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• 81 7

ARTES SCIENTIA VERITAS

I ( .. .

HANDBOOK

OF THE

MADEAS PEESIDENCY,

LONDON
EBADBUAY, AGMEW, ds CO., PBINTBBS, WHITEFRIARi:.

HANDBOOK

OF THE

MADEAS PEESIDENCY.

WITH A NOTICE OP THE

OTERLAND KOUTE TO INDIA.

SECOND EDITION.

WITH MAPS AND PLANS.

LONDON
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE 8TBEE.T.

1879,

THE ENGLISH EDITIONS

AIX-LA-

CHAPELLE
AMSTERDAM
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M.\YER.

MULLER.-
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MARX.

asher.— mitscher & rostell.

messrs. kiessling.

a. bielbfeld.

greven. — dumont.— eisen.

burdach. — pierson.

jVgel.

GRAT2 LEUSCHNER & LUBENSKY.

THE HAGUE.. NIJHOFF.

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OP MURRAY'S HANDBOOKS MAY BE OBTAINED
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Aleocaiidria aivd Cairo,

\ ALEXAUDTrtA BOOK CO.

^^ovtta. rr- India,

"•' TBA CKER, SJ'JXK, & CO, | BOMBAY THACKER & CO. , l.m\'^TA>,

C:i: -loosjo T)-;

■ • < ■ ■ ^
. * . -

HIS EXCELLENCY

THE EIGHT HON. THE LORD LYTTON,

G.C.B., G.C.S.L,

TfflS ATTEMPT TO OPEN OUT THE EMPIRE OF INDIA TO TRAVELLERS,

IS,
WITH EVERY. SENTIMENT OF RESPECT AND REGAFwD,

INSCRIBED BY THE AUTHOH,

EDWAED B. EASTWIOK.

IjONDOK, Junty 1879.

PEEFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION.

The First Edition of this Handbook was published in
January, 1859. Eailways were introduced into India in
February, 1855 (when, however, only the experimental line of
121 miles from Calcutta to Rdmganj was opened by Lord
Dalhousie), but their rapid extension of late years has
changed all the circumstances of Indian travelling, and
rendered it easy now to visit many interesting places, which
were before almost inaccessible. Other great changes have
taken place, so that it has been necessary almost entirely to
re-write, instead of revising the former Handbook, and the
reader has now before him a new work rather than a new
edition. It must be added that the author has himself,
within the last year, visited almost all the places described in
these pages, so that the very latest particulars regarding
their condition will be found here, as well as the actually
existing means for visiting them. Many important places
which were not mentioned in the former edition are fully
described in this, such as the vast ruined city of Bij&Qagar
and the celebrated Temple of Tirupati. Again a comparison
between the present and the former de6CTY^tva\i'8» cA ^sq^&l
places as HaidardMd and Bengalur "wifl. shoN^i \iO^ ScvSfcte^ ^
thing it is to compile descriptions from \>ook&, aiA ^»^ ^^

Vlll PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION.

them on the spot. On the other hand, a great amount of
obsolete and unnecessary matter has been excluded from the
present volume, and, in particular, the historical sketches
have been wholly expunged, and in thek stead numerous
references are given to books, which will supply those who
desire to study the history of the country with the means of
acquiring full information regarding it.

It is a satisfaction to the author that the spelling of Indian
names which he introduced in 1859 (see Preface to the First
Edition) has now been not only adopted, but rigorously en-
forced by the Indian Government, except in ^uch stereotyped
words as Arcot and Pondicherry. It is a still greater satisfac-
tion to him, to have to record his grateful thanks for the kind
assistance he has received from the Government itself, and
from very many officers during his travels, without which,
indeed, it would have been impossible for him to have
obtained the information he required. It would occupy too
much spacje to enumerate all who have aided him, but, in
particular, he desires to thank His Grace the Duke of
Buckingham and Chandos, Governor of Madras, who is always
forward to promote every undertaking which promises to be
of value to the public ; the Hon. D. Carmichael, Member of
the Madras Council ; Major Hobart, E.A., Military Secretary
to the Governor ; Dr. Burnell, Judge of Tanjur, the first
orientalist of the day, who supplied the author with plans of
the chief temples in the south of India, and with much
valuable information; Mr. T. H. Master, Collector of Ball^ri;
Mr. Glennie, C.S., in charge of Gutti ; Mr. 0. Irvine, Judge
of Gudalur (Cuddalore) ; Mr. E. Webster, Judge of Trichin^-
joalli ; Dr. J. B. Thomas, of the Madras Med. Service, who
possesses a rare knowledge of Tamil ; Mr. A. K. Hutchins,
^^ or the Madras C.8., an excellent Tamil schoVaT, Ni\io

PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION. IX

corrected the Tamil dialogues ; Mr. Cross, Asst. Judge at
Kumbhakonam ; Mr. P. P. Hutchins, Judge of Madura,
who also furnished plans of Temples ; Mr. Price, C.S. ;
Mr. Arthur Cox, C.S., in charge of Arkdt (Arcot) ; Mr.
Austin, C.S., in charge of Velur (Vellore), and Captain Claude
Vincent, K.E., Executive Engineer at that place ; Mr. C.
Minakshaya, Barrister of Bengaltir ; Mr. Gordon, Eesident at
Maisur ; Mr. A. M. Webster, Collector of Koimbatur ; Mr.
Johnstone, C.S., in charge of the Nilgiris ; Major Fairclough,
Commandant at Wellington Barracks, and Mr. Buick, C.S.,
Collector of Malabar.

In addition, the author has to make special mention
of Mr. James Burgess, the Government Archaeologist for
Bombay, who accompanied him to the caves of Eliira and
Ajanta, and revised his descriptions of those wonderful
excavations on the spot, at the same time addi-essing to him
the following letter :

** Caves op Elura, 10th 3f arch, 1S77.
" My DEAR Mr. Eastwick,

" I am glad to hear you are soon to bring out a new
Edition of your * Handbook of India,' and this time extended
to the remaining Provinces. The first edition was a most useful
work, and remarkably accurate, considering the little information
regarding the majority of the localities described in it that was
available to the public twenty years ago. I have had your book
with me in nearly all my journeys since it was issued, and have
always found it useful, and in most cases perfectly correct. Of
course the Railways have opened up new routes and altered others,
so that for the yearly increasing number of European tourists
in India a new edition has for some time been mudoL x^c^m^^, «:cl^
I am glad jou are to bring it out, for the extent and ^.^cvrc^c^ ^^
jrour information and the judicioixa use you liad made ol \)ti^ ^^'^'^

X PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION.

amount of reading you must have gone through to prepare the first
edition, pointed you out as the fittest person alive to extend the
book to Bengal and Upper India, and to revise the former volumes.
You will find but little to erase in them : you have only to add.
I wish you all success in your most laborious and toilsome under-
taking. Only those who have travelled much in India know how
toilsome such work as yours is.

" Believe me, yours very sincerely,

"(Signed) J AS. BURGESS,

" Archaeological Surveyor, &c. , to
Government of Western India.

**E. B. Eastwick, Esq., C.B., &c.,&c."

This expression of thanks would not be complete without
an acknowledgment of facilities granted to the author by the
Directors of the Peninsular and Oriental Company, and of the
Indian Railway Companies, and here he must especially
mention the names of Messrs. T. Sutherland and Bayley,
Mr. Juland Danvers, Government Director of Railways, Mr.
Church, Trafl&c Manager of the Madras Railway Company,
Mr. Betts, Agent for the South India Railway, and Mr. Lea
Hair, C.E.

X PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION.

" Believe me, yours very sincerely,

** (Signed) J AS. BURGESS,

" Archaeological Surveyor, &c, , to
Government of Western India.

**E. B. Eastwick, Esq., C.B., &c.,&c."

This expression of thanks would not be complete without
an acknowledgment of facilities granted to the author by the
Directors of the Peninsular and Oriental Company, and of the
Indian Eailway Companies, and here he must especially
mention the names of Messrs. T. Sutherland and Bayley,
Mr. Juland Danvers, Government Director of Eailways, Mr.
Church, Trafl&c Manager of the Madras Eailway Company,
Mr. Betts, Agent for the South India Eailw^ay, and Mr. Lea
Hair, C.E.

PREFACE TO THE EDITION OF 1859.

At the present moment, when India has been drawn so much
closer to England by almost contmuous steam communication, by
the Electric Telegraph, and, above all, by the sympathy which even
the recent abortive eflFort to dissever the two countries has itself
most remarkably tended to evoke, a Handbook of India has be-
come an especial want.

The vast extent of that region, however, which precludes the
possibility of its being thoroughly travelled over and explored by
any one man ; the dimness of its history and imcertainty of in-
formation respecting its antiquities, and the difficulty of obtaining
satisfactory accounts of the things most worthy of inspection, render
a Handbook of India a much more arduous undertaking than the
Handbooks of most other countries. When it is considered that
the two minor Presidencies, which supply the routes for this present
volume, comprehend an extent of country equalling Spain and
Portugal, France, Belgium, Switzerland, England, Prussia, and
Bavaria, the magnitude of the task will be better appreciated, and
allowances will, it is hoped, be made for the numberless deficiencies
in its execution.

India aboimds with objects of interest. It presents every
imaginable variety of scenery, from the loftiest and most sublime
mountain ranges, to the gentle undulations and velvet swards of an
English park. Its natural products are equal, if not superior, to
those of any region in the world, and would furnish endles& \asii«i-
rials for the pen of the describer. It is rich iiiT[iistoTVQ»^ ««&o^\ia^vso&,
and there is scarce a bill which is not crowned m\\i ^^'a Y^<i\,\3Ct«eio;vva
ruiDS of some old foHresa, little known or altogetYiejt \3ltlVy^v\.^^^s^

X PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION.

" Believe me, yours very sincerely,

"(Signed) J AS. BURGESS,

" ArchsBoloffical Surveyor, &c. , to
Government of Western India.

**E. B. Eastwick, Esq., C.B., &c.,&c."

This expression of thanks would not be complete without
an acknowledgment of facilities granted to the author by the
Directors of the Peninsular and Oriental Company, and of the
Indian Eailway Companies, and here he must especially
mention the names of Messrs. T. Sutherland and Bayley,
Mr. Juland Danvers, Government Director of Eailways, Mr.
Church, Trafl&c Manager of the Madras Eailway Company,
Mr. Betts, Agent for the South India Eailway, and Mr. Lea
Hair, C.E.

PEEFACE TO THE EDITION OF 1859.

At the present moment, when India has been drawn so much
closer to England by almost continuous steam communication, by
the Electric Telegraph, and, above all, by the sympathy which even
the recent abortive eflFort to dissever the two countries has itself
most remarkably tended to evoke, a Handbook of India has be-
come an especial want.

The vast extent of that region, however, which precludes the
possibility of its being thoroughly travelled over and explored by
any one man ; the dimness of its history and uncertainty of in-
formation respecting its antiquities, and the difficulty of obtaining
satisfactory accounts of the things most worthy of inspection, render
a Handbook of India a much more arduous undertaking than the
Handbooks of most other countries. When it is considered that
the two minor Presidencies, which supply the routes for this present
volume, comprehend an extent of country equallino^ Spain and
Portugal, France, Belgium, Switzerland, England, Prussia, and
Bavaria, the magnitude of the task will be better appreciated, and
allowances will, it is hoped, be made for the numberless deficiencies
in its execution.

India aboimds with objects of interest. It presents every
imaginable variety of scenery, from the loftiest and most subUme
mountain ranges, to the gentle undulations and velvet swards of an
English park. Its natural products are equal, if not superior, to
those of any region in the world, and would furnish endlesa ijaai^-
rials for the pen of the describer. It is rich iiiT[iiatoTO^«ia^Q«i\^\ao&«i
and there Is soiree a bill which is not crowned Vifti t\ia Y^Q.\,>Mi«e.Q;vvft
raiDS of some old fortress, little known or altogetYiex wtlVy^^^^^^I

X PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION.

" Believe me, yours very sincerely,

*' (Signed) J AS. BURGESS,

" Archaeological Surveyor, &c. , to
Government of Western India.

**E. B. Eastwick, Esq., C.B., &c.,&c."

This expression of thanks would not be complete without
an acknowledgment of facilities granted to the author by the
Directors of the Peninsular and Oriental Company, and of the
Indian Kailway Companies, and here he must especially
mention the names of Messrs. T. Sutherland and Bayley,
Mr. Juland Danvers, Government Director of Kailways, Mr.
Church, Trafl&c Manager of the Madras Kailway Company,
Mr. Betts, Agent for the South India Kailway, and Mr. Lea
Hair, C.E.

PREFACE TO THE EDITION OF 1859,

The vast extent of that region, however, which precludes the
possibility of its being thoroughly travelled over and explored by
any one man ; the dimness of its history and uncertainty of in-
formation respecting its antiquities, and the difficulty of obtaining
satisfactory accounts of the things most worthy of inspection, render
a Handbook of India a much more arduous undertaking than the
Handbooks of most other coimtries. When it is considered that
the two minor Presidencies, which supply the routes for this present
volume, comprehend an extent of coimtry equallino^ Spain and
Portugal, France, Belgium, Switzerland, England, Prussia, and
Bavaria, the magnitude of the task will be better appreciated, and
allowances will, it is hoped, be made for the numberless deficiencies
in its execution.

India aboimds with objects of interest. It presents every
imaginable variety of scenery, from the loftiest and most sublime
mountain ranges, to the gentle undulations and velvet swards of an
English park. Its natural products are equal, if not superior, to
those of any region in the world, and would famish endless ma.t^
rials for the pen of the describer. It is rich iIl^[iiatoI\Q.^«^a^Q<^\^^a'o&
and there is scarce a hill which is not crowned m\\i t\ia Y^Q.\,\3X«ao;vvft
rains of some old fortress, little known or altog^tYiet wtlVy^^^.^^"^!

X PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION.

" Believe me, yours very sincerely,

"(Signed) J AS. BURGESS,

" Archaioloffical Surveyor, &c, , to
Government of Western India.

**E. B. Eastwick, Esq., C.B., &c.,&c."

PREFACE TO THE EDITION OF 1859.

The vast extent of that region, however, which precludes the
possibility of its being thoroughly travelled over and explored by
any one man ; the dimness of its history and uncertainty of in-
formation respecting its antiquities, and the difficulty of obtaining
satisfiictory accounts of the things most worthy of inspection, render
a Handbook of India a much more arduous undertaking than the
Handbooks of most other countries. When it is considered that
the two minor Presidencies, which supply the routes for this present
volume, comprehend an extent of country equallino^ Spain and
Portugal, France, Belgium, Switzerland, England, Prussia, and
Bavaria, the magnitude of the task will be better appreciated, and
allowances will, it is hoped, be made for the numberless deficiencies
in its execution.

India aboimds with objects of interest. It presents every
imaginable variety of scenery, from the loftiest and most sublime
mountain ranges, to the gentle undulations and velvet swards of an
English park. Its natural products are equal, if not superior, to
those of any region in the world, and would furnish endless master
rials for the pen of the describer. It is rich iIl^[iiatoI^(i«\«&^Q«iv^^^a^^'»
and there is scarce a hill which is not crowned witti t\i^ ^V^iVxrteaojJxft
ruiDS of some old foHreaa, little known or altogetYi^T wtl-^vk^^^^^I

Xil PREFACE TO THE EDITION OF 1859.

Europeans, but bound up in the native mind with many a strange
tale and legend. In Europe the small remains of some ruined
cloister, or the mouldering walls of a solitary castle, are sought out
with eager interest; but India is a land of ruined cities, and in one
of these the antiquities of a whole European province might be
collected. The ruins of Br^man^bad, the Pompeii of Sindh, ex-
tend for twenty miles, and wherever the mattock of the excavator
falls, curious relics come to light. The deserted city of Bfjapur
prqsents from a distance the appearance of a populous capital, and
it is not until the desolate streets are entered, that the illusion is
entirely dispelled. But Indian architecture can boast not only of
what is curious and surprising; but also of what is eminently
beautiful. The Taj excels all buildings in the world in symmetry
and rich decoration. The temples of Abu are not to be surpassed
in ornamenture. The palace of Amber is a structure before which
the Alhambra shrinks into insignificance. It would be an error,
then, to suppose that the task of composing a Handbook for India
cotdd be quickly or easily accomplished.

But, in addition to the vastness of the subjiect, there is another
formidable difi&culty with which the compiler of a Handbook for
India has to struggle. Intense heat and malaria are great opponents
to the most zealous explorer of antiquities or of the picturesque.
It happens that many of the most interesting Indian localities arc
situated among thick jungles, loaded with noxious vapours, and
abounding with dangerous reptiles and wild beasts. Thus the caves
of Salsette can never be securely examined by the traveller ; and
no one should explore the ruins of M^ndu, unless fully equipped
for a tiger hunt. It is partly for these reasons, perhaps, that the
accounts of places furnished by Indian travellers are in general so
vague and inaccurate. Were it not for the elaborate notices of
Tod, Fergusson, and Newbold, the mere compiler would find it im-
possible to give an exact description of the scenery and remarkable
architectural remains of Western and Southern India.

But although it is not pretended that the Handbook for India

in its present shape approaches the accuracy of the guidebooks to

countries which have been longer and more minutely scrutinized,

^Ae author hopes a beginning at least has been made, and that by

^ ^contributions and corrections of those acqua.m\.e^ mVXx \X:v^

PREFACE TO THE EDITION OF 1859. Xlii

subjects treated, and especially by the aid of persons actually resi-
dent in India, the work now given to the public may prove a trust-
worthy, though not altogether complete guide for travellers in Hin-
dustan. Indeed it is only fair to state that whatever there is of
value in the present pages is due to the suggestion, or research, of
distinguished Orientalists, or those who, from their practical ac-
quaintance with Indian subjects, are eminently qualified to aid and
advise. The compiler of this volume, though he has himself tra-
velled through many parts of both Presidencies, has profited largely
by the labours of others, and tenders his most grateful thanks to
Professor H. H. Wilson ; Colonel Faber, Chief Engineer at Madras;
General Dickinson, late Chief Engineer at Bombay; Mr. Fergusson,
author of the Handbook of Architecture; Major Wingate, late
Superintendent of Survey in the S. Mar^tha country ; Mr. C. P.
Brown, of the Madras Civil Service, author of the Telugu Die-
ticmary and other valuable works ; Mr. Edward Thornton, and Mr.
Homidge, of the Statistical Department at the East India House ;
Colonel Cotton, of the Madras Engineers ; the Rev. John Wilson,
D.D., President of the Asiatic Society of Bombay ; and Mr. A. F.
Bellasis, late Collector of Haidarabad in Sindh. Mr. Walter Elliot,
Mr. Sim, and Mr. Chamier, of the Madras Civil Service, and Mr.
Lestock Beid, of the Civil Service of Bombay, lent their kind aid
in the preparation of the Vociabularies and Dialogues, and several
other gentlemen supplied information as to localities with which
they were specially acquainted.

It now remains to notice briefly the plan of the work, and to
explain some things which might, at first sight, appear objection-
able. In order to make the work as useful as possible to the
servants of Government, and persons resident in India, as well as
to the mere traveller, a greater amount of statistics, and prelimi-
ijary information of all kinds, has been given than is usual in
Handbooks. Many of the statistics are new, and have never
before been given to the public. Such are the names and direc-
tions of the Sub-Divisions in the different Collectorates, and their
Chief Towns, and some of the Routes. To the etymology and
correct spelling of names, much attention baa \ie^Ti ^^^^'si, ^xA
owing to the almost inextricable confusion in \f\i\c\i na^'^^X. ^ixA
mdifference have involved this part of Oriental rese^T(i\\,>;)tva\'^^^'^

Xiv PREFACE TO THE EDITION OF 1851).

required here has been very considerable. This task has been
rendered the more irksome from the conviction that, however
necessary and useful the endeavour to restore Indian names to
their original correctness may be, the attempt will be viewed with
aversion by those who, having no knowledge of Oriental languages,
are careless of the confusion and even serious mistakes arising from
the want of system in the common method of spelling. In order to
give an idea of the almost incredible absurdity, and ludicrous in-
consistency of the popular mode of spelling adopted for Indian
names, a few examples will suffice. It must be premised, however,
that the following instances are neither the most striking, nor the
most important, but simply those that come first to hand. Take,
then, as a specimen, the towns whose names are compounded with
the words Farrul% " happy," and Fathj " victory," in Thornton's
Gazetteer. Farrukhnagar is the name of a district, and of a town,
which are the subjects of consecutive notices in that work. The
word is the same for both district and town ; but it is spelled
Furruckmiggur for the district, and Fnruhrmgur for the town, both
modes being wrong. In the next two notices, for Fatliganj we find
Fvtehgunge (Western), Futeligunje (Eastern), the same word spelled
in two difibrent ways, in notices immediately following each other,
and both utterly at variance with the true Oriental name. In the
next 25 notices, the word Fath is spelled in eleven dififerent ways
— FiUehy Futh, Ftvthe, Fvtick, FtUi, Futte, FuUeh, Futtih, Futtoo,
Futtun, Futtg, — all modes being absolutely wrong. The words, too,
with which Fath is compoimded are spelled difierently in consecu-
tive notices. Thus Garh is spelled Ghur in one line, and Gurh in
the next. And Fiir, a town, is spelled alternately Poor and Fore.
Now, let this method be applied in Indian schools for the spelling
of English names. We should then have Lancaster, or rather some
corruption of the word, for the town, and Zongcoster for the county.
West Hiding and Fast Hoding, York, Yark, Yirk, Yorick, and so on,
for eleven varieties. The absurdity and inconvenience of such a
system is palpable. A map of France prepared for English schools
on the plan of acconmiodating French sounds to the English ear,
TTouJd abound with such barbarisms as would be intolerable to
^voiy person of education and refinement. Must not then an edu-
^ted native of India be disgusted with the mis-proii\xiiCiYa.\i\oia& ^\A

PREFACE TO THE EDITION OP 1859, XY

mis-spellings of English writers 1 In the popular mode of spelling
Indian proper names the aspirates are continually omitted, or in-
serted where they ought not to occur ; and in innumerable cases,
letters are changed in a way that deprives the representative word
of all resemblance to the original. Surely the Ilutnee of English
maps for Athnt, Hungut for Ildngal, and Broach for BJuiruchy must
be very imcouth and ridiculous to Indians, and simply imintelligiblo
to the lower class. Even the general English reader now smiles
at the ridiculous substitutes for Oriental names, which appear in
the writings of the first servants of the East India Company ; at
Sir Koger Dowler (Siraju'd-daulah) imprisoning the helpless English,
who revenged themselves by treating his name with a barbarity
equal to his own towards themselves ; or at the ravages of the Sow
Roger (S^hu R^j^), and the exploits of the valorous Bouncello
(Bhonsle). But the popular mode of spelling at present, if not
quite so ridiculous, is much less consistent than that of the old
jargon, leads to the gravest errors, and can amuse no one.

But these inconsistencies assume a more serious aspect, when
we find them leading to important historical and topographical
errors. It will be necessary to instance a few of these, in order to
convince the English reader that, owing to the incorrect spelling
of Indian names, the grossest mistakes are gradually creeping into
influence.

The first instance may be taken from an Indian city, which has
of late acquired an unhappy celebrity in this country, from Cavm-
pore. Of this city, Thornton says " the importance of this place
is indeed altogether of recent date, and resulting from its selection
in A.D. 1777, as a military cantonment by the British authorities.
It does not appear to be mentioned by Baber in his narrative of
military operations in the Doab ; and it is passed over in the
Ayeen Akbery. The first notice of it is perhaps that by RenneL"
This idea of the modem foundation of Cawnpore springs partly, if
not entirely, from its incorrect spelling. Cavm is the barbarism
adopted by the historian Orme for the Persian word Khdn, " a
lord," and was contemporaneous with the equally barbarous clian,
which was the corruption that foimd favour with Don?. Cw?^\i^x^
was, therefore^ supposed to have been built by aomo MAii^^TMft.^'^^XL
nobleman, and therefore to be a comparatively moieni ^^Mi^-

XVI PREFACE TO THE EDITION OP 1859.

But the correct spelling of the word K^uhpur, shows that it is a
Hindu word, meaning* " the city of K^iih," or Krishnah. It is, in
fact, a place of primaeval antiquity, and from it the K^uhptiriyah
Rajputs have their title, a tribe that entered Awadh (Oudh) many
centuries ago.

By those who have not examined and compared maps of India
and the books of routes through that country, the blunders and
confusion created by incorrect spelling can hardly be imagined.
In some cases quarter-masters of regiments have been unable to
identify the name of a single place in routes furnished to them
from the Government offices, and have sent in new drafts of the
routes with the names spelled in an entirely different manner,
though the places intended were in each case the same.* The
compiler of this Handbook, on comparing the Madras Government
Route-book with the map of the Trigonometrical Survey, was
scarcely able to trace- any similarity in the names. Thus the
Tamraparni river is called in the Route-book Tamberpemy ; in
Thornton's Gazetteer, Tambaravari ; in Walker's map, Pambouri ;
and in the Trigonometrical map, Chindinthura. Thus, too, di% in
Tamil, signifies " river " ; but the compilers of the Route-book,
ignoring that simple fact, continually add " river " to dr, which
they frequently write aur, making it a proper name. Not content
even with this, they sometimes prefix the word middy, a corrup-
tion of the Sanskrit nodi, which also means " river," to dr. Thus
the phrase occurs, "cross the Nuddy-ar river,'* equivalent to
" cross the river, river, river," though all that is meant is, cross a
stream. Giri is " a mountain," and Gadi, in Telugu, or Garhi, in
Hindustani, is " a fort ; " but Maps and Route-books write Gherry,
Ghurry, or some similar corruption, for both " fort " and " moun-
tain." Thus the Neilglierries is written for Nilgiris, " blue moun-
tains," and Giveriah for Vijayadurg, simply a fort. Indifference to
the meaning of names is the prolific parent of another series, of
mistakes, for nearly all Indian names of places are significant, and
the etymology is obscured and the meaning lost by their perver-
sion. Thus KdnhazpUr, which signifies " paper-town," and is so
called on accoimt of a paper manufactory there, is made into

,^_^ ^ee a remarkable instance in the Journal of tkt Bengal Asiatic vSocic^j/ for
-^^H rol ni., p. 285.

PREFACE TO THE EDITION OF 1869. XVii

Raguzpoor, which is utterly meaningless. Kdkamdrt, "crow-killer,**
a village so called from a plant thought by the natives to be
poisonous to crows, is perverted into Caughmaliri/* EranaUr is
pronounced and written Ennore, according to the popular English
mode ; but this means, " What town 1 " If an Indian peasant
were asked the way to What Town, how is it possible that he
could reply satisfactorily 1 This case, and the others that have
been quoted, will, perhaps, be a key to the difficulty experienced
by Englishmen when travelling in India in getting information as ^
to places. They ask an unintelligible question, and if they do not
succeed in extracting the information they want, too often wreak
their anger on the imfortimate and bewildered Indian. In
military expeditions these mistakes have sometimes had most
serious consequences. And it was the consideration of the neces-
sity of furnishing the traveller with names which would be under-
stood by the natives that led to the adoption of the correct mode
of spelling in the present work.

In fact, notwithstanding the difficulty occasioned by the incon-
sistencies of the popular spelling, it was originally intended to
adopt it, and a considerable portion of the work had already been
written according to it, but then the insuperable obstacle that has
been already noticed arose. It was found that the natives them-
selves could not recognize a single word, if spelled and pronounced
according to the common method. It was obviously a matter of
imperative necessity that the traveller should be able to make the
names of places intelligible to the natives. This could only be
effected by spelling and pronouncing the words according to the
native system. Otherwise, to a native of the Madras Presidency,
Masulipatam, Vkagapatam, Tripliccune, Pondicherry, Conjeveramy
Seringapatam, and Travancore would be utterly unintelligible.
The mention of these words would merely elicit from a native a
shake of the head, or an intimation that he did not understand
English. Whereas Machklipainam, VisJidkhpatnam, Tiru vali kedi,
Fuducheri, Kdnchipuram, Shrirangapatnam, Tiruvankodu, would be
understood at once, and the direction would be pointed out, or
the traveller guided to the place. The first tlms tlaa.\* ^-^Oki ^ot.^

♦ For manjr similar perversions, see an article "by Troi. H. H. "^'^^o^ ^■a'VaS^^as^
Geography, Oriental Maffozine, Dec. 1824, p. 186.

XViii PREFACE TO THE EDITION OF 1859.

occurs, however, both the popular and the correct form are given,
and this, it is hoped, will render the new mode less distasteful.

In order, moreover, to save the general reader any trouble, the
popular forms of all places likely to be known to him are inserted
in the Index, as well as the correct forms. Those who desire to
go more deeply into the subject of the spelling of Oriental words,
may consult the Preface to Wilson's Glossary of Indian Terms,
where the whole question is fully and ably discussed. In some
parts of the work the reader will observe mention of the East
India Company as still in existence, a circumstance which, when
the length of time required to print the number of pages of which
the volumes here given to the public consist, is taken into con-
sideration, will need no further explanation. Part of the work
was already in type when the recent change in the administration
of India took place.

In conclusion, the compiler desires to invite corrections for the
numerous mistakes into which he is conscious of having fallen ;
and notices derived from personal observation of the many in-
teresting localities, the description of which has been omitted, are
solicited from all travellers who may use these volumes. It will
be seen that the work has been constructed on such a plan as to
admit of the insertion of a number of Koutes, so that expansion
will be easy. The work thus completed might not, indeed, contain
all, or even the greater part of the objects of interest to be found
in India, but it would, at least, furnish as much as any traveller
would have time to inspect.

London,

January the 20^^, 1859.

CONTENTS

Section L

INTRODUOTOEY INFORMATION.

PAGE

§ a^ Season foe visiting

MADBuiS ... 2

§ &. Outfit . . . . 3

For Gentlemen . . 3

For Ladies . . * . . 4

AltematiYe List by an

Experienced Lady . 5

§ c, (JsuAL Routes to India 6

1. Voyage from South-

ampton to Port Said,
and through the Suez
Canal to Aden, Galle,
and Madras . .
Gibraltar ... 8
Malta . . . . 10
Egypt, Port Said, and

the Suez Canal . 14
The Red Sea . . . 17
Aden . . . .18
Galle . . . . 22

2. Route by the Vessels of

the Messageries Ma-
ritimes from Mar-
seilles . . .22

3. Route Overland from

London to Brindisi,
and by the P. and
O. Steamers to Alex-
andria, Aden, Galle,
and Madras . . 23
Paris . . . .24
Brindisi . . . 25

Alexandria. . . 26
Rail, from Alexandria
to Suez— Time Table 27

4. Route Overland to

Venice or Ancona,
and by P. and O.
Steamers to Brindisi
and Alexandria, and
by Rail to Suez and
thence hy P. and 0,
Steamer to Aden,
Galle, and Madras . 28

PAQB

§ d. Hints begabdino Dress,
Diet, Health, and
Comfort . . .28
The Prevention of Disease 28
Dress . . . .29
Exposure . . . . 29
Food . . . 29,34

Drink 30

Exercise . . . .31
Bathing . . .31, 34
Sleep . . . .32
Moral conduct . . . 32
Cholera . . . .32
Medicine chest . . . 33
Snake bites . . .33
Marching . . . . 33
Stimulants . . .35
Chronological Tables . . 36

Eras, &c 36

Table of the Seasons and
Months in Sky., Hindi,
and Tamil . . .37
Names of the Governors of
Madras and dates of
their accession . . 38
Principal events in Indian

History ... 39
Mul^nmmadan Dynasties . 39
Kings of the Dakhan . 43
Nif^dms of the Dakhan . 55
Rdjds of Vijayanagar . 55
Niiwdbs of the Kamdtik . 68
Pandyan Kings . . 59
Chera and Chela Kings . 64
Tables op Money . . . 67
Tables op Weights and

Measures . . . .68
Castes in the Madras Pre-
sidency 68

Skeleton Routes . . .72
Languages ot ^.Ijsiyvk . . '^^

VOCABULABlIia & \3\k\Si^X^^ 'V^

Indian Teums \x^ei> t^ '^^^'a* ^^ .
Book . .' . • -^^^

CONTENTS.

Section II.

MADEAS OITY.

Landing Place .

New Harbour

The Pier .

The Lighthouse .

The Club .

Hotels .

Conveyances .

The Fort

The Grand Arsenal

St. Mary's Church

Old Tomb on Esplanade

Pacheappah's School .

The Jail . . .

The Hospital

The Government House

Governor's Country-house

Statue of Sir T. Munro

PAGE

139
140
141
141
141
142
142
142
143
144
145
145
145
145
146
147
148

PAGE

Niiwdb of the Kamdtik's Palace 148

Promenade by the sea-shore

Statue of Col. Neill

The Cathedral .

Other Churches .

The Little Mount

The Model Farm .

Race Course

The Great Mount .

Museum .

The Public Gardens,

Park .
Principal Shops
Observatory .
Charities of Madras
College
Hallway Stations

or People's

148
149
149
150
150
151
151
152
152

152
152
153
153
153
153

EOUTES.

Boute
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
S
9

PAGE

Madras to the Seven Pagodas 153

Madras to Porto Novo . .158
Madras to Kdnchiveram . 170
Arkonam to Yirod . . 174
Trichindpalli to Tanjilr . 197
Trichindpalli to Madura . . 214
Madura to Tinnevelli . . 222
TinneveUi to Tutikorin . . 224
Madura to E4mndd and Bd-
meshwaram . . . 225

10 Madras to Bengaliir . . 233

11 Bengaliir to Shivasamudram 255

12 Bengaliir to Shrirangpat-

nam and Maisiir . . 258

13 Maisiir to ShravanaBelagola 264

14 Maisiir to Halebld . * . ' . 265

15 Maisiir to the Nllgiris . 268

16 Bengaliir to G^rusappe . . 269

17 Bengaliir to Kiirg . . 269

18 Maisiir to WynM . . . 274

19 Madras to Koimbatiir . . 276

Route PAGE

20 Koimbatiir to the NOgiris . 282

21 Utakamand to Kdllkot . 293

22 Kdlikot to Hondwar and the

Falls of G^rusappe . . 297

23 Pothaniir to B^piir . . 311

24 Shoraniir to Trivandaram . 313

25 Sea Routes . . . . 324

26 Madras to Baizwdda . . 326

27 Baizwdda to Ganj4m . . 332

28 Madras 'to Gutti . . .342

29 Gundakal Junction to Bijd-

nagar . . . . 346

30 Balldri to Rdmandurg . 355

31 Gundakal to RAlchiir . . 356

32 Rdlchiir to Kalbargah . . 358

33 Kalbargah to HaidardbAd . 361

34 Haidardbdd to Bldar . . 374

35 Bidar to AurangdbM . . 379

36 Aurangdbdd to DaulatdbAd.

The Eliira Caves . . 385

37 Aurangdbdd to Ajanta . 401

-CVZ?^^

'^'^i^

HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS

IX THE

MADEAS PRESIDENCY.

SECTION I.

INTRODUCTORY INFOR^UTIOX.

CONTEXTS. pj^^g

§ a. Season fob Visiting Madras 2

§ h. Outfit 3

§ c. Usual Routes to India :

1. Sea-voyage from Southampton to Gibraltar,

Malta, and Port Said, and through the
Suez Canal to Suez, Aden, Galle, and
Madras 6

2. Route by the Vessels of the Messageries

Mabitimes from London to Marseilles and
through the Suez Canal to Madras . . 22

3. Route Overland from London to Brindisi, and

by the p. and o. steamers to alexandria,
Aden, Galle, and Madras . . . . 23

4. Route Overland from London to Venice or

Ancona, and on by Route 3 to Alexandria,
Aden, Galle, and Madras . . . . 28
§ rf. Hints regarding Health, Diet, and Comfort . . 28

Chronological Tables "i^

Weights and Measures ^%

SkELSTOX ROUTEB ^^'^

Vocabulary and Dialogues . . . . . . "^^

2 a. SEASON FOR VISITING MxiDBAS. Sect. I.

§ a, SEASON FOR VISITING MADRAS.

Those who travel for pleasure >vill, if they are wise, select but one

Eeriod of the year for visiting the Madras Presidency, and that is
'om the 1st of November to the 1st of March. By carefully arrang-
ing their tour so as to end the journey by passing up the W. coast
northward to Bombay this period may be prolonged, perhaps without
risk, to the end of March, but after that time no one who values his
health or his comfoit should remain in the S. of India. By the
middle of March the heat becomes excessive, and as the S. of India
Rly. is constructed on the narrow gauge, the inconvenience and
danger thus occasioned are much increased, for the carnages are so low
and narrow that the sun strikes through them with fiu* greater power
than through the carriages on the broad gauge lines. It must also
be observed that the arrangements on the S. of India line are made
with reference to the convenience of the Indian passengers, and con-
sequently night trains are few or none, so that Europeans are obliged,
if they travel at all, to do so at the slow rate of 10 or 12 m. an hour
under a blazing sun, with the chance in case of a break down (no un-
common occurrence) of remaining stationary for hours without any
shelter but the roof of the carriage, which soon becomes heated through
and through. Arriving at Madras, then, in the fii-st week in November
the traveller will have about four months to visit the most interest-
ing localities in the Southern Presidency, and these will occupy
every moment of liis time. Supposing that he is imwUling to stop
at Galle for a week or 10 days in order to visit from that place
Rameshwaram on the extreme Southern coast of India, his wisest
plan will be at once to start from Madras by the Madras Rly., and
turn off at Yirod, on to the S. of India line, halting for 3 days to see
Trichindpalli, and then go on to Madura, Tinnivelli and Tutikorin.
Thence he mav take boat to Rdmeshwaram, or may return to Madura,
and go by bullock cart over an, at present, execrable road about 50 m.
to that place. He must then return to Madura, and after visiting
the Palnai Hills, and perhaps the Animaleis,go back to Trichindpalli
and visit Tanjurand tlie places which will be indicated in Rte. 3, and
return to Madras by the S. of India Rly. from Gudalur. From
Madras he will next visit Masulipatam in order to see the Great
Irrigation Works on the Kyishiia and Goddvari, and the famous
Tope near Baizwada, and retmn to Madras by the canal. After that
he will proceed by the Madras Rly. to Conjeveram, Tinipati, Gutti,
Ballari and Bijanagar, and there make his election — either returning
to Gundakal, to go to Rdichur, Kalbargah, ^aidardbad, Golkonda,
Bidar, Aurangdbad, Daulatabad, Rozah, and the caves of Eliira and
Ajanta, ending his tour by a visit to Bombay,— or to return to Madras,
and go by Arkdt to Bengaliir and Maisiir, and then pass througli
Kurg to the W. coast, whence he may visit the Nllgiris, and then
descend to Cocinn and Trivandaram, and return to Galle, and thence
^ -England, The time taken in making these tours will l>e found
under the head of Skeleton Rtes.

Sect. I. ' 6. OUTFIT.

§ h. OUTFIT.

It has l>een well observed hy Dr. Ranald I^Iartin, in his work
"The Influence of Tropical Climates on European Constitutions,"
"that the excessive discharj^e from the skin in India renders the
venous blood unnaturally <lense, and causes the European to l)e
more liable to congestive forms of disease." ChUls in Inoia are most
dangerous, and the traveller must, therefore, provide himself with
warm underclothing, as well as that of a lighter description, to guard
against atmospheric changes, esjiecitdly when ascending into the
cooler climate of the hills. A list of useful things sufficient for an
outfit is appendeil, but attention must be particularly drawn to some
very necessary articles which tu-e peculiarly liable to be omitted.
Thus, marine soap is very apt to be forcotteu, and without it a salt-
water bath is but little purifying. AVhite shoes to weai* in the
scorching glare of the sun are another reiiuisite, and sim. sjwctacles
with glasses of a neutral tint, as also a veil to protect the eyes against
the intolerable dust of the roads, a pair of stout leather gauntlets
coming up above the ^vrist half way to the elbow, and a light wii-e-
mask, witli a back piecje to protect the back of the head and neck,
win be found most valuable when visiting the Caves of Eliim ami
Ajanta and other localities, as a protection against bees, by which
ii-ascible little insects many persons have Ijeen dangerously stung, to
such an extent, indeed, that in some cases death has ensued ; cotton,
silk, or Swedish gloves will also be found very useful, and thoso
who wish to shoot on the Western coast, particularly in Travankor,
will do well to provide themselves with gaitei-s steeped in tobacco
juice, as a defence against the leeches that lurk under every stone,
and will even ascend a walking-stick unless it be so steei)ed. Sleep-
ing drawers should be so made as to cover the feet, and articles cf
dress that come to be dealt with by the washerman should have
studs in lieu of buttons. It will be well to remember that any
clothing or wearing apparel sent on in advance to India, or which
under any circumstances arrives there without the o\*nier, pays duty
at the Custom-house. Fire-ai-ms that have not l)een in India befoi-e
are rather heavily taxed, and if they have l>een there before, a certifi-
cate must be signed by their owner to that ett'ect l>efore he will be
allowed to take them away from the Custom house.

Ouffit as Siipplied fm' Gentlemen,

£ 8» d,
1 Flannel Morning Suit 2 16

1 Tweed do 3 15

2 White Twill Coats (g 12/G 1 5

2 „ Drill Waistcoats @ 0/6 13

2 Pairs White Drill Trousers . . . . ® 12/- 1 4

6 Indian Cotton Shirts with Collais . . . (^ %(- ^ '^ V^

9 White long-cloth murtB, linen fronts, &c. . ^. e>|V> 1 \^ <^

^ ¥me fancx-colonred Flanuel ShirtH . . . ^WilV\ "i \^ ^

jU „ Linen Collars , . (^ \\- \ ^ ^

« India Gauze Vests . . ^ * * ' ' (tf^, ^IV^ \ "^^ ^

4 h. OUTFIT. Sect. I.

£ 8, d.

6 Pairs Elastic Cotton Drawers . . . . @ 5/0 113

3 Indian Cotton Sleeping Jackets . . . . @ 5/6 KJ (J

3 Pairs Indian Cotton Sleeping Pyjamas . . % h/^ Ifi (J

12 „ Cotton half Hose (ff; 1/- 12

r> ;; Woollen do ^1/6 1)

12 White Pocket Handkerchiefs @ 1/- 12

Neckties and Scarfs 10

2 Pairs Braces ^. 2/G 5

2 Flannel Cholera Belts @. 3/- G

2 Pairs Walking or Dress Boots 2 10

2 „ CaJf Shoes I o o r

1 „ Canvas do j J ^ i>

1 Airchamber Helmet 110

1 Muslin Pagrl or Turban 2 fi

2 Bullock Trunks ' . ® 35/- 3 10

1 Railway or Hand- Portmanteau 1 16

6 Huckaback Towels @ 1/- 6

Clothes, Hat, Hair, Nail and Tooth Brushes, and Combs . 15

1 Sponge and Bag . . .056

1 Clothes Bag with lock 7 6

1 Best Town-made Hunting Saddle, complete . . . 4 15

1 „ Double Bridle with Bits, complete . . . . 1 15

£45 17 6

N.B. — It will be well to take a dozen or a dozen and a half Indian
cotton shirts. Linen shirts are not desirable, as they are likely to cause
a chill when perspiration is excessive.

Ouffiffor Ladies,

£ 8. d.

1 White Muslin Costume 1 I'J 6

1 Pink do. do 1 !) 6

1 Blue do. do 2 2

1 Box containing assortment of Flowers 12 1>

2 Skirts 1 @ D/H 5 1 ® 13/^ 1 '^ «

6 Chemises, (^ 3/9 ; 3 Chemises trimmed . . . d) 5/- 117(5

.3 Do. (^ 7/- ; 12 Cambric do. . . . @ 7/9 5 14

12 Night-dresses, @ 7/6 ; 9 Night-dresses . . . (^ 9/6 8 15 6

3 Do. fully-trimmed @ 14/- 2 2

12 Pairs Drawers, @ 6/- ; 12 Pairs Drawers . . @ 6/- 6 12

14 Fine Long-cloth Camasols . . . 8 (a, 2/3 ; 6 @ .H/- 1 1(»

^6 Do. do. do. trimmed . . . . ^) 5/6 1 13

12 Tucked Petticoats . . 3 @ 3/9 ; 8 ® 6/6 ; 1 @ 12/- 3 15 3

3 Trimmed do 2 ^ 15/- ; 1 @ 17/- 2 7

4 Embroidered Saxony Flannel Petticoats . . @ 8/6 114

4 Saxony Vests, @ 2/- ; 6 Gauze Merino Vests . . @ 7/- 2 10
2 Muslin Skirts ....... @6/6 013

5 Yards of Dress Material @ 2/44 1111

7i Do. do. do @2/6i 19 1

-s^ Wool Shawls, 1 @ 11/9 ; 1 @ 12/6 ; 12 Paiis Gloves, 2/11 2 19 3

O' Pairs Silk Hose . . . . 3 (5^ 12/6 ; 3 @ 15/6 4 4

(1 IJo. Stripe Cotton Hose . Q \v\ i;

6 X^. Wlu'te Thread Hose \ V^ V\

Sect. I, h. OUTFIT. 5

£ #. d.

2 Do. Fancy do. ^ .3/3 6 «

2 Do. Corsets 1 fe G/11 ; 1 ® 9/6 16 6

2 Dressing-gowns, 21/- ; G Cotton . . . ^2/3 2 iri 6

25 Yards White Silk for Dress (fc 5/6 6 17 6

Making, Trimming, and Lining, do 2 16

Making, Trimming, and Lining Body of Muislin llobe . 15

1 Costume, @ 49/6 ; 1 Costume . . . . fe 47/-. 4 16 ii

1 Do. @ 69/- ; 1 do C^. 99/- 8 8

1 Do. @82/-;l do @ 29/6 6 11 6

6 Pairs Gloves, 3 @ 4/3 ; 3 @ 4/9 ; Haberdasheiy . 8/2 1 15 2

1 Flannel Dressing-gown 16 9

1 Doz. Collars, @ 6/9 ; J doz. Collars . . . @ 3/9 8 8

14 Doz. Linen Cuffs, } doz. 15/6 ; i doz. 14/6 ; J doz. 10/9 .10 5

1 Lace Collarette 18 6

7 Silk Scarfs, @ 12/6 per doz. ; 1 Scarf, 2/6 ; 1 do. 1/6^ . 114
6 Pocket-handkerchiefs, @ 2/3 ; 3 doz. Buttons, \{)\d, . . 16 2
1 Doz. do. (&i9/-: 1 doz. handkerchiefs . . @l6/9 15 9
1 Shawl 16 9

16 Yards Tussore Silk for Dress . . . . @ 4/9 3 16

16 Do. White Dress, ^ 9<f . ; 1 Kecc of MusUn . . @ 30/- 2 2

1 Umbrella 18 9

1 Pair Button Boots, 26/- ; 1 Pair French do., 19/6 . . . 2 4 6

1 Do. Kid Lace do., 15/6 ; 1 do. Oxford do.. 17/6 . . 1 13

1 Do. Spanish Shoes, 9/6, and Bows for do.. 2/6 . . . 12

1 Do. French Kid Boots, 14/-. and Bows for do., 3/6 . . 17 6

1 Do. Bronze Embroidered Shoes 10

1 Do. White Kid Boots, 14/-, and Satin bows, 3/6 . .0176
1 3-ft. 6-in. Airtight Dress Box in Deal, Lock, box and

name painted . . 440

1 2-ft. 3-in. Bullock Trunk 1 15

Painting name on do 2

Alternative LtJtt by an Expet'ienced Lady.

2 Dozen Chemises, not Irish linen, but thin Calico or embroidery

Cambric.
18 Night Dresses of thin Long Cloth.
18 Pairs of Drawers of do.

1 Dozen Silk Gauze Drawers.
18 Vests of Silk Gauze.

4 Flannel Petticoats.

8 Pairs Flannel Drawers.

1 Dozen Lille Thread Stockings.

1 Dozen Balbriggan do., unbleached preferable as they easily bleach

in Indian sun.

3 Pairs White Silk, 3 Black Silk, Stockings.

4 Pairs of Corsets.

6 Evening Lace and Worked Pocket-handkerchiefs.

2 Dozen Morning Cambric do.

1} Dozen Linen Collars ; Ditto, Linen Cuffs.
8 Petticoat Bodices.
6 MThite Morning Petticoats ; 6 Evening do.

2 Warm Winter Petticoats or SkiHs.

3 Pairs of white evening Boots or Shoes
3 Ih. of blacic do.

6 c. USUAL, ROUTES TO INDIA, Sect. I.

1 Cloth Habit.

1 Serge do.

1 Tall riding Hat.

1 Round do. (Terai felt, a good kind).

1 Helmet or Sun Topi.

2 Bonnets.

2 Hats for driving or walking.
1 Waterproof; 1 Ulster.

1 Umbrella ; 1 Parasol.

2 Pairs Goloshes.

i Dozen Pairs of Calf-skin or Dog-skin riding gloves.
1 Warm Shawl.
1 Evening Wrap.
1 Flannel Dressing-gown.
4 White Doria or Muslin do.
4 Dressing Jackets or Peignoirs.
Morning Dresses : —
1 Good Black Silk.
6 Cambrics.

4 Light and dressy toilettes of Muslin or Gauze.
1 Serge or Stuff Dress.
Evening Dresses : —

1 Black Brussels Net, and 5 others suitable for balls.
6 For dinner of Satin or Silk or thinner materials. The colour
Blue to be avoided as it spots yellow.
6 Indoor Boots or Shoes.
6 Outdoor do. do.
18 Pairs Morning Kid-gloves.
18 Evening do.

It is a mistake taking much of anything to India now that by Parcels
Post dresses, bonnets, boots, shoes, and everything can come out easily
and cheaply as one requires them, instead of having a quantity of old-
fashioned things in store.

It is a good plan to take a supply of tapes, cottons, pins, hairpins,
needles, buttons, etc.

§ c. usual roptes to india.

1. Voyage prom Southampton to Port Said, and through the
Suez Canal to Aden, Galle and Madras.

The comfoil; of the voyage depends luucli on the choice of the

ship, and somewhat on that of the cabin. As a rule, those who suttV»r

from heat should choose the largest ships ; as in the smaller vessels,

from the " Boklmm," of 2933 tons, downward, the poits are closed,

even when there is but little sea on. The " Austmlia," the " Hiu-

dostan," the "Indus," the "Khedive,'' the "Mirzapore," the "Nepaul,"

the " Pekin " and the " Peshawur," are favourite ships, but the best

of all is the " Deccan," which is not only a lai"ge ship, but has a

l)oop, and the ports of the cabins in that part of the ship are never

closed, except in heavy gales. In going through the Ked Sea to

IndJa the cabins on the sttirboard side are the best, as they do not

Mice the morning sun, and from the Red Sea to Aden they have the

fr/nd on their side. On the return voyage tlie caVivaa on m^ \s\x\io?LYd

sjc/e nre better. The cabins on the starboard aide ov\jo%\\^ Wvi

Sect. I. SOUTHAMrTON TO PORT SAID. 7

Doctor's should be avoided, as the dirty linen is pileil up every day
at their doors. To keep food, fruit or sweets in one's cabin is the
sure way to attract rats and cock-roaches. It will be well to carry
one's o>vn tea and tea-pot, and to make tea for oneself, as the ship
tea is boiled with the milk in one large cauklron, and is seldom well
tasted. On going on board the first thing to be done is to secure a
seat at table, as near as possible to the Captain, as there the rolling is
less felt. The 5 or 6 seats next the Captain are generally reserved
for his friends, but the other seats are allotted to the first occupants^
or to those who first place their cards there.

The fare by this rte. is £68, exclusive of charges for all drink-
ables, except tea, cofl^ee, lime Juice and water, and water. It is usual
to give £i as a fee to the cabm steward, 10«. to the one who waits on
you at table. The doctor also is paid by those who put themselves
under his care. The saving in point of money, as compared with the
exj^ense of the overland rte., is about £15, there is much less trouble,
and little or no risk of losing baggage, or of liaving it opened, and
articles stolen from it. To those, too, who have not before seen
Gibraltar, Malta, and the Suez Canal, the voyage is not without objects
of interest. Between the Channel and these places thei-e is seldom
much to be seen. The first place sighted is genendly Cape La Hague,
or Hogue, on the E. coast of Cotentin in Fi-ance, off which, on the
19th of May, 1692, Admiral Kussell, aftem'artls Earl of Oi-ford,
defeated De Tourville, and sunk or burned 16 French men-of-war.
On the thiitl day Cape Finisterre (finis teiTae), a promontory on the
W. coast of Galicia m Spain, and in N. lat. 42° 54', and W. long.
9° 20', will probably be seen, off which Anson defeated the French
fieet in 1747. The next land sighted will be, perhaps. Cape Koca,
near Lisbon, and then Cape St. Vincent in N. lat. 37* 3', W. long.
8° 59' at the S.W. comer of the Poiluguese province Algarye, off
which Sir G. Kodney, on January the 16th, 1780, defeated the
Spanish fleet, and Sir J. Jems won his earldom on the 14th of
February, 1797, and Nelson the Bath, after taking the "S. Josef" and
the " S. Nicholas " of 112 guns each. This cape has a fort upon it,
and the white cliffs, 150 feet high, are honeycombed by the waves,
which break with great violence upon them. Just before entering the
Straits of Gibraltar, Cape Trafalgar will also probably be seen in N.
lat. 36° 9', W. long. 6° 1', immortalized bjr Nelson's victory of the
21st of October, 1805. Gibraltar comes next in sight, and the distances
between England and it and the remaining halting-places will be seen
in the following table :—

Names of Flacen. I Miles.

Southampton to Gibraltar
Gibraltar to Malta .
Malta to Port Said . . .
Port Said to Suez, as the crow flies
Suez to Aden • . . ,
Aden to Galle • . . ,
/ OaUe to Madras ., . ,

Totals. 1 General Total.

7134

8 C, USUAL ROUTES TO INDIA, Sect. I.

Gibraltar, — In order to see thoroughly this most remarkable place,
it would be requisite to spend a week at it. The mail steamers, how-
ever, stay only 6 hours, and sometimes even less, and this is too short
a time to view the fortifications, or ascend the heights. Those who
would exhaust the sights of the place must proceed thither by one
mail steamer, land, and await the coming of the next ; or tliey may
travel overland from London to Bayonne, Madrid, Cordova, Seville,
and Cadiz, and see something of those interesting places in a week,
come by coach to Algesiras, and reach Gibraltar by a steamer, which
runs thence to it and back three times daily. Otherwise they may
come from Cadiz, whence steamers run to Gibraltar twice a week,
makingthe voyage in about 8 or 9 hours. Gibraltar was called Calpe
by the Phoenicians, and was reckoned as one of the Pillars of Hercules,
the other being Abyla, now Apes* Hill. Gibraltar was taken from the
Spaniards in 711 a.d. by Tarik ibn Zdv^d, an Arab general under
Valid, 6th Khalifah of the Ommiades (D'^Herbelot, Tharek ben Giad),
from whom it was called Jabal al Tarik = Gibraltar. In 1161 the
fortifications were greatly strengthened, and it was not till 1309 that
it was captured by Ferdinand IV. of Spain. In 1334 the Moors
retook it, but the Spaniards under the Duke of Medina Sidonia
finally wrested it from them in 1462. In 1704, during the war of the
Spanish succession, the English, aided by the Austrians and Dutch,
and commanded by Sir George Rooke, stormed the place on the 24th
of July, there being a garrison of only 150 men in it. The French
and Spaniards then besieged it under Marshal Tesse, but were beaten
off with the loss of 10,000 men. In 1727 the Spaniards attacked it
again and failed, after losing 5,000 men. On the 11th of July, 1779,
the Spaniards commenced the memorable siege, which was not com-
pletely terminated till March 12th, 1783, when General Elliott, after-
wards Lord Heathfield, and the Due de Crillou arranged terms on the
neutral ground. Since that time it has remained an uncontested
possession of the English.

The Rock of Gibraltar first comes in sight at the distance of
about 10 miles. Rounding Point Camero, and breasting Europa
Point, you find yourself within a sheltered and spacious bay six
miles wide and ten deep. The soundings have decreased from 24
to 16 fathoms, and the deep blue of the sea has changed instan-
taneously to green. The defensive strength of the place is not at
once perceptible. The most formidable batteries are concealed in
s^allenes hewn out of the rock half way up, or lie so near to the sea
Ene that they are hidden by the vessels moored around. Gibraltar is
a vast rocky promontory, which on the N. side rises in a perpendicular
precipice 1,200 ft. high, and ascends on the S. side to 1,408 ft. It is
3 m. m length, and mum i m. to | in breadth. It is joined to the
main land by a low sandy isthmus, 1^ m. in length. On all sides
but the W. it is steep and rugged, but on that side there is a general
slope from 200 to 300 feet from the rock down to the sea. On this
side the eye catches 3 high points. Towards the N. is seen the Rock
Oun, or Wolfs Crag, J, 250 ft. above sealeVel ; in the centre rises the
^fferSI^rnal Station, or El Hacho, 1,255 ft. "high, an»I outke S. is
CfMnm'a Tower, which reaches ft height of l,40Qit» "a^Tc^^V x^^Y

Sect. I. GIBRALTAll, 9

descends to Windmill Hill Flats, a level plateau ^ ni. long, which
ends in a still lower pkteau from 100 to 50 ft. above the sea, calleil
Eu2X)pa Flats. The new mole, landing-place, and dockyard, are
almost parallel on the W. side to O^Hara's Tower on the E. On
landing, one may w^alk or drive to the left up Main Street as far as
the Alameda, where the band plays. It was the parade-gromid imtil
1814, when Sir George Don made a garden of it, and it is now readly
lovely with scarlet geraniums and heliotropes growing in rich pro-
fusion, and many pretty shrubs. There is a colunm here brought fium
the ruins of Lepiaa by the captain of H.M.S. " Wevmouth," and sur-
mounted by a bust of the Duke of Wellington. There is also a bust
of General Elliott, the hero of the great sieee. In passing throiigh
the main street one may purchase excellent gloves and silk neck-ties,
as well as lace, at a cheap rate. Half way is the Exchange, with the
Club House to the W., and the King's Arms to the E., these being
the two principal hotels. There is a table dTiote at the Club House.
The Chamber of Commerce presides over the Exchange, which was
founded in 1818, when Sir G. Don was governor, and there is a bust
of him in front of the building. There is a commercial library at the
Exchange, supported by annual subscriptions. The garrison library'
was established in 1793 by Captain Drinkwater, who wrote an account
of the siege. In one of the upper rooms is a model of the Kock, which
shows every house in Gibraltar. The town lies a mile N. of the
landing-place, and the cathedral, which has some handsome ornamen-
tation, stands near the centre of the E. side of it. Returning south-
ward through the South Port Gate after visiting the Catheihiil, one
may look at the dockyard, and passing by the south barracks by
taking the lower of two roads, reach Europa Pass, beyond which is a
plateau with another range of barracks. Beyond these is the summer
residence of the governors, called " The Cottage," built by General
Fox, beyond which is^Monkey's Case, where the ground becomes too
precipitous to pass farther. The governor's othcial residence in
South Port Street, which is still called " The Convent," once be-
longed to Franciscan friars. It is a good residence, with a small, but
pretty garden.

The short stay of the mail steamer, 6 hours, will not permit a
passenger to see, perhaps, even as much of the Rock as is covered with
the town and the Alameda G^dens, and it will certainly be impossible
for him to visit the Heights, but they are worth inspection. From
the " Rock Gun " there is a fine view of the Ronda Mountains and
the Sierra Nevada, and before reaching it the Moorish Castle is first
come to, which is said to date from 746 a.d. There is a massive
tower, called the Torre de Omenaga, under which are some well con-
structed tanks. Passing through the castle, the visitor, if he has pro-
vided himself with a permit, can see the wonderful galleries exca-
vated beyond it by convict labour. At the Signal House, bread and
cheese and beer can be obtained. There is li-om it a noble vi«v ,
which includes the Atlas Mountains, Ceuta, and ^a.\\iti.T^, evi^MiJ^
with the Bay of Tangiers. From the central "heiglvt \\\e TOVxi\a Tvy^%^
to the southern and highest point, called O^Haxa'a Tawe,T,^Ti^«>SX.«c
r&^ijpg tbh 2t h requisite to turn back, and go do>f?u iXi'i ^^*^^'^-

10 C. USUAL ROUTEJi TO INDIA. Sect. I.

ranean Stairs to a Lattery, whence a good road leads to Wiiidinill Hill
and on to the town. Between Rock Gun and O'Hara's Tower live a
few monkeys, which are jealously protected. S. of the Signal Station,
and 1,100 ft. above the sea, is a remarkable cave called St. Nichaito.
After passing an entrance only 6 ft. wide, a hall 200 ft. long and 60
ft. high is entered by the ^asitor. It is supported by stiilactite pillars
like gothic arches. Beyond are smaller caves, which have been
traversed to a distance of 288 ft. In Windmill Hill are the 4 Genista
caves, where many bones of men and animals have been discovered.

The morning gun at Gibraltar is fired at from 3 '45 to 6*20 a.m.
according to the season, and the first evening gun at from 5*20 to
8*20 p.m. The second evening gun is fired at 9 and 9*30 p.m. At
the first evening gun the drawbridge at the Land Port is drawn up,
and the Water Port, which is for caiTiages, is closed. Beyond these
gates is a causeway leading into Spain, with the sea on the 1., and the
" Inundation," a sheet of water so called, on the rt. Beyond these
is a piece of ground belonging to the Rock, called the North Front,
and on it are the cemetery, the cricket-ground, and the race-course.
Fui'ther to the rt. is a drive called " Riimsgate and Margate." Across
the isthmus is a line of English sentries, then the Neutml Ground,
and then the Spanish sentries. A shoi-t distiince beyond this is the
ground called the Western Beach, and at 6 m. from Gibraltar is a
small hill, on the top of which is the towTi of S. Roque, and before
reaching it the ruins of the ancient city Caiteia are passed. Four m.
from S. Roque is an inn called the 2nd Ventii, and then a ride through
the cork woods of about 4 m. brings the visitor to the Convent of
Ahnoi-ainia and the Long Stables. Ten m. from Gibraltar, and beyond
the Rivers Guadarauque and Palmones, is the town of Algesiras,
where there is good anchorage, and steiuners 4. times a week to Malaga,
Almeria, Alicante, Valencia, and Barcelona. There are steamers from
Gibraltar 2 or 3 times a week to Tangiers, but those who desire to
visit Ceuta, the convict station for Spain, must go in a sailing vessel.

Malta, — Fix>m Gibraltar to Malta is 4 days' steaming. On the way
Algiers may possibly be seen, its white buildings stretching like a
triangle with its base on the sea, and the apex on higher ground.
Cape Fez, and the promoutoiy of the Seven Capes, jagged, irregular
lieadlands, ^vill probably also be seen, as also Cape Bon, the most
northern point of Africa, and the Island of Pantellaria, the ancient
Cossyra, between Cape Bon and Sicily. It is 8 m. long, volcanic,
and rises to a height of more than 2,000 ft. There is a town of the
same name near the s^a-shore, on the western slope, where there is
much cultivation. It is used by the Italians as a penal settlement,
and is rather smaller than Gozo. The Maltese group of Islands con-
sists of Gozo, Comino, and Malta, and stretches from N.W. to S.E.,
the total distance from S. Dimitri, the most W. point of Gozo, to Rds
Benhisa, the most E. part of Malta, being about 35 m. From the
nearest point of Gozo to Sicily is 55 m., and Africa is 187 m. distant
A'oi/2 Malta, Steamers i-un from Malta to Syi*acuse every Tuesday,
/itaa Malta to Tunis 3 times a month in 22 hours, the fare being

Malta lies in N. lat, 35° 53' 49% E. long. 14'' SO' %^\ U \s \n \si.

Sect. I. MALTA. 11

long and 8 bi'oad. Its area, together with tliat of Guzo, w 1 16 m|. hi.,
and the pop. of the thi-ee islandH is about 150,000. It is a cak*areous
TOck, the highest i>oint being 590 ft. al>ove the sea level. Towanls
the S. it ends in precipitous cliffs. It has a ban-en ap^Miarunce, but
thei*e are niany fertile gardens and fields, enclosed m high walls,
whei*e line oi-anges, grapes, and figs, and crops, retuniing fi-oni 'M) to 60
fold, are growni. The Maltese language is a niixtui-e of Ambic and
Italian, but most of the townspeople have sufficient knowledge of
Italian to transact business in that tongue. The ]X)rt of Malta is
situated somewhat to the E. of the centi-e of the northern shore of the
island. It consists of 2 fine harbours, sejximted by the naiTow pio-
montory called Mount Xiberras, or ScibeiTas. The western or
quarantine harbour, protected by Fort Tigna on the AV., is called
Mai-samuscatta ; the other is Valetta, or the great harlH)ur, and it is
there that the men-of-war are moored, while the mail steamers enter
the qimitintine harbour. The enti-ance to the great harboiu* is pro-
tected on the W. by Fort St. Elmo at the end of Scilieniis, and on
the E. by Fort Ricasoli, both veiy formidable. At Fort St. Elmo is
one of the finest light-houses in the Meditentmean. The great
hai'bour rims away into numei-ous ci-eeks and inlets, in which are the
dockyard, victualling-yard, and iu-senal, all of which could be swept
by the guns of St. Angelo, which is a fort Ijehind St. Elmo. The
mail steamer moors close to the shore, and the chai^ge for landing is
one shilling for a boat, which will carry 4 jHiople. The lH>atinen,
who are sufficiently extortionate and vitupei-ative, will of course
demand more, but the above is the legal fare. On landing, a long
flight of steps is ascended to the Strada San Marco, which leads to
the principal street, Strada S. Reale, -J mile long, in the to>ni of
Valetta, so called from Jean de la Valette, Grand Master of the
Knights of St. Jolin of Jerusalem, who built it after the Turkish
armament sent against Malta by Sultan Sulaiman II. had Ijeen i-e-
pulsed. The foundation stone was laid on the 28th of March, 1566,
and the building was completed 13th of May, 1571. The architect
was Girohimo Cassai*. On the E. side of the great hai'bour is the
town called Citta Vittoriosa.

On reaching the Strada Reale the visitor will tiuii to the 1. and
soon find himself at Dunisford's (in Badeker, Daiisfield)Hotel, opposite
ixart of St. John\s Cathedral. Other hotels are the Imperial, Cam-
bridge, Croce di Malta and Angleten'e ; and a very good meal can be
got for 2s, (id. Excellent fish, and among them red midlet, are
generally to be had. Having secured a point (Vapimi, the visitor
may walk to the house of the P. and O. Conirum/s agent in Stnvda
Mercanti, if he wishes to make enquiries, or he may set out at once
to see the sights. Close to the Hotel is the statue of Aiitone Vilhena,
a Portuguese Gmnd Master of the Knights of St. John. St. John's
Cathedral is close by, and deserves more time for inspection than can
be given to it in a nying visit. The floor is paved with slabs beoxm^
the arms of scores of knights, who liave been intexieOL m \\m ^xsccslS.,
In the &i8t chapel on the it,, the altar-piece Tepre8ftii\.& >i\v'fc "^^^iSjAr
iDgofJohn the Baptist, and is by M. Angelo Caiava^^o. \vi.^^
next chapel, which Belonged to the Portwniette, ax^ \\i^ movL\xxxv«oX»»

12 t\ USUAL ROUTES TO INDIA.. Sect. I.

of Mp,noel Pinto and Grand Master Manoel de Vilhena, wliicli latter
is of bronze. The third, or Spanish Chapel, has the monuments of
Grand Masters Roocafenile and N. Caloner and two others. The
fourth chapel belonged to the Proven9als. The fifth chapel is sacred
to the Virgin, and here are kept the town keys taken from the
Turks. On the 1. of the entrance is a bronze monument of Grand
Master Marc Antonio Sondadario. The first chapel on the 1. is the
sacristy. The second chapel belonged to the Austrians, tlie third to
Italians, and here are pictures, ascribed to Caravaggio, of St. Jerome
and Mary Magdalene. In the fourth, or French Chapel, are monu-
ments of a Grand Master and of a son of Louis Philippe, who died in
1808. The fifth chapel on the 1. belonged to the Bavarians, and
hence a staircase descends to the crypt, where aitj the sarcopliagi of
the first Grand Master who ruled in Malta, L'Isle Adam, and of La
Valette and others.

The Chiesa Agostino may also be looked at, and the Governor's
Palace should be next visited. It is close to the Strada Reale, and
contains pictures of, 1. Queen Victoria, after Winterhalter (copy by
Kopervein) ; 2. George III. ; 3. George IV. , after La\iTence by
Carmana ; 4. Louis XIV., by Letrec ; 5. Louis XV., after Ledu ;
6. Duke of Bavaria, by Ponto Battoria; 7. L'Isle Adam; 8. La Valette
and 2 others ; and an armoury full of intei-esting relics. For each
Governor there is the figure of a man in aimour carrying his
escutcheon. Here is preserved the original deed granted to the
Knights of St. John of Jerusalem by Po|ie Pascal the Second in 1126,
and the deed when they left Rhodes in 1522. There are also the
sword and axe of Dragart, the Tui-kish general killed in the siege of
1565, the three silver trumpets which sounded the retreat from
Rhodes, nnd the armour of a gigantic Spanish knight, who is said to
have measured 7 ft. 4 in., and many curious trophies. The Library
close to the Palace contains 40,000 volumes, and some Phceniciau
and Roman antiquities. After this it will be well to ascend to the
highest battery, which commands a fine view of both harboius and
of the fortifications. Here among geraniums and orange blossoms
is buried Sir F. Maitland, King Maitland, as he was called. There
are several statues of Grand Masters and Governors in the walk on
the ramparts. The Opera House, the Bourse, the Courts of Justice,
once the Auberge d'Auvergne, and the Clubs (the Union Club was
the Auberge de Provence), and the statues of LTsle Adam and La
Valette, all in the Strada Reale, and the House of the Spanish
knights, may also be looked at ; and then a carriage with two horses
should be hired at 6«., and a visit paid to the Monastery of St.
Francis d'Assise, where are the bodies of many monks, dried long
years ago, and more or less decayed, but all hideous and revolting.
This place is about 2 m. from the landing-stairs, and 24 m. beyond
it is the Governor's country Palace of S. Antonio, where is a lovely
garden mth creepers of astonishing beauty, and cypresses 40 ft. high,
liif ire)} iis many luxuriant orange trees. About j mile further to the
aS Wl Is Citta Vecebia, which stands on a ridge from 200 to 300 ft. higli,
nIfozxUng a view over nearly the whole island. TYifexe \a a ivw^ CVwwvilv
yj^J-e, the dome of wliich in not much inferior to tliaX oi ^\.^«vx)es^\\\

Sect. I. MALTA. 13

diameter. This is all that it is possible to see during the short stay
of the mail steamers, but those who have more leisure can visit St.
Paul's Bay at the N.W. extremity of the island, ijvith the statue of
bronze erected on an islet at the mouth of the bay, and the Cartha-
ginian or Phoenician ruins at Hagiar Chem, properly Hajar Kaim,
"upright stone," near the village of Casal Crendi, which were excavated
in 1839 by order of Sir H. Bouverie. These ruins consist of walls of
large stones fixed upright in the ground, forming small enclosures,
connected with one another by passages, and all contained within
one large enclosure. The main entrance is on the S.S.E., and a
passage leads from it into a Court, on the left of which is an altar,
with the semblance of a plant rudely sculptured on it. There is a
slab near the altar, and on it a block, on which are sculptured two
volutes, like the ornament at the foot of Astarte. This may have
been added by the Phoenician colonists to the rude temple of still
earlier inhabitants. Similar remains are found in other spots, and
among them the "Torre dei Giganti," "Giants* Tower," in Gozo,
on the S.E. shore. Malta is said to have been occupied by the
Phoenicians in 1500 B.c.,and by the Greeks in 750 B.C. The Cartha-
ginians got possession of it in 500 B.O., and the Romans took it after
the sea-fight of Putatia in B.c. 215. The Goths and Vandals invaded
it in 420 a.d. In 520 a.d. Belisarius made it a province of the
Byzantine Empire, and the Muslims conquered it in 730 a.d., and
Count Roger, tne Norman, captured it in 1100 a.d. It then passed
to Louis IX., to the Count of Anjou, and to the Kings of Castile,
and then to Charles V., who gave it, in 1530, to the Knights
Hospitallers of St. John of Jerusalem. On May the 18th, 1565, the
Turks attacked St. Elmo, St. Angelo, and Sanglea, but the siege was
raised on the 8th of September (see Major Whitworth Porter's
" History of the Knights of Malta," Liongmans, 1858). When Grand
Master La Valette fortified Mount Sciberras he called it Citta
liumilissima, but the town came to be called by his own name. Tlie
Knights had then their own Mint, fleet and army, and acci-edited
Ambassadors to foreign Courts. In the Archives are letters from
Henry VIII., Charles II. and Anne, addressed to them as princes.
They sent a loan of 500,000 li\Tes to Louis XVI. On the 7th of
September, 1792, the French Directory commanded the Order to be
annulled, and seized all its French possessions. Provence had then
2 Grand Priories, 84 commanderies, with a rental of 597,612 scudi.
On the 7th of June, 1798, Buonaparte arrived with a fleet of 18
ships of the line, 18 frigates, and 600 transports, and Malta was
surrendered. A tree of liberty was planted before the Palace, the
decorations of the Knights were burned, 'and the churches, palaces
and charitable houses at Valetta and Citta Vecchia were pillaged.
On the 2nd of September, 1795, when the French tried to pull down
the decorations in the Cathedral a general revolt took place. A
French officer and 65 men were killed, and Nelson sent Captain.
Alexander John Ball with a frigate to aid the Maltese, ^\M[\fc^^'W5v
himself blockaded Valetta. In December, 1799, t\ie ^aOl\v oaOi ^^"Oa.
Foot arrived, and in June, 1800, the 35th and 48t\i, TLnAct OiCSvgwN.
/%»^ Hie French were reduced to such exlTemitW^ Ai\v»X ?^ ^^

14 c. USUAL ROUTES TO INDIA. Sect. I.

sold for Is, Id.y and on the Bth of September, 1800, their commander,
General Vaiibois, surrendered. Over the main guard-room in St.
George's Square is written :

" Magnae ct invictjB Britannia)
Melitensium amor et Europse vox
Has insulas confirmat A.D. 1814."

It must be added that the Aiiberge d'ltiilie is now the Engineers'
Office ; the Auberge de Castille has become the head-quartei-s of
the Artillery ; the Auberge de France, in tlie Strada Mezzodi, is
now the house of the Comptroller of Military Stores ; and the
Auberge d'Aragon is where the General of the Ganison resides.
The Aiiberge cVAllemagiie was removed in order to erect St. Paul's
Chiirch on its site. The Anglo-Bavarian Auberge is tlie head-
quarters of the regiment stationed at St. Elmo. The Military
Hospital has the largest room in Europe, 480 ft. long, erected in
1628 by Grand Master Vasconcelos. The patients used to l)e served
on silver, but Howaitl, who visited tlie building in April, 1786, says,
" the patients are served by the most dirty, ragged and inhuman
persons." Below the Military Hospital is the Civil Hospital for
Incm-ables, founded by Caterina Scappi in 1646. Where the Stmda
Mercanti joins the Strada S. Giovanni a large hook may be observed,
which fonnerly ser^^ed as the Pillory. The house where Napoleon
stopped in 1798 is now a livery stable. For further information
consult the Guide to Malta, included in Murray's Handbook to the
MediteiTanean. The island on which the Quai-antine House stands
was captured by the Turks in 1565. The Parlettiirio there is a
long, narrow room near the anchorage, divided by a banker, wheie
the gold and silver filigree work, the cameos, bracelets and brooches
in mosaic, and the bijouterie for which Malta is famous are sold.
Maltese lace and silk embroidery should be bought under the advice
of an expert, for the vendors in geneiul demand extravagant prices.
It only remains to be mentioned that in spite of the legend that
since St. Paul's visit all noxious reptiles have left the island, snakes
and scorpions exist in Malta. Dr. Buist mentions having seen a
snake killed by a sentry on duty. In the wall of a house in Strada
Strella and Strada Brittmnica is a stone with an Arabic inscription,
dated Thursday, 16th Shabdn, 569 a.h. — 21st March, 1174 a.d., for
which see Journal Koy. As. Soc, vol. vi., p. 173.

Egypt, Port Said, and the Suez Canal. — The land alK)ut Port Said is
so low that the approach to the hai'bour would be difficult were it not
for a light-house 160 ft. high, built of wooden moulds filled with
concrete, which stands on the seashore to the rt. of the harbour
close to the W. mole, and shows an electric light flashing every
3 seconds, and visible 20 m. off. The harbour is formed by 2 break-
waters, of wluch the western is 1 m. and f , or, more j)recisely, 2726
yaixls long. The eastern is 1962 yards long, and is distant from the
o^?jer 2500 y&Yds. A red light is shown at the end of the W. Mole,
a/ir/ a green one at the end of the E. These jetties are made of huge
hlocks of concrete, and, mice the works were \wv^\iv, \\\fe *^^ W^
^f^cofiefl ^ mile. A hank has formed to the li^.W. ol t\v^ e\\\>\m^^.

Sect. I. EGYPT — PORT SAID— SUEZ CANAL. 15

having only 4 to 5 fathoms water on it, and it inci-wwen, U'inj^ caused
by a current which sets along the shore, and meeting tlie sea rolling
in from the N., is forced back, and deposits its silt. Inside the W,
jetty another bank is forming, and extends 1(K) ft. ever>' year. In
1874 the channel was dredgeil out in December to 29 ft., and by
February 1875 it had filled again to 25 ft. A prulxible remedy would
be to b. a jetty at the Ist Boghaz, or Nile Mouth, to the W., which
is 6 m. off, and another at Damietta, 30 m. to the W. The E. jettv
has not accumulated any silt, as it is protected by that to the W.
Port Said town consists of wooden houses, which would bum like
tinder. Opposite the anchorage on the Marina is the French office,
where pilots are got, and where they take a note of tlie ship's draught,
breadth, length, and tonnage. In this office there is a wooden plan of
the canal, along which wooden pegs, with flags, are placed, showing
the exact position of every vessel passing through the canal. Steamers
generally coal here, so there is time to walk about and see the place.
The Arab quarter lies to the W., and contains over 6,600 soiUs an<l a
mosque. In the European quarter there are, besides the French
office, the Russian office, and a few hundred yards to the S. the Dutch
office, which is the largest building in the to>vn. The Place de
Lesseps in the centre of this quarter has a nice garden, and some
houses of a better sort, and among them the Hotel du Louvre to the
S., opposite the P. and 0. office, and the Hotel de France to the W.
The streets swarm with flies, and mosquitoes also are numerous. At
the Custom House a collection of photographs may be seen of all the
criminals, male and female, expelled from Egypt, so that they may be
recognised if they attempt to return.

The canal* is in round numbers 100 m. in length, and as far as
Ismallia, that is for about 42 m., it runs due N. and S. It then bends
to the E. for about 35 m., and is again almost straight for the last 20 m.
On the W. of the canal, as far as Al Kantarah (tlie Bridge), that is
for about Jth of the way, there is a broad expanse of water, called Lake
Manzalah, and for the rest of the distance to the W., and tlnj whole
distance to the E., a sandy desert, on which foxes, jackals, hyenas,
and, it is said, occasionally even lions, wander at night. A few miles
S. of the Ras al Aish, 18 m., or 34 kil. from Kantarah, and 10 m. from
Port Said, the old Pelusiac branch of the Nile is crossed, and 8 m. to
the N.E. are the ruins of the ancient city of Pelusium. Kantarah
(the Bridge) was a principal station for caravans on the great highway
l)etween Egypt and Syria. Ten m. to the W. is Tel al Daphne, the
site of Daphne, the Tahpannes of Judith, i. 9. At 2 m. S. of Kan-
tarah the canal enters tne Lake Ballali, full in winter, shallow in
summer, and after 12 m. reaches the promontory Al Fardanah, which
it cuts through. Thence, after 4^ m., it reaches the higher ground of
Al Girsh, to the W. of which a small canal joins the maritime canal
to the fresh water canal. This is the highest groiuid in the isthmus,
being 65 ft. above sea level. From this to the town of Ismallia
is 8 m. A broad road lined with trees leads from l\\e \«rv^\Mv^-^"sxR.^
across the fresh water canal to the Quad Mehemet. tW To^ia cv\Vs»

* For a history of the ainal, see "Hflmlbook of Egypt," JoA>^'Nl\\tTTvy,\%r;^.

16 e, USUAL ROUTES TO INDIA. Sect. I.

the town into 2 quarters, E. and W. In the W. quarter are tlie Hotel
des Voyageurs, the stat., the hinding quays of the fresh water canal,
and laj^e blocks of warehouses, and beyond them the Arab village.
In the E. part are the houses of the employes, the residence of the
Khediv, and the works by which water is conveyed from the iresh
water canal to Port Said. These are worth visiting. There is good
water-fowl shooting here, and some antelopes are to be found. The
lish of Lake Timsah are better flavoured than those of the Mediter-
ranean. The town has 3000 to 4000 souls. After 4^ m. the canal
enters Lake Timsah or Bahr al Timsah, " the Lake of the Crocodile,"
to which the Red Sea is said to have formerly extended. The course
is marked here by buoys. After 6 m., the canal reaches the higher
ground of Tussum, where is the tomb of Shaikh Hanadik. The
level here is 20 ft. above the sea, and liere the first working encamp-
ment in the S. half of the isthmus was formed in 1869. Three m.
to the S. is Serapeum, where the level is from 15 to 25 ft. above the
sea. About the centre of this ground are some remains which are
thought to mark the site of a temple of Serapis. Here, too, are traces
of a cutting, thought to mark the course of Pharaoh Necho's canal.
A mile and a half from this the canal enters the Bitter Lakes, where
the course is buoyed. These lakes are the ancient Gulf of Herseopolis.
At the N. and S. end of the principal lake is an iron lighthouse 65 ft.
high, on a solid masonry base. The light is of the 4th order. After
28 m. the deep cutting of Shaliif is reached, in which is a band of
rock, sandstone, with layers of limestone and conglomerate, in which
fossil remains of the shark, hippopotamus, tortoise, and whale have
been found. From this to Siiez is 124 m. Some think that the passage
of the Israelites was through the Gulf of Herreopolis. The following
are the dimensions of the canal (see " Handbook of Egypt ") : '

Width at water-line, where banks arc low . . . 328 ft.
Ditto, in deep cuttings . . . 190 „

Ditto, at base 72 .,

Depth 2G „

Slope of bank at water-line 1 in 5 ; near base 1 in 2.

At Kantarah the road from Syria to Cairo passes over a flying bridge.
At every 6 m. there is a gavt^ or station and a siding with signal posts,
by which the traffic is regulated according to the block system by
hoisting black balls. Vessels must not move faster than 6 m. an hour,
but the Duke of Edinburgh's ship is said to have gone through at nearly
double that speed. Some of the stations are prettily adorned with
flowers and creepers, and at one there is a statue of Lt. Waghom, the
first man to organize the overland rte. in 1837. At IsmaiUa, named
froniithe actual ruler of Egypt, there is much vegetation, and some
good houses. One belongs to M. de Lessep, and another was b. for
the reception of the Empress Eugenie at the opening of the canal in
November, 1870. At Ismallia the rly. from Alexandria to Suez
approaches the canal, and is still closer at Serapeum, a little to the S.
of which it enters the Bitter Lakes, and here there is an expanse of
water 10 m, wide. All the way from IsmaiUa t\\fc \>aiTiks ?ct^ ifvw^«i^
nith vegetation, and the plain on either »\de \» 6lo\Xc(W\\\\\\\Av^^%»

Seot. I. THE RED SEA. 17

There is a little fishing iu the canal for those who like the amusement,
and at Suez there is a great variety of fish. The mail steamers fre-
quently lie out about 3 m. from Suez, calculating the distance by land,
and 5 by water. They can go into dock, but the captains prefer to be
where tney can get oft* at once as soon as tlie Brindisi mail and the
mssengers from Alexandria arrive. The office of the P. and 0.
Company is situated not far from the anchorage, and has a bust of
Lt. Waghom in front of it. The Alexandria and Suez rly. runs
down to the water's edge at Suez, but to reach the hotel it makes a
considerable bend to the E. and S. The hotel is under fresh manage-
ment, and one peculiarity of the present rSgime is that unless stopping
in the house you must pay for wnatever you intend to drink before it
is brought to you. Beer, for instance, is U, Qd, a bottle, and you
must hand over that sum before the waiter will bring the bottle.
Should you not have change, you must give a larger coin, and trust
to the waiter to bring you the difference. The 8er\'ant8 at Suez are
not civil, the Arab servants very much the contrary. Suez is a
decayed-looking ruinous town of about 15,000 soids. The rainfall is
only IJ in., and perhaps from its extreme aridity the place is verj^
healthy, the clouds being all stopped by the AlUlki Hills on the W.,
and the hills beyond the Well of Moses on the E.

The Bed Sea. — A fi'esh breeze from the N. generally prevails for |
of the voyage doAni the Red Sea, and is succeeded by an ec^ually
strong wind from the S. for the rest of the way. The Sinaitic range
is the first remarkable land viewed to the E., but Sinai itself, 37
geographical m. distant, is hid by intervening mountains of nearly
equal height. After this the island of ShMw^ is seen, which lies a
little S. of the jutting land intervening between the Gulfs of Suez
and Akabali. N.W. of this island 9^ m. is the SJiaub ummi issh coral
reef on which, in 1866, the steamer " K^anaatik " was lost. The captain,
named Jones, the doctor, Mr. Gardener the purser, the chief engineer
Mr. Boyne, the 4th officer, 2 stewards, and sbc passengers were
drowned. The next danger is " The Brothei-s," 2 circidar rocks rising
about 30 ft. from the sea. On one of these a light ought to be
placed, as they are not easily seen on a dark night. Towaids the S.
end of the Red Sea the islands are very numerous, and great vigilance
is required to avoid accidents. Among the most notable of these
islets is the group which the sailors call the Twelve Apostles. On
Perim, at the Straits of Bdb al Mandab, " The Gate of Tears," there is a
light which stands high, and also shelter for a detachment of SipAhls
(1 officer and 80 men) stationed here. On the opposite African
shore, 11 m. to the W., there is no light, but a large square house
built by the French, and now deserted. From Perim to Arabia the
strait is only a mile broad. The Red Sea has long been infamous
for heat, and many an invalid returning from India has died from its
effects. But rain does fall occasionally, and sometimes in torrents.
Thus on the 4th of December, 1875, about 500 m. S. of Swai^WiEit^'^^^
one of llie most violent thunder-storms ever witneaaed, »/c,cjOTK«MKife^
idth torrents of lain. The " Yenetia " lay-to for two Yvo\via a\sMi%
&i8 Btoim, and at its conclmion a ball of foe pasaed ^owcl ^^
eaadnctor into the sea with a terrific explosion.

18 ADEN. Sect L

Aden, — From B4b ul Mandab to Aden is about 90 in. Aden may
be truly called the Indian Gibmltai'. Any force sent to attack it
would have to bring its own supplies and water, for neither of these
requisites is obtainable on tlie inhospitable coast around. The
harbour is swept by heavy batteries of 12-ton guns, which only iron-
clad vessels could approach, and even if a landing were eflfected the
attacking force would find it difficult, or impossible, to make their
way to the camp. Aden was taken from the Arabs by the British on
the 16th of January, 1839 (see the " Aden Handbook," by Captain F.
M. Hunter, Assistant Resident). It was attacked by the Abddlis
and Fadthelis on the 11th of November in that year, but they were
repulsed with the loss of 200 killed and woimded. The united Arab
tribes made a second attack on the 22nd of May, 1840, but failed
after losing many men. On the 5th of July, 1840, a thiixl attack
took place, but the assailants, Abdalis and Fadthelis, were driven
back and lost 300 men. In January, 1846, Saiyid Ismail, after
preaching a jihdd, or religious war, in Makkah, attacked this place,
and was easily repulsed. A series of murders then commenced. On
the 29th of May, 1850, a seaman and a boy of H. E. I. C. steam-
frigate " Auckland " were killed while picking up shells on the N.
shore of the harbour. On the 28th of February, 1851, Captain
JVIilne, Qommissariat officer, and a party of officers went to Wahat, in
the Lahej territory. At midnight a fanatic mortally wounded
Captain Milne, who died next day, severely wounded Lieutenant
McPherson, of the 78th Highlanders, slightly wounded Mr. Saulez,
and got clear away. On the 27th March following, another ^natic
attacked and wounded severely Lieutenant Delisser of the 78th High-
landers, but was killed by that officer with his own weapon. On the
12th of July in the same year, the mate and one sailor of the ship
" Sons of Commerce/' wrecked near Ghubet Saildn, were murdered.
In 1858, 'Ali bin Muhsin, Sultdn of the Abdalis, gave so much
trouble that Brigadier Coghlan, Commandant at Aden, was compelled
to march against him, wnen the Arabs were routed with a loss of
from 30 to 40 men, and with no casualties on our side. In December
1865, the Sialtdn of the Fadthell tribe, which has a seaboard of 100
m., extending from the boundan" of the Abddlis, attempted to
blpck^de Aden on the land side ; out was utterly routed by Lieut. -
Qpl. WoplQombe, C.B., at Bir Said, 15 m. from the Barrier Crate. A
ii^xce under Brigadier-General Raines, C.B.^ then marched through
the Abgar districts, which are the lowlands of this tribe, and
destrpyed i^veral fortified villages. Subsequently, in January, 1866,
an expedition went from Aden by sea to Shugrah, the chief port of
th^ F^titl^^s, 65 m. from Aden, and destroyed the foils there. Since
1^07 1j|i9 txipe, which numbers 6,700 fighting men, have adhered to
tb^ur jeumgements. The Sultdn of the Abddlis, who inhabit a
district ^m. long and 8 broad to the N.N. W. of Aden, and number
about 8,000 souls, was present in Bombay during the Duke of
Edinburgh's visit in February 1870, and is friendly. His territory is
called Lahej, and the capital is Al-Hautah, 21 m. from the Barrier
Gate, It will he Been Irom what has \>eeii aavV ^i^^X Wv«i <Lountry
^ound Aden is not safe for Europeans, aud no ona 6\io>a\!i^\X'sax'^\. Vi

Sect I.

FARES AT ADEN.

f^o 'beyond the Banier Gate without penuiiwioii of the authorities.
The hniite of the Port of Aden are to the N. and W. from the Khor
Afakaar along the low sandy shore to Salid, an island off Little Aden ;
to the S. a line drawn from Salfd to Danajali, or Round Island ; tc»
the K a line &om the Round Island past Ras Tarsliain, Ras Morbat
and Hajaf to Khor Maksar. No boat can ply for hire in Aden
Harbour without a licence from the Con8er\'ator of the Port, and the
number of the licence must be painted on the bow and stem in
figures 6 in. long. Each of the crew must wear the number of his
boat on his left breast in figures 2^ in. long. When asking payment
the crew must exhibit the tables of fares and rules, and any one of
the crew asking prepayment of the iam is liable to fine or imprison-
ment. In case of dispute recourse must be had to the nearest
European police oflicer. Any hirer by s)>eciid agreement may
engage a fii'st class boat for himself only, or for himself and 5 friends
by paying 4 fares, and a second class boat for himself, or himself and
3 friends by paying 3 fares. Every boat must have a lantern at
night. A boat Inspector attends at the Gun Wliarf from 6 A.if. to
11 P.M. to call boats, suppress irregularities, and give information to
passengers. After sunset iKissengers can be landed only at the Guu
Whart

Boat Fare* at Aden,

For going to and returning from any vessel ))etwccn
the light vessel and most E. buoy off the Hajaf,
including 15 minutes detention, each passenger .

For detention, exclusive of the 15 minutes allowed,
per half hour ........

For going one way only, each passenger .

If hired by the day

Per hour

For going off to any ship anchored between outer
mark buoy and light ship, each passenger . .

Do. beyond the outer mark buoy, each passenger .

To Malla Bandar, one passenger

To pier of obstruction, do

Two or more passengers, each .....

1st C'lAHtt.

R. A. P.

2na C1as8.

R. A. p.

2 12

1 8

t Land Conveyances.

Every 'conveyance must have the number of its licence and the
number of persons it can carry painted on it. A table of fores must
be fixed on some conspicuous part of the convejrance, and the driver
must wear a badge with the number of his licence, and must not
demand prepayment of his fare.

The town includes all within and to the E. and "S. oi Wifel&s:\\\
FkwB 88 fiar as the & Pass.

TteMaala mclnd^ aU between the Main Pass and Ham lot \A\K\fc
Bm. Tke Point mcludes aU beyond and to the E. oi t\ielAU\^ Y«ea,

c 1

iO F.VBBS AT ADEK.

Jlatet of Ibyet nf Public Zand C'aueryaiWfi <

From the Town or lathmufi lo
Point

From the Towu to MHrahnft, tho

IsthmuB. Barrier Gstc at Mnnln

Same and bnult, inrinding 1 hour's

rrom the Joint to MaftlB. Biuricr

date, And Ixtlimug .
Saaie nud bade, including 1 hour'a

V.J the day, not eiceeding 1 2 hotiiit

Bevoiid the Barrier Gate, per mile

K ougnBcd within the Cratftt or

Townsliip of Mnalft, or Steamer

Toiiil. tor every honr or frufiliou

uf on hour . . . .

-■ P«i™>i« uiily.

1 i"L

acii|i.<r.

■jpL

«U^

m>^^

4rL

1 8

2 4

1 (1
1) il

U C

B. A.

2 {\
5 1}
1
1 S
1 11

if,

1) i

2
1

1 i)

1 M
I) 4

2 8

a 12

1 i

1 H

1 4

1 U
(i 11
U 5

1} 1(1

3 (J

i (1

1 8

2 -1

1 8

2 1
1) U

A cliarne of 8 ^iii'is per hour will be rnoile in addition if detained
l*yonil tlie hour allowed, provided that the total fare, iuuludiu;,'
detention cliniges, does not exceed the tare payable by the day.

Itatrt of Uirefor KvlU, D«Hlryi

Horn

, «ml a>meU.

Kull«. DoulieyB. CBiuiJa.

ea™«.

B. A.

R. A

From the Town to the I'oint .

(1 »

U «

1 U

Bame nnil bnok, including hull an hour's

11 10

1 R

The day, not exceeding 12 honia .

u c

n u

From Towu to IslluauB, Margbng, Or

() 8

Same aiid back, includiue half an hour's

From town to MalU Bandar , . .

(1 3

U 3

detotitioR

Fniui Isthmus tu tlie Point thf fare if the same as from Town to
J'ouit. JVif Piunt flifi'nifiesniiyinlmliik'dyart ot&teamet ?omt, A
ebarge ofS^daper how: for camels and boTae»,aT«!L\ ink lot itniiKs*

Sect. I. ADEN. 21

will be paid in addition il detained beyond the i hour alloweil, and the
same flares are applicable within Main Pass when the hire is per hour.
Inside the Light Ship the water shallows to 4 fathoms, and a large
steamer stirs up the mud with the keel. As soon as the vessel stops,
scores of little boats with one or two SomAli Ijoys in each paddle off
and surround the steamer, shouting " Overboartl, overboanl," all
toother, with a very strong accent on the first syllable. The noise
is like the barking of a pack of hounds. If a small coin is flung to
them they all spring into the water, and nothing is seen but scores of
heels disappeanng under the surface as they dive for the money. It
is astonishing that no accident happens, for sharks are numerous, and
other fish are almost as ravenous. In 1877 a rock cod between 6 and
6 ft. long seized a man who was diving and tore off the flesh of his .
thigh. Tlie man's brother went down with a knife and killed the
cod, which was brought ashore and photographed at Aden, as was the
wounded man. As soon as the captain has fixed the hour at which
he will leave the port, a notice is posted on the staircase leading to
the saloon, and then passengers genendly start for tlie shore to escaiw
the dust and heat during coaling. All the ports are closed, and the
heat and closeness of the cabins will be found quite insupportable.
It takes from 12 to 20 minutes to land at the Post Office Pier, which
is broad and sheltered. The band occasionally plays there. To the
1., after a walk or drive of a mile, one arrives at the Hotel de
TEurope, and the Hotel de FUnivers, the latter l)eing rather the
better of the two. There is also a large shop for wares of all kinds
kept by a Parsi, At a short distance N, of tlie hotels is a condenser
belonging to a private proprietor. There are 3 such condensei*s
belonging to Government, and several the property of private com-
panies, and by these and an aqueduct from Shekli Uthmiin, 7 ni.
beyond the Barrier Gate, Aden is supplied with water. Condensed
water costs from 3 to 3^ i-s. per KK) gallons. Besides these there are
tanks, which are worth "a visit. The distance to them from the pier
is about 5 m. Altogether there are about 50 tanks in Aden, whicn, if
entirely cleared out, would have an aggregate capacity of nearly
30 million imperial gallons. It is sui)posed that they were com-
menced about the second Persian invasion of Yaman in 600 a.d. Mr.
Salt, who saw them in 1809, says, " The most remarkable of these
reservoirs consists of a line of cisterns situated on the N.W. side of
the town, 3 of which are fully 80 ft wide and pro^wrtionably deep,
all excavated out of the solid rock, and lined with a thick coat of fine
stucco. A broad aqueduct may still be traced, which formerly con-
ducted the water to these cisterns from a deep ravine in the mountain
above ; higher up is another still entire, wliich at the time we visited
it was partly filled with water." Within the livst 17 years the restora-
tion oi these magnificent works has been undei-tiiken. (See the
Aden Handbook, uy Captain F. M, Hunter.) And 13 have been
completed, capable of holding 8 million gallons of water. The ransji
of lulls which was the crater of Aden is nearly ciTcuW. Ou \\\^ >N •
side the bil)^ are precipitous, and the rain that de»ceTv*\^ ixow. XXvcwv
m^es speedily to the aea. On the E. side the descent ia \)ToVewM ^
Mlehncl mnfbng between the summit and the aea, ^^\i\c\y occwv^Si^

22 ROUTE FROM MARSEILLES. Sect. I.

i of the entire superficies of Aden. The ravines which intersect
this plateau converge into one valley, and a very moderate fall of rain
suffices to send a stupendous toiTent down it. This water is partly
retained in the tanks, which were made to re/jeive it, and which are so
constructed, that the overflow of the upper tank falls into a lower,
and so in succession. As the annual rainfall at Aden did not exceed
G or 7 in., Malik al Mansiir, King of Yaman at the close of the 15th
century, built an aqueduct to bring the water of the Blr Hamid into
Aden. (See Playfair's " History of Yaman.") Since, however, the con-
struction of the Suez Canal, there has been a perceptible increase of rain
at Aden. Aden is hot, but healthy. Snakes and scorpions are rather
numerous. In 1876 a European artillery man died of the bite of a
ticpolonga (Duboia elegans). Cobras also and whip snakes are not rare. .

Ofalle. — This port is 2134 m. from Aden, and is reached in 9 days.
The stormy weather of the monsoon commences from a fortnight to
3 weeks earlier at the latter part of this voyage than in the higher
latitude of Bombay. Galle is one of the largest towns in Ceylon, and
has a pop. of 47,059 souls. The harbour is dangerous and small, and
the entrance narrow and difficult. It is also somewhat remote from
the productive districts, and the Colonial Government have decided
on making a breakwater at Colombo in preference to improving
GaUe. A rly. leads to Colomlx), and thence a small steamer runs
once a week to the Gulf of Manar, where a sailing boat can be procured
to visit the famous temple of Eameshwaram, which is not easily
approached from Madum or any other place in India.

2. Route by the Vessels of the Messageries Maritimes

FROM Marseilles.

The offices of these steamers are at 97, Cannon Street, E.C., and
52, Pall Mall, S.W. ; in Paris at 28, Rue Notre Djmie des Victoires ;
in Marseilles at 16, Rue Cannabi^re. The fleet of vessels for India
consists of 10 large steamers, 9 of which are above 3000 tons, and one
of 2788. There are also 7 smaller vessels of from 1735 to 1096 tons.
The fare Ist class to Galle, Colombo, Pondicherry, and Madras is
^660. From October to March passengei-s are carried direct to
Colombo, and at other times by steamer to Galle, and thence by
coach to Colombo. All Ist class passengers are entitled to one bertli
in a two-berth cabin, and to reserved accommodation by paying ^ a
fare more. Table wines or beer are supplied free to 1st or 2nd class
passengei's. For passage by steamer from London to Marseilles £5
additional is charged for each 1st or 2nd class passenger. The com-
pany's agent at 97, Cannon Street issues 1st class through tickets by
the South Eastern Rly. from London to Marseilles, available for 15
days, with the option of breaking the journey at Folkestone and
Boulogne, or Dover and Calais, Amiens, Paris, Dijon, and Lyons,
price £7 bs. by Dover and Calais, and £7 Is, M. by Folkestone and
Boulogne ; also from London to Naples viai Calais or Boulogne, Paris
And Florence, £12 28, 6d, Bv Newhaven, Dieppe, and Rouen by the
London, Brighton, and Soutli Coast Rly. from Iioiy^otv ^yvA?,^ ^scvvd
Vjctorm state., the tlwough tickets to MaxaeiWea ate £5\^».\^. K

Sect. I. ROUTE BY BRINDISI. 23

reduction of 20 per cent, on the return jxissage jr made to passengers
from ports E. of Aden if they return bock within 6 monthB, and
10 per cent, if within 12 months. Stewards* fees are include<l in the.
price of the ticket Servants soliciting fees will be dismissed. The
floctor attends free of charge. Half the passage money, when the
amount exceeds £20, is to be paid on securing a passage, and the
balance a fortnight before embarkation. Ptissengers not embarking
forfeit the deposit of J fare. But in case of imavoidable detention, a
transfer to a subsequent steamer can be eifectetl, on sufficient notice
being given. Cheques remitted by post are to Ije drawn in favour of
M. M. Company's London agent, or order, and crossefl London Joint
Stock Bank (the Company's bankers). Cheques on England cannot
be accepted at foreign ports. In case of detention, passengers will
have to defray their notel expenses, and when place<l in quarantine,
1st class passengers will be charged 12*., 2nd class passengers 9«. Sd.,
3rd class passengers 5s. a day for their maintenance. Baggage regu-
lations are the same as those made by the P. and O. Company, fiut
1st and 2nd class passengers may take from Marseilles 150 kilogrammes
of personal luggage free of freight, and a passenger who jwys for
reserved accomm^ation is allowed 250 kilogrammes free. All
bt^age must be shipped not later than noon on the day previous to
sailing, except one portmanteau not exceeding 3 ft. long, 1^ ft. wiile,
and 1^ ft. deep. The M. M. steamers leave Marseilles every alternate
Sunday at 10 A.M. They reach Port Said in 6 days, inclusive of a
stop at Naples of 2 hours. From Port Said to Suez occupies 24 hours,
from Suez to Aden 4^ to 5 days, from Aden to Point de Galle 8 to 10
days. The stay at Isaples is too short to admit of sight-seeing — ^the
other halting-places have been already described. Tickets bv the
steamers of the Messageries from Marseilles to Alexandria, and thence
by the P. and 0. steamers from Suez to Bombay, can be obtained at
the P. and O. offices, price, 1st class £62, 2iid class ;£31, exclusive of
transit through Egypt. The M. steamers leave ^Marseilles every
Thursday at noon« i^either company is responsible for failure of
steamers to connect.

3. Route Overland from London to Brindisi, and by the
P. AND O. Steamers to Alexandria, Aden, Galle and
Madras.

Through tickets from London to Brindisi are issued at the P. and 0.
offices, 122, Leadenhall Street, and 25, Cockspur Street, at Ist class
jgll 17«. Sd., and 2nd class £8 12«. 6d. ; but there is no economy in
taking them, as they cost just the same as tickets from station to
station — e.g., from London to Dover or Folkestone, and thence to
Calais or Boulogne, thence to Paris, thence to Dijon, Macon, Aix les
Bains, Turin, Bologna and Brindisi. There is also a danger of losing
a through ticket, or a part of it, when a fresh payment must be
made. With through tickets the journey may be broken at Dover,
Calais, Folkestone, Boulogne, Amiens, Paris, and at auy iVvTeft. Y^^tv-
cipal stations between Paris and Bologna, and at An.coiva aiA "^o^JB^
between Bologna and Brindisi. 60 lbs. of bagc^e fee^ at^ ^cfW^
between London and Paris, vid 2»J'ewhaYen and "Dk^v^,^^ ^yi%.'^«'

24 ROUTE BY BRINDISI. Sect. I.

Dover and Folkestone, and 66 lbs. between Paris and Modane. But
on the Italian rlys. no free luggage is allowed ; the charge between
Modane and Bologna being Ifr. 7^c., and from Bologna to Brindisi
2frs. 61c. for eveiy 22 lbs. Trains leave Charing Cross by South
Eastern Rly., for Dover and Calais, Ist and 2nd class at 7*40 a.m. ;
1st class only at 8*25 p.m. ; for Folkestone and Boulogne according
to the tides. By London, Chatham and Dover Rly. trains leave
Victoria, 1st and 2nd class, at 7*40 a.m., and 1st class only at
8 •20 P.M. ; by Brighton Rly. for Newhaven, Dieppe, Rouen and
Paris, at vanring hours day and night, according to tide. Passengers
cannot go through by the Mail train leaving London on Friday
evening, and must start, therefore, not later than 7*40 a.m. on
Thursday. Leaving Charing Cross Station at 7*40 a.m. by the
London and South Eastern, the traveller reaches the Admiralty Pier
at Dover at 9*30 a.m., or leaving Charing Cross at 8*25 p.m. he
reaches the Admiralty Pier, Dover, at 10*20 p.m.

Should he be inclmed to stop the night at Dover, he will find
the Castle Hotel very comfortable. At the Lord Warden there is,
or was, a most inconvenient rule that all the passengers' luggage must
start together* It is, therefore, of no use being early, imless the
passenger goes out himself and gets a porter to carry Ids things to the
steamer. Pockets are often picked on board the steamers. It will
be well, therefore, to be vigilant during the passage, and in the dis-
agreeable hustling that takes place on leaving the vessel. It would
be much more convenient to the passengers if the tickets were paid
for on coming on board, and not demanded on leaving the vessel,
when every one's hands are occupied with carrying bimcQes and bags.
In order to avoid trouble on landing luggage should be booked through
to Paris, where, of course, it will be examined by the Ciistom-house
officers.

Paris is reached by this Rte. at 6*5 p.m. From the hotels near the
Rue de Rivoli it takes^ an hour if the streets are clear, | of an hour if
crowded, to reach the Gare de Lyons, whence the train for Turin and
Brindisi starts. The train that leaves Paris at 8*40 p.m. arrives at
Macon at 5*38 A.M., Culoz at 8*45 A.M., and at Modane at 1*23 p.m.
At Modane luggage is examined by the Custom House officers, and
passengers change carriages. The train leaves Modane at 2*50 p.m.
There is time allowed, about 25 minutes, for luncheon, and the French,
who here seem regardless of the comfort of passengers, keep them
penned in until tne trains are formed, which leads to annoyances
that would not be tolerated in England for a moment. It takes 22
minutes to pass through the Mont Cenis Tunnel, which is 16 m. long,
but there are also a number of shorter tunnels. Turin is reached at
6*40 P.M. The 9*40 a.m. train from Turin reaches Bologna at 5 p.m.
The Italian railwav officials are particularly polite to passengers. The
carriages are excellent, and there is no drawback, except insufficient
room for luggage carried in the hands. Nothing can be jiut imder
the seats, and the shelves at the top of the compartments are too
narrow. Crossed ribands to hold hats, which are found in English
carriages, would be a great convenience in t\ie lon^ ^owmey from
-™rw to Brindisi, but neither French nor Italian c8a:m^e^\i^N^ ^^m.

S^ct. L BRINDISL 25

At Bologna the Hotel Brun is excellent, but it is a very long ilrive
from the Rly. station. The drive from Bimiiii along the sea is
charming, but the difficulty is to get refreshments.

Brindlfd is reached at 10*37 p.m., and the l)est and most con-
venient hotel there is the Grand Hotel des Indes Orien tales, h. l)y the
South Italian Rly., and facing the Quay where the P. and O. steamew
lie to land the passengers. The hotel is managed by Giuseppe*.
Bruschetti, who was formerly proprietor of the Gnmd Hotel Royal
at Milan. There are 100 beds, good reception rooms, and niartde
baths with every comfort. Excellent fish is almost always to be liml,
and game frequently. Table d'hote liidthout wine costs 5 frs. The
Hotel de FEurope is also good, but not so conveniently sitimtinl,
being about 300 yds. from the Quay. A day may be juissed very
pleasantly at Brindisi in seeing sights. The to\\Ti is stiid to have its
name from a word signifying " stag's head." This has reference to
the shape of the harbour, which resembled two horns Wfore the
N. Branch was closed, as it now is, by a barrier of stone. Between
these horns is an island on which stands the Qimrontine House and
a small fort, which can be visited by boat in i an hour at the cost of
^ a franc There are 2 lighthouses, one to the N. of the entrance,
30 metres high, and one to the S., smaller. A little to the S. of the
hotel is Virgil's Pillar, as it is called, though it clearly has nothing
to do with VirgiL That poet died at Brindisi on the 22nd of
September, 19 B.C., on his return from Samos. Brindisi was des-
troyed by Louis of Hungaiy in 1348, and by an earthquake in 1458.
The pillar is of white marble, of the Corinthian order, and about
50 ft. high. On the base is an inscrii^tion which ascribes the
erection of the pillar to Spathalupus. This Spathalupus was a
Byzantine governor, who built the to^vn in the 10th century, after
it had been destroyed by the Saracens. A few yards N. of this
column is the base of a similar one. It is said that the Via Appia
ended here. Others maintain that that road ended outside the
town, and that these pillars were brought from the spot. N. of
these pillars about i of a mile is the Cathedral, whei-e the Emi)eTOr
Frederick II. married Yolantha in 1225 a.d. It is a perfectly plain
building of white stone. On the rt. of the entrance is a school,
once a convent, on the fagaile of which ai*e 8 ancient stone figures,
which were dug up at a Temple of the Sun not far off. One is a
figure crowned with laurels. All the figures are much mutilated.
In front of the Cathedral, on the opposite side of the road, is the
English Consul's office. After this the Cluesa de los Angelos might
})e visited, as it is not fiir off. There are some good fi-escoes in the
ceiling of this church, of the 16th century. Brindisi has two gates,
the Porta di Mesagne to the W., where are the arms of Spain and
some inscriptions, and the Porta di Lecce to the S., so called from
Lecce, a town 17^ m. to the S. In the centre of Brindisi are some
frescoes put up by the Jesuits in 1830. Outside the town to the
N.E. is the Castello, an old castle, now a prison, mtli lowmV \.Q>\?^T?i
and a fosse 80 feet wide and 40 deep. It was b, by \\\& "EiTo^i^itot
Fredenck II., and strengthened hy Chailes V. In. \\\e ceviX,!^ \a» «b
qaadrangle several hundred ft. square, and the rooms in ^v\i\K\l^^

26 ALEXANDRIA. Sect. L

prisoners are confined look upon it. About 800 men are imprifloned
nere, but no women nor boys. They have oidy one meal a day,
and drink rain water. At night theii* chains are fastened to a strong
ring, a fixture. There is one vast room where the prisoners are
employed at all sorts of work, such as making shoes and slippers,
baskets, and carving of various kinds. Eighty-six steps lead to the
roof, whence there is a good view of Brindisi and the harbour.
There is an English Consul at Brindisi, and an agent of the P. and O.
Company, whose office is on the Quay, near to the Hotel des Indes
Orientales. The Post Office and Telegraph Office are a short distance
S. of the hoteL Brindisi, the ancient Brundusium, was first colonised
from Tarentum, and then by Rome in 245 B.C. In 37 b.c. Horace
travelled along the Via Appia with Maecenas, Virgil, Plotius, and
Varius, when the envoys of Augustus and Antony met to adjust
certain differences at Brundusiiun. The journey is described by
Horace in liis 1st Book of the Sermonum, 5th Satire, the last line
of which is " Brundusium longa; finis chartaeque via?que." M.
Pacuvius, one of the greatest of the Latin tragedians, was born at
Brundusium about 220 B.C., and his kinsman Ennius was lx)m at
Rudia in the neighbouring hills. In B.C. 49 Pompey was besieged in
Brundusium by Csesar, who speaks of the sie^^e in the 1st Book of his
Civil War. Brindisi has now about 15,000 inhabitants. The Austrian
Lloyds steamers touch at Brindisi en route to Corfu and Syra, and
the Geneva and Ancona steamers every Monday on their way to
Taranto. As the port is completely sheltered it is qiiite easy to
embark at Brindisi at all seasons and in all weathers. The voyage
to Alexandria is made in 82 hours.

Alexandria. — This poi-t cannot be entered at night, and vessels
aiTiving after sunset lie oiff till daylight. The land is low, and is not
seen fiutlier than about 12 m., but Fompey^s Pillar, the light-house,
the Pasha's palace, and the masts of snips come to sight earliei'.
There are 2 haibours at Alexandria, an eastern called the E. Harbour,
or New Port, and a western called Euriostus Harbour, or Old Port.
The E. or New Port has long been disused, except by small vessels,
being exposed to the winds from the N., and dangerous from its
numerous rocks and shoals. This, however, was the harbour which
for 11 centuries was assigned by the Mulyammadans to tlie vessels of
Christian states, until the English, when they occupied Alexandria,
extorted the privilege for all Europeans of riding on horseback, and
using the western and only safe anchorage. In this harbour is a
floating dock that can support a weight of 10,(K)0 tons. A break-
water a mile long now projects from the S. side of the harbour, and
between its crab-like arms is the entrance for steamers. Having
entered, the Khedive's Palace Harim, a vast whit^e building, is seen
from the dock to the left, and more en face the Arsenal, and the
Custom House. A walk of 10 or 12 minutes brings one to the Frank,
or European quarter, and here in the Great Square, or Place
Mubammad ^ All, so called from a statue of that worthy, is the Hotel
cVEuTope, and dose by, in the Place de rEgli8e,is H6telAbbat, which
J.9 the cheaper of the two. At the right-hand comet oi l\v^ ^io^ate in
lAe street leading out of it is the office oi the P. aw^O. w!^^\i\,^«sA

Sect. L

ALEXANDRIA TO SUEZ.

also a bank, and close by are good sbops, such as that of D. Robertson,
bookseller, and a general store, the Maison K Ordier, both in the
Place M. *A11. For the sights of Alexandria see Murray's " Hand-
book of Egypt." A vehicle costs 28. an hour in the day, and 3«. in the
night. As the train for Suez starts at 6 p.m., there is often time to
drive to the V. Consul's Office, in the Rue de I'Obelisque, and then to
the Mahmiidiah Canal ; returning from which one may visit Pompey's
Pillar, set up by the Eparch Publius in honour of Diocletian, in red
granite, 98 ft. 9 in. high, and 29 ft. 8 in. circumference.

Railway pbom Alexandria to Suez.— Time Table.*

Distance.

9
10
11
12
13
14
lo
1«
17
18
19

No.

of Sta-

Miles.

tions.

Chains.

7
60

• • •

.30
70

12
12
10

6
13
13

10
12
11
11

40
69
70
73
22
10
27
21
42

224

Stations.

Kafr Dawar
Abii Hummcis
Damanhi^r .
Teh el Bar^id
Kafr Laydt .
Santah
Birkat al Sdb
Benha

Minet al Ganeh .
Zagazig

Abii Hamcd . .
Teh al Kabir .
Maksama .
Nefishe . . .
Serapeum .
Faid . . .
Geneffe

Shalliif . . .
Suez .

Total . .

Running

Stoppages

Time in

Minutes.

h. m.

h. m. I

1 I

1 i

10 i

1 !

15 '

1
1

,30

8 20

1 41

RmARKA.

Alexandria

Benha,

30 miles

per hour.

Bcnha

Suez,

25 miles

per hour.

Total time, including stoppages, lOh. Im.

'^ This Time Table is in force by order of the Director-General of the Eg>'ptian
Government, for the special trains conveying; P. nnd O. passengers, Ist and 2nd Class,
between Alexandria and Suez. These special trains, jik a rule, travel by night.

Signed, T. C. Chapman, Agent.

The seats in the carriages on this line are too narrow. There ought
to be in winter tins of hot water for the feet. Passengers will do
well to so place their parcels that they cannot be snatched out c.f the
window by Arabs, who have a taste for appropriatin*^ W\«u\ m >i)Kv^
w^.

iTie other places, Aden and GaJle, have been aVve^vAiy ivo^ivce^, wv^
j'e onljr remains to my a few vronh as to

28 ROUTE BY VENICE. Sect I.

4. Route Overland to Venice or Ancona, and by P. and 0.
Steamers to Brindisi and Alexandria, and by Rail to
Suez and thence by. P. and 0. Steamer to Aden, Galle,
AND Madras.

The rte. by Venice is less fatiguing and far more interesting than
that by Ancona or Brindisi, including as it does Milan, the Lago di
Garda, Verona, Padua, and Venice, places which can be revisited again
and again without ennui. Those who are not pressed for time, and
have not seen these interesting localities, should certainly take the
rte. by Venice. Descriptions of places will be found in Mr. Murray's
*' Handbook of Italy." Here all that need be said is that at Turin
the Grand Hotel de Turin, kept by Kraft, is the most convenient,
being close to the rly. One cannot, however, have a bath at that
hotel except in one's own room. The HOtel de I'Eui-ope is the best,
rather dear, and some way from the ntk\t. The rte. by Milan to
Venice is 55 kils. shorter than that by Bologna to Venice. The
trains from Milan to Venice start at convenient hours. The 9*40 a.m.
train anives at 4-14 p.m., and the 3*50 p.m. train arrives at 10*15 p.m.
Tliere is no train in correspondence with the train fi*om Paris to
Turin that connects, which is a mistake admitted by the officials, but
not remedied. The chief railway authority is M. le Commandeiir
Amelhan, Directeur General des Chemins de Fer de la Haute Italie
hors de la St. Nuova, Milan. The best hotel at Milan is the Hotel
Cavour. The cathedral is the great sight. After Rome, Florence and
Naples, the city most worth seeing in Ittdy is Verona. The best hotel
is La Torre di Londra. It must be particularly remembered that here,
and in other towns, a card, if asked for, is given to visitors with the
names of the principal sights printed in the order for seeing them. As
a specimen, the following card of the sights at Verona may be taken —

Piazza Signori. — Tombs of the Scaligcrs. — Santa Anastasia, Ch. —
Cattedralc. — San Giorgio. — Giardino Giusti. — Pontc Navi. — Musco. —
Arena Roman Amphitheatre. — San Zanonc, Ch. — San Bernardino, Ch. —
Ponte Castel Vecchio. — Palazzo Canossa. — Poi-toni Borsari.— Piazza Erbc.

At Padua, the best hotel is La Stella d'Oro, but it is 1 J m. from the
Stat. At Venice, the Hdtel de TEurope will be found the most con-
venient. After the 15th of April, and till the 15th of October,
j^leasant weather may be looked for in the Adriatic, and the voyage
Irom Venice to Alexandria is delightful. In the other months strong
breezes are frequent, and, perhaps, a gale may be encountered between
Brindisi and Alexandria.

§ d, HINTS regarding DRESS, DIET, HEALTH AND COMFORT.

The following remarks on Tropical Hygiene ai*e condensed from
Dr. Martin's book, " The Influence of Tropical Climates ": —

The Prevention, of Disease, — The proper selection of localities for
residence ; the avoidance of exposure to heat by day, and to dews and
chills at night ; care in diet, clothing, and exercise arc isit thotc c§s»q\\\\».1
for the preservation of health in India, as el8ew\icTc, l\iwiL tq.^\q.«3l

Sect I. HINTS KEGABDIXG DIIE8S, DIET, ETC. 29

treatment. Self -quackery with calomel and other mercurial prqiaratious
is sure to destroy the most robust constitution, and many lives nave been
lost by the use of saline purgatives during seasons of cholera. The real
way to escape disease is to observe strict tempera nee ^ and to moderate
heat by all ]K)ssible means, habituating the Ixxly from the beginning to
the impressions of cold, for from heat arises the predispoHition to receive
and develop the seeds of disease, and after lieat has thus morbifically
predisposed the body, the sudden influence of cold has the most baneful
effect upon the frame.

JOress, — ^\^en Europeans enter the tropics they must bid adieu to the
luxury of linen — ^if what is uncomfortable, and, indeed, misafc in those
climates, can be styled a luxury. The natives, from the lowest to the
highest, wear nothing but cotton. The cotton dress, from its slowness in
conducting heat, is admirably adapted for the tropics. It must be
recollected that the temperature of the atmosphere, ttuh dio, in the hot
seasons exceeds that of the blood by many degrees, and even in the
shade it too often equals, or rises above the heat of the body's surface^
which is always, during health, some degrees below 97**. Cotton, then,
is cooler than linen, as a slower conductor of the excess of external heat
to our bodies. Moi-eover, when the atmospheric temperature suddenly
sinks far below that of the body, cotton causes the heat to be abstracted
more slowly, and thus presei-ves to the wearer a greater equilibrium of
wai'mth. Further, cotton absorbs perspiration with greater facility than
linen, and will maintain on equable waimth luider a breeze where a
dangerous shiver would be induced by wearing linen.

Woollen and cotton dresses arc actually cooler in high temi)cratiut;H
than linen, as may be readily proved by placing two beds in the same
room when the thermometer stands at iK)°, and covering one with a pair
of blankets, the other with a pair of linen sheets. On removing both
coverings in the evening, the bed on which the blankets were placed
will be found cool, the other warm ; this arises from the woollen covering
being a non-conductor, while the linen transmits the heat.

In particular places, where the mercury takes a wide range in a very
short time, flannel is a safer coveiing than cotton, but, in general, it is a
less desirable covering. It is, in the firat place, too Iwacy ; secondly,
where the temperature ranges steadily a little below that of the skin,
the flannel is too slow a conductor of heat from the body ; thirdly, the
spiculse of the flannel prove too imtating, and increase the action of the
perspiratory vessels, while the great object is to moderate the process.
A too frequent change of body linen is injurious, especially to newly
arrived Europeans, as it stimulates the cuticular discharge too much.
To change morning and evening is enough, even in the hot and rainy
seasons ; and to change oftener is simply injurious.

Exposure, — No European should voluntarily expose himself at any
season to the direct rays of the sun. If forced to be out of doors, the
chliMd or large umbrella should never be neglected, if he wish to avoid
coiip de soleil or other dangerous consequences. The ample turbans of
the natives are a great defence agamst the sun ; and where an umbrella
cannot be conveniently used, muslin twisted many times round an
English jockey cap, with a white covering stuffed with cotton, such as
worn by Sir C. Napier in a well-known print, is the best protection.
Similarly, the thick kamarbands or waist-cloths of the natWe,* \>tQ>\ftRX»
the important viscera of the abdomen from the injurious eftec\a ol ^icAs^.

Fpod.— There are no points of hygiene to which the attenlvoii ol axve^
»?mer ahould be more particularly directed thaa to modcratloKi «»^^

30 HINTS REGARDING Scct L

»ufiplwity iu his diet. A congestive, and sometimes inflammatory
diathesis, with a tendency to general or local plethora, characterises the
European and his diseases, for some yeara at least, after his arrival
between the tropics ; and hence nature endeavours to guard against the
evil by diminishing the relish for food. The new comer, therefore,
should avoid the dangerous stimulants of wine and liquors, as well as
condiments and spices, which should be reserved for that general relaxa*
tion and debility which are sure to supervene during a protracted
residence in tropical climates. A vegetable diet is, generajly speaking,
better adapted for a tropical climate than animal food, especially in the
case of the unseasoned European ; not that it is quicker or easier of
digestion, for it is slower, but it excites less commotion in the* system
during the digestive process, and is not apt to induce plethora afterwards.
The febrile stiicture, which obtains on the surface of our bodies, and in
the secerning vessels of the liver, during the ffoitric digestion of the food,
as evinced by diminution of the cutaneous and hepatic secretions, is pro-
portioned to the duration and difficulty of that process in the stomach,
and to the quantity of ingesta ; and as a corresponding increase of the two
secretions succeeds, when the chime passes into the intestines, the neces-
sity of moderating them by abstemiousness is easily perceived, since they
are already in excess from the heat of the climate alone, and this excess
is one of the first links in the chain of causes and effects that ultimately
leads to various derangements of important oi'gans, as exemplified in the
fevers and dysenteries, in the hepatitis and cholera of tropical regions.
The newly-anived European should content himself with a plain hreah'
fast of bread and butter, with tea or coffee, and avoid indulging in meat,
fish, or eggs, or buttered toast. The butter alone often disagrees, and
occasions rancidity, with nausea, while it increases the secretion of bile,
already in excess. The dirty habits of the native cooks, who may be
often seen buttering the toast with the greasy wing of a fowl or an old
dirty piece of rag, will perhaps be of more avail than any medical
caution in inducing Europeans to give up this injurious article of food.

He who wishes for health in the East must beware of late and heavy
dinners, particularly on his first arrival, and must be satisfied -vsdth a
light and early repast as the principal meal, when tea or coffee at six or
seven o'clock will be found a grateful refreshment. After this his rest
will be as natural and refreshing as can be expected in such a climate,
and he will rise next morning infinitely more refreshed than if he had
partaken of a heavy repast at a late hour.

Druits. — A limited indulgence in fruits, during the first year, is
prudent ; and there is little reason to believe that when ripe and eaten
in the forenoon fruit has the effect of irritating the bowels. Particular
kinds of fruit have peculiar effects on certain constitutions ; thus Ttmn-
goes have sometimes a stimulating and heating effect, which often brings
out pustules or even boils, on the unseasoned European. The piiw apple,
though very delicious, is not a safe fruit at any time. The orange is
always grateful and wholesome, as is the sJiaddoek, owing to its cooling
subacid qualities. The banana is wholesome and nutritious, whether
undressed or cooked.

Brink, — The great physiological rule for preserving health in hot

climates is to keep the body cool. Common sense points out the propriety

of avoiding heating drinks, for the same reason that leads us instinctively

to guarA against a high external temperature. During the first two

j-ears, at least, of Tesidence, the nearer tbe apptoafih mvAe to «^ i^rfectly

^ueous regimen in driok, the better the ouoiQe ol Si'^ovS^^ ^Okix<(«9>«

3ect* L DRESS, DIET, ETC. 31

NothiBg is more salutary during the hot winds than iced beverages ;
they revive the spirits, strengthen the body, and assist the digestion.
Ice is invaluable, as well in sickness as in health. Moderately acid drinks,
such as sharhat, are wholesome. Nature seems to point out the vegetable
acids in hot climates, as grateful in allaying thirst and diffusing a
coolness from the stomach ^ over the body. "Hie prophylactic influence
of spirits and tobacco against night exposure, malaria and contagion,
appears to be a delusive doctrine.

ExercUe. — The perspiration, biliary, and other secretions, being already
in excess in equatorial regions, a perseverance in the customary European
exercises would prove highly injurious, by promoting and aggravating the
ill effects of an unnatural climate. Such excess very soon leads to de-
bility and to diminUhing action in the functions alluded to, and to a
corresponding inequilibrium of the blood. It is only at particular
periods of the day or year that such active or passive exercise as the
climate admits should be taken. When the sun is near the meridian all
nature is torpid, and seems to suggest inactivity to man. The natives,
though fitted by nature to bear the climate, take more care to moderate
the effects of heat than Europeans, especially in light clothing, abste-
mions food, and tranquil habits. Gestation of every kind, whether in
pdlkis or spring carriages, is a species of passive exercise exceedingly
well adapted to a tropical climate. The languid state of the circulation
of the blood in old Indians is pointedly shewn in the disposition to
raise the lower extremities on a line with the body when at rest ; and
this object is completely attained in the pdlki, which, indeed, renders it
a peculiarly agreeable vehicle. On the same principle may be explained
the pleasurable feeliug and utility of shampooing^ where the gentle pres-
sure and friction of the soft Asiatic hand over the surface of the body,
but particularly over the limbs, invigorate the circulation after fatigue,
as well as after long inaction, and excite the inert cuticular secretion.
The kisa or luiir-glove of India is an admirable means of giving addi-
tional effect to {jfiampooing, a practice which to the indolent wealthy
natives is a real and effective substitute for exercise. The twing is much
used by the natives, and in the hot and rainy seasons might be practised
in the early mornings and evenings within doors when the weather did
not admit of gestation in the open air. In chronic disorders of the
viscera, it could hardly fail to be grateful and salutary by its tendency
to determine to the surface and relax the sub-cutaneous vessels, which
are generally torpid in these diseases.

JBathing, — The cold hath is death, not during intemperance, but in the
collapse which follows a debauch, or indeed any other great fatigue of
body or mind. It is also dangerous under every form of visceral disease ;
but the healthy and temperate may safely partake of it. The truth is the
cold bath is a prize due to, and gained by, the temperate ; to all else it is
eminently unsafe. The healthy and temperate should regularly and daily
persevere in the use of the cold bath from the moment they enter within
the tropics ; and when, from long residence there, the functions begin to
be irregular, or defective, they may prudently change by degrees to the
tepid bath, which then becomes a most valuable part of tropical hygiene.
The cold bath may be used at any hour of the day, though the morning
and evening are generally selected by Europeans in the East, imme-
diately after leaving their couch and before dinner. At boWi Wi^^ Xjmi^
the bath is very refreshing, and powerfully obviates that tiaixi ol Xkenowa
symptoms so generally felt hy Europeans in hot climateB. 'Bd.ox^ ^mscbrx
U seems to exert its salutary influence on the sxuciace ot liXi^ \icA^>«aa.>

32 HINTS REGAUDING Scct. I.

by STrnpathj) on the stomach, removing the sensation of thirst, which
might otherwise induce too free potations at dinner. It is always im-
prudent to bathe while the process of digestion in the stomach is going
on, as it disturbs that important operation. To persons of ordinary
health, but who are not robust, the cold bath vnll be found tonic and
agreeable in India, from the beginning of March to the end of Sep-
tember. The temperature ranges high in these months, and the deter-
mination to the surface is such as to ensure a sufficient reaction. It is a
common error to think that it is requisite to be cool before using the cold
bath, whereas the reverse is the case. To the delicate, indeed, immersion in
a warm bath for a few minutes is an excellent preliminary, followed at once
by the affusion of some three or four vessels of cold water. A glow over
the whole surface of the body will immediately follow. This is a safe
and excellent mode of bathing to all who shrink from the use of cold
water, or feel doubtful of salutary reaction after it. The following is the
scale of temperature of the several baths in ordinary use : — Cold bath,
from 60** to 75° ; tepid, 85° to 92° ; warm, 92° to 98° ; hot, 98° to 112°.

Sleep. — ^Whatiever we detract from the requisite period of our natural
sleep will be surely deducted, in the end, from the natural range of our
existence. Notwithstanding the silence of authors on the subject, the
disturbed repose experienced in trepical climates has a great and preju-
dicial effect on the European constitution. The great object of the
European is to sleep cool, and obtain complete protection from mos-
quitoes. Both these objects may be secured by the large mosquito frame
and curtain, with the pankhd suspended from the ridge, as generally
used throughout Bengal. Early hours are here indispensable. The order
of nature is never inverted with impimity, even in the most temperate
climates : beneath the torrid zone it is certain destruction. The hour of
retirement should never be protracted beyond ten o'clock ; and at day-
light we should start from our couch to enjoy the cool and salubrious
breath of mom. In Bengal Proper, in the plains of Upper India, and on
the Coromandel ceast, except during the hot land winds, or at the change
of the monsoons, Eui'opeans may generally sleep during the hot and dry
season in the open verandah, not only with safety but with advantage.
Scruple doses of carbonate of soda in aromatic water at bedtime, or night
and morning, will remove nightmare and promote digestion.

Moral Conduct. — In the tropics, licentious indulgence is far more dan-
gerous and destructive than in Europe.

Cholera, — The attacks of this terrible disease may in general be traced
to some imprudence, as eating unripe fruit, oysters, or other indigestible
food; intemperance, drinking cold liquid, or anything that suddenly
ohills the bcxiy when overheated ; exposure to cold night air. Among
the natives the most common causes are drinking unwholesome water,
sleeping on the damp ground, or in the open air during unhealthy
seasons. The safest remedies appear to be the application of mustard
plasters, particularly to the abdomen, or the warm bath, draughts of warm
water, after which 80 drops of laudanum, 6 drops of oil of peppermint, or 20
drops of essence of peppermint, and 20 grains of calomel, should be taken.
To allay the bummg thirst, warm kdnji or rice water, with plenty of
table sit, may be given, or pieces of ice may be allowed gradually to
melt in the mouth. After the first attack is over, if there be much irri-
tability remaining, the dose of 20 grains of calomel must be repeated.
A^erwards the bowels must be kept open with calomel and jalap. For
^ cliiJd of from H to 2 years old 12 grains ot calomel, % CiiQi]^% at Ibm-
aannm, 2 drops of oil of peppermint, may Iw gWea ou l\ift \xwifc«EA. ol

Seot I. DBESSj DIET, ETC 33

attack. The handfl and feet mnfit be put into water as hot as the child can
bear until the disease is subdued. After a lapse of eight hours from
complete relief, a dose of castor oil must be administered. Great atten-
tion must be paid to the size of the drops of laudanum. They must
be dropped from a 2-oz. phial. To natives who are not of a plethoric
habit, the following pills may be given : — ^Astringent pills on the first
attack : calomel, 5 grains ; asafoetida, 2 grains ; black pepper, 2 grains ;
opium, 2 grains ; camphor, 3 grains ; to be mixed and divided into three
pills, which, if rejected, must be re-administered. Three hours after
these pills, if the symptoms have stopped, mix the following into three
pills : — Calomel, 5 grains ; extract of colocynth, 12 grains ; extract of
tartar emetic, ^ grain. The cholera pills are an excellent purgative in
general for bowel complaints.

Medicine Cliest, — The following medicines and articles may be taken on
a journey into places where medical aid is not attainable : — Cholera pills,
csdomel, eau de luce, ipecacuanha, laudanum, magnesia, oil of pepper-
mint, quinine, rhubarb, adhesive plaster, blistering plaster, goldbeater's
skin, lint, sponge, scales and weights, cautery, lancet, teasix)on, scissors.

Snake Bites, — The following appears to be the best treatment for
snake-bites. A ligature should be instantaneously fixed round the limb
affected, some distance from the wound to prevent absorption. If the wound
be in a fleshy part, the ragged edges must be cut out, making the incision
elliptical. The wound must then be sucked with a cupping glass,
or with the mouth. If stupor, fainting, or sinking of the pulse supervene,
administer brandy one oz., laudanum one drachm, in warm water, with
sugar and peppermint water. The patient must be kept walking about,
or the tlm)at, chest and extremities may be rubbed with laudanum,
ammonia, and ether. Dram doses of ammonia, or eau de luce^ mixed
with water, and repeated every ten or twenty minutes, according to the
urgency of the symptoms, have also been tried with success. But scarifi-
cation or excision and cauterisation are the only sure means of escaping
death in the case of being bitten by the most poisonous snakes, as the
cobra and black kerite.

The following suggestions,* which were approved by Sir Colin
Campbell, for the use of officers who have had no Indian experience,
will be found instructive for all travellers in India : —

Marching,

When practicable, the best time for marching is undoubtedly in the
early morning. The march should be finished by two hours after sunrise.
The pernicious custom of serving out a dram on the line of march sows
the seeds of disease, and should be avoided ; but, as it is injurious to
undergo fatigue after a night's rest upon an empty stomach, food of some
kind should be given to the soldiers either before starting or at the first
halt — tea, coffee, chocolate, or milk, with bread, biscuits, or chapdtis.

In warm weather every precaution should be adopted to enable the
European to stand fatigue, and to prevent heating of the blood. The
neck should be bare, to allow of the free return of blood from the
head. A flannel roller round the belly and loins is all the woollen
material required.

In cold weaiher a flannel shirt, cloth coat, etc., should be worn, in
accordance with the temperature.

Every soldier should he strongly impressed with. t\i'B ^x^^et c{t
estpoHnf f/ie Aead, i/?wovercd, to the direct rays of tlie sniv. A X\ght, cool,

* ^y J9mc3 Harrison, M.B., Sui^eon, Hon. Company's ServVee.

34 BATHING, FOOD, ETC. Sect. L

and comfortable eap^ which at the same time allows of evaporation from
the surface of the head and shades the eyes, temples, and back of the
neck, should be provided.

The men should be instructed never to throw this off, under any cir-
cumstances ; and they should be told, on the first symptoms of giddiness,
flushing of the face, fulness of blood in the head, or dimness of vision,
to pour cold water over the head, and to keep it wet (with the cap on)
for some hours. Strict adJiei'ence to tlwse instructions would prevent
the large majority of cases of coup de soldi.

No soldier should be allowed to remain in wiet clothes longer than can
be avoided. WhUe in exercise no danger results ; but from lying down
in damp clothes, fever, dysentery, or disease of the liver inevitably ensue.

When in tents, the kandts * on the shady side should be thrown down,
and the air be allowed to circulate freely. At night, unless the weather
is very cold, the Itandts on two sides of every tent should be removed.
Protection from dew and rain is all that is required. More harm is
caused by the respiration of contaminated, close, and impure air than is
ever brought about by exposure to the night wind.

Dry straw, grass, hirhi (the stalk otjodr, a kind of Indian com), or any

.of the stalks used in thatching, make excellent bedding, when covered

with blankets.

Bathing,

The urgent necessity of keeping the pores of the skin open in a hot
climate is only recognised by officers in reference to themselves ; its para-
mount importance is not impressed upon the men. Soldiers should be
made to bathe at least three times a week in cold water. This operation
should always be performed upon an empty stomach, and the morning,
before breakfast, is the best time.

It is not safe to bathe when the body is much heated, if, at the same
time, it is fatigued. Hence, on the march, the evening, about four hours
after dinner, would be an appropriate time.

The skin should be thoroughly dried and rubbed.

Water can generally be pi'ocured from some stream or tank ; if these
are not convenient, the wells will always furnish abundance.

Food,

Experience proves that the same amount of animal food is not required
in a hot climate to preserve health and strength as in a cold one. A
large amount of animal food, instead of giving strength, heats the blood,
renders the system feverish, and consequently weakens the whole body.

The RAjpiits of Rdjpiitdna, and the Sikhs of the Panjdb, are physically
as strong as Europeans, and they are capable of enduring more fatigue,
and withstanding better the vicissitudes of the climate of India. This is
due, partly to race, but chiefly to the nature of their food, of which the
staple is wheaten flour, made into cliapdtis. They eat but twice a day ;
and, although they partake of animal food, they do so in very much less
proportion than is the habit in Europe.

Hermetically sealed, preserved, or salted provisions are noxious, if
partaken of for a prolonged period, or to the exclusion of fresh food.

Bread, when tolerably well made, is of course one of the best articles

of diet. Biscuits are not so digestible, but they have the advantage of

being easily carried, and of being always ready. In the absence of

these, flour {dta) can always be procured, and chapdtis (a thin un-

Jcarened cake) are easily made, arc highly nutritious, and are perfectly

dj^'-cstible when eaten fresh and hot. Wlieu coVd aM io\x^ Wo;^ ^xe

^ Kandts^ walla Qf a tent.

Sect. L BTIMULANTS. 35

tmwholesome. CJuip&tis can be baked in any quantity on iron plates
made for the purpose, and every European should learn (which he can
do from any native) how to knead and prepare them. Flour can be
got from every village, and with it no European detatchment need ever
be without " the staff of life."

Rice and ddl (pulse or vetches, especially when split) can also be had
anywhere. These, boiled separately, and afterwards mixed together,
make, with the addition of salt and pepper, a wholesome and nutritious
food, well suited for breakfast.

Beef is the meat usually furnished to regiments. The lean commis-
sariat kine do not promise much, but it is difficult to j^rocure other meat
in sufficient quantity. Slow boiliug for two hours will make any meat
tender, and the water in which it is boiled makes excellent soup. The
addition of whatever vegetables are to be had, of a few slices of salted
pork or bacon, two or tlj^ee handfuls of flour, some onions and salt, and
pepper, makes a savoury mess. Rice, boiled in a separate vessel, and
afterwards mixed up with the soup, meat, etc., adds to the quantity and
quality of the meal, which is wholesome, nutritious and palatable.

Mutton and fowls may occasionally be had as a change ; and in the
neighbourhood of large rivers, fish makes a useful variety, and can usually
be had in abundance.

Milk is an invaluable article of diet, and should be largely supplied
to soldiers.

Vegetables are essential to the preservation of health. Opportunities
for procuring them in quantity present themselves much oftencr on the
line of march than is generally supposed.

In cold weather inquiry will prove that in the neighbourhood of nearly
every halting place there are fields of carrots, turnips, onions, and of many
native vegetables, such as haigan {Solarium tnelogena^ sdg (greens), &c.

Fruit, when sound and ripe, is beneficial instead of hurShil. Unripe
or over-ripe fruit will produce disease. The water-melon and guava
are, however, indigestible. The oranges, strawberries, custard-ap'plcs,
loqudt, musk-melons, pineapples, grapes, and lichls can be partaken of
with advantage.

Stimulants,

The same amount of spirit undiluted is much more injurious than
when mixed with water.

Great attention should be paid to the time of serving out the drams.
They should never be given on an empty stomach, when the system is
heated, or when exposed to the sun. To give men raw spirit early in the
morning, before any food is taken, is the surest way to lay the foundation
of disease. After a meal, with some hours of rest in the shade in pros-
pect, is the best period.

Officers on coming to India for the first time find themselves sur-
rounded by entirely new influences. The diseases of the country are
formidable and rapid in their progress, and inspire in many cases a vague
tenor, which prevents the due exercise of the reasoning powers. The
climate is found to be exhausting and debilitating ; exposure to the sun is
understood to be dangerous; and there are many other circumstances
which combine to depress the mind and body, and to pre-dispose to the
belief that some extraordinary course must be pursued to ward ofL ^si-^
evil consequence.

Recourse Js had in too many cases to stimulants ; bToadj \s tsCfc^ea m
Jai^e quantities to prevent the approach of sickness ; exexcVac asv^ \JQft
(mImMy methods adopted in other countries to keep \iie ixaioa ^oxxa^L

36 CHROXOLOGICAL TABLES. Sect. I.

and vigorous are neglected. Many become the victims of their own
imprudence and rashness, and their premature death is erroneously
ascribed to the effect of the Indian climate.

With ordinary precaution and attention to the common laws of hygiene
Europeans may live as long and preserve their health as well in In(Ua as
in Britain.

The neglect of these precautions rapidly produces fatal results. The mor-
tality from disease far exceeds that caused by the enemy, and it behoves
every officer to study carefully the means of preventing sickness.

CHRONOLOGICAL TABLES.

As the Muhammadan era of the Hijrah (prop. Hijrat), " Departure,"
is used to some extent in the S. of India, it is necessary to give a brief
account of it here. It takes its name from the "departure" of
Muhammad from Makkali to Madinah on Friday the 16th of July,
622 A.D. This date was ordered by the Khalifali Umar to be used
as their era by Muhammadans. Their year consists of 12 lunar

Rajab 30 days

Sh'aban . . . . 29 „
Ramazdn . . . . 30 „

months, as follows : —

Muharram

. 30 days.

Safar ....

. 29 „

Rabiu'l awal .

. 30 „

Rabiu 's-sdnl or '1 ilkhir

. Zv „

Jumdda '1-avval

. 30 „

Shawwal . . . .29
Zl'l k'adah or Zik'adah . 30

Jumdda 's-sanl or '1 dkhir 29 „ Zl'l hijjah or Zl hijjah . 29 „

= 354 days.

Their year, therefore, is 11 days short of the solar year, and their
New Year's Day is every year 11 days earlier than in the preceding
year. In every 30 years the month Zi hijj is made to consist 11 times
of 30 days instead of 29, which accounts for the 9 hours in the lunar
year, which =354 days, 9 hours. To bring the Hijrah year into
accordance with the Christian year, express the former in years and
decimals of a year, and multiply by -970225, add 621*54, and the
total will correspond exactly to the Christian year. Or to effect the
same correspondence roughly, deduct 3 per cent, from the Hijrah year,
add 621*54, and the result will be the period of the Christian year
when the Muhammadan year begins. AH trouble, however, of com-
parison is saved by Dr. Ferdinand Wustenfeld's Comparative Tables,
Leipzig, 1854.

Tlie TdrUch HUM, or Era of AJcbar,

This era begins from the commencement of Akbar's reign on Friday
the 5th of Rabiu's-sdnl, a.h. 963= 19th of February, 1556. To make
this era correspond with the Christian, 963 must be added to the latter.

The Fasli Era, or Harvest Era.

According to Grant Duff (vol. i., p. 126, not p. 32, as wrongly

given in the index of that book), this era was first introduced into the

Mardtha country, and thence into the S. of India by Shdh Jahan for

revenue purposes in 1637-1638. This era, like the preceding, dates

from the 1st year of Akbar's reign, 963 a.h., the concurrent Fasli

beginninfr on the Ist of the lunar month Ashwin (September, October),

or 10th of September, 1556. To convert t\\e A^ciles \ivAi\Y\9> ct\\.lQ tlici

Christian, add 592 if Jess thaji 4 months liaYe ex^vt^^, ^^'i *\l mortis

Sect. I.

ERAS, ETC.

Tlie Kdli-Yug, or HindA Era.
According to the Hindus, the workl is now in its 4th Yuj,', or A;;(',
the Kali-Yug, which commenced from the equinox in March, 3102 B.C.,
and will last 432,000 years. The 3 precetling ages wen^ the Satya,
the Tretd, and the Dwapara. The Satya, or Age of Truth, histe<l
1,728,000 years ; the Tretd (from tra, " to preserve ") laste<l 1,296,000 ;
and the Dwdpara (from dvm, " two," and par, " after ") 8G4,CKX) years.

Tlie Era of Vikramdditya, or SamxcaU
This era commenced from the 1st vear of King Vikramdditra, who
began to reign at Ujjain 57 B.C. To conveil Samwat years into
Christian, deduct 57. But if the Samwat year be. less than 58, deduct
its number from 58, and the remainder "will be the year b.c.

The Shdka Era, or Era of Shdlivdhaiia,
ShdHvdhana, " Borne on a tree," from Shdli, the SJwrea robusta, and
vdhana, " vehicle," was a king who reigned in the S. of India, and
whose capital was Pratishthdnah. He is said to have been the enemy
of Vikramdditya, and is identified by Wilfonl with Christ. The
Shaka dates fix>m the birth of Shdlivdhana on the 1st of Vaisjikli,
3,179 of the Kdll-Yug= Monday, 14th of March, 78 a.d. To make
the dates of this era correspond Avith the Christian, add 78.

Era of Parashurdma,

This is the era which, according to Colonel "Warren's Avork, the
" Kdla Sankalita," " Arrangement of Time," is used in Malaydla, that
is, in the provinces of Malabdr and Travankor down to Cape Kumiiri
(Comorin). It is named from a king who reigned 1176 yeai-s B.C.,
or in 1925 of the Kdli-Yug. The year is sidereal, and conmiences
when the sun enters Virgo in the solar month Asliwin. The era is
reckoned in cycles of 1,01)0 years, and the 977th yeiir of the 3rd cycle
began 14th of September, 1800 a.d.

The Hindu year has 6 seasons or ritus : VasantUy " spring," f7rw/i?>Jrt,
" the hot season," varsha, " the rains," sharada, " the autumn," (from
sJiri,) " to injure," lienuuitaf " the winter," shishlray " the cool season."

Table of the Seasons and, Months in Shr.y Hindi and Tamil.

1. Vasanta.

2. GbIshma .

3. Vabsha .

•

4. Shabada.

5. Hemanta

8HJ8HIBA.

Names of Montus.

SKR.

\ C'haitra.
\ Vaishdkha.
) lyeshtha.
\ A'shddha.
\ Sravana.
) Bhdch-a.
) AJshwina.
\ Kdrtika.
i Mdrgaslrsha.
/ Faasha.
Mdgba.
Phdiguna,

HlNl)f.

Chait.

Balsdkb.

Jeth.

Asarh.

Sawaii.

Bhddoii.

Asaii.

Kdrtik.

-Aghan.

Pi'is.

JVIdgh.

PhaguD.

TAMIL.

Punj^uui.
C'hditram. ]
A'yassie. )
Auiii. }
Audi. J
Auvani. j
Paratasi \
Arpesi. )

•rye. \

'M.OQBSV.

38 GOVERNORS OF MADRAS. Sect. I.

Kam<}8 of tlie Governors of Madras and dates of tlieir accession,

A.D.

Sir William Langhome 1672

Mr. Streynsham Master 6th February, 1678

„ William Gifford 13th July, 1681

„ ElihuYale 4th August, 1687

„ Nathaniel Higginson 13th October, 1692

8ir J. Gtoldsborough, Kt oth December, 1692

Mr. Nathaniel HiggiDson 10th August, 1693

„ Thomas Pitt 12th July, 1698

„ Gulstone Addison 3rd September, 1709

„ Edmond Montague (Provisional) . . 28th October, 1709

„ William Fraser 14th November, 1709

„ Edward Harrison 22nd July, 1711

„ Joseph Collett 19th January, . 1717

„ Francis Hastings 29th January, 1720

„ Nathaniel Elwick 26th October, 1721

„ James Macrae 28th January, 1725

„ George Morton Pitt 25th May, 1730

„ Richard. Benyon 3rd February, 1736

„ Nicholas Morse 28th January, 1744

Major Stringer Lawrence .... 24th November, 1749

Mr. R. Prince, Dep.-Gov. Pres. Fort St. David . 12th December, 1749

„ Richard Starke, Dep.-Gov 6th March, 1752

„ Thomas Saunders, Governor .... 17th April, 1752

„ Greorge Pigot 14th January, 1755

„ Robert Palke 14th November, 1763

„ Charles Bouchier 25th January, 1767

„ Josias Du Pr6 8th February, 1770

„ Alexander Wynch 2nd February, 1773

Lord Pigot . . . . . . . 10th December, 1775

Mr. George Stratton 24th August, 1776

„ John Whitehill 31st August, 1777

„ Thomas Rumbold 8th February, 1778

„ John Whitehill 6th April, 1780

„ Charles Smith 8th November, 1780

Lord Macartney 22nd June, 1781

Mr. Alexander Davidson 18th June, 1786

Sir Archibald Campbell 6th April, 1786

Mr. John Holland 7th February, 1789

„ Edward John Holland 12th February, 1789

Major-Greneral William Meadows . . . 19th February, 1790

Sir Charles Oakley, Bart 1st August, 1792

Lord Hobart 7th September, 1794

Lieut.-General George Hanis . . . .21st February, 1798

Lord Clive 21st August, 1798

Lord William Cavendish Bentinck . . . 3()th August, 1803

Mr. William Petrie 11th September, 1807

Sir G. H. Barlow, Bart 24th December, 1807

Lieut.-General the Hon. J. Abercromby . . . 21st May, 1813

Hon. Hugh Elliot 16th September, 1814

MaJoT'GeneTBl Sir Thomas Munro, Bart. . . . 10th June, 1820

Mr, If, 8, Graeme 7th July, 1827

lit Hon. S. B, Lusbington 1^^^ Oc\o\ses, \%^2.T

-^Jeat-Geaeral Sit Frederick Ad&m . . • ^^\Jdl Oc.\o\s«n \^^%

Sect. I. PRINCIPAL EVENTS IN INDLVN HISTORY. 31)

A.I).

Mr. G. E. Russell 4th Miircli, ls:j7

Lord Elphinstone r»th March, 1837

Marquis of Tweeddale 24th September, 1842

Mr. H. Dickinson 23rd Febnmir, 1848

BirHenry Pottinger, Bart., G.C.C 7th April, 1848

Mr. D. Eliott 23nl April, 18.'>4

The Rt. Hon. George Francis Robert Lord Harris . 28th April, 1854

Sir Charles B. Trevelyan, K.C.B. . . ... 28th March, 18:>0

Sir Henry George Ward, G.C.M.G 18r>0

W. Ambrose Morehead, Esq 4th August, 18(K)

Sir William Denison, K.C.B 18th Februair, 1861

Lord Napier of Ettrick, K.T 27th Mardi, 1866

LoidHobart ir>th May, 1872

The Most Noble the Duke of Buckingham and Cliandos, 23rd Nov. 1875

The following tables supply the dates of the principal events in
Indian History : —

•^ B.C.

Arrangement of the first nine Books of the Rig Veda . (about) 14(K)
Composition of parts of the tenth Book . . . (about) 1100

^nml ^^* (about) 1000— 800

Siitras Yaidik, comprising laws 1000

Siitxas of Philosophical system .... (about) 12(K) — 800

AthanraVeda 800

Sakya Muni, birth 638

Death and ^ra 543

First Buddhist Convocatiou at Kdjagri"«'i 543

Voyage of Skylax down the Indus by order of Dareius Hystaspes . 490

Second Buddhist Convocation at Vesali 443

Alexander crossed the Indus, April 327

Chandragupta or Sandrakottus 315

Mission of Megasthenes to the Court of fcJandrakottus . . . 302

Rimayana 300

Asoka 270

Third Buddhist Convocation 249

Mah&bh4rata • 240

Laws of Manu 200

Menander 126

Ceylon Buddhistical Books 104 — 76

Mea of Vikram^ditya and of the iShakuutald 67

A.D.

Cave Temples at Salsctte 50 — 100

JEra, of Sh^vdhan 78

84h dynasty of Gujardt . 100

Travels of Fa-Hian 399

Mahawanso 459—477

Travels of Hiuan Tsaug (129—645

Purdnas 800—1400

Early Muhanimadati Conqueron- of India and ilieir Successors,
Muhammad Edsim conquers Sindh for the Khalifah Walid . . 1\\
Sabuktigln (Sahnctagi), sumamed Ndsira *d-dln, King oi G]ciM.m

sndKA uT^, defeats Jayp&l, the Brdhman King oi IJ^ ."W . In'^ ^11
Ian aa (IsmaieJ), second son of iSabuktigln, Bucceods \na faWvfit * ^^1

40 MUHAMMADAN DYNASTIES. Scct. I.

A.D.

Mal;mM I. (Mamood), eldest son of Sabuktigln, wrests the crown

from his brother 997

Eleventh invasion of India by this Prince, in which he plunders

and destroys SomnAth 1022

Muhammad I. (Mahommed), son of Mahmiid, succeeds . . . 1028

Mas'aiid I. (Masaood), second son of Mahmiid, dethrones his brother 1028
Muhammad I. restored on the murder of Mas'aiid by Ahmad, the

son of Muhammad 1041

Modiid (Modood), son of Mas'aiid 1041

Mas'aiid II., son of Modiid (6 days) 1049

Interregnum of one year till 1050

Abu'l ^asan 'All, son of Mas'aiid I . 1051

'Abdu 'r-rashid, son of Maljmiid I., succeeds, and is shortly after

murdered by one of his chiefs named Tughral .... 1052

Tughral (40 days), and is murdered 1052

Farrukh ZAd, son of Mas'aiid 1052

Ibrahim I., brother of Farrukh Zad 1058

Mas'aiid III., son of Ibrahim 1 1098

Arsilla, brother of Mas'aiid III 1115

BahrAm, son of Mas'aiid III 1117

Death of Bahrdm and extinction of the kingdom of Ghazni by the

Princes of Ghor 1152

Tlie House of Ohazni at Ldliur.

Khusrau I., son of Bahrdm 1152

Khusrau II., son of Khusrau 1 1159

Muhammad Ghori takes Ldhiir and dethrones Khusrau II. . . 1184
Mnl;iammad defeats the Kdjds of N. India on the banks of the

Saraswati, 80 m. from Dihll, with dreadful slaughter . . 1193
Muhammad Ghori assassinated in his tent on the banks of the

Nlldb by a band of Gikkars 1205

The Slave I>ynasty.

Kutb, an imperial slave, succeeds to the sovereignty of Lahiir, and

soon after conquers Dihll 1205

Ardm, son of Kufb, King of Dihll 1210

Altamsh, a slave, but originally of a noble family . . . . 1210

Firiiz Shdh, son of Altamsh 1235

Sult.dnah Rizla, eldest daughter of Altamsh 1235

Bahrdm, son of Altamsh 1239

Mas'aiid rV., son of Firiiz 1242

Mahmiid II., younger son of Altamsh 1245

Balin, Vazir of Mahmiid 1265

Kai Kubdcl, grandson of Balin 1286

Finiz IL, Khiljy . . . 1289

Alldhu 'd-din I., having murdered Firiiz II., ascends the throne . 1295
*Umar, youngest son of Alldh (but seven years old) . . .1316

Mubdrak, third son of Alldh 1316

Mubdrak murdered by his slave, Khusrau 1321

Tughlak I., a slave 1321

J^Q|}ammad III., son of Tughlak 1325

in[nizIIL, cousin of Mal^ammad III 1351

p^JiJak JZ, grandson of Fiiiiz 111 \^'«^

Sect. I. MUHAMMAD AN DtNASTIES. 41

A.D.

Mnl^ammad IV., son of Abii Bakr 1381)

Hnm^yiin or Sikandar, son of Mnl^ammad IV. (45 days) . . . 1302

Ma^mild III., son of Muhammad rV 1393

Timiir Lang (Tamerlane) conquers Hindiistdn, takes Dihli, and
massacres the inhabitants. He returns by way of Kibul to
8amar]^and, leaving Khizr Viceroy of Multdn, Ldhiir, and
Dlbalpur. Mahmiid takes refuge in Gujarat, but on Timiir's

departure returns and re-ascends the throne for a short time . 1397

I>yna%t\i of Lodl,

DaulatLodi 1413

Khizr. (This Prince claimed to be a Saiyid, and he and the three

following Emperors do not belong to the Lodi dynasty) . . 1414

Mubarak II., son of Oizr . 1421

Mul^ammad V., grandson of Khizr (Mubdrak being assassinated

by the Vazir) . . . ' 1433

Alldhu 'd-dln II., son of Mul>ammad V. 1447

Beloli (an Afghan of the tribe of Lodi) 1450

Niz4m or Sikandar I., son of Beloli 1488

Ibrahim II., son of Sikandar 1 1516

Home of Timiii'y or Mughnh.

Bdbar, son of Amir, son of Abii Said, son of Muhammad, son of

Mlrdn Shdh, son of Timtir *....'... 1525

HumAyiin, son of Bdbar 1530

Shir or Farld, an Af shdn of the Sur tribe, expels Humdyiiu, who

takes refuge with Sh^ Tahmdsp, king of Persia . . . 1542

Salim (Selim) or Jaldl, younger son of Shir 1545

Flniz, son of Salim (three days, murdered by Mubarak) . . 1552

Mubdrak or Muhammad ' Adil, nephew of Shir, styled Mul^ammad VI. 1 552

Ibrahim III., cousin of Mul^ammad 1552

Humayiin restored 1554

Akbar the Great 1555

Salim or Jahdngir, son of Akbar 1605

Khurram, third son of Jahdngir, and known as Shdh Jahau . . 1627

Aorangzib or 'A'lamgir, third son of Shdh Jahdn .... 1658
Muhammad Mu'azzam, second son of Aurangzib, and known as

'BahddurShdh 1707

Mu'izza'd-din or Jahdnddr Shah, eldest son of Bahddur Shdh . 1712

Farrukhsiyar, son of 'A'?jim, second son of Bahddur Shdh . . 1713

Rafi'au'd-darjdt, son of Rafi'au-sh-shdn, third son of Bahddur Shdh

(a few days) 1717

Muhammad Shdh, son of Jahdn, son of Bahddur Shdh . . . 1718

Nddir Shdh takes and sacks Dihli 1739

Al^mad Shdh, son of Muhammad Shdh 1747

'lydzu'd-din, son of Jahdnddr Shdh, and known as 'A'lamgtr II. . 1753

Interregnum

'A'li Gauhar, known as Shdh 'Alam 1701

Akbar, son of Shdh 'Alarn 1806

Muhammad Bahddur 1837

Bahmani I>7/nasty of Kalhargak^

J, Bulfdn 'AJda 'd-din If asm Gdngo Bdhman Shdh, began

to reign AM. 746 =^ A.D. lSi7 . . ... 15^ \i^';

42 MUHAMMADAN DYNASTIES* Sect. I.

DIED — A.H. A.D.

2. Muhammad Shdh Sultdn 776 1374

3. Sultdn MujAhid ShAh ' 779 1377

4. Sultdn Daiid Shdh 780 1378

5. Sultdn Mahmiid Shdh 799 1396

6. Sultdn Shamsu 'd-dln Shdh 799 1396

7. SulidnGhiydsu'd-dlnShdh 811 1408

8. Sultdn Flniz Shdh 836 1432

9. Sultdn Al^mad Shdh . 848 1444

10. Sultdn 'Aldu 'd-din Shdli 871 1466

11. Sultdn Humdydn Shdh 875 1470

12. Sultdn Nizdmu 'd-dln Shdh . . . . . .877 1472

13. Sultdn Muhammad Shdh 897 1491

14. Sultdn Mahmiid Shdh 924 1518

15. Sultdn WaHu'Udh Shdh 927 1520

16. Sultdn 'Aldu 'd-dln Shdh 929 1522

17. Sultdn Aljmad Shdh . . 929 1522

18. Sultdn Kalima'Udh Shdh 934 1527

These dates were obtained at Kalbargali itself from a local history.
It will be seen that they do not correspond with the list given in
Prineep's " Indian Antiquities/' vol. ii., p. 314, which is here sub-
joined, or with that in the " Maisiir Gazetteer," vol. i. p. 225, which
appears to have been copied from the latter.

Table LXXVIIL — Bdhmani DynaHy of Kalhargah or Ahsan&bdd,

1. 'Aldu 'd-dln Hasan Shdh gango Bdhmani, servant of a Brdh- A.D.

man in M. Taghlak's court 1347

2. Muhammad Shdh I. . 1368

3. Mujdhid Shdh 1375

4. Ddiid Shdh 1878

5. Mahmiid Shdh I. . . 1378

6. Ghiydsu 'd-dln 1397

7. Shamsu 'd-dln Shah 1397

8. Flroz Shdh 1397

9. Abmad Shdh Wall (Khan Khandn) 1422

10. 'Aldu 'd-dln Shdh II. " 1435

11. Humdyiin the Cruel 1457

12. Ni?5dm Shdh 1461

13. Muhammad Shdh II • . . 1463

14. Mahmiid II. 1482

15. Ahmad Shdh II 1518

16. 'Aldu 'd-dln Shdh III 1520

17. Wallu'lldh 1522

18. Kaldm Ullah 1525

It is added that with the last named king, " the Bdhmani dynasty
of Bldar (Ahmadabdd)" terminates, and is succeeded by that of Amir
Barld at Alimaddbdd, and the following names are given : —

1. Kdsim Barld, a Turkl or Georgian slave 1492

2. Amir Barld 1504

3. 'Aid Barld Shdh, first who assumed royalty .... 1549

4. Jhrahim Barld Shdh 1562

^, Kdsim Barid Shdh 1569

6', MIrz4 'Ali Barld Shdh, deposed by his icla^ivc . . » . \xa%
^' Amir Barid Sh6h II T , ^'^^^

Sect. I. KINGS OF THE DAKH.VN. 43

Here it must be observed that only the first ei«;ht kinj;s in thi' first
lists reigned at Kalbargah. The tombs of all the others are at Bidar,
and this latter place is called Mnhammaddbad, not AhmadilUul.
The " Maisiir Gazetteer," voL i. p. 228, also agrees that Abmad, the
8th king, retired to Bidau*.

Abstract of the hvtfory of the Mvhammadan KinffJt tvho ruled in the
Dakhan, after the Bdhmani dynasty of Kalbargah,

Abiil-Muj^affar Yusuf 'A'dil Shah, the foimder of the A'dil Shdhi
dynasty of Vijayapiir, or Bijdpiir, was the son of A'gha Miinid or
Amurath II., Emperor of Rum, i.e, Asia Minor. His eldest brother,
on his accession, ordered him, then an infant, to be strangled ; but
his mother substituted a slave, and sent him out of the country. He
was educated at Sava, and of his own accord passed through Persia
to India, and was there sold as a Georgian slave at the age of 17 to
Ma^miid Gawdn, minister of Mul^ammad Sh^ Bahmani II. He
soon distinguished himself ; and when Nisjamu 1-Mulk was slain at
Kehrla, in 1467, Yiisuf took command of the army of the Dakhan.
After the death of Muhammad Shdh, in 1489, he retired from Bidar
to Vijayapiir, and declared himself independent. In 1493 he de-
feated the Rdid of Vijayanagar, and took 200 elephants, and, it is
said, two millions of pounds sterling, and this accession of wealth
confirmed his power. One of his first steps was to surround his
capital, Vijayapiir, with a stone rampart. In 1497, he betrothed his
inmnt daughter to Ahmad, the son of Maljimud Shah Bahmani ; and
in 1504 defeated and slew in battle Dastiir Dlndr, the Governor of
Kalbargah and Sdgar, whose province he annexed to his own dominions.
At the same time, 'Ainu ^-Mulk Gildni, who held the Konkan and
all the sea-board, did homage to him as his vassal, so that he now
assumed the title of Shah, and caused the Khutbah to be read in liis
own name, this being the mark of royalty. In 1510 he re-took Goa
from the Portuguese, who had captured it that year ; shortly after
which success he died.

The first event of importance in the reign of Ism'ail Shah, who,
when he succeeded his father, Yiisuf, was yet a child, was the final
surrender of Goa (which had been retaken by Albuquerque on the
25th of November, 1510) to the Portuguese, on condition of their
attempting no further encroachments. This cession was made by
the advice of the Regent, Kamal Khan, who shortly after began to
aspire to the throne. He imprisoned Ism'ail and his mother, and
had resolved on putting them to dejith, when he was hiiusclf a^siissi-
nated by one of their friends. A struggle ensued, in which Ism'ail
was saved by his mother and Ids foster-aunt, who, clad in armour,
rallied a few troops, and fought round the young sovereign with the
skill and intrepidity of men. In 1514 the young monarch had to
defend his capital against Mahmiid Shah Bdhmani, or i-ather Amir
Band, the minister and virtual king, who advanced with 25,000 men
against him. These he defeated at Alldhpiir, 1^ m. from Vijaya^iir^
and took Majimud and his hon Ajmad prisonextt. .He \.i^\i^^^^
captives with respect, released theiUy and gave to M^maCi \v\s ^\a\Kt^
who had been betrothed to him 17 years be!oi;e, A. v^a£>5toW^ ovxX.

44 KINGS OP THE dakhan, Sect. I.

with Vijayanagar in 1519, and here Isma'il, impmdently crossing the
Krishna with a small force when heated with wine, was defeated, and
242 elephants and many of his soldiers were drowned. The same
year he received an embassy with the j)resent of a sword from Shdh
Ism'ail Safavl of Persia. In 1524 he gave his sister Maryam to
Bnrhdn Shdh of Al^madnagar, but neglecting to make over the
districts of Sholapiir, which he had aUotted as her dowry, a war
ensued, and in 1525 Ism'all defeated his brother-in-law with great
slaughter, and took his royal standard. In 1528 he again defeated
Burhan Shah, and next year took Bidar, where, however, he still
suffered the pageant king, Allahu 'd-din II., to reside. In 1531 he
again defeated the King of Ahmadnagar, and three years after closed
a glorioiLs reign of 25 years with a peaceful death.

The reigns of his sons, Malii and Ibrahim, present no events that
require to be noticed. Ibrahim was succeeded by his son 'All, who
formed an alliance with Kam Raja of Vijayanagar, and with him
ravaged the territories of Al?madnagar. Subsequently he joined a
coalition of Muslim princes against the Rdjd, and with Husain
Ni?5dm Shdh of Alimadnagar, Ibrahim Kutb Shdh of Golkonda, and
All Band of Bidar, fought the great battle of Talikot on the S. bank
of the Krishna on the 25th of January, 1565. In this battle the
army of Vijayanagar was completely destroyed, and it is said 100,000
Hindi\s fell by the sword. Rdm Rajd was taken prisoner during the
conflict, and his head struck off and exhibited on a pole by command
of Ilusain Ni?jdm Shah. A sculptured representation of it to this day
forms the opening of one of the sewers of the citadel of Vijayapiir,
and the real head itself was long annually exhibited on the anniver-
sary of the battle, covered with oil and red pigment, to the pious
Muhammadans of Alimadnagar, by the descendants of the execu-
tioner, in whose hands it remained. After their victory, the Kings
marched on Vijayanagar, which they sacked and razed, so that it never
afterwards recovered.

In 1568, according to Firishtah, but two years later according to
the Portuguese writers, 'All Shah attacked Goa, but was repulsed
with great loss. In the same year he took Adhwani, a fortress wliich
had hitherto been deemed impregnable. He subsequently took
Dhdrwad and Bdnkapiir, and in 1577 compelled the brother of Kdni
Raja of Vijayanagar to retire with his treasures and effects to the
fortress of Chandragiri in the Kamdtik. Two years after, he was
assassinated — by a eunuch who had been the favourite of 'All Barid
Shdh, King of Bidar, and who was surrendered to him as the price of
his aid in a war with the king of Ahmadnagar — after a fortimate
reign, leaving the gi*and cathedral, mosque, and many other build-
ings, to attest his magniticence, which they do to this day.

'All Shall was succeeded by his nephew Ibrahim 'A'dil Shdh II.,

son of Talmidsp, the younger brother of the late king. In 1586,

Ibrahim married the sister of Kuli Kutb Shdh of Golkonda. In

J5S9, his minister and general, Dildwar Klidn, was defeated by

Janidl ^dn of Alimadnagar, In this battle, the historian, Mu|?ani-

-ojad Kdsim Firishtah Astarabddl, who was witjoi 'D\Uv?wc"?>?v^,Nq^

f^oimded and taken prisoner,

Beet. I. RINGS OF THE DAKHAX. 45

Ibrahim was a prince of ^reat justice, as well as firmness and
i^esolution, which he showed in a successful war with Ahmadnagar,
and in escaping from the thraldom of his minister, Dildwar Khdn.
He was also humane, for the time and coimtry in which he lived ;
yet, after quelling a dangerous insurrection raised by his only brother,
Ism'ail, and one of his nobles, 'Ainul-Mulk, he found it rei^uisite to
put them both to death. This happened in 1593. Two yeai-s after
Ibrahim's general, Hamid Khan, defeated and slew in action Ibraliini
Ni;;dm Shdh, King of Ahmadnagar, and with this event Fiiishtah's
history of the 'A'dil Shahi kings closes abruptly.

Ibrahim 'A'dil Shah II. died in 1626, and his mausoleum " is the
most perfect (see Grant Duff, vol. i. p. 96, where for " latter " read
" former") and beautiful of the many buildings which remain among
the ruins of Vijayapiir to attest its former grandeur." He left his
son, Muhammad 'Adil Shah, who succeeded him in the sixteenth
year of his age, a full treasury, and an army which is stated at 8(),(XK)
horse and 200,000 foot. In 1635, Vijayapur was besieged by Khan
Daurdn, the general of the Emperor Shiih Jahan ; but the following
year Muhammad 'A'dil Shdh was so fortunate as to conclude an
advantageous peace, by which he gained the province of Kalydni and
the whole of the country between the Bhima and Nim rivers, as far
north as Chdkan. For these districts, however, he was to pay a
tribute of 20 Idkhs of pagodas. Soon after this peace Shdhji, the iather
of the famous Sivaji, took service with Muhammad 'A'dil Shdh, and
the Mardthas began to make a prominent figure in the wars of the
Dakhan. Muhammad died at Vijayapur on the 4th of November,
1656, and his son, 'Ali 'A'dil Shdh, then in his nineteenth year, suc-
ceeded him. In March, 1657, Aurangzib and Mir Jumlah laid siege
to Bijdpiir, and would have taken it but for the civil war breaking
out between Aurangzib and his brothers. In October, 1659, Sivaji
murdered the Bfjapiir general, Afzal Khdn, at Pratdpgarh, and
destroyed his army, taking 4000 horses, several elephants, camels, a
considerable treasure, and all the camp equipage. From this tune
may be dated the rise of the Mardtha power, which was soon to
eclipse, and fmally to extinguish, that of tne Muhanunadans in India.
At the close of 1662 Sivaji had wrested from Bijdpiir, notwithstand-
ing the vigour and personal bravery of Muhammad 'A'dil Shdh, the
whole of the Konkan from Kalydn to Goa, while his territory
extended inland about 100 m. He occupied this province with
50,000 foot and 7000 horse. On the 5th of January, 1664, he, with
4000 horse, sacked the city of Siirat, and on his return heard of the
death of his father, Shdhji, by which he acqidred a claim to the Forts
of A'rni and Porto Novo, and the province of Tanjiir, these having
been conquered and held by Shdhjf. On this Sivaji assumed the
title of Rdjd, and caused coins to be struck in his own name. Next
year his inroads into the imperial territories brought upon him the
Mu^nl Army, under AurangziVs general, the Rdjd Jay Singh, who
laid siege to Purandhar. The garrison were soon i^duc^^ \» ex.-
tremities, but before they capitulated Sivaji coticVviOl^^ a. \x^si.\*"^,
caJJed the Convention of Piirandhar, by which lie swrTeu^eT^iV V^iVXvvi
Mus^uJb 20 fort8 he had taken from them, retaiumg ^^ ^^ ^^ ^^^

46 KINGS OF THE DAEHAN. Sect. L

as a fief from the Emperor. A revenue also of five likhs of pagodas
was assigned to him, to be levied on Bijdpiir, and his son SMnbhuji
received a command of 5000 horse in the Imperial army. Sivaji
then joined Jay Singh's army with 2000 horse and 8000 foot, and
co-operated with him against Bijapiir, and for his services received
a letter of thanks, and an invitation to Court fcom Aurangzib.
Accordingly he set out for Dihli in March, 1666, and effected his
memorable escajje from thence in November of the same year.
From this time till the day of his death, on the 5th of April, 1680,*
his history is one of continued successes over the forces of Bijapiir
and Dihli.

Muhammad 'A'dil Shah died in December, 1672, and left a son.
Sultan Sikandar, five years old, and a daughter, Padshah Bibi.
Kliawas Khdn was appointed Kegent, but three years after, on con-
senting to give Padshah Bibl to one of the sons of Aurangzib, and to
hold Bijapur as a province of the Mughul empire, he was assassi-
nated by a faction headed by 'Abdul Karim, who then assumed the
office of Regent. He held office till January, 1678, when he died,
and was succeeded by Mas'aiid Khan. The Mughul army, under
Dilir Khdn, now advanced against Bijdpiir, and in spite of the
generous devotion of Pddshdh Bigam, who surrendered to the enemy
in order to remove that ground of contention, they laid. siege to the
city ; partly, however, owing to the vigorous resistance of the de-
fenders, partly through the harassing attacks of the Mardthas, Dilir
Khdn was compelled to retire, and was soon after attacked by a
Mardtha army and completely defeated.

The extinction of the 'A'dil Shdhl dynasty was thus deferred till
1686, when Aurangzib in person besieged Bljdpiir with a vast army,
and took it on the 15th of October of that year. The young prince
Sikandar was kept a close prisoner for three years in the Mughul
camp, when he died suddenly, not without suspicion of having been
poisoned by Aurangzib.

Sulfdn Kuli Kuth Shah, the founder of the Kutb Shdhi dynasty,
was a Turkumdn chief of the Baharlii tribe, and of the 'All Shakar
persuasion. He was bom at S'addbdd, a village in the province of
Hamaddn, and came to seek his fortune in the Dakhan towards the
close of Muhammad Shdh Bdhmanl's reign. He was soon ennobled
by the title of Kutbu'l Mulk, or " Pillar of the State," and made
governor of Telingdna ; and when Yiisuf 'A'dil Shdh and others threw
off their allegiance to the Bdhmani family, he, being then general in
chief, caused the public prayers to be read in the name of the 12
Imdms ; or, in other words, changed the public confession of faith
to that of the Shfahs. In 1512 A.D., under the weak government
of Mahmiid Shdh, he declared his independence, and assumed the
title of King of Golkonda, the name of a village where he built
his capital, and called it Mu^ammadnagar, after Muhammad Shdh
Bdhmani, but the original name prevailed. In the commence-
ment of his reign he was incessantlv occupied in reducing the Hindii
J^i/ds of Telingdna tDl the year 1533, when Ism'ail TA'dil Shdh

„ "i ^,9p^^^^"S to Wilks and Grant Duff (vol. i. p. 295); In \^%"i, \x<i(io^\iv^ \ft Qrcaa
3^(1 J^JlI (vol. a p. 410).

Sect. I. KINGS OF THE DAKHAK. 47

entered Ms country and laid siege to the fort of KalydnL A peace,
however, was concluded through the mediation of Burhdn Wi^dm
ShdL In 1543, in the ninetieth year of his age, Sultiin Kuli Kutb
Shdh was assassinated by a slave, or, according to another account,
y Mir Mal^miid Hamadiini, Governor of Golkondii, at tlie instigation
of his second son, Jamshid. He left thi-ee other sons, Kuthu'd-dln,
Haidar, from whom the present city of Haidaiiibiid taked its name, and
Ibrahim.

The jiarricide Jamshid Kutb Sh4h now ascended the tlironc, and
caused his elder brother, Kutbu'd-dln, to be blinded. Some time
after a war broke out between the kings of Bijilpiir and Ahmadnagar,
and Jamshid supported the latter, but was defeated iii several engage-
ments by Asad Khan, the Bijdpiir general, from whom he received a
sabre wound wliich cut off the tip of liis nose and his upper li]»,
disfiguring him for life ; though, accordinj? to another account, it was
his father. Sultan Kuli, who was so wounded, and not JauLslud.
Towards the close of his reign his temper became so morose that his
younger brothers fled to Bidar, where Haidar died. Ibrahim then
lied to Vijayanagar, but hearing of Jamshid^s death, wliich took place
in 1550 A.D.,he returned to Golkonda and was proclaimed king, thus
putting aside Subhdn Kuli, the infant son of Jamshid, who had been
lor a few months on the throne.

Ibrahim Kutb Shdh was a prince of great personal valour. ^Vhen
at Vijayanagar, he killed in a duel with swords Ambar Khan, an
officer in the pay of that court, and on the slaughtered man\s brotlier
taking up the quarrel, Ibrahim slew him also. In his public wiu^,
however, Ibramm showed more craft than courage. In 1558 he
joined Husain Nijjdm Shdh, King of Ahmadnagar, in a war with
Bijdpdr, but deserted his ally before any encoimter took place, and
soon after joined 'Ali 'A'dil Shdh and Rdm Rdjd of Vijayanagar in
besieging Ahmadnagar. After the fall of that city, with characteristic
inconsistency, Ibrahim again united his forces to those of Husain
Ni^dm Shdh, and in 1564 laid sie^e to Kalydnl, a fort belonging to
Bljapiir, and, in consideration of this aid, obtained the hand of Bibi
Jano^di, the daughter of Husain Shah. Next year he marched with
the other Muhammadan kings of the Dakhan against Vijayanagar,
and was present at the capture of the place, and defeat and death
of the Rdjd. Afterwards, while in alliance mth Murtazd Nijjdm Shdh,
of Ahmadnagar, in a war with 'AK 'A'dil Shdh of Bijdpiir, he made
overtures to the latter, who forwarded his letter direct to Murtaza.
Incensed at this treachery, Murtaza sent a body of horse to attack
Ibrahim's camp, which tney surprised, and took from him 150 ele-
phants, at the same time putting the flower of his army to the sword.
In order to check the pursuing enemy, his son, 'Abdul K^dir, asked
leave to head an ambuscade and make a counter-surprise ; but
Ibrahim, jealous of the young prince, onlered him to be confined and
then poisoned. He himself died suddenly, a.d. 1581, after a reign of
32 years, leaving six sons and thirteen daughters. He Yva.^ ^^a)iX^
adorned his capital, Qolkonda, and fortified it anew. Arcvow^ \\\^
pnhlic works the Husain Sdgar Tank and the K6\a CliabvxUmV^ «t
Mack Terrace, at Qolkonda, may he i)ai'ticularly menUoiieOL.

48 KINGS OF THE DAKHAK. Sect. I.

The ^Imdd SJidhi dynasty of Blrdr was founded by Fafhulldhf
originally a Hindu boy of Vijayanagar. Having been taken prisoner
by the Muhanunadans, he was enrolled in the body-guard of Khda
Jahdn^^ovemor of Birdr, who raised him to offices of distinction.
After Wain Jahdn's death, he repaired to the camp of Muhammad
Shah Bdhmani, and, through the influence of Malimiid Gawdn,
received the title of 'Imadu-1 Mulk, " Pillar of the State," whence his
subsequent title of 'Imtid Shah. He declared himself independent in
1484 A.D., and shortlv afterwai'ds died, and was succeeded by his
eldest son, Alldhu'd-dm.

This prince fixed his royal residence at Gaval. When Mahmiid
Shah Bdhmani fled from the persecutions of Amir Barid, Allahu'd-
dln marched to his aid, but Mahmiid deserted his ally in the heat of
. the action which ensued. Some time after, Alldhu'd-din having got
possession of the forts of Mahiir and R^garh by treachery, was
involved in a war with Burhdn Nizdm Shah of Ahmadnagar, who
utterly defeated him, and wrested from him the two forts. Allahu'd-
din had married the daughter of Ism'ail 'A'dil Shah, but that
monarch being at war with Vijayanagar was unable to assist him.
In 1527, however, Allahu'd-din, with Miran Muhammad, governor
of Khandesh, marched against Burhan Nizdm Shah to revenge his
defeat, but was again routed with the loss of all his elephants and
guns. Mirdn Muhammad then called in the aid of Bahadm' Shdh,
king of Gujardt, and swore fealty to him, as did AUdhu'd-din.
Bahddur Shdh advanced upon Ahmadnagar, and compelled the king
to acknowledge him as paramount, and had coins struck there in his
own name. Shortly after this, Alldhu'd-din died, and was succeeded
by his eldest son, Daryd 'Imdd Shdh, who gave his daughter, Bibi
Daulat, in marriage to Husain Nizdm Shdh of Ahmadnagar. His
reign appears to have been one of great tranquillity. He was suc-
ceeded by his son, Burhan 'Imdd Shdh, then a child. The regent,
Tufdl Khin, soon usurped the throne, and confined the young prince
in irons in the fort of Narnala. He was, however, himself made
prisoner by Murtaza Shdh of Ahmadnagar, who is said to liave
destroyed him and Burhdn 'Imdd Shdh, together with their whole
families, amounting to 40 persons, by confining them in a close
dimgeon on a hot night. Birdr thenceforward became an appanage
of Ahmadnagar.

The founder of the Nizdm SJidhi dynasty of Ahmadnagar was
Malik Ahmad Nizdm Bhdh, the son of Malik Ndib Nizdmul Mulk
Bahri. This Nizdmul Mulk was originally a Brdhman of Vijaya-
nagar, cpd his real name was Timappa ; but having been captured
in his infancy by the army of Ahmad Shdh Bdhmani, he was
brought up among the royal slaves as a Muhammadan, and named
Hasan. The King was so struck with his abilities that he gave
him to his son Muhammad Shdh as companion ; and when that
Prince succeeded to the throne, Hasan rose to the first offices of the
state, with the titles of Ashraf Humdyiin and Nizdmul Mulk.
After the assassination of Khwdjah Mahmiid Gawdn, he succeeded
^/m as prime minister ; but was liimseli a?sassma.\,<iv\. aX. TivOlw, by
Pnsand Khdn, in the year 1486. Malik AA>iaad, txX. \\i^ \\m^ qI \i\a.

Sect. I. KINGS OF THE DaKUAN'. 49

fatlier's death, was in charge of Jimlr, Bir, and other distnctsi near
Daulatabdd ; he had already displayed uncommon vigour in his
operations, and had reduced a niunber of hill forts, and the whole of
tne Konkan, and was besieging the seaport of Danda Rajpur, when
the tidings of Nizdmul Mulk^s murder reached him. Returning
forthwith to Junir, he assiuned the titles of the deceased, and began
to act as an independent prince. Mahmiid Shah Balmiani despatched
an army against him, under Shekh Muwallid, and 2iainu'd-din, tlio.
governor of Chdkan, a neighbouring fortress, when Abinad suddenly
escaladed the walls, having made a rapid counter-march at night.
He himseK was the first to ascend, and 17 of his comrades in full
armour secured their footing before the garrison were alarmed. The
assailants continued to swarm up, and in spite of a desperate resist-
ance, Chdkan was taken, and Zainu'd-din and 7(.)0 of his men cut to
pieces. Ahmad next made a night attack on Shekh Muwallid's
camp, and slew him and the flower of his army, taking all the ele-
phants, tents, and baggage.

Ma^miid Shdh now sent forwanl another army of 18,0(K) men,
under 'Azamatul Mulk, but Ahmad Shah passed him with 3000
horse, and arriving suddenly at Bldar, gained over the guard, was
admitted, and carried off, not only the females of his father's family,
but also those of the principal officers now in arms against bim. 'Aza-
matul Mulk was then disgraced, and Jahdngir Khdn appointed to
succeed him ; but on the 28th of May, 1490 a.d., Ahmad made a
night attack upon his camp, and put to the sword, or made prisoners,
the greater part of his army. Jahangir himself, and many of his
chief officers, were among the slain. Ahmad Shah, in commemora-
tion of this victory, which was called the ** Victory of the Garden,"
built a palace, the ruins of wliich still exist at Ahmudnagar. He
laid out there an elegant garden, which was- beautified by his suc-
cessors, surrounded with a fortification, and called BdgL Nisjam.
Moreover, being now placed by his successes Ijeyond all risk of re-
duction, he assumed the white canopy, and directed his own name
to be substituted for the B^hmani king in the public prayers. In
1439, Alimad, at the solicitation of Kdsim Barld, compelled Yusuf
^A'dil Shdh to raise the siege of Bidar. He then liimself imsuccess-
fully besieged Daulatdb^d for two months. Next year, a.d. 1494,
he laid the foundation of a new capital for his dominions, which he
called A^madnagar, or " the city of Ahmad." It was built on the
banks of the Sena river, and near the palace of the Bdgh Nizdm,
In the meantime, Malik Ashraf, the governor of Daulatabad, had
called in the aid of Mahmiid Shah Begarha, king of Gujarat. This
led to more than one campaign between Ahmad Nizam Shdh and
Mahmud in 1499 and the following years ; but at length the ganison
of Daulatdbdd deposed their commander, and surrendered to Ahmad
Shdh. In 1508 a.d. Ahmad Shah died. He was an able general
and politician, and renowned for his justice. Among other accom-
plismnents he was an expert swordsman, and used to permit yowxi^
men to exhibit their prowess before him in single coxabal, \m \\\a
jaactice grew to such a height that one or two pexiBbLed.eveir5 ^a"^%
tie iing then diecountenanced thesQ fights j but dueYiing^a^^^^^^

50 KINGS OP THE DAKHAN. Sect. L

such finn root that it spread all over the Dakhan, insomuch that
Firishtah tells us he himself saw two brothers, respectable grey-
beaixled men, and the son of one of them, engage three other grave
and elderly gentlemen, who were also brothers, with such fury that
all six combatants were slain.

Burhdn Nizam Shah, the son of Ahmad, ascended the throne in
his seventh year. At ten he was an accomplished scholar for those
days, and Firishtah mentions having seen in the Royal Library, at
Ahmadnagar, a work on the duties of kings, copied by him at that
early age. In 1510, he was present, mounted on the same horse
with his tutor, at the battle of Ranuri, when his troops entirely
defeated the army of Imadu'l Mulk, king of Birar. A peace fol-
lowed this victory, but hostilities were soon recommenced, in conse-
quence of a claim to the district of Patri, in the Birdr dominions,
preferred by Burhdn Shah, whose ancestors had been the Brahman
accountants of the place, before they moved to Vijayanagar, where
Nizdmul Mulk, the grandfather of Burhan, had been taken prisoner,
and converted to Isldm. It is a strikiug proof of the importance
attached to such hereditary offices in Hindustan, that, after a change
of faith, and after rising from a private station to a throne, the family
of Burhdn Shah should have perseveringly made war to recover this
district. In 1523, Burhdn married Bibi Maryam, the sister of
Isni'ail *A'dil Shdh ; in 1524, he attacked his brother-in-law, in con-
junction with the kings of Bidar and Biriir, but suffered a sanguinaiy
defeat. In 1527 he took the fort of Pdtri and razed it to the ground,
givmg over the district in charity to liis relatives, the Brahmans, in
whose hands it continued for several generations. 'Imdd Shah then
called in the aid of Bahadur Shah, king of Gujardt, who occupied
Ahmadnagar, taking up his quarters in Burhdn's palace, and com-
pelled him to submit to a disadvantageous peace. Burhdn Shdh, in
short, acknowledged himself the vassal of the king of Gujardt, and
even submitted to stand in his presence. In 1531 he invaded the
dominions of Ism'ail 'A'dil Shdh, but was totally defeated by him, with
the loss of 4000 men. In 1537 he was more successful, and took 1(X)
elephants and some guns from the king of Bijdpiir. In 1542 he
made another successful campaign in the same territory ; but, in
. 1546, he was defeated by Ibrahim Wdil Shdh, with the loss of 250
elephants and 170 guns. In subsequent campaigns against Bijdpvir
he was very successful ; but in 1553, while besieging the capital of
that name, he was seized with a mortal disease and returned to
Alimadnagar to die. His body was sent to the holy Karlmld in
Turkish Arabia, and entombed near the burial-place of Ilusain, the
grandson of the prophet.

IJusain Ni?jdm Shdh, the eldest son of Burhdn, succeeded his
father at the age of 13 years. The beginning of his reign was dis-
turbed by the pretensions of his half-brother, Shdh Haidar, whose
rebellion he quelled in spite of the support given to the pretender by
Ibrahim 'A'dil Shdh. In 1557 he gave his daughter in marriage to
the king of Birdr. In the same year his capital was besieged by the
united forces of B^dpi^Tf Golkonda, and \\\ayaTia.^«s, \mcA ^\v3aiu
fFa^ compelled to accept 9> very ignomimoTsia "g^w, \iv.\^^'l\xa ^w^

Sect. I. KINGS OP THE DAKHAX. 51

hid eldest daughter to Ihrahiiii Kutb Shall, and with him laid mi^l;**
to Kalyanf, which the kinj^ of Bijapiir had wrested from him. 'Ali
'A'dil Shah, however, called to his aid Ramr.ij of Vijayana;j;ar and
the kings of Bidar and Binii', and inflicted a signal defeat on Husiiin,
taking from him 660 pieces of cannon, and among them the celehmted
gun of Bijdpur, the llirgest piece of brass cast ordnance in the world
(see Bijdpur in Bombay Presidency), which hiul been cast by Chahbi
Kiiml Khan at Ahmadnagar. Three days afterwards he was again
put to the rout, and lost his few remaining guns. The enemy jnirsuitl
idm to Ahmadnagar, which they entered, and the Hindu soidiei-s of
Rdmraj committed every species of atrocity there. They were un-
able, however, to take the lort ; and, after beleaguering it for some
time, the siege was raised by an extmordinary tlood of the Sena,
which is said to have swe]>t away 25,000 of lliunnij's troops. lu
1564 9usain Nizam joined the Muhammadan league against Itaniriij,
who encountered them with an immense host, said by Firishttih to
have consisted of 2(K)0 elephant**, 70,(X)0 horse, and 9(HMHH) hitantry !
hut was defeated and slain. Husain Nizam Shiih died at Ahmad-
nagar in 1565, soon after this A^ictory, of a disonler brought on by
excess.

The son of Husain, Murta?a Nizam Shah, was yet a minor, when

by his father's death he became king. His mother, Khunza Sultanah,

acted as Regent, and conducted in person an invasion of the Bijapiir

dominions, and afterwards of Birar. In 1569 he ciuised his mother

to be seized and began to act for himself. Shortly after, he began to

display that blind violence which obtained for him the name of

Diwanah, " the madman." Being enraged with Kishwar Khan, the

governor of the fort of Dhanir and General of the Bijiljnir foix'es, he

charged up to the gates at full gallop, amid a shower of rockets and

cannon balls. Suddenly the fire ceased, and the enemy evacuated

the fort, a lucky arrow having killed Kisliwar Khan, and the garrison

beins terrified by the madness of the attiick. Soon after this, Miutiza

concluded an alliance with 'All 'A'dil Shdh, acconling to which he

was at liberty to reduce the kingdoms of Bin'ir and Bidar, while the

Bijdpur king prosecuted his comj[uests in the Karmitik. Birar was

soon subdued, and Burhdn 'Imddu'l-Mulk, the king, with his iisuip-

ing minister, Tufdl ^dn, were made prisoners, and died suddenly

in confinement. Murtaza then marched against Bidar, but was

recalled by the invasion of Birar by Mirdn Muhammad Shah, king

of Khandesh. This invasion he soon repelled, and obliged the ruler

of Khandesh to buy peace with a large sum of money. He would

soon have reduced the kingdom of Bidar also, but Mirzd Klu'in

Isfahdni, the crafty agent of Ibrahim Kutb Shah, mauiiged to fill his

mind with suspicions of his minister, Changlz Khan. Murtaza, in

consequence of these doubts, compelled the faithfid Changiz to drink

poison, but afterwards, discovering his error, he called his nobles

together, and, committing the government to Mir Kjizi Beg, shut

hiniself up in an apartment of his palace, and refused tio mvidvWfc m

public aftairs, as bein^ unworthy to reign. In 1584 \vfe oViXaiTv^^^L

KhadJJah^ the sister of Ihrahini 'A'cUl Shah, in marriage iox \i\«» v^w,

4£&6i husain, but, being jealom of the yoiing pxince, eTiOLW^o>xs^i)\

52 KINGS OF THE DA KHAN. Sect. I.

to destroy liini. A sanguinfuy struggle followed between the
king^s faction and that of the prince, and the historian Firishtah was
engaged on the side of the king. Mirdn Husain, however, proved
victorious, and put his father to death by suffocating him in a bath-
ing room, the doors and windows of which were closed, while a great
fire was kindled beneath.

The reign of the parricide Mlrdn IJusain was short and bloody. It
lasted but ten months and three days, when he was beheaded ty his
minister, Mirza ^dn, whom he had intended to destroy. The
minister, in turn, was seized by a chief named Jamdl Khan, newn in
pieces, and his limbs affixed to different buildings. The bodies of
his friends were rammed into cannon and blown to fragments.

Jamal Khan, who was now the most powerful noble in the State,
raised Ism'ail Nisjam Shdh, the son ot Burhdn Nizam Shdh, and
nephew of Murta?a, to the throne. Being himself of the schismatic
sect of Mahdi, who believe that Saiyad Muhammad, a.d. 1550, was
the promised Imam Mahdi, he persuaded the king to embrace that
heresy. It is a sect still existing in the Dakhan, the Niiwdbs of
Kamiil, Elichpiir, and Tuljepur having been followers of it. Jamdl
Khdn was opposed by Saldbat Khdn, who had been formerly prime
minister of Murtaza, but totally defeated him at Paitan on the
Godavdri. Saldbat Khdn soon after died at Talagdon, near Piinah,
and his mausoleum at Ahmadnagar is one of the most picturesque
objects of that interesting capital. Meantime Bufhdn Shdh, the
father of Ism'ail, who was a refugee with the Emperor Akbar,
thought the opportimity favourable for advancing his own claims to
the tlirone. He was supported by Bijdpur^nd after a short but
fierce struggle defeated and killed Jamdl Khan, and having im-
prisoned his son Ism'ail, was proclaimed king by the title of Burhdn
Nijjdm Shdh II. His reign was short and inglorious, lasting but 4
months and 16 days. The 'principal event of it was a terrible
slaughter inflicted on his forces by the Portuguese. He died in 1594,
and was succeeded by his son Ibrahim Nizdm Shdh, who, after a short
reign of four months, was killed leading his troops in an attack on
the forces of Bijdpiir.

The son of Ibrahim being an infant, it was proposed by Miydn
Manju, the noble of the greatest authority, to put him aside and
elevate some older prince of the Nizdm Shdhf family to the throne.
For this purpose Ahmad, the son of Tdhir, was elected, and he was
crowned August 6th, 1594. It was soon discovered, however, that
he was of spurious birth, and this led to a sanguinary struggle vnih
a faction headed by Ikhlds Khdn, who was at first so successfid that
Miydn Manjii invited the prince Murdd Mirzd, son of the Emperor
Akbar, to occupy Ahmadnagar. Murdd Mirzd accordingly advanced
with 30,000 Mugliul and RdJ2)iit horse, but before he could enter the
fort of Ahmadnagar, Manjii liad completely defeated the other jmrty,
and had begun to regret his overtures to the Mughuls. He, there-
fore, made preparations for the defence of the fort ; and, leaving
Chiincl BM, the aunt of the late king, and some of his own con-
fidential adherents therey he departed vrit\v A.\>Tivad. \.o ^^^k tlie aid of
tlie Kings of Golkonda and Bijapvir. l^o soouex -w^ \i^ ^qh^ S^mwx.

Sect I. KINGS OF THE 9AKHAN. 53

CMnd Bibi caused the chief officer he had left to superintend his
interests to be assassinated, took upon herself the conduct of the
defence, and proclaimed Bahddur Smili, the infmt son of the late
monarch, kin^. The Mua^uls invested Al^madnagar on all sides,
and cut off Smlh 'Ali, a cmef who endeavoured to throw reinforce-
ments into the place, witli all his men. Ibraliim 'A'dil Shdh of
Bijdpur, alarmed at this jirogress of the Dihli army, desjiatchetl
25,000 horse to Shiihdurg on the frontier, where they wen* joined by
]!kliydn Manju, Ahmad Shah, and Ikhliis Khun, who liud aside hi*
factious feelings on this emergency. Murdd Mirza, hearing of tliis
assemblage, determined to storm, and five mines wei-e laid, which
were to explode on the morning* of Feb. 21, 159(). One of tlie
Mu^ul nobles, however, betrayed the secret during the night to the

firriaon, who were thus enabled to render two of the mines useless,
hey were in the act of removing the powder from the thiixl when it
exploded, killing numbers of the counter-miners, and throwing down
several yards of the wall. A panic seized the garrison, but Cliand
Bibi, with a veil over her face, and a naked swonl in her hand,
rushed into the breach, and her example brought Ixick the fugitives.
Animated by her heroism, the besieged fought ^^ith such desperation
that, though attack succeeded attack from four i).m. till nightfall,
they were all repulsed. During the night, the ureach, under the
superintendence of Chand Bibi, was built up seven or eight feet, and
the Mughuls were so daunted by the defence that they made terais
and retired, on the province of Birdr being ceded to them. From
that time the Lady Chdnd was called Sultdnah Clidnd, "the Empress
Chdnd." Bahddur Shdh was proclaimed king ; but the fall ol the
kingdom was at hand. After three troublous yeai's, Akbar himseK
inarched towards the Dakhan in the beginning of the year 1599 A.D.
He laid siege to the fort of Asirgarh, wliile Prince Ddniyjil Mirzd and
Khdn Khdndn operated against Ahmadnagar. Chdnd Sultdnah was
baselv murdered by the garrison, and the Mughuls, having stormed
the lort, gave no quarter. Asirgarh fell at the same time, and
Bahddur Shdh was imprisoned in the fortress of Gwdlidr, where he
was at the time Firishteh wrote his history.

From this time, then, the kingdom of "Ahmadnagar may be said
to have become a province of the Mughul empii'e ; but the Nissdm
Shdhl officers having made the son of Shdh 'AH king, by the title of
Murtaza Nizdm Shdh II., this puppet monarch held liis com-t for
some time at Parainda. Meantime, an Abyssinian cliief, named
Malik Ambar, rose to great power, and eventually reduced under his
control nearly the whole of the Ahmadnagar territories. He, in
1610 A.D., founded the city of Khirkl, to which Aurangzib after-
wards gave the name of Aurangdbdd (see Grant Duff, voL i., p. 95),
and was renowned for his justice and wnsdom. He abolished revenue
farming, and collected the sums due from the land to government by
Brdhman agents under Muhammadan superintendence. He restored
the village system where it had fallen into decay, and levivfe^ a. TasA^
oi ttaseasment by collecting a moderate proportion oi t\\e ^^ ^^"^^^ "^"^
Jdnti and commuting this for a money iDayment a^tex W\g e^ervewc^
pfs f0w smsons. Ws territories thus became tbrivuv^ auOL^o^v^XowJ^.

54 DYNASTY OP bIdAR. Scct. L

and though he occasionally met with reverses, the ancient Nizdm
Shdhi flaj?, which he hoisted on the impregnable rock of Daiilatdbdd,
was never lowered ; and he even for a time regained Birdr and
Ahmadnagar itself. But in 1626 he died, and his death was
followed by the final annexation of Ahmadnagar to the Mughul
empire.

Kdsim Barld was the founder of the Barid SJidhi dynasty of
Bidar, He was a Tuik, and was sold as a Georgian slave to Sultdn
Muhammad Shdh Lashkari Bahmani. He distinguished himself in
reducing the rebel Mardthas of Paitan and Chdkan; and ha^dng
slain the chief Sahajl, was rewarded by the daughter of liis deceased
foe being bestowed on his son, Amir Barid, by Muhammad Shdh.
The tribe of the Mardtha chief now joined him as retainers, and it
was by their aid he rose to gieatness, and usuiped the forts of
Kandahdr, Udgarh, and Ansa. He died in 1504, having for 12 years
acted as an independent prince.

His son, Amir Barid, reigned 45 years. In his time, Kalimulldh
Shdh Bdhmani, the last of his race, fled from Bidar to Ahmadnagar.
At the same period, IsmM 'A'dil Shdh took Bidar, but made it over
again to Amir Barid, whom he invited to Bijdpiir, and entrusted
4000 foreign horse to his conmiand, deputing him to aid Burhdn
Nizdm Shdh. In the campaign which followed Amir Barid greatly
distinguished liimseK. Some years after, when proceeding again to
assist Burhdn Shdh, he died at Daulatdbdd. He was succeeded by
'Ali Barid, who first took the title of Shdh. Having offended Shdh
Tdhir, the envoy of Burhdn Shdh, who was sent to congratulate liim
on his accession, he incurred the resentment of that monarch, and in
the war which followed he was divested of almost all his territories.
Some years after, Murtaza Nizdm Shdh besieged Bidar itself, and
would have taken it but for the diversion effected by 'All 'A'dil Shdh.
'All (according to Prinsep, 'Aid) Barid reigned 45 years, according to
Firishtah. The dates of the reigns of this dynasty are, as seen in
Brigg's translation, involved in inextricable confusion. According to
Grant Duff (vol. i., p. 77) Bidar was annexed to Bijdpur before the
year 1573. The names of the other sovereignswho are said to liave
reigned at Bidar are as follows :

A.D.

4. Ibrahim Barid Shdh 15G2

5. Kdsim Barid Shdh 1569

6. Mlrzd 'All Barid Shdh, deposed by 1572

7. Amir Barid Shdh II 1G09

^A'dil Skald Dynasty of Bijapur,

1. Abii '1 MuzaflPar Yiisuf 'A'dil Shdh, son of 'Aghd Murdd or

Amurath II., of Anatolia 1489

2. Isma'il *Adil Shdh 1511

3. Malii 'Adil Shdh 1534

4. Ibrahim 'A'dil Shdh 1 1535

/>. 'AlI'AdilSUh 1557

^. Ibraliim 'A'dil Shdh II ^^'^^

/. Muhawmad 'Adil Shiih ^^J^^

A 6'uJtdu Sikandar (or 'AH ^Adil Sbdh U.) . . ^ « ^^'^^

Sect, L kizAms of the dakhak. « 65

NiSi&m Shdlii Dynasty of Ahmadnagar, ...

1. A^mad Kizdm Shdh 1-19()

2. Bnrh^ NijE&m 8h4h 1508

3. Hnsam Nij;&m Sh4h 1553

4. Marta?4 Ni3;&m Shdh 15(i5

5. Mirdn Husain Nis^dm Shdh 1588

6. Isma'il Ki^&m Sh4h 1589

7. Burhto Ni^.Am Sh4h II 1590

8. Ibrahim Niz&m Shiih 1594

9. Ahmad ibn ShAh TAhir 1594

10. Bah^ur Ni^&m Shdh n .1595

11. Mnrtazd Ni^dm Shdh II 1598

12. Malik Ambar 1607

Kufb Shdhi Dynasty of Golhonda,

1. Sultdn KuH Kufb Shdh . . 1512

2. Jamshid Kuli' Kutb Shdh 1543

3. Ibrahim Ku|;b Shdh 1550

4. Muliammad Kuli Kutb Shdh 1581

5. 'Abdu'lldh Kutb Shdh Kill

6. Abii Hasan 1672

^Imdd SMhi Dynasty of Birdr, reigning at Elichjmr,

1. Fatl^u 'lldh 'Imdd Shdh Bdhmani 1484

2. 'Aldu *d-din 'Imdd Shdh 1504

3. Daiyd *Imdd Shdh 1528

4. Burhdn 'Imdd Shdh 1560

5. TufaQKhdn 1568

Xi^dms of the Dakhan,

1. MlrKamru'd-dinNisjdmu'lmulk'Asaf-jdh . . .1712—1748

2. Mir Ahmad Khdn Ndsir-jang (killed by the Ni!iwdb of Kadapa)

1748— Dec. 5th, 1750

3. Hiddyat Mahiu 'd-din Khdn Mu?;affar-jang . . . .

Dec. 5th, 1750, to Jan. 30th, 1751

4. Saldbat-jang (see Hadikah, p. 440, 1. 10), Nov. 1751, died,

2Gth Jan. 1763

5. Nizdm 'Ali Asaf-jdh i Sdni, died at Haidardbad . Aug. 1803

6. Sik5ndar-jdh, died May, 1829 (21st May, 1828, in " Princes of

India," p. 87) 1829

7. Talmait 'All KMn Bahddur Mir Farkhundah * AH Khdn Bahddur

Ndsira 'd-daulah, died May, 1857

8. Afzalu 'd-daulah, died 1869

9. Mir Mahbiib 'Ali Khdn Bahddur Fath Jang Nizdmu 'd-daulah,

Nigdmu'l mulk Now reigning.

Rdjds of Vijayanagar,

Xt jd aiu ............

2. Nanda

3. Bhutanandi

4. Teshanandi ....

5. Nanda, who founded Nandapjir and Warankal . . . \^?^^E.
A Cbal4k . , . Wl^

r, yija^a fowi4ed ViJRjanagav , , , W\^

58 * BijAs OP viJAYANAGAR. Sect. I.

A.D.

8. Vimala rdo 1158

9. Narasinha Deva 1182

10. Rdma Deva 1249

11. Bhiipa raya 1274

12. Bukka 13.S4

13. Harihara rdo 1367

14. Deva rAo 1391

15. Vijayardo 1414

16. Pandara deva r4o, deposed by Shrl Ranga of Kalidndurg . . 1424

17. Rdmachandra rao, sou of Shri Ranga 1450

18. Narasinha rdo . - 1473

19. Vira Narasinha Rdjah 1490

20. Achyuta rdo

21. Krishna deva 1524

22. Rdmah Rdjah, killed by Husain Nizdm Shdh of Ahmadnagdr,

and Daryd 'Imdd Shdh of Birdr

23. Shrl Ranga Rdjah 1565

Trimala Rdjah

Virayangat pati

Shri Ranga pati

Shrl Ranga II

Rdmadeva rdo

Venkatapati rdo

Trimala rdo

Rdmadeva rdo

Shri Ranga rdo . . .

Venkatapati, iled from the Mughuls to Chandraglri . . .
Rdma rdo, recovered part of the territory ....

Haridds 1693

Chak dds, brother of Hari dds 1704

Chimmadds 1721

Rdma rdya 1734

Gopdla rdo, son of Chak dds

Yankatapatl 1741

Trimala rdo, country taken by Haidar 'Ali 1756

Vlra Venkatapati Rdma • 1829

(According to Prinsep's " Antiquities," vol. ii., p. 281, the dynasty
became extinct with this Rdjd in 1829 a.d., but a Rdja of Vijayana-
gar still exists, and has a palace at Anagundi, of which district also
he is Rdjd, though the Niisam's government delay liis recognition
until a family disagreement is settled. In Mr. Lewis Rice's " Gazet-
teer of Maisdr," vol. i., p. 222, note, it is said that Anagundi is a
Kannada name meaning " elephant pit," and that it was the capital
of the Yavanas, who are supposed by some to have been Greeks.)

Rule}'S of Maisur,

In the 1st Vol. of Mr. L. Rice's ** Gazetteer of Maisdr," published

at Bengalur in 1877, will be found the history of several ancient

dynasties who ruled over Maisiir, but of whom little more than the

names is known. The following list oi "Rijaa ia taken, from the

said work, as it is (?3tat>Iislied by iuscriptiona o^nd a^^^Q^oNi^^ \a?\.Q\\^

Sect. I. RAJAS OP nJAYANAOAR. 57

I- Sala Hoysala

2. Vindyaditya

3. Yereyanga, Pereyanga, Vlra Ganga

4. Bitti Deva, Vishnu Varddhana, Tribhuvana ^fallu

5. Vijaya Narasimha, Yira Nnr;isiin!i:i

6. Vlra Ball41a

7. Vira Narasimha . . . . .

^. Soma, Vira Soraeshwar

•'• Vira Narasimha

A.D.
984—1043
1043—1073
1073—1114
1114—1145
114r>— 1188
11S8— 1233
1233— 124l>
1249— 12(W
12t>8— 1308

RoLJ&g of Vijayan^ffar according to Mahtir Gazetteer (y;. 224).

(^Compare lint loxt but one.)

1. Harihara, Hakka, Hariyappa 133G— 1350

2. Bukka, Vira Bukkanna 1350—1379

8. Harihara 1379—1401

^. Deva Baya, Vijaya Raya, Vijaya Bukka . . . . 1401 — 1451

"• Mallikdrjuna, Vira Mallanna, Praudha Devn . . . 1451 — 14(55

^- Virupaksha . . . 1405-1479

7- Narasa, Narasimha . . . . . . . 1479—1487

8- Vira Narsimha, Immadi Narsincra 1487—1508

'•E^a^^i • -^ IS"^-^^*^

Jy« Sada Shiva Raya (Rdma Riljah, usurper till 1505) . . 1542—1573

11. Shri Ranga Rdya 1574—1587

12. Vlra Venkatapati 1587

On the 25th of January, 1565 according to the Maisiir Gaz. voL i.

232 (Grant Duff, vol. i., p. 76, says the battle was fought in 1564,
IpMnstone, p. 413, says 1565), the power of the Vijayanagar king-
^ODi, which tnen comprehended all the South of IndLia, was finally
^roken by the Muhammadan Icings of the Dakhan in the decisive
^ttle of Talikota, 10 m. S. of the Krishiia river, and near Rdichur.
^ma Rtljah was slain after the battle and Vijayanagar was plun-
dered for 6 months. Tirumala Rdjah, brother of Rdma, movetl to
^nkonda, and Venkatddii, another brother, established himself at
^andragiri. Grants in the name of Sada Siva were continued till
j^573, and Shrl Ranga his son succeeded him. The 9th in descent
^om him fled from the Muhammadans to Chandragiri, and from one
of his descendants, Shri Ranga Raya, the English obtained the grant
?J Madras in 1640. In 1646 Chandragiri and Chengalpatt were taken
from him by the army of the King of Golkonda, and he fled to Bedniir,
tne Rdja oi which place gave Mm Sakraypatna. A member of tlie
lamily^ however, settled at Anagundi and continued the line till 1776,
(when Tipii annexed the country,) and even down to this time.

Present Dynasty of Maisiir,

!• Vijaya, a Kshatriya of the Yddava tribe, native of A.D.

Dwdrka in Kdthiawdd 1399—1422

2. Hire Bettada Chdma Rdjah 1423—1457

3. Tunma Rdjah \^^%— VVll

4. Chdma Bdjah, 'A'r-beml or C-fingered .... l^l^i^— VoVI

^' Bettada Chdma Rdjah .... . . \^\^— \^v>\

p^ HirQ Chdma lidjah, BOl, or the I5ald \^1\— \vA^

58 xiJwABs OP THE kabnAtik. • Sect. I.

7. Bettada Wodeyar or Odeyar (pi. of Odeya, Kannadafor A.I>.

« lord ") ■ . . ' 1576—1677

. 1578—1617

. 1617—1636

. 1637—1638

. 1638—1658

. 1659—1672

. 1672—1704

. 1704—1714

. 1714—1731

8. Rdjah Wodeyar .

9. Chdma Kdjali

10. Immadl RAjah or Second Rdjah

11. Kanthirava Narasa Rdjah ....

12. Dodda Deva Rdjah

13. Chikka Deva Rdjah

14. Kanthirava Rdjah, Miik-arasu or " Dumb King "

15. Dodda Kyishna Rdjah

16. ChdmaRdjah,'deposedbytheDalavdyi(General)DevaRajahl731— 1734
" - - - . 1734—1766

. 1761—1782
. 1782—1799

17. Chikka, or Immadi Krishna Rdjah

Usurpers. {^,;^txlZ^^'!

18. Krishna Rdjah Wodevar, made Rdjah by the English . 1799—1868

19. Chdma Rdjendra Wodeyar 1868-

Nmvdhs of the Karn&tih.
The Niiwdbs of the Kamdtik were properly only Lieutenant-
Governors of the province under the Nizams of the Dakhan, until
French and English influence made them, for a time, nominally in-
dependent and then pensioners. . _.

1. Ddiid Khdn Panl, made Niiwdb of Arkdt by Zil'lfakdr Khdn . 1698

2. S'a'adatu'Udh, a Nawdit of Arab extraction (on his tomb is

inscribed A.H. 1148) first took the title of Niiwdb of the
Kamdtik 1708—1733

3. Dost *Ali, nephew of S'a'adatu'Udh, killed by the Mardthas at

the Ddmalcheri Pass 20th May, 1740

4. Saffdar 'AH, son of Dost 'All, murdered . . . 2nd Oct. 1742

5. Murtazd 'All, nephew of Dost 'All, and his son-in-law, expelled

by the soldiers after a few days .... Oct. 1742

6. Khwdjah'Abdu'Udh Khdn, appointed by the Nizdm, died, March 1744

7. Anwaru 'd-dln Khdn, appointed by the Nizdm, see Hadlkatu

'l-'Alam, p. 460, line 7, where the words are ba sUbahdari i
Anjd sarfardz farmiid (according to Orme to act as Regent
for Saiyid Muhammad, son of Saffdar 'Ali), and killed by
the French, Chandd Sdhib and Mu^affar-jang, at Ambiir,
30 m. S. of Ddmalcheri * 23rd July, 1744

8. Saiyid Muhammad Khdn, son of Saffdar 'All, murdered by

Pathdns ....*.... June, 1749

9. Husain 'Ali (Hadlkatu '1 'Alam, p. 392, 1. 2) Khdn, known as

Chandd §dhib, appointed by Muzaffar-jang in July, 1749,
and beheaded by order of Manikji, General of the Tanjilrine
army June, 1752

10. Muhammad 'All, styled Wdld-jdh, second son of Anvaru 'd-dln

(MiU, vol. vi., p. 56), dies aged 78 on . . . 13th Oct. 1795

11. 'Umdatu '1-umard (Pillar of Nobles), son of Muhammad 'All

(Mill, vol. vi., p. 332), died .... 15th July, 1801

12. 'All Qusain, eldest son of 'Umdatu '1-umard, deposed by the

E. I. Company (see Mill, vol. vi., p. 341) . . 19th July, 1801

13. 'A'zlmu 'd-daulah, son of Amiru'l-umard, delivers over the

groremment of the Kamdtik to the English by treaty,
{MjII vol. vi., p. 343) 19th July, 1819

//' ^^i^ Jdb, son of 'A'zimu 'd-daulah

J^, GhuJ4m Muhammad Ghaus Khdn , , , . > ^ \'^^^

Sect. I. PAKDTAK RINGS. 69

1. Veukajl,

2. Ekojl, 1676.
8. Sh4hjl, 1684.
4. Sharfoji, 1711.
6. Tukoji, 1729.

Mard^ha Dynasty of TanjUr,

6. Bdbii Sdhib, 1736. 10. Aman Singh, 1765

7. Sijdi Bdi, widow of -1788, deposed by
BdbA Sdhib, 1737. the British.

8. Pratdp Singh, 1741. 11. Sharfojt 1798.

9. Tuljafi, 1705. 12. Sivaji, 1833-1863.

13. The present Rdiil.

The extreme S. of India, that is, the pail; southward of lat. 12**, was
anciently divided into 4 provinces, of which Kerala was that below
the Ghdts, with which we are not at present concenied. Above the
Ghdts ascending from Cape Kumdri (Comorin) there was first the
kingdom of Pdndya, which was bounded to the N. by the r.
Vdyur or Vaygar, according to Professor Dowson (Joum. R. As. Soc,
vol. viii.,.p. 14), or according to Wilks (vol. i., p. 8) by a line 60 m.to
the E., passing through Kan'ir, which is 50 m. W. of Tricliinu|>alli.
The most ancient capital of this country was Kurhhi (said by Wilson
to be the Kolkhi of the Periplus), of uncertain site. After Kurkhi,
Madura became the chief city, having been founded somewhere about
the end of the 4th century B.c. (see Nelson's " Gazetteer of Madura,"
Pt. III., p. 45). The city of Madura is without doubt of great
antiquity, as it is spoken of by Ptolemy, and is mentioned in the
Periplus, w^here Cape Kumdri and other localities are said to be
under King Pandion, xmb top ^a-iX^a UavBiova, This cames us back /
to 139 — 161 A.D., the time of Ptolemy's writings, and to 600 B.C., that 51
of the Periplus. Mr. Nelson (Pt. lit., p. 46, " Gazetteer of Madura ") j^
thinks it safe to place the foundation of Madura at the beginning oi /u
the 1st century B.C., but Wilson (Joum. R. As. Soc, vol. iii., p. 202) ft^
says, " We may conjecture the appearance of the Pdndya principality
as an organised state, and the foundation of Madmu to have happened
about 5 or 6 centuries anterior to the Christian era." The site of the
capital has probably been shifted more than once — thus Old Madura
is on the N. bank of the Vaygdi* or Vaigai, and about a m. from the
present city, which is on the S. bank. A few m. to the E. are the
ruins of another ancient city, Manaliir, which may once have been
the capital. Boimding Pdndya to the N.W. was the kingdom of
Chera, and to the N.E. that of Chola, which latter extended north-
ward to the Penndr or S. Pinakini r., and had for its capital fii'st
Uriur, perhaps the Orthoura of Ptolemy, then Kumbhakonam, and
lastly Tanjiir. Chera touched the Chola country and the Pdndyan at
Kdriir, and extended N. to the present frontier of Maisiir, and reached
Trichengod on the E. Its capitals were, first Skandapura, of un-
certain site, and then Dalavanpura, or Tdlakad, on the N. bank of
the Kdv^ri, 30 m. E. of Seringapatam, more properly Shrlrangpatnam.
According to the Madhura Sthala Purdnd, the 1st Chera king was
contemporary with the 4th of the Pdndyan dynasty, Ugra P£idya,
who is said to have married the daughter of Soma Shekhara, a Cholan
king, who is said to have been of the Surya or Solar Race, so that the
3 dynasties seem to have been founded Avit\vm aViOvxX. ^ ^i^TtoxTj ^1 ^-wi.
another. The local Parana, or cliTomeVe ol "^sAxjcc^, ^m^^ "^^

following list of the 1st Pdndyan d\n^?ty ^e^\7C^^V^i\ \t<^\sv l^^ss.^s^'?^

{jrH^etteeTj i—=

60 PANDYAN KINGS. Sect. I.

1. Kula Shekhara (Ornament of the race) Pdndya.

2. Malaya Dhwaja (Flag of the Malaya country),
8. Sundara (Beautiful).

4. Ugra (Terrible), also called Hdradh^ri (Wearer of the Hdxa or breast-
plate).
6. Vlra (Hero).

6. Abhisheka (Anointed).

7. Vikrama (Valiant).

8. Rdjah Shekhara (Ornament of kings).

9. Kulottanga (Greatest of the race).

10. Anantaguna (Of countless virtues).

11. Kulabhushana (Race-adorning).

12. Rdjendra (Lord of Lords).

13. Ildj6sha (Lord of Lords).

14. Kdjagambhira (Majestic king).

15. Pdndya Vanisha Pradlpa (Lamp of the Pdndya family).
10. Punihuta (Much- worshipped).

17. Pdndya Vanisha Patdka (Banner of the Pandya family or clan).

18. Sundaresha Pdnda Shekhara (Whose head ornament is the feet of

Shiva).

19. Varaguna (Of excellent virtues).

20. Bdjah Rdjah (King of kings).
'21. Suguna (Virtuous).

22. Chitra Vrata (Of wondrous vows).

23. Chitra Bhushana (Wondrously decked).

24. Chitra Dhwaja (Of the wondrous banner).

25. Chitra Varma (Of wondrous armour).
2(5. Chitra Sena (Of wondrous hosts).

27. Chitra Vikrama (Of wondrous courage).

28. Rdjah MdrtAnda (Sun of kings).

29. Rdjah Chiiddmani (Chief gem of kings).

30. Rdjah Shdrdilla (Tiger among kings).

31. Dwlja Rajah Kulottanga (Exalter of the Soma race).

32. Ayudha Pravlna (Skilled in the use of arms).

33. Rdjah Kunjara (Excellent king).

34. Para Rdjah Bhyankara (Alarmer of foreign kings).

35. Ugrasena (Whose army is terrible).

36. Mahdsena (Whose army is great).

37. Shatrunjaya (Conqueror of foes).

38. Bhlmaratha (Of terrible chariot).

39. Bhlmaparakkrama (Of terrible prowess).

40. Pratdpa Mdrttdnda (Of sunlike majesty).

41. Vikrama Kanchuka (Mailed with valour).

42. Yuddha Koldhala (Din of war).

43. Atula Vikrama (Of peerless valour).

44. Atula Viirti (Of matchless fame).

45. Klrtl Vibhushana (Decked with renown).

46. Vanishd Shekhara (Ornament of the clan).

47. Vanishd Childdmani, or Champaka (Chief gem of the race, or

Jasmine).

48. Prdtdpa Surasena (Heroic Sursen).
49. Vanisha Dhwaja (Banner of the clan).

^O. Bjpu Mardajia (Grinder of enemies).
^J. Chola Vanishdntaka, (Destroyer ot the CYiola. xace^),
^^f Cbora Vanishf^ntaka (Destroyer otthe CU^xax^eT),

Sect. I. PANDYAN KINGS. 61

o3. Pindya Vanishesha (Lord of the Pandya race).

54. Vanidia Shiromani (Chief gem of the race).

55. P4ndy^8hwara (Lord of the PAndyas).

56. Kula Dhwaja (Banner of the clan).

57. Vanisha Vibhiishana (Ornament of the race).

58. Soma Chi^dimani (Crested with the moon).

59. Kula Chiid4manl (Diadem of the clan).
fiO. Hajah Chiidamani (Chief gem of kings).

61. Bhiipa ChMdmani (Chief gem of moiiarchs).

62. Kul^sha (Lord of the clan).

63. Arlmardana (Crusher of foes).

64. Jaganndtha (Lord of the world).

65. Vlrabahu (Hero-armed).

66. Viirama (Valiant).

67. Surabhi (Cow of plenty).

68. Kunkuma (Red powdered).

69. Karpura (Camphorated).

70. Kirunya (Merciful).
J J* I^urushottama (Best of men).
Jj* ShatrushAsama (Punisher of foes).
'3. Kubja (Hunchback).

The 73rd king was a hunchback, as the name implies, but he was
^^.^e straight and beautiful by Gnyanasambandha Miirti, a form of
^wva, and was then called Sundara (beautiful), but he is usually
%led in Tamil, Kun or Kiina Pdndya=" The Hunchback Pandya.^'
, The 64 miracles of Shiva told in the local Purdna do not deserve to
^ recounted. Suffice it to say that in the 3rd story, Madura, prop.
|jladluira,is said to have had its name from the ambrosial drops (Madhu,
sweet "), which Shiva shook from his hair over the buildmgs. The
^wi story relates to the marriage of Shiva, of which there is a carving in
^6 temple, and to his being crowned King of Madhura as Sundara
^dndya. The 6th relates how Shiva, who used to dance at Chedam-
Jara, vouchsafed to exhibit in the Silver Hall at Madhura, keeping
Jis left leg straight up above hi s head. The 1 2th relates the marriage of
JJgra Pandya with the daughter of the Chola king. Soma Shekliara.
The 22nd recounts how the Chola king of Kanchi (Conjeveram)
endeavoured to introduce the Shapana heresy into Madhura, and
foiled. The 24th relates how the pious King Vikrama, compassiona-
ting Shiva for dancing so long on his right leg, got him to change to
his left. The 26th explains how a Brahman of Avantipura was for-
given for killing his father, and committing incest with his mother,
hy adoring the Linga, and performing certain penances. Tlie 45th
story relates the transformation of 12 brothers into pigs for mocking
a samtly man, and how Rajah Rajah Pdndya slew the parents of the
hrood, and how Shiva changed himself into a sow, and suckled them,
and then restored them to human form with pigs* faces. This story \
is carved over one gate of the Great Pagoda. This may suffice as a
specimen of the contents of the book, which is only interesting as
affording a key to many of the paintings and carvings in the Temple*

Kubja, the hunchbacked Pindya, afterwards csAie.^ ^\3LW<\axa..^

oongaered the 34th Chola king, biuiit Uriur and Taiv^\\T,3Ctv^\xv«m^^

fhe daughter of Karikah Chola, ^yho persecuted the ce\e\)Tvx\-^^lSSxA^

62 PANDYAN KINGS. Sect. I.

reformer Riimaniija Acliarya. As this teacher flourished in the 12th
century (see Census of 1871, p. 122), it is difficult to reconcile with
that fact the chronology of the 1st dynasty of P^ndyas, which is thus
arrived at. The 2nd dynasty of 40 kings ended with Parakrama in
1324 A.D., and reigned 628 yeai-s. Consequently the last king of the
1st dynasty, Kuhja or Sundara, must have closed his rei^ in 699 A.D.,
which is 400 years before the appearance of Ram^nuja. It would
occupy too much space to go into tliis question here, and it must
suffice to give the names of the 2nd dynasty, which are as follows : —

1. Soma Sundara Pdndya (Beautiful as the moon), A.D. 699.

2. Karpiira Sundara Pdndya (Beautiful as camphor).

3. Kumdra Shekhara Pdndya (Crested with Subrahmanya).

4. Kumdra Sundara Pdndya (Beautiful as Subrahmanya).
6. Sundara Rdjah Pdndya (Fair king).

6. Shanmukha Edjah Pdndya (The six-faced king ; epithet of Shiva).

7. Meru Sundara Pdndya (Beautiful as Meru).

8. Indra Varma Pdndya (Armoured like Indra).

9. Chandra Kula Dlpa Pdndya (Lamp of the lunar race).

10. Mina Eetana Pdndya (Pdndya of the fish banner).

11. Mina Dhwaja Pdndya (Same as preceding).

12. Makara Dhwaja Pdndya (Pdndya of the alligator flag).

13. Mdrtdnda Pdndya (Pdndya like the sun).

14. Kuralagdnanda Pdndya (Pdndya of the abode of water lilies).

15. Eundala Pdndya (Earring-wearing Pdndya).

10. Shatru Bhlkara Pdndya (Pdndya, terrifier of foes).

17. Shatru Samhdra Pdndya (Pdndya, destroyer of foes).

18. Vira Varma Pdndya (Pdndya, of the hero's armour).

19. Vlra Bahu Pdndya (Pdndya, of the heroic arm).

20. Makuta Varddhana Pdndya (Enlarger of the diadem).

21. Vajra Simha Pdndya (Lion resembling the thunderbolt).

22. Varuna Kulottanga Pdndya (Exalter of the Varuna clan).

23. Adi-Vira-Rdma Pdndya (First of heroes, Edma Pdndya).

24. Kula Vardhana Pdndya (Exalter of the clan).

25. Soma Shekhara Pdndya (Moon-crested Pdndya).

20. Soma Sundara Pdndya (Pdndya, lovely as the moon).

27. Rajah Rajah Pdndya (Pdndya, king of kings).

28. Rdjah Kunjara Pdndya (Pdndya, elephant amongst kings).

29. Rdjah Shekhara Pdndya (Royal-crested Pdndya).

30. Rdjah Varma Pdndya (Royally armoured Pdndya).

31. Rdma Varuna Pdndya (Pdndya armoured like Rama).

32. Varada Rdjah Pdndya (Boon-giving king).

33. Kumdra Slmha Pdndya (Pdndya the young lion).

34. Vlra Sena Pdndya (Pdndya with the heroic army).

35. Prdtdpa Rdjah Pdndya (Pdndya the majestic king).
86. Viraguna Pdndya (Possessed of heroic virtues).

37. Kumdra Chandra Pdndya (Pdndya like the young moon).
88. Varatimga Pdndya (Pdndya nobly gifted).

39. Chandra Shekhara Pdndya (Moon-crested Pdndya).

40. Soma Shekhara Pdndya (Moon-crested Pdndya).
42. Pardkrama Pdndya (Puissant Pdndya).

il&; Nelson (Gaz., Pt III., p. 76) leans to Wi^ o^Sxacsw tW. the
Fandyan kin<rdoia >va3 subjected by t\\e lslu\a.iaxas\.vi^\i^ «XiQ>;>J^ >(k'^

Sect. I. PANBYAN KINGS. 63

year lioo A.D., but that the conquest was only transient, for he thinks
that the 10th King Mina KetiUia was con([uered hy tlie Kinj^ of
Ceylon, and that he went to Banaras, and died there 1173 a.d., and
that the 24th King Kula Vawlhana reigned iii 1249, when the
Muhanunadans came and destroyed the temples, leaving, perhaps,
only the adytum. In 1324 a.d. these invaclers came again under
Malik Naib.Kafiir, expelled the King Pardkrama, and left nothing of
the- temples but the shrines of Sundareshwar and Minakshr. The
MusUnis were expelled by a Maisiirean general, Kampana Udaiyiir,
who, and his successors of the sjime stock, ruled tUl 1451, as follows :

1- Kampana Udaiydr A.D. 1372

2. Kmbaaa Udaiydr (his son).

3- Parkasa Udaiydr (brother-in-law of Embana).

^' Lekkina Ndyakkan and Mathanan Ndyakkan, lx)th of

Madura 1404 to H51

Th^n succeeded 4 persons of the old Pdndya stock :

1- Sundara Tol Mahd Vilivdndthi Rdydr.
2* Kdleiydr Somandr.

3. Anjdtha Perumal.

4. Muttarosa Tlrumalei Mahd Vilindndthi Rdvdr.

These were followed by —

Narasa Ndgakka A.D. 1500

Tenna 1515

Narasa Pillei 1515 to 1519

then—

1- Kara Kura Timmappa Ndyakka 1519 to 1524

2. Katteyama Kdmeiya 1624 to 1526

3. Chinnappa 1626 to 1630

4. Tyakarei Veygappa 1530 to 1535

5. Vishwandtha Ndyakkan Ayyar 1536 to 1544

6. Verathappa Ndyakkan . .... 1544 to 1646

7. Dumbicchi Ndyakkan 1645

8. Vittala Rdjah, perhaps the same as Rdma Rdjah of

Bijdnagar, whose name occurs in an inscription round

the garbJui grihu of the Perumal Pagoda at Madura . 1546

Anarchy from 1557 to 1559.

The Ndyalihan- Dynasty,

1. Vishwandtha builds the Fort of Madura, with 72 bastions.

and appoints one chief, or Pdlaiyakdren to be custos of

each, and descendants of these chiefs still remain . . a.d. 1557

2. Knmdra Kpshnappa, or Periya Kri.shnama, conquers

Kandi in Ceylon ........ Dec. 1563

3. Periya Virappa and Vishwandth II \^'\*?»

4. Lingaja and Visrappa, or Yifihwandth III. . . . \^^v>
4; Jfattu Kfijbnappa, in whose reiga Robert de lis o\5\\\\i\x%

preached at Madura, Dec, 1606 \^%

CHERA AND CHOLA KINGS.

Sect. I.

6. Muttu Virappa crowned A.D. 1609

7. Mahd Rdjah Manya Rdjah Shrl Tiriimala Sevari Ndyani

Ayyalu Gdru. Allies himself with Golkonda, is driven
from Chenjl, becomes a dependent of Bljdpiir, rebuilds
and beautifies the pagodas at Madura. Crowned . Jan. 1623

8. Muttu Alakddri, bastard son of Tirumal ; death of Robert

de Nobilibus 1659

9. Choka Natha or Chokappa.

10. Ranga Krishna Muttu Virappa 1682

11. The Queen Manganmal regent 1082 to 1705

12. Vijaya Ranga Choka Ndtha 1705

13. The Queen Mindkshi 1731

14. Chandd Sdhib 1736

The following, is a list of Cliera Kings from the Vamsavali (see
Wilson's M*Kenzie Catalogue, vol. ii., p. 128). It follows a list of 30
Rdjahs who are said to have ruled in the fabulous ages :

1. Anstaya Panttora Cheran.

2. Yananthe Panttora Cheran.

3. Vamsa Paripanlika Panttora

Cheran.

4. Mangalakdma Panttora Cheran.

5. Sivadharma Mottark.

6. Sllana.

7. Sivapava.

8. Sindhu Lanranega.

9. Yalavajana Samrastaka.
10. Tlrka Ydttdra.

11. Tirtha Chatta Cheran.

12. Achyuta Pratdpa.

13. Akondita Krlti Pratdpa.

14. Vira Rdjendra.

15. Bhiimeshwara.

16. Nirumala Sakdra.

17. Panjdstara.

18. Jlva Patdka.

19. Tirumanja.

20. Kaildsatta Adanga.

In the same authority 48 Cholas are said to have ruled in tlie
fabulous ages, and the following 18 afterwards : —

1. Pundarik Cholan.

2. Nllama Chamala vama.

3. Ddnavardri.

4. Bhiiparam Titta.

5. Puvel Vanda.

6. Panna Sabhiya Kara.

7. Paura Kuramma.

8. Manumili Yetta.

9. Chantra Kulddi.

10. Sansdra Chiiddmani Cholan.

11. Ndgalogam Konda.

12. Adakeshwara.

13. Kankdpdtarumen.

14. Kankudamaiii.

15. Wutturokd.

16. Satturu Staya.

17. Krlmlkatta.

18. Kdnpraya.

Complete lists of these kings, with the proper dates, are still a
desideratum, and can be prepai-ed only when many more inscriptions
have been deciphered and translated.

The following list of Kadamba Kings, who reigned over N. and S.

Kanara andW. Maisiir, is given by Mr. Lewis Rice in his "Gazetteer

of Mnisur " (vol. i., p. 195). Their cajntal was Banavasl, on the

2'jver Varadiif on the W, boundary of the Sordb district in lat. 14° 40',

Jon<r, 75° 10'^ about 25 m. N,W. of tlie celtibiaUOi G^x^e^^vy.'^^^.* It

Js mentioned by Ptohmy,

Sbct.^

1* Xrinetra Eadamba, 150 A.D.

2. Madhukeshvara.

3. Mallindlha.

4. Chandra Yarmma.
fi* Ghanda Yarmma.

6. Maji!d^ Yarmma.

7. Kri^^a Yarmma, 400 A.D.
S* K^ga Yarmma.

?* Vishnu Yarmma»
10. Mriga Yannma,
n. Satya Yarmma.

12. Vijaya Yarmma^

13. Jaya Yarmma.

14. Niga Yarmma.

15. S4nta Yarmma,

CHERA AND CHOLA KINGS,

10. Klrtti Yarmma.

17. Aditya Yarmma.

18. Bhattaya Yannma»

10. Jaya Yarmma. [A.D,

20. Mayiira Yarmma, 1034—1044

Tailapa, 1064 A.D.

Tailapa II., 1077—1108.

Nami» BMpa Permadu

Sdnti Yarmma.

Kirtti Y., 1068 A.D. ?

Purandhara Raya, 1121 A«P. ?

Taila, 1157.

Karua.

Sovi or Somesbwara.

Ylra Malli, 1241—1251.

Of uncei-tain date are Kdkustlia Vamima, Santi V., Mfigesha,
Bfivi Yarmma, Bhdnu Yamima, Shiva-ratha and Hari Yarmma.

According to Wilson, the last of 74 kings was Shankara Deva —
1336 A.D, In tliat year the kingdom of Bijdnagar was founded, and
the Kadamba grants of land ceased. The capital of the Kadambas
^&8 transferred from Banavasi to Goa, Their insignia was the
monkey flag, and lion signet.

Kings of the Kongudesha, supposed to be Cheras, ruling over the
extreme S. of Malabfi, with Waindd, the Nllgiris, S. Koimbatiir and
pMl; of Tinnevelli. This region being the Carura Regia Cerebothri of
Ptolemy. Their capital was Skandapurd, in about lat. 11^ 40*, long,
77", Their seal had the device of an elephant. For the list see
Gaz. of Lewis Rice, 198.

1. Vlra Baya ChakravaTtti, A.D,

2. Govinda Raya.
. 3> Krishna Raya.

4. Kali Yallabha Raya

6. GoTinda Raya . . . ... . . , 83

6. Chaturbhuja Kanara Deva Chakravartti.

7. Shri Yikrama Deva Chakravartti 178—188

5. Kongani Yarmma Dharmma Mah^ldhiraja . . . . 188 — ^239
9' M&dhava Mahidhirdja « 239

10. Hari Yarmma 247—288

11. Vishnu Gopa

12. MAdhava 425

13. Kongani . . 425—478

H. Avmita Durvinita or Kongani Yriddlia 478—513.

15. Mushkara Raya ,.'...,,.,

16. Shri Yikrama 539

17. Bhu Yikrama Raya .......

18. Vilanda, RAjah Shrf YallabhAkya

19. Kava K^ma, R4jah Gk>vinda Raya .....

20. Sivaga Kongani Mahdrdjah • 668

21. Bhlma Kopa . , , , . .

5. B^ah Keshari ,

^' ^^'^'^on^am Mabddbir^ja 'IlO-ail

U Bdjab MAUg Deva Bartk . ,

66 eHEBA AND C^OLA KINGS. Seot, I,

A;D.

25. Ganda Deva Mahdrdya . . . . . ; ;

26. Satya Vdkya Kongani Yarmma Dhanntna Mahddhirdja . 857

27. Gunalottam Deva Raya , . , . . . .

28. Malla Deva Raya ; . 878—894

Qo/ngamsu Kongull Varnuna JUharnwia MaJidrdjadhiraja Chdlukyas,

The boar was the emblem on their signet, &nd their insignia
included the peacock fan, the ankusha or elephaht goad, a golden
sceptre, etc.

1. Jaya Simha

2. Buddha Yarmma, Rdjah Simha or Rdna Rdjah . . .

3. Yijaya Rdjah or Yijydditya . . . . . . 472

4. Pulakesi 489

5. Klrtti Yarmma

6. Mangalisa 566—578

At the beginning of the 7th century a.d., the Chdlukyas separated
into two branches, the W. remaining at Kalydna as their capital,
and E. making Vengi, taken from the Balldras, their chief city.

Western Ch&luhyas,

7. Satydsraya Pulakesi 585

, 8. Amara

9. Aditya Yarmma

10. Yikramaditya 592

11. Yinaydditya, Satydsraya or Yuddha Malla ... 680—695

12. Yijaydditya 695— 7?3

13. Yikramdditya 733

14. Eirtti Yarmma

15. Kirtti Yarmma II 799

16. Tailapa

17. Bhlma Rdjah . .

18. Aj[ya Klrtti Yarmma • . .

19. Yijaydditya ...... ...

Cliola Kings reigning in the ^. ofMaisur,

1. Aditya Yarma Rdjendra Chola . . . . . . 867—927

2. Ylra Chola, Ndrdyana Raya . . , . . , . 927—977

3. Dasoditya Raya ....,.;.

4. Parandaka Raya Hari Mdli

5. pivya Raya or Deva Rdjah Chola ..."..

6. Harivari Deva or Tribhuvana Ylra Deva Chola . . • 986—1023

Hoy mid BaUdlas, with tJie tiger as their crest,

1, Sftia Hoysala ....;.... 984—1043

^, tiaayMitya . . . .' .' / ; . . 1043—1073

, A Yereyanga, PereyaDgAf Ylra Qanga . , ; , • 1073—1114

/. B/fpi J^ra, Fishnu Varddhana, TribhuwauaU«\\tti * . WW— \\V5

^' ^V«r« NaraeimbA, Tiro Narasimhaf • ; ^ % \\VV«\\^

Sect I. TABLES OF MONET, 67

A.D.

6. Ylia BaU'dla 1188—1233

7. Vira Narasimha 1233—1249

8. Soma Vira Someshvora 1249— 12<»8

9. Vira Narasimha 1 208— 1308

Yddavas, witJi tlie fierier of a gohlen gan'dii,

.1; Ballam BhiUama 1188—1193

2. Jaytnga, Jajtugi, Jaitpala 1 193 — 1210

3. Simhana or Singhana •. ; 1210—1248

4. Eandaia, Kanhara, Krishna 1248—1260

6. Mahadeva 1260—1271

6. RAmachandra, Shri Rdma 1271—1310

7, Shankara 1310—1312

TABLES OF MONEY.

In 1818 the silver rupee (properly Rtipiyali) wa.s made the standard
coin, it being fixed to contain 165 ^^ins of pure silver and 15 of alloy.
Before that date accounts ih Modi-as Were' kept in star pagodas (calleiL
in S. India Mn), which = 42 fanams » 3360 cash = 3^ of the
common rupees. Or 20 kdsu (corruptly cash, a siuall copper coin) or
20 cowries, a small shell, the Cypraa rtwnetn = 1 gundha, 4 gundhas
= 1 panama (corruptly fanarn), 42 panamas = 1 h^n or vardhc^
The Mn was 19^ carats fine, and intrinsically worth *ts, 5^d,

Coins now in Use.

8 Pie « 1 Paisd =^ J of a farthing.
4 False = 1 6,n& = 1 ^d.

16 dne = 1 Kupee =2«. before the depreciation of silver,

now equal about 1*. 7^^.
15 Bupccs B 1 gold muhr of Company's coinage.

The gold wii^r contains 165 grains of pure gold and 15 of alloy, or
}} of pure metal and ^ of alloy. Tlie vaisd, a copper coin, weighs
100 grains Troy. The uiameters of the silver coins are fixed at 1^ in.
for the rupee, ^ of an in. for the J rupee, j of an in. for the 4 dnd
piece or J rupee.

Paper-money in 1 -rupee, 5-rupee, lO-rupee, up to ICXXI-rupee notes
ue current, but Bombay notes are not accepted without a slight
discount in Bengal, and vice versd. The Indians are expert. at
manufacturing base money, and go so far as to extract all the mterior
of a rupee, filling up the vacuity with lead. It is necessary, there-
fore, to be very careful in changing money or notes. Specmiens of
hue coin have been collected at the Mints. Accoimts were formerly
kept in Sikka rupees (Sikka simply means " coin*'^, "wYos^ '««»
more YaHnahle than common rupees. 100,000 rs. are C8i\l<^ a^ IAtkel
"^atrapdy lac), and 10,000,000 m are called a fcror oi toot CitQm«»*
mf9p'earruptly crare), '

68 WEIGHTS AND MEASURES— CASTES. ScCt, I,

. . TABLES OF WEIGHTS AND MEASURES.

Madras Commercial Weights,

1 star pagoda = 52.4 grains.

10 gold star pagodas = 1 pdlam (corruptly j[;<?//m7«) = IJ oz. Troy.

8 pdlam = 1 s6r = 10 oz,

5 s6r =s 1 vis » 3 lbs. 2 oz.

8 vis =r 1 man = 25 lbs.
20 man = 1 khandi = 500 lbs.

Malahar Weights,

162i grains = 1 pAlam.

24 pdlam = 1 s^r*

5 ser = 1 vis.

8 vis «s 1 tolam.

Madras Measures of Capacity.

Cylindric,
I>ry Measnrc» Depth and diameter inside in

inches and tenths.
1 olak (corruptly ollock) • , . , . 2.5154

8 olak = 1 measure 5.0308

8 measures = 1 markdl in Tamil, tiimd in Telugu 10.0616
5 markdl « 1 phard (corruptly ^«rm/t) , , 17.2050
400 phard = garishah (corruptly garoe) = 17^ Winchester quarters.
The garishahs of rice or com = 320 lbs.
The garishah of salt = 9,256 lbs. av., or 4 tons, 2 cwt. 72 lbs.

I/iqnid Measure. Depth and Diameter.

8 olaks = 1 padi . . . . . . 5.0308

8 padi ^ 1 markdl 10.0616

20 m'arkdls = 1 khandi . . . . . 17.2050 » 64 gallons.

Land Measure,

60 ft. long and 40 ft, broad = 1 ground or mdni = 2,400 sq. ft.

24 grounds = 1 kAni = 57,600 sq. ft.
The KAni is to the English acre as 1 to 1.3223, -

Cloth Measure,

1!)iQ'hyM for cloth measure is 18 in., but the English yaid is
generally used.

CASTES IN THE MABBAS PBE8IDENCY.

" The most plausible theory in regard to caste, is that the three

' twice-born ' castes (in the table given below) are the representatives

of the Aryans of the Rig Veda, while the Shudras, who form the

mass of the people, represent the aborigines, or Turanian settlers of

the pre-Aryan era" (Madras Census, p. 119). Below them are the

outcastes, who partij represent tlie abonginesjportly have arisen from

a mixture of tne castes. Thus loweet oi 8SL\&)i)cACS^«CL^i^^ho

2> ^e ojg&pnng of a Shndza man and Br^lbrnttul 'y^oTOAXi^ \o ^"W:^

Sect t CASTES IN THE MADRAS PRESIDENCY. 69

food may be given in potsherds, but not by the hand of the giver,"
who must dress in the clothing of the dead, and whose sole wealth
must be dogs and asses. As caste arose from the aversion of the
Aryans to mix with the aborigines, so "out-ca*»te" arose from the
desire of the Brdhmans, Kshatriyas, and Traders to keep their
women to themselves. Caste in Sky. is varruiy " colour," and the
J3r,ihmans are said to be white, the Kshatriyas red, the A'^aisyas
yellow or brown, and the Shudnis black.

1. Brdhmans j

2. Kshatriyas > Twice-born or Aryans.

3. Vaisyas, Vnnikas, or Traders )

4. Shudras.

Suh'Dic'mons of Sliudras,

1. Agriculturists or cultivators of an inferior kind.

2. Shepherds.

3. Artisans.

4. Writers and accountants.
6, Weavers.

6. Servile cultivators.

7. Potters.

8. Mixed castes employed in temple worsliip.

9. Fishermen and hunters.

10. Tddi drawers, who extract the juice of palms.

11. Barbers.

12. Washermen.

13. Representatives of aborigines not regarded as out-castcs.

In S. India there is a further division of Hindd castes into Va-
im^dy "right-hand,'' and Idangeiy "left-hand." The Vadangei claim
to ride on horseback in processions, with banners bearing certain
tlevices, to sustain their marriage-booths with 12 pillars ; while the
Idan<,'ei may have only 11 pillars. The origin of this curious caste
f (limon is lost in obscurity.

The worshippers of Vishnu are divided into Tengalas or Southerners,
and Vadagalas or Northerners. The Tengalas follow the teaching of
Mahavdla Maniimi or Rilmyaja Matri, and the Vadagalas that of
Vedantdchdri or Vedanta Da^ika, both of whom were pupils of
Ramdnujdcharj'a. These sects eat together and intermarry', but
JtMurel fiercely. The Vadagalas draw the religious marks on the i
forehead, which in their case represent a trident, from the hair to
the nose between the eyes ; and the Tengalas prolong the middle
line to the middle of the nose.

S. India gave birth to the two greatest Hindd reformers, to
Shankar Acharya, a Shivite teacher, who was born at Kranganiir in
Malabdr, or, according to some, at Chedambram in S. Arkdt. He
lived in the 9th cent., and died in the Himalayas, aged 32. The
other reformer was Ramdnuja, bom at Stripermatiir near Madras^
in the 11th cent He wrested the great temple of Tm\^a\i^avw ^\vi.
mniuppers of Shiva, and established 700 niatluiy ox Te\i^av^\\ow»fe^
A (be mb cent arose also in S.W. India, Basava, the ioww^^^ ^l>^^^

70 CASTES IN THE MADRAS PRESIDENCY. Sect. Ij

sect of tlie Lingdyats, wlio worsliip Shiva in the shape of the lingam,
which must always be carried about by its disciples, and is, there-
fore, called Jangam, or " moveable." Basava became rrime Minister
of the State of which Kalydnpur was the capital ; and Dr. Bumell is
of opinion that there was a Cliristian bishop there in the 6th cent.
Chaitanya, a native of Bengal, who died in 1527, introduced the
worship of Krishna into S. India, and his disciples there are called
Satani or Sanatanas. The followers of the Tantras are also to be found
in S. India, and are diWded into Dakshinachdrls, or right-hand
worshippers, and Vdmdehtlris, or left-hand worshippei-s. The former
practise magical rites, and the latter indulge in orgies of the worst
description. They seem to be also called Kanchuliyas, Snake- worsliip
is practised at Vaisarpadi, near Madras. Demon-worship is common
on the W. coast, particularly among the Shdndrs of Tinnevelli. The
Vaisyas or Chettis (from Seth) are distributed as follows : —

1 . KonuitU, who worship the goddess Edmdkshi, and are divided into

100 gotrams or clans.

2. VdniyarSf oil-pressers and dealers, called in Urdu, Telis, in Eanarese,

Ganna, in Telugese, Gdndla Vdndl^,

3^ Velldlai's, or cultivators of a superior rank, like English yeomen.
They call themselves *• Pillai," '• sons of the gods,*' used also by
shepherds.

4. KavarCf also cultivators, a Telugu tribe. A subdivision of this
caste is the Tottiyars, whose wives cohabit with their near rela-
tives and their gurus.

6. The Velamift, ia the Telugu country, are the same as the Velldlars in
the Tamil.

The number of the Velldlar or agricultural castes is 7,826,127.

C. Idaiyars, shepherd and pastoral castes, number 1,730,081 individuals.
8 i^rincipal subdivisions—

1. Uridaiyar.

2. MAttidaiyar*
8. Attidaiyar.
4. Tambidaiyar.

5. Earithdtidaiyar.
G. Tolia.

7. EAtu. ^*

8. Vadugii. i^

and each subdivision has 18 inferior subdivisions. Tlie members of
this caste are generally addressed as Pillei.

7. Artisans or Kamm^lan^ called in Telugese, Pdnchdla, " the five," viz.,

goldsmiths, blacksmiths, coppersmiths, braziers, carpenters, stone-
cutters. These wear the sacred thread and call themselves Vishva
Brdhmans ; they number 785,085 individuals. They arc almost all
Shivitcs, and bury their dead.

8. Writers and accountants, Kanahltansi in Tamil, Kai^imms in Telugu,

number only 107,652 persons, llie village accountants in Eanara
arc called Shamhoy*^ nnd in MalayAlam, Adigdri. 'Xhey are
usually addressed as Pillei.

9. Weavers, Xaikalar, number 1,071,781. The sub-divisions are —

Serin^ar, JSndrar, Saliyar, Seduiiy Silupaw. Itl T^Vvv^ \\\<e.y are
Sa^y, Jeiidrar, Padmay Salay, T/io/cata, I)eaiu{)alu. \\v'^Vot{>.V>ks.>Obl^^

Sect I,

CASTES IK THG MADRAS FRKSIDfiNCT.

are called Jawai, The ^reat bulk worship village deities and demons,
and are professed Shivites. They bury, and the Vaishnavites bum
their dead.

10. Agricultural labourers, VaAAiartf^ These include the Jfaratan and

Kallars (called Collcries by Orme). They were turbulent and
thievish, but hare now settled down to pcaccnblc occupations.
Those of Madura are polyandrists, and a woman is the wife of 10,
8, 6, or 2 husbands.

The Oddars are a Teluga tribe, and are tank-diggers, well-sinkers,
and road-makers, building their huts in bee-hive shape. They are
almost all Vaishnavites, and wear the mark of the tndent on fore-
kead, arms and breast. They eat animal food, especially pork and
field-rats, and drink spirits. A man marries as many wives as he
can ffet They pray to Vishnu, but worship a destroying spirit
called Yellamma.

The Vannias oTPcdlies are the great agricultural labourers of the S.
Before British rule they were slaves to the Vellalar and Brdhman
cultivators, but may now cultivate on their own account The word
Niik is added to their names. They nimiber 3,944,463' persons.
They are practically demon- worshippers.

11. Potters, Knsatem; Pottery exhumed from tombs of Skythians, in

India, is better than that of the present day. They number 250,343
persons. They are mostly Shivites.

12. FiMiermen and hunters, Sembaduven, number 971,837. They are

most numerous in BalUri and Kamul. In Eanarese they are
called Mnkhata, in Telugn, Bei^ta. The fishermen are divided
into Blioi^ JBesta, Chdpalenlam-, PatnAtar^ Magialn, Parava, and
Valaiydn, They marry many wives, eat flesh and fish, and bury
their dead. The Para rat on the Madura and Tinnevelli coasts
are chiefiy Roman Catholics, converted by the Portuguese.

13. Palm cultivators, Shdn^r, number 1,664>862.

l|« Barbers, Amhalton in Tamil, Mangalu in Telugu, number 340,450.
15. Washermen, Vannan, number 524,660, and arc mostly Shivites.

Other Hindu caistes of a low order are : —

2.' ^^^^^'^^^^ } mendicants.

3. Badagarif a cultivating clan

in the Nilgiris.

4. Chd'ttla,

5. IrttJarg^ a hill tribe of the

Nilgiris.

6. Jettii(, boxers and wrestlers.

7. KorAtar9y wandering thieves.

8. KdtdrSy artizans in the ^Jllgiris.
•. Kumariy jungle cultivator^,

JO, ZttM^dt't gipsies carrying salt
and gmin»

11. MnJay&lU, hill-men .

12. Mvtursy tribesof the W. jungles.

13. Paldavar^ jugglers,

14. Pdmhattar^ snake-charmers.

15. Villi t a jungle tribe.

16. Yenddi, a wild tribe on the W.

coast.

17. Bommara, ju^lers.

18. BrinjdHSf grain-carriers*

19. Chenata^ hunters.

20. l>r«i>a?a,huivtwa*

CASTES— SKELilTOK ROUTfiS.

Sect. I.

Mnhanimadans

Are divided into :

1. Lahhmjff,

2. Mdpilalis*

3. Arabs,

4. Shaikhs,

5. Saiyids,

6. JPaihdns,

7. Mughnh.

8. Other Mubammadans.

The Lahhays are the oflfspring of Arabs and Persians and the
women of the country. They number 312,085, and are found mostly
in Madura, Tinnevelli, Trichinapalli and Tanji\r, and ai*e fishermen,
boatmen, sailors and traders. 83.8 per cent, are Sunnis.

The Mdpilalis number ^ a million in Malabar alone. Elsewhere
they are few. They are originally of Arab extraction. In all there
are 612,789 of this sect ; 95 per cent, are Sunnis. They speak
Malayalam, but write it in the Arabic character. The Arabs number
2,121, the Shaikhs 511,112, the Saivids 89,219, the Pathans 70,943,
the Mughuls 12,407.

SKELETON ROUTES.
Route 1. — To Visit tlw principal Pagodas,

From

Railway or

To OTHER CaRRIAQE.

Miles.

Time.

Expense.

Madras . .
Yirod . . .

Yirod . . « Madras Ry. «

Tricldndpalli . . South I. Ry. .

Here see Shri Rangam and Jam-

bukeshwar P., lor which arc

required . « . . .

243

• •

h. m.
12 40
16 23

Rs. an.

3 12

Trichiiulpalli .

TaiyAr . . . South I. Ry. .
Here visit the Great Pagoda and
stop

• •

1 45
. 24

1 4

Tai\ji\r • . .

Kumbhakonam . South I. Ry. .
Here stop 24 hours to see the
pagodas

2
• 24

Kumbhakonam .

Anaikarai Chat*
tram.

Anaikarai Chat* South I. Ry. .

tram.
Cliedambaram . . Cart

Here stop 24 hours to see i>agoda

37J
3

• •

1
. 24

1 6

Chedambaram . .

Anaikarai Cliat-

tram.
TUi^Jtir .
Trichinapalli . .

Anaikarai Chat< Cart . . .

tram.
TaHjfir : ... South I. Ry. . .

TrichinApalli . . South I. Ry. .

Madura. . . South I. Ry. .

Stop 24 hours to sec temple here

3
6U

31
96

5 8

1 45

6 55
. 24

2 10

1 6
4 0-

Madura .

Maniachi . . .
Tutikorin
Madura . .

Maniachi , . . Soutli I. Ry. .
Tutikorin . . Soutlr I. Ryi .
Hameshwarara, or Boat
llauinM and RA- Cart . . .

meshwaram.
Stop hero ad liours to see pagoda.

Total

Return to Madras . • .

Grand Tottvl .

61 + 12

5 67

1 18

4 6

864}

D. 9 4 51
3

66 -7
41 6

VA^

T).l'i\b\

VTi \i

Sect. L

LANGUAGES OF S. INDIA;

KouTB 2.— To Tislt tlw Ckvesand RocJt-nit Jcmjfl^s and Iluined Cajf'ttals

of the Da khan.

Railway or
From To othkr Miles.

cosveyakce.
Ifadras . . Mahamalaipuram . Bout ... 20

Stop 24 hours to see en ves and caniugs
Mahamalaipnraiu Madras . . . Boat ... 2()
Madras . . . Btf{ehur . . . Madras By. . . :{50

Stop at BdichAr 24 hours to s«« ruins

and fort

RaichAr « . Kalbargah . . Madras By. and 89

G.I. P. By.
Stop at Kalhargah 24 hours to see
fort nnd shrine . . . . .

Kalborgah . . Ilaiilanlb^ . . G.I. P. and Ni- 1J8

zam's State By.
Stop 3 days to see city and tuuilM of

Golkouda

. Bidar . . . Palki .

Time. ExrcysE.
h. ni. Rs. an.

^aidaiAbod

Bi<1ar .
Jalnah .
Aarang&bid

Rozah

Stop at Bidar 2 days to see ruins
Jalnah . . Palki . . .

Aurangibdd , .
Rozah ... — —

Stop at Bozah 3 days to see caves

ofElAra

Ajauta . . . Carriage called

Tonga.
Stop at Ajanta 3 days to see caves

187
40
10

24
4 57

2
8 14

11 20

3 8

080 D. 22 13 39

8 7

IH)

251 7

Should the traveller be aLle to spare another week to see the
ruined city of Vijayapur, which covers nine 8<|. m., he will stoj) at
Gundakal, the 7th station from Riiichur.

Bailway or

From

To other

Conveyance.

Miles.

Time.
h. m.

Expense.
Bs. an.

Gandakal .

. Balldri . . . Madras By.

1 30

Ball^ri .

. Hampi . . . Shigram . .
Stay 3 days to
see the ruins . . . . .

. 72
12

Hampi

i Balhiri . . . Shigram .

'Total

38
107 D.

G G

4 1 30

Add fo

r Guide, 10 rs., T. B. 3 rs., Food, ts.

Total

• •

expense

•

Bs. 41

PHILOLOGICAL SKETCH OP THE LANGUAGES OP S. INDIA.

In the whole Madras Presidency there are 11,610,000 persons who
speak Telugu ; Tamil, 14,715,000 ; Kanarese, 1,699,000 ; Malayd-
lana, 2^24,000 ; Tulu, 29,400 ; Uriya and hill langiUH^es, 640,000 =
31,017,400, but the Census Report for 1871 makes the population
31,281,177.

Most of the languages of S. India belong to what has l>een termed
the Dravidian family ; affinities have been .sought out of India," but
not with much success. Ethnologically, the primitive D\:t\.\\v!i\^w^
seem nearest to the aborigines of Australia. In luiVvBi, \\vvi /&a>^
Santah Uraon and Brabui hingwiges have bseu coi\TV^ic\.^\\ V\\\\ VJtva
ViavidJan languages of the S.

74 LAKGUAGES OP S. INDIA. Sect. I.

The comparative philology of these languages was first studied by
F. W. Ellis, of the Madras C. S., 1819. It was then taken up and
completed by Dr. Stevenson, Bishop Caldwell, Dr. G. N, Pope and
Mons. L. Vinson..

1. Caldwell (R. C), "A Comparative Grammar of the 8, Indian Dra-

vidian Languages," 2nd ed. 8vo, London. 1875.

2. Vinson (L.), " Le Verbe dans les Langues Draridiennes^" 8vo^ Paris,

1878.

The systems of writing used in S. India are unusually numerous and
complicated.

3. Burnell (A. C), " Elements of S. Indian Palaeography," 2nd ed. 4 to,

London, 1878.

The chief Dravidian languages are :

1, Ihmll, — Literary culture began about the eighth century A.D., and

numerous poetical and grammatical treatises exist, written in the
SSn-damil, which is, to a great extent, an artificial, poetical dialect.
Early Tamilculture was begun by the Jains, and the chief periods
in which Tamil literature flourished were the 9th, llth, and 16th
centuries, A.D. For an account of the existing Tamil literature,
see Murdoch (J.)
a, Scu'damU : —

1. Beschi (C. J.), Jesuit, 1744. "Shen Tamil Grammar, trans-
lated by B. G. Babington," 4to, Madras, 18 — .

2. " Clavis sublimioris Tamulici idiomatis," 4to, Tranquebdr, 1876.
h, £Mvn (or current) Tamil : —

1. **Grammaire Fran^aise-Tamoule," 12mo, Pondicherry, 1863. (This
is by a French priest, the Abb6 Dupuis.)

2. Graul (C), " Outline of Tamil Grammar " (from Bibliotheca

Tamulica), vol. ii. 8vo. . .

3. Winslow (M.), "Tamil Dictionary,'* 4to, Madras, 1862.

4. ** Dictionnaire FranQais-Tamoul, par deux Missionaircs Aposto-

liques," Pondicherry, 2 vols. 8vo. ...

There is nothing like a useful English-Tamil Dictionary ; the Rev.
P. PercivaPs Vocabulary is the best, but is very small.

Dr. G. N.r Pope's different Manuals are of great value. The best
reading book is Beschi's " Story of Guru Paramarttan," wliich has
appeared in numerous eilitions at Pondicherry.

The Tamil graphic system is incomplete, and presents many
puzzles.

2. Telugn, — It is difficult to trace the beginnings of existing Tclngu

literature farther back than the 13th cent* A.D. The only uscfid
account of it is to be found in Mr. C. P. Brown's papers in the
** Madras Journal."
1, Brown (C. P.), " A Grammar of the Telugu Language," 2nd cd»

8vo, Madras, 1857.

Z , « Telugu-English Dictionary."

•9. , "English-Telugu Dictionary."

'' , *• Telugu Reader," S parts, *\o*

I. LANGUAGES OP.S^ INDIA. 75

The Telugu alphabet ia very complete, but is complicated and
ill(^ble.

^> Kanare9e, — The literature of this language appears to hare begun
about the 10th cent. A.D. It has Ixien, of late, critically studied
by the Kev. F. Kittel, and all existing information is to be found
in the prefaces to his editions of the " Shabdamnnidarpana," and
*' Nagavarma's Chandas," both ])ubli8hod at Mangalur.

1. Hodson (T.)» "An Elementary Grammar of the Eannada or

Canarese Language," 2nd ed. 8vo, Bengal iir, 1804.

2. Reeve (W.), " Kamatica-Engli8h,"1832, and " English-Kamatica "

Dictionaries, 1824. These huge quartos were printed at Madras.

3. Wilrth (G.), " Sketch of old Kanaresc Grammar jn Kanareae,** 186G.

A new and sufficient Kanarese-English Dietionar}^ is in preparation
by Mr. Kittel.

The Kanarese alphabet is merely a variety of Telugu.

4. MalayAlam. — ^This language has little (if any) literature older than
the arrival of the Portuguese. It is very near Tamil, but is re-
markable by reason of having lost the complicated verbal inflec-
tions found in the last. The Malay dlam alphabet is a variety. of
the Gratitha used in S. India to write Sanskrit.

1. Keet (J.), ** Grammar of the Malay dlam Language,^* Cottagam*

8vo, 1841. (This is very unscientific, like Sil the Malay ilam
Grammars in English.)

2. Gundert (H.), ** Grammar in Malay dlam," 1868. It is unfortunate

that this, the only adequate Malaydlam Grammar, should be
written in a language understood by so few.

3. , ** Malaydlam English Dictionary," 8vo, Mangali!ir,

1872. (This is a most admirable work.)
. 5. ThIh. — This language can hardly be said to possess any literature
beyond a translation of the Bible, etc. It has very complicated
inflections. The Basle missionaries use the* Kanarese character to
print Tulu, but a variety of the Malaydlam alphabet was originally
used for this purpose.

1. Brigel (J.), ** A Grammar of the Tulu Language," 8vo, Mangaliir,

1872.

2. A Dictionary (by Rev. J. F. A. Mannar) is nearly ready.

C» Kodngv or Coorg, — No literature ; will probably soon be supplanted
by Kanarese. The natives use the Kanarese alphabet.
1. Cola (R. A.), ** An Elementary Grammar of the Coorg Language,"

8vo, Bengaliir, 1867.
2* Graeter (Rev. A.). " Outline of Coorg Grammar, with Coorg Songs,"
Mangali!ir, 1870.

The tribes on the Nilgiri moimtaina speak dialects which have
(very undesirably) attracted much attention ; these are

!• Toda or Thida. — Which is an old dialect of Tamil. There is a voca*
bulary by Mr. Mets, in the Madras Journal, and a full grammar
(by Dr. G. N. Pope) in Marshall's ** Phrenologist amon^lKe T^wj,"
8vo, London, 187S,

2. Ab^a.—Very near the Tuda, dialect. There 18 a xoc«tov3\«rs \s^ ^^'
Metz in the Madras Journal,

76 LANGUAGES OF S. IXDIA. Sect. !•'

3. Badaga or Burglier, — An old dialect of Kanarese. The Gospel of
Luke has been translated into this, and lithographed at Mangaliir
(1862). The people ha?e been studied most carefully by Dr. F,
Jagor.

The number and difficulty of the Dravidian languages have prevented
the study of them by foreigners, and English is more generally known
and spoken by the natives of the S. than of the N. To obtain an
adequate knowledge of any of the Dravidian languages a foreigner
must study hard for years, and accuracy of j)ronunciation (which is
most essential) can hardly be acquired except when the learner is
very young. A well known S. Indian missionary, e.//., who had
studied Tamil for years, asked some people (as he thought) " Have
you souls ? " He mispronounced a few letters, and they understood
him to say, "Have you any goat's hair?" Another, who believed
himself preachinjj in the same language, was told by an old womain
that she thought he had been speaking his own.

N. INDIAN LANGUAGES SPOKEN IN S. INDIA.

1. Hind&iftdnX. — A peculiar dialect called Bakhni is spoken in the

south. It possesses a considerable poetical literature, none of
which has been as yet printed. Parts of the Bible in this dialect
are to be had.

2. MardfJU. — Is much spoken at Tanj\ir. The silk weavers speak a

very corrupt Mar. jargon, and so do many wandering tribes.

3. Xonkani. — Is a dialect of Mardthl, but very distinct in many ways.

In this language is a considerable Christian literature, due to the
QoB. Jesuits of the 16th and 17th cents. A.D. Several grammars
exist, a good one (in Portuguese) by Father Estevas (Stephens, an
Englishman) was first printed at Goa in 1640, and has been re-
printed at the same place (1857) by Senhor da Cunha Rivara,
whose introduction gives a full and interesting account of the
literature and its history. The Jesuits used the Roman characters
(16th cent.) in writing and printing in this language, and the
practice has continued ever since.

It must be remarked that besides local varieties of grammar and
vocabulary, each considerable caste has terms peculiar to itself. In
S. India it is, thus, almost impossible for a person of one caste to
pass himself off as belonging to another ; detection at once follows
such attempts, which sometimes occur. The Mdpilahs of Malabiir,
and Labbais of the Tamil country, write Malaydlam and Tamil by
means of a singular adaptation of the Arabic alphabet.

VOCABULARIES AND . DIALOGUES.

The Languages of India may philologically be divided into tvo

groups, — the Northern and Southern. In the fojiner there is a vast

admixture oi Sansk^t, on a slender aboriginal basis ; in the latter,

and especially in the Tamil, the Sanskrit is simply an infusion, and

^e aboriginal dialect is independent, iwW, am\ eop\o\\^. \tv VVvr.

JSorthern group, the principal languages ate Paw^aU, ^\w^\\\, ^w

d£Cb« jL%

VOCABULARY.

languag
the localities of the Routes :

English.
Oue

Two .

Three'

Four

Five

Six

Seven

Eight

Nine

Ten

Eleven

Twelve

Thirteen

Fourteen

Fifteen

Sixteen

Seventeen

Eighteen

Nineteen

Twenty
Twenty-one
Twenty-two
Twenty-three

Twenty-four

Twenty-five

Twenty-six

Twenty-seven

Twen^-eight

Twenty-nine

Thirty

Thirty-one

Thirty-two

Thirty-three

Thirty-four

Thirty-five

Thirty-six

Thirty-seven

Thirty-eight

Thirty-nine

Forty

Forty-one

FortjT'three

Eanabese.
Oudu

Eradu

Miiru

Ndlku

Aidu

Aru

Elu

Entu

Onbattu

Hattu

Hannondu

Hanneradu

Hadimi!iru

Hadindlku

Hadinaidu

Hadindru

Hadin^]u

Hadinentu

Hattombattu

Ippattu
Ippattondu
Ippatteradu
Ippattumiiini

Ippattundlku

Ippattaidu

Ippattdru

Ippatt^lu

Ippattentu

Ippattombattu

Milvattu

Miivattondu

Milvatteradu

Miivattumiiru

MilvattunAlku

Miivattaidu
MilvattAru
Miivattelu
Miivattentu
Miivattombattu
Ndlvattu
Ndlvattonda
Ndlvatiera4vL
Ndlrattamim

Telugu.
Wokati

•

Bcndn
Mi:id'u

•

Ndlugu

Aidu

A'ru

Yedu

Yenimidi

Tommidi

Padi

Padakondu

Panneiidu

Padamiidu

Padlmdlugu

Padih^nu

Padahdru

Padih^du

Paddhenimidi

Pandommidi

Iruvai

Iruvaiwoka^i
Iruvairendu
Iruvaimiidu

•

Iruvaindlugu

Iruvaiaidu

Iruvai dru

Iruvaiy^du

Iruvaiyenimidi

Iruvaitommidi

Mupphai

Mupphaiwokati

Mupphairendu

Mupphaimiidu

Mupphaindlugu

Mupphaiaidu

Mupphai dru

Mupphaiy6du

Mupphaiyenimidi

Mupphaitommidi

Nalubhai

Nalubhaiwokatl

Nalubhairen^u.

Nalubhaiinii4^

Tamil.
Onru (oijiiu, com.

form.)
Iraiidu (rendu)
Miindru (munu)
Ndngu (ndlu)
Kindu (anii)
Aru
Yezhu
Yettu

Onpadu (ombadu)
Pattu

Padinonpi (-onnu)
Pannirandu
Padinmiinru

(padimunu)
Padiudngu (-ndlu)
Padinaiudu (-nanji)
Padindru
Padin6zhu
Padinettu
Pattonpadu

(•ombadu)
Irupadu

Irnpattondm (-onnu)
Irupattirandu
Irupattumiinru

(-miiru)
Impattindngu (-ndlu)
Irupattaindu (-anji)
Ii-upattdru
Irupatt^hu
Irupattettu
Irupattonpadu
Muppadu
Muppattonpi
Muppattirandn
Muppattumilindru
Muppattindngu

(-ndlu)
Muppattaindu
Muppattdru
Muppatt^hu
Muppattettu
Muppattonpadu
Ndrppadu.

VOCABULARY.

Sect !•

English.

Forty-four

Forty-five

Forty-six

Forty-seven

Forty-eight

Forty-nine

Fifty

Fifty-one

Fifty-two

Fifty-three

Fifty-four

Fifty-five

Fifty-six

Fifty-seven

Fifty-eight

Fifty-nine

Sixty

Sixty-one

Sixty-two

Sixty-tlirec

Sixty-four

Sixty-five

Sixty-six

Sixty-seven

Sixty-eight

Sixty-nine

Seventy

Seventy-one

Seventy-two

Seventy-three

Seventy-four

Seventy-five

Seventy-six

Seventy-seven

Seventy -eight

Seventy-nine

Eighty

Eighty-one

Eighty-two

Eighty-three

Eighty-four

Eighty-five

Eighty-six

Eighty-seven

Eighty-eight

Kakabese.
Ndlvattandlku
N&lvattaidu
NAlvattdru
NAlvatt^hi

•

Nalvattentu

Ndlvattombattu

Aivattu

Aivattondu

Aivatteradu

•

Aivattumuru

Aivattundlku

Aivattaidu

Aivattdru

Aivatt^lu

•

Aivattientu

Aivattombattu

Aravattu

Aravattondu

Aravatteradu

Aravattumiiru

Aravattundlku

Aravattaidu

Aravattdru

Aravatt^lu

Aravattentu

Aravattombattu

Eppattu

Eppattondu

Eppatteradu

Eppattumuru

Eppattundlku

Eppattaidu

Eppattdru

Eppattelu

Eppatten^u

Eppattombattu

Embattu

Embattondu

Embatteradu

Embattumi^ru

Embattundlku

Embattaidu

Embattdru

Embatt6Ju

Embattentu

Eighty-nine Embattombattu

Ninety
Ninety-one
Ninety- two
Ninetjr*thrce
Niaetf'fouT

Tombattu

Tombattondu

Tombatteradu

Tombattumiira

IbiQbattuBdlku

Teluou.
Nalubhaindluga
Nalubhaiaidu
Nalubhaidru
Nalubhaiy^du
Nalubhaiyenimidi
Nalubhaitommidi
Ydbhai
Ydbhaiwokatl
Ydbhairendu
Ydbhaimi!idu
Ydbhaindlngu
Ydbhaiaidu
Ydbhaidru
Ydbhaiy^du
Ydbhaiyenimidi
Ydbhaitommidi
Aruvai
Aruvaiwokati

•

Aruvairendu
Aruvaimudu

•

Aruvaindlugu

Aruvaiaidu

Aruvaidru

Aruvaiyedu

Aruvaiyenimidi

Aruvaitommidi

Debbhai

Debbhaiwokati

Debbhairendu

I)ebbhaimi!idu

• *

Debbhaindlugu

i)ebbhaiaidu

Debbhaidru

Debbhaiy^du

Debbhaiyenimidi

Debbhaitommidi

Yenabhai

Yenabhaiwokati

Yenabhairendu

Yenabhaimi!idu

•

Yenabhaindlugu

Yenabhaiaidu

Yenabhaidru

Yenabhaiy^du

Yenabhaiyeni-

midi
Yenabhaitom-

midi
Tombhai
Tombhaiwokati
Tombhairendu
TombhaimMvi
Toinbhau\61\)Lg;vx

Tamil.

Ndrppattindngu

Ndrppattaindu

Ndrpattdiru

Ndrppatt^zhu

Ndrpattettu

Ndrpattonpadu

Eimpadu (ambadi)

Eimpatton^u

Eimpattirandu

Eimpattumiinru

Eimpattundngu

Eimpattaindu

Eimpattdru

Eimpatt^zhu

Eimpattettu

Eimpattonpadu

Ai*upadu

Apipattondru

An^pattirandn

AjTipattimundru

Afupattindugu

Aruppaindu

Arupattdfu

A]*upatt6zhu

Ajiipattettu

Arupattonpada

Yezhupadu

Yezhupattondru

Yezhupattirandu

Yezhupattumiindfa

Yezhupattindngu

Yezhupattaindu

Yezhnpattapi

Yezhupatt^zhu

Yezhupattettu

Yezhupattonpadu

Yenpadu

Yenpattondfu

Yenpattirandn

Yenpattumt^ndfu

Yenpattindngu

Yenpattaindu

Yenpattdfu

Yenpatt^zhu

Yenpattettu

Yenpattonpadu

Tonniifu

Tonniittonru (-onnu)
Tonni!ittirandu
TonxiTittimtindru

,Sect. I.

VOCABULARY.

INGLTRR.

Eanasese.

Teluou.

Tamil.

Ninety-fiTe

Tombattaidu

Tombhaiaidu

TonntittAinda (-anji)

Ninety-six

Tombattdru

Tombhaidru

Tonndttdru

Ninety-seven

Tombatt^lu

Tombhaiy^n

Tonniitt^zhu

Ninety-eight

Tombattentu

Tombhaiycnimidi Tonni!ittettu

Ninety-nine

Tombattom-
battu

Tombh aitonunidi

Tonni!ittonpadu

A hundred

Ntiru

Niiru

Ndru

Two hundred

Tnntkru

Inni!ira

Irundru

Three hundred

Manniira

Mnnni!iru

Munndfu

Four hundred

N4ni!iru

Nanniiru

Ndni!iru

Five hundred

Aini!iru

Yeniiru

Einniiru

Six hundred

Arani!iru

Amdru

Apiniiru

Seven hundred

£)ani!iru

Y6Jnrtru

Ye8zhuni!ira

Eight hundred

Sntnniiru

Tenamanni!ira

Yenniiru

Nine hundred

Ombaini!iru

Tommanni!ini

Tojdyiram

A thousand

84yira

Veyyi

Ayiram

Ten thousand

Hattusdvira

Padiv61u

Padiudyiram

A hundred

Nilirus&vira or

Tiakijtha

Latcham

thousand

Tiak^ha

A million

HattalakKha

Padilak^halu

Pattulatcham

I^aetUtm,

CJdllare,

Clullaralu^

Pinnangal,

A quarter

Edlu

Pdtika

Kdl

Ahalf

Ardha

Ara

Arai

Three-quarters

Mukk&lu

Muppdtika

Mnkkdl

One-and-a-

Ondiik41u

Woka^impdtika

Onr^kdl

quarter

One-and-a-half

Ondiivare

Wokatinnara

On^arai

One-and-three-

Ondtbuokk^u

Wukatimmuppd-

Onfdmukkdl

quarters

tika

Two-and-a-

EradiUc41a

Renduropdtika

Irand^kdl

quarter

Two-and-a-half

Eradiiyare

Rendunnara

Irandarai

Two-and-three-

. Eradilimukkdlu

Bendummuppd-

Iraiid^mukkdl

quarters

tika

Three-and-a*

Mdn^kdlu

Miidumpdtika

Miinrekdl

quarter

Three-and-a-
half
Three-and-

Mdrdvare

•

MMunnara

•

Mi!inrarai

Miirdmukkiila

Mi!idummuppd-

Mi!inr^mukkdl

three-qnarters

tika

Four-and-a

Ndlki^kdla

Ndlugumpdtika

Ndlekdl

quarter

Four-and-a-
half
Four-and-three

Ndlki!ivare

Ndlugunnara

Ndlarai

- Ndlkiimukkdlu

Ndlugummuppd-

Ndl6mukkdl

quarters

tika

A third

Miiraralliondu

Mi!idintl6wo-
kdpdla

Mdnril ora bdgam

Two-thirds

Mi^irarallieradu

. Miidintlorendu-
pdllu
Aidint;16woka-

Mdnril irandabdgam

Afilth

AidATaliionda

Ein^ OTu\>^^^xGL

• -

pdlu

dilxtb

JiraraUiondn

AllDtl6wokanti\j

a. ^T\\ dm.'biArexGL

VOCABULARY.

Sect. L

English^
A seventh

An eighth

A tenth

Eanabese.
Elaralliondu

Entaralliondu

Hattaralliondu

MontJis,

Tmgalvgalu,

January

Pushyamdsa

Febniary

M&ghamdsa

March

Ph^gunamdsa

April

Chaitramdsa

May

Vaishdkamdsa

June

J^^htamdsa

July

A'ithddhamdsa

August

Shrawanamdsa

September

Bhddrapada-

October

IXitaOcb

Ashvljamdsa

November

Kartikamdsa

December

Mdrgashira*

mdsa

Dayjt.

Dinagapi or

Varagalu,

Sunday

A'dityavdra

Monday

S6mavdra

Tuesday

Manga}avdra

Wednesday

Budhavdra

Thursday

Guruvdra

Friday
Saturday

East
West

North

South

Season,
Evening I Dec.

Dew I Jan.
Morning j Feb.,

dew { Mai*.
Mild- I April,

heat I May.
Hot i June

season \ July.

^^-^^ y^pt

CoJd jOct.,
{Nov,

Shukravdra
Shanivdra

Miida or Piirva
Padava or

Paschima
Badaga or

Uttara
Tenka or

Dak^hina

Jiutit,

Telugu.
y6dintl6woka-

« •

pdlu
Yenimidintlowo-

kapdlu
Padintl6woka-

pdlu

Mdsamvlu^
I\i$hyamu
Mdghamu
Phdlgunamu
Chaitramu
Vaisdkhamu
J^shthamu

•

A'shddhamu
•Shrdvanamu

•

Bhddrapadamu

A'swayujamu

Kdrtikamu

Mdrgashiramu

JDinamvlu,

Adivdramu

Somavdramu

Mangalawdramu

Budhawdramu

Brihaspativd-

ramu
Sukravdramu
Sanivdramu

Tiirpu
Padamara

Uttaramu
Dakshinamu

Jlutvvu,

Tamil.
Tczhil om bdgam

Yettil oru bdgam

Pattil oru bdgam

Mdsangal,
Tai
Mdsi
Panguni
Sittijrai
Vaigasl
Ani
Adi
Avani

•

Pnrattasf

Aippasi

Kdrttigai

Mdrgazhi

Mlga],

GndyijTi

Tingal

Sevvdy

Budan

Viydzham

Velli
»S:uii

Kizhakkn
M^fku

Vadakku

Terku

Kalam^
Munpani

Pinpani

Ilav6nil

Mudirv^ril

Kdr

»ect. 1.

VOCABULARY.

English.

Kanabese.

Telugu.

Tamil.

Spring

Yasantnrutn

Vasantarutuvu

Yasandakdlam

ISummcr

Grishmarutu

Grishmnrutuvu

Ki'xlnikdlnm

Aatnmn

Sharadrutu

Saradrutuvu

Kdrkdlnm

Winter

Yar^harutu

Var^harutuvu

Panikkdlam

Abyss

Pdt&la

Pdt^amu

Pdtdlam

Air

G&ll

A'kdsamu

A'gdyav^li, A'gdyam

Atom

Anuvu

Anu

Ashes

B^di

Biidide

Sdmbal

Bank of river

Hol^ada or
Nadltira

Ye^wocldu

Attangkarai

Bay

Sarave

A'ghdtamn

Kuddkkadal

Beach

R6vu

Rcvu

Kadnloram

Brid^

S^tuve

Vantena

Ydrdvadi

Babble

NiruguIIe

Ninibugga

Nirkkumizhi

Burning

Urita

Kdltsadniuu

Yeritlal

ChalV

8im6 suima

Simasunnamu

Slmaichnnndmbu

Channel

Sanna kAluvc

Edluva

Kdlvdy

CUy

Jidlmannu

K^gatimannu

Ealiman

Cload

M6<1a

Mabbu

Megam

CSiarcoal

Iddali

Boggu

Kan

Cold

Chali

Tsali

Kulir

Continent

Khanda

Khandamu

Eandam

Darkness

Kattaie

Chikati

Iruttu

Belnge

Jalapralnya

Jalapralayamn

Jalappirajayam

Depth

AJa

Lotu

Azham

Dew

Manju

Mantsu

Pani

Drop

Bottn

Bottu

Tuli

Dost

Diilu

Duvva

Tiisi

Earth

Bhiimi

Biimi

Earthquake

Bhi'ikampa
Aleya yi ita

Bhiikami)amu

Biimi yadirc'ai

Ebb-tide

Pjltuveia

Nirvattam

Ferry

Hole ddtuva
stala

Yei-u diitc tsufu

Turai

Flame

Jwdle

Manta

Suvdlai

Flash

Jyoti

Merupu

Joti

Fire

Benki

Nipi)u

Neruppu

Flood-tide

TTbbale

Potuvela

Nlrettam

Fog

Manju

Edviri

Mudu pani

Ford

I'jadc ddta ba-

R6vu

Tannin 1 nadakkun-

hudu(ia£ta)a

turai

Fountain

Chalumc

Chelama

Yiittu

Frost

Hima

Himamu

Yuj-ainda pani

Fuel

Saude

Kattepullalu

Yifagu

Gravel

Garusu

Morumu

Parukkdngkal

HaU

Kallumaje

Yadigandlu

Kalmazhai

Heat

Ushna or Shake V^dimi or yenda

Si^du

Highway

Dod^addri

Rdjamdrgamu

Pdttai

Hillock

Dibbe

Dibba

Eundru

Ice

(/w word)

Mantsugad^

Pani kattl

Island

Dwlpa

Dlvi

Tivu

Inundation

Praviba

Yarada

Ve\\am

JAke

Madam .

Jtfadugii

Y^Ti

Ugbtning

Mmcbu

3ferupu

Mimia\

VOCABULARY.

occt. 1,

English.

Kanaresb,

Tblugu.

Tamil.

Marsh

Kesarunela

Bddavan^la

Seduppu nilam

Mountain

Betta

Eonda

Malai

Ocean

Samudra

Mahdsamudramu Samuttiram

Path

HAdi

Ddri

Pddai

Plam

Maiddna

Bayalu

Maiddnam

Pond

Kola

Gunta

Eulam

Promontory

Eona

Bhi!imyagramu

Taraimunai

Qaicknand

Kallusubu

Dongaisuka

Tiili

Rain

Male

Vdna

Mazhai

River

Hole

Y6ru

Api

Sand

Usubu

Isuka

Manal

SeA

Samudra

Samudramu

Eadal

Shower

Male S6nc

Tiira

Perumazhai

Smoke

Hoge

Poga

Pugai

Snow

Ono word)

Mantsu

Yurauidamazhai

Spark

Kidi

Miuuguru

Tlppofi

Soot

Eddige

Earadiipamu

Ot^adai

Stone

Kaliu

Rdyi

Ealli

Stream

Pravdha or
Orate

Pravdhamn

Nir6ttam

Tempest

Gdllmale

Gdlivdna

Edttumazhai

Thnnder

Gudugu

Urumu

Kmnui^ (Idi| com.)

Valley

Kamari

Eondalasandn

Malaichandu

Water

Nlra

Nillu

Tannlr

WeU

Bdvi

Nuyyi
Sudi

•

Einapi

Whirlpool

Suliniru

Nirchuzhi

Whirlwind

Suligdli

Sudigdli

Suzharkdttu

Wave

Ale

Ala

Alai

JKxjisMp,

Mntntanat

Bandhntwatmu

Sanduttavani,

Ancestors

Hiriyaru

Peddaln

Mnnn6rgal

Aunt

Sddaratte or

Pinatalli or Me-

. Siriyatdydj (mother's

Doddatdyi

natta

8ide),Attai(father's
side)

Boy

Huduga

Pillakdya

Paiyan

Bride

Madavanigitti

Pendlikiituru

Ealiydnappen

Bridegroom

Madavaniga

Pendlikomdrudu

Ealiydna Mdppillai.

Brother

Sah6dara

Sah6damdu

Sagotaran

Bachelor

Maduve illa-

Bramhachdri

Biramasdri (onrikka-

dava

ran, onn ydl)

Childhood

Bdlya

Bdlyamu

Euzhandai laruvam

Children

Makkalu

Biddalu

Euzhandaikal

Cousin

Ddyddi

Gnydti

Pangdji

Daughter

Magalu

Eiituru

Magal

Dower

Stridhana

oai

Sidanam

Dwarf

Gujja

Maruguzzu

Eujlan

Father

Tande

Tandri

Tagappau

Father-in-law

Mdva

Mdma

Mdmandr

Female

Hengusu

Adudi

Pen

Girl

Hudugi

Padutsu

Sifupen

Orand'father

Tdta

Pdttan*

Omnd'mothox

^Jji

Avva

P6.iiv (sudandiran)

Seir

VdrasvL

VdrasudftTucVa

VtoVj^jeX^Q.

-tiasband

Ganda

renimiti

Yvcnv^^M

Sect I.

VOCABULARY.

English.
Infant
Inheritance
Kinsman
Male
Man
Manhood
Marriage
Mother
Mother-in-law
Mortal
Nephew

Niece

Nurse
Old Age
Old Man
Old Woman
Orphan

Posterity

Sister

Son

Step-mother

Twms

Uncle

{

Elder
Younger

Kanarese.
Eiisu
Ddya
Nentanu
Gandu

•

Manu^hyanu

Eaumdradcsbc

Maduve

Tdyi

Atte

Anityanu

Annanamaga or
Sddaraliya

Annanamagalu
or S6darasose

DAyi

Muppu

Mudukanu

Muduki

Tandetdyi ilia-
da mogu

Santati

Sahodari

Maganu

Malatiyi

Avail

Doddappa )

Childcappa (

Tklugu.
Shishnvu
Ddyamu
Bandhuvu
Mogadi
Mogavddu
Manunhyatwamu
PendU
Talli
Atta

Manu^hyudu
Annakomarudu

or menalludu
Annakiituru or

m6nag6dalu
DAdi

Musalitanamu
MusalivMu
Musalidi
Talidandri leni

bidda
Bantu
Sah6dari
Koduku

•

Mdmtalll
Amadalu

•

Pinatandri or
m^na mdma

Widow
Wife
Woman
Young Man
Youth

Parfg of tlic
Body,
Ankle
Arm
Back

Back-bone
Bik
Blood
Beard
Body
Bone
Brain
Breast
Breath
Cheek
Chin
£ar
Elbow
Sfe
JBije-brow

Vitantu Vitaniurdlu

Hendati PendlAmu

Strl or Hengusu A'dudi
Hareyadavanu Chinnavddu
Hareya Yauvanamu

Tamil.
Sisu

Sudandiram
Suttattdn (inattdn)
An

Manushan
Pnrushaparuvam
Kaliydnam
TAy

Mdmiydr
Naran
Vudan piranda ka

mdran
Vudan piranda ku*

mirti
TAdi

Mudumaip paruvam
Kizhavan
Kizhavi
Tdy Tagappanatta

piUai
Vamisa paramparal
Sagodari
Magan
Mdttdn tdy
Irattaip piUai
Sittappan (father's

side), Ammdn (mo-

ther's side)
Vidavai
Pcnsddi
Stiri
Vdliban
Ydlibam

Atayataga\H, Avayavamulu, ArayavanyaJ,

Girige
Rette

• »

Bemm

Bennelubu

Pitta

Hakta

Gadda

• •

Mai

Elubu

M6dhc

Ede

Usuru

Galla

Davade

Kivi ■

Monakai
Kannu
Hubhu

Cbilamanda

•

Bhujamu

Vlpu

Yennemuka

Paityamu

Netturu

Dddi

•

Sharlramu

Yemuka

Medadu

Rommu

U'piri

Davada

•

Gaddamu

Cheyi

Mdchejyi

Kannu

Kanuboma

Kanuk kdl

l^ijam (puyam, com.)

Mudugu

Mudugclumbu

Pittam

Irattam

Tddi

Vudal

•

Yelumbu

Miilai

Mdrpu

Miichu

Eannam

M6vdyk ka^^al

Kan
PurxLvoccL

€\ *£-

»4l

VOCABULARY.

•

English.

Kanarese.

Teluou.

Tamil.

Eye-lash

Repp^kiiddlu

Reppaventrukalu Kanmayir

Face

Mukha

MiQchamu

Mukam

Fat

Kobbu

Kovvu

Kozhuppu

Finger

Bettu

V61u

Viral

Fist

Mu^ti

Pidikili

Musti (mutti)

Flesh

Mdmsa

Mdnsamu

Sadai

Foot

Pdda

Pddamu

PAdam

Forehead

Hane

Nosalu

Netti

Gland

Gan^almani

Kaniti

Visainarambu

Gum

Vasadi

Iguru

I'ru

Hair

Kiidalu

Ventrukalu

Mayir

Hand

Kai

Cheyyi

Kai

Head

Tale

Tala .

Talai

Heart

Hjnidaya

Gunde

•

Irudayam

Heel

Himmadi

Madime

Kudik kdl

Hip

Tonka

Tunti

Iduppu

Jaw

Davedehailu

Tx)davada

Tridai

Joint

Kilu '

Kllu

Kidney

Gundige

PakkeragundC''
kdya

Kundikkdy

Knee

Mona,k&lu

Mokdlu

Muzhangdl

Knuckle

Ginnu

Ganupu

Virar kanu

Leg

KAlu

Kdiu

Kdl

Lip

Tuti

Pedavi

VudAdu

Liver

Yakruttu

Neride

I'ral *

Loin

Naduvu

Nadumu

Arai

Lungs

Sw^^ k6sh

Shwdsak6samu

Nurai I'ral

Marrow

Majje

Miilaga

Yelumbu mu]ai

MoustAchcs

Mifihe

Misdlu

Misai

Mouth

BAyi

N6ru

Vdy

Nail

Uguru

Goru

Nagam

Neck

Kuttige

Meda

Kazhuttu

Nose

Mi\gu

Mukku

Mi\kku

Palate

Angala

Angili

Mdlvdy

Pulse

DhAtii

DhStuvu

Nddi

Ribs

Pakkelubugalu

Pakkavemukala

Vilayelumbu

Side

Alle

Pakka

Pakkam

Skin

T61u

T61

Sinew

Nara

Naramu

Narambu

Skull

Kapdla

Purre

Mandai Yodu

Shoulder

Hegalu

Bhujamn

T61* *

Spittle

Uguju

VengiU

Yechil

Sweat

Bevaru

Chemata

V^rvai

Stomach

Hotte

Kadupu

Vayifu

Tear

Kanniru

Kannlr

Temples

Kenddre

Kanatalu

Pon*

Thigh

Tode

Toda

Todai

Throat

Gantlu

Gk)ntu

Tondai

Thumb

Hebbettu

Bottanavclu

Kai peru viral

Toe

Kdluberalu

KAliv61u

Kdlviral

Ton/rue

^4%e

NAluka

Ndku

Tooth

HalJu

Pallu

Pal

Waist
'Windpipe

Kanthavdla

Mola
Gontupika

Sect. I.

jsect. 1.

VOCADULARY.

EimiiisH.

Kanabese.

Teltjou.

TAiriL.

Wrist

Manikattn

Manikattu

Kanukai

Vein

Baktanara'

Ncttuti naramu

Iratta narambu

J)isease$.

Bogagalu,

Vf/fulhnlu,

1 bjadigal.

Ague

Chali jwara

Chali jwaramu

Kulirk kdychal

Bald

B61u

Bikli

Mo^^ talai

Blind

Kurudu

Guddi

Kurudu

Bruise

Jajjughdya

D6gudu

Vurdytal (ncuYU^

Cholera

VAntibh6di

Maradi

Vdndi bedi

Cold*

Kagadi

Pa4isemu

Saluppu

Cough

Kemmu

Daggu

Irumid

Consumption

K$hayar(3ga

K§havar6gamu

Kshayam

Deaf

Kivudu

Chevudu

Sevudu

Death

Sdvu

Tsdvu*

Sdvu*

Digestion

Jima

Jirnamu

Slranam

•

Dream

Kanasu

Kaia

Kanavu

Drowsiness

Ti^kadiVe

Nidi'amabbu

Yurakkam

Dumb

Miigu

Mi!iga

Viimai

Fainting

Miirche

Mdrchha

Miirchai

Fever

Jwara

Jwaramu

Suram

Fracture

Muruku

Bltika

Vedippu (odivu)

Gout

VAta hidita

Vdtar6ganiu

Sdl'ai

Hunger

Hashivu

A'kali

Pasi

Indigestion

Ajiriia

Ajli-ti

Asiranam

Inflammation

Uri

Manta

Yerivandam

Jaundice

Kamdle

, Kdmerlu

Kdmdlai

Lame

Kuntu

Kunti

Mudam

Madness

Huchchutana

Verri

Paittiyam

Measles

Daddra

Tattammavdru

Siruvaisdri

Nmnbncss

Timaru

Timmiri

Timir

Ophthalmia

Kannunovu

Kandla kalaka

Kannoy

Pain

B^ne

Noppi

Novu

Hash

Tsabu

Cheldi

Kappdn

Bheumatism

Vdtar6ga

Vdyuvu

Vdyvu (vddam)

Sickness

Vyddhi

Viyddi

Sleep
Smallpox

Nidde

Nidra

Nittirai

Shidubu

Ma8]!ichikamu

Vaisiiri

Spasm

Sheievu

rdpu

Kurandavall

Sore

Hunnu

Pundu

Pun

Squint-eyed

Meralugannulla Mellakannugala

O'rak kannulla

Stammering

Natti

Netti

Tettuvdy '

Swelling

Bdvu

Wdpu

VIkkam

Symptoms

li(^galak$hana-
galu

Lakshanamulu

Kufigal

Thirst

Bdydrike

Ddhamu

Tdgam

Voice

Swara

Kanthadhwani

Toni

Watching

Echcherike

Nidrapattaka
p6vadamu

Ti!ikam pidiydmai

Weakness

Nistrdne

Balahinata

Turp palam

Wound

Ghdja*

Gdjamu

'K&yam

yfmkle

Madatcbitm^

Mudato,

Tiraiwx C>.Vm^

VOCABULARY.

hect.

English.

Kanabese.

Teluou.

Tamil.

Quadrupeds,

CJiatu^hpada

Chatmlqmjjantu*

jantugaln.

vtdu.

Alligator

Mosaic

Mosali

Mudalai

Animal

Jantu

JantuYK

Jentu

Antelope

Chigari

Jinka

M&n

Ass

Katte

Gddide

Kazhudai

Bat

Kunnu kapiti

Gabbilamu

Turinjil (Vauwdl,

Bear

Karadi

Yeluggoddu

vutn-mf

Karadi

•

Beast

Mpiga

Mrigamu

Mirugam

Boar

Kddhandi

Mogapandl

K&ttupanri

Brute

Mfuga

Mpgamu, goddu

Mirugam

Back

G^nduhuUe

Mo^tduppl

Kalaimdn

Buffalo

Emme

G^de

Yenimai

Bull

V]i§habha

Yeddu

liishabam (yemdu
idabam)

Calf

Karu

Diida

Kanruk kutti

Camel

Onte

Lo^ipita

Ot^ gam

Chameleon

Han^gudda

Tonda

Pach6ndn

•

Cat

Bekkn

PilU

l^iiuai

Cattle

Danagalu

Pashuvulu

Adu mddukal

Colt

Oandu kudnre-
marl

. Gun*apu pilla

Kudiraik kutitl

Cow

Akalu

Avu

Pasu

Deer

Hulic

Jinka

M4n

Doe

Irri

Adajinka

Penmiin

Dog

NAyi

Kukka

Kdy

Elephant

Ane

Y6nugu

Yiinai

Elk

Kadavi

Kanuju

Kida mdn

Ermine

{n4) word)

Teliani adavi pilli (^no word)

Ewe

Hengnri

Pen^im6ka-pen-
tigorre

Pennddu

Foal

Kudur^mari oi
Katt^mari

• Gurrapu pUla

Kutti

Flock

Hindu

Manda

Mandai

Fox

Chendike nari

Gun^anakka

Kujlanari

Frog

Kappe

Kappa

Tavalai

Goat

Adu

M6ka

Vellddu

Hare

Mola

Chevula potu

Musal

Horse

Kudurc

Gurramu

Kudirai

Hound

B6te ndyi

Vetakukka

V^ttai nAy

Hyena

Kattekiraba

Gorabotu

Kazhudaip puli

Jackal

Kappalu nari

Nakka

Nari

Kid

Adumar

•

Meka jnlla

Velldttuk kutti

Tiamb

Kurimari

Gorre pilla

Attuk kutti

Leopard

Shivange

Chiruta puli

Siruttai

Tiion

Siiiha

Sinhamu

tSingam

Lizard

Halli

Balli

Palli

Mare

Henim kudure

Godige

Mdduvdn

Monkey

K6ti*

Koti

Kurnngu

Mouse (musk

Chundili

Tsuntsu

Sitteli

rat)

Mule

H^sarakatte

Kantsara g&^i^e 'K.^^^px kazhudal

Mttskdeer

KastiiA mru&ra

(no word^

lL«AV{xT\"nv.ifflx

Sect I.

VOCADULARV.

English*

Panther

Pig

Porcupine

Babbit

Bam

Bat

Bhinoceros

Sheep

Squirrel

Tiger

Wolf

Adjutant
Brood

Chicken

Cock

Crane

Crow

Dove

Duck
Eagle
Falcon
Florican
Fowl
Game
Goose
Hawk
Hen
Heron
Hoopoe
Jungle Fowl
Kite

Nightingale
Ostrich
Owl
Parrot
. Partridge
Peacock
Peahen
Pheasant

Pigeon

Quail

Sparrow

Spur-fowl

Wagtail

BombeJo

Kakabese.

Basava

Houniga

HaAdi

E'du

Shime mola

Tagaini

Kha(lga mruga

Kuri

Anilu

Hiili

T61a

Pak^Mgalu^
(no word)
Pak^himarigala

hindu
£61imari
Hunju
Kokre
Kdge
Pdrv&nada

hakki
Tadiga
Haildu
Giduga
(jno word)
Koli

B^tegalu
Bdtu
D^ge
Pette

Heggokkare
Konde hakki
Adavik61i
Haddu
(jno word)
(no word)
Giibe
Gini

•

Kaujuga
Navilu

Hennu navilu
(jHo word)

PdrivAla

•

lidvuge
Gubbi
Kdduk61i
Kumbdra gubbi

Minvgahu
(no ?rord)
;^alli

Telugu.
Yeddu
Chinita puli
Paiidi pilli
Mundlapandi ^
Shima kuud^lu
Pottelu
Yeiuka

Khadga mfigamu
Gorre
Udata
PiiU
Tod^lu

Pa1t»1inhi.
Begguru pakshi
Pakshipilialu

Kodipilla

Punju

Koi'iga

Kdki

Pdvurdvi

A'dnbdtu

Buruva

Dega

Kdmilcdipitta

Pakshi

Veta mjigamu

Peddabdtu

D6ga

Pet^ai Kozhi

Konga

Kiikuduguvva

Adavikodi

* •

Gadda
(;no word)
(no word)
Gudlagiiba
Chiiuka
Kauiizupi^ta
Nemali
Pentinemali
Pedda n61a ne-
mali
Pdvuramu
Kolankipitta
U'rapifsuka
Chimatakodi
Dasaripit^a

ClUpahu
(no word)

Wtft

Tamil.

Yerudu

Siruttai

Panfi

Muljam pan|i

Simai musal

Attuk kadd

Yeii

Kdndd mirugam

Ailii '

Anir pillai

Puli

Tonddn (ondi, row.)

PajravaigaU
Maddli
Kuiijugal

K6zhik (kunju)

Seval

Ndrai

Kdkkdi

Purd

KuUa vdttu

Kaxhugu

Valliiru

Varagu k6zhi

Kozhi

Vc'ttaip paravai

Periya vdttu

Dukai (parundu)

Pettai

Kurugu

Kuk kupivdni patch!

Kdttuk kcSzhi

Parundu

Sag6ra patchi

Tlkkuravi

Andai

Kilip piHai

Kavddri

Mayil

Penmayil

Kdittu ch^val

Purd
Kddai

Viirk kuruvi
Mullang k6zhi
Ydlattuk kuruvi

tS6

VOCABULARY.

beet. J

Ekglirh.

Kanabese.

Teltgu.

Tamil.

Eel

Hdvumlnu

Pdmu ch6pa

Vildngu

Mango-fish

{iio word)

yen*a mdga che
palu

- {fw word)

Oyster

Chippuminu

GuUa ch^pa

Matti (sippi)

Pomfret

{no word)

Tsanduvdyichdpi

\ Vavvdl min

Porpoise

Kai miuu

(no word)

Kadar pau]:i

Shark

(/k» word)

Sora ch^pa

Surd

Shrimp

Sigadi

Ki!indrapottu

Irdi

Skate

(no word)

T6ki ch^pa

(fio word)

Sole

(no word)

Ndluka chdpa

Yenimai ndkku

Turtle

Kilrma

Tdb61u

Amai

Whale

Timingila

Timingilamu

Timlngilam

Jnsects.

1Tu]aga]u^

Purvffulu,

P&chiga],

Ant

Ira

Chima

Yerumbu

Bee

J^nunoria

T6neylga

T6ul

Beetle

Dumbi

Boddauki

Vandu

Bug

Tagani

Nalli

Miittup piichi

Butterfly

Sitd prdtti hula Sitdk6kamu

Vanndttip piichi

Caterpillar

Kambali hula

Kambalipurugu

Kam'balip piichi

Centipede

Ni^rugAlu

Kdllajerri

Piiram

Cochineal worm (jno word)

Arndmpurugu

Tambalap piichi

Fire-fly

Bcukihula

Minugurupurugu

Min minip piichi

Fly

Nona

rga

Gnat

Gui'igddu

D5ma

Kosu

Grasshopper

Midite '

Midata

•

Pachaik kill

•

Leech

Atte

Jelaga

Attai

Locust

Midicha

Peddamidata

Vettuk kill

Louse

Hlrlu

P6nu

Pen

Maggot

Hula

•

Purugu

l\izhu

Millepede

Sdviragdlu

B6katibanda

Maravnttai

Moth

PataAgada hula Chima^a

Pdychi
Tel

Scorpion

Ch^lu

T61u

Silk-worm

Pattu hula

Pattupurugu

Pattup piichi
Nattai

Snail

Basavana hula

NattaguUa

Snake

HAvu

Pdmu

Pdmbu

Spider

J6da

Sdlepurugu

Silandi

Swarm

Makshika sa-
muddya

Gumpu

Kii^tam

Tick

Unni

Pinujulu

Vuni

Vermin

Ki|a

Purugulu

Pandangalai nzhik
kum genduk kul

Wasp

Kadaja

Tummeda

Kulavi

White ant

Gcddalu

Cheda

Sel (Karaiydn,co///.)

Stones, etc.

Kalliigalii

jRatnamulu.

Irattinangdl

mimtaddv.

ttwdalayinavi.

wudalanadn.

Agate

Vaidiirva

{no word)

Vaidiiriynm

Alum

Patikdra

Pa^ikdramu

Padik kdram

Amethyst

Mdnikya

{no wo7'd)

Sevvandikal

Antimony

Surma

Surumd

Nildnjanak kal

Brass

HitWe '

Ittadi

Pittalai

Cat's-eye

Qdm4dhik&

Vaidurvamu

Y^Tveck^L V»x^ ^"ivV

Crystal

Sphafika

Spba^ikomu

Ytt5fi\^»m

-beet. 1.

VOCABULARY.

Enolisu.

Kanabese.

Telugu.

Tamil.

Copper

TAmbra

Ildga

Sembu

Ck>ial

Hava|a

Pagadamu

Pavazham

Camelian

Holeva kallu

Kuruvindardyi

(no vrard)

Diamond

Vajra

Kara

Vairam

Dross

Nore

Chi^tamu

Sittam (kittam)

Emerald -

Pachche

Patsa

Pachai

Flint

Ohakknmuk-
Idkallu

Chekimukirdji

Sakki mukkiknl

Gold

Chinna

Bangdru

Pon

Iron

Kabbina

luumu

Irumbu

Jet

KdraAji

{fM word)

Kai*uniiid}aL

Jewel

Odave

Katnamu

Irattiriam

Lapis lazuli

Vaidiirya

Vaidiiryamu

Vaidiliriyam

Lead

Shisa

Sisamn

Tyam

Loadstone

Siijikdntokallu

Si!idantunlyi

Kdndakkal

Marble

Al^mdnikallu

Chalnvardji

Salavaik kal

Metal

L6ha

I>6hamu

Iji)gam

Mine

Gani

Kani

Mineral

L6hadh4ta

Ganiloni vastuvu

Tddu

Pearl

Muttu

Mntyamu

Muttu

QmcksilYer

PflUlarasa

Pddarasamu

HaMam

Bnby

Kempu

Kembu

Sapphire

Nila

Nilamu

Nilam

Silver

Belli

Vendi

Velli

Steel

Ukkn

Ukku

Yegu

Sulphnr

Gandhaka

Gandhakamu

Kandagam

Talc

Abhraka

Abhrakamu

Abarekku (appira-
gam)

Tin

Tagara

Tagaramu

Tagaram

TopaE

Put^yardga

Pufthjardgamu

Pushpardgam

Touchstone

Ore kallu

Woragallu

Yuraikal

Turquoise

Nllada kallu

IHrojdrdyi

NiU rattinak kal

Apparel*

V^vpu,

Dustulu,

VndMppn,

Boot

M('>jd

M6jd

Bi^t» jodu

Bracelets

Balegalu

Kadiyamulu

Kadagam

Brocade

Sarige ' bu^td
pattu

Atara^h

•

Bittirap pattddai

Button

Gundi

Gundl

Pottdn

Cap

Kulldyi

KuUd

Chain

Sarapani

Golusu

Sangili

Cloak

Doddachatte

Kunche

P6rvai chattai

Clothing

Yastragalu

Battalu

Vuduppu

Coat

Chatte

Kotu

Nedunjattai

Cotton

Ajle

Diidi

Pauju

Drawers

Challana

Shardyi

Nisdr

Ear-rings

Hattakaduku

Tammetlu

Mattik kdy (kddani)

Embroidery

Nirdji

Buttapani

Piittaiyal

Fan

Bisanige

Visanakarra

Visiri

Girdle

Datti

Nadikattu

Araik kattu

Glove

Kaigausanige

Cheyij6du

Eaim^r ^^

Gown

'^WuTah^

Niiavutangl

GavuTV

'Handkerchief

Kairastra

Bumdlu

Ka\\L VVL^S^iM.

Liaea

Bafte

Mlubatta

li^<^tc\xV\w.

VOCABULARY.

Sect. !•

English*

Lining

Loop

Necklace

Needle

Pocket

Kibbon

King

Seam

Shirt

Shoe

Silk

Skii-t

Sleeve

Stocking

Thimble

Thread

Turban

Veil

Velvet

Woollen

Asi)aragu8

Appetite

Jiarley

Boiled

Beef

Iiean

Bread

Breakfast

Brinjal

Bottle

Broth

Butter

Cabbage

Cauliflower

Cheese

Cork
Cream
Curds
Dainty

Dinner

Drink

Feast

Flesh

Flour
Fried
Olass

Kanabese.
Astaru
Kunike

•

Kanthasara

Siiji '

J6bu

Gundusiiji

Navdra

Ungura

Dunduholige

Childca Boge

J6du

Pattu

Sharagu

Sog6t61u

M6j6du

Angustan

Ddra

PAgd

Musuku

Mukamal

Tupataddu

A'hdra^
{no word)
Hasivu
Javeg6di
Kudishiddu
Hiremamsa
Chapparada-

vare
Rotti

• •

Belaggina uta
Badan6 kdyi
Shise

Mdthsa sdra
Benne

Kovisajmlya
Hiivinakovisu
Junnu

Bendu
Kene
Mosaru
Ndj6kdda

bhak^hya
Madhydnada

i:ita
Pdnlya
Habba
Mdiiisa
Hittu

• •

Huridaddn
G&ji

Telugu*
Astiri
Utsu

Kanthasari
Siidi'
J6bu

Gundusddi
Nddd

•

Ungaramu
Nadimikuttu

• • •

Chinna tsokkd

Muchche

Pattu

Kongu

Tsokkd cheyyi

M^jodu

Angustdnu

Ddramu

Pdgd

Musuku

Mohamalu

Bandtu

A'hdramv,
{no word)
Akali

Bdrlibiyyamu
Wandiua
Pedda mdmsamu
Chikkudugdya

Rotte
Tsaddi
Vankdya
Buddi
Chdru
Venua
'. K6sukiira
Pedda kosukiira
Dzunnu

Biradd
Mlgada
Perugu
Ruchigala paddr-

dhamu
Vedibh6janamu

Tdg6 vastuvu

Panduga

Mdmsamu

Pindi

P^lchina

Gddznp&txa

Tamil^
Vuljurait tuni
Kanni (noose of loop)
Kandasarum (ani)
Viisi'
Sdkku
Kunddsi
Ribin
M6diram
Taiyal
Kamisu
Sodu
Paitu
Mun tdnai
Sattaik kai
Kdl mejodu
Angus^dn
N\il

Talaip pdgai
Muk ^ddu
Mugamal pattu
Kambill

A'gdram,
Asparegas
Pasi

Vdr k6dumai
V^vitta
Md^tifaichi
Pliisii

Rotti
T6m6sai
Kattarik kdy

Putti

Anam

Venney

KcWis kirai

Kdli pillavar

Sunnuk katti (par

katti)
Kdrku
Pdledu
Tayir
Rusiydna vasiu

Tlni

' Pdnam
Virundu
Mdmisam
Mdvu
Poritta
Y«l\y[\?^ \^iA.tiram,

Sect. T.

VOCABULARY.

•

ENOLIttU*

Kanabese.

Telugu.

Tamil.

Gravy

Mamsa rasn

Mdmsa rasamu

Mamisa rasam

Greens

K^yi palyagaju

Akuki'ira

Kirai

Guest

Avutanakke
bandava

Atithi

Virunddli

Host

AvutanA idu-
vava

Grihastu

Viinindidugirayaa

Jam

Muramba

Tdndra

Jdm tittippu

Jelly

(»o word)

Sharabattu

Jelli

Knife

Chiiri

Katti

Milk

Hdlu

Pdlu

Pdl

Millet

Navane

Mokkajonnalu

Tinai

Minced

Hachchida

Chitakagottina

Kondina

Mustard

SAsive

Avdlu

Kadugu

Mutton

Kuri mdihsa

Veta mdmsamu

A'ttijaichi

Napkin

Kai gudde

Kumdlu

Napkin

Enne

Niinc

Yeiincy

Pickle

Uppina kdyi

U'nigdya

Viinigdy

Pepper

Meuasu

Miriydlu

Milagu

Plate

Pingdni

Tatta

Piiigdn

Boast

Sutta

Sega d7.u])iua
vastuYu

Anal kattinadu

Eice

Akki

Annamu

Soru

Salt

Uppii

Uppu

Vuppu

Sauce

Chatni

Vv.injanamu

Knzhambu

Spoon

Sautu

Gaii^c

Karandi

Stewed

Besida

Vetsachesina

Sunda vaitta (San-

dhdramu

dina dhdram)

Sugar

Sakkare

Tsakkera

Saruk karai

Supper

RAtri lita

Kdtribhojanamn

Irdp posanam

Sweetmeats

Mithayigalu

Mithdyi

Mittdy

Tablecloth

Mej6battc

M^jd duppati

Mesai dupimtti

Tray

Tdmbdla

Tatta

Tire

Veal

Karuvina
mdmsa

Diida mamsamu

Kauprflichi

Vinegar

Kddi

Kadi

Kddi

•

Wheat

G6di

GtHlhumalu

Kodumai'

Wine

Drukshlmadya

Drdkfiha-sdrdyi

Dirdksha sdrdy.^.m

Home, Furnl'

Mane in v tin-

• Jllu xtunaniiht

17 du 8a m a », m nda

ture, <Jv,

ffalu vmutdddn,

, liiodulaylnavi.

lanada^

Arch

Kamdnu

Kamdnii

Valaivu

Bag

Chlla

G6tdmu

Pai

Basket

Glide

Gampa

Kiidai

Barber

K^hanrakauu

Mangalavddu

Ambattan

Bearer

Horuvavanu

Boyi

B6yi "

Bath

Bachchalumanc

J Sndnamu

Sndna totti

Bed-room

Malaguva kone

Padakatillu

Padukai aral

Beam

Tole

Diiiamu

Vuttiram

Bench

Kdlu maiic

Balla pita

Visippalagai

Bell

Gaiite

Ghanta

Mani

Bedstead

Mancha

Mantsamu

Kat'til

Bedding

Hdsige

Parupu

• •

'Blanket

Kambali

Gongadi

^lm?v\ V«ni>cfi^Iv

Box

Pettige'

Pettc or dabVi

YcttV

VOCABULARY.

Sect. I.

English.
Board
Bolt
Brick
Bucket
BoildiDg
Candle
Carriage

Carpet

Casket

Cellar

Chink

Chamber

Chimney

Chair

Chest

Cistern

Cook

Comer

Counting-house

Comb

Cover

Coverlet
Cup

Cupola
Cradle
Curtains
Discharge

Door

Drain

Expenses

Floor

Footman

Foundation

Furniture

Gardener

Groom

Hall

Handle

Hire

Hole

Jar

Kettle

Key

Kitchen

Laborer

Lamp

Kanabese.
Halige
Agali
Ittige
Bdni
Kattada
M^nada b&tti
BaAdi

Ratnakambali

Barani
Nclamdiige
Shllu
Kothadi

• •

Hoge giidii

Kurchi

Dodda pettige

Tot'ti

Adigeyavanu

MMe

Daftara khdni

Bdchanige

Muchcha)a

Hoddike
Bat}u

Kalasa
Totlu
Teregalu
Bidugade

Kada

Bachchalu

Yechchagalu

Nela

Kdldlu

Astibhdra

Sdmdnu

T6tagAr4

Kdistdra

Padasdle

Hidi

Kiiii

Tiitu

Jddi

•

{no word)
Bfgadakai
Adigemane
Kididlu

Dipa

Postdkagala,
iduvasthaln,

Tblugu. Tamil.

Palaka Palagai

Gadiya Tdzhappdl

Itikerdyi Bengal

NiUutod^pdtra Kaittotti (Kai chal)

Kattadamu Kattadam

Vatti Mezliuku vartti

Band! Vandi

Batna'kambali
(Kambalam)

Samputamu

N^lamdliga

Bitika ■

Gadi

Pogagiidu

Kurchi

Bo^hdnamu

Nlllatotti

Vantavddu

Mdla

Kothi '

Duvvena

Gavisena or
mi!i,ta

Palangu pdshu

Ginne

G6rigummatamu
Totla
D6matera
T^siv^yadamu, i^;•

kdradamu
Talupu'
Tilmu
Khartsulu
N61a
Panivddu

•

Punddi

Sdmdnu

Totaviddu

Gurra puvddu

Ki^tdmu

Pidi

Adde or killi

Bokka

Zddi

Nlllu kdche pdtra

Tdlapu chefi

Vaiitaillu

•

Pani ch^sukoni
jivinch6 vddu
Dipamu
Pustaka sHla

Samukkdlam

Simizh

Nilavarai

Vedippu

Ayai

Pugai kudu

NdrkdU

Periya petti

Nlrtotti

Samaiyaf kdran

MiUai

Panachdlai

Sippu

Miidi

•

Duppa^ti

(Metol) Kinnam pdt-

tiram, kuva|ei
Sti!ibi mandapam
TottU
Tirai chilai
N{kki vidudal

•

Kadavu

Haladdmi

Selavu

Tarai

y^laik kdran

Asti vdram

M^sai ndrkdligal

Totta kdran

Kudirai kdran

Kiidnm

•

Kai pidi

KiUi

Tulai

Pddi

Kopparai

Sdvi

Madappalll (kusini)

V^laiydl"

Yilikku

Sect. L

•

VOCABULARY.

English.

Kanab£;se.

Telugu.

Tamil.

Tiime

Sunna

Sunnamu

Sunndmbn

Lock

Blia

Bigamu

Piiitu

LookiDg-glass

Kannadi

Addamu

Mugak kannadi

Hat

ChApe*

Tsdpa

Pdy

Oven

Kotti olc

Rottelu kalche
poyyi

Aduppu

PAlkl

PAlki

Pdlakl

Palldkku

Pillar

Kambha

Guiidza

Tiiii

PiUow

Dimbu

Dindu

Talai yanai

Porch

Tala bdgalu

Mogasdla

P6rchu

Porter

Kiillvanu

KiiUvddu

Sumai yedukiravan

Plaster

Gachchu

Gntsu

Piichtt

Pot

Gadige

Kuiida

Pdnai

Koof

SiiiTi

Paipiiri

Kiirai

Scissors

Kattari

Kattera kola

Katteri kol

Senraut

S^vakanu

Naukaru

V61ai kdran

Sheet

Hachchada

Duppati

Duppatti

Slave

Guldma

U'digapttvddu or
khdsa

Animal

Snuffers

Kudikattari

Dlpapu kattera

Vilakku kattari

Soot

Abbdji

Ka^7uli!ipamu

Ottadai

Stair

S6pdna

Mettii

Marappadi

Step

Mettu

Adugu

( Stone) karpadi(padi )

Storey

Antastu

M'^da

M61 mettai

Sweeper

Gudisuvava

U'dchevddu

Perukku giraval

Table

M6je

M^jdballa

Mdsai

Tailor

Chippiga

Darjivddu

Taiyar kdran

Ten-ace

Mdligc

Tdrusu *

Talam

Tile

Henchu

Penku

O'du

Top

Tudi

Midde or kona

Mdrpnram

Tongs

Ikkala

Patakdru

Kufadu

Torch

Divatige

Di^ti

Paudam

Toroh-bearer

Ma^halji

Manhdlji

Masdlji

Wages

8ambala

Jitamu

Sambalam

WaU

Gode

Guda

Suvar

Washerman

Agasanu

Tsdkalavddu

Vanndn

Water-carrier

Nlru horuvavu

Nillu-techche-
vddu

Tannlr k kdran

Window-

Kitiki

Janal

Wood

Kdttigcormarsi Mdnu

Maram

Bit

Kadivdia

Kallepimiukka

Kadivdlattunirnm bu

Bridle

Lagdmu

Kallemu

Kadivdlam

Curry-comb

Kardru

Gorapamu

Kurappam .

Girth

Thadi

•

Tanguvdru

Tanguvdr

Martingale

Jerbandu

Mukhapat^a

Martingal

Saddle

Jlnu

Pallamu

Jlni

Spur

MojemuHu

Gurramunu
podiche muUu

Kudimu{

Spectacles

Miikkaiinadi

Sul6chanamu

Mnkku k kannddi

Stable

Ldya

Tab^ld

Ldyam

Stirrup

Rikdbu

Anke

Angapadi

A ffarde^;

To(a.

To{a^

T6\\am,

Frmt

Hannn

Paiidu

"Pa2\vaia

VOCABULARY.

k^vCL* Aa

" English,
Husk
Kernel
Stone or seed
Almond
Apple

Apricot

Cherry

Betel nut

C!ocoanut

Citron

Custard-apple

Date

Fig

Grapes

Guava
Lenwn

Lime
Mango
Mangostcin
Melon

Mulberry

Olive

Orange

Peach

Pear

Pine-npple

Plantain

Plum

Pomegranate

Quince

Baisins

Sugai'-canc

Tamarind

Wahiut

Trees,
Bambii
Blackwood
Boxwood
Coffeii
CyprcFS
Figtree

Mallows
MjTtle
Fine

Kanabese.
Hottu
Bitta

Kotte or Bija
Bdddmi
Elichihannu

iflw word)
(no word)
Adike

Tengina kdyi
Hiral6 kayi
Sitdphala
Kharjiira
Attihaiinu

•

Chappara
dr&kF^hi
Sibihaiinu
Niiiibe

Gajanimbe
Mdvinahannu
(no word)
Karbiija

Telugu,
Pottu
Pappu

Tenka or vittu
Bdddmu
Shlma r^gu

pandu
(no word)
(jw word)
Vakka

Kobbari kdya
Dabba kdya
Sitdphalamu
Kharjiira pandu
Shlma m6di

•

pandu
Angiiru pandlu

Jdma pandu
Nimma pandu

Nimma pandu
Mdmidi pandu
{no wm'd)
Karabiijd pandu

Hippalc haiinu Kambali pandu

Ippe
KitUhannu

•

{no wo7'd)
(no word)
Andsu
Bdle

(no word)
Ddlambi
B6ddnd
Drdkshi haiinu

Kabbu

Hunlshe

Akrota

Maragalu,
Biduru
Kemmara
Pettig^mara
Bdndu bija
Sum
Attimara

Khanguni
Anasa

(no word)
Kichchili pandu
(jio word)
{fw word)
Andsa pandu
Ariti pandu
Drdk^ha pandu
Dddima pandu
(no word)
Yendina drdkftha

pandu
Cheruku
Chinta pandu
(no word)

Clu'iln,
Veduni
Nalla mdnu
(no word)
Kdfi vittulu
Chikati mdnu
Shlma m^di

chet^u
Bella pdkuchettu
(no word)
Devaddruvtik-

Rhamu

Tamil.
T61

Paruppu
Kottai

Yddumai k kottai
Simai ilandai \y j^az*

ham
Apricot pazham
Cherry pazham
Pdkku

T6ngdy [ham

Kodi mddulam paz-
Sittdp pazham
P^richam pazham
Attip pazham

Tirdtcha p pazham

Koyydp pazham

Pcrelumicham paz-
ham

Yelumicham pazham

Mdm pazham

Mangostein pazham

Molam pazham, sum-
ai vellari

Musuk kattaip piaz-
ham

Olive pazham

KichiU p pazham

Peach pazham

Pear pazham

Anndsip pazham

Ydzhaip pazham

Plum pazham

Mddulam pazham

Quince pazham

Kdynda mundirikai
pazham

Karumbu

Pujiyam pazham

Walnut kottai

Marangal,
Miingil

Karnppu marnm
Punnai maram
Kdppichedi
Pungamaram
Attimaram

Tattichedi
Myttle maram

Sect 1.

VOCABULARY.

U.:

English.

Kakabese.

Telugu.

Tamil.

Teak

Tegu

Teku mdim

Tekka maram

Vine

Dr^kshi gida

Drdki^ha tlga

Tirdtcha kodi

Anise

Solnpu

Sdpu

Sombtt chedi

Cabbage

K6vi?apalya

Kosukiira

K6vlk klrai

Capsicnm

Menashina kdy

i Mirapakdya

Simai milakdy

Caraway

(;no word)

(no word)

S6mbu

Cardamom

Elakki

Yelakulu

Yelak kdy

Carrot

Pitakaiida

Gdzaragadda

Carrot

Chamomile

ShAvantige

(no word)

Sdmandi

Coriander

Kottnmbari
blja

Kotimira

Kottamalli

Cresses

Turuku sasive

Adelnkura

Cress

Jasmine

Mallige

Malle

Jddimalli kai

Lily (water)

Naidale

Tellakaluva

Tdmarai

Nosegay

Hiivinaturayi

Tasagasa

Piichendu

Poppy

Postugida

Gurdyi

Kasakasd

Bose

Guldbi *

Guldbi

R6jd

Tulip-tree

Basari

{fio word)

Piivarasu

Violet

{no word)

(no word)

Violet pii

Wreath

Mdle

Danda

Pumdlai

Bark

Patte

Baradu

•

Marappattai

Berry

KAyi

Kdya or panda

Sirukdy

Blossom

Moggu

Mogga

Pdngottu (cluster of
flowers

Branch

Eale

Maiida

Kilai

Fibre

Knstima

Ndra or lida

Ndr (malar)

Flower

Huwu

Puvvu

PA (pushpein)

Gnm

Meiia

Bauka

Pisin

Leaf

Ele*

A'ku

Ilai

Plant

Gida or sosi

Chettu

Nattu (pundu)

Boot

Beini

Veni

(rsculcnt) Kizhangu
(v6r, malam)

Trunk

Bnda

Modu

Adimaram

Cucnmber

8aut6 kdyi

Dosa kaya

Vejlarik kdy

Fennel

Siipu

Podda jilakara

Sadakuppi

Flax

Sanubu

Dzanumu

Sanal

Garlic

BeiluUi

Tellagadda

Vejlaip piindu (kom-
matti, kommntti
surai)

Gourd

S6r6 kAyi or

• Pottigummadi

Suraik kdy

kumbalakdyj

L kdya

Hemp

Ndra

Dzanapa ndra

Sanappu

Indigo

Nili

Nilimandu

{jfla fit ) A vuri (nilam)

Leek

Ullcgedde

{no word)

Nila venkdyam

Lentil

Alasandi

{no word)

Payaru

Linseed .

Agashe

(no word)

Siru sanal virai

Mint

Pudlnd

PucUnl

Tulasi '

Nettle

Kopa

Duradagondi

Kdnjori

Nightshade

(no word)
rruUi •

(no word)

Vishappundu

Onion

Ulligadda

Venkdyam

Parsley

AchAmoda

(no word)

Parsley

Peas

Batdni

Batdnilu

Yattam

Bae

Saddpii

Sadapa chettu

• • •

( 110 word^

Saffron

Arlshana

Kuiikutna puvYw Man\ri\

VOCABULARY.

Sect. J

English.

Kanarese.

Telugu.

Tamil.

Sorrel '

PuUamburuchi

Pulichintdku

Sukkan Niirai (suk-

soppu

kan kirai)

Spinach

(tw word)

Batsalikiira

Kirai (pasajei)

Squill

(no word)

Adavi, tellagadda (tio word)

Thistle

Dattiiri

Kusuma chettu

MuHl

Jet-d'eau

Nlrina hdyike

(no word)

Nirt tdrai

Aqueduct

Kdraiiji

Kdlava

Vdyk kdl

Arable Zand,

Jlasanaguva
bhumi.

Setyapu bhumi.

Sey Ml nilam.

Barley

Jave godi

Bdrli biyyamu

Vdrkodumai

Barn

Kanaja

Dhdnyapu ko^t^

Kdlanjiyam

Bran

Tavudu

Tavidu

Cart

Baiidi

M6tabandi

Sumai vandi

Chaff

Hottu

Pollu

Padar

Com

Dhinya

Dhdnyamu

Tdniyam

Farm

G^ni bhiimi

Idzdrd

Sdgupadi

Farmer

Raitanu

Kdpu

Payir seygifaATin

Field

Hola

Polamu or chenu

Pulam

Grass

Garike hullu

Pachchika

Pulln

Harrow

Guddali

Pdpatumu

Parambu

Harvest

Suggi

Kota

Aruppu

Hay

Onahullu

Yendu kasuva

Vularttina pul

Hedge

B4li

Kanche

Veli

Husbandry

Vyavasdya

Vyavasdyamu

Vivasdyam

Laborer

Gemegdra

Kamatagddu

A'l

Landlord

Neladayeja-
mdna

N61a khdvandn

Nilak karan

Meadow

Holamdla

Pachchika
polamu

Pulttarai

Plough

Negilu

Ndgali or araka

Kalappai

Reaper

Koyyuvava

Kotagddu or
kodavali

Afup paruk kiravan

Reaping-hook

Kudug61u

Kaluputlsedyud-

hamu
Biyyamu

Arivdl

Rice

Akki

Arisi

Sower

Bittuvava

Vitt^vddu or
dzaddignmu

Viraik kiravan

Spade

Guddali

Salakapdra

Manvetti

Stmw

Godihullu

Gaddi

Vaik kii

Stack

Mede

Kdda or todime

Por

Tenant

Okkalu

Kdpu or kdpur-
amuvund^vadu

Pdykdri

Wheat

GcSdi

G6dhumalu

Kddumai

Wilderness

Adavi

Kddu

Yoke

Noga

Kddi

Nugattadi

Yoke of oxen

(no word)

Woica araka yed-
dn]u

O'rdr kundai

0/ BanMng SavnJtarafana SdhnMrn vyapcL' tSdvffMr, thjaptiram
£rji//yietf0//nt^, ta Lckhati* ramu, lehkalH, kanaJtkvgalli

^Iiaj/a,. 'ci\in\ /jfttHiic7i(. Ttufittu,

Account Lekka Lekka TLcirnVVNiL

Acquittance Bidngade Chellu chi\\ ««\\w cVi\\^ja

S^Ct,L

VOCABtLARY,

Engjlish*

Kanarese.

Telugu.

Tamil.

Address

Arji or vildsa

Vildsamu

M(l*l vilasam

Advance

Mungada

Santsa kdramu

Mim panam

Prakatanc

I^aka^ana

Vilambaram

Agent

Mut^lika

Adatlddru

Kumdstd

Agreement

Odambadike

Wodambadika

Yudan padik kai

ATiswer

Uddraiie

Javdbu

Padil uttaravu

Apprentice

Abhyasisuvava

Pani n(^rtsukon6

Vclai kattuk koUu

chinnavddu

giravan

Asset

Jindagi

Sammati

Asti

Auction

Ela

Vol am u

Yelam

Balance

BAki

Niluva or bdki

Niluvai

Banker

Sdvukdra

Sahukdru

Kasuk kadaik kdran

Bankrupt

Divdli

Divdlcttina vadu

Duldbi

Bill

Kashidu

Chiti

Chlttu

Bond

Patra

Patramu

Pattiram

Broker

DaldU

Taragari

Taragan, dubdslii

Business

KeLasa

Pani or varta-
kamu

Vclai

Buyer

Kolluvava

Konevadu

Kojlu kiravnn

Capital

Muiadhana

Miiladhanamu

Mudarpanam

Charges

Kharchugalu

Sclavalu

Selavu

Commerce

Vydpdra

Vartakamu

Varuttagam

Constituent

Erpadisuvava

Niydmakudu

Viydpdri idattil pa-
nam vaittavan

Contract

Guttige

Gutta or idzdrd

Kuttagai

Credit

Parapatya

Dzama or para-
pati

Varavu

Creditor

Saldkoduvava

•

Appu ichchina-
vddu

Kadan koduttavan

Cti atom-house

Sunkada mane

Sdyaru kachch^ri A'yat turai

Date

T6di

Tdrikhu

Tcdi

Day-book

Dinapustaka

Kodzuchithchd

Kurip pedu

Debit

Khnrchu

Chellu or khar-
chu

Selavu

Debt

Sdla

Appu

Kadan

Debtor

yala gdra

Appu tisukonna-
vddu

Kadan fattavan

Delay

A'la.sya

Alasyamu

Tamasam

Demand

TagMc

Adagadamu

Tandal

Evasion

Chapdyis6na

Tappintsukova-
damu

Puiattu

• •

Excuse

Kcpa or vydja

Saku

Sdkku

Export

Raftu

Yegumati

Y6ttumadi

Factor

Mutdlika

Kothlddrudu

Viydpdri

Famine

K^hdma ^r bara Kdtakamu

Kashdmam, pan jam,

karuppu

Goods

Sdmdnu or ji-

. Samku

Sarukku

Grain

nasu
Dhdnya

Dhanyamu

Tdniyam

Handicraft

Kaikelasa

Shilpamu

Kaiv^lai

Import

Amadu

Digumati

Irakkumadl

Interest

-Baddi

Vaddi

\a\^

Lease

Patte

Kaulu or kar&ru

"Kutl^a^^A.

Jjeisttie

Sdrakdsba

airika

^ttiYaVtiSQaa

VOCABULABY.

»ect. J

English.

Kanabese.

Telugtt.

Ti^MIL.

Letter

Khattu

Uttaramu

Kadidam

Loan

Sdla

Cheyibadulu

Eadan

•

Loss

Na^h^a

Na^h^amu

Na§htam

Manufacture

Utpatti

S^tapani

Seyarkaip porul

Market

Baj&ru

Bajdru

Sandai

Memorandum

YAdAstu

Ydddstu

Merchant

Vartakanu

Vartakudu]

Varttagan

Merchandize

VyApdrajinasu

Vartakamu

Varttaga charakku

Message

Suddi

Vartamdnamu

Solli Anuppudal

Money

Hana

Rrtkalu

Panam

•

Mortgage

Adamdna

Tdkattu

Adagu

Note

Chlti

Purrtni

Slttu

Overplus

Migate

Petstsu

Vubari (bakki)

Packet

Tabalaktt

Katta

Sippam

Partner

Bhdgastanu or
pdlugdranu

• Pdlikdpu

Panguk kdran

Passport

Bahaddri

Rdddri slttu

Payment

Sanddya

Ivvadamu

Pananjeluttudal

Peddler

Hdkaru

Tirindu virkiravan

Penalty

Danda

Dandana

Tandam

Plenty

Vistdra

Vistdrarau

Migudi

Pledge

Adamdna

Tdkattu

Pdu

Post

Tapdlu or anche Tapdlu

Tapdl

Poverty

Daridra or ba-

• Ddridriya,mu

Tarittiram

•

datana

Price

Bele,dhdrane<?7
kraya

■ Vela

Kirayam

Principal

Asalu

Mudar panam

Profit

Ldbha

Adayamu

Ldbam

Property

Sottu

Bate

Dara

Dhara

Vidam

Keceipt

Kashidu

Rasidu

Pattu chlttu

Rent

Bddige

Adde

Vddagai

Sample

Mddari

Mddiri or mos-
taru

Mddiri

Scarcity

Bara

Arudu

Arumai

Seller

Mdruvavanu

Ammevddu

Virkij-avan

Shop

Angadi

Kadai

Signature

Oppa or das-

Ch?vrdlu or san-

Kai yezhuttu

katu

takamu

Sum -total

Aiitu

Verdsi

Mottam

'I'rade

Vydpdra

Vartakamu

Viydpdram

Trustee

JimmMara

Sommutana-pa-
ramugd-uiitsu-
konnavddu

Pofuppdli

Usage

A'chdra

Achdramu

Vazhakkam

Wages

Sambala

Jitamu

Sambalam

Warehouse

Ugrdna or
k6thi

Giddangi

Sdmdnkidangu

Wealth

Sariipattu

Bhdgyamu

Selvam

JVbarf

^'madu raftina

Digumatir^vu

Y^ttij-akkumadi pan

gha^Ja

vvwmidam

SSeot JU

VOCABULARY*

Enoush.

Kanabese.

Telugu.

Tamil.

Of Shipping.

Jakajige sdmd-

Vddalanu gur-

Ktipfmrgaltiik

nu y^rtJtuca

inchi.

kujrittu.

rifhaya.

Anchor

Langom

Jjaiigam

Nanguram

Boat

D6ni

Padava

Padagu(j>mlrivu,<v;w/.)

Cable

Jjanganihap^ga

Moku

Amaru k.ayini

Cargo

Jahajina sarakn Vadnsaruku

Kappar snrakku

Commander of

: St^naclhipati or

Adhikiiri

Kappaiadigari

forces

dalaviiyi

Compass

Digdarshiyan-

Kaiitapu Eiidi

Tisai arikanivi san-

tra

dapiKJtti

Ferry-boat

Haragolu

Done

O'dam

Flag

Kodl or nishAni

K(mU

Kodi

Mast

NdYcya kamba

Vadastambhamu

Piiymaram

Hate

{no word)

Zatakadu

Kappaladikarikkut-
tuiiaivau

Oar

Hutttt

Teddu

Taiidu

Pasflenger

Bh^^sari

Bhi'itasari

Pirayanak kt'iran

Prow

Jahajina mukha Vada mundari-

Kap])alin munpak-

pdxshva

tattu

kam

Bope

Hagga

Tadu'

•

Kayiru

Rudder

Uttu

Tsukkani

SukkAn

Sail

HAyi

VadatsApa

Kappar pay
KappalA)

Sailor

NdTigana

VAdavadu

• •

Stem

Tumbu

Vadayokka mun-

• Kappal irupurat tc-

dari bhdgamu

yum scrk kuDg
kattai

Twine

Saiiabina hurl

Dzanapuri

Sanar kayiru

Voyage

Samudra yiina

Sabaru

Kappal yattirai
PAy virikkumaram

Yard

Adda mara

Vadastambhapu

addakarra

Of Law and Ju^ XdnHnu ra vt/a" I^^ydya^ sathbaii'
dicial Mattcrtu validravifhaya' diuimaina vi^h-

gala htrita, ayamnlu.

Abuse Baigala Ti^tu

Acquittal
Adultery

Amputation

Arbitration

Arbitrator

Attorney

Award

Bail

Bribery

Civil Court
Chain
Clause
aerk

Bidugadi
HAdara or viya-

bhichAra
AngahinA

madona
Ma(^lhya8ta
MadhyastagAra
Vakllu
Tirim
JAminu
Laiichagu]i

tana
Addlutu kotu
Sarapani
Ktda
Mutsaddi

Vidudala
VyabhichAramu

Avayavachchc-

danamu
Madhyasthamu
Madhyasthudu
VakUu
Tirpu
DzAminu
Lantsamu

Vy avah Arasabha
(iolusu

PrakAranamu
Karaiiamu

Ktyaya. vhhaiyanga-
Icik kurit'tu,

Adikkira mittal

(tittu)
Vidudalai
VipasAram

Anga scdanam

PanjAyattu

PunjAyattuk kArau

Vaka

Tirppu

JAmin

Lanjam

Civil corttu
Vilangvi ^eaYi^\\V^
Pinvu

100

VOCABULARY.

Sect, t

English.

Confession

Convict
Conviction

Copy

Crime

Kanabese.

Oppikolluvike

or kabiilu
Tappitasthanu
Sdbitu

Karada or
nakalu

Tappu or tap-
pita

Telugu. Tamil.

Woppu k6va- Ottuk kolludal

damn

N^rasthudu Kuttavali
N6ramu sthdpint- Kuttavdli yenjni tir-

sadamu ma nittal

Naksilu Nakal

N^ramu

Kuttam

Criminal Court Faujuddri

Danda sabha-

Criminal Corttu

kouftu

Decree

Tirpu

Tlrpu

Tirppu

Defendant

Prativadi

Prativddi

Piradivddi

Deed

Patra

Patramu or kdry-

. Sddanapattiram

Denial

Inkdru

amu
L^danadamu

Majnittal

Divorce

Vivdha bandha
visai'jane

Parity agamu

Vivdgamosanam

Evidence

Sak§hya

Sdk^hyamu

Sdtchi

Executioner

Galligehd kuva-

■ Uridls6 bantr6tu

Tukkil p6du kiravan

Executor

VdllU.

Amalu nadisu-
vavanu

Nerav^rchevddu

•

Executor

Ex-parte

Ekapak.^ha

Yeka pak§hapu
vichdrana

Oru talai ydna

Fee

Rusum

Rusumu

Kattanam (dasturi)

Fine

Aparddha or
julumdne

Aparddhamu

Aparddam

Forgery

Sjishtanc

Tappu dastdv^zu Poyydy vundu pan-

srishtinchina

nudal

n^ramu

Gaol

Bandikhdne

Chera

Sirai chdlai

Gallows

Gallumara

Urimdnu

Tiikku maram

Highwayman

Ddrlkattuva-

Ddrikotti d6chd-

Vazhi katti pafippa-

kalla '

vddu

van

Hanging

Tiig6na

Uridfyadamu

Tiikkir p6du dal

Judge

Nydyddhipati

Nydyddiiipiti

Niydyddi padi

Legacy

Sdyuvdga itta

Marana shdsana

Marana sddana porul

^,8ti

purvakamuga
ichchina sottu

Legatee

Moktydrl pra-

Marana shdsana Marana sddana porul

kdra dstiya

prakdramu ds-

pettavan

tegadu kollu-

tini ponddvddu

vavanu

Murder

Kole

Khuni

Kolai

Murderer

Kolemddida-

Khiini chdsina-

Kolai ydli

vanu

vddu

Nonsuit

Nirvydjya

Vydjyamunu rad-
du cheyadamu

Vazhakkut tallunkai

Notice

Tstydru

Prakatana or
yeruka

Notis

Oatb

Pr8in^n«'i

Pram^inamu

^«A.l\^ftm

-Pardon

•

Manniinpu

■^«i\m^^"a

inannane

seot.i«

VOCABUT-ARY.

lUl

Englihu,

Kanarese.

Telugu.

Tamil.

Perjury

Tappupramdna

Apramdiiamu

Poy sdtchi

Plaintiff

VAdi

Vddi

Prison

Kaidukhdnc

Chcrasdla

Kaidu (kdval)

Prisoner

Bandivdna or

kaidi
Ruju

Kayidi

Kaidi

Proof

Ruzuvu

Ruju

Punishment

Dandanc

Shiksha

Tandanai

Quarrel

Jagaia

Bzagadamu

Sacbiaravu

Reader

O'duvavanu

Chadivevddu

Padippavan

Respite

Ta^edu idona

TIrpunilipipetta<

• Konja kdlattukku

damu

daiidnnai yai
nipiib yaittal

Right

Hakkuo/'
biidhyate

Bddhyata

Sudandiram

Scourge

Korade

Koradd

Adi

Sentence

Shik§hdtlrpu or
Nashidundme

' Tlrpu

Tlrmdnam

Suit

Vyavahdra or
vydjya

Vydjyamu

Viyd chiyam

Summons

Sammanu

Talabu chlti

Sommons

Testator

Maranashdsan-

Marana shdsan-

Marana sddanam

agdra

amu yrdsi
tsachch^vddu

ezhudi vaippayan

Theft

Kallatana

Dongatanamu

Tiruttu

Thief

Kaiianu

Donga

Tirudan

Tribunal

Nydyasthdna

Nydya s^halamu

Niydya stalam

Trial

Vichdrane

Visdranai

WiU

Maraiiashdsana

Marana^dsa-
namu

Maranasddanam

Witness

Sdkshi

Satchlk kdran

OfChveriV'

Dhoretanada

Doratanamiilann

', Dureittanaffalcik

ments.

vifhaya.

ffurinchi.

Jturittn.

Ally

Samdkhyeddra

Kattubdturddzu

Aikkiyamdna rdjd

Ambassador

Rdyabhdri

Stdnddi padi

Authority

Adhikdra

Adhikdramu

Adikdram

Alliance

Samdkhye

Vihitamu

Vudandai

Boundary

Sarahaddu

Polim6ra

Yellai

Canopy

Asamdnagiri

Pandili

Mer katti

Capital

Rdjadhdni

Rdja ddni

€ity

Patna

Pattanamu

Pattanam

Coin

Ndnya

Ndnyamu

Ndnayam

Courier

Harakdranu

Harkdrd

Tiidan

Crown

Kirita

Kirltamu

Kiridam

Dynasty

Rdjyabhdra

Doratanamu

Rdja yamisam

Deputy

Ndyabu

Iituiddn durai, piradi
durai

Duty

Kelasa or terige

Pani

Aluval

Edict

Niri^pa

Shdsanamu

Sattam

Emperor

Chakravarti

Bak kravarti

Empress

Sdrva bhaumini Chakravarti-

Irdnl

yokka bh&rya

"Excellency

Ghnnate

Shreshtbta

Sixop^u

Sxobequer

Khajdne

Bokka^uuu

l?oVs>L\ft\vai^«A,

102

VOCABULARY.

Sect I.

English.

Foreigner

Faction
Gentleman

Granary-
Inhabitant
Journey
King
Lane
Levee
Majesty
Mint
Monarch
Native

Night-watch
News
Nobleman
Patent

Pomp

Popiiace

Port

Province

Queen

Quarter

Kebellion

Republic

Retinue
Riot

Secretary
Signet

Spy

Stage
State

Street
Successor

Subject

Throne
Titles
Town
Traitor
Treaty
Treasurer

Kanabese. Telugu.

Parad^shada- Parad^shasthudu

vanu
Bajidukattu

• «

Doddamanu-

shyanu
Eanaja
Vdsasthanu
Praydnavu
Arasu
Sandu
Sabhe
Mahatwa
Teiikas^le
Bhilpati
Swad^shas-

thanu
Rdgdvalu
Samdchdra
Ganyastanu
Paravdne

Hemme

Prajdbdhulya

R6vu£>7*bandaru

D^sha

Rdni

Dikku or miile

Phitiiri

Ldvanapatti

Prajddhoretana

Parivdra
Gullu or kalaha
Kdryadarshi
Mudre-yu or

moharu
B^gugaranu
Majili
Sthitiyu or sam-

sthdnavu
Bidiyu
Uttarddhi-

kdriyu
Eulavu or

okkalu
Simhdsanavu
Biruddvaliyu
Patnavu
Dr6hiyu
Odambadikeyu
Kbajdnjiyn or
BokkasadsL-'
vanu

Kakshi
Peddamanishi

Dhdnyapukottu

Kdpurasthudu

Praydnamu

Rddzu

Sandu

Rdjadarshanamu

Mahima

Tankashdla

Rddzu

Swad^shasthudu

{no word)
Samdcharamu
Goppa mani^hi
Niitana kalpand-
dhikdrapatrika
Jambhamu
Prajalu
Vddar6vu
Tdllikd
Rdni
P6ta

•

Rdjadr6hamu
Lekka or lekka

pett6 vddu
Prajaia dorata-

namu
Parivdramu
AUari

Kdiyadarshi
Mudra

V6gulavddu

Majili

Rdjyamu

Vidhi
Vembadigdvach-

ch^vddu
Kdpu

Simhdsanamu

Birudulu

Pattanamu

Drihi'

Samddhdnamu

EhaidBi\

Tamil.
Anniya d^sattdn

Kdtchi
Durai

Kalanjiyam

Kudiydnavan

Piraydnam

Rdja

Teru chandu

Pirabu tarisanam

M^nmai

Taaga sdlai

Mahdrdja

Sud^sattdn

Jdmam
Samdchdram
Pirabu
Patent

Dambam

Pirasai (kudigal)

R6vu (turai)

Nddu

Rdjdtti

Tisai [gam

Kudigaludaiya kala-

Padivu pustagam(per

vazhik kanakku)
Kudi Arasu nddu

Parivdram
Kalddi (sandai)
Kdriya darisi
Muttirai

V6vu kdran

Majil

Irdchiyam

Teru
Pinvandavan

Kudi

ngdsanam
tarn

Pattanam

• • •

Vanjagan

Samdddna pattirikai
^Qk^iBhak kdran

Sect L

VO0ABUL.VRY.

103

English.
Tribute

Traveller

Tyrant

TJsiirper

Umbrella of

state
Viceroy

Kakabese.
Kappavu or

k&nike
Bbdtes^yu
JanakaAt&l^ana
Apah^yu

Bdjachhatriyu
Divdnanu

Prqfesnons and VruWuj/afu va

Trades, Vy&paragaln,

Armourer Ayudhagdranu

Artificer

Artist

Baker

Beggar

Blacksmith

Bookseller

Brazier
Bricklayer
Butcher
Carpenter

Confectioner

Cook
Dancing-girl

Pruggist

Dyer

Farrier

Green-grocer
Grocer

Goldsmith
Horse-breaker

Hunter
Jeweller

Yantrag^ranu

Shilpal^rana

BottiyaTanu

Bhik^hakanu
Kamm&ranu
Pu6tnk4 mdra-

yayanu
Kaiichugdranu
Eimd^aifdranu
Katikanu
O'janu or ba-

digeyavanu
Mithdyi garanu

Adige yavanu
Siileyu

Gandiganu

Banndkattuva-

vanu
L4U kattuva-

vanu or ash-

wa vaidyanu

Kdyi palyagala

angaidi yavanu

T^yele sakkare

munt4da an-

gadiyavanu
Ald^sdleyu
Ashwashik-

shakanu
B^teg&ranu
Batnayartakanu

Telugu.
Kappaniu

Bhdtasdri

Knirudu

Akramintsukon-

nayd4u
Bdjaehhatramu

Yuvardja

Vrittulu vffdpd*

ramulu,
Ayudhamulu ch^-

s^vddu
Bhilpi '
Shilpi
Bottelukdlch^

Y^du

_ •

Bitsag&du
Karamaiayddu

•

Pustakamulam-

m^vddu
Eantsaravddu

•

Tdpigddu

Katikav&du

Va^lavddu

Mithayichdsi am-

m^vddu
VaAtavAdu
B6gamudi

Mandula-angadi-
vddu

•

Tsdyav^seyddu

L&damukatt^-
T^du, s&iiistri

Ktiragdyalu-am-
m^vddu

•

Chillara sarukulu
amm^vddu

•

Kamsalayddu
Ashwashik^ha-
kudu

•

V^tagddu
Batn&layarta-
kudu

Tamil.
Eappam

Pdttai sAri

Kodung61arasan

Abagarikkiravan

Pii chakrak kudai

•

Arasanukku yadil
A|u kirayan

JbzJtll viydp&ranga],

Ayudan jeykirayan

Sirpan

Sittira y61aik k&ran

Bot^iki^angukkdran

Pichaikkdran
KarumAn
Pustagam yirkirayan

KannAn

Kollattuk kAran
KasApk kAran
Tachan

MittAy kadaik kdran

Samaiyal sey gipiyan
NAttiyap pen (dAsi,

com,)
Marundu sarakku yi-

yApAri
SAyak kdran

L^ang kattu gira-
yan

Kdy kizhangu yir

kirayan
Palasarakku kadaik

kdran

TattAn

Kudirai pazhakku-
gifayan

Ydttail^ kdran
Yudaimal pannu gl-
rayan, irattina

Juggler

fr/imdigai^i}

P^radividdeg&^u ^i^p«^V\\iu8Sii;.

104

VOCABUTiARY.

Sect. 1.

English.

Kaxabese.

Telugc.

Tamil.

Linen-draper

Eatt6 varta-

Battalavartakudu Javulik kadaik kdran

kanu

Musician

Sangitagdranu

Vddyagddu

Vdttiyak kdran

Painter

OhitragSranu

Chitragddu

Varnak kdmu

Physician

Vaidyanu

Vaidyudu

Vaittiyan

Ploughman

Uluvavanu

Dunnevddu

Vuzhavan

Porter

Kiilivanu

Kiilivddu'

•

Miittaik kdran, sum-
aiydl, samai yedu
kimva

Eopemaker

HaggAmdduva-

. Tdlluv^siamm^-

Kayiru tirik kiravan

vanu

vAdu

Saddler

Jinugdranu

JinulukuttiAchi-
amm^vidu

JIni taik kiyavan

Sculptor

Kettigegiranu

Shilpi

Padumai sedukku ki-
rivan, sittiraii kot-
tagij-avan

Shepherd

Kurabanu

Gollavddu

•

Attidaiyan

Shopkeeper

AngadigAranu

Aiigadivddu

KaVlaik kdran

Sawyer

Garagasada-

Bampagddu

Vdl v61aik kdran

Shoemaker

YallU

Muchchiganu

Muchchelukutte-
vddu

■ Sodu taik kiravan

Singer

Hdduvavanu

Pdtakudu

Pddagan

Surgeon

Shastra vaidy-

OT111

Vrana vaidyudu

Raiia vaittiyan

Tailor

dillU

Chippiganu or
darjiyu

' Dai-jivddu

Taiyar kdran

Turner

Kadctahidiyu-

Tarimenapatte-

Kadai chap kdran

•

vavanu

vddu

Vintner

Oyin sdrdya

Woyinu sardyi

Tirdtcha sdrdyam

vartakanu

ammevddu

vir kiravan

Waterman

Nirinavanu

Nillutechclie-

Tannirk kdran

vddu

Weaver

]S[6yuvavana

Sdlevddu

•

Seniyan, neygiravan

Workshop

Kelasada-

Panich^s^stha-

TozMr sdlai

maneyu

lamu

AnvU

Adigallu

DdgaU

Pattadai

Awl

Bairigeyu

Are

Seruppu taik kij-a-
viisi (seruppiisi)

Axe

Kodliyu

Goddali

K6ddli

Brush

Kiirchavu

Burusu

Purusu

Chisel

Uli

Vuli

Compasses

KaivAravu

Kundali yan-
tramu

Kampdsu

Enamel

Chitravarnada-

(no word)

iPalavamappalingu

kelaaavu

v61ai

Pile

Aravu

Akurdyi

Aram

Fish-hook

Gdlavu

Gdlamu

Tiindil mul

Furnace

Kolumiyu,
agi^htigeyu

Kolimi

Valaik kdlam, siilai

Gilding

Muldm

Moldmpani

Pon muldm

Glue

FajraFU

Vajramu

Vachiram

ffamj^er

iSammatigeyu
p^' suitigeyn

Sutte

?»\x\X\

Sect. I.

VOCABULARY.

105

English.

Hand-mill
Inlay (to)
lane
Loom
Leather

Mallet
Mould

KaU
Net
Paint

Plane
Press
Ruler

Saw

Sieve

Screen

Shuttle

Tool

Water-mUl
Wind-mill

Wedge
Wire

Kakabese.
Kaigdnavu
Appige
Sdlu, pankti
Maggavu
Chaldcalayu,

charmavu
Kodatiyu
Aclichu yeraka-

vu or mannu

•

Mole, uguru
Bale
Baniiavu, var-

navu
Hatri, bosalu
Tasseyu
Kiilu kattige

Garagasa

Jarade

Mare

Ldli

Ayudha or ha-

ty4ru
Jalayantra
Gdliyantra

GiUa or bene
TaAti

Teluqu. Tamil.

Chinna tiragali Kai ^ndiram
Chekkadapu pani Padippu vdlai
Pai*rgkti, glta Kayipu

Maggamu Nejryal taji

T61u Padanitta t61

Koyya sutte
P6taatst6U

Chlla

Vala

Varnamu

•

Chitrika

Atstsu

liiilukarra

Bampamu

Dzalleda

Tera

Kdde

Koramuttu

JaLayantramu
Gdlitiragali

M(3ku
Tanti

Sclwol and

tiali va vidya-

• Hadif or shastra^

College.

shale.

pathaahala

Author

Granthakarta

Ball

Chaudu

Ohcndu

Bat

Dodde

Atal6 chcndu

tatte karra

Blot

Chittu

Tudupu

Book

Pustukavu

Pustakamu

Chapter

Adhydyavu

Adhydyamu

Column

Patakavu

Varasa

Conclusion

Muktdya

Mugimpu

Copy

Nakalu, karadd

Nakalu

Dictionary

Akarddiyu

Nighantuvu

Dnnce

Daddanu

Dzadudu

Education

Viddeyu

Tsaduvu

Exercise

Sddhaka

Sddhakamu

Fable

Kattu kathe

Katha

History

Charitra

Index

Siichi

Ink

Shdyi

Shird

Leaf

Bandu

(of a tree), dku ;
(of a book),
patramu

l,ectnr^

Upanjisif,

Pras^ngaiQu

Kottdppuli (kottan)
Achu

A'ni

Valai

Vaynam

Slvuli

Alai (sugar-press)

Vurulaik kat^ai (maj-

tappalagai)
Vdl

Salladai
Padal'
Niindzhi
Ayudam

Nlryandiram
Kdttdl iyakkappa-

dumyantiram
Appu
Kambi

Palli kildam.

Kalvlcluilai.
Kiranda karttan
I'audu
Pandadikkung kol

Karai

Pustagam

Addiydyam

Patti

Niilmudi^ai

•

Piradi

Agarddi

Miidan

Padippu

Appiydsam

Kattukkadai /

Sarittiram

At^avanai

Mai

Y6du

106

VOCABULARY.

Sect. I.

English.

Lesson

Line

Margin

Maxim

Page

Paper

Pasteboard

Pen

Pencil

Pen-knife

Play

Play-fellow

Play-ground

Poet

Preface

Professor

Prose

Proverb

Rule
Rhyme
Rod
Scholar

School

School-hours

School-master

Section

Student

Teaching

Tutor

Verse

Writing

Word

Colowts,
Black
Blue
Brown

Dun
Green
Indigo
Lilac

Orange

Purple

Red

Scarlet
Spotted
Striped
VermiUott

Kanabese.
Pdtha
Pankti
Anchu
Paddhati
Puta

•

Edgada

Kdgadada atte

P6nA

Shlsada kaddi

Chiiri

Ata

Jotegdra

Atadasthala

Kavishvara

Plthike

•

Shikshakanu

Yachanakdvya

Gdde

Siitra
Prdsa
K61u
Vidydrthi or

paudita
SdU

SAleya v^legal
Upddhydyanu
Prakarana

•

VidyArthi

Ealis6na

PaAt6ji

Shl6ka or pada

Baraha

Mdtu

Baunaga\u.
Kari varna
Nila varna
Shydmala varna

Biida varna
Hasaru varna
Nila varna
Kdgu varna

Nimbe hannina

•

varna
U'dd varna
Keiicha varna
Sindhi!ira varna
Machcheyulla

Gereh&kida,

Jngalikfk

Teluqu.
Pdthamu
Paikti
Pakka

Nitivdkyamu
Puta, porata
Kdkitamu
Atta
P6nA
Pensalu
Tsdku
Ata

Adukon6vAdu
Adukon6ts6tu
Kavi
Plthika
Panditudu
Yachanamu
Sdmita

Siitramu
AAtaniyamamu
Bettamu
Vidydrthi

Badi

Badikdlamu

Upddhydyulu

Sanchika

Vidydrthi

N^rpadamu

Upddhydyudu

Padyamu

Vrdta

Mdta

•

Rangulu,
Nalupu
Nllavamamu
Pandutdkuvar-

namu
Kapila
Akupatstsa
Nllivarnamu
Ddsdnipuwu var

namu
Ts6tdkichchili- Ponnii*am

panduvarnamu
U'ddvarnamu
Yerupu
Sindiiravarnamu

•

Tsukkalugala

Gitalnv^yabadda

IngUikapuvat'

Tamil.
Pddam

•

Yari
O'ram
Pazhamozhi
Pakkam
Kaduddsi
Attai
P6nd
Pensil
P^ndkatti
Yilaiydttu
Yiiaiydttu t6zhan
Yilai yddugij^ idam
Kavirdyan
Mugavurai
Asiriyan
Ydsagam

Nidimozhi (pazha-
mozhi)
Siittiram
Yedugai
Tandippuk k61
Pallik kiidattup pillai

Pallik kiidam
Pallik kiidattu v61ai

• • • •

Upavdttiydr
Pirivu
Mdudk kan
Karpittal
Karpik kiravan
Pdttu
Yezhuttu
Vdrttai

Nifaiigal,
Kapippu
Nila nifam
Pazhuppu ni]*am

Mangal nipim
Pachai
Nllam
Yen sivappu

Indira nllam

Sevappu

Iratta

Kapai

KlTU

oecc 1.

VOCABULARY.

107

English.

Kanabese.

Telugu.

Tamil.

White

Bill vania

Telupu

Venmai

YeUow

Haladi vania

Pasupu

Manjal niram

TheSe7i8€8.

Indriyagalu,

Jiidriyamulu.

Intlrlijangal.

Hearing

Shr6tr6ndJiya

Vinadamu

O'sai ; (sound) Kelvi

^^Ing

Chak^urift-
driya

Tsi!i4a(himu

Oji ; (light) Pdrvai

Smelling

Ghr^eiidriya

Ydsana tsiida-
damu

■ Ndttam

Tasting

Basan^ndriya

Buchitsiidadamu

Suvai

Touchuig

Sparsh^idriya

Tdkadamu

Viiru

Element

Bhiita

Bhiitamu

Prtdam

Figure

Biipa, pratime

Ak^ramu

Biibam

Fragrance

ViiRane

Vdsana

Viisanai

Hardness

Kiitl^inya

Kdthinyamu

Kadinam

•

Beflection

(thought) yo-

• Yochana ; (image)

1 Piradi vimbam

chane ;

pratiphala-

(image) pra-

namu

tiphaJ£Uia

BeliRh

Buchi

Viruppam

Speech

VAkku

Viikku

P^sudal

Sflence

Mauna

Maunamu

Mavunam

Shade

Neralu

Nida

Nizlial

Size

Akiira

Pramdnamu

Piramdiiam

Softness

Mdrdavya

Mettaua

Meduvu

Sonnd

Shabda

Dhwani

Sattam

View

Drishti

Tsiipu

Pdrvai

Admiration

Ashcharya

Aslicharyamu

Adisayam

Anger

E5pa

Kopamu

Kobam

Awe

Hedarikc

Bhayamu

Payang karam

BeUef

Nambike

Nammika

Nambikkai

Choice

Pasandu

Ishtamu

Isht»m

Compassion

Karune

Kanikaramu

Irakkam

Curiosity

Kutiihala

Telusukovale-

Vin6dam (rarity) ;

nan6 ichchha

desire to know,
ariya v6ndum yeu-
gi]ra ichai

Dislike

Asammati

Veruppu

Doubt

Saiid^ha

Sandehamu

Sand^gam

Emulation

Spardhc

P6tl

Vellu muyaychi iga-
Idttam

Envy

Hott<^kichchu

•

Asiiya

Por^ai

Enjoyment

Bh6ga

Anubhavamu

Anubhavam, inbam

Error

Tappu

Pizhai

Fear

Anjike

Bhayamu

Payam

Friendship

Sn^ha

Sn^hamu

Sn6gidam

Guilt

Tappita

N6ramu

Kuttam

Happiness

Sukha

Saukhyamu

Pdkkiyam

Hatred

Hage

Vir6dhamu

Pagai

Hope

K6rike

K6rika

K6rikkai

Honour

MaryAde

Gaurayamu

Perumai, kanam

Ignominy

Avam&na

Avamdnamti

IzYirrvi

J^omncQ

A-gj^na,

Aviy^kamu

1U»

VOCABULARY,

sect. 1.

English.

Kanaeese.

Telugu.

Tamil.

Jealousy

Asiiye

W6rtsal6nitana-

Kur6dam, yerion

Joy

Sant6sha

Sant(5shamu

Sand6sliam, pora-

•

Knowledge

Gydna or vidde

Gnydnamu

mai
Aqrivu

Love

Sn^ha or m6ha

M6hamu, dsha

Anbu

Mercy

Daye

Kanikaramu

Kirubai

Misery

Daurbhdgya

DaurbhAgyamu

Tunbam

Memory

Gydpaka

Gnyapti, g^'dpa-
kamu

Gndpagam

Opinion

Abhiprdya

Abhiprdyamu

Abippirdyam

Pain

B6ne

Noppi

N6vu

Pleasure

UllAsa.

Santoshamu

V6dikkai, (spectacle)
inbam

Beason

Kdrana

H^tuvu

Putti

Kefusal

Nirdkarane

Yaddanadamn

Majnttal

Shame

Ndchike

Siggu

Vetkam

Sorrow

Vyasana

Vyasanamu

Visanam

Temper

Guna

Gunamn

Kunam

Understanding

Buddhi

TeUvi

TeliVu

•

Vanity

Ahankdra

Ahankdramu

Serukku

Wisdom

Viv6ka

Viv^kamu

Viv6gam, gndnam

Zeal

Shraddhe

Sbraddba

Sirattai ; (religious
zeal, vairakkiyam)

There are six well-defined linguistic boundaries. In N. Ganjam a
portion of the people speak Uriya. Telugu is spoken generally in the
N. Sarkilrs, in part of the Nizam's dominions, Kamul, Kadapa, part
of N. Arkdt, Kelliir, and part of Balldri. Tamil is spoken from a
few m. N. of Madras to the extreme S. Malayalam is the language
of Travankor, Kochin, and Malabdr. Kanarese in parts of Balldri,
Koimbatur, Salem and S. Kanara.

$lGciL

DIALOGUES.

109

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DIALOGUES.

121

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Sect. I,

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DIALOGUES.

125

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Sect. I.

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Sect. I.

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134

DIALOGUES.

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ao^y-^

^ ixi ^^ ^

INDIAN TERMS USED IN THIS BOOK.

[A. signiftes Arabic ; H. Hind&sUni or Hindi ; K. Kanarese ; Mat MalayiUam ; ^L
HariStbi ; My. Malay ; P. Persian ; S. Sanskrit ; Tel. Teliigu ; Tur. Turkish ; T. Tamil.]

AhkXm, a. pi. of Awiwi, " orders."

AMfB (Ameer), A. " commander," a title of princes and nobles, as the

Amirs of Sindh.
AnI (Anna), H. the 16th part of a rupee, or about three half -pence,

valuing the rupee at 2s,
Andora, Mai. the 10th class of Nairs, who are potmakers by profession.
Anaka^t (Anient), Tel. adda, " between," katfVf " to bind, a dam or

embankment.
Ayat, Terse of the Kurdn,
Babul, A. a tree of the tamarisk kind.
Bahadub, p. "brave," "chivalric," a title of honour among Mu^am-

madans.
BajrA (Budgerow), H. a large, round-bottomed boat, without a keel.
Baman, S. the 5th incarnation of Vishnu, in the shape of a dwarf.
BanglA (Bungalow), H. a thatched house, the name usually applied to

the houses of the English in India, and to the houses for travellers

built by Government on the public roads.
BiGAM (Begum), Tur. a lady of rank, a queen or princess.
Bhata (Batta), H. additional allowance to public servants or soldiers

employed on special duty.
Bbahmak, S. a Hindii of the fist, or priestly caste.
Buddhist, S. a worshipper of Buddh, or Sakya Muni, who died B.C. 643.
Bazab, p. a market, or market-place.
Caste, class, sect, corruption of the Portuguese casta or race.
Catamaran, T. leaftVf "to bind," vutrantj " a tree," a log-raft on which

the natives of Madras paddle through the surf.
Chakra, S. a discus, the quoit of Vishnu.
Chausar, S. Hindii, dice.

Charnadu, Mai. the 3rd class of Nairs, who are accountants.
Chawadi, Tel. a native rest-house for travellers.
Choultry, an English corruption of ChAwadi, q,v,
Chunam, S. an English corruption of H. chiina, from S. cMrnahf lime,

a plaster or mortar made of shells of a remarkable whiteness and

brilliance.
Compound, My. an enclosure. A corruption of the Malay word,

Daghopa or Dahgop, S. fJeh, "the body," gup^ "to hide," a circular
structure inside Buddhistic cave temples, supposed to contain the
ashes or relics of Buddha, and occupying the place of our altars.

Darbab (Durbar), P. a royal court, an audience or levee.

Dhabam SlLA, S. dlMt-ma, "justice," "piety," mv^l «li6Xii,^^^V"8».*C^ ^
place of accommodation for traveUCTB VQid ipW^iiv^

136 INDIAN TERMS USED IN THIS BOOK. Seot. I.

DiwAn, p. " a royal court," " a minister ; " especially the chief financial

minister.
Dboog or Dbug, S. an English corruption of durga, " a fort."
DUBASH, do J "two," IMsh&f " language ; " one who speaks two languages,

an interpreter.
Fakib, a. <'poor ; " a religious man, who has taken the vow of poverty,
GanA, S. an attendant of Shiva.
Gabisha, Tel. a measure of grain = 400 markhdls, or 185*2 cubic ft., or

9860 lb. avoirdupois.
Ghat (Ghaut), S. ghatta^ "a landing-place," " steps on a river side ; " a

mountain leading up, like a step, to a tableland.
GOPUBA, S. from gnp^ " to preserve ; " the gate of a Pagoda.
GuMASHTAH, P. an agent.
GUHBAZ, a building with a cupola.
liAHMAL, A. a bearer of a pdlkl.
^AVALDAB, H. an officer in native regiments corresponding to our

sergeant.
H6m, S. sacrifice.
HUKKAH (Hookah), A. a pipe.
liuzuB, A. the royal presence, a respectful term applied to collectors,

judges, or o&er high officials.
Ilavas, T. a tribe in Tinnevelli and S. Tiruvankodu (Travankor).
Jagib, p. a tenure by which the public revenues of an estate or district

were granted to an individual, with powers to collect them, and

administer the general affairs of the place.
Jam'adab, a. a native officer next to a Siibahddr, and corresponding to

our lieutenant,
KachebI or Kachhabi, H.M. a court or office for public business.
Kalam, T. a disease affecting the tobacco plant.
» Kalamah, the creed of Isldm.

KATOpi, M. a wild tribe inhabiting the Sahyddri range.

Khan*, A. a title of nobility answering to our " lord."

KHAi^Di (Candy), M. a measure of weight and capacity : in Madras =

500 lb. ; in Bombay, 560 lb.
Khii^, M. a narrow pass between mountains.
KiL'Ai>AB, A. the commander of a fort.

Kimkhwab (Kimcob), P. silk stuff interwoven with gold and silver.
KiBt^M, Mai. the highest class of Nairs.

KoLis, M. a caste in the Koilkan and Guj^&t, who are fishermen, water-
men, and robbers.
KOTABAM, T. a palace.
EUBBAH, A. a dome.

KULf (Cooly), T. and Tur. a day labourer.
EUMBi, M, a farmer, a farm labourer.
Lakh (Lac), S. the number 100,000.
Lat or LAth, " a pillar ; " ancient Hindii pillars on which inscriptions

were set up in an old and obsolete character.
MalA, S. a garland.
Man (Maund), H. a weight, varying in different parts of Lidia. In

Bombay it is 25 lb. ; in Bengal, since 1833, 87f lb.
Mandapam, S. an open pavilion or porch in front of a temple.
Massulah, T. a boat sewed together, used for crossing the surf at
Madras,
Monsoon, A, a corruption of the A. maiism^ " o^ Be^aou '^'^ «^\>\iftdL now to
iAe periodical raina in India,

Sect I. INDIAN TERMS USED IN THIS BOOK. 137

MoBTT, T. a Toda or Tuda village.

MahAbs, M. a low caste in the Bombay Presidency.

MUKWAB, T. a low caste in Malabar.

MTTNBHt (Moonshee), A. a writer, a secretary, a teacher of languages.

MuNgiF, A. a native judge of the 3rd class.

NACHf 8. a dance, an exhibition of dancing-girls.

Nao, S. the cobra snake.

Naik, S. an officer in native armies corresponding to a corporal.

I9A1JBAT KHANAH, A. the guard-room, the chamber over a gateway,

where a band is stationed.
NIADIS, Mah. an outcast tribe of Malabdr.
KcsiJf , A. an arranger ; a title of the prince whose capital is I^aidar^bdd

in the Dakhan.
NuwAb, a. this word means lit. *^ deputies," being the plural of nd*ibf

** a deputy." It is now a title of governors,
Paooda, p. an Anglican corruption of the P. word hut-Jtadah, ^* an idol

temple ; " aSo a coin =34 rupees, called by the natives hUn, but

deriving its appellation of pagoda from its showing a temple on

one face.
PAl-AL, T. the priests of the Toda tribe, lit. " milkmen."
Palegab (Polygar), T. Tel. a shareholder, a landed proprietor. A title

of native chiefs in the Madras Presidency.
Palanqueen, H. an Anglican corruption of the word pdUd^ a sedan in

which persons of rank are carried on men's shoulders.
Pan, 8. the leaf of the betel tree.

PABSfs, P. a caste who worship the Deity under the emblem, fire.
PABwAfiis, H. people of low caste.
Pb-KOVIL, T. " devU-temple," a hut dedicated to the worship of the spirits

of dead men.
Peons, H, an Anglican corruption of the word piyddah, " footman."
PTSSHyARS, p. an agent. In Bengal, the native officer under a judge,

next to the Sarishtaddr in rank.
PSSHKASH, P. tribute, an offering from an inferior to a superior.
Pkshwa, p. the prime ministers of the R4j4s of S4t&r4, who afterwards

b^me the supreme chiefs of the Mard^ha nation.
Pb'ta, Tel. native town or suburb.
PhatemAb, M. litf " a letter carrier," a sailing vessel common on the W.

coast of India.
Phins, T. the Tuda name for the stone circles on the Nilgiris.
PlCEj H. a corruption of the wordpaUd, a copper coin, of which 64 go to

a rupee.
PfB, P. old, a Mul^ammadan saint.
, BajA, S. a Hindii king or prince.
RAifOSts, 8. a tribe in the Dakhan who are watchmen and thieves.
Ban!, S. the wife of a Rdjd, a queen or princess.
Bath, 6. a chariot.
Begimbntdabs, E. and P. a commissioned native officer in the Maisdr

Horse.
BiSALAHDAB, A. a native captain of a troop of horse.
Byot, a. an Anglican corruption of the A. word r'aiyaty a subject, a

peasant.
ISadb Amin, a. a native judge of the highest class.
$ADB 'Adalat, a. the Supreme Court of Justice Vxv IxkiSciSu \a\ X-Tyca^

appeals.
Sahib, A. lord, a title applied to English gentlemea m "ixi!S^»

138 INDIAN TERMS USED IN THIS BOOK. Sect. I.

SAKTf , S. a goddess, the personified power of a deity.

SabpeshkAbs, p. a non-commissioned officer in the Maisiir Horse.

Sabzafabdabs, p. a commissioned officer in the Maisiir Horse.

Sati (Suttee), S. the burning of a widow with her deceased husband.

Shah, P. a kmg, the title usually applied to the King of Persia.

ShAnabs, T. a tribe in Tinnevelli and the extreme S. of India, who are
palm-tree climbers by profession.

Shankh, S. a shell, the large shells which are blown as horns by the
Hindiis.

Shola, T. a patch of jungle, a wooded dell.

Shudba, S. ihe 4th or lowest caste of Hindiis.

SlPAHf (Sepoy), P. a native soldier, one of a sipdh or army.

ShibandI (Sieeljandy), M, an auxiliary, a soldier of a native auxiliary
levy.

§uBAH, A. a province.

Subahdab, a. a governor of a province, a native military officer corre-
sponding to a captain.

TAH8f LDAB, A. a native collector of revenue.

Taj, p. a crown, the name of a magnificent mausoleum at Agra.

T'ALUK, or more properly td'allukahj a district, a division of a province.

TappAl, H. the post, delivery of letters.

Tatti, M. matting, especially of bambii.

Tbbi BIS, T. the temples of the Tuda or Toda ti-ibe.

TuDAS, T. a remarkable tribe on the Nllgiri Hills.

TUGULTIS, T. dangerous quagmires on the Nilgiris.

TuBBAT, A. a tomb.

Vazib, a. a prime minister.

ViHABA, S. a cell, an apartment in a monastery,

ViLLiAM, T, the 4th class of Nairs, who are farmers.

ViMANA, 8. a sacred vehicle or shrine.

WuTZ, K. Indian steel.

ZafabdAbs, a. a non-commissioned officer in the Maisiir Horse.

ZamIndab, p. a landed proprietor.

ZiAB, T. a low caste in Malabar.

Zil'a (Zillah), A. a province or tract, constituting the jurisdiction of a
circuit judge.

The following abbreviations are used in the Routes given in this
book : —

b. Bungalow Properly Bangld.

h J * n S BangU and Tappdl or
o.dsuo. ... I ^g^^.^^ post-office.

div Division of the army.

( Dharam Sdld, a native
dh < house of accommo-

( dation for travellers.

E. I, C. East India Company.

E, East.

f. Furlong.

ft Feet.

iu, Inch.

^. MHq.

Q 5 Cross two n&las (nul-

"^ ^^'- ••• ) lahs).

N. North.

p Page.

•p.o Post-office.

rd Road.

r River.

r,l.h River left bank.

r.h Right bank.

rs Rupees.

Roy. As. Soc. Royal Asiatic Society.
S. South.

jr. West.

n. Nallah i ^^Pcr^jN^laorn&labjlyds Xwv\s»

' / " water-course." \

SECTION II.
— f—

MADRAS CITY.

Landing Plaoe—K&inf Ilarhour—Tlie Pier— The LiglithouMe—The Club-^
HoteU-^Conreyanceit — The Fort — The Grand Arsenal—St, Manfs Church —
Old Tomh on the Esplanade — Paclieappah Schmtl—The Jail — TJie Hospital —
The Chvemment House— Tlie Governor's Country House — The Statue of Sir T,
Jfunro—The NawAh of the Xarndtlh's Palace — The Promenade by the Sea^
shore— The Statue of Colofwl NeiU—The Cathedrals Other Churches— TIte
JAttle Mount— Tlie Model ihrm—Tlie Pace- Course— Tite Great Mount— The
Mtuekm — The Public Gardens — TJie Principal Shops — The Observatory —
The Charities of Madras— The College— The Italhray Stations,

Os the first appearance of the build-
ings of Madras City from the sea, the
stranger most feel sar})riscd how so
great a capital, with a pop. of 397,552
(see Madras Census Rci)ort for 1871,
p. 9) should have grown up on such an
exposed coast, with apparently so little
canyenience for trade. But the whole
line of coast, from Ceylon to Orissa,
has not one convenient harbour. It is
also the &ct that though Madras has
onlj an open roadstead, where the
surf breaks in thunder during rough
weather, and has no great river near it
to bring down products from inland
regions, yet it has a substitute in a
long series of canals, the line of which
passes through the town southward to
Sadras,and northward to the Goddvari.
By means of these canals and good
n^ds into the interior, a vast amount
of goods of all kinds is brought to this
seemingly unpromising spot; and it
was long since seen that, could a safe
harbour be made by artificial means,
there was nothing to prevent Madras
becoming a place of great commercial
importance.

JLanding Place, — From time imme-
morial'the system of landing and cm-
barking paBsoBgers and cargo at
Madras nsed to he by means of what
juv called Masiila boats, which are
canstracted of mango wood, caulked

with straw, and sewn together with
cocoa-nut fibre. Ships anchor in the
roads at half a mile to a mile from the
shore ; the Masiila boat pulled off
alongside, received cargo at the gang-
way, and was beached through the surf.
Sometimes it happened that the boat
was split up when it struck the beach,
and when the sea is high the rise and fall
of the boat alongside a ship is as much as
25 ft., making it difficult and danger-
ous to disembark. Ladies used to be
tied in chairs, and lowered into the
boat from the ship's yard-arm. In 1860
landing was rendered less difficult by
the construction of an iron pier, which
projects 300 yds. into the sea, opposite
the Custom House, The pier is 20 ft.
above the sea, has stairs down to the
water, cranes for landing or embark-
ing cargo, and rails leading to the
Custom House to convey goods to and
from the landing-place. But even this
improvement left very much indeed to
be desired. Much time was lost and
much property sacrificed in the effort
to maintmn communication between
ship and shore. But, in addition to
this normal loss and inconvenience,
there was always the doa^Y c>S. <s^-
clones, for 'w\v\c\v'^«»!aLKk&V'w^\*iK^ ':sv^i
too notoTvovia. TVlw-a g^ ^^ ^"^ ^"^
October, n^^,*!^ ^«5^«S}L«t ^iX^a^^^'

140

Madras City,

Sect. II.

nais, there was a dreadful cyclone, in
which the Ihicd*OrleanSf Phcenix. and
Ia/8 foundered with upwards of 1 ,200
men. The Mermaid and Advice^ prizes,
also went down; and the flagship
Aohille was dismasted, and saved with
difficulty after the lower guns had been
thrown overboard. There were 20
other vessels in the Madras roads
during the storm, and not one escaped.
At Pondicherry this hurricane was not
felt. On the 20th of October, 1782,
there was another cyclone at Madras,
attended with dreadful loss of life.
Again, on the 10th of December, 1807;
and again, on the 2nd of May, 1811,
frightful hurricanes occurred. On the
latter occasion the Dover frigate and
CJiiohester storeship foundered, and 90
country vessels went down at their
anchors. Only 2 vessels that were in
Madras roads when the storm began
were saved, and these put out to sea.
During this hurricane the surf broke
at 4 m. distance from the shore. On
the 2nd of May, 1872, there was an-
other great storm, in which 9 European
vessels of large size and 20 native
vessels of altogether 4,133 tons were
lost. There are many other dreadful
storms on record, but enough has been
said to show how necessary it was to
attempt the construction of an artificial
harbour. The difficulty of this, how-
ever, was great. Madras lies low, from
about mean sea level to 24 ft. above
it. The ^ore is sandy, stretching in
nearly a straight line from N. by E.
to S. by W. for many miles. Thus
ther^ is no creek or bay or other
natural facility for forming a harbour.
The sand along the coast is unusually
flat seawards, reaching a depth of 10
fathoms only at a distance of a mile
from the shore, and to this may be
partly attributed the peculiarity of the
Madras surf. The winds on this coast
are called monsoons (from the Ai'abic
maitsinif "a season.") That from the
S.W. blows from April to October, and
that from the N.E. from October to
ApriJ, There are, of course, excep-
tjonal winds. The S.W, monsoon
bjieezes are for the most part light.

b^f^'^^^^r, ^^^^ 2 and 3 p.m. the
^. ^^ the plains draws in a S.E.

breeze from the sea, which tempers
the Madras summer, continuing till 8
or 9 P.M., and then veering to W. Tlie
N.E. monsoon brings the rainy season,
which is from November to January. .
The average rainfall at Madras is 50
in., nearly half of which falls in
November. November, December, and
January are comparatively cool, but
there is no cold weatlier in Madras.
Occasional heavy showers fall from
July till October. The rise of tide
does not exceed 3 to 4 ft., even at equi-
noctial springs. A current, averaging
two knots, runs from S. by W. to N. by
E. parallel to the shore during the S.W.
monsoon, and in the contrary direction
during the N.E. monsoon. It will be
seen from what has been said that no
place of such importance as Madras
is so much in want of a harbour, and
nowhere would it be more difficult to
make one. However, on the occasion
of H.R.H. the Prince of Wales' visit, .
a memorial stone was laid, December
15th, 1875, commemorating that visit,
and the commencement of the harbour
works, which were designed by Mr. W.
Parkes, M.I.C.E. The estimate was
£565,000, but up to the end of July,
1878, only Rs. 2,089,548 had been ex-
pended, and the works had been at
that date advanced to 889 ft. of block
work in the N. pier, and 499J ft. in
the S. pier. These works consist of
two breakwaters to the N. and S. of
the Custom House, and each in round
numbers will extend 2,000 ft. beyond
the pier, which runs out from the
Custom House, and which will not be
removed. The principal houses of
business extend along the shore
facing the harbour ; there is to the
farthest south the house of Messrs.
Parry & Co., then the Church of Scot-
land Indian Mission, and in regular
succession to the north, the Govern-
ment Granary, the Stamp Office, the
office of Messrs. Shand & Co., the
Oriental Bank, the offices of Messrs.
Bainbridge & Co. and Messrs. Arbuth-
not & Co., the High Court, the Master
Attendant's Office, the Custom House,
the Messagenfes lJL«!c\\AX£ie& wvd the
P. & 0. Company's offiica. N^ .cii\>ftRSfc\%\N.
thickly \Txha\)\t^ c53L«dQ?c ^iX^xv^vcv^^^

Sect. II.

Tlie Pier — The LightltouBe.

Popham's Broadway, a long thorough-
fare, and bordered on the extreme
nortli by the railway terminns and
railway. The breakwaters are to ex-
tend from the shore seaward, 3,500 ft.,
and are to terminate in branches,
which will approach one another, so
as to leave in the centre an entrance
160 yds. wide. Thus, when finished,
they will enclose a rectangular space a
little more than 1,000 yds. long from
W, to E., and somewhat less wide
from N. to S., the area being 170 acres,
with a depth at low water of 3 to 7
fathoms, available for vessels of all
sizes, and a further space of a quarter
of that area with less than 3 fathoms
of water, available for boats, lighters,
and native craft. The breakwaters are
formed of blocks of concrete 12 ft.
long, 10 ft. broad, and 8 ft. thick on a
foundation of rubble, and 3 such blocks
are dropped daily. The S. breakwater,
it will be seen, has not advanced as
far as the N., but it has been carried
into the sea some hundred yai'ds ; and
as it advanced, a bank of sand followed
it on the S. side, which caused the
engineers much anxiety, lest it should
render the entrance too shallow for
large vessels. It is thought, however,
that the silting up has stopped. Of
course until the E. branches are finished
there will be a considerable wash at
the steps of the N. breakwater, but
when they are completed it will be
easy to land or embark there. It is
calculated that there is room for about
13 large vessels.

Ttve Pier. — The iron pier in the
centre of the harbour was built by
Frederick Johnson, C.E., under a con-
tract dated 9th of November, 1858.
The length from high water-mark is
1,000 ft., and with the cross-piece
1,040, the cross-piece being 160 ft.
long from N. to S., and 40 ft. broad
from E. to W. The pier itself is 40 ft.
broad. It is made of Mitchell's patent
screw piles of solid wrought iron, 6 in.
and 8 in. in diameter, in rows 4 abreast,
with 10 ft. between the centre of each
row. The first 25 rows are sunk 11 ft.
deep in the sand, the second 25 rows,
13 ft., the rest 15 ft. Four lines of
railwajrare laid along the floonng of

the pier, and bring goods into the
Custom House. There are 6 cranes,
lifting from 3 to 10 tons each, and 8
movable cranes. The cost was £103,616,
and £4,332 more for extending the
rails to the Custom House. In 1868,
during a storm, a French vessel drove
through the pier from the 8., about
200 ^. from the sea end, and in May,
1872, two vessels drove through from
the N. A joining, which was made
by an addition to the S. side, though
no longer used and not now planked
over, is left in case of any similar acci-
dent. Passengers pay 2 dnas if they
embark from the pier, nothing if they
simply walk on it ; but there is very
little room to pass on account of the
goods trafiic. Boats pay 2^ to 3^ rs.
The pier-master has an oflice on the
S. side, at the shore end.

The Lightlioutc. — The lighthouse
stands on the esplanade, close to the
N. face of the Fort, and the light is
128 ft. above the level of the sea ; but
the height of the building, to the
feather at the top, is 142 ft. Its light,
one of the most brilliant in the world,
is a flashing one ; the duration of the
flash being to that of the dark inter-
val, as 2 to 3, and it was first shown
on the Ist of January, 1841. It is ex-
hibited from the top of a Doric column
of granite, standing on a cubic pedestal
21 ft. high, also of granite, with massive
steps, the shjrft being 111 ft. high. The
lantern consists of a 12-8ided polygon
framed in gun-metal, with 9 glass and
3 blank faces. The interior diameter
of the lantern is 9 ft ; and its height
4^ ft. The entrance is on the W. side.
On the pedestal is incribed 1838 — 44,
There are 210 steps to the light, in-
cluding 3 on a short wooden ladder.
There are 15 burners and 6 light-
keepers. The superintendent gets 100
rs. a month, and 28 rs. for house-rent,
and visits the building twice a day
and 3 or 4 times a night. The deputy
gets 26 rs. a month. There is a fine
view over Madras city from the top of
this building.

The Club. — Visitors who caxv ^VA»ss!l
admissioti to >ih^ "^w^iwek CN»^ ^a^
honoTary mcmb^i^ V'^ ^a.^ 'Odrssi-
selves tar moi^ ^soxoiQiiX.viWV^ ^^Bsa^. '^ca.

142

Madras City.

Sect. 11.

hotels, particularly if they are so for-
tunate as to secure a bedroom on the
premises. The subscription for hono-
rary members is only 6 rs. a month,
and a room costs 1 r. a day, so that
one may live in the greatest comfort
at from 7 to 10 rs. a day =12*. to 18«.
At a ball given to the Prince of Wales
in December, 1875, the rooms held 600
persons. The Club is centrally situated,
being distant from the Fort 2 miles, in
a south-westerly direction. Leaving
the Fort for the Club cross over the
small bridge, which joins it to the
island, and going close by Munro's
statue, cross a second small bridge,
called Government Bridge, into Mount
Koad, which is the principal artery of
communication from the Fort to St.
Thomas' Mount, a distance of over 5
miles. On reaching Neill's statue,
which is nearly 2 miles from the Fort,
turn to the left, and go a fifth of a mile
to the Club, if that is to be made the
traveller's head-quarters.

Hotels, — The hotels in Madras are
very nimierous. Immediately on land-
ing, the traveller will see Lippert's
Hotel close to the High Court, Pier,
and Custom House in the First Line
Beach, which is a good hotel, entirely
under European management. The
landlady is Swiss, and is active and
attentive. There is almost always a
sea breeze here. The charge is 6 rs. a
day, exclusive of drinkables. At a
distance of 4 miles due S. from Lip-
pert's Hotel, close to the sea, and not
qaite half a mile S. of the Ice House,
is Capper House Hotel, which can be
strongly recommended. Close to the
Club is the Imperial Hotel, and along
the Mount Road are several hotels, the
Victoria, the Branch Elphinstone, and
others. The charges are the same at all
the principal hotels, i.c., about 6 rs. for
board and lodging, exclusive of wines.
There is also the Madras Cosmopoli-
tan Club, which was founded by Mr.
Cunningham, now Judge of the High
Court at Calcutta, and is situated about
-^/ miles almost due W. of the Fort
near the College Hall. This is a mixed
cJab of European and Indian gentle-
■foezz The honorary secretary is (1878)
-^^eut- Colonel F. H. Tyrrell, who is

the political officer with the Niiwab
of the Kamdtik.

Conveyances, — It will be absolutely
necessary for travellers who wish to
see the sights of Madras in a short
time to engage a cai*riage. Even
should they be living with friends, and
have the occasional use of their car-
riages, they will require to supplement
this with a hired vehicle. The best
place to hire a carriage is at Taylor &:
Co.'s, in the Mount Koad, not far from
Neill's statue ; a shigram (called from
a Tamil word which signifies quick)
with one horse can be hired for 4 rs.
a day, and with two horses for 6 rs.
A small trifle of a quarter of a rupee a
day is given to the coachmai). Palan-
quins are scarcely at all used now.

Tlw Fort. — The first day may be
spent in visiting the Fort, where ai'e
the Government Offices, and the Arse-
nal, and St. Mary's Church. The Fort
was designed by a Mr. Robins, who
was mathematical professor at Wool-
wich, and was made commander-in-
chief at Madras. He died in India,
and is thought to have been buried at
Sadras. The eastern face of the Foit
is close to the sea, with only the broad
road between it, which forms the
public promenade. The E. face is
straight, but the western face land-
wai*d is in the form of a crescent, well
protected by cross-fire from different
bastions, and surrounded by a deep
fosse, in which is water several feet
deep crossed by a draw-bridge. The
road into the Fort is so narrow, and
turns at such sharp angles, that the
footmen must run on a considerable
distance in front of the carriage to see
that no vehicle is coming out, as it is
impossible to pass except at one or
two places. The fortifications on the
land side consist of 3 full and 2 demi-
bastions, which latter rest on the line
wall, which nms en creniaillere along
the beach. The curtains are covered
by cavaliers and lunettes. The curtain
and ravelin of the N. face are connected
by a strong cajtonnierey and the curtain
is covered by a tenaille. The counter-
scarp is iaced mth a revetment, and
defended \>y a. ^«\\s«j^fi,^ ^a^^\V ^'aly

Sect. II.

Tlie Fort

143

the Fort, at the N. by W. extremity, is
a terraced two-storied barrack running
N. and S., which holds a battalion of
infantry and two companies of artillery.
The Fort also contains the Chief- Secre-
tary to Government's Office, the offices
of the adjutant-general and the quar-
termaster-general, the comptroller's
office facing St. Mary's Church, in
Charles and James Street, and the ac-
countant-general's office. The Fort is
not without its historic recollections.
Here on the lOth of September, 1746,
M. De la Bourdonnais received in the
name of the French king the surren-
dered keys, which were restored to the
English by the treaty of Aix-la-
Chapelle. Here on the 14th of De-
cember, 1758, the French arrived under
the command of M. LaUy, but retreated
on the 16th of February, 1759, leaving
behind them 52 cannons and many of
their wounded. The French made
their approach on the N. side, and
their principal battery, called Lally's,
must have been near where the house
of Parry & Co. now stands, as it was
close to the beach and about 580 yds.
N. of the Fort. Another battery was
at the native cemetery in Black Town,
and a third about 400 yds. to the S.W.
In April, 1769, while the English forces
were far away, Gaidar 'All made his
appearance with his cavalry, and dic-
tated to the Governor the terms on
which he would spare the defenceless
territory. Again, on the 10th of
August, 1780, and once more in Jan-
uary, 1792, the garrison were alaimed
by the appearance of the Maisiir
cavalry. Here in Writer's Buildings,
Bob Clive, an idle and discontented
clerk, twice snapped a pistol at his
own head. From this Fort he marched
to his first victories, and from it went
the army which on the 4th of May,
1799, killed Tlpii and captured Seriii-
g^atam. The accountant-general's
office in the Fort was formerly the
Government House. It stands close
to St. Mary's Church, with one row of
houses between it and the sea. On the
ground-floor is a veiy curious machine
for weighin^r rupees, which, if they do
not pass below a certain line are re-
jected into a locker and put aside as

light coin. If they descend below the
mark they are proved to be good coin,
and dropped into another receptacle.
This machine weighs 20,000 rs. a day.
It was invented by Major Smith, for-
merly Superintendent of the Mint, and
it gained one of the great prizes, at
the Exhibition of 1851. On the same
floor are the records, which are im-
mensely voluminous, and are arranged
according to coUectorates. The largest
room is called the General Hall, and
was probably the reception-room of
the governor. It is 60 ft. long, 24 ft.
broiS, and ^ ft. high. The account-
ant-general's office is at the top storey.
Opposite to this office is that of the
comptroller of military accounts, so
that all the account department is
close together, and more conveniently
located than in Bombay and Calcutta.
In the comptroller's office is a door
which opens into the Grand Arsenal.
This forms a long parallelogram on
the first floor. The galleries, which
form the two longer sides, measure
337 ft. each. That part which con-
tains the museum is the most interest-
ing to visitors. Remark first 4 comets, //
or flags, belonging to the 1st and 2ud
Regiments of Madras Cavalry. The
oldest flags taken &om the Dutch and
French are sewn up in red covers, to
protect them from the crows and squir-
rels, which have destroyed many, using
them to make their nests ^ith. The
flags thus sewn up look like sand-bags
to keep off draughts at doors, only that
they are so much longer, measuring
about 15 ft., and are festooned on the
walls. Remark next a model of the
Fort, and two iron helmets taken at
Manilha {sic) in 1762, one weighing 10
lbs., the other 1 4. The Prince of Wales
tried these on. A number of trophies
are ranged in a semicircle with this
inscription :

" Britannia victrix
The emperial (sic) Trophies of the
Success of the British arms at
Manilha are erected by an Order
Of Council in Honour of the Bravery
Of the Land and Sea Forces on that
Expedition under the cQtnm«xvlQt
Brigr.-GeuciaXIDta^x «Q!\^>»x I^^^ssNsaS.
Coniish.

Man\\Y\atakcu.\irj «.\oTva, O^Woct ^\.%

Madras City,

Sect. 11.

There is also a very curious brass
mortar from Kamiil. It is shaped like
a tiger sitting with legs planted almost
straight out. In the fight where this
trophy was taken, a Madras civilian
named Wilson, ordered a troop of H.A.
to . blow open the gate. Thackeray,
uncle of the novelist, who commanded,
was killed, as were others. Wilson,
then, himself gallantly led the attack,
and was likewise killed, and the attack
was repulsed. Observe also a hand-
some gun taken from Jeswant RAo
Holkar, with his name and the date,
A.H. 1218 = 1803 A.D. Observe too,
the cage in which Captain P. Anstru-
ther, RA., was kept prisoner in China
for seven months. This officer dreamt
the night before he was captured, that
he had been taken, and raised such an
outcry in his sleep, that the sentinels
rushed in to see what was the matter.
This cage seems hardly big enough for
a turkey, and Anstruther was over 6
ft. high. He used to chalk up on the
bars the number of bottles of beer his
comrades sent him. Mrs. Noble was
kept in a similar cage. There is also
a very fine bronze bell taken by Major
Mclntyre at Ching Kang Foo. There
arc also the colours taken at the cap-
ture of Sadras in 1780, and those taken
from the French at Pulikat in 1781,
and the Dutch colours taken at Am-
jboyna in 1810; and, also, tiger-headed
jguns taken at Seringapatam in 1792,
' and a wall-piece, which belonged to
the NiiwAb of the Eamdtik, the barrel
of which is 12 ft. long, and only 3 in.
round. Also observe the 6 keys of
Pondicherry, taken in 1778 ; also a
bifurcate projectile, which, after issu-
ing from the cannon, opens out like a
double-bladed sword to the length of
5 ft.. 10 in. ; also another wall-piece
brought from Balldri, the barrel of
which is 15 ft. long, though the bore
is only 1^ in. ; also an anemograph,
also leather petards with straps to
fasten them to a gate. The duty of
keeping clean the arms in the Grand
Arsenal is a heavy one, although they
Are cleaned only once in 4 months.
Haugoon oil is used for cleaning the
^f^ff aflc? formerly it had to be sent
-^n^land to undergo a cleansing

process ; but it is now so well made in
India, that further cleansing is not
required.

St, Mary's Civurch. — A peculiarity
of this church is, that it stands N. and
S., with the communion table to the
N. There are two side entrances to
the E. and W. Many distinguished
persons are buried here, and among
them. Sir John Burgoyne, Bt., Col. of
H. M.'s 23rd Regiment of Light Dra-
goons, who died ^ptember 23rd, 1785 ;
also Major-General Sir Barry Close,
Bt., who died April 18th, 1813 ; also
Lieut.-General Sir F. W. Whitting-
ham, K.C.B., K.C.H., Col. of H.M.'s
71st Light Infantiy, Commander-in-
Chief of the Madras army, who died
19th January, 1841 ; also Vice-Admiral
Sir Samuel Hood, K.C.B., Commander-
in-Chief of H.M.'s Naval forces in the
East Indies ; also Sir Alexander Camp-
bell, Bt., K.C.B., Commander-in-Chief
of the Madras army, and Olympia his
wife, who died on the 24th December,
1794. Under the arch at the W. end
of the church is inscribed, " M.S. Fran.
Hastings." At the comer of the wall
N. of this, is the epitaph in Latin of
Hemy Greenhill ; who appears to have
been at the head of the Civil Service,
and who died, 5th of August, 1662.
In this direction are several other
tombs from 150 to 200 years old.
Within the church, on the left side,
looking towards the communion table,
is a tablet to Margaretta^ Baroness
Hobart, and her infant son, John
Hobart. She died 7th of August,
1796. But the most remarkable tomb
of all, is the white marble one of the
famous missionary Schwartz, a name
which is here spelt Swartz. He is
represented dymg on his bed sur-
rounded by a group of friends, ^ith
an angel appearing in the clouds, and
holding up a cross to his view. On
the northern side of the square in the
Fort, is the statue of Lord Comwallis
under a stone canopy. It stands on a
circular pedestal, on which is sculp-
tured in alto-relievo the surrender of
Tipii's children. This statue is by
Chantrey, «D.d"s^a& Elected at the joint
expense oi \\ve '^xmcv^^l *\\^«\i\\»»J«i

Sect. IL

Tlie Jail — Tlu Hospital.

145

Irandied yards to the W., is an old
tomb of stone with a square base and
a pyramidal tower above it. It con-
[ tains two inscriptions, one to the son
of Eliha Yale, a president or governor,
dated the 28th January, 1682. The
other inscription is to Joseph Hyn-
mers, who was second in council in
Fort St George, and died the 28th
May, 1680. Both these names are
mentioned in the register of St. Mary's
Church, the first entry in which is
<' Consecration of St. Mary's Church,
being upon St. Simon and St. Jude's
day, the 28th of October, A.D. 1680,
the Bt. Worshipful Streinsham Master,
Esqre., Agent and Governor of Fort
St. Gteorge." From this dat« begin
the marriages, baptisms, deaths, and
burials, and the first of the marriages
is : " Elihu Yale and Catherine Hin-
mers (He)^ relict of Joseph Hinmers,
were married by the Rev. Kichard Port-
man, given in marriage by the Rt. Wor-
shipful Streinsham Master, Esqre.,
Governor, Henry Oxe"den («mj), and
John Willcox, bridemen ; Catherine
Barker and Tryphena Ord, bridemaids,
November 4th, 1680 ; " so that Mrs.
Hinmers, the Member of Council's
wife, was married a second time, 5
months after her husband's death, to
Ghovemor Yale. There is an old silver
cup for mixing the sacramental vdne,
inscribed, " Ex dono Honoratiss" Do-
minse Dom. Mariae Goldsborough quae
excessit ex hac vita 30 die Novembris,
1698." There are two silver basins
for alms : the smaller cup was given
by Elihu Yale in 1687, when he was
governor ; the larger basin is inscribed,
" Ex dono Marise Goldsborough," with
the date of her death, 1698. Across
the esplanade W. of the Fort, is Pache-
appaVi School for girls, which con-
tains a great number of pupils, and
has been mainly supported by the
B4j4 of Yijayanagaram. It is worth a
visit to those who take an interest in
the education of Indian females.

The Jail. — The Jail or Penitentiary
is three-fifths of a mile W. of the Fort,
and 200 yds. S. and by W. of the
General IRospital. Although situated
so low it is remarkably healthy , and
/ram 1868 to 1875 there was not a

single case of cholera in it. There are
between 400 and 500 prisoners, and
each wears a ticket with his number
and date of committal, and the date
on which he will be released on the
obverse, and the number of previous
convictions on the reverse. Work lasts
74 hours a day. The treadmill works
circular saws and the printing presses.
The men are 10 minutes on the wheel
and 10 minutes off. In 1872, one
third of the prisoners had dengue
fever. The focd is principally bread,
made of r&gi (Eleusine coracana).
Instead of this, one day in the week
the men have rice. The supreme
government does not allow caste to
be ignored. Burmese criminals sen-
tenced to long imprisonment are sent
here, so that Madras has to pay for
the crime of a distant province. There
is now in the prison a boy who was
sent here for life, when he was only
about 9 or 10 years of age, for being
concerned in a murder, for which 7
men were hanged. Europeans are in
a separate block. They and the
Eurasians are employed in breaking
cocoa-nut husk for fibre. The average
number of women is only 30 to 400
men.

The Hospital, — The European Gene-
ral Hospital is not far from the jail,
and between it and the Fort, on the
western skirt of Black Town. The
records go back to 1829. Dr. Mortimer
published an account of it in 1838,
and says, ^' it is situated on the side
of the esplanade, 1600 ft. from the
nearest angle of Fort St. Gteorge, from
which it bears nearly W. The Medical
College intervenes between it and the
Fort. It has 2 wings with 4 wards
each, and a centre piece also with 4
wards. The wards on the ground floor
are 15 ft. 7 in. high. Half the building
is for European soldiers, and the other
half is a general hospitaL" In 1860
an upper storey was added, and the
building so completed faces nearly N.
and S., and consists of one long range
of double wards, running E. and W.,
with 3 double Yim^ ^, ^sA %, ^iic
the N. Side xvmA ^ijS^ tmmdl ^soaft*. ^am^
Punamali to t\ift Yot\., «sA ^».\ftje«^
road the Uosi^ital^a.V.^^Qf^'^. ^^tv^xxv^

146

Madras City.

Sect. II.

W. and S. run the canal and its con-
tinuation — ^the river Kuam. On the
E. side is the military part of the
hospital. To the S. and W. of the
main building of the General Hospital
are the officers' quarters. There are
280 beds equally divided between
Europeans and Natives, the former
being on the upper floor, the Indians
on the lower. This hospital is for
men, that for women and children is
at Vepery. On the 8th of September,
1874, two lady-superintendents, Miss
Catherine Martyr and Miss S. A. C.
Pierrepont, came out to the hospital
under a contract to remain for 5 years.
The nurses have been trained under
these ladies, and those who are inte-
rested in such establishments will be
gratified by a visit to this hospital.

The Government Hbtue, — To the S.
and by W. of the Fort, and close to it,
is what is called the Island, surrounded
by the canal and the Kuam river.
The latter runs to the S. and W. of the
Island, and is crossed by what is called
Government Bridge, which passes di-
rectly into the Mount road, and on
the left as you go from the Fort south-
ward is the Government House with a
banqueting hall detached, and a few
y^Birds to the N. of the main building.
The reception-rooms in Government
House are good, but the sleeping ac-
commodation is very scanty, and is
often supplemented by tents pitched
in the grounds, which are intolerably
hot. The entrance hall is spacious and
contains a full-length picture of 'A'j^im
J4h, the NtiwAb of ArkAt (Arcot), and
opposite to it one of his son N. ' A's;imu*d
daulaib. and his eldest son *As;im J&h.
To Tt. and 1. are rooms occupied by
officers on the Governor's staff. A
broad and handsome staircase leads
to the reception-rooms, which are on
the first floor. There is first a draw-
ing-room, about 38 ft. square and very
lofty, over the entrance hall, and then
the dining-room, the same breadth as
the drawing-room, but 50 ft. long. To
rt. and. \. of the drawing-rooms are
smaller mtting-roomB, that on the 1.
being' generally used as a breakf ast-
Toom, with, to the 1. of it, a very small
sittinff-Toom and bed-room, which are

the only rooms the Governor can offer
to a guest. On the second storey are
the l^d-rooms for the ladies of the
Governor's family. In the breakfast-
room is a picture of the installation of
NiiwAb Ghulam Muhammad Ghaus
KhAn under the governorship of Lord
Elphinstone, with the date 1842. In
the dining-room is a picture of Clive,
and one of Niiwab Shuj'au'd daulah
of Oudh, and also one of the NiiwAb
'Umdatu '1 UmarA. In the drawing-
room is a full-length portrait of Lady
Munro standing, by Sir Thomas Law-
rence, and one of his finest pictures.
There is also a portrait of the Mar-
chioness of Tweeddale in a sitting
posture. The banqueting hall is a
noble room 80 ft. long and 60 ft.
broad. There is a recess 20 ft. deep.
The room is about 30 ft. high. Over
the entrance door is a large picture
of Queen Victoria seated. On her 1.
looking down the hall is a portrait of
George III. standing, taken at the
beginning of his reign. It is perhaps
the most pleasing picture of him that
exists. On Queen Victoria's rt. are the
following pictures : 1st. Queen Char-
lotte ; 2nd. A full-length of Sir Thomas
Munro, standing at a table in a gene-
ral's uniform, probably by Sir T. Law-
rence. Sir Thomas wears the old-
fashioned single epaulet. 3rd. A
three-quarter-length of Robert, Lord
Hobart, 1790 to 1798, who wears a
black coat and white neck-cloth ; 4th.
Lord Harris in a blue uniform with
silver epaulets, seated; 5th. General
Meadows in imiform, with white trou-
sers ; 6th. Lord Momington, after-
wards Marquis Wellesley, seated on
the terrace of the old Government
House in the Fort, with 2 fiags on his
left, the British surmounting that of
Tlpii, which bore a sun shining in its
strength. The steeple of old St. Mary's
Church is also shown. 7th. General
Wellesley (Duke of Wellington) in a
scarlet uniform with a star, standing.
An Indian in white holds the General's
charger, a roan in a prancing attitude.
At the bottom of the room on the rt.,
facing t\ie dcAft, \a %, tVift Hon. W. A.

Conncil, dteeafed m>B\MiV,^>iXi ^ ^^

Sect II.

Guindy,

147

in his hand firmly planted. Next
comes the recess, and the first picture
on the rt. is 9, Niiwdb Mul^ammad
'AU WdUj^. 10. In the centre is the
same Ntiw^b taking a walk with Major
Itawrence, who is bai-e-headed, so that
the time must have been very early in
the morning or at sunset ; 11. On the
}eft is Amiru '1 Umar^, second son of
Niliw&b Muhammad 'All Wdl^j^ ; 12.
Facing the dais on the left of the
recess is Sir C. Trevelyan in an orato-
rical attitude, with a very large volume
on tof Madras, who died on the
5th of March, 1861, and on the N.
wall of the N. aisle is that of William
Griffiths, F.L.S., a most distinguished
botanist, who died 9th of February,
1845.

The general hour for church service
is 11 A.M. and 6.30 P.M. on Sunday,
and the Communion is celebrated in
the hot weather at 7 A.M.

Other Chnrches, — St. Andrew's, the
Scotch Church, is nearly IJ m. due
W. of the fort, a little to the S. of
Punamali Road, betwesn Vepery and
Chintddripet, near the Kuam river.
The first stone of this fine church was
laid on the 6th of April, 1818. The
edifice was completed in about two
years, and cost £20,000, the architect
being Major Fiott de Havilland. The
Madras stucco, or chunam, in the in-
terior gives to the pillars all the white-
ness and polish of the finest Parian
marble. The steeple rises to the height
of 166 J ft., and the building is remark-
able for the complete substitution of
masoniy for timber, which would be
destroyed by white ants. Bishop Heber
complains tiiat the form of the church
is singular, and ill-adapted for hearing,
but he praises the stateliness of the
structure. The foundations are raised
on wells of masonry, which are sunk
9 ft. deep, and the basement of the
foundation measures 4 ft., the founda-
tions themselves 13^ ft., making the
whole depth below the pavement 26^ ft.
In spite of the nature of the soil, which
is first vegetable mould for 10 in., then
a foot or two of alluvial earth, then 8
or 10 ft. of black soapy salt mud, then
sand, which after a few feet becomes
a quicksand, — these brick wells filled
with rubble form a solid support to the
vast superincumbent weight. These
wells, like all others in the country, are
biu7t up to a convenient height above
S^ound and then made to subside by
scooping out the earth from under the
Joasourjr, As the water rushes in the

men are obliged to work with their
bodies completely immersed. This
labour, however, is so exhausting that
they are obliged to relieve one another
unceasingly. The well -diggers are a
distinct caste, and will not intermarry
even with the tank-diggers. The bridge
over the Kuam river near the church
is called St. Andrew's after the church,
and was erected by the same architect
in 1817, at a cost of £8,000.

St. Thome, — In the quarter called
St. Thom6, rather more than 2 m. due
S. of the Fort, there is a small but
pretty church where service is fre-
quently attended by the Governor and
the elite of Madras. There are only
two tablets, both to officers who were
drowned at sea. Here is an old Iloman
Catholic church. The other churches
at Madras have nothing remarkable,
except those at the Little and Great
Mount, which will now be described.

The Little Mount. — This curious spot
is about 5 m. S. and by W. of the Fort.
It is a little to the 1. after crossing
Marmalong Bridge (said to be Mdmill-
amma. Our Lady of the Mangoes)
which spans the Adydr river and is
410 yds. long .but very narrow. It has
29 arches. On the hither side is a
square building 14 ft. high, with pillars
at each comer and an inscription in
English, Latin, and Persian, which says
that the expenses of the bridge were
defrayed from a legacy left for the
purpose by Adrian Fourbeck, a mer-
chant of Madras, from the plan and
under the direction of Lieut.-CoI.
Patrick Ross, chief engineer, in 178G.
On reaching the Little Mount you
ascend 37 steps and enter the church.
On the 1. is a litter in which they
carry the effigy of the Virgin. In front
are several epitaphs. One is that of
Samuel Admand, a native of London,
who died July 2, 1765, and-^e other
two have the dates 1807,"^ 1809. On
the 1. of the entrance is a portrait of
St. Thomas, with an old Portuguese
inscription. You now descend 3 stei)s
on the 1., and go down a slope leading
to a cavern hewn out of the solid rock.
It is necessaxy to ^\.oo^ -^rery low to
enter t\ie cave, acv^ ^i^i'etfe \s ivc?Oti\i\^\.Q
see "but a nasiQW a^Tt\)ie ^\iiOsi \^\&

Sect. II.

Model Fann — jRace^Course.

151

in the daylight, and through this fissure
they tell you St. Thomas escaped the
IiK^ans, who wished to slay him. You
now leave the church and ascend 11
steps to the vestry-room, in which is
a Missal with the date 1793. Next
ascend 28 steps outside the building to
the terraced roof, whence there is a
good view of the surrounding flat
country, Guindy is seen to the E.,
and the Model Farm about i m. to the
N.B. of it. The Greater Mount is dis-
tinctly seen about 3 m. to the S.W.
Close by to the W. are seen Marmaloug
Bridge and the AdyAr with hundreds
of washermen plying their vocation.
Ascend 11 more steps to the priest's
room, which is the highest point,
whence appear 260 yds. to the E. the
white walls of the Penitentiary, at 2 J
m. to the S. the race-course, and 3 m.
to the N. the Boman Catholic Cathedral.
Descend again, and see a dark cell fuU
of bats, which is said to be the oldest
part of the church, and where St.
Thomas himself worshipped. To the
W. is a hole in the rock in which is a
little water said to have been miracu-
lously produced by the Saint. This is
called the Fountain I Outside are some
rocks, two of which are cased with
thick masonry, marked with the feet,
knee, and hands of St. Thomas, as it
is said, but strong faith is required to
see anything in the impressions but
ordinary scratches.

The Mod-el Farm may next be visited.
The superintendent's house is on the
far side of Marmalong Bridge, and to
the rt., but to reach the farm you go
to the 1. The sheep are poor scraggy
things, the wethers weighing only 35
lbs. There are about 300 of them, and
30 cattle. The farm is 300 acres in
extent. Poultry can hardly be kept
owing to the havoc made by rats,
bandycoots, and mungooses. There
are 60 students, of whom 20 are normal.
The New Orleans cotton grows well.
There is a water-lift where a single
bullock draws up 23,000 gallons a day.
The cost is 9 4nds a day, 6 for the bul-
lock and 3 foi* the driver. The soil
here is not good, and has only J per
cent of limef whereas good soil has 5
per cent For dry crops they have to

put on lime and bum kankar to get
it, and this is expensive. The wood
of the casuarina is used to bum the
kankar, and 4 loads of this wood are
equal to 1 load of coaL Indigo is cut
in February, and brings 30 rs. an acre.
Tobacco also is grown.

The Bace- Vonrse is beyond Marma-
long Bridge to the rt. going from
Mount Boad. The Course is 14 m.
long. To the N. you see the Great
Mount and Palaveram, a double hill
about 600 ft. high, with a long, low
range extending from it. The races
take place, of course, in the cold
weather ; and here, on the 16th of
December, 1876, the Prince of Wales
was present, and H.B.H. also hunted
twice in the vicinity with the fox-
hounds, of which Mr. Lodwick, C.S.,
was Master ; once on the 18th of De-
cember, four days after the races, when
the jackal, which is here hunted instead
of a fox, ran 10 m., and several horses
were killed or injured. In the Course
is an obelisk to Major Donald Mackey,
who died Sept. 27, 1783. The Great
Mount is quite 7 m. from the Fort, and
about 3 m. from Marmalong Bridge to
the S.W. The head-quarters of the
Madras Artillery used to be here, and
the Mess Boom is still a considerable
building, the dining-room being 80 ft.
long, and the ball-room of the same
length. There are also good read-
ing-rooms and a valuable library.
In the dining-room are portraits of
Colonel Noble and General Mont-
gomery. The former is a J length,
representing Colonel Noble in the
uniform of the Madras H. A., which
corps he formed and commanded. The
latter wears the uniform of the Foot
Artillery. The church (St. Thomas's)
is a few hundred yards from the Mess
House. It is a handsome building,
with a well-proportioned steeple. The
register of the church goes back to
Dec. 22nd, 1804. There are monuments
here to several distinguished officers,
and among them to Colonel Noble, who
died 16th July, 1827 ; Major Augustus
Fred. Oakes, who was killed b^ cou'^j
de soleiL in Wi^ ».\X»«^ ^^ ^Skas^^assa.^
April l*i,\%5'Z\ Mi^L Q^T^ax^^"^^«sfi.^

152

Madras City.

Sect. II.

at the court of Travankor, and died
Ist October, 1862, aged 77.

From the church to the Mount is f
of a m. in a N.W. direction. You
ascend 9 steps to enter the archway,
which stands at the foot of a succession
of terraces and steps leading up to a
church at the top of the Mount. Over
this archway is the date, 1726, and
within are several slabs with epitaphs.
One is inscribed Adeodata, wife of
Major Koach, died 26th July, 1719.
After ascending the 121 steps which
lead to the church, you observe the
remains of a fortification, with embra-
sures for guns and 3 cannon used for
signals. The Mount is an isolated cliff
of greenstone and syenite, about 300 ft.
high. The church is called "the
Expectation of the Blessed Virgin."
It is 109 ft. by 78 ft., and was built by
the Portuguese in 1647, and is the pro-
perty of the K. C. Armenians. The
view from the top is a fine one. To
the N.W. are the Hills of Palaveram,
and between them and the Mount are
the New Barracks, with a fine parade
ground. To the E. are seen the Yali-
chari and Namgambikam tanks.

At this church, behind the altar and
above it, is a remarkable cross with a
Nestorian inscription in Sassanian
Pahlavi of about 800 A.D. As you look
at the inscription, begin to read a little
to your rt. of the centre, that is, to your
rt. of the top of the arch. Dr. Bumell
has read the inscription, and translates
it, " Ever pure * * is in favour with
Him who bore the cross." The general
belief is that St. Thomas was martyred
at Mailapiir, which H. H.Wilson (Trans-
actions of Roy. As. Soc., vol. i., p. 161)
identifies with MihilAropye or Mihila-
piir, now St. Thom6. The Rev. C.
Egbert Kennet, of Bishop's Coll., Cal-
cutta, has brought together the notices
of St. Thomas's visit to India in a
valuable little pamphlet, printed at the
Christian Knowledge Society's Press,
18, Church Road, Vepery. The mar-
tyrdom of St. Thomas is said to have
taken place at Maildpi!ir on the 21st
of IfeCf 68 A.D, ; and Heber says
(Journal, vol, iu\, p. 212, 4th Ed.), " I
aee no good reason for doubting that it
^ ^^y the place.'' In the Anglo-

Saxon Chron. (p. 357, Bohn's Ed.) it
is said, " This year (883), Sighelm and
Athelstan carried to Rome the alms
which Alfred had vowed to send
thither, and also to India to St. Thomas
and to St. Bartholomew." Gibbon
refers to it, c. 48. Bishop Dorotheus,
bom A.D. 254, in a fragment in the
Paschal Chron. says that the Apostle
Thomas suffered martyrdom at Cala-
mina, a town of India (see Cave's
" Historia Literaria," p. 107). At the
Council of Nice, A.D. 325, John, Bishop
of India, was present. St. Jerome,
A.D. 390, mentions Calamina as the
town in India where St. Thomas died.
In Col. Yule's « Marco Polo," vol. ii.,
pp. 290, 293, 294, will be found refer-
ences to other ancient notices of St.
Thomas's visit to India. Abdias, who
lived at the end of the 1st century,
and whose work was published by
Lazius at Basle in 1552, says he re-
membered a book in which the voyage
of St. Thomas to India was describ^.

The Central Mmeiim is situated about
2 m. to the W. by S.of the Fort, in the
quarter called Egmore, between Hall's-
road and the Pantheon-road. There is
here a skeleton of a whale 50 ft. long ;
also a very fine tiger killed near Tiru-
pati, and a good collection of stuffed
animals.

TJie Public Gardens or People's Park
is due N. of the Jail, and W. of the
Central Rly. Stat. There is a fine col-
lection of animals here. Among them
is a large rhinoceros, which got loose
some years ago and caused great terror
and confusion. It charged a wall with
such force that it broke off its horn
quite short, and was then captured.
There is also a lion whose tail was
bitten off by the tiger, a very large
one, that is kept in the next cage. It
is well not to approach this lion within
10 yards.

The Principal Shops. — The shops of
Madras are pre-eminently good. That
of Mr. Orr, not far from Neill's statue,
and between it and Government House,
will supply all that can be desired in
the way of jewellery • and gold and
silver omameofcB. H^re Trichinapalli
chains can \)e got m '^erle.o.Xitfsti. ^Vi^a
by is th.e tuimtvxt^ ^o^ ^"^ ^« ^^^-

Sect. IL JRotUe 1. — Madras to tite Seven Pagodas,

153

champs, who is an artist eqnal to an j
that can be found in Europe, and who
has sent many beautiful articles to the
European exhibitions. Here also are
excellent booksellers, Higginbotham k,
Co., and seyeral photographic studios
well deserving to be visited. In Black
Town the shop of Oakes & Co. is un-
riralled as a general store. A good
hairdresser and perfumer's shop is,
however, much wanted, and one must
depend on itinerant barbers for the
luxmy of being shaved and shampooed.

The Observatory is about 1 m. W. of
the Central Museum, and has been in
charge of very eminent men. It is
worth a visit. It was erected in 1793
by Michael Tapping, under orders from
the directors of the E. L C.

The Charities of Madras, — The
recent dreadful famine has given rise
to several important charities in Madras.
Hundreds of orphan children have been
left to the care of charitable ladies,
among whom Mrs. Carmichaelhas been
distinguished for the zeal with which
she has devoted herself to every good
work. It is a most interesting sight to
see whole camps of these poor chUdren
led^ and to hear their chorus of salu-
tations to the European visitors. The
Gordon Orphanage, at St. Thom6, for
orphan European or Eurasian girls, is
a most useful charity. The playground
is close to the sea, and the girls perform
their gymnastics with a vigour which
speaks much for the healthiness of the
place. Visitors may be sure that, in
contributing to this establishment, they
are* rescuing the young from a life of
misery and degradation.

The College^ where civilians are still
examined, is between the Observatory
and Anderson's Bridge, a little to the
rt. after crossing that bridge, when
going to the Observatory, and close to
Sie S. side of the Kuam river. The
very extensive library of the Literary
Society, a branch of the Royal Asiatic
Society, is here. The Mackenzie MSS.,
in upwards of 60 gigantic volumes, may
be noticed, containing a mass of his-
torical and legendary lore respecting
the S. of India. There is also a por-
iiTu't of the well-known French mis-
tioaary, the AbbS Dubois, dressed as a

native of India. He spent 25 years in
Maisiir.

The Railway Stations. — ^The central
station of the Madras Rly. is 700 yds.
N. by W. of the Fort. It is a magnifi-
cent building, and certainly one of the
iinest stations in India, but excessively
hot, as the breeze is completely shut
out. The S. of India Central Station
is comparatively insignificant. It
takes about 10 minutes to drive there
from Government House, from which
it is 1 m. distant to the N.W.

ROUTE 1.

MADRAS TO THE SEVEN PAOODAS.

The first expedition the traveller
must make, after having seen the
sights at Madras itself, is to Mahd-
malai-puram, "great hill-town," or
M^valivaram, or the Seven Pagodas,
one of the most remarkable places in
India, and within a very moderate
distance from the capital. It will be
well to select if possible a moonlight
night for the journey. The distance
from Madras Fort is about 30 m., 6
of which can be done in a carriage to
Guindy Bridge, where the canal is
reached. A boat must be engaged a
day or two beforehand, at a cost of
about 17 rs. If more than one person
is going, another boat must be engaged
for the servants. As there is seldom
any wind, the boatmen drag the boat
or scull it with a large stern-oar, and
the whole distance is done in from 12
to 14 hours. There is no cabin or
other accommodation on board these
boats, so that it is nsttft^garj \a \sii.^
one's bed and "mowpaXa ^^fl^aa5!a «b^
also pTOViBians ttcA.^'caR^^'st TSRJCcMis^
can be got at t\i<&Ni^\^^^^^«s^^^^'^"

154

EotUe 1. — Madras to tlie Seven Pagodas. Sect. II.

livaram. The canal runs due N. and
S., and is called the East Coast Canal.
It goes as far as Sadras, which is be-
tween 2 and 3 m. S. of Mdvalivaram.
On the 1. bank of the canal, to the
K. of it, and between it and the sea,
are the excavations and carvings in
the rock, which have rendered the
place so famous. The boat should
stop opposite fialipitham, a small vil-
lage, having the village of Saluvan
Kuppan, or " toddy-gatherers' village,'*
about 1^ m. to the N., where is the
curious Tiger Cave, figured by Mr.
Fergusson at p. 333 of Ms " History of
Indian Architecture," and the large
village of MAvalivaram to the S. and
E. The distance between the canal
and the sea is 1^ m., and from 1 m. S.
of SAluvan Kuppan to 4 m, S. of it
there are a great number of curious
excavations and carvings. After land-
ing opposite Balipitham, follow the
rd, straight for about \ m., when you
come to a hamlet, called Pillaiyan
Kovil, where is a remarkable group of
monkeys. They are admirably carved,
and are the size of the large baboon.
The male is sitting behind the female,
and is busy removing vermin from her
hair. She sits with her back to him,
and is suckling a young one. At 200
yds. further on, a Chdwadi (choultry) is
passed, being a rest-house for Indians.
It is on the 1. going towards the sea,
as are also 8 stone figures, at about 30
yds. from it. The centre figure repre-
sents the goddess Durgd, with her right
leg on her left knee, and 4 female atten-
dants on her left hand, and 3 on her
right hand. 10 yds. in front of this
group is a highly polished black pillar,
4 ft. 6 in. high, a Lingam with the
curious curved mark, and 6 yds. in
front of it is a Nandi or Shiva's bull,
fallen on its side. After this you
enter deep sand, and pass a good many
huts on the r., and a fishing village
on the 1. ; and so after a walk of in
all about 1^ m., the shore temple is
reached. It is on the edge of the sea.
And is dedicated, first to Maha Bali
Cbakravartti, and, secondly, to Shiva.
-Ti^ stands in an enclosure, which was
«^ one time surrounded by a granite
w^«//, but now only ddbris remain and

two uprights where the gate was. The
porch or outer room on the N. side
has a large slab in the centre of the
wall opposite the door, with Shiva and
Pdrvatl in alto rilievo upon it. This
room is 74 ft. from E. to W., and 6 ft.
4 in. from N. to S. The stone of the
large inner room of the Temple, the
door of which faces the sea, is very
much decayed. The mortar has been
picked out, and there are great holes
in the walls. In the centre of the E.
wall is a figure with 8 arms, which
the guides say is an attendant on Bali.
The wall is 33 ft. long from E. to W.,
and 18 ft. from N. to S., outside
measure. In the inner part is a fallen
Lingam. On the slab facing the door
Shiva and PArvati are represented in
alto rilievo. This room is 17 ft. high,
and 9 ft. square. The E. portal of the
temple is on the brink of the surf,
and about 10 ft. above the sea, and
right in front, on a rock 74 ft. 10 in.
off, is the JDhwaja-iftavihlia, ."flag-
pillar," or ZHpa-gtarnhJia, "lamp
pillar" of granite, and now only 18 ft.
high, but which, before it was broken,
was probably 35 ft. high. It is diffi-
cult to reach this pillar even in calm
weather, but in rough weather it would
be quite impossible — so fiercely do the
waves roll in. In a vestibule at the
W. side of the temple, is a recumbent
figure of Vishnu, 10 ft. 10 in. long.
The guides say it is Bali. They also
affirm that 5 m. to the E., in the sea,
are ruined temples.* The fact is, there

* Mr. Fergusson, in his " Picturesque Illus-
trations of Ancient Architecture in Hindu-
stan/' p. 67, quotes from Southey's '* Curse of
Kehama " tJie lines :

" The sepulchres
Of ancient kings, which Bali in his power
Made in primeval times, and built above

them
A city like the cities of the gods— -
Being like a god himself. For many an age
Hath Ocean warred against his palaces,
Till overwhelmed beneath the waves —
Not overthrown— so well the awful chief
Had laid their deep foundations.

Their golden summits in the noonday light
Shone o'er tVie daxk gceen deep that rolled

between ;
Her dome* an^ TpVanw^ea «n^ «^Vk» ^ck. wwa.
Peering above i\ift aea, «.mwvttS>a\.«i^\.,

Sect. II.

Moute 1. — Tlie Seven Pagodas,

155

are heavy breakers about 1 m. or so
out, where there is a reef of rocks, and
the shore all along is so rocky that it
is not likely that the sea has encroached
much within the historic period, so
that the legends of a city being sub-
merged here are probably quite un-
founded. Indeed a gentleman, who
has written on the Seven Pagodas,
sounded the sea along the coast and
found nothing to indicate submerged
buildings. At about 30() yds. N. of
the temple is a fishing village called
Karmiguriamman Kovil, where are the
ruins of a brick building, said to have
been a French church. S. of the temple,
at the distance of 200 yds., is a ruined
building, called Chetti's Temple, which
is 23 ft. 9 in. long from N. to S., and
18 ft. from E. to W. It is of granite.
Leaving the shore temple the traveller
will next walk 600 yds. through deep
sand due W. to a plain Mandapam
of Vishnu. 12 yds. S. of it is a fine
tank, with steps down to the water
all round. The water is said to be
drinkable, but the villagers prefer
the water of the wells. The N. side
of the tank'is 252 ft. long, the E. and
W. sides, 2o7 ft. There is a small Man-
dapam in the centre of the tank, called
Kiralji Mandapam (water pavilion).
N.E. of the tank are many trees, and
quite a village of Brdhman houses.
Passing these you come to the great
sculptured rock called Arjuna's
Penance, and as the morning sun
will now be getting very hot, it will
be well to turn to the S.W., where a
nicely sheltered monolithic temple
will be found, open to the front, called
Varahaswdmi Mandapam, or " My
Lord Boar's Temple," from the re-
presentation of A^ishnu in the Boar
Incarnation with the head of a boar.

And on the sandy shore, beside the verge
Of Ocean, here and there a rook-cut fane
Resisted, in its strength, the surf and

surge
That on their deep foundations beat in vain."

The same authority makes this temple about
30ft. sq. in the base, and about twice that in
height, and adds " notwithstanding its small
dimensions it is, with the single exception of
the temple at Tanjiir, tlie finest and most im-
portant vimdna I have seen, or know of in

Here it will be well to breakfast,
sheltered from the sun, and repose
till towards evening. There are retiring
places among the rocks where one can
bathe without being seen, but it will
be well to take a few pardahs or tent-
screens with one for greater privacy and
comfort. The absence of insects, espe-
cially flies, is very remarkable here in
the cold weather. The Yarihasw^mi
Mandapam is f m. S. of Balipitham,
where the traveller leaves the canal.
The facade of the Mandapam is sup- ^
ported by 2 pillars and 2 pilasters, tne
bases of which are carved to represent
the Simha or Southern Lion, a mythi-
cal animal, not at all like a real lion.
They are sedent, and their tails are
twisted in a peculiar manner, like the
loop of &. In the centre of the wall,
opiwsite to the f agade, is a small alcove,
which is the sanctum, but there is no
idol in it. It is 6 ft. 3 in. high, 4 ft.
deep from E. to W., and 4 ft. 7 in.
broad from N. to S. On either side is
a DwArpdl in alto rilievo. In the
side wall to the N. is a representation
of the Vardha incarnation, fairly well
done, but unfinished. The central
figure is Vishim with a huge boar's
head. He has his right leg bent up,
and resting on a figure issuing ap-
parently from waves. The Shesh N4g,
or six-headed serpent, over-canopies
the figure, which has the face of a
handsome youth, whose hands are
joined in prayer. This figure is pro-
bably intended for Ananta, ** the end-
less serpent." In front of him are 2
male figures, the nearest of which is
praying with joined hands to Vishnu.
Vishnu supports on his right thigh a
well-shaped female, his wife, Lakh^mi,
whose figure is however dispropor-
tionately, short, being not so long as
the boar's head. Vishnu presses her
hips with his right hand, and with his
left grasps her right leg at the ankle.
His huge snout touches her breast.
Her feet are broken off. To his N. is
a worshipping figure in the sky, and
2 tall figures, one of whom holds a
water-pot fox ablMtvow^. Tbr. \iasife S&
supposed to \>fc ^;)Q»^. ^>BKCL^S.^wKn^ ^'s^ ^
the g^aat B\sm■^^'a^^'' ^<^^^^^ ^^^V
who \iaA caitv^ o^^iJcia ^^'Cq.\»5^ "«=

156

Houte 1. — Madras to the Seven Pagodas. Sect. II,

infinite abyss. Vishnu, with the head
of a boar, pursued and slew him, and
brought back the earth. On the oppo-
site side wall, to the S., is a very spirited
representation of the Vdmana Avatdra,
or Dwarf Incarnation, in alto rilievo.
Vishnu, dilated to an immense size,
places one foot on the earth, and lifts
another to the sky. The 3rd foot with
which he is said to have thrust down
Bali to Naraka, or the Infernal regions,
is not visible. The god has 8 arms,
with which he holds a sword, a
quoit, a shield, a bow, and a lotus,
and with a 6th he points. The other
2 are indistinct. Worshippers or at-
tendants are at his feet, and other
figures appear in the skies. One to the
S. has the head of a dog, and seems to
be addressing a grave worthy of di-
minutive size in a squatting posture.
There is a strange thing like a starfish
in his lap, or it may be meant for one
of Vishnu's hands. The legend is that
when Bali was tyrannising over the
earth, Vishnu approached him in the
shape of a dwarf, and asked for so
much earth as he could plant his feet
upon. Bali granted this modest re-
quest, whereupon Vishnu dilated to
immense proportions and planted one
foot on earth, one on the sky, and
with a third thrust Bali down to
hell. The capitals of the pillars in
the facade are very elegant. In the
wall in which is the alcove are two
compartments ; in the one to the
spec^tor's rt. as he looks in from the
fa9ade, is a tall slim womUn, probably
intended for Lakhshmi, with a tiger
to her rt., and an antelope to her 1.
and some squat Ganas or heavenly at-
tendants about her. In the compart-
ment to the spectator's 1. is Lakhshmi
seated, with elephants pouring water
over her from their trunks, and fe-
male attendants on either side. These
figures are indelicate. In the ceiling
is a large lotus ornament. About 30
yds. to the N. of the Vardhaswdmi Man-
dapam is a monolithic temple carved
out of a huge boulder. In the facade
^^ 2 pillara and 2 pilasters. This
fempJe is dedicated to Ganesh. It is
i^ /^' ^ ^"' ^^^S from N. to S., 4 ft. 1
^. from E. to W., and 25 ft. 3 in. high.

Turning to the W. you pass 5 fallen
pillars 29 ft. long, and other debris ;
and further on come to the great
carving called *'Arjima's Penance."
Before you reach it there is a flat,
rock on the rt, about 5 ft. high, with
steps carved in the rock up to it.
There is also a slope in the rock down
which the villagers slide to amuse
visitors. The great carving has been
enclosed by the English Government
with a fence of masonry supports,
and thwart pieces of timber. This
enclosure is 84 ft. long from N. to S.,
and there is a pit 8 ft. deep in front of
the carving, which is thus rendered
difficult of access. The sculptured
rock is 37 ft. high. In the compart-
ment on the rt. of the spectator, as he
looks towards it, are 57 figures of men,
women, monkeys, and a cock. The
monkeys are 3 in number, and all
these figures are above an elephant
13 ft. 10 in. high, and a smaller one
6 ft. 7 in. in height, below which are
3 cub elephants. In the 1. compart-
ment of the sculpture are 61 figures,
the most remarkable of all being that
which is said to represent Arjuna,
standing on one toe of his left foot
with his hands above his head, his lips
being drawn away so as to show his
teeth, and his body being horribly
emaciated. Below him is a devilish
figure in a similar attitude, with long
ears, which seems to ridicule his per-
formance. To his rt. is a tall deity,
probably Shiva, pointing to him ap-
provingly. Adjoining this great piece
of sculpture, to the 1. of the spectator
as he looks at it, is a temple with 6
pillars and 2 pilasters, the bases beinfi:
carved into the shape of the Simha, or
Southern Lion, spoken of above in the
mention of the Vardha temple. The
facade is 49^ ft. long, and the interior
is 40 ft. deep, the rock having been
hewn out to that depth. The pillars
have curious capitals formed of 3 lions
each, the side lions having riders and
the centre ones not. The pillars are
10 ft. 11 in. high. In the same direc-
tion, 7 ft. further on, is another temple
with ioviT piWota aiA Vwo pilasters,
48 ft. loTxg iiomTS.Vo ^., m^ ^v> 1\..
deep, indudins l\v^ igi\W»i». 0\\. \>aa

Sect. IL

£oiUe 1. — TIte Seven Pagodas,

157

back wall is a relief representing Go-
pis or milk-maids, and herdsmen, and
cows. To the rt. stands Krishna sup-
porting with his left hand the hill of
Govardhan. About the centre is a
man milking a cow, which is excel-
lently carved, and is represented as
licking her calf. The pillars have the
same capitals as those of Bijiinagar,
that is, with a bracket representing
the shoot and flower of the plantain.
About 15 yds. N.E. of this is^ a large
temple to Vishnu, which is kept locked,
as the Br^hmans of the locality worship
there. The central block is 88 ft. long.
The Gopnra of stone and masonry is
about 44 ft. high. This temple ex-
tends 165^ ft. from back to front. As
the spectator looks towards its door,
he has on his rt. and close to it
another small ruined temple on which
is an inscription, and opposite to it is
a figure resembling BudcUia with marks
which show it has been adopted as
Vishnu. There has been an extensive
w^ed inclosure, or court, in front of
this great temple, and there is a very
solid gateway partly preserved. In
front of this again is a lofty slim
pavilion on four pillars, 25^ ft. high.
This will probably soon fall unless
cared for. Pass now to the E, up a
slight ascent, and you come to the.
R^nanajl temple. The fagade has
two pillars based on Simhas and two
pilasters, and is 22 ft. 3 in. long from
W. to B. and 18 ft. 9 in. deep. The
pillars from the floor to the ceiling
are 9 ft. 3 in. high. There is an in-
scription here in old Sanskrit charac-
ters. Proceed now 1 J m. towards the
sea in a S.E. direction until a group of
monolithic temples, called by the
ignorant, Raths^ is reached. The road
is over very deep sand, and is most
fatiguing. Here ladies or weak tra-
vellers can be carried in chairs by the
villagers, who walk with them a great
deal faster than they could walk
themselves. The first objects come
to are a lion and an elephant carved
in stone and partly sunk in the sand.
The head of the elephant is particu-
larly well done. The lion is furthest
to the N. A little to the S.E. is
Draupadi'8 Rath, and 8, of it Arjuna's,

and S. of this again Bhima^s, and
S. of all Dharma R&jd's. To the
W. is Nakula and Saiiadeva's and
the elephant. Draupadi's Rath has
2 dwdrpals and a plain roof. It
is 11 ft. square and 16 ft. high.
Bhima's is 10 ft. from E. to W. and
16 ft. 5 in. from N. to S., and 20 ft. 5
in. high. Nakula's is 10 ft. from N.
to S., 14 ft 9 in. from E. to W., and
19 ft. 8 in. high. Arjuna's is 48 ft,
from E. to W., and 26 ft. from N. to
S. and 25 ft. high, and has 4 pillars
and 2 pilasters. Dharma R&j4's is 26
ft. 10 in. from N. to S., and 29 ft. from
E. to W., and 36 ft. high. Proceed
now } m. to the N.W. and reach a
small temple perched on a rock over
the temple of Durg^. On your rt. as you
enter Durgd's temple is a most spirited
relief representing Durg^ mounted on
a lion destroying Mahish&sur, the buf-
falo-headed demon. This temple is 29
ft. 4 in. from E. to W., and 23 ft. from
N. to S. On your 1. as you enter is
a relief representing Vishnu recum-
bent. The platform of the upper tem-
ple is 56 ft. above that of Durg^'s, and
very difficult of access, but the guides
spring up the slippery rock with won-
derful agility. If the traveller is able
to give only one day to these ex-
cavations it will now be dark and
time to embark in his boat to return.
If he has longer time he can examine
the sculptures more minutely, and
might possibly find some which have
not been here mentioned. At present
the best guide is a young man named
Murga, who holds certificates, and it
will be well to ask for him. His fee
will be from 2 to 4 rs., and if others
accompany him 1 r. will suffice for
them. A most complete and valuable
account of these excavations will be
found in the work entitled " Descrip-
tive and Historical Papers relating to
the Seven Pagodas on the Coromandel
Coast, by W. Chambers, J. Golding-
ham, B. G. Babington, F.A.S., the Rev.
G. W. Mahon, Lieut. J. Braddock,
the Rev. W. Taylor, Sir Walter Elliot,
and C. Gubbins, edited by Capt, M.
W. Cart *, TptiTAfc^lot\3wi^Q"^«rKss^^^
of MadTOR, «ifc ^i)fta ^o'eXet "^^'e!^^ "la*-,

''^[^^

158

Boute 2. — Madras to Porto Novo,

Sect. II.

age of these sculptures has never been
definitely ascertained. No date has
been found in anj of the inscriptions.
Mr. Fergusson, " History of Architec-
ture," voL ii. p. 502, says the Rathas
were " carved by the Hindiis, probably
about 1300 A.D." Sir W. Elliot fixes
the era of the oldest Tamil inscrip-
tion on the rocks of M^valivaram at
the latter part of the 11th cent., and
that of the rock inscription at Sdluvan
Kuppan at the beginning of the 12th.
The Sanskrit inscriptions are of earlier
date. Sir W. EUiot thinks that they
could not have been later than the 6th
cent. Mr. Fergusson says, ^' Although
these Baths are comparatively modem
and belong to a different faith, they
certainly constitute the best represen-
tations now known of the forms of the
Buddhist buildings." A copy and
translation of the Sanskrit inscrip-
tions by Dr. Arthur Bumell will be
found in the Appendix of the work
referred to above. Sadras, an old
Dutch settlement, is 3 m. further to
the S. by the canal, but is hardly worth
a visit.

ROUTE 2.

MADBAS TO PORTO NOVO.

The South of India Company cannot
guarantee the times printed in its time-
tiskbles being kept under all circum-
stances, nor do they hold themselves
responsible for delay. Passengers can
be booked at intermediate stations only
on condition that there shall be room in
the train. To insure being booked, pas-
sengera should he at ihe station at least
SO minutes before the time mentioned
Jn the tubles. Tickets torn or muti-
^ted win not be recognized. The

maximum penalty for travelling or at-
tempting to travel without payment
is 50 rs. After passengers have left
the booking office mistakes in tickets
or money cannot be recognized.
Children under 3 travel free ; from 3
to 12, pay J fare. A Ist-class double
saloon carriage will be reserved for
a party paying 6 Ist-class tickets, half
ditto on paying 3 ; a 2nd-class carriage
on paying 20 2nd-class tickets ; a
compartment on paying 5 2nd-class
tickets. All servants without refer-
ence to race can accompany their
employers in the 1st or 2nd class
carriages on paying the next lowest
class fares. 1st class passengers are
allowed free of charge 120 lbs. of
luggage ; 2nd class 60 lbs. ; 3rd class
20 lbs. All in excess will be chareed
2 pies per man per m. All luggage
must be prepaid, and must be at the
station 20 minutes before the train
starts. No luggage is allowed in the
carriages but what can be placed
under the seat. Live animals are
separately charged for. Lost luggage
is placed in the lost luggage office at
Triehindpalli Junction and Madras.
A fee of 2 dnds is charged on each lost
article, but after the first month a
storage charge of 4 dnds is made ; if
not claimed within 6 months the lug-
gage will be sold to pay expenses.
The company will not be responsible
for valuable articles, such as gold and
silver, unless an increased charge has
been paid for them. On 24 hours'
notice to the Traffic Manager or Dis-
trict Traffic Superintendent at Triehi-
ndpalli and Madura special or re-
served accommodation may be had.
Any person attempting to enter a
train in motion is liable to a penalty
of 20 rs. Parcels must be delivered at
stations 30 minutes before the depar-
ture of the trains. When horse-boxes
or carriage-truohs are required notice
should be given one day before. Dogs
must be each provided with a mvzzle,
collar, and chain, and on no account
will be allowed to accompany passen-
gers inside the carriages. The Com-
pany^ B aervaofcB «t^ "^toMbited from
xeceivvng %i«A,\xi\Aft» xxxvdkfct ^^tvi ^1
dlsmiBBsl.

! 2. — Uadrat to Porto Novo.

Uasbas to Fobto Novo.

Hilaa.

Names of Htnttons

t™

BIMIHKS

Frran

Statton

Ugdna.

X.H.

UldRUI . . .

fl.O

Names ot »t>t>an« an written In
EngUahUidTimU.

Saldapet . . .

T,4B

The station here ii a snull, open, red-

St Tboma.' Mount .

8.0

e.30

A VKtly Btdtion-taouH on rL, with
cWortabla WMiling-raom.

111

PalBVamni .

«. S

GudumnoUnii . " *

8. r

7«

hlUa dotted with liwa.

•A

9.H

A liouaa ia being built DU L

ChengalpM .

A large town and fnpital at s col-

K.l»tWr , . .

!1).43

leetoist». Between it and Kiilat-

11,53

tilr tha Pulir r ii emaasd bf >

ilo

bridge or 1$ apana at 130 IL aoob.

Thla bridga ia4am. Sllcb. 8. of

OlttktOr . . ,

11 2

HiidrBg.

Tlndaviuiain .

8tatlDmorTl>ltinEtlieFDnofCben]I.

»l

Paiiiatl . ' . ' ;

.■

r. i8fln«»8dbral)rid8BO(l7»p«i«

A. 3

oruiort. ewh. Tlilamise ia luTn.

""""ess

aeluaorMadM. ^

&.1T

Bafoie reaohlng Qudalilr (New Town)

ij;t

(Old Town)

i.4t)

crosa the Peaia i. . here nallud tlia
OadidaDi. by .brtlgB with w span.
oflWrtoach. ThlabridgelBl24n.,

iMi

a,is

At 63 ch. to the B. of AtamWAun
cross the Paiavanir r. by a bi Idge

Porto Novo . (-UTlve)

At 39 ch. S. or Porto Nova the Penit

each of 150 ft. Thia hriilge is 145 in.

Ihe^KoUdin (CoiB^B) t, I°"™»ed
by a bridge of 4 apina, aaoh ar ISO
K. ThlilildgeiriMin. B2ch.S.

The tTftTelleis' b. at Ovdalur is a
little more than | m. B. of the S. eod
ij£ lie bridge over the Penir r. on the
Puducheri i^., and that end of the
bridge Is 1^ m. N. of the Collector's
Jiaeheid or office. Fort St. David \i
on the sea-Bhore on the N. side of the
Oadaldr or Geddalam r. The old town
of OudalUr lies on the S, side of the r.,
and about a m. to the 8. of ita S. bank.
KewTami(arthe Civil Lines) lies about
£m. If. of the old town, and like Fort
Bt. David on the N.side of the Ctedda-

The Clril Lines are studded
i, and 08 the »

close there is generally a hreeie. The
Club, where a bed-room can almoit
alwa^ be got, stands centrally 1 j m.
E. of the t. b. As soon as the traveller
comfortably located, be should
borrow from the church a book en-
tiUed " The Cuddalore Obituary,"
being copies dt ■*% iii'«Tvtfi!!t« tS.
t&b\et8 ani iiKfmnoeoSa ^a. ■&)» ^tsasjSa
and cemeteTiw tA C^^**^*^^'/^^
Mather. TUa wifticff '«'>» »»■«*. V^

160

Houte 2. — Gudalur — Fort St, David.

Sect II.

sioner,! and died a few days after he
had finished the book, which is a
marvel of calligraphy, and ought to be
photographed, for there is nothing so
beautiful of its kind to be seen any-
where. Not only are the epitaphs ex-
quisitely copied, but the escutcheons,
and in some cases the tombs, are most
artistically drawn, and are very inter-
esting in themselves. There are in all
39 epitaphs, beginning with that to
Mrs. Mary and Catherine Davis, of the
3l8t of December, 1683, and the 29th
of November, 1684, wife and child of
Mr. John Davis, " Cheife of Coodalore."
Among the epitaphs most) deserving
notice is that to Henry Eden, Esq.,
^^ an amiable young gentleman of an
ancient family residing in Durham,"
who died on the 5th of June, 1768,
aged 20. He is buried in a vault in
the nave of Christ Church. There is
also the epitaph to " Vicessimus {sic)
Grifl&th, Merchant, youngest son of
Sir John Griffith, Kt., and lately third
in Council," who died 5th of October,
1705. He is buried in the old ceme-
tery in Komity-street. Bemark also
the epitaph to C. E. Macdonald, Esq.,
C.S., "who, whilst in the discharge of
his duty, was brutally murdered at
Kadapah by an infuriated mob of
Muslims, on the 15th of June, 1832, in
the 24th year of his age, and of Agnes
his wife, who died on the 7th of July,
1832, of a broken heart, aged 20."
This is a white marble tomb in the
aisle of Christ Church. Observe also
the epitaph to " John Hallyburton, an
honest, brave man, and a sincere lover
of his country, who was basely mur-
dered on the 27th day of August, 1748,
by a mutinous Sip&hi, at the siege of
Pondicheri, where he served in quality
of voluntier (*ic)." This monument
is in the old cemetery in Komity-street.
There is also a monument in the com-
pound of Christ Church erected by the
Officers of the 74th Regt. to " Hamil-
ton Maxwell, Esq., son of Sir William
Maxwell, of Monreath, Bart., aide-de-
iiaxap to the king, and Lieut-Colonel of
ICM. '8 74th Highland Begt. of Foot,
Trho died on the 8th of June, 1794."
-4 Jfew^ hours may be pleasantly occu-
pjed in visiting the Chnrch (Christ

Church), the old Cemetery in Komity-
street, and the Ja%l^ which are all close
together in the old town, close to the
backwater and the sea, and 2\ m. from
the t. b. to the S.E. The Jail is an
old cotton factory, and was built for
357 prisoners, but of late has been
over-crowded. The ventilation is bad,
but the upper rooms are large, and
might perhaps be made airy. One of
them lately fell in, the beams having
been eaten by white ants, but luckily
there were no prisoners in it at the
time. The C^wrc/i is a shabby building,
but interesting on account of the old
tombs in and about it. It belongs to
the Society for the Propagation of the
Gospel. Government paid the society
20 rs. a month for 20 years for one
service on each Sunday. The society
did nothing to the building, which was
falling to decay, but Mr. O. Irvine,
the Judge of Gudaliir, has at last pre-
vailed on the society to expend 4000 rs.
in repairs. There are 30 tombs in the
compound, which is kept clean. The

2 cemeteries in Komity-street and
Sloper or Wellington-street are fairly
well kept. Mr. Mather has overlooked

3 of the epitaphs in his Obituary, but
not important ones.

Fort St, David must, of course, be
visited on account of the historical
interest attaching to it. Orme, 4th
ed. vol. i. p. 78, says, "the E. I. C.
was here in possession of a territory
larger than that of Madras. It had
been purchased about 100 years before
(1746),* from the Indian prince of the

* This is not quite correct. It was pur-
chased in 1691, but seems first to have come
into our possession about 1682, for on the 11th
of May in that year orders were given by the
E. I. C. to establish a factory there, and
on the 9th of October, 1682, as it had failed,
it was directed tiiat one should be established
at Kangameda. John Davis re-established
the factory at Gudaliir on the 5th of May,
1683, and in September, 1690, soldiers and
stores were sent to Fort St. David or Tegna-
patam. In October, 171S, Robert Baworth
rebelled at Fort St. David, and fired on Gover-
nor Harrison's men. For this the Directors of
the £. I. C. were about to punish him, but in
December, 1713, he went to Paris, where he
died. In 1725 the Directors santitioned the
conatrucUon ot &\»s>t\on. on the E. face of St
David, and \ii Via% a va^^« \ft»^»s!A "wtsia
built beivreeu Gu^altcc wtieL Wvft Ycp^, "V^'^!}^^^
the Fort Ycaa m\)LC\i \m\>ws%»i>, «a^ ^ ^v«

Sect. II.

Route 2. — Fort St David.

161

country, and their title to it was con-
firmed by the Mughul's Viceroy, when
the Moors conquered the KarnAtik . . .
the Fort was small but better forti-
fied than any of its size in India, and
served as a citadel to the Company's
territory . . . The government of Fort
St. David depended on that of Madras,
to which it was immediately the next
in rank ; but on the breach of the
treaty of ransom the Company's agents
at Fort St. David, regarding those at
Madras as prisoners to the French,
took upon themselves the general ad-
ministration on the coast of Coroman-
del." On the night of the 8th of
December, 1746, the French, 1700
strong, with 50 European cavalry, 6
guns, and 6 mortars, marched to attack
the Fort. They were commanded by
M. Bury, the oldest officer of the
French troops in India. At IJ m. to
the N.W. of Fort St. David was a
country house appointed for the resi-
dence of the Governor, and behind
which to the N. was a large garden
enclosed with a brick wall. The
French passed the Pen4r r. , about \ m.
from the garden, of which they took
possession, and then dispersed to cook
food and sleep. While at this disad-
vantage, they were attacked by the
army of the NiiwAb of the KarnAtik,
consisting of 6000 horse and 3000
foot. The French retreated over the
river in great disorder, with the loss of
120 Europeans wounded and 12 killed,
and a great part of their baggage. By
the command of M. Dupleix, other
attempts were made by the French
against Gudaliir and Fort St. David,
but were repulsed. In 1749 the E. I. C.
ordered the Presidency of their settle-
ments on the coast of Coromandel to
continue fixed at Fort St. David, the

extensive works were constructed. The river
was diverted on the W. in order to widen the
ditch to 100 feet, and bomb proofs were built,
which still exist At the same time the horn-
work on the N. and lunettes on the E. and W.
were begun, but the horn-work was not
finished till 1749. The village of Devapat^
nam, and all the houses in that direction,
within 800 yards of the Fort, were removed
A battery was erected near the burial ground.
The Dutch factory stood till 1758, shortly
before the siege of the Fort. In 1747 a mint
was established at Gudaldr.

fortifications of which had been much
improved. In 1756 Lieut.-Col. Clive,
afterwards Lord Clive, was appointed
governor of Fort St. David. In April,
1758, M. Lally sent the Count
D'Estaign with 1000 Europeans and
1000 Sipdhis against Gudaliir and
Fort St. David, which latter had been
much strengthened, but was defective
on account of the want of space, being
only 140 ft. broad from W. to E., and
390 long from N. to S. The 4 bastions
at the angles mounted each 12 guns.
The curtains, as well as the bastions,
were surroui^ded by a faussebray with
a brick parapet. The out-works were,
a horn- work to the N. mounting 34 guns ;
two large ravelins, one on the E. the
other on the W., a ditch round all, which
had a cuvette cut along the middle, and
was supplied with water from the r. of
Tripapoliir; the scarp and counter-
scarp of the ditch faced with brick ;
a broad covered way excellently pali-
saded, with arrows at the salient
angles commanding the glacis, and the
glacis itself was provided with well-
constructed mines. All these works,
excepting the horn -work, were planned
by Mr. Robins, but the horn-work was
raised with much ignorance and ex-
pense before his arrival in India, the
whole being of solid masonry, and the
rampart t<x> narrow to admit the free
recoil of the guns. The ground to the
N. of the fort, included by the sea, the
rs. of Pen4r and Tripapoliir, and the
canal which joins them, is a plot of
sand, rising in several parts ii^ large
hillocks, wliich afford good shelter
against the fort. On the edge of the
canal, 1300 yds. to the N. of the fort,
stood an obsolete redoubt called
Chuckly Point. It was of masonry,
square, mounted 8 guns, and in the
area were lodgments for the guard ;
the entrance was a palisaded gate
under an arch, but the redoubt was
not enclosed by a ditch. About 200
yds. to the rt. of this stood another
such redoubt, on a sand-hiU called
Patcharee ; 400 yds. in the rear of
these redoubts was another sand-hill^
much laigiet ^ik<asi >i)aa.\. cil ^«^J2Gaa?^^
on. -which. )i)[i€i Tiu^jcJci \isA ^ l^^Riwscv
house ca\Xe^ Tci<e^erMc^^^y«ss^^^'^ *^^

162

Boute 2. — Madras to Porta Novo,

Sect. II.

recovery and release. Many years
after, when the French army, under
Bemadotte, entered Hanover, Wangen-
heim, among others, attended the vic-
tor's lev6e. Bemadotte asked him if
he had not served in India and at
Gudaliir ? and on his replying in the
affirmative, inquired if he remembered
a wounded sergeant to whom he had
been kind ? The Hanoverian said he
recollected him well, that he was a
fine gallant fellow, and he should like
much to know what had become of
him. " Behold him in me ! " exclaimed
Bemadotte, and added that nothing
should be wanting on his part to testify
his gratitude.

On the 27th of June, 1783, two days
after the garrison had made their
desperate sally, the Meditsa frigate
arrived from Madras, bringing news
of the peace between England and
France, and Gudaliir and Fort St.
David came again into the hands of
the English. Gudaliir is now a city of
40,290 inhab., and the capital of a
t'alukah or district, with a pop. of
284,849, and of the coUectorate of S.
Arkat, which has an area of 4873 sq.
m., besides the territory of Puducheri
belonging to the French. The Chris-
tians here number 30,817. The Mu-
hammadans, chiefly Sunnis, number
44,567, and the Jams 3861 . There are
2 mimicipalities in S. ArkAt, Gudaliir,
and Chedambaram. The ditch of Fort
St. David is almost filled up, and all
that remains of the once strong ram-
part is the foundation, with here and
there lumps of the fallen wall. A
bridge over the canal is crossed before
entering the Fort, and 30 yds. or so
further on is a small monument in-
scribed —

house had lately been demolished ;
and a fascine battery of 5 guns was
raised on the hill. In a line on the
1. of this hill, and on the brink of
the canal was a gateway, with a nar-
row rampart and battlements, which
commanded a bridge immediately
under it leading to the canal. The
garrison consisted of 619 Europeans
and 1600 Natives, but of the Europeans
only 286 were effective. The siege
began on the 16th of May, 1758, and
the French soon carried the outworks,
while the garrison wasted their ammu-
nition in a fruitless and incessant
cannonade. On the 1st of June, M.
D'Ache made his appearance with 8
large French men-of-war manned with
33S) men ; and on the 2nd, Major
Poller, who commanded the English
garrison, and Mr. Wynch, the tem-
porary governor, surrendered, and M.
Lially o:^ered the fortifications to be
razed to the ground. In April, 1760,
Colonel Coote recovered Gudaliir, and
on the 3rd of April, 1782, it surren-
dered to the combined French and
Malsiirean army. The French then
greatly strengthened the works, and
threw in a powerful garrison under
the command of the Marquis de Bussy ;
and on the 13th of June, 1783, General

Stuart, who took 40 days to march
from Madras, though the distance Is

only 110 m., attacked the place, and

was repulsed with a loss of 62 officers

and 920 men, <^ almost all Europeans,

either dead or mortally wounded

on the field." (See Mill, vol. iv.,

p. 272!) On the 20th the EngHsh

fleet under Sir Edward Hughes, and

the French under Suffrein, fought a

battle off Gudaliir with a dubious re-
sult. On the 25th the garrison having

been reinforced with 2400 men from

the French fleet made a sally, but

were repulsed with a loss of 600 men.

Among the wounded French prisoners

was a young sergeant, who, by his

noble appearance, attracted the atten-
tion of Colonel Wangenheim, the

officer commanding the Hanoverian
troops in the EngUsb service, to such
a degree, that he ordered the young
man to be conveyed to hia own tent, \ Close to t\us \b «»i \»\\. ^ i^. 5vftR,^, ^\.
rrhere he was kindly treated until his 1 the "bottom oi N»\iie\im«3 \3fe ^ftsa^Ocv^

In Memoriam

Labomm, dolonim ac ludorum

Comitis fidelis

* Nettle'

Eheul tenebrosft nocte,

Anguis latentis victimse.

Hoc monumentum erexit

Moerens.

John Law, sc.
Obiit ^*^'*-

Sect. ir.

Eoute 2. — GudalUr — Pondicherry,

163

brickwork of the entrance to a subter-
raneous gallery now choked up, but
which went to a distance under the
Fort. With the warning inscribed on
the monument of the dog, confronting
visitors, it is not likely that this gallery
will be explored. From the ruined
bastion here there is a view over the
Backwater, and a spit of land covered
with trees which intervenes. After
entering the Fort, there is a good house
on the 1. which is inhabited by an
English family. Half a mile to the
N., after passing through an avenue of
tall trees, a mound is reached with
seats round it, and on the top the
band-stand. This is the scandal-point
of the fashionables of Gudaliir. The
greater part of the Fort is now covered
with a grove of casuarina trees.
Gudaliir (said to be from Kudal^ * con-
fluence * andwr, * a town,' as where the
Tendr and Gadilam rs. meet) suf-
fered to a certain extent from the
famine of 1877, and there is a relief
camp there, where at one time 2500
persons were collected. It is the best
place on the coast for visiting Pondi-
cherry (prop. Puducheri, " new vil-
lage "), which is about 10 m. distant
from Gudaliir, but only 7 m. from the
bridge over the Pendr r. on the out-
skirts of the civil lines. The usual
plan is to send on one's luggage and
servant in a jatka, or one-horse cart,
for which 2 rs. are paid. If it is im-
possible to borrow a carriage of any
friend, it will be necessary to adopt
the same means of conveyance for one-
self, but it is very cramped and un-
comfortable. On leaving Gudaliir, the
117th milestone from Madras is passed,
and the 110th some time before enter-
ing Puducheri. It is usual to change
horses at a small hamlet called
Xatinkij about 4 m. from Gudaliir.
You then pass at intervals three
bridges, the two first being very long
and narrow, then turn to the rt.,
then to the 1., and again to the rt.,
all the way under fine trees ; when
you reach the French cemetery on the
rt-hand of the road, and a supple-
mentaTT- one on the 1. The Gemetm'y^
in all its three dirisiona is admirably
kept, and the moumneDts are singularly

handsome. Many of the tombs are
surmounted by domes, and have fold-
ing doors with glass panea Among
the noticeable ones may be mentioned
those of the Amalrie, Frion, and Victor
families. There is also one to " Comet
Ellis John Fatio, of the 1st Regiment
of Native Cavalry, who lost his life at
this place by a melancholy accident
on the 19th May, 1812, aged 21."
Also remark that of " Henry Francois
Smith, Colonel, compagnon du Bain,
qui a et6 40 ans au service de I'Honora-
ble Compagnie des Indes, dte6d^
le 21 F^vrier 1837." The traveller's
b. is a large building on the 1. of
tlie road about i m. before reaching
the town. On entering the capital of
the French possessions in India, one
cannot but be struck at the extreme
neatness of the streets and the elegance
of the buildings, and the whole place
has tlie appearance of an infinitesimally
small Pai'is. The Government House, a
handsome building of stone, is situated
at the end of the Rue de Pavilion
at the N. end of the town, within 30
or 40 yds. of the sea. The means of
locomotion here is a jwvjtse-jjoyisef
which is a sedan or little car on
wheels pushed by one or two men,
which glides along at a great rate
over the level streets. After paying
a visit to Government House, which
at Puducheri is simply called "Le
Gouvernement,'' and has very fine re-
ception rooms, some of them paved
with marble, it will be well to go
first to the Hospital, which is on the
W. side of the Place in which Govern-
ment House is. It was founded in
1858, and has room for 90 patients.
Oil the ground floor are two rooms
with 14 beds each on either side the
entrance. That on the 1. is for the
SipAhls, whose curious costume differs
much from that of Indian troops in
the English service, and that on the
rt. for other natives. On the same
floor is a small wing to the rt. with
a room for patients with contagious
diseases, and two rooms for oi^eca-
tious. CVvoVerak -^a^S&T^Xi^ «tfe \»i&s3w \.v>
a separate ^BXa^AV^xafioX. *! ts^.. ^cS.,
I There axe aepata\A \i^>^ "^SS^ ^
\ Europeaaa aa^ xkaX-Vse;^. ^^^ ^"^^

16-t

Route 2. — Madras to Porto Novo,

Sect. II.

for Europeans has a douche and cold
and hot-water baths. A staircase with
35 steps leads to the upper rooms,
where are separate rooms for officers,
non-commissioned officers, and sea-
men. The women's ward is separated
by an interval, and a wall. There are
only 2 beds for European women, and
12 for natives. There is a Salle d'au-
topsie with 2 marble tables. The
bodies of murderers are given to the
surgeon. There are also 3 separate
rooms for lunatics. At the entrance
into the hospital there is a very neat
chapel on the 1., and a library for stu-
dents on the rt. There are 6 pupils
in pharmacy, and 6 in surgery. S.
of the Hospital, about 50 yds. off, is
the College with 160 pupils, to whom
the classical languages, mathematics,
French and English, are taught. . This
year (1878) the natives have demanded
to be admitted, and 10 have entered.
About 100 yds. to the W. is the Cathe-
dral, which is called Notre Dame des
Anges, Ascending 8 steps you enter,
and find on the rt. an inscription
which says that the building was com-
menced in May 1851, and finished in
March 1855, after the plans and under
the direction of M. Louis Guerre, colo-
nial engineer. The church is paved
with white and black marble in al-
ternate lozenges brought from Paris,
as was that at Government House.
Before the altar is buried " Hyacinthe
Marie de Lalande de Calan, Capitaine
de frigate, chevalier de la Legion
d*Honneur, d6c6d6 14 Janvier 1850."
Next, the Fountain in the centre of
the Place may be inspected, and the
curious Latin inscription, which re-
cords the destruction in ancient times
of a bayadbre's (dancing-girl) Jiouse at
this spot. After this the Pier may be
visited, which is a little to the S. of
Government House, and is 150 metres
long. At the commencement of the
pier, ranged in a semicircle, are 8
pillars, 38 ft. high, of a greyish blue
stone, brought from Chenjl, or Gingee,
which 18 40 m. distant as the crow
A'es. The French assert that these,
and others to he presentlr mentioned,
nrere given to M. Dupleix by the
Governor of Cbenji, but some authori-

ties affirm that they were put up
within the last 20 years. On the 3rd
pillar on the 1. side, looking towards
the sea, is an astronomical plan by
some astronomers, who were directed
to fix the exact site of Puducheri.
On the next pillar is inscribed " Place
Napoleon III., 1866. Ce pont d^barca-
d6re a M execute en 1864, '65 et '66.
M. Bontemps, Gouverneur, M. Lama-
rasse, Ing^nieur en chef." 50 yds. W.
of the W. end of the pier is the statne
of Dupleix on a pedestal formed of
old fragments of temples brought from
Chenjl. At a distance this pedestal
has anything but a graceful appear-
ance, and seems formed of logs of *
wood. On the ledge is " Statue of
Dupleix, 1742—1754." The name of
the sculptor is on the N. side of the
pedestal, the inscription being " Th.
Gruy^re, Sc." Four more pillars grace
this end of the Place. The band plays
once a week, and there are seats and
a promenade. The fragments of tem-
ples, which form the pedestal, repre-
sent the Narsingh Avatdr, Durgi riding
on a lion, etc. At the S. end of the
promenade is the Hdtel de Vilhi, a
neat building, and S. of this on the
beach is a battery of 8 small guns.
There is also a lighthouse which
shows a light 89 ft. above the sea.
On the opposite side of the way
are some houses which are to be re-
moved, so as to open out the Cathe-
dral, and make a Place, which will
be called Place de Desbasseyns de
Richemont, in honour of the count of
that name, who was deputy for the
French possessions in India, and is now
senator. S. of this is the fflgJi Court
or La Covr d'Appel, a handsome square
building. A canal, which is now being
cleared out, separates the European
from the Black town. Crossing this
canal and turning to the N., you pass
a large hospital, which is being built
at the expense of the Comte de Riche-
mont. N. of this is the great Jesuit
Church, which is called La ('athMralc
de la Ville Noire. N. of this again is
a school with 450 pupils, on the facade
of which. \B m^TvViftd, College Calvi
Soupraya CVisAAiv^a. 1.^ \s «w %aa ^\:\\.^
building. T\ie Pr\«ou OtuiTole, Sa.

Sect. II.

Route 2. — PondiA:herry,

165

which are generally about 330 pri-
BonerS) is opposite to the clock-tower,
built at the expense of a native resi-
dent. Here is another pillar from
Chenji, making 13 in all. A boulevard
begins here, which goes round the
town. C!ontinuing the drive and turn-
ing to the S.E., one may visit the cot-
ton-spinning factory or Filature, be-
longing to MM. Comet et Almaric.
The manager is M. Pouliex, a native
of Puducheri, who has studied in
France. The factory is called Savanat,
and was founded in 1826 ; it employs
1400 persons. Here is an artesian
well, which gives 200 litres a minute
of beautifully clear and potable water.
This supply is increasing, and may,
perhaps, meett the requirements of the
factory, which is 600 litres a minute.
During the famine from 8000 to 9000
persons perished at Puducheri,
chiefly fugitives from other places.
The public gardens are also worth a
visit. On the second bridge will be
observed an inscription, which shows
that it marks the boundary between
French and English territory, and that
it was begun in February, 1856, and
finished in 1858. It has 34 arches,
each of 9 yds. span, making in all 918
ft. The places under the authority of
Puducheri are Kdrikal on the Coro-
mandel coast ; Ydnam, and the lodge
of Machhllpatnam, on the Orissa coast ;
Mahe and the lodge of KAlikot (Cali-
cut) on the Malabdr coast ; and Chan-
dranagar in Bengal on the Hugli. Of
these, the first is 47 m. distant from
Tanjiir to the E., and contains an area
of 63 sq. m., with a pop. of 49,307
persons, of whom 43 are Europeans ;
Ydndm is in the province of Eaja-
mah^ndri, 9 m. from the embouchure
of the Goddvari, and has an area of
8147 acres, with 6881 inhab. ; Mahe,
7 m. S.E. of Tellicheri, has an area of
2 sq. m., with 2616 inhab. ; and
Chandranagar, with 2330 acres, has
32,670 inhab., of whom upwards of
200 are Europeans. Puducheri itself
has an area of 107 sq. m., with a pop.
of 130,000 persons, of whom 790 are
white. The town contains about 30,000
mhab. The establishment is divided
into : 1, Executive and legislative, in-

cluding the governor, council of admin-
istration, and council general. 2.
Judicial, including the royal court, the
tribunal of first instance, and the tri-
bunal of peace and of police. 3. Pub-
lic instruction. 4. Marine. 5. Mili-
tary. The governor-general receives
1333 rs. a month ; the attorney-general
400, and the four senior judges 200.

In 1672, Puducheri, then a small
village, was purchased by the French
from the King of Vijayapiir, 71 years
after the first arrival of French ships
in India. In 1693, the Dutch took
Puducheri, but restored it, with the
fortifications greatly improved, in
1697 at the peace of Ryswick. On
the 26th of August, 1748, Admiral
Boscawen laid siege to it with an army
of 6000 men, but was compelled to
raise the siege on the 6th of October,
with the loss of 1065 Europeans. M.
Dupleix was the Governor, and had
under him a garrison of 1800 Euro-
peans and 2000 Sip4hls. On the 29th
of April, 1758, M. Lally landed at
Puducheri, and commenced a vigorous
war, which ended ruinously for the
French.

In the beginning of July, 1760, Col.
Coote, with 2000 Europeans, and 6000
Natives, began to blockade Puducheri.
On the 17th, a detachment of his army
imder Major Moore, attacked a French
convoy, which had with it 4000
Maisiirean horse, 1000 Sip&his, and
230 Europeans, and was entirely routed,
losing 105 Europeans, killed or
wounded , and a great number of natives.
Nevertheless, the English army hav-
ing received reinforcements on the 9th
of September, 1760, carried the bound*- •
hedge, and two of the 4 redoubts
which defended it, with the loss of
115 Europeans, and about the same
number of Sipdhls. On the 27th of
November, M. Lally, finding the
garrison hard pressed by famine,
expelled all the native inhabitants from
the town, 1400 in number. These being
driven back by the English, attempted
to re-enter the fort, but were fitred on
by the French, «wOl^ ^jcrcaa ^^ ^^sss.
killed, ¥oT % ^^^>i)aRSfc xss&.ae^3asffi^^
1 YFandeied \>&tsv^ea KJoa \saRa» ^"^ *^
\ two \iOstWa «nme», «cJ>o«v&>C\xv% ovi. ^-xw*

166

JUoiUe 2. — Madras to Porto Novo,

Sect. II.

food which they had about them, and
the roots of grass. At last, finding
Lally inexorable, the English suffered
them to pass.

On the night of the 30th of Decem-
ber, while an English fleet of 8 sail of
the line, 2 frigates, a fire ship, and a
transport were at anchor in the roads,
a terrific storm arose. The Newcastle,
the Qneenboroiigh frigate, and Protec-
tion fire-ship, were driven ashore 2 m.
to the S. of Puducheri, but only 7
men of their crews were lost. More
dreadful was the fate of the Duke of
Aqmtainef the Simderland, and the
Dido transport, which foundered with
1100 Europeans on board. Only 14
men were saved, being picked up next
day as they were fioating on pieces of
the wreck. All the other ships, with
the exception of the Admiral's, were
dismasted. The disasters on shore
were likewise great. The sea over-
flowed the country as far as the
bound-hedge ; all the batteries and re-
doubts which the English army had
raised were utterly ruined ; the tents
and huts of the soldiers were blown to
atoms; all the ammunition was des-
troyed, and the men were compelled
to throw away their muskets and seek
shelter where they could, whilst many
of the camp-followers perished. The
hopes of deliverance which this storm
had raised in the minds of the French
were, however, soon dispelled by the
arrival of fresh men-of-war from Cey-
lon and Madras, so that the blockading
fleet was again raised to 11 sail of the
line. On the 5th of January, 1761,
the French obtained a trifling success
over a detachment of 170 men who
were in the St. Thomas redoubt, at the
mouth of the Aryakuppam r. These
were all killed or taken ; but Lally,
having no means of feeding his
prisoners, sent them to Coote, with a
demand that they should not be allowed
to serve against him during the siege.
On the 16th the town surrendered, as
the garrison was reduced to 1100 men
of the line fit for duty, and these en-
feebled by famine and fatigue, with
bu^ ivro days' provisions left, Alto-
S^Gther 2463 EuropeanB, including
civuians, were made prisoners, and

500 guns, with 100 mortars and howit-
zers, were taken, with a proportionate
supply of stores.

In 1763 Puducheri was restored to the
French. On the 9th of August, 1778,
Sir Hector ^Munro, with an army of
10,500 men, of whom 1500 were Euro-
peans, again laid siege to it. On the
10th Sir E. Vernon, with 4 ships,
fought an indecisive battle in the
roads, with 5 French ships under M.
Trongolloy, who, some days after,
sailed off at night, and left the town
to its fate. Puducheri, after an obsti-
nate defence, was surrendered in the
middle of October by M. Bellecombe,
the governor, and shortly after the
fortifications were destroyed. In 1783
it was re- transferred to the French,
and on the 23rd of August, 1793, re-
taken by the British. The treaty of
Amiens, 1802, restored it to its original
masters, whereupon Bonaparte sent
thither General de Caen, with 7 other
generals, 1400 regulars, a body-guard
of 80 horse, and £100,000 in specie,
with a view, doubtless, to extensive
operations in India. His intentions,
however, whatever they may have
been, were defeated by the re-occupa-
tion of Puducheri in 1803. Puducheri
was then attached to S. Arkat, and
yielded a yearly revenue of 45,000 rs.
In 1817 it was restored to the French,
and has remained ever since under
their rule.

Porto Novo. — From Gudaliir to Porto
Novo is only 17^ m. by rail. The
town stands on the N. bank of the r.
VelAr close to the sea, and is called by
the Indians, Mahmiid Bandar and Fi-
ringipet. The Portuguese settled here
during the latter part of the 16th cent.,
being the first Europeans who landed
on the Coromandel coast, (see " Manual
of S. Arcot," by J. A. Garstin, C.S.).
In 1674 Muhammad Kh4n, governor
of Chenji for Bijdpiir, suggested to the
President of Fort St. George to set up
factories and build forts at Porto Novo,
but no steps were taken for some years.
In 1678 the Dutch abandoned their
factory at Porto Novo and Devapat-
nam, and "went \» Y>i\ikat. An
Indian Iron Co. ^^i\<^ Q\3\»\\ifc^ W.-s.
chaitei in 1^o4l, \iJwQi \Va yiQ\\& \\Rrt^

Sect. IL

Halite 2. — PoHo Novo — Chenji,

167

and at Bepiir. In 1835 Mr. Heath of
the Madras C.S. tried to make wrought
iron with charcoal fires, but failed.
Puddling was then tried, i,e,, subject-
ing the cast iron to an intense heat in
a reverberatory furnace, until it sticks
together in lumps. For this billets of
wood dried and half-charred were
used instead of coal, but the wood
being impregnated with nitre and
salt, acted as a powerful flux on the
bricks. In 1846-7 coals were tried
unsuccessfully. The ore-ground is also
too far off, being at 80 m. distance,
30 of which must be traversed by a
bad road, and the remainder by canals,
navigable during only 4 months in the
year. The works, too, are on ground
only 18 in. above the level of the river,
so that deep castings cannot be
attempted for fear of explosions.

The governorship of Porto Novo
with a sum of money was the bribe
for which, in 1C93, Dr. Blackwell,
garrison-surgeon of Fort St. David,
covenanted to surrender the Fort to
Zii'lfe^dr Khdn, then besieging RAm
Rdj4 in Chenji.

iSut the chief historical recollection
which attaches to Porto Novo is that
vnthin 3 m. of it to the N. close to the
sea-shore, was fought one of the most
important Indian battles of the last
cent. Sir Eyre Coote had arrived at
Porto Novo on the 19th of June, 1781,
after having been repulsed the day
before in an attack on the fortified
Pagoda of Chilambram, which he con-
ducted in person. Ilaidar 'AH was
encouraged by the success of his
troops on that occasion to hazard a
battle, and he took up an advantage-
ous position on the only road by which
the English could advance to Gudaliir,
and fortified it. An account of the
battle which ensued will be found in
Mill, vol. iv. pp. 209—212. It is suffi-
cient here to say that, " for 6 hours,
during which the contest lasted, every
part of the British army was engaged
to the utmost limit of exertion." A
victory was obtained of which Sir J.
Malcolm speaks in the following
a moment was

native troops, we should fix upon the
battle of Porto Novo. Driven to the
sea-shore, attacked by an enemy ex-
ulting in recent success, confident in
his numbers, and strong in the terror
of his name, every circumstance com-
bined that could dishearten the small
body of men on whom the fate of the
war depended, not a heart shrunk from
the trial. Of the European battalions
it is, of course, superfluous to speak,
but all the native battalions appear
from every account of the action to
have been entitled to equal praise on
this memorable occasion, and it is
difficult to say whether they were
most distinguished when suffering
with a patient courage under a heavy
cannonade, when receiving and re-
pulsing the shock of the flower of
Ilaidar's cavalry, or when attacking
in their turn the troops of that mon-
arch, who, baffled in all his efforts, re-
treated from this field of anticipated
conquest with the loss of his most
celebrated commander, and thousands
of his bravest soldiers." (See Record
of Services of the Madras Army, p. 3,
Mem. C.)

Chenji (Gingee). — On the return
journey from Puducheri, if it be de-
sired to see the remarkable and cele-
brated fort of Chenji, the traveller
will stop at the station of Tindevinam,
which is 28i m. from Gudali!ir, and
thence he will have to travel 17 m.
over a bad road to a ruinous mosque
at the foot of the hill on which the
fort is situated. He will sleep at the
mosque and commence the ascent next
morning at 5 A.M. The mosque has
an upper storey, but is altogether in so
ruinous a state that it would be very
desirable to take a few pardahSj or
tent-screens, in order to be properly
sheltered ; and communication must
be made two days previously to the
Assistant Collector at Tindev4nam, in
order that provisions may be got ready.
Even when commencing the ascent at
the earliest hour possible the traveller
will suffer from the sun, as the moun-

tain is over 1000 ft, hi^h., wad t^issft. \^
terms: "If a moment was to be ) no shelter "wVi-etoJet. fe^0QPQ^>Q»5&.^«S^^^^
named when the existence of the 1 thexo«A,y7\i\c^\&m?iJ^^^*k3M»^
British power dcpendod upon its \ aad dia.c\x\^ coxaaa \» ^ ^"^^^^^ "^"^

168

Houte 2. — Madras to Porto Novo.

Sect. 11.

which must be crossed by planks or
ladders, and the whole ascent will
certainly occupy from 1^ to 2 hours.
In order to have a good idea of what
the fortification was in the old day, it
would be necessary to consult that
volume of Orme which contains the
plans of forts, or Book ii. p. 155 of
edition 1763, where the plan of Chenji
will be found. From the top a fine
"view is obtained over the two other
peaks and their fortifications, and
over the neighbouring hills. The
N.W. peak which Orme calls "the
Great Mountain of Gingee," is about
1200 ft. high, and is the highest of the
tiiree hills. A strong wall flanked
with towers and extending 3 m. in-
closes this as well as the other two
hills. On the top of this one is a
small fort built on the solid rock, and
Orme declares that " It is tenable with
10 men against any open force which
can be brought against it." He adds,
" There is very fine water in a cleft of
the rock." At the foot of this hill on
its E. side was a rampart with a wet
ditch, and on the W. a tank called
" the Devil's tank," and a gate called
"the Devil's gate." There were 2
gates to this fortification, after passing
which a second rampart was reached,
with a third gate, and high above this
stands the fort which Orme asserted
to be impregnable. It, like the rest
of the fortifications, is now ruined.
Bouth of " the Great Mountain " is
the second pes^, called " St. Greorge's
Mountain" by Orme. This is not
so completely fortified as the " Great
Mountain." On its N. side were
the barracks and houses of the
French garrison, and to its E. the
P^ta, or native town. On the
N.E. comer of the fortified inclosure
in which were the barracks, was a
gate called the Puducheri Gate, and
N. of it a height with what was called
the Royal Battery on its summit.
K.E, of this battery, at the distance of
800 yds., rose "the English Mountain,"
as a third peak was called, on which
vras a fort 200 yds. long from W. to
M, and 150 yds, broad from N, to S.
^^us third peak was 1200 yds. distant
•««» ilie BngliBh Mountain, and 880

yds. from the Great Mountain. There
is a grant existing in TamU letters, but
in the Sanskrit language, dated 1305
of the Sh41iv^an era, = to 1382
A.D., which says that Tunira, Chora,
Pdndi, and Simhala (Ceylon) were
conquered by Virupaksha, grandson
of Bukka RdjA, and son-in-law of '
Bdmadeva of the Lunar race. This
grant bestows Alampandi, a village
near Chenji, rent-free, on the Brdh-
mans. This grant is signed by Sri
Hari Hara of the Vijayanagar dynasty.
The forts were first built by one of the
Chola kings, who reigned from 700 to
1420 A.D., and rebuilt by Vijya Rdmah
Ndik, Governor of Tanjiir, in 1442.
About 1630 the Ndik of Chenji joined
the Ndiks of Tanjiir and Madura in
revolting from the BdjA of Vijaya-
nagar, and in 1638 Tirumal Naik of
Madura called to his aid the Mubam-
madan king of Bijdpiir, who, however,
turned against him and took Chenji.
Shdhjl, the father of the celebrated
Sivaji, commanded the troops that
captured Chenji, and his son Ekojl,
by a second wife, became Rdjd of
Tanjiir. In 1646 Bijapiir annexed
Chenji and Veliir, and Grolkonda an-
nexed Chengalpet and Madras. In
1659 Tanjiir was annexed by Bijdpiir.
In 1674 Sivaji became king, and in
1677 descended the Ddmalcheri pass,
and took Chenji by treachery. Madras
records say he " peeled the country to
the bone." In 1689 Bdm RdjA es-
caped to Chenji, which, however, in
January 1698 was captured by ^li'l-
fal^dr Eh4n, the Mughul General. In
1711 Sunip Singh, Governor of
Chenji, sent a force against Fort
St. David, in repulsing which Capt.
Coventry, Ensign Somerville, and some
men were killed, and the E. I. C. had
to pay 12,000 pagodas to obtain peace.
Orme, vol. i. p. 138, says that the
army of Nd§ir jang, Ni^dm of the
Dakhan, assembled at Chenji in the
beginning of 1750, and that historian
thus describes the fort as it was in that
year : " A strong wall, flanked with
towers and extending nearly 3 m., en-
closes S mo\mtaaii"a,'wl[:^Q,la.tQrm nearly
an equilatexal tnaii^^ *, >i)aai «s» ^^^^
and cxaggy ) wxd on \5afe \.ov ^^ ^».Ocl «»

Sect. II.

Route 2. — Clienji,

169

built large and strong forts ; besides,
there are many other fortifications
npon its declivities." On the plain
between the 3 mountains is a large
town. The Indians, who esteem no
fortification very strong unless placed
npon high and difficult eminences,
have always regarded Chenji as the
strongest fortress in the Eamdtik. It
was taken in August, 1750, by the
French force of 1800 Europeans, 2500
Sip4hls, and 1000 horse with 12 field-
pieces, under M. d'Auteuil and M.
Bussy. Hence it was that the force
under M. De la Touche marched on
the 4th of December, 1750, which, on
the following day, dispersed one half of
the army of Nd§ir jang, who was him-
self killed by the Niiwdb of Kadapa.
In describing this, Orme (p. 155) says
that the Ni^Am rode up to the Niiwdb
and called him " a dastardly coward
for not daring to defend the Mughul
standard against the most contemp-
tible of enemies. On this the traitor
replied that he knew no enemy but
Nd^ir jang, and ordered the fusileer
who sat with him on his elephant to
fixe at the Ni^&m, which he did, and
missed. The Niiwab then himself
fired and killed the Nizdm." It is
very unlikely that the Nigjim, who had
shown such blind confidence in the
Afghan chiefs, should have called the
NiiwAb " a dastardly coward," and the
account given in the Hadi^ah i 'Alam
(p. 385) is no doubt correct. It is
there stated that NA§ir jang, in the
heat of the French attack, rode up to
the Niiwdb of Kadapa and saluted him,
and on his not returning the salute
said, standing up in the haudah,
" Brother, this is the time to exert
ourselves to repel the enemy." The
Niiwdb made no answer, but he and
the Afgiian, who sat with him, fired
both together and killed the NigAm.
On the 23rd of July, 1752, Major
Kineer with 2300 men, advanced to
Chenji with the intention of capturing
it, but despairing of success retired.
** For " (says Orme) " the country 10
m. round Chenji is enclosed by a cir-
cular chain of mountains f and the
roads leading through them are strong
passes, of which it is ueceBsary that

an army attacking the place should
be in possession, in onler to keep the
communication open." The same his-
torian (vol. L, p. 275) says, " Dupleix's
authority was confined to the districts
between Pondicherry and Chenji, and
these did not yield more than £50,000
a year." The same writer says (vol. ii.,
p. 695), that WishwAs Pant ofEered
in 1760 to assist M. Lally for "a sum
of ready money in hand, and the
cession of the fortress of Chenji, which,
besides the infiuence it would give
Bdlajl RAo in the province of Arkdt,
was the wish of a national point of
honour, since Chenji had until the
beginning of the present century been
the capital of a race of Mard^ha kings,
whose dominion extended from the
Kolenin to the Pdlidr." " On the 5th
of April, 1761, Captain Stephen Smith
received a proposal from Captain Mac-
Gregor, who commanded in the Great
Mountain of Chenji, to surrender if
his garrison were allowed the honours
of war. 300 of the English Sip^ls
had already died in the town and in
the mountain of St. George from the
peculiar inclemency of the air, which
has always been deemed the most un-
healthy in the Kamdtik, insomuch
that the French, who never tmtil lately
kept more than 100 Europeans here, had
lost 1200 in the 10 years during which
it had been in their possession.
Captain Smith accepted the terms, and
in the afternoon the garrisons marched
out of the two mountains. This day
terminated the long hostilities between
the two rival European powers *ln
Coromandel, and left not a single en-
sign of the French nation avowed by
the authority of its government in any
part of India." After what is here
said of the unhealthiness of Chenji,
the traveller need hardly be further
warned to make his stay as short as
possible, and on no account to sleep in
the ruined fort.

170

Houte 3. — Madras to Kdnchiveram,

Sect. II.

ROUTE 3.

MADRAS TO KANCHIVEBAM (CON-
JEVERAM), BY THE MADRAS RAIL-
WAY TO ARKONAM (ARCONUM;
42J M., AND BY THE SOUTH INDIAN
RAILWAY FROM ARKONAM TO

kAnchiveram, 19 M.

It will be convenient hero to give
the whole of the Madras Rly. from
Madras to Bepiir, and reference can be
made to the opposite page in esti-
mating the distances and expenses
incurred in making the several tours
which follow partly along this line
and partly branching off from it.

Madras Railway Refrtihnvtnt Rooms.
Scale of Charges.

Rs. As.

Dinner 2

Children, half-price . . ..10
Breakfast, or tiffin, hot or cold . .10
Ditto, ditto, for children . ..08
Plate of curry and rice . . .08
DittOi bread and cheese . ..08

Ditto, soup 6

Bottle of milk 4

Cup of tea or coffee, and toast . .04
Cup of tea or coffee, only . ..02
Champagne, quart . . . .38

Ditto, pint 2 4

Brandy, per glass . . 6 as. to 4
Soda-water, with bottles . ..06

From Arkonam the traveller will
proceed to Ednchiveram (Conjeveram)
by the S. I. Rly. as follows: price 8 pies,
1st class ; 3 pies, 2nd class ; 2 pies, 3rd
class, per mile : —

Distance
in Miles.

Name of Station.

9
11
19

I Arkonam . . dep.
Puliir . ...
Clieiigal Ra( Ndik's

Cliaultri .
Kdnchiveram . arr.

Time of
Train.

P.M.

6.15
5.55

6.5

6.45

The narrow-gauge line from Arkonam

to KAnchiveram was made by Mr.

Lea Hair, and it appears from his

statement that the sickness along the

line where he was first employed, that

j^, at Salem, was indeed terrible. He

himself bad had the cholavB, twice,

tjrpboid fever and nervous fever twice,

^d intermittent fever for years. He

had been several times given over by
the doctors. Many fine strong young
men came out, who looked as if they
would have lived 60 years, but died.
Most of them drank, and drinking in
India means death. Salem used to be
so fearfully unhealthy, that even to
sleep the night there was most danger-
ous. Those who went to the Travellers
b., generally had fever or cholera. The
embankment from Kdnchiveram to
Chengalpat is made, and the line is to
be constructed. Very few Europeans
go to Kdnchiveram, and when they go
they generally take a special train.
The line curves much, and leads
through a forest of palm trees, with a
good deal of rice cultivation. Two
miles before reaching the station of
KAnchiveram the gopuras of the tem-
ple are passed, the great Gopura beiug
nearest the line. Mr. Lea Hair mea-
sured the Great Gopura and found it
181 ft. high, and he considers it the
highest gopura in South India. On
alighting at the station it will be well
to obtain a bullock-carriage in order
to go to the traveller's b., which is, in
fact, the collector's office, but any
traveller of respectability may obtain
permission to stop there by wanting to
the collector. One drives for J m.
almost in a direct line to the W., and
then turns to the rt. to reach the halt-
ing place. The b. is situated amongst
fine trees, and has 3 upper rooms, very
clean and comfortable, and a broad
gallery or verandah running round
them. From the b. to the great tem-
ple is about 2 m. The temple is dedi-
cated to Ekambara Swdmi, which may
mean the Deity with the single gar-
ment, but is sometimes explained as
" He, whose birth was under a mango
tree." The first interpretation, how-
ever, appears decidedly to be the right
one. Just before reaching the great
temple there is a mosque, which was
formerly a mandapam or Hindii temple,
but was converted into a mosque by
Ddiid KhAn Pan6. The Great Gopura
is on the S. side of the outer enclosure,
and has 10 storeys, and an enormous
I top wit\iout Mvy >Nmdow or means of
I ascent, Tb\s to\> \a ^% I't. "iXVTv.^Di^.
I The topmost 5 s\«it«^^ Vw^ \««a. -sa-

Nunnnf
SUUonL

Tniiiul.

Frt

ttEHlBUI.

r CI

Penmbur .

Tl™niuiii . ■

TrivBlilt

Ksdambatdr

1 '

rbcra in ,lsn ji 3ra Plui train th.t
lMV«> M«ini. .t B.1S8.IB. hat
^topD at Jolnrpet, when tt uiItm

at 7.40 tm..Bndlier<!ii lilt.

■i»i

lit "■"

Snd, Mid ard cliei train whicli
laves ModiM .t I.M r->n- ■"*

Atkonum {,1^

«* tTm

stops Bt Vcliir, BirivtiiE there »t
7.10, but no Eurapesn nimld go
ti otUiBr of thoK trains.

itoi.™.-ThD 7s.m.fraln "t"P»
20 miu, iBTB tor biwilit»t ; t&e

^^LT"

6 p.m. Iraiu 8toi« ai mlu. Cor

80i|v.h-.r - [^

jj-;*: J-^

dinner.

Va' 1 ~

iilff l(l.l!0

MeIpbUI .

ArabOr .

lis

VaniambBdi

Jolfavit {J^

SIO

Is 20

olrir^Wf.— Tbs r n.ln. train itnpn

TripatAr .

Monpiir . .

MallflpiSnmi

a.i5

IBSl

Shlnu^HlllH

2.45

"'.-.■!•"

)

tm/™,— UttMi inlendrf (or Oio

<tatinu-iaBBt«- lit Salem tliould

9iBi

dmultri .

7 IS

smi

SLonkBri Dp^

rirmi.-TbB B p.m. train atops

yirod . J

i.H.

Ifimin.harororeiirljrtBB. 8)m|.-

Iflep.

3fi3i

24 1)

WnUialli

loBBtir at 1 r. tor a singlB per-

aon. lrB.S«. tor mail and wlTt,

andSn Ibralkmllr.

BoioBUilr .

io"o

Hiiliir .

£99)

Mil

p-ithnnur J on
Jnuctlooldap.

Iss

ase

[an

n 1)

Pollanfir Tbe « p.m. train atopn

JtadlkEri .

SBV

SOmln IbtbrealtrQat.

siai

Wnllir

30 D

!H3i

u\'a

»:"

aou
ja.

The,,r,.,^,.,d .....K^^tral^^

sail

P«rle. !

33 D

KulipilAm' . .

\f^\\lu

H i

r'l ,.„'„;!./m,.":'i.;

Timr . .

ia.*3 ia«

Teniir .

Pffl]«iiBaal

87 11

408*

1.30 1 1.30

aao

15 D

—

paired Ibis j-ear (ISTS), and white- 1 peaked top \H\o'\ia«&.ieii. 'Qit«rQ»'
Knsbod; and there is an ornamental I merit ia n«neial.\3 moie <A igC*.ws?^
Jig-ht iron-rniliDg at top, and a gliikr or I and ia itom. !& to ^ 1^- 1a.«>^- "

174

JRoute L — Arhcmam to Yirod.

Sect. II.

and they are still at law about it.*
When the Brdhmans of the Ekambara
temple were asked if they made any
use of the gopuras as sleeping
chambers, inasmuch as they would be
cool from their great height, they
said they dared not sleep there for
fear of being attacked by Rdkshasas,
evil spirits, ghosts of Brdhmans turned
into devils, and they used both the
Sanskrit and the English word, ex-
plaining the former as "high caste
devils." On the way back from the
temple, one may visit the Mahharahy
\ or tomb of Hamid Auliya, who was
the minister of a King of Bijdpilr,
and subsequently canonised. The
building has a small gumbaz, or dome,
and stands 100 yds. back from the
road in a garden. It is quite plain,
and they will not allow visitors to
approach the door without taking off
their shoes.

ROUTE 4.

ABKONAM TO ARKAT ( ARGOT), VELUR
(VELLORE), SALEM AND THE 8HI-
VARAI HILLS, AND YIROD (ERODE),
BY THE MADRAS BAIL WAY {see
preceding Monte), AND TRICHINA-
PALLI {see p. 187).

For Madras to Arltonam, see Route 3.

From Arkonam to Arkdt is an hour's
journey by rail. Leaving at 9.30 A.M.
the traveller reaches Arkdt Station at

* These sects are called Tengalas and Vada-

gcUaSf from Ten, " lower" or *' southern," and

Vada "upper" or "northern," and an account

of them will be found at p. 97 of the Madras

Census of 1871. The chief point in dispute is as

^ whether the aeetarial marks on the forehead

^^^i^ ^^^h A* the VadagalM say, to the

£f%SC^f"^^ ^tween the eyebrows, or; as

^or thla^^h^T' 5^?^ "^^y ^«^ «»e nose.
^^^* ^«^A blood baa been shed.

10*30 A.M.,but he will then have 4 m. to
drive to the N., to lidnlpet, "which is the
town now inhabited by Europeans and
a small civil station. Some years ago
there used to be 1 European and 2 Indian
regiments at RAnipet, but the lines
are now deserted, and are fast going
to decay. The house, which was that
of the General of the Brigade, is now
occupied by the assistant collector.
A little to the S. E. of it is the CJiurch
{St, Mary's), which can hold 100 per-
sons comfortably, but when troops were
at Rdnlpet it was made to hold loO.
There are only 2 tablets, one to a late
chaplain, and one to Captain John
Stedman Cotton, brother of Sir Arthur
Cotton, who died of cholera at Chittiir,
on the 17th Oct., 1843. To the S.,
about J of a m., is the Cemeteiy, which
is painfully neglected. Many of the
tablets have been stolen, and some of
the tombs are defaced. One of the
best kept is that of W. G. Bevan, who
was riding with his daughter, when
he took his foot out of the stirrup
to remove a thorn, and in doing so
spurred his horse, which started off at
full speed across country, and falling
into a gravel pit, killed his rider.
There are also many tombs of officers
of the 13th and 22nd Dragoons and
their wives, and of officers of the
Madras Lt. Cavalry. Two officers of the
4th Lt. Cavalry died here of cholera
in 1837. The oldest tomb is that of
Lieut. John Grant, of the 2nd Reet.
of Lt. Cavalry, who died Dec. 10, 1791.
After visiting the church and the
cemetery at RAuip6t, the traveller
may go on to the town of ArMt.
After 2 m., the sandy bed of the
Pdldr r. is reached, which is here
3,1 63 ft. wide, but very shallow, and
the sand so deep that vehicles cannot
be dragged through without the aid of
men, or the horses may be taken out
and 12 labourers will pull a light cart
through. However, the road is being
re-made, and then there will be no
longer such difficulty, unless it should
be again swept away by the floods iu
the rainy season. On reaching the
I bank, next tYie Wwn, >[)ae, xo^cd tvvrns
I to the \. a\0T\^ ^i)cv& \>ai^ icst ^Q>i\\,
\ 200 yds., YrtieiL «. «emX\. ^i^^cA-a. \%

Sect. II.

Route 4. — Arkdt CUy.

175

reached and huge fragments of the
town-wall, which was a massive struc-
ture of red brick, which extended 6 m.,
and quite encircled the city. It was
thrown down by exploding powder,
but the foundations remain, and huge
fragments of the wall, solid as rocks,
the mortar having hardened with time.
Continuing the same course along the
bank of the PAlAr, one comes, after J
m. to the Dihll Gate of the old city
rampart, which is the only one that
remains so far uninjured that it is
possible to form an idea of what the
fortification originally was. Ascend
12 + 8 steps to what is called Clivers
room, a ruined red brick chamber,
8 ft. high, and about 18 ft. sq. The
floor of this chamber is 24 ft. 7 in.
above the road, and 7 ft. 10 in. above
the top of the inner circle of the gate-
way, which is therefore (the arch)
16 ft. 9 in. high. This gateway faces
N., and has 2 arches. The arch where
the door was is not pointed, and has a
very low curve, while the inner arch
is the usual pointed one. There are 2
vaults below the ground, one on either
side. Continuing the same road, which
curves to the S. E., 6 ruined bastions
are passed, and at the 6th begins a
moat, which has a sunken brick wall
on either side, 11 ft. high, including
the 3 ft. of water which is found there
in the dry season. The moat extends
to the S., j of a m. The 7th bastion
is a double one, and a road runs a little
to the N. of it. Much of the moat is
now used for growing rice. Having
seen the character of the fortification
and the moat and 7th bastion, it will
be best to return to the Dihli Gate,
and take a road which leads S. from
it into the heart of the old city. After
\ m. the Kachhari of the Arkdt T'alukah
or district is reached, a pretty building
erected in 1874. After passing this
building turn to the E., and cross a
very broad moat, which surrounded
the citadel, and is now dry, with trees
growing in it. Here are 2 small tanks,
which once had fountains in the centre.
The water was raised into them by
wheels turned bj eJephants. In the
inner tank, or wellf there is a deep
JioJe with water still in it, which the

people say comes from a spring. There
is a mosque here, a little to the W. of
the inner tank, which once had an in-
scription, for over the arch there is a
place for a tablet, but the tablet itself
has been removed. The water for the
tanks was brought from a large tank
near the Niiwdla's palace, and if the
conduit were cleaned out, the tanks
would be once more filled. Turning
now to the N.W., one comes, after
100 yds. or so, to the Ma^barah, or
tomb of Sa'adatu'lldh Khdn. At the
N.E. cover of the enclosure is an up-
right stone, to the memory of KA?1
Shekh Muhammad Tilismdni, who
died 1201 A.H.= 1786 A.D. In the
same enclosure with the tomb of the
Niiwdb Sa'adatu'lldh Khdn, which is
in the S. E. comer, is the JdmH Maitjid,
The tomb has a stone inserted over the
door with an inscription, which says
that the NiiwAb died 1146 A.H. = 1733
A.D. This Ehdn for 25 years main-
tained a contest with the Mardthas
under EAjA Desingh, and not imsuc-
cessfuUy. He began to rule about
1708 A.D.

W. of the Jdm'i Masjid is the ruined
palace of the Niiwdbs of the Kamdtik,
on a mount overlooking the large lake
called the NiiwAb's Tank. The walls
of the Darbdr room are still standing,
and the dimensions of the room are
78 ft. from N. to S., and 86 ft. from
E. to W. Opposite the palace, at
some distance, is a mosque, popularly
called the Kdli Masjid, or Black
Mosque, and a few yards to the S.E.
of the palace is the tomb of a Mul^am-
madan ascetic, ShAh Khizr Laiigot-
band, with a rather handsome dome.
In the enclosure on the rt. is a small
headstone, inscribed Muhammad Ldl
Beg Badakhshl, 22nd Mu^arram, 1109
A.H. = 9th August, 1697. Near it is,
another headstone, inscribed Mul^am-
mad Ghaus Saiyid, 1110 A-H.=1698.
The tomb of ShAh K^izr is probably
older than these, and would therefore
date back more than 2 centuries.
There are a number of Fa^rs here,
the oldest of whom is 86 years of aj^e^
, and IB "noYi ^^1%"^ ^^^%«3i^\i&^«siSj^
1 has bTig)afc e^^^. Tixtroi^^^^ ^^«^

176

Route 4. — Arhonam to Yirod,

Sect. II.

the mosque of Fa|:ir Muhammad, and
a few yards to the W. of it is a stone
half sunk in the ground, with an in-
scription, which says that Murta.zd
S41>ib bought a house from Kamiu
•Mu^ammad,andwas buried there, with
the date 1168 A.H. = 1754 A.D. About
100 yds. to the W. of this is a tomb,
apparently unfinished, in which the
body of the Nizdm N4§ir jang, mur-
dered by the Niiwdb of Kadapa, on
Dec. 5, 1750, was laid, but was shortly
afterwards removed to Haidardb^. It
is of fine granite, and 12 ft. 3 in. from
N. to S., 12 ft. 4 in. from E. to W., and
6 ft. 3 in. high. To the N., just across
the road, is the tomb of Tlpii Auliya,
or Saint Tlpii, of brick, whitewashed.
In the W. wall is a stone with an
inscription, which says that Sa'a-
datu'Udh Eh&n erected this tomb for
Tlpii, who was a man of God. The
chronogram of his death is found
in the words, Kuth i zamin^ Pole of
the Earth «1 146 A.H. = 1733 A.D. The
NiiwAb Sa'adatu'UAh Khdn here men-
tioned is the NiiwAb whose tomb has
been mentioned above. Whether Tipii
6ult4n got his name from this Saint,
or, as Wilks says, from a word signify-
ing " tiger," is doubtful.

According to one of the Mackenzie
MSS. summarized in the Madras Lite-
rary Journal of January 1838, Arkdt
has its name from ArukAdu — "six
forests," where six Rishis, or holy men,
dwelt. Adondai, who conquered Ton-
damandalam in 1100 A.D., drove out
the aborigines from these forests, and
built various temples there. These
went to ruin, and the place again
became desolate, till Nala Bomma-
ndyadu and Timma-ndyadu came from
Pennakonda, and built a fort there.
Zu'lfa^dr Khdn, Aurangzib's general,
took Chenji in 1698 A.D., and made
Ddiid Khdn Governor of ArkAt, under
which district Chenji was included.
This officer colonized the country with
Muliammadans. Until 1712 the Mu-
Ibiammadan governors resided at Chenji,
when Sa'adatu'Mh Khdn, who first
^ook the title ofNiiwdh at the BLamA-
^'Ir, made Arkdt his capital. His
J^p^b has been mentioned above as
^J^sr In the same enclosure with the

principal mosque, Arkdt, however,
is chiefly famous for the glorious cap-
ture and defence of it by Capt. Clive,
who here laid the foundation of his
great celebrity. When the French
and Chandd Sdhib besieged Trichina-
palli in 1751, Clive led an expedition
against Arkdt in order to divert a
part of the enemy from the siege.
Clive had with him only 200 English,
with 8 officers, 6 of whom had never
before been in action ; he had also 300
Sipdhis, and 3 field-pieces. With this
small force he left Madras on the 26th
of August, and arrived at Kdnchiveram
on the 29th. Here he learned that the
garrison of Arkdt amounted to 1100
men. On the 31st he arrived within
10 m. of Arkdt, and marched on through
a tremendous storm of thunder, light-
ning, and rain. The enemies' spies
reported the sang froid with which
the English advanced under such
circumstances, and this made such
an impression on the garrison that
they abandoned the fort. On the
4th of September Clive marched out
against the garrison, who had taken
up a position at Timeri, a fort
6 m. S.W. of Arkdt. The enemy re-
treated to the hills, and the English
returned to the fort, but marched out
again a second time on the 6th, and
drove the enemy from a tank near
Timeri, in which they had ensconced
themselves. After 10 days, the enemy,
who by reinforcements had grown to
3,000 men, encamped within 3 m. of
Arkdt, where they were attacked at
2 A.M. on the 14th of September by Clive
and utterly routed. Two eighteen -
pounders from Madras now reached
Clive, who sent out all the men he
had, except 30 Europeans and 60
Sipdhis, to bring them in. On this
the enemy attacked Arkdt, but wen-,
signally repulsed. Chandd Sdhiburw
sent 4,000 men from Trichindpalli
under his son Rdjd Sdhib, who entered
the town of Arkdt on the 23rd of Sept.
On the 24th, Clive sallied from the
citadel, and fought a desperate battle
with Rdjd §dhib's force. Lieut.
TTen.mt\i \ieie sa^ed Clive by pulling
\\\rcy on one. svdfc ^\iaTV «*. ^v^ticA. ^^y&
about to B\ioot \^ni ttom ;>. ^tAq^»

Sect. II.

Houte 4. — Arkdt.

177

The Sipahi then killed Lieut. Tren-
with ; and 15 English soldiers were
here killed, and Lieut. Read of the
Artillery, and 16 of his men were
disabled. The fiercest part of the
struggle took place close to the Nii-
wdb's palace. On the 25th of Sept.
Murtaza 'All brought 2,000 men from
Veliir'to join Rdjd Sdhib. Olive's
situation now appeared desperate : " the
fort was more than a mile in circum-
ference'* (Orme, Book IIL, p. 198);
" the walls were in many places ruin-
ous ; the rampart too narrow to admit
the firing of artillery ; the parapet low
and slightly built ; several of the towers
were decayed, and none of them capa-
ble of receiving more than one piece
of cannon ; the ditch was in most
places fordable, in others dry, and in
some choked up : there was between
the foot of the walls and the ditch a
space about 10 ft. broad, intended for
a faussebray, but this had no parapet
at the scarp of the ditch. The fort
had 2 gates, one to the N.W., the other
to the E., both of which were large
piles of masonry projecting 40 ft. be-
yond the walls, and the passage from
these gates was, instead of a draw-
bridge, a large causeway crossing the
ditch. The garrison had from their
arrival employed themselves indefa-
tigably to remove and repair as many
of these inconveniences and defects
as the smallness of their numbers could
attend to. They had endeavoured to
burn down several of the nearest houses,
but without success ; for these having
no wood-work in their construction,
excepting the beams which supported
the ceiling, resisted the blaze. Of
these houses, the enemy's infantry took
possession, and began to fire upon the
ramparts, and' wounded several of the
garrison before night, when they re-
tired. At midnight Ensign Glass was
sent with 10 men, and some barrels of
gunpowder, to blow up two of the
houses which most annoyed the fort.
This -party were let down by ropes
over the walls, and, entering the houses
without being discovered, made the
explosion, but with so little skill
that it did not produce the intended
Qffect ; at their return the rope by

which Ensign Glass was getting
into the fort broke, and he was
by the fall rendered incapable of
further duty ; so that, at the beginning
of the siege, the garrison was deprived
of the services of 4 of the 8 officers whd
set out on the expedition; for 1 was
killed, 2 womided, and another returned
to Madras ; and the troops fit for duty
were diminished to 120 Europeans,
and 200 Sipahis : these were besieged
by 150 Europeans, 2,000 Sipdhis, 3,000
cavalry and 500 peons."

Macaulay says, " During 50 days the
siege went on. During this period the
young captain maintained the defence
with a finnness, vigilance, and ability,
which would have done honour to the
oldest marshal in Europe,

" The breach, however, increased day
by day. The garrison began to feel
the pressure of hunger. Under such
circumstances any troops, so scantily
provided with officers, might have been
expected to show signs of insubordina-
tion ; and the danger was peculiarly
great in a force composed of men
differing widely from each other in
extraction, colour, language, manners,
and religion. But the devotion of the
little band to its chief surpassed any-
thing that is related of the Tenth
Legion of Oassar, or the Old Guard
of Napoleon.

" The Sipihls came to Olive, not to
complain of their scanty fare, but to
propose that all the grain should be
given to the Europeans, who required
more nourishment than the natives of
Asia. The thin gruel, they said, which
was strained away from the rice, would
suffice for themselves. History con-
tains no more touching instance of
military fidelity, or of the iufliience of
a commanding mind."

It was now that the gallantry of
Olive's defence so impressed the Ma-
rdtha leader Murdri Rdo, who was at
the head of 6000 men, that he declared
that he had till then never believed
that Englishmen would fight, but see-
ing their spirit he was determined to
help them, and he put his troo\)8 in
movion. T\i\a «\«rcafc^ ^^.fes^^ ^\jics5s>^
and. \ie d'&^eromve!^ \i(i ^Xwrox k:^«s»

178

JRotite i.'^Arkonam to Yirod.

Sect. II.

the great day of the Muharram, and
Clive, who was exhausted with fatigue,
and had thrown himself on his bed,
was roused by the shouts of the enemy
rushing to the attack, and was instantly
at his post. The struggle lasted about
an hour; 400 of the assailants were
killed, while the garrison lost 4 Euro-
peans killed, and 2 Sipdihls wounded.
At 2 A.M. next morning the enemy
abandoned their camp, into which
the garrison marched and brought
off 4 guns, 4 mortars, and a large
quantity of ammunition. Thus ended
on the 16th Nov. this famous siege,
and Clive being reinforced by Captain
Kilpatrick marched out on the 19th,
and took the fort of Timeri, and a few
days after defeated a force of 300
French, 2000 horse, and 2500 Sipdhls
with 4 guns, and took Ami with RdjA
Sdhib's treasure chest, and much
baggage.

In 1758 M. Lally got possession
of the fort of ArkAt by bribing the
Indian governor ; but in 1760 it was
recaptured from the French by Colonel
Coote. In 1780 Gaidar 'Ali, after his
victory at KAnchiveram over Colonel
Baillie, made himself master of Arkdt,
and strengthened the fortifications, but
Tlpii abandoned it in 1783, and ordered
the wall on 2 sides to be thrown down ;
subsequently (1803) it passed into the
hands of the British along with the
other possessions of the Niiwdbs of the
Kam^tik. The pop. of ArkAt town is
now only 10,988 ; N. Arkdt CoUecto-
rate contains 2,015,278 persons in
7,139 sq. m., and is divided into 9
t'aluJ^as or districts, and 13 Zaminddri
estates, of which latter KArvetinagar
with 289,189 persons, and Kdlastrl
with 135,104, are the largest. The Mu-
];^ammadans are 86,741, the Christians
7,436, and the Jains about the same.
Veliir and WAldjAh are the municipal
towns.

From ArkAt or Rdnlp^t, the civil

station of ArkAt, it is a drive of 24 m.

to ChittUr, the head-quarters of the

Judicial and Revenue Authorities for

tJie CoUectorate of N, Ark&t The

^nrn and fort of Chittiir stand on the

>:? f % ?^ ^^^ ^' ^^^^ ^'° ft valley said
^o be 1100 ft. above the sea, sfiut in

on all sides but the E. by hills com-
posed of coarse granite, gneiss, and
grauwacke, and veined occasionally
with iron ore. The native town is ill-
drained, and the exhalations make it
very unhealthy. Elevated a little
above it is the lower fort, containing
the old palace of the f onner PAlegAdas
(Polygars) or chiefs of the place, and
a reservoir supplied from a tank above
with a perpetual stream of fine water.
From this is the ascent of the Durg
or upper fort, under 6 successive gate-
ways, at different heights, and travers-
ing a labyrinth of fortifications, all of
solid masonry, and winding irregularly
up to the sununit. The ascent is partly
by steps, and partly by almost super-
ficial notches, cut in the steep and
smooth surface of the rock, and to be
scaled only with great difficulty. The
fort contains 2 beautiful tanks, various
temples, and a deep magazine, well
sunk in the rock. There is not much
historical interest about Chittiir : the
English suffered a reverse here, when
the fort was taken from them on the
11th of November, 1781, by Haidar
'All, and the garrison consisting of 1
battalion was destroyed. The gaols,
which can contain 800 prisoners, and
are well managed, may be inspected by
those to whom such matters are of
interest. The pop. of Chittiir is 5,572.
About 3^ m. to the E.N.E. of Chittiir
are the ancient sepulchres of PAndu-
varam D6wal, which are well and
minutely described by Capt. Newbold
in his paper. Art. IV., Vol. XIII. of the
Roy. As. Soc. Journal. These tombs
cover an area of more than a square
mile. The majority of them have been
thrown down, chiefiy by the Wadras,
the Indian stonemasons. Some few,
however, are still standing, and present
a striking similarity to the cromlechs
of Wales, such, for instance, as those
at Plas Newydd, in Anglesea, and to
the ancient tombs in Circassia. There
is, first, a Druidical circle of upright
stones, within this is the tomb, like a
huge box, composed of 4 slabs, and of
these, that which forms the roof pro-
iects aboxxt \% m. \i^^QTLd the sides.
The Toot-8\a\i ol ow^ \/5ra:c>\s.\^lV.\s^
1 12 it., and a^eis^^a V\ *m» \>d:\0«..

Sect. 11.

Houte 4. — ChittUr — A'rni.

179

Through one of the side slabs is cut a
hole about 18 in. in diameter. The
terra cotta sarcophagi containing the
bodies are placed on the floor-slab,
and are covered to the depth of 3 or 4
ft. with earth. They are filled with
bones and hard earth ; and elegantly-
shaped earthen vases are found near
them. Iron spear-heads and swords
are sometimes met with. Similar tombs
are found at the Nilgiris and other
places, but nowhere in such numbers
as at this spot. All account of their
origin is lost in the dimness of anti-
quity.

26 m. W. by N. of Chittiir, is the
pleasant station of Palmaner, the head-
quarters of a district which has 60,211
souls. It is 1200 ft. above Chittiir, and
2312 ft. above sea level. The tempera-
ture is 8 degrees less than thatof Chittiir,
and the nights are pleasantly cool.

Koldr. — 53 m. W. of Psdmaner is
Kolar, in N. latitude 13** 8', E. long.
78" 10'. It is a large town, once
strong as a native fort. According
to Mr. Lewis Rice, " Gazetteer of
Maisiir," vol. i. p. 201, it fell into the
hands of the Konganl dynasty before
their fall in 894 A.D. It is said (ibid,
p. 130) that KArtaviryArjun was slain at
Kolar, and the temple of KoUharam-
ma was erected in honour of Renuka,
the wife of Jamadagni. In this place,
¥Bi\ Muhammad, the father of IJaidar
'All, is buried, and here is also the
mausoleum where Haidar himself lay,
till his son removed his bones to the
L41-ba^, near Shrlrangpatnam. Lord
Valentia and others incorrectly call
Koldr the birthplace of IJaidar. He
and his brother ShdhbAz were both
bom at Budikota, "Ashesfort." For
an account of most remarkable mounds
of scorious ashes, supposed to be the
remains of immense sacrificial holo-
causts at a town 17 m. to the S. of
Koldr, see Journal of Roy. As. Soc.
vol. iii. p. 129. From Koldr to Beu-
galiir is only 42 m., so that if it be
desired to visit that place, it will be
better to do so from Koldr than to
return to Arkdt and undertake the long
railway journey thence.

Ami, 118 m. S. of Arkdt. The Jdglr-
ddr of this place is rich and hospitable,
and himself fond of sport, and he often
entertains English gentlemen. Bears,
tigers, and panthers may be got in the
neighbourhood. Ami was in the days
of Gaidar a strong place, but its
defences are now dilapielated. Clive
gained a victory here in November,
1751, over Rdjd i;j>dl>ib, an account of
which will be found in Orme, Book III.
p. 197, ed. 1861. In June, 1783, Sir
Eyre Coote made an unsuccessful at-
tempt to invest Ami, where Gaidar
had deposited his treasure. Attacked
by the Maisiireans, the English general
retired in the direction of Madras, and
in his retreat lost a regiment of Eu-
ropean cavalry, which he csdled his
grand guard, and which, being drawn .
into an ambuscade, was entirely cut
to pieces or made prisoners. There is
now a cantonment for Eoropean troops
within the fort, which is only occasion-
ally occupied, and which serves as a
temporary dep6t for corps proceeding
up country, or previous to embarka-
tion from the Presidency. The officers'
quarters are in two bomb-proof ranges
of buildings, and about 300 yds. in
rear of them are the barracks, which
can accommodate one regiment, but
which are now garrisoned by a detach-
ment of invalid Sipdhls. The barracks
are also bomb-proof, and are spacious
and commodious, forming a square, of
which one side is a wall with a gate-
way. The fort is elevated 400 ft. above
the sea.

The distance from Arkdt to Veliir
being only 16^ m., is easily accom-
plished by rail in 46 minutes. Veliir
lies due W. of Arkdt and between 3
and 4 m. S. of the rly., and 3,600 ft S.
of the Pdldr r., which is spanned here
by a brick bridge with 42 arches,
which is 2067 ft in length. The fort
and town of Veliir are nearly 4 m.
distant from the stat of that name,
and it will be necessary to write
beforehand to some friend at Veliii-,
to the station master, to secure «.

vehicle in otdiet lo \.T«^^"t«fc >Oc«it 5!c>&-
^ ^ ^ tance to tW totV.. TV^^ \<i«J^N& «i^^»^-

^^m^.— Another place which may I lent. TbLetoTV.otN^^T\&«>KrtoTsaSL^^
be visited for shooting purposes is \ by a dee^ dilOa., Vxi. ^\):\0q. ^«s» ^=^

180

Eoute 4. — Arkonam to Yirod,

Sect. II.

several feet of water and a good deal
of mud, but the alligators which existed
there in the old time have all disap-
peared. The N. side of the moat is
1,700 ft. long, and the N. wall of the
fort 1,300, so that the ditch is 200 ft.
broad. The fort itself is a parallelo-
gram, of which the E. and W, sides
are the longest and the S. side is not
straight, but its W. half forms an angle
of about 70** with the W. wall. There
are 4 bastions in the N. wall, 2 in the
W., 5 in the E., and 6 in the S. The
entrance is in the centre of the E. side,
and turning to the 1., after having
passed the wall about 50 yds., one
comes to the Assistant Collector's
house. On the N. side of the entrance
is the Mun^if 's court, and a little to the
N. of it are the library arid reading-
room, and ag^n a little to the N. of
that is the Kacquet court. W. of these
and close to them is the office of the
Station Staff Officer, and a little to the
W. of these is the Great Pagoda, an
account of which will follow presently.
W. of the pagoda are the civil dis-
pensary, telegraph office, pension pay
office, and Assistant Engineer's office,
and S. of these are the Garrison
Church and a number of buildings,
called MahAl, for state prisoners. S. of
these and close to the wall of the Fort
is the magazine, and to the E. of it
are a tank, the garrison female scliool,
the flagstaff, the sub- jail, and t)ie p. o.
The first thing to be noticed is a well
about 30 yds. to the N. by W. of the
Assistant Collector's house. Into this
well the bodies of the Europeans killed
in the mutiny of 1806 were thrown.
Up to 1874 there were cannon placed
round this well, but they have now
been removed. A few yards S.W. of
the well is a dial with this inscription —

" H. Walpole, Brigadier, fecit 1848,
Veliir, lat. 12" 55'."

The next thing to be seen is the
Pagoda, which is one of the most re-
markable in India. It is sacred to
Jalagandar Tshwara, "the god that
dwells in water,*^' i.e., Shiva. There
are two dwdrpdJs^at the entrance of the
Qopura, of blue granite, which when.
^track emit a singularly metallic
sound. The Sgurea are seated, and

are 7 ft. 10 in. high, on pedestals
measuring 2 ft. 4 in. The door is very
handsome, of wood, studded with
bosses of iron like lotus flowers. The
entrance is under the Gopura, and its
sides ai'e lined with pilasters orna-
mented with circular medallions con-
taining groups of figures. This Go-
pura has 7 storeys, and is 100 ft.
high. It is quite easy to ascend to the
very top. After passing through the
Gopura you have on your 1. at the
distance of a few yards a stone pavilion
called the Kalydn Mandapam, exqui-
sitely carved. On either side of the
steps, 5 in number, by which you
ascend into the Mandapam, are 3 i^illars
which are monoliths carved to repre-
sent various figures one above another
in a way which shows prodigious
labour and great skill. One represents
a mounted horse rearing up, with a
group of men beneath his hoofs, and
below them a leopard. On the rt.
of this is the Simh, or Lion of the S.,
rearing up, with a round stone in his
mouth, which is loose, but so large that
it cannot be taken out. This stone
has been carved out of the solid block
with Chinese dexterity. Rt. of this is
a monster with an elephant's proboscis.
To the 1. is a cavalier whose horse is
rearing, and below is a group of figures
issuing from an alligator's mouth.
Another pillar represents the Lion of the
South with what appears to be the pro-
boscis of an elephant. In the portico
or ante-chamber is a wonderfully
carved ceiling, with a centre-piece
representing a fniit, round which
parrots are clustered in a circle, hang-
ing by their claws with their heads
down towards the fruit. In this
chamber there are 3 richly carved
pillars to the rt., and to the 1. 3
pilasters, all entirely different from
each other. Beyond this is a chamber
to the S. in which is a Nandi dis-
lodged from his sit'us, and a Vimanah
or support for the idol, resting on a
huge tortoise. Passing from the quad-
rangle or parallelogrammic space in
which this pavilion is, you go through
and "ondex a second Gopura of 4
storeys, 'w\"i\cVi\a»!3L'a \<i «sv ^T^s^a-s^rt^,
where on U\e xl. \!& «k. ^'^ ^t "Cwi

Sect. II.

Emite 4, — VeMr,

181

finest water . in the neighbourhood,
which is locked up after the European
residents have been supplied. In the
Gopura itself is a slab with 17 lines
in the old Granthl Tamil, which has
not yet been deciphered. Opposite the
Gopura is a long low building of
granite, the blocks being adjusted
with the greatest care. In this, no
doubt, formerly was the adytum, but
it is now so dark that nothing can be
seen without torches, and it has been
so long disused that there are prob-
ably many serpents in it. The Indians
object to enter. Mr. Fergusson says
('• History of Architecture," p. 370 ♦)
that " the great cornice here with its
double flexures and its little trellis
work of supports is not only very
elegant in form, but one of those
marvels of patient industry such as
are to be found hardly anywhere
else." He says also, " the traditions of
the place assign the erection of the
Veliir porch to the year 1350, and
though this is perhaps being too pre-
cise, it is not far from the truth."t
The next thing to be visited is St.
John's, the garrison church, in the
outer wall of which over the entrance
is inscribed A.D. 1846. It is quite
plain and can seat 250 persons. Around
this church are the Mahdls, which
have been the residence of the family
and descendants of Tlpii since 1802.
They are houses within very high en-
closures, and must be frightfully hot
as there is no ventilation. After seeing
the Fort, the next thing will be to
drive round the Lines, which are to
the S. of the Fort. There is a fine
tank here, in deepening which the
relief funds in the last famine were
expended to the extent of G0,000 rs.

■" I may be permitted here to notice a strange
error in the index of Mr. Fergusson's hook ; at
p. 370 he says, "Although the temples at
Velur, and PeHir, near Koimbatiir ; " and in
the index it says, ** Veliir near Koimbatiir, "hut
Velur is 200 m. E. of Koimbatiir, and the** near
Koimbatiir," applies only to Penir, which the
compiler of the index has not observed.

t I tliink the word ** porch " hardly suitable

to this building. It is a separate temple within

the great wall of the enclosure, but separated

from the inner temple by the second Oopura

and the wall attached to it The Indians call

Jt the Kalyan Mandapam.

It is now 9 ft deep. A Sipihl is
placed on guard to prevent people
from washing their dirty clothes in it,
and otherwise polluting the water.
Beyond it, at 1 m. distance, is the New
Cemetery, surrounded by a high wall,
on the right hand of the rd. as you go
towards it. There is a well in the en-
closure, with some fine trees. Here is
a monument to "Alfred Octavius
Lewis." This gentleman was killed
in the railway accident which hap-
pened at Ambilir on Christmas Day,
1872, when two trains collided. The
Old Cemetery is a little to the S.E. of
the Fort. In the centre of the enclo-
sure is a magnificent pipal tree, and
in the right-hand comer of the ceme-
tery is a railed-in enclosure with a low
sarcophagus on a pedestal, inscribed,
" Sacred to the memory of Lieutenants
Popham and Ely, 5 sergeants, 4 cor-
porals, 1 drummer, and 70 privates, of
His Majesty's 69th Regt., who fell
while bravely resisting the mutineers
at Veliir on the 10th of July, 1866.
This monument was erected by the
regiment in 1863 — 64, to mark the spot
where their comrades rest.'* Besides
the 69th Regt. there were 6 companies
of the 1st battalion of the 1st Regt.
N. I., and the 2nd battalion of the
23rd N. I. in the Fort, at the time of
the Mutiny, and the Sip^is mustered
1,500 to the 370 English soldiers. The
native officers led the SipAhis to the
attack, and maintained a murderous
discharge of musketry on the Euro-
pean barracks. Detachments were
also told ofiE to shoot the officers as
they came out of their houses. Thus
Col. Fancourt of the 69th, who com-
manded the whole garrison, was killed,
as was Lieut.-Col. M*Keera, conmiand-
ing the 23rd N. I. 13 officers were
killed, and several English conductors
of ordnance at their houses. In the
barracks 82 privates were killed, and
91 wounded. A few officers, who had
successfully defended themselves in a
house, forced their way to the barracks,
and put themselves at the head of the
surviviivg soVdiet^. Tc^a 10^ss^««^ 'cS.
the 8ta\e pT\aoivet^\voSa}i^^'^^"^^^^^^
. which BhoY^e^ a svm.m^Ctv& ^^^^^^^
tiger stTipes on «u ^"^^^ ^^^^*

182

Roide 4. — Arkonam to Yirod,

Sect. 11.

men of the 69th, however, fought their |
way to the flag-staff and pulled down
the flag, and then made their way to
the 3rd gateway, which they opened
to Col. Gillespie, when he came up
from Arkdt with a squadron of the 19th
Dragoons and a troop of the 7th N. C.
He arrived at 8 A.M., and at 10 A.M. some
guns came up, and the 4th gateway
was blown open, when from 300 to 400
of the mutineers were killed and many
taken prisoners, of whom 3 native
officers, and 14 non-commissioned
officers and privates, were executed,
and the numbers of the regiments
were erased from the Army Lists (see
Mill, vol. vii. pp. 121, 122). After this
it will be weU to visit the Hazrat
Makdm, the tomb of a Muhammadan
saint in a street of the same name
about 260 yds. W. of the Fort. The
name of the saint was Saiyid Shah
Mul^ylu'd din K4diri. They expect
you to take off your shoes if you enter
the verandah of the ma^barah, or
tomb, round which are inscribed 16
couplets. To the epitaph on Muhyiu'd
din Zuwdkl is assigned the date
1193 A.H. = 1779 A.D., and to that of
Shdh Biial Hasan the date 1182=1768
A.I>. It is also said that Biial Hasan
b. the place in 1245 a.h.=1829 a.d.
The tombs of Tipii's family are f in. to
the W. of the Fort in a well kept en-
closure. On the rt. of the entrance
is the tomb of Pddshdh Bigam, the wife
of Tlpii, with the date 1250 A'.H. = 1834
A.D. ; she was the sister of Gbuldm Imdm
liusain Khdn, and daughter of Imdm
SAhib Bakhshl. 100 rs. a year were
assigned to keep up this tomb, but
half of this sum has lately been given
to another tomb. The second tomb
on the right is that of Aftdb Khdn,
who was 2nd instructor to the
ladies, and died 50 years ago. Next
comes a handsome tank, which has a
stone embankment and stone steps
descending 25 ft. down to the watcr's-
edge. Next are two plain tombs of
female attendants, and then a hand-
some ^rranite pavilion with a massive
jvof supported by 4 pillaxs ; inside is
« IfJacJc marble tomb to Mirz& Ri?A,
who married one of Tipt'a daughters.
^^ the end of these is the largest

building of all, a domed mausoleum
20 ft. sq. It is to the memory of the
widow of Haidar 'All, who was called
Bakhshl Bigam, and has the date
1219 A.H. = 1806 A.D. L. of this is a
mosque without any inscription, and
beyond it scores of plain gravestones.
Then comes the tomb of a daughter of
Tipii, with an inscription on the W.
face. Her name was Fatimah Bigam,
and the date of her death is 1250 A.H.
= 1834 A.D. Next is the tomb of the
3rd instructor of the ladies, Ambar
Bhdl, who died 40 years ago. Next is
a handsome stone pavilion like a Man-
dapam, which is the tomb of a wife of
Tipii, the daughter of a Rdja, but
converted to Islam. Nearest the en-
trance on the 1. side is the tomb of the
principal instructor, Muhammad M'u-
tabar KhAn, an African, who is said to
have been a man of gigantic strength
and to have usually eaten 5 lbs. of
meat at a meal.

In the 3rd volume of Orme, at p. 603,
will be found a picture of 3 hill-
forts to the S. of Veliir, and called by
him Sazarow, Guzarow, and Mortaz
Agur. It must be confessed that they
do not give a very exact idea of the
shape of the mountains which they
are intended to represent, and still
less of their respective distances from
Veliir. Mortaz Agur, which ought to
be written Murtazagarh, or, * the Fort
of MurtazA' (a name of 'AH), is prob-
ably the hill which is now called
KailAsgarh ('fort of Kailds/ Shiva's
paradise). The summit of this hill is
2743 ft. above sea level, Veliir itself
being 791 ft. It is about 4 m. to the
S.E. of Veliir, and there is a ruined for-
tification upon it, and a bangld which is
used as a sanatorium by the Europeans
residing in Veliir, the difference of
temperature being 10". W. of this hill
is another closer to Veliir, called locally
Sullivan's Hill. It consists of a long
ridge and 3 summits, which are forti-
fied. It is 1550 ft. high. Still closer
to Veliir, in fact overlooking it, is
what is called Sayer's Hill, but which
the Hindiis call Singal Durg ; it is 900
ft. big\i abovft t\vft \e^e\ ol Veliir. The
sides are coveted '^\t\i \»avMet^ «x\Sl
1 loose Btoues, au^ \\i<i a^<i^^\» ^-^ ^'^^l

Sect. II.

BmUe 4. — VeMr — Salem.

183

fatiguing, but may be accomplished
in 45 minutes. There is a masonry
wall round the top 25 ft. high, with
bastions and two gateways. After
passing the gateway, there is a further
slight ascent to some ruined buildings
and a few tall trees shading a spot
which is a good place for breakfasting
at. Walking round to the S. W., one
comes to a tank 50 or 60 ft. below the
ridge on which is the wall. The tank
is deep and there is always good water
in it. Passing this tank one comes to
a bastion, whence there is a good view
over the neighbouring hill, which also
has been fortified. Kaildsgarh is also
well seen from this spot, and the white
b, at the top is distinctly visible.
Just below the hill is the Fort, and to
the S. two fine tanks, while 2^ m. to
the N. are the police Unes and the
jail.

Velur in N. Arkdt was built by
Narsingh, Rdjd of Vijayanagar (Bee-
januggur) about the year 1500 A,D.,
for an occasional residence, and has
been considered one of the strongest
places in India, though commanded
by the neighbouring hills. In 1677,
Sivaji took Veliir from the king of
Bijdpiir, in whose possession it had
been 31 years. The siege was con-
ducted by a Brdhman named Nirhari
Bal41. He erected his principal bat-
teries on two adjacent hills, which he
named Saiijra and Gojura (Grant
Duif, vol. i. p. 280). These are the
Sazarow and Guzarow of Orme. After
a siege of some duration, the detail of
which is imperfectly given in the
Mardtha MSS., the fort surrendered
about the end of September. Abil
Husain Edzi asserts that 'Abdulldh
Khdn, the governor, gave up the fort
ior a bribe of 50,000 pagodas. In
1704, Manajl Mor6 surrendered Veliir
to DdM Khdn, and a firmdn from
Aurangzlb to Mor6 exists granting
him a mansab for this service. Veliir
was formerly the head -quarters of a
brigade, but it is now garrisoned by a
angle regiment of N. I. The pop. of
Veliir town is 38,022, of the whole
district 179,156.

From Madras to Salem is 206} m.,
fiMd consequently ipom Veliir to Salem

is 126J 3Q., which is done by rail in
7 hrs. and 7 min. Salenij according to
Graul=" rocks," Shelham or Chelam,
in N. lat. 11° 39', E. long. 78" 12', is the
capital of the coUectorate of the same
name, which, with an area of 7483 sq.
m., has a pop. of 1,966,995. The pop.
of Salem itself is 50,012. The climate
is not considered a healthy one, being
liable to violent alternations of from
20** to 30°. Intermittent fever is en-
demic, and few, if any, strangers es-
cape during a twelve months' residence.
Often they are attacked within a few
weeks of their arrival. January and
February, during which a dry E. wind
prevails, are specially unhealthy. The
Salem district is 120 ms. long, and
60 ms. broad. The general aspect of
the district is mountainous : it is tra-
versed by the K4v6ri, the Pdldr and
the Pendr rivers. The principal
mountains are the Shivardi range.
They are colonized by coffee plant^,
and also much frequented by visitors
on account of the salubrious climate.
Besides coffee, fruits such as pears,
peaches, loquats are grown. The high-
est peak rises 5260 ft. above the level
of the sea. Though the town is 1070
ft, above that level, it lies in the lowest
part of a valley, about 7 ms. in width,
formed by the Shivardi Hills (called
also Shewarry and Shwarry) — ». name
derived from Shiva, a Hindii god, and
Rdi "a king") — to the N. and a
smaller ^d nameless range to the S.

" The greater part of the district
was ceded to the British in 1792 by
Tlpii in accordance with treaty. The
remainder was acquired after the fall
of Seringapatam, From 1802 to 1805
large portions of the district were par-
celled out into permanently settled
estates, which were sold by auction to
the highest bidder, who became the
middleman between the government
and the ryot or cultivator. The re-
venue of the estates thus created, was
a little more than £165,000. Many of
the proprietors became impoverished,
and their estates were put up to auc-
tion and bought in by the^o^^YMtti!sc&.*
Theie novr xems^'a \^^ o'LXJa^ vs-wesis^

184

Route 4. — Arlconam to Yirod,

Sect. 11.

to soYenmient by the ryots or culti-
vators. The highest tax for irrigated
land is £1 8*. per acre, and the
lowest 3*. l^d. The tax on unirri-
gated land varies from 10*. to Qd.
the acre. The revenue from land
amounts to £226,300." ^

Salem is well built, with many hand-
some chAwadis or houses for travellers,
and is altogether one of the best speci-
mens of a native town in this part of
India. The streets are wide, and
planted with cocoa-nut trees in regular
lines: and there are two very broad
principal streets, running E. and W.,
having handsome two-storeyed houses
with bastard Italian facades. The
Tyromani r., which has its main
source in the Shivardl hills, forms the
boundary of the town on the N. and
W. sides, and there is a good substan-
tial bridge, with 3 arches thrown
across it on the W. side, over which
the rd. into the town from that quarter
passes. This stream, elsewhere incon-
siderable, is made to bear the appear-
ance of a r. near Salem, by 3 dams,
one at the entrance of the town, and
a second, 9 f . off "\^here the r. ceases
to form the W. boundary, and seems
to have been diverted fi*om its natural
course for the defence of the fort, now
old and dismantled, two sides of which
axe washed by it. The third dam is 9
or 10 f. lower down the stream.

The face of the surrounding country
is studded with tanks, and during the
rains not less than 200 can be seen
from the brow of the Shivardi hills,
Within a circumference of 5 m. there
are 18 of these tanks, from 1 f. to 1^
m. in diameter. Besides the Tyromani
r., which is never entirely dry, there
are 2400 wells, and 30 large ones, with
steps and arches to descend to the
water. In spite of these being in gene-
ral brackish, the natives drink of them,
and think the water not unwholesome
to themselves, though they admit that
it is to strangers. As there is abundant
means of irrigation, the land round
Salem is highly cultivated. Of the
arable land, the proportion of wet
caltiration to dry is estimated at IJ
^ ^/ 77i0 pop, of the town, exclu-
^^re of agncultiiral labomers, consists

chiefly of silk and cotton weavers, and
cotton more than sufficient for their
employment is grown in the vicinity.
Upam cotton, a perennial plant, is indi-
genous in the country. The Bourbon
cotton has also been introduced, and
is greatly on the increase from the
congeniality of the calcareous soil to
its growth. The American sea-island
vine-leaf and Nankin cotton have also
been successfully introduced. Indigo
and the common tobacco of the country
are cultivated ; the former being
manufactured to some extent — and all
the ordinary grains are produced.
In average seasons, even from dry
cultivation, 2 and even 3 crops are
reaped, and grain is therefore cheap.
The soil of the country round Salem
varies much. A thin layer of calcare-
ous and red loam prevails, through
which quartz rocks appear on the sur-
face in many places. Native carbonate
of magnesia or magnesite is found in
a stony, barren plain, 5 m. to the N.W.,
in veins running in a vertical direction
through hornblende rock, of which all
the hills about Salem are formed.
With this magnesite, chromate of iron
is found, and also thick veins of quartz.
The chief value of this carbonate of
magnesia is to form an excellent
cement, but it has also been used in
the preparation of sulphate of mag-
nesia and pure magnesia. In the S.
of the CoUectorate, iron ore exists in
considerable quantity, and yields, on
fusion, 60 per cent, of metal.

The district of Salem is the princi-
pal seat of the Indian steel manufac-
ture (or wutz). The ore occurs gene-
rally in the low hills, and the quantity
exposed above the surface is so great,
that it is not probable that mining
operations will ever be necessary.
The ore is prepared for smelting by
stamping and separating the quartz
from it, by washing it in a current of
water, or winnowing it like rice. In
most deposits, parts are found where
the quartz is in a state of disintegra-
tion, and these, from the facility with
which they are broken, are selected
by the natives ioi lYvevi tvimaces. The
smelting tativwie \a tioxa. ^ \o ^ ^»
high, and \>ie ^o\\Tid ^a V^\^^^^^

Sect. II.

Boute i, — Salem,

185

beneath from 8 to 12 in. From 2 ft.
diameter at the gromid, it tapers to
1 ft. at top, and is built entirely of
clay. Two men can finish one in a
few hours, and it is ready for use next
day. The blast is supplied by two
bellows, each made of a single goat-
skin with a bambii nozzle. The two
nozzles meet in a clay pipe which
passes half-way through the furnace at
the level of the ground, and by work-
ing the bellows ^ternately, an uniform
blast is maintained. A semicircular
opening, 1 ft. in height and in dia-
meter at bottom, is left in the furnace,
and before each smelting built up with
clay. The furnace is then filled with
charcoal, and a lighted coal being
placed before the bellows the fuel is
soon kindled ; whereupon a little ore,
moistened with water to prevent its
running through the charcoal, but
without any kind of flux, is laid on the
fuel, and the furnace is filled up with
charcoal. In this manner ore and fuel
aje added, and the bellows plied for 4
hours. The temporary wall in front
is then broken down, and the bloom
removed with tongs from the bottom
of the furnace, and beaten with a
mallet to separate as much of the
vitrified oxide of iron as possible, and,
while red-hot, it is cut through with
a hatchet to show the quality. It is
then sold to the blacksmiths, who
forge it into bars, and make it into
steel.

The iron is forged into bars by sink-
ing the blooms in a small charcoal
furnace, and by repeated beatings and
hammerings to free it from the vitri-
fied and unreduced oxide of iron. It
is then formed into bars 12 in. long,
14 broad, and IJ thick. In this state
it is full of cracks, and exceedingly
red and short ; and were an Engliii
manufacturer of steel to be told that
excellent cast steel could be made
from such iron, he would treat the
assertion with contempt.

It is from this unpromising material,

however, that Indian steel is always

made. The bars are cut small to pack

close in the cruciblef into which

Jrom ^ a pound to 2 poundSf according

fo the required weight of t|ie mass of

steel, is put, with one-tenth of the
weight of dried wood, chopped small,
and the whole is covered with one, or
two green leaves. The crucible month
is then stopped with tempered clay,
rammed close so as to exclude all air.

The wood which is always selected "
to furnish carbon to the iron, is the
Cassia auricvlatOj and the covering
leaves are those of the Asclepias
gigantea^ or of the Convolvuha lawi-
foling, "VMien the day. is dry, 20 to 24
crucibles are built up in the form of
an arch, with their bottom inwards, in
a small furnace urged by two goatskin
bellows. Charcoal is heaped over them ,
and the blast kept up for 2^ hours,
when the process is complete. The
crucibles are then removed and al-
lowed to cool, then broken, and the
steel taken out in a cake. The cruci-
bles are made of red loam mixed with
charred husk of rice ; a rotary motion
is given to this clay in one hand, while
it is hollowed out by the other. The
steel cakes are prepared for being
drawn into bars by annealing them
for some hours in a charcoal fire. This
operation removes the excess of carbon,
and without it no cake would stand
drawing into bars without breaking.
The antiquity of the Indian process of
making steel id no less astonishing
than its ingenuity, for its theory is
extremely recondite, and in its dis-
covery there seems but little room for
the agency of chance. We can hardly
doubt that the tools with which the
Egyptians covered their obelisks and
temples of porphyiy and syenite with
hieroglyphics, were made of Indian
steel ; for there is no evidence that
any nation of antiquity, save the
Hindiis, were acquainted with the art
of manufacturing steel.

Salem is likewise remarkable as be-
ing the first district in the Madras
Presidency where a European Zamin-
ddr ^possessed Ismd. The holder was
the late Mr. Fischer, who claimed the
privilege by the charter of 1833, and
purchased in 1836 a considetohVo^
zamlnd^ ox e,^«Xfe, ^ xo.. '^ssck.^ «si.^ ^
broad. Hep«ii^TLO\.\ee»^Xl"KQ.^ft§**i^«^

to Go^emmeaX,. ^^ ^^^^ ^"*^?^^^^
his successtttV ^x^rflSiaiA«»^»^ ««S^^

186

Route 4, — Arhonam to Yirod,

Sect. II.

lure, planting and manufactures, he
did very much to benefit the part of
India in which he resided. The ryots
under his daughter, who has succeeded
him, cultivate the usual Indian grains,
and each is assessed in a fixed propor-
tion of the crop. With this system
the natives appear perfectly satisfied,
and from the air of comfort about them,
and the rapid multiplication of their
numbers, its excellence cannot be
doubted.

TJie Shivardi Hills, — Those who
desire to visit these interesting hills,
must write beforehand to the station-
master at Salem, or to some friend
there to make arrangements to have a
cart or carriage to take them from
Salem to the foot of the hills — a dis-
tance of about 7 m. There is a travel-
lers* b. at the foot of the hills, but
nothing to be got there in the shape
of food or attendance, so the traveller
must take his own provisions and ser-
vant with him. The principal station
on the hills, where the English reside,
is YerkAd. There is no travellers' b.
there, but a hotel. Yerkdd is a very
small place, with not more than 20
houses. It is about 4300 ft. above the
sea, and not safe from fever. The high-
est part of the hills is 5371 ft., called
Sholar Karadu, near the centre. The
ghdt or ascent to Yerkdd is 5 m. long,
and is not fitted for wheel traffic. The
traveller therefore must make, or get
made, arrangements with a stable-
keeper at Salem for ponies, a palan-
quin or tonjon, to take him from the b.
at the foot of the hills to YerkAd. 6 m.
from YerkM on the N. or Madras side
is NAgaliir, at about 4000 ft. elevation,
where Mr. John Bruce Norton, the
well-known former leader of the
Madras bar, had a house. A traveller
desirous of reaching NAgaliir from
Madras, would leave the latter place
at 6 P.M., and arrive at the Shivardi
Hill Stat, at 3 A.M. Arrangements,
as before said, must be made previously
with a stable-keeper at Salem for
ponieB so as to have them ready in
tAe morning. The ride up the ghdt
JoJV}^aJiir, a very lovely one, is about
J^JB, Jong, but on account of the steep-
-oe«y of the road f as also to give time to

enjoy the scenery, the traveller who
starts at 5 A.M., will not probably
arrive till 7 a.m. Only a few small
streams are found on the hiUs, some
of which dry up between the N.E.
monsoon and the I'etum of the S.W.,
and at their summits the hills are
scantily clothed with vegetation. Od
their sides for ^ of the ascent the
common trees and shrubs of the plain
are met with ; the next ^ is overgrown
with bambii, and above it grow short,
coarse herbage, long rank grass with
ferns, and a thick, stubborn shrub
peculiar to the hills. The streams,
however, are bordered with large,
wide-spreading trees, among which
the bastard cedar predominates. There
is a pass on the N. side as well as that
on the S. from Salem. In June, 1824,
a temittent fever broke out which
caused these hills, which had till then
been much frequented by invalids, to
be deserted for a time. In fact, the
elevation is not above fever range, and
though, as a general rule, healthy
during the dry months, they cannot
be pronounced safe after a fall of rain.
The same remark applies to the other
ranges in this Collectorate.

The coffee tree grows on these hills
luxuriantly, and yields a ton an acre ;
whereas in Ceylon it yields only fi*om
8 to 10 cwt. The plants begin to bear
in 3 years, are in full bearing at G
years, and last 30 years. The forests
abound with deer, elk, hogs, leopards,
tigers, and there are a few elephants,
which are prohibited game, and are
killed only when they become mis-
chievous. The bison, too (Bos cavi-
frons), are preserved by government.
During the hot weather they frequent
the woods and valleys, congregating in
large herds, but after the first showers
they roam at large. In July and
August they regularly descend to the
plains to lick the earth impregnated
with natron or soda, which seems as
essential to them as common salt to
the domestic cattle when kept in hilly
tracts. Many attemps have Ijeenmade
to domesticate the bison, but in vain.
Some "have \ieen VJlY'&d 20 hands high
at the 8\iO\ild^T, «lti^ ^ l"t. m ^^"Oa..

Sect. 11.

Rovie 4. — Trichindpallu

187

in the Salem collectorate would interest
the geologist. The following minerals
were sent from this locality to the
Exhibition of 1851 : white, white com-
posite (of felspar and soapstone), fawn-
coloured, green and red kaolin ; soap-
stone ; corundum (allied to the sap-
phire), and red and green do. ; cul]^-
spar ; talc and mica ; grey salt ;
glaze-clay ; grey, black, and yellow
clay ; light-red marl ; variety of ice-
spar ; Venetian talc ; magnesia or
magnesite ; saltpetre ; tourmalin ;
blood-stone ; chromate of iron ; iron
(highly magnetic) ; compact black
iron-stone ; vesicular iron ore ; octo-
hedral crystals of peroxide of iron ;
cream-coloured, stone-coloured, and
salmon-coloured ochre ; raw and burnt
sienna. On the same occasion speci-
mens of coffee, cotton, tobacco, and
cheroots from Salem were exhibited.

From Salem to Yirod is 36^ m.,
which distance is done in 1 hr. and
25 min. Lofty hills are seen from this
station. The town is small, but has
some historical interest attaching to
it. It was taken by Dud Deo Ildj,
Rdj4 of Maisiir in 1667 A.D., from
the Ndiks of Madura, to whom it pre-
viously belonged. In 1768, though
garrisoned by 200 Europeans and
1200 Sipdhls, and provided with 8
heavy guns and 2 mortars, it was
surrendered to Haidar 'All without a
blow. Haidar had just destroyed a
body of 50 European soldiers, and 200
Sipdhis with 2 guns, and hurrying on
to Yirod he demanded a surgeon to
dress the wounds of his prisoners, and
requested Captain Orton, commanding
the garrison of Yirod, to come out and
confer with him. Captain Orton com-
plied, and was forthwith made prisoner,
and desired to write an order to Captain
llobinson, his second in command, to
cajntulate, which that officer did.

On leaving Yirod for Trichindpalli,
the traveller enters upon the narrow
gauge of the South Indian iUy., where
the company do not guarantee the
times being kept, nor hold themselves
responsible for delay. The distance
from Yirod to Trichinipalli is 90 m.,
over quite level ground, the stats.
being as follows :

Names of
Stations.

Distances
in Miles.

Remabks.

Yirod to

Train leaves at 6.5

1. Passur .

P.M. and arrives

2. Ai^jalur . .

at Trichitiipalli

3. Kudumudi

Junction at 10.28

4. Pugaliir . .

P.M.

5. KAnir .

9ilf going to the Civil

6. Katate . .

lU: or Military Tiines,

7. Lalapeta

and not expressly

8. Kalital^ . .

to some house in

9. Ellamsamiir .

the town, the tra-

10. Trichin4palU

veller must be

Fort .

careful to ali^t
at the JunOtoH

,, Junction

stat. and not at

Total

the Fort stat

TrichindpaUi is situated on the rt,
bank of the KAv6ri in N. lat. lO'* 67',
E. long. 70° 44', and within J m. of
the river's bank. In Pharoah's " Ga-
zetteer " (p. 340) the name is said to
be derived from Tri-sira-pili, "three-
headed place," from a three-headed
giant supposed to have resided there.
The Muhammadans call it Natamagar,
from one of their holy men named
Natar, whose shrine still exists there.

TrichindpaUi is a place of historical
interest. In 1736 the RAjd, who was
tributary to the NiiwAb of the Kar-
ndtik, died, and of his 3 queens 2
underwent cremation. The 3rd re-
fused to became a sati and assumed the
government. Dost 'All, who had suc-
ceeded his father, Sa'adat 'All, in the
Niiwdbship of the Kamdtik, sent an
army under his eldest son, Saffdar 'AH,
and his son-in-law, liusain Dost Khto,
better known to Europeans as Chandd
SA^ib, on pretext of collecting tribute,
but really to seize the fort. Chandd
Sdl^ib induced the queen to admit a
body of troops into the town, and then
made her prisoner and seized the
place. On the 20th of May, 1740, the
Mardthas under Raghuji Bhonsl^ de-
feated and killed Dost 'All at the pass
of DAmalcheri, and then spread them-
selves over the Eamdtik ; and on the
26th of May, 1741, captured TrichinA-
palli, and sent ChaM.^ ^^V^\!o %s^ ^^^-
Bonex to ^atkt^, v«>aftT:^ V^ ^^oiSMiR^
till 174:^. ^affi^sa ' ^V, ^\ic> ^»^ ^

188

Rovie 4. — Yirod to Trichindpalli,

Sect. II.

dered by his brother-in-law, Murta?a
'AH, in 1742, and the latter was obliged
to fly to Veliir. In 1743 the great
NigAmu'l mulk invaded the Kamdtik.
Mar4ri RAo Ghorpor6 then held Tri-
chindpalli with a considerable Mardtha
force ; but the Nijsdm having acknow-
ledged him as Chief of Gutti, he left
Trichindpalli and evacuated the Kar-
ndtik with all his troops. The Nizdm
appointed Anvaru'd-din to be the
Niiwdb of the Kamdtik, or, according
to Orme (vol. i., p. 54) made him
regent for Saiyid Muhammad, the son
of the murdered Saffdar *A11. But in
June 1744 Saiyid Muhammad was him-
self assassinated, and Anvaru'd-din
became settled in the government.
In 1748 M, Dupleix (Orme, vol. i..
Book II., p. 120) having guaranteed
the payment of 700,000 rs. by Chandd
Sd^^ib to the Mardthas, obtained that
person's release from confinement at
Satdrd, and got the Mardthas to sup-
port him with .3000 men. Chandd
Sdhib, on arriving in the Kamdtik,
allied himself with MusjafEar jang, and
was with him when he defeated and
killed Anvaru'd-din at the battle of
Ambiir, on the 22nd of July, 1749,
after which victory Mugaffar jang
occupied Arkdt, and made Chandd
Sdhib Niiwdb of the Kamdtik. On
the 4th of December, 1760, Ndsir jang,
the Nigdm of the Dakhan, was mur-
dered by the Niiwdb of Kadapa ; and
shortly afterwards, on the 31st of
Januar}', 1751, his successor and
nephew, Muzaffar jang, was killed in
action by the Niiwdb of Blarmil, on
which the Nizdm's army left the Kar-
ndtik, and Chandd Sdhib, who had in
the meantime been gaining strength,
in July, 1751, besieged the fort of
Trichindpalli, which was held by the
English and their ally, Muhammad
'AH. Chandd Sdl^ib's camp lay along
the Kdv6ri, and the French battalion
that served under his orders fixed their
quarters at Chakli-pdlam, a village on
the 1. b. of the r., and 2^ m. from the
M side oi the town. They placed
their principal battery to the S. of the
-^.M angle of the town-wall, and 1200

^^' ^ ^'^' ^^^ ^^^7 ^Iso mounted 2
^-pounders on a rock situated 2000 yds.

due E. of the S.E. angle of the town,
and this spot has ever since borne
the name of French Rocks. Here, on
the 28th of March, 1752, Major Law-
rence with 400 European soldiers,
1100 Sipdhls, and 8 iield guns, de-
feated the French and Chandd Sdhib,
killing 40 of the French and 300 of
Chandd's men, 285 horses and an
elephant. Murari Rdo, who had 6000
Mardthas under him, and was on the
side of the English, took no part in
this action, as he was intriguing to
join Chandd. On the 29th Major
Lawrence marched into Trichindpalli,
and on the 30th sent Captain Dal ton,
with 400 English soldiers, to attack
Chandd's camp on the E., while he
assailed it from the town. Dalton
was led out of his way by his guides,
and consequently the attack did not
take place ; but M. Law, who com-
manded the French, was so impressed
with his danger that he retreated to
the island of Shrirangam, where he
took up his quarters in the temple of
Jambukeshwar, while Chandd Sdhib's
troops occupied that of Shrirangam.
Clive, who held a captain's commission
under Lawrence, persuaded the latter
to divide his force, which he did, anc^
gave Clive the command of 400 Eng-
lish soldiers, 700 Sipdhls, 3000 Ma-
rdthas, 1000 Tanjiirine cavalry, and 8
guns. With these Clive marched to
the 2 pagodas of Samiavaram, and
there it was that the career of the
Hero of Plessy was more nearly being
cut short by death in battle than per-
haps on any other occasion. M. Law
had detached 80 Europeans, 40 of
whom were English deserters, and 700
Sipdhls, to occupy Samiavaram, under
the idea that Clive had withdrawn
almost its entire garrison to cut off a
convoy under M. d'Auteuil marching
from Utatiir. The French, preceded
by an Irish deserter, captured the
lesser pagoda and put every man in it
to death, at the same time firing a
volley into a traveller's rest-house,
where CHve lay asleep, which killed his
servant and shattered a box at his feet.
Clive, staitixi^ \xp tcom ^Vi^^, VstoM^ht
200 English. 8o\!9L\eift \.o l\i^ svo't \ \svi\.,
mistaking th^ oXX^ck iox m ^\wcm ot

Sect. IL

Route 4. — Tnclundpalli.

189

his own men, went among the French
SipAhis, upbraiding them for their
panic, and even striking them (Orme,
Tol. i., p. 223). At length one of
them, finding Clive to be an English-
man, attacked and wounded him in
two places, and then fled into the
little pagoda. Clive followed him,
and was met by 6 Frenchmen, when,
with admirable presence of mind,
he told them to surrender, as the
pagoda was surrounded by his whole
army. On this 3 of them gave up
their arms and followed Clive, who
went to tell his Englishmen to attack
the French Sipdhis ; but these had
meanwhile discovered their mistake,
and had marched off, the English per-
mitting them to do so in the belief
that they were obeying Clive's orders.
A few minutes afterwards, however,
Clive's men captured 8 Frenchmen
sent to reconnoitre, and these,. with the
3 Clive had taken, were sent with a
sergeant's party to be put in confine-
ment ; but the sergeant took them to
the little pagoda, which was still oc-
cupied by the French, who released
their comrades, but, strangely enough,
allowed the sergeant and his party to
escape. Clive then attempted to storm
the little pagoda, but the deserters
fought desperately, and killed one of
Clive's officers and 15 of his men, and
then with the French made a sally,
but were driven back with the loss of
the French commanding officer and 12
others. Clive then advanced to parley
with the enemy, and, being weak from
loss of blood, stood with his back against
the wall, and leaning on the shoulders
of 2 sergeants. While thus parleying,
an English deserter called out to Clive
that he would shoot him, and fired,
killing both the sergeants, but happily
leaving Clive unhurt. The French
men, indignant at this outrage, then
surrendered. In the meantime the
Mardtha cavalry had pursued the 700
Sipdhls, and, coming up with them,
cut them all to pieces. After this
reverse the French under M. Law,
and the army of Chandd SA^jib, shut
themselves up, the latter in the Shri-
rangam pagoda, and the French in.
Jambakeshwaf, 3f. d'Auteuil, with all

his force, was made prisoner by Clive,
and this surrender was followed by
that of M. Law, who, with 35 officers,
785 French soldiers, 2000 Sipdhls and
54 guns, fell into the hands of the
English. Chanda Sdljiib gave himself
up to Manikji, who commanded the
Tanjiir force in alliance with the
English, and who, after swearing so-
lemnly to send him safely to the
French settlement of Ednkal, had
him murdered, and sent his head to
Muhammad 'All, 2nd son of Anvam'd-
din, who escaped from the battle of
Ambiir, and was supported by the
English as Niiwdb of the Kamdtik.
Trichindpalli was then given over to
Mull^ammad 'All, who hsid promised it
to the Maisiireans, as the price of
their aid against the French. The
Maisiireans claimed the fulfilment of
this promise, which was ratified by a
treaty signed and sealed ; and the
Mardtha chief, Murdri Rdo, likewise
endeavoured to secure the place for
himself, and both parties abandoned
the English cause and joined the
French. The Mard^has greatly as-
sisted the forces of M. Dupleix, and
the Maisiireans blockaded Trichind-
palli, which must have been starved
into surrender but for suppUes re-
ceived from what was then called
Tondiman's country, and which is now
governed by the Rdjd of Pudukotai.
On the 6th of May, 1763, Major Law-
rence returned to Trichindpalli with
500 European soldiers, 2000 Sipdhis,
and 3000 horse in the service of Mu-
tiammad 'All. On the 10th he attacked
the Maisiireans and Mardthas in the
island of Shrlrangam, who were sup-
ported by M. Astruc, who had under
him 200 Europeans and 500 Sipdhis,
with 4 guns. The battle was inde-
cisive, and the English returned to*
Trichindpalli, after losing 2 officers^
and a few men killed and 3 officers-
wounded. On the 26th of June, how-
ever, a much more desperate action
was fought, in which Major Lawrence,,
with only 380 European soldiers and
500 Sip&is, gained a com^^le.tft nvj.-
toiy over ^i\i'ft c.oTc^\sifti^. ^^^wSsv^'^&a*-

190

Route L-^Yirod to Trichindpalli.

Sect. II.

of 15 to 1. The battle began by the
French, under M. Astrue, capturing an
advanced post on a rock, 4 m. N. of
Fakir's T6p, and killing 200 Sipihls
Lawrence had posted there. A hand-
ful of English grenadiers retook this
rock, while Lawrence, with the
scanty remainder of his troops,
charged the main body of the French
at the point of the bayonet, and dis-
persed them, capturing 3 guns, and
then, after repulsing repeated charges
of the Mardfha cavalry, in one of
which Balapah, the brother-in-law of
Murdri R4o, a most gallant officer,
was killed, and routing 10,000 Maisiir
horse, who with the Mardthas made a
final charge, the English returned in
triumph to their camps. " Thus was
Trichindpalli saved by a success which
astonished even those who had gained
it." Affairs were, however, again com-
plicated by the desertion of Muhammad
All's troops, who went over in a body
to the enemy, having previously asked
Capt. Dalton, in charge of the garrison
on Lawrence's departure to Tanjiir,
not to fire on them. This strange re-
quest was still more strangely granted,
and the result was, that though the
garrison had sufficient food, the scarcity
in the city, owing to all supplies being
stopped by the enemy's cavalry, was
80 great that a quart of rice sold
for 25. 6d, (Orme, vol. i. p. 297.) On
the 9th of August, 1753, Major Law-
rence, who had been reinforced at
Tanjiir by 170 English soldiers and
300 Sipdhls from Fort St. David's,
and by 3000 horse and 2000 Tanjiir
troops, arrived within sight of the
French, Mard^ha, and Maisiir camp.
Their cavalry extended from French
Bock, which is rather more than a m.
due S. from the S.E. corner of Trichi-
ndpalli, to Sugar-loaf Bock, a distance
of 2^ m.. Sugar-loaf Bock being that
distance S. by E. of the S.E. angle of
Trichindpalli. Thence it stretched to
Golden Bock, IJ m. due W. of Sugar-
loaf Bock. Lawrence resolved to turn
the enemy's left flank, and his Grena-
di'eivaoon captured the Golden Bock
And planted the English colours there.
r^ t?^^ XaifTCzzce ordered an attack
on the enemy's gum, and when Capt.

Kirk was killed at the head of the
Grenadiers, Lawrence himself led them
on, and routed the enemy, taking 3 of
their guns. In the night the enemy
moved to Waikondah, 2^ m. W. of
Trichindpalli, where there was a small
fort defended by 2 guns and garri-
soned by the Maisiireans. Thence,
however, they retreated in a day or
two to Mutacheliniir, a strong post
opposite the W. extremity of Shriran-
gam Island, where, on the 24th of
August, they were joined by Murari
Bdo, bringing a reinforcement of 10,000
men, of whom 400 were Europeans,
with 6 guns. The combined army
then moved to the Five Bocks, which
are 44 m. S.W. of the S.W. angle of
Trichindpaflli, and Major Lawrence
pitched his camp between them and
the city, a little to the N. of Fakir's
Top. Thence he again moved to
French Bock. Here on the 16th of
September he was joined by a rein-
forcement of 237 Europeans and 300
Sipdhis under Captains Bidge and
CalUaud. In the meantime the
enemy had moved to Golden Bock
and Sugar-loaf Bock, taking up their
old position, from which they had
been driven a month before. Here on
the 2l8t of September Major Lawrence
attacked them, and put them to a
complete roufc, capturing M. Astrue,
the French commanding officer, 10
other officers and 165 French soldiers,
11 guns, and all the tents, baggage,
and ammunition of the French camp.
The French also lost 100 in killed and
wounded, and they and their allies
the Mard^has and Maisiireans retreated
into the island of Shiirangam, while
Lawrence quartered his troops, partly
in Trichindpalli, and partly in Koeladi.
In the beginning of November 1753
the French were reinforced by 300
Europeans and 1000 Sipdhis with
some guns, and on the 28th they made
a night attack on the Fort of Trichi-
ndpalli and succeeded in entering the
outer fortifications at Dalton's Battery
at the N.W. angle. Here there was a
pit 30 ft. deep, into which many of
the assailants ieYL, wdd their screams
alarmed t"\ie ^arnaorv., ^\io^ \^^ Xyj
Lieutenant B.asxYBK«i,xe^\i^^ ^iJas. ^\.-

Sect IL

jRoiUe 4. — -Trichindpallu

191

tack and made 360 of the French
prisoners, and killed or wounded the
rest of the attacking column, which
at the conmiencement numbered 600
men. This, however, was signally
avenged in the middle of February
1754, when Muriri R&o attacked a large
convoy coming to the English camp, es-
corted by the famous company of Grena-
diers 100 strong, 80 other Europeans,
800 Sipdhis, and 4 guns, with 8 officers.
Of the officers 5 were killed and 3
wounded and made prisoners, with
138 of the soldiers, of whom 100
were wounded. The remaining 50
were killed, and all -the convoy and
guns were taken. On the 12th of
May a second attempt of the French
against an English convoy disastrously
failed, and the French, though greatly
superior in number, lost 200 of their
battalion, and had 300 Sipdhis killed
and wounded, Soon after this Mur^
lUo, after cutting to pieces a column
of 1500 Tanjdrines, accepted a sum
of money from the Rdj4 of Tanjiir,
and marched off to his own princi-
pality. On the 2nd of August, 1754,
M. Dupleix was superseded in the
government of the French p6sses8ions
in India by M. Godeheu, who was
deputed to arrange matters with the
English. On the 16th Major Law-
rence marched from Tanjiir with an
English battalion of 1200 men, 3000
Sipdhis, and 14 guns, and a Tanjiirine
force of 2500 cavalry and 3000 in-
fantry, with several guns. On the
17th he fought an indecisive action
with the French and Maisiireans.
blockading Trichindpalli, in which 100
of the French battalion were killed
and wounded, and the English lost 8 of
their number, one of whom was the
gallant Captain Pigou. The French
then retreated to Mutachellam, and
their post at Elimiviram was captured
by the Tanjiirines, under MAnikjl.
On the 11th of October, after an
English squadron had arrived with
the 49th Regt. 700 strong, and 40
ai*tillerymen, a suspension of arms
was proclaimed. On the 11th of
January, 1755, a treaty was published
patting an end to the war, and leaving
the French in possession of far greater

territories than the English. On the
14th of April the Maisiir general, who
had persisted in his attempt to get
possession of Trichindpalli even when
abandoned by the French, finally
broke up his camp at Shrirangam, and
marched back to his own country.
On the 9th of July the Niiwdb of the
Eamdtik, Mul^ammad 'All, being at
last securely established by the aid of
the English, left Trichindpalli, and
went to take up his residence at Arkdt.
In May, 1757, M. d'Auteuil with 1000
Europeans, 150 hussars, 3000 Sipdhis
and 19 guns, besieged Trichindpalli,
which was garrisoned by only 104
Europeans, 70 Sipdhis, and some
almost useless irregulars. Captain
Calliaud, however, by a forced march
from Madura, with 120 Europeans,
and 1200 Sipdhis, relieved the place,
advancing through swampy rice-fields
so deep that he could not move at a
greater rate than 1 m. an hour. On
the 15th of June, 1790, General
Meadows marched against Tipii from
the plain of Trichindpalli with the
army of the Karndtik which had
assembled there. In 1801 Trichind-
palli passed with the other territories
of the Niiwdbs of the Eamdtik to the
English. Trichindpalli contains 76,530
inhab., and is the capital of a coUecto-
rate comprehending 3515 sq. m., with
1,200,408 inhab., of whom only 25,511
are Sunni Mu];iaminadans, 3193
Shi'ahs, 89 Wahdbis, and 3231 Mus-
lims of other sects. The Christians
number 52,222. Of the Hindiis 34,709
are Satanis or followers of Chaitanya,
a Hindil reformer who was bom at
Nandya in Bengal in 1485 A.D. They u
do not wear the long lock of hair as..
other Hindiis do.

During the whole of the si^e of
Madras by M. Lally, and the opera-'
tions which preceded it, Trichindpalli
formed a valuable point d'appui to
Madras, and Orme admits (vol. ii.
p. 458) that its retention was second
in importance only to that of Madras.
Large reinforcements were drawn
from it, one of which.^ und<ai: t\aA
famous \)atl\a:.«a. oSSl^^t: ^^^xsJc^-KssssaaSs^

\ was aAao t\v^ ^^\j^'<. ^'^sti ^S^ssscl^ ^-^^

192

MoiUe 4. — Yirod to Trichindjyalli

Sect. II.

soners, who at one time were more
numerous than the invalid Europeans
of the garrison, in the proportion of
6 to 1. On the 20th of Jan., 1769, the
NiiwAb of ArkAt left Madras to return
to Trichindpalli, as his own capital,
Arkdt, had been taken by the enemy.
He reached Trichindpalli on the 10th,
escorted by Major Calliaud, and on
the 18th of March, 1760, ArkAt having
been retaken by the English, he again
leftTrichindpalli at the head of several
thousand men, of whom only about 1200
were troops that could be relied on.
With this force he took part with the
English in the reduction of several
forts, and in July returned to ArkAt.
On the 16th of January, 1761, Pondi-
cherry surrendered, and on the oth of
April, 1761, the war of Coromandel,
in which Trichindpalli had played so
important a part, ended.

The principal sights at Trichindpalli
are the Fort and Tank at the foot
of it, where the house in which Olive
lived, is still shown ; the Great Temples
of Shrlrangam and Jambukeshwar ;
the Anakatts, and the Jail. The gold-
smiths of Trichindpalli are famous for
their work in the precious metals, and
their chains, ornaments, and images
are worth examination, though articles
made by them are procui*able at
Messrs. Orr's shop in Madras, of the
best quality and quite as cheap.

I7ie Fort, — From any of the houses
near St. John's church in the canton-
ment, a drive of about 2 m. — at the
commencement of which are passed on
the 1. a plain obelisk to the memory
of Mr. McDonnell, formerly Collector
and afterwards Judge of Trichindpalli,
and further on a large Roman Oatholic
church — will take the traveller to the
Fort or Rock, which was the citadel,
and which until 1845 was surrounded
by walls, " occupying " (Pharaoh's
" Gazetteer," p. 340) a " rectangle of
nearly 1 m. in length, and J ra. in
breadth." Orme, in greater detail,
says (vol. i. p. 180), " Trichinapalli is a
pai-allelogram, of which the E. and
TV, sides extend, near 2000 yds.,
and the N. and S, about 1200. It has
^double mclosurc of walls, each of
friuch is dnnked by round towers,

built at equal distances fi*om one
another. The outer wall is 18 ft.
high, and about 6 ft. thick, without
rampart or parapet. The inward is
much stronger, being 30 ft. high, with
a rampai't of stone, decreasing by large
steps from the ground to the top,
where it is 10 ft. broad, and has a thin
parapet of stone about 7 ft. high, in
which are loop-holes to fire through.
There is an interval between the 2
walls of 25 ft., and before the outward
a ditch 30 ft. wide and 12 ft. deep,
unequally supplied with water at dif-
ferent seasons, but never quite dry.
In the N. part of the city stands a
rock 150 ft. high, from which the
adjacent country is discovered for
many miles round." In 1845 an order
was issued to demolish these rampai-ts,
and in 1855 the " Gazetteer of S.
India " reported that " the work has
been gradually progressing, though
their complete demolition cannot be.
effected for several years to come."
Now, however, the demolition is com-
plete, and but for history it would not
be easily known that any fortification
beyond the Rock itself ever existed.
However, a yellow streak of open
space at the distance of from 200 to
300 yds. from the Rock shows where
the Fort ditch once was, and there is
also on the N. a ruined bastion called
French Bastion. This is all that re-
mains of the once strong fortification.
The entrance to the covered passage,
which leads to the ascent of the Rock,
is on the W. side, and on either side
of the passage are pillars about 18 ft.
high, which bear the stamp of Jain
architecture. The stone has been
whitewashed and the pillars have
carved capitals representing the Lion
of the S. , and various figures of men
and women, some of them not very deli-
cate. The frieze above is ornamented
with carvings of animals. The covered
passage leads to the ante-room of a
Shivite temple, whence on certain days
the images of the gods — viz., of Shiva,
Pdrvati, Ganesh, and Subrahmanya, or
Skanda — are carried in procession.
There is ahugeNandi Bull covered with
silver pVatea Y;\i\c^ im3ks\,\)«i Ner^ n^Vxs.-
able. The sl^v* oi V)[v^ wsc^tlX, \?^x^ >C^^

Sect. II.

RoiUe 4. — TrichindpcdU,

193

scene of a frightful disaster in 1849. A 1
vast crowd had assembled to worship
Ganesh, who is here called Pilliar, or
" the son." A panic arose, and in
the crush which ensued 500 people
were killed. Passing the antechamber

^ you begin to ascend flights of very-
steep steps, 290 in number, coloured
white with red stripes, and all under
cover. You then reach the upper
entrance into the temple and pass
into the open air, and by mounting 57
more steps a rocky platform is reached
from which there is a magnificent
panoramic view. You then pass to the
N. portion of the Rock, and ascend
109 more very narrow low steps cut
in the rock, some of them only 2 in.
high. After this a very steep stair-
case in the rock is reached of 26 steps
with a low wall on either side, at the
top of which is a Mandapam, or
pavilion, whence there is one of the
finest panoramic views to be seen in
India. On all sides the eye traverses
the plain for 20 or 30 m. The height
of the Rock (according to the district
map) is 236 ft. , and the Mandapam is
10 ft. higher, but the plain is so flat
that this height is suflicient to domi-
nate a vast expanse of country. On
the S. the most conspicuous object is
the Golden Rock, popularly so called,
about 100 ft. high. At the foot of it,
to the W., is the Central Jail. Carry-
ing the eye to the S.E. of this rock is
seen a patch of low hills, the highest
not being above 40 ft. This is French
Rocks, about 2 m. from the Fort. To
the N. of the Fort Rock is the broad
shallow bed of the Kdv^ri, in which,
except in the rains, there is but a
narrow streak of water. Beyond is
the island of Shrirangam, which the
French occupied for several years,
taking up their quarters in the 2 great
temples, that of Shrirangam to the W.,
and that of Jambukeshwar to the E.
The island is 17 m. long from the
Upper Anakatt at the W. extremity to
a point a little to the E. of Kilikuddi
on the E. Its greatest breadth is IJ
m., and Shrirangam temple is 5 m.
from the W. extremity. As the whole
island is covered with densd groves,

the temples are not distinctly Been,

Beyond to the N. in the far distance
rises a long line of hills. To the N.W.
is the Tale Malai range, the greatest
height of which is 1800 ft., while due
N. of the Fort Rock are the Kale
Malai HiUs, which attain 4000 ft.',
and E. of these are the Pache hills,
which in some parts rise to 2300 ft.
Turning to the W. the old town of
Wdriiir is seen, where there was once
a cantonment. At the foot of the Fort
Rock in this direction, that is to the
W., is a handsome Tappe Xulam, that
is, a tank with stone steps descending
on each side to the water's edge, and a
Mandapam or temple in the centre.
At the S.E. comer of this tank are
seen a square comer-house, and a
house with a porch adjoining the
other. In one of these Clive lived,
but it is not certain in which. There
is strong reason, however, to think
that it was not the comer house, which
appears to have been formerly a Hindi!!
temple. There are 2 kneeling ele-
phants at the door, each about 5 ft.
long and 3 ft. high. The other house
has been the dwelling of a Muljamma-
dan. The lower storey has 5 arches
9 ft. high and 6 ft. 10 wide, 2 pillars
and 6 pilasters. The shafts of thQ
pillars are only 5 ft. high.

As Trichindpalli is one of the hottest
places in India, and the rock becomes
much heated after the sun has risen a
few hours, it is desirable to visit the
Fort Rock as early in the morning as
possible. To see the sun rise from the
top of the rock is a glorious spectacle.

I7ie Temples. — It will be well to
leave the cantonment not later than
6 o'clock for the purpose of visiting
the 2 temples in Shrirangam Island,
as a proper examination of them will
occupy several hours, and the heat soon
becomes disagreeable. After passing
the Catholic church on the 1. and
driving through the great bdz4r for
2 m., during which drive a hospital, a
clock-tower, and 2 fine Teppa-Kulam
tanks will be passed, and then the Fort
Rock, the traveller arrives at the bridge
over the KAv^ri,Y^hvt!.\lYi^S!kA^^^s&^^^^

is ca\\ed\,\i^^ty.'^ferv,ot ^^^^^^^^K
to dia\ixL^vaa\i SX. tt^-o^ "^i^^ ^^^^^

1^4

Rovte 4. — Yirod to Trichindpalli,

Sect. II.

1852 on the north of the island, which
is of brick with stone facings to the
piers, and has 32 elliptic arches of 60
ft. span and 12 ft. rise. The piers are
8 ft. high and thick. The road over it
is 26 ft. wide, and its length is 2685 ft.
The southern bridge, which the tra-
veller will cross to visit the temples,
was opened in 1849. It also is of brick,
and has 32 ielliptic arches of 49 ft. span
and 12J ft. rise. Its piers are 84 ft.
high, and it is 1936 ft. long. The
roadway is 25 ft. wide. After passing
the bridge, the traveller passes under
the shade of thick trees with which
the island is densely covered. The
Great Temple of Shiirangam is just a
mile N.W. as the crow &s from the
N. end of the bridge, but a little more
by the road. A scientific description
of the temple will be found in James
Fergus8on*s, D.C.L., " History of Indian
and Eastern Architecture," ed. of 1876,
at p. 347, and at p. 349 is a view from
a photograph of the eastern half. The
description that follows here is the re-
sult of a personal visit in March, 1878.
The entrance from Trichindpalli is on
the S. side of the temple (Fergusson
says N. side), by a grand gateway,
which appears to have been built as the
base of a great Gopura. This gate-
way is 48 ft. high from the ground to its
terraced roof. The sides of the passage
are lined with pilasters, the surface of
each of which is ornamented with 11
rows, one above another, of 4 small
pillars. A similar design will be found
in No. 16 of PI. XVI. of Ram Rdz's
" Architecture." The passage is about
100 ft. long, and the inner height, ex-
clusive of the roof, is 43 ft. The ascent
to the top of this gateway is on the
1. There are 57 tall steps, and from
them are seen the vast monoliths used
as uprights in the construction, some
of them over 40 ft. high. The stones
on the roof laid horizontally are also
vast. The stone on the inside of the
arch from which the measurement of
the height was taken by dropping a
measuring tape to the ground, is 29 ft.
^j'n. long, 4 ft 5 in. broad, and about
^ ft, thick. There are two plain
pilasters in the gateway, which bear
^ inscription in Tamil characters.

From the terrace at the top of the
gateway is seen the vast outer wall
(2475 ft. by 2880 ft., according to Fer-
gusson), which encloses gardens as
well as the buildings. Within this is
a second wall 20 ft. high. Within this
are 2 great Gopuras on the E. side, 2
smaller on the W., and 3 of a medium
height on the S. Advancing from the
Trichindpalli side the traveller passes
under a small mandapam, and then
through a gopura 5 storeys or about
60 ft. high. The ceilings of the gopu-
ras are all painted, and the ceiling of
this one represents the Vardhah or
Boar Incarnation of Vishnu, as well as
other Avatdras with multitudes of hu-
man beings adoring them. The colours
are well preserved. After this a second
mandapam is passed imder and a second
gopura of 5 storeys, after which you
pass under the third gopura, which has
only 4 storeys, and these not well de-
fined. You now enter another enclosing
wall, which surrounds the more sacred
part, or real temple, beyond which is the
Vimdnah or Adytum, which none but
Hindiis are allowed to enter. The S.
and N. sides of this enclosure are 830
ft. 10 in. long, and the E. and W. longer.
A third mandapam is now passed,
where the jewels of the temple may be
examined. Observe 3 ornaments called
Venkalathd Padukam, of which 2 are of
diamonds and emeralds, and the third
of diamonds and rubies. One of these
is valued at 35,000 rs. There are also
several coverings for the hands and
feet of idols of gold studded with
jewels, as well as large rings for the
toes. Observe, too, chains of gold of
local manufacture, which are as flexible
as string, and a golden bowl said to be
worth 11,500 rs. There are also chains
of gold, 5-franc pieces, and others of
gold 5-rupee pieces. The latter have
the inscription — Pdnch rupiyali Kiim-
jfani Angrez Bahadur. " Five rupees
of the Hon. English Company." After
this you pass through the Hall of 1000
Pillars so-called, but there are now
only 288. The front row looking
N. rest on pediments, representing
men on TCOim^ horses spearing
tigera, w\Aci\i ot^ »X. >i)aa ^^caa Xxma
stabbed by mca ow 1oq\. ^i^-stf^a "Ca?.

Sect. 11.

RotUe 4. — Jamhukeshwar,

195

horses. The tigers are depicted rear-
ing up and clawing the horses and
men. The curator of the pagoda as-
serts that the founder of this building
was a Diwin of the NiiwAb of the
Kamdtik, but the books of the pagoda
would probably give the true account.
After this the great Gopura which is
on the N. may be visited. Ascend 33
steps to the 1st platform, 14 to the 2nd,
20 to the 3rd, 14 to the 4th, 15 to the
5th, 14 to the 6th, 12 to the 7th, 13 to
the 8lh, and 11 to the 9th, or 146 in all.
Thence to the top of 'the gopura is
29 ft. 10 in. This part can be climbed
only by an agile person mounting on
the outside. The total height of the
gopura is 152 ft, detailed as follows :
lowest storey, 28 ft. 8 in.; 2nd, 11 ft.
11 in. ; 3rd, 11 ft. 8 in. ; 4th, 12 ft. 10
in. ; 5th, 12 ft. 8 in. ; 6th, 12 ft. 9 in. ;
7th, 10 ft. 8 in. ; 8th, 10 ft. ; 9th, 11 ft. ;
thence to top outside, 29 ft. 10 in. In
the floor of the passage under this go-
pura is a stone with a Kanarese in-
scription. The Prince of Wales visited
this pagoda, and a gold salver is exhi-
bited by the priests, said to be made
with the gold purchased with the
Prince's donation of 500 rs. On the
salver is inscribed : " In remembrance
of the visit of H.R.H. Albert Edward,
Prince of Wales, to the Shrl Ranga
Pagoda, 11th December, 1875." This
pagoda is vast, but the general opinion
of Europeans is that it is quite devoid
of taste. With the exception of the
pillars with supporters carved in the
shape of horsemen, there is nothing
that can be called interesting. The
gopuras are clumsily built, and, not-
withstanding their enormous bulk,
shake with the steps of a few men.
The ornaments have an offensive smell.
In the ceiling of the third gopura are

Asome grossly indelicate figures. The

'style is said to be the Chilukyan of
tx/jlthe 16th cent., and the bracket or

1 1 plantain capital so common at Bijd-
nagar, is also general here. The
figures on the gopuras are made of
cement, not carved in solid stone^ and
have no artistic merit. It was for a
long time the quarters of Chandd
J^dJjib, as mentioned above, and Mr.

FerguBSon is of opinion that the build-

ing probably commenced about 50 years
before that, or 1700 A.D., and that its
unfinished state is due to that occupa-
tion and the regime that followed. In
Ram R4z's "Architecture," there are
2 views (PI. XXIII. and XXIV.) of
the VimAnah with the figure of Vishnu
over the entrance. According to RAm
R^ (p. 45), temples to Vishnu should
face towards the E., but owing to its
unfinished state it is difficult to say
to which quarter this temple faces. In
the word Shrlrangam S?iri may signify
Lakshmi, the wife of Vishnu, or it may
mean " celestial," and rangam means
" dancing," " voluptuous pleasure."

Javibukeshwar, — In the S. of India
temples are often found in pairs. If
there is one dedicated to Vishnu, there
wiU be one dedicated to Shiva. Bo
here, at about 1^ m. from the great
temple, is a smaller one sacred to Jam-
hukeshwar or Shiva, from jambvlta^
" rose-apple," and Uhwar "lord," or
Lord of India, Jambu being a division of
the world, ' India ;' and T^war, * deity.'
The traveller will retrace his steps to-
wards the K4v^ri for f m., and then
turn to the E. for \ m. more, and he will
reach the Jamhukeshwar temple, which
has 3 courts and is very much smaller
than that of Shrirangam, and has now
a neglected, deserted look. The jplan,
however, of the building is more artistic,
and the main corridor and positions
are fine. On the rt. of the entrance is
an upright stone 4 ft. high, with a
long Tamil inscription, which begias
with the words Shri Jambuheshwa/r^
The 1st gopura, which is also the
gateway of entrance, has 6 storeys, not
well defined. The oeiling is painted,
but with flowers of the lotus only, not
with figures. Passing this you arrive
at the Hall of 1000 Pillars, so-called ;
in point of fact, there are on either
side the main avenue 16 rows of 9 pillars
each= 144x2=288 in all. They are
monoliths 18 ft. high, with pediments
slightly carved to the height of 3 ft.,
and they all have the plantain
bracket at top. As you enter tbia
hall yoM \va.\^ ^ t^xel-k^^sJ^J^^ terp^o.
fewZam, OT tauV ^>i\i «. \!5fi^^^ "«v

tliecentve. ^^^^^^"^^ ^•^'^^c^^
, the 1J5 , Bidea xvm^ ^ ootnfiLox cS-^^wo^

196

Route 4. — Yirod to TrichindpaHi.

Sect. n.

Mtiported bj pillari. There are 22 j
btllsni In each storey on the E. Bide, 44
fit oil ; Mill 34 in ecich storey on the
other 2 iddce, malitng in all 3 sides
IHOpillarS' Beyond this is ft second
ffnpnra with T storeys, and a 3rd
fCi^ra, which forms part of the wall
enclosing the Adytum. Thence a fine
corridm' leadi to the Vimdjifth, There
are 1 7 pillars on cither side, of which
13 have hiehly ornamented entabla-
tnreH, and Are are plain. To 1. ore '>

Krilions, that nearest the Vinidnnh
Ting been built by altdj^ of Mnisur
IGOyearaago. There are EereralEhort
hiKrlptfons on the pavement. The
Hai«ilr pavilion has an inner room
with i pillan and an outer room with
e nillmv on each side. On the whole
tUa pagoda is a very Hne one, and
well worth a visit. It ia, no doubt,
older than the Yaishuava temple.

Ihe ^^ioff^.— The K&v^ri, about
m. to the W. of Trichin^palli, and a
little to tlic W. of the W. extremity of
ghrlranitam ialaad, Beparates into 2
branches, which enclose the island, the
le, branch being called the Kolen^ or
Kolidii''i'""itheB.thcK4T6ri. Ithad
long been observed that the N. channel

in prevcnling an excess ot water enter-
iiigthe Kolcriln. The anakatt^ consiBts
of 3 parts, being brolcen bv 2 ielands
70 yds. and 50 yds. wide. The N. part
is 122 yds. long, the centre 350, and
the ti. 282. The total length, therefore,
including the islands, ia 874 yds. It
ia a brick wall 7 ft. high and 6 ft.
thick, capped with stone, and is based
on 2 rowa of wells aunt 9 ft, below
Ihe river's bed. It is defended by an
apron of cut stone from 40 to 21 ft.
broad, the ontcr edge of which rests on
a row of wells, and baa an outer apron
(! to 10 y<la. wide, formed of large rough
stones without cement. A siniUar apron
extends on the upper side of the ajia-
kat^ There are 24 sluices, the largest
being 7 ft 2 in., which help to scour
the bed. A bridge connects the sluices,
having 62 arches of 33 ft. span and G ft.

was deepening and

QjQfQ and more shallow, and lest the

Taniiir Collcctorate should thi

denri*^ °^ "'^'^^ sufficient for irnga-

(j ' (Colonel Arthur Cotton obtained

thp 'nanotio" °f tt^s government to

c^ J!^Ct a dam or analatt, across the ,

i^^^.OD'i finished it in 1836. The

viP^ is fed by the Bhawinl, the

V , a,^^ ^^'^ AmrSvaH streams,

L^ ' ^lescsnd from the Nllgiris and

wtuch <* j„ the middle of June the

awsdr- ^on ,.nuBes the KAv^ri to

».W. lT>*^j ill Jnlj and August it be-

•w'pJI J*** - -v-.-.j jj_s_jt.....

<Wefl »■**,,

, _ J in

The piers are ^ ft. high and 5
thick. Theroadway iseft. 9in. broad.
To prevent the bed of the Kdveri
deepening too much, a flooring was
made in its bed just where the anakatt
commences, to bridge the Kolenip.
To visit this anakatt will take a whole
day. It influences the irrigation of
about 600,000 acres. About 9 m. E. of
Trichindpalli is the Grand Aijakatf, an
ancient work, and below that is the
Lower Aijakntt, Imilt in 1R36, under
iga- 1 the advice of Colonel, now Sir Arthur,
■ ■■ >tton. It supplies the Viranam tank
S.Arkit,aud waters the t'alukahsot
Chedambram and Ma,nirgudi in that
CoUectorato. The task of inspecting

"•■pJI, »**i2jffYityiiverBnddwindlea
^""Befl^'^^jiio in September and
aaJI eif*-^g again in November with
iber, r-i^'lj^oiisoon. After parting with
'6 N.B- *i t> 1 i' acids off a number of
'S -K'olC'^^'I'ich innate Tanjiir, the
sicfie^ toeing called the Venndr,

ref o^^^iJaintofhesea20m. S. of _,....__ „„ ^ _ „„ „,uuu„.

'tbet* ^S^^^ere the Kolcnln diBem-lBndaFBilr'aliut,whercBs this Golden
spot^ JJX,^ anakatt constructed hy\^witlamBci*»Bfti\e. 'nitT£.4ts&Malai
■^ S'^^^^ called the Upper AnalLatt,,\\m is \\ m. ■^. ol ftw, Vsi. Kn.
— — completely Buccessiui utdci tnrai. Vtc ^oienuii Sa toj^scmV

these anakatts would occupy four o.
five daya, and would hardly repay any
one but an engineer.

racjii (7.— Trichindpalli CentralJail
is one of Ihe largest, and certainly one
of the best managed in the Madras
Presidency. It stands vrell on rising
ground abuut 2 m. S. of St. John's
Church, with a hill popularly called the
Golden Rock, about 400 yds. from its
N.E. comer. Orme'a Golden Bock is
not the aame as this, hut is probably
the KAsC Jtfllai hill, which has a
square white building o

Sect. IL

Eovte 5. — Trichindpalli to TanjUr.

197

to visit the jail. It is built on the
radiating principle, with a high build-
ing in the centre where the guard is
posted, and which overlooks the whole
precincts. This jail was built to hold
1100 prisoners, but on Friday, March
the 16th, 1878,there were 1138 within
the walls, and 437 in huts without the
walls, total 1575. It was finished in
1868, and is very clean and well ar-
ranged. There were on the said day
of March, 57 women, 10 boys, 2 girls,
and only 14 prisoners on the sick list,
lu 1878, a boy of 13 was sent here
under a sentence of imprisonment for
life for throwing a child into a well
after robbing it of a ring. He was
transported to the Andamans. In
1870, 20 of the prisoners effected their
escape under the leadership of a noto-
rious desperado. They armed them-
selves with the muskets of the police,
and set off with the intention of hang-
iaig the judge at Tinnevelli, but the
ringleader was shot by a policeman,
and the others were all retaken. There
are 20 solitary cells. Men are taught
to read and write, but not women,
which is to be regretted, as their whole
life is a dismal blank, in which im-
l)rovement is impossible. Marks are
given for good conduct, and prisoners
who behave well are thus raised to be
superintendents of work and convict
warders, and wear a distinctive dress.
They can also obtain a remission of \
of the time they are sentenced to be
imprisoned. Refractory males are
punished by diminished food, in which
case they are not compelled to work,
by solitary confinement and whipping.
Refractory women are put on reduced
diet, or are confined in solitary cells.
Boys are kept in a separate ward.
There is a workshop in each ward.
There are 7 wells within the walls, one
of which has 20 ft. of water, but dur-
ing the late year of drought the water
decreased to 2 ft. It is very clear and
good. The hai'dest work done in this
prison is grinding com and picking
coir, the fibre of the cocoa-nut.

ROUTE 5.

TRICHINAPALLI TO TANJUB, nAgA-
PATNAM (NEGAPATAM), NAGUB
(NAGORE), KiBIKAL, TABAKGAM-
BADI (TBANQUEBAB), KUMBHA-
KONAM, AKD CHILAMBBAM, B£-
TUBNING TO TBICHINXpALLI.
TOTAL, 33G MILES.

Ti'icli indpaUi to TanjUr by the S. I, Rly,
31 milei.

Names of
Stations.

Trains.

Remabkm.

TbichinApai.ij

A.M.

P.M.

(Junction) to

dep. 6.55

1.10

1. Tiniverauibur

7.17

1.32 S. on L

2. Budaliir . . 14

8.7

2.19 S. on r.

3. Taiyur f June.) 103

arr. 8.40

2.55

Pass the

whole way

Total . . .

through a
level well-
watered
plain.

Tanjur in N. lat. lO** 47', B. long.
79** 12' 4", which became the capital
of the Qhola Kings after Uriiir and
Kumbhakonam (see Journal of the
R. A. S.. vol. viii., p. 14, last line), is a
town with 52,175 iiihab., and the capi-
tal of a Collectorate which comprises
the larger portion of the Delta of the
Kdv^ri, and is the most densely popu-
lated and richest in the S. of India.
This province covers 3654 sq. m., and
has 9 t'alukahs and 13 mettahs or sub-
divisions held under permanent settle-
ment, and 5 municipal towns, of which
Tanjiir is one, and Mannargudi with
17,703 Inhab., Mayaveram with 21,165,
Ndgapatnam with 48,525, Kumbha-
konam with 44,444, are the others.
The total pop. of the province is
1,973,731, of whom 102,703 are Mu-
hanmiadans, 66,409 Christians, and
239 Jains. Kice cultivation is so
general, that 27 per cent, of the males
are engaged in it. Of the male pop.
18 per cent, can read, but only 1 per
cent, of the females have received any
instruction.

That \.\ie 'Rk^k^ q1 ^«sv-\^ -^^^
powerfaV eeNet«\ <ie«v\:aTvea» ^^^ ^^
proved \>^ t\ie m^w\3^vi^ ovv 'Ooa v^-^"?

196

JtotUe 4. — Yirod to TrichindpalU,

Sect. II.

supported by pillars. There are 22
pillars in each storey on the E. side, 44
in all ; and 34 in each storey on the
other 2 sides, making in all 3 sides
180 pillars. JBeyond this is a second
gopura with 7 storeys, and a 3rd
gopura, which forms part of the wall
enclosing the Adytum. Thence a fine
corridor leads to the Viminah. There
are 17 pillars on either side, of which
12 have highly ornamented entabla-
tures, and five are plain. To 1. are 5
pavilions, that nearest the Vimdnah
having been built by a RAjA of Maisiir
150 years ago. There are several short
inscriptions on the pavement. The
Maisiir pavilion has an inner room
with 4 pillars and an outer room with
6 pillars on each side. On the whole
this pagoda is a very fine one, and
well worth a visit. It is, no doubt,
older than the Vaishnava temple.
• Ihe Anaka(f8. — The Kdv^ri, about
9 m. to the W. of Trichindpalli, and a
little to the W. of the W. extremity of
Shrirangam island, separates into 2
branches, which enclose the island, the
N. branch being called the Koleriin or
Kolidiin , and the S. the KAv6ri. It had
long been observed that the N. channel
was deepening and the S. becoming
more and more shallow, and lest the
Tanjiir CoUectorate should thus be
deprived of water sufficient for irriga-
tion. Colonel Arthur Cotton obtained
the sanction of the government to
construct a dam or anakatt, across the
Kolenin, and finished it iii 1836. The
K4v6ri is fed by the Bhawdni, the
Noyel, and the AmrAvati streams,
which descend from the Nilgiris and
Maisi!ir. In the middle of June the
S.W. monsoon causes the Kdv^ri to
swell, and in July and August it be-
comes a mighty river and dwindles to a
small stream in September and Oc-
tober, rising again in November with
the N.E. monsoon. After parting with
the Kolenin, it sends off a number of
branches which irrigate Tanjiir, the
chief one being called the VennAr,
and then falls into the sea 20 m. S. of
tAe spot where the Xoienin disem-
boffues. The anakatt constructed by
^J'^^i^^ Jf^caZ/ecf ^e Upper Anakatt,
ma It baa been completely successful

in preventing an excess of waler enter-
ing the Kolenin. The anakatt consists
of 3 parts, being broken by 2 islands
70 yds. and 50 yds. wide. The N. part
is 122 yds. long, the centre 350, and
the S. 282. The total length, therefore,
including the islands, is 874 yds. It
is a brick wall 7 ft. high and 6 ft.
thick, capped with stone, and is based
on 2 rows of wells sunk 9 ft. below
the river's bed. It is defended by an
apron of cut stone from 40 to 21 ft.
broad, the outer edge of which rests on
a row of wells, and has an outer apron
6 to 10 yds. wide, formed of large rough
stones without cement. A similar apron
extends on the upper side of the ana-
katt. There are 24 sluices, the largest
being 7 ft. 2 in., which help to scour
the bed. A bridge connects the sluices,
having 62 arches of 33 ft. span and 6 ft.
rise. The piers are 64 ft. high and 5 ft.
thick. The roadway is 6 ft. 9 in. broad.
To prevent the bed of the KAveri
deepening too much, a flooring was
made in its bed just where the anakatt
commences, to bridge the Koleriin.
To visit this anakatt will take a whole
day. It influences the irrigation of
about 600,000 acres. About 9 m. E. of
Trichindpalli is the Grand Anakatt, an
ancient work, and below that is the
Lower Anakatt, built in 1836, under
the advice of Colonel, now Sir Arthur,
Cotton. It supplies the Vlranam tank
in S. Arkdt, and waters the t'alukahs of
Chedambram and Manargudi in that
CoUectorate. The task of inspecting
these anakatts would occupy four or
five days, and would hardly repay any
one but an engineer.

jHw Jail. — Trichindpalli Central Jail
is one of the largest, and certainly one
of the best managed in the Madras
Presidency. It stands well on rising
ground about 2 m. S. of St. John's
Church, with a hill popularly called the
Golden Rock, about 400 yds. from its
N.E. comer. Orme's Golden Rock is
not the same as this, but is probably
the Kds6 JIalai hill, which has a
square white building on its summit,
and a Fakir's hut, whereas this Golden
■Rock is mafcceBS&Aft. TV\^ K484 Malai
'WU is \\ m. ^. ol IV'Si \"K^. Kxv
! oidex itom Wie ^o^OTasst \s ^Ko;avt^\

SectlL

RoiUe 5. — TrkUnApalli fo Tan^.

to visit the jail. It is built on the
mdiating principle, with a higli build-
iug in the centre where the gnard is
posted, and which overlooks the whole
precincts. This jail was built to hold i
1100 prisoners, but on Friday, March
the 15th, 1878,there were 1138 within ,
the walls, and 437 in huts without the
walls, total 1575. It was firdshed in '
1868, and is very clean and well ar-
ranged. There were on the said day
of March, 57 women. It) boys, 2 girls,
and only 14 prisoners on the Bick list.
In 1878, a boy of 13 was sent here
under a sentence of imprisonment for
life for throwing a child Into a well
after robbing it of a ring. He was
transported to the Aiidamans. In
1870, 20 of the prisoners effected their
escape under the leadership of a noto-
rious desperado. They armed them-
selvcs with the muskets of the police, 1
and sec off with the intention of hang-
ing the judge at TinncTelli, hut the
ringleader was shot by a policeman,
and the others were all retaken. There
are 20 solitary cells. Men are taught
to read and write, but not women,
which is to be regretted, as their whole
life is a dismal blank, in which im-
provement is impoBsibie. Marks are
given for good conduct, and prisoners
who behave well are thus raised to be
superintendents of work and convict
warders, and wear a distinctive drees.
They can also obtain a remission of i
of the time they are sentenced to be
imprisoned. Refractory males are
punished by diminished food, in which
case they are not compelled to work,
by solitary confinement and whipping.
Beftac(«ry women are put on reduced
diet, or are confined in solitary celli^
Boys are kept in a separate ward.
There is a workshop in each ward.
There are 7 wells within the walls, one
of which has 20 ft. of water, but dur-
ing the late year of drought the water
decreased to 2 ft. It is very clear and
good. The hai'dest work done in this
prison is grinding com and picking
eoir, the fibre of the cocoa-nut.

ROUTE 5.

TBICHINAPALLI TO TANJUB, NiOA-
PATNAU (NEOAPATAM), NAQUK
(kAROKE), KJUEAL, TABAHOAU-

bAdi (thanquebab), kumbua-
konau, akd chilavbram, b£-
tubnino to tbichinipauj.

total, 33g miles.

I, Tiruverjuuln5r B\
J. Bmlaliir
S,T.nJur(Juiii

plain.

Ta»jiir in N. lat. 10° 47', B. long.
79° 12' 4", which became the capital
iif the Qhola Kings after Uriiir and
Kumbhakonara (see Journal of the
a. A. 8.. vol, viii., p. 14, last line), is a
lown with 52,175 inhab., and the capi-
tal of a Collcctorate which comprises
the larger portion of the Delta of the
SAviii, and is (he most densely popn-
hited and richest in the B. of India.
This province covers 3654 sq. m., and
has 9 t'alukahs and 13 matlaht or sub-
divisions held under permanent settle-
ment, and 5 municipal towns, of which
TanjAr is one, and Hannargudi with
17,703 inhab., Mayaveram with 21,165,
^dgapa^am with 4S,52G, Euinbha-
konam with 44,444, are the others.
The total pop. of tic province is
1,973,731, of whom 102,703 are Mn-
Ijammadans, 66,409 Christians, and
J39 Jains. Rice cultivation is so
general, that 27 per cent, of the males
are engaged in it. Of the male pop.
18 per cent, can read, but only 1 per
cent, of the females have received any

That Vhft 'B.fc.'ite (ft t«iv\*it -«^
powerta\ B^ftwA cfcftaiivw!. wej.

196

Jtovte 4. — Yirod to TricldndpalU,

Sect. II.

supported by pillars. There are 22
pillars in each storey on the E. side, 44
in all ; and 34 in each storey on the
other 2 sides, making in all 3 sides
180 pillars. JBeyond this is a second
gopura with 7 storeys, and a 3rd
gopura, which forms part of the wall
enclosing the Adytum. Thence a fine
corridor leads to the Vimdnah. There
are 17 pillars on either side, of which
12 have highly ornamented entabla-
tures, and five are plain. To 1. are *>
pavilions, that nearest the Vimdnah
having been built by a Rdjd of Maisiir
150 years ago. There are several short
inscriptions on the pavement. The
Maisifr pavilion has an inner room
with 4 pillars and an outer room with
6 pillars on each side. On the whole
this pagoda is a very fine one, and
well worth a visit. It is, no doubt,
older than the Vaishnava temple.
■ Jhe Analeatfs. — The K4v6ri, about
9 m. to the W. of Trichindpalli, and a
little to the W. of the W. extremity of
Shrirangam island, separates into 2
branches, which enclose the island, the
N. branch being called the Kolerilbi or
Kolidiin, and the S. the KAv6ri. It had
long been observed that the N. channel
was deepening and the S. becoming
more and more shallow, and lest the
Tanjiir CoUectorate should thus be
deprived of water sufficient for irriga-
tion, Colonel Arthur Cotton obtained
the sanction of the government to
construct a dam or anakatt, across the
Kolenin, and finished it in 1836. The
KAv6ri is fed by the Bhawdnl, the
Noyel, and the Amrdvatl streams,
which descend from the Nilgiris and
Maisrir. In the middle of June the
S.W. monsoon causes the Kdv^ri to
swell, and in July and August it be-
comes a mighty river and dwindles to a
small stream in September and Oc-
tober, rising again in November with
the N.E. monsoon. After parting with
the Kolenin, it sends off a number of
branches which irrigate Tanjiir, the
chief one being called the Venndr,
and ^en falls into the sea 20 m. S. of
t/fe spot where the Kolenhi disem-
bogues. The anakatt constructed by
^J'^^u^^ ^(^^Gdtke Upper Anakatt,
«oflf It haa been completely successful

• • •

day. It influences the irrigation of
about 600,000 acres. About 9 m. E. of
Trichindpalli is the Grand Anakatt, an
ancient work, and below that is the
Lower Anakatt, built in 1836, under
I the advice of Colonel, now Sir Arthur,
; Cotton. It supplies the Vlranam tank
in S. Arkat, and waters the t'alukahs of
Chedambram and Mandrgudi in that
CoUectorate. The task of inspecting
these anakatts would occupy four or
five days, and would hardly repay any
one but an engineer.

Tlie Jail. — Trichindpalli Central Jail
is one of the largest, and certainly one
of the best managed in the Madras
Presidency. It stands well on rising
ground about 2 m. S. of St. John's
Church, with a hill popularly called the
Golden Rock, about 400 yds. from its
N.E. comer. Orme's Golden Hock is
not the same as this, but is probably
the Kds6 Jlalai hill, which has a
square white building on its summit,
and a Fakir's hut, whereas this Golden
■Rock is mafcc^eKiVAft. TV^^ K484 Malai
'hill is \\ m. ^. ol ^L^iei \"8CA. kxv
1 oxdex ixom Wi<^ ^osOTftsst \s T^vt^\

Sect. IL

Eottte 5. — Trichindpalli to TanjUr.

197

to visit the jail. It is built on the
radiating principle, with a high build-
ing in the centre where the guard is
posted, and which overlooks the whole
precincts. This jail was buUt to hold
1100 prisoners, but on Friday, March
the 15th, 1878,there were 1138 within
the walls, and 437 in huts without the
walls, total 1575. It was finished in
1868, and is very clean and well ar-
ranged. There were on the said day
of March, 57 women, 10 boys, 2 girls,
and only 14 prisoners on the sick list.
In 1878, a boy of 13 was sent here
under a sentence of imprisonment for
life for throwing a child into a well
after robbing it of a ring. He was
transported to the Andamans. In
1870, 20 of the prisoners effected their
escape under the leadership of a noto-
rious desperado. They armed them-
selves with the muskets of the police,
and set off with the intention of hang-
iaig the judge at Tinnevelli, but the
ringleader was shot by a policeman,
and the others were all retaken. There
are 20 solitary cells. Men are taught
to read and write, but not women,
which is to be regretted, as their whole
life is a dismal blank, in which im-
provement is impossible. Marks are
given for good conduct, and prisoners
who behave well are thus raised to be
superintendents of work and convict
warders, and wear a distinctive dress.
They can also obtain a remission of \
of the time they are sentenced to be
imprisoned. Itefractory males are
punished by diminished food, in which
case they are not compelled to work,
by solitary confinement and whipping.
Itefractory women are put on reduced
diet, or are confined in solitary ceUs.
Boys are kept in a separate ward.
There is a workshop in each ward.
There are 7 wells within the walls, one
of which has 20 ft. of water, but dur-
ing the late year of drought the water
decreased to 2 ft. It is very clear and
good. The hai-dest work done in this
prison is grinding com and picking
coir, the fibre of the cocoa-nut.

ROUTE 5.

TRICHINAPALLI TO TANJuB, nAgA-
PATNAM (NEGAPATAM), NAGUB
(NA60RE), kXrIKAL, TAEANGAM-
BADI (TBANQUEBAB), KUMBHA-
KONAM, AND CHILAMBBAM,^ B£-
TUBNING TO TBICHINXpALLI.
TOTAL, 33G MILES.

Trichindpalli to TanjUr by the S, L Rly.
31 milei.

Names of
Stations.

Trains.

Remarks.

TrichinApaixi

A.M.

P.M.

(Junction) to

dep. 6.65

1.10

1. Tiraverambiir

7.17

l.32'a on L

2. Budaliir . .

8.7

2.19 8. on r.

3. Tanjiir f June.)

103

arr. 8.40

2.55

Pass the
whole way

Total . . .

through a
level well-
watered
plain.

Tanjur in N. lat. 10** 47', B. long.
79* 12' 4", which became the capital
of the Qhola Kings after Uriiir and
Kumbhakonam (see Journal of the
R. A. S.. vol. viii., p. 14, last line), is a
town with 52,175 inhab., and the capi-
tal of a CoUectorate which comprises
the larger portion of the Delta of the
KAv6ri, and is the most densely popu-
lated and richest in the S. of tndia.
This province covers 3654 sq. m., and
has 9 t'alukahs and 13 mottahs or sub-
divisions held under permanent settle-
ment, and 5 municipal towns, of which
Tanjiir is one, and Mannargudi with
17,703 inhab., Mayaveram with 21,165,
Ndgapatnam with 48,525, Kumbha-
konam with 44,444, are the others.
The total pop. of the province is
1,973,731, of whom 102,703 are Mu-
hanmiadans, 66,409 Christians, and
239 Jains. Bice cultivation is so
general, that 27 per cent, of the males
are engaged in it. Of the male pop.
18 per cent, can read, but only 1 per
cent, of the females have received any
instruction.

proved \>^ t\ic Vx^^w^X-vs^ ^^^^ ^^

196

JtotUe 4. — Yirod to Tricldndpalli

Sect. II.

supported by pillars. There are 22
pillars in each storey on the E. side, 44
in all ; and 34 in each storey on the
other 2 sides, making in all 3 sides
180 pillars. JBeyond this is a second
gopura with 7 storeys, and a 3rd
gopura, which forms part of the wall
enclosing the Adytum. Thence a fine
corridor leads to the Vimdnah. There
are 17 pillars on either side, of which
12 have highly ornamented entabla-
tures, and five are plain. To 1. are 5
pavilions, that nearest the VimAnah
having been built by a RdjA of Maisiir
150 years ago. There are several short
inscriptions on the pavement. The
Maisiir pavilion has an inner room
with 4 pillars and an outer room with
6 pillars on each side. On the whole
this pagoda is a very fine one, and
well worth a visit. It is, no doubt,
older than the Vaishnava temple.
■ ^he Anakaffs. — The KAv^ri, about
9 m. to the W. of Trichindpalli, and a
little to the W. of the W. extremity of
Shrirangam island, separates into 2
branches, which enclose the island, the
N. branch being called the Kolerilbi or
Kolidiin, and the S. the K4v6ri. It had
long been observed that the N. channel
was deepening and the S. becoming
more and more shallow, and lest the
Tanjiir Collectorate should thus be
deprived of water sufficient for iniga-
tion. Colonel Arthur Cotton obtained
the sanction of the government to
construct a dam or anakatt, across the
Kolerdn, and finished it iii 1836. The
KAv6ri is fed by the Bhawdni, the
Noyel, and the AmrAvatl streams,
which descend from the Nilgiris and
Maisi!ir. In the middle of June the
S.W. monsoon causes the Kdv^ri to
swell, and in July and August it be-
comes a mighty river and dwindles to a
small stream in September and Oc-
tober, rising again in November with
the N.E. monsoon. After parting with
the Kolenin, it sends off a number of
branches which irrigate Tanjiir, the
chief one being called the Venndr,
und then falls into the sea 20 m. S. of
tAe spot where the Kolerim disem-
bogues. The anakatp constructed by
^J'^^i^^ ^caZ/ecf ^e Upper Anakatt,
ooa It baa been completely successful

in preventing an excess of water enter-
ing the Kolevi^n. The anakatt consists

^ • • •

of 3 parts, being broken by 2 islands
70 yds. and 50 yds. wide. The N. part
is 122 yds. long, the centre 350, and
the S. 282. The total length, therefore,
including the islands, is 874 yds. It
is a brick wall 7 ft. high and 6 ft.
thick, capped with stone, and is based
on 2 rows of wells sunk 9 ft. below
the river's bed. It is defended by an
apron of cut stone from 40 to 21 ft.
broad, the outer edge of which rests on
a row of wells, and has an outer apron
6 to 10 yds. wide, formed of large rough
stones without cement. A similar apron
extends on the upper side of the ana-
katt. There are 24 sluices, the largest
being 7 ft. 2 in., which help to scour
the bed. A bridge connects the sluices,
having 62 arches of 33 ft. span and 6 ft.
rise. The piers are 64 ft. high and 5 ft.
thick. The roadway is 6 ft. 9 in. broad.
To prevent the bed of the Kdveri
deepening too much, a flooring was
made in its bed just where the anakatt
commences, to bridge the Koleriin.
To visit this anakatt will take a whole

• • •

day. It influences the irrigation of
about 600,000 acres. About 9 m. E. of
Trichindpalli is the Grand Anakatt, an
ancient work, and below that is the
I Lower Anakatt, built in 1836, under
the advice of Colonel, now Sir Arthur,
I Cotton. It supplies the Viranam tank
in S. Arkdt, and waters the t'alukahs of
Chedambram and Mandrgudi in that
Collectorate. The task of inspecting
these anakatts would occupy four or
five days, and would hardly repay any
one but an engineer.

I7ie Jail. — Trichindpalli Central Jail
is one of the largest, and certainly one
of the best managed in the Madras
Presidency. It stands well on rising
ground about 2 m. S. of St. John's
Church, with a hill popularly called the
Golden Rock, about 400 yds. from its
N.E. comer. Orme's Golden Kock is
not the same as this, but is probably
the Kdsd JIalai hill, which has a
square white building on its summit,
and a Fair's hut, whereas this Golden
"Rock is mafccessiVAa. TV^^ K^b^ Malai
'hill 18 \\ m. '^. ol IV^ >^. Kxv
' oidex ixom Wi'^ ^o^cnvot \s T^vt^\

Sect IL

Route 5. — TridnndpalU to Tang^.

to riait tie jail. It U built on the
radiating principle, with a high build-
ing in the centre where tbe gaard is
IXJSted, and which orerlCMDks the whole
precincts. Tbie jail was built to hold
1100 priBoners, but on friday, March
the 15th, 1878,there were 1138 within
the walls, and 437 in huta without the
walls, total 1575. It was fiiiiehed h,
1M68, and ia verj clean and well ar-
ranged. There were on the said day
of March, 67 women, lU boys, 2 girls,
and only 14 prisoners on the sick list.
In lg7H, a boj of 13 was sent here
under a sentence of imprisonment for
life for throwing a child into ft well
after robbing it of a ring. He was
transported to the AndamanH. In
1870, 21) of the prisoners effected their
escape under the leadership ot a noto-
rious desperado. They armed them-
selves with the muskets of tlie police,
and set ofi with the intention of hang-
ing the judge at TinaeTelli, but the
ringleader was shot by a policeman,
and the others were all retaken. There
are 20 solitazy cells. Men are taught
to read and write, but not women,
which is to be regretted, as their whole
life is a dismal blank, in which im-
provement is impossible. Uarku are
given for good conduct, and prisoners
who behave well are thus raised to be
superintendents of work and convict
ivardera, and wear a distinctive dresa.
They can also obtain a remission of J
of me time they are sentenced to be
imprisoned. Refractory males are
punished by diminished food, in which
case they are not compelled to work,
by Bolit^y confinement and whipping.
Kefractory women are put on reduced
diet, or are confined in solitary cells.
Boys are kept in a separate ward.
There ia a workshop in each ward.
There are 7 wells within the walls, one
of which has 20 ft. of water, but dur-
ing the late year of drought the water
decreased to 2 ft. It ia very clear and
good. The hardest work done in this
prison Is grinding com and picking
aoir, the fibre of the '

ROUTE 5.
'kichinapalli to tahjub, kIoa-

patsam (negapatam),

(NAGOBE), KAHIKAL, T"
BjIDI (TBAKQUEBABI,
KONAU, AND CHILAMI
TUBNtNG TO TKICI

level waU-
vitcred
plrin.

Ihtijiir in N. lat. 10° 47', E. long.
79° 12" 4", which became the capital
of the phoia Kings after Uridr and
Knmbhakonam {see Journal of the
K. A. S.. vol. viii,, p. 14, last line), ia a
town with I>2,l7a iiihab,, and the capi-
tal of a Collectorate which comprises
the laj^er portion of the Delta of the
K4v6ri, and is the most densely popn-
lated and richest in the S. of India.
This province covers 3664 sq. m., and
has 9 t'alukaha aud 13 mattahi or sob-
liivisions held under permanent settle-
ment, and G municipal towns, of which
Tanj^r is one, and Mannargudi with
17,703 inhab., Mayaveramwith 21,16fi,
Siigapa{nam with 18,625, Kumbha-
konom with 44,444, are the others.
The total pop. of the province is
1,873,731, of whom 102,703 are Mn-
Ijammadans, 6<i,409 Cluistians, and
239 Jains. Rice cultivation is so
general, that 27 per cent, of the males
are engaged in it. Of the male pop.
18 ner cent, can read, but only 1 per
of the females haTe received any

\ That ttie Bi.=iiia cS. Tttsi^ "^^s

196

JtotUe 4. — Yi7vd to Trichindpalli,

Sect. II.

Ihe Anaha^s. — The KAv^ri, about
9 m. to the W. of Trichindpalli, and a
little to the W. of the W. extremity of
Shrirangam island, separates into 2
branches, which enclose the island, the
N. branch being called the Kolerilbi or
Kolidiin , and the S. the Kdv6ri. It had
long been observed that the N. channel
was deepening and the S. becoming
more and more shallow, and lest the
Tanjiir CoUectorate should thus be
deprived of water sufficient for iri-iga-
tion, Colonel Arthur Cotton obtained
the sanction of the government to
construct a dam or anakatt, across the
Kolenin, and finished it in 1836. The
Kdv6ri is fed by the Bhawdni, the
Noyel, and the AmrAvatl streams,
which descend from the Nilgiris and
Maisi!ir. In the middle of June the
S.W. monsoon causes the KAv^ri to
swell, and in July and August it be-
comes a mighty river and dwindles to a
small stream in September and Oc-
tober, rising again in November with
the N.E. monsoon. After parting with
the Kolenin, it sends off a number of
branches which irrigate Tanjiir, the
chief one being called the Venndr,
and then falls into the sea 20 m. S. of
tAe spot where the Kolertm. disem-
bqpies. The anakatp constructed by
JlT-?^^^^ i'-scaZ/ecf ihe Upper Anakatt,
«oflf Jt has been completely successful

in preventing an excess of waler enter-
ing the Koleri'in. The anakatt consists
of 3 parts, being broken by 2 islands
70 yds. and 50 yds. wide. The N. part
is 122 yds. long, the centre 350, and
the S. 282. The total length, therefore,
including the islands, is 874 yds. It
is a brick wall 7 ft. high and 6 ft.
thick, capped with stone, and is based
on 2 rows of wells sunk 9 ft. below
the river's bed. It is defended by an
apron of cut stone from 40 to 21 ft.
broatl, the outer edge of which rests on
a row of wells, and has an outer apron
(y to 10 yds. wide, formed of large rough
stones without cement. A similar ajiron
extends on the upj^er side of the ana-
katt. There are 24 sluices, the largest
being 7 ft. 2 in., which help to scour
the bed. A bridge connects the sluices,
having 62 arches of 33 ft. span and 6 ft.
rise. The piers are 6^ ft. high and 5 ft.
thick. The roadway is 6 ft. 9 in. broad.
To prevent the bed of the KAveri
deepening too much, a flooring was
made in its bed just where the anakatt
commences, to bridge the Kolerun.
To visit this anakatt will take a whole
day. It influences the irrigation of
about 600,000 acres. About 9 m. E. of
Trichindpalli is the Grand Anakatt, an
ancient work, and below that is the
Lower Anakatt, built in 1836, mider
the advice of Colonel, now Sir Arthur,
Cotton. It supplies the Vlranam tank
in S. Arkdt, and waters the t'alukahs of
Chedambram and Mandrgudi in that
CoUectorate. The task of inspecting
these anakatts would occupy four or
five days, and would hardly repay any
one but an engineer.

TJieJail. — Trichindpalli Central Jail
is one of the largest, and certainly one
of the best managed in the Madras
Presidency. It stands well on rising
ground about 2 m. S. of St. John's
Church, with a hill popularly called the
Golden Rock, about 400 yds. from its
N.E. comer. Orme's Golden Rock is
not the same as this, but is probably
the Kds6 Malai hill, which has a
square white building on its summit,
and a Fakir's hut, whereas this Golden
Rock, is iiiafccie«BiVi\e. TV^^ K^b^ Malai
hill is H m. "^. ol ^iJCl^ \"k^. kxv
' oidex ixom Wi^ ^o^OTasst \s ^Ko^vt^

Sect IL JioiUe S.—Trkhindpalli tn Taty^r.

to 711111 the jail. It ie built on the
radiating principle, with a high build-
iug in the centre where the gnard ie
posted, and which overloolts the whole

frednctB. This jail was built to hold
!00 priBonera, but on Friday, March
(he ISth, 1878, there were 1138 within
the walls, and 437 in hats without the
walls, total I5;a. It was finished in
1868, and is very clean and well ar-
ranged. There were ou the said day
of March, 57 women, 10 boys, 2 girla,
end only Ij prisoners on the siclc list.
In 1878, a boy of 13 was sent here
nnder a sentence of imprisonment for
life for throwing a child into a well
after robbiog it of a ring. He was
transported to the Andamans. In
1870, 20 of the prisoners efiected their
escape under the leadership of a noto-
rious desperado. They armed them-
selves with the muskets of the police,
and set off with the intention of hang-
ing the judge at Tinnevelli, but the
ringleader was shot by a policeman,
and the others were all retaken. There
are 30 solitary cells. Men are taught
to read and write, but not women,
which ifl to be regretted, as their whole
life is a dismal blank, in which im-
provement is impossible. Harks sre
given for good conduct, and prisoners
who behave well are thus raised to be
superintendents of work and convict
warders, and wear a diatinctire dress.
They can also obtain a remission of J
of ue time tliey arc sentenced fo be
imprisoned. Refractory males are
punished by diminished food,in which
case they are not compelled to work,
by solit^y confinement and whipping.
Itefractory women are put on lednciS
diet, or arc confined in solitary cells.
Boys are kept in a separate ward,
Tliere is a workshop in each ward.
There are 7 wells within the walls, one
of which has 20 ft. of water, but dur-
ing the late year of drought the water
decreased to 2 ft. It is very clear and
good. The hai'dest work done in this
prison is grinding com and picking
coir, the fibre of *

ROUTE 5.

tbichinapalli to 1
fatnau (seqapatam), kague

(NAGOBB), KiSlKAL, lAHANOAM-

BADI (t&anquebab), KUKBHA-

KONAM, AND CttlLAUBBAlI, BB-

TDBSIKH TO TEICHINiPALU.
TOTAL, 33C MILES.

Stations.

Trailu.

—

(JmwUon) to

lep.B.W

3. TanjDi' (JUDC. '.«!

Tanjir in N, ]»t. 10° 47', E. long.
79° 12' 1", which became the capital
of the (^ola Kings after Uriilr and
Kurabhakonam (see Jonmal of the
R, A. ^.. vol. riii., p. 14, last line), ia a
town with 52,175 iiihab., and the capi-
tal of a Collectorate wUch comprises
the larger portion of the Delta of the
K&v^ri, and is the most densely popu-
lated and richest in the 8. of India.
This province covers 3664 sq. m., and
has 9 t'sluVahs and 13 mottaht or eab-
ilivisions held nnder permanent settle-
ment, and 6 municipal towns, of which
Taiijilr is uuc. and Mannargudi with
17,703 iuhah., Msvaveram with 21,165,
NAgapatnam with 48,625, Kumbho-
konam with. 44,414, are the others.
The total pop. of the province is
1,973,731, of whom 102,703 arc Mn-
l^ammadana, 66,409 Christians, and
239 Jains. Kice cultivation is so
getieial, that 27 per cent, of the males

, are engaged in it. Of the male pop.

I 18 per cent, can read, hut only 1 per

I cent, of the females have received any

I Inatmction.

I That V\ift "B-t^ta lA "^^k^ '^'^

\ proved bj ^■be Vo«it\-e'tv«^ ^^ "^ ^^"^

196

JtotUe 4. — Yirod to Tricldndpallu

Sect. II.

supported by pillars. There are 22 1
pillars in each storey on the E. side, 44
in all ; and 34 in each storey on the
other 2 sides, making in all 3 sides
180 pillars. JBeyond this is a second
gopura with 7 storeys, and a 3rd
gopnra, which forms part of the wall
enclosing the Adytum. Thence a fine
corridor leads to the Yimdnah. There
are 17 pillars on either side, of which
12 have highly ornamented entabla-
tures, and five are plain. To 1. are 5
pavilions, that nearest the Vimdnah
having been built by a Rdj4 of Maisiir
160 years ago. There are several short
inscriptions on the pavement. The
Maisih: pavilion has an inner room
with 4 pillars and an outer room with
6 pillars on each side. On the whole
this pagoda is a very fine one, and
well worth a visit. It is, no doubt,
older than the Vaishnava temple.

^he Analeaffs. — The Kdv^ri, about
9 m. to the W. of Trichindpalli, and a
little to the W. of the W. extremity of
Shrirangam island, separates into 2
branches, which enclose the island, the
N. branch being called the Kolenin or
Kolidiin , and the S. the K4v6ri. It had
long been observed that the N. channel
was deepening and the S. becoming
more and more shallow, and lest the
Tanjiir CoUectorate should thus be
deprived of water sufficient for irriga-
tion, Colonel Arthur Cotton obtained
the sanction of the government to
construct a dam or anakatt, across the
Kolenin, and finished it iii 1836. The
Kdv6ri is fed by the Bhawdnl, the
Noyel, and the Amrdvati streams,
which descend from the Nilgiris and
Maisrir. In the middle of June the
S.W. monsoon causes the Kdv^ri to
swell, and in July and August it be-
comes a mighty river and dwindles to a
small stream in. September and Oc-
tober, rising again in November with
the N.E. monsoon. After parting with
the Kolenin, it sends off a number of
branches which irrigate Tanjiir, the
chief one being called the VennAr,
and then falls into the sea 20 m. S. of
tAe spot where the Xoienin disem-
bogues. The anakatt constructed by
JlT'?^u^^ ^^^^Gdthe Upper Anakatt,
«oflf Jt has been completely successful

in preventing an excess of waler enter-
inff the Kolenin. The anakatt consists
of 3 parts, being broken by 2 islands
70 yds. and 50 yds. wide. The N. part
is 122 yds. long, the centre 350, and
the S. 282. The total length, therefore,
including the islands, is 874 yds. It
is a brick wall 7 ft. high and 6 ft.
thick, capped with stone, and is based
on 2 rows of wells sunk 9 ft. below
the river's bed. It is defended by an
apron of cut stone from 40 to 21 ft.
broad, the outer edge of which rests on
a row of wells, and has an outer apron
(> to 10 yds. wide, formed of large rough
stones without cement. A similar apron
extends on the ui)per side of the ana-
katt. There are 24 sluices, the largest
being 7 ft. 2 in., which help to scour
the bed. A bridge connects the sluices,
having 62 arches of 33 ft. span and 6 ft.
rise. The piers are 64 ft. high and 5 ft.
thick. The roadway is 6 ft. 9 in. broad.
To prevent the bed of the KAveri
deepening too much, a flooring was
made in its bed just where the anakatt
commences, to bridge the Kolenin.
To visit this anakatt will take a whole
day. It influences the irrigation of
about 600,000 acres. About 9 m. E. of
TrichinApalli is the Grand Anakatt, an
ancient work, and below that is the
Lower Anakatt, built in 1836, under
the advice of Colonel, now Sir Arthur,
Cotton. It supplies the Vlranam tank
in S. Arkdt, and waters the t'alukahs of
Chedambram and Mandrgudi in that
CoUectorate. The task of inspecting
these anakatts would occupy four or
five days, and would hardly repay any
one but an engineer.

Tlie Jail. — Trichindpalli Central Jail
is one of the largest, and certainly one
of the best managed in the Madras
Presidency. It stands well on rising
ground about 2 m. S. of St. John's
Church, with a hill popularly called the
Golden Rock, about 400 yds. from its
N.E. comer. Orme's Golden liock is
not the same as this, but is probably
the Kdse JIalai hill, which has a
square white building on its summit,
and a Fair's hut, whereas this Golden
■Rock \B maccessiVAa. T\\ft K^b^ Malai
hill is \\ m. ^. oi iVe^ \"8CA. Kxv
' order ixom Wie ^o^envQi Ss ^o^P^vt^^

Xovte 6. — TriddndpeUli to Tatyltr.

3 visit the jail. It ii

built c

the

e where the gnard
posted, and which overlooks the whole
]>reciiicts. This jail was bnilt to hold
1 100 prisonerB, but on Fridaj, March
the lStJi,1878,there werelI3H wiihin
the walla, and 43T in huts witboat (he
walls, total 1576. It was finished in
1868, and is very clean and well ar-
ranged. There were on the said day
of March, 57 women, 10 boys, 2 girls,
and only 11 prisoners on the sick list.
In 1S7H, a boy of 13 was sent here
under a sentence of imprison meut for
life for throwing a child into a well
after robbing it of a ring. He was
transported to the Audamana. In
1870, 20 of the prisoners effected their
escape under the leadership of a noto-
rious desperado. They armed them-
selves with the miakets of the police,
und set oS with the intention of hang-
ing the judge at Tinnevelli, but the
ringleader was shot by a policeman,
and the others were all retaken. There
are 20 solitary cells. Men are taught
to read ajid write, but not women,
which is to be regretted, as their whole
life is a dismal blank, in which im-
prorement is impotable. Harks are
given for good conduct, and prisoners
who behave well are thus raised to be
superintendents of work and convict
warders, and wear a distinctive dress.
They can also obtain a remission of J
of the time they are sentenced to be
imprisoned. Refractory males are
punished by diminished food, in which
case they are not compelled to work,
by solitiy coutinemeat and whipping.
Kefractory women are put on redncS
diet, or are confined in solitary cells.
Boys are kept in a separate ward.
There is a workshop in each ward.
There are 7 wells within the walls, one
of which has 20 ft. of water, but dur-
ing the late year of drought the water
decreased to 2 ft. It is very clear and
good. The haidest work done in this
prison is grinding com and picking
eair, the fibre of the cocoa-nut.

ROUTE 5.

tbichikapalli to tanjIjb, kiIoa-

PATNAM (negapatam), nagur

(NAOOBE), kIbIEAL, TARAnaAH-

bXdi (t&amquebab), eumbha-
konam, and chilambbah, sb-
TO tbicuihXpalu.

Z UILES.

Names oC

T»in».

RurjkBKB.

Tricr1«Apai,li

3. Taojlir (Jiuc.) 10]
Totil . . . sT

A.«,

aep-«.55

is:

T/iHJiir in N. lat. 10° 47', B. long.
79° 12' 4", which became the capital
of the Ohola Kings after Uiiiir and
Kambhakonnm (see Jonrnal ol the
K. A. S.. vol. viii., p. 14, last line), Is a
town with 52,175 iuhab., and the capi-
tal of a DoUcctorate wUch comprises
the la:^r portion of the Delta of the
lUv^ri, and is the moat densehr popn-
lated and richest in the S. of India.
This province covers 3GG4 sq. m., and
has 9 t'alulfahs and 13 mottaht or enb-
divisions held under permanent settle-
ment, and S municipal towns, of which
TanjAr is one. and Mannargudi with
17,703 inhab.,Mayaveram with 21,106,
Miigapatnnm with 4S,G25, Kumbha>
konam with 44,444, are the otheis.
The total pop. of the proTince is
1,973,731, of whom 102,703 are Mn-
hsmmadans, (lli,409 Christians, and
239 Jaiiia. Rice cultivation is so
general, that 27 per cent, of the males
are engaged in it. Of the male pop.
18 per cent, can read, hut only 1 per
cent, of the females have received any

powerful Be\ft'ni. cra,\'ca.Tr«». ^.*«ii^

]96

Kovte 4. — Yi7vd to TrichindpalU.

Sect. II.

supported by pillars. There are 22
pillars in each storey on the E. side, 44
in all ; and 34 in each storey on the
other 2 sides, making in all 3 sides
180 pillars. Beyond this is a second
gopura with 7 storeys, and a 3rd
gopura, which forms part of the wall
enclosing the Adytum. Thence a fine
corridor leads to the Vimdnah. There
are 17 pillars on either side, of which
12 have highly ornamented entabla-
tures, and five are plain. To 1. are 5
pavilions, that nearest the Vimdnah
having been built by aHdjd of Maisur
150 years ago. There are several short
inscriptions on the pavement. The
Maisi^ pavilion has an inner room
with 4 pillars and an outer room with
6 pillars on each side. On the whole
this pagoda is a very fine one, and
well worth a visit. It is, no doubt,
older than the Yaishnava temple.
• Ihe Anakaffg. — The Kdv^ri, about
9 m. to the W. of Trichindpalli, and a
little to the W. of the W. extremity of
Shrirangam island, separates into 2
branches, which enclose the island, the
N. branch being called the Koleriin or
Kolidiin, and the S. the Kdv6ri. It had
long been observed that the N. channel
was deepening and the S. becoming
more and more shallow, and lest the
Tanjiir Collectorate should thus be
deprived of water sufficient for irriga- j
tion, Colonel Arthur Cotton obtained |
the sanction of the government to
construct a dam or anaJkatt, across the
Kolenin, and finished it in 1836. The
Kdv6ri is fed by the Bhawdni, the
Noyel, and the Amrdvatl streams,
which descend from the Nllgiris and
Maisilir. In the middle of June the
S.W. monsoon causes the Kdv^ri to
swell, and in July and August it be-
comes a mighty river and dwindles to a
small stream in September and Oc-
tober, rising again in November with
the N.E. monsoon. After parting with
the Kolenin, it sends off a number of
branches which irrigate Tanjiir, the
chief one being called the Venndr,
and then falls into the sea 20 m. S. of
^e spot where the XoJenin disem-
boffuea. The anakatt constructed by
J^'-?^/^^ -wcaZ/ed the Upper Anakatt,
^oa It baa been completely successful

in preventing an excess of water enter-
ing the Koleriin. The anakatt consists

o • • •

• • •

day. It influences the irrigation of
about 600,000 acres. About 9 m. E. of
Trichindpalli is the Grand Anakatt, an
ancient work, and below that is the
Lower Anakatt, built in 1836, under
the advice of Colonel, now Sir Arthur,
Cotton. It supplies the Vlranam tank
in S. Arkdt, and waters the t'alukahs of
Chedambram and Mandrgudi in that
Collectorate. The task of inspecting
these anakatts would occupy four or
five days, and would hai'dly repay any
one but an engineer.

Hie Jail. — TrichindpalU Central Jail
is one of the largest, and certainly one
of the best managed in the Madras
Presidency. It stands well on rising
ground about 2 m. S. of St. John's
Church, with a hill popularly called the
Golden Rock, about 400 yds. from its
N.E. comer. Orme's Golden Rock is
not the same as this, but is probably
the Kds6 Malai hill, which has a
square white building on its summit,
and a FaJ^ir's hut, whereas this Golden
Rock is majccemHe, The Kds6 Malai
hill is \\ m. ^. ol ^iJciei \a:-^. Ktv
' order liom Wie ^aNemcst Ss Tfiw^vivt^^

Sect II.

Route 5. — TrkkindpalH to TatyHr.

to TMt the jail. It is built on the
radiatiDg principle, with & high build-
ing in the centre where the guard is
posted, and which overloolta the whole
precincts. This jail was built to bold
1100 prisoners, but on Fridaj. March
the 15th, 1878, there were 1138 withm
tlie walls, and *37 in huts without (he
walls, total 1S7&. It was Unishcd in
1868, and is veiy clean and well ar-
ranged. There were on the said day
of March, 67 women, 10 boys, 2 girls,
and only 11 prisoneis on the sick list.
In 1878, a boy of 13 was sent here
under a, sentence of imprieonmeut for
life for throwing a child into a well
after robbing it of a ring. Ho was
transported to the Andamans, In
1870, 20 of the prisoners effected Iheir
escape under the leadership of a noto-
rious desperado. They armed them-
selves with the muskets of the ])olice, ',
aiid set off with the intention of hang- (
iiig the judge at TinnevelU, but the
ringleader was shot by a, policeman,
and the others were all retaken. There
are 20 solitary cells. Men are taught
to read and write, but not women,
which is to be ret^tted, as their whole
life is a dismal blank, in which im-
provement is impORSibie. Marks are
given for good conduct, and prisoners
wbo behave well are thus raised (o he
superintendents of work and convict
warders, and wear a distinctive dress.
Thej can also obtain a remission of i
of me time they arc scntenceil to be
imprisoned. Refractory males are
punished by diminished food, in which
case they are not compelled to work,
by aoht^y confinement and whipping.
Kefraotory women are put on lednced
diet, or are conHned in solitary cells.
Boys are kept in a separate ward.
There is a workshop in each ward.
There are 7 wells witbin the walls, one
of which has 20 ft. of water, but dur-
ing the late year of drought the water
decreased to 2 ft It ia very clear and
good. The haidest work done in this
prison is grinding com and picking
coir, the fibre of the cocoa-nut.

ROUTE 5.

jeichinapalu to TANJUE, ViQA-

PATNAM (SEGAPATAM), UAQuB

(KAOOBE), EJSIKAL, TARANQAM-

bAdi (tranquebab), KiniBUA-

KOKAM, AMD CmLAUBBAM, BE-
TUKSINO TO TEICHINiPAm.

JhHjwr in N. lat. 10= 47', B. toig.
79° 12' 4", which became the capital
of the Qhola Kings after Uriilr and
Kumbhakonam (see Journal of the
K. A. S.. vol. viii., p. H, last line). Is a
rown with 1)2,175 inhab., and the capi'
tal of a CoUectoratc which comprises
the lai^r portion of the Delta of the
KAviri, and is the most densely popu-
lated and richest in the S. of India.
This province covers 3654 sq. m., and
kas 9 t'alii^ahs and 13 mottaht or Bob-
divisions held under permanent settle-
ment, and S municipal towns, of which
Tanjflr is one. and Mannar^dl with
17.703 inhab., Mayavcram with 21,165,
^fiigapatnam with 48,G25, Kumbhn-
konom with 44,444, are the otheis.
The total pop. of the province is
1,973,731, of whom 102,703 are Mn-
l^ammadans, 66,409 Christians, and
i39 Jains. Bice cultivation is so
general, that 27 per cent, of the males
lire engaged in it. Of the male pop,
18 per cent, can read, but only 1 per
of the females have received any

That V\ie ^^\(i6 lA ■\.«k^ ^«»

198

fioiUe 5. — Trichind'palli to TanjUr,

Sect. II.

Pagoda ; but the history of the place
becomes more interesting after its
conquest by ShAhjl, the celebrated
Mardtha leader, and the father of the
still more famous Sivaji. Grant Duff
(vol. i., p. 199) states that all the
Mardtha MSS. agree, that besides the
Fort of Ami and Porto Novo, Shahji
conquered Tanjiir, and that 'All 'Adil
Shdh, in whose service he was, did not
interfere with his acquisitions.

That famous Mardtha chieftain had

•

three sons, of whom the eldest, Sam-
bhajl, was killed on service in the
S. of India. The second, Sivaji, in
1664, laid the foundation of the
Mard^ha empire. The third, Ekoji or
Venkajl, is said by Wilks and otiiers
to have conquered Tanjiir ; but, ac-
cording to the Mardtha accounts, as
stated by Grant Duff, he merely suc-
ceeded his father, Shdhji, in that pro-
vince. As Shdhjl is known to have
taken Porto Novo in 1661 , it is probable
that Tanjiir fell into his power about
the same time. We know, indeed, that
he went as second in command of the
forces of the Muliammadan king of
Bijdpur when Ran Dulha Khdn, the
general of that monarch, invaded the
Kamdtik in 1638, and that he was left
as governor of the conquered provinces,
residing for some time at Bengaliir,
and afterwards at Eoldr and Bdlapiir.
We may suppose that he did but exact
tribute of the Ndik of Tanjiir, and that
his son Ekojl, the Ankoji of Scott, and
the Venkajl of Grant Duff, completed
what his father had begun. This he is
said to have done on the occasion of a
war between the chiefs of Tanjiir and
Madura, when he was sent by Shdhjl
to aid the former. After repulsing the
Madura forces, Ekoji fixed a quarrel
upon the Tanjiir chief with reference
to his remuneration, and, entering the
fort with 100 horsemen as if for a con-
ference, slew the Rdjd and usurped
the government. Ekpjl left three sons,
Shahji, Sharfoji, and Tukojl, who suc-
ceeded to the i^jdship in succession.
These brothers all left children, and,
aifter several irregular successions, one
of tbezn, Sabuji, being dethrone! in
favour of bis cousin, Prntdp Sing, came
Jn 7/ 7/? to Fort St. mvid md besought

the English to assist him. There can
be no doubt that the British govern-
ment had no right to interfere ; but,
lured by the promise of a large sum
of money and the cession of Devikota,
a fort at the mouth of the Kolenin
r^ they undertook to reinstate the
Tanjiirine. Accordingly a force of 430
Europeans and 1000 Sipdhls, with 4
field pieces and 4 mortars, marched
fi'om Fort St. David, and on the 13th
of April encamped on the bank of the
r. Valar. Here they were overtaken
by the terrible hurricane which has
already been described (under Giidaliir).
After an ineffectual bombardment of
Devikota and the loss of 400 of their
camp followers, the force made a pre-
cipitate retreat to Fort St. David,

In spite of this failure another ex-
pedition was inmiediately undertaken,
under Major Lawrence, who was sent
by sea with all the Company's available
troops, amounting to 800 Europeans
and 1500 Sipdhis,to besiege Devikota.
The fort was 1 m. in circumference,
with 6 imequal sides, the walls being
18 ft. high, built of brick, and flanked
by projecting towers, some circular
and some square. The English, with
four 24-pounders, made a practicable
breach across the river, which they
crossed on a raft, not without loss.
The storming party of 34 Europeans
and 700 Sipdhis was led by Clive, then
a lieutenant, who advanced briskly
with the Europeans, but the Sipdhis
failed to supi)ort him. Their rear
being thus left unguarded, the little
company of English were charged by
a body of Tanjiirine horse, and 26 out
of the 34 were killed. Clive narrowly
escaped being cut down, and ran back
to the Sipdhis. Lawrence then ad-
vanced with his whole force, and
effected an entrance into the fort,
which was evacuated by the enemy.
After some further unimportant opera-
tions, the Governor of Fort St. David
concluded a treaty with Pratdp Sing,
the Rdjd of Tanjiir. by which the
English acquired Devik6ta, with terri-
tory enough to produce a yearly revenue
ot 31,000 T8., ».t tVkft aaxnft time that the
expenses oi l\ve 's^twc 'sfjct^ leVcftW^^vi^i
* to them, awd a YC\mo\\ qI ^v^Vs \^, '5>.

Sect. II.

MmUe 5. — Tanjiir,

199

year was settled on their prot^g^,
SahujI.

At the end of the same year Tanjiir
was besieged by the French and their
aUy, ChandA SAhib, Niiwdb of the
KamAtik. The RAjA got rid of his
assailants by agreeing to pay 7,000,000
rs. to the Niiwdb, and 200,000 rs. to
the French, besides ceding to them the
port of Kdrikal and 81 villages. The
latter of these sums, and some portion
of the former, were actually delivered
over, when a rumour of the approach
of NAsir jang's army from Golkonda
induced the besiegers to retreat. On
the 18th of July, 1758, Tanjiir was
again besieged by the French, under
Lally, who raised the siege on the 10th
of August, and was much harassed by
the Tanjiirines in his retreat. In 1771
the RAjA of Tanjiir incurred the dis-
pleasure of the British, in consequence
of an attack made by him on the chief
of RdmnM, or, as he is generally called,
the Marawar PolygAr, and who was
maintained by the English to be a
feudatory of their ally, the NiiwAb of
the KarnAtik. On the 23rd of Sep-
tember of that year the English ap-
peared before Tanjiir, and on the 27th
of October a practicable breach was
reported. Before the assault, however,
the NiiwAb concluded a peace with the
RAjd, on condition of his paying 30^
lakhs of rs., and restoring all the terri-
tory he had taken from the Marawar
chief. But, notwithstanding this
treaty, the Niiwdb was secretly desirous
of procuring the complete subjugation
of Tanjiir to himself by means of his
English allies. In 1773 he again in-
stigated them to advance against the
unfortunate RAjA, and on the ICth of
September, after nearly a month's
siege, the English troops carried the
fort and made prisoners of the
R4jA and his family, who, together
with the whole province, were handed
over to the NiiwAb.

But the Court of Directors disap-
proved of this unjust war, and directed
the RAjA to be reinstated, on condi-
tion of his receiving a garrison of the
Company's troops into the fort, pro-
viding lands for their support, paying
tribute to the Nilw^h, and f.u-uishing

him with such troops as, backed by
the Company's authority, he might
demand. It was added that he shoold
contract no alliances with foreign
powers, without the approbation of
the English. These terms were acted
upon, but such disputes arose in the
council at Fort St. David, pending
their execution, that the Governor, Lord
Pigot, was arrested by command of
his own council, and dSed in confine-
ment. In 1786 died the RdjA Tulsajl,
son and successor of Pratdp Sing above-
mentioned, after adopting a boy nam^
Sharfojl, to the exclusion of his own
half-brother, Amar Sing. The adop-
tion, however, was declared by the
English illegal, and Amar Sing was
sufEered to reign till 1798, when Sharfojl
was pronounced legally adopted ; and
on the 25th of October, 1798, a treaty
was concluded with him by the Com-
pany, according to which he resigned
all powers of government to the
English, retaining the 2 forts of Tanjiir
(where alone he could exercise sove-
reign power), and sundry palaces,
together with an annual revenue of
350,000 rs., and ^ of the remainder of
the whole net revenue of the country,
amounting to 700,000 rs. more, asw^
as the Danish tribute from Tranquebdr,
about 5,000 rs. Sharfojl was educated
at Madras, and afterwards by the mis-
sionary Schwarz, to whom he was
sincerely attached. Indeed, the funeral
of Schwarz was delayed in order that
the RAjA might gaze on his face once
more ere the coffin was closed. At
the sight of ,the lifeless form of his
guardian, the Prince was painfully
agitated. He bedewed the corpse witii
tears, covered it with a cloth of gold,
and, in spite of the defilement (accord-
ing to Hindii belief), accompanied it
to the grave. He was brought up
among Christians, yet he ever re-
mained a Hindii in religion, and a
munificent patron of BrAhmans. He
was an accomplished musician and
linguist, reading daily the English
newspapers and light literature, and
in the management of his revenue ha
displayed «\\ >i)afc \^^QL^'i\^R.^^\^««s«»i&iG^^
and exactaieBft oi XJc^a T£i.«^ ^jwijvss^os-

200

Eoute 5. — Trichindpalli to TanjUr.

Sect. II

Lord Valentia speaks with so mach
praise in 1804, and Heber in 1826.
He died in 1832, and was succeeded
by his son Sivaji, who died in 1853,
when the country having been ab-eady
appropriated by the E. I. C. , all the
property also of this once powerful
family was so completely confiscated
that Sivaji's daughter, the present Prin-
cess of Tanjiir, was left in extreme
penury. She still inhabits the palace
of her ancestors, but lives the life of
' a recluse without any of the luxuries
or even comforts befitting her rank,
though in all respects deserving of
them.

. The travellers' h, at Tanjiir is con-
veniently situated a little to the S. of
the Little Fort, in which is the Great
Pagoda, which with the palace of the
B&J4 in the Great Fort, and Schwartz's
Church, are the sights of Tanjiir. The
two Forts of Tanjiir are so connected
that they may be almost regarded as
one. The smaller one lies to the S.
of the other, and near its S. wall is
the Great Pagoda. On this side the
French made their attack in August,
1768, under M. Lally, as did the Eng-
lish in 1771. On the W. is a tank
about 400 yds. square. On the N. the
smaller fort joins the larger, being
itself 660 yds. in length from the outer
bank of the ditch at the S. angle to
the point of junction of the forts.
From this point to the N. bank of its
ditch the larger fort is 1240 yds. long,
and about the same broad, from E. to
W., being circular ; whereas the smaller
fort is a parallelogram. The walls of
both forts are built of large stones ;
on the comers of the ramparts are
cavaliers ; the ditch varies from 40 to
20 yds. in breadth, and is from 20 to
30 ft. deep. It is cut out of the solid
rock.

The Great Pagoda.-^kt p. 343 of
Mr. Fergusson's '* History of Architec-
ture" will be found a plan of this tem-
ple, and a valuable account of it. The
following account is from notes made
on personally visiting the building
with Dr, Bumell, the celebrated
Orientalist, and from a plan given to
tlie author by him. The temple is
caUed J>^^a jSxml, which signifies

" Great Temple." The buildmg stands
in the lesser fort at the W., nearly due
E. and W., the entrance being on the
eastern side. To enter you pass under
a gopura, the base of which, on the
eastern side, which is the larger of the
two, is 58 ft. fi'om E. to W., and 42 ft.
from N. to S., with a passage between
the two bases 21 ft. broad and 58 ft.
long. Then follow a passage 170 ft.
long, and a second gopura of smaller
dimensions. It is very difficult to
count the storeys of the gopuras, as
they are not well defined ; but there
appears to be 6 in the outer gopura
and 4 in the inner, and their height
may be reckoned at about 90 ond 60 ft.
There is a long inscription in .Tamil
characters of the 4th cent, on either
side of the passage through the 2nd
Gopura, After this the outer en-
closure of the Pagoda is entered, which
is 415 ft. from N. to S., and 800 ft.
from E. to W. Immediately inside
this enclosure after passing the 2nd
Gopura are 2 slabs let into the pave-
ment with Mardtha inscriptions, re-
cording repairs to the temple, with the
dates Shaka 1723 = 1801 A.D., on the
rt. hand slab, and Shaka 1797 on the
1. hand slab, ^with an English date,
December, 1875. On the 1. hand is a
well, and along the whole length of
the S. wall is a strip of garden about
51 ft. broad with 3 wells in it, and at
the W. end 108 lingams. On the rt.
is the YajasdZa, a place where sacri-
fices are offered, and the Sabhdpati
Kovil or shrine of Shiva, as the pre-
siding god of an assembly. This
building is 56 ft. long from N. to S.,
and 36 ft. from E. to W. Almost
exactly in a line with the W. wall of
this shrine, but 60 ft. to the S. of it is
the E. wall of the inner enclosure, and
the entrance into it by steps. The
breadth of this at the steps from N.
to S. is 113 ft., and its depth about
90 ft. from E. to W. There are 2
Balipirams or altars close to the E.
wall, one inside and one outside, and
at about 40 ft. to the W. of this E.
wall is a Mandapam or pavilion 102 ft.
from E. to W., and about 48 ft. from

N. to S., Mi^ ^^ iX..\i\^, C«\^T«i% ^

Sect II, Route 5. — Tanjllr : Tlie Great Pagoda,

201

monolith 12 ft. 10 in. high (see Dr.
Bumell's Great Temple of Tanjiir, p. 4,
note), and 16 ft. long. This vdhana
or vehicle of Shiva is supposed to re-
present the roaring thunder-cloud.
W. of this pavilion is the Xqdi
Maram in the front row of a series of
pillars, of which the first 3 rows are
of 6 pillars each, and the next 6 of 6
each. You then ascend 17 steps and
enter a portico supported by 3 rows of
4 pillars each, which leads to a hall
75 ft. from N. to S., and 70 ft. from
E. to W., inside measurement, which
again leads to a second hall, also 75
ft. from N. to S., and 65 ft. from
E. to W., or reckoniug the partition
wall the 2 halls are about 1145 ft. from
E. to W. A passage is then crossed
90 ft. long from N. to S., and 20 ft.
broad from E. to W., approached on
the N. and S. by flights of steps. In
the centre of the W. wall of this pas-
sage is the entrance to the square
adytum, which is 96 ft. 3 in. from N.
to S., and about 90 ft. from E. to W.
Within this is a second enclosure 56 ft.
from N. to S., and 54 ft. from E. to
W., and over the whole is superim-
posed the vast tower of the Vimdnah,
200 ft. high including the Shikr or
spiked ornament, which is very short,
and not more than 10 ft. high. In the
centre of the inner enclosure is a huge
black stone on which is placed the
Lingam. A little to the W. of the
centre of the S. wall of the outer en-
closure is an image of Shiva facing
to the S. On the N.E. of the Great
Tower and close to it is the Chandi-
kasan Kovil, or shrine of the god, who
reports to the chief god the arrival of
worshippers. Beyond this at the N.W.
comer of the outer enclosure is the
Subrahmanya Kovil, Shrine of K^ti-
keya, the son of Shiva and deity of
wax, who is called Subrahmanya (from
8u good, brahman a Brdhman) because
he is so good to Brdhmans and their
especial protector.

There is a picture of this wonderful

shrine at p. 345 of Mr. Fergusson's

" History of Indian Architecture," and

he says of it, that it "is as exquisite a

piece of decorative architecture as is to

jbe foundin the S. of India, and though

small, almost divides our admiration
with the temple itself." This shrine is
sometimes called the Skanda temple,
from Skanda, another name of Edrtti-
keya. It consists of a tower 55 ft.
high, raised on a base 45 ft. sq.,
adorned with pillars and pilasters,
which ornament is continued along a
corridor 50 ft. long, which communi-
cates with a second building 50 ft. sq.
to the E. The tower of the shrine has
above the base 5 rows of figures.
Towards the E. end of the corridor
there is a flight of steps on the N. side
leading into the corridor, and one on
the S. side descending from it. The
dwdiyAU at the doors here are pariicu- •
larly to be remarked, for whereas the
grand temple and the shrines anterior
to it are all built of granite, these
dwdrp&ls are of syenite, which takes a
finer polish than granite, and these
statues are wonderfully bright. The*
base of the grand temple, «>., the
Yimdnah and halls leading to it, is
covered with inscriptions in the old
Tamil of the 11th century, which Dr.
Bumell with wonderful learning and
labour has deciphered. This writing
enumerates grants made to the temple
by Vira Chola, who reigned from 1064
to 1114 ik.D., and was one of the great>
est Hindi!i monarchs that ever lived.
To the left of the S. flight of steps by
which access is gained to the passage
immediately adjoining the Yimdnah
the inscription in the recess mentions
the conquest of Bengdl and N. India.
The pyramidal tower over the Yi-
mdnah has evidently often been re-
paired in its upper part, where the
images of gods and demons with which
it is covered are now only of cement.
At the place where the figures begin
are some curious fan-shaped orna-
ments, which are perhaps, intended to
represent peacocks' tails. This tower
from its vast height and bulk cannot
but make a great impression on the
spectator. It is only 48 ft. lower than
the Kutb Mindr at Dihli and vastly
more bulky. It is exceedingly diffi-
cult to count tlift «,\Qte^^^^& *<iciK^ «sft.
not weW de&iife^. ULt.^^x^gassRK^^w^^
thexe are \^, auei o\>aet^ Vk^^ ;^?^
16, y?\iich. >NOu\^ cOTc^«^^^ "^

202

ItotUe 5. — Trichindpalli to Tanj'dr.

Sect. II.

height if it be 200 ft. The N. Gopura
of the great Shiva temple at Bijdnagar
is 133 ft. 5 in. to the top of the 11th
storey, above which it is impossible to
ascend, which would give an average
of 12 ft. to a storey, and this would
make a IG-storeyed temple 192 ft.
high exclusive of the Shikr.

At the S.W. end of the outer en-
closure, opposite to the Subrahmanya
shrine, is one to Ganesh, the other son
of Shiva, which is probably -very
modem. It is called, in Tamil, Pillaiy ar
Kovil, and is 60 ft. long from -E. to
W., and 35 ft. broad from N. to S.
where broadest, that is at the E. ex-
tremity. There is a Mardtha inscrip-
tion on the pediment on its W. face,
with the date 1720 Shaka=:1798 A.D.
Dr. Bumell considers the Subrahmanya
temple to be not ol4er than 350
years at most. Its beautiful carving
seems to be in imitation of wood.
Before leaving that shrine descend the
steps facing the N. side of the Vi-
.m^ah, and carry your eye to the left-
hand peacock's tail, and you will ob-
serve in the centre of the line of figures
that follows the unmistakable bust of
a European with a around hat.. The
face is that of a chubby, self-satisfied
John Bull, and the Indians say it was
put there by the builder of the temple,
as a practical prophecy that the Eng-
lish would come and take the coun-
try. It has, however, no doubt been
added at some time when the temple
has been repaired, and is no proof
that the great tower itself is modem.
On the contrary, the inscriptions show
that that dates from the 11th century.
Not far from the steps by which you
descend from the Subrahmanya shrine
is a sxpall temple to Durgd, Shiva's wife,
and on the wall of the great temple
opposite this, the gigantic inscription
begins which Dr. Bumell was the first
to read, and there it is easy to make
out the word Tanjiir, which occurs
not far from the commencement. On
this N. side of the great temple, is a
garden, and another small temple to
^m^ia, another form of Shiva's wife.
Those who care to know more about
^ Indian mythology, may consult
^le^enbalg's ''Geuealogie der Malabar-

ischen Gi)tter," printed at Madras,
1868.

Dr. Bumell says in his pamphlet,
" The Great Temple of Tanjore," '* This
temple is really the most remarkable
of all the temples in the extreme S. of
India ; is one of the oldest, and as it
has been preserved with little altera-
tion, if not, perhaps, the largest, it
is the best specimen of the style of
architecture peculiar to India S. of
Madras.

" This style arose under the Cola (or
Tanjore) kings in the 11th cent. A.D.,
when nearly all the great temples
to Siva in S. India were built, and it
continued in use in the 12th and 13th
centuries, during which the great
temples to Vishnu were erected. Up
to the beginning of the 16th cent.,
these temples remained almost un-
changed, but at that time all S. India
became subject to the kings of Vijay-
anagara, and one of these named
Kri§hnardya (1509-1530) rebuilt or
added to most of the great temples of
the S. The chief feature of the archi-
tecture of this later period is the con-
struction of the enormous gopuras
which are so conspicuous at Conjeve-
ram, Chedambram and Shrirangam.
All these were built by Kpshnardya ;
they do not form part of the original
S. E. style, but were intended as forti-
fications to protect the shrines from
foreign invaders, and certain plunder
and desecration, as the Hindiis of
S.E. first discovered on the Muliam-
madan invasion of 1310 A.D.

" The ceremonies and

processions at the great Tanjore temjile
are now carried out in an economical
way ; it has lost its once immense
property, and depends almost entirely
on the husband of H. H. the Princess.

. . . . , . To the archaeologist
the temple and its ritual are of little
interest compared with the inscrip-
tions which cover the walls. A part
of these was photographed in 1859, by
order of Sir C. Trevelyan, and pub-
lished by the government, but without
result. In 1871, 1 made out the cha-
ractei, on^ t\ie N^^hole has been copied
nndcT my d\i<icV\OTi, \iy ^ \^'5cc\v?y^
I Tamil achoVai, ^aAxxx^ ^\x^\^^\ YiiiXscv^

Sect. II. Houte 5, — Tlie Princess of Tanj'dr's Palace,

203

whose transcript will shortly be pub-
lished. Nearly all these ihscriptions
— there are only 2 or 3 of a later date
— belong to the reign of Vira Cola, or
from 1064 to 1114 A.D. During the
reign of his father, Rdjdrdja, the Cola
power recovered from the defeats it
had suffered from the kings of the
Dakhan, and beginning with a conquest
of the Telugu sea-coast, it soon be-
came an object of alarm to the kings
of the N. Five of these formed a
confederacy, and were defeated. The
Colas then conquered, not only the
whole of the Dakhan, but invaded
Bengal and Oudh, and reduced the
kingdom of Ceylon to a miserable
state. The whole of India which in
the 11th cent, remained subject to
Hindii kings then became subject to
Vira Cola, and he was, beyond doubt,
the greatest Hindu king known to
history. As these inscriptions state, he
did not spare the kings he conquered,
and the enormous plunder which
he gained became the chief means
of building and endowing the great
temples of the S. But his conquests
cost the Hindiis a heavy price in the
end ; his kingdom soon fell to pieces,
and by the middle of the next cent., it
had become so insignificant that the
Singhalese, who had already shaken off
the Cola yoke, invaded the Tamil coun-
try. They vanquished and plundered
the Hind^ kingdoms of the Dakhan,
and the N. fell an easy prey to the
advancing Muhammadans, and in 1310
they conquered the whole Tamil coun-
try, and established a Muhammadan
dynasty at Madura, which lasted for
about 60 years. Thus all the spoils
of India came into the hands of the
Mul^ammadans almost in a day, and
were taken to Dihli. The full im-
portance of Vira Cola's reign is only
to be gathered from this inscription,
but it contains other information also
of great value. It proves, e.g., that in
the 11th cent, gold was the most com-
mon precious metal in India, and stu-
pendous quantities of it are mentioned
here; silver, on the other hand, is
little mentioned, and it thus appears
that the present state of things, which
J8 exactly the reverse, was only brought

about by the Portuguese in the 16th
cent. These inscriptions will also
throw much light on the history and
geography of India in the 11th cent,
of which we at present know so little,
and also on the constitution of the
village communities, a subject that is
now of deep interest to the students
of customs and comparative juris-
prudence. Thus from any point of
view, it is difficult to overrate the
value of these documents ; when edited
and fully explained — ^no easy task —
they will clear up much that is now
obscure, and will completely refute
the idle, though perhaps plausible
guesses that, at present, take the
place of history in S. India.'*

The Palace of the Princess of Tan-
jkr. — This biulding is in the Great
Fort, a little to the E. of the centre.
The entrance is in the £. wall of the
fort, it is j of a m. from the Rly. St^t.,
and the travellers' b. is on the rt. hand
about half way, so that it is a short
drive or walk. There is a masonry,
bridge over the first ditch, which is
there about 100 ft. broad. In one of
the rooms of the travellers' b.. Lord
Hastings died of fever, which he
caught in the Segtir Pass going to the
Nilgiri hills. The palace is a vast
building of masonry, and stands on
the 1. of the street, which runs north-
ward through the fort ; it was built
about 1550 A. D. After passing through
2 quadrangles, you enter a 3rd, on the
N. side of which is a building like a
gopura, 90 ft. high, with 8 storeys.
It was once an armoury. Application
to view this building must be made a
week before. At p. 384 of his " History
of Architecture," Mr. Fergusson says
of this tower : ^^ As you approach
Tanjiir, you see 2 great Vimdnahs not
unlike each other in dimensions or
outline, and at a distance can hardly
distinguish which belongs to the great
temple. On close inspection, how-
ever, that of the palace turns out to
be made up of dumpy pilasters and fat
balusters, and ill-designed mouldings
of Italian architecture^ isi\xft.^\i;:^"«Ss5o^
a few detaV\& ol \w^"K£v «x^\ ^ \asst^
curious auei \aa\.^\<i«» \\sss:Mva «3^^
I hardly \)e toxxud 'm C»\rtx\X». 'st ^^>«

204

Rovte 5, — Trichindpalli io Tanjiir.

Sect. II.

nan." On the E. side of the quad-
rangle is the Telugu Darbdr room, of
which Mr. Fergusson gives a view at
p. 383. It has on the outside pillars,
and within 3 arches supported in the
centre by 2 pillars. Ascending some
steps between these, you come to a plat-
form of black granite 18 ft. 8 in. long,
and 16 ft. 10 in. broad, by 11 ft. 10 in.
deep. On the sides are sculptured in
alto relievo, Surs and Asurs fighting.
On this platform stands a white marble
statue of Sharfojl, the pupil of Schwarz,
and the last Rdjd but one. He is
standing with the palms of his hands
joined as if in prayer, and he wears the
curious triangular pointed cap used by
the Tanjiir princes in the last 4 cent, of
their rule. The statue is by Flaxman,
and is a good specimen of that great
artist's performances. On the wall to
the rt. of the spectator is a strange
picture of Lord Pigot. Fame, repre-
sented as a fiaOuKSKirts female, is blow-
ing a trumpet, which she holds with
one hand, while she supports a picture
of Lord Pigot with the other. Below
her is a mourning female ; on the pe-
destal which supports the oval frame
of the portrait is inscribed :

Siege

of Madras raised

Feb. 17th, 1759.

Died
May 11th, 1777.

There are also numerous pictures of
the Rdjds, and one of the present
Princess as a child. In the same quad-
rangle is the library, in which is a most
remarkable collection of 18,000 Skr.
MSS., of which 8000 are written on
palm leaves. This library is unique,
and in India, at least, nothing at all
equal to it isi^o be found as regards
Sanskfit. Dr. Bumell has made a
careful descriptive catalogue of 12,000
of the "MSS., which has occupied all
his spare time for 7 years, and is a
work which will be of the greatest
value and assistance to oriental
scholars. The commencement of this
library was made at the end of the
Jffili or beginning ot the 17th cent.
(see note by Dr. Bumell^ printed by
^ygginbotham & Co,, Madras). At
tAut time, Tanjiii waa ruled by Telngu

Ndiks, who came from Vi jay ana-
gar, and deposed the Chola princes.
The MSS. they collected were written
on palm leaves in the Telugu cha-
racter, but Sanskrit language. In
1675 or 1677, the Mardtha^ conquered
Tanjiir, and the last Ndik burned
himself and his wives in the S. quad-
rangle of the palace where the li-
brary is. Sharfojl Rdja, the pupil
of Schwarz, during a visit to Baiiaras
in 1820-30, collected far the larger
number of MSS., and his successor
Sivaji added many, but of inferior
value. At Sivajl's death many pre-
cious MSS. were stolen. The MSS.
are written in Devandgarl, Nandi-
nagarl, Telugu, Kannada, Granthl,
Malay dlam, Bengdll, Panjdbi or Kash-
miri, and Uriya. Hundreds of volumes
here treat of the doctrines of Mddha-
vdcharya, a Kannada Brdhman of the
12th cent., and founder of the Dwaita
sect of the Vedantists, whose doctrines
have as yet been almost a secret.
He Ibelieved, however, that the human
soul was distinct from the Divine
Spirit. Here also is a collection of
the Tantras and Agamas of the S. of
India ; and Shilpashdstras, or works
on architecture and the constructive
arts. The native librarian here, named
Kiiwdchattu, is a most learned and
intelligent gentleman, and Dr. Bumell
has recently succeeded in getting his
miserable pittance of rs. 6 or 10*. a
month, raised to rs. 16, about 25*. a
month ! After this the visitor will go
to the Mardtha Darbdr, which is ni
another quadrangle. Here is a large
picture of Sivaji, the last Rdjd, witli
his chief secretary on his rt., and his
Diwdn on his 1. Remark also a fine
bust of Nelson, said by competent
judges to be extremely like him. It
has the following inscription :

His Highness Chattrapati Maharajah Rajah

Shri Sirfoji (sic)

Rajah of Tanjiir

is presented by the Hon. Anne Seymour Darner

with this bust of

Nelson

executed by herself

as a mark of her respect and esteem.

TVieie is also the model of a skeleton,
and vaTiowa Y^WMQieotsi^ ^ee^fc^ ^\<i.
shown worn \i7 V\i<i \^V^ ^t\:\is., \h.\\\

Sect. II.

Route 5. — Tanjur : Schwai-^s Church.

also a. siirer haadaj or elephant saddle,
and some frontlets for borseB, and a
double-baiTclled gim by Maoton, inlaid
with gold. AfWrwards the Tisitor
may see the hoDting leopards in cages
larKO enough for tigers.

Hchmari'* CbVTch ia in tie Little
Fort, close to the Sbivaganga Tank,
whii^ is much used by the inhab. of
Tanjiir for drinking purposes. Over
the Fort CJ^te ia the date 1777, and
over the facade of its church is

The church ia 85 ft. long, and 59 broad.
In the centre opposile the communion
table is s, very fine group of figures in
white marble, by Flasnwn, represent-
ing the death of Schwara. The aged
missionary is extended on hie bed, and
on his left stands the R&jA Sarfoji,
hia pupil, with 2 attendants, while on
his right is the missionaty Koblner.
and near Ihe bottom of the bed are 4
boys. The inscription is : —
To the Memotj of the
Revei«nd Chtjatinu FroQeriF awartz (lic),

BndaiedatTw]iirtbcl3thor'Febraar7, 1798,

Devoted ftoni hia earlj msiihooil to tiie office ot

ULssionuT JD the East,

Uie gimllsrtty of liig sttuatlon to UiBt of

Oie simple sanctity ot the

ApMtolIc Chuifrh.

Hia nntutBl lii-acity noo the sR^ctlon

ta liis unapotted pioMly and purltv of lift

aUke commanded iLe

oedium of polUli
the Biitfah Gc

ilUlcal negociatioii n

SchwBTz's habitation. Ncit to the
Shiraganga Tank is Ihe People's Park,
taken from grounds which belonged
to the Princeas of Tanjilr. Close l^
is the district jail, an old building
notintendedfora jail. On March 1 1th,
1878,lhere were 309 prisoners, of whom
10 were civil debtors, 21 women, and
ii boys. There are no solitary cells.
In 1867 it WHS the central jail. After
this the Jesuit Church may be visited,
called the Church of the Sacred Heart,
tinisked in August 1862. There are
on either side 7 pillars, and 2 pilasters,
and above, some of the names of the
following benefactors : De Tardy de
Montiavel with the motto " Sangaine
nobilis virtulibns nobilior ; " De la Ro-
chetl«, " Xllssa Uuctiboa ;" De Uocette
de Morigni, " Diou et Lou Hi," and
Ferrat de Pont Martin, without a
motto. There are also the Arms of
one Indian Amtuw&mi Modeliar, with
the Virgin's name in Tamil. In tie
Station chnrch there is a handsome
tablet to Schwars:, and in the cemetery
adjoining is a vaat square of common
masoniT without inscription, where
Lord Hastings was buried. The Col-
lector ot Tanjiir has a chaimiog resi-
dence at Vallam abont 6 m from Taojilr
to the W It IS worth driving out there

Tdnjarto Aijapafnam (Jiegapatam)

There are also tablets to Miss Sophia
Maitland, died 1750, Mra. Strange, .
1791, and Mia. Burrows, died 1789. ■

The small house N.W, of the chnrch, 1 uuhj^il viv.>. ~ & — -„ _--iss

and dose to it, is said to have been \ between. Se-I aioBii^oiaai. raA s.»^

timjati tree a ^to-ie

206

jRoiUe 5. — Trtchindpalli to Tanjur,

Sect. II.

is the town and village of an Indian
gentleman named Vira, which he oc-
casionally lends to Europeans. For a
few miles before reaching Nagapatnam
the country loses its fertile aspect, and
changes to a salt marsh with a very
strong saline smell. Ndgapatnam is
a municipal town with 48,625 inhab.,
and the capital of a district which
numbers 200,733 persons. There is no
travellers' b. here, but there is a Hdtel
de V Europe near the old Dutch ceme-
tery, kept by M. Sabatier, late Judge
at KArikal, where, at all events, lodg-
ing, such as it is, is procurable. The
Superintendent of the Rly. has the best
house in the place. He lives 2m. to
the N. of the Stat, near the seashore,
and his house has an upper storey,
which is comparatively cool. In the
direction of this house at } m. from
the Stat, is a massive round brick
building which was the powder maga-
zine of the Dutch. The walls are 5 ft.
thick, and it is now used as a pound
for strayed cattle. Close to this is a
road which turns to the W., and at
200 yds. a imlah in which the water
is full of a. stinging jelly-fish called
in Tamil Taniya. After crossing the
bridge over this, and going 100 yds.,
one comes to the Akra Tank, 400 ft.
square, and supplied with good water,
which is used for drinking, and in
which half the people of the town
bathe and wash their clothes. In the
centre of the N. side is a flight of 11
steps leading down to the water, and
at 32 ft^ from the top of those steps is
^ fine pippal tree (^IHcvs religiosa).
Here a few years ago a famous Sanydsi
or Hindii riligieux was buried, per-
mission having been obtained by his
friends from an Indian municipal com-
missioner. The civilian in charge of
the district ordered the body to be
removed for fear of its polluting the
water. This caused considerable ex-
citement. However, the body was
removed, and buried in a rice field
200 yds. to the N.W., and the people
have erected a brick building over it.
SacA are the occurrences which some-

times lead to serious disturbances in
Jndia,

-^^ Oiai?titck church of St Peter's,

— This church is due N. from the Rly.
Stat., and about \ m. from it on the
N. side of the road. It is 120 ft. long
from N. to S., and 37 ft. broad from E.
to W. The communion table andTai lin g
are of teak, and are in the centre of the
E. wall. On the walls are the escut-
cheons of several noble Dutch families.
One specimen of the inscriptions will
suffice. Under a female figure stand-
ing in a nautilus in the sea, a coronet
surmounting the coat of arms :

•• Nata, 21 September, K" 1687,
Obiit, 13 November, 1709."

There is a very large tomb in the
cemetery with dome to this lady,
whose name was Van Steel. At ^ m.
S.E. of this church is all that is left
of the fort,- a low wall with a flag-staff.
Turning from this, back to the Stat,
and close to it is the Old Dutch Ceme-
tery. Here are tombs of English officers,
Americans, Indian Christians and many
Dutchmen of rank.

Tlie Cliinese Pagoda. — The most re-
markable building at Nagapatnam,
one of the most remarkable in S. India,
was the Chinese Pagoda, which has
unfortunately been removed, but men-
tion of it cannot be omitted. It stood
about 1 m. to the N.W. of Ndgapat-
nam, and is thus referred to in Col.
Yule's book, S. Marco Polo, p. 273 :
" Some corroboration of the supposition
that the Tanjiir ports were those fre-
quented by Chinese trade may be found
in the fact that a remarkable pagoda
of uncemented brickwork about a m.
to the N.W. of Ndgapatnam popularly
bears, or bore, the name of the Chinese
Pagoda. I do not mean to imply that
the building was Chinese, but that the
application of that name to a ruin of
strange character pointed to some tra-
dition of Chinese visitors. Sir W.
Elliott, to whom I am indebted for the
sketch of it, given on the next page,
states that this building differed es-
sentially from any type of Hindii
architecture with which he was ac-
quainted, but being without inscrip-
tion or sculpture it was impossible
to assign to it any authentic origin.
N^apa^iaTQ. "was, \io^^N«t, Q&\'cfet^ted
as a seat ot"B\id'9iD\a\.^ot^\v,^'^<i^iN^^^
may 'have \>ee\i »i "£emw«i»JL ^1 ^€\x

Sect. 11. JRotUe 5. — Ndgapatnam : St Joseph's College.

207

work. In 1846 it consisted of 3 storeys
divided by cornices of stepped brick-
work. The interior was ©pen to the
top, and showed the marks of a floor
about 20 ft. from the ground. Its
general appearance is shown by the
cut. This interesting building was
reported in 1869 to be in too dilapi-
dated a state for repair, and I believe
it now exists no longer. Sir W.
Elliott also tells me that collectors
employed by him picked up in the
sand at several stations on this line
numerous Byzantine and Chinese, as
well as Hindii coins. The brickwork
of the pagoda described by him as
very fine and closely fitted, but with-
out cement, corresponds to that of the
Burmese and Ceylonese mediaeval Bud-
dhist buildings. The architecture has
a slight resemblance to that of Polla-
nania in Ceylon."

This most interesting building was
demolished by order of the Madras
Governor in 1869, and on the spot
where it stood now stands a b. in
which the day scholars of St. Joseph's
College assemble.

St. Jogepk'ji College. — This college
stands a m. N.W. of the Rly. Stat. It
was founded in 1840 by the Jesuits in
charge of the Madura mission. After
the establishment of the Madras Uni-
versity, this college was afl&liated to
it. Although St. Joseph's was estab-
lished primarily for the sake of Catholic
children it is also open to all creeds
and classes of society, and the educa-
tion therefore embraces all grades of
instruction, from the elementary to the
standard of Bachelor of Arts. More than
200 students, almost all Catholics, are
boarded in the College, and there are
about as many day scholars. In the 10
years that have elapsed since the college
was affiliated to the University, 100
students have passed the matriculation
examination, and 15 have taken the
bachelor's degree. One of the parti-
cularities of the institution is that the
Christians take up Latin as an optional
language. The chief sources of support
to the College are endowments made
by charitable persons from Europe,
and from the Catholic mission, a small
gmnt from government, and the school

fees. Eighteen professors, of whom 3
are Europeans, are employed at the
College, and live in a fine building
erected in 1 850 on the site once occupied
by the house of the Dutch Grovemor a
century ago.

About 3i m. N. of Ndgapatnam is
Ndgiir, a small town remarkable for
what are called the 5 Pagodas. This
name is very inappropriate, for pagoda
is only a corrupt form of the word
butkadah, "idol temple,'* and the
building here to which it is applied is
a mosque with 5 miners, which can
be seen at sea 20 m. off. It is, there-
fore, a favourite landmark for sailors.
A saint, called K^ir l^d]|]iib, descended
from 'Abdu'l Kddir Gil^i, and conse-
quently from the Imjto l^usain, is
said to have come here from M&nik-
piir, and to have died in 1560 A.D.,
and to have been buried here about
300 years ago, and this building was
erected by one of the Mard^ha R&jds
of Tanjiir, some say by Sharfoji in
1711, others by PratAp in 1741. It
is a curious fact that both Hindiis and
Muslims worship here. In front of •
the entrance stands the tallest min&r,
which has 10 storeys, and is said to be
200 ft. high, but in reality is about
140 ft. It is very solidly built of.
masonry. Still nearer the entrance
are 2 other miners, of 6 storeys each,
and at the back of the mosque are 2
more also of 6 storeys. There is also a
handsome tank at the back of the
mosque.

On the 10th of Jamddu's sdnl, the
anniversary of the Saint's death, a fes-
tival is observed, which lasts from the
1st to the 9th of the month. This was
first celebrated in 1700 A.D. but the
present buildings were erected after
the endowment of the shrine by Pratdp
Sing, the MarAtha BdjA of Tanjiir,
with some small villages in 1761, and
by his son Tuljajl. In all the endow-
ment consists of 15 villages. Kddir
Sal^ib had a foster son, Yiisuf, and his
descendants hold the shrine and its
endowment in 640 shares. They pos-
sess a book of wild legends about the.
Saint, wTillewVn.'^erj i-ai^ kt^^^,«siSi.
it has \)eeii lTW\^\a.\a^ \»^a ^^t-ssssv^
iHindVxst&iilm^laxDiV T^^^^^^^^*^

208

jRoute 5, — Trichindpalli to Tanjur»

Sect. IL

the coasting trade pay dues to this
shrine. One of the legends is to the
effect that the Saint knew he would
,die, and told Shaikh Yiisuf, who
grieved much. The Saint told him
not to sorrow, but to wash his corpse
with rain-water and give him the
salutation, to which he would reply
by telling him what to do. If he did
not reply, then Yiisuf was to return to
his own country. Yiisuf did as he was
directed, and the salutation was re-
turned by the corpse, who told Yiisuf
to remain and the gifts to the shrine
would support him and his children.
Yiisuf had 6 sons and 2 daughters.

Karikal. — As far as Nagiir the road
from Ndgapatnam to Kdrikal and
Tranquebdr is a very fair one. After
that it is full of holes. Turning to the
rt. after passing Ndgiir, you cross a
stream, 50 yds. broad, by a bridge, and
at the 6th m. pass through Tlrumal-
rAyan, a town of 5000 inhab., with a
few good houses, 3 m. beyond which
is KArikal, a town of 7000 people,
where the French have a Deputy-
Governor, or Chef de service, who has
a large and comfortable house. Tran-
quebar is about 5 m. N. of this, and at
IJ m. before reaching it you pass a
bridge over a fine stream, the Nandildr.
In the centre of the bridge is a finger-
post, with Fran^ais on the S.' and
Anglais on the N. The trayellers'
b. is close to the Fort, and has an
upstairs room and tolerable quarters.
The ascent to the upper room is by an
almost perpendicular staircase, more
like a ladder.

Tranquehdr orTaraiigamhadi^ proba-
blv has its name from the Tamil word
Tarangam " wave," and }>dd\^ " vil-
lage." It stands in N.lat. 11** 1', E.long.
79" 65'. A Danish E. I. Co. was esta-
blished at Copenhagen in 1G12, and the
first Danish merchantman arrived on
the Coromandcl coast in 1616, when
the Co. bought the village of Tranque-
bdr with land around it, 5 m. long
and 3 broad, from the Rdjd of Tanjiir.
Here they erected the fort of Danne-
borg; and the settlement increased
rapidly. In 1624 the Co. made over
tAe/r terntory with their charter
to Christian IV., in iiqnidation of theii

debt to him. In 1807 the British took
possession of this and all the other
Danish settlements in India, but re-
stored them in 1814. Finally, in 1845,
the king of Denmark ceded the terri-
tory to the English for £20,000. In
1780 Haidar 'All exacted a fine of
£14,000 from the Danish Government
for supplying the Niiwdb of the Kar-
ndtik with arms. For some years
after it had been acquired, an assistant-
judge visited Tranquebdr and held Ses-
sions there, but that was discontinued
in 1875 until 1878, and in consequence
the place rapidly decayed. It is now
hardly accessible, steamers do not stop
at it, and the road to it (in 1878) was
execrable. A few years ago it was
one of the most delightful places in S.
India, and was visited for health's
sake. It is now (1878) utterly mined.
There used to be a considerable trade
with the Straits, the seaports of India,
and the Mauritius, to which large
quantities of soap were exported.
This has entirely ceased. The towTi
consists of a handsome square or place
facing the sea, with 2 very good streets
running off from either corner on the
W. That on the S. side is Queen St.,
and that on the N., King St., which is
the better of the two. On the S. side
of the place is the former citadel, the
Danneborg, now used as a jail. On
the N. side of the place are the official
buildings of the former Government,
the Danish, the largest of which wag
used till lately as a District and Sessions
Court. The houses, which are remark-
ably good and well built, are not like the
usual Indian banglds, with compounds,
but adjoin one another in a street. On
the S. side of King St. is the Lutheran
Mission Church, called the Jerusalem,
and on the opposite side is the English
Church or Zion, formerly the church
of the Danish community, now the
English Protestant church. The tower
has a short spire in the Danish style.
The Lutheran is a large cruciform
building. Carl Graul, the well-known
traveller and Oriental scholar, was
head of the Lutheran Mission for some
time. On. either side of the altar in
tlie Jerviftalem. CWtOcl ^le, \.^\'et^, one
to t\ie memoxy ot 7Asi^cvOD?\^, «cA ow^

Sect. IL

EotUe 5. — Ghedamharam,

209

to that of Griindler. TranquebAr is
the head-quarters of the Gennan
Lutheran Mission, with churches in
several places in the Tanjiir and S.
Arkdt CoUectorates. The Mission was
founded by Ziegenbalg in 1707, and
is now conducted by Germans from
Leipzig. There is a good history of
the Mission by Fenger down to recent
times, translated into English, and
published at Tranquebdr. The town
is surrounded by a Fort-wall, in good
order. Cholera is almost unknown at
Tranquebdr. When it was sold to the
English, many Danish families emi-
p^rated, and now scarce one is left.
The Danes lived at this place to a
great age. And it used to be a plea-
sant sight some years ago to see,
as the sun was about to set, the very
old ladies coming out in their best
attire to call on their neighbours.
Tite Dannehorg consists of a most
soUdly built wall from 15 to 18 ft.
high, with rooms round it, and 2 soli-
tary cells at the S. side, perched on
the wall. Over the door is C' Chris-
tian 7th. On the 9th March, 1878,
there were 138 adult male prisoners,
10 females, 2 boys, and 12 civil debtors
= 162. The wall on the E. side is 9 ft.
thick, and there is no ventilation at
top. In the vestry-room of the Eng-
lish Protestant Church there is a
curious old picture of the Lord's
Sapper, with the line "Tu vis esse
mens per coenam Christi sacratam."
Observe also a very handsome baptis-
mal font of black marble, and a bell
with the date 1752.

If the traveller desire a day's
antelope shooting he may, on his
return to Ndgapatnam, pay a visit
to Point Calimere, which is 31 m. S.,
and which can be reached by the
Canal, or by land in a pdlkl. The
word is an Anglo-Indian corruption
of the Tamil Kallinietu, " Hill of the
Euphorbia." The Collector of Tanjiir
has a comfortable b. at this delight-
ful place, where the sea breeze has a
restorative effect on those jaded by
the heat of S. India. In the maps
there is marked " Salt, fetid swamp to
the W. of Point Calimere ; " but those
wojds need not convey alarm to the

visitor, as the place is most salubrious.
The b., to which the Collector would
probably grant access, is but 5 minutes'
walk from the sea, but there is also
good encamping ground near it. The
soil is sandy, but passable for wheeled
vehicles. Herds of antelope frequent
the neighbouring jungles and the
vicinity of Kodekad or Kodekdmi, a
village on the edge of the jungle. As
deer are so plentiful, it is probable
that panthers might be heard of in
the locality.

From Point Kalimetu the Column
at Salvanaikenpafnain may be visited.
It is a voyage of 35 m. in a boat, to
the S.W. The column stands on the
beach near Chetabaram Chattram in
the Puttukotta T'aluk. It was once
used as a lighthouse, and is still in good
order, but the doors and windows are
almost all gone. The drawbridge, too,
no longer exists. The column is about
90 ft. high, and is surrounded by a
miniature fort. On the S.W. face is
the following remarkable inscription :

His Hiffbness

Mah&r^jah Sarfoji, MahdnUah of Tadjik,

The Friend and Ally of the British

Government,

Erected this Column

to commemorate the triumph

of the British Arms,

and the downfall of

Bonaparte,

1814.

Above this is an inscription in the
Ndgari character, and below it one in
Tamil. On the r. is one in Persian
and on the 1. one in Telugu. The in-
scriptions are on black marble. The
Persian has the date 1230 A.H.

Chilambram. — The Municipality of
this place, and many officials, have
adopted for it the name of Cliedam,'
baram, and so it appears in the
Census Report for 1871. It has only
lately been constituted a Municipality
since the date of the Census. It con-
tains 15,519 inhab., and is the chief
town of a district in S. Arkdt CoUecto-
rate, which has a pop. of 239,133. The
Great Temple is dedicated to Shiva, and
in this district the worshipi^ra ol tJasa^
deity {oim ^^'5 -^pet fietA.. oS. >QaR.'S5fflL^*M^,
Although CVieaiaEDiXiBL'nwQ. Sa av\^:s J^ ^*
from PoTto Islo^o A'^*^^^^^^^ \&\^»ssvx^

210

Eoute 5. — Taiijiir lo Aitaitarai,

Sect. II.

practicable. No hoTses are procurable, i
tbe road is a bad one, not Bulled for |
wheeled traffic, ftiid it is aometimes
difficult to pass the Vell&r r., as there
is no bridge. Carta, hoivever, are
always procurable at the rate of 1 r.
iistM. for the trip, and those who enjoy
roughing it, ma; make the experiment.
For those who prefer to trayel com-
fortably, it will be best to go from
Tanjiir by the South Indian rly., as
follows : —
Iht^6r to Anaiiarai Chattram. 61 jm.

rfamesof

,.-..„..„.

dip!

^'P; ^'X^MtSm-

1. ThKtti . .

i Jigs ^

10 3S

^„gffi.n]Si-tb«™

'•"Ss-i

««,

■•■^N^^^SJn^

0. TimTBdu- ■

11.30

SlBat Kumblui-

I. !l.ml.,„.

,. &^

lis?

fi.B

fl.ao .

Kovll .

11. auijwi

1."

ii<"'«"SS

Cliattnim

_fi^

*'*"nBS,°Sla

called the Am-

iianpit banglil. Then

UQt lUlnwcl lu be buflt with nnpM storey«.
It \K\ng thought Injurious to the a^fat o(

The FagodaaatChedambaramareth«
oldest in the 8. of India, and porlione
them are gems of art. They are sii
ated 3 m. S. of the Vellir r., and 29
N. ot Tranqucb6r, in N. lat. IT J
E. long. 79' 45'. Here is placed bj
some the N. frontier of lie ancient
Chola Kingdom, the successiye capi-
tals of which were Uriyiir on the
Kivfiri, Kumbhakonam ajid Tanjilr,
Others carry the frontier as high as
the 8. Pennir r., which falls into the
»3s a few m. ff. of QudaJiir. The
pnncipal temple is sacred to Shiya,
aod IS affirmed to have been erected.

or at least embellished by Hiranya
Varna Chakravartti, "the golden-
coloured Emperor," who is said to
have been a leper, and to have oiigi-
lally borne the name of Swethavarmah,
■ the white-coloured," on account of
bis leprosy, and lo have corae S. on a
pilgrimage. He recOTCrod at Chedam-
baram miraculously, aflcr taking ft
bath in the Tank in fhe centre of the
temple, and rebuilt or enlarged the
temples thereupon. As Ibis name
occurs in Iho R6jil Taraugini, or
Chronicles of Kashmir, as that of a
king whose father conquered Ceylon,
it has been thought that a Kashmir
king erected these buildings, but Mr.
Ferffusaon says ("Hist, of Archil.."
p. 350) that he is afraid the traditions
that connect the foundation of this
temple with Hiranya Varna of Kash-
mir are of too impalpable a nature
to be depended on. He cannot see
iinything in this temple of so early an
age, nor any feature of Kashmir archi-
tecture. H it were leally true that
the Kashmir prince erected any build-
ings here or their prototypes we should
liare to ascribe to them the date 471
i.D. He is said to have brought 3000
Briibraana from the N., and the legend
is that Sw^lhavarmah, who became
Hiranyavannah, at the instance of
Viyigrapalhttr and Pathanjiili, two
Sages who were then doing penaiico at
Cliedamharam, enlarged the temple,
and sent for SUOOBrihmans, who were
living along the banks of the Ganges,
for oflering Pdjah {prayora) to
NAteshwara. When they came, one
among them was missing, and, a lai'mcd
at this, they were very relucUinl to
settle at Cbedambaram. Shiva, how-
■, appeared lo them, and declareil

that h

e of tl

which

they were satisfied. Their descendants
are curators of the temple, and are
Qow about 250 in number, and are
called Ditcltadbart. It is added in
one of the Mackenzie MSa. that Vlra
Chola Hiji (A,D. 927-977) saw the
Sabh&pati, i.e., Shica, dance on the
aeashore with his wife, PArvati, and
erected the Kanak SabhA, or golden
I abrine in Tuemnrs cit ttvfc ^o4,-wUo is
, I heie CBltel NoiUew w HMwIhcot, ®»i

Sect. IT.

R(nUe 5. — Cliedamharam.

211

of dancing. The whole area is sur-
rounded by 2 high walls, which con-
tain 32 acres.

The outer wall of all is 1800 ft. long
from N. to S., and 1480 ft. from E. to
W. Nearly in the centre of this vast
space is a fine tank, 315 ft. long from
N. to S., and 180 ft. broad from B. to
W. At the 4 points of the compass are
4 vast gopuras, those on the N. and
S. being about 160 ft. high, and of 8
storeys besides the top. The others are
lower.

On the E. of the tank is the Hall of
1000 Pillars, which is 340 ft. long from
N. to S., and 190 ft. broad from E. to
W. Mr. Fergusson (p. 352, "Hist, of
Arch.") makes the number of pillars
in this hall 984, but I believe them to
be in rows of 24 from E. to W., and 44
deep from N. to S., the total number
of pillars being 938, viz. —

N. toS.

. toS.

Istrow

20 Pillars.

23rd]

row

= 20 Pillars.

2nd „

24th

= 22

3rd „

25th

= 22

4th „

26th

= 24

5th „

27th

= 24

6th „

28th

= 22

7th „

29th

= .22

8th „

30th

= 21

9th „

31st

= 22

10th,,

32nd

= 22

nth,.

33rd

= 20

12th „

34th

= 20

13th „

35th

= 22

14th „

36th

))

= 22

15th „

37th

= 22

J6th„

38th

= 22

17th „

39th

= 22

18th „

40th

= 22

19th „

4l8t

= 20

20th „

42nd

= 18

21at „

43rd

= 22

22nd „

44th

= 22

There are, therefore, 938 pillars 15 ft.
high, and adding those in the S. porch,
974, and this is one of the very rare
instances in India where the so-called
Hall of 1000 Pillars is almost furnished
with that number. In this calculation
the pillars in the S. porch are included.
Of these there are 3 rows of 6 pillars
each, from N. to S., minus 2 in the 1st
row, and 4 rows of 5 each from E. to
W.; total =36.

On the W. of the tank is the Temple
of Pdrvatl, known as Shivagamiam-
man^ the wife ofSbiva, of the porch of
which atp, 163ofhia History, Mr. Fer-

gusson has given a view, and of which
he says, that it " is principally remark-
able for its porch, which is of singular
elegance." The outer aisles of this
porch are 5 ft. 6 in. wide, the next 7 ft.
9 in., and the centre 23 ft. The roof
is supported by bracketing shafts tied
with transverse purlins till only 9 ft.
is left to be spanned. The outer en-
closure in which this temple stands
has two storeys of pillars, and is 170 ft.
from N. to S., and 301 ft. from E. to
W. The pillars are 7 ft. high. There
are 16 pillars in the front of this en-
closure, that is, in its E. face, and in its
N. corner a place for offering sacri-
fices, which is a sort of small temple,
called Yajasdlah, 35 ft. by 26. On the
S. side of the enclosure there are 2
rows of 53 pillars each, on the W. side
2 of 27 each, and on the N. side 2 of
35 each. Within this enclosure is the
temple of the goddess, which has a
front mandapam 40 ft. from E. to W.,
and 38 from N. to S. On either side
are 6 rows of 3 pillars each. Then
follows the temple, the enclosure of
which is 97 ft. from N. to S., and 145 ft.
from E. to W. It has 10 pillars in
front, that is on the E. face, and 6 on
the W. side, 6 on the N., and 10 on the
S. side. The temple is 68 ft. high to
the top of the Shikr.

Adjoining this temple of P^lrvatl
and to the N. of it is one to Subrah-
manya, the enclosure of which is 250 ft.
from N. to S., and 305 ft. from E. to
W. There is thq image of a swan in
front of it, then a portico with 4
pillars in front. The inner enclosure
is 65 ft. from N. to S., and 130 ft.
from E. to W. There are 6 rows of 6
pillars each from N. to S., then 3 rows
of 8 pillars each from N. to S., and 2
rows of 4 pillars each from E. to W.
The enclosure is surrounded by 1 storey
of 2 rows of 40 piUars each, both on
the N. and W. side. Mr* Fergusson
assigns the end of the 17th or begin-
ning of the 18th cent, as the date of
this temple. There is another smaU
one to Subrahmanya on the E. side
of the S. Gopura, and one to Ganesh
to the IB. ot \.\iaX. m "Caa ^^Sk. ^'srosst ^S.
the great eiiG\o«srcfe. Tt^^"^ N& '^^^ "«^

212

HotUe 5, — Tanjur to Anaikarai.

Sect. IL

Pdrvatl's temple, and several smaller
mandapams in other parts of the great
enclosure.

The principal temple to Shiva is due
S. of the tank and about 30 yds. from
it. The outer enclosure is 320 ft. long
from N. to S., and 285 ft. from E. to
W. In the S.E. comer of this enclo-
sure is the kitchen, in the S.W. a
temple to Pdrvatl, and in the centre
of the S. side what is called the Danc-
ing Court with an idol of Ndteshwar.
In the N.W. comer is a ruined enclo-
sure and in the centre of the N. side a
temple to the Chedambara Lingam with
a vacant space to perform the Parikra-
mah or devotional circumambulation.
This vacant space is generally left round
shrines. The inner enclosure, which
contains the sanctuary, is 114 ft. from
N. to S., and 132 ft. from E. to W.,
and these are the dimensions of the
space or court left for the Pariltramah.
There are 2 entrances to it, 1 on the
E., and 1 on the S. side. Each has a
mandapam. In the centre of all is
the sanctuary, which consists of 2 parts.
In the S. part, which is 39 ft. high,
are 3 bells, and on its E. is a wooden
shed, and N. of this is a well covered
with a small temple. The N. portion
is 70 ft. high, and 84 ft. wide from E.
to W. In this is the most sacred
image of the dancing Shiva, which is
that of a naked giant "with 4 arms,
with only a band round his loins, his
right leg planted on the ground and
his left lifted sideways, something in
the attitude of a man dancing a reel.
The roof of this building is covered
with plates of gilt copper. It will be
seen that the sanctuary in this temple
is no exception to the general rule
that this part is insignificant in com<
parison with the gigantic Gopuras.
It consists of a low wall surmounted
by an ugly and prodigiously heavy
curviUnear roof covered with copper
gilt, from which it is called the Kanaka
szbhdf or golden hall. Adjoining the
enclosure of the sanctuary on the S.
side is another enclosure of the same
length fronr E. to W., but only 33 ft.
broad from N, to S, In the E. comer
js a mandapam^ and in the W. a small
tempJa to the Shila Govindah. There

is also a tiny shrine opposite the
Kanaka sabMy of which Mr. Fer^sson
says, " The oldest thing now existing
here is a little shrine in the small en-
closure with a little porch of 2 pillars
about 6 ft. high, but resting on a stylo-
bate ornamented with dancing figures,
more graceful and more elegantly exe-
cuted than any other of their class, so
far as I know, in S. India. At the sides
are wheels and horses, the whole being
intended to represent a car, as is fre-
quently the case in these temples.
Whitewash and modern alterations
have sadly disfigured this gem, but
enough remains to show how exquisite,
and consequently how ancient, it w^.
It was dedicated to Verma, the god of
dancing, in allusion, probably, to the
circumstance above mentioned as lead-
ing to the foundation of the temple."
To the W. of this temple stands a
small one dedicated to the goddess of
Tillai Govinden, known as Pundari'
kavalU TJiayar, This Pagoda was
surrendered to the British in 1760
without a shot, but in 1781 EEaldar
garrisoned it with 3000 men, and Sir
Eyre Coote was repulsed from it with
the loss of 1 gun.

Returning from Chedambaram, the
traveller may stop at Mayaveranij
where the Pagoda is worth seeing.
The morning train from Anaikari
leaves at 4 A.M., and reaches Mayave-
ram at 5.28 A.M., and the 9.20 A.M.
train arrives at Mayaveram at 10.48,
between which hours there is time to
see the Pagoda. There is no travellers'
b. (1878).

Mayaveram is a town of 21,165
inhab., and the capital of a district in
the Tanjiir collectorate containing
219,358 souls. The Shiva Pagoda has
1 large Gopura and 1 small one. The
great Gopura stands at the entrance
on the S. side of the outer enclosure,
and has 10 storeys, including the base-
ment but not the top. It is 162 ft.
high. To the W. of this Gopura is a
Teppa Jtnlam 140 ft. from E. to W.,
and 190 ft. Erom N. to S. N. of this is
the small Gopura with 6 storeys and
about 55 ft. high. This leads into a
2nd eiicVoBvxift, ?i^\A» ^^^ ^. ixooi Yk. to
W., and ^^0 it. tcom ^. \o ^. Tt^^

Sect. II.

Route 5. — Chedamharam.

213

temple has a Mandapam adjoining it
on the S., 60 ft. long &om N. to S., and
19 ft. broad from E. to W. The temple
itself is 50 ft. long from N. to S.
There is a 2nd temple in the N.E.
corner of the great enclosure to
Pdrvati.

More important are the temples of
Konibahanam or Xnmhiuilionam, The
train that leaves Anaikarai at 4 A.M.
reaches this town at 7.14, and the
9.20 A.M. train arrives at 12.30, which
hardly gives time to examine the
temples properly. Kumbhakonam is a
town of 44,444 inhab. in the Tanjiir
coUectorate, and the capital of a district
containiDg 341,034 souls. The Pagodas
stand near the centre of the town, and
about 1 m. from the Stat. Mr. Fergus-
son, at p. 368 of his " History," has
given a view of one of the Gopuras,
which he says is only 84 ft. across and
1 30 ft. high. The largest Pagoda is dedi-
cated to Vishnu, and the great Gopura
here has 11 storeys besides the base, or
12 storeys in all. Torches are required
in ascending it, as the stone steps ai-e
veiy old, broken and slippery, and
there is no rail to take hold of. The
walls slope inward, and the floors are
of stone, and shake alarmingly with the
tread of visitors. The total height is not
less than 147 ft. There are windows on
the E. and W., up to which you can
climb to see the view. The interior
of the temple has nothing remarkable.
The inner court is 88 ft. 6 in. by 55 ft. 6 in.
A street arched over and 330 ft. long
and 15 ft. broad, with shops on either
side, leads to the Shiva Pagoda or
Temple of Kumbheshwara, the Gopura
of which has only 8 storeys, and is
128 ft. 9 in. high, inclusive of the
small kalasaim or rails at top. The
court here is 83 ft. long and 55 ft. 3 in.
broad.

The MahAmolian Tank, — At \ m. to
the S.E. of the Pagodas is a fine tank,
into which it is said the Ganges flows
once a year. On that occasion so vast
a concourse of people enter the water
to bathe, that the surface rises some
inches, which confirms their belief in
the miracle. Accidents happen every
year, and persona are cruised under
the huge cars, which are dragged like

that of Jagann&th by thousands of
people. The tank has 16 small but
picturesque pagodas studding its banks,
and has many flights of steps leading
down to the water. The principal
small pagoda is on the N. side of the
tank, and in its ceiling is represented
in alto rilievo the balance in which a
certain Govind I>ichit was weighed
against gold, which was then given to
the Brdhmans. This worthy is repre-
sented sitting in one scale, while a huge
sack of money fills the other. There
is a Tamil inscription in this Pagoda,
but time has made it illegible. In
every other small Pagoda there is a
Lingam, and small Nandls stud the
intermediate walls. On the whole the
tank is certainly one of the hand-
somest in India. Across the road is a
large old red-brick Pagoda, and on the
E. of the tank a Pagoda to Arimukh-
teshwar. At this on March 11th, 1878,
was exhibited a collection of wax-
work figures quite equal to anything
of the kind in Europe. There are
artists at Kumbhakonam who produce
such figures with astonishing skill, the
principal one being Sadimile Pillayar.
At the same exhibition a boy of low
caste, carved in dark wood with inimit-
able skill, was shown.

The Bcavchamp College at Kumbha-
konam is one of the best educational
institutions in India, and deserves a
visit. There is also a female school
attended by 115 girls, founded by
Govinda RAo, Vice-President of the
Municipal Commission. There are but
few Europeans here. The Assistant-
Judge lives at about 2 m. from the
Stat., and before reaching his house
the church (Christ Church) is reached,
which is only 46 ft. 9 in. long from W.
to E. and cost 6500 rs. There are 2
tablets, 1 of which has an inscription
giving 1855 as the date when the
church was opened. In the church-
yard among other tombs are 4 of
children of the same parents, 3 of
whom died of cholera, and one of the
bite of a cobra.

214

jRoiUe 6. — Trichindpalli to Madura,

Sect. 11.

ROUTE 6.

TEICHINAPALLI TO DINDIGAL, THE

PALNAI
168 M.

HILLS, AND MADUBA.

I4ames of

Trains.

Remakks.

Stations.

A.M.

TrichinA-

dep. at

PAT.LI to

11.36

P.M.

1. KolattT!ir .

12.13

2. Manaiparai

12.52

Stat, on L Here
low - wooded
hills approach
line on r.

3. Vaiyampatti

1.29

Woodedhills.Thc
umbrella tree
common.

4. Aiyaliir . .

2.14

Stat, on 1.

5. Vadamadura

2.38

■

6. DincUfi^ .

8.45

High mountains
in front and on
thel.

7. Ammayani-

Ammayandyak-

yakkaniir.

13J

4.41

Kxinuristhestat.
at which the tra-
veller desirous

8. Sholavan-

of visiting the
Palnai hilft, for

dan . .

5.35

9. Samianellur

6.0

which see below,

10. Madura

arr.

must alight The

6.30

distance there

Total. .

and back is 72m.

It cannot be too often repeated that
the traveller should not attempt this
journey after the 15th of March, as
the heat is excessive. Should he,
however, resolve on going later than
the 15th of that month, he will do
well to provide himself with 5 lbs. of
ice and a bottle or two of eau-de-
Cologne, with which he should soak
his head constantly.

Dindigal is a town of 12,865 inhabi-
tants, and the capital of a district of
1091 sq. m., with 324,366 souls. It is
a municipal town in the large collecto-
rate of Madura. It is the head quar-
ters of a sub-collector, and the climate
is cooler and more healthy than that
of Madura. The great rock on which
the fort is built forms a conspicuous
object from the rly,, and is worth a
visit It is about 400 ft. long, 300 ft.
^i^ad, and 280 ft. high. It rises from

the midst of a low-lying plain, and
stands quite isolated, with a site which
bears N.E. and S.W. Its lofty preci-
pitous and inaccessible sides were
strongly fortified under the first Ndy-
akkan kings, if not before ; and for a
long time it was the key of the pro-
vince of Madura on the W. (see " Man-
ual of the Madura Country,'' by J. H.
Nelson). In the history of Madura
Collectorate, given by Mr. Nelson, the
first mention of Dindigal is at p. 119
of Part III. During Mutta Virappu's
reign at Madura, 1609—1623, a Mu-
bammadan led a body of horsemen to
invade Madura, and penetrated to
Dindigal, whence he was driven back.
About the same time one Mukilan came
from Maisiir and besieged the fort of
Dindigal, and was defeated and driven
away by the 18 Paligars of Dindigal
under Nadukattalai Chiniia Katthira
NAy akkan , who was for this made keeper
of the fort. Mutta Virappu was suc-
ceeded, in January, 1623, by Tirumala
Sevari Nayani, the greatest ruler of
Madura in modern times. In his reign
Chdm Rdj Udaiydr, of Maisiir, sent his
general, Harasura Nandi Rdj, to take
Dindigal. But Rdmappaya, the Dala-
wai or Commander-in-Chief of Madura,
defeated the Maisiirean and invaded
Maisiir. In 1658-59 the Prince Ku-
mAra Mutta, younger brother of the
King of Madura, marched through
Dindigal into Maisiir, and defeated
and took prisoner the Rajd and cut
off his nose and the noses of all his
prisoners. Hence this war was called
" the hunt for noses." In 1736 Chaiidd
§dbib, after his conquest of Trichina-
palli, placed his brother, 8Mi^ Sdhib,
in Dindigal, and in 1741 this Khaii
was killed by the Mardthas when he
was marching to join his brother with
3000 foot and 1500 horse. In 1752
Dindigal was in the hands of the
Rdjd of Maisiir, and in October, 1757,
IJaidar 'All was there with a consider-
able force (Orme, vol. ii., p. 246), from
which, in November, he invaded the
Madura district and returned with
much booty. In June, 1760, ^aidar
'All's troops at Dmdigal commenced
Yiostiiitiea a^aMisX. \)ae. Tv<i\^c\iwviYvw^

Sect. II.

HoiUe 6. — Palard Hilts.

force of 4800 men sent against them by
Mul^ammad Yiisuf. A sharp engage-
ment took place in October, in which
the Maisiireans were victorious, but
they soon after retired into the fort of
Dindigal, which was taken by the
British from Tipii, in 1781, and re-
stored to him in 1784, but finally
ceded, along with the district of which
it is the capital, to the British in 1792.
The Palnai or (according to Nel-
son's Manual) Palani Hills, — The tra-
veller who desires to see these hills will
alight at Ammayandyakkanur, having
previously made arrangements with
the proprietor of the Kodikdnal and
Pirmedu Bullock Transit Company at
Periakulam, Madura District, to take
him up to the Palani Hills. The
charges will be as follows : —

Cash. Credit,

rs. a. p. rs. a. p.
For a bullock carriage, with

springs, to Feriakmain ..600 780
Ditto, to Kri§hnama Niyak-

kan T6p 7 8 12

Ditto, to Gudaliir QM\ . 20 7 25 9

Parcel Charge at Reduced Rates,
(82 BengpEil lbs. = 1 man.

From Ammayan&yakkanur to Feriakulam.

rs. a. p.
From 1 to 3 vians . . . .080

„ 3to5 „ 7

Each man above 5 . . . .060
From ditto tp foot of Gudaliir Ghit,

per matt.
From 1 to 3 mxins 10

„ 3 to 5 „ . . . . U

Each m/in above 5 . . . . 12
2 Ponies for each adult from foot of

Ghdt to Kodikanal . . .200
Each kuli from Periakulam to Eodi-

kdnal carrying 50 lbs. . . .080
Each kuli taking 50 lbs. from Guda-
liir Ghat to Pirmedu . . per m. 6
1 common cart on the low lands .023
Ditto, on the hills . . ..020

From Ammayanayakkaniir to Peria-
kulam is 26 m. in a W. direction. A
Tahsilddr has his head-quarters at
Periakulam, and there is a t. b.
From Periakulam to KTi§hnamaNdyak-
kan T6p, at the foot of the Gudaliir
GhAt, is 5 m. The Transit Agent will
have kulls and ponies posted there
for ascending the Ghdt, but notice
should be given to him 2 days before.
The traveller will sit on one pony and
drive the other before him, or he can
bare it led by a kuli. The Gh6.t, or

ascent of the mountain, is 12 m. long.
Near the 9th milestone is a plateau, on
which a former collector has erected
a b. Except from April to June it is
easy to rent a house from the American
Mission, who possess several.

Intending visitors must particularly
remember that there are no markets
on the Palanis. Stores and provisions
of all kinds must be brought up from
the plains.

The PaZnai or Palanit, so-called
by the English, are known to the
natives of the Tamil country as the
Vardha or Hog Mountains. They
spring from and are connected with
the main body of the Travankor
Hills at their N. extremity, and run
E.N.E. for 54 m., with a mean
breadth of 15 m. The W. or higher
portion forms a plateau of 105 sq. m.
of an average height of 7500 ft., with
peaks rising to 8000 and 8500 ft.
The E. or lower range is nowhere
more than 5000 ft. alwve sea level,
and gradually drops to 1500 ft. to-
wards Dindigal. They consist gene-
rally of enormous masses of gneiss
interstratified with quartz and veins
of felspar. In some places they are
firm, but in most places decayed here
and there to gritty clay. The tops
are of syenite with granulitic por-
phyrite and micaceous granite. Sili-
ceous clay and hornblende slate,
argillaceous slate, ferruginous quartz,
the striped opal, black mica, iron
mica, sulphuret of iron, ferrotan-
talite, hydrous and anhydrous" oxide
of iron, also occur. At the N.E. end
gold is found in the alluvium and sand
of the plain. Water is abundant, and
11 streams rise from the 2 plateaus.
The area they cover is 798^ sq. m.,
of which 427 belong to Government.
The most unhealthy season is from the
1st of January to the middle of March,
when the thermometer at noon ranges
from 55'* to 68*, with frost at night.
May is the hottest month, when the
heat at noon generally shows 64^'.
In the latter part of April there is
much thunder, and on the 24th of April,
1862, " t\iEt^ ^«i& «.\.'tfeTCL<5i\s.^<5^i.^\iR."N^

size, \>y ^\i\GV mm-^ ^\sss»ia^ ^^^s

216

JRoiUe 6. — Trichindpalli to Madura,

Sect. 11.

killed." (See Nelson's Manual, Part V.
p. 91). Eodikdnal, which is the Eu-
ropean settlement, consists of 10 or 15
small, ugly houses and a few huts for
servants. It is not well chosen as
regards scenery. But there are places
where the views of the low country
and the Animalei Hills to the W. are
past description beautiful. The sports-
man will find bison, tigers, panthers,
bears, the wild dog which hunts in
packs and is most dangerous, sdmbar,
and towards the Travankor Hills, a
few elephants. There are also florican
and woodcocks. About 12 m. S.W. of
Kodikdnal and 9 m. from the Travan-
kor boundary line is the site of a
large lake, which was probably an
artificial reservoir, and might easily be
converted into a piece of water 12 or 15
m. in circumference. It is at a height
of 7000 ft. above sea-level. The pop.
of the 2 ranges does not exceed 950O,
consisting of Eunnuvans, cultivating
holdings of their own, Poleiyans, here-
dita^ slaves of the above, Maravars,
and V adakans, who are of a superior
caste, Chettis, Pariahs, and Palliyans.
The nutmeg, cinnamon, and pepper
vine grow wild. Jack-fruit, orange-
trees, lime-trees, citron and sago plants
are common, and thousands of acres
have been disforested to grow the
plantain-tree, which here produces
fruit of a very rich and aromatic fla-
vour, of which the Indians are very
fond.

Madura, — ^The t. b. is close to the
rly. Stat, at this city, which has 61,987
inhabitants, and is the capital of a
district with 231,418 souls, and of a
collectorate which has an area of 9,502
sq. m., and 2,266,615 inhabitants, of
whom 132,833 are Muslims and 70,941
Christians. This is also the capital of
the old Pandyan Kingdom, for which,
and also for the history of Madura
generally, see Chronological Tables.

Palace of Tirumul. — ^W. of the rly.

Stat, and t. b. 14 m., is the Palace of

Mahd Rdj4 Mdnya Rdjd Shri Tirumala

Sevarl NAyani Ayyalu Gdru, "the

.greatest of all the mlers of Madura in

modem times ** (Nelson* B Manual,

pt ui.,p. 131). He succeeded Muttu

y^appa in January, 1623, and reigned

gloriously 36 years. In Mr. Fergus-
son's " History of Architecture," p. 381,
will be found an account of this build-
ing. The measurements here given
were taken very carefully, March 16,
1878, on the spot. Passing through
the town, which has broad streets,
thanks to a former Collector, to
whom there is a monument, you
arrive in front of the Palace, which
looks modem, and has pillars of rough
granite cased with cement 2 in. thids,
supporting scalloped arches. The rest
of the building is of masonry. On the
rt. of the entrance is a modem and
not very sightly building where the 2
inferior courts of justice hold their
sittings, one in each store}'. The en-
trance to the palace is on the E.
side, and a granite portico is in
course of construction, to be paid for
out of a fund raised by subscription in
honour of Lord Napier of Ettrick, who
first ordered the restoration of the
Palace. On the rt. of this portico is
the office of the municipality, which
was probably Timmal's Kachhari or
office. At each comer of the E. face
of the palace is a low tower, and the
N. comer is being raised and strength-
ened for a clock tower. The clock
has been lying for the last 7 years
in the store-room of the Municipality.
Passing through the Napier Gateway
you enter a quadrangle 2524 ft. long
from E. to W., and 151 ft. broad from
N. to S. 30 ft. of this space on the
E., N., and S. sides is occupied by a
roofed aisle or corridor, the roof being
supported by arches resting on granite
pillars covered with cement as men-
tioned above. On the W. side the
corridor is a double one, and is 67 ft.
broad. The front part of this corridor
is called the Waggon loft, and is the
first part of the Palace that has been
restored. On the E. and S. sides of
the quadrangle is a row of 12 plain
pillars 38 ft. 2 in. high to the top of the
capital whence the arch springs. To
the centre of the arch from the ground
is 47 ft. On the E., N., and S. sides of
the quadrangle, the fioor of the cor-
ridor is raised 7 ft., and is ascended
by flights ot 14t «i\«^a ^«jc^. Oh ^MV^at
BideoftTielatBte^t\iLe.T^^«kSwi^\«^V'KCL\,.

Sect. 11.

Rovie C. — Madura,

217

One of these elephants much mutilated
stands in the quadrangle. On the 3
sides just mentioned, there are 3 rows
of pillars. The space between the
outer row and the middle row has
been left open as a corridor, but that
between the middle row and the wall
of the palace is enclosed by dwarf
walls, and the rooms so formed are
used as offices. On entering through the
Napier Gateway you face the front of
the Waggon loft on the W. side. Here
the massiveness of the supporting pil-
lars is relieved by a slender pillar
running up in front of them. The
Waggon loft is 46 ft. broad from E.
to W. In the centre of its W. side
ascends the chief staircase, and in one
of its stones there is a Tamil inscrip-
tion. Passing from the staircase to
a corridor 25 ft. broad from E. to
W., you come to a court under the
Grand Dome which was the throne-
room, and is at present used as a
district law court, but is intended to
be reserved hereafter for public meet-
ings. It is 61 ft. in diameter, and
73 ft. high to the internal apex of
the dome. Outside round the dome
are galleries where the ladies in
Tirumal's time sate and watched the
state receptions. To the W. of the
grand dome is another domed chamber,
now being restored for the reception
of the Collector's records and treasure.
It is 36 ft. broad from E. to W., by
62 ft. long from N. to S., and 47 ft.
high to the apex of the dome. N.
and S. of the grand dome are smaller
domes. That on the S. has been com-
pletely restored, while that on the N.
is untouched, and affords a good means
for comparing the old colouring with
the restored. A portion of the Palace
to the W. of the N. small dome is at
present temporarily built up to form
the judge's record room. Passing
northward to the W. of this you come
to what is called Tirumal's bedroom,
which is intended to form the Judge's
Court. It is 70 ft. broad from N. to
a, and 126 ft. long from E. to W.
The W. end has in part f^en in.
When that side is restored it will
form the main entrance to the Court.
The height of this chamber ia 53 ft. 9 in.

At present there are 4 holes in the
middle of the roof, 2 on either side,
and between the 2 on the S. side itf
a large open hole. There is a legend
that Tirumal's cot was suspended from
hooks fixed in the 4 holes, and that
the large hole between the 2 S. holes
was made by a thief who descended
from it by the chain supporting that
comer of the cot, and stole the crown
jewels. Tirumal is said to have offered
an hereditary estate to the thief, if he
would restore the jewels, adding that
no questions would be asked. On re-
covering the jewels he kept his word,
but ordered the man to be decapitated.
To the E. of the bedroom is an octa-
gonal domed room at present used as a
Mulj^ammadan school, but intended to
be the Judge's private room. A domed
room near it in the centre of the N.
side is to be the Mun^if 's Court, and
opposite to it will be the District
Engineer's Office. All these domes
have been already strengthened with
iron ties, and are to be still further
strengthened. At the S.W. comer of
the building is a staircase leading to
the roof, whence a view over Madura
may be had. Close to the foot of this
staircase is a door leading into the
Magistrate's Court, which is perhaps
the most elegant part of the Palace,
and has been completely restored. On
the S. side of it are 2 black basaltic
pillars, monoliths 18 ft. high, and 8 ft.
8 in. round. The wall and verandah
to the W. of these pillars are of recent
construction, and it is surprising how
the building stood while they were
wanting, as there was nothing but
cohesion to support the arches. The
ends of the arches are left projecting
from the new wall, and show the
state of the building in this part
before that wall was built. There are
some unsightly houses near the Palace
which are to be removed, and when
that is done and the repairs are finished
this will be one of the finest public
buildings in India.

The Engliifji Church. — In coming
from the t. b. to the Palace "5<5«. ^-wisk
the Eiig\i&\i CVwa^, ^\s!L^ S& ^^-^
, being \>. \>t 'iltt. C>Da^o\Tc^> ^:s.,.,';^o&.iv
\ money bec^ie^ietL^ V^ ^^- ^v^f2aR:t^ ^

218

Route 6. — Trichindpalli to Madura,

Sect. 11.

. "ft building

former well-known resident at Madura.
It stands in an open space in the
middle of the town, S.W. of the Great
Pagoda.

The Tamkam,— To the N. of the

River Vaigai, which flows due N. of

the city, and about 1 m. from the

, 'causeway which crosses the river, is

^J>uilding called the Tamkani^ b. by

" " for exhibiting fights between

}ts and gladiators. It is a

building, interesting only on

account of the purpose for which it

was used. v /^

The Cheat Pagoda,'-*Vfe shall, per-
haps, be justified in supl^sing that a
pagoda was b. at Madura contempora-
neously with, if it did not precede
the founding a city there. If so, (see
Chronological Tables) we must assign
a date of about 3 centuries B.C. to
the original temple, for Madura was
b. by the Pandyan King* Kula Shekh-
ara. But it cannot be doubted that
the oldest part of the present pagoda
is long subsequent to that date. For,
not to speak of what natural decay

. mu.^t have effected in the lapse of 18
centuries, we know that in 1324 Malik
NAib Kdfiir invaded the province of
Madura, and pulled down all the
building except the Vim^nah, and the
parts immediately adjacent. But if
the Hindiis admit that all but the
inner sanctuary was destroyed, it may
be reasonably doubted whether that
part, the most obnoxious of all to the
Muslims, was allowed to remain. How-
ever, be that as it may, we are certain
that all the most beautiful portions of
the pagoda as it now stands were b.
by Ttnimala N4ik in the first half of
the ITthjoentuiy. This vast building,
said to be the largest pagoda in the
world, is situated about a m. W. of
the t. b. and the Rly. Stat. It con-
sists of 2 parts, a pagoda to Mindhshi,
"the fish-eyed goddess," from mind
a fish, and akshi eye, said in Wilson's
Skr. Diet, to be the daughter of Kuvera,
the Hindii Plutus, but here recognized
as the consort of Shiva, on the E. side,

and one to Shiva, here called Sun-
dareshwoTf on the W, siAe, You enter
l^ the gate of Jtfin^shi's Temple,
through a. corridor recently painted!,

about 30 ft. long, which is called the
Hall of the 8 Lakshmis, from 8 statues
of that goddess, which form the sup-
ports of the roof on either side, where
various dealers ply their trade. On
the rt. of the gateway is an image of
Subrahmanya, one of Shiva's sons,
otherwise called Skanda or Kdrtti-
keya, the Hindii Mars. On the 1. is
an image of Ganesh, and both are
carved out of black or blackened
stone. Passing the gateway you pro-
ceed W. by S., and enter a stone
corridor with 3 rows of pillars, 3 deep
on either side. The corridor before
passing the gateway is called in Skr.
the Ashfa Lakshml Mandapani, and
this 2nd corridor the Mind kshi Ndya lika
Mandajpam, having been b. by MIn4k-
shi Ndyakka, Diwan of a ruler of
Madura, who preceded Tirumala. The
pillars have for capitals the curved
plantain-flower bracket so general at
BljAnagar. This is said by some to
be the Hindii Cornucopia. To the rt.
of the corridor is what is called Muda
or Muttu Panyshi's Mandapam, after
a Hindii of rank who resided at Shiva-
ganga. The length of this 2nd cor-
ridor is 166 ft. At the end of it is a
large door of brass, which has places to
hold many lamps that are lighted at
night. You continue walking round due
W., and next pass through a dark corri-
dor under a small Gopura. This ends
in one broader with more light, which
has 3 figures on either side carved
with great spirit. The 1st is a chief's
attendant dancing, with a face won-
derfully expressive of glee, like that
of a Highlander dancing a reel. The
2nd figure has 4 arms, and holds with
one hand a weapon, with another a
cup, with a 3rd a club, and with the
4th caresses a dog, though this animal
is so badly executed that some main-
tain it is a pig. The 3rd is the figure
of a chief's attendant. Similar figures
are on the 1. You now enter a quad-
rangle with a Tejypa- Knlam, said by
Nelson (Manual, Pt. 3, p. 167) to be a
stone tank b. for the purpose of draw-
ing a teppantf that is a raft lighted
up witVi blue and red fires, round it.
There \a & Mai>dapam Sxv \>aa Qs:afctQ. of
its Is^e. . IBiete ^OTasa \i^>i}ftR. ^Wi^

Sect. 11.

Houte 6, — Madura,

219

much abandon. This tank is called
Swama-pHshpa-Mrini or Patramarai,
" Tank of the golden lilies " (see Nelson,
Manual, Pt. 3, p. 1 4. ) The water is dark
green. Observe here, a little chapel
(Nelson's Gazetteer, Part 3, p. 237) b. by
Queen Mangammdl, who was seized and
starved to death by her subjects about
1706 A.D., food being placed so near
that she could see and smell, but not
touch it. A statue of a young man,
her lover, the Brdhman Achchaya, may
be seen in the chapel on the W. side
of the golden-lily-tank, and in a pic-
ture on the ceiling of the chapel there
is a portrait of the same person oppo-
site to one of the Queen. Round it
runs a corridor, the roof of which is
supported by pillars on the side next
the water. On the S. and E. sides
the walls of the corridor are painted
with the representations of the most
famous pagodas in India. Thus on
the E. side is depicted the Pagoda of
Trinomali, with a number of votaries
ascending the high and steep hill on
which it is b. They are shown in
fantastic attitudes, skipping, dancing
with their legs high in the air. On
the top of the moimtain blazes a huge
cauldron of clarified butter set on fire.
The whole might do well for a scene
in Dante's Inferno. At the S.E. comer
is shown the Pagoda of. Shrirangam,
and next to it is that of RAmeshwaram,
with a circumambient sea on which
ships are sailing. On the N. side arc
paintings of a gross character repre-
senting the 64 Miracles of Sundaresh-
war, for which see Nelson's Manual,
Pt. 3. Sundareshwar is represented
with a golden Lin gam of prodigious
size, and his 64 miracles are partly
ridiculous absurdities, partly disgust-
ing on worse grounds. From the S.
side of the corridor a very good view
is obtained of the different towers of
the gopuras. One sees on the S.
side, and arising from it a very fine
gopura over 100 ft. high, but not so
lofty as the double gopura which is
seen a long way off on the W. side.
Close in front to the W. is seen the
golden-plated shrine of MinAkshi,
which rises about 10 ft, above the
corridor. On the }^.W, side are the

I belfrey, with an American bell of fine
' tone, and the VimAnah of Sundaresh-
war, higher than that of bis consort,
and likewise plated with gold, or
copper gilt, the similarly plated flag-
st^, and the Mutta Gopura, which,
perhaps on account of its yatst biilk,<
does not seem so lofty as the doable
gopura, though in fact it is higher.
There is also on the N. side about 100
yds. off from the corridor of the gf^ldpn-
lily tank, a gopura called "the Bald,"
because it Ims no top like the others,
the summits of which are shaped thus
rt. It is truncated. At the S.W. .
comer of the corridor is the office of
the pagofla where the acxx>unts aro
kept. On the 16th of March 1878,
they were busy repairing the corridor,
and the sides and the steps of the
tank had all been handsomely relined
with granite. The visitor now passes
down the "W. side of the corridor, at
the N. end of which is the Vimdnah
of Mln^shi. The E. and W. sides of "
the outer inclosure of this adytum are
190 ft. long, and the N. and S. sides
220 ft. The temple itself, in which is
the adytum, is about 80 ft. broad N.
and S., and 140 ft. long E. and W.
This W. part of the corridor is called
the XiUj)puttu Mandapa/niy or Saneli
, Mandapam, and it is adorned with 12
: very spirited figures, which form pillars
on either side, 6 of them being the
I Yali, a strange monster which is the
' conventional lion of the South. Some-
times he is represented with a long
snout or proboscis. These are so ar-
j ranged that between every 2 of them
I is a figure of one of the 5 Pdndu
brothers. First on the rt. is Yud-
hishthir, and opposite to. him on the
1. is Arjuna with his famous bow.
Then come Sahadeva on the rt., and
Nakula on the 1. Then follows Bhima
on the rt. with his club, and opposite
to him, on the 1. is the shrine of the
goddess, and the figure of a Dw&rp^.
The ceiling of this Mandapam is painted ,
but the colours have faded so much that
one cannot make out what is the scene
depicted. JOn the back wall ot tba.
Sange\i 'NLvcix^tt^^xi^. \Jsyesfe S& «»>. OA.
Tamil mecdT^XkraL ^^tj ^xi«3a. ^^'^^*

220

HotUe 6. — Trichindpalli to Madura, Sect. II.

the Miniksbi temple into that of Sun-
dareshwar, by the Sangeli Mandapam
which leads into the corridor of the
other temple. At the end of this
corridor 8 steps are ascended into the
Aruvatti Mnrar, the Temple of the
Bishis, a small chamber on the S. side
of Sundareshwar*s Temple, in which
are : Ist. The Lingam in the Yoni, called
in TamU Iraiyandr; 2. Akraperiya-
vandi, the Dumb Saint ; 3. Agastya ;

4. Nakkiran, chief of 48 sages ; 5.
Kapila ; 6. Faranar ; 7. Mamulavar ;
8. VallAdar ; 9. Titalai Malanar ; 10.
Samutura; 11. N&gatavan ; 12. Arisi-
kir&r ; 13. Kamudiyar ; 14. Kitama-
nar; 15. Nallatanar; 16. Muyaigahdr;
17. Arisiyanallatuyan&r ; 18. Eirutaydr.
The Sambdnh&r, or chief of the tem-
ple, possesses a book in which these
and other names of Rishis worshipped
at this temple will be found. Outside
this are many idols with their heads
knocked off, and otherwise disfigured,
but still too sacred to be ejected from
the holy precincts. The visitor now
turns E. along another corridor till he
comes to a small temple on the 1.,
where are the figures of the Mahd-
satras. They are placed in 3 rows
one above the other, and are all in a
sitting posture, except the 9th, which
is represented as a serpent with a
man's head. The name of the 1st on
the 1. hand of the uppermost row is
Budh ; 2. Sukkiran or Brihu ; 3. Chan-
dran or Soma, the moon ; 4. Guru ;

5. Siirion or Manu, the sun ; 6. Angd-
rakan or Gujan ; 7. Ketu ; 8. Sani or
Mandha ; 9. Bdgu. Along the S. cor-
ridor is an inscription in Tamil. On
the rt. is Sundareshwar's shrine, in front
of which are some spirited figures. On
the 1. is a group which is often re-
peated, and is founded on, a well-
known legend : a woman is embracing
and fondling a Lingam, and Death,
who was intending to make iher his
victim, is trampled under foot by
Shiva, who with one foot has rup-
tured Tama's (Death's) neck. At the
end is the marriage of Shiva Sunda-

jvsli war to Fdrrati, She stands between

jSIijra and Kfif^bna, who is giving

tAe bride away, ThiB ia very weU

^^ecuted. On the pedestal on which

this group stands is the Ifom, or sacri-
ficial fire. There are 4 other fine
pieces of sculpture. On the r. of the
spectator is Ist, KAl, or DurgA slaughter-
ing down victims, and to the 1. of her
is Shiva dancing the Tdndev or Dance
of the Destroyer. L. of this again is
Vira Bhadra, (Vira "hero," hliadra
"auspicious") an inferior manifesta-
tion of Shiva, or according to some
his son Skanda, slaying his enemies,
and Ugra, or " the terrible one," also
slaughtering foes. The Vimdnah is
dark. The belfrey is to the B. of it.
The bells' sound is like that of the
finest church bells. The Dhwaja
Stambha is close to the belfrey. S.E.
of the groups just described are the
chambers where the Vdhanas or vehi-
cles of Minakshi and Sundareshwar
are kept. They are plated with gold.
There are 2 golden pdlkis or litters,
worth Bs. lOjCKK) each, and 2 with rods
to support canopies worth Rs. 12,000
each. There are also vehicles plated
with silver, such as a Ilansa or" Swan,"
a Nandi or " bull." Those who desire
to see the jewels must give notice a day
or two previously. The visitor will
now pass en the N. side the Saliasra-
stami Jul- Mandapam f or " Hall of 1000
Pillars." There are in fact 997, but
many are hid from view, as the in-
tervals between them have been bricked
up to form granaries for the Pagoda.
This hall was b. by Ariandyakkam Mu-
daH, Minister of the Founder of the
dynasty of the NAyaks. His figure
stands on the 1. of the entrance. He
is represented sitting gracefully on a
rearing horse. In the row behind him
are some spirited figures of men and
women, or male and female deities
dancing. The females have dispro-
portionately small waists, and large
breasts, and the faces of males and
females alike are very ugly, with thin
and pointed features. The men have
very thin, pointed moustaches. The
next thing is to ascend the Great
Gopura, which is on the E. side about
50 yds. to the S. of the 1000 pillared
Hall, and is kept clean, and has no
bad BmeVla. T\i^ st&icceuse is in the wall.
There aie 1 flig\A.a ol 'i^ -v \V^*i^ ^x.'ev^
\ to thelBt p\fttioTm,A-\^^o>i?wi'iTA'»'V\^

Sect. IT.

Rouie 6. — Madura,

221

to the 3rd, +22 to the 4th, +21 to the
6th, +22 to the 6th, + 22 to the 7th, +
21 to the 8th, + 20 to the 9th, + 10
wooden steps to the top =215 steps.
The height is to Ist platform 86 ft.

9 in. + 52 ft. 3 in. to 5th platform +
34 ft. 9 in. to 8th platfonn,+ 10 ft.
6 in. to 9th platform, + 18 ft. 4 in. to
summit =152 ft. 7 in. This gopura,
therefore, is not nearly so high as that
at Hamp^. The steps are very steep,
and at the end of them there is an
interval of 5 ft., where the visitor
must raise himself by his hands to
the sill of the orifice at the top, where
he can sit and look out, but the view
hardly repays one for the trouble.
After this the visitor will cross the
street in front of the gateway of the
Great Gopura on the B. side of the
Pagoda, to see what is called the Pndu
Mandapam or New Gallery, which,
had it been finished, would have sur-
passed in magnificence all the other
buildings of this vast pagoda. At p. 361
of Mr. Fergusson's "Architecture *' there
is a plan of this gallery or choultry, as
it is there called, and at p. 363 a view
of it. According to the plan it is 333
ft. long by 105 ft. broad, measured on
the stylobate. Measuring with a tape
I found it to be 270 ft. long, but the
breadth given by Mr. Fergusson I
believe to be correct. There are 4
rows of pillars, and on either side of
the centre corridor 5 pillars represent

10 of the Ndyakkan dynasty, viz. Vis-
wandth, Kumara Kp^hnappa, Peria
Vidappa, VishwanAth, Lingama, Vis-
nappa, Kasthuii Kangappa, Muttu
Kiri§hnappa, Mutta Vidappa, Tirumal.
Tirumal is distinguished by having a
canopy over him, and 2 figures at his
back, the figure on the 1. being his
wife, the Princess of Tanjiir. On the
1. of the doorway is a siagular group
representing one of the Ndyakkas (see
Cbron. Tables) shooting a wild boar
and sows, according to the legend,
which says that Shiva commiserated
the litter of little pigs, took them up
in his arms, and assuming the shape
of the sow suckled them. A portly
figure, either that of Shiva or the
NAjaklra, is seen holding up the dozen

Jj'ttJe pigs. This Hall was erected

1623-1645, and is said to have cost a
million sterling.

The Madura Pagoda, the interior of
which has been &us described, is a
parallelogram of which the E. and W.
sides are 744 ft. long, and the N. and
S. sides 847 ft. There are 9 towers or
Gopuras, viz., 1 on the E. side which
may be called the Great Gopura; 2
on the N. side, an inner and an outer,
the outer being the Motta Gopura ;
2 on the W. side, of which the inner is
named the Palagri; 1 on the S. side ; 1
small one, inside this last, about 80 ft.
to the E. of the Teppa Eulam ; 1 in
the centre of the whole enclosure E.
of the N. wall of the outer enclosure
of Mindkshi's temple, and 1 in the
E. wall of the outer enclosure of
Sundareshwar's temple =9. The en-
trance to the temple is by the gopura
on the E. side, and having entered
you have the Hall of 1000 Pillars on
your rt. in the N.E. comer of the
enclosure, and beyond it to the W. i^
Sundareshwar's temple. On the 1.
you have the Ashta Lakhshmi Manda-
pam leading into Min^kshi N&yakka's
Mandapam with Mutta Bdmalinga's
Mandapam to the rt. or N., and still
further to the N. Madurappa Servai-
gdru's Mandapam, and to the S. a
garden. W. of these is Tirurach6's
Mandapam with the Bdzdr for sweet-
meats on the rt. or N., and further to
the N. Kalydna SundaraMudali's Man-
dapam. W. again of these is Irudhala's
Mandapam, and that opens into the
corridors round the Golden Lily Lake,
which is the same shape as the grand
enclosure of the temple, the N. and S.
sides being 180 ft. long, and the E.
and W. 160 ft. W. of the Tank is
the temple of Mindkshi, which is
much smaller than that of Sundaresh-
war. The space round the outer
enclosure of the temple is called Chitra
Yidhi or April Street, and that inside
the enclosure Adi Vidhi or July Street,

Teppa Knlam Tank, — N. of the Vai-
gai r., and close to the collector's house,
which is built on a bank formed by
the eaith excavated from the tank^ is
a fine Teppa KuXam. 'Y>Ckfc^. 'ksA.'^*
sides are 9^5\ i^, Ica^, «x^^ >;iG&^. «»^^
W. sides ^4^, T^^^^^'t^^ o^^C^^vi^^^

222

Bovte 7. — Madura to Tinnevelli,

Sect. IL

of March, 1878, was 7 ft. deep, but in
1877 the tank was quite dry. The
fashionable drive of Madura is round
this tank, which is fenced with stone,
and has a temple in the centre.

Cheat Banyan Tree, — In the com-
pound of the judge's house is a fine
specimen of the F'lmis indica. The
main stem has been much mutilated,
but is still 70 ft. in circumference.
The ground shaded by this tree has a
diameter of 180 ft. in whatever direc-
tion you measure it.

ROUTE 7.

MADUBA TO TINNEVELLI, OOJ M.
TO KUTALLAM, 38 M.

«*

Stations.

•|

Remarks.

A. v.

Dep.

Maiiuka to

6.15 The heat is in-|

1. Tiruparangun-

tense after the

djam . .

6.37

beginning of

2. Tirumangalam

ei; 7.8

March, and

3. Kallikudi

7.49

the journey

4. Virdupatti . .

8.21

should not be

6. Tulukupatti .

10}

9.7

attempted be-

6. Sattiir . .

9.36

tween Ist of

7. Kovilpatti .
& Kumurapuram

10.33

March and

11.2

15th of Nov.

9. Kadarabiir . .

11.32

10. ManiachiJimc-

Arr.

tlou . .'10

P.M.

Railway turns

12.12

off to the left,

Dep.

or in other

12.40

words, to the

11. TinneveUi . .

2.0

S. to Tutiko-
rin.

Toial . .'90 J

The temple at Tinnevelli, though as

Mr,FerguB8on sajs (pp.366-7)," neither

BZDongthelargestnoT the most splendid

^S, India, baa the advantage of having

eeen bailt on one plan, and at one

time, without subsequent alteration or
change." It is, therefore, deserving a
visit, and it is besides only 10 m. out
of the way of a traveller going to visit
Tutikorin either to see a place where
the pearl fishery is still at certain
seasons carried on, or to take boat from
thence to RAmeshwaram on the one
side, or to cross to Ceylon on the
other. Tinnevelli is also the seat of
an interesting mission which has done
much for the education of the Indians
of the locality.

TinneveUi is situated in 8° 48' N.
lat., 78° 1' E. long, on the 1. b. of the
Tambrapumi R. and IJ m. from it.
It is 2 J m. from the stat. of Palam-
kottei, which is on the r. b. of the
r. and 1 m. from it. A bridge of 1 1
arches of 60 ft. span each, erected by
Sulochenam Mudelidr, crosses the
stream. Tinnevelli is the capital of a
coUectorate of the same name, con-
taining 5176 sq. m., and extending to
Cape Kum4rl (Comorin), with a pop.
of 1,693,959, of whom 102,576 aie
Christians. It is a remarkable fact
that in the last 20 years, while the
Hindiis have increased by 33 per cent.,
and the Muslims by 10*5 per cent., the
Christians have increased by 74 per
cent. Of the Christians 52,780 are
Catholics, and 49,796 Protestants. The
1st Protestant convert was baptized
in this province by Schwarz in 1785.
In 1820 the Church Miss. Soc. estab-
lished here a mission stat. The culti-
vators are by far the most numerous
caste in this coUectorate, the Vell&lars
numbering 341,331 and the Vannians
367,889. The ShdndrsnumhcT 291,053,
and many of them have become con-
verts to Christianity.

Tinnevelli is a municipal town,
with a pop. of 21,044. The Pagoda is
580 ft.* broad from E. to W., and 756
ft. long from N. to S. It is like the
temple at Madura, divided into 2 parts,
of which the S. half is dedicated to
Pdrvatl the Consort of Shiva, and the
N. to Shiva himself. There are 3 gate-
ways or gopuras to either half, those
on the E. being the principal, and
having porchea outside them. After

Sect. IL

Rowte 7. — Fdlamhottai — Kutallam.

223

entering, you have in front an internal
porch of large dimensions, on the rt.
of which is a Teppa Xulanif and on
the 1. a 1000-pillared hall, which runs
nearly the whole breadth of the
enclosure, and is 63 ft, broad. There
are 100 rows of pillars 10 deep. The
inner enclosure, where the adytum is,
is 200 ft. long from E. to W., and 160
ft. broad from N. to S. The sole
entrance is on the E. face.

PalamJtottai is a municipal town,
with a pop. of 17,945, and is within
an easy drive or walk from Tinnevelli.
The fort stands about 120 ft. above
the plain, is built on a naked rock,
but abundantly supplied with well-
water. Between the bridge over the
TAmbrapumi and the fort stands the
church of the Church Missionary So-
ciety, the tower and spire of which
is 110 ft. high. A road to the beau-
tiful waterfalls of Kutallam and
Pdpandsham passes through Palam-
kottai and Tinnevelli, and the follow-
ing are the stages :

Distances.
M. p. From

From Madura Gate at Falamkottai.

Palamkottai to Tdm-
brapumi r. bank ..13
Ditto, L bank . . 1^
TinnevelU . . . 1 sj
+ Boad to Papandsham 2^

Tinnevelli ends
Kangyamkolam

Allankolam .

+ Chitrawati

Tenkdslii .
Kutallam

5^
5 2

r. to

15 2
3

•m. F. ( Small
9 21 village.

1" *1 village.

18 2

Total . . . 38 Milts.

Kutallam is a delightful summer
residence. It is a large place, and
much resorted to by the European
residents at Tinnevelli. It is not
elevated, but the S.W. winds pass
over it through a chasm in the W.
Ghdts, and bring with them coolness
and moisture, so that the temperature
of this favoured spot is from 10° to
15** lower than that of the arid plains
beyond. The place is particularly
enjoyable in June, July, and August,
In February, March, April, and May,
U JB not BO pleasant. The proper name

of the place is Trilnitah, "three-
peaked," from the Sanskrit tri "three,"
kiitah " peak." There are 3 falls, the
highest being 1000 ft. above the sea.
The well-known cataracts are close
to the bangles. The lowest cataract
falls from a height of 200 ft., but is
broken midway. The water descends
from a projecting rock in the channel
of the Syldr r., which rises in the
hills immediately N. of Pulierri. The
average temperature of the water is
from 72° to 75° Fahr., and invalids
derive great benefit from bathiDg in
it. The bathing place is under a fine
shelving rock, which affords the most
delightful shower-bath possible. The
water of these hill streams is singularly
clear and pure, and, falling rapidly
over boulders and rocks, acquires so
much oxygen, that bathiDg beneath
the waterfalls is wonderfully refresh^
ing and invigorating. Hence no doubt
the simple folk of the locality have
been induced to attribute to the waters
a spiritually cleansing as well as phy-
sically refreshing efEect. The scenery ^
is strikingly picturesque, being a happy
mixture of bold rocks and umbrageous
woods.

The road from Palamkottai to PA-
pandsham {Pdpa ' sin,' ndttharti * effac-
ing '), is shorter than that to Kutallam, j
being as follows : —

M. F.

X the Tdmbrapiimi and Tambami r.,
the latter 220 yards wide, to Vydini-
denKovil 14 4

X the Kur6 A'r r., 220 yards wide, to
F&pandsham Kovil and Cataract . 15

Total . . 29 4

The height of this Cataract is only
80 ft., but the body of water is greater
than at Kiitallam. The Timbrapumi
r. here takes its last fall near a pagoda
from. the hills to the level country.
The climate is inferior to that of
Kiitallam. Fish are fed here by the 1/
Brdhmans, and are quite tame. The ^
TAmbrapumi rises 22 m. to the W. at
the Angastir Mallai Peak, which is
6200 ft. high, and is one of the highest
in the W. Ghdts. P4pandsham lies
due W. ot Tvim^N^\!^\^*5A'SE»ia^'^^«s^

22i

Route 8. — Tinnevelli to Tutikonn,

Sect II.

ROUTE 8.

TINNEVELLI TO TUTIKORIN, 33 M. BY
BAIL, AND BAMESHWABAM, 8 M. BY
BOAT.

The visitor will now return from
Tinnevelli to Mani&chi Junction by
rail, 10 m. He will then travel, also
by S. India Rly. to Tutikonn as
follows : —

p. M.

Hanidchi Junction to Shattapumifdep. 12 12

arr. 1

Tatlkorin arr. 1 40

Distance, 23 m.

Tutikorin is a municipal town with
a pop. of 10,565. It was famous for
its pearl fishery, which extended from
Cape Kumdri to the lowlands of
Shiaal. CaBsar Frederick, who visited
India 1563—1581, tells us that the
fishing begins in March or April, and
lasts 60 days. It is seldom or never
in the same exact spot during two con-
secutive years ; but when the season
approaches good divers are sent to
examine where the greatest number
of oysters are to be foimd, and when
they have settled that point, a village
is built of stone opposite to it, should
there have been no village there pre-
viously, and an influx of people and of
the necessaries of life follows. The
fishers and divers are all Christians of
the country. He adds : —

" During the continuance of the
fishery there are always 3 or 4 armed
foists or galliots stationed to defend
the fishermen from pirates. Usually

^ the fishing boats unite in companies of
3 or 4. These boats resemble our
pilot boats at Venice, but are some-
what smaller, having 7 or 8 men each.
I have seen of a morning a great
number of these boats go out to fish,
anchoring in 16 or 18 fathoms water,
which is the ordinary depth along this
coast. When at anchor they cast a
rope into the sea, having a great stone
at one end. Then a man, having his
ears well stopped, and his body

anointed with oil, and a basket hang-

jw^ to bis neck or under his 1. arm,

^oes down to the bottom of the sea

along the rope, and fills the basket
with oysters as fast as he can. When
it is full he shakes the rope, and his
companions draw him up with the
basket. The divers follow each other
in succession in this manner, till the
boat is loaded with oysters, and they
return at evening to the fishing village.
Then each boat or company makes
their heap of oysters at some distance
from each other, so that a long row of
great heaps of oysters is seen piled
along the shore. These are not touched
till the fishing is over, when each
company sits down beside its own
heap, and falls to opening the oysters,
which is now easy, as the fish within
are all dead and dry. If every oyster
had pearls in it, it would be a profita-
ble occupation, but there are many
which have none. There are certain
persons called Chitiniwho are learned
in pearls, and are employed to sort
and value them according to their
weight, beauty, and goodness, dividing
them into 4 sorts. The 1st, which
are round, are named aia of Po7'tugalf
as they are bought by the Portuguese.
The 2nd, which are not round, are
named aia of Bengal. The 3rd,
which are inferior to the 2nd, are
called aia of Kanara, which is the
name of the Kingdom of Bijdnagar,
or Narsinga, into which they are sold.
And the 4th, or lowest kind, are called
aia of Cambaia, being sold into that
country. Thus sorted and a price
affixed to each, there are merchants
from all countries ready with their
money, so that in a few days all the
pearls are bought up, according to
their goodness and weight." (Kerr's
Voyages and Travels, vol. 8.)

Owing, it is said, to the deepening
of the Paumban Channel, these banks
no longer produce the pearl oysters,
but shank snells are still found and ex-
ported to Bengal. Small schooners sail
twice or thrice a week from Tutikorin
to Ceylon, whence a passage may be
had in a small steamer to the coast
opposite B^meshwaram, and the temple
at the latter place may thence be
visited in. a boat, or a boat may be
hired at TxitVk^OTva \jq ^"c^ X-o ^kcaauV
woram. direct, lt» ia, ^lOi^^Net^ ^I^ksl

Sect. II.

liovie 9. — Rdmndd,

225

impossible to land near Rdmcshwaram
on account of the surf. Although,
therefore, the land journey from
Madura is very slow and wearisome,
it is, perhaps, the better rte. to
Rdmeshwaram, and is as follows : —

ROUTE 9.

MADUEA TO rImNAD AND BAME8H-
WARAM, 105 M. 4 P.

Names of
Stations.

Miles
&Fs.

Bemarks.

Madura to m. f.

1. Tinipuwauam, 6.

12 4

Vaigai r. close on

and p. s.

1. all the way,
small village.

2. Mutanandal, c/mt-

10 7

Small village,

train.

Vaigai close as
before.

3. xVaigair. 200 yd.

wide to Mauna

Madurai,c7j.««raTO 6 5

Do., do.

4. Pudukottai . .

9 2

Do., do.

5. X Vaigair. 2Jfur.

)

wide, to Pemia-!

gudi .

6 2 Large village, r.

1 as before.

6. Pokalur . . .

12 6 Small liandct.

7. Rdninad W. Gate,

6. and p, s.

10 2 Tiarge town.

8. Ndgacbi . . .

13 7 Small hamlet.

9. Maiidapani . .10 4jOnly 1 shop.

10. Pdraham ?;, . .| 6 Small village.

11. Kdmeshwaram .

Total . .

105 4

Ramudd, in lat. 9" 24', long. 78° 49',
is the capital of a Zaminddri contain-
ing 1900 sq. m., and a pop. of 504,131
persons, and bounded on the N. by
Tanjiir and the Zaminddrl of Sheva-
ganga, on the S. and E. by the sea,
and on the W. by part of Shevaganga
and Tinnevelli. The pop. of the town
and fort of BdmnM is about 14,000.
The Fort is a sc^uare, each side of whicli

is 1 m. long. The wall is 27 ft. high
and 5 ft. thick, and single, but has
32 bastions at equal di^nces from
each other, and 1 gateway on the E.
On the N.W. is a large tank, con-
structed, as was the wall, about the
year 1686, by the S6tupati Raghunith,
whose sobriquet was KUavan, *the
old man.' The palace of this worthy
stands about 200 yds. from the gate of
the Fort. On the N.E. bank of the
tank is a small Protestant church, with
a cemetery. On the W. bank of the
tank are the tombs which contain the
ashes of the S6tupatis, close to the
spot where their bodies underwent
cremation. E. of the tank is a lai^e
house which belonged to Colonel
Martinez, who commanded the garri-
son before 1804. On the N. between
the Tank and the Fort is a high
earthen mound bordered with a para-
pet and furnished with embra^res,
whence there is a wide view over the
plains. Colonel Martinez built a
Catholic chapel in 1799, near the S.E.
angle of the Fort, in the centre of
wMch stands a Hindii temple. The
Fort contains 5000 inhab., and a largo
part of the pop. of the town resides
near the principal entrance of the
Fort and on the E. side of the walls.
The bdzdr is built in 2 rows of shops
with tiled roofs. The town is E. of
the Fort, and including the suburb of
Lakshmipuram, where there is a hand-
some temple, is 2J m. in circumfer-
ence.

The inhab. of the Zamlnddris of
Rdmndd and Shevaganga are called
Maravas, and are the oldest caste in the
country, and by some thought to be
Aborigines. Their customs are very
peculiar. At p. 354 of the 4th vol. of
the " Madras Journal," will be found
an elaborate description of these people
translated by the Rev. Mr. Taylor from
the Marava-Tdthi Varnanam, There
are 7 sub-divisions of the caste :
1. Sembii-ndttu ; 2. Kondagan-Kattu ;
3. Apaniir-vdtten ; 4. Agatd ; 5. Onir-
ndttu ; 6. Upu-Kottei ; 7. Kurichi-
Kattu.' The 1st is the chief divisLocL.
The 'NLs;xa'^«j& csiXV ^Csi<5iTD«^^^'^K^:'^'i^^^
but lYiey 7tot^\^v ^^1 ^^"^^"^"t^

226 BotUe %,-^Madurci to Udinndd and Rdmeslmaram, Sdct. 11.

and other demons whom they pro-
pitiate with spirits, flesh and fruit.
They allow cousins, the children of 2
brothers, to marry. Widows remarry,
and even wives who cannot agree with
their husbands, get divorced and marry
again. Sati was practised in the fami-
lies of the Sdtupati, and generally in
the Sembii-ndttu sub-division, but not
in the others. After the chiefs of 2
families agree that a marriage shall
take place between 2 members of the
family, some relations of the bride-
groom go to the girl's home and tie on
her neck the t&li or symbol of marriage,
with or without his and her consent.
Then follow certain ceremonies, and
if the bridegroom be too poor to carry
them out, he has " to cure the defect,"
as they call it, at some future time.
Should he die, his friends borrow money
and complete the marriage on behalf
of the corpse, which is seated with the
bride till the ceremony is over.

The dress of the Maravans is pecu-
liar. Handkerchiefs are worn round
the head, and should a turban be put
on, it is never tied. The men wear
their hair very long. Both men and
women stretch the lobes of their ears
several inches by attaching and insert-
ing heavy weights. Properly, every
Maravan male should be a soldier, and
hold his lands by military tenure. A
swordsman or spearsman used to have
a piece of land that would yield 5
halams of rice a year ; a musketeer as
much as would bring 7 kalavus; a
larboji what brought 9 ; and a captain
of 100 men, land that yielded 50. For
each Italani, 5 fanams were paid the
chief as tribute.

The S6tu-pati, * Lord of the Bridge,'

was the chief or king of the

Maravans. The 1st S^tupati is said

to have been appointed by Rdmah.

His office was to guard the bridge of

rocks which crosses the Gulf of Mandr

to Ceylon. His rank was so high

(Nelson's Manual, Pt. II., p. 41), that

the Tondiman Rdjd or Rajd of Pudu-

kottei, the Rdjd of Shevaganga, and

ihe 28 chiefs of Tanjiir were bound to

stand before him with the palms of

their hands joined in an attitude of rc-

^/^ect. The TumeroHi chiefs, such as

the Katab6ma Ndyakkan, were to pros-
trate themselves at full length before
the S^tupati, and after rising could
not seat themselves in his presence.
But the Sillava chiefs and those of
Ettiyapiiram, and the Marava chiefs
of Vadagarai, Shokanpatti, Uttamalei
Setturu, Sarandai, and other places
made no obeisance to the Ruler of
Ramnad.

Of the ancient history of the S^tu-
patis of Ramndd but little is known.
Muttu Kpshnappa, the Kin g of Madura,
who began to reign in 1602, re-esta-
blished the Maravan dynasty in the
person of Sadeika Tdvan Udaiydn, who
was a wise and vigorous ruler. He died
in 1G21, and his son Kuttan succeeded
him. The " Gazetteer "of Madura says,
" There is a considerable amount of
evidence, which appears to support the
claim to high antiquity put forward
by the royal princes of Ramnad."
According to a MS. in the Mac-
kenzie collection, the Maravas came
originally from Ceyloq, and some of
them were made S6tupatis or cus-
todians of the Isthmus of Ramesh-
waram by Rdma. They were long
subject to the Pdndyas, but at last
became their masters, and remained so
for 1 1 generations, and during 3 reigns
ruled over all the S. of India. At last
they were driven to the S. of the Kaveri
by the Kuramba prince of Alakdpilri,
and the Rdjd of Vijayanagar took
from them Tanjiir and Madura. In
those ancient times Virava Nalliir near
the sea, and not far from Ramndd, was
the capital of the S6tupatis. Mr.
Nelson, however, has taken up their
history from the time of Sadeika T^van
above-mentioned. The Sctupati Kuttan
died in 1635, and was succeeded
by Sadeika T6van II., called the
Dalavai Setupati, who 3 years after
appointed his adopted son Raghunatha
Tevan to be his successor. He was
opposed by a bastard son of Kuttan
called Tambi, ' the younger brother,'
who got himself appointed Setupati
by the great Tirumal. Tirumal sent
Rdmappaya and Ranghana Ndyakkam
to eivthTone Tambi, and they stormed

Sect. II.

Soute 9. — Bdmndd,

227

island, where, however, he was at
length captured and thrown into prison
at Madura. This conduct on the part
of Tirumal made him so unpopular,
that he was obliged to restore the
Dalavai Sdtupati, who reigned till
1645, when he was murdered by Tambi.
Tirumal then divided the RdmnAd
territory, giving the Edmndd district
to Raghundtha Tevan, Sevaganga to
Tambi, and Tiruvadanei to Raghu-
natha's younger brothers. Before long
the other chiefs died, and Raghundtha
became sole ruler. In 1653, a great
excitement took place regarding the
advent of a' pretended divine emperor.
This was allayed by the Muslim
Governor of Bengaliir, who cut off the
heads of the (fivine child and his
mother. But even so late as 1866,
masses of the people expected that the
infant would be restored to life, and
reign as Vira Bhoga Vasanta Rdyar.
Some years after this the Maisiir army
invaded Tirumal's dominions, who
called the S^tupati to his aid, and the
latter defeated the Maisiireans with
the loss of 12,000 killed, and drove the
rest out of the Madura territory. For
this the S^tupati obtained the privilege
1 of using the lion-faced palki peculiar
■ to the House of Madura, and was
/ granted the protectorate of the pearl
fishery, with a large increase of terri-
tory. In 1665, Choka Ndtha, King of
Maidura, entered the Marava country,
and took and garrisoned several of
the strong places. Raghundtha S6tu-
pati died about 1685. He was suc-
ceeded by his bastard son, also called
Raghundtha, but known as Kilavan,
* the old man. ' This Setupati on the
4th of Februaiy, 1693, put to death
the celebrated missionary John de
Britto, a nobleman of the Court of
Pedro IV. of Portugal. The Kilavan
was also the Setupati who pulled down
the mud walls of Rdmndd and rebuilt
them of stone. In 1702, the Kilavan
defeated and killed Narasappaya, the
great Dalavai of the Madura Court,
and defeated the combined armies of
Tanjiir and Madura. A Jesuit letter
shows how formidable the Rdmndd
armj then was. It says : —
^'Fresque toutes lea JBourgades et les

terres du Marava (Rdmndd) sont pos-
s^d^es par les plus riches du pays,
moyennant un certain nombre de soldats
qu'ils sont obliges de foumir au prince
toutes les fois qu'il en a besom. Ges
seigneurs sont revocables au gr6 du
prince ; leurs soldats sont lenrs parents,
leurs amis, ou leurs esclaves, qui culti-
vcnt les terres d^pendantes de la
peuplade, et qui prennent les armes
des qu'ils sont requis. De cette
mani^re le prince du Marava pen*
mettre sur pied, en moins de huit
jours, jusqu'd trente et quarante mille
hommes, et par Id il se fait redouter
des princes ses voisins : il a m^me
secou6 le joug du roi de Madur6 dont
il 6tait tributaire."

Having made himself independent
in 1702, the Setupati Kilavan defeated
the King of Tanjur in 1709, though
his country had been reduced to great
distress by a frightful famine. This
dearth was not owing to neglect of
works of irrigation, but solely to want
of rain. Nowhere had more important
reservoirs been constructed tlian in
the province of Madura. One only
need be mentioned, and it is well
worthy of a visit by those who are
interested in these matters. It is
the vast tank of Rdjasiiigamanga-
1am, N. of Rdmndd, which is no less
than 20 m. in circuroference. In spite
of these extraordinary works, Madura
and Rdmndd have been desolated by
the most terrible famines on record.
Thus, the price of rice being in or-
dinary seasons 2^d. for 96 lbs. of
husked rice, in 1713 the price, accor-
ding to Father Martin, had at times
risen to dd. for 12 lbs. In other
words, the price in less than a year
had risen 3200 per cent. On the 18th
of Dec, 1709, the famine was supple-
mented by a cyclone, with such tre-
mendous rain, that all the embank-
ments in the country burst, and in the
dead of night, when it was pitch dark
(Gaz. ©f Madura, Pt. 3, p. 243), a
mighty wave came surging and foam-
ing, bearing along with it the wreck
of houses and churches, trees^ strvw^-

men, ^omen «a!\ OaSX.^^xvO£v^a5&--T>c<$^^
\ CTops ot aW ^ox\,^ \ m tw^'3^^-^'<^^^

228 i&m^e 9. — Madura to Rdmndd and Rdmesliwaram, Sect. 11-

was most valuable and useful in the
country over which it had careered.
Thousands perished miserably in vain
attempts to flee, and the sun rose next
morning upon a sight to move the
hardest to compassion. In every direc-
tion, as far as the eye could reach, the
whole country was submerged, with
the exception of a few high trees,
which rose like islands out of the sur-
rounding waste of waters. Property
of all kinds was being tossed hither
and thither by eddies and currents ;
and innumerable carcases of animals
were being carried along, mingled
with thousands of corpses. But it
was not until the waters had subsided
that the full extent of the damage
could be ascertained. It was then per-
ceived that not only had the rice crops
utterly perished in almost every part of
the KdmnAd kingdom, but many of
the fields in which they grew had
been covered with sand and salt and
rendered useless until cleaned, and a
2nd time prepared for cultivation at a
great expense, and most of the wells
and tanks had been fouled and poi-
soned." In consequence the famine
raged in the Marava country more
furiously than ever in 1710, about
which time the Kilavan died, aged
upwards of 80. His wives, 47 in
number, burned themselves, the first 2
or 3 meeting their fate with resolu-
tion, but the rest made frantic efforts
to escape, filling the air with their
screams. The execrable bystanders
threw heavy faggots on their heads,
and a European soldier, to whom one
of them rushed for protection, cast her

■ off with such force, that she fell head-
long into the midst of the flames.
A righteous vengeance immediately
seized on the wretch, and he died a
few hours after in a burning fever.
The Kilavan was succeeded by his
adopted son, Vijdya Raghu Ndtha, an
unrelenting persecutor of Christians,
while his brother, Vadaya Natha, be-
came a convert. Vijdya died in 1720
of an epidemic which swept away 8
of his children, several of his wives,
and himself. He had 360 wives and

J 00 children; but all of them who
were legitimate perished of disease,

His successor, Thonda T^van, was put
to death by the Tanjiirines, who
stormed Rdmndd and put Bhawdnl
Shankar on the throne. He in his
turn was deposed by the Baja of
Tanjilr, who took all the territory N.
of the Pdmbdr, and gave 3-5ths of the
rest to Kattaya T6van, who was made
S^tupati, with the title of Kumdra
Muttu Vijaya Raghu Natha. The
other 2-5 ths were given to Seshawama
T6van, a famous champion who took
the name of Rdjd Muttu Vijaya Raghu
Ndtha Periya Udeiyd T6van. His sub-
sequent title was Rdjd of Shevaganga,
or Sivagangen. A copper-plate exists,
giving his date as founder of the
Sivagangen monarchy, and thus the
dismemberment of the RamnM king-
dom and the establishment of the
great Shevaganga Zamindari is fixed
to 1733. In 1734 Saffdar 'Ali and
Chandd Sdhib took Tanjiir by storm,
and gave the principality to Bada
Sdhib, brother of Chandd. Soon after
this Chandd Sdhib took Trichinapalli,
and conquered Madura, and in 1739
Raghuji Bhonsl^ invaded Madura with
a force, which,Orme states at 100,000
cavalry, and Grant Duff at 50,000.
On the 20th of May, 1740, these
Marathas killed Dost 'All, the governor
of the Karndtik, and then over-ran
Tanjiir and Madura, and, as Mr.
Nelson thinks, occupied Shevaganga,
and probably Rdmndd. The Mardthas
were induced to retire by the Great
Nizdm, and Muhammadan Nuwdbs
governed Madura for a time, until
'Alam Khan sold Madura to Maisiij* ;
but the S^tupati's general expelled
these intruders, and had Vangdru
Tirumald's son proclaimed king of
Madura. In 1755 Muhammad 'Ali,
Niiwdb of the Karndtik, sent 500
English, 2000 Sipdhis, and 1000 horse,
under Colonel Heron, and Madura
was surrendered to them. On the
28th of May Heron marched back by
the Nattam Pass, and there suffered
severe loss, as is recorded by Orme.
He had given over Madm-a to Bara-
kata'Udh, and this man is said to have
established a small mosque on the top
oi t\ie \mfi3i\^^^ "^^vi^od^*. ^ M.^ura,

Sect. IL

R<mte 9. — Rdmndd.

229

Bhadra K411, which stands at the S.E.
comer of the Royal Mandapam in the
Great Pagoda, is said to have opened
one eye, which remained open for two
days. The E. I. C. now sent their
celebrated partizan officer, Muhammad
Yiisuf Khdn, to command at Madura.
He arrived on the 6th of April, 1756,
but a cabal was formed against him,
and he was compelled to apply to
Captain Calliaud, commanding at
Trichindpalli, for instructions. On
this Calliaud came to Madura, and,
supported by Yiisuf, attempted to
storm the place, but was repulsed ;
but Barakata'lldh, who commanded
within the walls, subsequently surren-
dered the fort to him. In July, 1758,
the Madras government sent for Yiisuf,
but allowed him to return to Madura
in 1759 ; and in 1760 he repelled an
attack of Haidar 'All's troops. In

1762, after he had overrun the Sheva-
ganga and Rdmndd territories, he was
besieged in Madura by a force sent
by the Niiwdb of the Kamdtik, which
was aided by the S^tupati, and the
Rdjd of Shevaganga. Yiisuf gal-
lantly defended himself until May,

1763, when he was betrayed by a con-
fidential servant to his enemies, and
executed. Thus perished this able
officer, of whom Col. Fullarton says,
"His whole administration denoted
vigour. His justice was unquestioned,
his word unalterable ; his measures
were happily combined and firmly
executed ; the guilty had no refuge
from punishment." Madura was then
put under a servant of the Niiwdb of
the Kamdtik, Abirdl Khdn, who go-
verned for 6 years.

In 1772 the Zaminddrs of Rdmndd
and Nalguti were attacked by the
English, at the instigation of the
Niiwdb of the Kamdtik, on grounds
which are thus pithily explained by the
British Government. " The Niiwdb has
made them his enemies. It is, there-
fore, necessary they should be re-
duced. We do not say it is altogether
just, for justice and good policy are
not often related 1 " General Joseph
Smith marched against Rdmndd with
400 European infantryf 5 regiments of
J^jpdbls^ 6 hQ^yy f^unB md » body of

cavalry. The batteries opened on the
morning of the 2nd of April, and the
breach was practicable before evening,
when the fort was stormed with the
loss of only 1 European and 2 Sipdhls
killed. The Zaminddr and his mother
were then handed over to the tender
mercies of the Niiwdb, who did not
fail to treat them so that their enemies
pitied them. The fate of the other
Marava chief was still more disastrous.
Having concluded a treaty with the
Niiwdb, he was reposing in fancied
security when, owing to some mistake,
the English advanced against him, and
put him and his followers to the sword.
In 1790 Mr. McCleod was appointed
Collector on the part of the E. I. C,
and the barony now pays a tribute of
331,565^ rs. to the Madras government.

Rdnmdd is a curious and interesting
place, but it is infamous for outbreaks
of cholera, caused by the filthy habits
of the pilgrims who pass through to
Rdmeshwaram. The traveller will do
well to see whatever there is of interest
and pass on to Rdmeshwaram. Among
the noticeable things is the Zamlnddr's
Palace, which consists of 4 square
buildings of several storeys, standing
in the centre of the town. It is an an-
cient structure, ornamented with carv-
ings of gods and statuettes in niches
at every comer. The Darbdr, or
audience hall, in the centre of a small
court, is of massive stone, with pillaxs
of the same. It is a gloomy building,
now going to decay. There is also in
the centre of the town a very sacred
pagoda which deserves a visit.

The best way of going from Madura .
to Rdmndd is by pdlkl. The road is
bad, and in some places heavy with
sand, and the tedium of going by bul-
lock-cart is almost intolerable. At
Rdmndd the Asst. Coll. has a house,
where he always keeps servants,
whether he himself be there or not.
From Rdmndd the traveller can go in
one night to Mandapam, which is on the
coast facing Pdmbam, and at Pdmbam
he will find an empty b. with 1 chair
and a table. Tha TOL'&&\jet ^s^XssxjSyaxsi^.

can obtam «cl '^"ctcieiK^^^Q^ J^^^^^

230 Soute 9, — Madura to Rdmndd and Rdmeshwaram, Sect. II.

he can get ponies to take him the 6 m.
to RAmeshwaram, where there is an
empty stone mandapam, which is used
by European officers. From Pdmbam
the best course, in Jan. or Feb.,
would be to take a boat to Tutikorin,
which, with a favourable wind, would
be only one night's run. A bi-
monthly steamer touches at Pdmbam
and goes to Colombo.

There are several places of miner
importance near Rdmndd. Killa-
kar^iaif or XillaJiareiy is a seaport 9 m.
to the S.W. of it, with 11,303 inhabit-
ants, many of them Muslims employed
in manufactures. It [is supposed by
Prof. H. H. Wilson to be the site of
Kurkhi, the ancient residence of the
Pdndyan kings of Madura. This is
denied by Mr. Taylor, the epitomizer
of the Mackenzie MSS. There are
11 Makbarahs of Muhammadan saints
who have died here. One that stands
in the centre is very elegant, and has a
gilt cupola. A small Catholic church
stands on the E. skirts of the town,
and near it are the ruins of the Dutch
Factory.

Another seaport, Bevipatnam, is

known by the name of the "nine

stones," from the circumstance of a

natural bath formed by 9 rocks, which

has been held sacred from the most

remote antiquity. This bath must be

visited by all pilgrims on their way to

Rdmeshwaram. At a handsome cJid-

wadi built there for travellers, alms

are bestowed daily. DeviJtuta, on the

N. b. of the Verashelagdr r., is a

populous village and one of the most

important places in the district, on

account of its trade and the wealthy

merchants who reside there. These

- . live meanly, but distribute large sums

/ in charity. They salute their superiors

/ by rubbing their hands upon their

j stomachs. Mutajf^t is a fishing-vil-

^ lage 10 m. S.E. of Rdmndd, inhabited

by Catholics. Here are 2 b. erected

on the sea-shore for Europeans who

desire to inhale the sea breeze. At

Atankarai, a small seaport 11 m. E. of

Bdmndd, at the mouth of the Vaigiir,

js a spacious chdwadi^ b. by the late

^amlnddr, where alma are daily dis-

tnb^ted to pilgrims. Here grows the

best tobacco in the S. provinces.
VerashvleUj a village on the S. bank
of the Ki'^damdnadi r., N.W. of
Rdmndd, is said to have been the
residence of the Chola Rdjds, from
whom it derived its name. On its N.
stands a small Hindil temple of great
antiquity, and there are ruins of many
other edifices in the vicinity.

Tirnm2)allairh is a populous village
6 m. S. of Rdmndd, and one of the
very sacred places in Hindii worship.
The temple is on the E. of the village,
and a rectangular tank is in front of it.
There is a Mandapam on stone pillars
close to the gate of the temple, and
one on the E. of the tank. A high
stone wall surrounds the temple. The
main street of Tirumpallam is 2 f . long
and 40 ft. wide. The S. and E. streets
are inhabited by Brdhmans, the N. and
W. by the servants of the temple and
other Hindiis. The deity of this pagoda
is Jaganndth, whose festivals are in
April and July. Pilgrims who visit
the temple at Rdmeshwaram must,
after bathing in the sea, first come to
worship at Tirumpallam,

Rdmeshwaram, — But the place of
most interest in the eyes of the Hindii,
and that which confers sanctity not
only on Rdmndd, but on all the ad-
jacent country, is Rdmeshwaram. The
town stands on an island of the same
name, 14 m. in length from W. to E.,
and 5 m. in breadth from N. to S.,
divided from the main land by the
Pdmbam or Snake Channel, which is
now 1 m. broad, with a passage for
ships clear of rocks, 90 ft. wide and
10^ ft. deep, so that keeled vessels of a
small size can pass through in either
direction without delay and without
discharging cargo. The island is said
to have been joined to the mainland,
and to have been separated from it in
1484 A.D., during the reign of Achu-
dappa Ndyakkam, Rdjd of Madura,
by a violent storm. A small breach
was then made, but the water was
so shallow that it could be passed on
foot till the time of the next Rdjd
Vishvaxada Ndyakkam, when another
humcaTHi etAai^e,d the passage, which
"went ou rn'Ot'emxi^ VsJCb. ^^.^^iftsjsv??^

Sect. II.

Houte 9. — Rdmeshwaram,

231

larged by the Dutch, when they pos-
sessed the island. But the greatest im-
provements have been made since 1830
by the British Government. Previously
to this the passage was excessively
crooked, hence its name Pdmbam,
" snake-like," and the depth at high-
water and neap-tides was only about
5 ft., so that boats without keels, even
after discharging most of their cargo,
would be often days in getting through
when the current was strong. Since
1837 the passage has been dredged,
and more than £15,000 has been ex-
pended upon it. The result of this
expenditure has been an increase in
the traffic, and whereas the tonnage
of vessels that passed through in 1822
was 17,000 tons, in 1853 it rose to
160,000 tons, and has since then further
increased. Vessels of 200 tons have
passed, and even the war steamers
I^lnto and Nemesis, and freight be-
tween Colombo and Nagapatnam
has been proportionately reduced. At
the W. extremity of the island of
Edmeshwaram is the small town of
P^imbam in lat. 9** 37', long. 79° 17',
inhabited chiefly by Labbays, who are
pilots and boatmen, and about 60 of
them divert.

The Payoda, the great object of
interest, stands at the E. end of the
town of Edmeshwaram, which is at
the E. extremity of the island. This
pagoda of Edmeshwaram (from Skr.
Rdmah and Tshwar, God) completes
the Hindil's circle of pilgrimage, which,
commencing with the Temple of
Devi at Hingldj, a little to the W. of
Sonmidni in Sindh, proceeds to Jwdla
Mukhl (Flame-mouth), near Ldhiir,
and thence to Haridwdr and down
the Ganges to Orissa, and finishes at
Edmeshwaram at the S. extremity of
India. At p. 365 of Mr. Fergusson's
" History of Architecture," will be
found an account of this celebrated
temple, with a plan at p. 356 taken
fi'om the Journal of the Geo. Society
of Bombay, vol. vii. The dimen-
sions of the temple, according to
that plan, are 672 ft. from N. to S.,
and 868 ft. from E. to W., from the
outer wal2, which is 20 it. high. The
^4 W&l} 18 3ijft, trojxx ^, to g, ^not

447 as stated on the plan), and 560 ft.
from E. to W. This 2nd wall is sur-
rounded by a colonnade 690 ft. long
from E. to W. and CO ft. broad. The
entrance is on the W., under the only
finished gopura, which is 100 ft. high,
and the visitor will see in the garden
on his rt. after entering, what is
said to be "a small vimdnah of very
elegant proportions." This is called
Krishnapuram in the more recent plan
in possession of the author of this
Handbook, and appears to be rather a
Mandapam than a Vimdnah. In the
author's plan the dimensions differ
somewhat from those in Mr. Fergus-
son's. According to the former the
length of the outer wall from E. to W,
is 876 ft. instead of 868 ft., and 615 ft.
from N. to S. instead of 672 ft. In
Pharoah's Gazetteer the dimensions
of the external wall are stated at 667 ft.
from N. to S., and nearly 1000 ft. from
E. to W. The 3rd temple yard, that
is the one next to the outer enclosure,
is 702 ft. from E. to W., and 405 ft.
from N. to S. After passing the
Kyi^hnapuram, you pass on the rt. a
tank called the Mddhava Pushpa Kdrini
or Mddhava's Flower Tank, Mddhava
being a name of Kyishna. On the 1.
you have a small chapel called Setu
Mddhava Swdmi Koil. The entrance
to the actual lower temple is on the
S. and E. sides. Going now round by
the street in which the cars of the
deities go in procession, until you
arrive at the outer E. entrance, you
find 2 entrances, a central one which
is called Swdmi Samati or proscenium
of the deity's temple, and one on the
1. which is called Amma Samati or
proscenium of the goddess his consort's
temple. Between is the porch of the
8 Lakhshmls, and on the rt. is Hanu-
mdn's chapel. By the centre en-
trance you emerge into the Anuppa
Mandapam or hall, where different
deities meet, with a granary on the
rt. and Lakshmi's temple on the
1., and between the god and his
consort's room, what is called Mahd
Lakshmi Tirtham, a small tank, the
sacred Y^afces ol \i!)J&.^KKi\., "^^et ^sJvfc-
chamber \s e^\&vi >Owi ^^^sasw^^'s^

232 Route 9. — Madura to Rdmndd and Rdineshwaram, Sect. II.

W. end to Vigneshwara, while W. of
the Anuppa Mandapam are 2 chapels
to Subrahmanya. Passing then an
inner enclosure you arrive at a central
tower or gopura, which is called the
Motta Gopura, and is unfinished, while
one on the 1. is called the Mangala
Gopura, also unfinished. You are now
in the colonnade of pillars which is in
the plan now imder notice, 702 ft. from
E. to W. and 405 ft. from N. to S.,
without counting the corridor at the
entrance and an inner rectangle. It
is one of the most remarkable struc-
tures of the kind in India. It extends
from the W. entrance to the 2nd wall,
which it quite surrounds, and thus
altogether attains the length of nearly
4000 ft. The doorways are 19ft. high,
and composed of single stones fixed
perpendicularly and crossed by other
single stones. According to the " Ga-
zetteer of S. India," p. 391, the length
of the colonnade from E. to W. is
671 ft. and from N. to S. 383 ft., and
the breadth 17 ft. The ceiling is of
vast slabs of granite, with pillars of
the same material 12 ft. high, raised
on a platform 5 ft. high, so that the
height of the colonnade is about 17 ft.
llie pillars are all of single blocks of
the hardest granite, and are in the
principal conidors richly carved. In
the central corridor leading from the
sanctuary are effigies of the Rdjds of
Bdmndd of the 17th century, to which
date Mr, Fergusson assigns the temple,
which he thinks may have been com-
menced a little earlier, in 1650. There
are. altogether 5 gopuras, of which
that on the W. is the only one finished.
It is about 100 ft. high. On the E.
are 2 gopuras, and all 6 are built of
stone, a unique case in Pagoda archi-
tectui'e. Mr. Fergusson says ("His-
tory of Architecture," p. 355), " If it
were proposed to select one temple
which should exhibit all the beauties
of the Dravidean style in their greatest
perfection, and at the same time ex-
emplify all its characteristic defects
of design, the choice would almost
inevitably fall on that of Rdmesh-
waram.*'
The legend to which the sanctity of
H^mcjsUwaram ia due \a f^ fojlov^s ;

Vishnu became incarnate for the 7th
time as the son of Dasaratha, the King
of Ayodhya, for the purpose of des-
troying the giant demon Rdvana, who
was King of Lanka or Ceylon. Wan-
dering ill the forest of Dandaka (so
says the S. Indian tradition), in the S.
of India, Rdma lost his wife Sitd, who
was carried off to Lanka by Rdvana.
Rdma pursued the ravisher, attended
by the devotees, who assumed the shape
of monkeys. Their general, Hanuman ,
made a bridge of rocks from India to
Ceylon at Rdmeshwaram, by which
Rdma crossed, slew Rdvana and re-
covered his bride. But when he
returned he was observed to have 2
shadows, a sign of sin of the deepest
dye. This was because Ravana was
of the race of Brdhma, and Rama took
counsel with the divine sages to dis-
cover some means of expiating his
crime. They advised him to build a
temple and confine Shiva there in a
lingam or phallus, which is the em-
blem of that deity. Rama built the
temple, and sent Hanuman to Kailas,
the heaven of Shiva, to get a lingam.
As he was a long time in returning,
and the hour for dedicating the temple
was approaching, Rdma induced his
wife, Sitd, to model a phallus of the
white sand on the sea coast. This she
did, and Rdma set up the phallus so
moulded in the temple, which was
forthwith dedicated to Shiva. Mean-
time Hanumdn returned with another
phallus, and was so angry at being
forestalled, that he endeavoured to
pull up the other lingam, and broke
his tail in the effort to twist it out.
Hereupon Shiva and his consort ap-
peared from the lingam and said to
Rdma, "Who ever visits this lingam
dedicated by thee, and bathes in the
24 sacred bathing-places, shall be freed
from sin and inherit heaven." Then,
to console Hanuman, Rdma placed
the lingam he had brought on the N.
side of the one which had been al-
ready fixed, and ordained that pilgrims
should visit it first and then Rdma's
lingam. Such are the monstrous and
impure fables of this locality.

I^^^'^V-nV^'^^

Houle 10. — Mais&r Provinee.

S33

ROUTE 10.

TO BENQALUB, 21(i U. (FAKE
1st CL., 17 BB.)

•jUi u a 3

Af tec leaving JoUrp t the Ime mas
m a N.W. direction, auil at 14J m.
from Kupam entera the territory of
the Biijd of MaJBiir, and at aboat 10
m. further on turns dnc W. to Ben-
galiir. Maisilr, from Hahish-ZUiira
the buffalo-headed demon slain by the
{ Consort of Shiva, vi'orehipped by the
\ royal family of Maieiir as their tate-
I lary divinity, under the name of
Chimundi or Mahishilsura Mardini.
I It is a table land of triangular shapo,
between 11° 38' and 15° 3' N. lat., and
74° 43" and 78° 3G' E. long. Ita area
is 27,078 sq. m., bo that it is about ,tth
emaller than Bavaria. From E. to W.
its greatest length is 290 m., and from
N. to B. 330 m. It is surrounded on
all sides by the British dominions of
the Madras Presidency, except for
some distance on the W^ where a part
of the Bombay Presidency and Kurg
form its boundaiy. Its eleTa,tioii
ranges from 2000 to 3000 ft. above
the sea, but its surface is broken by-
deep ravines, and by hills which reach
from 4000 to 6000 ft., most of whieh
have been fortified, and in general are
supplied at the summit with unfailing
springs of water. It is divided into
2 parts, of wbicb that to the W. is '
paUcd Maliidd, "bill countrj," from

Kan. JUah " hiU," nd^a "coimtry."
The K. frontier from Bhikftrpiir to
Periyapatamis called jl/iiiif(ii( oiSail-
«7i!iii^, open country. The main rivers
within the provinces are (see Lewis
Kice's Gaietteer, vol. i.) : —

»,„

,„,...

D?]to.liu.,

CU«5

BVMS

103

1,BM

lliere arc o natural lakes m Maisiir,
i i8i tanks The largest is the
S Inkere 40 m n circumference. The
h ghest mountam s Doddabett, 8600
ft and Mulama gin fi3I7 and Nandi
durgn 4810 come next

For the dynast es and Itdj4s who
have ruled over Maisdr sec (.hionologi-
cal Tables. It la only necessary to add

embassy to the Court of Aurangilb,
wuich set out that year, and found
the Emperor at Ahmadnagar, and re-
turned in 1700, hringii^ a new signet
from him with the title Jag Deo Edj,
"sovereign of the worid," with- per-
mission to sit on an ivoiy throne.
Ibe Bilj& reformed bis administration
on that of the Imperial Court, and
every day put aside out of his revenue
3 bags of 1000 pagodas each, as a
reserve fund. He thus acquired the
title of Navokoto NirAyana, " Lord
of nine millions." He died m 1704,
after a reign of 31 years. He was
succeeded by his son Kanthirava R&}&,
called Miik arasu, "deaf and dumb."
To him succeeded Dod^a Krishna
K&jii, who was obliged to buy ofi with
a million, an attack made on him by
Sa'aditii'llAb Khdu. the Niiw^bs of
Kadapa, Kamul and SavanUr and the
Mai'iitha chief of Gutti. His successors
were Ch4ma RAji, and ttien Venkat
Aiadu, but all power was in the hands
of the minister T>«^a.'^.ife.\*i-«i*-^™i*'

234

EoiUe 10. — Madras to BengaMr,

Sect. II.

of ArkAt. The latter in 1746 made a
Buccessful expedition into Koimbatiir,
and on his return his daughter
was married to the nominal Rdjd of
Maisiir. In 1749, the forces of Maisili*
besieged Devanhalli, and were joined
by a volunteer, who was destined to
rise to the throne. This was Haidar
'AH, who came with a small body of
horse and foot under his elder brother
ShAhbdz. ^laldar was the great-grand-
son of Muhammad Bahlol, who came
from the Panjdb to Kalbarga. His
son Muhammad 'All and Muhammad
Wall came to Sird, and were employed
as customs officers. They removed to
Koldr, where the elder died, and the
younger turned the widow and her
son out of doors. A Ndyak of peons
took them in at Koldr and got the
son, Fath Muhammad, made a
peon. He distinguished himself at
the siege of Ganjikota, and was made
a NAyak, but migrated to Arkdt,
taking with him 50 horse and 1400
foot. He next entered the service of
the FaujdAr of Chittiir, and on his
recall returned to Maisiir, and was
made Faujddr of Koldr, and the estate
of Budikot was bestowed on him. At
Budikot, Sh4hb4z was born to him,
and in 1722, Haidar by a 3rd wife,
the daughter of a NawAit, that is, an
Arab recently arrived from Arabia.
At Koldr, Fath Muhammad built a
mausoleum and interred there his 1st
wife, and in 1729 having been killed
with his eldest son by his 1st wife, in
a battle between the Siibahddr of Sird
and the Faujddr of Chittilr, he was
himself interred there. Here, Haidar
when only 7 years old, and his brother
Shdhbdz aged 9, were tortured by
*Abbds Kull the son of the Siibahddr.
At the siege of Devanhalli, Haidar
behaved so well, that the charge
of one of the gates was entrusted
to him, with the command of 80 horse
and 200 foot. He was next sent to
attend on Nd§ir jang ^libahddr of
the Dakhan, and when Nd§ir was
killed, Gaidar secured 2 camel-loads
of gold coins, 300 horses, and 500
muskets. In 1751 , Muhammad *AU
asked aid of Maisiir, and Nanja R6.36.
nmrcbed to assist Mm with 6000 Uoxse

and 10,000 foot, lent a million of
pagodas to Muhammad 'Ali, who had
promised him Trichindpalli, and re-
turned empty handed. Before he
could reach Shrirangpatnam, Saldbat-
jang, the Nizdm, had extorted from
Deva Rdjd all the money that could
be collected in the city. Haidar was
now made Faujddr of Dindigal, and
had raised the troops under his com-
mand to 1500 horse, 3000 regular in-
fantry, 2000 peons, and 4 guns. In
1757, the Mardthas invaded Maisiir,
and extorted all the money that could
be collected, and the Maisiir army
mutinied and demanded their arrears.
Haidar was appointed liquidator, and
he distributed all the Rdjd's property,
and as soon as he had got rid of the
main body of the mutineers, he seized
their ringleaders and confiscated their
effects. Soon afterwards he murdered
his rival Hari Singh, and obtained the
fort and district of Bengaliir as his
personal jdgir. In 1759, Haidar staved
off a Mardtha invasion in great force
under Gopdl Hari, and received the
title of Fath Haidar Bahddur. Mean-
time, Deva Rdj had died, and in 1759,
Haidar expelled Nanja Rdjd from the
capital, and became sole minister. On
the 4th of June, 1760, Haidar con-
cluded a treaty at Puducheri with the
French, with the object of expel-
ling the English from Arkdt, and his
forces under Makbdiim 'AH gained a
victory at Trivadi on the 17th of July.
But a plot was now formed against
Haidar by the Rdjd of Maisiir 's mother
and Khand6 Rdo, Haidar's secretary,
which nearly resulted in his destruc-
tion. He was encamped with a small
force under the guns of the fort, when
they suddenly opened upon him on
the 12th of August, 1760, on which
day Visaji Pant, a Mardtha leader, had
engaged to attack him with 6000 horse.
Visaji, however, failed to arrive, and
Gaidar escaped from the Mahdnavam
Mandapam, now the Daryd Daulat,
across the river with a few men, leav-
ing behind his wife and his eldest son
Tlpii, then 9 years old. Haidar rode
75 m. on. one horse, and arrived at

Sect. IL

Soute 10. — MauHr Province,

235

gency Qaidar saved himself by baying
off the Mardthas, by the cession of the
B^amahal and a payment of Rs.
300,000. They went off at once, the
real secret of their sudden retreat being,
that the news of the terrible slaughter
of the great Mardtha army at Panipat
had arrived. Haidar on learning what
had happened, retained Bdramahal,
and marched against Khand^ Bdo, but
was heavily defeated at Nanjangod.
He then with 200 horse went off to
Nanja Bdjd at Konaniir and made his
submission with such well-feigned
penitence that Nanja pardoned him,
and put out all his strength in sup-
porting him. His danger was, how-
ever, still extreme, for Khand6 Rdo
was marching to attack him with a
far superior force, when Haidar by an
astonishing stratagem retrieved his
fortunes. He fabricated letters with
the seal of Nanja, calling on the
chief officers of Khand^'s army to
deliver him up as agreed upon. He
contrived that these letters should fall
into Khand^'s hands, and they so
alarmed him, that he mounted his horse
and fled to Shrirangpatnam. Haidar
then attacked his bewildered troops
and put them to flight, taking all the
guns and baggage. Haidar now pre-
vailed on the Rdjd, to whom Khand6
had fled, to deliver him up, promising
to do him no harm. The expression
he used was, that he would treat him
like a parrot, which in the idiom of
the country, meant that he would be
very kind to him. Haidar, however,
performed his promise literally and
put the traitor in a cage, in which he
died, as Cardinal Balue in the cage in
which Louis XI. confined him. Thus
in June, 1761, he became the virtual
ruler of Maisiir, and in that year he
made a treaty with Basdlat jang, the
younger brother of Ndsir jang and
Saldbat jang, who invested him with
the office of Niiwdb of Sird, with the
title of Gaidar 'All Khdn BahAdur,
and Bah^ur was the name by which
amongst the people of India he was
afterwards generally known. Uniting
his troops to those of Basdlat jang,
^aidar then took Hoskot, Dod Baldp^r
find then SIrd, PursuiDg his career

of conquest he captured Ohik Baldpiir,
defeated MurAri R6o, and took from
him Eodikonda, Penkonda, and Ma-
daksira, and received the submission
of the PAlegdrs of Raidurg, Harpanalli,
and Chitaldurg. At the end of Janu-
ary, 1763, he entered the province of
Bedniir, and took the capital^f the same
name, where he is said to have secured
12,000,000 rs. By this victory IJaidar
established his power. He resolved to
make Bedni!Lr his capital, and changed
its name to Haidar-nagar. He com-
menced a splendid palace, which was
never finished, established a mint and
coined Haidari and Bah&duri pagodas
in his own name. He also constructed
on the W. coast a dockyard and naval
arsenal. A conspiracy was formed
against him by the former officials of
Bedniir, but he discovered it, and exe-
cuted 300 of the conspirators. In
December Haidar annexed the hill
country of Sunda, and was joined by
Rdjd 'All, son of Chandd Sdhib. He
now tried to appease the Nizdm and
the Peshwd, but failed with the latter,
who advancing with an Immense army
defeated Haidar at Rattihalli, and
again at Anavatti, and finally shut
him up in Bedniir, where he was
obliged to cede all the places he had
taken from Murdri R4o of Gutti and
'Abdu'l Hakim of Savamir, and to pay
3,200,000 rs. In 1766 he conquered
Malabdr, and defeated 15,000 Narrs, of
whom all but 200 perished. Chikka
Krishna, the nominal Rdj4 of Maisi!ir,
was now dead, and Haidar ordered his
son Nanja to be installed but after-
wards dethroned him. The Mardthas
and Niijam 'All now prepared a joint
invasion of Maisiir, but Haidar suc-
ceeded in getting rid of the former by
paying 35 Idkhs, and persuaded the
latter to join him in a campaign
against the English. Their imited
armies descended the Ghdts on the
25th of August, 1767, and surprised
Col. Smith, who, however, defeated
them at Trinomali on the 26th of Sep-
tember. Tipii, who was only 17, had
penetrated to the very environs of
Madiaa,\rai\. oTL\kSKM>L'^'2Jt\iv^^si^^
deiea\. lexoVftfe^ \^aD. ^^^ ^^ ^'^^.^

236

Route \0,^^Madra8 to Bengalur.

Sect. IL

anbMi, but was repulsed from Ambiir,
and in an attack on an English detach-
ment, where his horse was shot under
him and a bullet passed through his
turban. The Nijidm now made peace
with the English, and returned to
Haidardbdd, while Haidar retook from
the English Mangaliir, HonAwar, and
Basavardjadurg, which had fallen to
their arms. The English on the other
hand took Salem, Yirod, Koimbatiir,
and Dindigal, and Mulbagal, Koldr,
and Hosiir, above the Ghdts, and were
joined by Murdri RAo. Haidar making
a circuit reached Guramkonda and
persuaded its chief, Mir Sdhib, to
return to his allegiance. He then
descended to Koimbatiir and treacher-
ously captured the garrisons of Yirod
and Kav^ripiiram, and sent them to
Shrirangpatnam, Finally, hearing that
the Mardthas were preparing to invade
Maisiir, he sent back his main army,
and with 6000 chosen horse galloped
140 m. in 3i days, and appeared before
Madras, where, on the 29th of March,
1769, he made peace with the English
on condition of an interchange of pri-
soners, mutual restitution of conquered
districts, and assistance in defensive
war. In 1770 Mddhava R6o again in-
vaded Gaidar's dominions, and made
great progress, when the Peshwd fell
ill, and was obliged to return to Puna,
leaving the command to Trimbak
MAm4, who totally defeated Haidar at
Chinkurali on the 5th of March, 1771.
^aidar fled to Shrirangpatnam, which
was besieged, and he was obliged in
June, 1772, to bind himself to pay 30
Idkhs of rs., J at once, and to leave
Koldr, Hoskot, Dod Bdlapiir, Slrd,
Madgirl, Chanraidurg and Guram-
kon(&,in the hands of the Marathas, as
a pledge for the rest. Between Septem-
ber, 1773, and November, 1774, Haidar
recovered all the territory he had lost.
The nominal Rdji of Maisiir now died,
and Haidar is said to have put all the
male children of the Rdjd's family into
a hall filled with sweetmeats and toys,
and to have selected, as successor to
ihc throne, a hoy who picked up a
dagg-erand a lime. '' TMs is the Rdid,"
said Haidar; ^^bis&rst thought is of
/i/^s, and his second of the prodxiQe of

the country." Haidar, at this time,
was joined by a body of 1000 Persians
from Shirdz, and sent for more, but
the climate did not suit them, and his
letter miscarried. Haidar's next ex-
ploit was the defeat of Basdlat jang's
army, which was besieging Balldri,
and the capture of the place for him-
self. He then attacked Gutti, which
he captured with all its dependencies,
and took Murdri Rdo prisoner, whom he
sent first to Shrirangpatnam and then
to Kabbal-durg, where he died. In
1775 Raghundth Rdo, who had been
acting as Peshwd, was obliged to fly to
Surat, where, on the 6th of March, he
made a treaty with the English, who
supported him, and with Haidar, in-
viting the latter to overrun the dis-
tricts of Savaniir, which was immedi-
ately done. In 1777 the Marathas
and the army of Nizdm 'All under
Ibrahim Bey Dhousa invaded Haidar's
territory, but he bribed ofE the latter
and induced Mdnajl Phdkre, a distin-
guished general of the Mardtha army , to
engage to desert to him. Hari Pant the
Mardtha general in chief, discovering
this treachery, attacked Mdnaji's divi-
sion, 10,000 strong, and swept them off
the field, but he was so weakened by
this encounter that he was obliged to
retreat. Mdndji had cut his way
through to Haidar, but with only 30
men, the rest being destroyed, and
Haidar now reduced all the country
between the Krishna and Tunga-
bhadra. In 1779 he captured Chital-
durg after a siege of 2 years, and
deported 20,000 of the inhabitants to
Shrirangpatnam. He then captured
Kadapa, and escaped a night attack of
80 Afghdns by slitting a hole in the
curtain of the tent, leaving a bolster in
his bed, which the assailants hacked to
pieces. In the morning the Afghdns,
who had been over})owered, were
crushed under the feet of elephants or
had their hands and feet cut off, and
so perished miserably. On the 27th of
May, 1779, he took Sidhdwat or Sid-
hout, and married the daughter of
'Abii'l Hallm Khan, the Niiwdb, who
"became \,\i<& \ie.'a.d of his seraglio
as Ba\Mai "Bi^asQ.. Ixi >i)DSs. ^^"ox ^vi

Sect. IL

SoiUe 10. — Mais'dr Province.

237

which offended 9aidar, who received
supplies from Mauritius by that port,
and had declared it to be under his
protection. He was also angry because
the English had marched through the
territory of Kadapa without his per-
mission. He, therefore, resolved on
war, treated Mr. Gray, the English
envoy, with studied disrespect, and in
July, 1780, descended the Ghdts to
invade the Karndtik, with 90,000 men.
The operations were guided by French
officers, and the commissariat was
managed by Pilmaiya, Minister of
Finance. Karlm Khdn, Haidar's second
son, plimdered Porto Novo, while the
main army advanced on Madras, deso-
lating the country from Pulikat to
Puducheri, over a tract from 30 to 50
m. wide. The smoke of burning
villages was seen from St. Thomas's
Mount, and crowds of mutilated pea-
sants poured into the capital. At this
time Col. Baillie's's column, consisting
of the flank companies of the 73rd
Regt., 2 companies of European grena-
diers, 1 company of Sipdhl marksmen,
10 companies of Sipahi grenadiers
under Col. Fletcher, and 2000 Slpdhis
and 1.50 Europeans, which formed Bail-
lie's original force, in all about 3800 men
was cut to pieces, excepting 200 Euro-
peans who were made prisoners. A
painting of the battle still remains on
the walls of the Palace of Shrlrangpat-
nam to this day. Arcot was taken by
Haidar, who ravaged Tanjiii* and
swept away crowds of the inhabitants,
and immense herds of cattle. Sir Eyre
Coote had taken the command of the
English forces in January, 1781, and
in June met with a repulse at ChUam-
bram and retired to Porto Novo.
Haidar then marched 100 m. in 2^
days, and placed himself between the
English army and Gudaliir. But here
Haidar's triumph ended. On the 1st
of July he was defeated in a pitched
battle near Porto Novo, and a second
time on the 27th of August, after a
combat which raged for 8 hours, at
Pallilur. These reverses were fol-
lowed, on the 27th of September, by
the English victory of Sholingarh.
Some indecisire engagements followed
in operations conducted by Tlpii, but

on the 7th of December, 1782, IJaidar
died, aged 60 ; Tipii, who was then
at Panidni on the W. coast, joined his
main army between Ami and VeMr on
the 2nd of January, 1783. On the 16th
of February General Matthews had
captured Bedniir, having previously
taken Hondwar and Mangaliir, with
booty to the value of nearly 3,000,000,
but was invested in Bedniir bv Tlpii
on the 9th of April. On the 30th he
capitulated, and the garrison, officers
and men, were sent off in irons to
Shrirangpatnam. Tlpii now advanced
on MangalAr, and invested it on the
4th of May, 1783. The siege lasted
till the 30th of January, 1784, when
Tipii allowed the gamson to i*etire to
Telicheri. On the 11th of March, 1785,
peace was concluded between Tipii
and the English, on the condition of
the release of prisoners and the resti-
tution of conquests. In 1786 Tlpii put
down a revolt in Kurg and assumed
the title of Bddshdh. In October,
1785 Tipii captured Nirgund and soon
afterwards Kittiir. This led to his
being attacked by the Mardthas under
Hari Pant and the Ni^jam's troops
under Tahauwur jang in 1786, who
captured Baddmi. Peace was made
in 1787, by which Tipii bound himself
to pay 45 Idkhs of rs., and surrender
Baddmi, Adonl, Kittiir, and Nirgund.
On returning to his capital he ordered
the town and fort of Maisiir to be de-
stroyed, and the city of Nazarabdd to
be buUt in their place. In January,
1788, Tipii descended to Kdllkot and
thence moved to Koimbatiir and Din-
digal, returned to Shrirangpatnam,
where he reorganized his troops, and
then descending to Malabdr imposed
forcible conversion on the Nairs, the
alternative being death. At this time
Nizdm 'AH proposed an alliance with
Tlpii, but the latter required that it
should be preceded by an intermar-
riage of the families, and this the Nizdm
rejected. It is only right to add that
the " History of the Nizdms," by Mir
'Alam, does not record these circum-
stances. Meantime, Tipi^ sent 2 em-
bassies to Coiis\Xa\\\xva\\<5i wx^ X \55>
Paris, He pio^o^a^ X^q ^^ '^xi^X^aacv \Rk
give lam "J&.oEvsa^.tLi m e?LR)a«ja%^ Vss.

238

Rovie 10. — Madras to Bengaliir,

Sect. II.

Ba^ra, and asked permission to dig a
canal which would convey the waters
of the Euphrates to Najaf. On the
29th of December, 1789, Tipii's troops
were repulsed with great loss from the
lines which the Rdjd of Travankor
had erected for the defence of his N.
boundary. Tlpii himself, carried away
by the rush of fugitives, fell in the
ditch and was saved with difficulty,
after losing his seals, rings, and orna-
ments. In March, 1790, he carried the
lines, and took the town of Travankor.
On the 24:th of May General Meadows
took command of a force which had
assembled at Trichindpalli to act
against Tlpii. In July an alliance was
formed against him by the English,
the Mardthas, and Nizam 'All, on the
condition of an equal division of con-
quests. The main army of the English
was to capture the forts in Koimbatiir
and Pdlghdt, and ascend to the table
land of Maisiir, by the Gajalhatti
Pass, while another division entered
BAramahal. In September Tipii
attacked General Floyd's detachment
at Satyamangal, but after a severe
struggle retired. While the English
army was uniting, Tlpii retook Yirod
and Dhdrapiiram. Tipii then carried
the war into British territory, ad-
vanced on Trichindpalli and plundered
Shrlrangam. He then moved north-
ward, and took Trinomali and Permak-
oil, but was repulsed from Tyagarh.
He applied to Louis XVI. for 6000
men, and offered to pay their expenses,
but Louis declined. On the 10th of
December his army was totally de-
feated in Malabdr, and the whole pro-
vince fell into the hands of the English.
On the 21st of March Lord Comwallis
stormed Bengalilr. Tipii now put to
death a number of English boys, and
strangled or crushed under the feet of
elephants Kp^hna RAo, one of his
ministers, and all his brothers, besides
other officers. Lord Comwallis moved
N. to join the Niz4m's cavalry, and
Tlpii placed himself on the Channapa-
tam I'd. On the 13th of May Lord
ComwnlMs moving unexpectedly by
KanJkanbnllif arrived at Arikere, 9 m.
^. of Sbrlrangpapmm. As the r.
coaJd'not be passed at this point Lord

Comwallis moved higher up to Kan-
nambddi, where he was joined by
General Abercromby, who had taken
Periyapatam on the W., and was
advancing from that direction. On
the 15th of May a battle was fought
in which the English drove Tlpii's
army from their position between
Karigatta and the r., and forced them
into the island, but owing to the great
mortality among the cattle, and sick-
ness among the troops, Comwallis was
obliged to retire to Bengaliir till the
rains were over. Meantime the Mara-
thas having taken Dharwdd and all
the places N. of the Tungabhadra,
made their appearance, and relieved
the English troops by the supplies
they brought. The Nizam's forces had
taken Kopdl, BahMur Bandar, and
Ganjikota. It was now settled that
the English should operate to the E.,
the Nizam's troops to the N., and the
Mardthas to the N.W. Between July,
1791, and January, 1792, the English
captured Hosiir, Rayakota, Nandidurg,
and Savandurg, supposed till then im-
pregnable, and Hatridurg, Ramgiri,
Sivangiri, and Hulyiirdurg. The
Mdrdthas took Hole Honmir, and de-
feated the Maisiireans at Shimagu, but
the division they left at Madgiri was
routed by Kamru 'd din, and their
garrison at Dod Bdlapiir retreated to
Bengaliir. The English at Koimbjitiir
were also forced to surrender, and
were sent as prisoners to Shrlrang-
patnam. On the 25th of January, 1792,
Lord Comwallis marched with Sikan-
dar jdh and a body of Mardthas under
Hari Pant from Hulyiirdurg to besiege
Shrirangpatnam, and General Aber-
cromby, who had returned to Malabar
in November, also moved to join Lord
Comwallis on the- 22nd of January.
On the 5th of February Lord Com-
wallis took up a position 6 m. N. of
the capital, and on the night of the
6th he drove the Maisiir army from its
position, and captured the suburb of
Shahr Ganjdm. In the confusion
10,000 men of Kurg deserted Tlpii.
On the 16th General Abercromby
pined the Governor-General, and on
tVve i^nd ewNo^^ ^•c^^^^JtOcvc^Xs^ '^tl^u
to svxe tor i^SkjCfc>yco\x^\.\i«*i)^^^xJ^iCv

Sect. IL

Eoute IQ.-^Mais'dr Province.

239

matum. He was to cede half his domi-
nions, pay 33,000,000 rs., release all
his prisoners, and deliver up 2 of his
sons as hostages. Thus the English
obtaiued Malabdr, Kurg, Dindigal, and
Baramahal, the Mardthas all the terri-
tory adjoiniDg then* frontier up to the
Tungabhadra, Kizam 'All all he for-
merly possessed N. of that r., and
Kadapa to the S. of it. In 1796 Chdma
Rdjd, the nominal ruler, died, and
Tlpii abolished the pageant of a Hindu
King and appointed no successor to
him. He despatched embassies to the
Porte and to Kabul, and applied for
aid to Arabia, Persia, Dihli, and, above
all, to the French. In 1797 a French
privateer was driven by a gale to the
coast of MangaMr, and an adventm*er
named Ripaud, who was on board, was
sent up to Shrlrangpatnam, and in-
duced Tlpii to send an embassy to the
Isle of France to form a coalition
against the English. The French
government sent a copy of Tipii's
letter to the Directory, and by procla-
mation invited people to join him. In
consequence, 94 Frenchmen arrived at
Shrlrangpatnam and established there a
Jacobin Club, in which the Sultan was
enrolled as Citizen Tlpii. These pro-
ceedings led to the final Maisiir war,
which commenced on the 6th of March,
1799, when Tipii attacked the Bombay
column under General Stuart and was
defeated. On the 27th of March
General Harris with the main army
defeated Tlpii at Malvalli, 24 m. E. of
Shrlrangpatnam. On the 5th of April
General Harris arrived on the spot
occupied by Abercromby in 1792, and
commenced the siege. On the 4th of
May General Baird led the storming
party of 4381 men against the W.
angle of the Fort, ajid Tipii was shot
by a grenadier at the gateway leading
to the inner Fort. He was in his 47th
year, and had reigned 17 years. A
commission consisting of General
Harris, Col. Ai'thur Wellesley, the
Hon. H. Wellesley, Lieut.-Col. W.
Kirkpatrick, and Lieut.-Col. Barry
Close decided that a part of the
Maisiir dominions should be made
over to a descendant of the old
jRdJds, while io the ^v/f'^m were

assigned Gutti and Gnrramkonda, and
all the country N. from Chitaldurg and
Sird. To the Mardthas were tendered
Harpanhalli, Simda, and Anagundi,
and parts of Chitaldurg and Bedniir
above the Ghdts on certain conditions,
which not being accepted, the Eng-
lish and the Nijjdm divided the terri-
tory. The English also took all the
districts below the Ghdts, between
their territory and the E. and W.
coasts and the island of Shrlrangpat-
nam. The Nij^dm, however, had in
1800 to cede to the British all the
territory he had acquired in 1792 and
1799, and in return a British force was
quartered at Sikandardbdd, within 2 m.
of his capital. In 1803 the British
Government gave to Maisiir the dis-
tricts of Holalkere, Mayakonda, and
Harihar, and took Punganiir, Wyndd,
Yelusairrasime and other places in
exchange. The Rdjd of Maisiir was
now a child, named Krishna Rdjd
Wodey dr. His Minister was Pumaiya,
who had been Finance Minister to
Tlpii, Colonel Barry Close was the
Resident, and Arthur Wellesley the
General of Division. No wonder dis-
turbances were soon quelled, that 20
millions of rupees were amassed in the
Treasury, and that in 1804 the Gover-
nor-General recorded his opinion that
" the affairs of the Government of
Maisiir had been conducted with a
degree of regularity, wisdom, discre-
tion and justice unparalleled in any
Native State in India." In 1811 the
Rdjd, being about 16 years old, told
the Resident he wished to govern for
himself, on which Pumaiya resigned,
and soon after died. In 1814 the
Rdjd had dissipated the vast treasure
accumulated by Pumaiya. He listened
to worthless favourites, such as Venkat
Subbaiya, a lute-player, and in 1817
he engaged in some intrigues which
offended the British. Offices were
sold to the highest bidder, and the
revenue was collected on the Shar(i
system, that is by officers who engaged
to reaUze a certain amount or make
good the balance. In 1825 Sir T.
Munro wamed lVv& ^^-^ \sv^vwa.. ^s^.
1831 (\i8afi.Gc\.\oTi\ni?jv»- ^^ ^^"^ NXsj^.

240

JRovte 10. — Madras to Bengalur,

Sect. II.

had commanded a body of cavalry
under Haidar and Tlpii, was made
Faujdar of Nagar and then Bakhshl or
chief of the Cavalry Department. He
filled up all vacant posts with his
relatives. The Rdjd becoming suspi-
cious, replaced him with a relative of his
own, one Vlra RAj Arasu, who, finding
that the revenue had been embezzled,
reimposed it, and so excited discon-
tent. The friends of Rama Rdo be-
coming alarmed, espoused the cause
of a pretender, one Budi Basavappa
Nagur Khdvind, who claimed to be
king of Bedmir. In 1830 and 1831 a
revolt broke out, which compelled the
British forces to be called out, and
on the 12th of June they captured
Bedmir, and so gave a death-blow to
the insurrection ; but Lord "W. Bentinck,
the Governor-General, resolved to put
the province under the control of British
officers, and appointed two Commis-
sioners, and in April, 1834, one Com-
missioner for the whole province, —
Colonel, afterwards Sir Mark Cubbon.
After June, 1832, the Commissioner
became subordinate to the Supreme
Government. Sir Mark Cubbon re-
tained office till 1861, in April of which
year he died at Suez, on his way to
England. He was succeeded by Mr.
Sanders, and then Mr. Bowring fol-
lowed in Feb., 1862, and resigned in
1870. His successor was Sir 'Richard
Meade, who assumed charge in Feb.,
1870, and was called away in Oct.,
1873, for the trial of the GaekwM.
The RAjd resided at Maisiir till his
death, which took place in 1868. He
had adopted in June, 1865, a child
connected with his house, named
ChAma Rdjendra, who was enthroned
on the 23rd Sept. 1868.

In Maisiir there are 3 grand divi-
sions or provinces, which, taking them
from N.W. to S.E., are Nagar D.,
Ashtagrdm D., Nandidurg D. Nagar
Division contains 3 districts : Shim6ga,
or Shivam6ga, Kadiir, Chitaldurg, or
Chitradurg. In Ashtagram D. there
are 2 districts, Maisiir and Hdsan. In
Nandidurg Division there are 3 Dis-
tncts: Bengaliir, Koldr, TumkiJiT.
Taking them in tbeir order from N.W.
to S.M, we begin with Sliim6ga. This

district lies between 13° 35' and 14*' 14
N. lat., and 73° 40^ and 75° 55' E. long.
From E. to W. its greatest length is
153 m. From N. to S. it measures
74 m. Its area is 3,797 sq. m., with a
pop. of 498,976 persons, or 131 '4 to
the sq. m. The Hindiis are 93*86 of
the pop., the Muslims 5*13, the Jains
•82, the Cliristians '19, and there is
one Pdrsl. There are 8 T'aluks : Chen-
nagiri, Honndli, Kaval^durga, Nagar,
Sdgar, Shikdrpiir, Shivam6ga, S6rab.
It is bounded on the N. by Dhdrwdd,
and on the W. by N. Kanara, both be-
longing to the Bombay Presidency. To
the E. it has Chitradurg district, and
to the S. Kadiir district. The princi-
pal rivers are the Shardvatl on the W.,
which rises near Kavaledurga, and
after a'course of 40 m. due N. turns to
the W., and after 3 more m. hurls
itself down nearly 1000 ft. over the
far-famed Falls of Gerscppa, or more
correctly G^rusappe, c^led locally
Joga. Next on the E. is the Vai'ada,
which after flowing for about 55 m.
along the N.W. and N. boundary of the
Province, passes into Dhdrwdd on its
way to join the Tungabhadra. The Tun-
ga rises near A'gunb6, and after flowing
55 m. is joined by the Bhadra, which
has come 80 m. to unite with it at
Kudale. The joint stream, thencefor-
ward called the Tungabhadra, after
33 m. more passes into the Chitradurg
district, and flows N.E. along the
frontier, beyond Harihara, receiving
on its 1. bank the Choradi, and on its
r. the Haridra. Thence leavuig Maisiir,
it runs N., dividing Madras Presidency
from Bombay, till joined on the 1. by
the Varada, when turning N.E. it
forms the demarcation between Madras
and the Nizdm's dominions, and joined
on the r. by the Hagari or Veddvatl,
it flows past Hampe, the site of the
ancient cities of Kishkindha, Ane-
gundi, and Vijayanagar, and falls into
the Krishna beyond Kamul. The
general elevation of this district is
2,100 ft. above the sea. On the W.,
touching the Ghdts, it is covered with
magnificent forests. "Trees of the
laigest size stand thickly together

Sect. IL

R(mte 10. — Maisfdr Province,

241

massive arms decked with a thousand
bright-blossoming orchids. Birds of
rare plumage flit from bough to bough.
From the thick woods, which abruptly
terminate on verdant swards, bison
issue forth in the" early mom and after-
noon to browse on the rich herbage,
while large herds of elk pass rapidly
across the hillsides. Packs of wild
dogs cross the path, hunting in com-
pany, and the tiger is not & off, for
the warning boom of the great langur
monkey is heard from the lofty trees.
The view from the head of the descent
to the Falls of G6rusappe is one of
the finest pieces of scenery in the
world " ( Rice's Gazetteer, vol. ii., p.
341). The Sulekere Lake, 6^ m. N. of
Chennagiri, is also very beautiful.
It is 6 J m. from E. to W., and 2^ from
N. to S. In May, the hottest month,
the thermometer touches 92° at 3 P.M.;
and in January, the coldest, 79* at
that hour. The sportsman will here
be in Elysium. Under the shade of
lofty forest trees he need not dread
the sun. Near the magnificent cataract
of G^rusappe he will encounter the
tiger, the panther, the bear, and the
bison, with abundance of less formid-
able game. Along the whole course
of the Shardvatl he may ply the rifle
and the smooth bore to his heart's
content, and crossing a little to the
E. in the Sdgar t'aluk, he will pro-
bably meet the elephant as well as
abundance of bears, bisons, panthers,
and tigers, and also wild hog, sAmbar,
spotted deer, and jungle sheep. The
woods are full of pea-fowl and jungle-
fowl, and the taiis are covered with
wild geese, ducks, and teal. In the
Tunga, and the tanks communicating
with it, the crocodile is to be met
with. And tiger cats, civet cats, and
other curious creatures are found.
The archaeologist will find much to
interest him in ancient grants, 3 of
which date froin Janmejay, son of
Parlkshit, whose date is given by Wil-
son as 1300 B.C. (Prinsep's Ind. Ant.,
ii., 237). A Chdlukya inscription
lately discovered is of Saka 366=444
A.D. In the t'alu^ of Sdraba, about
15 m. N, of Sdgar, is Xubatiir, an-
ciently Kuntalanagara, said to be the

capital of Chandrah&sa, whose story
is told in the Mah4 BhAmta. Close to
the N.W. frontier of S6raba is Bana«
vasi, to which a Buddhist Missionary
was sent about 245 B.C., and which is
mentioned by Ptolemy. It was the
capital of the Kadamba kings, a
dynasty founded about 168 A.D., as
inscriptions of that date exist referring
to the founder. Banavasi is said to
have been founded by Mayiira V armma,
who brought Brahman colonists from
N. Panchdla, or Rohil Khand. The
present Haiga Brdhmans claim to be
descended from them. In the 6th
cent, the ChAlukya king, Klrttl Varm-
ma, subdued the Kadambas. Bala-
gdmi, about 20 m. E. of Banavasi,
subsequently became the capital about
the 10th cent. , and remarkable ruins
exist there. Shivam6ga was, about
the 5th cent., a portion of the dominions
of the Chdlukya kings, who first
crossed the Nirbaddha, coming from
Oudh in the 4th cent. A.D., and
founded one kingdom at Kaly4n in
the Nigdm's territory, and another in
the E, at Vengi in the Delta of the
Goddvarl. The Jains under Jinadatta
of the Solar race. Prince of N. Mathura,
founded a principality in 159 B.C., at
Huncha, 14 m. E. of Nagar Bedmir.
He also made K&rkala, in S. Kanara,
the capital of his kingdom below the
Ghdts. His descendants became subor-
dinate to the Chdlukyas, the Hoysalas,
and the Rdjds of Yijayanagar, and
were finally conquered by the Keladi
chiefs. The Kalachuryas subdued the
Chdlukyas, and ruled for 3 generations
at Kaly^a do^vn to 1182. Bijjala
Deva, the first of this family, de-
throned the Chdlukya king in 1155.
Bijjala*s Prime Minister was Basava,
who founded the sect of the LingAyats.
In the 12th cent, the Hoysala Balldlas
had subdued the whole of Maisiir,
their capital being Dorasamudra, or
Halebid in the Hdsan district. They
advanced N. of the Tungabhadra,
and came into collision with the YA-
davas of Devagiri, cfr Daulatdb&d.
Their capital Dorasamudra was sacked
by the MLn\iam3naA.«£v& xmi^at '^^A^ Nsk-
1310, and'totaUy de^\?co^^^ \:cl V^^^^^
after wbicla. ^e^ ei^^^^^i^^-

SoiUe lO.-^Madras to BengalUr*

Sect. 11.

The Vijayanagax kingdom arose in
1836. The Keladi princes began their
career as vassals of Vijayanagar.
Bhadraiya of Keladi found a treasure,
and obtained from Sada Shiva Bdyd
of Vijayanagar in 1560, the govern-
ment of Barki!ir, Mangalilr, and Chan-
dragutti. His successor moved the
capital to Ikk^ri, and in 1639 it was
transferred to Bedniir under the
Eegency of Sivappa Ndyak. He died
in 1670, and his descendants continued
to rule till 1763, when ^aidar 'All
captured Bedmir.

The CJiitradurg dMiict of the Nagar
Province marches with the Shim6ga
on the N.E. It Hes between 13° 35'
and 16° 2' N. lat., and 75° 43 and 77° 3'
E. long. Its length from E. to W.
is 120 m., and from N. to S. 88. Its
area is 4471 sq. m., with a pop. of
531,360 persons, or 118*8 to the sq. m.
Of these 96'3 per cent, are Hindiis,
3*4 Muslims, *15 Jains, *05 Christians,
and there are 4 P6ts1s. It is bounded
on the N. and N.E. by BalUri ; on
the N.W. by Dhdrwdd, the Tunga-
bhadra r. f oiiiing the liie of demarSa-
tion ; on the W. by the Shim6ga and
Kadiir district?. There are 8 t'aluks :
Biidih^, Chitradurg, DAvangere, Dod-
deri, Hiriyiir, Hosdurga, K^nkuppa,
P^vagada. The general elevation is
2000 ft. above the sea. The climate
is drier and hotter than that of the
other parts of Maisiir. The Vedavati
enters the district at the S.W. comer,
and after running 32 m. reaches
Hiriyiir, after which it takes the name
of Hagari, and after running N. for
48 m. enters BallAri Collectorate.
This district is crossed from S.S.E. to
N.W. by a belt of low hills about 20
m. broad. In the E. part of this
range is the peak of Jogl Maradi
3803 ft. high, and Nidugal 3780 ft.,
and Pdvugada 3026 ft. In the W.
part of the range Hosdurga, where it
begins, is 3280 ft. high, and Kdydurga
2797 ft. The hills are infested with
tigers, panthers, bears, hyaenas, and
wSd hogs. Deer are found chiefly in
Jiinyti, Chitradurg and Pdvagada.
Wild fowl are very abundant in the
t/irilcs of the S, parts of the district.
At Nirgunda, 7 m. to the W. by S,

of Hosdurga, and 34 m. B. of Bdgiir,
are ruins of an ancient date. The
place is referred to in an inscription
of the 5th cent. A.D., which shows
that Nirgunda, then called Nild-
vati-patna, was a dependency of the
Kongu or Chera empire, the capital of
which was Talkad. It successively
passed under the rule of the Chdlukyas,
the Hoysala Balldlas, and the Edjds
of Vijayanagar. The Ndyaks of
Chitradurg were chiefs of some im-
portance. They were of the Bedar or
Boya castes, caUed in Sanskrit Kiratas,
that is, hunters and mountaineers.
The family of the Ndyaks came origi-
nally from Jddikaldurga near the
shrine of Tripati, to Nirutadi near
Bharmasdgar in 1475. The grandson
of one of their leaders named Timmana
Ndyak, went to reside at Matti in the
Ddvangere t'aluk. In 1508 the Rdja
of Vijayanagar made him Ndyak of
Holalkere, then of Hiriyiir, and then
of Chitradurg, which he fortified, and
at last brought down upon himself an
attacking force under Saluva Nara-
singa Baya, whose horse he attempted
to steal. In attempting this he roused
the groom, who not seeing him, drove
a peg through his hand for the horse's
heel ropes. Timmana bore the torture
without moving, and when all was
still cut ofE his own hand and carried
off the horse. This brave act led to a
peace, and the successful robber-chief
was invited to Vijayanagar. He aided
the Bdjd in an expedition against
Kalbarga, but afterwards incurred the
Bdjd's displeasure and died a prisoner.
His son Obana was made Ndyak of
Chitradurg, and took the name of •
Madakeri. When Vijayanagar fell in
1564, he assumed independence. His
son, Kasturi Eangappa, succeeded him
in 1602, and got possession of Maya-
konda and other places. His son
Madakeri succeeded at his death in
1652, and reigned tUl 1674. His
adopted son Obana succeeded, and was
slain a few months after by his chief
officers. His son Surakdnta Rangappa
was slain by the troops. Chikkanna, a
younger brother of Madakeri,succeeded,
and died m \^'$>^. K 'i^d M^adakeri,
aad l\ien. ^Mi^'K^^«»i^Q'^Qi^^d,«vA \sv

Sect. II.

Eonte 10»^Harihar.

243

1689, Kuindra Bannappa, who reigned
till 1721. Chitradurg then became tribu-
tary to the Nilwdbs of Slra. His son,
Madakeri, allied himself with Ohanda
Sdhib in 1748, and was killed at the
battle of Mayakonda in single combat,
by the Harpanhalli chief. His son,
Kasturi Kangappa, succeeded and died
in 1754, when Madakeri, son of Bar-
mappa, succeeded, and was made pri-
soner by Haidar 'All in 1779, who
removed 20,000 of the Bedars to
Shrirangpatnam. The fort at Chitra-
durg is very extensive, and there are
many inscriptions on the hill of the
Chdlukyas, Ballalas and Vijayanagar
Kings. The palace in the inner fort,
b. by Tipil, has a fine fruit garden, and
is used as the office of the civil
employes. The upper hill fort is very
interesting, and in it are 14 temples.
The Murgi Math, where the chief
guru of the Lingdyats resides, is 3 m.
to the N.W. The more modern Ankll
Math is situate on wild picturesque
hills. This fort was once garrisoned
by British troops, but was given up on
account of its unhealthiness.

JBaHhar, in lat. 14** 31', long. 75° 61',
on the r. b. of the Tungabhadra, was
alfio till 1865 a cantonment, where
one regiment was stationed. In 1868,
a very fine bridge was constructed
here over the Tungabhadra, and over
it passes the trunk road from Ben-
galiir to Dhdrwdd. The bridge is of
stone and brick, has 14 elliptical
arches of 60 ft. span, and cost nearly
£35,000. Harihar is a very ancient
place, and interesting to the archaeo-
logist. It is said to have been in
primaeval ages the capital of a giant
named Guhdsiir, and to have been so
extensive that the E. gate was 17 m.
off at Huchangi Durga, the W. at
Mudamir, the N. at Airani, the S. at
Govinahdlu. Brahma had granted to
GuhAsiir that he should not be killed
by Vishnu or Shiva, whereupon he
became such a pest to gods and men,
that the two deities united in the form
of Harihar and slew him at Kudaliir,
the place where the Tungabhadra and
Haridra unite. An inscription on
copper has been found here of the
7th cent, and there are iseyeral of the

12th. The temple was erected in 1223
by PolAloa, Minister of the Hoysala
Balldla King, Vira- Narasinha. In
1268, additions were made by Soma,
genei-al of a subsequent king, and the
founder of Somndthpiir in the Maisiir
district, where there is a splendid
temple. In 1277, Saluva Tikkama,
general of Rdmachandra, King of
Devagiri, b. a temple to MahMeva.
The Kings of Vijayanagar bestowed
many benefactions on these temples
down to the 16th cent., and one of
them, Hakka, took the name of Hari-
hara Sdya. After the fall of Vijaya-
nagar, the Tarlkere chiefs seized the
place and b. the fort. The Niiwdb of
Savamir took it from them and gave
it in jdglr to Shir Khdn. It was then
sold to the Bedniir chief for a Idkh,
then captured by Mardthas, and in
1763 by Haidar. After that it waa
thrice taken by the Mardthas.

The 3rd district of the Nagar Divi-
sion, Kadilr, lies to the S. of the other
2, between lat. 13° 12' and 13° 68', and
long. 76° 8' and 76° 25'. Its length from
E. to W. is 83 m., and from N. to S.
45 m. Its area is 2294 sq. m., with a
pop. of 332,381 persons, or 145'6 to the
sq. m., of whom 12,017 are Muslims,
568 Christians, Jains 1316, outcasts
59,382, and wandering tribes 12,985.
Kadiir is bounded on the N. by
Shim6ga, on the E. by Chitradurg, on
the S. by the Hdsan district of the
Ashtagrdm Division, and on the W. by
the W. Ghdts, which separate it from
S. Kanara. There are 5 t'aluks : Bdn4-
var, Chikmagaliir, Koppa, Lakvalli,
Tailkere. Kadilr is pre-eminently the
Malndd or hill region of Maisiir. The
mountains are divided into 3 chains,
the Central, the Eastern, and the
Western. The Central begins in the
S. at Ball41 Rdydndurga, 4940 ft. high,
and runs N. dividing the basin of the
Bhadra r. on the E., from that of the
Tunga on the W. The B. range
is the Bdb4 Budan, which surrounds
the Jdgar valley. The highest peak
in this range and in all Maisiir is the
Mulainagiri, in about 13° 20', which is
6317 ft. aboNCi ^«A<k^^. ^. «:JL\^.^-«s..

244

Route 10. — Madras to BengaMr,

Sect. II.

W. range, which is part of the
W. Ghdts, has for its loftiest peak
Kudure Mukh, ' Horse-face,' which is a
land-mark to sailors, and is 6215 ft.
high. It is 8 m. due W. of Ballal
Rdydn durga, which has been already-
mentioned. Meruti gudda, 'Frag-
ment of Mem,' the sacred mountain
or Olympus of the Hindii, is 13 m.
to the W., and its height is 5451 ft.
above the sea. The general level of
the country ranges from 4015 ft. at
Nirvdni Mdtha to 2379 ft. at Harihar-
pur above the sea. The Tunga and the
Bhadra both have their sources in this
district at Gangamiila in the Tardha
parvata or *Boar mountain,' in the
W. Ghdts, 6i m. S. of Hoskere. The
Bhadra reaches the frontier after a
meandering course of upwards of 80
m., while the Tunga passes into the
Shim6ga district after 28 m. The
H6mdvati rises in the extreme S. of
the district, but immediately passes S.
into the Hdsan district. ThQ Berinji
HaJha rises near Amir, and after a
course of about 20 m. falls into the
Tagachl, which rises in the Bdbd
Budan range, and after a very short
course passes into the Hdsan district.
The V6dd rises near the great peak of
Mulainagiri, and flowing N.E. for 10
m., for which short distance it is called
the Gaunhalla, forms the beautiful
lake of Ayyankere or Dodda Madaga-
kere, 7 m. in circumference and dotted
with islands, the embankment being
1700 ft. long, and 300 ft,, high at the
rear slope. It then flows N.E. 38 m.
into the Chitradurg district. The Avati
rises near the same spot, and flowing
N. of the V^dd joins it 1 m. E. of
Kadiir, and the united stream is then
called the V6dAvati, which, as just
mentioned, passes into the Chitradurg
District. There is another large lake
near BAnAvar. The scenery of this
district is very lovely, and the sports-
man will find an over-abundance of
game. The elephant is found at Kuj
and Karra in the W. Ghdts, and bison
throughout the hills. Tigers, panthers,
and leopards are common, and the
bunting leopard or felis jvhata^ here
called tbesAivanga, is sometimes found.
^gerc^,t8 and ciretcats are met with,

and wild hog, porcupines, elk, spotted
deer, antelope, mungooses, squirrels,
and monkeys of various kinds abound.
Bustard, wild geese, ducks, teal, snipe,
jungle fowl, spur fowl, partridges, red
and black quail, peacocks, pigeons
blue and green, doves, hombills, wood-
peckers, and many other birds are to
be seen eveiy where. The rs. and tanks
are full of fish, and alligators are
numerous, as are also snakes, scorpions,
and spiders of an immense size, and
lizards.

The most celebrated place in this
district, which has been so little visited
by Europeans, is Sringiri, 5J m. S. of
Hariharpur. The name is properly
Sringa-girl or mountain of the Eishi
or Saint Sringa, so called because he
was adorned with horns. The history
of this worthy is to be foimd in the
Ramayana. His father was Vibhdndika,
who begot him without a mother, and
he grew up in this vast solitude with-
out ever having heard of a woman.
At that time the country of Anga was
suffering from dearth, and the King
Lomapdda was told by his Gurus that
the only remedy was to send for
Sringa. A band of damsels was there-
fore sent, who lured the sage away to
Anga, where rain fell on his arrival.
He then married the Princess Santa,
and became the priest of Dasaratha,
King of Oudh, and by performing
the ashvamedha or horse sacrifice pro-
cured him a son, who was no other
than Rdma, the 7th incarnation of
Vishnu. The Matha, a monastery in
the Tunga river at Sringari, was
founded by Shankardchdrya, the Saiva
reformer of the 8th cent. Sakardya-
patna on the Veddvati is another most
ancient city, and one of its kings,
Rukmdngada, is mentioned in the
Mahd Bhdrata. Hire-magal-iim (elder
daughter's town) or Harihar, and
Chikka-magal-iiru (younger daugh-
ter's town), which is 12 m. to the
S.W., were estates given by him as
the dowry of his daughters. On the
N. frontier of the District Halasiir, a
ruined village, marks where Ratanpiiri
stood, a city founded by Vajra Makuta
B.&ya, "wViosfe boiqs, ^oisi«*. ^J^sJcvk^^ ^s\)i

Sect. II.

EoiUe 10. — TumMr,

245

afterwards called Nirgunda in Chitra-
durga, and penetrating into the bed-
chamber of Vikrama Rdya, the king,
attached a paper to his ann demand-
ing the hand of his daughter, Rupavatl,
for the younger brother. The king
proclaimed that his daughter would
be given to the man who should slay
a lion that had taken refuge in a
garden in the town. The brothers
slew the lion and obtained the lady.
The Nirgunda spoken of was founded
by Nila Sekhara, a king who came
from the N. in B.C. 160. The fortified
height of Balldla Rdydn-durga bears
witness to the rule of the Hoysala
Balldla dynasty, of whom many in-
scriptions remain.

Tumli'&r^ adjoining Kadiir to the E.,
is in the Province ofNandldiirg^ with 3
districts, of which Tumkiir is conter-
minous with Kadiir. Tumkiir has an
area of 3,604 sq. m., with a pop. of
632,239 persons, or 176'3 to the sq. m.,
the Hindus being 96*4:0 per cent., the
Muslims 3*35, the Jains '24, and the
Christians '11. In this district there
are 8 T'aluks : Chikndyakanhalli, Hon-
navalli, Kadaba, Koratagere, Kimigal,
Maddugiri, Shird, Tumkiir. Hills run
N. and S. through the E. part of the
district, from Midag6shidurga 3376 ft.
high, 13 m. S. of which is Madhagiri-
durga, 3935 ft., and 4 m. S. of that
again Chan-ndrdyan-durga, Koratu-
giri, Devarayadurga, 3940 ft., and in the
extreme S. of the district Huliyiir-
durga, 3086 ft. The Jayamangala r.
rises near Devarayadurga, and runs
40 m. through the district in a N.
direction till it enters Balldri. The
Shimsha rises at the same place, and
flows S. 65 m. towards the Kdveri.
At Turuvekere on this r., in the S.W.
of the district, is a celebrated quarry
of amorphous hornblende, a black
stone of which the pillars of Haidar's
Mausoleum at Shrlrangpatnam are
made. At Turuvekere itself is a great
hasava or bull made of this stone, and
exquisitely polished. This is the finest
specimen of the stone extant. There
are 2081 tanks in the district, of which
that at Kimigal in lat. 13** is the
largest, being 14 m, round. Large
^ame is scarce except at Devaraya-

durga, where tigers, panthers, bears,
and wild hogs may be found.

Near Turuvekere, at Hale Tanduga,
Sh^ivdhana is said to have been bom.
A few m. to the E., at Sampige, in the
Kadaba T'aluk, was Champaka-nagar,
the capital of Sudhava, son of King
Hamsa Dhwaja (the swan flag). Kai-
dala, near Tumkiir, was the birth-place
of Jakandchdri, the most famous Hindi!
sculptor and architect that ever lived.
At the Chief Conmiissioner's Office at
Tumkiir is an inscription of the 8th
cent., which shows that the district
was then under the W. Chalukyas.
Inscriptions at Turuvekere show that
in the 11th cent, it was part of the
dominions of the Hoysala Balldlas,
and the temples at Naglapiir and
Kaidala are of that period. In 1638
the Bljdpiir army conquered all the N
of the district and Shlrd, with Dod Bal-
Idpur, Hoskot and KolAr, which formed
the Kamdtik. Bijapiir was placed
under Shdhjl. In 1687 Aurangzlb
made Shird the capital, and placed it
under Kdsim Khdn, who was killed at
Doderi'in 1695. and Zii'Lfa^dr Khdn
succeeded. Rustam jang built the fort.
In 1757 Shlrd was taken by the Ma-
rdthas, and restored after 2 years. In
1761 IJaidar took it with the title
of Niiwdb of Shlrd. In 1766 it came
under the Mardthas, and in 1774 was
reconquered by Tlpii. Devardyadurga,
a fortified hill 9 m. E. of Tumkiir, is
a cool retreat for Europeans. The
scenery is wild and picturesque, and
sport may be had there. Huliyiir-
durga, "Tiger-town-hill," so ciled
from the tigers which infested the
jungle round it, is a place near which
gold used to be found. In the ex-
treme "W. of the district, in the same
parallel with Tumkiir, but 47 m. to the
W., is Honnavalli, which, till a few
years since, was the head-quarters of
the district, which Tiptiir, 8 m. to the
S.E., now is. The place is called from
Ifonnu-amma, "Golden Mother," the
goddess who, in a vision, directed
Someshvara, one of the Balldla Kings,
to found the town, M»sx^ "SiT^jKSfiaisss^
live at t\^a i^\ace, «ci^\\.\%\«5s^«CL^'t^
a rare Vm^ ol ^^^^"^"^X "^^^^v" j^^

246

Eoute 10. — Madras to Bengal'Ar,

Sect. 11.

whence it is called GangA panU or
"Ganges water." At Xaidala, "re-
stored hand," the famous architect and
sculptor, the greatest of Hindu artists,
Jakandchdri,wa8 bom. The town was
formerly called Krlda-puray and when
Nripa Rdya was ruling there, Jakana-
chdri began his career. He then went
into the service of various sovereigns,
and produced the astonishing temples
of Halebld and B^liir. After he had
left his birth-place a son was bom to
him, named Dankandchdri, who de-
tected a flaw in one of his statues,
which Jakandchdri had guaranteed to
be faultless on pain of losing his right
hand. When the flaw was shown, he
cut off his right hand, but in dedicating
a temple to Keshava, his hand was re-
stored to him. At the N.E. extremity
of the district is Mad^giriy prop. Madhu-
giri, " Honey-hill," where are 2 large
temples to Venkat Rdmana-swdmi and
Malleshwara, which stand side by side.
These are worth a visit. Round the
eaves of the 'roof of the Malleshwar
temple runs a very graceful ornament,
representing doves or pigeons of life-
size in various natural attitudes. The
fort was founded 3 or 4 cent, back by
Rdjd HIra Gauda. In 1678 his de-
scendants, Rdma and Timma, brought
on themselves an attack from the Rdja
of Maisiir, who took the fort after a
year's siege, and carried the Gaudas
and their families to Shrtrangpatnam.
In 1763 IJaidar 'Ali sent the Rdnl of
Bedmir and her paramour as prisoners
to this place, where they remained till
the place was taken by the Mardthas in
1767. In 1774 they were driven out by
Tlpii, but plundered the place of eveiy
thing valuable. There is an extensive
trade here in brass, copper, and silver
vessels, and fabrics of iron, steel, and
coarse cloths. The fort called Mad-
giridurga is on a hill 3935 ft. above
sea-level, accessible only on the N.
side, and there so steep that when the
garrison poured oil on the rock it
could not be climbed. Buchanan says,
" The view on approaching it from the
M is much £ner than that of any hill
fort; I have seen, "
S/i^ra, generally v^nti&a. Sira, in
m 13" 44', long. 76^ 58\ 33 m. N.N.W.

of Tumki'ir, has now only a pop. of
4231 persons, but was once the capital
of a province with 7 2^o^ff^nn7is, viz. :
Basavapatna, Biidihal, Shlra, Penna-
konda, Dodballdpur, Hoskot and
Koldr, with Harpanhalli, Kondarpi,
Anegundi, Bedmir, Chiti-adurg, and
Maisur as tributary states. Under
Dildvar Khdn Shird is said to have
had 50,000 houses. His palace, now
in ruins, is said to have been the
model on which the palaces of Ben-
galiir and Shrlrangpatnam were built.
Tumkiir, in lat. 13' 20', long. 77" 9',
and 43 m. N.W. of Bengaliir, is the
capital of the district, and has a pop.
of 11,170 persons. The name is from
tumuhi, "a small drum," as it was
granted to the drummer of the Kai-
dala Rdji as his flef.

Koldr District,

This District of the Nandidurg Divi-
sion is situated between 12° 48' and
13° 57' N. lat., and 77° 26' and 78° 39'
E. long. From N. to S. it is 85 m.
long, and about the same from E. to W.
Its area is 2577 sq. m., with a pop. of
618,954 persons, or 240*2 to a sq. m.
Of these 651 are Jains and 613 Chris-
tians.

There lOT'aluks : BetmangaJa, Chik-
ballapur, Goribidniir, Gudibanda, Gum-
nayakanpalya, Kolai', Maliir, Mulbdgal,
Shidlaghatta. The chief watershed is
around Nandidurga, 3 m. to the S. of
Chikballdpur. The N. Pindkinl rises
here, and flowing N. for 27 m., passes
into Balldri CoUectorate. The S. Pind-
kinl flows for 15 m. to the S.E. and S.,
and enters the Bengaliir District. The
Paldr also rising near the same locality,
runs 50 m. to the S.E., and enters N.
Arkdt. The Arkdvati also flows S.,
and after a few m. enters the Bengaliir
District. The Pdpaghni flows N.E. for
30 m., and enters Kadapa CoUectorate.
The Chitdvati, after a course of about
the same length as the Pdpaghni, but
N. by W., enters Balldri C/ollectorate.
.The principal range of mountains runs
N. from Nandidurga, the highest peak,
to 0\idi\iasid»i ShTid 'D\v«rcaa.^a.ram in
Bail&ii. "Fiom "^Q Vi V^ mAo 'O^-e;^,

Soct. IT.

MoiUe lO. — JSengalUr District,

iii

tary peaks of Ambajldurga, 4397 ft.,
and Rahimdndui'ga, 4277 ft.' There are
5497 tanks, covering 120,000 acres.
Gold is found in the low hills which
cross the Pdldr and run S. through
the Betmangala T'alu]^, and are com-
posed of soft ferruginous clay. There
is not much to allure the sportsman in
this district besides a few bears in the
Budikota jungles, in the S. part of the
district, about 10 m. from the gold
mines, which lie to the E. In the
hills near Nandidurg panthers and
wild boars are found.

At Avani, 13 m. E. of K61dr,Valmlki,
the author of the Rdm^yana, is said to
have lived, and Rdma to have stopped
on his way back to Ayodhya after the
conquest of Lanka. Here Sltd retired
after being repulsed by her husband,
and gave birth to Kusa and Lava, the
twins of whom Valmlki was preceptor.
The hills on the W. of K61dr, called
the Sata sringa^ or " hundred-peaked,"
are the scene of Parasa Rdma's slaugh-
ter of Kartavirydrjuna, for murdermg
his father, Jamadagni. It is said that
K61dr has its name from the Koldhala^
or "shouting" at that feat. Nandi-
durg^ 31 m. N. of Bengaliir, was thought
impregnable by Tlpil, being inaccessi-
ble except from the W., and there
strongly fortified. It was taken how-
ever by General Meadows, on the 19th
October, 1791, with the loss of only 30
killed and wounded, chiefly by the
tremendous masses of granite rolled
down the rock on the heads of the
assailants. It was as the storming
party formed that Meadows overheard
a soldier whisper that there was a
mine. " To be sure I " said the Gene-
ral, " there is a mine, a mine of gold 1 "
The large house on the summit was a
favourite retreat of Sir Mark Cubbon
in the hot weather. Koldvy the capital
of the district, in lat. U^ 6', long. 78^ T
and 43 m. E.N.E. of Bengaliir by road,
but connected v«dth it by rail which
joins that to Bengaliir at the Bowring-
p6t (so called from Mr. Bowring, Chief
Commissioner in 1864) or K61dr Road
Stat., 10 m. to the S., has a pop. of 9924
persons. The most interesting build-
ing is the tomb of Fat!} Muhammad
S^dn, father of Gaidar 'ALL, oi whom

mention has been already inade. The
place is notorious for its peculiarly
venomous scorpions, whose sting is
often fatal.

JSengaMr District,

This district, which forms the S. por-
tion of the Nandidurg Division, lies
between 12** 13' and 13' 23' N. lat.,
and 77° 7' and 78** 4' E. long. From
N. to S. it measures 85 m., and E« to
W. 50. Its area is 2914 sq. m., and
its pop. 828,534, of whom 17,613 are
Christians, and of these 4115 are
Europeans, 2444 Eurasians, and 11,054
Indians. The district is bounded on
the N.E. by the K614r District, and on
the N.W. by that of Tumkiir ; on the
S.W. by the Malsiir District, and on
the S.E. by Salem. For 10 m. on the
S. the Kdv6ri separates it from Koim-
batiir. There are 9 T'alu|:8 : Anekal,
Bengaliir, Closep6t, Devanhalli, Dod-
bdllapur, Hoskot^ Kankanhalli, m4-
gadi,Nelamangala. The ArkAvati, vari-
ously named in its branches as the
Kumndvati and the Vrishabhayati,
flows completely through this District
fi'om N. to S., and then falls into the
Kdv6ri. The Pin4kini passes into
Salem after a similar K. to S. course
of 35 m. The Rly. Stat, at Bengaltir
is 3034 ft. above sea-level, and other
parts of the district do not sink 200 ft.
below that height. The temperature
ranges from 63** in February to 96' in
May, and the average rainfall is 36 in.
In ancient times this District is said to
have formed part of the great Danda-
kdranya forest, in which the sinilia or
" lion," the sardula or " tiger," the
kunjara or "elephant," the mahis?ut
or "buffalo," and the chamdra or
" bison," are said to have existed. In
the S. of the Kankanhalli T'alul: the
elephant still sometimes appears, the
others are extinct, but pantiiers, wild
hogs and porcupines, and deer are to
be found. In the woods jungle fowl,
pea fowl, and spur fowl may be met
with ; and in the open countiy bus-
tard, florican, partrid^e.^, o^^V ^kjA^
pigeons*, aa^ \xl ^Jti^ \»sJ&& «cciJ^>\J5sfi^%
1 and wild ducAss. ^ , -^x»v-x^

R(ncte 10. — Madras to Bengaltir.

Sect. IL

are described in the Routes to Maisiir,
but one or two which lie out of the
way may here be mentioned, should
any adventurous traveller, disregarding
extreme discomfort and risk of fever,
resolve to visit them.

Sdvanadurga is a remarkable hill fort
15 m. N. of Closep6t, and 7 m. S.E. of
the town of Mdgadi, which is a muni-
cipal town of 3712 inhabitants and
the head-quarters of a T'aluk. The
hill of Sdvanadurga is a mass of granite
rising to 4024 ft. above sea-leveL Two
peaks form the summit, parted by a
chasm, and each abundantly supplied
with water. They are called the Kdrl
or " Black Peak," and Bill or " White
Peak." These were fortified in 1543
by Samanta Rdya, who governed the
Mdgadi T'aluk for the Achyuta Rdya,
King of Vijayanagar. He fixed his
residence there with a garrison of
8000 men and declared himself inde-
pendent. He died in 1571, and was
succeeded by his son, Chikka Rdya,
who drowned himself in 1581. One
Ganga then seized the place, but was
put to death by Inunadi Kempe
Gauda of Bengaliir, and he and his
descendants held it till 1728, when
Deva RdjA, General of Maisiir, cap-
tured it and carried off Mummadi
Kempe Gauda, the last chief of his
line, a prisoner to Shrlrangpatmam,
where he died. It then came under
the power of IJaidar and Tlpii, and
was taken by Lord Comwallis on the
10th of December, 1791, as described
by Wilks, vol. iii. p. 200 :— " Lord
Comwallis determined to employ the
intermediate time in attempting the
reduction of those places, of which the
most formidable, and reputed to be
the strongest in Maisiir, was Sdvan-
durg, a place which at one time he
had determined not to attack, from
the great improbability of success.
This enormous mass of granite is con-
siderably more elevated than Nandi-
durg, and stands upon a base at the
least 8 m. in circumference, every-
where apparently inaccessible from
helow, and at the height of about two-
^Mrds of its total eJevation, separated
fy^ a cbaBm into tvro citadels, each
iudependeat of the other, and both

abundantly supplied with water.
Exclusively of the convenient posi-
tion of this fortress, as the head-
quarters of a corps, to interrupt the
communications, its extraordinary
height commanded a view of every
convoy that could move on either of
the 2 principal roads. On the return
of the army from Kaniambidi, the
place had been carefully reconnoitred ;
it was then deemed to be unassailable,
and the discouragement was increased
by the reputed insalubrity of the woods
and impenetrable thickets by which it
is surrounded. The capture since that
period of a considerable nmnber of
hill forts hitherto deemed impregnable,
and particularly of Nandidurg, en-
couraged the English general in the
attempt, which if successful, he ex-
pected to be followed by the early
surrender of all the others that he
desired to possess.

" Colonel Stuart, with 2 European
and 3 Native Corps and a powerful
artillery, was detached for the imme-
diate couduct of the siege, and Lord
Comwallis made a disposition of the
remainder of the army to watch every
avenue from Seringapatam, by which
the operations of Sie siege might be
disturbed. Colonel Stuart encamped
within 3 m. of the place on the 10th
of December, and immediately com-
menced the arduous labour of cutting a
gun road through the rugged forest to
the foot of the rock, a work which,
added to the difficulties of dragging
iron 24-pounders over precipices nearly
perpendicular, called for a degree of
incessant exertion and fatigue which
could scarcely have been exceeded.

" The batteries opened on the 17th,
and the breach in what was named
the lower wall of the rock, although
at least 1500 ft. higher than its base,
was deemed practicable on the 20th.
Immediately overlooking it, at a pre-
cipitous height, and perfectly well
situated for destroying, by the usual
artillery of rocks and stones, everything
that should attempt to ascend beyond
the breach, was a range of ancient
wall. Lord Comwallis had come
from t\i^ caxQ-V^ ^'^'eX^^oX. 1 Ta.., \.ci ^\t«

Sect. II. Soute 10. — Savanadurga — Shivaganga.

249

ordered to their stations, and the garri-
son was seen to be collecting behind
this wall. This observation fortunately-
prevented the assault on that day ; the
experiment was made of pointing with
sufficient elevation by receiving the
trail of the gun carriage into an exca-
vation behind the platform. The exe-
cution was not only perfect, but the
wall was found to be so frail that a few
discharges must dislodge its defenders.
The arrangements for the ensuing day
were founded on the fact thus oppor-
tunely ascertained, the batteries were
prepared for the purpose, and in the
morning the requisite number of guns
were directed against this wall with
the most perfect success ; every person
behind it was dislodged, and the
storming party, having been placed
without observation within 20 yds.
of the breach, the assault commenced
by signal at 11 o'clock in the fore-
noon.

" The defenders had been so unex-
pectedly dislodged from their appointed
positions, that no new disposition had
been made. The assailants accordingly
ascended the rock without the slight-
est opposition, clambering up a preci-
pice, which, after the service was
over, they were afraid to descend.
The eastern citadel was completely
carried ; and the assailants, on reach-
ing the summit of the rock, had the
satisfaction'^io descry a heavy column
of infantry, destined to reinforce the
garrison, in full march to enter the
place, which would have been effected
if the assault had been postponed,
even for half-an-hour. A division of
the assailants, after ascending consi-
derably above the breach, had been
directed to turn to the right along a
path which had been observed to be
practised by the garrison, leading
along the side of the rock to the
western citadel. The ^laddr of that
citadel, observing the defenders of the
eastern rock to be driven from their
post above the breach, and the as-
sailants to have begun climbing up,
sallied with the view of taking them
in flank, but was unexpectedly met
amoDi,' the rocks by the division de-
/Bcn'bed; and at the same instant a

few well-directed shots from the bat-
teries fell with great execution among
his troops. He retreated in surprise
and dismay, followed with great energy
by the English troops. At this instant
the assailants, who had gained the
highest eminence of the eastern rock,
obtained a distinct view of the pursuit ;
they observed the kilad^ to fall, just
as he approached the gate of his citadel,
and the pursuers to enter with the fu-
gitives. Everything was carried within
one hour from the commencement of
the assault, and an enterprise which
had been contemplated by Lord Com-
wallis as the most doubtful operation
of the war was thus effected in 12 days
from the first arrival of the troops and
6 of open batteries, including the day of
the assault, with a moderate amount of
casualties in the previous operations,
and in the assault itself his Lordship
had not to regret the loss of a single
life."

After this captiu-e the fort was de-
serted, as we learn from Buchanan,
vol. i., p. 170, and the difficulty of
visiting it is considerable. Buchanan,
who was provided with all the appli-
ances for travelling, spent several days
in examining the forests in the hollow
ground near the r., which tire some of
the best in the country, the trees
growing to a considerable size. Wild
beasts are numerous.

Sliivaganga is a sacred lull in the
N.W. of the Nelamangala T'aluk, which
rises in an acute conical peak to the
height of 4559 ft. Its outline on the
E. is said to resemble a bull, on the
W. Ganesh, on the N. a serpent, and
on the S. a Lingam. The number of
steps to the top is said to equal the -
yojanas or leagues to Bandms, and
hence the ascent is as meritorious as a
pilgrimage to that city, and the place
is called the W. KAshl. On the N.
face are many buildings, erected by
Kempe Gauda, "the Red Chief" of
Mdgadi. The 2 principal temples to
Gangdidhareshwar, " Shiva bearing the
Ganges," and Honna Devamma,
" Golden mother goddess," are made
out of nditvxisii ca.NetTL^. Twi^^^^^t'<teRw
hill are covet^^ V\VXiV>r« \x5sv^^>*-^

250

Eoute 10. — Madras to Bengaliir,

Sect. 11.

The place is only 18 m. N. of Magadi,
bnt means of transport are scarce.

The history of the Bcngaliir District
will be dealt with under Bengaliir.

Ashtagrdm Division,

Matsiir District, -^Thia is the most
8. part of the province, and lies be-
tween lat. 11° 36' and 12" 45/, and long.
75° 56' and 77° 24', and has an area of
4128 sq. m., and a pop; of 943,187
persons, or 228*5 to a sq. m. There
are 2250 Jains and 2249 Christians.
The Hindils are 95*3 of the pop., and
the Muslims 4*3. There are 1 1 T'aluks :

•

Ashtagrdm, ChdmarAjanagar, Gund-
lup^t, Heggadadevankot, Malvalli,
Mandya, Maisiir, Nanjangud, Periya-
patna, TalkM, Edatur, besides the Jdgir
of El^ndiir. The District is bounded
on the ij*. by tjie HAsan and Tumkiir
districts, on the E. by thf^t of Ben-
galiir and the Koimbatiir Collectorates,
on the S. by the Nllgiris and Malabdr,
and on the W. by Kurg. The Kavdri
r. separates Maisiir from the Hdsan
District, but after reaching Shrlrang-
patnam, traverses Maisiir for 50 m. in a
S.E. direction, and then, turning to
the N., forms the beautiful catal'act of
Shivasamudram. The Lakshmantlrtha,
after a meandering course of more
than 30 miles in a N.E. direction
through the district, falls into the
Kdv6ri, as does the Kabbani, Kapinl,
or Kapila r., after a similar course of
65 m. The Shimsha r., running from
N. to S., falls into the Kdv^ri,
after a course of more than 40 m. a
little to the E. of Shivasamudram.
Lofty mountain ranges covered with
vast forests, the home of the elephant
and tiger, shut in the W., S., and
some part of the E. frontier. The
principal range within the District is
the BUigirirangam in the Yelandiir
jdglr at the S.E. extremity of the
District. These hills rise 5000 ft.
above the sea. In the centre of the
S. part of the District, near Gundlupet.
the hill of Gopdlswdmi is 4500 ft!
Iiigh, and that of Chdmundi a little S.
of Maisiir city, is 3489. French Rocks,
J^> of SbrirangpatnaiDf are 2882 it.
^Jg-Ii* The conniij falls giaduaHy

from W. to E. fi'om 2826 ft. to 2337 ft.
There are 9 Anakatts or masonry dams
across the Kdv^ri, 7 on the Lakshman-
tlrtha, 1 on the Shimsha, 1 on the
Naga, and 2 on the Suvamavati.
Gotd dust is found in the streams of
the Heggadadevankot T'alu^. The
average i-ain-fall is 28*9 in. The
climate is hotter than that of the
Bengaliir District, and during the cold
months intermittent fevers prevail
The sportsman will find any number of
tigers in the Heggadadevankot T'aluk,
and they are still numerous in that of
Periyapatna, though greatly decreased
since Buchanan^s time. He says,
vol. i., p. '96, " In the inner fort there .
are no inhabitants, and tigers have
taken entire possession of its ruins.
A horse, that strayed in a few nighta
ago, was destroyed ; and even at mid-
day it is considered dangerous for a
solitary person to enter. It was
deemed imprudent for me, who was
followed by a multitude, to enter into
any of the temples, which serve the
tigers as shelter from the heat of the
day, by which these animals are much
oppressed." It is now not permitted
to kill elephants unless they are doing
mischief. Their number has de-
creased, but that there are many still
may be inferred from the fact that on
the 17th of June, 1874, Mr. Sanderson
captured 55, of which 13 were tuskers.
This was at Hardanhalli* about 5 m.
from Chdmrajnagar, in the extreme S.
of the District.

There is an ancient legend that 3 m.
S.E. of Chdmrdjnagdr, a city existed
called Manipur in Ski*., and Haralukot
in Kanarese, which is mentioned in
the MahAbhdrata. Chitrangada, the
"Princess of this city," married Ar-
juna, and had by him a son called
Babhruvdhana. This would give the
place an antiquity of some 2200 years
at least. The inscriptions are of the
Balldla kings, and 800 years old.
Mention is made of Mahishiir, or
Maisiir, in the Mahawanso, when,
after the 3rd Buddhist convocation,
245 B.C., a missionary was sent thither.
OeneisA. Owwwin^tLam^ however, thinks

to.

Sect. II.

Soute 10. — Hdsaii District.

251

Among places lying out of the
common routes, and not likely to be
visited by trayellers, but interesting to
the archaeologist, is Talkad, in
lat. 12" ir, 77" 5', on the 1. b. of the
Kaveri, and 28 m. S.E. of Maisiir city.
It is first mentioned (J. R. A. S. viii.,
35) under the name of the great city
of Davalanapur in the Kamata coun-
try. Hari Varmma, ruling in A.D. 280,
was installed at Skandapur in Koim-
batiir, but resided at Talkdd. which
thenceforth became the capital of the
Konga or Chera kings. Prom the 10th
to the middle of the 14th century
Talked was a possession of the Hoy-
sala Balldla kings, who at first made
it their capital, but then moved their
head-quarters under Vinaydditya to
Tuluva, and later on to Halebid. In
1634 it was conquered by the RdjA of
Maisiir.

Hasan DistHd, — This District lies
between lat. 12' 30' and 13" 32', and
long. 75' 32' and 76° 58'. It extends
95 m. from E. to W., and 80 fi-om N. to
S. The area is 3291 sq. m., with a
pop. of 669,961 persons, or 20,316 to
the sq. m. In Arkalgiid T'aluk there
are 529 persons to a sq. m. There are
1954 Jains and 2670 Christians. The
District is bounded on the N. by Kadiir
District, on the E. by Tumkiir, on the
S. by Maisiir District and by Kurg, and
on the "W. by S. Kanara. There are 9
T'aluks : Arkalgiid, Attikuppe, B61iir,
Chanrdypatna, Hdranahalli, Hdsan,
Manjarabdd, Ndgamangala, Nara-
eipnr. The general level of the
country slopes away towards the
S.E. from B41iir, which is 3150 ft.
above the sea, to Kannambddi, on the
extreme S., which is 2589 ft. The
main part of the District consists of
the basin of the Hemdvati, which flows
for 70 m. through the centre from N.
to S., and falls in the Kdv(^ri 10 m.
N.W. of Kannambddi. The Shimsha
skirts the E. frontier of the District for
30 m.. The Egachi, or Yegachi is an
affluent of the Hemdvati, which joins
it near Gonir in the A'rkalgiid T'aluk.
The mountains on the "W., which se-
parate this District from S. Kanara,
and which ran from the JBundh Ghdt
oa the N., 30 m, to the Bisale Ghdt on

; the S., display, among other peaks,
that of Subrahmanya, 5583 ft. high,
close to the S.W. frontier and Mum-
Jtannv-ff Jidda, "the hill of the three-
eyed," i. e., Shiva, and also Jenu-kallu-
betta, " honey- rock hill." At Shravana
beigola is Indrabetta, 3309 ft. high,
7 m. E. by S. of Chanraypatna,' and
on its summit is a colossal Jain statue.
The Malnad, or highlands^ which in*
eludes all ManjardbM T'aluk and the *
"W. half of B61iir, is thus described
(Rice's Gaz., vol. ii., p. 287 : —
" Perhaps there is no scenery in India
more beautiful than the S. part of this
tract adjoining the N.W. of Kurg. It
for the most part resembles the richest
park scenery in England. Hills
covered with the finest grass, or as
equally verdant crops of grain, adorned
and crowned with clumps of noble
forest trees', appear to have been planted
with care and perfect taste. The
highest and most lovely knolls have
been selected whereon to .build the "
monasteries and, places of worship
with which the country abounds. The
groves around are carefully tended,
arid the trees replaced as they die off
or are blown doWn. The S. differs
from the N. and W. parts of the Man-
jardbad T'aluk in the absence of a suc-
cession of dense jungles which obscure
the view, and in the soft .character of
the hills, which, in most instances,. are
as smooth as the lawn of a villa on the
Thames." The average rainfall is
36 in., but in approaching the W. ghdts
this rises to 100. There is a state
forest at KabbinAle, 14 sq. m. in extent,
one at Kagineri, 9 sq. m., and one at
Bdjimalle, 6 sq. m. Near Mahdrd-
jandurga there is a plantation of the
sandalwood tree. In the forests of
the Malndd, and rocky hills of the
Hdsan, A'rkalgiid, and Hdranahalli
T'aluk, tigers, chltds, bears, elks,
spotted deer, jungle sheep, and wild
hogs are quite common. The black
panther is occasionally shot in Man-
jardbad, and herds of elephants and
bison frequent the hilly tracts on the
verge of the ghdts. Wolves, hyaenajs^
monkeys, YaXi^ cai^, ^«ci^2sv^,^^-^<so?gass^
hares, sqy»iTe\B, «xi^ oXXet^ ^ssfc xssssafc-

252

SotUe 10. — Madras to BengalHr.

SectE

and partridges are plentiful, and in
the cold season wild geese, ducks, teal,
and widgeon, and many other birds
abound. The peregrine falcon is met
with on the ghdts in the Manjarabdd
T'alu]^.

The Kadambas, whose capital was
at Banavasi, ruled the W. half of this
district as part of their dominions
during the first 5 cen. A.D., while the
Cheras or Kongas governed the E. from
Talkdd. The Kadambas were suc-
ceeded by the Chalukyas in the 6th
cen., who from the 10th to the middle
of the 14th cen. were in power. Under
Vira BallAla and Vlra Narasimha, the
whole of the Karndta to the Krishna,
with Tnluva on the W., Drdvida on the
S. and E., and part of Telingdna on
the N.E., was embraced in the empire
founded by this dynasty, and under
them the temples of Halebid, B61iir,
and SomnAthpiir were erected. In
1311 KAfiir, the general of Aldu'ddln,
sacked Dorasamudra, or Halebid ; and
in 1326 Mul^ammad III. totally de-
stroyed the city. Vijayanagar was
founded in 1336, and i£e Rdjds ex-
tended their sway over this district,
and bestowed all the W. part of it on
a lute-player, and, after he had given
it up, on Singappa Ndyak, whose
grandson, Kri^hnappa, was ruling
there 135 years afterwards. In 1633
the Maisiir army took Chanrdypatna ;
anfi. in 1762 Qaidar conquered the
whole region. In 1771 the Mardthas
signally defeated Gaidar and Tlpi at
Chinkurali, 13 m. S.E. of Attikuppa,
plundered the temples at MeliJtot,
and burned the cars of the deities for
the sake of the iron. Kri?hnappa,
who was ruling the W. part of the
district, joined the Mardthas, who
were advancing to assist Lord Com-
wallis in 1792. His son, Venkatddri,
was governor in 1799, and tried to
make himself independent, for which
he was hanged, contrary to the wish
of Arthur Wellesley.

To return now to Bengaliir city,

which, as one of the most favourite

stations in India, calls for a lengthened

notice. The city stands in 12** 5T

iV: lat, and 77"* 35' E. long. It is the

ffeat of govemment for the state oi

Maisiir, a state nearly as large at
Bavaria, and is the head-quarters of
the Maisur division of the Madias
army. The pop. is 142,513, and the
Peta, or native town, and cantonment
together cover 13 sq. m. and 373J
acres, or } of the area of Londoo.
The name comes from Sengak^
" beans," as a legend says that Vlra
Balldla , who reigned 1191-1207 AJ),
having lost his way hunting, was
lodged in a solitary hut by an old
woman, and regaled with beans, which
was the only food she had, and which
he shared with his horse. The canton-
ment and city of Bengaliir stretch from
the Mahdrdjah's palace on the N.,
6500 yds. to the S. extremity of the
Koramangala Tank on the S., and an
equal distance from the W. end of the
P6ta on the W., to the Sappers' Practice
Ground on the E. This vast space
may be conveniently divided into Ben-
galiir Proper, which lies S. of the
Dharmambudhi and Sampangi Tanks,
both of which may be said to bound
the P6ta to the N., the former to the
"W., and the latter to the E. Begin-
ning with the cantonment, and talong
the noticeable things in order from
N.W. to S.E., the first building is the
Mahdrdjah's Palace, which is hand-
some, but not open to the pubhc
S.E. of this 850 yds. is the Rly. Stat,
and 300 yds. S. of that again is Miller's
Tank, which communicates by a small
stream with the much larger Halsiir
Tank, 1800 yds. to the E. Between
these 2 tanks is the Cantonment
Bdzdr, and N. of it the pleasant
suburb of Cleveland Town, in which
are some neat residences, and the R.
Catholic and St. John's Church. The
latter is 94 ft. from E. to W., includ-
ing the porch, and 40 ft. from N. to S.
There is nothing remarkable about it,
and only one tablet to a Captain Mon-
tague Foord, who was accidentally
shot, near Salem, on Nov. 8, 1868.
The Sappers' quarters are at the N.B.
comer of the Bdzar, and the Sipdhis'
lines at the S.W., and a little to the
E. of the latter the Bowring Civil
Hospital, thft London Mission Chapel,
and ^^, Mi"^e^'ft 15JctV,\svai\. \sl V^^^

Sect II.

Houte 10. — BengcUHr,

263

56 ft. 8 in. from N. to S. In this is
an extremely handsome piece of sculp-
ture in white marble in the wall
at the E, end, representing a fe-
male recumbent form, in memory
of Mary Elizabeth, wife of Colonel
MacGoun. She died in 1867. The
Main Guard adjoins this church on
the E. ; and a few yds. further to the
E. are the Infantry Barracks, and still
. further to the E. the village of Halsiir,
and a pleasant drive round the large
tank of the same name, with the
Sappers' Parade Ground to the E.
Directly S. of Halsiir are the Artillery
Barracks, and S, again of them the
Cavalry Barracks, the old Cemetery,
the Mounted Parade, and the Artillery
Practice Ground.

At the N.W. comer of the Artillery
Barracks is Trinity Church, which is
also i m. S. of the Halsiir tank. It is
the handsomest church in Bengaliir,
and measures 134 ft. from E. to W.,
and 56 from N. to S. There are many
fine tablets, particularly one under a
fine i length statue in white marble,
by MacDowell, R.A., to General Cle-
ment Hill, who served through the
Peninsular campaigns under his brother
Lord Hill, and when commanding the
Maisiir Division died on the 20th of
January, 1845, while on a pleasure
trip to the Falls of Gerusappe. There
is also a tablet to Captain Newbery,
who was killed while leading the
Maisiir horse in a charge against the
rebels at Shorapiir, 8th February, 1858.
Another records the death of George
S. Dobbie of the Eevenue Survey, who
was killed by a tiger at Shim6ga,
May 6th, 1875. A few hundred yds.
W. of Trmity Church are the "Wesleyan
Chapel, the Public Rooms, and the
Gymnasium, which stands in the
General Parade Ground, which is more
than a m. long from E. to W. A little
S. of its centre is the Telegraph Office,
and S.E. of that again the Roman
Catholic Cathedral, 100 yds. S. of
which is the Museum. Close to the
S. of these are the Traveller's b.,
and All Saints' Church. It must be
owned that the t. b. is inconveniently
far off from the rly. stat, being 2^ m.
distant. Perhaps at so large a place

a second house for the accommodation
of travellers ought to be supplied, and
unquestionably St. John's Hill or
Cleveland Town would be the proper
locality.

Near the W. end of the G. Parade
Ground, and adjoining it on the S.
are the General's House, the Band
Stand, and St. Mark's Church. All
Saints' Church is small, being only
63 ft. from E. to W., and 48 ft. 2 in.
from N. to S., with one brass tablet.
St. Mark's is also small, but has many
tablets, one of them being to Lieut.-
Col. Sir Walter Scott of Abbotsford
House, and of the 16th King's Hussars,
who died at sea on the 8th February,
1847, aged 46. W. of the General's
house, and close to it, is the Cubbon
Park. In this the neat building to
the W. is the Museum, which is well
worth a lengthened visit. In the
ante-room of the lower storey, remark
a slab with 12 Persian distiches brought
from Tlpii's Palace in the fort ; a figure
of a Jain deity with very superb carv-
ing round it, brought from a temple
in the Shikdrpur T'alukah in the Shi-
m6ga District of the Nagar Division ;
also some wonderful carvings from
Halebid. In the large room adjoining
there is a valuable collection of geologi-
cal specimens, of which, and of which
alone (1878), there is a catalogue. Up-
stairs are stuffed animals, and among
them a black panther, and a most
remarkable collection of fishes. W.
of the Museum 450 yds., is a fine
building 525 ft. long from N.E. to
S.W., which contains the public offices.
In February, 1878, a lunatic ascended
the cupola and hauled down the
British flag, which he replaced with
his handkerchief. On being interro-
gated, he said he had been informed
the British rule was over. The Conunis-
sioner's House or Government House,
as it is called, is about 400 yds. to
the W. of the Public Offices, and in
front of it is a good statue of General
Mark Cubbon, the first Conunissioner.
The house is handsome and commo-
dious.

We come no^ \iCi "acft^^XSa ^-t^-s^Rs^.^
which Yvaa aa «sftab ^1 ^'^ ^
sq. m, oxA. ot >l\v& \^. '^^^ ^^'^^ ^

254

Ecmte 10. — Madras to Bengalur.

Sect. II.

60,703, of whom 199 are Jains, and
668 Christians. The P6ta or town
was a few years ago surrounded by a
deep ditch and thorn hedge, as a
defence against the Marathas and
other marauders. There are 10 gates,
of which the chief are the Yelahaiika
on the N., the Halsiir on the E., the
Fort and Maisiir gates on the S.,
and the Agrah^ra and Sondekoppa
on the W. The Dodda-P6ta or High
Street runs from the Yelahanka to the
Fort gate, and separates the Ddshada
quarter on the W. from the Nagarta
on the E. A street crosses this at
right angles, and the point of inter-
section is the CJiavh or square, near
which is the Civil Office of the T'aluk.
There is an excellent market between
the fort and Maisiir gates. The Brah-
man officials live in the quarter called
Siddi Katte. The streets are some-
what narrow and irregular, but scat-
tered about there are well built and
imposing mansions belonging to
wealthy inhabs. The grain-market,
Taragiir-pite^ and cotton market, Arale-
pStej afford busy scenes of traffic.
~ The drainage is carried off from the
S. side 2i m. to the Sunnakal tank,
where the sewerage is applied for
agricultural purposes.

The FoH is due S. of the P^ta. It
is 2400 ft. from N. to S., and 1800 ft.
from B. to W. It could never have
been a strong place against European
troops. It is of an oval shape, with 2
gateways, one the Dihli gate on the
N. face of the Fort opposite the P^ta,
the other, the Maisiir on the S. face.
The Dihli gate is handsomely b. of cut
granite, and when Lord Comwallis on
the 21st of March, 1791, determined
to storm the place, there were 5 power-
ful cavaliers (Wilks, Hist. Sketches of
the S. of India, vol. iii. p. 123), a
faussebray, ditch, and covered way,
but in no part was there a perfect
flanking defence. The garrison, how-
ever, consisted of 8000 men under
Bahddur Khdn, and there were besides
2000 regular infantry in the P6ta, and
SOOO irregular. In addition to all, Tipii
himself y with an army very far snpc-
n'or in numbers to that of ComwalUs,
^aa prepared to take advantage oi

any error on the part of the besiegers.
The P6ta had been taken by the
English on the 7th of March, with a
loss on their part of 131 killed and
wounded, and among the killed Lieut.-
Col. Morehouse, an officer of great
merit. The Maisiir garrison lost up-
wards of 2000 men. The assault took
l)lace at 11 at night, and until the
Kiladar fell, a determined resistance
was made. Tipii's camp that night
was at Jignl, 6 m. to the S.W., but at
nightfall he moved up within 1^ m. of
the Fort, but the spirit of the assailants
overcame all difficulties, and the fort
was captured after a severe struggle
that same night. In the centre of the
fort is the arsenal, and there are some
remains of Tipii's Palace, but the
wheel has long since disappeared, in
which Sir D. Baird used to amuse Tlpii
and his ladies. There is a small temple
near the Maisiir gate. In vol. iii., p.
45, Buchanan gives an account of the
palace as it remained in his day. The
details are now of little interest.
About ^ m. to the E. of the fort is an
obelisk 30 ft. high, to the memory of
Col. Moorhouse (so it is written on
the obelisk), and 2 other officers
killed at the storm, and to 70 other
officers who died during the siege, as
also to all the men " who gallantly fell
at the siege, and died in the war of
1791-1792," the grand total of killed,
wounded, and missing, being 431,
with 271 horses killed or disabled.
The next place worth visiting is the
Ldl Bdgh, which is 1050 yds. to the
S. j:. of the fort, and is 2600 ft. long
from N. to S., and 1300 ft. broad from
E. to W. The band plays here at
stated times, and there axe some wild
beasts in cages.

Sect. 11. JBoute 11. — Chsepet — Maddiir — MdlvaUL

256

ROUTE 11.

BBNGALUE TO SHIVASAMUDBAM, THE
FALLS OP THE KAV^RI. 78M. 2F.
BY CARRIAGE OR PALKI.

Names of
Stations.

1. Kiunl>aIgod.

2. Bidadi . .

3. Closep6t .

4. Chennapat-

nam . * .

5. Maddi'ir

6. Malvalli . .

7. Shivasamu-

dram . .

Total .

M.F.

5 3
9 4

REltfABKS.

7
11 6
15

14 5

78 2

There is a Ist class t. b.
here and the road is
good all the way.

The h, here is 2nd class.
The village is small
but lias good water.

Tliis is a large town on
the 1. b. of the Arkdva-
ti r. There is a 1st
class b. From this,
MdgcKli and Sdvana-
durga may be visited,
distence 15+7 m.

2nd class b.

1st class b.

2nd class b. A town of
5114 inhab.

Ist class b. near the road
couuectuig 2 bridges.

ClosepSt, pronounced by Indians
KvZu'pi^e, is named after Sir Barry
Close, Resident at the Court of Maisiir.
In Kanarese it is called Hoaapite^
and in Urdii, Navapit, both meaniiig
" New Town." It is also sometimes
called R4mgiri, from the hill close Ijy,
at the foot of which the town originally
stood. It was founded in 1800 by the
Minister Pumaiya to secui'e the road,
which there passed through a jungle
tract. There was a horse-breeding
establishment for the Maisiir cavalry,
since removed to Kunigal in the Tum-
kiir District. It is a municipal town,
with 5460 inhab. Rdmgiri was forti-
fied and garrisoned by Tlpii, but it
surrendered with little or no resistance
to d^ptain Welch in December, 1791.
Maddiir has 2288 inhab., and was
formerly an important place, but
suffered heavily during the wars with
Tipii. There are 2 large Vaishnavite
temples here, sacred to Narasimh
Swdmi, and Varada Rdjd, "the Man-
Ition/' and '^ the boon-giving King."
A £ne brick bridge with 7 arches, b.

in 1850, spans the Shimsha, on the r.
b. on which the town is b. Tradition
says that the ancient name of Maddtir
was Arjunapura, and that it was b,
by Arjuna the Pdndu Prince. Vishnu
Vardhana of the Balldl line, who
reigned 1117-1138, is said to have b.
the tank and the temple to Varada
Rdjd, and to have given the town to
the Brdhmans. The fort was taken
by the Maisiir General in 1617, and
Haidar rebuilt it, and it was disman-
tled by Lord Comwallis in 1791.

Malvalli is the head-quarters of the
T'aluk of the same name, and a muni-
cipal town. The Maisiir-Kankanhalli
and Maddur-Shivasamudram roads
intersect here. There are 5114 inhab.
Haidar gave it to his son Tlpii, and
the rice fields near the tank are the
site of a garden which Tlpii formed.
On the 27th of March, 1799, Tipii
drew up his army 2 m. to the W. of the
fort and village of Malvalli. General
Harris advanced with the right or prin-
cipal division of his army under his im-
mediate command, and the left column
under General Wellesley. The un-
evenness of the ground causing an
interval between the brigades, Tipii
directed a charge of cavalry against
them, " which was prepared wifii de-
liberate coolness, and executed with •
great spirit." Many horsemen fell on
the bayonets of the Europeans, but no
disorder was caused in their ranks.
Col. Wellesley then moved to turn the
enemy's right, when Tlpii's infantry
advanced in front of their guns, and
received the fire of the .S3rd regiment
and the English artillery, until at 60
yds. from the Europeans they gave
way, and were immediately charged
by Col. Floyd with the brigade of
cavalry, which drove them off the
field with the loss of more than 1000
men, while the English lost but 69.
After the action Tipii destroyed Mal-
valli, to prevent its giving shelter to
the English.

The Falls of the Kdv^ri at Shiva-
samudram are certainly among the
most remarkable in the world. The
r. has in M.aisiLVi «v\. ^^^'tas^'i \iT^aSiSoL
of ironi SO^ lo \^ -^^'^.^Xsvs^^ "ttweL NisA

266

BotUe 11. — Bengal'&r to Shivasamudram. Sect. 11.

samndram it swells into a much broader
stream. The maximom flood discharge
roughly gauged at Banmir is 239,000
cubic ft. per second. The bottom of
the channel is mostly composed of
rocks, which increase the eddies and
foaming of the waters. A few miles
after the stream has passed Talkdd it
turns northward and forms an island
3 m. long, and about 2 m. broad,
round which it sweeps in 2 broad
streams, that on the r. or E. passing
within the frontier of Koimbatilr, while
that on the 1. or W. separates the
territory of Maisiir from Koimbatiir.
The island is called in Kanarese Heg-
gura, but is more generally known by
its Skr. name Shivasamudram, ^'the
sea of Shiva." The total descent of
the river from its point of separation
at the S. point of the island to its
reunion at the N. point is nearly 300
ft. The N., or more properly speak-
ing the W. branch of the r. is the
more considerable of the two, and
forms a smaller island called Ettlkur,
but Buchanan gives it the name (vol. ii.
p. 166) of Nellaganatitu, on either
side of which a vast stream thunders
down. The banks of the r. and the
island are thickly clothed with beau-
tiful forest trees, which cast a dense
gloom over the abyss into which the
waters are precipitated. As one stands
on the island deafened with the roar
of the cataract, and dizzied by the
lightning rush of the waters, it adds
something to the awe of the scene to
know that the place is full of tigers,
and that many a luckless pilgrim has
been carried away from the very spot
where one is standing to be devoured
, in those impenetrable thickets. Bu-
' chanan tells us that this island is
■ believed to be inhabited by a devil,
i and adds " the only persons who defy
j this devil, and the tigers, who are
i said to be very numerous, are 2 Mus-
lim hermits that dwell at Gagana
., chukki. The hermitage is a hut open
. • all round, placed opposite to the tomb
; of Pir Wafi, an ancient saint, and sur-
rounded hy some neat smooth areas,
and a number of flowering and axo-
matic trees introduced from the neigh
bouring forests. One of these heimitB

was absent on business ; the other had
no defence from the tigers, but his
confidence in the holiness of the place,
and his own sanctity." The main
island of Shivasamudram is the site
of a city which was built in the
beginning of the 16th cent, by Ganga
Rdjd (Gaz. vol. ii. p. 271) a kinsman
of the Rdjd of Vijayanagar. He is
said to have begun building before
the prescribed auspicious moment, and
consequently his city was doomed to
last for only 3 generations. His son
and successor Nandi Rdjd committed
some breach of ceremonial, which he
expiated by leaping into the cataract
at Gangana Cnukki on horseback,
with his wife seated behind him. The
ruin foretold fell on his son Ganga
Rdjd II., one of whose daughters mar-
ried the RdjA of Kilimale, a place
12 m. from Satyagala, and the other
the Rdj^ of Nagarakere, 3 m. E. of
Maddiir. These ladies enraged their
husbands by contrasting their mean
style of living with the magnificence
of their father. The 2 Rdjas resolved
to humble the pride of their wives by
attacking their father's city, which
they besieged ineffectually' for 12
years until his Dalavdy, or Com.-in-
chief betrayed him, and engaged him
in a game of chess while the enemy's
soldiers were passing the only ford.
Roused at last to his danger the R&jd
slew his women and children, and
then rushing into the battle was slain,
on which his sons-in-law and their
wives plunged into the cataract. Jagat
Deva, Rdjd of Channapatnam, and
Shrl Ranga, Rdja of Talked, then
sacked the city, and removed its inhab.
In 1791 Tlpii, on the advance of Lord
Comwallis, swept the adjoining coun-
try of people and flocks, and drove
them into Shivasamudram. After this
the island was deserted, and became
overgrown with dense jungle infested
with wild beasts. The bridges which
had led to the town, formed of huge
blocks of black stone, some placed
upright as pillars, and others laid
across in the manner of Egyptian
"buildSivg.^, -wet^ "Vstck'ea. wid dilapi-
dated. ^o^eN«, vcv \%1^ ^ ^^^5^^^

named "Rt»jcaa ^^^jmi ■^\5As^\^^, ^\vsi

Sect. II.

Horde 11. — Talkdd — Somndthpur.

257

was a confidential servant of the then
Besident of Maisiir, carried a fine
double bridge across the stream, re-
paired the temples, and b. a traveller's
b. laying out several thousand pounds
on tiie works, which it took him 3
years to finish. For this good service
the British Government conferred on
him the title of Jan6pak4ra Edmkarta
or " public benefactor." At the same
time he was invested with a jdglr or
grant of land of 5 villages by the
British Government, yielding an in-
come of Rs. 8000 a year, and of 7
villages by the Maisiir Government,
yielding Bs. 9000 a year. The bridge,
or bridges are b. of hewn stone pillars,
connected by stone girders built on
the rocky bed of the r., and though
rude are good specimens of Indian
construction. The Jdgird^r at the
same time erected a b. for travellers
close to the rd. connecting the 2
bridges, for the accommodation of
European visitors, who are hospitably
entertained at his expense. Gigantic
skins are shown in the b. of tigers
killed by the JdglrdAr in the vicinity.
The bridge on the Maisiir side is 1000
ft. long, and 13 ft. broad. The granite
pillars are 400 in number, and 20 ft.
nigh. At the end are 2 stone ele-
phants on pedestals. During the dry
season, when the island is feverish and
unhealthy, this great bridge seems one
of unnecessary labour and costliness.
But even when lowest the current is
strong, and brawls among the rocks,
and there are so many deep holes that
it is highly dangerous to attempt to
ford. In the rains it is a furious tor-
rent, impassable except by the bridge.
That is the best season for visiting tiie
place, both on account of salubrity, and
also for the spectacle. About 1 m.
distant from Gagana Chukki on the
E. bank of the r. is the cataract formed
by the S. branch of the K4v6ri, which
is called Bar-Chukki. These falls are
more easily viewed and, therefore,
more enjoyable. The height from
which the water descends is about
200 ft., and in the rainy season an
unbroken sheet of water J m. broad falls
aver the precipice to that depth with
stmming roar. In the dry season the

stream separates into sometimes as
many as 14 distinct falls. In the
centre is a deep recess shaped like a
horse-shoe, down which the main stream
plunges, and then being confined in a
narrow channel of rock, springs for-
ward with inconceivable velocity, and
falls a second time about 30 ft. into
a capacious basin at the foot of the
precipice. Both the N. and the S,
streams after forming these cataracts
rush on through wild and narrow
gorges, and reuniting on the N.E. of
the island fiow forwMd to the E. The
visitor will do well to choose the rainy
season for his visit, as well on account
of the greater beauty of the scenery,
as because the island in the cold months
is excessively feverish, so much so in-
deed that the colony planted by the
Jdglrddr has more than once required
renewal.

Talkdd. — ^While at Shivasamudram
the traveller may spend a day in visit-
ing Talkdd, which is 12 m. to the S.W.
The ancient city is buried in the sand,
and with it 30 temples, the tops of
some of which still project. The fine
temple of Vedeshwar is still uncovered
by the sand.

Somndthpur. — From Talked to Na-
rasipur, now the head-quarters of the
T'alu^, and possessing 2 venerable
temples, is only 10 m., and just across
the r. is the large village of Sosile which
contains the math or monastery of the
VyAsa K4ya SwAmi, the Onru or saint
of the Mddhva Brdhmans. N. of this
again 5 m. is the village of Somndth-
pur, famous for the temple of Pra-
sanna Channa E^sava. This is an
elaborately carved building attributed
to Jakandchdri, the famous sculptor
and architect of the Ballila kings.
Smaller than the temple at Halebid
this temple is more pleasing, as the 3
pyramidal towers or vimdnahs over the
triple shrine are completely finished.
The central shrine is that of Prasanna
Channa E^sava, that on the S. is sacred
to Gopdla, and that on the N. to Jandr-
dhana. Bound the outer base are
carved with much spirit the. ^TmciXj^'siJL
incidents in tYi'&'SLteak^^i.^^,^^^^^^^
Bh6.Tata and t\\fe^^i«^«^^ ^'^^^^.'^^
end of eac\i c\wk.^\«t =va meiice.Xfto^ \?3 ^

258

Moute 12. — Bengalur to Shnrangpatnam, Sect. II.

closed door, of each gection by a half
closed door. Around lie 74 mutilated
statues, which once stood on or around
the basement. There is a fine inscrip-
tion at the entrance which declares
that the bnilding was completed in
A.D. 1270 by Soma, a high officer of
the Balldla State, and a member of
the royal family. The vestibule is in
ruins, and the images are more or less
damaged. There are also the ruins of
a large Shivite temple with inscrip-
tions.

BOUTE 12.

BENGALUB TO SHBiBANGPATNAM AND
MAIStJB. 85 m. by PALKIOBCAB-
BIA6E.

Names of
Stations.

lto5.A8iuRte.ll.
Bengaliii to
Maddik .

6. Mandiam .

7. SettihaUi . .

8. Shrirangpatnam

9. Maisiir

Total . .

S<t3

Remarks.

M. F.

48 5

11 1

12 3
3 6
9 1

1st class b.

2nd do. , capital of a
T'aluk.

3rd class b.

b. and t. s.

t. b. and p. s., city
of 67,816 inhab.,
capital of a pro-
vince.

Shrirangpatnam^ vulgarly called
Seringapatamj is situated in lat. 12"* 25',
long. 76' 46' at the W. end of an
island in the K4v6ri 3 m. long from
E. to W., and 1 m. broad from N. to S.
It is a municipal town, the head-
quarters of the Ashtagrdm T'aluk. It
has now a pop. of 10,594 inhab. Buch-
anan (vol. i., p. 77) says that when
lie was there " the principal merchant

safely admit the former pop. of the
island to have amounted to 150,000."
He himself calculates the pop. at the
time of his visit. May 20, 1800, at
31,895 persons. The suburb of Ganjdm,
which occupies the E. end of the
island, was in Buchanan's time in a
ruinous state, and he says, " nothing
can have a look more dismal and
desolate," but it is now prosperous,
and carries on an extensive trade.
The town has its name from a temple
of Vishnu Shri-ranga. This temple
is of great celebrity, and of much
higher antiquity than the city, which
did not rise to be of importance
until the time of the princes of
the Maisiir dynasty. As a proof of
the great antiquity of this temple, the
fact may be cited that it is called the
Adi Ranga, or original Ranga, while
the islands of Shivasamudram and
Shrlrangam at TrichinApalli, are called
respectively, Madhya Ranga and Antya
Ranga, 'medieval Ranga' and 'modem
Ranga.' It is said that Gautama
Rishi worshipped at this temple, which
is in the fort. A Tamil memoir in the
McKenzie collection called Kojiga
desa Charitra commented on by Prof.
Dowson (J.R.A.S., vol. viii.), says, "On
the 7th Vaishdkha sudh, A.s. 816 =
A.D. 894, a person named Tirumalayan
b. a temple, and to the W. of it erected
an image of Vishnu, which he called
Tirumala Deva, upon some land 'in
the midst of the K4v6ri, where in
former times the Western RanganM
Swdmi had been worshipped by
Gautama Rishi,' but which was then
entirely overrun with jungle. This
place he called Shri Ranga Pattana."
In 1133, Rdmdnujdchdri, the Vaish-
navite reformer, took refuge in Maisiir
fi'om the persecution of the Chola
RAjA, and converted fi'om the Jain
faith Vishnu Vardhana, a famous RdjA
of the Hoysala Balldla dynasty. The
royal convert gave him the province
of Ashtagrdma including Shrirangpat-
nam, over which he appointed officers
called Prabhurs and Hebbars. In
1454, the Hebbar Timmana obtained

jn the place says that in the reign. oi\irom t\ift lBL^\k oi yi^a.-^a.uagar, the
^^P^, the island contained 500,000 \ govCTi\me;Ti\. oi ^\iTVxwi^^^\.^^^
^^tf'/'and adds, "Perhaps we ixiay\ leave to \)\niaL «. ioiX. t\vst^, T^\^\vfe

Sect. II. E(yiite 12. — Shrirangpatnam : The Fort,

259

did with a treasure he had found, and
he also enlarged Shrl Ranga's temple
with the materials obtained by de-
molishing 101 Jain temples at Kalas-
vddi, a to\wi 5 m. S. His descendants
governed till the RAjA of Vijaj'^anagar
appointed a Viceroy with the title of
Shri-Ranga-Rdyal. The last of these
Viceroys was Tlrumala RdjA, who in
1610 surrendered his power to Rdj4
Wodayar, the rising ruler of Maisiir ;
after which Shrlrangapatnam became
the capital of the Maisilr Rdj4s, and
of Haidar and Tlpii till the fort was
stormed by the British on the 4th of
May, 1799, when Maisiir became the
capital, though Bengalilr is now in
effect the chief city.

The Fort— The plan of the Fort is
an irregular pentagon about 1 J m. in
diameter fi'om S.E. to N.W., and f m.
in breadth. To the E. and S. the de-
fences were very strong, and the place
was, theref^e, stormed in 1799 by an ad-
vance across the r. against the W. side,
where, owing, perhaps, to a vain belief
in the security afforded by the stream,
the fortifications had not been made
so formidable. Buchanan says (vol. i.
p. 62) : The Fort occupies the upper
(Western) end of the island, and is an
immense, unfinished, unsightly, and
injudicious mass of building. Tipil
seems to have had too high an opinion
of his own skill to have consulted the
French who were about him ; and
adhered to the old Indian style of
fortification, labouring to make the
place strong by heaping walls and
cavaliers one above another. He was
also very diligent in cutting ditches
through the granite. He retained the
long straight walls and square bastions
of 3ie Hindiis ; and his glacis was in
many parts so high and steep, as to
shelter an assailant from the fire of
the ramparts. In the island also, in
order to water a garden, he had dug
a deep canal parallel to the works of
the fort, and not above 800 yds. distant
from them. He was so unskilled as
to look upon this as an additional
security ; but had it been necessaiy to
besiege the town legulaTly, the as-
sailant would have found it of the
utmost use. Had Tipd'a troops been

capable of defending the place properly,
this mode of attack would have been
necessary ; but confidence in their men,
and the difficulty of bringing up the
stores required to batter down many
heavy works, made our officers prefer
to attack across the r., where the
works were not so strong, and where
they ventured on storming a breach
that nothing but a very great difference
between the intrepidity of the as-
sailants and defendants could have
enabled them to carry. The depth of
the river was of little importance ;
but the assailants, in passing over its
rocky bed, were exposed to a heavy
fire of artillery, and suffered considera-
ble loss.

On ascending the breach, our men
found an inner rampart lined with
troops, separated from them by a wide
and deep diteh, and defended at its
angle by a high cavalier. After the
first surprise thus occasioned, the
troops soon recovered their spirits and
pushed on, along the outer rampart
towards both the rt. and 1. of the
breach. Those who went to the 1,
found great opposition. At every 20
or 30 yds. the rampart was crossed by
traverses, and these were defended
by the SultAn in person. The loss of
men here was considerable ; but the
English troops gradually advanced,
and the Sultan retired slowly, defend-
ing his ground with obstinacy. The
enfilading fire from the Bombay army,
on the N. side of the river, had been
so strong, that the defendants had
been entirely driven from the ramparts
on the rt. of the breach, and prevented
from raising traverses. Our people
who went in that direction did not
meet with the smallest opposition ;
and the flank companies of the 12th
Regiment having found a passage
across the inner ditoh, passed through
the town to attack the rear of the
enemy, who were opposing the Euro-
peans on the left. The Sul^dn had
now been driven back to the E. of the
palace, and is said to have had his
horse shot under him. H«^TQi^D&.\jaM^
gone out at a ^a\fc \ea^cai^ \r> 'Ocka ^.
branch ot t\ie t., wai^L TLo\Jc&!w^/y3^
have pIe>^eILled\iimtcom\o^s3MSi^xs^a

260

Boute 12. — Bengalur to Shrirangpatnam, Sect. 11.

cavalry, which under the command of
his son Fatl^ IjEaidar and Pumea, were
hovering round the Bombay army.
Fortunately he decided on going into
the inner fort by a narrow sally-port,
and as he was attempting to do so, he
was met by the crowd flying from the
flank companies of the 12th Kegiment ;
while the troops coming up behind
cut off all means of retreat. Both par-
ties seem to have fired into the gateway,
and some of the Europeans must have
passed through with the bayonet ; as
a wound evidently Inflicted by that
weapon was discovered in the arm of
the Sultdn. No individual claimed
the honour of having slain him, nor
did any of either party know that he
had fallen in the gateway. The as^
sailants were too much enraged to
think of anything but the destruction
of the enemy. Each division passed
on towards the E. end of the town,
and as they advanced the carnage
increased. The garrison threw them-
selves from the works, attempting to
escape into the island, and from thence
to their cavalry. The greater part
were killed by the fall, or broke their
limbs in the most shocking manner.
Mir $ddi^, the favourite, fell in at-
tempting to get through the gates.
He is supposed to have been killed by
Tlpii's soldiery, and his corpse lay for
some time exposed to the insults of the
populace, none of whom passed with-
out spitting on it or loading it with a
slipper ; for to him they attributed
most of their sufferings in the tyranni-
cal reign of the Sult4n.

The 2 divisions of the storming
army now met at an open place
surrounding a very fine mosque, into
which the remains of the garrison
withdrew, and with their destruction
the fighting nearly ceased. The num-
ber of burials amounted to somewhat
above 7000 ; several of these were
townspeople of both sexes, and all
ages ; but this was accidental, for our
soldiers killed none intentionally but
fighting men. When our two parties
bad met and no longer saw the enemy

ranks, and the camp followers poured
into the town, and an entire night was
employed in plunder. In this I believe
very little murder was committed ;
although many persons were beaten
and threatened with death, in order
to make them discover their property.
Next day the wounded of the enemy
were collected, and the mosque which
had been the great scene of bloodshed,
became now a place of refuge in which
these poor creatures had every atten-
tion paid to them by the British
surgeons.

A good view of the city and sur-
rouncBng country may be obtained by
ascending one of the mindrs of the J Am'i
Masjid, b. by Tlpii not long before his
death. To the N. about 6 m. off, is the
stat. called French Rocks, from its
having been occupied by a French regi-
ment in Tlpil's time. The highest point
is 2882 ft. above the sea. The real name
of the place is Hirod. The houses in
the fort have been for the most part
demolished, and those that remain are
greatly dilapidated. The place is no-
toriously unhealthy, and to sleep in it
generally entails an attack of fever.
The spot where the breaching battery
was placed is marked by 2 cannons,
fixed perpendicularly in the ground
opposite the W. angle, and close to
the river's edge, and the breach itself
is visible a short distance to the rt. of
the rd. to Maisilr. All along this part
where the stormers rushed to the
slaughter, there are now trees with
luxuriant foliage, and the grass grows
freshly under them. One would call
it the most quiet peaceful spot even
in this silent deserted city. Time has
added little to the injuries inflicted on
the walls by the English guns, and
Mr. Lewis Rice teU us (Gaz. vol. ii.
p. 268), that a great military authority
who lately visited the place, pro-
nounced it to be the 2nd strongest
fort in India. TipiSb's Palace is within
the walls. The greater part of it has
been converted into a warehouse for
sandalwood, and the rest has been
demolished. It was a very large

tbej- soon cooled, and were disposed in \ "bxnldm^ %\3cno\m.^^^\y3 ^.Tcuofisive wall

the manner moBtpromr to secure their \ oi B^xine w\A. toxjA, «a.^^^ ^1 ^\fi«asv

conquest. Many, however, left theii \ apv^aiaiicfe. "l^^a Y^^re.^ v^^ssNsaKox.'a.

Sect. II.

HoiUe 12. — Maimr City,

261

of Tipii formed a square, and the en-
trance was by a strong and narrow
passage, in which 4 tigers were chained.
Withm was the hall in which Tipil
wrote, and to it few except Mir SAdi^
were ever admitted. Behind the hall
was the bed-chamber. The door was
strongly secured on the inside, and a
close iron grating defended the win-
dows. Buchanan says that Tipii, lest
any person should fire upon him while
in bed, slept in a hammock suspended
from the roof by chains, in such a
situation as to be invisible from the
windows. " In the hammock were found
a sword and a pair of loaded pistols. "
The only other passage led into the
women's apartments, which contained
600 women, of whom 80 were wives
of the Sult^, and the rest attendants.

The Baryd Baulat Bdgh, a summer
palace of Tipil, is just outside the fort.
Its graceful proportions and the arab-
esque work in rich colours which
covers it, make it very attractive. The
walls are painted with representations
of the victories of Haidar, as that over
Colonel Baillie near Conjeveram in
1780. These had been defaced prior
to the siege, but Colonel Arthur Wel-
lesley, who made this garden. his resi-
dence, had them restored. They were
afterwards whitewashed and almost
obliterated, but Lord Dalhousie, having
visited the spot during his tour in
Maisiir, ordered them to be repainted
by a native artist who remembered
the originals. The perspective is very
bad and the general effect grotesque,
but the painter has succeeded in cari-
caturing the expression and attitude
of the British soldiers, and the French-
men are very life-like.

The Ldl Bdgh is a garden on the
other side of Ganj6m, which suburb
intervenes between it and the Daryd
Daulat. It contains the mausoleum
of Qaidar and Tlpii, a square building
surmounted by a dome, with minarets
at the angles, and surrounded by a
corridor which is supported by pillars
of black hornblende, a stone that is
remarkable for its beautiful polish.
The double doors inlaid with ivory
were given by Lord Dalhousie. Each
of the tombs is covered with a crimson

pall. The whole is kept up at Govern-
ment expense. The tablet on Tipiii's
tomb is in verse to this effect : The
light of Isl^m and the faith left the
world. Tlpii became a martyr for the
faith of Muhammad. The sword was
lost and the son of Gaidar fell a noble
martyr. The inscription gives the
date 1213 A.H. = 1799 A.D.

MaUuVf the capital of the State so
called, and the city where the MahA-
rdjah resides, is situated in lat. 12° 18',
long. 76° 42' at the N.W. base of the
Chdmimdi Hill, which is an isolated
peak rising to 3489 ft. above the sea.
Maisiir with its 3 suburbs covers an
area of 3 sq. m., and has 57,815 inhab.,
of whom 43,905 axe Hindiis, 990 Chris-
tians, 37 Pdrsis, and the rest Mus-
lims. The town is b. in a valley
formed by 2 ridges running N. and
S. There is a slight ascent on the N.
side. The streets are broad and regular,
and there are many substantial houses
2 or 3 storeys high, with terraced
roofs. Most of the houses, however,
are tUed. The town has a neat and
thriving look, and the sanitation has
been much attended to by the muni-
cipality. In the Fort, which occupies
the S. quarter, the appearance of the
houses is less promising, and the
streets are narrow and irregular. The
t. b. stands at the extreme N. verge of
the town. The jail is nearly opposite
it to the W., at 462 yds. distance. The*
cemetery is 700 yds. to the S. by E. of
the t. b., and the Residency is 900
yds. due S. of the cemetery. W. of
the Residency at 600 yds. distance is
the District Civil Office, and S. of that
again about 400 yds. is the High
School, and a little further to the S.
are St. Bartholomew's Church and the
Wesleyan Church. The Summer Palace
is about 600 yds. E. of the Fort, while
another palace is in the Fort itself, and
a 3rd somewhat to the W.

The Ibrt is quadrangular, 3 of the
sides being 450 yds. long, and the 4th
or S. side somewhat longer. There
are gates on the N. S. &W. Those
on the N, and S, ate ^totattft^ \s^
outwotka. YVas\J&m'^\jo^^'t%^<3n5aa»s^
the curtain a.t \si\.er?«!Ns. ^^ '^^ '^^^
I angle t\ieTe is ©i ea«fcm».V^, «\v^^ V«»*

262

JRotUe 12. — Bengalur to Shrh^angpatnam. Sect. II.

petted cavalier at the N.E., but the
defences are mean and ill-planned.
A ditch surrounds the fort, and a
sloping glacis covered with houses
abuts it on all sides but the E., where
the ditch is separated from the De-
varAj tank only by the high rd. to Nan-
jangud. The interior of the fort is
crowded with houses, chiefly occupied
by retainers of the palace. The
Mahdrdjah's Palace within the fort
faces due E., and is b. in the ultra-
Hindii style. There are a few paintings
by a European. The front is tawdry
and supported by 4 fantastically carved
wooden pillars. The Sejj6 or Dasara
hall is an open gallery where the R4jA
showed himself to the people seated
on his throne, on great occasions. The
throne is very remarkable. According
to one account it was presented to the
Ambassadors of Chikka Deva R4jd in
1699 (Wilks, voL i. p. 106) for their
prince. The palace legend at Maisiir
is that it was found buried at Penkonda
by the founders of the Vijayanagar
empire, Hakka or Harihara and Bukka,
who were told where it was by one
Vidydranya, an ascetic. The legend
goes on to say that it was the throne
of the Pdndus, when they reigned at
Hastindpura, whence Kampula Edjd
brought it, and buried it at Penkonda.
It is at all events certain that it was
used by Chikka Deva and his suc-
cessors up to the time erf Tlpil Sultan ;
that it was found in a lumber room
when Shrlrangpatnam was taken by
the British, and that it was employed
at the coronation of the Rdjd to whom
they conceded the government. It
was originally of figwood overlaid
with ivory, but after the restoration of
the Rdjd, the ivory waa plated with
gold and silver carved with Hindii
mythological figures, especially with
representations of the Simlui or lion,
whence the Skj*. word for a throne,
Simhdsan, is derived. The Rdjd affects
as his peculiar title Simhdsan'odhipati
"enthroned king." Another repre-
sentation is that of the Itamsa " swan,"
a mjrtbical biid, of which it is said
^^at any bead on which its shadow
^alls^ will wear a crown. For minor
ceremoniea the iUjA uses a second

throne called Bhadrdsana, "the aus-
picious seat." The principal gate of
the palace opens into a passage under
the Sejj6 leading into an open court.
At the further or W. side of this court
is the door leading to the women's
apartments, which occupy the W. part
of the palace. In the N. side are the
armouiy, library, and various offices.
On the S. side are the rooms occupied
by the late Mahdrdjah. Here is the
Amhk Vildsa, an upper room 65 ft. sq.
and 10 ft. high, with a raised ceiling
in the centre. Here H. M. received
his European visitors, and transacted
the business of the day. A wooden
railing separates the place where
H. M. sate from the rest of the room.
The hall is hung with portraits of
officers connected with Maisiir. The
floor is of dazzling white chunam, and
the doors are overlaid with ivory or
silver richly carved. The sleeping
apartments, which are small, open
upon the Ambd VilAsa, and just out-
side is the stall in which was kept the
cow H. M. worshipped ! The palace
has been almost all b. since 1800, but
is already in bad repair. Tipii de-
molished the old palace of the Rdjds,
but left one inner room with mud
walls of great thickness. This is
called the " Painted Hall," from the
coloured decoration of the ceiling, and
is said to have been the State reception
room. In front of the palace there is
an open space, but on all other sides
it is pressed upon by the huts of poor
people.

Opposite to the W. gate of the fort
is a handsome building called the
Mohan Mahal or " pleasure palace," b.
by the late Rajd as a place of amuse-
ment for European officers. The upper
storey is adorned with pictures in the
Indian style. E. of the town are the
houses of European residents. Here
is the Residency, b. by Colonel Wilks
at the beginning of this cent, in the
Doric style. Sir John Malcolm added
the back part, in which is one of the
largest rooms in S. India. As the
post of Resident has been abolished,
tlusWiiXiQim^Sa OQC.\v\i\ad by the Com-
Toiasionfit oi \3aa k^^Xai^T^TSLTyvvvskSs^.

Sect. It.

Moute 12. — Mauur CUy.

263

for some time occupied by the late
Duke of Wellingtx)n, then Colonel
Wellesley.

The founders of the present Maisilr
dynasty were 2 youths of the YAdava
tribe, named Vijaya and £q*i$hna, who
while in search of adventures halted
at Hadandru or Hada-n&du, 5 m. N.E.
of Nanjangiid. The Wodeyar or chief
of the place was of unsound mind, and
had wandered into the jungle, and
the PdlegAr of the adjoining village
of KarugaUi, a man of the Toregar
caste, demanded a daughter of the
Hadan^ru family, and the family in
their distress had given a reluctant
consent. The young Yddavas slew
the P^egdr, and the bride was given
to Vijaya, who thus became the chief
of Hadandru and KarugaUi, and these
2 villages formed the nucleus of the
Maisiir kingdom. This event took
place in the 14th or 15th cent. At the
beginning of the 16th cent, the site
of Maisilr was occupied by a village
called Puragere. The HadanAru chiefs
had gradually extended their rule so
as to acquire this place also, and when
Bettada Chdma Rdjd, who was one of
them, died, he gave Puragere to one of
his 3 sons, named Bol6 or " the bald."
Here in 1524 a fort was b. or repaired
and named Mahishiir (buffalo town)
from MahishAsur, the demon slain by
Kdll or Chdmundi. Until the begin-
ning of the 17th cent, the Maisiir
chiefs paid tribute to the Viceroy of
Shrirangpatnam, who was an officer
of the RAjd of Vijaya, but in 1610 they
conquered that city, and thencefor-
ward became poweiful. Tlpii tried
to obliterate all traces of the Hindii
rule, and razed the fort of Maisiir to
the ground, using the materials to
build another fort on an eminence 1
m. to the E., which he called Nazara-
bdd, some remains of which are still
to be seen. When Tipii fell, the stones
were brought back and the fort rebuilt
on its original site. Owing to the
presence of the Court, Maisiir grew as
Shrirangpatnam decreased. The RAjd
was divested of power in 1831, owing
to the disturbances occasioned by his
misrule, but he continued to reside in
the palace at Maisiir, and ith of the

revenue was assigned to him. He
died at Maisiir, aged 75, on the 27th
of March 1868, and his adopted son
Chdma R^jendra Wodeyar, t^en 4
years old, was proclaimed Mah&rdjah.
Ndnjangud.—While at Maisiir the
traveller may visit Nanjangiid, which
is only 12 m. to the S. It is the head-
quarters of the T'aluk of the same
name, and is a municipal town with
4754 inhab. It is said to have been
founded at the end of the 8th cent, by
Nayara Shekhara Hdyah, a king from
the N., who also b. Ratanpuri, now
Hedatale, 54 m. to the S. But that
which makes a visit to Nanjangiid de-
sirable is, that it possesses a temple 385
ft. long by 160 ft. broad, supported by
147 columns. It is one of the most
sacred in the Maisiir district, and en-
joys a Government grant of rs. 20,197.
There is a celebrated car-festival here
in March, which lasts 3 days, and is
resorted to by thousands from all parts
of S. India. Buchanan (vol. li. p.
147) mentions the bridge over the
Eabbani at this place, which he says
is looked upon by the natives as a
prodigy of grandeur, but in Europe
would be considered a disgrace to the
meanest architect, the arches being
only 5 ft. span, and the piers being 5 ft
tMck, and not presenting an angle to
the stream. The sides of the arches
have scarcely any curvature, and are
simply 2 planes meeting at an acute
angle. The bridge is, however, long
and wide, and a great convenience.
The same authority tells us that the
place is named from Shiva, and liie
name signifies " swallowing poison."
In fact, Na^jimdesh/mar is a Kanarese
name ^ of Shiva from nanju^ "poison,"
and Iskrvarj "god," alluding to the
story that Shiva swallowed the poison
produced from the churning of the
ocean.

kovie 13. — Maimr to Shravana Belagold, Sect. II.

ROUTE 13.

MAISUB TO BHBAVANA BELAGOLA.
57 M. 1 F. BY CABBIAQE OB PALKI.

Names of Stations.

^^
S^

M. P.

9 1
12
11

8 5
10 8

57 1

Remarks.

1. Shrirangpatnam

2. Chinkuraji*. . .
8. Attikuppe

4. Kikeri . . .

5. Channardyapatnam.

6. Shravaqa Belagola .

Total

3rd cl. b.
2nd cl. b. ,
3rd cl. b. '
1st cl. b.

At Chinkurali in 1771, the Mardthas
gained a great victory over Haidar
'All. This is perhaps referred to by
Grant Duff, vol. ii. p. 2 1 5. The Mar Athas
then plundered the temples at M6luk6t.
Chinkurali is the headquarters of a
hohli or subdivision of the Attikuppe
T*alu^, containing 66 villages and 9353
inhabitants.

AttiJmppe(jgroyQ of Metis glomerata)
is the headquarters of a T'sJul^ of the
same name, and has 1616 inhkb. At
Mkkeri good cloth is manufactured,

Cha/ima-rdya-patffam is the head-
quarters of a T'^uk of the same name,
and has 2676 inhab. It is in the Hdsan
District. It was originally called
Kolati!ir. Machala D^vi and Santala
D6vl, dancing girls, b. the large tank
on the N.E. In 1600 Lakshmappa
NAyak, chief of Narsipiir, took the
place from the Hebbar Puttagirija,
and ga'^e it to his son Channa Kdya,
called after Channa Edya swdmi, a
name of Vishnu. A temple was b. to
this deity, and the town was called
by its present name. A chief named
Dodda Basasaiya b. the fort, and it
was taken in 1633 by Chdma R&jd,
Wodeyar of Maisiiir. It suffered much
from the Mar^t^as, and Qaidar 'All
rebuilt it, and added a wet moat and
gateways with traverses.
Shravai^Belago\a» These words are
said by Buchanan (vol, iii. p. 410) to
mean ''Here is the white Solanum," and
-fle adds, " a species of that plant gro^a

in the neighbourhood very copiously."
Shravana, however, in Kanarese is a
word derived from Skp., that primarily
means "hearing," but is a term for a
Jain, and gola means '' a globe." It
is goli, not gola, that means the plant
Nyctanthes trwtis. Buchanan's ety-
mology is, therefore, evidently incor-
rect. More probably Belagola was
the name of the place, and Shravana
relates to the hearing the instructions
of Bhadra Bdhu, the Jain sage, who
died here in the 4th cent. B.C., and
was a Shnita kevala or immediate
" hearer " of the 6 disciples of Mah4-
vlra, founder of the Jain sect. The
chief attendant of this worthy is said
to have been the famous Emperor
Chandragupta, or Sandracottus, who
abdicated to live the life of a recluse
with Bhadra BAhu. These events are
confirmed by inscriptions on the rock
of very great antiquity. The grand-
son of Chandragupta is said to have
visited the spot with an army, and
from his camp arose the town of Shra-
vana Belgola or Belgola of the Shra-
vans= Jains. Near the town, which
has 1697 inhab., are 2 rocky hills :
Indra-heffa and Cliandragiri. On
Indra-betta is a colossal statue of
Gromata Edya, of which Buchanan has
given a drawing. The same authority
makes the height of the statue 70 ft.
3 in. It is nude and faces the N.
The face has the calm look usual in
Buddhist statues. The hair is curled
in short spiral ringlets all over the
head. The ears are long and large,
the shoulders very broad, the arms
hanging straight down with the thumbs
outwards, the waist small. From the
knees downwards the legs are unnatu-
rally short— the feet rest on a lotus.
Ant-hills are represented rising on
either side, with a creeping plant
springing from them wMch twines
round the thighs and arms, ending in
a tendril with bunches of fruit. If
we read the name of the place Bela
goli, it may be derived from this " white
creeper." These are intended to sym-
bolise the deep abstraction of the sage,
60 a\)aoi\)edYTLXciedita.tlQn^ that the ants
\)\ii\.d, and ^i)aa -^^.Tt^ c)Cvdb^ ^s^owsia^
bioi \nmo\.\c^d.

Sect II.

HoiUe IL-^Hdsafi — £ilur.

265

Though certainly 1000 years old,
and probably 2000, the stone looks as
fresh as if newly quarried. Within
the enclosure are 72 small statues,
of like appearance, in compartments.
An inscription on the front of the
colossus states that it was erected by
Chdmunda Riya, who is said to have
lived 60 B.C. The same inscription
states that the surrounding enclosures
were put up by GangA RAya. A priest
of Shravana Belagola was summoned in
788 AJ>. to a Court of Hemasihala at
Kdnclii. His name was Akalanka, and
he confuted the Buddhists in a public
disputation, and got them banished to
Ceylon. The place abounds with in-
scriptions, the most interesting of
which are cut in the face of the rock
at Indra-betta in ancient characters
1 ft. long. On Chandra-giri there are
15 Jain temples.

ROUTE 14.

MAISUB TO HALEBID. 109M. 4P. BY
CABBIAGE OB PALKI.

Names of Stations.

00 -:
M. F.

Remarks.

1. Shrirangpatnam .

9 1

2. Chinkiiraji '.

12 Srd cl. b.

3, Attikuppe. . .

11 2nd do.

4. Kikeri .

8 5 '3rd do.

5. Channar&yapatijam

6. DindiganhaUi * . .

10 3 1st do.

10 2 2nd do.

r. Hisan .

12 2 Ist do.

8. MadihaUi .

13 8

9. B^liir .

12 3

2nd do.

10. HaJeWd . . .

10 1

Total .

109 4

The route as far as Channar^yapat-
:pam has been already noticed,
MUan, the capital of the district of

the same name, is in lat. 13**, long. 76**
9'. It has a pop. of 6305 persons, of
whom 274 are tfains, and 237 Christians.
The town was originally built at the
adjacent village of Chennapatna,
founded in the 10th cent, by Bukkana
or Bukka N4yak, an officer of the
Chola king. He ruled for 43 years,
and his son Bdchi Ndyak 6 years.
Chennappa Ndyak, son of Biichi, suc-
ceeded him and ruled 45 years, and
his son Bilcha N4yak lived 60 years
and died without male issue. The
BallAla king then gave Chenna- *
patna to Sanj^va Kp^hnappa N^yak,
who on one occasion stalled a hare,
which ran into the town. This he
regarded as a bad omen, but HdaiU"
amma, "the smiling mother," appeared
to him and told him to build a fort on
the spot where the hare started. He
did so, and called it after the goddess
Hdsana, The present town dates
from the end of the 12th cent. It
was annexed to Maisi!ir in 1690 in the
reign of Chikka Deva RAjA Wadegar.

Bilur is in lat. 13*^ 10', long. 76** 55'
on the r. b. of the Yagache, 23 m.
N.W. of H&san. It is a municipal
town, and the head-quarters of the
T'aluk of the same name. There is a
pop. of 2989 persons. In the Purdnas
and old inscriptions it is called VelA
pura, and is styled the S. Ban^ras.
Here is the famous temple of Chenna
Eesava, erected and endowed by the
Hoysala king, Vishnu Vardhana, on
exchanging the Jain faith for that
of Vishnu in the beginning of the
12th cent. The carving (Mr. Lewis
Rice's Gaz. vol. ii. p. 315) with which
it is decorated rivals in design and
finish that of Halebid, and is the
work of the same artist, Jakan4-
chdri. The annual festival held for 6
days' in April is attended by 6000
people. The image of Chenna Eesava
is said to have been brought from the
Bdbd Budan hills, but that of his
goddess was left behind, which obliges
him to pay her a visit there at stated
intervals. At p. 395 of Fergusson's
" History of Architecture " willbe-fexiSB^
a plan oi t'iie \em.i^\^ \i«K., ^\M2a. V^
calls the Great Temi^^a «X. ^«SS\Sa. "Vs»

stands withia ^ \a^\i^«2!:V^\s2^^ ««t'

266

Boute 14, — Maimr to Halebid,

Sect II.

rounds a court, 440 ft by 360 ft. In
this court are, besides the Great
Temple, 4 or 5 smaller ones. On the
K. front are 2 fine Gopuras. The
Great Temple is 115 ft. long from E.
to W. It stands on a terrace 3 ft.
high, so that there is a raised mai'gin
all round it. " It consists," says Mr.
Fergusson, " of a very solid vimdnah,
with an anterala or porch ; and in front
of this a porch of the usual star-like form,
measuring 90 ft. across. The arrange-
ments of the pillars have much of that
• pleasing subordination and variety of
spacing which is found in those of the
Jains, but we miss here the octagonal
dome, which gives such poetry and
meaning to the aiTangements they
adopted. Instead of these we have
only an exaggerated compai*tment in
the centre, which fits nothing, and,
though it does give dignity to the
centre, it does it so clumsily as to be
almost oflEensive in an architectural
sense." The windows to the porch
are 28, and all different. Some are
pierced with star-shaped, conventional
patterns, and with foliaged patterns
between. Others are interspersed with
mythological figures, as the Vardha
avatdr. The base is very richly carved,
and is supported on carved elephants.
Mr. Fergusson says : " The amount of
labour which each facet of this porch
displays is such as never was bestowed
on any surface of equal extent in any
building in the world ; and though the
design is not of the highest order of
art, it is elegant and appropriate, and
never offends against good taste. The
sculptures of the base of the vimdnah
are as elaborate as those of the porch,
in some places more so ; and the mode
in which the under sides of the cor-
nices have been elaborated is such as
is only to be found in temples of this
class."

From a plan furnished by the pre-
sent Resident at Maisiir, Mr. Gordon,
the following details may be added.
The terrace is 4 ft. high. The breadth
of the base of the cupola is 61 ft., and
height to top of cupola is 91 ft. 3 in.
Height of base is 20 ft. The inner
walls are of brick in chunam with a
facing of carved atone.

Halehid, from the Kanarese words,
1ui\e^ " old," bidu, " ruins," is a village
ia the B^liir T'aluk, 10 m. E. of B^ltir,
with 1207 inhab. It marks the site of
Dorasamudra or DvArasamudra, the
old capital of the Hoysala BallAla
kings. It was founded early in the
12th cent., but was rebuilt in the
middle of the 13th by Vira Somesh-
wara, and some inscriptions represent
him to be the founder, though it is
known that some of his predecessors
reigned there. Attacked by leprosy,
he withdrew to the neighbouring hill
of Pushpagiri (Mountain of Flowers),
where he was instructed to erect
temples to Shiva to obtain a cure. It
is probable that thus the splendid
monuments which exist to this day at
Halebid were undertaken. The Muslim
general, KAfiir, took the city in 1310
and plundered it of immense wealth.
In 1326 another army of Muslims
carried off what remained, and totally
destroyed the city. The R4j4 then
removed to Tondaniir or Tonn\i*. The
most remarkable temples remaining
are the Hoysaleshwara and XaitahJiesh-
waj'a. The latter is the smaller but a
miracle of art. Unfortunately, a tree of
the Ficus indica species took root in
the vimdnaJt or tower over the sanctu-
ary, and dislodged the stones. Many of
the figures, thrust out of their places
in this manner, have been removed to
the Museum at Bengaliir. Mr. Fer-
gusson, p. 307, writes the name JKdit
Iswai'a, and says it is inexplicable.
There can, however, be no difficulty
about it. Kaitabha was a demon,
who, with his confederate, MMhu,
was about to demolish Brahma, when
Durga roused Vishnu from his slum-
bers, and he killed Kaitabha. Hence
Durga is called Kaitabha, and Vishnu
Kai^abheshivara, and so the name
should be written. At p. 398, Mr.
Fergusson has given a woodcut of this
temple as it was 20 years ago. It is
now fast going to ruin. It is star-
shaped, with 16 points, and had a
porch, now ruined and covered with
vegetation. It has a conical roof, and
iiom \>asfc \jo \«^ "is covered with

and ^i)a&SG «>Q ^Tt«iCi^'i^^%^<=>\.^as»^Tv^6^

Sect. II.

Route 14. — Hatebid^

267

to interfere with the outlines of the
building." It was, when intact, the
finest specimen of Indian art in exist-
ence. The Hoysaleshwara^ "Lord of
the Hoysalas," temple is much larger
than the Kaitabheshwara. At p. 400
of Mr. Fergusson's *' History of Archi-
tecture " vail be found a restored view
of it, and in the previous page a plan
and account of it. It stands (according
to this authority) on a terrace, 5 ft. 6 in.
in height, paved with large slabs. The
temple itself is 160 ft. from N. to S. by
122 ft. from E. to W., and beyond its
walls there is a clear margin of platform
all round of about 20 ft. The height
from the terrace to the cornice is 25 ft.
It is a double temple, one half being
sacred to Shiva, and the other to his
wife. Each half has a pavilion in front
containing the JBaswa or Nandi, a bull.
The larger of the two is 16 ft. long by
7 ft. broad and 10 ft. high, the animal
being represented lying down. It is
made of bala2)am or potstone impreg-
nated with hornblende, which is not
susceptible of polish. The smaller
one is of the hornblende used in Haidar
'Ali*s monuments, and contains small
irregular green shining veins and is
highly polished.

Some of the pillars in the inner
part of the temple are of black horn-
blende, and have a dazzling polish,
which, as Buchanan tells us (vol. iii.
p. 392), " reflect objects double, which
by the natives is looked upon as
miraculous." The same authority says,
" Its walls contain a very ample de-
lineation of Hindii mythology, which
in the representation of human or
animal forms, is as destitute of ele-
gance as usual ; but some of the foliage
possess great neatness, as may be seen
by a drawing made of pai't of one and
given in plate xxviii. fig. 83." It is to
be regretted that this writer gave so
little time and attention to the miracles
of art these temples have since, on
the best authority, been presumed to
be, for in his time they were in a far
more perfect state than they are now.
Including the detached pavilions the
dimensions of this temple are about
200 sq. ft. over all. They are built on
a fiieze of elephants which follows all

the windings of the place, to a length
of 710 ft. In aU there are about 2000
of these animals represented, and many ,
of them have riders. Next above these |
is a frieze of Shdrdulas* or * royal
tigers,' the emblems of the Hoysala
BallAlas who built the temple. " Then
comes a scroll of infinite beauty and
variety of design," then a frieze of
horsemen and then another scroll, and
then a relief of scenes from the RAmA-
yana representing the conquest of
Ceylon. This is 700 ft. long, and
therefore 160 ft. longer than the frieze
of the Parthenon. Then come a frieze
of beasts and one of birds, and a
cornice with a rail divided into panels,
each containing 2 figures. Above are
windows of pierced slabs, except in the
centre bow, which has instead a frieze
of gods and apsaras, 5 ft. 6 in. in
height. " Some of these," says Mr.
Fergusson, " are carved with a minute
elaboration of detail, which can only
be reproduced by photography, and
may probably be considered as one of
the most marvellous exhibitions of
human labour to be found even in the
patient East." He adds, "Here the
artistic combination of horizontal with
vertical lines, and the play of outline
and of light and shade, far surpass
anything in Gothic art. The efEects
are just what the mediaeval architects
were often aiming at, but which they
never attained so perfectly as was done
at Halebid." In speaking of the
friezes, Mr. Fergusson invites attention
to the fact that Sbe succession is always
the same, the elephants being the
lowest, next above them the SJidr-
dulas, then the horses, then the oxen
or sometimes conventional animals,
then birds. He says, " When we know
the cause of it (this succession), it
seems as if this curious selection and
succession might lead to some very
suggestive conclusion." He concludes
by placing the Halebid temple and
the Parthenon as the two extremes

* Not, I venture to think," the conventional ;
lion " as given by Mr. Fergusson. The lion j
is Simha, and the legend of the Hoysalas, in ^
explaiwing t\ie ^\.yavQ\o^ ^1 "Caa ^NscsMi., «%?- N

slew a W^t «Q.ei V^^ic^ ^^^^\R.^ "^5^^ f^^i^?.

268

Route 15. — Maisur to the Nllgiris,

Sect. II.

of architectural art, and says, "It
would be possible to arrange all
the buildings of the world between
these two extremes, as' they tended
toward the severe intellectual purity
of the one, or the playful exuberant
fancy of the other ; but perfection, if
it existed, would be somewhere near
the mean."

From a plan furnished to the author
by Mr. Gordon, Resident of Maisiir, it
appears that the Temple of Halebid is
from N. to S. 151 ft., and from B. to'W.
106 ft. The large bull is 50 ft. broad
and 66 ft. long, and the small bull is
27 ft. broad and 33 ft. long.

It only remains to add that Buchanan
(vol. iii. p. 389) mentions a temple
at Jamagullu, 10 m. from Halebid,
dedicated to Narasingha, and built
entirely of balapam or potstone. He
says, "It is highly ornamented after
the Hindii fashion, and on the outside
every part of its walls is covered with
small images in full rilievo. This
temple is said to have been built by
Sholun Hdya, and the architect that
he employed was Jakan^chdri." Now
Jakanachiri was the architect and
sculptor of the B^lilr and Hajebid tem-

Eles, and the greatest artist that S. India
as ever produced. It seems strange,
therefore, that there is no account of
this temple at Jamagullu besides the
brief notice in Buchanan, and even
Mr. L. Rice*s " Gazetteer of Maisiir "
makes no mention of the place.

ROUTE 15.

MAISUE TO THE KILamiS.
BY pAlKI.

77m. 7f.

Names of Stations.

Miles

&F8.

Remabks.

M. P.

1. SindhaUi . . .

18 3 3rd cl. b.

2. Qundaip^t .

17 6 2nd do.

3. Bandipar . . .

4. TippukA«Ju .

11 3 2nd do.

7 3 Do.

5. Kalhatti . . .

15 IDo.

6. Utakainand .

Total . . .

7 7 Do.

77 7

The usual route to the Nilgiris is now
from Koimbatiir, but this route is
given for travellers who may desire to
ascend direct from Maisiir. It must
be, however, observed that the Slgiir
Ghat and the jungle from Bandipiir
are exceedingly malarious, and that if
by any accident the traveller should
be obliged by the break down of his i
bearers or other cause to pass the night
there, he will almost certainly contract
a fever of the most malignant descrip-
tion. The death of Lord Hastings
from fever contracted on this journey,
which has been already referred to
under Tanjiir, may serve as a warning.
At Sindhalli water is scarce. The
long first stage may be broken at
Nanjangild, a large town 1 m. 6 f.
from the Kabbani r., which is reached
at 12 m. 3 f . from Maisiir S. Gate.
Gundalp^t is the head-quarters of a
T'aiuk, and a municipal town with
1000 inhabitants. It was anciently
called Vijayapura, and received its
present name from Chikka Deva RAj4
in 1674, who built and richly endowed
a handsome pagoda over his father's
tomb, then dedicating it to Aparamita
Paravdsa Decay " the god of perpetual
exile." This temple flourished till the
time of Tlpii, who withdrew the allow-
ance. The town was depopulated by
fever. It stands on the 1. b. of the
GtxmAa^ x. "Soxm.^ Bwadii^iir is a state
ioxes^. \^ w\. "ni. m ^-il^kdX.^ ^sv^ ^\i!ks3QL

Sect. 11.

Routes 16, 17. — Hunmr.

269

forest which begins at Fraserp^t
bridge 10 m. N.W. of Periyapatna,
and extends continuously for 80 m. to
a point a few m. S.E. of Bandipilr. A
furlong beyond TippukMu you cross
by a bridge the Maydr r., and just
before reaching Kafiiatti the Sigiir
Ghdt commences. Wild elephants are
apt to be troublesome hereabouts, and
mounted officers have escaped with
difficulty at times. Persons have been
killed, but not Europeans. The Gh4t
itself is free from jungle, and is prac-
ticable for wheeled carriages.

ROUTE 16.

BENGALUBTO G^BUSAPPB (GEESEPPA)
FALLS. 237 M. 4 K.

Karnes of
Stations.

1. Nellamanga-
1am .

2. Sompur . .

3. Tunikiir

4. Nittiir . .

5. KibhenhaUi

6. Tiptiir .

7. Arsikere . .

8. B&ndwar

9. Kadiir . .

10. Siddanahalli
or Lodekatta

11. Torikere .

12. Benkipur

13. Shimoga .

14. Eumsi.

15. Anantapur

16. Sdgar .

17. Talgiippa

18. O^msappe

Falls.

Total

M. F.

17 2

13 6
12 3
18 1
15 5

14 5

Remarks.

13 1
10 2

15
15

17 3

10
9

1st cl. h. and t s. At
11 m. 7 fs. X r. Ar-
k^batu by 5-arched
bridge.

2nd cl. b. and t s.

1st cl. do.

2nd cl. do.

2nd cL do., also one
for natives.

Ist cl. do.

2nd cl. do.

1st cL do. and t. s.

2nd cL do. and t. s.

3rd cl. do.

2nd cl. do. and t s.

X Kushi r.
2nd cl. do. X Bhadra

r. in baskets.
1st cl. do. and t. s. X

Tunga r., 300 yds.

broad, in baskets.
2nd cl. do.
2nd cl. do. and t s.

Thick jungle here

and there.
1st cl. do. and t. s.

Thick jungle.
2nd cL do.
2nd cl. do. on each

side of the Falls.

237

For the sportsman^ who has abun-
dant leisure and can afford to take his
2 horses and an experienced Shikdri
with him, and a sufficient supply of
eatables and drinkables to render him
tolerably independent, as also a cook,
a journey along this route might be
most delightful. Tigers and bison are
to be met with in many parts, particu-
larly at and after Sdgar. To the ordi-
nary traveller seeking comfort it will
be better to visit the Falls from
Hondwar, arriving there by sea.

ROUTE 17.

BENGALUB TO KUBG. 158 M. 1 F.
BY CABBIAGE, PALKI, OB ON HOBSE-
BACK.

For this Route as far as Haisiir, 85 m., see

Route 12.

Names of

Remarks.

Stations.

M. F.

MaisiIu to

10. Yelwal

2nd cl. b. and t. s. A
small town of 400
houses with a large
tank.

11. Belikere. .

3rd cl. do. A town <^
550 houses.

12. Hunsiir

11 6

1st cl. do.

13. Periyapat-

13 5

2nd cl. do. and t s.

nam
14. l^iraserp^t .

13 3

Laiigetown.
2nd cL do.

15. Somatikapal

10 2

2nd c . do.

16. Merkird

8 4
73 1

1st cl. do.

Bengaliirto
MaBiir

Grand Total

158 1

Ifunsur in lat. 12' 19', long. 76' 2(y
on the r. b. of the Lakshmantirtha r.
a tributary of the K4v6ri, which rises
in the Ghd^s which form the S. fron-
tier of Kiirg, is the lie-adlojo^Nde^ ^
the Penyapft^i>AT«2L\J5L«cA ^wtcssk^s^-
pal tOYm,^tYi. 4,^^^ \a!MJfe.,^^-«^^
2 are 3auia an^ ^^ <3Kn3BiawBa* ^^^

270

Route 17. — Beiigalur to Kurg,

Sect. II.

trunk road fr»m Shrirangpatnam
branches off 2 m. W. of Hunsiir to
Merkdrd and Kananiir. It is the place
where the finest oxen in S. India, or,
perhaps, in the world, called the Am-
pt Mahal, or "Ambrosial Palace"
breed are kept and bred by Govern-
ment. These cattle were most care-
fully preserved by Tlpii, and after the
storm of Shrirangpatnam, fell into the
hands of the British, who placed them
under the care of the Government of
Maisiir ; but in 1813 the Commissariat
Department at Madras took charge of
them. In 1860 Sir C. Trevelyan
ordered all the herds to be sold, but
on reconsideration the Madras Govern-
ment reversed this step ; and in 1865
ordered that 100 bulls and 4,000 cows
should be re-purchased, which was
done with much difficulty, though
13,000 had been sold Iq 1860. The
Kdvals or grazing grounds for these
magnificent oxen are scattered over
the Province of Maisiir, but the largest
are at Siile-kere tank, in the Shimoga
District, and at Hanagod near Hunsilr.
The cattle are driven from one to
another as occasion requires. The
great speed of these cattle is equalled by
4 their endurance. " With them Haidar
^ marched 100 m. in 2J days to the
' relief of Chillambram, and with them
' both Haidar and Tlpii were generally
enabled to draw off their guns in the
face of an enemy. That the breed
had not deteriorated was shown in the
Afghdn war, when they proved their
superiority to all the other cattle em-
ployed, often remaining for upwards
of 16 hours in the yoke." One of their
chief characteristics is the soundness
and strength of their feet. They are
always kept in the open air, and are
not housed at night like other breeds.
During the wet weather they are all
driven to the Hunsiir jungles, on the
borders of Kiirg. They are not worked
till 6 years old. The breed is not pro-
lific. The bulls of an iron-grey or
slate colour are preferred for breed-
ing. The cows are generally white or
iron-grey (see Eice's Gaz. vol. ii. p.
^04J. Up to 1864 the Madras Govem-
ment maintained here a manufactory
of blanketB, a tannery, and a timbeT

yard. An Indian gentleman who
bought up the Government stock at
that time is allowed to use the tannery
and adjoining premises free of rent,
and he continues to manufacture boots,
knapsacks, and pouches. Country
carts also are made here in such num-
bers that the place has been nick-
named Gddipdlya, " Cart-town.'*

Perlyapatnam, in lat. 12° 21' and
long. 76° 9', was formerly the head-
quarters of the T'aluk of the same
name. It now contains 1821 inhab.
of whom 203 are Muhammadans, and
the rest Hindiis. Buchanan (vol. ii.
p. 93) calls the to^m Pnya-pattana
" chosen city," but in Mr. Rice's Gazet-
teer the word is written Periyapatna,
which means " large town." It is said
to have been visited in the mytho-
logical ages by Agastya the first
Br Ahman teacher who crossed the Vin-
dhya mountains. Its ancient name
was Singapatna, " lion-town," and
Karikala Chola BAjd is said to have
b. a temple here to Mallikdrjuneshwara,
and to have constructed a tank. At
the end of the 16th cent, it belonged
to Jagat Deva Edyal of Channapatna.
In 1659 Nanjanda Arasu of NanjarKj-
patna, now called Fraserp6t, passing
that way to a marriage at Hanagod, ,
erected .a mud fort at the place, owing, j
it is said, to a hare biting his horse's
heels, which made him think it was
a soil for brave men. His son, Vlra i
Rajarasa, was besieged in the fort for *
a year by the army of Maisiir under
Kanthirava Narasa Rdj Wodeydr. On
the storming of the fort Vira put all
his family^ to death, and died sword
in hand fighting gallantly. Periya
Wodeyarwas appointed by the Maisiir
RAjd to govern the place, and he re-
built the fort of stone and called
it after his own name Periyapatna.
Under Tipii the Rdjd of Kiirg, Vlra
Rdja was imprisoned in the fort for
4 years. On the approach of General
Abercromby's army the houses were
destroyed and the fort ruined, and
Buchanan says : "In the inner fort
there are no inhab., and tigers have
takeiL eoiVift "^oseessiaQ. of its ruins.
BaivdcA 'wood., Sttutttl'um aXb\im,^t«^^a»

Sect. II.

BoiUe 17. — Fraserpk — MerhdrcL

271

to be infested with elephants, that did
much misehief .

Fraserpet. — Just before reaching this
Stat, the Kdv6ri a furlong wide is
crossed by a bridge. Kiirg then com-
mences. After Fraserp^t the road lies
through a thick bambii jungle in which
are tigers and elephants, and the large
serpent called Python. Buchanan,
however, walked in the forest for 3
days without seeing a wild beast or
snake. Haidar 'AU called Fraserp6t
Khvshh&l vulgar y " glad town." He
was then invading Kiirg, and the news
of the birth of his son Tlpii there
reached him, and he so named it in
honour of the event. It has its present
name from Lt.-Gen. Fraser, who
was the first Commissioner appointed
after the conquest of Kiirg by the
British, The very fine bridge of 7
arches was constructed under the
superintendence and from the design
of Major Green of the Engineers. Less
rain falls here than at Merkdrd, and
during the monsoon the European
officers with their families reside at
Fraserp6t.

MerkdrcLy prop. Maddikei'ey is the
capital of Kiirg, and a military can-
tonment. The fort was b. by Haidar
in a disadvantageous position, being
commanded by hills on all sides. • In
the Kdji's time it contained his palace,
arsenal, and a pagoda. It is now used
as public quarters for the officers of
the corps that garrison Mercara. The
views around are lovely. The elevation
is 4600 ft., and it is, therefore, 1300 ft.
above Fraserp^t. Kiirg is bounded
on the N. and E. by Maisiir, on the
S. by Wyndd, on the W. by S. Kanara.
The country is a succession of moun-
tains divided by narrow valleys. The
hills are clothed with forest trees, with
here and there expanses of grass ; the
valleys are richly cultivated with rice,
areca trees, plantains, orange, lime,
and citron trees, and Indian vegetables.
Wild beasts are common, but the tiger
is not so dangerous as in the plains,
as he obtains ample supplies of food
in the deer and elk, wMch are very
numerous. Bears are rare but very
Gerce and destructive. The wild dog
hunts jn packs, and is rery formidable.

A curious feature of the country is
that it is everywhere intersected with
breastworks, with ditches 10 or 12 ft.
deep, and from 10 to 15 ft. wide. The
climate is pleasant and beautiful, the
temperature varying from 60** to 74°.
The people are a handsome, athletic
race ; fond of hunting, and generally
armed with the dad or Kiirg knife, which
resembles that used in Nlp&l, and has
a curved, very broad and heavy blade,
with which they have occasionally
killed even tigers. The Kdv6ri, one
of the greatest of Indian rivers, rises in
the S. of Kurg. The area of Kiirg is
1420 sq. m. The pop. is about 90,000.
Of the ancient history of the country
little is known. It was invaded both
by Haidar and Tlpii, and to a certain
extent subjugated by the latter. Haidar
entered Kiirg in Nov. 1773 (WUks,
vol. ii. p. 158), and surrounded a great
body of the inhab. on a wooded hill.
He then proclaimed a reward of rs.5
for every head brought to him. It
does not appear that the unfortunate
people, who were taken by surprise,
made any resistance, and 700 heads
were in a very short time deposited
at Haidar's feet. Then a soldier
brought 2 heads with remarkably
handsome features, and Haidar for
the first and only time in his life
showed something like pity, and asking
the soldier whether he felt no com-
punction at cutting off such beautiful
heads, ordered the butchery to cease.
The conquest seemed easily effected.
The Rdj^, whose name Wilks writes
Divara, fled, but was taken and
carried to Shrlrangpatnam, whence he
was sent to the Fort of Kadiir, where
he died a prisoner. In 1782, a rebellion
broke out in Kiirg, and Gaidar sent
one of his Chelds or favourite slaves
named Wafaddr to suppress it. Im-
mediately after Haidar's death, which
took place on the 7th of December,
1782, Tlpii, after he had joined his
main army, detached Lutf *Ali Beg
with a light corps of cavalry by the
shortest route, to supersede Wafaddr
at Kiirg. Wafaddr had been so fax
successful aa to ca^\\vx^ 'Cafcl'KCKiL:^ <:Jt
the Eib^6. xeceuW-j ^•^i^^-asfc^, «ssvcfB%
whom T^as ayovxt^i «J£Qi^ \^:. ?&^fcT^«s^^

272

Rovie 17. — Bengalur to Kurg,

Sect. II.

Rdj4, who wrote a history of Kiirg,
as noticed by Wilks in his Preface,
p. 19 ; but he had failed to pacify the
country. But Tlpii in 1784, invaded
Kiirg with his whole army, and the
people submitted to him. Ut6 NAyak,
the head of the rebels, escaped and
died at Telicherri, and Tlpii then
assembled the inhab. and harangued
them as follows : " If 6 brothers dwell
together in one house (Wilks, vol. ii.,
p. 532), and the eldest marries, his
wife becomes equally the wife of the
other 5, and the intercourse is con-
sidered as a national rite. Not a man
in the country knows his father, and
the ascendency of women and bastardy
of children is your common attribute.
From the period of my father's conquest
you have rebelled 7 times, and caused
the death of thousands of our troops.
I forgive you once more, but if rebel-
lion be ever repeated, I have made a
vow to honor every man in the coun-
try with I&14m. I will make them
aliens to their home, and establish
them in a distant land, and thus at
once extinguish rebellion and plurality
of husbands, and initiate them in the
more honourable practices of Isl4m."
ZainuTdbldln M^davl was left as
Faujddr of Kiirg, and excited a revolt
by carrying off the sister of one
Mammdti. Tipii hereupon sent a
brigade under a person of the same
name as the Faujddr, but called
Shushtarl, from his place of birth,
who made no progress in reducing the
rebels. On this Tipii in October, 1785,
entered Kiirg vrith his army in 2
columns, and burned up the cultiva-
tion. He then formed a circle of
troops round the inhab., and captured
70,000 of them, male and female. He
then sent them to Shrirangpatnam,
where they were all made Muhamma-
dans. The slaves among them were
then selected and sent with new settlers
to cultivate the country. Meantime,
Tlpii had removed the family of the
Rdji of Kiirg from Kadiir to Periya-
pa^nam. Li 1788, the youth who has
been already nlentioned as afterwards
becoming Rdjd, escaped. He found
a few natives of Kiirg remaining in
tbe country living in the woods, aad

hunted by the new settlers. He put
himself at their head, " and with the
pretensions of a hero led the life of a
chief of banditti." Wilks gives a
romantic story of the way in which he
obtained Wyndd from the EAji of
Kot Ang4rl, who having by friendly
messages enticed him to his castle at
Pdll, extorted from him a grant of
some districts on the ground that his
grandfather had slain one of the R^j4
of AngAri's ancestors. The Kiirg Bd]4
signed the grant, but shortly after-
wards surrounded PAll with 600 men,
and demanded satisfaction for the
death of 2 Kiirg princes slain in Wynid.
The Angdrl KAj4 had to cancel the
grant he had obtained of the Kiirg
districts, and also to give up Wyndd.
The RAjd of Kiirg was now joined by
so many adherents, that he was able
to drive out the new settlers, but he
made a distinction between Tlpii's own
men, whom he slew without mercy,
and the settlers brought by force from
Adoni. The latter he assisted to re-
turn to their own country. He then
defeated a detachment of Tlpii's army
which was marching into Malabdr,
with the loss of 1200 men. In 1789,
Tipii, who was going to Malabdr, sent
a division of his army into Kiirg under
Burhdnu*d din torevictual 4 posts there
still maintained by Tlpii. The Kiirg
Edj4 stormed 2 of these posts, and
inflicted great loss upon Burh4nu'd
din, before that officer could repro-
vision the other 2. Soon after the
RAj4 stormed 1 of these 2, though
it mounted 7 guns. Thus Merk^
alone was left to Tlpii. The Angdrf
Rdjd now took advantage of the
struggle in which the Kiirg RAj4 was
engaged to attack his family in the
woods, and killed 2 of his wives, a
nephew, and others, plundering the
camp of all its valuables. But just
then, the Hdjd sent a confidebtial
person to Telicherri to make some
purchases, and this officer concluded
an agreement there with the chief of
the English establishment. The result
was mutual co-operation in the struggle
'm\k"5slL%afi»tct. " "ENreiY promise of this

Sect. II.

Houte n.^^Merkdrd.

273

To an application for aid in gun bul-
lets, he correctly replied, that those
of Kilrg were unfit for military pur-
l^oses, but he immediately made a
most hazardous irruption into Maisiir,
and carried off and sent to the English
a supply of the best of the Sultdn's
stock, and repeated the enterprise on
every favourable opportunity. In
provisions, intelligence, and aid of
every kind he anticipated the wishes
of his friends, and riveted their ad-
miration by his frank and romantic
gallantry. The word " romantic " is well
selected, for Indian history can show
no more extraordinaiy act of romantic
generosity thaa the one with which
the Rdjd of Kiirg completed the de-
liverance of his country. When Gen.
Abercromby commenced his march
from the coast towards Seringapatam
in February, 1791, Merkard had long
been invested by the Kiirg troops, and
the RdjA had reported that in a few
days more it must surrender. However
a division of Tipii's army attempted
to relieve the place, and to escort to it
a convoy of provisions. The RAjd
engaged this division, and after a
severe action in which it suffered great
loss, surrounded it in such a way that
it could not escape. " While General
Abercromby was in hourly expectation
of hearing that it had surrendered, the
Eajd announced that though it was
completely at his mercy, he had allowed
the convoy to enter Merkdrd, and the
escort to return in safety. Such a fact
would in ordin|iry cases be considered
direct treachery. The Bdjd's state-
ment, however, and his singular cha-
racter, now understood, removed every
shadow of suspicion from the mind of
Abercromby."

The Rdjd explained that during
his confinement at Periyapa^nam, the
officer commanding had been induced
to allow of his wallang out occasionally
on parole to take the diversion of hunt-
ing in the forests. In one of these
excursions he was benighted near a
Maisilrean post within the frontiers of
Kilrg, and the commandant Kddir
Khan Kheshjl, invited him to his house,
and entertained him with hospitality
and kindness until the morning. This

was the officer who now commanded
the escort, and this was all the obliga-
tion which the RAjd acknowledged in
his letter, but there was another matter
of far greater importance to which
oriental delicacy forbade reference.
When Tipii selected 2 of the RAjA's
sisters for introduction into his l>arim,
Kddir Khdn, who was a favourite with
the Sultdn, obtained leave to receive
the 3rd sister, whom Tlpd cared not to
appropriate. When she was sent to
Kddir's house, that generous man pro-
vided a woman of her own caste to
attend her, lodged her in a separate
apartment, where he never approached
her, and availed himself of the first
opportunity to send her to the Rdjd
her brother. After the battle which
has been mentioned, in which Kddir
lost more than 700 men, the Ktig
warriors prepared to fall upon him at
dawn of day with the national weapon,
the heavy knife, which resembles that
of the Nlpdlese. The Rdjd, however,
caused it to be proclaimed that he
desired to spare Kddir's life in con-
sideration of the obligation he owed
him. A confer^ice then took place, in
which Kddir pleaded that if he ac-
cepted safety for himself, his family
would be put to death by Tlpii, and
that if he went back to Shrirangpatnam
without effecting the service for which
he had been detached, he would in-
fallibly be executed by the tyrant.
The Rdjd, with a prodigality of
romance, exceeding anything related
of Western chivalry, not only allowed
the convoy to enter the place, and the
escort to return, but at the instance of
Kddir, extended his courtesv to the
commandant of the foit of Merkdrd,
who must have surrendered in a few
days. It was agreed that he should
eat his provisions as fast as he could
without exciting suspicion, and then
be allowed to capitulate on condition
of a safe conduct to Shrlrangpa^i^iam.
The Rdjd not only declined General
Abercromby's assistance to reduce the
fort, but suppHed the garrison with
carriage, and presented them ow t\Na.vE.
departvxT^ m^;)a. ^^ X^^^x-aii. ^<3«»iasssv.
Tbe vraWa ^et^ ^«Q^ ^«l^^ ^a *^^

274

Houte 18. — Maisur to Wyndd,

Sect 11

himself and his people to the safe-
guard of their woods and their courage.
After the capture of Shrirangpatnam
in 1799, the RdjA, whose independence
had been secured by the Treaty of
1792, invited his friend KAdir Khan to
Kiirg, and received him as a brother.
The RAj4 presented him with a
large estate stocked with cattle and
provided with labourers, and all things
necessary for cultivating the land.
On this estate Kddir Khdn resided in
great affluence until his death in 1806.
Should the traveller desire to see
the gold mines of Wyndd and the
scenery of that beautiful T'aluk, he
may go from Maisiir by Rte. 18 which
follows. Wyndd is a T'aluk of the
Malabdr CoUectorate, containing 1188
sq. m., and a pop. of 125,738 persons,
of whom 2149 are Christians, It is the
only district of Malabdr where themales
are greatly in excess of the females,
there being 76,228 men, to 49,710
women. Excluding Wyndd from the
reckoning, there are in Malabdr 101*7
women to 100 men. The remarkable
thing is that the pop. of Wyndd in-
creased between 1866-67 and 1871, no
less than 122*5 per cent., and that is,
no doubt, owing to the mining opera-
tions, which have brought to the T'aluk
a great number of labourers. Wyndd
h^ Kiirg to the N.,- Malabdr to the
W. and S., and Maisiir and the Nil-
giris to the E. and S.E. It is a lovely
country of hill and forest and rushing
streams, with rich coffee plantations.
The latest report says, " Many of the
planters now enjoy perfect health
with their families, and immunity
from fever." The capital town is
Matumtawddi, or according to the
vulgar pronunciation Manantoddy,
and it is the stat. for a small detach-
ment of troops.

ROUTE 18.

MAISUE TO MANANTAWADI AND
WYNAD. 67 M. 3 P. BY PALO.

Names of
Stations.

1. Chatten-

halli

• •

2. Eargolah.

3. Antar-

santi.

4. Kakan-

kota.

5. Bawalli

6. Mananta-
wadi.

Total .

CO •

M.F.

10 7

11 2

13 4

13 2

8 2

10 2

67 3

Remarks.

2nd cl. b. Very small vil-
lage. Rough stony road,
and water not good.

At 6 m. 3 f. traveller may
halt at Hampapur, where
there is a 2nd cl. b. Ear-
golah is on the L b. of
the Kabbani r. the water
of which is plentiful and
good.

2nd cl. b. A mere hamlet,
and water bad. Thick
jungle. X Kabbani ^way.

2nd cL b. 1 house and shop.
Road very bad, and jun-
gly country.

3rd cl. b. This is a feverish
spot, aiid a night should ;
Twt be passed here. A mere |
hamlet. Road bad, witli j
continual ascents and '
descents through thick'
bambii jungle where wild
beasts harbour.

Ist cl. b. and t. s. Country
hilly and covered with
thick bambti jungle.

The gold mines are situated at
Devdla, a town 27§ m. S. of Mananta-
wddi, and .S§ m. S. by E. of Nellialem,
to which the traveller may ride on
horseback, having his Juggage carried
on bullocks. Should he decide to go
on to the sea-coast, the rd. through
Dindumalei 5 m. 1 f.; Periya 9 m. 3 f.;
Neduburdnel416 7 m. ; Kanot 8 m.
4 f . ; Kotrangddi 9 m. ; Kananiir
(Cannanore) 14 m. will take him
there from Manantawddi, through a
thick jungle. The total distance is
53 m. At or near Devdla are the
following mines : 1. The Alpha Skull
Reef, where there are both open and
underground workings J m. S. 2. The
WynM Prospecting Company's Reef
J m. to the B. 3. The Monarch Keef,
"wkeie \Xiet^ «c^ «i.iacient workings by

Sect. 11.

Eoute 18. — Gold Mines at Devoid,

275

workings by the natives. 5. Hamlin's
Reef, where are underground work-
ings by natives. 6. The Bear Reef,
where there are extensive ancient
underground workings. 7. The Ku-
rambar Reef. 8. The Etakal and
Cavern Reefs. 9. The Hamsluck Reef.
10. The Nandhatti on the outcrop of
vein. On the rd. to DevAla from Guda-
liir, which is 7^ m. to the E. and the
E. boundary of the Ochterlony estate,
several reefs may be noticed on hills
beside the rd. 11. The Richmond es-
tate, 2\ m. N.W. of Devdla, where are
2 strong reefs with old workings and
washings on an enormous scale by
sluices. 12. At 3 m. from Richmond
there is a reef with the remains of old
workings, and many shafts from 70 to
100 ft. deep, made by the natives.
13. The reefs between Devdla and
Needle Rock. 14. The Needle Rock
Reefs, 2i m. N. of Devdla. 15. The
Sipalli Rock Reef, where there is an
old cement bed.

The hills of this auriferous country
are a continuation of the Nllgiri moun-
tains, of which the highest peak Dodda-
bett is 8600 ft. high. Nllgiri peak is
9 m. to the S.E. The hills belong to
the Palaeozoic period and Silurian
formation. The peaks at Utakamand,
a central point of the Nllgiris, are
hard, dense, dark, crystalline rocks of
the metamorphic series of granite.
Syenite also is present, and is of a
lighter colour, red or brown, and
softer, impregnated with black mag-
netic oxide of iron, which looks like
black sand. As the crystalline rocks
descend they change to gneiss of a
light grey or pinkish, and to hard
fissile greenstone, chlorite, and diorite,
with talcose schists, and slaty decom-
posed argillaceous rocks. Dark horn-
blendic granite is also present.

The whole country is ramified with
bold quartz veins, being true reefs,
the general run of which is N. by W.
to S. by E. The reef is invariably to
the E., and is horizontal when out-
cropping, and then from 20° to 30*.
The reefs are from 15 ft. to 20 and 30
ft. thick, and are white, crystalline,
compact quartz, identical with reef
quartz in Hussda, AnstraJisb, California,

and Nevada. The quartz is highly
ferruginous with sesquioxide of iron,
and pyrites and pyrolurite changing
to decomposed granitic and talcose or
micaceous schists. The highest and
boldest reefs have not been touched by
Indian miners, probably on account
of their hardness. The ancient miners
made 3 shafts in a triangular form,
and lighted fires in 2 of ttiem to cal-
cine ajid break up the rocks, and by
the 3rd, which also gave the draught
of air necessary for the fires, they
ascended until the shafts in which the
fires were had cooled. There can be no
doubt that immense masses of gold have
been taken up in preceding centuries
by these miners, and with the exception
of the Venetian sequins, and a small
quantity of gold received from Aus-
tralia, all the gold in India has been
got from these mines. The learned Dr.
Bumell in his printed note on the
great temple at Tanjiir says : " The
full importance in Indian history of
Vira Chela's reign is only to be
gathered from this inscription, but it
contains other information also of
great value. It proves, e.g.y that in
the 11th cent, gold was tiie most
common precious metal in India, and
stupendous quantities of it are men-
tioned here ; silver, on the other hand,
is little mentioned, and it thus appears
that the present state of things, which
is exactly the reverse, was only brought
about by the Portuguese in the 16th
cent.'*

'^ ^

£ouie 19. — Madras to Koimhaf&r.

SecilL

, Koimhatiir. Letters (or

A branch rly. leaws Pothaniir for
the NUgiris. Koiiitbat&T in lat. 10° 59'
41", long. 76° 69" 46",atandB in a plain
HeO ft, above the level of the sea.
It is the capital of a collectj>rate with
an area of 7432 sq, m., and a pop. of
1,763,274 perHona, of whom 97-3 per
cent, are Hindile, 12,067 Christians,
Jaina 66, other sects 44, and the rest
Mufllims. Females are 1'5 per cent.
in excess of males. There are 10
T'alnfes in tlie collectorate, viz., Koim-
batilr, Satjamangalam, Kclligal, Po-
Idchi, Perajidur^, Bhaw^ni, FeJladam,
DArapuram, Karilr, and Udamalpe^.
Eoimbatilr ia a mmiicipol town with
B pop. of 35,310. TamU is the chief
language spoken, but Kanareac pve-
»ai6 over the whole of the Kolligal\iiioiA\iB, ^^-^^^
T'alak, and in some villages of tlie\'«\:ien\iecan

Bhaw^nl and Sat^amangalam T'alnVe.
Education is in e, deplorably low state
among.s-t the Hindila, of whom only
3'6 are able to read and write, and d
the 888,299 females only 227 I

The sights of Koimbatiir will not
occupy more than a day. There is
first tYiS central jail, wMch is 1 m.
N.W. of the rly. stat. It is extremely
well managed by the present snperin-
tendent, Mr. Grimes, of the Uncove-
nanted Service. On the 2nd of April,
1878, there were 1297 prisoners, of
whom 36 were females, cmefly of the
lowest castes, and 1 boys. The females
are not taught, and are punished by
solitary confinement. There were 3o
Burmese prisoners on April 2nd, and
all of these, hut 1, were under seatence
of imprisonment for life, and the 35th
was for 10 years. There were also
6 Chinese, one of whom was imprisoned
for shootii^ a catechist at Singapore,
There are only 20 solitaiy cells of
masonry, and several made of bars
like cages, but very lofty, and closed
with a single bar which is let down
and acts like a parallel ruler. In the
wards generally the men sleep 4 in a
cell. The boys are tanght Tamil, and
ate punished by Qogglng, aa are the
men. The superintendent carries a
weighty stick, as he has been several
times ulfacked, and was once nearly
stabbed by n Chinese, whose arm he
disabled in parrying the blow. The
prison is on the radiating principle
with a central tower, whence thete is
of the Nllgiris to Hie K.,
and of the Antmalei hills and town
of Koimbatiir to the S. There is a
^admill with 6 divisions, in each of
which S men can work, and 15 mea
crank which helps
the "tieadmill. Every prisoner most
work jth of his time witfiout remission,
when he can begin to earn marks. If
his conduct be good, he gets into the
3rd class, where he can earn { mark
day, and Obtain the remis-
snth's imprisonment. He
II in this class 6 months,
when he can get into the 2nd class, in
w\ndn. \ie ciai ^a.m the remission of 4

.o'0;ie.\%^*

^SQ^ia,

Sect. 11.

Eoute 19. — Koimbatur,

277

he stops a year and can get 4 months
remitted. He may then become a
maestri or head of a gang, and may
get 4 more months remitted. He may
then become a warder, but it is rare
for that grade to be obtained. The
New Cliurch at Koimbatiir, All Souls,
is f m. N.E. of the rly. stat. It
is plain but well b. and has stained
glass windows. The place for the
communion table is extremely hand-
some, and there is a fine brass there to
Edith Grimes, d. of the superintendent
of the jail. This church holds 80 per-
sons. The Missianat'y CImreh is some
hundred yds. S. of the jail. It is very
plain. The cemetei'y is J m. S.E. of
this church. It is within 20 yds. of
the Racquet Court. There are 16
tombs of officers, 2 of whom died of
cholera. The town of Koimbatiir
was much improved by a late col-
lector, Mr. Wedderbum. The bazaar
is generally crowded, and some incon-
venience is occasioned by the circum-
stance that a Mu^ammadan Pir, or
holy man, is buried in the middle of
the thoroughfare. His tomb cannot
be removed without so shocking the
prejudices of the Muslims, as to cause
a serious disturbance. The Beading
Jtoams are not far from the rly. stat.
But the great sight of Koimbatiir is
Ihe Pagoda of Periir, about 3 m. dis-
tant. A view of a pillar at Penlr will
be found at p. 372 of Mr. Fergusson's
" History of Architecture,'* and also a
brief mention of it. He says, " the
date of the porch at Periir is ascer-
tained within narrow limits by the
figure of a SipAhl loading a musket
being carved on the base of one of its
pillars, and his costume and the shape
of his arm are exactly those we find in
contemporary pictures of the wars of
Aurangzib, or the early Mardthas in
the beginning of the 18th cent. As
shown in woodcut No. 209, the bracket
shafts are then attached to the piers,
as in Tirumallu Ndyak's buildings,
and though the general character of
the architecture is the same, there is a
coarseness in the details, and a marked
inferiority in the Ggure sculpture, that
betray the distance of date between
these 2 examples," We have, how-

ever, seen that at the Great Temple at
Tanjiir, which dates from the 11th or
12th century, the figure of a European
with a round hat has been introduced,
and there is no reason to doubt that
new figures were from time to time
introduced into the decorations of the
pagodas in the S. of India.

The drive to Penir passes through
the bazar and then turns S. On the
outskirts of the town and on the 1. of
the rd., a relief hospital was established,
where on the 3rd of April, 1878, there
were 276 sick, and others in a state of
semi-starvation, entreating to be ad-
mitted. The temple is about 3 m.
from Koimbatiir on the rt. of the rd.
In fi'ont of the Pagoda, which is a
very small one, there is a Dwaja
StanMa 35 ft. high. The temple is
sacred to Sabhdpati, a name of Shiva,
and there is a smaller one to Pattesh-
war. They were both b. in Tlrumal's
time. There is only 1 gopura with
5 storeys, about 55 ft. high. In the
corridor leading to the Vimdnah, there
are 8 very richly carved pillars on
either side in the front row, and be-
hind them 8 smaller and plainer.
From the ceiling hang several chains,
perhaps in imitation of the chains
with bells which hang from the Dwaja
Stambha in front of the building.
The pillars represent Shiva dancing
the Tdndev, Shiva killing Gajdsur the
elephant-headed demon, appropriate
enough in a locality where wild ele-
phants used to do such mischief ; Vlra
Bhadra slaying his foes, and the
Simha or lion of the S. Shiva is re-
presented with a huge shell of a tor-
toise at his back, which forms his
canopy. There is a hall of 72 pillars,
but the Brdhmans persist in reckoning
only 60. There is a small chapel here
with the appearance of Jain worship.

Tile Animalei Hills. — The best pomt
from which to visit these hills is
Koimbatiir, from which they are dis-
tant about 18 m. The name is a
compound of Ani "elephant," and
malei "hill." The range gives its
name to the* village oi Ardxs!L^\<5\^"^\5w:^
is near t\ie iwA. ol SX* crft.*Cft&"§<.^aRs.^
the appToac\i ol \.-t«N^^^'^'a» ^a *???**^,
bills \>eVas xx-sa-aSy^ >2afc-fvS^»%^*« ^^^

278

HotUe .19, — Madras to Koinibatur.

Sect II.

convenient basis of further movements,
being in the centre of the N. face of
the range, and most of the passes into
the mountains diverge from this point.
The Animalei range stretches from a
little N. of W. to the E. a Httle S.,
with an abrupt face of about 50 m. to
the N., the view of which on a clear
day from the village of Animalei is
magnificent ; the slope is more gradual
on the S. and W. face towards Kuchl
and the coast, the depth being about
30 m. in this direction. This block of
lull may be divided into two distinct
portions — ^the poiat of division being
about the village of Animalei ; to the
W. of this towards PAlghdt, the hills
are not much above 3000 ft. high, and
are covered with a primeval forest of
gigantic teak and other trees, which
supply the Bombay dockyai'ds with
timber. The westerly portion ranges
from 3000 to 6000 ft. in elevation, and
has much the peculiar character and
features of the Nilgiri hills ; the whole
is a continuation of the great range of
the Western Ghdts, which, as they
approach the southern part of the
peninsula, expand into plateau with
intervals of plain.

Animalei itself is a considerable
village, where the office of the super-
intendent of the forests is held ; there
is a good b.

The lower portion of the Animalei
range is much varied in level, and in-
tersected with mountain streams, some
of considerable size, which force their
way through rocks, and form cascades
of no small beauty ; the sound of the
falling water is most refreshing to the
traveller through the forest. The trees
consist of the teak {Tectona grandis),
several kinds of Dalbergia (/&?*), and
the iron- wood, with its aspen-like foli-
age, contrasting with the immense
leaves of the young teak trees. There
is not much underwood, and it is easy
to walk in any direction, the stems of
the forest-trees rising often to the
height of 60 ft. without a branch,
whSe the spreading foliage of their
Aeadg completely keeps off the sun,
tliese huge stems being interlaced with
climbing plants with stems little in-
fen'or to those of their supports. At

the sides of the streams broad patches
of bambi^s are found, which hang
over the water from side to side wav-
ing in the wind, and forming a means
of communication for the monkeys,
who seem to delight in passing over
them ; no undei'wood grows under the
bambis, but there is a deep bed of
the fallen leaves, which have collected
for years, where the herds of wild
cattle {Bos gaums) are fond of re-
treating during the day. These are
said to be exactly similar to those
formerly found in Britain, and still
preserved in Chillingham Park. Some-
times the forest opens out into clear
park-like glades covered with grass,
with pools of water and wild fruit
trees, where in the evening the wild
cattle and deer are usually to be found
grazing ; these cattle ai'e so numerous
that one may see several considerable
herds in a walk of a few m.

At TunakMu is the residence of the
superintendent of the forests, with an
establishment for the cutting of timber,
including elephants, who are most
useful assistants in dragging and piling
the timber. The logs are usually
dragged by bullocks to the N. face of
the range, when they pass down an
inclined plane, and thence into the r.
Pundr, which runs through the Pdl-
ghdt opening in the range, and into
the sea on the Malabdr coast. From
the mouth of the Pundr the timber is
shipped for Bombay. Much teak and
other timber is also cut on the S.W.
face of the hills within the province
of the KdjA of Kuchl.(Cochin), who has
an agent for the management of this
portion of his revenue at the port of
Kuchi. The teak of this forest is far
superior to that of Burmah in respect
of hardness and durability.

The forest also abounds with ginger,,
cardamoms, turmeric, honey, and wax ;
the pepper- vine covers the huge stems
of the trees like ivy, and the sarsa-
parilla appears in all the newly-cut
paths, while the purple Torenia and a
variety of sweet-smelling orchidaceous
plants, contribute to the beauty of the
scenery.

TYiere atei \mt t'e^ Ns!^MiJc>\\»Ks.\.^ \\sQi^

Sect. 11.

Houte 19. — Animalei Hills,

279

themselves KAdirs ; they live entirely
in the forest, and their habits are
singular. The number of wild animals
who divide with them the fastnesses
of the hills has rendered them as
familiar with the habits of beasts as
with their own : the facility with
which they will track a deer or a wild
bull over ground where, to an ordinary
eye, there is no visible mark, is quite
wonderful ; they seem to follow it
without the least hesitation, like a dog
on a strong scent. This renders them
invaluable adds to a sportsman. They
collect and sell the produce of the
forest, but do little in the way of
cultivation ; but they are an honest
plain-spoken race, and easily managed ;
their whole number is not above 200.

To a sportsman the Animalei Hills
ofEer an inexhaustible source of amuse-
ment ; herds of wild elephants abound,
and are of some value, lliey do not
domesticate them here, but shoot them
for the value of their ivory. The sport
requires a good shot, for unless the
bullet be lodged in the brain it has no
effect ; the oiily vulnerable spot being
at the root of the trunk, and a space
as large as the hand on each temple.
They are usually fired at from a dis-
tance of 10 or 15 paces, and if the aim
be good the huge animal falls perfectly
dead at one shot ; but the sport re-
quires nerve, as a miss may have
serious consequences. The Kddirs
regard them with much respect, as
they have no means of killing them.
The wild cattle are noble animals,
larger than an English ox, with short
much curved horns ; the bulls of a
sloe black, the cows of a deep tawny,
but all with white legs as far as half-
way up the fore arm and stifle joint.
The activity with which these immense
beasts leap over obstacles and pass
through broken ground is astonishing.
When wounded they are very danger-
ous antagonists ; or even without,
when a sulky old bull is found alone,
having been driven from the hei-d by
his younger brethren. There are also
bears and tigers, as well as the spotted
deer ; and in the bluffs and precipitous
parts of the rocks, the ibex is often to
be met with, There is no pait of t^e

world where stalking can be carried
on with so much success, but it is only
during the rainy months. The forest
is perfectly healthy at that season.
In November, when the wind changes
to the W., and the leaves, under a
bright blue sky, become brown and
dry, fever will attack the workmen by
the dozen in a day ; and they are
obliged to return to the plains. At
that season stalking is out of the ques-
tion, as there is no concealment, and
the rustling of the dry leaves betrays
the movements of the sportsman.

There are some very fine eagles ;
and the rhinoceros-birds (hombills) —
birds resembling toucans — with their
immense beaks, are continually seen,
or the harsh metallic sound of their
note is heard echoing through .the
woods. There are some good warblers.
One bird has a singul^ note. The
tone is like a full clear whistle, but
the intervals of the scale are singularly
marked ; and it gives the idea of some
one learning to whistle. Some flying
squirrels and black monkeys occupy
the upper storey of this leafy dwell-
ing place. The butterflies and other
insects are of great beauty ; and there
is a spider of an enormous size ; its
body is about 2 in. long, striped with
black and yellow, and its legs cover a
space as big as the hand. The web is
often met with in the brushwood, 6 ft.
sq., and strong enough to pull off a
man's hat in passing. In the larger
and deeper parts of the rs. are some
fine fish of the Mahdsir kind, which
rise well to a fly.

From Animalei to Tunakddn is about
16 m. ; 10 through the jungle at the
foot of the hills, which swarms with
peafowl and deer, and 5 m. up the
pass, through magnificent scenery ; a
mountain stream passes close to Tuna-
kddu, and forms a very beautiful cas-
cade. About 10 m. further to the S.
is a consideiable r., abounding with
fish : there is a pass through the forest
direct to Kuchi from this place ; the
distance is about 35 m., but it is a
rough passage. There are many leeches
in this past, ^\i\Oq. ^qt&w^^ Xk^ ^^xs<$
I one's leca an^ to ^sXV^Soam^^^^^^J^'^
Uliey ore ^eTCwre^v >Oaa ^^^> ^^

280

Rovie 19. — Madras to Koimhaiur,

Sect. 11.

their legs with tobacco to keep them
off ; linen gaiters, pulled over the feet,
are useful for this purpose. The eastern
portion of the Animalei is above the
level of the teak-tree, which is not
usually found higher than 3000 ft.;
there are some to be found near Pu-
ndchi, but they are scattered and
small, — in fact there is no teak forest.
It is much intersected with hills and
valleys; the hills are covered with
coarse grass, and the valleys and
vicinity of the streams are wooded.
At Pundchi there are 2 or 3 huts,
containing a few families ; but, after
passing this place, the interior is un-
inhabited, except by wUd animals,
which are much the same as about
Tunakddu, The scenery is more open,
and, from the greater height, perhaps
grander ; and in the highest valleys,
where the rhododendron and willow
hang over the streams, and the ferns
grow on the sides of the slopes, and
the hoar frost in the winter covers
everything with glistening white, the
scenery much resembles that of Eng-
land, though there are few parts of
England which equal it. The peculiar
feature is that the forest fills all the
intersections of the hills, and does not
graduate with brushwood into the
open ground, but ceases suddenly, the
largest forest trees being completely at
the edge, while beyond it is a clear
meadow. As in the Nllgiris, the
trees are rounded at the top, and the
branches gnarled and coverM with
long white moss. There are some
orchids, but they differ from those of
the lower part of the range ; and the
open sides of the hills are covered
with anemones, balsams, pedicularis,
ejacum, and lilies. The Salep Misri
is also found ; indeed, except in Eng-
land, the path is nowhere so throng^
with a profusion of flowers as in these
high lands of the tropics. The only
paths are those made by the deer or
elephants, and by the wild cattle. It
is singular how precisely the wild
animals follow these paths, and with
what precision they are carried to the
point in view, boweveT distant— not
jn a course up and down the hills, "but
jvan^ them, observing a regular pis^

of level, as if they had been planned
by an engineer. The following is
taken from a note made at the time
of an excursion into these hills by 3
Englishmen, with Kddir guides : —

''20th October, 1851.— Left Ani-
malei (height above the sea, 765 ft.)
at 2 A.M., and reached the foot of the
hills, above 5 m., at daybreak — having
lost our way in the dark. A number
of large squirrels, purple and black,
were playing about the trees. Ascended
the Ghdt on horseback, but not with-
out much difficulty ; it would have
been considered impassable for horses
elsewhere, but the Arabs are as good
as mules in the hills. We went on
over a good path, about 10 m., to
Pundchi (3000 ft. elevation). There
is a fine cascade just before reaching
Pundchi,< and an old coffee plantation,
which had been deserted, was near
the foot of the fall ; the coffee trees
were looking healthy, and were covered
with berries of a bright red and yellow
colour. After a rest, went on foot
through open ground with scattered
trees, fording the r. Turakadwdr, and
afterwards along the valley of that
stream, gradually ascending the whole
time as far as a waterfall, where an
old Anakatt bore witness to former
cultivation. It had rained the whole
way, and we had left the people be-
hind us ; the guide said he was tired,
and would go no further : bivouacked
on the rock, having made a little shelter
from the wind with a few boughs.
An old otter and its young one were
playing in the waterfall in a very
amusing way; one of us shot the
mother, and the Kddirs ate her. Ana-
katt 3650 ft. by the barometer.

"21st. — This cascade was at the
head of the valley of the Turakadwdr,
and on leaving it the ascent was
severe. . The 2 mountain peaks, Tan-
gdchi Mall6 and Ekka MaUe (the
younger and elder sisters), were on
our rt., and the scenery was magnifi-
cent ; the grass at the Anakatt was
10 ft. highT and being very Wet, it
was like walking through a pond.
On. tYie \i\i\ "w^ ^o\. vaio wa. elephant

Sect. ir.

Route 19. — Animalei Hills,

281

and fired 2 shots at him from about
15 yds. distance, without eflEect. The
beast turned and strode through the
forest down hill at his best pace,
crashing through the thickest part of
the wood with a terrific noise. We
followed, but could not come on him
again. We had come about 7 m., and
then crossed the r. again up to the
middle, and went up a grassy hill to a
small hut, which had been made by
the Kddirs beforehand, near a swamp.
Camped for the day ; height, 5600 ft.

"22nd.— Went to the top of the
Ekka Malld ; height 7000 fU nearly ;
found the top grassy, but scantily
covered. This is nearly the highest
point of the whole range. Got a
general view all around. Several
cascades visible in the forest. Saw a
fine open valley clear of trees, about
5 m. long, leading up to a conical hill,
which appeared Hke the water shed of
the range. Returned to hut.

" 23rd.— From hut to the bottom of
the valley, which we called Michael's
valley ; height 6000 ft. Yery fatigu-
ing walk of about 5 m. on the steep
side of the hill, covered with long
grass, concealing pointed and loose
rocks ; then through a sJiola or patch
of dense jungle, where we found the
carcase of a deer just killed by a tiger.
Found the track of the elephant of
yesterday, but did not follow it up.
Camped in a hut at the meeting of 2
small streams ; plenty of fern, rhodo-
dendrons, etc.

" 24th. — Rainy. Went up Michael's
valley ; found numerous tracks of
elephants, cattle, and deer. The KA-
dirs pointed out the number of the
herd of elephants, distinguished the
males from the females, and the young
ones which had strayed and returned
to their mothers' heels ; in fact, the
whole history of them was told us
from the tracks. Found a large bull,
and fired 2 balls into him, but he got
off, though he must have died. Tracked
an elephant down to the S. of the
conical hill, but without finding him.
Rain all day. Returned to Michael's
valley, and bathed in the stream ;
bitter cold.
**^5tb,—Went again up the valley,

and beat several sholas ; found wild
hogs and monkeys. The ground near
the marsh was much cut up by the
hogs. The KAdirs said this valley
must swarm with game in February
and March, when the jungle is burned
in the low grounds; very little at
this season.

"26th.— Left Michael's valley and
returned to the Anakatt ; found a fine
buck elk, which sprung up close to us,
also a number of toucans, and some
eagles. The path lay through the
forest the whole way, but was good
enough, having been made by the
elephants ; distance 10 m.

" 27th.— Walked from the Anakatt
to PunAchi, and in the evening went
on to Animalei ; distance 25 m. ; the
latter part of the way through wet
rice-fields in the dark."

There is a rd. from TunakMu to
PAlghdt, through Chamampadi and
Kolangod; distance 45 m. It skirts
the hills through the bambii jungle,
after descending the Ghdt, and then
stretches over the cultivated plain, with
a rd. such as is usually found in the in-
terior of India ; that is, of earth cut up
by carts and the feet of bullocks.

The Animalei hills require more
examination ; many parts of them
have not been visited. The eastern
portion of them joins, or nearly joins,
another range of hills, which is said
to be still more stocked with game,
among which the woodcock ought not
to be forgotten. The high lands of
the Animalei are quite capable of cul-
tivation, and are as habitable as the
Nllgiris, though less cool, being a de-
gree nearer the equator, and 2000 ft,
lower in elevation.

282

SotUe iO.^-'Koimbatur to tlie Mlgiris,

Sect. II.

BOUTE 20.

KOIMBATVB TO THE NILGIEIS. 36 M.
OP WHICH 21} BY BAIL, 5 M. 4 P.
BY CABBIAGE, AND THE BEST BY
PONY OB SEDAN.

Nameg of
Stations.

M.F.
6

5 2

6
4 4

21 6

Trains.

Remarks.

1. Tudialiir .

2. Gudaliir . .

3. Kdrandi

4. Metapalliam

Total

A.M.

8.20
9.30

S. on 1.
S. on r.
S. on r.
S. on r.

At Metapdlliam the stat. is exposed
to the pitiless heat of the sun, without
the shelter of a single tree. It is,
however, provided with a panhliah, as
are most of the stats, in S. India. At
850 yds. ofE on the r. hand is a hotel
fairly shaded with trees, but much in-
fested with flies. Soda water and other
drinks can be obtained, but they are
generally so hot that even thirst will
hardly induce any one to drink them.
Indifferent food is also obtainable. At
this place it is usual to pack one's
liiggage on a car with 2 small horses,
and start for the foot of the ghdt. At
the 6th f. the Bhawdni r. is crossed
by a bridge, and at IJ m. further a
small village is reached called Kanien
Kuder6. At 3 J m. further the Kalldr r.
is crossed by a bridge, and at about
6 f . further the foot of the Kumir
Ghdt is reached. The traveller may
then mount a pony or get into a tdnjdfij
a sort of sedan, which is very badly
protected from the sun by a piece of
semi-transparent canvas. It takes
about an hour to reach the foot of the
ghdt from the hotel, so by that time
the sun is very hot and the ascent very
trying. In about an hour the Govern-
ment gardens at Barlidr are reached ;
and here the traveller will do well to
rest and regale himself with fruit, es-
pecially the delicious mangosteens,

horse-chestnut or quince, with a hard
rind, which contains 6 milk-
white and delicious kernels. It
is one of the few fruits the eating of
which causes no satiety. The gardens
are worth seeing, as there are some
rare trees, and the shade is very grate-
ful in the middle of the day. The
mangosteen tree is a tall, handsome
shrub, with a leaf a little like that of a
laurel, 5 in. long. The nutmeg and
cinnamon trees also grow here, and
the Liberian coffee tree. Any number of
cocoa-nuts can be got in the shops of
the little, village, and the water they
contain is a most refreshing and
wholesome beverage. From this on-
ward to the top of the ghat there is a
road 12 or 14 ft. broad, but in the
season very much thronged with bul-
locks, carts, and other vehicles. The
tdnjdn men are not good carriers,
and though the ascent is not more
than 9 m., the traveller will be for-
tunate if he reaches the hotel before
4 P.M. Davidson's hotel is perhaps
the best, but Gray's is also veiy good.
The Nllgiris or " Blue Mountains "
— ^from Sky. nil, blue, gir, mountain ;
vul. Nilgherries — lie between lat.
iriO'— 11** 38', long. 76'*39'-77° 3',
and were formerly a T'aluk of the
Koimbatiir CoUectorate ; but from the
1st of August, 1868, they were made a
separate district, under Act 1 of 1868,
and placed under a commissioner.
They contain 17 nods, or "villages,"
and 2 municipalities, Utakamand and
Kumlr, and Wellington, which is a
d^pot for European military invalids.
^j the census of 1871 there were
49,601 inhab. in the district, and
13,922 houses, none of which were
imtenanted. The total area is 749 sq. m.
According to Capt. Burton, these hills
were discovered in 1816 by Messrs.
Keys and Macmahon of the Survey
Dept., who ascended by the Daneiken
Kotei Pass. According to others,
Messrs. Whish and Kinderley, C.S.,
were the first discoverers. When in
pursuit of smugglers they ascended the
Kotagiri Pass in 1819. It is certain

which cost 3 rs, a dozen j and it is not\t\iat» mt. ^\3lV^vi«x\, CqWl. oi Koimbatiir

often that more than a dozen can \)e\m l^lQj, fv.x^\. csJX^^ >i)a& ^\.^t!.\Nssw ^1

S'ot. The fniit is ^hout the size ot a\GQ^. ^ >i^^^- ^"^ ^ ^- ^^^\«w«s^^

Houte 20.~Tribet of (Ae Nilging.

Tbe following table shows the Dames of
the Tillages and Hie number and dUtri-
bution rathe hill tribes among tben :—

saii

6. Mnlcdiippa
T- PaJui^tuUl

a. Anjnir .
13. KnndoU

15. BlidKwnb.

Those who desire to go deeper into
qnestions connected with these hill
tribes, and into matters conneclM
with the statistics of the NUgiris than
I the limits of this book will allow, may
[ consnlt James Wilkinson Breek's?apec
I on the Prim. Tribes of the mils, pub-
'^'liahed by W. Allen k Co. ; Congreve'a
Paperin the Madras Journal for 1847-81
and Dr. Baikie's Nilgherries, edited
t^ Smoolt, Calcutta, 18B9. Separate
maps of Enniir, Utakamand, and
Wellington have been published by
the Madras Survey Dept. A brief
description of the tribes and their
cnsloma must here suffice. I. The
Erulari, or " benighted," have their
name from the Tamil word crvl,
"darkness." They are divided into
UrUi, or rulers, and Kanctali, common
people. They lire at the foot of the
mountains and on the edge of the great
forests that skirt their base. Their
language is a jargon, composed oE
Kamrese, Tfuoil, and jUaJajilam. They

bury tteir dead and worship ttie win- ( j
Qowing-fan, which they call Mabri, "I
and to which they sacri&ce goats and
oocks. They cohabit indiscriminately,
cultivate scattered imtches of forest
land, and eke out a living by the sale
of game, honey, and such-like jungle
pnSuce. They are small in stature,
id excessively ignorant and bar —

The KitTain^ri live above the
Ervlart, and, though resembling
them in some respects, are more Intel- •

geut, particularly as regards bunting
and mining operations. For the chase
here are no better guides, and 'in the
search for gold they show an amonnt
of skill wmcb can only have arisen
from the experience of successive gene-
rations. Their language is a mixed
argon. As regards the sepulture of
the deail, they use cremation and in-
terment indifferently. Their women
and children wear oniaments made of i
wild seeds and berries, and the men |
adorn their ears with yellow straw, I
ilaited with some ingenuity. They I
raw oC the sap or milk of a ttee I
called dvpa, whence they procure
sambiirani, or frankincense, and by
the DSC of various simples they have
made the surrounding tribes believe
that they are possessed of magical arts.
Thus, they are supposed to inflict mur-
rain on the cattle of their enemies, and
this has occasionally led to iudividualB
among them being murdered.

Above the Kiiraiabari live the i'a-
luttart (prop. Gohata ; from Skj-. jo,
"a cow," and hatya, "slaying," i.e.,
" cow-killerB "). These are a strange
race, having no distinction of caste,
and differing from the tribes around
them and all other natives of India,
Ihey are the artizans of the hills,
being smiths, potters, etc., and hence
are called by the Tiida* (Todas), Kum,
or " mechanics." They seem to be the
same as those callod in the Madras
Census of 1871, ji. 327, Xelit, who are
said to be musicians as well as crafts-
men, who earn just as much as is
necessary for their own ^iwrnsJ-'w^sSa,
Their T\ll8.es» "^ v'^WJCrj *«MSjeft.<»N.
hiUs, and wei^ Via, 'CcMft -icc^^,^
I c»lle4 fo)lw^ta9\T^,-«'ra^'©°^1 ^Sft^T'^

284

Eoide 20. — Koimhatur to tlie Nilgiris,

Sect. 11.

They are not Hindiis, but worship gods
of their own, which they do not, how-
ever, represent by images. Barley-
meal is their common food, but they
are greedily fond of flesh. Even the
half-devoured carcases of animals
killed by the tiger or wild-dog are to
them an acceptable repast. Like vul-
tures, they will follow a drove of bullocks
bringing up supplies from the lower
country, and pounce upon those that
drop from exhaustion or disease. They
carefully prepare the hides, and by the
sale of them realise enough to pay the
tax which Government exacts from
them. The Badakars^ or VadaJtars^
are by far the most numerous and
wealthy of all the tribes, and are vul-
garly called "Burghers." The name
is derived from Vadalta^ " the north,"
as is that of the VadayaJa sect (see
Madras Census, 1871, p. 97). They are
all Hindiis of the Shiva sect. Their
language is Kanarese. The Titdas call
them MarvSj " labourers." About 7
generations ago, during the anarchy
that ensued on the downfall of the
empire of Vijayanagar, after the
battle of TelAkot in 1564 A.D., the
BadakarSj then cultivators of the
plain, fled to the hills. To the tribes
already in possession they agreed to
pay certain tithes for permission to
cultivated. Thus each community of
them, besides a contribution to the
Tudas as lords of the soil, pays to the
Kohatars of their district 80 measures
for each plough of land, and about
l-60th of the produce to the Kuram-
bars. The Kurambars are, moreover,
residuaiy legatees to the Badakars,
and should any of the latter die with-
out heirs, his property goes to the Ku-
rambars, after the expenses of the
funeral are paid.

The last and most singular tribe of

all is that of the Tudas, or, as they are

more commonly called, Tonivas (a

Tamil term for "herdsmen.") This

extraordinary race, who altogether do

not number one thousand, including

women and children, style themselves

^^ men," and the question, "Is that a

^a/lava or a, Tnda ? " would with them

be literally f ^'Is that a labourer or a

^aa/" S%e7 divide themselves into

two classes — PaikU or TerallU, who
can hold all sacred offices ; and Katai
or Tardas, who are the laymen. The
Tudas are a singularly handsome race,
tall and athletic, with Roman noses,
beautiful teeth, and large, full, expres-
sive eyes. They never wear any cover-
ing on the head, but their jet-black
hair is allowed to grow to the length
of 6 or 7 in., and forms a thick bushy
mass of curls all round. Their women
retain their good looks longer than the
females of the low country, and many
of the girls are exquisitely beautiful.
Their dress consists of a short under-
garment folded round the waist, and
fastened by a girdle. Over this is thrown
a sort of mantle, or toga, which covers
every part except the head, legs, and
right arm. The tresses of the women
are allowed to fall in natural profusion
over the neck and shoulders. Their
villages, which they call MorttSj are
generally situated on some lovely ver-
dant slope, near the borders of a wood.
They breed no animals save the buf-
falo, nor do they engage in agriculture
or any other pursuit, but wander over
the hills, of which it is said they
are aborigines, free and unshackled.
In their Mortts, their dairies form a
separate building of superior size,-!
which is viewed by them as sacred, and! I
into which no female is allowed toll
enter. Their religion seems to be pure •
Theism ; idols they have none, and
they regard the Brdhmans with con-
tempt. They have a temple dedi-
cated to Truth, but there is no visible
representation within ; in fact, nothing l
but three or four bells in a niche, to
which libations of milk are poured
out. They salute the sun on its rising,
and believe that, after death, the soul
goes to Otii-7ior)% " the great country,"
respecting which they do not attempt
to furnish any description. They have
a sort of sacred groves called 2'erirUy
and to these herds of buffalo are at-
tached, whose milk is allotted entirely
to the calves ; and the priests of these
groves are called Pdl-dlj from Tamil
words signifying "milk-men." They
atft hoii%,st,\iT«^^,\TiG^'e^w5!e, a-nd con-
tented •, \>\xt, Oft. \}cvfc ciKXvet V-eccA, \W^
axe micVoVeut, a?cvQk. ^^ ^^'^ ^"^\<i^\ck. ^iSissa.-

3t. 11.

HoiUe 20. — Tribes of tlie NilgirU^

286

r a virtue. Their dwellings more
2mble the dens of beasts than the
►des of men. A door about 2 ft.
h, and so narrow as to almost forbid
ress, leads to a dark dirty chamber,
ere a whole family may be found
Idled together. Yet, even here, in
te of their rude dress and not over
inly habits, the beauty of their
idens cannot be overlooked. Their
imetry of form, and the tender and
icate expression of their features,
Lble them to stand a comparison
h the paler beauties of the West.
Long the most singular of their cus-
is is the sacrifice of buffaloes at
tr funerals, attended with a strange
t of games. These animals, which

of a prodigious size, and far larger
I wilder than the buffaloes of the
in, are driven into an enclosed area
a party of young men armed with
;e clubs, who join hands and dance
lort of circular dance among them,
jy then with shouts and
ws excite the fury of the herd,
L at a given signal two athletic
.ths throw themselves upon a buf-
), and grasping the cartilage of the
trils with one hand, hang on to the
k with the other. Two or three
re rush to their aid, while others
ke the animal with their clubs, and
d them on to fury. After a time,
3n the buffalo is nearly exhausted,
J fasten a bell to its neck and let it
In this way they overpower the
i in succession, and then resume
ir dance, which is concluded by a
jt. The next day a similar scene
B8 place ; but on this occasion the
Ealoes are dragged by the sheer
;e of 6 or 8 men up to a mantle
taining the relics of the deceased,
. there slain with a single blow from
nail axe. In the desperate struggles
he infuriated animals to escape, the
las are often severely wounded ;

the courage and strength they
)lay is very remarkable, and it is a
it of honour for those who have
i attacked an animal not to receive
stance. Another singular, though

unique, custom of the Tfidas, is
; of Polyandry, also found among
Nairs of Malabdr and the hill

tribes of the Himalaya. The brothers
of a family regularly have only one
wife, and the same arrangement is fre-
quently, nay, generally, adopted with
others not related. As a consequence
of this, female infanticide was formerly
practised, and though stopped for a
time by the exertions of the late Mr.
Sullivan, has, it is feared, been again
resumed. Many conjectm*es have been
made as to the origin of the Tudas,
but as yet no certain traces of their
past history have been discovered.
Their language is quite isolated, the
sounds of it are deeply pectoral, and it
seems to have no aflSnity either with
Sanskrit or with any other language
of the East. Hai-kness, however, thinks
it is allied to the Malay dlam, and alleges
that it has a dual number and an aorist
tense. Caldwell (Compar. Grammar)
classes it with the Dravidian lan-
guages.

The road, about 20 ft. wide, up the
Kuniir Ghdt, zigzags along the side of
a steep mountain, beautifully wooded,
with another mountain side a mile or
so off, and a deep glen, or rather
chasm, between, at the bottom of
which flows a small brawling stream.
Some tall forest trees and many
flowering shrubs deprive the occa-
sional precipices of their horror, and
make the ascent incomparably more
pleasant than that to Simla, and some
of the other Bengal Sanitaria, where
man and his beasts of burthen crawl
along the naked edge of an abyss,
where to fall would be instant destruc-
tion. The slope of the ascent averages
about 1 ft. in 13 ft., and is easy for pedes-
trians and equestrians, and not impossi-
ble even for carriages. About 1 m. before
reaching the hotel, a footpath branches
off from the road, and the tdnjan
bearers generally take this short cut.
Mr. Davidson's hotel is called Glenview,
and consists of several detached bs.
The charge for food and a sleeping-
room and bath-room is 5 rs. a day.
The bed-rooms are very small, and the
bath-rooms tiny. The account given
in Smoult's ed. of Baikie's Guide is
altogeihei too ^Vavnx\%. \a.TL<30A.^'<feR.
botela la ln^a. \^ ^iJtia coSs&\a&^V\>.\.-*.^
inig\it"beeaaiy m^e.UXJaa w^^^^^'^^

286

Eoute 20. — Koimbatur to tlie Nilgiris.

Sect. II.

content themselves with making Indian
dishes, and make them as well as for
themselves, there would be no cause of
complaint ; but even the curries pre-
pared for travellers are far inferior
to what the cook or any ordinary ser-
vant would make for himself. The
puldo too is a delicious dish when
well made, and good chicken broth
ought to be attainable in every
house of refreshment. But any tra-
veller who is at all fastidious as regards
his meals, or has the delicate appetite
of an invalid, will fare very indiffer-
ently at the Nilgiris, even at the Club.
The best plan is to engage a servant
who can cook, and be content with a
few plain dishes, which can always be
prepared, even at a travellers' b., by a
man who really wishes to afford his
master a digestible meal. There are,
however, no t, b.'s at Kuniir, Utaka-
mand, and Kotagiri.

Kunur is 6100 ft. above sea level.
The climate is about 6° warmer than
that of Utakamand, the mean annual
temperature being 65°, and the rain-
fall 55 in. The rides and walks are
beautiful, but somewhat limited, unless
one is a real mountameer, and is pre-
pared to toil through jungle and to
climb difficult heights. The sights are
soon exhausted. A ride of 4 m. as the
crow flies, but of 7 m. following the
windings of the path, brings the tra-
veller to the Katharine Water-fall,
which is situated N.E. of Kuniir, and
not quite half-way to Kotagiri. The
road leads for 3 m. along the skirts of
pretty woods, sholas as they are here
called, and then turns off into a narrower
one not shaded by trees ; after a m. of
which you come to a rocky bluff called
Lady Canning's Seat. Below to the
S. you see extensive coffee plantations,
belonging to the Messrs. Arbuthnot
and others. You then descend con-
siderably, and turn S., to a high bluff
with a path all round it, overlooking
the chasm into which the stream that
makes the Katharine Fall descends.
The view here is fine. The water-fall
does not exceed 300 ft. in height, but
f^e ravine is very profound, and aitei
^m, the stream finds its way into tTie
Bbawini in the low country. Tbis

ride affords a good idea of about half
the S.E. frontier of the Nilgiris, but
beyond Kotagiri it becomes wilder.
The trees seen in this ride are lovely,
especially 3 kinds of acacia ; of which
the blue kind contrasts well with the
green foliage of the trees.

From Kuniir another journey may
be made to the Ilnlihal durg, or Tiger-
rock Fort, which is on the summit of
a hill that towers up to the 1. of the
pass in ascending from Metapalliam.
The expedition is one that requires
the whole day from dawn to sunset, and
is very fatiguing. The road to it turns
off at the f&st zigzag on the new ghit
about 2 m. from Kuniir. A rough
bridle-path along the ridge leads to it.
The best line to follow for part of the
way is a private road across Mr. Mul-
laly's coffee estate, but his consent must
be obtained. The peak is said to be
8585 ft. high, and to command, in
clear weather, even a view of the
sea, which washes the coast of Mala-
bdr, 50 m. to the W. ; but this is
more than doubtful. It is also said
that the fort here was erected by
Ilaidar ' Ali, though it is difficult to see
with what object, as it does not com-
mand a pass, and is so inaccessible
that it must have been almost impos-
sible to supply the garrison with pro-
visions. In Kuniir itself there is not
much to see, except the Churchy which
is about a J m. to the N.E. of Glenview,
The ascent to it is rather steep for a
carriage. The churchyard is pretty,
and there are a good many neat tombs
and several tablets inside the church.
In riding outside Kuniir, as, for ex-
ample, to the Katharine Falls, it will
be well to avoid encountering herds
of buffaloes, as these creatures, stohd
and sluggish with the children or men
who drive them, are savage and dan-
gerous with Europeans ; and to be
charged by a bull buffalo on a narrow
path overlooking a precipice is a thing
better heard of than realised. From
Glenview to the town of Kuniir, pro-
perly so-called, by the road, which
winds considerably, is \\ m. At
ILvm^T xYi^a To^d crosses, by a bridge,

tide ^XMOAIT T .,'^\i\c)Cl, ^SJ^i'tXjfeYTSJ^.VKSSSji

Sect. II.

SoiUe 20. — Utdkamand.

287

and falls into the Kartairi. The
office of the Madras Carrying Comp.
and Refreshment Rooms are on the 1.
close to the bridge. To visit people
here in a carriage is a matter of diffi-
culty, owing to the extreme steepness
of the ascent. From the Post-office
at Kuniir it is about 2\ m. to the Wel-
lington Barracks at Jakatala, oyer a
road fatiguing to horses from the
ascents and descents. About ^ a m.
before reaching the Barracks a pretty
fountain at a cross road is come to.
The water shoots up and falls back into
a basin. Here the med. officer examines
the new men coming to the Barracks,
to see there is no infectious disease,
as cholera has been once or twice
brought up by the neglect of this pre-
caution. The road to the Barracks
turns off here sharply to the 1. or W.
The Barracks are an unsightly pile,
nearly 900 ft. long from N.E. to S.W.,
at the foot of a very steep hill, on
which is the commandant's house,
which is on the N.E. About halfway
up this hill is a reservoir, where water
is collected for ablution and washing
purposes. It is brought in pipes from
a spot in the hills about 4 m. N.E. of
the Barracks. There is also here a
spring of excellent drinking water,
and of water for all purposes there is
an abundant supply at the Barracks,
pipes being laid on to supply a large
swimming bath and to all parts of the
building. There is room in the Bar-
racks for 740 single men and 134
families, the married women's quarters
being in detached houses to the S.W.,
separated by an interval of 400 ft.
The Barracks were built by the Dept.
of Public Works, the officer who con-
structed them being Capt. J. Campbell,
B.E. They were commenced in 1858 and
finished in 1860. The Hospital was
commenced in 1854 and finished in
the same year. The Barracks have
2 storeys and are coloured yellow, and
are declared by the Commandant to
be among the finest in India, and no
doubt are very comfortable. The
Commandant's garden is remarkably
pretty, and contains a fountain. The
accommodation in the women's quarters
is too limited, A large piece of ground

close to the Barracks is cultivated by
the soldiers, where both flowers and
vegetables are very successfully grown.
TMs employment is in all respects
most beneficial to the men. There
are also a good cricket ground, a
skittle alley, a racquet court, and a
Fives court. Jakatdla, as the spot
where the Barracks stand is called,
derives its name from a village in the
direction of Utakamand, which is said
to be so termed from a Kanarese
word that means barberry (Smoult's
" Baikie," p. 48). The Kanarese dic-
tionary, however, shows no such
vocable. The height of Jakat41a is
6100 ft. above the sea. The mean
annual range of the thermometer is
64** 8'; of the barometer 24^ The
rainfall is about 70 inches.

Utakamand. — From Jakatdla Bar-
racks to Utakamand is \0\ m., but
these figures give a very faint idea of
the length of the journey, which is
against collar the whole way and most
fatiguing to horses. The traveller
will be very fortunate if he secures a
relay of good steeds to do the last 5
m. It is not unusual to have horses
sent out to meet a carriage that simply
draw it to the side of the road over-
looking the precipice, and defy all
attempts to urge them further except
in a downward direction. Should
the traveller not be so fortunate as to
get good horses he may calculate on
its taking him in a carriage at least
3 hours to do the lOJ m. from the
Barracks to Sylk's Hotel at Utaka-
mand. In Smoult's edition of " Baikie,"
p. 48, it is said that there is abundance
of game in the woods and ravines
about Jakatdla, and in August, 1856,
it is said that Lieut. Thackery of the
74th shot a tiger there that measured
12 ft. 6 in. In the direction of Utaka-
mand, however, the road discloses no
cover for such animals. It is generally
very bare of trees, and skirts a preci-
pice of some hundred ft. in height,
which looks down on patches of culti-
vation. It is nevertheless the fact
that in Utakamand itself a very large
tiger was wo\xw!dedL\s^ Mx.¥k."^^^Rx.
some yeai^ a^o. Taec^ «t<i craa <2ft N-^^

288

Mo}de 20. — Koimhatur to the ^tlgiris. Sect. It

great advantage in going to Sylk's is
that it is only 250 yds. beyond the Club,
formerly the house of Sir W. Rambold,
so that if the traveller can get himself
elected as honorary member to the
Club he can have all the advantages
of that establishment without having
to go far for them. The charge per
diem at the Hotel may be reckoned at
6 rs. for food and lodging, exclusive of
wine and beer. The road from Kuniir
by which the traveller has come runs
up till it reaches a toll-house, which
marks the E. limit of the Municipality
of Utakamand, and is 2J m. from the
Club. The road then turns due N. for
1 m. 5 f . to a place called Charing
Cross, when it again turns W. to the
Club and Sylk's Union Hotel, which
occupies a very central position. The
Stat, of Utakamand is in a valley sur-
rounded by lofty hills, of which Dodda-
bett on the E. is the highest, being
8622 ft. above sea level. But there
are also other high hills, as Elk Hill,
8090 ft. high. In the centre of the
Stat, is a lake, which is 11 f. long from
E. to W., and about 1 f. from N. to S.
At 2 f. trom the E. end is a bridge
from the N. to the S. side. There is a
road all round the lake, which is one
of the most pleasant drives at the
Stat. The Club stands 3 f. N. of the
lake, and the principal church, St.
Stephen's, is 2J f. E. of the Club. The
P.O. is H f- S.E. of St. Stephen's, and
the Alexandra Hotel is 1^ f. S. by E.
of the P.O. The Market is close to
the E. end of the Lake, and the Jail
is to its W., and 1 J f . N. of the Lake.
St. Thomas's church is on the S. side
of the Lake and close to it, and 1 f.
W. of the bridge. These points and
distances will suffice to guide the
visitor over the stat.

The first clear day may be spent in

a visit to the Chinchona Plantations

of Doddabett, and the excursion will

afford a grand view over the stat. to

the W., and the valley of the Moydr r.

to the E. The visitor will drive or

ride to the Botanical Gardens, which

are 1 m. If. by road to the N.E.

of St Stephen's church. They were

established in 1840 hj public subscrip-

tjon. The gardens are beautifully

laid out in terraces one above another
at the foot of a tall hill, which gradu-
ally rises till it culminates in the peak
of Doddabett, 1206 ft. above the Gar-
dens, and 8622 ft. above the sea. The
Superintendent's house at these Grar- -
dens is small but charmingly situated, '
and has been used by the Governor,
but a new Government House is being
erected to the N. on a much grander
scale. At the Gardens the visitor will
alight from his caiTiage and ascend
higher on horseback or on foot, or if
he prefers it he can be carried by the
labourers in a chair. After about ^
m. he will enter the Chinchona Plan-
tations, which are not much in point
of appearance, as the tree is not large
nor carrying much foliage, nor in any
way attractive to look at. The tree
here cultivated is the officinale, and
is of 3 kinds : 1, the Condaminea ; 2,
the Bonplandinia ; 3, the crispa. After
the tree has grown 8 years it is barked.
Half of the bark is taken off in 6
months during the rains, and the other
half next year. The tree then rests
one year, so that each yield takes 3
years. When barked it is swathed in
moss, a 'system which Mr. Mclvor, the
former Superintendent here, introduced
from Peru. After the tree has been
mossed it gives an improved yield, as
it developes more bitter and alkaloid
particles. The bark is cut off in paral-
lel slips, and grows again after the
mossing. This is the crown bark.
There are other 3 kinds of Chinchona
which do not succeed here. These are
the red bark ; the Chinchona ma-
crantha, or grey bark ; and the yellow
bark. These kinds are dying out at
the plantation. The tree grows to
the height of 25 ft., and gives little
shade, which is of no consequence to
the visitor, as there is always a cool
breeze on Doddabett, and with a solar
hat the sun will not inflict much dis-
comfort. The plantation covers 307
acres. From the top of the ridge a
most superb panorama is seen. Look-
ing to the S.W. one notices Elk Hill,
8090 ft. high, behind which and not
visible \a the Lawrence Asylum, which
lis 7^^0 it. ^\\x^e^ \.q XJoa ^.W. ia
\c\iiuua\iQ^^'^^^^'^.^^'t\AV^\^^^

t 11. Route 20. — The Lawrence Asyluni'^Keti.

289

) ft., and in the far W. Cairn Hill,
\ ft. Utakamand itself and its
e and St. Stephen's Church Hill,
) ft., are all unrolled to view. To
N. beyond the stat. are still higher
i, as Snowdon, 8299, and Club Hill,
) ft. The finest view, however, is
-he E. Here is Orange Valley,
re oranges grow wild. Here, too,
le Moydr Valley, ignobly termed
3 Maisiir Ditch," but really pro-
id and gloomy with forests and

shadows of over-hanging hills.
Q also is seen dimly the Gajalhatti
I and Kotagiri, and mountains
)nd, unknown and inaccessible
1 dense forests thronged with
ge beasts. The visitor will ob-
e the 3 kinds of Acacia, the
moxylon, the dealbata, and the
alyptus globulus, or blue gum

which at its 3rd year sheds its

leaves, and puts out others of a
: green. After descending from
heights, the visitor may take a
. to the N.E., previously, of course,
ng ordered his carriage to meet

at the foot of the hill in that
3tion. The whole expedition will

about 6 or 7 hours, that is sup-
Qg that the highest peak, Doddal^ett
f , is visited.

ke Lawrence Asylum, — ^The next
. will be to the Lawrence Asylum,
open carriage for this trip will

6 rs. The road leads S. after
ing the E. comer of the Lake,
passes several farms and planta-
3. The 4sylnm is 6 m. from the

at Utakamand, and is a hand-
3 structure, with a tower over 70
ligh. The dining-room is large
igh to accommodate 300 boys. Li
e good portraits of Sir Hope and
y Grant, by Sir Hope's brother Sir
icie Grant. The boys learn among
r things telegraphy, and Govem-
t receives into its service 10 or 15
he students a year, who at once
10 rs. a month. Some of the boys
taught tailoring, and others other
es. The dormitories hold 35 beds
l; There is no Hospital and no
engine, a great desideratum. The
or may return by another road,
vfiU notice a fne piece of water,

with a lovely sJwla or wood close to
it. He will remark also the tea plan-
tations. The plant is pruned down to
3 ft. and bears after 5 years. The
leaves are large and slightly aromatic.
A third drive will be to St. Stephen's
church, and round the Lake. The
church was founded by Governor
Stephen Lushington on the 23rd
April, 1829, consecrated by the Bishop
of Calcutta on the 5th December,

1830, and opened on the 3rd April,

1831. It has seats for 300 persons.
There is a tablet in the church to the
memory of Dr. Dealtiy. The cemetery
adjoins. In driving round the Lake
St. Thomas's church will be passed.
It is on the S. side. The foundation
stone was laid by General Howard
Dawker on the 3rd May, 1869, and
the church was consecrated by Bishop
Milman on the 26th October, 1870.
After these 3 drives, and after a visit
to the Public Library, which is near St.
Stephen's, and was founded on the 30th
June, 1867, and to the Jail for Euro-
peans, where on the 4th April, 1878,
there were 150 prisoners, and a look
at Bishop's Downs, where the Bishop
of Madras resides in a fine house with
a park of 150 acres tastefully laid out ;
at Woodcock Hall overlooking the
Lake, where Lord Harris resided ; and
at Walthamstow where Lord Dalhousie
stayed, the visitor will have seen
nearly all that is worth seeing at
Utakamand. In some of the com-
pounds or grounds of these villas he
will see beautiful shrubs. Baikie's
Guide (Smoult's ed.) says that a
heliotrope in Mr. Dawson's garden
attained 10 ft. in height, and 30 ft. in
circumference, and a verbena 20 ft. in
height, with the branches of a tree.

£eti, — A pleasant drive of 5 m. to
the S.E. takes one to Keti, where is
the Basle Mission. A Government
farm was established in the Keti
valley in 1831, in the hope that Euro-
pean produce might be derived from
it. This idea was not realised, and
the Governor of Puducheri then in-
habited the farm-house ;for a time.
After this Loxd EiV^\iflisiu3\5ft \R(^ -sw
lease oi tiie pTO^xX.^ lot "Caa ^^^c^^
term, 99 -jeota. "^^ e^^^^^ *^^

290

Soute 20. — Eoimbatur to the Nilgiris, Sect. H

building, and furnished it magnifi-
cently with articles selected by Count
D'Orsay. In 1845 Mr. Casamajor,
of the Madras Civil Service, bought
the property for 15,000 rs. and ex-
pended 10,000 rs. on it. At his death
he bequeathed the greater- part of his
fortune to the Basle Mission, and they
purchased the house for 10,000 rs.
Government then dismantled the
house, and sold the carpets, curtains,
and marble chimney-pieces for 4000
rs., and now the bnilding presents a
sad contrast to its appearance when
richly furnished and inhabited by
Lord Elphinstone, when the doors had
ivory handles, and the plate-glass
windows opened close to the lawn.

MurTiurti Peak, — A day may be well
spent in riding to Murkurti Peak,
which is 12 m. distant from Utaka-
mand, as the crow flies, and 14 m. by
road. It is situated due W. of the
Stat., among the grand mountains of
the Kimdas, and the scenery is mag-
nificent. Of course the traveller will
take his refreshments with him, for
none are to be had in that wild region.
It will be also well to take a rifle.
According to the table of heights at
p. X. of the Appendix in Smoult's
" Baikie," this peak is 8402 ft. high,
while Avalanche Hill is 8502 ft., Kun-
dah Peak 8363 ft., and Devibetta
(Sugar-loaf Hill) only 6571 ft. An-
o,ther name for the Murkurti Peak is
Taigannam, " It is a spot," says the
book just referred to, " held sacred by
the Tudas as the residence of a per-
sonage whom they believe to be the
keeper of the gates of Heaven." The
religion of this singular tribe, the
Tudas, has not yet been definitely
ascertained. The author of this book
conversed with one of their old men
in Kanarese, and on interrogating him
on the subject of his fait£, the old
man said, " I worship the Swdmi, who
dwells in Heaven, but I know not his
name." In going to this peak the
traveller follows the windings of the
Pavhk r. to its confluence with the
Paikdri, Thence he will trace the
Paikdri to its source, which is close to
tlie Murkurti Peak. From the source
of the Paik&ri an easy ascent of 1^ m.

leads to the summit of the peak ; and
there, should the mist and clouds
fortunately roll away, a grand and
awful scene will present itself to the
view. The W. side of the mountain
is a terrific and perfectly perpendi-
cular precipice of at least 7000 ft.
The mountain seems to have been cut
sheer through the centre, leaving not
the slightest shelve or ledge between
the pinnacle on which the traveller
stands and the level of the plains
below. To add to the terror of this
sublime view, the spot on which the
gazer places his feet is as crumbling
as precipitous, the ground being so
insecure that with almost a touch
large masses can be hurled down the
prodigious height into the barrier
forest at the foot of the hills, which at
such a distance looks like moss. Many
parts of this locality are still unexplored;
and the lover of the picturesque, the
man of science, and the sportsman will
find imending amusement in the won*
drous scenery around.

Other sights on the Nllgiris are the
stone circles, which the Tudas call
Phins, and which contain images, urns,
rehcs, and some very prettUy wrought
gold ornaments ; the waterfalls at U-
Ydl-Hatti, and those at the top of the
Slgiir Ghdt ; there is also another
much finer, in the heart of the Kundas,
formed by the Bhawdnl, 400 or 600 ft.
high, with a large body of water, and
surrounded by scenery of the most
savage grandeur, but it is difficult of ac-
cess, and scarcely to be found without
a guide; the Eanga-Sw^mi temple and
the fortress of Gaganachiki may also
be visited. The native villages of the
Tudas and other tribes may be visited
en route in any of these expeditions.

The stone'Circles are found in many
parts of the hills, but the most conve-
nient locality for a visit from Utaka-
mand is the hill of Karoni, 3 m. to the S.
The circles are built of rough, unhewn
stone, some of them of a large size,
which must have been brought from
a considerable distance. The history
of their construction is quite imknown.

T\ietft «t(i tcislTI'^ \5fe»x3ctifal cascades

Sect. II.

Eoute 20. — 'KUagiri,

291

specimens. En route to U-Ydl-Hatti
the mined fortress of Mal6k6ta, N.W.
of UtaJfamand, may be visited. It
occupies the N.E. extremity of a range
of hills, its figure being an irregular
square, the diameter of which does
not exceed 300 yds. The walls are
built of rough stone, and are sur-
rounded by a dry ditch, surprisingly
deep in some parts, and in general not
less than 60 ft., with a breadth at the
surface of 30 ft. There is but one en-
trance, by a causeway little more than

2 ft. wide, over one of the deepest
parts of the fosse. To the S.E. are
lulls of much greater elevation, on
which are the ruins of two watch-
towers built by Tlpii. The road next
passes through the large Badakar vil-
lage called Slwlur^ 2 m. to the N.W.
of Mal6k6ta, and thence through many
pretty villages to the hamlet of Bal-
likaly which is little more than 8 m.
from Utakamand. The traveller will
next descend to Sigur at the base of
the mountains, and thence pass through
a dense forest for 22 m. abounding with
wild animads. The path now lies over
several chains of mountains, which
skirt the higher lands of the Nllgiris
to the N. ; and from these ridges there
are magnificent and extensive views
of Maisiir. A day's travelling among
this picturesque scenery brings the
traveller to Kon-oge^ a Ter-ir-i, or
sacred place of the Tudas, near which

3 of their villages are situated. At a
short distance from this is U-Tdl-
HaUi, or, « The Hamlet of the
Cataract." The water falls about 60
or 70 ft. into a natural basin. The
scene is rather picturesque and beauti-
ful than grand. The same remark
applies in a still stronger degree to
the next two Falls noticed above,
which are too well known and too
easily visited to require any particular
description here. If inclined to look
for the 4th cataract in the list here
given, the traveller should quit the
road about 5 m. from Avalanche b.,
and follow the Bhaw&nl r. due S. for

4 m. which will conduct him to it.

In order to visit the temple ofJEUmga'
gw&mi the traveller will proceed first
of all 15 m, nearly due E, to Kdtagiri,

This station is, perhaps, better suited
for invalids than Utakamand. The
climate is nearly 3" warmer, and the
variation 5° less. The rain which falls
is also considerably, less, as the S.W.
monsoon seems to spend its force on
the Kunda range, and reaches K6tagrri
with abated violence. About 5 m.
from K6tagiri is a beautiful valley,
called the Orange Valley, from the
number of orange and lime trees that
grow there. Between this valley and
K6tagiri, on a plateau about 2 m. from
the latter place, is the invalid station
of Dimhatti, which was the first place
colonised by Europeans on the hills,
but is now almost deserted. At all
these places fruits ripen infinitely
better than at Utakamand. At Orange
Valley there is a Government farm.
Leaving K6tagiri, the road descends
about 1000 ft. to a village called Bel-
liki, in the approach to which is a low
hill, on which are several monuments,
resembling the stone circles already
described. After a further descent,
the ruined fortress of Atra is reached,
situated in the centre of the glen,
with here and there an opening in the
mountains, through which partial views
of the low country may be obtained.
The thermometer here rises to 80'.
Limes and oranges of spontaneous
growth are in abundance. Hence the
road passes to the E. base of the hills,
near which is the singular conical hill
on which is the temple of Eangaswdmi.
Its isolated situation and difficulty of
access have perhaps combined to en-
hance its sacredness with the natives.
On the top is a solitary stone, which is
an object of worship. There is a rude
shed near, dignified with the name of
temple. This excursion will serve to ac-
quaint the tourist with the scenery of the
E. side of the Nllgiris. He may also, en
route^ visit Danaikenkota, and the con-
fluence of the MoyAr and Bhawdnl rs.
The fortress of GaganacMki (Ga-
gana^ "heaven," ehiUy "reaching,"),
lies S.E. of Utakamand. The road
leads through the valley of Keti,
which is, perhaps, tbft TaR«fc \i««ssia&ai>^
oiithe\nl\a. On.^iJa&^A'Mifc^t ^^or.^
the mo\m.taax\B N^"\i\s5ti. ^oitwscaSL ^is. ^

292

Eoute 20. — Koimhatur to the NUgiris,

Sect. 11.

where the traveller may halt awhile
and enjoy the delicious scene. A
few m. further on is the village of
Kaultr6, also belonging to the Bada-
kars, where a halt may be made for
the night. To the N.E. of this village,
at the distance of a few m., is a fine
cataract, which must be passed on the
way to Gaganachiki. llie stream in
its fall forms a vast perpendicular
column, 100 ft. high, and then, divid-
ing into several minor columns, finds
its level 300 of 400 ft. lower down.
At about 12 m. distance from Utaka-
mand, the traveller comes to the
hamlet and ruined fort of Hulikal
(JSulif " tiger," kal, " rock," a chief of
the native tribes having slain a tiger
here). Near the village is a deserted
'ffwrtt of the Tudas, situated in a
lovely spot, part of the brow of an
immense mountain, beautifully wooded,
the regularity of the trees and the
vistas they afford giving to it all the
appearance of being adorned by art.
At Hulikal the night's halt may be
made. Starting at an early hour next
morning, the traveller will reach in 2
or 3 hours a Badakar village at the foot
of the mountain Gaganachiki, which is
partially detached, and stands at the
extremity of one of the ribs, which,
like mighty buttresses thrown up to
support the central and more elevated
parts, surround the hiUs in every direc-
tion. From its base to the walls of
the fortress on the summit the moun-
tain is covered with a dense forest,
which, to the height of some thousand
ft. resembles the jungles of the plain.
Above that point the trees are loftier,
with large spreading branches, and
with little or no underwood. The
approach to the fortress is most diffi-
cult — along the edge of a precipice
where it is necessary to advance in
single file, and that with the greatest
caution. A narrow gateway opposite
to the principal one, which is now
choked up with trees, admits the visi-
tor. In the time of Tlpii this fortress
was called Saiyiddbdd, and was held
jbjra garrison of 100 men under a Kila-
ddr named *Ali^&D. The ruins oc-
cnpy the whole crest of the moimtain,
CO the edges of which the walls are

raised. The view from the sununit
into the low country is magnificent.

It remains to say something of the
sport to be obtained on the Nilgiris,
and of the natural products. The
woods in general are so ornamentally
disposed as to remind one of the parks
in a European country. They are
easily beaten, and, from the end of
October to March, woodcocks are
found in them. Jungle fowl and spur
fowl are very numerous, and are excel-
lent eating. Partridges are rare ; quails
common in the lower parts of the hills,
Snipe come in in September, and are
seldom found after April. The soh-
tary snipe {Scolopax fnajor) is occa-
sionally shot. There are blackbirds,
larks, thrushes, woodpeckers, imperial
pigeons, blue wood-pigeons, doves,
and green plovers