
from Ballintoy to Ballycastle, and
forms a worthy finish to the basaltic
wonders of the N. coast.
It is 639 ft. in height, of which
319 or nearly half is occupied by a
mural precipice of enormous green-
stone columns, many of them up-
wards of 30 ft. in width. From the
base of these Brobdingnag piers, a
buttress of debris runs at a sharp
inclination down to the sea. A steep
and broken path, called " Fhir Leith,"
or the Grey Man's Path, rtins through
a mighty chasm, across which a gi-
gantic pillar has fallen: by follow-
ing this the tourist will gain a good
view of the columnar face of the pro-
montory. The view from the sum-
mit is difficult to surpass for panora-
mic extent, embracing the island of
Ratlilin, a considerable portion of
the Scotch coast, Islay, the Mull of
Cantire, and in clear weather the Paps
of Jura, while, to the W., the eye
follows the coast to the Causeway,
with the hills of Inishowen looming
in tlie far distance. There are 3
small tarns on the headland, one of
which. Lough Doo, is close to the
clifl^ and empties itself over it by a
waterfall. The waters of the other 2,
Lough-na-Faima and Lough Fadden,
also form a fall over Oarrick Mawr,
the whinstone dyke of the Ballycastle
coal-field, which, it should be men-
tioned, reappears on the W. side of the
lieadland at Murlough Bay. Even
in this short distance, the effects of
the disturbance to which the beds
have been subject are very striking.
There are at Murlough 6 beds of
coal, tlie 4 uppermost of which
are bituminous, while the lower ones
are anthracitic. The history of
these collieries, which have all been
worked by adits in the sea-face of
the cliff, would be interesting if
known. That ihey were worked
from a very early period is certain,
for in 1770, when an English com-
pany had taken possession of them, the
colliers employed discovered a long
gallery, and chambers containing
baskets, tools, and candles, tlie
wicks of which were formed of rags ;
there were also baiTows made of
boulders of basalt, clearly proving the
very early efforts that were made to
get the coal. Mr. Hamilton also men-
tions that in the mortar of which
Bruce's Castle in Rathlin Island was
built, cinders of coal were found. The
best way to visit this coast is to take
a boat from Ballycastle, row round
the head, and laud at Murlough Bay,
returning by foot along the coast.]
[The antiquarian may spend an
interesting day in visiting Armoy
fane. Airthear - maighe), 7 m. to
the S.W., the road thither run-
ning at the foot of Knocklayd. In
the ch.-yard is a round tower, 35
ft. high, by 46 round, with a cir-
cular doorway. A foimer rector sur-
mounted it with a dome of wood and
stone, and restored it to its original
purpose of a Cloig-theagh, by keep-
ing the ch. bell in it. From Armoy,
a by-road may be taken into the
lonely vale of the Glenshesk, which
rises in the Sleive-au-Orra Mountain
(1678 ft. J, a portion of a lofty chain
intervenmg between Ballycastle and
Cushendall. On the 1. hsLuk of the
river, 2 m. from Ballycastle, is the
Castle of Gobhan Saer, the architect
of Antrim Round Tower. It has,
however, been proved by Dr. Reeves
to have been an old chapel, " proba-
bly the Ecclesia de Druin Indict, of
the Tripartite Life of St. Patrick."
Large numbers of stone celts and
weapons have been foimd in this ^
neighbourhood from time to time,
proving the struggles that have here
taken place. On the summit of
Knocklayd is a large cairn, said to
have been erected to the memory of
3 Danish princesses. An inspection
of the Abbey of Bonamargy (p. Ill)
will conclude a good day's work.]
The road from Ballycastle follows
114
Houte 13. — Colerame to Belfast.'
Ireland.
the vale of the Carey as far as the
hamlet of (29 m.) Bally voy, where a
branch is given off along the coast
past Torr and Runabay Heads to
Cashendun. For pedestrians who
wish to obtain coast views, this route
is very advantageous, and only about
1 m. longer. The car-road crosses
the Carey, and strikes into the hills,
passing along tiie base of Cameig-
haneigh (1036 ft.).
The view from the top of the
hill overlooking Cmhendun (anc.
Bun-ftthaine-Duine) is very charm-
ing, and embraces the little village
with its pretty ch. and neat resi-
dences nestling by the sea-sliore,
and on the h&nkB of the Glendun, a
river of some volume rising in the
Slieve-an-Orra hills, and flowing for
its whole course between mountains of
considerable height. About 2 m. from
the village it is crossed by a lofty
and exceedingly picturesque via-
duct, which, as seen from a distance,
completely spans the vale. Close to
the sea-shore (where the tourist will
find more caves) are the residences
of Nicholas Crommelin and R. C.
Dobbs, Esqrs.
Distance. — Oushendun from Cush-
endall, 5 m. ; Ballycastle, 12.
43 m. CushendaU (a good Inn) is
another pretty little town, placed
close to tiie sea at the mouth of the
Glenaan, amidst very lovely scenery.
The Dall, a small stream from which
the name is derived, also fulls in here.
There are slight ruins of a castle
on a mount hard by. The road now
greatly improves in scenery, running
close to the waterside, and affording
magnificent coast views, in which
the cliffs of Red Bay are well set off
by the chalk strata of Garron Point.
The greater part of the district
from Ballycastle to Cushendun, is
composed of granitic rocks, oc-
casionally interrupted by the coal-
measures, and subsequently by the
chalk. From the latter place, how-
ever, the Devonian, or old Red,
make their appearance, and are ex-
posed in magnificent sections all
along the coast, particularly at the
romantic village of GlenaHff, or
Waterfoot (44^ m.), in which the
road is actually carried under short
tunnels of old Red. There are also
several caves, which, as regards this
series of rocks, are somewhat un-
usual, as they are generally found in
the mountain limestone.
Red Bay is one of the most pic-
turesque spots in the whole route.
It is an irregular semicircle sur-
rounded by cliffs; at one comer
are the white houses of the village,
situated just where the glen of the
Glenariff opens up into the moun-
tains, which are here of a consi-
derable height. Immediately over
the village are the escarpments of
Lurigethan (1154 ft.), while Crocha-
lough (1304), and Trostran (1817),
the highest of the chain, close the
view. The red sandstone now shortly
disappears, giving place to the chalk
cliffs, which have been blasted to
form the magnificent terrace-road,
executed by the perseverance and
genius of Mr. Tumley.
Isolated columns of chalk stand
fantastically by the side of the sea-
shore, by the side of which the road
runs closely, presenting sea views
that are seldom surpassed. 48J m*
at Clogh-a-stucan, one of the most
peculiar of these columns, the road
trends to the S., and passes Garron
Tcmer^ the castellated residence of
the Marquis of Londonderry, who
possesses in this and the neighbour-
ing county of DeiTy very large es-
tates. Close to Garron Point is the
rock of Drummailf or Dunmaul, the
summit of which is crowned by a
fort, said by tradition to have been
the locality where all the Irish rents
were paid. From hence too the
Danish ravagerstook their departure.
Continuing under the escarpments of
Knockore (1179 ft.), which are every
now and then interrupted by a lovely
dell, we come to (51 m. rt.) Drumna-
sole (J. Turnley, Esq)., one of the
Ireland.
Boute 13. — Carnlough — Lame.
115
most beautiful of the many beautiful
localities in this district.
53 m. Carnlough, (a good Inn) a
pretty and cheerful looking watering-
place, has grown up under the foster-
ing eyes of the Londonderry family,
who erected a pier and tram-road for
bringing the limestone from tiie
quarries. It has the recommenda-
tions of lovely scenery, smooth beach,
and general cleanliness. A small
river falls into the sea here, rising
in the hills of Collin Top (1426 ft.).
About 4 m. to the rt. another wind
of the coast-road brings the tourist
in sight of the bay and valley of
Glenarm, still more secluded than
either Waterfoot or Carnlough,
{Hotel : Antrim Arms, bad). Glenarm
is a pretty little town of about 1000
Inhab., adorned with a graceful
spired ch., and the barouial residence
of the family of Macdonnell, Earls
of Antrim. The latter stands in a
wooded park, on the opposite side of
the river to the town, and is entered
bva tower on the N. side of the bridge.
The castle itself is a modernized and
singular mixture of towers, para-
pete, and pinnacles, though the ex-
quisite situation and scenery are suf-
ficient compensation for any archi-
tectural inconsistencies. The tourist
should visit the terrace which over-
hangs the river, the walk down the
glen to the sea, in the course of
which are some charming waterfalls,
and the Deer-park, which is hemmed
in between the sea and a fine range
of basaltic cliffs over 200 ft. high.
Glenarm Castle has been inhabited
by the Antrim family since 1750,
tlieir former residence having been
at Ballymagarry, until ite destruction
by fire.
Distances. — Lame, 11| m. ; Cush-
endall, 13; Ballycastle, 30; Carn-
lough, 3.
Excursions. —
1. Carnlough and Garron.
2. Larne and Carncastle.
The old road is seen from the
castle grounds to climb up a very
steep hill. This was for long the
only road to the place, but it was
superseded in 1 834 by the magnificent
scheme of Mr. Bald, who, by blast-
ing the chalk clifts, and allowing the
ddbris to serve as a bulwark against
the sea, obtained room for a broad
road, equal in every respect to the
one completed by Mr. Turnley. The
pedestrian, however, will do well to
take the old road, which keeps high
ground until about half way to
Larne. Some miles out at sea, the
two solitary Hulin or Maiden rocks
are conspicuous, bearing a fixed light-
house on each, 84 and 94 ft. re-
spectively above hi«^h water.
63 m. at Carncastle is a very fine
development of cliff scenery ; on
the rt. in the escarpments of Knock
Dhu and Sallagh Braes, which are
shaped like an amphitheatre, and on
1. in Ballygalley Head, where the
basaltic columns are again visible.
There are remains of a fort on an
insulated rock between the road and
the sea, and also of the Elizabethan
manor-house of the Shaws : ou
rt. is Carncastle Lodge (J. Agnew,
Esq.). The road now winds along-
side of Drains Bay, and, passing
through a basaltic tunnel known as
Black Cave, arrives at
67^ m. Larne (anc. Lathama)
{Hotel: King's Arms), a prettily
placed town, whicli, though, not
offering many attractions in it-
self, is a convenient point from
whence to explore Island Magee.
From the secmity of its land-locked
harbour a very considerable trade
has been carried on here, particu-
larly in the article of lime, which is
extensively shipped at Maghera-
mome, about 4 m. to the S. A recently
opened rly. connecting Larne with
Carrickfergus will doubtless largely
increase the prosperity of the port.
Between the town and the ferry the
coast makes a singular curve, from
its shape called Cuiraun (a reaping-
hook) ; and at the termination of the
curve stands a square tower, which
116
Boute 13. — Coleraine to Belfast
Ireland.
in former days waa celebrated under
the name of Olderfleet CasUe.
Henry III. granted the possession
of this district to the Scotch family
of Bissett, who built the fortress for
the protection of their property,
though it was subsequently forfeited
on account of their participation in
rebellion. The only historical event
of importance connected with the
castle is the landing of Bruce (1315),
with an army of 6000 men, for the in-
vasion of Ireland. Baphanus mari-
timus grows on the Curraim, near
the salt-works.
Distances. — Carrickfergus, 14| m.
by rail; Glenarm, 11 J; Maghera-
morne, 4 ; Glynn, 2.
Conveyances. — Car to Ballycastle ;
rail to Carrickfergus and Belfast;
steamer daily to Stranraer.
Excursions. —
1. Magheramome and Glynn.
2. Glenarm.
3. Island Magee.
4. Carrickfergus.
[1 m. from the town is a ferry (the
rights of which were granted, toge-
ther with the castle of Olderfleet,
to the Chichester family in the
17th centy.) between the so-called
Island Magee and the mainland.
In reality it is only a narrow pro-
montory about 5 m. in length and 2
in breadth, running parallel with
and separating the mainland from
the ocean. " The inhabitants are all
of Scottish descent, and are still
thoroughly Scotch in dialect, man-
ners, and customs ; they are a re-
markably intelligent race ; and it is
worthy of notice, that out of a popu-
lation of nearly 3000, no pei-son
living can recollect an instance of a
native of tliis place being imprisoned
for or convicted of any criminal
offence." — Hall.
It was held by the singular tenure
of a goshawk and a pair of gloves.
On the E. coast the scenery is very
fine, particularly at the Gohbinsy a
range of high cliffs, of basaltic cha-
racter, and perforated by 7 caves.
The "W. coast is not remarkable for
. anything but its mud banks, particu-
larly towards the S., where the shores
of Lough Lame approximate.
The antiquarian will find near the
landing-place a cromlech formed of
six upright stones supporting a large
flat slab nearly 6 ft. in length. Some
years ago several gold ornaments,
including a torque, were dug up
near this cromlech. "There is an
ancient Pagan remain called Cam-
doo, or locally * The Abbey,' on the
face of Ballybooley Hill (near Port-
muck), consisting of several huge
stones ranged in a circle.*'— Doyle.
At Brown's Bay on the N. is a large
rocking-stone, which was believed to
tremble at the approach of a crimi-
nal. Good as was Island Magee as
regards moral character, it had an
imtbrtunate notoriety for witchcraft
and superstition, the last trial which
took place in Ireland being that of a
native of this district, who was pil-
loried at Carrickfergus in 1711.]
Immediately after leaving Lame
the road crosses the Lame Water,
which rises about 4 m. S.E. at Ceaun
Gubha, the " Hill of Grief" Here
Tuathal Teachtmar was slain in
battle, A.D. 106, by Mai MacRoch-
raide, King of Ulster.
69^ m. at Glynn are the ruins of a
ch., the nave possessing square-
headed windows of an earlier date
than those of the chancel, which are
pointed. The latter is evidently an
addition. [From this village a road
shorter by 2 m., but not so practica-
ble, runs inland to Carrickfergus,
rejoining the coast-road at Eden,
and passing en route Glenoe, a
very picturesque village in a deep
glen, in which a waterfiill adds to
the beauty of the scene. A new ch.
has been built in the vicinity by the
exertions of the late Lord Dun-
gannon.
Passing through the hamlet of
Beltoy, we have on rt. Lough Moume,
the waters of which are said to cover
a large town, which was thus over-
Ireland.
Bovie 18. — Carrickfergus.
117
whelmed at the request of a pilgrim
who had been reiused hospitality,
and had cursed it at his departure.
8| m. Eden.] Between Glynn and
Magheramome House (C. M'Garel,
Esq.), near which are the exten-
sive lime-works before mentioned,
the geologist will notice the effects of
a large landslip which in 1834 car-
ried away the coach-road. A narrow
strip of lias rmis alongside the lough
and will yield a number of charac-
teristic lias fossils to the collector —
viz., Pentacrinites, Plagiostoma,
Gryphsea, Ammonites, &c.
Nearly opposite the commence-
ment of the Lough Lame are the vil-
lage of BaUycarry (a station on the
xly.) and the ruined ch. of Temple-
coran, noted for being the cradle of
the Presbyterian religion in Ireland,
where the first congregation was
established in 1613 by Kev. Edward
Brice. The living of Kilroot was
tlie first appointment obtained by
Dean Swift, but was soon resigned
by him, on account of its unconge-
nial solitude. Close to the high road
is the dell of the Salt Hole, the
scene of Sorley McDonnell's infa-
mous ambuscade in 1597, when Sir
John Chichester, governor of Carrick-
fergus, was captured, to finish his
career by being executed at Glynn.
Red Hall is the seat of Rev. D.
Bull.
76 m. near Slaughterford Bridge
the road running through Island
Magee falls in. About f m. 1. on
the coast are the remains of the
castle of the Chichesters, which thus
protected the district on the S. as
Olderfleet did on the N. 1 m. further
up the coast is the promontory of
Black Head, well worth visiting for
its beautiful cliff scenery. Two
isolated rocks. My Lord and My
Lady, are especial attractions. At
White Head the road suddenly ap-
proaches and as suddenly recedes
from the coast, a fact of which the
Magnetic Telegraph Company have
taken advantage to put their wires
in connection with Carrickfergus.
79 m. rt. are the demesnes of
Bellahill (M. Dalway, Esq), Castle
Dobbs (C. Dobbs, Esq.), and Or-
lands (J. Smyth, Esq.); and soon
afterwards, passing the village of
Eden, between which and Kilroot
the botanist will find Orobanche
rubra, Carex Buxhaumi, and Calama
grostis, we arrive at
82 m. the time-honoured port of
Carrickfergus (ano. Carraic - Fear-
gusa) {Hotel: Victoria, very poor)
(Pop. 4028). The town ismeaniina
dirty, but its situation on the shores
of the Belfast Lough, goes far to
redeem these faults : added to which,
its historic associations and its well-
preserved remains will amply repay a
day spent here. These remains are —
1. The Castle; 2. Walls; 3. Church.
The Castle is a magnificent speci-
men of an inhabited Anglo-Norman
fortress, and was built by De Courcy
in 1178, to protect his Ulster posses-
sions. It changed hands, however,
during the invasion of Bruce, who,
having captured Olderfieet, occu-
pied Carrickfergus after a long and
spirited defence by the English garri-
son under Mandeville. After Bnice's
fall, in the battle near Dundalk, the
castle again reverted to the English,
and, with a few occasional changes
into Scotch or Irish possession during
the troubled times of 1641, remained
with them. Mention should also be
made of the attack by the French,
under Thurot, in 1760, though their
success was but shortlived. The
English squadron under Elliott over-
took the French near the Isle of
Man, and during the engagement
that followed Thurot was killed.
The castle occupies a strong position
on a rock overlooking the Lough,
and at high water is surrounded on
3 sides, the harbour occupying the
area to the S. The entrance from
the land side is through a fine gate-
way, fianked on either side by a
tower, called a Half-moon. TLe
118
Boute 13. — Coleraine to Belfast.
Ireland.
visitor will notice the usual defen-
sive appliances, such as portcullis,
embrasures for fire-arms, and the
apertures for pouring melted lead,
&c., upon the assailants. Within the
gates is the lower yard or ballium,
containing guard-rooms and bar-
racks ; and to the S. again is the
upper yard, from which rises the
most conspicuous portion of the cas-
tle— the great donjon or keep, a
huge square tower of 5 stories.
•* The largest room, called Fergus's
Dining-room, was in the 3rd story,
with some circular windows ; it was
25 ft. high, 38 ft. broad, 40 ft. long ;
the ground story was bombproof,
and within the keep was a draw-well
37 ft. deep, but now nearly choked
up with rubbish." — M'Skimmirts
History of Carrickfergus, The walls
of the castle follow the sinuosities of
the rock all round. Since 1843 it
has been garrisoned for the crown
by a detachment of artillery and pen-
sioners, and has lately been refitted
with gun^ of newer type and calibre.
The visitor is allowed to inspect the
whole, with the exception of the
keep, part of which is used as a
magazine.
The walls have to a great extent
disappeared, but they may be traced
on the W. side of the town, and
partly on the N., where a round
arched gateway still exists.
The cii., dedicated to St. Nicholas,
is a cruciform building, surmounted
by a broad spire with a balustrade
round the base. Notice the singular
Elizabethan style of the N» transept,
with its gable ends. In the interior
are some remarkable monuments,
especially one to Lord Donegal, with
2 principal kneeling figures repre-
senting Sir Arthur Chichester, first
Earl of Belfast, and his wife. Below
is the effigy of Sir John Chichester,
who was taken in the ambuscade
at Salthole, and beheaded. It is
said that " Sorley McDonnell, being
in Ciirrickfergus, went to see the
monuments in the ch., and, upon Sir
John's eflSgy being pointed out, he
said, * How the deil cam he to get
his head again ? for I am sure I anc©
tak it Irae him.* "
The transept is divided from the
nave by 2 round-headed arches and
round piers. The ch. is lighted by a
3-light window on N. of chanoel, a
stained-glass S. window, and 2 sin-
gular rose lights on either side of the
organ. A subterranean passage now
blocked up communicates with a
Franciscan monastery, which for-
merly existed some way from the
church.
A pleasant and useful custom
exists of the bell ringing at 6 morn-
ing and evening, for the use of the
workmen in the town, thus asso-
ciating with the dignity of labour the
practical remembrance of religion.
The geologist may pay a visit to
the salt-mines at Duncrue, that
lie to the W. of the town. They
are situated in the triassic sandstone
deposit, which borders the Belfast
Lough all the way from White Head
to Belfast.
Conveyances. — From Carrickfergus
to Belfast, Antrim, and Lame, by
rail.
Distances. — Belfast, 9J m. ; An-
trim, 15| ; Lame, 15J ; Glenarm, 26.
Leaving on 1. the ancient site of
the Abbey of Woodbum, the tra-
veller arrives at the Junction of the
Antrim and Coleraine Rly., and is
soon deposited at
91i m. Belfast (Rte. f).
Ireland.
Route 14. — Dublin to Gdlway,
119
ROUTE 14.
FBOM DUBLIN TO MULLINGAR,
ATHLONE, BALLINASLOE, AND
GALWAY.
The whole of this route, 126 m.,
is performed by the Midland Great
Western Rly., opened in 1852, one
of the great trunk lines of Ire-
land, wliich cuts right across the
country, dividing it as nearly as
possible into 2 equal portions. It is
the principal route to Connemara
and the Western Highlands, and
passes through such desolate tracts
of land that the Enghsh tourist
cannot be too thankful that he
is travelling by the locomotive in-
stead of an outside car. And
yet the country is not altogether so
bleak ; for the first 25 mUes or so it is
characterised by wooded champaign
country, watered by pretty streams,
and dotted with farms and resi-
dences, while every now and then
even in the worst portion a pretty
bit of landscape breaks the mo-
notony of the bog. The lino starts
from the Broadstone Stat, in the
northern part of the city. It is a
large, though somewhat heavy build-
ing, of a mixture of Grecian and
Egyptian styles, which, however, im-
part an eiiG|pt of massiveness and
solidity. The interior arrangements
are good, and tiie comfort of the
traveller is attended to in a manner
that might be well unitated by more
than one rly. company in England.
Close to the stiit., and indeed running
side by side with the line for 50 m.,
is the Royid Canal, also the property
of the ^lidland Great Western Co.
Emerging from the offices of the
stat. yard, the line passes through
some of the pleasantest suburbs of
Dublin, having on 1. the Phoenix Park
with its numerous objects of interest,
and on rt. the villages of Glasnevin,
with its cemetery and botanical gar-
dens, and Finglas, also the observatory
of Dunsink, all of which are adjacent
to the valley of the Tolka river. They
have been described in Rte. 1. A
fine background is afforded on the 1.
by the ranges of the Dublin and
Wicklow moimtains, which, however,
after a few miles gradually trend to
theS.
4.i m. JBlanclmrcUtown Stat. Here
is a large religious house for nuns ;
and adjoining the village is Abbots-
town, the residence of J. Hamilton,
Esq., M.P.
[1 m. 1., occupying the summit of
Knockmaroon Hill, Castlehiwclct a
small viQage, with the ruins of a
fortress, formerly held by Hugh de
Tyrrel against Edward Bruce in 1316^
It was on this occasion captured, and
again in 1642 by the Duke of Albe-
marle, "who slew in the assault 80
of its defenders, and subsequently
hanged as many more." The worthy
citizens of Dublin will doubtless find
greater attractions in the strawberry-
beds for which the valley of the
Liffcy is famous, and which extend
for a considerable distance on the
N. side of the river.]
7 m. OUmsilla, remarkable for a very
deep canal cutting of 3 m. in length,
through the calp or middle carbonife-
rous limestone series. [From this
station the line of the Dublin and
Meath Co. branches off to Navan and
Kells, passing through Dunboyne
and Kilmessan, neither of them
places of any interest.
20 m. Bective. Tlie ruins of the
Abbey are described in Rte. 15.
23 Navan.]
Between the rly. and the Liffey are
the picturesque grounds of Wood-
lands, tiio. well-planted demesne of
Lord Annaly, and formerly the seat of
tlie Earls of Carhampton. The house
is said to contain a room in which
King Jolm passed a night
9 m. Lucan Stat. The village of
the same name, which gives the title
120
Boute 14. — Dublin to Galway.
Ireland.
of Earl to the family of Bingham, is
charmingly situated, about 1 m. to
the 1. on the S. bank of the Liffey,
here crossed by a single-arched stone
bridge of 100 ft. span, with iron balus-
trades. Lucan was celebrated for its
spa, though fashion has long ago de-
serted it. " Its fame was derived from
its sulphuretted hydrogen water,
flowing from a bed of calp limestone,
which contains p)rrites." — Knox.
The banks of the river are charm-
ingly set off by ornamental parks
and residences, amongst which are
Lucaij House (C. Colthurst, Esq.\
Woodville House (Sir Hopton Scott),
and St. Edmonsbury House (W.
Berwick, Esq.). In the grounds of
the former house, into which visitors
are admitted, are the remains of the
fortress of the Sarsfields, the ances-
tors of the Binghams.
[The tourist who may wish to
return to town by a different route
can go across from Lucan to the other
stat. on the Great Southern and
Western Rly. (Rte. 25), distant 1 J m.
Ho may also proceed from the villeige
to LeixUp, visit the salmon-leap, and
reioin the Midland line at Leixlip
Stat.]
10 m. rt. (at which point the tra-
veller enters Kildare county) are the
partial remains of a curiously tall
tower, known as Confey Castle, sup-
posed to have been one of many that
were erected by the early colonists to
protect themselves from the attacks
of the native Irish. When in pre-
servation, it consisted of a massive
square tower of 5 stages, with turrets
at the N. and W. angles, and had a
principal entrance imder a semi-
circular archway.
11 m. Leixlip Stet. [f m. from
which on 1. is the ancient little town
of Leixlip, situated at the confluence
of the Rye Water with the Liffey,
wliich is crossed by a stone bridge of
3 arches. Overlooking the wooded
banks of the river is the modernized
castle, flanked on the W. by a cir-
cular, and on the E. by a square
tower, the building of which is attri-
buted to Adam Fitz-Hereford, one
of the earliest of Anglo-Norman
settlers, and a follower of Strong-
bow. It is now the residence of
C. P. Hoffinan, Esq. The chief part of
the property round Leixlip formerly
belonged to the Earls of Kildare,
from whom it passed into the Co-
noUy family. A short distance up
the stream is the famous salmon-
leap, where the Liffey tumbles over
a broad though not high ledge of
limestone rocks in a very picturesque
cataract— a favourite resort of picnic-
lovers from Dublin —
" For Leislip is proud of its close shady
bowers,
Its clear falling waters and mnrm'riDg
cascades,
Its groves of fine myrtle, its beds of sweet
flowers,
Its lads so well dress'd, and its neat
pretty maids."
O'Ketft.
The visitor must not found his
hopes too strongly on seeing the
salmon ascend tbe ledge **per sal-
tum," as it is only at certain times
and seasons that the operation is per-
formed. The botanist will find Hie-
racium hirsutum growing near the
Leap.
1 m. higher up the river is crossed
at Newbridge by a very ancient
bridge of 4 arches (the 2 middle
ones being pointed), built in 1308 by
John le Decer, then mayor of Dublin,
and believed to be the oldest struc-
ture of the kind now existing in
Ireland. On the rt. tank of the
Liffey are the grounds of St. Wtd-
Btans (R. Cane, Esq.), containing
some interesting Dec. gateways, the
remains of the priory founded here
by Adam Fitz-Hereford, at the be-
ginning of the 13 th cent., in honour
of St. Wulstan, Bishop of Wor-
cester, who had been just before ca-
nonized. On the opposite side of
the stream is Castletown House, the
seat of Thos. ConoUy, Esq., M.P.,
whose ancestor, the Right Hon. Wil-
liam Conolly, was Speaker of the
Ireland.
Route 14. — Maynooth
121
House of Commons in the time of
Queen Anne. The house is a fine
though somewhat overgrown build-
ing, consisting of a centre connected
with 2 wings by semicircular colon-
nades. By a favourite Irish fiction, it
is supposed to contain a window for
every day in the year, just as all the
lakes are said to be furnished with
365 islands. The grounds contain
some splendid cedar-trees.
3 m. from Leixlip is the pretty
village of Celbridge, noted for being
the residence of Miss Esther Van-
homrigh, the illfated Vanessa of Dean
Swift. From hence the tourist can
return to Dublin from Hazlehatch
Stat, li m. on the Great Southern
line.]
Crossing the valley of the Rye
Water, in company with an aqueduct
100 ft. in height for the accommo-
dation of the canal, and skirting the
woods of Carton on rt., the line
reaches
15 m. Maynooth {Hotel: Leinster
Arms), a small, tolerably built town,
containing several interestmg objects
(Pop. 1497). Conspicuous from the
rly. is the massive tower of the castle,
renowned for its strength and
magnificence during its tenure by
the powerful family of Kildare. It
is said to have been bmlt, or more
probably reconstructed, in 1426 by
John the 6th Earl, and remained in
the possession of the Fitzgeralds
until the reign of Henry VIII., when,
in consequence of the rebellion of
Lord Thomas Fitzgerald, better
known as Silken Thomas, from his
gorgeous accoutrements of silk, it
was besieged by Sir William Brere-
ton, to whom it was treacherously
yielded by Christopher Parese, the
foster-brofiieroftheGeraldines. The
tndtor was, however, rightly served,
for, after payment was made to him
of the stipulated reward, "his head
was chopped off." The ruins, which
have been neatly kept in order by
the Duke of Leinster, the owner of
[^Ireland.']
the soil, consist of a massive keep,
with a considerable extent of out-
works, strengthened at intervals by
towers. The importance of the for-
tress at the time of its capture is
thus quaintly described : " Greate
and riche was the spoile— such store
of beddes, so many goodly hangings,
so riche a wardrob, such brave furni-
ture, as truly it was accompted, for
householde stuffe and utensils, one
of the richest Earle his homes
under the crowne of Englande." —
Holirished, Hard by is the College,
which, from the political feelings
called into play, has made Maynooth
fiamous in modem Irish history. A
college was founded here in 1513 by
Gerald 8th Earl of Kildare, who ap-
pointed provost and vice-provost, and
endowed it with lands roimd the
tower of Taghadoe. It became, how-
ever, an institution for the education
of Irishmen in 1795, in con8ec[uence
of the suspension of the contmental
colleges from the continuance of
the war. The former building was
imsightly and inconvenient, being
in fact a series of additions made
at different times to a house built
by Lord Leinster's butler; but all
this has since been remedied by the
beautiftil designs of Pugin, consist-
ing of an E. Eng. quadrangle, 340
by 300 ft. The college of Maynooth,
ever since its foundation in 1795,
has been maintained by grants, first
from the Irish and afterwards from
the Imperial Parliament, the annual
vote from 1808 to 1813 being 8283Z..
afterwards raised to 8928L By an
act passed in the present reign, the
college was permanently endowed
for lie maintenance and education
of 500 students and of 20 senior
scholars on the foimdation by Lord
Dunboyne, besides which 30,000Z.
was set apart for the erection of the
necessary buildings. The course of
study requires 8 years for its com-
pletion, and no student is admitted
except he be intended for the Irish
priesthood. Adjoining the college
Q
122
BcuU 14. — Dublin to Gcdway,
Ireland.
is the parish ch., possessing a very
massive tower, and some Dec.
windows.
Close to the town is the entrance
gate to Carton^ the seat of the Duke
of Leinster, Ireland's only Duke. It is
a tiandsome Grecian building, consist-
ing of centre with wings, connected
by corridors, and possessing in the
interior a library and some choice
pictures. The entrance is by a
porch surmounted by a triangular
pediment, in the tympanum of which
are the arms of the family. The
park is very extensive, and is more
thoroughly English in the character
of its timber and scenery than in
almost* any estate in Ireland. Land-
scape-gardening has been carried to
a high pitch, and every point has
been seized which could be mad«
available for effect The property of
C5arton formerly belonged to the
Talbots, a younger branch of the
Talbots of Malahide, and was pur-
chased m 1738 by the 19th Earl of
Kildare from a Mr. Ingoldsby. The
mansion was designed by Cassels, a
celebrated Dublin architect, who
built the town houses of the Leinster
and Waterford fomilies, as well as
the Lying-in HospitaL
The visitor to Carton by road
from Leixlip need not return by the
same gate, but may proceed direct
to Majrnooth.
[A few m. to the S. of Maynooth is
the round tower of Taghadoe, remark-
able for being of greater dimensions
than is usual in such structures. The
college of Maynooth was endowed
with the lands round this tower.]
19 V m. Kileock, a little town on
the li;., need not detain the tourist,
as it possesses nothing save a cele-
brity for provincial races.
A coach leaves Femslock Stat.,
21^ m., every afternoon for Trim,
11m. (Rte. 15).
25J m. 1., very near the line, is
Cloncurry ruined ch., and a singular
mound, probably of a sepulchral cha-
racter. The traveller will notice
with regret that the pretty English
scenery through which he has been
hitherto passing has been gradually
changing and giving place to me-
lancholy and dreary bog, a por-
tion of the bog of Allen, continu-
ing for the greater portion of the
way to MuUmgar. The beautiful
tliough distant ranges of the Dublin
mountains have also nearly dis-
appeared in the distance.
2(ii Enfield (Rte. 15), a neatly
kept Uttle town, where the touri^
who wishes to explore the archaeo-
logical treasures of the Boyne will
have to leave the rly.
Distances. — Edenderry, 11 m. ;
Trim, 11 ; Carbury, 7.
30^ m. MoyvaUey, close to which
is Ballina, the seat of Bight Hon.
More OTerrall, M.P. ; and at 33 m.
the line crosses the river Boyne,
which, as far as picturesque features
are concerned, will probably dis-
appoint. In this early part of its
course it is boggy and sluggish, a
condition which the operations of
the Draining Commissioners have not
helped to remove, but have rather
increased. About 2 m. to the 1. the
tower of Clonard ch. is visible (Rte.
15).
At 36 m. HiU of Down Stat.,
the traveller may mve an oppor-
tunity of examining the ingenious
manner in which Mr. Hemans, the
engineer of the rly., overcame the
difficulties which presented them-
selves. " In these bogs he has relied
wholly on a careful and complete
system of drainage, whereby the
upper crust is so perfectly hardened
and dried, that the rails and heavy
trains are supported upon it by a
light framework of timber." The
HiU of Down itself is formed of
drift gravel.
41 m. KiUucan Stat. {Hotel :
Moore 8.) The town, a little to the
rt., contains nothing of interest. In
the neighbourhood are Riversdale
(E. G. Briscoe, Esq.), Grangemore
(J. Briscoe, Esq.), Hyde Park (G.
Ireland. Route 14. — Mtdlingar — Lough Ennel.
123
D'Arcy, Esq.), Huntingdon House
(W. Gorman, Esq.), Clonlost (J.
Nugent, Esq.), Lisnabin (G. Purdon,
Esq.), Killynon (R. Reynell, Esq.).
A good view is obtained from Knock-
sheban HiU (473 ft.).
The monotony of the bog now
becomes more interrupted, and the
country again assumes a cultivated
and w6odll appeamnce, tUl we arriye
at the important inland town of,
50 m., MuUingar {Hotel : Murray's)
(Rte. 18), one of the most extensive
military depots in Ireland (Pop. 5426).
The assizes and the usual coimly
business for Westmeath are also
carried on here. It is the centre of
a large trade in butter, wool, frieze,
and cattle, a horse-fair, which ex-
tends over several days, being held
in November. MuUingar, both in the
general appearance of its buildings
and the absence of all archaBological
features, would seem to be of modem
times, although it was in reality one
of the most ancient of palatinate
towns, founded by the English settlers
in Meath, and possessing a castle, a
priory for canons of St. Augustine,
and also one for Dominicans, of
which buildings there are now no
traces. It was the scene of an ob-
stinate fight in 1339, when Lord
Thomas Butler was attacked and slain
by MacGeoghegan, and in later days
it was garrisoned by Gen. Ginckel as
the head-quarters of William IH.'s
army previous to the sie^e of Athlone.
As a military station it still keeps
its pre-eminence, for which its cen-
tral position makes it particularly
valuable. The country in the im-
mediate neighbourhood is pretty
and wooded, and is moreover weU
watered by very considerable lakes
and their attendant streams, afford-
ing good sport to the fisherman : of
these the principal are Lough Owel
and Lough Derevaragh (Rte. 18) to
the N., and Lough Emiel some 2 m.
to the S. MuUingar itself is on the
Brosna, which, in English, signifies
" a bundle of firewood ; " and the
whole district was formerly known
as " The Country of the Waters."
The tourist should visit Multi-
famham Abbey on the Longford
Rly. (Rte. 18).
Conveyances.— Rail to Dublin, Ath-
lone, Galway, Cavan, Longford, and
Sligo. Cars to Ballymahon and Kil-
beggan.
Distances, — Longford, 26 m. ; Ca-
van, 36 ; Multifarnham, 7^ ; Dublin,
50 ; Athlone, 28 ; Ballymahon, 18 ;
Kilbeggan, 14; Lough Owel, 2; Lough
Ennel, 2.
Excursions. —
1. Lough Ennel.
2. Lough Owel and Multifarnham.
A pleasant excursion may be taken
to the head of Lough Ennel, other-
v^e called Belvi(fere Lake, from
the mansion and estate of the same
name overlooking it. It is a pretty
lake of about 5 m. in length, well
wooded on one side, though not pre-
senting any scenery to entitle it to
higher praise. The fishing is good,
and the trout run from 1 to 10 lbs.,
the best season being at the end
of May and June, when the green
drake is on the water. There
are several residences on either
bank : on the rt. are Lynnburry (J.
Rutherford, Esq.^, Bloomfield (Col.
Caulfield), Belvidere (B. Marley,
Esq."^, a seat of the Es^rl of Lanes-
borough, in whose grounds is a large
pseudo-ruin intended for a priory;
Rochfort House, an untenanted man-
sion belonging to Sir Francis Hop-
kins, Bart., who, in consequence of
an attempted assassination, suddenly
abandoned it to reside elsewhere ;
AnnevOle House (Hon. H. Pamell),
Dunboden Park (Mrs. Cooper), G^ay-
brook (R. Smyth, Esq.), Cairick
(W. Featherstonehaugh, Esq.) ; while
on the W. side are Lilliput House
( — Hudson, Esq.), Middleton House
(G. Boyd, Esq.), BeUmount (A. Reilly,
Esq.), and Ladestown (J. Lyons, Esq.).
^t 53^ m. the canal, which has
hitherto ke^t closely alongside the
rly., leaves it at BaUina Bridge and
o 2
i2i
Boute 14. — Dublin to Galway,
Ireland.
turns off N. to Longford. With an oc-
casional view over the low shores of
Lough Ennel on L, the rly. now
passes through a less attractive
country to
58 m. Castletown^ a small village
on 1. The whole of this district is
abundantly dotted with raths, re-
lieved every few miles by a single
ruined tower, marking the residence
of some native chief.
62 m. Streamstown, a little beyond
which, on 1., close to the line, is the
ruined tower of Laragh. At this
point is a junction with the Clara
branch of the Great Southern and
Western Railway.
67 m. 1. is the newly-drained
lakelet of Ballinderry, where the
labourers employed on the rly. works
in 1850 discovered large quantities
of bones of animals, associated with
ancient spears and weapons, together
with some very primitive canoes cut
out of a single tree.
88 m. Moate, a thriving little
place, much frequented by Quakers,
"taking its name from a moat or
rath at the back of the town, in what
was originally the territory of the
McLoughlins, and which was called
after Grace McLoughlifi * Grana oge,'
or Grace's Moat." — Lewis. Close to
the town are Moate Park (Lord
Crofton) and Ballynagartry. Pass-
ing 73 m. 1. Glynwood House, the
seat of J. Longworth, Esq., the tra-
veller soon perceives on 1. the ap-
proaching junction line of the South-
Westem line, and, crossing the noble
stream of the Shannon, enters
78 m. the city of AthUme {Hotel :
Bergins', tolerably comfortable)
(Rte. 25), which has played a more
important part in the history of L-e-
land than any other town, with
the exception perhaps of London-
derry (Pop. 6227). Although a set-
tlement existed here, known by the
name of ** Ath-Luain," the ford of the
moon, or, according to others, " Ath-
Luan," the ford of the rapids, it was
not until the reign of John lliat the
castle was erected, and it became
an important military station— so im-
portant, indeed, that when Henry
in. granted the dominion of L-eland
to Prince Edward, Athlone was ex-
pressly reserved. During the insur-
rection of 1641 the castle and town
under Lord Ranelagh were closely
besieged by the Connaught men for
22 weeks, until the garrison, reduced
by famine and disease, was reUeved
by a convoy from the Dublin army ;
and it was taken a second time
by the Parliamentary army under
Sir C. Coote. It was, however, during
James II.'s reign that Athlone was
the scene of such stirring events.
Col. Grace then held it successfully
for that king for 8 days against
William I II.'s army under Gen. Dou-
glas, who retired to make way for a
more formidable opponent. Gen. De
GinckeU, who occupied the eastern
part of the town and commenced a
cannonade lasting from the 20th to
the 30th of June, 1691, during which
time 12,000 cannon-balls and 600
shells were thrown on to the castie
and the Roscommon side of the town.
So brave a defence was offered by
the Irish army under Gen. St. Ruth,
that it was at last determined to
storm the city by assault, and the
final struggle took place at the ford
of the Shannon, the narrow bridge
over which had been well-nigh shat-
tered during the cannonade. "It
was 6 o'clock : a peal from the
steeple of the ch. g:ave tlie signal.
Prince George of Hesse Darmstadt,
and a brave soldier named Hamilton,
whose services were afterwards re-
warded with the title of Lord Boyne,
descended fii-st into the river. Then
the grenadiers lifted the Duke of
Wurtemburg on their shoulders, and
with a great shout plunged 20
abreast up to their cravats in water.
The Irish, tal^en unprepared, fired
one confused volley and fled, leaving
their commander. Maxwell, a pri-
soner. The victory was complete.
Planks were placed on the broken
Ireland.
Boute 14. — Alhlone,
125
arches of the bridge, aod pontoons
laid in the river, without any oppo-
sition on the part of the terrified
^rrison. With the loss of 12 men
killed and about 30 wounded, tiie
English had in a few minutes forced
their way into Connaught." — Mac-
auLay. St. Ruth removed his forces
from hence to Aughrim, about 15 m.
distant. The loss of Athlone is gene-
rally attributed to the overweening
confidence of St. Ruth, who, intoxi-
cated with success at the fedlure of
the first attempt of fhe English
army, "was roused firom his slum-
bers just in time to learn the irre-
mediable loss occasioned by his pre-
sumptuous folly." — Taylor. An amus-
ing allusion is made to this in * The
Battle of Aughrim ' —
•' St. i?M«A.— Dare all the force of England be
so bold
T attempt to storm so brave a town, when I
With all Hibemia's sons of war are nigh?
Return ; and If the Britons dare pursue,
Tell them St Ruth is near, and that will
do.
•• PostTnan. — Your aid would do much better
than your name."
The only remaining history of
the town is the destruction of a
great portion, including the citadel,
in 1697, from the explosion of the
magazine during a tiiunder-storm.
As seen from the rly. stat., it is
divided into 2 portions by the Shan-
non, which here, a noble and stately
stream, issues from Lough Rea in
its southward course to Limerick.
Although modem improvement has
been busy, the greater part of the
town, wMch is on the 1. bank, is
ill-built and confined; but the ce-
lebrated bridge, the scene of the
contest, was pulled down a few
years ago to make way for the
present one, as handsome and well-
planned as the former was incon-
venient. It had been built in the
reign of Elizabeth, and was only
12 ft. broad. The bridge is com-
manded by the castle, the massive
round tower of which looks more
ftncient than it probably really is, as
the whole building has been so
altered and added to at different
periods, that the only old portion is the
keep, in the centre of the court, now
used as a barrack. Like Mullingar,
Athlone is a very important military
station, and contains barracks (which
line iiiQ road from the rly. stat.)
for 1500 men, besides 15,000 stand of
arms, with hospital, and all the ne-
cessary adjimcts to a garrison town,
defended by forts and redoubts on
the Connaught side of the town. The
visitor will not fail to observe the
singular but graceful railway bridge
over which the Dubhn line is carried
across the Shannon, •* being a con-
struction on the bowstring and lattice
principle. It is entirely of iron,
supported by 12 cylindrical piers,
and is 560 ft. in extreme length,
including 2 spans over roads on
either side of the river. It con-
sists of 2 spans of 175, and 2 of 40 ft.
each, the latter separated by a pier,
formed by 4 cylinders, supporting a
swivel, which admits pf the naviga-
tion of the adjacent opens." — Fraser.
Athlone presents no archaeological
remains, with the exception of the
castle, or portion of the town wall
(of considerable height and thick-
ness), and the doorway of the house
in which Gen. Ginckell resided. The
churches are all modem, although
it formerly possessed 2 or 3 con-
ventual establishments. The parish
ch., close to the hotel, rejoices in
2 towers, one of which is isolated,
and belonged to an earlier building.
Conveyances. — By rail to Dublin and
Galway, to Roscommon and Castle-
bar, also by Great Southern Rly.
to Portarlington en route for the
S. A steamer every second day runs
down the Shannon to Clonmacnoise
and Killaloe (Rte. 34), whence there is
rail to Limerick. Daily car to Long-
ford through Ballymahon. Oar to
Parsonstown.
Distances. — Dublin, 78 m. ; Mullin-
gar, 28; BaUinasloe, 13; lissoy, 8;
Lough Rea, 2^; Roscommon, 18^;
126
Bovie 14. — Dublin to Galway.
Ireland.
Castlereagh, 33; Clonmacnoise, 8J;
Banagher, 20; Killaloe, 59; Por-
tumna, 32J.
Excursions. —
1. Lough Rea and Rindown.
2. Clonmacnoise.
3. Ballymahon.
[An excursion should be made to
the foot of Lough Rea (anc. Ribh),
one of those extraordinary though pic-
turesque expansions of the Shannon
which are so pecuhar to this river, com-
mencing about 2 m. above Athlone,
and extending N. for several m.
Although the character of the scenery
is not hilly, yet the banks are in
many parts richly wooded, as are also
the numerous islands, some of them
being of considerable size, and nearly
all possessing some ecclesiasticsd
ruins of ancient date. The principal,
are Inchcleraun, Saints' Island, Inch-
turk, Inchmore, and Hare Island,
the latter a perfect gem of woodland
scenery, aided by art in the shape of a
lodge belonging to Lord Castlemaine,
who occasionally resides here.] [An-
other visit may be paid to Bally-
mahon 14 m., passing through the
hamlet of Lissoy or Auburn. 3 m.
at Ballykeeran the road crosses the
Breensford river almost at its fall
into one of the bays of Lough Rea.
1 m. rt. is Moydrum Casfie, the
beautiful mansion of Lord Castle-
maine. Following the shore of
Lough Killinure, a small expansion
of Lough Rea, the road passes
through 5 m. Glassan, where a
branch on 1. leads to the ferry to
Hare Island. On rt. is Waterstown
House (Hon. T. Harris-Temple). 8
m., the village of Lissoy or Auburn
is supposed to have been deli-
neated by the poet Goldsmith in
his * Deserted Village.' He is said to
have been bom in this spot, although
a place called Pallas, near Bally-
mahon, also claims the honour. It
is not so clear that Lissoy was in
his mind when he wrote his cele-
brated poem; and although *The
Three Pigeons,' the apple-tree.
" The never-failing brook, the busy mill.
The decent church that topp'd the neigh*
b'ring hill,"
have always been considered by en-
thusiasts as identical with the subjects
of the poem, it is more . probable
" that everjrthing in it is English, the
feelings, incidents, descriptions, and
allusions. Scenes of the poet's youth
had doubtless risen in his memory as
he wrote, mingling with and taking
altered hue from later experiences." —
Forster's Life of Goldsmith.
14 m. BaUymahon, a small town,
prettily situated on the Inney,
which runs under a bridge of 5
arches, and fells over ledges of rock,
winding its way between wooded
islands. In the neighbourhood are
Newcastle (Hon. L. King-Harman),
Castlecove (Captain Hussy), and
Creenaghmore.] ''
From Athlone the line runs
through a dreary and uninteresting
country to
9J m. BaUinasloe Cane. Bal-atha-
na-sluigheadli) {Hotel: Railway), so
well known through Great Britain for
its enormous horse and cattle fairs
(Pop. 3911). The town lies in a low
position on the banks of the Suck
river, which intersects and in fact
divides Roscommon from Galwav.
On the eastern side are the liunatic
Asylum for Connaught, and the
ruins of Ballinasloe Castle, which
in the reign of Elizabeth was one
of the strongest fortresses in Ireland.
The outer walls only remain, and
are incorporated with a modem
residence. The great fair of the
year, which, to English eyes, presents
a scene of rare confusion, is held
from the 5th to tlie 9th of October,
partly in the neighbouring grounds
of Garbally and partly in the town.
In the park ** the herds of the most
extensive flockmasters of Connaught
generally occupy the same localities
from year to year; but there are
sometimes stiff contests between
them, in order to maintain their
groimd against intruders." The num-
Ireland.
Boute 14. — Kilconnell.
127
ber of sheep sold at this fair in 1861
was 59,641, although in some former
years as many as 97,000 have been
disposed of. In 1862, however, the
number of sales was considerably
less. Adjoining the town is Gar-
bally, the very beautiful park of
Lord Clancarty, who liberally throws
it open for the enjoyment of the
townspeople. The house contains
some good paintings.
Conveyances.^ Car to Ballybrophy
through Parsonstown and Roscrea.
Distances.— Vnraonatown, 25 J m. ;
Banagher, 18; Eyrecourt, 11 J; Au-
ghrim, 5 ; Kilconnell, 9.
Excursions. —
1. Garbally.
2. Kilconnell.
3. Aughrim.
[5 m. from Ballinasloe, on the road
to Kilconnell, is the village of Au-
ghrim, fiamous for the battle which
took place on Aughrim Hill, about
1 m. to the S., on July 12th, 1691
(just after the siege of Athlone),
between the Irish army under Gen.
St. Ruth and Sarsfield (Lord Lucan)
and the English army under Ginctel
and Talmarsh. The Irish position
on Elilcommodon HiU (now capped
by a modem ch.) was very strong,
but, notwithstanding this advantage
and the superiority of numbers, the
Irish were routed with a loss of
7000 men, besides their commander,
St. Ruth, who was slain by a cannon-
ball—
" Aughrim is no more, St. Ruth is dead,
And all his guards are from the battle fled;
As he rode dtiwn the hill he met his fall,
And died a victim to a cannon-ball."
Battle of Aughrim.
A spot by the ch. is still known
as St. Ruth's flag. 4 m. to the S.
is Lismany, the model farm of Mr.
PoUok, well worth a visit from those
who are interested in the social
progress of Ireland. 450 people are
kept constantly employed, and 700/.
is paid monthly for wages.]
98 m. 1. is the village of Kilconnell
(anc. Cil-chonaill), which may be
reached in 4 m. from Woodlawn
Stat. ; but as a car may not al-
ways be obtained, the safest plan
wiU be to visit it from Ballina-
sloe. It is celebrated for its ruined
abbey, founded in 1400 for Fran-
ciscan friars by William O'Kelly, on
the site of an earher ch. raised by
St. Connall. " As picturesque a ruin
as can be where there are neither
hills, rocks, lake, nor river, and but
ft few distant trees ; perhaps its ivy-
mantled tower and roofless gables
were better in keeping with the
waste and desolation that presided
over the place, destitute as it is of
any modem improvement and deco-
ration whatever." — Otway. It is a
cruciform ch., consisting of nave,
choir, and transept, with cloisters
and domestic buildings, and a very
graceful though slender tower of 2
stages rising from the intersection.
The Dec. windows are remarkable
for the beauty of their tracery, while
the cloisters are one of the most
perfect examples in Ireland. The
area is small, only 48 ft. square, and
is enclosed by pointed arches on each
side, the columns of which are not
carried down to the ground, but
spring from a low wall. The whole
effect is in fact " more like a cloister
ui Sicily or Spain than anything
in these islands." — Fergusson. In
the interior of the ch. are some
monuments, and a tablet to the
memory of some members of the
Trimlestown family, "whoe, being
transplanted into Conaght with others
by oiSiers of the vsvrper Cromwell,
dyed at Moinivae, 1667." A pretty
cross in the village has been restored
by the Roman Catholic clergy.
101 i m. On 1. of Woodlavm Stat,
is Woodlawn House, the seat of Lord
Ashtown. On a hill overlooking
the station rt. is a castellated edi-
fice, known as Trench's Monument,
and used as a mausoleum for the
Ashtown family. From hence the
128
Boute 14. — Dublin to Gcdway,
Ireland.
rly. runs over a miserable, bleak,
and stony country to
113§ m. Athenry (with accent
on last syllable) {Hotel: Eailway)
(Rte. 27), a miserable town, which,
as far as ruined antiquities go, is a
veritable Tadmor in the wilderness.
It was thought by Sir James Ware
to have been, with great probability,
the chief town of the Anteri, whom
Ptolemy places in this part of Ireland.
At all events, it was of importance
during the Anglo-Norman invasion,
having been the first raised and the
principal town of the De Burghs and
Berminghams, whose fortress even
now exists. Under the shelter of
its defences many ecclesiastical esta>
blishments rose up, amongst which
were a Dominican abbey founded
in 1261, which became the favourite
ch. and burial-place erf the Earls of
Ulster and all the chief Irish families ;
and a Franciscan priory,, founded in
1464 by the Earl of Kildare. The
importance of the town, however,
decayed in 1577, when the 2 sons of
the Earl of Olanricarde nearly de-
stroyed it by fire,, a proceeding
which was again repeatoi (it hav-
ing been rebuilt in the mean
time) by the northern Irish in
1596. The castle consists of a mas-
sive quadrangular keep surrounded
by outworks. It is of the usual
square unomamented style,, and
lighted by a few eylet-holes. The
walls of the town are in toler-
able keeping, and retain a castel-
lated gateway, the doorway of
which presents some examples of
interlacing work. The Dominican
abbey is a cruciform church, of
which the intersecting tower has
disappeared. The E. window, of 4
lights, is of beautiful design. The
whole of the ruins, together with the
modem ch., are surrounded by as
miserable a collection of hovels as
can well be seen in any Irish town.
In the neighbourhood of Athenry
are Castle Lambert (W. Lambert,
Esq.), Castle Ellen (W. P. Lambert,
Esq.), and Moyode (R. B. P^rsse,
Esq.).
Conveyances. — By rail to Dublin
and Gralway. By rail to Tuam.
Coach to Westport. Car to Lough-
rea.
Distances. — Galway, 13 m. ; Oran-
more, 8; Loughrea, 11; Tuam, 16;
Monivea, 7.
Passing on 1. the square fortress of
Derrydonnel, the traveller reaches
121 m. Oranmorey a village situ-
ated at the head of a creek which
forms part of Galway Bay. Here is
another square tower, built by the
Earl of Clanricarde, who, on the
breaking out of the war in 1641,
"placed it under the command of
Capt. Willoughby, who also held the
fort at Galway, and surrendered both
of them to the Catholic forces in
1643." — Lewis. From hence the rail
runs through a dreary and stony
district, though the monotony is soon*
relieved by exquisite views of the
bay of Galway, which stretches out
to the W. as far as the eye can
see. Crossing an arm of the bay
known as Lough Athaliah, on the N.
shore of which are Merview (P. Joyce,
Esq.) and R'enmore (P. Lynch, Esq.),
the tourist arrives at
126 J m. the ancient city of Gralway
(Rte. 20) ( Hotels : Railway, comfort-
able ; Black's ; Kilroy's).
Ireland.
Bouie 15. — Enfidd to Droghedd,
12.9
ROUTE 15.
FROM EDENDERRY AND ENFIELD TO
OROGHEDA, THROUGH TRIM AND
NAVAN.
Enfield (Bte. 14), a station, distant
26J m. from Dublin, on the Mid-
land Great Western Ely., is the
point from whence the traveller
commences his excursion from the
source of the Boyne to its mouth.
A daily car runs from the stat. to
Edenderry, 11 m., but it is better
to be independent of this. At Eden-
derry another conveyance may be
procured to proceed to Trim.
7 m. Cfirberry Castle occupies a
conspicuous position on the summit
of an isolated hill (471 ft.), which,
from the comparative level of the
country round, commands very wide
views.
The nuns of Carberry (anc. Cairbre-
va-ciardha) are extensive, although
not all of the same date. The original
castle was built by the De Berming-
hams, some of the earhest English
settlers within the Pale, and suifered
many rude attacks during the troubled
times of the 15th cent., having been
more than once demolished and
burnt. From the De Berminghams
it passed into the hands of the
Colleys or CJowleys (temp. 1548), the
ancestors of the femily of Wellesley,
one Richard CoUey having been
created Lord Momington in 1746.
The general style of the*building is
that of a manorial castellated house
of James I.'s time, embracing all
the characteristic features of pointed
gable, graceful chimneys, and mul-
lioned windows, which are particu-
larly good on the eastern side. Some
of the chimnejrs have no less than 16
faces, and are beautifully moulded;
" but on a nearer inspection we per-
ceive, from the character of the ma-
sonry, the massive walls, the deep
stone-roofed donjons, the principal of
which runs for 85 ft. underneath the
great keep from S. to. N.. the mani-
fest antiquity of the entire of the
western end, and the general arranger
ment of the whole, tihat the present
ruin consists of structures which
would appear to be as old as the
12th cent."— iSfer W, WUde. On the
summit of the hill are some ancient
Pagan remains, and the ruined ch. of
Temple Death.
About IJ m. to the N. is the
ruin of Mylerstown Castle, consisting
of a lofty tower. This was also a
fortress of the De Berminghams.
The view from the summit of Car-
berry hill stretches over the counties
of Meath, Westmeath, Carlow, KH-
dare, Dublin, King's, and Queen's ;
looking westward, the hills of Cro-
ghan, Edenderry, and Carrick rise
conspicuous from the flats. S. are
the ranges of Kildare, including the
Chair; while, nearer home, the
various castles and churches of Car-
berry, Mylerstown, Edenderry, Kin-
nafed, and Carrick are dotted about.
At the foot of the hill is New-
berry Hall (F. Pilkington, Esq.).
11 m. Edenderry {Hotel: Now-
lan's), a neat, well-to-do little town,
under the care of the Marquess
of Downshire, the owner of the
soil. A statue in memory of the late
Marquess occupies a conspicuous
position near the ch. The castle of
the Blundells picturesquely crowns
the limestone hill that overhangs it.
Although not near enough to be
much benefited by the rly., it has
the advantage of a branch from the
Grand Cantd. The geologist should
visit the quarry in the lower limestone
at Killan, a little to the S., which
contains, in the lower portion, hori-
zontal beds of black marble, and
resting conformably on them crys-
taUine limestones, jointed vertically,
in such a way as to appear columnar.
jyistances. — Enfield, 11 m. ; Clo-
nard, 6; PhiHpstown, llj.
G 3
130
Boute 15. — Enfield to Drogheda,
Ireland^
Conveyances. — Car daily to En-
field.
In the demesne is Trinity Well,
the source of the river Boyne, 289 ft.
above the sea. As might be ex-
pected from its varied course, and
the historical incidents which every-
where mark it, the Boyne has been
the subject of divers legends in its
infiincy, the basis of all which ap-
pears to be that it was so named
after an Irish princess, Boan or
Boinne, who was drowned in it.
From hence it has a course more or
less sluggish for about 70 m. to the
sea at Drogheda, running generally
from S.W. to N.E. Many parts are
extremely beautiful, while all are
more or less replete with ruins, Pa-
^n remains, and scenes of historical
mterest. Probably no river in Ire-
land possesses so many celebrated
towns and neighbourhoods : —
" Ecce Boan qui Trim celer influit, istins
tindas
Subdere se salsis Drogheda cemit aquis."
Necham, 1217.
Continuing on the road to Clonard,
the tourist arrives at 11 J m. the ruins
of Monasteroris, a small ch. of the
14th cent, with a double belfry ; also
portions of a monastery with walls of
great thickness, and, on an adjoining
tumulus, of a square dovecot. This,
too, was a foimdation of the Ber-
minghams, viz. Sir John, who was
also Earl of Louth in 1325. Monas-
teroris is in Irish, Mainister Feorais,
which latter word, as Sir W. Wilde has
pointed out, is the poetic translation
of Pierce, the first of the Berming-
hams, a family well known by the
Irish natives under the name of Clan-
Feorais, or the Clan of Pierce. Close
by is Monasteroris House (J. Hamil-
ton, Esq.).
The monastery sustained a long
siege by the Earl of Surrey, the
Lord Lieutenant, who marched into
the district of Offiily (as it was
termed) against the O'Moores who
had invietded the Pale.
13J m. a road on rt. leads across
the river to Kinnafad Castle, also
founded by the Bermmghams, whoap-
pear to have dotted the whole country
with their strongholds. It is a large
square tower, lighted by a few narrow
windows, and more remarkable for its
massive plainness than for any archi-
tectural features. It was doubtless
erected to command the ford, for, in
deepening the bed of the river from
Kinnafad to Edenderry, numbers of
weapons and celts, togetiier with
human remains, were discovered.
They ore now in the Museum of
the Royal Irish Academy. The
tourist should proceed by this road,
as he wiU thus obtain the most inte-
resting points on the Boyne.
15i m. is the partly inhabited
fortress of Grange Castle, near which
the Boyne receives a considerable
accession in the Yellow River, that
flows in here from the W., separating
Meath from King's County. About
1 m. to the rt. is Cairick Hill, rising
387 ft. with the same conspicuous
outline as that of Carberry. Like
Carberry too, it possesses the ruins
of a castle, the chief court of
the treacherous Baron Pierce de
Bermingham. Here, " a.d. 1305,
Muiiagh O'Connor of OffaUe, Mid-
morrey his brother, and Calvagh
O'Connor, with 29 of the choicest of
their family, were treacherously killed
by Pyers Bermyngham, within the
castle of Carrickffeorus." — Armais of
Clonmdcnoise.
Of the castle there now remains only
the S. wall of a high keep, and an
adjoining ch. of the 13th or beginning
of the 14th cent., with its E. and S.
walls. Both the W. and E. gables
have belfries. The hill of (Srrick
consists of mountain limestone, but
on the summit is a large block
of trap, similar to that of Croghan,
from which place it was doubtless
transported by means of local drift
action. It bears the name of the
Witches' Bock, and was originally
thrown at one of the saints from
Ireland. Bouie 15. — BcJlyhogan — Clonard.
131
Croghan by an individual of that
profession.
An indented flat stone, probably
marking the site of a cell, is also
called the Mule's Leap on the same
legendary grounds. Stretching along
the banks of the Boyne is &e de-
mesne of Bahin (Bev. Mr. Palmer).
18^ m. close to the river side is
BaUybogan Abbey, a very large cru-
ciform ch. (of which the tmnsepts
have been destroyed), founded in the
12th cent, by Jordan Oomin, for
Augustinian canons. The priory was
burned down in the 15th cent, and
subsequently the lands and property
fell into the hands of the Berming-
hams. The length of the ch. is 193 ft.,
but there are remarkably few archi-
tectural decorations about it. The
W. gable is lighted by a long slender
single window of E. Eng. date. In
the N. wall of the choir are 3 trefoil-
arched sedUia. At the junction of
the 3 roads near the abbey is a
picturesque holy well.
[From hence a road recrosses the
Boyne en route for Kinnafad. The
toiuist may go to Clonard this way
for the askke of visiting Ticroghan
Castle ; but the distance is greater,
and he will probably have seen
as many castles as he could wish
before reaching Trim. It is worth
recording, however, that when this
stronghold was besieged by the Par-
liamentary forces under Col. Eey-
nolds, the siege was about being
raised, when it was discovered that
the defenders were firing silver
bullels, which was such an evident
proof of their want of ammunition,
that the opposing forces set to work
again and soon reduced the fortress.
Crossing the river at Leinster
Bridge, notice between the road
and the river a mound where 150
Irishmen lie buried, part of a body
of insurgents who laid siege in 1798
to the mansion belongmg to Mr.
Tywel, which he with 27 yeomen
successfully held out for a whole day.]
22| m. Clonard now presents very
little for the inspection of the ar-
chaBologist, but carries interest with
it from its old associations, which
extend back for the last 1000 years.
Clonard or Cluain loraird ("The
Betirement on the Western Height'*)
was in early times the most famous
bishopric in Meath, the first bishop
being St Finian (a.d. 520), one of
the immediate successors of St.
Patrick. It was also the centre of
learning in Ireland, and, like Llan-
twit in S. Wales and Bardsey Island
in N. Wales, was the seat of a
world-£amed college, which numbered
3000 students^ including St Kieran,
St. Columb, and all the principal
saints. Not onl^ for its learning,
but for its hospitality, was it cele-
brated, as visitors from Armorica and
all parts of Europe were constantly
journeying hither. The buildings
formerly consisted of abbeys, chapels,
cloictheachs or round towers, &c. ;
but of these absolutely no trace is
left, though many of them existed at
the beginning of this cent., and were
described by ArchdaU in his *Monas-
ticon.' From the Annals we learn
the misfortunes which attended
Clonard : that in 1045 it was set on
fire thrice in one week ; that in 1136
it was sacked and plundered by the
people of Brefhey ; and so on with
various repetitions until it has be-
come the wilderness it is. The only
traces of archaeological interest are a
fragment of corbel over the door in
the tower of the ch-, and in the inte-
rior a singular font of grey marble,
in shape an octagonal basin, the
external panels of which are each
divided into 2 compartments, and are
ornamented with very curious figures
and scriptural subjects, representing
the Fhght into Egypt, the Baptism
in the Jordan, &c.
Near the ch. stands a singular
tumulus or moat crowned by a
spreading ash-tree. This was evi-
dently sepulchral; but a little to
the N. W. IS a rath (military), very per-
fect consisting ** of an external fosse.
132
Boute 15. — Enfield to Drogheda,
Ireland.
encircling, a raised ditch, within
which we fiud a level platform, ele-
vated somewhat above the surround-
ing plain, but not so high as the
earthen circle which encloses it" —
Wilde,
[From Clonard, the tourist who
does not wish to extend his wander-
ings to Trim may rejoin the Midland
Ely., at the Hill of Down Stat., 2 m.
distant.]
27 m. Keeping on the 1. bank of
the Boyne and crossing a tributary
stream, we arrive at Killyon (an old
seat of the Magans), near which are
the scanty remains of an ancient
priory, and a little further on Donore
Castle^ a well-preserved square for-
tress (like a peel-tower) of the date
of the Anglo-Norman invasion. The
river is here crossed at Inchmore
Bridge.
32 m. rt., near Doohstown House,
the road again approaches the river,
which has begun to improve very
considerably in the character of its
scenery.
35 m. 1. Newhaggard House ; and
beyond, though on the opposite side
of the stream, is Trimlestownf the
ruined seat of Lord Trimleston. It
dates from the 15th cent., and
played a somewhat conspicuous part
in the Parliamentary war, during
which time it was garrisoned and
fortified for 10 years.
36 m. Trim (anc. Ath-truim) (Hotel:
Darling's) has been graphically de-
scribed by Sir W. Wilde. ** To see
Trim aright, the tourist must approach
it by the Blackbull-roeid from Dublin,
when all the glorious ruins which
crowd this historic locality, and which
extend over a space of above a mile,
burst suddenly upon him; the re-
mains of St. John's Friary and cas-
tellated buildings at the bridge of
Newtown — the stately abbey of St.
Peter and St. Paul a little farther
on, raising aloft its tall, light, and
ivy-mantled windows — the neigh-
bouring chapel, with its sculptured
tombs and monumental tablets — the
broad green lawns, through whicli
the Boyne winds, between that and
Trim— the grey massive towers of
King's John Castle, with its outward
walls and barbican, the gates and
towers and bastion — the fosse, moat,
and chapel — the sheepgate and por-
tions of the town wall —and above all,
the tall, commanding form of the
Yellow Steeple, which seems the
guardian genius of the surrounding
ruins."
The Yellow Steeple is supposed to
occupy the site of the original abbey
of St. Mary, founded in 432 by St.
Patrick ; indeed Trim is believed to
have been one of the oldest of the
Irish sees. The present tower was
erected in the Anglo-Norman period,
and is a lofty biulding of 5 stages,
125 ft. in height. The W. wall and
part of the N. and S. have been de-
stroyed, according to some by the
cannon of Cromwell, thus leaving the
interior exposed to view. From its
great height it was probably built
as a signal and watch tower over
the adjoining country. Amoijgst the
ruined portions of the wall near the
Yellow Steeple is a round-headed
arch, known as the Sheepgate, which
with the Watergate are the only re-
maining 2 entrances of the old town.
The abbey of Trim was rich and
Eowerful, and cultivated intimate re-
itions with the Court of England.
N. of the town and without the
old walls are scanty remains of the
Black Friary of the Dominicans,
founded in the 13th cent., by Geoflfrey
de Geneville, or de Join^e, Lord
of Meath, as famous a crusader and
military knight as he afterwards
became a good ecclesiastic, of whom
it was written —
" Ipse post militise bursum temporalis
lllusiratus gratill doni spiritnalis
Esse Xti cupiens miles specialis
In hoc domo monachus factus est claus*
tralis."
Of the Grey Friary of Observan-
tines no traces remain. The Castle
of King John, who by the way had
Ireland.
Boute 15. — Trm»
133
no connection with it save that of
lodging there on a visit to Ireland,
was originally founded by Hugh de
Lacy in 1173, who then departed to
England, leaving it in custody of
Hugh Tyrrel.
Roderic O'CJonnor, King of Con-
naught, marched against the fortress
to destroy it; but Tyrrel, finding
himself too weak for defence, set
it on fire and burnt it. The pre-
sent building in extent surpasses any-
thing in the country, and is beUeved
to have been rebuilt by one Richard
Pipard, although it is asserted by
Camden that this individual lived
previous to the grant of Meath being
made to Lacy.
The ruins occupy an area of 2
acres, and consist of a lofty keep
80 ft. in height, and flanked by
rectangular towers abutting from
each side, so that it presents exter-
nally a figure of 20 sides. The outer
wall is 486 yds. in length, and is
strengthened by 10 circular towers at
equal distances. By means of a
moat which ran all round, the waters
of the Boyne could be let in and thus
completely isolate the castle. The
barbican, portcullis, and drawbridge
are still in remarkable preservation.
To describe in detail the numerous
events of which Trim was the scene
would be to write the history of
mediaeval Ireland : it will suffice to
mention briefly that Richard Earl of
Ulster held a gay court here in
Edward II.'s reign— that Lord Glou-
cester and Henry of Lancaster, after-
wards Henry IV.. were imprisoned
here by Richard 11. — and that suc-
cessive parliaments were held, at one
of which a mint was established.
And not only is Trim celebrated for
its heroes of early times, but it can
boast of being the abode at one
time of the Duke of Wellington, who
Uyed in a house in Dubhngate-street,
at the top of which a lofty pillar has
been erected, crowned by his statue.
Trim possessed 2 other fortress-
es known as Nangle's Castle and
Talbot's Castle, built by Su- John
Talbot, the Lord Lieutenant of Ire-
land and the Scourge of France, in
1415. This latter building was con-
verted into the Diocesan School
where WeUington received his early
education. The parish ch. is also
an ancient edifice, and has a steeple
erected in 1449 by Richard Duke of
York.
In addition to these objects of
interest are a few modem county
buildings, of which the gaol, one of
the mc«t complete in the comity, is
worth an inspection. About 3 m.
from the town on the DubHn road,
and on both sides of the Boyne,
which is crossed at the village of
Newton Trim^ are the extensive
remains of the Abbey of St. Peter
and St. Paul. On the N. bank are
the cathedral remains, which exhibit
some fine features in Transition-
Norman. It was founded at the
beginning of the 13th cent, by Simon
Rochfort, the same ecclesiastic who
removed the see of Clonard hither.
" Broad strips of masonry, placed at a
considerable distance apart, ph)ject
from the walls of the ch. fipon the
exterior, a featiwe never found but in
early work, and which is generally
characteristic of the Norman period.
Within, several chastely-formed de-
corated corbel-shafts remain, and
support portions of the ribs by which
the vaulted roof was sustained. The
windows are of the lancet form, witli
piers between, and the mouldings
which nm round them are orna-
mented with beautifully designed
bands. Sedilia of Norm, architec-
ture may be seen in the wall, to the
rt. of the space anciently occupied
by the. altar." — Wdkeman. At the
other end of the bridge are the ruins
of the castle, a large rectangular
keep with square towers at 2 of the
angles, and a 2nd smaller tower lower
down. There is a good 3-light
window in a small chapel within the
ruins, the whole of which taken
134
Boute 15. — Enfield to Drogheda.
Jkelaisd,
together combine in a singular de-
gree the reUgious and the military.
In a small ch. hard by are some
remains of imposts, tombs, capitals,
&c., recovered from the ruins, and
placed here by the archseological
care of Rev. Mr. Butler, vicar of Trim.
There is also an alteur-tomb bearing
the recumbent figures of Sir Lucas
Dillon and his wife, Chief Baron of
the Exchequer in the reign of Eliza-
beth. On the sides are the arms of
the Dillons, Baths, and Bamewalls.
At the point where the Dublin road
leaves the river is Scurloughstoum
Castle, a singular massive peel-tower,
or rectangular keep with 2 round
towers placed diagonally at the
comers. It was called after its
builder, "William de Scarloug, an
Ang.-Norm. settler in 1180, and in
later times suffered somewhat at the
hands of Cromwell, who, being chal-
lenged by the garrison, fired a cannon-
ball which caused a crack in one of
its sides.
Conveyances.^ Rail to Dublin.
Distances. — ^Kells, 16m.; Enfield,
10; Tara, 9; Dangan, 4; Bective,
5 ; Clonard, 14 ; Navan, 13 J.
Pn an excursion to Dangan Castle
(4 m.). the tourist will pass 1^ m.
Laracor, a quiet secluded little village
associated with the name of Dean
Swift, for it was once his residence.
" Here also Uved Stella and Mrs.
Dingley, and here they sauntered
through the quiet roads with Dr.
Raymond, the vicar of Trim, and
with the future author of GulHver
and the * Drapier's Letters.! " The
association is all that is left, as the
dwelling of the witty divine has long
ago crumbled to ruins.
4 m. Dangan was one of the seats
of the Wellesley family, in which the
late Duke of Wellington passed much
of his early days, though he was
not bom here, as some biographers
make out. There is little to interest
in tiie present building, which con-
sists of a keep, part of the old for-
tress, and attached to it a mansion
in the Italian style. It is now almost
a ruin, having tallen into the posses-
sion of a careless owner, who let the
whole estate go to rack, a proceed-
ing that was considerably hastened
by a fire.]
38 m. Scurloughstown Castle (see
ante) ; and 39 m. on the opposite
side of the Boyne is Rathnally House
(W. Thompson, Esq), where the
scenery of the river begins greatly .to
improve, and to assume a peculiarly
English character. The banks rise
to a considerable height, thus shutting
out the river from the road.
40J m. 1. Truhley Castle is a fortress
of about the same importance as
Scurloughstown, thoug-h very little
is now left save the portion of a tower
and a round pigeon-house. It is said
that Cromwell slept a night here
during his passage up the Boyne.
41 m. 1. Close to Bective Bridge,
on the 1. bank, are the ruins of
the noble abbey of Bective, one of
the finest of the many noble remains
of this district. Bective was founded
for the Cistercian order in the 12th
cent, by O'Melaghlin, King of
Meath, who endowed it with 250. fat
acres. Here was buried the body
of Hugh de Lacy, treacherously
murdered by a countryman while he
was superintending the building of a
new castle at Darrow. His head was
taken to the ch. of St Thomas in
Dublin, which caused such umbrage
to the monks of that establishment,
that they appealed to the Pope, who
decided that the abbey of Bective
should give up the remainder of the
corpse. Very little remains to show
the whereabouts of the ch., the
whole style of the abbey indicating a
remarkable union of monastic with
miUtary arrangements. It is in
good preservation, and enables us
to trace the various apartments and
halls. The general plan of the build-
ings is that of a quadrangle, with a
strong battiemented tower, contain-
ing a vaulted hall, at the S. W. comer.
Ireland.
Boute 15. — Tara.
135
In the centre are the cloisters, the E.
Eng. arches of which are remarkably
beautiful. They are cinquefoiled
and supported on light clustered
pillars. ** The featherings are mostly
plain, but several are ornamented
with flowers or leaves, and upon one
a hawk-like bird is sculptured. The
bases, which are circular, rest upon
square plinths, the angles of which
are ornamented with a leaf^ as it
were, growing out of the base mould-
ing."— Wakeman. From the splay-
ing of the windows in the N. wall of
the cloister, it might also have served
as the S. wall of the ch.
The domestic portion of the monas-
tery is on the E. side, and is remark-
able for the great thickness of the
wedls, through which flues are carried
up to be ended in tapering chimney-
shafts. Much of this part of ihe
building is of later date.
[About 5 m. to the rt. of Bective
is a spot that should be visited by
every Irish traveller, not for the
sake of ruined castle or abbey,
but for its old associations with sdl
that was great and noble in Ireland's
early history. The hill of Tara was
for ages the centre of Ireland, the
palace, the burial-place of her kings,
and the sacred spot from which edicts
were promulgated and justice dis-
pensed; and yet nothing is left to
mark this former metropolis but some
grassy mounds and a few pillars.
The 4th of the royal palaces "was
that of Teamhair or Tarah, which
originally belonged to the province
of Leinster, where the states of the
kingdom met in a parliamentary iray,
when several wise regulations were
made for the better governing of the
state." — Comer ford. Indeed, so sacred
was the locaUfy considered, that not
even a king could reside there who
had any personal blemish. Accord-
ingly we read in the Irish MS. entitled
* Senchas na Relec ' that Cormac, the
Great King, held his court at Tara,
until his eye was destroyed by Engus,
when he was obliged to go and live
at Cennannus or Kells. After the
death of Dermot in the year 563, the
hill was deserted in consequence of a
curse pronounced against the king
by St. Buadan, and subsequently
it was the scene of a decisive battle
in which the power of the Danes
in Meath was overthrown. The
present remains consist of certain
mounds or duns laid down in the
Ordnance Map as Rath Biogh, Bath
Laoghaire, Hath Grainne, and Bath
Caelchu.
Of these the most important was
Bath Biogh, of oval form, 850 ft.
long, withm the enclosure of which
rises up a mound, known as the
Forradh, and another called Teach
Cormac, the House of Cormac. The
Forradh is flattened at the top and
surrounded by 2 lines of earth, with
a ditch between. It is conspicuous
from a single pillar stone, which has
been suggested by Dr. Petrie with
great probability to be no other than
3ie celebrated lia Fail, or Stone
of Destiny, upon which for many
ages the monarchs of Ireland were
crowned, and which is generally sup-
posed to have been removed from
Ireland to Scotland for the coronation
of Fergus Mac Eark, a prince of the
blood-royal of Ireland, there having
been a prophecy that, in whatever
country this famous stone was pre-
served, a king of the Scotic race
should reign. Teach Cormac is
joined to the Forradh on the S.E.,
and is a double enclosure of about
140 ft. in diameter. On the N. of
the Forradh is the Old Hall or Teach
IVIiodhchuarta, consisting of 2 parallel
lines of earth running N. and S.,
with 6 openings on each side denotirg
the ancient entrances. It was 360
ft. long by 40 ft., and was evidently
intended for the accommodation of a
large number at the same time.
" The eating-hall had 12 stalls in each
wing, tables and passages round them;
16 attendants on each side— 8 to the
astrologers, historians, and secretaries
in the rere of the hall, and 2 to each
136
Baute 15. — Enfield to Drogheda,
Ireland.
table at the door — 100 guests in all :
2 oxen, 2 sheep, and 2 hogs at each
meal were divided equally on each
side." — M88. Between the Rath
Riogh and the Old Hall is a mound
known as the King's Chair, and
N. of the latter are the Raths
Grainne and Caelchu. A road lead-
ing to the N. was the Slighe Fan
na-Carbad, or Slope of the Chariots.
The visitor to this ancient mausolemn
of Ireland's glories will sympathize
with the poet in his melancholy
strain : —
* No more to chiefs and ladies bright
The harp of Tara swells.
The chord alone that breaks at night
Its tale of ruin tells." — Moore,
To go back to a yet more ancient
period, the geologist will be interested
to know that both the Hills of Tara
and Skreen are composed of rocks of
the coal-measure formation, which
abound in Posidonomya.]
42 m. on a small strip of land,
between the river and a tributary
brooklet, are the ruins of Clady
ch., remarkable for possessing a
transept, a feature unusual in Irish
early churches. In the S. chapel
is a ^ood E. Eng. window with
cinquefoil arches. The brook is
crossed by a singular bridge of 2 un-
equal arches, which are supposed by
some antiquaries to be coeval with
the ch. A discovery was made near
the ch. of 2 subterranean chambers
of beehive-shape, formed of rows of
stones, each layer of which projects a
little beyond the layer below. So
far they are similar to the chambers
at Newgrange (p. 139), but with
this difference, that the dome in the
latter springs from upright pillars and
does not commence from the groimd,
as it does at Clady. The chambers
are 9 ft. high, and are connected by
a small passage about 9 ft. long.
" There can be little doubt that they
are to be referred to Pagan times,
before the use of the arch or the
advantage of mortar was known, and
were probably employed by some of
the very early people of this island
as places of security, temporary habi-
tations, and granaries." — Wilde. It
is unfortunate, however, that the
beehive houses have so fallen in
that it is very diflficult for a
stranger to make them out. On
the same side of the river is Bective
House, the residence of R. Bolton,
Esq. Opposite is Assey CasUe, a
fortoess resembling the numerous
Boyne castles, being a square keep
with circular towers at alternate
angles. There are also some ecclesi-
astical ruins hard by. Following the
course of the river are BalSnter
House and Bridge (45 m.), with
Dowdstown House, on the rt. bank ;
ArdsaUagh House, the Elizabethan
seat of the Duke of Bedford, on the
1. ; after which the tourist arrives at
47 i m. Kilcamy from whence the
road crosses to the 1. bank to Navan.
Before crossing, he may diverge
about i m. to the rt., to visit the
ruined ch. of Kilcam, which formerly
contained one of the most perfect and
beautiful fonts in the country. To
prevent annihilation, the usual fate of
every rehc in Irish churches, it was
buried, but afterwards dug up and
placed in its present position in the
Rom. Cath. chapel at Johnstone. The
shaft is plain, but the basin is elabo-
rately ornamented with a series of 12
niches, each containing a carved figure.
Two of them indeed contain 2 figures,
of which one compartment represents
Christ blessing the Virgin Mary. In
all the others are figures of the
Apostles, carved with extraordinary
delicacy, and the utmost atten-
tion to expression and costimie.
Each niche is surmounted by a small
crocket.
[If the tourist prefers crossing the
Boyne at Ballinter Bridge, he will
pass near the ruins of Cannistown
ch., a 13tfi cent, ch., with a remark-
ably good circular choir arch and E.
window.]
About ^ m. below Kilcam Bridge
is Athlumney Castle, a most pic-
Ireland, Boute 15. — Donaghmore— Castle Dexter,
137
turesque fortress, or rather fortified
mansion, of the 16th cent. At one
end is an ivy-covered tower, adjoin-
ing the more modem mansion with
its gables and mullioned windows.
It is told of the former owner of this
castle, Sir Launcelot Dowdall, that,
rather than suffer the Prince of
Orange to enter beneath his roof, as
he had reason to suppose he would
do, he himself set fire to his ancestral
home.
49^ m. Navan {Hotel: Brady's)
(Rtes. 14, 16).
From hence the road skirts the
beautiful grounds of Black Castle
(F. Rothwell, Esq.) to 51 m. Bonagh-
more, remarkable for its church and
round tower. In early times the
great ch. of Domnachmor was cele-
brated for the veneration in which it
was held, on account of the sanctity
of St. Cassanus, a disciple of St.
Patrick, who particularly confided
this ch. to his care. The old build-
ing, however, has evidently given
place to a later one of the 13th cent.,
erected by the Anglo-Norman settlers.
The round tower is similar in form
to that at Kells (Rte. 16 , and is con-
sidered by Dr. Petrie to be of the
10th cent. Its height is 100 ft., and
the circumference at its base is 66 ft. ,*
but the top has been of late years re-
paired, though not in a very accurate
manner, for it has not the conical apex
nor the upper windows so peculiar
to Irish towers. ** The doorway is
remarkable for having a figure of our
Saviour crucified, sculptured in relievo
on its keystone and the stone imme-
diately above it. This doorway,
which is placed at an elevation of
12 ft. from the base of the tower,
measures 5 ft. 2 in. in height, and its
inclined jambs are 2 ft. 3 in. asunder
at the siU, and 2 ft. at the spring of
the arch. It will be perceived that
there is a hiraian head carved on
each side of the door, the one partly
on the band and the other outside
it."— Petrie. The fact of there being
sculpture over the door has been used
by some antiquaries as a proof that
it was an after work, which would
consequently throw the origin of the
tower into Pagan times.
52 m. rt. on the bank of the river
opposite Ardmulchan is the ruined
fortress of Dunmoe, an Anglo-Norm,
castle of about the 16th cent. It had
its share of hard treatment in its
time, and in 1641 held its ground
so bravely against the Irish force sent
against it that the assailants induced
the commander, Captain Power, to
surrender by means of a forged order
from the Lords Justices. The river
feice is protected laterally by 2 cir-
cular towers, and it occupies a very
fine position, probably overlooking
an ancient ford.
53i m. 1. Stackallan House, the
seat of Viscount Boyne.
55 m. rt., nearly opposite the
wooded eminences of Beauparc (Rte.
16), are the ruins of Castle Dexter,
said to have been erected by one of
the Flemings, the early lords of Slane,
but supposed with greater probability
to have been built by the D'Exeter
family, a Connaught sept who were
located in Meath. It is a rambhng,
ivy-covered ruin, beautifully situated,
but not possessing any very remark-
able features. A little higher up is
Cruicetown Lock and the Fall of
Stackallan, above which the river is
crossed at Broadboyne Bridge. " The
broad reach below the bridge has
been supposed by some antiquaries
to be in the vicinity of Brugh-na-
Boinne, where the monarchs of Tara
were interred of old ; but we think
that the evidence is in favour of the
locality beyond Slane." — Wilde.
The traveller by road wiU notice
nearly parallel with Castle Dexter
the broken shaft of Baronstown Cross,
the inscription on the sides showing
that it was erected in 1590 by the
Dowdall family. •
57 m. Slane, in early days called
Ferta-fear-feig {Inn: Dean's}, a
neat pretty town, in days goae by
the residence and burial-place of
138
Boute 15. — Enfield to Drogheda.
Ireland.
King Slanius, of whom it was said,
** This Slanius is entombed at a hill in
Meath, which of himis named Slane."
On a bank overlooking the river
is Slane Castle, the modem residence
of the Marquis of Oonyngham, who
had the honour of a visit here from
King George IV. The archasologi-
cal tourist will find more interest in
the ruins of the ch. and monastery,
so beautifully placed on the hill
above the town, that is worth ascend-
ing for the sake of the view, which
Sur W. Wilde justly considers to
equal that from Richmond Hill, and
which embraces the whole course of
the Boyne from Trim to Drogheda,
with the classic hills of Skreen
and Tara, and the mounds that
mark the burial-places of the kings.
The best part of the abbey ruins is
a noble tower, with a round-headed
doorway on the western side, and a
good Decorated Flamboyant window.
The remains of the monastery are
some little distance to the N.E. An
abbey must have existed here for
some time, as we read that in 948 the
cloictheach or round tower of Slane
was burned by the Danes, togetiier
with the crozier and the bells, ** the
best of bells." Previous to this time
tliere was an establishment of Canons
Regular, in which Dagobert King
of France was educated. After being
destroyed by the Danes the abbey
gradually decayed, until it was re-
stored by Sir Christopher Fleming
in 1512. There are in the enclo-
sure some singular gravestones, one
of them formed of 2 headstones,
shaped like the gable of a house.
Sir W. Wilde considers it with great
probability to be of greater antiquity
than any Christian t-omb in Ireland.
On the western brow of the hill,
above the town, is a large circular
rath, and on the same side of the river
are the interesting ruins of the Her-
mitage of St. EfCy the 1st Bishop of
Slane, consecrated by St. Patrick at
the beginning of the 6th cent., whose
piety was so great, that " his custom
was to remain immersed in the Boinn
up to his 2 armpits from morning till
evening, having his Psalter before
him on the strand, and constantly
engaged in prayer." The building,
which contains the tomb oi the Earl
of Drogheda, is of different dates,
and the visitor will notice the fleur-
de-lis and the rose ornaments on tlie
inner pointed doorway. Also on the
walk above, a stone, probably belong-
ing to a tomb, on which 12 rather
elaborate figures are sculptured.
On the opposite side of the river,
close to Slane Bridge, are the ruins
of the ch. and castle of Fennor, that
need not detain the visitor.
Distances. — Drogheda, 8 m. j Na-
van, 7 J.
The district on the 1. bank of the
Boyne, extending from within IJ m.
of Slane to the spot where the river
Mattock joins the Boyne, was the
Brugh-na-Boinney the royal cemetery
of the Fort of the Boyne, the great
burying-ground of the kings of Tara,
an account of which is given in an
article of an Irish MS., entitled * Sen-
chas na Relec,' or History of the Ce-
meteries, translated by Dr. Petrie.
From this it appears thatCormac king
of Tara, having come to his death by
the bone of a salmon sticking in his
throat, desired his people not to
bury him at Brugh (because it was
a cemetery of idolaters), but at
Ros-na-righ with his face to the E.
His servants, however, came to the
resolution to bury him at Brugh, but
the Boyne swelled up three times, so
tliat they could not come. A poet
of West Connaught writes as fol-
lows : —
" The three cemeteries of Idolaters are,
The cemetery of Tailten, the select.
The cemetery of the ever-fair Cniadian,
And the cemetery of Brugh.
The host of great Meath are burled
In the middle of the lofty Brugh ;
The great Ultonlans used to bury
At Tailten with pomp."
In the area just mentioned "we find the
remains of no less than 17 sepulchral
barrows, some of these — the smaller
Ireland.
Boute 15. — Tumuli : Newgrange.
139
ones — situated in the green pasture-
lands which form the immediate
valley of the Boyne, while the 3 of
greatest magnitude, Dowth, Knowth,
and Newgrange, are placed on the
summit of the ridge which bounds
the valley on the 1. bank, making
upwards of 20 in all, including the
remains at Cloghalea and the great
moat in which the fortress of Dro-
gheda now stands (p. 26), and known
in the annals as the mound of the
grave of the wife of Gobhan." — Wilde.
Quitting the high road and turn-
ing to the rt., the tourist arrives at
61 m. the very remarkable tumulus
of Newgrange, which, for the extra-
ordinary size and elaborate orna-
mentation of its interior, is per-
haps unsurpassed in Europe. This
cairn, which is about 70 ft. in
lieight, was surrounded by a circle
of enormous upright stones, 10
being still visible, while it is said
that a large upright stele stood
upon the summit. Like the hill of
Dowth, it is hollow in the interior,
which is formed of large stones, the
peculiarity of them being, that some
are evidently brought from the bed of
the Boyne, while others are basaltic,
and others again must have been
transported from the Moume Moun-
tains. The opening of the passage,
first described by Edward Llwyd,
the Welsh antiquary, in 1699, faces
the 8., and is remarkable for 2
very beautifully-carved stones, the
lower one, below the entrance, being
marked with spirals "like snakes
encircled, but without heads," and
the other, which projects above the
entrance, being of a sort of diagonal
pattern. The passage is 63 ft. long, and
is formed of enormous upright stones,
22 on one side and 21 on the other ;
and having forced himself through
it with some trouble, the visitor
emerges into a lofty dome-roofed
chamber, nearly circular, with 3 re-
cesses leading Out from it. The
basement of this chamber is com-
posed of a circle of 11 upright
stones, above which is the dome,
formed by large stones placed hori-
zontally, the edge of each project-
ing somewhat more than the under
one until the top is reached, and
closed by a single big slab. Re-
specting this form of roofing, ** Po-
cocke has observed a similar structure
in the pyramid of Dushour, called
by the Arab name of Elkebere-el-
Barieh; and all the visitors to the
Cyclopean-walled Mycenae are well
acquainted with the appearance of
the great cavern known by tradi-
tion as the tomb of Agamemnon, and
believed by some antiquaries to have
been the treasury of Athens ; between
which and Newgrange comparisons
have often been made : their resem-
blance, however, consists in the
principle on which the dome is con-
structed."— Wildes Boyne. Perhaps
the most extraordinary features in
this chamber are the carvings on the
stones in every direction, on the
basement, up in the roof, and in
the recesses.* They consist of coils,
spirals, lozenges, and one in par-
ticular in the western recess is orna-
mented with what was apparently
intended for a fern. As in Dowth, the
interior contains stone oval basins.
That the remains of those who were
buried in these gigantic mausoleums,
as well as other valuables deposited
with them, were plundered by the
Danes about a.d. 860, is recorded in
-the • Four Annals,' and it need not
therefore excite any surprise in the
visitor that nothing but the bare
walls remain, though at the excava-
tions cv'ried on at Dowth in 1847
several articles were found, such as
bones, pins, fibulse, and a cinerary urn.
On the opposite side of the river is
Bosnaree, from whence the body of
King Cormac - was vainly endea-
voured to be brought to Brugh-na-
Boinne.
1 m. farther W., and nearer to
•The Celtic tomb of Locmariarker In
Brittany exliibits ornamental carving similar
to Newgrange.
140
Boute 15. — Enfield to Drogheda,
Ireland,
Slane, is the tumuhis of Knowth (the
Cuodhba of the * Four Annals *), an
equally enormous mass, but to which
there is no access as regards the in-
terior.
62 J m. Dowth or Dubhadh is a
conical hill of considerable size, on
the western side of which a passage
had long existed, that might have
been possibly formed by the Danes
when they rifled the tumuli of their
contents. This was further opened
and explored, and led to very gra-
tifying discoveries. The entrance
passage, which is by no means easy
of access, is composed of 11 very
large stones on the 1. and 9 on the
rt., set on end, and slightly inclined
at top. It is 27 ft. long, and leads
into a central chamber similar to
the one at Newgrange. Notice the
singular and beautiM carvings on
the stones, consisting of spirals, con-
centric circles, and wheel crosses,
together with straight lines like
Ogham characters. In the centre of
the chamber is a shallow stone
basin measuring 5 ft. in diameter.
Adjoining the chamber are 3 re-
cesses, between 5 and 6 ft. deep,
the southern one of which leads
into another series of chambers
and passages running southward.
" Following the long southern gallery,
we find its floor formed by a single
stone, 10 ft. 6 in. long; and in the
centre of this flag is a shallow oval
excavation, capable of holding aboui
a gallon, and apparently rubbed
down with some rude tool."
Near the tumulus of Dowth is St.
Bernard's Well and ruined ,ch., the
latter containing a very singular
figure built into its S. wall. There
are also remains of a castle, a large
military rath about 300 yards round,
supposed to be the fort of Dun-na-
Gedh, where Domhnall gave his
celebrated feast ; also a portion of a
stone circle on the edge of a quarry
overhanging the road. Dowth Castle
is the estate of the late Lord Netter-
ville, whose ancestor formed in the
ground c urious ramparts, baths, ponds,
&c.
The valley of the Boyne is here
extremely beautiful ; the banks, which
are in many places steep, are charm-
ingly wooded and ornamented with
fine residences, such as Townley Hall
(B. T. Balfour, Esq.) and Oldbridge
House (H. Ooddington, Esq.).
At 64 m., the point where the
Mattock flows into the Boyne, the
traveller arrives at the battle-field,
where that decisive contest took
place in 1690 which proved so fetal
to the crown of James II. He will
observe that the Boyne here flows E.
and W., and that the area of the
valley is bordered by a steepish hiU,
up which the road to Drogheda is
carried. In the centre of this area is
the obelisk that marks the most
important point in the field.
On looking down the river, notice
2 largish islands — Green and Yel-
low Island— close to the river-side.
Higher up is the obelisk, from which
the road, following the stream, takes
a considerable curve, immediately
under the beautiful woods of Townley
Hall. At this point the Boyne doubles
round upon itself and flows from the
S., receiving the small brook called
the Mattock, that joins it just beyond
Townley Hall. A still smaller tribu-
tary emerges near the obelisk from a
deep wooded ravine known as King
William's Glen; and a 3rd glen is
occupied by a rivulet which flows
into the same side of the Boyne about
1 m. nearer to Drogheda. On the
opposite or 8. side the visitor will
notice Oldbridge (immediately oppo-
site the obelisk), and above it, rising
up in a succession of slopes, the hill
of Donore, the summit of which will
be about 1 m. from the bank of the
river. "To the rt. or E. the hill
fines off towards Drogheda IJ m.
distant. Its western side abuts upon
and is completely protected by the
high precipitous banks of the Boyne,
now cohered by the plantations of
the demesne of Farm. Immediately
Ireland.
Boute 15. — The Boyne,
141
behind it, towards tlie S., the way
lies open to Dublin along the sea-
ward line." — Wilde. Tlie tide comes
tip as far as the weir just above where
the Mattock falls in, and here the
Boyne is fordable with difficulty.
Another and much shallower ford oc-
curs at Yellow Island, passable at low
water for a carriage and horses in
summer time . Oldbridge was a village
at the time of the battle. It is abso-
lutely necessary that the visitor
should make himself thoroughly ac-
quainted with these details before
he can understand the plan of the
battle.- James's army,having marched
through Drogheda, took up a posi-
tion on the northern face of Do-
nore, the king himself passing the
night in the little ch. "The Irish
cannon were planted on 2 elevations
commanding the fords, one a little
to the S. of Oldbridge village, which
was here intersected by narrow
lanes; the other nearly opposite the
Yellow Island." The English army,
which arrived from Ardee on the
30th June, 1690, took up its posi-
tion on the opposite slopes, with its
right descending into tlie hollow of
tlie King's Glen, and the left in
the parallel ravine near Drogheda.
Previous to the engagement an in-
cident took place that gave great
delight to the Irish army, viz. the
wounding (which, however, happened
to be very slight; of William as he
was riding along the bank of the
river reconnoitring. " The place
where this happened was on the side
of a small hillock by the water s
edge, a little below the glen, and
from which the stones have been
taken to build the obelisk erected
just beside it." Although the Irish
army was protected by Drogheda on
its rt., it was not so on the 1., and,
to take advantage of this, William
despatched 10,000 men under the
younger Schomberg to cross the ford
near Slane, which they did before
James could detach any force to
meet them.
The 2nd passage of the river at
Oldbridge was made at 10^ a.m.,
the tide being out, by Schomberg,
who, with the Blue Dutch Guards,
the Enniskilleners, and the French
Huguenots, emerged from the ravine
opposite Grove Island, and dashed
into the water, when the brave old
general met his death in the en-
counter. ** Without defensive armour
he rode through the river and rallied
the refugees, whom the fall of Caille-
mot had dismayed. * Come on,' he
cried to the French, pointing to the
Popish squadrons ; * come on, gentle-
men, there are your persecutors.' As
he spoke a band of Irish horsemen
rushed upon him and encircled him
for a moment. When they retired ho
was on the ground. His friends raised
him; but he was already a corpse.
Almost at the same moment. Walker,
Bishop of Derry, while exhorting the
colonists of Ulster to play the men,
was shot dead." — Macaulay.
" The 3rd passage was effected by
the Danes and Germans at a shallow
between the 2 principal islands, where
the water must have been up to their
armpits ; while the 1. wing, entirely
composed of cavalry, passed or swam
across opposite the eastern valley
which intersects the hill of TuUy-
allen and effected a landing, ap-
parently with little opposition, at a
very deep and dangerous part of the
river, nearly opposite one of tlie
Irish batteries, and where the margin
of the stream is wet and swampy.
Here it was, however, that William
himself, with his arm in a sling from
the effects of his wound, plunged
into the stream with Col. Woolstey,
and passed with great difficulty, for
his horse was bogged on the other
side, and he was forced to alight till
a gentleman helped him to get his
horse out." — Wilde. In this area
26,000 men on the English side w'ere
engaged with 16,000 Irish, in addi-
tion to the 10,000 English who had
crossed at Slane, and were occupied
I with the Irish 1. wing. The result
142
Boute 16. — Drogheda to Cavan.
Ireland.
of the battle is well known : the
Irish army falling back on Donore,
and finally retreating to Duleek,
where they passed the night, while
King James himself fled to Dublin,
which he reached about 10 o'clock
that night.
It IS to be hoped that the bitter
animosities of party spirit which were,
until very lately, so rampant on this
subject, are becoming softened by
time and tlie interchange of greater
good will and forbearance. For more
intimate details of the topography
and incidents of the battle, the
tourist is referred to Sir W. Wilde's
exhaustive memoir on the Boyne, to
wluch, as well as to the learned
author's personal help and leader-
ship, the writer of this notice is very
greatly indebted.
From the battle-field the traveller,
should he not wish to visit Mellifont
now, soon rejoins the great N. road
and arrives at
65 m. Drogheda {Hotel, Imperial),
Bte. 2.
ROUTE 16.
FKOM DROGHEDA TO NAVAN, KELLS,
AND CAVAN, BY RAIL.
The branch rly. to Oldcaetle, 36 m.
in length, runs through as well-
wooded and well-watered a dis-
trict as any in Ireland, and for the
antiquary a district richly stored with
historic remains. It follows the S.
bank of the Boyne, although, until
the traveller arrives at Beauparc, the
high grounds intervene and shut it
out The river is crossed at Navan,
and the valley of the Blackwater
ascended from hence.
4} m. From Duleek Stat, a lane
on rt. leads IJ m. to the small
hamlet and ruined ch. of Donore
(Rte. 15), where James II. passed
the night before his hopes were
finally defeated at the battle of the
Boyne. From Donore the Irish army
" retreated in tolerable order towards
Duleek, towards which place the left
wing, already beaten above Rosnaree,
had retired. Here with the Nanny
water between them both parties
halted for the night, with the excep-
tion of Bang James, who fled to
Dublin, which he reached about 10
o'clock." — Wilde. A ch. was founded
here in the 5th cent., by St. Kieran, a
disciple of St. Patrick, and was called
Duleek or Dam-liag, " because it was
the first that was built with lime
and mortar — and was so called from
leac, a stone." — VaUancey. This ch.
gave place to a priory for canons
regular, founded in 1182 by Hugh De
Lacy, who made it subject to that of
Llanthony in Monmoutnshire, and at
the dissolution its possessions, which
were large, were granted to Sir
Gerald Moore, ancestor of the Dro-
gheda family.
The ruins, of E. Eng. date,
consist of a spacious nave 100 ft.
in length by 20 ft. broad, lighted
at the W. end b^ a 3-light lancet
window, and tenmnated by a rather
massive tow& of 2 stages. Under
the E. window are the armorial
bearings of Sir John Bellew, 1587.
Here is also the tombstone of an
ecclesiastic. Adjoining the village is
the demesne of the now extinct
family of Earl of Thomond, entered
by a castellated gateway that once
led to the abbey. The Nanny, a
small stream, is crossed by an old
bridge, built by William Bathe of
Athcame and Genet his wife in
1587. On the banks of the same
river, 2 J m. W., is the ancient seat of
the de Bathe family,
Athcame Castle (J. Gemon, Esq.),
a large square Elizabethan building,
defended at the angles by quadran-
Ireland.
Boute 16. — Navan,
143
gular towers, the whole of which was
formerly siirrounded by a fosse. 2
m. to the W. of Athcame is Sbiner-
ville, the beautiful seat of Lord Ath-
lumney.
2 J m. rt. is Flatten House (J.
Gradwell, Esq.), built on the site of
a castle of the time of Edward III.,
erected by Sir John D'Arcy (Lord
Justice of Ireland).
Crossing the turnpike-road to Slane,
the rly. arrives at 12 m. Beavparc
Stat., contiguous to Beauparc House,
the seat of G. Lambart, Esq., situated
on an elevation commanding an ex-
quisite prospect. " Beyond the fall
of Stackallan we pass through the
most delicious scenery : on the rt. the
modem mansion of Beauparc peeps
through the never-ending green of
tall pines, sycamores, oaks, and elms.
On the 1. the ivy-mantled walls of
Castle Dexter (Rte. 15) raise them-
selves above the dark plantation,
while the limestone rock, here twisted
into a vaRety of contortions, breaks
through the surface and relieves the
eye, almost satiated with the endless
variety both of colour and foliage."
From Beauparc Stat, the pedestrian
can reach Slane in 3 J m. From-
hence the rly. keeps nearly parallel
with the road and the liver to Navan.
13 m. 1. is Dollardston House, and
15 m. rt. Ardmulchan House (J. R.
Taafe, Esq.), opposite whose residence
are the ruins of Dunmore ch. and
castle, and rt. the tower of Donagh-
more (Rte. 15). Crossing the Boyne,
the tourist arrives at
17 m. Navan {Hotel : Brady* s\ an
ill-built dirty town, with a Pop. of
some 4000, who have by no means
appreciated its picturesque situation
at the junction of the Blackwater with
the Boyne, but " like those of most
Irish towns through which a river
runs, have turned their backs upon
the stream, scarce a glimpse of which
can be obtained from any of its
narrow streets." With the exception
of the parochial and county structures,
fiuch as ch., barracks, infirmary, and
gaol, it has little to interest the
tourist ; though in the 16th cent, it
was sufficiently important to have
attracted a marauding expedition of
the O'Neills and O'Donnells. Its
ancient name was Nuachongbhail,
and it was originally walled.
Many antiquities now in the Irish
Academy were discovered in rly.
cuttings adjacent to the river, besides
a singular subterranean passage on
the W. bank near Athlimmey, di-
viding into 2 branches, which each
ended in a rude circular beehived
chamber. Navan is a good central
position from whence to explore
either section of the Boyne, which by
means of a canal has been rendered
partly navigable. The tourist can
either drive or walk to Beauparc and
Slane, or else descend the river and
canal by boat.
Conveyances. — By rail to Drogheda,
Kells, and Dublin,
Distances. — Slane, 8 m. ; Drogheda,
17 ; Beauparc, 5 ; Bective, 6 ; Trim,
12 ; Athlumney, 1^ ; Donaghmore,
IJ; Kells, 10.
Excursions, —
1. Trim and Bective (Rte. 15).
2. Slane and Newgrange.
3. Kells.
4. Duleek and Drogheda.
The tourist now quits the Boyne
and follows the course of the Black'
water (anc. Abhaim-mor), a river
rising from Lough Ramor in the
S.E. comer of the county of Cavan,
which, after flowing for 20 m. in a
winding lazy stream, joins the Boyne
at Navan, where they are nearly of
the same size. The scenery of its
banks is by no means as fine as that
of the Boyne, but it is equally rich
in early remains.
19J m. close to the line is Lis-
carton Casth, a noble-looking old
fortress (partly inhabited), mainly
consisting of 2 square towers con-
nected together by a central hall,
the whole of which forms a massive
quadrangular building. It was held
in 1633 by Sir William Talbot. Ad-
144
B)ute 16. — Drogheda to Cavan.
Ireland.
joining it is the ch., containing
some exquisite E. and W. windows
(Dec.) with beautiful tracery. ** Upon
the exterior face may be observed
well-carved human heads projecting
from the dripstone." On the oppo-
site bank is Rathaldron (Oapt. Doncdd-
son), another specimen of the old
quadrangular tower, to which a cas-
tellated mansion has been added.
The entrance is through a very fine
avenue of limes. Between this spot
and Navan is the mutilated cross of
Nemnstown, which from the re-
searches by Mr. D. H. Smith appears
to have been erected in memory of a
knight of the Cusack tamily 1588.
On 1. of the line to the S. of
Liscarton is Ardbraccan (Bp. of
Meath).
[21^ m. rt., on the opposite bank
of the river, is the ch. of Do-
fiaghpatrickf occupying the site of
Domnachpadraig, the great ch. of St.
Patrick, celebrated in the Book of
Armagh for being 60 feet long —
" pedibus ejus Ix. pedum." This was
the length prescribed by St. Patrick
for this ch., "which the Prince
Conall, the brother of the monarch
Laoghaire, was to erect for him." —
Petrie. The long even gave up his
house for a site. Near the ch. is a
specimen of the mihtary rath, con-
sisting of a moimd rising out of as
many as 4 successive embankments
or circumvallations. Sir W. Wilde
considers it to be the finest example
of the kind in Ireland ; but it is to
be regretted that planting operations
have to a great extent concealed it,
and that at least one half of the
lines of circumvallation have
been levelled. A little further,
on the same side of the river, we
come to Telton House^ occupying
the gradually sloping bank of a hill
which rises 292 ft. above the sea.
The summit is crowned by a fort.
Hath Dubh, which measures 321
paces in circmnference and has
openings N. and S. This was the
site of the. ancient palace of Tailtean,
one of the 4 celebrated royal resi-
dences of Ireland, and for ages
immemorial the locale of a great fair,
established in the year of the world
3370, in remembrance of Taillte,
" wife of the last king of the Fir-
bolgs." — Annals of the Four Masters.
Up to the time of Roderick O'Connor,
the last king of Ireland, this fiiir was
regularly held, when series of games,
such as boxing, wrestling, chariot-
races, and sham aquatic fights carried
on in artificial lakes, were the order of
the day. In addition to these attrac-
tions, it was the custom of all the
lads and lasses who wished to try
their luck to arrange themselves on
either side of a high wall in which
was a small opening, through which
the female protruded her hand. If
the swain admired it, the parties
were married, an arrangement which,
fortunately for both, only held good
for a year and a day, when each
was free to try their luck again. The
proverb of a " Telton marriage " is
not yet obsolete in Meath. Should
the visitor not succeed in tracing the
outworks of the fort or the site of the
lakes to his satisfaction, he will at all
events be rewarded by the magnifi-
cent view, embracing, W., Kells, the
woods of Headford, and the ranges of
the Oavan mountains in the distance ;
while E. he sees Liscarton, Rath-
aldron, Navan, the hills of Tara and
Skreen, and the wide green plains of
Meath, watered by the Boyne and
Blackwater, together with their tri-
butaries, the Moynalty and Sile.]
24 m. BaUyheg Stat., near which
1. is Allenstown House (W. N. Waller,
Esq.).
27 m. Kdls {Inn, Hannon's), a
rather pleasant little town, confin-
ing much that is interesting in the
highest degree to the antiquary.
Kells (anciently Ceanannus) was
celebrated in early Christian ages as
being the residence of St. Columb,
to whom a grant was made by Dermot,
the son of Fergus Kervaill, and who
founded a monastery here in 550.
Ireland.
Bout3 IQ.-^Kelh.
145
Although no traces of this at present
exist, the visitor will find 3 remark-
able remains : 1, The house of St.
Columb ; 2, The round tower ; and
3. The crosses.
The saint's house is of the same
claas of high-roofed buildings as St.
Kevin's Kitchen at Glendalough,
and offers a remarkable example of
the earliest cylindrical vaulting (Kte.
24). " It is of a simple oblong form,
roofed with stone, and measures in
height, from its base to the vertex of
the gable, 38 ft. ; and as the height
of the roof and width of the side
walls are nearly equal, the gables
form very nearly equilateral triangles.
The lower part of the building is
arched semieircularly with stone, and
has at the E. end, a small semicir-
cular-headed window, about 15 ft.
from the ground ; and at the S. side
there is a 2nd window, with a trian-
gular or straight-lined head, measur-
ing 1 ft. 9 in. in height. These
windows splay considerably on the
inside. The present doorway in the
S. wall is not original or ancient;
and the original doorway, which is
now built up, was placed in the W.
end, and at a height of 8 ft. from the
ground. The apartment placed be-
tween the arched floor and the slant-
ing roof is 6 ft. high, and appears to
liave been originally divided into 3
compartments of unequal size. In
the largest, which is at the E. end, is
a flat stone, 6 ft. long and 1 ft. thick,
now called S. Colimib's penitential
bed." — Fetrie, These buildings no
doubt served the double purpose of
habitation, together with rude ar-
rangements for religious duties.
The Bound Tower, frequently
referred to in the Annals of Tiger-
nach as the steeple or cloictheach
of Kells, is a remarkably perfect
rimen. It is 100 ft high, has a
' 10 ft. from the ground, and is
lighted by 4 windows, which present
all the varieties of form commonly
found in Irish round towers, viz.
roimd, square, and triangular-headed.
[Ireland,']
Of the Crosses, one, a little
more than 11 ft. high, is close
to the town ; three are in the
ch.-}'ard ; while the Cross of Kells,
par excellence, is in the market-
place. The visitor to Monaster-
boice, near Drogheda, will at
once recognise its similarity to the
crosses there. The shaft, which is
broken off at the top, is 8 ft. 9
in. high ; the arms are 5 ft. 4 in.
in width, and are connected by
a wheel, perfect save a small por-
tion where the top of the shaft
should be. The cross is mounted
on a broad base, having on its side
a good sculpture of mounted .horse-
men in procession ; also a " remark-
able group of 5 fighting figures,
2 armed with speara and holdmg
shields of a peculiar lunette shape."
The shaft is divided into 4 compart-
ments, representing military and
ecclesiastical subjects, while a full-
length figure occupies the centre of
the arms. As an instance of the
respect paid to these exquisite memo-
rials, it may be mentioned that as
lately as 1798 this cross formed part
of the gallows of Kells. The ch. is
modem, but the bell-tower, like the
one at Athlone, stands apart. It con-
sists of 3 stages, and contains some
tablets built into the walls, and a
black-letter inscription recording its
rebuilding in 1578.
Only a small portion of a tower
belonging to the walls remains,
although it is known that Kells was
strongly fortified and possessed a
castle built by Walter de Lacy. The
Annals of the Four Masters and those
of Tigemach record many incidents
in the history of Kells, in which the
town and churches sustained grievous
losses and damage at the handa^of
the native Irish, Norwegian hordee^
and Danish robbers. It was de-
vastated by fire, the sword, and
rtilence many times; though tiie
greatest catastrophes were the
destruction of the aobey in 1108 by
Sitrio and his Danes, and the subse-
146
Boute 16. — Drogheda to Cavan,
luELAXD.
quent burning of the to'wn by Ed-
ward Bruce in 1315.
Kells was celebrated, not only for
its ecclesiastical greatness and sanc-
tity, but also for its advancement in
literature, evidenced by the produc-
tion of the illuminated Book of Kells,
now in the Museum of the Koyal Irish
Academy, which, like its contem-
porary the Book of Ballymote, gives
great insight int6 the national pe-
culiarities of that period, and is a
marvellous example of elaborate
ornamentation. A fine view is ob-
tained fix)m the Hill of Lloyd, which
is crowned with a column 100 ft.
high, erected by 1st Earl of Bective.
About 6 m. W. of Kells are the
moat and dun of Dimor, the former
with a very large central mound and
an outwork, like that at Newry.
The dun is more ordinary, but there
is a chain of 7 or 8 others on the
green hills in the neighbourhood.
About 3 m. to the W. is Lough
Crew, the seat of J. L. Napier, Esq.
Kells is surrounded by many
pleasant residences. The principal
are Headfort, the seat of the Earl of
Bective, adjoining the town, the
woods and groves of which skirt and
indeed occupy islands in the middle
of the Blackwater ; Oakley Park
TG. Bomford, Esq.), Williamstown
CW. S. Gamett, Esq.), Bloomesbury
(R. Bamewall, Esq.), the Arch-
aeaconry (Archd. Stopford).
Conveyances, — By rail to Drogheda
and Dublin ; rly. to Oldcastle ; car
to Baillieborough ; car to Bally-
jamesduff ; car to Clonmellon.
Distances. — ^Navan, IQ m. ; Telton,
5 ; Baillieborough, 14 ; Oldcastle, 14 ;
Ballyjamesduff, 17 ; Virginia, 11 ;
Athboy, 8}; Kingscourt, 14^ ; Trim,
16.
(An excursion may be made to
Tnm, through Athboy, passing 1^
m. rt. Cannonstown (W. Sadlier, Esq .),
and 5J m. rt. Johnsbrook (J. Tandy,
Esq.), and Drewstown.
7 J m. on 1. The ruined eh. or
abbey of Bathmore contains a por-
tion of a sepulchral cross and a
monument erected to a member of
the Plunket family 1531.
8J m. Athboy (anc. Ath-brudhe-
Tlachtga), "the Yellow Ford," an
inconsiderable little town, situ-
ated on the Athboy stream, which
falls into the Boyne. There is a
veiy htmdsome R. C. chapel here,
with a steeple 90 ft. high. To the
E. of the town rises the hill of Ward,
390 ft., celebrated like Tailtean for
being the site of the palace of
Tlachtga, and the locale of a great
fair, " when the fire of Tlachtga
was ordained to be kindled on the
31st October, to summon the priests
and augurs to consume the sacrifices
offered to their gods." — Craioford.
Hi m. rt. is CUfton Lodge, the
residence of the Earl of Damley, who
obtains the title of Athboy from this
town. From hence the road ap-
proaches the valley of the Boyne to
16 m. Trim (Rte. 15).]
From Kells the rly. extends a
few miles further to Oldcastle ; but
the tourist should take the road to
Virginia, which crosses the Black-
water at Clavens Bridge 29 m., and
thence keeps the 1. bank.
30J m. on the side of the river
are the chapel and well of St. Kieran,
with the " remains of 5 termon crosses
in its vicinity, 4 of which are placed
N., S., E., and W. of the river. The
northern one was erected in a ford
in the river, a very remarkable situa-
tion for one of these early Christian
structures." — Wilde. This is ac-
coimted for by the story that Si Kieran
erected these crosses with a great deal
of trouble, and that St. Columb, who
was Ihen building at Kells, envied
them so greatly that he determined
to abstract one. The saint had got
halfway across the river with flie
stone on his back when St. Kieran
awoke and caught him. A struggle
took place, in which St. Columb
threw the base of the cross down in
the bed of the river, where it has
ever smce remained. The eh. is a
Ireland. Bc^ute 17. — Mudlingar to Portadoion.
147
plain singular building of the 14th
cent, or thereabouts, built on arches,
so as to form a sort of crypt.
35 J m. the traveller arrives at the
foot of Lough Ramor, from whence
the Blackwater emerges, and fol-
lows the N. shore of tlie lough and
under the slopes of BaDybrush
(1631 ft.) to
38^ Virginia, a neat pretty town,
originally founded ** in pursuance of
the plan for colonizing Ulster in the
reign of James I., when 250 acres were
allotted for the site of a town, called
Virginia, which was to have been
niade a borough, but was never in-
corporated."— Lewis. There is a
modem Gothic ch., which replaced
one partly blown down and partly
burnt in 1832.
At Kilualeck, a little to the K. of
Mt. Nugent, a seam of anthracitic coal
in the Ijower Silurian beds was dis-
•covered by Mr. J. Kelly.
Lough Mamor, about 5 m. in length,
as prettily wooded and varied with
islands, planted by the Marquess of
Headfort, who has an estate close
to Virginia. The lake is said in the
Annals of the Four Masters to have
burst from a neighbouring height,
called SUabh Guaire, and it receives
at Virginia the river Sele, which is
to all intents and purposes identical
with the Blackwater, although the
latter only takes its name from the
jperiod of its rising from the lake.
The original name of the river was
Abhainn Sele, till gt. Patrick cursed
it and caused the water to become
black, whence it took the 'name of
Abhainn Ddhu or Blackwater.
Conveyances, — Car to Oavan ; also
toDrogheda and Virginia Boad Stat
Distances. — Cavan, 19 m. ; Kells,
1 1 ; Ballyjamesduff, 6 ; Oldcastle, 7i ;
Mount Nugent, 11; Baillieborough,?!.
The scenery has very much
changed smce the traveller left the
flat pasture-lands of Meath, and he
now finds himself graduJedly ap-
proaching high ground, although
not exceeding 1000 ft.
45 m. New Inn [from whence a
road on 1. branches off to 3 m. a
small town of the eui)honious name
of Ballyjamesduff, passing on the way
a serpentine sheet of water called
Lough Nadrageel.3 The way lies
over a dreary coimtry, having on 1*
the conspicuous Cavan mountains
Ardkilmore 767, and Slieve Glah
1057 ft.
At 51|^ m. on rt. is the village of
Stradone, with, adjoining it, Stradone
House, the residence of R. Burrowes,
Esq., from whence an uninteresting
drive of 6 m. brings the tourist to
57 J m. the dirty little coimty town
of Cavan {Hotel: Globe). Rte. 17.
ROUTE 17.
FROM MULLINGAR TO PORTADOWN
THBOUGU CAVAN AND ARMAGH.
A branch of the Midland Great
Western Rly.» which for some dis-
tance is also common to Ihe Long-
ford line (Rte. 18), conveys tiio
traveller to Cavan, where a connec-
tion has lately been established wiUi
the North by means of the Clones
branch of the Iridi North-Westem
Company.
14 m. From Float Stat, it is 6 J m. rt.
to Castle-Pollard (Rte. 18), through
the village of Coole and the de-
mesne of Turbotstown (J.^. Dease,
Esq.). From hence the rly. pursues
a northerly course through a very
umnviting and dreary country, pass-
ing 18 m. 1. Femsborough and the
rumed ch. of Abbeylara, in the tower
of which is a grotesquely sculptured
female figure.
20 m. BaUimiUan Stat^ dose to
s2
148
Boute 17. — Mullingar to Portadovm.
Irelaxd.
a siiiall sheet of water on rt called
Lough Kinile, which is connected
by a short stream with Lough Shee-
tin. This is one of the largest lakes
in the county of Oavan, 4J m. in
length, and covering an area of 8000
Iriah acres. On the E. shore is the
small village of Mount Nugent, and on
the 8. of the lake is the ruined castle
of Ross, beyond which the hills of
KnocMaid form a very pleasing
landscape.
[3J m. 1. of the stat. is the little
town of Granard {Inn: Granard).
It was burned by Bruce in 1315,
but afterwards rose to importance in
the reign of James I. Hard by
is the Moat of Granard, a consider-
able artificial mound, believed to
have been built by the Danes aa a
defensive post. <md worth ascending
for the sake of the view.
Some 3 or 4 m. to the N.W. is
Lough Ooumtty an irregularly-shaped
lake, the shores of which in some
places are steep and well wooded.
On the island oi Inchmore, at the S.
end, is a ruined ch. The banks
are adorned by pleasant residences —
Derrycassan (Oapt. Dopping-Hepen-
stal). Erne Head (H. Dopping, Esq.),
"Woodville (O. Lambert, Esq.), and
Frankford. The river Erne issues
from its N. endj.
From this point the country be-
comes still more boggy and dreary,
though the monotony on the rt. is re-
lieved by the picturesque elevations of
the Cavan Hills, which rise conspicu-
ously to the height of 760 ft., in-
creasing at Slieve Glagh to 1050 ft.
On the 1. the line runs parallel with,
though not very near to, the river
Erne.
In the neighbourhood of 31 m.
Crossdoney Ste.t. are Ldsmore and
Bmgfield (J. Storey, Esq.).
36 m. Cavan {Innj Globe). This
dirty little town fPop. 3209) wiU
not induce the visitor to make a
long stay, although it is situated
in a very pleasing country, diversi-
fied by plenty of wood and water.
It contains the usual county struc-
tures, such as gaol, infirmary, bar-
racks, &c, and a pretty spired
ch., which, though m the town,
belongs to the parish of Umey. Xt
once contained the castle of the
O'Reilleys, and a monastery for "the
Dominican order, but they have
long since disappeared. A sharp
contest took place at Cavan in 1690
between a body of James IL's troops
and the redoubtable Enniskilleners
under their gallant leader "Wolseley ;
when the latter, who only numbered
1000, attacked the Duke of Ber-
wick's reinforcements and utterly
routed them. In the neighbourhood
of Cavan is Famham Castle, the
beautiful residence of Lord Fam-
ham.
[3 m. distant, on the road to
Crossdoney, is the seat of the an-
cient bishopric of Kilmore (anc.
Cill-mhor-na-mBreathnach), the first
dignitary being one Andrew Mac-
brady, in 1454, although previous to
that time prelates had been appointed
who were styled Bishops of Breflfhi.
In 1585 the see became Protestant,
and was united in 1752 to Tuam, but,
under the Church Temporalities Act,
is now associated with Elphin and
Ardagh. The cathedral, which
has been restored, possesses no
particular feature of interest, save
a richly-sculptured Norm, doorway
that was removed ' from the abbey
of Trinity Island in Lough Ough-
ter. Near the ch. is the Episcopal
Palace. " The country immediately
connected with Eilmore and Fam-
ham exhibits a well-cultivated, and,
at the same time, a pleasing rural
character. The small lakes, which
are thickly scattered over a surface
of 76 square miles, by their laby-
rinthine windings give to that space
the appearance of lake and island in
alternate series. They are the prin-
cipal feeders of the Erne, and are
connected with each other by small
rivers." — Fraeer.J
Distances, — ^Eells, 31 m. ; Yirginiik,
Ireland. Boute 17. — Bdturhet — Monaghan.
149
20 ; Clones, 17 ; Newton Butler, 14 ;
Eilmore, 3 ; Mullingar, 36; Beltur-
bet,ll.
Conveyances, — Rail to Mullingar
and Clones. Cars daily to Kells and
Monaghan.
A rly. has been opened to Qones,
where it joins the Dundalk and En-
nisMllen line. The high road passes
through a pretty English country,
well planted and well wooded.
pit. a road goes off to Bally-
hatee 4 m., a small town, with a
market place built on arches. Close
to the town is Ballyhaise House (W.
Humphreys, Esq,), the front of which
is also curiously ornamented with
arches.
40 m. at Butler's Bridge, the river
Ballyhaise is crossed, near its junc-
tion with the Erne.
43 m. 1. Clover Hill (Miss Saun-
derson), soon after which a road
on 1. turns off to 3 m. Belturhet, a
neat town on the Erne (crossed
by a bridge of 3 arches), a little
distance from the expansion of
that river into the Upper Lough
Erne. By means of tiie waters of
the lake, the inhabitants have com-
munication as far as Belleek, 3 m.
from Ballyshannon, in addition to the
Ulster Canal that joins the Erne a few
miles above the town. A good deal
of business is carried on in com
and distilling. There are in "the
ch-yard the remains of a fortifica-
tion enclosing an extensive area."
Also a portion of a round tower,
built of lunestone and red grit.
Beltiurbet was, like most of the
towns in this neighbourhood, the
scene of some sharp fighting in
1690, when the EnnisMlleners, prior
to the battle of Newton Butler,
seized upon the town, which had
been taken by the enemy, and, after
dislodging them, fortified it for them-
selves.
Distances. — Enniskillen,21 m.; Ca-
van, 10.
Conveyance. — Bail to Cavan.]
A little beyond Castle Saunder-
son, 46J m. 1. (E. J. Saunder-
son, Esq.), the road crosses the
Ulster Canal, that connects Lough
Erne with Lough Neagh, and runs
parallel with it to 51 m. the pic-
turesque town of Clones, described in
Ete. 6, from whence the traveller
can proceed by rail to Enniskillen
or Dundalk.
57 m. Smithhoroughf an uninterest-
ing little place, founded, as its name
implies, by a Mr. Smith.
63 m. Monaghan {Hotel : Westenra
Arms)! 0. neat and thriving county
town, but not offering sufficient in-
terest to induce a prolonged visit
(Pop. 3910). Of so modem a data
is it, that on the settlement of Ulster,
at the beginning of the 17th cent.,
when the Lord Deputy came hither
to make arrangements respecting the
forfeited lands, there was scarcely a
house in which he and his train could
be accommodated, and they were
consequently obUged to pitch tents.
The chief owner of the district is
Lord Bossmore, whose beautiful seat
of Bossmore is a little to the S. on
the road to Newbliss. The principal
square in the town is called the Dia-
mond, and contains a linen-hall.
Conveyances. — Daily to Cootehill,
to Enniakillen, to Omagh. By rail to
Armagh, Portadown, and Clones. •
Distances. — ^Armagh, 16 m. ; Porta-
down, 26 ; Clones, 12 ; Cavan, 27 ;
Newbliss, 10; Cootehill, 15; Emy-
vale, 7.
In the neighbourhood of Mona-
ghan are Bossmore (Lord Bossmore),
BaUybeck (J. Brownlow, Esq.), Bran-
drum (Major Coote), Mount Louise
(B. Evatt, Esq.), Castle Shane (Hon.
E. Lucas), Beechhill (W. Murray.
Esq.).
From hence the rly. passes through
an uninteresting hilly country to
68 m. Glasslmgh, a small town, the
parish ch. of which has a tower
130 ft. high, aose to it is the fine
estate of Castle Leslie (belonging
150
Boute 17. — MulUngar to Pojiadown, Irela:nd»
to the Leslie femfly), on tiie Ixinks
of a small lake.
Conveyances, — Car to Clogher,
Aughnadoy, and Fivemile Town.
72 m. rt Tynan, A portion of a
stone CI0S8, with bosses and line
pattern, de&ced by Cromwell, stands
by the roadside near the ch.-yard.
There is a smaller one over a well in
the grounds of Tynan Abbey, the
seat of Sir J. M. S^nge, Bart.
About 1 m. Lis Caledim, a thriving
little market town, that has prospered
imder the auspices of the family of
the Earl of Caledon, whose extensive
rk adjoins. It was formerly known
, the name of Kenoard, and Tf as the
head-quarters of Sir Phelim O'Neil,
who in the 17th cent, successfully
held the counter of Tyrone for
several years against the English.
79m. Armagh {Hotels: Beresford
Arms ; Royal), a finely situated cathe-
dral town, and the see of the Primate
ofall Ireland (Pop. 8969). "No city is
80 rich in historical associations, and
yet has so little to show and so little
to tell in the present day, as Armagli.
St. Patrick's first ch. is now re-
presented by the Bank of Ireland;
the Provincial Bank comes close on
St. Columb's; St. Bride's shares its
honours with a paddock; ;St. Peter
and St. Paul afford stabling and
garden-produce to a modem rus
in urhe; and St. Mary's is lost in
a dwelling-house." — Beeves, There
seems to be little doubt but that
St. Patrick founded the early ch.
in the 5th cent, on groinid known as
Druim sailech, "the Ridge of Sal-
low," given to the saint by Daire,
the chieftain of the district. The hill
waa called Rathdaire, and subse-
quently Ard-macha, after an Iridi
heroine of doubtful identity. Here,
shortly after the foundation of the
ch., was buried Lupita, the sister of
St. Patrick.
The early history of the ch. embraces
a long hst of mishaps, long even for
Irish religious establisliments, which
were particularly liable to misfortune.
For 5 cents, or more it had to bear
the repeated attacks of the Danes and
other marauders, who, not content
with plundering, burnt the <aty to
the ground as often as it was rebuilt.
The most complete ruin, however, was.
sustained at the hands of a native
chieftain, O'Neil, in 1566, who re-
duced the cathedral to ashes. " Pri-
mate Loftus assailed the destroyer
with the spiritual weapon of excom-
munication, and rejected his pretext^
which \^as that he burned the ca-
thedral to prevent the English troops-
from polluting its sanctuary by lodging
within its walls. O'Neil was shortly
after most inhumanly butchered in
the Scottish camp, and his body
thrown into a pit, where it lay
inhumed for several days, until one
William Piers disinterred it, and„
severing the head, sent it * pickled in
a pipkin' to the Lord Deputy at
Drogheda."— Wright,
Previous to the destruction by the
Danes, Armagh was famous for its-
school of learning, the Alma Mater of
many of the early scholars, viz. Aigil-
bert. Bishop of the Western Saxons,.
Gildas Albanus, and others. There
is still a royal school here founded
by Charles I.
Since the Reformation Armagh
has been fortunate in its archbishops,
the bulk of whom exercised their
influence to benefit the metropoli-
tan see. Of these the principal
were Primates XTssher, Hoadley, and
Robinson, who, after his translation
from the bishopric of Kildare, was
created Baron Kokeby. To the late
piimate Armagh owes the restorations
of the cathedral, at a cost of 30,000Z.,.
from his own private wealth ; also the
erection of the episcopal residence,
the town hbrary, and the observatory,
which has contributed very largely
to the annals of astronomical science.
The city is very finely situated
on the slopes of a steep hill, the
summit crowned by the venerable
cathedral, wliile separated by valleys
arise other liills, one of which is.
Ireland.
BoiUe 17. — Armagh — Cathedral,
151
likewise adorned by the new R. C.
cathedral. The visitor will mark
with pleasure the substantial and
orderly streets, the clean trottoir, the
prettily wooded mall, and the gene-
ral appearance of prosperity and good
government. The geologist may dis-
cern many limestone £u^ells in the
flags.
The cathedral, which is in the
centre of a close at the top of the
hiD, is a cruciform ch., consisting
of nave with aisles, choir, and tran-
septs, with a massive and rather low
tower rising from the intersection.
It had, previous to the recent altera-
tions, a spire surmounting the tower,
but this has been removed, and with the
best eftect. The tower, which is lighted
with 2 windows on each side, should
be ascended by the tourist for the sake
of the extensive and beautiful view.
The nave is separated from each aisle
by 4 pointed arches with roimded
and deeply moulded piUars, and is
lighted by 5 Perp. windows, with 4
clerestory windows above. At the
W. end is a lancet-headed 3-light,
of good stained glass, there being
also a Perp. stained window at the
W. of each aisle. The roof is of
timber, well carved, and ornamented
with gilt bosses. The nave contains
monuments to Dr. Sir T. Molyneux,
by Eoubilliac; to Dr. Stuart, late
Primate, by Chantrey ; an elaborate
menwrial to the 3 brothers Kelly;
to Archdeacon Robinson ; in the N.
aisle to Dean Drelincourt, 1644, by
Rysbraeck. Notice also good moulding
on the W. door, and an octagonal
sculptured font; and a most beau-
tiful monmnent has lately been
put up to the late Primate, Lord
J. Beresford. The N. transept is
used as a robing-room, and contains
a monument resplendent in colours
to Lord Charlemont. The choir is
separated by a sculptured and stone-
panelled screen, is lighted by beau-
tiful stained glass at the sides and E.
end, and has a groined roof. The
beUs are remarkably sweet, and are
enabled to be rung by one person.
The whole cathedral is pleasing and
grateful to the English eye, for every
portion of it denotes a careful and
zealous watch over it. The organ
is good, and the choral service very
well performed. The tourist should
visit Primate Robinson's library, over
the door of which is inscribed to
THIS ^vxvs larrptiov, and also the
observatory, which, with the astrono-
mer's residence, is situated a short
distance out of the town in prettily
planted gardens. The scientific vi-
sitor win receive every attention either
from the principal. Dr. T. Romney
Robinson or the sub-astronomer, Mr.
Rambaut. About 1^ m. from the town
is the Palace (Right Rev. the Arch-
bishop), a fine block of building
erected by Primate Robinson, together
with a private chapel, and an obe-
lisk commanding views over beau-
tiful grounds. A very conspicuous
feature in Armagh is the R. C cathe-
dral, not yet finished, but which pro-
mises to be a magnificent buildmg
in Dec. style. .
Of all the chs. and religious
establishments that Armagh ever
boasted, nothing remains, though the
archsBological visitor may visit the
site of Emania, known as the Navan
Fort, which occupies an area of 12
acres, a httle distance from the city.
It is said *to have been the seat of
the Ulster sovereignty for 600 years,
during which period a series of kings
reigned here prior to the year 332 !
In shape it is elliptical, embracing
about 12 acres. "In the townland
of Tray there is a mound to which
tmdition assigns the name of the
King's Stables, and immediately ad-
jacent was the palace of the Knights
or Champions of the Curaidhe na
Craubh Ruadh, or the Knights of
the Red Branch." — Doyle, An in-
teresting pamphlet has been written
by the Rev. Dr. Reeves on the
* Ancient Churches of Armagh,'
which the antiquary should consult.
Another early monument exists
152
Boute 18. — MulUngar to Sligo,
Ireland.
on the banks of the Cullan "Water
on the road to Keady, in a mound
that marks the tomb of Kial GaiUe,
who, when his army was drawn up
in battle array against the Danes,
perished in an attempt to save one
of his men who had Mien into the
nver.*
A little to the S. is Market Hill,
with the Vicars Cairn 840 ft. high.
Adjoining the town is Gosford Castle,
the seat of the Earl of Gosford.
The neighboiu-hoods of Armagh
and Keady are celebrated for me
production of brown and coloured
linens, such as blousee, and hoUands
for window bUnds, the tint of which
is obtained by soaking the goods in
solution of muriate of tin and cate-
chu. After this operation they are
glazed and finished by means of a
" beetling " machine. This operation
can be seen at Messrs. Kirk's factory
in Keady, where 200 beetling ma-
chines are employed.
Conveyances. — By rail to Clones,
Monaghan, Portadown, and Newry.
Car to Keady and Castle Blayney.
Distances. — Monaghan, 16 m. ;
Portadown, 10 ; Richhill, 4 ; Keady,
7J ; Moy, 7^ ; Blackwatertown, 5.
83 m. Richhill, another small town
on rt. occupying high ground. In
the demesne of Castle Dillon (Sir T.
Molyneux, Bart.) adjoining is an obe-
lisk erected by Sir Capel Molyneux to
commemorate the Irish volunteers,
1782. From hence the line runs
through an agricultural district to
89 m. Portadown (Rte. 3), where a
junction is effected with the Ulster
and the Dundalk rlys.
• The same legend, however, is current on
the banks of the Nore, near Thomastown.
ROUTE 18.
FROM MULUNGAR TO SLIGO, THROUGU
LONGFORD, CARRICKONSHANNON,
AND BOYLE.
A rly. extends from Mullingar to
Longford, Carrick, Boyle, and Sligo,
branching from the Midland Great
Western at Mullingar (Rte. 14), and
passing on 1. the barracks and imion-
house.
2 m. 1. is Levington Park (R. H.
Levinge, Esq.), immediately after
which tiie broad waters of Lough
Owd (anc. Lough Uair) open out,
the rly. running close alongside
of it for the whole distance, 5
m. in length. The area of this
lake occupies 2295 acres; and eJ-
though the scenery around it is by
no means striking, the wooded hills
and numerous fine seats on its banks
give it a pleasant and sheltered
aspect. On the opposite side is
Portloman, the residence of J. De
Blaquiere, Esq., in whose grounds
are slight remains of an abbey ch.
3J m. rt. are Ballynagall fT. J.
Smyth, Esq.), and Knockdrin Castle,
the seat or Sir Richard Levinge,
Bart., M.P. for county Westmeath.
At the upper end of the lake, on
the W. side, is Mountmurray (H.
Murray, Esq.), and close to the rly.
1., Woodlands (E. Maxton, Esq.), and
Clonhugh, a seat belonging to the
Earl of Granard.
The angler can get good sport in
Lough Owel, the trout running from
1 to 10 lb. The best season is about
the time of the May-fly.
6^ m. Clonhugh Stat. 7| m. close
to MuUifarriham Stat., amidst the
trees on the 1., is Wilson's Hospital,
an estabKshment founded by the
late Mr. Andrew Wilson, who be-
queathed 4000Z. a year for the edu-
cation of Protestant orphans, and
Ireland.
Boute 18. — Lough Derevaragh.
153
also for the maintenance of a certain
number of old men. In the village
are the partial ruins of Multifamliam,
Abbey, remarkable chiefly for its
slender square steeple, 90 ft. in
height This house was founded for
Conventual Franciscans in 1236 by
"William Delamere, and was noto-
rious for having maintained its early
splendour later than any other esta-
blishment; for "although formally
dissolved by Henry Vlfl., those to
whom it was granted did not dis-
possess the monks, who in 1622, even
attempted the formation of a branch of
their society at MuUingar." — Lewis.
Many of the plans of the Civil War
of 1641 were concocted here, for
which the monks were driven away.
They, however, returned again in
1823, and some Franciscans still
dwell in the precincts of the eh.
[About 2 m. to the E. of Multi-
famham is Lough Derevardgh, an
irregularly-shaped lake about 6 m.
in length. Its broadest expanse is in
its northern portion, where it receives
a considerable stream known as the
Inny. Its banks are boggy and
tame, but at the southern end the
scenery improves wonderfully, be-
coming almost fine. The lake here
is narrow, and is bounded on each
side by steep hills— on thd W. by
Knockioss (565 ft.), and on the E.
by Knockion (707), which rises
snarply from the water. On the
side of the latter hill is an old
chapel and spring dedicated to St.
Eyen, and an object of devout atten-
tion to the peasantry. The summit
offers an extensive view from the
comparatively flat nature of the
country for many miles around. In-
deed, it is asserted in Lewis's * Top.
Diet.' that the Atlantic and Irish
Channel are both visible from it. A
little to the N. of BLnockion is
Faughalstown or Fahalty, where are
the remains of a castle, the retreat
of Mortimer Earl of March in the
jeign of Henry FV. The borders of
the lake are studded with seats : on
the W. Monintown, and Donore,
the residence of Sir Percy Nugent,
Bart. ; and on the N. bank Coolure
(Eight Hon. Sir K. Pakenham).
2 m. to E. of the lake is CasUe
Pollard {Inn: Keilly's) a pleasant
little agricultural town, in the imme-
diate neighbourhood of the finely-
wooded estates of Pakenham Hall
(the Earl of Longford), and Kinturk
(Major Urquhart, M.P.). [The anti-
quary will find at the village of Fore
(anc. Fobhar -fechin), 2^ m. on the road
to Kells, the remains of an abbey
founded by St. Fechin in 630, and
rebuilt by De Lacy in the 13th cent.
It was an important establishment,
containing 3000 monks, and Imown
locally as Ballylichen, "the Town
of Books." The remains are, how-
ever, much more of a military
than ecclesiastical character, and
stand on a rock in the middle of a
morass.
The village also contains portions
of the ancient walls, a square tower
used as a burial place of the Del-
vin family, and a defieiced stone cross.
The ch. of St. Fechin (who died of a
great plague in 664) is remarkable for
its doorway. "It is perfectly Cy-
clopean in character, constructed al-
together of 6 stones, including iiie
lintel. It has a plain architrave over
it, which, however, is not continued
along its sides, and above this there
is a projecting tablet, in the centre
of which is sculptured a plain cross
within a circle."— Pc<r/e.]
From Castle Pollard the tourist
who is on his way to Cavan may
rejoin the rly. at Float Stat. (Rte. 17).
Castle Pollard is a good rendezvous
for the angler, who will find plenty
of large-sized trout in Lough Dereva-
ragh.]
11 m., after crossing a lazy stream
that connects the last-named lough
with Lough Iron, the line reaches
Cavan Junction (Rte. 17).
13 m. the rly. enters the county
H 3
154
Boute 18. — Mullingar to Sligo.
Ireland.
of Longford ; 1. 1 m. the village of
Rathowen, near the small lake of
Olen Lough. In the neighbourhood
are Newpark (J. Auchmuty, Esq.),
and Bockfleld (M. Crawford, Esq.).
17 m. EdgeivorUistovm, though in
itself only a neat, plain village, has
acquired an interest that will never
fade away on account of the social
benefits that have accrued, not only
to Ireland, but to the world at large,
from the Edgeworth &mily. It
has been established here ever
since the year 1583, the first of the
&mily who came to Ireland having
been made Bishop of Down and
Connor. Each generation of the
Edgeworths was remarkable for their
endeavours to improve the social con-
dition of those around them, and
none were more conspicuous in their
efforter than the late Mr. Bichard
Edgeworth, who lived at the com-
mencement of the present century,
and was &r ahead of his age in
scientific knowledge and practice,
as well as in his views on Irish
education and questions of political
economy. The charming novels of
Miss Edgeworth, his daughter, have
been read by all the world, and
need no more than a passing allu«
sion. Apart from these associations,
Edgeworthstown House is a plain,
comfortable mansion, with no par-
ticular architectural beauties about
it.. The ch. should be visited on
account of its steeple, an ingenious
contrivance of the late Mr. Edge-
worth. It waa formed of iron, covered
with slates, and was cleverly hoisted
into its position by means of wind-
lasses—
"The chimney widened and grew higher,
Became a steeple with a spire."
In the neighbourhood of Edge-
worthstown are Colamber ( — Black-
all, Esq.), Whitehill House (H.
Wilson Slator, Esq.), and Lissard
(J. L. 0'Ferrall,Esq.). At Firmount,
Which is a portion of this proper fry^.
resided the Abb6 Edgeworth, who
attended Louis XVI. to the scaffold
as his confessor.
Distances. — Longford, 8^ m. ; Gra-
nard, 13 ; Ardagh, 5.
22 m., on 1. about 3 m. is Ardagh
Hill (650 ft.), from the summit of
which there is a very fine view.
25 J m. Lonqford {Hotel: Long-
ford), a tolerably flourishing inland
little town, and the most import-
ant that the traveller will meet with
in this route. It is the terminus
of the Boyal Canal, which is here
supplied by the Camlin river. Being
a corporate and county town, it con-
tains the usual municipal buildings
— such as gaol, court-house, bar-
racks, and the like — ^together with a
goodly number of stores and ap-
pliances for trade, which has been
much encouraged by the Longford
family. There are no remains of its
castle or abbey, both of which were
at one time important, a very large
Dominican house, subsequently de-
stroyed by fire, having been founded
here in 1400 by O'Ferrol, Prince of
Annaly. This family was all im-
portant here till the middle of the
17th cent., when the castle was
taken,, and all the garrison put to
the sword. The tourist should visit
the R. C cathedral, which has a very
lofty tower, and occupied 20 years
in building.
Conveyances. — Car to Athlone
daily, through Ballymahon; rail to
Sligo and MulJingar.
Distances^ — Edgeworthstown, SJ
m.; Lanesborough, 10; Carrick-on-
Shannon, 22 ; Newtown Forbes, 3 ;
Drumod, 11 ; Strokestown, 14 ; Ath-
lone, 27 ; MuUingar, 25i ; DubUn,.
76.
The country,, wliicli hitherto has.
been little but a succession of bog,,
begins to improve soon after leaving
Longford, and at 30 m. the ^^llago
of Newtown ForheSy on 1. of rly., is
wooded and pretty. Extending to
the banks of the Shannon, which the
tourist now reaches, is Castle Forbes,^
Ireland.
Boute 18. — Castle Forbes — Carrich,
155
a beautiful seat of the Earl of
Granard, Lord Lieutenant of the
county Leitrim, to whose ancestor,
Sir Arthur Forbes, the estate was
granted by James I. In 1641 the
house sustained a severe siege at the
hands of the insurgents, in which
extremity it was gallantly defended
by Sir Arthur's widow. The grounds
extend for some distance along one
of the expansions of the Shannon,
known as Lough Forbes, one of those
loughs^so peculiar^to it in the earlier
portions of its course.
31 m. rt. a road is giyen off to the
village of Drumlish, 4 m. Crossing
the river Binn, the rly. leaves on 1.
the village of
Hooeky, at which point the traveller
quits the county of Longford for that
of Leitrim. Both counties are sepa-
rated from Boscommon by the Shan-
non, here crossed by a swivel erected
by the commissioners for the im-
provement of that river. Augha-
more House is the residence of
H. N. Lawder, Esq. [A road on
L, crossing the bridge, runs to
1 m. Strokestown, passing the S.
end of Lough Bofin, and subse-
quently of Lougb Eilglass, both
extensions of and connected with
the Shannon, which twists about
the country in an .extraordinary
manner.] From Bofosfcy thfe road'
follows closely the E. bank of the
Shannon, that here expands into
Lough Bofin and Lough Boderg,
which, from their indented and
wooded shores, oifer some very
pretty scenery, all the more ac-
ceptable after the bare fiats of
Longford.
37 m. Drumod was at one period
fomous for its iron -works, esta-
blished here to work the ore foimd
in the parisli.
39 m. 1., on a wooded promontory
dipping into the Shannon, is Derrj--
carne, the seat of W. Ormsby Gore,
Esq., M.P. A sharp skirmish is rc-
coiued as having taken place at this
spot (where there is a ford) between
the soldiers of James II. and William
respectively.
[From brumod it is 5 m. to
Mohillt a small town situated near
the head of Lough Biun. A fine
abbey of canons regular once ex-
isted here, but no traces are left ex-
cept a small circular tower. In the
neighbourhood are Bynn Castle, a
seat of the Earl of Leitrim, Lakefield
(D. Crofton, Esq.), Clooncahir (Sir
Morgan Crofton, Bart.), and Dru-
mod House (W. P. Jones, Esq.).]
43 m. 1. is the little ch. of Anna-
dufT, and
44 m. Drumma, a village situated
in the neighbourhood of lovely
scenery. " In one direction are seen
the windings of the Shannon through
a fertile district, the projection of a
wooded peninsula on its course, the
heights of Sheebeg and Sheemore,
with the more lofty mountains of
Slievi-an-ieran in the distance ; and
in the other the luxuriant and varied
swell of Teeraroon, the adjacent part
of the county of Boscommon." The
Shannon here makes a complete
turn upon itself, running between the
demesnes of Mount Campbell (W. A.
Lawder, Esq.), and Charlestown, the
seat of Sir Gilbert King, Bart. The
road to Carrick, however, does not
follow this serpentine course, but
crosses the river twice within a ndle,
afriving at
45 m. Jamestoicn, a small market-
town, incorporated by James I., which
was the scene of a few skirmishes
in 1689 between the Enniskilleners
and the Irish imder Sarsfield. The
road passes under a castellated gate-
way, near which is Jamestown Lodge,
the residence of Hugh O'Beime,
Esq.
47i m. Carrick-on-Shannon {Inn,
St. George's Arms), a small town, de-
riving its sole importance from being
the county town of Leitrim, where
all the assize business is held. It
formerly sent 2 members to the Irish
parliament, but the franchise was
abolished at the time of the Union,
15G
BoiUe 18. — Mtdlingar to Sligo,
Ireland
when 15,000Z. was awarded as com-
pensation. The town has been
much benefited by its situation on
tlio Shannon, which by means of the
Improvement Commission has been
rendered navigable aa fiir as Lough
Allen.
Digtances.—Leiirim, SJ m. ; Boyle,
9i ; Drmnshambo, 7^ ; Longford, 22.
The principal proprietor in this
neighbourhocKi is C. St. George,
Esq., who resides at Hatley Manor,
in the town.
Quitting Carrick, the traveller
again crosses tlie Shannon for the
last time, though in so doing he by
no means loses sight of the chain of
lakes, as the Boyle river, which
now accompanies the road, is even
more peculiar in its lough system
than the Shannon. The Boyle water
is in fact a succession of lakes,
connected together by a short river.
[At 52 m. a road on rt. is given
on to Leitrim and Drumshambo,
crossing the Boyle at the E. end of
Oakport Lough, and passing on 1.
the grounds of Oakport House ( —
MoUoy, Esq.), while a little further
on, near the ch. and glebe of Ardcarn,
another road crosses at the end of
Lough Key, and traverses the country
at the N.E. of Lough Arrow, to Col-
looney and Sligo.]
At Ardcarn the tourist approaches
the beautiful grounds of Bockingham,
the seat of Viscount Lorton, which
for charming situation, united to all
the improvements secured by modem
landscape gardening, is equal to any
place in Ireland. In front of the
ruins of the mansion, which was
unfortunately burnt down in April
1863,* spreads out Lough Key, the
prettiest and most varied of all these
northern lakelets, studded with is-
lands and fringed with woods. On one
are the ruins of a ch., and on another
of a castle, formerly the stronghold
of a chieftain named M*Dermott.
56 m. Boyle (anc. Buill) {Hotel :
* The restoration is being actively pro-
ceeded with.
Monson's) is in itself a dirty place,
though redeemed by its very pretty
situation ocf the river-side, and the
unique ecclesiastic ruins hard by.
The best part of the town is on
the W. bank of the river, which is
crossed by no less than 3 bridges,
the principal one being balustraded,
and of 3 arches of remarkably good
span. The old residence of the Kfiigs-
town femily is now used as a barrack.
The ivy-clad abbey ruins, to which
the attention of the archseologist
will be at once directed, are situated
on the N. of the town, by the side of
the river, which here flows swiftly
and deeply through a charmingly
wooded glen, and is crossed by a
good single-arched bridge. They
are in the private grounds of the
Misses Robertson, by whom ad-
mission is granted instantly. A Cis-
tercian house was founded here by
Maurice O'Dubhay in 1161, which in
the same century had the honour of
receiving the corpse of M*Dermot,
King of Moylurg; but, like most
abbeys, it suffered much harsh treat-
ment, first in 1235 at the hands of
the English forces under the Lords
Justices Fitzgerald and M*William,
and again from the soldiers of
Cromwell, who, according to their
usual practice, stabled their horses
in it, and carved their names on
the doors. From the road the
visitor has a good view of the beau-
tiful W. front, exhibiting the E.
window at the end of the vista.
It contains a single Early Pointed
window with good moulding and
dripstone, and is flanked by square
buttresses. Like most of the abbeys
of that period, Boyle was cnici-
form, with a central tower. The
nave, which is 131 ft. long, is
divided on the N. side by 3 Early
Pointed arches. Notice the' exquisite
mouldings that form the corbels of
the vaulting arches, and on the
S. the 8 arches of pure Norm,
character, with the curious dis-
tinction between the 4 westerly
Ieelasd. BotUe 18. — Curlew Hilla — Kesh Hills.
157
pillars, which are piers, while the
remaining ones are columns. The
sculpture on the capitals of the
pier-arches is singular, and should
be well studied. The arches on the
other side have been apparently
blocked. At the intersection of the
tower are 3 exquisite segmentalarches,
though the chancel arch itself is
Early Pointed. The N. transept,
which has an aisle, is lighted by a
2 light Norm, window deeply splayed
inwardly, and contains, as also does
the S. transept, 2 Ejirly Pointed
arches leading into a recessed chapel,
perhaps a sacristy. Underneath
the courtyard, which is neatly
and trimly kept —
" A flowry grene.
Full thick of grass, full soft and swete "—
is a subterranean passage, which
communicates with the barrack in
the town. The offices were very
extensive, and are in tolerable pre-
servation, especially as regards the
kitchen and hospitium. In the
porter's lodge the names of the
soldiers of Cromwell are yet visible
carved on the doors. The abbey con-
tains ihe burial-place of the noble
fitmily of King, to whom it still
belongs, and the antiquary will not
fail to give credit to Capt. Robert-
son for having so diligently and
zealously cleared the ruins from the
accumulated rubbish of centuries.
The other remains in the neigh-
bourhood of Boyle are the ch. of
Asselyn, which stands on the banks
of the river near Lough Key, and a
cromlech "on the rt. side of the
road leading to Lough Gara, the
table-stone of which is 15 ft. long
and 11 wide, and was formerly sup-
ported on 5 upright pillars."
Besides Eockingham, there are
also the following residences in the
neighbourhood of Boyle— Oootehall
(J. Barton, Esq.), Mount Erris (J.
Duckworth, Esq.), and Knockadoo.
Conveyance. — Vox daily to Castlc-
xea.
Distances. — Longford, 31 m. ; Sligo,
234; Tuam, 26; Frenchpark, 9;
Caslierea, 17 ; Ballinafad, 4 ; Carrick,
9J ; Leitrim, 11.
Very soon after leaving Boyle the
road mounts in steep zigzags the
Curlew Hills, which, though only
863 ft. in height, assume a certain im-
portance from their sudden eleva-
tion. The views over Boyle, Lough
Key, and, more to the rt.. Lough Grara,
are very beautiful, while from the
summit an equally extensive view
opens out over BalUnafad and Lough
Arrow. Descending on the opposite
side,
60 m. Ballinafad is prettily situ-
ated on the shores of Lough Arroio,
a considerable lake about 5 m. in
length, which, as far as a good many
flourishing plantations go, is cheer-
ful and smiling, though the bleak
character of the country round de-
tracts considerably from its beauty.
The castle of Ballinafad is on the
1. of the road, and consists of 3
circular towers with connecting
walls. On the W. side of Lough
Arrow the road passes the well-
wooded demesne of Hollybrook (J.
Ffolliot, Esq.), while on the opposite
shore are Kingsborough House, with
2 or 3 small ruins, ecclesiastical and
military, the latter of which are dotted
over the country in marvellous pro-
fusion. This district also abounds
with raths, erroneously beUeved to
be Danish.
Immediately on 1. is a picturesque
chain known as the Kesh Hills, con-
sisting of 2 principal heights, Kesh
Corrin (1183 ft), and Carrowkesh
(1062). From them there is a very
line view of the Ox Mountains, with
the Sligo and Manor Hamilton Hills
due N. On the W. face of Kesh
Corrin, which is composed of tabular
limestone, are the entrances to some
extensive caves, said not to have
been entirely explored. Here dwelt
the harper Corran, to whom the
Tuatha de Danaan gave this district
as a reward for musical skill.
158
Bouie 18. — Mtdlingar to Sligo.
IRELA^'D,
[(57| m., on 1. 1 m. is Newpark
House (Jemmett Duke, Esq.), and
8 m. beyoud is Ballymote (anc.
Boile-an-mhota), now little more
than a village, but formerly of
importance, owing to its fortress,
winch was built in 1300 by Eichard
de Burgo, Earl of Ulster, of such
strength that it offered a serious
impediment to the subjugation of
Connaught. This castle, which is
strengthened by towers at the angles,
occupies an area of 150 square ft.
There are also remains of a Fran-
ciscan monastery, with the muti-
lated figure of a pope over the en-
trance. The fiiars of this establish-
ment were celebrated for their learn-
ing, and wrote the * Book of Bally-
mote,' extant to this day. **It was
written by different persons, but
chiefly by Solomon O'Droma and
Manus O'-Duigenan, and begins with
an imperfect copy of the *Leabhar
Gabh^' or Book of Invasions of
Erin, foUowed by a series of andent
chronolo^cal, historical, and eenea-
lo^cal pieces, with pedigrees of Irish
samts, &c." — Prof. 0*Currey. The ch.
of Bcillymote has a very graceful
tower and spire. A little beyond the
town is Temple Lodge (Col. Per-
ceval), on the banks of the lake of
the same name ; and in the grounds
are the ruins of a house l^rmerly
belonging to the Knights Templars.j
^ Soon after passing the village of
Drumfin, near which is Coopers
Hill, the seat of C. W. O'Hara,
Esq., M.P., the scenery begins to
improve, and becomes very pretty
at 71 m., near Cloonmahon (Mrs.
Meredith), and Marhree Castle^ the
splendid seat of the late E. J. Cooper,
Esq., who contributed much to
the advancement of astronomical
science, and possessed some cele-
brated instruments for that purpose.
The woods of this magnificent pro-
perty extend for a long distance, and
abound in cliarming glades, which
are watered by the Unshiu river and
a number of small tributary brooks.
A little further on is the hamlet
of Toberscanavan, close to a small
lough; and at 73 m. the traveller
arrives at
Cdlooneyt as comfortable, well-
built, and pretty a village as he
will meet with in all Ireland. Two
considerable rivers, the Owenmore
and Owenbeg, unite their waters a
little below Annaghmore, the seat of
C. L'Estrange, Esq., and about 2| m.
above Collooney, where a very large
volume of water flowing over a
ledge of rocks forms a picturesque
cas^ide, and is available for some
extensive corn-mills, which give a
great air oi business to the village.
'JWiere is also a rather pretty ch. on
some rising ground to the 1.
[A road skirts the woods of Mark-
ree Castle, passing by Castle Dan-
gan (T. Ormsby, Esq.; and the village
of Ballintogher, to 10 m. Dromahoire
(Kte. 8).].
Distances. — ^Ballysadare, IJ m. ;
Dromahaire, 10.
The road now follows the river to
74^ m. Ballysadare (Rte. 22). Between
these two villages a sharp skirmish
took place between a body of French
who landed at Killala in 1798, and a
detachment of Limerick militia and
some dragoons under Col. Vereker,
who had unsuccessfully attacked the
invaders. He was ultimately obliged
to retreat with the loss of his artillery
to Sligo.
Ballysadare, like Collooney, is a
prosperous well-to-do place, depen-
dent to a great extent on very va-
luable salmon-fisheries, which were
the property of, and indeed owe their
being to, the late Mr. Cooper of
Markree, who placed a number of
ladders by which the fish might as-
cend the falls. The river here falls
into Ballysadare Bay over a con-
siderable distance of shelving rock,
forming the prettiest series of rapids
possible.
On the opposite side of the river
is a small ivy-grown abbey, founded
by St. Fechin in the 7th cent., and
1
Ireland.
Boute 19. — Boscommon.
15^
wMcli in its day was richly en-
dowed. - A good deal of business is
done in the exportation of com and
flour ; ships of 100 tons being enabled
to come into the little harbour. From
hence it is a pleasant drive to Sligo ;
Knocknarea, with its truncated sum-
mit on the 1., and the Slish Mountains
on the rt., forming constant chcmges
of landscape.
79 m. SUgo (Rte. 8). {Hotels: Im-
perial, Victoria.)
ROUTE 19.
FROM ATHLONE TO ROSCOMMON,
CASTLEREAGH, BALUNA, A3XD
BELMULLET.
The Great Northern and Western
Bly. runs at present from Athlone to
Castlebar, a distance of 72 m. ; pass-
ing through a very uninteresting and
thinly inhabited country, although
the first few miles are relieved by
some charming views on the rt. of
Lough Rea.
12 m. Knockcroghery (famous for
its manufactory of tobacco-pipes) is
the nearest station from whence to
miake an excursion to St. John's or
Rindown Castle, about 5 m. to the
S.E., occupying a promontory on the
shore of Lough Rea. " Rin-duin," the
point of the fort, is mentioned in the
'Annals of the Four Masters' as
having existed in 1156, and is be-
lieved to have been an early strong-
hold of the Danish King Tur^esiua
in the 9th cent. It was long m the
possession of the O'Connors, from
whom it was taken by the English
in the 13th cent. As described in
Weld's * Survey of Roscommon,' this
castle was built in the form of a P,.
the tail of the letter being occupied
by a banqueting-hall, and the head
by the keep, a massive tower, about
50 ft. in breadth, overgrown with ivy
of extraordinary richness of growth.
To the E. of the castle are the re-
mains of a watch-tower, the whole
being protected by a broad ditch,
which formerly converted the pe-
ninsula into a promontoiy, and a
wall 564 yds. long, with an arched
gateway in the cenbre, and defensive
towers at intervals. Near the castle
are remains of a small early ch., of
about the 13th cent. The pleasantest
mode of visiting Rindown will be by
water from Athlone, particularly as
under the castle walls there is a
snug little anchorage, known as Safe
Harbour.
14^ m. Ballymurry.
18 m. Roscommon (anc. Rus-cho-
main) {Hoteh: Victoria; Royal) is-
a neat -looking country town (Pop.
2731), with little beauty of situation
to reconmiend it, but containing trvo
remains of its former greatness — the
Abbey and the Castle. The former,
in the lower part of the town, con-
sists of a ch. 137 ft. long, " with
a northern transept, in which is an
aisle separated by 4 pointed arches,,
resting on massive round pillars;
over the principal entrance is a beau-
tiful window, with an architrave de-
corated with pinnacles ; the windows
in the choir are lancet-shaped and
much mutilated. Under an arch in
the N. side of the choir is a tomb
with a mutilated effigy, said to be that
of O'Connor, and on the base are 4
warlike figures representing ancient
Gkdlowglasses." This O'Connor, said
to be interred here, was the founder
of the priory and King of Connaught
160
Boute 19. — AtJdone to Belmttllet.
Ireland.
in 13th cent. Seen from the railway
the castle makes an imposing appear-
ance on the side of the hill. The
present building dates from 1268,
and was the work of John D'Uflford,
Justiciary of Ireland. It occupies
a large quadrangular area, defended
by a round tower at each angle,
as well as by two similar ones pro-
jecting from the E. to protect the
gateway. One only of these towers
is roofed, and forms a lofty room,
vaulted overhead, and said to have
been a coimcil-chamber. In the
inner court is a rectangular building
containing the state apartments.
Boscommon Castle is, as far as extent
foes, one of the finest in the king-
om, and, according to tradition, was
in good preservation up to a later
date than most fortresses. It is said
to have been inhabited up to the
battle of Aughrim, in the reign of
William HI., when the fugitive Irish
escaping from that engagement set
fire to it.
1^ m. to the K. E. of Roscommon
are remains (though small) of the
Abbey of Deerane, probably de-
pendent on that of Roscommon;
with the exception of a good window,
they present nothing worthy of visit.
Conveyances, — Rail to Athlone and
Castlebar.
Distances. — Castlereagh, 17 m. ;
Athlone, 18; Ballinasloe, 25.
24 m. at Dunamon the Suck
river is crossed by a long causeway
bridge, and again, a little below, at
Castie Coote. On the opposite side
of the water is Dunamon Castle
(St. George Caulfield, Esq.). The
line now follows the valley of the
Buck, if such a sluggish stream can
be said to have a vafley, and, passing
31 m. 1. the village of Ballymoe,
arrives at
35 m. Castlereagh^ an uninterest-
ing town of about 1 500 Inhab., rather
prettily situated on the Suck, which
is here adorned with some good
timber belonging to the demesne
of the late Lord Mount Sandford, and
now the property of T. J. Sandford,
Esq. The antiquary may visit the
circular cemetery of Cniachau or
Rathcroghan, ** which is of a circular
form, measuring 116 paces in dia-
meter, and surrounded with a stone
ditch greatly defiaced. Within are
small circular mounds, covering rude
sepulchral chambers formed of stone,
without cement of any kind, and
containing unburnt bones. The
monument of Dathi, with its piUar
of red sandstone, is outside the en-
closure, at a short distance to the
E." — Petrie. To show the celebrity
of this cemetery, the Cpnnaught poet
writes thus : —
.* There is not at thU place 't.'
A bill at Venach na Cniacbna,
Which is not the grave of a king or royal
prince.
Or of a woman or warlike poet"
Conveyances. — Rail to Athlone,
Castlebar, and Westport. Cars daily
to Ballina and Sligo.
Distances. — Boyle, 18m.; French-
park, 8i ; Claremorris, 22.
The remainder of tliis route is per-
formed by a car, which traverses a
dreary coimtry, as far as Lough Cullin,
when it begins to improve.
62 m. Ki&elly.
59 m. Swine^ord, a poor little
place, in the neighbourhood of which
18 Brabazon Park, the seat of Major
Brabazon. At 61 m. Cloongullaun
bridge the traveller crosses the Moy
(anc. Muaidh), one of the most
important rivers in the N.W. of
Ireland. It rises In the Ox moun-
tains, in county Sligo, and, flow-
ing southwards from thence, re-
ceives the waters of the Owenaher
and the Owengarve, and for a consi-
derable distance divides the counties
of Mayo and Shgo. Near Swine-
ford it flows due W. for a few miles,
and then to the N., keeping a pa-
rallel course with Loughs Cullin and
Conn. Soon the road diverges —
that to the rt. direct to Ballina — [the
other runs to Foxford, and then falls
into the Westport road.
Irelaxd.
BotUe 19. — BalUna.
161
Foxford is a small town of some
1200 Inhab., in the neighbourhood
of sceneiy far superior to any that
the traveller has yet met with. The
hills begin to close in, and on the
N.W. attain the height of 1095 ft.
in the range of the Sieve Gamph
mountains. Foxford is a place of
some antiquity, and was formerly the
key to the district of Tyrawley, lying
to the W. The Moy runs um)ugh
the town, and is fordable at a point
called Cromwell's Rock, where the
Protector and his army are alleged
to have crossed.] The remainder of
the route follows the valley of the
Moy, passing on rt. a few small
loughs to
73 m. Ballina (anc. Bel-an-atha)
(Hotels : Flynn's, tolerable ; Royal)
(Route 22), a bu^, dirty place,
£ome 5 m. distant urom the mouth
of the Moy. The only historical
events connected with it are the
iittack and capture of the town by
the French who in 1798 landed at
Killala, under Gen. Humbert. On
this occasion the Rev. S. Fortescue,
the rector of the town and a volun-
teer, was shot by a party in ambus-
cade. The Moy is here developed
into a broad stream, and separates
Bligo from Mayo; the district on
the rt. or Sligo side is called Ard-
naree, and the communications main-
tained by a couple of handsome
bridges. On the E. side is a large
Roman Catholic chapel, worth a
short inspection, together with the
ruins of an ancient abbey, founded
by St. Bolcan, with a well-designed
pointed doorway.
The situation of Ballina is good,
and the views of Nephin and hills
on the W. of Lough Conn are very
fine; but the town itself is not
particularly attractive. The fishery
is, however, of great importance. At
the faUs weirs have been built by
Mr. Little at a cost of 1500Z. " Boat
and attendance 5«. a-day. All fish
retained at the weir or taken at the
market price. The fish are small |
and plentiful, being mostly grilse,
with an occasional sahnon. A few
good salmon are sometimes got in
the spring." — Angler's Register.
Conveyances. — Car daily to Sligo ;
car to Westport ; car to Belmullet,
through CroiBsmoUna and Bangor;
to Castlereagh ; coach to Athenry.
Distances. — Foxford, 13 m. ; Sligo,
36; Dromore, 15; Westport, 23;
Castlebar, 22; Pontoon, 11; Cross-
molina, 7 j ; Belmullet, 49 ; Killala,
8 ; Roserk, 5.
Excursions. —
1. Killala, Roserk, and Moyne.
2. Pontoon.
3. Nephin.
The route followed by the public
car to Belmullet traverses the dreary
districts of Tyrawley and Erris. The
best way for the tomrist is to skirt the
coast, by which means he may pay
a visit to Roserk and Moyne Abbeys.
From Ballina the road keeps the 1.
side of the Moy, passing through
the demesne of Belleek Castle (E.
Howley, Esq.) and Belleek Abbey
(Col. Knox Gore).
5 m. in a doll overlooking the
Moy are the ruins of Roserk or
Rosserick Abbey (Ross-Searka, the
promontory of Searka), founded for
Franciscan friars by the sept of
Joyce. It is somewhat similar to
Clare Gulway — a cruciform ch., with
a lofty tower rising from the in-
tersection of nave and transepts.
Of a similar (Dec.) character is
the Abbey of Moyne, 3 m. to the
N., which has a length of 135
feet, some good Dec. windows, and
a slender tower. "It lies in a se-
questered pastoral di^ict, on the
banks of the bay, watered by a small
rill, which, dippmg into the granular
limestone, rises again under the ch.
and supplies the convent. From the
top of the tower, the ascent to which
is both easy and safe, a good view is
obtained of the building, the sur-
rounding country, the bay, diversified
by the island of Bartragh, and the
accompanying ledges oi long low
162
Boute 19. — AiJdone to Belmullet,
Ireland^
white-crested sandhills." — Fraser,
At the S. end of the island is Bart-
ragh House (J. Kirkwood, Esq.).
9 m. KiUala, an interesting little
place, both as being the seat of a
fonner bishopric, now consolidated
with that of Tuam, and as the scene
of the landing of the FreQch under
Gen. Humbert, in 1798. TTith two
frigates, having on board 1100 men,
this expedition sailed &om Bochelle,
with the intenti(Mi of making a de-
scent upon Donegal ; but, in conse-
quence of adverse winds, the General
was forced to land in Kilcummin
Bay, a little to the N. of Killala,
and proceeded to Ballina, where the
unfortunate death of Mr. Forester
took place.
The see of EiUala is very andent,
having been founded by St. Patrick
in the 5th cent. The cathedral is a
plain building of the 17th cent., with
later alterations, occupying the site
of a much earlier ch., erected by
Gobhan, an eminent architect of the
6th cent. The round tower, which
is placed on an insulated eminence,
is of the same date, but was struck
by lightning in 1800, and consider-
ably damao:ed thereby. Of contem-
poraneous date, and built by the same
individual, are the towers of Kilmac-
duagh and Antrim. Killala was at
one time a brisk little seaport ; but
Ballina, with its superior advan-
tages, has taken almost all the trade
from it. The Owenmore is crossed
by a fine bridge of 11 arches at Pal-
merstown, the property and former
seat of the family of Palmer. The
mansion was destroyed in the troubles
of '98. On the rt. bank of the river
is Castlereagh, the seat of E. Knox,
Esq.
[IJ m. rt. are the ruined ch. of
Rathfran and some earthen forts at
Snmmerhill.
3 m. Kilcummm, containing the
coll and biuial-plac^ of Cumin, or
Curaean Fin, a saint who flourished
in the 7th cent.]
18 m. Ballycastlc, commands a
splendid view of Downpatrick Head,,
which rises to the height of 126 ft.
about 3 m. to the N. The singular rock
of Boonbristy, standing detached
from the land, testifies to the violence
of the Atlantic waves along this
coast. The geological composition
of this coast is that of yellow sand-
stone, both at the Head and the
opposite promontory of Benmore,
between which is a narrow slip ot
lower limestone, affording at Pollna-
muck many typical shells and carb..
fishes. From Ballycastle to Bel-
mullet the road lies through a
country of wild desolate moimtains,,
seldom rising above 1200 ft., but as
dreary and untameable as anything
in Ireland. It forms the district of
Erris, lying to the N. of the barony of
Tyrawley, and is very seldom visited*
The coast scenery, however, will well
repay any pedestrian tourist, with
whom time is no object. From
Ballycastle tlie traveller may return
to Ballina through the valley of
BaUinglen, about 16 m. A Httle
way from the village the road crosses
the Bfdlinglen, which falls into the
Bay of Bunnatrahir, and then keeps
close to tlie N. coast, at the base of
Maumakeogh 1245 ft., and Glencolry
1155 ft, to Bealderrig Bay, from
whence it runs inland to the S.W.,.
leaving the finest part of the coast
without any road at all, save foot-
paths to the coast-guard stations at
Porturlin and Portacloy.
From Bealderrig Bay, where we
enter upon a district of primary rocks,,
to Benwee Head, the coast offers a
constant succession of grand scenes.
" Moista Sound is 4 m. W. from
Bealderrig. It is a chasm about a
cable's length from one extremity ta
the other, so narrow that a boat's
oars must be reefed in passing through
it. It is formed by a gigantic trap-
dyke ; the trap rock has fallen out,,
leaving this chasm, the sides of which
are absolutely vertical, the northern
350 ft. high, the otlier 450 ft, and
on the southern side the cliff rises-
Ieeland.
BoUite 19. — Belmullet.
163
350 ft. more, almost vertically, mak-
ing 800 ft. ; but when in the Sound
the upper portion is yariable. The
Arch is about 8 m. from Bealderrig,
and near the coast-guard station of
Porturlin. It is 30 ft. in height,
and may be rowed through in penect
safety at half- tide and in moderate
weather. It is also a trap-dyke;,
here, however, the trap remains,
excepting at the bottom, where, by
its having fallen out, the arch is
formed ; me keystone, as it may be
termed, being about 600 ft. high,
reaching to the top of the chff.
From hence to the lofty and nearly
isolatedpromontoryofDoonvinallagh,
10 m. W. from Bealderrig, is one suc-
cession of magnificent cliffs, head-
lands, and bays. Near the northern
extremity of the promontory, to the
"W. of the beautiful little harbour of
Portacloy, is a cavern about* 30 ft.
high at the entrance, and wide
enough for a boat to row in. It
tlien expands into a spacious circular
shape, with a lofty domical roof." —
Fraser,
The Stags of Broadhaven, so con-
spicuous in all the coast views of
Erris, and from the Donegal side,
are 7 precipitous rocks, about 300 ft.
high, 1^ m. to the N. of Benwee
Head. This latter rises to 829 ft.,
and is well worth the ascent for the
sake of the superb view over AchiU,
Blacksod Bay, and Ballycroy to the
S., the Sligo and the Donegal
coast to the N.E. ; but the pedestrian
must remember that there is no
accommodation of any sort neai'er
than Belmullet, which is at least
8 miles distant across country.
The road from Bealderrig to Bel-
mullet passes through a very bleak
and uninteresting district, which re-
quires the most delightful weather
to render it at all agreeable. At 35
m. it crosses the Glenamoy river as
it enters an inlet of Broadhaven, and
at 42 m. the isthmus that intervenes
between Lough Carrowmore and Bel-
mullet Sound.
Passing through Derrycorrib, a
village at the foot of Glencastle Hill,,
and on the Glencastle river, the
tourist reaches
49 m. BelmuUety 85 years ago a
miserable collection of huts, and now
a thriving little seaport. It is sin-
gularly placed on a strip of land
400 yards broad, intervening between
Broadhaven on the N. and Blacksod
Bay on the S. : a canal has been cut
through it, so that vessels, which
were formerly wind-bound for weeks
in the neighbourhood of the Mullet
promontory, can at once go through.
There is a good market here ; it being
the emporium for the greater part
of Erris and Ballycroy. Belmullet
is the key of the peninsula of Mullet,
which extends N. as far as Erris
Head, and runs S., gitidually taper-
ing away to Blacksod Point, exactly
opposite Slieve More, in AchiU
Island. Thus, while one side of the
Mullet is exposed to the fiercest
stoi-ms of the Atlantic, the other
looks upon two landlocked havens,
Broadhaven and Blacksod, each of
which would contain in security all
the navies of the world. From these
advantages it was at one time pro-
posed to make Belmullet a western
terminus for a trunk railway.
There is not much of interest in
the long peninsula of Mullet, in-
habited localities being few and fur
between. Binghamstown is a collec-
tion of wretched hovels in the neigh-
botirhood of Castle Binghaiii, a square
castellated mansion belonging to the
family of that name, and landlords of
the gi*eater part of this district. As
may be imagined, trees are a rarity,
everything being open to the fierce
blasts of the W. The traveller who
has not made special arrangements
with the hotel-keeper at Ballina may
return by the mail car through
Bangor, or he may by chance catch
a sailing vessel or " booker " coast-
ing down from Belmullet through
Acliill Sound to Westport or Gal-
way.
164
BotUe 20. — Gdlway to Clifden.
Ireland.
ROUTE 20.
FROM GALWAY TO CUFDEN, THROUGH
OUGHTERARDE AND BALLYNA-
HiNCH-
Galway (^Hotels : Railway Hotel, at
the terminus of the Midland Great
Western Rly., attendance bad, and
charges high ; Black's), besides
being the rendezvous for all tourists
bound to Connemara, contains with-
in its precincts so much to interest
that the traveller should make a
point of staying here for 2 or 3
days. Very comfortable lodgings
can be obtained at Miss Grogan's
in Eyre Square. Independently
of its being the principal town
in the coimty, and indeed a
county in itself, as well as the
capital of Connau^ht, it enjoys con-
siaerable natural advantages, and has
capabilities of becoming an important
place, should improvement continue
at the same rate at which it has been
progressing for the last 10 years.
Under various names a town has
been established here from the
earliest times, and Ptolemy mentions
a city called Nagnata, whicli is
generally considered to be identical
with Gkilway. Tliis latter is derived,
according to some, from a legend to
the effect that a woman named Galva
was drowned in the river hard by j
by others, from the GallsBci of
Spain, with whom the town carried
on an extensive trade ; and by others
again, from the Gaels or merchants
by whom it was occupied.
Its early history is that of repeated
ravages by the banes or by their
Mimster neighbours, who looked on
the colony with jealous eyes; but
after the invasion of Connaught by
Henry II. walls began to be erected
for the protection of the town, which
caused a large influx of inhabitants,
among whom were ** a number of fa-
milies, whose descendants are known
to this day under the general appella-
tion of • the Tribes of Galway,* an
expression first invented by Crom-
well's forces, as a term of reproach
against the natives of the town for
their singular friendship and attach-
ment to each other during the time
of their unparalleled troubles and
persecutions, but which the latter
afterwards adopted as an honourable
mark of distinction between them-
selves and their cruel oppressors.'* —
Hardimana Hist. There were 14
of these so-called tribes, the de-
scendants of some of which, as Blake,
Lynch, Joyce, D'Arcy, French, Mar-
tin, ^&c,, are still found amongst
the leading citizens who in those
days carefully guarded themselves
from any intercourse with the native
Irish. In one of the bye-laws, of the
date of 1518, it is enacted "that
no man of this towne shall oste or
receive into their housses at Christe-
mas, Easter, nor no feaste elles, any
of the Burkes, M'Williams, the Kel-
lies, nor no cepte elles, without
license of the mayor and council!,
on payn to forfeit 5Z., that neither O'
nor Mac shalle strutte ne swaggere
thro' the streetes of GaUway."
The following singular inscription
was formerly to be seen over the
W. gate—
•• From the ferocious CFlahertles
Good Lord deliver us."
Owing to its excellent situation, Gal-
way enjoyed for centuries the mo-
nopoly of the trade with Spain, from
whence it received large quantities
Ireland.
Boute 20. — Gdlicay.
165
of wine, aalt, &c., and caused so much
Eersonal intercourse that the town
ecame impressed to a certain degree
with Spanish features, both in the
architecture of the streets as well as
the dress and manners of the popu-
lation ; though it was nevertheless
the habit of former writers to as-
cribe too much to the supposed
Spanish origin of the town, overlook-
ing the fact that it was inhabited by
an essentially Anglo-Norman colony.
The 1st charter was granted by
Edward III., and confirmed in suc-
cessive reigns. Galway reached its
highest point of opulence at the
commencement of the Irish Bebellion
in 1641, during which period it was
remarkable for its loyalty to the
King, and suffered a siege and such
barbarous treatment at the hands of
the Parliamentary army, that at the
Bestoration the town was almost
wholly decayed.
"After the battle of Aughrim,
Gen. de GmkeU. with 14,000 of
William's army, laid siege to it ; and,
after holding out for some time, it
surrendered on the 20th July 1691,
on condition of a safe-conduct for
the garrison to Limerick and a free
pdrdon of the inhabitants, with pre-
servation of their property and pri-
vileges."— Lewis,
Gialway is situated on gently rising
ground on the N. side and near the
head of the bay. The greater portion
of the town is built upon a tongue of
land, bounded on the E. by Lough
Athalia, an arm of the sea, and on
the W. by the river which forms the
outlet of Lough Corrib. The other
and smaller part is on the opposite
bank of the nver and in the district
known as lar-Connaught, the connec-
tion being maintained by 1 wooden
and 2 stone bridges. The TT. Bridge
is a very ancient structure of the
date of 1342, and formerly possessed
2 tower gateways at the W. and
centre; mese, however, have long
disappeared. The upper Bridge^ lead-
ing &om the Court-house, was erected
in 1818. From a map (of which only
2 copies are extant) made in 1651,
by the Marquis of Clamicarde, to
ascertain the extent and value of the
town, it appears that Galway was
then entirely surrounded by walls,
defended by 14 towers and en-
tered by as many gates. A poetical
description in Latin appended to
this map informs us that —
" Bis nrbls septem defendunt mcBnia turres
Intus. et ex duro est marmore quseqne
domus.*'
Since the middle of the last cent,
the fortifications went fast to decay,
and now nothing remains but a
frcLgment near the quay, and a
massive archway leading to Spanish
Place. There is also a square, bastion
of ^eat thickness in Francis-street,
and a portion of wall with a round-
headed blocked arch ; but it is only
of the date of William I., and was in
a perfect state not many yeais ago.
Within the last cent, the town has
so much increased as to cover more
than double the space formerly oc-
cupied within the walls. The streets,
however, though containing seveial
handsome buildings, are narrow, in-
convenient, and dirty ; nevertheless,
the antiquary will find very much
to interest him in the remarkable
architectural features of the houses,
which are foreign to a degree un-
known in any other town in the
kingdom. Yet too much has been
written and said about the present
appearance of Galway ; for time and
modem improvements have to a
certain extent obliterated many of
the ancient^ remains, which, with
some exceptions, are not so patent
to the general tourist as might be
imagined from the glowing descrip-
tions. The old houses require looking
for, and the more time and care that
the traveller bestows on the back
streets, the more will he be re-
warded. Many of the houses are
built Spanish fiishion, with a small
court (patio) in the centre, and an
arched gateway leading into the
166
Bonte 20. — Gcdway,
Ireland.
street ; but it requires some effort of
imagination to identify these ill-kept
and overcrowded dwellings with the
gay residences of the Spanish mer-
chants. The most striking specimen
of domestic architecture is Lynch's
Mansion, a large square building at
the comer of Shop and Abbeygate-
streets, having square-headed door-
ways and windows, with richly de-
corated mouldings and dripstones.
There is also a portion of the cornice
or projecting balustrade at the top
of the house, the horizontal support-
ing pillars being terminated with
grotesque heads. On the street face
are richly ornamented medallions,
containing the arms of the Lynches,
with their crest — a lynx. Notice
also the carved figure of a monkey
and child, which commemorates the
saving of an infent belonging to the
family, b^ a favourite monkey, on
an occasion when the house was
burnt. The same anecdote is told of
John Ist Earl of Kildare, whose
crest, taken from this occurrence,
consists of a monkey. This monu-
ment of a great and powerful family
is now used as a cnandler*s shop.
On the opposite side of the same
street is another ancient house with
windows of Saracenic character.
In Lombard-street, close to the
ch., are a window and wall, on which
is a stone bearing the legend of 2
cross bones and the inscription —
"Bemember death. All is vanity of vaul'
ties"— 1521—
in memory of the following occur-
rence. James Lynch Fitzstephen,
the then Mayor of Galway, had
been one of the most successful of
the citizens in promoting commerce
with Spain, which he had himself
personally visited, having been re-
ceived with every mark of hospi-
tality. To make some return for all
this kindness, he proposed and ob-
tained permission from his Spanish
host to take his only son back with
him to Ireland, where the latter
speedily became a favourite from his
winning manners and beauty. The
mayor liad also an only son, un-
fortunately addicted to evil com-
pany, but who, he hoped, was likely
to reform from the circumstance of
his being attached to a Galway lady
of good fiimily. And so it might have
proved, had he not jealously fancied
that the lady looked too graciously
upon the Spaniard. Bous^ to mad-
ness, he watched the latter out of
the house, stabbed him, and then,
stung with remorse, gave himself up
to justice, to his father's unutterable
dismay. Notwithstanding the en-
treaties of the townsfolk, with whom
the youth was a favourite, the stem
parent passed sentence of death, and
actually hung him from the window
with liis own hand. It is generally
believed, however, tibatthe locality of
this tragedy lay in another part of the
city. The family of Lynch, one of
the most celebrated in Galway annals,
is said to have originally come &om
Linz in Austria, of which town one
of them was governor during a siege.
As a reward for his services, he re-
ceived permission to take a lynx as a
crest. The family came to Ireland
in the 13th cent., and flourished till
the middle of the 17th. In 1484
Pierce Lynch was made first Mayor
under the charter of Richard III.,
while his son Stephen was appointed
first Warden by Innocent VIII., and
during the period of 169 years 84
members of tiiis family were mayors.
In Lombard-street is a fine gate-
way belonging to the old Franciscan
convent ; and in Abb^gate-street is
the mansion of the Joyces, with a
finely sculptured doorway and the
inscription —
"Nisi Dominus dointim 8Bdificaverit"~l649.
On a house in the adjoining street
are the arms of Galway.
The ch. of St. Nicholas is a vene-
rable cruciform building, " evidently
the work of different periods, but re-
markable for uniformity in the exe-
Ireland.
Boute 20. — Galtcay,
167
cution, and for order and plan in
the general design." It consists of
nave, with aisles, chancel, transepts,
and central tower surmounted by a
singular pyramidal belfry of much
later date than the rest of the ch.
The breadth across the transepts is
126 ft., and the total length 152 ft.
The nave is separated from the
aisles by 2 rows of good pointed
arclies, defaced, however, by a mo-
dem stone screen, which nearly blocks
them up. The E. and W. windows
(which are plain, of 5 lights) were
formerly remarkable for the beautiful
stained glass. The S. or Lynch's
transept contains a small recess, in
which is an altar of the Joyce family ;
2 headless effigies and coats of arms
of ihe Lynches, 1644 ; a richly-de-
corated side altar with finials ; also
the organ placed on a raised stone
floor, the sides and front of which
are sculptured. Underneath this lies
Mayor Lynch, the hero of tte tra-
fedy mentioned above. The N. or
'rench's transept is used as a vestry,
and contains a slab to the family of
Moriarty OTiemagh, 1580. In the
N. aisle is an ancient confessional.
The font rests on an antique base
with sculptured sides. Externally
the visitor should notice the beau-
tiful pointed W. doorway, and the
S. porch, which has a groined roof.
Above it is the sexton s apartment,
reached by a flight of steps. Close to
the porch is the ruined chapel of St
Mary's, now blocked up, but exhibit-
ing on its exterior some good carving.
Galway was foimerly included
within the diocese of Enachdone
or Annaghdown (j). 181), united in
1324 to the Archbishopric of Tuam.
The Irish clergy who were appointed
gave rise to such dissensioDs that the
ch. was made collegiate in 1484.
During the reigns of Edward VI.
and EUzabeth a change was made in
the ecclesiastical conoitions, and the
ch. put under the charge of a pro-
testant warden, an arrangement
which held good until the recent
death of the late Warden Daly. He
had a jurisdiction distinct from that
of the dicfcese, but Galway is now a
portion of the see of Tuam.
The ancient collegiate establish-
ment stood near tiie W. end of
the ch., but is now let out into
various tenements. Gkilway contains
the usual buildings of a county
town: 2 barracks, 1 known as the
Shambles, near the W. bridge, and
the other near William-street, where
a gate formerly stood ; a " tholsel "
or exchange; a handsome modem
court-home with a Doric front ; and
a gaol remarkable for being built
without any timber. The Roman
Catholic parish chapel is a large plain
building in Middle-street, besides
which are a chapel and nunnery
established by Father Daly. Gralway
is the seat of a Boman Catholic
diocese.
The best part of the town is Eyre
Square, whicli contains some hand-
some residences, a bank, club-house,
and the rly. stat. and hotel, all built
of compact grey limestone. On the
other side of the river is Queen's
College, a fine Gothic building, with
a spacious quadrangle, the archi-
tectural adornments of which are a
feeble imitation of All Souls' College,
Oxford. There are excellent museums
adapted to the educational courses,
and a good library, in which is a
transcribed copy of the Gkilway re-
cords. The town can boast of seve-
ral well-known scholars, as Lynch,
the author of ' Cambrensis Eversus ;*
Flaherty, who wrote the * Ogygia ;*
Kirwan, one of the most learned
chemists of his 6&j, and more re-
cently Hardiman, the librarian of the
college and author of the • History
of Gcdway.* The visitor who is* in-
terested in the education question
should go and see the model school,
a very well-managed institution on
tiie national system. (Pop. 16,967.)
The Harbour has been much im-
proved of late years, and has at-
168
Bouie 20. — Gal way to Glifden.
Ireland.
tracted a considerable share of public
attention in consequence of the dis-
cussion about the Galway subsidy,
in connection with the Atlantic
Steam Company's contract to carry
the mails to America. As a Trans-
atlantic packet station there is no
doubt that i t possesses one advantage
over other ports, viz. its proximity to
America, it being only 1636 ra. to St.
John's, Newfoundland, 2165 to Hali-
fax, 2385 to Boston, and 2700 to New
York. The distance from Galway
to St. John's' is now frequently run
in 5 days. The Bay of Galway con-
sists of a long arm of the sea, pro-
tected at the entrance by the lofly
cliflfs of the islands of Aran, which
in clear weather are visible at a
distance of 29 m., and on the N. and
S. by the coasts of Galway and Clare
respectively. A legend in the annals
of Ireland states that it was once a
freshwater lake known as Lough
Lurgan, one of the 8 principal lakes
in Ireland, and was converted into a
bay by the Atlantic brealdng over,
and uniting with the water therein.
There is no doubt that a submer-
gence of the land, whether gradual
or otherwise, has really been the
cause of the formation of the bay.
" At Bama, probably 10 ft. below
high-water mark, may bo seen on
the strand a turf bog of several feet
in depth, in which are the stumps
and roots of large trees and many
branches of oak and birch inter-
mixed. The same phenomena occur
at the W. side of the island of Omey,
which is far advanced into the At-
lantic Ocean." — Dutton'e Survey.
At the entrance of the harbour is
MuUon Island, connected with the
mainland by a ridge of sand at low
water. There is a fixed light here
33 ft. above the sea. The holding-
ground is good, but there is a want
of shelter from westerly gales, a state
of things which will bo entirely ob-
viated by the erection of the pro-
posed breakwater, which is estimated
to cost 150,000Z. The spring tides
rise in the bay from 12 to 15 ft.
The American steamers, as long as
they sailed, anchored outside Mutton
Island. From Lougli Corrib, which is
only 3 m. distant, a river runs into
the sea with such rapidity that it is
only useful as a means of motive
power, which is made available for
working several flour-mills, but for
the purposes of navigation a canal
callea after the Earl of Eglintoun
was cut by Nimmo, a celebrated
engineer of his day, to connect the
lake with the harbour, and thus
enable the small vessels plying
inland to reach the sea.
There is ample accommodation for
vessels in the floating dock, which
is 5 acres in extent, and admits
vessels of 14 ft. draught, and the
tongue of land which separates the
dock from the river is quayed to the
distance of 1300 ft.
A large number of the population
is employed in the salmon and
herring fishery, and the Gladdagk,
the locality inhabited by the fisher-
men, should be visited by every
tourist. It is an extraordinary assem-
blage of low thatched cottages, the
denizens of which, in dress, habits
and customs, are as different from
those of the town which they adjoin
as though they were 100 m. off.
" The colony from time immemorial
has been nded by one of their own
body, periodically elected, who is
dignified with the title of Mayor,
regulates the community according
to their own peculiar laws and cus-
toms, and settles all their fishery-
disputes. His decisions are so de-
cisive and so much respected, that
the parties are seldom known to
carry their differences before a legal
tribunal or to trouble the civil ma-
gistrates.**— Hardiman's Hist. They
never allow strangers to reside
within their precincts, and always
intermarry with each other, tne
marriage not being thought au regie
Ireland,
BotUe 20. — Gcdway — Svhurha,
169
unless preceded by an elopement.
They have several gala-days, such
as the Feast of St. Patrick and the
Nativity of St. John (June 24), at
which time a procession is organised
through the town, and a number of
ceremonies gone through, not forget-
ting the indispensable bonfire. The
dress of the women of the Claddagh is
very peculiar, and imparts a singu-
larly foreign aspect to the Galway
streets and quays. It consists of a
blue mantle, redbodv-gown and pet-
ticoat, a handkerchief bound round
the head, and legs and feet au
naturd. The traveller who is anxious
to gain further particulars respecting
this interesting community should
consult Hardiman*s * History of Gral-
way.*
Galway is one of the finest loca-
lities in Ireland for the salmon
fisher, who will feel grateful for the
systematic endeavours of Mr. Ash-
croft to improve the fishery by breed-
ing young salmon, and by establishing
a fijh-walk on the Cong river between
Loughs Corrib and Mask.
Conveyances. — To Olifden, through
Moycullen and Oughterarde ; to
Ennis, through Gort and Ardrahan.
Bail to Dublin. Steamer once a
fortnight to Westport and Liverpool.
Distances. — Olifden, 47 m. ; Moy-
cullen, 7 f Oughterarde, 16^ ; Conoj,
27 by water; Westport, 54; Head-
ford, 17 ; Clare-Gralway, 6J ; Athenry,
12 J ; Gort, 21 ; Oranmore, 5 ; Bania,
3 ; Aran Islands, 29 ; Lougbrea, 22.
Many nice residences are found in
the neighbourhood of Gulway, viz.,
Menloe Castle, the seat of Sir Thos.
Blake ; Furboe (A. Blake, Esq.) ;
Barna (Nicholas Lynch, Esq.) ; Le-
naboy (Capt. O'Hara) ; Ardfry (Lord
Wallscourt) ; Mcrview and Renmore,
the seats of Pat. Lynch, Esq., and
Piers Joyce, Esq., both very pret-
tily situated at the head of Lough
Atkalia.
{^Ireland.']
Excursions, —
1. Barna.
2. Cong.
3. Clare-Galway (Rte. 21).
4. Moycullen.
5. Aran Islands.
[Tlie pleasant coast-road may
be taken that runs on the N. of
Gkilway Bay, through 1 m. Salt-
hill^ the favourite suburb of the
wealthy Galwegians, who are gra-
dually creating a marine West-end,
The geologist will find between this
and Barna very much to interest him.
Immediately to the rt. of the road
the granite is seen cropping out and
forming the high grounds to the N,
almost as far as Oughterarde. On the
opposite side of the bay are the cliffs
of Clare, which present lower Silurian
rocks flanking the conglomerate (beds
never seen in England), succeeded by
a valley of denudation in which the
lower limestone shales are visible,
From hence the cliffs rise to the W.,
with the upper limestones throwing
off millstone grit and thin worthless
coal-seams. The white low cliffs at
the water's edge are of drift, of
which a magnificent section is observ-
able nearly opposite Barna House,
at the projecting peninsula of Sea-
weed Point. Here and in the bays
on each side are unique displays of
drift cliffs, filled with fragments of
rock of different formations, all ex-
hibiting the peculiar groovings ; on
the shore, at the bottom of the cliffs,
may be seen large blocks, some
washed out of the cliff, and others
still adherent to their bosses of clay.
The geologist should on no accoimt
omit to carefully study these ap-
pearances, as the drift formation is
here visible on a scale unknown in
England. These drift promontories
are in all probability the coast termina-
tion of the Eskers or ridges of sandy
hill that extend across Ireland from
Dublin, and separated the island
into Its first Milesian divisions of
Leath Mogha on the S., and Leath
Cuinn on the N.
I
170
Boute 20. — Chdway to Clifden,
Ireland.
3 m. Bama House^ a well-wooded
demesne facing the sea, and the re-
sidence of Nicholas Lynch, Esq.
Tticre are slight remains of a castle
that formerly belonged to the
O'Hallorans, from whom the Lynches
acquired it by marriage. 6 m. Fur-
hough or Furbo (A. Blake, Esq.), is
another prettily-situated residence,
aflfording pleasant contrast to the
sterile rocks and highlands inland.
Here the united streams of the
Knock and Loughinch rivers are
crossed.
9J m. Spiddle (or Spital, from its
being the site of an ancient hospi-
tium, of which slight remains still
exist) is a small village at the
mouth of the Owenboliska river, a
rather considerable stream rising
in the dreary moorlands of lar
Gonnaught, a little to the S. of
Oughterarde. The village is some-
times frequented by anglers. From
hence a road is carried over the
most desolate and barren hills to
Moyoullen 8^ m. (p. 175;. Indeed, the
whole of the district is very little dif-
ferent from that described by Moly-
neux in 1709. "I did not see all
this way three living creatures, not
one house or ditch, not one bit of
corn, nor, I may say, one bit of land,
for stones: in short, nothing ap-
peared but stones and sea."
12 m. the Owenriff river is crossed
near Oahir, where there is a lead-
mine.
At Minna once stood the castle
of luveran, the locality, in 1549,
of the murder of Walter Bourke,
brother of ** Iron Richard," the hus-
band of Grace O'Malley.
19J m. This road terminates at
the coast of Cashla Bay, where,
at the coast-guard stat., a boat
may be obtained to cross the inlet.
At 17^ m. a road on rt. runs for 3 m.
to Derrynea Lodge. Here a fishing
stat. has been established by a few
gentlemen who preserve the Cashla
river, a stream of some breadth,
which rises in the moors to the N.,
swelling in its course into numerous
loughs. The region to the W., which
lies principally in the baronies of
Kilcumin and Elillanin, is seldom or
never visited, and indeed holds out no
inducement to the general tourist to
do so, its principal features beuig
moorlands of no great height, covered
at diflferent levels with small fresh-
water lakes, and frequently indented
with the many bays which have ob-
tained for this district the poetic
name of Connemara, or Ouan-an-ir-
more, ** the bay of the great waters.'*
Detached from the coast are 2 con-
siderable islands named Lettermore
and Gk>rumna. Conspicuous in the
S.W. are the
3 islands of Aran, or Aran-na-
neeuv (** the Islands of the Saints "),
known 1000 years ago as "Insulse
in oceano occidentali positsB cogno-
mento Arann," and still believed by
many of the peasantry to be the
nearest land to the far-famed island
of 0*Brazil or Hy Brisail, the blessed
paradise of the pagan Irish. It is
supposed even to be visible from the
cliffs of Aran on particular and rare
occasions —
" On the ocean that hollows the rocks where
ye dwell
A shadowy land has appeared, as they tell ;
Men thought it a region of sunshine and
rest.
And they call'd it O'Brazil. the isle of the
blest."
Griffin.
Passing over the tradition of Lough
Lurgan fp. 168), "the earliest refer-
ence to its prsB-Christian history is to
be found in the accounts of the battle
of Muireadh, in which the Firbolgs,
having been defeated by the Tuatha-
de-Dananns, were driven for refuge
into Aran and other islands on the
Irish coast, as well as into the west-
em islands of Scotland.*' — Haverty.
Christianitv was introduced in the
6th cent, by St. Endeus, who ob-
tained a grant of the islands from
-^ngus, the Ciiristian King of Muii-
ster, and founded 10 religious esta-
blishments, like Bardsey Island, in
Ireland,
Movie 20. — Aran Islands,
171
North Wales, Aranmore speedily ob-
tained a world-wide renown for learn-
ing, piety, and asceticism, and "many
hundreds of holy men from other
parts of Ireland and foreign countries
constantly resorted to it to study the
Sacred Scriptures and to learn and
practise the rigid austerities of a
hermit's life;" in consequence of
which the island was distinguished
by the name of Arana Nuuimh or
Aran of the Saints. In 1651 the
Marquis of Clanricarde fortified the
castle of Ardkyn, which held out
against the Parliamentary army for
more than a year after the surrender
of Galway, but on the occupation of
the island the soldiers of Cromwell
demolished the great ch. of St.
Endeus to furnish materials for the
repair of the fort.
The Aran islands lie across the
entrance of Galway Bay, 29 m. from
the harbour, and consist of 3 in
iiumber^ — Inishmore (the Great Is-
land), 9 m. long and 1 J broad ; Inish-
maan (Middle Island), 3 m. long
and 1^ m. broad ; andloisheer (South
Islan4\ 2| m. long.
A yacht carrying the mails starts
from Galway every second day, but
the traveller must be prepared for
emergencies; for, though he may
reach the island frequently in 4 hrs.,
he may be detained 10 or even
longer. The disembarkation is gene-
rally performed by means of the
" currach, which is about 8 ft. long,
with 1 square and 1 pointed end,
capable of carrying 3 people. Such
is the dexterity with which it is
usually managed, that it will land
from ships in distress through the
roughest breaker^." — Arch. Gamb.
Probably there is no district so
replete with early remains as this,
and the tourist who wishes to make
himself more minutely acquainted
with them should study Dr. Petrie's
work on the Ancient Arcliilecture
of Ireland.
There are 2 villages on Aran-
more— Kilroiiarif at which there is
a decent inn, and KiUeany, both on
the shores of Killeany Bay, at the
S.E. end of the island. The latter,
now a wretched village, was once of
great note, having obtained its name
from St. Endeus or Eaney, the first
Christian missionary. Close to the
sea are the slight niins of Arkyne.
Castle mentioned above. It is not
more ancient than the time of
Elizabeth. Ascending the hill, the
visitor arrives at the Round Tower^
of which, however, only the base
remains, about 5 ft. high and 49
in circumference, though it was
of very considerable height within
the memory of man. Near this, and
on the highest point of the eastern
end of the island, is TeampuU Benain,
the ch. or oratory of St. Benan, an
unique specimen of early Irish ch.,
and considered by Dr. Petrie to be
of the 6th cent. Externally it is
only 11 ft. broad and 15 ft. in
length, and is remarkable for the
great height of the gables, which was
not less than 17 ft., and most pro-
bably formed of overlapping stones.
The ch. stands N. and S., instead of
the usual orientation. Close by are
the remains of the hermitage, partly
sunk in the rock ; and of some clog*
hauns or stone-roofed dwellings, pro-
bably belonging to the monks of
the ch.
On the S.W. coast of the island
is Duhh Caher (Black Fort), a dun
or fortress, with walls of enormous
thickness, of very rude masonry, over-
looking the cliffs. A chevaux-de-
frise of sharp stones served as an
extra means of defence on the land
side, and in the interior are remains
of cloghauns. Dr. O'Donovan con-
siders that this fort was raised by
the very earliest inhabitants of the
country.
From hence a walk of about 2 J m.
will bring the tourist to Kilronan,
the principal village on the island,
(where there is a decent inn, the
Atlantic), either retracing his steps
through Killeauy or by keeping the
I 2
172
Mouie 20. — Galway to Clifden,
Ireland.
S. coast a little higher up to Dubh-
Cathair (the Black City), a fortress
constructed and defended in a similar
manner to the last named. It is
2 m. over the hill from this spot to
Kilronan. A walk of 2 m. to the
"N.W. will embrace a large number
of interesting antiquities. About
1 m. on the rt. is TeampuU Chiarain,
which has a very beautiful E. window
and some crosses. -1| m. on the hill
to 1. is Oghill Fort, a large dun near
the lighthouse, which, it may be
mentioned here, shows a revolving
light at the height of 406 ft. above
the sea. In the neighbourhood of
Cowragh are TeampuU-an-Cheath-
rair-alainn (the ch. of the 4 Comely
Saints), also a cromlech, and the ch.
and Holy Well of St. Soomey.
4 m. from Kilronan, on the N. coast,
are Kilmurvey and Teampull Mic
Duach, a 6th cent, ch., cousisting of
nave and choir in h&uaix^ preserva-
tion, exhibiting some very fine Cyclo-
pean masonry. " There are windows of
extreme cmtiquity, with lintels formed
of 2 leaning stones ; and although the
beautiful semicircular E. window is
of a more recent date, there is a
stone leaning against the E. gable,
with a rudely-cut opening, which
seems to have been the head of the
more ancient window." There is
also a remarkable narrow doorway,
shaped like the entrance to an
Egyptian tomb. Besides these re-
mains there is TeampuU Beg (the
onall ch.), together with the Holy
Well and an Almrla, or monastic
enclosmre. On the S. coast, barely
1 m. distant, is the fortress of Dun
Mngm, described by Dr. Petrie as
** the most magnificent barbaric mo-
nument now extant in Europe." It
is built on the very edge of a sheer
precipice 300 ft. in height, and is in
form of horseshoe shape, although
some antiquaries incline to the belief
that it was originally oval, and that
it acquired its present form from the
falling of the precipices. It consists
of 3 enclosures, the wall wliich
surrounds the innermost being the
thickest: this enclosure measures
150 ft. from N. to S. Outside the
second wall is the usual accompani-
ment of chevaux-de-frises, formed
by sharp stones placed on end,
seemingly to hinder the approach of
an enemy. About the 1st cent, of
the Christian era, 3 brothers, Mor
gus, Conchovar, and Mil, came from
Scotland to Aran, and their names
are still preserved in connection
with buildings on the island — " tlie
ancient fort on the great island,
being called Dun -/Engus ; the great
fort of the middle island, superior in
strength and preservation " to the
former, bearing the name of Dun
Connor or Conchovar ; and the name
of Mil being associated with the low
strand of Port Murvey, formerly
known as Muirveagh Mil, or the
Sea-plain of Mil." — Haverty.
5^ m. Dun Onaght or Eoghanacht,
on high ground to the 1., is a circular
Firbolgic fort measuring 92 ft. across.
Like all the other duns in the island,
the defences are maintained by 3
walls one inside the other. " Upon
the inner side are 4 sets of steps
leading towards the top, like those
in Staigue Fort in the county of
Kerry."
At the north-western extremity,
6 m. from Kilronan, is another in-
teresting archaeological group, con-
sisting of the 7 churches, or at least
what remains of them. There are only-
portions of a ch. known as TeampuU
a Phoill, or the ch. of the Hollow, and
TeampuU Brecain, the ch. of St. Bre-
cain, who was the founder of the
episcopal ch. of Ardbraccan, in the
county of Meath, tfnd grandson of the
Ist Christian Prince of Thomond.
At the opening of the grave by
Dr. Petrie many years ago, a skull
was found supposed to belong to
the saint. Tlie ch. has a chancel
of rude masonry, and a more modem
choir, with a lancet E. window.
Traces of a monastic building, an
engraved cross, and an inscribed
Ireland.
JRoute 20. — Aran Islands,
173
stone were found by Mr. Wilde, who
also discovered and put together a
richly-sculptured cross in the neigh-
bouring Aharla, or sacred enclosure.
Overlooking the beach are the ruins
of a strong square castle, known
as Sean Caislean, the Old Castle.
The geological formation of the whole
island is that of carboniferous lime-
stone, which presents much bold
and grand sea fronts. " The soile is
almost paved over with stones, soe
as in some places nothing is to be
scene but large stones witti wide
openings between them, where cattle
breake their legs." — O'FlaJierty. At
the beach of Glenaghaurit near the
7 churches, the strate are horizontal,
singularly broken up by vertical
fissures. Owing to the difficulty of
walking on the huge limestone flags
" the Aranites have adopted sandals,
or pampooties, as they call them, of
a very primitive kind. Ihese, which
pM the children are taught to make
at the age of 7, are formed of cowhide
with the hair left on, cut away low
at the sides, with only a little pointed
piece in front, just sufficient to cover
the ends of the toes." — Arch. Camhr.
Traces of the drift are frequent in
the shape of granitic boulders
brought over from the high grounds
of Connemara. There is a very con-
spicuous example near the ruins of
Sean Caislean.
The middle island of Aran, or
Inishmaany is separated from the
former by a strait about 1 m. aqyoss,
known as Gregory's Sound. The
principal archsBological feature is
Dun Cmmort or Conchobhair, an oval
fort on a steep cliff, surrounded
by an external wall with a gate-
way, placed in a square fort. Close
by is the ruined church of Team-
pull-saght-macree. Between 1 and 2
m. to the S. of Inishmaan, separated
by the Foul Sound, is Inisheer, which
contains a circular dun called Creg-
gankeel; Furmina Castle, once a
stronghold of the Clann Teige ; and
St. Gobnet's ruined ch. The popu-
lation of the 3 Aran islands is up-
wards of 3000 souls, principally sup-
ported by fishing, although the
pasturage, like on most limestone
rocks, is of a very rich and sweet-
flavoured description. The owners
of the soil are the Misses Digby, who
have done very much to ameliorate
the condition of the people.
In 1857 the islands were visited
by a detachment of the British As-
sociation, under the leadership of Sir
W. Wilde, and the results of the
visit were subsequently embodied in
an interesting pamphlet, to which
the writer of this notice is in-
debted.]
[A delightful excursion may be
taken up the Lough Corrib to
Cong, 27 m. A small steamer
plies daily, and the , time oc-
cupied in the journey is about
4 hrs. The river, whicii &t tlie
starting-point above the laridges is
tolerably wide, soon narrows, and
receives on rt., opposite the Distillery
of Newcastle, an affluent known as
Terryland river. Close by are the
slight ruins of Terryland, or Tirra-
leen Castle, a residence of the De
Burgos in the 13th cent. 2 m. rt.
is Menlough, or Menlo Castle (Sir
Thos. Blake\ an ivy-covered castel-
lated mansion, very prettily situated
on the bank of the river. About
1 m. distant from the village of Men-
lough, and close on the brink of the
lake, are the marble-quarries of An-
aliham, which yield a very cele-
brated quality of stone.. The marble
is jet black, and susceptible of "high
polish. ** It has been raised in solid
blocks, often weighing upwards of
4 tons, and measuring from 18 to
20 ft. long," and the quarries ai-e
situated on the edge of that extra-
ordinary plateau of the upper carbo-
niferous limestone which surrounds
Galway on the N. and E. sides.
From Menlough to the entrance
of the lake the river narrows con-
siderably, having on each side of it
fiat sedgy islands, the haunts of
174
Boute 20. — GcHway to Clifd^n,
Ireland.
wild fowl. Tho other passages
are scarcely navigable. After a
course of about 4 m. the steamer
enters Lough Corrih (anc. Lough
Oirbse), one of the most exten-
sive and peculiar of these fresh-
water seas for which Ireland is so
remarkable. The length of the
lake to Cong is about 20 m., and
the greatest breadth 6 m., not in-
cluding, however, the arm that
runs up to Maume. It possesses
50 m. of shores, and occupies 30,000
Irish acres, with a considerable fall
from the summit level to the sea,
and a surface of 13 ft. 9 in. above
high water. A survey was made
by the Government with a view
towards establishing a grand inland
navigation from Galway, Lough
Corrib, Lqugh Mask, and Lough
Conn to Killala, and thereby saving
the inconvenience and dangers of
the coast route. The lake was
deepened in some parts, and lofty
piles of stones erected so as to mark
the channel, but with the exception
of these improvements, and the
canal to connect the lake with the
sea at Gralway, the scheme became
abortive — the navip^ation at present
being limited to tlie steamer, and a
few big barges which sail with the
wind from Cong, carrying kelp, sand,
&c. The direction in which Lough
Corrib runs is N.W., and it is divided
into 2 parts by a long narrow strait.
Of these the northern is the largest,
although, from the number of islands
scattered about, it does not apparently
present such a large expanse of
water. Altogether, the islands are
said to number 365, one for eveiy
day ia the year, but the tourist will
soon find out that this is a popular
delusion applied to almost every lake
and bay in the country. The depth
is very variable, in some places
upwards of 28 ft., although in winter
this is always increased somewhat;
while in other parts it is scarcely
3 ft. ; long shoals of jagged rocks
frequently appearing above the water.
On first emerging into the lake
the traveller obtains directly ahead
of him and to the N.W. a very lovely
view of the Connaught hills, espe-
cially those in the neighbourhood
of Maume. The shore on the rt. is
fiat and uninteresting, but on the 1.
is a continuous and gradually in-
creasing chain of high ground, on tho
side of which the road to Oughte-
rarde is carried, lined with pleasant
woods and residences, amongst which
is conspicuous a nunnery for the
Sisters of Mercy, established by
Father Daly.
A little to the N.E. is the isolated
hill of Knocknaa, near Tuam, which,
as the channel changes, shifts its
position so much that the tourist is
puzzled how to maintain his bear-
ings. Numerous towers of castles or
ruined churches stud the banks of
the lake, the greater part of which
will be found under their respective
routes, as they are unable to be
visited except by land. In the dis-
tance on the rt., about 1 m. up, are
the towers of Clare-Galway castle
and abbey (Rte. 21), while 1. nearer
the lake is the castle of Moycullen,
otherwise called Hag's Castle, or
Cuishla dda Cuilach. In about
4 m. the lake contracts, and the
steamer enters the long and tortuous
channel of Knock. On rt., close to the
shore, are the ruins of Annaghdowu
Castle and ch., formerly the seat of
the bishopric in which Galway was
included ; also the woods of Annagh-
dowu House ( — Blake, Esq.), and
Woodpark House).
Half way up the strait is the ferry
of Kilbeg or Knock, at which a pier
has been erected for the convenience
of the traffic to Headford, 3 m.
distant (Rte. 21). Close by the land-
ing-place are Clydagh House, the
beautifully-wooded seat of F. Staun-
ton liynch, Esq., and the ruins of
Cargen's Castle. A little farther
on is Anaghkeen Castle', and nearly
opposite on the other bank the
tower of Augh-na-nure CastU, the
Ireland,
Boute 20. — Inch-a-goiE.
175
old residence ot the O'Flaherties
close to Oughterarde. The lake now
expands again, and presents some
beautiful views towards Maume ; the
mountains being grouped together
in a very peculiar manner. The big
flat-topped hill is Benlavie, while
the sharp escarpment to the rt. is that
of Kilbride, which overhangs Lough
Mask. The islands which form such
an important item in the surface of
this portion of the lake occupy about
1000 acres, 6 of them being in-
habited. The steamei; passes on the
1. an island graced by a summer
residence belonging to the Rev. J.
D'Arcy, warden of Gal way.
The island of Inch-d-goill, or Inis-
an-Ghoill Craibhthigh, " the island
of the devout foreigner," should be
visited by the antiquary for the sake
of its interesting ecclesiastical ruins,
and for this purpose a boat will have
to be taken from Cong, distant about
3^ m., as the steamer does not stop
at the island. It contains the ruins
of the small ch.* of Templepatrick,
considered to be of the age of, and
indeed founded by, St. Patrick. It
possesses a nave and chancel, although
its total length is only 35J ft. The
doorway is of the simplest descrip-
tion, with inclined sides. A stone
.stands in the ch. on which is inscribed,
according to Dr. Petrie —
LIB LUGNAEDON HACG LMEKUI'IH ;
in English, "the stone of Lugnae-
don, son of Limeneneh."
The individual commemorated by
this stone is supposed to have been
a nephew of St. Patrick. Tlie second
ch., also ruined, is of much later
date, of similar form and dimensions,
though of more beautiful architecture.
Almost opposite Inch-a-goill, on the
eastern bank of the lake, is Bally-
curin Castle and House (C. Lynch,
Esq.). A little distance from this
shore is the island of Inishmicaireer^
on which an abbey formerly existed.
At the N.W. comer of the lake a
narrow prolongation runs for some
distance inland between the moun-
tains terminating at Maume.
25 m. at the head of the lake are
the pretty woods of Ashford (H.
Guinness, Esq.), and the village of
Cong (p. 182).]
A car leaves daily for Oughterarde
and Clifden from Bianconi's coach-
office in Eyre Square. Passing over
the river and canal and by the Queen's
College, the traveller enters tlie dis-
trict of lar Connaught or Western
Connaught, the head-quarters of the
powerful clan of the O'Flaherties.
This district extends for about 30 m.,
and is now comprised in the baronies
of MoycuUen and Ballynahinch. For
several miles the road skirts the high
grounds on the W. bank of Lough
Corrib, passing many pretty wood-
embowered villas, and amongst others
a nunnery for Sisters of Mercy. Fine
views are obtained of the hills at the
head of the Lough, amongst which,
on a clear day, the peak of Nephin,
near Ballina, is very conspicuous.
Far in the distance on the E. is
Knocknaa, the Hill of the Fairies, in
the direction of Tuam.
4f m. 1. Woodstock House (F.
Comyn, Esq.), well sheltered amidst
thriving plantations ; and further on
is Kirkullen House (Oapt. Hare.)
6| m. rt. is the small lake of Bally-
cuirhe, beyond which is the lonely
tower of Hag's Castle^ or Cuislila-
dda-Cuilach, a fortress of the O'Fla-
herties, who possessed nearly the
whole of this territory.
In the time of Elizabeth the father
of the then O'Flaherty was confined
in this castle of Moycullen, and
starved to death. 7J m. Moycullen is
a neat village with the usual pa-
rochial institutions. The land in the
immediate neighbourhood was the
property of the late Lord Campbell,
who did much towards its improve-
ment ; but very shortly the tourist
enters upon the domain of Ballyna-
hinch. A road on rt. runs up the
side of the lake to 6^ m. Knock
Ferry, en route for Headford (p. ISlj,
176
Movie 20. — Gcdway to Clifden.
Ireland.
while one on the 1. crosses the deso-
late hills to 8 J m. Spiddle (p. 170).
8 m. 1. Danesfield House (G. Burke,
Esq.) ; and bordering the road a little
further on are Drimcong, Deerfield,
and Knockbane, the residence of A.
0*Flaherty, Esq. 9 m. on rt. below
the road is Boss Lake, a long, narrow
sheet of water, studded with prettily-
wooded islets and patclies of rock.
Boss Home, situated at the head of
the lake, is the residence of Jas.
Martin, Esq., whose family has been
seated here since the time of Eliz.
There are several ruins in the vici-
nity— as Oghery Castle on a small
island and a ch. on the opposite
side known as Templebegnaneeve.
At this point of the route the travel-
ler enters the widely-spread domain
of Ballynahinch (p. 179), through
which he journeys for a distance of
26 m. The Law Life Insurance Com-
pany now hold this territory of the
old Martin femily, a territory so wild
and extensive that it was the boast
of Connauglit that " the king's writ
could not run in it." The traveller
will, however, observe for himself
during his journey that -j^ of this
property might well be spared, as
regards its agricultural qualities.
From hence the country begins to
lose a gre&t deal of the wood and
timber which has hitherto sheltered it,
and relieved it from its native wild-
ness, which very soon begins to show
itself in the wide melancholy moors
between this a,nd Oughterarde. On
the 1. they gradually rise to a con-
siderable height, the highest point,
Knockalee Hill, being 955 ft. Innu-
merable little streams, emerging from
as many small lakes permeate their
brown moors fn every direction, the
only signs of civilization being the
long straight road that is visible for
miles, and an occasional group of
cottages on the hill-sides, of such a
dubious colour that it is some time
ere the eye becomes accustomed to
the sight of tliem. Just after passing
the lodge-gate of Ross the first
beautiful peep occurs of the 12 Pins
of Connemara, the highest points in
the Western Highlands.
15 m. rt., near a spot where a
stream is crossed by a natural bridge
of limestone, are the ruins of Augh-
nanure Castle (the Field of me
Yews), called otherwise the Castle
of the O'Flaherties. The remains
consist of a massive square tower
surrounded by outworks and a
banqueting-hall, the date of the
whole being probably of the 16th
cent. Notice in the latter the in-
terlacing patterns of the windows.
A small river washes the walls
of the castle, which also commands
a strong position over Lough Corrib.
The O'Flaherties, to whom it be-
longed, were a powerful family who
had held this country from time
immemorial, and long struggled
against the English Government,
witii which it was always at variance,
as also with its neighbours the Gal-
way colonists. In the reign of Eli-
zabeth, however, government re-
duced it to obedience by fomenting
discord amongst its members, and in
1569 Morough O Flahertie was ap-
pointed governor of the county of
lar Connaught. The glories of
the fiimily establishment are enu-
merated in an ancient MS., as main-
taining a physician, standard-bearer,
brehon or judge, the keeper of the
black bell, the master of the revels,
the keeper of the bees, &c. The
present representative is G. F. O'Fla-
hertie, Esq., the owner of the neigh-
bouring demesne of Lemonfield.
16 J m. Oughterarde, a straggling
little town of a single broad street,
situated picturesquely enough on the
river Owenriff, which flows in a
somewhat romantic channel into
Lough Corrib. With the exception
of its enormous Union House, it does
not contain anything worth notice,
but its proximity to the lake renders
it a convenient station for fisliing
parties (J?o<e2,Murphy's). About J m.
outside the town is an extremely
Ireland. Boute 20. — Lake and Mountain Scenei-y.
Ill
pretty wateifall, in the bed of which,
when the water is low, the geologist
can see a good section of the car-
boniferous limestone.
Distances, — Gralway, 16J m. ; Re-
cess, 18 ; Maume, 12 ; Lough Bofiu,
5J ; Flynns, 12.
[A road on rt. runs from Oughte-
rarde along tlie side of Lough Oor-
rib, passing 1 or 2 little hamlets, and
skirting the base of Carn Seefin
(1009 ft.)» on the sides of which a
copper-mine was established. At
Oappanalaura, opposite the beau-
tifully-wooded hill of Doon, a boat
may be obtained, and the pedestrian
may cross the arm of the lake, and
follow the road on the N. bank to
Maume.]
For almost the whole distance to
Clifden the ^oad is carried over a
bleak moor, the geological character
of which is "Vnica rock, occasionally
passing into talcose rock.
At 20 m. 1. is Lough Agraffard,
the first of the chain of lakes that
accompany the road the whole way
to the coast. It is succeeded by
Lough Adrehid, and at 22 J m. by
Lough Bofin, one of the largest of
the whole chain. The scenery is pe-
culiar, and, unless under a bright
sun, depressing from the monotonous
outline of the hills and the sombre
colour of the peat and lake water.
There i* a solitary school-house at
Glengoula. 25 m. Ardderry Lough,
communicating with 27 m. Lough
Shindilla, is one of the prettiest be-
cause the most wooded of the series.
£A little before arriving at the E. end
of this lake, which is the watershed of
the rivers running into Lough CJorrib
and the Atlantic, a road on rt., at
Butler's Lodge, turns over the moors
to Maume (Rte. 21) 5 m., which
speedily becomes interesting as it
descends, from the views that
open, over the arm of Lough Oorrib
and the island of Castlekirke.] The
mountains on the rt. have now
assumed a very different outline and
character from those whicli have
hitherto accompanied us. In fact,
we have arrived at the great group
of the Western Highlands, of which
Buunabeola, or the 12 Pin?, is the
centre ; and the traveller now loses
all sense of dreariness in the contem-
plation of the magnificent and rugged
heights that constantly open out
The eastern portion of this range
is mostly known as the Mamturk
Mountains, and comprises, amongst
others, the heights of ShanfolagU
(2003 ft.) and Leckavrea (2012).
Polypodium dryopteris grows abun-
dantly on these hills. At the end
of Lough Shindilla is a small she-
been-house, known as the Half-
way House or Flynn's, where there
is a change of horses. Miss Flynn,
the daughter of a former occupant,
was celebrated for her beauty, the
praises of which were chanted re-
peatedly in the works of Inglia
Barrow, and others. The family,
however, have long left the neigh-
bourhood. This is the highest point
of the road, as is soon evident from
the change of direction of the water's
flow. [From hence a road runs direct
to Kylemore 14 m., and it should be
taken by the traveller who does not
wish to go round by Clifden.]
Above 29^ m. 1. Lough Ourid, rises
the Ourid Hill, 1174 ft. From hence
the road rapidly descends by the side
of a moimtein stream to 34 J m. Eecess
Inn, a comfortable and unpretending
little hotel standing back from the
road at the foot of Lissoughter, and
an admirable station for investi-
gating the beauties of Glen Inagh
and the 12 Pins. Garromin, one of
the most beautiful of these lakes,
stretches before it, having on its
opposite bank Glendalough, the
thickly-wooded domain rented by
the Duke of Richmond from the
Law Life Insurance Company, but
at present inhabited only by a care-
taker. On an eminence opposite the
hotel is Lissoughter Lodge (J. Bod-
kin, Esq.). The tourist should by
I 3
178
Boute 20. — Crolicay to Cllfden.
Ireland.
all means ascend Lissoughter, which,
tliough reaching the height of only
1314 ft., is so placed as to afford a
better knowledge of the mountain
scenery tlian almost any other hill.
It is situated exactly at the end of a
great transverse valley, of which it
forms the key, the sides respectively
being tiie Mamturk Mountains (Slian-
folagh, &c.), and the 12 Pins, which
are seen to great advantage. This
valley is almost entirely filled up by
the lakes of Dtrryclaie and Lough
Ina^h, producing a magnificent scene
seldom surpassed, although, from the
lack of wood, invested with a severity
peculiar to the Connemara scenery.
On the side of tlie hill are marble-
quarries, from which a valuable stone
Known as Connemara marble is ex-
tracted, and worked for the most
part into ornamental articles. A
road turns off near the Recess, which
was commenced in the famine year,
and intended to run the whole length
of Glen Inagh to join the Kylemore
road, but, like many other under-
takings of that sad era, was never
finished.
Derryclare, the first lake, com-
municates with Glendalough by a
short stream called Bealnacarra, and
also with Ballyuahinch Lake by
another. It is narrow, about 2J m.
long, and magnificently situated just
at the foot of the 12 Pins. A little
above it is Lough Inagh^ even more
beautiful, because occupying more
fully the length of the valley for
3 m. The whole of the E. side is
bounded by the lofty mountains of
the Mamturk range, the most con-
spicuous points of which are, com-
mencing from the S., Shanfolagh
(2003 ft.), Maumeen (2076), Knock-
na-hillion (1993), and Letter-brec-
kaun (2193). In this valley are 2
oases of cultivation, Derryclare (Mr.
Cunningham) and Coolnacarton, the
demesne of Mr. Joyce.
Proceeding along th'e high road,
the attention is altogether taken up
by the 12 PtTw— " bare, but glittering
with the aerial brilliancy peculiar
to their formation, their peaked
summits rush togetlier in elevations
of from 2000 to 2500 ft:, a splendid
cloud-pointing assemblage. Conne-
mara proper, though a mountainous,
is not an upland country ; the plaiu
from which its greatest elevations
rise is little more on an average than
100 ft above the level of the Atlan-
tic ; so that its masses lose not a
tittle of their real altitude, but, lifting
themselves to their full height at
a stretch, look over the plains with
much greater majesty than many-
other mountains higher by 1000 ft.
Benlettery and Derryclare stand
foremost like an advanced guard to
the group on the S., while in front,
fiank, and rear, open 4 principal
glens, each one with his torrent, and
3 of them with their proper lakes ;
Glencoaghan, with the lower lake of
Ballyuahinch, looks southward on
Roundstone and Birterbury; Glen
Inagh, cradling its black waters
under the tremendous precipice of
Mamturk, down which the stream
tliatfeeds Lough Inagh falls 1200 ft.
and opens the gorge of its prison
upon the E. ; Kylemore yawns N.
and W. on Renvyie ; and on the W.
and S. the ravine whose torrent
waters Clifden looks over the At-
lantic."— Bartlett.
Bunnabeola, "the 12 most beau-
tiful bens or Pins," the termination
" la " signifying a superlative degree,
is a grand irregular mass of slaty
quartzite rocks, the peculiarity being
not so much in the height as in the
number of isolated points so nearly
converging. The highest point,
though not quite in the centre of
the others, is Benbaun (2395 ft.), sur-
rounded by Derryclare (2220), Ben-
lettery (1904), Bengower (2184), Ben-
breen (2276), Bencollaghduff (2290).
BencoiT (2336), Bencorrbeg (1908),
Muckanaght (2153), Benglenisky
(2710), Benbrach (1922), and a small
supplementary summit known as the
Key of the Pins. The beauty of their
Ireland.
BotUe 20. — Bcdlynahinch,
1?9
scarred and precipitous sides is still
further enhanced by the colouring
imparted to them n-om the various
heaths and lichens. The tourist
who wishes for a magnificent view
cannot do better than ascend Ben-
lettery (1904 ft), which, though
not quite so high as some of the
othei-s, is less surrounded by rival
eminences. Tlie view embraces
Urrisbeg, Roundstone, and Birter-
bury Bays in the S., backed up in
the distance by Gal way Bay, while
Cashel and Lettershanna mountains
serve as a foreground; westward is
Clifden and the wliole country from
Urrisbeg to Ardbear, Ballynakill
Bay, the hill of Renvyle, with the
islands of Bofin, Inishark, and many
others; while further N. the sharp
crags of Achill Head open out. E.
are the ranges of tlie Mamturk
Mountains, with the melancholy pass
of Maumeen. The botanist will find
among the sides of the 12 Pins a
rich harvest : Arbutus uva-ursi, Ly-
copodium selago, Empetrum nigrum,
Alchemilla alpina, Saxifraga um-
brosa. Erica daboecia, S. opposiio-
foUa, &c.
The road to Clifden crosses the
Bealnacarra river, giving off on 1., a
by-road, which runs down to the sea
at Birterbury Bay over a dreary moor-
land. The pedestrian who wishes to
ascend either Cashel ( 1024 ft.) or Let-
tershanna should follow this road,
but, if on his way to Roundstone,
should careftdly avoid it and keep
straight on to
40 m. Ballyndhinch^ which stands
a little off from and on the S. side
of the lake of the same name.
[At Canal Bridge a road on 1.
loa(ls to the house, and on to Derra-
dia and Roundstone. The lake is
irregular and picturesque, and con-
tains in its western portion some
wooded islands, on one of which
stands the ancient castle, with only
the keep, a square tower, remain-
ing. The house, which was cele-
brated for being the residence of
the Martins, who " reigned " for so
many generations over this county,
is a plain embattled building,
pleasantiy situated between the
lake and the river. It is now the
residence of Mr. Robinson, agent
to the Law Life Insurance Com-
pany, who purchased the whole of
this vast domain for 180,0002. when
it came into the market. From all
accounts, however, it would seem
that the district has not derived that
benefit which might be expected
from such an undertaking. "Col.
Martin, the representative of tho
family some 50 years ago, is said
to have endeavoure<l to put the
Prince Regent out of conceit with
the famous Long Walk of Windsor,
by saying that the avenue which
led to his hall-door was 30 m. in
length. The pleasantry was true to
this extent, that the greater part of
the distance of 40 m. from Galway
to Ballynahinch lay within the Martin
estates, while the road from the one
to tbe other stopped short of the
mansion, beyond which there was
little else but rugged paths." It
was on the fortunes of this amiable
though ill-fated family that Lever
has foimded his novel of the * Mar-
tins of Cro' Martin.' From Bally-
nahinch, where there is an inn, the
road follows the 1. bank of the Owen-
more, a very pretty stream, and,
what is more, an admirable sporting
river, to 2 m. Deraddia, a fishing
station, where there is also a comfort-
able little hotel kept by a Scotchman
named Robertson, who is engaged in
working the salmon fishery to a
large extent, and sending the pre-
served contents to market. For this
purpose he rents the fishery, paying
5^d. per lb. for all fish caught until
June, and after that time 22. per lb.
The fish are cured here and packed
in tin boxes. The river is crossed
by a bridge of 3 arches at this point,
to which the tide comes up. About
200 yds. from hence on the 1. bank
of the river are very slight remains
180
Route 21. — Galvoay to Weatpwt,
Ireland.
of the abbey of Toombeola, of which
nothing but a couple of gable walls
and a doorway are left. A Domini-
can priory was founded here in 1427
by O'Flaherty, but was demolished
in the reign of Elizabeth, and
partly carried away to build some
other castle.
About 2 m. fiirttier on is the
little seaport of Boundstone {Hotels
Kelly's), that at one time was
destined to fulfil a great purpose,
no less than to be the starting-point
from Ireland to America. For this
end a good road was made to it, and
a convenient pier built by Nimmo
the engineer, who saw in the beau-
tiful and capacious bay capabilities
of no common order. But the course
of events at Gal way will most likely
preclude the chance of Roundstone
ever emerging from its obscurity.
It is, however, a pleasant little
place, and for fine coast-scenery, and
bay studded with islands, few can
compare with it. There is a mo-
nastery for brothers of the order of
St. Francis, also a coast-guard station
in the island of Inishlackan, and the
remains of churches in Croaghna-
keela Island some 6 m. out, formerly
a deer-park belonging to the Martins.
About 2 m. further are more ch.
ruins on St. Macdara's Island and
Mtison Island, the former consisting
of a very primitive ch. only 15 ft. in
length, and formerly possessing a
high stone roof. The circular stone
dwelling of the saint is adjoining,
though greatly dilapidated. On the
tongue of land adjoining is Ard
CastUy a single tower with a staircase
and interior passage at the top.
Immediately behind Roimdstone
rises Urrisbeg (987 ft.), which from
its comparative isolation commands
a remajkable view well worth the
ascent. A remarkable trap-dyke
runs from the summit to tlie sea.
The botanist will find it to his
account to make an excursion to
Urrisbeg, if only to obtain a specimen
of the Erica Mediterrauea, a heath
peculiar to Connemara, which grows
luxuriantly for a space of 3 acres on.
the western declivity. It flowers in
March and April. Another rare
fern. Erica Mackaiana, grows on " a
declivity of a hill by the road-side
within 3 m. of Roundstone." From
this spot a road follows the coast in
a roundabout course to Clifden, and
there is also a direct hilly road
11 m.] The former passes by Doo-
hulla, where there is a lo<lge for
anglers. A successful experiment
1ms been carried on here by J.
Knight Boswell, Esq., of stocking
the river by means of artificial pro-
pap:ation.
From Ballynahinch the way lies
under the 12 Pins and their outliers
to 47 m. the romantic little town of
Clifden (Rte. 22). Hotels: Hart's;
Carr's ; Mullarky's, a new hotel, ia
said to be good.
ROUTE 21.
FBOM GALWAY TO BALLINROBE AND
WESTPORT.
For the first 2 or 3 m. the road tra-
verses a particularly desolate-looking
district, which looks as if it was paved
with stones— a huge table-land of
carboniferous limestone, part of the
same tract that strikes the tourist in
his journey from Athenry by rail.
i m. rt. is Killeen House (P.
Ireland. Bouie 21. — Clare-Gcdway — Boss Abbey.
181
Comyn, Esq.), in the grounds of
which is the ruined tower of the same
name. Border towers are very nume-
rous over the whole of the W. of
Galway and Mayo, and sti'ongly un-
Eress upon us the insecure tenure of
fe and land in those days of hard
hitting. Eiltullagh Castle is just
such another tower about f m. to the
rt., and there is a third on the 1.
near Rocklawn.
Adjoining Eilleen is Kockwood.
From hence, passing some pri-
mitive mud-coloured Irish villages,
worth notice from the extraordinary
manner in which they are built and
huddled together without any ap-
parent plan, we arrive at
7 m. Clare-GoLway, a small village
on the Clare-Gralway river, possess-
ing a picturesque castle and a very
b^utiful abbey, erected in the 13th
cent, for Franciscan friars by John De
Cogan. It is a cruciform ch., con-
sisting of nave, choir, and transepts,
surmounted by a graceful tower of
8 stages, lighted by a small square
window in each stage, though
there is a Dec. window looking
towards the E. The intersecting
arches underneath the tower are
very beautiful, 6is is the mutilated
E. window of the choir, which is
also lighted by 6 plain lancets
on each side. It contains a Dec.
altar-tomb of the date 1648. The
nave has only S. wall standing,
lighted by plain pointed windows,
and having underneath 2 blocked
arches, which probably served for
altar-tombs. Of the N. wall there
only remain 4 noble arches spring-
ing from rounded piers. A portion
of the abbey is devoted to the use of
a trumpery-looMng little chapel. The
castle, close to the road, is a mas-
sive square tower, Hghted by a few
loopholes, and is a good example of
the better class of fortified mansions.
It was erected by the fSamily of De
Burgo, and was garrisoned by the
Marquis of Clanricarde in the war of
1641. 8 m. at Laghtgeorge a road
diverges on rt. to Tuam. Crossing
the Waterdale stream, on the banks
of which lower down is another
ruined tower (Liscananaun), we reach
Gregg Castle, the wooded seat of
Fi Blake, Esq., formerly the resi-
dence of Kirwan, the chemist and
philosopher, and the birthplace of
his brother Dean Kirwan, equally
celebrated as a theologian. A pretty
river scene opens out as the road
winds round the park and crosses
the Cregg near some mills.
[4 m. 1., overlooking the low shores
of Lough Corrib, are the ruined
castie and ch. of AnnagJidovm, which,
though now desolate and neglected,
was, as Enachdone, a celebrated
ecclesiastical establishment (p. 167),
being the seat of a bishopric, and
containing a nunnery, an abbey, a
monastery for Franciscans, and the
college of St. Brendan.]
A httie beyond Cregg is the
Currabeg monastery. 18J m. 1. are
small remains of Cloghanower Castie,
and very soon the extensive woods
and park of Headford Ceistle come
in sight. The house is a fine
old Mizabethan building, and the
residence of C. St. George, Esq.,
to whom as resident landlord tiie
town and neighbourhood of Head-
ford are greatly indebted.
20 m. Headford {Inns : Headford ;
Eedington's), a neat Httie town,
sheltered by the woods of the castie,
and placed in a rather English-
looking coimtry. Although there is
nothing in the town of interest, yet
the tourist should by all means pay
a visit to Boss Abbey, about IJ m.
distant, one of the most extensive
and beautiful buildings in Ireland,
built at the close of the 15th cent,
by Lord Granard for Observantine
Franciscans, and granted to the Earl
of Clanricarde at the suppression of
religious houses. Including the re-
ligious and domestic buildings, it
covers a very, large space of ground
on the banks of the Black river, and
overlooking a considemble tract of
182
JRoute 21. — Oalway to Westport,
Ireland.
bog. It is the cemetery of many good
Con naught &mUies, and probably
contains more grinning and ghastly
skulls than any catacomb, some of
the tracery of the windows being
filled up with thigh-bones and
heads — a not uncommon way of dis-
posing of these emblems of mortality
in Iriah abbeys. The ch. has a nave,
choir, and S. transept, with a slender
and graceful tower arising from
the intersection. Attached to the
nave are N. and S. aisles, and a
chapel running parallel with the
S. transept. The latter, together
with the S. aisle, are separated from
the nave by round-headed arches
with octangular piers. Two round
arches also divide the transept from
the aisle, and 2 blocked ones from a
chapel on the E. In the W. chapel
of the S. aisle is a small monument
of the ODonnells, 1646. The nave
is shut off from the choir by a broad-
headed segmental arch. The latter
part of the ch. is hghted on S. by 4
double-light trefoil windows ; and on
the S. side of the altar is a double-
arched niche used as an ambrv. The
E. window is Dec^ with very delicate
tracery, and is worth notice, as is
also the moulding of the W. door,
close to which is the stoup for holy
water. To the N. of the nave are
the cloisters, which are in good pre-
servation. The area is small, and
surrounded by 10 beautiful pointed
arches about 3 ft. high, the entrance
of the passage within being under
round-headed arches.
" By pointed aisle and shafted stalk.
The arcades of an alley'd walk.
To emulate in stone."
From the N. of the choir runs a
long chapel lighted by E. Eng. win-
dows, those on the N. side having
ogee heads. A projecting building
also on the N. of the choir was pro-
bably the abbot's residence, and
beyond the N. transept is the kitchen,
with ample fireplace and spout for
carrying the water away; also a
stone reservoir and pipe connecting
it with the Hver, probably used as »
fish vivarium. On the E. of the
kitchen is the guesten-hall, in which
there is an aperture communicating
with the kitchen for the entrance of
the viands. Probably tliere is no
ruin in the kingdom showing the do-
mestic arrangements to greater ad-
vantage tlian Ross, which on this
account deserves to be attentively
studied. The abbey is now the pro-
perty of Mr. St George, of Headford
Castle.
Conveyances. — Car to Galway and
Westport ; car to Tuam.
Distances.— Gelway, 20 m. ; Ballin-
robe, 14; Tuam, 12^; Shniel, 4;
Cong, 10 ; Ross Abbey, 1 J ; Knock
Ferry, 3^ ; Clydagh, 4.
[A very interesting detour may be
made tlirough Cong to IMaume, and
so on to Leenane or CUfden. IJ m.
rt, on the banks of the Black river,
is Moyne Lodge (P. Ward, Esq.).
In the grounds is Moyne Castle,
a square tower, in the interior of
which is a spiral staircase leading to
a covered passage nmning round the
building, and lighted by loopholes.
On the high ground to the N. is
Moyne ch. in ruins. The abbey
buildings of Ross have an extremely
beautiful effect when viewed from
this side of the river.
5 m. is Glencorrib, the seat of Col.
O. Higgins ; and a little further on is
Houndswood (E. Dawson, Esq.). The
road, as it traverses very high ground,
affords exquisite views of Lough
Corrib and Lough Mask, with the
giant ranges of the Maume mountains,
and Benlevy in the distance, while
more to the N. are Bohaim and the
Partry mountains. In fact, a great
portion of the wild Joyce's country
is before the eyes, as regards its ex-
ternal boundaries.
7 m. the Cross, whence a road
diverges to Ballinrobe. Garracloon
Lodge is the residence of Dr. Veitch.
On rt. is Ballymacgibbon House.
10 m. Cong {Hotel: Burke's) is
a quaint village situated in the
Ireland.
Bottte 21. — Cong.
183
middle of a district teeming with
natural curiosities, which in former
times would have heen considered as
bordering on the supernatural. Cong
is pleasantly situated on a rapid
stream, that emerges from Lough
Mask, and empties itself into Lough
Corrib, after a course of about 4 m.
The village is f m. from the landing-
pier on the latter lake, and near it
on 1. is Ashford House, the resi-
dence of H. Guiness, Esq., and on
rt Strandhill (Capt. Elwood). A
new house is also being- built by
Sir W. WUde at Gort-na-cuiTa, the
site of the ancient battle-field of
Moytura.
The principal archseological re-
mains are, 1. a stone cross in the
centre of the street, with a very
ancient Irish inscription in memory
of Filaberd and Nicol O'Dufly, who
were formerly abbots of Cong. 2. The
abbey is remarkable for its beautiful
Tran8.-Norm. architecture, though
as a whole it is not an imposing
or an extensive building. Roderic
O'Connor, the last native king
of L-eland, spent the remaining
15 years of has life here in the
strictest seclusion, dying in 1198,
aged 82. His tombstone is shown
by the guides, although, according to
some, he was buried at Clonmac-
noise. The visitor should notice the
beautiful moulding of the entrance
doorway, and also the W. front,
which presents internally a Norm,
blocked door with bead moidding,
and on the exterior, 3 doors also
blocked, one being plain round-
headed, and the others very rich
Trans, from Norm, to E. Eng. There
is a good 3-Ught window of remark-
able length, and others deeply
splayed and round-headed. The
charnel-house is called the Stranger's
Comer. Concerning this abbey Dr.
Petrie says, — " I have found no au-
thority to enable me to fix with pre-
cision the date of the re-erection of
this noble monastery, or ascertain
the name of its rebuilder; but the
characteristics of its style are such
as will leave no doubt of its being a
work of the close of the 12th cent.,
while its magnificence indicates with
no less certainty the pious bounty of
the unhappy Roderic, who, in his
later years, found refuge and, we may
hope, tranquillity within its clo'steretl
walls." Adjoining the abbey is a
neat villa, and part of the ancient
fishing-house on the bank of the
river, which runs swift and clear.
The abbey of Cong was noted for its
great riches and ornaments, of which
fortunately the cross of Cong (now in
the Royal Irish Academy) still re-
mains as an example of exquisite
chasing, showing to what a high
pitch decorative art had attained. It
is of pure gold, containing a large
crystal in the centre. An accoimt
of it will be found at p. 11. Having
examined tlie ruins, the visitor
should explore the natural curi-
osities of Cong, chiefly caused by
the vagaries of the river connecting
Lough Mask with Lough Corrib.
Although the distance is really 4 m.,
its apparent career is only f m.,
as the remainder is hidden imder-
ground with but few tokens of its
presence. The country to the N.
of Cong, as fer as Lough Mask,
is a series of limestone plateaus
of carboniferous, though, according
to some geologists, of Silurian age.
Whiche^r it may be, it is sin-
gularly perforated and undermined,
and an approach to its subterranean
beauties is permitted at the Pigeon
Hole, about 1 m. distant from the
village. In the centre of a field tliere
is a marked depression, having on
one side a perpendicular hole of
some 60 ft. deep, and of a diameter
barely that of the shaft of a coal-pit.
The aspect of this aperture, covered
as it is with ferns and dripping mosses,
is very peculiar, and it requires a
little resolution and a goocl deal of
care to descend the sUppery st^ps to
the bottom, where we find a con-
sidemble increase of room, in con-
184
Boute 21. — Ckdway to Westport.
Ireland.
sequence of the hollowing away of the
rocks. When the tourist's eyes get
fairly accustomed to the semi-darkness,
he will perhaps be fortunate enough
to detect in the river, which runs
babbling by him, the blessed wliite
trout which always frequent this
same spot, and to catch wliich was
an act of impiety too gross to be
committed. In addition to the guide,
he is accompanied down the hole
by a woman carrjdng a bundle of
straw, which she lights and allows
to float down the stream. As she
follows the windings of the cavern,
every now and then disappearing
behind the rocks, and then reappear-
ing, waving the fitful torch above her
head, the scene is at once mysterious
and picturesque. Nearer Cong there
are some more of these curious
caverns : one of them is called " the
Horse's Discovery," and contains
stalactites. It is close to the old ch.,
which suffered so much injury from
the depression of the ground, that a
new one was obliged to be built.
The tourist should engage the services
of a guide, who rejoices in the name
of AUck, and who has a legend for
every spot, and a reason for every-
thing. The river emerges for a few
hundred yards close to some mills,
where the water is plainly observed
to bubble up and immediately run off
in different directions, forming 2 sepa-
rate streams. The canal is the last,
and probably the greatest, curiosity,
as an example, not to be matohed
in this kingdom, of a gigantic
feilure. During the frightful starva-
tion crisis in Ireland, many him-
dreds were employed in this scheme,
which was to connect the 2 lakes,
and thus extend the inland naviga-
tion to Lough Conn and the Moy
river at BaJlina. As feur as the
relief given to the suffering peasants
it was very ^ood ; but by some mistake
in the engmeering calculations, the
canal was found, when finished, to
be utterly incapable of holding water,
&om the porous and permeated cha-
racter of the stone ; and to this day
it remains a huge useless blunder.
Conveyances. — Steamer daily to
Gal way.
Distances,. — Headford, 10 m. ;
Maume, 13^ ; BaUinrobe, 7 ; Lough
Mask Castle, 4. Galway by water, 27.'
From Cong the road to Maume con-
tinues along the N. shore of Lough
Corrib ; passing on rt 2 m. Bosshill,
a seat of the Earl of Leitrim, on the
banks of Lough Mask. In the
groundsare inconsiderable ruinsof the
ch. or abbey of Kosshill ; and adjoin-
ing is Benlevy Lodge (T. Blake,
Esq.). Directly in front of the tra-
veller the mountains rise with fine
abruptness ; on the rt Benlevy,
1286 ft. ; Bohaun and Loughnabricka,
1628 ; and to the 1. the ranges of the
Mamturk, in which Shanfolagh, 2003
ft., is most conspicuous. Towards
Lough Mask the precipitous hill of
Kilbride is seen. Benlevy mountain
is a very good landmark for this
district, in consequence of its pecu-
liar square truncated summit, on
which there is a clear lake. It is
worth ascending, as by going more
into the heart of the Joyce country
the views over the lakes are a good
deal shut out by the mountains im-
mediately around them. At 8 m. the
road crosses the Dooghta river, rising
in Loughnabricka, and skirts the
singular arm pushed by Lough Cor-
rib into the very heart of the monn-
tains. 21 m. 1., on an island, are the
conspicuous ruins of Castle Kirke,
otherwise called Caislean-na-Circe,
the Hen's Castle, of such extent as
to cover nearly the whole of the
island. According to a legend, very
widely spread in tliis district, it was
built m one night by a witeh and her
hen, which, together with the castle,
she gave to the O'Flaherty, telUng
him that, if he was besieged, the hen
would lay suflScient eggs to keep him
from starving. The event soon hap-
pened, but O'Flaherty, forgetting the
injunctions, slew the bird, and was
iiomediately starved out. ** Enough
Ireland.
Bovie 2 1 . — Shrule — Bcdlmrohe.
185
remains to exhibit its original plan,
which was that of an Anglo-Norm,
castle or keep, in the form of a
parallelogram, with 3 projecting
towers on its 2 longest sides; and
the architectural features of the 13th
cent, are also visible in some of its
beautifully executed windows and
doorways." — Irish Pen. Mag. It was
really erected by the sons of Roderic,
last king of Ireland, with the help
of Richard de Burgo.
23| m. Maume Bridge (Rte.22),
where the traveller will fijad a pleasant
little inn,* built, as well as the bridge,
by Nimmo the engineer, to whom Con-
nemara owes innumerable debts of
gratitude. The situation is enchant-
ing, at the base of tlie giant Lough-
nabricka, and right in front of Leck-
avrea and Shanvolagh ; while 2
streams,the Bealnabrack and the Fail-
more, take away from the sohtude and
tempt the fisherman. Two other
roads meet here— one from the Ough-
terarde and Olifden road 4J m. (Rte.
20), and one from Leenane, running
down the valley of the Joyce's river
(Rte. 22).
Distancets.— Cong, 13^ m.; Leenane,
8 J ; Halfway-house,' 6 J.]
Continuing on his course from
Headford, the traveller passes rt.
Lisdonagh House. Far in the dis-
tance is Knocknaa Hill near Tuam,
from its isolated position visible over
a very large extent of country.
24 m. Shrule, a small town situated
on the Black water, possessing the ruins
of an abbey, a massive-towered castle,
and the notoriety of as foul a massacre
as was ever perpetrated in Christen-
dom. In 1641 Sir Henry Bingham,
with a number of Protestant gentry
and 15 clergymen (among whom was
the Bishop of Killala), arrived at
Shrule from Castlebar (which he had
* The licence of the Maume Inn was taken
away by the magistrates in Oct. 1863, to
mark their sense of the insult offered by the
owner, the Earl of Leitrlm, to Royalty, in
tl»e person of the Lord Lieutenant, who was
most inhospitably prevented taking up his
night's quarters here as he intended.
been obliged to surrender from want
of provisions), under promise of safe
escort from Lord Mayo and the R. C.
Bishop of Tuam. Notwithstanding
this promise, they were handed over
at Simile Bridge to the keeping of a
relation of Lord Mayo, one Edmund
Burke, " a notorious rebel and bitter
papist, the man who not long before,
having taken the Bishop of KjUala
prisoner, wanted to fasten him to the
Sow (a battering engine), with which
he was attempting to beat down
the walls of Castlebar, in order that
the besieged in firing might shoot
their own prelate."— Otway. The un-
fortunate Protestants were attacked
by him in the most ferocious manner :
some were shot, others were piked,
others cast into the river ; in all 65
were slaughtered. There is a very
handsome R. C. chapel in Shrule.
In the neighbourhood of the town
is Dalgan House, the beautiful seat of
Baroness De Clifford. The Blackwater
in its course from Shrule to Thorpe
plays the same vagaries as the river
at Cong, and has an undergroimd
course for some little distance.
28^ m. Kilmaine.
34 m. Ballinrohe (anc. Baile-an-
rodhba) {Holds: Victoria; Ballin-
rohe), a town of some 3000 Inhab.,
in pleasant proximity to Lough
Mask and on the river Robe,
though in itself containing nothing
of interest, save small remains of an
abbey ch. and a fine R. C. chapel.
It is, however, a good point from
which to explore the beauties of
Lough Mask, a noble sheet of water,
10 m. long by 4 broad, with 2
arms about 1 m. distant from etich
other stretching into Joyce's Country,
the one extending for 4 m., the other
for 3, and havmg its waters 36 ffc.
above the summer level of Lough
Corrib. The eastern shore of tide
lough is comparatively tame, but the
W. is bounded by the fine, though
somewhat monotonous, range of the
Partry momitains, the highest points
of which are Toneysal, 1270 ft. ; and
1
186
Boute 21. — Galway to Westport,
Ireland.
Bohann, 1294. 4J m. from Ballin-
robe, on the shores of the lake, is
Lough Mask Castle, a solitary ruin
of no great extent, but in a fine
position. The island of Inishmaan,
close to the shore, contains a ruined
ch., orig^inally built by St. Cormac
in the 6th cent, and enlarged in the
12th. It has a good side doorway
of quadrangular form, in which the
weiglit of the lintel is taken off by
a semicircular arch.
The geologist will find on the
sliores of tliis lake Upper Silurian
strata, which are the equivalents of
the May Hill deposits, and their
passage upwards into Wenlock beds.
[6 m. 1. IS HollymounU a small town,
also on the Robe, containing a ch.
with a cast-iron spire, and (at no great
distance off) an Agricultural School.
Adjoining the town are Hollymount
Park (T. S. Lindsay, Esq.) and
Bloomfield (Col. Rutledge).] From
Ballinrobe the road gmaually ap-
proaches Lough Mask, and at Keel
Bridge crosses a narrow isthmus be-
tween it and Lough Carra, an irre-
gularly shaped lake, about 6 m. long,
tliough never more than 1 broad. On
the opposite bank of Lough Mask,
under the Slieve Partry Hills, is
Toormakeady, a seat of the Bi-
shop of Tuam. 42 m. at the head
of the lake is Partry, a village that
has attained an unenviable notoriety
from the number and frequency of
evictions unfortunately necessary or
considered to be so by the landlord
of the soil. Ijon-works were once
established here, but are no longer
worked. The road now diverges,
the direct and shortest route to
Westport being to the 1., but the
antiquary will find it to his ac-
count in taking the other route,
and thus visiting the ruins of BaUfn-
tohher Ahhey ^anc. Baile-an-Tobhair),
which, though little known, are very
beautiful, and well worth a purpose
expedition. Ctireful inquiries should
be made as to the direct locality, as
they lie on a by-road to Ballyglass,
and just opposite a -public-house
called ** Lyons." It is a large cruci-
form ch., with nave, transepts, and
choir, the latter still possessing its
roof. The visitor will be struck
with the immense height of the
gable ends and with the intersec-
tion (where the tower once stood),
which is marked by 4 splendid arches
springing from sculptured imposts.
The vaulted roof of the choir (which
is divided into 3 bays) deserves
particular attention. From each of
them springs a vaulting arch right
across to the opposite bay, as also one
to the alternate angles, thus producing
a singular intersection. Over the
altar are 3 blocked windows of
exquisite Norm, design, with double
dog-tooth moulding, and over the
middle light is another smaller Norm,
window. On the S. side of the chour is
an archway with 2 circular-headed
arches, and on the N. is some
moulding, apparently belonging to
an altar-tomb. The nave is lighted
by 8 Early Pointed windows, deeply
splayed inwardly. In the transept
are 2 chapels, the most northerly con-
taining a stoup, the design of which
is a misshapen head and face. The
monastic buildings are at the end of
the S. transept and adjoining the
nave; and in what was probably
a chapel to the S. of the choir is an
elaborate altar-tomb, on the pedi-
ment of which are 5 singular figures
representing ecclesiastics. The whole
row was evidently filled by them, but
the remainder have disappeared in
the course of time. The visitor should
also notice the doorway, an exquisite
pointed arch resting on 4 receding co-
lumns. This fine abbey was founded
in the 13th cent by Cathal O'Connor,
king of Connaught, for Canons Re-
gular of the order of St. Augustine,
and fortunately for the archaeologist
lias but little history, as such gene-
rally entailed the complete destruc-
tion of all the finest features. A
very dreary road leads from the
abbey to the Triangle, following the
Ireland.
Boute 22. — Clifden.
187
course of the Ayle, which like the
Cong river flows through a lime-
stone table-land, and has at times a
subterranean course. It rises near
the village of Aughagower in an
impetuous cavernous spring similar
to that of the Shannon on Culkeagh
motmtain (p. 60), and of course is the
subject of many a curious country-
side story. If the geologist has
time, he should follow the river up
to its source, through this singular
district. At all events, if the day is
clear, he wiU be gratified with the
distant views of Nephin over Lough
Carra, and the Reek near West-
port, which show to great advantage.
48 m. the Triangle, point of junction
of the Oastlebar and BaUinrobe roads.
A httle further on 1. is Ayle ch.,
and close by a mound surmounted
by the shell of a ruin, known as
McPhilbin's Castle.
[1^ m. 1. is the village of Augha-
gower (anc. Achadh-fabhair), which
should be visited on account of
its round tower, a venerable
ivy-covered tower, of apparently
5 stages, of rude workmanship. It
is lighted by 2 rude semicircular
arched windows, and entered by a
square doorway. The conical top is
wanting. Close by is the ruin of a
chapel with gable ends and high-
ditched roof, hghted on E. by a very
pretty 3-light window splayed in-
wardly. On the 1. of the buUding is
an oratory. Rejoining the high road,
on 1. is Moimtbrown (J. Livingston,
Esq.).
53 m. Westport (Rte. 22). Hotel :
Imperial.
ROUTE 22.
FROM CLIFDEN TOLEENANE, WEST-
PORT, AND SLIGO.
Clifden {Hotels: Hart's, comfortr
able ; Carr's. Mr. Hart is most
ready to communicate to the tourist
his large stock of local informa-
tion about this district}. After
traversing the wild, heathery roads
from Oughterarde and the Recess,
Clifden, with its picturesque streets
and escarped situation, is pleasant
to look upon. It mainly consists of
2 streets, built at a considerable
height, overlooking the harbour of
Ardbear — one of those beautiful in-
lets which are at once the puzzle
and the pride of Connemara, or
Conmhaicne-mara, " tlie land of
bays." It has no antiquities to
boast of, being an entirely modern
creation of the family of D'Arcy,
who have been untiring in labour-
ing for the good of the locality,
both temporally and spiritually. Its
buildings are a pretty ch. and
schools, an Irish Mission House, an
orphanage, and an enormous work-
house, the district of Clifden being
one of those which suffered so
fearfully in the famine year. The
union comprises an area of 102,066
acres. But for the invalid and the
searcher after the picturesque,Clifden
wiU furnish much pleasure from the
beauty of the coast and its proximity
to the Twelve Pins, which are seen
to the greatest perfection from every
road leading from the town. A river
descends from these mountains, form-
ing a very pretty cascade close to
the town, and falling into Ardbear.
The road to Roundstone and Erris-
lannin crosses an inlet of Ardbear,
188
Boute 22. — Clifden to Sligo.
Ireland,
giving occasion to the driver to call
attention to the fact of the traveller
crossing the Atlantic in a car. On
the 1. the view is very pretty when
the tide is up and fills the little
bay, an island with a crucifix on it
being in the middle and a monastery
on the opposite shore. The country
between Clifden and Koundstone
(Rte. 20) is extremely dreary, as also
all along the coast as &r as Bun-
owen, tlie seat of Valentine Blake,
Esq. ; but by mounting the hill
above it we get a good view of
Slyne Head, on which is a light-
house with one fixed and one revolv-
ing light. At Errislannin is the
ruin of an old ch. The great lion
of Clifden is Clifden Castle, formerly
the residence of the D'Arcy femily,
and now of that of Eyre. Its situa-
tion is matchless, embosomed in
woods overlooking the bay and oppo-
site coast of Busheen, beyond which
stretches the blue Atlantic. At a
distance, too, the towers look well,
but the effect is spoilt by a nearer
inspection. It is, moreover, badly
and untidily kept. From the castle
there is a charming walk down to
the shore, and along the bay to
Clifden, passing a Mission House
and the villa of Lakeeragh. But
little trade is carried on, save in fish.
Enormous quantities of lobsters are
annually sent aWay, so much so that
there is great difficulty in procuring
one in Clifden. A good deal of kelp
is manufactured on the coast, and sent
to Glasgow by Mr. Hart, who has a
storehouse near Bunowen. The price
varies from 2Z. 28. 6c?. to 21. 158. per
ton. The mouth of the harbour is
almost closed by a reef of rocks, ren-
dering the approach exceedingly
dangerous to vessels.
Conveyances, — To Oughterardeand
Gal way, a car twice a day.
2>/«tonce«.— Galway, 47 m. ; Ough-
terarde, 31 ; Recess, 13 J ; Round-
stone, 11 ; Bunowen, 8 ; Streams-
town, 3 ; Kylemore, 13 ; Leenane,
%\ ; EiTislannin, 5 ; Ballynakill, 6.
Excursions. —
1. Kylemore and Killaries.
2. Bunowen.
8. Roundstone.
4. Twelve Pins.
From Clifden the road runs N.
over high ground, the ascent of
which is rewarded by a charming
view on the 1. of the bay or inlet
of Streamstown, with the small
island of Innishturk, and the larger
one of Omey, at the entrance.
On the S. side of the bay is the
ruined ch. of Omey, and on the N.
the castle of Doon— a fortress of the
O'Flahertys, built upon a precipice
with a trench round it. 3^ m. L a
road branches off to Claggin Bay.
On the headland overlooking it is a
Martello tower. The tourist will
notice an increasing improvement in
the appearance of land and houses
aU the way from Clifden. There is
comparatively little waste bog, and
it is evident that a very superior
class of settlers have brought capital,
industry, and patience to bear upon
this hitherto neglected district
6 m. at Ballynakill the road sud-
denly descends upon the bay and
harbour of Ballynakill, a broad and
beautiful fiord, which sends its
arms in for a long distance and is
sheltered on every side by hills. On
the N. is the rocky mass of Rinvyle, .
rising almost directly from the shore,
and on the E. the bay runs nearly
to the foot of the outliers of Bunna-
beola, or the Twelve Pins.
Off Claggin Head, about 3 m. from
the shore, is High Island^ or Ard-
Oilean, uninhabited and difficult of
access from its rocky sides. There
are some curious remains here, con-
sisting of a square of about 20 yards,
at the comers of which were erected
small houses, with walls 4 ft high,
and domical roofs, the covering
being formed of one big stone. There
is also a ch. 12 ft. long and 10 wide,
with a stone altar. Many carved
and sculptured stones are scattered
about, as well as other graves-^
Ireland.
BotUe 22. — LetterfracJe — Kylemore.
189
probably of those who were not in
orders. The house of St Fechin,
of which an illustration is given in
Petrie's work, " is square in the inte-
rior, and measures 9 ft. b^ 7 ft. 6 in.
in height. The doorway is 2 ft 4 in.
wide and 3 ft 6 in. high. The mate-
rial of this structure, which dates
from the 7th cent, is of mica slate ;
and though its external appearance
is very rude, its interior is constructed
with admirable art. The doorway
of the ch. is 2 ft. wide, and its hori-
zontal lintel is inscribed with a cross.
The E. window, the only one in the
building, is semicircular-headed, and
is but 1 ft. high and 6 in. wide. The
chapel is surrounded by a wall, allow-
ing a passage of 4 ft. between them,
and from this a covered petssage
about 15 ft long leads to a cell,
which was probably the abbot's
habitation. There is also a covered
passage or gallery, 24 ft. long and
4 ft 6 in. high, the use of which it
is difficult to conjecture." — Petrie.
From these ^ts, and from statements
made by O'Flaherty, it was evidently
an establishment for Eremitical or
hermit-monks. In addition to the
interest of these ruins, the visitor,
should he be fortunate enough to
have a calm day, wiU obtain grand
views of the coast of Connemara.
Immediately opposite BallynakiU
harbour is the large island of Inish-
bofin, containing a considerable popu-
lation, mostly engaged in fishing, and
probably in a little potheen-distilling.
On the coast is some singular rock-
scenery. Separated from it by the
Stags of Bofin is the smaller island
of Inishark. At the end of Ballyna-
kiU bay are a pretty ch. and lodge
belonging to F. Graham, Esq.
8 J m. LetterfrcLcky a pleasant, well-
to-do little colony, established some
years ago by a Mr. Ellis, a Quaker,
who built a neat village, with aU
the necessary stores, police-bar-
rack, and schools for the establish-
ment, besides draining and planting
a very large portion of moorland. ;
Behind the village the beautiful
mountain called Diamond Hill rises
abruptly to the height of 1460 ft.,
forming one of the western groups
of the Twelve Pins.
The road soon enters the lovely
glenof X^ferwore, one of the gems of
Connemara, though possessing a some-
what melancholy character. On the
N. the glen is bounded by Doaghrue
(1717 ft"*, the rocky shoulders
of which are covered with green
shrubs and underwood, giving it an
English character not often to be found
in Irish scenery. On the S. are the
Twelve Pins— Adergoole (1577 ft),
Benbrack (1922), Muchana^ht
(2155), and Benbarron (2395;, rismg
one over the other in grand groups.
Indeed, from no pls^e can the Bun-
nabeola chain be seen to greater
advantage than from Kylemore, as
in all me southern views such a
vast amount of bog and flat coast
intervenes that their noble height is
lost, while here they gain from com-
parison with other mountains.
Before arriving at the Lough,
which reposes placidly at the foot
of the hills, we pass Adragoole, a
well-planted settlement reclaimed
from the barren wild by T. East-
wood, Esq.
The drive to the Hotel, which is
on the N. bank, is exquisite, the
road being carried under huge masses
of rock, glittering in the sunSght with
scales of mica, and festooned with
creepers and ferns. Here is a
comfortable inn, until lately kept by
a clergyman of the name of Duncan
— capital quarters for fishermen and
mountain-climbers.
ExcurgUyM. —
1. Leenane.
2. Lough Inagh.
3. Salrock and I*ough Fee.
From hence a road on rt. (one
of those completed in the famine
year by the Board of Works) runs
off to the S.E. to Lough Inagh.
15 m. crossing the little Owenduff
river, we cateh a glimpse to the 1.
190
Bonte 22. — Clifden to Sligo.
Irelaxd.
of Lough Fee, a long sheet of water
encircled on every side by lofty hills
(on the S. 1973 ft.)» save where the
stream emerges into the sea near the
entrance to the Killary.
A road runs off to its N. bank,
leading to the very pretty residence
of Sir W. R. Wilde, who has pitched
his solitaiy tent in one of the finest
of Connemara glens ; and from
thence to Salrock, which the tourist
had better visit from Leenane.
Passing over a dreary extent of
moor, the next rise of . the hill
brings us directly in front of the
Killary (anc. Caolshaile-luadh) —
that wonderful fiord, which has
scarce any parallel in the British
Isles, and more resembles the coast
scenery in Norway. It is an arm
of the Atlantic, running inland to
the very heart of the moun-
tains for a distance of some 9 m.
On each side steep and pre-
cipitous mountains descend to the
water's edge, on the S. leaving barely
room for the road. The mountain-
scenery on the N. of the fiord is
incomparubly the finest, the enor-
mous walls of Muilrea, the Giant
of the West, and Bengorm, rising
abruptly to the heights of 2688
and 2303 ft., while the excessive still-
ness of the land-locked water, in
which the shadows of the hills are
clearly reflected, make it difficult for
the tourist to believe that it is the
actual ocean which he beholds.
"A haven, beneath whose translucent floor
The tremulous stars sparkled unrathom-
ably,
And around which the solid vajwurs hoar,
Based on the level waters, to the sky
Lifted their dreadful crags."
SheUey.
A short drive along the S. bank
brings him to 21 m. Leenaney a soli-
tary and welcome little hotel at
the very edge of tlie water, not far
from the head of the fiord, with
L»fty hills springing directly from
tlie rear of the house, and a noble
expanse of water in front. Many
beautiful excursions can be made
from hence : —
1. To Lough Fee, and thence to
Salrock, 8 m. The best way is to take
a boat from Leenane, and row the
whole length of the Killary, turn-
ing abruptly round at the entrance,
and then going up the Little Kil-
lary, at the head of which is Sal-
rock, the exquisitely situated resi-
dence of the late Gen. Thompson. A
more fairy-like picture can scarcely
be conceived than is presented from
the Pass of Salrock, looking over tlie
Killary and the broad expanse of
the Atlantic, dotted with occasional
islands— the largest of which, Inisli-
turk, lies some 11 m. out. The
Pass of Salrock is said to have been
formed by the struggles of St. Roc,
who, having been chained by the
Devil when ho was asleep, made his
way with an immense deal of fric-
tion through the mountain. From
Salrock the visitor— having feasted
his eyes with the beauties around —
should return by a car sent by ap-
pointment from Leenane through
the wild glen of Lough Fee. The
whole of the mountains abound in
rare and beautiful ferns And heaths,
amongst which the white heath and
Menzesia polyfolia are conspicuous.
8 m. beyond Salrock is Rinvyle
House, the seat of the Blake family,
finely placed on the edge of a lofty
series of cliff-rocks. The ancient
castle of the Blakes — a weather-
beaten, massive tower — is about IJ
m. fui'ther on. The best way of
visiting Rinvyle will be by water.
2. ToMaume, 9 m. This is essen-
tially a mountain-road, following
the course of the glens that inter-
vene between the Mamturk and
Lugnabricka Mountains. Midway
the tourist passes a veiy pretty water-
fall, and the soUtary graveyard of the
Joyce sept — fit burial-place for a
race of hill-giants. Thence we attain
the watershed and descend the val-
ley of the Bealnabrack river to
Maume (Rte. 21).
iRELANDr
Boute 22. — Delphi — Westport,
191
In addition to these excursions, the
angler wOl find plenty of sport in the
waters of the Errive and in Lough
Nafooey, which lies in the moun-
tains between Leenane and Lough
Mask. The geologist will find work
enough in the constant variety of
hills, which contain many minerals.
The one at the back of the hotel,
which is nearly 1800 ft., contains ex-
cellent specimens of jasper and mica.
3. [To Delphi. A boat must be
taken to the little harbour of Bundor-
ragha, where there are a small pier
and a few cottages. From thence
the course of a mountain-stream is
followed up a narrow gorge, bounded
on either side by Muilrea (2688 ft.)
and Bengorm (2303)— two of the
finest mountains in the whole of
the W. of Ireland. IJ m., at the
upper end of the little Fin Lough,
are the woods and house of Del-
phi, formerly belonging to the Mar-
quis of Sligo, and now to the Hon.
D. Plunket. It may be safely said
that, if Connemara contained no
other beauty, Delphi alonis would
be worth the journey from Lon-
don, for the sak^ of the mountain-
scenery. 1 m. higher up is Lough
Doo, a long sheet of water, from the
banks of which the hills rise to be-
tween 2000 arid 3000 ft. At the S.
end is the pretty residence of Capt.
Houston, who is the owner of an
i^^nense mountain property, and who
possesses herds of horses, sheep, and
"fe-t kine innumerable." From
hence the road turns to rt. up the
course of the Glenummera river,
and, gradually ascending for many
miles the wUdest and most un-
tamable mountain-slopes, crosses the
watershed, and descends into Glen-
la wer. 8 m. at Shefl&y the cliff" sceneiy
is on a grand scale. A little further
on the Owenmore is crossed, and at
15 m. this road falls into the West-
port high road. If the weather is fine,
the tourist should by all means write
for a car to Westport to meet him
at Bandorrugha» and take this route.
which is very much finer than the
usual one, though it must be confessed
that the holes in the road require
all the driver's attention and care.]
From Leenane the road winds
round the head of the Killary, at
the base of a lofty hill which rejoices
in the name of the Devil's Mother.
At Ashlee are the residence of
the Hon. D. Plunket, and a pretty
Protestant ch. The Errive, whose
stream we are now following, is
an impetuous salmon-river, rising,
under the name of the Owenmore
(Big river \ in the chain of hills in-
tervening between Lough Doo and
Westport, where it is crossed by the
road just mentioned.
28 J m. Errive Bridge, was the scene
of a melancholy accident in 1860,
when, the bridge having been carried
away in a flood, an unfortunate lady
was drowned in attempting to ford
the stream in her car. As th6 road
ascends the valley the vegetation be-
comes more scanty and the moorland
more extensive. Crossing the water-
shed, we descend the valley of the
Owen wee, and gain glorious views of
the magical Clew Bay, which, if seen
at sunset, forms, with its hundred
islands, one of the most exqui^te
landscapes possible.
41 m. Westport (Rte.21) {Hotel:
Imperial) is one of the very prettiest
towns that it is possible to visit in
a long summer's day, and its beauty
is enhanced by being approached
for several miles each way through
a high and rather bleak country. It
is situated in a hollow, embosomed
on every side in groves and woods,
and watered by a small stream, which,
after passing through the centre of
the town and doing duty, both
useful and ornamental, in Lord
Sligo's Park, finds its level in Clew
Bay, which, with all its magical
scenery, is within a mile of the place.
Westport consists of one long main
street, with the stream in the middle,
a broad promenade on each side,
shaded by avenues of leafy lime-
192
Botde 22. — CUfden to Sligo,
Ireland.
trees, which give it somewhat the
appearance of a Spanish Alameda.
The foreign aspect is still further
increased hy the numbers of the
Irish lapses, who, with petticoats
tucked up, and bare legs, are con-
stantly washing, wringing and beat-
ing the clothes at the water-side, to
an ad libitum accompaniment of
jokes and chatter. The town itself
presents no object of interest save
a statue to George Glendenning, a
banker of Westport who managed to
enrich himself and his native town,
out of which he had never put foot
during his long life. "*He was a
rich mam of this place,* replied the
lad, *and so they made hum a
startu.' "Sir F. Head. The great
charm of Westport is the park of the
Marquis of Shgo, the gates of which
are at the end of the street, and are
ever open to all classes to wander
about at their will and pleasure. In
the centre of the park is the mansion,
a handsome square building on a
balustrated terrace, from the W. side
of which is a delicious view of Clew
Bay. A very pretty Protestant ch.,
used by the Westport inhabitants,
stands embowered amongst the
woods. Passing through the park we
arrive at the port, which is per-
fect in all the arrangements, save,
alas! the requisite of commerce.
"There was a long, handsome pier
(which no doubt remains at this
present minute), and one solitary
cutter alongside of it, which may or
may not be there now. As for the
warehouses, they are enormous, and
might accommodate, I should think,
not only the trade of Westport, but
of Manchester too. There are huge
streets of these houses, 10 stories
high, with cranes, owners' houses, &c.,
marked Wine Stores, Flour Stores,
Bonded Tobacco Warehouses, and so
forth ; dismal mausoleums as vast as
pyramids— places where the dead
trade of Westport lies buried." —
Tliackeray. It is to be hoped, how-
ever, that the extension of the rly.
from Atlilone will be the signal for
a renewal of bustle and trade, as
Westport undoubtedly possesses
many natural advantages over other
ports. (Pop. 3819.)
Conveyances. — Rail to Castlebar,
Athlone, and Dublin ; car to Sligo
daily, to Gralway daily through Bal-
linrobe, to Atheniy, to Newport, to
Tuam.
Distances. — ^Newport, 8 m. ; Achill
Sound, 27; Murrisk, 6 ; CroaghPatrick,
8 ; Louisburgh, 12J; Clare Island,16;
Clifden, 41 ; Leenane, 20 ; Castlebar,
11 ; Pontoon Bridge, 22 ; BaUina, 33 ;
Partry, 12 ; Ballintober, 10 ; Augha-
gower, 4 ; Ayle, 5 ; Ballinrobe, 19.
Westport is a central point for
many excursions —
1. To Leenane, Lough Doo, and
Delphi.
2. To Aughagower Bound Tower,
and Ballintobber Abbey (Rte. 21).
3. To Croagh Patrick and Murrisk
Abbey.
[The road runs through the park
and the port, emerging close on
the 8.. side of Clew Bay^ one of
the most extraordinary and lovely
of Irish islets. " The conical moun-
tain on the L is Croagh Patrick, or
the Reek ; it is clothed in the most
magnificent violet colour, and a
couple of round clouds were ex-
ploding as it were from the sunmiit,
that part of them towards the sea
lighted up with the most delicate
gold and rose colour. In the centre
is the Clare Island, of which the
edges were bright cobalt, while the
middle was lighted up with a brilliant
scarlet tinge. The islands in the
bay looked like so many dolphins
basking there." — Thackeray. The
bay forms a noble expanse of shel-
tered water about 15 m. in length ; the
entrance being partially protected by
the lofty clitfe of Clare Island^ while
the eastern extremity is studded with
immense nmnbers of islands which,
while they add to the picturesque
beauty of the scene, add also to the
difficulty of approach to the harbour.
Ireland.
Bovie 22. — Murrisk — Uie Reek,
193
These islands and channels are de-
fended by a singular natural break-
water extending from Westport to
the shore under the Reek. "This
bar is a breakwater 1\ m. long,
on which are situated the islands
of Doreinch More and Doreinch
Beg. It slopes seaward, in some
E laces, 1 in 30, and is formed of
oulders. Though natural, it is per-
haps one of the most remarkable
hydraulic works that exist in Europe ;
its mass being greater than that of the
breakwater at Plymouth or that of
Cherbourg." — BaM. There are 6 na-
vigable openings, the principal of
which is marked by a lightiiouse,
erected by the Marquis of Sligo.
Probably no bay in the kingdom
is surrounded by such magnifi-
cent ranges of moimtains. On the
S. the rugged declivities of the Beek
run down almost to the water's
edge, while further seaward the
coast is overhung, though at a greater
distance, by Muiirea, Benbury, and
the mountains of the Murri^ dis-
trict. On the N. are the wild and
lofty ranges of the Nephin Beg,
ending in the precipices of Slieve
More and Orogban in Achill Island.
The precipitous clifb of Glare Island
form a fitting seaward termina-
tion to the beauties of this won-
derful bay. The road passes by seve-
ral pleasant seats to 6 m. Murrish,
an ancient abbey at the foot of
Croagh Patrick, founded by the
O'Malleys for Augustinian Mars.
It is of no great extent, being single-
aisled, but has a beautiful Dec. E.
window of 5 lights. On the N. of the
chancel is a vaulted room, entered
by a plain pointed doorway. The
W. entrance, partially blocked up, is
also by a pointed gateway. In the
interior of the ch. is the tomb of
the O'Malleys, part of a stone cross
representing the Crucifixion, and
a collection of the biggest thigh-
bones that it is possible to con-
ceive. From this point the ascent
of Uie Reek (anc. Cruach-phadraig) is
[^Ireland.]
always commenced. This extraordi-
nary mountain rises with great abrupt-
ness for a height of 2510 ft., termi-
nating in what is apparently a point,
though there is really a small platform
of about ^ an acre on the sununit.
On the S. side is a very steep pre-
cipice, known as Lug na Narrib, on
the edge of which " St. Patrick stood
bell in hand, and every time he
rang it he flung it away from him,
and it, instead of plunging down the
Lug, was brought back to his hand
by ministering spirits; and every
time it thus hastily was rung, thou-
sands of toads, adders, and noisome
things, went down, tumbling neck
and heels one after the otiier." —
Otway, As may be imagined from
its height and its isolation, the Reek
affords most splendid panoramas of
the W. of Ireland, extending north-
wards over Murrisk, Ballycroy, Achill,
Erris, even to Slieve League on the
coast of Donegal, and southward
to the Leenane district and the 12
Pins ; but to Irish minds, the moun-
tain has a far higher interest, it
being a sacred hiU, devoted to pat-
terns, on which occasions the numbers
of "voteens^' or pilgrims would be
incredible to a stranger. Many hun-
dreds may on these occasions be
seen ascending the hill, stopping at
the different stations to say their
paters, and in some places to go
round on their knee& This part of
the performance is generally reserved
for the summit of the moimtain, the
long station being 400 yards in cir-
cumference, and around this the de-
votees have to go 15 times, also on
tbeir knees, which bef(»*e the termi-
nation are in a state of laceration.
A very important adjunct to thd
whole afi&ir is the whisky tent, a
melancholy and suggestive feature of
the occasion which requires such an
excitement Extraoroinary as are
the scenes of Irish life and character
to be witnessed at these patterns, the
tourist will probably enjoy his visit
to Croagh I^trick mr better in soli-
194
Bouie 22.— Cltfden to Sllgo.
Ireland.
tude and apart from these religioas
satumalia. The botanist will find
growinf? on this mountain Poa al-
pina, Melampynun piatense, Pin-
goicula lusitanica, Saxi&aga senu-
tifolia.
At the foot of the westerly ex-
tension of hill, of which the Reek
is the central cone, is Louisburgh,
a large village with a fine view over
Clare Island.]
4. To Newport and Achill. The
road to Newport runs for the greater
part of the distance within view of
the Clew Bay, so as effectually to
prevent any monotony. On the way
the little nver Rossow is crossed by
a bridge of 2 arches, beneath one
of which a whole family long kept
house and home.
8 m. Newport {Hotel: Oarr's), a
small seaport at the mouth of the
Newport river, looking better at a
distance than is warranted by a
nearer inspection. The N. bank of
the river is embellished by the re-
sidence of Sir Richard O'Donnell,
adding considerably to the beauty
of the town. There is a good pier,
where vessels of 200 tons can un-
load, but the trade of the port is very
small.
Distances, — Castlebar, 11} m. ;
Burrishoole, 2.
The road from Newport to Mol-
renny is nearly a straight line for
about 10 m., and depends for its
attractions very much on the wea-
ther that accompanies the tourist.
If it be clear, there is a magnificent
view seawards over the bay and
the opposite mountains of Murrisk,
while on the rt. inland is the equally
fine range of the Nephin Beg hiUs,
which run in a curving direction from
N.E. to W. with remarkably bold
outlines. The principal heights that
are seen between Newport and the
Bound are Buckoogh 1922 ft., Slieve
Turk 1322, Nephin Beg 2012, Cush-
oamcurragh 2202, Knocknatintree
1646, and Knocklettaragh 1509. The
streams issulDg from these hiUs, and
running into Clew Bay, are of no
great importance, as the ascent is so
immediate, but on the N. and W.
slopes they have a longer coarse to
Blacksod Bay, and are of considerably
larger volume.
10 m. Burrishoole^ at the entry
of the Burrishoole river, gives its
name to the whole district from
Newport to Achill. Here are remains
of a large monastery and ch. founded
for Dominicans by Richard Bourke,
Lord Mac William Oughter. It was
a cruciform building, with a central
slender tower, and has some good
pointed arches, the whole building
being of the 15th cent. Overlook-
ing an arm of the sea is Carrig-
hooley Castle, a square plain tower,
formerly one of the fortresses of
Grace O'Mealey, or Grana Uaile, the
mountain Queen of the West, who
lorded it over Mayo and the islands
with a prompt fierce sway, that even
in those days of lawlessness and rude-
ness commanded universal fear and
respect. On the coast there are
some singular caverns, believed to
have been druidical chambers. To
the rt. of the road, running up into
the heart of the hills, is Lough Fe-
oogh, the head of which lies between
Buckoogh and Slieve Turk; and on its
bank is the ruin of an iron-smelting
furnace. At 18 m. Molrenny, a small
" public " on the roadside overlooks
a marvellously beautiful landscape.
Very soon the road divides {on
the rt winding round the base of
Knocknatintree and opening out on a
landlocked inlet from Blacksod Bay.
At 'the mouth of the Owenavrea river
there is a 2nd division, the one on the
L taking a course near Annagh Sound
and Tullaghan Bay to Cregganroe
and Croy Lodge, both cultivated
oases in this desert of the far West,
which for untamed wildness sur-
passes anytliing in the kingdom, but
is an Utopia for sportonen ao>
cording to the author of • "Wild
Sports of the West.' The district
1 of Ballycroy embraces all the Ne-
Ireland,
BotUe 22. — Achilh
195
phin Beg range from Burrishoole to
Ems, and contains in this enormous
area scarce half a dozen inhabited
houses. " Along the seashore there
is some cultivation ; but inland, town-
less, roadless, treeless, one wide waste
of bog covers all. But it is not to
be supposed this is like the great flat
flow bogs in the centre of the island,
such as the Bog of Allen. No ; the
Bog of Erris, as well as those of
Connemara, covers mountains, hills,
champaigns, and vales : nature's
universal brown vesture, it fits all ;
and that is what makes the recla-
mation of these wastes hopeful." —
C. Otway. On the seashore below
Oregganroe is Duna Castle, an
ancient stronghold of Grace O'Mea-
ley's- (Grana Uaile). It is a mas-
sive square tower, with wonderftdly
strong masonry, though it could not
withstand the heat of a lar^e fire
which had been accidentally kindled^
causing the ruin to become ten
times more a ruin. The main road,
that parted company at the Owen-
avrea, runs more inland through a
monotonous district to Derrycorrib,
where it joins the route to Belmullet
(Kte. 19)].
The route to Achill now enters
the peninsula of Curraun, which, by
the little inlet from Blacksod Bay
just mentioned, is very nearly made
an island. The whole of it is oc-
cupied by the mountain of Boiock-
letteragh 1509 ft., and the road winds
round the northern side to Achill
Sound, a narrow strait of about J m.,
which communicates between Clew
and Blacksod Bays, aflbrding a most
valuable cut for vessels coasting up
or down, that would otherwise have
to round the dangerous cliffs of Cro-
ghan and Slievemore in Achill. On
the land-side is an establishment for
preserying fish and provisions, and
on the Achill side is a convenient
little store and inn, where the
tourist may procure a car. A small
toll is charged at the ferry. The
traveller must bear in mind that in
aU probabiUty the inn at the Sound
will be the only place where he can
procure a conveyance, and the only
place but one where he can put
up ; this other being at the Settle-
ment at Doogurth ; so that he must
make his arrangements accordingly.
If he makes a hasty run over the
island, he had better keep the car
at the Saltpans to take him back
to Westport; or he may possibly
catch one of the coasting hookers
running down the Sound from Bel-
mullet, which, if the wind be fair, will
land him at Westport in the course of
3 or 4 hours. " The Island of Achill
(Pop. 5776), the largest off the Irish
coast, is 16 m. in length and 7 in
breadth, forming a shore-hne about
80 m. in circumference, and com-
prising 46,000 acres. The western
side is mostly a precipitous range of
cliffe, but the eastern is in every
part well sheltered. Achill Head, a
bold promontory, is situated on the
S.W. extremity of the island, and at
the N. end is Saddle Head« at the
entrance of Blacksod Bay. Between
this and the smaller island of Achill
Beg is a channel called AchUl Hole,
where vessels drawing 10 or 12 ft.
of water may rest in safety in all
weathers. A very powerftd fide runs
in the Sound at the northern entrance
called the Bull's Mouth." — Lewis.
The general aspect of the island .
is one unvaried mass of dark hea>
ther, covering the broad undulating
moors that stretch from the high
ranges at the W. end of the district. A
main road traverses the island, pass-
ing 1. the residence of W. Pike, Esq.,
whose gardens, reclaimed from the
bare mountain, are worth a visit.
A little further on is Bunahurra,
the residence of the Kev. J. Henry,
the Eoman Catholic priest, occupying
a position that commands the most
magnificent coast and mountain views,
extending over BaUycroy, Blacksod
Bay, the Nepihn ranges, and the
high grounds of Curraun. The road
soon gains the highest level, and the
K 2
196
Boide 22. — Clifden to SUgo,
Ireland.
tourist is channed with an equally
fine view westward of the mighty
mass of Slievemore, the cloud-capped
summit of Ooghan, and to the S.
the precipitous ridges of Minnaun.
On ri a road runs for about 3 m. to
the N. coast, where, sheltered under
the steep rocks of Slievemore, is the
'Protestant colony of Doogurth, com-
monly known as the Settlement, 10 m.
from the sound. It is a cheerful-
looking square of plain white houses,
in the centre of which stand the ch.
and the clergyman's residence. In
the square are an inn ( not of the best),
residences for the various officials, a
printing establishment, 3 schools, an
orphan home, and dispensary. This
missionary establishment was set on
foot by the Rev. E. Nangle, to
whose self-denial and labours many
have borne testimony, as also to his
imcompromising battles with the
Boman Catholics ; as carried on in
the *Achill Herald,* some may
think a little too warmly. It is
not the province of a Handbook to
enter into religious discussions, but
it may not be out of place to warn
every tourist in the west of Ireland
that he must be prepared for ex-
treme statements, wnettier from Pro-
testants or Roman Catholics, and for
a lack of religious charity which each
party would do well to discard. The
ascent of Slievemore which overhangs
the colony at a height of 2217 ft, may
be unaertiaken here, but if the tourist
wishes to see Croghan, he had better
reserve himself, Slievemore is an ex-
traordinary cone of quartzose rocks
rising abruptly from the sea, and, with
its (&rk rifted sides occasionally re-
lieved by shining masses of mica,
presents a study for the painter at
once grand and remarkable, espe-
cially at sunset, when its apex
is often encircled by rose-coloured
clouds. Proceeding onwards, we come
to the village of Keel, a singular col-
lection of wigwams peculiar to AchilL
There is a beautiful strand here,
bounded on the E. by the cliffs of
Minnaun 1530 ft ; a path runs along
the cljffa to Dooega, another Achill
village, at an altitude and of a cha-
racter sufficient to try the nervous
climber. The little heaps of yellow-
red earth all aroimd are coloured
with ochre, which is dug out with
the bog iron ore in considerable
quantities in this neighbourhood.
We next come to Dooega, and
further on to Keem, 14 m. from
the Sound, both miserable hamlets
of round houses built without gable-
ends. It would seem that the abori-
gines of the island still hold iheir
court here. ' Towering above Keem
is the stupendous mciss of SHeve
Croghan, which, together with the
clifb of Mohir in Co. Clare and
Slieve League in Donegal, is con-
sidered the finest cliff scenery in
Great Britain.
The Croghan, 2222 ft. in height,
is a long range of mountain run-
ning along the N.W. coast of
AchiU, and cutting off the promon-
tory of Saddle Head, which is to a
certain extent an o^hoot from it.
But its grand and peculiar feature
is that at the very highest point it
would seem as if the rest of the
mountain had been suddenly cut
away, leaving a vast and tremendous
precipice descending down to the
water for nearly 1950 ft. " Here we
came upon a precipice nearly 2000 ft.
high that went down almost plumb ;
and then there was an incUned plane
covered with the debris of the upper
stratifications; and then again, 200
yards further on rt., there were cliffs
about 300 ft. high, against which the
waves washed. Here we -sat, the
cloud just festooning, as it were, a
raised-up curtain over our heads, and
all below was serene ; and from the
lowest edges of the precipice at this
point there extended a pretty little
vale in which was a tarn, so clear
that it might have been taken for a
mermaid's looking-glass." — C. O.
The view seawards is of CQui*8e
boundless, the nearest land being
Ireland.
Bovie 22. — Clare Island.
197
America, unless we believe in tiie
enchanted land of Hy Brisail (p. 170),
in which the dweUers on the W.
coast have such a beliefl Looking
S. is the small isolated rock of the
BiUies, and northwards towards Mul-
let are numerous islands, of which
the principal are Inishkeen and InisJt-
glortay where, according to some, the
dead are subject to such extraordinary
and preserving influences, that their
nails and their hair grow as in life,
" so that their descendants to the
10th generation can come, and with
pious care pare the one and clip the
other :"—
•* Cemere Inisgloria est Pelago, quod pro-
spicit Irras
Insula avos, atavos solo post fata sepultos.
Effigies servare suas vegetisque vigere
Unguibns atque oomis, hominum caro nulla
putrescit."
Sir Wm, O'KeUjf,
Further out are the Black Rocks,
on which is a lighthouse.
[On the return, before recrossing
the ferry, the traveller may diverge
to the S. of the island, where at Kil-
daunat, close to the water's edge, is
another square tower, formerly one
of Grana Uaile's fortresses. From
thence a visit may be paid to the
primitive village of Dhuega, lying
underneath the cliffe of Minnaun ; or
else the narrow strait may be crossed
which separates Achill from Achill
Beg, an inhabited isle of considerable
extent. Within the last 2 or 3 years
Achill has become more valuable in
consequence of its mineral treasures
being worked. Mr. Peel of Curraun
has obtained considerable supplies
of rich bog iron-ore, as well as of
steatite (soapstone), of which material
there are large supplies in the coast
between Kildaunat and Dhuega.]
5. To Clare Island, a pleasant
water excursion for those who are
not discomposed by the breezes of
the Atlantic. It is about 4 m. in
length, and comprises an area of
3000 acres, the coast being for the
most part defended by lofty cliffs. It
contains very slight remains of an
abbey founded for Carmelite friars
in 1224. It has a rather singular
window of 2 lights, trefoil-headed,
with sculptured spandrils. For many
years the skull of Grace O'Malley
was shown here, decorated with rib-
bons. The castle of this Queen of
the Isles is a square massive tower
similar to that at Duna.* Clare
Island was the home and head-
quarters of this Amazon, who lived in
the reign of Elizabeth, to whom she
once paid a visit So far, however,
from paying homage to the queen,
Grace O'MaUey conducted herself
in so rude a manner as £urly to non-
plus her Majesty, who offered to
make her visitor a countess — an
honour declined by Grana Uaile,
who informed the queen that she con-
sidered herself equal to her Majesty
in every respect. Her first husband
was O'Flaherty, Prince of Conne-
mara, and the owner of the castle in
Lough Corrib, which, being nearly
lost to tiie Joyces through him, was
saved by Grana's intrepidity, and so
acquired the name of the Hen's
Castle (p. 184). Her second husband
was William Bourke McWilliam
Oughter. "The marriage was to
last for one year, and if at the end
of that period either said to the other
*I dismiss you,* the union was dis-
solved. It is said that during that
year Grana took care to put her
own creatures into garrison in aU
McWilliam's coastward castles that
were valuable to her, and then one
fine day, as the lord of M^o was
coming up to the castle of Carig-a-
hooly, Grace spied him, and cried
out the dissolving words,* I dismiss
you.' "
A car leaves Westport every morn-
ing for S%o, though the tourist
may go as &r as Castlebar by rail.
With the exception of distant views
of the Croaghmoyle and Nephin
ranges, the way is uninteresting.
Passing Greenhill ( — Stafford, Esq.),
and Spencer Park (J. Larminie,
Esq.), we arrive at
198
Route 22. — Clifden to Sligo,
Ireland.
52 m. Castlebar {Holds: Daly's;
Armstrong's), principally celebrated
for its capture m 1798 by the French,
who had landed at Killala Bay (Rte.
19) under Gen. Humbert, and made
themselves masters of the town,
which they evacuated on the ap-
proach of llie Marquis of Comwallis.
This little episode waa known by
the name of the Castlebar Races. It
is a good-looking place, with all the
buUdings necessary to a small coun-
try town, viz. gaol, court-house, and
barracks, in addition to a shady and
well-timbered mall, which is certainly
a very pleasant adjunct The Lawn
is the residence of tiie Earl of Lucan,
who has done more than any land-
lord in the country to improve the
agriculture of tbis district, of which
he owns about 30,000 acres. The
country around Castlebar is not
inviting, although the mountains,
some 5 m. to the N., rise to a con-
siderable height, Knockmore to 1259
ft., and Spinkanilen 1290 ft., being
the only barriers that separate Castle-
bar from the conical mass of Nephin
2646 ft., one of the most lofty and
conspicuous hills in the W., which
give such characteristic features to
Sie scenery of Lough Conn.
Conveyances. — To Athenry daily;
to Westport ; to Ballina and Sligo ;
by rail to Castlereagh and Athlone.
Distances.— Pontoon Bridge, 11 m.;
Newport, 11 1 ; Westport, 11 ; Bal-
lina, 22 ; Crossmolina, 19 ; Balla, 8 ;
Castlereagh, 37.
[The antiquarian may pay a visit
from Castlebar to Balla, a village
about 8 m. to the 8.E. on the road
t6 H611ymount. Here is a round
tower about 50 ft. in height, and the
remains of a ch. built by St. Mochun
in the 7th cent. He also caused 2
wells to be formed, which he enclosed
with walls, from whence the town
took its name : " Unde oppidum no-
vum nomen Balla et etiam Mochun
cognomen Ballensis accepit."
In the neighbourhood of Balla are
Attavalley (Sir R. Blosse, Bt.), and
Broomhill. A little -to the S. is the
district known as tJie Plains of
Mayo, and in the village of the same
name are slight ruins of an abbey,
which was the locale of an uni-
versity very celebrated in the 7th
•cent., and founded by St Cobnan,
who for that purpose resigned his cell
of lindisfame in Northumberland.
There are one or two ancient fortifi^
mansions in the neighbourhood.]
Following up the Castlebar river,
is 56 m. Turlough, in which parish is
another round tower. The bleak and
boggy scenery begins to improve,
especially as we near the long ranges
of the Croaghmoyle Hills and 3ie
Loughs Conn and Cullen at Pontoon
Bridge. The former is a very fine
sheet of water 15 m. long, inter-
spersed with beautiful islands, and
overhung by mountains, especially on
the W. bank, which is almost entirely
occupied by the mighty mass of Ne-
phin. Lough Cullen is sometimes
called Lower Lough Conn, and is
connected by a short stream, across
which the road is carried by a
bold single-arched bridge known as
the Pontoon. The view looking up
and down from this bridge is of a
very remarkable and beautiful ^cha-
racter. " An extraordinary phe-
nomenon is visible here in the alter-
nate ebbing and ilowing of these
lakes ; the water is sometimes seen
rushing with great force through the
channel into Lough Cullen, while at
others it runs witii equal force into
Lough Conn. The shores of both
lakes being composed in many places
of a fine red sand, the line of high
water mark can be distinctly traced
several miles above the water, and
then in tlie space of an hour it rises
to the higher level in one lake, while
it is low in the other." — Lewis. An
hotel was built on the Cfistlebar
side of the Pontoon by Lord Bing-
ham, but it is now shut up. Near
the bridge is a singular rocking-
stone close to the lake.
[A road branches off along the
Ireland.
Boute 23. — Dyblin to Wexford,
•199
W. side of the lough under Nephin
to the little town of
Crossmdina^ situated on the line
of road between Ballina and Erris.
Previous to reaching it, we pass on
rt. the peninsula of Errew, on which,
overlooking the water, are remains
of an abbey with a good E. window.
The Deel runs through Orossmolina,
and on its banks is the modernised
mansion of Deel Castle, occupying
the site of an ancient fortress.
Conveyances. — To Ballina ; to Ban-
gor and BelmuUet ; the road to the
latter places being carried over one
of the wildest hill commons that
even the dreary barony of Tyrawley
can show.]
Crossing the Pontoon Bridge rt.
is a road to Foxford (Rte. 19). From
lience we sMrt the S.E. comer of the
lake, obtaining magnificent mountain
views of Nephin, on which, by the
way, the botanist will find Pinguicula
lusitanica. Soon approaching the
valley of the Moy, we arrive at
74 m. Ballina {Hotels: Flynn's; Im-
perial), together with the northern
coast of Killala and Downpatrick,
described in Rte. 19.
The road now runs over mo-
notonous high ground for many
miles, crossing the Easky river, a
considerable stream, the mountain
valley of which is strewn with
granite boulders, to 89 m. Dromore,
a very pretty village on the wooded
banks of a rushing stream that de-
scends from the Slieve Gramph Moun-
tains, at the foot of which the road
runs nearly the whole way to Bally-
sadare. They are of picturesque
outline and considerable height,
averaging 1600 ft. Woodhill is the
residence of L. Jones, Esq. ; and Sea-
view of — Jones, Esq.
Suddenly the sea bursts upon the
sight, and, with occasional inter-
ruptions, forms a welcome feature in
the landscape all the way to Sligo.
In the distance, on the 1., is Aughris
Head, and the ruins of the old castle
of Ardnaglass, a stronghold of the
M*Swynes. This parish of STcreen,
the ch. of which stands prettQy
amongst the trees, is said to have
been at one time so important as to
have contained 7 churches.
The beautiful woods of Tanrego
(W. Knox, Esq,), and Dromore Ch.,
occupy the banks of Ballysadare
Bay, which here forms a very charm-
ing inlet, bounded on the N.E. by
the tnmcated cone of Knocknarea.
106 m. Ballysadare (Rte. 18).
110 m. Sligo (Hotels: Imperial;
Victoria) (Rtes. 8-18 ).
ROUTE 23.
FROM DUBLIN TO WEXFORD, THBO0OH
WiCKLOW, ARKLOW, AND ENNIS-
CORTHY.
This route is performed by rail to
Enniscorthy, and thence by coach.
The Dublin, Wicklow, and Wexford
line was in 1856 unitied to that of
the Dublin and Kingstown Co., rfnd
although at present only extend-
ing to Enniscorthy, a distance of
36 m., is intended to be carried on
to Wexford. The tourist may take
his choice of proceeding by 2 rlys.
as far as Bray. The Kingstown
and Bray line is described in Rte.
24.
200
Boute 23.— Dublin to Wexford.
Irelakd.
Quitting tbe Haroourt-str. Stat.,
a plain, massive, Dorie building, ap-
proached by a flight of steps and a
colonnade, we pass through the
suburbs of Rathmines and Milltown,
near which stat., 2 m., the Dodder,
a bright active stream running from
the Dublin mountains, is crossed;
thence passing Windy Harbour and
leaving on rt. Kathfarnham, we arrive
at, 3 m., Dundrum, another suburb
much resorted to as a residence by
the worthy citizens. To 1. of the stat.
is Mount AnviUer the seat of William
Dargan,* Esq., to whose active enter-
prise and patriotism almost every
portion of Ireland can bear testi-
mony, although his greatest improve-
ments have been effected in Bray
and the county Wicklow generally.
The house and grounds, with its con-
servatory and look-out tower, are
well worth seeing; the former con-
tains statues of the Queen and Prince
Consort, presented by her Majesty
to Mr. Dargan after her visit.
We now get near sight on the rt.
of the beautiful ranges of mountains,,
and can appreciate the advantages
which the Dublin inhabitant pos-
sesses in being able to emerge almost
out of the s&eets of a great town
into the heart of bold hill scenery.
Immediately on the rt the most con-
spicuous object is the Three Hock
Mountain, 1763 ft. (on which the
Pinguicula Lusitanica is to be found),
the advanced guard of granite hills
that extend from hence to Naas, in
the CO. of Kildare. It is worth while
to make an excursion to the summit,
leaving the rly. at 5 J m., Stillorgan,
from which point the distance is not
great, though the collar-work is
heavy. The views over Dublin Bay,
the Hill of Howth, and the ranges
inland, are at once exquisite and
peculiar. At the foot of tlie hill,
near Step-aside, is the ruined tower
of Kilgobbin, which, whether from
its name or otherwise, is popularly
attributed to Gobhan Saer, and was
suppojied to have contained marvel-
lous treasures at its foundations. The
neighbourhood to the 1. of the rail-
way is crowded with villas and resi-
dences ; amongst which are Newtown
Park and Stillorgan, the seat of H.
Guinness, Esq. (the latter contain-
ing some remarkably fine lime-
trees); the same may be said of
Foxrock and Cabinteely, a village
situated at the western foot of Kil-
liney Hill, which, with the high
ground running down from Kings-
town and Dalkey, intercepts the
view of the sea for the present. The
line has been traversing, between
this last range and the Three Hocks,
a hill valley sometimes called tbe
Vale of Dundrum; and at Carrick'
mines, 7 m., it enters that of Shan-
gannagh, emerging on the coast
at Bray. Near the stat. are some
antiquarian remains ; on the rt. the
ruins of the little ch. of Tully
(said by Ledwich to have been built
by the Ostmen), with a cross in the
burying-ground ; and on the 1., in
the grounds of Glendruid, is a
cromlech, consisting of a large table-
stone, 14 ft. long by 12 brcMd, sup-
ported by 6 uprights.
At the village of Kilteman, near
GU)lden Ball, 2 m. to rt., is a second
cromlech, the covering stone of
which measures 23 ft. 6 in. by 17 in
breadth, and also rests on 6 sup-
porters.
The little ch. of Kilteman pre-
sents an ancient side-wall and
W. gable, with a blocked square-
headed doorway, the present one
being on the S. side. " This altera-
tion was made probably at the time
of the re-erection of the E. end, the
style of which indicates a period not
earlier than the close of the 13th
cent., about which time the custom
of placing the doorway in the W.
end appears to have ceased.** — Wake-
man,
9i m., at Shankhill stat., a junc-
tion is formed with the Kingstown
and Dalkey line, and a verv pic-
turesque view is obtained of Kil-
Ireland.
Boute 23. — WicMow.
201
liney Hill» its quarries, and its villas,
with a broad expanse of sea on the 1.,
while on the rt. are fresh summits
and peaks — the Two Bock Moun-
tain, 1699 ft., on the W., and the
Sugarloaf, 1659 ft, just appearing
on the 8. Immediately to the rt.
of the rly. is a rather low hill
surmounted by a tower, serving
both as a shot-tower and an outlet
for the smoke of the lead-mines of
Ballycorus. Behind this ridge is
the Scalp, leading from Enniskerry
to Dublin, described in Bte. 24.
The parish of Rathmichael, in
which ShankhUl is situated, was once
of considerable imporiance, and was
claimed by the Vicars Choral of the
cathedral of Dublin as their per-
quisite. There are slight ruins of
the ch.
About ^ m. on rt. of stat. is another
cromlech in good preservation, to-
gether with a few remains of Puck's
Castle and a round tower, though
of this last only about 2 ft. exist.
On rt. of the junction are Shan-
ganah Castle (Capt. Hayman), and
the ruins of Kilturk ch.
The line now runs along the coast
to
12 m. Bray, described in Bte. 24.
(Hotels: BresUn's, International, both
nrst rate ; Quin's, good.)
For the remainder of the distance
to Wicklow the rly. closely hugs the
coast — so closely that in many places
it timnels through projecting head-
lands or is carried at great heights
over clif&, gullies, and ravines, at the
bottom of which the waves may be
seen leaping up with terrible fury.
Indeed it is difficult to find any-
where more romantically placed or
bolder executed works. Gliding out
of the stat. at Bray, we round Bray
Head by a succession of short tunnels,
and on emerging on the other side
obtain beautiM views on rt. of the
Sugarloaf (Great and Little), with the
charming seat of Kilruddery (Earl
of Meatn) at the foot of the latter.
(Bte. 24.) A little before arriving
at Greystones, 17 m., we pass on the
rt. the ruins of the ch. and Castle of
Bathdown. Greystones is a pleasant
little bathing-place, about 1^ m. from
Delgany, which, with the Glen of
the Downs, had better be visited by
road from Bray.
Near Kilcoole stat., 20 m., are
Ballygannon and the village of Kil-
coole 1 m. to rt., and Woodstock
House (Col. Tottenham). 22 m., at
Newcastle, the hills recede, and leave
a considerable tract of level sJlu-
vial ground. 25i m. Killoughter
stat. is 3 m. from Ashford and the
neighbourhood of the Devil's Glen.
iSx)m this point it is nearly 3 m. to
Wicklow (anc. Cili-mantain) {Hotda :
Bailway; Fitzwilliam), which, with
the quaint-lookine town stretching in
a semicircle round the bay, the tower
of Black Castle, and the distant pro-
montories of Wicklow Head, mc^es
up a very charming landscape.
It is said to have derived its name
from its position at the outlet of a long
narrow creek, called the Murragh,
that runs N. nearly as &r as Kil-
loughter, and receives the waters of
the Vartry ; also to have been called
Wigginge Lough, " The Lake of
Ships," from its being one of the
earliest maritime stations of the Danes.
A castle was begun by Maurice Fitz-
gerald in the 12th, and finished by
Fitzwilliam in the 14th cent. Por-
tions of the tower still remain on a
promontory at the end of the town.
The ch. possesses a copper cupola and
a good Norm, doorway, that has been
trs^isplanted from an older bmlding.
The town itself is not particularly
clean or inviting, but thero are some
fine walks in the neighbourhood along
the cliffi to Bride's and Wicklow
Heads, on each of which is a fixed
lighthouse.
Conveyances. — Bly. to Dublin and
Enniscorthy; car to Shillelagh.
Distances. — Dublin, 28 m. ; Bath-
drum, 8; Ashford, 4J; Gorey, 25;
Arklow, 15 ; Avoca, 10 ; Bray, 16.
K 3
202
Boute 23.— Dublin to Wexford.
Ireland.
ExcunioTM. —
1. Rathdrum and Vale of Avoca.
2. Ashford and Devil's Glen.
3. Wicklow Head.
The rly. now turns inland to the
S.W., and as9ends towards the moun-
tains, passing the village of Glenealy,
where the scenery is picturesque and
varied with extensive woods.
On rt. are Glencarrig (Rev. G.
Drought), Ballyfree (Rev. H. Tombed
and Hollywooa (G. Tombe, Esq.),
situate at the wooded base of CW-
rick Mountain, 1252 ft.; and on 1.
is a wooded defile known as the
Deputy's Pass, from the fact of the
army of Sir William Fitzwilliam,
the Lord-Deputy, having marched
through it in 1595.
36 m. Rathdrum (Rte. 24).
[The road firom Wicklow to ArMow
is not remarkable in any way ; gene-
rallv speaking it is prettily diversified
with hill and dale, keeping inland so
as seldom to obtain views of the sea,
though frequently of the mountains
which keep company on the rt. At
82 m. is Bfidlymoney House ( — Revel,
Esq.), and a little farther on, occupy-
ing an elevated position, is Westaaton,
the seat of T. Actoij, Esq. At the
former spot the road divides ; the one
keeping closer to the coaat, and the
other making a slight d^toiur inland,
and crossing at Kilboy Bridge the
Potters' River, a small stream that
runs down through the Deputy's Pass.
On its bank, between the 2 roods, is
the ruined keep of Danganstown
Castle. The character of the coast
will be seen to have changed a good
deal, for, instead of the steep and
rugged cliffi of Wicklow Head, we
have now low sandy dunes, inter-
rupted solely by the promontory of
Mizen Head. The hills to the rt.
and the distant woods to the W. of
Arklow plainly show the course of
the " sweet vale of Avoca," the mouth
of which we cross by a long narrow
bridge, and enter the little port of
43 m. Arklow TRte. 24) {Inn : Kin-
eela's), a busy fishing and shipping
town, on the side of a hill overlooking
the sea. Under the name of Arclogh
it was included under those grants of
territory for which Henry H. caused
service to be done at Wexford, and
possessed a castle and a monastery,
which have both disappeared save a
fragment of the tower of the former.
Tlus is the shipping port for the
copper and le€td-mines in the valley
of the Avoca, the material being
brought down by a tramroad. In
consequence of this trade, Arklow is
a rendezvous for a large number of
coasters waiting to take the ore to
Swansea. The beautifiil scenery in
the neighbourhood of Shelton and
Wooden Bridge is described in the
Wicklow tour CRte. 24).]
Distances. — Wicklow, 15 m.; Go-
rey, 10; Shelton, 2 J ; Wooden
Bridge, 4.
Continuing by rail from Arklow^
the traveller arrives at
Gorey, a small town of one street
j m. in length, associated with Ferns
as the seat of a bishopric. A little
to the N. of the town is Ramsfort,
the residence of the family of Ram,
which was burned down by the in-
surgents in the troubles of 1798.
3 m. to the S.E. is Courtown House
(Earl of Courtown), in the sheltered
valley of the Owenavorragh at its en-
trance into the sea. The evergreens
in the park are especially worthy of
notice. " Among them is one which
has assmned more the habit of the
bush than the tree. Its outline is
domical ; the stem, at 3 ft. from the
ground, is 16 ft. in circumference,
but above this it divides into nume-
rous ramifications; the branches ex-
tend over an area whose periphery
is 210 ft."— JFVascr.
To the S. of Courtown is the
mount of Ardamine, a singular
earthen spherical mound standing
on an artificial platform. It was
probably sepulchral, as the ch. and
graveyard of Ardamine are adjoining.
The geologist may examine the
Lower Silurian rocks in this neigh-
Ireland. Boute 23. — Ferns — Newtown Barry,
203
bourhood» the equivalents of the
Bala and Caradoc beds of Wales.
Distances. — From Wexford, 25 m. ;
Ferns, lOJ ; Newtown Barry, 19 ;
Enniscorthy, 18.
[The direct coach-road to Wex-
fora runs due 8. over high ground,
descending into the valley of the
Owenavorragh river, and passing
Ballywalter House (J. Pounden, Esq. ),
68 m. the villages of Ballycanew,
Killenagh, and Wells House, the
prettily-wooded seat of E. Doyne,
Esq. When the road again ascends
the high ground, the traveller gains
distant views on rt. of Vinegar Hill,
near Enniscorthy, and the range of
Mount Leinster in tiie fiu* west.
76 m. is the pretty village of
Castlebridge, with its neat little ch.
and extensive flour-mills ; soon after
which the long wooden bridge is
crossed to 79 m. Wexford.]
The rly. passes Camolin, a decayed
village at the head of the valley of
the Bann, a tributary of the Slaney.
To the N. at the base of Slieveboy,
1385 ft., is the extensive demesne of
Camolin Park, formerly the seat of
the Earl of Yalentia, but now out of
repair.
Keeping on rt. some considerable
woods, known as Kilbora, Ooolpuck,
and Coolroe Woods, we arrive at
63 J m. Ferns, a poor, miserable town,
yet claiming some importance as being
the seat of a bishopric, united with
that of Ossory and Leighlin.
In the year 598 Brandubh King
of Leinster made a grant to St. Edan,
who forthwith built a monasterv, in
which he was himself interred. "JTime
after time did the city suffer from the
incursions of the Danes. John Earl
of Morton, who built the castle, offered
the bishopric to Giraldus Cambrensis,
who, however, refused it. The ca-
thedral is a modem Perp. building
with a square embattled tower, built
on the -site of an old ch. which was
supposed to have been the original ch.
of St. Edan. There are remains of the
monastery for Augustinians founded in
the 12th cent, by Dermod M*Murough,
consisting of some E. Eng. windows
and " a tower of 2 stages, of which the
lower is quadrangular and the upper
polygonal, and covered with moss
and ivy, which give it a circular
form; within is a geometrical stair-
case leading to the top of the square
tower."
The castle was a quadrangular
fortress overlooking the town. One
of the round towers that flanked the
comers is still in good preservation,
and contains a chapel with a groined
roof. The Episcopal Palace dates
from the last cent., and is the centre
of a pleasant demesne adjoining the
cathedral. It was built by Thomas
Ram in 1 630, ** who, being of very
advanced age, placed this inscription
above the porch —
'This bouse Ram built for bis saooeeding
brothers :
'VhvLs sheep bear wool, not for themselves,
but others.' "
[An extremely pretty excursion
can be made to the valley of the
Slaney and the town of Newtown
Barry, 9 m. From the high ground
between Ferns and the Slaney the
tourist gains splendid views of Mount
Lemster, 2610 ft., Black Stairs, 2409,
and White Moimtain, 1259 — a noble
and romantic range that intervenes
from N. to S. between the valleys of
the Slaney and the Barrow (Ete. 28).
4J m. the Enniscorthy road is joined
on the 1. or E. bank of the Slaney,
just between Ciobemon Hall (M. De
Renzy, Esq.) and Ballyrankin (Rev.
J. Devereux).
A little higher up is the village of
Globemon, with its mill and cotton
factory.
Here the river is crossed, and the
road continues on the W. bank to
9 m. Newtown Barry {Hotel:
Gillis's), a neat and well-built town,
in a very fine position overlooking the
Slaney, and at the feet of Greenogo
and Black Rock Mountains, both
shoulders of Mount Iieinster. The
204
Bofde 23.— Dublin to Wexfiyrd.
Ireland.
Sloney is croaaed by a bridge of 7
arches, as is also the Olody, a small
stream that here divides Garlow
fix>m Wexford. Newtown Barry has
a very good agricultural trade,
and possesses several flour-mills.
The ch.-spire rises prettily from a
wooded grove, and the whole town
is surrounded by ornamental resi-
dences: Woodfield (B. Hall Dare,
Esq.), Ihe grounds of which are beau-
tifully laid out, and extend for some
distance on each bank of the Slaney ;
Bainsford Lodge (S. Bam, Esq.);
and Bavenswood.
Newtown Bany is a convenient
point from whence to ascend Mount
Leinster, as the load to Borris
passes through the defile of Corrabut
Gap between it and Kilbranmiish.
Take the road to the S. thal^tums off
here, and follow it to a spot called
Ninestones, from whence the ascent
is steep, but direct Ninestones is 7^
m. from the town .
Distances.— 'FeruB, 9 m. ; Borris,
14; Glonegall, 5; Enniscorthy, 12.
Excursion. —
Mount Leinster.]
The line now follows the valley
of the Barrow, and strikes upon the
Slimey near Scarawalsh Bridge, 67
m., a road from which is carried on
both sides of the river. On the E.
bank is Killabeg (S. Davis, Esq.),
8olsborough (Bev. S. Eicbards), and
Greenmount (T. Waring, Esq.).
72 m. Enniscorthy {Hotel : Nu-
zam*s) is one of the prettiest little
towns in the kingdom, the largest
portion of it being on a steep hill on
the rt. bank of the Slaney, which
here becomes a deep and navigable
stream, and is crossed by a bridge of
6 arches. From the stream above
the bridge dividing its channel the
Erefix Ennis (Ynys island) was pro-
ably obtained, and the latter half of
the name is said to have been derived
from. " Oorthoe, the capital of the Co-
riondi." The things to be seen are
a ch. in better taste than most in
Ireland, a single tower of the old
Franciscan monastery, and the pic-
turesque ivy-covered square keep,
flanked by drum towers, of the castle
built vby Kaymond le Gros. It has,
however, been modernized, and is in-
habited by a caretaker. Overlook-
ing the E. bank is Vinegar Hill, an
eminence only 384 ft. in height, but
worth ascending, partly for the v^y
fine view over the valley of the Slaney,
the Leinster range, and the district
towards the coast, and partly from the
association of the battle of Vinegar
Hill, on the 29tii May, 1798, when
the insurgents, in number upwards
of 10,000 men, were attacked by Gten.
Lake and completely routed. The
rebels had a few days previously
succeeded in plundering and very
nearly destrojring Enniscorthy, many
of the loyal inhabitants having been
captured, led to the camp, and put to
death. A great deal of trade is car-
ried on here, coal being brought up
the river from Wexford into the inte-
rior, and com and butter sent back.
In the neighbourhood of the town,
on the Borris road, are Verona (G.
F. Newbery, Esq.), Daphney Gastle
(T. Davies, Esq.), Monart (Counsellor
Oooknmn), and Killoughrum (T.
Buckley, Esqj); the latter in the
midst of a thick and extensive
plantation known as Killoughrum
Forest.
Conveyances. — Cars daily to Water-
ford, to Wexford ; rail to Dublin.
Excursions. —
!► Newtown Barry.
2. Vinegar Hill.
3. Ferns.
Distances. — Gk)rey, 18 m. : Wex-
ford,. 13 J ; Newtown Barry, 12 ; Ferns,
8 ; BaUywiUiam, 14, [to which lat-
ter place it is an uninteresting drive,
relieved during the latter portion by-
fine views of Mount Leinster and
Blackstairs.1
The road from Enniscorthy to
Wexford is full of great beau^, in
which the chief elements are a noble
river with lofW wooded banks, rich
pastures, and pleasant country-houses.
Ireland.
Route 23.— Wexford.
205
On the opposite or W. bank, a little
below the confluence of the Umn, is
the site of St. John's House for Augus-
tine Friars. On the rt. bank, Boro-
dale (D. Beatty, Esq.) and Bormount
(V. Bartolucci, Esq.) ; on the 1. bank
Bochfbrt (Mrs. Callaghan), and Eder-
mine, the channing seat of Sir J.
Power, Bart.
Here the road gradually draws off
&om the river, and, as it ascends
higher ground, commands even more
beautiM views. 77 m., rt. bank, are
Maokmine (J. Richards, Esq.); and
below, Bellevue (A. Cliffe, Esq.) and
Brookhill (T. BeU, Esq.), q)po8ite to
which on rt. is Kyle House (P.
Harvey, Esq.).
[At Kyle Cross Boads, 80 m., a
ioa(l on 1. leads to Castlebridge (p. 203) ;
passing St. Edmond's (Capt. Irvine)
and Artramon (G. Le Hunte, Esq.),
2 fine estates on the N. shore of ibe
estuary, together with the ruined
ch. and keep of Artramon Castle.
By this road, however, the tourist
loses a beautifdl landscape, as he de-
scends to the wooden bridge over the
Slaney, which narrows at this point,
swelling out on the 1. in a broad es-
tuary, and on the rt. in a quiet reach
with high rocky banks fringed with
brushwood. A ruined tower com-
mands the bridge on the N., and there
are also slight traces of one on the
S., said to have been the first fortress
erected by the Anglo-Normans in
Ireland. Looking up the river are
Killowen (P. Walker, Esq.) and Ard-
candrisk (Hon. Mrs. Morgan; on oppo-
site banks, and on the 1. bounding the
N. shore is Saunders Court (Earl of
Arran).
Crossing the bridge, where a toll
has to be paid, the road divides ; on
the rt. to Enniscorthy by the rt. bank
and on the 1. to]
85 J m. Wexford (Rte. 28) (Hotd:
White's, tolerable). Pop. 11,673. At a
distance Wexford is a pleasant-looking
place, owing to its situation on the side
of a hill, the summit of which is
plentifully garnished with wood and
overlooks the estuary, of the Slaney
and Wexford Haven. But the streets
are inconvenient, and narrow to such
a degree that it is a matter of arrange-
ment to prevent 2 vehicles meeting
each other in the principal thorough-
fieu'es ; indeed, the tounst when en-
sconced in his hotel is rather startled
to find himself with an Asmodeus-like
view of the interiors of the opposite
houses. Wexford is, however, a quaint
and ancient little place, and a day
may be spent to advantage. It was an
early and important maritime settle-
ment of the Danes, and from its
secure harbour and its proximity to
England was naturally one of the
earUest landing-places of the Anglo-
Norman invaders. Here Strongbow
resided and celebrated the marriage
of his sister Basilica with Raymond le
Gros ; and here, in modem times, were
the head-quarters of the rebels in '98,
who kept it for nearly a month in their
possession, and put to death 91 of the
inhabitants. Wexford was a walled
town, and possessed an unusually early
charter, granted by Adomar de Va-
lence in 1318. Of these walls, " 5 of
the towers, 3 square and 2 round, axe
still in a sufficient state of preserva-
tion to show that the walls were 22 ft.
high, and were supported on the in-
side by a rampart of earth 21 ft. thick."
At the W. end of the town, where
the W. gate stood, are the ruins of St.
Peter and St. Paul, usually called
Selsker ch. This abbey was founded
at the close of the 12th cent, by the
Roches, Lords of Fermoy, and seems to
have partaken a good d^ of l^e de-
fensive character : but of late years so
much modem building haB taken
place here, that it has almost de-
stroyed the main features of the ruins.
Connected with the ancient tower is
tiie modern E. Eng. ch. of St. Selsker,
on the site of the spot where the first
treaty ever signed by the English and
Irish was ratified in 1169. There is
a singular legend that Cromwell took
206
Boute 2S.—Wexford-'FoHh.
IllELAND.
away the peal of bells from this ch.,
and shipped them off to a ch. in
Liverpool ; in return for which, free-
dom of the town and exemption from
port dues were granted to Wexford
merchants.
Nearly in the centre of the town
are the scanty ruins of St. Mary's.
As regards religious edifices, the
Koman Catholics carry off the palm
in Wexford, and the tourist should
not omit to visit St. Peter's ch., an
elaborate and really beautiful Dec.
building with a very lofty spire and a
remarkably good rose-window. This
ch. is attached to St. Peter's College on
Summer Hill, overlooking the town,
which, with its square central tower, is
a conspicuous object. As a county-
town, Wexford possesses the institu-
tions usually found, but none of them
are worth seeing, except the gaol
at the W. end, a fine castellated
building.
One of its most singular -features
is the wooden bridge buUt by
Lemuel Cox, the American bridge
architect; as it stands at present it
consists of 2 causeways projecting
from opposite banks, 650 and 188 ft.
long respectively, the roadway be-
tween being 733 ft. The state of the
bridge - flooring, however, is such,
that the traveller who crosses it by
coach, and sees the boards tilt up as
it passes, becomes very uncertain
as to the probability of getting safe
to the other side : so bad is it indeed
that the Wexford citizens are be-
stirring themselves to build a new
one. " The harbour is of an oblong
shape, formed by the estuary of the
Slaney, extending 8 m. from N. to S.
or parallel with the coast, and 4 m.
wide, comprising an area of 14,000
acres. It is admirably situated for
commerce from its proximity to Eng-
land and being at the entrance of the
Irish Channel ; but these advantages
are not available in consequence of a
bar at the mouth, having only 18 ft.
water at high tides. The quays ex-
tend 1000 yards in length, and there
is a dockyard and patent slip." —
Thorn's * JHrectory.'
Conveyances. — Coaches to Ennis-
corthy and Waterford.
Excursions. —
1. Forth Mountains.
2. Lady's Island.
3. Enniscorthy.
4. Taghmon. (Rte. 28.)
Distances. — Dublin, 79 m. ; Gorey,
26; Arklow, 36; Enniscorthy, 13 J ;
Forth Mountains, 5 ; New Boss, 22 ;
Duncannon, 23 ; BallywiUiam, 28.
[An excursion into the barony of
Forth, which extends S. to the sea-
coast, is replete with interest, partly
from, the number of fortified houses
and towers, of which there are said
to be nearly 60 in an area of 40,000
acres, and partly from the fact that
the barony is inhabited by the de-
scendants of a Welsh colony, some-
what in the same way as the districts
of Castlemartin and Gower on the
opposite Pembrokeshire coast are
inhabited by Flemings. Indeed, it
would be more correctly stated that
the Wexford colonists were de-
scended from old residents in Wales,
rather than Welshmen, as there is
no doubt but that the Norman,
English, and Flemish families who
had gained possessions in South
Wales, were the adventurers who
pushed their fortunes and settled
in Ireland. Many names belonging
to the Principality, such as Carew,
Roche, Scurlock, Barry, &c., are
naturalized in Ireland. The present
inhabitants of Forth and Bargy are
said to be peculiar in their dialect,
habits, and folk-lore.
Quitting Wexford by the S. road
and leaving the Fcoih Mountains to
the rt., the tourist reaches, 4 m.,
Johnstown Castle (Sir T. Esmonde,
Bart.), a beautiful castellated resi-
dence built of Carlow granite and
incorporated with a tower of the old
fortress. The grounds are very orna-
mental and well laid out.
6^ m. Bathmacknee (Capt. Arm-
Ireland.
Boute 24. — Dublin to ArUow.
207
strong), near which, in remarkably
good preservation, is the ancient
fortalice of the same name. About
4 m. to the S. is another castellated
residence, that of Bargy, formerly
the property of the ill-fated Bagenal
Harvey, and now of his descendant
John I^rvey, Esq. It is situated at
the head of Tacumshin Lake, a pill
that runs inland for some little dis-
tance. The coast in this neigh-
bourhood was notorious for the
number of wrecks that annually
took place, before it was lighted as
well as it now is. The Saltee
Islands enjoyed a particularly bad
reputation amongst sailors, as there
are a number of banks and half-
tide rocks extending from thence to
the Tuskar, but they are now pro-
tected by a light-ship showing a
fixed double light. Between Bargy
and Kathmacknee is the ruined ch.
of Mayglass, which possesses some
semicircular-headed arches.
13 m., at the head of Lady's
Island Lake, are the ruins of tiie
same name, erected in 1237 by
Hodolph de Lamporte or Lambert,
and consisting — 1, of a keep, entered
by an arched gateway and con-
nected by side walls with the water
on either side ; 2, a tower adjoining
appears to have been built at a later
date, as it is of limestone, whereas
the former one is of granite ; 3, of
an Augustinian monastery, which,
being dedicated to the Virgin, pro-
bably gave the name to the island.
On the coast to the E. is Bally-
trent House (J. Talbot, Esq.), in
whose grounds is a remarkably
perfect rath, consisting of 2 con-
centric enclosures, the outer one
being 649 yards in circumference.
Some distance out at sea is the
famous Tuskar Rock, on which a
lighthouse was established in 1815.
** It consists of 21 Argand lamps
acting on reflectors, having 7 lamps,
presenting one light every 2 minutes,
while one seven of the 21 presents a
deep red light every 6 minutes — the
term of the revolution. The lights are
105 ft. from the base, and the vane
from highwater mark is 134 ft.**
The district to the W. between
Wexford and Duncannon is de-
scribed in Rte. 28.]
BOUTE 24.
FROM DUBLIN TO RATHDRUM AND
ARKLOW. — TOUR THROUGH WfCK-
LOW.
A tour through Widdow is the
great delight of all Dublin residents,
who are, indeed, fortimate in having
almost at their own doors a succes-
sion of changing scenery, in which
mountain, sea, wood, and river, are
blended together in delicious land-
scapes, from the quietly beautiful to
the strikingly romantic, furnishing
an environ that no other city in the
world can boast.
The direct line from Dublin to
Bray is described in Rte. 23, and the
rly. from Kingstown to Dublin in
Rte. 1. It will therefore be sufficient
if we commence this route from Kings-
town. The rly., which up to this
point has closely hugged the sea-
shore, now runs inland for a short
distance, cutting off the promontory of
Dalkey 8 m., and passing on 1. Bul-
lock's Castle, a tall, square keep,
with Irish stepped battlements,
flanked by a square tiirret at one
angle, and surrounded by a bawn.
A little distance from Sorrento Point,
208
Boute 24. — Dublin to ArJelow.
Ireland.
on which is a terrace of fashionable
residences, is DaJkey Island^ sepa-
rated from the mainland by a sound
900 yards long and 300 wide. Upon
it is a small mined ch., originally
founded for Benedictines. Dalkey,
however, does not found its claims to
distinction upon this, but upon cer-
tain farcical proceedings penodically
enacted at the close of the last cen-
tury, when it was called the Kingdom
of Dalkey, and was the seat of a sin-
gular mock ceremonial, where the so-
called King held his Court amidst
much noisy rejoicing and festivity. He
was dignified with the title of " His
facetious Majesty Stephen the First,
King of Damey, Emperor of Mug-
lins. Prince of the Holy Island of
Magee, Elector of Lambay and Ire-
land's Eye, Defender of his own
Faith and Respecter of all others.
Sovereign of the Illustrious Order
of tiie Lobster and Periwinkle."
Such an absurd burlesque would
scarcely be worth the chronicling, had
not the spirit of the times, together
with the social status of the actors,
infused into it a large amount of
Politics, so much so as to cause the
aily papers to devote a regular co-
lumn to the doings of " the Kingdom
of Dalkey."
Conspicuous on the rt. are the
granite-quarries of Dalkey and Kil-
liney HUl, which rises in bold
outline to the height of 480 ft. The
former of these were worked from
1817 to 1857, and supplied most of
the stone used in the formation of
Kmgstown Harbour. "In general
character the Killiney and Dalkey
granite is rather quartzose, of pale,
clear-gray colour, and is traversed
by numerous veins of eurite. These
frequently assume the magnitude of
thick dykes, one of which to the N.
of the rock called Black Castle, on
the shore of Killiney Bay, measures
40 yds. across. On the southern flank
of Roche's HiU, close to the garden
wall of Killiney Park, is a remarkable
granite dyke traversing the mica
slate." — Geological Survey, This
last-named mica schist is, in fact.
Lower Silurian slate altered firom
the contact with the granite, which
feature can be observed in many
places along the shore of Killiney
Hill. The hill itself is private pto-
perty, but the owner permits visitors
access to enjoy the glorious panorama
from the summit. The botanist will
find on its slopes Asplenium maxi-
mum, Galium erectum, G. saxatile,
and Orithmum maritimum or the
samphire-plant
Near the martello tower stands
" The Druid's Judgment Seat,"
formed of rough granite blocks,
*• which bear many indications of
having been re-arranged at no very
distant period." Mr. Wakeman con-
siders it to be an archseolo^cal for-
gery, founded on a veritable early
remain.
The antiquary should also visit
Balliney ch., one of those ancient and
primitive buildings so characteristic
of early Irish architecture. It is about
the same date as the ch. at Glenda-
lough (p. 216), and consists of a nave
measuring 12^ ft. in breadth, and a
chancel only 9^ ft. The doorway is
in the west gable, and is square-
headed, with slightly inclined sides.
Notice the primitive form of cross
sculptured on the soffit of the lintel.
The height of the circular choir arch
is 6.V ft. The E. window is square-
headed, with inwardly inclined splays.
" The comparatively modem addition
on the northern side of the nave,
which appears to have been erected
as a kind of aisle, is connected with
the ancient ch. by several openings
broken through the N. side waB.
The pointed doorway offers a striking
contrast to that in the W. gable;
and its eastern window differs fiom
that in the chancel, being Isu^er,
and chamfered on the exterior. —
Wakeman, At the summit of Kil-
liney is an obelisk, marking the
spot where a Duke of Dorset was
thrown and killed when hunting.
Ireland.
Boute 24. — Bray,
209
The visitor can, if he prefers, de-
scend on the other side of the hill to
Mount Druid, and, after seeing the
cromlech, catch a troin on the Har-
court Road line.
13J m. Brayt the Brighton of Dublin,
and the sunniest and gayest of water-
ing-places. Hotels : the Royal Breslin,
facing the sea, and the International,
both first class. It is only within
the last few years that Bray has
emerged from the primitive quiet
of the fishing village into the full-
blown gaiety which it now exhibits
— a change partly owing to the exqui-
site scenery of which it is the portal,
and partly to the earnest spirit with
which Mr. Dargan devoted himself to
improving and beautifying a locality
wluch his farseeing eye told him was
so admirably adapted for it. In one
respect, too, he was fortunate, for, as
the ground was new, there was little or
no portion of ancient Bray to be pulled
down ; so that to aU intents and pin*-
poses we may consider it essentially
a place of to-day. The station is close
to the sea, between the two large
hotels of Breslin and the Interna-
tional, both of them estaMshments of
great size, and some pretensions to
architectural beauty. The situation
of the town is very charming, occupy-
ing a broadish basin, and surrounded
on all sides by hills, save on that which
is bounded by the sea. On the N.
are Killiney and Two Rocks ; on the
W. the mountains at the back of En-
niskerry; more to the S. are the
Sugarloaves, with the lofty range of
Douce, which, as seen from Bray Head,
rises directly from the town. From
all these hills wooded shoulders are
thrown out, softening their stem fea-
tures, and insensibly merging into
the well-kept grounds and parks of
the many residences in the neigh-
bourhood. Bray itself contains liUle
to interest the tourist, save a very
pretty old ch. witli a tower at the W.
end, as almost all the other build-
ings are modem. From the gene-
ral loveliness of the place, its accessi-
bility to Kingstown and Dublin, and
its genial and even temperature, it is
much sought after as a place of resi-
dence ; and in consequence many fine
terraces and streets have risen up with
wonderful rapidity. The neighbour-
hood, however, is not so soon ex-
hausted as the town, and affords a
constant succession of pleasant drives
and exclusions.
1. To Bray Head. The southern
road towards Delgany should be taken,
passing 1. Newcourt ; 1 m. the suburb
of Newtown Vevay ; and soon after on
1. the entrance to Bray Head (G.
Putland, Esq.). 2 m. rt. is Kilrud-
dery, a very chamiiing Elizabethan
residence of the Earl of Meath, who
permits visitors to inspect it on Mon-
days and Tuesdays. In the interior
is a fine hall, wainscoted with oak,
with a carved oak ceiling. This
leads to several beautiful apartments,
of which the drawing-room is par-
ticularly worthy of notice. Kilrud-
dery was built after designs by Mor-
rison, the architect of Shelton. The
gardens are worth seeing, and the
views from the grounds, which slope
up towards the Little Sugarloaf,
are exquisite. Opposite Kilruddery
Gate is a road leading up to the
Bray Head, 655 ft., a fine breezy
headland, commanding a noble pano-
rama of the Wicklow HiUs ana the
sea. Should the pedestrian wish
it, he may extend his ramble to the
S., rejoining the turnpike at Wind-
gate ; but the pleasantest way home-
wards is to get on to what is called
the Railway Walk, which offers
some fine scenery of the ravines and
gullies across which the line is
carried. The ramble to Windgate,
and back by the Head, wiU be 6 m.
The geologist will find at the foot of
the Head numbers of specimens of
the Oldhamia antiqua ; this, together
with Howth, being the only known
locality in Ireland.
2. The Glen of the Downs is de-
scribed in the continuation of the
route (p. 212).
210
Boute 24. — Dublin to Arklow,
Ireland.
3. To the Scalp (p. 219), through
Enniskerry, returning by Old Con-
naught, tiie beautiful seat of P.
KiaU, Esq. (now vacant), which, from
its situation, is a conspicuous object
in all Bray views.
4. The Dargle and Powereoourtare
the great lions of the district, and the
picnic rendezvous, par excellence^ of
every Dublin holiday-maker. The
road turns off from the one to Dublin,
and runs through Little Bray, follow-
ing upwards the valley of the Bray
river, locally called the Valley of
Diamonds; it is set off with many
a pretty villa, and begirdled with
woods, over which the distant hills
show their summits. More exten-
sive views are obtained from Lord
Herbert s new road, which fells into
the main road at the pretty new ch.
of Kilbride. On the N. side of the
Cookstown stream is St. Valery, the
picturesque residence of the late
Judge Crampton> the grounds of
which are worth a visit. At Fassaroe
is a well-preserved cross, with a
sculptured representation of Our Sa-
viour. A little farther, on 1., is the
entrance to the Dargle, the road to
Enniskerry keeping straight on by
the Cookstown river. By this en-
trance, however, pedestrians only
are admitted, cars having to keep
along the road and wait for their
occupants at the second gate. The
walks on the northern bank, through
which the visitor is allowed to ramble,
belong to the Powersoourt demesne ;
and those on the opposite side to
Charleville, the property of Lord
Monck. The Dargle, about which so
much has been said and written, is
a deep, thickly-wooded glen, at the
bottom of which flows the Dargle
river, an impetuous mountain-stream;
and in truth it well deserves ad-
miration, for a more lovely dingle
it is difficult to conceive. Neverthe-
less it is a question whether it would
have been the theme of so much ad-
miration were it not for its easy acces-
sibility and its proximity to Dublin ;
for, while confessing its charms, there
are yet many glens containing finer
or more romantic scenery. The chief
points of rendezvous are the Lover's
Leap, "a huge rock, projecting far
from the glen's side, and overlooking
rt. and 1. the still depths of the ra-
vine. Shadowing, and bending away
in a densely-wooded slope, the oj^x)-
site side of the glen rises grandly up-
wards ; while 300 ft. down below us
steals the ever-present river towards
the sea, the blue line of whose distant
horizon rules the topmost branches of
the trees away on our 1." — Powell.
There are also the Moss House and
the View Rock, from whence a good
distant view is gained of Powers-
court, backed up by the lofty ranges
of Kippure. Ifoving exhausted the
beauties of the Dargle, the tourist
emerges from the second, or furthest
gate, into the turnpike-road, between
Dublin and Bathdrum. If a short
excursion only is intended, he can
turn to the rt. to Enniskerry, and
retrace his way back to Bray by the
N. bank of the Cookstown stream;
but, if bent on seeing the water-
fall, he should follow the road to
the 1., running between the woods
of Powersoourt and the grounds of
Tinnahinch (Lady Louisa Grattan),
a plain house, surrounded by dense
woods, which foimds its reputetion on
having been the residence and far
vourite retreat of Henry Grattan, to
whom it was presented by the Irish
Parliament. There is an exquisite
view at Tinnahinch Bridge, where the
Dargle is again crossed, and where the
road ascends, having on 1. Bushy
Park (Rt. Hon. Judge Keogh) and
Ballyomey (Maj. Kenny); and on
rt. Charleville, the seat of Lord
Monck. At the S. end of these de*
mesnes is the Glebe House, 4^ m.,
where a road on rt. turns off to enter
Lord Powerscourt's deer-park, a large
enclosure of some 800 acres, •* of
which the greater part is under
young plantations ; enough, however.
Ireland. Houte 24. — The Dargle — PowerscourU
211
of the old trees remain to carry back
the imagination to what this place
was some years ago, when venerable
oaks Were scattered along the sides of
the glen, and when herds of deer
bounded over the fem-covered sur-
face, or stood motionless on the cliffs
when danger was in the wind." —
Fraser.
It is a charming excursion through
the deer-park to the waterfall, where
the Dargle is precipitated over a rock
300 ft. in height, immediately under
the N.E. side of the Douce Moun-
tain. It is certainly a very fine fell,
though, like every other, dependent for
scenic effect on the volume of water
in the river. From hence an ascent
may be made to the summit of the
Douce, 2384 ft., which, with its com-
peers and neighbours, War Hill,
2250 ft., and Kippure, 2475 ft., are
amongst the loftiest of this northern
chain of Wicklow mountains. The
views, seawards and landwards, are
wonderfully fine, the latter embracing
range after range in Wicklow, and
even in Waterford.
Powerscourt waterfall is usually
the limit of a Bray excursion, but if
the traveller has time he may, with
advantage, follow from the deer-park
the road up the Glencree toLoughbray
(5 m. from the point where the Dargle
is crossed at Valclusa). Here are two
moimtain tarns. Upper and Lower
Lough Bray, occupying deep basins
just under the summit of Kippure,
being 1453 ft. and 1225 ft. respec-
tively above the level of the sea.
Amongst the plants that have their
habitat here are,Isoetes lacustris, Poa
pratensis, and Ldstera cordata. On
the N. bank of the latter lake, which is
much the largest, is a picturesque old
English cottage, built for the late Sir
Philip Crampton by the Duke of
Northumberland; very near which
spot the road M\a into the Great
MUitaiy Hoad, and, winding round
the head of the glen at Glencree Bar-
racks, runs down on the opposite side
to Enniskerry, passing at the ba^
of the grounds^of Powerscourt (Lord
Powerscourt). To see the grounds and
house an order is necessary, to be ob-
tained from the agent at Enniskerry.
The mansion is a plain building,
chiefly remarkable for its size and the
unsurpassable beauty of its situation.
The principal interest internally is the
large saloon, in which George IV. par-
took of a banquet in 1 821 . The whole
of the demesne occupies 26,000 acres,
being the largest and most varied
estate of any in this part of the king-
dom. The botanist will find in the
neighbourhood of Powerscourt and
Dargle — Polypodium phlegopteris,
Aspidium dumetosum ("and on Douce
Mt.), Trichomanes brevisetum, Hy-
menophyllum Tunbridgense, Carex
pendula, 0. strigosa (Dargle), Fes-
tuca calamaria (Dargle), Poa pra-
tensis, Circaea lutetiana, Arenaria
trinervis, Viola palustris; and in
Glencree, Onicus pratensis, Hymeno-
phyUum Wilsoni, If the tourist
intends seeing the waterfeU after the
house, he should leave the park b^
a gate opposite Tinnahinch; but if
he is returning to Bray, by a fine
Grecian gateway very near the little
town oi Enniskerry {Hotel : Shirley's),
femous for its situation in the centre
of a district teeming with beauty.
Nearly opposite the park-gates is a
very pretty Protestant ch., the spire of
whicli is sheathed with copper. For
the pedestrian who wishes to extend
his rambles with greater ease, or for
the angler, Enniskerry is more con-
venient than Bray.
An omnibus runs daily between
the two places. The pedestrian
should not omit to ascend the Great
Sugarloaf, which is perfectly easy,
though steep, and commands a finer
panoramic view than any mountain
in the district, embracing in dear
weather the hills of Wales.
The whole of the neighbourhood of
Bray abounds in pretty villas and
seats. In addition to those already
mentioned are, near the Dublin road,
Wilfort CO. Toole, Esq.), Moatfield
212
^otUe 24. — Dublin to ArMow,
Irelanp.
2). Mackay, Esq.), Old Connaught
ouse, Palermo (Miss Hutchinson),
Cork Abbey (CoL Verner), Ravens-
well, Mount Eden, Jubilee Hall, &c.
Conveyances. — ^Rail to Dublin and
Wicklow; omnibus to Enniskerry
three times a day.
Distances. — Dublin, 12 m. ; Kil-
liney, 4 ; Kingstown, 7 ; Shankill, 2^ ;
the Scalp, 5; KUteman, 6; the
Dargle, 3; Tinnahinch, 3^; Powers-
court, 4; Enniskerry, 3; Glencree,
9; Waterfall, 7; Roundwood, 12| ;
Glendalough and seven churches, 19 ;
Annamoe, 15 ; Lough Bray, 10 ;
Delgany, 5; R^y Head, lA; Glen
of the Downs, 5 ; Devil's Glen, 10 ;
Newtown Mount Kennedy, 9 ; Bath-
drum, 24 ; Wicklow, 16.
Three roads leave Bray for the S. ;
the one nearest the coast runs direct
to Wicklow parallel with the rly. (Rte.
23). The middle one should be fol-
lowed by the tourist to Newtown
Mount Kennedy.
2 1. is HoUybrooh, the seat of Sir
George Hodson, and a favourite show-
place for visitors to Bray. The house
is of Tudor style, and in very good
taste. It replaced an older mansion,
dating firom the 17th century, a fact
to which may be attributed the age
and luxuriance of the shrubs and
evergreens, particularly the ilex and
arbutus. Hollybrook was once the
residence of Robin Adair, so famous
in Irish song. On the opposite side of
the road is Wingfield (H. Darby, Esq.).
The scenery is wonderfully pictu-
resque, as the road passes a defile
between the Great and Little Sugar-
loaf, ' two of the most conspicuous
and characteristic eminences in Wick-
low, the former 1659 ft., and the
latter 1120 ft. Although steep and
very conelike in summit, they are
perfectly accessible, and afford a view
well worth the irouble of ascent.
The Hymenophyllum Wilsoni and
the pretty Potentilla argentea grow
on their sides. At Kifiaurry, it is
said, but on no authority, that Gene-
ral Wolfe was bom.
f.
At the 5 m. the tourist enters a very
charming scene at the Glen of the
Downs, a deep woodland ravine of a
good mile in length, the banks of which
on either side rise to the height of
some 800 ft. At the entrance is
Glenview, the residence of W. Lind-
say, Esq. ; and running parallel with
it on the 1. is Bellevue, the beautiful
park of the La Touche fe-mUy. A
very extensive view is obtained from a
little temple erected on the top of the
bank. At the S. entrance of the
,len [a /oad on 1. leads to Delgany
HoM: Fitzsimon's), from whence
the traveller may return to Bray by
rail].
9 m. Newtown Mount Kennedy
{Hotel: Newell's) is a small town,
remarkable only for the charming
scenery and for the number of hand-
some residences in its neighbourhood
— ^Mount Kennedy House (R. G.
Guninghame, Esq.); Tinnapark (J.
Clarke, Esq.); Glendarragh (T.
Barton, Esq.); Altidore (late Rev.
L. Hepenstall), in the grounds of
which are some well-arranged cas-
cades; Woodstock House (Col. Tot-
tenham).
Conveyances, — Cars to Delgany
station.
Distances. — Rathdrum, 15 m. ;
Devil's Glen, 8 ; Glen of the Downs,
4 ; Kilcoole village, 2 — station, 3.
The next point of interest is at
12 m. the prettily wooded glen of
Dunran, where there is some good
rock-landscape.
15 m. Ashford (Hotel: Ashford")
is a pleasant spot for a short stay,
and the centre of some of the pret-
tiest scenery in Wicklow. It is situ-
ated on the bank of the Vartry river,
wliich, after flowing through the
Devil's Glen, has but a short course
prior to its entering the Murrough of
Wicklow. 1 m. from Ashford to the E.
is Newrath Bridge (Hotel: Hunter's,
good), adjoining which is Rosanna
House, the seat of D. Tighe, Esq., a
former member of whose family lives in
the recollection of the lovers of Irish
Ireland.
Route 24. — DeviVs Glen — Hathdrum,
213
poetry as the authoress of • Psyche *
(Rte. 26). The grounds and house of
Broomfield (F. Wakefield, Esq.) are
worth a visit. But the excursion par
excellence of Ashford is the Devil's
Glen, a very fine and romantic defile of
nearly 2 m. in length, through which
the Vartry flows. It is of a different
nature from that of the Dargle, the
chief characteristic of which is wood ;
while here rock scenery predominates.
Cars are not allowed to drive up, but
have to wait on the road some little
distance from the head of the glen.
Bordering the ravine on either side
are Glenmore Castle, the seat of F.
Synge, Esq., and Ballycurry House
(0. Tottenham, Esq., M.P.); and
immediately at the entrance, ad-
joining the bridge of Nun's Cross, is
the Protestant di. The botanist will
find in the glen Asplenium ceterach.
Between Boundwood and the head
of the glen are the newly constructed
reservoirs of the Dublin Waterworks,
from whence the waters of theVartry
are made to supply the necessities of
the Dublin population. Here is a
storage reservoir of 400 acres, or five
times that of the ill-fated reservoir of
Sheffield. When filled, this bean
wiU hold 2,482,810,483 gallons of
water, being a supply of 12,000,000
gallons daily for 200 days. The em-
bankment is 1600 feet long by 500
wide, the material being puddled
earth faced with granite.'
Distances, — Rathdrum, 10 m. ;
Devils Glen, 1 ; Newrath Bridge, 1 ;
Bathnew, 2^; Wicklow, 4J; New-
town Mount Kennedy, 6; Glenda-
lough,9^; Annamoe,6; Boundwood,
12.
The visitor has choice of two roads,
—one, through Ballinalea to Glenealy
(Ete. 23), a picturesque and prettily-
wooded route; the other, on the N.
side of Carried Mount, 1252 ft., is
more hilly and debolate, until within
2 or 3 mUes of
Raifidrum (a poor Inn), perched
in the most romantic way, like
many a Tyrolese village, on the
steep banks of the Annamoe, which
runs through a very beautifully
wooded ravine. Neither the town
itself nor the accommodation offers
sufficient inducement for the traveller
to stay here ; and he will only bait
his horse or change his car previous
to his excursion to Glendalough or
Arklow, to which latter place he
may, if he choose, proceed by the
rly. (Bte. 23), running between Bray
and Enniscorthy, but by this means
he will lose half the beauty of the
route.
Conveyances. — Bail to Wooden
Bridge, Arklow, Enniscorthy, and
Dublin.
Distances. — Ashford, 10 m. ;
Wooden Bridge, 8 ; Wicklow, 8 ,* Ark-
low, 12 ; Meeting of the Waters, 3 ;
Drumgoff, 7 ; Laragh, 7 ; Seven
Churches, 8 ; Boundwood, 12 ; Anna-
moe, 9i ; Devil's Glen, 11 ; Bray, 25.
The road to Wooden Bridge and
Arklow now follows the high ground
on the rt. bank of the Annamoe,
into the lovely valley of which the
traveller gets frequent peeps. Pass-
ing Avondale ( — Edwards, Esq.) and
Kingston House, the magnificent
situation of Castle Howard (E. Brooke,
Esq.) is the principal object of atten-
tion, together with the exquisite view
of the Vale of Avoca and tiie Meeting
of the Waters, described in Moore's
well-known stanzas.
"The meeting" is at the conflu-
ence of the Avonmore and Avonbeg,
which here unite in their course to
the sea at Arklow. When seen fix>m
above the vale is charming, though
it must be confessed that tourists ofl^n
feel a certain amount of disappoint-
ment in it, a necessary result when
any place or thing has been exagge-
rated ; and were it not for the immor-
tality conferred on Avoca by Ireland's
poet, it would have simply ranked
as one out of the hundreds of pretty
valleys in this district. Moreover the
soft charm about it is rather dispelled
by the new rly. fix)m Bathdrum to
I Gorey, and by the fact that the vale
214
Houte 24. — Dttblin to ArJdow,
Ireij^np.
has become the scene of very consider-
able mining operations. " The metal-
liferous clayslate district occupies but
a small space, being very narrow in
breadth, and not more than 10 m.
long &6m Groghan-Kinshela on the
8. to W. Acton on the N. At va-
rious depths occur beds of what is
known as soft ground, containing one
or more layers of copper pyrites, va-
rying in thickness, and sometimes
acquiring a breadth of several fathoms.
Five of such beds are met with, one
in Connoree, two in the old or upper
mine of Cronbane, one in the new
mine, and one in Tigroney." — Kane,
These 3 mines are on the E. side
of the Avoca, and on the W. are
those of Balljrmurtagh, which have
yielded a great deal of copper. As-
sociated with the copper lodes are
beds of bisulphuret of iron, which for
many years was an actual impedi-
ment and detriment to the work ; but
owing to an exorbitant tariff placed
on the article of sulphur by the Nea-
politan Government, the iron pyrites
became very valuable as an article
from which to extract the pure sul-
phur. "The copper -ore at Bally-
murtagh contains at least 30 per cent,
of sulphur-ore ; and the greater part
of the pyrites workings m the same
mine contain about 2| per cent, of
copper." The presence of the sulphur
is abundantly manifested in the yel-
low colour of the soil and of the
stream. Neither is it unpictiu*esque ;
but at one spot near Ballymurtagh,
where an immense cliff stands boldly
overhanging the road, it produces
effects of great beauty from the rich
colouring of the metallic stains on
the face of the rock.
30 m. at Newbridge is a very pretty
new ch. Continuing down the vale,
and passing 1. Bsdlyarthnr House
(CoL BjiyleyV the tourist arrives at a
second and mr more beautiful meet-
ing of the waters at 33 m. Wooden-
bridge, where there is a comfortable
little hotel.
The valleys of the Aughrim and
the Gold Mines rivers here fall into
that of the Avoca, which turns to the
S.E. to join the sea at Arklow.
[A branch rly. runs up the Au-
ghrim vaDey, which contains some
good scenery in the vicinity of Aughrim
bridge and Rodenagh bridge, where
the two streams of the Ow and Deny
join to form the Aughrim. At the
nead of the valley of the Derry and
surrounded by hills is Tinnahdy, a
neat little town belonging to Lord
Fitzwilliam, whose seat of Coolattin
is about 3 m. to the 8. Adjoining
it, and indeed forming part of the
property, is the wood of 8hillelagh,
famous for having given its name
to the pet weapon of the Irishman,
whose talent for head-brtaking would
at once be destroyed were he de-
prived of his shillelagh. As the
greater portion of the wood was cut
down about 1693 to supply the iron-
works of that period, only a few
plantations are left. Except for the
scenery, Tinnahely offers no induce-
ment for a visit.
The stream of the Gold Mines has
but a short coiu^e from the sides of
Croghan Kinsheela, a mountain that
at one time obtained a large degree
of notoriety from the discovery of gold
in such quantities that it was be-
lieved to be a perfect El Dorado. " It
occurred in massive lumps, and in
small pieces down to the minutest
grain; the gold was found accom-
panied by other metallic substances
dispersed through a kind of stratum,
composed of clay, sand, gravel, and
fragments of rock, and covered by
soil which sometimes attained a very
considerable depth in the bed and
banks of the stream. The total
quantity of gold collected by the
Government workings, in about 2
years, was 945 oz., which was sold
for 3676Z. ; but the cost of the work-
ings and of various trials made in
search of the original deposit of the
gold exceeded the return, and the
operations, having been interrupted,
were not again resimied by Govern-
Ireland.
HoiUe 24. — Military Road,
215
ment. It has been calculated that at
least 10,0002. was paid to the counti-y
people for gold collected before Go-
vernment took possession; the gold
"was associated with magnetic iron-
stone, iron pyrites, brown and red
hsBmatite, manganese, and fragments
of tin-stone in crystals, together with
qnartz." — Kane.
Distances from Wooden Bridge : —
Tinnahely, 12 m. ; Aughrim, 4J;
Bathdrum, 8 ; Arklow, 4, the road to
which place is replete with beauties
of wood and river, passing between
the demesnes of rt. Glenart Castle,
the seat of the Earl of Carysfort, and
1. Shelton Abbey, a beautiM Gothic
mansion of the Earl of Wicklow,
built from designs by Morrison,
"meant to convey to the spectator
the idea of an ancient abbey, changed
after the Beformation, into a baronial
residence." In the interior are a
beautiful hall and saloon, leading
into the cloister gallery, by which
the chief apartments are approached.
There are some good paintings and
a fine library, the greater portion of
which was collected by Lord Chan-
cellor West. Visitors are allowed to
inspect the groimds. Passing rt.
Ballyraine (H. Hodgson, Esq.) and
Lambertown, the tourist arrives at
37 m. Arklow (Rte. 23).]
The tourist who prefers a wild
mountain route instead of the shel-
tered river valleys, may take a cir-
cuitous course from Bathdrum to
the Seven Churches by the Great
Military Bead, joining it at Drum-
goff Barracks, 7 m. This fine work
was completed with a view to open-
ing up the fastnesses of the Wick-
low Mts. during the troublous times
of the rebellion, and thus enabling
large bodies of military and police
to move quickly through the district.
It commences in the hilly country
some 4 m. N. of Tinnahely, and runs
due N. to the Barracks of Agha-
V8knnagh, Drumgo£f, Laragh, and
Glencree, keeping for the whole dis-
tance a solitary mountain course, &t
the height of 1600 or 1700 ft. above
the sea, and but seldom descending
to any of the valleys. Fi-om Glen-
cree it continues over the Killakee
Hills (passing Killakee House, the
residence of Mrs. White, from whence
one of the finest possible views is ob-
tained over the Dublin plain), and
finally ends at Bathfamham. From
Drumgoff a road runs W. to Dunla-
vin : this is a good route from which
to ascend Lugnaquilla, which towers
on the 1. to the height of 3039 ft. ;
the view extends a marvellous dis-
t£uice, especially on the S. into Wex-
ford, Waterford, and Cork.
The return from Bathdrum to
Dublin should be through the western
portion of the co. of Wicklow, following
upwards the stream of the Avonmore ;
the road runs through thick groves
of wood, at a considerable height
above the river, to 3 m. Clara Bridge,
an extremely pretty village at tlie
bottom of the Vale of Avonmore, on
the sides of which rise Trooperstown
Hill, 1408 ft., on rt., and Kirikee, 1559
ft., on 1. Nearly at the head of the
vale, at the entrance of the grounds
of Derrybawn (Mrs. Bookey), the great
military road is joined, 1 m. from
which, at Laragh, a road on 1. turns
sharply off to 8 m. Jordan's Hotel,
a very comfortable and romantic
resting-place in the inamediate vicinity
of the Seven Churches and the Vale
of Glendalough.
Two valleys fall in at this point
from the N.E.— the Vale of Glen-
dasan, a river which has a course of
about 3 m. from Lough Nahanagan,
and the Vale of G lendalough, the uppe r
portion of which is watered by a small
stream, the Glenealo, that descends
from itA rocky fastnesses in the Table
Mt. to fall into the upper and lower
lakes ; the scenery of the upper
lake is of a very grand character.
On the N., Camaderry, "2296 ft.,
and on the S. Lugduff, 2176 ft.,
rise in fine escarpments from the
brink of the water, approaching bo
closely together at the head as scaxce
216
Soute 24. — Dttblin to Arklow,
Ireland.
to leaye a passage for the moun-
tain torrent that feeds the lake. The
lower lake is much smaller, and
the valley is much more open ; but
the presence of the round tower and
the deserted ruins gives it an aspect
of weird melancholy quite indescrib-
able—an aspect very much enhanced
if the clouds are lowering over the
head of the lake,
" whose gloomy shore
Skylark never warbles o'er."
and throwing dark shadows over the
pass. Before exploring any of the
ravines and glens in the neighbour-
hood, the visitor will of course bestow
his attention first of all on the eccle-
siastical ruins of the valley.
The foundation of the city of Glen-
dalough may be ascribed to St. Kevin,
who as early as the 6th cent, founded
a ch. on the S. bank of the upper
lake, from which he subsequently
removed to the opening of the valley.
Even in the 12th cent, the city is
described as having lain waste for 40
years, and being a veritable den of
robbers, "spelunca latronum." The
objects of interest may be divided
into 3 groups, according to their situ-
ation.
Immediately at the back of the
hotel is an enclosure containing the
ruins of the cathedral, Our I^y's
ch., St. Kevin's Uouse or Kitehen,
and the Round Tower. 1. The en-
closure is entered by a magnificent
though terribly dilapidated gateway,
which Dr. Petrie compares to the
Roman-built Newport gate at Lin-
coln. In form it was a square, having
external and internal arches, from
between which rose a tower. Enough
of it remains to show the undressed
blocks of mica slate and the chiselled
granite blocks of the arches and
pilasters. 2. The cathedral is con-
sid^^ to have been erected about the
commencement of the 7th cent., pro-
bably by Gobhan Saer, tiie great archi-
tect of that day ; the original ch. was
55 ft. long, but the chancel appears to
be of later date. It is entered by a
square-headed doorway, in which the
weight upon the lintel is taken (M by
a semicircular arch. The masonry of
the chancel is much less massive than
that in the body of the ch., and more-
over is not bonded like that of the
nave, thus showing its more modem
erection. The E. window was re-
markable for its ornamented character,
possessing a chevron moulding and a
sculptured frieze running on either
side from the spring of the arch. It
is worth notice that the stone of which
this £. window is built is a sort of
oolite not found anywhere in the dis-
trict.
3. The ch. of Our Lady is believed
to have been the first erected in
the lower part of the valley or the
city of Glendalough by St. Kevin,
•*qui ibi duxit vitem eremiticam,**
and was buried here. It possesses a
remarkable doorway, of a style re-
sembling Greek architecture. It is 6 ft.
high, 2 ft. 6 in. wide at the top and
3 it, at the bottom, being formed
of 7 stones of the thickness of the
wall ; the lintel is ornamented on its
soffit with a cross, " saltier wise,'*
somewhat after the fashion of Kil-
liney fp. 208).
4. Tne Round Tower, which stands
at one comer of the enclosure, dose
to the cathedral, is about 110 ft., and
is deficient in the conical cap. It has
a semicircular-headed doorway with-
out any ornament, and ** is constructed
of blodcs of granite, chiselled, though
the wall of the tower generally is
formed of rabble masonry of the mica
slate of the adjacent mountains ; and
in this dicumstanoe it resembles the
doorways of several chs. in the val-
ley." Its probable date is the 7th
cent.
5. The most interesting feature in
the enclosure is the cell of St. Kevin.
The tourist who has visited Kells
(Rte. 16) will at once recognise the
great similarity between St. Columb's
house and St. Kevin's, although the
latter has been to all intente and pur-
Ireland.
Botite 24. — Glendalough.
217
poses changed into a ch. by the sub-
sequent addition of a chancel and bell
turret, neither of which in all proba-
bility belonged to the original build-
ing ; this chancel has been destroyed,
but it will be perceived on close ex-
amination that the walls of the ad-
joining sacristy are not bonded into
those of the main building. ** It will
be observed also that the chancel-arch
is of subsequent formation ; for its
semicircular head is not formed on
the principle of the arch, but by the
cutting away of the horizontally laid
stones of the original wall, in which
operation a portion of the original
window placed in this wall was de-
stroyed, and the remaining portion of
the aperture built up with solid ma-
sonry."— Peiarie. Divested of these
additions, we find that St. Kevin's
house is an oblong building with a
very high-pitched stone roof, an
arched room below, and a small croft
between. A stringcourse runs at the
base of the roof, and is carried along
the base of the end wall. It was en-
tered by a door on the W. side, and
lighted by 2 plain windows in the E.
end, one above the other, and one in
the S. wall ; the door, which is now
blocked up, was square-headed, with
the weight taken off the lintel by a
semicircular arch as in the cathedral
door. Rising firom the W. gable is
the addition of a small rouud-towered
belfiy, 9 ft. high, with a conical roof
and 4 quadrangular apertures fieicing
the cardinal points. The entrance is
from the croft.
The saxjristy was apparently similar
to the chancel, being stone-roofed
and ornamented with a rude string-
course similar to that of the main
building.
It is considered by Dr. Petrie that
these additions took place not long
after the death of St. Kevin, whose
name was held in such reverence
that naturally enough it was sought
to convert his residence into a ch.
The remaining chs. are all at some
little distance off; they are — 6. Trinity
\_Ireland.]
ch., near the road leading from La-
ragh to Glendalough. In the chancel
wall is a'^emicircuCir-headed window,
the arch cut out of a single stone —
also a triangular -headed window;
the chancel arch is semicircular,
and springs from jambs " which
have an inclination corresponding
with the doorways and windows.'*
A round tower was formerly at-
tached to this ch. 7. On the opposite
bank of the river, near Derrybawn,
are the ruins of St. Saviour's, or the
Monastery, which possess more inter-
esting details than any of the others.
The chancel contains a stone seat at
the E. end, and 3 niches in the S.
wall, which probably served for pis-
cina or ambry. The piers only of the
chancel arching are left, and, before
the ch. became so dilapidated, must
have shown some very interesting
and beautiful sculpture. It consisted
of 3 "receding piers with semi-
columns," and the capitals and bases
should be carefully studied for the
sake of the fantastic sculptures of
human heads and animals — a not
uncommon decoration of the 12th
cent, of Irish architecture.* Dr. Led-
wich, whatever his authority may be
worth, considered that all this orna-
mentation was of Danish origin ; but
Dr. Petrie holds that we are to look
for the prototypes in the debased ar-
chitecture of Greece and Rome. Si-
milar sculpture and beauty of detail
existed in the Priest's House, of which
however there is now scarcely any
vestige.
8. The ch. of Reefert, situated on
the S. bank of the upper lake, was
the " clara cella " first founded by St.
Kevin before he moved to the lower
part of the valley. It contains a
square-headed doorway of chiselled
blocks of granite, and near the ch.
stood a sepulchral cross, marking the
spot of the cemetery of the Kings,
where the celebrated King O'Toole
* Similar examples are found at Clon-
macnoise.
218
Boute 24. — Dublin to Arldow,
Irela.ni>.
18 said to be buried. Still further,
near the cliff of Lugduff, are — 10.
the very scanty remains of the oh. of
Teampul na Skellig.
It is a charming woodland walk
along the S. bank of the lakes, and
at the foot of Derrybawn Mountain,
"wliere the Osmunda regalis flou-
rishes. At the back of the inn, which
is situated just between the 2 lakes,
the tourist should ascend Lugduff
brook for a short distance to see the
Pollanass waterfikU : and haying
visited Reefert and Teampul na
Skellig, slionld cross the Causeway
and t^e boat on the upper lake to St.
Kevin's Bed. " This wonder-working
couch is a small cave in the face of a
rock, capable of containing 3 persons
at most, hanging perpendicularly over
the lake ; the approach is by a narrow
path along the steep side of the moun-
tain, at every step of which the
slightest false trip would precipitate
the pedestrian into the \skke below.
After passing the Rubicon of the
Lady's Leap, the landing-place im-
mediately above the cave is soon
reached without difficulty; but the
visitor must descend with caution, his
fiice turned to the rock down which
he climbs, while the guide directs
which way he is to turn, and where to
plant his foot, until at last he reaches
the mouth of the sainted bed." —
Otway. Here it was that St.£evin,
to escape from the
** Eyes of most unholy blue "
of Cathleen, who loved him not wisely
but too well, fixed his h^miVs couch,
fearing an interruption : —
*' * Here at least/ he cahnly said,
• Woman ne'er shall find my bed.*
Ah ! the good saint little knew
What that wily sex can do."
MOOBB.
But she traced him out, and St. Kevin
woke one morning from his sleep to
find her watching his countenance.
He rose, and with a sudden impulse
of madness hurled poor Kathleen into
the lake : —
** Down gazed be freniied <m the tide.
CatMeen ! how comes he lonely?
Why has she left her Kevin's side.
That Uved for Kevin only V
Gebald Gbiffv.
Should the tourist have time^ be
should make an excursion up the
Glendasan valley, and past the Lug-
ganamon lead-mines (which are 3 m.
distant from the 7 ch8.\ to the summit
level at Wicklow Gap, 1569 ft., from.
whence he will obtain very fine
mountain views. The road from this
point continues to Blessington and
the plains of Kildare.
instances of the Hotel — fiwm Bray,
19 m. ; Roundwood, 6 ; Annamoe,
3^ ; Laragh, 1 ; Rathdrum, 8 ; Lug-
gelaw, 11 ; Wicklow Gap, 4 J ; De-
vil's Glen, 8 ; Sally Gap, 13. '
On the return, the road is re-
traced and followed to Laragh.
Passing 1. Laragh House (G. Booth,
Esq.), and winding up a steep and
long hill, the village of Annamoe is
readied, adjoining which is Glenda-
lough, the seat of T. Barton, Esq.
Between 3 and 4 m. to the rt., and
visible &om the road, is the entrance
of the Devil's Glen. The tourist
should visit the reservoir of the
waterworks lately formed for the
supply of the city of Dublin (p. 213).
Boundwood (Hoid: Murphy's), a
prettily situated village on the banks
oi the Vartry. This is a favourite
place with many, the quarters being
comfortable, and the sikiation central
for Glendalough, the Devil's Glen,
and Luggelaw. It is moreover a
good fishing station. In the neigh-
bourhood are Roundwood Lodge and
Boundwood Park (T. Gower, Esq.).
From Roundwood 3 routes are avail-
able : — 1. A direct road to Bray, run-
ning through Galary, skirting the
deer-park of Powerscourt, and cross-
ing the Dargle at Tinnahinch
Bridge (p. 210).
2. A oleak mountain rocul to the
E. of this last, which steers dear of
Powerscourt and Enniskeriy, and
winds round the Great Sugarloaf,
Ireland.
Route 25. — Dublin to Cork.
219
fajlmg into the Bray load near Holly-
brook.
3. A more circuitous route, by turn-
ing off to the 1. at Anna Garter Bridge,
and following the road to Luggelaw.
From Sally Gap, where the nnlitary
road is joined, it is 5 m. to Glencree.
The pedestrian should not leave
Boundwood without visiting Lough
Dan, which he may do either by
proceeding to the Old Bridge, and
thence walking up the Annamoe
river ; or else by turning off from the
Luggelaw road near the Police-
station, and following the Annamoe
down. Lough Dan is a rather long
sheet of water, 685 ft. above the sea,
situated in a hollow between the moun-
tains of Ejiocknacloghole and Slieve-
Buckh; it is fed by the Annamoe
and Inchavore rivers, the former of
which discharges itself at the lower
end of the lake, near the desmesne of
Lake View. Although a characteristic
mountain lake, it does not possess the
stem and more romantic beauties of
Lough Tay, which is some 2 m. to the
N., and occupies a circular corrie
nearly at the head of the glen of the
Annamoe. The cliff scenery here is
very fine, and agreeably contrasts with
the woods and grounds of Luggelaw,
a romantic retreat as far away from
the busy hum of men as any hermit
could wish. *'A monstrous &ce of
regular formation is distinctly traced
in the outline of the rock, looking
gloomily and angrily on the lake
below. The eyebrows, broad and
dilating, are marked by moss and
heath, and the prominent cheeks and
deep-sunk eyes, perfectly formed by
the clefts in the rock." — Wright.
Garex axillaris, Orobanche mcyor,
are to be found near the waterside,
and char is an inhabitant of this
lake as well as that of Glendalough.
It is said by the way that St.
Kevin dwelt at a cell at Luggelaw,
until driven away by the importu-
nities of Kathleen.
From Lough Tay and Luggelaw
the road keeps along the bank of the
Annamoe, and on the S.W. side of
Douce and War Hill, to join the mili-
tary road at SaUy Gap. At the
height of 1700 ft. is the watershed
of the Annamoe and the Liffey, the
source of which last is but a very
short distance from the Gap. f^m
this point the military road runs at
an average elevation of 1700 ft. past
Lough Bray to Glencree.
The route from Enniskerry to
Dublin is carried on the W. flank
of ShankhiU Mountain, through
a wild and singular ravine known as
the Scalp, which appears to have
been rent by some tremendous shodf ,
leaving only just room for the forma-
tion of the highway. Huge masses of
granite are toeaed about and piled up
in picturesque confusion, affording a
strong contrast to the other glens
which the tourist has visited. A
little further on a cromlech may be
visited at Mount Venus, which is 19
ft. in length and 11 in breadth. The
table-stone, like that of Howth, has
been dismoimted.
Passing through the village of
Bath£eumham (Ete. 1) the tourist soon
reaches Dublin.
ROUTE 25.
FROM DUBLIN TO CORK, BY THE
GREAT SOUTHERN AND WESTERN
RAILWAY.
Bather more than half of Lreland
is traversed by the tourist in about 7
hrs. by this line, which in its ap-
pointments and general management
L 2
220
Bovie 25. — Dublin to Cork,
Ireland.
ranks amongst the first in the king-'
dom. It was commenced in 1844,
under the engineerinp: superintend-
ence of Sir John McNeil, and wm
opened for the whole distance to Cork,
165 tb., in 1849. The country through
which it runs exhibits a very feir
specimen of Irish scenery, being for
the most part a vast expanse of rich
grazing land, relieved by groups of
mountains, and occasionally a genu-
ine bog,'as dreary and melancholy as
only an Irish bog can be. The stat.
at Kingsbridge, at the S.W. end of
Dublin, is a fine, though somewhat
florid Corinthian building, consisting
of a central front, flanked on each
side by wings surmounted by clock
towers. The interior is graceful and
convenient, and covers an area of 2^
acres. GUding out of the stat the
traveller catches a glimpse on the rt
of the PhoBnix Park with its con-
spicuous Wellington obelisk, and on
the 1. of the Boyal Hospital of Kil-
mainham, and passes rapidly through
the locomotive establishment at J7»c/t%-
eore, where the cleanly and even tasty
appearance of the buildings and ofiSces
¥?ill attract attention.
2 m. rt. 1 m. is the village of Cha-
pelizod, bordering on the Phoenix
(Rte. 1), and 4 J m. 1. the round
tower of Clondalkin, nearly 1 m. from
the stat. ; but as this forms a fa-
vourite excursion from Dublin it has
been described in Rte. 1. 7 m.
Lucan stat. ; the village of the same
name (Rte. 14) being 1^ m. on rt.
and nearly midway between this and
the Midland Great Western Rly., by
which the visitor may return to
Dublin after inspecting Lucan and
Leixlip.
2 m. 1. of the stat., crossing the
Grand Canal, is Castle Bagot (the
seat of J. Bagot, Esq.). As the
train gains the open country, the
beautifiil ranges of the Dublin
mountains are very conspicuous on
the 1., and for the whole distance
to Rildare form a most charming
background to the landscape. They
may be 'considered as the frontier
belt which guards the lovely county
of Wicklow.
10. Hazdhaich stat. 1| m. rt. is
Celhridge, where dwelt Esther Van-
homrigh, the ill-starred Vanessa of
Swift. Celbridge Abbey (C. Lang-
dale, Es(^.), the place of her residence,
was originally built by Dr. Morley,
Bp. of Clonfert. On the* same side
of the Liffey is St. Wolstans (R.
Cane, Esq.), with its ancient gate-
way, and on the opposite bank is
Castleton, the magnificent seat of
T. ConoUy, Esq., M.P., conspicuous
from its obelisk (Rte. 14).
[2 m. 1. of the stat. is tbe village
of Newcastle, formerly a royal borough
of James I. The ch. has a good E.
window. 4 m. Bathcoole, very pret-
tily »tuated at the foot of Slieve
Thoul, which rises to the height of
1308 ft. About 4 m. to the E. are
the inconsiderable ruins of Kilteel
Castle and ch.]
Before arriving at 13 m. Straffan
stat., the line passes 1. Lyons Castle,
a beautiful seat of Lord Cloncurry.
The house, which consists of a centre
range, flanked by semicircular colon-
nades, is placed in a wooded park at
the foot of Lyons Hill, 631 ft. The
interior contains a fine gallery of
sculpture. Between Lyons and R^th-
coole to S.E. is Athgor, in the
grounds of which is the old keep of
Colmanstown castle. Sti-affan is a
pretty village on the 1. or N. bank of
the river, which here approaches
pretty close to the rly. . In the
neighbourhood are Straffitn House
(H. Barton, Esq.), and Killadoon
(the Earl of Leitrim). 2 m. 1. of
the stat. is Oughterarde, where (on
the sunmiit of a steep eminence) are
ruins of a small ch., the crypt being
used for a burial-place of the Pon-
sonbys of Bishop's Court ; also the
stump of a round tower with a circu-
lar-headed doorway 10 ft. from the
ground.
18 m., near SaUins Stat., the
line crosses the Grand Canal. This
Ireland. Boute 25. — Naaa — Phoul-ar-phooha.
221
work, which, when commenced in
1765, was justly considered as the
finest work of the day, was set on foot
to supply inland navigation to the
towns and districts between Dublin
and the Shannon, and is carried from
the metropohs to a spot called Shan-
non Harbour, near Banagher (Rte.
34). The main line, together with
4 branches and an extension to the
Suck, at Ballinasloe, is 161 m., '*the
sunmiit level, 279 ft. above the sea,
being at Robertstown, 26 m. from
Dubun. The annual tonnage of
merchandize carried on the canal
is 300,000 tons, producing toll to
the amount of 20,00OL a year.*' —
Thorn's Directory. Beyond Sallins
a branch is given off to Naas. [5 m.
rt. the Liffey is crossed by a bridge
of 6 arches at Clam ("Cluain," a
retreat), where a Franciscan abbey,
a portion of which stiU remains, was
founded by Sir Gerald Fitzmaurice
in the 13th centy. A little further
on is the Roman Catholic college of
Clongowes Wood'a fine quadrangular
building, flanked by 4 towers at the
angles.]
On 1. of Sallins stat. 1^ m. is
Palmerstown Uouse, the seat of
Lord ^Naas ; also Puncheston, fa-
mous for its steeplechases. [From
Sallins a car runs daily to Dun-
lavin, passing through 3 m. Nacis,
pronounced Nace, which gives a title
to the family of Mayo, and is a busy
little assize town of 3000 Inhab.,
though not so brisk as in the days of
coaching, when it lay in the high
road for Waterford and Limerick.
{Hotels: Royal; M*Evoy's.) It is
said to have been one of the oldest
towns in Lreland, and the royal
residence of the kings of Lein-
ster, and was in a flourishing state
up to the time of the Pale, pos-
sessing a castle and 3 or 4 aboeys
and monasteries. Of these nothing
now remains, the only antiquity
in the town being a rath where
the states of Leinster held their
assemblies, The Rectory is built on
the site of the castle. ** 1 m. on the
Limerick road is Jigginstone House,
a spacious brick mansion, commenced
by the unfortunate Earl of Strafford,
but never finished, the walls of which
an^ the vaulted cellars, from the
excellent quality of the bricks and
cement, are still in a very perfect
state." — Lewis. After all, the chief
attraction of Naas is the splendid
range of hills which approach near
enough to tempt the pedestrian to a
ramble into North Wicklow and the
source of the Liffey].
In the neighbourhood are Foren-
aghts (Dean Burgh) and Oldtown
House (T. De Burgh, Esq.).
Excursions. —
1. Blessington.
2. Phoul-a-phooka.
[The lover of the picturesque
should not omit to visit the waterfall of
Phoul-a-phooka on the Liffey, which
is 2 m. beyond the little town of Bally-
more Eustace, and 5J to the S. of
Blessington. It is a succession of
magnificent cataracts, by which the
Liffey descends from the hills to the
valley, of 150 ft. in height.
•* Whilst the broad river.
Foaming and hurrying o'er its rugg^ path.
Fell into that immeasurable void,
Scatterii^ its waters to the passing winds."
The middle fiill is the finest ; at its base
is the basin or pool, which ) j as given its
name to the &11, in conjunction with
the Phooka, the Puck of Irish legend.
** The great object of the Phooka is
to obtain a rider, and then he is in
all his most malignant glory. Head-
long he dashes through brier and
brake, through flood and fell, over
mountain, valley, moor, or river
indiscriminately; up or down preci-
pice is alike to him, provided he
gratifies the malevolence that seems
to inspire him. As the * Tinna
Geolane,' orWiU-o'-the-wi8p,helives
but to betray; like the Hanoverian
•Tuckbold,* he deludes the night
wanderer into a bog and leads him
to his destruction in a quagmire or
pit." — HciU. A single-arched bridge
222
Boute 25. — Dublin to Cork,
Ireland.
croeses the stream at the Falls, from
which, as well as from Lord Miltown's
grounds, the best views are to be ob-
tained.]
Didanoei. — Sallins, 3 m.; Bless-
ington, 8; Newbridge, 11; Phoul-
a-phooka, 9.
[The Liffey is crossed at a prettily-
wooded spot, bordered by the de-
mesnes of Harristown (J. La Touche,
Esq.), Newberry (H. M'Clintock,
EsqO, on the N. bank, and Sallymonnt
(0. Koberts, Esq.) on the S. 2 m. rt. is
KilcuUen, a queer rambling village,
** which tumbles down one hill and
struggles up another" on neither
side the river, here crossed by an
ancient bridge. The antiquary will
find an attraction, 2 m. to the S.,
in Kilcullen Old Town, which, pre-
vious to the building of the new
town in 1319, was a strong city forti-
fied by walls and entered by 7 gates.
There are some scanty remains of the
abbey founded for monks of the Strict
Observance in the 15th centy. ; also
part of a round tower and the shaft
of a cross, divided into compart-
ments and sculptured with figures.
A little to the W. is a very large
circular fort, known as Don Ailline.
From the LifFey, at Sallymount, it
is 5 m. to Dunlavin.J
The Grand Canal, or rather the
branch to Naas, is crossed a second
time after leaving Sallins, as is also
the Liffey (which for the next few
miles keeps to the 1. of the line), by
a timber bridge, 270 ft. long.
25^ m. Newbridge stat. The fre-
quent presence on the platform of
bearded and moustached warriors be-
tokens the proximity to the cavalry
barracks, which are about the most
extensive in Ireland, and accommo-
date a large number of men and
horses, pulcullen, 6 m., may be
more conveniently visited from
here than from Sallins, and by keep-
ing on the ri bank of the Liffey,
the antiquary mav inspect the ruins
of the Priory of Great CJonnell, or
Old Oonal, founded m 1202 by
Meyler Fitzhenry, who stocked it
with friars drafted from Llanthony
Abbey. A part of the E. gable and
some mutilated tombs still remain.
In its prosperous times, the priors of
this abbey ranked as Lords of Parlia-
ment, and enjoyed many privileges
unknown to abbeys of poorer means.]
Soon after leaving Newbridge, the
line skirts the Curragh of Kildare,
and the traveller may obtain occa-
sional peeps of the block huts of the
encampment. "The Curragh is a
magnificent undulating down, 6 m.
long and 2 broad ; it lies in a direc-
tion from N.E. to S.W., having the
town of Eildaro at its western ex-
tremity, and crossed by the great
road from Dublin to Limerick ; and
is in &ct an extensive sheepwalk of
above 6000 acres, forming a more
beautiful lawn than the hand of art
ever made. Nothing can exceed the
extreme softness and elasticity of the
turf, which is of a verdure that
charms the eye, and is still farther
set off by the gentle inequality of
the surfkce; the soil is a fine dry
loam on a substratum of limestone.
— Lewis. Geologically speaking, this
fine loam is nothing but drift, about
200 ft. in thickness.
There are but few early remains
in it— and these only of an ancient
road running nearly parallel with
the high road, and a chain of email
raths. It has been the scene of many
an encampment prior to the perma-
nent establishment that occupies it
at present : in 1646 by forces under
General Preston ; in 1783, by volun-
teers ; and in 1804, by 30,000 insur-
gents. At present several regiments
are constantly quartered here, and
the camp prosents the same civilised
means and appliances that exist at
Aldershott. We must not pass the
Curragh without alluding to its
races, which both from its pecu-
liarly springy turf, and the oppor-
tunities afforded to spectators, have
long held the first rank in the esti-
mation of Irish sportsmen. They are
Ireland.
Boute 25. — KUdare.
223
held four tinles a year-^in April,
June, September, and October.
30 m. Kildare (Rte. 26), Kil-
dara, " the ch. of the oaks," an im-
portant junction, whence the line to
Oarlow, Kiliienny, and Waterford is
given off.
The town {Hotel : Railway)
has a venerable age, and con-
tains sufficient to interest the an-
tiquary. As early as the 5th centy.
St. Bridget founded a monastery, of
which Black Hugh, king of Lein-
ster, who had donned the Augus-
tine habit, was abbot The history
of Kildare from its commencement
to the close of the 18th centy. is
nothing but a series of raids, fires, and
devastations, ** usque ad nauseam,"
principally at the hands of Danes
and native Irish. The bishopric, now
united with the archbishopric of
Dublin, dates fh)m the time of St.
Bridget, and was always somewhat
^ needy, owing to the alienation of
estates at various times. The dio-
cese includes the county of Dublin
and the greater part of Kildare,
King's and Queen's Counties. The
town itself is small and poor, and,
were it not for the interesting cluster
of antiquities, would not be wortii
even a passing visit.
These are tolerably close to the
stat., and consist of the abbey, the
choir of which is used as a parochial
ch., and the Round Tower. The
former was cruciform in shape, con-
sisting of nave, choir, and transepts,
with a tower springing from the
intersection — but of this only the
S. and part of the W. wall remains.
The nave is lighted by Early Pointed
windows ; and in the choir is the
vault of the earls of Kildare. Adjoin-
ing the ch. is a stone cell known as the
** Fire-House," where the sacred
fire—
** The blight lamp that shone in Kildare's
holy fane " —
lighted by St. Bridget the foundress, is
said to have burnt without intermis-
sion from the 5th centy. to the 13th,
when it was extinguished by Henry
de Londres, Archbishop of Dublin.
It was subsequently relighted, and
continued so until the general sup-
pression of monasteries : —
" Apad Kildariam occnrrit Ignis Sanctaa Bri-
gidae, quern inextinguibllem vocant ; non qaod
extli^ui non posslt, sed quod tarn solicite
moniales et sanctae muUeres ignem, suppetente
materia, fovent et nutriunt, ut a tempore vir-
ginls per tot annorum curricula semper man-
sit inex.tiD.ctaB."—Giraidtu Canib.
The round tower adjoins the ch.,
and is remarkable for its great height
of 130 ft., the summit being crowned
with a modem and very inapposite
battlement. The chief interest lies
in the doorway, which is 14 ft. from
the ground, and consists of 3 con-
centric arches, adorned with very
beautiful chevron or zigzag mould-
ings, and a diagonal panelling on the
inner arch. From this unusual fea-
ture, the age of this tower has been
set down as of the Anglo Norm,
time; but Dr. Petrie contends that
from the legends of Giraldus Cam-
brensis and others, this tower was
considered to be of great age in the
12th centy., and while allowing the
mouldings to be of Norman character,
he only sees in this fact a proof that
these ornaments are of considerably
anterior date — at all events in Ire-
land— to what they are usually con-
sidered. A number of bracteate coins,
or laminar pieces of silver struck
only on one side, were found under
the floor. As Sperlingrius and others
ascribe these coins to the 12th centy.,
this was held to be a proof of the later
erection of the tower ; but on the other
hand Dr. Petrie proves that minted
money was used in Ireland from a
very remote period — even at the time
of tile introduction of Christianity.
The visitor who is sufficiently in-
terested in tile discussion will find it
at length in Petrie's work on the
* Round Towers,* p. 208.
Near the tower is the castie, erected
by De Vesci in the 13th centy.
In the ch. are the sculptured shaft
of a mutilated ^cross, with some in-
224
Bouie 25. — Dublin to Cork.
Irfxand.
teresting monnments of knights and
ecclesiastics.
To the 8. of the town are scanty
remains of an abbey, founded in the
I3th cen^. by De Vesd for the order
of Grey Friars.
From its open situation upon a ridge
of hills, Kildare commands a wide-
spread prospect, embracing on the
W. a portion of the great central
limestone plain of Ireland, in the
direction of Monasterevan and Port-
arlington,* while to the N. are the
Bed HilU — a small chain, about
7 m. long, of old red sandstone
intervening between Kildare and
Kathangan. The most conspicuous
points are Hill of Allen, in the N.E.,
676 ft. ; Dunmurry Hill, 769 ; and
the Grange, on which is the Chair of
Kildare, 744. But the geological
structure of the Chair itself consists
of a narrow bed of limestone associated
with a protrusion of lower Silurian
shales and grits, with porphyritic
greenstone, from 400 to 1000 ft.
thick; the beds very much tilted
and disturbed, and having suffered
much from denudation prior to the
deposition of the lower carb. lime-
stone. Many Silurian fossils have
been found here, viz., some from
the limestone of the Chair, and others
from the red slates of Dunmurry Hill
— orthoceraa, ilsBnus, phacops, some
gasteropodous shells, and corals.
Distances : — Monasterevan, 6 J m. ;
Kathangan, 6 ; the Chair, 4; the
Camp, 3.
Leaving on 1. the line to Carlow
and Kilkenny, we arrive at (36^ m.)
Monasterevan {Hotel : Droglieda
Arms), a small town of one street,
lying on the banks of the Barrow,
which at this point makes a wide
sweep from the S. to the W. to-
wards Portarlington. The rlwy.
crosses the Grand Canal and also
the river by a fine viaduct 500 ft.
long, constructed of thin bars of mal-
leable iron. A monastery, founded
on the ruins of a still more ancient
house, was established by Dermod
O'Dempsey, king of Ophaley, in the
12th centy. Upon the site of it now
stands Moore Abbey, the Grothic re-
sidence of the Marquis of Drogheda,
whose beautiful woods extend for
some distance on the banks of the
island-covered Barrow.
The entrance-hall is said to have
been the room in which Loftus, Vis-
count Ely, held a court of Chancery
in 1641.
The ch. of Monasterevan is a fine
old building, with a square tower, a
rather unusual featm'e in Irish
modern churches, which almost al-
ways have spires.
Distances. — Portarlington, 5 m. ;
Ballybrittas, 4.
Still through the fiat plain the line
runs westward, keeping parallel with
the canal and Biirrow to 41^ m. Port-
arlington, the point of junction for the
Athlone branch. (JBToteZ; Portarlington
Arms). The town, with its graceftil
spired ch., is some little distance to
the rt. It formerly possessed the
singular appellation of Cootletoodra.
from which reproach it was rescued
by becoming the property of Lord
Arlington, temp. Charles II.. Until
of late years there were a number of
descen(&nts, resident in the town, of
French and Flemish refugees, who
settled here at the beginning of the
16th centy. It is neat and well-
built, and contains 2 churches — the
one generally called the French ch.,
from its having been originally
appropriated for the use of the
refugees. The Barrow here sepa-
rates Queen's from King's County.
Amongst the residences in the neigh-
bourhood of Portarlington are Bar-
rowbank House (W. Humplirevs,
Esq.), Lawnsdown (J. Scott, Es^.),
W(K)dbrook House (E. Chetwooo,
Esq.), and about 5 m. to the S. Emo,
the splendid domain of the Earl of
Portarlington, who takes his title
from this town. The interior of the
mansion is worth seeing, and is re-
markable for its beautifrd fittings and
decorations.
The antiquary should visit Lea
Castle 2 m. to the E., situated
Ireland. Bovie 25. — MountmeHicJc — Tdlamore,
225
between the river and the canal.
In consequence of its central posi-
tion, and its contiguity to the Pale,
Lea was early defended by a strong
fortress erected by De Vesci in
1260, which underwent much rough
treatment between the English lords
and the Irish chiefs. " It was built in
the usual style of the military archi-
tecture of the times, consisting of a
quadrangular building of 3 stories,
flanked by round bastions, of which
but 1 now remains. The outer
entrance, which is still in good
preservation, consisted of a gate
defended by a portcullis, the whole
surrounded by a tower. In the rear
was the inner ballium, in which
was a tennis-court and tilt-yard." —
Wakeman. The last inhabitant of
Lea was a noted horse-stealer of the
name of Dempsey, who converted the
vaults underground into stables, and
carried on a flourishing trade.
Some 4 m. to the S. of Lea on
the road from Monasterevan to
Maryborough is Ballyhrittas, a small
village, the locale of a battle in
Elizabeth's reign between the Earl
of Essex's army and the Irish under
O'Dempsey. The latter were vic-
torious, and cut off so many feathers
from the English helmets, that the
spot was afterwards called *'the
Pass of the Plumes."
Spire Hill is conspicuous near
Portarlington, from an obelisk erected
by Viscount C^low to give employ-
ment to the poor during a season of
scarcity.
I>i8tonce«.— Athlone, 39 m. ; Mary-
borough, 8^ ; Lea, 2 ; Mountmellick,
7^ ; Emo, 5 ; Monasterevan, 5.
ExeursioM.—
1. Lea.
2. Monasterevan.
3. Emo.
Conveyances. — Eail to Dublin,
Cork, and Athlone. Car daily to
IMountmeUick, a small but busy
town, nearly surrounded by the river
Owenas, whence its name Moim-cha-
Meelick,** the green island.*' Quakers
have settled here, and, as they usually
do, have contributed principally to
the prosperity of the place. Near it are
Knightstown (Maj. Garden), Garry-
hinch House (R. Warburton, Esq.),
and Killeen.1
[The branch line to Athlone, con-
necting the Great Southern with the
Midland Great Western, passes for
the greater part of its course through
a very bare and desolate district, a
good portion of it being included in
file famous Bpg of AUen. A few
words respecting the Irish bogs will
not be out of place. Mr. Moore
divides them into red, brown, black,
and mountain bog, the difference of
colour and consistence depending
chiefly on the locality, according as
the substances vary in degrees of
moisture, temperature, and altitude.
Red and brown bog are least valu-
able for fuel, and are supposed to
have been formed on the sites of ex-
tensive lakes or wet morasses, as he
infers from the small quantity of wood
found in it. Sphagnum constitutes
a considerable portion of the sub-
stance of the peat, and the roots and
branches of the phanerogamic plants
form a kind of nramework, and bear
up the cryptogamic species. The
black bog contains most woody mat-
ter, and is believed to have been
formed on the site of ancient forests,
9 m. GeashiU Stat. The little town
of that name lies about 2^m. to rt. and
has some remains of a castle of the
O'Dempseys, who formerly held all
this territory. Geashill Castle is the
seat of T. Trench, Esq.
16 m. Ttdlamore (Pop. 4797) {Motel :
Charleville Arms) is an oasis in the
desert, in the shape of a well-built
thriving country town, containing the
usual civil and municipal buildings,
such as gaol, court-house, &c.
There is not much to see in the
neighbourhood save the very pretty
park of the Earl of Charleville,
which unites all the essentials
for landscape gardening, in wood,
ornamental water, ana a stream
L 3
226
Bouie 25. — Dttblin to Cork.
Ireland.
running through a glen. There are j
several small castles, or rather for- |
tified houses, in the district round
Tullamore, showing that, however un-
prolific the country, the early settlers
thought it worth defending.
The Grand Canal passes through
the town, and a trip may he taken hy
it to the former capital of King s
County, PhiUipstowny 9 m. distant,
and in a still more hoggy situation
than Tullamore. It was formerly the
centre of the district of OflSadey, and
of course possessed a castle, erected
in the 16th centy. by Sir William
Brabazon, Lord Chief Justice of
Ireland.
Excursions. —
1. Phillipstown.
2. Rahin.
8. Tullamore Park.
I>/8tonce«.— Kilbeggan, 7 m. ; Phil-
lipstown, 9 ; Clara, 8.
5 J m. is the Abbey of Rahin, partly
used as the parish ch. It was founded
in the 6th centy. by St. Carthach or
Mochuda, afterwards Bp. of Lismore,
and is remarkable for its archse-
olo^cal details. The visitor should
notice the chancel archway, ^hich
consists of 3 rectangular piers on each
side, rounded at their angles into
semi-columns, and adorned with
capitals elaborately sculptured with
human heads. The original E.
window is gone, but lighting a cham-
ber between the chancel and the
roof is a remarkably beautiful round
window, with ornaments in low relief.
The antiquary should compare the
decorations of the capitals with those
at Tifaiahoe. There are also ruins
of 2 other chs., one of them contain-
ing a doorway with inclined jambs
(indicative of early Irish architecture),
and an arch adorned with the charac-
teristic moulding so like Norman.
24m. Clara is on the banks of the
Barrow, and surrounded by several
nice estates, as Clara House (A. Cox,
Esq.\ Woodfield (J. Fuller, Esq.),
Ballyboughlin, and Belview. The
■oft and pulpy nature of the red
bog was curiously exemplified in
1821 at a spot 2 m. to the N., when
a bog burst its bounds, and flowed
for 1 J m. down the valley, covering
150 acres. A branch rly. runs in
here from Streamstown, a station on
the Midland Great Western.
Passing m. rt. Hall House and
Castle Daly, the line soon arrives at
39 m. Athlone (Rte. 14). Hotd:
Bergin's.^
On leaving Portarlington the travel-
ler will observe that the extensive
plain through which the line has
passed has given place to a ridge of
hills on either side — that on the l.com-
mencing near Lea Castle, and running
nearly due S. These are the Rocl^
Hills, the highest point of which
is CuUenagh (l045 ft.), broadly sepa-
rating the valleys of the Bairow
and the Nore. On the rt are the
Slieve Bloom mountains — a very im-
portant chain, occupying the area
between Maryborou^ Parsonstown,
and Roscrea. The highest points
are Ridge of Capard, 1677 ft. ; Slieve
Bloom, 1691 ft. ; and Ard Erin, 1733
ft At the foot of the former is Bally-
fin, the beautiftd Italian mansion and
grounds of Sir Chas. Coote, Bart., who
purchased it fi-om the family of Pole^
the original possessors.
Following the broad valley thna
indicated, the train arrives at 50| m.
Maryborough {Hotd: Fallen's), the
capital of Queen's County, whic^
although bcMAsting a corporation of
the tune of Elizabeth, locks un-
usually modem (Pop. 2935). It is
neat and well built, and has some
remarkably spacious buildings, such
as the Lunatic Asylum, the joint pro-
perty of Westmeatii, Longford, King's
and Queen's Counties, erected at an
expense of 24,000/. The objects of
antiquity embrace only a bastion
of the old castle ; but the Rock of
Dunamase, 8| m. on the road to
Stradbally, is worth a visit
The summit of this rock, 200 ft.
hi^h, is entirely covered witii the
ruins of a castle, at one time
Ireland,
ItoiUe 25. — Timahoe — DeviVa Bit,
227
the property of Strongbow Earl
of Pembroke, who acquired it
by marriage with the daughter
of Dermod McMurrough, King of
Leinster. Its chief points are a
watch-tower defending the S. W.
and most accessible side ; an outer
and an inner court ; the whole being
surrounded by thick walls, which
were fortified at intervals with towers.
It was eventually destroyed by
Cromwell, and a small tump on the
E. is still known as Cromwell's Lines.
[From the rock it is 2^ m. to
Btradhdily, a pleasant little town on
the Bauteogue, a tributary of the
Nore. It is bounded on either side
by the parks of Stradbally (R. Cosby,
Esq.), Brockley (J. Young, EsqA
and Ballykilcavan (A. Waldi, Esq.j.
The visitor may thence pursue his
journey to Athy (Rte. 26), 8 m.
distant, or else may return to Mary-
borough by a detour to the S., so as to
visit the Round Tower of Timahoe,
containing some unusual and interest-
ing features. It derives its name
Teach-Mochoe from St. Mochoe, who
flourished in the 6th centy. About
80 ft. only remain, fortunately, how-
ever, possessing a very beautiful
doorway, " formed of a hiard silidous
8andst(Hie, and consisting of 2 divi-
sions, separated from each other bv
a deep reveal, and presenting each
a douUe com^und recessed arch,
resting on plam shafts, with flat ca-
pitals."— Fetrie. Notice particularly
the manner in which the floor rises
to each arch by steps, and then study
the decorations of each. The capitals
of the outer arch have human heads,
as have idso the bases, with the
addition of an hourglass. The soffit
of the arch has a pellet and bead
moulding. The second or middle
arch is also decorated with himian
heads, and on the soffit with a dia-
gdnal paneUing of chevron moulding.
The heads on the W. and E. capitals
differ in the way in which the hair is
dressed.
Respecting the antiquity of these
/ decorations. Dr. Petrie remarks ;
"Of these capitals decorated with
human heads we have examples as
old as the 6th centy. in the Syriao
MSS. of the Gospels. They are used
in the earliest examples of Ro-
manesque architecture in the German
chs., of which a beautiful example,
remarkable for its similarity in design
to some of those at Timahoe, is found
at St. Ottmar's chapel at Niimberg,
assigned to the 10th centy." The
archaeologist will recognize the simi-
Imty of the capitals to those at
Rahin.]
Conveyances from Maryborough, —
Rail to Dublin and Cork; car to
Abbeyleix and Durrow.
Excursims.—
1. Rock of Dunamase.
2. Timahoe.
3. Athy.
Distances, — Stradbally, 6 m. ; Ab-
beyleix, 9 ; Timahoe, 7 ; Dunamase,
8^ ; Mountrath, 9|.
60 m. Mowntrath stat., the town
being 2^ m. to rt., and situated on
the Mountrath river, a tributary of
the Nore. 2 m. to the S. is Castle-
ton, on the Nore, which obtained
its name from a fortress garrisoned
by Sir Oliver Norris, son-in-law of
the Earl of Ormond, to curb the
power of the Fitzpatricks. In the
neighbourhood are Westfield Farm
f J. Price, Esq.), and Moorfleld Hpuse
(R. Senior, Esq.).
Passing the planted hill of Knock-
ahaw, which forms part of the estate
of Lisduff (Rt Hon. J. Fitzpatrick),
the line reaches
67 m. BaUyhrophy, from whence
a branch of 22 m. leads off to
Roscrea, Parsonstown and Nenagh
(Rte. 27). Near the stat is Bally-
brophy House.
As the train glides on through
the open plain we come in sight of
the DeviTs Bit (1572) a singular
chain of mountains nsing some 8
or 4 miles to the W. of Templemore,
and exhibiting a very marked gap at
tiie summit Thisisaccomitedforby
228
BofUe 25. — Dublin to Cork.
Ireland.
the fact that the Prince of Darkness,
in a fit of hunger and fatigue, took a
bite at the mountain, and, not find-
ing it to his taste, spat it out again
some miles to the E., where it formed
the rock called nowadays the Bock
of Caahel.
79 m. Templemore {Hotels :
Queen's Arms; Commercial), sup-
posed to have originated, as its
name implies, with the Knights Tem-
plars. It is a pleasant town, and
has thriven well under the auspices
of the Garden family, wjiose resi-
dence, the Priory (Sir John Garden),
is hard by. In the grounds is a
gable end of the old monastic ch., en-
ibred by a round-headed doorway and
lighted by a Gothic 2-light window ;
a£o the remains of a square keep of
the ancient Templar fortress. The
mansion is modem, and the grounds
are very prettily ornamented by a fine
sheet of water, and beujked up in the
distance by the picturesque range of
the DevU's Bit.
In the neighbourhood of the town
are Belleville, Woodville (D.Webb,
Esq.), Lloydsborough (J. Lloyd, Esq . ),
and, under the range of the Devil's
Bit, Bamane, the residence of John
Garden, Esq.
Conveyances. — To Dublin and
Cork by rail.
Distances. — Nenagh, 20 m. ;
Thurles, 8 ; Borrisoleigh, 6 ; Devil's
Bit, 4^.
[^Borrisoleigh, or Two-mile Borris,
is a small town, with a ruined castle
and fort; considering, however, the
immense number of ruins in the
county, it will scarcely repay a visit.
Fishmoyne is the residence of ano-
ther branch of the Garden family.]
81 m. 1. Loughmore, close to the
rly., is the old castellated mansion
of the Purcells, consisting of 2 mas-
sive square towers, connected by an
intermediate dwelling of. the time of
James I., which, together with the
N. tower, would seem to have been
an addition to the remainder. As
the tourist journeys on through
the great limestone plain he ob-
tains beautiful distant views, if the
weather be clear, of Slieve-na-man
and the Gommeragh Mountains in
the W.
A little further, on the same side
of the line, is Brittas Castle, the
modem Norm, mansion of Col. Knox ;
soon after which he arrives at
87 m. Thurles {Hold: Boyton's),
sacred to every Boman Catholic
as the seat of the Archbishopric,
and the spot where the fEunous
Synod was held. It is of no mo-
dem extraction, but was famous as
early as the 10th centy. for a great
battle between the Danes and the
Irish. (Pop. 4866). As the town in-
creased and prospered, a castle
was erected some time about the
12th centy., the keep of which, a
fine old tower, guards the bridge
across the Suir. Another fortress, as-
cribed to the Templars, and part of
an old monastery, existed in the
town; though, as regards ruins, it
is mentioned that within the last
40 or 50 years there were the ruins
of 7 castles in this single parish.
Tliurles abounds in colleges and
schools, maintained by the agency
of the Roman Catholics. The ca-
thedral is a very handsome building,
and has a good organ.
Conveyances. — Gar to Glonmel
daily. To Kilkenny, through Ur-
lingford, daily.
Distances. — Gashel, 12 m. ; Urling-
ford, 11 ; Holycross Abbey, 3^.
[It is a charming drive to Holy-
cross, the road being just sufficiently
elevated to command a view over
a prettily wooded country, with a
background on the S.E. of the Slieve-
naman and Waterford mountains,
and on the N.W. of the Devil's Kt
range. Grossing the rly. a second
time, we approach the Suir as it
runs lazily through its sedgy banks
and arrive at Holycross, the most
venerable abbey in the 8., and per-
haps in all Ireland.
It is beautifully situated amidst a
Ireland.
Boute 25. — Holy cross Abbey,
229
thick grove of wood on the hanks of
the river, which kept the worthy
monks well suppUed with their fa-
vourite diet. "This place was dis-
tinguished as the site of a Cistercian
monastery, founded in honour of the
Holy cross, of which a portion is said
to have been preserved here by
Donogh Carbragh O'Brien, King of
Limerick, who in 1182, endowed it
with lands constituting an earldom,
and conferring the title of Earls of
Holy Cross upon its abbots, who
were barons of Parliament and usu-
ally vicars-general of the Cistercian
order in Ireland." — Lewis,
The abbey however was really
founded by Donald O'Brien, the father
of Donogh Carbragh.
The ruins are very extensive, and
abound in elaborate detail of such
exquisite feature as to deserve very
careful attention. The plan of the
ch. was cruciform, consisting of nave
with aisles, choir, transepts, chapels,
and a tower springing from the junc-
tion of the choir with nave.
The nave is separated from the
N. aisle by round-headed, and from
the S. by pointed arches, and is
lighted by an exquisite 6-light win-
dow. The N. aisle is divided in two
by a round arch, crowned by a sculp-
tured head, and is continued to the
very end of the nave. The S. aisle has
a beautiful window (dose to the S.
transept) blocked up save in the
tipper muUions. The N. transept is
the gem of the ch. ; attached to it are
two chapels on the E., and an aisle
on the W. running parallel with the
nave. One of these chapels possesses
a delicately groined roof and a .3-
light window of different design to
the one in the seconi^ chapel; but
the chief interest lies in a short pas-
sage which runs between, supported
by a double row of -pointed arches
with twisted pillars. The roof of
this little sanctum is also elaborately
groined as though the resources of
the architect had been taxed to the
utmost in decorating it It has been
supposed that this passage was used
for the temporary resting-place of
the bodies of the monks previous to
burial. Leading from the N. transept
is a stone staircase and a deeply re-
cessed doorway entering a room full
of mouldings.
The S. transept is also divided off
into two chapels, each of which con-
tains a piscina and groined roof,
although they have not the mortuary
passage. The windows here again
differ from each other in design,
constituting one of the most singular
features of the abbey. " The choir
arch is not placed as usual beneath
the tower, but 30 ft. in advance of it,
thus making the choir of greater
length by 14 ft. than the nave, which
is but 58 ft. long, the entire length
of the ch. being 130 ft. This pecu-
liarity appears, however," to be an
afterthought and not the design of
the original architect, which was evi-
dently to limit as usual the length of
the choir to the arch in front of the
tower, and the second arch is un-
questionably of more modern con-
struction."— P.
The roof of the steeple tower
is also groined and supported
by graceful pointed arches. The
clioir is lighted like the W. - end
by a 6-light window, the tracery of
which should be particularly noticed.
It contains an elaborate Perp. monu-
ment of the Countess of Desmond.
This was usually considered to have
been erected to Donagh Cabragh
0*Brien, but the style of the tomb
which is about the close of the 14th
century, or Trans. Perp., at once for-
bids the supposition ; and the arms
between the crockets of the arches
are those of the houses of Or-
mond and Desmond. This fact too
will reconcile the anachronism of
the erection of the abbey by the
aforesaid Donald in 1182, whereas
the whole style of the abbey is a
couple of hundred years later. Cou-
pling this with the position of the
tomb, viz., on the il of the high
230
Bouie 25.—DMin to Cork.
Ireland.
altar, the place assigned to the
builder, it would be reasonably as-
sumed that Holy Cross was rebuilt
in the time oi, and very probably by,
the same person to whom the tomb
was erected. A staircase leads from
the N. transept on the roof, and is
protected by a stone balustrade. On
this side of the ch. were the offices
and abbot's residence. The tower
may be ascended by means of this
staircaBe. A large grass - covered
court adjoins the N. usle, and was
entered from without by a gateway
and also from the N. aisle by a Norm,
arch, now blocked.
The visitor will also notice on a
wall outside, the abbey precincts an
inscription and coat of arms. 2} m.
S. of Holycross is the wooded
eminence of Eallough, and at the
foot of it the old tower of ELillough
Castle.
Adjoining the abbey are Holy-
cross House, and, on the opposite bank
of the Suir, Graiguenoe House (C.
Clarke, Esq.).] Before arriving at
Gtx>ldVCross stat. the line passes
the vicinity of a perfect duster
of castles — Milltown, Clonyharp,
Graigue, and Clogher— -all within a
mile of each other. ** The district of
Upper Ossory, which the line now
intersects, appears to have been en-
compassed with a continuous circuit
of these castles, each conununicating
with and commanding those next i^
so as to form a chain of defence
round tiie territory." — WakeTnan,
95 m. Ooold's-Cross stat., from
whence it is a drive of 5 m. to
Ckielid, [passing 1| m. Longfield
House, the residence of Chas. Bian-
ooni, Esq., to whose patient energy
and foresight Ireland is more in-
debted socially than to anv living
being. A short sketch of tne won-
derful manner in which this one
man opened up seven-tenths of the
country to civilization and conmieroe
will be found in Introd., page xliv.
2i m. a very pret^ landscape
opens out at Ardmayle, where the |
Suir is crossed. On the 1. are the
ruins of the castellated residence of
the Butler& It afterwsods passed
into the hands of the Cootes, the last
proprietor having been hanged by
Cromwell on the capture <^ the
castle.
On L is Ardmayle House (B. Price,
Esq.). As the road mounts the high
ground, the singular Book of Oashel,
" the outpouring of the Devil," as far
as the rock is concerned, though the
very casket of sanctity as &r as regards
the buildings on it, appear conspicu-
ously in the foreground.
Cashel itself {Hotel : Corcoran 's)
is a dirty town grouped at the foot
and at one side of &e Bock, which
rises steeply and even precipitously
to the height of about 300 ft. (Pop.
4374.) The objects of interest
are many and deeply interesting —
they embrace: 1. the ecclesiastical
buildings on the Bock; 2. Hore
Abbey below it; and 3. the Domi-
nican Abbey in the town. The city of
Cashel, as it is called by a charter of
Charles I., dates from the early kings
of Munster and the arrival of St
Dedan, who in the time of St. Patrick
founded a ch. here. It was an import-
ant stronghold in tiiose days, and was
fortified 1^ Brian Boroimhe, although
it was not until the 12th oenty. tlmt
Cormac McCarthy, king of Desmond,
built the chapel now known b^ his
name. Henry II. in his Irish mva-
sion received here the homage of
Donald O'Brien, king of Limerick,
the builder of the cathedral. Ed-
ward Bruce also held a parliament
on the Bock. The cathedral, how-
ever, was burnt in 1495 by the fe-
mous Earl of Eildare, who had a
grudge against the Archbishop, and
defended his conduct before the
king on the ground that he would
not nave set fire to it if he had known
the Archbishop was not inside the
building. The seeming candour of
tiiis answer procured from the king
his appointment to be Lord Lieu-
tenant of Ireland. Having gained
Ikeland.
Boute 25. — Cashel — Cathedral,
231
admission into the enclosure at the
top of the Rock, the first object of
interest is the cathedral, which has
no western door, but is entered on
the S. by a pointed doorway and
porch with groined arches. The ch.
is cruciform, with nave, transepts,
choir, and a belfry, supported by
beautiful Early Pointed arches, the
clustered pillars of which are all dis-
similar. Notice the sculpture on the
capitals of the pillars, both at the
entrance and also of a small door-
way on W. The nave is unusually
short, but contains some interest-
ing tombs, one of which is orna-
mented with curious stucco-work,
and another (date 1574) witii a good
trefoil canopy. The 8. transept is
lighted by an E. E. 3-light window,
similar to that in the N., but with
the addition of a rose window, which
has a depression of the middle arch.
The heads of these lights have been
filled up.
There is a series of sculptures in
the N. transept, representing on one
side 6 of the apostles, St. Catherine
and John the Baptist, St. Michael
and St. Patrick, with shields of the
Butler and Racket families ; on the
other St. Bridget, the remaining 5
apostles, and the 4 evangelists typi-
fied by beasts.
On the E. of the transept is a
chapel with a 2-light window under
one dripstone, and a portion of the
original altar in the centre. In
another chapel is the sarcophagus of
King Oormac, a.d. 908, and al^ve it
is a crucifixion, which was discovered
amidst the rubbish of the well.
The chancel is lighted by a large
E. window and some lancets. There
are some singular apertures between
the heads of these windows, differing
in pattern on the N. and S. sides,
while all of them are quatrefoiled on
the outside.
Having examined the ground-
floor of the cathedral we enter
through a very graceful pointed
arch mto Gormac's CSiapel, at once
the best preserved and most curious
structure in the country ; combining
the richest Norm, decoration with
the high stone roof. Amongst the
peculiarities of this structure, are the
absence of an original entrance door*
way on the W. side (the present one
being obviously of later date) ; and its
having both a northern and southern
entrance : but the most remarkable
is a square tower at eacli side of
the termination of the nave at the
junction with the chancel, which
thus gives the ch. a cruciform
plan. These towers are of unequal
height — ^that on the S. side, wnich
wants its roof, being about 55 ft in
height; while the other, including
its pyramidal roof is but 50 ft.
The S. tower is ornamented with 8
projecting belts or bands, the lowest
being but 3 ft. from the ground, and
a projecting parapet, apparently of
later erection. The northern tower
is similarly ornamented with bands,
but exhibits only 6 instead of 8. The
walls of the body of the ch, are
decorated with blank arcades of
semicircular arches, arranged in 2
stories ; resembling very much the
churches sculptured on the marble
fonts in Winchester Cathedral and
in the neighbouring one of East
Meon; and the lowest of these
arcades is carried round the S.
tower. — Petrie. On this same S.
side is a very beautiful blocked
doorway. It is circular headed, con-
taining 5 mouldings of the richest
Norm, style, and showing on the
lintel the sculpture of an animaL
"The N. doorway, which waa ob-
viously the grand entrance, is of
greater size, and is considerably
richer in its decorations. It has 5
separate columns and one double
column, supporting a very elaborate
arch mouldmg, and containing in
the tympanum the sculpture of a
centaur shooting at a lion, as if to
rescue a smaller animal under the
lion's feet." There are also 2 smaller
doors, the S. with an ornamented
232
Moute 25. — DtibUn to Cork.
Ireland.
architrave, and the N. with a chevron
moulding.
Internally the chapel is divided
into chancel and naves, separated by
a magnificent chancel arch, which
causes a singuhvr effect from its not
being quite in the centre. The
roof is composed of semicircular
arches "resting on square ribs,
which spring &om a series of massive
semicolumns set at equal distances
against the walls. The bases of
these semicolumns are on a level
with the capitals of the choir arch,
the abacus of which is continued as
a string-course round the building.
The walls of both nave and chancel,
beneath the string-course, are orna-
mented with a row of semicircular
arches, slightly recessed and enriched
with chevron, billet, and other orna-
ments and mouldings." — Wakeman.
Tliere is this difference, that in the
choir the arches spring from columns,
but in the nave from square pilas-
ters. These wall arcades are all
decorated on their faces or soffits
with zigzag mouldings, and the choir
arch has one of its mouldings com-
posed of heads.
Tlie columns are twisted in the
quadrangular recess which serves
for the altar, and which projects
externally so as to create a third
division. There are also 3 heads
under the string-course occupying
the blanks between the arches of the
arcades. The archsBologist should
carefully study the divers ornaments
and heaids which cover the capitals
both of the doorway and the ar-
cades.
There are two features which
should not be omitted : 1. That the
chapel is not parallel with the cathe-
dral, and that therefore its orientation
differs ; 2. That above the nave and
chancel, between the vaulted roof and
the high stone roof, are apartments
or crofts -that of the chancel being.
6 ft. lower than the one over the
nave. This latter contains a singular
fireplace, with flues passing through
the thickness of the wall. The croft
at the E. end of the chancel is lighted
by an unusual holed window.
The visitor will now ascend
the staircase from the belfry to
the transepts in the thickness of
the wall — the one in the N. leading
to the round tower by a passage
lighted by quatrefoiled windows.
Here we arrive at the defensive por-
tion of this ecclesiastic fortress, which
could only Be entered from the ch. ;
but the doors in the staircase were
protected by holes for the purpose of
throwing molten lead. The most
ancient portion of the building is to
be found in some offices above the
W. end. Underneath is the cellar,
surmounted by the refectory, and
above that again is the dormitory.
The round tower, at the E. angle
of N. transept, built of freestone, is
about 90 ft. high, and 56 ft. round,
and is remarkable for the angular
hesided apertures formed of a single
stone in the upper story.
In the cemetery adjoining the
cathedral is the Cross of Oashel
raised on a rude pedestal, and sculp-
tured on one side with an effigy of
St. Patrick. Nor will the visitor
leave the Rock of Cfishel without
drinking in the exquisite view that
opens out in every quarter, embracing
to the S. the rich scenes of the golden
vale of Tipperary (more beautiful in
its natural than its social features)
backed up by the lofty ranges of the
Galtee mountains, and more to the
W. by Slieve-na-man and the Olonmel
hills. Northward is the country
aroimd Thurles and Holy Cross, with
the valley of the Suir and tlie Devil's
Bit mountains in the distance. W.
the dark masses of the Slieve Phelim
mountains, between Cashel and
Limerick ; while underneath lies the
town grouped around the Rock, the
ruins of Hore Abbey, and many a
tower and ruined ch.
II. — Of a similar date to the Cathe-
dral on the Rock are the last-named
ruins of Grey or Hore Abbey, founded
iRELAm). Boute 25. — Cashd — Gdty Mountains,
233
for Cistercians in 1272 by David
Mac Cd well, Arch, of Cashel, and
endowed with the revenues of the
Benedictines, whom he had expelled
from the Bock.
It is a cross ch. of lancet style,
with some later innovations. The
nave is long, consisting of 5 bays
and a deep respond, and possesses
aisles, though the piers are singu-
larly plain, being perfectly square,
relieved only by a chamfer, and
without any capital or impost mould-
ings. It is lighted by a clerestory
with quatrefoU windows. As at
Holycross, a wall cuts the nave in
two, though for what reason it is
difficult to determine.
The choir is short, and possesses a
piscina and some remains of arcades.
It is lighted by a triple lancet win-
dow, with insertions in the 2 side
ones, the upper portion having been
blocked up. The roof of the inter-
section is groined, though not with
any elaborate detail. On either side
of the choir were two chapels ; only
the arches leading to them exist
on the S. side ; but on the N. are
remains of the chapel, containing a
piscina, and some traces of vaulting.
To the N. of this is another chapel,
roofed with a pointed barrel vault,
and further on a rectangular build-
ing, probably the chapter house.
" Two late windows are inserted at
the E. end one above another,
showing that there must have been
once an upper floor, while two vault-
ing shafts, one at each angle, and
running the whole length, prove that
this was not originally the case.
These innovations seem to suggest
that at the later period portions were
converted into a castle. — C. West.
in. — The Dominican Priory is
another fine old ruinsituated amidst a
nest of back streets in the town. It
has a beautiful E. window of the 13th
centy., which may be seen to better
advantage from the garden of the
Hotel man from any other spot.
Hacket's Abbey, a Franciscan Monas-
tery, is occupied by the modem Ro-
man Catholic ch.
Conveyances from Cashel. — Car to
Goold's Cross.
Distances. — Tipperary, 12 m. ;
Goold's-Cross, 5 ; Holy-Cross, 8| ;
Fethard, 10.]
At 99|m. Dundrum Stat., the line
passes through some very fine and
thick woods, enclosed in the de-
mesne of Dundrum (Visct. Hawar-
den), a handsome Grecian mansion
on &e 1. of the line.
The traveller will have finished
nearly two-thirds of his southward
journey by the time he arrives at
107 m. Limerick Junction, the
" Swindon '* of Ireland, as far as bustle
goes, though not in luxury and ele-
gance. Nevertheless, the hungry
" voyageur " may obtain an excellent
dinner in the quarter of an hour al-
lowed for refreshments. As the
Waterford and Limerick line effects
a junction here, all the trains to
DubUn, Cork, Waterford, and Lime-
rick start together, producing at
stated times a busy scene.
Distances. — Dublin, 107 m. ; Cork,
58; Mallow, 37; Limerick, 22; Wa-
terford, 55 ; Tipperary, 3 ; Clonmel,
28.
As the train continues its south-
emly course, the most conspicuous
object is the Cralty range, which em-
braces some of the highest mountains
in the S. of Ireland. In front, the
long hill of Slieve-na-muck, 1215 ft.,
extends nearly E. and W., cut off by
the Vale of Aherlow from the main
ridge which rises very steeply, with
deep clefts and gulh'es which are
well seen from the rly. They extend
as ^ as Clonmel, and their highest
points are Galtymore 3015 ft., and
Galtybeg, 2703 ft. The former is,
indeed, the highest eminence be-
tween Lugnaquilla in County Wick-
lo.w, and the Killamey mountains in
Kerry. They are formed geologically
of old red sandstone, rising from the
valleys of mountain limestone (R. 30).
To the rt. of the Stat is Bally-
234
Baute 25. — Dublin to Cork.
Ireland.
kisteen Hotiae, a well-planted and
handsome seat of Lord Stanley.
Passing on 1. Moorsfort Honse
(0. Moore, Esq.), we arrive at 117
m. Knocklong, in the vicinity of
which are several ancient remains.
On the hill adjoining the Stat, on L
is the shell of a castle erected by the
ftimily of Hurley. From its position
on Knocklong Hill a remarkably
fine view is obtained.
[A charming excorsion may be
moile to Gkilbally, 6 m. from the
stat, towards the Galtee mountains.
OaXbaUy is a finely-situated village
on the Aherlow, a tributary of the
Suir, mentioned before as cutting off
Slieve-na-muck from the Gkdtees.
This valley, being the only pass into
Tipperary from the N. parts of Cork,
was a constant bone of contention
between rival chieftains, although
the O'Briens and Fitzgeralds held
it " vi et armis '* for more than 300
years. Very near the village is
Moor Abbey t the remains of a Fran-
ciscan abbey, founded in the 13th
centy. by Donagh Carbragh O'Brien.
It is of E. E. date, and is con-
spicuous for the lofty tower rising
from the body of the cb. Following
the course of the Aherlow are some
demesnes finely situated at tbe foot
of the mountains, viz. Riversdale
(H. Massy, Esq.) and Oastlereagh.]
3 m. to the rt. is Hospital^ formerly
a locality of the Knights-Templars,
which afterwards passed by gift of
Queen Eliz. to Sir Valentine Brown,
who erected a fortress called Ken-
mare. The hospital has passed away
and the castle very nearly so, but in
the ch, there is a figure of a knight
in a niche of the chancel. A little
to the E. is Emly^ so far important
that it was the seat of a bishopric
prior to its incorporation with Cashel
in 1568. The see was one of the
oldest in the county, having been
founded by St. Ailbe, or Alibeus, in
the 6th centy. Even before this it
is mentioned by Ptolemy as •*Im-
lagh," one of the 3 powerful towns
in Ireland. In these modem days it
has been principally remarkable for
being tiie locale of a number of fiew;-
tion fights between two parties call-
ing themselves respectively " The
Three-year " and " The Four-year
Olds."
Tipperary may, in the matter of
buil(Ungs, be said to be the land of
decay ; and nowhere will this be more
forcibly brought before the traveller
than at
KUmdlloek (anc. GUI Mocheal-
log) {Inn : Sullivan's), 124 m., where
nearly a. whole town is marked
with the desolation of nakedness.
Although Kilmallock, or the "ch.
by St. Molach," is known to have
existed, and to have been im-
portant, at an early date, it is not
until the reign of Edw. HI. that
we find it received a charter, at
which time it was surrounded en-
tirely by fortifications and entered
by 4 gates— St. John's, Water-gate,
Ivy, and Blossoms-gate respectively.
It would be tedious to recount aU the
sieges that the city underwent. It
is sufficient to state that it was by
order of Cromwell that the fortifica-
tions were destroyed, from which
date the place went to ruin.
Kilmallock possesses sundry fea-
tures over and above the usual de-
fensive remains, as it was the resi-
dence of many of the nobility and
gentry who held their town houses
within its walls, and it is this peculi-
arity which imparts to the whole
place such an aspect of fallen great-
ness. A few of these houses^ dating
from the time of James or Eliza-
beth, still remain.
"The plans are nearly all the
same : they present 2 or more gable
ends to the street, and are divided
into 3 stories. The entrances, by
spacious portals with semicircu-
lar arches, open into small halls,
which communicate with broad pas-
sages that probably contained the
stairs, whence there are doorways
leading to the principal apartmaits.
Ireland.
Route 25. — KUmallock,
235
The windows, of a square form and
small in proportion to the size of the
room, are divided into compartments
by one or more uprights, and some-
times by a cross of stone." — Weld.
The 2 mansions that still remain
belonged to the Earl of Buckingham-
shire and the family of Godsall.
Two of the 4 gateways still exist,
although one is used as a dwelling-
house instead of a gateway, and
through them pass the roads to
Limerick and Cnarleville. The lat-
ter, formerly known as the Blossoms-
gate, and a small portion of the walls,
may be traced connecting the 2 on
the 8. side of the town. The ch. of
Sts. Peter and Paul stands within the
walls, and is partly used as a parish
ch. It consists of nave and S. tran-
sept in ruins, and a choir still used
for service. The former is separated
from an aisle by plain pointed arches
springing from square pillars. The
cnoir is lighted by a 5-light lancet
window. This ch. differs from
most Irish abbey chs. in the arrange-
ment of the tower, which does not
rise from the intersection, but is
placed at the W. of the N. aisle, and is
moreover round and of 2 stories, and
lighted by narrow pointed windows.
It is one of the old Bound Towers,
the upper portion being of later
dftte, probably repaired when the ch.
was built. In the body of the ch. are
monuments of the Fitzgerald, Vernon,
and Kelly families, who flourished
principally in the 17th centy.
A small river runs round Kilmal-
lock on the N. and W. sides, and on
its bank stand the ruins of the
Dominican priory, one of the finest
in Munster, founded in the close
of the 13th centy. by Gilbert,
Lord of Offiiley. A lofty square
tower, supported by extremely narrow
arches, rises from the centre of the
ch., which is cruciform, and pos-
sesses very good details of Trans. E.
Bug, style. "A great part of the
cloister still remains; but it was
never of an ornamental character.
the ambulacrum having been formed
out of timber."
The choir is lighted by a really
magnificent 5-hght E.E. window
of delicate and graceful design. It
contains a canopied mural monu-
ment, in which the moulding of
the heads of the columns should
be noticed. In addition to the E.
window, the choir has 6 Early
Pointed windows on the 8. side.
The nave, of which the 8. wall is
destroyed, is lighted by a quatrefoil
window inserted in a pointed arch.
To the N. of the nave are the do-
mestic offices. The 8. trans, had a
window with tracery (now blocked
up) similar to Holycross. It also
contains a mural monument, the
shafts of which are ornamented with
heads.
The choir contains the broken
tomb of the White Knights, " a title
assumed by a branch of the Fitz-
geralds, or, as they are frequently
called, the Geraldins, and, according
to Camden, originating from tlte grey
hairs of the founder of that line." —
0. Croker,
The fortunes of the Desmond
fiEunily, who owned more land and
possessed more influence in Munster
than any £Eimily before or after them,
are interwoven with the whole history
of Kilmallock, and indeed with that
of the 8. of Ireland, and have been
the subject of many a tale from
the wonderful address and courage,
the hair-breadth escapes, and me
romantic career of many of its
members. Adjoining the- town are
Ashhill Towers, the residence of E.
Eyre Evans, Esq. ; Mount Ooote (C.
Coote, Esq.), and Ardvullen House
(Rev. J. Gabbett), and about 4 m.
distant, near Kilflnnan, is Olanadfay
Castle, the ancient seat of the
Oliver family, but now of Lord
Ashtown. 8ir Eyre Coote, the con-
queror of Hyder Ali, was a native
of Kilmallock; and General Lord
Blakeney (who added Minorca to
the British possessions) was bom at
236
Bouie 26. — Dublin to Cork,
Ireland.
Mount Blakeney, about 2 m. on the
Charleyille road.
Conveyances.-— Car daily to Limer-
iok. Oar to Bruff and KUfinane.
Dutances. — Bruree, 4 m. ; Brufi^ 6;
Charleville, 5. *
[The antiquary should make a
visit from Kilmallock to Lough Gur,
10 m. ; passing through, 6 m., Bruff,
another of the principal towns of
tlie Gerahlins. It is situated on the
banks of a river with the poetical
name of the Morning Star, and pos-
sesses a good E. Eng. ch. with an
octagonal spire. In the neighbour-
hood are Camus (F. Bevan, Esq.), Bag-
, gotstown House (J. Bouchier, Esq.),
and Kilballyowen ( W. O'Grady, Esq.).
10 m. Lough Crur, a pretty lake,
bounded by undulating shores, where,
according to Irish belief, the last of
the Desmonds is doomed to hold his
court under its waters, from which
he emerges at daybreak on the morn-
ing of every 7th year fully armed.
This has to be repeated until the
silver shoes of his steed are worn
out. A similar legend is told at Kil-
lamey of the O'Donoghue. Lough
Gur is about 5 m. round, and, as
it was the centre of the Desmonds*
district, was guarded by 2 castles.
One of them, a massive square
tower, stands upon an island con-
nected with the main land by a
causeway. But by far the most in-
teresting objects of Lough Gur are
a number of early remains and
circles, of which 100 are known to
have existed within the memory of
man. On the W. side are 3 stone
circles, and near a ruined ch. on
the shore is "Edward and Grace's
Bed," an assemblage of rocks which
had once formed a chamber, covered
over with large flags. It was how-
ever destroy^ by treasure seekers
after the death of an old woman
who used to dwell in it.
Near this is a cromlech, resting on
4 supports ; also Carrigalla Fort and
2 singular circular forte of very rude
and large masonry. Many other of
these primitive remains can also be
traced in the neighbourhood of the
lake. The geologist should examine
the limestone hill of Oarrig-na-Nahin
or Mass Bock, which is ftdl of
chasms.]
129 m. at CharlemUe a direct line
diverges to Limerick, saving in the
journey from Cork a distance of
19 m. In comparison with some
other towns in this county, Charle-
ville {Inn: Copley's) is modem,
having been founded by the Earl of
Ossory in 1621, and named outof com-
pliment to the king ; it having been
called before "by the heathenish
name of Rathgogan." The Duke of
Berwick dined here in 1690, and, as
a delicate return for hospitality,
ordered his men to bum it at his
departure.
Close to the town is Sanders Park,
the seat of the Sanders family.
[5 m. to the S.E. is Ardpairick^
with a few remains of an ancient
monastery, said to have been founded
by St Patrick. There are also the
stump of a round tower and a quad-
rangular well, lined with stone.
Sunville is the old residence of the
Gk>dsall family, who possessed one
of the mansions in Kilmallock. About
2 m. to the E. of Ardpatrick is KU-
finane, famed for the big rath out-
side the town.
It is " 130 ft. high, 50 ft. in di-
ameter at the base, and 20 ft at the
summit encircled by 7 earthen
ramparts about 20 ft apart, gradually
diminishing in height irom the inner
to the outermost, which is 10 ft. high
and 2000 ft in circumference." —
Wakeman,
As the rly. continues its course
southward, a considerable range of
mountains approach very closely on
the 1., being in fact an outlying
continuation of the Galtees, " wnicn
are here succeeded by a lower chain,
generally known as the Castle Oliver
Moimtains, that form the striking
boundary of the plain as far as the
village of Kilfinane, whence ita
Ireland.
Boute 25. — BuUevant.
237
southerly limits are oontinned by the
Ballyhoura hills to Mallow." — Fraaer.
Following down the valley of the
Awbeg, and passing 1. Velvetstown
House, we arrive at 137 J m. BuUe-
vant^ at one time famed for eccle-
siastic and now for its military
occupants.
The river Awbeg, which by the
way is known for its fine trout, is
celebrated by Spenser under the
name of the Mullah or Mole : —
** Mulla, the daughter of Old Mole so bri^t.
The nymph whldi of that watercourse
has charge,
That, springing out of Mole, doth run
downright
To Buttevant, where spreadhig forth at
large
It giveth name unto that ancient city
Which Kil-ne-mullah deeped is of old.
Whose cragged mines breed great ruth
and pity
To travellers, whidi it from afar behold."
Spenser.
"This parish was anciently called
Bothon, and is said to have derived
its present name from the exclama-
tion *Boutez en avant* (Push for-
ward), used by David de Barry, its
proprietor, to animate his men in
a contest with the M*Carthys, which
was subsequently adopted as the
family motto of the Earls of Barry-
more, who derived their title of
Viscount from this place.*' — Letme.
The town contains many interest-
ing remains, of which the chief is
the Franciscan abbey, founded, or
as some say restored only, bv David
Oge Barry at the close of tiie 13th
century. It consists of a nave and
choir, the central tower having fallen
about the year 1818. The W. end
is entered by a pointed doorway, and
is lighted by 2-light windows, with
the upper portions blocked up. In
the nave are some good Dec. cano-
pied monuments and a very singular
one with short twisted coliunns and
small pointed arches on the N. wall
close to where the choir arch once
stood. Of this, however, there is
only one column left. The choir is
lighted on the S. by a series of Early
Pointed windows, deeply splayed in-
ternally. The middle one has some
delicate tracery. The E. window of
3 lights is of unusual pattern.
Attached to the S. of the nave is
a beautiful chapel to the Virgin
Mary» containing tombs of tiie
Barrys, Fitzgeralds, and Butlers.
** The chancel being built on a steep
bank of the Awbeg, is raised to the
level of the nave by 3 crypts or
vaults, the middle of which is sup-
ported by a single pillar, so con-
structed as to resemble 4, with
fanciful and well-wrought capitals."
Croker. A portion of adjoining
tower erected by one of the Des-
monds for the protection of the abbey
is incorporated with the modem
Boman Catholic chapel, a handsome
cruciform building with a square
tower rising from the centre.
Buttevant castle is now modern-
ized, and a residence of Lord Done-
raile. It was originally called John's
Castle, and formed a comer building
at an angle of the wall. The view
down the Awbeg, including the
spire of tlie ch., which is within the
grounds, is very charming, and the
tourist should not omit to stroll as
far as the bridge, nearly opposite
which are some ruins of tne old
abbey of Ballybe^.
There is also in the town a square
tower, that formerly belonged to a
castle of the Lombards.
The modem buildings of Butte-
vant are the barracks, which^ will
scarcely interest the visitor.]
Distances. — Mallow, 7 J m. ; Done-
raile, 4^ ; Kilcolman, 6 ; Liscarroll, 7.
[Following the course of the
Awbeg, which eventually falls
into the Blackwater, we arrive at
DoneraHe^ a small pretty town redo^
lent of association with Edmund
Spenser, who had a paternal estate in
the neiprhbourhood, which was pur-
chased from his son by Sir WilUnm
St. Leger, President of Munster in
the reign of Charles I. In Lord
Doneraile's demesne, adjoining the
240
Bonte 26. — Dublin to Waterford,
Ireland.
the Barrow. This bridge bears the
curious name of Crom-a-boo, from
the ancient war-cry of the Fitz-
geralds, and is in itself worth no-
tice. A Uttle distance to the N. of
the town by the river-side is another
square fortress, called Woodstock
Castle, which, although usually
ascribed to the Earl of Pembroke, is
considered, with more probability, to
have been built in the 13th cent, by
an Earl of Kildare, who received the
manor of Woodstock by marriage
with the daughter of O'Moore of
Leix. It is remarkable for the thick-
ness of its walls, its square mul-
lioned windows, and a round-headed
gateway adjoining the tower. For-
merly a monastery existed for
Crouched Friars and another for Do-
minicans, both established in the 13th
cent. There are also the remains of
Preston's Gate leading into the town.
Athy is a well-built Uttle place, and
is, jointiy with Naas, the assize town
of Co. Kildare. Its situation in the
middle of a rich plain, together with
facilities of water and land carriage,
commands for it a large agricultural
business.
A branch of the Grand Canal
from Monasterevan here joins the
Barrow, forming the commence-
ment of the Barrow navigation, by
which water communication is main-
tained between Athy, Carlow, Ba-
genalstown, Borris, New Boss, and
the sea.
Excursions. —
1. Kilberry.
2. Moat of Ardscull.
[1. From Athy to Kilberry, 3 m.
to the N., between the rly. and the
river, and near Lord Downes' seat at
Bert. On this spot 2 strong castles
and an abbey formerly stood, of
the latter of which there are slight
ruins; and on the other side of the
river is Bheban Castle (Righ-ban),
** the House of the King," one of
the fortresses of Richard de St.
Michael (the same who founded the
monastery for Crouched Friars in
Athy). But it is probable that he
only enlarged or rebuilt it, as not
only the name appears to be of
an early date, but it is even men-
tioned by Ptolemy as an inland
town of some note.
2. The Moat of Ardscull, 3| m.
on the road to KUcuUen, is a high
mound (now planted), supposed to
have been raised to commemorate a
desperate battle in the 3rd cent, be-
tween the men of S. Leinster and
those of Munster. About 2 m. to
the E., by a cross-road, is another
historicsal spot, the Bath of MuJlagh-
mast (Mullach-Mastean), *'the Hill
of Decapitation." It was formerly
known as " the Carmen," where, on
16 conical mounds, as many of the
elders of the province of Leinster
held their councils; but it derived
its other name *'in consequence of
the act of some Enghsh adventurers
in the 16th cent., who, being re-
sisted in their encroachments by some
of the Irish chieftains, invited the
latter to a conference on New Years
Day, fell upon them imawares, and
slew them." — Lewis, In consequence
of the anathematization of Carmen
the place of assembly was removed
to the rath at Naas. Visible in the
W. is the tower of Inch Castle, one
of King Johns fortresses, which was
the locale of a severe engagement
in 1642 between the armies of Or-
mond and Mountgarrett.]
Conveyances,— RdSS. to Dublin and
Kilkenny. Car to Baltinglass. Car
to Ballitore.
Distances. — Stradbally, 8 m. ; Car-
low, 11 ; Timahoe Round Tower, 10
(Rte. 25) ; Ardscull, 3J.
48 m. on the W. bank of the
Barrow is Kilmoroney House (Rev.
F. S. Trench).
51 m. Mwgeney Stat., [3} m. on
rt. is Kilkea, an interesting modern-
ised Anglo-Norm, castle, originally
built by De Lacy in 1180, and subse-
quently rebuilt by one of the Fitz-
geralds. It was again added to by
Mr. Caulfield, who held it for a time
Ireland.
Boute 26. — Carlow.
241
previous to its reverting to the hands
of its ancient possessors, the fjBunily
of . Kildare. The interior contains
an oak staircase and some hasso-
relievos on sul)jects connected with
the Kildare family.
A little to the N.E., on the road
to BaUitore, is Moone Abbey (F.
Carroll, Esq.), where another castle
is incorporated with the dwelling-
house ; and Timolin, celebrated for its
monastery, founded in the 7th cent,
by St. Moling. From hence it is
1^ m. to the little Quaker town of
Ballitore].
3 m. rt. Castle Dermot, accord-
ing to some, obtained its name
from St. Diermot, who founded a
monastery in 500, though others be-
lieve it to have been the residence
of tiie Bermots Kings of Leinster.
However that may be, it is certain
that there are some fine remains : —
1. A round tower, slender and tall^
adjoining a mo^ modem ch^, and
said to have been erected in the 9th
cent, by the Abbot jOarpreus.
2. The remains of the Franciscan
monastery founded at the beginning
of the 14th cent, by Thomas, Lord of
Ofl&dey. This must have been a fine
Dec. building. It was crucifoian, the
W. end lighted by 2 lancet windows,
and the N, transept being occupied
by the chapel of me Virgin. Here
is a 4-light window, having the
crown of the arch filled with a large
cinquefoil, and the spandnls orna-
mented with trefoil.
3. Of contemporary date with the
round tower are several sculptured
crosses, of which the only one stand-
ing exhibits a representation of the
Crucifixion in the centre, and some
figures on each aim.
4. A Norm, arch with dogtooth
mouldings, all that is left of a ch.
built by the early English settlers.
Crossing the Lea, where we enter
Co. Carlow, and passing 1. Oak Park,
the ornamental demesne of H. Bruen,
Esq., M.P., the line arrives at
56 m. Carlow (anc. Ceithiorlach)
llrdand,^
(Hotel : Club-house ; tolerable), brisk
and cheerful-looking, containing all
the usual accoinpaniments of a county
and assize town, such as court-
house, gaol, lunatic asylum, in-
firmarv, and the like. (Pop. 8344).
The former is built with a Doric
portico after the model of the Par-
thenon at Athens, and has an
effective-looking front. The Pro-
testant Ch. is remarkable for its lofly
spire, although it is surpassed by the
B. Cath. Cathedral, which has a Lm-
tem tower 151 ft. high springing from
a western front overloaded with florid
ornamentation. In the interior is a
good monument to the memory of Bp.
Doyle by Hogan, an Irish sculptor,
whose studio is at Bome. The sulv
jectrejHresents the effigy of the Bishop,
with laostrate Ireland weeping by
his side. Adjoining the ch. is a
college for B. C. students, a hand-
some building, consisting of a centre
and 2 wings, in a shady and pleasant
park overlooking the river ^aiTow,
which-^
"Though (Jeep, yet clear; though gentle, yet
not dulU
Strong without rage; without overflowing
fuU''—
'flows merrily through the town, and
past the ruins of Carlow Castle,
access to which is obtained through
the kitchen-garden of a grocer close
to the bridge. It is ascribed to
King John, and must have formerly
been a very massive building : it was
apparently rectangular, with drum
towers at each comer; now only
the W. fece of wall with the flank-
ing towers remain, a state of decay
partly owing to the effects of time
and hard usage, it having sustained
3 sieges, one at the hand of Sir
E. Poynings in 1494, another by
the insurgents in 1641, and lastly by
the Bepublican army under Ireton.
Nor was this all, for in 1814 a spe-
culative physician fixed upon the
old fortress as an useful site for a
lunatic asylum, and, applying gim^*
24:2
Boute 26. — Dublin to Waterford, Ireland.
powder with a view to diminish the
thickness of the wall, did it so
effectually as to knock down a good
part of it altogether.
Conveyances. — ^By rail to Kilkenny
and Dublin. Car to Tullow.
Di8ton<««.— Kilkenny, 25 m. ; Athy,
11 ; Castle Comer, 13 ; Killeshin, 3.
[An excursion to this latter place
should not be omitted by the eocle-
fiiologist, who will find in the old
ch. a most unique specimen of carv
ing. The road from Carlow crosses
the Wellington Bridge, connecting
it with the populous suburb of
Grague. Very soon after leaving the
Barrow the road begins to rise as it
approaches the ridge of limestone
hills which begirdle the great Lein-
ster coal-field, the most important
coal-basin in Ireland. At Killeshin
it pierces this girdle, at a spot known
as the "Cut of Killeshin," where for
nearly a mile it is carried through a
p£iss var3ring from 10 to 40 ft. in
depth, and only a few feet wide.
The date of Killeshin Ch. is in all
probability considerably anterior to
the Norm, invasion, although the
Norm, decorations so plentifully la-
vished would appear to make it of
that particular era, but we have
already seen at the round towers of
Kildare and Timahoe (Kte. 25) that
this style is frequently found in Ire-
land very mudi earUer than the
Norm. era. " The 4 concentric arches
which form the doorway of Killeshin
display a great variety of ornamental
de^il, consisting of chevron work,
animals, &c. A pediment surrounds
the external arch, and a window on
the S. side wall is canopied by a
broad band ascendhig and converg-
ing in straight lines." — Wcikeman.
Round the abacus an Irish in-
scription formerly extended, but this
has been nearly obliterated by time,
and the zealous efforts of a resident
who, we are credibly informed, de-
voted a good deal of labour towards
destroying it. The visitor should
particularly notice the heads on the
capitals, which, in the arrangement
of the hair, resemble those at Tima-
hoe. There is also a very ancient
font in the graveyard, of a bulbous
form, with the base cut into an
octagon.
Continuing towards Castlecomer,
the road at length attains the siunmit
of the table-&nd that forms the
Leinster coal-field. The average
height of the E. side is about
1000 ft., and the highest point is a
little to the S. of this at Clogrenan,
from whence the views over the
Wicklow Mountains are extremely
fine, Lugnaquilla occupying a pro-
minent place in the centre. The
valley of the Barrow consists of the
calp or middle limestone measures
resting on the granite without any
old red or Silurian intervening. Over-
Ijring the limestone, at a height of
about 250 ft. above the sea, ar6
the coal-measures, which form, there-
fore, the greater portion of thia
ridge of hills. Their geology is ex-
plained more at length in Introd.
(p. xxvi), altliough it may be briefly
stated here that the general section
of the Castlecomer fiields shows a
series of 6 beds of coal, altogetl.er
occupjdng a thickness of 1850 ft.
The most interesting colliery for
the fossil collector is Bilboa, about
2 m. W. of Clogiirenan. Here, in ad-
dition to many typical coal-ferns and
sigillaria, have been found two new
Crustacea related to the Limulus, or
King crab, and named Bellinurus
regius and B. arcuatus.
11 ni. Castlecomer is a small
colliery town, situated on the river
Dinin, and on the W. side of the
basin; and contains nothing of in-
terest, except a new Roman Catholic
chapel of good design.]
The remainder of the line to Kil-
kenny belongs to the Irish South
Eastern Co., but is worked by the
Great Southern and Western Co.»
who receive 5000Z. per annum far
Ireland.
Movie 26. — Old LeighUn — Borris,
243
80 doing. Crossing the Burreen
river, we still follow the valley of the
•* goodly Barow," in view of the hills
of the Castlecomer coal-basin, and
of the demesne of Clogrenan (H.
Kochfort, Esq.), while to the S.E.
glimpses are caught of that noble
range of mountains between Bage-
nalstown and Enniscorthy, in which
Mounts Leinster and Blackstairs are
the most prominent points.
60 m. Milford stat. In the village
by the banks of. the river is a perfect
colony of flour-mills, which, together
with ililford House, belong to J. Alex-
ander, Esq.
64 m. on rt. 1 m. is Leighlin-hridge
(anc. Lleith-ghlionn), divided into 2
portions by the Barrow, which is crossed
by a bridge of 9 arches, built by Maurice
Jakis, a canon of Kildare, and in his
day a famous bridge-architect, by
whom those at Kilcullen and St.
Wulstan's were erected. For the
protection of the monastery which
then existed, the fortress of Black
Castle was built on the E. bank of
the river by John de Claville, in the
12th cent.
From the rem&ins still left it would
have appeared to have been construct-
ed in the usual Anglo-Norman style
of a quadrangle. The tower at one
of the angles and a portion of sur-
rounding wall are yet visible. An old
building at the S. end of the W. wall
is supposed to have formed part of the
monastery, which, by the way, after
the Dissolution was converted into a
fort.
Stewart Lodge is the residence of
the family of Stewart, the proprietors
of the town.
[The village of Old LeighUn, 1 J m.
W., was the seat of a flourishing mo-
nastery in the 7th cent., containing, at
the time of the rule of St. Laserius,
no less than 1500 souls. It is now a
portion of the diocese of Ossory and
Ferns, which is the smallest in the
province of Dublin.
The cathedral is a very plain build-
ing, consisting of nave and choir, the
latter rebuilt by Bishop Saunders in
1527. In the interior are some monu-
ments of the time of the 16th cent.]
66 m. Bagenahtown, with its grace^
ful spire looks very pretty as we ap-
proach it, but the town contains
nothing whatever to interest the vi-
sitor, being, in fact, quite a modem
place. It is rather an important junc-
tion 'of the Irish South-Eastern and
the Wexford lines. The latter rly. is
only at present completed to Bally-
william, 5 m. from New Boss, and it
is extremely doubtful whether it will
ever get farther, imtil the monetary
prospects of the company are a little
brighter.
2 m. W. Qre the ruins of 3ally-
moon Castle, the walls of which
form a large quadrangle formerly
surrounded by.a moat. On the N.
and S. are 2 square towers of great
strength, the average thickness of
the walls being not less than 8 ft.
It is probably one of the earliest
Anglo-Norman fortresscB. [To Bal-
lywillif^m the line runs down the
vale of the Barrow, passing on rt.
the ruins of Ballyloughan, a fortress
of the Kavanaghs, whose district we
are now entering. In form it is a
square, entered by a pointed gate-
way flanked by drum towers on
leither side.
8 m. Borris, an extremely pretty
village, shaded by the woods of Bor-
ris House, the beautiful residence of
Arthur Kavanagh, Esq., the lineal re-
presentative of the MacMurroughs,
the ancient line of the Kings of
Leinster, ** Donald Kavaragh having
been a natural son of MacMurrough,
last King of Leinster, whose name
and authority he subsequently as-
sumed." The neighbourhood is very
picturesque, and embraces fine views
of Mount Leinster and ^Slackstairs,
which lie close to the rly. on the
left.
21 m. Ballywilliam, the present
terminus of the line (Rte. 28). From
hence to New Ross it is 5 m.jj
From Bagenalstown the mlkenny
M 2
244
Haute 26. — Dublin to Waterford.
Ireland.
line turns off to the S.W., crossing
the Barrow, and passing rt Shankill
Castle (J. Aylward. Esq,). Goo4
views of Mt. Leinster, Blackstairs,
and Mt Brandon aocoi^pany us on
thel.
. 74 m. Gowran stat. Adjoining the
village 1 m. rt is Growran Castle^ a
seat of Lord Glifden.
At 78 m. a junction is effected with
the Waterford line, and the 2 rlys.
enter side by side the remarkable old
city of Kilkenny (anc. Cill-chain-
nigh) (Rto. 27) {Hotels: Club-house,
good ; Imperial), which, in interest-
ing remains, associations, and situa-
tion, is surpassed by very few cities
in the kingdom. (Pop, 14.174).
In the 12th cent. Strongbow made
it his head-quarters, although he was
temporarily dispossessed of it by Do-
nald O'Brien, King of Thomond ; but
towards the end of the cent, the fomjer
wassi^oceededbyWilliamle ]VJ[areschal,
who built the castle^ and established
a government over one portion of the
town, the other part (still called Irish-
town) being under the control of the
Bishop of Ossory. Gilbert de Clare,
Earl of Gloucester, by marriage with
Le Mareschal's daughter, obtained
the CO. of Kilkenny, which passed
again by marriage to Hugh le Spen-
cer, from whom it was purchased by
James Butler, 3rd Earl of Ormonde.
Thus it was that the great family
of Oononde became possessed of ELil-
kenny.
Several Parliaments have been held
here at different times— the first in
1^94, the last in 1536 ; and it played
a notorious part in the parliamentary
war, when the garrison, having suf-
fered terribly from the plague, was
obliged to surrender the city to Crom-
well.
Its situation is charming —
*» The stubbonie Newre, whose watjBre gray.
By fair Ejlkenoy and Rosseponte boord,"
runs through the town fix)m N. to 8.,
dividing it into 2 unequal portions,
of which the W. contains the castle
and all the principal streets.
The cathedral is in Irishtown,
which is separated from the muin
portion by a little stream called the
JBreagh. Two bridges cross the Nore
— the one with a handsome balustrade
is called St, John's Bridge, and from
it is obtained a very beautiful view of
the river front of the castle. Green
Bridge connects Irishtown with the
opposite bank.
The castle occupies an elevated site
overlooking the Nore, and though
originally built by Strongbow, and
added to by Le Mareschal, has since
then been so repeatedly cdtered and
added to, that only 2 or 3 of the ori-
ginal towers are left. The latest im-
Erovements by the present Marquis
ave in effect amounted to a rebuild-
ing, and as it now stands it is a fine
baronial building, forming two sides
of a quadrangle. The grounds are
well laid out, but are limited iu
space. The interior contains some
splendid suites of rooms, a picture-
gallery full of family portraits of the
Butlers, the original picture of the
family of Charles I., by Vandyke,
and some* interesting tapestry, t'..e
manufacture of which was intr..-
duced into Kilkenny in the iGth
cent, by Piers Earl of Ormond,
For thig purpose he brought seve-
ral worfanen from Flanders ; but fur-
ther than supplying the wants of the
castle, nothing of any permanence was
done.
The present building is from the
designs of Mr. Robertson, of Kil-
kenny. There is a very pleasant
walk along the banks of the Nor©
immediately under the castle.
The cathedral of St. Canice, in
Irishtown, is the gem of Kilkenny an-
tiquities. Although not situated in the
best part of tlie town, it is on such,
high ground, and so shaded by trees,
as to be in no way influenced by it ;
and, with the exception of Armagli,
there is no cathedral in Ireland so
well kept. Nor is this all, for the
close proximity of a lofty round tower
imparts the effect of additional au-
Ireland.
Boute 26. — Kilkenny,
245
tiquity to the whole building, and
involuntarily carries back the mind to
tlie early ecclesiastical days of the 6th
and 7th centuries.
The date of St. Canice, however, is
precisely fixed at 1180, the founda-
tions'having been laid in that year by
Felix O'Dullamy, Bishop of Ossory.
He built the choir, the remainder of
tlie cli. not being completed till 100
years after. Subsequently Bishop
Ledred beautified it, and added a
magnificent stained glas* E. window,
wliich was not likely to escape the
sacrilegious attention of Cromwell's
soldiers.
Bishop Pococke, in the last cent.,
restored the cathedral to something
like its pristine beauty, replacing the
monuments as they were formerly,
and fillmg a window over the w. door
with some of the stained glass from
the old E. window. It is said that
the Pope's Nuncio thought so highly
of it that he offered 700?. for it ; but
this, though a large sum for those
days, when eoclesiology was in abey-
ance, was refused^
It is a cruciform ch., fifom the centre
of which arises a very low and mas-
sive tower. Its length from E. to W.
is 226 ft., and the breadth of the
transepts 123 ft. Externally the most
noticeable things are the tower, tlie
b.ittlement with which the walls of
tlie clerestory and tlie transepts are
finished, and the quatrefod win-
dows by which the former is lighted^
Notice also the S. porch, and a re-
markably beautiful w. door, with 2
trefoil-headed compartments, the
crown of the arch being occupied by
a quatrefoil. Immediately above it
are 3 singular quatrefoil windows at
the base of the B. window.
Internally, the nave is separated
from the side aisles by 5 clustered
columns supporting pointed arches on
each side.
" The tower, which is 37 ft. square,
is sustained by 4 massive columns,
and its floor is supported by groins
springing from the columns as from a
single point, spreading out in many
strings or beads until they all meet in
the centre, forming a very strong and
beautiful arch." This arch was buUt
by Bishop Hacket, in the 15th cent.
The transepts are lighted by E. E.
windows, and both of them have
chapels att£U!hed. The K. trans, is
the parish ch., and contains the chair
of St. Kieran, who is said to have pre-
ceded St. Palrick by 30 years. There
is also a fine E. Eng. W. window, be^
neath which, and over the door, is a
double trefoil-headed recess tinder a
pointed arch.
The worst part of the cathedral id
the choir, which is disfigured by a
trashy cornice.
Amongst the tombs are that of
Bishop David; Bishop Walsh, as-
sassinated by one James DoUond, who
stabbed the prelate in the heart with
a skein ; Bishop Pococke, whoBe
pride was ever to adorn the cathedral
and to do good to Ihe town; Petef
Butler, Earl of Ormonde, and Margaret
his wife, temp. 1539 ; and JohnGrace;
Baron of Courtstown, 1568.
Adjoining the S. transept is the
round tower, 108 ft. high, and 47 in
circumference at the base. The en-
trance faces the S., and is about 8 ft.
from the ground. It has some fea-
tures unlike the general arrangement
of the round towers, one of which ia
the width of the windows.
There are 5 square openings, placed
obliquely between the door and sum-
mit, in addition to 6 windows at the
summit, the number usually being
limits to 4. " The circumference at
top is exactly filled by an arch which,
to the eye beneath, presents the ap-
pearance of a large millstone." The
antiquary who wishes to study St.
Canice Inore fully should consult
tlie exhaustive treatise on it by the
Rev. Dr. Graves and Mr. Prim.
Not far iVom the cathedral stands
the ruins of the Franciscan monastery,
part of which is used as a brewery,
the other part as a tennis-court. It
still possesses a very delicate 7-light
246
BoiUe 26. — Dublin to Waterford.
Ireland.
window, and a graceful tower resting
on pained arches.
Before leaving Irislitown the visitor
should inspect the Dominican or
Black Abb jy, which is now used as a
R. Catholic chapel. This also is a
Dec. building, cruciform, with a cen-
tral tower, finished off with gra-
duated battlements. The E. window
is of 5 lights, of remarkably beautiful
design, as are also the windows of
the choir on the N. side.
The parish ch. of St. John, on the
E. bank of the Nore, was formerly
the liospital of St John, and founded
by William Earl of Pembroke in
1220. Agreeably to the law of mu-
tations which appears to govern Kil-
kenny ecclesiastical ruins, St. John's
was tinned into a barrack betbre being
ogain appropriated to its rightful
use. It was noted for the extreme
number and beauty of its windows,
which obtained for it the name of
tlie Lantern of Ireland. Some of
these windows are blocked, though
their mouldings are visible exter-
nally. The choir is still in ruins.
Notice the machicolations under the
battlements of the tower, an unusual
feature in Irish chs.
St. Mary's ch. should be visited
for the sake of the monument to Sir
Uichard Shee, temp. 1608, with its
10 sculptured figures at the base.
There is also one to his brother, -
Elias Shee, of whom Holinshed wrote
that he was "a pleasant-conceited
companion, full of mirth, without
gall."
For modem ecclesiastical build-
ings the tourist shotdd inspect the
new R. Catholic chapel, which, with
its noble tower of gray limestone,
is a most conspicuous feature in aU
views of the city. It is by far the
finest and best designed building of
the kind in IreLand, being a cruci-
form ch. with a lofty apse. All the
details are worked out with a taste
which the architects of R. Catholic
chapels seldom show in this country.
The house in which the Confederate
Catholics held a parliament in 1642,
and where the old oak table and chair
of the Speaker were for a long time
preserved, is now unfortunately pulled
down.
The Court-house, which has a
singular cupola like a lightliouse, is
stiU called "Grace's Old Castie."
from its standing on the site of an
old castle built by Grace, or Le Gras,
whose tomb is in the cathedraL
Kilkenny bears an honourable name
in the annals of education, the insti-
tutions for which are numerous and
good. First and foremost is the col-
fege originally founded by Pierce
Butler, Earl of Ormonde, and subse-
quently made a royal college by King
James. Swift, Congreve, ana Far-
quhar received their education here,
and it has always taken rank amongst
the most celebiuted grammar-schoolB
of Ireland.
The Roman Catholic College, near
the Glonmel road, is a modem Gothic
building, and is dedicated to St.
Kyran.
In addition to these, there are gaol,
infirmary, lunatic ^ asylum, alms-
houses, and the usual buildings be-
longing to a county town. Owing to
the neighbouring geological forma-
tion being composed almost entirely
of carboiuferous limestone, Kilkenny
has been spoken of as paved with
marUe. Additional advantages are
perpetuated in the old couplet —
" Fire without smoke, air without fog.
Water without mud, land without bog."
The former excellency is to be attri-
tmtod to the general use of the an-
thracite or stone coal, which emits
very little smoke, and is raised from
the Castlecomer coal-field (p. 242),
though, notwithstanding its virtues,
Kilkenny coal is not so much patron-
ized as that from Newport in S. Wales.
Taking it altogether, it is undeniable
that Kilkenny is one of the plea-
santest cities in the kingdom, and
will well repay a lengthened ac-
quaintance. *
Ireland.
Boute 26. — Callan — Tullaroan.
247
Conveyances. --"Roil to Dublin and
Waterford. Daily cars to Castlecomer,
Durrow, Thurles, Uriingford, Callan,
Ballyragget.
Excursions. —
1. Dunmore and Freshford.
2. Jerpoint and Thomastown.
3. Callan, Kells, and Kilree.
Distances. — Dublin, 81 m. ; Carlow,
25 ; Thomastown, 11 ; Waterford,
31 ; Dunmore, 2 J ; .Callan, 10 ; Gow-
ran, 7 ; Uriingford, 18 ; Bennett's
Bridge, 6 ; Freshford, 9.
The banks of the Nore are very
pleasant and picturesque, particularly
to the N. of the town in the direction
of Dunmore, where there is a cave in
the limestone that is worth a visit.
It is of no great length, but ex-
pands into a large chamber known
by the name of the Market Cross. A.
very accurate description is given
by Bahim, in his novel " Crohore of
the Billhook." Near the cave is Dun-
more House, one of the Marquis of
Ormonde's seats. Abo^t a mile
higher up the Nore is Threecastles
House (J. Bull, Esq.), where the
Dinin river flows in, and a little
to the N. is Jenkinstown Park, the
seat of G. L. Bryan, Esq., and the
Goodwood of Ireland, as far as racing
is concerned, the Jenkinstown meet-
ijig being considered the most select
of Irish fixtures.
4 m. from Kilkenny, nearly insu-
lated by the Nore, is Inchmore
Castle, a massive square keep with
a bartizan-tower attached to a large
gable mansion of the time of James I.
It was erected by Robert Grace,
Baron of Courtown.
The following residences are in the
neighbourhood of Kilkenny, viz.,
Kilcreen (E. Smithwick, Esq.), Castle
Blunden (Sir J. Blunden, Bart.),
Bonnettstown House (W. Blunden,
Esq.), Newtown (J, Greene, Esq.),
Castle Bamford.
[10 m. from Kilkenny is Callan,
formerly a walled town of consider-
able importance, though now the
only traces that it possesses are in the
niins of the Friary, founded in the
15th cent, by Sir Jas. Butler. It is
a long aisled ch. of Dec. style, with
a tower rising from the centre. The
choir is now occupied by the parish
ch. The founder is supposed to
have been interred near the E. win-
dow of the aisle. The remains of
the castle also overlook the King's
River. Close to the town is West
Court; and between Kilkenny and
Callan are Desart (The Earl of
Desart) and Farmley (W. Flood.
Esq.). Some 7 m. to the W. of Kil-
kenny is the village of Tullaroan,
once the centre and most important
part of the property of the family of
Grace, who were descended from
"Le Gros," the brothet-in-law of
Strongbow, and who owned a dis-
trict of 80,000 acres known as
"Grace's Country." From Callan
the road may be taken to Jer-
point, passing midway the village of
Kells, another ancient walled town,
erected by one of Strongbow's fol-
lowers. Here are the ruins of an
extensive priory founded in the 12th
cent, by Sir Greoffrey de Monte
Morisco, and peopled by him with
monks from Bodmin. *' It was com-
prehended within a large oblong
square, divided into 2 courts sepa-
rated by a strong wall. The south-
ern or Burghers' court is 400 ft.
square, and was apparently never
occupied by buildings. In each of
the northern angles, and in the
centre of the N. and W. curtains, is
a strong tower in good preservation,
fitted up with fireplaces, closets, and
narrow staircases. A branch of the
King's River, together with a high
wall flanked by a strong tower,
divides this court from the other,
which contains the church, cloister,
and monastic attachments. Every
necessary adjunct to a monastery
seems to have been placed here, in-
cluding what probably many houses
did not possess within their walls, a
mill. The church was rather an
248
Route 26. — Dublin to Waterford. Ireland.
irregular building, and consisted of
a choir, nave, and N. transept, be-
sides a Lady chapel ; which last ap-
pears, from the remains of some
Nvindows, to have been the most
lately erected portion of the priory."
Tiie whole style of the buildings
at Kells appears to partake con-
siderably more of the military and
difensive than of the ecclesiastical
fashion.
Nearly 3 m. S. of Kells is the
Sound Tower of Kilree, about 96 ft.
in height) though it has lost its cap.
Adjoining it is a stone cross made
out of a single block of freestone,
said to have been erected in memory
of Neill Callan, King of Ireland, who
perished in his endeavour to save
one of liis followers while drowning.
The river was afterwards called
King's Kiver. The same tradition
is current in co. Armagh, where
there is a mound erected for the
some reason.]
For the first 3 m. on our way to
Waterford we run parallel with the
Irish S. Eastern, obtaining an excel-
lent view of the town, and passing
rt. the lunatic asylum, Larchfield,
Archersgrove (J. Reid, Esq.), Inch
House (J. H. Knaresborougn, Esq.),
and 1. Lyrath House (Sir J. Guffe,
Bart.).
At Lavistown, 2 m. the lines di-
verge, the one to Waterford, trending
to the S., and following the valley of
tlieNore to
6 m. Bennett's Bridge. Here the
Duke of Ormonde held a review in
1704, which attracted such hosts of
visitors that an innkeeper is said to
have made as much % his beds as
paid his rent for 7 years.
[About 2i m. on 1., and halfway
between Bennett's Bridge and Dun-
garvon, is the round tower of Tullo-
herin, which has an entrance 12 ft.
from the ground, and was lighted by
8 windows at the summit, part of
wliich, with tlie cap, is deficient.
The ruins of a large ch. are adja-
cent, and it is a singular fact that whole
this latter is built of limestone, the
tower was built of silicious brecda.]
From hence the rly. runs over
rather high ground, which now and
then offers pleasant views of the pas-
toral vale of the Nore to rt. as it flows
through a succession of well-wooded
demesnes. On rt. bank, Annamult ;
on the King's River, Johnswell ; and
Mount Juliet/ the seat of the Earl of
Carrick.
On the 1. bank are the grounds of
Ballyhinch (W. Fitzgerald, Es(j.),
between which and the riy. are rums
of a fortress called Legan Castle, the
ancient residence of Sie last Abbot
of Jerpoint.
11 m. Thomastown (Inns: CM-
len's; TruUy's) is a small town of
about 1906 inhab:, of note only as
being the nearest place to Jerpoint
Abbey, and the beautiful scenery iu
the neighbourhood. It derives its
name horn. Thomas Fitz Anthony
Walsh,, one of the early English pro-
prietors, who built a castle, and en-
closed the town with walls. From
that period it rapidly increased, and
from its position on the Nore, which
up to a late date was navigable to
this point, became an important em-
porium for Kilkenny and the neigh-
bouring country. The river, how-
ever, silted up,- and as no steps were
ever taken to deepen or clear the bed,
the navigation point is now Innis-
tiogue, and Thomastown has conse-
quently become a petty village.
It contains several relics of its
former greatness, viz., square towers
at each end of the bridge that crosses
the Nore, and part of An ciisle of the
Dominican Abbey, of the foundation
of which history is silent, although
it is probably of the date of the 13th
cent. It may also be mentioned that
the R.C. chapel contains the old high
altar that once belonged to Jerpoint.
About i m. below the town, and on
the opposite side of the river, is the
ruin of Grenan Castle, by which
name Thomastown was called pre-
Ireland.
Botde 26. — Jerpoint Abbey.
249
vious to the arrival of Fitz Anthony
Walsh,
The great attraction of this nelgh-
bourliood is Jerpoint Abbey ^ founded
in 1180 by Donogh O'Donoghoe,
King of Ossory, for Cistercian monks.
It speedily attained a high reputation,
and became tlie burial place of the
royal founder and subsequent bishops,
flourishing until the Dissolution,when
it came into the hands of the family
of Oi-monde, together with 6500 acres
of land.
The ruins are situated abbut 1| m.
from Thomastown, between the rly.
and the rt. bank of the river, and as
seen from the line afford an exquisite
foi-eground to a very charming bit of
landscape. They are those of a cru-
ciform ch. of the date of transition
from Norman to E.E., traces of both
of which styles are very distinct,
though the former predominates.
It consisted of nave, choir, and
transepts, with a square tower rising
from the intersection, which < from
the shortness of the choir, places it
Vf ry much nearer the E. than the W.
end.
" The tower, though of consider-
able antiquity, is evidently of later
date than the transition period, and
was probably added contempora-
neously with the decorated window
in the E. end of the choir." — Wake-
man.
The battlements of the tower are
deserving of study " as being iden-
tical with many found in the N. of
Italy, but very imlike anything either
in England or Scotland. They give
a foreign look to the whole building,
which is very striking." — Fergusson.
Internally the tower is supported
on arches, those facing the transepts
and nave being pointed, while the
one leading to the choir is circular-
headed. Of the nave, the 8. wall is
wanting. On the north side is an aisle
separated from the body of the nave
by 6 pointed arches, between each of
which is a clerestory window, with
semicircular heads. Of a similar
character is the W. window (the E.
being of later date). It consists of
3 lights with semicircular heads, each
divided by a mulhon, and surmounted
with a contiiruous weathermoulding.
" The only entrance to the body of
the ch. from the exterior appears to
have been a small doorway in the
wall of the nave, and this is defended
by a bartizan similar to those found
upon castles of the 12th cent."
The stone roof of the choir is in
good preservation, and there are still
several interesting monuments, and in
particular the tomb of Donogh (Mac
Gillapatrick), the royal founder. Ther
figures are those of a male and fe-
male, in the costume of th€rl2th cent.,
the former holding a crucifix in his
right hand. On the base are figures
of the Apostles, with long beards,
and at the foot are 2 crowned figures,
besides a kneeling angel. Here is
also the tomb of an abbot with his
crozier, at the lower end of which a
serpent is gnawing.- There are alsa
other tombs of ecclesiastics, more or
less mutilated, after the fashion of
Irish abbey ruins, which have not
even the negative advantages of being
left to the ravages of time alone. It
is, however, greatly to the credit of
the Kilkenny ArchsBological Society
that they have taken steps towards
the preservation of Jerpoint.
Besides the estates before men-
tit>ned, there are 2 handsome seate 2
m. N. of Thomastown — Kilfane and
Kilmury, the former belonging to Sir
J. Power, Bart., and the latter to H.
Butler, Esq^
Conveyances. — Rail ta Kilkenny
and Waterford. Car to New Ross.
Distances. — Kilkenny, 11 m. ; Jer^
point, 1 J ; Innistiogue,*6 ; New Ross,
16 ; Woodstock, 7 ; Waterford, 20.
pf time is not an object, the tra-
veUer should make a detour to New
Bfoss, following the coiu^e of the
Nore, which continues to justify its
reputation of being the most quietly
beautitul river in the S.
Passing on 1. bank the Court and
tf 3
250
Boute 26. — Dublin to Water/ard, Ireland.
Brownsbam House (Capt. Black-
burae) ; and rt. bank, Coolmore
(P. Connellwi, Esq.) and Ballyduflf
(R. Langrishe, Esq.), we arrive at
6 m. Innistiogue (anc. Inis-teoc),
n cliarmingly-situated little town
overlooking the Nore, which is
crossed by a bridge of 10 arches,
ornamented on one side with Ionic
pilasters. The town is built in
tlie form of a square, which being
planted with limetrees give it a pe-
culiarly fresh and pretty appearance.
Innistiogue was once a loyal borough,
and famed for its religious establish-
ments. It also possessed a large
Augustinian monastery. All that is
now left of it are 2 towers, one of
them incorporated with the parish
oil. ; the other is square at the base
and octagonal itttho' upper stages.
This is a good point from which to
ascend Brandon UiU^ a conical emi-
nence 1694 feet in heiglit, that inter-
venes between the valley of the Nore
and that of the Barrow.
The view from the summit into
these 2 vallrys is very lovely, over-
looking St. Mullins and Graigue-na-
Managh (Rte. 28), while to the E.
the view is bounded by the superior
}j eights of Mount Leinster and
Blackstairs. The gi'cat lion of In-
nistiogue is Woodstock, the seat of
Rt. Hon. W. F. Tighe (Lieutenant
of the CO. Kilkenny), the grounds
of which abound with the moat beau-
tiful views. The demesne stretches
for a considerable distance along the
Nore, and is laid out with every
diversity of landscape that wood and
water can bestow. The house con-
tains a valuable library and some
good paintings, while in the grounds
are several cottage-omees, pliaced in
situations that command the most
charming bits. At the back rises a
wooded hill to the height of 900 ft,
the summit crowned with an orna-
mental tower.
To Woodstock succeeds Bromsford,
opposite to which is the ruin of
Clonamery castle.
At 10 m. on rt. bank is Newgrove
House, and on 1. Ballinabamey (J.
Bolger, Esq.), Rathsnagadan, and
Russellstown House.
At 14 m. Ringwood (Mrs. Chap-
man) the Barrow —
** The goodly Barow, which doth hoor
Great heaps of salmons in his deepbosome.
All which, long sundred, doe at last accord
To ioyne in one, ere to the sea they come ; -
So, floMTlng all from one, all one at last
become." — Spmier^ —
joins its waters with the Nore, and
they flow together in a noble stream,
backed by high wooded banks, to
16 m. New Ross (Rte. 28>]
From Thomastown the line passes
close to Jerpoint Abbey, where the
valley af the Nore is crossed. Close
to the Abbey is Jerpoint House (P.
Hunt, Esq.), and 2 m. to the W.,
Flood HalL
15 m. Ballyhale Stat, 1 m from
which on rt, is Knoctopher village
and House, the latter the residence of
Rev. Sir H. Langrishe, Bart.
The charming river and valley
scenery now gives place to dreary
high ground, the line passing at
the base of the Booley range of
hills to 23 m. Mullinavat If the
weather be clear, however, there are
beautiful distant views on rt. of
Slieve-na-man and the Commeragh
Hills. At Mullinavat a small stream,
called the Black Water, runs S. to
join the Suir, and of this valley the
rly. takes advantage.
26 m. Kilmacow Stat. At Dunkitt
the Waterford and Limerick line is
j oined.
31 m. Waterford (Rtes. 28, 30).
Hotels: Adelphi, Dobbyn's, Cum-
mins'.
Ireland.
Boute 27. — Kilkenny to Athenry,
ROUTE 27.
FROM KILKENNY TO ATHENRY,
THROUGH PARSONSTOW.N AND
LOUQHREA.
A car leaves Kilkenny for Urling-
ford, by a pretty road on the rt. bank
of the Nore, passing rt. the Mount
Eagle Distillery, where the Dinan
river flows in from the district of
Castle Comer (Rte. 26).
. At 9 m. the village of Freshford,
the antiquary should visit the ch.,
originally built by St, Lachtin in the
7th cent., but rebuilt about the com-
mencement of the 12th, as is proved
by two Irish inscriptions over the
inner arch of the entrance doorway ;
the one running thus —
" A prayer for Niam daughter of Core, and
for Mathgahain O'Chlabmeic, by whom
was made this church."
The other—
" A prayer for Gille Mocholuoc O'Cen-
coCAiN, who made it."
•* It is to be regretted that neither our
annals nor genealogical books pre-
serve the names of any of the persons
recorded in this inscription, so that
it is impossible to determine exactly
the period at which they flourished ;
but it is obvious, from the surnames
applied to the three individuals con-
cerned, that they could not have lived
earlier than the 11th cent., when the
use of hereditary surnames was gene-
rally established in Ireland." — Jt'etrie.
Notice the magnificent Norman de-
coration of the receding arches, in
which the bead and chevron mould-
ings are conspicuous: on either side
of the spring of the outer arch are 2
singular sculptures— one of a man on
horseback; the other of two figures
standing up. A very peculiar feature
251
is the sculpture of lions' heads on the
soffits of tiiie outer arch immediately
over the imposts. The ancient name
of Freshford was Achadhur, " Water-
field." To the N. of the town is
Lodgepark House (W. Wanen, Esq.) ;
on the S. is Upper Court.
Passing L Woodsgift (Sir R. St.
George, Bart.), BaUef (H. St. George,
Esq.), and WUton House, we come to
18 m. Urlingfordy an uninteresting
town, ojffering nothing but a pretty
panoramic view from the racecourse.
In the neighbourhood of 21 m, Johns-
town, once celebrated for its spa, are
Violet HiU and Foulkscourt (0. Hely.
Esq.).
Irom here a road runs nearly due
N. through a hilly coimtry to
31 m. Rathdotoneyt near which plaoo
are several ruined keeps, viz. Cool-
kerry on the ErMna stream ; Kilbreedy
on the N.E. ; Clonburren on the S.W. ;
none of them being of any importance.
33 m. the village pf Donaghmore,
and 53 m. Borris station on the Great
Southern and Western Ely. (Rte. 25),
from whence a convenient branch-line
runs to Boscrea, Parsonstown, and
Nenagh. Keeping on 1. Ballybrophy
and Ballymeelish, is 38 m. JBorris, dis-
tinguished by the addition of Ossory
from the Borris near Kilkenny, which
is properly Boiris-Idrone. This was
once a place of importance, from being
the great pass into Munster, for the
protection of which a castle, now in
ruins, was erected by the Fitzpatricks.
On rt. are Charleville (H. White,
Esq.), KUmartin, Mount Butler (Lady
Garden), Derryvale, Racket Hall
(Mrs, Sridge), Birchgrove (J. S.
Birch, Esq.), and Monaincha (G.
Birch, Esq.), all in the neighbour-
hood of
45 m. Boscrea {Hotel: Brown's),
in former times the locale of a large
monastery for Augustines, foimded
by St. Cronan, and the seat of a dio-
cese, which, however, in the 12th
cent, was imited to that of Killaloe,
St. Cronan was celebrated for his
sanctity and learning, and many mi-
252
BotUe 27. — Kilkenny to Athenry,
Iret.and,
raclcs were attributed to his prayers ;
in one case, the fury of the Ossorians,
who were marching against his coun-
trymen, was checked at liis interces-
sion ; at another time, " he suspended
the sword of King Fingin of Munster,
which was raised to destroy the people
of. Ikleath ; " and he eventually died in
the fulness of years and good works,
as abbot or bishop of Roscrea,-in the
7th cent. The points of interest in the
town are — l.-the ch.,.which preserves
the doorway of the ancient abbey,
having niches on either side, and an
image of St. Cronan very much mu-
tilated. In the ch.-yard is a cross, and
a monumental stone in the wall, on
which is sculptured a rude represen- '
tation of the Gnicifixion ; this is Known
as the shrine of St. Cronan. 2. The
round tower is in remarkably good
preservation, and is very similar to
that of Devenish Island in Lough
Enie (Rte. 6). The doorway has
a circular head, is 15 ft. from the
gi-ound, and possesses a groove and
pivot-hole, evidently showing that it
was provided with double doors; a
fact which goes to prove the argument
that the round towers were used as
places of defence and security. (Petrie
on * Round Towers,' p. 369.) It is
ornamented with a plain flat archi-
trave; over the doorway is a trian-
gular-headed aperture. The summit,
which is about 80 ft. from the ground,
is covered with a dome roof of wood*
3. The old Franciscan firiary, founded
in 1490, by Mulrany - na - Feasoige
O'Carrol and Bribiana his wife, is in-
corporated with the Roman Catholic
chapel, which, by the way, contains a
good altarpiece of the Crucifixion.
Besides these ecclesiastical ruins
are some interesting structures, viz. :
a circular tower belonging to the
castle built by King John, and a lofty
square keep of the fortress of the Or-
mondes,, which has been made use of
in part as a barra^ck and storeroom.
Roscrea-was at one time the residence
of St. Canice, " who wrote here a copy
of the 4 Gospels called Glas Kennic,
or * the Chain of Canice,' which, till
the time of Archbishop Usher, was
preserved in this place. There was
also a curious copy written by Darima,
a scholar, the son of (Engus, the son
of Carthin, which was also kept there
in an ornamented box, and was pro-
bably the MS. in the possession of Sir
William Betham, Ulster £ling-at-
Arms." — Lewis.
The town is prettily situated on a
small river flowing into the Brosna,
and is surround^ by undulating
hills ; there are many nice seats in the
neighbourhood* some of which have
been mentioned. Amongst others are
— Ballystanley (H. Scroope, Esq.V
Inane House (F. Jackson, Esq.)t
Mount Heaton, Hillsborough (H.
Buckley, Esq.), Glenalbert (A. Max-
well, Esq.), Golden Grove (J. Hutch-
inson, Esq.), and Dungar (Mrs.
Evans). In the grounds of CorviUe
House (H. Prittie, Esq.), 1 m. S.E.,
are slight remains of the abbey of
Corbally ; and in those of Monanicha
are also remains of Inchanameo
Abbey,, a Culdee establishment,
which flourished in tiie time of St,
Columba.
Conveyances. — Rail to Borris, Par-
sonstown, and Nenagh.
Distances. — Borris, 10m.; Parsons-
town, 11; Nenagh, 20; Moneygall,
9; Cloghjordan,. 12.
The line now keeps the valley of
the Little Brosna river, leaving on 1.
the villages of Brosna and Shmrone,
and on rt. the grounds of Gloster
(Col. Lloyd).
52 m..rt. Sharavogue (Col. Hon. J.
Westenra) and Rathmore (E. Synge,
Esq.), and 1. BaUinoox House (F. H.
Toone, Esq.).
56 m. Birr or Tarsonstovm {Hotel t
Dooley's), the former name being
obtained from the ancient abbey ctf
Biorra, founded here by St. Bren^
dan ; and the latter from the family
of the Parsons, to whom, in the time
of James I., the town and neighbour-^
hood were assigned. They built a
castle, which has been modernised.
Ireland,
BotUe 27. — Parsonstown.
253
and is now the residence of tlie Earl
of Rosse, to whose labours the science
of astronomy is so much indebted.
The great objects of interest are the
Earl's famous telescopes, to visit which
permission is granted to the tourist.
The chief difficulty of the proper
combination of metals most useful
for specula, as to tlieir whiteness,
porosity, and hardness,, was solved
oy Lord Rosse, who found that one of
copper (126 parts) with tin (58 parts)
was the best. He also successfully
cast specula, by an improvement in
tlie shapeof the mould, which,-in8tead
of being of solid cast-iron, " was
liiade by binding together tightly
layers of hoop-iron, and turning the
required shape on them edgeways/*
Tiie speculum of the large telescope
is 6 ft., weighs 3 tons, and required
16 weeks to- anneal. As regards the
machinery by which it is worked,
** the tube is 56 ft. long, and is made
of deal 1 inch thick. The focal length
of the speculum is 52 ft. The tube
is fixed to mason-work in the ground,
by a large universal hinge, which
allows it to turn in all directions.
At each side of it, at 12 ft. distance,
a wall is built, which is 72 ft. long,
48 ft. high on the outer side, and 56
on the inner: the walls are thus 24
ft. apart, and lie exactly in the meri-
dian line. When directed to the S.
the tube may be lowered till it be-
comes almost horizontal, but when
pointed to the N. it only falls until
it is parallel with the earth's axis,
pointing then to the pole of the
heavens ; a lower position would be
useless, for as all celestial objects
circumscribe that point, they will
come into view above and about it."
— Shiels.
The town is well built and regularly
laid out, and, as will be seen at a
glance, is under the surveillance of a
careful resident landlord ; the streets
converge to Duke Square, in which
there is a Doric pillar in memory of
the Duke of Cumberland and his vic-
tory at Culloden (Pop. 5401).
The ch. is of Early Pointed style
with a spire 100 ft. in height ; but
this is eclipsed by the Roman Cath.
Cathedral, a fine Perp. building. In
the neighbourhood of Parsonstown are
the Castle, Syngfield (E. Synge, Esq.),
Chesterfield (Gol. Manners), &c.
^ The coimta^ round is not remark-
able for beauty ; the town itself is si-
tuated on the littie river Canaoor, a
tributary of the Brosna, and in the
centre of Ireland, so much so that Sir
William- Petty, in his * Survey of Ire-
land,' calls it " Umbilicus Hiber-
nisB." If the tourist has time he may
make an excursion towards Nenagh,
and ascend the hill of Knochshegoona
about 6 m. S.W, Although of no
height, 700 ft., it commands a wide
view over the surrounding plains and
the ranges of the Slieve Bloom
Mountains.
Excursions.^
1. Seir-kyran,
2. Roscrea^
3. Portumna and Loragh,
4. Banagher.
[6 m. to the E. is Seirkyran, which
was in old days an important eccle-
siastical establishment, dedicated to
St. K3rran. In addition to several
ruins, there is a round tower about
20 ft. high, surmounted by a conical
cap, at the base of which are several
loopholes. The ch. has a figure of
St. Kyran on the western gable, and
on the eastern one of those singular
nude figures occasionally found.
The parish is said to derive its prefix
from Seir, " a heel," in consequence
of its shape. Clereen is the seat of
R.Smith, Esq.]
Conveyances. — Rail to Roscrea; car
to Athlone, through Ferbane; daily
to Ballybrophy, to Ballinasloe, to
Banagher.
Distances. — ^Borris, 18 m. ; Roscrea,
11; Borrisokane, 12; Banagher, 8;
Portumna, 15 ; Loughrea, 35 ; Frank-
ford, 10.
Passing 1. Woodfield and Dovcgrove
House (J. Johnstone, Esq.), the road
runs N.W. over a dreary portion of
2U
Bmte 2^.— Wexford to Cork.
ICELAND.
King's County to the valley of the
IShannon, which is crossed at 6i m.
Banagher f Rte. 34). 66} m. Near
the rt. baiiK of the river at Shannon
View (H. Moore, Esq.) the geologist
will perceive one of those singular
Eskera or drift ridges which run
through the centre of the great lime-
stone plain of Ireland.
71 m. Eyrecourt is a small uninter-r
esting town adjoining the estate of
the family of Eyre. Either of 2 roads
may be followed from Eyrecourt to
liOUghrea; the upper one passing
Frenchpark, Belview (W. Lawrence,
Esq.^, Ballymore Castle (T". Seymour^
Esq.), and the villajje of Kiltormer;
the lower one nms through Killimor,
crossing at Hearnesbrook a consider-
able tributary of the Shanuonr.
Leaving on 1. Ballydoogan House
(T. Burke, Esq.), the traveller soon
enters
91 m. Loucjhrea {Sotels: Carroll's,
Lynch's), a Gal way town of some
note and beauty, situated on the
northern bank of Lough Rea, a lake
of between 2 and 3 m. in circum-
ference, on which a large number
of crannoges or ancient stockaded
islands have lately been discovered.
In the centre of the town are some
remains of an E. Eng. monastery
founded by Sir Richard de Brn-gh for
Carmelite monks; also of the old
f )rtress built by the same individual,
and once the residence of the Clan-
ricarde family. There are, moreover, a
couple of ruined towers, about 1 m. to
the N. The scenery between Lough-
rea and Athenry is of that peculiar
rocky and desolate character which
l^elongs to Galway, although the mono-
tony is somewhat relieved by the dis-
tant views of Slieve Aughty to the S.,
on the confines of Clare and Galway.
Passing St. Cleran's (Major Burke),
Dunsandle (Lord Dunsandle), and
Moyode Castle (B. P(»rsse, Esq.), the
tourist reaches the Midland Great
"NS'estem Railway at Athenry (Rte.
11).
ROUTE 28.
FROM WEXFORD TO CORK, THROUGH
WATERFORD. DUNQARVAN, AND
YOUGHAi^
The road fipom Wexford to New Roefc
does not present any very remarkable
features. It leaves the embouchure
of the Slaney, and the Enniscorthy
road, altogether to the rt. ; and at
4^m. [gives off a branch to 3|m.
the viUage of Taghmon (Theagh
Munno, **the House of Munno ") from
a monastery founded by St Munno
in the 6th cent, of which very few
tifaces now remain. Here are, however,
a square tower, a portion of the old
castle of the Tallx)t family, and a
rude cross in the ch.-yard. Taghmon
is situated near the N.W. foot of
the Forth Mts., a conspicuous feature
in South Wexford landscape, al-
thouo^h only 776 ft. high. In the
neighbourhood, and on the road to
Foulkesmill, are Raheenduff (Capt.
Beattie), Horetown (S. Goff, Esq.),
and Hillburn (T. Hawkshaw, Esq)].
[8 m. rt a road branches off to En-
niscorthy, and a little fieirther on, also
on rt., is Camaross Hill, a singular
granite liillock, 598 ft, an outlier of a
low range of hills that intervene be-
tween this district and New Ross. The
road runs near a similar though rather
more lofty eminence at Carrickbum,
and then crosses this range, descend-
ing on the other side directly upon
22 m. New Ross {Hotels : Ross ;
Bridge), a busy, foreign-looking little
town of about 5000 Inhab., with
narrow streets running up the side of
the hill and along the banks of the
I REL AND. Boute 28.— JVew? Boss — St. MulUns,
255
Borrow, which, is here a noble and
stately stream, crosaed by one of the
long wooden bridges so common in the
S.E. of Ireland. Very shortly after the
invasion, Boss was founded by Isabella
daughter of Strongbow, aijd became
of great importance, the circuit of its
wedls being upwards of a mile, and
l)oasting a garrison of 363 cross-
lx)W men, 1200 long-bow archers,
oOOO pikemen, and 104 horsemen. A
castle was built : and " so anxious were
the townspeople to accomplish their
undertaking, that not only did the
whola of the male population work at
it by turns in companies, but many
of the young women also aided in it,
to commemorate which a strong tower
or gate, called Maiden Tower, was
erected eastward in the town, for a
prison exclusively for persons guilty
of ojffenccs against females." — Lewie.
In the Parhamentary war, Ross was
garrisoned for the Royalists by the
Duke of Ormonde; but on the ap-
proach of Cromwell, it surrendered
immediately. The bridge of Rosse-
ponte was broken down by the Irish
at this time, and a ferry was used
until Lemuel Cox, who constructed
the bridges at "VVaterford, Wexford,
Youghal, and Londonderry, built the
present one, which is 508 ft, long, and
has a drawbridge to allow of the navi-
gation. Ross Ibrmerly had 5 gates ;
of these, one called Bishop's Gate is
still standing : it is to the N. of the
town, and possesses a good pointed
archway. One went by the name of
Three-bullet Gate, from the circum-
stance of 3 cannon-baUs, fired by
Cromwell, lodging in it. There are
also some walls and good pointed
windows of the old Conventual ch.,
founded in the 13th cent. On the
site of a portion of it the modem ch.
of St. Mary has been erected. The
interior contains some miu*al monu-
ments to the family of Tottenham,
while in tlie ruins are the tombs
of Peter Butler (1.599) and Rose
M'Room. Ross has a fine posi-
tion as a port, and a considerable
trade in grain and coal ; but it
is dependent on the port of Water-
ford, which has had the best of it in
the race for superiority.
Although it is not the pleasantest
of towns to stay at, it is a good cen-
tral point for excursions up or down
the Barrow and Nore, which unite
their streams about 2m. to the N.
The Nore should be ascended by boat
to Woodstock and Inistiogue. (Rte.
26,)]
[An excursion may be made up
the Barrow, to St. MuUins and
Graiguemanagh. For the first mile
the road winds up a terrace over-
looking the broad reaches of the river,
and passing on rt. the ancient keep
of Mountgarrett Castle. Descending
the hill on the other side, having on
1. Rosemount (E. Byrne, Esq.), and
rt. Woodville (E. Tottenham, Esq.),
it follows the 1. bank of the Barrow
— the road on the rt. bank leading
to Inistiogue, and by a more direct
route to Graiguemanagh. Near the
site of MacMurrogh's castle the tra-
veller turns ojff to BallywiUiam (Rte.
26), the present terminus of the Iri^
South- Eastern Rly.
At 6^ m., where the Pollmounty
stream falls into the Barrow, the
scenery becomes very picturesque,
as the Barrow flows between Mt.
Brandon on 1. and the range of
Blackstairs and Mt. Leinster on rt.
The wooded banks on each side of
the river attain a height of 300 ft.
or thereabouts.
8^ m. St. MtdlinSt a village placed
in a most charming situation at the
mouth of a rivulet that flows from
Glynn.
St. Mulhns (from St. Moling, Bi-
shop of Ferns, who founded a monas-
tery here) was of ancient ecclesias-
tical importance, and even now con-
tains traces of " 5 small structures in
the ch.-yard, extending from E. to
W., with 2 walls, once forming part
of a 6th, and the western walls of a
7th, outside the enclosure ,* at the E.
of the largest are remains of a stone
25G
BotUe 28.— Wexford to Corh
Ireland.
cross and a small roofless building,
wilh »teps descending into it."
TJie tide flows as far as St.
IMulUns — from whence the towing-
path should be followed for the
remainder of the excursion. The
same character of scenery, viz. high
wooded banks running up towards
tlie mountains continues nearly the
whole distance; and about halfway
on the opposite side are the ruins of
Gal way fortress.
Graiguemmagh, 13 m., is con-
nected by a bridge with the suburb
of Tinnahinch, in the co. of Carlow,^
the main part of the town being in
Kilkenny. A portion of the old
abbey foimded by the Earl of Pem-
broke in the IBth cent is incorpo-
rated with a R. C. chapel. Extending
some distance down the river are
the grounds of Brandon Dale (D.
Burtchaell, Esq.).
Distance, — 6 m. from Borris.
On the return from Graignemanagh
to Ross, the tourist should follow the
direct road on the W. side of the
Barrow ; and from it may easily as-
cend Mount Brandon, 1694 ft., one
of the most graceful little hills in the
S. of Ireland, and one from which
the home views are particularly^
charming — the more extensive pros-
l)ect to the E. being cut off by Mt.
Leinster and Blackstairs.]
[Second excursion down the bank
of the Barrow to Dunbrody, 9^ m.,
passing Oaklands (R. Tyndall, Esq.),
Stokestown (T. Deane, Esq.), and
Landscape (J. Ushers Esq.) on the 1.
bank; with Annagh's House (W.
Swedtman, Esq.), and Castle on the
opposite shore. With the exception
of the conical hill of Slieve Killter,
887 ft., on the 1., the country is com-
paratively level, and very different
from the deep ravines and dells ot
the upper part of the Barrow, near
St. Mullins.
Passing in succession Killowenn
(J. Glascott, Esq.), Pilltown, and
Kilmaimoch House (G. Houghton,
Esq.), tlie tourist crosses a small
piU that joins the estuary of the
Barrow, opposite Clieek Point, where
the waters of the Suir fall in, and
arrives at 9^ m. Dunbrody Ab-
bey, the largest and most beauti-
ful ruin in the co. of Wexford. It
dates from the 12th cent., when it
was founded by Hervseus de Monte-
marisco, or Hervey de Montmorency,
marshal of Henry II., and seneschal
of the lands obtained by Strongbow,
who, with a rare consistency, gave up
all his property with the exceptioQ
of the lands belonging to the abbey,
of which he was first abbot. It
is a ci-uciform church, consisting of
nave, aisles, choir, transepts ; with a
low and massive tower rising from
the intersection. The great E. win-
dow, which in Grose's time was
singularly perfect, is a 3-light E.
Eng, lancet window, deeply splayed
inwardly and surmounted by three
smaller ones above. The nave is
separated from the aisles by rows of
Early Pointed arches, between which
are tiefoil-headed clerestory windows.
The piers of the arches are square,
and the arclids themselves have par-
ticularly good mouldings arising from
corbels a little below the spring of
tlie arch. Grose mentions the splen-
dour of the W. door, which was
adorned with "filigree openwork cut
in the stone."
Close to the abbey, is Dijnbrody
Castle, a building of the time of
Henry II., incorporated with a mo-
dern house. After examining Dun-
brody, it wiU be better for the tourist
to proceed further S., past Arthurs-
town, a seat of Lord Templemore's,
to Duncannon (p. 259), where the
packet may be taken up the river
to Watertbrd.]
Conveyances. — From New Ross to
Enniscorthy ; car to Thomastown ;
coach to Waterford and Wexlbrd;
steamer daily to Waterford.
Distances. — Wexford, 22 m. ; Wa-
terford, 15; Dunbrody, 9J; BaUy-
william, 5; Woodstock, 8; Inis-
Ireland.
Boute 28. — Waterford.
257
tiogue, 9 ; St. Mullins, 8 J ; Tinne-
Liiich, 13.
Excursions. —
1 . Dunbrody and Duncannon.
2. St. MulUns.
3. Inistiogue.
4. Wexford.
The road to Waterford crosses the
Barrow by the long wooden bridge
to Kosbereon, a pretty suburb^ pos-
sessing a few ruins of an old ch. or
abbey, comprising a tower resting on
4 pointed arches and the side wall of
tlie aisle ; and then turns to the 1.
along the rt. bank of the river, passing
on 1. Annagh's House (W. Sweetman,.
Es(][.), in whose grounds are the re-
mains of a fortress. The scenery is
picturesque near this point,- a terrace
road running close to the river, which
is ornamented on the opposite bank
with the well-wooded demesnes of
Stokestown and Landscape. At the
Tillage of Glenmore the traveller
ascends a long and steep pitch, com-
manding from the top a magnificent
view of Brandon,^ Mount Leinster,
and the Blackstairs. Not much can
be said of the scenery for the rest
of the journey, the country being
bleak and hiUy, with but little to
relieve the eye imtil the descent
commences into the fertile valley of
the Suir, 'and past many neat villas
to Ferrybank, from which another
long wooden bridge brings us in the
centre of
37 m. Waterford (anc. Port-lairge)
(Rte. 26.) {Hotels: Adelphi, very
good ; Dobbyn's, tolerable ; Cum-
min's, bad), — a city^ a county,
the seat of a diocese, and one of
tlie most ancient towns in the
kingdom; its history dating back
from 853, when the Danes founded a
colony under their leader Sitricus.
They kept their position not only in
Waterford, but through a good por-
tion of the S.W. of Ireland, until
the latter part of the 12th cent.,
when the advanced guard of Strong-
bow, under Hervey ae Montmorency
and Raymond Le Gros overthrew
them. Here Dcrmot M'Murrough,
King of Leinster, gave his daughter
Eva to Strongbow in marriage, when
Henry TI. landed to take possession
of his new kingdom. Subsequently,
John Earl of Morton, when Lord
Chief Governor of Ireland, estabhshed
a mint, a privilege which the city
enjoyed until the time of Edward
rV. To detail all the sieges and
reverses which it underwent would
be to write the history of a great
part of Ireland; for from its posi-
tion as a port, and its proximity to
England, scarcely anything import-
ant took place that did not directly
or indirectly affect Waterford. It
sustained a siege of 12, days at the
hands of Perkm Warbeck and the
Earl of Desmond; and again, in
1641, by Cromwell, who was obliged
to retire. In the next year, how-
ever, the city capitulated to Ireton.
The situation of Waterford is ad-
mirably adapted for a shipping port,
its long quays stretching for more
tlian a mile along the S. bank of
the Suir, which rolls in a broad stream
in a direction N.W. to S.E.
" The gentle Shure, that making way
By sweet Clomnell, adomes rich Waterford. '
A small portion only of the city is
on the N. bank, including tlie rly. ter-
minus of the Kilkenny and Limerick
lines; and below the bridge the
high grounds that overlook the river
are adorned with pleasant country-
houses and gardens. The connec-
tion between the suburb of Ferry-
bank and Waterford is maintaiiied
by a wooden bridge, 832 ft. long,
supported on piers of stone and
oak. Like Wexford, this was the
work of Lemuel Cox, the Boston ar-
chitect, who not only built it sub-
stantially, but still more strangely,
for a considerably less sum than the
estimate. The particulars of the
building are set forth on a tablet in
the middle of the bridge ; though
the inscription is not altogether free
from ortiiogiaphioal error. The view
258
Boute 28. — Wexford to Cork,
Ireland.
from the bridge is wortli a few rai-
iiuU's' notice — from the picturesque
escarpment of the bauks in the im-
mediate neighbourhood, the pretty
liills on the one side, and the gradu-
ally ascending tiers of houses on the
otiier, with a long perspective of
qtiay and river.
With the exception, however, of
t'lis quay, and the Mall that
runs out of it at right angles at
the southern end, there is not a sin*
gle good street in Waterford, which,
it must be confessed, has, generally
sjjeaking, an ancient and fishlike
smell, mixed up with odours of
butter and pigs. The visitor will not
wonder at this, when he observes that
Waterford is the nearest and most
crowded port of export for Irirfi pro-
duce into England, particularly at
the time of the sailings of the Bristol
packets, when it would seem impos-
sible to stow away the immense
droves of cattle that throng the
quays, and certainly do not add to
the cleanliness of the streets. " The
harbour of Waterford is formed by
the channel of the Suir, from the
city to its confluence with the Bar-
row ; and from thence by the joint
estuary of these rivers to the sea, a
distance of 15m. ; the entrance 2Jm.
wide, which is well lighted by a
bright fixed light on Hook Tower,
139 ft. above the sea, by a red light
on Dunmore pier, and 2 leading
liglitd at Duncannon. Vessels of 800
tons can discharge at the quays,
which are described by the Tidal
Harbour Commissioners as the finest
range in the United Kingdom. The
income of the port, arising from ton-
nage, ballast, anchorage, quayage
dues, and pilotage, amounted in
1843 to 6948Z. On the Kilkenny
side of the river there is a ship-
building yard, with patent slip,
graving bank, and dock. The ex-
ports are almost wholly agricultural ;
the value of the principal articles
exported in 1835 was, bacon and
pork. 523,983/.; butter, 475,884/,;
grain, 229,775/.; flbur and meal,
404,263/.; cattle, sheep, and pigs,
137,098/. '—iTtow's Directory. Not-
withstanding its extreme age, it is
surprising how few antiquarian re-
mains are left : of the walls and forti-
fications which surrounded it, and en-
closed an area of 15 acres, there are
only a tower, close to the Tramore rly.
station, and the circular tower which
stands at the corner of the Mall or
Quay, and which we are told by an
inscription was built by Reginald the
Dane in 1003 ; held as a fortification
by Strongbow in 1171 ; re-edified in
1819, and now appropriated as a po-
lice lock-up. It is mentioned as a
curious feature .in the social history
of Waterford that there were "in
addition to the regular fortifications
of the city, several private fortresses
called by the names of their respec-
tive proprietors, and supposed to
have been not less than 20 in num-
ber. In Colbeck Castle, from which
that street took its name, was the
Chamber of Green Clotli or Chamber
of Waterford, sometimes used by the
Mayor as a place of confinement for
refractory citizens. The palace in
which King John resided during his
stay at Waterford occupied the site
on which the Widows' Apartments
are built, and on the erection of
which the vaults of that ancient
structure were discovered." — Lewis,
There were also a Franciscan mo-
nastery, on the site of which was
established the Hospital of the Holy
Ghost ; and a Dominican priory, the
tower and belfry of which are stilt in
existence.
The cathedral is a large plain
building, with a lofty spire, and re-
placed (with the old materials) in
1773 the ancient ch., built by the
Ostmen of Waterford, in 1096. With
the exception of one or two monu-
ments it contains but little of in-
terest ; adjoining it are an extremely
comtbrtable^oolmig Bishop's Palace
and Deanery.
The R. C. Cathedral in Baron-
IRELA.ND.
Boute 28. — Duncamion — Hook Point,
259
strand Str. has a fine though dingy
front, and is said to have been built
for 20,000Z., all of which was defrayed
by pence taken at the door.
The neighbourhood of Waterford is
plentiluUy studded witJi seats, parti-
cularly on the banks of the river.
Facing the city are Rocksliire (R.
Morris, Esq.), River View, Belmont,
Barron Court (Sir Henry Barron),
Killaspey (A. Slierlock, Esq.^, Rock-
land, close to the ch., and Newpark
(G. BloomfielJ, Esq.).
Conveyances. — Rly. to Kilkenny,
Limerick, and Tramore; steamers
daily to Milford (with the mails),
twice a week to Bristol, once a week
to Glasgow, weekly to Plymouth,
twice a week to London, three times
to Liverpool, daily to Duncannon,
daily to New Ross. Car daily to
Borris, daily to Ennisoorthy, daily to
Gooldscross, daily to Dungarvan and
Lismore, daily to Youghal, daily to
Maryboro', daily to Wexford.
Distances. — Wexford, 37 m; New
Ross, 15 ; Duncannon, 10 J ; Dun-
brody, 7 ; Passage, 8 ; Thomastown
and Jerpoint, 20 ; Clonmel, 28 ; Car-
rick, 14; Portlaw, 10; Dungarvan,
21) ; Kilmacthomas, 15 ; Tramore, 7.
Excursions to New Ross by steamer,
Dunbrody, Dungannon by steamer,
Tramore and Dunmore.
[The sail to Passage and Duncan-
non is beautiful ; the river as far as
Cheek Point being bounded by high
wooded banks, from which in frequent
suoct^ssion pretty villas peep out. On
the 1. side Newpark (G. Bloomfield,
E:*].), Larkfield, Snowhouse, Spring-
field, Belview, Suirview (Mi-s. Brown-
ri^g), and Snow Hill (N. Power,
Esq.) ; on the rt. Belmont (W. Fitz-
gerald, Esq.), Blenheim, Billycanvon,
Woodland (P. Power, Esq.), and
Faithlegg (N. Power, Esq.).
About 2 m. down is the Little
L^land, on which is an uninhabited
castle ; and at 6 m. Cheek Point,
where the Barrow mixes its waters
with those of the Suir, which may
now be said to become an estuary.
At the head of a small pill on the
opposite shore the ruins of Dunbrody
Abbey (p. 256) are plainly visible in
their desolate grandeur. The river
widens from Cheek Point to 8 Jm. Pas-
sage, from whence there is a ferry to
Ballyhackand Arthurstown, where the
cliffs begin to show themselves. At
Ballyhack the tourist can get a car
and visit Dunbrody. Passing Dun-
brody, the seat of Lord Templemore,
the steamer soon arrives at
10 J m.Duncannon, a pleasant village,
trying hard to aspire to the dignity of
a watering-place. From the reign of
Henry H. a fort has existed here, for
the purpose of watehing the ap-
proaches to the harbour. It has
been garrisoned since the time of the
Spanish Armada, and occupies the
projecting cliff to the W. of the vil-
lage. •*The fortifications, including
the glacis, occupy about 3 statute
acres, and are adapted for mounting
40 pieces of cannon. It contains ac-
commodation for 10 officers and 160
men." — Fraser.
From Duncannon the road con-
tinues to skirt the coeist until it
reaches the villages of Slade and
Chiuxshtown, 2 villages at the end of
the singular promontory of Hook
Head, which juts out to the S. in a
narrow strip,^ barely f m. >vide. At
the extreme 'point is a fixed light,
at no great height above the sea.
The whole of this district is full of
interest. The point of Bag-an-brun
was the locale of the landing of
Strongbow and his adventurous band
on the 23rd of August, 1171, the
commencement of that career of con-
quest by which the English obtained
such an ascendancy in Ireland. The
geology of Hook Point consists of
coarse sandstones and conglomerates,
overlaid by carboniferous limestone,
remarkable for the variety and beauty
of the corals found in it — such as
Astroeopora, Michelina, and Zaphren-
tis ; also for the crinoids, of which
Actinocrinus, Platycrinus, Potcrio-
260
BotUe 28. — Wexford to Cork.
Trelaxd.
criims, and Rbodocrinos are the
most beautiful forma. — Harkness.
Shoulii the tourist have time, he may
p!oceed inland on the road to Wex-
ford, turning off to the rt. at Cur-
rapjhraore to Tin(em Abhey^ the seat
of J. Colclough, Esq. William Mar-
sliali. Earl of Pembroke, being ship-
wTccked on this coast in 1200, fouirded
this abbey, which he peopled from,
an.l named after, the more celebrated
establishment in Monmouthshire. Un-
fortunately the mansion was formed
out of the chancel, so that little but
the tower remains to identify it. The
eh. at Tintern contains a monument
to the Colclough family, temp.
Henry VIII., who, from holding
estates that once belonged to the
Cliurch, are ever more under the
•* curse of fire and water.**
The sandy estuary of Bannow Bay
appears to have been the boundary of
the district occupied by the English
settlers. It was then called the Pill,
according to Holinshede, who writes
that " Weisforde, with the territorie
baied and perclosed within the river
called the Pill, was so quite estranged
from Irishrie, as if a traveller of the
Iriah had pitcht his foote witldn the
i*ill and spoken Irish, the Weisfor-
dians would command him foorth-
with to turne the other end of his
toong and speako Englisli, or els
bringe his tronciiman with him.'*
Tiie ravages committed by sand are
exemplified in the old town of Ban-
now, of which no traces can be seen,
a ruined ch. being all that is left,
though we know that ft was of some
note as late as Charles I.'s reign.
At the mouth of the Corrock fs
ClonmineSt where in the time of the
Danes an ancient town existed of
sufficient importance to possess a
mint. Close to the river are the
tower and walls of the Dominican
monastery, founded by the Kava-
nnghs in the 14th cent.; and of the
Black Castle, built by the family
ctt' Sutton. There is also a picturesque
chapel witlx 2 turrets, said to have
been raised in memory of his mother
by a cowherd, and still called the
Cowboy's ChapeL From Cionmines
there is a road to Wexford direct, or
via Taghmon, up the vale of the Cor-
rock, passing Rosegarland (F. Leigh,
Esq.) and CoolcliUe House vSir W.
Cox).]
[The great attraction to the citizens
of Waterford is Tramore, whither
they betake themselves for sea-bath-
ing by a short railway of 7 m.
It leaves Waterford at the S. of
the town, and pursues a most un-
interesting route through sand-hills
to Tramore (the Great Hotel), a
pleasantly situated little watering-
place, and a retnarkably fine sea.
It is placed on a hill at the N.W.
comer of Tramore Bay ; a fine open
bay, though terribly exposed to the
southerly gales. The cliflEs on the
W. from Tramore to Great Newtown.
Head are bold and precipitous, but
eastward is a long extent of narrow
strand, which shuts oft' from the sea
a large lagoon, known as the Back
Strand. The only outlet of this im-
mense body of water is at the E.
boundary of the bay, where the cliflfe
again rise boldly, terminating at
Brownstown Head. A scheme has
been set on foot by Mr. Malcolmson,
the good genius of Waterford, for the
purpose of draining and reclaiming
the Back Strand, a plan which ought
to yield a very handsome profit even-
tually.
The pillars scattered along the
coast and on the promontories are
landmarks. The tourist who remains
at Tramore may excurse to Dunmore
(easier visited from Waterford), a
picturesque little bathing village,
with some interesting caves in the
cliffs. The geologist will find in the
neighbourhood of Tramore Lower
Silurian rocks of Bala and Caradoo
age.]
A coach leaves Waterford daily for
Dungarvan and Youghal.
For the first few miles the road is
uninteresting, all views of the river
Ireland,
Boute 28. — Kilmacthomas — Dungarvan,
261
on the rt., and the sea on the L, being
cut off by intervening high ground,
although the course of the Suir is
plainly marked as far as Clonmel.
At 41 m. the grounds of Whitfield
(W. Christmas, Esq,) on 1., ftnd Mount
Oongreve (J. Congreve, Esq.) on rt,
offer a pretty bit of landscape, and
soon the traveller gains distant views
of the Commeragh Mountains, part of
the great southern range that forms
the backbone of Waterford.
52 m. Kilmacthomas, an exposed
and bleak-looking Httle village, situ-
ated on either side the banks of the
Mahon, which, taking its rise on the
S. slopes of Knockanaffrin, 2336 ft,,
runs noisily down to the sea. [At
BoHmahon, a bathing vUlage some 5
m.'to the S., on the opposite side of
the stream, are the copper-mines of
Knockmahon, which, as regards
amount of produce, are the 2nd mines
in Ireland, yielding in 1858 4700
tons of ore, of the value of 42,500^.]
The mountain pedestiian may make
a very pleasant excursion from Kil-
macthomas to Lake Coomshingawn,
or Coimashenane, a deep tarn nearly
surrounded by a wall of rock — one
of the most romantic spots in the
country. The stream that issues
from it is u.ilised at the factory at
Portlaw. It lies about 6 m. to the N.,
amongst the Commeragh Mountains,
at-a height of 2500 ft. " The pre-
cipitous sides of these mountains pre^
sent a remarkable appearance as seen
from the land, exhibiting, from their
bold projections and deep-receding
cavities, vast masses of light and
shadow." — Fraser.
From Kilmacthomas, this same
range of hills, under the name of
the Monavullagh Mountains, trends
to the S.W., overlooking Stradbally
and Dungarvan, the road to the latter
place winding at their base, passing
on rt. Commeragh House, and on 1.
Sarahville. From the steep liill
above the Dalligan river a very
^ovely distant view is gained of Dun-
garvan, with its bay, and Helvick
Head in the distance,
63 m. rt. Clonooskoran, the seat of
Sir N. Humble, in whose grounds
there is a singiUar gap or pass in
the wooded range behind. From
hence it is 3 m. to
Dungarvan {Hotel, Devonshire
Arms, very bad), a seaport containing
very little of interest and an immense
deal of dirt (Pop. 5886). It was a
place of greater importance in early
times, and had the honour of se-
veral charters from various sove-
reigns. It was saved the fute of bom-
bardment by Cromwell, who was so
flattered by a woman drinking his
health at the entrance of the town,
that he spared it, A portion of tlie
keep of the castle, founded by King
John, stiQ exists ; but the most inte-
resting remains are at Abbeyside, a
district on the opposite shore of tlie -
harbour, which is connected witli
Dungarvan by a causeway and one-
arched bridge, crossing the Corrigan.
The Abbeyside ruins consist of a keep
of a fortress, erected by the M'Gratha,
who were also the founders of the
Augustine monastery, now incor-
porated with a E. C. chapel. A very
graceful tower, with some E. Eng.
arches, remain in statu quo, Tliere
is a pretty view from the ch-yard. of
the estuary and the opposite town.
Dungarvan is mainly the property of
the Duke of Devonshire, who has
effected many improvements, though
scavengering cannot be enumerated
among them. Should the tourist be
spending an afternoon here, he may
walk out 4 m. to Helvick Head, the S.
boundary of the harbour, where, if
the weather is at all rough, there
is sure to be a fine sea.
Distonces.— Stradbally, 8 m.; Bon-
mahon, 12J ; Kilmacthomas, 14 ;
Waterford, 29 ; Helvick, 7 ; Clonmel,
25 ; Colligan, 4 ; Ardmore, 14 ;
Youglial, 18.
Conveijances, — Coach daily to Wa-
terford, daily to Youghal, daily to Lis-
more; [car daily to Clonmel, -by a pic-
262
Route 28. — Wexford to Cork,
Ireland.
turesqne route over the high gronnds
between the Monavullagh and the
Knoekmeile-down Mountains. For
the first few miles the road winds by
the side of the glen of the Colligan,
a charming ravine, bordered on each
side by thick woods of birch and fir.
About 4 m. up is ColUgan, the seat
of J. Gallwey, Esq., overlooking the
glen and the distant bay of Dimgar-
van, and backed up by ranges of
mountains.
A still more charming view is
gained on the descent into the vaUey
of the Nier, a rapid and impetuous
stream, rising on me slopes of Knock-
anafirin, near the source of the Mahon.
As we descend this valley we pass
Ballymacarbry. a seat of Lord Strad-
brooke, and the residence of his agent,
A. Coates, Esq. ; and a little fui-ther
on Ballymakee (Oapt. MulcahyV
From this point the Nier oashes
off to the 1.. to fall into the Suir, the
road climbing a long hill, and even-
tually descending into the richly culti-
vated vale of the Suir. The main
points of scenic interest in this valley
are the noble peaks of the Galty moun-
tains on the 1„ with their peculiar
ravines and gullies (Rte. 30), and the
rounded boss of Slievenaman right
over Clonmel. At 25 m. the Suir is
crossed by a handsome stone bridge,
and the traveller enters Clonmel (Rte.
3')). HoteU : Heanie's, comfortable ;
Cantwell's,]
From Dungarvan to Youghal the
road is hilly. At Killongford Bridge,
6Si m.. it crosses the mouth of the
river Brickey, and ascends a low
range of hills that run in a S.E. di-
rection from the Blackwater, near
Lismore, to the Suir. At the 11th
m. from Dungarvan a detour should
be made to the 1. for 3 m. to Ardmore,
to visit its interesting remains.
They consist of a round tower,
cathedral, church, oratory, and well
— nearly all bearing the name of the
patron saint and early missionary
St. Declan, who was the son of a
noble family in the county of Water-
ford, and commenced his Chris-
tianising labours about the 5th cent.
Of all the buildings, the oratory is
the most ancient, and probably ot
the same date as St. Declan — a rude
primitive Uttie hut of 13 ft. long by
8 ft. broad, the door of which (now-
blocked up by accumulations of
earth) has its lintel formed of a
single stone. The side walls pro-
ject a little beyond the roof. It is
hghted by an E. window with a
single-piece circular head. There
was also a monastery founded by
Declan, which appears to have ar-
rived at considerable importance in
learned and ecclesiastical matters,
its heads usually ranking as bishops.
The Cathedral consists of a choir,
probably the earliest portion of the
building, which is separated from a
nave of later date by a remarkably
beautiful pointed arch with capitals
sculptured in the form of lotus-buds.
This portion was entered from the S.
by a doorway, now built up, and pre-
sents in the N. wall a course of ma-
sonry of rude and Cyclopean charac^
ter, probably of the same date as the
oratory. The nave is of the 11th
cent., called by Mr. Hayman "of
the Hibemo-Eomanesque style." It
was entered bv a doorway on the S.
(now blocked) and one on the N.,
containing a good round-headed
arch, within which a later poinfed
door has been inserted. The N.
wall of the nave contains not only
the 2 available windows, but also
decorations of arcsides of very early
Norman (Saxon?) date. The chief
beauty of design, however, is la-
vished on the W. gate, " which pre-
sents a series of sculptured niches of
elaborate execution. About 6 ft.
from the ground are 2 large semi-
circular compartments, enclosed in a
moulded string-course. In that to
the N. are 3 arched niches, the cen-
tral one containing a sculpture repre-
senting the Tree of Life, with the
serpent coiled roxmd the trunk, and
Ireland.
Boute 28, — Ardmore,
263
Adam and Eve standing on either
side. The right-hand niche of thid
compartment commemorates the con-
version of the Pagan Prince of the
Deisi. who. with his spear couched
and resting on his shoulder, bows
himself before the Christian mis-
sionary. The left-hand niche con-
tains an ox. At the top of the S.
compartment is the Judgment of
Solomon, and below it are 6 niches,
in the square niche to the extreme
left being the Virgin and Child, and
in the remaining 4 the Magi with
their Offerings." — Hayman. The
interior of the cathedml contains a
trefoil-headed canopy, a sepulchral
arch, and a couple of Ogham stones
discovered in 1854-5, one of which
commemorates the feet that "Lug-
hudh died in the sea on a day he
was a-fishing, and is entombed in the
grave's sanctuary ;" the other marks
the burial-place of " Amada."
The round tower is remarkably
perfect, and is 97 ft. in height, with
a coniotl cap somewhat thrown out
of the perpendicular by lightning.
The door is 13 ft. from the ground,
and has a bead decoration round the
edges. The tower is divided by
string-courses into 5 stories, all of
which may be viewed from the
interior by means of a ladder which
gives access to the door. " The
lower stories are lighted by splaying
spike-holes, some having square,
some having circular heads ; and, as
the visitor ascends, he meets gro^
tesque corbels at intervals, staring at
him from the concave walls. The
highest story has 4 tapered windows,
lacing the cardinal points. The
stone lintels remain over the opes
where the beam of the bell rested,
which, tradition says, was of so deep
and powerful a tone that it was
heard at Glean-Mhor, or the Great
Glen, 8 m. distant." — Hayman.
From excavations made at the
base of this tower by a number of
antiquaries, when two skeletons were
discovered, Mr. Windele deduced that
the round towers were used princi-
pally for sepulchral purposes — a con-
clusion which is argued against by
Mr. Petrie in his volume on the
Round Towers, p. SI.
8t. Dedans Well stands on a rather
precipitous rock, overhanging the
sea. Over the 2 doorways are rudely
sculptured efiBgies of the Crucifixion.
The festival of St. Declan is held on
the 24th July, when numbers of
devotees attend and pertbrm the
penance of crawling under St. De-
clan 's stone.
Close to the well is TeampuU Deis-
cart (Church of the South), supp^Jsed
to have been erected in the 13th
cent, by Moel-et^im O'Dhuibe
Rathra, Bishop of Ardmore. The
remains consist of a W. gable and 8.
wall, with a doorway in the latter
possessing •» the keystone of the
flat arch, on its bend, apparently in-
verted— a matter which has given
rise to much speculation ; but the re-
sult of a keen scrutiny will show
that it was so cut to the depth of a
few inches only, and that then it is
constructed as usual to meet the laws
of gravitation."
From Ardmore the pedestrian may
walk past Whiting Bay and Wood-
bine Hill, an ancient seat of the
Boche femily, to tlie Ferry. The
carriage-road takes a longer round,
rejoining the Dungarvan road at
Kinsalebeg, and passing Pilltown,
where slight remains of a castle of
the Walshes exist. It is said that a
small pill on which the village is
situated was at a very remote date
the ancient course of the Blackwater,
which emptied itself into Wliiting
Bay instead of that of Youghal. We
now cross the wooden bridge, built
of Memel fir, in 1829, by Nimmo, the
engineer, at a cost of 22,000Z. It is
1787 ft. long, and is supported on
57 piers, each pier being of 30 ft.
span. To connect tlie bridge with
the shore there is a causeway 1500
ft. in length, having iraversed which
264
Boute 2S.— Wexford to Cork.
Ireland.
the tourist enters the coanty of Cork,
and 84 m. the thriving seaport of
Touglicd (anc. Eochaill) (Rte.
29) {Hotel : Devonshire Arms) ;
a pretty and interesting town situ-
ated on the side of a hill, partly
wooded and partly rocky, overlook-
ing tiie mouth of the Blackwater,
which, immediately after passing the
bridge, swells out into a lagoon of
considerable size, though shallow
depth, with flat shores on either side.
Between the town and the ferry it
b.3Comes very much narrower, but
immediately widens again, while the
character of its banks change to
rocky and precipitous headlands.
The town (Pop. 6514) consists of
a main street over 1 m. in length,
with branches to the water's side;
and thrives, as is perceptible at
a glance, by its coasting -vessels
and trade. The tourist will, first
of all, visit the ch. of St. Maiy, a
beautiful collegiate building, lately
restored to its former magnificence
from the ruins in which it lay for so
many years. As long ago as 1681 it
is described by Dyneley " as being in
use, though much out of repaire. It
was antieatly a collegiate church, and
at this time sayd to be the Mrest
parish church of the province.'* This
establishment was founded in 1464
by the Earl of Desmond, and con-
sisted of a warden, 8 fellows, and
8 singing-men ; and the building, as
it 'stood prior to the restoration, was
of remarkably beautiful Dec. archi-
tecture.
Externally ' the ch. consists of a
nave with side aisles, a chancel with
battlemented waU — to wliich a sa-
cristy, now taken away, was once
attached — 2 transepts, with a tower,
the wall of which is 8 ft in thick-
ness. A round tower stood at the W.
end, and on the S. of the ch. a
mortuary chapel extended for some
distance. There is a good Early Eng.
W. door, with circular shafts and
clustered mouldings. On entering
this door is a round-headed arch
leading to the round tower. The
nave is separated from the side aisles
by 5 Early pointed arches on each
side. Notice in the N. transept a
singular obtuse-angled arch, sepa-
rating a little chapel from the middle
aisle ; a carved-oak pulpit ; a re-
stored monument to Hartford, Mayor,
1618; a double piscina; a monu-
ment to the Uniacke family, 1632 ;
Tobin's floor monument, 1517; Llew*
ellyn. Mayor of Youghal, 1628;
also a round-arched Norman tomb.
The N. aisle contains a curious
wooden cradle, in which the sword
of the corporation used to repose;
also the Early Eng. tomb and recum-
bent figure of the Earl of Desmond,
the founder of the ch. ; and an octa-
gonal font of black marble. On the
N. side of the chancel is the door of
the sacristy, and on the S. is one
leading into the college. It is lighted
by a good 6-light E. window of
stedned glass, contains an altar-tomb
to Thomas Fleming, and sedilia on
the S.W. Observe also above the
windows the apertures for reverbera-
tion. In the S. transept, otherwise
called the Lady Chapel, are the tombs
of Richard Bennett and the Earl of
Cork.
The ch.-yard is surrounded by the
town-walls of Youghal, fianked by
the Earl of Cork's ugly round towers
and 5 pieces of his artillery. Tlie
visitor should ascend the tower for
the sake of the view, which, though,
not extensive, is very pretty — era-
bracing on the N. the wooden
bridge over the Blackwater, -the
wooded hiUs above, and, in the ex*
treme distance, the summits of SUeve*
naman and the Knockmeiledown
Hills. On the E. is Ferry Point,
with its ch., while immediately under-
neath lies the town with its ruined
abbeys and populous streets in dose
juxtaposition.
To the N. of the ch. is the house
of Sir Walter Raleigh, who, in 1588-
89, was chief magistrate of Youghal^
where he was in the habit of en-
Ireland. Bouie 28. — KUleagh — Castlemartyr.
265
tertaining the poet Spenser. It is
now the property of S. W. Pine,
Esq., who allows visitors to inspect
the grounds. It is a perfect Eli-
zabethan gabled house, with some
of the rooms wainscoted and deco-
rated with carved oak, and is
said to contain a .subterraneous
passage from the dining-room to the
ch. In the garden is Raleigh's
yew-tree, where the knight, under
the influence of his beloved tobacco,
was in the habit of poring over his
fiivourite * Faerie Queen.' This gar-
den is also celebrated as being the
receptacle of the first potato planted
in Ireland. To the N. of the town
is the Dwninican Friary, founded in
1268 by Thomas Fitegerald, sur-
named the Ape. The remains con-
sist of ibe W. gable with;; its door-
way and a 3-light window, and a
portion of the arch connecting the
nave with the aisle. There are
also some traces of the St. John's
House of Benedictines, founded in
the 14th cent, and converted in the
reign of Charles II. into a storehouse
for keeping ammunition. The E.
wall of the chapel possesses a pointed
doorway, with ornamented spandrils,
and a few square-headed windows. '
Conveyances from Youghal. — Rail
to Cork ; a steamer in the summer
season to Cappoquin. Car to Water-
ford and Dungarvan.
Distances. — ^Ardmore, by the ferry,
5Jm.; Dungarvan, 18 ; Cappoquin, 16;
l2smore, 20 ; Strancally, 10 ; Rhin-
crew, 2J ; Middleton, 15 ; Cork, 21.
Excursions. —
1. Cappoquin and the Blackwater.
2. Castlemartyr.
3. Ardmore.
The remainder of the route from
Youghal to Cork is traversed by rly.,
and does not contain anything of
remarkable interest.
91 m. KtUeaghf a small town, ad-
joins the grounds of Ahadoe, where
the fcimily of Brooke have lived for
600 consecutive years— an unusual
tenure, which the peasantry have re-
llrcland..']
cognised by terming it " The Maiden
Estate," in allusion to its never
having been forfeited. The grounds,
which extend for a considerable dis-
tance up the romantic glen of the
Dusoin, are celebrated for their
beauty and the extent of the views.
A little to the 1. of Mogeely Stat.,
94 m., is the town and demesne of
Ca^Uemartyr, the former once a place
of considerable importance, as com-
manding the country between Cork
and Youghal, and the latter the
beautiful seat of the Earl of Shan-
non. Within the grounds are 2
ruined chs., and the remains of the
castle of Imokilly, which underwent
at different times much severe treat-
ment^ and was eventually taken after
a longish siege by Lord Inchiquin
in 1645. Passing Brookdale House,
we arrive at
99 m. Middleton, a neat and
pretty town of one long street
{Inn: Buckley's), chiefly remark-
able for its distilleries — one esta-
blishment alone, that of Messrs.
Murphy, producing 400,000 gallons
of whis^ annually. Wito this
exception there is nothing to see.
1 m. to the S. is BaUinacurra, a small
port at the mouth of the Owencurra
river, from whence the tourist may
run up to Cork by steamer, which
starts twice a-day. In the neigh-
bourhood of Middelton, near the
rly., are Cahermore (Viscount Mid-
dleton), in the grounds of which are
the ruins of a castle ; Roxborough ;
Killeagh; Broomfield (D. Hum-
phries, Esq.) ; Ballyedmond (J.
Courtney, Esq.) ; and Ballyrua-
Glashy (H. Wilson. Esq.).
103 m., passing Carrigtuohill Stat,
near which a number of subterranean
chambers were discovered in 1835,
the rly. traverses one of the innu-
merable mazes of Lough Mahon,
and soon joins the Queenstown Rly.,
continuing along the bank of the
Lee to Cork (Rte. 37). Hotels : Impe-
rial, very excellent ; Victoria, pretty
good.
K
2G6
Boute 29. — Toughdl to Cahir,
Ireland,
ROUTE 29.
FBOM YOUGHAL TO CAHIR, THBOUOH
LISMORE AND FERMOY.
By this route the tourist follows
the vale of the Blackwater, which,
more than any other river in Ireland,
abounds in scenery of a high order,
with many interesting ruins and
remains. During the summer a
steamer leaves Youghal to make the
excursion up the river about 3 times a
week, but, as the navigation extends
only to Oappoauin, the rest of the
journey has to be performed by road
and rail. Inquiries should be made
at Cork as to the times of sailing,
which are somewhat uncertain. The
Blabkwater, spoken of by the poet
Spenser as
" Swift Awnldnffe. which by the Englishman
Ig callde Blackewater " —
has a course of nearly 80 m., taking
its rise in the mountain of Slieve-
logher, on the borders of counties
Cork and Kerry, and flowing thence
nearly due E. past Mallow, Fermoy,
Lismore, and Oappoquin, at which
point it turns S. to enter the sea at
the bay of Youghal.
On leaving the pier at Youghal,
the steamer approaches the Ferry
Point, where, in 1645, Lord Castle-
haven made a vain attempt to bom-
bard the town; ftom thence passes
through the long wooden bridge
built by Nimmo (Rte. 28); and
at once entors the narrows of the
river, which are flanked on the 1.,
near the confluence of the Towing
with the Blackwater, by the wooded
hill of Ehincrew (Rinn-cru — Point of
Blood). On the summit are the
dilapidated ruins of the fortress of
the same name, formerly a precep-
tory of the Knights-Templars, and
founded by Raymond Le Gros in the
12th cent. They appear to have
consisted of an irregular quadrangle,
containing chapel, cloisters, refectory,
Mtehen, and dormitories; the refec-
tory stands at right angles to the
chapel, possesses a portion of vaulted
roof, and is lighted by 7 narrow,
deeply-splayed windows. At the N,
end of me refectory is the kitchen,
and above it are the walls of the dor-
mitories. On the opposite bank is
Ardsallagh House (J. Bonayne, Esq.),
and at the junction of the Glen-
dine river on 1. 4 m. Temple Mi-
chael ch. and castle — a square
keep,«with a round flanking tower on
the N.E. On the N. bank of the
Glendine is Ballynatray, the beautiful
seat of the Hon. 0. M. Smyth.
Close to the bank of the Blackwater,
and, in fact, joined to the mainland
bv a causeway, are the ruins of the
abbey of Molana, founded in the 6th
cent, by St. Molanfide for Augus-
tinians. To commemorate this fact a
statue of the saint in his Augustinian
robes was erected by a late owner of
Ballynatray in the quadrangle of the
abbey — ^tho same lady depositing a
funeral urn in memory of Raymond
Le Gros, who, according to the au-
thority of the Carew MS8., was buried
here in 1186.
On the S. bank of the Glendine
is Chenymount (Lady Thackwell),
and on the opposite side of the
Blackwater is Loughtane (S. Allin,
Esq.), a former seat of the Bluetts,
temp. Henry VIII. The river here
slightly widens, and a small pill
Ireland.
Boute 29. — Ca/ppoquin — lAsmore.
267
runs in from Clashmore, the property
of the Earl of Huntmgdon, who ob-
tained it by marriage into the family
of Power.
7 m. 1. are the ruins of StrancaUy
CasUe, "Strath-na-Caillighe," "The
Hags' Holm" — finely placed on a
rock overlooking the river. In this
rock is a cave or chamber, popularly
known as the "Murdering Hole,**
concerning which a legend is current
that one of the lords of the castle was
in the habit of making his guests
merry with wine, and then despatch-
ing them in this cave for the sake of
adding their possessions to his own.
Passing the ferry of Cooneen, we
leave on 1. StrancaUy New Castle
(G. W. Lloyd, Esq.), very prettily
situated, together with Headborough
House ( — Smythe, Esq.), at the junc-
tion of the Bride witii the Black-
water. The former is a fine castel-
lated building, from a design by Mr.
Payne of Cork.
12 m. Yillierstown, a small village,
where the Earl of Grandison vainly
tried to establish the linen tnanufao-
ture.
Higher up, on rt., is Dromana Forest
and House (the seat of Lord Stuart
de Decies). In the groimds are the
remains of an old fortress of the Des-
monds, in which was bom " Catherine,
the old Countess of Desmond, who,
at the age of 140 yeaxs, presented
herself at the English Court to peti-
tion James I. for her jointure, of
which the attainder of the last Earl
of Desmond had deprived her. The
cherry was first domesticated in this
oounfry at Afi&ne, near Dromana,
having been brought from the Canary
Isles by Sir Walter Raleigh ; and the
Countess's death is attributed to have
taken place in consequence of a fall
from a high branch of a favourite
cherry-tree." — Hayman. As the course
of the river is ascended, the tourist
approaches the hiUs which have
been looming in the distance, and
are very beautifully grouped. The
highest point is Knock-meile-down
(Cnoc-maol-dun, — bare, brown hill),
2069 ft., the summit of the lofty
chain of hills between Lismore and
Clonmel.
At 15 m. Af^e waa bom Valen-
tine Greatorex, celebrated for his
so-called miraculous power of curing
diseases by stroking the hand of the
individual. He lived in the 17th
cent. Af&ne House is the seat of S.
Power, Esq. On opposite bank is
Tourin (Sir Kichard Musgrave, Bart.).
Higher up, near the ruin of Norm-
island Castle, the navigation partly
ceases in consequence of the shallow-
ness of the river.
17 m. Cappoquin (Hotel : Power's)
is a charmingly placed town at the
bend of the Blackwater, where it
turns to the S. The castle, of which
there are no remains, was besieged
and taken by Lord Castlehaven in
1645. The river is crossed by a stone
bridge, which replaced a singular tim-
ber viaduct built by the Earl of Cork.
Overlooking the town are the pretty
grounds of Cappoquin House (Sir John
Keane). It is an interesting excursion
from here to the monastery of Mount
Melleray, a convent of Trappists,
on the slopes of the mountains
about 4 m. to the N. It is a largo
quadrangular building, the sides of
tne square occupied by refectories,
kitehens, dormitories, and chapel.
The whole of the district was ex-
tremely bleak and wild, but the
labours of the brethren have very
much improved its extemal appear-
ance. From Cappoquin are 2 charm-
ing roads, one on each side the
river, to
21 m. Lismore {Hotd: Devon-
shire Arms). The foimdation of the
bishopric is ascribed to St. Carthagh,
in the 7th cent., whose establish-
ment soon attracted not only many
learned and pious men, but others of
less peaceful tendencies, such as the
Danes and Ossorians, who repeatedly
burnt the town until the erection of
a castle by John Earl of Morton
in the 12th cent. This fortress
N 2
268
Boute 29. — Toughed to Cdhir,
Ireland.
was the -^sideiioe of the bishops
of the diocese until it was granted
by Neil Magrath to Sir Walter Ra-
leigh, who sold it to the Earl of
Cork, from whom it eventually came
by marriage to the present owner,
4he Duke of Devonshire. Ldsmore
is placed at a considerable height
above the river, which is crossed
by a stone - bridge of remarkably
good span. On the brink of the
water is the castle, a lofty and exten-
sive pile of building; the greater
part is the work of the 2nd Earl of
CJork. •* The first doorway is called
the Riding-house, from its being ori-
ginally built to accommodate 2 horse-
men who mounted guard, and for
whose reception there were 2 spaces,
which are still visible under the arch-
way." Over the gateway are the
arms of the Earl of Cork, with the
motto " God's protidence is our in-
heritance.*' The interior of the castle
is beautifully fitted up, and has within
the last few years been decorated by
the hands of Mr.Crace. The entrance
saloon and the dining-room are both
splendid apartments, although the
drawing-room carries off the palm,
from the exquisite view from the
windows. The castle is stiU in pro-
cess of remodelling. One of the win-
dows is c«lled King James's win-
dow, from the circumstance of his
entering the room, and starting
back in a fright at suddenly see-
ing the great depth at which the
river flowed below, an appearance
which is due to the great difference
of level ^Detween the N. and the S.
fronts. The view from the upper
rooms up and down the Blackwater is
(me of the most beautiful in the S. of
Ireland, and embraces the heights
of Knockmeiledown and the town of
Cappoquin. The cathedral ch. of St.
Oarthagh, which possesses an ex-
tremely graceful wliite limestone
spire, was restored and almost
re-edified by the Earl of Cork in
1603, and has since had many ad-
ditions; the cIkht contains some
stained glass, and a monument to the
family of Magrath, 1548. "This
building was held in such veneration
by the Irish that, in 1173, Raymond
le Qroa found, when wasting the
Dedes country, that the easiest mode
of extracting a heavy black-mail lay
in the threat of burning down the
cathedral." The ecclesiastical annals
of Lismore do not include anything
of note, either in the roll of bishops
or the history of the diocese ; but the
parish can boast of being the birth-
place of two celebrated men — Robert
Boyle the philosopher, and Con-
greve the poet. To the E. of the
town is a rath, which gave the
name of Lis Mot (Great Fort).
The neighbourhood of Lismore is
richly adorned with weU-wooded
seats and plantations, the principal
of which are Salterbridge ( R. Cheam-
ley, Esq.), Bellevue, Ballyrafter,
Ballyinn ( — Kane, Esq.), Glen-
cairn Abbey (G. P. Bushe, Esq.),
Fortwilliam, and Ballysaggartmore,
the elaborate Gothic residence of
A. Usher, Esq.
Conveyances. — Coach to Waterford,
through Dungarvan.
Distances, — Youghal, 21 m. ; Cap-
poquin, 4 ; Mallow, 83 ; Fermoy, 16 ;
Tallow, 4 ; [the latter a village to the
S.W. on the Bride, which is navig-
able up to this point.
Close to the village is the castle
of Lisfinny, a strong, square tower of
3 stories, once the residence of the
Desmonds, but now incorporated
with the modem house of Major
Croker. From the battlements is a
charming view of the vaUey of the
Bride.
Between Tallow and Rathcormack
is Britway, which contains an inte-
resting old ch. ; the doorway has a
flat architrave, carried along the
sweep of the arch till it terminates
in a curious figure in the keystone.
About 4 m. W. of Tallow is the
lofty square tower of Conna on a
high limestone rock overlooking the
Bride.]
Ireland.
Botde 29. — Fermoy.
26^
From Lismore the road continnes
along the N. or 1. bank of the Black-
water, passing Ballysaggartmore and
Flower Hill (B. Drew, Esq.), to 27
m. Ballyduff. On the opposite bank
are Glencaim, Fortwilliam, Bally-
gally, and Glenbeg. At Ballyduff
the river is crossed. A little further,
29 m. rt., is the ruin of MeujoUop Castle,
and 33 m. on the same side Kil-
murry (T. Grant, Esq.).
37 m. Fermoy {Hotel: Queen's
Arms) has grown up to its present
importance entirely within the last
60 or 70 years. At that time there
were only a few cabins; but a Mr.
Anderson built an hotel and some
good houses, and finally entered into
an arrangement for the erection of
some barracks with the Govern-
ment, which was anxious to form a
central military depot ; as such it has
answered the purpose, and is now
one of the largest stations in Ireland.
The barracks are on the N. side of
the river, and are divided into
two establishments, called the E.
and W. barracks, to accommodate
nearly 3000 men. Those on the
W. were for some time used as
the Union House. The greater part
of the town is on the S. bank of the
Blackwater, which is crossed by a
bridge of 13 arches. It is spacious
and well built, having been care-
fully laid out by Mr. Anderson, who
benefited the district by roadmaking
and establishing mail-coaches, some-
what after the fashion of Mr. Bian-
ooni. He also built a large military
school, now called the College. Al-
though Fermoy is a modem town,
there are several antiquities in the
neighbourhood. The scenery, more-
over, is extremely pretty, the river-
banks being of the same elevated
character as in the rest of its course,
and ornamented with many an over-
hanging plantation and pretty villa.
Close to the town are the well-planted
grounds of Fermoy House. 1 m. to
l^e E. are the ruined towers of Car-
rigabricki and Liclash' Oastles, on the
S. and N, banks respectively.
Conveyances, — Rail to Mallow ; car
to Mitchelstown.
Distances. — Mallow, 17 m.; Mit-
chelstown, 10 ; the Caves, 16 ; Cahii,
27 ; Lismore, 16 ; Cappoquin, 20.;
Batbcormack, 4^ ; Kilworth, 3»
JExcursumsr-^
1. Mallow.
2. Lismore.
3. Glanwortht
4. Mitchelstown and Caves.
[The Journey from Fermoy to
Mallow is usually performed by the
rly., which, by keeping on high,
ground, does not allow many of the
beauties of the Blackwater to be
visible. To the N. the high ranges
of the Knockmeiledown have disr
appeared, but on the S. is a new
chain of hills, known as the Nagles
Mountains, of which the heights of
Enock-naskagh, 1406 ft., and Corran,
1345 ft., are most conspicuous. Quit-
ting Fermoy by the road, the tourist
passes Castle Hyde(.T. Hyde, Esq.),
Cregg Castle (T. Hyde, Esq.), and
Templemore, on the N. bank, and
Cregg O'LympiT on the S. The
scenery is particularly pretty at Bally--
hooly, where a road is given off ri to
CasUerock, and 1. to M^ow (crossing
ttie river) and Cork.
Near Ballyhooly are the seats gL
Convamore (Earl of Listowel), Benny
(F. Blackbume, Esq.), and Wood-
viUe (B. Gibbings, Esq.).
At 19 m. Castletownroche Station
the line crosses the Awbeg (Spenser's
Mulla, p. 237) at its confluence with
the Blackwater. The village lies
nearly 1 J m. rt., and is picturesquely
situated on the Awbeg, which runs
between precipitous banks. Incorpo*
rated^with Caslle Widenham is the old
keep of the fortress of the Boches,,
wldch was defended in 1649 by Lady
Boche for many days against Crom*
well's army. The ch. is remarkable for
an octagonal spire ; " the lower stage is
pierced with a window en every h/oe^
270
Bouie 29. — Toughed to Cahir,
Ibeland.
the copings of which form a zigzag
omament continued all round."
Close to the village is Glananoie,
and higher up the Awbeg are Bally-
walter (R. Welsted, Esq.), Rockvale,
and Annsgrove (R. Annesley, Esq.).
Near the station are the remains of
the abbey of Bridgetown, founded in
the reign of King John by Fitzhugh
Roche. Oa 1. Clifford (C. Tisdale,
Esq.) and Caringunna Castle (H.
Foot, Esq.), near the village of Killa-
willin, where the Blackwater is again
spanned by a bridge.
Passing Carrig House (W. Franks,
Esq.), Rockforest (Sir J. Cotter),
Ballygarrett (W. Creagh, Esq.), the
traveller reaches 17 m. Mallow {Hotel:
Queen's Arms). Rte. 25.]
The first point between Fermoy
and Mitchelstown is 3 m. Kilioorth, a
village at the foot of the Kilworth
Mountains, and equidistant from the
streams of the Funshion and the
Douglas, both tributaries of the Black-
water.
[Two excursions can be made from
here: — 1. on the 1. to Glanworth,
5 m., following the valley of the
Funshion, and passing Glenwood, the
ruins of Ballyhindon Castle, ^and
Ballyclogh House, the Elizabethan
seat of Ciipt. Barry.
Glanworth is worth a visit, not only
from its picturesque position, but on
account of the castle, formerly a resi-
dence of the Roche family. The
remains consist of a square keep and
an addition of later date, in which
were the state apartments. They are
defended by a quadrilateral curtain
wall flanked by round towers.
A little to the N. of the village are
the remains of the Dominican abbey,
an E. Eng. ch. foimded in the 13th
cent, by the Roches. A tower rises
from the junction of the nave and
chancel, resting on 4 graceful arches.
From Glanworth the tourist may re-
turn direct to Fermoy 5 m., without
revisiting Kilworth.
The 2nd excm-sion is through the
romai^tic glen of the Araglin, a stream
which rises at the foot of the Knock-
meiledown hills, and falls into the
Douglas some distance below Kil-
wordi. It is particularly picturesque
at Castle Cooke, the residence of W.
Cooke CoUis, Esq.]
Adjoining Kilworth are Mary Ville
(L. Oorban, Esq.), Moore Parit (Earl
of Mountcashel), Ballynacarriga, and
Rushmount (A. Geran, Esq.). The
road now ascends, crossing tiie Kil-
worth hills at an elevation of 750 ft.
On the 1., near the highest point, is
the soUtary and ruined tower of
Caherdrinney.
47 m. Mitcltdstovm {Hotel : Kingston
Arms) is a very neat, pretty little place
in an elevated valley between the
Kilworth and Galty Mountains, which
rise immediately above the town in
splendid abruptness. The great
attraction is the castle, a fine mo-
dem castellated building, and the
&mily seat of the Earls of Kingstown.
Visitors are admitted on application
to view the house and the groimde,
which are very delightful, and which
from their elevation command exten-
sive views. A castle was erected
here by the White Knight, whose
heiress Margaret Fitzgerald married
Sir William Fenton. His daughter
again brought the property by mar-
riage into file possession of Sir John
King, created Baron Kingstown by
Charles II. The present building
was from designs by Mr. Pain, and
cost 100,000i. ; the principal entrance
being flanked by 2 square towers, one
of which is called the White Knight's
Tower ; the entrance hall is 80 ft. in
length, and adorned wiih a fine
groined roof. Indeed the whole ar-
rangements both externally and in-
ternally combine to make Mitchels-
town one of the finest residences in
Ireland.'
Close to the park is the town, in
which the noticeable features are a
Perp. ch. with octagonal spire, a hand-
some Roman Catholic chapel, and
Kingstown College, an asylum founded
Ireland. Boute 30. — Limerick to Waierford,
271
by Lord EingstoTvn for decayed gen-
tlefolk.
Distances — The Oaves, 6 m. ; Oahir,
17 ; Fermoy, 10.
The road to Cahir lies at the
foot of the Galty Mountains, which
present on their southern face a
very much finer aspect than on the
northern side. Galtymore, 3015 ft., and
Galtybeg, are the most lofty points of
this magnificent range. The Fun-
shion is crossed at Kilbeheny, and
again at Brackbaun, not £ar from
which point is a public-house, where
the visitor to the caves should stop,
wocure guides, and change dresses.
The opening of the Mitchelstown
Caves, so ccdled because they hap-
pened to be on part of the Mitchels-
town estate, is situated about 60 ft.
above the level of the road. As is
commonly the C8ise with caverns of
any size, they occur in the carboni-
ferous or mountain limestone, and
are remarkable for their extent and
the beauty of the stalactites; they
are divided into the new and old
cave, the fomjer being the one usu-
ally visited. "A narrow passage of
about 4 ft. in height and 33 in length,
and sloping at an angle of about 30^
with the horizon, terminates in an
almost vertical precipice, 15 ft. in
depth, down which the visitor passes
by a ladder. Advancing forward,
the floor resumes its original angle
of inclination, which it maintains
for the distance of about 28 ft. It
now becomes nearly horizontal, and
continues so for 242 ft., imtil the
opening into the lower middle cave
is reached. This is one of very con-
siderable magnitude. In shape its
ground-plan resembles a bottle with
cylindric neck and globular bottom,
the vertical section of its wider end
being that of a dome or hemisphere.
From the southern extremity of this
chamber a ptissage of 60 ft. in length
leads to the upper middle cave, the
most remarkable part of the entire
cavern, from the magnitude, beauty,
and fantastic appearance of its sparry
productions." — Apjehrt, The stalac-
tites and the stalagmites are the prin-
cipal beauties ; and of these there are
every variety, from the slender column
of spar to broad sheets, like drapery,
so thin as to be transparent. The
principal featiures are the Drum,
the Pyramid, the Table, the Kiver,
the Organ, the Garret Oave, the
Kingstown GaUery, the Land Cave ;
all of which are duly pointed out
by the guides. The visitor cannot
see the whole series imder 2 or 3
hours, and wiU have to undergo a
considerable amount of rough walk-
ing, squeezing, and sUpping. The
road to Cahir is very fine, being on
a descent, from which noble views
are gained of the valleys of the Suir
and the parallel ranges of the Knock-
meiledowns. On the slopes of these
latter hiUs is the village of Clogheen,
on the road from Mitchelstown to
Ardfinan, and near it is Shanbally
Castle, the seat of Lord Lismore.
64 m. Cahir {Hotel: Glengall
Arms). Etb. 30.
KOUTE 30.
FROM LIMERICK TO WATERFORD.
This route is performed by the
Limerick and Waterford Rly., an im-
portant line of 77 m. in length, which
not only connects 2 of the principal
southern ports, but, until the con-
struction of the direct Cork and
272
Boute 30. — Limerick to Waterford, Ireland.
Limerick Rlj^ was the only means
of tranait between the 2 latter places.
Leaving the town by the jomt station,
the line gives off the Foynes, Ennis,
tiud Killaloe branches, and runs
b.W., passing through an open and
pictures(|ue country, affording fine
distaut views on the L of the filllaloe
Hills, Mount Keeper, and the hills
running up towards Nenagh.
4} m. Killonan Stat; and 8 m.
Boher : the latter . being the station
for Odherconlish, a little town about
2 m. to rt
On 1. are the scanty ruins of
Butler's Castle, formerly an old resi-
dence of the Bourke family ; and on
the slopes of the distant hills may be
seen the woods of Glenstall, the
beautiful seat of Sir M. Barrington.
11 m. Dromkeen, between which
and Pallas, 14 m. on rt., is Linfield
House (Rev. M. Apjohn).
Near Pallas, the Slievefelim moun-
tains to the N. are conspicuous fea-
tures, occupying an area E. and W.
between Thurles . and Limerick.
Slieve Oallan, the highest point, is
1523 ft. ; Mauherslieve, or Mother
Mountain, 1783 ; and the geological
composition of the range is for the
most part Lower Silurian, though
*• the outer slopes of the mountains,
and some of the lesser elevations
overlooking the low country, are
formed of old red sandstone, which
rests uncomformably upon the Silu-
rian; and where the slope of the
ground is gentle, frequently runs up-
wards over the lower rock to eleva-
tions of 1200 and even 1400 ft"—
Geol, Survey.
In the neighbourhood of Pallas,
carboniferous limestone is the pre-
vailing stratum, although there are
numerous instances of trap rock ; and
in a wood close to Linfield House
a fine fei^ade of basaltic columns may
be seen.
8 m. 1. of Pallas is Oastlegard.
18 m. Oola Stat On a hUl on 1.
is Oola Castle, one of those square
fortified mansions erected by English
settlers, probably in the time of
Elizabeth. It was destroyed by Gen.
Sarsfield, who surprised it by a night
attack, and blew it up, together
with a quantity of ammunition
brought hither by William HI. On
rt. of line is Castle Lloyd (H. Lloyd,
Esq.), and, 2 m. distant, Derk (H.
Considine, Esq.).
22 m. Limerick Junction (Rte. 25),
where passengers boimd for Dublin
and Cork diverge N. and S. Not
£ax from the station is Ballykisteen,
the Irish residence of Lord Stanley.
The traveller is now in Tipperary^
and soon approaches, 5 m., the
capital of a county as fertile and
prolific as any kingdom might wish
to possess, though, alas ! to a great
extent vitiated by the agrarian
acts for which Tipperary has be-
come so inGokmous in the social
history of Ireland, a notoriety un-
fortunately not limited to this county
only. Indeed there can be no greater
proof of the richness and consequent
value of land in this district than the
fact that it fetches a higher price in
the market than any lands in the
neighbouring counties, notwithstand-
ing the insecurity of life that so
often threatens the resident land-
lord. Although a modern built
town (Hotel: Dobbyns), Tipperary
(Tiprarae, "the well of the plains")
dates from the time of King John,
who built a castle here. Henry
HI. also founded a monastery for
Augustinians; and it is to be pre-
simied that society in those days was
better ordered, as we find a grant
made by Edward H. to the •' bailifis
and good men of Tippemry of murage
for 3 years." An arched gateway is
all that is left of the abbey, and is,
indeed, the only remains of antiquity
in the town.
It is pleasantly bidlt and laid out,
and the situation at the foot of the
glorious Gralty range is very charm-
ing. In the near vicini^ of the
town are Sadlier's WeUs, Boesboro*,
Ibexand. Boute 30. — Odlty Mountaint — Cdhir.
275
Greenane (B. Mansergh, Esq.), and
Scalaheen (W. Sadleir, Esq.). •
Conveyances: — Rail to Limerick
and Waterford; car daily to Lime-
rick.
Distances : — Limerick, 25 m. ;
Waterfoid, 52; Limerick Junction,
2; Caher, 14^; Oashel, 12; Gal-
bally, 9^ ; Atlmssel, 9. [The ruins
of Athassel (anc. Ath-an-tuisU) are
beautifiiMy placed about IJ m. below
the yiUage of the same name, on the
banks of 3ie Suir, which here assumes
the proportions of a considerable
stream.
The road from Tipperary turns off
near the demesne of Thomastown
Castle, the residence of Viscount
Ohabot, and formerly of the Earl of
Llandaff. The Abbey of Athassel was
founded at the close of the 12th cent,
by Will. Burke, or De Burgo, and was
a large and magnificent E« Eng.
building, the choir, which overlooks
the river, being 44 ft. in length, and
lighted by a series of lancet windows.
The visitor should notice in particu-
lar the deeply-recessed and rounded
doorway, above which is a blocked
pointed arch, with delicate shafts,
the whole being enclosed by a trian-
gular or straight-sided pointed archr
In the interior are the tomb and
effigy of the founder, who died within
the walls.]
29^ m. Bansha Stat. On rt. are
Bansha Wood, the Castle (O. Ryan,
Esq.), and on 1. Lismacore, the seat
of H. Baker, Esq. Crossing the
Aherlow, and leaving on 1. Kilmoyler
(F. O'Meagher, Esq.), the line enters
the long vale of the "goodly Shure,"
by the side of which it completes the
remainder of the journey to Waterford.
At this point we approach very near
the base of the dalty Mountains,
where the AJierlow valley joins that
of liie Suir.
This large and important group
occupies an area which may be
broadly defined by the boundary
points of Cahir, Tipperary, Kil-
mallook, Kildorrery, and Mitchels-
town ; although the western por-
tion, known as the Ballyhoura hills,,
overlooking Buttevant, are somewhat
divided from the main group by a
depression between Mitchelstown
and Galbally. Here the Aherlow
rises, taking a northerly course as
&r as the laslrnamed town, and
then turning to the W. The true
Galty range is not only lofty, but
peculiarly conspicuous and pictu-r
resque from its sudden elevation
from the plains of Tipperary, and
for the bold escarpments and preci-*
pitous gullies on every side, but more
particularly on the S., which feces
the Knockmeiledown Mountains^
and overlooks Mitohelstown. The
summit of Galtymore, 3015 ft., is
plainly visible from any of the
Killamey hills, and is one of the
3 highest points in the S. of L-e-
land. The whc^ of the Galty
range is composed of old red sand-
stone, which rises up from under the
limestone of Mitehelstown Valley.
Here old red beds rest on Lower*
Silurian rocks, as may be seen on
the S. side of the range, in the re-
markable excavation, Pigeon Rock
Glen, " where, at the upper end of
the Coolatinny stream, the Lowev
Silurian in the bed of the rock for
about ^ m. is covered on either
side by beds of old red, that
appear one above another in the
sides of the glen, uniting above in
consequence of the rise of ground,
and below in consequence of their
own dip becoming ^eater than that
of the slope of the hill." — Oeological
Survey, The botanist will find on
Galtymore Carex rigida, Saxifraga
hirta, and Ranunculus hirsutus.
The rly. now turns to the S. to
38 m. Cahir {Hotel: Glengall
Arms), a thriving town of some
3500 Inhab., in the midst of charm-
ing scenery and well-kept estates.
From its situation in a rich com
country, Cahir is a great place for
flour-mills, an immense lot of wheat
being annually sent to Waterford.
N 3
274
Bouie 30. — Limerick to Waier/crd, iRELAisn).
The principal object of interest in the
town, which, by the way, is unusually
clean and well kept, is the Castle,
which stands on an island in the
Suir. Although modernised to a great
extent, it was originally built in
1142, by Connor, Kmg of Thomond.
Notwithstanding its age, there is but
little history attached to it, except
that it underwent a short siege by
Lord Inchiquin, and 2 or 3 years
later by Cromwell.
" It is of considerable extent, but
irregular outline, consequent upon
its adaptation to the form and broken
surface of its insular site, and con-
sists of a great square keep, sur-
rounded by extensive outworks,
forming an outer and inner vallum,
with a small courtyard between the
two, these outworks being flanked
by 7 towers, 4 of which are circular,
and 3 of larger size square. The
ancient and proper name of the town
is Cahir-duna-iascaigh, or the * cir-
cular stone fortress of the fish-
abounding dun or fort,* a name
which appears to be tautological,
and which can only be accounted
for by the supposition that an earthen
dun or fort had originally occupied
the site on which a cahir or stone
fort was erected subsequently.
Examples of names formed in this
way, of words having nearly synony-
mous meanings, are very numerous
in Ireland, asCaislean-dun-more, the
castle of the great fort, and as the
Irish name of Cahir Castle itself,
which, after the erection of the pre-
sent building, was called Caislean-
na-caherach-duna-iascaigh, an appel-
lation in which 3 distinct Irish names
for military works of different classes
and ages are combined." — Penny
Joum.
At present this castle, which, for-
tunately for English tongues, has
not kept its Irish name, is used as a
dep6t for the Tipperary militia.
The tourist should visit the de-
mesne of Cahir House, which
stretches for about 2 m. alongside of
the Suir, and is one ci the best laid-
out and most beautiful estates in tbe
county. " The Cottage" is a fiaivourite
resort for its picturesque and secluded
locality. This fine estate was long
the property of the Earls of Glengall,
but waj3 unfortunately brought into
the Encumbered Estate Court, and
changed hands like many another
noble Irish property. In the neigh-
bourhood of Cahir are also Cahir
Abbey (R. Grubb, Esq^, Lough-
lohery (W. Quin, Esq.), fiallydavid
fG. Baker, Esq.), and Bochestown
(8. Barton, Esq.).
Conveyances. — Rail to Limerick
and Waterford ; car to Cappoquin.
Distances. — Waterfcard, 39 m.
Clonmel, 11 ; Tipperary, 14^
Mitchelstown, 18; tne Oaves, 7
Ardfinane, 5 ; Cashel, 11.
[Mitchelstown cavesmay be visited
fix>m here (Rte. 29), as well as Ard-
finane, "the hill of St. Finian,"
the leper, who founded here a mo-
nastery in the 7th cent The in-
terest of Ardfinane, however, is due
not to this, but to a castle built by
King John when Earl of Morton. It
is a large, rambling ruin, of quad^
rangular shape, and flanked by square
towers at the comers, two of which
are in very good preservation. Its
position on a steep, precipitous rock
overlooking the Suir, and with a
background of the distant ranges
of the Galty and Knockmeiledown
Hills, has a flne effect. The castle
is said to have been granted after its
erection to the Knights Templars, and
was considered one of the strongest
Irish fortresses until its destruction
by Cromwell, who planted his cannon
on the opposite hill. The Suir is
crossed by a remarkably long bridge
of 14 arches, carrying the road from
Clonmel to Cork. The tourist may,
instead of returning to Cahir, proceed
at once to Clonmel, 8 m.] From
Cahir the rly. takes another swe^
to the S., and passing 1. Lough-
lohery House, and Woodruff House
Ireland.
B(mte 30. — Clonmd.
275
(W. Peny, Esq.)* gradually reap-
proaches the valley of the Suir.
49 m. Cl(mmd {Hotd: Hearae's,
comfortable ; Cantwell's) is decidedly
the cleanest and most business-like
inland town in the 8. of Ireland,
and is, moreover, graced with ex-
tremely pretty outskirts, diversified
with wood and water. The exporta-
tion of grain is the principal business,
although at different times efforts
have been made to establish cotton
and woollen manu&ctures — ^the latter
as far back aa 1667, when 500 Wal-
loons were brought over from Canter-
bury by the Duke of Ormonde, the
then Lord-Lieutenant. Olonmel was
a fortified town, and bravely resisted a
long siege at the hands of Cromwell,
although the garrison was even-
tually obliged to yield. The re-
mains of Sie walls surround the
churchyard, and are strengthened at
intervals by square towers. The west
gate, the only one left out of the four,
has been kept in good repair, and
stands at the entrance of tlie main
street. Si Mary's is an interesting ch.,
and is overshadowed by a thick grove
of trees, which, together with the old
town waUs, gives an additional ap-
pearance of age. The church itseli^
however, has been much modern-
ised, though still possessing some
singular features. At the N.E. comer,
is an octagonal steeple»rising from a
square base, and at me other is a
square tower, where the sexton re-
sides. The body consists of nave and
aisles, the former lighted by clerestory
windows and surmounted externally
by battlements. The E. window is of
very good design, and is filled with
stained glass. There are ruins of
2 other churches— St. Nicholas in the
S., and St. Stephen in the W. end of
the town.
The Suir is here a broad and rapid
stream, and separates the counties of
Waterford and Tipperary — Clonmel
being almost wholly in the latter
coimty, and part of it beingon an island
formed by the division of the river.
From the abundant supply of water-
power, there are numbers of flour-mills
and warehouses, the contents of which
are sent down by barges to Carrick
and Waterford. The valley of the Suir
at this spot is very beautinil, Clonmel
being sheltered on the S. by the Com-
meragh mountains, which separate it
from the vale of the Nier, and merge
into the broad and lofty group that
runs towards Dungarvan. TotheN.W.
of the town is Slieve-na-man, a conical
and rather isolated hill, 2362 ft. in
height. The immediate outskirts
and bonks are wooded and pretty,
affording very pleasant walks, — as
"the WUdemess, which, for solemn
gloom and wUd grandeur, might con-
vey no inadequate idea of that in
which the ii^ptist preached ; the
road of Heywood, a charming sylvan
walk ; the Green, commanding a de-
lightM prospect of the river; and
Fairy Hill rciul, the fashionable pro-
menade."— Hcdl, The latter is situ-
ated on the rt. bank of the river,
about i m. below the town. There
are, also, an unusual number of hand-
some residences in the neighbour-
hood. To the W., proceeding up the
valley of the Suir, are Marffield (J.
Bagwell, Esq., M.P.), the grounds of
which are very picturesque; Oak-
lands (Col. Phipps) ; Coole ; Knock-
lofty, the seat of the Earl of Donagh-
more; and Kilmanahan Castle (T.
Watson, Esq.) To the N. are Hay-
wood (J. Mulcahy, Esq.); Glen-
conner (P. Gough, Esq.> On the
E. or Carrick side, Powerstown (G.
Grene, Esq.J; Castle Anner (Rev.
H. Mandeville); Newtown Anner
(R. Osborne, Esq., M.P.).
The tourist, who is now enabled to
visit almost every part of L^land by rail
or car with such comfort and speed,
should not forget that Clonmel was
the starting-point of the first public
car to Cahir, by Mr. Bianconi, of
Longfield, in 1815. He was then in
humble circumstances, and it is impos-
sible to speak in too high terms of
his perseverance and foresight, and of
276
Botde 30. — Limerick to Waterford, Ireland.
the debt of gratitude which Irelaiid
owes him. {Introd., p. zliv.)
Conveyances. — ^Rail to Waterford
and Limerick; cor daily to Dim-
garvan ; daily to Fethaid, to Goold's
Cross, to Thurles.
Distances. — ^Fethard, 8( m. ; Axd-
flnane, 8; Gahir, 11; Oashel, 14;
Knocklofty, 5 ; Gurteen, 5} ; Gairick,
H ; Dungarvan, 25.
P[t is a pretty drive to the carious
town of Fethard, which still pre-
serves a good porti(m of its walls and
gateways, and an Early Dec. oh., with
a fine tower and E. window.
The importance of Fethard (anc.
Frodh-ard ) may be gathered from the
feet of its being governed " by a sove-
reign, 12 chief burgesses, portreeve,
and an indefinite number oi freemen,
assisted by a recorder, town-derk, ser-
jeant-at-mace, and other oflfioers." The
road from Olonmel crosses the river
Moyle or Moile, and passes Lakefield,
the residence of W. Pennefether,
Esq. If the tourist has time he
should return by another road along
the banks of the Clashanly, wbi(£
are ornamented with the woods of
Grove House (T. Barton, Esq.) and
l^iltinan Castle (R. Cooke, Esq.), veir
finely placed on a precipitous rock
overlooking the river. Opposite is the
huge mass of Slieve^norman, or, more
properly Sliebh-na-mhan-Fionn-na-
Heirin, "the mountain of the fair
women of Lreland," on the summit
of which Fin MacCoul, wishing to
take a wife, and puzzled as to his
choice, seated himself, while all who
chose ran a race from the bottom to
the top, the winner to secure the
honour of his hand — an honour ob-
tained by Graine, daughter of Cor-
mac. King of Ireland, who proved
herself not only the fleetest but the
longest- winded.
Slieve-na-man is also celebrated by
Ossian as the hunting-ground of the
Finian chieis ; —
** One day Fin and Oscar
Followed the chase in Sliebh-na-inhan-Fionn
With three thousand Fenian chiefs.
Ere the snn looked out from his drde."
Geologically speaking, this block
of mountain conosts of old red sand-
stone, although on its eastern dope
some clay-slates appear (a88oda.ted
with some igneous rocks), beUeved to
be of Lower Silurian era. At its N.E.
termination is the village of Nine
Mile House, and a little beyond it
EUlamery, where, in a quarry 300
yards from the ch., the fossil-collector
may find Cydopteris Hibemia.]
From ClonmeL the line runs still
E., nearly following the course of the
Suir, and the very picturesque valley
formed on the N. by Slieve-na-man
and on the S. by the wooded outliers
of the Commeraghjnountains, which
descend almost to the banks of the
stream.
6 m. ri, near the village of Eils-
heela, is Gurteen, the beautiful seat
of J. Power, Esq. The woods here
are very extensive, and numerouB
little ravines and dells, each with its
characteristic rivulet, are continually
opening up charming bits of land-
scape. A considerable slate^uarry
has been worked at Glen Patrick.
58 m. Ballydine (Capt Power),
and further on Coolnamuck (J. Sad-
leir, Esq.), remarkable for the growth
of native wopfl in the grounds. At
this point the Suir becomes tidal,
and enters
63 m. Carrick {Hotel : Besborough
Arms), a small, straggling town,
which, apart frx>m the b^uty of
its situation, need not detain the
tourist. The only object of interest
is the castle of the Butlers on the
rt or Waterford side of the river,
which is crossed by a long bridge
connecting Waterford with Tippe-
rary; a small portion of the town
is also in Kilkenny. As at Clonmel,
the Suir divides and becomes of con-
siderable breadth, being navigable
for barges of large tonnage. In
the neighbourhood of the town are
Ireland.
Boute 31. — Mallow to Tralee.
277
Tinvane and Mount Richard, and
2 m. to the N. the demesne of Cregg
(T. Lawler, Esq.).
From Oarrick the valley of the
Suir becomes broader and more open,
the Oommeragh Mountains, which
have so long: bounded the landscape
to the S., falling back towards Dun-
garvan. On 1., at Piltown, are the
estates of Belline, and Besborough
House, the latter the residence of
the Earl of Besborough, and the
former of his agent. At 67 m. Fid-
down the Suir is crossed by a re-
markably long firidge, resting side-
way on a large island in the middle
of the stream. This is ttie only
means of connection between tiie rly.
and
^ Parttawy 3 m. to the 8., a busy
little manufacturing town, where the
Maloolmsons, the merchant-princes
of Waterford, have a lare:e factory,
employing 1000 hands. Close to the
village is the residence of W. Mal-
colmson, Esq. ; and about 1 J m. to
theW. is Currasrhmore, the seat of the
Marquis of Waterford. It is more
than 4000 acres in extent, and is re-
markable for the beauty of the
pounds and timber, in which the
Scotch firs are pre-eminent. The
scenery of the Suir near Fiddown is
very beautiful. The banks rise to a
considerable height, and are finely
wooded at Mount Bolton, on the
rt. of the stream. Prom hence there
is nothing worth seeing for the re-
mainder of the journey. At Dunkitt
the Blackwater is crossed, and a
junction formed with the Kilkenny
line, shortly after which we reach
the gloomy terminus of
Waterford. {Hotels : Adelphi, very
good ; Dobbyn's, pretty good ; Cum-
min's, bad.) (Rtes. 26, 28.)
ROUTE 31.
FBOM MALLOW TO KILLARNEY AND
TRALEE.
The opening of the Great Southern
and Western branch from Mallow was
a real boon to the tourist, whom a run
of 2J hours places at once in the
heart of the most lovely and fSeur-
fmied scenery in Ireland, the lakes
and mountains of Eillamey.
For a great portion of the dis-
tance the line passes through an
tminviting country, in which ex-
tensive stony uplands, watered by
broad open streams, are the genend
features, occasionally diversified by
wooded slopes and ravines. But as
soon as the distant outlines of the
Killame^ Hills break upon the eye,
all else is forgotten in watching tiie
fantastic outlines and purple hues of
these magnificent ranges.
Crossing the clear stream of the
Blackwater we leave the main line
to follow up its picturesque valley
for several miles.
At 1 m. the little river Clyda is
crossed, having on 1. of rly. Dro-
more House (A. Newman, Esq.), and
on rt. Clyda, Woodfort (N. Ware,
Esq.), and Dromaneen, the grounds
of these last skirting the banks of
the Blackwater. On the opposite
side of the river are SummerviUe TR.
Bolster, Esq.) and Longueville (R.
Longfield, Esq."^, both occupying com-
manding situations.
2 m. 1. is the prettily wooded knoll
pr
ill.
of Qazabo Hill, crowned with a
278
Boftte 31. — Mallow to TrcHee.
Ireland.
turret, which is said to have been
erected by a former proprietor of
Woodfort to protect his estate.
At the further end of the demesne
of Dromatieen is the old castle rising
from a steep escarped rock overhang-
ing the Blackwater, with its square
muUioned windows and gable ends.
The ruins are less those of a
castle than of a fortified house of
tlie date of Elizabeth or James I.,
about whose time Dromaneen be-
longed to the family of the O'OaUa-
ghans.
7 m. L Mount Hillary (1287) is
an outlying portion of the Bochra
Mountains, a dreary and unculti-
vated range intervening between the
valley of the Blackwater and that of
the Lee near Macroom. The road
from Kanturk to Cork crosses them
at a height of about 1000 ft. Near
the junction of the Glen River with
the Blackwater is, 9} m., Kanturk
Stat., distant 3^ m. rt. from
Kanturk {Inn: Tiemey Arms), a
pretty little town, situated on the
banks of 2 streams, the DuaUua and
the Allua, each of which is crossed by
bridges of 5 or 6 arches. The former
river gives name to the barony of
Duhallow. Elanturk became a place
of some importance in the days of'
Elizabeth, owing to the building, by
MacDonagh Garthy, of an immense
castle (still called McDonagh's Folly),
of such proportions and vast strength,
that the jealousy of the English
Government was roused and a veto
placed on any further proceedings. "It
occupies the 4 sides of a qua£angle
120 ft. in length by 80 ft. in breadth,
beings 3 stories high, and flanked at
each angle by a square tower of 4
stories, having 3 windows in each
story in the centred portion; the
groins, mouldings, beltings, and other
ornamental parts, are of hewn stone.
The battlements, if ever carried up,
have fallen down, and the additional
story mentioned by Smith in his
* History of Cork * is only apparent
on one side, where it forms the under-
ground or cellar floor.*' — Lewis. The
castle stands about J m. to the S. of
the town.
The B. C. Chapel in the town is
worth visiting for its entrance gate-
way and font, both the work of a
native artist.
[5^ m. to E. of Kanturk, passing
on the way Eathmaher, Assolaa, and
Ballygiblin (Sir H. Becher, Bart.), are
the village of Oecilstown, and Lohort
Castle (Earl of Egmont), a fine baro-
nial residence, approached by a long
straight avenue.
Near Newmarket, which lies to N.
Kanturk, are Newmarket House (R.
Aldworth, Esq.), and the Priory,
once the residence of John Philpot
Curran, whose convivial proceedings
with the chosen wits and talent of
that day have been described by
Lever under the designation of * The
Monks of the Screw.*
Newmarket is placed at the foot
of a very dreary and barren
range of hills which, with but few
breaks, may be said to extend north-
wards to the banks of the Shannon,
and westwards to the coast. From
Charleville to ListoweD, and from
Newmarket to Tralee, the whole
district is occupied by this wild and
bleak region, each range taking a
different name. Those near Jifew-
market are the Use Mountains, while
to the N.W. they are called Mul-
laghareirk, and stiU westv^ard the
Clanruddery and Flesk Moimtains.
Woe betide the pedestrian who gets
benighted here, "for there is not,
between Mr. Aldworth's seat at New-
market and the Knight of Glin's on
the banks of the Shannon, a distance
of 34 m., a single house worthy of the
name of a gentleman's residence."—
Fraser^
Close to Kanturk Stat, is the
village of Banteer, and 1^ m. to E.
Clonmeen, a residence of the O'Cal-
laghans.
Still following the Blackwater, and
leaving on rt. Rosnalee ( W. Leader,
Esq.), Dromagh Castle (N. Leader,
Ireland.
Boute 31. — MtUsireet — KiUarney,
279
Esq.), Keale, Kathroe (D. M'Carthy,
Esq.), and Flintfield, we arrive at
20 m. Millstreet. A little before
arriving at the stat. on 1., on the
banks of the river Finnow, is Dri-
shane CasUe (the residence of Col.
Wallis), a castellated building flanked
by a square tower at each end and
incorporated with the old fortress,
the ivy-covered tower of which rises
from the modem portion. Drishane
was built by Dermot M*Carthy in
1436.
The most attractive point about
Millstreet {Hold: Wallis Arms) is
its situation in an open wooded
valley on the Finnow, surrounded
by mountains, which at Cahirbamagh
to the S.W. attain a height of 2239 ft.
In fact they are the advanced out-
posts of the Killamey group, that
Las for some time peist been looming
in the distance. The scenery of Mill-
street is enhanced by the woods of
Drishane, Altamont (Kev. G. Morgan),
Coomlogane (M*Carthy O'Leary,
Esq.), and Mount Leader, the resi-
dence of the Leader &mily, at the
foot of Mount Clare.
Near the mountains, on the road
from Millstreet to Macroom, are the
ruins of Kilmeedy Castle, which com-
manded the descent into the valley
from the Muskerry Hills. After
passing Shinnagh Stat. 26 m., where
the river Awnaskirtaun is crossed
and the Blackwater turns off to the
N., the interest of the landscape is all
concentrated on the 1., when the noble
Cdhirbamagh 2239 ft., and the still
more conspicuous range of the Paps
2268 ft., herald the approach to
the finest scenery in the kingdom.
To the Paps, which are easily re-
cognizable by 2 conical eminences
separated by a deep ravine, succeed
Crohane 2102 ft., and Mangerton
2379 ft., one of the principal lions of
Killamey. Immediately to the 6.
this range of mountains is separated
only by the lofty highland valley of
the Flesk from a fresh range known
as the Derrynasaggart Mountains,
which spread over a large area, and
in fact extend with more or less in-
terruption all the distance to Gou-
gane Barra and the source of the Lee.
33 m. Headfort Stat., passing
which the line runs parallel with the
Flesk Biver, that leaps from rock to
rock with impetuous torrent. A very
fine mountain road runs S. from
Headfort to Macroom.
Soon a sudden turn of the valley
brings us in sight of Flesk Castle, the
seat of D. Coltsman, Esq., crowning
a wooded knoll, round the base of
which sweeps the river. It com-
mands one of the most enchanting
views over the lake and mountains
that it is possible to conceive.
41m. KiUarney Stat. Here the train,
though by no means near its journey's
end, usually disembogues 9-10th8 of
its passengers, the greater part of
them eager for the Lake beauties
which nature has scattered so pro-
digally over this fiavoured region : a
region so charming, that no amount
of journeying to reach it can be con-
sidered too great or too wearisome.
The Killamey district is well sup-
plied with hotel accommodation, and
amongst the 8 or 4 principal esta-
blishments the visitor -will scarcely
go wrong whichever he chooses.
The Hallway is a magnificent and
first-class house adjoining the stat.,
but this, though convenient in some
respects, has, to the generality of
visitors, the disadvantage of being
nearly a mile from the Lake, the view
of which is almost entirely cut off by
the woods of Lord Kenmare's de-
mesne. Next in rank is the Royal
Victoria Hotel, about 1} m. from the
town, and situated in its own grounds
sloping down to the N. shore of the
Lake : the accommodation heoe is first-
dass in every way, and the situation
overlooking the whole of the Lower
Lake, and the splendid panorama of
mountains &om Mangerton to the
Reeks is superb : nioreover, it is the
most centnd for excursions to the
Gap of Dunloe and that neighbour-
280
BouU Bl.— Mallow to Tralee.
Ireland.
hood. The Lake Hotel is also
exoellent, overlooking the eastern
bank or Gustle-Longh Bay, and also
1^ m. from the town on the Kenmare
road. There are also 2 good hotels,
Sullivan's and the Mncross, 3 m. S.
of Killamey at Mucross. It will be
advisable for the tourist to locate him-
self outside the town for one reason,
and that is, to avoid the beggars. All
Irish towns are pestered wiu beggars
to a degree that is disgraceful to the
local authorities ; but Sie nuisance is
felt with tenfold force in Killamey,
which seems to be the head-quarters
of everytliing that is bold and re-
pulsive in Irish mendicancy. No
sooner does the visitor put foot out-
side the hotel or station precincts than
he is driven wild by touters, guides, and
hordes of beggars, and should he be
weak enough to stop and listen to any
one of them, he need not expect to be
left alone any more while be is in the
town. Indeeid,with the exception of a
few shops containing local curiosities,
such as ornaments made out of arbu-
tus trees and such like, there is very
little to detain him ; for, notwithstand-
ing the enormous number of visitors
who annually resort here, it has a
wretched decayed look about It, with
scarcely a single good street. ** Along
the 3 main streets are niunerous
arches, down every one of which runs
an alley, intersected by other alleys,
and swarming with people. A stream
or gutter runs commonly down these
alleys, in whidi the pigs and children
are seen paddling about, while the
men and women loll at their doors
or windows to enjoy the detestable
prospect." — Thackeray. It must be
allowed, however, uiat since the
author of the * Irish Sketch-Book*
passed through Killamey, it has con-
siderably improved in cleanliness.
The only building in Ballamey worth
inspection is the B. 0. Cathedral, a
very elaborate Gothic building after
the design of Pugin. It contains some
beautifiU interior decorations by Mr.
McCarthy.
Before describing the scenery of this
neighbourhood, it is as well to touch
upon the guides, a necessary con-
comitant to every tourist according
to the notions of the hotel-keepers
and the natives themselves. As most
visitors are tied to time and are
anxious to see as much of the district
as they can, a guide cannot well be
dispensed with, and even should the
visitor wish to do so, it is not easy to
make the guide dispense with the
visitor. At every comer and ev^y
point a new cicerone starts up, and
so beleaguers the unfortunate pedes-
trian, that he wishes he had taken
one at first, if only to keep off the
others. In justice to the guides, it
is but fsdr to add that they are ge-
nerally intelligent, good-hiunoured,
always talkative, r^dy to protect
their charge from being bothered by
others, and usefid in carrying any
overcoats or superfluities. If the vi-
sitor is staying at an hotel, he should
consult the landlord, who will pro-
vide him with an accredited guide at
a fixed tariff; but if he takes one of
the irregular guides, he should take
care to make his bargain with him
before starting. The hotels also pro-
vide ponies and boate for lake ex-
cursions at a fixed price, which the
visitor can see before starting, and
thus calculate beforehand the ex-
pense of his excursions. He should
also take the precaution to have plenty
of small change about him, for, putting
aside the beggars, to give to whom
were as unpardonable and unneces-
sary as to cast pearls before swine, he
will find that the Killamey natives
are wonderfully ingenious in extra(*t-
ing small sums — from the generously
inclined, because they urge such good
reasons for charity — ^from the closely
inclined, to get rid of their impor-
tunities. First there is the purveyor
of box-wood, arbutus-wood, and bog-
oak ornaments, who lies in wait along
the frequented roads, and offers
for sale pretty knicknacks at only
double their value. 2ndly there is
Ireland.
BotUe 31. — Killarney.
281
the peoaliar tribe of mountain-dew
women, who, when you least expect
interruption, whether at the tops of the
mountcans, or in the wildest glens,
follow in droves of half a dozen at a
time, carrying with them small jars
of goats' milk and a bottle of whisky,
strongly recommended by them as a
specific against mountain air. From
the first comer the visitor sips, but,
his heart &iling at the sight of so
many others, he is glad to compound
at the expense of a shilling or two of
small change. Associated with this
class are idle fellows with a cracked
bugle or an old cannon, or filing that
amount of property, with their own
powerful screeoi with which to awake
the echoes for ** his Hanner, worthy
gintleman,'* to hear. Many of these
ragged hangers-on are very amusing
for a time, but they become a despe-
rate nuissmce when from half a dozen
to a dozen persist in accompanying
you the whole length of your walk,
taking gS from the grandeur and
solemnity of the scenery by their
clamour and determination to make
themselves heard. It is really a
question which the lords of the
manor would do welf to entertain,
as to the propriety of keeping these
gentry in due bounds, and thus pre-
venting so many visitors leaving Kil-
larney with a fudl determination never
to come there again.
Whichever hotel the visitor may
select for his stay, it will 8wid very
much to his pleasure if he thoroughly
studies the phvsical geography of the
neighbourhood before commencing
his excursions.
The Lake of Killarney may be
described as a large irregular sheet
of water lying in a basin at tiie
northerly bise of a very high range
of mountains.
In the journey from Millstreet it
will be remembered that a range of
mountains running nearly E. and W.
commences with Cahirbumagh (p.
279), and joins on to the Paps. Then
comes the highland valley of theMe^,
causing a deflection of the range a
httle to the S.W. in Croghane and
Mangerton. At this latter, or more
correctly at the Tore Moimtain, which
may be said to belong to it, the
easterly group of Killarney comes to
an end, being divided from the
western group by what is called
the Midffle Lakes. The westerly
group rises precipitously from the
opposite side of tlus narrow strip of
water, and runs for many miles
nearly due E. and W., forming the
finest and most lofty mountains in
the kingdom. The mass immediately
overhanging Killarney are called
the Tomies and the Purple Moun-
tain. These are imaginarily se-
parated on the W. by the Gap of
Dunloe from the Alpine chain of
McGillicuddy's Reeks, commonly
known as the Beeks, the centre
of which is Garrantuohill shoot-
ing upwards to the height of
3414 ft. These 2 groups of the
Beeks and Mangerton are those
with which, broeSly speaking, the
KiUamey tourist has to do at pre-
sent; but it must not be imagined
that they are isolated or detached
chains of mountains ; for on the con-
trary, they extend on the W. as fer
as the sea-coast, and similarly to
Kenmaxe on the S.
In a basin then between these
groups lies the Lake of Killarney,
3ie first and by fiir the largest portion
bounded on the W. by the Toomies
and the Glena or Purple Mountain ;
on the S. by Tore Mountain, on
the N. by gently swelling hills, of no
great height (between 400 and 500
n;.), and on the E. by the undulating
and wooded slopes that fringe the
base of Mangerton. Like most high-
land lakes, the chief grandeur of
Killarney is at its head ; for just at
the point of separation between Tore
and the Glena Mountain runs a
narrow prolongation, a river in fact,
called the Long Range, which, glid-
ing round the Eagle's Nest, expands
into the Upper Lake, embedded in the
282
Boute 31. — MdUow to Tralee,
Ireland.
very heart of the mountains. This
portion is fed by a stream which
rises from the Dark Valley, or Cum-
meenduff, one of the most sublime
glens skirting the southern base of
the Beeks, and dividing them from
the remSEiinder of the Kenmare
group.
If the tourist will study these
broad outlines and take the following
objects of bearing, viz. the Victoria
Hotel for the N., Tore Mountain for
the S., the Tomies to the W., and
the Lake Hotel, or Boss Castle, to
the E., he will not be so liable to be
puzzled, when he gets on to the Lake,
as to his whereabouts.
The Lower Lake, otherwise called
Lough Leane, comprises 5000 acres of
surface, and is 5 m. in length to 2^ in
average breadth. Its longest axis is
from S.E. to N.W., which portion is
the broadest as well as the most,
free from islands. The number of
islands is one of the most charac-
teristic features of the Lower Lake,
there being upwards of 30, embracing
a total area of 52 acres, varying
in size from 21 acres (Innisfallen
Island) to a mere rock of 9 perches.
In addition to these islands, the
greater nimiber of which are con-
Eregated on the eastern side of the
ake, there is also the peninsula of
Boss, generally called Boss Island,
jutting out from the E. bank between
Kenmare grounds and the mouth of
the Flesk. The bay between Boss
Island and Muckross is called Gcustle-
lough. The Upper Lake is on the
same level with and separated from
the Middle or Mv/ikross Lake by a
narrow peninsula extending from the
mainland at Muckross nearly across
to Dinish Island on tiie extreme S.W.
side, the connection between this
latter island and Muckross being
maintained by Brickeen Bridge, so
that the waters of the 2 lakes are
only connected at Brickeen, and that
portion of the Long Beach whicli
winds round Dinish, called the
Meeting of the Waters.
The islands in Middle Lake, there-
fore, are 4, of which Brickeen and
Dinish Island are 19 and 34 acres
respectively.
From the S.W. comer of the
Lower Lake, joining this narrow
outlet at Dinish with the Middle
Lake, there is a tortuous stream,
known as the Long Bange, of about
2 J m. in length, wMch connects both
Lower and Middle with the Upper
Lake, the most beautiful, though the
smallest, of all. It is 5 ft. higher
in level than the others, about 2^ m.
in length, f in breadth, with a
surface of 480 acres, and contains 8
islands of 6 acres altogether. It is
nearly separated from the rest of the
Lake by the Purple Mountain, which
projects between the two, the Upper
Lake thus occupying a basin at the
foot of the Cummeenduff, or Black
Valley. It is fed by the Cummeen-
duff Biver, by the Owenreagh,
a stream that flows into the same
glen from the S.W., and also by a
small stream from the S. flowing
past the Police Barracks, and form-
ing the Derrycunihy cascades. The
Middle Lake receives the watersof the
Mangerton group, flowing in at the
Owengarriff Biver, while the Lower
Lake is supplied by the small Muck-
ross Biver, the Flesk running in on
the E. shore, and the Deenagh close
to Killamey town. There are also 2
or 3 little mountain streams on the
W. shore.
It will thus be seen that the lakes
form a great reservoir for the waters
of this important group of moun-
tains, discharging them into the
Atlantic by the river Laune, which
emerging from the N.W. of the
Lower Lake finally empties itself
into the sea at Castlemaine.
The next point which the tourist
wiU have to settle will depend
on the time which he has to spare
for seeing Killamey, which will
of course be influenced by many
circumstances, such as weather, or
the visitor's capability of fiitigue, &c.
Ireland.
Boiite 31. — Aghadoe,
283
Should only one day be available, a
good deal may be seen in that one
day; although only in the most
cursory manner. In this case, an
early start by car to the foot of
Mangerton is recommended (if the
morning is clear). The car should
wait at the foot and take the visitor
to Muckross and the Tore Waterfiall.
Having completed this, another car
should be engaged for the Grap of
Dunloe, and an arrangement made
that a boat should meet the tourist
at Lord Brandon's cottage on the
Upper Lake, and bring him back to
the hotel.
For 2 days. — Mangerton, Tore,
Muckross, and a drive to the Police
Barrack on the Kenmare road will
suffice for the 1st day; while the
2nd may be employed in the Gap,
taking on the way Aghadoe and the
castle of Dunloe, and visiting on the
return water excursion, Glena, Innis-
fallen, Boss, and O'Sullivan's Cascade.
A third day may be devoted either
to a row round the lakes, or the
ascent of Carrantuohlll and the
Beeks.
It need scarcely be observed that
these rides, drives, walks, and water
excursions may be spun out and
diversified ad infinitum.
Excursion 1. — To Grap of Dunloe,
and hence by water. Leaving the
town at the western side and pass-
ing the B. 0. Cathedral, a private
ipad (open only to pedestrians)
leads through a portion of the de-
mesne of Lord Kenmare, emerging
near the grounds of the Victoria
Hotel IJ m., the view from which
over the Lake and opposite mountains
would be in itself sufficient attraction,
even were it not increased by the
accommodations offered, first-class in
every way. His Boyal Highness the
Prince of Wales stopped here during
Ids visit to Killamey. A little further
on a lane turns off to the rt. and
breasts the upland for about f of m.
to
Aghadoe (anc. Achadh-da-eo),
celebrated for its ch. and round
tower, once the seat of a bishopric,
and stated in the Annals of Innis-
fallen to have been the burial-place
of a son of O'Donoghue. This
singular building consists of 2 por-
tions of different dates : the nave
being considered by many antiquaries
to be as old as the 8th cent., while
the choir was an addition of the 13th.
The latter, which contains some tombs,
is lighted at the E. end by a double-
light lancet window splayed inwardly.
The nave was lit by round-headed
windows, and is entered by a mag-
nificent Bomanesque door in the W.
wall, which even now in its decay
shows many traces of exquisite archi-
tecture. It consists of 4 recessed
arches, the 3 outer ones springing
from pillars about 3 ft. high, and
ornamented with chevron, bead, and
tooth mouldings, continued under the
crown of the arch. Notwithstand-
ing the apparent Norm, age of these
mouldings and decorations. Dr. Pe-
trie has shown in his work on the
'Bound Towers of Ireland* (p. 260)
that the use of such ornaments in
Ireland was of an age considerably
anterior to the importation of Norm,
architecture into the country. The
round tower stands a little distance
from the N.W. angle of the ch., and
is in fact incorporated with the wall
of the enclosure. The height of what
little is left is about 12 ft., and its
circumference is 52 ft., the masonry
of which it is composed being re-
markably regular. On the opposite
side of the town is a massive round
tower belonging to the castle of Agha-
doe of rude materials and workman-
ship, and evidently of early date,
although history mentions it not.
There are traces of earthworks all
round it.
Even if the visitor does not care
for archaeology, the view from Agha-
doe will be sufficient recompense.
That to the N. is bleak and desolate,
but on the S. it beggars description,
embracing the whole panorama of
284
Bcmte 31. — Mallow to Trcdee.
iRELAim.
Killamey lakes, mountains, woods,
and islands, with their glorious lights
and shades — such a panorama as
once seen, never leaves the memory.
2j^ m. ri a road is given off to
Milltown and Gastlemaine 10 m.,
and occupying the angle of junction
is Aghadoe-Houae, the very charming
Italian mansion of Lora Headley,
the owner of nearly all the land to
the N. of the lake. Further on L
is Grenagh House (D . Shiel, Esq.),
and at 5 m. the Laune is crossed at
Beaufort Bridge. A beautiful spot
is this, and a paradise for salmon
fishers, who can have fine sport
&om the pools imdemeath the bridge,
while the trout fisher will find ample
employment in the still backwaters
at the side of the stream underneath
the shady Mnge of wood. A road
on N. hauk continues to Eillorglin
7 m.
Passing the grounds of Beaufort
House (Rev. Fitzgerald Day), the
tourist ^ould diverge to the 1. to visit
Durdoe Casde, originally a mountain
stronghold of O'SuUivan Mor, and
now the modernised residence of
D, Mahony, Esq. Some of the most
exquisite views of the Lake, looking
westward, are to be obtained from the
grounds.
In a field adjoinmg the high road,
near the entrance to the Gap, is the
celebrated cave of Dunloe, discovered
in 1838, which must be regarded
"as an ancient Irish library lately
disinterred and restored to the light.
The books are the large impost stones
which form the roof. Their angles
contain the writing." — Hall, This
writing consists of Ogham characters,
the age and reading of which has
long been a disputed point amongst
antiquarians. **The conclusion to
which Prof. Graves has arrived, as
regards the age of the Ogham writing,
is that it does not belong to the period
autecedent to the introduction of the
Latin language and Christianity into
Ireland, in short, that it is an in-
vention of the early monkish period.
That the alphabet is not a very
ancient one is sufficiently manifested
by the arrangement of the letters.
The five vowels, a o u e i, are formed
into a group arranged in that order,
thus manifesting the art of the gram-
marian in distinguishing vowels from
consonants, and again in dividing
the vowels into 2 classes of broad
and slender. A comparison of the
Ogham alphabet with the Pers^wli-
tan and Phoenician alphabets, mani-
fests that the pretended relationship
between it and them has no exist-
ence.'* The alphabet consists of series
of scores or short lines branching off
in different portions from a centre
line called the Fleasg, which may be
likened to a stem, the scores attached
to which are the branches. The re-
lative position of these scores to the
main line constitute the difference of
the letter. Generally spiking the
corner angle of the stone is made use
of as a Fleasg or medial line, though
in the Ogham stone on Slieve GaUane
(Bte. 33) the Fleasg is in the centre.
The visitor soon enters the Gap of
Durdoe^ which for savage grandeur is
equal to anything in Great Britain,
though on a much smaller scale
than Llanberis. ** The road now
mounts up the hill by the side of the
Loe, the ravine now becoming more
wild and sombre, the hill sides more
precipitous and frowning; while as
you gain each successive step of
tableland, the little dusky ravine ex-
pands itself at the levels into dark
and gloomy tarns which add wonder-
fully to the effect." When fiairly
within the entrance, the car pulls
up at a cottage, where dwdls the re-
presentative and granddaughter of
the fair Kate Kearney. Unfortu-
nately the beauty has not descended
with the name to the dispenser of
mountain dew, of which the tourist is
expected to partake ; being the first
instalment of successive troops of
attendant Hebes, who pertinaciously
follow everybody up to the top of
the Gap, utterly destroying the charm
Ireland.
Boute 31. — Oap ofDunloe,
285
of the solitary grandeur by their
ceaseless gabble and importunities
for money. At one place a cannon
is fired off, producing a really fine
echo.
About the 9th m. the Loe is crossed
as it issues from a sayage-looking
tarn, rightly called the Black Lake,
and here the car returns, leaving the
tourist to walk up to the head of the
Chip and down again to the head of
the lake on the other side. A mag-
nificent, pass it is, guarded on each
side by tne precipitous crags of the
Tomies (2413 ft.) and the Purple
Mountain (2739 ft.) on one side, and
the Reeks on the other, the summit
of the former group being frequently
visible. One singular feature of the
Gap of Dunloe is the comparatively
large population that is scattered
through it. Although at a distance
appearing as though far removed
firom man*s haunts, the eye soon
detects the little sad-coloured cabins
with their plot of potato or rye ground
perched here and there amongst
the rocks and streams. Just before
arriving at the head of the Gap,
there is a fine view looking back to
the N., but the moment the summit
is reached, the panorama is glorious
—one which should be drunk in
silently and at leisure. If the lights
are good, the effect is perfectly
magical in the transition from the
dark gloom of the Gap to the
brightsome Lake lying at one's feet
in still repose.
The lake is of course the chief
point of attraction, although the
eye catches only the Upper Lake,
with a portion of the Long Range
and the river that feeds it, flowing
from the rt. through the wonderful
Cummeenduff, a savage Alpine glen
that runs up into the heart of the
Reeks for some 4 m., terminated by
a semicircular cwm, from which the
precipitous mountains rise sheer up
on all sidep but one. Should the
Black Valley be overcast by lowering
clouds, while the Lake is in sunsliine,
an • effect is produced quite unsur-
passable for contrast. At the head
of the valley is a series of small tarns
which give birth to the river. Soon
after beginning the descent of the
zigzag road to the head of the lake
there is a singular logan or balancing
stone on the side of the hill to the I.
Arrived at the bottom, the tourist
follows the stream of the Gear-
hameen from the Black Valley and
arrives at a bridge, the gate of
which is kept locked, until a silver
key is applied to the janitor. From
the Black Lake in the Gap of Dun-
loe to Lord Brandon's' cottage, at
which the tourist has now arrived, il
is 5 m., that is, providing the road
has been followed all the way instead
of the short cut down the mountain.
This is practicable, yet, although
it appears to be plain sailing, it re-
quires care, especially on the fiat near
the river, where the bogs are very awk-
ward, and more particularly after wet
weather. The boat should be waiting
here by appointment, and now the
tourist is in the hands of another
class of Killamey guides, good-hu-
moured, intelligent fellows, with a
story for every rock, and a fable for
every island. Their ingenuity in
finding out impossible likenesses for
each stone or stump is only equalled
by the bold audacity with which
they swear to the truth of the legend
Witt which they have invested it.
The principal islands in the Upper
Lake are Eagle. Juniper, Ronayne*s,
and Arbutus Islands : the latter pre-
eminently conspicuous for the indi-
genous arbutus (Arbutus unedo), the
great peculiarity and glory of Kil-
lamey. ** This is the only shrub pecu-
liar to Killamey ; it is also found at
Glengarriff, and in other parts of the
barony of Bear. It prevails to a
great extent throughout the Kil-
kirney woods; in sheltered places
attaining to a great size ; and by its
foliage and fruit adds much to their
interest and variety." — Fraser. There
is something peculiarly weird and
286
Boute 31. — Mallow to Tralee.
Ireland.
TTild in the twisted boles and gnarled
stems of this tree, covering the island
with an interlacement of wood down
to the water's edge ; and Mackay,
in his * Flora Hibemin,* mentions a
tree near 0'Sullivan*s Oasc€ide which
he measured and found to be 9^ ft.
in girth. The brilliant red berries
are in perfection about October and
November, and add an additional
glow of colour to the scene. Not only
on the islands, but &om the water's
edge along the banks (of the whole
of the Upper Lake in particular),
rises mass after mass of foliage, so
dense as scarcely to allow the scars
and peaks of the mountains to appear.
As the altitude becomes greater, the
vegetation thins and the character of
tree is smaller and less dense; till
at length the mountain soars far
above, as though it rejoiced to have
escaped the close companionship of
the forest below. It is this wonderful
succession of vegetable beauty, vary-
ing in its colours from the brightest
green to russet brown, and contrast-
ing with the gleaming scars, each
one of which is tufted with its
miniature tree-garden, that gives Kil-
lamey such a magic about its scenery,
and confers such superiority over all
other British lakes.
Another scenic advantage that the
Upper Lake possesses is in its solitude
and absence of habitations; indeed, the
only trace of man, save Lord Bran-
don's cottage, is the large castellated
police barrack that overlooks the Lake
from the Kenmare road. We now
arrive at the outlet of the Upper
Lake, which is so narrow and hidden
by the little bays and jutting pro-
montories, that it is difficult to fore-
tell from which side it may emerge ;
an opportunity not lost by the boat-
men, who cunningly lay on their
oars and offer a small bet that the
visitor will not be able to guess it.
The narrow passage is close under
the W. bank, and is called Colman's
Eye, soon after which is Colman's
Leap. ** This Colman, once upon a
time, was lord of the Upper Lako,
and instead of following the example
of his namesake, who, as- a saint antt
peacemaker, assisted St. Patrick in
converting Ireland to Christianity,
spent most of his time in quarreling
with the O'Donoghue, and in pro-
yoking him to single combat Being
in a minority at one of these di-
versions, it appeared to him a pru-
dential course to fly, and, closely
pursued by his sidversary, took this
celebrated jump over the river, where
the guides show you his footprints
on the lOckJ'—Litae Tour.
And now the tourist enters the I^ng
Range (2^ m.), replete and over-
flowing with delicious beauty, such
as is described by Shelley —
"Where the embow'riog trees recede and
leave
A little space of green expense, the cove
Is closed by meeting banks, whose yellow
flowers
For ever gaze on their own drooping eyes
Reflected in the crystal calm : the wave
Of the boat's motion marred their pensive
task
Which nought but vagrant bird or wanton
wind
Or falling spear-grass, or their own decoy.
Had e'er disturbed before." Alastob.
The banks on either side are co-
vered with arbutus, and fringed
along the water-side with the lofty
Osmunda regdHs, while a sudden
turn of the river often brings
in view the stately form of the
red deer {Cervus elaphiis\ which
still holds covert in the woods and
forests of Killamey, the only other
habitat in the kingdom being the
mountains of Erris, in the Co. Mayo.
Indeed, a staghunt is still a great
event at Killarney, although it is
but seldom that such an exciting
incident occurs, the last occasion
being on the visit of Her Majesty
to Mr. Herbert, at Muckross.
About half way down the range
one of the most striking scenes in
Killamey district occurs, as the river
winds round the foot of the Eagle's
Nest, a gigantic precipice of about
Ireland.
Boute 31. — Much'089 Lake — Glena,
287-
1200 ft., presenting a bold front so
beautifully draped with wood and
vegetation that it is like a vast mass
of green wall. At the summit of this
cliff the Eagle still builds its nest,
and various stories are told by the
boatmen of bold attempts to capture
them. Here, if the boatmen pos-
sess a bugle, is the place to try the
sweet echoes, and here, in former
days, it was the practice to fire can-
non, the reverberations of which are
described by those who have heard
them as something peculiarly wonder-
ful. But in consequence of a frightful
accident that happened in One of
these fusillades, the practice is for-
bidden.
Onward drifts the boat with the
current, until it comes to the end
of the Long Range, where the
channel contracts, the banks be-
come lined with overarching trees,
and the tourist sees a-head of him
the Old Weir Bridge, through the
arches of which the water rushes with
a rather fearful rapidity. But if he
expects to land, he is mistaken, for
with an admonition to sit quiet and
keep up his pluck, the boatmen make
preparations for shooting the rapids,
which they do with admirable cool-
ness and nerve. Indeed, so used are
they to tliis difScult passage, that
they can steer through it by night
equally as weU as hj day, and all
chance of danger is m reaUty very
small, provided the psissenger does
as he is told. Once in still water,
however, it is, indeed, a lovely spot.
This is the Meeting of the Waters,
where the Long Range is deflected
by Dirmh Island, the stream to the
1. going off to the Lower Lake, and
that to the rt. to Muckross, or Middle
Lake.
The visitor will scarcely have time
in this excursion to visit Muckross
Lake, but he should not neglect to
do so, for it is inost charmingly-shel-
tered, almost entirely cut off on the N.
from the Lower Lake, save by the 2
narrow passages of Dinish and Bric-
keen, and surrounded on the E. shore
by the groves and grounds of Muck-
ross. On the S., too, rises that woii-
deriful landscape mountain, the Tore,
1764 ft, which with its tiers of wood
passing from thick groves to the slen-
der bushes that catch footing in the
crevices of the summit, is one of the
most striking and picturesque fea-
tures in all Killamey; it is more-
over, such a changing feature that it
is not always easy to recognise it.
The tourist may, if he prefers, land
on the Kenmare road, and walk or
drive back to Killamey, visiting tlie
waterfall and the Abbey (p. 289).
Emerging from the Long Range on
the W. bank of Dinish Island (on.
which there is a very picturesque cot-
tage embowered in firees), or from the
Middle Lake by Brickeen Bridge, we
now enter the Lower Lake at its nar-
rowest portion, and row into the
Bay of Glenttf where the lofty Glma,
a portion of the Purple Mountain,
casts deep shadows over this quiet
nook, the clear water of which reflects
the green forests which so densely
cover the face of the hill —
" From IHnis' green isle to Glena'a wooded
shore."
Lord Kenmare has a cottage om^e
on the bank, a perfect little gem as
regards situation, and he has, more-
over ,with a kind thoughtfulness, built
a similar one for the use of tourists.
Here all. necessaries are provided for
cooking a dinner; and for a picnic
party bent on combining lovely
scenery with their creature comforts,
there is not a more beautiful place
in tliis WOTld. You can catch your
salmon in the Bay of Glena, and
have it broiled directly afterwards on
arbutus skewers, and appreciate the
difference between salmon fresh
caught and salmon that has been
lying for hours on the fishmonger's
slab.
From Glena it will be as well to
coast round the wooded face of tlie
Tomies for about 2 m., and land at
288
Boute 31. — MaHaw to Tralee.
Ireland.
O'Sullivan's Cascade. There is, how-
ever, a very fine fall called the
Minister's Beck, soon after turninoj
the comer of the promontonr. The
adventurous who do not mind a sharp
struggle up-hill, through an almost
primaeval forest and over boggy
ground, will be repaid, but the way
is not by any means fit for ladies
or for the delicate. "Sullivan*s
Cascade consists of 3 distinct falls;
the uppermost, passing over a
ridge of rock, &lls about 20 feet
perpendicularly into a natural basin
underneath ; thence making its
way between 2 hanging rocks, the
stream hastens down a 2nd preci-
pice into a similar receptacle, from
which, concealed from the view, it
rolls over into the lowest chamber of
the faU. Beneath a projecting rock,
overhanging the lowest basin, is a
grotto, from which the view of the
cascade is peculiarly beautiftil, ap-
pearing as a continued flight of 3
unequally elevated, foaming stages."
^Wright.
From this waterfall it is a short
mile across to the exquisite island
of Innisf alien (anc. Inis-faitlilen),
the gem of Killamey, "in which
is found hill and dell — wood as
gloomy as the ancient Druidical
forests, thick with giant ashes and
enormous hollies — glades sunny and
cheerful, with the beautiful under-
wood bounding them— bowers and
thickets — rocks and old ruins — light
and shadow — everything that nature
can supply, without a single touch
from the band of art, save the
crumbling ruins, and all in a space of
21 acres, makes Innisfallen justly the
pride of the worthy denizens of Kil-
lamey."
*• Sweet Innlsrallen, long shall dwell,
In memory's dream, tbat sunny smile,
Which o'er thee on that evening fell
When first I saw thy fairy isle."
MOORB.
Close to the landing-place are the
ruins of an abbey founded at the
close of the 6th cent, by St. Finhian
Lothar (the Lesser), and adjoining
these ruins is a chapel or oratory,
with a Bomanesque doorway, de-
corated with tooth-moulding. In
this remote and sheltered spot was
compiled the Annals of Innisfallen,
** a composition usually attributed to
the early part of the 13th century,
though there is very good reason to
believe that they were commenced
at least 2 cent, before this period."
--Prof. O'Currey.
Strange to say, there is no copy in
Ireland, and only one in the Bodleian
liibrary at Oxford, which possesses
57 leaves.
" These annals contained a short
account of the history of the world
in general, and very little of Ireland
till the year 430, when the author
professedly begins a chronicle of Ire-
land thus: — *Lasgair^ Mac Neil
regnavit annis xxiv,' and thencefor-
ward it contains a short history of
Ireland to 1318.
"These 3 manuscript chronicles,
the Saltair of Cashel, Tighemach, and
Innisfallen, are written in Irish cha-
racters and in the Irish language, in-
termixed with Latin. They were
formerly collected, with many other
valuable MSS. relating to Ireland, by-
Sir J. Ware, and came first to the
Earl of Clarendon, and then to the
Duke of Chandos."— O'Connor.
The visitor who has no interest in.
the annals will find plenty in ram-
bling about this charming island,
and t%king in. the opposite views
of the Tomies and Tore on the S.,
the Slieve-mish mountains overlook-
ing Tralee and Castlemaine on the W.,
and Ross Castle, with the Kenmare
woods, on the E., and will return to
Killamey after a day of such varied
scenery as seldom falls to his lot.
2. Excursion to Muckross, Ross,
Mangerton, Tore, and Lough Loos-
cannagh.
This is essentially a land excursion,
and keeps all the way along the
eastern side of the lake.
Immediately on leaving the town
Ireland.
Soute 31. — Much'088 Abbey,
289
on rt. are the woods and mansion of
Kenmare House, the residence of the
Earl of Kenmare, the principal land-
lord of the neighbourhood. The house
itself is plain, but the gardens are
worth visiting, and the grounds, from
many points, offer most enchanting
views of the lake. The demesne ex-
tends from near the Victoria Hotel on
the N. to Ross Peninsula inclusive on
the S. The little river Deenagh di-
vides it into 2 portions, in one of
which is Rnockrier Hill, a hillock
generally ascended for the sake of the
view.
The peninsula of Ross is 158
acres in extent, and is connected with
the mainland by a causeway, which
in the high level of winter is flooded,
so as really to make it what it is ge-
nerally called, Ross Island. On this
neck of land is Ross Castle, a fortress
of about the 15th cent., consisting of
a graceful tower or keep —
** Where ivy clasps the fissured stones
With its entwining arms,"
surrounded by outworts, flanked by
small circular towers at the angles.
The interior contains apartments
from which exquisite lake views are
obtained : indeed, it is to its situation
more ^lan its intrinsic interest that
Ross owes its celebrity. Although
its founder is unknown, there is every
reason to believe that it was the resi-
dence of O'Donoghue, the Tjord of the
liower Lake, or rather of O'Donoghue
More, one of the 3 &unilies into which
the main branch was divided.
It played no inconsiderable part in
the civil war of 1641, when it surren-
dered to Ludlow, " who was attended
in the expedition by Lord Broughil
and Sir Hardress Waller, and was
the last place that held out in Mun-
ster against the Enghsh parliament.
At the end of the siege the son of the
Lord Muskerry (who held the castle)
and Sir Daniel O'Brien were deli-
vered up 618 hostages for the per-
formance of the treaty ; in conse-
quence of which about 5000 Irish,
^Ireland.']
horse and foot, laid down theiir arms
and delivered up their horses.*'
The remainder of the peninsula of
Ross, which is generally the place of
embarkation for Killamey visitors, is
prettily laid out and planted. A
copper-mine was opened at one time,
and promised to be productive, until
the water got in and drowned it.
The visitor should not omit to try
the echoes under the castle, if the
guides or any of the party happen to
have a bugle.
From the entrance to Kenmare
House the well-sheltered road con-
tinues due S., crossing 1 m. the Fiesk
at a pretty reach in the river. On the
1. is Danesfort (S. Horsley, Esq.), and
rt. the Lake Hotel.
2J m. is the hamlet of Cloghreen,
and on rt. the exquisite grounds of
Mtickross Abbey, the seat of Gapt.
Herbert.
The visitor who has rowed round
the Middle Lake will have seen a
great portion of the beauties of this
charming place, which as far as
landscape goes has no equal in the
kingdom.
A very handsome Elizabethan
building has been built of late years
to supersede the old house, from de-
signs by Mr. Biuns. The attraction
of Muckross, in addition to its scenery,
is the Abbey ^ the entrance to which is
at the further gate, near the village
and hotels.
The foundation of Muckross or
Irrelagh is ascribed to McCarthy,
Prince of Desmond, one of the
most powerful of the clans who held
property near the Lake, and the
representative of the kings of Mun-
ster. The date of the building is
stated by Archdale to be 1440, and
by the Four Masters to be of the 1 2th
cent. It was, however, re-edified or
restored in the IGth cent., as we learn
from a Latin inscription on a stone in
the wall of the choir. The plan of
the ch. is that of nave and choir, be-
tween which is a low square tower.
On the S. side of the nave is a trans..
290
Route 31. — MaMauj to Tralee^
Ireland.
and on the N. the cloisters, with
the oonveutual offices, cousisting of
refectory with vaulted apartment
underneath, dormitory with cellar,
and Abbot's hoiue. There is also a
small sacristy attached to the choir.
The tower is supported by 4 narrow
pointed arches, and contained one
bell, which has long since disajn
peared. There is a pointed doorway
at the W. end, and an exquisite 4-light
eastern window.
"The chancel is in mutation of
the style of the end of the 13th cent.,
the nave and transept in that of tiie
14th, and the central tower in that
of the Ibihr -Gent. Mag.
The chief beauty of Muckross ia the
cloisters, which are remarkably per-
fect. A small door leads from the N.
trans, to them. They consist of a
series of graceful arches ranged round
the sides of a quadrangle abouj; 50 ft.
square, and lighting a vaulted am-
bulatory. On the S. and E. sides
these arches are circular-headed,
while the remainder are pointed. The
buttresses are carried sloping from
the ground, as at Adare, without
any uprights. The interior of the
square is almost filled up by a
gigantic yew-tree, with a girth
of 13 ft., which spreads branches
throughout the whole area of the
cloisters. At the angles of the am-
bulatory are staircases, mounting to
the conventual apaiiiments, viz., the
kitchen, refectory with its large fire-
place and arched recess for side-
board, and the dormitories.
In the centre of the choir is the
modern tomb of the family of Mc-
Carthy More. The care which is
bestowed on the abbey and precincts
is a pleasant contrast to the ne-
glect generally observable in Irish
abbey ruins, where in nine cases out
of ten the mouldering reUcs of hu-
manity are left bleaching in the open
air.
Olose to the hotel a road turns
off on the 1. to Mangerton, which
rears its huge mass to the height of
2756 ft. It is not by any means a
picturesque mountain, being rounded
and monotonous in outline ; but
it is a favourite ascent with Kil-
larney visitors, on account of the
magnificent view gained from the
summit, and its easy accessibility,
a fair road winding up alm(^
to the top, so that l£^es can ride
up. When the visitor gains a pla-
teau at about a third of the height
he finds, as usual, the €id Ubitum ac-
companiment of mountain-dew girls,
buglers, and idle guides, who from
their elevated resting-places can spy
every traveller. The pedestrian need
not imagine, therefore, that he can
dodge them by leaving the road, for
they are sure to cut him off some-
where. At the steepest point, f of
the way up, it will be observed that
Mangerton, although so regular in
outline from below, is abruptly di-
vided into two great depressions, the
one to the W. being a crater-like hol-
low, from which the mountain rises
steeply on every side, the hollow
being oocupietlbya considerable tarn
known a.s the Devil's Punchbowl, from
which issues one of the streams that
contribute to form Tore waterfelL
An old hag has her station at a
little well at the mouth of the Bowl,
who, true to the creed of the natives,
endeavours to levy a toll on the cre-
dulous visitor.
From hence a very steep ** breath*
er " lands the visitor on the summit
of Mangerton, when he will perceive
that the eastern boundary waU of the
Punchbowl is very narrow, and se-
parates it from a much more precipi*
tons and magnificent cwm or come,
known as Glenacappul, or the Horses*
Glen, as fine a bit of scenery as any
in the district. A chain of 3 small
tarns. Lough Erhogh, Lough Ma*
nagh, and Lough Garagarry, are al-
most entirely hemmed in by the
precipitous clififs of the mountains
around, the hill which immediately
adjoins, and in fact forms part of
! Mangerton, being called Stoompa.
Ireland. BotUe 31.— Tore — Looscaunagh Lough,
291
A little more to the E., situated in
a basin at the junction of the bases of
Mangerton and Crohane (2102 ft.), is
the large deep lake of Lough Guitanet
where the fisher is sure of good sport.
The trout grow to a great size, one
weighing 50 lbs. having been cap-
tured in this lake. It is, however,
not easy to fish without a boat.
The view from Mangerton is su-
perb, embracing in the E. Orohane,
the Paps, Oahirbarnagh, and all that
extensive country lying between Mill-
street, Mallow, and Tipperary, with
the blue range of the Graltees in the far
distance. Northward, and to the W. is
Tralee, with the Slieve-mish moun-
tains in the neighbourhood of Dingle
and Ventry, while a faint white line
in the horizon marks the north
estuary of the Shannon as it flows
past Tarbert and Kilrush. Due west
are the Tore, the Purple mountains,
and the Heeks, with Oastlemaine Ha-
ven and the Laune running at their
feet ; to the B. is an immense sea
of hills occupying the district to-
wards Kenmare. The Bays of Ken-
mare and Bantry are prominent ob-
jects in this view— a view which
never can be blotted out from the
memory. At the foot lie the Iiakes
of Killamey to. all their beauty, with
the thick woods and groves encircling
their shores. It ought to be men-
tioned that views, much superior to
Mangerton, can be obtained from
the Purple Mt.
3i a road on rt. turns off to Ken-
mare, being in fact the old road run-
ning between Tore and Mangerton,
never used now except by pedestrians.
It is a fine walk up the Owen-
garriffKiver (on which is the Tore
waterfall) to Galway's Ford, 5 m.,
from whence a short cross-road leads
to Galway's Bridge, On the new road,
some little distance below the Police
Barracks.
About } of the distance there is a
very pretty fall, called Cores Cascade,
occurring on the river Crinnagh, at the
entrance of the Ebkraimucky glen.
41 m. The visitor should turn up
the ravine of the Owengarriff, and
follow the well-kept walks to the Tore
Waterfall. It is a fine fall of 60 ft.,
although, like most others, it requires
a large volume of water to give it due
effect. The steep rocky sides of the
glen are thickly planted, and it is at
all times a very charming and pic-
turesque spot.
From Tore the road runs by the
side of the lake. It is beautifully
shaded by woods, and as the altitude
becomes increcised the views over the
Upper Lake in particular defy all de-
scription. At the base of Cromaglan
mountain an additional effect is
obtained by a tunnel through which
the road is carried.
10 m. Galway's Bridge, where the
old road to Kenmare may be joined.
A little above the bridge the Galway
and the Ullauns streams unite, and
in their steep course downwards to
the lake form a broken and majestic
faU, known as Derrycunihy cascade.
In fact, the whole course of this
moimtain river may be said to be a
continuous cascade, and the effect is
wonderfully increased by the foliage
that so thickly borders it.
Further on, we arrive at the Mul-
grave Police Barrack, a lonely cas-
tellated house, which seems put there
for no other purpose than for the con-
stabulary to enjoy the view, so
strangely out of place does it appear.
12,^ m. Looscaunagh Lough is a wild
and rather dreary-looking sheet of
water on the table-land at the sum-
mit of the hill ; and there is a road-
side inn, generally considered the
terminus of this excursion. From
hence it is 7 m. to Kenmare. A new
road of about 2 m. in length has
been made by Mr. Preston White
through his property, near the upper
lake, which enables the tourist to
drive all round the lake, and obtain
some of the most unique views in the
district.
The ascent of Carraniuohill (3414
ft.), the highest ground in Ireland, is
0 2
292
Rovie 31. — Mallow to Tralee.
Irelani>.
undertaken comparatively rarely from
Killamey, as the dist^ce is long,
and the ground very trying. More-
over, the liability to mist and clouds
is even greater here than in most
mountain districts, and after a long
and wearisome journey, the tourist
has to retrace his steps without gain-
ing his point.
As regards lake views, it is not
nearly so good as Mangerton ; but
the character and features of the
Reeks is so entirely different— so
precipitous and riven with gullies,
that it is worth the toil of an excur-
sion to investigate them.
The distance by the nearest way
is 15 m. from Killamey. There are
2 or 3 ways of proceeding ; one by
the Cummeenduff, or Black Valley ;
also the Gap of Dunloe, at tne
entrance of which a bridle-road turns
off to the ri, crossing the Loe, and
passing a hamlet near Oullenagh,
where a guide should be obtained ;
but the most usual way is to proceed
on the Killorglin road as far as
Churchtown, and turn up to the hills,
following the course of a largish
stream called the Gaddagh (accent
on the last syllable), the scenery at
the head of which is magnificently
grand.
The river emerges from 2 lakes.
Lough Gouragh and Lough Callee,
between which is the Hag^ Glen, at
the very base of Carrantuohill, which
frowns upon it, as though forbidding
further approach. To the rt. is the
mountain of Knockbrinnea (Knock
a Brian hu, " The Hill of the Sheep
Raddle,") 2782 ft., from the sides of
which project the Hag's Teeth, sin-
gular rocks, resembling the but-
tress of some mouldering edifice.
For about \ m. the path continues
up the steep, through rocks, stones,
long grass, moss, and shingle. When-
ever a steady footing is obtained for
a moment, you are induced to turn
find enjoy the scenery ; but from the
deep reteeat in which the pathway
iq embosomed, the view is greatly
contracted, and altogether inter-
rupted towards the W.
The way to the highest peak lies
along the summit of a ridge, some-
thing like the red ridge (clawdd-coch)
of Suowdon, the top of which is a
narrow convex, and covered with
grass so short and slippery that it
can hardly be walked over in dry
weather unless in stocking-feet.
The summits of the Reeks are com-
posed of a species of shingle, which
after heavy falls of snow loosens and
unbinds, gliding down the moun-
tain's breast in the thaw. For this
reason naturalists say, **the heiglit
of the Reeks may have been sensibly
diminished in the lapse of time." —
Wright
The principal magnificence of the
view from Carrantuohill is in the sea-
coast stretching from the Shannon
round by Dingle, Castlemaine, Va-
lentia, Kenmare, and Bantry, to Cape
Clear.
As regards the Lakes of Killamey,
they are to a great extent hidden ; but
a fine view is obtained of Lough Cur-
raghmore (Rte. 35), togelher with an
immense number of small tarns. The
tourist may descend, with care, into
the Black Valley, but this will depend
on his arrangements, for unless he
has a boat ordered for him at the head
of the Upper Lake, he will find him-
self in no mood for the walk to Kil-
lamey after his mountain travels.
The following is the comparative
heights of Carrantuohill with a few
other British mountains : —
Carrantuohill 3414
Siiowdon 3571
Ingleboro' 2361
Ben Nevis 4368
Ben Lomond 3197
Cader Idris 2914
Slieve-Donard 2796
Nephln 2646
Lugnaquilla ..... 3039
Distances from Killamey. — ^Mal-
low, 41 m. ; Tralee, 24 ; Millstreet,
21 ; Aghadoe, 2 J ; Dunloe, 7 ; Beau-
fort Bridge, 5 ; Miltown, 11 ; Kil-
lorglin, 12 ; Head of the Dunloe
Ireland. BotUe 31. — Geology ofKiUarney District,
293
Gkp, 11; Lord Brandon's cottage,
11 ; Glena, 4 ; O'Sullivan's Cascade,
4 ; InnisfaUen, 2 ; Boss Gastle, 1^ ;
Muckross,3; TorcWaterf6dl,4J; Man-
gerton Summit, 7; Police Barrack,
9 J ; Eskraimucky Glen, 7 ; Lough
I^oscaunagh, 12 ; Kenmare, 19 ;
Cahirciveen, 37 ; Valentia, 40 ; Glen-
garrifi^ 36.
The geology of the Killarney dis-
trict is by no means intricate, the
entire district belonging to the eras
of the Old Bed Sandstone and the
Limestone. The low ground to the
E. of BliUarney is composed of car-
boniferous limestone, which is also
observed at the peninsula of Boss,
and the various islands of the Lower
Lake, such as Innisfallen, Babbit Is-
land, &c,
"On Innisfallen we have beds
which from their flag^iness and con-
tinuous chert beds, and being inter-
stratified with dark grey shales, may
possibly belong to the base of the
Lower Limestone, just above the lower
shales. The general dip is either
to the N. or S., at angles varying
from 20^ to 80^, and frequently they
are vertical. From the amazing con-
tortion to which these beds have
been subjected, a thickness of 100 ft.
of them would be sufficient to form
the island. Along the W. shores of
Boss Island and me opposite coast of
Boss Bay, we find beds of dark grey
flaggy limestone, dipping to the S.,
and in many instances reversed and
inverted in sharp curves. At the
N.W. point of the island is a spot
called O'Donohue's Library, where
the alternate layers of chert and lime-
stone weathering out unequally give
the broken fragments of the rock an
appearance not unlike that of a lot of
large books tumbled about." — Choi.
Survey.
This plain of limestone is continued
to the W., occupying the synclinal
axis between the Slieve-Mish (Tra-
lee) and the Beek chain of moun-
tains. Both these ranges, like all the
mountains in this district, are Old
Bed, which have been upheaved by
forces acting from below, and after-
wards acted upon from above by
denudation.
The chain of which Mangerton is a
portion is also Old Bed, like the
Purple Mountains, Toomies, and the
Beeks, principally composed of green
and red grits and shales, the lower
being green and coarsely arenaceous^
known as Glengarriff grits, while the
upper strata are characterized by a
pur^e hue.
" The Mangerton range is traversed
by a great anticlinal curve, one side
dipping to the S. towards Kenmare,
and the other to the N., towards
Mucross and Lough Guitane. The
upper beds, known as the yellow
sandstones, do not occur often. They
may be seen at the entrance to the
Gap of Dunloe, and (probably) at
O'SuUivan's Cascades. In the Gap
of Dunloe, at the S. of the Bhxck
Lake, a great fault is observable,
having a strike of W.NW. across
the valley, and causing a downthrow
on the N.E. side. By this fault the
lower GlengaJriflF grits appear in jux-
taposition with the purple upper
beds."
The thickness of the Old Bed in
this district is very great. " The
precipice on the N.E. flank of Car-
rantuoghal, from the summit of the
mountain to Lough Callee, exposes
beds to the thickness of 2318 ft., and
tiiis mostly in the purple subdivisions
of the group. On the S. side of Cum-
meenduff Glen a section is obtained
of 5525 ft., through part of the Glen-
garriff grit series with the purple
beds ; while Mr. O'Kelly determines
the thickness of one section over the
mountain to the W. of the Bladk-
water at not less than 8000 ft."
TaJting, therefore, the yellow sand-
stones, we arrive at a thickness of
something like 12,000 ft. With the
exception of a few imperfect and rare
plant impressions, the labours of the
fossil collectors have proved unre-
warded.
294
Soute 31. — MaUow to TraLee.
Ireland.
We must not» however, omit to
mention that igneous rocks occur to
the S. of Lough Guitane, in a hill
called Bennavonmore, in the form of
felstone of a columnar structure, and
of felstone ash in the glen of the Gap-
pagh river, and the north slopes of the
bill between Stoompa and Eskduff.
Taking into consideration the inter-
stratification of the ashes with the
sandstones, it is most likely that the
intrusion occurred in the Old Bed
sandstone era.
Perhaps the most interesting fea-
ture in Killamey geology is that of
the Glacial era, known as drift.
From Cahirbamagh to Killamey, all
along the north base of the Paps,
Croghane, and Mangerton, is observ-
able a steep slope of drift and boul-
der deposit, and it is particularly
well seen near the spot where the
riy. joins the Flesk, which has cut
its course through this drift. At Kil-
lamey itself it disappears, but reap-
pears again on each side of the Gtep
of Dunloe, and runs W. all the way
to Killorglin.
Of course, with such a formidable
tonge of mountain precipices, there
are plenty of glacial groovings and
evidences of glaciers. The best and
most accessible are in the Ghip of
Dunloe, about 1 ra. from the north
entrance. ** It consists of 3 lunette-
shaped mounds of local boulder
driH; sand, and gravel, arranged in a
rude, concentric form, one beyond
the other, across the mouth of the
Gap, the 2 entire mounds measuring
fully 1 m. in length by 100 yards in
width. The 8.E. termination of the
2 outer moraines rests on the flank
of the Purple Mt., at an elevation
of about 400 ft. The inner mound
is only 650 yds. in length by 150 in
width, and it is cut through in its
central part by the Loe, the road to
Killamey also passing through the
cutting. On the E. side of the Gap
entrance, and at the base of Toomies
rock, the drift is arranged in massive
mounds. These have been steeply
escarped at an angle of fully 30° to
the W. The two last deposits left
by the glacier, as the local cliioate
became warmer, may now be seen on
the N. flanks of Tomies, and at the
N. end of the Black Lcike, the former
at an elevation of 800 ft., and the
latter 512 ft., or 178 ft. above the
waters of the Lake."— 6reoZ. Survey,
There can be no doubt that the
Lake of Killamey was once mnch
more extensive than it is now, and
that there has been a good deal of
local elevation ; and as a proofs the
geologist may visit some limestone
rocks in the pasture-land of the S.
part of Oahemane demesne, very
much waterwom, and in fact perfectly
eaten away at the base.
Of plants and ferns there is more
abundance than there b of fossils.
Of ferns the following are found :^
Polypodlnm dryopterlfl . .Tore Monntaln.
Aspidium theljpteris . . .Mackross Demesne.
A. Fellx-mas Mangerton.
Asplenlum viride Tore Mountain.
A. adiantmn nigrum . . .On the limesttxie
rocks atMu<^n)fls.
A. filix foemina Muckross.
Scolopendrium vulgare..
Pteris aqullina
'iVichomnnes brevisetnm.Tore WaterfaU.
Hymenophyllum Wllsoni Killamey.
Osmunda regalis
Ophioglossnm vulgatum.
Lycopodium alpinum . . .Mangertoxu
lOqui^etum varlegatum . .Muckross.
Tballctrum minus Gap of Dunloe Isle.
Nympbtea all>a Reelcs.
I)ral)a incana Tore. Mangerton,
Saxifraga geum Tore.
S. elegans Dunloe.
S. birsuta On CarrantuohUU
S. serratifolia Dunloe.
S. hirta CarrantuohiO.
Rubia peregrina Muckross.
Lobelia Dortmanna Lakes.
Solidago cambrica Mangerton.
Hieracium molle Reeks.
H. sabaudum Ross Island.
Apargia taraxaci Reeks.
Erica dnerea Muckross.
Arbutus unedo Islands in Lake.
Orobanctae minor Muckross Abbey.
Melampyrum prat Mangert(m.
Scutellina galericuense . .Lower Lake.
S. minor lata...
Oxyria reniformis Reeks.
Paris quadrifolia Ross.
Rhynoospora fusca From Upper Lake.
Garex rigida Camuituohill.
Ireland.
Bovie 32. — Limerick to Trcdee.
295
Dicranom jQagellare ....In woods at Qlen-
flesk, very rare.
D. falvellnm Reeks.
Hypnum micans Woods nr. Elllamey.
H. crasslnerviam Mnckross.
H. confertum Tore Waterfall.
Hygropbila irrlgua Do.
Jungermannia Lyellil . . . Woods nr. Klllamey.
J. ^haerocarpa Tore Waterfall.
J. scntata Do.
J. Woodsii MangertoD.
The fishing in Killarney Lakes
ought to be first-rate, but it is not,
as regards angling, the usual method
being cross-fishing, by which a good
many salmon are secured. For the
angler the rivers are the best sport.
The Flesk is very good for trout,
and when there is plenty of water,
for salmon ; but it is far surpassed by
the Laune, where both salmon and
trout fishing are remarkably ^ood.
There is also good trout-fishing in
Lough Guitane, but it will require a
boat, which would have to be sent
from Killarney. The salmo ferox
is plentiful in this last lake.
It would, perhaps, be scarcely fair
to dismiss Killarney without refer-
ring to its legends, although to re-
count them in detail would be foreign
to the purpose of a handbook; and
moreover, the visitor wiU hear plenty
of them from the boatmen and guides,
wlio will spin yarns in proportion to
the willingness or credulity of their
listeners. The O'Donoghue is, of
course, the staple hero. ** Every
rock of imusual form is forced into
an illustration of his story. The
guides will point out to the tourist
O'Donoghue's house, prison, stable,
library, pigeon-house, table, cellar,
honeycomb, pulpit, and his broom;
while scores of the peasantry may be
encountered who have as firm a belief
in the existence of the spirit chief-
tain as they have in their own : and
there are persons of education who
do not hesitate to express their
opinion as to the truth of his pe-
riodical appearance." — HaU,
This appearance happens every
Hay mommg at sunrise, when the
O'Donoghue emerges from the water
armed cap-k-pie, and mounted on
his favourite white steed, and rides
over the territorial waters on which
he once held sway. Fortunate is
that person who catches a glimpse
of him, for good luck is sure to fol-
low him.
'• For when the last April sun grows dim.
Thy Naiads prepare his steed for him
Who dwells, bright lake. In thee.
Of all the proud steeds that ever bore
Young plumed chiefs on sea or shore.
White steed, most Joy to thee,
Who still, with the young first glance of
spring.
From under that glorious lake dost bring
My love, my chief to me."
MOOBE.
The remainder of the route from
Killarney to Tralee does not require
much description. The line runs
through a dreary boggy country,
which offers a wonderful contrast to
the beauties that the tourist has just
left — a noticeable feature, by the
way, in the best Irish scenery, which,
like an oasis in the desert, is always
approached through a melancholy
and ugly country.
Near Farranfore stat., 52 m. the
river Manin is crossed in its course
towards Castlemaine. Very near its
source is the little town of Castle
Island, at the foot of the Olanrud-
dery mountains. There are slight
remains of the old fortress, but
scarcely of sufficient interest to war-
rant a divergence thither.
63 m. Tralee (Rte. 32). {Hotd:
Blennerhasset Arms, bad.)
ROUTE 32.
FBOM LIMERICK TO TRALEE.
Three routes lie open to the tour-
ist:—
1. B^ steamer every second day,
from Lomerlck down the Lower Shan-
296
BatUe 82. — lAmerich to Tralee.
Irelani>.
non, calling at Beigh, Foynes, Glin,
Tarbert, and Kilrush.
2. By rail to Foynes ; and firom
thence by steamer to Tarbert
3. By mail car all the way to
Tralee.
It will be safficient to point ont
the various places passed by the
steamer in its course, which cannot
be yisited except they lie near the
landing-places.
Gliding past the quays of Limerick
and leaving in the distance the tower
of the cathedral, the steamer enters
the Pool, which is bordered by nu-
merous pretty villas. Soon the river
bends, naving on rt. the towers of
Coreen Castle, and to 1. Si m. the
demesnes of Tervoe (Hon. W. Mon-
sell, M.P.), and Cooperhill (J. C.
Cooper, Esq.), behind which rise,
from its eminence, the ruins of Car-
rigagunnell Castle.
5 m. rt are the keeps of Castle
Donnell, Cratloekeel, and Cratloe,
backed up by the woods of Cratloe,
at the foot of which runs the Ennis
rly. ; and fine views are gained of the
Clare hills, that lie between this dis-
trict and Killaloe.
10 m. passing sundry islands which
are grouped about the widening
stream, is on rt. Bunratty Castle,
situated a little distance up the Bun-
ratty river. This together with the
foregoing ruins are noticed in Kte.
33. On the 1. shore is the mouth of
the Maigue, a considerable stream
that rises in the S. of the county, and
flows past Croom and Adare. A
long shoal now intervenes in the
tideway, breaking up the channel
into N. and 8.
13 m. 1. is the little pier of King-
moylan, the port, if it may be called
so, for Pallaskenry, which lies 2 m.
to the S. Farther still on 1. are the
demesnes of Castletown (Rev. W.
Waller), and Bushy Park, the latter
near the station of
16 m. Beaghf the landing-place
for travellers to Askeaton (p. 299).
Close to the quay are remaios of the
ancient castle of Beagh ; the parish
of Iverus, in which it is situated,
deriving its name from a Danish
adventurer who built a ch. here. The
whole district abounds with raths.
From the quay it is 4| m. to Ask-
eaton. Nearly opposite is the broad
embouchure of the Fergus, which
runs up to Castle Clare (Rte. 33), aud
is the means of supplying from, that
county immense stores of grain and
provisions. There are at this point
considerable islands and sand-l^nks,
which do not by any means add to the
security of the navigation. Passing^
1. the mouth of the little river Deel,
we arrive at 24 m. Foynes, the snug
little harbour and terminus of the
Limerick and Foynes Rly., sheltered
from the N. by Foynes Island. On
the N. bank of the Shannon, which
is here nearly 2 m. in breadth, are
the village of Killadysert and the
demesne of Cahircon (— Kelly, Esq.),
one of the finest residences on the
Lower Shannon.
2. The Foynes and Limerick Kly.
leaves the general station in com-
pany with the other lines, soon turns
off to the S., and runs through an
iminteresting district to
7J m. Patrick's WeU, the junction
of the direct Cork and Limerick
Rly., which runs through Bruree and
Croom to Oharleville, there joining
tiie Great Southern and Western
(Rte. 25).
[About halfway between Patrick's
Well and Limerick, to the N. of the
line, is the village of
Mungret, where the antiquary will
find several ecclesiastical ruins. A
monastery for Augustines was founded
here by St. Patrick, and, notwith-
standing repeated destruction by the
Danes, was always re-edified, and
continued to flourish until the Disso-
lution, containing, according to the
Saltair of Cashel, an establishment
of 1500 monks. The ruins are those
of the walls of the nave and choir,
which was lighted by a Pointed E.
window, and of a square embattled
Ireland.
Batde 32. — Mamater — Adare,
297
tower. Besides this abbey, there are
remains of 2 chs. and of a castle a
little to the N.l
In the neighbourhood of St. Pa-
trick's Well are Faha (T. Kussell,
Esq.), Elm Park (Lord Clarina),
Spring Lodge, to the rt. of the rly.,
and Attyflin (D. Westropp, Esq.),
Fortetna, and Green Mount (F.
Green, Esq.) to the 1.
[The direct Cork line runs due S.
to 6 m. Croom, passing on 1. the tower
of Ballinveala, and on rt. that of Fan-
ningstown. Oroow is rather prettily
sitiiated on the Maigue, which is here
crossed by a bridge of 6 arches, and
is a town of some antiquity, appear-
ing to have derived its name firom its
connexion with the KUdaxe femily,
and their motto " Crom-a-boo." The
castle, which is now modernised and
the residence of Col. Dickson, M.P.,'
was bmlt by one of the Earls of
Kildare.
1 m. W. of the town (cucross coun-
try) are the ch. and roimd tower of
Dysart, the latter very similar to that
of Battoo, 00. Kerry (Rte. 33J. It
is divided into stories, with a window
for each. Notice the window with a
semicircular head externally. ** while
its internal construction preserves the
quadrangular form by a lintel which
rests on the jambs." — Fetrie, The
adjacent ch. is of the same date as the
tower.
2^ m. E. on the Commoge« a tribu-
tary of the Maigue, is the ruined
Abbey of Monasteranenagh or Mar
nister, founded by O'Brien, King of
Munster, in 1151, to commemorate
the defeat of the Danes at the ad-
joining fortress of Bathmore, and was
both in extent and political import-
ance one of the first in the kingdom.
It most probably was a cruciform
building, although now only the nave
is left, with side aisles and the choir,
which was separated from the nave
by a screen. The latter was lighted
by a good 3-light Early Eng. window,
and was remarkable for possessing
above the roofs a chamber or croft of
the same dimensions as the choir,
and approached by a private staircase
from the altar through the wall of the
N. aisle.
In the neighbourhood of Croom
are Caherass House (Sir D. Boche,
Bart.), Croom House CH. liyons,
Esq.), and Islandmore (]^. Maxwell,
Esq.).
The line now follows up the valley
of the Maigue, passing 8 m. Oluny-
grove and Glen Bevan, to
13 m. Bruree, which possesses re-
mains of a strong " triple " fortress of
the De Lacy, enclosed by a rampart
waU more tiian 120 yds. roimd. There
is also dose to the ch. a castellated
building erected by the Knights
Tempktfs, in the 12th cent. Bruree
House is the residence of Captain
Shelton.
18 m. CharlevUle. Bte. 25.J
The next station on the Foyneg
line is 11 m. Adare, the woods and
ruins of which are very prettily seen
from the rly., and which doubtless
prave the name of " Ath-Dara," the
Ford of Oaks. The history of Adare
is intimately associated witn the great
femily of Fitzgerald, Earls of Kil-
dare, who founded the 3 Abbeys and
erected the castle. The whole of the
estate reverted to the Crown on the
rebellion of Thomas Fitzgerald, other-
wise Silken Thomas, The castle sub-
sequently sustained some sieges at
the hanoB alternately of the Desmonds
and the English* and was ultimately
dismantled by Oromwell. The ruins
are situated on the banks of the
Maigue, and, together with the long
narrow bridge of 14 arches^ are a very
picturesque item in the scene.
Adare is particularly rich, in eccle-
siastical remains^ and as fortimate in
owning in the Earl of Dimraven, a
proprietor of the soil who is not only
resident and interested in the locality,
but a zealous and earnest antiquary,
bent on the due preservation of these
beautiful ruins. Adare Manor has
been of late years rebuilt in very good
taste of limestone from the estate, and
o3
298
Boute 32. — Limerick to Tralee.
Ireland.
is now one of the handsomest resi-
dences in Ireland. The abbeys are
three: —
1. The Trinitarian Abbey, found-
ed 1230, is an Early Eng. build-
ing, consisting of nave and choir,
now used as a Roman Catholic
chapel, and surmoimted by an em-
battled tower. It is situated near
the entrance of the park, and has
been restored with great care. There
is some excellent stained glass in
the interior. Notice also the schools,
wliich are in keeping with the rest
of the ch., together with a very
beautiful cross and well.
2. The Augrustinian Abbey (date
1306 >, near the bridge, has oeen
in like manner converted to the uses
of the parochial ch., and contains
on the N. side, in addition to the
nave, choir, and tower, the cloisters
which have been restored by the
late Earl of Dunraven, who built a
mausoleum close by. The refectory
has been happily appropriated for a
Bchoolhouse.
3. By fiir the most beautiful ruin is
that of the Franciscan Abbey (date
1464), within the groimdsof the Manor,
though on the opposite side of the
river. This also has a nave, choir,
and 8. transept, with a very graceful
tower rising from the intersection;
and attached to the transept are
chapels and oratories. The nave con-
tains 3 crocketed niches and an Early
Pointed 3-light W. window. The
S. trans, is a little to the W. of the
intersection, and has on the E. 2
beautiful little chapels, also with
niches. A door on the N. side leads
to the cloisters, which are in good
preservation, together with the refec-
tory and domestic offices. The in-
terior of the choir has some elabo-
rately worked niches and sedilla and
an exquisite 4-light window.
There are 2 ruined churches in
the ch.-yard; one the Old Parish
Ch., the other a chapel of 14th cent.
The ruins of the Castle are most
extensive* consisting of an inner
ward surrounded by a moat, and
enclosed by a spacious quadrangle.
The keep or central tower (which
may be ascended) is defende<l by a
gateway connected with the tower by
a semicircular flanking wall on one
side. It is thus placed in connexion
with the E. side of the inner court.
The grounds of the demesne are
charmingly wooded, and the river
Maigue flowing through them
affords excellent salmon and trout
fishing. Admission to the park is
obtained by ticket from the inn.
An antiquarian work on the eccle-
siastical remains of Adare has been
undertaken by the noble owner.
Continuing his course by the rail«
the traveller passes L Clonsire House
(W. Power, Esq.), and rt. Hollywood
(G. Hewston, Esq.). 3m.rt. isCor-
ragh Chase, the magnificent seat of
Sir Vere de Vere, Bart., situated in
a very large park, embellished with
a lake and much wood.
17 m. Rathkeale Stat. The town
of Rathkeale, nearly 2 m. to the S., is
a long straggling place on the river
Deel, though the second largest town
in CO. Limerick, and contains some
ecclesiastical ruins. The Earl of
Desmond built a castle, which was
repaired in the reign of Elizabeth by
Sir Walter Baleigh, and has since
been rendered habitable. There are
also remains of an Early Eng. priory,
founded by one Gilbert Harvey in
the 13th cent., and consisting of side
walls, gable, and tower. In the
neighbourhood of the town are Rath-
keale Abbey (G. Leech, Esq.), Castle
Matrix, Beei3hmount(T. Lloyd, Esq.\
Ballywilliam (D. Maunsell, Esq.),
and Mount Browne (J. Browne, Esq.)
[the last on the road to BaUingarry,
which lies 5 m. to the S.E.
Here is another Franciscan monas-
tery in ruins, though with the ex-
ception of the tower there is little
worth seeing; also a castellated
building in the town, known as the
Parson's Castle; and the ruins oi
two others, Lissamoota and Wood-
Ireland.
Soute 32. — AskecUon — Foynes,
299
stock, in the neighbourhood. The
countay near Bailingarry becomes a
little more hilly and striking, rising
at Knockfearina to nearly 1000 ft. A
conical heap now occupies the site of
what is said to have been an ancient
temple.]
[7 m. to the S.W. on the direct
road to Abbeyfeale and Listowel, is
the town of
Newcastle (anc. Nua) {Inns : Vic-
toria ; CJourtenay Arms), on the river
Arra, a small tributary of the Deel.
After the death of the great Earl of
Desmond, the property was granted
by Elizabeth to the Courtenay &mily,
in whose hands it still remains. Of
the castle, there are still several
round and square towers, together
with the banqueting hall. Close to
the town are Ringwood and Oistle
View (Rev. R. Rodwell).
Conveyances. — To Abbeyfeale and
to Rathkeale, daily.]
The line now makes a sudden bend
to the N.W., passing rt. Nantinan
Oh. and House^ and crossing the
Deel, arrives at
21 m. AskecUon (ano. Eas-Geph-
tine), another town of the Fitz-
geralds, who, according to their
wont, defended it by a s&ong castle,
and adorned it wim a magnificent
abbey for Oonventual Franciscans in
1420, in which James Fiti^gerald, 15th
Earl of Desmond and High Treasurer
of Ireland, was buried in 1558. The
scenery of the Deel, which runs
through the demesne of Inchirourke
More, a little above the line, is ren-
dered broken and romantic by a
waterMl and salmon leap ; but below
this the Deel becomes tidal, allowing
small coasters to approach. Over-
looking the river from a rock of lime-
stone, are the ruins of the Desmonds'
Castle, of which the great hall with
its windows are in fiair preservation,
together with a large arched vault
beneath. The parish ch. was a com-
mandery of the Knights Templars,
and still shows a portion of the ancient
building of the date of the 13th cent.
in the ruins of the S. transept, which'
was separated from the nave by 2
Early Pointed arches, now blocked
up. At the E. end rose 2 towers,
square at the base and octangular
above. The Franciscan or Rock Ab-
bey is on the E. bank of the river,
a little to the N. of the town. It
was a magnificent cruciform ch., of
later date than most that the tourist
has visited in this part of Ireland.
The cloisters are remarkably perfect,
and are enclosed on e£ich side by 12
Pointed arches, supported by cylin-
drical columns with richly foliaged
capitals. The line now approaches
the coasts and inlets of the Shannon,
and arrives at the terminus of
26 m. FoyneSf where the traveller
embarks on board the steamer and
sails out into the channel of
" The spacious Shenan spreading like a sea,"
the banks of which are prettily
wooded, although of not sufficient
height to be called bold. The geo-
logist may be glad to know that
good coal-plants and shells have
been found in the coal-shales near
Foynes (Introd. p. xxvii.). Soon after
leaving Foynes, the tourist passes on
1, the grounds of Mount Trenchard
(Hon. S. Rice). The next stop-
page is at Glin, adjoining which
is the Castle, the seat of the Elnight
of Glin, whose femily has held it
in succession for between 600 and
700 years. The old Castle of Glin
was celebrated for its siege by Sir
George Carew, during the rebellion
of the Earl of Desmond in the
reign of Elizabeth, in which, after a
fierce hand-to-hand fight, the Knight
of Glin and hi^ gallant band were
destroyed. A fiill account of this
affidr will be found in * Pacata Hiber-
nia, or, Ireland Appeased and Re-
duced, under the Government of Sir
George Carew, some time Lord Pre-
sident of Munster.'
35 m. Tarhert, with its wooded
headland, its lighthouse, and battery,
is one of the prettiest portions of tho
800
Boute 32. — Limerick to Trcdee,
Ireland.
river. The channel, defended by the
Tarbert Battery on the S. and Kil-
kerin Battery on the N., is known
as Tarbert Reach, immediately past
which is a considerable estuary run-
ning up on the N. to Clonderalaw
Bay.
Tarbert {Hotd : Gallagher's) is a
quiet little town about 1 m. from the
landing-place, the road running by
the woods of Tarbert House (J. Pater-
son, Esq.)*
As all the routes from Limerick
converge here, the mail road must
now be described. Quitting the city
through the S.W. suburbs, the road
runs straight for 3 m. Mungret Cross
Roads, where the traveller will find a
little to the 1. the castle and ecclesi-
astical ruins (p. 296). Passing rt.
Tervoe House (Hon. W. Monsell),
and 1. Elm Park (Lord Clarina), the
isolated towers of Carrig a Gunnel (the
" Rock of the Candle ') Castle are
seen about 1^ m. to the rt. It was
built upon a basaltic rock 500 ft.
above the Shannon, by O'Brien,
Prince of Thomond, in the 14th cent.
But, though it changed hands several
times, it does not appear to have
played any important part until the
Revolution, when'it was blown up by
order of General Ginckel ; " 84 barrels
of powder being employed on account
of its great strength." Saxifraga tri-
dactylites will be found growing on
the ruins.
At 6J m. the Maigue is crossed by
a drawbridge, and the ruins of 2
castles are visible. On rt. Court
Castle, and on 1. that of Cullan, 10 m.
A road is given off to Pallaakenry,
2 m.
' Fiurther on 1. the tower of Derreen
Castle is perceived, with Castle Grey
and the fine estate of Curragh Chase.
14 m. 1. Bally England House, and
16 m. Askeaton, .
The next point of Interest is at 23
m. Shanagolden, a little to the S. of
which is the ruin of Shanld Castle,
one of the Desmonds* strongest for-
tresses, from which they derived their
war-cry of Shanid-a-boo. Between
Shanagolden and Foynes is Knock-
patrick Hill, 574 ft., commanding
a very extensive view of the Shannon
and me whole plain up to Limeiick,
together with tne hills of Clare and
Ennis on the opposite bank. On the
slope of the hill is a ch., said to have
been built by St Patrick, whose chair
and well are shown in an adjoiiiiug
field.
31 m. Glin^ from whence the road
runs pretty dose to the river, passing
Glin Castle, Westwood, Fort Shan-
non, and Ballydonohoe (T. Fitz-
gerald, Esq.), to 35 m. Tarbert.
[From Tarbert a run of 8 or 9 m.
will bring the tourist to Elilruah
{Hotd: Vandeleur Arms), a small
seaport on the Clare coaat, chiefly re-
markable for containing an excel-
lent harbour, frequently used by
ships in distress. As it is the only
port in CO. Clare really on the
seaboard, it possesses a fidr share
of trade, which in the summer time
is considerably improved by the
numbers of toiuists and fiunilies bound
for the bathing-place of Blilkee, which
is 8^ m. distant. To the S.E. of the
town is Kilrush House, the residence
of the proprietor of the soil. Colonel
Vandeleur. The antiquary should
not omit to take a boat from Kilrush
and visit the ecclesiastical remains
on Scattery Island (anc. Inis-cathaig),
where the holy St. Senanus founded
an establishment. Like St. Kevin,
he sought a remote spot, where he
vowed female foot ne'er should tiead
—not so remote, however, but that
he was found out by St. Cannera, a
female saint who wished to set up
her tent with him, but who met with
a stem refusal : —
•• The lady's prayer Senanus spnraed ;
The winds blew fresh, the bark retomed;
But legends bint, that had the maid
Till morning's light delayed
And given the saint one rosy smile.
She ne'er had left his holy isle."
According to the life of St. Senanus,
which may be found in the * Acta
Ireland.
Boute 32. — Kilkee — Loop Head.
301
Sanctorum Hibemise/ his refusal was
couched as follows ; —
** Cui Prsesul : Qui foeminis
C!ommune est cum monachls?
Nee te nee ullam aliam
Admittemus in insulam."
The remains are those of a couple
of churches of the rudest and most
primitive form, and the oratory of St.
Senanus, " which measures 18 ft. by
12. The doorway, which occupies
an unusual position in the S. side, is
6 ft. in height, 1 ft. 10 in. wide at the
top, and 2 ft. 4 in. at the bottom.
The E. window splays externally,
and in this respect is probably unique
in Ireland.*' — Wakeman. The round
tower is 22 -ft. in circumference, and
120 ft. in height, and possesses a
doorway on a level with ttie groimd,
another unusual feature. It was
struck by lightning, which caused a
great rent from the summit. St. Se-
nanus is the same who built the ch.
on Inishcalthra, in Lough Derg (Bte.
34).
Kilkee {Hotel: Moore's), the
fashionable bathing-place for the S.W.
of Ireland, is situated on a snug little
stream retreating from that terrible
line of coast rocks which form Mai-
bay, and rightly so called, for if a
vessel happen to be entangled there,
the only chances of saving the ship
are on the northern side of the inter-
mediate small inlets of Dunbeg and
liscannor. For about 20 m., that is,
from Loophead to Dunbeg, "the shore
presents on a magnificent scale the
ruins of Nature in the numerous and
endlessly varied caverns, chasms,
bays, and island-rocks, into which the
ceaseless roarings of the Atlantic
waves have broken this bold rocky
coast." — Fraser, Moore's Bay, at the
head of which Eilkee is situated,
is sheltered to a great extent by
the ledge of the Duggema Bocks ;
but a short walk only is neces-
sary to convince the tourist of the
splendid cliff scenery and the gigantic
force of the Atlantic waves. To the
N. he may wander to Ballard Bay, 4
m., where the clifis increase in height,
and contain many fine caves in their
recesses ; while to the S. it is a mag-
nificent walk to Castle Point, crown^
with the ruined tower of Doonlicha
Castle. The most prominent features
of this part of the coast are Grean's
Kock and Bishop's Island, an im-
mensely bold, escarped rock, called
in Irish Oilean-an-Easpoig-gortaigh
(the Island of the Hungry Bishop), a
name that well signifies the barren
and savage aspect and the diflSculty
of reaching it. There is on it, how-
ever, a fine specimen of Bee-hive
oratory and a house. "The exte-
rior feloe of the waU, at four different
heights, recedes to the depth of about
1 ft. ; a peculiarity not found in any
other structure of the kind, and pro-
bably introduced with the view of
lessening the weight of the dome-
shaped roof, which was formed, not
on the principle of the arch, but,
as usual, by the gradual approxima-
tion of the stones as the wall as-
cended."— Wakeman,
For more distant excursions the
traveller should visit Loop Head, 16
m. to the S.W., the road to which
runs about midway between the
Shannon and the Atlantic, leaving
to the 1. the village and bay of Car-
rigaholt, and passing through the
hamlets of Cross and Kilbaha.
From the lighthouse at Loop Head
is a magnificent view of the estuary
of the Shannon to the E.; Kerry
Head, Brandon Mount, and the hiUs
of Dingle Promontory to the S.,
backed up by the lofty summits of
M'Gillicuddy's Beeks; and to the N.
the m6untains of Connemara and the
12 Pins, with the islands of Aran
standing out to sea. It is probably
as fine and wild a panorama as can
be seen anywhere in the three king-
doms. The cliff scenery on this por-
tion of the coast is also very remark-
able. Immediately round the Head
is an isolated rock, known as Der-
mot and Grania's Bock ; and at Boss
(nearly 3 m. higher up) axe some of
802
Boute 32. — Limerick to Tratee.
Ireland.
the natural bridges which are such
wonderful features of this coast. The
following are the dimensions of the
arch : •* The span is 72 ft. ; height
from the water, 49 ft.; thickness of
the arch at the crown, composed of
rock, and covered with earth and
verdure, 19 ft. ; width of the sheet of
rock underneath the arch, 45 ft. ; and
width of the grassy walk on top, 30
ft. The other bridge is 45 ft. span ;
the thickness above the arch, 9 ft. ; and
the width, 30 ft."— -Mra. KnotL
The geological explanation of these
is very simple. All this line of
cllfis consists of carbonaceous slates,
which, being soft, are less able to re-
sist the force of the waves and at-
mospheric elements. In the case of
the bridges, some of the lower beds,
eaten away by the water, have Mien
in ; and the upper ones, dipping both
to sea and inland at low angles, have
formed the natural arch.
A little higher up, near the ruins
of Cloghan-sauvaun Castle, there is a
fine "blow," or "puffing-hole," and
cave.
The pedestrian who has time at his
disposal, and does not wish to travel
S., cannot do better than make an
excursion up the coast past Ballard
and Dunbeg to Miltown Malbay (Rte.
33) and the cMs of Mohir.]
Tarbert is 11 m. from Listowel,
and the road is about as dreary and
monotonous as any road can be. The
ground is very high, and there is
httle cultivation or wood to please the
eye until the river Geale is passed,
when a long descent opens out a
pretty view of the valley of the Peale,
to
6 m. Listowel (Hotel: Listowel
Arms), a small country town on the
banks of the Feale, which is a noble
salmon and trout stream, though
rather late in the season. There is
nothing to see save a couple of ivy-
covered towers of the old castle, which
was the last that held out against
Elizabeth in the Desmond insurrec-
tion.
Conveyances. — Car to Tarbert and
Tialee.
Distances. — Tarbert, 11m.; Tralee,
17 ; Abbeyfeale, 10 ; Ballybunion, 9.
Excursion.
Ballybunion.
[A road runs along the banks of
the Feale to the S.E. 4o Abbeyfeale,
in itself a small iminteresting town,
but situated in the heart of a very
wild district, at the foot of the Mul-
laghreirke Mountains.]
A more pleasant excursion can be
made from Listowel to the little
bathing-place of Ballybunion, 9 m.
distant, the road thereto crossing the
Galey, a tributary of the Feale. The
coast V at Ballybunion is femous for
its caves. ** The difife immediately
contiguous to the bay extend in nu-
merous intricate passages, through
which a boat may pass for a consider-
able distance piurallel with the coast,
without entering the open sea." The
largest, known as Neptune's Hall, or
the Pigeon Cave, is from 70 to 80 ft
in height. The visitor should ramble
up the coast to Doon, where are
some detached rocks and natural
arches. The coast was well defended
in days of yore, as in this short walk
the ruins of no less than 3 castles
are visible.
[Some 7 m. to the S., near the vil-
lage of Ballyduff, is the ch. and
round tower of Biattoo. The latter
is 92 ft. in height, and 48 ft. in cir-
cmnferenoe at its base, which is
placed on a terrace or platform, oon-
nected with a causeway, that extends
in a line opposite its doorway. This
is semicircu&r-hcaded, the arch being
formed by 3 stones, and ornamented
with a flat band. The interior of the
tower is divided into 6 stories, the
uppermost of which contains windows
&cing the cardinal points.]
Adjoining Listowel is BaUinad-
dery (J. Todd, Esq.). The road to
Tralee is carried over rather high
ground skirting the Stack and Clan-
ruddery Mountains, which, though of '
no great height, are wild and desolate
Ireland.
Houte S2,^-Trdlee — Dingle,
30S
in appearance. Save a pretty glen
through which the road runs, there
is not much of interest until within
3 or 4 m. of Tralee, where the view
of the Slieve Mish and Dingle Moun-
tains, with the sharp peaks of the
Eeeks rising over them to the 1., is
extremely fine, and quite repays a
dull drive.
21 m. Tralee {Inn : Blennerhasset
Arms, not good) is the largest seaport
not only in Kerry, but in the S.W. of
Ireland, and exhibits a considerable
degree of bustle and animation. The
port of Blennerville is about 1 m. dis-
tant, and is connected with the town
by a ship canal, as the Tralee river
is remarkably shallow. Tralee is an
ancient place, and has been identified
with the history and times of the
Desmond family ; indeed the grave of
the Desmond par excellence is to be
seen about 8 m. to the E. of the town,
and a little to the N. of the demesne
of Maglass, on the road to Castle
Island. Notwithstanding these asso-
ciations it possesses few or no anti-
quarian remains. Adjoining the town,
which contains the usual accompani-
ments of an assize town, are the
grounds of Sir Edward Denny, which
are liberally thrown open to iie inha-
bitants. (Pop. 10,309.)
The archsaologist should visit the
ancient ch. of Batass, which pos-
sesses a very characteristic square-
headed doorway of Cyclopean ma-
sonrv. The ch. is built of old red
sandstone, a singular &ct when we
observe that the neighbourhood con-
sists of limestone.
Conveyances. — Car to Limerick ;
also to Tarbert; rail to Killamey
and Dublin.
Distances. — Killamey, 22 m. ; Tar-
bert, 21 ; Castle Island, 11 ; Miltown,
12 ; Killorglin, 17 ; Castlemaine, 10 ;
Dingle, 27 ; Limerick, 56 ; Listowel,
17 ; Ardfert, 5.
JExcursiom,
1. Ardfert.
• 2. Dingle.
8. Kil^kmey*
4. Cahirconree.
5. Batass.
[Tralee and Castlemaine are the
northern and southern entrances re-
spectively into the Promontory of
Dingle, one of those extraordinary
prolongations of land which are so
common on the S. and S.W. coasts of
Ireland from Tralee to Dunmore
Head, and from Brandon to Ventry.
The whole of the promontory is
occupied by a backbone of moim-
tains, which attain very consider-
able heights, and slope precipitously
down to the seaboard. The best
way of seeing the promontory wiU
be by making the circuit, or as near
a circuit as the roads will permit*
The route skixts the S. shore of the
bay of Tralee, close at the foot
of Cahir Conree and Bautregaum,
which rise abruptly to the heights of
2713 and 2784 ft. A little tarn under
the rugged escarpments of the former
mountain gives birth to the Derry-
more stream, which is crossed at 5
m. 8 m. at the Finglas river, which
rises in Caherbla, 1926 ft., a direct
road is given off to Dingle, joining
the S. road at Anascaul. 13 m. at
Castle Gregory, a little triangular-
shaped town at the foot of Beenoskee,
2715 ft., a sandy promontory is thrown
out to the N. of 4 m. in length, that
divides the bays of Tralee and Bran-
don. The termination of this penin-
sula, however, is rugged and dan-
gerous, and is, moreover, guarded by
a series of rocky islands, known as
the Seven Hogs. Brandon Moimt,
with its magnificent clif&, is now the
principal object in the landscape,
rising to the great height of 3126
ft.; it also stretches out N. and S.,
so as almost entirely to fill up the
remaining portion of the promontory.
On the sea side particularly the
precipices are tremendous, and de-
scend wil^ such sudden escarpments
as to forbid the approach of any
road, which is therefore necessarily
deflective towards the S.W., cross-
ing over to Dingle by a fine
801
BotUe 32. — Limerick to Trcdee.
Ireland.
mountain-peas between Brandon and
Connor Mountains. As the road
emerges from the defile, the tourist
gains exquisite views of Dingle Bay
and the opposite mountains of Ive-
rogh. Both Brandon Mount and
Connor Hill are admirable localities
for the botanist, many beautiful ferns
and plants finding a habitation in
their savage clif&; amongst others
Trichomanes radicans, Poa alpina,
Oxyria reniformis, Sibthorpia Euro-
pSBa, Saussurea alpina, ^yrethrum
maritimum, Saxifraga afiSnis, S. csbs-
pitosa, S. argentea, and S. geum.]
27 m. Dingle {Inn : clean and com-
fortable) is one of the most westerly
towns in Ireland, and probably one of
the most wretched, but it is finely situ-
ated at the foot of Ballysitteragh, 2050
ft., and at the head of Dingle har-
bour, a snug, sheltered bay, on the W.
shore of which are the grounds and
mansion of Bumham, the seat of Lord
Ventry, a narrow neck of land, of
about 1 m. in breadth, separating
the harbour of Dingle from that of
Ventry, which is considerably larger,
though much more exposed to S.W.
gales. This neck of land is said by
tradition to have been the very last
piece of ground occupied by the
Danes in Ireland. The village is
situated at the N. of the harbour,
near the termination of a smooth
strand. At Fahan, a village a little to
the W. of Ventry, is the most remark-
able collection of Beehive ancient
houses in Ireland. The distance be-
tween Dingle and the opposite coast is
so small that a good deal of intercourse
is carried on between this district and
that of Iveragh, in which Cahircir
veen is situated (Hte. 35) ; and the
tourist who is bound for Valentia
and Waterville cannot do better than
sail across, always provided that the
weather is settled and the wind &ir.
To the W. of Ventry the promontory
is terminated by Eagle Mountain,
1695 fk., a fine abrupt hill, ending
seaward at Dunmore Head.
The most peculiar features of the
district are met with in the Blasket
Islands, that lie off the land, and
are frightfully ironbound. In the
Great Blasket the cliff of Slieve
Donagh, on the N. side, rises
steeply from the water to a
height of 967 ft. higher than the
cli^ of Mohir. Further out is Tear-
aght Island, a lofty rock of 600 ft., also
rising out of the water in a similar
manner to the Skellig (Rte. 35);
and to the N. of the Blasket is
Inishtooskert, where are to be seen
the ruins of St. Brendan's oratory.
The Dingle promontory has been
called the key to the geological
structure of the S. of Ireland. It con-
tains— 1, Upper Silurians; 2, Tile-
stones, with Pentamerus Knightii;
3,'Glengarriff grits; 4, Dingle beds,
which latter are really a subor-
dinate division of the Old Red,
consisting of red slates and sand-
stones with thick beds of conglome-
rate intermixed with pebbles of Sil.
limestone and fragments of jasper
and homstone. Above these are
red sandstones passing conformably
into yellow sandstone and carboni-
ferous shales. The geologist will
find good SiL fossils at Ferritor*8
Cove, and some fine sections between
Sibyl Head and the Sheve Miah
Moimtains, and again from Brandon
Head to Bull s Head.
Various legends are in existence
with respect to the former colonisa-
tion of the Dingle promontory ^the
Spanish; and 3 m. to the N.W. of
Ventry is Ferritor*s Cove, where, in
1579, Sanders, the Pope's Nundo,
and 80 Spaniards, landea and built a
fort, which was afterwards garrisoned
by a party of 700 men. They were,
however, attacked and massacred by
the Lord Deputy and Sir Walter
Raleigh. Several ancient encamp-
ments are to be seen at Smerwick,
which is on the W. coast of Smerwick
Harbour, a fine sheltered bay, bounded
on the W. by the headland of the
Three Sisters,. and on the E. by the
rising ground of Brandon Mountain.
Ireland.
Boute 32. — Dingle : Excursions,
305
In this neighbourhood is the finest
range of sea cliffs in Munster, the
chief elevations being Sihyl Head,
the Three Sisters, Bally David
Head, and Brandon Head, varying
in height from 700 to 1000 ft. " The
neighbourhood of Smerwick Harbour
abounds with the remains of stone
fortresses and circular stone houses,
together with ancient oratories ex-
hibiting only an imperfect develop-
ment 01 the Boman mode of construc-
tion, being built of uncemented
stones admirably fitted to each other,
and their lateral walls converging
from the base to the apex in curved
lines." — Petrie. The antiquary should
look out for the oratory of Gallerus, one
of the most singular of these early re-
mains. It measures 43 ft. in length,
by 10 ft. in breadth ; while its height
to the apex of the roof is 16 ft., the
roof being formed by the gradual
approximation of the side walls from
tne base upwards. It is entered
by a square-headed doorway in the
W. gable. In the graveyard is
an inscribed pillar-stone, with an
imperfect inscription in the By-
zantine character, of the 4th or 5th
cent.
At Kilmalkedar, 1 m. distant, is
another pillar-stone, in which the
inscription is perfect; and also a
very interesting little eh. of 11th or
12th cent.
At Temple GeaJ, 3 m. N.W. of
Dingle, are some remains of the
oratory of St. Monachan, together
with a pillar-stone inscribed with
Ogham characters.
The return from Dingle by the
S. road is finer than on the N.,
owiog partly to the greater abrupt-
ness of the hills and the magnificent
views of the opposite coast. In the
neighbourhood of the village of
Anascaul, on the river Owenascaul,
there are several forts. At Inch
the road enters the sandy flats of the
Castlemalne river, and keeps along
the N. side of Castlemaine harbour to
the town of Castlemaine (Rte, 35^.
The following excursions can be
recommended from Dingle : —
1. To the CUflfe at Sibyl Head,
which are very fine, and can easily
be visited by taking a car to Ferritor*s
Cove. Directions for a pedestrian :
Turn off to the rt. after passing the
mill at Milltown, and proceed by
Grallerus and across the sands at the
end of Smerwick Harbour. Beturn
by the regular road as far as the
ruined castle on the top of the hill
above Ventry; then turn to the 1.
and keep along an old road which
leads into the main road again half-
way between Ventry and Dingle.
The distance will be about 20 m.
2. To Brandon Head. — Take a car
to Coosavaddig (9 m.), from whence
it is a steep climb of 3 or 4 m. to the
top of the Head.
3. Brandon Mountain. — The ascent
can be made either from the W. or
BaUybrack side, or from the Cloghane
or E. side. The former is the easiest ;
but the finest view is obtained by
the latter route, passing through a
wild glen with precipices on every
side. It will be advisable to take a
guide for this route.
4. Take a car to Glenfahan (8 m.),
then walk round Slea Head to Dun-
quin, and from thence back to Dingle
by the regular road. There is a
splendid view from the top of the
lull between Dunquin and Ventry.
Distance from Glenfahan about 12m.
5. The Coumanare Lakes. — As-
cend Connor Hill (4 m.) and strike
off to the rt., keeping in a N.E.
direction for about 1 m., when the
lakes become visible. It may be
mentioned that a number of arrow-
heads have been found on Connor
HUl. Tradition speaks of a great
battle.
6. To the Blasquets by sea. — The
boatmen are exorbitant in their
charges.
7. The Cliffs of Esk, on the oppo-
site side of Dingle Harbour — C. T,
[Another excursion may be made
306
Bovie 33. — lAmerick to Boyle.
Ireland.
to Ardfert, 5 ddu, the seat of W,
Croebie, Esq. Here are some of the
finest remains in the co. of Kerry.
The see of Ardfert is united witii
that of Limerick. The cathedral
consists of a nave and choir of E. E.
date. The nave contains 4 dr-
coiar-headed arches, together with
3 arches supported by square pillars
leading into a chapel. The choir
U lighted by a beautiful 3-light win-
dow of great height, and also, on
the S. side, by a series of 9 trefoil-
headed windows. On either side
the altar are niches, one of them con-
taining an effigy, supposed to be
that of St. Brandon, the patron saint.
To the N.W. of the ch. is the bury-
ing-pla^e of the Countess of Kerry,
and now of the Orosbie family. A
round tower, 120 ft. in height, for-
merly adjoined the W. front, but it
fell in 1771. A portion of the
cathedral has been incorporated with
the parochial church. Close to the ca-
thedral are the ruins of an interest-
ing chapel of 12Ui cent. Very little
remains of Ardfert Castle, which was
finally destroyed in 1641 during
the wars of that period. Ardfert
Abbey is the seat of the Crosbie
family, who have been settled here
since the regn of Elizabeth. With-
in the grounds are the ruins of
the Franciscan Abbey, founded in
the 13th cent by Thomas, Lord of
Kerry. They consist of a nave and
ciioir, with a tower on the W., a
chapel on the S., and the refectory
and cloisters on the N. The choir
is lighted by 9 windows on the S.,
and also by a 5-light E. window
of beautiful design. It contains
5 monumental recesses underneath
the windows. The S. chapel is sepa-
rated from the nave by 3 pointed
arches with round piers : on one is
an inscription to the effect that
Donald Fitz Bohen completed the
cliapel in 1453. The window of the
chapel is particularly good. Some few
miles to the N.W. of Ardfert is Bally-
iieigue* the seat of 3Iajor Crosbie.]
ROUTE 33.
FBOM LIMERICK TO BOYLE, THBOUGR
ENNIS AND TUAM.
Limerick, ano. Luimneach (Hotel:
Cruse's, good), combines the as-
sociations of one of Ireland's his-
torical cities with the improvements
of modem towns, and may be said to
be almost the neatest and best built
of any place in the kingdom. (Pop.
44,408.) Like most of the Irish sea-
ports it was originally inhabited in
great force by the Danes, who were
expelled by Brian Boroimhe when he
assumed the sovereignty over Mun-
ster and Thomond, Limerick thus
becoming the royal city of the Mun-
ster kings. After passing through the
usual steges of intestinal native war,
its next important epoch was marked
by the erection of a strong fortress by
King John, who committed the care
of it to the charge of William de
Burgh ; and from that time, with a
few intervals of check, it steadily
gained in importance until the reign
of Elizabeth, when it was made me
"centre of civil and mihtary ad-
ministration.'* But the great episode
in the history of Limerick took place
during the wars of William and
James, when the events occurred
which fastened on it the name of
the "City of the Violated Treaty.**
After the fall of Athlone and Gal-
way,Tyrconnel, the Lord Lieutenant,
stiU held Limerick as the last strong-
hold that King James possessed,
the city having been previously
unsuccessfully assaulted by the Eng-
lish m 1690. A fit of apoplexy
carried off Tyrconnel, when the
government, both civil and mili-
tary, fell into the hands of D'Usson
ana Sarsfield. Ginkell, the English
commander, endeavoured to take the
town by an attack on the fort which
overlooked and protected the Tho-
Ireland.
Boute 33. — lAmerick.
307
mond Bridge. " In a short time the
fort was stormed. The soldiers who
had garrisoned it fled in confusion
to the city. The Town Major, a
French officer, who commanded at
the Thomond Gate, afraid tbat the
pursuers would enter with the fugi-
tives, ordered that part of the bridge
which was nearest to the city to be
drawn up. Many of the Irirfi went
headlong into the stream and perished
there. Others cried for quarter, and
held up their handkerchiefs in token
of submission. But the conquerors
were mad with rage, their cruelty
oould not be immediately restrained,
and no prisoners were made till the
heaps of corpses rose above the
Earapet. The garrison of the fort
ad consisted of about 800 men.
Of these onhr 12D escaped into li-
merick."— macatday.
The result of this capture was the
fall of James's power in Limerick,
and indeed in Ireland, and the sign-
ing of the famous treaty on the stone
near the bridge on 3rd Oct. 1691,
the 9th article of which provided
that the Roman Catholics should
enjoy the same privileges of their
religion as tbey enjoyed in the reign
of Charles II., and that William and
Mary would endeavour to ensure
them immunity from disturbance
on account of their religion. This
article, however, was never carried
into effect. The city has ever since
been a station for a large quantity of
troops, and is at the present day one
of the most bustling and pleasant
garrison towns.
It is situated in a broad plain,
watered by the Shannon, and backed
up in the distance by the hills of Clare
and Killaloe. The river, which soon
becomes an estuary, rolls in a mag-
niflcent and broad stream through
the heart of the town, and sends
off a considerable branch called the
Abbey River.
The junction of this with the main
channel encloses what is known as
the King's Island, on the southern
portion of which is built the English
Town, united to the mainland by 3
bridges, and containing the most
ancient buildings. In contradis-
tinction is the Irish Town, which
lies to the S. of it, and more in the
direction of the rly. station. These 2
districts comprised the fortified old
town. Up to Edward II.'s time only
the English Town had been defended
by walls, but these wef e subsequently
extended so as to include Irish Town,
which was entered by St. John's Gate.
Newton Pery, the district between
this and the river, was then bare,
but, having come into the pos-
session of &e Pery family, it was
speedily built upon, and is now
equal to any city in Ireland for the
breadth and cleanliness of its streets.
Of these the principal is George
Street, a handsome tlioroughfare of
nearly a mile in length, giving off
others on each side at right angles,
and adorned with a statue of O Cou-
nell at the end of it. There is also
to the N. a monument to the memory
of Lord Monteagle.
The Shannon is crossed by 3
bridges, of which the Thomond
Bridge, rebuilt in 1839, claims
priority from its ancient associations.
It connects English Town with the
Co. Clare, the entrance from which,
tlirough Thomond Gate, was pro-
tected by the fort mentioned above,
and King Johns Castle. On the N.,
or Clare side, the stone is still to
be seen on which was signed the
treaty of 1691. Wellesley Bridge
connects Newtown Pery with the
road from Limerick to Ennis. It is
a fine modem bridge of 5 elliptic
arches, with an open balustrade, and
having a swivel on the city side, so
that the Shannon navigation might
not be interfered with. Athlunkard
Bridge, also consisting of 5 arches,
can scarcely be said to be in the
city : it connects the N.E. suburbs
with the Killaloe road. Besides
these 3, there are some minor
bridges crossing the Abbey stream.
808
Boute 33. — Limerick to Boyle,
Ireland.
New Bridge continues the main
street into English Town : and Baels
(pronounced Bawls) Bridge, connects
English and Irish Towns, at the
spot where the Lock Mills Canal,
cutting off a long reach of the Shan-
non, falls in. This bridge replaced
in 1831 an older one called the Tide
Bridge in maps of the time of Eliza-
beth, and which was washed away
by an unusually high tide in 1775,
together with several houses that
projected over the water. The origin
of the name is supposed by some to
be " Bald" Bridge, being so called
in Latin documents (pons calvus)
because it had no battlements ; others
think it was Boyle's Bridge, as form-
ing part of the grant made to Boyle,
Eaji of Shannon.
The 2 principal objects of inte-
rest are the castle and cathedral,
both close together in the English
Town. The Jformer still retains the
massive gateway and strong drum
towers which characterised the
fortresses of the early English
settlers ; but its venerable appearance
is marred by the addition of the mo-
dem roofs and buildings of the
barracks into which the interior has
been converted.
The cathedral is still under pro-
cess of restoration, but fortunately,
is under judicious hands, and is not
modernised like the castle. Although
said to have been originally buUt by
Donald O'Brien, King of Limerick,
in the 12th cent., it has been so often
added to and altered, that little, if
any, of the old edifice is in existence.
The plan of the ch. is not cruci-
form but 3-aisled, with a fine tower
rising directly from the W. end. A
battlement runs along the aisles ex-
ternally, and the angles of the tower
are fimshed off with Irish stepped
turrets. Internally the arrangement
is singular. The aisles are sub-
divided both lengthways and cross-
ways, so as to form a series of
chapels. Immediately on the rt. of
the entrance porch is one containing
the tombs of the Earls of Limerick,
and adorned with some good stained
glass and an illuminated ceiling. A
chapel in the N. aisle contains the
organ,'*' and an early mural inscrip-
tion under some trefoil-headed arches.
In the chancel, which is lighted by
an E. E. window with stained glass, is
an elaborate marble monument of
different colours to the Earl of TLo-
mond, which we are told in the epitaph
suffered great defacement in the
rebellion, and was subsequently re-
stored by the Earl of Limerick. On
S. side of the altar is an ambry
lighted by a circular painted window.
The nave is divided from the side
aisles by 3 plain Early Pointed arches,
and there is a triforium with plain
round-headed arches. The tower
^ould be ascended for the sake of
the view, which is very charm-
ing, embracing a wide expanse of
the Shannon, and the plain through
which it flows, the hills in the neigh-
bourhood of Castle Clare, Mount
Keeper and the Killaloe hills ; while
the loreground is occupied with the
antique-looking English Town, the
modem city, and the busy harbour.
A pretty story is told about the bells,
viz. that they were made by an
Italian, and of such exceeding sweet-
ness that he was very proud of them,
and sold them to a convent. In
course of time troubles came upon the
religious house, so that it was broken
up, and the bells carried off to distant
lands. The Italian, whose fortunes
shared in the general wreck, was
driven from his home, and became a
wanderer. Chance brought him to
the Shannon and to Limerick, when
the first sound that greeted him as
he sailed up the river was from his
own bells, the pride and joy of his
heart. Such pleasure was too great
for the heartbroken exile, who was
found by the boatmen desul ere they
got to the landing-place. The visitor
should not omit to ramble through
* The service on Sunday is cbonJ, and re-
markably well done.
Ireland.
B>(mte 33. — lAmenck,
309
the foreign-looking streets of English
Town, although it must be confessed
that the inhabitants thereof are
neither so attractive nor orderly as in
the other districts. The other objects
of interest in Limerick are of a civil
and mihtary character: the latter
embracing 4 large barracks; the
former, the Exchange, County Court-
house, a Merchants' Quay, gaol,
and the infirmary foimded by the
Barrington family in 1829. The
tourist should visit the new B. C,
Cathedraly and the oh. of the Re-
demptorists, designed by P. C. Hard-
wick. From its noble situation on
the Shannon, Limerick has long
commanded a prosperous trade, and
should, from its proximity to the At-
lantic and consequently to America,
have been one of the principal Ameri-
can ports. Cork and Galway, how-
ever, are keen competitors for the
latter honour. "The harbour ex-
tends about 1600 yards in length
and 150 in breadth, with from 2 to
9 ft. at low water, and 19 at spring
tides ; which latter enables vessels of
600 tons to moor at the quays. The
quayage and wharfage extend 1600
yards, and cost 18,000Z. The com-
merce of the port has considerably
increased, and will be greatly bene-
fited by the floating docks, con-
structed at an expense of 54,000Z. ;
in 1826 there was scarcely a vessel
belonging to it, there are now 105
of 13,000 tons. In 1835 the exports
were 726,0002., in 1842 upwards of
1,200 fiOOl '^Thorns,
The linen trade has been of late
years established here by an enter-
prising firm, Messrs. Russell, whose
factory is on the Clare side of Wel-
lesley Bridge. The other excel-
lencies of Limerick are — fishhooks of
beautiful finish and temper ; gloves,
the leather of which is so fine that a
pair wiU pass through a wedding-
ring, or may be packed up in a
walnut-shell ; * and lace, for which
* Cork Is the real seat of the manufacture
of the so-called Limerick gloves.
indeed the town has been as famous
as Honiton or Valenciennes. The
principal establishment is that ot
Messrs. Forrest at the comer ot
Glentworth Street, where several
hundred females are constantly em-
ployed. The lace factories are not
open to public inspection, and the
visitor will regret it the less as no
machinery whatever is employed,
all the work being done by hand
on frames or patterns. Some of the
varieties, especially that known as
Guipure, are extremely beautiful, and
often fetch very high prices. Last,
but not least. Limerick is famous for
the beauty of its women, a reputa-
tion not undeserved, as may be seen
even by a casual stroll through the
city.
Conveyances. — Rail to Ennis ; to
Watei-ford; to Cork direct, also by
Limerick Junction; to Killaloe; to
Fo3mes. Steamer to Liverpool
weekly. Car daily to Bniff: to
Ennis; to Killaloe; to Kilmallock;
to Scariff; to Tipperary; to Tulla;
to Tralee.
Distances. — Castle Council, 10 m. ;
Killaloe, 17 ; Bunratty, 12 ; Ennis, 25 ;
Clare Castle, 23; Ada re, 11 ; Aakea-
ton, 21 ; Rathkeale, 17 ; Foynes, 26 ;
Kilrush, 43 ; Tipperary, 25 ; Charle-
ville, 26 ; Mungret Abbey, 3.
Excursions. —
1. Killaloe and Castle Connell.
2. Bunratty.
3. Carrig-a-gunneU.
4. Tarbert.
5. Adare.
Quitting the terminus, which serves
for all the 5 rlys. that leave Limerick,
the line to Ennis soon branches oft*
to the 1., and passing over the canal
winds completely round one half the
town, crossing the Shannon by a long
low bridge just above the spot where
the Abbey River is given off. A
little to the rt. is St. Thomas's Island
and Quinsboro' House. The line
thence runs N.W., and gradually
approaches the ranges in the neigh-
bourhood of Six Mile Bridge, and
810
Boute 38. — Limenck to Boyle.
Irela^.
keeping the noble estuary of the
Shiuinon well in view on the 1.
Near CraUoe Stat^ on rt., is
Gratloe Wood, and nearer to the
river the remains of three castles
or fortified mansions, viz. Cratloe,
Gratloe-keel, and Castle Donnell.
2 m. 1. from the station, at
the mouth of the Bunratty Biver,
is the fine old fortress of Bun-
ratty, once the residence of the Earls
of Thomond, and now a police
barrack. Thackeray in his 'Irish
Sketcli-book ' spins an irresistible
8 volume novel (in 2 pages) respect-
ing this fortress, commencing with
the description — ** It is a huge square
tower, with 4 smaller ones at each
angle ; you mount to the entrance
by a steep flight of steps, being com-
manded all the way by the crossbows
of 2 of the Lord De Clare's retainers,
the points of whose weapons may be
seen lying upon the ledge of the
little narrow meurtri^e on each side
of the gate. A venerable seneschal,
with the keys of the office, presently
opens the little back postern, and
you are admitted to the great hall, a
noble chamber, pardi I some 70 ft in
length and 30 high. 'Tis hung
round with 1000 trophies of war
and chase," &c. A modem house
has been built in the demesne by T.
Studdert, Esq. The anchorage at
the mouth of the Bunratty is so
safe that American vessels for Li-
merick always discharged their cargo
here.
13 m. Six MUe Bridge Stat, and
Newmarket Fergus, the town being
about 1 m. 1. of the stat. To the N. of
it is Dromoland Castle^ the very hand-
some seat and extensive domain of
Lord Inchiquin, and between it and
the rly. are some large earthworks.
At 20 m. ArdsoUus, the line crosses
the river of the same name, which
on rt. flows past the little town of
Quin (anc. Cuiuche), celebrated
for possessing one of the best pre-
served abbeys in Ireland. It is
of Dec. date, having been built
at the conunencement of the 15th
cent, by one MacCann Dall Mac-
namara. Lord of Glencoillan. It
consists of a nave and chancel, sur-
mounted by a graceful tower rising
at the junction of the two, and built
upon the gable ends. There is also a
chapel to the S. of the choir, con-
taining the sculptured figure of a
saint. * In the choir is the hieh
altar, and the monument of me
family of Macnamara of Banee, also
a representation of the Crucifixion in
stucco. Amongst those buried here
is Macnamara, the duellist (who
obtained the soubriquet of "Fire-
ball), together with' another gentle-
man, who fell in a quarrel wi& him.
Two lovers also, who were drowned
in the adjoining river, were interred
here in the same grave ; &om which,
as in the Border ballads, a brier
and an elder-tree have grown inter-
twined. The visitor will notice liie
signs of the dead person's calling
on many of the tombstones. " The
cloister is of the usual form, with
couplets of pillars, but is particular
in having buttresses round it by
way of ornament. There are apart-
ments on 3 sides of it, the re-
fectory, dormitory, and another room
to the N. of the chancel, with a
vaulted room imder tliem alL"
An unusual number of ruined
castles lie within a reasonable distance
of Quin: such as Ballymarkabao,
Corbally, and Dangan, liie latter a
quadrangular tower, flanked by round
towers at the angles, said to be the
oldest fortress in Munster. There
are also some pleasant seats in tihe
neighbourhood, viz., Moyriesk (J. F.
Vesey Fitzgerald, Esq.); Knappogue,
"Kiss on the Hill," the restored
residence of Lord Dunboyne; CuUaue,
which originally belonged to Steele,
the friend of O'Connell; Dangan
House, and Lough O'Connell, on
the banks of a considerable sheet of
water which rejoices in the name of
Callannyhuda.
5 m. &om Quin, and about 2 from
Ireland^
BotUe 33. — Ennis — Clare Abbey.
8U
Tulla, is the ** Toomeens/' an ex-
ceedingly curious bit of river
scenery, in which the stieam, flow-
ing through' the estates of Kiltaman
(J. Molony. Esq.), and that of T.
O'Callaghan, Esq., of Maryfort,
passes through a series of limestone
arches, with occasional apertures
like very steep railway cuttings.
23 m. Clare CasUe. Here we h%ve
the Fergus, a broad river that flows
into the Shannon, and is navigable
as far as Clare, from which a very
large amount of grain is shipped in
the course of the year. On an
island in the bed of the river is the
ruin of the castle, connected by a
bridge with either side of the bank.
Although Glare possesses such mani-
fest advantages, yet it has been passed
in the race for precedence by
Ennis {Hotels: Carmody's ; Bren-
nan's), a queer little town, with nar-
row ^eets, or rather lanes, filled with
a bustling, foreign-looking people.
(Pop. 7175.) Its modem attractions
are a very good classic Gourthouise,
bmlt of grey marble, and a column
erected to the memory of Daniel
O'ConneU, the Great Liberator. In
the interior of the Court-house is a
statue to the memory of Sir Michael
O'Loughlin, one of the county mag-
nates. The antiquities are more inte-
resting. Ennis, under the name of
Iniscluan ruadha, was &mous for its
seat of learning and its Franciscan
monastery, founded by the family of
O'Brien, who were princes of Tho-
mond. The latter is now incorporated
with the ch., and presents a curious
mixture of modem building with ivy-
covered gables. A fine 5-liglit Early
Pointed window still exists at the
B. end, and in the interior of tlie
ch. is the Abbot's chair, "which,
with the altar, is highly sculptured
with figures in relief."
About 1 m. from Ennis, close to
the rly., is
Clare Ahhey, founded for Augus-
tinians at the end of the 12th cent.,
by Donald O Brien, King of Li-
t
merick. It is like all the others, a
very graceful cruciform, ch., with a
lofty tower, that from the nature of
its situation is visible from a great
distance.
[3 m. to S. of the town is a
third ruined abbey, that of Killone,
which has the attraction of an ex-
tremely pretty situation on the banks
of Killone Lough. This was founded
at the same time as Clare by a
daughter of O'Brien, who *' excelled
all die women in Munster for piety,
almsdeeds, and hospitality." On the
road to it from Ennis is Cahirculla
House, Beech-park (Marcus Keane,
Esq.), Edenvale (R. Stacpoole, Esq.),
a very romantic spot, and Newhall
(Major Armstrong-Macdonnell).]
]>istances. — limerick, 25 m. ;
Castle Clare, 2; Gort, 19; Lough
Cooter, 15; Miltown Malbay, 20;
Kilfeuora, 17 ; Dysert, 2.
Conveyances. — Rail to Limerick.
Car to Gtirt and Galway; car to
Miltown Malbay.
Excursions. —
1. Miltown Malbay.
2. Kilfenora.
3. Dysert and Corrofin.
[Ennis is the best starting-point
for MiUown Malbay, 20 m., a little
village on the coast, which has of
late years become a fashionable
watering-place, ' especially for the
Gralway and Limerick residents.
The Atlantic is a tolerable hotel.
The village itself is poor and wretehed,
but the scenery of the cliffs of Clare
will make amends for many short-
comings in the way of accommoda-
tion. About half way from Ennis the
road approaches the ranges of the
Clare Mountains, which, although not
in reality very lofty, are a fine relief
to the otherwise monotonous land-
scape. Slieve Callane rises to the
height of 1282 ft., and presents the
appearance of a flat-topped hill with
terraced sides. This hill, together
with the whole of this district, oon-
siste geologically of the upper lime-
stone measures, ** while the coal-mea*
812
Houte 33. — lAmerich to Boyle.
iRELAim.
Bures, consisting of softer bnt tougher
materials, form higher land, which
ends in a continuous and rather steep
escarpment. On examining the posi-
tion of the rocks near these escarp-
ments, it is at once evident that the
limestone rises up to the surBetce from
beneath the coal-measures, and that
the beds of the latter end abruptly at
the escarpment. It is clear that this
abrupt termination of so great a
thickness of beds can only be due to
the &ct that the former continuation
of these beds has been cut off and
removed by the action of denuda-
tion."
On the S.E. side of Slieve Gallane
is a cromlech, "consisting of 3 im-
mense stones ; 2 of them pitched on
end, and the 3rd laid incumbent on
these. The latter measures 12 ft. in
length by 4 in breadth; the others
are each 10 ft. in length, 8 broad, and
1 thick ; 2 'more lie extended on the
ground, closing when erect, the ex-
tremities of file crypt, which the
whole structure formed when com-
plete."— Windele. This cromlech is
celebrated for containing an Ogham
inscription, first discovered in 1784.
About 2 m. 1. of the road at Hand-
cross is Lough Doo, a solitary sheet
of water surrounded by hills. The
principal attraction at Miltown Mal-
bay is the scenery of the coast, which
is very fine, although, as the name of
Malbay implies, it has proved very
dangerous to shipping. The geologist
should ramble along the rocks to the
S. A little below Kilmuny the river
Annageragh fiows into the sea through
the lagoon of Lough Donnell, which
is defended fix)m the tide by a bed of
shingle 29 ft. high. To the N. of
Spanish Point, near the old ruin of
Freagh Castle, is a very remarkable
Blowing or Puffing Hole.
7 m. to the N. of Miltown Malbay
is Lehinch, from whence a road di-
verges inland for 2 m. to
Ennistymon, a prettily - situated
little town on the Inagh river,
which, below the bridge, &fis over a
ledge of rocks in a cascade. On the
N. bank is Enmstymon House, the
residence of Col. Macnamara. Con-
tinuing over an expanse of sandy
dunes, and crossing the Inagh near
the ruined tower of Dough, the
tourist arrives at loscannor, at the
head of liscannor Bay, where there
is another square tower, formerly the
residence of the O'Connors.
Soon after passing 11 m. rt Birch-
field (G. O'Brien, Esq^ the road
reaches the promontory of Hag*s Head,
the conunenoement of the &mous CUffs
of Moher, which run for 5 m. with a
sheer precipice wall of 600 ft. Al-
though not nearly as high as the
cliffs of Croghan in Achill, or Slieve
League in Donegal, which is neeu'ly
2000 ft., the cliflfe of Moher form some
of the most sublime objects of the west-
em coast, and when seen in rough
weather, with the huge waves of the
Atlantic dashing in showers of spray
over them, are a sight never to hs
forgotten. The view is magnificently
extensive, embracing the whole <k
the coast from the Loop Head in the
S., to Black Head in the Bay of
Galwav, while the 3 Aran Islands
are conspicuous in the N.W. A
very good road runs the whole
length of the cli£&, in addition to
which Mr. O'Brien of Birchfield has
erected a tavern and hotel for the ac-
commodation of the tourist. At Doo-
lin, should the visitor not elect to
follow the road up to Black Head, he
may return to Ennis through
KUfenora (anc. Cill-fronnabrach),
which was formerly a place of im-
portance, and is even now the seat
of a bishopric united to that of Kil-
laloe. In the ch., which has a
massive square tower, is a monu-
mental effigy, supposed to be that of
the founder, St. Fachnan. Kilfenora
was celebrated for the number of its
crosses, of which 2 only now remain.
5 m. from Kilfenora the traveller
approaches the Fergus, a little before it
falls into the Inchiquin Lough. At
this spot are various remains (4 Anti-
Ireland.
Boute 33. — Oort — Kilmacduagh.
313
quity : the stump of a round tower
aix)ut 10 ft. high ; the tower of the old
castle, which is said to have once
been the residence of the Deans of
Kilfenora; the ruins of a ch. and
stone cross fixed on a rock by the
road-side, " consisting of a shaft with
two arms curving upwards, on ecwjh
of which near 5ie top is a head
carved in relief, and in the centre 2
hands clasped; this was erected in
memory of the reconciliation of 2
persons who had been long in violent
enmity."
The old castle of Inchiqmn, for-
merly the residence of the O'Quins,
of whom the present Earl of Dun-
raven is the representative, and which
gives a title to the fiimily of O'Brien,
is on the northern ^ore of Lough
Inchiquin, an extremely pretty little
lake niEmked on the W. by a range of
wooded hills. On the same side are
Adelphi (W. Fitzgerald, Esq.) and
Clifden House (E. Burton, Esq.).
8 m, Corrofiuy a small decayed
market town on the Fergus, midway
between the Lakes of Inchiquin and
Atedaun. About 1 m. to the N.E.,
on the road to (rort, is the sqimre
fortress of BaUyportry, in better pre-
servation than most of the Clare
castles. Near Toonagh House are
the ruins of Ballygriffy Castle, and
to the S. is Dysert, the old ch. of
which should be visited on account of
a very beautiful Norman doorway.
There is also a roimd tower about
30 ft. high, with a door 20 ft. from
the ground The ruined castle was
formerly the residence of the CDeaa.
17 m. Ennis.]
The road from Ennis to Gort is
very dreary, passing through a wide
op^ Um^rcoi^try, inLspersed
with low craggy hills and sandy
loughs. A rly. has just been com-
menced to connect Ennis with
Athenry, and thus bring it nearer to
Dublin.
31 m. rt. InchcTonan Lough, and on
1. Ballyline House (Augustine Butler,
Esq.). Dromore is another rather
llrdandJ]
large lough to the 1., prettily wooded
on the N. by the demesne of Dromore
(T. Crowe, Esq.).
33 m. Crusheen. "
There is a pretty bit of Englisli
scenery at 37 m., where the road
passes the estates of Bunnahow (W.
Butler, Esq.) and Cregg (A. Har-
nett, Esq.), affording, with its wood
and pleasantly shaded trout-stream,
an agreeable variation from the mono-
tonous expanse all around.
39^ m. is the gateway of Lough
Cooter Castle (Hon. G. S. Gough),
through the groimds of which the
coach is frequently driven, by the
permission of its owner. It is a pretty
modem castellated house, most charm-
ingly situated on the W. shore of
Lough Cooter, the largest lake in the
S. of Galway. The views between
the wooded islands, most of which
are tenanted by a ruined ch. or castle^
are lovely. The river between the
lake and Gort has a portion of its
course underground.
43 m. Gort (Inn : Royal Mail), a
neat, clean-looking little tovm, of one
square, or rather triangle, with 3 or 4t
streets leading out of it. There is
nothing to see in it, and the traveller
will be disposed to agree with the
author of the * Irish Sketch-book,'
who remarks " that it seemed to bore
itself considerably, had nothing to do,
and no society." But in the days
when the cavalry banttcks were te-
nanted, Gort was considerably livelier
than it is now.
[The antiquary should visit Kil-
macduagh, 3 m. from Gort to the
S. W. Here St. Colman, son of Duach,
founded a see, over which he himself
presided, in the 7th cent. In 1602,
however, it was held together with
that of Clonfert, and eventually
became merged into Killaloe. The
ch. was built for St. -Colman by his
kinsman Guaine Aidhne, King of
Connaught, and is remarkable for a
Cyclopean doorway (now closed up),
"6ft. 6 in. in height, and in width
2 ft. 2 in. at the top, and 3 ft. 2 in. at
314
Itoute 33. — Limerick to Boyle.
Ireland.
the bottom. The lintel-sUme, which
extends the entire thickness of the
waJl, is 5 ft. 8 in. long, 1 ft. 9 in. high,
and 3 ft. wide."
This doorway was closed np with
rubble masonry in the 14th or 15th
cent., when the ch. was rebuilt and
considerably enlarged, and a new
doorway in the Pointed style placed,
as was usual in that age, in the S.
wall.
The round tower, which is remark-
able for leaning out of the perpen-
dicular some 17 ft., is considered to
be of the same age as the ch., viz. the
commencement of the 7th cent., and
is stated by the traditions of the
country to have been the work of
Gobhan Saer, the architect of Antrim
and Glendalough towers.
The doorway is 26 ft. from the
ground, and is semicircular-headed,
the arch being formed by cuttings in
the horizontal stones,]
The drive fromGort to Oranmore
is across such a bleak and desolate
country that the traveller will invo-
luntarily long for the railway and its
happy powers of shortening imin-
teresting distances. The whole of
the district is of the shallow-soiled
limestone rock for which Galway is
so fiajnous ; stones eveirwhere, in the
walls, the roads, the hiUs, the plains,
and the fields; all one unmitigated
sheet of grey monotony, only relieved
by the distant hills of Clare. At
45 m. 1. the scenery is a little im-
proved by the demesnes of Coole (Wi
Gregory, Esq.) and Kabeen (S. Lop-
dell, Esq.).
50 m. Ardrahan, some 8 m. to the
W. of which, between Kinvarra and
Black Head, are the ruins of the
Cistercian Abbey of Oorcomroe, which
contain interesting details of the
beginning of the 13th cent. The
tourist should notice the ornamenta-
tion and human heads sculptured on
the capitals of the arches, similar to
those found at St. Saviour's Ch.,
Glendalouo:h.
54 J m. Kilcolgan, to the L of which
is Tyrone House, the beautiful seat
of Christopher St. Greorge, Esq., the
owner of immense property in Galway
and Mayo. On the N-. the grounds
run along the shore of Kilcolgan
Biver, a small arm of the Atlantic,
which on this part of the coast pushes
in an immense number of little creeks
and bays.
A little further on is Clarin Bridge,
to rt. of which is Kilcoman (Sir T.
Kedington).
At 59 m. Oranmore (Rte. 14), an
arm of Galway Bay breaks prettily into
the scene. On 1. is the old castle of
Oranmore, a massive square tower by
the water's edge. This fortress was
in 1641 placed by the Earl of Clan-
ricarde under the command of Capt.
WiUoughby, who surrendered it to
the Catholic forces.
The traveller northward will here
leave the coach which goes to Gal-
way, and betake himself not unwill-
ingly to the Midland Great Western
Rly., which passes through equally
dreary scenery to
Aihenryt Ath-na-Riogh (Rte. 14)
{Hold : Railway), from whence a
branch line is given off to Tuam.
The rly. passes rt. and 1. the de-
mesnes of Castle Ellen (W. P. Lam-
bert, Esq.),^ Belleville (Major Mahon),
and Bingarra House (A. Clarke,
Esq.).
On rt. is Monivea, a small town,
almost entirely surrounded by the
grounds of Monivea Castle, the resi-
dence of Robert French, Esq.
9 m. BaUyglunin Stat., adjoining
Ballyglunin House (M. Blake, Esq.),
through the grounds of which flows
a small stream, called the Abbert
river.
[2 m. to the rt. are the remains
of Abbey Knodmwy (anc. Croc-
Muaidhe), so celebrated for its fres-
ooes. In 1189 Cathol O'Connoi,
sumamed Crorre-Dearg, or the Red
Hand, King of Connaught, obtaineil
a victory over the English forces
under Almeric St". Lawrence, and to
commemorate it founded the abbey of
Ireland.
BotUe 33. — Mount Bellew — Tuam,
815
Cnoc Muaidhe, or the Hill of Slaugh-
ter. The nave is short and plain,
but the chief interest is in the choir,
where are the tomb of the founder
and the frescoes. " Over the tomb of
Cathol is represented the taking down
of our Saviour from tlie cross. Nearer
to the altar, and on a large compart-
ment of the wall, are 2 designs. The
upper represents 6 figures clothed in
rich and flowing robes ; the one in the
middle is said to be Boderic O'Connor,
monarch of Ireland; on either side-
the princes, his vassals ; one holds a
hawk on his thumb, the other a
Bword. Below this is a man sitting
with what appears to be a roll of
paper in his hand. To his right is a
young man fixed to a tree, and trans-
fixed with arrows, and 2 archers are
in the act of shooting more at him.
It is said that the youth represents
Mac Murrough, son of the King of
Leinster, ^ho betrayed Ireland to the
English, and that ifioderick O Connor
condemned the youth to this fate in
revenge for his father's treason." —
Otway. The oostmnes of the kings
belong to the 12th cent^ and these
frescoes are considered, by competent
antiquarians, to have been the work
of the 14th cent. These singular
paintings are fast disappearing, and
it is only owing to the stone vaulting
of the roof that they have been pre-
served so long.]
[To the rt. of rly., on either bank
of the Abbert river, are Moyne f M.
Browne, Esq.) and Abbert (J. Blake-
ney, Esq.),
Near Newtown Bedew, 10 m. rt., is
a small lake. Lough Lasarae, or the
illuminated lake, the waters of which
are said to be illiuninated by phos-
phoric light, once every 70 years. It
is therefore in high reputation with
the peasants, as those who wash in
it have no chance of dying for that
year.
13 m. Mount BeUew, a rather pretty
little town near the banks of the
Bhiven, which ere long £eJ1s into the
Suck. Moimt Bellew is the residence
of the fieunily of Bellew.
From hence the traveller may pro-
ceed to Boscommon, through Moimt
Talbot and Athleague.]
After leaving Ballyglunin Stat.,
the round hill of Knocknaa becomes
visible on the W., and soon after-
wards the towers and buildings of
15 J m. Tuam {Hold: Daly's, very
bad), a place of considerable an-
tiquity, was originallv a religious
establishment, founded in the 6th
cent, by St. Jarlath, and from that
time to this has ever maintained a high
station in the ecclesiastical polity of
Ireland. At one time it was the seat
of a Protestant archbishop, but of
late ye€U*s it has been altered to a
bishopric, the see comprising with
Tuam the diocese of Achonry. It
is also the head-qucuters of the
R. jO. Archbishop, Dr. McHale, with
whose edicts 8J1 readers of Irisli
politics are familiar. The town
itself is smaU and not particu-
larly interesting, with the excep-
tion of one or two objects of anti-
quity which no tourist should omit.
They are the cathedral and the
cross. The former, which is also the
parish ch„ is a small, imimpressive
building, though a leirge amount of
defect is covereid by the W. door, as
magnificent a specimen of ancient
Norman work as any building in
Great Britain can boast. It is built
of red sandstone, altogether foreign to
that district. The date of this door-
way, which formed part of the chancel
of the old ch„ is somewhere between
1128, when O'Hoisin became abbot,
and 1150, when he was made arch-
bishop. Of the ancient ch. nothing
but the chancel remains, "its E.
end being perforated by 3 circular-
headed windows, ornamented witli
zigzag and other mouldings both ex-
ternally and internally, and con-
nected with each other by stringcourse
mouldings, in which the external one
is enriched with patersB. But the
great feature of the chancel is its
F 2
316
Baute 33. — Limerick to Boyle,
Ireland.
triumphal arch, erroneously supposed
to have been a doorway, composed
externally of 6 semicircular concentric
and recessed arches. The shafts of
the columns, which, with the excep-
tion of the outermost at each side,
are semicircular, are unomamented,
but their capitals, which are rectan-
gular, on a semicircular torus, are
very richly sculptured, chiefly with a
variety of interlaced traceries, and in
2 instances, those of the jambs, with
grotesque human heads. The arch
mouldings consist of the nebule,
diamond frette, and varieties of the
chevron, the execution of which is
remarkable for its beauty." — Petrie.
Preparations have already been begun
for rebuilding the cathedral, when
this masterpiece of architecture will
be restored to its former position.
The cost of restoration of the ch. is
estimated at 10,0002.
The cross of Tuam, also of sand-
stone, once broken into 3 pieces, and
the property of 3 different owners, is
now happily re-united and re-erected.
The base contains inscriptions in
memory of O'Hoisin, the abbot, and
Turlough O'Connor, King of Con-
naught. In proportion to the plainness
of the Protestant cathedral the Boman
Catholic ch. is elaborate. It is a fine
cruciform Perp. building, though un-
eatis&ctory fix)m its excessively florid
ornamentation. •♦ The walls are
strengthened with panelled buttresses
of several stages, terminating in richly
CTOcketed pinnacles rising above the
parapet, which is enriched with open
tracery." The interior of the cathedral,
though very expensively decorated,
has no solemnity or impressive effect
about it.
ExcurgUmB. —
1. Knockmoy.
2. Headford and Ross Abbey.
Conveyances. — RailtoAthenry. Oar
to Headford.
Distances. — Athenry, 15 J m. ;
Knockmoy, 11; Dunmore, 9; Head-
ford, 13, [the road to which place ivma
at £he base of Knock-naa, "the HUl
of Fairies," which, from the flatness of
the country round, is seen for a very
long distance, being a conspicuous
object even from Lough Corrib. At
the foot is Castle Racket, the seat of
D. Kirwan, Esq.].
At 24^ m. rt. Dunmore the monotony
of the country is somewhat relieved by
the Slieve Dart Hills, which run be-
tween this, Ballyhaunis, and Castle-
reagh. Dunmore need not detain the
tourist, for the only interest that
attaches to it arises trom the circum-
stance that TroUope has here laid the
scene of his novel *The Kellys of
Castle KeUy.'
At Castlereagh (Rte. 19) the tra-
veller may either avail himself of
the rly. to Roscommon, or else con-
tinue his journey over a very. bleak
and desolate country to Frenchpark, a
little village protected by the woods
of Lord De Freyne's park.
[From hence a road runs E. to
Elphin (anc. Ailphima), the seat of a
diocese united with those of KUmore
and Ardagh. It is a prettily situated
town, with a plain modernised cathe-
dral used as a parish ch.
From Frenchpark a hilly road,
relieved occasionally by a distant view
of Lough Gara on the 1., runs to
Boyle ( Hotel : Monson's) (Rte. 18).]
Ireland.
Boute 34. — AtMone to Limerick.
317
ROUTE 34.
THE SHANNON, FROM ATHLONE TO
LIMERICK.
This route, about the most beauti-
ful in the inland portion of Ireland,
requires a little arrangement in its
performance, so as to take advantage
of the steamer, which starts every
2nd morning about 11 o'clock, re-
turning from Killaloe on the fol-
lowing day. A few words on the
physical geography of the Shannon
will not be out of place here. Its
source in Legmonshena Mountain,
CO. Leitrim, is described in Rte. 6,
as also various portions of its upper
course as far as Lough Bea and Ath-
lone. It possesses 234 miles of con-
tinuous navigation, and washes the
shores of 10 counties, viz. Leitrim,
Boscommon, Longford, Westmeath,
King's County, Gal way, Tipperary,
Clare, Limerick, and Kerry. " From
Killaloe in the co. of Clare, to its
source, the river assumes a great
variety of character. In some places
it stretches out into seas or lakes,
two of which — Lough Derg and
Lough Bea — are each above 20 m.
long. The falls and rapids, which
on the whole line amount to an ele*
vation of 147 ft., are overcome by
lateral canals and locks." ** Bising
iu one coal formation, emptying it&eU
through another, and washing the
banks of our most fertile counties,
it delivers into the sea the rain col-
lected from an area embracing 3613
square miles of country N. of Killaloe.
In all the geographical characters of
its basin we hnd the conditions for
great evaporation fulfilled. The
country whose waters it receives is
flat — its streams sluggish — the soil
upon its banks either deep and re-
tentive clays or extensive bog. Ex-
panding into numerous lakes of con-
siderable size, often overflowing the
lowlands on its banks, it may be con-
sidered as almost in the condition of
presenting a true water-evaporating
surface. ' * — Kane.
Quitting Atlilone with its noble
bridge and fortifications, nothing
claims attention for the first few
miles, except where the stream di*
vides and encloses the flat sur£eice of
Long Island, at the end of which is
a pile of stones in the river, marking
the division between the counties of
Westmeath, Boscommon, and King's
County; but at
9 m. is one of the most interesting
and holy places in all Ireland — the 7
churches of Clonmachnois — **Cluain
Mac Nois, Betreat of the Sons of the
Noble " — a name gained by the ce-
lebrity in former ages of its monastic
establishments, its gatherings of
learned and pious men, and the
shelter that it afforded to everything
that was holy and good in the days
of dark ignorance and superstition.
In 548 an abbey was founded by St.
Kieran on ground given by Dermod
MacCervaii, King of Ireland, and
continued to flourish under a suc-
cesion of prelates, notwithstanding
the incursions of the Anglo-Normans,
who more than once destroyed and
laid waste the town and ecclesiastical
buildings. The ruins consist of : 1.
The churches. 2. The Bound Tow-
ers. 3. The Crosses.
(a.) The Dahmliag Mor, or Great
Ch., is recorded by the Four Masters
as having been built in 909 by Flann,
a King of Ireland, and Colman Conail-
lech, Abbot of Clonmachnois. It was,
however, subsequently re-edified in the
13th or 14th cent, by Tomultach
McDermott, chief of Moyhurg : it is
now called Teampul McDermott.
The chief points of interest about this
ch. are — the great western doorway, of
which Petrie says, ** But though the
ch. was tlius renedified, we still find
iu the sandstone capitals of its great
W. doorway remains of a more an-
cient ch., as their style and material,
which are different from those of
every other ornamented portion of the
318
Boute 34. — Athlone to Limerich
Ireland.
building, sufficiently show ; and that
such capitals belonged to the door-
way of ihe originid ch. I see no
reason to doubt." The N. doorway,
built by Dean Odo, is of later date,
and presents an elaborate Perp. or-
namentation. Over the arch are 3
effigies -St. Patrick in his pontificals
in the centre, with St. Francis and
St. Dominick on either side; on a
higher tow their portraits are re-
peated ; and on the pillars is the in-
scription—
" DOus Odo Decanos Cluanni me fieri fecit,"
(6.) Teampul Fingliin, or Fineen*s
Ch., supposed to have been erected
about the 13th cent, by Fineen Mac
Oarthy More,, presents little but its
chancel and a round tower attached
to the S.E. junction with the nave.
The chancel-arch, which remains, for-
merlv possessed 3 concentric arches ;
the inner one has Mien away, and
its place is supplied by a plain arch.
Notice the chevron moulding on the
second arch, the Egyptian-looking
heads of the capitals, and " the bul-
bous characters of the bases of the
colunms. ' The chancel is lighted by
a small circular-headed window, and
possesses an ornamented piscina.
(c.) Teampul Connor, founded in
the 10th cent, by Catliol, the son of
Connor, is used as a parish ch. ; ite
sole antiquity is a circular-headed
doorway of that period.
In addition to these, there is a
small ch. or oratory of St. Kieran,
who also possesses here a stone, a
well, and a cellar. This last is just
to the S. of Teampul McDermott, and
has a small octangular belfry.
2. The Round Towers are two : —
(a.) The largest, or O'Rourke's, is
roofless, and stands on an elevation at
the W. side of the ch.-yard. It is com-
])osed partly of the grey limestone
with which this district abounds, and
is entered by a door 15 ft. from the
ground. Dr. Petrie considers it to
have been erected about 908 (coeval
with the Dahmliag Mor), though he
considers "that it was indeed re-
paired at a period long subsequent to
its erection, there is abundant evi-
dence in the masonry of the building
itself, the upper portion being of
coarse-jointed masonry of limestone ;
while the greater part of it below is
of close-jointed ashlar sandstone ; and
besides, it is quite obvious that the
tower when such restoration was
made was reduced considerably in its
original height, as proportioned to
its circumference." From its situ-
ation, this tower is a very conspicuous
feature. "It was high enough to
take cognizance of the coming enemy,
let him come from what point he
might; it commanded the ancient
causeway that was laid down, at a con-
siderable expense, across the great
bog on the Connaught side of the
Shannon; it looked up and down
the river, and commanded the tor-
tuous and sweeping reaches of the
stream, as it un&lded itself like an
uncoiliug serpent along the sur-
rounding bogs and marshes ; it com-
manded the line of the Aisgir
Biadha ; could hold communication
with the holy places of Clonfert ; and
from the top of its pillared height send
its beacon light towards the sacred
isles and anchorite retreats of Lough
Rea ; it waa large and roomy enough
to contain all the officiating priests
of Clonmachnois, with their pixep,
vestments, and books ; and though the
pagan Dane or the wild Munsterman
might rush on in rapid inroad, yet
the solitary wateher on the tower
was ready to give warning, and col-
lect within the protecting pillar all
holy men and things, until the ty-
ranny was overpast." — Otway.
{b.) McCartliy's tower, attached
to the chancel of the ch., is more
perfect ; it is 7 ft. in diameter within
and 55 ft. high, with a conical cross
on the summit. The door of this
tower is level with the ground — an
unusual feature.
3. In front of the W. door of Te-
ampul McDermott, and coeval with
Ireland. Boute 34. — Clonmcichnois — Shannonbridge,
319
it, is the great cross, formed by a
single stone, 15 ft. high and elabo-
rately carved. In the lowest com-
partment of the W. front of the shaft
is an Irish inscription : —
'* A prayer for Flann, son of Maelsechlaiim."
And on the reverse side : —
" A prayer for Coleman, who made this Gross
on the king Flaun."
This settles the question of the date
and the building of the cross. The
sculptures on uie W. side are in-
tended to relate to the original foun-
dation of Olonmachnois by St. Eieran,
while the opposite side commemo-
rates scenes in the life of our Saviour,
from which it obtained the name
given it in the Annals of Tigernach,
of the Cros na Screaptra — or Cross
of the Scriptures. St. Kieran is re-
presented with a hammer in one hand
and a mallet in the other.
In addition to the Crosses, there
are a number of inscribed tombstones,
some of them of the age of 10th cent.
— such as the one to Maelfinnia
(abbot,. 992), Blaimac ^ abbot, 896);
Flannchadh (abbot, 1003), Suibhne
MacMaelhumai (one of the three
Irishmen who visited Alfred the
Great, 891), Coirpe Cromm (bishop,
899), and many others. The whole
place is crowded with gravestones,
showing the preference given to
Clonmachnois as a place of interment.
The festival of St. Kieran is held on
the 9th of September, when im-
mense numbers of people from the
most rengote parts of the country
attend it, and, after performing their
stations, end the day in the usual
fashion of drunkenness.
We must not forget to mention
the episcopal palace and castle of the
OMelaghlins, which stands with
bastions overlooking the river to
the S.W. of the cemetery, and de-
fended by a dry fosse. It is now,
however, a heap of ruins. ** Some
parts lie in masses larger. than human
Habitations in the fosse ; others are
rolled in immense heaps in the val-
lum ; a curtain-wall, at least 10 ft.
thick, lies at an angle of 45°, reclining
upon about i ft. of its thickness." —
Ottoay.
Some distance to the N.E. are the
remains of the nunnery built by De-
vorgilla, daughter of O'MelaghUn,
connected, it is said, with the ch.
by a subterranean passage ; the road
between the two, and carried on to
the E«, is known as the Pilgrims'
Road.
The geologist will notice before
leaving Clonmachnois the singular
gravel ridges or hills forming the
" Aisgir Riadha^" known as " E^ers, "
which intersect Ireland from E. to
W. They here cross the Shannon,
causing the river to be deflected
and form a bend. In fact, the 7 chs.
are situated on a great mass of
drift.
Distances. — By water from Ath-
lone, 9 m. ; by land, 13. Shannon-
bridge, 4 by land ; 5 by water.
14 m. Shannonbridge is a small
town at the confluence of the Suck
with the Shannon, dividing Galway
from Roscommon, which is crossed
by a bridge of 18 arches, resting on
a small island. The Connaught end
of it is defended by a t€te du pont and
an artillery barrack. At 19 J m. we
arrive off Shannon Harbour (for
an account of wiiich with its " Ho-
tel," see *Jack Hinton'), which,
ere the days of railway communi-
cation, was of some importance as
the point of junction between the
Shannon navigation and that of the
Grand Canal, which may, in one
sense, be said to cross the Shannon,
as it sends off a branch of 15 m. to
Ballinasloe; the distance from this
point to the Liffey at Dublin is 80 m.
Here also the river Brosna flows in,
running near Lough Owel (Mullin-
gar), and flowing past 'Clara and
Ferbane. Bordering its N. bank is
the demesne of Moystown House (for-
merly the seat of the L'Estrange
family*), and near it are the ruins of
lasclooney Castle. *
820
SotUe 84. — At7d<me to Limerick,
Irelautt).
24 m. Banagher (Rte. 27) {Hold:
Harp), celebrated for its fiUrs and
its old l»*idge, which is su{^)osed to
have stood for over 400 years. Bnt
as it showed signs of incapability, and
some of the projecting buttresses were
extremely inconvenient, a canal with
a swing bridge was cut on the Gral*
way side. &th sides of the river
are strongly defended by barracks
and batteries; and on the opposite
bank is another of the Esker gravel
ridges. In the neighbourhood of Ba-
nagher are Castle Garden, Clare-
mount fj. Armstrong, Esq.), near
which is the keep of Garry Castle,
and Castle Iver (J. F. Armstrong,
Esq.).
Conveyances. — Daily to Parsons-
town.
DfXance*.— Athlone, 24 m.; Par-
sonstown, 8; Portumna, by water,
13 ; Shannon Harbour, 4 J ; Cloghan,
5 ; Clonfert, 5.
[An excursion may be ftiade to
Clonfert, 5 m. to the N.W. (Cluain-
fearth, the retired spot), where St.
Brendan founded in the 6th cent, a
eh. famous for its 7 altars. It subse-
quently became the seat of a diocese,
and is now imited with Killaloe,, Kil-
macduagh, and Kilfenora. The ca-
thedral, which is also parish ch., does
not contain very much of interest.]
Below Banagher the Shannon be-
gins to divide, and becomes very tor-
tuous and uncertain. Near Esker
Bridge, on rt. are Shannon View, and
Shannon Grove (Hubert Moore,
Esq.^; and further W., Lismore
Castle, and the village of Eyreoourt,
adjoining which is the fine seat of
the family of Eyre.
28 J m. near the junction of the Little
Brosna is Medich (anc. Miline), where
an abbey for conventual friars was
founded in the 12th cent, by O'Mad-
den, chieflSf the county. The remains
stand on the Galway side, on a plot of
ground which, in winter, is frequently
an island.
Commanding Meelick, on the op-
posite bank, is a martello tower, and
on an island a little above are the
Keelogue batteries. The navigation
in this portion of the river is so de-
vious, that a> canal has been cut from
above the batteries, rejoining the
Shannon at the mouth of the Little
Brosna. Passing on rt. Harding
Grove, and 1. !^Uymacegan House,
the tower of Portland Castle, and
Portland House (T. Stoney, Esq.),
the voyager arrives at
37 m. Portumna {Inn: Taylor's),
whichy though in itself situated on
rather flat ground, yet commands fine
views of Lough Derg and the Slieve
Baughta hills on the W. The most no-
ticeable olgectsare the wooden bridge
over the Shannon, built by Lemuel
CoXr the American architect of Derry,
Waterford, and New Koss bridges.
Its total length is 766 ft., the middle
part resting on an island in the
stream.
There are no traces left of De Bur-
gos' ancient castle; but there are
some of the Dominican abbey founded
about the 13th cent., consisting of a
few arches and an E. window. It
was originally a cruciform t>uilding
with a lofty tower long since fallen.
The modem castle of the Earl of Clan-
ricarde, the owner of the town, was
burnt down in 1826, and has not
been rebuilt. Portumna is a neat
little place, and carries on a good
business in grain. Adjoining, in ad-
dition to the Earl of Clanricarde's
domain, are Pahnerstown ( W. Palmer,
Esq.), Fairy Hill (C. Cooper, Esq.\
Wellmount (Capt. M*Donagh), Oak-
ley Park; and on the opposite side
of the river, Belleisle, the seat of Lord
Avonmore, on whose grounds are the
keeps of 2 castles.
[The archfBologist should visit the
ruins of the Abbey of Loragh, which
is a short distance to the E. It is a
long pile of building, the E. gable
of which is destroyed, though the
W. gable, containing a good window,
isinfinepreservat'on. It was lio^bted
at the sides by Early Pointed win-
dows, nearly all of them built up 4
J
Ireland*
Houie 34. — Lough Derg^
321
which might have been adopted as a
means of defence during Cromwell 's
visit to Loragh. The date of the
building is about the 13th cent.,
although the original foundation is
ascribed to St. Kuan, in the 6th cent.
There are ruins of other buildings
in the vicinity J
The tourist is now fairly launched
on the brood expanse of the Shannon,
known as Lough Derg, which ex-
tends as £etr as Killaloe, and in
fact occupies all the remainder of
the route as far as the navigation is
concerned. The scenery on the E.
shore is generally tame and uninter-
esting; but that on the W. is of a
liigh order, embracing a lofty range
of mountains rising from the water's
edge.
Lough Derg (which the tourist
must not confound with Lough Derg
in Donegal co.) is an expansion of
the Shannon of about 25 m. in length
and from 2 to 3 m. in breadth, run-
ning in a direction from N.E. to
S.S.W. ** It has been observed that
in wet weather the level of the water
in Lough Derg often rises 2 or 3 in.
in 24 hours, and has been known to
iTse 12 inches. As the area of the
Lough is 30,000 statute acres, this
extent of water weighs 3,000,000 tons
for each inch ; and hence as much as
36,000,000 tons have accumulated in
a single day and night. 'J he average
diflference between summer and winter
level of the Shannon at Killalocr
where, narrowing" from Lough Derg,
it resumes the river form, is about 6ft.,
but the total of the rises of the water
during the year are found to be lift.
The rising of the waters occupied an
aveiage of 77 days ; in falling to the
summer level they occupied 107 days.
The quantity of water thus accumu-
lated in the great natural reservoir of
the Lough was 532,554,096 cubic
yards, or 403/tl6,600 tons, which is
discharged in 107 days at the rate of
155,926 tons per hour. Bv this, a
force continuing day and night of 177
horse-power per foot of faB may be
obtained." — Industrial Besources of
Irdand.
Quitting the little bay in which
Portumna is situated, and gliding be^
tween the wooded point of Rinmaher,
rt., and the headland of Derrymace-
gan, 1., we pass 1. Slevoir House
( — Synge, Esq.), and enter a consi^
derable expanse — the Upper Lough ;
a range of hills, the Slieve Baughta,-
occupies all the coimtry on the W.,
commencing indeed to the S. of
Loughrea^ and embracing the district
between Kitlaloe on the S.- and Gort
on the W. ; the most lofty points are
the Scalp, 1074 ft., and Knockeveuy
1243 ft.
On rt., situated at the foot of one
of the wooded spurs of Slieveanorer
is the little town of Woodford t from
whence a small river runs into the
Shannon at Rossmore. Iron-ore was-
at one time extensively worked in
this neighbourhood ; and, its very fre-^
quent concomitant, a chalybeate well^
used to attract a good many peoplcr
On the road to Newtown Daly is
Marble Hill, the beautiful seat of
Sir T. Burke, Bart., M.P. A
number of ruined keeps stud the
banks of Lough Derg at various in^
tervals; there is one very near the
head of the lake on the W. shore ; a
second, called Cloondagavoe, on Gregg
Point, rt. ; and a third on 1., in the
grounds of Drominagh (Capt. Tut-'
hill). At this point the Lough nar^
rows, and is studded with several
small islands ; but it widens again op-
posite the demesnes of Kilgarvan, Mota,
Brookfield, and Belleview. Nearly
halfway, the steamer passes the island
of Illanmore, the largest in the lake.
On the N.E. side are remains of a ch.
The mainland on the E. abounds not
only with ruined chs., but also castles,
of which there are 5 or Q^ Although
possessing no peculiarly interesting
features in themselves, they show the
store that the early settlers set upon
this region.
Nearly opposite Illanmore on 1.
are Castle Gamble, with the remains
p 3
322
Bovie 34. — Athlone to lAmertch
Ireland.
of Kilbarron Abbey ch. Then comes
Annagh Lodge, with the adjoining
castles of Cashlaunteigeboght and
Tnllaun. Below these are Ajinagh
Castle, Springmount, Ballvoolliton,
Johnston House, Prior Parfc, Wood-
park, and Prospect House. In the
little bay of Dromineer are the ruins
of Dromineer Castle, Hazel Point Cot-
tage, and Shannon vale ; while on the
opposite shore are the harbour of
Williamstown, and Meelick House.
At this point the direction of the
Lough changes more to the W., and
the most beautiful part of the scenery
opens up in the Bay of Scariff.
On the northern shore is the little
village of Mount Shannon, nestling at
the foot of Knockeven, 1242 ft., and
ndjoining the village are the prettily
wooded grounds of Woodpark (Philip
Beade, Esq.). The antiquary should
land at Mount Shannon for the pur-
pose of visiting Inniscalthra (Innis-
Calthair, or Holy Island), so remark-
able for its chs. and round tower. In
the 7th cent. St. Caimin visited it,
and established a monastery which
became femed for its sanctity and
learning — St. Caimin himself having
written^ conunentary on the Psalms.
His ch. or chs. experienced the usual
fate of destruction from the Danes;
but were more or less re-edified by
Brian Boroimhe,, King of Munster,
in 1027. The principal ch. is con-
sidered by Dr. Petrie to present in its
ruined nave the original features of
St. Caimin's plan, while the chancel
is the work of Brian; the nave is
internally 30 ft. in length by 21 ft. in
breadth, the chancel being a square of
15ft. "These measurements, how-
ever, appear to be those of the original
ch. of St. Caimin, erected in the 7th
cent., as it seems obvious, from the
character of the masonry and of some
of the featureis in the nave, that the
latter, though imquestionably renw)-
delled, was never entirely destroyed."
Notice in the nave the windows, one
being semicircular-headed, with an
architrave such aa belongs to many of
the round towers ; another is square-
headed with inclined sides ; and there
is a triangular vrindow formed of 3
stones, " unique in form of Irish ar-
chitecture." The JV. doorway must
have been remarkably fine, though
unfortunately there is very little left.
It consisted of 3 concentric semicir-
cular arches, ornamented with chevron
mouldings in hoUow lines, but carved
in relief. The piers, which are rect-
angular and rounded at their angles,
have human heads at the capitals.
The chancel-arch has also 3 re-
ceding and concentric arches, but of
a totally different style; they are
simply " of square-edged ribwork, and
the ornamental sculpture is confined
to the piers, which are rounded into
semicolumns."
The roimd tower, of date of about
the 10th cent., was celebrated as being
the residence of an anchorite (indu-
sorius) of the name of St. C(^grath
" the Miserable." Its height is about
80 ft., and its upper story is wanting.
At the head of the bay is Scariff, a
very charmingly situated little town,
at the junction of 2 important roads :
1. From Woodford and Mount Shan-
non to Killaloe ; 2. to TuUa and the
CO. Clare. The range of hiUs which
have been accompanying us for so
many miles, here experience a check,
but rise again almost immediately to
the S. between Scariff and Killaloe ;
the result is a pretty mountain valley
through which flows the river Gra-
ney, rising in a considerable tarn
called Longh Graney, and, when
near Scariff, passing through Lough
O'Grady, from whence it emerges as
the Scariff river. Advantage has been
taken of this valley to form a line of
road to the little town of Tulla.
Opposite Mount Shannon, the main
course of the river runs nearly due S.
down to Killaloe, narrovring very
considerably between Aughinish Point
and Castlelough. The hUls speedily
rise again, but now on both sides
of the channel. Below Castlelough
on I. are the ch. and the ruins
Ireland.
BotUe 34. — KHMoe — Nenagh.
?23
of the castle; succeeded by Tower-
lough Castle and Derry Castle, the
latter in the grounds of F. Spaight,
Esq. On the rt. are the ch. and
schoolhouse of Tinarana, above which
rise the heights of Croughnagower
and GlengaUiagh, 1726 feet; and
speedily the steamer rounds a long
reach in the river< and comes in
sight of the picturesque town of
52 m. Killcdoe {Hotel : Royal, toler-
able), the Utopia of Irish anj^lers, who
have in the broad weirs and rapids of
the Shannon one of the finest opportu-
nities for sport in all the kingdom*
" Owing to the water, flies are very
large and gaudy. They can be ob-
tained at Limerick, also at Mrs.
Blacker's, Dean-street, Soho." It
is charmingly situated at the foot of
the Slieve Bemagh mountains, which
rise to the height of 1746 ft, and
close along the bank of the river, that
rushes, " brawling loud music,*' under
the 19 arches of a long and nari-ow
bridge.
The tourist should not fail to visit
the venerable old cathedral, occupy-
ing the site of a ch. founded in the
6th cent, by St. Lua or Molua (Kill-
da-Lua, Church of St. Lua). He
was the first bishop, and was suc-
ceeded by St. Flannan, son of Theo-
dorick. King of Munster, who be-
stowed many bene&ctiona on the ch.,
which speedily attained great cele-
brity, and became the burial-place of
Muircheartach O'Brien, King of Jie-
land, 1120. It is a fine crucitbrm ch.
of the 12th cent., with a central tower
arising from the intersection of the
nave, choir, and transepts.. The choir
is used as the parish ch. Its re-
erection is attributed to Donell More
O'Brien, King of Limerick, who died
in 1194; but the gem of the whole
building is a magnificent blocked
Homanesque doorway of considerably
earlier date, that is said by tradition
to have been the entrance to Muir-
cheartach's tomb. It consists of 5
concentric arches with singular
mouldings and sculpture. Notice
particularly the figures on the 2nd
arch from the inside.
The W. end is lighted by very nar-
row early lancet windows, deeply
splayed within. Within the pre-
cincts of the ch.yard is a second sin-
gular building — a stone-roofed ch. —
said to have been built by St. Molua
or St. Flannan. Internally it is
29 ft. 4 in. long by 18 ft. broad. It
is lighted by a semicircular-headed
window in the W. gable, and by a
triangular or straightheaded one in
the E* It is entered by a remarkable
doorway, the capital of which "on
the N. side presents a rude imitation
of the Ionic scroll, while that on the
S. presents 2 figures of animals re-
presenting lambs; while the archi-
trave exhibits none of the ornaments
considered as characteristic of Norm,
architecture." Dr. Petrie considers
that the erection of this ch* is to be
attributed to St. Flannan ^ while the
one built by St. Molua is to be found
on an island in the river.
The navigation from Killaloe to
Limerick is carried on by a canal, so
as to avoid the rapids of Killaloe
and Castle ConnelL **The minimum
discharge of the Shannon at Killaloe
has been estimated by Mr. Mullvany,
in the driest summer, so low as
100,000 cubic feet of water per mi-
nute."— Kane,
Conveyances.— Steamer to Athlone ;
rail to Limerick,
D/atoncea.— Scaiiff, by water, 11
m. ; Holy Island, 12; Limerick, 17;
Castle Connell, 7J; Nenagh, 12;
[to which place a road runs round
the southern base of the Arra hills,
and immediately fronting the range
of the Silver-mine Mts., which cul-
minate in the lofty summit of Mt.
Keeper, 2278 ft.
Nenagh is a small garrison town
situated on a stream tluit runs down
from the Silver-mines Mts, into Lough
Derg. It does not contain much of
interest, save the circular keep of the
Castle of the Butlers, usually known
as " Nenagh Round," and one of the
S24
Boute 35. — EtUamcy to Kenmare, Irei.akp.
largest and most important Korman
keeps in the kingdom.]
Conveyance. — Rail toParsonstown,
Dublin, and Limerick.
The remainder of this route is per-
formed by rail, passing 3 m. Bird Hill
Station.
7J m. at CkiitU Conned the
tomist should stop to view the ra-
pids ; where " tlie Shannon pours that
immense body of water, which, above
the rapids, is 40 ft. deep and 800 yds.
wide, through and above a congre-
gation of huge stones and rocks wMch
extend nearly Jm., and offers not
only an unusual scene, but a spectacle
approaching much nearer to the
sublime than any moderate - sized
stream can ofier even in its highest cas-
cade. None of the Welsh waterfalls
nor the Griesbach in Switzerland can
compare for a moment in grandeur
and effect with the rapids of the
Shannon."— JngrZ/«. The river on
either side is lined with pretty
grounds and residences; on the 1.
bank the principal are Castleview,
Woodlands, the Hermitage (Lord
Massey), and New Grai-dens; and
on the right are Waterpark and
Doonass House (Sir Hugh Massy,
Bart.). In the neighbourhood of the
Annacotty station are Mount Shannon
(Earl of Clare), Mulkear, and Thorn-
field (Gen. Bourke) ; soon after which
the rly. crosses a small river called
the Slievemt)hean, and at Killonan
station joins the Waterford and Li-
mencK une
17 m. Limerick (Rte. 33) {Hotd :
Cruse's).
ROUTE 35.
FROM KILLARNEY TO VALENTIA AVD
KENMARE.
A car leaves Killamey every morn-
ing at 8, taking the high road along
the upper shore of the lake, which
passes Aghadoe, and crosses the
LAune at Beaufort bridge. The tourist
will find this portion minutely de-
tailed in Rte. 31 . At the bridge there
are 2 roads to Killorglin ; the one on
the N. bank of the Laune is the pret-
tiest ; but the car follows the other,
winding round the grounds of Beau-
fort House, where it abruptly leayes
the road to the Gap of Dunloe.
Near Cullenagh House (K. Ma-
honey, Esq.), and close to the road-
side, is the circular fort of Labballow.
The country traversed by this road
is wide, open, and bleak; although
on the 1. the landscape is relieved by
the noble ranges of the Heeks and
their secondary ranges, which rise
up in a grand sweep from the undu-
lating morasses in the foreground.
8 m. Ckurchtovm (B\i R. Blenner-
hasset, Bart.). Close by is the
ch., where the McGillicuddys are
buried, and a little to the S. is the
tower of Castle Core, where they
lived. This is the b^t point from
which to ascend the Reeks. At
Banecloon the Gaddagh is crossed
near its junction with the Laune, on
the opposite bank of which is the ruin
of Ballymalis Castle.
At 12 m. the Ct^ttoners river is
crossed, and a broad road running
parallel with the Laune leads into
KiUorglin^ a mean-looking town,
though prettily placed, overlooking
the valley of the Laune, which is
crossed by a long bridge leading to
Miltown and Castleraaine. Here is
still the shell of a castle formerly
belonging to the Knights-Templars ;
but on their dissolution it reverted
to its former owners the Fitzgeralds,
who lost it again in. the Rebellion.
Killorglin will not delay the tourist
lonp:, unless he be an angler.
Conveyances, — Car to Killamey;
car to Cahirciveen; car to Tralee,
through Milltown and Castlemaine.
Distances. — Killamey, 13 m. ;
Lough Carra, 7; Milltown, 5. [To
the latter place the road follows the
rt. bank of the Laune, which very
Irelakd.
Boute 35. — Castlemaine — Glevbay.
828
soon enters a sandy estuary conjointly
with the Maine. There are several
circular forts in this neighhourhood,
one of which close to the road, 1 m.,
is called Farrenmacwilliam. Thence
crossing a shoulder of high ground,
-we descend into
MilUovm and the valley of the
Maine. Adjoining the town is Kil-
coleman.theheautifuUy wooded Eliza-
bethan seat of Sir W. Godfrey, Bart.,
in whose grounds are the remains
of Kilcoleman or Killeagh Abbey,
founded for Augustinians in the reign
of Henry III., by Geoffrey de Mau-
riscus, and now consisting of some
portion of the walls and an E. win-
dow.
A little distance from Kilcoleman
is Fort Agnes, in the grounds of
which is a large circular fort. The
Maine is crossed at 7 m. Castle-
maine "by a bridge supposed to
be coeval with the Thomond Bridge
at Limerick. The ancient caswe
stood over it, and projected con-
siderably on the E. side ; the but-
tresses of the arch by whicli it was
supported are remaining, and the
stone socket on which the pivot of
the castle-gate turned is still to be
seen."
Castlemaine formerly had a good
deal of trade from its position as a
port ; but the Maine having silted
up, and a formidable bar having
formed at the entrance of the haven,
all commerce has nearly deserted it.
Persicus maritimus, a rare plant, may
be found on the shores of Castle-
maine Bay.] Climbing- the steep
hill of Killorglin, the road is hilly
and elevated until a shoulder of
high ground is crossed, and a rapid
descent made to 19 m. Carra Bridge,
where the river Carra rushes down,
a perfect specimen of a Highland
stream, from Lough Carra, About
1 m. from the bridge is the lower
end of the lake, which runs for
about 3 J m. in an irregular curve into
the heart of the mountain district,
offering very great temptation to the
pedestrian who is fond of fine hill
scenery. The lake is narrow, but
its banks are in many places well
fringed with native wood, which ap-
pears to have been much more abund-
ant in times gone by than it is now.
Carex filiformis has its abode there.
There is magnificent trout and salmon
fishing here, and comfortable accom-
modation in the house of a farmer
named Breen, who keeps a lodging-
house. The road to the head of
the lake winds close to the shore for
one-third of the distance, and is then
cut off from it by a hill 'of nearly
1000 ft. in height. It soon reioins
the river higher up at Lickeen
and Blackstones, two beautifully
ffltuated fishing lodges. At this
point the Carra-beg flows in, taking
its rise from Ijough Acoose, at the
foot of Derryfanga, 1 170 ft.
Still higher, we strike the cross-
mountain road from Waterville to
Killorglin. The Carra-beg itself is
formed by a number of small streams
taking tlieir rise from Coomenagh,
2535 Ft., and is well worth exploring,
from the magnificent mountain views
of the Reeks. Indeed, it is a very
good point from whence to ascend
these latter points, as the tourist
thereby gains an entirely different
set of views to those from the other
side. The tourist should stay for a
time at Breen's, and, with the help of
the Ordnance map, visit the recesses
of these ranges of hills, which are
known to few.
21 m. we arrive at Glenhay, or
Glenbehy, a charming little spot at
the foot of a thickly-wooded knoll,
round which the river Beeliy wihds.
The Headley Arms is a comfortable
inn, gei^rally filled by anglers in
search or saliaon fisliing, and occa-
sionally some bathers. Both the
Behy and the Carra flow into Dingle
Bay at the point of junction with 5ie
Castlemaine Haven.
Following up the glen of the
Behy, we have more fine mountain
scenery, particularly near the sum-
326
Boute 35. — KiUamey to Kenmare,
Ireland.
mit, where on the I. a magnificent
amphitheatre of hills unfolds itself.
The highest point about the centre
is Goomacarrea, 2542 ft. (at the foot
of which are a couple of large tarns),
flanked on the 1. by Meenteog,
2350 ft , and on the rt. by Been
Hill, 2189 ft. ; the eminence on the
extreme rt., under which the road
runs, is Drang Hill, 2104 ft., on the top
of which a pattern is held. Soon after
passing a cottage, where horses are
changed, a very splendid view bursts
on the sight— as the road surmounts
the shoulder of the hill and suddenly
drops upon Dingle Bay, alongside of
which a fine terrace is carried for
some miles at a great elevation.
Parallel with us on the opposite
coast are the fine ranges which ex-
tend from Tralee to Ventry — viz.,
Cahir-couree, 2796 ft.; Benoskee,
2715; Brandon, 3127; and Mt.
Eagle, 1695, with the different
inlets up which lie Annascaull, Din-
gle, and Ventry — while the end of
the promontory is finished off with
the rocky islands of the Blaskets.
The view to the 1. is entirely cut off
by the steep hills overhanging the
road, until the coeist trends a little
to the S. at the picturesque village of
Kells or HoUymount, with its cheer-
ful-looking coastguard station. Here
the mountains close in on either side,
the road cutting off the view of the
sea ; and we descend the open val-
ley of the Ferta. There is a
pretty bit of scenery at Carhan
Bridge, with the wooded knoll of
Hill Grove right in front, and the
river on the rt. Close to the bank
is the ivy-covered ruin of Carhan, a
cottage where Daniel O'Connell first
saw the light.
38 m. Cahirciveen {Inn, Fitz-
gerald's), a miserable little town on
the side of a hill overlooking the
Valentia river and harbour. There
is nothing to see in it, but the anti-
quary should cross the river and
visit the ruins of Ballycarbery
Castle, a little to the N. of which is
a singular stone fort, in good pre-
servation, not unlike the Staigae
fort (p. 929). Caiftirciveen is situated
rather finely at the foot of those bluff
mountains which have kept com-
pasiy with the tourist all the way
from KiUamey. The hill overlook-
ing the town is Bentee, 1245 ft
Conteyancet, — Car to KiUamey
daily.
X)i«towce8.— KUlamey, 38 m. ; Bol-
lorglin, 25 ; Glenbehy, 17 ; Valentia,
3 ; WaterviUe, 12 ; Inny Bridge, 9 J.
[The ferry to Valentia Island is
3 m. from the town* and the distance
across to Knightstown is nearly ^ m.
There is a comfortable hotel, ftom.
whence the tourist can visit the
neighbourhood.
The island of Valentia is about
5| m. long, by 2 broad, and is sepa-
rated from the mainland by a cir-
cuitous passage, very narrow at
the N. and S. entrances, but swelling
out in the interval, so as to afford
a secure harbourage. Generally
speaking the surface is bold and
rocky, rising at Ceokaun Mount, the
most northerly point, to 880 ft. ; and
at Bray Head, on the S., to 792 ft
Between these two points, however,
the land sinks to 200 or 300 ft. The
finest scenery, and, indeed, nearly
all that is worth seeing is towards
the N. of the island. At Knightstown
the principal thing is the slate-
works, where the processes of cut-
ting and polishing the slabs may be
constantly seen. Forming part of the
office is the room (almost historic-
ally celebrated) in which were eon-
ducted the operations of the Atlantic
Telegraph — operations which the
inhabitants of Valentia fondly hope
will ere long be revived, to the benefit
of the trade and business which
the estabUshment of the Tele-
graph brought to this district. As
may be seen any day in the papers,
Valentia is still an important tele-
graph-stat. for meteorological re-
ports. Proceeding by a very capital
road on the N. coast, we arrive at
Ireland.
BotUe 35. — Vdlentia — Waierville,
327
Glanleam, the only seat on the island,
and the residence of the Knight of
Kerry, the owner of the soil, and ac-
cording to all accounts, a landlord
who lives firmly seated in the aflfec-
tiotis of his tenants. It is prettily
situated on a clifif overlooking the
harbour and undemeatii the road,
here covered with foliage and brush-
wood. About i m. ahead of it is the
lighthouse of Fort Point, guarding
the narrow entrance between the 2
inlands of Yalentia and Beghinish.
This latter islet is an awkward im-
pediment to the navigation, being
situated exactly midway between
Fort Point and Doulas Head, a pre-
cipitous cliff of 400 ft. in height,
offering a sorry welcome to any un-
fortunate vessel unable to make the
harbour on a stormy night. A
storm here is a grand sight, for even
in calm weather the Atlantic rolls in
gigantic waves, that are said to be
of greater volume at Valeutia than
any other place in the kingdom.
The visitor should follow the road
JU) the slate-quarries, and thence
ascend Ceokaun, which seaward pre-
sents a lofty cliff, but towards the
town is a bluff grassy slope. There
is a fine view from the summit of the
whole of the island, of Doulas Head,
part of the Dingle Mountains, and
the Blasket Point to the N. To the
S. is Bolas Head in the distance;
while inland there is a broad and
extensive sweep of hills running
down from Cahirciveen to Water-
ville. The Cliffs of Brey Head at
the W. end of the island are nearly
800 ft. high, and well worth visit-
ing. For boat excursions the tourist
may visit Ballycarbery Castle or the
shores of Lough Kay, where there is
a fine cave. The road from the
ferry-house, where a car may be ob-
tained, runs between the channel
and the foot of the mountains, giving
off a road to the rt. to Portmagee,
opposite the southern end of Va-
lentia.] Hence it turns inland, and
^t 47^^ m. crosses the Inny river,
a fine trout and salmon stream, that
rises in the hills between the coast
and Lough Carra, and falls into Bal-
linskelligs Bay, an open though iron-
bound bay, with a noble white
strand, the terror of all vessels that
may have drifted into this neighbour-
hood, as there is no holding ground
for them,
50 m. Watermtlei is a little village,
most romantically situated close to
the side of Balhnskelligs Bay, and
on a narrow neck of land that sepa-
rates the sea from Lough Curraun
or Lough Leane. On the banks
of the lake is the Hartopp Arms,
a very comfortable hotel, where the
visitor, be he fisherman, artist, or
pedestrian, may with comfort and plea-
sure bide a while. Lough Curraun,
next to Killarney the finest southern
lake in Ireland, extends into the
heart of the mountains for about
3 m., and is connected with the
sea by a short stream. In fact,
were it not on a higher level, it
might be taken for a large lagoon.
The head of the lake, which is fed
by the Oummeragh River, is em-
bosomed in mountains, and is sur-
rounded by scenery of no mean order.
Boats can be had for viewing the
lake or for fishing; the expense of
the latter item is for a boat and
man 5«. per day. If possible, the
fisherman should obtain the services
of Jim Bradley, who knows the lake
thoroughly. The short connecting
river is preserved by Mr. Butler,
whose house is adjoining the village,
but leave for fishing can be had tor
asking. There are several islands in
the lake, one of which, the Church
Island, contains the ruins of an an-
cient ch. and of the house of St.
Finian Cam, of the date of the 6th
cent. It is nea rly circular external ly,
but quadrangular inside, with a rudo
doorway on the N. side.
The coast scenery in this neigh-
bourhood is fine. BallinskeUigs
Bay is almost circular, the 2 sea-
ward promontories being, on the E.
338
the Hojf's Head, with the rocky
island of Sea riff a little farther out ;
and on the W. Bolus Head, from the
cliffs of which rises Bolus Mt., 1350
ft. in height. [But the most sin-
gular features of the coast are 3 little
islands, some distance out at sea,
known respectively as the Lemon
Rock, the Little Skellig, and the
Groat Skellig. The latter (the far-
thest out), although little more than
a single clifl^ is the object of vene-
ration to crowds of devotees, who
annually perform their difficult pil-
grimage to the ruined abbey of St.
Finian and the station of St. Michael.
** The penance consists in passing, or
rather squeezing, first through a cir-
cular aperture in the rock, some
feet in length, called * The Needle's
Eye ;' and then, by creeping up the
smooth surface of a sloping stone, to
reach a little platform about 1 yard
in width, the sides of whirfi slope
down to the ocean below. From the
further side another slanting rock or
inclined plane ascends, in which
small indentations are made for the
hands and feet. The ascent of this
flag is so difficult and frightful that
it is called * The Stone of Pain.' In
accomplishing this passage the cou-
rage of the faithful is deeply tried ;
the least slip will carry the pilgrim
back to the narrow platform, whence
the acquired momentum of the de-
scent may contribiite to hurry the
victim of credulity down the sides of
the rocks into the depths of the
ocean. After the performance of the
station on the sublime pinnacle of
St. Michael's Pillar, only one service
remains to be accomplished by the
faithful worshipper at this shrine of
the ocean. A narrow stone, 2 ft. in
breadth, and about 10 in length,
projects at right an^es from the
highest pinnacles of the rock ; and at
its extremity, called * The Spindle,' a
cross is rudely graven, which the
pilgrim is required, as the criterion
of his belief, to reach, and repeat
over it a Pater Noster. When the
Route 35. — KtO-amey to Kenmare, Irela^th).
pillar is recovered again the pil-
grimage is passed. The mode of
reaching the point of imminent
danger, on which the cross is raised,
is by sitting astride upon the spindle,
and cautiously edging forward to the
cross, and, without attempting to turn
rounds edging back again with equal
care." — Wright*
On the summit of this loite island^^
714 ft. above the sea, are the ruins
of the monastery, which we are told
was so desolated in 812 by the Danes,
that the unfortunate monks were
starved in their cells.
In this present day the appear^
ance of the Skellig is welcomed by
thousands of sailors, for it is the
seat of 2 noble fixed lighthouses^
the one 372 ft., and the other 173 ft.
above high-water, the light of both
being visible for 25 m.
A smgular little rock to the 8. of
the Great Skellig is called the
Washerwoman's Hock. Althotigh
the Skelligs may be visited froH^
Waterville, the usual way is to make
the excursion from Valentia, as
the boats of the latter place are
more available.] [A fine mountain
excursion may be token from Water-
ville to Lough Oarra, 24 m., although
one that requires settled weather.
The road runs by the W. shore of
Lough Currane, and passes to the 1. of
Lough Derriana, eventually crossing
the Inny not far from its source, and
then cutting through a broad range
of mountains to the valley of ^e
Oarra (p. 325).3
Excursions.-^
1. Valentia.
2. Lough Ourranne,
3. Lough Oarra.
4. Derrynane.
Distances from Waterville. — Valen-
tia, 11 m.; Oahirciv«en, 12; Sneem^
20 ; Staigue Fort, 13 ; Kenmare, 36.
It is a magnificent drive along tlie
coast from. Waterville to Sneem.
About 1 m. frt)m the former place is
the ruined ch. of Templenakilla, and-
Ireland.
Bovte 35. — Staigue Fort.
329
on the ri of the road a Tery perfe(;t
circular earthen fort.
Tlie views are fine over Ballin-
skellig, the Hog's Head, and Bolus
Head ; while on the 1. the mountains
rise directly from the road to a height
of 1600 ft. At 5 m. from Water-
ville there is a very beautiful view
of Derrynane Abbey, the residence
of D. O'Oonnell, Esq., the grandson
of the great Liberator; from this
point a new feature in the land-
scape appears, in the rocky head-
lands and ranges on the opposite side
of Kenmare Bay. At Caherdaniel, 7
m., is a small stone fort on rt. of
rood. We now cut off the project-
ing promontory of the Lamb's Head,
and descend to the pretty village of
Cove. [A li ttle beyond West Cove (E.
O'Sullivan, Esq.), II m., a road to 1.
runs up into the hills for about 2 m.
to Staigue Fort, one of the most
wonderiul antiquarian remains in
Ireland. The best way for the tour-
ist to visit it is to walk, directing
the car-driver to go forward, and
pick him up again at a spot some 4
m. further, where a cross mountain-^
road from the fort comes in. ** It is'
an enclosure, nearly circular, 114 ft.
in diameter from out to out ; and in
the clear 88 ft. from E. to W. ; and
87 ft. from N. to S. The stones are
put together without any description
of mortar or cement ; the wall is 13
ft. thick at the bottom, and 5 ft. 2
in. broad at top at the highest part,
where some of the old coping-stones
still remain. It has one square door-
way in the S.S.W. side 5 ft. 9 in.
high, with sloping sides. In the
substance of this massive wall, and
opening inwards, are 2 small cham-
bers ; the one on the W, side is 12
ft. long, by 4 ft. 7. in. wide, and 6 ft.
6 in. high. The northern chamber
is not so long, but higher. They
formed a part of the original plan,
and were not, like other apertures in
some similar structures, filled up
gateways. Around the interior of
the wall are arranged 10 sets of stairs,
the highest reaching very nearly to
the full height of the wall, and the
secondary flight being about half
that much. Each step is 2 ft. wide,
and the lower flights project within
the circle of. the higher. They lead
to narrow platforms, on which its
warders or defenders stood. Al-
though larger forts of this kind are
known in Ireland, nothing so perfect
in the construction of the staircases
encircling the interior is to be found,
with the exception of Dunmohr, in
the middle island of Aran. A date
of 2000 years cannot be considered
too old for this monument, which is
still in a state of great preservation,
and only to be equalled by those in
Aran, which, however, do not evince
so much care in their design and
construction. What may have been
the original Irish name of * Staigue
Fort,' which is quite a modern appel-
lation, has not yet been determined."
■^ Wilde.
The short cut from the Fort to
the road over the hills should not
be attempted without a guide, as
tlie ground is boggy and difficult.]
The road now keeps tolerably near
the coast — obtaining fine landscapes
of the opposite hills on rt., and still
finer ones on 1. Where the old and
new roads join, there is a beautiful
view looking up the cwm towards
Goomcallee (2134 ft.), a sharp, pre-
cipitous mountain, with a tarn at tho
foot. The summits of tlie numerous
hills belonging to this group lying
between the coast and Killamey,
peer one above the other in wild
confusion, and form a picturesque
entrance to 20 m. Sneem, a poor
little town, or rather village, near
the mouth of the Sneem river, and
embosomed amidst rocks and moun-
tains. There is a small inn, clean and
moderate, where the tourist may put
up for a night. It is a fine mountain-
road from hence to Killamey,
crossing the Blackwater, and joining
the Kenmare road. About 2 m. from
the village is a wooded oasis of
330
Bouie 35. — KiUarney to Kenmare. Ikelanb,
gentlemen*s residenoee, viz.. Holly
Wood (F. Hyde, Esq.), Parknasilla
(now held by Dean Graves), Derry-
qnin OasUe (F. O. Bland, Esq.)i
Keenaferrara (Capt. Hartley).
2 m. from Stieem is the small
Island of Oarirdsh, belonging to the
Earl of Dunraven, the views from
which combine a variety of outline
with a picturesque beauty of detail
scarcely to be met with on the W.
coast of Ireland.
At 28 m. the road crosses the
Blackwater, which runs in a deep
ravine under the one-arched bridge,
foaming and rushing as though it
were still a highland stream, instead
of falling i nto the sea. Wi th ite dense
woods on either side and its festoons
of ivy this is a spot of rare beauty.
[A road on the 1. leads to a
fishing-lodge some distance up the
river. It is worth following the
Blackwater to its source, which is
extremely fine, in a deep amphi-
theatre of mountains, called " The
Pocket." Steep escarpments sur-
round it on all sides save the one
from which the stream escapes. The
cliffs on the W. of the Pocket are
formed by Beown Mt. (2468 ft.), and
on the N. by MuUaghnathin (2539).
These summits form the watershed
between the Blackwater and the
Carra.] Leave for fishing the river
can be obtained from Mr. Malioney,
or by stopping at the Blackwater
inn, Old Dromore.
On the opposite side of the river
are the woods and grounds of Cap-
pandcush or Dromore Castle, the
beautiful seat of R. Miihoney, Esq.,
who kindly allows the tourist to
drive through his demesne. It is a
modem castellated residence, com-
manding charming views of the bay
and river of Kenmare, and contains
the keep of the ancient castle.
Leaving on rt. Dunkerron Castle
(J. Taylor, Esq.), the traveller enters
36 m. Kenmare (Hotel: Lans-
downe Arms, tolerable). This pret-
tily situated little town dates from
1670, the time of its foundation by
Sir William Petty, the ancestor of
the Lansdowne family. " Scarcely
any village built bv an enterprising^
band of New Engianders, far fit>m
the dwellings of their oountrynaen,
was more completely out of the pale
of civilisation than Kenmare. Be-
tween Petty's settlement and tho
nearest Enghsh habitation, the jour-
ney by land was of 2 days, through
a wild and dangerous country. Yet
the place prospered : 42 houses were
erected ; the population amounted
to 180 ; the cattle were numerous ;
the supply of herrings, pilchards,
mackerel, and salmon was plentiful,
and would have been still more
plentiful had not the beach been, in
the finest part of the year, covered by
multitudes of seals. An attempt was
made with great success to set up
iron-works. The neighbourhood of
Kenmare was then richly wood^, and
Petty found it a gainful speculation
to send ore thither." — Macarday,
In 1688 the success of the litUe
colony attracted the jealous and
greedy eyes of the natives, who, re-
garding the inhabitants as heretics,
set to work to plunder and injure
them in every way. For a time they
held out, and were enabled to keep
their own ; but at length, being be-
sieged by a regular army of 3000 men,
the colony was forced to capitulate,
and embark in a vessel for Bristol.
It is charmingly situated at the
very head of Kenmare Bay, where
the Rough ty river empties its waters.
The town itself does not contain any
object of interest, save the Suspen-
sion Bridge which crosses the Sound
on the road to Glengarriff. The
tourist will soon find out, from the
pertinacity of the girls who offer it
for sale, that lace- work is an article
of manufacture here as well as at
Limerick.
The rides and drives in the neigh-
bourhood of Kenmare are remarkably
varied and beautiful, and the follow-
ing are recommended : —
Ireland.
Boute 36. — Cork to Kenmare.
831
1. To Dromore, then up the Black-
water to Lough Brin, from thence
along the valley of the Owenreagh,
and by the new road home.
2. To Headfort by Kilgarvan and-
the valley of the Flesk. The rock
scenery in this vale, especially at
Fileadown or the Demon's Cliff, is
very fine.
3. To Glengarriff by the " Priest's
Leap."
4. Along Kenmare Bay to the
Lakes of Clonee, Inchiquin, and Glen-
more, and 1 hence to me harbour of
Kilmichaeloge.
Conveyances. — Car to Sneem daily,
and, in the season, car to Glengarr^
and Bantry ; also to Killamey.
Distances. — Killarney, 19 m. ;
Glengarriff, 17; Macroom, 29; Ban-
try, 27 ; Sneem, 16 ; Waterville, 36.
The road to Killamey follows up
the course of the Finnihy river, and
gradually ascends from the valley
into the mountains, offering very
fine views, looking to the S., of the
Oaha and Slieve-Miskish Mts., in the
proximity of Bearhaven, between the
iwiys of Kenmare and Bantry.
At the 6th m. a pass in the moun-
tains is entered, and the Sneem road
is joined. Hence it is carried along
the valley of the Owennagh to 8 m.
Looscaunagh Lough. This is one of
the finest routes in the S. of Ireland
—especially when, after passiiig the
Lough, the view of the Lakes ef
Killamey bursts upon the sight.
The remainder of this route is
given in p. 291.
ROUTE 36.
FROM CORK TO KENMARE, Vll BAN-
DON, BANTRY^ AND GLENGARRIFF.
A portion of this route is performed
by the Cork andBandon Rly., opened
in 1851, the terminus of which is in
the S. portion of the city, adjoining
the Exchange. Passing on 1. the
Union House and several pheasant
suburban villas, the first object of in-
terest is the Chetwynd Viaduct, con-
sisting of 4 arches of 121 ft. span.
6J m. Waterfall Station, a little
beyond which on rt. are the walls of
the abbey of Ballymacadane, an
Augustinian abbey of the 15th cen-.
tury, founded by Cormac McCarthy.
The line now passes through a tunnel,
and arrives at Ballinhassig stat. The
village is about 1 m. to the W. The
road from the station passes at the
back of Mount Mary, over a very fine
arch which apans title glen. Ballina-
boy House is the seat of J. Molony,
Es«^. Crossing the Oweuboy river,
which flows into the sea near Carriga-
line and Crosshaven (Rte. 37), Sie
traveller next arrives at Crossbarry,
where there is a junction with the
Kinsale branch, 11 m. in length,
which has the merit of being one of
the cheapest lines in the kingdom, it
only having cost 6000/. a mile.
24 m. Kinsale {Hotel: Royal
George; a new one is now build-
ing by the Railway Co.) is both
quaint and striking in its appear-
ance, the houses rising in tiers
on the side of the Compass Hill,
overlooking the windings of the
Bandon river. On the same side,
but fronting the town, are the vil-
lages of Scilly and Cove, which are
a good deal frequented in the bathing
season. The harbour is defended by
Charles Fort, a little below Cove,
and the Old Fort, occupying a pro-
montory round which the river makes
a great bend. The latter, however,
otherwise called Castle-ni-park, is no
longer kept up : it is hexagonal in
shape, and the towers and intrench-
ments are in tolerable condition. Kin-
sale does not contain much of antiqua-
rian interest, save the ch., a fine old
cruciform building, said to have been
erected by St. Multosia in the 14th
century. It contains a venerable
tower at the W. end, with the upper
stage of smaller dimensions, and
a small broach spire; a JN*. tran-
sept with a 5-light window; a S.
332
Bmde 36. — Cork to Kenmare.
Ireland.
trans, in rnins. The doorway of the
tower is evidently of later date. In
the interior are some monuments
to the families of Southwell and
Perceyal^ temp. Charles I. It must
not. however, be inferred that the
.t>wn is modem, for, on the con-
trary, it is one of the oldest in
Ireland, and is alluded to in ancient
MSS. as Cean Taile, " the headland
in the sea.'* In the 14th century
it came into the possession of the
powerful family of Courcy, who built
a oastle and made it a walled town,
and ever since that period Einsale
knew very little peace, but came
in for an unusual number of hard
blows, principally at the hands
of the Spaniards in 1601. They
seized and held it for some days
ag^ainst the English army under
Ijord Mountjoy and Sir J. Carew,
who, when they called on the Spanish
commander to surrender the town,
received for answer that ** it was held
for Christ and the King of Spain."
Kinsale suffered again during the
Parliamentary war, in which it de-
clared in favour of Cromwell. There
is a very cliarming walk at the back
of the ch. and round Compass Hill,
from which the visitor gains beau-
tiful views of the Forts and the
Bandon river, with a ruined ch. and
oastle on the opposite bank. From
the security of the harbour and the
speed with which vessels could gain
the open sea, Kinsale has been exten-
sively used as a rendezvous for squad-
rons of the navy and homeward or
outward bound vessels. It is lighted
by a fixed light at Charles Fort, off
which there is rather an awkward
bar ; also by a fixed light on the Old
Head of Kinsale, 294 ft. above high
water, and visible for 28 nautical
miles. It is a pleasant excursion from
the town to the Head, a promontory
anxiously looked for by the homeward-
bound voyager from America, who
sights the Oid Head of Kinsale before
any other British land. The best
though longest way is by the village
of Ballinspittle, where there is a
remarkably perfect fort with treble
ramparts and intrenchments. It is,
however, considerably nearer to cross
the ferry. The Danes are said to
have received their first defeat firom
the Irish at this spot. Passing
Garrettstown (A. Forster, Esq.),
the road emerges upon Courtnaac-
sherry Bay, and enters the penin-
sula at Lispatrick. The geologist
will find Posidonia lateralis in the
slates of this district. The Signal
Tower is placed on a strip of land,
where the interval between the
rocks on either side becomes very
contracted ; the little bay on each
side is known as Holeopen Bay,
and on the W. side of it are the
ruins of the old castle, built by the
De Courcys in the 12th century.
The Head itself, though only 256 ft.
above the sea, presents magnifi-
cent coast views, the chief points to
the W. being the Seven Heads and
the Galley Head. The distance
from the town to the lighthouse by
the nearest road is 5 m., and by
Ballinspittle 9 m.; to Bandon, 13
(by road) ; Cork, 24 ; Ini&hannon 8 ;
Carrigaline, 13.
1^ m. from Brinny stai, and
near the grounds of Beechmount
is a remarkably large Cashel Fort
occupying an eminence of 600 ft.
At 18 m. luishannon stat., the
riy. crosses Bandon river, a little
above the point where the Brinny
falls in. A very lovely view it is,
the course of the river being marked
by charming wooded creeks and
residences.
On the N". side of the Bandon is
Doradaniel House (Bev. R. Clarke ),
in the grounds of which are the ruins
of the castle, built by Barry Oge in
1476." On the S. bank are Belmont
and Cor Castle (J. Corker, Esq.),
commanding views of the valley of
the Brinny, the confluence of which
with the Bandon is thought by many
to exceed in beauty the Vale of
Avoca.
Ireland,
Bouie 36. — JBandon,
333
[1 J m. down the river is the little
town of Inishannon, which, though
once an important walled and cas-
tellated place, has little to recom-
mend it now but its beautiful situa-
tion. Still further down towards
Kinsale are the beautiful grounds of
Shippool (W. Herrick, Esq.), ex-
tending for a considerable distance
aloDg the river-side; the ruins of
Poulnalong Castle, an old fortress
of the McCarthys ; and Bock Custle,
in the grounds of which are slight
remains of Carriganass Castle.]
Skirting the demesne of Woodlands,
and passing rt. the tower of Kilbeg
Castle, the train arrives at its ter-
minus at
20 m. Bandon (Inns : Devon-
shire Arms ; French's), next to
Cork the busiest and most im-
portant town in the county. It is
pleasantly situated on the rt. bank
of -the Bandon river, in a broad
open valley bounded on the N. by
the Clara Hills. With the exception
of the handsome modern ch. and a
modem E. C. chapel, the town itself
contains very little that is interest-
ing to the tourist, except the Earl
of Bandon 's Park of Castle Bernard
that stretches along the banks of
the river to the W. The Bandon
is navigable only to Inishamiou,
which may- therefore be considered
as its port; but a great deal of
business is carried on in distilling,
the principal establishment being
that of Messrs. AUman, one of the
largest in the S. of Ireland.
Conveyances. — Rail to Cork ; car
to Bantry and D unman way ; in the
season daily to Glengarriff and Ken-
mare ; daily to Skibbereen ; daily to
Clonakilty.
A riy. is in course of construction
to Skibbereen.
Distances, — Cork, 20 ; Inishannon,
3 ; Dunmanway, 17 ; Clonakilty, 14 ;
Timoleague, 8; Bantry, 37; Skib-
bereen, 34 ; Bosscarbery, 22 J.
Excursions. —
1. Inishannon.
2. Timoleague.
3. Enniskeen and Kinneith.
The direct route from Bandon to
Bantry is through Dunmanway, the
road to which keeps the N. or 1.
bank of the river, skirting the
grounds of Castle Bernard and
Laragh House.
26 m. on S. side is Kilcolman (W.
Lamb, Esq.), and on the N. the
Glebe House of Morragh and Palace
Ann (A. Beamish, Esq,), a curious
old-fashioned residence of the 17th
cent.
29 m. are the villages of Ennis-
keen and Ballyneen.
[3 m. to rt., on the old mountain
road to Macroom, over the Clara Hills,
is the Round Tower of Kinneith or
Kinnergh, 75 ft. high and 65 in cir-
cumference. The chief peculiarity
about it is that for the first 15 ft. it
is of hexagonal shape, and circular
for the remainder of its height.]
31 J m., at the confluence of the
Blaokwater with the Bandon, the
road passes several pleasant seats,
that make a contrast to the mono-
tonous character of the scenery. On
1. Kilcaskan Castle (O'Neill Daunt„
Esq.) ; and on rt. Fort Robert (once
tlie residence of the late Feargus
O'Connor), Laurel Hill, Carrigmore,
and Manch House (D. 0'Ck>nnor,
Esq,).
[33 m. 1. a road to Clonakilty
crosses the Bandon, soon passing
the ruins of BaUynacarrig Castle
(the Hamlet by the Rock), a for-
tress built by the McCarthys to
command the pass. " It is a lofty
square pile of building, the walls of
wnich are 6 ft. in thickness ; a ^nml
stone staircase leads to the battie-
ments. The upper apartment is
lighted by circular arched wmdowfi*
with mouldings enriched with curi-
ous devices and various scriptural
emblems, among which is <mr
Saviour on the cross between 2
thieves. There are also the initials
*R.M. — C.C., 1585,' commemorating
Randal McCarthy and his wife
834
Route 36. — Cork to Kenmare,
Ireland.'
Catherine Collins. Below this apart-
ment is a lofty vaulted hall, which
from the brackets and small windows
still remaining is supposed to have
been originally divided into 3 dif-
ferent stories." — Lewis.']
The ceuntry, whicn has been
hitherto undulating, becomes wilder
and more mountainous at Dunman-
tioay {Inn: Wagner's), 37 m. which
is on the slopes of the shoulders
thrown out to the S. by the Sheehy
Mountains. The Bandon here makes
a turn from the N., Dunmanway
itself being situated on an affluent
formed by 2 streams dignified with
the names of The Brewery and the
Dirty River. Immediately at the
back of the town is Gunery Hill and
Yew-tree Bock, 1032 ft., the Bandon
taking its rise in the elevated moors
between the latter and the Sheehy
Hills. There are 2 roads from Dun-
manway to Bantiy, and it is hard to
say which is most hilly and dreary ;
the one usually taken is to the 8.,
following up the stream of the
Brewery, and then crossing the hills
to 45 m. the village of Drimoleague,
soon after which the Hen, which
joins the sea near Skibbereen, is
crossed. If the traveller takes the N.
road, he will pass the ruins of Castle
Donovan, a solitary and rude for-
tress-tower of the O* Donovan family.
57 m. Bantry. [If the tourist is
not tied to time, he will find a more
interesting though considerably
longer route to Bantry, by coasting
it to Timoleague, Clonakilty, and
Skibbereen. A pleasant road runs
S. from Bandon up the little valley
of the Bridewell, giving off rt. at
Old Chapel, 1 m., a direct road to
Clonakilty. Mayfield on rt. is the
seat of T. Poole, Esq.]
At the mouth of the Arjideen river,
8 m., is Timoleague (Ty-Mologua,
*• The House of St. Mologua "), cele-
brated for its Franciscan Abbey,
founded in the commencement of the
14th cent, by the McCarthys. It
consists of a nave, choir, and S. |
transept, with a singular light square
tower rising between the 2 former
to a height of 68 ft. This tower,
together with the library and d(»ini-
tories, was an addition of the Bishop
of Ross in the 16th century.
On the S. of the nave and the W.
of the transept is a graceful open
arcade, " supported by 7 irregular
arches resting on cylindrical and
square pUlars without capitals."
The nave is lighted by pointed,
square-headed, and ogee windows;
the E. window and the one in the
Is^nsept are of 3 lights (E. Eng.),
while the W. window is of 2 lightsl
To the E. of the transept are the
remains of an oratory ; there are also
portions of the domestic offices.
The situation of the abbey is charm-
ing, as the sea washes its very walls,
running up an inlet from the bay of
Courtmacsherry. A convenient cir-
cumstance was this for the friars, who
were thus enabled to receive at their
doors many a cargo of Spanish wine.
Adjoining the village are Timokagtie
House and Ummera. 2J m. to the
S.E. is the pretty village of Courtmac-
sherry, principally inhabited by
fishermen, on the S. side of the inlet.
To the N. of the road between
Timolea^e and Clonakilty is the
ch. of lulmaloda, which has been
well restored by Mr. Bence Jones, a
gentleman residing near Clonakilty.
14 m. Clonakilty {Inn : Donovan's ;
bad) will not detain the tourist
long. It is rather pleasantly situ-
ated at the head of an inlet of the
sea, which, however, is very detri-
mental to the trade of the town,
owing to its tendency to silt up, and
thus prevent any but small vessels
from approaching the harbour.
The Earl of Shannon built a
Linen Hall and tried to establish a
trade, but it did not answer. The
archseologist will find a good many
ruins in the neighbourhood, althougn
none of them are of importance or
offer any very interesting features.
They consist of a ch.on the island of
Ireland. BotUe 36. — Boascarhery — Sktbhereen.
385
Inchdorey, a castle at Arundel on
the E. coast of the inlet; also at
Punnycove, Dunowen, and Dim-
deady on Galley Head. The last 3
are about 8 m. to the S. of Clona-
kilty. There is also a stone circle 1
m. N. of the town.
ConveyanceB. — Car to Bemdon.
Distances. — Bandon, 14 m. ; Timo-
league, 6; Rosscarbery, 8J; Galley
Head, 9 ; Skibbereen, 20.
The scenery improves considerably
in the neighbourhood of
22J m. Bosscarhery, the termina-
tion of Oarbery being added to dis-
tinguish it from Boss in co. Water-
ford. It is a charmingly situated
little town at the head of a piU run-
ning up from Rosscarbery Biay, part
of which is crossed by a long cause-
way road from the E. shore. Look-
ing N. are the woods of Oahermore
(T. Hungerford, Esq.) In the 6th
cent. St. Faughnan, otherwise called
Mongach, or " the hairy," founded a
monastery and religious school, the
nucleus of the present diocese of
Boss, associated in jurisdiction with
Cloyne and Cork. The cathedral
(also the parish ch.) is a Perp. cruci-
form building, with an octagonal spire
rising from me tower. There is a
circular-headed S. doorway, and a W.
window of 3 lights, and the nave is
separated from the choir by a screen.
At the W. end, in the interior, is a
circular-headed arch, the crown of
which is ornamented with a head.
To the S. of the cathedral are the
remains of St. Faughnan's ch., of
which very Uttle is left but the walls
of the choir.
1 m. to the E. is Templefaughtna,
the ruins of an old establishment of
the Knights Templars. It is a pretty
walk to the Bay of Rosscarbery, the
shores of which are adorned by the
grounds of Creggane (B. Starkie,
Esq.) and Castle Freke (the beautiful
estate of Lord Carbery). On the W.
coast of the inlet is Downeen (Bev,
J. Smyth), a modem residence, to-
gether with the tower of the old castle.
Adjoining the town on the upper road
to Leap is Derry, the seat of H.
Townsend, Esq. The lower one
crosses the Boury river, passing 1. ,
Boury House, and Coppinger's Court,
a ruined mansion of that &,mily, who
flourished in the time of Elizabeth.
The head of another estuary is
crossed at
27 m. Leapf a picturesque village,
where the Leap river flows through
a deep ravine that, in the days of -
bad roads and faciUty of getting
into debt, provoked the saying, " To
live beyond the Leap was to live
beyond the Law." Both these re-
proaches are now remedied, and the
Leap is spanned by a good bridge.
On the opposite baii of the estuary
of Glandore are Brade House (T.
Swanton, Esq.) and Myross (S.
Townsend, Esq.), the woods of which
add much to the beauty of the scene.
Lower down is the village of Union-
hall, from whence there is a ferry to
the opposite village of Glandore.
[About 7 m. to the S. of Leap is
Castle Haven, another of these nu-
merous inlets, along the W. shores of.
which are the village and woods of
Castle Townsend (Bev. M. Towns-
end). The views from the bay and.
clifl& are extremely fine, command-
ing Toe Head and the whole line,
of coast from Galley Head to Cape
Clear.] Passing a series of fresh-
water ponds, called the Sheppertoii
Lakes, and well stocked with trout,
the traveller reaches
33 m. Skibbereen (Inns: Com-
mercial ; Becher's Arms) is a town .
of some importance in this dis*
trict, as it is the largest in the
S.W. comer of Ireland, and does
a £Biir business in grain and agri-
cultural produce, though to Eng-
lish ears it is principally associate^
with distress, this locality having
suffered to a fearful extent in the
famine year. It is situated some
distance up the Ben, which is navi-
gable for small vessels to the
town, and for larger ones as far aa
336
BotUe 36^ — Cork to Kenmare.
Ireland*
Old Court, some 3 m. down. The
town itself does not contain much
worth seeing, though the Boman
Catholic chapel is a pretentious Gre-
cian building. [A very pretty trip
can be made along the E. bank of the
Hen to the little port of Baltimore,
passing Old Court and Creagh (Sir H.
Becher, Bart.), off which is the island
of Inchbeg.
8 m. Baltimore ia finely situated
on the E. coast of the Bay of the
same name, which is sheltered on
the W. by the island of Sherkin : a
rock overlooking the pier is crowned
with the ruins of the castle. From
its accessibility and its convenience
as a harbour of refuge, it was always
the resort of a number of foreign
fishermen, so much so that Edward
VI. had it in contemplation to build
a fort and make them pay tribute.
The 2 great events of the town were
its surrender to the Spaniards by Sir
Fireen ODriscoU in 1662, and its
subsequent capture by the Algerines,
who canied oflf 200 prisoners to
^Igiere. The principal interest lies
in the pound, approached by a steep
flight of steps, up and down which
the wretched ammal has to be con-
veyed.
The whole of this coast is indented
and irregular in the highest degree,
and offers to the pedestrian some fine
cliff scenery. On the return to
Skibbereen a detour to the E. should
be made to visit Lough Hyne, a sort
x)f cul-de-sac of the sea, which can
only enter in by a very narrow pas-
sage, just wide enough for a boat,
causing at high water an extraordi-
nary commotion. In the centre of
the Lough is an islet wilh a ruined
tower on it ; and on the W. bank is
a cottage ornee, built by Sir H.
Becher. ' The scenery at the head,
underneath the cliff and head of
Knockomagh, is particularly ro-
mantic]
Conveyance. — Car to Bandon.
Distances.— "BsLndon, 34 m. ; Cork,
54; Easscarbery, 11^; Clonakilty,
20 ; Baltimore, 8 ; Bantry, by Drimo-
league, 20 ; Dunmanway, 16 ; Bally-
dehob, 10 ; Roaring Water,? ; Skull,
14 ; Lough Hyne, 4.
Excursions. — ■
1. SkuU.
2. Leap.
3. Lough Hyne.
4. Baltimore.
The usual route followed to Bantry
pursues the valley of the Hen, pass-
ing 1. Hollybrook, the seat of J.
Becher, Esq., and Mount Music. A t
Drimoleague it joins the direct road
&om Bandon.
[The traveller, with whom time is
no object, and does not mind rough-
ing it a bit, should continue round
the coast by the Crookhaven road,
that leaves Skibbereen along the rt
bank of the Hen, parting company
with it at Newcourt (L. Fleminjr,
Esq.) To tlje rt. of the road a wild
range of hills comprise the district of
West Carbery, forming a sort of
backbone to the long, jutting pro-
montoiy, which, with many others,
characterise this SW. coast. The
scenery is romantic at Roaring Water,
7 m., where a mountain river rashes
impetuously through a deep glen,
into the bay of the same name. A
second inlet runs up to Ballydehob,
10 m., in the neighbourhood of which
copper-mines have been worked.
The Bay of Roaring Water is of
considerable extent, and contains
some rather large i^nds—ilie most
important, and the farthest out at
sea, being familiar to every school-
boy under the name of Cape Clear.
Clear Island is nearly 2 m. in length
by f m. in breadth, and contains a
coastguard station, a lighthouse
which shows a revolving light, and
a telegraph which effects a saving of
some six horn's in the transmission of
American news-J
14 m. SkuU {Inn: Prince of Wales^
is a little village at the head of SkoU
Harbour, at the foot of Mount Gra-
briel, which rises to the height of
1339 ft. The parish is of euomiouft
Ireland.
Boute 36. — Bamtry.
837
size, and externally ia wild and
desolate. Copper, however, has been
largely found and extensively worked,
principally at Oappagh, overlooking
the coast between Ballydehob and
Skull, and also at Horse Island.
There is another mine immediately
opposite Skull, near the ruined Castle
of Ardentenant, a fortiess of the sept
of Mahony.
Close to the village is Ardmanagh
House. The Ultima Thule of civi-
lization will be found at 26 m. Crook-
haven, a considerable village partly
on the mainland and partly on a
long peninsula adjoining it, the in-
tervening water forming the haven.
The ch. was built by the Bishop
of Cork, in 1701, for the accommo-
dation of the sailors visiting the port,
of which, in times of war especially,
there used to be considerable num-
bers. The promontories at the ter-
mination of this district are Brow
Head, Mizen Head, and Three Cas-
tles. The tourist, however, can cut
across from Crookhaven and coast
up Dunmanus Bay to Dunmanus,
where there is another ruined keep
of the Mahonys, and again a third
higher up at Dunbeacon. On the
opposite shores, which are bold and
picturesque, are the pretty seques-
tered residences of Evanson's Cove
(R. Evanson, Esq.) and Donovan's
Cove (T. O'Donovan, Esq.). Near
the village of Carrig Boy, at the
head of the Bay of Dunmanus, are
Blair's Cove and Ardogeena (R. T.
Evanson, Esq.). ,
Bantry {Hotels: Vickary's; Lan-
nin's), has attained an historical noto-
riety from its position at the head of
Bantry Bay, a position which the
French have twice singled out as the
most fit for their schemes of invasion.
The first occasion was in 1689, when
a French fleet was engaged by
Admiral Herbert, in which the
former appear to have had somewhat
the best of it; and the second was
in 1796, when a fleet with 15,000
men appear^ in the Bay, with the
\Irela7id.']
intention of landing. Fortunately,
however, a severe storm dispersed it
before the mischief was done. It is
a small and poor town, "in a small
valley encircled by lofty mountains,
which, attracting the clouds in their
passage over the Atlantic, involve it
in almost continuous rain." Adjoin-
ing the town is Bantry House, the
seat of the Earl of Bantry; and
opposite it is Whiddy Island, once a
forest, but now converted into farms.
It is defended by 3 redoubts, and
contains near the northern one the
ruins of a fortress of the O'Sullivans.
There are also fine views of the
opposite coast of Bearhaven, to which,
if the weather is fine, it is the best
plan to proceed by water, as thus
there is a saving of 13 m.
Conveyances, — Coach daily in the
season to Glengarriff, Kenmare, and
Killarney ; dmly to Dunmanway
and Bandon.
Distances. — Cork, 57 m. ; Bandon,
37; Dunmanway, 20; Skibbereen,
by Drimoleague, 20 ; Crookhaven,
22 ; Skull, 15 ; Castleton Bearhaven
(by water), about 20 ; Glengarriflf, 10 ;
Kenmare, 27; Gougane Barra, 16;
Macroom, 34.
Excursions. —
1. Pass of Keimaneigh.
2. Gougane Barra.
3. Crookhaven.
4. Glengarriff.
The chief beauty of the southern
route to Killarney may be said to
commence at Bantry, ihe road fol-
lowing the N.E. bend Of the bay,
passing 1. Newtown House, and soon
afterwards crossing the Mealagh,
which, in ite &11 over a ledge oi
rocks, produces a charming little cas-
cade. On 1. is Dunnamark House,
and on rt., up the valley of the
Mealagh, Drombrow and Inchiclogh.
60J m., at Ballylickey House (A.
Hutehins, Esq.) the Owvane is
crossed, and the road falls in from
Gougane Barra and the Pass of
Keimaneigh (Rte. 37). On the
bank of the Owvane, at Carriganoss,
Q
338
BmUe 36. — Cork to Kenmare,
Ireland.
is a mined tower, built by O'Sul-
livan, and defended against the
forces of Elizabeth. At 61 J m. the
Coomhola is crossed. This is a very
considerable stream, running from the
mountains parallel with the Owvane,
and rising about 7 m. to the N. in
Lough Nambrackderg, a beautiful
mountain tarn, surrounded on all sides
by the lofty precipices of Kinkeen,
1666 ft., similar to, only on a smaller
scale than Gougane Barra. The
recesses of these hills can be ex-
plored by following the road up the
valley of the Coomhola. A little
f urtber on are the beautiful grounds
of Ardnagashel (S. Hutchins, Esq.),
and soon the attention of the traveller
is entirely occupied by the exquisite
views of
Glengarriff, "The Rough Glen,"
67 m., the brightest and most
beautifal spot in Co. Cork. Glen-
garriff is the name of a harbour
which runs in with a singularly in-
dented coast outline from the N.W.
head of Bantry Bay. The great
charm of the place is the beautiful
framework of mountains in which the
picture is set, and the foreground of
woods that surround the eastern por-
tion of the harbour and the course
of the Glengairiff. **Were such a
bay lying upon English shores, it
would be a world's wonder. Perhaps
if it were on the Mediterranean or
the Baltic, English travellers would
flock to it by hundreds. Why not
come and see it in Ireland? The
best view of this exquisite scene —
the charm of a soft climate enhancing
every other — is obtained from the
height of the hilly road leading to
KiUamey, and at the foot of which
is a pretty cottage, preferred as a
residence for many years by Lord
Bantry to the stately mansion at
Bantry. This cottage is placed on
an island formed by a mountain
stream, the approach to which is by
a bridge made &om the mainmast of
a French ship of the line, one of the
Invading fleet of 1796:' —Thackeray.
Roche's Royal Hotel, and Eocles*
Hotel, are both tolerable ; the latter
rather the best; and the tourist
cannot do better than stay a day or
two to explore the beauties of the
neighbourhood. Writers and tra-
vellers of all classes have united in
singing the praises of this delightfid
bay, which is in truth a perfect Para-
dise, the only drawback to which is,
that it puts one out of conceit with,
the rest of the country.
The view from the hotel of the
almost landlocked bay, with its many
islands, the grounds and woods of
Glengarriff Castle (R. H. White.
Esq.) on the 1., and the coast to-
wards Bearhaven on the rt., is in
itself an inducement that very few
hotels can offer. The principal
objects of interest are the grounds
of Glengarrifl^ together with the
adjoining property of George P.
White, Esq., through which run
charming walks and drives; Crom-
well's Bridge, on the old Bearhaven
road, a ruinous old bridge said to
have been built by Cromwell at an
hour's notice ; the ascent of Cob-
dhuv, 1244 ft., at the back of Glen-
garriff Castle ; and an exploration of
the Caher Mountains, a most pic-
turesque range that intervenes be-
tween Bantry and Kenmare Bays.
The Glengarriff river rises amidst a
number of small tarns on tlie E. side
of the Eagle's Nest, 2005 ft. They
are all full of trout, and the angler
will obtain good sport, particularly
in the Bantry Lake, a rather lar^:e
tarn, under Crossterry Mountain,
1130 ft., sending off a tributary to
the Glengarriff. The geologist will
find some splendid sections at the
head of Bantry Bay of the Glen-
garriff grits (or upper comstones),
overlaid by the Dingle beds and
red sandstones of the conglomerate
series, passing up from uiem into
the carboniferous slates.
[An excursion should also be made
to Castleton Bearhaven^ 22 m., in
Ireland.
Bouie 37. — Cork to Bantry,
S39
which the tourist will obtain many
beautiful mountain and sea views.
The road keeps tbe W. coast of
the bay, skirting the foot of the
Caher ranges to 12 m. Adrigoole
Harbour, a picturesque little inlet
situated at tbe base of Hungry Hill,
the higbest point of tbe Caber
mountalDS, 2251 ft. **It is from tbe
precipitous acclivities of Hungry
Hill that tbe Adrigoole stream is
thrown over a ledge of rocks 700 ft.
in heigbt, and wbicb is tbe finest
mountain cataract in tbe kingdom :
particularly after rains, wben tbe
river is swoUen, tbe effect is sub-
lime. From its bread tb and eleva-
tion, tbe fall can often be distin-
guished at Bantry, a distance of 1 1
miles." — Fraser. Tbe ranges of tbe
Caber mountains now give place to
tbe Slieve Miskisb, tbe slopes of
wbicb run down to tbe end of tbe
promontory of Dursey Head.
22 m. Castleton Bearhaven (Irm:
Harrington's, comfortable) bas grown
to its present importance principally
since the discovery of tbe Bearhaven
copper-mines at Allibies.
Opposite tbe town, and separated
by tbe Bear Haven, is Bear Island, a
rocky island of some 6 m. in length,
which is still nominally kept up in
a state of defence by tbe Govern-
ment. There are several redoubts,
looked after by a sergeant and a
few men under him.
A road runs from Castletown
right across tbe promontory, passing
Dunboy Castle (H. Puxley, Esq.), to
the mines, which are 7 m. distant.
•• In the space of 3 or 4 m. are several
veins, most of which run E. and W.,
and dip to tbe N. Some of them
were found on trial unproductive,
and were abandoned; but 2 veins,
one called the Mountain, being
situated 450 ft. above tbe level of
the sea, and the other tbe Camniche
vein, which runs N.E., have ftfl*-
nished tbe principal workings. Of
the former the yield is about 200
tons a month, of about 10 per cent.
produce. Tbe Camniche vein has
been very productive : tbe ore ia
cleaner than in tbe Mountain vein,
and the breadth of the lode is from
1 to 12 ftr— Kane.
About 1000 people are employed
at these mines, which are worked by
5 steam-engines, and tbe produce of
wbicb is shipped to Swansea. Tbe
tourist can either return to Glengarriff
by tbe same road, or else cut across the
promontory, and reach Kenmareby
a road along tbe S. side of Kenmare
Bay by Kilmicbelogue Harbour. If
time permit this route is well worth
following. Tbe views about Kil-
micbelogue and Derreen are most
lovely.] Tbe drive from Glengarrift
to Kenmare is very fine. Tbe road
winds up tbe valley of tbe Glengarriff
for a little distance, passing Glengar-
riff Lodge, and then strikes up into
tbe mountains, crossing immediately
under Turner's Bock, 1393 ft., by a
tunnel. It then crosses tbe Sheen
river, and descends its valley, passing
altogether through 3 tunnels, 45 ft.,
84 ft., and 600 ft. in length. Tbe
views, both amongst the mountains
and on tbe descent, are of the most
beautiful description.
Tbe Kenmare river is crossed by
a suspension bridge of 410 ft. in
length, and tbe tourist arrives at
84 m. Kenmare (Hotel ; Lansdowne
Arms), Etc. 35, in wbicb tbe re-
mainder of the route to Killamey is
described.
ROUTE 87.
PROM CORK TO BANTRY, Vli MA-
CROOM.
Cork is one of tbe most incon-
sistent cities in Ireland, — a mixture
of noble streets and broad quaya,^
Q 2
840
Boute 37. — Cork to BarUry.
Ireland.
with the very. dirtiest of ill-paved
lanes, the whole heing set off by
a charming frame of scenery that
compensates for many a defect.
Sotels: Imperial, first-class; Victoria,
pretty good. Good lodgings at Tan-
ner's, confectioner, Grand Parade.
Pop. 80A21.
The earliest notices of the city
date from the times of St Nessan
and St. Finbar, who flonrished about
the 6th cent Then the Danes, after
repeatedly plimdering it, took a
fancy to settling down here them-
selves, and earned on a somewhat
flourishing commeree until the Anglo-
Norm, invasion. At that time the
ruling power was in the hands of
Dermot McCarthy, Prince of Des-
mond, who promptly made submis-
sion to Henry IL on his arrival in
1172, and did him homage. Cork
took an active part in the disturbed
historv of the middle ages, at which
time it was described by Camden as
" a little trading town of great resort,
but so beset by rebellious neigh-
bours as to require as constant a
watch as if continually besieged." Its
most noticeable event was the siege
by William III.'s army under Marl-
borough and the Duke of Wurtem-
burg, when the garrison surrendered
after holding out 5 days.
Cork is well situated on Ihe
Lee —
**Tbe spreading Lee, that, like an Island
favTe
Encloseth Coike with his divided floode"—
Fabbt Queenk —
as it emerges fh)m a wooded and
romantic valley upon a considerable
extent of flat alluvial ground, in
its course over which it divides.
The island thus formed com-
mences about 1 m. above the town, is
enclosed by the N. and 8. channels
of tiie river, and contains the greater
portion of the city.
The N. or principal channel is
crossed by the Northgate and St.
Patrick's Bridges : the latter, which
<^nnect8 the principal thorough£Eu:e0
of the town, is a flne limestone bridge
of 3 elliptic arches, surmounted by a
balustrade. Crossing the S. channel
are Clarke's, Southgate, Parlianaent,
and Anglesey Brieves. The banks
of both channels are lined wilh
quays, which are more extensive in
Cork than any other city, except
Dublin. The s^^ets offer remarkable
contrasts : some of them, as the Mall
and the Grand Parade, are broad and
well buUt, whUe the generality a^e
irregular, narrow, and unclean. The
city is badly off for public ground,
although it possesses a flat melan-
choly-looking park running paralM
with the Lee, and offering very
little inducement for a promenade,
save the pretty view of the opposite
bank. There is, however, near the W.
entrance of the town, and between the
2 banks of the river, a very charmii^
walk called the Mardyke, of about
a mile in length, well sheltered by
trees, which form a natural aich
overhead, and which, whei\ the
lamps are lit at night, present an agree-
able and foreign appearance. Bq4
the suburbs of Cork are so pleasant
the^ the want of a good park is not
much felt. In the unprepossessing
S.W. district of the town was the
old cathedral of St Finbar, small
and very unlike what a cathedral
should be. With the exception o£
the tower, whieh was believed Uk
have formed part of the old ch., it
was a modern Doric building, with
a stumpy spire of white limestone.
The mode in which the funds were
raised for its erection is singular,
viz. by levying a tax on all the
coal imported for 5 years. Near
it is the episcopal pEdaee and a
cemetery, in which, according to
the Litany of St .^Ingus Killidens.
written in the 9th cent, 17 bishopa
and 700 holy people lie interred with
St. Nessan and St Bar. A new
cathedral is just approaching com-
pletion, from designs by Mr. Burgess,
who, having but a small sum of
mcHiey at his diqx)flBl, has been «t
Ireland. Bouie 87. — Corh — Public Buildings.
Ul
present obliged to dispense with the
towers. The arrangement in the ch.
is that of nave, cdsles, and transept,
together with an apsidal choir and
ambulatory, and will when finished
have an exceedingly good effect.
St. Anne's Shandon Ch. is re-
markable for its extraordinary many-
storied tower 120 ft. high, faced on
2 sides with red stone, and on the
others with limestone.
There is a very pretty Dec. Pres-
byterian ch. on the N. side of the
river, near the rly. stat. ; also a R. C.
chapel, with a singular cupola, the
comers of which are supported by
statues ; and a Perp. chapel in good
taste, opposite George's Quay.
The Queen's College is charmingly
situated at the W. of the town on an
elevation overlooking the Lee, and is
a really fine Tudor building, charac-
terized by Lord Macaulay " as worthy
to stand in the High street of Oxford."
It is built of carboniferous Umestone,
and occupies 3 sides of a triangle,
having the lecture-rooms on the W.,
the residences on the E., and the
hall and library on the N. This, in
common with Belfast and Galway, is
one of the Queen's Colleges founded
under an act passed in 1845, and
consists of a president, vice-presi-
dent, and 20 professors. From the
opening in 1849 up to 1860, 536
studente had matriculated.
The Court-house, situate in
George's st., possesses a remarkably
beautiful portico, "worthy of Pal-
ladio," consisting of 8 columns sup-
porting an entablature and cornice,
with a group representing Justice
between Law and Mercy.
Among the remaining public biuld-
ings are the Mansion House near
the Mardyke, the Cork Institution,
Liibrary, Club-house, the Lunatic
Asylum ; on the N. side of the Lee
the Barracks, Custom-house, &c.
Attached to the Imperial Hotel are
the City Rooms, to which all visitors
staying at the hotel are admitted.
Cork has always held a high posi-
tion in her contributors to the fine
arts and literature, amongst whom
may be mentioned Sheridan Knowles,
Dr. Maginn, Haynes Bayley, Crof-
ton Croker, and Hogan the sculptor.
A very large trade is carried on,
chiefly in provisions, grain, and
butter, which are exported to Bristo
and the Welsh ports, principally ia
return for coal. In the year 1859 a
total of 4410 vessels entered and
cleared out from the port, the value
of the exports in butter alone being
upwards of 101,000^. The portion of
the harbour from the city to Passage
has been considerably deepened^ so
that vessels of 600 tons can imload
at the quay, where there is a depth
of 7 ft. of water at low tide.
Conoeyances, — By rail per Gt.
Southern and West Rly. to Dublin;
rail to Youghal and Queenstown ;
r^il to Passage ; rail to Bandon and
Einsale. (The stations of the 2
former Unes are near each other on
the N. side of the river above Pen-
rose Quay, the 2 latter on the S.
side.) Car to Dungarvan daily.
Steamers to Queenstown several
times a day ; also to Aghada, Cross-
haven, and Ballinacurra ; to Bristol
and London twice a week ; to Cardiff
and Newport fdtemate weeks ; to
Waterford, Liverpool, and Glasgow
weekly ; to London weekly.
Distances. — Dublin, 1 66 m. ; Water*
ford, 113 by rail ; Limerick, 62 ; You-
ghal, 21 ; Queenstown, 10 ; Black-
rock, 2 ; Passage, 6 ; Middleton, 6 ;
Blarney, 5; Mallow, 20; Macroom,
23 ; Gt)ugane Barra, 41 ; Kinsale, 24 ;
Bandon, 20 ; Bristol, 262 ; Liverpool,
283 ; Plymouth, 275.
The tourist has plenty of choice of
excursions oflering from Cork. 1 . To
Blarney (Rte. 25) ; to Youghal (Rte.
28) ; to Queenstown by river, re-
turning by rail. Steamers leave the
moorings at St. Patrick's Bridge 9
or 10 times a day, doing the distance
in about an hour, and calling at
Passage. As £ax as Blackrock the
river runs in a straight course,
Q 3
S42
Boute 37. — Corl to Bantrp.
TrtELAin).
passinsT on 1. the Great Southern
and Western Bly. terminns, and the
steam- packet offices on Penrose Qnaj.
The high banks on this side, at the
foot of which run the Glanmire
road and the Tonghal Bly., are
charmingly wooded, and ornamented
with pleasant villas, the most im-
portant betwen Cork and Glanmire
being Tivoli (M. Cagney, Esq.), Fort
William, Lotamore (Lieut. - Od.
Beamish), Lota House (G. A. Wood,
Esq.).
On the S. side the eleyation is
not so great, nor are the banks so
close to the water, a large flat area
intervening, dignified by the name
of the Park. The Cork and Passage
line is a conspicuous feature here.
The principal residences are Clifton
CJ. Murphyi Esq.\ Sans Souci,
Temple Hill (W. J. Hoare, Esq.\ and
Dundanion (lately occupied by Sir
Thomas Deane.)
3 m. 1. the Glashaboy river enters
the Lee, amidst pretty groves and
parks running up to the suburban
villages of Glanmire and Rivers-
town. Nearly opposite this em-
bouchure is Blcuikrock Castle, a very
prominent feature in all the river
views. It is a modem castellated
building, placed at the end of a
jutting promontory, and consists of
a circular battlemented tower with
a smaller turret, in which a light
is burnt for the convenience of
shipping. In the old castle, which
was destroyed by fire in 1727, courts
of AdmiralW^ were held to preserve
the rights of the Corporation. On L
r*n are the woods of Dunkettle
Morris, Esq.), North Esk, and
Inchera House, the latter situated on
the Little Island, a considerable tract
separated from the mainland by a nar-
row tidal stream ; while overlooking
all these places is the Mathew
Tower, a round tower erected by Mr.
Connor to the memory of Father
Mathew, of temperance celebrity. It
is well worth making a pedestrian
excursion from Cork through Glan-
mire for the sake of the noble pano-
rama of the Qneensto¥m river.
As the Lee turns round the coroer
at Blackrock the shores sweep away
on either side, enclosing a magnifi-
cent sheet of water known as Lough
Mahon. On 1., at Ihe S. bank of
Little Island, there is a beau-
tiful pass up one of the branches,
separating it from Foaty Island, the
extremity of which is crossed by the
Queenstown Ely.
6 m. rt. Passage West, a pretty
village embosomed in woods, and a
considerable place of call both for
tourists and others bound up and
down the river. It is busy and
prosperous, and boasts a large
private dock and timber-yard, the
property of Mr. Brown —
*'The town of Passage is botli large and
spaciong,
And situate upon the say ;
Tis nate and dacent, and quite adjacent
To come fh>m Cork oa a summer's day.
There you may slip and take a dip in
Forenint the shipping that at anchor ride,
(^ in a wherry cross o'er tlie ferry
To Carrigaloe on the other side."
Loveb's Irish Ltbics.
Passing the Turkish Baths and
the water establishment of Carrig-
mahon, the next point of interest is
8 m.rt. Moriksloum, situated amongst
thick woods at the mouth of one of
the small pills that run into the
main estuary. Its principal ol]9ect
of interest is the castle, a quad-
rangular building flanked by square
towers, built in 1636 at the cost of a
groat. " Mrs. Anastasia Archdeckan,
while her husband was absent in a
foreign land, determined to afford him
an agreeable surprise by presenting
him, on his return, with a castie of
her own erection. Having engaged
workmen, she made an agreement
with them that they should purchase
food and clothing solely from herself.
The thrifty lady then laid in a good
stcNre of these necessaries, chai^ng
the workmen a commission on the
sales. When the edifice was oozo-
pleted, on balancing her amount of
Ireland,
Boute 37. — Queenstown — Clcyne,
343
receipts and expenditure, she found
that the latter exceeded the former
by 4 pence."— Cody. Probably this
is the first example on record of
track practice on a large scale.
The steamer now rounds the point,
and enters the magnificent harbour
of Queenstown, in former days known
as the Cove of Cork. " Tlie harbour
of Cork, pre-eminent for its capacity
and safely, is situate 11 m. below
the city : it is 3 m. long, 2 broad,
completely landlocked, and capable
of sheltering the whole British navy.
Its entrance is by a channel 2 m. long
and 1 broad, defended by batteries
on each side, and by others in the
interior." — Thom. The channel just
mentioned is between Rock's Point
and Ram's Head, both headlands
being guarded by a fort, on the
former that of Carlisle, and on the
latter that of Camden.
10 m. Queenstotmi (Hotel : Queen's,
an excellt nt establishment) extends
for some considerable distance along
the N. coast of the harbour, and,
from the improvements that have
taken place within the last few years,
is likely to rank high amongst the
southern watering-places. To the W.
of the town a splendid promenade is
furnished by the quay erected in
1848 by Lord Middleton. The great
dbarm of Queenstown is the noble
scenery of the harbour, with its
islands of Hawlbowline and Spike,
and the constant succession of
shipping that is provided by the
arrivals and departures of the Ameri-
can steamers and emigrant-si lips.
It is also a celebrated locality for
regattas. Immediately opposite the
town are — Hawlbowline Island, depdt
for ordnance and victualhng stores ;
Rocky Island, on whicli tliere are a
magazine and barracks; and Spike
Island, which contains the West-
moreland Fort and the convict
prison, numbering about 800 inmates,
who are chiefly employed in the
fortifications. The forts at the
entrance to the channel until lately
have been only nominally kept up,
but are now being restored to their
original defensive state.
A little to the N. of Ram's Head
is the fidhing village of Cross-
haven at the mouth of the Owenboy,
which runs inland in a considerable
stream as far as Cofrrigaline^ pic-
turesquely situated on high ground
overlooking the river. The ancient
fortress had the reputation during the
whole of Elizabeth's reign of being
impregnable. The ch. is a fine
Perp. building, with a pinnacled
tower and an octagonal spire rising
from it. It contains the monument
and leaden effigy of Lady Newen-
ham, who died 1754. In the neigh-
bourhood of the village are Kil-
money Abbey (M. Roberts, Esq.),
and Mount Rivers (Capt. Roberts) ;
and between it and Crosshaven, on
the N. bank, is Coolmore (Rev. E. H.
Newenham), and on the S. Agha-
marta (Standish O'Grady, Esq.), and
Hoddersfield. In the grounds of
the former is the ruined castle of
Aghamarta, a fortress of the Earla
of Desmond, overlooking a reach of
the river in which Sir Francis Drake
once took shelter when hard pressed
by some Spanish vessels.
On the eastern promontory (oppo-
site to Queenstown) are the villages
of Wliitegate and Aghada, adjoin-
ing which are Careystown (W. Hick-
son, Esq. ', Hadwill Lodge (Rev. R.
Austin), Aghada House (Sir J.
Thackwell, RosteUan Castle (for-
merly a seat of the Lords of Tho-
mond), in the grounds of which
is a cromlech within high-water
mark. To the S., near Roche's
Point, familiar to the readers of tele-
grams from America, are Trabolgan
(Lord Fermoy), and Roche's Mount
(Miss Roche). [Aghada is the near-
est place from whence to visit the
ancient cathedral town of
Cloyne^ 6 m. distant, which is
associated with Cork in its bishop-
ric. The cathedral, also used as tl>e
parish ch., is a plain cruciform build-
344
Bouie 37. — Cork to Bantry,
Ireland*
ing, dating from about the com-
mencement of the 14th cent. In the
interior are monuments to Bishops
Warburton and Woodward, and one
to the memory of a Miss Adams
with an inscription from the pen of
Mrs. Piozzi. In the ch. are remains
of a stone house, which tradition
says was built by St. Colman, the
founder of the abbey, in the 7th cent.
The most interesting building in
Gloyne is the round tower adjoining
the W. door of the cathedral. The
entire height is 102 ft., though from
this amount 10 ft. must be deducted
for its modem castellated top, which
was added after a considerable rent
had been produced by lightning,
and for the protection of the cathe-
dral bell, which hung in the upper
stage. The tower is remarkubly
cylindrical, and divided into 5 stages
or floors. The door is about 13 ft.
from the ground.]
[From Aghada the steamers con-
tinue their course up a wooded and
picturesque creek of the river to
Ballinacurra (Rte. 28), from whence
the tourist can walk or procure a car
to Middleton 1 m., and return to
Cork by rly.*].
The road from Cork to Macroom
leaves the western portion of the
town, keeping on 1. the college and
gaol, and on rt. the Mardyke wall,
Shanakiel House (F. R. Le^y,
Esq.), the Lunatic Asylum, and
Mount Desert (Nich. Dunsoombe,
Esq.), on the high bank overlooking
the Lee.
4 m., at the junction of the Blarney
river, is the restored castle of Car-
rigrohane, which, after serving as the
feudal fortress of the McCarthies,
and subsequently of the Barretts,
was the head-quarters of Capt. Cope
and daring band of brigands. From
this point a road is given off to Ma-
croom along the S. bank of the Lee,
passing through Ballincolhg.
At Carrigrohane the river is
* The line between Ouric and Macroom has
just been opened.
crossed just below the bend, where
there is the deep pool of Poul-an-
Iffi-in, fabled to be guarded by a
gigantic snake. On the opposite
side of the Aunbeg or Blarney river
are Busanna (Capt. Wt?bb), Kits-
borough, and Leeinont (S. Ooppin-
ger, Esq.) at the foot of a picturesque
wooded hill.
The road now keeps close to the
river, having on the opposite bank
the artillery barracks and the gun-
powder mills of Ballincollig, to 7 m.
1. Inishcarra Ch., found^ by S.
Senan, situated at the confluence of
the Bride, soon after which is the
Glebe House, and 8J m. rt. Ardrum,
the beautiful seat of Sir G. Colt-
hurst, Bart.
The scenery at Inishcarra, and
from thenoe to Ardrum, is some of
the most delightful that is to be
found on the Lee. The square kf^p
of Castle Inch ison the opposite bank ;
and further on are the remains of •
the ch. of Inishleena, or Inishluingn,
founded by the same holy man that
built Inishcarra. The road now
quits the liCe for a s|)ace, and runs
up the valley of the Dripsey river
to 13 m. the village of Dripsey. The
antiquary will find in this locality an
Ogham stone near St. Olave's Well.
The tourist is now fairly in the
district of Muskehy, whose moun-
tains, giving birth to the Lee and
many smaller southern streams, ap-
pear to the W. Running parallel, but
at some distance to the S. of the
road hitherto traversed from Cork,
are the Clara Hills, separating the
valley of the Lee from that of the
Bandon. In the neighbourhood of
Inchigeelali, however, they gradually
trend to the N., and unite with the
main ranges of Muskerry.
15 m. Coach ford village, and
on 1. Riversdale, and Leemount
House (T. H. Broderick, Esq.). The
road then crosses the GlashagariflT
stream, and passes rt. Oal^rove,
to Carrigadrohid, where theLee is
spanned by a bridge. In the middle
Ireland.
Sowte 37. — Macroom,
34S
of the river is a rock crowned with
the imn of Oarrigadrohid Castle,
and a most picturesque appearance
it has, reminding the tourist of some
of the castles of the Rhine or Mo-
selle. "Its site is said to have
been chosen by the lovely Una
O'Carroll, to gratify whose caprice
her lover Diarmld McCarthy raised
the castle in a marvellously brief
time on the cliff she had chosen,
where they both lived happily after
their nuptials." Carrigaarohid was
besieged in 1650 by L^rd Broghill,
who had captured the Bishop of
Boss at Macroom, and promised him
a pardon on the condition of his
persuading the garrison to give in.
The bishop ccmsented, but, on being
brought before the walls, fervently
exhorted them to hold out, for which
Eatriotic act he was then and there
ung. Indeed, it was only by strata-
gem that the English got hold of it
at all, viz. by drawing some heavy
timber up, which the garrison took
for cannon, and so surrendered.
There is an entrance to the castle
from the bridge (which, by the way,
was built by Cromweirs order) :
hence the name Bock of the Bridge.
On the opposite side of the stream
are Killinandrish (J. Hassett, Esq.),
and Nettleville (R. Nettles, Esq.).
The Lee now winds to the S., and
the road cuts off a great round, pass-
ing through Glencaum, one of the
most romantic and striking glens in
the district.
At 22 m. a small river called tho
Laney joins the Sullane, and near
the confluence is the solitary tower
of Mashanaglass Castle, built by
Owen MacSwiney, otherwise called
" Hoggy of Mashanaglass.*'
23 m. Macroom.
The 2nd route on the S. bank of
the Lee passes through Ballincollig,
the powder-mills of which lie at a safe
distance between the village and the
river. A little distance to the S. is
Ballincollig Castle, surrounded by
a^'bawn." This was a fortress of the
Barretts, temp. Edward Til. Pass-
ing Lisheen House (R. Donovan,
Esq.), and crossing the B»-ide, is the
village of Ovens, in the neighbour-
hood of which are a number of re-
markable caves, but little known
and seldom visited.
[At Elm Park a detour of a
mile should be made to the 1. to
visit the abbey ruins of Kilcrea,
very prettily situated at the end
of an avenue of trees on the banks
of the Bride, towards which the
Clara Hills gradually slope down.
It is a Franciscan Friary of the
15th century, founded by Cormac
McCarthy Laddin, Lord of Mns-
kerry, and consists of nave, choir,
and transepts, with a tower 80 ft.
high rising from the junction €i the
2 former. Separated from the nave
by 3 pointed arches is a side aisle,
which was divided in the same
manner from the transept. There
is very little ornamental detail, the
mullions of the windows having
been destroyed, according to tradi-
tion, by CromweU and his soldiers.
The interior contains the vault of
the McCarthys of Muskerry ; also
in the S. trans, the tomb of Herlihy,
Bishop of Ross, one of the 3 Lish
bishops who attended the Council of
Trent. A little to the W. of the
abbey is the keep of Kilcrea Castle,
where the McCarthys held their
rule. The traces of the bawn and
outworks are still visible.]
The road now passes Fanan Lodge,
Rye Court (Capt. Rye), near which
are the keep of Castlemore Castle,
Crookstown, Kilcondry, and Lissar-
dagh (W. Baldwin, Esq.), and leaving
Warren's Court (Sir A. Warren,
Bart.) to the U striking on the Lee
a little below the confluence of the
Sullane.
21 m. Coolcour House (W. Browne,
Esq.).
23 m. McuToom (Hotel: Queen's
Arms) is prettily situated in the
v^ey of the Sullane, an aflluent of
tke Lee, which rises some 10 m. to
346
Bottte 37. — Corh to Bardry.
Ireland.
the W. in the Derrynasaggart Moun-
tains, a range that intervenes between
this district and the Paps of Kil-
lamej. The town itself possesses no
very great object of interest except
the castle, a quadrangular keep,
said to have been erected in the
reign of King John. It has now
been modernized, and is the resi-
dence of the Hon. W. Hedges. It was
the scene of several sieges in the
17th cent., when it was burnt down
no less than 4 times. During one of
these struggles it was garrisoned by
the Bishop of Boss, tiie same who
was hanged by Lord Broghill before
the walls of Carrigadrohid. Admiral
Penn, the father of the Pennsyl-
vanian hero, is said to have been bom
within Macroom Castle. The B. C.
chapel, fix)m its situation on an
eminence to the S. of the town, is a
conspicuous feature. Amongst the
seats in the neighbourhood are
Mount Hedges (Col. Hon. W.
Hedges), Bockborough (H. Browne,
Esq.), Baleigh House (E. J. Leahy,
Esq.), Ashgrove (T. Leader, Esq.),
and Codrum (A. Orpen, Esq.), all in
the valley of the Sullane, and near
the road to Killamey.
Distances. — Killamey, by Ken-
mare, 50 m. ; Cork, 23 ; Bantry, 34 ;
Keimaneigh, 18 ; Inchageeledi, 9 ;
Gougane Barra, 19 ; Kenmare,^31 ;
Carrigaphuca, 3.
Excursiohs. —
1. Inchageelah*
2. Carrigaphuca.
3. Dripsey.
4. Kilcrea.
[The direct road fix)m Macroom to
Blillamey follows up the valley of
the Sullane, keeping the Boggeragh
Mountains to the rt., and passing
3 m. near the confluence of the
Finnow, the square keep of Carriga-
phuca Castle, another of the many
fortresses of the McCarthys. At
13 m. the village of Ballyvoumey,
the road strikes right into the heart
of the Derrynasaggart Mountain^,
about 1500 ft. in height, and then
descends somewhat into the valley
of the Flesk, which it crosses at
Poulgorm Bridge. From this point
the tourist keeps company with the
Flesk, which, as seen in Bte. 31,
leaves the hills through a gap be-
tween the Paps and Croghan.] The
remainder of the distance from Ma-
croom to Bantry 34 m. is through
some of the finest and wildest scenery
in the S. of Ireland, and care should
be taken that the car and horse be
good, as there is Httle chance of a
relay anywhere on the road, which
leaves the valley of the Sullane, and
rejoins the Lee at Toom Bridge,
from whence a visit can be paid to
the • tower of Dundareirke Castle.
The Lee has quite a different cha-
racter here from what it has lower
down, as it flows for a considerable
distance through a morass, the effect
of which is to divert its stream and
form a number of sedgy islets.
A little before arriving at 32 m.
the village of Inchageelah, is on 1.
the tower of Carrynacurra, or Castle
Masters, rising upon a finely escarped
cliff above the river. It belonged in.
the times of the " troubles of '4rl "
to the O'Learys, a sept only second
to the McCarthys, to whom, indeed,
they were subject. Inchageelah
{Inn: Brophys; a good locality for
the angler) is situated near the E. end
of Lough Allua, a winding enlarge-
ment of the Lee, of about 3 m. in
length, along the northern shore of
which the Bantry road keeps to the
village of Bealnageary. At the W,
end of Lough Allua is a mountain
with the sad though poetic name of
Coolnegreenane, " the mountain un-
known to the sunbeam." To the S. of
Lough Allua are the Sheehy Hills,
1796 ft., which intervene between
the valley of the Lee and the Bandon
at Dunmanway.
^ m. from Bealnageary, where the
small and picturesque stream of the
Bunsheelin flows in, the Lee is
crossed by the 1st bridge on its
course, and the mountains which
Ireland,
Boute 37. — Cork to Bantry.
347
encircle the mystic lake of Gk>ugane
Barra begin to show their pre-
cipitous and gully-riven sides. At
41 m. rt. a short road leads to the
lake from whence the Lee has
its source. Gougane Barra, **the
Gurgling Head," is a small and
deep tarn, almost entirely sur-
rounded by mural precipices, save
on the E. side, where a narrow outlet
permits the infant Lee to emerge.
The cliffs on either side rise
directly from the banks of the lake,
casting deep shadows over its waters,
and adding greatly to the solemnity
with whiwi the locality is invested
from its association with the holy
St. Finbar, who built on the island
an oratory still held in great venera-
tion. The origin of his retreat here
was as follows : " St. Patrick, after
banishing the reptiles out of the
country, overlooked one hideous
monster, a winged dragon, which
desolated the adjacent country, and
power was conferred on a holy man,
named Fineen Bar, to drown the
monster in Gougane Lake, on con-
dition of erecting a ch. where its
waters met the tide ; and the saint,
having exterminated the monster,
fulfilled the agreement by founding
the present cathedral of Cork." The
buildings on the island are rude and
primitive, and consist of some cells,
together with a portioli of the chapel
and oratory, the former being about
36 ft. long by 14 broad. On a cause-
way at the S. of the lake is a small
cemetery, held in great repute from
its close companionship with the
remains of the saint. Lnmediately
above Gougane Barra the mountains
rise up to a height of 1700 or 1800 ft.,
the principal summits being Oonicar,
1886 ft., and Foilastookeen, on the
S. ; Nadan-viller, " the Eagle's Nest,"
on the W. ; from any one of which is
a magnificent view of the Killamey
Mountains to the N., Bantry Bay
and Glengarriff to the S. W., with the
sterner featiu*es of the Pass of Kei-
maneigh and the lake close at hand.
Turning suddenly to the S., the
road enters a magnificent gap in
the Sheehy Moimteins, known as
the Pass of Keimaneigh, " the Path
of the Deer"—
" Where the severed rodu resemble flragments
of a fix>zen sea,
And the wild deer flee**— M'CAKrHT—
one of the finest and most savage of
the ravines in the S. of Ireland. It is
about 1 m. in length, and is bounded
on each side by precipitous walls of
rock, in the rifts and crevices of
which ferns, heaths, and wild flowers
find a congenial home. The London
Pride is peculieirly abundant and fine
in this locality.
At the head of the pass, between
Conicar rt. and Doughill 1., is the
watershed of the streams running N.
to the valley of the Lee, and those,
like the Owvane, which flow to the
sea at Bantry Bay.
Down this valley it is a rapid
descent, during whicn many beautiful
views of the hiy open out. At Bal-
lylickey, vwhere the Owvane enters
the sea, the Glengarriff road is joined,
and from thence it is 3} m. to Bantry
(Rte. 36;.
IlffDEX*
( 349 )
INDEX.
ABBE7FEALE.
A.
Abbeyfeale, J02.
Abbejlara, 147.
Abbey Knockmoy, J14.
Abbey Morne. 161, 2^8.
Abbeyside, 261.
Achill Head, 195.
L, 195.
Sound, loy.
Adare, 297 ; abbeys, 298.
Adragoole, 189.
Adrigoole, Waterf., 5J9.
Affane, 267.
Aghada, j^j.
Agbadoe, 28J.
Aghamarta C, }^J.
Agriculture of Ireland, xxxvL
Ahadoe, 265.
Aherlow, 271.
Allibies Mines, JJ9.
Anagarry, 9a
Anaghmore, 64.
Anascaul, J05.
Angllbam, 17}.
Anglo-Norman remains, lii.
AnnadufT, 155.
Annagbdown, 181.
Annalong, 41.
Annamoe, 21 j, 218.
Antiquities, xlvi; table of,
liii.
Antrim, 104.
Araglin B., 270.
Aran I., 91, 170.
Ard C^ 180.
Ardbo, 104.
Ards H., 97.
Ardamine, 202.
Ardara,9J.
Ardee, jo.
Ardfert, 306.
ArdQnane, 274.
ALTdglass, 43.
Ardmayle, 2}o.
Ardmore, 262.
Ardnaglaiw C, 199.
Ardkeen, 53.
Ardpatrlck, 2}6.
[Ireland.']
BALDAN6AN.
Ardrahan, 314.
ArdsoUus, 310.
Arklow, 202.
Arkyne, C, 171.
Armagh, history and situa-
tion, 150; cathedral, anti-
quities, 151 ; manufacture,
152.
Armer's Hole, 41.
Armoy, 113.
Arrigal Mount, 89.
Artane, 19.
Artramon C, 205.
Ashford, 212.
Ashlee, 191.
Askeaton, 299.
Asselyn, 157.
Assey C, ij6.
Athassel, 2n|.
Athboy, 140.
Athcame C., 142.
Athclare, jo.
Athenry, 128,314.
Athgor, 220.
Athlone, 124; siege, X24;
barracks, railway bridge,
125.
to I4merick, 317.
to Roscommon, 158.
Athlumney C, 136.
Athy, 239.
Ayoca, 202.
Avonmore, 215.
Auburn, 126.
Audley, C, 44.
Aughagower, 187.
Aughnanure C 176.
Aughrim, 127.
R, 214.
Awbeg R., 269.
Ayle R., 187.
B.
Bagenalstown, 24;.
Baily Lighthouse, 20.
Balbrlggan, 24.
Baldangan C, 24.
BALLTLICKEY.
Baldoyle, 19.
Balla, 198.
Ballina, 161.
BalUnacurra, 265.
Ballinafad, 1^7.
Ballinamallard, 62.
Ballinasliie, 126.
Ballincolllg, 34;.
Ballinderry, 124.
Balllndrait, 86.
Ballinglen, 162.
Ballinhassig, 331.
Balllnrobe, 185.
Ballinspittle, 332.
Ballintobber A., 186.
Ballintogher, 158.
Ballintoy, no.
Ballintra, 77.
Ballitore, 241.
Ballybay. 55.
Ballybeg, 144.
Ballybofey. 8a
Ballybogan, 131.
Ballybrittas, 225.
Ballybrophy, 227.
Ballybunion, 302.
Ballycanew, 203.
Ballycarbery, 326.
Ballycarry, 117.
Ballycastle, in, 162.
Ballyconnell, 98.
Ballycorus, 201.
Ballycroy, 194.
Bally cuirke, lake, 17$.
Ballydehob, 336.
Ballyduff, 260, jo2.
Ballygalley Head, 115.
Ballygannon, 201.
Ballygarth. 25.
Ballygawley, 63.
Ballyglunln, 314*
Ballyhale, 250.
Ballyhaise, 149.
Ballyhinch, 248.
Ballyhooly, 209.
BallyjamesduH, 147.
Ballykeeran, 126.
Ballykelly, 99.
Ballylickey, 347.
U
350
INDEX.
BALLTLIFFIN.
BURTON.
CARTON.
B&UyUffin, 69.
Beltrim C, 6y.
Bushmills, 107.
Ballyloughan C.» 241. ]
Belturbet, 149.
Butler's Bridge, 149.
Ballymahon, 126.
Ben-agblan Mount, 60.
Butler's C, 272.
Ballymena, 102.
Benbulben, 74.
Butler's Lodge, 177.
Ballymoe, 160.
Benburb C 64.
Buttevant, 237.
Ballymoney, 102.
Bengorm Mount, 190.
Ballymoon C., 24).
Ben levy Mount, 184.
C.
Ballymore Eustace, 221.
Benlettery Mount, 178.
Ballymote, 158.
Bennett's Bridge, 248.
Cabinteely, 200.
Baliymurry, 159.
Benyevenagh, loi.
Gaheroonlish, 272.
Ballymnrtagh, 214.
Beragh, 6^.
Caherdaniel, 329.
Ballynacarrig C^ j$j.
Betaghstown, 25.
Cablr. 273.
Ballynahatna, 31.
Bilboa, 242.
Cahirbamagh, 279.
Ballynahincb, 46, 179.
Binghamstown, i6j.
Cahirclveen, 326.
Baltynakill. x88.
Birchfield, 312.
Galedon, 150.
Ballynatray, 266.
Birr, 252.
Callan, 247.
Ballyneen, jjj.
Bishop's I., joi.
Camarosa Hill, 254.
Ballyportry C, ?ii.
Blackrock C, ^42.
Camolin, 203.
Ballysadare, 158.
Blackwater R., 64, 14;, 185,
Cannistown, 136.
Ballyshannon, ^6.
2j8, 266, i3o.
Cappanalaura, 177.
Ballytrent, 207.
Blackwatertown, 64.
Cappoquin, 267.
Ballyvoumey, J46.
Blanchardstown, 119.
Carberry, 129.
Ballyvoy, 114.
Blarney, tjS.
Carhan, 326.
Ballywillan, 147.
Blasket I., 304.
Garllngford, 39; CMtle and
Ballywilliam, 255.
Bloody Bridge, 41.
oysters, 39.
Balrothery, 24.
Baltimore, jio.
Bog of Allen, 225.
— - Mount, 40.
Bober, 272.
Garlow, 241.
Banagher, loo^ j20.
Bonamargy A., m*
Gamcastle, 11;.
Banbridge, 35.
Bonet R., 61, 71.
Cam Cochy, 3$.
Bandon, at.
Borris, 24J.
Camdonagh, 69.
Banecloon, 324.
B. In Ossory, 25 1.
Camdoo, 116.
Bangor, 54.
Borrisoleigh, 228.
Carney, 74.
Bann R., i$, 102, 2oj.
Bovevagh, 100.
Boyle, 150.
Camgaver H, 52.
Bannow, 260.
Camlough, 115.
BanRha, 271.
Boyne R., ijo.
Camowry Gap, 101.
Banteer, 278.
battle of, 141.
Carra Bridge, 325.
Bantry, 1J7.
Brandon Hill, 250, 256.
Carrabeg, 125.
Bargy, 207.
Moimt, 30}.
Carrantuohill, 291.
Barna, 170.
Bray, 209.
Carrick, 83.
Bamageera, 24.
Brey Head, 327.
Hill, 130.
Barnesmore Gap, 79.
Brinny, 332.
Carrlckabraby C, 69.
Baronstown, in-
Brlttas C, 228.
Carrlckarede. no.
Barrow R., 224, 242, 250.
Britway, 268.
Carrickbroad river, 32.
Bautregarm Mount, joj.
Broadstone, 102.
Carrickbum, 294.
Beagh, 296.
Brookeborough. 57.
Carrlckfergus, 117.
Bealderrig. 162.
Bromsford, 250.
Carrickhugh, 99.
Bealnabrack R., 190.
Brosna, 252.
Carrickmacross, $5.
Bealnageary, J46.
Brown's Bay, 116.
Carrickmlnes, 200.
Bear I.^ }J9.
Bruce'sCast, 112.
Carrickmore, 63.
Bearhaven ooppermines, j J9.
Bruckless. 82.
Carrick-on-^annon, 155.
Beaufort Dr., 284.
Bruff, 2j6.
Carrick-on-Sulr, 276.
Beauparc, 143.
Bnigh-na-boinne, ij8.
Carrlg-a-drohid C, 345.
Bective, 134.
Bnuree, 297.
Carrig-a-gunnel C, 300.
Beecbmount, jj2.
Bryansfoni, 42.
Oarrigaline, 343.
Belcoo, 61.
Bullock's C, 207.
Carriganoss, 337.
Belfast, 47; trade, harbottr,
Bunahurra, 195.
Carrigans. 65.
bridges, buildings, 48 ;
Buncrana, 69.
Carrlg-a-phuca C, 346.
churches, flax-niiUs, steam-
Bundoran, 75:.
Carrlgboy, 337.
ers, 49.
to Donagbadee, 47.
Bundnff Bridge, 75.
Carrighooley, 194.
Bunlin Br., 9$.
Carrlguiahon, 342.
Bellarena, 101.
Bunnabeola, 178.
Carrig-na-Nahin, 2j6.
Belleek, 59.
Bunratty, 310.
Carrigrohane C, 344.
Belmullet, i6j.
Burial I., 5;.
Carrigtuohill, 265.
Beltany. 86.
Bnrrishoole. 194.
Carrowkeel, 'p. '
Beltoy, 116.
Burton Port, 91.
Carton, 122.
INDEX.
351
CASHEL.
Caahel, histoiy, 2jo; cathe-
dral, 2ii; Grey Abbey, 2i2;
Priory, 23 j.
Cashla fi., 1*70.
Castles, m.
Castlebar, 198.
Castleba^t, 2j8.
Castlebellinghain, 30.
Castle Bernard, 333.
Gastleblayney, 55.
Castlebridge, 203.
Castle Caulfield. 63.
Castlecoroer, 242.
Castle Connell, 324.
Castle Coole, 57.
GasUe Coote, 160.
Castle Dawson, loj.
CasUederg, 65.
Castledermot, 241.
Gastledexter, 1J7.
Castle Dillon, 152.
Castle Donovan, 334.
Castleflnn, 80.
Castle Gregory, jo?.
Castle Howard. 213.
Castle Inch, 344.
Castle Island, 295.
Castleknock, 119.
Castlemaiue, 32$.
Castlemartyr, 26;.
Castle Masters, J46.
Castle Oliver Mountains, 236.
Castle Pollard, 15^.
Castlereagh, 50, 160.
Castleton, 22'7.
Castleton Bearhaven, 33^
Castletown H^ ji, 12a
Castletown. 124.
Castletown Bo<^e, 269.
Castletownsend, 33$.
Costlewellan, 42.
Castle Widenbam, 269.
Castleyard, 272.
Cavan, 148.
Cave Hill, 49.
CeaunGubba, 116.
Gecilstown, 278.
Celbridge, 121, 220.
Cbair of Kildare, 224.
Cbapel Izod, 16, 22a
Charlemont, 64.
Charleville, 2j6.
Cbeek Point, 259.
Churches, Irish, 11.
Church Hill, 59.
Church I., 73, J 2 7.
ChurcBtown, 259, 324.
Claddagh river, 60.
Clady 80; Bridge, 99.
Clady Church, 136.
Clandeboye, 54.
Qaoe, 221.
Claamddery Mountains, J02.
Clara, 226.
— Bridge, 215.
coppinqeb's.
Clare A., jix.
C, jii.
Clar^alway, 181.
Clare Island, 192, 197.
Clashmore, 267. -
Classylaun, 7$.
Claven*8 Bridge, 146.
Clear I., 336,
Clew K, 192.
Clifden, 187.
to Sligo^ 187.
CliflTony, 75.
Clobemon, 20}.
Clogh-a-Stucan, 114.
Clogheen, 271.
Glogber, 62.
Cloi^er Head, 30.
Ologbreon, 289.
Ologhrenan, 242.
Olonakilty, 33^.
Clonard, iji.
Clones, 56.
Glonooskoran, 261.
Cloncurry, 122.
Clondalldn, 17, 220.
Glonfert, 320.
Clongpowes, 221.
Clonmachnois, J17 ; wven
churches, J17 ; round
towers, 318; crosses, in-
scribed stones, castle, geo-
logy, ?i9.
Clonmel, 275.
Clonmines, 26a
Clonsilla, 119.
Clontarf, 17.
Clough, 4J.
Cloughmore. 40.
Cloyne, ui.
Glydagh H., 174.
Coachford, 344.
Colebrooke, 57.
Coleraine, loi.
to Belfast, 106.
Colin Glen, 50.
Oolligan. 262.
Collooney, 158.
Comber, 51.
Conuneragh Mountains, 261.
Cong, 182; archaeological re-
mains, caverns, 183 ; canal,
184.
Confey Cn 120.
Conna, 268.
Connemara, 170.
Connor Mnts., 304.
Convoy, 86.
Cookstown, 103.
Coolmore, 77.
Coolnamu(^ 276.
Goolnegreenane, 346.
Coombola K., 338.
Gootehlll. <5.
Copper Mines, 214.
Oopplnger's Court, 33I.
DEERANE.
Gorcomroe Abbey, 3x4-
Cores Cascade, 291.
Cork, 339; history, situation,
description, cathedrals, 340 ;
buiidingSk trade, excursions,
to Eenmare. 331.
to Bantry, 339.
Gorrigan Hea<^ 83.
Oorrofin, 313*
Cottage IsL, 73*
Oourtmacsherry, 334.
Gourtown H., 202.
Cove, 329.
Craigmore, 33.
Cratloe, 310.
Creeslough, 97.
Cregg. 312.
C, 181.
Cregganro^ 194.
Crevelea, 73.
Croagh Patrick, 192.
Cr(^ban, 13 1> 160, 196.
Croghan Kinshela, 214.
Crom Castle, 56.
Cromlechs, xlvL
Cromwell's Bridge, 338.
Grookhaven, 337.
Groom, 297.
Crossbarry, 331.
Grossdoney, 148.
Grosses, liL
Crossgar, 46.
Crosshaven, 343.
Crossbill, iii.
Crossmaglen, 99.
Crossmolina, 199.
Grown Bridge, 34.
Groy Lodge. 194.
Grumlin, 16.
Crusheen, 313.
Guilcagh, 60.
Guldaff, 70.
Gulloville, 55.
Guhnore, 99.
Gultra, 54.
Cummeendnff, 282, 285.
Curlew Hills, 157.
Gurragh, 222.
Gurragh Chase, 298.
Gurraghmore, 277.
Gurraun, 115, 195.
Gushendall. 114.
Cushendun, 114.
D.
Dalkey I., 208.
Dane's Cast., 35'
Dangan G, I34< i^^-
Danganstown G, 202.
Dargle, 21a
Dartrey, JJ.
Deel R., 86^ 199, 296.
Deerane, 160.
R 2
352
INDEX.
DELQANY.
Delgany. loi, 212.
Delphi, 191.
Deputy's Pus, 202.
Deraddla, 179.
Derrictmiby cascade, 291.
Deny, 65.
Derrybawn, 215.
Derrycame, 155.
Derryclare, l^9.
Derryconib, i6j.
Derryloran, 104.
Derrynasaggart Mountains,
Derrynane, J29.
Deny veagh, 88.
Devenish 1., 58.
Devil's Bit, 227.
Devil's Glen, 21J.
Dbuega, 197.
Dlamund Hill, 189.
Dingle, J04.
Bay, J 2 J.
— Promontory, joj.
Dinish L, 287.
Duagh,o5.
Dodder R, 20a
Doe C., 97.
Donabate, 2j.
Donaghadee, 54.
Donagbmore, 6i, 80, 137.
Donaghpatrlck, 144.
Donegal, 78 ; castle and abbey,
Doneraile. 217.
Donny brook, 16.
Donore, 112, 140.
Doocbarry Br^ 91.
Dooega, 196.
Doogurth, 196.
DoobuUa, 1 8a
Doolin, 112.
Doon, 188, J02.
— — Point, 112.
Douce Mount, 21X.
Down Hill, loi.
Downpatrick, 45.
Rath of, 46.
Dowtb. 140.
Drimnagh G., 16.
Drimoleague, 354.
Dripsey. ^44.
Drlshane C., 279.
Drogheda, town and harbour,
25; commerce, walls and
gates, abbeys, 26; history,
excursions, 27.
— — to Gavan, 142.
Dromahalre, 73.
Dromana, 267.
Dromaneen, 278.
Drominkin, |o.
Dromkeen, 272.
Dromore, i7, 62, 199, jjo.
Drowes river, 75.
Drulb Mor, }^,
DUNGLOW.
Dnunbani^er, i^.
Drumbo, 50.
Drumclif^ 74.
Drumlish, 155.
Drumman Bridge, 87.
Drumnasole, 114.
Drummail, 114.
Drumod, 155.
Drumsi^40.
Drumsna, 155.
Dubb Gahir, 171.
Cathair, 172.
Ddblik: situation, j; ho-
tels, street conveyances, 4 ;
bridges, 4, 5; onays, 5;
docks, canals, railway sta-
tions. Bank of Ireland, 6;
Post-office, Gustom-house,
Exchange, 7; Four Gourts,
Gastle. 8; Trinity CoUege,
9; Library and Museum,
10 ; Roman Gatholic Uni-
versi^, statues. 10; Royal
Dublin Society. Royal Irish
Academy, Museum of Irish
Industry, Irish National
GaUeiy, St Patrick's Li-
brary, Christ Ghurch Ga-
thedral, 11; St. Patrick's
Cathedral, 12; chnrches,
R. C. chapels, 14; Phoenix
Park, 14; Zoological Gar-
dens, Rotunda, other Insti-
tutions, 15; suburbs, 16;
conveyances, history, 18.
to Arklow, 207.
to Carlow, 239.
to Cork, 219.
to Dundalk, 19.
to Wexford, 199.
Duflf river, 75.
Duleek, 142.
Duna, 191;.
Dunally, 69.
Dunamon, 163.
Dunamase, 226.
Dunass Head, 69.
Dunbrody, 256. u
Duncannon, 259.
Duncarbry, 75.
Dun Connor, 17J.
Duncrue, 118.
Dundalk, 30.
to Belfiist, JO.
to Gal way, 119.
to Sligo, 54.
Dundarave, 107.
Dundareirke C, 346.
Dundonald, $1,
Dundrum, 43, 200^ 2JJ.
Dunfanaghy, 97.
Dungannon, 6j.
Dungarvan, 261.
I.>ungiven, loa
Dimglow, 91.
FARRENHACWILLIAJI.
DnnUneely, 82.
Dunkitt, 250, 277.
Dunleer, 30.
Dunlewy, 89.
Dunloe, 284.
Dunloy, 102.
Dunlnoe, 107.
Dunmanway, 334.
Dunmoe, 117.
Dunmore. 143, 247, 260, 316.
Dunmuny, 3B.
Dun-na-gedh, 140.
Dnn-iE2ngus, 172.
Dun-Onaght, 172.
Dunran Glen, 212.
Dunree Head, 69.
Dunseverick, iia
Dunsink Observatory, 17.
Dusoin Glen, 265.
Dysart, 297.
Dyaert, ju.j
Eagle's Nest. 286.
Easky R., 199.
Eden, 117.
Edendeny, 129.
to Drogheda, 129.
Edgeworthstown, 154.
EgUnton, 99.
Elphin, 316.
Ely Lodge, 59-
Rmania, 151.
Emly, 234.
Emo. 224.
Enfield. 122.
Ennls, jii.
Enniscorthy, 204.
Enniskeen, 333-
Enniskerry, 211.
Ennlskillen, 57.
to Derby, 61.
to Killybegs, 80.
Ennis^mon, 312.
Eme K, 57, 76.
Errew, 199.
Errls, 162.
Errislannin, 189.
Errive R., 191.
Esk Valley, 79.
Elyreoourtk 254.
Fahan, J04.
Fairhead, ill, iij.
Fairy Water Bridge, 64.
Falcarragh. 98.
Fanet Head, 95.
Farranfore, 295.
FarrenmacwlUiam, 32$.
INDEX.
353
FASSABOE.
Fassaroe. 2ia
FanghalBtown, 15J.
Faughart, 31.
Feltrim, 22.
Fenuor, ij8.
Fergus K. 296, jir.
Fermoy, 269.
Ferns, 2oj.
Femsboroogh, 147.
Femslock, 122.
Ferrltor's Cove, J04.
Ferrybank, 257.
Fethard, 276.
Fiddown, 277.
Finglas, 17.
Finn R, 65.
Valley, 80.
Finn's Fingerstone, 41.
Fintona, 62.
Flntown, 80.
Fintragh, 8j.
Firmount, 154.
Five Mile Town, 62.
Flax, cultivation of, zxxiv.
Flesk C^ 279.
Florence Court, 60.
Flynn's, 177.
Fore, 153.
Forth barony and mountains,
206, 254.
Fort Stewart, 94.
Foxford, 161.
Foyle R, 65.
Foynes, 296, 299.
Frenchpark, jio.
Freshford, 251.
Furbo, 170.
G.
GalbftUy, 234.
Oalty Mountains, 2jj, 273.
G^allerus' Orat., 305.
Gal way, hist 017, 164; situa-
tion and description, 169;
antiquities, church of St.
I^icholas, J 66; buildings,
harlwur, 167; fishery, 168;
suburbs, 169.
to Clifden. 164.
to Westport, 180.
Oal way's Ford, 291.
Gap of Dunloe, 284.
Garbally, 121.
Gariuisb, no.
Garrison, 59, 76.
Garromin, 177.
Garron Tower, 114.
Gazabo Hill, 277.
Geashill, 225.
Geology of Ireland, xxiv.
Giant's Causeway, 108.
Ring, 51.
Gilford, 35.
QREENCASTLE.
Glanleam, J27.
Glanworth, 270.
Glanmire, 342.
Glasnevin, 17.
GLassan, 126.
Glasslough, 149.
Glen of the Downs, 212.
Glena, 287.
61en-a-Cappul, 290.
Glenaghaun, 173.
Glenalla Mountains, 88.
Glenariff, 114.
Glenarm, 115.
Glenbay, 32$.
Glencaum, 345.
Glencar, 74.
Glencastle, 16;.
Gleucolumb, 84.
Glendalough, domain of, 177.
vale of, 215.
city, its founder, 216;
cathedral, church of Our
Lady, Round Tower, St.
, Kevin's Cell, 216; Trinity
church, the monastery,
church of Reefert, 217.
Glendasan, 215.
Glendowan, 88.
Gleudruld, 200.
Glendun R., 114.
Glenealy, 202.
Glenfam, 61.
Glengard Head, 69.
Glengarlff, 338.
Glengeask, 93.
Glen Lough, 96.
Glenmore, 257.
Glenoe, 116.
Glenshesk R., iii.
Glenties, 92.
Glin C, 299.
Glossary of Irish words, Ixix.
Glyde R., 30.
Glynn, 116.
Gobbins, 116.
Gobhan'sC, 1 11, 113.
Gold Mines, 214.
R., 214.
Goold's Cross, 230.
Goragh Wood, 33.
Gorey, 202.
Gormanstown, 25.
Gort, 313.
Gortin, 6j.
Gorunma Island, 1 70.
Gougane Barra, 347.
Gowran, 244.
Grace Hill, 102.
Grague. 242.
Graiguemanagh, 256.
Granard, 148.
Grand Canal, 220.
Grange, 75.
Great Connell Priory, 222.
GreencasUe, 41, 70, 106.
INISHBOFIN.
Greenore, 40.
Grenan C, 248.
Grey Abbey, 52, 232.
Greystones, 201.
Grianan, 68.
Groomsport, 54.
Guns L, 44.
Gurteen, 276.
Gweebarra R., 91 ►
Gweedore, 89.
Hag's Castle, i7f.
Gleu, 292.
Handcross, 312.
Hare I., 126.
Hawlbowline I., 343.
Hazelhatch, 220.
Hazelwood, 72.
Headford, 181.
C, 181.
Headfort, 146, 279.
Hearnesbrook, 294.
Hen's Castle, 184.
HighL, 188.
Hill, Lord George, his im-
provements at Gweedore,
89.
Hill of Down, 122.
Hillsborough, 37.
Hilltown, 41.
Holly brook, 212.
HoUymount, 186.
Hollywood, 51.
Holycross, 228.
Holyhead to Kingstown and
Dublin, 2.
Hook Pt, 259.
Hospital. 234.
Horse's Discovery, 184.
How til, 19 ; Harbour, Abbey,
Castle, 2c.
HiU, 21.
Hy Brisail, 197.
I.
lar Connaugbt, 170, 175.
Illanmore, L, 321.
ImoklUy C., 265.
Inch C 46, 240.
Inchageela, 346.
Inch-a-goill, 175.
Inchicore, 220.
Inchmore, 247.
Inchlquln, 313.
Indusirial resources of Ire-
land, xxxlv.
Inishannon, 333.
Inishark, 189.
Inishbofin, 189.
354
INDEX.
INIBHOARRA.
InlsbauTa, 344.
Inisbeer, 17^.
Inifhfallen, 288.
Inisbgloria, 197.
InisbkeeU 92.
Inishleena, 344.
Inishmaan, 173, i86w
Inishmacsalnt, 76.
Inidunurray, 75.
Inishowen, 68.
loishtrahull, 69.
Iniskeen, 55, 197.
InoiscalUira, 322.
Innlstiogue, 250.
lover, 82.
Ireland's E^e, ii.
IsL Mage^ 1x7.
J.
Jamestown, 15$.
Jenkinstown, 247.
Jerpoint, 249.
Johnstown, 206, 251.
JonesbozoniKb, 32.
E.
Eantnrk, 278.
Keady, 152.
Keel, 196.
Keem, 196.
Keeper Monntain, 323.
Keiraaneigh, ^47.
Kells, 144, 247, 326.
Kempe Stones, 51.
Kenbane, iii.
Kenmare, jjo.
Kesh, 81.
Kesh Corrin, 157.
Kilbarrock, 19.
Kilbarron C., 77.
Kilberry, 240.
Kilbride, 175.
Kilbroney, 41.
Kilcar, 8j.
Kilcam, ij6.
KilcliefC, 44.
Kilcock, 122.
Kllooleman, ^25.
Kllcolgan, J14.
Kllcohnan, 2j8.
Kllcommodon, 127.
Kllconnell, 127.
Kilcoole, 201.
Kilcrea, J4f.
Kilcullen, 222.
Kilcummin, 162.
Kildare, 22j.
Kildaunat, 197.
Kllfenora, 312.
Kllflnane, 2j6.
Kilgobbin, 200.
KILSUEELA.
Kllkea, 240.
Kilkee, 301.
Kilkeel, 41.
KilkeUy, 160.
Kilkenny, history, oasUe, oa«
tiiedral, 244; monastery,
245 ; abb^, diurdiet, col-
leges, 246.
to Athennr, 251.
KiUadysert, 296.
Killakee, 215.
Killala, 162.
Killaloe, 32h
Killamery, 276.
KiUan, 129.
Killarney, hotels, 279; beg-
gars, guides, 280; the Lake,
281 ; lake islands, 282; Ex-
cursions, 281-292; geology
of the district, 293 ; botany,
294; fishing, legends, 295.
— — to Kemnare, 324.
Killary, 19a
Killasnet. 75.
Killawillin. 270.
Killeagh, 265.
Killeany, 171.
Killeary, 32.
KlUeen, 181.
Killenagh, 203.
KUleshin. 242.
KlUester, 19.
Killimor, 254.
KiUiney, 208.
Killonan, 272.
KiUone, 311.
Killoiigb, 4i.
Killoughter, 201.
KillorgUn, 124
Klllucan, 122.
Kllluspugbrone, 72.
KiUybegs. 82.
Killydonnell, 94.
Klllygordon, 80.
Killyleagh, 47.
Killyon, 132.
Kilmacduagh, 313.
Kilmacow, 250.
Kilmacrenan, 87.
Kilmacthomas, 261.
Ktlmaine, 185.
Kilmalkedar, 305.
Kilmallock, 234.
Kilmaloda, JJ4
Kilmore, 148.
Kilmurry, 212.
Kllmurvey, 172.
Kilnaleck, 147.
Kilnasaggart, J2.
Kilree, 248.
Kilronan, 171.
Kilroot, 117.
Kilmddery, 209.
Kllrush, 30a
Kilsbeela, 276.
LINFIELD.
Kilteel, 220.
Kilteman, 20a
Klltinan. 276.
Kiltormer, 254.
Kiltnrk, 201.
Kilwortli, 27a
Kingstown, 2.
Kinlough, 76.
Kinnafad, ija
Kinneith. 333,
Kiosale, 331.
, Head of, 332,
Kinsaleb^,26j.
Kippure Mountain, 211.
Kircubbln, 5J.
Kish Light, 2.
Knightstown, 326.
Knock, 51, 174.
Kno<^ia Mountains, 9^ .
Knockcroghery, 159.
Knockfearina, 299.
Knocklayd, iii.
Knockloug, 234
Knockmabon mines, 261.
Knockiiaa, 315,316.
Knocknarea, Glen of, 72.
Knocknucean, 25.
Knoctopher, 250.
Knowth, 140.
Kyle Cross Beads, 205.
Kylemore, 189.
Labbalow, 324.
Ladies' I., 207.
Lagan R., 30, 48.
Laghtgeorge, 181.
Laghy, 78.
Lakes of Killarney, 281.
Lambay I, 2?.
Landestown C., 23.
Laracor, 134.
Laragh. 124 218.
Lame, 115.
laurencetown, 3$.
Layton, 25.
Laune R, 284, 324.
Lea C, 226. .
Leacht Con,' 73.
Le«m,335.
Lee JR., 344*
Leenane, 190.
Legmonshena, 6x.
.Lebinch, 312.
Leigblin Br., 24?.
Leiuster Br., 131.
Leixlip, 12a
Letterfrack, 189.
Letterkenny, 86.
Lettermore L, 17a
LiflFey R., 4, 120^ 221, 222.
Liffbrd. 85.
Linfield, 272.
INDEX.
355
LIMEBIOK.
Limerick, history, 306; Bitoa-
tion, bridges, 307; castle,
cathedral, jo8; harboar,
trade, 109.
— — to Boyle, jo6.
— to Tralec, 29J.
to Walerlord, 271.
• Janet, iji.
Lisbellaw, 57.
Ldsbom, i6.
Liscannor, 312.
LiscarroU, 238.
LiAcarton, 14}.
Llsfiimy, 268.
Lismany, 127.
Lismore, 267.
Lisnacarrlck. 81.
Lisnaskea, 56.
Lissadell, ^4.
Lissoy, 120.
Lissonghter, 178.
Listowel, i02.
Lohort, 278.
Liondonderry, 6^; siege, 66;
walls, cathedral, bridge,67 ;
trade, antiquities, 68»
— to Belfast, 99.
to Gweedore, 9J.
Longfield, 230.
Longford, 154.
Long Range, 286.
Loop Head, joi.
Loragh, 320.
Lough Agibbon, 87.
Agraflfard, 177.
Allua, 346.
Altan, 89, 98.
Anure, 91.
Arrow, 157.
Beg, loj.
Birroge, 92.
Boderg, 155.
Bofin, 155. 177-
'— Bray, 211.
— brickland. jj.
Garra, 186, J25.
CSonn, 198.
Goomshlugawn, a6x.
Oooter, }i}.
Corrib, 174.
Cullen, 198.
Curraun, 327.
Dan, 219.
Deel, 86.
Derevarj^h, 15J.
Derg, 81,317.321.
Doo, 113, 191, 3I1.
Doon, 92.
— — Dunlewy, 89,
Easke, 79.
Ennell, I2|.
Erne, 56, 57.
Fee, 190.
Feoogh, 194.
Fern, 87.
MAIDEN.
Lough Finn, 80.
Forbes, 155.
Foyle, 99.
4rara, 157.
Gartan, 87.
Gill, 72.
Glen, 89, 96, 154,
- — Glenade, 76.
Gtowna, 148.
Guitane, 291, 295.
Gur, 236.
Hyne, 336.
Inagh, 178.
Key, 1561
Kilglass, ijf.
Kiltoorls, 92.
Lasarae, 315.
Looscaunagb, 291.
Macnean, 60.
Mask, 185.
Cast., 186.
Melvln, 76.
more C, 228.
Muume, 79, 1 16.
Muckna, 55.
Nafooey, loi.
Nambrackaerg, 338.
Neagh, 105.
Owel, 152.
Ramor, 147.
Rea, 126, 254, 317.
rea, 254.
17.104.
Salt, 96c
Sheelin, 148.
Shinny, 24.
Strangford, 52.
Swilly, 69, 86.
Veagb, 88.
Loulsburgh, 194.
Louth, 31,
Lowtherstown Road, 62,
Lucan, J19.
Lugduff, 21^.
Luggelaw, 219.
Lugnaquilla, 215.
Lurgan, ?6.
Lurgan Green, 30.
Lurganboy, 61, 76.
Lusk, 24.
Lyons C., 220.
MacGilligan Mountain, loi.
MacPhllbln's C, 187.
Macroom, 349*
Mageney, 240.
Magharafelt, 103.
Maghera, 103.
Magheramome, 117.
Magulre's Br., 57.
Maiden Rocks, im.
Maiden Tower, 255.
MOUKT.
Maigne R, 296.
Main R., 102.
Malahlde,22; castle, 21; Ab-
bey. 23.
Malin. 69; Head, 69.
Malinmore, 84.
Mallow, 238, 269.
to Killamey, 277.
Mamturk Mountains^ 177.
Mangerton, 290.
Manister, 297.
Manor Cunningham, 86.
Hamilton, 61.
Marble Ardi, 61.
Markree, 158.
Maryborough, 226.
Mashanaglass C, 345.
Mathew Tower, 342.
Manme, 185.
May glass, 207.
Maynooth, i2X.
Mayo Plains, 198.
Mealagh Falls, 337.
Meeli^ 320.
Meigh, 3h
Mellifont, 27.
Menlough, 173.
Middleton, 265.
MUford, 87, 95, 243.
Military road, 215.
MlllstreeU 279.
Milltown C 30. 325.
Malbay, 311.
Minerals of Lreland, xxxviii.
Minna, 170.
Minnaun, 196.
Mitchelstown, 270.
caves. 271.
Moat of ArdscuU, 240.
Moate. 124.
Mogeely, 265.
Mohill, Iff.
Moher Cliffs, 312.
Moira, 36.
Molsta Sound, 162.
Molana Abbey, 266.
Molrenny, 194.
Monaghan, 149.
Monasterboice, 28.
Monasterevan, 224.
Monasterorls, i;o.
Monavullagh Mount, 261.
Monea C, 59.
Moneymore, 103.
Monlvea, 314.
Monkstown, 3, 342.
Moone, 242.
Moor A., 234.
Moross Cn 95.
Montgevlln C^ 6f .
Mount Anville, 200.
Mount Belle w, 315-
Mount Charles, 82.
Mountgarrett C, 25f .
Moimt Hillary, 278.
856
INDEX.
MOUNT.
Monnt Leinster, 204.
Mount Melleray, 267.
Hountmeliick; 225.
Hoontnorris, ^4.
Mount Nugent, 148.
Monntrath, 227.
Mount Pleasant, il.
Mount Shannon, ^22.
Mount Stewarts 52.
Mourae K., 65.
Movllle, 70.
Moy, 64, 160.
Moycullen, 175.
MoyneC^ 182.
A^ 161.
Moyry, 32.
Moy valley, 122.
MuckrosB A^ 289.
MuflF, 70, 99.
Muilrea, 190.
Mule's Leap, iji.
Mulgrave Barrack, 291.
Mullaghroast, 240.
Mullagbniore, 75.
Mullet, i6i.
Mnllinavat, 250.
MuUingar, 12).
to Portadown, 147.
to Sligo, 152.
Mulroy, 95.
Multifiu-nham, 152.
Mnngret, 296.
MurloughB^iij.
Mnrrlsl^ 193.
Muskerry, 344.
Mutton IsL, i68.
Mylerstown C, 129.
Myiatb, 98.
N.
Naas, 22T.
Nagles Mount, 269.
Naran, 92,
Narrow- water C^ j8.
Navan, 143.
Nenagh, J2}.
Nephin, 19J, 198.
Nevinstown, 144.
Newbliss, 56.
Newbridge, 120, 214, 222.
Newcastle, 41, 220^ 299.
Newgrange, 139.
New Inn, 147.
Newmarket, 278.
Newmarket Fergus, 310.
Newport, 194.
New Ross, 254.
Ne wrath Bridge, 212.
Newry, j|.
to Belfast, 38.
Newry Canal, 34.
Newton Pery, 307.
Newton Trim, iji.
PORTAOLOY.
Newtownaids, 52.
Newtownbarry, 20 j.
Newtownbellew, 315.
Newtownbreda, 50.
Newtownbutler, 56.
Newtowncuningham, 93.
Newtown Forb^, 154.
Newtowiigore, 73.
Newtownlimavaddy, 99.
NewtownmountkennKly, 212.
Newtownstewart, 64.
Nier R., 262.
Nine-mile-house, 276.
Ninestones, 204.
Nore R^ 247.
Nun's Cross, 213.
Oghfll Fort, 172.
Oldbrldge, 141.
Old Connaugbt, 210.
Olderfleet C, 116.
Old Leighlln, 243.
Omagh, 62.
Omeath, 38.
Oola, 272.
Oranmore, 128, 314.
Oratories, xlix.
Oughterarde, 176^ 220.
Ovens, 345.
Owencarrow R., 88.
Owenduff R., 189.
Owenea R^ 92.
Owengarriff R., 291.
Owentocker R., 93.
Owvane R., 337.
P.
Pallas, 272.
Pallaskenry, 296.
PalmerstOArn, 16.
Paps, 279.
Parsonstown, 252.
Partry, 186.
Passage, 259.
Passage West, 342.
Patrick's Well. 296.
Pettlgoe, 81.
Phllllpstown, 226.
Phoul-a-phooca, 22r.
Physical geography of Ire-
land, ix.
Pigeon-holes, 74.
Pilltown, 263, 277.
Places of interest, Iviii.
Platten H., 143.
Pleaskin, no.
Pocket, 330.
Pomeroy, 63.
Pontoon, 198.
Portacloy, i6j.
RINDOWX.
Portadown, 36.
Portaferry, 53.
Portarlington, 224.
Porthcoon, loJB.
Portlaw, 277.
Portmagee, 327.
Portmamock, 22.
Portnaspania, 1 10.
Portnoner, 109.
Portora, 58.
Portraine, 23.
Portrush, 106.
Portstewart, 106.
Portunma, 320.
Poul-an-ifirin, 344.
Power8court,2ii.
Poyntz Pass, 35.
Pulllns, 77.
Puncbeston, 221.
Queenstown, 343.
Quin, 31a
Ragbly, 74.
Raheuy, 19.
Rabin, 226.
Rakenny, 56.
Ram I., 105.
Ramsfort, 202.
Randalstown, 102.
Raphoe, 86.
Ratass, 303.
RathAldron, 144.
Rathcoole, 220.
Rathcormack, 2*18.
Rathdowney, 251.
Rathdrum, 213.
Ratbfamham, 16, 2co.
Rathfran, 162.
Rathkeale, 298.
Rathlin I., 112.
Rathmacknee, 206.
Rathmelton, 93.
Ratbmichael, 201.
Rathmines, 16, 2c o.
Rathmore, 146.
Rathmullan, 94.
Rathowen, 154.
Rattoo, 302.
Ravensdale, 32.
Recess, 177.
Red Bay, 114.
Red Hills, 224.
Red Lion. 61.
Reeks, 29?.
Rheban C., 240.
Rhincrew, 266.
Richhill, n2.
Rindown C, 159.
INDEX.
857
KINGMOYLAN.
Bingmoylan, 296^
Rinn R., 155.
Rlnvyle, 190.
Riveretown, 142.
Roaring Water, j}6.
Roche's Point* j4J.
Rockcorry, 55.
Rockingham, 156.
Rock of Doon, 87.
Rocky Hills, 226.
Rocky L, 341 .
Roe R., 99.
Booeky, 155.
Bosapenna, 96.
Boebeioon, 257.
Boeoomm<»i, 159.
So6crea,25i.
Boserk A., 161.
Boss C, 289.
A, 181.
H., 176,^01.
«— - Lake, 176.
Bosscarbery, 33$.
Bosses, 90.
B066OW K^ 194.
Rostrevor, 40.
Roondstone, i8a
Round Towers, origin and
uses of, L
Round Towers —
Aghadoe, 283.
Antrim, 104.
— • Aranmore, 171.
Ardmore, 263.
Clondalkin, 220.
Cionmachnols, ji8.
— — Dysart, 297.
— — Glendalougb, 216.
— - Kells, 145.
Kildare, 22J.
Kilree, 248.
— — Kinueath, jjj.
— — Lask, 24
— — Monasterbolce, 28.
■ Mount Shannon, 322.
— — Rattoo, 302.
— — Roscrea, 252.
Swords, 2j.
Taghadoe, 122.
Timahoe, 227.
Tory Island, 98.
Tulloherin, 248.
Turlough, 198.
Round Town, 16.
Roundwood, 218.
Rush, 24.
Rutland I^ 91.
Rye Water, 121.
S.
St. Bernard's Well, 140.
St. Donlough's, 22.
Saintfield, 47.
t [Irelatid.^
SLIEVE.
St Edmonsbury, 120.
St Fintan's Church, 21.
St John's, 43
St John's Point, 82.
St. Johnstown, 65.
St Kevin's Bed, 218.
St Kieran's Weil. 146.
St. Macdara's Church, 180.
St MuUhis, 255.
St Valery, 210.
St Wulstan's, 120.
Sallagb Braes, 115.
Salllns, 220.
Sally Gapb 219.
Salrock, 190.
Saltees, 207.
Salthill, J, 169.
Salthole, 117.
Saul, 46.
Scalps 219.
Scariff, J22.
Scarva, jj.
Scattery I., 300.
Scurloughstown, 114.
Sean Caislean, 173.
Seir Kyran. 253.
Sele R^ 147.
Seven Churches, 215, 3x7.
Seven Bogs, 303.
Shanagolden, 300.
Shane's C, 102.
Shanid C, 300.
Shankhill^ 200.
Shannon R., 124, 155. 296* 307,
317,321; source, 6x.
Bridge, 319.
View, 254.
Sheeby Mountains, 346.
Sheep I., no.
Sheephaven, 96.
Sheflrry, 191.
Shepperton Lakes, 3i9»
Shelton A., 215.
Shillelagh, 214.
Shimna R., 42.
Shinnagh, 279.
Shinrone, 252.
Shrule, 185.
Silvermine Mountains, 323.
Sion Mills, 65.
Six Mile Bridge, 31a
Six Mile Cross, 63.
Six MUe Water, loj.
Skeleton tours, Ixiv.
Skellig Rock, 328.
Skerries, 24.
Skibbereen, 335.
Skreen, 199
Hill, 13d.
Skull. 336.
Slade, 259.
Slane, 1J7.
Slaney R., 203*
Slaughterford Bridge, 1x7.
Slleve B&n, 4a
TEAMPULL.
Slleve Baughta, 321.
Slieve Kemagb, 323.
Slleve Bloom. 226.
Slleve Oallane, 311.
Slieve Croob. 47.
Slieve Daeane, 73.
Slleve Donard, 42.
Slievefelim, 272.
Slieveguaven, 41.
Slieve Gullion, 32.
Slleve League^ 83.
Slievemore, 196.
Slieve-na-griddle, 46.
Slieve-na-man, 270.
Slieve Russell, 6o.
Slieve Snaght. 69, 91.
Sligo,7o; abbey, 71.
to Strabane, 70.
Slish Mountain, 73.
SlyneHead. 188.
Smerwick. 304.
Smithboroui^, 149.
Sneem. 329.
Sperrin Mountains, 100.
Splddle, 170.
Spike I.. 34?*
Spire Hill. 225.
Stack Mountains, 302.
Staigue Fort 329.
Stags, 163.
StiUorgan, 200.
Strabane. 65.
to Killybegs, 85.
Stradbally, 227.
Stradone, 147.
Straffan, 220.
Strancally, 267.
Strangford, 44.
Stranorlar, 80.
Streamstown, 124.
Strokestown, 155.
StrueU 46.
Suck K., 160.
Sulr R, 174.
Sullivan's Case., 288.
Summerhill, 162. .
Sunville, 236.
Sutton, 19.
Swanlinbar, 60.
Swineford, 160.
Swords, 23,
Sydenham, $1,
T.
Taghadoe, 122.
Tagbmon. 254.
TaUow, 268.
Tanderagee, 35.
Tanrego, 199.
Tare Hill, 135.
Tarbert 299.
Taylor, Jeremy, 17.
Teampuli Benain, 171.
B
368
INDEX.
TEAMPULL.
VALLEY.
YOUGHAL.
Teampall Brecaln, i-ji.
Travelling view, xL
Vartry, 212, 218.
TftampuU Cbiarain, ill.
Tray, 151.
Ventry, 304.
Teampall Delscart, 263.
Trew, 64.
Victoria Bridge, 65.
Teampall Mic Diiach. 172.
Trillick. 62.
VlUierstown, 267.
Teampull Pholll, 172.
Trim, 132.
Vinegar Hill. 204.
Teclin R., 8j.
Trlmlestown, 132.
Vhrginia, 147.
TeltOD, 144.
Trostran Moant, 114.
Templecarae, 81.
Trubley C^ 134, ,
Templecoran, 117.
Trumery,36.
w.
Templecrcme, 91.
Taam, 315; cathedral, 315;
Templefaughtna, jjf.
cross, 316. ^
Waringstown, 36.
TemplegeaU 305. ■
Tulla, 322.
Warrenpoint, 38.
Temple Lodge. 158.
Tnllaghan, 75.
Waterfall, 331.
Temple Michael, 266.
Tallamore, 225.
WaterfooL 14,
Templemore, 228.
Tallaroan, 247. •
Wateriord, history and sitaft'
TemplenakUla, jiS.
TuUoherln, 248.
tion. 257; harbour, trade,
Templepatrick, 175.
TuUy C, 59.
Charcb. 200.
remains, cathedral, 2^8;
Termonfeckin, 29.
neighbourhood, convqr-
Termon MKSrath C, 81.
Tumuli, xlvi.
ances, 259.
Thomastown, 248.
Turlough, 198.
Watervllle, 327.
Three Rocks, 200.
Tuskar R., 207.
Westport, 191.
Three Sisters, J04.
Twelve Rns, 178.
Wexford, 205.
Tharles, 228.
Tynan, 150.
to Cork, 254.
Ticroghan, X|i.
Tyrawley, 162.
White Abbey, 106.
Timahoe, 227.
Tyrone coalfield, 63.
Head. iii.
Timoleague, 334.
Tyrtme H^ 314.
River, 30,
Tinarana, i2|.
Rockst 107.
Timiahely, 214.
Whitegate, 34J.
Timiahinch, 210.
IT.
Wicklow, 201.
Tintem A., 26a
tour through, 207.
Tlpperary, 272.
Upton C, 105.
Wooden Bridge, 214.
Tlrraleen, 17 j.
Urlingford, 251.
Urris Hills, 69.
Woodford, 321.
ToberscanaTan, 158.
Woodlands, 119.
Tolka R., 19.
Urrisbeg, 180.
Woodlawn, 127.
ToUymore, 42.
Use Mountains, 278.
Woodstocl^ 250.
Tooroe, loj.
Toombeola A., 180.
Tore waterfall, 291.
V.
Y.
Tormore, 85.
Tory L, 98.
Vale of Avoca, 213.
Yellow river, 130.
lYalee, joj.
Valentia, 326.
Youghal, 264.
Tramore, 26a
Valley of Diamonds, 210.
to Cahir, 266.
THE Em).
Lo:a)ON : primtbo by w. clowes and sons, staufobd sthkbt,
AND CUARINO CBOOB.
MUBRATS HANDBOOK ABVEBTISER.
1866.
The best Advertising Medium for all who are ddsirous of attracting the attention
of XngliBh and American Tourists in all parts of the world.
Atmual CirctLlatioii» 15,000.
MoaiitemenU are inserted cU the rate of £5 for a page and fiOs. for half a page, and muit he
t ' ' received and paid for previom to the 20^ April in each year.
INDEX TO ABVEBTISEMENTS.
Pfcge
Ambtkrdam— Brack's Hotd . . 70
ASTWKBF^HAtel de I'Eorope . 7
HAM St. Antoine 44
BAlel da Grand Labonrenr . ' . 46
HMddeHoUande 73
ATHE!r»— Hdtel des Etrangera. .' 78
IUden-Bisbn— Hdtel de HoUande 48
Victoria Hotel 64
BAfiHkEn DB LUOHON — QMlld
HOtd Bmme-XaiMn .... 61
Bais— Hdtel de la Xete d'Or . . 70
Httet des Trois Bois .... 56
^BLor— Hotel d'Augleterre . . 70
BdtelBoyal 82
BuxB— Penak>9 Vatteivbof . . 36
Buum—HdMl de France . . 48
Bo»-<k>lden Star Hotel ... 24
BoKOE&irx— Hotel de Nantes . . 19
BuBn— Oroasmann's Wood Scnipt. 6
Bioaatft— Enf liah Beading-ruom 42
0nodH6telde6*ai». ^ . . fit
HOtddeB^eVue .... 57
HMeldellurope 32
lAObTLtaitactory 71
CAUB-Aaden HdtelDeaselii . 71
CBuxBDir^Btttel de Pranoa . . 63
Chamohix— Hotel C<Hnpaoy . . 14
OoiiOeHB— Farina's Baa de Ooloffne 9
Odxstaktui<»>le.— Hdtel d'Angle-
tare 60
Babmbtadt— Hdtel de Darmstadt 72
Dnm-Orand HOtellmptoial . 41
BdteldeaBainB 40
fldtdBoral 43
1>W«— HOtet dilJttta .... 47
HataldaParo 46
DiBDiii— Hdtd zum Krouprioz. 77
BAWdeSaxa 40
^tomroft—AcUettlA Sons, Artists 10
Bbaehini'sMoaalc .... 6
BHai'i Musical BstaUishment . 60
Costa and Coatf, Artists ... 12
Up^AxOA 34
BonaoaUi, Scnlptor .... 3d
nAaxroBT— Tkochi's Glass Ware-
ItooHn Snmaror IMal ... 34
BMder's iSkholkctoTy of Stag-
liam 88,39
DM—Bdtel Sommer . . 48
[jBmrAr-Baker, Ghemlat ... 88
BdlelBeaaBlTage .... 71
B6t«l de la Ooanmne ... 63
Hotel de la M«tropole ... 68
BAteldelaPaiz 10
renko Anglaise 83
HA«7ifetoila 48
I« Quad Boy. Watchtnaker . 20
wQA—HAtet des Quatre Nations 86
SAMdeFiance 6^
BXalftelie 60
HflWHational 62
Heidelbkro— Hdtel Adler . . 71 WissBAMar— Bfttel d'AngJeterra . 40
HAtel de f Europe ..... 62 ! Fuar Seasons Hotel
Hdtel de BoasiQ
Prince ChAries Hotel .... 62
HoMBOUKG—Hdtel Victoria, . .71
LAUSANKB—Hdtel da Belvedere . 34
Hdtel Bean Rivage .... 72
HAtelOibU>n 40
Hdtd Riche Mon> . . . . ' . 72
Leshorn— Micali's Maif)Ie Works 7
Lisbon — Articles from Aladeira . 77
Lucerne — Hdtel Schweizerhof . 03
Swan Hotel 72
L0OANO— Hdtel du Pare ... 54
LuxESUonBO — ^Hdtel de Cologne . 73
Lyons— Grand Hdtel de Lyon . . 46
HOtel de rUuivers .... 73
Mabienbebo — ^Hydropathic Estab. 40
Haybnob— Hdtel d'Augleterre . 19
Hdlel 4a BoUande .... 72
MXNTON— Grand Hdtel d'Augle-
terre 72
HdtddelaM^diterraote . > . 72
Kentonb —Hdtel Grande Bre-
tagne 74
Mbis— Hotel de l*BaTope ... 46
Milan— Hdtel Cavoor .... 46
B6td Grande Bretagna ... 61
Hdtel St Maro 61
Mont Cenis- Borgo's Garriagos . 43
MoNioa— Wimmer's Magazine . 7
NAKAB—Cerolli. Agent . ..16
Storey, Agent 16 .
Nice— Pensions Anglaiaes ... 33
NvBEBtBBBO— Bed Bone Hotel >. 77
Pabs— Hdtel des Deax Mondes . 63
Kiridand and Co., Agents . . 76
Silk Warehoose 67
Patt— English Bank 64
Grand Hotel 64
PiBA— Andreonl. Sculptor ... 6
pBAOUfr^Hoftnann's Glass Mano^
tuAorj .10
Bomb— Shea, Hoose Agent . . 13
BoTTKBDAif — ^Kiamera, Bookaelltf 96
Teflttz— Perutz, Exchange OfBce 34
Tmm— Hdtel de BelleTue ... 78
TUBIN— Grand HOtel de rSarppe 49
Vkniob— Grand Hotel Victoria . 44
Ponti, Optician 12
Bietti's Antiquities .... 12
Vbvat— Hdtel Monnet .... 66
VtOHY— Grand Hdtel da Fkro . . 42
Vienna— Lobmeyr's Glass Manu-
laotery 10
Hdtel Monsch 61
Grand Hdtel National ... 46
Besch Brother^ Jewellers . . 11
Ullrich's Glass Warehouse . .11
VoiiOA Steam llaYigatioa Company 66
WiuuuiH- Hdtel KlTunpp .
ZUBIOH— Hdtel BeUevne .
70
47
60
Agents— iCCracken
Olirier and Oarr
ENGLAND.
. . . a^
. . 16,17
. .* . 61
Booka— Aitehiiectitral Antiquities
of Western India 74
Dictionaries of the Bible . . 76
— Drawing trom Nature . . 16
Foreign 3S
— ;- Hafidbook for London . . 20
—— . Leisare Hour 44
Swiss Pictures 64
of Travel, Ac 81
Travelling in Spain ... 66
Brown aiul Poison's Patent Floor 23
BurrowlBjtolTeBt OlMir« ... 26
Gary's Teleew^ 20
Chabb's Lodes and SaiBB ... 18
Coleman, Private. Tutor. ... 26
Continental Express Agency . . 21
Conriers and Servants . ... .85
Original Society .... 62
Fry's Chocolate , 6 6
Galignani's Paris Guide ... 26
Heal's Mahogany Furniture and
Bedsteads 28,29
Ibkland — Antrim Arms Hotel,
PortRiab • . - . . ,« . .66
Lee and Carter's Guide D6pdt . . 80
Letts' Maps.for T^oristi ... 26
Looock's Puhnonio WlJers ... 19
.Condonand Westminster Bank . 22
London, Chatham, and Dover Bail-
way 37
Maynard and Co., Ontfltters . . SO
ITeasom's Ouide-Books ... 68, 68
Mount's Bay Hobse. Penaaoe. . 42
Mudie's Library ...... 25
Parr's Lii^PillB 64
Passport AgnM7— Adams . . , 21
Pas^ort Agenogr— DwraU ... 61
Passport Agency— Letts ... 34
PasqiOrt Agency-Stanford . . 22
Portmanteaa»--Allen's .... 27
Portmanteaus— Smith's ... 64
Boyal Oarenoe H^tel, Exeter . . 20
Salom's Operii and Field Glass . 65
Soutli-Eastem Rail^vay .... 69
Sonth-WMtem BallWMr ... 60
Spiers' Ornamental Mannfinctares,
Oxford 26
Tennant. Geologist 65
TbreahMT's Essentials for Travelling 15
.^,1866.
AFPBAL TO TRAVBLXiEES. b^^^ibmib.
B
a nvsKAVs aAsnaoK ADTzsnaot. si,
NEW BRITISH TARIFF, 1866.
LoMCOtt, May h 1866.
MESSRS. J* & R. MCCRACKEN,
38, QUEEN STBHET, CAMON STEEET WEST, E.G.,
AQENTS, BY APPOtltTMENT, TO THE BOYAL ACADEMY, NATIONAL GALLERY,
AND GOYSRNHENr pEPARTKfiNT OF SCIENCE AND ART,
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Ain>
AQEKTS 0iiKEBALtiY TOU TOE BSCEPTXOK AtO) BHIf MEKT OF WOftftS 69
ART, BAGGAGE, &C.,
rudii AMU ^d Atx. si^Aittd ar «ri3 woiulii,
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Nobilitj and Gentry for the patrdnage hitherto bonferred on them, and hope to
he honoured with a continuance of thwr fiivours^ Their charges are framed with
k due ]!«gard to ecotiomy, abd the same care and ftttentiittei will be bestowed at
heretofore upon ail packages passing through their hands.
J. and R. Tyi«C5. hire the advantage df
DRY AND SPACIOUS WAREHOUSES,
Where Wotkft of Art and all descriptions of Property can be kept during the
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Parties favouring J. ^d R. M^C. with their Cbnsignmehts are requested to be
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ARE THE APPOINTED AGENTS IN ENGLAND OF MR. J. M. FARINA,
GEGENUBER J>EM JULICHS pLATZ, COLOGNE,
tea am
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PBICIB LIST QI* J. ft B, llOC|CA.CKE)f'S WINES.
Ditto per Quarter Cask, III,
Per Dozen.
24/
Dittb XMiaSoik PattiditUi^
Ditto Yeey 014
BotmxB FButss* P&izx Medai. Champaoux •
CrasopAone, iCoBT^s, PoiiiteaY^s, CticatOT^s •
Clabxts (Vint oaaefc ghipp«ri} ■' , ' \
BvsoirMDixs ditto . • .
Hock (Sachs ft HScheimer's)
MoeKLLx ditto « ' • »
Spabkumo do, dittt • • • •
Posts (First Class Shippers) •
Sheuuxs ditto • • .
iw; » ii/'
4V to 84/ ^
w/ 18/50/ tp aw/,.;
/ ' 20/ to 100/^ ..
14/ to m/ .
90/ to «&/
42/ to I'O/
. 38/ 4V to 100/ ^
30/ to , 70/ „
48/ to 84/
Bmamvob (Huwnsnp'f^ fte*)» per dosen ease • •
Porti, Sherrieiy Clareti, ftc., in Wtod) f^ vodvped Mom.
J^taUan Winet, tMqu^urSy ^t., tif tt^ery denHpiiotit a$ per PrioB i4H,
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/
UIST OF DUTIEl
An kinds of Merchandise, Works of ^^ Anti^ijities, Curiosities, ftc, ^ tt4tt(
admitted into England FBS8 OF BtTtl^, eioept tiie following (and a few t>tta(M»
sot of soffi^ent int^r^ to endmerate h#^), wl)ich tan still liable to Duty, tilt.i^
£ a '».'
AnauxBvsADa WATfcft • , • • ^tkegaihm 0 10 h'
CioABs and Tobaooo, manofaetured (81hs. oaly allowed in »
passenger's haggage)
ToBAOcjo, nnaiiiiuli&<!tatea CWlth 5 ^ t^i adi^tlOn^)
COPPSS ••••••
Cd^jBfifttdinJtY (sw^tttiidat^ and Saeead^s) .
OamatMJu and Liavsv^ • v 3 •
Sa9 D|K QouKiinB, in l(hi|^ il«^kl '
■ iTi *f — f ' ■' In etiier hettlee
liiodJUtoi^ aitfl VkitHiQiiLtt .
pjaawMib teimttt t
Px^TSyAfOo^ • ^ •
ofSilter A i
0
0
0
0
5
8
0
0
ditto
ditto
thefftUlon 6 1^
each 0 0
|IA« gallon
^he gallon
0?
1
6
0 14 0
0 0 ''4 :
0 14 0
the on. troy 0 17
4 « JMb 0 t
; . * tholb, D Q
Wxxxsla Oakk^ mtdar §•** of etrengtb • \ the gallon 0 I
— . ^ above 26** and unitti^ 42^. 61 Bttength • ditto 0 .9
„ „ 42°, for every degree of aleoholiistlreatth ., ditto 0 0
teBdtna (tttxtttn^k tolIL(i gidloh) ao(iite^ ttf strtn^ a»
Spxbxtb in Cask and itt Bottle ' • > • '
:^(^kf^ (Mi 'IkiOt t!MUi£ii Ml fell m^M jilxuomi
•4
ditto 4 M
0
8
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ANTWiTRP f Messrs. F. Mack 8e 09.
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▲THfiNS, PIBJEXJ8
R Anvw n A nirw S MieflSTs. Srurrss k Binder. Mr. F. Pbuxait's Socoeiadr.
BADBW BADEX . . . | ^^^^ Mellerio Fbbkes.
BAD EMS.... ,^.... MeMrg. Bboksr & JuHO. Mr. H. W. Tmxi..
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BERNE
BEYROUT... ;....; Mr. HxNitT HtAtD.
BOLOGITA ..Messrs. Rbnoi.i,Bi7GOIO..^ Co. Sig. L. ICknz.
BOMBAY... ....... Messrs. J.ECKIB & Co.
I Messrs. A. H. Sarattbr & Co.
nnnnir a rrr / ^« Gremaillt Fils Aine.
jJUttUJLAUi J ^^ L4ojj Gbruzet. 44. All^s de Toumy.
( Mesflr8.:RrriBi« h<3o., Place 4u Pe^als^ -4.
BOULCXJNE S. M. . . Messrs. MORY.'^'Eibs, Fii^ & Toocic. M^. A. Sna.
CAIJUg. : Messrs. Mort, Psri; Fiia, 8; Vowm.
CALCOTTA Messrs. GtLtAKDBBS, ARBUTHNOt, & Co.
OARLSBAD Mr. Txomias Wokv. 01ass HannCfectnrer. ^
CARRARA Sig. F. Bienahc^ &»lptor. Sifu YmcEiszo Lxvt, Scolptpr.
CATAKIA.. Messrs. Jeans ic Co. ^^
OrVlTA yEOCHIA . Messrs. Lows Bbothebs, British Vice-Consulate.
COBI4ENTZ Messrs. Sachs & Hochheimbr, Wine Merchants.
(wt/vxKV S ^'* '^' ^' Farina, gegenUb^ dem Julichs Platz.
wiA^wft ^ Messrs. G"-. TtLiiR** 06. Jfr. P. J. GASsiNOn.
CONSTANCE Mr. Fred. Hoz.
CONST ANTI](10PLE Messrs. C. S. Hav^oit & Co. Mr. Aubed C. Iauohton.
COPENHAGEN Messrs. H. J. Bino & SofN.
CORFU ............ Mr. J. W. Taixor.
Messrs. H. W. Bassbngb & Co. Mr. E. A|t]rmj>,,PriQta9Uer. The
Director of the Royal Porcelain Maaulhctory DepOt Mr. J. Krriss,
Glass Manufacturer. Madame Hblbna WpLRKHOt; SohgaueigaEie,
No. 6. Mr. MoRiTZ Mayer, Moritz S^nsse.
fMessrs. Exxte. FsNzi & Co. Messrs. French & Co. Hiissrs. Ma-
quay AiPakenhah. Mr. E. ChoODBAN. Mr. J.-TocoH. Messrs.
Nesti, Ciardi. k Co. Mr. Ani*>. dj Luioi Piacbnti. Mr. S.
Lowe. Mr. Gabto.Bianohini, Mosaic Worker. Messrs. P. Baz-
ZAim & Fig., Sculptors, Lungo I'Amo. SIg. Oamuo Nooneu.
{. l^LuiaxRAVAocA.
Mr. P. A. Taoohi's Successor, Glass Manufacturer, Zdl D, 44.
Messrs. Brno, Jun., 8c Go. Mr. F. BShlbr, Zeil D. 17.
Mr. G. A. ZiFF. Messrs. Sacss and Hochhehceb. Wine Merchants.
FRANZENSBAD. . . . Mr. C. J. Hofmann.
GENEVA ' Mr. Auo^ Snell. Mr. G. A. ESidbvbbhz, GNRndQnai* Ndk 1«.
^ , . ( Messrs. Grahet, Bbqwn, & Co.
GENOA < Messrs. G. Vionolo & FiQi. Mr. A. MoasA, Crooe di Malte.
( Mr. G. GfBKLXJ.
D^ESPEJjr..,.
«t... ••"
FLORENCE. «.«.«.;•
GHENT ^Messrs. Db Buyser Frbres, I>ealers i» AntiqulUe8» Mtrcbe an
* " '" \ Biexbere, No. 31.
GIBRALTAR Messrs. ARCfHBOLD, Johnston, 8c Powers. Messrs. TusirxB k Oo.
HAMWBG^.HTw... Messrs. Schaar&Clauss. Mr.Q.J.^.Baom
SSm. M0RRArS ILA^jmcmi ADVERTISES. 5
MCCRACKEN'S UBt W jOSMSmWO^^^STLB--^^
HONFI^ITR Mr.J.WloMH.*' '
INTERLAGKEN. . . . Mr. J. QaomMASV^ , JItfr. Glxmbnt Sisn.
LAUSANNE Mr. L. Lonckpiamps. Mr. Dubois Rbmou, FQs.
r|fe9^. ,W2 .Maob4« & Gp. ^Messrs, Thoxas Fats & Sons
I MessTi M^(tUA3r 8r pAKkNHAm ' Messn/QiAOo. Micau & Figo.,
liEQHORN < Sculptors in Alabaster and Marble. Mr. M. Risiori. Mr. Cablo
.] QiS9oci| UfE^iio dsllnfltxadv FeiTfita. ^Mefm. Qio. ^^OfMoa 8c
I Ck). Mr. ULISSB CoTRBtf AN. ' . .
I^EIPZIG Mr^ X E. OdtLsCHLAOEB'jj Sucoeasttr.
jjSBQ^ 1'^^.'^%^^ ^f ^^^ Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation
i 9<>^]P5y» • ' , r 7
LUCERNE Messrs. F. Knobs & Fils.
JiAURAfi. : Measra. fiuoiv ^ Go.
lUAJjAlSkA Mr. Gborob HoDOsoN. ;
f Mr.EKANUBtZAMlflT: M^MffS. JOG^. DJUOCAlRN & flONSj 40, SihuEft
llAIiTA ....»• { LevaBte^ Mosaic Wmken. Mr. Fo«r«irATO Tbsv a, fl2»8tnd»Ste
i Luda. Mr. L. FbancaIp4J^a» 123^ Stnida $t. Qiovaimit ;.
HANNHE3M ...... Messrs. Etsssn & Glaus.
StARlENBA!)...... Mf. J. T. AtiLBBf, Glass Mamtfacttirei^
MARSEILLES S ^^^Brs. Claudb Oxjwo & Oo« Messrs. Uoiusot BooiXBt^hOa.
"^^^^ ( Mr. PmuGBBT. 8, Rue Suff^n.
MATENCE ........ Mr.G.L.KATSBB.Expediteur. Mr.W.EHUSSiiAax, Cabinet Maker.
MEN TONE Mr. Paoiabo, Mr. Jean Obekgo Fils.
MESSINA , .Gauxibb^Walkkb^^Co.
IfTLA N J ^KS^«* mir St Se Qbbvio, Pia«»le dt & Mpcicro, No. 3176.
( Messrs. Fbatblli Brambilla.
MONTREAL Messrs. Tu(»cP80n, Mcbray, & Go.
■rngmnna S ^^' Ht. Wdoibb, Printseller, Theatinerstrasse, 36. Heirs of Sbb.
Muniuii ^ PK^^wfc .Mei^ L. Nmiou & Go.
NAPLES MessA. BoG^UffiK 8c Co. MoUH. W. J. Tuxnxb Jt Go.
NEW YORK Messrs. Austin. Baldwin, & Go.
•mrio ' CMe89r8»A.L4GBQix&QQ.r BriUsb.CeiinaAte. ,MeaBm.E.C24SU)9n
««a!i........^.......| J^ LesraadeCHAS-GioitoAiir. ^^ ."-r'-rr^
{Mr.. Paolo Galbibbrti, at the, I^ Horae, Pe^r In Antiquities.
Mr. jom GoNRA]> Cnopf. Banker and Forwarding Agent.
Mr. A. I?Tpyr.w> Dealer in Antiquities.
OSTEND... Messrs; Bach 8f Go. Messrs. Mack and Go.
PALERMO
Pi^tlS Mr. L. GRun^, PiRCker, Roe Gr6ix Petits Cbamps, No. S4. '" \
PAU.».......i.w.:.. Mr.BSBGXBDori.
PISA***** •*•<•»...• . MflN8SEs.Hi7<fUBX JcYAvLmrfScDlptoTfin AIa)MsteriM«iMarUs*;
-DD A fiTTB' i Hr. W. HoFUANN, Glass Manufacturer, Blauem Stem.
QUEBEC Messrs. Forsyth & Pexbertoh. . . , , , .
.Messrs. MACBBAVJt Co. Messrs. Fbbbbobn& Co. Messrs. Maquat,
.Q^^yPig J PAKBNHAX,diHooKBB. Mossrs. SpADA, Flakini. & Co. Messrs.
itussjir < pi^Y^BH, Cholmblbt, & Go. Mr. E. Trbbbi. Mr. Luigi Bban-
V GHiNi, at the English College. Mr. J. P. Shba.
BOTTEEDAM {Jf^SiSSS^'jl"- ^N».- <=• H»--m » O.
SCHAFFHAUSEN.. Mr. FbbdHoz. -^
SEVILLE Mr. Julian B. Wiluahs, British Vlce-Consnlafee.
ST. PETERfiHn£S('{ >3el»ai&. %a«2oBr.WAs,|C(i ib.te. l^ndkok -
8YRA Mr. Wilkinson, British ConsuL
THOUNE Mr. A. H. J. Wald, Basaar. Mr. N. Buzbbbgsb.
I Messrs. Fbbbbs Schiblin. Mr. Antunio Zbn.
VENICE ..,^..4Messr8.8JlpA.BLraosN™AL&Co. ..
, ' XiSr. Ii.'40tA»ib,l^po afiJABJIltino, J^^ '
YEVEY Mr. Jules Gbtaz.
xrrtnsna A S ^'* ^- Ullrigh, Glass Manufacturer, am Lugeck, No. 3.
YUSMM A ^ Messrs. J. & L. LobmbIhr, Glass Manufacturers, WO, Kitmthner
VOLTERRA Sig. Orro. Solaini. [Strasse.
WALDmiTT Mr.l^mM^OE. • , ;
ZXjAlCm. HeMrs. WBise sum Bbacsbn.
''- . ■ - '
« jnwura HAXMocK Ai»ruf iBU. Urn*
fLOItCNCR,
G, BIANCHINI,
MIHTTFAOTOBER OF TABI.E8 AND LADIES* ORNAMENTS
OF FLOBENTINS MOSAIC,
LUNG' ARNO ITUOVO, 1,
JKVITES the English Nobility and Ge^tty fp ylqit ^8 , Efltablisfameiit^ when
OWF {^Wi^ ^ MW QUQieimna •pedmei^ of Wf cejjel^rated and beautiful
Ifaumawtuny is eveiy deteriptioB of Ban and Fmckn» Stone^ Orden for TaUv
and other Oftuunents execnt^ to tsay Desigp.
G. BiANCHiNi'8 Affenti in Sngland ar* HflBsn. J* & K. M<CR40«:x]f
38, J^tka StrMt, OnMB Stivei Wert, LoadoB.
■"— — --— ^->-- ■m:,.-^* '■ -■ Ml ■ 1 * __J
I Hi"* • - , - » » ►
BRIENZ — iNTERLACK|N.
. ,■,.■, J, GEOSSMAlJSr, .
SeOLWOB IN WOOP, AND MANUPAqTUT^EE OF SWISS
VOOD MODJBLS AIO> Q^NAMJIl^TS,
TTIS WAKEH0US9 i9 litnated between th? B«1t^^ 9otel and Schweiifd^p^
^^ where he keeps the largest and best assortment of tiie aboye objects to b^
found in Bwitz^imd. He undertakes to fprward dtfoijii tq England and dsewhwe.
Correspondents in England, Meiut. J. & R. McCRACEEN, 38, Queen Street,
Cannon Street West, London*
P I S A.
GIUSEPPE ANDREONI,
Sculptor in Alabaster and Ol^ects of Fine Art^
NO; 872, VIA SANTA MARIA,
WHSAB
A GREAT ASSORTMENT OF FINE APTS, PCULPTURIL ftct,
CAN BE SEEN.
1M6.
JfOBRAT^S BAmtVXm ADVERTISER.
ANTWERP.
HOTEL DE TEIROPE,
Next to the Post Office,
ThB ^Soat ^i^VEA^^LE ^iT^AtlOlI IH
THE TOWW.
Pormerly Hotel da Pare.
This Hotel has been rebuilt, a magnlficeDt
Salle & manger added, as well as many Bed
and Sitting Rooms, entirely new fUmlshed
and redeoorated ; and the present Proprietor
spares no exertion to render It one of the
most popular hotels on the Continent
EzceUent Table d'Hdte.
Hot and Cold Baths.
Stabling and Coach-House.
English and French Newspapers.
V ^ G H o R N .
miCINTH UCAU AND SON,
Sta, FrancescOy No, 20.
Mairafoctory of Marble, Alabaster, and
Scagliola Tables, and Depdt of ottJects of
Their extensive Show-rooms are always
ope^i to ViBitorf.
THBiB AaBirrs nr bnolabd abb
MESflBS. J. Aim B. M'C&ACKEH,
38» Queen Street^ Cannon, Street West,
London.
M U N r C H,
HENRY WIMMER'S
GALLERY OP PINE ARTS.
PROPRIETOR, '
AUGUST HUMPLMAYB,
35, THEATINEB STREET,
Inyites the Nobility and Gentry to yisit his Galleby of Fine Arts, contaiining
an Extensive Collection of
MODERN PAI NTI NGS
by the best ^anich Artists,
PAINTIN08 ON PORCSIiAIHT AN]> ON OI<ASS,
all sortsof
PEOTOaBAPHS, ENaKAYIKaSi LITHOaRAPHS, ETO.,
including the complete Collections of the Tarioos Galleries.
Correspondents and Agents in England, Messrs, J. k R. M'Cracken, 38, Queen
Street, Cannon Street West, London.
8 UUBKAT'S HANDBOOK ikOVERTISSB. Vtf,
FRANKFORT O. M.
i '*
P. A. TACCHrS SUCCESSOR,
2KII., So. 44,
BOHEMIAM FAMJT GLASS AM© CETSTAl
WAElEMOmSE,
lO 1
P. A. TACCHI'S SUCCESSOR, Manufactobbb op Bohemias
Qlabs, begs to acquaint tlie Public that he has always an extensive
Assortment in the Newest and most Elegant Designs of
ORNAMENTAL OUT, ENQBAVED, aiLT, ft PAINTED GIiASS,
BOTH WHITE AKD COLOUKSD,
In Dessert Services, Chandeliers, Candelabras, Articles for the Table
and Toilet, and every possible variety of objects in this beautiful
branch of manufacture. He solicits, and will endeavour to merit, a
continuance of the favours of the Public, which he has enjoyed in
so high a degree during a considerable number of years,
P. A. Tacchi^s Successor has a Branch Establishment during the
Summer Season at
WIESBADEN^ in the Old Colomiade,
Where will always be found an extensive Selection of the newest
Articles from his Frankfort Establishment.
Visitors to Frankfort should not fail to pay a visit to the Show
RoOTUs of Mr. P. A. Tacchi's Successor.
His Agents in England, to whom he tmdertakes to for%vard Pur-
chases made of him, are Messrs. J. & R. M'Ceacken, 38^ Queen
Street, Cannon Street West, London*
1866. ItVBSAVS HAHIOOOK ADVERTiSEB. 9
COLOGNE ON THE RHINE
JOHAM MARIA FARINA,
GEGENUBER DEM JtJLICH'S PLATZ
(Opposite the JttUdi's Kaoe),
PUKVEYOE TO H. M. QUEEN VICTORIA;
TO H. R. H. THE PRINCE OF WALES;
TO H. M. THE Kma OF PRUSSIA; THE EMPEROR OP RUSSIA;
THE KINa OF HANOVER, ETC. ETQ^
09 TBI
ONLY GENUINE EAU DE COLOGNE.
THE frequency of mittakes» which Are sometimes aocidental, but fi>r tha most
part the result of deception practised by interested individuals, induces me to request
the attention of Ehiglish travellers to the following ^tement : —
The favourable reputation which my Eku de Cologne has acquired, since its invention bj
my ancestor in the year 1709, has induced many people to imitate it ; and in order to be able
to sell their spurious article more easily, and under pretext tbat it was genuine, they pro-
cared themselves a firm of Farina, by entering into partnership with persons of my name,
which is a very commcm one in Italy.
Persons who wish to purchase the genuine and original JSau de CoUigne ought to be parti-
cular to see that the labels and the bottles have not only my name, Johann Maria Farina,
but also the additional words, gegeniiber dem Julich's PlaU (that is, opposite the Julich's
Place), without addition of any number.
Travellers visiting Cologne, and intending to buy my genuine article, are eauti<»ed against
being led astray by cabmen, guides, commissioners, and other parties, who offer their services
to thenu I therefore beg to state tbat my manufacture and shop are in the same house,
situated oppotiU the Julich's Place, and nowhere else. It happens too, frequently, that the
said persons conduct the uninstructed strangers to shops of one of the fictitious firms, where,
notwitbstsnding assertion to the contraiy, they ate remunerated with nearly the half part of
the price paid by the pmnchaser, who^ of courM, must psy indirectly this remnniratien b^^ a
hif^ price and a bad article.
Another kind of imposition is practised in abnost every hotel in Cologne, where waiters,
commissioners, &c., offer to strangers Eau de Gol<^pQe, pretending that it is the genuine one,
and that I delivered It tonhem fbr the purpose of selling it fbr my account.
The only certain way to get in Cologne my genuine article is to buy it personally at my
house, oppoeUe the JHUch's Place, forming the comer of the two streets, Unter Goldschmidt
aEnd Oben Marspforten, No. 23, and having in the front six balconies, of which the three
higher ones bear my name, Johann Maria, Farina.
The excellence of my manufacture has been put beyond all doUbt by the f*ct that the
JnroTB of the Qreat Exhibitions in London, 1861 and 1862, have awarded to me the Prise
Medtd, and that I obtained honourable menti<m at Uie Great £^diiblti<m in ParisL 1866.
Ooz4>oxi^ January, 1863. JOHANN MARIA FABINA,
GEGENt/BER DEM JULICH'S PLATZ.
^^^ Mj^ Agency «pi Hwdan is at Messrs. J. k R. M'Orackek, 38, Qtmn
Street, Ccmnon Street Weet.
lO in^i.T'S HAHDBOOtE AD^^Sf^SR. Jfaf,
WILLIAM HOFMANN,
BOHEMIAN OLABS MANtiP AOSUEEE,
TO £q8 1UJE8TT THE EMPEROB OF AUSTBU,
HOTEL BLUE STAR,
Reoommends his great assorimmt of Ohm Wiire« &om his own Manniactories in
Bohemia. The choicest Articles in every Colour, Shape, and Description, are sold,
at the same moderate prices, at his Establishments.
Agents in London, Mttfus* J. and R. H'OftACKW, 88, Queen Street, Camion
Street West. Qoocbfomaeded mrect to mffhnd, Amrka, #c.
■yy lip I ■ I ■ ■ >T ■ ^"l.''*^ ' ^ * T^ *■'* } ■ f "W »
FLORENCE.
» I ■
JOHN AGLIETTI AND SONS,
ARTISTS,
GROUND FLOOR, No. 15, VIA MAOGIO,
Have a large Collection of Ancient and Modem Original Paintings, and also Copies
&iom the most celebrated Masters.
Copies, Carved Fi-ames, Gilt or Plain, . naade to order, and forwai'ded with
despatch to all parts of the world.
Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. and R. M^CEACIi^£I^y of No. 38, Queen
Sti'eet, Cannon Street West, Ji.C, Londcm.
VIEtHNA.
J. & L. LOBMEYR,
No. 18, KARNTHNERSTRASSE.
The, most complete assortment of all kinds of Bohemian White and Coloored
Crystal Glass, and of all articles in this branch of industry, in the newest and
most degant style, ii^ always on hand. The rich collections of all Articles of
Lui^ory, vi«. Table, Pessert, and other Services, Vases, Candelabras, Lustres,
Looking-glasses, &c. ice, will, they feel assured, satisfy every visitor. Tliey
obtain^ the Prize Medal at the International Exhibition of 1862.
The prices are fixed at very moderate and reasonable <^arg^ — The £n»lia||
langoiige is sp<^en.
Their Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. and R. M*Crackbn, No. 38
Queen Street, Cannon Street West, London, will execut« «Jil w^n with tW
greatest care and attention. ^'^
we, mmuVS HANDBOOK A^VEBTISBII.' 11
VtBNMA.'
HEINRICH ULLRICH,
. ; LATE WILHAM HOFMANN,
OIiABB AND BRONZB MANUFACTUBBB,
Xo. a, LUGECK,
Beoominends hi^ groi^ uaDrtm^t of QIass Mid Bronzy Wan 1q the choicest articles, in
eveiyisolottr, shafw, and deecrqttloa, spectelly ^pted to th* English and American iiiste,
from his own manufactories in Bohemia and Vienna (for thp Bt'Qiave).
The prices are fixed at very moderate and reasonable charges.
He leoelved at the last London RxhlhlMnn Uie Prize Medal for OTnellent eTft^tl^i and
very cheap inlces.
HEINfilOfl ULLRICH has aBtaQdi Bslqi&lialuneDt during the Summer Season at
BADEN-BADEN,
mSW t^BOM?JNAD^,-418.
^^1^ will always he found an eztenslTe selection of the newest articles ttcm. his Vienna
- ^ , ■
^^— _^i8|i >angn»^!» sppl^^, «idmry ta^HriB»tio« jfly«D| with |5tapsatie U> grovellers.
le sells only real Bottemlan OlasSf and not Hungarian OTass, which in many
plaoes is ^ in sa^Js^uUpp.
' ' ' Agent» in Paris and Ke>Kr York.
Agents In London, Messrs. J. and B. M'CRACfi!EN, 38, Queen Street Cannon Street West.
■^1. i|^«l ■<!<■■■ «■■■* >-*.»t^< ■ * L«|i ■■ *_l^< » . [ llW < >^
VigNNA,
i rm
RESCH BEOTHEES,
.i
JEWELLBRS,
>^ 8, KOHLMAKKT, CORKER OP WALLNER STREET,
Beg to recommend their SstaHisbmebt of
Hf ^ \ f * , ^V*** -^^ ^ -* • ^
Elf '
OWN MANDFACTUEBD
^^ J^WEIiIiEBY AND FAKCT GOLD AB!DI&IiS8.
IB MimRArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,
FLOR3QKCB.
MESSRS. COSTA & CONTI,
ARTISTS,
TSfo. 1818, VIA BBI BAJSLDl (Btndio on the First Floor).
Heam. Oosta aod Ooim Jkeq^ the Ungett coQection ia Floreoo ftf ^original
Andeot and Modern Pictures, as well as Copies of all the most celebrated Masters.
K.B. — English spoken.
Oorreipondenia in fingland, Messrs. J. and B. MCCRACKEN, 88, Queen Street,
Cannon ^Street West, London.
■ I i ■ il r I ■ I 1 I I ■ I II ■
V E H I O B.
M. D. RIETTI,
Dealer in ^tiqnities and Olgeots of Art,
8. GIO. GBISOSTAMO, OAMPIELLO BEMEB, 5703,
• . *
NEAR THE RIALTO, ON THE GRAND CANAU
Invites the English Nobility and Gentiy travelling on the Continent to visit his
Establishment, where he always has a large Assortment of Antiquities and Objects
of Art on Sale.
Correspondents in London, J. and K. M*€RA(%EN, 38, Qaeen Street, Cannon
Street West, E.C.
■ II I I _ I ■ I ■ 11 ■■ J - --_ - '-I ■ - -i - - - —
VENICE.
' CARLO^ONTI,
OPTICIAN AND PHOTOOBAPHER,
Who gained the Prize Medal at the International Exhibition of 1862, and whoae
House is acknowledged to be the first of its kind in the City, has opened a new
and large Establishment i^ Piazza (ii San Marco, Procumtie Nuove, ^ addition to
that which he keeps in the Riva del Schiavoni, No. 4180, near the Albergo Reale
Daneli.
The Optical Insti'umeot invented by him, and known under the name of the
ALETOSCOFE, or MEGALETOSOOPB,
has undergone such improvements as to render it (according to the judgment of
intelligent persons) the most perfect tiiii^ of tt* i^<i» both for its simple con*
strnction and magnificent optical effects.
CoiTespondents in London, Messrs. J. and R. M«CRACKEN, 38, Queen Straet,
Cannon Street West, E.G. . :
iwe. lanatATs eanubook adtebtisbr. is
ROME.
J, F. SHEA,
ENGLISH HOUSE-AGENT,
rOKWARDING AGENT
TO. H.B.H, ^HE PRINCE OF WAl4Ea
11, PtAZZA DI SPAGNA.
At this Office persons applying fbr
Large or Small Fiimished Apartments
inTariablj obtain correct and unbiassed infoimation on all matters connected witli
Lodging-Houses^ Bocurding-HouBes,
and
Bonsehold Management,
wliile
Low and Fixed Charges
for practical services offer safe and satisfactory assistance to Proprietor and Tenant,
as testified by the increasing confidence of English and American Travellers
. since, the opening of the .establishment in X859.
Plans and Lists of Apartments sent by Post
to p6t<oiU who wisi| to secui^ adcommodation, or avoid inconvenience at tiif
approach of Carnival or the Holy Week.
AS CUSTOM-HOUSE AOENT,
Mr. Sh^ dean and warehouses;
Baggage and other effects
for travellers who> to avoid the expense of quick traosit, send/Uieir thingps by sea or
' luggage-train, directed to his dare. *
He also snperilitends the
SficMng of WorKs of Art and other Property
intrusted to his care, and the forwarding of the same to England, &c. ; and being
Agent for Messrs. Bums and Mclvers' Italian line of steamers, can offer
facilities on the freight of packages between Italy and England.
CORRE9PONDENTS-
IX)NDON .^ Messrs. J. ft R. WCELA.CKKJf. 38, Queen Street, Gannon Street West.
Messrs. OLIVIER k CARR, 37, Flnsbury Square.
LIVERPOOL Messrs. 8TAVELEY & STARR, 9, Chapel Street
^^ ' "^f^H. J AS. HOSS & CQ., TSicTtfwer BnildtBgs.
FOLKESTONE ..l.....Mr. FAULICNEtl, .
BOULOGNE S.M. Mr. i^RKAR^ 18, Quai des Faqoebots.
PARIES .<, Messrs. LHERB^TTE, KANE, k CO., 8, Place de la Bourse.
MARSEILLES Messrs. GIRAUD FRERES* 44. Rue Sainte.
FLORENCE Messrs. HASKARD & SON.
NEW YORK'... ikeelnw AUarflNi SklSDWiK 8c CO. 1% BntOwhy.
U HtTRRArS HAITDBOOR ADVKttt'lUUR. Hax>
-^ ^— ■ ■ .... ^ .ILII.MP
GBAND HftflL IMPERIAL
< I ■■■■■
HOTEL DE LONDRES.
Th« ^T)e HcA^firo &ow the piogtrty of a .
JOINT-STOCK COMPANY,
WITH A SUPERINTENDING COMMITTEE OF MANAGERS.
The new Projprieiors of tliese
MAONIFIGEHT ESTABLIBSMENTS,
tJie
LAftaBBl) AKD MOST IMPORTANT AT CHAMONIX,
hare spared no expense in fitting them up with every comfort modem experience
bonld iUggesty ai w^ a# i|ii))ply^g toi .
EXCBLLEMT CUISINE,
under ctintHi bf a
and in forming a
CELI.AE OF WINS8 OF 1CHE FIN8ST qVAMTY.
The Apartipoits have been rel'umished, and the Service is or^ised on th6 model
of the fii'st Hotels in Switzerland, &nd is placed under the
direction of a
MAiTSB D'HOTUi
of {yt^ved lEfitperience, and folly eqtiiil tto thA oMitus dntiek of his positiflt
PRIVATE SITTING ROOMSj BATHS, AND
READING ROOM&
supplied with the leading Jodmals of l^nirope find AmeritA, and mrtmgemuiBs U
tetisty every t^iste.
800 Boegtf^ nnging tnm d tenet a bed Mi upwaidi.
1866.
MtTRRAY*S HANBBObfe Al3VfiltTISlE^.
n
TO VISITORS to NAPLES.
«
M. CERULLI,
"PsAtazo Friozzi, No. 2Q^, Riviera oU Chiaja.
WORKS OF ART, GOODS, AND LUGGA6E
forwarded to and received from all parts of the world, and warehoused at moderate charges'
of rent.
BAHX BIXXS, (^CtTlAB KOTIS, AKD Xi2TT£M Of CXSUtt
cashed by payment in Gold.
comarTRT vtthss or bvert dbscsxptxov,
both in Bottle and in Cask, for exportation, at reduced prices.
FOREIGN WINES, ENGLISH BEEBS, <fcc., IMPOBTED,
Agency Business of every desertotiott attended tb; also the PURCHASE) of LANDS,
HOUSES, or VILLAS, for the account of Foreigners.
Ogneflpondents in London-^lMBsni OLlvusji fr OABB^ S7, linsbury 8q«are.
KiaWLes.
EDWARD STOEEY,
861, BlVIEAA JH CSLAJA.
HOUSE, OOMklBSlON. AND GENERAL
AOBtUT,
WnXEf ALE, AKD T£A HE^HAKT,
Umkfid'kes Shipment qf Goods <uk^ Pcudoages
to cUl parts of the World.
E. S. particularly invites the attention of
the Public to his Stock of ITALIAN WlNESj
which are chosen with great care from the
fiiBt vintages in th^ Mngdoih.
Oorrespondents in London-
Messrs. OuviEtt & Cabk, 37, Finsbury Square.
teSSEN^rlALS
FOB
TRAVELLINa.
Thresher^s India Tweed Suiti.
Thresher's Kashmir Flannel Shirts.
Thresher's Kashinir WooUen Socks,
^thresher's Coloured Flannel Shirta
Thresher's Travelling Bags.
SOLD ONLY BY
THBESHBK & GLENNY,
hIEXT DQOR TO SOMERSET HOUSE,
STRAND.
In imperial 8ve,» wiUi 18 LithO£Ka|Alc Hates, coloured and pUdn, and 108 Wpod Engravings,
price 26«. ctbth,
DEAWING from NATURE. By George Barnard,
Pi^dfetesojf of Drawing at Rugbjr School.
• Not only may the Art-student consult
Mr. Barnard's Drawing from Nature^ but
•very lover of tbfc beauties of nature will find
ill it that which will interest him; for It is
something; more than a dry technical treatise
upon landscape painting ; it is a book full of
valuable information about every object that
cortsiitutes tbiB plbturfejMiue A mote at-
tractive book of instruction has rarely, if errMv
been brought to our notice.'— -i»-< Journal,
London: LONGMANS, GREEN^ «dd CO., Paternoster Row.
1< MDSR^rS HAKPBOOE ADTESTISEa May
TO VISITORS TO THE CONTINENT.
■ ♦ ■
37, Finsbury Square, London,
(Mb. OuriBB bstaslisred in 1830,)
COMMISSION MERCHANTS AND GENERAL AGENTS
For Shipment and Reception of Goods to and from ail Parts of the World,
and nCPOBTESS OF WDTES, ^c,
rvLIVIBR & CARR have the honour to inform
^ VISITORS TO THE CONTINENT
tlMl the^r undertake to recQiye and pass through the Costomhouse in Londoii,
Liverpool, Southampton, &c.,
W0BX8 of ABT, BAOOAOE, and FBOFEBTY of E7EBT DESGBIFTIOH,
which are attended to on arrival
with the utmost Care in Examination and Bemoval,
under their own personal superintendence. They beg to call particular attention to
their Moderate Charges,
which have given universal satisfaction.
HaQ]^ Travellers having expressed a desire to loiow in anticipatioa to what
expenses their Purchases are liable on arrival in England, the following
Rates of Ohaiges on the Reception of Packages
may be relied upon, for Landing from the Ship, Clearing, Delivery in London,
and Agency \-^
On Trunks of Baggage •.*.....». about 9s. eadu
On Cases of Works of Art, &c., of moderate size and value . about 16s* ^
„ „ „ of larger „ „ 20s. to 258. „
On very large Cases of valuable Statuary, Pictures, &c., on which an estimate
ohnnot well be given, the diarges will depaid on the care and trouble required.
When several cases are sept together the charges are less on each case.
OLIVIER & CARR tmdertake the
FOBWAXBINO OF PACKAGES OF EVEBY KIND
to the Continent, to the care of their Correspondents, where they can remain, if
required, until the arrival of the owners.
Also
THE EXECUTION OF OBBEBS FOB THE FUBCHAfiE OF G00B8
of all kinds, which, from their long experience as Commission Merchants, they
are enabled to buy on the most advantageous terms.
Residents on the Continent will find this a convenient means of ordering any^
thing they may require fh)m London.
N.B. — The keys of locked Packages should always be sent to OuviEE & CaBB,
as everything, although free of duty, must be examined by the Customs on anrlTaU
nrSTTBAKCES EFFECTED, and Agenoy Business of every deseription
attended to.
186^.
MCRRArS HAITDBOOK ADVElttlSEft.
1^
#l[.t¥teft * OMMnm pHnmpaJk Cmn/itapmmUmU
Ji Mx-la-ChapdU . . . . Messrs. A. 60UHEUR and GO.
. MrJ. W.BROWN&
. Mr. F. VEREtLEN BEERTTAERT.
Measra. VLEUaELS and GUFFANTI.
. Mr. J. J. FREY.
. MMsrB. ANTO:9ro MA2EtTTI aiul COi
. Mr. F. BKYBRMAN.
. Mr. L. BRA^f LY. 81, Rue Napoleon.
. Mr. G. LUYCKX, 24, Rue de8 Fabriqnw.
Mr. L. STEI?^ 22. Montagne de la Co<r.
. Messrs. MORY. P^re, Fils. and VOGOTE.
. Messrs. C. H. VAN ZUTPHEN and 00.
Mesen G. TILMBS and CO.
. Messrs. VALSAMACHY and 00., Galata.
. Msssrs.KRABi'SOHMBRandOO.
. Messrs. HASKARD and S0!<, i, Borgo SS. Apostoli.
Messrs. W. H. WOOD and CO. \ Mr. J. TUUGfe.
, Mr. MARriN BBCE:ER 5, Bleidenstnuse.
Mr. MORITZ a GOLDSOHMIDT, Banker.
. Messrs. JOLIMAY and 00.
. Messrs. G. B. PRATOLONGO and 00.
Messrs. P. CAUVINjDIAMANTI, and OOBTA.
. Messrs. JULIITS WtlSTENFELD and CO,
. Messrs. CHR. EGLIN and MARING.
. Messrs. RITSOHARD and BURKL
. Messrs. GERHARD and HEY.
. MesMV. RBNDCRSON BBOtHSBfl.
. MesifB. ROSB St CU
. Messrs. GIRAUD FRftRES.
Messrs. HORACE BOUCHET and CO.
. Measre. GIO. CURTI & FIG«.
. Messrs. GUTLBBBH and WBIDBRT.
» Mr. THOS. RAGLAND.
Mr. E. STOREY. 261. Riviera di Chlida.
Mr. M. CERULLL 86T. Rivtera di ^W He Port).
. Messrs. LBS FILSDE GH. GIORDAN, goal LnneX U (tcur
. Mr. J. DDCLOS ASSANDRL Martin. 43.
. Messrs. LANGL0I6 FILS FR^RKk Rna das Marais St.
M. HECTOR L'HBRBIBR, It, Roa de UDo««De.
. Mr. BERGEROT.
. Mr. J. J. SEIDU HlbemniaM^ No. lOMH
. Mr. J. P. SHEA, li, Piazsa di Spagaa.
. Mr. J. A. HOUWENSt Messn.P. A. VAN fiSandOa
. Messrs. MARXm FE^RES.
. Mr. CHI AB(MX) PIE TRO, Vk Dan OtoMa, IS.
. Mr. HBNRY DECOPPET.
„ r^,^ Mr.AMTON FOKORNY,Btadt8otmerfdi0Baaska.
Any other honsea will also fojrward gooda to 0. & C. on receiving instrtictiotis
to do 80. Travellers are requested always to give particular directions that their
F^iekages an oOBiigBAd direct to OtI VIER & CAKR, 37, FINSBURY SQUARE.
l^CES OP ^ I N E S I^CI^BTED BT
,9 Antwerp .
, , B^le . ,
}, MItgna ,
',,'Bordeau»
;,, Boulogne,
», Brus$di .
., Cdiait
,, Coloffne .
,, ConstanHnople
,, Drefden .
,, Florenct .
,, Pnuiltfori
i» Gmun
„ Bcumburg
fg SOivn •
,, IfUerladcen
, , Leiptig ,
,, Leghorn .
, } JnllM
,,Mar8eak$
*» • -•*
iiilTdVlM .
II Oeteni
II Peiint »
f, Pau . .
$t Pto^ue
,, Boma , *
»t BoitenUm
I, IVteM
li am^m
If vewHee
TCsniM
OLIVIER AND OABB.
JkOIKKW TO GBOWBBa.
61ttFetf Shipped bj F. Beyermni, fiordeaux ....
BttlVttlKly ., Dumoulln aln6, Savlgny-sous-Beamie
Boos 4t AKoseUef Jodocins Frtees k Co., Coblenta .
^ Sparkling, „
C1iaiiipajpi6 » k . . • » . .
" in Qr. Casks, from ifll ; Hlids. £21 . . *
Paia, Gold, or Browiw in (^- Casks. dl% to £lS. deHvefed
€kA«n^ BraoviipT, md Hooi^ la tha Wood, at Gnmen* Prloeg.
jDetaOeci Priot Lifts way be fkoa ^ 0. & 0., 37, finthwry Square,
per do<. duty paM.
]8<., 24s.f 30<., 36l„ to qOf.
a4«., 38«^ 36s., to 84«.
au, 30«., 36«., to VtOti
48t.tO60«.
* 48<.to72«i
261. to 30t^
IS HUBBArS HAlfDBOOE ABTEBTISEB. Ubj,
CHUBB'S LOCKS and SAFES.
CHUBB & SON,
MAKERS TO THE QUEEN, AND TO HJt-H. THE PRINCE OF WALES.
'IHUBB'S PATENT DETECTOR LOCKS, the most Becnre from
at keyg. «n itTODg. ilmpLe, and dunblB, ud made of All ilzeg and for
A ■ Lock CUD bt ippUed.
Hia, Tnremng Bi^ Dnsiing Cuea, WriUsg Detha, te,, filled with
DD ad utterly insecnTB Locks, can Iwve t^ plaoo of then npplled by
I'e Patekt wltfaoBt nJunUoii or InjuT'
TtAvmuaml Looa-PacaioniBS nod Pohtibu Scuicheoh Loch for KoirtnE Doon llut
ion ba foDod biCaud only by ajmmon Lodu.
CUDBB A 80K l»t« 4iw»rg in 6loct » viilety of Writing and DtapHeb Bona In
UorocGO or RdhIa Leiilber eiia Jupanned Tin ; tbe ]8,ixer belag puticukr^ recomnuDded
ftrlifbtiinB, moio. dnrablUty, ud fiEMom Quid duiuge by iisecti or bat dfmalei.
BMt Bluk Kiuulltd Leathsr TntTelUng Bagt of vuiout mtt, ill wftli
Chubb's Paunt Locks. Caih, Deed, and Paper Bozw of all dimeosioia.
" FSB'S PATENT SATES
coonrDctal In tbs very bol
, of th« tuxaqat iFtDD^Vinn,
ttli Cbobb's PiTDR Dwu^ras-
t md their OmmiwDHt-Fino*
•LATBf LoCEfl. Afo tbo moot
rom lire ukl bari^luy, ud fOrm
It umplete uJCmata for Booki,
Deedi, Jevdi. Plate, ud oiber
f property.
BB & SOK ban i1» Btimg
sjoBUy ««ure in all «•
A walli. 1 fcuSkt, m tiriMj at bud ttlctoEid Id «
t^mflttt lOaltTata Prieei LItu qf c*a»'» Lcda. Biaa, Sofa, and otto- Maru^octvra,
grfliiiaidpoii'frtt.
CKUSB and SON, Makers to the Bank of KntflRiul,
67, St. Fatil'B Chtmh^trd, Loudnt, B.O.
186«» MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 19
iNStANT RELIEF and a RAPip CURE o? ASTHMA, CONSUMPTION,
INFLUENZA, COUGHS, .COLDS, anb iLl DISORDERS OP the
BREATH, THROAT, and LUNGS,
More Cures of Coughs, .Colds, and Hoarseness.
Frwn Messrs. FergjBon and Son, Auctioneers, I^eek :—
* Sir,— The beneficial effects we have derived fr^m your Pin«iiOxic Wapebs make us feel
it a duty to offer you our gratuitous testimony to their superiority over any other remedy we
liave ever tried for ooldB, coughs, and boarseQess. so'pecaliArly trouUesometooiqr pnifessiun/
Another TesTiMONTAii.
. Cwa (^AMOima, Qdntumpiioni Qotight, CokUt 4c
From Mr. Coblfi, M J>,S.. 3road-row, Yarmouth, April 2» 1866 ;»
' To my knowledge many persons have derived great benefit from their use/
To Sinceni and Publle Speakers they aro invaluable for clearing atMl
strengthening the voice, and have a pleaaant taste. Price it. 04^ 2f. 9€l.r <U. 6d., and lU
per Box. Sold by all Druggists.
IHBIOXSTIOir AITD BILE.
The only effectual and pleasant-tasting Stouacuic ArEaiENT and ANTisiuona Medicine is
DR. LOCOCK'S EXCELSIOR WAFERS.
It acts promptty, tattei delightfvUy, and requires no res^int in die( or habits.
Sold at 1«. lid, 2s. Sd., and 4s. 6d., by all Druggists, and by the Proprietors' Agents,
Da SiLVA & Co., 26* Sride-hme, Fleet-str^tt London, £.C
BORD]fiAUX.
H6TEL be NANTES,
QtJAY LOtJIS XVIH., No. 6.
FiRST-OLASS Hotel, most delightfully sitaated, ftK;ing the Port, in the centre of
the Cit J, near the Promenades, the Exchange, eml l^ei^tresy ia ^t^td up ia n moat
superior style, has & good Kestamant, and a largf StMc of ^^^ - .
liOrge and Small Apartments for Families and O^^tlemen, Sitifug Bloom for
Conversation^ ^0. ^c,
ATTENDANTS SPEAKING SEVERAL LANGUAGES.
mayence:
■»
H<^TEL I>'AJV01LiE:TEItItE,
HEHBY SPSCHT, VTmb KesobASt and Grower.
This lint-rate and excellent Sotel (combtnjng eveiy Engli^ comfoit), sitoAted
in front of the Bridge, is the nearest Hotel to the Steamboats and close to the
Bailway Stations. From its Balconies and Rooms are Piotuiesque Yiews of the
Rhine and Mountains. Gaiignani, Times, and Illustrated Neics taken in. The
TaUe-d'Hote is renowned for its excellence, and for its Genuine Bhenish Wines
and SparUing Hook, which Mr. Specht exports to England at WliolMale Prices.
0-2'
20
MtmRXVS HANDBOOK ADVERTtSEft.
^4t»
CXETCR.
SB-OPBNINa OF THU
ItOVAL OI4ABBNCB HOTBL,
CATHEDEAL YAED.
WM. BIRKETT
BEOS respeotftiUy to annonnoe to the Kobility, Cldrgy,
Gently, and Public In genenU, tbat hs hM insBBV oh laa
ROYAL OLARENGE HOTEL,
which is ritoate in the best pm of the dtir, nhd lla8 sn tmhiteTrHpted view of the CathednL
The Proprietor, having jrarchsl^ ^e Haftt, hks stMu^d no expense to biAke ii in evtaj
war gaited for the &st FAtnllieflk and ttrnfetrtAt to the GUr^. Tfaa Hotel kas Men oqb-
pleitety i>eno^ated and dooorated, and fitted tip threoghout with mw and elegaiU Firmnm»
The Hotel comprises nomeroos suites of Apartments, a larga Oofte Bomoi a Lidie^ OsSia
Boom, the well-lmown
ASSEMBLY BOOM
(which has a large Ordiestra wttl^ convenient new Ante-tooih, And is emfiiently adiqrted for
Balls. Concerts, and PuMlc Meetings), and a lahge Dii^g Boiim* known as the " Welukg-
Tov." Svery endeavour will be ouule to sustain the r^ate of the Bozal CL^BEiKa asa
Firatdass FAMILY HOrSt. .
Omnibuses to meet the lYains, 0ood P68t JSdrses, Catrki^s, Jc. ^<?.
OENRVAc
LE GKANB BOY & FILS (late Mottlinie),
WATC9 MANXJFACTURERS,
'23, QUAYS DES BERGUES, AND 9, SALISBURY STJREET, STRAND, LONDON.
OAftTS XM^EOVXB POOKET
^TOUBISrS T£1I»OOF£.
{8e€ * Mwray'^ SattdbooJa')
If ANUVAornaER of all descriptionii of Mathe*
inatical. Surveying, and Optical Insimments,
for the use of NaVml and MtUtary Officers, te.
Also tha naw Binocular Reconndtring Field
Glass, in Aluminium of exceeding lightness
and durability, so highly ^>oken of bjr ofioers
and other gentlemen : from 11. Is. ; ordinary.
metal ftom 2{. 10a. Gary's improved Achro*
mati» Mltfosoope^ wim tiro isCs of dhoice
lenses, capable of deflntr^ the severe test
otdects; {h>m 41. 4*. trAVfeUidg S^WiUcles
of all kinds.
Mathenurtkal and Optical Instnonent
Maker to the Admiraltgr, Tdnity House,
Royal Military College, Sandhurst, Royal
€^graphical Society, Clurist's Hospital, and
Sast India Gollega, Agra, ftc ; and Optkiian
to am RdyAl London (^htfaalmic Hospital.
lai, SXBANB, LOHMK.
Bftohliiked npwarda of a Centoxy. ,
With Mttf), l€iii0., Be. ed.
MR. MURRAY'S
HANDBOOK
FOB
LONDON AS IT IS.
A CompkU Guide to aU thfi OljecU
(mA J^hH of the M6kvpoU$.
Soss Murray, Albemarle Street.
xsaa. iiraBArs HAiaxROOK advertb^k. 21
PASSPORT AGENCY OFFICE,
LOTOOK, 69, :fLBE^ STBBET, E. 0.
BesnilationB for obtaining Foreign Office Pansports gratis.
RESIDENTS in the country or
Landop. who dattrt to Cfoid tioiibte, can IK-K ' u ,. ■■ , ,.
h»ve PABBPORTg o^ttiueA a»4 vised. Oonatry ilmt , ij6»a"
ReiWents, b/ this ftrrapgenoent, *re a»ved the |j[ ^ wr--^ j
trouble of a personal att^&d^ce, tA tb6 Pasqwrt
CAn be fomaMled to them by Post (on fUgle).
Fn obtatniog taipon, U. 6d.{ yi8a|,Tt. Molk
<PWQMii« o$r^f»aif Mmmieiwni Ccmi, ami
Noma Uitem Hherwn in Gold.
Puiport Cases from li. 6d, to 61. each.
Vi«8 oblAtned to United States PMipons.
Eveiy daaertptipii of Re<|uii^tes tsr Txivellen.
THE LATEST EDITIONS OF MURRAY'S HANDBOOKS.
B»Afg4W*8 BMrm and OoirtaiSMTAL Onross and Handbooks to France, Belgifpn,
Svitoerlaad. Italy, Spain and PoitvgaL Nonnanly, BrtUany, Tyrol. Fuli» l£ttian» tcB.
BBAseuAw's Go)i?i.BcrB PuBASB BoQjLs, French, it»Uan, Spanish, and Qerman. U, efiOi,
Kkt.t.ar's, LBUTfiOLD's, and Ziesgleb's Maps of Switserlatid, Original Bd^ons.
Knapsadn, Hvsii Waterproof Ooat^, Beofiiiateiien, H«Ddban» F^rtipaptaAUS, fco»
Phraaa Books and Dlctlotuiries. Matb's Map of thb l^soc.
INDIA.
Bbamhaw*S 0¥erlaii4 and Tbrooi^ RoatftChUife to India, Cbiaa, «od AwtnUki, fkk
Bradshaw's Handbook to the Bonibfij Ffe|J4eQpy «p4 tte Iforth-Wett Provinces, Madras,
and Bengal, 10<. each.
Works on Health-Resorto, OHtnates, aad Wkters. By Banmr Ltts, MJ).* Member of several
MadieM Aeademlea and aodetiea. .
EzporiiiiMd Ck>iin«rs may be engaged upon application,
. W. J. ADAMS (BaADBHAw's Bsitish and Oontihektal UumB Offiok),
tOKDON. ft9> FLBET STREET, E.a
Opfick H9vm 8 TO 7. Satobdays 8 to 3.
ra COimRNTAL SAUT PABOELS XZ?M3« (t^ Pr<^|or ot
which is the Sole Aoemt for England of the Belgian Govo-nitient Baiiway
and Royal Prussian FosUMm) wm citablif bed m 1849, for OONVfiTANCE BY
GOVERNMENT MAIJ. PACKETS EVERY NIGHT (Sunday excepted), vi«
DOVER, CALAIS, aud O^t^KP, of Parcels and Paclcages of all kinds between
ENGLAND and the CONTXNENT* jizr, to and ffofn France, Belgium,
Holland, Russia, Pbussia, the Zollvereui and other German States,
Austria, Bavaria, Switzerland, Italy, the LbYant, the Mediterra-
VSiAV, |(«„ 4^ fixed end greaUy reduced Rates, Tables of which, with full iostrac-
tioDs to senders, may be had gratis,
N3.— Amount of Invoices and ont charges collected on delivery of parcels in Belgium,
Holland, Prussia, and other States of the ZoUvfireln.
(MBoei and Agents of l^e Continental Express.
LONDON:— "i QOVERHMSNT
Omsv ^Fic^ i3. Gra^huroli Street, City : D. N. Bsn)oK, Manage^, i ^Aitt Pa6%k$
BraitcB OFnCE, West End. 34, Regent Circus (Universal 0»ee). ) Ovf-iCEs.
Belginm.--08TKVi]s> 54; KueSt, Joseph : F. bKRiDDER.— BrHhA 11, Montagne de la Cour :
A, QiKK>?^<^BQe Duquesnoy and North Batlw«y gutioa.— Avtw^bp, (^ksi^ Libob,
y BRVIKBS, and all other places in Belgium : Qovernment Railway Station.
Van Gbkd and Looe.
Arom the Bpulevaid des ItaHeee t N. O. Vfut*
Sadvaob.
J. 0. BMITH, l^p^rietov.
Lmidon, Ist May, 1866. Late Jomr Piddukitok ft JoHir FRiBmJ,
22
MUl«UY*S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
May,
Stanford's Por6igE Office Passport Agency,
e, CHABING CEOSS, liONDON, B,W.
Passports (which are good for life)
mounted on MoBlfn or Silk, in Roan,
Morocco, or Russia Case, with the
nama of the Owner lettered oa the
outside, thus proTenting ioiury or
loss, as well as lessening the dday in
examination abroad.
For further particolan, indnding
the Forms of An>Ueatlon, Cost of
passporti Visas, 9k. ^ see Stan-
ford's Passport CirenJar
whidi will he forwarded per post on
receipt of One Stamp.
STANFORD'S TOimiSrS CATALOGXTE,
Gontaintaig Title, Prioe, ftc, of the Best Qvxif* Books, Maps, Gonvebsatiov Books* Diorioir-
ABIES, &e. Ao., {mhllshed fai the United Kingd^Mn* the Contio^t, and AauaAcA, Gratis <m
application, or f^ pa* post tw One Staiiq>.
LoxDOV: EDWARD STANFOBD, «, Ghabimo Gross; S.W.,
Agent for the Sale of the Ordnance Maps, Geological Snrvey Mi^ and Admiralty Charts.
THE LONDON and WESTMINSTER BANK issues Circular Notes of £10,
£25, and £50 each, fbr the use of Traveller^ payable in the principal Towns on the
Continent of Eorope, also in Asia, Africa, and North and South America. No enpense
whatever is incurred, and when cashed no charge Is made for oommi88i<»i. Letters of Grvdit
are also granted on the sune plaoes. lliey may be obtained at the Qtf Offloc in Lott^my
or at any of the ftandieSt^Tiz. :-^
Westminster
Bloomsbnry
Sooth wark
Eastern
Marylebone
Temple Bar
Lambeth
Branofa, 1, St. James's SqnaM.
„ 214, High Holhom.
3, Wellington Street. Boroufdi.
87, High Street. Whitechapd.
4, Stratford Place, Oxford Street
21T» Strand.
39 & 91, Westminster Bridge Road.
Hay 1, 1866.
Wx. EWIKGS, General Manager.
BERLIN.
HOTEL ROYj^L:
Proprietor: Mr. 7BIEDBICH lAKOZ,
UNTEB DEN LINDEN, No. 3, and comer of Wilhelm Street
This Hotel Is in the best situation of the town, near the Promenade, the King's Theatre
the Museum, &c.; it is most elegantly furnished, and offers good accommodation for all
dasses of travellers. Saloons and large apartments for Families. Waterworks and Baths in
SL??^*t P*'**^ TaWs^hftte at 3. Private dinners and suppers at any hour. Good
m?S§(!S ^"'^ restaurant in an elegant saloon. Prompt attendance and ^ode-
1866. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 28
^1 ^T% „
\i ■^^'m-wmm-r^-m^rm^ ^
•'f
, CORNFIOUR
'^ Paisl«7i Haaohester^ Dublin, ft London. ^
>}•«
This favonrite article of Diet is espedally suitable for
PUDDINGS, OUSTAEDS, BLANCMAITGES ;
and| being very ligbt and of easj digestibility, it is recommended for
BREAKFASTS, SUPPERS, &o.,
for which it is easily prepared, requiring only to be boiled with milk for eight
minutes.
*
It is preferred for all the purposes to which the best Arrowroot is applicable,
and ]^repared in the same manner.
For various purposes, suoh as to thidten Soups, Sauces, Beef-tea, &&, it is
invaluable, and extensively used in all parts of the world.
To obtain extra profit by the sale, other kinds are sometimes substituted instead
of BbOWN & POLSON*S.
M HUSRArS HAKDBOW Ai^ySRnaKL Hif,
BONN ON THE RHINE.
■♦-^i
MR. SCHMITZ,
rapPRIETOR OF THE GOLDEN STAR HOTEL,
Begs leave to reoommend his Hotel to English Travellers. The apart*
gients are furnished throughout in the English style ; the rooms an
oarpeted ; and the attendance, as well as the kitdien and the wine«
cellar, is well provijed. Mb. BCHMITZ begs to add that at no first-
mte Hotel on the Rhine will be found more moderate charges and moie
oleanlineis.
The STAB HOTEL has been honoured hj the visits of the following
Members of the English Royal Family : —
{H. B. H. the Prince of Wales, accompanied by General Sir W. CoDUxroTov,
Colonel P0N8ONBT. Sir Frederic SrANLsr, Dr. AMOtnaovQ, Ber. F. C
Tahyer, Mr. GiBBS, etc
\M9 At»r 9n i^ K- H* ^ Prince of Wau» and his Suite paying a visit at the CMdm
1W7. Aug.^-^ artor flbteZ to His Majesty the King of the Bbloiaot.
185T. Ang.8 H.R.H. the Prince of Wales and his Saite.
iRSt Jnlv Oft i '^* ^ ^ ^^ Dadiees of GAMBBinoB and Princess Maxt of CA]fBBZD6*«
^ e accompanied by the Baron Kihesbbeok and Suite.
^M^^ Tnw •« i ^ ^ B- the Prince of Walbb paying a vttii at As Ooldm Star Botd to
100 J. d oiy av ^ T. R. tt the Duchess of Cambridge and Princess Mart of Caicbridoe.
( H. B. H. the Prince of Wales, accompanied by the Bight Honourable C
181*. Ji4y li { Gft«7, Gentral BfAjoiu Colonel ^vtoifsr. Sir Frtderie 0? akl9t, Dk
^ ARMsraovOk Rev. F. d Tarybr, Mr. GtiBt, ete.
TftSA Nov i H. B. H. Prince Alfred of Great BErrAiN, accompanied 1^ Lieutenant-
Aoao. «uv. , -> General Sir Fredericlc Srovnr and Lieutenant Cowbll.
H. M. Adelaide, Queen Dowager of Grvat Britain, aooompanled by
His Highness nince Edward of Saxb Weimar, Lord and 1^^ Bar-
184S. June 18 { rington. Sir David Davibs. M J)., Bev. J. B. Wood^ M.A., Captain
Tatlor, kc. &c honoured the above establishment with a Threk
Hats^ T^atT.
1818. Hay. • 'B.B.H. tbeDokaofCAMBBiDORandtniti.
1826. March C H. B. H. the Dulce and Duchess of Clarsnob (Ebig Wxllzax IV. and
and Sept. . ( Queen Adelaide) and Suite.
laiu Jnlv i ^ M: ^^BN Apelaidb, accompanied by the Earl and Countess of Ekbqu
xw*. auijr. .^ Eari and Countess of DBNBiOH,Eart and CoBntessHowi^ to.
1836. Aug. . H. B. H. the Duchess of Ou>uomtbr and Suite.
1837. July. . H. B. H. the Duchess of Cambridge and Suite.
1839. Nov, . H. B. H. the Prince George of Cambridge and Suite.
Vow ( H. B. H. Prince Alpert of Saxe Coburo Gotha, acwnapaoM tar Pitece
•^ AWT* ••^ Ernest of Saxb CoBtiRG Gotha, and their Snite.
iiiin C H, B. H. the Duchess of Cambridge, acpanptnied by tbi PrinoMt AiwuKA
1840. . . . .j of Cambridge, and their Suite. ^
1SA1 ( H. B. H. the Duchess of Kent and Suite, acoompanled by H. 8. H. the
1841. . . . .| Prince of Leiningbn. *^^ '
M4L * • , • H.B.H. the Duebcas of Camrrtme tad Sulla.
— .... H. B. H. Princess Carolina of Cambbidob.
1844. ... H. B. H. the Duchess of Cambridge and Snfte.
— ... H. B. H. Princess Mart of Cambridge.
1845. June .iH.RH. the Duchess of Kent and Suite, accompanied by H. an. the
1 Prino^ of LEiHiirGSV.
J84t. July i^' \SiJ^ ^^°^ *^ Duchesf of Cambbidob, with their Family and
189B. UVBJUT^ HANDBOOK APVEitTJ^SB, 25
MUDIE'S SELECT LIBRARY.
TOWN AMD YILLAaS BOOK CLVBS«
Book Societies in direct communication with MUDIE'S SELECT LIBRARY
are now established in nearly every- Town and Village of the Khigdom.
Two or three friends in any ndghboorhood may unite in one Subsenption, com-
mencing at any date, and ohtain a constant succession of the best N«w Books as
thej appear, on moderate terms.
Pro^ectuset, po§tag6freef on applicaUon, ]
MUDIE'S SELECT LIBBARY (Liimted\Kew Ojrford Street, Landon.
•«W««pi
MUDIPS SELECT LIBRARY.
FREE DELIVERY OF BOOKS.
MUDI8*S LIBRARY MESSENGERS call on appointed days to deliver Books at
toRisidences of Subscribers in eveiy part of Lnndcin and the immediate neighbour*
boodf Oft a plaB whioh has given genei-al satisfaction for manj years.
Frotp^atmeit f^tkige firee, en applieaiiom,
1IUDIE*S SELECT LIBBARY (Limited), New Oxford Btwt, London,
■ '■ 1 1 111 I I . ■ , ■ . ■ I 1 1 I I
MUDIE'S SELECT LIBRARY.
CBEAP B0Q1C8,
Pnrchasen of Bo6^ Ihr Public and Private Libraries, Merchants, Shipping
Afei^ intending Emigrants, and others, are invited to applv for the BEVIS£D
L&r of Books irithdrawn from llUDI£'S SELECT UBRART for SALE.
This List opnUins more than One Thousand Books of the Past «tid Previous
Seasons, out and unout^ at the lowest current Prices.
MUDIE'S SELECT LIBBARY (Limited), New Oxfoid Street, London.
MUDIE'S MANCHESTER LIBRARY.
NOTIOIR,
All the New and Choioe Books in circulation or on Sale at UJJUO^S SELECT
LIBRARY, New Oxfbrd Street, London, may also be obtained, with the least
possible delay, by all Subscribers to MUDIE'S SELECT LIBRARY, MaNCHESTEB.
Fr0$pe4u0$$, postg^fre^ on appUtoHon,
MUPIE'B LIBBABY, 74 & 76, Cross Street, Manchester.
26
MURRArs HANDBOOK ADVEJRTlSKR.
Vtf,
NOTICE
llfESSRa LETTS, as Agents to
-UI U.M.'t Board of Ordnance aid the Geo-
logical Society, have daring the last 40 years
been nnoeaslngly collecting the BK8T MAP3
from every awroved source, both at home
and abroad. The Tourist, Engineer, Bailway
Promoter. Merchant, and Qentlaman, have
all baen equally oooaidered, and the Adver-
tisers believe their Collection will repay
inooiring into its merits. The producUons
of France, Austria, SwitxerUnd, and Prussia,
with some others, deierve especial notice.
The following Catalogues and Lists (any
ooe of which will be forwarded on applica-
tion) of Maps embrace the selection of every
good Publisher in this and Foreign Countries,
reganllflss of nice or scale :-*
Condensed list of the Ordnance and Geo-
logical Publications, with Maps, Domesday
Books, General, Tourist, Geological, Llbniry,
OfBce, and Foreign Mafto. Ki^{Usb and Fo-
reign Guides, Atlases, Globea, and Ga-
zeteers, sold by Letds, Son, imd Co. Post
free, price 2d
Letts's Catalogue of Tourist, General, Geo-
logical, Library, OlBce. and Foreign Maps,
giving size in inches, scale of miles to the
mch, number of sheets, and prices. Post
free, price id
Letts's Condensed Catalogue of OMnanoe
Maps of England, Ireland, and Scotland.
Price Id
Letts's List of English and Foreign Guides,
and Dictionaries and Interpreters, id
Letts's List of Foreign Government JUp^
embracing the most important, id
Letts, Sok, and Co., Boyal Exchange, E.C.
COMPETITIVE EXAMIKATIOKS.
MR. COLEMAN, B. A. Oxon,
Author of • Notes on Mental and Moral
Philosophy,' receives into his house lo Pupils
(above the age of 16), to prepare for the
Kilitaiy Examhiations, the uvil Service, and
the Universities. References to the friends of
Candidates who have passed under Mr. Cole-
man's tuition. Terms moderate and inclu-
sive. Address, 24, Alma Square, Abbey Boad.
St John's Wood. N.W. j «-««.
OXFORD,
SPIERS MD SON,
108 ft 108, HI0H 8TBJSET,
Stationsss, kc., BT Apfoiktkekt to hb^h
The Primcb of Wai.e&
Respectfully invite TOURISTS to VTBIT
their Extensive Warehouses for Useful and
Ornamental Manufactures, aniuble far Pie*
sents and remembrances of OXFORD.
Copies of every published GUlDE-BOOi:
and MAP of Oxford and its neighboniiiood
kept m stock, as well as Photogn4>li8, Steno-
scm>io Pfctnres, Articles of Vertu, &c.
At the Great Exhibitions in Londoa,
1861-1882, Paris. 1856, and New Yoric, 1863,
Honourable Mention or the Prize Medal urn
awarded to th^ Omamaital Mnnnfiictnrra
Information relative to Oxford afforded to
strangers Tisiting their etti^Usbmaite.
FLORENCE,
p. ROMANELLI,
Sculptor, Pupil of, and Successor to, the late
Professor Bartollnl, has opened A Gallery,
Lung* imo Guiiwiardinl, Ko. 7.
ITie intelMgent amateur will find there a
Collection of Statues, both originalB and copies,
artistically executed.
PEmciPAL Works.— The Son of William
Tell ; tiie Young Fnmklin ; the Young m5i-
togtonj tiie Young Whittington ; the Young
Napoleon; the Young Moses; Garibaldi
THE
MALVERN
GLASSES
(Eye • pieces Stamped
"W. and J. BiTBRow,
Malrem." — No others
genuine).
BnBB0W*S XALVEKK GLASSES
Are the most charming Tourists' ^iK>cu]an
for viewing Scenery, iax They are Uglit and
handy, exquisitely dear, veiy powerful, and
do not fittigoe the sigbt
Price £i l3t, fid. in Sling Caae^ complete.
l/aiger dze, £6 6*.^ ^
Sent on Receipt of Post Office Order.
Address—W. and J. BURROW, Malvern.
N.B.— An Illustrated Catalogue of Bfaioca-
lan and Telescopes post free on application.
OALIGNANPS
NEW PARIS GUIDK
— — o
Compiled from the best authorttiea, revised
and verified by penonal InqMctkm, and ar-
ranged on an entirely new plan, with Man
and Plates. Royal l8mo. lot. 6ct. bound ; «
without Plates, 7«. 6d bound.
London : Simpkin, Maebhall, & Co.
ROTTERDAM.
H. A. KRAMERS,
Importer of Voreicn Books.
Mr. Mubrat's * Handbooks for Travellers,
Brasskaw's Monthly Bailway Guld^ Bax-
bbkxb'8 'Reischandbttcher,' and JoAion^
'Guides pour les Voyageurs.' always in
Stock.
EnglM^ French, and German Books im-
ported Weekly, and a great variety of New
Books kept in Stoie.
47, gKTiDBMCHE KABE.
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
By Appointment to H,Il.H.
The Prince of Wales,
ALLEN'S PORTMANTEAUS.
37, WEST STRAND, LONDON, W.C.
ILIiUSTBATEB CATAIiOaUEB of 600 ^TICLEB Post Free.
JlLLets hew
dbebbivo
BAG.
LASTS
TAKSBOBX
FoanuBTEAtr.
ALLEK'S SOUD
KAHoaAirr
DBESBIHEKOASE,
Allen's Barrack Fumitiare Catalogae, for
Officers joming. Post Free.
PRIZE MEDAL AWARDED, 1862,
FOR GENERAL EXCELLENCE.
28 MTOiUrB HANDBOOK APYSBTISBB. V«jf
SOLID MAHOGANY FURNITURE
FOR
INDIA, GEDTA, and the OOIOKIEB.
-a- — r ifc
Are Manufectnrmg, ESPECUIW FOR USE IN EXTREME CLIMATES,
which is entirety fret from Yenear. A geosml assffftment fllwaja !• Stoc)l«
ALSO,
wmm mm ^mm%& ^mmsimMm
Suitable for all parts of the worid. Their 9todc oonsists of 2500 Bedsteads.
» m II
HEAt ^ 0Or$ PATENT
HEAli tmA $0K hare Patented an Improrement in the ManiifiMittire of MattrcMS,
^ioh prevents tlra material from felting into a mass, as is tht OQse in «ll Ifet-
tresscs made in the ordiQi^iy wuf, Thft Patent Mattresses are made of the verf
best Hone-hair, are rather thieket' than wxuAt and the prices are but a trifle higher
than those of other good MattreKM*
uui ^ eor$
For INPIA^ CHINA, and the COLONICS, ^ Bedsteads, Bedding, t^ Mroom
Fttrniture, §eni free to every part of ^ vh^ ^ which there is Book P^s^,
HEAL « SOfi^
BEDSTEAD* B£lD]>XSra, JUTD BSimOCli: f UBNITUBE
m, 197, 198, TQTTKNHAM.QPURT-BOAD, KWDQS, W.
MORRArs HAKDBOOS ADVERTISER, 29
T^B PtJRHlsailtd Of BEfi'ltOOMB.
tJEAtj and SON hare ofaBexred for ima^ tuna that it wotild
■*-■■ be advantageous to their customers to see a much larger selection of Bed-
room Ftntiiture than is usually displayed, and that to judge properly of the style
and effect of the different descriptions of Furniture, it is necessary that each de-
scription should be placed in a separate room. They have therefore erected large
a«d flddttf«tial I^OW ROOMS, by which they are enabled Hot only to extend th^
show of Iron, Brass, and Wood Bedsteads, and Bed-room Furniture, beyond what
they believe has ever been attempted, but also to provide several small rooms
for the pui'pose of k^epitig complete suites of Bed-robm Ftirtiiture in the different
styles.
Japanned Deal Goods itifty be sttn hi complete suites df ^ dr six dtfifei^t
colours, some of them light and ornamental, tod others of a plailier desei^Mon.
SoiteA of fatuHilte in Pdished Deal, Oak, Satin Wood, m4 Walbut, ikro also set
apart in separate rooms, so that customers are able to see the effect as it Krould
appear in \htit own rooms; A Snite of very superior Gofhio Oak Furniture will
generally be kept in stock, and from time to tlnie new and B^eet Fnmittiiife in
various woods will be added.
Bed Furnitures are fitted to the Bedsteads In lai^e numbers, so that a complete
assortment may be seen, and the effect of any particular pattern ascertained as it
would appear on the Bedstead.
A very large stock of BEDDING (Heal and Son's original trade) ii placed on
the Bedsteads.
Th« stock of Mahogany Goods for the better Bed-ltxons, and Japanned Goods
for plain and Servants' use, is very greatly increased. The entire Stock is arranged
in eight rooms, she galleries, each 120 feet long, and t^o large ground floors, the
whole forming as complete an assortnaent of J^ed-room Furoiture as ihey think
can possibly be desired.
Every attention is paid to the manufacture of the Oabiiiet Work ; and they
have just erected large Workshops on the premises for this purpose, that the
mann&u^ure may be under their own immediate care.
Their Bedding Trade receives their constant and personal attention, every ai-ticle
being made on the premises.
They particularly call attention to their Patent Spi*ing Mattrass, the Sommier
Elastique Portatif. It is portable, durable, and elastic, and lower in price than
th» old Spriqg Mattiasi*
BEDSTEADS, BEDDIINH AND BSD-EOOM FUBIRTUEE
8&ntfree hy Post.
196, 197, 198i TOTTENHAM COtTKT ROAD.
W HUBRArs EANDBOOK ADVBBTtSEB. Uwj,
MATNARD, HAMIS, & GKICE»
Hilitaiy, Navd, oad General OotStters and Agents,
126, LEADENHAa STREET, LONDON,
MAYNABD, HAEKIS, & GEICE, beg to draw the attentioa
dF Trayellas proMeJing to the EtuC to their Establishment, to long mil
favDunUj known for tlie aupeiior quslitr of their aupplics.
Etct; dvcriptiou of Snppliei required by Travellen itlwBja ready.
BULLOCK TBDHZS, OTEaLABS TBUHSB, 70BT1UHTEAIFB, Ac
PORTASU BBDtTSAIlS, irith Beddizig, &c., complete, in Waterproof Yaliiis.
fOBIAZLB L&XFS. SADSISRT.
TUXIHfi APPAREL af every deacriptioa, mamdoctartd espedaUy fn Hot
Clinutea.
M., H„ & G. would tspecully Bolicit an ioapectioD of ttw following aitiolni
q>eciaU7 adapted for Tropical Climstei.
lEVntSFS ANTI-lfOBdlllTO CVSTAHS.
OAX CAHTEZirB, containing Break^t Serrice compete for Tvo Pnsona,
31. 10*. to &t.
OAK CASTSBH, .omlalmiig JimaVfas^ and Dinner Stntce amplefe for Tiro
Persona, 61. Wi.taSI.
nmlA OATJZE UBSXB-OLOTEIHfi, manu&ctured epecially ior wear io
Hot Cljtnatee.
n,AinnEt m asx Ara woo. bbibtb.
PLAHHXL OB TWEED STTITB. AUt-CHAKBBB HAtS A HSLKEIl
JWi Partkaian and Priced Lids upon application.
126, LsAi>Bm>u. Strbbt, LfHipqir, E.C,
1866.
MUKUT'S HANDBOOK ABVBBTISEB.
81
BOOKS OF TRAVEL, EXPLORATION, &c.
BEATEF TBACS8; or, Pen and Pencil Sketdies in Italy. By the Autiioiess
ft 'How we Spent tbe Sammer. or. a •' Voyage en Zigzag " in Bwitxerland and Tyrol.' With 42 Litho-
Kphic Plates, containing about tMO Gharactetistic Sketches of Oostames, Arehitectnre, landscape Scenery,
oes and Persons, and Inddents of Trarel, copied in Facsimile from Drawings made on tbe spot by the
▲ntlwreaB. 8ro. 16t.
HOW WE SPENT THE StmiEB; or, a 'Voyage en 2agsag' in Switier-
land and Tyrol with some Members of tbe Alpine Ohab. From the ^etcb-Book oToue uf the Party. .Thifd
Edition, re-drawn. In oblong 4to., with about 300 ninstrAtious, price Ibt. cloth.
ICE CAVES of EBAKCE and SWITZEHLAKD ; a Narrative of Subter-
ranean Bspioration. By tbe Ber. G. F. Bbowhs, M.A, With U WoodcQti. Sqvare orown 8vo. 12*. 6^.
TRANSYLVANIA: its Producti and its People. By Chables Boneb.
YnSti 6 Maps Mid 43 ninstratlons on Wood and in ChronKdithography. 8to. 21*.
THE DOLOIQTE MOUNTAINS. Excursions throagh Tyrol, Oarinthia,
OwiiMit. and Frinli in. 1861, 1862. and 186S. By J. Oilbkbt and O. C. Chubchiix, FlLOiL With
nomerons Blnstn^ions. Sqoare crown 8ro. 21««
OUTLINE SKETCHES of the HIGH ALPS of BAUPHINE. By T. G.
BoxKXT, M.A.. F.a.8., M.A.O. Fellow of St. John's Coll. Camb. With 13 Plates and a Colooted Hap
Post 4to. 16s.
VILLAGE UPE in SWITZEBLANB. By Sophia D. Delmakd. Post ^vo.
«*.6d.
THE ALPINE GUIDE. By John Ball, M.R.IA., late President of the
Alphie Club. Poet 8ro. With Maps and other Illustrations.
THE aUIDE TO THE^EASTEBN ALPS wtS bepvUiAed this aummr.
GUIDB TO THE WESTEBN ALPS, including Mont Blanc, Monte Boea, Zermatt, Scd. 7$. 6d.
: OUIDE to THE OBEBIiAND AKD ALL SWrrsSBBLAlTD, eicepting the NelgUnurbood of Hoote
Rosa, and the Great 8t Bernard ; «rith Lombttrdy and the a^inmg portion of ^toL 1$. M.
A GXriDE to SPAIN. By H. O'Shba. Post Svo., with Map, 15«.
' Mr. O'Shsa is veiy well qualified for tbe task he
has undertaken, and we rentare to say that for many
yean to oome his book will be the vcufa tneeum of
Fenfatsnlar traiTellevB. In order to sbnpUfy his work,
the Author has adopted the alphabetical amuige-
ment of his materials ; and this will be finmd of no
sUgbt use to the traveller, who for the most part
needs in a gnide.book. the most direct reference to
the ol^Jecta <tf his Journey. Everything accordingly
yrbkix it is dedrahle to know is here shown at a
gtenoe^ arranged in perfect order ; and it will be the
reader's ownluilt if he foil to benefit by tbe ample
information which Mr. O'Shea.'s volume conveys. —
BxAMnwt.
* Mr. O'Shea's is a lively and instructive yrotk. As
a bo(A of amusement bis CMde to ^in may be
taken up with pleasure, fur it abounds with gnjduc
descriptions and suggestive paasagee, and is full
everywhere of agreeable aasooiatkms. We may U^
wise add, that it alftwds all possible information to
the languid or valetudinarian traveller, who need not
exercise his focultiea from the moment he leaves his
own preside till he ii set down at the Pnerta del Spl
in Madrid, or on the Marina at Oadlc. Prices, star
tions, inns, TehicleH, all are diligently pointed out ;
and if after ibia th§ patient loses his aumeiy or his
way, the fault is his own, not Mr. O'Shka.'s.'— Iaw-
pox Betikw.
OUIDE to the PTBENEES, for the nse of Monntaineen . By Chables
Packs. With Maps, Ac., and Apma>a. Fcp. 6«.
PEAKS, PASSES, and GLACIESS ; a Series of Ezcorsions by Members of
the Alpine Club. Fully Illustrated with Maps and Engravings.
ITBST 8ERIBB. Edited by JOHN Ball, MJUJL., FX.S. Squans crown Svo. 2U.; or, lOmo. (Tnivtl'
UnffBdiiioH)6i.«d. |
t SECOND SERIES. BdK«d by Bdwabo Sbibley Kxsnxdt, M.A., FJLQit. 3 vols. Square cruwn
8to. 42*.
NIKETEE^ MAPS OF THE aXPHOS PlSTMOia flrom the FnMT
Passes, and Glaciers.' Square crown Svo. in envo!ope-i»rtfollo. 7».
id SOOOKD SfcaoB of ' Peaks,
Lwidon : LOI^GMANS, GREEN, and 00., Paternoster Bow.
i9 HtTBIUrS UAHOBOOK ADntRlUBB. TUf,
BBUSSBLS.
NEW ROUTES TO THE RBIHE lltD SWII^ERliUID,
TEE SHORTEST, THIi G^EiPGST, AND Q[JICKEST BOUTE
fnm Loiidan to tlu B»tlw at Oennuj, the Bhine, ud SvltMriUid (fU
BttukI*;, Oe KanM, and tbt XoMllft
ROUTES FRbM LONDON TO BRUSSELS.
IBgnm Jmn bBAn BOtat swlgii ■! 7*Uiiioni., •ada-NiiMi; Tldoili BmUa ul nm-.iirf
ai&it.wiDijnr>i>daiBi;raHkBniJau*-Wimd*'Mi>SSriuidt'4iun. ra^-ttct,al
liJitlUtliicDcTirMiJtMaiil; n»Ji BIiMh«a« ajftl-miij t-n'mom. rui— Ct 9l W. ,
BBUS8EIS, . as the Capital of Belgium, w now the centte finm whence
PwHurlud, HndFruH; ItlaAltaimBaJmmrifr plMe ^ rrffiH vilk Ei^iHA IrawtBrn fot mtU M rfrm
tugbmi. bn^l^Bla* IflBrt BrnBHdi •! t-BS, fU. and 11 xm., u^ M-SD vm^ mU KaltHi; vMlt-n
lajJaUMi » 11« •dvuugn <^lob BniMtaliDidiof baliifra^Upn«i4^£ta t^j^" ^ ""^
'^ BRUSSELS HOTEL ACCOMMODATION—
HOTEL DE L'EUKOPE, PUOE ROYALE, BRUSSELS,
KSTIII— ni>KuUI%,q^,Fn«ai>aiiiiua«>Uiaml1aiiniinUivullniMll.«iv>h^
1866. MUBBA¥^ HANPBQOK MXVBKTiailB. 33
FOREIGN BPOKS AT PORTION PfttOE^.
Ih^^ U
Travellers may save expense and trouble by purchasing Foreign Books ia
England at the asma pric9 at whicb they are ptj^hed in Germany or Franee.
WILLIAMS & ISfOkaATE
have published the following CATALOGUES of their Stock :—^
1. CLASSICAL CATALOGUE.
2. THEOLOGICAL CATA-
LOGUE.
3. FBENCH CATALOGUE.
4. GERMAN CATALOGUE.
5. EUROPEAN LINGUISTIC
CATALOGUE,
a ORJEWPAL CATALOGUE.
7, ITALIAN CATALOGUE. '
8. SPANISH CATALOGUE.
ANY CATALOOUte SENT POST-FR^ H)B ONE iSTAMI^.
WTTiTiTATWS Ss NOBGATE, Importers, of Foreign Books^
14, Henrietta Strebjt, Govent Garden, London^ a&d
20, South FREpsRKfE Street, Edutbcim^h.
9. SCIENTIFIC CATALOGUE.
Natural History, Cliemistey, Mathe-
matics, MecUeine, &c. . .
10. FORBKa-N BOOK CiDRCU-
LARS. Z^ew Books, and New
Purchaser.
11. SClENTIFIC-BOOBl CIRCU^
LA.RS* New Books and Recent
Purchases.
N 1 c E
▲in>
S W ITZ E R LAN D.
it90»
PJBN8IONS ANOIiAISES (hIAISONS de PREmiEB 0R]>BE)<
THE MARXNB VILLA,
PROMll^APf: DBS ;ANQ:^AIB,; ^ICE;
QRAND^ VILLA bARIN^
. ^enK>Ted item th^yji^ayifiocint^; and
THE GRAND CHATEAU DB PRANaiNS; A6. ftC,
NYON, LAKE OF GENEVA, ,,
Thirty minutes by rail finom Geneva, and aoo feet above the Lake, In ftiU view ofMont
Blanc. The Chftteau is veiy spacious, the apartments large and lofty.and the accommodation
Is of the first order.
EXCELLENT CUISINE.
All the above ESlidUishnients are ccniducted by the PropHetors,
MR A'ND.SlBd. SMITHEES,
At Kke Sn winter, and in SwitsAkteKl in iMauner, firam 1st May.
EEOBl
ToorisVa t Pauport Agene;,
SpKOYiL EXCHAHOF, LOSDQS.E.C.
MIiISSSS. LETTS' dnanu^ to impplT
taKiKMBg TnrtJIen «MKr tfarougtl
WFBRArs HANDBOOK ADTBimSEIt.
TEPLlTZ.
BEER PERUTZ ft SONS'
FLORENCE.
SlflNOB LEGA
IMA uit ■ilh Ftlntol WiiUiw&bkB. I
Boob of Tniel-Tilk, and DiulDurtak
KSTT8, SOX, «, OOw
e, BOTAL EXCUAJSOE, LONTOH, E,C, 1 p
StoXgnn* Ttmretlhis Dt* MJuBftclniire.
UlbognpIiEi^iiidiifniMlaHJLIwilor 1
Orlnun ud Uw Q«4Dsk»t Sc^E^V. 1 V
LAUSANNE.
HOTEL r>U BELVEDERE.
BoDtlAil dtutlon. 8rknJ14 vinr. dnmuniHiig the tdks aiU IM Al^a. CanfOrUble
LodKiji^ Chagniwidanlr.
FRANKFORT O. M.
MR. C.'X'lOHR,
VHB BOHAS SUPBBOS HOTEL,'
Btea ht mmaMM hb Bduw (0 b^U Tnttllera.
tW> Wn B^ vdVfttiMM EittfitWidM ft ow^oUd ttto lb buMdhU
lapeTiuteaJencc of the Fropiietor. and newlj fuiiuih«d with tnrj oonifart, and
i n?w splendid Olning-rcioia.
Tbe " Rohan EHPBHoa" Is often hoiiDared by Royal FuniliEs uid oUier high
ptiMDigea. Tbe filkwlIiB hsrc laUlf boBoand ibi* Hotd—
H.ir. THK KlSa AWD QtTEES OF WtTRTBKBEKS,
BM. THE gul^ElF OF ROLU-ND.
H.RJ. THE CROWN PjUNCa AND PRINCESS 0LG4 OF WUBTEMBEBS.
HJ.H.TiU;AKCHI>DK£Or ADSIBU. kc *«. to.
Tt|iMll;»laati, .Sfl. »»l[r. BreakIM ftSkr.
1866. lltTRRAY*S HANDBOOK ADVERtlSER. 35
THE CONTINENT.
COURIERS AND TRAVELLING SERVANTS OP
PIPPERENT NATIONS*
Society df Couriers and Travelling
Servants.
BsTABLlfiflED 13 YEAKS.
Patronised by the tioyal Fftmily, NobiUty, and Oeiitry.
12, BUBY STREET, ST. JAMESU
This Society is composed of Members of different Natiolis,
all of well-established reputatrbn, great experience, efficiency,
and regpeptability* . ' ; . ■ • ' ^ V : ; T
Cotiriers suitable for any country can be obtained,
Italians, Germans, Swiss, French, and Men of other
Nations, compose this Society ; some of whom, besides the
usually required languages, speak Spanish, Bussian, Swedish,
Turkish, and Arabic, — in fact, every Continental and Eu^opeajti
language.
Travellers for- any part tan immediately meet with
Coujciors and TravoUsng ServaAta an. apj^UoMtion 4^ the
Secretary.
COURIEBS AND TRAVELLING SERVANTS OF DIFFERENT NATIONS,
^ 12, ^imr STttEET, ST. JAMES^d.
D 2
36 IttTRBAfS HAN01SOOK ADVERtlSEtt. May,
BEBNE (Switzerland).
PENSION MATTENHOF,
EC THE DOCEDLITB TldMTT OF THE lOlV K,
Proprietor : J. STATJB.
'PHIS Establishment, delightfully situated, will prove itself
worthy of the patronage of ^iimUes and toanstt desirous of making an agree-
able stay in Berne.
Com^ntabfe ApartmcDU* fistensire Gaidens. Baths in the hoose. EngUah
Cooking. Moderate Charges.
Reference to the Beitisu Chaplain in Berne is kindly permitted.
GENOA.
HOTEL DES QUATRE MTIONS.
rpHlS HOTEL is one of the oldest in Genoa, and Is situated in the
-^ most central part of the Town.
The splendour of its Apartments and the renown of the cuisiw are such that it
lias fully sustained its old reputation.
The Pbopbietob, M. CEVASCO,
Bap a mmgmUkemnt Valaoe wltiilii a tow ICllea of Oetioat
Much frequented during the Hot Season by Families who desire the adyantages of
SEA-BATHIirO.
Th« ChargM are oontidered to be vexy moderate.
me. uoRRArs handbook advertiser. st
j THE DIRECT MAIL ROUTE TO THE CONTINENT.
LONDON, CHATHAwC AND^^DOVER RAILWAY.
LONDON and PASIS via DOTEK and CALAIS.
I TWO SPECIAL EXPRESS SKRVICR9 DAtLY. SHORTEST SEA PASSAOi; so MINUTES
TictoriB Btation. Weit End Cenirkl Temuuns ; Lndsaita Hill, City Tamuniu.
tipreti DaSy Direct Ftofd Service. itaasleiayuiiandSp<i:ial£zpraiTraini. DayligSI S>a ranoge
.fSSff.
Qmnibm at Mm. .— w» chMp.
Vii DO'VEE and OSTENS.
IS::
mi;
m
nil*
ilili.
THBOPOH TICKETS are iiiiiedjii
on!^vh^*^^bO^S TICEETB andJ^^^U
UDRKirS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
FRANKFORT a M.
FRIEDRICH BOHLER,
HANtFACTORl OT STAGBOIffl.
EeU JSq. H (next door Ut the Fcnt-Offleo}.
FcBWiTUBH OF KTBBT iMSCEipnoK, as BofaB, Chairs, TiibleB, fto. ftc. Obm-
DiLivai, Table and Hand Candlestickg, Shooting- tackle, Inkst^hiw, P^nc
knives, FeDholdera, Seals, &o. Kniteb, BmiHo-wmFB, Cigar-eafeB ud
l^lderg, Pijies, Match-boins, Porte-monitaies, Card-casea, ThennonieteW,
OoBLrre, Oandie-aereens, Fignres and Gn>ups of Animala executed aftar
Riedinger and othere. Brooches, Bracelet!^ Earrings, Shiit-pbia, Stndt, and
Bottom. Stas aw Deer Heads witli Aotlers attaclied Co the Skoll. Sob-
n>g» or Foot-olotha of Skins of Wild AnimalB with Head prcBervcd.
Ordcn for a Complete Set or for any qtiantjty of FuKHiTcm wiU be
pMBiptlj executed.
Tho AgmiB tn Londtm are Meaais. J. and II. M*^baorbit. 38. Qoecn
Street, CaoDon Street West.
HUBBAT'S HANIffiOOK IDVB^TISfia
FRANKFORT O. M.
FRIEDEICH BOHLEE,
Zeil, , No. 64,
dicht nefaea 5 dor Post,
Stonptl, bewUUgt nm B«ii»t . 4eT freien StAdt, Fnakfart
pENimus (0niameat4 Clooki) of every deicriptioii, V'jUBB, Goblets, Ahikiub
tnd MODEBN Statcbttu ukd QnoDPa, Gnmpi of Aninmli, Ikxitaitds,
paper-weights, Sso. fte., in 13t(ma», Out Iiiib, 6tXvmO-'p\»t^, &c.
Cbown-cbandbijess ; Branob, 'fable, tad Huid CandlestJcks, in Bronze,
Ac, i Lampa (rf tvegy descriptioii.
FoBOXL&iK and ^ritamiia-metel Goods. Llquenr-cbests,
Tbateujhq DBS88IKCH0A3SI, Railioad CoBtpanloiia, Picnic-baiketa, Tra-
Telling Bags, Bnuh«a, Cotoba.
WoBS-TABLBB and Boxes, TapeatrieB, Fans, Ball-bcMks, Smelling-bottles,
Opera-OIaeseB, ftc. &c.
Snperior Cofdea of the Abiadnb by Dftnneclter, and the Amazon by Kiss.
Qenuine Sita' de Calogne of Jean Maria Farina, oppoute the Jiilkihsplali:.
Tba &%mU in London «c$ Hewm, J. and B. H°Ou.ckxit, 38, Qseen
Street, Oaiuuii Btraet Weat
40 innffiATS bANDBOOK ADYBXTlSm. Uif,
• •
HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT,
NEAR DOPPARP. OK THE RHINE.
THIS Establishment is in die immediate heighbourhood of
the Rhenish Railway Stationg and Landing Places of the Rhine Steamers, and Is placed
In the most delightful and smiling situation in the whole of the Rhenish Provinces.
It is vefy close to C^l^leqts, Ems, and Wiesbaden; and it has been ki|own dnrfaig tbe last
as years as one of tbe Oni, most elegant, and largest Establishments for Onld Water Core.
Long experience, extraordinary results, diarming arrangements and luxury, and, above all. tbe
advantage of incomparable Water, has procured for this Establishment an European renown.
It is ewepialV. visited- by tlie Nobility of all countries, wfaa seek this plossant spot to
re-establiffl or strengthen their fkiling health, or to while away most agreeably the smmner
season.
DRESDEN.
h6tel1de saxe.
THIS celebrated First-lass Hotel, kept by Mrs. DOBN and
her SONS, has been recently enlarged and embellished, oontains 250 Front
Rooms, with 200 Beds» and is situated in the centre of the town. Table-d'Hote,
best in town. Baths. Private Dinnere at any hour. Arrangements for the
winter.
LAUSANNE.
Hotel Gibbon : Mr. Bitter^ Proprietor.
THIS First-dass Hotel, highly recotmnended in every
respect, js situated in the best part of the to^fn, and conunands the finest
and moot eitentive viewt of the Lake, the Alps, and the splendid scenery aronnd
Lausanne. The terraced garden adjoining the salle-^-manger is unsurpassed by
any in the neighbourhood, and was l^e favourite residence of Gibbon, who wrote
here his History of Rome. From the extensive Garden, which is tastefully laid out
and attached to the Hotel, the view is most grand and romantic. In fact, this
house will be found to give v^ superior accommodation, and to ofler to travellerB
a highly denraUe place of residence or of tempomry sqf odm.
yeniion at B^dno^ Priipeg toriiiytiie Winter,
DIEPPE.
HOTEL DES BAINS
(MORGAN),
FACING the Bea and Baths, of the Highest Class, quiet,
thoroughly recommendable. A lai-ge private HoUse also on the beach for
Families.
WIESBADEN.
HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE,; Proprietor, Jos. Bebthmj) ; near the
Pramfamde And KochtnrumeA. ^MhtenJ Water ftsths Mnipliecl hj ttta Kodibrmiiien t luve and man
ApartmeotB far B^uniliM, and excellent Bednxms for single GeuUeinen. This Honae has been known for manr
smntamg tte^Ute of Aiglltfi Vlaiton to WieBbaden, and it is ntlll etadnoteil in ita andent ilyla ct ooaStt
MdeteKMtee. HiirUyrtommendedbTtUBaatlMr of the 'Bobbin ihm the BriuuienaoirK^
Hanfflwot. Prtce ^ery modamte. After the aeaeon. Atiartments are let tn iMii Hotel en th6 aoiiB termsM
pnvate aiiartmenta In nie town.
MUBRAT'S HANDBOOK ADVEETISER.
D I E p p jp;.
GRAND HOTEL IMPERIAL
DE DIEPPE,
Charmingly situated on the Beach.
IT IS THE IfEABEBT HOTEL TO THE ENGLISH 8TEAHBRB ;
. OP THE HIGHEST CLASS FOB COMFOBT ANJJ
" CONtSOtlENOB; ■ ""■.■:■,.'..
SPECIALLY DISTINGmSHBD ip THE EMPERORS
ATITHOEITY TO BEAlt. THE 'TITLE OF "IMPEBIAL,"
AND BY THE BHFEBOB'8 AMWB.
SPECIAL TERMS WITH FAMILIES,
BRIVATB CAERIAQES MLGNGHTG TO ^TOH HOITIL,
The CoUu eonuiiu nrj Old ITiMt, tmd alio Wiaw U Firtt Qnalit;,
of tlie Beit VlntaKM.
Inclusive Tsrnu for tbe Winter Months (NorembeT till Jnii»), -
6s. 6d. per day ; ChUdren and Servants Half-jwice.
PRIVATE SltTlNQ-RGOMS FOR FAMILIES.
HOSBAT'S HAXPBOOK APVEBTUGB.
CORNWALL.
MoimT's SZt kbusE,
ESPLANA] OBNWAXiL,
Hub ilfuk
FIRST- HOUSE.'
NO expense or L by the Proprietor.
Thtlioaie Is foinlt a wfII supplied with Jlot
and Cold Batltt, and cc| n (aitible toe Toariits to
Wnt Cornwall.
4ll|lis.llr«irta(nMBsci*imaad)iii nninternipMd viev oFftgit
■ BeiKitHiu gen set lii tb« >|vit hs,'
St. Mldharl^i Mnnnt,' and the vhoU or the magnificent Baj-.
InTididi will lind in MoQDt'a Titj Houae ttn mmfoitj of a borne, wliile the
bnutj- sLd aalubi-ity of tbe lituation, its ti«irnea to the charming walks on the
ua-ibore, render it a healthy aal delightful i-eeidence.
The cluugw H* nod«r»l«r asd in>^ b»*lil>iM<lona|i(ili<»tk« t»
E. LAVIN, Pboprietob.
BRUSSELS.
English Reading Koom and Circulating
Library.
LARUES (late Psouemi), BodkJnller iXtA Stationer, No. 22,
• Rue BolliaHl, Qnartier Leopald. liftablithed aevenl Jan. Newtpapers,
Review!, and Magaiines for Sale and Hire, Engliab fuid Cootinenlal Qiudea,
PtrceU Iron Ijindoa weekly! .Onkn pronptlf Meouttd. I«i^ M*art«Ni •(
Eoglidi kad JAeralgD Statjoony. -
VICHY-LES- BAINS.
GRAND H6TEL BtT PAKC,
pEOCBiETOR, MR. GERMOT,
Oppodta tlte Batlu utd tli* Tark.
AS in Paria and Londm, VIch}- baa its Grand Hotel. The Grand Hotd dn Pare
of Vlahf, f(>rB<m&rt,*leg!HlM,(md ooDTenleMa, la equal touf oTUu krg*
Hotela oF Faiia oi; UndDa. Omnlbnt and Caniai!«i at tka StaHoo.
Separate Suites of ApiirtmeQtB for Families,
186^. MUJUUra »Aiq>BOOK AI>yEJtTWE«. 43
D^EP'PE.
HOTElTbO Y AL.
PAOINQ TH6 BEAOH-
Close to the Batbing Establishment and the Parade.
TT 18 ONE OP THE MOST PLEASANTLY SITUATED HOTELS
JL IN D]iCP{^E| commaiifl^^-ir li^pf^uttfui aod ei^nsiTe Yieir of the
Families and Grentlemcfti Tlgfting Dieppe will find at this Establish-
ment ?leg^nt Largfi and BmaU A^rt^iQnts^ and the best of lu^Qommo-
dation, at very reasonable prices.
The Refreshments, &c., are of the best 'quality.
In fact, this Hotel fully bears out and deserves the fevourable opinion
expressed of it in Munay's and other Guide Books.
Tabued' H6t€ <md PrivaU Dinners,
*■ I <■ I I.! ■■ I .) I
PASSAGE OF MONT CENIS.
•«i**-
stTSA rro ST. kicbel
(omd vice iwrsdV
MR. JOSEPH BORGO.
It .»>»<,«■■»-
Carriages can be obtained f6r the crossing of Mont CMnis, from Busa
to St. Michel, or vice versdy on application to Mr. Joseph Bobgo at
TUBIN— Grand H6tel de rEurope.
SUSA— Hdtel de France.
ST. MIOHEli^-Sailway Station aud.Hotel de to Poste.
Carriages of all lunds, to bold 2, 4, 6r and 7 persons.
TrAveliers will find this the most (nmUbrtable and leaat fatiguing
way of crossing this mountain, tba pasiage being made in the same
time Oft hgr the Oovmnm^ . •
44 MUBRArS HANraOOK ADVERTISER. M«y,
VENICE.
GRAND HOTEL VICTORIA.
Mont centrally situated, close to the Piazza S. Marco (without crossing a sin^e Bridge),
the j>rincipal Theatres and ,Ch^Fch^s.
Tlie HOTEL VIC FORI A, entirely rebuilt and improved, contains 180 Bedrooms, large and
small Apartments. fVirnished with every modem requisite, beautiful public Sitting Rooms,
Smoking 4n4 fiUiaid Ro<«q% Taklt^'HOte. Batbi.
Charges oomidembly moi'e rmderate tlian in any other first-rate EstaMiihnunt.
ROBERT STZBWSBSRGBB.
T B B X E Z S V 11 B B O V Zt,
Sixpence Monthlir^
Contains numerous Tourists' Papebs, Narrative
and Descriptive,
W»TH ILLUSTRATIONS BY E. WHYMPER.
•The Leisure Hour has every quality that shodld command a large circulation. TTie
illustrations are numerous and superior. Tlie contents are so written or selected as to have
a direct bearing on the topics and events of th^ day, and have a living interest for every one^
while its fictions have no lack of adventure.'— rA« Times.
66, PATERNOSTER ROW.
ANTWERP.
■o*
GBAND INTEBNATIONAL ALL14NCE H^TEL COMPANY
(LIMITED). ' "
HOTEL ST. ANTOINE,
PLACE VEZtTE.
THIS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, so well known to TEA-
VEHJERS, having, become the property <^ the above Company, has been
thoroughly improved and modernised. Baths have been erected, and a Restnomnt
established.
The extensive assortment of WlNES, many of which are of great age, were
selected with great care and judgment by the late Proprietor, Mr, SCHMiTT-
Spaenhoven, and have obtained for this Hotel an European reputation.
A Superior Cuisine and Ta1)le d'Hote.
Carriages of toery desdription. — Attentive Servants,
Beading Boom and fimoMn^ Boom, supplied with English and Frenoh
Keirspapers.
J
18G6. MURRArS HANDBOOK APy£RTI»£IL 45
M
H^TEL I>E L^EmtOPE.
HB. MONIEB, PBOFBIETOB.
This first-mte Hotel, mndi fteqtiiented by Families and Gentlemen* situated In tlie finest
part of tbe town, near the Railway Sutloa and Pfomaiade, is repleta with ev^rj camfortt
the apartments are tatefnUy and elega&tJty famished. It is ceiebraled for its oleanllneem
good attendance, and reasonable prices. Saloons, Reading, and RefteEhment Rooms ; Table
d'Hdte at 1 and 6 o'clock; Breakfasts and Dinpers at all hours. Advantageous arrangements
made with Families during the Winter Season. In front of the Hotel there is a fine extensive
garden and large court-yanL Baths and carrlagea in the Hotel. Omnitmses and carriages
belongbig to the Hotel convey passengers to and firom the Railway Station, i^f^sh, French,
Italian, and Garman Bpokea. Hoderata prioea.
MILAN.
Hotel Cavour^ 3?lace Cavour^
Opposite the PobUc Gaidena.
KEPT BY J. SUABSI AKB CO.
This new and magnificent Establishment is fitted up with every modem appliance, and
situated in the finest and most pleasant part of the City, close to the Station, the Grand
Theatre, the National Museum, and tbe Protestant OhttTch. The interior Is perfect, and com-
TOlses Baths on each floor, a ^noking and a Reading Room supplied with foreign newspapers.
f^ceUent Table-d'H6te. Chai^eevaiy moderate and affixed in each i;oom.
Omnibus of the Hotel at the arrival of all trains.
lEuiAger— 0. VMJiETTA.
D r J O N.
HOTEL. r>XJ I*A.RC.
PB0FBIEi0BS->BIPABD BBOTHEBS,
I£as heen newly Furnished, and entirely Uefiited throughmi,
SITUATED IN TSE; CENTRE OF THE TOWIJ. ,
LABA^ Al^D SMALL ^AttT^ft£MTS. OA^BK BBUIND TUS HOTEL.
TaUe-cPEote at 10 a.iii. and 6 p.xn.
CARRIAGES FOR DRIVES IN THE TOVyN OR COUNTRY.
N.B.—Aikfor the Omnibus of thi Sold on the arrival oftJ^ Train,
■ I ' I ■ ' - - ■ - ' ■ ' ' . . 1 '■ ...II,..
VIENNA.
A. ^"""^
tEOPOLDSTABT.
GoataiDB Two HundKd richly famished Apartments vaiyins in price firam 60 Kreutxers to
6 rlortns, together With Coffee, BUliard, and Smoking Rooms ; also Saloons for Reading and
RecKation, provided With all the best Journals of England, Germany, and France. Ppst
OAce, Government Telegraph Office, and Photographic Studio on the Premises. Restaurant
A la carU, at txieA prioed a( all iioura. Elegant carriages always ready for the convenience
of tmveUera, and Omnibusea conatantlv running to.th** Railway Sifttiona. Thia Hotel, the
Urgest tn Vienna, offers the most d-»imbie advantages to travellers, as, bnespectiveof Ite
eloelleQt accommodation, It Is situated In the nttost pleasant and finest part of the town,
Manacer* and JPropriet«r% fllncli aadltlaywr*.
49 MURRArs HANDBOOK ADVEBTlSB^. May,
ANTWERP.
HOTEL DU GRAND LABOUREUR,
PLACE DE MEIB, 26,
THIS old-established andHtgMly-'teoommeiided Hotel, which
has been ooosiderably enlarged, U situated in the finest and healthiest square
of the citytif AniArsr^; iti dlM^kieaS and l3i« eic&I!escy of" the ti^le-d'Hot^ and
wines, added to the attentien aad etrilftf ihown to all Tisitoi-s, have made it
desenredlj popular^
, ^ - *-, ■ ' ■ ^ — , , ^
ItOt ▲>!> IH>LO BATBg.
ENGLISH AND FRENCH HEWSFAPEHS.
UYON5.
QllAKD SdTBL DE LYOiK,
RUE IMPfiRlAtfi, AND PLACE DE LA BOURSE.
qiWO HUNDREI> BEt)ROOM», and TV^fiOTY SAt(>ONS, in every Variety ;
-'- Largt and tkxum AiMttaents fat fkmiUef» elegantly fttrnfaln^f Salooni ft)r Official
Beoeptions; Conversational au<| Beading i^nis; CofG»t,«iiA^BQl^ Divan; Baths; Private
Carriages, Omnibuses, Bestaurant; Service in the Aputments, ^ la Carte^ or at fixed prices.
The QB4in) l^Otfli DE LTON it too important and too wall taiown te reqniie i^}ii-
dlcions praise: it suffices to state tha^t it cop^ marly THREE MILLIONS OF FRANCS,
and that the accommodation is of so^ 6bbrfortinAeBn& Ittxurioua a character as to attract the
notice of all visitors.
^41t&ou|b i)ft <RA?|n HOl^ &£ LTOK atforda iSke^toAst elegbpi iftDzdbkoMbnibr
the highest classes, it is frequented bj^^tors p^ th^ humblest pretenaiona. Rooms at 2 frs.
very comfortably ftimiahed. ^'•i'. . ■
TAHLB D'HOTE at 4 fts. In fednsetiuence otfbt Proprietors having contracted wlfli tlie
Bortleattx and Burgttttdy Wlne-gtowers for supplieis of their Best Wine^ qualiUea of the
first vintages may be had at this, Hotel at moderate prices.. . Since the Hotel has been ia tiie
hands of b«w Proprietois, instead of a GooapaBj, the redaction th«y have made la tlieprieea
pieoludee the« from paylag Few to the Cab and 06»A Drivers atHie Raiiw^ Station.
Tif*vellefs are therefeM nquested to bear in mind that the Grand Hdtcl de Lyon is situated
^ ^^^^^.^ ^ *^« Itoplrlale 6ear the Bank of France, »nd o^jposite the Palace of the
ii
1S€6. MURft^T'S HAKimOOK ADVSRTISliB. 41
H6tel Klumpp, formerly Hotel de rOurs,
Mb. W. KLUMI^, Peopribtob.
#\>>W^V^ %XKy i^V/ \> \>V/\»\^ 1,^ \>A^V>-*
THIS First-class Hotel, containing 3d Salons, and 170 Bed-
TMiBBy witii a Mpfli«te Bmkfkrt and KMdln^ Rbom, i» wdl ai^ a very
cztmiivt aod d^gunt Diniof Re6m, Arti^al Garden oif^er ^ Ittrtr^ is Ailnated
^ipOHte the Balli and ConverMtion Hoom, atid in tb« immediate vicioitf of the
I^menade. It is celebrated for its el^ant and ooinAniable ap«rtmeat«, good
cniBine and cellar, and desenres its wide-spread reputation as an excellent hotel.
Table-d'hdte at One and Fiy«^e*^o(^ BivIIbMb «4| Suppers k la carte.
EXCHAirezr OlfFICS,
Correst>oiide&tr ^fihe'-^rind^Mtl BatakiDg>housea ofLondoir^if-fhd payment of
Circralar Notes awl Letters of Credit During the aiason it is the ofiioe ofiiie
Biligeftce to Pforgneim Station of the Baden Hailwajr* which learci Wildbad hr
the 0«rrier end Eipress TrMoS} afid retmns from Hbrsheim after thp (urtiTAl of
these trains. Through Tickets iasned, and Baggage Hegistered, to and from moat
of the principal towns,
DIJON.
HOTEL 5tJ JURA.
Proprietor^ fflB. DAVID.
<— fVN^ W X JKi*^ i< M irfW^|MVW>\
THE NAJCfeEST to THE RAlLWAr STATTOF, THE CATHEDRAL,
T^E J^^IN DES PLAOTES, AND THE MUSfUM.
L^ii and Smdll iijplarbuenttf, iSuftes (rf Boromtf for llu^lies.
WOKINQ ROOM.
READING ROOM WELL SUPPLIED WITH ENGLISH AND FRENCH
PAPJfiHS.
Tables d'H6te.
Carriages (Jan be hired by the hour. Omnibus to meet all the Ti-aTns.
A SPECIAL ATTEKtlOK IS PAH) TO THE COHFOET Of ENOLISH
YISITO&S.
This Hotels aotlt ttiki^tdy ««4iDuat to offsr tKtrwtellqnp aE ^ comforts of
a First • class Establishment. English money changed. English, German, and
Italian spoken. .?/ - :
48 HUfiRAY'^ fiAKI>BOOK ADVfiBXISBB. UAf^
FBEIBIJBG- in Bregj^p» Duchy of Baden.
HdTEL SOMMEB, Zahringer Hof,
Newlt built, opposite the Station; fisest yiew of the Black Forest and the
Yosges ; most comfortable and best house there. Baths in the Hotel.
Proprietor, Mr. G, H. SOMMER.
h6tel and pension victobia,
Mr. F. BEBTHOUD, Proprietor.
&TUi.Tso In one of the most beautiful parts of the town, near the Eoglith CSiaiidh,
the Bail way Station, and tteamers on the lake, havii^ the adrantage of a garden.
It particnlarly recommends itaelf to English families making a staj in 'Genev*.
Tahle-d'Hoto at % p.m. and 5 p.m.
BAPgH-BADBN.
H6tel de HoUa^de ; , Proprietor, A. Boessler.
THIS favoifrlte and flrst-class Hotel, sitoated near the Knrsaal, Pro-
manafle, «afl nmtn, ^onmumifc one of the moBt cMitnfaig vtewB te Btwian. Th< Incfmaa of Iwiiriii— i
rgnrteriiy it nmwtiy to enlaim tb» Hfotol, itnow oonairii of mot« than * hoadred akeping MfKtaMDtB,
elegant attlng'itXNhB, end e garden for the nae of vlslton. Comfortable Public ffittlng Booms. It b ooo-
a«oled .under the hB«iedtotea^Ma*««>denoeofttiePioptiilog,wbo endeMoai»,liytheinoetetiiet atteptfam
and eKoeedingly moderate prices, to merit the continiied patixmage of Bngiiah viiiton^ ' Tbs Ttmee ' mtM^
other Jooniala. The Winei of this Hotel are reputed of the best quality in Baden, flsod moderate dtargea
for eifetythiac.
BrealdSMt. Cati, 86 krentaen; 1^42krB. lUde d'Hdte at One. 1 fl. 24 kr. ; at IVet. 1 fl. 48 kr.
Mr. AvGvnvg, mnafaiing Mle Proprietor, will q«n no patnstp deserve the coolUenoe of Boi^irfi TrnwUen
Bngliah liipoken.
Opea daring tke WiHter.
^i^^""^w^
; . BIA.E|tITZ.
/
h6tEL de FRANCE,
And the magnifi£ent Maison Garderes.
Fbopbibtob, Mb. aARDERES.
rpHESE two first-class Eartablishmenis are delightfully
sitaated on the Beadi» in front of the Imperud Ch&teao, the Baths, and in
the oentre of the Promenades. They are furnished in a most superior style, with
every comfort and convenience that cau be desired by English or American Tra-
vcUei-s. Moderate charges. The Proprietor speaks English.
Cixtiaget fiar Ezenndont in ttae PyrtaeM and Ipaiii.
Table^i'Hdte. ' The Times ' newiiMper.
,4- \J XX X XN#'
GMND llOtEL DE L'EURQPE.
-- f - - : . . > ' ' -
Situate4i Hftce 4w CMte^i QPP9sit» the
' ' \
rpms tjmJftandd a»d ft^mirahty conducted Hot|*l
-*" has htim totirely i^efttmished to afiford gr^at coiflfcrt,
aad in the very best taste, and thus peculiarly reconunends
itself to the notice of ^^iglisU trayeUergit . ,
ByppwaiKT TA3WS J) p6i;E, at 5i i^VilQcJc
WtftbxrtfWlne, 4 fr. ; DiAnW in A^partrikentd, 6 ft. ; Bitak&st,
1
BBDUCBD TERMS F(Hl A LBNOTHENED STAT.
Interpreters S^;^943|Qg ftU, tbe |iBr(q[)ea^ Languages.
Vfl'r^^^'**^r^ ^^ W ^T *♦• ^* ▼" 4^ "^^
An Omnibns from tM-HlMl will be found at every
B
M jnrt«AT*S HAKDBCW* ADVERTISER.' May,
London and SomtkiWeiiteni Bailway,
LONDON STATIok, ^AyRLeO BRIDGE.
The Cheap andl?ictiiresque Boute to
P4R^r fiOUJ^, «ONFIJ)¥K^ ANR ajWi
(For Days and Bonn of Departare^ which vary, tee Monthly Time Bills.)
Jbrst tkrw^aut (London and Taxh)^Fan Clabb, 2f8/0; Sbookd Claw, 20/0*
Sehm Tldeeti (available for one month)— Frasr Clasb, 00/0 * Sboomd Clabb, M/0«
JERSEY, GXJERNSfiYjAND ST.islALai
* ^
Every Monda^^ ^etdsek^^ii^f^axid Friday.
Font (hreughout (London and Jersey or Guernsey)— 31/0 First ; ai/O Sboono Glass.
JUtum Tickets (available for One Month)— ftS/O Fibst ; or 35/0 Second Class.
Hie Last Train from London in time for the Steamers lea/vea at 8.80 p.m.
Ff>r farther, tnfor5M(tIon,anpIy t« Tfi^, p^ Vw^e. S.'TIaw VajdOwe, PMj%rr-Mr. l^Vg^M
ii, Grand Qoal, Him'^.--Sr. EnAnlt, Mon£ehr.-i-Mt. eTd. TA'CovMr, J»rty. ■ Mr.
Barbe^ Gaemsey. — Q^Uln Gai)^ ;8^ ^HU^^-^iH)!' torl^^ fi.^^. G(M^4 StM«i EaciBt
Stipetintendent, flbnthampton.
■ • • ■ ■ - ■ J ^ ;•■ ^■. .■■ ■ . '.
CONStANtiNO^LE.
THIS long-established and well-known Hotel, situated in the
GRAND RITE DE PERA, commanding a magnificent view of the UNRI-
VALLED B08PHORUS, h iiBpl«t& with ,eviBiy <i6Mfort tod *ohvitoience for the
accommodation of Families and Tourists.
' ' ' A Select Table d'H^^. '"- '■''''-'
In consequence # the largely kcr^asihg ftitab^ 8f-¥iiAoi4 to the OTTOMAN
CAPITAL, from the facility with which it can now be reached from all parts of
Europe, and also the passengers who s^ect this agreeable route to and from INDIA
and the EAjST, i^ is. i'^»^ted th^t /^iifis dpiropft qf .paring p&m ^egraph or
write in iiiindpiitidn.' - BWIfy '«ftteiAi6n will be paid id* insttwSofes thus trans-
mitted.
OAKinTLLY SELECTED IKTEBPEETEItS FOB AXX
The Attendants and Boats of the ^^kumt fhe arHval of the Steamerg,
1866.
JOTRRArB HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
51
TO CONTINENTAL TRAVELLERS.
DORRELL & SON'S
15, CHARINa CROSS, S.W.
^r%f\f\4\f*»\^f^r%^*.^0»
Bvery Infonnatiozi given respeoting Travellins on fhe Continent.
Frtneh and Italian
British Subjects visit-
Injf the OoQtlneiit wfll
save tronble tuid fi(p6na&
by obtaming tbelr Pass-
ports through the above
Ageocy. No persona}
attezulaDoe is reqnir^
and eoontry reddents
maj have their Pass-
ports forwarded through
the poet A *Pas8pobt
PsosPBCTUB,' ooDtainiiig
every particnlar in de-
spoken, and CoRsepondenoa carried on in eifker Language.
tail, by post, on applica-
tion.
Passports '%/lfbunted,
and enclosed In Cases,
with the name of the
bearer impressed in gold
on- the outside; thusaf-
I fording security agahist
{ ii\)ury or loss, and pre-
venting delay in the
frequent examination of
\ the Pasqwrt when tra-
velling.
Fee, Obtaininff Patiport, U. ; Vitoi, it. tach. duet. It. ed to 5s. eacK.
THE LATEST EDlfjONS^O^ HANDBOOKS.
Xnglish and Foreign Stationery, Dialegne Books, Ooorien' Ba^/PockeV'
books and Purses of every description, Travelling Inkitandsi and a, y»
riety of other Articled nsefal for Travellers.
^ I f I i ^^ ^1 f
XHJB A-XHUEN-aEXJlMC.
EVERY SATIJfeDAy, OP ANY BOOKSELLER (Mt NEWS AO^NTr
PBIGB THHMWFJBNOB.
JSacA Eaif 'Yearly VdmM complete in itself, with TUle-Page and Index,,
THE ATHENiEUM
JOCTRNAL OF ENGLISH AND FOREIGN LITERATURE',
SCIENCE, AND THE FINE ARTS.
Contains : — Reviews of ever^ important New Book-iREPORTS of the Learned
Societies — Authentic Accounts of Scientific Voyages and Expeditions —
FoiaifiNOositESPONpsNCE oa SQl:rjeds r^Iatii^to LittmMirc, Sc^en^e* and ^>
— Criticisms on Art, Music, and fcRAMA—BioGRAPHiCAL Notices of dis-
tingaished Men — Original Papers and Poems — Weeiput Gossip.
TSDB ATHEN2UX is so conducted that the reader, however distant, is, in
respect to Literature, Science, and Art, on an equality ip. point of information with
the best-informed circles of the Metropolis.
Subscrip6on for Twelve Months, 13s. ; Six kontiis, Qs. 6d, ' If r(Hiu}ifed to be
tent by Post, the Postage extra« ^
Ofioe for AdvectiiMmaiits—
20, WELLINGTON SXRKET, STRAND, LONDON, W.C,. ..
E 2
U XDSKArS HANBBOOE ADVIRnSBR. May,
JBST/VBT.TflHSD 1854.
*■ i '
THE OKiaiNAL SOCIETY
OF
COURIERS AND TRAVELLING SERVANTS,
440, WEST STRAND,
LONDON, W.C.
«>^<r^-
npHE NOBiLITY .%Qa. ftENTBY «re most reipeotfutty iirfonnfid tittt,
deeply ^impressed with the respomublc duties devolving upon Comiers Aod
Trayelling Servants, a limited number of respectable Englishmen and Germans
have formed themselr^s into a Society, to which no Member is eligible unless of
strict int^vltyv geB«nd 'is6)rQ)atiOQr ezperiepoe* and good * fat haviovr' to previous
engagements, which can bv aothedt&irt^ fay refbrdiuie t« SiiployerB.
At tlie same time they beg to inform the Nobility, Gentry, and Families that
experienced Servants d^ih^ ibpvf cl^S| o| t}ie highest charaptef Aud integrity, may
betngagidat
LEE ft GARTER'S
440, WEST BTRASTD, W.C.,
where a large collection of
MURRAY'9 ANP OTHER QMiDC6,
»IAPS, DICTIONARIES, DIALOGUES, &c., IN Alt lANGUAGES,
And everything mqtdnd by TrBveiiel^, Ukeptin'greBi variety,
ANO>L|,<tNPOffMrAtlO)« ABOUT PAisPOHTS CAN BE OBTAINED.
18«6. MOBKAra HAiTDBOOK ADVERTISER. 53
LUCEKlTE.
4 I
■ ' ttAlTs£Ii l^ROTHERS, Proprietors.
Best Situation on the Quay, -with splendid view of the cele-
brated panorama oCl^he^'-XjaJfie and Mountains.
»
THE high rej^tatijpn which thiq. estal^is^ment enjoys among
TiaveUei-s, aiid especially Englisli and American families, is tne best and
strongest assurance of its superior aii'nngenient and comfort. Its new immense
Bining-Jl^in, with j|<jyoiaiog Garden^ S^lop^ ^qd lavge P^*loar,.ai(ta(lt t^ !^ttdKtj||Oi^
of ereiy Visitor.
Bedneed Prip^a (penaion) are xuade for longer vmU in the early and later
parts of the Season.
CHAHBSRY.
' "*
Mr. CHIPtON, pROPRiETOB. ' '
ANE^ Establishment, situated upon the Quay Nesiij^s im
an open, airy situation, clo^ to the Railway Station, texg^ a&4 ^mal
Apactnaejits, scrupiUously clwn.
Table d'Hdte at 11 and 6 o'clock.
GENEVA.
' ' *»>
HOTEL I>E 11.A. COXJROIVPCE.
• ' ' ' ipRotTitETOR, Mr. CARL ALDlTSTGER.
T^HIS ESTABLISHMENT, of th^ FlEST EANK, newly
\ furnished ^hroughDUtj, ^tuatcd in front of the magi^ifkent bjidge of -^loivt
Blanc and the Engtish harden', enjoys a most extended view upon Lake Lemap anft
Mont "Bllanc.
BegUsti wd American Bewspap6r0. Table d'Hdte a4 1, 5| and 7 o'clock;*
Omnibus of the Hoti^l to meeli all Trains. ;
H DLOKRAY'S HAIilDBOOK: ADV.^TI8£B: Uajr,
P A U,
■9
EdTABKilS^BD IK 1852.
MUSGBAVE GLA7 A; CO., late YTM. TAYLOR & CO.,
19, BUE LATAPIE.
Agent to 6R the London Bii&kei*s. Lohdon Agents, The Union Bank of London.
P A U.
AVENUE GRAND HOTEL.
ON the FIRST of SEPTEMBER, 1865, Opening of the
Grand Hotel. Large and Small Apartments. 140 Bed Kooms; 14
Large iSaloons; 12 Small Saloons; 12 Dining Rooms.
iSonHiern aspect, feeing the magnificent panoi-ama of the Pyreneea. Strictest
attention to comfort. Neai* the English and Scotch Churches.
Furnished— VILLA MON PAYS, opposite the Chslteau Henri IV.
LUX3AN0, SWITZERLAND.
mtEL ET BELVEDERE DV PARC.
Kept by A. BEHA.
THIS first-claes HOTEL contains 150 Sleeping-Rooms anA
Saloons, all elegantly furnished ; "Salons de reunion ; jm English chapel ; nud
one of the most beautiful Gardens in the country. The Hotel is rery agreeably
situated for the two seasons. Duriiig the winter the Hall and landings are warmed.
Great improvements have been made since last year, by the addition of new Public
Rooms, and numerous Apai'tnients for FaHiilie-:, with evciy comfort desirable.
BADEN.BADEN.
VICTOBM^ HOTEL.
Propridtor, Mr. I^RAHZ OBOSHOLZ,
THIS is one of the finest built and best furnished First-class
Hotels, situated on the new Promenade, near the Kui'saal and Theatra ; it
commands the most charming views in Baden. It is reputed to be one of the best
Hotels in 43epniaoy. Tke Table and Wines are excellent, with prompt attendance
and great civility. Prices very moderate. English and other Joumius.
l&da. MimmArS HANDBOOK. ADVJBBXiSfiK. 65
' U - I ■ t — I
IRELAND.
POKTRUSH.
THIS Hotel is beautifuUjr situated, having an uninterrupted
view of the .^xlantic Ocean. ph& GiAjrr's GA^8EW^T, ib» SsMVsm. and I^dgu Fox^a
It contaiELS upwards <^ 106 ApartmeutSj -
Principally faolng the Sea. '
with Drawing-Boom attached, equally availaUe for Ladies and (Gentlemen.
TaMe d'H0t^ daily during the Season.
CaidM <likd Wines First-Glass. Tditts moderAfe. , Frendb spoken.
BUlUurd and Smoking ttpowa.
TrtE SEA BATHS,
Keoeotly rebuilt on the Hotel Grounds, by Mr. BapwN,^ wiU be fpond to 9Pntftin eveiy
modem inkprovement. Sejparate Apaf tmetite f6t lilies aad Ghmtlemen. Hot, Cdl^Shower,
and Douehe Baths. The Superintendents tn each Department being peopl^ of experience,
visitors to the Baths may depend'on ^every attention.
Extensive Posting and Llveiy ^tablishment la connection wfth the Hotel.
A Vehicle to the Giluit's Causeway and back daily during the Season.
Visitors to the Hotd art resjpectfuUy requested to be particidar in inquiring for the ANTRIM
AMMS.H&HBL 0mm(^u9i' It atttnd».«U Steamers and tMdm, for thi oowoftytmoe ^f
Passengers to the Hotd free. ■» '
J. BROWN, Pbopeietob.
Portrush is thf wwr^ J^wfj^^^ct^tothfi 0Uat's Causeway.
Tl/CR ,TmN^T, iJEOJ^OaiST, 149,,STBA$rD. lAN^QJf ,
Jjf. W^.C^nreB ^qcti(|r Ips&cdbn iti^ineraloggr aid 0e6iogv. 1 He daa4ilso&upi>ly
Elementary Cedlections of Minerals, Rocks, ^d JF'ossiJis, on^e following terms: —
100 Small Specimens, in cibinett tvjchihree'traysr. V ^ .... ii2 2 o
*200 Specimens, larger, in cabinet, with five trays 6 5 0
.|WI0p«en«ii&.flir|tiVjk»i»WHet;wttikiel|^dr««^ ^3« Vf' . lo^ir «^
400 &^)eclmens, larger, in cafaiveW^itb twelve di:awers ,,.,.. 21 0 Q ,
. MomedtfD4v% €k)ttee«onSi,ta Ultstmte Qsoiogy, at 50 to Ido Ouiiieas'eikdi,; witik ev^^
Tflrakite \o. a^t.t^ese. commtiaeini; the study ofthi^ in^re8ting.M4^i»cef a knowledge if
whlcn affoi^^ 80 much ple^ure to' thp traveller in all |Kirts of the world.
-•A CttllMtion fo^ KiVfe^ Guinea* wiftch vtiVL illustrate tire recent l^bricson Oeology fay
^■iMe^l, JFollest MilreWBOlg>PhiUipS,iMid cnieciaUy the new edition. of ^ydll's 'ElementSi'i
oontatjtt 20q Sp«±|ipB(» in A^tj^i^flt, with.^ve trwf, qon^riiing.-t^q foljpwin&.wli. >-
M^R^Et4i4 irmoi are eifner the components of I(ock8. or occasionally imbedded in them :^
Qtmrt^'iCgfl^'^Onaicedotiy, Jasper, Gai^et, Zeolite, Hornblende, Augite, Asl^tus, Felspar,
Mica, Talc, Tcraomaline, Calcareous Spar. Flm^, Selenite, Baryta» Strontia, Salt, (Cryolite,
Snl^mi, Plumbago, Bitumen, Jet, &c
In ATivB Mktals or Metalufkbous I^we^iu^ thfse are found in masses, in beds, or in
veins, and occasionally in the beds of .rlmr^^ S|kcMtns of the fdlowing are omtained in
the Cabinet :— Iron, Manganese, Lead, Tin, ZiiWj^Cppper, Antimony, Silver, Gold, Platina, &c.
Rocks :— Granite, Gneiss, Mica-slate, Porjmyry, Serpentine, Sandstones, Limestones,
Lavas, &c. ', i /•*;.: p * /) O J -^ n ; i ^ ^' '"^ I ^
Paueozoio Fdsmjs; ir6iii the- LlaftdeflO, Wenlofck, Ldifllow, DeVoriiait; ahd Carboniferous
Rocks. t .'. ' .: . •
SEGONEbiRYFosstuai from the Trias, Lia^ Oolite, Wealden, and Cretac^oijis i^^roups. - r
TnakAtt Fotsti^froDf ine'Wooli^ioh, Gurion.snd'BmekleshanfB^dB, London Olay, Crag, &«.'
In tibkeiSioi^ «2peQS&v« Gf^lections somis of t^ Spetiimens are rare, and all more select. -'
■ EanSir8IVE"Ctol2i£CinOF o^ ISmtt&ALS and dossils for SALS.
tT^rOolleiDClon; cobsisOhg of 3000 Sp6(AtAens, is in two cabinets, each OoUtalning fbrty^flve
dff^wwit ^t^ i^glAsfrLcaseoH t^ > topt for l^ge speoimensk price 20oe guineas; This ooUbc'*
ticn Is yrm adapted for any public InstitnlioQ. oi. persona engaged in ftacticfU Geology,
5e MXmUkTUUkXDWOZ ADTfimSWUL May^
— — — — - — — -,— - — ^— ^, ■ —
The. VQlgft Steam .^faidgatiou . Comwy.
Z8TABU8SSD W8.
THE fest STEA^t^BS, /CsskJ*/ 'Casal^ltgd/ * CzarevitcK,'
regular comnranicatioii
HffWm XBIY Ain) UMMtAH.
XtfOofn^ KIJNT— Svndayf and Tbqriflays tt 4 • +• # • * • l*o ?•>'.
,^ M«iid«y«a«l Frid^Al . . t- ; . .' . lO'o aji.
. ;, KAfiAN—Tnesdaya and Sfttj^rdays at ♦.♦^44 «» •,
BARATOFF— TU^rsdays and A^Ddavs at ,,.«.. i-jop.if.
Jrriving at AJSTHAC^^-^tuniays »nd Wednesd^ya aboat . i * o
N
j^^tti^itfr AsrttAC^AK^Toefldai^ uid SahirdAya at . , . . , jo xic.
SABATOFf—BVidays and Tuesday* at p . . » , . wo h
KA8AN— Mondays and Fridays at ,,»•», , 9'q „
,, Mondays and Tuesdays at . , . . , , , l^t'O
Arriving at KUNf oil Saturday aflemoou and eveniug.
f i^MUfMi pay embark mmI land at all inteniBdiata itatiaaB httwtBaiNUiiy ftnd AslMMlMin
-« diatanoe of 2166 versts, or circa 1500 milea.
■— .^^L 111 II ■ 1 1 ■ 1 1 ■ . — __
VBVAY (Bwltoerland).
F»»«-
^ii^'X'iEiL. ȣ o ist iv :C2 rr ,
Uumn. 8OHOIT k CO^ Praprkten, Md Smmmmm to iCr. MtlyMt
THIS tiarge^nd Fint^olasa Egtablislimeni, ntcud^d olose to
th« Lake/AflMs !3a|)^(nr aotx)mtn^t!Qii for f^tnitt^s aOd Cleotletue))* }t ia
ei^tensiyely patjrcmifed ^or iU comfort an4 cletoHnowi^ Pertotwremiuiiiog foB«
time will find tbis a moat deainble Residdiios; and from OotobiT 15 to Jutte 1 «li^
can lire h«ro fiaodemloly eH peMfonf Reading^reoni well aapjflkd wHh pmra.
i^ll langoftged qpoketu Salon for opnyemtioo a&d nmslci filmed aod Smokisg
Boom%t
■>*^*iW ill ■>*■ MiMi , ^g^l^^^^^^^,^,^^
SALS.
HOTEL DE$ TROIS ROIS.
Proprietor, Mr. WALD.
O^HIS ftndetit and jtuetly-t^nowned fliiatt^to EsteWiahmetit
-I- is aitnated on the Rhine, and commands an eitemi^e rfew of the Jiir% the
Beach Fojreat, and the VoagM, so tha* $he qre may jfifk ffl?.cMfPitl)r» tpevp Into
Switzerland,. Oeimany, aod France, the Houae ia comi<niablo in tvery mptct
BMhding and Smdrisg Roona pewlr arran^. Warm Batlir< Mp« Wa£D dma all
lA/ hie ^w^' to ^ndin-tiie wsjckrn at his hoQs^ i» dmoUt m ^<9mtJ)l« Tll^
OnmibuRsa of the Hotd an always in attendance at the Raflway iSiatt^.
^m. MIfWJiY'S JIAVOtoOtt AbVlBSlSfill &}
. LI I ^ ^J
*■ I
? f ' •
iOTBI.DE BELLE VUE.
r Proprietor, l(tjE^.BJ>3iiCAm> UftfiMSt.
I. k —
O^HIS magnificent H6t«l?4ft oftrlttg^to the Visitor every
being sitnatejl adjbiAQig ^ ' ' '
THE I^ALACE Of THE KINQ,
^ . ^. ^ vi4 fcpiflg , . . . ,
THE PLACE RGTAIrB AMD THE PARK.
It contains numerous large and small Apartments, as well as single
Tdbh d^Hdte^ richly seried* Uhoice Wines.
■ ItMAmglli llb«BI«:-«iMi'*« k«H MftWk, SttiiUNi' VM^ik,
Oennaii> and Amertcan Dallj Papen aad Periddlcals*
4^e^£U»0|||^ %it^ S]paendid View 6Verlo6king ^o i^ark.
■■ , . -
. ARRAKa£;MSNXS HAD£ FQR THE W3TEB, ,
> ■ ■■ « I i» » < II » II I »i| I I in II 1 II ^ 1 « » ^Jtittmmti
Mr. Bbemel, the new rroprietor of this Motel, hopes to justify the
e<Aifidelito^^aoed iA him/% h t^^Mfy; atiunged sjrstem of pkt)mpt-and
dvil attendMlce, (k)iii1&in^'With Ihdclerale cliargcs. '
58 MaBRArs HAKroooK My^rmcmuiL Mar,
By GEORGE S. MEASOM.
1. I«on4>n |uid 8iti|;k-Y8est|ni,'NortJi kiid 6o(itlij^«r(^/ dotn-
WALL, and Y^iST CORNWALL RAILWAYS. Two Hundred and Eighty En-
' ova SBSbUM. ^ ' " '- -^
2. The Isle of Wight— Its Geology, Climate, Antiquities, ftc.
he One Hondred Ekigravingt. 190 VS^ LetterpraM. With Mkj^
3^ The idtove two worka boimd together, with & beatttifm
Steel Frontispiece, and Two Mai>s, Sf^ 6d»
1. Great WesteiP Reilw^ 9M itfSjranilifs. .jpfe Hnndred
Engmvings. *l09J?pag5\)f itterl^rtel. -^-^'-^^^^ "»rT«
2. Bristol and Exeter, Nor& and South Devon, Cornwall, and
SOUTH WALES RAILWATa Three Hundred Engravings. 500 pagee of
3. The above two works bound together, 1502 pages, ds. 6d.
*'m, t
1. North-Westem Railway and its Branches. Three Hundced
and Sixty Engravings. OVB SBAWO- [Oiit (zfirM.
'. ■ ' . ' ■ , J. . , ■'■ • . '' ■
2. Lancaster and Carlisle, Edinburgh and Glasgow, and Cale-
DOinAN RAILWAYS On^ Hondied ^nd Eifiy flngravlngs.
3., Xha above: two ^mffcsr bowd together, IMS pasaa^wilh
splendid Steel Plate Frontispiece, 3s. 6d.
1. Great Norther^ : Manchester, Sheffield, and Lincolnshu^ ;
'' Imd ]lid0LAKD RAILWAYS. 300 Engravings, 'f 04 l^ag^ I'^tierfM: '
2. North-Eastem ; Korth Bntish; Edinburgh and Glasgow;
SCOTTISH CENTRAL; EDINBURGH, PERTH, and DUNDEE; SCOTTISH
NORTH-EASTERN; and GREAT NORTH OF SCOTLAND RAILWAYS.
200 Engravings. SSS pages of Letterpress.
OWB SBXZiXiZVO.
3. The ,above two works, bound tQgether,, 14^2 pageii and
ihagnificent Steel Plate Frontispiece, 3s. 6d!
1866. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 5^
*^^— ^'— ■- -■>-.--*- -L , ll.i -■■■■"■—■■■ ,
OFFICUL ILLUSTRATfiD RAILWAY OUIDE-BOOKS— con^mucrf.
] .
" THE SlStER KfNdDOM.'* -
1. Midlamci.areat Wertfroi and Dublin mid Prcqtbed^ Jtail-
WAYS OF ICELAND. OQC p«es. Two Hundrea and Fifty Engravings. Maps.
2. Great Southern and Western Railwaj of Ireland. 600 pages.
Two Hundred and Fifty Eogravingis. Maps.
8. The above two worieg bouHMl together, 1200 pages, 500
Pictures, Maps, Steel Hate Frontispiece, ds. 6d.
1. The South - Eastern Railway and its Branches. Two
UoBdred EngraviDc^ fl4 P4g«e Letterprees, abd ttemflftiL Mh^.
2. Northern of France, with Six Days in Paris. One Hundred
EBgravingfi, and i^lendid Map.
QfKM ftSZJAXNCk
3. The above two worka bouod together, 982 pages, with
Steel Plate Frontispiece and two magnificent Uaps, price
8s; ed. _ .: . r ; .; " / ^^ , s ' h\ '
— ^ — f — f — *j — t *--- :- ' ^ _
1. Great Eastern Railway ~. Gmbridge Line. . 6Q0 pages .
Three Hiq>die4 Boptrtost. (Two IjoaOtif^ Map^-
owB sknb&na avb szxvaBvcB.
2s Great Eastern Railway — : Colchester Line. 600 pages.
Three Hundred Engravings. Two beautiful Maps.
ovB mmxsBtua aha axxBtofcm.
3, The above two woriks bound together, 12Q0 pages^ 600
Pictures, Maps, Steel Plate Frontispiece, 3s. 6d.
MESSRS. C. GRIFFIN & CO., Stationers' Hall Court, Paternoster Row.
%* Mr. GEOBOE S. MEASOM will feel obliged for any local information of public general
itaMrest* tat emhodimeDt in ftiCoro edlttong of the altote ^rkfl.
do Hv^aiir'a eakdbook ADVEKtu^^ [luari
FUORENCE-
BRIZZI AND NIOOOLAI'S
PUXtOTOttfPES, ofrmnvtil! VABMK6,
ton, SALfi AND out dltlE.
QEN€ML-5B>Qnr FOR W»fM»mi^UMl!flTS.
Xtallan and Foreign BKiislo.
J^tttifni JAMi>i/ttp Jfibfidfp. ,
■ ■ ■■■ ■ I. ■
PtmA MADONNA. _ I BKANCHHOtJSB (Mrato Cei-St),
PALAZZO AlpDPB%^)iPiin, . .J . . . )«, YU CtSKKTAML
HOTEL BELLE VUE AtJ LAC.
Proprietor : C. GUTEB.
THIS splendid and admirably cotidttoted estabHihment, situ-
ated on the shore of the LakajMNNDKMlAlqrlts OPMifuaed potiltioa, the best view of
the Lake, Alpe, and Glaciers, and offers, by its superior internal arrangements, the comforts
of Private Apartments and Public Parlours, with careful, dvii, and quiet attendants— all
<<wlr>il»ln attnotifliis to ti)»feU«ts m a pUM of rei^oKtel^ of teifipef^ry pctjourn.
Pension at reduced prices, and arrangements made /or/a«)iiiiM/ron» Octobsr io Jidjf.
Notice. — 19^ Apmatkktmm ftuiiilf tke Eiake.
h6tel d^italie.
Madame I*. TEA, Proprietress!
Via del CAinpo» No» 10*
cleanest, best situated, and most comfortable in Italy. It bas
been filt^ up with tbe greatest care, and in such' a toahnef as t©
secure evety possible convenientJe and luiUry.
The front windows command a splendid view of the Harbour
and City.
English, French, and German spokeU.
^able-d'hdte at 4 fianos, and all other chaargesstritttly moderate.
The Hotel Omnibus attends the aMral of every Thfcim
urn. HURRAT'S HAKBBOOK ADTERriSER. 61
■ ■- I ■ I ■ ■ I I I. . . . ■ I I ■ ■ . . ■ .1 ,
LUCHON (BAONtfttS DE); PYRENEES.
*i la
Grand Hotel Bomie^MaisoE et do Londre«fi
Mr. VIDAL, Jun., Prc^ietor.
I^taated opposite the Thermid Establishment or Bath*room8. This favounte and
first-rate Hotel affords extensive aOOQ(t£kni9fla^a of the best description for a large
number of visitors. It4| deyg|^tA4)7 si^ttjtted^ fUid WiU be found most comfoi*tabl«
for Families or Qentlon^en,
-ilJ),^!. Hf
BRUSSELS.
Kl |i I I
THE GEAND h6TEL DE SAXE, Eue Neuve, 77 and 79,
Is admirably situated, zitar tbe ^MUeva^ds^'Thfatl^ and Railway Stations. Fixed
prices r—Breaklast, lif. ; Table^l'bdte at 6 o'clodc, ST. ; Sitting-rooms, 3f. to 10£ ; Bedrooms
lit to 3t Excellent wines and good atteadaiioe. The English foor-horse mail-coach starts
from this Hotel fyr. Wfrterjpp eyery ff^^UBIf ftt feftlf-pvt P^jae^ *-i,i.ALL "
.'^ f PI'"! '»'i»iii ■;' I I I 1 |i ■ T T ' r'' ; '" 4< ' i
HOTEL GEANDE BEETA0NAi
YXATOWirO.
Near the Cathedral, in the centre of the CSiy.
This old-established Hotel, much improved of late, is dean, comfortable, and
with moderate charges, cloe^ to the fioglish Church. I^ewspapers (* The Times '
and * Galignani ')j^Table-d*hSte, and |taths. Kbglish spoken.
N.B. — The "Omnibus of (^^ Hotel ^ {dwftjs io ftttW^aoo^ at the Railway Station.
■'■ ' • ... — ■ - ^ — J- — ' ■'■ — _____ — __
IVIILAN.
HOTEL ST, MARC,
iS, RUB BEIi PfiftCB.
KEPT BY ALEX. BAZZI AND SONS (JOSEPH AND JEAN).
n^fllS Hotel i« situated close by the Post, the Cathedrajl, the
A Thttitre, and Roj^al Palace, attA effers every ac^iotnmodation and comfort for single
travellers and families^ Large and small Apartments and single Bed-rooms. Table^'HMe
Private )>inner8 and it la Carte, at moderate prices. Reading-room supplied with Italian
Engli^ French, and German n^w«paper»., ^ni^naHinent forjunilies can be made. French,
English, and German spokoii - amnums at tb» Kallway Station belonging to the Hotel.
Pension in Winter.
VIENNA, ,
HOT€U lyiUNSOH.
TPHjS Jlotel ia ackttgpflpte¥^i4 ]buU#ig, a first*rate Establisbmjent, very
JL mucli freqnentecl tiv llnglish tniTeuera. sitnaiad cm tbd New Marliei, close to the Impdritd IPalaoe and
tte flmtreit^ oontaias rainy atMtas«oa«i«. iairn and «madl4mrtzneitto, •n<I bathfookui, «d4 H tarnUhed in
a moat elegant and comfortable rtyle. • The TImeu ' and • Galii^anl'R Me^ienger ' are taken in, be»ldM the
best French and O^rnian tMvraiaiiiiteB. nie Otaiitf^fUMn la the noat tbedtoai ahd latadsonia in yiKOfm
Excellent cainine. Oinnen d la enrte at any honr. KigiiMt spoken by all uie serrants.
62 MUBRArS HANDBOOK ADVI^tTISBR. M«r,
HOTEL P£ FRANCE,
KEPT BY ISOTTA BROTHEES.
LABGEand small Apartments, Tableni'hote, Private Dinners
at a fixed price, <y i la CWh. Eoiuitng aqd Oonversatioii Booms. Baths. Onmibns
for all the trains.
GENOA.
h6tEL NATIONAL,y
KEPT BY ISOTTA BROTHERS.
SUITES of Apartments aB^d Swigle Booms, Table-d'li6te, Pri-
vate Dinners at a fixed prloe, or It la Omie. Siths. Advantageous terms for a long stay.
Same House at Naples, H6tel de Geneve, Place Medina.
H^lDELBERQ. "~~*~
.A
F
F9N9IOM AND HOTEL DE RUSSIE.
Pbopeiktob— WILH. WETTSTEIN.
I 1 ■ «
PlMnatlj litiiated on the Anlage (PaUio FromenidB).
<2entftm9 -la»et-ftnd smBil Ap^rtjpom^ of alj 4as^ptioD8
fbr fkniines hnd single gentlemm. A 'beaQtifdl garaen. All sorts of B«ths
attached to the house. English papers. Piano. Board and Lodging, 4, 5, and
6 francs a daj.
HEIDELBERG.
PRINCE CHArLeS hotel.
(In the Market Place, nearest to the Castle.)
WITH THE BEST VIEW OF THE RUINS.
THIS first-class Family Hotel, patronised by their Eoyal
Highnesses the Prince and Hriocess of Wales, And Prince AUrcd, is without question
the largest and best situated fetitUibhtuent In the town ftr families and individuals who visit
the celebrated Castle, or makuic a longer stSQ^, beiing neat'dl itie attractive pointa, and at the
foot of the Castle. It contains large and small apartments of all descriptions ; its rooms are
light, atry, cbeerftiVAnd truly comfortable; uA ibk Hotel Is conducted on the most liberal
Botle under the personal superintendence of the Proprietor, Mr. C. H. SOMM^K. Superior
TaUe-d'hOU atb 1 Cp.m. and 6 tm. Wartn BaOts in the BofeL Reading-toom ftappUcd wltli
liondon * Times ' and ' Galignani's Messenfer.' Two Pining-room* (in one of them no gmoklqg
aUowed> Fresh trout in the pond. Pric^ moderate., < English spciken.
HEIDELBERG.
h6t£l de teiirope.
A MAGNIFICENT first-class Hotel, close to the Railway
•^ Station, provided with 'eVeiy fe^sh comfdrt, knd surrounded by private
4nd puHrc gai-dens. The Proprietor, MB.'HJEFELI-CnJ7E&j formerly partner at
the Swan Hotel, Lucerne, feels confident that the ari-ang«nient« of this Hotel wiH
secure the approval of all who may honour him with thoir patronage.
. inrRRXrS'HAHDBOOE ADVERTISER.
Th« jtfa^ificfent |rBfi(aaa^ ?ate|, recdtiay. *!(#Btroofed.»iid
elegaiitiy fohfisbe^ in* the newest'and nloSt foabionbUe 'st^le,
surroiiDded hy gaixle^, jps^fiea the pTf^er^cjQ ac,CQrded to it
by FamiGes and' Gentlemen for fbe splendoiir and' comfort of
itotA:partiffioUrits.exccJlwt /C^iniiHi,' and' tbe one nod titt»-
tdon shown to all T^ho hpnpor tbe Hotel witb the^ patronage.
LABQE AND SUALL iLPABTHBKTB, AND SIHOLE
BOOHS, AT MODERATE CHABQES.
>RItATE RESTArftAWT.
SPLENDID COFFEE-ROOMS, SAL00N8, READIND AND
i J ; . SKOKIKI ,RO«)|l^ , O"
USTVeSrBOT. .intejCpkbtbbs,,
HOESES, ELEGANT CARRIAGES, OMNIBUSES
HnBUrS HANDBOOK ASVEBTIBEB.
Jnit pabliahad, piic« 8i., jDipei-Ul Svo.,
SWISS PICTURES.
DRAWN WITH PEN ANP PENCIL.
Witb man than On» Hcmdred lUnsbirttou
Br m. E. WHBIPEE, TKGS.
jSW ty oj; BodluelUrs.
HOW TO KKEP WELL
Ii tbe problem vhldi (U of n> mnrt lolve KDie how or inotlier ; and U diJHH wilt titiefc
ni do wbm w» «n (• mhM tt to •■•ntiDg pnn •!>, (eedMdjSin, onr only cluoceof
takilDcgood baiLlli snue itsptDIt npofl ■ aim rcracUr. 'fflen— ifhtl rematr; TlieniKiil
iroi™ or the pnbllc (or many jpirs bu repllal PAHR-3 UFK PU.LS,^SiSi no dlHue kui
e«r «^l*d, u proTtd ty lb*1r wondortDl eBcmy In ill illsHilf n of Ibe Stonuch, tbr Uier .
2[aj> b* bMlr at wv abmiat.
1866.
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
«5
RECONNOITERER" CLASS
4;
THIS WIDELY BBSNOWNED
TOURIST'S FAVOURITE"
Distinetty shows Small Windows 10 Miles off. Landscape at 80 Miles,
V^ms in CrMcent, Mountadn$ of the Moon, Jupiter's Satellites, ike.
Mabquts or Caiw ABTHSN T * Th« Reoomiofterer Is vwy good."
Earl of Caithnbss : " It is a beautiful Glass."
Eabl ow Bkiui^a£6an9: '* I find it all 70a saj^ and wonderfoUx power0il for «o verf small
a Glass.'*
Lord Garvaqh : " It is remarlcably good."
Rev. Lori> Soarsdaia ** qppi»»«B of it."
. Lord Oifford : " A moBt useftil Glass."
Sir Diobt Catlet : '* It gives me complete satisfaction, and is wonderfalljr good."
Sir W. H. Fieldrn : ** For -its siw, I do not consider it can be surpassed. It gives great
satisfaction."
Major StaRXS^; of WV«r)lmr3[^7 ** Quite as powerM as that fopirhicb I nve 61. 6s."
Capt. Sendkt, Royal Small Arms Factory, Enfield : " I have found it effective at the
lOOO-jrards range."
F. H. Fawkbs, of Famley, Esq. : •• I never before, although I have tried many, met a Glass
combining so much power, for its sixe, with so mudi clearness."
Our " Archbrt GoRREarovDEKT " (Oueen) s^ys that " the, portability. of. the Reconnoiterer
Glass is not Its least re<%nHnendation; wliile its adaptability tA uses in which protracted
and minute observation of arrows entering various ranges at different distances is abso-
lutely neceraary, as In archery matches, renders the Reconnoiterer one of the best aids to
visual power ever placed at the command of toxophilites."— QtK^n.
•• The economy of price is not procured at the cost of eflBciency. We have carefully tried the
instrument at an SOO-yard rifle range, against all the glasses possessed by the memberi*
of the corps, aiid found it fully equal to any of t^iose present, although they had cost
more than four times its prloe."-^7'Ae Ftdd.
'*,What Tourist will now start without such an indispensable companion?" — Notes and
Quei-ies.
The eektrratei " HTTHE" Glau thowi Bullet Marks at 1200 Fardi, and Men at 3| MiUs,
Price 31*. ed.
%* These Glasses form the very best Tourists' Companions that can possibly be selected, and
accordingly the number annually sold for the purpose is enormous.
All the above, respectively bearing the Registered Trade-marks, "RECONxorrERER"
and " Httbk," are only to be had direct from, and by written application to,
SALOM & CO., 98, Frince's-street, Edinburgh^ and
137, Hegent-street, London^ W.
A few "hours suffice to carry a " Eeconnoiterer " to almost the renuiiesl Post Town in
the Kingdom, Most positively, no Agents qf any kind anywhere*
es MITRBArs HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. Mbt,
Iiondon, 1861 a Is, and I>nblin.
FRY'S iiATE,
POB lATlHO AITD FOB THE TABLE,
rRY'S CHOCOLATE CREAMS
FRY'S CHOCOLATES u< »U Is ftncT btatt, vgiy niUble Ibi PtaeMm uul ccnmikU
FETS HOMEOPATHIC COCOA
ii distlngvlolKd by lis purity, delicacy of aLroiu, ind nnlrtUimi propanie*.
FBY'S Solaljle Gliocolate, secured in tin-foil paokata, io well
adapted tot Travellera.
J. S. FRY AND SONS, BRISTOL AND LONDON,
UannfactnrerB to the Queen and Prince of Wales.
NEW ILLUSTRATED BOOK ON SPAIN.
TEAVELLINa IN SPAIN
IN THE PBESENT DAT,
By HENKY BLACKBOBN.
-Bring in AccoDntot the JoDnny of BFartrof Ladin andOentlFDHn vba lUely rMM Hi
principal Citln.
With nnmero™ ILLnaTHiTrONB. from Photogripha ud Dtairingi from Life, by
JOHN PHILLIP. B.A., E. LTrHDGREN, WALTER SEVERN,
and the Anthor.
^l» in APPENDIX oT BOCTE^ FARES, ftc.i the EXPEKSES ot (be Jonn»r, lod i
tXW Aip of SplilL
LouAoa : SAMPSON LOW, SON, & MAESTON,
MlltoD House, Ludgate Hill.
1866.
MUR&AT^ HANDBOOK AD7ERTISER.
67
AU BON MARCHE,
AND
Dfi SaVRES, 20/ 2% 24
(FAUBOURO ST. GERMAIN),
PARIS.
EXTENSIVE WAREHOUSES
FOR
IE
I
I
IL
AND
TicL
m
Acknowledged the most worthy of the Sign of the House,
by the quality and reed Bon Marche of every
article sold.
The system of Selling every thing Cheap» the Quality of which, may
be entirely relied on, is absolute in this Establishment, and one i\hich
ensures the continuation of a success hitherto ^n^ithout precedent.
N.B. — Should Customers purchase Goods and he dtssatinfied with them
afterwards, the same will be exchanged^ or retaken if desired*
r 2
68 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. tfaf,
GENEVA.
No. 2, PLACE DBS BERaUES.
■0
GEO. BAKER,
ENGLISH CHEMIST & DRUGGIST.
PRESCRIPTIONS CAREFULLY PREPARED. ALL KINDS OF PATENT
MEDICINES AND PERFUMERY.
Eomoopftthie Proparfttioiii. Soda and Saratoga Water.
Owing to tbe facilities accorded by tjbe ♦ Fostes Fid^raUs^ Medicines
and Preparations of all kinds are forwarded with the greatest despatch
and safety to all parts of Switzerland and the Continent.
QENEVA.
HOTEL DE LA METROPOLE.
CONDUCTED BT ME. WILLIAM WOLBOLD.
This large and excellent Establishment, situated in the most favour-
able quarter of the town, opposite the English Garden, and near all the
principle edifices, enjoys tbe finest view of t^ Lake, in its Ml extent,
and contains 200 most el^antly furnished Bed and Sitting-rooms in
every variety.
A beautiful Heading-room, where all the chief English, American,
French, and German Newspapers are to be found, with a spacious Coffee
and Smoking-room ; in shorty every comfort travellers may expect from
a first-rate Hotel, is at their disposition.
The House, by its good ventilation, is exceedingly cool in summer,
and in winter is well heated by lai^e stoves.
Charges very moderate, and Pension during the winter.
Table-d^6te three times a day, at 4 fcs. each person, at 1, 5, and
7 o'clock.
Omnibuses belonging to the Hotel to and from the Station for every
train.
Piivate Carriages and Cabs always ready.
UH. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 69
N.B,—The NEW STATION at CBAfiINO CROSS, WEST-END, it NOW OPEN fw
3Vxi^e, qhA the Continental MsUl Trains atnd ftdal Train* nin to and from that
Station, oMing at London Bridge each way, and the new Station at Cannon Strtet
vjitl thorUy he completed. |
LONDON AND PARIS
m 10 HOUBS,
By die Accderaied Special Express Daily Dived Tidal Serviee^
VI4 FOLKESTONE and BOULOGNE.
THE CHEAPEST, QUICKEST, AND SHORTEST ROUTE.
A Through Night Service between London and Paris,
Ytt FOLKESTONE and BOULOGNE.
Itfrnoi0^qfl>qMrture(whi(^aretariable),qfboththeabowSe^
Also by the Mail Trains and Packets via Dover and Calais
in 10} Hours.
SIX THBOV9B 8BSVZCB8 BAZ&T BT TXB 8BOBT 8BA
The Hail Trains of this Company, conveying by special appointment the Continental MailSt
ran to and start from the Mail-Packet Side on the Admiralty Pier at Dover.
To avoid Inoonvmience from examination en route. Passengers sboald be careful to order
the registry of their Baggage to Charing Cross per South-Eastem Railtoay.
Rale* f*r Thron|{h Tickets*
LONDON AND PARIS RETURN TICKSTS.
FIS8T CLA88. SECOND GLASS*
By either Boulogne or Galids £4 7 0 £8 7 0
Third-class Through Tickets by Hight Sendee, SOs.
BELGIUM, GERMANY, HOLLAND, &c. &c.,
By the appointed CfmHnetdal Mail Trains,
rovB sBBVzcas BAZitir.
Leaving Charing Cross and London Bridge at 7»25 a.m. and 8-30 p.m. daily,
vid Dover and Calais, and 7*25 A.M. and 8*30 P,M., vid Ostend, every day except
Sunday.
THROUGH TICKETS ISSUED AND BAGGAGE REGISTERED
(With a free allowance of 56 Ihs, ef ch Passenger).
THE FABCXXS EXPSES8E8 convey Pfureels to nearly all Continental
Destinations, at throngh Bates, as qnickly as the Bails.
A Rednced and Revised Scale of I'faroiigh Rates for Pabcku and Merchandise, of any
weight, between Lwdon and Pabib. A New Through TarllT, between London and Paris,
tat BaUioo and Value Paroela ; also. Bates for Value Parcels between London and Belghuu
llUSBCBUI.imi«B FOBWABl^BD TO BOrJLOONB.
THE O^IMAND AND MAIL BOBTE TO IKBIA, CHIKA, Jto.
LONiX)NBmmE^8TATiO^. 0. W. BBORALL, General Manager.
70 MURRATS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,
GENEVA,
GRAND h6tEL DE LA PAIX.
Thib cmlj one iitii»tefl on ih« Qjui, du Xont Bktne, olose to the Zngliflh
Choroid Baflwij 9tatlo]i| and Steamlxiat Piez;
This Hotel enjoys a splendid view of the Lake and MoQt Blanc It contains laT^ and small
Apartments with Balooniesi and Bedrooms, all Auniabed with the best taste and latest style.
Smoking Room, Beading and Convertation Boom.
Excellent Cuitine and service, which leaves nothing to wish for.
Omnibut qf Botd to meet aU the Trains,
■ > ■ ■ ■■ m II I III I I I I II I I I I I I III
WIESBADEN.
FOUR SEASONS HOTEL AND BATHS.
Sr^dator— DB. 7JJS,
This ¥1rst-clas8 Establishment, eq^ to any oo Uie Rhine, is in the best situation in the
Great Square, opposite the Cursaal, the Theatre, the Promoiadefl, close to the Boiling Spring
aadihenew Ei^i^Usl^ Chijp^
The Hotel contains 18U comfortable Bedrooms, and 20 Sitting-rooms with Balconied newly
famished in the most el^ant style.
ig Cabinets ha
Mineral, and Gold Water.
The Bathin|[ Cabinets have the best arrangements In flie place, and are supplied with Hot,
" er.
TABLE D'h6tE AT 1 P.M. AKD 5 P.M.
Zarge Stock of JIoc&s for Exportaium to England,
AMSTERDAM.
BRACK'S DOELEN HOTKL— SHweted in tbe Centre of tbe Town,
and moet eonvenient for VliftorB on {dearare or business. It commands a splendid view
of the (({uaySf &c. ; and, being conducted on a liberal scale. It is patronised by the highest
classes of sodety in Holland. It is also much frequented by EngUi^h Travellers for the com-
fort and finst-rate aooomsnudatioB ft affords, as wall as Ibr the invariable civility shown to
virt«ors. OoM and warm Isaths may be had at any hour. — Carriages for hire. — ^l*aUe d'HAte
at half-past 4, or dhinerli la carte.
y . II 'III III I ^— 1— ^-^^^^— ^i^u-i^— ^»-i^— ^i— i».^ i»^p.— 1,1^— .^i—^.^^
BALE.
HOTEL DE LA TETE D'OR, Mb. H. Wiedekkehb, Proprietor.—
This is one of the most comforUbte and delightfully situated Hotels in Bale. All tbe
windows, being in front, command magnificent views of the Khine: it is also capable of
affording excellent accommodation for Families and single Travellers. French, English, and
German spoken. Omnibus to and fh>m each Train. The Cuisine first-rate, and Wines of
superior quality.
-■■■■■■■■■■■■ *■*' I — ■- -y .__ — - - — _ I
BERLIN.
HOTEL. D'ANGLETERKE,
% VLhffE AS BEB BAVAOADSnS, 8.
. 8ITUATEI> IN THE FINEST AND MOST ELEQANT PART OF THE TOWIT,
next |o tbe ,Royal Falacea, Museamt^ and Theatres,
Single travellers and Urge fomilies can be accommodated with entire suites of Anartments.
oon^ingiof 0pl|^id fialooia, airy Bednxmis, Ac, aU ftiniWie« and carpeted in the belt
laigHsh style. Ffrst^te Table d'H6te, Baths, Equipages, Guides. TimUKoA GalignanKs
Messenger talcen in. Keddence of Her Brtilah MJsjityTMessengers. 'ipw™*
B. 8IEBELI8T, Ptopriotor.
186e. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 71
HEJDELBERQ.
HOTEL ADLJSR,
IN THE GRANDE PLACE, NEAK TO AND OPPOSITE THE CASTLE, WITH A
SPLENDID VIEW OF IT.
This House, directed by the Proprietor, Mr. LEHR, himself, is well known for its comfort and
moderate charges.
] HOMBOURQ.
HOTEL VICTORIA, dose to ihe Springs and the Kursaal, is one of
the flnert sod best ritaated Hotels. The Proprietor. M. GUSTAYB WEIOANA, who has been fur
many years in flrBt-oIass Hotels in London, offers to English travellers a good house, with every comfort.
Excellent Table^*hAte and good Wines, at nioderate charges. Sponge Baths. N.B. — All kinds of Wines
are exported to aigr part d BaglaiMi, pairticqWly liis exdellegat Sparkling Wines <ixice and dry, which are
expressly prepared for England), called Victoria Spearldihg Moselle and Hock.
CALAIS.
m\m HOTEL DESSeiN,
KNOWN FOB UPWABDS OF A CENTUEY AS FIRST-BATE.
BRUSSELS.
I.A.GE M^:NXJFA.CTOI^Y.
The Establishment of MdUes. 0. DE VERaNIES ET SCEURS, successors of Mr. VAN-
DERKEI^N-BKESSON, No. 248 and 1, Rue des Mafquis, close to the Cathedral of St.
Gudulf , is very strongly recommended.
~- — : i" —^ — —■ • f
GENEVE.
Hotel Beau Rivage et Angleterre.
Kept by Messrs. MAYER and KUNZ.
THIS splendid Establishment, just conntructed on ^ grand Scale, has the advan-
tage of being
THE MOST PLEASANTLY SITTJATEl) HOTEL IN GENEVA,
ON THE QDAI DU MONT BLANC,
Near the English Church, the Steamboat Landing, and the Railway Station,
surrounded by the Jardin des Alps and delightful Promenades.
It contains 130 well-furnished Bed and Sitting Rooms in eveiy variety, and has
15 Balconies; from its delightful Terraces, and from each Window of the Hotel,
Mont Blanc, the Lake, the new Bridge, and the Town can be seen in their fullest
extent. ,
The enlarges are Moderate, and a rediiced price for a protracted stay.
Pension in the Winter Months.
Omnibua to and from the Station tor every Train.
TABLE-D'HdTB 1, 5, AND 8 O'CLOCK.
73 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER* May,
_■ _ I r ■ ^-~ ■ • — " • — ■ — ■ — —
DARMSTADT.
Urn DE DARMSTADT.
PaoPBnrroR-Ma. L. WEINER.
FIRST-CLASS ESTABLISHMENT FOE FAMILIES AND TOURISTS.
BhXX)MMENi)ABLE IN ALL RESPECTS.
LAUSANNE.
HOTEL RIGHE MONT.
KEPT BY F. RITTEB.
THIS first-class House, surrounded by a large garden, is a
branch of the HOTEL GIBBOX, and in ibe very best situation in Lausanne, enjoying
the finest view of tlie Alps and the Lake in its foltetft extdM. TblS Ughly reccnnmeiided
Establishment in e.very respect combines superior accoranMdation with moderate prices.
Reduced charges for protracted visits, wad pension during the winter season.
NEAR TO LAUSANNE.
HOTEL BEAU RIVAGE.
SITUATED IN ONE OF THE MOSl* BEAUTIFUL SPOTS OF
THE LAKE OP GENEVA.
— I I -- — - — 1 1 — — - - I
LUCERNE.
SWAN HOTEL.— This Hotel, in the very best situation,
enj'ys a high character. Mr. HiEPELI, the Proprietor, has made In the later years
a great maiiy improvements, nnd does his possible ^o offer to his visitofs a oomfbrtable
liomq, An elegant new Ltadies' Drawing-room, besides a Beadiug-room and 8mriktngHW)m.
By a week's sujuum, j^enston arrangements.'
A
MAYENCE.
HOTEL DE HOLLANDE — FEBD. BUDINGEN, Proprietor —
oppudite the Landing-plaoe of the Rhine iteamen, and aear the Boilwav fltatinn, la maat fie^mnily
■itnatfld, aud if uae of the beat on the Bhine fur the acoommodation oi English famiUen and tcmrists. Mr.
BL'DINGEN, the new Proprietor, haa newly famished the Hotel thruo^ont, .and hopes, by tmramhtln^
atteuiiun and moderate pripes, to merit the patrouaso of KngHih traTellen. Xr. BUPINQEN exports the
Lest Rhlnaaad MoaaUe Wlnaa to Inglaai. , .
I IIIIM...-— — — . — 1. ■■! ^^■^^ I ^ ■ ■ ■, ■ I 1^ , , ^^^m^ ^ Bill ■■■■ ■■■- ■IM.M»
MENTON.
HOTEL DE LA MfiDITERBANl^B.— Ayenue Victor Emmanuel.—
This New and flnst-rate Hotel is situated full South, with view of the Sea. Families will find it »
most desirable residenoe fur its cumfort and cleanliness. *' Salon de GonTemation." Beadina^xxxn. with
English and Foreign papers, ^le Bervants speak Snglish and Other languagea. N3.— The English
Cnrarcfa is in the garden.
MENTON.
GRAND HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE.
Proprietob— Mb. J. ISNARD. )
SITUATED rUU, SOOTH, WITH FINE VIEW OF THE SEA.
1866; iraBRirs handbook advertiser. 73
LYONS.
HOTEL DE L'UNIVERS,
At Afty yards from the BiuIwaj Itatioit df Ferraohe.
{Entrarice on the Cour Napoleon,)
T^HE Proprietor, haying been honoured with the patronage
•*■ of £nglish families for many yeai*s, respectfully assures them the Hotel will
continue in such a manner as to deserve their satisfaction. Spacious and comfoi't-
able bed-rooms and drawing-rooms. English Newspapers daily. English, German,
and Italian spoken by the Landlady and attendants. English Circular and Bank
Notes exchanged.
ANTWERP.
HOTEL DE HOLLANDS (Schroeder)
Recommends itself tu the notice of English Travellers who visit Antwerp, from its com-
fortable apartments and moderate prices. Eiujlish spoken. The Hotel is situated close to
the Port, the landing-place of the SU^amers, and the KsJlway Station for Ghent and O^tend.
ATHENS.
h6tel des j^tbanqers,
Kear the Boyal Palabe.
In the most dellgbtrul situation, opposite the Royal Gardens, near the Palace. The best Hotel
in Athens. Moderate'prices ; good attendance. All languages spoken.
THUN (Switzerland^
HOTEL 5JEJB^.LEVUE.
T^HIS old and celebrated Establishment is situated in
-^ the midst of a magnificent Park, suiTounded by most pictui-esque glaciera
and iponntains, at the foot of which extends the beautiful Inke of Thoune.
The Park contains the English Chapel, as well as Reading and Billiard Rooms, and
several Ch&lets. Families who desire to make a lengthened stay at Bellcvue will
find there every comfort belonging to a first-class establishment. The Steamer
which runs between Thun and Newhaus (Interlaken) embarks and disembarks its
passengers in front of the Hotel.
J. W. KNBCHTSKHdFBIL
LUXEMBOURQ.
H6tEL DE COLOGNEe
Proprietor, Mr. WURTH PENDIUS.
'PHIS Hotel is of the first class, and is situated in the
J- centre of the town. The accommodation is both COMMODIOUS and COM^
70RTAULE, and the pi*ices on the most moderate scale.
Excellent Cuisine and fine Wines. Private Carriages belonging to the Hotel. An
Omoibus of the Hotel at the Station iar the arrival of all Trains,
7-r MURRArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May;
MENTONE.
HOTEL GRANDE BRETAGNE.
F. M. DAZIANO, Proprietor.
100 BED-EOOMS, 15 SITTING-EOOMS.
GOOD AOOOXXODAHOV.
Beaatifnl and good Establishineiit^ situakt d in tbe finest
part of the Bay.
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED BY ENGLISH VISITORS.
ENGLISH OOMFORT AND ATTENDANCE.
Hbderato ChargM.
MR. AND MRS. DAZIANO SPEAK ENGLISH.
'I ' ■ ' * r
PUBUCATIONB of the COMMITTEE of ABCHITECTURAL
ANTIQUITIES of WE8TBBM INDIA.
EDITED BY T. C. HOPE, ESQ., BOMBAY CIVIL SERVICE.
Now ready, with 2 Maps, 120 Fhotogropht, and 22 Woodctiii, 4to, price Five Ooineai, '
THE AECHITECTURE of AHMEDABAD, CAPITAL
'** OF GOOZERAT. Photographed by GoL BIGGS. R.A, with an Historical and Descrip-
tive Sketeh bj T. G. HQPJSl fi^^ Bombe^ ClTil Servioe, and Architectural Notes by
JAMES FERGUSSON, F.R.a
Also, Jnst ready, folio,
A RCHITECTtJRE of BEEJAPOOR, in the BOMBAY
-^ PRESIDENCY. Photographed by Col. BIGGS, RA., And Mi^Jor LOCH. WiOi aa
Higtorical Sketch by CoL MEADOWS TATLOR, and an Introduction by JAMBS
FERGQSSON.
JOHN MURRAY, ALBBMARLB STREET.
1866;
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
75^
PARIIi.
W. S. KIEKLAND & CO.,
FOREIGN, LITERARY, ANO COMMISSION AGENTS
{AOENTS-'COMMISSIONATRES).
PABIS: [27, BUB DE BIOHBLIEU.
LONDON: 23, SALISBUBY 8TBEET, STBAND.
PARIS EXHIBinOK OF 1867.
Exhibitors fttthis Exhibition may be repre-
sented by Messrs. Kirkland, who will under-
take to keep patterns, answer inquiries, take
iVi letters, reglrter orders. Ice. &e., during the
whole period the Exhil^tion ia open, for a fixed
sum. For full particulars apply either in
London or Paris.
Special Agents for the Continent of • The
Times,' * Illustrated Lfondon News»' and seve-
ral of the principal £ngliab newspapers, ma-
gazines, and periodicals.
Subscriptions received for all English, Ame-
rican, Colonial, and other Journals published
throughout the world.
Advertisements inserted promptly in all
papers. Contracts made for a series.
Tourists can subscribe for any short period
to any of the English newspapers ; and hotel-
keepers, reading-ro<»u8, &o. &c., during the
continuance of their season only. Subscrip-
tions can be paid direct by Post-ofBce Order
on Faris, from any part of France. Belgium,
Italy, and Switzerland ; or in other parts of the
Oontinient, to Messrs. Kirkland's correspond-
eqts in waj of the principal towns and cities.
Constant communication with London (daily
tf aeoessary), ensuring prompt execution of
all orders Parcels by every mail from New
York-
English and American Books at London
Prices.
Commissions executed for all English and
French articles. Samples, patterns, suiq;»lled,
and all inquiries' answered.
EXFOSrnOH SE PASIS» 1867. .
MM. les Exposants pourront se falre repre-
senter pendant toute la durde de I'Exposition,
par Kirkland et Cie., qui se chargent pour
one summe fixe de tenir les ^chantillons, fonr-
nirles renaelgDanents,Teoevoir les lettres,etci
S'adresser pour plus amples parti( ularit^ soli
& la malson de Londres, on & celle de Paris.
Agents sp^ciaux sur tout le Continent popr
le 'Ttanes,' 1' 'Illustrated London News,' et
autres prhicipaux loumaax, revues, et P^rio-
diques Anglais.
On revolt les abonnements pour les joumaux
Anglais, Amerlcains, ceux des colonies, et tous
les pays du monde.
MM. les tonristes peuvent s'abonner anx
juumaux Anglais pendant I'epoque qui leur
convlendra, et les proprietalres d'hbtels, salons
de lectures, 6tc., pendant, s'ils veuleiit, leitr
satscQ seulement. On peut s'abonner dlrecte-
ment de toute partie de France, Belgique,
Italic, ou Suisse, par mandats de poste sur
Paris, et des autres pays par rintermide des
correspondants de Ktrklaud et Cie., qui se
trouveiit dans toutes les priadpales vilies de
lEurope.
Livres Anglais et Amerlcains aux prix de
Londres.
Coromnnication constante avec Londres, ce
qui assure prompte execution des ordres. Par
chaque maile on refolt des envois de Ne\^
York.
Commissions ponr toute speciality Anglaise
on Fran^aise. £ScbantiUoii8 envoy^s et toute
information sur demande.
7* ♦ MCRBArS HAHDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,
DR. WM. SMITH'S
DICTIONARIES OF THE BIBLE.
Now ready, with numeraus Illustrations, 3 vols, mediam Svo., 5/. 55.,
A DICTIONARY OF THE BIBLE FOR DIVINES
AND SCHOLARS: its Antiquities, Biography, Geography, and Natui-al
History. By Various Writers, including the Archbishop of York, the
Bishops of Calcutta, Ely, Gloucester and Bristol, Killaloe, the Deans of
Canterbury and Westminster, Loiti Arthur Hei'vev, • Professors Lightfoot,
Pluxuptre, RawJiuson, Selwjn, &e. Edited by WM. SMITH, LL.D.
'Dr. Wm. Smith's Dictionabt of the Bible could not fail to take a very high place in
Ens^ish literature ; for no similar work in our own or in any other language is fw a moment
to be compared vrith it.'— Quarterly BemuK
n.
A CONCISE BIBLE DICTIONARY FOR FAMILIES
AND STUDENTS; condensed from the above work. With Illustrations.
One Volume. (1050 pp.) Medium 8vo. 21«,
* This volume Is so ftill and ratisfisctory that did It not appear as an abridgmrat It would
be accepted as a fuU and comptete Dictionary of the BxhlBj-^Ckurchman,
III.
A SMALLER BIBLE DICTIONARY FOR SCHOOLS
AND YOUNG PERSONS. With Maps and numerous Woodcuts. (600 pp.)
Crown 8vo. 7s. 6d, " \_8hortly.
This Edition has been prepared as a companion volume to Dr. Wm. Smith's
Smaller Classical Dictionaries, which are now used so g^ei-ally in all
Public and Piivate Schools.
iv.
THE STUDENT'S MANUAL OF SCRIPTURE HIS-
TORY. With Maps and Woodcuts. Post 8vo. Is, 6d, each. «
L THE OLD TESTAMENT HISTORY: from thb Creation to the
RiSTORN OF THB JeWS FROM CAPTIVITY. IReody,
II. THE NEW TESTAMENT HISTORY. With an Introduction con-
taining the Connexion of the Old and New Testament. [Juat ready ^
The object of these Woiks is to provide Text-books of Scriptdre Histobt,
which, in fullness, accuracy, and scholarlike treatment, may take their place by
the side of thfe Student's Histories of Greece and Rome now in general use
in all the best Public and Private Schools.
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
1866. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 77
LISBON.
' ■ >i
ARTICLES JFROM MADEIRA.
A. C. RIBKIRO,
41, RUA DO CORPO SANTO,'
UMer the Batdr Ctntralt Li^on,
Has on sale all the Articles in which he deals at FimchaI,No.lOA,RuadaCaiTeira,!DclucliDg~
Feather Flowers.
White Lacb Shawls.
' Black Silk Shawls.
Whitb IXOyleys.
Hats of Aloe Thread.
Cmbroidert.
Hair Chains and Bracelets.
White Leather Boots.
Wax Fruits.
Wicker Chairs.
Fancy Baskets.
Machetes.
Bracelets and Brooches Silver
Mounted, with Silver Charms.
Red Pepper.
Arrowroot.
Figures of the Peasantry in Wood
and Baked Clay.
Inlaid Wood Workboxes, Book-
stands, Ac.
Tiews •f Rf adelra. Guide Books to the Island.
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK OF PORTUGAL.
•^* English Spoken,
DRESDEN.
HOTEL ZUM KRONPRINZ
(Crown Prince Hotel),
Peopbibtor: Mr. E. SCHTJLZE.
This new and splendid iirst-class Hotel is situated near the Theatre, Brilhlsehe
ferrasse, and all the Muscles. Being one of the largest and best Hotels in Germany, it
offers a variety of accommodation. A large number of Bedrooms, numerous private
Sitting-rooms, elegant Salons comfortably furnished, combining the best of accom«
modation for Families or Single Gentlemen, at Moderate Charges. Table d'Hote.
Private Dinners at any hour. Advantageous arrangements made with visitors
for board and i-esidence daring the winter.
NUREMBERG.
RED HORSE HOTEL
(Rothes Ross),
Proprietor: M. P. JAHMBEUH.
This excellent old-established Hotel, situated in one of the best quarters of the
town, is well adapted for Tourists and Families making a visit to Nuremberg of some
duration, and who will find every eonosivable comfort and oonvemeoce^ Table d'Hdfe
at 1 P.M., and Private Dinners at all hours. The Establishment will be found well
'■worthy of the renown and patronage it has enjoyed from English travellers of the
highest rank during many^years. ^
-78 lUTRRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISEIL May,
SCIENCE MD ART DEPAETMENT
or
€ammxikt ai ^omxtil . an . €iimKixm,
SOUTH KENSINGTON.
••0^
THHE Lords of the Committee of Council on Edu-*
cation liave passed the following Minute on this subject,
and invite the attention of travellers and tourists to it. The
object which the Department has in view would be much
aided, if such travellers would have the kindness to send
notes of any remarkable objects which may not be described
in 'Murray's Handbook;' ihe notes being made out in the
following form, and sent in a letter addressed to the ' Secre-
tary, South Kensington Museum, London, W. :' letters so
officially addressed may be sent unpaid; and printed forms
Vill be supplied, if written for. — Form — 1. Subject; 2. Lo-
cality; 3. Site; 4. Description; 5. Date; 6. Condition; 7^
Dimensions ; 8. Beference to any fuller account published oi:
otherwise.
Ai South Kensington, ihe first day of December, 1864.
By the Eight Honourable the Lords of Her Majesty's Most*
Honourable Privy Council on Education,
Beproduction of Examples of Arohitectural Dec(»:ation«
I. My Lords take into consideratioii what additional ezaii4)le8 of Archi-
tectural Decoration, as well of British as of Foreign origin, it is desirable^
should be obtained to complete the collections in the Sottth Kbnsingtom!
MtrsEUM, and with this view they desire to havo the advantage of the
advice and suggestions of the Institute of British Architects, the Atchi-i
tectural Museum, and the architectural profession generally.
1866. MURRATS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 79
SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM-<^*«"«^^.
II. The objeote of Decorative Art especially referred to are : —
a. Ornamental Sculpture in Marble, Stone, or 'Wood.
h. Wall Deoorationa in Painting, Mosaic, &o.
e. Hammered and Chased Metal-work.
d. Ornamental Fayements in Mosaic, Encaustic Tiles, &c.
e. Examples of Stained Glass.
m. It is desirable that the olbjeots should be the finest specimens of
their class, complete in themselves, and not too large for exhibition ; and,
by way of illustration, it may be stated that casts have been obtained of
Archbishop Grey's Tomb from York Cathedral, the PriOTs' Gateway in the
Cloisters of Norwich Cathedral, the Singing Gallery in Exeter Cathedral,
the Pulpit of Giovanni Plsano from the Baptisteiy at Pisa, the Ghiberti
Bronze Gates at Florence, and the like.
lY. Tlie finest typical works in Stained Glass and Mosaics might possibly
be r^rodueed in materials like the original, and the same observation
applies to Hammered Iron-work. Other reproductions may be obtained by.
meaoB of Casting, Electiotyping, and large copies by Fainting and otherwise.
y. In respect to object3 of Northern Mediaeval and Renaissance Art» in
which the varieties of style are very numerous, it would be desirable to form
in iiiB first instance a Ust of a few of the finest exari^les which illustrate
each epoch of the Art and each class of Art. And in the fonnation of such
a list, the experience of the different Architectural Societies said Architects
would be of the highest utility*
YI. Besides making a oolleotion of such reproductions as proposed, to be
exhibited in the Musemu, My Lords will cause to be compiled general Art
Inventories^ briefly namilOLg the most remarkable objects which are known
to exist, and showing the locality and site where they may be seen and
studied. Photographs may be added occasionally to illustrate these laven-
tories. •
Yll* These inventoriea will be -kept in type to admit of revi6i<ms and
additions, and only a few oo{Mea will be printed icom time to time. Copies
will be sent to the Architectural Societies, and to any Architects who may
apply» and be willing to contribute notices in aid of their completi(»i.
By order of ^e Lords of the Committee of Council on Education.
HEKB7 COIjE« Secretary.
80
MURTUrS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
May, 1866.
THE ORIGINAL PASSPORT AGENCY.
LBFS POLTOLOT
WABHINe
BOOKS.
(To Mvo the trouble
of translating
Waahing BUlaX
For Ladies or
Gentlemen.
ur
BinpUth A Pmuh.
Bvglxth S ItaHan.
BmU^S Spanith.
SPONGE BA08.
METAIUO
SOAP BOXES.
KNAPSACKS.
FLASKa
PASSPORTS
Proeured, mounted on linen, and Inserted
in mftrocco oaaeii^ stamped with eoronet or
name at the shortest notioey and forwarded
by post.
Visas obtained and Infomatiea ^kwi^
The latest editions of Mubkat** Haim-
B00K8 kept in the original binding, and in
limp leather, more conTenirafe for the
pocket, at 2«. a volume extra.
TRUSTWORTHT CoUHRIICBS AMD TRATiLtiiro
SsBVAim oan be engaged at
LEE & CARTER'S
MOORB'8
OEBKAV
IHTEBFBETEB.
With the exflct
pronunciation in
foglish in a separate
cohimn. 5«. in cloth,
or 6«. in leather.
MANUSCRIPT A
ACCOUNT BOOKS.
Xetallio and otber
Pocket Books.
DOOB rASTI'i'lSRS.
Patent dkstandfl
and light Boxes.
ELASTIC BANDS.
GUIDE AND TRAVELLINQ DEPOT,
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STRAPS,
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XONXT BA08 A
BELTS.
PURSESI,
WALLETS, AND
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CASES.
TRAVCIimO
TELESCOPES,
and SiMtaelos
440, WEST STBAHD, W.O.
TWO DOOBS WX8T Or TBI LOWTBEB
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Where an eztenshre CoUectlon of
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^iffionttiitSf ^ialojftttSy
•SAXXAXi, IVTXBPBXTXSi,
WOI^D AND PHRASB BOOKS
In nMst of the Continental Languagse, and
eVery article necessary for home and foreign
travel ia kept in great variety.
ALL THE KEW AND STANDASD
BOOKS FOB RAILWAY BBADnrO.
MOROCCO AND RUSSIA ROLL-UP
WRITING CASES.
Foreign Paper,
ENVELOPES, &o»
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ajn>
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